IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V ^A^ .Si f \Q itt iiii |22 1.1 l.-""^" 11.25 ^'~ \ V?v >* /; Photographic Sciences Corporation <^ 93 VVIST MAIN tTtNT WIMTII.N.Y. I4SM (71*)«7a-4S<» CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/JCIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Instituta for Historical Microraproductions / Institut Canadian da microraproductiona historiquaa Tachnical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notaa taeiiniquat at bibliograpiiiquaa Tha Instituta has attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy availabia for filming. Faaturaa of this copy which may ba bibliographically uniqua. which may altar any of tha imagas in tha raproduction. or which may significantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. QColourad covars/ Couvartura da coulaur |~n Covars damagad/ D Couvartura andommagia Covars rastorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura rastauria at/ou palliculAa r~n Covar titia missing/ La titra da couvartura manqua □ Colourad maps/ Cartaa gAographiquas it couiaur D Colourad ink (i.a. othar than blua or black)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua blaua ou noira) r^ Colourad plataa and/or illustrations/ a Planchaa at/ou illustrations m* eou!ai:r Bound with othar matariai/ Rali4 avac d'autraa documants rri Tight binding may eauaa shadows or distortion D D along intarior margin/ Laraliura sarrAa pout causar da I'ombra ou da la diatoraion la kHig da la marga Intiriaura Blank laavas addad during rastoration may appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar possibla. thaaa hava baan omittad from filming/ II sa paut qua eartainaa pagaa Wanchaa a|out4aa lors d'una raata< ration apparaiaaam dans la taiita. mala, lorsqua caia Atait possibla. eas pagaa n'ont paa «t4 filmAaa. Additional eemmants:/ Commantairas supplAmantairas: L'Institut a microfilm* la maillaur axamplaira qu'il iui a At* possibla da sa procurer. Las details da eat axamplaira qui sont paut-Atra uniquas du point da vua bibllographiqua, qui pauvant modifier una image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mAthoda normale de filmage sont indiquAs ei-deesous. D D n D E D D D D Colourad pages/ Pages da coulaur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagAes Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurAssi at/ou pelliculAes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dAcoiorAes, tachetAes ou piquAes Pages detached/ Pages dAtachAes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ QualitA inAgale de I'impression Ineludes supplementary materiel/ Comprend du matAriel supplAmentaire Only edition available/ Saula Adition disponible Pages wholly or pertially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Lee peges totalement ou partiallement obscuroies par un fauillet d'errata. une pelure, etc., ont AtA filmAes A nouveau de fa^on A obtanir la mallleure image possible. TMs item is filmed at tha reduction ratio cheeked below/ Ce document est fllmA au taux da rAduetion indiquA oi'dessous. 10X 14X 1BX 22X 2BX 30X v/ 1 12X IfX aBx a«x aix 32X Th« eopy fllm«d t^r« hat bMii r«produe«d thanks to tha ganaroaity of: UnhMnity of SMkatehMvan S ik itoon L'axamplaira film* fut raproduit grica i la ginirosM da: Univtraity of SMkatchawnin Saskatoon Tha Imagaa appaaring hara ara tha baat quality poaalbia conaldaring tha condltlofi and laglbility of tha original eopy and in kaaping with tha filming contract apaciflcatlona. Original copiaa In printad papar covara ara fiimad baglnning with tlia front eovar and anding on tlM last paga with a printad or llluatratad impraa- ston, or tha iMck eovar whan appropriate. All other original eopiea ara fiimad beginning on tlie f Irat paga with a printad or lliuatratad Impree- sion, and anding on the laat paga ynhh a printad or illustrated impreeaton. The last recorded frame on each microfiche ahaii contain tha aymboi «^- (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or tha aymboi Y (meaning "END"), whichever appllaa. Lea images suivantas ont 4t* raproduites avac la plus grand soin, eompta tenu de la condition at da la nattetA da rexemplaira film*, et an conformity avac las conditions du contrat da fllmaga. Lea exempieires originaux dont la couvartura •n papier eat ImprimAa sent fiim4s en commenpant par la premier plat at an tarminant soit par la damlAre paga qui comporta une empreinte d'impreaaion ou dlllustration. soit par le second plat, saion le caa. Toua iae autraa axempiairea originaux aont filmte an commen^ant par la pramlAre paga qui comporta una empreinte d'Impreeaion ou dlllustration at an tarminant par ia damlAre paga qui comporta una telle empreinte. Un dee aymbolae suhrants apparaltra sur la damlAra image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: la symboie ^ signifie "A SUiVRE", le symbols ▼ signifie "FIN". piatoa, charta. etc., may be fiimed at different reduction ratioa. Thoae too large to be entirely included in one expoaura ara fiimad beginning in the upper left hand comer, left to riglit and top to bottom, aa many framae as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: 1.08 cartea, pianchas, tablaeux, etc., peuvent Atre fiimAa i dee taux da rMuction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un aaui cilchA, 11 eat flimA A partir da I'angia aupAriaur gauche, de gauclie A droite, et de haut an baa, an pranant le nombre d'Imagae nAceaaaira. I.ae diagrammae suivanta iliuatrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 a 3 4 6 6 I Notes on Canada and South Africa. Tfffs It 3^:^ BY G. M. THEAL, LL.D. I ■ Reprinted from The Cape IllustPttted cn&gazine. ffiB 161970 DENNIS EDWARDS & Co. Printers and Publisher CAPE TOWN, 4i'30a7 V* !.S>r^ fgA., " % > , - - , ■* - J"* ^ ..... . , >■ ■ j_''-^ ,■.;.. a9 »^*»; ■-■a:-;;,, ■■-.(?» 'A>'; ■ \>- "■■ •'■ ' '', ■■■' ' '«:--, i.y. C, ■j t\ i I J f - jf ^^^^^^1 a ^ . ' ' ■•■ n * 1: 4- , 1 '■■' 1 Os* ■ ^ i [ I 1 1: 1 i t " •■ ■ 4, 1 1 If lA 1- • '.^. ■ ;< C J -' 'S? 1 ! 3 r -1 W' 1 1^ -• V - \ '"'if ,v .i^H f ^■ ■ r t r tl. ♦t kl NOTES ON CANADA & SOUTH AFRICA. ->• 4 • < — CHAPTER I. The Fassaoe from Capetown to Montbbal. "I will try to patch you up for a while " said the doctor, to whom I had just stated that I was resolved at all risks to complete the work upoD which I was then engaged, " but you must take rest and get a change soon as possible." I had been doing rhat is commonly known as " burning the mdle at both ends," and with difficulty was t)rought to realise that to this the low state i>f my health was mainly due. T suppose that 1 am not the first who has been suddenly kwakened to the fact that the vigour of early ife has gone for ever, and that what was ^asy of accomplishment once can be done rith impunity no longer. It was not pleasant ' think of, but it could not be remedied, and lus the only thing to be done was to adapt lyself to the altered condition of things. A few months later my task was finished, Ind I was free to take rest and a change. I lecided to visit Canada. In November 1854 left that country, and though by means of Doks and letter writing I had kept in touch [ith events there during the forty vears that id passed awav, I wished to see with my eyes ~ changes that time had brought about. Still more I wished to meet again those relatives whom death had kindly spared, and to stand by the tombs of those who had Jassed away. Tip the valley of the river St. ohn my paternal great-grandfather, one of the United Empire Loyalists who migrated from New York to New Brunswick at the close of the revolutionary war which gave birth to the United States, was laid at rest soon after he reached Canadian soil. His eldest son, my grandfather, who, though only a youth at the time, also took part with those who strove asrainst the disruption of the empire, lies in Carleton church /\>'d beside his wife, the daughter of anotuov loyalist from New York. Across the river, in the cemetery of St. John, the dust of my kindred is thickly strewn. My father, two of my sisters, an uncle, and an aunt lie there, with many others less near in blood. My maternal grandfather, a sea captain bom in England but domiciled in Canada perished with all his crew in a great storm which cast his ship on Partridge Island, off the entrance of the river St. John, and his body was never found. His widow, the daughter of a loyalist from Connecticut, survived him sixty years, and her dust now lies in the old cemetery at Parrsboro, Nova Scotia, beside that of one of my sisters. At Noel, across the Basin of Minas'from Parrsboro, lies the dust of another sister and of a niece of mine. In the churchyard of St. Martin's in the Woods, at Shediac, on the Straits of Northumberland, lie many of my near kindred, and there too were laid at rest classmates whom I cannot forget. Over the counties of York, St. John, Westmorland, Cumberland, and Hants, in 2 NOTES ON CANADA. AND SOUTH APEIOA. New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, my relatives and connections by marriage are scattered, and I was assured that long absence would be no bar to a friendly reception by them all. My readers I hope will pardon me for these pu««1y persoDal particulars : my object in giving them IS to show that it is not merely from observa- tions during a short visit, but from an intimate acquaintance with the land of my youth, that I am, or ought to be, qualified to write on Oanadian subjects. Of the passage from Capetown to England I need say but little, as it differed in hardly any respect from the hundreds of others which have been written of. A magnificent steamer, officers who do everything that is possible to make the life of the passengers pleasant while on board, fair weather, deep blue and almost unrippled seas, two or three intensely hot days under a vertical sun, shoals of porpoises, swarms of flying fish, mornings of the deepest feeling of luxurious rest, delightful evenings underawnings spread over decks lit with electric lamps, these are the almost invariable accom- Samnients of a passage between England and outh Africa, and they were just a little intensified on this occasion. If any one could otherwise have complained of monotony, the opportunity of doing so was removed by our running close past Cape Verde and calling at Santa Cruz and Lisbon. Separated from Cape Verde by only a narrow channel is the little island of Goree, where the French have a strong military and naval station. A great extent of territory on the continent behind belongs to them. We Kssed close to the shore, which presents a Id. though broken appearance, with some scenes of considerable beauty. None of the ridges or domes iire very high. There are three lighthouses within a few miles of each other, and several fine buildings and many pretty trees are seen on the heights. We dropped anchor off Teneriffe at half- past six on a Sunday morning, and found five other steamers — ^including two Spanish men- of-war— in the roadsteiul of Santa Cruz. From our deck the brown volcanic hills looked almost bare. Above the town they are terraced in some places, and neat buildings are scattered over them as far as can be seen. The famous peak was visible on the left, but appeared to be only a knoll, as the greater part of it was obscured by the intervening ground. Presently some boats with particularly intelligent and re- spectable looking oarsmen came alongside, and most of our passengers went ashore to look at the town. The mole upon which we landed is a substantial struc- ture, and there is no difficulty in getting from the boat to the shore. A guide who spoke English was engaged by each group of the steamer's passengers, for some wished to go in one direction, some in another. I went first to the market, which I had been told was remarkably good, and I was not disappointed with it. The display of vegetables and poultry was certainly worthy of admiration. Of fruit the oranges and pears were good, and the grapes were moderately so, but tiie peaches and apples were poor. The market was clean, and everything in connection with it seemed to be in excellent order. Santa Cruz contains some large and well- built houses. They are roofed with red tiles. The streets are narrow, and are paved with stone, with good sidewalks. I visited two fine churches. In the larger one the colours taken from Nelson, when he failed in his attack upon Teneriffe in July 1797 and lost his right arm. are kept in a glass case suspended out of reach againstj the wall. Services were being h band w were w« door w From garden, of both walking groups childret complete majorit; and Q-t quadroc single questioi a public but up(i door Ic «urio8it; knew n but ma and the than on< evidentl One is i town afi it, so I f which £ pleasing were obt Havii twelve 1 we wer€ in a few its maje At di 'Teneriffi ^and a pi itscendei built on northeri tage, an board w the prill ;Seven wi later I ^ was not hours Ti do noth churchc a couple .ofthest and the look at which, .an arra the roll Six n >7 only a narrow I'oree, where the &ry and naval erritory on the ) them. We lich presents a ice, with some None of the h. There are ' miles of each ngs and many y^hts. aeriffe at half- and found five Spanish men- Santa Oruz. 3rown volcanic ; bare. Above erraced in some buildings are n as far as can nous peak was , but appeared as the greater icnred by the > boats with gent and re- oarsmen came nost of our lore to look at tie upon which istantial atruc- no difficulty in it to the shore. ) English was group of the rs, for some >ne direction, [ went first to I had been good, and nted with it. ^tables and admiration* were good, y so, but the The market inection with • '^ and well- ^ith red tiles, paved with visited two the colours ailed in his 797 and lost se suspended ervices were NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 8 being held, and in the larger church a military band was taking part in the music, but people were walking in and out all the time. At the door were some cripples begging for alms. From the churches I went to a neat public garden, where a considerable number of people of both sexes were sitting on the bencnes or walking about chatting. Among them were groups of pretty, lively, tastefully-dressed children. Many of the ladies were blondes in complexion, with light flaxen hair, but the majority of both sexes, being of mixed Spanish and Q-uanche blood, were nearly as dark as quadroons in South Africa. I did not see a single negro in Santa Cruz. In reply to a question the guide informed me that tnere was a public library maintained by the municipality, but upon going to the building we found the door Icjked, so I was unable to gratify my curiosity concerning its contents. The guide knew nothing about it beyond its existence, but maintained the dignity of his cbarauter and the pride of his calling by repeating more than once " strangers not go' there.'' It was evidently out of his list of "show places." One is not justified in writing much about a town after a stay of only four or five hours in it, BO I shall merely add that the impression which Santa Oruz left upon me was of a pleasing nature. Neatness and good order were observable wherever I went. Having taken coal on board, at half-past twelve the steamer's anchor was raised, and we were again speeding our way northward, in a few hours losing sight of the island and its majestic peak. At dawn of the third day after leaving 'TenerifFe we were at the mouth of the Tagus, »nd a pilot came on board. The scene as we iwcended the river was very beautlf'il. Lisbon, built on the slope of a range of hills along the northern bank, is seen to the greatest advan- tage, and as we passed up some gentlemen on board who had long resided there pointed out the principal places of interest. At half past :Seven we dropped anchor, and a few minutes later I was on my way to the shore. There •was not time, however, to see much, for in five hours we were steaming away again, so I could do nothing more than peer into a few superb .churches, walk through a large market, inspect a couple of bookstores, pace up and down some of the streets, admiring the handsome buildings and the tesselated sidewalks, and take a hasty look at the deceptive pavement of a square which, though perfectly flat and smooth, by .an arrangement of colour is made to resemble the rolling waves of the sea. Six months later, when returning to South Africa, I visited this city again, and had a better opportunity of sight-seeing, as my health was greatly improved and I could spend several hours longer on shore. On this occasion I looked into the church of St. Boque, and inspected in it the beautiful chapel of St. John. I then went into the Star convent — no longer used as such. — and afterwards examined the large English church and spent half an hour in the cemetery adjoining it, which is kept in excellent order. Later in the day I visited the celebrated reservoir of wat«r, and went up to its roof, from which a good view is to be had. The reservoir and watercourse were originally constructed by the Moors, when they occupied Portugal, but the stonework fell into decay, and nearly the whole was rebuilt in the sixteenth century. From the reservoir I went to a small public garden called the Jardim de S. Pedro d' Alcantara, where I was informed there was a bust of Bartholomeo Dias, the discoverer of the Cape of Good Hope, but by this time darkness was setting in, and though I saw a good many busts I missed the one I was in search of. There was another place I should dearly have liked to visit — ^the Torre do Tombo, where the archives of the kingdom are kept, — but I would have needed weeks, not hours, in that building, and it was then already time to go on board the steamer. At the beautiful capital of Portugal it is impossible for a stranger not to muse upon the past glory of the little kingdom, and to inquire into the causes of its decay. The reason is not far to seek. In the enterprising time of Prince Henry the Navigator the blood of the people was pure, for the Caucasian there had never crossed his stock with the Moorish invaders, as had been done in other parts of the peninsula. Then came the discovery of the ocean route to India, and the equipment of great trading fleets by the Portuguese kings, who kept the lucrative traffic of the East as a monopoly in their own hands. The country was drained of its workmen, and to cultivate the laud in the southern provinces slaves were introduced. The Moors had been expelled, but now Africans of a lower type were brought from the coast of Guinea and placed as permanent residents on the large estates in the south. In course of time a mixture of races took place, and degeneration went on until energy and enterprise completely disappeared. The upper classes throughout Portugal and the peasantry of the northern provinces at the present day are as intelligent as any people in Europe, but they are weighed down and lost in the mass of the inhabitants of mixed blood. Here is surely a lesson, and 4 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. a sufficiently striking one, for those who speak and write of raiscegenution as desirable in countries occupied jointly by Europeans and Africans., At one o'clock on the 6th of October we reached Southampton. The distance from Capetown is in round numbers six thousand nautical miles, and our steamer had taken, exclusive of stoppages, twenty-two days and sixteen hours to make the passage. The grey- hounds of either the Union or Castle fleets cover the distance in fifteen or sixteen days, Western railway. The journey across England j is made in from four and a half to six hours. ' according to the train. At Liverpool I spent some time, but un- fortunately I was too indisposed to look; around mt much. The hotel at which I put] up, howevor, was only a pistol shot from the ] public library, the museum, and the arti gallery, and I was able to visit those institu- tions and spend the greater part of a day in, each. They are certainly creditable even to^ the second commercial city in the empire, Pbaca Dom Pedbo, Lisbon. but they are usually crowded with passengers, and as I was in no hurry and hoped that my health would be improved by the sea air, I had purposely chosen one of the slower but to me more comfortable ships of the first named line. From Southampton I went on to London by train, and after a ver^ short stay in the great city proceeded to Liverpool by the North- though there are no pictures of the very first order in the art gallery. Pausing in front of these buildings I was struck by the large number of ragged, unkempt, dirty, and puny people of both sexes that were passing by. I never saw so many of the kind before. Gracious heaven, if these people swarm in one of the best parts of the city, what must the slums be like! The worst streets in Capetown have no denizens such as they. At Liverpool I took passage for Montreal in the Vancouver, one of the best steamers of the Dominion fleet. The weekly mails between Great Britain and Canada are carried alter- nately by this line and the Allan, just as those between Great Britain and South Africa are carried by the Union and Castle companies. Their eastern point of departure is Liverpool, and their western Montreal in the summer mmmtmrr y across England lalf to six hours, le time, but un- sposed to look at which I put ol shot from the a, and the arti lit those institu- onths and Halifax in the winter, when the Lvigation of the St. Lawrence is closed. The lips of ^hese fleets are hardly as large as elatest bailt of the Union or Castle Company, it they are fine vessels, of exceptional rength, and heavily engined. The different uditions of the passenger trade between ngland and South Africa and between Qgland and Canada have occr^sioned a part of a day in fference in the finishing of the ships. The editable even the in ;vrv to empire, iiMit ||inu^[|ll»i(biimi » very of the Pausing in was struck by unkempt, dirty, xes that were many of the if these people rts of the city, |re! The worst denizens such for Montreal est steamers of mails between carried alter- , just as those th Africa are lie companies, is Liverpool, the summer NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. [)uth African liners, passing over a tropical a and seldom encounteriug stormy weather, eep their decks neater, and spread awnings a protection from the sun. Their saloons •e larger, for the majority of their passengers avel either first or second class. The earners of the Dominion and Allan lines have :commodation for six hundred to a thousand :eerage passengers, as the emigrants to merica are chiefly of the labouring class, who ay a very small fare, and are satisfied with >ugh quarters and food. The intermediate ccommodation in these ships even is very little etter than that of the third class in the fleets f the Union and Castle companies. Their rincipal saloons are smaller than those of the teamers with which I am comparing them, nd are not equal in style and finish, though le tables are about the same. The Labrador, le latest Duilt ship of the Dominion fleet, has much smaller saloon than the Vancouver, — pable of seating only fifty-four persons, — as le Company has been guided in her con- truction by the experience of a quarter of a entury,and knows that greater accommodation or passengers of this class will never be leeded in the winter, while in summer second bles can be set if required. These ships have irly good promenade decks, but there is very ttle brass work about and awnings are Idom spread, for the North Atlantic is 'ough and stormy as a rule, and the passen- :ers remain in the saloons and the smoking 'ooms, which in winter are kept warm and sy by means of heated pipes. Sixteen hours steaming took us to Lough 'oyle, where we anchored off the village of 'oville in order to take in the mails and the rish contingent of passengers coming down om Londonderry to meet us. The steamer timed to remain here ten hours. The bills their autumn dress, dotted over with stacks f oats and barley, and divided into plots of arious sizes and shapes, looked very pretty rom the deck. We were so close that with ,n ordinary field glass we could see parties of en digging potatoes in the fields. Moville had an evil rep'atation with the lassengers on board, some of whom had visited it once, and declared they would never do so again. They described its people as perfect land sharks and its jarvies as the greatest pests in all the world. The Madeira beggai's, they said, were pleasant to deal with compared with the Moville jaunting car drivers, and they strongly advised those of us who were strangers to the place to be satisfied with a look at it from our secure position. But I had never been on Irish soil, and now that an opportunity offered of seeing an Irish village, with a whole morning to spare, I could not resist the temptation to go ashore. Several others were of the same mind, and as a boat with three very civil and respectable looking men in her was waiting alongside, we prepared to go down the gangway. " I will just take a stroll about the place," said I, " and see what it is like." " I'll bet you a sovereign to a sixpence that you don't stroll a hundred yards from the landing place," replied one of the experienced in Moville ways. I did not close with the oiler, but I felt sure that if I chose to do so I should win. Alas for my confidence in myself, I should certainly have lost. At the landing place a number of car drivers were waiting to receive us. We had scarcely put our feet on shore when they began to S ester us in every variety of tone, and soon the in became almost deafening. The streets of the village were only a few paces distant, but to get over those few paces was soon seen to be impossible. It had rained heavily the night before, the roads wsre sloughs of mud, and if left to ourselves not one of the party but would have been glad of the convenience of a vehicle. But to be forced to take one was another matter. I and some others turned towards the boat, with the intention of at once returning on board, but the boatmen had disappeared. I was standing on a narrow ridg^i of compara- tively dry ground, which appeared to lead up to the village, and on each side was a perfect quagmire. The position strategically was a bad one. The jarvies realised it at once, and before I could move away one jaunting car was across the ridge in front and another behind. "You might get rid of a limpet," said a driver at a little distance, " but you won't get rid of them till they see you on the outside of a car." Advance and retreat were alike cut off. I looked round and saw that all who had come ashore except myself had been obliged to submit, and were being driven off through the mud, so I got on the car in front, and asked to be taken to the end of the street, perhaps fifty steps away. On the car I had at least relief from the noisy pestering I had undergone, and there- }: 6 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. fore did not remonstrate when I was driven through the village, which, indeed, presented nothing worthy of inspection. I saw a stream of cars with my fellow victims on them on in front, so I merely asked the driver where he was taking me. "Where would I go," said he, " but to the old castle, sure everybody likes to see that : it's the finest sight in Ireland." His tongue never ceased. He told wonderful stories about the eccentricities of the mare, thf badness of the roads in every other direction than that in which he was taking me, the hard times, and I know not what else. " The finest sight in Ireland," when at last I got to it, turned out to be some remnants of the wallij of tk plain building never of any great size. A woman was there collecting a fee for inspecting the ruins and offering for sale a [lamphlet pur- i-r-^''"}^- •■■•■■■ porting to contain a history of the castle, from which I learned that it was built in 1805 by Kichard de Burgo, earl of Ulster, iu order to protect his estates from the Irish chiefs in (he neighbourhood. There is a g(od view from some high ground at no great distance from the ruin, but nothing to go into ecstasy over, and if it were even the grandest sight in the world it would be utterly spoiled by the people who pester visitors to buy shell necklaces and blackthorn sticks, though it is true these are to the car drivers only as house- flies to hornets. On the way back to Moville the driver pointed out a circular dyke of earth, where a Danish round tower had stood in times long gone, but I did not stop to inspect it. Wht n we reached the village and I had paid the exorbitant fare which was asked, I purchased a few trifles in a shop at about double London prices, and then tried again to look at the place, but the pestering recommeii(;ed and I gave it up. With some others I made the best of my way to the landing place, whore we waited until the boatmen ai'pured, keeping our tormentors at bay as best we could, and very glad were we when we gut again on board the Vaneovver. In justice to the boatmen I must add that their charges were most reason- able and their conduct all that could l>e desired. But as for Moville, it umy be my fate to be in Lough Foyle again, — I was there when re- turning to England in the Labrador, — but no more sliall I be seen among the oar drivers 00 that spot of Irish soil, no, not if I know it. At two in the afternoon we steamed out of Lough Foyle, passed inside of Innistrahull Island, on which is a lighthouse, nineteen miles from Moville, and had a view of the coast of Scotland across the channel. Beyond Maliu Head, the northern point ot Ireland, the land rises in ranges of hills that almost aspire to the dignity of mountains, but darA- ness set in shortly, aud we saw nothing more except the light on Tory Island later iu the evening. The next day was stormy, and a heavy sea was running, so that very few of the passengers left their rooms. But on tlie folhtwing morning there was a large party about, and I found that we had people on l)oard from half the countries of Europe, besides a thick sprinkling of Canadians returning to their homes. From some of these I obtained much information concerning the far west, the present condition of the country beyond Winnipeg, and the prospects of settlers on the Pacific slope. A couple of farmers from Manitoba informed me that the}' were at present not doing very well, as wh at — the great staple of the West— had lK?eu produced in excessive quantities, and was therefore worth only thirty-eight to forty cents a Itushel. At that rate — equal to 48. 9d. to 5s. a muid— it does not pay to grow it, fifty cents a bushel, or 6s. 3d. a muid, being the lowest profitable price. In South Africa it cannot be raised for even double the last named figures. Ou the 24th of October we passed Belle Isle^ and near its western extremity, l)etween the island an*] the coast of Labrador, lay, dazzling while in the rays of the setting sun, an iceberg that had drifted down from the north too late NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. the season to melt away. The part visible [bove water was about five or six times the ze of the Vancouver. The northern coast of ewfoundland was in sight on one side and the t of Labrador on the other, both looking tremely barren and desolate. That evening e had a display of the anrora borealis, though lot on a very grand scale. The following day we passed Anticosti, and m the morning of the 26th were in the mouth f the great river of Canada, the noble water ighway of the St. Lawrence, up which Jacques 'artier sailed first of white men in 1535. Its farther bank was not visible from the steamer, t ten o'clock we were abreast of Bimouski, nd slackened speed while a tender came along- ide to receive the passengers and mails for he Maritime Provinces. These are conveyed lastward by special train of the intercolonial ilway. which runs dowu the righ^- bank of he St. Lawrence from Levis, opposite Quebec, ,nd at Bimouski turns and continues its course :o Halifax in Nova Scotia. Keeping up the river at full steam, the anks gradually liecame closer to ei.ch other, ,nd the villages and farmhouses on our left jclustered more and more thickly together. Steamers were going up and down, and sailing ve' shIs and fishing smacks were flitting about in every direction. All day we kept on our course, the scenery changing but little, aud at ten in the evening the Vancouver was moored to a pier at Quebec This fatuous French citv, the cradle of civilisation in Canada, is built ou a bold rocky promontory that projects into the St. Lawrence until its extreme point is less than a mile distant from Levis on the opposite bank. Port Elizabeth is the only town in South Africa that in any way resembles Quebec in contour of site. Each ha4 a lower terrace devoted chiefly to commerce, and each has a high background on which the best buildings are erected. But Quelwc has six times the population of Port Elizabeth, and its buildings are of course larger, while it is an absolutelv safe river harbour, whereas Port Elizabeth has only an ex{X)8ed ocean roadstead. The citadel of Quebec stands three hundred and thirty feet al)ove the river, and in it are kept large quantities of military stores aud munitions of war. It is occupied also as a barrack by Canadian forces, there being no imperial troops in the Dominion except at Halifax. The site of the old castle of St. Louis, partly erected by Cham plain in the earlv ^ears of the seventeenth century and destroyed in 1834, is now occupied by a palatial hotel called the Chateau Fronteuac, from the windows of which I was informed magnificent views are to be had of the river, the isle of Orleans, the opposite shore, and the valley of the St. Charles. Quebec is the only walled city in Canada ; it is the seat of the local government of the province of the same name, and prominent among its institutions is the University of Laval. I cannot describe its streets, its numerous churches and other buildings, nor indeed anything more about it than I have done, because I saw the city only at night, and was obliged to content myself with purchasing at Montreal some photographs and books concerning it, from which I have no right to quote. The great majority of its people are in language and manner of living as French now as their ancestors were when in 1759 the victory gained by Wolfe brought the city withm the British dominions. Abohwat, Lisbon. Many of our passengers went ashore here, ard cargo was Iwing rapidlv discharfred by means of electric lamps and steam winches. Gangs of men were as busy as if it had been day, and in five hours an immense quantity of goods was put ashore. At three in the morning we were under steam again, and from daylight until two in the afternoon, when we reached Montreal, except while we were passin,; through Lake St. reter, I feasted my eves upon the ever varying but always beautiful scenery. On both hanks the farmhouses and villages form a continuous chain, almost every knoll has ft 8 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH APEIOA. cburch upon it, and the river itaelf, studded with numerous islands, is a picture of entrancing interest. Montreal is distant from Liverpool two thousand eight hundred nautical miles by the shortest sea route, and the Vancouver had made the run — exclusive of the stoppages at Moville and Quebec — in eight days and eleven hours. The fares respectively ' of the Union and Castle and of the Dominion and Allan lines are : Between Capetown and London, either way. first £37 16s. to £4/0 198., second je24 Ss. to £26 5s.. third jglO lOs. to £16 16s., according to steamer. Between Liverpool and Montreal or Halifax, either way. first ^10 to £U in winter and jCIO 10s. to jBIS 18s. in summer, according to size and position of stateroom ; intermediate — very little better than the third in the Union and Castle steamers — .£5 going westward, £6 5r. going eastward ; steerage jB2 goin g west wa rd , iS3 28.6(1 . going eastward. CHAPTER II. Abobioines, Eubopbam CuIiONists, Physical Fbatubbs, Abba, and Climate or Canada and South Afbica. Before giving an account of my journey onward from Montreal, I think it will be well briefly to compare the aborigines of Canada and South Africa, and also to say something of the physical features and extent of each country, the climate, and adaptability of the land for agricultural and pastoral purposes, as well as to sketch briefly their history before they became portions of the British dominions. I do not pretend to be as intimately acquainted with the aborigines of Canada as I am with those of South Africa, among whom the best years of my life have been spent. I never personally came in contact with any other Indians than some Micniacs and Milicetes of the Algonquin family, who roamed about Nova Scotia and New Brunswick when I was a youth, and a few words of whose language I then picked up. I have seen their wigwams many times at the forest's edge along the Straits of Northumberland, and I have watched their canoes in the summer evenings gliding over the water of the harbours there, as they ■ought for lobsters by torchlight, but of course that does not give me suflicient knowledge to write about them. It is from books that I have gathered my information, and I have read many, with this advantage that as I know the South African natives well, when I found any of their peculiarities ascribed to the Indians ll could at once recognise them, and when it wai| otherwise I was led to pursue the inquiry aQd| try to ascertain the cause. How. when, and where the different varieties I of human beings had their origin will probablyl never be known : it is sufficient to say that] both in Canada and South Africa, when those] countries wers discovered, men differing greatljrl from Europeans were found. And what is I much more strange, in each of these countries I races differing greatly from each other existed. In South Africa the puny Bushmen, the better formed Hottentots, and the stalwart Bantu 1 were living ; and in Canada the best authorities are of opinion that the relationship is very i remote between the Eskimo of the polar] regions, the nomad Algonquins, and the] stationary agricultural tribes, of which the Hurons may be taken as representatives. The Hurons Hud Algonquins were of a reddish copper colour, they had long coarse black hair, were nearly beardless, had promin- ent ffatures, and were in general well formed and large in body. The Eskimo were lighter in complexion, apd though not so tall were usually stouter. The South African Bushmen were dwarfs of a dirty yellow colour, with only little peppercorns of wool on their heads, with flat noses, fox -like faces, and crooked ill-formed bodies. The Hottentots were of a similar colour, but had somewhat better features, and were larger and straighter-backed. The Bantu were equal to the beat specimens of Indians in form and stature, they varied in colour from deep brown to black, their heads were thickly covered with woolly hair, and many of them had fairly prominent noses and bearded faces. Notwithstanding these differences, it would have required a practised eye to distinguish at a short distance a group' of any of these people from a group of any other. Covered with clay, soot, or dirt until the natural colour of their skins was concealed ; the men, unless in cold weather, almost in a state of nudity, marching in front with nothing but weapons of war ; the women following, carrying infants on their liacks and bearing all the burdens of the household ; the children, sedate beyond their years, trudging in a file behind : this was a scene that could be witnessed alike in Canada and in South Africa. In debate also on serious matters there was a strong resemblance between the Indians, the Bantu, and the Hottentots. Many of the men were orators of a high order, their arguments were clear, their languara was full of imagery, and they often displayed oon- N^rES ON CANADA AND SOUTH APEICA. 9 i to the Indians l| , and when it wail ) the inquiry aadl lerable power oi /^Uect. The utmost corum was preserv )u in their debates. It IS onl^ when the subject was connected with >mething supernatural that they lost all ability > reason, and in wild terror became even less lan children in mind. For a belief in the existence of wizards id witches, and in their power and disposition work evil, was common to all the aborigines ' both countries, who attributed to their lalign influence diseases, accidents, and liiasters of every kind. An individual accused 1^ a witchfinder of practising sorcery met Vith the same fate in one place as in the other. pommon to all was a dreakd of hobgoblins and Til spirits in the air, on the land, and under le water, and who specially haunted certain calities. All alike believed that men could made to assume the form of animals, and '^had faith in spells and charms. In ancestral jirit worship the Bantu had a defined jligion, which none of the others possessed, )r their notions with regard to a oeity were Extremely vague and childish. Thb Towbb or Bblbm Lisboit. The Canadian Indian, no matter to which liection he belonged, was a low ty|)e of man. jThe bison in countless herds roamed over the Iwestern plains, the moose and the cK,ribou were ■spread over the eastern region; but he had ■never attempted to tame them : his only ■domestic animal was the dog. His country labounded in metals, yet he knew nothing of ■their use : flints, shells, bones, wood, and clay Iwere the only materials of which he formed I his implements. In these respects he resembled I the South African Bushman, who was without I other domestic animal than the dog, and who ■did not smelt metals. In ferocity of disposition and disregard of the value of human life the Indian and the Bushman were alike. Each delighted in tor- turing his enemies, and gloated over the sufferings of cither men or animals. Bat the Indian was capable of enduring without a murmur the same torment that he inflicted upon his foes, for like the South African Bantu his whole education tended to make him c, stoic and to give him the ability to conceal his emotions. The Indian painted his body, went almost naked in summer, and clothed himself with furs in winter. His habitations were filthy, and for cleanliness of person he cared nothing. Here he was like all the aboriginal race^ of South Africa. With savages and barbarians everywhere the sense of smell is exceedingly dull, and they can live without discomfort or iU consequence in an atmosphere so vitiated that to Europeans it would be deadly. The Algonquins and the Eskimo were nomads and lived by hunting and fishing, the Algonquins also gathered nuts, berries, and other wild vegetable productions. The Bush- men lived in precisely the same way. The wigwam of the Algonquin, however, was equal to a Hottentot hut, the one being formed of slender poles and sheets of birch bark, the other of still lighter poles and reed mats. The Bushmen were ccmteut with a cave or a hole in the ground screened by a mat. The Hottentots had cows and sheep, aud lived on milk, meat, and wild plants. They did not cultivate the soil. The Hurons were tillers of the ground, and derived the greater portion of their food from gardens of niaize. They built fairly commodious dwellings in palisaded enclosures, and stored their corn in underground granaries. This might be written of the Bantu, substi- tuting millet for maize, and omitting palisaded enclosures. The dwellings were indeed differently constructed, but the amount of skill needed to put them together was about the same. With both Hurons aud Bantu all the heavy labour fell to the women. Their gardens were not laid out in regular form, there were no straight lines or perfect circles to be seen, for the eve of the uncivilised man is careless about such matters. In mechanical skill the Hurons and Algon- quins were in advance of all the aborigines of south Africa. Their tobacco pipes, knob- kerries or fighting sticks, bows, arrows, snow shoes, and baskets were equal, and their bark canoes were superior ij th? very neatest articlesof any kind made by Bantu, Hottentots, ■■:£ 10 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. or Bushmen. These canoes were often highly ornamented with pieces of porcupine quill dyed in brilliant colours and worked in neat patterns along the gunwales and especially about the raised prows, they were so strong that they could carry a whole family down rushing rapids, and so light that they could be borne by a single man over the rough ground between two sheets of water. Only the Indians were ignorant of the use of iron and copper, knowledge possessed by both the Hottentots and Bantu of South Africa. Setting one kind of knowledge against another, the various classes of people may be ranged in the following order : 1. The Bushmen, lowest of all, nomadic hunters, without knowledge uf agriculture or metals, with no domestic animal except the dog, and cruel and vindictive to the last degree. 2. The Eskimo, a little higher, because less savage in disposition and somewhat more advanced in mechanical skill, but otherwise similar. 3. The Algonquins, another step in advance, hunters and fishers, fierce and cruel, with more mechanical skill than either of the preceding classes, but unacquainted with metals, and neither practising agriculture nor possessing domestic cattle. 4. The Hottentots, a little higher still, nomad herdsmen, mild in disposition, acquainted with copper and iron, ignorant of agriculture, and without mechanical skill. 5. The Hurons, somewhat more advanced, settled agriculturists, fishermen, and hunters, vindictive and cruel, without domestic cattle or knowledge of metals, but possessing considerable mechanical bkill. 6. The Bantu, much the highest of all, cruel to some extent but not immoderately vindictive, agriculturists, with domestic animals, and using metals, but not having quite as much mechanical skill as the Hurons. Of all these people, but one class— the Eskimo — has not come permanently in contact with European civilisation. Of the others, the Bantu alone have not diminished in number before the face of the white man. There never were many Indians, or Hottentots, or Bushmen, because an immense extent of land was needed for the support of a few people living as they did; but small as their number was three centuries ago, it is very much smaller dow. Some writers are of opmion that intoxicants and gunpowder have caused the decrease ; but that theory is certainly incorrect. A good many Bushmen indeed were shot down in South Africa, and a good many Indians in Canada, but very few Hottentots perished in that way, and under ordinary circumstances the loss from this cause in all the classes would quickly have been made good by natural increase. The effect of the immoderate uj? of intoxicating liquor by the savages was also trifling compared with other agencies of destruction. The true causes of the dying out of the savage races were : 1. Diseases transmitted by white men, chief among which were small-pox and consumption. The ancestors of the savages had never known these diseases, consequently when they first appeared they caused awful havoc. 2. Low fertility induced by sudden changes in manner of living. The diet of the savages was necessarily altered when Europeans appeared among them, and partial sterility was the result. The game upon which the Bushmen and the Indians mainly depended was shot down, and they were obliged to find other food, the Hottentots from being milk drinkers became vegetable eaters, and families dwindled away and died out. This was the chief cause, I believe, of the great diminution in number of the aborigines of Canada and of the two lower races in South Africa. The Bantu, on the contrary, have thriven in the presence of Europeans, and increased more rapidly than any other people on the face of the earth. Why is this ? Because they used both vegetable and animal food and even intoxicating liquor before they came in contact with us, l]^use they were a settled people, because we changed neither their diet nor their manner of living, because they were sufiiciently robust to stand against our diseases, and because, instead of adding to, we removed the causes — internecine war and slaughter on charges of sorcery — which previously kept their number down. The European population of Canada is at present four million eight hundred thousand. There are a hundred thousaud Indians and a very lew negroen, but their number is so small that their presence does not affect the welfare of the country to any appreciable extent, and there is not the slightest danger politically or socially to be apprehended from them. The Frenc(i and the English, it is true, have not blended their blood, but they stand side by side in a way that people never can who differ in colour, aud between whtmi there is the great gulf that separates civilisation from barbarism. Against nearly five millions of progressive NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 11 jtelligent Europeans that Canada can boast |f, South Africa has barely seven hundred lousaud, and these have to deal with fully >ur million individuals of the black races, ^ho, with few exceptions, seem incapable of ising to any high standard within a raeasur> Lble period of time. I The physical features of Canada differ widely irom those of South Africa. The country is a ist plain, the greater part of it being elevated Bss than a thousand feet above the level of Ihe sea, and, though there are mountain ranges p it, it has only one lofty ridge — the Bocky [ountains — in its whole extent. It is a land ^f mighty rivers, and of lakes which are vast reshwater seas. A.frica, soutli of the Zambesi, Is a huge flat-topped mountain, elevated from pur to six thousand feet above the ocean, and rith terraced sides, east, west, and south. Its btrearas — even the largest — are mere torrents, pushing down in deep gorges fter heavy rains, and showing kilmost dry channels at other ' Iteasons. It is well for civilised man bhat these vast portions of the garth's surface are so unlike each sther. If Canada was a lofty land, the cold would be so intense chat neither animal nor vegeta- t)le life in the higher forms could exist, it would be a waste of frozen earth and snow-clad hills, yith glaciers filling every valley. --^ South Africa rose only a few feet above the level of the ocean, the malaria of its swamps would for ever prevent its being the Ihome of men of the Caucasian type, it would [be inhabited solely by savages. The great ■Designer knew exactly what was proper for leach. The coasts of Canada contain numerous ■natural harbours that rank among the very jbest in the world, landlocked, capacious, and erfectly safe. In this respect South Africa is lat a great disadvantage. She has but two: jSaldanha Bay on the western coast, which is Inearly useless ou account of the barren country ■around, and Delagoa Bay on the eastern Icoast, which is fever stricken and in the hands jof a power that has no territory of any couse* jljuenee behind it. The commerce of Canada lii spared the charges for mterest on such vast sums of money as have necessarily been expended in improving Table Bay, the mouth I of the Buffalo, and Port Natal. The area of Canada — nearly three and a half ■ million square miles including its lake surface, o" three million three hundred and sixteen thousand square miles of land — is a little more than three times as great as that of Africa south of the Zambesi. It is not possible to say exactly what proportion is capable of occupation by white men. The common opinion in the country itself is that nearly half of the whole extent is fit for either agriculture or cattle rearing, and it is certain that extensive tracts in the north-west, which only a few years ago were believed to be wastes of almost eternal frost, are now found to be extremely rich in pastoral resources, with winters so mild that cattle can live without being housed. Still, if the land bordering on the Arctic sea and Hudson's Bay with all other that is known to be f rostbound be excluded, and a reas >nable allowance be made for that which is still doubtful, perhaps one-third oi: the whole would be a fair estimate of the portion that can be An Ihoian Canoe. turned to account. South Africa, considered as a home for Europeans, is small in comparison. If all that is fever stricken, all that is arid, and all that is occupied by blacks be excluded, two hundred and fifty tliousand square miles will be the largest estimate that is possible. lu productiveness there is no ground in S >uth Af nca equal to the rich marshlands of the maritime provinces of Canada, except perhaps those portions of the vallev of the Elephant river that are occasionally over- flowed by the stream, when a thin layer of fine karoo clay is left behind. These marshlands sell readily at jB30 an acre, for the^ are con- sidered a safe investment at that price. The^ need no manuring. When the surface soil begins to show signs of exhaustion, the dikes are opened, (he water at high tide covers it, and its marvellous fertility is at once restored. The depth of soil is very great. Tear after year the marshlands, without any labour being y 11 12 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. bestowed upon them, will produce per acre from two to three tons of hay, worth from 29s. to 42s. a ton. There is no expenditure, except for cutting the hay and removing it from the ground. But with this exception, the South African soil in places where the rainfall is ample or it can be irrigated and is of good depth, compares favourably with that of Canada. In the western provinces of the Dominion, where wheat is produced in immense quantities, the crops are occasionally spoiled by untimely ffost, and in South Africa they are occasionally destroyed by insects ; one perhaps balances the other. Canada has this advantage however : in the wheat lands a plough can be driven for miles in any direction without encountering a hillock, whereas in South Africa the surface of lands fit for agriculture is generally uneven. This advantage will be still greater when electricity supersedes animal power in working the plough, an event that many land owners are now pre- Saring for. Against a many furrowed plough rawn by electricity on level soil softened and refreshed by frost, the South African farmer will shortly have to compete with only the means he has at present. But where small plots of ground are cultivated, as, for instance, for market gardening or fruit growing, the balance of advantages will be against the Canadian on the uplands. In climate I am of opinion that South Africa has greatly the advantage, though Canadians living in the long settled provinces hold the contrary view. The yearly range of the thermometer is enormously greater in Canada, but the daily range is greater in some parts of South Africa. In July and August there are days in the provinces between Manitoba and Nova Scotia when the heat is as oppressive as it ever is in any part of Africa south of the Zambesi, if it is not even more so, because it continues through the night, whereas in South Africa as soon as the sun g^s down the air usually becomes cool. On the other hand the extremely hot weather does not last so long. In winter the cold in Mani- toba is from eighty to ninety degrees greater t\an it is in South Africa, and in the maritime provinces it is forty to fifty degrees greater. The ground is frozen as bard as rock, the rivers are covered with solid ice, and snow lies deep over all. When it blows, even at mid* day, the wind is piercing, and a finger or an ear that is exposed is quickly frostbitten. In South Africa in July and August it often freezes slightlv at night, snow lies for days together on the tops of elevated mountains, and a fire in the evening, though not absolutely necessary, is regarded by most people as adding to comfort. But as soon as the sun is above the horizon the temperature rises, and at noon- day — unless rain is falling — it is usually pleasantly warm. The daily range of the thermbjaeter, that is between 4 a.m. and 4 p.m., is occasionally in some parts of South Africa sixty to seventy degrees, a difference unknown in Canada. Motion and humidity of the air, however, must also be taken into account. Canadians regard the cold, dry, calm days of winter as among the pleasantest in all the year, and South Afri( us do not often complain of the heat of the uplands, unaccom- panied as it is by moisture and gale. In both countries the skies overhead are clear, though in South Africa they are of a deeper blue and more frequently free of clouds along the horizon. As regards the effect of the climate upon the health of the people, there cannot be much difference, if any. Diseases of the lungs are more prevalent in Canada, and fevers and heart diseases in South Africa. But iu both countries the people upon the whole are remarkably healthy and vigorous, and instances of longevity are as frequent in one as in the other. Still, if comfort be taken as the standard, I think decidedly that South Africa is entitled io the higher place. If all the unpleasantly hot days, unpleasantly cold days, unpleasantly wet, slushy, or snowy days, and unpleasantly windy days in both countries during a year were thrown out, there would, I am sure, be a much greater number left in South Africa than in Canada. I will add, while expressing this opinion, that I regard a clear, dry, frosty day, when a fur coat and cap are needed, with all the affection of a Canadian for that kind of weather. The mean temperature of the following places for the whole year is as under : — Charlottetown, province of Prince Edward Island St. John Fredericton ,',' Hnlifnx „ Montreal „ Quebec „ Ottawa „ Toronto „ Winnipeg „ ^Victoria „ Capetown, Gape Colony Klmberley Durban, Natal New Brunswick . Nova Scotia Quebec •I Ontario Manitoba British Columbia.. 407 Ut'S 307 42-8 421 SH'S 4n-s 44-5 82-9 47-4 OS 63 70 CHAPTER III. Canada, and South Africa befobk coMiNa UNDBB THE BbiTISH FlAO. One of the chief ciuses of Canada being in advance of South Africa at the present time is that it has been occupied longer by NOTES ON CANADA ANT SOUTH AFRICA. IS Suropeans, and became part of the British kmpire at an earlier date. It was in 1497 that John Cabot — a Venetian lomiciled in Bristol — and his son Sebastian rere commissioned bv Henry YII of England search for a western passage to China. le king had refused to assist Columbus in kime of need, but as soon as the great dis- poverer's success was known, he felt a longing to share the gains of the enterprise. Cabot jiailed westward, but instead of reaching ^hina, he encountered an unknown land, long which he coasted a considerable dis- mce. This was considered by Henry and lis successors sufficient to give England a ightful claim to the greater part of Nort.h kmerica, though for long years they did lothing to make their pretensions good. In 1524 Francis I of France sent a i^lorentine named John Yerazani on a voyage >f discovery. He, like Cabot, did nothing lore than sail along the coast from Cape i'ear to Labrador, and toush at a few places, }ut his voyage was made the pretext by Trance for laying claim to three-fourths of ^he continent. Ten years later, in 1534, Jacques Cartier, of St. Malo, the first real explorer of Canada, liled up the St. Lawrence until he could see ind on both sides. Then he returned to Trance, taking two Indian boys with him, }ut in the following year he was again in the j;reat river, with the advantage of having as interpreters the lads, who had acquired some 'cnowledge of French. At the island of Orleans he received a warm welcome from )onakona, the chief of an Algonquin clan, rhose wigwams were pitched at a place then illed Stadakona, now Quebec. On the 2nd |of October 1535 he reached the island upon rhich stands at present the first commercial jcity of Canada. It was then partlv occupied [by a Huron clan, whose principal place of {residence was named Hochelaga. Behind their iencampment was a hill which Cartier, who I was charmed with the locality and its sur- Iroundings, named Mont Royal, the royal Imountaiu. He remained there three days, land then dropped down the river to Stada- Ikona, where ne passed the winter. In the {spring of 1536 he returned to France, repay- ing the kindness of the Indians by entrapping Donakona and several of hia men, and taking them with him. The unfortunate victims of his treacliery never again saw their native I land. They all died in exile. During the sixteenth century various at- I tempts were made by Frenchmen to form a settlement in one part of Canada or another. but from various' causes none of them sue- ceeeded. All this time, however, fleets of fishing vessels belonging to all the maritime countries of Europe went regularly every season to the banks of Newfoundland, and the coasts of that island and of others in the gulf were occupied for months together as drying stations. This is not so very different from the, early history of South Africa. Jin 1486 Bartholomeo Dias, an explorer in the service of the king of Portugal, discovered the southern extremity of the continent, and in 1497 Yasco da Gama, who was in the same service, sailed past it to India. On account of these expeditions Portugal laid claim to the country, but never attempted to colonise it. The seizure of the natives at Stadakona and their transportation by Cartier was precisely similar to what Antonio do Campo did at Delagoa Bay in 1502, when he kidnapped a number of men who had been dealing with him in a friendly manner, and carried them away in his ships. There was ao other claimant than Portusral, however, until the close of the sixteenth century, and then the Dutch appeared on the scene and speedily extinguished that country's pretensions to ever^ part of the land except the eastern coast line above St. Lucia Bay. After this, French and Dutch seal hunters occasionally occupied Table Yalley and the islands in Saldanba Bay for short periods, and the English more than once set ashore parties of convicts in the Cape peninsula, but no permanent settlement was made by Europeans in South Africa before 1652. Here Canada got a good start, for on the 3rd of July 1608 Quebec was founded by Samuel de Champldin, one of the most energetic of men. Three years earlier, in 1605, he had assisted to found Port Royal, five or six miles from the spot where Annapolis now stands, at the junction of a river with a magnificent harbour on the eastern shore of the Bay of Fundy — then called la Baie Francaide. Port Royal was after a time abandoned, but was re-occupied in 1610, and t ThB credit due to this ezplonr hu, even In hia own country, beea oullpMd by tlio lialo tliat iiurroundi the name ut Vaaoo da Gam*. Thii is in some mtaiure due tu Oamosni, the great puet ut P(irtui|al, who made u( l>a Oama hii hero. With a pervonity that leemi peculiar to our countrymen when dmiing with foreignen, Ulaa hiu been rubbed oven of hii name, which In moat Kngllsh booki li given In the Spaniah form, DIaa, Thia la on the generally prevaillnjt principle with ua that one furelgu wont la aa guud aa nnuther. In the anmc way the iaiand Santa t'rui haa been turned into 8t, Cnilz, In uttrr diaregard ut the fact that It waa diacovered by Portuguoae, not by Kirnulimen, Many of the namea of plaona on the South African cotuit Iiiivh im'n and are now being oorruitted through thia apirit uf IndiSeninco tu wluttever la nut Engliah, Aa Inatancea, S, Braa haa become 8t, Blalae, Agulhaa— a Purtngueae noun— haa frequently a French article put before It, and la made to appear In the nhaurd furm of L'Agulhaa, Cape Correntea— a moat expreaalve nam«-la luund on many oharia printed Cape Currientea, Heolfela given aa Itniiflino, and au with many other plaoea on I lie ana* buard aa well aa Inland. Ourely It would be better to turn the worda Into Engliah onea at once, It It la nut worth our trouble tu preacrve them In the language In which they were llrat given. Uaya la aa correct aa Uiaa, ana wuuld have the adTautags ut Ming leaa liable tu mlapruuounclatlon. 14 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. though pillaged and destroyed by Samuel Argal], of Virginia, in 1614, and ou more than one occasion subuequently by other Englishmen, continued in existence for the next hundred years, with short intervals when its inhabitants were driven away. Owing to its temporary abandonment in 1607, Quebec, which would otherwise have been the second settlement in Canada in order of date, has the honour of being the oldest permanently occupied European post in that country. Champlain was not the nominal head of the French colonists at Quebec until long after this date, but he was the life and soul of the party, and had it not been for him a successful settlement on the St. Lawrence would not then have been made. One great mistake he fell into. Hochelagaand Stadakona had shared the fate of all encampments of savages, and even tradition knew their names no more, but Algonquin d^ns were still in the valley of the St. Lawrence, and their lodges were pitched here and there over all the broad land eastward to the Atlantic. They were at feud with the § Iroquois, the renowned five nations, who occupied the . noith' rn part of what is now the state of New Tork, and they asked Champlain to assist them in a raid. Mainly for the purpose of exploring the country he consented, and by doing so brought enmity between the warlike Iroquois and the French for ever after. very slow was the growth of the European settlement in Canada. The English colonies farther south were apprehensive of the rise of a rival power on the continent, and did not scruple to destroy the French villages and trading stations whenever an opportunity offered. They always put forward the claim founded on Cabot's discovery. In 1621 King James I granted the entire territory south of the lower course of the St. Lawrence and east of the river St. Croix to Sir William Alexander, who gave it the name New Scotland, or Nova Scotia, as it soon began to be termed in Great Britain. King Charles I confirmed this grant, and a number of •• baronets of Nova Scotia " were created. These baronets were to send out colonists to the country, and in return were to have large areas of land and extensive feudal privileges under Sir William Alexander, but nothing practical came of the scheme. » The oontedentcd tribci were the Quuiidiucu, the OiieldM, the Ourum, the HohKWki, and the Henctuiu. In 1717 the Tuio»ruru •ntered the union, and thereafter the Iruquoli weni termed the Hlx Nattoiii. They acted a pruintnent part In the hietury u( the United Stjteia; well a* ut Canada, and I ihall haveuooaelun tu rater to them asalii. It wai the confederacy of the tilx Natlorit, each Independent fur Internal |.urpo«ei, but all tuMether forming one peuuln fur (Inrenae and other glint ralmeaiuret, to which Benjamin Pranklln pointed ai a model fur the thirteen British oolonlei louth of Caiwda tu iduDt at the time of the reToluttoa, In July 1629 Champlain was obliged to surrender Quebec to an English force under j Captain Thomas Eirke. Port Boyal had Sreviously been occupied by Captain David; lirke, and in the whole country only one small stronghold. Fort Louis, at Cape Sable, was left ; under the French flag. The French colonists were there, but were governed by Scotch officials. In March 1632, however, a treaty was concluded between Great Britain and France, by the terms of which Canada was transferred intact to the latter power, and thereafter the names of Cabot and Verazani disappear from history. And now for many years there was, with the exception of one important event, nothing to record but strife between different factions, efforts made by missionaries of the Society of Jesus to convert the savages to Christianity, and almost constant war between the Iroquois on one side, and the Hurons, the Algonquins, and the French colonists on the other. Several of the missionaries were captured, tartured, and put to death by the Iroquois, but their associates continued the work with undaunted zeal. The important event referred to was the foundation of Yille Marie — now Montreal —on the 17th of May 1642 by the lord of Maisonneuve and a party sent out from France by a religious association, their object being neither commerce nor colonisation, but the establishment of a hospital and schools for the propagation of the Christian faith. The position of the place was such, however, that it speedily became a centre of the profitable fur trade, and under its protection settlers cleared the forests along the banks of the St. Lawrence and thriving farms appeared. In 1655 a partv of five hundred English colonists under Colonel Sedgwick sailed from Boston and seized Port Boyal and several other places in that part of the country, of which possession was kept until 1670. By the treaty uf Breda in 1667, indeed, these conijuests were to have been restored, but their new governors were exceedingly loth to Krt with them, and it was fully three years er when the French had Canada again all to themselves. By this time it had become evident that French and English governments could not exist side by side in America. The colonists of different nationalities did not merely dis- like, they positively hated oiich other. The Iroquois were allied with the English, and the Hurons and Algonquins with the French, and war was carried on by means of the savages when the parent countries were professedly at peace. Dreadful massacres were committed NOTES ON CANAliA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 16 both sides. The Hurons were nearly literminated by their foes, and in August 389 a terrible slaughter of French men, }men, and children took place at Lachine. \n the other hand the frontier settlements of lew England were exposed to attack by the ^lies of the French, and harrowing tales )uld be told of atrocities perpetrated by the Llgonquins. In the country around Hudson's lay English and French fur traders were ^ways trying to destroy each other. The war which broke out in 1689 between keat Britain and France gave the New pnglanders an opportunity of attempting enly to blot out French dominion on the mtinent. They fitted out an expedition of jight hundred men, and placed it under com- land of Sir William Pbips, who in May 1690 Bized Port Boyal. A little later in the same lear with a larger force Phips attempted to Vet possession of Quebec, but found that place ?o strong for him, and then Port Boyal was Ibandoued. The peace of Byswyk in 1697 eft both parties in the same position as before lie war. But hostilities soon commenced again in Surope, and in America the old scenes of pillage and slaughter were at once re-enacted. 1710 an expedition of three thousand five Lundred men, fitted out in New England and placed under command of Colonel Nicholson, eized Port Boyal, which so often had been ie spoil of war, and renamed the basin Lnnapolis, in honour of the English queen. (t has never since ceased to be under the iritish flag, for by the treaty of Utrecht in 1713 Louis XIV of France ceded to Great Britain the Hudson's Bay territory, the island ^f Newfoundland, and the whole of the present province of Nova Scotia except Cape Breton Island. He retained, however, Prince Edward ^sland, Cape Breton Island, all the islands in 'ae Gulf of St. Lawrence, and all the country rest of the present province of New Bruns- nck. Whetner the territory now known as few Brunswick was included in the cession or ras retained by France was afterwards a lisputed question. But while signing away such a vast extent bf territory, the French king had no intention ^f losing his hold upon the Atlantic seaboard Df Canada. Immediately he commenced to }uild the strong fortress of Louisbourg on )ape Breton Island, which with its outworks 3st not less than a million pounds sterling, jouisbourg became a great naval station. It >mmanded the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and from it expeditions could easily be sent to any irt of the Atlantic coast. It was held to bie the strongest fortress in America, for its walls were of immense thickness, and on its ram- parts were nearly two hundred great guns. Then French forts were erected in different parts of the present province of New Bruns- wick. The Ind'ans were instigated to oppose the English, ana the French colonists in the ceded country were encouraged to refuse to take an unconditional oath of allegiance to the English king. War in Europe was renewed in 1744, and at once privateers sailed from Louisbourg to prey upon the commerce of New England, while from the same stronghold went an expedition which destroyed a British fort at Canso and then invested Annapolis — ^the ancient Port Boyal — and nearly succeeded in taking it. The people of New England were not disposed to look calmly upon the destruc- tion of their shipping, so they armed four thousand men, and sent them under command of Colonel William Pepperell to endeavour to wrest Louisbourg from the French. A squadron of English men-of-war accompanied the expedition and co-operated with it. The siege of the fortress, which lasted six weeks, is one of the most remarkable events in the history of Canada, when it is considered that it was conducted by raw militiamen, and that the garrison consisted of two thousand trained soldiers. But it was carried on with such skill and bravery that it ended by a capitula- tion of thfl French, and in June 1745, to the great joy of the colonists of New England, the British flag was hoisted over Louisbourg. That joy, however, was doomed to be tum^ to the keenest disappointment, for in 1748 by the treaty of Aix la ChapeUe the fortress and the island of Cape Breton were restored to France. Great Britain meantime had done nothing to colonise Nova Scotia, but in July 1749 Halifax, the first English setblement in Canada, was founded. The conduct of the French residents of Nova Scotia was very unsatisfactory to the English authorities. Naturally they sym- pathised with the land of their ancestors, and they persibtently refused to take an unqualified oath of allegiance to the king of England. Many of them were leagued with the Micmac clans of the Algonquins in open opposition to British tuthority whenever an opportunity offered, and they persisted in supplying Louis- bourg with provisions against positive orders and while the British garrisons in the country were unable to procure as much food as was needed. Still, with all this against them, the terrible suffering that was inflicted upon them 16 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOXTTH AFRICA. Ill in 1755 cannot be justified. In that year more than three thousand men, women, and children — the exact number is uncertain and some have estimated it as hi^h as eight thousand — were seized and forcibly conveyed by sea to the different English colonies farther south, where they were scattered as widely as possible. They were not permitted to toke anything with them but money and such household furniture as could be conveniently conveyed in the ships, all their cattle were confiscated, and their churches, houses, and bams were given to the flames. The halo of poetry, which Longfellow in Evangeline has thrown over this deplorable act, has given to it an imperishable notoriety. The end of the long conflict which was to decide whether France or England was to frame the destiny of the northern portion of the new world was now near at hand. In 1756, after what was nothing more than a tiuce for eight years, war broke out again between the mighty rivals, and each despatched strong naval and military forces to contend for the great prize in America. The genius and ability of the marquis of Montcalm, the French commander-in>chief, enabled him to inflict some severe blows upon his opponents, and for a time it seemed as if the English cause was doomed to go under. The com- batants bore to each other a deadly hatred, and the struggle was carried on in a more ferocious manner than is usual in European wars, through the employment of Indian allies, who committed most atrocious massacres. The British reverses in America caused the fall of the Newcastle ministry, and Pitt succeeded to power with the firm resolve to destroy for ever the French dominion beyond the Atlantic. Strong reinforcements of troops and ships of war were sent out, able officers were appointed to command, and the English colonies were requested to cooperate with all the men they could put into the field, which they were only too ready to do. France at this time was unable to strengthen her armies in America, and Montcalm was left to his own resources. He had ten regiments of veteran troops exclusive of the garrison of Louisbourg, and he called out every man in Canada capable of bearing arms, which gave him fifteen or sixteen thousand militia. In 1758 Louisbourg was attacked by an army of twelve thousand uieu, under Major- General Amherst, assisted by a fleet of thirty- seven ships of war under Admiral Boscaweu. The fortress had a garrison three thousand five hundred strong, and was aided by five ships of the line and several smaller vessels. During seven weeks a storm of shot and shell was poured in, four of the great ships were ; burnt and the other was cut out by night, the smaller vessels were all sunk, and at' length, when four-fifths of the guns on the ramparts were dismounted, Louisbourg with its immense stores was surrendered. The soldiers and sailors were sent to England as prisoners, and the inhabitants of the island were conveyed to France. Then Brigadier-General Wolfe, who had commanded a division of the besieging force, was directed to destroy the whole of the French settlements on the shore of the gulf from Miramichi upward and along the river St. Li,wrence as far as he could, with the object of preventing supplies of any kind being sent to Montcalm and of forcing the government at Quebec to maiutain the des- titute inhabitants. This was the way war was conducted in the final struggle for the posses- sion of Canada. Wolfe carried out his orders literally, and wherever his forces appeared the French villages and farmhouses were given to the flames. In the region of the great lakes this year several successes were obtoined by the English, but at Ticonderoga Lord Abercrombie met with a crushing defeat from Montcalm. The campaign of 1759 was marked bv the fall of Quebec. To Wolfe, who had shown ability of a high order at the siege of Louis- bourg, the command of the expedition against that fortress-city was given. Early in June with eight thousand troops and a strong naval force he appeared before it, and found that Montcalm with thirteen thousand levies of all kinds was there to oppose him. Among those levies, however, were many mere boys, and many more were savage Indians, whose only service was to cut off stragglers from the English camps and murder and scalp thein. The villages in the neighbourhood were first destroyed, and then strong batteries were built on the isknd of Orleans and on the lofty bank of the river at Levis, from which shells were thrown into Quebec until the whole of the lower town and a great portion of the upper lay in ruins. On the last day of July an attempt was made to storm some of the outworks, but it failed. Then the bombard- ment was resumed, and was continued until the 13th of September, when Wolfe and nearly five thousand soldiers stood in battle array on the plain of Abraham outside the walls of Quebec. The genius of the English general had led him to devise a plan of taking the city. During the night he had marched the best of his troops some distance up the of shot and shell great ships were ut out by night, kU sunk, and at' the guns on the Louisbourg with lurrendered. The at to England as its of the island Wolfe, who had e besieging force, e whole of the hore of the gulf I along the river I could, with the ies of any kind d of forcing the laiutain the des- the way war was le for the posses- led out his orders forces appeared 'armhouses were t lakes this year d by the English, Lbercrombie met Ifontcalm. a marked by the who had shown } siege of Louis- cpedition against Early in June and a strong >re it, and found thousand levies se him. Among lany mere boys, Indians, whose agglers from the and scalp them, irhood were first batteries were and on the lof tj cm which shells til the whole of portion of the last day of July rm some of the in the bombard- continued until len Wolfe and stood in battle lam outside the of the English a plan of taking le had marched distance up the^ A CANADIAN APPLE ORCHAED. A CANADIAN VINEYARD. i; , 1 A CAPE VINEYARD. tigw«ae.» n«.iililw»m » J »» M i»«w< "" NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 17 fr, and had then dropped quietly down in Its ' a little cove above which the bank 8u steep that Montcalm thought it could I be scaled. Some Highlanders clambered irst and killed the French sentries before could give the alarm, so that tli<> whole managed to get up uanoticed. Montcalm lid not allow the Eaglish to entrench thein- res there and to cut him ofE from the jutry behind, so he went out to meet them Ifa an army superior indeed in number, but |tly inferior in quality, as it was composed ^nly of militiamen despondeat and half rved. The British stood firm, though the liers were falling fast, until the French k'e within a few yards of them, when they ired in a deadly volley of musketry and kn charged with claymore and bayonet and in the field. Both generals fell in the lion. Five days later, 18th of September |r>9, the French troops capitulated, and the Itorious English took possession of the ruins [Quebec, l^he city was besieged the following spring General De Levi, Montcalm's successor. It was net taken, and it has ever since laiued under the British flag, [n other parts of Canada the English arms also been victorious, and in the summer 1 1760 nothing remained to the French but ontreal, where they made their final stand. Vaudreuil, the last French governor, was |ere, and with him were some three thousand jular troops under De Levi, besides the liitia. Three distinct British armies, under [e generals Amherst, Haviland, and Murray, ch stronger than the remnant of the French irces in Canada, marched from different bints, and reached Montreal almost at the Ime time. De Vaudreuil was incapable of [aking any resistance, and on the 8th of liptember 1760 he signed a capitulation 'lich placed the British in full possession of ie devastated and exhausted country. His roops were sent to France, and the militia >turned to their homes. In February 1763 by the treaty of Paris le French king relinquished his claim to lanada, and kept nothing in that part of jmerica except the little islands of St. Pierre id Miquelon, and some fishing rights on ie coast of Newfoundland. Thus after an icistence of one hundred and. fifty-two years, ^om the foundation of Quebec in 1608 to the irrender of Montreal in 1760, the dominion France passed away for ever. When Canada became part of the British Impire its civilised inhabitants were under one hundred thousand in number. They were in the last stage of poverty, they had been living under a purely despotic and* abominably cor- rupt government, and they had been subject to taxes and impositions which to Englishmen Heem utterly outrageous. Tet no people could be more loyal to their fatherland than they were to France. As long as there was the slightest chance of success they had borne arms for a cause against which it would seem the first duty of thinking men to revolt, and their attachment to their laws, their customs, their religion, and their language was as strong as their love of life itself. The history of South Africa before the English flag waved there is less eventful than that of Canada. In April 1652 Jan van Biebeek with a small party of soldiers and labourers' landed on the shore of Table Bay, in order to estab- lish a place of refreshment for the fleets of the Dutch East India Company. His em- ployers had no intention of founding a great colony, and he lived and died without even dreaming that any portion if the land beyond the Cape peninsula would be permanently occupied by Europeans. Five years after his arrival a few soldiers and sailors took their discharge from the East India Company's service, and became farmers in the neighbour- hood of the fort, but still no one thought of growing anything beyond what was needed by the crews of calling ships. It was believed that as many cattle as were required could be obtained in barter from the Hottentots, but from 1672 to 1676 there was war with a tribe of that race, and all trade was cut off. Then tor the first time it was found necessary to establish Europeans as cattle breeders, and an expansion of the settlement began. In 1679 the village of Stellenbosch was founded, and in 1687 the fertile Drakenstein valley was occupied. After 1688 a few French Huguenot refugees came to South Africa with other immigrants, but the growth of the colony was so slow that at the close of the seventeenth century no white man was living beyond the range of mountains that shuts in the view from Cape- town. Subsequently the expansion was more rapid, though the country was very thinly settled, for the cattle breeders required large pastures, and as a matter of course they selected only the choicest localities. The pastoral Hottentot tribes were almost swept away by small-pox, so the land was open for occupation, though the utterly savage Bush- men — until they were all but exterminated — tried to preveiit its acquirement by Europeans. 18 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. !!i| In 1746 the Tillage of Swelleodam was founded, and in 1786 the village of Oraaff- Beinet. By this time the colonists moTing onward from the west met the advance guard of the Bantu coming in the opposite direction, and a long series of conflicts began, which have not always ended in favour of the higher race. The Dutch colony was undisturbed by a foreign foe until 1781, when an attempt as made by Great Britain to get possession of it. The French, however, assisted Holland by sending a strong armed force to protect it, so that its loss was for the time averted. Shortly after this event the Dutch East India Company became insolvent, and its South African dependency was reduced to a very wretched condition. Commerce almost ceased, the paper money in circulation was next to valueless, there was no sympathy between the government and the people, and, worst of all, a large body of Bantu invaders could not be driven back, because the author- ities had no means even to procure ammuni- tion. Under these circumstances the colonists at a distance from Capetown threw ofE their allegiance to the East India Company, and established two feeble republics with utterlv unworkable constitutions. In 1795 an English fleet appeared in Simon's Bay, and me officers on board de- manded that the colony should be transferred to them in trust for the prince of Orange, who had been obliged to take re' age in England, owing to a revolution in Holland aided by the French republicans. There was no force capable of opposing them, and the principal Dutch officers were partisans of the Prince of Orange, so the government, though (>rofessing a determination to hold out to the ast, offered no real resistance, and in Septem- ber 1795 the country came under British rule. A faint parallel might here be drawn between the expulsion of the French colonists from Nova Scotia in 1755 and the banish- ment of ten or twelve Dutch colonists from South Africa by Lord Macartney — the first English governor — and his successor, Sir Oeorge Yonge, 1797-1801, because they refused to take an unqualified oath of allegiaiieu tu the king of Great Britain, only in the latter case the number was very small, the wives and children of the offenders were not forced to accompany them, and their property was not' confiscated. * By the terms of the treaty of Amiens, in February 1803 the Cape Colony was restored ^ to the Dutch. It now became a national possession, and was well governed and highly prized. But soon afterwards war commenced again, and in January 1806 an overpowering British force arrived in Table Bay. General Janssens, the last Dutch governor, had a very small number uf regular soldiers, and most of them were foreign mercenaries who could not be depended upon. A strong body of burghers, however, rallied to his aid, and he attempted to fight a battle at Blueberg. Victory favoured his opponents, and as a consequence the European settlement in South Africa came permanently under the British flag. It ex- tended at that time from the Atlantic ocean eastward to the Fish and beyond the Baviaans river, and from the Indian ocean northward some distance into the great plain that is drained by the Ora'ige river. The Cape Colony from the landing of Van Biebeek iu 1(352 to the surrender of General Janssens in 180G had been under Dutch rule- including the temporary British occupation mentioned above — one hundred and fifty-four years. When it came under the British flag it contained only twenty-six thousand European settlers, so that it was very far indeed behind Canada. These settlers were of mixed Dutch, French, and German bloud, chiefly Dutch however, as no women, except a few Huguenots, had then migrated to South Africa from any other part of Europe than the Netherlands. They were intensely Protestant, whereas the Canadians were intensely Catholic. In point uf secular education the two people were about equal, that is neither had very much. Neither admired English institutions, and the South Africans were strongly attached to Dutch customs and laws, to the Calvinistic section of the reformed religion, and to the Dutch language. * Tlin (ullowliiK claiifli- in lli<^ liistruetlniia tu Lurd Mwiartiinyihuut tli« piiwcr till! Kuvuriiuia pmanwi'il In Hits nwpnul ;— " Vmi i»™ hm't'J partic'iilurly uutliuriti'il uiiil ii'iinln^ fiir tlic Irlivr unciirliy u( Ihr sulil jiHllli'iiieiit. uiid rill' Hill iiniiiiiuiiaiii'ii uf ((.iial iinliir witlilii liiF sniiii', III ntlan aiirli tniupii tlii'it'lii. hiiiI In ihII mil hiiiI I'liihiidy ■mli I'liiiipiiiiD'ii iir L'lii'pa III .ilililia nil ynii aliiill JiiiIhii iiiMwaaHry fur tlml purpuat', »iiil ItiKi iir liiiiiriauM aiii-li ppiamia as nifiiaii in m^ iiiirullril HMil III ai'rii'. Willi lull niiiiii' \lii» uf iiiniMiniiiliiw iirilnr aiKt Kmul K'lVi'riiiiii'iil.yiiiiuni nlai milluirinMl In idanriii aiirli nf llir liihahllniili uf lliii aiiiil n(illlniii(i|it ai* hiii iml priiprliilnra iir nni nut iiinpliiyttl|i|ii«lil ani li pcraiiiia aa ymi ahall aiiapi'ri m ailhi*nni( in 11111* nii'iiiloa, aiitl all aiii'li iittiiT iHraiiia Mm iMiiiiiiiiianin uf Mliiian n'nlili'iuin ynii may liaiii n'lMiin III IniaidiiH inUlit tiii liu'iiii\iinl«nt ur pivjiiillvl*! In Ihn pvacn KihhI nnli'r, ur aruiirlly nf tliii aalil act t loiiiciil ," NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH APEICA. 19 property was not^ ity of Amiens, io [ony was restored [ '.came a national; erned and highly i war commenced; an overpowering le Bay. General : ernor, had a very Hers, and most of les who could not body of burghers, a,nd he attempted Victory favoured consequence the uth Africa came tish flag. It ex- le Atlantic ocean ond the Baviaans ocean northward i&t plain that is ; landing of Van euder of General ider Dutch rule— ritish occupation 'ed and tifty-four I the British flag iousand European 'ar indeed behind I of mixed Dutch, I, chiefly Dutch i few Huguenots, Africa from any the Netherlands, ant, whereas the bhulic. In point >eople were about 1^ much. Neither I, and the South iched to Dutch inistic section of to the Dutch tu l.iird Mscartiixy ihuu'i 'S|M'ft : -" Villi till! Ueo'lvv If iNiicr mtctirliy u( Ihc r K "<•> iinUir uuliln ilir ull mil mid I'lntniily siii li iiiIhii iiiM'iia«Hry fur timt Kfl n'fiiad til hn I'lirullrit lllltllllliw (irilnr «llil Knol III aiii:liur lliH hiliabllitiili ir Km tinl iiiniilDyril til iiriy llriMifln fur kHiipliitf lli'ir III' Niild niittli'innit sm ti llf IMII'llltl'll, Kllll nil Sllrll ■I'liili'iicn yciii tuny lii«\i< |M'i>Jiiilli>l«l III IhH priuo The following lines upon the first explorer of Canada were written by the late lourable Thomas Darcy McGee, and are taken by me from an illustrated souvenir of Intreal. JACQUES CAR TIER. Tn the seaport of St. Malo, 'twas a smiling mom in May When the commodore Jacques Cartier to the westward sailed away. In the crowded old cathedral all the town were on their knees For the safe return of kinsmen from the undiscovered seas. And every autumn blast that swept o'er pinnacle and pier Filled manly hearts with sorrow and gentle hearts with foar. A year passed o'er St. Malo, again came round the day When the commodore Jacques Cartier to the westward sailed away; But no tidings of the absent ones had come the way they went, And tearful were the vigils that many a maiden spent. And manly hearts were filled with gloom and gentle hearts with fear. When no tidings came from Cartier at th^ closing of the year. But the earth is as the future, it hath its hidden side, And the captain of St. Malo .was rejoicing in his pride, In the forests of the West. While his townsmen mourned their loss He was rearing on Mont Royal the fleurs de lys and cross. And when two months were over and added to the year, St. Malo hailed him home again, cheer answering to cheer. He told them of a region vast, hard, ironbound and cold, Nnr seas of pearl abounded, nor mines of shining gold ; Where the wind from Thule freezes the word u]X)n the lip, And the ice in spring comes sailing athwart the early ship ; He told them of the frozen scene until they thrilled with fear, And piled fresh fuel on the hearth to make him better cheer. But when he changed the strain, he told how soon are cast In early spring the fetters that hold the river fast ; How the winter causeway broken is drifted out to sea. And the rills and rivers sing with pride the anthem of the free ; How the magic wand of summer clad the landscape to his eyes. Like the dry bones of the just when they wake in Paradise. He told them of Algonquin braves, the hunters of the wild. Of how the Indian mother in the forest rocks her child ; Of how, poor souls, they fancy in every living thing A spirit good or evil that claims their worshipping ; Of how tliey brought their sick and maimed tor him to breathe upon, And of the wonders wrought for them through the Gospel of St. John. He told them of the river whose mighty current gave Its freshucss for a hundred leagues to ocean's briny wave; He told them of the glorious scene presented to his sight. What time he reared the cross and crown on Hochelaga's height ; And of the fortress cliff that keeps of Canada the key. And they welcomed home Jacques Cartier from his perils o'er the sea. 90 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. u ^ CHAPTER IV. MoNTBVAL. Canadian and South Aicbican Fruit. Habitans and South African Fabmebs. Municipal Government. TQv MONTREAL is the commer- cial capital of Canada. It is four hundred and thirteen English statute miles in an almost straight line above Point De Monts, where the river pours its waters into the gulf, and so gentle is the descent of the mighty stream that it washes the banks of the island on which the city is built only one hundred and eighty-seven feet above high water level at the sea. Here the navigation for ocean steamers ends, but small vessels have still nearly thirteen hundred miles of open way before Port Arthur at the head of Lake Superior is reached. Canals, leading by means of locks from one sheet of water to another, open the cheapest of all roads far into the depths of the continent, so that Montreal in natural advantages for commerce has few equals and no superior on the (ave of the earth. It is also the centre of a magnificent railway system, being connettted not only with all parts of the Atlantic coast and the borders of the lakes, but with Vancouver on the dis- tant Pacific shore. There is no place in South Africa that can be compared witti it in these respects. The city is built on an island thirty-two miles long and about ten miles wide, and has very extensive quays for shipping. Just behind it is Mount Royal, in form not unlike the Lion's hill on one side of Capetown, if the Head were taken off, but only seven hundred feet in height. There are carriage drives and walks to the top, and there is also a lift or car drawn up on rails by steam at the steeficHt part. From the platform on which the pas- senger lands on reaching the summit, or iHitter ■till from a turret close by, the view is exceed- ingly grand. The city, with its miarter of a million inhabitants, lies below, and l)eyond it is the river, with St. Helen's IhIo in its embrace, and a fair country stretching away to the distant horizon. It is a sight of which a Canadian may well be proud. I do not think, however, that it excels in b(>auty, or inaguiti- cence, or variety of scenery, the view from the kloof between Table Mountain and the Lion's Head, where the spectator has at his side a mass of rock nearly four thousand feet in height, with groves and gardens along its nether slopes, the city of Capetown below, the deep blue water of Table Bay, looking from that standpoint like an enclosed lake, beyond, then the seeming waste of the farther shore, and closing the view the Drakenstein mountain range. There are many colours to be seen from that turret on Mount Royal, and very beautiful they are to the eye ; but they are not so varieil as are the tints in the South African sceiip with which I am comparing them, where every shade of blue and grev and green appears, where the shadows in the gorges arc deep black, and where often, when the south- east wind is blowing, a great snowy-white cloud rests on the mountain top and its flakes melt away as they roll over the lofty crest. It was a lovely day at the end of October when I wandered about the top of Mount Royal. The temperature was about that of June in Capetown, cool enough to admit of plenty of outdoor exercise, but not cold enough for a' pedestrian 'to require a great coat. The sky was clear and bright, still the evidcnccn that autumn was advancing rapidly wen- visible all around. The birches and beecheH and elms had put off their summer garb. The maple leaves — most gorgeous of all tin* vegetable creation — were mostly of a dee|i rich brown, but a few were still to be seen of a scarlet, and a very few of a patched magentii, green, and yellow colour. " And there the maple leaf is seen With tints ot uriiiis'm, i;ol(l, and Kreen ; The red for health, the ifiild for wealth, The Kieen for vigour : einbleiii Krand Of fair and wide Canadian land." When Jacques Cartier saw Mount Roviil, and long vears afterwards, the land for an unknown distance on every side was covereil with a dense primeval forest, in which lln' pine was the predominant tree ; but that Iiuh all passed away. The gntves on the inountuin are of modern gr«>wtli, and are inaiutaiuel there because the place is (me of the pleasiiif resorts of the iH?ople of the city. The patiiH and carriage drives are well kept, so that out' can have a delightful ramble. At the ba<'k nf the mountain, in a very Ijeautiful |K>sitioii, ure the cemeteries, of parts of which an ex- cellent view can lie had from several points nu tlie top. About seven-tenths of the inhabitants dI Montreal are of French desceut, and thfit language is heard far ofteuer than English n> one moves about the streets, Tramway$ with carriages pro|)elled by electricity riiii through the principal thoroughfares. Then Irty- NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 21 ,t his side a land feet in ]g aloDfi; its vn below, tlip looking from lake, beyond, farther ahore, ^ein mountain > be seen from very beautiful I not BO varieil African scene them, where i\ and green the gorges are len the south- , snowy-white and its flakes lofty crest. )d of Oct<»l)er top of Mount about that of \\ to admit of lot cold eoougb eat coat. The the evidencen rapidlv were B and beeches mer garb. The I of all the ,ly of a deep to be seen of ched magenta, iM.>en ,nd trreun ; for wunlth, 1 Krund id." Mount Roviil, land for iiii was covered in which I he but that liiiN the mountain _re maiutaiue( eut. and their lan English a» IS. Tramwav» slectricity run Ihfares. Then lany noble buildings, public and private, tly constructed of a soft-tinted grey stone, [there are Beveral streets superior to the in Capetown. [ontreai is a city of churches. I fancy can be hardly a shade of religious ef that is not represented by a congrega- large or small, and that has not a plac6 [worship. I spent but one Sunday in the and as I wisned to hear the music of the It powerful and at the same time the Btest toned organ in America, I attended rice at the church of Notre Dame. The [erior of this building, which is two hundred fifty-five feet long by one hundred and |rty-five broad, with twin towers in front hundred and twenty feet in height, is )sing ; but the interior is incomparably lender. The church cost over two hundred l>usand pounds sterling to build. The pat bell — called Gros Bourdon — in one of its rers is over fourteen tons in weight, and in other tower is a chime. The Roman tholic cathedral — St. James's — is built on L-tly the same plan as St. Peter's at Rome, is only half as large. The new church of Jesuits is a still more beautiful building, ' there are many others belonging to the >man Catholic communion, among them Patrick's, built by Irish immigrants. The iglish cathedral — Christ church —is a splen- ' specimen of gutbic architecture, and there several Presbyterian churches not far ^hind it. And so of the places of worship of lier religious bodies mention might be made, Ht were not that the list would become so ig as to bo wearisome. [The MnGill University, established bv royal karter in 1821, is one of the institutions of lontreal. It is to the Protestants what the ■.▼al Universitv in Quebec is to the Roman itholics. Colleges and schools abound. So hospitals and charitable institutions of ^any kinds. I was somewhat asttmiahed to find that kere is no public museum in the city. The latural Historv Society has a small one, (deed, to which admittance is obtained on kyment of ten cents, but the collection is bry far behind that in the public museum in rtown. There are ouly a few mammals, hardly any reptiles. The collection is rongest in birds, which, however, nre badly inged and not classified. The labelling, lich is such an important feature in a well- inducted museum, is very imperfect. A llv mounted specimen of an antelope was irlv the only genuine representative of DUtD African animals, and as the manage- aid whatever government or existence and be(]|ueats and ment was not sure whether it was a blesbok (damalis aVnfrons) or a bontebok {damalis pygarga), — ^though the names are so significant — it was labelled either one or the other. The visit.or was left free to call it which he liked. There were some genuine Bantu assagais, and some others were marked as prot^blv from South Africa, though certainly no South African native ever made or used them. A few of the spoils of Egypt and some trifling odds and ends completed the collection, which was not what one might reasonably expect to find in a city like Montreal. The Capetown museum, when the new building is completed, will be worth a dozen of it, especially if the word probably or possibly is added to the labelling of one or two specimens that are now marked definitely. I met with another disappointment in the public library. This institution receives no from either the provincial the municipality, but owes its its maintenance entirely to donations from wealthy in- dividuals. The chief librarian, who happens to be connected by marriage with a South African family, is one of the most obliging of men. He was ^ood enough to take down for my inspection every volume he had upon either Canada or South Africa, but there were few with which I was not already acquainted. He informed me that there were about thirty-five thousand volumes in the collection, a large proportion of which are in French. The institution is open every day — Sundays in- cluded — from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., and is not only free to visitors, but any respectable' person is at libert^r to take out books that can if necessary be easily replaced, upon leaving a sufficient guarantee for their return in good condition. There are no yearly subscribers. The library is in every respect considerably behind that of Capetown, except that it provides greater conveniences for recognised students. In this one particular it has the advantage, because it has plenty of space, which the Capetown librarv has not at present. But very shortly, when the contents of the museum wing are removed to the handsome building now being erected for their reception, that matter will doubtlessly be rectified in Capetown, for the very estimable chief librarian there has it at heart ; and then the South African institution will excel not only in the numlier and value of its works of reference, but in all that goes to make a great collection of books of use to a community. Aided by government and the municipality with liberal grants of money. 22 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. with a large body of subscribers, and with the magnificent gift of Sir George Grey, the fine old volumes of the Dessinian collection, and the Porter and Hiddingh donations, it is indeed, as the astronomer Herschel termed it, " the bright eye " of South Africa. In Montreal I observed a good many persons without any recognised occupation, and upon inquiry I ascertained that there were in the city a considerable number of men either physically or through habit unfit for manual labour and without sufiicient education or mental ability to make a living in any other way. Farmers in the province cannot get as many labourers as they need, domestic servants are in great demand, and yet in the city men are on the very border of pauperism. This is the case also in South Africa, where the same kind of people — fit only for inferior clerkships or other light duties — are too numerous to be absorbed. The surplus in- dividuals of this class are a nuisance and a source of danger in both countries, though much more so in Canada than in South Africa. But it is noticeable that in neither country do these people present the wretched appearance of the waifs of Liverpool, they manage somehow to dress fairly well and keep themselves clean and tidy. In Montreal I did not see a single person in rags or otherwise wretched in appearance, but of course I cannot sa;^ there were none in the streets which I did not visit. There was a very fine display of fruit iu the markets and the produce stores, apples and cranberries being in the greatest profusion, and pears, plums, grapes, &c., iu smaller quan- tities. The Canadian apples everywhere are esteemed the best in the world, for the climate seems specially suited to them, and much care is taken in their culture. Immense quantities are required for home consumption, and the export is also very large. Each variety has a distinctive name, and care is taken not to mix them, while further they are sorted according to size and packed separately in barrels con- taining two bushels and a half each. In this particular fruit South Africa could not hope to com pete in the English market with Canada, if it were not that the time of harvest in the one country is the time of budding in the other, which gives the southern grower a chance. But he must produce a bettor apple than the one ordinarily sold in Capetown, and he must not expect an exorbitant price for it. The Canadian studies the trees and the soil, and takes care that both are kept in the b*>Ht condition, he leaves nothing to chance. By budding and other means he has succeeded in getting heavy crops of a highly flavoured fruit from quick growing trees, but the process has needed thought and labour, and it needs constant thought and labour to maintain the orchards at a high standard after they an created. There are no pears or plums in Canada superior to the best kinds produced in Soutb Africa, with the exception perhaps of out variety of the latt«r. Grapes can only be grown in the province of Ontario, and are verj inferior to those of the Cape. I could not eat them at all, for they had a peculiar flavour, to which the palate must be educated. It was not the season for apricots and peaches when I was in Montreal, but I think they can be set down as better in South Africa. No variety of the orange thrives in Canada. Upon the whole Canada excels South Africa in apples, cherries, curmnts, gooseberries, cranberries, blueberries, strawberries, and raspberries, is about equal in pears, plums, and blackberries, and is inferior in grapes, apricots, peaches, nectarines, and quinces, South Africa besides has pineapples, figs, oranges, lemons, nartjes, bananas, loquats, guavas, grenadillas, and love apples or Cape gooseberries, which Canada cannot produce. The advantages at first sight seem greatly in favour of South Africa, yet in 1893 Canada exported fruit to the value of .£590,504, while the Cape sent abroad only Je7,223 worth. The reason of the difference is — partly at least— that in one country white men do the work, and in the other the far inferior labour of coloured men is depended upon. But the agriculturists of South Africa are awak<>ning to the fact that a profitable opening presents itself in the growth of fruit for ex- portation to England, and the great difference in the figures given in the preceding paragraph may not long be maintained. The sea passage is twice as long as from Canada, but the quick steamers ofthe present day have half annihilated distance. Even in the early years of this century grapes were shipped at Marseilles and months afterwards were sold in perfectly good condition in St. John, New Brunswick, ho that they ought easily to be sent from Capetown to London now. My cousin first removed. Sizar Elliott, who was engaged in V. Thurgar's auctioneering and business in St. John before 183S went to Australia, in his " Fifty Colonial Life," published at " 1887, tells how it was done. Mr. John wholesale when he Years of Melbourne in He says :— " 1 have spoken of grapes, we received them in earthen jars 8uflici(>utly large to have each held a thief as in the story of ' Ali Baba, or NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 2B igbly flavoured , but the process ur, and it needs to maintain the after they an ams in Canadi duced in Soutl perhaps of one es can only be rio, and are verj I could not eat peculiar flavour, lucated. It was I peaches when [ they can be set ca. No variety la. els South Africa s, gooseberries, 'awberries, and in pears, plums, erior in grapes, I, and quinces, pineapples, figs. ananas, loquats, apples or Cap* iunot produce, ht seem greativ I in 1893 Canada ^£590,504, while ,223 worth. The artly at least— sn do the work, "erior labour of )uth Africa are |rofitable opening )£ fruit for ex- great difference ading paragra[)li |he sea passage is but the quick [halfannihilatcd years of this Marseilles and perfectly good [nswick, HO that from Capetown first removed, in Mr. John I and wholesale |l835, when he i'ifty Years of Melbourne in jHe says :— " 1 Iceived them in to have each 'Ali Baba, ur brty Thieves.' Only it would have been k the men if they had bad to travel up in the same way as the grapes did ; jars had lids sunk into the neck, and were run round with cement. These B, although they must have been four IS old, generally arrived in capital con- They were packed in thoroughly dry sawdust, that being all that was re- to keep them. Sometimes, as we up the grapes and dusted out the saw- we found a grape or two decayed, but were easily removed with the scissors, est were fit to eat." ter I had been in Montreal a few days the ts began tn get cold, the thermometer I some degrees below the freezing point, thin sheets of ice formed over still water jtposed situations. The winter might be [a month distant. In 1873 the navigation bie St. Lawrence closed as early as the of November, but twice since it has been until the 2nd of January. The river lined frozen over in 1885 until the 5th of but in 1892 it was open on the 13th of April. Thus the winter varies in length from months and eleven days to five months I nine days. ;had not time to spare, or I should have to go into the country north of itreal, to have ascertained, by personal iiilrcourse, what changes had come over the kiipitans — that is, the French Canadians— Aiiing the last forty years. My first desire to visit my relatives, and then to cross the fcntic to Europe, where there were many iments in archive oflices which I was |ious to copy as soon as my health would lit me to do so. To these purposes every- ig else had to give way, so that I could only observe the c3udition of the titans in the city, and enquire iuto their le of life on the farms, but subsequently ^ad an opportunity of gathering the in- nation which I needed. I found that the it majority of them had changed very le, if at all. They are still the same simple, ppitable, contented people that they have for the last hundred years and more, the resentatives in mind of the France of lis XIV, just as many South African lers represent the Netherlands of Buisot Heemskerk rather than the Holland of lay. A small minority have drifted iuto ruuhiug tide of the present age, but these, lugh their sympathies are still strong with V countrymen, can not draw the farmers ^r them. The habitans, as a body, viih to just at their fathers lived before them. They dislike innovations, and there is great difficulty in inducing them to adopt even an improved farm implement. There is no way of conveying new ideas to their minds, except by example, for they do not read any other than books of devotion, and do not care to converse npon strange subjects. Exactly the same thing can be said of a great many of the secluded farmers of South Africa, only the books of devotion are different. A habitant will see an English farmer do double the work with some new implement, and will continue to use his own old one until his priest advises him to make a change. He has a kind of feeling that if he abandons his customs in •■'.ny particular, he may be opening the floodgates to infidelity and loss of nation- ality. The education which his children receiiie is limited, and, as far as it goes, tends to confirm them in these conservative ideas. Quebec is a French province, that is, of its population of one . million five hundred thousand souls, four-fifths are French speak- ing, and under the constitution of the Dominion, each province has control of its own school system, so that a change can hardly be expected. In presence of either the habitans of Canada or the remote farmers of South Africa, one can realise how very slow what we call pro- gress must have been in the ancient world. Without a printing press, with hardly any- thing beyond the merest elementary education in schools, une generation lived just as did the one before it. I do not say that progress of the kind here referred to is good or is bad. That, I take it, depends largely upon the view which one holds of the object of life. For what purpose are wo in this world Y If the answer is to make' ourselves aud those around us as happy as possible, the Canadian habitant and the South African farmer are right in the course they are following. To them the agony of doubt IS unknown, as are the envy and hatred and care born of the fierce strife to keep afloat in the whirling stream of progress. Perfectly safe in a Father's care, both are con- tented with the condition in which they are, and droad nothing more than departure frooi it. But is this view of life the correct one i' No, replies some one, we are iu this world for the purpose of forming character, that can be the only object of existence. If this be so, progress is good, the battle of life, fought in Its stream with many a scar and many a ■tunning blow, has a real meaning attached to it, for to hiir. that overcometh there is high reward. '***a 24 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOTJTH AFRICA. The habitant, as is natural in a country where there are practically only white men, is much more industrious than the South African farmer, who lives in presence of a coloured race. He is a first class lumberman. As a lonffshore fisherman he cannot be ex- celled. He makes a f^d mechanic, he is willing to work in a factory, and he plods away cheerfully in the little plot of ground which is his share of a goodly-sized ancestral estate, now cut up under the law of inherit- ance which treats all the children of a family alike. His wife and sisters and daughters are even more industrious than he is himself. He marries young, and usually has a large family. In his home he makes an amiable host, and the women especially are courteous to strangers as well as to acquaintances. The habitant is a kind and obliging neigh- bour. No one in want applies tduce of his plot ,he widow do '; best and most ficulty. He told to do, and thejf e. And so on ice in the great he whole parish 1, the men with and the women , and before the ,g the crops were 1 the scene, the uevolent workers was an event of heap of quaiat, irith huge erect ight over from turies ago — the >men, which the; 1 their kerchiefs ,hey commenced differs from the )f a more roving le— if any — real hich his youtb v to sell off an(i He is rather rom others, and sociations likt perament he ii ipitable, his aiii distress, and in IS church. Thm Iblances betweet eral particulars le for this cuii longer either k It cannot, t'oi saide railways < Ed a H Eli; > o s P3 11 -*: M h^ cc m O a I— I PS > I— ( H PS o o »«»J jrti NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 25 t "J '64. < CO CO O !^ w Q hi 03 PQ 03 > I— I 03 tS3 I— I 03 O O •i^^^ these are being couRtructed every- .wlj^^, the old order of things must in time Pfifjl^awav. Neither cau it be maintained in and villages of mixed inhabitants, and le province of Quebec the division of has in many parts been carried on until »%vner8 have been compelled bv sheer jrty to remove, when instead of settling jew land in the western prairies they have as factory hands into United States or liidian towns, with the hope — not often ised — of being able to return with a small (fMlbpetency later in life. They do not change iHiHabit, but their children, under the altered (4il^m stances, must. The South African f«|ytier, too, is in front of conditions which lllpel him either to move away to distant psamedes, or to adapt himself — in a small ree at least — to his new environment, ther one nor other is wanting in brain fer. They try to keep out of the whirl of l)y choice, not because they are incapable of holding their own with other races, and iQ the day comes that they are forced to indon their, position of isolation, they will l^bably be found among the most active and eiiterprisiag of peoples. . j'^.At Montreal I commenced making inquiries ' to the working of municipal institutions in ^nada, with a view of comparison with lilar institutions in South Africa. I fol- iwed up these inquiries wherever I went E-rwards in the maritime provinces, and the (liBult can be given here as well as in a future .•(liapter. ^Naturally in a matter of this kind ,;ODe cannot speak with absolute precisi'^n, J^cause it is hardly possible for any individual ;,t« bo acquainted with the Arorkiiig of every ■ ^0iwn and village board in a country as large .f$ the Cape Colony, much less in all South .•Africa and in Canada as well. I can merely .j(||ve the general impression that I received, -ji^i impression based, however, upon a great ,4eal of informatiun that I was able to gather. I; The subject of municipal institutions was rbrought lioine to me in a very forcible manner . § <;ouple of years ago. A scene was then ifjiiacted before the eyes of the residents of a jfillage ill which I was living, that could |ot fail l(. draw attention in any country of le world, and tha*^ was the cause of my lakiiig diligent euquiiies whether anything liniilar had ever taken place elsewhere in Btiutli Africa. The iiiavor, laying aside the dignity usually biipposed to be attached to his ottice, was seen larking out and directing the construction ^f a broad side-walk and drainage works ^loug liis own property, which was in a situation where those works could be of com- paratively r ' use to the community, while other parts o Jne municipality — the business streets, for instance — which urgently needed the same attention were left neglected. The protests of ratepayers, who believed their properties were being greatly damaged by the undue width of the side-walk being con- structed by the mayor along his own ground, were disregarded, and all requests for an app3al to a public meeting, or an honest and open measurement that would show whether he was encroaching on the rights of others or not, were refused. In spite of petitions and remonstrances, in spite too of the severe com- ments of the press upon such a course of action, the improvement of his own property was carried out by the mayor, and it was completed before his term of office ended, when, as may well be imagined, he did not seek re-election. I suppose any spectator of a scene like this, who had an opportunity of pushing investiga- tion, would endeavour to ascertain whether it wai unique or not, for if such practices were frequent, town governments as at present existing would most certainly be doomed. Municipal government is the school of representative institutions, and as such its purity should be carefully guarded. It differs in form from parliaments, inasmuch as it is not composed of two parties in opposition, ousting each other whenever it is in their power to do so. Party government, whatever drawbacks it may have, provides the most effective machinery that is known for exposing corruption, if it cannot prevent it ; and here municipal government is wanting. Its safe- guards both in Canada and South Africa are supposed to be open deliberations, an in- dependent press, the watchfulness o** rate- payers, and legal provisions that no member of a municipal board shall take part in the discussion of a project in which he is pecuniarily interested. In both the countries of which I am writing are to be found many men incapable of doing anything mean or dishonourable, who regard a pure conscience and a good name as of iaestiinably greater value than gold, and who desire to leave their sons a nobler legacy than houses and lands. Every purC' minded person in South Africa esteems the memory of such men as the late Sir John Molteno, Mr. Charles Fairbridge, Mr. Robert Godloutou, Mr. Saul Solomon, President Brand, Mr. John Samuel, and other well- known colonists whom God had so highly gifted that they could not do a disreputable I i| !! 26 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. act. If all men were as these there -would never be complaints of corruption in municipal government. But unfortunately all are not as these, and neither in South Africa nor in Canada is it possible for the very best men at all times to take part in the government of the towns in which they live. Others are honest and straightforward enough in general business, but their nerves of sensitiveness are less delicately strung. And then there are every- where to be found men of base and sordid minds, ready to cast honour and principle to the wind if only they can increase their wealth without bringing themselves within the meshes of the law. A few — it is well one can say only a few — are so completely without a sense of shame that they disregard pub- licity, and seem to consider that if they can but make money, no matter by what means, they are doing something clever and credit- able. These are the men who bring town governments into disrepute, as they would bring anything else defiled by their contact. In Canada as well as in South Africa com- plaints are frequently made against the mem- bers of municipal boards for doing things which they ought not to do and leaving undone things which they ought to do, but this proves incapacity rather than dishonesty. Then men are often elected by a majority purposely to do something that is displeasing to a minority, and in such cases complaints may be loudly heard without there being any just cause for them. But in Canada, and more especially in Montreal, though every one asserted that no such violation of public decency as in our South African case had ever been known, I heard many tales of councillors being secret contractors for municipal work, of their bestowing favours on their friends, and other corrupt practices. I was informed, on what I have every reason to believe was reliable authority, that in various respects some of the town governments are so far from being pure that there is almost open war between a section of the people striving for honest elections and honest administration and another section — often a majority — striving for nothing but pelf. It is true that petty matters there as elsewhere can be magnified into grave ones, and possibly a good deal that I heard may have been somewhat exaggerated ; but after making a very large allowance, enough and more thau enough remained to convince me that South Africa is far in front of Canada in comparative purity of municipal institutions. In the first named country, with the singit exception of the wretched case already des- cribed, there has been no open disregard ot {)ublic morality, nor has any municipal board ail itself open to the charge of corruption ii money matters, though as much cannot bt said in the matter of favouring friends. Tht country can claim with justice to be fairli pure. Even in the one case, which it wouM be wrong to attempt to ignore, the act was ol an individual, and immediately upon his leaving office an honourable order of proceed- ing was restored by the council. The past could not l:e recalled, the btain remained, but an honest effort was made to minimise as much as possible the damage that had been done. I think, therefore, that this cm should xiot bo allowed to weigh much in a general estimate o^ South African municipal government, and th--it the conclusion I have come to with respect to the comparative con- dition of the two countries need not be dis- turbed by it. CHAPTER V. Canadian and South Afkican Railwats.- CoMPAEisoN OP River Fish. — Joubnei FROM MoNTBEAli TO MoNCTON. — AdVANT- AG.siS OF CONFBDRBATION. — CAUCASIANS ANu Bantu in South Africa. — Want of A Name. From Montreal I travelled by the Canadian Pacific Railway to Moncton in New-Bruns- wick, a distance of five hundred and sixty-eiffbt miles, or nearly twenty hours in time. The train crosses the river St. Lawrence by a a steel cantilever bridge at Lachine, eight or nine miles above the famous Victoria bridge at Montreal. The Victoria bridge is nearly a mile and a half long, and was built for the passage of the Grand Trunk railway to Port- land in the State of Maine. The cantilever bridge of the Canadian Pacific railway is about a mile long, each of its channel spans is four hundred and eight feet wide, and the roadway is high enough to allow of the passage of large steamers below. It was commenced in 1886 and completed in 1887. I only bad a glimpse of it by starlight, for it was twenty minutes to nine in the evening when the train left Montreal. The Canadian Pacific, Grand Trunk, Inter- colonial, and nearly all the other railways in Canada have a gauge of four feet eight and a half inches, and the carriages are much broader and loftier than those in use on the South African lines, where the gauge is only ifcMAt with the singli ase already des^ }en disregard on municipal boani of corruption ii much cannot h Qg friends. Tht ice to be fairlj which it wouW i, the act was oi lately upon his )rder of proceed uncil. The past in remained, but to minimise ai e that had been that this cm eigh much in a frican municipal Diclusion I have comparative cou- need not be dis- V. AN RaILWATS.- FlSH. — JODENEV rCTON. — AOVANT- )N. — Caucasians RICA. — Want of by the Canadian a in New-Bruns- ed and sixty-ei^bt 3 in time. The Lawrence by a Lachine, eight or 3 Victoria bridge bridge is nearly u ras built for the railway to Port- The cantilever acific railway is channel spans is it wide, and the ;o allow of the below. It was tnpleted in 1887. y starlight, for it ! in the evening lid Trunk, Inter- )ther railways in ir feet eight and iages are much >se in use on the iie gauge is only NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. feet six inches. The advantages of the gauge are very considerable in point of and in comfort to travellers, but the Be of construction is of course greater. Canadian passenger carriages are saloons, with a passage down the centre fifteen reversible seats on each side. Btjipi seat accommodates two individuals, so "(a carriage when full hus sixty persons in i'At one end is a lavatory for males, and at I'other one for females, a convenience enables journeys of any length to be without the discomfort that attends tini^lling in carriages in small compartments as those in use in South Africa. Then is greater freedom from annoyance in llfJCanadian carriages. How often is it not "^^case in South Africa that some thought- |or indifferent individual, knowing that he Dt under official inspection, conducts him- so as to be a nuisance to the other OOfjlpauts of the compartment ? Take smok- ii^ifor instance, about which a good deal has blpi heard. In Canada a conductor walks ap and down the central passage, and the fctest order is observed. It is the difference ^l^een society with a police and society 'iiout. Ladies, too, have a feeling of •i||Eirity in travelling that they cannot have il^M>e small compartments, and at the same tiiike there is as much privacy in being one aaiong sixty as in being one among eight. Tbf checking of tickets is also greatly sim- plped, and fraud on short journeys is pMVented to a greater extent than in South j|^ca, though I heard of instances of on the whole to be distributed among seventy- eight hundredths of the contributors. Add to this the increased value of the enormous land grants to the Canadian Pacifi(! and some other companies, which were estimated when made at a dollar (4s, 2d.) an acre, and whicli the companies are now selling at fully four times that amount on an average. With all this, however, the ordinary shares of the Canadian Pacific, and especially of the Graud Trunk, are far below par, for the interest on money borrowed under mortgage has to bi' met before any dividends can be made. There can he little question about tin Canadian Pacific line being a tremendous weight upon the country. It was an enor- mously large undertaking for Canada in her present condition, and it has not drawn the trade between Eastern Asia and Western Europe that was anticipated when it vau con- structed, though the shortest route is across the American continent, and it has a con- siderable advantage in respect of distance over the United States line. The Coinpanv has steamers of the first class plying between Vancouver and ports in Japan and China, but so trifling is the trade that one leaves the t<"r- minus only every four weeks. As matters stand, if the railway yields a profit tlie share- holders }:et it, but if there is a loss tin' country bears it. The line must be kept working. Accordingly everything possible is done by the government to bolster it u|), ainl its interests are allowed to take precedence it all else in the country. Apart from this, the lines have been el immense service. Indeed it is not too muili to say that the rich province of Ontario won 1 1 not be half as wealthy as it is at present aiil the wide prairie lands would not bo occupieil at all, if it were not for them. The Canadian Pacific line is also held to be advantageous for military purposes, and it is a strong tie m 1^- -f. interest on th whole, are ven ry investnu'ats t Hoes that tb to complain )e said on tli^ iven above tlu elongs to till hided, and its injj expenses, S' are higher than Then nfarlv L-apital require! subsidies from il <»()vernmtMit> in a!non<; seventy- itributors. Add f the enormous Paeifie and some estimated when acre, and whieli ig at fully f«»iii irage. With all shares of the ly of the Graud the interest on ;gage has to bi be made, tiou about tlif a tremendous [t was an enor- r Canada in her J not drawn the a and Western when it was con- route is across d it has a con- lect of distaiuf The Compaii} i plyinw between 1 and China, but le leaves the ter- ks. As matter> profit the share- e is a loss the must be kept thing possible is olster it up, ami ke precedence >f Js have been is not too mueli »f Ontario won 11 s at present aiel not be ocoupie The Canadian be advantageous ; is a strong tie ;ii ( HI! < < o &^ o H U o a •— ( V SVVlr 1* < o U o NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 20 Wbding the provinces together. While I was M( Montreal the steamer Numidian arrived mni Liverpool with British troops, who were Ipoceeding in this way to Hong Kong. #Por South Africa the returns of the Cape iKid Natal government railways only are t liable. At the close of 1893 there were of first of these two thousand two hundred li fifty miles open for traffic, constructed at average cost of a little less than .i£9,000 per le. The gross receipts were equal to twelve id four-teuths per cent of the cost of con- uction, and the cost of working and inain- ance was fifty- seven and four-tenths of the eipts, so that these railways returned a lie over five per cent interest upon the ital invested, which compares most favour- ly with the Canadian accounts. ~he Natal government lines are three ndred and niuety-niue miles in length, and t <£1<>,738 per mile for construction. The s8 receipts were equal to nearly seven per tit of the capital invested, and the cost of rking and ttiuintetmnce was sixty-three per i||l|Kit of the grosa receipts, leaving a little over Ipro and a half per cent of the expenditure inwards defraying the interest. This, though much below the returns in the Cape Colony, It. considerably better than the Canadian' ilturns, and there can be no doubt that as the Ibtal lines are further advanced they will Cduce more revenue i)er mile, though their vy gradients may prevent them from com- Mting successfully with the Cape Colonial itbes tor the gold-fields traffic. (,'The question of gradients, I understand, is ||'"very important one. I was informed iu OipaUa that a long detour is considered yMferablo to a steep gradient, that in tact the iPhidient of a line is to be reckoned as the Ipulicnt of the steepest part of it, just as the Sied of a Heet «>f war is the speed of the west sailing Hliip iu it. The rule in the JUbe of railways, however, only holds good up ^a certain distance or length of line, 2|The other South African railways are the therlaiid Company's line from Delagoa y to Johannesburg, with its branches, the ntesville-Chiinoio-line, the Port Nolloth- bkiep Vnw, the (irahamstowii-Kowie line, Worcester-Ashton line, and the Capetown- n Point line, of none of which have 1 the isite data to form a comparihou. lien I awoke the next morning after ving Mcmtreal, the train was passing along liain of lakes in the Htatt* of Maine. The urt line, as it is termed, between Montreal d Si. John runs almost in a straight line mtii, tu)4 pasiMNi (or a pi>rtion of the distance through United States territory, which here intrudes like a wedge between the provinces of Quebec and New Biunswick, There is an alternative route, entirely on British soil, nameily down the left bank of the St. Lawrence to Quebec, and then from Levis on the other side of the river by the Inter- colonial line ; but it is much longer. The lake scenery is pretty even in autumn, and iu summer it must be charming. In winter these great sheets of water are covered with ice, over which skaters glide from bank to bank, and the hills and vallevs around them are all white with snow. Some of the passengers were talking enthusiastically of the trout fishing in this part of the country, indeed I was told by one who professed to have thrown flies over half the streams in the continent that it is even better than in gome waters I loved to visit for that purpose when I was a boy ; but I have a doubt about that, if quality and nut mere quantity be the test. I once knew a sheet of water easily reached by foot from St. John, and if the trout in it now are worthy descend* ants of those that were there nearly half a century ago, it would be difficult, I think, to find any to surpass them. There are plenty of these fish in all the lakes, I have no doubt, but the trout that frequent running streams are much the finer. South African streams are poorly supplied with fish compared with the rivers of Canada. There are huge barbels and great vellow-fish in the inland waters, and eels in tiie streams that flow into the Indian ocean, but beyond these and the Httle gillimintjes there ia nothing. The barbels and the yellow-fish are eaten for want of something better, but they are poor substitutes for the salmon and trout and perch, to say nothing of other species which abound in the Dominion streams. It is much to be hoped that the attempt now being made to acclimatise the trout in South Africa will be successful. Mr. Maclean, who is an enthusiast iu the matter, informs me that there is no doubt about it, and he certainly has some maguificeut three-year-olds to show as Hpeciineus. But whether the fish will thrive permanently iu water as warm as that of South African streams has yet to be proved. The other difficulty — that of freshets — is less to be feared, for the trout are able to withstand the tremendous rush of water to the sea when the ice and snow melt suddtuly in the Canadian spring. As we steamed onward, saw- mills and stacks of luiiilH>r were frequently ,in sight, ati were aI«o villages, large And amull, all built ot 30 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. HI!S •IP wood. At Vanceboro, on the river St. Croix, the train entered the province of New Brunswick. Continuing through Hcenery that may be called pretty, but cannot be termed grand, the right bank of the St. John was reached not many miles from the sea, for the river and the railway run at a right angle,, and of course the majestic views which have given the St. John the title of the Rhine of America are lost to the traveller by train. Not altogether though, for even in tliose few miles there is something worth seeing. A stream so broad as to look like a lake, with farms and villages and forests intermingled on its shore i, with deep bays where the lumbermen ply their craft, and with the tributary of the Kenabeekasis flowing in from the opposite side : one might be satisfied to look on a picture like that. And then the broad river, suddenly narrowing to only five hundred feet, passes through a gigantic cleft in a barrier of rock, and expands with a curve into a harbour below. There is something in that cleft that is worth seeing too. Spanning it are two splendid bridges : the one higher up a canti- lever bridge, by means of which the Canadian Pacific railway crosses the river, the other a suspension bridge, over which the ordinary traffic passes l)etween the city of St. John on the western and Carleton on the eastern bank. Standing on the suspension bridge and looking into the chasm Iwlow, one sees four times in every twenty-four hours a ribbon of rater smooth as glass, with river steamers and barges and sailing craft passing up and down. Twice in every twenty-four hours one sees a rushing, surging mass of water, which no vessel ever built could stem for a moment, forcing its way down to the sea. And again twice in every twenty-four hours the scene changes. The boiling, eddying, seething itream is there, but it is now whirling in just the opposite direction. The cause is this. The tides on the lower Canadian coast have a rise and fall of about thirty feet — (mark, please, the provision of the Great Architect tor keeping the harbours of Halifax and St. John open throughout the winter), — and the level of the river is the mean between high and low water. At high tide, consequently, there is a fall of fifteen feet in that Hhort gorge in one direction, and at low tide a fall of fifteen feet in the othe , wliile at half tides there is no current in either direction. There are some scenes that never pall «pon the eye, no matter how often one gazes upon them. The lordly, thought- inspiring view of Table Mouotain from Bondsbosob ia th« Cap« is one. The gorge of the St. John in Canada, though of a totally different . character, is another. I have never been able to ascertain with certainty who it was that first named the remarkable cleft through which the Umzim. vubu river pours its waters into the Indian ocean the Oates of St. John. Was it perhaps some Canadian who had seen how the Rhine of America meets the sea, and who thought its nearest counterpart in South Africa worthy of the same name r* If not, the coincidence ii somewhat remarkable. At St. John the Canadian Pacific Company's roadway ends. The original idea was that its western terminus should be Montreal, leavinif the Intercolonial to meet the requirements of the country east of the St. Lawrence, and the short line through the State of Maine wan quite an afterthought. But having got to St. John it was certainly necessary to go on to Halifax, and so running powers for iti trains were obtained on the Intercolonial line, From the carriage windows I could see nothing to bring home to me that I was io my native city. Everything wore a straiifre aspect. The river was not in view, and an 1 ascertained afterwards, the railway station was built on a site that was a sheet of water — known as Hersey's Pond — when I had seen it last. I was glad that the train did not remain long, for a feeling of bewilderment i» anything but pleasant. In a few minutes wu were steaming away again, now in a north- easterly direction, at no great distance from the shore of the Bay of Fundy. The country here is in general tame in appearance, though picturesque situations are not wanting. It Ih divided into small farms, and vilUges of no great size are sctattered at distant intervals along the line. It was almost dark whun Moncton was reached. I stepped out of the train, presented my counters at the van, and received my luggage. A good many others were doing the same, and some passengers were going on board, so that there was the usual bustle of a railway station on such au occasion. I did not notice a group walkini; along the platform, wistfully examining the disembarking travellers, until I heard a laara Bho cte mi NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 81 I the St. John ally different Srscertain with st Darned the li the Uinzim. to the Indian Vas it perhaps how the Rhine . who thought Africa worthy coiDcidence \t :ific Company's ia was that its iDtreal, leaving ■quirementg of rrence, and the of Maine was haviag got to luary to go on powers for its l^rcolonial line, a I could see ! that I was in trore a stran^re view, and aH I ailway station , sheet of water ten I had seen train did not ewildertnent is lew minutes we in a north* distance fruiu The country arance, though wanting. It is villages of no tant intervals ■t dark when ed out of the the van, and many others tne passengers there was the >n on such au Ijroup walking' examining tlie heard a latly as 4 he noticed a gentleman me by namt*. dred. acu which was •ek.i, and from »rent directions g ak'o, I shall made upon me conversations with Canadians up to this le. lln the olden days, when the provinces were parate and not always over friendly towards ch other, the minds of the people were con- cted, and their political views were often tremely small. The county elections used turn upon the most trivial things. Con- leration into one Dominion has had a sur- ising effect upon the inhabitants of the intry, inasmuch as it has enlarged their eas, and given them subjects to think of it never entered their brains before. [Materially too the confederation of the evinces has had a most beneficial effect, rithout it large public works could not ^ve been undertaken, without it men Duld be pulling in different directions linst each other, with it all try to- It her for the common welfare. There are ties indeed, two great parties of which I ill have somewhat to say in another chapter, ^t both are striving for the progress of one imon country. There are not twenty little lues in a few disjointed provinces. It is in very truth an enormous advautage which Canada possesses over South Africa, in Ipving but one government over nearly the fihole country, though each province has the MDtrol of purely local affairs. Excepting Alaska in the north-west, which belongs to tlte United States, the little islets of St. Pierre •ad Miquelon below Newfoundland, which Mong to France, and the island of New- iMindland, with a little strip of the Labrador Mftst, which is a separate British colony, tllnry inch of ground between t outer- ')Bt Atlantic shore and the farthesr Pacific st is subject to the Dominion government, every individual in that wide expanse of flfritory has interests in common with every vlFar different is it in South Africa. There Wb the Cape Colony and Natal, each under jj|e British flag and each with responsible (tofornment but with hardly an idea in t^mou. There is British Bechuanaland, lUed by the crown without representative Sititutious, a territory, however, which it is pod will soon Im) annexed to the Cape Colony. leve is the British Protectorat«>, in which tlilite iteople are governed by the crown of S gland and black people are subject to native efs. There is the Chartered Company's ritorv. with an administration of its own. lere is Basutoland, in which European Icials appointed by the crown of Englaud ^ trying to exert some moral inHuence, but iftiere a native chief is the real authority. « There is the Orange Free State, a well governed republic, in full accord with all that tends to the advancement of the country as a whole. There is the Transvaal or South African Republic, in a state of almost complete isola- tion as far as regards its government. There is the German Protectorate, with a distinct policy of its own, regardless of the remainder of South Africa. There is the Portuguese territory, hardly ruled at all, with native tribes in it practically iudefiendent. To make a really great country, all of these states and territories — or at least most of them — must be brought under one government for general purposes, but when and how can this be done? Who can say ? This anyone can observe, with that far seeing governor Sir George Grey, that the European race has no guarantee of being permanently on South African, as it is on Canadian soil. Look around and reflect. Great as the increase of white people has been of late years, the increase of the blacks has been enormously greater. Look at the districts of Alexandria, Bathurst, Albany, and all to the eastward in the Cape Colony, look at Zoutpansberg in the Transvaal, at Natal, and at a dozen other localities, and think where will the white man find himself a century hence if there is not a very large immigration. Swept away — at least from the open country — by the sheer passive force of the amazingly prolific Bantu people. If a leader of iufluence were to arise among them even to-day and teach them their strength and how to use it for their own ends, there are many districts in South Africa in which such land difficulties as have already been experienced to a slight extent would be felt in a tvufold aggravated form, How will it be when the Bantu are three or four times as numerous as they are now ? Let it be remembered that there is nothing to check their increase anywhere since the destruction of the Matabele power, and that in most instances the extension of European rule does not mean an extension of European settlement. Surely Africa south of the Zainliesi needs one strong government, with one bvatem of treat- ing the uuprogressive portion of its inhabi- tants, and with one determined will to maintain the supremacy of Caucasian civilisa- tion. And yei there are no fewer than ten distinct governments in it. A noticeable advantage iha^. Canada has, though of course only a trivial one compared with the foregoing, is in her name. Every one living on her soil is a Canadian, he is proud of being one, and is ready to raMy at the sound. A ihort, expressive, euphouiout jpr NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA- word is sadly n^ded to signify every European or individual of European descent living in Africa south of the Zambesi. Afrikander has been tried, but it never has been, and never will be, generally accepted. It is not sufficiently distinctive, and besides the corresponding word for the country — Afrikanderland— is clumsy and ill sounding to the last degree. Canada, Canadian ; Australia, Australian ; he will be a public benefactor who can invent corresponding suitable words for the South African land ahd its civilised inhabitants. M CHAPTER VI. ONCTON. PUBLICLIBRABIES.COM- PAEATIVE COST OF LIVING IN CaNADA AND South Africa. Political Parties. Protec- , tion versus Free i Trade. Public • Debts. Export of ^ Farm Produce. The town of Moncton is situated on the left bank of the Petitcodiac river, where it makes a sharp turn about thirty-eight or forty miles above its tnoutb. The stream, which is hiire nearly five hundred yards wide, is naviga- ble for lp"Tre vessels upward from the bay of Fundy. The lush of the incoming tide, especially at full aud new moon, is often a pretty sighi, as crested waves three or four feet high spread over the placid water of tlie river. Otherwise the Petitcodiac, flowing through a comparatively flat country, with its muddy banks fringed with marsh lands, has no pretensions to beauty. I had passed through Monctun — then usually called The Bend of the Petitcodiac — several times when I was u schoolboy, but in those days it was a mere hamlet, with no other industries than agriculture and sbinbuilding. At that time mauv wooden vessels, some of large size, wer»' built every year in the maritime provinces of Canada, and sent to England for sale. I have seen several of the faniuus clipper ships that sailed Iwtween England aud Austra- lia in the vears of the gold rush launched on the St. John. That industry luw now almost disappeared, as iron has taken the place of wood, and the only vessels built in Canadu at present are coasters and fishing craft of small burden. Moncton in 1895 is a town of about eif,'lit thousand inhabitants. It contains workshops of the intercolonial railway, a sugar refint'r\ a cotton factory, a blanket and woollen cloth factory, a plough and stove foundry, two door and sash factories, and a large mill for griiul iug maize. To a considerable extent it owt^ its existence to the protective tariff under which the manufacturing industry of tk country was built up, a statement which applie» to a great many towns in Canada. A few ot the largest buildings in it are of stone or brick, but the dwelling-houses and all tht churches except two are of wood. The iiouses in general are neat, many of them being taste- fully ornamented and painted. Some are warmed in . !nter by means of furnaces and hot air pipes, others by means of self-regulatiui; stoves, in which the fuel needs to l)e replenished only once in twenty-four hours. There is au aspect of moderate prosperity about the town, and its inhabitants enjoy their full share ot comfort. The photographs of several of it> streets will convey a more faithful impression of what a Canadian town is like than u selection of notable buildings in various pliie"> would do, and therefore they are given in tlii> and other chapters. There are in Moucton a variety of churches, namely one Roman Catholic, one Anglicau, one Reformed Episcopal, one Presbyteriau. two Wesleyan, and two Baptist. The last- named is the strongest denomination in poiii; of number. The Young Men's Christian Assi- ciation has a fine building, there is a faiih good opera house, and there is also a hall where concerts, lectures, or assemblages of auv kind can take place. But there is neither., public library nor a museum. The govern meut ap]>ears to act on the principle tliat u education is needed after leaving scthool. 1 must not be inferred from the absence "'■ public libraries in the smaller Canadian to^Ml^ however, that the people are not given to read ing, for in point of fact that is not the ea.s< J believe they buy far more books than Soiil Africans do. But they read at home, aii^ seem content to be without the great advaii tages which a good public library aft'(>r(l> Pel haps the climate has something to f self -regulat ills; to l)e replenisbeil ■s. There is an about the town, sir full shart' ot )t several ol" it- thful impression is like than a in various pliio'^ are given in tins •iety of churches, ;, one Angliciin, ,| lie Presbyteriau, t)ti8t. The last- liuatiou in point s Christian Asso. there is a fairlv re is also a hali semblages of aiiv iiere is neither a m. The goveiii principle that u living school. I I the absence "' • Canadian towns not given to reail is not the tasi )ooks than Smili id at home, an the great advaii ; library afforil> U'thiug to do will euings, by niaii yable part of tii s in Canada, an iionsly dispoc''!' < < o O sz; o Eh < o O < QQ M Pi U o O STifKK'I'S IN MoNClnN, CANAhV NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 88 There is no season in South Africa to cor- respond with this. From the beginning to the end of the year people go from home whenever they will, and so the government wisely tries to direct them to reading rooms. It con- tributes as much as is raised in any locality towards the establishment and maintenance of a public library, thus there is not a village of any note in the country without a collection of works of reference free for use by every one, though in many cases the collection is very limited, and in all cases the greater number of the shelves are occupied by books of fiction. In this respect South Africa is far in advance of Canada. I am writing from the point of view of the people at large, from an author's point of view the Canadian system may be the best, as where public libraries exist a single copy of a work suflBces for all the people of a town. Salaries in Moncton, as indeed generally in Canada, are smaller than in South Africa, and the wages of artisans are a trifle less, but domestic labourers, when they can be obtained at all, command as good pay as Europeans of the same class in Capetown. The expense of living is considerably less. House rent in Monc- ton is from one-third to one-half what it is in the Cape peninsula, owing chiefly to the small cost of wooden buildings as compared with stone and brick. Clothing taken all round is perhaps five to ten per cent cheaper. Fuel and provisions are also in general lower in price, as the following comparative list will show. In Moneton. In Capetown. Flour, per 100 lbs. ... 5 5 to 10,5 10- to 18 - Beef and Mutton, per lb. 2^(1. to Oil. 5d. to 9d. Hams, per lb Od. to 8d. 1- to Iji Ducks and Hens, each .. lOd. to 1/3 11 to 3- Gocse, each 1 !» to 2 6 2,9 to 4 - Ekbs, per dozen 5d. to 1/- 1- to 20 Butter, per lb. ... ... 9d. to lid. 1/- to 2- Cheese, per lb. ... ... 6d. to 9d. 1/- to 1,0 Potatoes, per bushel ... 1/3 to 2,- 1/8 to 4,0 Onions, jior bushel .. 2/- to 3,- 2;3 to 4,'- Other ve^etablea about the same in both places. Fish abouthalt' as dear in Monc- ton as in Capetown. Apples, per tiuahol ... 2 1 to 5 4 fully double. Oysters, piT bushel Coal, per ton Firewuod 3,4 to 5- rarely ob- tainable. 12 to 25 - 45- to 00,- about one-third as dear in Moncton as in Capetown. I do not think there is much difference in the style of iiviug in Canadian and South African towns, for Europeans everywhere are much alike in this respect. Take King- williamstown, for instance, its social life is about the same as the social life in Moncton, except that domestic labour being rarely pro- curable in the last named place people of erery calling are obliged to do many things for themselves, which in Kingwilliamstown are done by coloured servants. But no one seems put about by this, for all — tie wealthiest as well as those of moderate means — are accus- tomed to it, and to be busy is more respectable than to be idle. If the last clause does not apply with equal force to white people in South Africa, it is because of the different condition of things which the presence of the coloured population has brought about. While I was in Moncton some of the leaders of the two political parties came there on a stumping tour, that is getting together meet- ings, making speeches, and receiving promises of support. The representatives of the party in power came first, and were followed a couple of weeks later by their opponents. There is a sharp line of cleavage between them, the line between protection of home industries and free trade, and there are several other differ- ences, but all more or less connected with this great question. The liberal-conservative or tory speakers at the public meeting in Moncton were the honourable N. Clarke Wallace, controller of customs, the honourable Joseph Alderic Ouiniet, minister of public works, Sir Charles Hibi)ert Tupper, minister of marine and fish- eries, the honourable P. E. le Blanc, speaker of tiie Quebec provincial legislature, Mr. Joseph G. H. Bergeron, deputy speaker of the house of commons, and Mr. Josiah Wood, member of the house of commons for the county of Westmorland. The opera house was decorated for the occasion, and a great scroll above the {)latform announced that the effects of the iberal-conservative administration were that Canadian securities were selling at four to four and a half per cent premium. I was invited to take a seat ou the platform, but felt that it would be out of place for me to do so, and therefore declined. I occupied a very good position, however, for hearing all that was said. Some of the speakers were eloquent, but not more so than several of the public men of South Africa, and one at least was almost intolerably dull. Perhaps Sir Hibbert Tupper was the most fluent in tongue of them all, and he was certainly very well received, but to my mind his address was spoiled by the tone of his remarks concerning his opponents, which can only be described as abusive. Some of the speeches were in French. To my shame I must confess that I, who ought to be almost as conversant with that language as with Euglish, was unable to follow these speakers entirely. I have beoome so V S4 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. i I ll thorougbly a South African that Dutch is with me the next most familiar tongue to my own. and I can barely read a French book. So I sat there realising to its fullest extent the fact that I had lest my Canadian nationality, and just picking up suificient of the speeches to know that they were similar to those given in English. The stock arguments in favour of a policy of protection of manufactures were used, and it was claimed by the speakers that Canada had made immense strides in population and in wealth under a tariff that keeps out articles which can be made in the country. They maintained that with free trade such progress would have been impossible. They pointed to England, and asked if free trade in provisions had not ruined her agriculture, while they discreetly avoided any reference to her manu- factures and the necessity for cheap food if these are to be kept in existence. They wanted to build up a great nation, they said, a nation which would be part of the mighty people living under the British sovereign and the British flag, but still in itself strong and self- contained. With protection factories could exist all over the land, and if the farmers had to pay a trifle more for home-made than for imported duty free clothing, they were amply compensated by the markets for their produce which were created at their very doors by the high tariff. " The National Policy " was their motto, they declared, and they dwelt upon its advantages and overlooked all its dangers. They admitted free of duty, they said, every de8cri]ption of raw article needed for manu- facturing purposes which could eithc. not be produced at all or in in8u£':!ient quantities in Canada, such as cotton, indiarubber, wool, and unrefined sugar, and such articles of general use as tea and coffee, the products of a warmer clime. If therefore an average was drawn, it would be found that their customs duties were in reality very little higher than those levied merely for revenue purposes by the grit government, which was in power from Novem- ber 1873 to October 1878. They claimed that by their policy of protecting home industries the number of men employed in manufactures in the Dominion was increased in ten years by one hundred and twenty-seven thousand. They had carried out vast public works too, and that without increasing the public debt iu anything near the proportion that the grits had increased it. In the five years that their opponents were in power more than eight million pounds sterling was added to the debt, and what was there to show for that large amount of money ? They, the liberal-con- servatives, on the other hand, had in the last year alone constructed public works to the value of three and a half million pounds ster- ling. And they had not effected this either by means of excessive taxation, they had done it simply by avoiding useless expenditure of all kinds, and seeing that for every dollar laid out in any way a dollar's worth was received. The public debt was at present .^£5 1,250,000: what would it not have been if the grits had been in ofiice since 1878 ? Between the date of this meeting and that of the liberals, which took place just a fortnight later, I had opportunities of ascertaining the opinions of a good many intelligent men upon the subject of protection versus free trade. Some were thorough liberal-conservatives, and believed in their very hearts that the national policy, as they termed it, would be the means of building up a Canada as colossal in wealth and power as in geographical dimensions. Others were ardent free traders, believing that it would be safer to liave a small popu- lation secure from sudden reverses than a large population subject to disastrous shocks. They held that the United States could at any time arrange a tariff that would ruin Canadian manufactures based upon protection. There we'^e others still who looked askance upon the national policy, but who intended to support the liberal-conservatives at the polls. Why so ? I asked. Because a reversion to free trade would follow if the grits came into power, and what would then become of the enormous amount of capital invested in factories and of tluise hundred and twenty-seven thousand men tliat we have added in ten years to our manu- facturing population ? they replied. Then if you once enter on a system of pro- tection, you cannot retrace your steps ? It would be extremely dangerous to try to do so in Canada, they said. I inquired if the figures given at the meeting could be depended upon as accurate, and was informed that they could be. One of my friends undertook to obtain a copy of the audited oflScial returns of the public debt for me, and when I received it I ascertained that the debt had been increased by ^68,440,335, or at the rate of .£1,688,067 a year while the grits were in power, and by ij21, 108,119, or at the rate of .£1,407,207 a year during the period-^1878 to 1893— that the tories had been iu oflice. The total amount of the debt in 1893 was ^£62,511,276, but tl»e government had money out on loan and other assets of the same nature to the amount of j£l2,161,143, so iberal-con- iD the last ks to the unds ster- s either by id done it uro of all ar laid out ived. The )00: what ad been in r and that . fortnight ininGT the men upon ree trade, tives, and s national he means in wealth lions, believing lall popu- an a large ks. They any time Canadian 1 askance tended to the polls. ie would md what 9 amount of those men tliat ir maiiii- i of pro- try to i meeting and was e of my r of the debt for ined that iO,335, or irhile the «,119, or ring the ries had the debt rerniuent its of the 1.143,80 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. tl that the net debt was ,£50,350,133, and in November 1894 was as stated by the speakers. It is impossible to compare the public debt of Canada with that of the Cape Col .., and Natal, because two individuals cau hardly be found to agree as to how the coloured people of South Africa should be rated. Leaving them out altogether, the debt amounts in Natal to ^£163, in the Cape Colony to ^£71, and in Canada to ^glOi per individual colonist. But the coloured people of a great part of the Cape Colony at least must count for some- thing in apportioning the debt, and here and also in Natal the railroads are public property and form an offset, so that anything like an estimate not liable to be disputed is out of the question. A fortnight after the tory meeting the liberal or grit « rators arrived, and the opera house in Moncton was again filled with an at- tentive audience. The honourable Wilfred Laurier, member of the commons for East Quebec, is the leader of the liberal party, anrl has the reputation of being the best public speaker in Canada. I was sorry that he was not present, but the man who stands second only to him on the liberal side, Mr. Louis Davies, member of the commons for a constituency in Prince Edward Island, was there. Several others addressed the meeting, among them the honourable Henry R. Emmersou, one of the members for Albert county in the provincial legislative assembly of New Brunswick, but Mr. Davies was far above them all in fluency of speech and power of reasoning. He put the free trade case before his audience in powerful language as the only policy of safety for Canada. He did not abuse his opponents, as Sir Hibbert Tupper had done, but he held their views to be incorrect. Under a system of free trade, or trade upon which duties were levied only for revenue purposes, the great natural resources of Canada would be develoijed. She could produce many things iietter and cheaper than <)ther countries, and the attention of her people should be directed to these, rather than to manufactures which had to be bolstered up to maintain a precarious existence. The other speakers brought forward all the mistakes of the tories since they came into power in October 1878, and they had a great deal to say about the wonderful progress of England in wealth under a system of free trade, but omitted to add that England's greatness was built upon protection, that but for the Navigation Act — the most protective measure ever known — she could not ha^e risen to be the first commercial power of the world. They be'ieved, they said, that agriculture, manufactures, and commerce were the great pillars of national prosperity, and that all of these throve best when left most free to indi- vidual enterprise, without state interference of any kind. It seemed to me that there was a want of thoroughness in their arguments, and I left the opera house convinced that if the liberal or grit party gained any adherents that evening, it was through what fell from Mr. Davies' lips, not from what any one else said. The newspapers, of course, made as much capital as possible out of the meetings, and leading articles and short paragraphs were de- voted to them for several days afterwards. Some of the comments were humorous, and a few were coarse, but most were plain expres- sions of the writers' views. The skits were numerous. I regret that I neglected to pre- serve any, so I cannot quote them verbatim, but 1 think I can give from memory the fol- lowing, at any rate approximately : A TOKT VISION OF GREATNESS. — It has bccn discovered that figs can be grown in Canada (in hothouses at considerable cost), and there is no doubt that the taste of the children can be cultivated to eat them in large quantities. By imposing a duty of say five hundred per cent upon the imported article therefore, a large number of people can be employed in fig growing. The fig growers will purchase bicycles fur themselves and skipping ropes for their little girls, and thus two other important industries will be maintained. The bicycle and skipping rope makers will require supplies from the farmers, and a general round of in- creased prosperity will result. The geit ideal of prosperity. — Cheap clothing from over the border (and people too poor to buy it). In South Africa parties are not divided on the quvistion of free trade or protection for manu- facturing indui^tries, aiid indeed that question never can assume the same magnitude here as in Canada. With a large coloured population manufactures un an extensive scale are not possible. In saying this I am only saying what the expe>''pnce of other countries has proved, and 'vhat the exercise of a little reason would lead anyone to conclude. The black man must go through the training that the white man has had, before his eye or his hand or his brain will lie adapted for unvthuig but the coarsest work. And who ciin nmv Imw mail) geutrutntus will be needed iwr that training ? It is unfair to him to expect that he can almost at once take a place beside the NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. man whose ancestors have been under the severest discipline for untold centuries, and then to abuse nim because he does not do so. Justice and common sense require that he should be regarded as what his line of descent has made him. Those who know him best and are really well disposed towards him do not attempt to force him into a position for which he is altogether unfit, and those who do not take the trouble to study his nature and his powers soon find that the effort to push him on too rapidly invariably ends in failure. There are a few black men in South Africa capable of doing almost anything, but the vast majority could no more be trained to work in a cotton mill or a cloth factory than to act as architects for a building like Westminster Abbey. It is this fact that causes our country to be so different from the other great British colonies. We are unable to introduce work- people from England to carry on manufactures, as Canada and Australia can, for the wbite man will not and cannot labour beside the black man on equal terms, and the black man is here and must be dealt with. It is not prejudice against colour that causes inability to fraternise, it is the same feeling as that which prevents a first-class artisan from associating in a workshop with untrained men of his own race : in both cases the individual with knowledge and skill must have authority over the others, or all self respect is lost. The circumstances of this country are against a national policy like that of Canada, though we have a national policy of our own. We believe it to be our interest to encourage agriculture, and so heavy duties are imposed upon breadstuffs and meat coming over the sea. Because we, with crude labour requiring constant supervision, cannot produce wheat for less than double what pays the Canadian or Australian farmer, home-grown wheat is protected. Because we cannot sell South African mutton in Capetown for what pays the Australian sheep farmer to send frozen meat to us, a duty of twopence a pound is levied at our ports. And with ub instinctively the proportion of protectionists to free traders in food is vastly greater than the proportion in Canada of protectionists to free traders in manufactured articles. An argument used by Mr. Davies and his associates in their speeches at Moncton was that protection of manufactures was a tax upon agriculture, inasmuch as the farmer had to pay more for everything that he required to purchase than he would have to pay under a system of free trade. Bemove protection, they said, and the quantity of food grown and exported would vastly increase and the com- merce of the country would swell in proportion. Whether this argument is sound or not, the present export of farm produce from Canada IS certainly large. I give the ofiicial returns for 1893 to show what it amounts to, and beside them I place the returns for South Africa through the ports of the Cape Colony and Natal for the same vear, in order thit thev can be easily compared. As Canada joins the United States, it often happens that at one part of the border produce is sent northward for sale, and at another part it is sent south- ward. In the figures given below I have allowed for this, by deducting from the total export of each article the quantity imported from the United States, and thus showing the actual value of the farm produce of Canada over and above the consumption of her own people. For tlie same reason I have deducted the Natal produce sent to the Cape Colony, and give only what South Africa as a whole sends abroad. Aloes Arifol Bacon, Hams, and Pork Butter Cheese Eggs Feathers, Ostrich ... Flour, Meal, and Bran Flowers, Dried Fruit Hair, Angora Hay Hides, Skins, and Horns Hogs Horned Cattle Horses Lard and Tallow Peas and Beans Potatoes Poultry... ; Sheep ... Tinned and Salted Meat Wheat and other Grain Wine Wool, Sheep's Uanada. 354,9»1 260,45't 2,788,856 178,086 464,386 690,504 299,734 30,331 1,609,301 288,105 4,618 603,429 80,081 11,198 240,927 162,350 2,055,481 South Africa, .£ 9,622 1,591 461,873 21,336 7,223 557,454 557,444 18,964 2,372,178 Total Farm Produce exported . . . 10,022,775 4,007,685 CHAPTER VII. CocAiGNE. The Canadian and South Afri- can Public School Systems. The first excursion which I made from Moncton was to Cocaigne, a mixed French and English settlement on a harbour open- ing into the Straits of Northumberland. If that harbour was on the South African coast it would be of great value, but in rn and le com- 1.591 < o H O Iz; o (>^' i-t < t— I O iz; H Eh O CQ O o » w P3 1^ cq O 1^ my scat Uni the NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. i^ Canada secure havens are too commou to be much regarded, and Cocaigne is seldom used as a shipping port. The harbour is a deep inlet, with an island in its mouth and a river running into the head of the curve. It is not an attractive place. In midsummer the heat is often intense, and in winter, unsheltered by hill or forest, it lies open to winds which sweep down from the north over great fields of ice, causing the cold to be felt in its utmost severity. Back from the road which runs along the shore stretch the long narrow farms of about a hundred acres each, such as were allotted to the early French settlers under a system of occupation which has not yet been improved upon. At this place half a century ago there was a school of some celebrity in the province, termed the Cocaigne Academy, which it was my fate to attend for four years. My visit was thus for the purpose of hunting up old class- mates among the resident families, and of seeing what changes time had brought about in the locality. It was the only place in Canada where I did not see any marked im- provement. The forest that I remembered as coming down to the river's edge and clothing the whole country to within a mile of the shore of the Strait was gone, but there were very few houses on the bare bleak farms where it had stood. There was not a vestige of a saw mill or a dam or a shipyard left. The timber trade had vanished, as it has done from muny other parts of the country on which were once forests believed to be inexhaustible. Even the adjoining sea was less profitable than in olden times. Oysters and lobsters, once in the greatest plenty, were now so scarce, owing to the vast quantities that had been exported to England, that the tinning establishments were closed. Farming alone remained, and for that the condition of things was less favour- able than in other parts of the province. The result was that young English speaking people moved away, though tlie habitaus remained, and to-day the population is not greater than it was fifty years ago, but it is much more largely French. The most considerable change noticeable is a new and more commodious Koman Catholic church, standing close by the old one which has fallen into decay. There were only two of my old schoolmates left in the place, and one of these was away from home. From the other I learned the history of many of those who had once been my companions, and who were afterwards scattered far and wide over Canada and the United States. Of the old residents, many of the names even had died out. The Cocaigne Academy had long since disappeared, and in its stead was a school under the modern system, an improvement so great that the young people of the present day can hardly realise it. A large portion of tny life in South Africa having been occupied in teaching, the school system of Canada was one of the subjects which I was desii'ous of comparing with that of the Cape Colony, and I wanted also to be able to compare that system now with what it was half a century ago. For this purpose I made the acquaintance of the superintendents general of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, from both of whom I received much inform- ation, I visited a number of schools and watched the routine, and I collected a con- siderable quantity of reports, regulations, manuals, and books in use. Let us look first at the Cocaigne Academy, a good specimen of a Canadian public school — reganled as of the first class — in the olden time. The building, erected by public sub- scription, stood close to the shore, at one end of the long wooden bridge that spauned the river at its mouth, so as to be in a central {)08iti(>n. All the classes were taught in one large room, which was warmed in winter by an immense stove in the centre, round which the desks were ranged. The principal was the reverend Alfred Horatio Weeks, a clergy- man of the church of England, and the assistant, or usher as he was termed, was Mr. David Miller, a layman. The government did not contribute anything to the support of the institution, which was maintained entirely by school fees and by subscriptions guaranteed in case the fees fell short. The hours of attendance were from 9 to 4, with an hour for lunch, except on Saturdays, when the school closed at 1. The holidays were about half as long as those at present given. The discipline was cruelly severe. The reverend principal was conscientious, and as he really believed that to spare the rod was to spoil the child, he tried to do his duty regardless of his muscles. I asked my old classmate if he remembered the punishment intlicted on a particultr occa- sion upon several boys for what would now be regarded as a very trifling fault. J have need to, he replied, and baring one of his wrists he showed me a large mark which he has borne ever since as the result of it. Yet the reverend principal was not naturally a cruel man. He was a very strict disciplin- arian, but be could say kind words and act generously enough outside the schoolhouse. He made me a present of a pair of skates once, so, in spite of the drubbings I received, I have 88 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. a warm place iu my memory for bim. He was still living, thouf^h at a very advanced age, a widower, and childless, when I was in Canada, but I had not time to visit the part of the province where he was then residing, and shortly after my return to London I received intelligence of his death. The school being a place of terror, it was a natural result that no rne went to it of his own free will. If a boy did not know his lessons, he would argue he might as well play truant for the day, as the punishment for the one offence would be no worse than for the other. And there was frequently a strong temptation to play truant, even when a boy could repeat his home task, but knew he would likely be belaboured for something else. In the spring time a habitant was making maple sugar only half-a-dozen miles up the river, and it would be so nice to help carry the little bark dishes of sap from the trees to the' boiler, and get a block when it was taken from the mould. Or later the wild strawberiies— the delicious wild strawberries of Canada— were ripening in some warm locality, and each boy thought he would like to be the first to eat them. And then as the season advanced there were the wild rasp- berries and the blueberries in the newly burnt clearings on the border of the forest, aiul later still the hazel nuts on the island, all powerful magnets for schoolboys dreading the reverend principal's cane. Or a report would pass round that the fishing was particularly good in a certain stream, or that a big wolf had been trapped by somebody, or a schooner was to be launched, or in winter the river and the har- bour would be one great sheet of ice inviting races on skates ; with these on one side and the rod on the other, the pupiU of the Couaigne Academy oftt-u turned away from the path that led to knowledge. One day — it was the 3rd of November 1847 — four boys were standing on the bridge watching great clouds of wahwahs and wild ducks of other kinds that were on the wiug from the north towards warmer latitudes, knowing by iiiniuct that winter was approach- ing. The oldest of the four had a gun, but somehow the Hocks all took a course that led away from the bridge, and he had no chance of testing bis skill. A liglii canoe was fastened to one uf the |)iers, so, tired of waiting, three of the boys jumped in, and with two of them paddling aud the other holding the gun in readiness, shot out into the harbour to a spot that the birds were passing over. The chance came, but the gun recoiled, and with even so slight a shock the canoe turned over. The water was so uuld that to swim very far was impossible. One of the boys who clung to the canoe was saved, the corpse of the one who had the gun was found that night just where the accident took place, and the body of the other was recovered nearer the shore. The effect of this sudden death of two of the brightest boys in the school was felt long afterwards. One day there was a violent storm. The north-west wind in its fury swept over the Strait, and piled the water in Cocaigne har- bour higher than had ever been known before. The moon was full, and under ordinary circum- stances the tide line would have been within a few feet of the schoolhouse, but now the water surrounded the lonely building, great waves came rolling in before the gusts to dash against th i outer wall of wood, a nd soon the place was a wreck, to the intense delight of every boy that saw it. But our mutual congratulations were soon over. A gentleman who lived closw to the other end of the bridge, and who had a number of ions, offered a wiug of his house, and in a few days the school was opened again. I have yet to de8cril)e the method of teach- ing, and to enumerate the subjects taught. The usher took spelling, reading, geography, arithmetic, what was called philosophy, and once a week French. Only once a week was there a lesson in one of the principal languages of the country, and then it was bare reading without any explanation whatever. The geography lessons were home tasks, and were nothing more than the repetition by each boy of a certain quantity of matter in a book. It was really a test of memory, and nothing else. The |tliilosophy meant answering by rote a series of questions from a long catechism, aud for practical value may be classed with the geo^triiphy. The arithmetic was better, and as this was Mr. Miller's strong point, we really got some explanation of rules aud were helped forward in our work. The principal took the Latin and Greek languages, history, and penmanship. His own handwriting was remarkably good, almost like copperplate, and he laid down the sensible rule that the test of writing was the ability of any one whatever to read it without hesitation or difticulty. He used to set a copy for us to follow, and then warm with his cane the hands of those whoso performance was not to his satisfaction. The history taught was that of Greece, Home, and England, but we learnt little more than lists of events aud names of rulers. Of the life of the Greek people, of the effects of Roman institutions upon modern nations, and of everything in fact that would be really useful for us to know, we remained ignorant. Th« great mo? emeuts of our own NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 89 g to the who had here the he other effect of ;e8t boys m. The over the igne har- n before. y c'ircum- within a ;he water at waves ih against ace was a boy that ions were 1 close to vho had a lis house, aed again, of teach- .8 taught. geography, >phy, and week was languages re reading rer. The and were each boy book. It thing else, by rote a uhism, and with the etter, and , we really ere helped nd Greek His own almost like sensible ability of hesitation for us to the hands not to his was that of we learnt names of ople, of the on modern that would e remained of our own le times, the stirring events of modem Europe and America, even past occurrences in Canada, were utterly ignored. We could repeat the legend of Bomulus, and could remember the name of Miltiados, biit we never heard in school of Frederick the Great or of George Washington, except indirectly as their actions affected England. A knowledge of the Latin and Greek languages was, in the opinion of the principal, the first and highest object of a schoolboy's life, and consequently a very large portion of time was) taken up with those studies. I went to the Cooaigne Academy from an infant school, where English grammar was be- yond the capacity of the pupils, and the day I entered it I had a copy of the Eton Latin grammar put into my hands, with a long home task marked off in it. Thereafter two hours every day I stood before the principal declin- ing Latin nouns and adjectives and conjugat- ing verbs, without ever a word of explanation or comparison with the structure of English speech, with no help or guidance whatever but the rod when a mistake was made. So it went on, through the Delectus, and the Com- mentaries of Caisiir and the Lives of Cornelius Nepos and the Mneid of Virgil, all dull rote, with no life and no real teaching in it at all, so that I believe unless a hoy had an extraordi- nary natural imdination tor Latin lore, his training at this school would forever have re- pelled him from it. Mathematics were not taught at all, and if I had not at a later date had tilt' advantage of a course of lessons in this branch of knowledge from an Irishman named O'Donnell— an eccentric but very estim- able man,— of algebra and geometry I should have remained absolutely ignorant. The institution which I have been describing was a fair specimen of a public Rch:ol in Canada half a century a^jo. The system of instruction was then generally held to be good, and the severe discipline was regarded as scriptural and correct. No parent dreamed of complaining about it. There was but one ex- ctiptum that I know of : the Grammar Sclutol of St.John, of which Dr. James Patersou was the principal, under whoso guidance many boys were trained who have made their mark in Canada. It was my good fortune to attend this school for souie time after leaving the Cocaigne Aeadeniv, and to Dr. Paterson more than to any other teacher I owe what little knowledge 'I hud when I entered u|Hm the duties of active lite. I (tan speak of him with gratitudv and I am not the only one m South Africa who Iwuefited by his instruction. His idea oi a sclutol was tlitt it should be a place of preparation tor a l)oy to educate himself, the teacher could only lay a foundation, the pupil must build upon it ; but he took care to lay the foundation strong and well, and he pointed out the way in which the edifice should be raised. He devoted more time to Latin than to all other subjects put together — it was the custom of the day, — but the .^ueid in his hands was a thing of life and beauty to his pupils. A single lesson from him on the use of the globes was worth more than all the geography ever taught at Cocaigne. He pointed outtoo the good for admiration, and cast scorn upon the mean and the bad, till every boy felt an enthusiasm to do what was right. He worked by attraction, not by fear, and I never knew of a case of truancy from his school. But, as I said before, the Grammar School of St. John was exceptional in its system, and I think just on that account many people looked somewhat askance upon it ; the other institu- tion, which I described first, represents the ideas of education at that time. The Cocaigne Academy, its style of teach- ing, its mode of maintenance, the whole system of which it was a representative, might have been in Egypt in the time of the Pharaohs as far as any trace of it can be observed in Canada to-day. The past and the present are thrown into striking contrast in the Dominion in nothing more than in the public schools. Each province has control over the education of its own people, and no two have exactly the same system, but there is a general resemblance between them all except Quebec. The supreme direction of educational mat- ters in each is vested in a council of public instruction, which consists in New Brunswick of the governor, the members of the executive council, the president of the university of New Brunswick, and the superintendent-general ; in Nova Scotia of the members of the executive council and the superintendent- general. All regulations are made by these bodies, and they divide the provinces into areas for in- spection and school districts. Each country school district in Ntw Brunswick elects a board of three trustees, and each town school district has a board of seven trustees, three of whom are appointed by the governor in council and tne other four by the municipal council. The trustees are required t(» engage properly (lualified teaclu rs and to provide educational privileges of an unsectarian kind lor all children from five to twenty years ol age. There are normal schools in which teachers are trained, grammar schools, superior schools, and three classes of ordinary schools. The buildings — usually of \ very excellent kind — are put up by means of money raised ou loan 40 5I0TES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. by the trusteeB, and the intercBt, sinking fund, maintenance, &c., are charges upon the school rates. In New Brunswick there is a grammar school in every county, and fifty superior and over seventeen hundred ordinary stiutols in the province, attended by about seventy thousand pupils. The cost is defrayed from the pro- vincial treasury, the county school funds, and school district rates. The provincial treasury contributes ycaily towards the salaries of the teachers .£72 18s, 4d. to the principal of a grammar school, £r)2 Is. 8d. to the principal of a superior school, £2B 2s. 8d. to the principal of a first class ordinarv boys' school, .£20 IBs. 8d. to the principal of a first Jass ordinary girls' school, je22 lOs. to the principal of a second class ordinary boys' school, ^616 178. 6d. to the principal of a second class ordinary girls' school, .£16 178. 6d. to the principal of a third class ordinary boys' school, ^61:3 2s. (id. to the jirincipal "of a third class ordinary girls' school, and half those amounts to the assistant teachers. The county funds con- tribute at the rate of 1/8 for every in • ■ dual resident of either sex, young or old, whiob sum is apportioned according to the number of children in each school. And the balance required is made up by rates upon property and incomes and by a fixed poll tax of 4/2 upon every male between twenty-one and sixty years of age, levied within the school districts. In Nova Scotia the sum granted by the provincial legislature for ordinary schools is fixed at je34,791 13s. 4d. and is apportioned according to prescribed rules, there is a feeble effort to enforce attendance at schools by a trifling fine upon parents or guardians for each child not present during at leust eighty days of the previous year, and there are a few other unimportant differences ; but practically the system is the same as that of New Brunswick. All the schoolrooms that 1 saw were imxlfls of neatness snd comfort, and were furnished with every appliance that could aid the teachers to illustrate the lessons. The desks were made for one or U^<, never more, and stood in lines behind each other with passiiges Itetween the rows. The seats were comfortal)le, and the pupils looked blight and ha])py. The lessons — given from liooks of an approved kind — were well illustriit)-i], so that each child's attention was fixed. The subjects, too, were so arranged that the children did not get weury. For in- stance, the little ones read and went through the fire drill, had a leHson in aritliiiietic and sang Our Own Canadian Hume, in rotation. They seemed thoroughly to enjoy being at sobool I could find but one fault with the system of teaching, and that was a tendency — as it seemed to me — to give Insiraction to the larger children in subjects beyond their capaci- ties. Competitive examinations may be to blame for this, at any rate it must tend to give the pupils a smattering of many subjects rather than a complete mastery of a few. The effect, however, of the Bystein — and that is its best test— is to be seen in a highly intelligent community, in which there is no one without sufficient education to fit himself or herself for any ordinary sphere of life. The religious difficulty is got over in New Brunswick in a very simple manner, and nothing that has occurred within the last year has surprised me more than that the people of Manitoba hare not followed the example of a sister province and settled the dispute that has arisen there in the same sensible way.* The French and other Roman Catholics in New Brunswick objected to send their children to the public schools, because they regarded religion as a necessary — indeed the most im- portant—part of education. They had their convent schools and their college at Meniram- cook, and naturally they did not want to support these and pay special rates, county taxes, and a poll tax for school purposes also. Manifestly it would have been unfair to compel them to do so. And as the greater ui;inberof elementary subjects, such as spelling, reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, and geography can be taught without any religious bias one way or the other, »ii arrangement was made that instruction i.i these subjects should lie given to the pupils in the convent schools a certain number of hours every day, that the schools should be open to the inspectors, and should share in the grants aud privileges the same as the others. Outside of the stipulaU'd hours religion is taught, but no one has a right to complain of that, Of course the Roman Catholic schools in thinly populated localities do to some exUMit * FruviouH to till) inliniiiiiion of Maiiitoltii into tin- Dominion the Honian Ciitholics of tiiiit proviiici- miiiiituineil He|>uratu schooU. Une of the turiiiH nl' union wax tliiit jill riiflitx of tlie minority in rexiH-ct ti Hi'hools were to ho reliiinetl. In IMi'<», however, the loiiil leKisliiture of Maiiitol'ii paswd an Ail alxiiiMhii": Moinirate hcIkhiIm and iirohiliitiiiK relitfiniiH teiichiii^ in the |)ulili<' mhoolM. 'I'he ciiit'stion han •im ;« l«M)li liefiire Iho court*, and finally liutore the jiidii'iui I'liniiiiitUio of the privy coiiiit'il, whii'h dei'ied tiial the ritiUU of t>ie Xoman ('aMmhc minority hid l(t'.>n inteilVre.l witli. 'I'he <'atholiiM tlien nHki'd the Domiiuoii I'lirllainent to restore l.. thtviu the Kclioois as maintained liy tlieni prior i<< 181X1. It is (jillloult to KtM) wliere the tmntdu will eml, as tlie .ManitoJKi leKi^hltul•e rtifusug to rutiude from tho ixmition that all (Mildie iiuho(dM in thu pruviiictt •h»ll bo untiroljr luuwctariiui. syBtem !y — as it to the ir capaci- be to d to give ts rather and that a highly )re is no himself ife. in New ner, and last vear leople of nple of a i tiiat has iy.» The a in New lildreu to regarded most i in- had their Meniram- waiit to es, county )oseR also. • to compel nr.inbt'V of <, rending, geography H bias ono was made should lie HchooU a r, that the !ctor«, and /ilegoH the HtipuluU'd liau a right achoolH ill >rne extent >l)ii into till* lit proviiii't! In* tvriiiH III' y in r«'HiMi('t iH», hiiWilVcl', ihmI an Art in»( ri*li»(iiiiiH |iii ^rade ; appliance's Hav, as a V villages tii Africa the to cram tl alight kn s I ro( fi NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 41 clash with the public undenominational schools, for two have to exist upon what would not be more than sufficient for one ; but this is a small evil compared with a sectional grievance, and by submitting to it all are enabled to live in amity and friendship side by side. The circumstances of South Africa have caused a different system of public schools to be developed. Even in Canada, with a very small coloured population, it has been found necessary to provide either separate schools or separate classrooms for white and coloured children, — I shall have something to say in another chapter of the school for blacks in St. John, in which I spent an afternoon, — here, until we can plainly draw a line and use words that cannot be misunderstood, free schools, open to all, and in which instruction of exactly the same ki id would be given to every pupil, would prove a curse instead of a blessing to the country. The ox and the ass are no more fitted to be yoked together than are the children of a European and of a Hottentot to be trained in the same way. All need training, but it is training of a d^erent kind. With the great bulk of the coloured people time devoted to the teaching of geography, history, and advanced arithmetic, for instance, is simply time wasted : they do not, and can not, make use of such knowledge. Their hands and eyes and moral faculties need to be educated during long years before they can make a start from the point which the European child occupies by virtue of his descent. It is in that direction their training shoula J roceed, in order to bring out the best that is in them, to make them of the greatest use to themselves and to the community. So the Canadian system would not be appro|>riate here. As in Canada, our public undenominational schools are inspected by government officials, they have local boards of management, and they are classified in different orders; but half the cost of their maintenance is made up from payments by pupils, the other half being contriouted bv"th« oolor.irti treasury. A certain number of children of poor parents are ad- mitted free. In these schools — attended exclusively by European children — the in- struction imparted is, I think, equal in quality to that given in Canadian schools of the same grade ; but as a whole the buildings and appliance's for illustration are not so good. 1 sav, as a whole, for in many of our towns and villafjei there are exceptions. And in South Africa the tendency is not nearly so marked to cram the heads of the larger pupils with a ■light knowledge of a variety of subjects a little in advance of the capacity of their years. A great difficulty experienced in South Africa., and almost unknown in Canada, is that of reaching a population very thinly scattered over a vast area. Where farms are small — onl^ from one to three or four hundred acres in size — it is evident that it is easy to establish a school that will meet the wants of a large number of children ; but where they are six thousand acres in extent, as the sheep- walks of the South African Karoo, it is a most difficult matter. The farm boarding schools — liberally aided by government — to some extent meet the want, though they cannot do so entirely in the case of poor people. Thus it is unfortunately the case that many European children are growing up in South Africa with- out a knowledge of books. The education of the coloured people is provided for by large grants from the public treasury to mission schools of every denomina- tion. The status of teachers is certainly better in South Africa than in Canada. In each coun- try they require to have certificates of com- petency, and in each country they are only engaged for limited periods. The salaries in Canada are smaller, but then the cost of living is less, so that I think they are about on a par in that respect. But the good service allow- ance of the Capo Colony is an advantage which the Canadian teacher does not enjoy. The object is to encourage qualified men and women to make teaching their life work, and to do their duty thoroughly. The system pro- vides that after each period of five years con- tinuous service, up to fifteen ycarti, if the examinations have shown that the pupils have made satisfactory progress, a good service allowance is paid by the goveruiueut to the teacher, in audition to his or her salary. In case of loss of health, or upon reaching sixty years of age, a teacher is entitled to retire from service and to draw thereafter annually the good service allowance as a pousion, with an addition of fifty })er cent for a service of fifteen and under twenty years, neventy-five per cent for a service of twenty and under thirty years, and a hundred per cent for a service of over thirty years. PeuHions from jei8 to JilOO a year are thus provided for, according to the grade of the teachei' and the length of service. The teachers to whom I spoke in Canada upon this subject, however, did not seem much interested in it. They a])poared to regard their occupation as merely temporary, and I did not hear of many who had been engaged v«ry long NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. in it. Those who were not teachers did not approve of the plan, because, they said, men and women who taught any length of time got into fixed grooves and were as a rule in- capable of making use of new and improved plans, so that people fresh from training in- stitutions were to be preferred. CHAPTER VIII. Bt Rail from Moncton to Sprinqhill. — Courts op Justice in Canada. — Lawyers. Sprinqhill. — An Indian Village. — Parrsboro. — Weather in Canada in November. — Shediac. — ;River Hebert. My second tour from Moncton was to Parrs- boro, on the shore of the Basin of Minas, in Nova Scotia. The train between these places passes through the important towns of Dor- chester, Sackville, Amherst, and Springhill, and from the windows of the carriages may be seen ground that was stubbornly contested between the French and the English in the olden times. I can do no more than enu- merate the names and give some few particulars of the places on the way until Springhill was reached, for I had not time to stop at each. First, then, at Memramcook station is the Roman Catholic college of the province. The buildings made a good show from the line, and I was informed that many pupils were being educated in them. At Dorchester, which is situated at the junction of the Memramcook and Petitcodiac rivers, a vi^ry imposing building on a hill attracts attention. It is the penitentiary of the maritime provinces, but why it should have been placed in such a conspicuous position I do not know, nor did I think of inquiring. Sackville is a port of some consequence, and is the terminus of the branch railway fro*n Cape Tormentine, so that all the winter traffic of Prince Edward Island passes through it. Here also is the Wesleyan college of (he province. The train was half filled with students of this college, who had been con- testing in athletic sports with thoae of uuuthur inutitution somewhere else, and as they had been victors, they were in the best uf spirits. They sent a deputation through the carriag^es to ask the other passengers if there was any objection to their singing, and as of course there was none, they gave voice properly. A more intelligent, or physically finer lot of young men could be seen nowhere in the world. News of the great victory they had won at football had been flashed along the wires, and the whole college and its friends were at the station to meet them. The train drew up amid such hurrahing that even the engine bell could not be heard, and cheer succeeded cheer until we steamed away again and left the rejoicing youths behind. The line next passes over the Tantramar marsh, which is about forty square miles in size, and has produced magnificent crops of hay year after year ever since the French occupation. Over the isthmus of Chignecto a commencement was made some time ago with the construction of a ship railway. The idea was to raise laden ships of anything under a thousand tons burden by hydraulic presses, and to convey them in a cradle on rails from the gulf of St. Lawrence to the bay of Fundy, or in the opposite direction, and thus to save the passage round the peninsula of Nova Scotia. A great deal of money was sunk in the undertaking, which was abandoned before completion. On crossing the Missiguash river the railway enters the province of Nova Scotia. The name of this stream recalls to the mind of a Cana- dian some of the most memorable events in the history of his country, for on its nortliern bank once stood the strong fortress Beau Sejour, made famous by the efforts of Father La Loutre to prevent the English occupation. In 1755, however, Beau Sejour was taken by Lieutenant-Colonel Moncton. when its name was changed to Fort Cumberland. Its tni^o are still to be seen crowning the top of a hill which rises steeply from the marsh. Legends of the old days of strife between English, French, and Indians were to be heard here a century afterwards, and it is quite possible they are not even yet all forgotten. The first town reached in Nova Scotia is Amherst, a place of about four thousand in- habitants, and the seat of the county court of Cumberland. I may here make a digression to explain that the courts of justice in Canada are somewhat different to those in South Africa. There are first a largo number of magis- trates, who try petty cases, civil and criminal, and are paid by fees. Our special justices of tiio peace correspond partly to them, but not entirely. Next come the parish courts, each of which is presided over by a commissioner. In these courts cases for debt not exceeding £16 13s. 4d., and actions for damages not exceeding j£8 6s. 8d. are tried, but are subject to review by a judgi on demand of the loser. Above these are the county courts, pre- sided over by judges who must have been barristers In these co 8d. or for d criminal ce In crimina who must vict. In ci whom the two hours 1 Next ar which cons courts of r tried befo however, jurisdictio in the circ seven, of \ Highest Canada, w the <.'hief Ottawa, t i'udges do orm a qu This syi the Cai^e whether NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 48 barristers of at least seven years standing. In these courts actions for debts under .£83 6s. 8d. or for damages under j641 ISs. 4d. and all criminal cases that are not capital are tried. In criminal cases there is a jury of twelve, who must agree in finding a verdict to con- vict. In civil cases there ie a jury of five, of whom the decision of four is accepted after two hours retirement. Next are the provincial supreme courts, which consist of six judges. These are purely are, however, much less in Canada than in South Africa. Here an advocate and an attorney are distinct individuals, there the two professions are commonly united in the same person. To be an attorney one must study four years with a barrister, or three years if one is a bachelor of arts, and must then pass an examination. After practising a year, without any further examination, one is then sworn in as a barrister before the supreme court. Competition between the members of Off for a Sleiqh Drive, courts of review and appeal, as no cases are tried before them primarily. The judges, however, go on circuit to try cases beyond tho jurisdiction of the county courts. Civil casos in the circuit courts are decided by a jury of seven, of whom five must agree. Highest of all is the supreme (!Ourt of Canada, which ctmsists of five judges besides th»' <;hief justi(!e. This court is stationary at Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, and it- judges do not go on circuit. Five of them form a quorum. This system is more elaborate than that of the Cape Colony, but I am unable to say whether it is better or not. Legal expenses the law is keen, and the fees are therefore moderate This will be apparent at once from the fact that from the barristers the judges of the county courts are selected, whose salaries are not higher than those of divisional resident magistrates in South Africa. After this digression, occasioned by thi' remarkthat Amherst is the seat of the county court of Cumberland, I can go on with the train. We passed the government experi- mental farm at Nappau, and soon afterwards were on one of the largest and richest coal- fields in existence. At Springhill the train stopped. It was late in the evening, the day was the last of the week, and it had just o'^m- u NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. menced to rain heavily. The conductor in- formed us that there were no passengers for any place beyond, and as they did not run on Simday, we had twenty-eight hours for an examination of the town and its numerous churches. There was a very comfortable hotel, he added, not far from the station, and the proprietor had a covered carriage at the doKor ready to take us to it. This is worse than my unlucky adventure in Moville, I thought, and in my own Canada too. But there was no help for it, so we went to the hotel, which was really what the conductor termed it, a very comfortable one. Sunday morning broke with a cloudless sky, and I rose to find myself in a well-built mining town of five or six thousand inhabi- tants. It had sprung into existence long after I left Canada, and all that I knew about it was that five years ago there was a terrible disaster in one of the pits, when some hundred and fifty persons lost their lives by an explosion of fire damp. The yearly output of coal at this centre is not far short of half-a- million tons. I was not interested in Springhill, and as one of my brothers, who was with me, was anxious to return to his business in Chicago, we resolved to engage a trap and go on to Parrsboro, twenty-three miles distant, im- mediately after breakfast. The drive was a very pleasant one, as the road was good and the horses fresh. We passed through an Indian village, or what passes for such now in the maritime provinces of Canada. The houses exactly resembled those of Europeans, but were smaller, the only prominent building being the Roman Catholic church. The fact is the Micmacs of this part have mixed their blood with that of white people to such an extent that there can be few — if any — pure breeds left. They are much more French than Indian in their habits, and altogether French in their creed. Some that I saw were to all appearance ordinary habitans. We reached Parrsboro at noon, aud ^mained there two days. The village ccntaino about two thousand inhabitants, dependent to a large extent upon shipping and the lumber trade, though in the summer it is a favourite seaside resort, and is often visited by tourists even from the United States. The timber trade is very small now compared to what it was forty years ago, for vast areas of forest land have been cleared, still the stacks of deals and boards were worth seeing, though the shipping season was practically over, and only belated barque was loading for Liverpool, Parrsboro is a pretty place. It one an excellent harbour, sheltered by a high tongue of land which is a peninsula at low water and an island at high. The view of the coast over the neck is superb, as prominent capes stand out until the last one fades away in the distance. Then in another direction one looks over the Basin of Minas towards the Land of Evan- geline, and sees sailing craft and steam packets always flitting co and fro. There are nice drives and pleasant places in the neigh- bourhood too, but I had not time to visit them, and beyond the village itself there was no one that I cared particularly to meet A generation had passed away since I was there before, and there was nothing to draw me to the new names and faces. We returned to IVloncton on Tuesday. Some of the >eaders of these articles may wish to know what the weather in Canada was like at this time, so I will describe it here. During the night of the 5th of November the first snow of the season fell. There was no wind to make it drift, and as the fall was heavy the whole country was covered to a depth of several inches in the morning. When it cleared up about noon on the 6th, it seemed to me that everyone, young and old, was bent upon onjoyment. That afternoon sleighs were dashing about in all directions, without noise except the jinghng of the bells on the horses. If would have delighted anyone to see the little children. Some were coasting on hand sledges, others were building up snow men, and one party of boys that I noticed were running up a ladder to the top of a verandnh and then jumping off into a bank they had made. Their merry shouts proved how de- lighted they were. (Jntil dark the children were out, and it was difficult to get them inside even when evening set in. It was so nice playing in the snow ! The next morning it began to melt rapidly, for the ground beneath it was not frozen, and soon it disappeared. The streets were slushy for about twenty-four hours, and then the most charming weather imaginable set in. The sky was perfectly clear, aud the air just cold euough to make a greatcoat necessary. One felt fit for any amount of exercise. This lasted until the 19th of November, when the thermometer went down rapidly. There was a self -feeding stove in the hall adjoining my bedroom, and when I retired that evening I was advised to leave the door open to let in the heat, as it would be very cold before morning. But cold was just what I wanted, and so I closed the door. lu the morning the windows were frosted over in patterns more beautiful than man ever made, h tongue rater and oast over >e8 stand distance, over the of Evan- d steam niere are le neigh- to visit there was meet A was there iw me to turned to icles may mada was i it here, imber the 3 was uo fall was red to a gf. When it seemed was bent ighs were out noise le horses. see the on band now men, iced were verandiili they had how de- .nd it was a evening )he snow ! b rapidly, ozeu, and re slushy then the i set in. e air just lecessarv. se. This ivhen the the hall [ retired the door be very was just loor. lu d over in er made, O H O H Q B H I O O SI ' • the water i ice. and th before goii \m^.. ■gr''-'"'~- ..J f « Cf i ^'- . ^__^ '-^^1 ■; ■ js^^ /. ^AS. '! \ • ^|B^' v-^*^ ^^^''^ J «- 1 WglLV„. P^Hk|(^^ '^..^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H^^^^^^^r^^^^H^V W'^-' ' ^^HB^ ifv^4^^^^^^^^^^B ^^^^^^^B^^^^^^IL r mil \ .y^KHH^H ^^^H^ '" ^^^^^^^^^^^^I^^I^^V ^B^P^^H J < rHSBpT'^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^I^^b^^I^s^H f* '.-i ' "jffll sSSK''' "^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^H^^H^B^^^L > » vJSi^H ■p'flr .i-^i^j ' . :*■■ ■f.j' ,:^W ■ '^iu^^ - ' ' ■■ • - '^- "-^H'-' '><^' Jl f '/f^p .a^^:-'-- -'..•^' '"^ ^' ./yV^^ -".■t ^> Rj^^^-^^^^l^^^^^^^^Sc^Trx ^v^£j»?M3iSi'.3aBil^B^^^^B ^^M ^ is^' i.-vlfflS P^-':-.J. lamm. ■ ,:;imi - J 1 -^ ^ -^ ^' , .*■ 1 If---. P^^^MBv.-:. !Z5 A week of ''^h^B^^kII^- - •/'-'' j^^' 1 'm^HI *. worth mor '- . ' *\ CQ lasted just ' "• . .. ■ i; ;^^^^^HppP\ ^''' . / .' f '^ aHI ''■/' ^ P^ 0',^ 'Wl^ ' t /'■''''• ^ ' rf' jra . : r^: H ■1 fw ■• '■„ * ' * ^' 1 <^ «' . ./ ■ iJi'iilii llA^t iJiiMiu.aiiiaBi4 l| 1 ^^^^^^H t '*^flB %-k^ V ■. ■ , ' iTl m ^^^^^^^^^^^H ; it--. 1 — Jl NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 45 the water in the ewer was covered with thick ice, and the ink in a bottle that I had used before going to bed was a little solid block. Mrn Tobooqanino A week of weather like that I felt would be worth more than any medicine to me, and it. lasted just a week. The sky was beautifully clear, and the sun was bright, but even at midday the temperature was below the freezing point. The ground became as hard as iron, and when on the 27th of November alittle snow fell again, everyone knew it had come to stay for the winter. During that week skating was vigorously practised by the young people. There were some fine sheets of ice close by, and I was almost horrified when a huge structure in the heart of the town was pointed out to me as the rink. It seemed to me that degeneracy was courted by those who made use of a rink, even though the floor was real ice, when they could have a field better and fifty times larger in the open air. But fashion rules in this as in everything else, except with school boys, who were rewarded for throwing Obildbbn Coabtino. Child on Snow Shoes off her chains by having the frozen ponds all to themselves. The clearing of the forests has made a great difference in the climate of the maritime . provinces of Canada, and the winters are generally shorter and milder now than they used to be. December is often well advanced before the ground is covered with a durable snow blanket, and this it loses in March, so that sleighs and toboggans are rarely in use more than three months of the year. I visited Shediac, on the Straits of North- umberland, twice. The village is only seven- teen miles from Moncton, in the opposite direction from Parrsboro, and the trains run 46 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. frequently. This place is much more French now than it was forty years ago, and as an evidence supports a newspaper in that language. Its shipbuilding has ceased, and its export of timber is small. Its oysters have had the reputation, since Judge Haliburton made them famous, of being the best in America, and its apples — if some that I ate from my cousin's orchard were a fair specimen— are about as near perfection as any fruit can be. Shediac has a perfectly safe harbour, but that is not a great ad\antage in Canada, which has so many of them. Two miles beyond the village is Point du Chftne, the terminus of the best ferry route from Prince Edward Island during the summer season. Another tour which I made from Moncton was by train to River Hebert, in the county of Cumberland, where I spent three days. It is a beautiful locality, as the valley through which the river flows is broad and winding, and patches of forest are scattered over the heights. Along the stream are belts of rich marsh land, and the slopes upward from these are cultivated in places and used fur pasture in others, the houses being dotted all about. I had never been there before, and knew nothing about the place except that it was the home of one of my brothers. With him one afternoon I took a short walk to the mouth of a coal pit in the vallev. The pit ran into the ground in a sloping direction, so that low laden carriages were hauled up by steam power to a platform where they were tilted. The coal fell on a grating which acted as a sieve, and slid down into railway trucks ready to receive it below and convey it away. Aete human industry was reduced to a minimum. In South Africa such a mine would be of the greatest value, but in Nova Scotia it is a mere nothing, be- cause the quality of the coal at Springhill is somewhat better. As we were standing near the mouth of the pit high up one side of the valley, a schooner came sailing along the river, and a train wound away beyond. I have seldom seen a fairer sight. Men and women brought up among rural scenes such as this — and they are plenti- ful in Canada — must have an intense affection for their (x>untry, such as no residents in towns can ever feel. CHAPTER IX. Cities of St. John and Halifax. I could only spend three days in St. John, and had not time to go un the river to Frede- ricton. There are few moaem cities which sup ply materials for a more interestinghistory than the one at the mouth of the great river which De Monts and Champlain saw for the first time on the 24th of June 1604, and named the S. Jean. The French period is crowded with the elements of romance. Here once stood the fort held by Charles de la Tour against the army of his rival Chamisay, when they were engaged in civil strife for the possession of Acadia. Here Chamisay treacherously massacred the men who had held the fort against him when the wife of De la Tour, after a gallant defence, surrendered on honourable terms. Here that brave woman died of grief, without a thought that her volatile husband would ever obtain what they had striven for, though he did obtain it, but only after Chamisay s death by marrying his widow. Here on the banks of this river despairing men and weeping women were seen fleeing to the woods with children not more helpless than themselves, when the French settlements were given to the flames in that cruel strife which left the country a possession of Eng- land. What suffering was not witnessed at times like these, as well as when the Milicites went on the war path against the pale faces. In 1761 Fort Frederick was built here and garrisoned with British troops, and in 1763 about two hundred families from Massa- chusetts, under the leadership of a hardy Eioneer named Israel Perley, settled on the auks of the river. But the greater part ol; the site of the present city was covered with frimeval forest when on the 18th of May ^ 783 a fleet of twenty ships cast anchor before it, and three thousand people, men, women, and children, began to land on the soil which was to be their future home. Thev were United Empire Loyalists, who had taken the British side in the American revolutionary war, and were then obliged to expatriate themselves. During the summer of that year two thousand more arrived, and subsequently many little parties joined their predecessors. In the States there was, perhaps Uv^t un- naturally, a very bitter feeling against the adherents to the British cause. The new governmentH confiscated all their property, real and personal, and after the surrender of Cornwallis they saw plainly that there was nothing but exile before them. They went to different parts of Canada and formed settle- ments, chief of which was the one at the mouth of the river St. John. Parrtown the Slace was first named, after the governor of [ova Scotia, but in November 1784 New Brunswick was constituted a separate province, and soon i city of St. i I have n( further iutt or the town of the loyal ships whicli my childho early days i They were what their sake, and o in consequ again they And yet 1 1 the acts o brought on would all h the people explained, ours not 1 have feare against us. What a the Settler was as tl American exclusive a and habits all built of of the sam yards clos usually mi and huge t the wharv* box, ready very diss at one 8eeme< The city mnning p« between, s( were steep I could localities November hill on wh which a v€ the river a Partridge else that I house in occupied I; the street ■ stood, and of the al gentleman versation. a Uiitory i there just NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 47 story than iver which ' the first ad named crowded lere once la Tour say, when for the Charnisay who had le wife of irrendered ve woman that her nrhat they in it, but rrying his despairing fleeing to i helpless ittlements ruel strife 1 of Eng- bnessed at ) Milicites >aie faces, here and d in 1763 u Massa- f a hardy ed on the r part of ered with 1 of May lior before >, women, oil which hev were taken the olutionary Bzpatriate that year •sequently decessors. i not un- rainst the The new property, render of here was f went to 3d settle- e at the town the remor of '84 New province, and soon afterwards Parrtown became the city of St. John. I have not sufficient leisure t«) enter much further into the history of either the province or the town. In spite of the terrible povertv of the loyalist refugees and the bitter harl foi colour fr white, an perhaps 1 expressioi were all < was strict The h knowledg in a soho4 ■econd — I informed inp. An( NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA. 4» in the ued eyery snough to regularly I find it object in : some of vity. Dr. statistics ey mi^ht ' Africa, oo much anything : at Loch bed from as much tttlement an sUve e Britiih esapeake with the laced on tecoming It ther* lived together in As I had not seen public schools, I was a tendency among them to live in the city. They formed choice material for philan- thropists to work with, and I wished therefore to know the result of the care that had been bestowed upon them. I aiay say, however, that they never were on an equality, either physically or mentally, with the Kaffirs on our eastern frontier, who have a strain of Asiatic blood in their veins that raises them high above most other Africans. I was informed that they the worst part of the city, coloured children in t^e inquired if they were not being educated, and was informed that they vere, but in a separate building and by special teachers. Why ? I asked. On moral g'.ounds, was the reply. My cousin offered to take me to their school, and we spent a whole afteruoon there. , The principal teacher was a Bermudau, perfectly black, but a highly intelligeut and fine looking man. The Bermudaus are recog- nised in America as being in every way superior to the other blacks. They have East Indian blood in them, and it shows itself in more reined features and a bilkiuess of the hair, but especially in higher intellectual power. This teacher, a neatly dressed hand* some man, was the very essence of politeness and civility. My cousm informed him of the object of my visit, when he at once expressed a warm interest in Africa, the land of his fatherb. He had heard of Lovedale, and of the good work being done there, so when I informed him that I bad once l>een a teacher at that institution and told him of the positions of usefulness now occupied by some of its former pupils, he was ready to do anything in his power for me. All the children were brought into one large room, and the girls' department assembled there also. The female teacher, a nicely dressed comely young woman, was the princi* pal's niece. One had only to look at the group of children to see why on moral grounds it was regarded as necessary to have a separate school for them. They were of all shades of oohmr from the deepest black to a dingy white, and some were very coarsely attired, perhaps half attired would b t a more correct expression, though I was glad to see that they were all clean, and was told that cleanliness was strictly enforced in the school. The higher classes showed a ver^ fair knowledge of the subjects taught ordinarily in a school of the third— I can birdly ny the ■econJ — grade in the Cape Colony, but I was informed that their strongest point was sing- ing. And indeed they sang some of Sankey s hymns in a way that mado it a treat to listen to them. You have been teaching here, I said to the principal, a long time, I understand. He told me how many years, but I have for^jotten the number. You have taught the grown up people of to-day when they were children, and you are acquainted with all the Africans in this city, I suppose ? Yes, he replied, I taught them and I know them all. Now tell me please. I said, what the children you firdt taught and all those you have been teaching since are doing now, I want to know how they are making a living. One is a professor in a college in the south,, be replied with gieat satisfaction, and be told me of that boy's cleverness and good dis- position and studious habits, and how he had step by step risen to be a professor of English literature iu one of the former slave states of the American Union. And the others ? I said. One is a lawyer in St. John, he replied, but he did not tell me more of him, and my cousin informed me afterwards that this lawyer would not exert himself to work up a case,* and was iu distressed circumstances when the legal fraternity, out of compassion, made him their librarian, and gave him a salary to live upon. The others were in various occupations, he added. But I would like to know, I persisted, exactly what they are doing. Please tell me how many of them are blacksmiths, or carpen- ters, or masons, or wheelwrights, for I hear mechanics are somewhat scarce. How many of them are keeping grocer's or draper's shops ? How many are working in factories H He knew of none in any of these occupa- tions ; but, said he, they have one line of business entirely to themselves, that is the barber's. But they can't all be barbers F I suggested. No. a good many of them manage to get a living by whitewashing. Can you not think of any other occupations in which some are engaged 'r Well yes, he replied. I can, but then it i» not much to boast of. A good many are employed in opening ovsters. I could hardly avoid smiling, but I found afterwards that this statement was literally true. The number of oyitera consumed iu St. John is very large indeed, and at every ulace where they are sold a black man is employed to open them. The dexterity with winch he accomplishes this is marrellous. it is almost aa «0 NOTES ON CANADA AND SOUTH AFRICA; art, but then, as the teacher said, it is not the kind of skill to boast of. And now there are the professor, and the lawyer, and the barbers, and the whitewashers, and the ovster openers : are there any others ? He could think of no other fixed occupation « : those who were not engaged in them, ne said, got a living by doing odd chores about the town. Some of the girls went into service for a while, others didn't, but any number of the women took in washing, and a few of them went out scrubbing. Such is the condition of these people in St. John, where there are about five hundred of them, and I ascertained subsequently that there are about a thousand of them at Halifax in the same state, except that there are a few coopers among them. They have not worked their way upward, and, setting aside a few individuals, they do not seem to be capable of doing so. I have no doubt they think the white people ought to furnish them with good positions, as they cauuot realise that they must fit themselves for Moinething better before something better falls tu their hands to do. The time had now come for me to leave Canada again, though I longed to be able to spend another mouth or two there. The bracing weather had done me an infinite amount of good. I found my nerves so strengthened that I could once more write legibly, and I felt that I ought to be in record offices ill Europe, for the opportunity might never recur of getting uiaterial to go on with my historical work. Mv plan was to return to London to consult again the medical specialist under whose treatmeut I had placed myself, and to .look tor documents in the India Office and the Manuscript Department of the British Museum, after which I purposed to visit Rome and Lisbon to obtain some information that I believed could l)e hud in those places, I was already incommunit ion with men who had examined recordH there, and who offered to help me with their ex- perience, besides which I had studied the Portugueat> language sufficiently to \h) al)le to master the conteuts of any ancient manu* scripts. As I ^anie to find out afterwards, I had been builoling a huge castle in the air, and I was never in reality to see more than a very small portion of it. Never mind, it is better to build big air castles and eujoy looking at them in prospect, than to build wretched little ones that are not worth contemplating at all. I could not foresee either that the work in London ulone was sufficient to occMipy all the remainder of my holiday, or that niv health was not so firmly re-established as to stand the strain of very close application. I onl.t knew that I ought not to let more of the hours pass away without doing something towards my work! I therefore parted with my relatives, and took the train for Halifax in Nova Scotia. This city, of about thirty-nine thousand in* habitants, is the only one in Canada garrisoned by British troops, and as it is also a naval station, uniforms were plentiful in its streets. It is the most thoroughly English town on the American continent. The temperature ranges from -f-98 to — 24 Fahrenheit, when I was there it was about -i-20. Most of the houses are of wood, biit there are some very fine buildings of stone and brick. There is a noble public garden, with ornamental sheets of water — ice of course in December, — and treeB, ail except those of the pine species leafless when I saw them. The graveyards are within the city, and are well laid out and kept. I visited the free public library, which is open from 1 to 7. and on Saturdays from 1 to 9, It is in a room over the town hall. There are two lady librarians, who informed me that it contained twentv thousand volumes. Ab it looked no larger than the public library of a third rate town in the Cape Colony, I asked' if thtfy were sure, and then came an explana- tion that the twenty thounand included pamphlets and magazines. I went next to the library of the provincial parliament, which is practically open to the public for consultation from 10 to 5 daily duri'';^' the recess. It contaiiH about thirteen thousand volumes, exclusive of duplicates, and eight t'M)UHiind pamphlets. There is a museum maintaiued by the pro- vincial legislature. It is ou the third floor of the fine building used as the post office and custom house, l>ut in too Hniall for the collectioif in it. It is particularly rich in geological specimens, especially in 8|iei-iineiiH of the flora of the coal formations, which were collected by the lute Dr. Houeymaii, government geolo- gist ot' Nova Scotia an it )rary of a I asked' explana- iiicluded provincial en to the ) 5 daily It thirteen cateH, and the pro- •(1 floor of office and coilectioif ^(M)lu^ical t the flora ! collected ent geolt)- (> niiiNeuni iiuld only important mrhoouerH the ^re&t Mm with r puRHed 'roin floor rowns the and from And on the mominff before f^oiuff on board the £ra&m« dor, in whim steamship I had taken passage to Liverpool, I walkea out on the common and saw a group of youngsters practising la crosse on skates on a large frozen pond. The next best thing to enjoying a game of this kind oneself — and that is a long way be- hind me now — is surely to see others enjoying it as those fine young fellows were doing. God bless Canada. M ©anada's Rationaf f enf • H- -:0:' " Mt Own Canadian Homk."— By E. ii. Nblson. Though otlier sliioH may he tut Itright, And other lundH iih fair i Thoujfh <;harin8 of othorcliiiieH invite My wand'rinK footHtepf there: Yet thero is one. the peor of all Ken^ath bright huaven'H douie ; Of thee I '•intr, O happv land, My own Canadian iiouie. Thy InkeH and rivurn ait " thu voice Of iimny waters " raiwi To Him who planned their vant extent A flyiiiphony of praiHe. Thy mountain pt'alcH '>Vrl, I'o (creat a»'hi«veim»ntii riw. A nol>lt> lieritaKM in thine. Ho Krand and fair and free i A f)*rtil(t land, where lut who toiU Hhall well ritwiirded he. And h<< who joy* in naturx'n charmn, KxiiltinK. Iuvo so well. 1 love tliy hills and valleys wide, Thy water's flash and foam ; .Mii.v Ood in love o'er tluHf pi-eside, My own Canadian home. 1 1- - % ' A , r ^^- '-4J \ < M 4 . .-i^ N \-