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Maps, platas, charts, ate, may ba fiimad at diffarant raduction ratios. Thosa too larga to ba antlraiy includad in ona axpoaura ara fiimad baglnning In tha uppar laft hand cornar, iaft to right and top to bottom, as many framas as raquirad. Tha following diagrams iliustrata tha mathod: Las cartas, planches, tablaaux, ate, pauvent Atre fiimAs A das taux da rAduction diff Arants. Lorsqua ia documant ast trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul clichA, 11 ast fllmA A partir da I'angia supAriaur gaucha, da gaucha A droite, at da haut an Ims, an pranant ia nombro d'imagas nAcassaira. Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 THE ST. LAWRENCE PILOT, COMPRISING SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE GULF AND RIVER; BT Reab-Admiral H. W. BAYFIELD, F.R.A.S. BEINO THE RESULT OF A SURVEY MADE BY ORDER OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. VOLUME L FOURTB EDITION. FDBUSHED BT OBDEB OF THB LOBDS COHHISSIONEBS OF THB ADat'I]tAI.TT* LONDON: PBINTED FOB THE HYDBOQBAPHIC OFFICB, ADMIRALTY} AND SOLD BT J. D. POTTEB, Agent far (Ae Admiralty Chart$, 81 POULTRY, AND 11 KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 1860. // JVtce 3s, 6tl. .tcaii^i my¥iH..a:WAJ. ;ra / t|??V '•■;■- J ; -J ■ J 1'. 7 i'" V !''> s^^a :4*^{ Admiral Rayfield. fp- — >l ■*<■«• -CtA-il^J*3.: \^i\^\'\\n-i'\'s-. ;? fOJta&sVX*.' iWft 'S'V ■ss'i^ffiMi'isa-.- >;,;;/;<■ ;-.ii ^o ia«sr?> ¥« -at/i -^tisyj^c sl';'^^- -X Ai' J ^itS-WK-'"* ^_ • --r"' *•'• .af* A'r '«-.>r\ ,r-rt^h^.rm-i-Ta L L?',' •.. ", ' ADVERTISEMENT ^'',;^ '*> ^''^ -^ 'f^;^ ^:• ■. '■' ■.::....: ,. .; . - ;^_-.> .». .. . r '. '>^., ,._,,,,.( TO THE FOURTH EDITION. t/t' . ! V :Ul - '■.)•■ ;«;.. V, Ui The St. Lawrence Pilot is intended to be used with the Admiralty Charts derived from the surveys made, by order of the Lords Com- missioners of the Admiralty, between the years 1828 and 1860, by Captain, now Rear Admiral, H. W. Bayfield, Commander Orlebar, and their assistant oflficers. In it will be found directions for every part of the Qulf and River St. Lawrence, excepting the west coast of Newfoundland, which was surveyed by the celebrated navigator Cook in the last century, '.i i.-f^; ..j.aii ; :^iU vf Jivv/i ..r ^l ai The extent of coast thus described, reckoning from the Atlantic entrances of the Qulf to the termination of the ship navigation at Montreal, and including the circuit of the larger islands and bays, amounts to more than 3,000 miles. In this distance every diversity of coast will be found, from the barren granite shores of Labrador, fringed with numerous islets, rocks, and ledges, to the bold and precipitous shales and limestones of the southern shore westward of Qasp^ ; the coal measures of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Cape Breton ; and the red sandstone so conspicuously displayed in Prince Edward island. , ^ »r «. The first and second chapters of Vol I. are devoted to general remarks on the nature of the navigation and the dangers to be guarded against arising from the ice, fogs, prevailing winds, tides, and currents. In the third chapter are given general directions for the principal line of navigation across the Qulf and up the Estuary of the St. Lawrence, from the main entrance between Newfoundland and Cape Breton islands to Qreen and Red islands, a distance of 500 miles. At this point the channel of the river becomes divided and narrow, and the tides so strong as to render the assistance of a pilot indispensable to a stranger ascending the St. Lawrence in a large: ship for the first time. VOL. I. . k 1 i if I 4 ADTERTISBMENT. In the fourth chapter a description is given of the islands lying in the route to Quebec, including St. Paul, Bird, Magdalen, and Anticosti islands; whilst the fifth chapter describes the southern shore of the Qulf and Estuary, from Cape Despair at the entrance of Chaleur bay to Qreen island. In these two chapters the objects and places referred to in the third chapter are described, and directions given for the harbours and anchorages. In Chapter YI. will be found a description of the coast of Labrador from Cape St. Lewis to Grand point, including the Strait of Belle-isle. The next three chapters, VII., VIII., and IX., describe the northern coasts of the Qulf and Estuary, from the Strait of Belle- isle up to the entrance of the Saguenay river opposite to Green and Bed islands. In these four chapters the coast is described from east to west, as it would be seen by a stranger entering the Gulf through the Strait of Belle-isle. This latter route was formerly very seldom used, excepting by vessels engaged in the fisheries ; but now, being the shorter passage, it is preferred by the Canada mail steamers during the summer months ; and doubtless the aid of steam, and the lights on Belle-isle and Amour point, will greatly lessen the danger of the navigation. The remaining three chapters refer to the pilot water of the St. Lawrence from Green and Bed islands to the cities of Quebec and Montreal, and include the Saguenay river. In this part of the river many new buoys have been introduced, and above Quebec many new lights, since the publication of the former editions of this work. ■ •• <•; / Vol II. contains the description of the southern entrance of the Gulf, through Chedabucto bay and the Gut of Canso, and all the southern parts of the Gulf, including Chaleur bay, the coaats of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and the islands of Prince Edward and Cape Breton. 1 L W. Hydrographie Office, Admiralty, London, Jane 1860. ^v^f/^ .4;y-% #v. ,,.,,;.A *.,v?V .-,•;■ r' CONTENTS. PART I. CHAPTER I. General Remarks Massey's sounding machine - Variation. Deviation - . . . Magnetic action of the shore. Ice Fogs. Winds and weather ... Marine barometer .... Page - IS - 14 - 1ft 16,17 18-21 CHAPTER n. CUURENIS AND TIDAL STREAMS IN THE GULF AND BIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE. Prevailing currents ...... Currents at the entrance of the Gulf .... Currentiathrough the Strait of Belle-isle - . Its course after entering the Gulf - - . . . Main current of the river. Its course and rate ... Bound Point de Monts ..... Along the south coast -.-... Bemarks on the tides of the North coast, eastward of Point de Monts • 2S . 22 . 23 • as 23,24 - 27 • 28 - 28 CHAPTER HL OKKERAL DIRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATING THE GULF AND BIYBB OF ST. LAWRENCE. Vessels entering the Gulf should endeavour to make the island of St Paul • • St Paul island to the Bird rocks and Magdalen island .... Bird rocks to the island of Anticosti ...... Passage north of Anticosti - ---.... PUsage south of Anticosti --...... Anticosti to Point de Monts, with fair and with beating winds ... Point de Monts to Bicquette island, with easterly winds and thick weather. An instance of the fatal conseqneneei of neglecting the deviation of the compass. " Pilots so 31 32 3S 35 36 » O CONTENTS. Pac* Point de Monts to Bioquette, with loutherly and with northerlj wind*. InttuoM of the elFeot* of the oorrenti and tides - • - • • -41 Bioquette to Oreen ialand lighthop^ ...... 4S Beating up the Ettnary with westerly winda - • - - -45 Batuning down the Ettoary and Qolf • • - - - 48 CHAPTER IV. ISLANDS IN THE OULF OF ST. LAWRENOB. BtPaalitland 61 Bird rocks -••....-.•Sa Bryon ialand .........88 Magdalen ialanda .•-..... 85-67 Deadman iaiet .........64 Tides and currents around the Magdalen islands • - • • -67 Anticosti island; general description, proTision posts, and lighthouses - 68-71 Southern coast of Anticosti ; directions ..... 78-77 Northern coast of Anticosti ; directions ..... 77-79 Remarks upon the currents and tides around Anticosti - - • - 80 " -^ CHAPTER V. SOUTH COAST OF THE OULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE BAY — CAPE DESPAIR TO OREEN ISLAND. Cape Despair and Leander shoal. Bonaventure island. Ferc£ bay. Mai bay. Peter point and Flat island ...... 8S-84 Oasp4 bay. Cape Oaspg ard Flower-pot rock. Seal rocks. Douglas town and roadstead. River St. John ...... 84-86 Oaspe harbour; the N.W. and S.W. anus; the basin; Tides, currents, winds, .and soundings ........ 86-88 ^e South coast ttom Cape Gasp^ to Cape Chatte. Cape Hosier. Qriffln core. \] Great Fox river. The Great pond. Magdalen river. Mont Louis river. St. ' " Anne and Chatte rivers. Cape Chatte • • - - - 89-98 Cape Chatte to Bamaby island. Matan river. Little and Grand Metis bays. Cook cove and Mount Camille. Father point Rimousky road. Bamaby island 93-97 Bamaby island to the Basade islets. Old Bic harbour. Arignole reef. Cape Arignole. Ha Ha bay. Bic and Bicquette islands ; their reefk, and the Alcide roolu Anchorages at Bic. Tides. Edge of the south bank - - 97-105 Basade islets. Basque island. Apple island. Green island, lighthouse, reef; anchorage, and tides ....... 105-108 CHAPTER VL ^^ •* ■ .. .-■..„-«',,<».■■»' 'dOABT OF LABRADOR.— CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, INOLUDINO TUB STRAIT OF BELLE-ISLE. ■. ' - t . General description of the coast, from Cape St. Lewis to York point ; and St. Lewis ^ sound. Fox harbour. Deer harbour. Open bay. St Lewis inlet Biver ^ islands. Fallharboor. Cutter harbour, and Isthmus bay. Cape Club. Middle * rocks. Muddle channel. Muddle harbour, Caribou channel, &c. Battle islands, j.^- Bibbreeft. Battle harbour - • - . • . ip9»ll6 GONTBim, Ftfe 9t CharlM Uud. Cap* St OharlN. 8t Charlw harbour. Bt ChtriM oIuuimI and river. Niger nnnd. Camp iilanda. Table head. St Peter ialanda and bay 118-lSl Ohiteao and Temple bays. Hianley, Antelope, and Pitta harboore. York point 1S1-1S4 Belle-iile. The etralt of Belle'iale. General remarket toondingi, tidci, and cnrrente- ........ |SS-lf9 Wreck bay. Barge bay. Oreenbay. Bed bay. Carrol oore. Blaok bay. Loop bay. Forteau bay. St Clair bay. Blano Sablon. Grand point Wood and Greenly islands. Fisheries • 119-lSS II. 1^ CHAPTER VIL 4Wt GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, KOBTH 00A8T.-.ORAND POINT TO CAPE WHITTLE. General remarks and desoription of the cout, ita climate, productions, iahabitiats, fisheries, &c ........ 136-138 Bradore bay and harbour ••.....■189 Belles Amours, Middle bay. Fire Leagues harbour, and Salmon bay - 141-146 Esquimaux, Old Fort, and Dog isUnds, Whole island, &o. Bonne Eiperanoe har- bour. Esquimaux island, bay, and river. Old Fort channel, island, and bay, Dog islands. Porpoise rooks. Boulet islet and Peril rook. Lobster, Bocky , and Napetepee bays. Shecatioa and Mistanoque harbour. Shag islet and tncL Soundings off the coast .•••••. 146-166 Lieut Lane's Survey between Mistanoque and Cape Mecattina. General remarks, and nature of the coast Cumberland harbour, and Shecatioa bay. Sandy harbour. Fort Augustine. Eagle harbour. Little Fish harbour. Ha-Ha bay. Great island of Mecattina and Island harbour. Mecattina harbour. Portage bay. Cape Me- cattina, Mecattina high land, islands and rooks, and the channels between them 157-164 General remarks respecting the coast between Cape Mecattina and Cape Whittle. Littie Mecattina island, river, and cove. Hare harbour • . • 165-168 Aylmer sound. Spray reef. Doyle islands, and roadstead. Louisa harbour. Har- rington islands. Black and Mi^or reefk. Netegamu river - - 168-171 St Mary ishmds. Cliff islands. Boat ishmds. St Mary rocks. Tender ree£ Middle islands. Watagheistio isUmd and sound . • . • 173-173 Etamamu river and trading-post Southmaker's ledge. Wapitagun liarbonr 176-179 .V t'.'iS CHAPTER Vin. OULF OF ST. LAWBENCB, NORTH COAST.— OAFE WHITTLE TO THE RIVEB ST. JOHN, INCLUDINO THE MINOAN ISLANDS. General desoription of the coast ft'om Lake island to Natashquan point • - 180 Whittie rocks. Wolf bay and islands. Coacoaoho bay and ita harbours • .181 Olomanosheebo river. Wash-sheoootai bay. Musquarro river ... 184 Kegashka bay, Kegashka river, and the coast between it and Natashquan point Mont JoU Cod banks - - - • - - - 185-187 General description of the coast flrom Natashquan point to the Mingan islands • 188 Natashquan river. Littie Natashquan harbour. Washtawooka bay. Agwanns, and Nabesippi rivers. Pashasheebo, Mushkoniatawee, and Washatnagunashka bays. Watcheesho hill. Quetaohoo-Manioouagon, and Peashtebai bays. Appeeletat bay 189 ^ CONraNTS. Tb* Mingtn iilandi, gancnl dMoription • • • • - -IftS 8t 0«n«TieT« and Hunting iilandi. Saintt, and Bowen roeki. Th* harboon of St Oen«Ti«T« and Bctohewon • • • • • - 104 Charlci Uhnd and the bays on tiUwr aid* of it Charlea barbonr • - * 190 Cl«ar>watcr ahoala. Walrua and 8ca Cow iilanda, with the ohanntla laading to Eaquimauz harbour. Green, Oull, Eaquinianx, Fright, and Qoin ialandfi with their reefa and the ohannela between them. Quin channel - - 199-SOl Eaqnimaux harbour ........SOI Niapiaea ialand. Quarrj island and cove. Quarry channeL Large island. Mid- dle reed Birch iilanda. Mingan island. The Ferroqueta • . a03-S0& Mingan channel, between the islanda and the main. Mingan harbour. Long point to 8t Joha riTer ....... aoe-SOS CHAPTER IX. OULF AND UTER OF ST. LAWREKOE, NORTH COAST. — ST. JOHN RIVER TO FOINT DB MONTS ; AND VROH THENCE TO LITTLB BERGERON COVB NEAR THE RIVER SAOVENAY. St John rirer. General description of the coast firom the St John river to the Moiaio river. Magnetic nature of the coaat. Appearance of, and approach to the ahore .........ao9 Magpie, Sawbill, Shallop, Manitou, and Basin rivers. St Charles point Moisio river, and the coast and dangera ..... 212-914 Moiaio shoal. Seven Islands bay ...... S14-S19 The coast A-om the Seven ishindi to Point de Monts. St Margaret river. Cawee iaUnds. Lobster bay. Pentecost river. English point. Egg island and reefs. Calumet river. Caribou point Trinity bay. Point de Monta lighthouse. Point de Monts, and detached rocka ...... 210-227 The North coaflt of the Estuary to St Giles point. St. Augustin cove. Goodbout river. St Nicholas harbour. St Fancras cove. English bay - > 927-230 Manieouagon river. Manicouagon shoaL Outard river. Outard bay. Bersimis river ......... 230-234 Beraimis point and shoala. Jeremy island. Cape Colombier. Qnlnare ahoaL Wild Fowl reef. Plongeur bay. Laval bay. Port Neuf river. Port Nenf aanda 235-237 Mille Yaches point Mille Vaches bay, and the coast to the south-westward. Great and Little Bergeron oovea ....... sag (K. J . ^Ciw..-. i .■r: -, I 4 /■'. r ^eik-:>,.;' CONTENT!. PART II. CHAPTER X. ■i« ■. RIVER 8T. LAWREN'CE, — ORtEM ISLAND AND RED ISLET TO TOE TIUVER8I AMD C0UUUE8 ISLAND. Qtneral remarks - - • - • • • - -Sil B«d iilet and bank. White Ulet and reef. Hare island. Brandy PoU. Hart island south reef. Hare island bank, and Middle bank. Barret ledges, and Middle shoal 348-340 The South shore belew the Traverse, Qreen island, and its western reef. Caoona. Percee rocks. Kiver Loup. Pilgrim shoal. Pilgrim islands. Bank of St. Andr£. Kamounucu islands. Cape Diable. River Uuellc. Shoals of St. Anne. English bank 243-aSl The South channel, A-om Green island to the Brandy Pots, and from the Brandy PoU to the Traverse ..---.- 252-296 The North shore below Coudres island. Voches and Lark points, with their reefs. Echafhud islet, and Basque road. Dogi, Salmon, and Eagle capes. Mur> ray bay. Goose cape and Cape Martin . ■ . • - 257-261 The North channel, from Bergeron cove to Coudres island • • 261-263 Tides in both channels -....*. 264-266 CHAPTEll XL RIVKR ST. LAWRENCE ; TUG SOCTn, MIDDLE, AND NORTH TRAVERSES TO QUEBEC. General description of the South, Middle, and North channels - - 267-269 South shore from St. Roque to St Thomas. South Traverse, light- vessel, and buoys. South bank. Red buoy, and shoal patches in the south- west part of the South Tra^ verse. Bank of St Thomas .-•... 269-272 North side of the South Traverse, including the Middle Ground and other shoals. Seal islands. Pillars islets ; lighthouse. South rock. Goose IsUnd reef. Goose and Crane islands. Beaujeu bank . ■ . . . 272-274 Directions, anchorages, and tides ••>-•. 274-380 The South shore above the Traverse. Wye rocks. Berthier. Belle Chasse island and rock. St Yallier. Bank of St Vallier. St MicheL Beaumont reefs. Levi point -«-.---. 281-283 Ishinds and shoals forming the northern side of the South channel Crane island spit Margarets Tail. Grosse Patch and Quarantine anchorage at Grosse island. Grosse Island Tail. Banks of Madame, and Madame reef. Isle of Orleans. Patrick hole. Basin and harbour of Quebec - ■^ ~ 283-287 Directions above Crane island. Tides ...... 289 North channel Passage between Coudres island and the North shore. Eboulemens. St Paul bay. Petite Riviere, and the coast to Cape Tourmente. Coudres island. Prairie bay, Prairie shoal, and directions for the anchorage. Shoals forming the south side of the North channel )^d ^^c anchorage under the west end of Coudres in easterly winds. Neptune rock, Burnt cape ledge, and BruI6 banks. North Traverse. Traverse spit Eastern and Western arrows of the North Traverse, West sand, with the leading marks. Passage firom the Narrows to the South channel • - • - ' • • •• 298-206 10 CONTENTS. Direetioiu for the North channel and Traverse. Tides Orleans channel ■•...-> Table showing the rise and ML of the tides, with remarks on them ■ Ps«e 307-299 . 300 - 301 a^^c' CHAPTER Xn. ti BIVER ST. LA WHENCE ; THE BITER SAOUENAT ; AND THE ST. LAWBENOE ABOVE QUEBEC. , , „,f , ., ^;. j,^ Sagnenay river. General description and remarks .... 30s The entrance of the Sagaenay. St. Catherine bay. Tadousao. Directions for entering the Saguenay -...--. 305>307 Anchorages in Barque cove, St. Etienne, St. Louis isle, St Barthelemi isle, St. Jean bay, Etemite cove, Descente des Femmes core, Ah-ah bay, Fetites isles, and below point Roches. Chicoutimi ...... 308 The river St Lawrence from Quebec to Montreal ... Positions of Buoys and Beacons in the Gulf and Biver of St Lawrence Table of Positions .--..- Table of Variations ....--- . i. :'.;■ THE ST. LAWRENCE PILOT. PART I. CHAPTER I. I.—- The navigation of the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence has always been supposed to be attended with a considerable degree of difficulty and danger, and the numerous accidents which are constantly occurring to vessels there seem to show that the opinion is well founded. The want of soundings, in many parts, near the shores ; the irregularity of the tides and currents ; the severity of the climate, espe- cially towards the close of the navigable season ; and, above all, the frequent fogs, are difficulties which may well cause much anxiety in the mind of the seaman, and which call for the exercise of all his vigilance, prudence, and ability. Nevertheless, a large proportion of the losses which annually take place may justly be attributed to other than these natural and irremediable causes. Erroneous charts, a want of knowledge of the direction and strength of the tides and currents, and a false varia- tion of the compass, are, although not the only, certainly the most frequent causes of shipwreck in the St. Lawrence. It is hoped that these last will be removed by the Admiralty survey, and by these directions and remarks, written to accompany that survey. In the Admiralty charts will be found accurate soundings, taken with Massey's patent sounding machine, which gives the depth independent of the effect of currents or drift of the vessel. The use of this instrument cannot be too strongly recommended, for correct soundings may be obtained with it in 30 fathoms of water without heaving to, if the vessel be not 14 OULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAP. I. I 1 I , i ! sailing at a rate exceeding 6 knots ; and no vessel ought to be permitted to run so fast, in a thick fog or dark night, when in tlie vicinity of land or other danger. Furnished with this instrument, or, instead of it, with Burt's buoy and nipper, and with correct charts, a vessel may run in safety up the St. Lawrence as high as Green island. In short, there, as elsewhere, correct soundings are the best of all guides to the navigator. Vtae VAaiATXOV, given in Des Barres' charts, was probably correct for the time when the charts were made, about 1760 ; and though greatly changed since, has been copied nevertheless into most of the charts in general use. For instance, in some of those charts the variation at Anticosti is given as 17° West, too little by three quarters of a point. The effect of this upon the run of a vessel from the entrance of the Gulf to Anticosti, or from the latter to Point de Monts, will be obvious to any seaman, and has doubtless occasionally been one cause of shipwreck. The navigator is reminded that the amount of the variation of the com- pass differs nearly 24°, or two points, between the limits of the places described in this work ; viz., at Belle-isle, 39°, and Quebec 15^°, at the beginning of the year 1860; as also that its annual change is com- paratively great, amounting to an increase of 6 and 7 minutes annually. The 9BVIATXOW or local attraction of the compass needle is another source of error, independent of charts altogether, which it is astonishing to find obtaining so little attention, particularly in the merchant service^ considering how much has been written concerning it of late years. This subject is one of great importance in approaching and navigating the Gulf, as from the increase of tha magnetic dip, and the decrease in the horizontal magnetic force that is found here — two elements affecting the ship's magnetism — the original deviation of the compass, if determined in England will, in all probability, be much increased. In many vessels it has been ascertained by direct observation, that their maximum devia- tions have been increased by one third. Examples — H. M. S. PyladeSy in England, 15° ; at Sydney, Cape Breton island, I9^°. H. M. S. Cyclops, in England, 7^° ; at St. Johns, Newfoundland, 10°. wuLmnma attkaotsow of tbe SHomas. — ^An opinion is preva- lent that the compasses of vessels are disturbed in the Gulf and River, and such disturbance has been attributed to the magnetic ores of iron in the hills, particularly those of the north coast. The magnetic oxide of iron does exist abundantly, and attracts the needle very powerfully at some points, particularly along the coast from the Bay of Seven Islands eastward. Among the Miugan islands, the variation was found to vary from this cause from 19° to 31° West. At Fort Neuf, and on Manicouagon OBAP. 1.3 VABIATION AND DEVIATION.— ICE. li point, the needle was also disturbed. But these effects were only noticed when the instrument was placed on the shore. In two instances only, when sailing within 2 miles of the si ore, was any effect of the kind observed upon the compasses on board the Chtlnare,* and then only to the amount of a few degrees. When running from place to place, at greater distances from the coast, nothing of the Lind was noticed ; so that in nine cases out of ten where this source of erroneous reckoning has been alleged as the cause of accidents to vessels, they probably originated either in errors of the chart or in the local attraction on board the vessels themselves. loa. — Among the difficulties of the navigation may be mentioned the ice. In spring, generally in the month of May, the entrance and eastern parts of the Gulf are frequently covered with drift ice, and vessels are sometimes beset by it for many days. Being unprepared for contending with 111 in danger, they often suffer from it, and are occasionally lost ; but serious accidents from this cause do not frequently occur, because the ice is generally more or less in a melting state from the powerful effect of the sun in spring. In the fall of the year accidents from ice seldom happen, except when the •vfr^inter commences unusually early, or when vessels have lingered imprudently late, from the temptation of obtaining high freights. At Quebec, taking the mean of a number of years, the navigation is closed by ice from the 25th of November to the 25th of April. The earliest closing observed was on the 20th of November, and the earliest opening on the 15th of April. The St. Lawrence seldom freezes across opposite the city of Quebec, being kept open by the rapid tides in the comparatively narrow channel there ; but in some of the years wherein an ice-bridge, as it is termed, has been formed, the opening of the naviga- tion has been delayed until past the first week in May. As a general rule, the navigation is considered unsafe after the 15th of November or before the 25th April ; and even after this last-named date, vessels are often embarrassed by drift ice, which, however, a steamer would probably often be able to force her way through. As we proceed down the St. Lawrence, and across the Gulf towards the open Atlantic, the harbours are later in closing, and earlier in opening ; except it be on the northern shores of the Gulf and of Newfoundland. At Charlottetown, Prince Edward island, taking the mean of ten years* observations, the harbour was closed by ice on the 21st of December, and opened on the 15th of April. In one of those years, the harbour was * The BChooner in which the Admiralty aurrey was cairied on. 16 GULF AND BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAT. I. Iil:h dear of ice on the let of April, and in another year it remained open until the 27th of December ; but, as a general rule, the navigation is not considered safe even in this southern part of the Gulf after the first week in December, or before the 15th of April. ,,, TOau. — But all danger from ice is far less than that which arises from the prevalence of fogs : they may occur at any time during the open or navigable season, but are most frequent in the early part of summer ; they are rare, and never of long continuance, during westerly winds, but seldom fail to accompany an easterly wind of any strength or duration. The above general ol •^'ation is subject, however, to restriction, accord- ing to locality or season. Thus winds between the South and West, which are usually clear weather winds above Anticosti, are frequently accom- panied with fog in the eastern parts of the Gulf. Winds between the South and East are almost always accompanied with rain and fog in every part. E.N.E. winds above Point de Monts are often E.S.E. or S.E. winds in the Gulf, changed in direction by the high lands of the south coast, and have therefore in general the same foggy character. Winds of consider- able strength and duration are here meant, and which probably extend over great distances. Moderate and partial fine weather winds may occur without fog at any season and in any locality. In the early part of the navigable season, especially in the months of April and May, clear weather, N.E. winds are of frequent occurrence, and they also sometimes occur at other seasons, in every part of the Gulf and River. The fogs sometimes last several days in succession, and to a vessel either running up or beating down, during their continuance, there is no safe guide but the constant use of the deep-sea lead, with a chart containing correct soundings. The fogs, which nccompany easterly gales, extend high up into the atmosphere, and cannot be looked over from any part of the rigging of a ship. They, however, are not so thick as those Avhich occur in calms after a strong wind, and which are frequently so dense as to conceal a vessel within hail ; whilst the former often, but not always, admit the land, or other objects, to be distinguished at the distance of half a mile, or more, in the daytime. The dense fogs, which occur in calms, or even in very light winds, often extend only to small elevations above the sea ; so that it sometimes happens, that when objects are hidden at the distance of 50 yards from the deck, they can be plainly seen by a person 50 or 60 feet up the rigging. In the months of October and November the fogs and rain that accompany easterly gales, are re-placed by thick snow, which causes equal embarrass- ment to the navigator. t QHJlP. I.] FOGS. — WINDS. 17 I. — The prevailing winds, during the navigable seaaon, are either directly up or directly down the Estuary, following the course of the chains of high lands on either side of the great valley of the St. Lawrence. Thus a S.E. wind in the Gulf becomes E.S.E. between Anticosti and the south coast, E.N.E. above Point de Monts, and N.E. above Green island. The westerly winds do not appear to be so much guided in direction by the high lands, excepting along the south coast, where we have observed a W.S.W. wind at the island of Bic become West, W.N.W., and N.W., as we ran down along the high and curved south coast, until it became a N.N.W. wind at Cape Gasp6. These winds frequently blow strong for three or four days in succession ; the westerly winds being almost always accompanied with fine, dry, clear, and sunny weather ; the easterly winds as frequently the contrary, cold, wet, and In the spring, the easterly winds most prevail, frequently blowing for several weeks in succession. As the summer advances, the westerly winds become more frequent, and the S.W. wind may be said to be the prevailing wind in summer in all parts of the Kiver and Gulf. Light South winds take place occasionally ; but North winds are not common in summer, although they sometimes occur. Steady N.W. winds do not blow frequently before September, excepting for a few hours at a time, when they generally succeed easterly winds which have died away to a calm, forming the commencement of strong winds, and usually veering to the S.W. The N.W. wind is dry, with bright clear sky, flying clouds, and showers. After the autumnal equinox, winds to the northward of West become more common, and are then often strong steady winds of con- siderable duration. Tu the months of October and November the N.W. wind frequently blows with great violence in heavy squalls, with passing showers of hail and snow, and attended with sharp frost. Thunder storms are not uncommon in July and August ; they seldom last above an hour or two ; but the wind proceeding from them is in general violent and sudden, particularly when near the mountainous part of the coast ; sail should, therefore, be fully and quickly reduced on their approach. Strong winds seldom veer quickly from one quarter of the compass to another directly or nearly contrary : in general they die away by degrees to a calm, and are succeeded hf a wind in the opposite direction. It is not meant, however, by this observation, that they may not veer to the amount of several points. N.W. winds seldom or never veer round by North and N.E. to East and S.E. ; but they do frequently, by degrees, to the S.W., after becoming moderate. S.W. winds seldom veer by the N.W. and North to the eastward, but sometimes by the South to S.E. and East. [ST. L.] — ^VOL. I. 8 18 OULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. t. -Easterly winds generally decrease to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind from the opposite direction. Tn the fine weather westerly winds of summer, a fresh top-gallant breeze will often decrease to a light breeze or calm at night, and spring up again from the same quarter on the following morning : under these circumstances only may a and breeze off the north coast be looked for. The same has been observed off the south coast also, but not so decidedly or extending so far off shore. The north land wind may occasionally be carried nearly over to the south coast just before daylight, but the south land wind seldom extends more than five or six miles off, and that very rarely. Under the same circumstances, that is with a fine weather westerly wind going down with the sun, a S.W. land breeze will frequently . be found blowing off the north coast of Anticosti at night and during the early part of the morning. If, however, the weather be not settled fair, and the wind does not fall with the sun, it will usually prove worse than useless to run a vessel close in shore at night in the hope of a breeze off the land. Such is the usual course of the winds in common seasons, in which a very heavy gale of wind will probably not be experienced from May to October, although' close-reefed topsail breezes are usually common enough. Occasionally, however, there are years, the character of which is decidedly stormy. Gales of wind, of considerable strength, then follow each other in quick succession and from opposite quarters. III;:!, tOMtara*. — The marine barometer, which is at all times of great use to the navigator, becomes particularly so in such seasons ; and the following remarks upon its general indications, when taken in connexion with the usual course of the winds and weather in the St. Lawrence, may, therefore, be useful. The barometer has ordinarily a range from 29 to 30*5 inches in the Gulf and River during the navigable season, and its changes accompany those of the winds and weather with a considerable degree of constancy. The fluctuations of the barometric . column are much greater and more frequent there than in lower latitudes; and sudden alternations, which in other climates would be alarming, may occur there without being followed by any corresponding change either in the wind or weather. But the navigator should not be inattentive to those minor changes, as a constant attention to the instrument can alone enable him to appreciate those decisive indications of the mercury which seldom , or never prove deceptive. The following remarks will apply to those well marked changes which usually indicate the approach of a gale pf considerable strength, or of a shift of wind and weather ; the correct anticipation of which is often of the utmost consequence to the safety of a vessel, as well as to the length of her voyage. fur. l] SAROMETER. I* When, after a cont' nuance of westerly winds and fine weather, the barometer has lisen nearly to its greatest height, say some tenths above 80 inches, or begins to fall a little, an easterly wind may be soon expected, 'f to this notice given by the barometer be added a warm hazy atmosphere during the day, and a heavy precipitation of dew at night, with very bright twinkling stars, or a coloured aurora borealis, the approach of a southerly or an easterly wind is almost certain. If land be in sight at such a time, and appears much distorted by terrestrial refraction, or if vessels in sight have the relative proportions of their hull and sails changed by the mirage, or present double or treble images, such appearances will render the before probable indications of the barometer certain. At the commencement the southerly or easterly wind will probably be light with fine clear weather, but this will not last above a few hours if the barometer continues to fall ; on the contrary the wind will gradually increase, and as it does so the sky will become overcast by degrees until it is completely clouded. Rain and fog will follow, and continue during the continuance of the southerly or easterly wind with little intermission, until they are dissipated by a fresh breeze from the contrary quarter. • .• . ,. A»K.'i.r;*4i If the fall of the barometer, during the continuance of the southerly or easterly wind, be very slow, the gale will probably continue, and not be violent : if rapid, it will probably be of short duration, and of greater strength : at any rate, when the mercury falls towards 29 inches, a chan^'e is certainly at hand, and the gale will in general come from the N.W. The strength of this succeeding gale will be in proportion to the fall of the barometer, and to the strength of the southerly or easterly gale which preceded it. In such a cose there is seldom many hours interval between the one gale and the other. The southerly or easterly wind geuerally dies away to calm, and in a very few hours, or sometimes in m»ch less time, the N.W. gale springs up. A heavy cross sea remains for some time from the previous gale. The barometer sometimes begins to rise in the interval of the calm which precedes the N.W. gale, at others at its commen<:ement ; the fog and ram cease, and the weather becomes quite clear, generally in a few hours, and sometimes almost immediately. The strength of the westerly gale is usually greatest soon after its commencement, and diminishes as the barometer rises, veering gradually to the West and S.W. It is worthy of remark, that the circumstances just mentioned are exactly the reverse of those attending the easterly gale. The latter usually commences with clear weather and a high barometer, light at first from the South or S.B., and gradually increasing as it veers to the eastward, with a falling barometer. -/--.■•.-' -l -: :;■:; iv. '-'r— Vi'y;;\->jtif v^i"' ■<^y-:.:^■'l::d ■^^'■M iS b2 20 OCLF AND BITER ST. LAWRENCE, [oKir. 1. !:i m ^ To return to the westerlj gale. If, after it has veered to S.W. and become moderate, the barometer remains steady at a moderate height, fine weather may be expected. If it remains at a considerable height, but still fluctuating and unsteady, within certain limits, variable, but not heavy winds, and variable weather may be expected. If, on the contrary, it rises quickly to a great height, a repetition of the southerly or easterly gale will not be improbable. Seasons have been experienced in which the barometer may be said to have been no sooner blown up by one wind, than it has been blown down by another, and this stormy alternation to have continued for several months, whilst in others there has been scarcely R double-reefed top-sail breeze during the whole summer. There is in fact so great a difference in the phenomena of the weather in different seasons, that it becomes difilcult to write anything respecting it that shall not be liable to many exceptions. There are, however, some strongly marked cases of connexion between the indications of the barometer and changes of the winds and weather which have been subject to few, or almost no exceptions. The first of these cases is that most common one, of a southerly or an easterly gale, with a falling barometer, being always wet and foggy, and succeeded by a strong wind ftom the opposite quarter, with a rising barometer, and fine weather. A second case, not of so frequent occurrence in common seasons, excepting in spring or early in summer, is the north-east wind with a rising baro- meter ; which, although it may not be at first for a few hours, will almost always become fine and clear, and end in fine weather. A third case may be considered certain : if the barometer fall suddenly and greatly at any time, a northerly, and most probably a N.W. gale, of great strength may be confidently expected. It does not follow that it will bo immediate, for it may be preceded by a strong gale from S.W. for a few hours, during which the barometer will seldom rise, and even, probably, continue to fall ; but when the S.W. gale dies away the northerly or N.W. will soon succeed, with a rising barometer. In conclusion, it may be remarked, that as, on the one hand, a consider- able fall of the' barometer may occur without being followed by a strong wind, so, on the other, a breeze of considerable strength may come on without any indication from the barometer; but not anything that deserves the name of a gale. There has never, within our experience, occurred a gale so heavy as to be of serious consequence to a good vessel, the approach of which has not been indicated by the barometer. But it must be remem- bered that a high barometer in this climate, and under the circumstances which have been mentioned, is often indicative of a southerly or an easterly £ale. It is remarkable that in the Gulf and Estuary of the St. Lawrence a high barometer may be considered as the forerunner of wet and foggy CBAP. I.] BABOMITEB. 4 -weather, which usually accompanies its fall ; whilst a low barometer renders it equally probable that dry weather will ensue, since it as often accompanies its rise. The marine barometer, therefore, is of the greatest assistance in the navigation of the Oulf and River ; and by attending constantly to its state and changoi*, with refbrenco to the winds and weather which preceded them, combined with the indications afforded by the appearance of the sky, &c., those changes of the wind and weather which are about to take place may be anticipated with a degree of cer> tainty sufficient, in most cases, to enable a vessel to avoid being caught on a lee-shore or in an unsafe anchorage, as well as to regulate her course in anticipation of the coming change. '^'■■!^<\ S.>, ■^ ■ \ »> t' '. '■ t'l^'^'l « •.j*.-;.i^v; :T:?^^- 1^ 29 ■ ., • « K'- r CHAPTER II. OUBRENTS AND TIDAL STREAMS IN THE OULF AND BIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE. ^„h. «v..;- . ;. • •.—The time of high water at full and change, at different places, will be found in the Table at the end of thiH* work. Local peculiarities will bo mentioned in their proper places. It is intended here only to give a general description of those great currents and tidal streamn, which, although they may bo subject to occasional interruption and modification, seem, nevertheless, to depend on constantly existing causes. Those currents extend over very largo spaces, though varying according to locality and other circumstances ; and they are altogether so important a feature in the navigation, that some general knowledge respecting them is indispensable, both to the safety and expedition of vessels in the Gulf and Estuary of the St. Lawrence. In the main entrance of the Gulf, between Newfoundland and Cape Breton island, a current is very often found setting out to tho south-eastward during westerly winds, or in calm weather ; but easterly winds retard it, and sometimes cause it to run in tho contrary direction. It is frequently deflected to the southward towards Cape Breton island by northerly winds, and by the current from the northward which has entered the Gulf through the Strait of Belle-isle. But winds, t>oth present and at a distance, act so powerfully and irregularly on tho rate and direction of the currents and tides in this entrance of the Gulf, as to render it difficult to say anything respecting them that is not. subject to exceptions. Thronffh BTBAIT of BBli&a-lS&a. — The reality of a current inwards through the Strait of Belle-isle, is confirmed by the presence of icebergs, which it transports into the Gulf every summer, against the prevailing Bouth-west winds ; frequently carrying them as far as Mecattina, and Bometimes even to the neighbourhood of the uast point of Anticosti. It is probable that this is a branch of the great current from Davis Strait, which is known to run along the coast of Labrador, and to transport numerous icebergs far *-> the southward every year. This current will be mentioned again under the head of the Strait of Belle-isle. Its strength is very much increased by a prevalence of north-east winds, at such times it runs at the rate of 2 knots through the Strait, and for 30 to 40 miles farther to the westward ; diminishing gradually in force as it spreads out in the wider parts of the Gulf. Usually, however, ill! JDUMf, II.] CURRENTS AND TIDES. 93 {(■ rato is much lets. A^ times, when touth*weit winds preT»il, it becomes very weak ; and it h&n even boon reported tliat a current has boon obuerved setting out of the Gulf, in a contrary direction to the north-east for days together, but this was jiorer observed by ui during either of the three seasuiiM whicli wu piisscd there. Tliero is, however, no doubt that this current is c.\i i omely irregular, as might be expected at the narrow outlet of a great inland sea, vvlicro winds, both within and without, must of necessity possoHH great influonce. After entering tho Gulf, the current runs along the north or Labrador coast, at a distance of 2 or 3 miles from tlie outer islands, leaving a narrow space inshore, in which the streams of tho tides, when uninfluenced by winds, are tolerably regular. Passing outside of Mistanoquo, the islands of Great Mocattina and tho South Makers lodge, it pursues a direction given to it by the trending of the coast, till it is turned gradually to the southward, by tho weak current which is often found coming from the westward between Anticosti and tho north coast, during westerly winds, and which is set ofi" to tho southward from Natashquan point. The united streams continue their southern course at a rate diminishing as they become more widely spread, and which seldom exceeds half a knot ; and finally, joining the main downward current out of the St. Lawrence, of which an account will be given immediately, they all pursue a south-east direction towards the main entrance of the Gulf, between Cape Ray and the island of St. Paul. It is this current from the northward which is felt by vessels crossing from off tho Bird rocks towards Anticosti, and which, together with neglecting to allow for the local attraction of the compass, has been the principal cause of vessels so often finding themselves unexpectedly on the south coast. Many shipwrecks have arisen from this cause near Capo Rosier, Gasp£, Mai bay, &c. Both these currents, viz., that from the northward, and the main down-' ward current of the St. Lawrence, are modified by the tides, but in a way directly contrary ; for the northern current in through the Strait of Belle- isle is accelerated by the flood and checked by the ebb, whilst the other is accelerated by the ebb and checked by the flood tide. These modifying causes, namely, the tides and winds, give rise to various combinations and consequent irregularities in the direction and strength of these streams, which it is extremely difficult at aH times to estimate and allow for correctly. ' acAZir pmtMmmr of tue szvam.— Tho current along the south coast appears to be superficioli at least it was found sq in the lower parts of the Estuary, where dbservatlOns upbn the specific gravity of the water on the surface, and taken up from different depths, proved that the v^^ater of the St. Lawrence and its numerous tributary streams was widely diffused over the u GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [CQAP. n. Estuary.* It has also been observed that the current is strongest in spring, soon after the opening of the navigation, when the rivers are swelled by :|l * The following are given out of a number of observations, made on board the Gubtare, not alone with reference to the nature of the current, but as also showing, that a very moderate degree of agitation of the water is sufScient at times to mingle the wanner surface water with the colder substrata, which always exist at a few fathoms of depth, and thus, by a reduction of temperature of the surface, produce, if the state of the air and dew point be favourable, one of those low fogs, which can often be seen over from the mast-head. On the 8th July, 1831, the vessel crossed from near Itlatan, on the south coast, to St. Nicholas harbour on the north, with a light S.W. wind and fine weather, and during the flood tide ; when near the middle of the Estuary, the depth was 132 fathoms over a bottom of blue mud. The temperature of the air 64° Fahrenheit Specific Rravity (examined at C0° Fabr.) Dew point by Daniel's Hygrometer 58° Water at the surface 60° - - - - i.oiso „ 30 fathoms 35° .... 1.0260 „ 50 fathoms 34° ..... 1.0265 A fresh breeze from the westward commenced in the evening, and continued all night, which reduced the temperature of the surface water to 39° by 9 a.m,, on the morning of the 9th, when the temperature of the air was 62° with a dense fog, the wind having died away to a light breeze. The fog was seen over from the rigging 40 or 50 feet above the ■ea. At noon it was calm, and the temperature of the surface had risen to 57°, and the fog in consequence had nearly, but not entirely, disappeared. On the 9th July, 1831, at noon, the vessel was becalmed 2 or 3 miles to the southward of Point de Monts, and carried to the S.S.E., at the rate of 1^ knots, by the current. It was nearly high water by the shore, and consequently, about an hour and a half before the time when the stream of flood ceases. Specific gravity (examined at C0° Falir.) »» »> n 62° 61° 57° 44° 1 By Six's 40° I Register 38° J Therm. 35° 1.0172 1.0275 The temperature of the air ... Dew point - - - water at the surface „ i a. fathom „ 5 fathoms „ 10 fathoms „ „ 100 fathoms During the night there was a very strong breeze, which, by the morning of the 10th, had reduced the temperature of the surface water to 37°, and the air to 44°. On the 19th June, 1832, Point de Monts, N. 61° E. distant 7 miles. Time of tide, half ebb. Wind light, from the westward. Bate of current, 2 knots to the S.S.E. The temperature of the air - Dew point n n n water at the surface 10 fathoms 20 fathoms > 47 fathoms • 104 fathoms On this last occasion, the line and attached machine remained perpendicular, from which it was inferred that the whole body of water moved down the Estuary in the ebb tide. Specific gravity (examined at 60° Fahr.) 49° 44° 44° - 1'0189 37i° - 1-0232 39° - 1'0246 33° - 1-0262 36° - 1-0275 !^:"i!! .»?:^.v CHAP, n.] CURRENTS AND XmES. 90 the recently dissolved snows of the winter. But although, generally speak- ing, there seems no doubt that this current is the tribute of the St. Law- rence on its way to the ocean ; yet, in the upper part of the Estuary it is not alone and at all times caused by the discharge of the St. Lawrence, but depends also upon peculiarities in the set of the tides. Thus, when our observations had confirmed the truth of the report that the current always ran down on the south side of the Estuary from a few miles below Bed island towards the island of Bic, we could not at first account for the fact, for it appeared impossible that this could be the comparatively fresh water of the St. Lawrence flowing on the surface towards the sea, when we knew that the whole body a few miles above from shore to shore on either side of Hare island, and also in the Saguenay river, was running up during the flood tide.. Attention and numerous observations, together with an examination of the temperature and specific gravity of the water, informed us that this was an eddy flood, which is thus explained. The flood tide ascends in a wide channel more than 100 fathoms deep, when it arrives at the comparatively narrow pass formed by Green island. Red Islet reef, and the extensive shoals off" the entrance of the Saguenay river it is obstructed thereby, as well as by the shoalness of the channel to the southward of Hare island. There is not room for so great a volume of water to pass, and part of it is in consequence turned back and forms an eddy flood setting from below Red Islet reef towards the Razade islets, as shown by the arrows in the chart. During the ebb tide, the stream of the Saguenay sets over to the southward in the same direction ; hence the current on that side is always down.* At the time of the preceding observations the line remained perpendicular only as long as the machine was not lowered down beyond 3 fathoms from the surface. At 5 fathoms the line drew strongly out to the N.N.W., and still more strongly when the machine was lowered to greater depths. Hence it appeared, that in the flood tide, only a thin super- stratum of comparatively light and warm water moves down, and that the colder and heavier water beneath is either stationary, or moving up the Estuary. It also appears fVom the preceding, and many other similar observations, that in fine weather, the comparatively warm and fresh water of the St Lawrence, and its numerous tributary streams, floats on the surface, but that when the waters are agitated, by any cause, it becomes mingled with the constantly cold water beneath. The temperature of the surface, therefore, depends less upon the warmth than upon the strength of the winds. * Since the eddy flood above mentioned exercises a considerable influence over the climate near the shore off which it runs (its course being from the Red Islet reef passing near the Bazade islets to the island of Bic) ; and also occasions those dense and low fogs, and peculiar forms of mirage, or terrestrial refraction, which depend upon a temperature of the surface water lower than that of the air, or its dew point, it may not be altogether devoid of interest to give a few additional remarks concerning it Of the fact of its being really the stream of flood, although nmning down the Estuary, there was ample opportunity of ascertaining ; especially during the nine or ten days the vessel was employed in sounding within the limits above mentioned ; and during which GULF. AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap, n^ There is no upward stream of the tide (excepting so close in-shore as to be useless to ships) all along the south coast from Cape Gasp6 to a few many observations were made with the object of ascertaining the set, strength, and course of this peculiar stream. The remarks made on the 19th July 1831, are selected as being alone nearly sufficient to establish the fact of this part of the general downward stream, or current, being the flood tide. The Gulnare was then at anchor, in 10 fitthoms, about 1 mile N.E. of the eastern Razade islet In the last quarter ebb the stream ceased, being pre- Tented from coming to us by the shoals, which are dry at low water, between Green and Basque islands and the main, but it still coutinued to run strongly down a short distance outside of our anchorage. There was no stream at the vessel until it was past a quarter flood by the shore, when the downward stream commenced and continued during the remainder of the flood at a greater rate than during the preceding or following ebbs. Soon after high water by the shore the downward stream again ceased for a short time, after which the first of the ebb came off the shoals and then turned down the estuary as before. Now it appears that the eddy flood did not reach us till the end of the first quarter flood by the shore, because time was necessary for the tide to ascend the deep and unobstructed channel to the northward, and to rise and accumulate at the obstructed part of the channel above us, before it was compelled in part to retrograde, and descend to us through a distance of 16 or 17 miles- It ceased again soon after high water, because the stream of flood had ceased above, there being only a few minutes' difference in the times of high water at the two places. A ship becalmed below the Red Islet reef was brought down to the Gulnare by the eddy flood, and drifted past about half a mile outside of her. And, on another occasion, during the flood tide, when she sailed from near Red Islet to off Bicquette, passing within 2 or 3 miles of the 'Aazades, she was carried a-head of her reckoning at the average rate of 2| miles 7 .r hour. When beating against a westerly wind, on many occasions, between the island of Bic and the Razades, she never could gain ground to windward, excepting during the last quarter of the ebb and the first of the flood tide. The specific gravity of the water of this stream during flood tide was found to be nearly as great as the surface water of the Gulf, and higher than that of the Estuary lower down ; and it was also, like the latter, when taken from considerable depths, or when violently agitated by strong winds, extremely cold. Its temperature was usually between 38° and 45°, and was never found higher than 49°, Fahrenheit. It was seen as low as 39° in every month from June to September inclusive, and that at times and under circtmi- stances when the surface water of the Estuary in other parts was usually about 60°, and when the fresh water of the St Lawrence above was at an equally high temperature. The great specific gravity and low temperature of this stream are incompatible with the popular supposition of its being, in this part, the lighter and fresher water of the St. Lawrence flowing on the surface towards the sea. To the same cause which gives rise to the retrograde course of this stream of flood must also be attributed its superior specific gravity and low temperature. For as the great body of the flood tide, moving in the deep North channel, meets with resistance at the shoals of the Saguenay and Red islet, the cold water of the Estuary, which everywhere exists at a very moderate depth, is forced to the surface, and thus, together with the irregular bottom, gives rise to the violent whirls and ripples which abound in that vicinity. The thin super- stratum of warmer water is thus mingled with, and lost, in the superior quantify of colder water from beneath, and a great reduction of temperature effected. May not the low temperature often found over shoals in the sea be attributed to a similar cauic, and especially the lower temperature of the water on the Bank of Newfoundland, as OBAP. XI.3 CURRENTS AND TIDES. tR miles below Bed Islet, in consequence of the union of this eddy flood with . the main current of the river ; and they have, therefore, so much influence on the navigation that it will be useful to trace their course more particularly. Commencing from a short distance below the Red Islet reef, the current is there very strong — about 4 knots. It decreases in velocity as it pro- ceeds to the south-eastward, slanting over towards the Bazade islets ; off which its rate is from 2 to 3 knots. It runs strongly along the northern edge of the Bank of Soundings off* the south coast, upon which, especially in spring tides, a weak stream of flood will be found flowing in the oppo- site direction, and the boundary of the two streams is usually marked by a strong ripple. From Father point to Cape Chatte, the rate of the down- ward current varies from a half to 2 knots, according to the tide, direction of the winds, and season of year. During the ebb tide the stream runs down on both sides, stronger on the south than the north coast, and weakest in the middle of the Estuary. It is deflected, or turned off to the southward, by the Points Mille-Vaches, Bersimis, Manicouagan, and Point de Monts, and by the ebbing streams of the large rivers between them, a circumstance which should be care- fully attended to by vessels coming up with a northerly wind ; as they will infallibly be set over to the southward upon a lee shore, if they do not make the necessary allowance by keeping their wind well over to the northward. During the flood tide this stream still continues to run down outside the Bank of Soundings off the south coast, although with diminished velocity, and is felt about half way over towards the north shore. In the middle of the Estuary there is usually slack water ; whilst along the north coast the stream of flood is regular in its recurrence, increasing in force as we ascend the Estuary. The strength of the stream of flood is greatest in- shore, and diminishes as we proceed over to the southward, till at the distance of about 3 leagues it becomes insensible. These differences in the strength and direction of the streams produce strong ripples 'i various parts of the Estuary, but their position varies with the different times of tide, and perhaps from other causes, so that they cannot safely be trusted for any guidance to the seaman. Round Point de Monts there is little or no stream of flood, excepting very close in-shore ; the downward current is constant, or nearly so, off that point ; and it requires a fast-sailing vessel to beat round it against a compared with the neighbouring sea ? for the great current, 'which brings the icebergs down along the coast of Labrador from the northward, must meet with obstruction in its course to the southward ftom these banks, and the cold water, in consequence, be forced to the surface ; and, if this be so, we may probably find a reason for the prevalence of fogs upon these Banks. GULF AND RIVEB ST. LAWHQNCE. [OHAP. n* westerly wind. Point de Monts turns this current over to the S.S.E., at a rate varying from 1 to 2 knots ; so that a vessel, having a west wind, and standing over to the southward on the starboard tack, will be carried towards the south coast at a rapid rate, having the current on her weather quarter; during her board back to the northward, she will be retarded, the current being then directly opposed to her course. When sailing at the rate of 4 knots, it will usually require only about half the time to go from near Point de Monts over to the south coast, that it will take to return from the latter to the former. This is a most important circum- stance, which it is necessary to carefully guard against, when beating up the Estuary in this part during dark nights, and, especially, in foggy -weather. ' Below Point de Monts the current is no longer felt near the north coast, nor, indeed, anywhere to the northward of a line joining Point de Mont8| and Anticosti, It is ..onfined to the neighbourhood of the south coast, which it follows in its curve to the southward, running strongly past Cape Gasp^, Flat island, and Bonaventure island ; whence, curving gradually to the south and south-east, it continues its course towards the entrance of the Gulf, with a rate very much lessened in consequence of the great space over which it is now spread. The usual breadth of this stream from Magdalen river to Cape Gaspe is 9 or 12 miles ; but this, we believe, is not uniform. When south-west winds prevail, it appears that this current, or a branch of it, is driven over from the vicinity of Magdalen riyer towards Anti- costi ; part of the stream running round the west point of that island sets across nearly towards Large island, (one of the Mingan islands,) whence turning gradually down outside the Mingan and Esquimaux islands, and along the north coast, it sweeps round the curve to the westward of Natashquan point, and is turned off to the southward, as has been already mentioned in page 23. The other part sweeps round the large curve, or bay, between the west and south-west points of Anticosti, and is turned off to the southward by the latter point, frequently causing a great ripple off it, which has been mistaken for breakers on a much more extensive reef than exists there. The rate of this current has been noted, off different parts of the south coast between Capes Chatte and Gaspe, in the months of June, July, August, and September, and in different years, and scarcely ever found the same. It varied between 1 and 2 knots in westerly winds. It was weaker, often nearly insensible, in easterly winds ; and in one instance, off Mont Louis river, in a calm which was followed by a strong breeze from the eastward, it could not be perceived. Vessels beating up the St. Lawrence against westerly winds usually experience little difficulty in making good way to windward, after having weathered the west point of Anticosti and arrived on the north coast ; CBAB, II.] CURRENTS AND TIDES. because there is seldom any current on that side, and the tides, although weak, are tolerably regular. It is in general easy to beat from the Seven islands to Point de Monts; for there the stream of flood is stronger than the ebb ; the latter, as well as the current, being turned off to the southward by the point. There seems, at times, also to be an eddy current there, sweeping round the great bay or curve between the above- named points. It sets off from about Egg islet to the S.S.W. ; and is the probable cause why vessels, which shape a direct course for Point de Monts with a leading north-west wind off the land at night, so often find them- selves obliged to haul up for, or unable to fetch, the light. Any farther remarks respecting the tides and currents will be of a more local nature, and will, therefore, be best given where the particular places or parts of the coast are described. The object here was to give a con- densed view of the principal streams which mainly affect a vessel in her voyage either up or down through the Gulf and Estuary ; and in the following Chapter will be found their usual effects, and the allowances which should be consequently made. f ^ 30 '.!» \ • CHAPTER III. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATING THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE. Variation, 26i° to 18i° West in 1860. „ be( of get eas Ian an< BimaOTSOws jlcmoub tbb ov&r. — Vessels bound to Canada, or to any of the ports in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, should endeavour to make St. Paul island (see page 51) which, being of considerable elevation, and bold all round, may, with care and a good look out, be made at night, or even in fogs, unless the former be very dark, or the latter very thick.* The island of St. Paul, which lies in the main entrance to the Gulf, between Cape Ray, at the south-west extremity of Newfoundland, and Cape North, near the northern extremity of Cape Breton island, has two lighthouses erected on it, which have been of the utmost assistance to mariners. The northern* one stands on a detached rock within 26 feet of the north point, and exhibits a fixed white light ; the other lighthouse is placed on the extreme south-west point, and exhibits a revolving white li^ht (page 52). From the south point of the island, Cape North bears W. by S. ^ S., distant 13 miles j and from the north point Cape Ray bears E. | N., distant 4^ miles. CAUTZOsr. — In approaching St. Paul from the south-east with northerly winds, the current, mentioned at page 22, as at times coming from the northward, and setting towards the shore of Cape Breton, should be guarded against by attending to the soundings on the banks, which extend 7 or 8 leagues off Scatari island, and off the eastern coast of Cape Breton island as far northward as Inganish ; beyond which the depth is too great to afford any guidance. In clear nights the revolving light on the north-east point of Scatari island can be seen 15 miles off: the light- house is an octagon white building 70 feet high. There is also a light- house recently erected on Flint island, which, most injudiciously, "I-.k.-^-'b a Jlushing light, so little distinguished from the revolving light on Scatari island, (from which it bears N. \ E. 10 miles,) that they have already * See Chart :— Gulf of St. Lawrence, No. 2,516 } scale, d = 3*7 inche*. (IHAT. ni.] DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF. M been mistaken for each other. There is also a ^xed light at the entrance of Sydney harbour. These lights, (for which, see Chap. XXII.,Vol. 2,) to- gether with the soundings, afford abundant guidance to vessels passing the eastern extremity of Cape Breton island. The south coast of Newfound- land, eastward of Cape Ray, is broken, rocky, and dangerous. The tides and currents, being influenced by the winds, are irregular; whilst all southerly and easterly winds, and often also south-westerly winds, bring a thick fog, which is most dense near the lee shore. On these accounts this coast should not be approached, excepting with a decided northerly wind and clear weather. . , ST. rjkxru to the snn socxs and MAOBAXiav n&AiniB. — After having made St. Paul, vessels bound to Canada should endeavour, if the weather be clear, to make the Bird rocks, the largest. or south-eastern- most of which bears from the north point of St. Paul N.N.W. 55 miles. There is a deep channel between St. Paul and the bank on which the Magdalen islands, Bryon island, and the Bird rocks are situated. This channel is 12 miles wide, and no soundings have been found in it with 60 fathoms of line. Twelve miles N.W. from St. Paul, on the south-east extremity of the above bank there are 50 fathoms water over a bottom of fine sand ; and 13-^ miles from the island, on the same line of bearing, there are 35 fathoms, the bottom being the same, with the occasional addition of gravel. From this point the water shoals gradually towards the Magdalen, distant 42 miles. Following the eastern edge of the bank to the northward, inclining gradually to the north-west, regular soundings extend from 28 to 35 fathoms over sand, stones, and broken shells ; the latter depth being where the Great Bird rock bears W.N.W. ; and when the same rock bears W. by S. ^ S., distant 13^ miles, there will be 50 fathoms over fine sand on the edge of the ba k, off which there is no bottom with 70 fathoms of line. At the distance of 10 miles from the rock, and on the same line of bearing, there are 43 fathoms ; and at 6 miles 33 fathoms, shoaling gradually in to 24 fathoms, within a mile of the rocks. This bank is an excellent guide up to the Bird rocks at night, or in thick weather, which almost always accompanies easterly and southerly winds : but under such circumstances it will be safer to run along the northern edge of the bank, taking care not to come into less than 40 fathoms, than to attempt to make the Bird rocks. When well past them by the reckoning, a course can be shaped up the Gulf. In northerly winds the weather is usually clear ; and, if the ship be far enough to windward, it will be advisable to stand to the westward and en- deavour to make Entry island (page 63), taking care to avoid the Doyle 82 GULF AND BIVEB ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. in. reef and the Sandy spit off the east end of thu Magdalen islands, by not approaching the islands in that part nearer than the depth of 20 fathoms. Under the lee of these islands a smooth sea will be found, sufficient guidance by the soundings, and good shelter and excellent anchorage in Pleasant bay.* Another advantage of following this course arises from the circum- etance that the winds generally veer to the south-west ; so that, if a vessel has passed to leeward of the Magdalen islands with the northerly or north-west winds on the starboard tack, the succeeding south-west wind will enable her to stand on the opposite tack towards Cape Gasp6. From the north point of the island of St. Paul to the east point of the Magdalen islands the course is N.W., distance 56 miles ; and to Entry island N.W. by W. ^ W., 63 miles. aims SOOXS to awtioostx zs&Aira.— From the north Bird rock the lighthouse on the south-west point of Anticosti island bears N. by W. I W., 134 miles ; and the East cape of Anticosti, N. by E., 80 miles. After leaving the Bank of Soundings, northward of the Bird rocks, the water is deep all the way until near the shores of Anticosti, there being no bottom with 80 fathoms of line, nor probably at much greater depths. In making this part of the voyage up the Gulf, the frequent current from the northward, mentioned in page 23, as having been one of the causes of shipwrecks in the neighbourhood of Capes Rozier and Gasp^, Mai bay, &c., should be considered. Accidents, however, from this cause can never occur if the lead be used ; for, upon consulting the chart, it will be seen that there are soundings to be obtained nearly all the way upon, and to southward of, a line joining the Bird rocks and Cape Gasp6, whilst a few miles to the northward of that line there is no bottom with 80 fathoms of line. The lighthouse erected on Cape Rozier will also be of great assistance. It is a circular white tower 112 feet high, and shows a fixed light visible in clear weather from a distance of 16 miles. With a fair wind the object should be to make the lighthouse or revolving light upon the south-west point of Anticosti ; and, with westerly winds, any part of the coant of that island which can be attained. The fixed light on Heath point, at the east end of that island, will render it easy to make the east end of the island at nighty if the weather be clear ; and, if the weather be thick, the Bank of Soundings, which extends off it 28 miles to the south-eastward, may * See Chap. IV. for a description of these islands. OHAT. III.] DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE OULF. 33 servo to determine the vessel's position l)y the lead. At the distance from the island above named tho depth is 62 fathoms, shoaling gr ally in towoi'ds the island.* PASBAOB iroKTB of AWTioosTZ. — In the event of a vessel being near tho eastern extremity of Anticosti, and having succeeded in making East cape, "or tho light on Heath point, with a south-west wind, it will often be preferable to proceed to tho northward of the island, where there is a good channel, rather than to tack and stand back to the south- ward and eastward. Under tho loo of Anticosti, she will in this case have a smooth sea, and often also clear weather, whilst there is a heavy swell and frequently a thick fog to windward of it. She will, moreover, avoid the current out of the St. Lawrence, which runs constantly with westerly winds between the south coast and Anticosti ; and thus be able at all times to make way to the westward in moderate weather. At night, or in foggy weather, the Bank of Soundings off the north const, and farther westward the banks off the Mingan islands, will safely guide her, even although tho land should not bo visible. A" the way from Natashquan point to the river St. John, westward of the Mingan islands, there are banks of sand, gravel, broken shells, and bits of coral, extending off tho coast many miles. Off the Mingan islands these banks extend halfway across to Anticosti. The depth of Avaterupon them is very various : to tho eastward, or below the Mingan islands, it is in general between 30 and 50 fathoms ; but in some few places it exceeds the latter depth, whilst in others there is as little as 19 fathoms. Abreast the islands there is still less water occasionally ; but to the southward of these banks, and between them and Anticosti, there is a deep channel; in which, from opposite the east point to abreast the west cliff, the sound- ings exceed 100 fathoms. Proceeding westward the depths gradually decrease to 60 fathoms off the north point, where they become irre- gular for a few miles, varying from 50 to 70 fiithoms with occasional rocky bottom ; and then deepen again, with mud bottom, further to the westward. In all this deep water channel, with the single exception which has been stated, the bottom is, for the most part, of blue mud. Such a re- markable difference in the nature of the bottom, as well as in tho depth of water, renders it comparatively easy to take a ship through this channel at night, or in foggy weather. But in order to effect this with safety the vessel should be furnished with Massey's patent sounding machine and * For the lights on Anticosti, tee page 70. [ST.L.]— VOL. X. 34 OULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [onAr. III. lead, or other similar instrument, which must bo freely used t « she runs along the southern edge of tho banks of sand, gravel, and shells, sheering occasionally to the southward into tho deep water and muddy bottom, to make sure of not getting too far to tho northward. Tho dangers of this channel may bo said to commence with the reefs off St. Genevieve and Hunting islands, on approaching which from the east- ward, the chart should bo carefully consulted, for they are very dangerous, and there are some deep water soundings, between 50 and 70 fathoms in- side the outer banks, which might lead to a mistake if care were not taken to keep on the southern edge of the outer banks.* These deep water soundings commence off the high peninsula Watchee- sho, and extend, irregularly, being deep holes in tho banks, to within a short distonce of tho Bowen rocks off St. Genevieve island. But tho vessel, if properly conducted, will be at least 9 miles to tho southward of the rocks off St. Genevieve ; and as there are soundings in a moderrto depth of water, 5 or 6 miles from Collins shoal, the outer danger off Hunting island, and the channel, excluding the reefs, is there 23 miles wide, there seems no difficulty in this part which may not with common prudence be avoided. Proceeding westward, the channel contracts gradually to the narrowest part, which is between the reefs off tho North point of Anticosti and off Mingan island, where it is 13^ miles wide. To pass this safely, at night or in foggy weather, it is necessary that the lead should be kept con- stantly going as the vessel runs along tho southern ?dgo of tho bank off the Mingan islands, and she should not be allowed to go to the northward 'into loss than 30 fathoms of water. '■ If tho vessel should be met by a westerly wind, down the channel, it will be attended with clear weather, and the white cliffs of Anticosti, which extend from the east point westward to opposite St. Genevieve, will easily be seen. A vessel may stand in without fear to within a mile or two of this part of the coast, which, with the exception of the reefs off Fox bay, is bold and free from danger. Farther westward the coast is low and shelving, and reefs extend further off. In the board to the northward at night, the sounding on the banks will show when to tack. cnnutBxrrs. — It has been remarked already (page 28) that, in westerly winds, there is a weak current down this channel, but it is not constant, and its rate seldom exceeds half a knot. Sometimes it is imper- ceptible during the flood tide, and runs even the other way on the approach 11. 1 * See Charts :— Mingan Islands, Nos. 1,132, 1,133; scales, m = 0>8 of an inoht and Sheets 3 and 4, Qulf of St. Lawrence, Nos. 305, 306 ; scales, m = 0*25 of an inch. OHAF. III.] DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF. of eaHtorly winds. VcsboIb, howovor, nhould bo awRro, that on arriving off the North point of Anticosti with a wont or Houth-woHt wind, thiH current will iiImoHt always bo found setting over to tho north-east, being turned oiF Into that direction by tho west end of tho iHland. Confined within a com- paratively narrow channel, it is hero stronger than clHOwhore, running, in tho obb tido, about a knot, and in tho flood tide, half a knot in tho offlng.* at eht an VASBAOB SOVTS Of AWTZOOSTI.— ycssels mcoting witii a westerly wind in tho south channel should stand ovor towards the island of Anti- costi, and make boards, off and on, of 9 or 12 miles, to avoid the current out of tho St. Lawrence. In boating between Cormorant point and South point, off which there is a dangerous reef, keep tho lighthouse on Ilcath point open of Cormorant point. In standing in-shoro at night to the eastward of tho South-west point, do not bring tho revolving light on this point to bear to tho westward of N.N.W., or when standing in-shoro to tho westward of it, to the southward of S.S.E. ^ E. Farther particulars respecting the navigation along the shores of Anticosti will bo found in tho next Chapter. OAunoar. — In moderate weather a vessel will generally gain ground to windward all along tho south coast of Anticosti, but caro should be taken to avoid being becalmed, near tho shore, between tho South-west and West points, where both tho swell and current set inshore, and where, tho bottom being of clean flat limestone, an anchor will not hold. It is by no moans uncommon off this part of the coast, for the fine weather W.N. W. breeze of summer to dio away suddenly to a calm, so tnat a vessel beating here should stand off shore on tho first appearance of a decrease of wind. In tho month of August of two following years, wo were nearly driven on shore, under St. Mary cliffs, by a sudden calm. Tho sea was at first quite smooth, but a heavy swell from tho south-westward soon com- menced, and continued for 3 or 4 hours before tho breeze which caused it made its appearance. From tho revolving light on the South-west point of Anticosti to Cape Henry (Ellis bay) the bearing is N.N.W. J W. and the distance 39 miles ; and 8 miles farther, nearly in the same direction, will bring the vessel to tho fixed light on the West point of tho island, which can be seen from the distance of 15 miles. Having made the South-west point, and being 4 or 5 miles off it, with a fair wind, a course should be steered along the coast, so as to pass 8 or 10 miles to the southward and westward of Cape Henry and West point. * Remarks on the tides In-ahorei and on the dangers in this channel, will be found is Chapters IV. and ym. ' * 2 OULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. in. N.W. i N. will bo A nafe courao at nipht or In thick wonthcr, when the lend should be hovo every hnlf-hoiir. With this procnution there in no danger of being Hot too nenr the const, even when the lightrt cnnnot l»o seen, nince Ihore arc Houndings in \vhh than 40 fat horns, at a distance varying from 6 to 3 milcH off nhoro alt the way from the South-wcHt point to the west end of tho island. AVTSOOBTX to vonrx «e Mosnrs. — From tho West ])oint of Anti- costi, tho south extremity of Point do Monts bcarH W. | N. dirttant 116 milca. An inspection of tho chart will show that there are soundings in various depths, between 50 and 100 fathoms, from the western end of Anticosti to nearly opposite tho Seven islands, Avhilst to tlio southward thero is no bottom at a much greater depth. These may be of use in discovering tho situation of a vessel when light winds and fogs prevail for Bevcrnl days in succession, and tho land in consequence hos not been seen. When tho vessel has arrived off tho West point of Anticosti, with a fair wind still continuing, n course should bo steered well to the northward, especially with northerly winds, say for about Egg island. She will thus avoid tho strength of tho current, and tho possibility of being set over too near tho south shore by its acting on her starboard-bow. When she has run about half wny across she should haul moro to tho southward, so as to insure clearing Point do Monts. OAUTZOir. — If tho weather bo clear, there will bo no difficulty in making tho lighthouse on Point de Monts,* and its Jixed white light at night can be seen, under favourable circumstances, 7 or 8 leagues from the fore- yard of a ship. But if tho weather bo thick, as it commonly is, with a fair wind for running up, great caution is necessary. In such circum- stances, after having run within about 15 miles of Point de Monts by the reckoning, sail should bo reduced, so as to have tho vessel under complete command, and she should be rounded to, and a good deep cast with Massey's patent lead obtained, so as to insure that she is not to tho north-eastward of the point, and this should bo repeated every half-hour, until tho light be seon, or it is certain that it is past. If the vessel be to the north-eastward of Trinity bay, soundings will be obtained in less than 60 fathoms, from 4 to 6 miles off shore. Directly off Trinity bay, there is the same depth 3 miles off shore ; whilst, at tho same , * Point de Monts received its name flrum the Sienr de Monts, a celebrated French com- mander, who was there in the beginning of the 17th Centurj. Point des Monts is an Inaccuracy, and Bald Mountain point is absurd, as there is no mountain near the point. Cape Chat should be Cape de Chatte, so called frum the commander who preceded the Smut de Monti ; and the Cape Misho of the old charts should be Cape Michauz. eiur. III.] DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. difltanco off Point o almoHt certain tliat the vcHsel in not to the northward ; but Htill, aa the edecti' of currcntx cannot be exactly calculated, and reckon inpTH are liable to error, it will be prudent to uhape a course well to the Houtliw ird of the point, till thoro remaiurt no doubt of its having been paHBod. In making the light on Point do Montn, remember that it is not on the extremity of the point, but has been placed (it is thought very improperly) 1^ miles to the north-eastward, along the coast towards Trinity bay.* Point do Monts may bo approached to three-quarters of a mile with safety, but not nearer in a largo ship, since there is a Icdgo of rocks, with only 9 feet at low water, nearly half a mile south-eastward of the extremity of the point, and south-westward of the lighthouse. Thero ore also one or two patches of rock, with 12 feet of water, to the southward and south-eastward of the lighthouse, but these are not more than a third of a mile offshore at low water. The foregoing remarks apply where the object is to make the light- house, or light, on Point de Monts, which should always be attempted •where thero is any chance of success, because it is extremely desirable to obtain a fresh departure before running up the comparatively narrow Estuary. But if the weather bo so thick, as to leave no reasonable hope of succeeding, or if the wind be from the southward, a course should be steered more to the southward, so as to pass well clear of the point. nrzTH BBATZwa vmrsB. — ^Vessels beating up against westerly winds should stand over to the northward, as soon as they can weather Anticosti, unless the bai'ometer, or other indications, render it probable that the wind will veer to the southward. During the flood tides, make short boards off and on the north coast, to take advantage of it, for it runs strongest in-shore. During the ebb, keep further off the land, for that tide also runs strongest near the shore. The tides, in general, are weak along this coast, and a vessel will always make way to windward in moderate weather. From the Seven islands to Point de Monts is, in general, the easiest part of the passage, for the W.N.W. wind, which, in this part, is the most common westerly wind, is off the land, so that a vessel can frequently fetch up to Point de Monts in rmoth water, particularly at night, when tho wind in fine weather generally veers a point or two to the northward. She will also have the benefit of the flood tide, whilst the ebb, being turned off by Point de Monts, is scarcely felt. * Stt page 22G. U! if III' GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. ni. If it blow fiosh, and the flood be nearly done on arriving near Point de Monts, there will be no use attempting to beat round it till next tide, and then only in fine weather. In this case. Trinity bay, where with westerly winds a pilot will generally be found, is a good anchorage with moderate depth of water, good ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh. ■■■'!) i'i''/;!! m rOXNT de MOITTB to BZCQUBTTB ZSKAXTS. — From the south extremity of Point de Monts, the lighthouse on the north side of Bicquette island bears W.S.W. 79^ miles ; and the south point of the Manicouagon Bhoals W. ^ S. 33 miles ; but as this great shoal extends towards English bay, its north-east end is only 28 miles distant from Point de Monts.* CAUTZOir. — Having now ai'rived at the comparatively narrow Estuary, where the tides and currents are much stronger, and more various in their direction, than in the wider parts previously treated of, and where there are shoals extending on the north side several miles ofl' the shore, a good look out and constant attention to the soundings, become indispensably necessary at night, or during the fogs, which are so prevalent and embarrassing in this navigation. CURRBirTS. — After taking a departure from Point de Monts, the course to be steered must vary under different circumstance of wind and tide. The downward current is not only turned off to the southward by Point de Monts, but the Manicouagon and Bersimis points also produce the same effect, although in a less degree, during the ebb tide ; to which must be added the streams out of the large rivers Manicouagon, Outard, and Bersimis. During the flood tide, the streams out of these rivers cease, the general current is checked in the offing, whilst in-shore, within a few miles of the north coast, a stream of flood will be found (page 23). A vessel taking her departure from Point de Monts with a whole ebb tide before her, is therefore very differently circumstanced from one ■which does the same at the commencement of the flood, and must reckon upon being set over towards the south coast much faster in the former than in the latter case. Directions will first be given for a fair wind, and afterwards for beating winds. SiBBOTZOirft np the BSTVAST. — Having made the light on Point de Monts, and being 3 or 4 miles off it to the southward, with the usual easterly winds, nearly or right up the Estuary, steer W. by S. until up nearly as high as the Minicouagon shoals, then keep half a point more * See Charts :— River St Lawrence, Part L, No. 309 ; scale, m = 0' 25 of an inch ; and Sheets 1 and 2, below Quebec, Nos. 311, 312 ; scales, m = 0*5 of an inch. CHAP. III.] DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. to the southward, W. by S. ^ S. These are safe courses with either ebb or flood, and if the vessel has left Point de Monts or at or near the com- mencement of the ebb tide, will usually bring her into soundings off Metis, where 30 fathoms over sandy bottom will be found 3 miles off shore, and ^0 fathoms 5 miles off shore, and on the edge of the bank. If, on the contrary, the vessel has left "Point de Monts early on the flood, she will probably be farther to the northward ; we say, probably, because the sti'ength of the current is too uncertain to allow of saying that she positively will be so. However, the degree of uncertainty, which the irregular rate of current gives rise to, must be met by the use of the lead. If, therefore, the weather be thick, and the land not seen, round-to in time, particularly if the vessel has had the ebb tide against her, and get a cast of the lead, to make sure that she has not been set too near the south coast. If no bottom be found at 60 fathoms, the W. by S. ^ S. course may be continued until the vessel is up as high as Metis by the reckoning, then let soundings again be tried for, and if still without finding bottom haul in gradually to the southward, under easy sail, and with the deep-sea lead going, so as to endeavour to strike soundings on the bank off Father point, which may be accomplished safely, since the bank in that part extends several miles off shore. When Father point bears South distant 5 miles, the depth is 30 fathoms, over a bottom of soft clay, and with Barnaby island on the same bearing, distant 7 miles, the same soundings will be found. To PASS Blc^KVliTTB XS&Axrs. — The revolving light on Bicquette island (see page 99), will now be distant about 15 miles to the W.S.W., and visible in cleai' weather ; but if it be foggy, and the light not seen, proceed as follows ; attending to the gun which is fired from the lighthouse even/ hour : — Run along the northern edge of the bank of soundings, with the lead going, taking particulai* care not to go to the southwai'd into less than 30 fathoms. When it is judged that the vessel is approaching near Bicquette, having passed Barnaby island, haul out a little to the north- ward until she is out of soundings, and then steer W. by S. ^ S., still heaving the lead, and having the vessel under moderate sail for the pur- pose of getting bottom, till certain that she is well above the North-west reef of Bicquette. If soundings are struck at all, whilst running past this dangerous island, on which many vessels have been wrecked, the vessel must be hauled off immediately to the northward out of soundings, and then steer as before. When it is quite certain the vessel is past Bicquette and its reefs, haul in to the southward by degrees, till the edge of the bank is gained again, and keep it up to Green Island reef (page 106). 40 OULF AMD RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. in. ! I'ii Bicquette and its dangerous North-west reef lie near the northern edge of the bank of soundings, and Avere difficult to pass safely at night or in fogs, without a chart containing correct soundings or the aid of a light ; but now that those wants are supplied, it may be safely accomplished, with the assistance of Massey's patent sounding machine, by any seaman of common prudence and intelligence. Two miles North of Bicquette there axe 30 fathoms : and only 1^ miles North of the North-west reef there is the same depth, with sandy bottom. Farther off no bottom will be found at 50 or 60 fathoms. Both the island and reef are bold to the northward, having 12 fathoms close to them. It would not be prudent for vessels, without a pilot, to attempt running inside of Bic island in foggy weather, unless well acquainted. If, however, it bo necessary to do so, for the purpose of anchoring, see directions for that island, page 98 to 103. OAUTioxr. — It must be remembered, that the courses which have been recommended are independent of the deviation or local attraction ; and that its effect, although varying in amount in different vessels, is in wood built ships, and some iron ones, to make it appear that they are steering less to the southward than they are in reality, if the compass be, as usual, in the after part of the ship, and if there be no large masses of iron, as an iron tiller for instance, still farther aft : for, in this latter case, the attraction of all the rest of the iron in the vessel may bo neutralized or overcome by that of the iron abaft and close to the compass. To render the effect of deviation apparent, we will suppose it to amount, •in a wood built ship, — when the north end of the needle is attracted to the bow, — to a point of the compass, no uncommon occurrence on a 6 or 8 point course,* and the vessel to be steering W. by S. •J S. by the compass in her binnacle. She will then in reality be making a S.W. by W. ^ W. course, which would soon put her on shore on the south coast, an event that would be accelerated by the current, which, instead of stemming, she would have on her starboard bow checking her in-shore. A case exactly similar to the one just supposed, occurred on the night of the 8th September, 1831, when the ship <7ane, of Belfast, having several large chain cables, and other extra iron on board, by which the deviation must have been greatly increased, ran stem on to Bicquette, with a fair wind, but thick fog. She was steering the regular course up the middle of the Estuary ; but her master was quite unaware of the effect of the great mass of iron in her hold upon her compasses, and equally so, that previous to the accident whicli caused the total loss of his vessel, he had been running for many miles in less than 20 fathoms water, the Bunk of Soundings not being laid down in his chart. * See alao page 14. CBAF. III.] DIRECltONS UP THE ESTUARY. 41 These remarks, and others which have been made respecting the deviation, will show how important a knowledge of it is to the safety of a vessel, and will, moreover, point it out as the duty of every com- mander, to endeavour to ascertain its amount during the voyage, and before he arrives in a difficult navigation like the St. Lawrence, where the fogs may frequently oblige him to run as high as Green island without having been able to obtain a pilot. rzKOTS. — ^Pilot schooners are often to be met with off Point de Monts, and pilot boats frequently wait off Caribou point, at Trinity bay, near the lighthouse on Point de Monts, and in St. Augustin cove. If, however, a pilot should not have been obtained, and it be in the daytime, a vessel may safely stand in under easy sail and with the lead going, and endeavour to make the houses on Father point, although the Aveather be thick ; running along the land from the eastward for that purpose, and going no nearer than 11 or 10 fathoms at low water. Many pilots live on this point, and there is almost always one to be obtained. Even in a foggy night a tolerably correct opinion may be formed whether the vessel be up to Father point, or not ; for an inspection of the chart will show, that the soundings shoal more gradually to the south- ward there than they do farther to the eastward. If the vessel be hove to, in 10 or 11 fathoms, low water, with her head oflF shore, a gun or two will bo almost sure to bring oflF a pilot, unless the weather be very bad, for the pilots are fearless and excellent boatmen. rrom ponrT SB MOirrs witu sovtbiw&t 'wnrBs. — We have hitherto been speaking of the case when vessels are running up with easterly winds and thick weather ; but a second case is when the wind is from the southward ; then the direct course, W. by S. ^ S., may be steered, if the vessel be, as before, close off Point de Monts, or W. f S. if sho be nearer the south coast : allowing still for the set of the current to the southward, according to the tide, and sounding in time if the land be not in sight. Whenever the weather is foggy, and the land cannot be seen, the object should always be to strike the Bank of Soundings along the south coast about Metis, or Father point at farthest, and then follow it as a guide to the westward. vrttb KOUVHMKStT vnMHU. — A third case, of frequent occurrence in the autumn, is when there is a fresh northerly wind. The weather is then invariably clear, and, as the land can be seen, there is no danger of getting on shore with a good look out ; but the strength of the current to the southward is increased by this wind, and therefore the vessel must be kept well to the nori;hward, to prevent being set over to the lee-shore, and 48 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAF. in. at being, in consequence, obliged to tack (upon the wind veering a point or two to the westward) and stand all the way back again. Supposing the vessel to be in the same position as before, 3 or 4 miles to the southward of Point de Monts, she may fearlessly steer West for the first 20 miles, or as long as the light is seen. Take the bearing of the light every half hour, and lay it down on the chart, in order that the effect of the current may be seen ; and if it be found that it sets the vessel very fast to the southward, as it probably will, particularly during the ebb tide, haul up still higher, but take care not to bring the light to bear to the eastward of E. by N., lest she gets too near the Manicouagon shoals. When it is reckoned that the vessel is up to these shoals luff up in the wind, and get a deep cast of the lead, for although these shoals are steep-to on their east side, and also to the westward of Manicou- agon point, yet there ai'e soundings off their south point. When Mani- couagan point bears North the depths will be from 50 to 60 fathoms, at the distance of 5^ miles off shore, and from 30 to 40 fathoms at 4 miles off shore, the bottom being of very fine sand. In the first case, she will be 3^ miles off the south point of the shoals, and in the latter case, only 1^ miles. When past these dangerous and extensive shoals, the south point of which extends 2^ miles [off a low point of the same name, which can seldom be clearly distinguished at night in consequence of the higher land behind it, a vessel may haul well up under the north shore, coming no nearer than 3 miles, and taking care to avoid the shoal off Bersimis point, which extends nearly 1^ miles off a low point, also difficult to be seen at night. • There is also a rocky shoal, first discovered during this survey, and named the Gulnare shoal, which lies nearly 2 miles off Cape Colombier. And, lastly, give a good berth to v>e low point of Mille-Vaches, off which the shoals extend 2 miles, as will be seen by the chart. All these shoals are extremely steep, and there is, in consequence, no trusting to the lead in approaching them with a vessel going fast. For description of these shoals see Chap. IX. After passing Mille-Vachen point the north coast is bold and without anchorage all the way to within 3 miles of the Sanguenay river. mrrmcTB or tue cxnatXNT and txbbb. — Although it has been stated that the strength of the current down the Estuary of the St. Lawrence is uncertain, yet it may be useful to give an idea of its rate and effect as experienced on two occasions in the surveying vessel Gulnare. First, when running up from close off Point de Monts, which was left at the commencement of ebb tide, with a strong breeze from the northward, it was found that the vessel was retarded by a stream of 2 knots per hour, and that the set to the southward, at right angles to the course, was at the OBAF. III.] DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 43 same time 1 1 miles in 7 hours, the wind being free, and the rate of sailing 8 knots. This occurred in the month of October. ■ The second refers to an effect of the tidal stream, which is more local and higher up the Estuary, but of which it is most important to the safety of a vessel to be aware. The Gulnare had been becalmed 5 or 6 miles south of Bersimis point, when a breeze sprang up from the eastward at 10 h. 30 m, p.m. Although a W.S.W. and S.W. by W. ^ W. course was steered, yet at 4 a.m. Bicquette was sighted bearing South 2 or 3 miles, and she was obliged to haul up to clear the North-west reef. Had this occurred in a vessel where the lead was neglected, and had the weather chanced to be foggy, she would have run on shore and been in all probability lost. On this occa- sion the ebb tide appears to have set diagonally across the Estuary about E.S.E., and at the rate of 2 knots per hour ; being evidently thrown off to the southward by Mille-Vaches point and its shoal. During the flood tide, however, it must be remembered that no such stream will be found ; on the contrary, there is reason to believe that the remark of Mr. Lambly (the experienced harbour-master of Quebec) will then prove correct, that " the current between Bicquette and Mille-Vaches point sets to the N.E., instead of E.S.E.," for the eddy flood (page 25) meets the proper flood flowing up along the Bank of Soundings, and between Bicquette and Bic, and the united streams are turned off to the northward after the first quarter flood. BiCQvaTVB to osBBsr IBKAVB. — From the lighthouse on Bicquette island the lighthouse on Green island, which shows a Jixed light, bears S.W. by W. f W., distant 30^ miles ;* and the light can be seen, in clear weather, from a distance of 17 or 18 miles, at an elevation of 60 feet above the sea. The lighthouse stands on the north side of the island, and when first seen, from a vessel on the south Bank of Soundings, appears like a white sail a short distance from the shore (page 106). ;' .»' In running up to Green island, after passing the North-west reef of Bic- quette, a W. by S. J S. course will, in general, take a vessel along the edge of the bank up as high as the Bazades ; but above those islets both flood and ebb set to the south-east, and render it necessary to steer more to the westward, or even to the northwax'd of West with a scant northerly wind. But the lead, and a reference to the soundings in the chart, are the only sure guides. With an easterly wind the fog will seldom be so thick as to prevent either the Razades, Basque, or Apple islands from being seen in * See Chart :— River St Lavrence, below Quebec, Sheet 3, No. 312 ; scale, m of an inch. 0-5 44 OULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAF. nx. the day-time. They may be safely approached by the lead, and an attempt should be made to make the two last, especially Apple island, which is bold-to on the north side, in order that the position of the vessel may be exactly ascertained before hauling out into deep water, for the purpose of clearing the dangerous Green Island reef. In the circumstances we are supposing, of an easterly wind with fog in the day-time, it is much more safe to attempt to make Apple island than the lighthouse, since a vessel can approach within less than 2 cables of the former, but would be ashore before she saw the latter if the fog were thick, since the reef extends nearly 1^ miles to the north-eastward of it. Having succeeded in making Apple island, the vessel may be sheered out to the edge of the Bank of Soundings ; and as the distance is short, it is easy to judge when she is coming near the reef, taking, of course the tide into account, whether it be flood or ebb, and keeping the lead constantly going. Then, if the lighthouse be not seen, sheer out to the northward into more than 30 fathoms water, and shape a course up towards the Brandy Pots, according to the tide. If the lighthouse be seen, or the light at night, there is still less diffi- culty in avoiding the reef, and regulating the course afterwards, provided the bhart be consulted, the lead used, and the tide considered. But Green Island reef is extremely dangerous, and is rendered doubly so by the strong tides which set upon it, and whicii produce breaking ripples that try the nerves of strangers during a dark night or foggy weather. •Therefore, in a strong easterly gale, dark night, fog- or snow so thick that there is little chance of seeing the light, the attempt to run through between Red and Green islands will be attended with great risk, espe- cially during the ebb tide, which, coming from between Hare Island reef and Bed islet, sets over towards the Green Island reef, at the rate of 5 knots. It requires an experienced pilot to take a vessel safely through this dangerous passage under these circumstances : it will, therefore, be prudent, in the case of a vessel approaching Bic, in such weather, towards the close of the day, and without a pilot, rather to heave to, or stand on and oiF the south bank, than run this risk, although there may be some danger in so doing from other vessels running up. If the soundings about Bic be well known, or that island, or Bicquette, has been seen, the safest plan would be to run under the lee, and anchor to the westward of them, in from 8 to 10 fathoms low water (page 101), where the holding ground is excellent, and the vessel would ride in safety till daylight. Even as far as 6 or 7 miles to the westward of these islands, in from 12 to 13 fathoms at low water, the Gulnare rode out a heavy breeze from the eastward ; the sea, OHAF. UI.] DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 45 although considerable, being nothing in comparison with that which was running, at the same time, in the deep water outside of her and off the bank. BBATZirO up flrom POIXTT de MOITTS to OKBBW IBKAHS, against westerly winds, which are almost always accompanied with clear weather, there is little difficulty, with the assistance of the charts, other than that which arises from the set of the tides and currents. It requires a tolerably good sailing vessel, and a flood tide, to beat past Point de Monts against a wind right out ; but short boards round the point, and along the north coast, up to Cape St. Nicholas, will most readily succeed. It is not, however, advisable to keep this shore close aboard much farther to the westward, lest the wind should fall to a calm, for there is a strong indraught towards the mouth of Manicouagon river, during the flood tide ; and if an easterly wind should chance to spring up, after the vessel had been drifted in near the mouth of English bay, it might be difficult to beat out, or to weather the eastern side of the Mani- couagon shoals. The light on Point de Monts cannot bo seen on any bearing to the southward of East, being intercepted by the high land to the westward of it ; and when it disappears, a vessel off Goodbout river will be only 1 mile fi'om the bar, or off Cape St. Nicholas little more than 2 miles off shore ; so that it is a safe rule, in standing in towards the coast at night, to tack as soon as the light bears E. ^ N. When the ebb makes, stretch over to the southward into the middle of the Estuary, where that tide is less strong than near either shore ; but do not go farther to the southward, and be back again to the north coast at the return of flood. The best time to get past Point de Monts, when fine weather and westerly winds prevail, is at night, or in the first hours of the morning, for then vessels are often assisted by a northerly land wind. If it has blown fresh from the westward during the preceding day a heavy head sea may be expected off the pitch of the 'point ; the flood from along the land in the direction of the Seven islands meeting the downward current off the point assists in causing this. If, after passing Point de Monts in the morning, with a northerly land wind, there are signs of its dying away, or veering to the westward as the day advances, continue the board to the southward and westward, instead of tacking to keep the north land on board, as directed when the wind is settled right down ; for the land wind of the night will probably be suc- ceeded by the fine weather day wind, which usually becomes a steady breeze about 9 a.m., after commencing at W.S.W., and thus affords aa advantageous board towards the north coast. 46 OULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [CBAT. in. I: Mill In the fine weather of the summer the wind will probably veer by degrees during the day back to West and W.N.W., thus offering another good board to the south-westward. Pilots and others, who are expe- rienced in reading the indications of the winds and weather, frequently gain more ground to the westward by calculating upon these probable changes of the wind, than by keeping on the north shore out of the current. With the exception of the low points of Manicouagon, Bersimis, and Mille-Vaches, of which the seaman has already been warned (page 42) the land can in general be plainly seen at night during the continuance of westerly winds ; and where its features are sufficiently remarkable, there will be little difficulty in making it out, from its representation in the Admiralty charts. Mount Camille, especially, being an isolated mountain^ 2,036 feet above high water mark, can easily bo distinguished ; as well as the summit of the high land of Bio, 1,234 feet high. Their bearings will often be of great service to vessels in clear nights, and will show when they are high enough up to fetch Father point ; where a pilot should be sought for, if one has not been already obtained (pages 41, 96). On arriving off Father point, or anywhere between it and Bic, if the flood be done and the wind be light, it will be better to anchor on the Bank of Soundings, weighing again, if there bo a breeze, in sufficient time to stand over and meet the first of the flood on the north shore. By this mode of proceeding, vessels will gain much more ground to the westward than by remaining on the south shore, for although there be a weak stream of flood upon the Bank of Soundings, from Father point to the island of Bic, yet there is little above that island, and none after the first quarter flood, excepting so close in shore as to be useless to large vessels. From the bay of Mille-Vaches to within 3 miles of the entrance of the Saguenay river, with the exception of a shoal extending a short distance off" shore from the bay next westward of Cape Bondesir, the coast is moderately high and very bold, the flood strong, and the ebb compara- tively weak. Vessels should, therefore, make short boards along this shore until up to Bergeron coves, and then stretch over to the anchorage under Green Island reef, to wait for the next flood ; for it will require a whole tide, even with a good working breeze, and a fair sailing merchant vessel, to beat through between Green island and Bed islet, and reach good anchorage above, before the ebb makes. • , "^ !. ' ■ oAUTXOsr. — In standing across from the north shore, beware of the Bed Islet bank, which extends 2^ miles to the eastward, from the low shingle islet of the same name, as shown by the red buoy, which is now moored on its east end in 5^ fathoms at low water, with the lighthouse on Bed islet, which shows a Jixed red light, bearing S.W. \ W., and distant CHAT. III.] DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 47 2-^ miles (page 242). There is another red buoy on the west end of the Red island bank. A beacon has been erected above and behind the lighthouse on Green island, to lead vessels clen" . this danger, and it answers the purpose extremely well. It is white, like the lighthouse, but much smaller ; and when they are in one bearing, S.S.E. the beacon appears in the middle of a lane cut through woods behind it. A vessel standing over with this leading mark on, will pass over the tail of the Red Islet bank, in from 5 to 8 fathoms, according to the time of tide. This beacon will be readily distinguished in the day time ; but if a stranger should have any doubt of it, let him be sure not to bring the Green island lighthouse, or light at night, to bear at all to the eastward of S. by E. ^ E., and he will be in no danger. Crossing, below the bank, with the light upon that bearing, there will be found from 9 to 12 fathoms, according io the time of tide, at a mile distance from the bank. Violent breaking and whirling ripplings of the tide, whioh can be heard at a great distance in a still night, will be met with in crossing, and are alarming enough to strangers, but there is no danger with the lead going, and an anchor clear to let go in the event of its suddenly falling calm near the bank. Red Islet bank is, however, very dangerous, and the first of the floods sets strongly over it, in a direction from Bergeron coves towards Green island. The ebb out of the Saguenay also sets upon it, so that a stranger should not make too free with it. If a vessel cannot fetch the anchorage under Green Island reef, she may anchor anywhere, in fine weather, along the south bank between Bic and Green island, and will have good ground in 12 fathoms at low water, and plenty of room to get under weigh. In coming up with a north-west wind, the north shore should be kept close aboard until up to Bergeron, and if it be flood tide the vessel may pass either northward or southward of Red islet, as may be preferred, but the former passage should not be attempted with this wind during the ebb, nor yet the other, except by those who are well acquainted with the set of the tides. Although the passage to the northward of Red islet is the quickest, there being a much stronger stream of flood in that channel, yet it cannot by any means be recommended : on the contrary, it should never be at- tempted unless the breeze appears certain to continue, for if it fell calm, the vessel would run great risk of being drawn in by the stream of flood among the dangerous shoals off the mouth of the Saguenay, or being set down upon Red Islet bank When the rapid ebb made out of that river, which is BO strong and the water eo deep, that no anchor would hold. ^ ■ ^ 48 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OUAP. III. To pnH8 to tho southward of Red islet with the Hame wind, haul round the east end of tho reef, and as close to tho southward of it as is prudent coming no nearer than 20 fathoms until past the islet. T(» those who are well acquainted both with tho soundings and set of the tides, it may ho desirablo to keep closer in attempting tho passage with an ebb tide, but it cannot be recommended to strangers. More full directions for this part of tho river will be given at the com- mencement of Part II., Chap. X., which will begin at Green island.* BXXaoTXOxrs down the BBTVAKT and OVkr. — For the return voyage down tho Estuary and Gulf, littlo or no instruction seems neces- sary, as long as tho wind remains fair and tho weather clear, beyond what may bo gathered from tho Admiralty charts and the preceding remarks. But where vessels are met by easterly winds and thick weather anywhere above Point do Monts, great caution, attention to the soundings and set of tho tides and currents, become necessary to ensure safety, particularly during the long nights and wild weather in tho fall of the year. Vessels beating down the St. Lawrence usually stop at tho Brandy Pots for a fair wind. But supposing, after they have passed Green island, that tho fair wind fails, and they are met with an easterly wind before they have arrived near the island of Bic, they should, in that case, run up again to the Brandy Pots, especially if late, or very qarly in tho navigable season ; for all that they will gain by beating about in thick weather, probably for several days and nights in succession, will not be worth the risk. But if they have reached far enough down at tho com- mencement of the adverse wind, the island of Bic affords good shelter and anchorage, which should bo sought in time, before the fog commences (page 101). There is no other anchorage which can be recommended lower down nearer than the Seven islands, and after that Gasp4. There are other places, which will be mentioned hereafter, in some of which vessels ride for taking in timber, but there they are mooied close in shore, with lower yards and topmasts struck, by which means they ride out bad weather, with very indifferent shelter ; but such places are not fit for occasional anchorages, or for a heavy laden ship to run for on an emergency. In a vessel beating down, the south bank should be the guide in thick weather, or at night. She should tack from it, after striking soundings on its edge, and should not stand to the northward more than half-channel .■■■|i :1 * The light on Bed islet, and the buoys recently placed on its bank, together with the haoja on the shoals off the entrance of the Saguenay (see pages 241-257) have greatljr lessened the difficulty of this navigation. CHAT. III.] DIRECTIONS DOWN THE ESTUABY. 49 over in anj part : thun keeping in the Htrongth of tlio downward current, and avoiding tiio poHuibility of accident from tlio (thoals of the north coant, which l^ing very steep, and affording little or no warning by the lead, have proved fat-al to many vcbmIh under theue oircurautance«. 'a''4f arraoTS Qf tibbs. — It will bo almost always Hccn when the Teasel comes upon the south bank of soundings, by there being so much loss aea there than in the deep water, and strength of the weather current, outside : a strong ripple will be observed at the edge of the bank during the flood tide. In the board from near Bicquettc, during the flood tide, the vessel will go to the northward rather ftister than to the southward back again, whilst in the ebb, the contrary will be the case. But aliovo the Razilde islets, she will go much faster to the southward than to the northward, in both tides. Lower down the Estuary, and as far down as Cbpe St. Anne, she will generally go faster to the southward than to the ncirthward during the ebb tide : whilst in the flood, an indraught itito the rivers will be felt on approaching near the north coast fVom Bersimis ]^oint, nearly down to Cape St. Nicholas. The least reflection upon what has been said of the set of the tides and currents (pages 27, 28) will account for thece efiects. OAUTioir. — In a vessel boating down in a dark night, or thick weather, there i: no safety unless the lead bo kept constantly going : when she is approaching the south coast, in the board to the southward, sail should be sufficiently reduced for soundings to be easily obtained, and everything in readiness to tack, or veer, at the shortest notice. These precautions become the more necessary as the vessel descends the Estuary, and the bank of soundings becomes narrower. Off Matan there are 30 fathoms, sandy bottom, 1^ miles off" shore ; and 60 fathoms, ut 3 miles off: whilst, at the distance of 5 miles from the land, no bottom will be found at 100 fathoms. The riouth bank becomes narrower still to the eastward of Matan, and cca.:cs, in consequence, to be of use to vessels. Off Cape Chatte there are 30 fathoms water, little more than half a mile from the shore ; a short distance farther off there are no soundings at 70 fathoms ; and between it and the Point de Monts, from 150 to 170 fathoms, blue mud bottom. BBKOii^ vonrr de mobtb there is plenty of sea-room, and although the lead will there be of little use, yet the south coast is so high and bold that it may generally be seen, if the fog be no thicker than is usual with a regular easterly wind up the St. Lawrence. Lower down still, with a beating wind and thick weather, soundings may be struck off the west end of Anticosti, or between the West and South-west points of that island, if it be wished to asoertain how far the [ST.L.] — VOL. I. D 50 OULF AND RIVEB 8T. LAWRENCE. [chat. in. vessel is over to the northward before night. Eastward of the South-west point of AnticoBti, to Pavilion river, the bank of soundings off the south side of the island is very narrow ; but from the latter to the East point, there is plenty of warning by the deep sea lead, as will be seen by the soundings in the chart. The channel to the northward of Anticosti cannot be recommended in the voyage down the St. Lawrence, because there is not only less room, but also less current in favour ; neither the route by the Strait of Belle Isle, on account of the straggling icebergs, which are in general to be met with there through all the navigable season. Towards the fall of the year, however, vessels occasionally pass through it, in anticipation of the northerly winds which prevail at that season in the Atlantic ; they should be well acquainted with the currents, and should know the anchorages on the north side of the Strait, noticed in pages 129 to 133. ,. ^, . The foregoing general directions have purposely not been interrupted by particular descriptions of the coasts, or places, alluded to ; the latter, together with directions for the harbours, anchorages, and dangers, will Jb9 found in the following Chapters. 1 i/fi I V.I n^^ ' 51 CHAPTER IV. ISLANDS IN TUE GULP OP ST. LAWRENCE. Variation, 35° to 37^° Wkit in 1860. »Ara tmhMM9, lying in the main entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between the Houth-west extreme of Newfoundland, and the north extreme of Cape Breton island, ia composed of primary rocks, principally mica slate, dipping at an angle of not less than 45° to the southward.* It is nearly 3 miles long, by one mile broad. Its north-east point is a small detached islet, (although it does not appear as such from the sea,) which is separated by a very narrow channel from a peninsula, between 300 and 400 feet high, which, together with the isthmus, is so precipitous as to lie nearly inaccessible. The remaining greater part of the island, which is also steep and precipitous towards the sea, has two parallel ranges of hi'ls, that on the eastern coast being the highest, and attaining an elevation of 450 feet. A valley runs through between these hills, having two small lakes or ponds 200 or 300 feet above the sea. These supply the principal stream on the island, which is about 2 yards wide, of yellowish brown water, well- tasted and wholesome, and descending into the sea in the southern part of Trinity cove. There are several other, but much smaller runs of water, one of which is into Atlantic cove. These two coves are nearly a mile from the south-west extremity of the island, the first being on the Gulf side, and the other on that which is towards the Atlantic, as its name implies. They afford the only shelter for boats, and the only good landing on the island, which is easier of ascent from them than at any other part. The island is partially wooded with dwarf and scrubby spruce trees, useless, excepting for fuel. The only inhabitants are two men, in charge of a depdt of provisions for the relief of shipwrecked persons, supported by the government of New Brunswick. These men reside on the north point of Trinity cove, where th'jre is a dwelling-house and store. They grow a few potatoes, and shoot ducks during the winter. ' * See Flan of St. Paul Island, with views, No. 304; seal*, mm\'0 inch) and Uag- dalen Islands with views, No. 1,194 ; scale, m « 0*33 of an ineb. D 2 X 52 ISLANDS IN GULF OP ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. XT. and also in the spring and autumn. A very few foxes are the only wild animals upon the island ; there is no feathered game, or anything else to support life. The ocean, however, compensates for the deficien- cies of the land ; codfish and halibut are often plentiful around the island, and mackarel and herrings may be taken at times in their seasons. AVCKOSAOB. — Off Trinity and Atlantic coves small fishing schooners anchor, with the wind off shore, in 10 or 12 fathoms, sand and gravel bottom, and at the distance of 2 cables from the rocks. In very fine weather large vessels might venture to ride with a stream anchor, in from 25 to 30 fathoms, about half a mile off shore, but should be in constant readiness to weigh at the first sign of a change in the wind or weather. Farther off shore the water becomes extremtely deep, so that there is little or no warning by the lead in approaching this island m foggy weather. On this account, although so bold and high, it is ex- tremely dangerous, and many shipwi'ecks have taken place upon its shores, attended with a most melancholy sacrifice of human life. ' '' "="*'= The irregularity of the tidal streams and currents add much to the danger arising from the fogs, which prevail in southerly, easterly, and often also with south-west winds. During the whole of a fine calm day at the end of June, the current set to the south-east, at the rate of one knot past the north point of the island. &ZOKTS. — Two lighthouses stand on St. Paul island, one on the detached rock within 26 feet of the north point of the island, and the other on the extreme south-west point (page 30). . ,. . ,, , , , .. ', , ,,.,-. ... .. The lighthouse on the lock is 40 feet high, of an octagon shape, con- structed of wood and painted white. It exhibits a^ed white light, which can be seen from a vessel on any bearing, excepting between N. by E. and £. by N., when it is hidden by the island. The lighthouse on the south-west point, also an octagonal white building of wood, and 40 feet high, exhibits a revolving white light, which is visible on all bearings, except between S.S.E. and West, when i^ is concealed by the intervening land. Both lights are elevated 140 feet above the level of the sea, and when the weather is clear^ they may be seen from a distance of 18 miles. In fogs a bell is sounded, and a gun fired every /our hours from the lighthouse on the south-west pojnt^ A boat is kept on the island. • , / , , ,• .r.;,, , m., ., ,,. ,„„„^. I BIBS Bocxs, lying about N.N.W., 55 miles from St. Faul island, are of coarse red sandstone, or conglomerate, in strata dipping very slightly to the south-west, and are constantly diminishing in size from the action of the sea. They present perpendicular cliffs on every side ; yet it is possible to ascend them with great difiiculty in one or two places, CBAP. IV.] ST. PAUL ISLAND. — BIRD ROCKS. flU but tliero is no landing upon them except in the calmest sea. Every ledge and fissure of the cliffs is occupied by gannets, and the summits of both rocks are literally covered with them. The white plumage of these birds gives these rocks the appearance of being capped with snow, and renders them visible through a night glass in a clear and moonlight night from the distance of 7 or 8 miles. The two rocks bear from each other N.N.W.^W. and S.S.E. ^ E., and are 7 cables apart. Sunken rocks leave only a boat passnge between them. The south-easternmost is the largest and highest, though scarcely 2 cables long, and not more than 140 feet high above the sea. The other is divided into two precipitous mounds joined together by a Iomt ledge. The lesser of these mounds resembles a tower. A reef extends 7 cables to the eastward, from the Little or north-west Bird rock, and there is a patch of breakeis nearly midway between the two, and rather to the south-west of a line drawn from one io the other. The Great, or south-east Bird rock, is quite bold, excepting in the direction of the other rock. The Little Bird rock, bears N.E. by E. -^ E., distant 16J miles from the East point of the Magdalen islands, and E. | S. 10^ miles from the east end of Bryon island. The soundings off the Bird rocks to the eastward, have been already stated in page 31 ; they extend still farther off to the northward, so as to afford the most ample warning and assistance to vessels ut night, or in foggy weather, as will bo seen in the chart. Between them and the East point of the Magdalen islands, the depth nowhere exceeds 16 or 17 fathoms, over a bottom of reddish sand, and sea-eggs are very frequently brought up by the lead. OAUTZoar. — ^Between the Bird rocks and Bryon island there is a ridge of rocky and foul ground, on some parts of whicli, it has been said, there is as little as 4 fathoms water, because bottom has been seen in calm weather. Nothing, however, less than 7 fathoms could be found ; but it may nevertheless exist, so that a vessel of largo draught had better not cross this ridge when there is much sea running. The two cli% points on the north side of Bryon island, in one, mark the northern limits of this rocky ground. BBTOXtr xs&Airs, which is uninhabited, is rather more than 4 miles long, in a W. by N. and E. by S. direction, with the exti*cme breadth of rather more than a mile. Its eastern end bears from the east point of the Magdalen islands, N by E. ^ E. 10^ miles, but its south-west point approaches to within 8| miles of the North cape of those islands. There was no opportunity of measuring the height of Bryon island, but it nowhere exceeds 200 feet above the sea. The cliffs on the north side 54 ISLANDS IN GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. it. are much higher than those on the south, where there are several small coves in which boats may land easily with the wind off shore. This island is formed of alternaiing and neaily horizontal strata of red sandstone, red ochreous clay, and shaley grey sandstone. These rocks are soft and friable, forming perpendicular or overhanging cliffs nearly all round the island, which ai-e broken in holes and caverns, showing how fast they are giving way to the action of the waves. The soil is similar to that of the Magdalen islands. A great part of the island is wooded with dwarf spruce trees, and there is a large upland tract covered with good native grass. . ; \rater. — Water is neither plentiful nor easy to be obtained at Bryon island, but it may be had in small quantities by digging, and there is a spring on the north side of the narrow isthmus which joins the eastern peninsula to the remainder of the island. I. — There are three reefs off Bryon island. One off its east end ^ extends nearly three-quarters of a mile to the north-eastward ; another off the west end extends 1^ miles to the westward ; and the third, off the sandy south-west point, 1^ miles to the southward. No marks can be given for clearing these reefs, but the bearings of the land will afford sufficient guidance to the seaman. The reef off the south-west point is so much in the way of vessels passing between it and the Magdalen islands, that it may be useful to add, that from the southern ridge of this reef Bryon island subtends an angle of 97°, so that with the island subtending any less angle the reef may be passed. The south reef assists greatly in turning off the sea from the roadstead to the eastward of it, where vessels may safely anchor in 6 fathoms water and a sandy bottom, at the distance of a mile or more from the shoi-e, and with all winds from N.E., round by north, to W.N.W. Small vessels in heavy north-west gales Lj at anchor close under the reef. There are regular soundings from 9 to 1 1 fathoms, with sandy bottom between Bryon and the Magdalen islands, with the exception of an extensive patch of foul and rocky ground, lying between S.W. ^ W. and W.S.W. from the west end of Bryon island, and having a clear channel on either side of it, as will be seen in the chart. Not less than 5 fathoms could be found here, and although the fishermen see bottom upon it in calm weather, there is every reason to think that there is no less water. Nevertheless vessels of large draught had better not run over it, when there is a heavy sea running, for a small point of rock, with a few feet less water, might escape the most rigorous examination. The rocky places are called fishing grounds by the inhabitants of the '«*. OBAP. IT.] BBYON ISLAND. — MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 55 Magdalen islands, because codfish abound upon them. There is one carry- ing 1 1 fathoms water, 2^ miles North of Bryon island, and wh'ch extends a considerable distance parallel to the island. There is sandy boUom, and a greater depth of water within this ridge, and vessels may anchor in fine weather and southerly winds, off the bay on the north side of the island. The soundings extend so far off Bryon island to seawai-d in every direc- tion, that there is no possibility of a vessel on a voyage being endangered by it, if the lead be used. But great caution is requisite in approaching- the reefs, for they are very steep, especially that which extends to the southward. MAOBA&air iBKAarss.— This chain of islands assume an irregular curved direction, the greatest length of which, from the south- west cape of Amherst island to the east point, is 35 miles ; but if the smaller isles be included, as they evidently form a part of the Magdalen group, the whole length of the range, from the Deadman to the Great Bird rock, is 56 miles, is an E.N.E. direction.* The central parts of these islands rise into hills, with rounded and frequently dome-shaped summits, attaining an elevation above the sea wying from 200 to 580 feet, and which ai-e in general of igneous, or trap y.). Around, and on the flanks of these hills, are stratified deposits of ' ' dstone and ochreous clays, with gypsum in the hollows and basins, and also occasionally in veins. No rock-salt has been found upon the islands, but the water of many springs and small streams is sufficiently saline to be nearly unfit for use. The gypsum forms an article of commerce, and some valuable ochreous pigments are also found upon the islands, but the principal dependence of the inhabitants is upon the cod-fishery. The herring and seal fisheries are also prosecuted to a limited extent, The islands are partially wooded, but the trees are small, and mostly spruce, juniper, birch, and Canadian poplar. The unwooded parts pro- duce good grass, and afford pasturage for cattle and sheep ; but they are far less abundant than the pigs, which are fed upon the offal of the fish, and make very bad meat in consequence. The general character of the soil is sterile, for although good vegetable mould may occasionally be met with, yet, on examination, it usually proves to be superficial, being only a few inches in depth, and having beneath it either the rock or siliceous and ferruginous sands. The climate is severe ; not quite so cold as at Quebec in winter, but less warm in summer. Bains, and especially fogs, are extremely frequent, and without this humid atmo- sphere the islands would be deprived of the little fertility which they * See Chart of the Magdalen Iilanda, with viewa, No. 1,134 ; ecale, m s= 0*33 of an inch. 56 ISLANDS IN GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. it. possess ; the dry and meagre soil requiring copious and continual supplies of moisture. Jmiu'-I i: ■:'' ■'! .;■• .' ■ . .••*•;!%< r£i Oiij. ^ .When first made from sea, the Magdalen islands appear like several hilly islands, with channels between, but, on a nearer approach, they are seen to be all connected together, with the exception of Entry island, by a double line of sand-bars and beaches, inclosing extensive lagoons, having very narrow entrances, by which the tide finds access and egress. These sand-baxB are in some parts only a few feet above the sea, whilst in others they rise into hills of blown sand of considerable elevation. They appear to be increasing, since there are generally ridges of sand with from 9 to 12 feet water parallel to, and from 50 to 100 fathoms outside the beach. There are 3 and 4 fathoms water between these ridges and the shore, A circumstance which has often proved fatal to the '• crews of vessels wrecked upon these shores. These hilly islands thus disposed in a curvili- near shape, and connected together by sand-bars, inclosing lagoons, remind one forcibly of those islands in tropical seas which are connected together by coral reefs. In a bright sunny day of summer, the cliffs of various colours in which different shades of red predominate, and the yellow of the sand-bars con- trasted with the green pastures of the hill sides, the darker green of the spruce trees, and the blue of sea and sky, produce an effect extremely beautiful, and one which distinguishes these islands from anything else in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In stormy weather, the appearance is equally tharacteristic. Isolated hills and craggy cliffs are then dimly seen through the rain and mist which accompany an easterly gale, and appear joined by lolag ranges of breakers, which almost hide the sand-bars. At such times it is dangerous to attempt making the islands, for in approaching the loTfer parts, the breakers would probably be the first thing scon from a vessel. ■■'•■* -^'sf" >f'mi->j-.. t •;]>■; « ■ !■ .■ • . • .♦ .!. 'f' ■•"•.*. ■• , ' ii,., Vopttiatton. — There are at present, in 1860, upon the Magdalen islands about 1,100 inhabitants, the majority of whom are of French extraction, and who all inhabit Amherst, Grindstone, and Alright islands, with the exception of about 11 or 12 families divided between Entry island, Grosso isle, and East island, near the north-east extremity of the chain. ■nppUei. — Vessels may obtain limited supplies of frosh provisions, especially at Entry island, and water most readily from Amherst harbour, either from a spring which issues from under the Demoiselle hill, or from a small stream which falls into Ance a la Cabane, near the south-west cape of the island. Wood for fuel is becoming scarce near the settlements. Large epars are not to be had, unless when they chance to be saved from wrecks, but small ones, of spruce and juniper may be obtained. The latter, CHAP. IT.] MAGDALEN ISLANDS ; EAST COAST. 57 of which the inhabitants build their fishing-boats and shallops or small schooners, somewhat resembles larch-wood ; it is said to be extremely strong and durable. The Magdalen islands possess no harbour for ships, but three for small vessels, named Amherst, House, and Grand Entry harbours, which will be noticed in the following concise description of the shores of the islands and the dangers off them. SAST 90XNT, forming the north-east extreme of the Magdnlcn isluuds, 13 of low sand, inclosing several shallow ponds, and having several sand- liiVis^ some of which are near its extremity, while others, of greater eleva- tion and farther to the westward, extend in a chain nearly to the North- etist cape. These last-mentioned sand-hills are inland, and on the margin of the north-eastern part of the great lagoon. The North-east cape is a hill on East island, at the head of Grand Entry harbour. It is a remarkable cape, and its isolated cliffs, being 230 feet high, can be seen over all the sand-hills and sand-bars, so that, when these last are below the horizon, the cape appears to be the eastern extremity of the chain. . • ' liOWO : XT is a ridge of sand, with from 2 to 3 fathoms water, which extends S.. . ^ S. rather more than l-^ miles off East point, and for 1^ miles farther in the same direction, the depth is from 4 to 6 fathoms. To clear this spit observe, that the southern part of Cofiin island is a peninsula, forming the southern shore of the Oyster pond, and connected to the remainder of the island by a low neck- or isthmus at the west end of the pond. Now, the mark for the 3 fathoms extremity of the spit is the north side of this peninsula on with the Old Harry head. And the south side of the northern part of Coffin island, (where the narrow neck joins it, as above mentioned,) on with the Old Harry head will lead over the spit in 4 fathoms. The mariner with the chart before him will have little difficulty in making out these leading marks, but may, if he pleases, pass round the spit, by the lead, in 5 or 6 fathoms, taking care not to bring the Old Harry to bear to the southward of West. To know when a vessel from the east- ward has passed it, observe that the line of the summit of the North cape on with the east side of the North-cast cape leads nearly half a mile to the south-west, which mark will also be useful to a vessel approaching it from the westward. The tides set rapidly over this spit, and, together with the shoal water, cause a heavy breaking sea. It is extremely dan- gerous, and vessels should take care not to get becalmed near it without an anchor clear. BOTXtB MMMT lies S.E. ^ E., distant 6| miles from the East point of the Magdalen islands, and consists of pointed rocks. It is very small, being 58 ISLANDS IN GULF OF ST. LAWBENCE. [ORAT. IT. OBAF. only 3 cables long, and half a cable wide from the depth of 6 fathoms to 6 fathoms on either side of it. The least water is 3 fathoms on one spot nearly in the centre, and there are 12 and 13 fathoms all around it. The only mark for this reef is the North cape of the Magdalen islands, open two-thii-ds of its breadth to the north-east* of the North-east cape. On the reef, the angle between these marks and the western point of Coffin island is 24° 27'. Lying completely in the way of vessels, and very seldom showings the sea breaking upon it only in heavy gales, Doyle reef may justly be considered as one of the worst dangers off the Magdalen islands. It was examined and laid down for the first time during the Admiralty survey of this part of the Gulf, and was previously known only to a few persons on the islands, who reported that they had at different times seen vessels disappear, which they concluded had struck upon it. OKB BASXT BBAB, the south-east point of Coffin island, is formed of red sandstone cliffs of moderate height, with a reef off it otie third of a mile to the south-east. It is the first headland to the westward of East point, from which it is distant 4^ miles. Between them is a sandy bay, in which vessels may anchor, with good shelter, in all winds from West, round by north, to N.E. ; but it is not a place to be recommended^ because a vessel would be there very much embayed by the shoals on either side, and might find it difficult to get out on the occurrence of a sudden shift of wind either at night, or attended with fog. ,.' coKVMBnra bboa&b. — The outermost of these shoals is a patch of rocks with 3 fathoms over it, from which Old Harry head bears N.N.E. ^ £. 2^ miles. Within this, and towards Coffin island, are numerous small shoal patches and pointed rocks, on some of which there are not more than 3 feet at low water. These shoals are extremely dangerous, and much in the way of vessels hauling round East point with northerly winds. To clear their east side, the whole of the high North-east cape must be kept well open to the eastward of the Old Harry. There are no good marks for clearing the west side, or for leading clear outside of them, so that the only guide for the latter purpose is not to bring East point to bear to the eastward of N.E., and, for the former, is not to bring the west end of Coffin island to the westward of N.W. | N. But although there are no good marks, an angle with a quadrant will answer the purpose as well and as easily. On the outer edge of these shoals, the angle between Old Harry head and the left or west extremity of Coffin island is 77° ; consequently, with these points subtending any less angle, the vessel will pass outside of the shoals. OBAP. IT.] MAGDALEN ISLANDS ; EAST COAST. 69 oomar la&AWS extends 4 miles to the westward of the Old Harry, having on its south side a lagoon with a very narrow outlet, called the Oyster pond, and which boats can only enter in fine weather. Off the coast of the island there are several rocks, besides the Columbine shoals, but as these are in-shore, and out of the way of vessels, it is suffi- cient to refer to them, and to remark, that this is a very dangerous part of the islands, which should never be approached at night or in foggy weather. lOim has its entrance betnreen the south-west end of Coffin iskn' ai ' 5 sand bars to the wep^vrard of it, and has water enough within i^, .arge |M>; . ;i-W , MJtBXQiWCV saar, the outer edge of which lies E. j S. 3;^ miles from Cape Alright, is 4 cables long by 3 cables wide, and is composed of white and pointed rocks, having over them 6 feet least water. Wlien on this reef the Bute-Rondc is in one with the summit of Grindstone island ; the west side of Cape Alright, is in line with the west side of Cape Meules; and the whole of tho woody Wolf island is just open to the westward of Shag island. The well marked summit of Grindstone island open to the south-westward of Capo Alright will lead the south-west ; and the east side of the woods of Wolf island (seen over the sand-bars) open to the eastward of Shag island, will lead to tho south-east. The north-east point of Entry island bears S. ^ E., 7 miles, from Cape Alright ; and the channel between them leads into Pleasant bay, passing previously between Alright reef and the Pearl reef. is small and dangerous, and of Avhite pointed rocks, like most of the reefs around these islands. It is round, and about 2 cables in diameter, with 9 feet least water ; and even with a moderate swell the sea breaks heavily upon it. From it Cape Alright bears N.W. ^ N., and is distant 8^ miles ; the norih-east point of Entry island W. by S., 4^ miles ; the Demoiselle hill is open one quarter of a point to the northward of the cliffs of Entry island, and exactly on with the extremity of the north-west spit, above water, of the same island (this spit, however, can be seldom seen from the reef) ; and the three high cliffs, on the south-west side of Alright island, are nearly in one, bearing N.W. ^ N., when the north-westernmost of those cliffs will be seen over thfe middle one, and between it and the south-easternmost. Hence, keep- ing all those cliffs open will lead the reef to the westward, of the reef ; and the north-westernmost cliff completely bLui, in behind the other two OIUP. IT.] MAGDALEN ISLANDS; EAST COAST. 61 will lead to tlie eastward. The Demoiselle hill ebut in btliind the north Hide of Entry island will lead to the Bouthward ; and the Demoiselle kept more than half a point open to the northward of Entry island will lead to the northward. Bovsa HASBOVK 13 distant 2| miles to the north-west from Cape Alright. Its entrance ie a narrow and crooked channel, carrying only 6 feet at low water. MMO OAVa, bearing W. ^ S. 5 miles from Capo Alright, is the southern point of Giindstone island, and the north point of Pleasant bay. The opposite point of the bay, Sandy Hook, is the east point of Amherst island, and bears from the Red cape S. by E. ^ E., 6 miles. From this line to the shore of Amherst island at the head of the bay, the distanr-o is 4^ miles. Between Red cape and House harbour is Cape Moule, of grey sandstone, off which there is a rock, with 5 feet of water ; zjid there is another rock, with 3 feet, off the west side of Aliight island. These will be seen in the chart, and, as they lie out of the way of vessels, require no farther notice. ■■')"■ . . ' ' '.',■'' ■ ' osnmBTOira X8&Aan> is the second largest of the chain, being, in this respect, inteimediate between Amherst atid Alright islands. Its summit is elevated 550 feet above the sea at high water. > t BST iSKAxno, the largest and south-westernmost of the Mag- dalen islands, is connected with Grindstone island by a double line of sand-bars, inclosing an extensive lagoon, 5 or 6 miles long, and from 1 to 3 miles wide, the southern part of which is called Basque harbour. This lagoon is full of sands, which are dry at low water, and has three outlets into Pleasant bay, the southernmost being the deepest, but having only 3 feet water over its bar at low water. The others, including three through the sand-bars of the north-west coast, will only admit boats at high water, and when the surf is not too high. The hills in the interior of Amherst island rise to the height of 550 feet above the sea. Towards the south-east part of the island, and about a mile to the N.W. of Amherst harbour, is the very remarkable conical hill, named the Demoiselle, of trap rock, and 280 feet high. The perpen- dicular and dark red cliffs of the Demoiselle are washed by the waters of Pleasant bay. , ' ' "' ' ' ' '••' ' ■ lOvs is formed by a peninsula, presenting cliffs of gray sandstone to seaward, in the south-west corner of Pleasant bay. Its entrance, between this peninsula and the sands to the southward, is 2^ miles within, or to the westward of the extremity of Sandy Hook, which i„ , . ..-V 62 ISLANDS IN QULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. [OBAT. IT. is a long and narrow sandy point with sand-hills. This harbour is the easiest of access and egress of any in the Magdalen islands, and has, more< over, the advantage of an excellent roadstead outside, where vessels may wait their opportunity of running in. Nevertheless, its entrance is ex- tremely narrow and rather crooked, so that, without a pilot, it would be necessary to buoy or stake the channel. The depth over the bar, which is rocky, is 7 feet at low and from 9 to 10 feet at high water, according as it may be neap or spring tides. Within the harbour there are from 12 to 17 feet, over a bottom of soft, black, and fetid mud, well sheltered from every wind.* 'ii; i VKBASAVT SAT is the best roadstead in the Magdalen islands, and the only one where vessels can venture to lie with all winds, during the three finest months of summer, June, July, and August. In those months, a gale of wind from the eastward, so heavy as to endanger a vessel with good anchors and cables, does not occur above once in three or four years. The riding, however, is often heavy and rough enough in north-east gales, and a vessel should be well moored with a whole cable on each anchor, and open hawse to seaward, and all snug aloft. The best and most sheltered anchorage is in 4 fathoms, with the rocky point of entrance of Amherst harbour bearing S.W. | W., two-thirds of a mile, and a little more than half a mile from high water mark on the sandy beach to the southward, when a remarkable and high sand hill will bear S. ^ E. A vessel of large draught should anchor farther off, and -should take notice that there is only from 3 to 3^ fathoms in one part of the bay, as will be seen in the chart. The bottom is everywhere excellent for holding, and of red sandy clay. A vessel anchored as above, will be sheltered from E. by N. ^ N., round south and west, to N.E. ^ N., and will, consequently, have only 3 points completely open. Even when the wind comes right in, the sea is much lessened by passing over so much of shoal water; nevertheless, the attempt to ride out a heavy easterly gale, either before June, or after August, will be attended with great danger ; and Pleasant bay cannot be recommended as a desirable place under such circumstances at any time of the year. In the northern and western parts of the bay, sandy flats extend more than a mile from the beach. BAXBT-Boox OBAanni&, oetween Amherst and Entry islands, is 2^ miles wide, but an extensive sandy shoal runs out 2 miles to the east- ward from Sandy-hook, so as to leave a navigable breadth of little more than half a mile between it and the rocky shoals off the west side of * Sire Flan of Amherst Harbour, No. 1,143 ; scale, m -i 3 inohei. OBAJP. IT.] MAODALBN ISLANDS ) EAST COAST. 63 Entry inland. Four fathomi can be carried through this channel hj % good pilot, but 8^ fathoms ia the utmost that can be safely reckoned on by a stranger. There are several rocky patches of 2^ fathoms off the south- west point of Entry island, reaching to fully three quarters of a mile from the shore. The ebb tide sets strongly through this channel, and over Sand} hook flat, so that vessels of large draught should go round to the eastward of Entry island, rather than encounter so many difUcultieB. lonovB. — To run through Sandy-hook channel from the south- ward, keep the east side of Alright island just open to the westward of the shingle and sandy spit forming the north-west point of Entry island, until abreast of the south-west point of the last-named island, then haul up for the summit of Grindstone island, looking out for the edge of the sand shoal to the westward, which can generally bo seen. kT Miduro is the highest of the Magdalen islands, its summit being 'fiSO feet above the sea at high water. Its red cliffs are magnificent and beautiful, rising at the north-east point to 350 feet, and at the south point to 400 feet of perpendicular height. Off the north-east point there is the High rock, about half a cable's length from the cl' Js, and on its north side the remarkable Tower rock, of red sandstone, joined to the island, and which can be seen from the south-west over the low nortb-west point, m well as from the north-oast. ■nppilM. — The inhabitants of Entry island raise cattle and sheep, depending more upon the sale of fresh provisions than the fisheries. Vessels may, therefore, almost always obtain supplies. AWOHOmAOB. — Vessels occasionally anchor under Entry island in northerly and easterly winds, but it is rough riding, by reason of the sea which rolls round the island. The best anchorage in easterly winds is in Sandy-hook channel under the north-west spit, in 6 fathoms, sand. ' Besides the rocky patches in Sandy -hook channel, and off the south- west point of Entry island, there are others off the south and south-east sides, extending a quarter of a mile off shore. lOMAOBa BOOXB are several mere points of rock with deep water between them, lying off the north-east point of Entry island. The two nearest the shore, with 1 1 feet water, do not extend beyond 1^ cables from High rock. Two others, with 17 feet water, are distant 2 cables and 2^ cables respectively from High rock on the same line of bearing ; and lastly, there is a patch, carrying 8^ fathoms, fully one-third of a mile out in the same direction. There is a clear channel between these rocks and the Pearl reef, which lies 4 miles farther off on the same bearing, E. by N. (page 60,) and yessels, passing to the eastward of Entry [ . • 64 ISLANDS IN OULF OP ST. LAWRENCE. [oiur. rr. i island, will therefore bo in no danger, if they do not haul round High rock at a less distance than half a mile. IT zs&AVD. — The south coast of AmherHt island, consisting of sand-hills and beaches, with shoal water half a mile off, curves round to tho westward, for 6 or 7 miles, to tho entrance of tho Basin, which extends nearly across tho island to within less than half a milo of Pleasant bay. Tho Basin is now so nearly closed with sand, that boats can only enter at high water, and in the finest weather ; but, formerly, the entrance was deep enough for large schooners, and it has been IVequented by those vessels within tho memory of the elder inhabitants. There is good anchorage off the entiance, in from 6 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, and with winds from N.W., roand by north, to East. ' • "> >.'>•». \nii A mile and a half to the westwai'd of tho entrance of the Basin, cliffs commence and continue, except in Cabane bay, to tho West cape, which is the highest cliff of Amherst island, its summit being SOO feet above the tea. There is a remarkable rock above water close to the shore, and about a quarter of a mile to tho southward of it. •I I J 1' I ■>< 1 ' is a small bight, between the South and South-west capes of Amherst island, where vessels may safely anchor with northerly and easterly winds, and whero good water may easily be obtained. The best berth is in 8 or 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, off the centre of the bay, with the South cape and ( vpe Perci in one^ three-quarters of a mile off shore. xs&BT, bearing N.W, ^ W., 7J miles nearly from the West cape of the Magdalen islands, is very small, being not more tlian 3 cables long, in an E.S.E. direction, and less than half that in breadth. It is about 170 feet high, with steeply sloping sides, meeting at the sum- mit like a prism, so that when seen end on, it resembles a pyramid. When seen from a distance with its longest sides presented to view, its outline very much resembles that of a body laid out for burial, from which cir- cumstance its name is derived. The islet is composed principally of trap rocks, and when seen close to, on a bright sunny day, with the white surf da«hing against its variously coloured sides, it is a very beautiful object. It is so bold on tho west side, that a vessel may pass within the distance of 2 cables with safety, but a reef extends one-third of, a mile towards Amherst island. .x....^, ... v, ,:- >! ., > (.- / ';• About a mile to the northward of this islet there is a rocky fishing ground with 8 fathoms least water ; and 6 miles S.S. W. }j W. of it, there is another with 11 fathoms. There is no danger nearer than the White Horse, and vessels may safely pass between it and Amherst island. It is, however, much in ihe wa/ of those passing rouAd the west OBAP. IT.] MAGDALEN ISLANDS ; SOUTH AND WEST COASTS. 65 end of tho Magdalen islands, and thoy should beware of it at night, or in foggy weather, for tho lead will give little warning, since there is nearly M much water within half a mile of it as at tho distance of several miles. > m 0«nb& is&AWB. — From the West cape of Amherst iHland, the remainder of tho sea-coast of Amherst island consists of red cliffH, without beach, but having shoal water one-third of a mile off shore, all the way to West lake, a small pond at the south-west end of the sand-bars which join Amherst and Grindstone islands. At tho north-east extremity of these sand-bars is Gull islet, which is small, rocky, and close to the western point of Grindstone island, and has shoal water off its west point to tho distance of one-third of a mile. About 1^ miles to the south-west of it, nearly 1^ miles off the north-west outlet of Basque harbour, and vith the west sii!i) of Gull islet and Gros Cap in one, lies a rocky shoal with 3 fathonr -i at low water, and leaving no good passage between it and tho sboro. Close to the north-east of Gull island ia tho Etang du Nord, a mall inle*. affording good shelter to boats. SOSVITA& moox. — The northern shore of Grindstone islnnd is oi red sandstone cliffs, less high than those of Amherst island. Nes : t is^r north- east extreme lies the Hospital rock, close to the shore, and alLv> some rocky 3 fathom patches, more than half a mile from the shore, as will bo seen in the chart. lira KOBsa is the name of a dangerous reef, lying N.''i^. by E. \ E., 7 miles from Deadman islet ; and W.N.W., 5^ miles from Gull islet. It is extremely small, being scarcely more than a cablo diameter, and having 10 feet least water over pointed rocks, on which tho sea often breaks. On this reef the summit of Entry island ia seen over a low part of tho sand-bars, at the north-east outlet of Basque harbour, but this mark cannot be easily discerned by a RtT;.;*r,er, nor is there any other ; but the bearings and distances, together with the chart, will be a sufficient guide. When on the reef, the western exti« vnity of Amherst island and Hospital cape (the north-eastern extrmiity of the cliffs of Grindstone island) subtend an angle of 91° 30' ; consequently, with these points sub- tending a less angle by 3 or 4 degrees, the vessel will pass outside of the reef. With a greater angle, 94 or 95 degrees, she will pass inside of it, or between it and the shore. There are irregular soundings and foul ground between this reef and the shore, but nothing less than 5 fathoms, excepting what has been already mentioned. [ST. L.] — ^VOL. I. ■ ■ 66 ISLANDS IN GULF OF ST. LAWE [crap. it. I.' WXMMMM de OBOS CAT, another dangerous reef of rocks, nearly of the same size as the White Horse, and having 18 feet least water, is seldom seen, as the sea breaks upon it only in very heavy weather. It lies N.E. by E. ^ E., 6 miles from the White Horse ; N. ;^ E. from the west point of Etang du Nord ; N.W. f W. from Hospital Cape, and 3f miles off Cape lo Trou, the nearest point of Grindstone island. When on the reef, the summit of Alright island is seen over the north-east point of Grindstone island, which is in the lagoon, and very nearly on with Hospital Cape ; and the Bute de Portage, a hill of Ajnherst island situated about 1^ miles N.W. of the Demoiselle, is midway or in the centre of the narrow passage between Gull island and the west point of Etang du Nord. These marks kept open will lead to the north- east and south-west of the reef ; and a vessel will pass well clear outside of it, and also of the White Horse, if Deadman islet be not brought to bear to the westward of S.W. ^ W. , , ... '.''' •ivyf ^rovr XBtukxm. — From Hospital Cape to Wolf island, off which there is a rocky 3-fathom shoal nearly half a mile from the shore, the northern .coast of the Magdalen islands consists merely of sand-beaches and sand- hills, for a distance of 9 or 10 miles. The low sandstone cliffs of Wolf island, which is about three-quarters of a mile long, interrupt the continuance of the sandy shore for only half a mile ; the sand-beaches then i-ecommence, and continue, with high sand-hills, occasionally, 9 or 10 miles farther to the North cape. In all this part the sand-bars may be safely approached by the lead as near as 10 or 9 fathoms depth of water. ., ,.,.,., ,,,,-,..,_, The WOBTH OAVB of the Magdalen islands is the northern point of Grosse isle, and a precipice of considerable height, but not so high as the west point of the same island, which is in the Great lagoon, and 300 feet above the sea. The north coast of the Magdalen islands continues from the North cape, in a curved line of sand-beaches and sand-hills, for about 6 miles, which distance again brings us to the East point, noticed in page 57, and completes the description of the islands. WOBTB CAPa WLOCKM, some of which always show, lie to the westward of North cape, the outermost being 6 cables' lengths off shore. The west end of these rocks bears N.N.W. from the high south-west side of Grosse isle, and their extent to the eastward is marked by the north* east sides of the North and North-east capes in one. Therefore, ill running down from the westward to anchor under the North cape, do not come nearer the shore than one mile until the above-named marks are open. ,$fymtHviiA t}<-'itt'a i'i^— 1 ,.j rsj OHAP. IV.] MAGDALEN islands; NORTH COAST. 67 '. Water may be had in small quantities near the houses on the east side of the North Cape, but there are no good watering-places excepting thoae already mentioned. ;yj j,Ti*«i '5«-rt'I 5if''i,; i.yii/.f/ itrf^ ;j--,'/,''/'« ,!t^v!^li>i "wfj'j^ " AHOKomAiOa. — ^In the above anchorage, namely, to the eastward of the North Cape, vessels may ride in 8 or 9 fathoms, over sandy bottom, with all southerly winds, and will find good holding ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh. BSUiOTZOirs. — Although a general description of the appearance of the Magdalen islands has been given in page 55, yet, as vessels passing to the southward of them have been directed to endeavour to make Entry island, it moiy be useful to add, that that island, when first made from the eastr ward, will appear like a double-peaked hill, sloping somewhat abruptly down to perpendicular and high clifis on either side. The south-west point of Amherst island is also a steep clifi^, but of less height, and as there is no land to the southward and westward of it, it cannot be mis- taken. The land rises from it in undulations to the higher parts of the island. Should the weather be foggy, the soundings will safely guide vessels passing to the south-eastward of the islands. .; r..,, . , ^' .,„•.: , .i^ The general soundings around the Magdalen islands, which extend off them so many miles in every direction, will afford an invaluable assist- ance to vessels at night or in foggy weather, and will be better understood from the Admiralty charts than by any written directions. .1 . .. . • TiBsa. — At Amherst harbour it is high water, full and change, at 8h. 20m, ; ordinary springs rise 3 feet, and neaps 2 feet. The tidal streams or currents around the Magdalen islands are so irregular, that the most experient and intelligent pilots for the islands^ who are also fishermen, and have passed their lives in fishing craft around them, can give no certain account of their rate and direction, but all agree in stating that they vary in both respects, either from the effects of winds, or other and unknown causes. Nevertheless, the following observations will hold good as a general rule, and although subject to occasional interruption, the set of the tidal streams about to be described will be found to recur with considerable constancy in fine weather. ^. < „ A few miles outside of Bryon island and the Bird rocks, there appears to be usually a current setting to the south-eastward, out of the Gulf ; but the stream of fiood tide flows between them and the Magdalen islands. The stream of flood comes from the south-east, and is divided by the East point of the Magdalen islands. One branch of the stream sets strongly over the Long-spit, which, with the Old Harry Head and the shoals off it, turn it off to the south-westward towards Entry island,. 68 ISLANDS IN OULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. it. leaving nearly slack water in the bay between Coffin island and Cape Alright, and also in Pleasant bay. The other branch, to the northward of the islands, follows the shore from East point round to the South-west cape of Amherst island, whence the greater part of the stream continues its course to the south-west ; whilst the remainder, following the shore, runs round and along the southern coast of Amherst island, until it meets the before mentioned other branch of the stream from the East point, setting off the east side of Entry island. It is overcome by this other branch, and turned gradually round to join the general weak stream of flood to the westward in the offing. On the south-east nide of the islahds, the stream of the ebb tide sets strongly out of the lagoons and out of Pleasant bay, between the Sandy- hook and Entry island. It is also often found running to the westward along the southern shores of Amherst island, and right round it in like manner, but contrary in direction, to the course of the flood already described. In the offing, at the same time, the stream of ebb is from the south-west, and sets over the Long-spit off the East point, where it meets the stream from the north-west, which has followed the north shore of the islands, round from Amherst island to the East point. The meeting of these two streams of the ebb tide, together with the shoal ness of the water, causes so heavy a breaking sea in strong easterly winds, that the fishing shallops dare not venture at times to pass the point. The rate of either stream seldom amounts to a knot, excepting close in shore, or round the points. The ebb, however, is generally the strongest stream, and its rate is increased by westerly winds, as is that of the flood by winds from the eastward. AVTXOOBTX xs&AWB. situated in the entrance of the north-west arm of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is 122 miles long in a N.W. ^ N. and S.E. ^ S. direction, 30 miles in extreme breadth, and about 270 miles in circumference, following the coast from point to point across the bays. Its shores are everywhere of rock, belonging to one great formation, namely, a very ancient secondary limestone, affording in some parts excell^'nt building stone, of which the two lighthouses have been constructed. On and near the coasts, the limestoqe is covered with a thick and often impenetrable forest of dwarf spruce, which, in some exposed situations, is only a few feet in height, with gnarled branches, so twisted and matted together, that a man may walk for a considerable distance on their summits. Extensive Lanks of limestone shingle, bush- swamps, morasses, and also beds of peat are of common occurrence.* • See Chart :— Golf of St. Lawrence, No. 2,516 ; Kale, d » 3'7 inchei. CHAT. IT.] ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 69 )le 3h. ABPBCT. — Anticosti is nowhere higher than 700 feet above the sea. Its south coast is low and shelving, with reefs of flat limestone which dry at low water. There is, however, a range of highlands in rear of the South-west point, and extending for some miles both to the north-westward and south-eastward of it. The north coast, for 70 op 80 miles to the westward of the East cape, is bold, precipitous, and of considerable elevation. Picturesque headlands, the eastern terminations of parallel ridges of table land, that rise gently with the strata from the south-west, end in magnificent cliffs of limestone, which are externally so nearly white from the effects of the v'^eather, as to resemble chalk. Some of these cliffs are upwards of 400 feet in perpendiculai' height. The remainder of the north coast is low, with reefs of flat limestone, like the southern shores. It is unusual to find an island so largo as Anticosti without a good harbour. Limestone coasts are in general characterised by deep inlets and bays, peninsulated points, and detached islets and rocks, but nothing of the kind will be found here, and there is not a single detached shoal off any part of the coasts. The coasts of this island have been generally believed to be extremely dangerous. The reefs of flat limestone, extending in some parts to I^ miles from the shore, the want of anchorage off most parts of the coast, and above all the frequent fogs, justify this belief in part, but not in so great a degree, as to render reasonable the dread with which they seem to have been occasionally regarded, and which can only have arisen from the natural tendency to magnify dangers of which Ave have no precise knowledge. PRODUCTloxrs. — The interior of Anticosti is probably less sterile, for- white spruce spars have been seen largo enough for the masts of a schooner of 60 tons, and others of juniper (a species of larch), of excellent quality,., and of suflicient size to form the keel of a vessel of the same dimensions. Black and white birch, and ash, the latter of bad quality, complete the list of trees which attain to any size upon the island. These, indeed, are not indicative of a very good soil anywhere, but when they attain to large dimensions, some soil at least will be found. Land birds appear to be very scarce, probably because there are few wild fruits for their support, the cloud berry, on the peaty morasses, being the only one that was observed in any plenty. Even the common Canadian partridge, or wood grouse, to be found almost anywhere else, is said not to exist upon this island. In winter, however, the white partridge, probably ptarmigan or willow grouse, is seen in the interior. There are as few varieties of quadrupeds as of the feathered tribes. The squirrel and Canadian hare, without which there is rarely seen an island of anj size in the Canadas, were never seen during the survey, and are reported) not to exist here. According to the report of M. Gamache, who baa ' , "I I- [;>:{ 70 ISLANDS IN QVLV OF ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAF. XT. resided and hunted here for many years, there are only 4 or 5 species of quadrupeds upon the island, namely, the black bear, fox, otter, martin, and a few mice. It is also said that there are neither snakes, toads, nor frogs, and that rats, which have occasionally landed from wrecks, have soon disappeared. ' V ... , . • r, ... . .-. .. , .- . .. .; The o&ncATa of Anticosti, from its proximity to an open sea, is probably not more severe in winter than that of Quebec, although farther to the north, but the summers are cold, wet, and stormy, with frequent fogs. Frosts are common in August, and in some severe seasons they occur in every month of the year. It is probable that no other grain but barley would ripen here, unless it might be oats occasionally in sheltered tiitaations. Potatoes are frequently prevented by early frosts from coming to perfection, although planted in the most favourable situations. It appears, therefore, that not much can ever be expected from the products of the soil, but the forests, the rivers, the reefs, and the sur- rounding sea, contribute in affording a profitable return to the industry of the few pex'sons who reside upon, or frequent the island. .....> mivasB. — Streams of excellent water descend to the sea on every part of the coasts of Anticosti. They are generally too small to admit boats, becominer rapid immediately within their entrances, and even the largest of them. Observation river, to the westward of the South-west point of the island, is barred with sand, excepting for short intervals of time after the spring freshets or heavy rains. -^ ana VSVOKTS. — Many of the above streams abound with trout, and are visited periodically by great numbers of salmon, which are taken by the 2 or 3 resident families, and salted for the Quebec market. Seals frequent the flat limestone reefs, and are killed annually in great numbers for their skins and oil. '^ Codfish are taken occasionally off several parts of the coast in small schooners from the Magdalen islands, and other parts of the Gulf. Their crews often join the occupation of wrecker to that of fishermen. The black bears are very numerous, and may frequently be seen wandering along the shores. Their skins, together with a few of the other animals nameH, salted salmon, seal skins, and seal oil, are the only exports, and are taken to Quebec, together with occasional cargoes of goods and people saved from wrecks in M. Gamache's schooner, the only vessel belonging to the island. Wild geese, outards, and ducks of various species ftre abundant, and breed upon the island. I &MUITB. — Three lighthouses are erected on Anticosti, one on Heath JH>int, at the east end of the island ; another on South-west point ; and the tbird on West point. ( "fhe lighthouse on the extremity t)f South-west yoint is built of <;|HAF-. IV.] ANTICOSTI ISLAND; LIGHTS. i«i n 9 beautiful grayish-white encrinital limestone, quarried on the spot. The tower, which is 75 feet high and of the usual conical form, ex- hibits a white light, which revolves every minute, and is visible from N.N.W., round west and south, to S.E. by E. The light is elevated ZOO feet above the level of high water, and with the eye 10 feet above the sea, it can be seen from a distance of 15 miles ; with the eye 50 feet, it can be seen about 19-^ miles; and with the eye elevated 100 feet, it will be visible about 23 miles, in the average state of the refraction. Hence, by ascending the rigging till the light just shows above the horizon, and then measuring the height of the eye above the sea, a very near estimate of the vessel's distance at night may be obtained. The lighthouse on the southern extremity of Heath point is of the same form and colour as the above, is 90 feet high, and also built of the island limestone. It shows at an elevation of 110 feet above the level of high water a ^xed white light, which in clear weather should be visible from a distance of 15 miles. The third lighthouse, erected on the West point of Anticosti, is a cir- cular stone tower, faced with white fire brick, and 109 feet in height. It exhibits at 112 feet above high water a Jixed white light, visible from a distance of 15 miles. It is lighted from the 1st of April to the 15th of December of each year. «.' • VSOVX8IOV POSTS. — The people in charge of the lighthouses and provision-posts, and one man at Fox bay, are the only resident inhabitants of Anticosti. The provision posts have been established by the govern- ment and legislature of Lower Canada, for the relief of the crews of vessels wrecked upon the island. Vessels are more frequently lost here in the bad weather nt the close of the navigable season than at any other times, and their crows would perish from want and the rigours of a Canadian winter, if it were not for this humane provision. The first of these posts is at Ellis bay, the second at the lighthouse at the South-west point, the third at Shallop creek (sometimes called Jupiter river), and the fourth at the lighthouse on Heath point.* ; , > * There are direction boards erected on the shore, or nailed to trees fVom which the branches have been cut off, near the beach, and on varioos parts of the coast. These boards are intended to point out to shipwrecked persons the way to the provision posts, and were placed (as Captain Bayfield found, ftom Mr. Lambly's remark-book, for he had not seen them all), on the following parts of the shore : — On the West point ; at 12 miles south-eastward of Ellis bay ; at 30 miles westward of Shallop creek ; and at. 2 1 miles eastward of Shallop creek. And tb-^re were formerly others on Heath point uad the South-west point, which the lighthouses havie rendered unnecessary. .-*- 72 ISLANDS IN GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE. [crap. xt« The BAST CAVa of Anticosti is a perpendicular cliff of limestone, rising to the height of 100 feet above the sea. The ridge, of which it i» the south-eastern termination, trends to the westward inland, and the extremity of the very low land to the southward of it is Heath point, on which is the lighthouse, bearing from the East cape S.W. ^ S. 3^ miles. Between the two points is Wreck bay which is dangerous, and afibrds no anchorage. A reef extends rather more than one-third of a mile to the south-east from East cape.* 90XKT is of limestone, about 10 feet high, with a superstratum of peat, in which there are several ponds of dark bog water. Being so low, this point disappears below the horizon at the distance of a few miles; the lighthouse then appears like a sail off the island, and is extremely useful in marking the extent of the low land to vessels, either from the eastward or westward, as well as in showing its position from the south- ward, from which direction it cannot be made out at night, being hidden by the high land behind, or to the northward. KBATB ponrr SBar. — The most dangerous reef off this end of Anticosti runs out E.S.E., nearly 2 miles from Heath point, at which distance there are 5 fathoms water. Within that distance the reef is composed of large square blocks of limestone, with irregular soundings, varying from 2 to 5 fathoms. The rocky and irregular soundings froift 5 to 7 fathoms extend nearly 3 miles off Heath point, so that vessels should not approach nearer, with the point bearing between N.W. by N. and W. by N. With the East cape bearing N. by W. a vessel will pass just outside of the shallow and irregular soundings in about 20 fathoms water. AirCBOKAOB. — Off Heath point, to the southward and westward, the shoal water does not extend beyond three-quarters of a mile, and farther off on that side there is one of the best open anchorages on the island. The best berth is in 10 fathoms, over a bottom of sand and mud, with the lighthouse bearing E. by N., and Cormorant point nothing to the westward of W.N.W. The vessel will then be 2 miles off shore, and will be shel- tered from all winds from W.N.W., round by north, to E. by N. COSMOXAVT POXWT bears from Heath point W. by N. ^ N., 6 miles ; and the South point of Anticosti bears W.N.W. 16^ miles from Cormorant point. In this distance the coast is low and undulating, with pointf^ of low limestone cliffs, and beaches of sand and shingle in the bays, inclosing large ponds or lagoons, into many of which the tide flows, and also small * See Flan of Anticosti Island, £aat Cape and Bear bay, No. I,lfi0; tealeir « s= O'Sofaninch. OBAF. IT.] ANTICOSTI ISLAND ; EAST CAPE ; SOUTH POINT. 73 streams from the interior of the island. This part of the coast may safelj be approached by the lead, for the reefs nowhere extend farther off than three-quarters of a mile till we come to the South point. >, r '• ^ * ■OUTB vonrr is a cliff of sandy clay, resting upon limestone. It does not exceed 60 feet in height, and there is nothing remarkable in its shape ; but there is no other clay cliff near it, and as it is an extreme point, there will be little difficulty in distinguishing it by the trending of the land. Moreover, an open lozenge-shaped beacon, formed by battens on a mast 40 feet high, has recently been placed on it.* A reef runs out nearly 1^ miles to the southward from South point, and the sea usually breaks upon it. The light on Heath point and Cor- morant point in one, bearing E. by S., leads 2 miles to the southward of the reef, but the light will seldom be seen up to the reef, which is distant 22 miles from it. The leading mark will nevertheless be of use to vessels between South point and Cormorant point. ASPBCT of COAST. — From South point to the lighthouse on the South-west point, a distance of 56 miles, there is such a sameness in the character of the coast, that it is very difficult to make out one pai't from another. The houses, however of Mr. Hamelle, in charge of the pro- vision post at Shallop creek, will be seen 13 miles north-westward of the South point, and at the first limestone cliff to the north-westward of those houses is Pavilion river, 24 miles from South point, where there is a beacon similar to the one on the South point, excepting that there is a batten placed horizontally above the lozenge. In this distance the coast is very low, but it begins to rise at Pavilion river, there being a high ridge close in rear of the coast all the way to the South-west point, and beyond it for some miles. Another beacon, similar to the one at Pavilion river, only that the batten is below instead of above the lozenge^ will be seen 4 miles S.S.E. from Salt Lake bay. 8A&T XAKll BAT, distant 11 miles south-eastward of South-west point, has fine sandy beaches, enclosing lagoons or ponds, into which, the tide flows. Off the centre of this bay, and with its north-west point bearing N. by E. ^ E., distant 1| miles, there is very indifferent an- chorage, in 7 fathoms, over sandy bottom. Vessels should be careful not to anchor farth'er to the southward and eastward, since there is some foul and rocky ground about a mile in that direction from the position which, has just been recommended. There are 7 fathoms rocky bottom marked in the chart on the spot alluded to, and there is probably less water * 5e«Foutioni of Buoy sand Beacons, page 3 15. 74 ISLANDS IN GULF OF ST. LAWBENCE. [OHAP. IT. between it and the south-eastern point of the baj, so that no one should attempt to pass between it and the shore.* .'-!• \ ' .;:'i'.'.i:. . I'j-o jvi OAUTiow. — In approaching the coast between the South and South- west points of Anticosti, the soundings, extending 7 miles off shore to the depth of 60 fathoms, will afford some warning as far westward as Pavilion river. In the remaining distance of 32 miles to the South-wost point, the reefs do not extend beyond a mile from the shore, but they are very steep, so that there is little warning by the lead. This boldest part of the south coast of the island should therefore be approached very cautiously at night or in foggy weather. When far enough to the west- ward to see i;he revolving light on the South-west point, care should be taken not to bring it to bear in the least to the westwaru of N.N.W., as directed in page 35. • . Tbe SOVTH-V JlST VOIWT of Anticosti is a low projecting mound of limestone, having a small cove on its north side, which forms it into a peninsula. The land rises gradually, in the rear of this, to the summit of the ridge already mentioned. Oix the south side of the point there is a beach of limestone gravel on which boats may land, as well as in the cove on the north side, when the wind is off shore and the sea smcoth. On the north side of the point, and for several miles along the coast to Observation river, the cliffs are perpendicular and washed by the sea. The lighthouse (page 70) stands on the western extremity of the point, and forms a conspicuous land-mark. A reef extends out from the ■point, to the West and S.W., not more than half a mile ; and 2 miles off, in the same direction, there are 30 fathoms, over rocky bottom, deepening rapidly to 65 fathoms, with sand and shells, at the distance of 3 miles. At the distance of 6 miles, to the southward and westward of the point, the depth is about 1 10 fathoms, with mud bottom, and incre^nes to 200 t ithoms nearly midway towards the south coast. Vessels may anchor in the bay on the north side of the point, in 12 or 13 fathoms, over a bottom of sand, gravel, and broken shells, with the extremity of the point becring S.S.W. -J W., distant three-quarters of a mile, when the cliffs tothe eastward will be at the same distance. The shelter is irom N. by E., round easterly, to S. by W., and small vessels may lie closer under the point, but it is a dangerous state to be caught in by westerly winds, which are preceded by a heavy swell. The ground is not to be trusted, and no vessel can be recommended to anchor here unless in case of necessity. ' "' ' '" '^ "'""''' ''""^ * See Flan of Anticosti Island, S.W. Point and Salt Lake Bay, No. 1,147; scale, m IB 0*5 of an inch : and Chart of the Gulf of St Lawrence, Sheet 4, No. 306 ; scale, m « 0*25 of an inch.' CHAP. IT.] ANT1C08TI tSLikNb; SOUTH-WEST POINT; £LLIS BAY. fS There is no anchorage from South-west point to Ellis bay, but as directions have been already given respecting this part of the western coast in page 35, little remains to be noticed. The reefs of flat limestone extend from it, in most parts fully a mile, and often have 10 or 12 fathoms of water close outside of them ; but vessels with the lead going may safely stand in as near as 2 miles, or, which will be safer than an estimated distance, had better tack in 17 fathoms. OBsasvATiOW mivas, 5^ miles northward of the South-west point of Anticosti, is the largest stream on the island, having 5 or 6 feet water in its entrance, after the melting of the snows in the spring of the year, but soon becomes barred with sand Ity the S.W. gales. It becomes shoal and rapid immediately within, though it has a course from the eastward of many leagues. Its source does not appear to be known to the people of the island. Immediately to the northward of this river there ai'e conspicuous and high sandy cliffs. ° ST. MAST OKzrrs, 21 miles from South-west point, are also of sand, less high, and less remarkable, but yet not difficult to distinguish ; a wooden beacon of the form of a cross has been erected on them (page 321). • BBOSCXB SXVBB, at 7 miles north-westward of the St. Mary cliffs, and 12 miles south-eastward of Ellis bay, is a very small stream at the head of a cosre affording shelter to boats, and where there is a hut at which a hunter and fisherman occasionally resides. ., , ;,. lAT affords the only tolerably sheltered anchorage in Anticosti. Vessels, if their draught is not too great for a depth of 3 fathoms, may safely lie there during the three finest months of summer, namely June, July, and August, but they should moor with an open hawse to the south- ward. If of larger draught, and only wishing to remain for a few hours, they may anchor farther out, in 3-J and 4 fathoms, but neither the ground nor the shelter will be found so good as farther up the bay.* The best berth in Ellis bay is in a line between Cape Henry and the White cliff, bearing W. by S. J S., and E. by N. ^ N., respectively from each other; Gamache house, N. by E. ^ E., and Cape Eagle, between S.S.E. ^ E., and S.S.E. The vessel will then be in 3 fathoms, over muddy bottom, distant about 3 cables from the fiats on either side, and about half a mile from those at the head of the bay. The extremities of the reefs, off Capes Henry and Eagle, will bear S.W. J S. and S. J E^ respectively, thus leaving 3^ points of the compass open, but in a direc- '.JSv u:^ x:;:. • See Plan of EUi« Bay, No. 308 ; scal«, w = inshei. "^""^^ v«.i5jm»i !•' ' ^\ 76 ISLANDS IN GULF OF ST. LAWP.ENCB. [CIUF. IT. «BAr. tion from wltich heavy windti are of very rare occurrence, and never lost long. Moreover, when they do occur, the hcu is much less at the anchorage than might be expected, although very heavy in the entrance between the reefa. These reofn are of flat limcstome, and dry at low water ; and as the tides only rise from 4 to 7 feet, the sea always breaks upon them when there is the least swell. The reef off Cape Henry runs out nearly a mile to the southward, nnd that off Cape Eagle nearly three-quarters of a mile to the westword. The entrance between them is 6 cables wide, from the depth of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms. Extensive flats proceed from these reefs quite round the bay, and do not enjjirely dry at low water, excepting in very low spring tides, but there are immense boulder stones upon them which always show. ' These flats occasion the landing to be very bad, excepting at high water, which is the only time that supplies of good water can be obtained from Gamache river. BimaoTZOWS. — Ellis bay can be easily made out from sea, for Cape Henry is a bluff point, and the land being very low at the head of the bay, occasions the opening t' how distinctly. On a nearer approach, Cape Eagle and White cliff on the east side, and the houses near the head of the bay, will be easily recognized, whilst two ridges or hills will be seen far back in the country, and to the northward and eastward. The long line of breakers on either side, and the numerous large stones so far from the shore a-head, will present anything but an agreeable appearance to those who may approach this bay for the first time, but there will be no danger if the following directions be attended to. In approaching Ellis bay from the westward, with westerly winds, run down along the outside of the reefs off Cape Henry by the lead, and in 10 fathoms water, until the west side of White cliff is in line with the east side of the westernmost of two hills fur back in the country, and bearing N.E. ^ N. ; then haul up with these marks on, and they will lead into smooth water close under Cape Henry reef, in 3J fathoms. Continue running in with these marks on till Gamache house .bears N. by E. ^ E., then haul up for it, and anchor in the line between Cape Henry and White diff, as previously recommended. The lead should be kept going, and the reefs on either side should not be approached nearer than 3 fathoms in any part until the vessel arrives at the anchorage. In running for the bay from the south-eastward, with an easterly wind, come no nearer to the west point of Cape Eagle reef than the depth of 7 fathoms, until the east side of White cliff comes in line with the east side of the same hill as before ; then haul up with this mark on, until the houses bear N. by E., and proceed as above directed. Take notice that OBir. IT.] ANTICOSTI ISLAND ; NORTH COAST. 11 the west sido of White cliff ia used for the leading mark in westerly winds, and the east side in uautorly ivinda, the intention being to keep the vcssol in either catio from going too near the Ice side of the channel. Tinas. — It is high water, full and change, in Ellis bay, at Ih. 45m. ; ordinary springs rise 7 feet, and neaps 4 feet. lOT of COAST. — On the outside of Cape Henry, and continuing to the West point of Anticosti, reefs extend 1^ miles from the shore, and vessels approaching it should keep the lead going, and attend to the soundings in the charts. The West point is low and wooded, with reefs which do not extend beyond a mile from the shore, and vessels may pass it in 15 fathoms water at the ince of 1| miles. A circular stone lighthouse, faced with white yrick, 109 feel high, stands on this point (page 71). The north coast of Anticosti, between the West and North points, is low, with reefs of flat limestone, extending one mile from the shore. There are soundings, in moderate depths, for more than a mile out from the reefs. Vessels should not go nearer than 25 fathoms. In the rear of the coast, and about halfway between the West and North points, are the two hills or ridges, mentioned as forming one of the leading marks for Ellis bay. North point is wooded, of very moderate height, and without any cliff. It is so little remarkable as to bo only distinguished by the change which takes place at it in the direction of the coast. High Cliff point, distant 13 miles from North point, is easily recognized, being the only cliff on the island that has a talm in front of it, or that has not its base washed by the sea at high water. From High Cliff point to West cliff, a distance of 26 miles, the coast is low in front, with ridges of considerable elevation a few miles back in the country. This is the most dangerous part of the north const, for the reefs extend nearly two miles out from high water mark, bcginLing at some low cliffs 7 miles eastward of High Cliff point, and contiikue to do so for 4 or 5 miles to the south-eastward, after which they gradually diminish in breadth, till at West cliff they are not more than half a mile from the shore. There is more or less warning by the deep sea lead all along this part of the coast until we approach West cliff, off which there are 70 fathoms at the distance of 1^ miles from the surf. . West cliff is very remarkable, for there is no other high cliff near it. It appears like a white patch on the laud, and can be seen from a distance \ . I ,1 •'. i m 78 ISLANDS IN GULP OP ST. LAWRBNOE. fCHAF. IT. of 6 or 7 leagaes. Low cliffa commonco 4 miles Houth^oost -. f*. of ^e^t cliff*, and continue to Carleton i)oint, under which vesMlii mi^; anchor in fine weather and westerly winds, and obtain wood and water. Ten mili)ii further to the Houth-eastward in Capo Observation, a bold, high, and remarkable headland. On its west Hide there is a magnificent range of grayish white cliffs several hundred feet high. At the extremity of the Cape, these cliffs become suddenly much lower, and then ris^ again to their former elevation for a short distance on the cast side. As this is well described in the chart, the Capo will bo easily recognised. Vessels may anchor under it with westerly winds and fine weather, and obtain supplies of wood and water very conveniently. Twelve and a half miles farther south-eastward, along a bold coast with high grayish white cliffs and small bays between, is Bear Head, also of grayish white cliffs, 400 feet high, and resembling in some degree Cape Observation. This last- named cliff' has no equally high cliffy headlands to the westward of it, whilst Bear Head has, a difference which will prevent the one from being mistaken for the other. From the West cliff" to Bear Head the coast is extremely bold, there being in most parts a depth of 100 fathoms within 3 miles of the shore. r, situated between Bear Head and Cape Robert, which are distant nearly 6 miles from each other in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, is by far the best roadstead on the north coast of Anticosti, and, indeed, the only one in which a vessel of large draught would like to anchor, unless she had some particular object in view. It is sufficiently roomy, the bottom is excellent for holding, the depth of watef moderate, and the shelter extends from N.N.W., round by west and souths to S.E. by S. ' In order to recognise this anchorage, it may be observed that Capo Robert consists of cliff's of the same rclour and elevation as those of Bear Head ; and that there are two other points of cliff's 300 feet high, within the bay, the south-easternmost of which is named Tower point. The best anchorage is between Tower point and Cape Robert, at a distance of one mile from the former, as well as from the western shore, and in 13 fathoms water over a bottom of brown mud, with Tower point bearing N.W. ^ W., Cape Robert S.E. ^ S., and Bear Head N. by W. ^ W* Bear bay is divided into three smaller bays by the two high points of 0118" already mentioned. In each of these bays there are fine bold beaches of sand and limestone shingle, and streams where water may be easily obtained. But the principal stream is Bear river, which enters tfi© i»C.j* y =»»^.v-- ** * See Flan of Bear Bay, No. 1,150 1 leale^ m - 1 ineh. CHA». IT.] ANTIC08TI island; NORTH COAST. 79 HOUthernmoHt of the three bay«, clotie to the iiouth*CRst Hide of Tower point. It 18 too nhallow and rapid to admit bontH, but the water it clear and good. The clifitt in Bear buy uro magnificent : they are of grayWs white limeHtonc, in thin Htrata dipping very Hlightly to the southward, and are perpendicular or overhanging. At the cxtroniitiort of the jwintH the cliffu are rounded by the action of the wavoH and atmosphere ho m t6 reHemble towers, which reHemblanco iu rendered stronger by the mnHonry^ like appearance of the rock. The trees are of diminutive growth. i "^ • TAB&a mmjLXk. — From Capo Robert to Table Head, a distance of 19 miles to the south-eastward, the coast is broken into small bays, with shingle beach and small streams between high headlandn, terminating in perpendicular cliffs, the bases of which are washed by the seo. None of these bays afford good anchorage. Table Head is rendered remarkable by the hill from whence it derives its name, and which rises immediately from the summit of the cliffs. Fox point is 4 miles farther to the south- eastward, and much lower than Table Head. roz BAT, situated a little less than 2 miles to the southward of Fox point, is about a mile wide, and deep, with a sandy beach at its head, where there is a considerable stream issuing from a small lake. Boat» may enter the outlet of this lake at high water. The house and store, which at the time of the Admiralty survey were on the north-west side of the head of the bay, were the scenes of the dreadful sufferings and melancholy fate of the crew and passengers of the ship Granicus, wrecked on this coast in November 1828, and who all perished from want of food, after enduring the most horrible misery, before the following spring. Reef point, of very low limestone, is the southern point of Fox boy, from which a reef of flat limestone, covered with only a few feet water,, runs out to the distance of fully \^ miles. There is a depth of 10 fathoms close off the end of this reef, so that it is extremely dangerous. To be sure of clearing it to the north-eastward a vessel should not stand nearer by the lead than 18 or 17 fathoms ; or if any of the land to the north-westward of Table Head be open clear of it, she will pass in safety. From the northern point of Fox bay, which is a cliff of moderate height, another reef runs out more than )iuif a mile to the south-eastward. A point of the southern reef, before mentioned, extends to the northward in such a way as to overlap the reef off the northern point, leaving aa entrance into the bay from the north-eastward between the two reefs, only a quarter of a mile wide, and 13 feet in it at low water. Inside^ there is a space half a mile wide, from the depth of 2 fathoms to 2 fathoms, and with 16 feet in the middle over muddy bottom. A wind fronpt J1- ^w 80 ISLANDS IN GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. [chat. XT. E. by X., or E.N.E., blows right into tho bay ; but it is said that the sea does not roll in, but in heavy weather breaks on the reefs and in the entrance. This account we believe to be correct, and that small vessels would be quite safe there during the summer months. Between Fox bay and East Cape the coast is of limestone cliffs 100 £e6t in height, bold and free from danger. Between Cape Sand-Top and East Cape vessels may anchor with all westerly winds, in from 16 to 20 fathoms, over fine sand, at a distance of one mile from the shore. Tisas and omumrs. — ^It is high water, full and change, at the East Cape at Ih. Om. ; ordinary springs rise 5 feet, and neaps 3 feet. The tides and currents around Anticosti are so irregular, that very little can be added to that -which has been already stated in pages 22 and 29. , ': .'-'^;; -iyi- ;i^.;'^,ii The stream has run along the land for a whole day at the rate of a knot an hour, in either direction, without any apparent cause, and altogether regardless of the change of tide. At other times the tides have been found regular in shore. Under these circumstances it is evident that the set of the stream, at any time or place, cannot be reckoned upon with certain iy. Usually, however, there is very little stream in any direction on the rorth coast from West cliff south-eastward to Table Head. From the latter to East cape, on the contrary, there is frequently a stream from the northward, running at a rate varying from a half to one knot. In one or two instances this stream haj been seen to commence and end with the flood tide, so that there was reai: n to imagine a connexion between them ; and, if this be the ca?,e, it may arise from the circumstance of its being high water sooner on the north coast, up as high as the Esquimaux islands, than at the East point of Anticosti. The waters having, thus attained a higher level to the northward may, in consequence, flow to the southward. On the other hand it must be mentioned that this Btream was observed at times during the ebb tide. ' r. < .. » It frequently happens that, when this current from the northward is Tunning, another from, the W.N.W. comes along the south coast, in which case they meet at the reef off Heath point, and cause a great ripple or irregular breaking sea. When this has been observed, there has been usually a fresh breeze along the land on either side of the island ; the wind on the north side of the island being from the North or N. by E., whilst that along the south side was W.N.W. Both 'these winds were observed blowing a smart double-reefed topsail breeze at the same time, and for a whole day together, and yet never meet round the east end of the island, which is nowhere more than 200 feet in height. Between the two winds there was a triangular space of calm and light baffling airs : the baae of this triangle extended from Heath point to East cape, and its OBAT. IT.] ANTIC08TI ISLAND; TmES AND CUERENTS. ^ apex fi'om 5 to 8 miles to the eastward of the island. This circumstance is mentioned, because it would be dangerous for a vessel to stand into the calm space between the two winds, where the high cross sea and con- stantly changing light airs might leave lier at the mercy of the current, in no small danger of being set on the Heath point reef. 3^^A-,J.4 •«>»„: —iPk- ,,«),/,.■■■; /;•.(,..«.. f iisAi >4M :r ^fh*' ii!?i?i' [8T, L.]— TOt. I. - ■■'-: ■kw'r,y;^ ' -■:■ w-.' •,,,'fiit{i ■ ' I ^U'O^: '} ■' 'friJ':- : - ' ' ■ -:-:;':,?■."■-!■ ^ ,/; ■J ■ - -",.- ■ : .^?:a.>> '-' ■ .'ir'^ ■■■;>>:;..•.' ; „ f«»; ,, -.,^ ,.:..... ^ -' 't ■ ■ ■ 1 .-.< .* ... _ - '! ■■ , i."> , -• t ' t - > * ■ < •J..iv iS'i^^.» 82 r:T ^^■•.,>>f^ vy », >;ji.{:> CHAPTER V. SOUTH COAST OF THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE -CAFB DESPAIR TO GREEN ISLAND. Vabiation, 25i° to 19° West in 1860. Pursuing the system hitherto followed, of describing the coast from eaat to west, in the order in which it would be seen by a stranger on a voyage to Canada, we shall commence by describing the south coast of the Gulf and Estuary from the high land of Gasp^ ; beginning with Cape Despair, at the entrance of Chaleur bay, and leaving all to the southward of a lino from thence to the island of St. Paul for a separate part of this book ; not only for the sake of a more distinct geographical arrangement and facility of reference, but also because the southern parts of the Gulf are obviously connected with another line of navigation. In the last Chapter full descriptions were given of the appearance and nature of the coasts, because the information which was conveyed was often new, and because it was necessary to describe clearly those objects which were to be referre 1 to as natural beacons for guiding the mariner clear of the numerous dangers with which those coasts and islands abound. But in this Clapter we shall more freely refer him to the charts for the appearance of the coast so as to avoid swelling these remarks to an inconvenient size. Besides which, the dangers are few and for the most part of small importance. CA»B BBavAZS, tho north-east point of Chaleur bay, consists of red sandstone cliffs, without beach, and of a moderate height above the sea.* B ■KOAX. lying S.S.E. distant rather more than 1^ miles from Cape Despair, is about a quarter of a mile in diameter, from a depth of 4 fathoms to 4 fathoms, and has 16 feet least water on one spot, which, however, it is very difficult to find. It is a rocky shoal, and there * See Flan of Gaspc and Mai Bayn, and Gaspe Harbour and Basin, No. 1,163 ; I mail's inches. OBAT. ▼.} CAPE DESPAIR. — PERCi BAY. 90 is a clear passage between it and the cape. White Head in line with the inner or north-v^est end of Perce rock, passes just outside of the shoal, in 7 fathoms , therefore the whole of Perce rock, well open to the eastward of the TVhite Head, will lead clear outside of all. From, a half to the whole of the Perc6 rock, shut in behind the White Head, will lead clear between the shoal and Cape Despair. aowAvaimnuB zs&ahb has bold and perpendicular cliffs of red sandstone and conglomerate on all sides excepting the west. These cliffs, in some parts, attain an elevation of 250 feet above the sea, and their ledges and fissures are the habitation of innumerable gannets. From the west side, shoal water exf^ends to the distance of a quarter of a mile, and there is anchorage in 15 fathoms between it and White Head ; but the riding is insecure and heavy in consequence of the swell, which, in bad weather, rolls round the island. The channel between Bonaventure island and the Perce rock is about 1^ miles wide, and free from danger. tOB BAT. — The Perce rock is 288 feet high, precipitous all round, and bold to seaward. It is narrow, and about one-third of a mile long in a S.E. direction, being an outlier to the range of cliffs on the south-west side of Mai bay. It is rendered remarkable by two large holes* which have been perforated through it by the waves, and through one of which a boat can pass at high water. Between this rock and White Head is the bay of Perce, having a reef at the distance of half a mile to the south- west of the Perce rock, and extending out nearly half a mile from the shore. Small vessels engaged in the fisheries anchor on either sid^j of this reef, with winds off the land, but it is a dangerous place, and n&t to be recommer, led for large vessels. The town of Perce, principally inbabitt-l "y persons engaged in the fisheries, occupies the shores of the buy, tmd Mout Perce, or, as it is sometimes called, the Table Roulante, rises immediately from it, to the height of 1,230 feet above the sea. This mountain is very remarkable, and can be seen at sea from a distaucf. of 40 miles. reef connects the Perce rock with Perce point, and off the north-east side of the latter small vessels anchor with westerly winds. 4 TXBB8. — There is generally a regular tide of flood and ebb, of about a knot, between Bonaventure island and the mainland ; the flood tide running to the S.W. round Cape Despair and up to the bay of Chaleur ; and the ebb in the contrary direction. Two or three J:iiles outside, or to * In 1845 the roof of the outermost hole fell in. V 2 84 GULF AND BIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; SOUTH COAST. Icmr. r. the eastward of Bonavcnturo island, the current to the southward out of the St. Lawrence, will often be found running regardless of the tides (page 28). is between 5 and 6 miles wide, by 4 miles deep, and entirely open to the south-east. On its south-west side, and under the Perce mountains there are magnificent cliffs 666 feet in perpendicular height above the sea. Its north-east side has low cliffs of sandstone, with occa- sional beaches. A fine broad sandy beach extends across the head of tlie bay, and incloses a shallow lagocn. A considerable river, and several small streams, discharge their waters into the lagoon, which has an outlet in the north-west corner of the bay, called the Tickle, admitting loats at high water and in fine weather. Thei e is anchorage all round the shores of Mai bay, but as a heavy sea and thick fog often precede a south-east gale and render it difficult for a vessel to beat out, it cannot be recom- mended. An open cove or sii^all bay is formed on the north-east side, in which a vessel can be occasionally' moored close to the shore, and in 3 fathoms water, but this is of no use fV r the general purposes of navigation. OABPB BAT. — Peter point, the south point of Gaspe bay, is of low sandstone, and thickly covered with the white houses of the fishermen. Flat island, lying about 4 cables off the point, is small, low, and of sandstone. There is a clear channel between the island and the point, but no good anchorage ; for although --essels ocr isionally anchor to the northward of the island, yet the ground is sc fo j1 that there is great danger of losing an anchor from its hooking the rocks. From Flat island to Cape Gaspe, across the mouth of Gaspe bay, the course is N.N.E. and the distance 7^ miles. Gaspe bay possesses advantages which may hereafter render it one of the most important places, in a maritime point of view, in these seas. It contains an excellent outer roadstead off Douglas town ; a harbour at its head, capable of holding a numovous fleet in perfect safety; and a basin where the largest ships might bt hove down and refitted. The course up this bay from Flat island to the enu of Sandy-beach point, which forms the harl)our, is N. by W. ^ W. rather more than 16 miles. From the Flower-pot rock off Cape Guspe to the same point, the course is N.VV. ^ N,, and the distance nearly 11^ miles. Cape Gaspe is an extremely remarkable headland, of limestone, having on its uortli-east wide a magnificent range of clHfs, which rise from the sea to the height of 692 feet. The Flower-pot rock li<;s close off the south- east extremity of the Cape, and is no longer the remarkable object it wos att fore onl} roui OBAT. Y.] MAL AND GASP£ BATS. — SEAL BOCKS. 85 at the time of the survey of this bay, having since that time yielded to the force of the waves; but it is still always viHible, the sea washing over it only at high water. It is sometimes called the " Ship's Head," at others, iflie *' Old Woman," by the fishermen, and is so bold, that vessels may haul round it into Gaspe bay, within the distance of a quarter of a mile. Boats may pass between it and the Cape when there is no surf. The lime- stone of Cape Gasp4 dips to the south-west, so that the cliffs within the bay are very much lower than those on the outside of the Capo previously mentioned. At Grande Greve, 3^ miles within Cape Gaspe, the ridge of land dips and narrows, so that there it: a portage across it, leading to the settlements at Cape Rozier. On the north-west side of the portage a range of moun- tains commences, and they continue along the north-east side of Gaspe bay, and the North-west Arm, till they are lost to view in the interior of the country. Opposite to the basin of Gaspe, they rise to the height of 1,500 feet above the sea. The north-east side of Gaspe bay is thickly covered with the houses of the fishermen, for a distance of 5 miles within Cape Gaspe ; the principal fishing establishments belonging, as at Perce, to Jersey merchants. There is an anchorage with good holding ground, but in not less than 17 fathoms, except within a quarter of a mile of the shore, abreast of St. George cove, Grande Greve, and Little Gaspe. The word cove is, however, inappropriately applied to any part of the shore between Grande Greve and the Cape, for though there iire fishing establishments thei:o are no coves whatevci*. This side is bold, and free from danger in every part, with the exception of the Seal rocks, which are the only detached danger in the bay. SlDAK XOCKS are 6| miles within Cape Gaspe, one mile S.E. byS. from r^pc Brule, and half a mile off" shore. The length of this reef, from uie depth of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms, and in a direction parallel to the shore, is half a mile ; and its breadth a quarter of a mile. The least watei is 4 feet, and there are 3^ fathoms between it and the shore. When on the outer edge of the rocks, Capr Brule is in one with the next cliffy point up the bay, bearing N.W. by N., and this only mark is suffi- cient for the safety of vessels beating, for the rocks are out of the way with fair winds. The south-west shore of Gasp^ bay from Peter point to Douglas town, a distance of 12 miles, presents a succession of precipitous headlands, the cliffs of bituminous shale and sandstone rising to the height of 200 feet above the sea. About 5 miles inland the mountains attain an elevation of 1,500 feet, and after sweeping round the head of Mai bay terminate at Ferc6 mountain. 86 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; SOUTH COAST. [cn\p. t. 90V0&AB is a village of fiHhermen and farmers, standing on the rising ground at the south side of the entrance of the river St. John. The water is very deep in the outer parts of the bay, being from 30 to upwards of 60 fathoms, over mud bottom ; but on approaching Douglas the depth decreases regularly to the anchorage. Cape Haldimand, 2 miles northward of Douglas, is a bluff point of clifT, and the south-eastern termination of the range of hills which separates the harbour, basin, and South-west Arm, from the valley of the river St. John. ^vater may be obtained by ascending the river St. John to the islandi>, a distance of 2 miles. In the spring of the year there is often a depth of 9 feet in the entrance of this river, which is between two points of Band ; and there are 12 feet in the narrow channel for some distance within. At the islands the river becomes shallow and rapid. AxrcBOSAOB.— The roadstead off the town of Douglas is extensive ; vessels may anchor in any part of it, and in any depth from 1 1 to 6 fathoms, over sand md clay bottom ; but the best berth is in 7 fathomB, with the entrance of the river St. John bearing N.Vr. by W. 1^ milen. The course and distance from Cape Gasp«3 to this anchorage is N.W. by W., 7J miles. There is, however, no shelter from winds between S.E. by E. and S.S.E., which blow directly into the bay, and roll in a heavy swell. The riding is, nevertheless, much less heavy on such occasions than might be expected ; and, as the ground is excellent for holding, a vessel may safely anchor here during the summer months. When beating up the bay to this anchorage, observe that shoals extend one third of a mile out from the cliffs on the south-west side of the bay, and that they are too steep for the lead to afford sufficient warning. OASVa KAXBOUm. — From the north-east side of Cape Haldimand, Sandy-beach point runs out to the northward, and forms the harbour of Gasp6. It is a very low and narrow point of sand, convex to seaward, on which side the water deepens gradually from high-water mark to th(> depth of 3 fathoms, i dist,; ce of nearly half a mile ; on the inside it is a.- bold as a wall. Th»is this spit, apparently so fragile, becomes a natural dam or breakwater, lipon which the Loavy swell which often rolls into the bay can produce no effect, expending its strength in the shoal water before reaching the beach. The water deepens immediately outside of 3 fathoms, all along the outside of Sandy-heach point, and also off its north extremity; BO that it is both dangerous and difficult to beat in or out of the harbour at night ; the lead giving little oi* no warning. To the northward of Sandy-beach point, at the distance of nearly a mile, is the Peninsula, which is a low eand, covered with spruce trees, and CHAP. ▼.] GASPlfi BAY ; GASPlS HARBOUR- 87 it has several whale sheds near its west point. Between tho shoal water in the bay to the eastward of the Peninsula, and that which extends from the extremity of Sandy-beach point, is the narrowest part of tho entrance to the harbour, which is 4^ cables wide from the depth of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms, and carries a depth of upwards of 11 fathoms in the centre. BntacTlOlTB. — To run into the harbour of Gaspe attend to the fol- lowing directions and remarks. On the north-east side of the North-west Arm, there is a wooded point with low clay cliff, 2| miles above the Penin- sula. This point appears as if it wero the extreme on that side, when seen over the end of the Peninsula from a vessel approaching the entrance of the harbour, and is called Panard point. Now this point (seen over the Peninsula), in one with the inner or north side of the whale sheds before mentioned, is the mark for the northern extreme of the shoal off Sandy- beach point. The extremity of the spruce trees is as far within tho whale sheds as these last are from the sandy extremity of the Peninsula. On the inner side of Sandy-beach point, and near to its junction with the mainland, stands a wooden windmill. Keep Panard point in one with that extremity of the spruce trees on the Peninsula, bearing N.W., until the windmill, just mentioned, comes in one with the west or inner side of the end of Sandy -beach point, bearing S. | W., when the vessel may haul into the anchorage under the point, or steer for the basin, as may be desired. When beating in, tack by the lead from the north-east side of Gasp6 bay, and in the board towards Sandy-beach point, put the helm down the instant the marks for leading in, just given, come in one. At nifflit, wl^en neither Sandy-beach point, nor the Peninsula can be seen, it becomes rather a difficult affair to take a vessel into Gaspe harbour. The only guide thoii is the lead. There should be a hand in each chains, one heaving when the other cries the soundings. Soundings should be first struck on the north-east side of the bay, about 2 miles outside of the entrance of the harbour, and the edge of the shoal water on that side should be followed, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, until it is judged, by the dis- tance run, and the change which takes place in the direction of the edge of the bank which the vessel is running upon, that she is approaching the Peninsula and has passed Sandy-beach point, and can in consequence venture to haul to the southward into the anchorage. To form this judgment accurately, is the difficult part of the process, and as to fail in this would probably cause the loss of the vessel, if the usual heavy swell should be rolling into the bay with south-east winds, she should rather trust to her anchors off Douglas town than to make the attempt. In oaee of a vessel which has lost her anchors, the directions which have been given may prove of use. Within Sandy-beach point, that is in the . 88 GULF AND RITER OF ST. LAWRENCE; SOUTH COAST, taur.r. harbour of Gasp^, tho shelter is complete from all winds { the bottom is mud, and tho depth nowhero exceeds 11| fathoms. OASVB BAsnr. — Having given directions to enable tho seaman to take his vessel into a place of security in Gasp6 harbour, from which he may proceed to Gaspc basin, or to any other part of the harbour, with the assistance of the chart, or of a pilot, there is no occasion to swell these remarks by a minute description of the interior of tho harbour, which the chart renders unnecessary, and which is not in any way essential to safety. It will only be necessary to add that the harbour is divided into tho North-west and South-west Arms. Tho North-west Arm has deep water for nearly 3 miles above the Peninsula, and continues navigable for keeled boats about 3 miles farther, where the principal river of the harbour enters the arm between Marsh and Meadow islands. The entrance of the South-west Arm is about 180 fathoms wide, and between two sandy points, but the navigable channel i~ contracted by shoals on either side to about 60 fathoms ; and 30 feet of water can bo carried in. The deep water part of the South-west Arm, which continues for three-quarters of a mile within the entrance, is called Gasp^ basin ; it has a depth of from 5 to 9 fathoms, over a mud bottom, and is sufficiently capacious to hold a great number of vessels as securely as in a dock. Boats can ascend this arm by u narrow channel, between shoals, about 3 miles, as in the North-west Arm. and the navigation, for all but canoes or flat-bottom boats, is terminated in the same manner, by shallow channels between Marsh and Meadow islands ; above this part of the river it becomes contracted and rapid, and the water fresh. A small rivulet in the bay, on the inside of the south point of tho entrance of Gaspd basin, is the most convenient watering place in the harbour. The Collector of Customs, and tho principal families, reside on the shores of the basin. Most of these families, as well as those of the North-west Arm and the harbour generally, are farmers, but several of them are also engaged in the whale fishery, which they prosecute in small schooners. The cod fishery is carried on by the people of the bay outside, for the most part in connexion with the Jersey merchants. The great majority of the fishermen are either from Jersey, or descended from the people of that island, whose language they retain. TXSBa. — It is high water in Gaspe basin, full and change, at 2h. 40m. ; ordinary springs rise 5 feet, and neaps 3 ; extraordinary springs rise 7 feet. There are regular but weak streams ot flood and ebb in the entrances of the harbour and basin. In the bay the streams of the tides are so irregular, tb«t nothing certain can be said respecting thein. Thej are, however, ▼. oBAP.T.] GASpi bat;oasp£ basin; caution. usually almost imperceptible, excepting near fhe ehores, and even thero they arc so weak as to bo of little or no consequence to a vessel. OAunoir. — The current down the St. Lawrence runs strongly past Cape Gasp^ over towards Flat island, especially during the ebb tide, which often increases its rate to 2 knots, and this should be remembered by vessels making Gaspe bay with a northerly wind. This current, when it meets the swell which so often prevails from the south and south-east, causes a high, short, and breaking sea, all along tne const from above Capo Rozier to Cape Gaspe, and extending across the entrance of Gaspe bay. When the wind is light, a vessel becomes quite unmanageable in this seo, and it is extremely dangerous to be caught in it, close to the shore, by a light breeze on the land. The soundings off this part of the coast will prove of great use to ves- sels running up in foggy weather, and had they been known previous to this survey, might have saved many vessels. Wo will mention one circum- stance of a large ship, full of emigrants, which ran stem on to Whalo head in Gasp^ bay. She was under all sail before a moderate south-east wind, in a thick fog, and steering N.W. ; from which it appears that she must have been running in soundings from 20 to 40 fathoms, for at least 12 miles, and, probably, for 3 hours before she struck. No lead was hove, the existence of the soundings being unknown. The vessel was conceived to be well to the northward, and, consequently, to be steering a safe course. One cast of the lead would have dispelled this delusion, and might have saved the vessel. Let this be a warning to seamen. In the prolongation of the line of Cape Gaspe nearly, thero are several rocky patches frequented by the fishermen. They all lie in the same direction from the Flower-pot rock, S.S.E. ^ E. The first is a small patch with 8 fathoms least water, the second has 16 fathoms, and the third 10 fathoms. Their distance from the rock are seven.eighths, 1-^, and 13 miles respectively. There is deep water and irregular soundings between them ; and the last mentioned is on the banks of soundings which have been already alluded to. WTWSS. — In fine summer weather thero is often a sea-breeze blowing right up Gaspe bay from about 9 a.m. until sunset. At such times thero is generally' a light land-breeze at night down the arms, Avhich often ex- tends for several miles out into the bay. In the outer part of tho bay, however, it will generally be found to becalm, even at times when a fresh breeze is blowing outside Cape Gaspe and Point Peter. Tho wind at sea on such occasions is generally from the south-west. ASVBCT of COAST. — The bold and high coast between Cape Gaspe and Cape Chatte, a distance of 117 miles, will require only a brief notice, as it 90 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; SOUTH COAST. [cnAr. T. iH free from danger — with tlio exception of Serpent reef — und doblituto of harbours. The mountains everywhere approach the shore, which is steep and rocky, displaying cliff's, often of great lieight, ond without b'-iich. After heavy rains, waterfalls, which are not to bo seen ot other times, descend from great heights, and small bays, with sandy beach and rapid streams at their head, occur occasionally ; yet these features are not <.;enerally so strongly marked as to enable a stranger to make out one part of this coast from another, with facility. OAWrxoN-.—The long lino of coast just described, between Cape Gaspd and Capo Chatte, although so free from danger, is nevertheless to be guarded against in dark foggy nights, since the water is everywhere along it too deep to afford si^cicnt warning by the lead for the safety of vessels. The shore along its whole extent, excepting in some of the bays, is of highly inclined slato and greywacke rocks, which would cut through a viHHcra bottom in a very short time ; and such is the imprac- ticable nature of tlio country, that those who might escape to shore would run great risk of perishing from want before they could reach a settle- ment. CAM sozzas, which bears N. ^ E. nearly 7 miles from Cape Gasp6, is low, and of greywacke and slate rocks. The shoal water does not extend off it above one-third of a mile, but in the bay to the southward of it, at the distance of 1^ miles, there is a reef which runs out half a mile from the shore. Vessels )na_,' find shjlter under Cape Rozier from north-west winds, but th*^ ground is noi very good, and the easterly swell that frequently rolls in rendern it a dangerous anchorage. There are fishing establishments on the caj;e, and in its vicinity. KZOBT. — The lighthouse on Cape Rozier is a circular tower of white stone, 112 feet high. It exhibits at an elevation of 136 feet above the level of the sea a Jixed white light of the first order, which is visible in clear weather from a distance of 16 miles. The light is shown from the 1st of April to the 15th of December of each year. OBZinrnr oova ana kxvxw ure 6^ miles N.N.W., nearly, from Cape Rozier. A small bay here affords shelter to the boats of the fishermen, whose houses will be seen around it. There are from 2 to 3 fathoms water in this bay, over sandy bottom. ■appiiei. — This bay is of no use to shipping, except to obtain supplies of waier, wood, and occasionally, fresh provisions. OKBAT VOX sxva», at 11^ miles N.N.W. from Cape Rozier, is a mere brook, which enters a small bay about three-quarters of a mile wide, [cnAr. T. t'bliluto of !h ia steep ch. After I, descend trcams at lerally bo this coast en Cape r'ortheless orywhere le saf'etj ne of the i^ould cut ■ iniprac- ro would a settle- Gaspfi, is )t extend 1 of it, at from the St winds, 'itly rolls nenta on )f white ove the :sible in •om the m Capo lermen, 8 water applies CMAP. T.} CAPE ROZIER. — MAQDAIiRN RIVER. 91 and half a mile deep. Off cnch point of the bay there are reefs, which diminish the breadth of the entrance to Iohh than a quarter of a mile, and afford shelter to boats, and to very Kmivll schooners, in from 2 to 2^ fathoms, over a bottom of fine dark sand. Round the head of the bay there is a fine sandy beach. Outside the rcpfs, which extend only a very short distance to seaward, there are 15, 18, and 24 fathoms, over a bottom of sand and broken shells, at the distance of a quarter, half, and one mile respectively. ■vppUes.— In fine summer weather a vessel might inchor off Great Fox river and obtain water, wood, and supplies of fresh provisions ; but it is otherwise of no use to shipping. Seven families of fishermen and farmers resided hero in 1829, and had plenty lattlo, sheep, and swine. Since that period their number havogren- ' ncrcased, and a largo stone church has been lately erected. the only danger on tliis coast, runs out one mile S.E. by E. from Serpent point, its outer extreme, in 3 fathoms, being two thirds of a mile off shore, and N.N. VV^. 3| miles from Great Fox river. OXSAT VOMS is a small creek which affords shelter only to boats, and will be known by the houses and stages of the fishermen. The creek is 16 miles N.W. ^ N. from Great Fox river, and here as well as in every other cove along this coast to the westward, are seen the neat houses of the Canadian fishermen. r, is a • wide, I, the next place worthy of notice, is 24 miles from Great Pond, in a N.W. ^ W. direction, nearly. The mouth of this river is on the north-west side of a sandy buy, and close under Cape Magdalen, which is rocky, with cliffs of moderate height, and juts out a very short distance from a range of hills whleh foi-ms the coast line. A reef of rocks which dry in part at low water, extends from Cape Magdalen, about 2 cables to the south -east, parallel to the coast, and shelters the entrance of the river from northerly winds. The river is 30 yards wide at the en- trance, with a depth of 7 feet at low water ; within, for a very short distance, there are 10 feet over a clean bottom of fine sand. Farther up, the river becomes shallow and rapid, winding its way through a romantic valley between the mountains. Thirteen feet water can bo carried into this river at spring tides, so that it is a considerable stream, and is occasionally visited by schooners from 30 to 80 tons, which warp in when the sea is smooth and the weather fine. The bay is not deep, being merely a gentle curve with a sandy beach for about ^ :| IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) "/ 1.0 I.I UilM |25 m ^^ ■■■ ■tt 122 12.2 2.0 ■u u 140 li& ma^^ - < 6" .. ^ 7^ ^ Photographic Sciences CorporatiQn ^\ 23 WKT MAM STIMT WniTM,N.Y. USM (71*)t73-4S03 ^ *♦> 6^ > IS 6^ 92 GULP AND BIVEB OV ST. LAWBBIf CB ; SOUTH COAST, [oiup. f. a mile to the south-east of the river. Vessels may anchor here in 7 fathoms over a bottom of sand, fine gravel, and broken shells, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile from the sandy beach, and from the north-west point beai'ing W.N.W. The shelter is from W.N.W., round by south, to E.S.E., but it is only a fine weather anchorage, which may be of use to vessels wanting wood and water. > TI9B8. — It is high water, full and change, off Magdalen river, at Ih. 15m. Ordinary springs rise from 6 to 8 feet, and neaps from 3 to 4 feet. During two occasions a regular alternation of the stream of fiood and ebb was observed. The flood extended about l-^ miles from the shore, running one knot, and at the line of junction with the almost constant downward current there was a strong ripple. MOITT &OUX8 sivm, 16 miles farther along the coast to the W.N.W., is a much smaller stream than the Magdalen, being 20 yards wide at the entrance, and capable only of admitting a small boat at low water. There are 7 feet in the entrance at high water, and for a short distance within. The small bay, with sandy beach at its head, into which this river falls, is a mile wide, and nearly three-quarters of a mile deep. Vessels may anchor in it during fine weather, in from 8 to IG fathoms, mud bottom, nearer the west than the east side. The holding ground is excellent : but since a vessel ought not to be distant more than 3 cables from the west side of the bay, there is not much room to work out, and therefore it would be dangerous for a large vessel to be caught there by a wind on the land. Small vessels, or ships having occasion to stop for a few hours for wood or water, may safely anchor there in fine weather, and will find shelter in all winds, from W.N.W., round southerly, to E.S.E. Mont Louis river may be thus recognised. In a vessel off this part of the coast, four well marked openings will be seen in the high land in a space of 10 miles. The eastern opening is Grande Matte or Pleureuse river, the next westward is Mont Louis river, and the two others Claude and Pierre rivers. None of them afford good anchorage excepting Mont Louis. On approaching near the shore, an attention to the cliffs, shown in the chart, will point out Mont Louis river beyond a doubt. Several families have settled there and at Magdalen river since 1829. ■T. junra moovTASwa. — There is nothing worthy of remark for 26 miles farther westward to Cape St. Anne, after which the mountains begin to recede a little from the shore, and to diminish in height. There is, howeveri another range of mountains in the rear of the coast, oalled 11 ol cair. T.] MONT LOUIS, ST. ANNE, AND CHATTE BIVEBS. 93 Ihe St. Anne or Shickshoc mountains, which can be seen from a distance of 80 to 90 miles, under favourable circumstances ; and their highest peak, which is about 14 miles behind Cape Chatte, rises 3,970 feet above the sea. These are, therefore, the highest mountains in British North America. BT. JontM wtxvwMf which is 6 miles to the westward of the high Cape of the same name, and 10 miles to the eastward of Cape Chatte, can be entered by small schooners at high water. The entrance is difficult to a stranger. A large rock above water divides it into two very narrow channels, through which a rapid current almost always runs. It flow- into the sea through the sandy beach of a bay which affords very indifferent anchorage, the depth of water being too great, excepting at a less distance from the shore than would be considered prudent for any but small vessels. Several families reside here, from whom supplies of provisions can in general be obtained, and also from those at Cape Chatte river. 2| miles eastward of Cape Chatte, enters between large boulders a small sandy bay, affording no anchorage for ships ; and admits small schooners with difficulty at high water. The east point of this bay, 2 miles eastward of the river, is a low spit with a reef off it half a mile. Small coasting schooners occasionally anchor under it in westerly winds. Cape Chatte, when seen from the eastward or westward, so that it appears as the extreme point, can easily be distinguished, being a round hill sepa- rated from, but of less height, than the land behind it.* ASVBOT of COAST. — The south coast of the Estuary of the river St. Lawrence, from Cape Chatte to Matan, is straight, bold, and of the same rocks as that which has been just described. Although not a high coast, it is still of considerable elevation above the sea, and the St. Anne mountains continue in the rear of it, at the distance of about 15 miles to their south-western termination, which is 15 miles south of Cape Balance, the last being 25 miles westward of Cape Chatte. Several detached hills will be seen farther to the westward, which are also at a considerable distance from the coast. Two of these have been named the Paps of Matan, though they can with difficulty be made out when bearing S.W. ; on any other bearing it is still less easy to distinguish them, but they are of no use except to enable a vessel, obtaining a sight of land, to judge how far she is up the Estuary. ■J- 1 • Set Chart:— Biver St Lawrence Fart 1, Cape Chatte to Bio Island, with View, No. a09 ( Mile, « B • 85 of an ineh. : , 94 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; SOUTH COAST, [chap. r. Capuchin cove, and another cove on the west aide of Cape Michaux, afford shelter to boats. There are settlements at Little Matan, a small stream 3 miles eastward of the river Matan. ITAM, — The entrance to this fine stream is 33 miles W. ^ S. from Cape Chatte. The river is reported to have its source in a lake of considerable dimensions, distant about 60 miles, following the stream, inland. The depth over the bar is usually 4 feet at low water, and 15 at high water springs. The rise of the tides is, however, very irregular, and although there is often 12 feet at high water neaps, yet there has been seen as little as 10 feet. The depth of water seems to depend so much upon the winds which prevail in the Estuary, that it is impossible to calculate it at any time exactly. Easterly winds were observed to cause high tides, and westerly winds the contrary. The channel is very narrow, and there are several large boulder stones in it, lying on the pand, which diminish the depth 2 feet, and are extremely dangerous when there is any swell. The bar is continually shifting from the effects of gales of wind, so that no directions can be given for sailing in. There are pilots residing here, and no vessel should attempt the entrance without one. The bar when it was surveyed ran out in a circular form from the east point of entrance, and was met so nearly by another point of sand, running out from the small isolated cliff on the west point of entrance, as to leave only a very narrow channel. The bar drjed at low water, and no part of U extended more than 3 cables' lengths outside the entrance of the river. Inside the bar the entrance, between two sandy points, is not more than 60 yards wide, and a rapid current runs out during the ebb tide. There is not room enough for a vessel to lie safely afloat inside, but, nevertheless, considered as a tide harbour, it is a useful place to coasting schooners, which ground at half tide on a good bottom of mud and stones. To a vessel which had lost her anchors, or which had received injury, this river would afford a place of refuge in which she could be safely repaired an'^' '^fitted. The sandy beach extends about a third of a mile to the e< cd of the entrance, and incloses a large space dry at low water, with the exception of the narrow and rapid rhannel of the river, v/hich is full of stones. The tide ascends . about n mile to a rapid over a ledge of rocks, above which the stream is swift, shallow, and navigable for canoes, to the lake above mentioned. ■nppiiM of provisions can usually be obtained at the Matan river ; and it will be easily made out from a vessel, since the entrance shows plainly. The cli% mound on the west side of the entrance, and the buildings, and large stone church, will also serve to point it out. .„ •■^^■uatfi^^'tifmi f*^«« .>«: OHA». v.] RIVER MATAN. — LITTLE AND GRAND METIS BAYS. 95 Matan is the name of the seignory containing about 500 inhabitants, most of whom live by the combined means of fishing, farming, and piloting. The soil is good, and gives good crops of wheat and other grain, excepting in bad seascas. roBOBAoa. — Outside the bar there is anchorage in 5 fathoms half a mile off-shore, and in 10 fathoms a little farther out, the bottom being of sand and clay. ■. — ^It is high water, full and change, in the Matan river, at 2h. 15m. ; ordinary springs rise 11 feet, and neaps 7 feet. 1.1 r, lying 23 miles W. | S., nearly, from Matan, is small and divided into two rocky coves, which are open to the eastward, and dry at low water. The coast from Matan to Metis is low, rocky, wooded, unbroken, and may be approached with care by the lead, the bank of soundings becoming gradually wider as we proceed to the westward (page 39). Little Metis river, a small stream, is at the head of the southern cove. There are several buildings, and a fishing establishment on Metis point, the outer extreme of the bay. A reef, which is bold on the north side, and has some of its rocks always above water, runs out from this point nearly three-quarters of a mile to the eastward, and enables small vessels to remain at anchor, in 3 fathoms, over mud bottom, with the wind as far to the northward as N.W. In this berth vessels lie midway between the eastern end of the reef, and a large Round rock near the shore on the south-east side of the bay. Larger vessels may anchor farther out in 5 or 6 fathoms water, but not in the stream of the reef, where the ground is foul and rocky. The east end of the reef may be passed by the lead in 4 fathoms, or with the Round rock bearing S.E., but vessels of large draught had better not bring it to bear to the eastward of S.S.E. This rock, which lies about 1^ miles E.S.E. from the reef off the outer point of the bay, will serve to point out Little Metis to a stranger. It cannot be mistaken for Grand Metis with the Admiralty charts, since there is no resemblance in the shapes of the bays. Neither place can be easily made out from a greater distance than 5 or 6 miles, because the points are very low. HT is separated from Little Metis by Metis point. Grand Metis river, a small stream 5 miles westward of Little Metis, is near the west end of the bay, and is nearly dry outside of the very narrow entrance at low water. The bay is rather more than 3 miles wide, and three-quarterB of a mile deep ; but it ia all ehoal. Small vessels may :-i 9$ GULP AND RIVEB OP ST. LAWBENGE ; SOUTH COAST. [OBAT. T. anchor in 3^ or 4 fathoms, under its east point, close to the edge of the shoal water, and in tolerable shelter from winds along the coast, but there is no shelter for shipping. Nevertheless, vessels lie hero all the summer months for the purpose of taking in timber. They are usually moored in 6 fathoms, at low water, over mud bottom, and with the river bearing about S.S.W., distant 1^ miles. In this position they are half a mile from the 3 fathoms edge of the shoal water which extends from the shore ; and as they are outside of the lino joining the points of the bay, they are ex- posed to the prevailing winds along the coast, and must ride very heavily at times. There is, however, seldom much sea with these winds so close in shore, and the northerly winds seldom blow strong until September. This is a dangerous anchorage after the commencement of that month, but at other times, and in fine weather, vessels may safely anchor anywhere off the bay in from 6 to 12 fathoms ; the bottom being everywhere good, and plenty of room to get under weigh. ooox oova affords good anchorage for scnooners, in 3 fathoms at low water, well sheltered from the winds along the coast. The summit of Mount Gamille (page 46) bears from the west point of Cock Ck>ve S.E. by S., 8 miles, and will servo to point out its position to a stranger. AVOBOSAOB. — ^It may be remarked here, that vessels of large draught may anchor, in fine weather, all along the coast from Metis to Green island.* VATBaK voiwT bears from the west point of Grand Metis bay W. by S. 14^ miles. It is low, covered with houses, and the regular rendezvous of the pilots, many of whom reside there. XZOKT. — ^A light tower, of octagonal shape and painted white, is erected on the extremity of Father point. It exhibits, at 43 fectc above the level of high water, a fixed red light, which in clear weather will be visible from a distance of 10 miles, when bearing between W. by S. \ S., round south, and E. \ N. It is lighted from 10th April to lOth December of each year. BXKOV8XT SOAB. — The eastern point of Barnaby island is 3 miles W. by S. from Father point, and between them is the anchorage or road of Rimousky, where vessels ride throughout the summer to take in cargoes of lumber. They lie moored in 4 or 5 fathoms at low water, with excellent holding ground, and sheltered from W. by N., round by south, to E.N.E. The best sheltered berth is with the eastern point of Barnaby island bearing * See Cbart :— Biver St. Lawrence beloir Quebec, Sheet 2, No. 312 1 aeale, aiahalf an ioeb. OBAT. T.] FATHER POINT. — OLD BIC HARBOUR. W. by N., Rimousky church S.S.W. ^ W., and Father point E.N.E., in 4 fathoms at low water spring tides over mud bottom. Small vessels can anchor farther to the westward in 8 fathoms at low water, with the east end of the rocks, off the eastern point of Bamaby island, bearing N.W. by W., and distant a quarter of a mile. The reef does not extend above a quarter of a mile off the eastern point of Bamaby island, and may be passed by the lead in 4 fathoms. A landing-pier has recently been built at Rimousky 2,150 feet long, and having at its end a depth of 8^ feet at low water springs. FAST xaxJkVB is 3^ miles long, and very narrow. It is low, wooded, and uninhabited, and is composed of slate and greywacke rocks, like all the coast and islands on this side of the Estuary. In the interior of the island there is a long pond of fresh, but not good water, which last must be obtained from the Rimousky river. The channel between the island and Rimousky is dry at low water. From 7 to 12 feet can be carried through it at high water, according as it is neap or spring tide, but at no time should a vessel drawing more than 8 feet attempt this passage, since there are rocks and large stones hero and there, and also fish stakes. The church of Rimousky to the eastward of the river, and many houses, will be seen directly opposite the island. Off the outside of Barnaby island there is a 3-fathom shoal, extending out fully two-thirds of a mile, and the reef off its western end runs out in the direction of the island more than three-quarters of a mile. Between the western end of the island and the mainland there is a large high and Dare rock, which is distant from the island about two-thirds of a mile. rABT SOAB. — Midway between the western points of Barnaby island and Bare rock, bearing North and South from each other, there are 2 fathoms at low water, over muddy bottom, in Barnaby road, which affords good anchorage to small vessels, in all but westerly winds. Rimousky church in one with the eastern end of the rock will lead over the tail of the reef off the west end of Barnaby, and into this anchorage. ou> BZO BASBOUB, distant 7^ miles to the westward of Bamaby island, dries at low water, and has many rocks in it. Two round and high rocky islets, called the Bicoques, will be seen extending to the westward of its east point, and diminishing the breadth of the entrance to two-thirds of a mile. Midway between these rocky islets and the west point of the harbour small vessels may anchor in Old Bic road in 3 fathoms at low water, with [si. l.]— tol. I. a 98 GULF AND BIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; SOUTH COAST. Lobat. t. ft muddy bottom, and with the point bearing West, distant one«third of a mile. To run into this anchorage from the north-west, keep the western- most of the two rocky islets its own breadth open to the eastward of the west point of the harbour, and this will clear the eastern rock of the Cape Arignole reef, which is the only danger in the way. i , 'f^"^ii-M:^^ ABicnro&a vmmr, distant one mile westward from Old Bic harbour, is composed of two rocks lying across the mouth of the shallow Arignole bay. The western rock is a quarter of a mile long and very narrow ; its west end is always above water, and bears from the north-west extremity of Cape Arignole, E. ;^ N. 1^ miles ; but it is distant only a quarter of a mile from the rocks on the eastern side of the cape. The eastern rock is ■mall, covered in high tides, and distant one-third of a mile from the other rock. There are 5 or 6 fathoms water between these rocks, which are very bold to the northward, and vessels might pass between them and the mainland, by keeping close to them, were it ever necessary to try so dangerous a passage. : . - < » 7 iv <' iiHi.cr !»■■ " "f ' OA»B JUUOaro&a is distant 10 miles to the westward from Bamaby island, and the summit of the high land of Bic, 1,234 feet above the sea at Jiigh water, bears from the north-west extremity of the cape S.W. by S. 2^ miles. .?■"*■'!•.■ .• .;',,.-.,.. '^. v.- ^ ,,-. , r^i ;!.,,f r, on the western side of Cape Arignole, affords excellent anchorage, in easterly winds, off its entrance in 4 fathoms at low water» and farther in for small vessels in 3 fathoms ; but it is seldom used, be- cause the equally safe and more roomy anchorage under Bic is justly preferred. The hills in this neighbourhood are composed of high and narrow ridges of grey wacke rocks, parallel to the coast, and to each other, and declining gradually in elevation on either side of the summit of the high land of Bic. When these ridges are seen nearly end on, from either up or down the Estuary, they present an outline so remarkable that this land can be made out from very great distances. . ^ BIO iMMULtra lies directly off Cape Arignole, at the distance of nearly 2\ miles, and is about 3 miles long, without including the reefs, in a direc- tion parallel to the coast, and a mile broad. Its shores are of slate rocks } it is thickly wooded, uninhabited, and its height does not exceed 150 feet above the sea. mrater. — Supplies of water can only be obtained from the bay be- iween the east and south-east points of Bic island, and not always there cnAP.r.] ,r. ! BIC ISLAND. — BICQUETTE CHANNEL. 99 in dry seasons. But vessels may supply themselves from the river in the south-east comer of Old Bic harbour, or from a stream on the west side of a small bay of the mainland, 4 miles westward of Cape Arignole. aiOQVaxTa uiuurs, lying three-quarters of a mile to the north- ward of Bic, is half a mile long, a quarter of a mile broad, and about 100 feet high above the sea. ... ^, iiiOHT. — The lighthouse on the west point of Bicquette island is & conical tower of gray stone, 65 feet high. It shows at an elevation of 112 feet above the level of high water, a white light which revolves every two minutes, and is visible in clear weather from a distance of 17 miles. A gun is fired every hour during fogs and snow storms. f. — Several large rocks above water extend one-third of ft mile to the east and south-east of Bicquette island, and diminish the breadth of the channel between it and Bic to little more than half a mile. Off the west end of Bicquette, in a S.W. by W. ^ W. direction, there are two largd rocks always above water, and a third which covers at high water ; these lie nearly in a line, and extend to the distance of a mile from the island. The North-west reef of Bicquette is the greatest danger, lying West 1^ miles ti,om the west end of the island. The cross mark for it is the west end of Bic in one with the north-west point of Ha- Ha bay, bearing S.S.E. ^ E. ; but this last-named point can seldom be plainly made o\i% in consequence of the high land behind it. In approaching the reef from the westward, the north extremity of Cape Arignole should not be shut in behind the west point of Bic. This reef is composed of two rocks about 1^ cables long, and which just cover at high water : both it and Bicquette are bold to the northward (page 39). There is deep water all along the 'ii from the north side of Bicquette to this reef, and also between the lattei and the rocks to the south-east of it, but these are dangerous passages, which ought not to be generally tried, though it is useful to know of their existence in case of emergency. BiOQUBTTa oBAxmub. — The same remarks must be applied to Bic- quette channel, between Bic and that island : there are no leading marks for running through, but it may easily be done with the assistance of the Admiralty charts in case of necessity. The south-western reef off Bicquette is most in the way, and there are also two small round rocks on the Bic side, 2 cables' lengths off shore, and bearing nearly South from the wedt end of Bicquette. To avoid the first of these dangers, do not bring the south extremity of 'the rocks off the south-east side of Bicquette to bear to the eastward of o 2 11 100 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; SOUTH COAST, [oraf. t. E. by N. ^ N. ; and if the north side of Bic, near its east end, is not brought to bear to the northward of E. | N., the second will be cleared, which, however, always ehows, excepting in very high tides. These directions are, however, insufflcicnt without the chart, which must be carefully con- sulted, for this is an intricate and dangerous place. The best time to run through is at low water, when all the dangers show, and a vessel, keeping in mid-channel between them, will have from 9^ to 5 fathoms, with irre- gular soundings and foul ground occasionally. ■.a. mmmr, — Bic has another set of dangers of its own. The first of these is the South-cast reef, which extends out from the south-cast point of the island to the distance of nearly 1 J miles, in on E. by S. direction. The outer part of this reef is formed of three rocks lying in a straight line, and always above water. The two easternmost are the largest, and are nearly joined together, whilst the westernmost of the three is detached, ■o as to leave a channel through the reef 1^ cables wide, and carrying 5 fathoms water. Vessels of large draught should not attempt to pass between these rocks, or between them and Bic, for the tides are rendered irregular by the un- even bottom, and there is much foul ground about. Small schooners can pass on either side of the western rock, keeping close to it, if they pass to the westward. The shoal water does not extend beyond a cable's length from the east end of the South-east reef : the rocks above water are bold, both on their north and south sides. The inner part of the reef, extending imder water from the south-east point of Bic, reaches farther to the southward than the direction of the rocks, and must be avoided by not bringing the south side of Bic to bear to the southward of W. by S. w.a. BBsr.— The Xorth-east reef is a small patch of black rocks, which shows at low water, lying N.E. by E. 4 cables' lengths from the north-east point of Bic, and N.W. ^ W., rather more than one mile from the east end of the South-east reef. To pass to the eastward of this reef, keep both the rocky islets on the east side of Old Bic harbour open to the eastward of the South-east reef, bearing nothing to the eastward of S.E. by S. wasT cmomrsB or bio are an extensive flat of slate, which partly dries at low water. The outer point of these Grounds, in 3 fathoms, bears W. ^ S. from the west point of the island, distant nearly three- quarters'of a mile ; and they may be approached by the lead, as nearly as the depth of 5 fathoms, at low water. A&cisa SOOK, lying S.W. nearly 3| miles from the west point of Bic island, has no connexion with that island, but as it is extremely dan- gerous, and lies much in the way of vessels passing through the Bic CBAF. T.] BICQUET 2 CHANNEL. — ALCIDE ROCK. — ANCHORAGE. lOl channel, we shall notice it here. It in a small rock, about 6 feet long and 2 feet wide, with 4 foot on it at low water. It rises from a small rocky shoal ft cable long, parallel to the coast, and about half as wide, which is so bold all round that there is no warning whatever by the lead. From the north-west extremity of Capo Arignolo the rock bears W. ^ S., distant S miles ; and it is rather more than 1| miles distant from the shore to the southward. There is no close leading mark fur clt.oring it, but vessela will be in no danger from it if Mount Camille be not entirely shut in behind Cape Arignolo. BimaoTiowB.— The a1x)ve mark, together with the bearings which bave been given, will be a sufficient guide to vessels beating through Bio channel in their board to the southward. In their northern board, towards the West Grounds of Bic, the South-east reef must not shut in behind the south side of Bic. All along the south side of Bio, and the South-oast reef, they may safely stand in to 7 fathoms at low water, not however, without remembering what has been said respecting the inner part of the latter. Cape Arignolo and its reef are quite bold to the northward ; and farther to the eastward, between Old Bic harbour and Barnaby island, vessels may safely stand into 4^ fathoms at low tide : the ground is all clean sand and mud bottom, with excellent ar>chorage ia every part. With this full description of the dangers around Bic and Bicquette, and the assistance of the Admiralty charts, vessels will have no difficulty in pass- ing on either side of these islands in clear weather, for at night the revolving light on Bicquette will render it easy to pass to the northward of the island and its reefs. In fogs, the gun fired every hour at the light- house, and the soundings, must be carefully attended to. AWOKOBAOa. — ^There is excellent anchorage under either end of Bic, and also between it and the main land, according to the wind ; and vessela which may be met by an easterly wind, had better anchor than attempt to beat down the Estuary in the long ■ s, ■;l^J ^^^A -. i )09 OULF AND BIVER OF ST. LAWRBNCK ; SOUTH COAST, [ouat. t, west end of Bic, haul to the northward, with the lead going, and taking, care not to approach the West Orounds nearer than the depth of 6 fathoms tkt low water, until the south side of Bio boars £. ^ N., and tho north side N.E. hy £. ^ E. With these bearings, anchor in 7 fathoms at low water, over muddy bottom. !• > i ^i ■ In this position a vessel will have the South-oast reef shut in behind the south side of Bic ; Bicquette, its lighthouse and its rocks, will be all. ppen to the northward of Bio ; the North-west reef of Bicquette will bear N. | E., rather more than 1 j miles ; she will be fully half a mile to the westward of the depth of t3 fathoms on the outer extremity of tho West Grounds of Bic, and consequently will have plontly of room to weigh with the first of the westerly wind, when she should bo cast to the southward, and run through Bic channel to the eastward. A wind from the southward, together with the set of the ebb tide, might perhaps render it preferable to rnn out to tho northward round the North-west reef of Bicquette ; in which case do not go to the eastward into less than 8 fathoms at low water, nor shut in the north extremity of Cape Arignole behind the west point of Bic* At artvht. — If it be night, and yet not so dark but that the principal features of tho land can be made out, although it might be dangerous to attempt to make the low South-east reef, another mode of proceeding may be adopted, under the circumstances above contemplated, and supposing the position of the vessel to be known. In that case, run in to tho south- ward, towards the main land, half-way between Barnaby island and Bic, until the soundings shoal to o fathoms, at low water ; ther. steer West (corrected /or deviation), and the water will gradually deepen. When the depth is 9 fathoms the vessel will be past Old Bic, and the opening of that harbour will probably be seen to the southward. When the soundings are 11 or 12 fathoms, she will be past the Arignole reef, and will soon begin to shoal again on the Bic side of the channel. If it be too dark to see the island, go no nearer than the depth of 7 fathoms. When it is judged that the vessel is far enough to the westward, haul gradually to tho north- ward into the stream of the island, and anchor as near the position pre-.^ viously pointed out as can be done. It is not, however, necessary that' the vessel should be 4n that position, although it has been recommended as the best sheltered ; for she may anchor, and will ride easily, anywhere' under and within 3 miles of the island, in 8, 9, or 10 fathoms at low water ; and large and heavy ships would perhaps wish to lie farther o£f- tjian has been recommended. f>.4f w. ' .1,4, * See Chart :— Biver St. Lawrence, Part 2, Xa 310; icale, m ■> 0*as of an inch. '.▼.] BIG channel; directions; tides. * •. ! 103 A TMsel being to the northward of Blc, and wishing to ran to the same anchorage fVom the north-woat, so as to pass to the westward of the North- west reef of Bicquetto, should run to the westward, going no nearer to Bicquette and the North-west reef than the depth of SO fathoms, till the extremity of Cape Arignole comes open to the south-west of Bic, bearing 8.E. ^ E. : then haul to the southward, going no nearer to the reefs of Bicquette than the depth of 8 fathoms and anchor as before directed. Should the weather be so thick that no land can be seen, either mode •f proceeding may be adopted. The latter, however, is to be recom- mended, as attended with less rislc ; but in such case, the distance run must be carefully attended to, due allowance made for the tide, and the soundings in the chart consulted. The principal thing is to make sure that the vessel has run far enough to the westward to insure clearing the North-west reef, when she hauls to the southward, for whether she anchors within 1 or 3 miles of Bic, will make no other difference than ihat the water will be smoother at the less than at the greater distance. 9IBBOTIOWS with ^i^asvaB&T 17SWSS. — Vessels running down from the westward to anchor under Bic island, should keep Mount Camille open to the northward of Cape Arignole to clear the Alcide rock. Then running along the south side of Bic, and the South-east reef, they should haul round the east point of the latter, no nearer than a quarter of a mile, nor than 8 fathoms, and anchor with the east point of the South- west reer bearing S.W. ^ S., three-quarters of a mile, in 10 fathoms at low water over clay bottom. The north-east point of Bic will then bear West a little southerly, the north-east point of Bicquette W. by N., and the whole of Capo Arignole will be just open to the southward of the South-east reef. Large ships may anchor farther off to the eastward, but in the berth recommended, a vessel will have plenty of room tu cast to the southward, and weather the South-east reef, in case of a sudden shift of wind. Should she, however, prefer going to the northward round Bicquette, let her beware of the North-east reef of Bic, and also, particularly if the wind be light, of the indraught of the flood tide between Bic and Bicquette. untb wOBTsaB&T y/nmnm vessels may anchor anywhere in Bio channel, but the best berth is off a small sandy point, nearly in the middle of the south side of Bic island, in 8^ or 9 fathoms at low water, over muddy bottom, at three quarters of a mile off shore. vj;-*-.- >; .■^ »ha i^ 1 1 '■ r B. — ^It is high- water at Bic island, full and change, at 2h. 15m. ; ordinary springs rise 14 feet, and neaps 8^ feet. '" ,.-r- .;v^, , 104 GULF AND BIYEB OF ST. LAWRENCE; SOUTH COAST, [obaf.t. To the westward of Bic the first of the flood comes from the north-east but there is but little stream of flood in neap tides between Bic and the main land, excepting close to the latter. In spring tides it runs through the channel nt the average rate of 1^ knots, being strongest near the main land. It also runs between Bic and Bicquette, but the stream extends only a very short distance outside the latter island. The stream of flood continues its course close along the main land, passing inside, and also very close outside, of the Razade, Basque, and Apple islands ; but nowhere extending a sufficient distance off shore to be of use to ships beating to the westward much below Green island. That part of the stream of flood which passes farther out towards Bic, and also that which passes between Bic and Bicquette, runs at its full rate only until at half flood, after which it becomes gradually weaker, turning to the north-west, round the west end of the island, and finally to the north and north-east, towards the end of the tide. The stream of flood becomes weaker, and of less duration, as we proceed to the westward of the islands. Half way between Bis and the Razade islets there is slack water for about an hour at the end of the ebb : after which a weak flood makes during the first quarter of that tide, at the rate of a quarter of a knot ; and this is succeeded by the eddy flood at the rate of 1^ knots, or 2^ at the edge of the Bank of Soundings, which comes from the westward, running in the same direction as the ebb during the remainder of the flood tide. From these remarks it will be seen, that vessels will make little way to the windward against a westerly wind on tho Bank of Soundings between Bic and the Razade islets ; and indeed all the way to Green island. The set of the latter part of the flood to the northward past the west end of Bic should be remembered by vessels weighing from the western anchorage, or approaching the island v/ith light winds, especially in the night, or thick weather. The first of the ebb sets off shore, or from the southward, and this is more particularly remarkable at the eastern anchorage, but it only lasts for a very short time, after which the stream runs fairly between the islands, and along the coast to the eastward, for the rer^ainder of the tide. Its rate, in westerly winds, varies from 2 to 2^ knots, according as it is neap or spring tide, but it does not run so strongly in easterly winds. IK orsovwBnros. — The chart will show how extensive the south Bank of Soundings is, both to the eastward and westward of Bic and Bicquette, and the assistance which the soundings on it may afford to OUP.T.] BANK OF SOUNDINGS. — RAZADE ISLETS. 105 ▼easels at night, or in fogs, will be evident. If vessels on approaching those islands from either direction, will but use their leads in reference to the BouTi'lings in the chart, to the bearing of the light, or the gun fired from the lighthouse, and attend to the directions given in page 39, thej can scarcely run foul of Bicquette, or its reefs, as has so often occurred in times past. The 30 fathoms edge of the Bank, after passing only 1^ miles to the northward of the North-west reef of Bicquette, continues to tho westward nearly in a straight line ; leading 4 miles to the northward of the Bazade and Basque islands, 2;^ miles from Apple island, and, be it remembered, to within half a mile of the dangerous Green Island reef (page 106). There is anchorage on this Bank in 10 or 12 fathoms, with good holding ground, all along the south coast from Bic to Green island. OAVTZOK. — ^The coast of the main land between Bic island and the Kazade islets is high and rocky. With the exception of the Alcide rock, noticed in page 100, it is free from danger to small vessels, which' may stand close in ; but vessels of large draught should not stand in farther than 7 fathoms ftt low, and 9 fathoms at high water, because of a long ridge of rocky ground, extending 5 miles to the E.N.E. from the north-east Bazade islet, with 17 feet least water near its eastern end. To clear every part of this ridge, keep Basque island its own breadth open to the northward of the north-east Bazade. ♦ :: VH are two large rocks about a quarter of a mile long ; they are low, bare of trees, and bear from each other S.W. ^ W., 1^ miles. The north-easternmost of these islets bears from the North-west reef of Bicquette S.W. by W., nearly 15 miles, and is distant 1^ miles from the main land to the southward. There is no passage for vessels between them and the shore. t'l iq^VB zs&AarB, lying 5 miles W.S.W. from the north-east Bazade islet, is 1^ miles long, parallel to the coast, and 2 cables wide. Its greatest height above the sea does not exceed 100 feet : it is rocky, wooded, unin- habited, and there is no passage for ships between it and the shore, from which it is distant 2 miles. Near the south-west end of this island a sandy spit runs out a quarter of a mile to the southward. Close off the end of this spit there is a long and narrow hole with 4 or 5 fathoms in it at low water, in which small craft may be secured. The shoal water extends half a mile to the northward of Basque island, and there is a reef of rocks to the N.W. and West of its western point. 106 GULF>kND HIVBR OF ST. LAWRENCE; SOUTH COAST, [chap. T^ On the western extremity of this reef, and about 6 cables' distant from the island, is a round rock which shows at half tide. .TUTEwj m,ifi»-m> :,$#•>«■? >, bearing W. bj S. } S., 2| miles from Basque island is formed by one principal and several smaller rocks ; the whole covering a space one mile long parallel to the coast, by 1^ cables wide. It is 30 or 40 feet above the sea at high water, without any trees, and distant 2^ miles from the nearest point of main land. There is no passage for ships between it and the shore, but its north side is bold to, there being 4 fathoms at the distance of a cable's length. at its eastern end, has a long and narrow point of fockb, always above water, and running out more than half a mile from the trees towards Apple island, which is distant from it 2| miles in an E.N.E. direction. Half this distance towards Apple island is occupied by reefs of slate which dry at low water. In the remainder, there are a few feet of water, affording a passage for very small schooners, which run in- between Green island and the main at high water. And here it may be mentioned that the line of shoal water is continuous from each of these islands to the other, and may be safely approached with care to 7 fathoms at low, or 10 fathoms at high water ; as may also the islands. <>t;^.; KIOKT. — ^A square stone light tower, 40 feet high, and coloured white, stands on the north point of Green island, nearly 2 miles from' the eastern extremity of the rocks above water, off its east point, and W. by S. ^ S., 4| miles, from Apple island. It exhibits, at an elevation of 60 feet above the level of high water, a ^xed white light, which can be seen in clear weather, and in the ordinary state of the refraction, from the distance of about 12, 14, or 17 miles, according as the height of the observer's eye is elevated 10, 20, or 60 feet. Behind the light- tower, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile, and bearing S.S.E. from it, there is a white beacon for leading clear of the tail of the Red Islet reef (page 47). ' ' .^ rature of the year being certainly below the freezing point. On the Gitlnares* arrival at Chateau bay on the 25th of July, the earliest plants were found just springing up, and the grass only just beginning to give a shade of green in the sheltered spots between the hills. The tem- perature of the sea outside the bay was at 32**, and the air at 43° of Fahrenheit, in the warmest period of the day. The fishermen, however. • iSee Chart :— Qnlf of 8t Lawrence, Sheet I, No. 1,430 1 Bcale, m : coxreeted to 1860. tO'25 ofaninoIi» 110 LABRADOR COAST; CAPE ST. IJ:WI8 TO GRAND POINT. Cch^p- ▼»• reported that it is much more cold about Chateau bay, and the north side of the Atlantic entrance of the Strait of Belle-isle, than it is farther to the northward, and also that fogs are of more frequent occurrence. Our own experience, as far as \t goes, confirms the truth of this statement. Thej saj that we must go three or four degrees farther north, to find it equally as cold as it is there. It would seem that this low temperature is common to the entrance of narrow straits, for we not only found the sur- face of the sea colder there than elsewhere in the neighbourhood, but also at Mingan, Point de Monts, and Bic ; and the low temperature of the air obviouslj depended upon that of the sea ; for when we proceeded only a very few miles up the bays, the increase of temperature was felt im* mediately. OAva ST. XBWTB is of precipitous and dark red granitic hills, about 600 feet high. At its southern extremity there is a small rocky pen^ insula ; and nearly a mile to the east of this lies St. Lewis rock, small, low, black, and close to the shore. ,. . . , ..-. . ■T. &swz> sotnTOi open to the eastward, is more than 4 miles wide «t the entrance, between Cape St. Lewis and the North Battle island : the island bearing from the south extremity of the Cape S. by W. ^ W. The sound from its entrance to Telegraph point, at the entrance of St. Lewis inlet, is 8 miles deep in a N.W. by W. direction. Its northern shores are formed by the mainland ; and the southern by the Battle, Great Caribou, and several other islands, for about 5 miles in, after which the mainland is on both sides. The shores are almost everywhere quite bold ; and the water is everywhere extremely deiep, often exceeding 50 or 60 fathoms. Nearly in the centre of the sound are the Middle rocks ; And farther in, the River islands. , , , '.•4f-, rox BASBOmt, 1^ miles to the north-west of the south extremity of €ape St. Lewis, is a cove of the mainland, running in nearly a mile to E.N.E., and forming quite a secure anchorage in from 5 to 8 fathoms, over mud bottom. The entrance of this harbour is only about a cable wide, but the harbour is more than twice as wide within. Its east point is low, with several houses of the fishermen upon it ; and there is a small rock abovb water close off it to the northward, and joined to it by shoal water. -^«* VTater may be had in Fox harbour from runs, and ponds, but wood is ^extremely scarce. ^ r.' \^- . . 4 . lit BiBBCTZoars. — No other directions for Fox harbour are toece'ssary than for a vessel to sail in to th6 northward, close past the point on which the houses stand, and then, leaving an unsheltered bay running to the north on her port hand, haul round the rock above water to the eastward into OTAI*. Ti.] CAPE ST. LEWIS. — LEWIS SOUND ; DIRECTIONS. 1 1 1 the harbour. In order to paes in the deepest water, she should not leav6 the rock more than half a cable's length on her starboard hand, for there is a reef partly above water off the south-west extreme of the pointy which separates the harbour from the unsheltered bay to the westward of it, and forms the north side of the entrance. The best berth to anchor in is about 3 cables' lengths within the entrance. BBBm BAmaovB is formed by Mamham island, which is narrow, of considerable height, and about 1;^ miles long. The eastern entrance^ between the east end of this island and the main, is narrow, and only fit for boats. The principal entrance, which is 5 miles N.W. of Cape St. Lewis, is between the west end of the island and Deer point, 4 cables wide, with a depth of from 19 to 31 fathoms in the middle, and bold to the rocks on either side. The harbour to the northward of the island is of the same breadth, extensive enough for any number of vessels, and quite landlocked ; but the water is inconveniently deep, being generally from 16 to 26 fathoms, and over mud bottom. The course and distance from North Battle island, to the entrance of Deer Harbour, is N. by W. ^ W. 8 miles. There are no dangers that cannot be seen either in the entrance or within this harbour, and there is room for the largest ships to beat in or out, so that no particular directions seem necensary. The course in from the sound, between Deer point and Marnham island, is North ; and then E.S.E. into the harbour between the island and the main ; or N.W., up the cove in that direction, where there is also secure anchorage in a more convenient depth of water than in the harbour, but with less room for large vessels. ^iTater may be obtained from small runs of water, or ponds of rain water, in various parts near the shores of Deer harbour ; and there are a few small trees up the north-west cove, but firewood is p.carce. 09waK BAT is immediately to the south-west of the entrance of Deer harbour ; Deer point, which is the west point of entrance of the latter, being also the north point of entrance of the former. The south point of entrance of Open bay is of green felspar, bearing from Deer point S. ^ W. 1^ miles ; and having off it, at the distance of half a mile to the S.E. ^ E., the Black reef above water. Open bay runs in 4^ miles to the north- w^est, and is about half a mile wide, with deep water. There is good Anchorage near its head ; but as it is completely open to the wind and sea from the south-east, it is not a safe place for vessels. BntaoTXoars for at. xwns ■ovwb. — The entrance of the channel, leading to St. Lewis inlet, is between the Black reef just mentioned and the ■:| J, ', ; V-l 112 LABRADOR COAST ; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [oiur. ti. Seal isles, which are the easternmost of the River islands. This entrance is more than a mile wide, with very deep water, and the course and distance to it from Cape St. Lewis is W. by N. ^ miles ; or vessels bound to St. Lewis inlet may take their departure from North Battle island, described in page 116. Steering from it N.N.W., a run of 2f miles will bring them to the North Middle rocks, which are two bare rocks close together, and about 40 feet high, Give these rocks a berth of 2 cables' lengths or more, leaving them to the westward or to port, and then continue the same course, N.N.W., for 2 miles or more, when the two Seal isles (small and bare, with shoal water a short distance off their east ends) will be about 4 cables' lengths to the westward. Alter course now to N.W. by W., and run in through the channel to the northward of the River islands ; and between them and the Black reef. Felspar point, &c. This channel is nearly three quarters of a mile wide in the narrowest part, and there is deep water, with nothing in the way excepting two small islets, which will bo readily seen, and may be safely passed to the southward at the distance of a cable's length. A run of 3| miles on the N.W. by W. course will place the vessel abreast of Telegraph point, which is the south point of entrance of the inlet, and the west side of the channel leading to the southward between the River islands and the main. St. &s«ns XKJMT is nearly a mile wide at the entrance, and becomes wider within. There are bays with several small islands in them on the south side of the inlet, but no good anchorage, by reason of the great depth of water, and the exposure to the easterly winds, until we arrive at Black Fly island, which is the first in the centre of the inlet. The course and distance from the entrance of the inlet to this island is N.W. by N. 9 miles. The depth of water often exceeds 30 fathoms in the centre of the inlet, and is nearly 20 fathoms close to the shores on either side. The bottom is everywhere of mud, and there are no dangers in the way excepting a small rocky shoal, 2 miles below the island, which, being always above water, will readily be seen, and must be left on the larboard or port hand in running up the inlet. ' Black Fly island is about a third of a mile long, partially wooded, and surrounded with boulder stones, which extend from it 3 cables' lengths down the inlet, and also from the north point of the island across to the main, so as to leave only one navigable channel, which is to the south* westward of the island. There is good anchorage under the west side of this island, in from 5 to 9 fathoms, over a bottom of mud and stones ; and wood and water may be had in abundance. OBAT. ▼!.] ST. LEWIS SOUND ; ST. LEWIS INLET. 113 The navigatior becomes intricate immediately above this island, but it is nevertheless f ossible to take a vessel, not drawing over 18 feet, 5\ miles farther up, whc -e the navigation for vessels is terminated by a flat of sand and boulders, r early dry at low water, and extending across the inlet off the mouth cf the St. Lewis river. A mile below Black Fly island, the inlet is only a third of a mile wide, and it contracts again to the same breadth immediately above the island. Farther up it expands to more than a mile wide, and in this wide space, 1| miles above Black Fly island, lies Wood island, which is nearly a mile long and 3 cables broad. This island is also surrounded with boulder stones, leaving a very narrow 2 fathoms channel between it and the main to the south-west, but the channel to the north-eastward of the island is rather wider, and has from 3 to 14 fathoms water in it. This island is thickly wooded, and so are the shores on either side, with spruce and birch, which supply timber large enough for building schoorers and boats. The trees increase in quantity and size from tn*^ entrance to the head of the inlet, where the climate is quite different fiu. ^ what it is on the coast, where the sea is often at the freezing point, and vu ^ temperature of the air not much higher at times, even in the warmest summer months. At the head of the inlet the weather was found inconveniently warm, with westerly winds, and the musquitoos and black flies innumerable. The Newfoundland people obtain the wood necessary for their stages, &c., from this inlet, nnd sometimes build their shallops and boats there. The scenery is beautiful, the granitic hills rising occasionally, on eith<^r side of the inlet, to the height of 700 or 800 feet above the sea. Theie are high clay cliffs at the mouth of St. Lewis river, at the head of the inlet. There was not water enough for the boats of the Gulnare over the flats of sand and boulders at the entrance of this river, and it was not in consequence examined. The water, however, was still quite salt off its mouth, so that it is probably, as the fishermen say, but a small stream. There was a great salmon fishery carried on here several years ago, but it is said to have completely failed. ZB&AV98 are a group lying at the entrance of St. Lewis inlet, and consist of Kalmia island, Pocklington island, and the Seal isles. The former and westernmost is separated from Telegraph point by a deep and clear channel, 4 cables wide ; and from Pock- lington island, to the eastward, by an unnavigable channel of the same breadth, but full of rocks above water. Both these islands are of bare granite, 150 feet in height, and they &re each about 3 miles in circumference. Around, and off the east end of Pocklington island, there are several small and bare islets, the two easternmost of [ax. L.]— VOL. 1. B 114 LABRADOR COAST ; CAPE 8T. LBWI8 TO GRAND POINT, [ciuf. ti. which are tho Seal isles ; and there ia also a small sunken rock, on which the sea usually breaks, bearing S. by W. from the east end of Focklington island, and at the distance of a quarter of a mile from its south-east ex- treme. To the westward of the Biver islands, and between them and the main, it is possible to anchor, but tho depth of water is very great, ex- ceeding 30 fathoms, over mud bottom, excepting very close to the islands ; and, as a considerable swell often rolls in at times, the riding is insecure. ^,:. , . » :• '^ t j loum, at tho head of a bay of the main, one mile deep, is on the south side of Telegraph point, and West about three quarters of a mile from the west side of Kalmia island. It is small, with 3 fathoms water, and only fit for small vessels. Farther out in this bay there is more room, and greater depth of water, but the riding is rendered unsafe by the easterly swell which rolls in at times round the islands. ovmnt HABBOvm is another bay of the main, 1^ miles deep, with two small islets, and several rocks in it. Only 2 fathoms can bo carried in between these islets and the south side of the bay ; it is therefore only fit for small vessels. This bay is 1} miles to the south of Telegraph point, and one mile West from the west end of Focklington island. ' '' " iAT, about 1^ miles to the southward of Cutter harbour, is exposed to the easterly swell, and consequently of no use to vessels. From this bay the mainland extends to the eastward, forming a high point, called Cape Club, which has a reef off it 70 fathoms to the eastwu-d, and bears S. ^ W. 1^ miles from the east end of Focklington island. There is no danger in the channel between this cape and Focklington island, excepting the sunken rock to the southward of the east end of that island, which has been already mentioned. ,., , >:. , ,.u<^ . - »»&a BOOKS. — Cape Club bears from the North Battle island N.W. ^ W. 4J miles ; and the South Middle rocks (one large rock, with three smaller ones near, and to the south-east of it) lie in the same line of bearing 1^ miles from Cape Club, 2^ miles from the North Battle island, nearly a mile south-west from the North Middle rocks, and North a mile from Cape Surf, the north-west extreme of Great Caribou island. There are clear channels on all sides of, and between the North and South Middle rocks ; but they should not be approached nearer than 2 cables' lengths by strangers, excepting in fine weather, when shoals can be seen. -Between Cape Club and the Battle islands, the aouth side of St. Lewis sound is formed by large islands. Muddle island is the most to the north-west of these, and Muddle channel, between CHAP. TT.] 8t. LEWIS sound; muddle harboub.''*^ 115 island ik, with line of island, a mile There Middle lengths it and the main to the northward, leads into St. Charles river. The en- trance to this channel is South 1^ miles from Cape Club, and the course and distance to it, from the north extreme of the North Battle island, is W.N.W. 3| miles. Muddle channel is 2 J cables wide in the narrowest part, and is free from danger, excepting some rocks, which will be seen on the Muddle island side, and which extend nearly a cable's length from the shore, both at the north-east and north-west points of that island. The mainland side should therefore bo kept aboard, with a good look out, for the channel has not been very carefully examined. The course and distance through it, from the sound to the mouth of St. Charles river, where there is roomy and landlocked anchorage, is W. by N. 1 mile. Surf island and Size island lie to the south-east and south respectively of Muddle island, and between it and Great and Little Caribou. MVDBZiB BASBOVS, which is between the three first named of those islands, is half a mile long, 360 yards wide, and quite land-locked, with from 4 to 12 fathoms water over mud bottom. There are huts, and stashes for fishermen on its shores. This snug little harbour may be approached either from the eastward, or from St, Charles channel ; but the entrance on that side is very narrow, and has only 3 fathoms water in it. lOTZOVS. — To enter Muddle harbour from St. Lewis sound, steer W. by N. ^ N. from the North Battle island, and a run of 2 miles will lead to Surf cape, the north-west extreme of Great Caribou. Haul round this bold headland to the south-west, as close as is requisite, and steer from it S.W. by W. a mile, when the vessel will be in the Narrows of Caribou channel, which are there only 2 cables wide, between the south-^ east end of Surf island and the west extreme of Great Caribou. Alter course now to the north-west, so as to pass between Surf island and Size island, keeping at first nearer to the former than the latter, and afterwards in mid channel. A run of about two-thirds of a mile on this course will place the vessel in the entrance of the harbour, and she may haul in to the westward and anchor anywhere. On arriving in the Narrows of Caribou channel, should the wind be unfavourable for proceeding to Muddle harbour, or should it be preferred, a vessel may haul round the west extreme of Great Caribou to the south- east, and anchor between it and Little Caribou island in the mouth of Pond bay on the west side of Great Caribou, where she will find 4 or 5 fathoms over sand bottom, and lie quite sheltered from all winds. Water may be had from ponds at this anchorage, but for firewood the boats must be sent up St. Charles river. There is an entrance to Caribou channel b2 it 1 16 LABRADOR CO AIT ; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [ohaf. ti. between Size island and Little Caribou, but it hM not been pftrticuUrly examined ; and tlio southern entrance to it, between Great and Little Caribou, is shoal, as not more than 2 fathoms can be carried through ; so that both these channels loading in from St. Charles channel are fit only for small vessels. form the south point of St. Lewis sound. The south-east Battle island is the easternmost land on this part of the coast, showing as the extreme both iVom the south-wcHt and north-cast. Although named as one, it is composed of two high islands close together, which lie by themselves, about a mile to the southward of the rest of the islands of the same name ; and are about three-quarters of u mile long, by less than half a mile wide. The North Battle island will bo readily known, not only from being the northernmost of these islands, but also from its being of high and black precipitous rocks unlike any of the rest. It is nearly round, and about a third of a mile in diameter. Several •mailer islands included in the name Battle islands lie between those two, and close off the 'east end of Great Caribou island, the largest of them being called Signal island. are two ridges of rocks, each about 2 cables in diameter, on which the sea always breaks. They are about half a mile apart, and bear nearly North and South from each other. The southern reef lies N.E. ^ E., three-quarters of a mile from Middle Battle island, and the other East 1^ miles from North Battle island. There are several other sunken rocks between the Ribbs and those islands, so that strangers should not attempt to run through, but to pass outside, or to the eastward of the Ribbs, on their way to and from the sound. kTT&a aASBOVBt between the Battle islands and the cast end of Great Caribou, is only fit for small vessels, being about 60 yards wide iu the entrance, about 150 yards wide within, about half a mile long, and with 4 to 6 fathoms water in it, over mud bottom. It is generally crowded with the vessels and boats of the fishermen, which moor to the rocks on either side ; and the shorc3 are covered with their houses and stages. There is a good house and store on Signal island, with a high flagstaff which can be readily seen at sea, and from which the island derives its name. The southern entrance is only fit for boats. Vessels must therefore approach this harbour from the northward, passing to the westward of the North Battle, and the other islands lyingbetween it and Signal island, which will be distinguished by the high flagstaff already mentioned. In running to the southward, close past the North Battle island, two small and round n. OBAT. n.] ST. LEWIS SOUND. — BATTLE HARBOUR. 117 itletii, alx>ut hiilf a cnblo in diameter, will be seen, tho Houthernmoiit of tbem being in thu enliAnco of tho hnrbour. TliOHe arc all that arc in tho way running in, and they arc quite bold, and may bo closely panued on either Hide. They boar South fiom tho wcht Hide of tho North Battle island, at tho distancoH uf about hall' and three-quarterB of a mile reBpcctively. Tljc. • aro two covch, with huts and stagi'H of tho fisher- men, in Great Caribou, juHt to tho wcatwui'd of Battlo harbour, but these cannot bo mistaken for the latter after the description which has been given. Battlo harbour is said to bo sccuro during tho summer months ; but in tho fall of tho year, what is termed tho undertow by tho fishermen, namely, a heavy ground swell, is said to roll in between tho islands, damaging tho vessels and fish stagoH, and consequently rendering the harbour unsafe. A very heavy sea at times rolls in from tho eastward into St. Lewis sound, oven as far up as tho entrance of tho inlet, round tho River islands, and up tho bays of tho main to tho westward of them. Perhaps there is not anything more grand and wildly beautiful than this tremendous swell, which often comes in without wind, rolling slowly but irresistibly in from tho sea, as if moved by some unseen power; rearing itself up like a wall of water, as it approaches tho craggy sides of the islands, moving on faster and faster as it ncars tho shores, until at last it bursts with fury over islets 30 feet high, or sends up sheets of foam and spray sparkling in the sun-beams 50 feet up the sides of tho preci- pices. Tho roar of tho surf in a calm night can bo compared to nothing less than the fulls of Niagara. This high and long rolling sea was, how- ever, far lens dangerous to tho boats of tho Gulnare, and impeded them less, than the high short breaking sea of tho Gulf. It was an annoyance by preventing a landing, but in other respects it was of use by discovering shoals ; for when it was running there was nothing with less than 4 fathoms upon it, which had not a breaker upon it. Boats should, how- ever, bo on their guard at such times, for on some of these shoals tho sea does not break constantly, but only now and then, when tho sea suddenly tops, and bursts in a sheet of foam, which would swamp any boat that might bo over the spot at the time. vr OAmiBOV is tho largest island on this part of the coast, being about 9 miles in circumference. Its south-east side is broken into deep coves, open to seaward ; and there are several small islets and rocks along it, but only one that is sunken, called Foam rock, which always shows when there is a sea running, and lies 260 yards outside of a small islet, tho next south-west of Middle Battle island. This rock is the only danger in the channel between the South-east Battle island and the Great Cariboa. ! :7" 118 LABRADOR COAST; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [cbap. ti. ■T. ORASXias isijurn. — Cape St. Charles bears S.W. by W., 4§ miles from the Middle Battle island, and it will be readily known by St. Charles hill, which is round, 654 feet above the sea, bears N.W. by W., nearly a mile from the cape, and is the highest land on this part of the coast ; also by St. Charles island, which is high, half a mile long, and lies .off the cape a long mile to the S.E. byE. This island has several large rocks close off its iuner side, or towards the mainland; the Wall shoal with 3 fathoms water on it lies North half a mile from its northern shore, and must be carefully avoided, as in bad weather it breaks heavily at times. Low island lies outside St. Charles island, 6 cables to the S.E., and is bold of approach; a rock has been reported to lie a mile to the S.S.W. ^ W. of it. The Pye rock, with 3 fathoms on it, which was incorrectly reported to lie off Low island, has been examined and found to lie W.S.W. 4 cables from the south-west point of St. Charles island. .ri ST. CKAS&as BASBOim is formed by three islands, which lie along the eastern side of Cape St. Charles. The space in which vessels can anchor is about 6 cables long, by about a quarter of a mile wide ; and the depth of water from 5 to 12 fathoms, over mud bottom. Some sea rolls in with a south-east wind, on which account it is not considered a very secure harbour for large vessels, except in the finest months of summer. Small vessels might be quite secured by making fast to the rocks between Fishflake island and the main in 9 or 10 feet water. There are houses and stages of the fiwhermen both on the islands and the main. Fishflake island is the south-easternmost island ; and the western entrance to the harbour, between it and the main, is so shallow and narrow, as to be only fit for boats. Blackhill island, the next to the north-west, will be readily distinguished, being high, black, and precipitous, unlike any other near. Between this island and Fishflake island is the entrance to the harbour, a cable wide, and with deep water close to the shores on either side. The channel between Blackhill and Spare island, which is the next to the north-west and the only remaining island, is 2 cables wide, only 2 or 3 fathoms water in it, and rendered intricate by rocks. The channel out of the harbour to the north-west, between Spare island and the main, is narrow, shallow, and only fit for boats. BZSBOTXOWB. — To make and enter St. Charles harbour, observe that Fishflake island lies close to the east side of Cape St. Charles, and extends farther out to seaward, so as to appear like the south-east extreme of that cape. The south-east extreme of this island forms the south-west point of entrance to St. Charles channel, and bears E. by S. nearly 1^ miles from the summit of St. Charles hill, and N.W. ^ N. one mile from tiie OBXP. TI.] ST. CHARLES HARBOUR AND CHANNEL. 119 north-east extreme of St. Charles island. Run in for the north-east side of Fishilake island, so as to pass its south-east extreme at the distance of about 1^ cables' lengths, steering N.W. by W., which will lead clear of Wall shoal and through the entrance between Fishflake and Blackhill islands, into the harbour. There is nothing in the way. Three small rocks above water will be seen close off the inner or north-west point of Fishflake, but they are quite bold, as are the shores on either side. The best anchorage is off the mouth of a small bay of the main, in which a wharf and flag- staff, at the principal Ashing establishment will be seen. The bearings and distances which have been given, together with the very remarkable Blackhill island, will sufficiently point out the position of this harbour to ' strangers. It is very easy of access and egress : water may be obtained there from the mainland, and wood from St. Charles bay. St. CBAK&BB CBAxnrB&, between the mainland on the south-west and Great and Little Caribou, Size and Muddle islands on the north-east, is from half to three quarters of a mile wide, with deep water (exceeding 40 fathoms in some places), and no detached shoals. The course and distance up the centre of this fine chani el, from its entrance to the Narrows, between White Bear point and Size island, is N.W. -J N. ?'^ miles. • Immediately outside the Narrows, on the mainland side, is White Bear bay, running in IJ miles W.N.W., affording no shelter, and full of rocks. Just within the Narrows lies Otter island, small, with rocks and shoal water extending 1^ cables from its south-east end. There is no , channel for ships between it and the main ; but to the eastward of it, that is, between it and Size island, the channel is a quarter of a mil© wide, and has from 14 to 18 fathoms water in it. ■ ^ <■' A run of half a mile on a North course will lead through the Narrows, \ into the channel between Muddle island and the main, which is 6 cablies . wide, with a depth of more than 20 fathoms in it, and free from all danger, excepting those which extend a cable from the shore on either side of the bay between Size and Muddle islands. The course through this channel to the mouth of St. Charles river is N.N.W. 1^ miles, and a vessel may either run up that bay to the westward, or through Muddle channel, eastward, into St. Lewis sound. Throughout all this extensive and landlocked space there is anchorage, but usually in depths exceeding - 20 fathoms, over mud bottom. ,.- , ^•^/'^mut .; ■t. OBAB&BB BZVBB runs East, and is nearly a mile broad ; but about 2 miles from its mouth the channel becomes narrow and intricate, though navigable for vessels for 1^ miles farther ; above which point there are only 6 feet water, in a narrow channel with many rooks. Wood and water may be had in plenty up this inlet. , . .... ; . ^ V;., ■I I ; u; 1 20 LABRADOR COAST ; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [obap. ti. TO ■ouiTB runs in 6 miles to the north-west, with deep water, often exceeding 30 fathoms, and free from detached dangers. Its entrance is between Cape St. Charles and the Camp islands, and at the distance of 2^ miles within it will be seen Niger island, high, about 2^ miles in circumference, and nearer to the northern than to the southern side of the sound. Smooth island, very much smaller and lower, lies 3 cables to the southward of Niger island, and has shoal water off it, a cable to the north-west and north. The channel between these islands is unsafe but to the northward and southward of both islands the channels are free from all danger. Good anchorage will be found in Horn bay, at the head of the sound ; and also in Islet bay, to the northward of Niger inland. Wood and water may be had in abundance. No directions are necessary, since there are no dangers, and the high and steep shores are everywhere quite bold. There are, here and there, rocks off the points, but they all show and are close to the shores. CAMP Z8&AHD, nearly round, about 300 feet high, and three quarters of a mile in diameter, lies close off the south-west point of Niger sound, so as to leave only a boat channel (called Chimney Tickle) between, where there are fishing huts and stages ; as there are also in a small cove of the main half a mile to the westward, where the anchorage is good, and frequented by many vessels during the fishing season. ,. OVTSB CAMP zsKAirsB, nearly 1^ miles long north-west and south- east, and three quarters of a mile broad, are not quite so high, and are also of bare granite. They are several islands, close together, and there is a small cove on their west side, where small fishing schooners moor to the rocks, with very indifferent shelter from south-west winds. There is excellent shelter for the boats of the fishermen, whose huts and stages will be seen on the shores. The channel between the Outer and Inner Camp islands is 2 cables wide, and free from danger. There are three small islets in the bay next westward of these islands. Off the outermost of these islets there is a rock awash, lying 1§ cables to the south-east. TAJB&B KBAB, which bears S.W. by W. ^ W. 5 miles from the south- east extreme of the Camp islands, is very remarkable, being an isolated mass of basaltic columns upon sandstone (fiat at top, and precipitous all round), the summit of which is 200 feet above the sea. Truck island lies close to the east side of this point, affording no shelter ; and Wliite Mica cove, one mile farther to the north-east, is only fit for boats. St. paxn zsftAarns arc a scattered cluster of small and low islets, with many rocks above and under water between them. They are clifiy and black, being for the most part composeil oi basalt and amygda- CHAP. TI.] ' NIGER SOUND. — ST. PETER BAT. 121 loid. The eapsternmost of them have been called the Peterel isles, because those birds breed upon them. The shoal water does not extend off any of these islands to seaward beyond the distance of 2 cables' lengths. The easternmost of them lies l^ milud to the southward, and the south- westernmost islet of the St. Peter group 3 miles S.W. -J W. from Table head. St. VBxaR BAT is within these islets, and on the west side of Table head. It is completely open to the south-east, but the islets and reefs break off most of the sea. Peter point, its south-west extreme, bears N. by W. ^ W. 2 miles from the south- westernmost St. Peter island. The bay is 2 miles deep, in a N.N.W. direction, and there is anchorage three quarters of a mile from its head, in from 13 to 20 fathoms, sand bottom, but there is not more than 6 or 7 fathoms in the entrance between Peter point and the innermost islet. This entrance is three quarters of a mile wide, but has a Two-fathoms shoal in it, nearly 2 cables' lengths off to the westward of the islet ; and there is also a reef off Peter point, 1-| cables to the south-cast. The passage in between these dangers is about 4 cables wide, and must be approached from the southward, passing to the westward of all the St. Peter islands, and giving them a berth of not less than a quarter of a mile. The anchorage in this bay is however very indifferent, although it may be useful in case of necessity. Both wood and water may be obtained there. The hills at the head of the bay are 700 feet high, and extend from in rear of Peter point westward to Chateau bay. SAxrs'WiCB BBAB. — Chateau point, the south-west extreme of Castle island, bears W. ^ S. 6^ miles, from the south-westernmost St. Peter island. Nearly half way between them is Sandwich head and cove, the latter useful only to boats. Between Sandwich point and Seal point, the east point of Chateau bay, is Bad bay, which is rocky and dangerous, affording no shelter to vessels. BBsrvT 8BOA& and CASTZiB KBBOB are two 3 -fathom patches, on which the sea often breaks. The former lies South, and is distant 8 cables from Seal island ; Castle ledge lies off the cast end of Castle island, at 1^ cables to the southward. OBATBAV BAT * wiU be easily recognized from a vessel off the coast by its position with reference to the remarkable Table head, and the St. Peter islands ; by the high land in rear of it ; and by there being a straight and unbroken coast, free from islands, to the westward of it ; but more especially by the two wall-sided and flat-topped hills, composed of 1 -'.ir. * See Plan of Chateao Bay, No. 1,151 ; icaltb m ss 2 iacbei. WtM. 1 22 LABRADOR COAST ; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [ohaf. ti. basaltic columns, which cap the summits of Castle and Henley islands, and are 200 feet in height above the sea. This bay has within it Henley, Antelope, and Pitts harbours ; the two last of which are quite secure, and fit for the largest ships. Castle and Henley islands shelter these harbours from the southward and eastward ; as do Whale island and York point from the southward and westward. Castle is the outermost island, and Chateau point, its south-west extreme, forms the extreme point of land on this part of the coast. There is a narrow channel between Castle and Henley islands, and also between the latter and the main, leading into Henley and Antelope harbours from the eastward ; but they are only fit for small vessels. The main entrance to Chateau bay is between Chateau and York points, the latter bearing from the former W. by N. If miles. Within this entrance, at the distance of 1^ miles to the northward, lies Whale island in the entrance of Temple bay. The scenery in Chateau bay is magnificent and beautiful. Pitts hill, on the west side of Pitts harbour, is 586 feet above the sea ; and there is another hill, the Beacon hill, to the northward of it, 725 feet high. But the highest land is a ridge in rear of or to the north-west of York point, ithe summit of which, called the High Beacon, is elevated 959 feet above the sea at high water. York point is quite bold, and so is Chateau point to the westward, but has shoal water half a cable's length off it to the S.E. runs in between high granitic hills rather more than 4^ miles in a N. by W. direction, with very deep water, and no good . anchorage. Nevertheless, small fishing-vescels moor on the west side, just within Temple pass, where, as also on the north-west side of Whale island, there are huts and stages of the fishermen. Temple pass, the southern entrance to Temple bay, is only 160 yards wide and 4 fathoms water in it ; it bears N.N.E. ^ E. 1^ miles from York point. The other entrance, called Whale gut, is between Whale island and the point of the main which separates Pitts harbour from Temple bay ; it is 2 cables wide, but shoals on either side contract the navigable channel to 100 yards, with a depth of 4 fathoms. With these remarks, we shall dismiss Temple bay, only adding that exactly half way between York point and Temple pass, and about half a cable's length to the eastward of the line from the one to the other, there is a small ledge with 3 fathoms least water. BBirZiBT BARBOtnt is Only fit for small vessels, and is frequented by the fishermen who have their huts and stages there. It is formed by Stage island, which is low, and close to the westward of the basalt columns on Henley island. Vessels may enter this harbour either from the eastward through the narrow channel between Castle and Henley islands ; or from ' the south-westward, along the inner or north-west side of Castle island. OBAP. VI.] CHATEAU BAY; ANTELOPE HARBOUR. 123 The harbour is only about a quarter of a mile long and a cable wide, and carries a depth of from 4 to 6 fathoms ; some swell rolls in with south- west winds. The only navigable entrance to the harbour faces the south, in which direction are the basalt columns of Castle island. Airxa&ovB BAUOVS is on the east side of Chateau bay, to the northward of Henley island, and between the latter and Barrier point, which, with its reef, separates it from Pitts harbour to the northward. The passage leading into both these harbours is between Stage and Henley islands to the eastward, and to the westward Whale and Flat islands ; the latter being very small, and nearly joined to the former. BntBOTXOirs. — In running into Antelope harbour, the following are the dangers to be avoided. The shoal water extends 1-^ cables off to the westward of Stage island, and a cable off to the eastward of the south-east extreme of Whale and Flat islands. Besides these, there are three small ledges to be avoided, which are extremely dangerous to strangers unless the weather be clear, when they can be plainly seen from the rigging or fore yard of a ship. The First and outermost of these ledges, with 2 fathoms least water, lies exactly in the line from the west extreme of Chateau point to the east extreme of Whale island ; and with the south extreme of the Seal islands seen through the narrow channel between Castle and Henley islands bearing E. -J N. The Second ledge, with 3 fathoms least water, lies in the line from the south extreme of Flat island to the south extreme of the basalt columns on Henley island, and is distant 320 yards from the east side of Flat island. The Third ledge has only 9 feet least water, and lies between the east extreme of Whale island and Black point, which is the north-west extreme of Henley island. The Black rock lies half a cable's length off Black point, and is small and low, but always above water. There is no passage for vessels between this rock and the point ; but the channel to the westward of the rock, and between it and the ledge last mentioned, is 240 yards wide, and has from 6 to 9 fathoms water in it. There is also a channel equally wide, and nearly as deep, between the ledge and the shoal water off the east extreme of Whale island, but the former is the preferable channel, because the Black rock, being quite bold, serves as an excellent guide. In steering for the harbour, observe that Grenville point, on the north side of Ante'ope harbour, and about a third of a mile to the south-east of Barrier point, is of steep black rock, like Black point, and these two points in one form the leading mark for running in. Being then between Chateau and York points, bring these points in one, bearing N.E. Then run in upon that leading mark, looking out for the First ledge, and passing half a cable to the westward of it, and about 6 cables from Chateau point. .': 1 124 LABRADOR COAST ; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [chaf. n. This course continued half a mile farther, will lead between Flat and Stage islands, and 1^ cables to the eastward of the Second ledge, off the east side of Flat island. From this position the Black rock will be easily seen, and a vessel must haul a little to the northward, but not more than will be sufficient to pass close to the westward of it, and then round it to the eastward into the harbour. The best position to anchor in is midway between Grenville point and the northern shore of Ilenlcy island, where the harbour is 3 cables' wide, and the depth of water from 11 to 14 fathoms, over mud bottom. The vessel will then be in the line from Grenville point to the basaltic columns, and more than 2 cables distant from the small island in the narrow channel out to the eastward, between Henley island and the main ; she should bo well moored, for the gusts from the westward, through Whale gut, and also from the south-west, are at times very strong. yiTTB BABBOVB is superior to Antelope harbour, being more roomy, and better sheltered. It is full a mile long, north and south, from Barrier reef to its head, and from half to three quarters of a mile wide. The depth of water is 18 fathoms in the centre, decreasing gradually to 4 fathoms close to the shores on either side. The bottom is of mud. SimBCTZOirs. — ^Vessels intending to proceed to Pitts harbour should proceed, as before directed, as far as the Black rock ; only that they need not pass so close to the rock, but may safely go as much as half a cable's length to the westward of it. As soon as the rock bears East, steer N.W. by N., or keep the south-west extreme of the basaltic columns of Henley island open to the westward of Black point, and it will clear the Barrier reef, leaving it to the eastward. Continue to run with leading mark on until the east extreme of Whale island, and the west extreme of Chateau point, in Castle island, come in one, bearing S. by W. Then steer N. by E., or so as to run up the harbour with the last named leading marks on, and the vessel will clear the shoal water extending about 120 yards off Pitts point, and may anchor anywhere, this fine harbour being capacious enough for a large fleet, and quite sheltered from all winds. Water may be had from a stream at the head of the harbour, and wood is also plentiful. Under certain circumstances, such as scant westerly wind, it might be desirable to pass between the Third ledge and Whrle i.^iand, instead of between that ledge and the Black rock. In that case proceed as before until the vessel arrives between Flat and Stage islands, and is abreast of the Second ledge. Then alter course to N. by W., taking care not to approach the east side of Whale island nearer than 1^ cables, or by the OSUP. vl] ,1-1 \^- BELLE-ISLE. 125 lead than 4 fathoms. Be also careful not to go too far o£f to the east- ward, for fear of the Third ledge, the position of which has been pointed out. As soon, therefore, as the passage into Temple bay, through Whale gut, begins to open, haul to the westward until the leading marks (east extreme of Whale island, and west extreme of Chateau point, in Castle island) come on, then run into the harbour on these marks as before. BB&XB-iB&a,* lying off the coast just noticed, and directly off the Atlantic entrance of the Strait of Belle-isle, is usually frequented by our own and American fishermen. It is about 9^ miles long in an E.N.E. direction and 3 miles wide, including Lark islet close to its north side. It is composed of a range of hills, bare of trees, and which rise to the height of 700 feet above the sea. These hills are principally of granite, alter- nating with clay and slate, and their steep sides dip into the sea in every part, excepting at the north-east end of the island, where two low points converge so as to form a narrow creek, named Blackjoke cove, which shelters very small fishing vessels during the finest months of summer. Shelter may also be obtained in Lark harbour, under Lark islet, and in Valley cove at 2J miles west of the islet ; but none of these coves are considered safe early in the spring, or late in the autumn, because of the heavy swell which rolls into them from the eastward. The anchorage called Lark harbour, between Lark islet and the island, is only 2 cables wide, with deep water, indifferent holding ground, and much exposed to easterly winds, but it having the advantage of two entrances, vessels are allowed a speedy and safe passage to sea. Blackjoke cove, at the east end of the island, is not more than 150 feet wide, with 12 feet water. It is formed inside an islet joined to the island at low tide, and will only afford secure shelter to one or two small vessels moored head and stern ; but in heavy gales from the eastward, especially at high-w t^er springs, the breaking seas dash with such violence over the ledge of rocks, and make it so unsafe, that the New- foundland Government granted 300/. for the construction of a break- water, which was completed in the summer of 1858, but it being of insufiicient weight and strength, the whole of the material was swept into the cove. In "Valley cove, at 2J miles west of Lark islet, vessels may find fair anchorage and shelter during easterly winds. The bottom is sand, and in the line of the points the soundings are 17 fathoms, decreasing gradually to the shore. * Thii island wai ■nrreyed by Commander J. Orlebar, B.N., during the year 1859. h- J ''¥ „.4-i«**r ;■ 126 LABRADOR COAST ; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, ioiur. ti. >.»vThe south side of Belle>isle affords nu anchorage, and there is hardly a creek where a boat might be saved. The bottom around the island is, on the north side sand and rock, but . on the south always rock. The water is deepest on the south side ; at the distance of 2 miles the depth is 60 fathoms, and the same depth, rock, at only 1^ miles from the North-east ledge. • ' • *^ • The south-west extreme of Belle-isle bears S.E. | S. 19 miles from York point, and N.E. ^ N. nearly 14 miles from Cape Bauld, in Quirpon island, at the north-east extreme of Newfoundland. Between Belle 'isle and Cape Bauld, the deepest water is 50 fathoms, which is found near the island, but there is a middle bank of rock, sand, and shells of 30 fathoms. In the direction of Cape Norman the soundings are comparatively shoal, from 22 to 30 fathoms, sand and shells. The narrowest part of the channel between Belle-isle and the coast of Labrador, is between Lark islet and the St. Peter islands, which are distant from each other nearly 12 miles; the depth increases gradually from either shore until it reaches 90 fathoms, mud. There is suid to be a small rocky bank, with 5 fathoms least water, about 3'j^ miles N. by E. from the north-east end of Loi'k islet. . &IOKT. — The lighthouse erected on the south-west point of Belle-isle is a circular stone tower, 62 feet high, faced with white fire brick. It exhibits, at an elevation of 470 feet above the sea, a ^ed white light of the first order, which is visible in clear weather from a distance of 28 miles. It is lighted from sunset to sunrise from the 1st of April to the 15th of December of each year. A gun is fired from the lighthouse during a fog.* ■TBAZT Of mMMOM-imtM. — The breadth of the channels on either side of Belle-isle has just been mentioned. The entrance of the Strait of Belle-isle, between York point and Cape Bauld, is 26 miles wide ; the latter point bearing from the former S. by E. At Cape Norman, 18 miles to the westward of Cape Bauld, the opposite coast of Labrador is distant only 14 miles ; but the narrowest part of the Strait is at Amour point, in Forteau bay, where it is only 9^ miles wide. The western entrance of the Strait, between Greenly island and FeroUe point, is nearly 21 miles wide ; the point bearing from the island S.S.W. The course and distance through * Commander Orlebar remarks, " that the height of this light above the sea is a seriooa defect, for it is often obscured by land-fog, when lower down the horizon is clear. Blackjoke cove being so near the east point of the island is always easy of access, and the point itself being of moderate height and extensive range of view, makes it a far more nieiUl position for a light than the higa sooth-east point" OUAP. Ti.] 8TBAIT OF BELLE-I8LE ; TIDES ; CURRENTS. 127 the Strait is S. £4° W. (true), or according to the mean variation, West 65 miles. The Newfoundland side of the Strait is now b^^ng surveyed by Com- mander Orlebar, R.N. Captain Bayfield, R.N., ob&v ed at Cape Norman^ Green island, and FeroUe point, and the coast has been laid down by his observations. The old survey by Captain Cook, although only ex- hibiting a rude resemblance of the shores, was so generally faithful in pointing out the position of dangers as to be very useful. It is a low coast of limestone, partially wooded with spruce trees, and having no good anchorages for large ships, unless it be in St. Margaret bay : for the other harbours, such as Old FeroUe, St. Genevieve, &c., are too small, or too narrow and intricate in their entrances, for vessels to run for shelter to in bad weather. There are dangerous ledges off this side of the Strait between Green island and FeroUe, which render it desirable to avoid it at night or in thick weather. The opposite coast is much more free from danger, and besides has several good roadsteads. It is composed of steep granitic shores from York point westward to Cape Diable, where sand- stone commences and continues to Grand point, at the western entrance of the Strait, lying on the granite, and occasionally forming magnificent cliffs several hundred feet in height. Tbe aouvBiwoa in the Strait are not so irregular but that they will afford assistance to a vessel at night, or during the fogs which so frequently prevail. The deepest water is on the Labrador side, as, for instance from York point to Red bay, where, however, it is interrupted by the shallow water off Wreck bay. It is also very deep on that side, from Black bay to Forteau bay inclusive ; but the line of deep water is not direct, nor, we believe, continuous through the strait, and it is still more perplexing, that there is as deep water within 2 miles of the dangerous Flower ledge on the Newfoundland side, opposite Forteau bay, as in any part of the Strait. The depth of water varies in different parts from between 60 and 70 to 20 fathoms, and the nature of the bottom is as various as the depths, being sometimes of rock, and at others of sand, broken shells, pieces of coral, or gravel. TZ9SB and ovsmBirTB^ — ^Near the shores on either side of the Strait of Belle-isle there is usually a regular alternation of flood and ebb in fine weather, but it is not constant. The flood comes from the northward along the coast of Labrador, and also from the south-east, from Cape Bauld to Cape Norman. The latter stream, we have reason to believe, is often turned off to the northward by Cape Norman, and the same thing takes place at Green island, on the New- foundland side, towards Greenly island on the opposite side of the Strait. 1 ,1 I 1 28 LABRADOR COAST ; CAPE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [ouat. ti. There is moreover, at times, a stream running from the south-west for several days together, along the west coast of Nowfoun> Uand. This stream occasionally sets from Fcrollo point obliquely across the Strait towards Fortcau bay. Sometimes, and especially with north-cast winds, the current runs directly in an opposite direction along the west coast of Newfoundland from FeroUe point past Rich point. In short, there is no constancy either in the rate or sot of these streams, for the winds and the irregular tides modify the set and rate of the equally irregular currents, in a manner which it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to calculate upon with any degree of certainty. The prevalent current from the northward comes from between Belle-isle and the coast of Labrador. It is often at the temperature of tho freezing pointy bringing many icebergs into the fltrait, and frequently carrying them through it many miles up the Gulf (page 22). Some of these bergs ground in deep water, whilst others ai'e continually changing their positions. They are much more numerous in some seasons than in others ; 200 bergs and large pieces of ice were counted in the Strait in tho month of August in one yt (.r, whilst there were not above half-a-dozen to be seen in the some montii cf the following season. This current has been observed from the northward and eastward assisted by the north-cast wind, running full 2 miles an hour, whilst at other times it was almost insensible. It is even reported that there is sometimes a current in the opposite direction, and this report of the jBshermen is very probably correct, especially during the ebb '. ^de, and when south-west winds prevail in the Gulf. At the same time that ihio current is running to the westward, there is at times a stream of warmer water running out to the eastward on the Newfoundland side, especially during the ebb tide. WAVIOATZOW of tbe STmAiT In roos.— From these remarks it will plainly appear that the navigation of this Strait of Belle-isle is attended with great danger in dark or foggy nights, during which no vessel should attempt to run through ; for we found that, with all our experience, we could not be sure of the vessel's position within 10 miles under such circumstances. On the approach of a dark or foggy night, therefore, it would be prudent to anchor in some one of the bays on the north side of the Strait, rather than to continue under way. A vessel bound in to the Gulf, and running with an easterly wind, will however find no place fit for that purpose until she arrives at the indifferent anchorage of Black bay, for Red bay cannot be entered by a large vessel with an easterly wind. Loup bay is the first good anchorage under such circumstances, and there the vessel would be so far advanced in her run through tbe CBXT. 71.] STRAIT OF BELLE-ISLE ; FOQS | 129 Strait that it would not be worth wiiilo to stop, mee she ■ ^ht etuP'f clear everything in the remaining short distance. But with a s.riith-w* % wind, at the approach of night, and appearance of a fog, a vesHol Un 4 out through the Strait to the eastward had better stand off and on un r eosy sail, tacking by her deep-sea lead from the Newfoundland side IIU morning, if she bo not farther to the eastward than FeroUo point. If -the be farther advanced, she had bettor endeavour to make Forteau bay before dark, and anchor there for the night. In light winds or calms, during dark nights or foggy weather it is better to bring up with a stream anchor anywhere in the Strait than to drive about with the tides, without knowing whither, but then a look-out must be kept for drifting icebergs. The lights exhibited on the south-cast point of Belle-isle and Amour point, and from which fog-whistles are sounded or a gun fired in fogs and snow stoims, now greatly lessen the dangers of the navigation. Fogs occur with all southerly and easterly winds, and they are frequent likewise with the south-west wind ; it is only when the wind is from between the north and west, that clear weather can be safely reckoned upon. • vntmcit BAV.— Proceeding westward from York point, along the Labrador side of the Strait, the coast is straight and bold to Wreck bay, which has a small river at its head, affords no shelter, and bears W. ^ S., lOj miles from York point. rxva-rATBOMS VATon. — S. by W. 2^ miles from the east point of Wreck bay lies a small patch of rocky ground with 5 fathoms least water. On it the basaltic columns of Henley and Castle islands are just open to the southward of Yoi'k point ; and Barge noint, the next extreme to the westward, bears W. ^ S., distant 6 miles. The bottom can be plainly seen on this patch in fine weather ; there is a heavy swell upon it in easterly gales, and frequently a great rippling : icebergs often ground upon it. BASOB BAT, 4^ miles to the westward of Wreck bay, will be known by a water-fall at its head. It affords no anchorage. OXBBWXBK BAT, about 5^ miles W. by N. from Barge bay, is about 2 miles wide at entrance, narrower within, and about 2 miles deep in a northerly direction. Small vessels occasionally anchor in it ; but the ground is of sand, not very good for holding, and it is open to the wind and sea from the south-east. on, Z8XBT lies about 1^ miles W. by S. from Greenish point, the west point of Greenish bay. It is a small, low, and bare rock about a quarter of a [BT.L.] — VOL. I. I 180 LABRADOR COAST Tc APE ST. LEWIS TO GRAND POINT, [cuap.ti. mile off shore, and Us nouth oxtremo bears W. J N., 6J miles from Dargo point, the oxtremo of the land to the eastward. •WXKBSoa. Ni. ■rS ■ I- AMOVM BAmsoim.-— Stony point, which is low and green, and the Flat rocks which lie off it 1^ miles to S. by E., form the east side of the channel between them and Belles Amours point, leading northward 142 GULF OF 8T. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [« "av. tii. m to Belles Amours harbour, in which a groat number of vcHsels may lie quite land-locked ; and might oven winter there as securely as in a dock.* Nearly midway between Belles Amours point and the Flat rocks, lies a rocky patch with 13 feet least water. Between this patch and the point there are other patches with 3^ fathoms, which is as much water as can be counted on through the Western passage ; but on the side towards the Flat rocks (that is, through the Eiistern passage) there is from 6 to 17 fathoms of water, the soundings being extremely irregular and the ground foul. Harbour point is about 1^ miles within Belles Amours point, and on the west side, is a bare granite hill, about 150 feet high, with several beacons of stones upon it, which are erected upon almost every hill, and are said to be for the guidance of travellers in winter. The shore between these points is lined with large boulders, and encloses a large and shallow pond, the centre of which is within Pond point, which is nearly o])posite Stony point. The shoal water extends off, on this side, 1^ cables' lengths from the high water mark. The north-west side of Harbour point is of sand, extending (together with a flat which dries at low water) partly across the inner entrance of the harbour. Between this flat and the high and bold rocky shore to the northward, the narrowest part of the entrance of the harbour is a cable wide, with 6 fathoms water in it, over muddy bottom. North-eastward of Harbour point, and at the distance of about 160 yards, there is a small rock always above nater ; at a cable's length farther out in the J'amo direction lies another small rock, which dries only at low water. There is no passage for vessels of any size between theise rocks and Harbour point. The entrance is to the northward and westward round these rocks, and between them and the main land to the northward. The distance from Belles Amours point to the entrance is about 2 miles. On the east side of the entrance the shoal water and large stones extend from Stony point northward to the point of the North cove, which is only fit for boats. That side must therefore be avoided. ^Vater may be obtained in the north-west corner of Belles Amours har- bour, and also from a considerable stream at the head of the North cove, where there are a few trees ; but wood for fuel is very scarce on this coast. Bntacmovs. — To enter Belles Amours harbour by the Eastern passage, steer N. by W. ^ W. so as to pass a quarter of a mile to the westward of the Flat rocks, and Harbour point will be seen open to the * See Flaa of Belief Amoon Harbour, Middle Bay, Sic, No. 1,145 ; icale, m m.2 mehei* CHAP, rii.] BELLES AMOURS HARBOUR. — MIDDLE POINT. 143 westward of Stony point right ahead. Continue this course (taking care not to approach the west side of Stony point nearer than a long cable's length) until the oast side of Harbour point is approached as near as a cable's length. Then steer North till the sandy part of the point is opened out, or the vessel is abreast of the rock above water off it, when she must haul a little to the westward, so as to bring the east side of Harbour point and Pond point in one. Keep them in one, in order to round the north extreme of the Flat, and a depth of 4 fathoms will be carried until Mark point (the extreme on the north side within the har- bour) comes on with Peak point (a remarkable rocky point in Middle bay), seen over the low land at the head of the harbour, and bearing W. \ S. As soon as this mark comes on, haul sharp round to the west- ward, keeping at a less distance than a cable's length from the high north shore until the vessel is well within the sandy spit, when she may haul to the southward, and anchor anywhere, the bottom being of mud, and the depth from 5 to 7 fathoms. To enter by the Western passage, which is preferable with a westerly wind, approach Belles Amours point on a bearing nothing to the eastward of E.N.E., and take care not to shut in Stony point behind it, for fear of the Middle ledges. Pass Belles Amours point at the distance of 2 cables, and go no nearer the shore, on that side, until past Pond point ; then haul in gradually to within a cable's length of the east side of Harbour point, and proceed as before directed. As soon as the marks come on for hauling into the harbour to the westward, put the helm down and shoot the vessel in as far as she will go ; then let go the anchor, and warp in the remainder of the way. It is only with easterly and southerly winds that a vessel can sail in. The bottom is good for anchoring outside Harbour point, but not outside Stony point. miSB&ll vonrr, which has several rocks off it a cable's length to the west and south, lies W. | N. rather more than 1^ miles from Belles Amours point. The former is the south-west, and the latter the south- east extreme of the peninsula of low land separating Middle bay and Belles Amours harbour. MSBBXiB KBBOBB lie to the southward of Middle point. Several of these ledges dry at low water, but the outermost, which is 6 cables' lengths off shore, has 15 feet least water. There is no safe passage between these ledges and the shore. Stony point kept half a point open of Belles Amours point, bearing E.N.E., will lead clear outside of them. KBAOVBB ronrr, rather more than I^ miles W.N.W. from Middle point, is the south-west extreme of another low, but smaller 144 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [ci»^r. Tit. poninNuIn, nopnrnttng Five Longuc8 harbour from Middle bny. On tliiH poninHiilii, thri'O-qimrtorH of n niilti to tho N.K. of tlio uxtroinity of tlte point, tlioro iH a romnrkiililo iHolatod and prccipitoiiH hill noiirly 2U0 foi>l high, witich markH tho |M)8ition of Five LengucH hurbour from tho wcHtward. KBAOuaa and BAmBXBa saars. — Leagues Reef, oif Five Lcngues point, in partly almvo water, and extends a quarter of a mile to tho S.W., and tho two Barrier reofrt extend to tho distance of IJ mileH to tho west- ward of tho same point, but are not joined to it. Tho south extremes of Middle and Belles Amours points in line, bearing E. ^ S., leads a third of a mile to tho southward of tho Barrier reefs. ■AT is a fine open roadstead, free from all danger, more than a mile wide, and extending inland 2 miles to the N.E. by N. In the outei part of the bay, for the first mile in, tho shore, on either side, ahould not be approached nearer than 1^ cables' lengths, but further in it is quite bold, excepting in the heads of the coves. The depth of water in this bay is from 4 to 13 fathoms over sandy bottom. The Middle ledges and the Barrier reefs are tho only dangers in the way of vessels approaching Middle bay from the cast or west. Tho usual anchorage in Middle bay, in easterly winds, is outside of Isthmus cove, in 10 fathoms, sand bottom ; and ofi' West cove in westerly winds : and vessels shift from one to tho other as the wind changes. As there are no islands off this bay, and as it is sufiiciently roomy for the largest ships to beat in and out, it affords a very convenient occa- fiional stopping place for vessels. It is the only open roadstead on this coast. ^MTeat Cove is a mile within tho entrance on tho west side of Middle bay. Its head is separated by a low and swampy ipithmus from Five Leagues harbour. In the mouth of this cove, in 4 or fathoms, is the anchorage with westerly winds. ■baiiop coTe. — On the east side of Middle bay, three quarters of a mile within Middle point, is Shallop cove, sheltered by two or three small islets close to the shore. It is only fit for boats. About the same distance farther in, on he same side of Middle bay, is Peak point, high, and of granite. This point is forked — its south ex- tremity is a ragged, isolated mound or peak ; and off its west side, at the distance of half a cable, there is a large rock above water. btiimiu CoTef carrying 3 fathoms water over mud bottom, is to the south-east of Peak point, which is the north-west point of the cove. It is a very small place, in which two or three fishing vessels are occasionally moored, under a reef which extends from the south side of the cove north< ouF. ni.] MIPHLE DAY.— FIVE LEAGUES HARBOUR. 145 ward towards Peak point. Tito reef aflbrds indifibrcnt Hholtor with W.S.W. winds, which blow right in with a heavy eoa. Tho entrance between tho reef r.nd Peak point in only 140 yards wide ; neither is thcro much moro room between tho reef and tho shore to tho caHtward. To enter Isthmus cove, Peak point muHt bo kept close aboard ; and when tho vess'jl is half a cable's length past it to tho eastward, haul her sharp round to tho southward between tho rcof and tho shore. Tho part of tho cove, which runs in to tho north-east of Peak point, is quite shoal. From this covo to Belles Amours harbour, across tho low isthmus, tho distance is less than half a mile. iVater may bo obtained in Isthmus cove, as well as in the head of Middlo bay, whore there are a few small trees. TTva KBAOvas ■JUIBOVX hardly deserves tho namo. It is a covo half a mile deep, with 2^ fathoms water. It is situated three-quarters of a mile within, and on tho west sido of Five Leagues point, and is altogether unfit for any thing larger than a schooner of 100 tons at tho outside. A W.S.W. wind rolls in a considerable swell, and there would be no lying there, if it were not for tho indifferent shelter afforded by tho Barrier reefs off its mouth. The channels leading in are about 3 cables wide, and on either side of the Barrier reefs ; either from tho southward through tho Eastern entrance, between them and Five Leagues point ; or f'om the westward through the Western entrance, between them and the shore to the north war J. BntaoTXoiTB. — Tho course into Five Leagues harbour through tho Eastern entrance, is N.E. by N., passing a cable's length to tho westward of Five Leagues point and its reef. Two small rocks, which just cover at high water, lie off to tho westward of the South point of tho harbour, which is a rocky islet joined to tho shore when tho tide is out. The outermost of these rocks is distant 320 yards from tho point. Leave them both to tho north-east, passing between them and the west point of the harbour, which is distant from them 2 cables' lengths. As soon as tho vessel is past these rocks, tho harbour will open to tho eastward, and she must haul into it, passing midway between South point and a largo rock abovo water, distant from tho point 1^ cables to the north-west. Anchor in the middle, a cable's lennrth within the entrance ; for although there is water enough nearly to the head of tho covo, and tho anchorage is moro secure farther in, yet it becomes too narrow for a stranger, and would require the vessel to be moored head and stern. To enter Five Leagues harbour by the Western entrance, being to the westward of the Barrier reefs, stand in to the northward till the [ST. L.] — ^VOL. I. K 146 GULF OP ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap. tii. harbour is seen to open, bearing nothing to the northward of E. by N. Steer directly for it, and as soon as the vessel is within the westernmost of the Barrier reefs, two ledges will be seen just under water, and several small islets on the side of the mainland. The ledges will be near a quarter of a mile to the northward, or on the port hand, but the course will lead within a cable's length of Bis islet, which is by itself, quite bold, a quarter of a mile off shore, about a mile from the entrance of the hai-bour, and opposite the centre of the Barrier reefs. Pass the west point of the harbour as close as is requisite, continue the course right in, and anchor as before directed. There is also a channel a quarter of a mile wide between the two Barrier reefs, but they overlap in such a way as to make it difficult for a stranger. The two reefs cover an extent of 1^ miles in an E.N.E. direc- tion. There are parts of each of them that dry at low water, and the sea almost always breaks on them more or less. 8AUIIOV BAT. — Salmon islet bears W. by N. 3| miles from Five Leagues point, and lies close to the south-east extreme of Caribou island, off which the shoal water extends nearly 4 cables' lengths to the S.E. Caribou island is about 4 miles in circumference, and 220 feet high above the sea, but it cannot be distinguished from the mainland from a vessel off the coast. Between this island and the mainland to the eastward of it, is the eastern entrance to Salmon bay, a cable wide, but has a depth of only 6 feet in it at low water. The other entrance to this deep bay is from Bonne Esperance round to the northward of Caribou island.* There is plenty of water by this latter route, and also in the bay, which runs inland several miles to the north-east ; but as a vessel will be already in a harbour, before she arrives at the navigable entrance of this bay, we shall not swell this book by any farther remarks respecting it, but refer to the chart, which will enable any one to find his way through a channel so perfectly sheltered from the sea. There are two houses just within the eastern entrance of Salmon bay, on the mainland side. CAVTXOW. — An inspection of the chart will show that soundings in moderate depths of water extend sufficiently far off shore, everywhere between the Strait of Belle-isle and Salmon bay, to warn a vessel of her approach to the coast, at night, or in foggy weather. B8QVXIIKAVX xsXiAii'BS. — The mainland haa hitherto formed the coast line, but at Salmon bay the islands commence, and continue 14 miles. They are of all shapes, sizes, and heights (less than 200 feet), '-■''' * See Plan of Bonne Esperance Harbour, No. 1,138 ; scale, m— 1 inch. '" ' * OHAP.vn,] ESQUIMAUX ISLANDS. — BONNE ESPERANCE BAY. 147 and ran in order westward under the names of Esquimaux, Old Fort, and Dog islands. They are bare of trees, excepting some of those which are far in near the mainland. Off these islands lie many small rocks and ledges, the outermost of which are fully 4 miles from the mainland. To attempt to describe all these islands, or all the channels between them, would be an endless and useless task : and a good chart, upon a large scale, will, in most cases, be far more useful than any written description. We shall, however, notice briefly the principal dangers off the islands^ the principal channels, and especially Bonne Esperance, which is the beat harbour upon this coast. "WUAXmM xb&ajts, the south-easternmost of the Esquimaux islands, is the southernmost of all the islands ; and, in consequence, shows as the extreme to vessels close in with the coast, either to the eastward or west- ward. It is about three-quarters of a mile long, in a north-east and south- west direction, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It does not exceed 100 feet in height, in the highest part, which is a roundish hill near the centre of the island, on which there is a beacon, or pile of stones, supporting a pole of driftwood. All vessels bound to Bonne Esperance endeavour to make this island. Its south point bears N.W. by W. ^ W., 18^ miles from the south point of Greenly island, in the entrance of the Strait of Belle-isle. A vessel, sailing from one to the other, will have soundings in moderate depths the whole way, excepting for a cast or two off the mouth of Bonne Esperance harbour, within 3 miles of Whale island. There are rocks, both above and under water, extending 3 cables off the south-west point of Whale island ; but off its north-east point the shoal water reaches only to the distance of two-thirds of a cable. There is also a ledge with 9 feet water, lying W. ]f S. 3^ cables from its south-west point ; and there are several rocks, dry at low water, lying a cable off shore, on the east side of the same point. aoHxra ■sPSSAxrca BAsaoim. — From Salmon islet, noticed in page 146, the south point of Whale island beai's W. by S. ^ S. 4^ miles. Within this line lie the islands which form the harbour of Bonne Espe- rance. Being very steep, and of bare granite, the largest of these islands look much higher than they really are ; an effect which is also owing to the contrast of the much lower islands to the westward of them. There are none of them higher than 200 feet above the sea, and there are beacons, or piles of stones, upon almost every summit. .< u The main channel leading to this harbour is between Goddard and Beacon islets ; Goddard islet being the westernmost of two low islets, joined by a reef to the south-west extreme of Caribou island. K 2 ■ -4. 148 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap. vn. Bold rock, at the end of a reef extending 1| cables' lengths off the south-west point of Goddard islet, is small, always above water, and quite bold. Goddard rock, which is also, small, and dries onlj at low water, bears South, and is distant 3j^ cables from the same point. These are the only dangers on the eastern side of the channel. On the western side, Beacon islet, which is rather low, about 1^ cables long, and with a pile of stones on its summit, will be seen bearing W.S.W., nearly a mile from Goddard islet. Tail islet lies 3 cables' lengths to the south-west, and Lai-k and another low islet to the northward of Beacon islet, but they are out of the way. To the westward of Beacon islet, and distant three-quarters of a mile, is Red Head island, from which Whale island bears W.S.W., and is distant nine-tenths of a mile. Fish islet, a large low rock, lies between the two last-named islands, bearing from the former West 2 cables' lengths. Within Bed Head island, and lying in a line to the northward, are Chain and Bonne Esperance islands, the former being two peninsulas, joined together by a narrow stony isthmus, and the latter being 150 feet high, and three-quarters of a mile long. Lion island is distant a quarter of a mile to the eastward from Bonne Esperance island, and there ia a low islet and a narrow and difficult 3-fathoms channel between them. Off the east side of Lion island, and at the distance of half a cable lies the Whelp rock, always above water. Between this rock on the west, and Goddard and Caribou islands on the east, may be termed the inner entrance from the Main channel ; it is 4^ cables wide, nnd carries from 10 to 13 fathoms water, over rock, sand, and mud bottom. The dangers on the western side of the channel are the following : — ' The Watch rock, small, and which always shows, lies a quarter of a mile to the eastward of Beacon islet, and at the same distance to the northward of it, and to the eastward of Link iolet lies the Breaking ledge, which just covers at high water. The only other dangers, and they are only dangerous to a vessel of large draught, are two 4-fathom patches, the easternmost of which (Middle patch) bears South two-thirds of a mile from Beacon island ; and the other (Whale patch) E. by S., nearly half a mile from the centre of Whale island. There is foul and rocky ground, with from 5 to 10 fathoms water between these patches, which may be avoided by a vessel approaching the harbour from the westward, by hot coming into a less depth than 10 fathoms, until the leading marks for hauling into the hnrbonr come on. Wood and Water may be had in abundance from the mainlavid, but not from the islands. * sntacTZOsrs thronvb MAZsr onjkMKia,. — The prevailing winds along the coast are favourable for entering Bonne Esperance harbour, and it- CHAP. Vll,] DONNE ESPEKANCE BAY; DIRECTIONS. 149 * there will be no difficulty if the foregoing description and the following directions be attended to. Being off the coast to the eastward, and with an easterly wind, stand in towards Caribou island, the position of which with respect to Whale island has been pointed out. When at the distance of half a mile from the south side of Caribou, the vessel will be in 10 fathoms water, and the south sides of Beacon and Red Head isles, and the north side of Fish islet, will be seen to come in one, bearing W. ^ N. Bear up upon this leading mark, or if not sure of the islands, steer West, with the lead going, and a trusty person in the rigging to look out for Goddard rock, to the southward of Goddard island. The depth will be about 9 fathoms at tow water, until the vessel is past that rock, when it will deepen suddenly into 15 or 19 fathoms, and she will then be in the channel. The vessel must now haul in immediately N. by E., and Whelp rock will be seen right ahead, and in one with the west side of House island, which is low, has a house upon it, difficult to be seen, and lies close under the main* land at the distance of about a mile from Lion island. Bun in upon this mark or bearing, and when past Bold rock, off the south-west point of Goddard island, haul a little to the eastward, so as to give the Whelp a berth of a cable's length. As soon as the vessel is within this rock, bear up W.N.W., and run along the inner sides of Lion and Bonne Esperance islands, passing between the latter and Anchor island (distant from it 2 cables' lengths to the northward) into the harbour, which is 3 cables wide between Bonne Esperance and Grand islands, and where the depth is from 12 to 16 fathoms over muddy bottom. In passing between Bonne Esperance and Anchor islands, the depth will not be less than 5 fathoms, unless the vessel approaches nearer to the islands than half a cable's length. Everywhere else there is much deeper water. Being to the westward with a westerly wind, pass the south point of Whale island at the distance of half a mile, steering none to the north- ward of E. by N. to avoid the 4-fathom patches, until Whelp rock and the west side of House island, is brought in one bearing N. by E. ; then haul in upon that leading mark or bearing, and proceed as before, ex- cepting in case of the wind not being free enough to allow of passing between Bonne Esperance and Anchor islands. In this case a vessel must go round to the northward of Anchor island, and must not haul up higher than N.N.W. ^ W., nor close in the Whelp rock with the south- west extreme of Goddard island, until she is past Anchor reef which covers at high water, and lies nearly 2 cables lengths off to the eastward of Anchor island, and is the only detached danger within the bay. Whelp rock and Goddard island touching, clear the shoal water round this reef ftt the distance of half a cable's length. As soon as Anchor reef is passed. 150 qULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap. th. a vessel may haul to the wind, and minding that shoal water extends 1^ cables* lengths to the northward of Grand island (the high and large island next westward of Bonne Esperance island), she may make a tack into the harbour or anchor anywhere in the bay, where, although the depth of water is inconveniently great, yet the bottom is everywhere of mud, and the shelter complete in all winds. In short, the whole bay of Bonne Esperance may be considered as a harbour, in which there is room for a fleet of line-of-battle ships. Tiironvb •■A&&OV OBAimA. — The other channels into Bonne Esperance require only a brief notice. Shallop channel, between Bonne Esperance and Grand islands, is very narrow, and has only 2 fathoms in it at low water. It may be approached from either side of Whale island, passing Fish islet, and then keeping the western sides of Red Head, Chain, and Bonne Esperance islands close aboard into the harbour. Ttarouffta BB<|viiiCAUX CBAmrBK. — Esquimaux channel, so called because it leads direct to the eastern entrance of Esquimaux bay should be approached through Whale channel between Whale and Tent islands, the latter island being the next westward of the former. Whale channel is 8 cables wide, and carries a depth of from 10 to 18 fathoms water. There are no dangers in it that cannot be seen, excepting the 9 feet ledge mentioned as lying off the south-west point of Whale island : for the rocks, which lie half a mile off to the S.W. of Tent island, are never entirely covered. The course through the centre of Whale channel, and across the wide, deep, and open space within it, to the entrance of Esquimaux channel, is N.E. ^ N. Esquimaux channel is between Grand and Fair islands on the east, and Spit and Stone islands on the west ; between the inner islands (Fair and Stone) is the narrowest part, only 150 yards wide, and with 5 fathoms water. In passing through this, the equally narrow entrance to Esquimaux bay will be seen bearing N.N.E., distant half a mile, and the vessel must stand close over to it, before she hauls to the eastward through the North-west channel into Bonne Esperance bay. Then keeping within a cable's length of the main shore, to avoid the shoal which extends from Fair island fully half way across the channel, she should steer for the south side of the small and high Star island, and passing close to it continue her course towards Anchor island till past the shoal which extends 2 cables' lengths off Grand island, when she may haul to the southward into the harbour. Esquimaux channel is the only other besides Main channel which has water enough for large ships, but it is too narrow for vessels of any size excepting in cases of emergency. Tbronrb HTBBT OBAarBBA.— The remaining channel, between Spit and Stone islands on the east, and Esquimaux island proper on the west is called West channel ; and is only fit for small vessels because of a bar OJUP.Tii.] BONNE E8PERANCE BAY. — ESQUIMAUX BAY. 151 with only 2 fathoms water across from Stone island to a point on the western side of the east entrance to Esquimaux bay. -r i p. i^fw^ii? > ;* -Esquimaux island is a large island, 7 or 8 miles in circumference, lying in the mouth of Esquimaux bay. There are many islands outside of it, and it cannot be distinguished from the mainland from a vessel off the coast. The eastern entrance to Esquimaux bay is by a very narrow channel between the island and mainland to the eastward. This channel continues for 1| miles to the N.N.E., and th^n opens into a wide space with two islets in it. But if the mainland to the eastward be followed, it will lead to the entrance of the Esquimaux river, where Mr. Chevalier's house and Trading Post will be seen on a sandy point, backed with spruce trees, on the west side, and rather more than 2 miles from Esquimaux island.* The boats of the Gulnare ascended the river 5 miles above Mr. Chevalier's house, passing through two lakes, in the uppermost of which there were 26 fathoms water. These lakes are separated by shallow and narrow channels. The river is navigated by canoes for many miles inland, and abounds with salmon. Only small schooners can pass through the narrow channel between Esquimaux island and the main to the eastward ; but there is water enough for larger vessels to the westward of the island. We must how- ever refer to the chart for this route, for it would be quite impossible to convey any intelligible idea of such an intricate navigation through such a multitude of islands. It may be mentioned here that there is a channel with 3 fathoms water in the shallowest part, and in general with a great depth of water, between the islands and the main, from Bonne Esperance to Mistanoque ; but it can only be shown on a chart upon a large scale : no written description would be of any avail. ^^ ^^ ' roxtT BAT. — ^Proceeding westward outside of the Esquimaux islands, 4^ miles W. by N. from the south point of Whale island brings us to the southernmost of the Fort rocks ; and there is no channel for any vessels between the islands, in this distance, excepting Whale channel already described. The Fort rocks are a number of low rocks extending two- thirds of a mile to the S.W. from the south-west point of Old Fort island, which IS of a very moderate height, and about 1^ miles in diameter. * Mr. Chevalier has resided here all his life, and is the seigneur of an extensive domain extending several leagues on either side of Esquimaux river, and far back into the country. He holds this barren lordship (valuable for its salmon and seal fisheries) by grant fVom the King of France, given originally to some of the early French Fur Traden. fe-'l I- I' ■"41 ■'4 152 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [OHAP.-ril. From this island a number of smaller islands extend uorth-eastward into the mouth of Esquimaux bay. There are also a number of steep and high islands extending north-westward from Old Fort island, across the bay of the same name. There are deep water channels, leading to Old Fort bay between the islands last mentioned, but too intricate for a written description to be useful. Old i*ort Otaannci is the principal of those channels leading in from sea, between the Fort rocks and Mermot islet, and farther in between Old Fort island and Channel island ; which last, together with Crumb island to the north-east, must be kept close aboard until a vessel is in the wide and open space within the islands, and off the mouth of Old Fort Day, which runs in to the north-east, about 4 miles beyond the inner islands with deep water to its head. Being midway between the Fort rocks and Mermot islet, the course in through Old Fort channel will be N.E. ^ N., with very deep water the whole way. Mermot islet is low, has a ledge off it a quarter of a mile to the S.W., and bears W.N.W. 1| miles from the outer Fort rock. This wide opening through the outer islands is the only navigable one besides Whale channel. Through it vessels may run in between the islands in the way just mentioned, or westward between the Dog islands and the main, but this we must leave the chart to explain. In some places between the islands there is more than 50 fathoms water, and the nearer the main the fewer the ledges. 900 X83hAan»s. — To the northward of Mermot islet is the Eider group, and westward of them the Dog islands, surrounded by rocks and innumerable ledges. The outermost of these rocks lies 4 miles W. by N. from the outermost Fort rock. The south-westernmost of the Dog islands are very low, but the highest islands, next the main, although small, are of considerable elevation. There is good anchorage between them and the main, but it can only be got at easily by running down with a westerly wind from Shecatica, close along the main land, and in the channel between the latter and the scattered rocks and ledges which lie off it ; where there is very deep water the whole way, nearly 60 fathoms in some places. VOSVOX8B BOCKS, three-quarters of a mile off shore, are two or three small black rocks above water lying W. by N. | N. 3| miles from the outer Dog rocks, and an equal distance in the same direction will take US to Boulet islet. THe BomuiT. about 1^ cables in diameter, is a smooth round backed islet, green at the top, and about 70 feet in height Together with the if dUr.Tli.] FORT, LOBSTER, ROCKY, AND NAPETEPEE BATS. 153 opening to Lobster bay, which bears from it E.N.E., 1^ miles, it serves to point out the position of a vessel off the coast. Crab island is half a mile N.W. from it, and the Four rocks (within which is Inner islet) 4^ miles W. by N. These are the only islets between it and Shecatica ; but there are many rocks and ledges between them, and also off the Boulet, to seaward. *aBZ& sooXt which is very small, dries at half tide, and lies 1^ miles S.S.W. from the Boulet, is the outermost and greatest danger off this part of the coast : the sea, however, almost always breaks upon it, and also upon the others which lie between it and the Four rocks. There is nc war'"' by the hand-lead in approaching any of these rocks. ^^MVL BAT, the position ' ..iiich has been just mentioned, is a narrow inlet running 4 miles to the N.E., and quite open. It is from 1} to 2^ cables wide, between high and steep rocky shores. In the en- trance there is 35 fathoms water, diminishing to 14 fathoms half way up : after which there is anchorage quite to its head, with muddy bottom everywhere ; but it is completely exposed to south-west winds. Several very small streams enter the head of the inlet. There are two small islets close off the east point of the entrance of Lobster bay ; a vessel must pass to the westward of them in going in. XOOXT BAT, a mile to the eastward of Lobster bay, runs in N.E. by E. 1} miles, and is about 1^ cables wide, between steep and high rocky shores. There are 39 fathoms water in its entrance, but the depth soon diminishes to 16 fathoms, and then shoals gradually to its head. One mile within the entrance, on the south-east side, there is a house and fish stage at a small cove, in which the fishermen anchor in 5 fathoms, mud bottom, well sheltered from all winds. A small stream enters the head of this bay. There is nothing in the way in running up either of these bays. ITAVBTBVBB BAT is a straight and narrow inlet, very similar to Lobster bay. Its entrance is about 1^ miles to the eastward of Shecatica and 1;J- miles N.E. by N. from the Four rocks, which, together with the Inner islet just within them, must be left to the eastward in approaching this bay. The course and distance up Napetepee to its head, is N.E. ^ E. nearly 4^ miles. In a vessel out at sea this bay shows open, upon that bearing, and, together with the Boulet islet, points out the position of Mistanoque harbour, which would not be easily made uut by a stranger, if it were not for these remarkable features of the coast to the eastward ofit.» * See Flan of Mistanoque Harbour, No. 2,425; scale, m « 2 inches. ■.«<■' 1 W t »■ 154 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [CUAP. VII, In entering this bay a vessel must pass a cable's length to the tvest- ward of some rocks above water, lying just within the mouth of the bay. Within these rocks the bay is 240 yards wide, with high and precipitous shores, especially on the west side. At the distance of 1^ miles, within the entrance, there is a small islet ; pass to the westward of this islet, when the east shore must be kept close aboard until through the Narrows, Half a mile farther in, the bay is only 160 yards wide; but it soon expands again to 600 yards. The depth of water decreases from 30 fathoms in the entrance to 7 fathoms in the Narrows, and then increases to 27 fathoms with muddy bottom. There is no shelter with a wind right in, but much sea cannot roll into so narrow a place. Several small streams rtin into this bay ; but the principal stream is on the south-east side, three quarters of a mile from its head, and is the outlet of a con- siderable lake, which cannot easily be entered by boat excepting at high water. A river abounding with salmon enters this lake, and an old hunter and fisherman lives near its mouth. snaCTSOWS. — The three bays just described, have no dangers in them, but they are, nevertheless,^ by no means desirable places for vessels to go into, being so narrow, and having such deep water. Besides a sailing vessel cannot get out of them without a northerly wind, which in the summer months seldom occurs. Lobster and Rocky bays are preferable to Napetepee ; and the safe and proper way of approaching them is from the westward, with a westerly wind, passing inshore between Shecatica, and the Four rocks ; and then eastward close along the mainland, and between it and Inner islet. Crab islet, and the Boulet. ; . . r?. The Inner Obannei between these islets and the mainland is not less than 3 cables wide, and the depth of water is from 33 to 48 fathoms, over muddy bottom. This deep water channel, close along the main- land, free from all dangers, continues eastward all the way to the Dog islands. Vessels might pass between the latter and the Porpoise rocks in clear weather, when shoal water could be readily seen, and when there is a sea running heavy enough to break upon the ledges, but the other is the safer plan of proceeding. . .■ . \if MXBTAWOqvB BAT. — The north-east point of Shecatica island beai'S N.W. I N. a long mile from the Four rocks, and W.N.W. 3| miles from Boulet islet. The mainland from the Dog islands to Shecatica is of steep granitic hills (not exceeding 300 feet in height), with deep water close in to the rocks, and with only the few small islets and ledges off it whicli have been mentioned. The two contiguous islands of Shecatica and Mistanoque lie close to the mainland, and would be difficult to distinguish from it, if it were not for CHAP. Vll.] MISTANOQUE BAY AND HARBOUR. 155 .the Boulet, and the remarkable opening of Napetepee to the eastward, and the equally remarkable Shag islet to the westward. Shecatica is the eastern, the smaller, and the hig^Jr island of the two, being half a milo long, and 150 feet high. Mistanoque island, separated from Shecatica by an unnavigable channel 1^ cables wide, is nearly 1^ miles long, parallel to the coast ; broken into coves on the outside, and in the highest part 120 feet above the sea. I^ lies directly across the mouth of Mistanoque bay, which is about 1-^ cables wide, with a depth of 23 fathoms in the entrance, expanding to the breadth of 2| cables within, and running inland rather more than 3 mile^ N.E. •J N. The depth in this bay is from 27 fathoms in the centre, to 17 fathoms at the sides close to the rocks. It is not until a vessel arrives within less than half a mile of its head, that the depth decreases so as to be convenient for anchoring. The bottom is everywhere of mud ; there are no dangers, and wood and water are plentiful. , , „,. %, I MiSTAiroqua basbovs, situated directly opposite the mouth of th^ bay, is a small bay on the north side of Mistanoque island, in which the depth is from 15 to 20 fathoms, mud bottom. Vessels may however anchor in less water, a short distance to the eastward, between the island and the east point of the bay, where the depth is 12 fathoms, but the channel is there only 160 yards wide. Vessels must moor in any case. Mistanoque harbour though small, and with inconveniently deep water, is nevertheless a valuable harbour on a coast where good ports,, fit for large vessels, are so scarce. The absence of dangers outside, the easy and immediate access, in either of the prevailing winds, in consequence^ of its having two entrances, are advantages possessed by none of the other small harbours to the westward, which may be equal to it in other 'respects. '• ■- ■ ^' ■ •,•'-•'■ ^ ^' - ?!*#3/ SZBBCTZOBB. — ^Enter islet lies nearly half a mile to the westward of Mistanoque island ; and nearly a cable's length farther is Diver islet, off which, to the southward, a reef of rocks runs out 1^ cables' lengths. .Both these islets are low. To the north-west of them, at the distance of 4 cables lies a group of small islands. The West passage to Mistanoque bay is between this group and Diver and Enter islands : it is nearly 4 cables, carries 23 fathoms water, and free from danger. There is nothing immediately outside or off Shecatica, Mistanoque, Enter, or Diver islands, so that no other directions seem necessary than .to run through the centre of either passage which may be preferred. The South passage between Enter island and the west shore of Mistano- que is, however, the best channel, being 4 cables wide, with upwards .of 40 fathoms water in it, and bold to the rocks on either side. Oo 156 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [oiUF. riu arriving at the West passage of Mistanoque harbour, which is about three- quarters of a cable wide, and has 9 fathoms water in it, give the north- west point of Mistanoque a berth of about half a cable, or keep well over to the mainland side of the entrance ; but as soon as the vessel has entered this narrow channel, keep Mistanoque aboard, because there is shoal water o£f the west side of the entrance of the bay to the distance of 60 yards. In entering from the eastward, the East passage between Shecatica and the Four rocks, which are quite bold, is more than a mile wide, with very deep water; but the north-east point of Shecatica must be given a berth of a cable's length until the channel between it and the main opens, bearing W.N.W. ; for there are rocks off that point to the distance of 60 fathoms. The north-west point of Shecatica (on which there is the hut of a seal fisherman) must be kept close aboard, within the distance of 20 or 30 yards, for there is shoal water across a very small bay of the main opposite to it. The channel hero being only 60 yards wide and having only 3 fathoms "Water in it, this East passage is only fit for small vessels. LO ZS&BT, bearing W. ^ S. 7^ miles from Mistanoque, is the best guide for making the latter from the westward, as the Boulet, &c., as already mentioned, is from the eastward. The Shag islet is very remark- able, being small and high, with a round peaked hill looking green in the middle. There are many rocks off to the S.E. by E. from this islet ; the outermost of which, distant from the islet 2 miles, is the Shag rock. Being three quarters of a mile off to the southward of the Shag rock, the south point of Shecatica will bear E.N.E. about 8 miles ; and a vessel running upon this course, will pass more than a mile outside of the Three rocks, which are small and close together, lying nearly half way from the Shag rock towards Mistanoque ; and before she runs as far as Mistanoque she will recognise Diver and Enter islands, one mile within her course, and may safely haul in towards them. somsnrOB off tbe coast. — The course along the coast, from off Whale island, so as to clear all dangers, to off Shecatica island, is W. | N., and the distance 19^ miles. Off Whale island, soundings in less than £0 fathoms extend little more than 1^ miles ; and at Mistanoque the deep water approaches close to the shore ; but between these points there are soundings 3 or 4 miles off the outer rocks of the Cld Fort and Dog islands, and fully 6 miles fron^ the mainland. Off Boulet islet the depth is usually between 30 and 40 fathoms, over a varying bottom of sand, gravel, rock, and broken shells, but this will be seen in the chart. suuni'B muwvwT. — Captain Bayfield's survey from the Strait of Belle- Ssle westward, ended at Mistanoque inclusive, and recommenced again at . TU. CHAP. Til.] 81IA0 ISLET. — ASPECT OP COAST. 167 Grand Mecattlna. Tlio intermodiatu coast was surveyed in 1768, by Lieut. Michael Lane, R.N. It was examined witli his original chart in hand, and although his survey docs not poHscss the exactness which supe- rior instruments, and an improved system of hydrography, gives to modern maritime surveys, yet it is such as to confer honour on his memory, being quito sufHciently correct for the usual purposes of navigation. The following directions will therefore be taken, in part, from his original writing at the foot of his chart. But it must first be observed, that the latitude and longitude of the two extremities of his survey was carefully determined, and it was discovered that, although the relative bearing of his points was very nearly correct, yet the scale of his work erred in excess nearly 5 miles in the whole distance ; which from the south extreme of Mistanoque island, to the south extreme of Capo Mecattina> is 43J, instead of 48 miles ; the bearing being nearly S.W. (true.) The variation has greatly changed since Lane's time, when it was 26° West. Now, in the year 1860 it is between 35° and 34° West ; and the course by compass, so as to pass outside, and clear of all danger, from a mile off the south extremity of Mistanoque, to the enme dlHtance outside Flat island, is W. by S. J S., and the distance 36 miles. The same courF"> continued will pass about 2 miles outside the Murr rocks, which are off Capo Mecattina, and at the distance of 41 miles from Mistanoque. We must refer to Lane's chart, corrected in scale and in latitude and longitude, for the soundings along this course ; merely remarking that they vary irregularly, from 28 fathoms, to no ground at 110 fathoms; and that the nature of the bottom is equally changeable. ABVaoT of COAST. — The coast between Mistanoque and Cape Mecat- tina is broken into large bays and inlets, between large islands of moderate height above the sea, and partially covered with moss. Many smaller islands, islets, and rocks are interspersed, and outside all the coast is lined with small islets, rocks, and ledges, in groups, or scattered here and there. The greatest difficulty is to pass safely through between the last ; for within the islands, in most of the channels and wide spaces between them, as well as in the bays of the mainland, there is a great depth of water, amounting in one or two places to 50 or 60, and often exceeding 30 fathoms. In these deep water channels and bays, which are so intricate as to defy any attempt at a written description, small rocks are not nearly so numerous as they are outside, and are for the most part above water. The shores, too, of both the main and islands are almost everywhere ([uite bold, so that the largest ships might be conducted through many parts of these channels, and whole fleets might lie hidden in these obscure recesses full 15 miles in from the outer rocks. The entrances from the sea to these channels and bays, through the outer 108 OCLF OP ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [cbap. nr: Islotfl and rocks aro in gonornl too intricate for any directions to bo of Uso ; we shall therefore refer to the chart for them, and merely introduce hero, with slight alteration, Lieut. Lane's description of, and directions for, entering those harbours, which, although small, might be of occasional use to shipping. From Shecatica bay to IIa>Ha bay the mainland does not appear ; ai the islands, great and small, and of different heights above the sea, are so nuraeroas and so near together, that the coast cannot bo distinguished till a vessel is among them. " ovasaBB&AVB BAmaovm, the entrance to which is between Dukes island on the west and Cumberland island on the cast, bears N. by E. ^ E., 8 miles from the Shag rock (page 156), and is known by a remarkable and high hill on the mainland, about 10^ miles North from the entrance. That hill is the highest in the neighbourhood, and resembles a castle at the top, having steep cliffs like walls. The islands forming the harbour are of moderate height, the easternmost making in two round hills. This is an excellent harbour, the best and easiest of access on this coast. It has depth and room enough for the largest ships. Good water can be had in plenty on the east side of the harbour, but for wood you must go up Shecatica bay, which lies 3 or 4 miles to the north-eastward of the har- bour, and runs inland to the northward many miles. This bay has many islands, branches, and narrow crooked passages, too intricate for any to Attempt who are not well acquainted with the coast. i v. i BIBBOTTOWS. — Cumberland harbour should bo approached from between the Shag rock and the Three rocks, the latter being about 2^ miles E.N.E. from the former. In sailing in there is no danger in the way but what appears above water, excepting a ^mall rock, lying S. by W., rather nriore than half a mile from the west point of entrance, which is about 2 cables wide. As soon as the vessel is within its outer points, haul over to the west side, and run along it to the inner point on that side, bearing N. by W. ■J W., about three-quarters of a mile from the outer east point of entrance. As soon as she arrives there she may haul to the eastward, and anchor anywhere in from 7 to 20 fathoms of water •over good ground. .. , , ., > ■A»BT BASBOra, on the southern shore of Sandy island, lies N.N.W. ^ W. 2| miles from Shag island. This is a safe harbour with good ground. i^ , ..^ Water. — There is no wood to be had in Sandy harbour, but plenty of water. BXUCTioirs.— On approaching Sandy harbour there are two ledges under water to be avoided. The first of these bears West from the Shag OHAT.TIT.] CUMDRRLAND, SANDY, AND EAGLE HARBOURS. 159 rook, and South fVom tbo Shag iHland, boing dintant from the latter one mile. The second boars S. | E. nearly a mile from the east side of tho Egg rocks, and W. by N. from the summit of Shag island. A small reef with shoal water extends a quarter of a mile from Shag island towards this ledgo, leaving a deep channel between, more than three-quarters of a mile wide. The course through the centre of this channel| direct for the west extreme of Dukes island, is N. ^ W. To sail into this harbour pass to tho eastward of the Egg rocks (bearing N.W. by W. 1| miles from Shag island), and keep tho star- board point of the bay (which is tho west extreme of Dukes island, bearing N.E. moro than half a mile from the Egg rocks), aboard on going in. A HmuU rock will then bo seen above water to the northward, lying over towiirds tho east side of the entrance of tho harbour. Pass on either side of that rock, and then etoor in N.N.E. ^ E. for tho harbour, there being nothing in the way but vhat appears. ^7hcn through the entrance, which is about 2 cables wide, haul to 1 iie north-west into the harbour, ond choose a berth in 5 or 6 fathoms. vomx Avavmvatm is a little haruour, in vhich r ill voi^elsmay moor. It has a very narrow and intricate entranc , and is fit for small craft only. The approach to it is to the west m.d of Augustine chain, which is a chain of small islets, the ouv. rrost of which ' ,\. round smooth rock, with a high black rock half a naile to the westward of it. Between these last named rocks there is a ledge, which shows at one-third ebb. The passage is on either side of this ledge, and then northward along the west side of Augustine chain, but it deserves no farther descrip- tion. Mr. Kennedy's seal fibhing and trading post is or was at Fort Augustine. ... - , .U ■T. AVOVSTnrB sxvas, — The south extremity of Augustine chain bears W. ^ S. about 7 miles from Shag island. Between them lies Square channel, the largest in between the islands, toward the mainland. It is too intricate for description ; but 14 or 15 miles up it in a N.W. -J N. direction is the entrance of the \' vustine river, with a sandbar across it, dry at low water. There is plenty of wood at this river, aAOia BAmBOVB, in Itong island, has room and depth enough for the largest ships within, hut the entrances are too narrow for anything but small vessels. The east passage, between the islets which form the harbour, and Long island, bears about N.N.E. 2^ miles from the Fox islands, and is the best and deepest, but has only 3 fathoms water. This part of the coast is very dangerous, being lined with small low islets and rocks, both above and under water, and nothing but a chart upon a large scale would enable any one to find Eagle harbour. The approach to it, If*"' i 1 160 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap, tu. however, is on either side of the Fox islands, which bear N.E. J N, 9 miles from Treble Hill islet, and West about 14 miles from Augustine chain. ions, bearing N. ^ W. 4^ miles from the Boule islet, at the north extreme of Great Mecattina island, is a small cove of the main- land running in to the westward, with an islet covered with wood, and hence called Wood island, lying off its entrance. There is a passage on either side of Wood island, but that to the northward is the best, there being a ledge in the bay to the southward of the island, part of which, however, always shows ; and a rock, with 2 feet least water, S.S.E. -J E, nearly one third of a mile from the east point of Wood island. In the cove within the island there are 7 or 8 fathoms, with good ground and room to moor. It is, however, only fit for small vessels. Both wood and water may be obtained, and Mr. Robinson has or had a seal fishing and trading establishment at this place. There is no danger, but what appears, in approaching this harbour from either side of Great Mecattina island, excepting the ledges which have been mentioned. BAT. — Seal point, about a mile to the N.E. of Wood island, is the west point of entrance into Ha-Ha bay. The islands to the eastward contract the channel into this bay to the breadth of about a quarter of a mile, but there is plenty of water, and no danger but what appears' above water. The best channel is close along the mainland, between Seal point and Sound islet, leaving all the islets and rocks to the eastward. The bay runs in about 8 miles, N.E. by N., with a depth of water exceeding 60 fathoms in one part, and there are many good anchoring places, but as it is entirely out of the way of vessels, we shall not un- necessarily swell these remarks with that which is clearly shown on the chart.. CSBAT MBCATTXxrA xsXiAWB, about 3^ miles long, north and south, and about 3 miles wide, is distant rather more than 2 miles from Bed point, the nearest pn,rt of the mainland to the north-west. The central part of the island is the highest, and rises about 500 feet above the sea. The granitic hills of this island are fissured in a remark- able manner, by empty basaltic dykes traversing the island, in a north- east and south-west direction, from one side to the other. These features, together with the position of the island, in relation to the high land inside of Cape Mecattina, 4 or 5 miles from it to the W.N.W., dis- tinguish this island from any other land in the Gulf. The Boule is a high and round islet, nearly joined to the north point of Great Mecattina island. TLcre is a email rock above water close off it to c«i». rn] GREAT MECATTINA ISLAND. — MECATTINA HARBOUR. 1^1 the N.W. by N. ; and at the distance of about half a mile in the same direction, a patch of rocks with about 4 fathoms least water. Round Head, on the west side, is a high peninsula, connected to the island by a low isthmus. An islet and small rock, at the distance of a half and one mile respectively, lie off the south point of the island. E. by S., about 3 miles from the centre of the island, lies Treble Hill island. S.S.E. | E. 3 miles from the south point lies Flat island ; and S.W., about 4 miles from the same point of the island, lie the two Murr islets, about a quarter of a mile apart, of considerable height, flat at the top, and precipitous all round. Treble hill and Flat islands are quite bold all round, and so also are the Murr islets, which swarm with sea-fowl. The Murr rocks are two small and low rocks above water, lying about half a mile to the S.E. of the southernmost Murr islet. To the N.E. by E., and more than a quarter of a mile from the easternmost Murr rock, there lies a ledge on which the sea generally breaks. ' ; • . , ,. , .' it o fvii IS&AITB RARBOUS is a cove one mile deep, and about 2 cables wide between Bluff head, the high north-east point of Great Mecattina island, and the Boule. This harbour is sheltered from easterly winds by a clust r of small islets and rocks, lying off its mouth, and leaving a safe passage on either side of them. If the south passage is used, keep Bluff Head aboard ; and if the north passage, pass between the cluster just mentioned, and a small rock by itself, lying a quarter of a mile to the N.Yv'. of it, and a cable's length from the shore of the Great Mecattina. The anchorage is near the head of the cove, in from 14 to 20 fathoms water over good ground, and both wood and water may be had. , , MBCATTnrA BASBOVX, lying under the high land of Mecattina, is distant about 5^ miles N. by W. ^ W. from the Murr islets ; about 3^ miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from Round Head in Great Mecattina ; and N.E. 2^ miles from Cape Mecattina, It is a small but safe harbour, between Mecattina island and the mainland ; being only about 56 yards wide in the western entrance, and about 130 yards wide within. In & vessel of any size, it is therefore necessary to moor head and stern, and with hawsers to the shore. The depth within is 6 and 7 fathoma over good ground ; but only 3 fathoms at low water can be carried in through either entrance. In the small bay between Mutton and Mecattina islands, wherein is the western entrance, there is no anchorage in consequence of the great depth of water ; but there is no danger in the way, and it is only necessary to keep in the middle, to pass safely through the narrow western entrance. The eastern entrance is rendered difficult by a reef of rocks under water^ [ex. L.] — VOL. I. & 162 GULF OP ST. LAWBENCE ; NORTH COAST. [obap.to. running across it to the northward from the north part of the island, and should only be attempted in fine weather, unless by those who are well acquainted with the place. Strangers in fine weather may anchor outside, between the east end of the island and the main, and send a boat in to examine the channel. ^Vood MBd Water may be obtained in Mecattina harbour, and there is a Canadian residing there, who carries on the seal-fishery. snuiOTXOirs. — When sailing into Mecattina harbour, from, the east point of the island steer N. by W. over to the mainland, and keep it close aboard, until the north-west point of the island, at the wester;a •entrance, is brought in one with the point of the mainland at the eastern entrance ; the latter point being the south point of Dead cove, which is small, open to the eastward, and immediately to the northward of the eastern entrance of the harbour. Sail in with this mark on, till the north extreme of the island and the north extreme of Gull islet come in one. The vessel will then be within the reef, and must haul to the southward, towards the island, to avoid a ledge which stretches off the south point of Dead cove. Being close over to the island, she must haul to the westward into the harbour. The sense of Mr. Lane's directions (page 157) have been given, because they may be useful to small vessels, or to others in light winds, a smooth sea, and fine weather, but under any other circumstances the slightest mistake or want of care on the part of the helmsman would place the vessel on shore ; for the channel is so narrow, that there is scarcely room for a vessel to turn in it, or to allow of time for her to answer her helm in taking the turns which are required. The harbour is not above half the size assigned it in the book containing Cook's surveys, wherein there is a 'plan of it correct in every other respect. Gull islet lies E. by S. nearly a mile from the east end of Mecattina island, and there is no danger between them ; but if a vossel approaching Mecattina harbour from the eastward wishes to pass between Gull islet and the main, she must keep either the one or the other aboard, in or. < All these islands and rocks lie nearly in a line, S.S.E. from the ^uth extreme of the promontory, from which the Outer rocks are distant 2^ miles. The northern Mu.rr islet, which is the nearest of the two, hears S.E. by E. ^ 2^ miles from the Outer rocks ; and there is a clear and exceedingly deep channel between, the depth of water exceeding 90 fathoms. Vessels bound to Mecattina harbour either pass by this channel, or through between the islands ; for there is a safe passage on either side of Entrance island. The channel between Entrance and Dyke islands is the best, and has 13 fathoms water in it. The shoal water extends about half a cable's length off the east side of the former of these islands, but the latter is quite bold. The ooAax from Cape Mecattina to Cape Whittle is as dangerous as ean well be imagined, to a stranger falling in with it at night, or in thick weather ; and even to those who ore quite acquainted with it, the navi- gation is not without much difficulty. Formerly it was not often visited, except by fishermen, eggers, and a few Quebec trading schooners. There have been instances of ships, after beating about the Gulf with adverse winds and bad weather, in the fall of the year, being wrecked upon it, as was clearly indicated by the quantity of wreck almost everywhere to be found on the islands. On these melancholy occasions, the vessels either beat to pieces on the rocks, or, being hove off them by the sea, sunk afterwards in deep water. No record remained of their fate ; they were placed on the list of missing vessels. Such of their crews as escaped to the shore perished miserably with cold and hunger on the barren islands, their remains having, in several instances, been found by the seal fishermen in the spring of the year. It is obvious that a correct chart may often prevent much of Buch misery, if it only be by pointing out the situations of those few trading ports, where alone assistance to support life during the long and severe winter can be found. But it will also inspire confidence in a vessel, suddenly finding herself entangled among the rocks, by showing that there are several good harbours, and almost everywhere places, where a vessel may be saved in time of need, although they would not be sought after under other circumstances. ^ <»AF.vii.] CAPE MECATTINA. LITTLE MECATTINA ISLAND. l85 * The course and distance from Cape Mecattina to Cape Whittle is W. ^ S. 55 miles ; but this line passes 7 or 8 miles within the outer islands and rocks, so that it would be necessary to steer W. by S., from the Murr rocks, to pass outside the St. Mary reefs, which are the outer danger off the coast. The depth of water immediately off, and even within the outer islands and rocks, is in general very great, often exceeding 70 or 80 fathoms, so that there is no warning; by the lead ; but in the offing, at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, there are occasional banks of sand and gravel, with from 30 to 50 fathoms water. The outer islands are entirely bare of wood, but there are more trees on the mainland than in parts farther to north- east, indicating a slight improvement in the climate as we proceed to the south-west. ' ' KiTT&B MaoATTnrA XB&Axrs is comparatively a large island, being nearly 7^ miles long, in a N.N.E. direction, and about 3 wide. Salaberry bay, on its west side, cuts it nearly in two parts. All outside the narrow isthmus, namely, two-thirds of the island, is high and remarkable land, which can be seen from a great distance out at sea long after the other islands have disappeared below the horizon. The highest hill on the island is about 560 feet above the sea. The part of the island within the isthmus is a low and mossy swamp, resting on sand, with isolated ridges and mounds of granite piercing thiough it here and there. Within the island, to the north and west, are extensive flats of sand with boulder stones and small rocky islets.* % Little Mecattinna river discharges its waters through these flats by several shallow channels, the largest of which flows into Aylmer sound to the westward, and the shallowest into the Bay of Rocks to the eastward of the island. The latter channel has only 3 feet in it at low water, so that it is possible to wade across it, and from the island to the main when the tide is out. The river is large, and falls 30 feet over granite a short distance within the entrance, and about 2^ miles N.N.W. from the north end of the island. Little Mecattina island, having thus no channel between it and the main for vessels, and scarcely even for boats at low water, may be considered as forming the west side of a large bay. The promontory of Mecattina forms the east side of this bay, which is filled with islands and rocks innumerable, among which no vessel could find her way, and where it is possible to lose oneself for a time in a boat. * See Flan of Little Mecattina Island, with Flans of Hare Harbour and Netagama Biver, No. 1,164 ; scale, m a I inch. , .^,, ^.,..„ 166 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap. Til. The outer point of these islands is formed by the Fin rocks, lying nearly 1^ cables' lengths off Whale Head, the south extreme of the Gore islands, and bearing W. by S. J S. 10 miles from Cape Mecattina, and E. ^ N. 5^ miles from Antrobus point, a small peninsula at the south- east extreme of Little Mecattina island. To the westward of the Fin rocks, at the distance of 2 and 3 miles respectively, lie the Herriot isles and the Single rock, with two or three sunken rocks close to it. Between these and Little Mecattina island there is a large open bay, the head of which is called the Bay of Rocks. Antrobus point is the south-west point of this bay, and has a ledge off it, a cable's length to the southward, which is the only danger off the south side of Little Mecattina island. XITT&B MBOATTZXTA covs, on thc cast side of Little Mecattina* island, about three-quarters of a mile to the N.N.E. of Antrobus point, is two-thirds of a mile long, and from 140 to 280 yards wide, between high, bold, and precipitous rocks. It has 10 fathoms water in the entrance, and there are 17 fathoms over mud bottom within. It is open to the £.N.E., but as the islands are only distant 3 miles in that direction, there is no doubt but that a vessel well moored would be quite safe in it ; but it is too small, and has too great a depth of water, to be a favourite resort for vessels. The south-east point of entrance is called Cove point, and is quite bold. . ivatcr may be obtained at the head of the cove. BASa BASBomt, also on the east side of Little Mecattina island, has depth and room enough for the largest vessels, but has several rocks and ledges in it, which render it difficult for strangers. Most of these dangers can be seen, and they are all distinctly shown in the Admiralty plan ; with the assistance of which any vessel might enter this secure hai'bour, if she had a leading wind and fine Avoather. As it opens to the southward, the prevailing westerly or easterly winds are favourable for sailin;^ in, and are generally accompanied with a smooth sea in the entrance. It is only when the wind is well to the southward, that there is any swell, and even then it never rolls into the harbour so as to affect a vessel. sntacTzovB witb a ygrwrxMLrr irtibs. — To enter Hare harbour with a westerly wind, steer N.N.E. J E., so as to pass Antrobus point and Cove point at the distance of a third of a mile, and the Eden islands will be seen ahead, bearing from Antrobus point N.E. ^ N. 2^ miles. When the vessel has run three-quarters of a mile past Cove point, she will be close t» the easternmost of the two Cat rocks, which are above water, about 2 cables' lengths apart, and bear East and West from one another. At the distance of 1^ cables to the northward of the easternmost rock. CHAP. TU.] LITTLE MECATTINA COVE. — HARE HABBOUR. 167 lies StaflF islet, about 150 yards in diameter ; off which there is a rocky patch dry at low water, about a cable to the E.S.E. ; this can always be seen from the rigging, but there is also a ledge with 2 fathoms least water, 320 yards E.N.E. from the north-east extreme of the islet. On this ledge the south-east extreme of the Eden islandb and the small and high Nob islet are in one ; the latter bearing from the former N.E. by E. 1 J miles. These are the only dangers on the port-hand, or on the side of Little Mecattina island ; and to the eastward, the nearest dangers will be more than a mile from the course. When the vessel has run on the N.N.E. f E. course, as before directed, one mile past Cove point, Staff islet will be abeam on the port hand, and ought not to be nearer than a quarter of a mile. From this position the entrance of the harbour will be seen bearing N. ^ W. one mile. It cannot be mistaken, because there is no other channel through which a person can see clear into the harbour from that position. The entrance, about 340 yards wide, and 20 fathoms water in it, is between Daly and Price islands, and the only other channel is between the latter and the Eden islands, which have been already mentioned. Care must be taken not to take that channel by mistake, for a vessel would hardly get safely in that way, because of the numerous ledges. Daly island, forming the west side of the entrance, lies close to the shore, with only a boat chaimel between which cannot be seen through from outside. Being abreast of Staff islet, continue the N.N.E. ^ E. course about 3 cables' lengths farther, or till the entrance bears N.N.W., in order to clear the 2 fathoms ledge before mentioned ; then haul directly in for the entrance, leaving the Eden islands, and also Price island, to the eastward, and giving the south-west extreme of the latter a berth of not less than 60 yards. Daly island, on the port-hand, or to the westward, is quite bold. About 340 yards within the entrance on the east, or Price island side, the small Watch rock will be seen above water, and farther in, a very small islet. This last is Bold islet, about a third of a mile within the entrance, 160 yards W.N.W. from the inner end of Price island, and quite bold. On the west side, bearing North 2 cables from the east extreme of Daly island, lies Safe rock, very small and above water, and is quite safe on its east side. Nearly midway between Safe rock and Bold islet lies Rag ledge, which just dries at low water. This is the principal danger in the way, but it can almost always be seen from the rigging, and there is a clear channel on either side of it, a long cable wide, and with from 12 to 15 fathoms water in it. The western channel, however, is the best ; and the course from the centre of the entrance to it, so as to pass within half a cable's length of the Safe rock, is N. ^ W. a third of • mile. 168 OULF OF ST. LAWRENCB ; NORTH COAST. [OUAt>. TU. When within these dangers the anchorage must be chosen by the lead, for there are several patches of rock with from 4 to 6 fathoms, although the bottom is in general of mud, with from 9 to 14 fathoms water. In doing this, however, there is one more danger to be avoided, Foul rock, a 2-fathom8 patch, bearing North 6 cables from the south-west point of Price island ; and E. by N. ^ N., nearly 4 cables from the south side of the watering cove, which will be seen on the west side of the harbour. Until within this rock, therefore, a vessel should keep more than half way over from the islands forming the east side of the harbour, towards its western shore. She may if requisite run in nearly half a mile farther than this patch, and anchor to the eastward of Cluster point, which consists of some low small islets and rocks extending off the L' ttle Mecattina shore ; 'this position being the most secure in the hrj-bcur. i ^ s ^ntta an MAMTmajir "Wtmn. — When bcaud for Hare harbour with an easterly wind, steer West, so as to pass half a mile to the southward of the Fin rocks. Having run 2^ miles upon this course after the Fin rocks were abeam. Scale rock (a 2-fathoms ledge) will be 4 cables to the northward, and also the Tail rocks, off the Herriot isles, at the distance of thi'ee-quarters of a mile. When the vessel has run one mile farther on the aame course. Single rock will be seen, small and just above water, three- quarters of a mile on the starboard beam, provided there has been no tide or current. At any rate the rock will be seen, which hab no other above water near it, being two-thirds of a mile to the westward of the nearest of the rocks off the Herriot isles ; more than 1 1 miles East from Cove point, and S.S.E. 1^ miles from the Eden islands. There is nothing in the way to the westward of the line from Single rock to the Eden islands, excepting the Cat rocks above water, and Staff islet, and its ledges already described as lying close to the shore of Little Mecattina island. On the contrary, there is a fine open bay, with plenty of room for the largest vessels to beat, and a depth in many places exceed- ing 50 fathoms. Single rock, however, must not, be approached nearer than a quarter of a mile, because of three sunken rocks around it at the distance of 1-^ cables, and with 1, 2, and 3 fathoms of water upon them. As soon as Single rock is made out, and is brought abeam steering West, haul in to the north-westward by degrees, so as to place the vessel half a mile to the westward of the rock, when the entrance of the harbour will bear N.N.W. with nothing in the way ; and the vessel may be steered directly for it, and proceed as before directed. All the bay within, or north-eastward of the Eden islands, as well as to the eastward of the line from them to Single rock, is dangerous, being full of sunken rocks, and shoal rocky patches, springing up through great, depths of water. ^^ ^ - CBAP. YII.] HARE HARBOUR.>^AYLMEa SOUND. 169 There is a good watering-place in the small cove on the west side of Hare harbour, and wood may also be obtained in various places. There is usually a couple of men either in the entrance of Little Mecattina river, or near Little Mecattina cove, during the summer months. They were employed in the salmon and seal fisheries for Mr. Robinson of Fish harbour, but they do not remain during the winter. There are plenty of blue and cloud berries, &c., on the hills of Little Mecattina island ; and whoever may take the trouble to ascend them, will be rewarded with a fine and extensive view of very peculiar scenery. The eye wanders over myriads of islands, and far inland among the barren rocky hills. Steep precipices, deep glens, and dark stagnant ponds fringed with dwarf spruce, juniper, birch, and poplar, are the nearer objects ; and the whole conveys an idea of extreme barrenness. We are not sure that there is anything strictly beautiful in such a view, but it would seem that there is a degree of sublimity in the desolation of such scenery, which conveys very great gratification to the mind. jf.-^ i'j.'.3 AT&MBK SOUiro. — The south shore of Little Mecattina island, ex- tending from Antrobus point 3 miles W. by S. to Cape Mackinnon, the south-east point of Aylmer sound, is high and bold, with remarkable beaches of white boulder stones occasionally. There is a long cove close to the eastward of Cape Mackinnon, but it is of no use to vessels. Aylmer sound is formed by Little Mecattina island on the east, and the Harring- ton islands, together with the mainland, on the west ; and is navigable about 4 miles to the N.N.E. from Cape Mackinnon. The course and dis- tance across this sound from Cape Mackinnon to Cape Airey, the south extreme of the Harrington islands, is W. -^ S. 5 miles ; but farther in, that is, from Paynter point to Craig point, the breadth is only 2 miles, and 80 it continues as far as it is navigable. Faynter point is formed of small islets close to the mainland, and the course and distance to it, along the east side of the Harrington islands, is N.E. -^ E. 4 miles. , -.tw, AI9 and C&OSB IB&BTS. — There is no danger on the west side of Aylmer sound but what appears and is close to the shore ; but on the east side there are two small islets, the outermost of which. Aid islet, bears N.W. ^ N., and is distant 9 cables from Cape Mackinnon, and is 4 cabled ofi* shore. The other. Close islet, lies about half way between the Capd and Aid islet, and about a cable off shore. v j. . <" LT Baar, small, awash at low water, and bold all roimd, lies W. by N. 1^ miles from Cape Mackinnon ; and W. by S. ^ S. on^ mile from Aid islet. This is the only danger in the entrance of the sound that cannot always be seen ; and vessels had better pass to th% westward of it, because we have not sounded between it and Aid iale^ 170 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [ouAr. TII. "where, however, ^vo have no doubt that there is plenty of water, as there is also between the idet and the shore to the eastward. soT&a is&AWBS arc four in number, but they appear from sea as two only. The two north-westernmost islands are very low, and close together, being joined at low water. The two Houth-easternmost are of moderate height, and also close together. Their east point bears N.N.E. 2 miles from Craig point, which is the west extreme of Little Mecattina, distant one mile from Capo Mackinnon. There are several small rocks and ledges in the channel between these islands, and also between them and Crescent point to the north-west of them ; so that the only safe passage is to the eastward of the islandn, ami between them and the ledges which lie across the mouth of Salaberry bay. This passage is half a mile wide, with 18 to 23 fathoms water in it, the east side of the islands being quite bold. xov XOAB. — From the north-east point of the eastern Doyle island, Boot point (the south point of entrance uf Louisa harbour), bears N.E.. and is distant 6 cables. Within or to the north-east of the Doyle islands, between them and Louisa harbour, there is a fine roomy roadstead, called liOU road, in ^vhich vessels may choose their anchorage in from 12 to 4 fathoms over muddy bottom ; the soundings decreasing gradually to the north-west, from the line joining the eastern Doyle island and Boot point, over to Crescent point, a distance of about a mile. This roadstead is bounded to the northward by banks of sand and stones dry at low water, which extend across from the Dickson islands, forming the north-west side of Louisa harbour to Crescent point. It is through these banks that the Little Mecattina river discharges most of its waters, as mentioned in page 165. &OVISA BABBomt is about 2 cables wide at the entrance, and within, the space in which vessels can ride, in from 3 to <5 fathoms muddy bottom, it is a third of a mile north and south, by a quarter of a mile east and west. The harbour is open to the W.S.W., but all sea is broken off by the Doyle islands. The points of entrance are quite bold, and the best anchorage is 1^ cables' lengths within them, in 4 fathoms, and in the southern part of the harbour. BXBBCTKOBS. — The only directions for sailing into Louisa harbour, or into Lou road between it and the Doyle islands are, to keep the eastern side of the latter aboard, to avoid the ledges lying across the entrance of Salaberry bay, as already mentioned. When once inside of the island there is nothing in the way, so that a vessel may either anchor in the road or run into the harbour as convenient. In the Sound outside of the Doyle islands, the only thing to be guarded againet is the Spray reef* CBAT.Tii.] LOUISA HARBOUR. — HARRINGTON ISLANDS. 171 or There are irregular Houndinga with m little tia 11 fathoms over rocky bottom hero and there, but in general the depth h from 19 to 23 fathoms with rock, sand, and mud bottom. The ground eannut bo trusted until within the Doyle islands. tnrOTOir nzjLsrBB extend northward 4 miles, from Cape Airey to the mainland, there being no channel within them, ])ecau80 of the multitude of small rocks. The longest of these islands is about 1^ miles long, and several of the others are nearly as large. They are high islands, the highest being estimated at 3<)0 feet above the sea. Between the outer and largest islands tliero is indifferent anchorage and deep water ; but the cl;*«nel8 leadiivj; to it are narrow, and too intricate for any directions to ' avail. In yliuit, it is a very dangerous place, and useless, excepting to small vessels intimately acquainted with the coast. B&AOX sBsr, lying off tho IIarrinf,'ton islands, and bearing from Cape Aircy S. by W. ^ W. 2 miles, is composed of low black rocks above water, about 1^ cables in diameter, bold, but with very irregular soundings around it, varying from 6 to 70 fathoms over rocky bottom. SKaJOB BBBT, awash at low water, and very small, bears W. by N. 1-j^ miles from Cape Airey. xraxa-OAMU ibkaxtsb, bearing W. by N. 4^ miles from Cape Airey, are small, Avith a remarkable mound on tho largest of them. Between them and the Harrington islands there is a bay of the mainland with clay cliffs, and sandy beach at its head, and innumerable small rocks across its mouth. VBTAOAMnr BZVBB. — The entrance to this river bears N. by W, 1 J miles from tho Netagamu islands, and may be known by the sandy beach, backed with a thick growth of spruce trees, on either side of its entrance. It is a large stream with deep water in the narrow entrance, and also within close up to the falls, which descend perpendicularly 50 feet, on either side of an island, and into a basin half a mile wide. These falls, which are N.E. by E. 1^ miles from tho centra nee, can be pai-tly seen from the sea, when they bear N.E. by E. A semicircular bar of sand, dry at low water, with the exception of a narrow channel with 3 feet water in it, extends a mile out from the entrance, and is extremely dangerous to boats because of the heavy surf. The current in this river is rapid, and the bottom of the channel is rock ; but small schooners may be secured on the eastern side, a mile within the entrance, where there are two huts, the temporary residence of salmon fishermen during the season. The hills of the mainland, 4 or 5 miles to the westward of this river, are rather higher 17a GULP OP 8T. LAWRENCE } NORTH COAST. [OHAP. TO. than is usual on (his coMt, riling to the height of «00 or AOO feet above ■T. MAmT M&AWBS lio 7 milcu off the inn...lnii«l, and thoir oaat extremo boors W.S.W. 10 miles from Cope Airoy. Thoio are two of those islands so close together that thej may bo considered as one narrow island about 3 miles long, in a S.W. by W. ^ W. direction. Their height is 200 feet above the sea, and they are of bare steep granite, and bold all round. Ho two-thirds of a mile to the N.W. from the south-west point of the St. Mary islands. There is a ledge which shows to the S.W. of them. The Cliff islands are one round and steep island, half a mile in diameter, with several small islets and rocks close to the westward of it, and deep water between them all. Between these and the Boat islands there is a safe channel half a mile wide. ' . -r: \..''\ ■OAT IB&AWBS, a cluster of small islands close together, lie W.^N. 2^ miles from the south-west point of St. Mary islands. They occupy a space of IJ miles in a W.S.W. direction by about three-quarters of a mile wide. >B&a IB&AITBB are a chain of islands, nearly joined at low water, with several small islets adjacent. The westernmost island is 2^ miles long and 150 feet high. The whole group covers a space of 3^ miles in a W. by S. direction, by about a mile wide. There is a good anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms between the westernmost island, and two smaller islands to the northward of it ; but it is too small for large vessels and too intricate for description, and can only be approached from the eastward. The Middle islands lie 1^ miles from the main, and there is no safe channel between, in consequence of the numerous islets and rocks. Be- tween these islands and Boat islands there is a safe channel, more than a mile wide. In all these channels the soundings are irregular, and the ground foul. In some places there are only 15, whilst in others there are 40 or 50 fathoms water. TMtrowat MMwr is email and awash at low water. It bears N. by W. ^ W. nearly a mile from the northernmost of the St. Marj reefs, and W. by S. ^ S. 1| miles from the south-west extreme of the Boat islands. ^wy* ■T. MABT saars, the most dangerous off the coast, are four ledges just under water, on some of which the sea always breaks. From the iKHTthem to the southern ledge the distance is a mile, and the lattef OUP.Tii.] ST. MARY REBFS. — WATA0HEI8TI0 SOUND. 178 bears 8.W. | 8. 3^ miles from the Bouth-west extreme of the Bont iHlanch ; W. by 8. J 8. 6 miles from the Houth-west oxtromo of the 8t. Mary lalandH ; and S.E. ^ 8. 8^ miles from the westernmost of the 8outh-weBt Islands, which are a group of small islets, of which tho westernmost ia high and round. There is a patch of 12 fathoms lying 2 milcH out to the southward of tho 8t. Mary reefs, and another of 8 fathoms, nearly as far to the westward of them. \';"ti There are irregular soundings and deep water around and between all these rocks and islets, but no warning by the hand-lead. There is a clear channel between tho Tender reef and tho South-west islands, and also between the St. Mary reefs and the Boat islands ; at least there is nothing with so little water as 3 fathoms, since tho sea often breaks in that depth, and we must have scon it. ' «. WATAORBZSTIO ISAAITB and SOWB. — Watagheistic is a large and hilly island 3 miles long by more than l^ miles wide. It is much broken into coves, and lies in the mouth of a largo bay of tho mainland, from which it is difficult to distinguish it from a vessel out at sea. Watagheistic sound is a secure harbour between the island and tho main- land. Tho eastern entrance is narrow and intricate, but tho western entrance is half a mile wide ; and although there are several rocks and ledges in it, yet it may be safely sailed through, with proper care and the assistance of the Admiralty plan, in the largest vessels. Tho east end of Watagheistic island bears North, 6;|^ miles from tho Cliff islands ; but there are many islets, rocks, and reefs between, which it would be tedious and useless to enumerate, so that it will be sufficient to remark that Cove island, which is the largest of them, is half a mile in diameter, and sur- rounded with rocks and ledges. It bears N.N.W. 4 miles from the north point of St. Mary islands, and there are thickly scattered rocks, both above and under water, all the way from it to the Netagamu islands, 6^ miles to the eastward.* OAvnoir. — If it were not that cases sometimes occur, in which a secure anchorage is indispensable to the safety of a vessel, we should not give any direction for Watagheistic, which cannot be got at without passing through 7 miles of dangerous navigation. The following brief directions are given, with the caution that their use must be accompanied with a good look-out from (he rigging, for it is impossible to be certain that every ledge has been found in such a place, although there is every reason to suppose that none have escaped notice. * See Flan of Watagheiatie Sound, Mary islands, &c., No. 1,119; scale, mssl*7 faiehM. I ^'■^' 174 GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [OHAP.vn. BiaiMSTZOVB ftor ■ASTUtir BiTTBAircB. — ^Being to the westward with a westerly wind, a vessel may either pass between the Tender reef and the South-west islands, and farther eastward between the Middle and Boat islands, or she may run down outside the St. Mary reefs, and then haul in to the northward between the Boat and Cliff islands, which is the safer route, and the one for which the following directions are given. Being then in mid-channel between the Boat and Cliff islands, steer N. by E., and that course will lead close to Bold rock, bearing N. ^ W. 2 miles from the western extreme of the Cliff islands, and East half a mile from the east point of the Middle islands. The Centre reef, which always shows, bears E. by N., 1^ miles from the Bold rock ; and there is a clear channel between them, but not between the Bold rock and Middle islands. If the vessel passes to the eastward of the Bold rock at the distance ot 3 or 4 cables' lengths, as soon as she has passed that rock, alter course to N. by W., and when she has run 1^ miles, she will be in the line from the Cutter reefs to those which extend to the south-west from Cove island, and rather nearer the former than the latter. The latter reefs bear from the former E. by N. 2 miles, and some parts of both can always be seen. Continue the N. by W. course 1^ miles farther, and she will be midway between the Black ledge and the Bare rocks, the latter bearing from the former E. by N. J N. 1^ miles. Do not go near this ledge, which has not been sounded off. Alter course now to N.N.E. ^ E., passing to the westward of all the islets to the north-westward of Cove island and when the vessel has run 1| miles, Beacon islet will be seen (close to the south-east extreme of Wataj; leistic island, and with a smaller islet a quarter of a mile to the westward of it) a quarter of a mile a-head. Run down to the N.E. by E., past this islet, sufficiently far to avoid a reef and 3 fathoms patch, which together extend 4 cables' lengths off it to the N.E. by E. ; then haul in N.N.W., giving the islet a berth of full half a mile, when the depths will be 10 or 12 fathoms. When the vessel has run half a mile from the time Beacon islet was abeam, a deep bay will be observed in the east side of Watagheistic island. Steer for the narrow channel between the north point of this bay, and two small islets which lie nearly 1^ cables' lengths off it to the north- east. As soon as she arrives at these islets, another deep cove will be seen in Watagheistic island, with an islet nearly filling up its mouth. Steer to pass close to the eastward of ^his islet, and then N.W. for the channel between Watagheistic island and the islands to the eastward which extend across to the mainland in that direction, with the exception of a very narrow 3 fathoms channel. Keep in the middle of the channel inclining towards the west or the Watagheistic side. The channel is at first only about 170 yards wide, but it boou expands to 320 yards, with a CHAF. VII.] WATAGHEISTIC SOUND; DIRECTIONS. 175 depth of 15 fathoms in the middle over mud bottom, where the vessel may anchor in great security. After she has passed the reef off Beacon island, there is nothing in the way by this route, the islands being quite bold. If wishing to run through into the Upper sound, beware of a reef which lies across the mouth of the channel at the distance of 1^ cables as will be seen in the chart. As there is no safe channel to the eastward of Cove island, a vessel cannot approach this anchorage with an easterly wind without first beating up along the south side of Watagheistic island, after she has passed between the Bare rocks and Black ledge, so that in that case the western entrance to Watagheistic sound is to be preferred. DXSBCTZoars for ximsTESM' EVTHAsrcB.— With an easterly wind, a vessel may either sail in from sea through the same channel as before, or to the eastward of the St. Mary islands, which is quite safe. Being to the eastward, steer for the north-east point of St. Mary islands, which may be passed at the distance of 2 cables, and then bringing it astern, steer from it N.W. by W. ^ W., and the Centre reef, which must be looked out for, will be abeam at the distance of about a quarter of p. mile to the northward, when 2 J miles has been run from the north-east point of the St. Mary islands, from which the reef bears N.W. by W, 2| miles. The reef is bold all round, and it may be passed on either side at the distance of 2 cables, but to the southward of it is to bo preferred. Continue the N.W. by W. ^ W. course for a mile past the reef, then haul up N. by W. ^ W., and when the vessel has run 2^ miles, she will be midAvay between the Bare rocks and Black ledge as before ; run on the same course three-quarters of a mile farther, and the Seal islands, forming the north point of Boussier bay (full of islands), will bear West two-thirds of a mile. The channel to the westward between Watagheistic island and the mainland will now be open, and two small islets will be seen, nearly in its centre, in one, bearing W. by N. ^ N. The nearest of these islets will be distant about 1^ miles ; they are a quarter of a mile from each other, and quite bold ; but bear in mind that exactly in the line from the one islet to the other, and 3^ cables' lengths E, by S. ^ S. from the easternmost of them, is the Kettle rock, very small, and just covered at low water. This rock lies exactly in a line from the Seal islands to the point of a shoal cove of Watagheistic island, which is open to the eastward ; there is a rock awash 160 yards off the point of this cove to the southward. The channels on either side of .^he Kettle rock, which is quite bold, are each a quarter of a mile wide, and have from 20 to 26 fathoms w ater in them. Having brought the islets in one, the vessel has only to avoid the Kettle rock, running in W. by N. | N. on either side of it, and the two islets to the westward of it, and then hauling up to the northward under the west 176 dlfLF OP 8T. LkWBMftcn ; NORT^ COAST. [caxf. Tn» end of Watagheistic island, where she may anchor in from 17 to 20 fathoms over mud bottom, with plenty of room, no dangers anjmfhere near her, and well sheltered from all winds. » ■ "•> v'^ t/» vk?« ; r-r-:' '*.">■•»»« u'»rr^* ,«-wi»ttf From both the anchorages for which we have given directions, a vessel with the Admiralty plan may easily sail into the Upper sound to the northward of Watagheistic island, which is navigable throughout for the largest vessels, with a convenient depth of water, and good ground for anchoring. Wood and water may be had there in plenty, and in Hamelle harbour, at the eastern extremity of the sound, a hunter and salmon fisher resides ; and there is another in Boussier bay, which has been noticed as lying to the westward on the way to the western entrance into the sound. There is no good anchorage on the route to, or outside either entrance to Watagheistic, the soundings being irregular, with deep water and generally foul ground. The breakers on every side, on so many rocks and ledges, make the place look, as it really is, extremely dangerous. t. — Between the Middle islands and Waprtagun, the mainland is broken into coves, and lined with islets and rocks innumerable, among which nothing but a very small vessel, well ac- quainted with the coast, could find her way. There is nothing there worthy of notice, excepting the rapid Etamamu river, which enters a bay open to the south-west, full of islets and rocks, and 4 miles N.E. from the eastern entrance of Wapitagun. At the mouth of this river, there is a trading and salmon fishery post, at which two men reside all the year.* 8017TR M ■-"" "^ ■■ '•'" "■ •' 0*25 of an CHAP. VII.] SOUTH MAKEBS ROCK. — ^WAPITAGUN HABBOUB. 177 of an rocks, one of which, with 4 fathoms, stretches 3| cables' lengths S. ^ W. from the south-easternmost Cormorant rock ; another E.N.E. from the Nest rock^ and S.E. from Slime rock, (the north-east Cormorant,) three- quarters of a mile from each, with only 2 fathoms ; and a 2 fathoms patch which bears N.E. ^ N. a quarter of a mile distant from the Slime rock. There is no channel between the Cormorant rocks, or between them and Lake island, excepting for small schooners the crews of which know the position of every ledge. "WAVITAOUV BAmBont. — Mistassini, or the Great Stone, is a remarkable block of granite lying on the south-east extreme of the Outer Wapitagun ialtinds, which bears from the South Mak«>rs N. ^ E. rather more than 3 miles. The block of granite, just mentioned, resembles a mortar, especially when seen from the south-west, and has been called the Gun by the fishermen. It serves as an excellent guide to the East passage into Wapitagun harbour, the entrance to which is three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of it, and N. by E. 3^ miles from the South Makers ledge. The Outer Wapitagun islands, which are of bare granite, about 70 or 80 feet high, are so close together, and so overlap, that they appear like one island. They completely shelter the harbour, which is a long and narrow channel running east and west between them and Wapitagun island, which is next to the northward of them. The West passage of the harbour is 2 miles to the westward from the Mistassini ; N.N.W. ^ W. 4 miles from the South Makers ; N. -^ E. nearly a mile from Slime rock, the north-easternmost Cormorant ; and 3 miles E. by S. ^ S. from Cape Whittle.* The south shore of Lake island, between Cape Whittle and Cormorant point, its south-east extreme, is very remarkable, bein^ quite straight in An S. by S. ^ S. direction, and ttvvposed of craggy cliffs of dark red granite, upwards of 100 feet m height, and btained white by the cormorants. The west extreme of the Ontc: tVapitagun island bears E. by S. 6 cables' lengths from Cormorant point. There is a small islet nearly midway between these pou.;; but withiii, cc to the northward of the line joining them ; a vessel must pass to the eastward of this islet in going into the harbour ; the entrance being sharp round the western extreme of the Outer Wapitagun islands. The West passage into the harbour is about 160 yards wide, and there are partH of the channel, between islets within the East passage, which are not more than 120 yards wide. The harbour is nowhere more than 280 yards wide, excepting where there are small bays ; so that although the depth of water is more than sufiicient ' ' • See Flan of Wapitagun Harbonr, No. 1,148 ; scale, m ■ a inches. [sT. L.] — VOL. I. M 178 GULF OP ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap, nu lot the largest vesselB, yet the navigation is so intricate, that this harbour is not fit for those of a greater burthen than 150 or 200 tons. Water. — There is water to be had on Lake and Wapitagun islands ; but for wood the boats must proceed through the islands to the main- land, distant from the harbour about 3 miles to the northward. antBCTXOWS. — The position of the East passage into Wapitagun harbour, between the Outer Wapitagun island and others to the eastward has been pointed out, and, in approaching it from the southward with an easterly wind there is nothing in the way. There is a rock and ledge which shows on the west side of the entrance. Keep, therefore, the eastern side aboard, steering in N.W. by N. Three small islets will be Been a third of a mile within the entrance, and to the northward of them a cove in Wapitagvn island running in to the westward round a steep rocky point, which has a small sunken rock close off it to the south- east. There is safe anchorage in 2^^ fathoms in this cove, but if wishing to run into the harbour, leave all three islets to the southward, passing close to them, and then bear up to the westward, bet>»'een them and the steep rocky point of the cove just mentioned. This is the safer passage ; the other, to the southward of all three islets, is only 60 yards wide, and has besides a ledge in the way, which can only be avoided by having ft trusty person in the rigging, which, by the way, is necessary at all times, in entering this and similar harbours. To enter Wapitagun harbour by the West passage, and with a westerly wind, attend to the following directions, remembei'ing that a look out for the ledges from the fore yard or the rigging is absolutely necessary, even with the best of charts. Run down between the Cormorant rocks and South Makers ledge, and then haul in North so as to pass half a mile to the eastward of the south-easternmost Cormorant rock, which will be readily known from the Nest rock, covered with birds and stained white by them, being about 240 yards to the westward of it. Look out now for the small Two-fathoms ledge which lies 4 cables' lengths to the north- east of the south-easternmost Cormorant, which leave also to the westward ; and, having passed it, haul up to the westward a little, so as to pass not less than 3 cables to the eastward of the Slime rock (the north- east Cormorant), in order to avoid the other Two-fathoms ledge, which bears from it N.E. ^ N. a quarter of a mile. Having passed close to the eastward of this ledge, steer directly for the islet in the channel, between the west extreme of the Wapitagun islands and Cormorant point, takirig care not to haul up higher than N.N. W. | W. to insure passing to the eastward of Long ledge, which lies midway between Slime rock and Cormorr - i point, and on the line joining the west OBAJP. til] WAPITAQUN HARBOUR ; DIRECTIONS. 179 end of the islet steered for, and the high east end of Lake island, which therefore to the westward must not be opened out of the islet. Having passed Long ledge, bring the west end of the islet to bear North, and steer for it, looking out for the 7-feet ledge, which lies 1^ cables' lengths to the southward, from the western extreme of the Outer Wapitagan islands, which should not be approached nearer than 2 cables' lengths until the ledge is passed. The patch which lies 240 yards to the south-west of the islet, is quite bold, and will be avoided if the islet be not brought to bear to the east- ward of North. When the vessel arrives within 2 cables' lengths of the islet, and the harbour begins to appear open to the eastward, take in after- sail instantly, so as to bear up cuickly for the entrance, leaving the islet to the northward of the vessel. When once within the entrances the rocks are bold and the water smooth, and an anchorage may be chosen iinywhere, the general depths being from 16 to 20 fathoms. The best berth, however, is in a small bay on the south side of the harbour, 6 cables' lengths within the West passage, in 7 fathoms. The bottom within the hai'bour is everywhere of mud, but outside it is all rocky, with irregular soundings. There is no doubt, that to enter this and several other harbours described in this chapter, will be considered a difficult and dangerous affair, but if these directions be read carefully over before attempting the entrances, with the charts of the harbours in hand, they will be readily understood, and little difficulty will be experienced beyond that which may be over- come by a smart and seamanlike management of the vessel, placed under proper and reduced sail for the purpose, with a leading wind and fine weather, so that the ledges may be seen from aloft. It will be observed on referring to the chart, that there is a patch bearing E. ^ S., 1^ mile?, from Slime rock. This has not been mentioned, because it will be ut of the way ?f the foregoing directions be followed ; but we may as well add, that it bears E. by N. ^ N., three quarters of a mile from the Two-fathoms ledge to the north-east of the south-easternmost Cormorant rock. TIBB8. — It is high water, full and change, in Wapitagun harbour at lOh. 30m. ; ordinary springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. The flood from the eastward and ebb from the westward usually run past the entrances of the harbour, at a rate varying from a half to one mile ; but both streams are much influenced by the winds. K 2 . !.H . . 180 v.'mKv^'yi .4 " ,'>,Vv.;a CHAPTER VIII. GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, NORTH COAST.— CAPE WHITTLE TO THE RIVER ST. JOHN, INCLUDING THE MINQAN ISLANDS. Vawation 32<» to 274° West in 1860. ASvaoT of COAST.-— From Cape Whittle, the south-west point of Lake island, Natashquan point bears N.W. by W. | W., an/l the distance is 63 miles. With the exception of the first 13 miles eastward of Natash- quan point, where the shore is of sand, this coast is of granite, which rises into steep hills and ridges, with rounded summits, having between them morasses and stagnant ponds. The mainland is seldom higher than 200 feet, even in the heads of the bays, and it diminishes in height towards the sea, as do also the innumerable eiaall islands, islets, and rocks, which fringe the coast, and which in f-ome parts extend fully 5 miles from the nearest point of the mainland. The islands are bare of wood, and so also is the main, excepting up the bays or where sandy tracts occur, which are always covered with a thick growth of spruce, with occasional birch and poplar.* Seen from the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, this coast presents an outline 80 little diversified, that it is nearly impossible to distinguish one part of it from another ; and it is only when a vessel approaches within 3 or 4 miles of the outer rocks that its broken and dangerous nature becomes apparent. The outer rocks, both above and under water, are so bold that there is no warning from the use of the hand lead ; but there are soundings with the deep sea lead in moderate, but irregular, depths, off every part of this coast. Th,.> :* de' j water soundings are too irregular to admit of a concise description ; we must thereior3 refer to the chart, with the remark, that they are S' -Hcient to warn a vessel of her approach towards danger at night, or in fogs, since these depths do not amount to 50 fathoms at any less distance than 5 miles from the outer rocks. * See Charts : — Golf of St. Lawrence, Sheets 3 and 4, No*. 305, 306 ; scales, m of anincL 0-25 ■« Outer islet, Wolf island, and the islets and rocks between them and the mainland, may be considered as forming the south-eastern side of the bay ; and the Audubon islands and rocks as forming the north-western side of the bay. The entrance of the bay is, therefore, between the two extreme points, which bear from each other N. by W. and S. by E., and are distant about 2-^ miles. ' . •.<" omAvaa soox, on which the steam-ship North America, Captain W. Grange, touched in September 1858, is the easternmost of three dan- gerous ledges lying off the entrance of Coacoacho bay. It is the shallowest part of a narrow ridge of rocks about three-quarters of a mile long in a W.S.W. direction, and which is shown by breakers only when there is a heavy sea running. From the least water on it, 15 feet. Outer islet bears N.E. by N. nearly 1^ miles : and from its south-western end, in 3 fathoms, the same islet bears N.E. jf N., 1-^ miles. '•' ■OUTB BsaAXBB, which also shows only in heavy weather, bears from Outer islet W. by N. -J N. 2 miles, and from Grange rock N.W. •J N. 2 miles. It has less than 12 feet water on it, and is near the north-eastern «nd of a ridge of rocks, which extends from it 7 cables to the S.W. ^ W., with 16 feet water near its outer extremity. . . with only 3 feet water on it, bears N.W. by N. 2J miles from the South Breaker, and West 2^ miles from Audubon point. There are clear channels between these ledges, which may easily be avoided by the chart, or if the weather be clear they will be readily seen from the fore-yard of a vessel. BisaoTiovB. — To enter Coacoacho bay by the most direct channel between the Grange rock and the South breaker, proceed as follows :•— Being not less than 3 miles from Outer islet, bring it to bear between N.E. ^ E. and E. ^ N., and steer for it until the vessel is within the Grange rock and the South breaker, or until Outer islet is distant not more than a mile, when the rocks which lie about half a mile to the northwai'd of the islet will be plainly seen. Pass to the westward of those rocks, at the distance of 3 or 4 cables, and when abreast of them, u chain of low rocks, which project to the S.W. from Emery island, will be seen right ahead. Bring the point of this chain to bear N.E. | N., when it will appear on with the extreme point of the mainland on the north-west Bide near the head of the bay. * See Flan of Coacoaeho Bty, No. 1,143 ; scaler m •= I inch. .CBAr.TIII.] COACOACHO BAY ; DIRECTIONS. 183 Steer in upon this leading mark or bearing until the veseel is past some roclcs which lie 6 cables from the east side of the Audubon islets. These rocks, which are dry at low water, and can always be seen, must be left on the port or north-west side, and, having passed them, haul to the northward a little, so as to leave the Emery rocks, which are quite bold, on the south-east or starboard side. Their outer point bears N.N.E. ^ E. 8 miles from Outer islet, and when up to them, the bay will be seen open right ahead, and clear of danger, e'icepting Milne reef, which is partly dry in low tides, and extends nearly three quarters of a mile out from the Low rocks ; its outer end lying nearly in a line from Tertiary point to Crocodile islet on the west side of the bay. To pass to the westward of it, keep Audubon point shut in behind Milne point and Crocodile islet. The bottom, outside, is either of rocks or sand, with a depth of from 12 to 30 fathoms ; but as soon as the vessel is within the points of the main- land, just within Emery island, mud bottom will be found, with a depth of from 10 to 20 fathoms. The fai-ther in, the better the ground, and the less the swell with south-west winds, which are the only winds that send any swell into the bay. The best berth is on the western side of the bay, half a mile within Crocodile islet, in 9 fathoms, mud. If wishing to run into Tertiary Shell bay, there is nothing in the way excepting a small rock above water, a quarter of a mile within the entrance, which must bo left on the starboard hand ; and which, like the shores on either side, is quite bold. This bay is not more than 1^ cables wide, half a mile from the entrance, but it becomes wider within, with from 5 to 1 1 fathoms water over mud bottom, and is there quite land locked. In running in for the Basin, keep the north-west side of the bay aboard until the vessel is within half a mile of the island in the head of the bay. Then sheer over to the eastward, towards that island, to avoid a shoal of boulder stones which extend nearly 2 cables off the west side of the bay. The channel between this shoal and the island is only a cable wide, but deep enough for the largest ships. Give the island a berth of 100 yards, leaving it to the eastward or on the starboard hand, and, as the vessel passes through, she will deepen her water from 9 to 19 fathoms, the latter depth being just within the island. As soon at she is pbst the inner end of the island, haul to the N.W., into the mouth of a small bay, and the water will soon shoal to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, where she must anchor, and will be quite sheltered from every wind. The Basin becomes quite shoal inmiediately above this anchorage where there is another island lying in the entrance of Coa- coacho river. Coacoacho river flows through a wide and shallow channel full of 1 184 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [cbaf. tib. boulders, and discharges the waters of a largo lake, which boats cau ascend to with tho tide. Its shores aro wooded with spruce troos, and water may bo obtained near the western side of the entrance. At pre- sent, 1860, there is only one Canadian family, wh() tfside on the weit side ig in summer, fcl may either the inner or for it ; or by ■ E. ^ N., and /hen she may lo bay, but a I between the and ordinary liles westward omanosheebo, ja Romaine." Co the head of ter it at low y on the east e sea, being le low sandy entrance of d, the latter rocks, which point of the 1st. vestward of everaJ small berry point The east ) distance of arrow inlet, I water over nes shallow CHAP, Till.] WA8II-8HEECOOTAI DAY. — KEOASHKA BAY. 185 for 4 miles further, to the falls of a considerable river, where there is a trading post and salmon fishery of tlie HudHon Bay Company. This iu^t is completely open to winds from the southward and west- ward, and affords scarcely any shelter for the first 5 miles within Cloud> berry point. Vessels of considerable burthen might find shelter in it in time of need, but it is too intricate a 2>luce for the general purposes of navigation, or for any written directions to be of avail. Coasting schoonera which know where to look for all the ledges, enter it by keeping a persoa at the mast-head, or in the rigging. MvaqvASBO szviut, where there is a Hudson Bay Company trading and fishing post, is 4^ miles westward of Cloudberry point, and i» situated 3 miles within the w . point of a bay, full of small islets iiiul rocks. This river becomes rapid hort distance within the entrance; 6 fen, can 1)0 carried in at low \vn but it is a very intricate and diingeroua place ; useless excepting t ..; , or very small schooners. Il will be known by the houses Avluch are on tlio east side of the entrance, and also by a remarkable red and precipitous ridge of granite, about 200 feet high^ and about 2 miles to the westward of the river. lOABHXJL BAT. — Curlew point, at half a mile off which there are several low bare rocks, and ledges which always show, is 4-J miles to tile westward of Musquarro, and is the east point of Kegashka bay.* This bay, situated between Curlew and Kegashka points, is 3 mile^i wide, and 1^ miles deep. In the western half of the bay there are several small islets, too wide apart to afford much shelter from the sea. It is only in the north-west corner of the bay, within Kegashka point, that a vessel can be secure from southerly winds ; there is room there for several small schooners, but for only one vessel of the size of a sloop of war, and she must be moored with an open hawse to the eastward, with a third anchor on shore to the south-west, so as to be able to haul in close under the point Avhen it blows hard from the southward. The depth of water within the islets is from 4 to 6 fathoms, over fine sandy bottom. Alto- gether, this is a wild place, although small vessels may contrive to shelter themselves there sufficiently to run but little risk during the summer months. Kegashka point is formed by an island, separated from a rocky peninsula by a very narrow channel, dry at low water ; and tlm peninsula is united to the. mainland by a narrow sandy isthmus covered Avith grass* Both the island and peninsula are distinguished by being partly covered • See Flan of Eegaihka Bay, Na 1,139 ; scale, m «■ 3 incho. ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■^121 115 ly l££ £ US 12.0 u 11.25 ■ 1.4 1.6 l%0liogra[jiic ScMioes Carporatian aswMT wniTM MAM STRUT l,N.V. 14SM •7a-4S03 5r \ c 'f 186 GULF OF ST. LAWBENCE ; NOBTH COAST. [ohaf. tiu. with spioice trees. There are alBO a few spruce trees on an islet, three- quarters of a mile to the westward of the point, and as no other islands on this part of the coast are wooded, the baj may be recognized by that circumstance. There is a fine sandy beach, and low sandy cliffs in the north-west corner of the bay ; and there are also similar cliffs for about a mile to the westward of the isthmus above mentioned. This sandy tract is densely wooded with dwarf spruce, another circumstance which serves to distinguish this bay, and is the origin of its name, which signifies impenetrable woods. On a near approach the place will also be known by Green inland, which is of low granite covered with grass, and is the outermost and largest islet sheltering the bay : being about three cables' lengths in diameter, and situated three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of Kegashka point. There are several small islets and rocks within, and also to the eastward of Green island, and one small and low black islet between it and the inner part of Kegashka point. - - -. ivood saa ivater may be obtained without difficulty in the western part of Kegashka bay, where there are several Canadian families. Their houses are visible from the sea. They have gardens, and keep sheep and cattle ; and they also prosecute the fisheries and winter hunting. Bisacnows. — The safest channel into Kegashka bay is between the low black islet and Kegashka point, and is 340 yards wide, and carries 8 fathoms water. The other channels have dangers in them, but this is quite clear, and the only direction necessary, when coming from the westward, is to give the south extremity of Kegashka point a berth of a quarter of a mile, or to go no nearer than the depth of 8 fathoms : then rtin along the east side of the point, which is quite bold, leaving all the islets on the starboard hand. A distance of three-quarters of a mile on a N.E. ^N. course will lead to the narrow channel before mentioned, between the westernmost islet and the inner end of Kegashka point. Haul round the latter to the north-westward, at the distance of half a cable, and when within it, not more than the same distance, anchor in 5 fkthoms, and secure the vessel by mooring, as has been before mentioned. When approaching Kegashka from the eastward, give the low and small islets off Curlew point a berth of half a mile, to avoid the ledges off them, which dry at low water : then steer N.W. ^ N., or so as to pass outside of Green island, going no nearer than a cable's length. Continue on that course till the inner or north-east extremity of Kegashka point bears North, which will be a distance of rather more than 3^ miles from the ledges off Curlew point ; then haul in, and pass between the point and the westernmost islet, as before directed, giving the south side of that islet a berth of at least a cable's length. ••^-^"•~»-^--- "mr OBAP. Till.] KEGA8HKA BAY. — NATASHQUAN POINT. 187 Eegashka bay has this advantage, that there are no ledges or other dangers off its entrance : so that a vessel is no sooner outside of Kegashka point than she has a clear sea before her. affording shelter only for boats, is 3 miles to the westward of Eegashka bay. It has falls 40 feet high, and a fishing station of the Hudson Bay Company a mile within its entrance ; neither the falls nor the house can be seen from the sea. , . WATASB^VAV VOIWT. — ^At the distance of 2^ miles to the westward of Eegashka river, fine sandy beaches, in front of sandy cliffs, 70 or 80 feet high, and a country thickly wooded with spruce trees, commence and continue to Natashquan point, a distance of ld{ miles. Mont Joli, mentioned in all former remark books, has no existence, at least there is no mountain, nor even anything that deserves the name of a hill ; but near the termination of the sandy cliffs, which end at the south-west extremity of Natashquan point, the sandy ridge with spruce trees rises into a slight mound, a very little higher than the rest of the country. This is Mont Joli ; but so little remarkable in its appearance that wo should not have noticed it, had it not been for its name. Natashquan point, a remarkable sandy promontory, is the most southern point on the north coast of the Gulf to the eastward of the Seven islands, and seems naturally to separate the eastern division of the coast, which has been the subject of this Chapter, from that farther to the westward. As a concluding remark to the above account of the eastern division, it may be said that though there are few coasts more dangerous either to a vessel unacquainted with its nature, or unaware of its proximity in a dark night, or thick fog ; yet, with the assistance of the chart, due caution, and a constant use of the deep-sea lead, it may be approached with safety; and that a vessel may even stand close in to the outer rocks and breakers on a clear sunny day, provided there be a trusty person aloft to look out for shallow water, for the bottom can be seen in 4 or 5 fathoms of water. ^ nsBXWO nAMMM. — ^Parallel to the coast from Musquarro point to Natashquan point, and at distances varying from 6 to 11 miles, there are banks of sand, gravel, and broken shells, on which the depth of water is between 24 and 40 fathoms. There is more than 50 fathoms in some parts, between these banks and the shore. Codfish are often caught in abimdance upon these banks, principally by American schooners. OAVTSOW. — Eight miles W. by N. ^ N. from Eegashka point lies the. rocky shoal mentioned in former editions of this work, and recently examined by Commander J. Orlebar, R.N. It has only 2 feet water on it» and lies exactly in the line between Natashquan and Eegashka points. 188 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [ohjlf. mi. and is distant l^- miles S.S.W. from the entrance of a small stream named Long river. A vessel will avoid it by not going nearer to the shore than the depth of 17 fathoms. Another rocky shoal with 24 feet least water is reported to lie about 2 miles to the S.S.W. of Curlew point. ,., One and a-half miles to the S.W., from the south-west extremity of Natashquan point, lies a small Cod bank, with little more than 4 fathoms at low water, over gravel bottom. AavBOT of COAST. — From the south extremity of Natashquan point to Collins shoal, the outer danger off St. Genevieve, the easternmost of the islands, the course is N.W. by W., 52 miles. The coast included in this distance is low near the sea, rising a short distance back into mounds and ridges, but nowhere exceeding 400 feet in height. It is composed of primary rocks, with the exception of a sandy tract at the Agwanus and Nabesippi rivers. The sandy tracts are always thickly wooded with spruce trees, and the country generally is here less bare than it is farther to the eastward. The coast is broken into numerous coves and small bays, affording shelter everywhere to boats, and occasionally to very small schooners. The small and bare islets and rocks are innumerable along it, but nowhere extend farther out from the points of the mainland than 2 miles. When there is a heavy sea running, all these dangers show, or they can be seen from the mast-head in clear weather ; but under other cir- cumstances, the depth of 20 fathoms is as near to them as a vessel ought to approach, that depth being in many places not more than a mile from the outer ledges. The banks of sand, gravel, and broken shells, which extend off this coast for many miles, and the deep water channel between them and Anticostij have been already mentioned in page 83 ; and the soundings upon them are too irregular to admit of any other than the general de- scription there given of them. We must therefore refer to the charts, in which the various depths and nature of the bottom are given in such a way as cannot fail to be of great assistance to vessels navigating thi» channel. '* '^'-■.^- ■ - ■•■ '' ■ ■' . - '- ■ - ^^ '»i-.j.-< '-,-, - ii'jm OVMKMMTU and TXBBB.-^ i current down along the coast in westerly winds has also been mentioned in pages 28 and 34 ; its rate seldom exceeds half a knot, nnd is usually much less, so that a vessel can always make way to windward in moderate weather. In shore there are weak tidal streams too irregular to be depended upon. It is however important to remark, that the flood draws strongly into Natashquan river, and the bay at Little Natashquan ; while the ebb seta OH. TUX.] NATASHQUAN BIVEB. — LITTLE NATA8HQUAN HABBOUB. 189 strongly off Natashquan point to the south-east, and causes a very heavy sea upon the banks off it, in southerly winds. On approaching St. Genevieve, a strong in-draught of the flood towards the channel, between that island and the main, will be experienced ; and the ebb will be found setting strongly out in the contrary direction : that is, to the south-east. The rate of these streams seldom exceeds a mile per hour. WATASHQVAV wcvsm (the name signifying " where the seals land") enters the sea on the west side of Natauhquan point, and 3 miles north* westward from its south extremity. The mouth of the river, between low sandy points, is fully a mile wide, but nearly the whole of this space is occupied by a low sandy island, having narrow channels on either side of it. The northern channel is nearly dry at times, but the southern one has a depth of 6 feet at low water, and from 9 to 11 feet at high water, according to neap and spring tides. There is the same depth within, and small schooners may lie alongside the steep sandy bank, where the houses of th& Hudson Bay Company's trading and fishing post stand, on the south side of the river, half a mile within the entrance. The bar of sand, on which there is usually a heavy surf, extends out three-quarters of a mile, and is exceedingly steep to seaward, where 20 fathoms will be found within a quarter of a mile. Codfish are taken in great numbers off this bar in the month of June, and the river abounds with salmon. Above the trading post the river is full of sand-banks, dry at low water, and only navigable for boats for a few miles to the first rapids ; above which it is said to be lost in a great morass, about 12 miles inland from the entrance It discharges a great quantity of water in the spring of the year. The sandy beach continues for 3^ miles to the N.N.E. of the entrance, terminating at the mouth of a small stream, called the Little Natashquan, which admits boats only at high water, and which is close to the eastward of the harbour of the same name. '^^ VATASHQVAxr BASBOVS, formed by a number of islets and rocks, is only fit for vessels not exceeding 100 tons, although it has water enough for a sloop of war. The entrances, of which there are two, formed by a reef of rocks in the centre, are not more than 180 yards wide, between reefs, the extent of which under water cannot be seen, because the water is discoloured by the dark streams of the neighbouring rivers.* The depth that can be carried in at low water by the west channel is 8 fathoms, and 5 fathoms by that which is between the central reef and the islets on the east side. The space within the reefs in which vessels can ride in from 3 to 5 fathoms, over sand and mud bottom, is only a * See Flan of Little Nataahqoaa Harbour, No. 1,140 ; (oale^ m ss 4 inches. 190 'J vC/n GULF OP ST. LAWRENCE; NORTH COAST. [obat. ▼iii. quarter of a mile in diameter. This anchorage is defended by the main and islets from all winds excepting the S.W., in which direction there are reefs of rocks, some parts of which are always above water. In a strong S.W. wind, some sea comes over these reefs at high water, but never enough to endanger a vessel during the summer months. T'here are several rocky patches, with from 2^ to 3 fathoms off the harbour's mouth ; these, with the want of space to work in, and the difficulty of getting out with the prevailing southerly winds of summer, render this place of little use for the general purposes of navigation ; but it is a valuable harbour for the fishermen, whose schooners of from 30 to 100 tons are well suited to the size and nature of the place, which is contiguous to excellent fishing ground, and affords every facility for drying fish. sntaoTiom. — The entrance of Little Natashquan harbour bears N. by E., 4 miles, from the southern entrance of Natashquan river, and a vessel, being off the bar of that river in 20 fathoms, should steer N.E. by N. nearly parallel to the sandy beach. When she has run rather more than 3 miles, and has decreased her depth to 12 fathoms, she will be about half a mile from, and will see the islets and rocks, which, commencing at the termination of the sandy beach, lie off the entrance of Little Natashquan stream, and form the east side of the entrance to the harbour. The westernmost of these islets is much larger than those which lie farther to the south-east, between it and the termination of the sandy beach. Bring the west point of that island to bear N.E by N., in 12 fathoms water» and the southernmost of the rocks at the termination of the sandy beach will bear E ^ N. From this position, by ascending the rigging for the purpose, the reef will be made out on the west side of the harbour, which extends rather more than half a mile, S.W. by S. from a rather high and round-backed islet of grey granite, with a wooden cross upon it. This islet will bear N. by E. ^ E. from the position above indicated, and the central reef, some part of which is always above water, will be seen between it and the islets and the point of the main, which, together, form the east side of the harbour. Steer N. by E. ^ E. for the islet with the cross on it, until abreast of the outer part of the reef to the westward which will be distant a long cable, and the vessel will be in about 7 fathoms water. Alter the course now sufficiently to the eastward, to pass on that side of the central reef which mny be preferred, giving its rocks above water a berth of not less than 120 yards, if the west channel is taken. The central reef is quite bold to the southward, and also on its east side, so that it may be approached within 40 yards when entering by the east channel ; but bear in mind, in hauling round its north and north-east ends, that it our. Tin.] LITTLE NATA8HQU AN HABBOUB. — AGWANUS BIVEB. 191 extends 140 yards under water from the rocks, which always show, towards the centre of the harbour. The best berth to anchor in is nearly in the centre of the harbour, in 4 fathoms, sand and mud bottom, with the rocks above water of the central reef, bearing S.S.W. ^ W., distant 360 yards, and the cross N.W. by W. ^ W. ■:■. « i-.^n ('t'WASHTAHrooXA* BAT| 5 miles north-westward of Little Natash- qaan, is full of small islets, rocks, and ledges, affording shelter to shallops and boats. It is an intricate and dangerous place, and may be known by Shag islet, a large black rock lying off it, and farther out than the rest, being 1^ miles S.S.E. from the projecting point of the main. u- '.-..> AOWJunni wrws* 10 miles north-westward of Little Natashquan^ is a large stream, having rapids and falls 1^ miles from the entrance, which is narrow, and has only 6 feet in it at low water. There is no bar, but many small rocks, both above and under water, lie off its mouth to the distance of 1^ miles, and render the approach extremely dangerous. The east point of entrance is of rock, the other of sand, and there is a small islet, three-quarters of a mile from the river's mouth. From 9 to 12 feet can be carried up to this islet, above which the river expands into a basin^ half a mile wide, and carrying 5 fathoms close up to the foot of the rapids. There is sandy beach for 1^ miles to the eastward of this river, and also westward of it to Nabesippi. - Pif Bivas, 5 miles north-westward from the Agwanus, enters the sea at the extremity of a sandy point, 17^ miles N.W. ^ N. from the entrance of Natashquan river. The Nabesippi is a much smaller river than the Agwanus, and will only admit boats in fine weather. On the west bank, a short distance within the entrance, stands a house and store, being a trading post of the Hudson Bay Company, which can be readily seen from the sea. lOO, mWHSOWXATAWaa, ana WASHATITAOV- i, are small bays, full of small islets and rocks, which render their entrances so difficult and dangerous that no directions would be of the least avail. They are occasionally, but not often, entered by small coasting schooners intimately acquainted with the coast, and none but those who know every rock and ledge could either distinguish them or take a vessel in. The first named is open to the south-east. The second less intricate than the other two, is 2 cables wide, with 5 fathoms water in the entrance, and within ; it is open to southerly winds, but is nevertheless tolerably secure for small craft, which may lie close to the rocks. The * Crooked. t Man'i. 192 OULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [cmAr. rm. third is 1^ miles wide, with a chain of rocks above and under water across its mouth, not large enough, or close enough to afford much shelter, yet too close and too numerous for a vessel to find her way through without great difficulty and danger ; 3 fathoms can be carried in, and there are 4 and 5 fathoms within. c if .-i ■ ^ ,..., ,<,:f •■.,<■" ■-• lOO, bearing N.W. by W. 18 miles from the Nabesippi river, and E.S.E. 14 miles from St. Genevieve island, is a hill of granite, 127 feet high, and bare of trees. It is a peninsula^ but appears like an islet, higher than the rest, when seen in a vessel fVom a distance. There is a fishing post of the Hudson Bay Company in a cove amongthe rocks, to the westward of it. Watcheeshoo and the Saddle hill, which is 374 feet high above the sea, are very remarkable, and serve to point out to a vessel her position off the coast. The latter is situated 6 miles inland from the former, in a north direction. qvaTAOBOO-KAmoouAOOW, aad VBAOsraBAX, are two con- tiguous bays, 4 miles north-westward of Watcheeshoo. The first, which is the most easternmost, is 2^ miles wide, and carries from 3 to 14 fathoms water, but so full of rocks and ledges as to be useless, excepting to the smallest schooners ; it is open to the westward. The other is a much smaller bay, capable of affording shelter only to boats, and open to the southward. ,^ . ,^. ■ - •■ „,; .; --.., ,;.,--,■,,, .,-.-. waBTSTAT SAT is full of rocks, of no use to vessels, because of the ledges under water off its entrance, and also within. Four fathoms can be carried into this bay, which is not used even by small craft, because there is an excellent harbour within St. Genevieve island, the south-east point of which is distant only 3 miles from it, in a S.W. by W. direction. , •i-Vf ;<',!-*; > The BnwOAjr uxjurss are of limestone, containing ammonites, orthoceratites, and other organic remains, many of which are similar to those of Anticosti. This limestone dips slightly to the southward, so that the islands are bold, and frequently cli£^, on their north, east, and west sides, whilst they are low and shelving towards the south, in which direction the reefs of flat limestone and other dangers exist. Ancient beaches, formed of water- worn pebbles of limestone, and flower-pot rocks, precisely similar to those which are forming at present out of cliffs that are washed by the waves, are met with in most of the islands, far above the reach of the highest tides.* * 5iM Charts of Miaganltlanda, Noa. 1,1SS, 1,199 ; 8calM,Ms:0'8of iaoh. OBAF. Till.] MINOAN ISLANDS. 193 The general cbaracter of these highlands is low, they are estimated nowhere to attain an elevation exceeding 300 foct above the sea, and aro in general much lower. They possess very little soil, but nevertheless are thickly wooded with spruce, birch, and poplar, on the side towards the mainland ; though towards the sea, barren tracts often occur, composed either of bore limestone, or of banks and ridges of limestone gravel. The coast of the mainland, from St. John liver to Mingan river, is of sand and clay, low and thickly wooded, and with a fine sandy beach. Farther eastward the shore is sometimes of granite, and at others of lime- stone, the latter rock lying immediately over the former. Mount St. John, 1,416 feet high, described in page 211, is the highest point of the mainland in this neighbourhood. There are other hills, rising 1000 feet above the sea, about 18 miles farther eastward, but 6 or 7 miles back from the sea, and nearly opposite Quarry island. With these exceptions, the main is low, and it is particularly so abreast the Eastern islands, where the hills are far back in the country. Formerly for want of good charts of these islands, they were not much frequented by other than small coasting or fishing vessels, and the danger of the navigation among them has been much exaggerated. With the exception of the dangerous rocks off St. Genevieve and Hunting islands, and a shoal to the westward of Clear Water point, there are no detav.'ied shoals outside the line joining the outer points of the islands, nor do the reefs of ilat limestone extend farther out from the high water than three-quarters of a mile in any part. The principal channels between the islands, and between them and the main, may be easily navigated with the assistance of the present Admiralty charts, and there are several excellent harbours capable of admitting the largest vessels. There are twenty-nine of these islands, in none of which are there any inhabitants ; some of them are very small, ar: 1 the largest does not exceed 11 or 12 miles in circumference. They aro arranged parallel to the coast, and extend along it 45 miles from St. Genevieve island, at the eastern end, to the Ferroquets at the western end of the chain. f -'< f Clear Water point, which is 14 miles to the westward of St. Genevieve, projects out so as to interrupt the continuation of the chain of islands, and thus separates them into two divisions, the easternmost of which has been called the Esquimaux islands, a name which should be confined to the island properly so called in the western division. We shall consider them all as the Mingan islands, and treat first of the eastern division. ■applies of wood and water can readily be obtained from the principal of the Mingan islands ; wild berries are abundant in their season, and so [81. L.]— VOL. I. N 194 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COABT. [oiur. Tin. are different kinds of wild fowl. Quadrupeda are scarce, but there are plenty of seals upon the limestone reefs, and a few codfish off the coast. Tlie Tiaas are not strong among the Mingan islands, never exceeding a knot, excepting *n very narrow channels. They are often rendered irregular by the winds, but in fine settled weather there is a constant alternation of the streams of flood and ebb between the island and the main, and also within the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the outer, or southern shores of the islands. The time of high water on the full and change days, and the rise of the tides, will be given for the principal harbours. ■«. onravsava, the eaatemmost of the Mingan islands, is about 6 miles in circumference. Its north-east point is a bluff headland, being the termination in that direction of the highest part of the island, which is about 200 feet above the sea, and slopes irregularly down to the south- ward. Mount St. Genevieve is an isolated table hill on the mainland, of limestone, 332 feet above the sea at high water, resting on the granite about a mile inward, and bearing N. ^ E., rather more than 2 miles from the north-east point of the island. This mountain, and the high north- east point of the island, distinctly point out to a vessel at sea the position of the channel between the island and the main. « v n and aoww aooxa.— There are two patches of rocks which render it necessary to approach the island of St. Genevieve with caution, viz., the Saints, and the Bowen rocks. . The Saints are two low and bare rocks, lying rather more than half a mile to the southward of St. Genevieve. There is a channel carrying 5 fathoms water, but with foul ground, between them and the island ; and reefs under water extend from each of them fully 3 cables to the south, south-east, and south-west. The N.W. Bowen rock, with 3 feet least water, lies 1^ miles E. by S. ^ S. from the eastern Saint, and with the south side of the latter on with the centre of the western Saint. The S.E. Bowen rock, with 6 feet least water, lies S.E. ^ S. two-thirds of a mile from the north-west Bowen rock, and S.E. by E. ^ E., If miles, from the eastern Saint, which is just open to the northward of the western Saint. These very dangerous rocks lie nearly in a line from the south 'Cast point of St. Genevieve, at the distance of 1^ and 2 miles, respectively. There is very deep water between and close to them, and also for rather more than a mile to the southward of them and the Saints. The soundings are here extremely irregular, varying from 4 to 6 fathom, rock, to 43 CHAP. Till.] MINOAN ISLANDS ; ST. OENEVIBVE HARBOUR. 195 fathoms, aand, sometimes in a single cast of the lead, dangerous part should be avoided by vessels. The whole of thii w, the next vrestwurd of St. Genevieve, is low, thickly wooded, broken into many covch, fringed with small islets and rocks on all sides, excepting towards the mainland, and is about 1 1 miles in circumference. Its longest diameter is parallel to the coast, and about 4 miles. Off its southowcst point, and extending to the distance of 1^ miles, lie Wood and Gun islands, leaving no passage between, and having reefs running out from them 3 cables to the southward. They are both low, and the latter is bare of trees, but covered with grass and peat, in which innumerable puffins burrow and rear their young. moox. always above water, lies rather more than a mile to to the southward, from near the centre of the southern coast of Hunting island ; it would be highly imprudent for any ship to attempt a passage between it and the islnnd, as there arc many ledges scattered along the southern side of the island, and the Garde is itself the termination of a long ridge of sunken rocks. The south-eastern end of the is. and is like- wise beset with several reefs, some of which extend three-qua/ters of a mile to the southward. oo&uors SHOAX, a small patch of rocks, with 15 feet least water, lies South 2| miles from the south-east point of Hunting island. From this dangerous shoal, the east point of St. Genevieve is just open to the east- ward of the western Saint, bearing N.E. •J N., and the north point of Wood island is in line with the south side of the Garde rock, N.W. OAVTZOV. — ^Between Collins shoal and the reefs off the south-east point of Hunting island, the soundings are irregular, from 4 to 17 fathoms over rocky bottom, and vessels should not pa«s there, as in such a place it was impossible to be sure of having discovered every point of rock which may approach a few feet nearer the surface than the rest, '■« • < ST. anrmvssva and BBTOBBwnr babboubs.— The first of these harbours is situated between St. Genevieve island and the mainland, and the second, between Hunting island and the main. Both are excellent harbours, not difficult of access or egress with the assistance of the Admiralty chart, and fit for the lai'gest ships. ^rood and ivater may be obtained ; the latter from small streams, either on the main or on the islands. - BZBBOTZOirs. — ^There are two channels leading to these harbours ; namely, the East, and the Saiuta channels. The East channel is the best V, u 196 GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [ONAr. Tin. if^ with oftstcrly wlndn, nnd may !•« UHod with inodcrnto wcntorly windii durinn^ tlio flood tido, hy vohh(>Ii4 not t(M> lar;(o to work in Huch nnrrow chnnnulH, but they inuHt hu ciiroful in thuir boards to the northward, cupccially in thnt towurdH Ludgo point. ay BAST OBAirsraXi. — To enter by the KiiHt ehunnel, with nn catttcrly wind. — Being nt n diHtnnco iVoni Kt. Oenuviuve iHland, of not Iohh than 3 milcH, to bo Huro tiiut tiie vcshoI Ih furtlier out than Dowon rocltH, bring tlio nortli-cttHt point of St. Ciencviovo in one witli Indian i>oint, (o low wooded point of the main, forming tlio eunt point of I'iilago bay,) bearing N.W. by N. liun in with thin mark on, and it will lead half a milo to tho eastward of tho Bowen rocks, and will paHH them in between 20 and 80 fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand and coral. When tho Houth-east point of St. Genevieve and tho west Saint come in one, steer a little to tho northward, so as not to go too near a flat shoal, which extends nearly 3 cables from tho cost side of St. Oenovicvo. Give tho north-east point of St. Genevieve a berth of a cable's length, and passing as close to tho shingly north point of that island as is prudent, anchor in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, half way between tho latter and Anchor island, which will bo seen lying close within tho north-west point of St. Genevieve. The distance across from tho north-cast ])oint of St. Genevieve to tho main is about a mile, but the navigable breadth of the entrance is reduced to half a mile, by tho rocks and shoal water off Lodge point, which is com- posed of numerous rocks of granite close together. The shoal water extends from Ledge point, directly across Pillage bay, to Partridge point, and a vessel must not approach these shoals nearer than 7 fathoms. If wishing to proceed to Betchowun harbour, instead of anchoring at St. Genevieve, pass to the northward of Anchor island, which is quite bold on that side, and the entrance of Betchewun (between the north point of Hunting island and Partridge point) will be seen bearing W. by N. ; Mount Partridge, on the north-east side of the point of the same name, will be easily recognised, being a wooded and steep-sided hill, similar to, but much lower and smaller tlian Mount St. Genevieve. The north point of Hunting island is also a cliify mound, with a cove on its eastern side. It is quite bold, and a vessel must pass close to it, to avoid tho shoal oiT Partridge point, which extends a full quarter of a mile to the southward, and diminishes the navigable breadth of the entrance to 3^ cables' lengths. When in tho entrance, a low islet will be seen in the centre of the harbour; steer for it, and anchor with it bearing W. by N., and distant one-third of a mile. The depth of water in the harbour is from 9 to 18 fathoms, over mudbottom. s;« ,if i aur. Till.] MINGAN ISLANDS ; DBTCHEWUN HARBOUR. 197 Mf UJkMMTU aUMMmat, — To enter thoiio harbours by tho Sftintn chnnnol, bring tho wont {tointM of St. Ooiu vicvo and Anchor iolanilH in one, bearing North, at a diHtanco of not Iohs than 5 miiuH from tho former, to bo suro that tho voBBol i» outsido of Collinit uhoal. Uun in upon thin leadin>^ mark, until tho north Hides of tho two Saints como in one, bearing E. by S. | S. Tho east sides of Mount Partridge and of Hunting inland (or rather of an island joined to it at low water) will como in ono at tho samo timo, bearing N. W. by N. ^ N. ; steer upon this last^nnmod lending mark (to avoid a reef which extends 2} cables' lengths from the south-west point of St. GcnovioTo), until tho cast side of Mount St. Genevieve, seen over tho sandy south-east point of Anchor inland, comon in one with tho north- west point of St. Genevieve iwland, bearing N.N.K. ^ E. From tlicnco by steering North, it will loud in through tho ccntro of tho channel between St. Gonovicvo and Hunting iulandH, and tho vessel may either proceed to St. Genevieve harl)our, round Anchor island, giving its west end a borth of 2 cables' lengths, or to Butchowun harbour along tho north-east sido of Hunting island, which is bold-to. Tho directions just given for tho Saints channel will lead a vessel in between tho dangers off St. Genevieve and Hunting islands, in not less than 20 fathoms water, and she will not have a less depth until mo is in OB far as Anchor island. Tho breadth of tho channel between tho shoal water off tho Saints, and tho shonis off the south-oaut point of Hunting island, is a mile. It diminishes to half a mile between tho reef off tho south-west point of St. Gonevievo and tho eant end of Hunting island, which is the narrowest part of the channel. Within this narrowest part, tho ground becomes good for anchoring, as it is everywhere between St. Genevieve and Betchowun harbours. Indeed, so little sea comes in that tho whole space may bo considered as a harbour capable of holding a great number of vessels of tho largest draught. There is an inner harbour at Betchowun, to tho westward of the low islet which has been mentioned, but from thenco there io no channel, ex- cepting for boats, to pass out to tho westward between Hunting island and the main. , : . . Tl9as. — ^It is high water, full and change, in Betchowun harbour at llh. 30m. ; ordinary springs rise 5 feet, and neaps 3 feet. The tides between St. Genevieve and Hunting islands, and the main- land, are much influenced by the winds ; but their rates seldom amount to a knot at any time, and are usually much less, excepting through the shallow and narrow channel at the west end of Betchowun harbour, where there is at times a complete rapid. ; .^ . f.i trwftr*-*** SS&AWBf the next westward of Hunting island, is 3 miles long, parallel to the coast, and 1^ miles wide. It ia about 200 feet high, 198 GULF OF ST. LAWRINCB ; NORTH COAST. [chap. tiii. bold, and free from shoals ; but at the distance of three-quarters of a mile South from its east point there is a patch of rocky ground on which no less than 5 fathoms have been found, but which had better be avoided by vessels of large draught. 9vmm BAT.— The east point of Charles island bears N.W. by W., nearly 2^ miles from the west point of Gun island. The former of these points is quite bold, and so is the latter to the north-west ; but to the south-west it has a reef extending to the distance of 2 cables' lengths. Between them is the entrance to Puffin bay, which is open to southerly winds. Within the east point of Charles island, and half way towards Shoal cove, there is good anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud bottom, at the distance of 2 cables from the island ; but the south-east winds send in a considerable swell. In the north-east corner of this bay is the narrow entrance (between shoals off Bagg point and Hunting island) to Ragg bay, which has tolerable anchorage in its north-west part, but has very deep water on the side towards Hunting island, and is separated from the western part of Betchewun harbour by the shoal and narrow channel for boats between the island and the main, mentioned in the last page. lOUBf between Charles island and the main, though very narrow is quite secure, and deep enough for vessels of any size, but its entrances are only 160 yards wide. Within, the harbour expands to a quarter of a mile wide by three-quarters of a mile in length, parallel to the shore. Both entrances carry a depth of 7 fathoms, but a vessel must pass over 4 fathoms if she enters from the eastward, through Puffin bay. The depth within the harbour is from 4 to 6^ fathoms, with mud bottom. Strong winds occasionally cause the tides to run at the rate of 2 knots iri the entirances of the harbour, but in general there is only a weak stream with either tide. r. — Whale island, lying me quarter of a mile from the east side of Ainmonite point, and with shoal water between them, i^ distant 8 cables to the westward of Charles island. Both islands are bold and clifiy, and Trilobite bay is between them with excellent ;.nchorage, well sheltered from all but southerly winds. The only danger to bo avoided when working into this bay is a reef off Ammonite point, which includes a small islet, and extends half a mile off shore. The mark to clear this reef, when running along the coast, is to keep Gun island open to the southward of Charles island, and when hauling in from the west- ward into Trilobite bay, keep the north point of Charles well open to the southward of Whale island. ,..u-i. '<■ '■• ,;..\ r , .;j? ,?v;!^rr ssfi cs ^-nhf^^ ^^j; Till. CHAP. TIM.] MINGAN ISLANDS; CHARLES HARBOUR. 199 BXRBCXZOlirs. — To enter Charles harbour from Fufiin bay, bring the north east point of Charles island, which is high and clifiy, to bear N.W., then steer for it, and give it a berth of between 1 and 1| cables' lengths, as the vessel hauls round it to the westward into the harbour. To enter from Trilobite bay, give the north-west point of Charles island a berth of between 120 and 280 yards, as the vessel hauls round it to S.E. by E. into the harbour. All the way from the eastern narrow entrance into Charles harbour there is a broad zone of shoal water, which curves round parallel to the mainland till it joins Whale ibland, and nearly fills up all the north-west part of Trilobite bay, rendering the entrance of the harbour too narrow for convenient or general use. O&BAJt-WATBB 90XKV, about 2 milcs westward of Ammonite point, and 2^ miles westward of Whale island, is low, and the shoal water does not extend more than a quarter of a mile off it to the southward. The coast, between this point and Esquimaux point, forms a large bay, along which there are high and conspicuous cliffs of sand and clay, that dis- tinguish this part of the coast to a vessel at sea. The shoal water extends a considerable distance from the shore all around this bay, and abreast Sea Cow island the 3 fathoms line of soundings is a mile out from the sandy beach. • „ .r.,* i •.:..•? :r^>i;;, iXumAM-vrATWM 8BOA&8. — West, 1^ miles from Clear- water point, lies a rocky 3 fathoms shoal, and there are three others, with 2 fathoms, lying to the northward of the first, and in a line from the point, towards Walrus island ; the outer and westernmost of them being rather more than 2 miles from the point. The mark for the outermost of these shoals is the south side of the high land of Niapisca island in one with the south point of Gull island, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. ; or the north point of Fright island on with the south side of Esquimaux island, and open to the southward of Green island, bearing N.W. ^ W. To pass outside these shoals, at the distance of half a mile, keep the south points of Gull and Fright islands in one, bearing N.W. | W. oovr and ^^AZJtvs XB&AVDB. — Walrus island lies W.N.W. 4 miles from Clear-water point, and Sea Cow island is close to the north- east of it. The two islands together cover the space of 1-^ miles in a north-east direction, and are steep and precipitous, excepting to the southward, in which direction the reef off Sea Cow island extends three quarters of a mile, and that of Walrus island 2 cables' lengths. ■■A OO'V owtMMWMb, — There is a clear channel, named Walrus, to the westward of the Sea Cow and Wali'us islands, and also between them 200 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap. viu. and the Clear-water shoals. This latter channel, named Sea Cow, is 1^ miles wide, and, although not the best, may be used in proceeding to Esquimaux harbour from the eastward, by running upon the leading mark which has been given for clearing the shoals to the westward of Clear- water point, until the east side of Esquimaux and Walrus islands come iu one. Then steer for the north-oast side of Sea Cow island, and haul round it, at the distance of not less than 2 cables to the north-westward for the east entrance of the harbour. osaaw XBibAVS, small, low, covered with grass, with reefs stretching north and south, nearly 3 cables' lengths, but bold to the east and west, lies nearly a mile W.N.W. from Walrus island, and a third of a mile E.S.E. from Esquimaux island. om& Z8&AirB lies W. ^ S. a mile from Green island, which it resembles, excepting that it is rather smaller. It is distant half a mile to the southward from the south-east point of Esquimaux island, but there is no passage for ships between them. The south point of Gull island is bold, and may safely be passed at the distance of 2 cables. asQVZKAVX saxukant, 2| miles long, parallel to the coast, and 1| miles wide, is 200 or 250 feet high towards its north side, sloping to the southward. From its south-west point a shoal extends towards Fright island, which also has a shoal stretching towards Esquimaux island. The channel between these, leading north-eastward towards Esquimaux harbour (see page 199), is nearly 4 cables wide, with very deep water, but as there are no leading marks for it, and the reefs on either side arc extremely dangerous, it cannot be recommended. :<: I TUxaXT is&Ain> is nearly a mile from the west point of Esquimaux island, and about two-thirds of a mile long, in a north-east direction ; it is bold on the south and south-west, on which sides vessels may pass at a cable's length, but reefs extend off it to the eastward, and also off its north-east and north-west points, to the distance of 3 cables. ■^Vi^^i:','t^:m:'': QVnr ISKAWB lies within, or N.E. by N. from Fright island, from which it is distant a short half mile : it is nearly 1^^ miles long, in a N.N.E. direction, and its shores are bold, with the exception of a broad reef running out half a mile to the W.N.W, from its north point. I^ZOHT CHAmaZi is deep, but only 2 cables wide, between Quin island and the reefs off Fright island. It cannot be recommended, but might be used in case of necessity with a westerly wind for proceeding to 01UP.TIU.J BflNOAN islands; ESQUIMAUX HABBOUR. 201 Esquimaux harbour, by hauling up to the east of Niapisca island till the south end of Quin island comes in one with the south side of the cove in Esquimaux island, bearing E.S.E., then steering so as to pass close round the south point of Quin island, which is quite bold, and thence E. by N., 2 miles to the harbour. Qvnr oxAJnrBXi is the best for vessels approaching Esquimaux harbour from the westward. It is two-thirds of a mile wide between Quin island and Fointe aux Morts, but reefs on either side reduce the navigable breadth to less than half a mile. The depth in this channel is from 5 to 7 fathoms over rocky, gravelly, and sandy bottom. The shool water extends only to the distance of a cable fi'om the island, but off Pointe aux Morts, and the smuU islets to the westward of it, the reefs extend to the distance of 2 cables to the southward. lASBomt lies between the north and north-east points of Esquimaux island, and between that island and the mainland ; the island is 4 cables from Esquimaux point, which bounds the north-east part of the harbour. Esquimaux point, having the entrance of a small river on its west side, consists of sand, and is quite bold to the south-west, although shoals extend from it across the bays on either side, as has been mentioned. The north and north-cast points of Esquimaux island are also bold, and may be passed at the distance of 140 yards by the largest ships. The depth within thiij secure harbour is from 5 to 15 fathoms, over a sandy bottom. The space in which vessels may anchor is nearly 1^ miles long, in a N.W. ■^ W. direction, which is the bearing of the points of the island from each other, and the average breadth of the harbour is 4 cables. There is therefore room for a great number of vessels, which, if they anchor well over towards the island, (that is, within the line joining its north and north-east points, and in not more than 11 fathoms water,) will be sheltered from all winds. Water. — Supplies of good water may be procured from the river at Esquimaux point, or from small streams on the island, and wood is plentiful. BIMOTXOVS. — Brief directions have been already given for Sea Cow, Fright and Quin channels, leading to Esquimaux harbour. We shall now describe the best channels from the eastward and westward. my IRTAURVS otUkMmwou. — Walrus channel, between Walrus and Green islands, is the best with easterly winds. It is three-quarters of a mile wide, with 8 fathoms least water, and it is only necessary to give either island a berth of 2 cables to be clear of all dangers. Being 2 or 3 miles QUtside of these islands, bring the north-east point of Esquimaux island 202 GULP OP ST. LAWRENCE; NORTH COAST. [chat, viii, to appear about half-way between the two islandti above mentioned as forming the channel, and it will bear about Norti.. Steer for it, and, giving it a berth of a cable, haul round it to the north-westward into the harbour, and anchor in the depth and position which has been recommended. My ariAVXSOA OBAXiraxi. — ^Niapisca channel is the best with westerly winds. Passing in to the northward, between Niapisca and Fright islands, it leads to the entrance of Quin channel, and thence eastward to the harbour. The dangers to be avoided in this channel, besides the reefs off Fright and Quin islands already mentioned, are the reefs of flat limestone extending half a mile out from the south and south-east points of Niapisca island. Between those points, a remarkable group of flower- pot rocks will be seen standing on the limestone just above high- water mark. From the east point of the island, which is the south point of a bay, another reef runs out half a mile to the N.E. by E., but there is ample space between these reefs and Fright island, the channel being over a mile wide in the narrowest part, and carries between 30 und 40 fathoms water. .: ' ; .,- :i^ v -^ t^ < In running for this channel from the westward, observe that the leading mark for clearing the south reef of Niapisca island by more than 2 cables' lengths is the north-west point of Fright island in one with the south end of Quin island. Do not, therefore, open those islands clear of each other until Moniac island (bearing N. ^ £. 2^ miles from the nearest point of Niapisca) is brought in sight to the eastward of Niapisca. Having done so, haul in through the channel, steering N.N.E. ^ E., and when Moutange island (next westward of Moniac) opens to the northward of Niapisca, the vessel will be clear of the N.E. by E. reef off the east point above mentioned. Haul up now, if necessary, to clear the reef, which projects half a mile W.N.W. from the north point of Quin island, until the north point of Esquimaux island is not only open to the northward of Quin island, but also the north point of Sea Cow island is open to the northward of Esquimaux island. Run in between Quin island and the main, with the last-named marks just open, bearing about S.E. | E., and they will lead past the north point of Quin island, at the distance of about 2 cables. It must be borne in mind that the mark for the shoals off Pointe aux Morts, and the small islets westward of it, is the north and north-east points of Esquimaux island in one, bearing S.E. '^ E. ; if a vessel opens them before she is as far to the eastward as Quin island, she will be ashore. Having passed Quin island, continue the course towards the north point of Esquimaux island, and haul round it to the south-eastward into Esquimaux harbour. ? r.i>^-i/-i«>:i->:''?^''Ji :;4j 7,thi-'*-.i'4>!iai' i^^^ 7 CHAP. Tin.] .n MlfiQAfi ISLANDS; QUARRY COVE. 203 TZSas. — It is high water, full and change, in Esquimaux harbour at about Oh. 30m., and the rise at springs is 6 feet, and at neaps 3^ feet. The tides usually run at the rate of about one knot through Esquimaux harbour, the flood coming round Clear- water point from the eastward, and passing to the westward between Quin island and the main. The ebb flows in the contrary direction. The flood also draws in between Fright and Niapisca islands, and the ebb sets out through the same channel. But these streams are much influenced, both in their rate and duration, by the winds, and the ebb is much accelerated by westerly winds in Esquimaux harbour, running there at times fully 2 knots. naoJL isiiJUrB, the reefs of which have >«oen already mentioned, is rather more than 2 miles long, north and t-outh, is only partially wooded, and has three principal hills, not exceeding 200 feet high. QVASST xaxJUTB, nearly 2^ miles long, parallel to the coast, and about the same height as Niapisca, is separated from the latter by a channel nearly 4 cables wide, with a small islet in it, but no safe passage for shipping, because of a shoal in the bay to the southward, and of a reef which stretches beyond the small islet. Other reefs also run out one- third of a mile from the west side of Niapisca, and from the south side of Quarry island. QVABXT oova is on the north side of Quarry island, and two-thirds of a mile to the north-westward of the east end of the island. It is about 2^ cables wide, and 4 cables deep, with 22 fathoms water in the entrance, shoaling gradually to 5 fathoms with mud bottom close to its head. The islands and shoals along the mainland are distant only 3 miles to the northward of this cove, which thus becomes a completely land-locked, though very small, harbour. No other directions are requisite than keeping the west side nearest on board in entering, and to anchor near the centre in 9 or 10 fathoms. a^i%■ - ^ •• • u* OKAT. Till.] MING IN islands; MIMAN HARBOUR. 207 JAVB &ABX mmmr, iving 3^ miles N.W. by W. of Moutange island, 2^ miles E.S.E. from Hr^-bour island, and rather more than a mile from the mainland, is small a' d low, but always above water. The shoal water does not extend off it i bovo a cable's length, and there is a clear channel with deep water on ill sides of it ; but there is a rocky patch, with 6 fathoms water, I^ ailes from it, on a line towards the south side of Moutange island. This shoal water has not been particularly examined, and should therefore be avoided. lovs is the narrow and well-sheltered space between Harbour island and the mainland, which last is low and has a fine sandy beach, while the island is of limestone, about 100 feet in height, pre- cipitous and bold towards the hai'bour, but shelving and shoal to the southward to the distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore. The length of the island is 2 miles, its greatest breadth does not amount to half a mile, and it is thickly wooded. The reefs off the east and west ends of the island, and which are the principal things to guard against in entering the harbour, extend neai'ly a quarter of a mile out from the high-water mark. The mainland recedes from the island in the eastern part of the harbour, which would, in consequence, be exposed to easterly winds, if it were not for a sandy shoal, dry at low water, which extends 7 cables out from the entrance of the Mingan river. This river is only capable of admitting boats at high water, and its mouth is opposite the east end of the island. The eastern entrance of the harbour, between the above sandy shoal and the island, is 2 cables wide, the western entrar ->e between the mainland and the island is If cables wide, the whole breadth in both entrances being in deep water. The space within, in which vessels may anchor in safety, is about a mile long by rather more than a quarter of a mile wide, with plenty of water for the largest ships, over a bottom of fine sand. Although these entrances are so narrow, there is little difi^culty in taking a vessel in of the size of a sloop of war, and large frig&Les have occasionally visited the harbour. sntBOTXOirs. — In approaching Mingan harbour from the eastward, bring the north or inner side of Harbour island to bear N.W. ^ N., and the houses of the Hudson Bay Company's post ought then to appear open fully their own breadth to the northward of the island. Steer for those houses so open, leaving the east end of the island 1^ cables to the south- ward, or to port, and taking core to keep the south side of the sandy point of the main, which forms the western entrance of the harbour, shut in behind the north side of the island, for when they are in one the vessel 208 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE; NORTH COAST. [our. Tin. will bo on shoro on tho ftnndy dhonl ofF Mlngan rivor. Aftor the east end of the inland is posHod, run along its north Hide at the distance of n cable, and choose a berth anywhere near tho centre of the harbour, in from 9 to 13 fathoms, sand bottom. When running for tho harbour from tho westward, run in towards the sandy beach of tho mainland at the distance of three-quarters of a mile tu the westward of the island, until the sandy point of the mainland, which forms the west end of the harbour, comes in one with the face of tho clay cliffs, to the eastward of the Hudson Bay Company's houses, bearing E. by S., or until tho depth is 11 fathoms. Run upon this mark along the beach, and give the above sandy point of the mainland a berth of half a cable's length as the vessel passes into the harbour, and choose a berth as before directed. Mingan harbour is quite secure in all winds, and, like Esquimaux harbour, it has this great advantage, that vessels can enter or leave it either with easterly or westerly winds. The SAWKS of somrBiaros, which extend off the Mingan islands towards Anticosti, have been already mentioned in page 32, and it is only necessary to add here, that their southern edge, in 50 fathoms water, is no less than 5 miles off from tho islands, and that the banks become wider, or extend farther off, as we proceed to the westward There is much greater depth of water in some of the channels between the islands than there is on these banks, as will be seen by the chart. From Long point, a broad beach of fine sand reaches to the river St. John, and the chart will show that an irregular band of shoal water lies outside of this beach, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile. ::;^i■:r^ L";^is.-:.i«.jt:\^:. ;, > !■ i, ■ '.:f.' .H*.^'- ^flPTw'' ''AT ■ :»v« . «,»>, i'^,\ 209 *i^ • ' CHAPTER IX. GULP AND RIVER OP ST. LAWRENCE, NORTH COAST.— RIVER ST. JOHN TO POINT DB MONTS; AND FROM THENCE TO LITTLE BERGERON COVE NEAR THE RIVER SAOUENAY. Variation 27V* to 19° Win in 186U. ■T. 70HW. — Thia large stream disembogues on the northern shore of the Gulf, at 6^ miles N.W. by N. from the Perroquets, which are the westernmost of the Mingan islands. It is occasionally frequented hj fishing-schooners early in the season, and the boats of the Gulnare ascended it 6 miles, following the winding of its channels, with a depth varying from 1 to 3 fathoms at low water. The tide flows no farther than the distance just mentioned, where the river becomes too rapid to be navigated by other than canoes or flat-bottomed boats. The course of the river, for several leagues up from the entrance, is between high cliffs of stratified sand and gravel over clay, with small sandy islands occasionally. The country, on either side, is covered with a thick growth of small spruce trees. Five or six leagues from the sea, following the stream, there are reported to be high falls over granite rocks. At the en- trance, between the clay cliffs on the west and a sandy point on the east side, the river is 260 yards wide. The breadth increases to nearly half a mile immediately within the entrance, and then decreases again gradually, being nowhere less than one cable wide in the first 6 miles. There were two log-houses on the west bank, half a mile within the entrance, where a party of men occasionally resided to fish for salmon ; and vessels may lie close to them in 2 fathoms at low water. , . Bar. — An extensive bar of sand, half a mile out from the entrance, shifts with every gale of wind, and has seldom more than 3 or 4 feet over it at low water; at high water there are 7 or ID feet on the bar, according as it may be neap or spring tide. Southerly and westerly winds cause so heavy a surf as to render the bar impassable. JurcBOBAOB. — There is good anchorage outside the bar, which may be safely approached by the lead, the soundings decreasing gradually from 20 to 3 fathoms over sand and clay bottom ; the greater depth being at 2^ miles, and the lesser at three-quarters of a mile, from the river's mouth. [ST. L.]— VOL. 1, O 910 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [ciup.iz. ■.—It iti high water, full and change, at the entrance of St. John river, at Ih. 20in.; ordinary springH riHo 7 feet, and neaps 4 feet. AMwmox or COAST. — From the river St. John to the river Moinic tho course is W. hy N. ^ N., and tho distance 69 miles. The whole of this long line of coast, with the exception of its two extremities, that is to say •II between Magpie and Trout rivers, is composed of primary rock rising inmiediately from the sea in steep, although often rounded hills, which •re either bare, or partially wooded with small trees of the pine species. The hills in front, or next to the sea, seldom exceed 200 or 300 feet in height : but others, a short distance buck from the shore, form a range of greater elevation, varying from 500 to 700 feet, and nowhere exceeding l,00t* feet of height above the sea.* Tlie api)earanco of this coast from a vessel is slightly undulating, bold •nd unbroken, presenting features so little diversified that it is very difficult to make out one part of it from another at a distance of 2 or t leagues ; but upon a nearer api)roach, the mouths of the rivers, taken in connexion with the features of the neighbouring land, will in general ■apply distinguishing characters, by which the situation of a vessel may be ascertained. »• ibooAXi ATTSAonoir ofthc ssoaa. — Tho black oxide of iron, besides being a constituent mineral in tho granitic rocks of this coast, is found abundantly in nests and veins, particularly in the vicinity of the Sawbill river. Its magnetic action on the needles of compasses on shore is such •8 to cause the variation obtained by them to vary from 14 to 29 degrees West. While sounding in the boats, this disturbing influence has been sensibly felt, which diminiched or increased as the boat receded from, or approached towards the shore. In the Gulnare, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, the error from this cause never exceeded half a point, and at the distance of 5 or 6 miles it became insensible. OAunow.— This coast is not by any means so bold as it appears from a distance, for there are many rocks along it both above and under water, several of which are very dangerous, and nearly a mile from tho shore. There are soundings off every part of this coast, as will be seen in the chart ; but strangers should not approach the shore between Magpie and Bason rivers nearer than the depth of 20 fathoms. Still greater caution becomes necessary between the last-named river and St. Charles point, where 40 fathoms is as near as a large ship can approach with prudence, for that depth in several places will be found within a mile of the rocks. * See Charts :— Gulf of St Lawrence, No. 2,516; scale, dt «f St. Lawrence, Sheet 4, No. 306 ; scale m = 0*25 of an inch. 3*7 inches : and Gulf ■^.'\i. •HAMX.]" .W/ HIVIR ST. JOHN. — MAGPIE BAT. CMfA ^^ .V 211' IT. vonr, nn Uolatod, saddle-backed hill, 1,416 feet above' tho Hoa at high water, boarH N.E. by N., 11 milen, from the entrance of the river St. .John. <•• \k »-•■ -n Between the St. John and Magpie rivers tho coast consists of white clay clitfs, with a superstratum of sand, which in faHt consolidating into sandstone by means of the red oxido of iron furnished by numerous small ■troams. LOVia mivaB, the entrance to which is nearly in tho centre of Magpie bay, and 5 miles N.W. ^ N. from the St. John, h a largo and rapid stream, with several rockH above and under water off its east point of entrance, and one-third of a mile off shore. The entrance of this river, between steep rocks, is only 60 feet wide, and tho ebb tide rushes out of it in a torrent 6 fathoms deep. At 1^ cables lengths within this narrow entrance the river falls about 80 feet over granitic rocks. There are from 7 to 9 fcot at low water over tho bar outside, but as this river is of no use either to vessels or boats, it is unnecessary to describe it farther. , .- . «f.«,.,^ MAOVia BAT. — Rather moro than three-quivrtcrs of a mile to the west- ward of the Magpie river, and nearly one-quarter of a mile off shore on the west side of Magpie bay, there is a rocky shoal, on which tho sea Imost always breaks at low water. The course and distance across Magpie bay, from the river St. John to Magpie point, is W.N.W. 8 miles. There is good anchorage, with winds off the land, in the bay ; and vessels may stand in to 7 fathoms at low water in every part of it, but the southerly and westerly winds roll in a very heavy sea. , ■•• vova-r ATBOMS mnkoa. — Three and a-half miles W. by N. ^ N. from Magpie point, is Ridgo point, from which a long and narrow ridge of rocky ground, with from 4 to 6 fathoms at low water, extends 4^ miles to the westward across a bay, wherein there is one large and several small rocks above water. The western side of this rocky ground is nearly 1 mile off to the southward of Thunder point. There is a vcjry heavy sea upon this ridge at times, and it then becomes dangerous to large ships. There ore 20 fathoms water close outside of it in some parts, and 30 fathoms is quite near enough to its west end.* BJL'wmxuL BiVBS, situated in the bay between Sheldrake and Ore points, and 2S\ miles westward of the river St. John, may be distinguished by the clay cliffs immediately within the entrance, and by the peculiar. * See Chart :— Oalfof St. Lawrence, Sheet 5, No. 307 ; scale, inssO'96 of an inch. 02 212 QULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [chap. is. hills on either side of it, which are barren and of gray felspar, thickly studded with small round mounds. This river affords shelter to boats and small coasting craft ; but it can only be • entered in very fine weather, in consequence of the heavy surf. It has scarcely any bar ; but the entrance, at the western extremity of a long and narrow spit of sand, which extends across the river's mouth, is very narrow, with a depth of from 4 to 1 1 feet in it, according to low or high water, in ordinary springs. At high water neaps there is seldom more than 9 feet. The same depth continues only for a very short distance within the entrance. COS BAHX. — Nine miles S. by E. from the entrance of the Sawbill there is a bank of sand, gravel, and broken shells, on which codfish abound, and the depth is upwards of 60 fathoms between it and the shore. 8BA&&OP BZVBS, 7^ miles farther to the N.W. by W., affords shelter only to boats, and can only be entered when there is no surf. There are several rocks, both above and under water, off this river, and also off Sandy river, a small stream about 2^ miles farther westward. The outer- most of these rocks lie fully half a mile from the shore. BEAjnTOV RZVBR, at 4^ miles N.W. by W. of Shallop river, is the largest on this coast, excepting the rivers St. John and Moisic, and i» distant to the westward, from the first of these rivers, 35 miles. It may be readily distinguished from a vessel several leagues off the coast by two remarkable patches of clay cliff, one of which is close to the east- ward, the other about 1 mile to the north-westward of its entrance.* To enter this river, keep close along the rocky west side of Manitou point, leaving on the port side the sandy spit close within it, which stretches out from the sandy west point of the entrance. The channel is always in this position, but it is more or less deep and wide according to the season and the winds which may have recently prevailed. In general the channel is about 60 yards wide, with a depth of 5 feet in it at low water, whilst at high water 9 feet in neap tides, and 12 feet in spring tides, may be carried in. Strong southerly and westerly winds cause a. heavy surf, and render the entrance impracticable. A short distance within the entrance there are 9 feet at low water, deepening gradually to 5 fathoms at the first rapid, one mile up the river. Half a mile farther up, the river falls 113 feet perpendicularly, over sienite and porphyry, in one unbroken sheet of water, forming one of the most beautiful cascades in Lower Canada. * See Plan of Manitou river, scale, m = 4 inches, on Admiralty Flan of the Bayof tho Seven Islaada, No. 1,135; scale, m s 1 inch. CHAP. IS.] MANITOU BIVER. — ^BASON BIVER. 213 is the rcsomAoa.— There is good anchorage off the Manitou river. Vessels may safely anchor in fine weather with the wind off-shore, having the entrance of the river bearing N.E. ^ E., 1^ miles, where they will have 15 fathoms over mud bottom, and be more than one mile distant from Manitou point, the nearest point of the shore. If water be required it will be found at a small stream on the western shore, a short distance within the entrance ; or the boats may row up the river until they find the water fresh. Small vessels may anchor farther inshore to the westward of the bar, and in the bay between Manitou and Buchan points, which are 3 miles from each other ; for the soundings decrease regularly in towards the shore, with sand and clay bottom, and there is no other danger but a small rocky shoal which bears W. by N., 2^ miles, from the entrance of the river, S.E. ^ S. nearly a mile from Buchan point, and which is about three quarters of a mile off-shore. There are 7 fathoms within this shoal, and 9 fathoms close outside of it, so that it should be guarded against by vessels beating along the coast. Buchan and Fall rivers, and also Hotteurs river, fall in cascades into the sea, or close to it, and thus serve to point out to a vessel her position off the coast ; and there is, moreover, a remarkable white patch close to the westward of Buchan river. which is 10| miles W.N.W. from Manitou river, has a spit of large stones extending about 1^ cables' lengths out from its east point of entrance. The entrance is very narrow, with a varying depth, which is less or more according to the prevalence or infrequency of the south-west winds ; but there is in general enough water for very small coasting craft or large boats. There are rapids a quarter of a mile within the entrance. CAPB CORMOSAVT, at 1^ miles to the westward of the Bason river, is a small peninsula, on the inner side of which there are the log huts of a trading post not always occupied, and which cannot easily be seen from the sea. COWXTZ ronrx lies 5f miles W. by N. | N. from Cape Cormo- rant. Between them are the Coi*morant islets, joined to the shore at low water, and not readily distinguishable from the main land. OOSMOSAWT Mar, which is small and dangerous, lies off the Cormorant islets, and about a mile from the shore. It has 12 feet least water, and bears W. ^ N., 2-]^ miles, from Cape Cormorant. When on it, Blaskowitz and St. Charles points are in one, bearing W.N.W. nearly, so that vessels approaching this part of the coast should keep the latter point ''itf4 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. Ichap.K. ' open. The coast between Cape Cormorant and St. Charles point is ' broken into coves, two of which are nearly a mile deep, full of rocks, and ■ afford shelter only to boats. The shore is here fringed with rocks both above and under water, and should not therefore be made too free with. ...... ST. OHABUBB VOIWT will readily be known by the cove on its eastern side, and by the trending of the land on the west side northward towards Trout river. ;^ ,, y, ^... ■T. CHABKas MMMT, lying off St. Charles point, is extremely 'dangerous, being so bold that there is no warning by the hand lead, and very little with the deep-sea lead. It is composed of a great number of rocks near to each other, but having a considerable depth of water between them. Some of them always show, but the outermost patches are always covered. These last lie rather more than three-quarters of a mile to the S.S.W. from the southern extreme of St. Charles point ; and the reef jsontinues to the first cove, 1^ miles to the north-westward of the point, but does not there extend so far off-shore as off the point itself. CAUTXOV. — ^Vessels beating to the westward should take care not to be becalmed to the westward of the St. Charles reef, lest the heavy swell from the south-west, so frequent on this coast, should heave them towards the reef, for the water is too deep to anchor until close to the breakers. MOXSIC BAT intervenes between St. Charles point and the Moisic river; the course across it is West, and the distance 1 1 miles, with a depth of between 50 and 60 fathoms nearly all the way. Trout river, a small Btreai., is in the centre of this bay, and 6J- miles N.W. ^W. from St. Charles point. Here the rocky shores terminate, and the bold sandy beach, which extends 6^ miles S. W. by W. to the river Moisic, commences. Beal Bonse Cove, on the east side of Moisic bay, and 2^ miles from St. Charles point, affords shelter only to boats. There are two log-houses there, which are occasionally occupied as a fishing and trading post. The soundings are regular in the bay, with deep water, over clay and sand bottom. The granitic hills, which leave the shore at Trout river, continue inland until they join the ridges in rear of the bay of Seven islands. Between the hills and the sea there is an extensive tract of low sandy country, thickly wooded, and which seems to have been formed, in the course of ages, by the united action of the rivers and the sea. MOisxo enters the sea on the east side of Moisic point, ; which is the southern extremity of the sandy country just mentioned. It if) a larger river than the St. John, discharging a great quantity .CHAP.DC] .ST. CHARLES REEF. — MOISIC BAY. — MOISIC RIVER. 2t$ of water in the spring after the melting of the winter snows, and brii^ing down from the interior great quantities of sand, which so obstruct iti wide and shallow channel in the first 2^ miles from the sea that boala cannot ascend at low water.* The river becomes shallow immediately within the entrance, expandiiig into a wide place full of sand-bars dry at low water. In the above-named distance from the sea, the breadth of the river decreases from 2^ miles to half a mile, and at the end of that distance the sand-bars cease. The river has then a clear channel, carrying 9 feet water, between steep sandj shores or cliiFs for one mile farther, where its breadth is a quarter of a mile. Here the examination of the river was terminated by a head-wind and the ; rapidity of the current, in the spring of the year. The traders report that flat-bottomed boats can ascend to the first rapids, at the distance, following the stream, of six or seven leagues from the sea. The bar, which is of sand, dry at half tide, runs out from the long, low, and narrow east point of entrance, nearly half a mile to the south-westward, and nearly parallel tm the east side of the west point of entrance. The entrance of the river, between this bar and the west point, ia from the south-west, and continues for the distance of 6 cables with a breadth of a quarter of a mile, and a depth varying with the seasons and the winds which prevail; those from the southward and eastward having $, tendency to block up the channel. It is supposed that there is seldom % less depth than 9 feet at low water, the same as inside, close under the west point of entrance, which is the only place where a small vessel can find shelter, close to two log-houses, occasionally employed as a salmon fishery by the people of the Hudson Bay Company. The shelter here is extremely imperfect in gales of wind from the southward and eastward, which send in so heavy a sea that, after breaking completely over the bar and across the entrance, it still retains power enough to seriously affect a small vessel. TIBBB. — At the entrance of the ^oisic it is high water, full and change^ at Ih. 30m., and ordinary springs rise from 5 to 8 feet. , MOIBIC SBOA&. — Although the bar of the river Moisic is so ^ old that there are 50 fathoms water at the distance of three-quarters of a mile from it to the South and S.E., yet the shallow water continues from it te the westward 3^ miles past Moisic point, in such a manner as to fonm an extensive triangular sandy shoal, with from 3 to 1^ fathoms on it St low water. . ^.,' ,•*" "^ * See Flan of the Bay of the Seven Islands, No. 1,135 ; scale, m= I inch. 216 GULF AND BIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [obap.ix. MOIUO soox* near the south-west extremity of the Moisic shoal, and in 3 feet least water, bears W. by S. ^ S., 2^ miles from Moisic point, and is nearly If miles from the shore. This is an extremely dangerous shoal, being as bold as a wall. There are 25 fathoms water alongside of its south and south-west edges, and upwards of 30 fathoms at the distance of 2 cables' lengths. It can generally be seen, in fine weather, from the change in the colour of the water, and from heavy breakers when there is much sea running. There is no close leading mark for avoiding this shoal, so that the only direction that can be given to a vessel standing towards it, is to tack when the northern side of the Manowin island comes 'on with the southern point of the Great Boule island : she will then be 1| miles from the edge of the shoal, and in upwards of 30 fathoms water. IT Bocxs, which are low, bare of trees, and always above water, lie in Boule bay, between the Moisic shoal and the Boule islands. They are out of the way of vessels, but they ought not to stand into this embayed place, since there is generally a heavy southerly swell rolling in, which would render it difficult to beat out. The south point of Great Boule island bears West, and is distant 9^ miles from Moisic'point. are high and steep, of primary rocks, very thinly wooded, and can be made out from a distance of 7 or 8 leagues, being unlike anything else in the Gulf. The easternmost of these islands are the Great and Little Boule, the former of which is the highest of them all, its summit being 695 feet above the sea at high water. Next, west- ward, and parallel to these two, are the Little and Great Basque islands ; the first -named being, as before, the outer island. Great Basque island is 500 feet high. Manowin and Carousel lie to the south-west of the Basque islands ; the former island is 457 feet high ; the latter much lower, and the southernmost of the islands. The West rocks lie between Manowin and the peninsula, which forms the west point of the bay of Seven islands. They are too small and low to appear as the seventh island ; but the peninsula has that appearance when seen at a distance from sea, being higher than any of the islands, and 737 feet above the sea at high "water. OAVTZOV. — The narrow passes between the two Boule islands, the two Basque islands, between Manowin and Carousel, and between Manowin and the West rocks, require no farther notice than to remark, that the tide sets strongly towards and through them ; the flood to the west, and tho ebb to the eastward, a circumstance that should be attended to whea OHAP.IZ.] SEVEN ISLANDS. — SEVEN ISLANDS BAY. 217 becalmed at night, or when tacking in their entrances. The first and last of these channels have water enough for the largest ships ; but the one is subject to sudden and baffling flaws of wind round the Boule islands, and the other is rendered intricate bj rocks which nearly cover at high water. LT. — The relative situations of the Seven islands, their size, and the breadth of the channels between them, will be best seen from the charts ; they are so placed as to completely shelter the mag- nificent bay within them which is 2J miles wide at the entrance, between Chas86 point, the east end of the peninsula, and Sandy point, which is opposite the northern end of Great Basque island. From the entrance Seven Islands bay extends about 6 miles to the northward and west- ward, being so nearly landlocked as to resemble a lake, sufficiently extensive for the largest fleets to lie in safety ; the bottom is of clay, and there are no shoals, excepting the mud banks, which fill up the northern part of the bay. A fine, broad, bold, sandy beach extends for 3 miles northward from the east point of the bay, to the entrance of the principal river, near which stands the Hudson Bay Company's trading post. The houses at this post cannot be seen from the outer parts of the bay, but there is a wooden store on the beach, off which vessels usually anchor. Water can be obtained from this river at high tide. To the northward of the bay, at the distance of a few miles, there are two parallel ranges of mountains ; the summits of the nearest are upwards of 1,300, and those of the most distant upwards of 1,700 feet above the sea. These mountains, the high peninsula, the bold and hilly islands, and the other features around the bay, form a panorama of great beauty. AVCBOBAOB. — The best berth for a vessel of large draught to lie r.t anchor in Seven Islands bay is with Sandy point and the north side of Little Boule island ip line, and Chass6 point in line with the west side of the West rocks. The north-west extremity of the sandy beach near the entrance of the river will then bear N. by E. ^ £. ; the vessel will be in 9 fathoms at low water, over clay bottom, nearly 1 mile from the sandy beach to the eastward, and nearly three quarters of a mile from the 3 fathoms edge of the shoals, which occupy the northern part of the bay. Smaller vessels may lie closer to the shore, in 6 fathoms at low water, which is as near as any vessel ought to anchor. In this anchorage there is a considerable swell with a strong southerly wind, but never enough to endanger a vessel, although sufficient to prevent boats from landing. Those that may wish to lie quite smooth may anchor '218 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [ciup.ix. in the south-wefit part of the bay, in 13 fathoms, soft clay bottom, where tthey will be quite landlocked. ■ f;:.ji -. ,.'<■.*' eivt': »; ..i.'C' >>-!*■*', -^ t^ IS&AHS bears from the south point of Great Cawee island S.W. ^ W., 14 miles. It is low, narrow, and of granitic rocks, without trees, and three-quarters of a mile long, in N.N.E. ^ E. direction. The North rocks, always above water, lie 4 cables distant from the island to the N.N.E. ; they form a low, narrow, black reef, which is 3 cables long, in the same direction, bold towards the mainland and also tov,-ards English point, from which they are distant 1^ miles. A reef under water runs out from these rocks in the direction of their length to the S.S.W., and to the distance of a quarter of a mile, leaving only a very narrow. 3 fathoms channel between them and the island. The N.E. reef runs out to the distance of 6 cables from the north-, east point of Egg island, and is the greatest danger between the Seven islands and Point de Monts. Some of the rocks upon it show in 224 GULF AND RIVBR OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [onAr.iz. low tides, and tho seA generally breaks on them at low water. This reef prevents the swell from rolling in between the north rocks and Egg, island, and thus assists in sheltering the anchorage. WtetOT. — There is no wator oti Egg itiland, but it may readily bo obtained from small streams on either side of Roadstead point. AjrOMOmAoa. — Egg island and its rocks and reefs form a natural brepJcwater, which is IJ^ miles long, in a N.N.E. direction, and inclines slightly towards tho shoro at its northern end, in such a manner m, with the assistance of tho shoal off English point, to shelter tho anchorage from north-east winds. The northern end of this breakwater is distant from the mainland nearly three quarters of a mile, and tho southern end more than a mile ; but extensive flats extend from the main, and diminish the navigable breadth of the channel to about a third of a mile in tho nar- rowest part, which is nearly opposite the northern end of Egg island. The best anchorage is, however, to the S.W. of this narrow part, where the breadth, from tho 3 fathoms cdgo of the shoal o£f tho main to Egg island is 6 cables' lengths. All along the inner sides of Egg island and of the North rocks, except- ing near their northern end, the water is deep, there being from 17 to 24 fathoms at low tide closo to them. The soundings decrease gradually towards the main land, and tho best depth to anchor in is 9 or 10 fathoms, according to the time of tide. The bottom is of clay in tho deep water towards the island, and of sand from the depth of 9 fathoms towards tho main land. There is little danger of dragging an anchor up hill towards the main, but, with violent squalls off the land, vessels should have a good scope of cable out, for should tho anchor start, they might be on the rocks before they could bring up again. In order to have as much room as possible, with a moderate depth of water, vessels should not anchor to the north-eastward of a line joining Roadstead point and tho centre of Egg island. The best position is with the south-west end of Egg island bearing S.E. by S., and tho inner sido of the North rocks N.E. ; English point will then bo open half a point to the westward of the latter. In this anchorage vessels will He sheltered from N.E., round by north, to S.W. by the main land, and from S.E. to N.E. by the island, with its rocks and reefs. The winds from the remaining points, namely, those between S.W. and S.E., seldom blow strong, and even with them a vessel may find some shelter by shifting her berth to the eastward, where she will find 7 fathoms over sandy bottom. The anchorage at Egg island is too small to be a favourite ref- . t for large vessels, but in time of need, or as a place of refuge in case of distress, it would be found of great value on a coast so destitute of good harbours. CHAT. IS.] EQO island; anchorage; directions. 225 aimaoTiovs are unnecessary for running into tliis anchorage from ^e southward and westward, since the south-wost end of Egg island is quite bold. But if it bo intended to run through between the island and the main, stand in to the northward to 8 or 9 fathoms, or until English point is open half a point to the northward of the North rocks, then steer for English point, giving the inner side of the north rocks a berth of a cable's length, until the vohhoI has passed the North rocks a full quarter of ft mile. She will then be in about 7 fathoms at low water, and may haul out to sea, going nothing to the southward of S.E. by E., to avoid the N.E. reef. There is no danger between the rocks and reefs of Egg island and English point, excepting the reef oiF the latter already mentioned. These directions, taken in the reverse order, will enable a vessel to rua through from the eastward ; and wo shall merely add to them a caution not to approach the N.E. reef off Egg islet, for there are 20 fathoms at the distance of a quarter of a mile from it in every seaward direction, and consequently little warning by the lead. At xriviit it is extremely difHcuIt to make out Egg island, by reason of the high land under which it lies, and which, coming from the westward, attains its nearest approach to the sea 1^ miles in rear of English point. But this high land, whilst it prevents the island from being readily seen, points out its situation very nearly. Tisas. — It is high water, fall and change, at Egg island at 2h. Om. ; springs rise 1 1 feet ; neaps 6 feet. The rate of the tides between Egg island and the main is from a half to one knot, and part of the stream of ebb sets towards and out through tho narrow and dangerous 3 fathoms channel between the island and the North rocks. Part of the stream of flood comes in through the samo channel. OA&vnniT axvas is a small stream 2^ miles to the westward of Egg island ; along the shore for a mile to the south-westward of its entrance, there are reefs of largo stones extending out to the distance of 6 cables from high water mark, and having 15 fathoms off them at half a mile to seaward. To the south-west of these reefs, as far as Trinity bay, the coast is free from danger, and may be approached with safety, if due caution be used. There are 20 fathoms at the distance of from half a mile to a mile, and 40 fathoms from 2 to 3 miles from the shore. OAamov vonrr, 8^ miles south westward from Egg island, is a small rocky peninsula, having sandy coves on either side of its isthmus, in which pilot boats find shelter, and often remain on the look out for vessels. [8T. L.]— VOL. I. 9 i226 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [chap. irf. '' nunrxTT bat, at 5 miles to the south-westward of Caribou point, is 2 miles wide, and nearly 1 mile deep, with a fine sandy beach extending from its south-west point to Trinity river, which is a small and rapid stream, abounding with trout and salmon, where water can be had only at high water, because of the large stones about its entrance. The south-west point of the bay is rocky, and off the north-east point there are two low black rocks ; the depth of water between the points of the bay is from 5 to 7 fathoms at low water over sandy bottom.* This bay affords excellent anchorage, in a moderate depth of water with good ground, and plenty of room to weigh in any wind. It is a valuable stopping place, in westerly winds, for vessels bound up the St. Lawrence, to wait their opportunity to proceed round Point de Monts, and up the Estuary. ' * • VX&OT8 are generally found waiting in Trinity bay for vessels when the wind is from the westward, but in easterly winds they take shelter . in St. Augustin cove, to the westward of Point de Monts. I BISBCTXOVB. — ^In running along the land for Trinity bay, either from the north-east or south-west, come no nearer than the depth of 15 fathoms until the bay opens ; then haul in, and anchor in 7 fathoms at low water ; with the lighthouse on Point de Monts (seen just within a small rock about 1^ miles to the south-westward of the bay) bearing S. W. by W., the outer of the two rocks off the north-east point of the bay N.E. -J E., and the entrance of the river N. by W. ; the vessel will be then rather more than three-quarters of a mile distant from the south-west point of the bay. Vessels of large draught may anchor farther out, and in deeper water, if more convenient, and small schooners in 3 fathoms, close under the south-west point. vom de KOWTS &IOBTHOVSB stands low down and close to the sea, at 5 miles to the south-westward from Trinity bay, and E.N.E. rather more than 1^ miles from the south extremity of Point de Monts. It is of conical form, nearly white, and 75 feet high, and exhibits at an elevation of 100 feet above high water a ^xed white light, which can be seen in clear weather from distances of 15, 20, and 23 miles nearly, according as the height of the observer's eye above the sea may be 10, 50, or 100 feet respectively (see page 36, and view on chart). The extreme of the land to the north-westward near Caribou point bears N.E. ^ E. from the light which can be seen over the point ; and that • See Charts : — River St. Lawrence, Part 1, No. 309 ; scale, m : and Sheet 1, below Qcebec, No. 311; scale, m « half of an inch. * 25 of an inch : '— .. U CHAP. IX.] TRINITY BAY. — POINT DE MONTS ; LIGHT. 227 bearing continued will pass little more than 2^ miles outside of Egg island at the distance of 20 miles from the light. ,, ^ ; . / • OJkVTSOM. — Vessels being to the eastward in a dark night, when the land cannot be seen, had better tack ; when Point de Monts light bean W.S.W., or even W. by S. will be near enough, if they be as near to it as Trinity bay. They may, however, stand in nearer, using due caution by the lead. Vessels to the westward of the light should tack as soon as it bears E. ^ N. ; it cannot be seen to the southward of East, in conse- quence of the high land which interposes. When it disappears, a vessel off Goodbout river will be only one mil© from the bar (page 45). The south extremity of Point de Monts as before stated is rather more than 1^ miles W.S.W. from the lighthouse. S.W. from the light- house, S.E. from the extremity of the point, and half a mile off shore^ lies a ledge of rocks with 9 or 10 feet least water. S.S.W., half a mile from the lighthouse, is another rock with 2 fathoms on it ; and there is a third with little more water, and nearly as far off from the lighthouse to the E.S.E. These dangers should be carefully guarded against in making the light in thick weather, or when keeping close to the land with a northerly wind ; and the depth of 15 fathoms is quite near enough to them for a large vessel at any time, being no more than 2 cables distant from the first, and about twice that distance from the two last of them. ' I •. . of OOA8T. — The land, which on the eastern side of Point de Monts in rather low begins to rise immediately from that point to the westward, and granitic hills very sparingly wooded, and in no part abovo 1000 feet in height, form the north coast of the Estuary to St. Giles poinf^ distant 30^ miles W. ^ N. from Point de Monts. The section of coast just indicated is as bold as any in the St. Lawrence, there being little or no warning by the lead, neither is there any good anchorage sufficientlj roomy for the occasional use of shipping. : * ,,i . . .« ST. AVOVBTIK COVB, 1^ miles westward of Point de Monts, affords shelter only to boats ; and pilots are generally found waiting here wilk easterly winds. ,..;>. CMiOBBOirr miWB, 8^ miles westward from Point de Monts, enters the sea at the extremity of a sandy point, and has a bar of sand, which extends out from the eastern point of entrance to the distance of ncarlj half a mile, dries in great part at low water, and is extremely bold to sea- ward. There is usually at low water not more than 4 or 5 feet over this bar, on which a heavy surf very frequently breaks ; and the river is oolj p2 228 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [ohap.ix. of use to boats, because of the difficult and narrow entrance, although there are 15 or 16 feet of water over the bar at high water springs. There is a trading and salmon fishing post of the Hudson Bay Company at this river, and the houses can readily be seen. AsrcHOaAOB. — ^It is possible to anchor on either side of the bar of Goodbout river, but too near to the shore to be of general use. The anchorage to the westward of the bar may occasionally be useful in easterly winds to small, vessels. They should anchor about midway between the bar and the first rocky point to the westward of it, or about a mile to the westward of the bar. At this anchorage, which is only safe in summer, the bottom is of coarse sand. The tides are weak and irregular, rendering it difficult to keep the anchor clear in calm weather ; they also frequently set towards the shore, coming in with long ripplings parallel to the coast. szsaCTiows. — To run for this anchorage, observe that the rocky point just mentioned and the east point of entrance of St. Nicholas harbour in one, bearing W.N.W., just clear the bar ; therefore keep the last-named point in sight, until the houses at Goodbout bear N.E., and then t.>ie bar will have been passed. After which run in and bring the points in one, running for them until the vessel is judged to be in the position above- mentioned, or until the east extremity of the high clay and wooded banks on the west side of the river, where it turns inland, and which can be seen over the sandy beach, bears N.E. by N. The houses of Goodbout will then bear E. ^ N., Cape St. Nicholas W. ^ N., and the outer extreme of the bar E.S.E. The depth will be 6 or 7 fathoms at low water ; towards the shore 3^ fathoms at the distance of half a cable ; then 3 fathoms for the distance of nearly 2 cables farther in ; and thence shoal to the beach, distant about three-quarters of a mile from the vessel. To seaward the water deepens rapidly to 30 fathoms at the distance of a third of a mile. 8T. xrxcBOXiAB HAMBOUX lies 3 miles to the north-eastward from Cape St. Nicholas, which is a high bare point of granite, bearing W. by N. 17 miles from Point de Monts. This harbour is a narrow inlet between granitic hills from 500 to 700 feet in height, 1^ miles in the direction of N.W. ^ N., and is so secure that a vessel might be laid on shore and repaired as if she were in a dock ; on the south-west side a vessel may lie alongside of the rocks as alongside a wharf. There is as much as 9^ fathoms at low water, in the deepest part of the harbour, and the bottom is of mud.* - *ir!-: * Sm Flan of St. Nicholas Harbour, No. 1,141 ; scale, « w 6 iasiml. CHAP.ix] GOODBOUT RIVER. — ST. NICHOLAS HARBOUR* 229 The breadth of the harbour within no where exceeds 380 yards, and at the entrance is only 150 yards. The slioals on the east side of the entrance dry out so far as to leave a channel between them and Cross point only 60 yards wide, and with a depth of 5 feet at low water spring tides. The depth that can be carried in at high water is from 12 to 17 feet, according as it may bo neap or spring tides. The bottom in the entrance is of sand, with some few large stones upon it, which can be seen and avoided, if the tide be not high enough to pass over them. The entrance is situated in the centre of a small bay, three-quarters of a mile wide, and rather more than one quarter of a mile deep to the rocky point on the west side of the entrance to the harbour, which will be readily seen pro- jecting out into the bay, and is named Cross point, from a small wooden cross upon it. An extensive shoal o( sand and boulders, which dry at half tide, extends from the east point of the bay, nearly 3^ cables to the W.S.W., and continues northward to the entrance of the harbour. This shoal can always be seen, is quite bold, and completely shuts out the sea from the harbour in southerly and easterly winds. The shoals on the west side extend across a small bay on the west side of Cross point, and continue for the distance of 4 cables out to seaward, extending off-shore to the distance of a cable. The anchorage between these shoals, in the bay off the harbour's mouth, is only 3 cables wide, and consequently too small to be considered a roadstead for large vessels, but the ground is good, and the depth con- venient for anchoring preparatory to warping into the harbour. ^Vater. — There are several small streams, on the eastern side of S. Nicholas harboui*, where water can be obtained ; and it can also be had at high water from the two small rivers at the head of the inlet. The stones on the bar of this harbour might be easily removed, and it was ascertained, by boring, that the channel might be deepened to any extent that might be desirable. CAUTZOW. — South-east winds blow right into St. Nicholas harbour, and are consequently the most favourable for running in, but with a strong wind in that direction, and at high water when the shoals are covered, there is generally some sea outside the narrow entrance ; an accident at such a time might be attended with serious consequences, and therefore it is only in very fine weather that the entrance should be attempted with a south-east wind. North-west winds blow right out of the harbour, and often with great violence. A W.S.W. wind is the safest for running in, for the entrance and bay outside are then quite smooth, the sea being turned off by Cape St. Nicholas ; but this wind will seldom take a vessel completely in, it will usually only enabJe her to shoot so far within Cross point that a line 230 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. [chap. IX. may be sent ashore, or a kedge ahead, for the purpose of warping in the remainder of the way, which may be quickly done if due preparation has been made beforehand. The entrance should be attempted in the last quarter flood, then if the Tessel touches the ground she will receive no damage, and there will be time for her to warp in before the tide begins to fall. sntBOTZOWS. — A vessel wishing to enter St. Nicholas harbour, and being off the mouth of the bay, should bring the end of Cross point to bear N.N.E., then steer so nearly for it as to leave it not more than 50 nor less than 30 yards distant on the port hand. If the wind will allow, continue to run in, at the same distance from the shore on the west side, until the water deepens ; but if the wind falls, or the vessel is met with light baffling flaws out of the harbour, as often happens in westerly winds, send a line on shore on the west side, or drop the anchor under foot as soon as the Tessel loses her way, and warp into deep water. The shoal water, which may be called the bar, and commences at Cross point, continues for a distance of 2 cables within it, and the channel is rendered narrow by shoals off the eastern side, for an equal distance farther up the harbour. In order to have as much room as possible, a vessel should anchor farther in than the three large rocks, which will be seen on the eastern side of the harbour. To run out again, wait for a north-west wind, or take advantage of the land wind in the early part of the morning, which often occurs in fine weather when westerly winds prevail ; or, lastly, warp out in a light breeze or calm, to the entrance of the bay outside, and to a position from which sail can be made. v/ ■T. PAircsAS cova, 9 miles W.N.W. from Cape St. Nicholas, being only about 320 yards wide, between steep rocks, and open to the south- ward, with very deep water, is of no use to vessels. The depth is 32 fathoms in its entrance, shoaling gradually to 17 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of its head. The sea is never heavy in it, and a vessel might be saved there in time of need. It affords shelter to boats. mrOKXSK BAT, between St. Pancras point and St. Giles point, affords no good anchorage, in consequence of the great depth of water ; a heavy sea rolls into it in easterly winds, and its shores are high and rocky. A vessel might anchor close to the shore on its west side, in 16 or 17 fathoms at low water, and be well sheltered from all but easterly winds ; but she would' be in great danger if a strong wind from that quarter came in, since there would be no possibility of weathering the eastern side of the Mani- couagon shoal during the flood tide. .BCAmoovAOOir mxvwM, — St. Giles point, the northern point of •atrance to the Manicouagon river, is 13^ miles W. by N. from Cape CHAP. IX,] ENGLISH BAY. — MANICOUAGON RIVER. 231 St. Nicholas, and is high and rocky, like the coast to the eastward ; while Manicouagon point, which is 17^ miles W. by S. ^ S. from Cape St. Nicholas, is low and thickly wooded, with a broad sandy beach, like the rest of the coast westward to Outard bay. This complete change in the character of the coast points out to a vessel her approach towards the dangerous Manicouagon shoal.* The Manicouagon river flows out through narrow channels, between shoals that dry at low water, in Manicouagon bay, and over a bar which extends from St. Giles point to the north-east end of the Manicouagon shoal. Six miles West from St. Giles point the shallow channels between the shoals unite in the inner entrance of the river, which is there narrow and 4 fathoms deep. The falls, where the river discharges a great body of water down a narrow and sloping channel between steep granite rocks, are 3 miles farther up in u north-west direction, and a boat may approach close to them. • AxrcBOSAOB. — The principal channel is on the north side of the en- trance, and there is a deep place, or large hole, in it 1| miles long, from half to a quarter of a mile Avide, and with a depth from 3 to 5 fathoms at low water, with muddy bottom. This large hole is close to St. Giles point, and extends 1^ miles within it. Although this place appears completely open to easterly winds, no swell of consequence rolls into it, and we believe a vessel well moored on its north side within St. Giles point would be in safety. But to j^et in there it is necessary to pass over the bar* which extends out 2 miles to the eastward from St. Giles point : it has 7 feet over it at low and from 14 to 19 feet at high water, according as it may be neap or spring tides. The outside of the bar is extremely bold, there being 30 fathoms, sandy bottom, close to it, and 50 fathoms, mud bottom, at the distance of one mile. The bar then sweeps round till it joins the Manicouagon shoal, which consists of sand and occasional boulders, and which is dry at low water for nearly 5 miles out, in an E. by N. direction, from the northern end of Manicouagon peninsula. This is altogether too wild and dangerous a place to be of general use to vessels, but as, nevertheless, it might prove of use in time of need, the following brief directions are given for entering it. . :r .. .t^ /. Ms.'at BntaonoiTB. — With St. Giles point bearing W. by S., and St. Fancras point, the eastern point of English bay, bearing North, steer directly for St. Giles point ; and when the head of English bay bears North, and St. Fancras point N.E., the vessel will be close to the bar. Continue to run over the bar on the same course, W. by S., until the points on the west side of English bay bear N. by E. | E. ; she will then be within a miltf t«i * See Plan of Manicouagon Biver, No. 1,146 ; scale, m s 1 inch. 232 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [chap. ix. of St. Giles point, and must keep away a couple of points to the south- ward along the southern edge of the shoal, which dries at low water off that point, until the points are opened out on the north side of Manicouagon bay to the southward of St. Giles point ; then haul up again so as to pass that point at the distance of a cable's length, and anchor half a mile within it, in 3 or 4 fathoms at low water. TZBBS. — The ebb runs out over the Manicouagon bar to the eastward, at the rate of about 1^ knots, and the flood is nearly as strong. It is high water, full and change, at 2 hours nearly, and springs rise 12 feet, and neaps 7 feet. KAmoovAOOxr suoaj, is of sand, with many large boulders scattered about its eastern and southern parts, and probably deposited there by the ice. The most eastern point of this dangerous and extensive shoal is distant 2^ miles from St. Giles point, in an E.S.E. direction, and 5^ miles E. by N. from the north-east end of Manicouagon peninsula. The bearing of S.W. by S. from St. Pancras cove passes along the eastern side of the shoal, which is so bold that there arc 60 fathoms water at the distance of little more than 1^ miles, and 40 fathoms at half that distance from the breakers. On this side the shoal dries nearly out to its edge in low tides. The south point of the shoal extends 2^ miles to the south- ward of Manicouagon point, and here only is there any sufiicient warning by the deep sea lead. With Manicouagon point on any bearing from North to N.W. by N., 60 fathoms over a bottom of very fine sand will be found at the distance of 3^ miles from the 3 fathoms mark, to which the water shoals gradually, till close to it, where there are 17 fathoms. The shoal dries out in low tides, in this part, and also farther to the westward, from 1 to 1^ miles from the beach. The shoal continues from its south point to the westward for a distance of 16 miles, the outline of its edge corresponding to the shape of the sandy shore as far as Outard point, off which it extends to the southward 1^ miles, and, filling up all the eastern part of Outard bay, stretches out its western point fully 3^ miles W. by S. from Outard point. TXBA& ■TBKAJKB. — ^There is often a heavy sea, particularly in a weather tide, off the Manicouagon shoal, but all the terrific accounts which have been circulated of " strong and irregular eddies," in which vessels will not answer their helms during a fresh gale of wind, " and can with difficulty be kept from running on the bank, or driving against each other," are entirely unfounded. But without that exaggeration a shoal which extends so far from a low part of the coast, which is difficult to bo made out at night, and which has such deep water close to it, must be sufficiently dangerous to demand the utmost prudence and vigilance of tho CHAP. IZ.] MANICOUAGON SHOAL.— OUTARD RIVEH. 233 seaman, without alarming him with imaginary perils. The tides are tolerably regular, and not very strong along the shoal ; the rate of either tide does not exceed 2 knots at any time, and is usually much less. But great ripplings are met with occasionally, both near the shoals and in the offing, where they are caused, as in other parts of the Estuary, by the unequal velocities, or the opposing directions of the streams, as will be readily imagined when it is remembered that the current is always down on the south side, slack in the middle, and up during the flood on the north side of the Estuary (page 27). These ripplings are very common off the eastern and southern parts of the Manicouagon shoal, where they were observed to move much faster than the streams of the tides, as was evident by their passing by the Gulnare ii a calm. They often give to the tides the appearance of a rapidity which does not exist. OUTASB szviai. — Outard point is 1 1 miles to the westward of the south extremity of Manicouagon point, and the shore between them is of low sandy cliffs, with a sandy beach. Outard river flows on the north side of Outard point, and can be ascended by boats to the falls, over granitic rocks, which are 7 miles, N.E. by E., from the point. These falls are only 1| miles from the Manicouagon river. The two rivers therefore form the low sandy country, between Outard and Manicouagon points, into a great peninsula, which has probably been produced by the rivers in the course of ages. The entrance to the Outard river is by several intricate and narrow channels through the western part of the Manicouagon shoal, and as there are only 2 or 3 feet of water through these channels at low tide, for the distance of 4 or 5 miles, the place is useless to vessels, and therefore requires no farther description. The water of this river holds a white earth suspended, and frequently covers the whole surface of Outard bay, floating on the heavier sea water beneath, and giving the whole bay the appearance of being shoal. A vessel sailing through this superstratum of fresh water displaces it, and leaves a blue streak in her wake. _ . ..„ OVTAMO BAT, between Outard and Bersimis points, has three small rocky islands in it, which appear as two from seaward, and serve to distinguish the bay to strangers ; they are far within the edge of the shoals, which extend quite round the bay, and occupy the greater part of it, being a continuation of the Manicouagon shoal. AVCBOBAOB.— Gk>od anchorage will be found on the west side of Outard bay, in 14 fathoms at low water, over muddy bottom, with Bersimis 234 GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [chap. a. point bearing S.W. by S., 3^ milea. Manicouagon point will then be open 3 or 4 degrees to the southward of Outard point, the south side of which will bear E. by N., the first rocky point north-eastward of the river N. by W., and the vessel will be nearly half a mile frcm the 8 fathoms edge of the shoal on the west side of the bay : small veseels may lie closer, in 7 or 8 fathoms. r , . i , , , , , .t^ Bntaonoira. — In standing in for this anchorage with a westerly wind, beware of the bar of Bersimis river, which is extremely steep. If the first rocky point can be made out to the north-eastward of the river, and which Ixars from its entrance N.N.E. 4^ miles, take care that it does not bear to the eastward of North, and the vessel will clear the bar. When it is passed, she may haul in to the northward into soundings, going no nearer than 10 fathoms. . ' ' ' ; >vt <• Vessels may anchor for a distance of three-quarters of a mile on either side of the position pointed out, either farther out to the S.S.W., towards Bersimis point, or towards the small islands to the N.E., but the above berth is the best. This anchorage, which is nut generally known, is ex- cellent in westerly gales ; and may occasionally be very useful to vessels bound up the St. Lawrence. The tides are not so strong as has been sup- posed ; the ebb seldom exceeding the rate of 2 knots, and the flood being much weaker. The direction of these streams is reversed by the effect of the Outard river. enters the sea to the eastward, and 1| miles N.E. from the south extremity of Bersimis point. The south side of entrance of the river for more than three-quarters of a mile is of low and bare sand. The opposite point of entrance is also of sand, and bears N.N.W., rather more than a mile from the south point, but this wide mouth of the river is closed by sands dry at low water, with the exception of a very narrow channel. The river within, for the first 3 miles, is wide and full of sand shoals.* Tiie Bar is of sand, which dries in parts at low water, and shifts fre- quently, being completely exposed to southerly and easterly gales : it extends nearly 1^ miles to the eastward of the south point of entrance. Directions for entering the river must therefore be useless ; but it may be as well to remai-k, that within the bar the channel is always close to the south point of entrance, and keeps on that side through the wide part within, with a depth of 9 feet at low water. The depth that could be carried in over the bar, in the month of July, was 6 feet at low water, . * 5ee Flan of Bersimis River, No. 1,365 ; scale, m s Q* 6 of an inch. .-..-.^ ■»' CHAP. IX.] OUT.\RO DAY.— BERSIMIS RIVER. 235 and from 13 to 18 feet at high water, according as it might be neap or spring tides. / ^ This river discharges a great volume of water, especially in the spring of the year, and the water Is fresh enough for drinking, when the tide is out, 2 miles within its entrance, ""lie river is navigable to the falls, which are 30 or 40 feet high, and over granitic rocks. These falls are distant 30 miles N.W. by N., in a direct line from the south point of entrance ; but the distance is nearly 40 miles by following the windings of the river. The banks of the river are high and precipitous, being either of granite or cliffs of sand and gravel over clay. The basins and valleys between the hills are filled with these last named deposits, which support a heavy growth of trees of the pine and spruce species. There is good timber to be met with occasionally. The breadth of the river varies from one to three cables' length, and its depth is usually from 2 to 5 fathoms : there is a place in which the depth amounts to 12 fathoms ; but 2 fathoms is as much as could be carried up to the foot of the Falls. The stream of the flood tide is felt 10 miles up the river ; and 6 miles up, the channel is contracted by shoals of sand and boulders to the breadth of 100 yards for the distance of a mile. Through this narrow part, the ebb runs 4 knots ; above it, the rate of the current is from 1 to 2^ knots. Boats could row up this river to the foot of the falls, and a steamer could ascend it with ease ; but the winds are generally too light and baffling between its high banks for a sailing vessel. ■■':■ ■' • ■ .. .■•■■a.v./- BBX8ZMX8 vonrr, is low, of sand, wooded with spruce trees, and difficult to be seen at night. On its east side, the low south point of the river extends to the distance of 2 miles from the trees, and the bar 1^ miles farther ; and to the southward, the sand shoal extends three-quarters of a mile from the sandy beach, yet it is so bold that the lead affords no warning, there being 60 fathoms muddy bottom at a distance of a mile from the edge of the shoal. On the east and west sides of the point tha shoals are equally steep, so that this point is very dangerous, especially to vessels beating at night or in foggy weather. From the south extremity of Bersimis point, Manicouagon point bears E. by N. i N., 21 miles ; and Mille Vaches point S.W. by W. | W., 29 miles. In all this last-named distance, if the extreme points be excepted, vessels will find by reference to the chart, that the soundings off the shore afford some warning, although there are parts where great caution is necessary. The tides are regular, but the flood is rather stronger than the ebb within 6 miles from the shore, where the rate of either seldom exceeds 1^ knots, and is often much less. , mfi 4-7/ 236 GULP AND RIVER OP ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [ciiap.uc zs&Airn. — From Bcrsiinis point, a low and sandy shoro continues 6^ miles to the westward to Jeremy island, which is very small, rocky, and close to the coast. There is a trading post of the Hudson Bay Company on the main, the buildings of which can usually bo seen, but if not, its position will always be known by some patches of white sand and clay cliffs, which are close to the eastward of the island. Vessels may stand in by the lead, and anchor off this place ; but it is a bad anchorage, and the shoal water extends a mile out from the shore. , ' OAVB OOKOMazBH. — From Jeremy island a rocky and broken shore trends W.S.W., 5 miles to Cape Colombicr, which is a rocky peninsula, with a small islet on its west side. OTOSTAXB SHOAX, discovered during the Admiralty survey of this coast in 1830, is a narrow ridge of granite rock, nearly 2 miles long, parallel to the shore, and having from 2 to 3 fathoms over it at low water. The south- west end of this shoal bears S. by E., and its north-east S.E. by E. J E. from Cape Colombier, from which they are distant 1| miles. The inner or north side of Laval island nearly on with Orient point, the east point of Laval bay, bearing West, leads 2 cables to the southward of this shoal in 20 fathoms water. It is very dangerous, there being 23 fathoms close to the south-west end, and also along its southern side. There are 4 or 5 fathoms between it and the shore. Tovnu UMMTf bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., 4 miles from Cape Colombier, is a large bed of rocks, extending three-quarters of a mile from the shore between Flongeur bay and Laval bay. There are 9 fathoms water at the distance of one-third of a mile outside this reef. VKOVOvn BAT, between Wild Fowl reef and Cape Colombier, may be known by a round and rocky peninsula on its west side. The inner part of this bay is full of rocks dry at low water, and the whole bay is shoal out to the line joining Wild Fowl reef and Cape Colombier. ' ' '' CAVTZOir.^ — ^Vessels should be careful in standing in towards the part of this coast from Wild Fowl reef to the Gulnare shoal inclusive ; the depth of 30 fathoms is quite clear enough, as will be seen by the sound- ings in the chart. But to the south-westward of the reef, until within 2 miles of Fort Neuf, they may stand in to 6 fathoms at low water with safety. SAVAA BAT, situated 4 miles to the westward of Wild Fowl reef, and 8J miles N.E. by N. from Port Neuf, will be known by the rocky island in its mouth, and by the clay cliffs which commence 1^ miles to the south* west of it, and continue to within the same distance of Fort Neuf. 4 i OBAP.IZ.] OULNARE SHOAL. — PORT NEUF. 237 This bay 'within the island is all dry at low water. Vessels may safely stand in towards it, the water shoaling gradually from 10 fathoms, which is at the distance of 2^ miles from the shore. There is good anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, over clay bottom, off the clay cliffs above mentioned.* VOBT igmar. — At this port there is a fur-trading and salmon-fiahing establishment, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, who have a lease of the seigniory of Fort Neuf. At this post, which stands upon a steep aandy bank, and is 4 miles to the N.E. of Millo Yaches point, there is a small wooden church for the Indians, a dwelling-house, a st^^e, and several smaller buildings. These can readily be seen by a vessel off the coast. S.S.E. from the church, distant nearly three-quarters of a mile, is the south-west end of a low and narrow sandy peninsula, with a clump of pine or spruce trees upon it, and which extends nearly 2 miles to the N.N.E., where it joins the sand and clay cliffs, which have been previously mentioned. yosT nmur snraB is entered from the south-west, and between the above sandy peninsula and the post on the main land, but is so shallow that a boat cannot enter it at low water. At the junction of the peninsula with the sartd and clay cliffs, the river turns abruptly inland : its sandy channel is too shallow for a boat at low water below that turn ; and at the distance of 1^- miles above it rapids commence. From 7 to 12 feet water may be carried in it at high water between the peninsula and the main land according as it may be neap or spring tide, and a small vessel may lie safely aground on the sand. VOBT iTBVr BAsn>8 are exceedingly steep on every bearing to the southward of JIast from Port Neuf, and to the eastword of South from Mille Vaches point. Off I rt Neuf they extend three quarters of a mile out from the sandy peninsula. The eastern patch of tliese shoals, carrying 3| fathoms least water, and which might be dangerous to a vessel of heavy draught in a high sea, bears E. by N., and is distant 1 1 miles from the south- western end of the sand and clay cliffs at the entrance of Port Neuf river. Half way between Port Neuf and Mille Vaches point is the widest part of these sands, which there extend 1^ miles from the beach. There are from 20 to 30 fathoms close along their edge, and from 40 to 50 fathoms ftt the distance of a mile. • See Chart :— Biver St. Laurence, Fart 2, No. 310 ; scale, m s 0*25 of an inch. 238 GULF AND RIVER Of 8T. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST, [oiui-.ixi ▼Aoaas vonrr is low, aondy, and wooded with iipruco trticii. From its south extremity the North-west "cef of Bicquette bears S.S.E. 12| miles ; and the navigable breadth of the channel is di- minished by the Millo Vachos shoals to little more than 1 1^ miles. As the dangers on either side are so bold, and os the course of a vessel running up the Estuary must ever be more or loss uncertain in consequence of the sot of the tides and currents, this pass is justly considered dangerous to a vessel running up in dark nights or foggy weather. The only safe mode of proceeding, under such circumstances, is that which has been recoi imended in page 38. b&a VAOHas BAT, on the west side of Millo Vaches point, is very large, with several small rivers, which descend by falls or rapids down the granitic shores. The principal of these rivers is the Sault de Mouton, 4^ miles West from the point, and which has a full of 80 feet visible from a vessel when abreast of it. All the interior of this bay is occupied by shoals of sand, mud, and largo boulders, which dry at low water. ., In the western part of the bay the shoals ore extremely steep and dangerouR, but from where the Sault de Mouton bears North to where Mille Vfiches point comes upon the same bearing, comprising a space of 4^ miles, there is good warning by the lead ; the depth being 30 fathoms, upwards of 2 miles from the 3 fathoms edge of the shoals. . ,! • AWOHOmAOa. — There is anchorage in Mille Vaches bay in 15 fathoms, sand and mud bottom, with the south extremity of Mille Vaches point on with the inner or north side of the pine trees on the peninsula of Port Neuf, beoring N.E. \ E., at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the point, and three-quarters of a mile from the shoals. The shelter is from S.W. by W., round north, to N.E. by E. The ground is good, and there is not much tide. u :> i^i* * ■rtiK', Ttmv. uquAMXva zs&ars. — The course and distance across Mille Vaches bay to two large rocks, which have three small ones nearly a mile to the S.W. of them, and are called the Esquamine islets, is S.W. by W., nearly 12 miles. The coast to the south-westward, from these islets to Little Bergeron, a distance of 16 miles, consists of granite rock, steep and bold, and free from all danger, excepting a flat which occupies a bay on the west side of Cape Bondesir, but which does not extend above a quarter of a miU; outside of a line joining the points of the bay, and is consequently very little in the way of vessels. There are upwards of 50 fathoms watpr close to the rocks along this part of the coast. Tbe 'nsas are regular, increasing in strength as we approach the com- paratively narrow pass on either side of Ked islet. The flood is 'the oiUF.iz.] MILLE VACIIE8 bAY. — ESQUAMINU ISLETS. 239 Htronger tUlo of the two, tho obb being deflected over towardH the Bouthern Hhoro by tlio Htrcnm out of tbe great Saguonay river. The flood does not extend above 5 or 6 miles o'f tho north Hhore bclov^ Bergeron, and tho closer to that shore the stronger is the stream. Its rate at Millo Vaches point, Tvhere it does not extend far off shore, is from 1^ to 2 knots ; and off Bergeron from 2 to 8 knots, in spring tides. OBBAT ana 3UTT&a BBmomow are two coves separated by a points Tliey are both full of large boulders, which dry at low water, and have small streams at their heads. Little Bergeron is of the two the most to tho south* west. From it, the light on Green island bears S. by E. ^ E., 11^ miles ; and tho Saguenay cliffs, at the oast point of entrance of tho river, S.W. by W. i W., 5^ miles. This chapter is terminated at Little Bergeron cove, because the shoals off tho entrance of the river Saguenay, and tho passage between them and Red islet, belong, according to the arrangement adopted, to Fart II, Chap. X. '-HtM " . ; ■ ",/j,-^.,.<\,*;j""*-i'y*,A *•: n / (.'.i*-'. '.s.^r-Av* i,f'SJ ^ 'f '• '. « -^ ', ■;,;^^. ";((■ t-_- .,. .'1 eads to the eastward of the east end of the reef, which vessels sLuuiu approach no nearer than the depth of 10 fathoms at low water. The passage between the north-east end of the White Islet reef and Red islet is 6^ miles wide and free from danger. BAXB ZB&AxrB, about 1-^ miles to the S.W. of White islet, is 7^ miles long in the direction of the river, and less than a mile wide. Its height does not exceed 250 or 300 feet ; and it is of greywacke and slate rocks, dipping at a high angle to the south-east, and thickly wooded. The supply of water is extremely scanty on this large island, and fails entirely in the month of August in dry seasons. The soil is not good, and it has no inhabitants. POTS are three round-backed islets of steep greywack6 rocks, lying off the south-east side of Hare island, at the distance of a third of a mile. The northernmost islet is the largest and highest, being about 150 feet high, and covered with trees. The southernmost islet, separated from the former by a very narrow channel, dry at low water, . is white, and almost bare of trees. The north-easternmost islet is small . and wooded. The three islets together cover a triangular space about three quarters of a mile in diameter. The channel between them and. Hare island is only fit for boats. There is a good spring well on the south-west point of the northern islet, but it fails in very dry seasons. i Q 2 244 BIVEK ST. LAWBENCE. [OBAP. X. »T VOX BAKK. — The east point of the Brandy Pots bears S. by W. nearly 2 miles from the north-east end of Hare island ; it is extremely bold, but a bank, with from 1^ to 2| fathoms at low water, extends both to the north-east and south-west of it, and northward to the shore of Hare island. ▲JrcBOBAOB. — Small vessels anchor on this bank, half a mile to the south-west of the Brandy Pots, in 2| fathoms, hard clay and sand bottom, and well sheltered from easterly winds. Vessels of large draught anchor farther out in the stream, in from 9 to 14 fathoms at low water, this being considered an excellent anchorage, although so much exposed in easterly winds. The holding ground is excellent, the tides not very strong, and the sea not so heavy as might be expected. The anchorage to the east- ward of the islets in westerly winds is better sheltered, with a less depth of water. Vessels may go as near as the depth of 6 fathoms at low tide as far down as White islet, and have good ground and plenty of room ^ get under way. The Brandy Pots is the usual rendezvous for vessels bound down the St. Lawrence and waiting for a wind. A good mark for clearing the Brandy Pots bank for the first mile and a half to the south-west of those islets, as well as to guide vessels of large draught in anchoring with easterly winds is, not to shut the whole of White island in behind the south-east point of the Brandy Pots. The bank which extends to the north-east of the Brandy Pots will be cleared by keeping the whole of the Pilgrim islands open to the southward of the Brandy Pots, or by going no nearer than the depth of 5 fathoms in a large vessel. MJkMU xs&Awa SOVTB BSU* and BAiMK. — The part of this reef which the tide does not cover lies 2^ miles to the south-west of Hare island, is small and low, of shingle covered with grass and spruce bushes, and rests on slate rocks, which dry at low water for a considerable dis- tance from it, both up and down the river. This reef is situated towards the northern side of the Hare island bank, which is of great extent, with not more than 9 feet at low water, over the greater part of it. The eastern end of this bank, in 3 fathoms at low water, bears E. by N. ^ X. 3 miles from the reef. About a quarter mile to the westward of the east end of the bank, there is a small rocky knoll, with 2 fathoms least water, from which White islet is only just shut in behind the south side of Hare island ; and the south-west end of Hare island bears N.W. 1^ miles. A red buoy is moored near it in 3 fathoms, with the south side of Hare island and the middle of White islet in one, and the south-west end of Hare island bearing N.W. ^ W. At the distance of two-thirds of a mile from the east end of Hare island bank, there is a small 3-fathoms patch, bearing from Hare island South CHAT. X] MID-CHANNEL ISLANDS AND BANKS. 245 reef E. by N. ^ N.; and from the south -west end of Hare island E.S.E. 2 miles. It is thought that 4 fathoms can be carried through between this patch and the east end of the bank, hj keeping Hare island and White islet touching, but it is a narrow channel, and the bottom is so foul and uneven that we cannot be certain. The leading mark in the old Direc- tions, viz.. White islet, midway between Hare island and the Brandy Pots, clears the knoll, but leads right over the 3-fathomB patch. But in fact there is no channel here for a ship of heavy draught at low water, for a ridge of sand and rock, called the Middle bank, with not more than from 3^ to 4 fathoms in low tides, extends all the way from the Hare Island bank to the Middle shoal and nearly to Barrett ledge. Between Hare Island bank and the south-west end of Hare island there is an unfrequented channel half a mile wide, and with from 3^ to 4 fathoms water in it. To the south-west the Hare Island bank extends 6 miles from the reef of the same name, and its south-west end will be cleared m 3 fathoms, by keeping Kamourasca church just open to tho westward of Grande island, bearing S. by W. ^ W. A red buoy, in 4 fathoms, is placed on it, with tho north sides of Hare island and reef in one ; and two beacons in one on the east end of Grande island, Kamourasca. One of these beacons is red, the other white, and they bear when in one S.iE. AWOBOSAoa.~-There is good anchorage all along the south side of Hare Island bank in 7 fathoms, which depth is near enough for a vessel of large draught. BT &BBOBS are two small patches of rocks, a third of a mile apart, on a W. by S. line of bearing, and having 7 and 8 fathoms between them. There is equally deep water close to these rocks on all sides excepting the south-west ; and there are 10 and 11 fathoms within a quorter of a mile of the eastern rock. The western ledge has 12 feet, and the eastern 10 feet at low water. From the eastern ledge, the south-east point of the Brandy Pots bears W. ^ N. 2^ miles ; centre of White islet N.N.W. 3^ miles ; Loup point S.E. by S. 3 miles ; the south-east point of Great Pilgrim island is in one with a remarkable summit in the highlands of Kamourasca, bearing S.W. I S. ; and the south-west point of Hare island is in one with the south side of Eboulemens mountain, bearing W. by S. | S. Lastly, the •whole of the Bay of rocks, on the north shore, is well open to the east- ward of Hare island. The remarkable summit in the highlands of Kamourasca kept well open of the south-east point of the Great Pilgrim leads to the southward of the ledge ; and the south side of Eboulemens 1246 ^•'^y.f i RIVER ST. LAWBENCE. tcHAP. <. mountain, kept well shut in behind the south-west point of Hare island, leads to the northward of the ledge and also of the Middle shoal.* The western ledge lies exactly in the line joining Loup point with the north-east point of Hare island, and with the south-we&t side of the Bay of Rocks : the two last bearing in one from the rock N.W. ^ N. ; and the south point of the Brandy Pots W. ^ N. 2 miles. A chequered black and white buoy is moored on the north side of this ledgo in 6 fathoms, with the white diamond beacon on Hare island in line with the eastern extreme of the Brandy Pots ; and the south side of the southern- most mountain of Kamourasca in line with the south-east point of the Great Pilgrim. MI99&B SBOAK is a small patch of rocks at the north-east end of the Middle bank ; it has 10 feet least water, and bears from the western Barrett ledge S.W. ^ W. l^jj miles. There ai-e from 4 to 8 fathoms around and close to this shoal, and 5 fathoms between it and the ledge. It lies exactly in the line from the extreme of Loup point to the north- west point of the Brandy Pots, the latter bearing N.W. by W., and the south point of the same islands N.W. ^ W. IJ miles. A white buoy is moored upon it, in 10 feet water, from which the square white beacon on Hare island appears open to the westward of the Brandy Pots ; and the south-west end of Hare island in one with the summit of Eboulemens mountain. SOUTH SHORE, BELOW THE TRAVERSE. OXBBir ZSKAVB and SEnr, having been described in page 106, it is only necessary to add, in addition to the leading marks given for clearing the latter, that the south extreme of the Pilgrim islands touching the west extreme of Green island will also lead to the north-west of the reef in 5 fathoms : but the Pilgrims are so distant that they can only be made out from the reef in fine clear weather. Green island is of grey wack^ and slate rock ; wooded, and rising to about 250 feet above the sea. The channel between the island and the mainland is a mile wide in the narrowest part, and dries at low water, with the exception of a very narrow channel for boats. Green island extends 5 miles S.W. by W. from the lighthouse, with bold and rocky shores. Its south-west point is low and bare, and has a dangerous reef extending from it a mile to the westward, and curves out to the northward beyond the general line of the island, so as to * See Views B and C on Plan. f- CHAP. X.] SOUTH SHORE, BELOW THE TRAVERSE. 24/ bring the lighthouse to bear N.E. by E. | E. The north side of this reef is so bold that there is no -warning by the lead. At night, vessels should come no nearer to it on that side than 25 fathoms water, nor bring the light to bear to the northward of E.N.E., until the eastern end of Cacona bears S.S.E., which bearing leads it to the westward. The flood tide sets strongly over the tail of this reef towards Cacona, and the ebb the contrary. There is generally a great rippling o£f the end of the reef caused by the meeting of .the flood tides from either side of Green island. AirOBOXAOa. — Midway between the south-west end of Green Island reef and the Caf"^- \ r liere is good anchorag'" '^nA shelter from easterly winds, in 6 fathui...., mu. bottom, but there nuj v oe delay and diflficulty in getting out when the wind changed to the westward, on which account it is seldom used. *'■>' " • ' '• ' OACOITA is a remarkable rocky peninsula, about 1^ miles long, 300 or 400 feet high, and joined to the main by a low and marshy isthmus. Its west point bears S.W. by S. 3J miles from the south-west end of Green island, and is quite bold ; but a reef of slate, dry at low water, extends from it north-eastward to the Cacona rock, which is small, bare, bold, always above water, and distant 4 cables from the north point of Cacona. PBScaa ROCKS form a long reef which commences If miles to the south-westward of Cacona, and extends 2 miles farther in the same direction, parallel to the shore, from which it is distant about a mile. Two patches of rocks, about a mile apart, lie upon this extensive reef ; they can almost always be seen, since they are only covered in high tides. There is a narrow channel, with 3^ fathoms water in it, between this reef and the mainland. Green island and Cacona peninsula, just touching, and bearing N.E. by E., lead along the north side of the Percee rocks in 3 fathoms water ; there- fore keep those marks open, and they will lead to the northward. Loup River church on with Loup point, bearing S. f W., will lead fully half a mile to the westward. At night come no nearer to these rocks than 8 fathoms water, for they are very bold to the northward. KOUP ftlVBS, the entrance to which is 5| miles S.W. ^ S. from the west point of Cacona, and 5 miles S.E. by E. from the Brandy Pots, i.s a considerable stream, opening to the westward, with 3 feet at low water in its entrance. Boats can ascend it about a mile at any time excepting at low water, and vessels have laid aground just within the entrance, and taken in their cargoes of lumber ; but it was not found to answer, and they now 248 RrVER 8T. LAWRENCE* [OHAF.X. load outside. Recently a pier has been constructed, having 16 feet water at its end in the lowest tides. There are rapids, mills, and a bridge, rather more than a mile up the river, where boats may bo sent for water when the tide is in. jurOHOBAOB. — The anchorage off Loup river is better sheltered than that of the Brandy Pots in easterly winds, and is well sheltered in south-west winds also, but the riding is very heavy with a gale from the northward. The best berth is rather to the eastward of the lino joining the point of the river and the Brandy Pots, in 4^ fathoms, mud bottom, and from three-quarters to a mile off shore. Farther to the south-west there is less water and bad ground on Loup bank, which consists of slate, thinly covered with sand and mud, and extends 3 miles out from the shore to the 3 fathoms line, reaching from the river in a W.S.W. direction as far as the Pilgrim islands. n&OBZM BBOAA is a long and narrow ridge of red slate rocks, thbly covered with sand, and extending 4 miles S.W. -J W. or parallel to the northern edge of the Loup bonk. The shoal is not above a third of a mile wide, and has from 12 to 15 feet least water. The channel between it and the Loup bank is less than 2 cables wide, and with only S^ fathoms water in it. On the eastern end of this shoal, in 3 fathoms, the north-east end of the trees of Hare island and the eastern side of the Brandy Pots are in one, bearing N. by E. ; Cape Eagle and the north-east Bide of Hare Island reef are just open, W. i^ S. ; St. Andre point is seen through between the Great and Middle Pilgrims, S.W. | W. ; and the east point of the Pilgrim islands bears S.W. by S. 3^ miles. On the south-west end of the Pilgrim shoal, Cape Salmon appears well open to the westward of the Hare Island reef, the south-west side of the latter bearing W.N.W., and the north-east end of the Long Pilgrim bears S.S.E. three quarters of a mile. A black buoy is moored on the north- west extreme of the shoal in 4^ fathoms, on the line uniting the western end of Hare island and the western end of Great Pilgrim island ; and with White islet and the west end of the Brandy Pots touching. The ship channel between this buoy and Hare island bank i» a mile wide. ytae VI&OBIM8 are five islands of greywack^ rock, and their eastern point bears S.W. by W. 7f miles from Loup point. The two western- most islands are nearly white, bare of trees, and so nearly joined together as to appear like one i hence they are called the Long Pilgrim, and form a narrow precipitous ridge 3 mile? long, in a S.W. ^ W. direction. The two Middle Pilgrims and the Great Pilgrim, which is the easternmost, are connected by reefs, dry at low water ; but between them and tho CBAP.Z.] SOUTH SHORE, BELOW THE TRAVEHSE. 249 Long Pilgrim there is a narrow channel, with not more than 2 feet water in one part, but having a deep hole with 4 fathoms exactly between tho Long and the Westernmost Middle Pilgrim. The Middle and Great Pilgrims extend about If miles to the eastward of the Long Pilgrim, and the whole extent of these islands is about 4} miles, in a direction parallel to the shore, from which thej are distant 1^ miles. The Great or eastern Pilgrim is the highest, being about 300 feet high, partially wooded with scrubby spruce trees, and is very remarkable.* Shoal water, less than 5 fathoms, extends from a half to three-quarters of a mile off the northern side of the Long Pilgrim, being widest at the south-west end. There is no channel between tho Pilgrims and the main, where it is so shallow that carts can cross in low tides. The church of St. Andr^ is on the mainland, opposite to the south-west end of the Pilgrims ; and St. Andr^ point, a small and high rocky peninsula, lies to the westward of it. AirOBOBAOa. — There is anchorage for small vessels in westerly winds under the Long Pilgrim, and abreast of the Great Pilgrim in 2^ fathoms. ST. AVBfta BAmc extends from the Pilgrims to the Kamourasca islands, and in many places dries out more than a mile from the shore. Its northern edge is very steep, but there is an excellent mark for it, viz., the south sides of Burnt and Grande islands in line, bearing S.W. | W., which leads along it at the distance of from 1^ to 2 cables from the 8 fathoms line of soundings. XAMOVSASCA xs&AMTBS He nearly 6 miles to the south-westward of the Pilgrims, and 2^ miles from the mainland, to which they are joined by shoals which dry at low water. Grande island is the north-easternmost, and together with Burnt island extends about 2 miles along the northern edge of the bank. On the eastern end of Grande island there are two beacons, the one red, and the other white. When in one, and bearing S. \ E., they form a cross mark for the red buoy on the south-west end of the Hare Island bank in 4 fathoms (page 244). These islands are long and narrow ridges of greywacke rock, and are extremely bold to the northward, there being 20 fathoms water close to them. Crow island lies about three quarters of a mile to the S.S.W. of Burnt island, and there are besides two small and bare rocky islets to the eastward of Crow island, and within Burnt island. Crow island is distant about three quarters of a mile from the shore at the church and to^vn of Kamourasca, and carts can cross to it at low water. There is a wharf and • See Yie-fr B in Plan. ^50 »*/,.. BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OUAP. S. good landing near the church, and water may bo obtained at any timo of tide when there iH depth enough for boats over the shoals, but there is no water on the islandn. lOVSASOA BAT, which is immediately to the south-west of the town, is well sheltered, and small vessels may safely lie aground and winter there, on a mud bottom, which dries at low water. Moreover, this is a place where vessels in distress, when they have lost their anchors, may be saved by running them in at high water, between the reef of Cape Diable and Crow island, leaving the latter from a quarter to half a mile to the eastward in passing ; and when within the reef, hauling into the bay to the S.W. In high spring tides 13 or 14 feet of water will be found over the mud, but in neap tides there is seldom more than 9 or 10 feet. .,.:.; ; .^w^ AWOBOXAOB. — There is good anchorage off Kamourasca with the prevailing winds up and down the river, but exposed to north-west winds. The best berth to anchor in is where the church of Kamourasca is just open to the westward of Crow island, bearing S.E. ^ E., and Grande island just open to the northward of Burnt island, N.E. f E. There 7 fathoms over stiff mud will be found at the distance of 4 cables from the 3 fathoms edge of the bank. Large vessels wishing for more room may anchor farther out anywhere to the westward. . ,. ;, OAVB BIAB&B. — Three miles S.W. by W. from Crow island, across the bay of Kamourasca (all dry at low water), is Cape Diable, from which reefs of slate extend north-eastward, more than half way to Crow island, and north-westward three quarters of a mile ; in which last direction the distance out to the 3 fathoms edge of the bank is nearly 1^ miies. « oBXOiraAUX vonrr. — St. Denis point is nearly 3 miles to the W.S.W., and Origneaux point 7| miles W. by S. \ S. from Cape Diable. Origneaux point (where a landing-pier, 1,200 feet long, and with 15 feet water at its end in the lowest tides, has recently been erected) is an extreme of the land running out to within three-quarters of a mile of the edge of the bank, and the land trends from it S.W. | S. 1^ miles to Iroquois point, and 4 miles to Quelle point, where the distance out to the 3 fathoms edge of the bank increases again to fully 2 miles. OirB&&B has its entrance to the westward on the south «ide of Quelle point. In high spring tides, 15 feet water can be carried into ■this river, and up to the bridge at the viliage, and near the church of the same name, about 1^ miles from the entrance. The church and village of St. Anne has some very remarkable hills near it, and stands upon rising ground S. ^ W. 3| miles from Quelle CUAr. X.] SOOTH SHORE, BELOW THE TRAVERSE. 95r 18 no point. Tho church and village of St. Roquo ia nearly 8J miles S.W. ^ W. from tho Hume point ; and nearly three-quarterH of a mile to tho eastward of St. Roquo point. •T. Boqva vonrr bears S.W. by W. 9 miles from Quelle point ; and from this lino to the shore, a distance of 2^ miles, the bay of St. Anne dries at low water, tho bottom being mud, but with thousands of boulderH or laigo stones. • ■ • • Tho bank of shoal water, extending from tho south shore to the dis- tances which have been mentioned at tho principal points, continues in a W.S.W. direction all the way from the Kamourasca islands to the Tra- verse, and beyond that passage, the south side of which it forms. Off St. Anno and St. Ruque, this bank takes the name of these villages, being known by the name of the Shoiils of St. Anne and St. Roquo. ■ ' ■BOA&8 of ST. Ainra extend fully 5 miles out from the high water mark, and are very dangerous. They are of sand and mud thickly strewed with very largo stones, many of which show at low water. The St. Anne buoy is black, and moored on the north-western edge of these shoals in 2J fathom:4, with St. Anne church bearing S.E. | S. and Cape Diablo open to the nortliward of St. Denis point. All along the edge of the bank, from Kamourasca up to tbis buoy, there is excellent anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms, stiff mud bottom. The shoals trend in a S.W. W. -^ W. direction nearly 5 miles from the St. Anne buoy to tho light vessel at the Traverse, which is moored on the outer point of the shoals of St. Roque, and is described in page 270 of the next chapter, whore will be found a brief description and direc- tions for tho Traverse. ■xro&ZBB BAsrx is a ridge of sund, varying in breadth from half to 1^ miles, and extending north-eastward from the Middle Ground of the Traverse. For the first 7 or 8 miles (that is down to about abreast the river Oue lie) it runs nearly parallel to the edge of the Shoals of St. Anne, at the average distance of a mile ; farther eastward it trends to the northward toAvards Murray bay, which it approaches to within 2^ miles, and its north-eastern extremity in 10 fathoms is more than half a mile to the westward of a line from the church at that place to the church at Kamourasca. On the western and greater part of this bank the depth is between 6 and 8 fathoms; and on the eastern part from 9 to 11 fathoms. The English and Hare island banks have been made to join in the old charts and directions, but that is an error, since there is a distance bf 7 or 8 miles between them, in which the river is deep from shove to shore, as will be seen by the Admiralty plans. 252 RITEB ST. LAWRENCE. [qbap.i. SOUTH CHANNEL, BELOW THE TRAVERSE. < onrsBAA oaaaBVATSows. — The South channel is justly preforrod for tho common purposes of navigation. In that part of it which is hulow the Traverse, the tides are not so strong nor tho water so inconveniently deep OS they are in the corresponding part of the North channel below Coudres island. Moreover it possesses good anchorage almost in every part, and water enough fur vessels of tho largest draught at all times of tho tide. It is true that several of our line of battle ships and largo frigates have touched the ground in passing the south-west end of Hare island, but that has arisen from their following tho usual route to tho northward of the Barrett ledges, and into the Brandy Pot channel : a course which has been erroneously represented in former directions as always to be preferred by vessels of large draught. It is, on tho contrary, only ships of heavy draught which need to shun that course, as entailing upon them tho necessity of crossing the Middle bank in from 3^ to 4 fathoms at low water, or even in a less depth, if they cross it according to tho old directions, with White island open between Hare island and the Brandy Pots. There is deep water, from 14 to 20 fathoms, between the Middle bank and Hare island, but it ends in a " cul de sac ;" there is no getting out of it into the main channel without crossing tho Middle bank to tho south- ward, which should never bo attempted in a ship of the line or very heavy frigate before halt flood. It would, however, be far better for such heavy ships to pass to tho southward of tho Barrett ledges, Middle shoal, and Middle bank, where the channel is direct, and for a very large shiji (that is, from 5 fathoms to 5 fathoms at low water) a mile wide in tho narrowest part, with from 6 to 11 fathoms water over clay and mud bottom. With the assistance of the buoys placed on the Middle shoal, on the knoll near the eastern end of Hare Island bank, and on the northern edge of the Pilgrim shoal, (see pages 244, 245, 248,) a ship of the line might beat up or down with safety. The circumstance which has given a preference to the Brandy Pot channel to the northward of the Barrett ledges, and which will continue to do so for the common purposes of navigation, is the advantageous posi- tion of the anchorage at the Brandy Pots, especially in northerly winds, when it is absolutely necessary that vessels bound down the river should be to windward on account of the rapid tide setting to the southward from between the White Islet reef and Red islet. Moreover vessels bound to sea usually rendezvous at the Brandy Pots to wait for a wind, or the tide: .X] SOUTH CHANNEL) BELOW THE TRAVEBSEt 253 one ebb being nufilciont, with a modorsteljr good working broeie, to toko them down l)clow Groon inland, whoro they can alwaya gain ground to the eastward whilst the weather remains fine. The Brandy Pots also are about the point that a fair sailing merchant vessel can reach in one flood from the anchorage under Green Inland reef, where they usually wait for the tide when beating up with westerly winds. Referring to pages 47 and 106 for the approach to Red islet and Green Island reef, wo shall proceed to give brief directions for ascending the river by the South channel. 9IBBOTIO»S from OSSaiT and ma» U&AWBB to tho MMMMVT VOX*. — Vessels arriving as high up as Green island by day, with clear weather and a fair wind, will require little information beyond that which the Admiralty plans furnish, for their guidance to anchorage oif oithor the Brandy Pots or Loup point, where they may waif for a pilot, or proceed farther as they moy prefer. They will of courno observe thr clearing marks and directions for Green Island reef. Red Islet reef, the Barrett ledges, and Perc<;e rocks (in pages 242 to 251), and thai, tho Bvandy Pots and Hare island, touching and bearing S.W. by W.,* lead thrc-ugh betw ..n Green island and Rod islet nearly in mid channel, and servo as an exce' a it guide to vessels bound either up or down in this part of the river. The rate and directions of the strong tides can never bo safelj a , .lected, but must be especially attended to at night, or in thick weathe , \7ith a side wind, too, their oblique direction across the river must be allowed for. In a vessel coming up the river, and being under the north shore with a northerly wind, proceed as follows * —If wishing to take the South channel, bring tho Green island lighthouse and beacon in one, bearing 8.S.E, and run down upon this leading mark (passing to the eastward of the red buoy on tho east end of Red islet reef), till White islet is opened fully twice its own breadth to the northward of Hare island. Then haul up, and if the tide be flood she has merely to take care not to close thoso marks for clearing tho south side of Red Islet bank, which, -with the flood, she need not approach nearer itu^-: the depth of 10 fathoms. It is of consequence to observe (more partieuwirly with a southerly wind than in this case) that the flood seta through between Red islet and the White Islet reef, and strongly over tl'.- > tail of the latter into the North channel. But with the ebb tide a vessel must luff up close under the Red Islet bank, taking care howevfr to keep White islet fully twice its own breadth open to the northward of Hare island, and not to approach the bank nearer than 7 fathoms water, till Red islet bears N.W., when she can keep her * See Vieir A. on Flan. 254 .M^Ejw/* RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.^ yi'tn^Si [chap. X.' lufF as close as it may be found necessary to prevent her being set over to the lee shore by the strong ebb coming from the North channel between White and Red islets, and setting over towards Green Island reef. The same marks (White islet open of Hare island) may be kept on until she approaches the White Islet reef to 10 fathoms water, or the black buoy on its east end, when she must edge away along the south side of that reef, where the tides set fairly up and down the river, and are of moderate strength. It is scarcely necessary to mention that in the voyage down the river also, these tides must be attended to. For instance, with a northerly wind and ebb tide, keep well to windward under the White Islet reef, and so as not to be set down towards the Green Island reef. With a southerly wind and flood tide, on the contrary, a vessel must keep well to the southward, in order to avoid being carried by the tide into the North channel. ; ' At Mlctat, when the lights on Green and Red islands can be seen, their bearings and the soundings in the chart will prove suffieient guides, even although the land should not be seen. In a vessel under the north shore, coming up with a northerly wind, bring the Green island light to bear S.S.E., and bear up across the tail of the Red Islet bank, allowing for the tide so as to keep the light on that bearing. Whilst crossing towards the light on that bearing she will have 11 or 12 fathoms when in the stream of the bank, and be 1^ miles distant from its eastern end in 3 fathoms water. Keep the lead quickly hove, and if the tide be flood, care must be taken that it does not set her too near the end of the bank. The depth of 10 fathoms is as near as she ought to go at night. Continue the course towards the Green island light until the soundings deepen to 20 fathoms, or until the Red islet light bears W.S.W., then haul to the south-westward under the Red Islet bank. Pass it in 20 fathoms water, which is near enough for a stranger at night, and when the Green island light bears S.E. by E. ^ E., she will be on the line from it to Red islet light, which will be distant about 1^ miles. From this position the south point of the Brandy Pots will bear S.W. ^ W., 13^ miles ; but bear ill mind what has been said of the set of the tides between Red islet and the White Islet reef, and the course must be regulated accordingly, the vessel being guided also by the bearing of the light and more especially by the soundings in the plan. In a vessel coming up, with an easterly wind, as directed in page 43, and having made the Green island light, run up in 20 fathoms until she is within 3 miles of it, or till it begins to bear to the southward of S.W. Then haul out into more than 30 fathoms, and run up in the deep water, till the light bears S.E., when bhe will be well past the reef, CHAP. Z.J SOUTH CHANNEL, BELOW THE TRAVERSE. 255 and may continue to run up, coming no nearer to Green island than 2^ fathoms water, in order to avoid its western reef (page 246). Violent and breaking ripplings, which change their position with the time of tide^' will be met with between Green and Red islands, but there is no danger' beyond those which are shown in the charts. An easterly gale against the ebb tide causes a heavy sea. As soon as the vessel has passed Cacona, and wishing to make the Brandy Pots, haul over to the north-westward, towards White islet, into 9 or 10 fathoms, and run up in that depth till those islands are seen ; do not come to the southward into deeper water for fear of the Barrett ledges.. If wishing to run up to the southward of that ledge, keep Green island light only just shut in behind the west end of Green island, bearing N.E. by E.^ sheering to the northward occasionally to sight it, or going no farther to the southward than 8 fathoms until sure that the Ferc^e rocks are passed. The Green island light only just shut in behind, or kept only just in sight over the low west extreme of Green island, bearing N.E. by E., will lead clear to the southward of the Barrett ledges, and nearly in mid-channel between the Middle bank and Pilgrim shoal. It is seldom, however, that the light can be seen so far as the latter. Whenever it disappears, pro- viding there is a cf -tainty that the vessel is past the Perc^e rocks, haul to the southward into 6 or 7 fathoms, and run up along the south side of the" channel in that depth, consulting the charts ; or anchor till daylight, as may be preferred. We have given no direction as to what course should be steered, or what distance run, because they must vary with the circumstances of tide and wind. The courses and distances from one place to another will be seen on the charts, but the bearings of the light, or the land, combined with the soundings, can alone be trusted for the safe conduct of a vessel in such a navigation. In beating Winds, as the set of the tides has been mentioned, and will moreover be seen in the charts, it seems only necessary to observe that a vessel waiting tide under Green Island reef, should not wait for the stream of flood to make, but should weigh as soon as it is low water by the shore. She should then stand across the remaining stream of the ebb towards the tail of the Red Islet bank, where she will meet the first of the flood, and should work up in it as far as Red islet, by which time the flood will have made on both sides, and she may therefore stand over to the southward. Generally speaking the ebb is very strong, the water deep,, and the bottom not good for anchoring below Cacona ; nevertheless in case of the wind failing, vessels are sometimes anchored in about 20 fathoms any where along the shore of Green island above the light- 256 BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OBAP.Z. house. The tides are not strong there, but the ground is bad, and the vessel so near the shore that the occurrence of a strong northerly Trind would be attended with much danger. Most merchant vessels, with a good working breeze, can beat from below Green Island reef to the Brandy Pots in one tide. In neap tides, however, it is often not easily accomplished, for the flood is then imperceptible in the centre of the passage, and a vessel can beat against it with ease. BX&BCTZOWS fkrom the B»JUn>T VOTS to tbe TKAVBBSa. — Yessels proceeding up the river from the Brandy Pots may cross the Middle bank anywhere to the westward of a line from the western point of those islands to Loup River church, and to the eastward of Hare Island bank (see page 244). But if they wish to have more than 3 or 3^- fathoms, they must depart from the old directions, and cross with White islet open to the eastward, instead of westward of the Brandy Pots. The north- east extreme of the trees of Hare island, just open to the eastward of the Brandy Pots, is a good line to cross upon. We do not think there is less than 4 fathoms in ordinary spring tides upon that line. Having crossed the Middle bank, and deepened the water to the south- ward into 8 fathoms, steer S.W. by W., and if the compasses are correct, the black buoy on the north-west extreme of the Pilgrim shoal and the Kamourasca islands will be a little on the port bow. If the weather be clear. Burnt island will be distinguished from Grande island by the time the vessel is abreast of the Great Pilgrim. Open the north side of Burnt island, only just in sight to the northward of Grande island, bearing S.W. ^ W., and keep it so as a leading mark, should the buoy not be in its place, to clear the western part of the Pilgrim shoal (see page 248). When past that shoal, with a leading wind and clear weather, nothing more seems requisite than to pay attention to the soundings in the charts, and regulate the course accordingly; S.W. by W., allowing for deviation, will lead past the Kamourasca islands, after which a vessel must incline more to the westward, following the edge of the South bank in 8 or 9 fathoms up to the black buoy on the Shoals of St. Anne. Zn tUolL weather, or at nlvlit, after crossing the Middle bank to the southward, as before directed, either one side of the channel or the other should be taken as n guide for running up by the lead, say in 7 fathoms. Either side may be taken as high up as the middle of the Long Pilgrim, after which the south side of Hare Island bank must be followed in the same depth ; for the western part of the Long Pilgrim, the St. Andr6 bank, and the Kamourasca islands, have deep water close to them, affording no guidaLce by the lead. After having passed the red buoy on the south-west end of the Hi'ie Island bank, and proceeded 5 or 6 miles r BELOW C0UDRE8 ISLAND. AM9KCT. — The northern shore of the St. Lawrence from the Saguenay river to Coudres island is bold and mountainous. The granitic hills in most parts rise immediately from the river, forming steep or precipitous headlands. Near the entrance of the Saguenay these hills are not above 1,000 feet high, but those of Eboulemens attain an elevation of 2,547 feet above high-water ordinary springs. At page 239, the coast of the Estuary was described up to Little Berge- ron cove ; we shall now recommence from that point, and proceed with the description to the westward. ▼AOBBS »oz»T, the east point of entrance of the Saguenay river, bears S.W. by W. ^ W. about 6 miles from Little Bergeron cove ; and N.W. I N. 6J miles from Red islet. The high clay cliffs at this point are easily recognized ; they are known by the name of the Saguenay cliffs. From the anchorage of Moulin Baude, in 7 fathoms, mud, these cliffs bear W. by S., distant 3 miles, and Red islet and the south-west end of Green island are in one ; the vessel will here be 4 cables' distant from the 3 fathoms line of soundings and nearly a mile off shore. The water becomes [ST. L.]— VOL. I. B 258 ^■^ri' BIVEB ST. LAWRENCE. 1;^ .'!'1l [OHAT. X. deep immediatelj outside this anchorage, which is of use to vessels coming up under the north shore with a scant north-west wind, at the end of the flood and close of the day, and wishing to wait for the next flood, or for daylight ; also for vessels waiting for a wind to enter the Saguenay. ▼ACBas VATOH. — ^Vaches reef dries out half a mile from Yaches point, and shallow water continues nearly to Vaches patch, which bears .S.W. by W. 1| miles from Vaches point. A black buoy in 2^ fathoms points out its position ; and there is a chequered black and wkite buoy nearly a mile to the southward of it, in 3 fathoms on the Outer patch, which is near the eastern end of the Bar reef. These buoys, and also the tphite buoy at the outer extreme of the Lark reef, and the marks and beacons for placing them, will be found described in page 303, which describes the Saguenay river. p, the south-western point of entrance of the Saguenay, bears S.W. ^ S. 2^ miles from Vaches point, and is also of clay cliffs, but much lower than those of Vaches point. Lark islet, small and low, lies off this point a mile to the E.N.E. and is joined to it by sand and boulders dry at low water. ' ' ^ • MWMr is of sand and boulders, dry at low water nearly out to the edge of the shoal water, which extends nearly 3^ miles in a S.S.E. direction from Lark point. Lark patch, near the southern end of this reef, never covers, and outside of it, in 4^ fathoms water, lies the white buoy above mentioned. Between this extensive reef, and those which extend 1| miles S.E. from Vaches point, is the entrance of the Saguenay river ; but, as the navigation of that river is quite distinct from that of the St. Lawrence, we shall reserve it for a future chapter, and have here only mentioned the extensive reefs off its entrance, in so far as they are dangers to be avoided by vessels bound up the North channel of the St. Lawrence. The mark for leading clear of those reefs and of Lark reef is so distant that it can seldom be made out even in fine weather. It is the western sides of the Brandy Pots and White islet in one, and open to the southward of Hare island, bearing S.S.W. f W. Running on this mark a vessel will pass outside of all the dangers off the entrance of the Saguenay, including Lark reef, which she will pass in 5 fathoms at low water, and at the distance of about half a mile from its 3 fathoms edge. There are rocky patches farther out on which the least water found was 7^ fathoms ; if it be wished to pass outside of them, the Brandy Pots must be opened out to the southward of White islet. ^ aj*'- «4 si ^HAF.x.] NORTH SHQRE, BELOW C0UDBE8 ISLAND. 259 dJUTASB SXVBB is a small stream, celebrated for wild ducks, at the western termination of the claj cliffs, 2^ miles S.W. of Lark point, and can only be approached in a boat near high water. ' -^ji,,^ .j:.s aoKATAVB xuxiXV. — This is a small, steep, and rocky islet, lying off the mouth of a cove full of rocks 5 miles S.W. of Lark point. The Lark reef terminates close to the south-westward of the Echafaud, after having trended for 5 miles in a W. by S. direction from its south-east extreme. OAPB BABQVa is the first mountainous headland south-west of the Saguenay, bearing S.W. ^ S., 6J miles from Lark point. It is quite bold, having 20 fathoms close to it. BA8QVB BOAB, between Cape Basque and Lark reef, is a good anchorage, well sheltered by the reef from easterly winds, and by the mainland from all northerly and westerly winds, as far to the southward as S.W. There is plenty of room for many vessels, but the best berth is with Echafaud islet bearing W.N.W., and distant rather less than a mile, where the vessel will be in 10 or 11 fathoms, with clay bottom, and at the distance of nearly half a mile from the 3 fathoms line. Vessels may anchor farther out in 13 fathoms ; but the farther out the stronger the tide. At the anchorage we have recommended the tides are not strong, and the holding ground is everywhere very good. There is no anchorage on the north shore to the south-west of this before we arrive 'J, Murray bay, a distance of 28 miles. .. ' OAVB B008, 5^ miles S.W. from Cape Basque, is quite bold, high, precipitous, and of bare granite. Half way between these capes is the Bay of Bocks, having an island and many large rocks in it, as its name implies, and affording shelter only to boats. ' -v:- •; '5 ■i ■: OAVB SAXiMOir is high and bold, like Cape Dogs, from which it bears S.W. 9|^ miles. Between these Capes are Shettle Port, Black river, and Port Parsley, at the distances of 2^, 4|, and 7^ miles respec- tively from Cape Dogs. They are merely places for boats. ^,. .. . • ,, OAVB BAO&B is 5^ miles S.W. by W. | W. from Cape Salmon, and of the same bold, high, and precipitous character. The bay between these capes is a mile deep, but affords no anchorage for shipping in consequence of the great depth of water. In it is Port Salmon, a small cove which largo boats can enter at high water, situated about 1 J miles to the westward of Cape Salmon. The settlements on the north shore are beginning to spread to the eastward of this place, and they are con- tinuous from it all along the coast to Quebec. -^iV . a.'^ mi^iik^ iia»*«fll R 2 260 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAP. X« LT BAT, 6^ miles W. by S. from Cape Eagle, is about 1^ miles wide and nearly as deep ; but it is all dry at low water, excepting the very shallow channels leading to the river at its head. The river is rapid and unnavigable, flowing down a beautiful valley from two or three small lakes among the hills. There are not many places in Canada that can be justly compared with this for beauty of scenery. There is a church and village round the head of the bay, and the settlements extend some miles back from the St. Lawrence. There are grist and saw mills on the river. At the latter deals are made, and are for the most part shipped to Quebec in small schooners, which lie aground near or in the entrance of the river ; occasionally, however, vessels anchor off, and take in cargoes of lumber. Recently a pier has been constructed here, having 18 feet of water at its end in the lowest tides. Slight shocks of earthquakes are not infrequent at Murray bay, and also at Eboulemens, St. Pauls bay, and the neighbourhood. AHTOKOKAOB. — ^The anchorage off Murray bay is close under the high rocky shore, a little to the eastward of the bay, with Pique point, its east point, bearing W. by N. distant about 4 cables; Gaze point, its west pointy S.W. ^ W., and Heu point E. by N. | N. The bottom is of clay, good for holding, and the depth 10 or 12 fathoms at the distance of about 3 cables from the shore, but not above a quarter of a mile from the edge of the shoal water. Vessels here will be out of the strength of the tides, well sheltered from the prevailing winds, and in safety if well moored, although inconveniently near the shore except in the case of a vessel taking in her lading. It is possible to anchor a little farther out in 15 or 16 fathoms, but the tides are there very strong. , , ; .,. DXSacTZoars. — ^In running up from the eastward to anchor in Murray bay, give the shore a berth of a third of a mile, in order to avoid the shoal ; ater which extends nearly a quarter of a mile off shore half way between Cape Eagle and the anchorage. In running down from the westward, keep Cape Sain, the first point westward of Pique point, just open to the southward of the latter, in order to clear the edge of the shoal water which fills Murray bay ; and when the church bears N.W., a vessel may haul in towards the anchorage. ;, .^ CKtOSia OiLFB is bold and rocky, and about 9] miles S.W. ^ S. from Pique point, the west point of Murray bay. At Mai bay, and in Little Mai bay, between those two points, the shoals dry out a quarter of a mile from the shore, but there is no good anchorage. r, the east point of Eboulemens Lay, is 3 miles W. by S. from Goose cape. The shore between them is very slightly indented, and .CBAP.x] NORTH 8H0BE, BELOW COUDRES ISLAND. 261 the shoals dry out about a quarter of a mile, that is, nearly to a line joining the two capes. Nearly half way between these, but rather nearer Ooose cape, a stream descends a ravine, and off the mouth of the latter there is a very large boulder stone called Grosse rock. A landing pier has recently been constructed at Eboulemons having 9^ feet water at its extreme end in the lowest tides. AsroHOSAoa. — The anchorage between Capes Goose and Martin is good, and well sheltered from easterly winds. It must be remembered, however, that the tides will be found rather strong if the vessel be anchored farther out than is recommended, whereas in the proper berth both streams are of moderate strength. When at anchor too far out in 8^ fathoms, with only a neap tide, the strength of which was, however, aided by an easterly •wind, the first of the flood was observed coming round Goose cape with a great rippling. At first it set slanting on the shore at the rate of 5 knots, but soon decreased to 3^ knots. About an hour from its commencement the stream increased again to 4^ knots, and after continuing at that rate only for a short time, decreased to 2^ knots, which rate it retained for the remainder of the tide, setting fairly along shore. Farther out still, that is, in 10 fathoms, the ebb also will be found strong as well as the fiood. To avoid these strong tides, anchoi in 7 fathoms, with Grosse rock above mentioned bearing N. by W., and Cape Corbeau, the east point of St. Pauls bay, only just shut in behind Cape Martin, bearing W. ^ S. Here a vessel will have good holding ground, and will bo about 4 cables distant from the shore at high water, but only half that distance from the 3 fathoms edge of the shoals. Small vessels anchor farther to the eastward, close in under Goose cape, which bears from the anchorage recommended E. by N. -^ N. 1^ miles. Mount Eboulemens is about 3 miles to the northward of that anchorage, and one of the highest summits on the northern shore of the St. Lawi'ence, being 2,547 feet above the high water in ordinary springs. The east end of Coudres island bears from Cape Martin S.W. by S. 2 J miles. • ' " NORTH CHANNEL, BELOW COUDRES ISLAND. oawBSAXi OBSBSVATIOV8. — ^The channel to the northward of Red islet and its bank, and between the latter and the shoals off the Saguenaj river, is 3^ miles wide, from 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms, and with very deep crater between. Farther westward, the North channel is much wider, excepting in one place, and even there it is nearly 3^ miles in breadth. Thus, between Cape Dogs and Hare island It is 4 miles wide ; between 262 .ti'^'A. RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 'tth^n [oiu». ». I M Cape Salmon and the Hare island bank it is 3^ miles wide, and this is the narrowest part of the channel. About 5 miles farther to the westward, the islands and banks, which divide the river into two channels, cease for a time. Thus, between Cape Eagle and the east end of Grande island^ Kamourasca, there is but one channel, 7^ miles wide ; the line from the Cape to the east end of the island passing the western extreme of Hare Island bank in 5 fathoms. c » t*- .^ '^ ' 1 The river continues thus clear from detached shoals, and with deep water from side to side, for a distance of 6 or 7 miles, or until we arrive opposite Murray bay, which is opposite to Cape Diable on the south shore, and distant from it 10^ miles. A line drawn from the east point of the ■bay to that ca])e will pass over the north-east extreme of the Lnglish bank in about 1 1 fathoms, and to the westward of this line the river may be considered as again divided into two channels by the English bank, although there is ivater enough over the latter for the largest ships until it joins the Middle ground about 3 miles below the buoys of the Traverse. The breadth of the St. Lawrence between Goose cape and Quelle point i9 nearly 8 miles, but the navigable breadth is diminished by the Shoals of St. Anne to 5 miles. „ . r ^ .- < .i ,; t '-■ i? If The North channel from Red islet to Coudres island has a depth cf water ucually exceeding 30 and sometimes 50 fathoms ; it therefore affords no anchorage excepting those which we have described in the last Section. A vessel, however, might anchor on the north side of the Hare Island bank, and the English bank is common to both channels, but it i§ only in fine weather that vessels could ride in such exposed situations. In time of need a vessel may also anchor all along the north side of Hare island and White Island reef, but the ground is generally bad, and the vessel, in consequence of the deep water, must be too close in shore for safety, especially in the event of a strong north-west wind occurring. It is this want of good and convenient anchorages which rerders this part of the North channel unfit for general use. In the South channel, a vessel above Cacona can anchor almost anywhere, or at any time when it may become necessary ; but in the North, in the event of its falling calm, she would be left at the mercy of the strong tides, and might be in danger of being set on shore if she were in the neighbourhood of Red islet or the shoals off the Saguenay. In other respects the North channel is a fine, wide, and straight channel, entirely unembarrassed by detached shoals, and therefore there seems no reason why it should not be used occasionally when circumstances may render it advantageous to do so ; as in the case of scant and strong north-west winds likely to continue, as they generally are in the fall of the year, and when it would be, for obvious reasons, desirable to keep the north shore aboard. .... J OBAr.z.] NORTH CHANNEL, BELOW COUDRES ISLAND. 263 deep :-f» is/ With easterly winds and thick weather, or at night, this channel should never be attempted ; for as the leading marks could not then be seen, and the soundings are too deep and irregular to supply the requisite guidance, a vessel would be very likely to meet with a fatal accident under such circumstances. Besides the meeting of the ebb tides down the St. Law- rence and out of the Saguenay, at the rate of 5 or 6 knots, and their op> position to the heavy swell up the Estuary in north-east gales, causes a very heavy breaking sea, which it would be difficult to distinguish from shoal water. However, supposing the circumstances such as to render it desirable for a vessel to take the North channel, attend to the following directions :•— : BiBBOTiows. — If with a strong north-west wind a vessel has kept the north shore aboard until she has passed the Bergeron coves, and if night be approaching, and the flood tide nearly done, endeavour to reach the anchorage 2 or 3 miles to the eastward of Vaches point (page 257), and remain there till daylight. Having sufficient daylight to take the vessel through between Bed islet and the shoals off the Saguenay proceed as follows :— .1 . • -Jv r •>? First, with the ebb tide, keep well to windward, running along under the north land at the distance of a mile, until Cacona opens to the west- ward of Red islet, bearing S. ^ E. Then steer so as may be necessary to bring the western extremes of the Brandy Pots and White islet in one, and open to the southward of Hare island, bearing S.S.W. J W. Run upon that leading mai'k, and it will lead clear to the southward of all the shoals off the Saguenay. But that leading mark can seldom be made out, a matter of less consequence than formerly, since buoys have been placed on the shoals off the Saguenay. Therefore, if the mark cannot be seen, steer so as to pass 3 or 4 cables to the southward of the chequered black and white buoy near the eastern end of the Bar reef, and thence so as to make good a S.S.W. | W. course. When the lighthouses on Red islet and Green island come in one the vessel will be off the south-east extreme of Lark reef, and should not be in less than 6 fathoms at low water. Continue to run on the same course, or on the same leading mark if it can be made out, or steer so as to pass fully half a mile to the south- eastward of the white buoy on the south extreme of Lark reef, and about 1^ miles to the southward of Lark patch of sand and stones which never covers. The lead should be kept going with reference to the soundings in the chart; and when the houses at Tadousac open to the westward of Lark islet, bearing N. by W., the vessel will be off the end of the reef, in from 15 to 20 fathoms water, and may either proceed to the anchorage in Basque road (page 259), guided by the soundings along the west 264 i,.^,^.»,):. RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. *f^ m^>ir. [obat. x. side of the reef, or may continue her course up the river, keeping well under the north shore with the ebb, and more in the middle of the channel with the flood tide, there being nothing in the way until near Coudres island. Secondly : Coming up, and having passed Bergeron cove with the flood tide, it is not necessary to keep the northern shore quite so close aboard. Open Cacona to the westward of Red islet, as before directed, and then Bteer so as to open the Brandy Pots to the southward of White islet, about the breadth of the latter, and bearing S.W. | S. Take care to open the Brandy Pots as directed, because the lino of those islands and White islet touching, passes nearly over a rocky patch of 7^ fathoms, which ii is as well to avoid, although we do not think that there is less water there. The cross marks for that rocky patch are. Red islet on with the south-west end of Green island ; a vessel running on the leading mark which we have given for the case of the ebb tide passes well inside, or to the northward of it. t Having opened the Brandy Pots to the southward of White islet, keep them BO as the vessel runs towards them, until Green island lighthouse is well open to the westward '^f Red islet, when she may steer directly up the middle of the channel uooween Hare island and the north shore. In the event of the wind and tide failing, anchorage will be found on the Hare island bank, the English bank, Murray bay, and to the westward of Goose cape. For directions for the North channel from Coudres to Quebec, «ee page 293. •; TI9BB.— This chapter will be closed with a few brief remarks on the tides, which, with the rate and course of the streams, os shown by the arrows on the charts, the times of high water on the full and change days, and the rise and duration of the tides given in the table at poge 301 will, we trust, be all that seamen can require on this head. The principal stream of flood ascends along the northern side of the Estuary. One part of this stream sets from below Bergeron cove towards and over the tail of the Red Islet bank, which it curves round to the pouthward, and then passes into the North channel between Red islet and the White Islet reef. At the same time an inferior stream of flood ascends along the south shore close outside the Razadcs, Basque, Apple and Green islands ; and inside of them also after the shoals are covered. When these two streams of flood meet the last of the ebb, and afterwards each other, between Green and Red islands, they cause high breaking ripplings, which can be heard at a great distance on a still night, and which appear like broken water on a shoal. Each of these two streams of flood is strongest near its own side, and there is consequently little or no flood in mid-channel, particularly in neap tides and westerly winds. «RAr. z.] TIDES IN NORTH AND SOUTH CHANNELS. 265 To the westward of Cacona the flood in the South channel sets fairly up the river on either side of the Barrett ledges, Middle shoal, and Middle bank ; but the strongest part of it passes up the deep water to the northward of these shoals, between them and the Brandy Pots and Hare island ; and Bt the rate of 2^ or 3 knots in spring tides. On arriving at the Hare Island bank, great part of this stream passes into the North channel between that bank and Hare island ; the rest over the tail of the bank into the South channel. The flood sets fairly up the South channel, and between the Pilgrims and the Hare Island bank, but becomes very weak above them, especially in neap tides, until we arrive as high as Origneaux point, whence it gradually increases in strength, being aided by a branch of the northern stream from between tl'o English and Hare Island banks, until it attains its full rate of 5 knots in the South Traverse. To return again to the principal stream of flood : nnother part of it passes between the Red Islet bank and the shoals off the Saguenay, whilst a third part ascends that river 70 miles to the rapids. When the flood first makes, it meets the ebb down the channel to the northward of Hare island, and causes a tremendous rippling, extending from the Lark reef to Bed islet. Above that islet, the stream of flood, after sweeping round to the westward past Rocky bay, pursues a tolerably fair courue up the North channel as high as Cape Eagle, ofl" which it divides ; the southern part proceeding to the southward of the English bank, on its way to the South Traverse ; whilst the northern part passes between the English bank and the north shore up to Goose cape. > '-» Off" Goose cape this northern part of the stream of the flood again divides : one, the lesser ond weaker part, passing to the southward of Coudres, throws off at the first of the tide branches to the S.S.W., which pass over the western part of the English bank, on either side of the JVIiddle ground, and between the latter and the shoals eastward of the Seal reefs, into the South channel. This seems to orise from the flood being earlier in the North than in the South channel, and hence the first of the flood comes from the N.N.E. at the Traverse, and sets for about an hour on the Shoals of St. Ann and St. Roque. The other and principal part passes between Coudres island and the north shore, where it attains the same rate of 5 knots in spring tides as in the South Traverse. ^ ' ' Little need be added respecting the ebb tide beyond what has already been said in the course of this chapter, and what the arrows in the Admiralty charts express. We may, however, remark generally, that the direction of the ebb stream is always nearly the contrary to that of the flood, excepting between Red and Green islands, and to the eastward of the former. The principal part of the ebb down the North channel, being turned to the Bouth-east by Lark reef, cornea through between White Islet reef and Red 266 RIVER 8T. LAWRENCE. [OHAT. I« iilet, letting over towArds the east end of Oreen iilondat the rAh> Cff or6 knots in spring tides. The ebb out of the Saguensy riv^: equnlly strong, and sets over towards the east end of Red Islet bant . hovivtf, curving to the eastward, it unites with the St. Lawrence ebb, from whioli it can be readily distinguished by the dark colour of its water, and both together set down the Estuary, as has been explained in page 27, and other parts of these directions. ? Although the duration both of the rise and stream of the tides will be found in the table at page 801, yet it may be useful to remark here that the flood and ebb are less unequal in duration in the North than in tho South channel ; and that in both channels the streams of flood and ebb upon an average continue three-quarters and one hour respectively after it is high and low water by the shore. , ! At the Brandy Pots, tho flood rises 5h. 60m. and the ebb falls 6h. 34m., so that the ebb by the shore is about three quarters of on hour longer than the flood. This inequality of the tide increases as wo proceed up the river ; thus at St. Roque point, opposite the South Traverse, the flood is only Sh. 35m. and the ebb 6h. 60m. The times of the high and low water by the shore do not seem to be much aflected by winds ; but the amount of the rise and fall of the tides, and the duration of the streams, are considerably affected by strong winds ; nevertheless, as an approxi- mation near enough for practical purposes, we may state that, when the stream of flood makes in mid-channel the tide has risen by tho shore, at the Brandy Pots 1^ feet and at the Traverse 2^ feet ; and also that when the stream of ebb makes, the tide has fallen about 2 feet by the shore. But as it ia of importance to know the proportional amount of the rise and fall of the tides for any part of their whole duration, when a large ship is to be taken over certain shallow parts of the river above the Traverse, we shall have occasion to notice this subject again in the following chapter. .- ' '^.vf; ■I n 1 . 4Kt »%■ 267 :n, t '■^ iivr ».,« f v; a inches. *3 268 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. zi. both room and water enough for the vessels of the largest draught, until they arrive at the group of islands between Crane island and the isle of Orleans, where the Middle channel communicates with the South channel by various narrow passages between the islands. There is plenty of water in most of these passages at all times, but the tides set strongly through them ; and, although they might be rendered available in case of necessity, and though it would be possible to take even the largest vessels up to Quebec by the Middle channel, were it requisite from any cause to do so, yet they are too intricate and difficult for general navigation. The other and better channels will always be preferred for general use ; nevertheless, the Middle channel ought to be known to the pilots in common with every other channel in the river. The Middle channel was unknown before the Admiralty survey. It was probably known to th ' French, but, if so, their knowledge had ^ :en lost ; for even in the most recent of the old charts and directions, the Seal reefs are represented as extending to Coudres island, and the islands between Crane island and Eeaux island as being joined together by ishallow water. The VOSTH CBAmrsA Stretches along the high northern shore of the river, mside Coudres island, and of the line of shoals which extend from the latter to the Neptune rock and the Burnt Cape ledge, and from thence through the North Traverse between the shoals which reach from the Burnt Cape ledge nearly to Reaux island, and those which lie off the north-east end of the isle of Orleans. From the North Traverse this channel continues between Reaux and Madame islands on the one side, and the isle of Orleans on the other, till it unites with the South channel opposite St. Vallier. The North channel, as just described, was formerly in general use, but it is now little known to those pilots who have net been required to qualify themselves for taking ships through it. It has been very much misrepresented in former books of directions, wherein the objections to it are, for the most part, either exaggerated or imaginary. If a light were placed on the west point of Prairie bay, in Coudres island, and if the North Traverse were properly buoyed and lighted, this channel would be of far easier navigation for large ships than the South channel ; for it is much v.'ider and less embarrassed by shoals in every part, excepting in part of the North Traverse, which is narrow and intricate ; but with this great advantage over the South Traverse, that there is good anchorage in every part of it, and tides of comparatively moderate strength ; neither is there any want of anchorage in other parts of the North channel, ex- cepting in the middle of it, where in general the tides will be found too strong. Between Coudres island and the main the water is so deep, and CBAF.XI.2 SOUTH, MIDDLE, AND NORTH TRAVERSES. 26^ the stream so strong, that there is no anchorage, excepting in Prairie bay, -which is an excellent roadstead (page 294). Above Coudres there is a fine straight channel from l^^to 2-^ miles wide, entirely free from danger, and extending 18 or 19 miles to the Burnt Cape ledge. The water is not (as has been represented) inconveniently deep anywhere above Coudres ; it nowhere exceeds 17 fathoms at low water in mid-channel, and is generally not above 11 or 12 fathomsj shoaling towards the sides of the channel, so as to afford good anchorage out of the strength of the tides. There is, however, much more tide and more sea in this long and open reach of 6 or 7 leagues than in the corresponding parts of the South channel ; and in the fall of the year, the north- west squalls off the mountains are heavy and frequent. Altogether, the South channel is preferable for the general purposes of navigation; yet the North is a fine channel, and, as it frequently remaina open, that is, free from ice, some time after the South channel becomes unnavigable in the fall of the year, it becomes the more requisite to require a full knowledge of it from all pilots in future. The OB&BJlxi'S CBAxnrBXi, to the nortliAvard of Orleans isle, has ■water enough for vessels of the largest draught, but it is too narrow and intricate for general use. Having thus generally noticed the three channels into which the St. Lawrciice is divided, a particular and full description will be given of that which is in general use : and afterwards notice more fully the North channel. SOUTH CHANNEL, THROUGH THE SOUTH TRAVERSE TO CRANE ISLAND. The south shore of the St. Lawrence, from St. Roque point to St. Thomas, is low, ^nd of slate, but rises gradually into wooded ridges of considerable elevation at the distance of a few miles back from the river. These ridges are of greywacke and slate rocks, and are not to be com- pared in height to the granitic mountains of the north shore opposite, which in some parts exceed 2,000 feet above the river. The houses are numerous all along the south shore, and are grouped into villages round the churches of St. Jean, Islet, St. Ignace, and St. Thomas, where sup- plies may always be obtained. A landing pier, 1,200 feet long, has re- cently been constructed at LTslet, ha- ing 8^ feet of water at its end in the lowest tides. The churches of St. Roque, St. Jean, and LTsiet stand low down near the water's edge, and are distant nearly 7 miles from each other, the latter being opposite to Goose Island reef. The river Jolie ia 2^ miles above or to the westward of the church of St. Jean ; and the 270 RIVEB ST. LAWRENCE. lotUf. XI. river Trois Saumons a mile farther in the same direction. They both afford shelter to small craft, and good landing for boats, excepting at low water, and they have 12 feet water in their entrances at high water springs. The church of St. Ignace is 13^ miles to the westward of that ot St. Jean, and stands about three-quarters of a mile back from Cape St. Ignace, a small, round, rocky peninsula, which will be easily recog- nized, and is nearly opposite Macpherson house, on the east end of Crane island. The church of St. Thomas, which is very large, and stands on the western bank of the river Sud, is 5f miles to the westward of that of St. Ignace, and nearly opposite the west end of Crane island. The river Sud falls into the St. Lawrence, by a cascade of 30 feet just within its 'entrance, and has mills and a considerable village on its banks. Tbe aovTB BAxrx extends out from the shore to considerable dis- tances all the way from St. Roque to St. Thomas. SROA&s of ST. xootva are that part of the South bank which projects 4 miles out from St. Roque point to the light vessel and buoys of the Traverse, and is extremely dangerous, being composed of a thin covering -of sand, mud, and stones over '^late rock. The depth of water in many parts of these shoals does not exceed 9 or 10 feet. WAMMOvra of the SOVTB TKAVBXSB are between the Shoals of St. Roque and the Middle ground, and are less than half a mile wide from the depth of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms. The depth of water through the Narrows is from 5 to 14 fathoms. The ebb-tide runs at the springs at the rate of 7 knots, and the flood 5 or 6 knots ; and, as the ground is hard, there is no anchorage in the stream. It is there that a light- vessel and buoys have been placed. Their positions used formerly to be uncertain to the extent of 2 or 3 cables in different years, but that has now been remtaied by the erection of beacons. The want of good leading marks, and the strong tides, renders the light-vessel and buoys indispensible for the safety of large vessels in this difficult part of the navigation of the St. Lawrence. . . > >• Ttae XilOBT ^TBBMLi is moored in about 3'^ fathoms water on the north- east point of the Shoals of St. Roque, nearly in the line from St. Roque church to the north-east end of Coudreav island ; the former bearing S.S.E., 4^ miles, and the latter being distant 4f miles. It exhibits & fixed whitCy which, in clear weather, should be seen from a distance of 9 miles. The beacon at St. Roque, open its own breadth to the westward of St. Roque church, forms a cross mark for insuring the position of this light, the beacon being to the southward of the church. A gong is struck «very five minutes on board the light-vessel in snow storms and foggy CHAP. ZI.J SOUTH TRAVERSE. 271 avoTS. — Three black buoys are placed on the northern edge of the Shoals of St. Roque, marking the southern edge of the South Traverse. They are moored in 2^, 3^,, and 3 fathoms water, and at the distances of nearly 1, 2^, and 4^ miles respectively above the light vessel, — the last buoy being on the south-west point of the Shoals of St. Roque. The opposite or northern side of the Narrows is shown by the two red buoys^ moored in 2^ and 3 fathoms water on the southern side and south-west end of the Middle ground.* It may, however, be useful to add here, that the red buoy on the south-west end of the Middle ground lies on the line of the Wood Pillar island and Goose island touching, and with the two beacons at St. Roque in one ; the south-easternmost beacon being diamond shaped. There is no mark for leading through the Narrows ; and that which leads up to them from the eastward, viz.. Cape Orig-^eaux and the high land of Kamourasca,]' can only be made out in clear weather. The western leading mark given in the old directions, that is, the Wood Pillar just touching the south point of Goose island, must never be trusted. This mark will not lead through ; and, moreover. Goose island is so distant that more or less of it becomes invisible according to the state of the weather or the atmosphere. On the weather-tide, however, the channel is pretty well marked out by the rougher or breaking sea ia the deep water, as compai'ed with the smoother surface over the shoals on either side. The edge of the South bank above the Narrows is not quite so steep or shoal, but it has many outlying patches of from 2| to 3 fathoms off it, which render it difficult to run a vessel of large draught safely along it by the lead, excepting within 2 hours on either side of the time of high water by the shore. On one of these patchy s, 2 miles above the black buoy on the sourh-west point of the Shoals ot' St. Roque, a fourth biack buoy is moored, with the high rock on Goos*. s^dland reef just shut in behind the south point of the Stone Pillar, ar;i the sugar loaf beacon in one, with St. Jean church bearing S. by E. OBAsnrBXi VATCH lies directly in ''le way of vessels, and in the deepest part of the channel. Its position is pointed out by a chequered black and white buoy, which lies with the noi th sides of Goose Island reef tod of the Stone Pillar in one bearing S.W. ^ W., the latter being distant 2f miles ; and with a diamond shaped beacon in the parish of St. Jean: open to the westward of St. Jean church bearing S.E. i S. * For the marks and beanoni for placing theb« buoys, see PosiUun of Baoys and Beacons, page 316. - - *.-^ . . ,^ ^ . ...,■ . t See View K on chart. •;, .n ,. ;, ;„ .. ^i.n i 272 BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chat, zl of ST. TPBOMAS is that part of the South bank which extends rather more than 2 miles off shore at the village of St. Thomas. It con- sists of sand, mud, and stones, and is dry at low water nearly to its northern edge, which is very steep ; and the marks for leading to the northward of it are. Belle Chasse island and St. Yallier point touching. Therefore the whole of the island should never be opened out clear to the northward of the point ; but these marks can only be made out in very favourable weather, a defect which is now remedied by the black buoy on the north extreme of the bank, in 3 fathoms, and from which Haystack island appears in one with the west extreme of Crane island ; and the red sugar-loaf beacon and the white-d' amend beacon on the south point of Crane island, are also in one. But before arriving thus far, the dangerous Beaujeu bti.nk has to be passed, for which, and the buoys on and near it, see pages 274, 275. The northern side of the South Traverse is formed of shoals fi'om the north-east end of the Middle ground to the Seal islands and the Pillars, a distance of 13 miles ; for, although there are some 3-fathom passages between the Middle ground and the shoals to the westward of it, and also between the Seal islands and the Pillars, yet they are neither used nor required for the general purposes of navigation ; and those last named are so narrow as to be almost unnavigable. Tbe ansB&B OROVars extends nearly 3 miles to the north-east of the easternmost red buoy of the Traverse ; and there is as little as 3 feet water at low spring tides on this eastern part of the shoal, which is of sand and slate rock. To the south-west of that buoy, in which direction the Middle ground, including two detached patches, extends l-j^^ miles, there is not a less depth than 2^ fathoms. On the shoals to the westward of the Middle Ground there is as little as \\ fathoms water ; and the slate rock dries in patches more than 3 miles out to the north-east of the Seal islands. The outline of these shoals is extremely irregular, and there are several detached shoals to the southward of them, with 2 to 3 fathoms, as will be seen in the chart. There are no marks for leading clear of them, and the soundings are too irregular to be a sufficient guide ; hence the no/thern side of the Traverse is rendered dangerous, and should not be made too free with, especially in a vessel of large draught. consist of sand upon slate ; they are small and very low, partly covered with grass and a few bushes. They [are occasionally visited by the " habitans " for seals, marsh hay, and M'ildfowl, in their seasons. A vessel of large draught can ( y approach near to them OttAP. XI.] SOUTH TRAVERSE. 273 by way of the Middle Traverse, where she may He within half a mile of their north-west side. / • The vxXi&AJM are two small and steep islets of grey wak^ rock, neither of them exceeding 2 cables in diameter. ,, ihe Wood Pillar which is 100 feet above high-water mark, has trees upon it, and is the highest and steepest of the two ; it lies S. by E. 2^ miles from the Seal islands, and N.E. 2 miles from Goose island. A shoal extends from the north-east point of the latter to it, and continues 2^ miles farther to the north-east. /.. The Stone Pillar lies 1^ miles to the eastward of the Wood Pillar, and is quite bare of trees. Shoal water extends fi'om it a mile to the north- east. There is a half-tide rock, called the Middle rock, between the Pillars, and a passage too intricate for any but small vessels. ablOBT. — The lighthouse erected upon the Stone Pillar islet, stands about 100 yards from its south point, and 25 feet above high water. The tower is of gray stone, of a conical form, 20 feet in diameter at the base, and 38 feet in height. It exhibits, at an elevation of 68 feet above high water ordinary springs, a white light which revolves every minute and a half. It is of the first order, and can be seen in the ordinary state of the atmosphere from distances of about 13, 18, or 20 miles, according as the observer's eye above the sea may be elevated 10, 50, or 100 feet respectively. SOVTK xocx, lying S.E. by S. a quarter of a mile from the south-east point of the Stoue Pillar, is of slate rock, about 100 yards in diameter, dry soon after half-obb, and bold all round. This rock lies much in the way of vessels, and at night, or when it is covered, becomes very dan- gerous. The passage between it and the Pillar is too narrow for use, but the marks for leading to the southward of it are, to keep the whole of Crane island open to the southward of the Goose island reef. GOOSB xs&Axrs BSBi* Is composcd of a long chain of rocks, com- mencing 1^ miles S.W. of the Stone Pillar, and extending 3§- miles in that direction, or parallel to the course of the river. The central part of this reef, neai'ly 1 J- miles long, is for.Tod of large and high rocks, always above water, and to be seen from a great distance. There is a narrow chann 1 only fit for small craft, between it and the north-east end of Goose island, to which it lies parallel, at the distance of a long half mile. It is bold to the southward, on which side vessels may safely approach it to the distance of 2 cables' lengths, OOOBB zs&ASro is A\ miles long, partly composed of rocky and hilly ground, and partly of meadow land. The eastern part, 2\ miles long, is [ST.L.]— VOL. I. # 5: I ■i ■ s 274 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap, xu the highest, and about 150 to 200 feet high. On the shoals, which dry out from the island at low water, on its south side, lies the Hospital rock, out of the way of vessels, but serving to point out one of the few places in the St. Lawrence, where vessels could be laid on shore in case of neces- sity ; for instance, to winter safe from the ice. In that part of the bay, between Goose and Crane islands, which is included between the distances of half a mile and 2 miles to the south-west of the Hospital rock, the bottom is fit for that purpose, being of mud, dry at low water. csAira xs&AiTB is joined to Goose island by meadows, and distant from its nearest point about 2| miles. It is 3^ miles long, ai)d not quite so high as Goose island. Macpherson house and other buildings will be easily recognised near its north-east end ; and there is a village with a church on the north side of the island, but the church cannot be seen irom the eastward. The island rises into a ridge of greywacke and slate immediately to the south-west of Macpherson house; and all its south-west part is thickly wooded. The meadows of Goose und Crane islands feed great numbers of cattle ; they can be seen over from the deck of a vessel ; and the mountains of the north shore thus seen, together with the islands themselves, form one of the finest views of the St. Lawrence. BIIAV7BV BAirx is a narrow shoal of sand aiul gravel over slate. It is 2 miles long, parallel to the course of the river, and has not more than 8 feet at low water over some parts of it. Its west end approaches to within less than half a mile of Crane island at Macpherson house, from which it bears S.S.E. ^ E., being directly in the line from the house to Cape St. Ignace. cBAinra& 90uth or bbavybv bahx. — This channel is that which was generally used by vessels; the depth in it is irregular, varying from 5 to 3 fathoms ; and there are two rocky patches of 2^ fathoms in the way, and difficult to avoid ; so that the latter depth is all that could be cirried through there without buoys at low spring tides, unless the vessel were conducted by an unusually skilful pilot, in which case 3 fathoms might be reckoned upon. The marks for passir;" the -athern edge of Beaujeu bank, along the eastern half of its lensrih are, the Stone ^^illar, its own breadth open to the southward of Goc Island reef; and for the western part of the bank, which turns up slightly to the northward towards Crane island, St. Vallier point in one with the south side of Crane island. But these marks, from their great distance, can seldom be seen, and hence the ne- cessity for buoying this difficult pai-t of the channel, which has now been done as follows :— /OHAF. XI.] SOUTH TRAVERSE. 275 avoTS. — The first white buoy is on tlie eastern end of tlie 2^ fatlioms patcli, next eastward of tlie Beaujeu banlc, in 3 fatlioms at low water, with the south side of Crane island bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., and the beacon on the meadows of Goose island in one with the centre of Onion island. The second white buoy is on the western end of the Beaujeu bank, in 3 fathoms, with the lighthouse on the Stone Pillar appearing open two or three sails' breadth to the southward of Goose Island reef, and the two white beacons on Crane island in one. These buoys are of the greatest assistance to vessels passing to the southward of the Beaujeu bank, whilst the channel to the northward of the bank is between them and two red buoys, which are placed as follows : — The easternmost red buoy, in 4 fathoms water, is moored on the edge of the Goose Island shoal, with Onion island seen over the meadows, bearing N.W., and the south side of Crane island S.W. ^ W. The eastern entrance of the channel to the northward of the Beaujeu bank, between this buoy and the easternmost white buoy, is half a mile wide, with 9 or 10 fathoms water in it, but the depth decreases to 4^^ fathoms in the western entrance, which is only about 2 cables wide, from the depth of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms. A second red buoy on the shoal, which extends 3 cables out from the high-water mark of Crane island, marks the northern side of this narroAV entrance, which is between it and the white buoy on the western end of the Beaujeu bank. The marks for this second red buoy are, St. Ignace church touching the eastern side of the peninsula of Cape St. Ignace, and Macpherson house bearing N. ^ E. Farther westward, the south side of Crane island is so bold that it may be approached to the distance of 2 cables ; and the channel between it and the Bank of St. Thomas is three-quarters of a mile wide, and free from danger. •, CAVTXOxr. — Ships of large draught, of the line, or heavy frigates, should not atter.ipt the South Traverse without a settled fair wind ; for, although it might be possible to back and fill through the Nar- rows in the day-time, and with fine weather, yet it would be attended with so much risk that it should never be attempted excepting in a case of urgent necessity They should also choose their time of tide, so as to have water enough to pass over the patches of shallow water mentioned in page 271, and in the preceding pages. But now that the channel has been sufficiently buoyed, these precautious are less absolutely necessary. Tn)X>S. — The rise and fall of the tide, for every hour after low and high water, will be seen in the table at page 301, and from it the depth of water at any time, over any shallow paiM. of the river, may easily be deduced. Moreover, such large ships should not run through the Traverse S 2 276 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAF. XX at night, especially if the weather be bod, and so dark that the buoys and the land cannot be seen ; for although the bearings of the light and the lead might enable a skilful and experienced pilot to take such ships safely through on the last half of the stream of flood, yet it would bo a heavy charge, and attended with some risk. It is desirable for vessels in general coming up the river, even with a fair wind to pass the Traverse on the flood-tide ; for the ebb is so strong between the buoys, that little progress will bo made against it, even with a strong breeze. BnacTiowB for 80VTK TBAVBHSB. — A vcssel coming up the river with a fair wind, and having ai'rived off" the St. Anne buoy, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, as directed at page 257, should proceed as follows : — The light-vessel will bear S.W. by W. nearly 5 miles ; but the course to be steered will vary on either side of that bearing, according to the tide. The first of the flood will set to the southward, towards the Shoals of St. Roque, and the ebb in the contrary direction ; the mariner must therefore be guided by the bearing of the light-vessel, but more es] f cially by the soundings in the chart. Keep the southern side of the channel aboard, but do not go into less than from 7 to 10 fathoms water according to the time of tide, until up to the Jight-vessel, lest the ship get into the shalloAV inlet in the Shoals of St. Roque, which runs in to the southward of the light-vessel and black buoy. In passing the light-vessel steer S.W. by W. ^ W. leaving her to the southward, and at the distance of 1 or 2 cables. Run past her about a quarter of a mile, and then steer S.W. ^ W., or as may be requisite from Avind and tide, to pass midway between the b'loys, fi'oni whence the course to the Stone Pillar is S.W. ^ S. But here, too, the course alone must not be trusted, for there is no calculating exactly the set of the tides. Generally a ve;ssel will have to steer a little to the jouthward of S.W. ^ S, with the flood-tide, to keep along the edge of the South bank ; and with the ebb a little to the westward, but the lead and the buoys are the only sure guides. As soon as the two first buoys are past, haul gradually to the southward so as to bring the light-vessel to bear between N.E. and N.E. -J- N., or till the southern side of the channel is approached to 5 fathoms at low water, or to a depth corresponding to that at other times of the tide, see page 301. When the vessel is 3 miles past the light-vessel, she will have passed between the next two buoys, and beyond the south-west patches; of the Middle ground, and will consequently have more room. Take now 6 fathoms at low water, or a depth corresponding to it at other times of the tide, m a guide along the edge of the South bank, keeping the light- vessel bearing N.E. ^ N. until past the black buoy on the south-west point of the Shoals of St. Roque, and taking care not to cross to the northward XI.] SOUTH teaverse; directions. 277 •f the line of deep water (9 to 13 fathoms), which extends south-westward from the Narrows all through the Traverse. The patches off St. Jeau ehurch will be avoided by passing 2 or 3 cables to the northward of the black buoy on them, or by not going to the southward into less water than has been directed, if the buoy cannot bo seen. If the chequered Hack and white buoy on the Channel patch can be seen, pass a cable's length to the southward of it ; if not seen, run along the edge of the South bank in the depth before directed, until St, Jean church bears 8.S.E. ; then open the south side of Goose Island reef, only just sufficiently to be seen nearly in one with the south side of the Stone Pillar, (the light- house on the latter ot the snmo time bearing nothing to the southward of S.W. by W. ^ W.), and run upon that leading mark until St. Jean church bears S.E. f S., when the vessel will be about 1 J- cables to the southward of the Channel patch, and should sheer again to the southward, and follow the edge of the South bank in the same depth as before ; remembering, that the marks for clearing the South rock are, the whole of Crane island open to the southward of Goose Island reef. When the lighthouse on the Stone Pillar bears N.N.W. the South rock will have been passed. If wishing to sail to the northward of the Channel patch — having brought St. Jean church to bear S.S.E. as before, haul to the north- westward, until the whole of Goose Island reef is distinctly open to the northward of the Stone Pillar ; the lighthouse on the latter bearing nothing to the westward of S.W. Run upon the marks just given, and they will lead about 1^ cables to the northward of the chequered buoy, on the Channel patch. As soon as St. Jean church bears S.E., steer immediately to the southward towards Port Jolie, to avoid the shoal water which extends north-eastward from the Stone Pillar. Continue to run to the southward until far enough to insure clearing the South rock, as before directed. Having passed the South rock, the channel is clear, and the edge of the South bank easily fol- lowed by the lead at night, until more than 2 miles past Goose Island reef. To PASS SOUTH of BSAV7BV BAWX, proceed as follows, re- membering that there will not be water enough for a vessel of heavy draught until after half flood. As soon as the vessel is 1^ or 2 miles past Goose Island red, steer so as to bring the Stone Pillar (distinguished by its lighthouse), its own breadth open to the southward of Goose Island reef, bearing N.E. f E. Run from those marks, steering about S.W. J W. or 80 as to keep them open as just described, and they will lead up to the white buoy on the patch next eastward of the Beaujeu bank. Pass close to the southward of that buoy, still steering about S.W. ^ W., or as may be zequired to keep the Stone Pillar rather more than its own breadth open 1278 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. zi. to the southward of Goose Island reef, until St. Vallier point opens to the southward of Crane island about a quarter of a point, bearing W.S.W. } then haul up for St. Vallier point, keeping it so open until Marphorson ' house on Crane island bears N.N.W. when the vessel will ha\ passed about 2 cables to the southward of the tohite buoy on the west end of the Beaujeu bank, and may keep away to the southward, ho as to run along the southern shore of Crane island at the distance of not less than 8 cables, or in from 7 to 10 fathoms water, according to the time of tide. To 9AMU vowm of WMMXtrma ba»Xi — as soon as the vessel is above the Hunpital rock, or west end of Goose island, bring the south sides of the Goose Island reef, and of the Stone Pillar in one, and run from and upon tlmt mark, and it will lead between the red buoy on Goose Island shoal, i\nd the white buoy on the patch next eastward of the Beau- jeu bank. The buoys at the western entrance of the channel, being distant only 2\ miles, will probably be now seen right ahead, in which case, steer so as to make a straight course towards the red buoy, until within the distance >it" a cable from it, then haul to the southward, so as to pass midway between it and the white buoy on the west end of the Beaujeu bank, until St. Vallier point opens out to the southward of Crane island, when the vessel may be hauled to the westward, along the southern shore of Crane island as before directed. If, after passing the red buoy on the Goose Island shoal, the upper red buoy should not be immediately seen, continue to run from and upon the mark above given, iaking cnre not to open out the south side of the Stone Pillnr ti> the southward of Goose Island reef, and as soon as the buoys can be seer-, bfof-r for the red buoy, and proceed as already directed. The mark foi'merly given, for passing to the southward, between the west end of the Beaujeu bank, and the shoal to the westward of it extending 3 cables from the high water mark of Crane island was, the north-east end of the high water beach of Crane island and the north-east end of Onion island in one, bearing North ; but this in any case would not have supplied the want of buoys, and was moreover often useless, from the difficulty of making out the end of the beach when covered with reeds. At Wlffbt, the Beaujeu 1 k must be passed by the lead, along the edge of the South bank, or southern side of the channel, keeping in 3 fathoms at low' water or a depth corresponding to it at other times of the tide, till Macpherson house bears N.N.W., when the vessel must be hauled up for the west end of Crane island. ^RTitii SBATliro \irnrx>8. — Coming up with beating winds, tack by the lead in 6 fathoms water on the south side of the channel below the light- vessel, but go no nearer than 10 fathoms to the Middle ground, which is very steep. In passing the Ji.'arrows the water will be observed rough in the [CUXP. ZI« OBAP. ZI.] SOUTH T11AVER8E. 279 pens to the ? W.S.W. » ifaophorBon a\ pasBod est ond of an to run [em than lie of tide, e vessel is the south e, and run y on Goose the Beau- nncl, being d, in which buoy, until thward, so vest end of mthward of , along the upper red I upon the if the Stone 3 buoys can icted. The le west end jxtending 3 'th-east end i of Onion vo supplied difficulty of the edge of fathoms at le tide, till puled up for tack by the rthe light- , which is ough in the will have more room to work in, ho ■( at low water ; but in the iirst shoal cast of the lead .o iJ f'nthoms), which extends channel, or even breaking with a strong breeze against the tide, while it is comparatively smooth upon the shoals on either side. This circumstance, the lead, and the bearing of the buoys, must guide a vessel in the very short boards which she must make through the Narrows. Keep more over towards the south than the opposite side of the channel, especially in light winds, for the St. Roque shoal is less steep than the Middle ground, and therefore affords better warning by the lead, and a better chance of com- ing to an anchor in case of necessity ; and in no other case should anchoring there be attempted. In the event of its falling suddenly calm, boats ahead will generally enable a vessel to keep the channel till the tide shall have cai'ricd her into a situation whore she may more safely anchor. ■ ■*• When above the Middle ground a veBs< and may stand to the southward into board to the nortliward she should tack after passing the line of deep water ^^ from the Narrows towards the Pillars, and whitli is generally shown by rougher water than there is elsewhere. Beware of the South rock, and in standing towards it at night from the South bank, tack at the first cast of deep water, that is 10 or 11 fathoms. Nine fathoms is near enough to the Goose Island reef by day, and 10 fathoms by night. Tack at the former depth all along Goose island, taking care not to get to the north- ward of the Beaujeu bank, along the southern edge of which a vessel may tack when the marks given in page 274 for its southern edge ore seen coming on. In the night there is no other guide for beating past the Beaujeu bank but the lead ; and a vessel must tack from the edge of the South bank in 3 fathoms at low water, or a depth corresponding to it at other times of the tide, making short boards towards the Beaujeu bank, which must bo ap- proached with great caution, since its southern side is extremely steep, having from 4 to 5 fathoms at low water close to it. In beating through between Crane island and the Bank of St. Thomas remember that the latter is extremely steep. The helm should be put down at the first indication of a less depth than 5 fathoms at low water. See alno the leading marks in page 272. A good sailing vessel with a moderate breeze will beat from the St. Anne buoy to Crane island in one spring-tido ; but in neap-tides she probably would not get far above Islet church, .ii;, AXonouAOm in BOVTB TSAVBKBB. — Vessels may anchor off the Shoals of St. Anne in 6 fathoms low water up to within a mile or two of the light vessel. The ground is better, and there is loss tide than on the tail of the Middle ground ; but the latter is the better position for weigh- ing with the first of the flood in northerly winds. Vessels do occasionally anchor for a tide, in fine weather, on the edge of the Bank of St. Koque, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) //^.*^!^ .vn below the light-vessel than to anchor anywhere at a less distance than 4 miles above the light-vessel. Vessels often anchor off the black buoy on the south-west point of St. Roque shoal in 6 or 7 fathoms in good ground, but the anchorage is not reckoned very good until we arrive above St. Jean church. All along the edge of the South bank, from opposite the Pillars to Crane island, the holding ground is a stiff clay, and so good that it is sometimes difficult to weigh an anchor. Off Crane island, half a mile or more about the Beaujeu bank in 6 or 7 fathoms at low water, there is excellent anchorage in westerly winds ; and under the west end of the island, in 5 fathoms, there Is equally good anchorage with the winds from eastward. Vessels bound down, and meeting a strong easterly wind anywhere above the light-vessel, had better run back to this anchorage. TIBB8. — The flood begins much earlier in the North channel than in the South, and the first of the stream therefore comes from, the north- ward, setting at first about S.S.W. upon the Shoals of St. Anne and St. Roque, but inclining gradually more to the westward, until at a quarter flood it sets fair to the S.W. between the black and while buoys of the South Traverse. After half-flood it sets S.W. by W., and towards the end of the tide still more to the westward ; perhaps because, the time of high-water being somewhat earlier in the North channel, the water has begun to fall before the flood has quite ceased in the South. The ebb-stream sets nearly in the contrary direction to the flood, as just stated ; the flrst of the ebb setting off from the Shoals of St. Anne and St. Roque, through the channels to the westward of the Middle ground, and over the tail of the latter to the N.N.E. Above the Pillars both tides set fairly up and down the river. In the Narrows of the South Traverse the rate of the ebb is from 6 to 7 knots, and that of the flood from o to 6 knots. The rates of the flood and ebb tides decrease gradually as we proceed to the westward until off the Pillars ; they are 3^ and 3 knots respectively, a rate which they retain as far up as Crane island. ■■■■ I ■ OBAP. n-l CRANE ISLAND TO QUEBEC. 28t SOUTH CHANNEL, ABOVE CRANE ISLAND. SOUTH 8H0BE, FROM ST. THOMAS TO LEVI POINT. St. Thomas point is low, and lies 3 miles W. ^ N. from the entrance of the River Sud, and the church and village of St. Thomas on its west bank.* •ym sooxBi lying North three-quarters of a mile from St. Thomas point, are separated from the western part of the Bank of St. Thomas by a channel nearly a quarter of a mile wide and with 4 fathoms water in it. They form a narrow ridge 4 cables long in a S.W. direction, and have 4 feet least water at their western end. The marks for these rocks, which are out of ihe way of vessels with a fair wind, are the Seminaire, on the north shore, in line with the east point of Reaux island ; and Crow island just open to the westward of Middle island. Belle Chasse island and St. Vallier point touching, leads about 2 cables to the northward of the rocks, and also along the northern edge of the Bank of St. Thomas, in 4 fathoms. TKOV de BBXTBZBB. — ^Berthier church and village are 5^ miles to the W. by S. ^ S. from St. Thomas point. The intermediate shore is rocky and rather low, with shoal water extending off it a third of a mile. The Trou de Berthier. a tide harbour for the river craft, and dry at low-water, is close to the eastward of the church. A landing-pier has recently been erected here, having a depth of 15 feet at its extreme end at the lowest tides. MWhlM CKA8BB is&AlTD, of high, steep, and bare greywack^ rocks, is 3 cables long, parallel to the shore, from which it is distant more than half a mile. The west point of the island bears W. by N. a mile from Berthier church, and not more than 2^ fathoms water can be carried through between the island and the main. North from the centre of the island, and at the distance of a long cable, lies a small Pointed rock* nearly dry at low-water, and with from 4 to 6 fathoms between it and the island. Within the island to the S.W. is a shallow bay, and the small river Belle Chasse. ■T. VA&&iaB vozxrr, 2^ miles W. f S. from Berthier church, is remarkable as being higher than any other point below it on the south shore, above the Traverse. The church and village of St. Vallier stand low down on the[.Bhore of the shoal bay, between St. Michel and St. Val- * See Plan : — Biver St. Lavrence, belov Quebec, Sheet YI., No. 316 { Male, m =: tinch. 282 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [CHAF. ZI. Her points ; and 2 miles S.W. by W. from the extremity of the latter. A stone mill will be seen on the ridge in rear of the church, and the small river Boyer enters the bay 1^ miles to the westward of St. Vallier. ■T. MICKB& vonrx is very low, and bears W. by S. 3^ miles from St. Vallier point. Reefs of slate, dry at low water, extend a considerable distance to the N.E. from both these points, but especially from the latter. of ST. VAMIBK fills the whole bay between St. Vallier and St. Michel points, and extends nearly three-quarters of a mile to the N.E. from St. Michel point. The eastern leading marks for clearing this bank are, Berthier east point just open to the southward of Belle Chasse island, and the lead also gives sufficient warning. The western leading marks are, Beaumont church just open to the northward of Durantaye point, the west point of St. Michel bay. The village and church of St. Michel stand on the shore of the bay, nearly 2 miles W. by S. from the point of the same name. At Duran- taye point, a mile to the westward of the church, the shoal water extends only one cable's length off" shore. or reefs commence from Durantaye point, and extend more and more from the shore as the vessel proceeds to the westward, until opposite St. Lawrence point, on Orleans isle, their northern edge, in 3 fathoms, is nearly three-quarters of a mile off shore. Their extent out from the shore diminishes farther to the west- ward, and they may be considered to cease about a mile to the west- ward of Roys mills, the shoal water there reaching only 260 yards from the shore. These shoals are rocky, and dry in part at low water ; and their northern edge is steep, with deep water close to it. The warning by the lead is insufficient in a vessel going fast, and therefore these shoals should be approached with great caution. The mark for their northern edge, in 3 fathoms, as far westward as Beaumont mill, is Durantaye and St. Michel points in one, bearing E. by N. And to the westward of Beaumont mills the mark is, St. Joseph church, Levi point, in one with Martiniere point ; these last marks clear the western part of the shoals, as will be seen ^le chart. A black buoy is moored near the north-east extremity ^ -hese shoals in 4 fathoms water, with St. Lawrence church bearing North, and the church on Levi point ju3t open to the northward of Martiniere point. • Beaumont church and Beaumont mill are situated 5 miles W.S.W. of St. Michel. The church stands on the high and steep banks of the river, which extend several miles on either side of it, and the mills low down at the foot of the bank. Roys mill, where there is a waterfall, also stands CHAP. XI.] CRANE ISLAND TO QUEBEC. 283 low down, near the water's edge, and a mile to the westward of BeaU'^ mont mill. c•^■ t-i KBVX roiHT. — St. Joseph church, on Levi point, bears W. by N., and is distant 6} r.iiles from Beaumont church, and the shoal water nowhere extends above a quarter of a mile from the shore between Levi point and Roys mill. &avi wmmr extends 360 yards off shore to the northward, and should not be approached nearer than 10 fathoms water from between the north and west, or 7 fathoms from between the north and east. On the north-west extreme of this reef, St. Joseph church is in one with the eastern side of a small rocky mound near the r^ater's edge, bearing about S.E. by S., and Pavilion and St. Pierre points, on the north-west side of Orleans isle, are in one. .. . . . , : . SOUTH CHANNEL, ABOVE CRANE ISLAND. ^ ; ISLANDS AND SHOALS FORMING ITS NORTHERN SIDE. The islands in order westward of Crane island are. Haystack, Mill, Race, Middle, Margaret, Cliff, and Grosse islands. There are several others farther to the northward, but they are in the Middle Traverse. All these islands are of greywacke rock, more or less steep, partially wooded, and the highest not exceeding 200 feet above the sea.* Between these islands there are narrow and intricate passes, leading into the Middle Traverse, and with water enough for vessels of the largest draught ; but as they are of "It*le or no use for the common purposes of navigation, we shall not swell these remarks by attempting a particular written de- scription, which must of necessity fail of affording the same degree of useful information as that given in the Admiralty charts. -.ii'i'U To the westward of Grosse isle are, Reaux and Madame islands, of slate rock, low, wooded, and connected by reefs of slate nearly diy at low water. The south-west point of Madame island is nearly 1 1 miles- W. by S. from Crane island, and opposite Belle Chasse island, from which it is distant 2^ miles. Extending from almost all these islands there are reefs of slate rock, thinly covered with sand and mud, and bounding the South channel on its northern side for nearly 14 miles to the westward of Crane island. , , . xs&Aini SVXT is the first of these reefs extending If miles W. by S. from Crane island, and with 9 feet least water. There are no leading marks for the southern side of this spit, and therefore a vessel • SeeCharta:— River St. Lawrence, SheetVL, No. 316 ; scale, m = 1 inch : and en- larged plan of the North and Middle Traverses, with views, No. 318 ; scale, m=>2 inches. 284 BIVER ST. £AWBENCE. £OHAP. XI. standing towards it should take care not to bring the south side of Crane island to bear so far to the eastward as E. by N., and to tack at the first cast of the lead showing less than 5 fathoms at low water. A red buoy is moored in 3 fathoms on the west end of this spit, with Middle and Crow islands in one ; and two sugar loaf beacons on the south point of Crane island in one. The channel between Crane Island spit and Margaret island into the Middle Traverse is half a mile wide, and has more than 12 fathoms water in it. The ebb tide sets strongly to the north-east, through this channel, and between the islands into the Middle Traverse ; thus causing a powerful indraught, which should be guarded against in beating down the river, especially in light winds, and with a heavy or slow working vessel. MAMOAMBTM TAX&, extending a mile to the S.W. from Margaret and Cliff islands which are nearly joined at low water, is a dangerous shoal, the slate being awash in some parts of it in low tides. From its southern edge in 4 fathoms the south side of Haystack island and Crane island church are in one, bearing E.N.E. - A red buoy is moored in 2^ fathoms on its western end, with the south side of Margaret island bearing N.E.byE. • ' OKOBsa VATOB is a narrow rocky shoal, 6 cables long in a south- west direction, and with 7 feet least water : it lies to the west of Mar- garets Tail, and the channel between them is a quarter of a mile wide and carries a depth of 5 fathoms. A white buoy in 2^ fathoms marks the east end of the patch ; from it the north side of Margaret island bears N.E. by E. i E. There is also a channel with 8^ fathoms in it to the westward of Grosse patch, between it and Grosse Island Tail, and which, if a buoy were placed on the west end of the patch, might occasionally be con- veniently used in westerly winds. Both these channels lead to the anchorage off the Quarantine establishment on the southern side of Grosse island. QUASAVTzara avobosaos. — Vessels generally lie between the Grosse patch and island, to be near the establishment ; but the anchorage farther eastward in the Quarantine passage to the northward of Margaret island is by far preferable. All merchant vessels, as the law now stands, are obliged to anchor off Grosse island, from whence, after examination, they are allowed to proceed to Quebec, if not detained at the Quarantine anchorage. These vessels in the first instance generally anchor outside Grosse patch, and to the westward of Margarets Tail, choosing their berth in 5 fathoms, where there is one of the best roadsteads for riding out an easterly gale in the river. ,. CHAP. ZI.] CRANE ISLAND TO QUEBEC. 285 For the guidance of the numerous vessels which stop there, a red buoy has been placed on the south-west end of Margarets Tail, as mentioned above, and a white buoy on the north-east end of Grosse patch ; but in the absence of the buoys, the east points of Grosse island and the Brothers in one, bearing N. by E., will lead through the channel between them ; whence a vessel may either haul to the eastward between Grosse and Cliff islands, or to the westward between Grosse patch and Grosse island, as may be preferred. In the latter case care must bo taken to avoid a small rock with 7 feet least water, on the north side of which a chequered buoy has been placed. This rock lies about 560 yards N.W. by W. from the white buoy at the north-cast end of Grosse patch ; and about 360 yards off the shore of Grosse island at high water. The inner an- chorage at Grosse island is not otherwise useful than as a place for vessels to ride quarantine : but the anchorage outside the Grosse patch is a convenient place for which vessels, on the approach of a strong easterly wind, may bear up, when there is not tide enough for them to reach the anchorage under Crane island, 4 miles farther to the eastward. oaOBBB zs&Axn> TAZ& consists of sand, and extends nearly 1^ miles S-W. from Grosse island. The passage between this shoal and the eastern part of the Banks of Madame is less than 2 cables wide, and has 3^ fathoms water in it ; it leads (after passing between Beaux and Grosse islands) into the Middle Traverse. The leading mark for the entrance of this passage is two-thirds of Patience island open to the northward of Grosse island ; and the cross mark for it, and also for clearing the south-west end of Grosse Island Tail is, St. Fran9ai8 church (on the isle of Orleans), in on© with the south-west point of Beaux island.* BAiyy^ of MABAiixSf in their eastern part, extend 1§ miles to the southward of Beaux island ; and from their south-cast extreme, in 2^ fathoms, the south side of Two Heads island is just open to the southward of Grosse island.f The mark for clearing the southern side of these banks, as well as Grosse Island Tail and Grosse patch is, Bace island kept just open to the southward of Margaret island. These banks extend three-quarters of a mile to the southAvard, and also 2^ miles to the south-west of Madame island. Tliis western end of the banks has a large space of slate rock, dry at low water^ near its south-west extreme, and is commonly called Madame reef. From its south-west extreme the north side of Beaux island is just open to the northward of Madame island, bearing N.E. | E., and St. Vallier church S. i E. ; Berthier church, and the west end of Belle Chasse ■*■ See views F. and E. on the enlarged plan of the North and Middle Traverses. j See view C. on the same plan. 286 BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. Z(i island in one, lead to the south-west of it. The red buoy, which has been lately placed on the west end of this reef, lies in 5^ fathoms, with St. Vallier church bearing S. | E., and a house on the west end of Reaux island, just open to the northward of Madame island.* U&a of omutAJTB is of greywack5 and slate rocks, dipping generally at a high angle to the south-east. It is 18 miles long, with on extreme breadth of 4| miles. This beautiful and fertile island forms a county, is divided into 5 parishes, has a good road all round it, and rises gradually from generally steep banks, to the central elevation of 350 or 400 feet above the water. The southern shore of the island forms the northern side of the South channel, from opposite Madame reef to within 3 miles of Quebec, a distance of nearly 14 miles. The church of St. John stands low and close to the water, on Orleans point, 2 miles west from the Madame reef, and 1| miles from St. Michel point, on the opposite south shore. At the distance of 2 and 3 miles respectively, above St. John, i^■e the small rivers Lafleur and Macheux, off which there is good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms ; and in their mouths small schooners and boats find shelter, but lie aground at low water. . -.-■> '. St. Lawrence church also stands low, and close to the water, near St. Lawrence point, and 6 miles W.S.W. of St. John. Around both these churches there are villages ; and along the shore between them, as well as on the bank above, the houses are numerous. The slate rocks dry out to a considerable distance all along this part of the island, but the shallow water in no part extends beyond a quarter of a mile from the shore. Patrick Hole is a small shallow bay 1^ miles to the westward of St. Lawrence church. A small brook enters the head of the bay ; and off it, in from 6 to 9 fathoms, there is good anchorage, well sheltered from easterly winds. Here vessels bound down the river frequently anchor for a short time previous to their final departure for sea. On the high ground, about half a mile to the westward of Patrick Hole, stands the Telegraph No. 2. During the last war the telegraph stations formed a complete chain of communication as low as Green island, but at the time of this survey they had been discontinued and taken down, with the exception of No. 2. They have since been re-established as far down as Grosse island for the purpose of communicating with the Quarantine establishment. AWCBOSAOB. — The west end of Orleans isle is about 4^ miles W. by N. from Patrick Hole ; there is a wharf and a group of houses upon it, and • See Chart of River St Lawrence, below Quebec, sheet 7, No. 317 ; scale, m = 1 inch. OUAP. XI.] QUEBEC. 287 m it is quite bold. In tlie bay, a mile to the eastward of it, lie the Marand rocks, always covered ; but they are out of the fairway, and within the d-fathom line, which there extends a quarter of a mile from the shore at high water. Under the west end of Orleans, in from 8 to 15 fathoms, there is a good place for a vessel arriving with an easterly wind to anchor, which she ought to do, and wait for daylight rather than risk running among the crowd of shipping off Quebec in a dark night and rapid tide-way. SAsnr ana BAUOvm of qjammmo. — The port of Quebec ex- tends from Barnaby island to the first Rapid above Montreal ; and a book containing the bye-laws and harbour regulations of the Trinity Board is delivered to each vessel on her arrival by the harbour-master. The pilots are obliged to give all due information respecting quarantine to the commanders of vessels when they first come on board. The Basin and Harbour of Quebec are shown on so ample a scale in the Admiralty plan, that a lengthened written description becomes unnecessary.* QUBMO BASXW is 3 miles long from the west end of Orleans to the India wharf at Quebec, and about 1| miles wide from Levi point across to the shore of Beauport. Off the Beauport shore a bank of slate, thinly covered with mud, and great part of which is dry at low water, extends more than a mile f. om the shore. The Observation bastion, in one with the Mortella tower in the suburb of St. John, marks the southern edge of this bank, from abreast the west end of Orleans to within half a mile of the India wharf ; but a stranger would not easily make out the bastion, which ought to be distinguished by a white mark. The breadth of the channel between this bank and the shoal off Levi point is 6 cables, and the depth of water nearly 30 fathoms. The water is so deep in the basin that there is no good anchorage, excepting under Orleans, and off the mouth of the river St. Charles. It is difficult to imagine anything more strikingly bea itiful than the view which suddenly bursts upon a stranger ascending the St. Lawrence and entering Quebec Basin, as the vessel opens out the falls of Mont- morency on the one hand, and the city of Quebec on the other. QUZBBC UAMBOVWL may be considered as extending from off the river St. Charles up to the Chaudi^re river, a distance of 5 or 6 miles, which all through the navigable season is thickly occupied by vessels employed in the timber trade, for the most part lying alongside the numerous wharves and blocks for embarking lumber, and consequently out of the stream. But sometimes the spring or fall fleet arrives to the amount of several ' * See Flan of the Harbour and Basin of Quebec, No. 319 ; scale, m a 3 inches. 288 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OUAP. XI. hundred sail together ; and then, before they have hod time to take their plnceB for loading, the river is so crowded with shipping, that it U difficult to find a cleor berth. A gp.ie of wind, occurring under such circum> Btonces, is sure to do damr.gc, since the water is deep, the ground (sand and gravel) not good, the tide strong, and the vessels often carelessly anchored. A great annoyance to vessels at anchor off Quebec, are the largo and heavy rafts of timber so frequently dropping down with the strong ebb- tide. These often get athwart hawse of vessels, and are almost certain to do them injury, either by forcing them from their anchorage or otherwise. In 1856, 990 vessels, amounting to 462,083 tons, entered inwards, and 1,068 vessels, of 495,867 tons, cleared outwards; ond the value of imports was 871,598/., and of exports 2,048,299. At Montreal, at the same date, 217 vessels, of 65,491 tons, entered inwards, and 187 vessels, of 56,648 tons, cleared outwards ; and the value of imports was 4,066,352/., of exports 956,392/. The average number of vessels arriving annually at Quebec during the last five or six years has been 1,445 sail, of which 230 were Montreal ships. The average number of vessels cleared outwards during the samo time was 1,497 sail, of which 235 were Montreal ships. 90CXS. — For the repairs of vessels, there are at present (1860) in the harbour of Quebec four floating docks, and five gridirons. The docks are capable of receiving vessels of from 1,000 to 1,200 tons, and one of them will admit a vessel of 22d feet keel, whatever may be her tonnage. One of the gridirons will receive ships of 1,800 tons. There is olso a patent slip at Levi point, opposite the city. JUrOKOSAOa. — The breadth of the St. Lawrence at Quebec is very little more than half a mile, but it expands, immediately above the city, to 1^ miles. The depth is 28 fathoms at low water obreast the city, and 20 fathoms in the wide part above ; the deepest water being over towards the Levi point shore. The best anchorage is on the Quebec side, in from 11 to 17 fathoms ; there being nothing in the way excepting an old wreck, with 9 fathoms water over it, but by hooking which many anchors have been lost. The position of this wreck is shown by a rippling during the ebb tide, and also in the plan of the harbour. Above the city, from off Diamond harbour, all along the Lamouche bank nearly to Pizeau point, the anchorage is much better than off it, the depth of water being much less and the ground good. The mark for clearing the outer or southern side of the Lamouche bank along its whole extent is, . the north-west sides of Levi and Orleans points in one. A narrow channel with from 3 to 4 fathoms at low water com- our. zi.] QUEBEC. 289 com> menoes just to the westward of Diamond harbour, and runs up within the Lamouche bank to some diHtance above Wolf cove. la this is tlio most secure anchorage at Quebec, and the only place, if any, where a vessel could safely winter afloat. We are, however, not aware that the experiment has ever been made of wintering a vessel of large draught of water afloat anywhere about Quebec, although it has beea successfully tried in the above anchorage, in the case of steamers drawing so little water that they could bo hauled, within the blocks or isolated wharves. The small craft belonging to Quebec winter in the Cul de Sac, and ia the mouth of the river St. Charles, being hauled aground for the purpose. In the former of those places two or three vessels of the size of a sloop of war might be secured from the ice, which closes the navigation of the St. Lawrence from about the 25th November to the 1st of May. Some- times, although rarely, the navigation closes by the middle of November, and remains closed to tae 8th or 10th of May ; at others it would bo possible to navigate it till near Christmas, and ships have arrived in the middle of April ; but thcne are extraordinary seasons, and the period first named is that during which the navigation usually remains closed. The river seldom or never freezes across below Quebec, and only occa- sionally opposite the city ; but it is full of heavy ice, moving up anddo>vn with the tides with irresistible force. There is generally, but not always, a bridge of packed ice formed «> or 6 miles above Quebec ; and higher up, as far as Lake Ontario, the St. Lawrence is everywhere frozen across, excepting in places where the current is very strong. DZXBOTZoirs flrom OBA»a ZB&AsrB to QVBsao. — There is so little difficulty in the navigation from Crane island to Quebec that scarcely any farther direction will be requisite beyond that which may be gathered from the foregoing description and remarks, read with reference to the Admiralty charts, which they are intended to accompany and explain. The course and distance from the west end of Crane island to St. Lawrence point ia, W. by S. :i S. 21 miles; from oflf St. Lawrence point to Levi point, W, ^ N. 7^ miles ; and from the latter to Quebec, S.W. about 2 miles. With a fair wind vessels run up at night without hesitation, unless it be too dark to see the land, and even beat up in fine weather. With a fair wind in the day-time, and with the ossistance of the charts and these directions, ony seaman of common intelligence might take a large ship up through this part of the river, especially now that buoys have been placed on all the principal dangers. From, mid -channel between the west end of Crane island and the Bank of St. Thomas, to midway between St. Michel point and St. John church [ST.L.] — ^VOL. I. X 990 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OIAF. XL in the isle of Orleans, the course is W. by S. ^ S., and the distance 15 miles. In this interval the channel is clear, direct, and from 1^ to 2 miles wide ; 10 that, even at night, with the land in sight, and the lead going, there cannot be any difficulty. As soon as it Ih ascertained beyond doubt that the vessel is above the red buoy on the west end of Madame reef, haul gradually over towards the Orleans side, sufficiently to avoid the Bank of St. Vallier, and the reef off St. Michel point, and then steer for St. Lawrence point and keep it aboard to avoid the Beaumont reefs. Under the circumstances which wo are supposing, of a night not too dark to distinguish objects, St. Lawrence church will bo seen, off which, and all round the point to the eastward, the shoal water extends to the distance of nearly 2 cables from the high water mark, the edge of the shoal being very bold. Give the point a berth of a third of a mile, or do not go nearer than the depth of 10 fathoms. If the black buoy on the Beaumont reefs can be seen, all difficulty will be removed, since the channel to the northward of it is clear, and more than half a mile wide. The shore of Orleans should be kept aboard ofter passing St. Law- rence point. If it be blowing fresh from the eastward, it will be advisable to bring up off Patrick Hole till daylight, or under the west end of Orleans, rather than risk running among the crowd of shipping in the night. In running up in the night, a good look out should always be kept for vessels, of which there are often many bound down and lying at anchor in various parts of the river, but especially under Crane island and off Patrick Hole. When St. Joseph church on Levi point bears about S.E. by S., it will be in line with the eastern side of the Mound or small hillock at the water's edge; the vessel will be then off the north-west ex- treme of the Levi reef. To the westward of the reef the Levi point shore becomes quite bold. Gro no nearer to that reef or to the Beauport shoals than the depth of 10 fathoms, and that with caution, for they are very steep. With beating winds, the leading marks which have been given for the shoals on either side, and which will also be seen in the plans, together with the buoys and soundings, will show when to tack. In passing be- tween St. Lawrence point and the Beaumont reefs, which is the narrowest part of the channel, and only 6 cables wide, some caution will be necessary; attend to the leading marks and the black buoy on the northern edge of the reefs, and go no nearer to them than the depth of 10 fathoms. ° AVOSOBAOa. — Besides the best places for riding with easterly winds, there is anchorage almost everywhere between Crane island and Quebec. The best ground for holding is generally on the northern side of the channel; and one of the best places in strong westerly winds is under St. John point, Orleans isle. our. zl] QUEBEC. 291 ■. — At Quebec it in high wnter, full and change, at 6h. 88in., and ordinary npringn when uniiflTccled by windii, riuo 17 or 18 feet ) and neaps 13 feet. The higlieHt tide ever obflcrved, during a strong north-cant gale, roNc 21 foot above the ordinary low water mark in iipring tidcn. The greatcHt diffcrenco of level obncrved, iVom the lowcHt fall to the highest rise, wan 24 feet. The lowest neap tide observed rose only 10 feet from the preceding low water mark ; that is, about 12 feet above the low water mark in ordinary spring tides. In the spring, at the melting of the accumulated snow of winter, when the river is generally full of water ond easterly winds prevail, the tides do not full so low by 2 or 3 feet as at other times ; or rather there are 2 or 8 feet more of water in the river when the tide is out. On the contrary in the dry season, as in August, when the supply of water from the rivers and lakes is much diminished, and westerly winds prevail, the river is much lower than at other times. The low water mark is then at a lower level by about 2 feet, and on rare occasions even 3 feet, below the low water mark in ordinary spring tides. It is generally thought at Quebec that the morning spring tides rise higher than the evening tides, by about 8 feet, in the month of May ; an<1 that in the month of October the contrary takes place ; and the observa* tions that were made during the Admiralty survey would seem to establish the truth of the popular belief, for it was found correct in the spring tides which follow the full as well as the change of the moon, and whether the moon had north or south declination. But it would require better, and longer continued observations than were obtained, to speak positively respecting this " diurnal inequality" of the tides in the St. Lawrence | therefore until additional observations shall enable us to speak with certainty, the above is left as a general remark of considerable practical importance when a vessel has to be hove off a shoal, to be launched, or to.. pass over any shallow part of the river. For this much is certain, that in eveiy part of the river and gulf visited during the survey, there was a con- siderable diiference in the rise and fall of the spring tides of the same day, unless it may be when the moon is on the equator, when it is believed to disappear, as it ought to do if the varying declination of the moon bis its cause. ... -it The tides are regular and not strong below the Beaumont reefs, . seldom exceeding the rate of 2^ knots ; but in the narrow channel and deep water (nearly 20 fathoms) between these shoals and Orleans, the rate of the ebb sometimes amounts to 4 knots ; above the shoals the rate . of the tide is from 2J to 3 knots, increasing again as we enter the basin of _ Quebec. Ships, therefore, running up with the flood, and before a strong easterly wind, should be careful to shorten sail in time, and to give the T 2 . ; 2 292 BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. reef off Levi point a good berth, as they haul gradually round it through the Basin, and to the south-west towards Quebec. Between Quebec and Levi point, in strong spring tides, assisted bjr a strong wind, the flood will run at the rate of nearly 4^ knots per hour ; and the ebb, in the spring, just after the melting of the winter snow, 5 knots ; but, under conunon circumstances, 3^ and 4 knots respectively are the usual rates of the tides. A good range of cable should always be readj, for it is not easy at times to bring a vessel up off Quebec, especially in the deep water and loose ground in the centre of the channel. NORTH CHANNEL, NORTH TRAVERSE, AND ORLEANS CHANNEL. It does not appear to be requisite or useful to enter into any farther account of the Middle channel beyond the general and comparative view of it given in page 267, wheie it is stated that it is too intricate and difficult for general navigation, but that nevertheless it would be possible to take even a vessel of the largest draught through it, choosing of course the proper time of tide, and placing buoys where requisite. It is, however, not easy to imagine the circumstances which could rondoi it necessary to use this channel ; but should such a contingency ever occur, the Admiralty plans would be of more use than many pages of written directions.* Tbe VOKTB OBAXimb does, however, require some farther notice, for although it cannot be generally used without buoys, and a light at night, of which it does not seem necessary to incur the expense while the South channel answers as well or better for the general purposes of navigation, yet there may easily occur cases, as, for instance, when the South channel is obstructed by ice, in which it may be of importance to have more precise information respecting so fine a channel I ban will bo found in the general and comparative description of it in page :^68. The entrance to the North channel, between tie reef which extends a mile to the E.N.E. from the north-east end of Coudres island, and the shoals which stretch across Eboulemens bay, is 1^ miles wide, and has nearly 30 fathoms water in it. The narrowest part of the channel bet'..een Coudres and the main is 8^ cables wide, between Prairie shoal off the west point of Prairie bay and the opposite side near Cape Corbeau. The leading mark for this part of the pasimge, as well as for clearing the shoal on the west side of Cape St. Joseph, on the mainland side, is Cape Martin and Goose cape in one. There is a large settlement at Eboulemens, both • See Plan :— Biver St. Lawrence, below Quebec, Sheet V., No. 315 ; scale, m sa 1 inch : alto, enlarged plan of North and Middle Traverses, No. 318; scale, m s 3 inches. OEAP. ZI.] NORTH CHANNEL. 293 on the high grounds around the church of Notre Dame and also on tho shores of the bay. Small craft lie aground on the mud in this bay within the large boulders on the edge of the shoals. . " , ./ ■t. VAVU BAT, between Cape Corbeau and Cape Labaie, is nearly abreast the west end of Coudres, and is shoal and dry at low water, excepting a very narrow shallow channel into the rive# du Goufre, tho entrance of which forms a secure tide-harbour for small schooners. There is a church, bridge, and village a mile up the river. Off Cape Corbeau, at half ebb, the spring tides run at the rate of 7 knots, causing a great and whirling ripple dangerous to boats in bad weather. VBTZTB BivXBBB. — The church and settlement of Petite Riviere is situated 7 miles to the south-west of St. Pauls bay, on a narrow strip of low alluvial land at the foot of the granitic hills. The low land is fast diminishing by the action of the tides, obliging the people to cultivate tho higher ground in their rear.* &ABAXB BABTX. — Shoals of mud and large boulders extend three- quarters of a mile off Cape Labaie, and continue of equal extent off Petite Riviere. Their edge will be cleared by keeping the extreme western Capes, Rouge and Gribanne, open to the southward of Cape Maillard. The anchorage is good along the edge of the shoals off Petite Riviere, where, in 5 fathoms, clay bottom, vessels will be out of the strength of the tides, and well sheltered from westerly winds by Cape Maillard, which is 3 miles to the south-west of the church of Petite Riviere. LTTis is a landing place 1^ miles to the south-west of Cape Maillard ; and at the Sault au Cochon, 2 miles farther to the south-west, the shoals, which line the shore all the way from St. Pauls bay c^ase. The large boulders on these shoals prevent landing or approach to the shore in boats until after half flood. There is only one landing-place between Abattis and Cape Tourmente, a distance of nearly 1 1 miles. This landing is at Gribanne, where a couple of boats may be hauled up. To the westward of the Sault au Cochon the mountainous and uninhabited coast is quite bold, the high and precipitous capes of various granitic rocks being washed by the river as far as Cape Tourmente, where the Seminaire bank com- mences, and the mountains trend to the north-west away from the shore. COVBBBS XB&AiTB, the largest island below Quebec, excepting Orleant, is 6 miles long, 2| miles wide, and nowhere above 250 feet above the sea. It is composed of greywackd and slate rocks, is tolerably fertile, forms a parish by itself, and has a church standing low down near its south-west * See Plan:— River St. Lawrence, below Quebec, Sheet VL, No. 316 j fcale, m =s 1 inch. S94 BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAF. Xb extreme. It has as many inhabitants as it can support, having been iettled at a very early period. The southern side of the island is lined with rocky shoals, which extend fully a mile out from the shore, as they do also off its north east point ; but the north side of the island is bold for about 2 miles to the eastward of Prairie bay. WMAJMMM BAT is on the north side of Coudres island, and near its centre ; Cape Aigle, the east point of the bay, being 3 miles to the westward of the east end of the island. The bay is 1^ miles wide from Cape Aigle to Prairie point, is not deep, only slightly curved, and shows a sandy beach at high water. OffPrairie point its west extreme, Prai/ie shoal, the greater part of which is of mud and grass resting on slate, and only covered at high water, extends two thirds of a mile to the north-west from high- water mark, sheltering the bay from south-west winds. The line of Notre Dame church in one with the north-east end of the low clay cliff of St. Joseph point, passes a cable's length within the 3 fathoms north extreme of this shoal ; but if the church be kept on with the north-west end of 'the same cliff, it will lead clear of the shoal in deep water. From the ^north point of the shoal — near which a black buoy is placed — St. Pierre church is in line with the east side of St. Pauls bay ; the buoy 'lies in 3 fathoms T^ith the church its own breadth open to the westward ■of the east point of the bay. Goose cape shelters Prairie bay from easterly gales, and prevents any ■tea of consequence from rolling in, so that this anchorage is quite safe in all winds ; the ground, of clay, being good for holding, and the tides .easy if the vessel be not anchored too far out. There is room for many vessels, the space to anchor in being almost a mile long, and about a third of a mile wide, reckoning from 3 fathoms mark to 10- fathoms, beyond which the water deepens rapidly, and the tides are of great strength. The best berth is in 6 fathoms, near the centre of the bay, where the tides are not nearly so strong as at Quebec, and where the Gulnare rode out a gale from the eastward (so heavy as to do great damage to the shipping off that city) with ease and safety. Ships meeting with on easterly wind below the Traverse will find this a good anchorage to run for, and should proceed as follows : — , BnUKJTZOirs. — Being below the Middle Ground, stand over towards ^ Eboulemens, going no nearer to the reef off the north-east end of Coudres island than the depth of 10 fathoms. Having passed the reef and opened out the channel^ bear up along the shore of Coudres, passing close to Cape Aigle into the anchorage. Approaching this anchorage from the westward, bring the leading marks on for clearing the reef off Prairie point, viz., Notre Dame church on with or open to the northward of the north-west extreme of the clay cliff off St. Joseph point. Bun. upon CHAP. XI.] NORTH CHANNEL. 295 these marks until St. Pierre church is shut in behind the east side of St. Pauls bay, when the vessel may haul to the southward into the anchorage. The anchorage under Coudres in easterly winds is very good, the best riding being in 7 fathoms, with the south point of Coudres bearing between E. and E. by N. TiBBSa — In Prairie bay the flood-tide by the shore is longer than the ebb, the water flowing for 6h. 20m., and ebbing only 6h. Om., which is contrary to the observations taken in every other part of the river. The stream of flood at the anchorage in 6 fathoms, is stronger than that of the ebb, and about 4 knots in spring tides. The stream of the ebb is turned off in great measure by the shoal of Prairie point. Its rate for the first two hours of the tide is about 2 knots. It then slacks for about five or six minutes so completely, that a vessel will swing to the wind. After this the stream becomes stronger and regular during the remainder of the tide, its rate being about 3^ knots in spring tides. Vessels should moor at Prairie, or at least have a kedge out to insure keeping a cleai* anchor. covBSas BAint. — The southern side of the north channel from Cou- dres island to Burnt Cape ledge is formed by Coudres bank, and by an un- broken line of shoals, the northern edge of which is of sand, and so nearly straight that it may easily be followed by the lead. The soundings approaching it are such as to give good warning, and vessels may anchor in fine weather all along that side in 6 or 7 fathoms, clay bottom, and out of the strength of the tides. xnwTmra soox lies nearly 15 miles to the south-west of Coudres island, and about 6 cables' lengths within, or to the southward of the edge of the shoals. It is always above water and easily recognised. BinurT CAPB KBBOB is an extensive chain of greywack^ and slate rocks, the south-western part of which is always above water. The south-west end of the ledge is S.W. 4^ miles to the south-west from the Neptune rock, and nearly abreast Cape Brule on the north shore, from which it is distant I^ miles. BBVX-.S BAirxs are sands which dry in part soon after half-ebb, and lie to the westward of Burnt Cape ledge, to which they are joined by shoal water. The channel between these banks and the north shore is 6 cables wide, and has from 7 to 10 fathoms water in it. This is the only channel, but between the north-eastern part of the Brule banks and Burnt Cape ledge there is a Cul de Sac in the banks, which must be avoided by keeping the north shore aboard, after arriving off the eastern part of the ledge. On the north-east point of the Bruld banks, in 3 fathoms, the west end of the Burnt Cape ledge is in one with the east 296 BIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OIUP. JX side of Heron island, bearing S.E. This was tlie case at tlio time of the Admiralty survey in 1828, but the shoal has since extended to the bltick buoy which is now moored in 3 fathoms, with the west end of Two-heads island, and the west end of Burnt Cape ledge in one, bearing S. I E., and Cape Tourmente W.S.W. aASTSBW MAMMO'wm. — The Eastern Narrows of the North Traverse, between the south-west extreme of the Brul^ banks and the north-east extreme of the Traverse spit, lie S.W. by W. •J W. 3-J miles from the west end of the Burnt Cape ledge, and South 1^ miles from Cape Tourmente. Great part of the Traverse spit, as well as the Brule banks, dry soon after half-ebb, and thereby greatly lessen the difficulty of the passage. The Horse-shoe, and another sand lie to the north-west of the Traverse spit, the whole resting on an extensive reef of slate, running out from the north- east end of Orleans isle. Four fathoms can be carried through the Eastern Narrows, but the passage is only a quarter of a mile wide from the depth of 3 fathoms to S fathoms : and as the leading marks can only be made out in fine weather, and by experienced eyes, it required buoying to render it safe for large vessels. The cross mark for the eastern entrance of this passage, and for the north-east extreme of the Traverse spit is, the south-west point of Two Heads island on with a distant blue hill, bearing S.E. by E.^ E. ;* the north-east end of Margaret island being at the same time just open to the westward of Two Heads island. On the last named mark a red buoy is moored in 3 fathoms ; and on the north-east end of the Traverse spit and opposite to it, on the north-wjest side of Brul^ bank, a black buoy is: moored in the same depth of water, and with the east end of Margaret island and west end of Two Heads island touching, bearing S.E. by E. ^ E. The mark for leading between these buoys, and through the Eastern Narrows into the Traverse is, the south-west point of Reaux. island and St. Vallifer point m one, bearing S.S.W. | W.f "vnavKKK ttAMROvra. — From the Eastern Narrows the channel runff S.W. by W. close along the southern edge of the Traverse spit, leaving" all other shoals to the southward. At the distance of 2^ miles are the Western Narrows, which is also a quarter of a mile wide, carries 4^ fathoms water, and lies between the Traverse spit and the West sand, which is 1^ miles long, and carries 7 feet least water. On the east end of the West sand, where a chequered black and wkite buoy is moored in 3 fathoms, Berthier church is just shut in behind the south-west point of Reaux island, bearing S. ^ W. ; and Patience island and Two Heads island * See View A. on enlarged plan of the North and Middle Travenes, No. 318. f Sea View B. on the same plan. CHAP. SI.] NORTH CHANNEL AND NORTH TRAVERSE. 297 S.E. are touching, E. ^ S.; and the mark for leading clear of this sand, at the distance of 2 cables to the north-east, is Reauz and Grosse islands touching S.E. by E. The west end of the same sand is cleared bj the line of St. Joachim church and the east end of Orleans in one. The leading mark to the westward, through the Western Narrows, after having arrived as far as the east end of the West Sand, are St. John and Dauphin points in one, bearing S.W. ^ W. Having cleared the Western Narrows there is a fine clear passage between Orleans isle and the Banks of Madame, not less than two-thirds of a mile wide, and with good anchorage all the way to the South Channel at St. John point, a distance of nearly 7 miles. On the south side of Orleans, St. Fran9uis church will be seen, 1^ miles from the north east end of the island, and the river Dauphin, affording shelter to boats 2^ miles farther to tliu south-west. lOTXoars for wostb CKAinra&. — To sail up the North channel by attention to the leading marks given in page 292, there will be no diffi- cull, - a 10 6 a 11 4 serredtoiiseand 3 14 9 3 8 fiill nearly in the 4 16 3 4 5 10 same manner, ez< ^ 4 45 17 8 n.w. 5 3 4 cepting that the ^ 6 1 6 rise after low 7 a water was not 7 35 L.W. quite so rapid. StBoque. L.W. 17 H.W. 1 a 6 1 14 9 2 5 3 2 11 9 , 3 9 6 3 8 6 4 13 6 4 5 « ' 5 16 3 5 3 5 35 17 H.w. 6 6 50 1 6 l:W. The Brandy uw. 17 Pots. 1 1 3 1 15 2 4 7 a 12 3 9 5 3 8 6 4 13 8 4 5 6 5 16 5 3 5 50 17 H.W. 6 6 34 1 L.W. Tadousac. uw. 17 H.W. Entrance of the 1 1 3 1 15 gaguenay 2 4 6 a 12 river. 3 8 3 8 4 12 4 4 5 15 6 5 1 6 8 17 aw. 6 16 The use of the table will appear evident from a consideration of what has been said in page 264, but to render it still plainer we wil? suppose a case. A ship bound up the river, and drawing 23 feet water, weighs from off the St. Anne buoy just as the stream of flood begins to make ; and it is judged from an estimation of her rate of sailing, in addition to that of the stream of flood, that she will be up to the Channel patch in li hours, and at the Beaujeu bank in 3 hours. Will she have water enough to pass over the Channel patch, and afterwards to the southward of the Beaujeu bank, and how much at each place ? Now the stream of ebb at St. Roque runs down 1;^ hours after low water by the shore, but it is not low water until about a quarter of an hour later at the Pillars. 102 ^!2' TIDES, '^^':) [chat. s. * he flood had therefore bedn rising about one hour there when the thfp weighed. The tide will therefore have been rising 2^ hours when she arrives at the Channel patch, which may be couHidcrcd the same as the ipiilurs. Referring to the foregoing table, it will be found that the rise from low water answering to 2^ hours is about 1 fathom, wh'cli being added to 3 fathoms, the depth (shown on the plan) over the Channel patch at low water, gives 4 fathoms as the depth over it at the time when the ship is expected to pass, which is only one foot to spore. Again, it is not low water at Crane island, near the Beaujeu bank, until 40m.,— say three-quarters of an hour, later than at St. Roque ; the tide had therefore only risen half an hour at the Beaujeu bank when the ship weighed ; which being added to 3 hours, the time she expects to be going there, will give 3^ hours flood at the time of her arrival. Now, for 3^ hours after low water the table gives about 2 fathoms rise, there will therefore be 5 fathoms to the southward of the Beaujeu bank at 8^ hours flood in ordi- nary spring tides, to which the table is adapted, and consequently water enough for the largest ships. : ' •; i ) • ♦•■•-•J •*' .'r. 303 •3 tH ij^ It I.. "i .r vi ..« .i CHAPTER XII. M^, 1 'I'l .-• , ,t.l RIVER BT. LAWRENCE,— THE RIVER SAOUENAYi AND THE ST. * LAWRENCE ABOVE QUEBEC. f' i Variation, in Sagnenay RiTer 10° Weit; and Queb«o o Mnntnal, 16'^ to 10'^ West, ' I .»....<* Til* Bwas SAavavAT was but imperfectly known, in a nautical point of view, before the Admiralty survey of it in 1829.* In the preceding year, 1828, CommisBionera had been appointed to explore it by the Colonial Grovemment, and one of the results was to dissipate all those extravagant exaggerations respecting the rapidity of its currents, it» whirlpools, and its unfathomable depths, which had found their way into the few publications where any account of this river could be found. There was, however, little need of exaggeration, for the Saguenay really is a very remarkable and extraordinary river, if that indeed can with strict propriety be called a river which more nearly resembles a long and narrow mountain loch for the first 60 miles up from its confluence with the St. Lawrence. In this distance the Saguenay is from two-thirds of a mile to 2 milea wide, filling up a deep transverse valley through mountains of sienitic granite and gneiss. These mountains rise everywhere more or leas abruptly from the water, forming, in some parts, precipitous head- lands more than 1,000 feet in height, and these, when seen one beyond the other up magnificent reaches of many miles in length, give rise to scenery which, although wild and barren, is yet full of grandeur and beauty. The granitic hills are in general quite barren, but the valleys, through which the rapid tributary streams descend, are filled with a deep deposit of sand and clay, and are thickly wooded. At Ah-ah bay and at Chicoutimi there are considerable tracts of good land, as there are also around Lake St. John ; so that it seems probable that this country will be settled at no very distant day, especially as the Lumberers have recently begun to turn their attention in that direction. In 1829 the only per- manent inhabitants were the residents at the Hudson Bay Company's trading posts at Tadousac and Chicoutimi. Now, in 1860, there are settlements at Ah-ah bay, and other parts of the river. * See Cbart :— River St Lawrence, below Quebec, Sheet in., No. 313 ; scale, m ; an inch : and Flan of Saguenay River, No. 1,370 ; scale, m a 0*7 of an inch. ,0-9 of S04 BIYBR ST. LAWBENCB. [nding on the ■urfacc. The tide flows to the foot of tlio Terren Uonipues Rapid, about 6 miles oliovo Cliicoutimi, and nbuiit 71 miloH from tlie St. Lawrence. The Htrenm of the ebb tide is very stron^i, varying from 3 to 5 knot«, according to the breadth of the river. It is Btrongewt in tho mouth of the river, where it Hometiimf^ runs at (lie rate of 7 knots, and HotH strongly over Lork Islet spit ond the «outh-weat oxdTmity of Vaches point. Tho mooting of tho Bprlng oljb tides down the Saguonny and the St. Lowronco causes breaking and whirling eddies ond i ipplings, so strong as to interfere with tho steerage of a vessel, unless she has a com« manding brcezo. These streams, opposed to a heavy easterly gale, cause an exceedingly high, cross, and breaking sea, in which no boat could live, and which is even considered dangerous to ^^small^vessels. On tho flood tide, at such times, there is not moro sea there^than in other parts of the river, airrmAxroa or th« SAomnrAT — Tho river Saguenay entora the St. Lawrence opposite Red and Green islands, as see page 257, wherein has been described its points of entrance (Lark point ond Vache" point), Lark islet, and the reefs off them, together with the leading marks and buoys for clearing them, as far as required for the guidance of vessels passing up or down tho St. Lawrence ; also the anchorage of Moulin Baude, 2 or 3 miles to the eastward of Yaches point, ond of Basque road to tho westward of Lark reef ; these anchorages avIU be of great use to vessels fx-equenting the Saguenay. avOTS.->Thc entrance of the Saguenay is buoyed as follows :— On the eastern side of the entrance, on Voches patch, a black buoy lies in 2^ fathoms, with tho beacon on Hot point just open to the westward of the beacon on Rouge point ; and Lark point just open to tho southward of the beacon on Lark islet. On tho Outer patch oft" the Bar reef a chequered black and white buoy lies in 3 fathom.^, with tho north side of the Brandy Pots open to the northward of White island half the breadth of the latter ; and the north-west Company's house at Tadousac just shut in behind Rouge point. To the westward of the entrance, tho white buoy on tho outer or southernmost extreme of Lark reef is moored in 4^ fathoms, with Red island lighthouse bearing E. ^ S., and the diamond beacon on the north-east bonk of Tadousac harbour in one with the beacon on Lark islet. [ST.L.] — ^VOL. I. Jt 806 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [OHAP. xn." • Referring to the Admiralty chart for the shape of the extensive reefs on either side, it will be seen that the entrance channel between the chequered buoy, on the Outer patch off the Bar reef, and the black buoy on Vaches patch, is nearly a mile wide, and has 18 to 20 fathoms water in it. At the distMDce of 2 miles within the chequered buoy, Lark .Islet spit runs out eastward towards Vaches point, and contracts the channel to about three quarters of a mile. In this narrowest part of the entrance, the depth is 30 fathoms, and immediately within it there is no bottom at 60 or 70 fathoms. ST. CATHBSXWB BAT. — On the west side of the entrance of the Saguenay, between Lark islet and Noire point, is St, Catherine bay, in which vessels may anchor, in 20 or 30 fathoms water, out of the strength of the tides, but exposed to a considerable swell in easterly winds. On the north-west side of this bay there are several large iron rings in the steep granitic shore, which were probably used for mooring or heaving down vessels in the time of the French. ■ TABOVOAC BABBOUX is on the eastern side of the entrance of the Saguenay, and a mile within Vaches point. It is a bay between Rouge and Hot points, with a sandy beach at its head, and rather more than half a mile wide and a third of a mile deep. The anchorage is in from 7 to 18 fathoms, clay bottom. Vessels ought always to moor, and have a heavy anchor close in shore, for the gusts from the north-west are at times exceedingly powerful, and should the anchor start, there would be little chance of bringing up again before the vessel had dragged her anchor down hill into deep water. Besides, although vessels are here completely out of the regular streams of the tides, yet eddies often set into the bay, causing a vessel to swing round several times in a tide, so that it would be almost impossible to keep a clear anchor. The shelter is rendered complete in every direction by either land or reefs, excepting for one point between S.E. by S. and S.S.E., and there Red islet, with the south coast beyond it at no great distance, prevent any sea, of consequence even to a boat, from ever entering the harbour. The Hudson Bay Company's Trading Post, consisting of a good dwelling-house, stores, and a small chapel for the Indians, is situated on a semi-circular terrace of sand and clay, at the head of the bay, and backed by steep, high, and rugged hills of granite. It has a small portion of land around it fit for cultivation. It is the principal of those posts for trading with the Indians which are known by the name of the " King's Posts," and were, in 1829, leased to the Hudson Bay Company. The French explored the Saguenay before the middle of the sixteenth century, and Tadousac soon after became, and remained till the settlement of Canada, their principal post in the St. Lawrence for carrying on the fur CHAP, zii.] RIVER SAOUENAY ; TADOUSAC HARBOUR. 307 1 trade with the Indians. The Saguenaj is three quarters of a mile wide from Hot point, the north-west point of the harbour of Tadousac, across to Noire point. nntBOTioiTB. — The buojs now placed at the entrance of the Saguenay will be found of great assistance to a vessel beating into the river, there being no clearing mark for the reefs on the south-west side of the, entrance ; and if another buoy were added to the Lark Islet spit, vessels might beat in and out at all times with safety. On the north-east or Yaches point side observe, that Hot and Laboule points in one, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. just clear the south-west side of Vaches Point reef ; Hot point being the rather low north-west point of the harbour of Ta- dousac and Laboule a high and round-backed hill, forming a steep head- land, 4 miles above Tadousac, and the extreme point seen on the same side of the river. Winds from S.W., round south, to N.E. will enable a vessel to enter the Saguenay on the flood-tide. The first, which is the prevailing summer wind, will not carry her far up, since she will be becalmed under the mountainous shores ; but the north-east wind, or wind up the St. Law- rence, draws also up the Saguenay, and is the only wind which can be depended on for running a vessel up to the anchorages above Tadousac. The north-west wind often blows down the river in furious squalls, especially in the fall of the year. , :. . Being bound to the Saguenay, approach the entrance early on the flood - with a breeze which can be depended on, and plenty of daylight to reach the anchorage of Tadousac. Remember that the ebb sets like a rapid over Lark Island spit and Vaches Point reef, and that it is dangerous to be becalmed just within either of them, because the water is so deep that it is difficult to anchor. If night be coming on, or the tide or the wind be unfavourable, anchor off Moulin Baude or in Basque road, according to circumstances, and wait for an opportunity for running in, unless a vessel has a pilot sufficiently skilful to beat her in with safety. Whether the entrance is approached from the south-west or north-east in either case bring the western points of the Brandy Pots and White islet in one and open to the southward of Hare island, bearing S.S.W. JW. Run upon this mark (and it will lead well clear of the Vaches patch and Lark reefs) until Laboule point comes in one with Hot point, bearing N.W. by W. i^ W., as mentioned above. Haul in now for the last named leading mark, keeping the south-west extreme of Laboule just open, and it will lead in clear of all danger. As soon as the vessel is as far in as Rouge point, she may haul in towards the trading posts and into the harbour, choosing her berth at pleasure, but letting go the outer anchor in 16 fathoms, and the inner one close to the low- water mark ; or she V 2 308 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. zii. may lay it and secure it within the low-water mark, if that should be preferred as the safer plan. The marks above given, are often difficult to distinguish, but the buoys, supposing them to be securely moored, have rendered them no longer absolutely necessory ; since there can be no difficulty with a fair wind in running in between buoys nearly a mile apart. Anchorages in the Saguenay. BAXlQVB COVB, rather more than a mile above Tadousac, and on the same side of the river, is 2 cables deep. A vessel or two might be mooi*ed in it. ST. vrtaanm bat and Bzvmi are 10^ miles up the Sagucnny, and on its south-west shore. The bay is a mile wide, and forms a harbour where a number of vessels may ride in from 10 to 30 fathoms clay bottom, along the edge of the bank which dries out a third of a mile from the shore. 8T. XOVZ8 ISKB, 17 miles up the river, forms an excellent anchorage, either under its east end or between it and the south shore ; the depth of water being from 10 to 30 fathoms, sand and mud bottom. ST. BABTBB&iiMl xsziB, a mife higher up, and on the opposite side of the river, lies close to the mouth of the river Cacard. A vessel or two might be secured there ; the place being small, and the depth of water from 6 to P.0 fathoms. ■%' XBAir, on the southern shore, and 24 miles up the Saguenay, is a large bay with a small islet off its north-west point. It is 1| miles wide and 1^ miles deep. The river St. Jean and several small streams enter at its head. Off these streams, and along the edge of the bank which dries out a quarter of a mile from the shore, there is good anchorage for many vessels, in from 8 to 40 fathoms mud bottom. a, on the same side as St. Jean, and 6 miles higher up the river, is a large cove, half a mile wide and 1^ miles deep, with a river of the same name at its head. At the head of this cove, vessels may lie securely, in from 8 to 30 fathoms, mud bottom, and as securely land- locked as if they were in a small lake surrounded with mountains. BBSCBirTB d«B raiUMBB is a cove 3^ cables long, with a depth of 20 fathoms at its entrance, decreasing to 5 fathoms near its head. Several vessels might lie moored in it in great security. It is 42 miles up the river, and on its northern shore. Five miles above thia cove the Saguenay turns suddenly to the north- ward, between Cape East and Cape West, but the previous direction of [CUAF. ZII. CHAP. ZII.] RIVER 8AGUENAY; ANCHORAGES. 309 should be a difficult )red, have an be no rly a mile ,nd on the )e moored >nny, and I harbour ly bottom, from the nchorage, depth of ite side of )l or two of water enay, is a iles wide ms enter ik which )rage for r up the t river of I may lie ely land- • depth of Several s up the le north- iction of the river is continued 6 or 7 miles beyond the point last named to the head of Ah-ah bay, 55 miles from the entrance of the river. > AH-AH BAT is 6 miles deep and from 1^ to 2| miles wide, the widest part being at its head where four considerable streams fall into it. The best anchorage is on either side of a small islet joined to the shore at low water in the south-west corner of the bay, and from 7 out to 30 fathoms, clay bottom. There is room for any number of vessels, but they are rather exposed in easterly winds. MTXTllB l&as on the northern shore of the river, 52 miles from its entrance, and 4^ above Cape East, are three small rocky islets joined to the shore at low water. The bay on the east side of them forms a small but secure anchorage. The depth of water is from 6 to 17 fathoms, mud bottom. The Saguenay, which is here nearly 2 miles wide and with a depth of 65 fathoms, is contracted to three-quarters of a mile, by a high rocky point projecting from its northern shore, at the distance of 2 miles to the westward ; but expands again nearly to the same breadth in the next 3 miles, which is the distance from the high point just mentioned to Roches point. On the north side of the river, from the high point to within a mile of Roches point, there is good anchorage in any depth out to 20 fathoms. mocBBB vozvT is 57 miles from the entrance of the river, and here the navigation ends for shipping, but continues for schooners to Chi- coutimi, 8 miles farther, as mentioned in page 304. The river is still 1^ miles wide at Roches point, but contracts rapidly above it, assuming at the same time the usual character of a river, such as mud-banks on either side dry at low water, shoals of large boulder stones, drift trees, &c. The water also becomes fresh when the tide is out. CBICOUTZMZ BZVBR and TBABIHO POST are on the south side of the Saguenay, and 65 miles from its entrance. This river is the largest tributary to the Saguenay. It falls 40 or 50 feet, through a narrow, rocky, and rugged channel, only a short distance within its entrance. The Trading Post of Chicoutimi is one of the King's Posts, and leased to the Hudson Bay Company. It stands on the west side of the river Chicoutimi at its confluence with the Saguenay, and consists of a good dwelling-house, store, barn, and inferior buildings. There is also here a small church or chapel, erected by the Jesuit missionaries in the early part of the last century, still kept in repair by the Indians, and visited once or twice in a year by a missionary from Quebec. Several of the early missionaries were buried in this chapel, and their tombstones may yet be seen. There is here a considerable, space fit for cultivation. 310 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [chap. xa. Potatoes and garden vegetables are raised for the use of the people of the establishment. From Lake St. John to within 5 or 6 miles of this Post, a distance of 10 or 11 leagues, the Saguenay is said to be so full of heavy rapids as to be exceedingly dangerous to canoes, therefore the longer and more cir- cuitous route up the Chicoutimi, through Lake Kiguagomi, and down the Metabetshuan river is preferred. At the mouth of this last named river, on the south shore of Lake St. John, stands another of the King's Posts, leased by the Hudson Bay Company. It was established first by the Jesuit missionaries in the 16th century, and traces of their cultivation still remain. No directions are necessary for ascending the Saguenay to the an- chorages just mentioned, since there is not a single rock or shoal in the way from Tadousac to the anchorage below Roches point. The times of high water at the full and change, and the rise of the iides, will be seen on the Admiralty charts. RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. BAV&T PASS. — Just above the entrance of the Chaudifere river (which is on the southern shore, and 5 or 6 miles above Quebec), the St. Law- rence is rather less than 4 cables wide, between steep, high, and partially- wooded banks, composed of greywackfe and slate rocks, and of great beauty. The channel of the river is still farther reduced at low water by rocky shoals, which dry out from the shore on either side. The breadth of the stream is then only 2| cables, but the depth is nearly 30 fathoms, and the rate of the stream of ebb about 6 knots. This narrow pass is called the Sault ; and it is here that the drift-ice packs and forms an ice-bridge, over which a sleigh road is formed almost every winter.* , , AircBOSAOa.— At Carouge point, on the northern shore, and about 8 miles above Quebec, there is an excellent anchorage ; and the river here begins to expand into a magnificent reach, from 2 to 2^ miles wide, which extends to the westward as far as the eye can reach. The high and steep banks on either side, forming occasionally precipitous headlands, are suited to the grandeur of the stream ; while the fields and houses of the peasantry, and the villages, 6 or 7 miles apart, with their stone churches and tinned ♦ See Charts:— River St. Lawrence above Quebec, Sheets 1 to 13 inclusive; scales, m ss 3 inches : and Flan of Montreal Harbour, No. 1,127 ; scale, m =:6 inches. CHAP. XII. >le of the atance of ids as to nore cir- tlown the ed river, 's Posts, 8t by the iltivation the ati" )al in the se of the CHAP. XII.] QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 311 jr (which St. Law- partially- of great ow water de. The is nearly ts. This ice packs Dst every ore, and chorage ; ch, from r as the forming ideur of and the id tinned ve; scales, steeples, often situated on the projecting points and headlands, form alto- gether scenery of considerable beauty. TKBMB&a MiOAf. — The navigation of the river is devoid of all difficulty as far '«s the dangerous shoala of Pointe aux Trembles, on the northern shore, and 18 or 19 miles above Quebec. These shoals extend westward for many miles up the river, leaving a channel between them and the southern shore, in some places only 4 cables wide. Still there are no difficulties in the navigation that may not b^ egsi^y overcome, even in the largest ships, as high as Port N.euf, which is on the northern shore, and 32 miles above Quebec. lilOHTB. — A small wooden lighthouse, 20 feet high, and painted white, is erected at St. Croix, on the south shore of the river, a few yards from high water-mark. It shows, at 30 feet above the level of high water, a Jixed white light, to assist in keeping a vessel in the channel for some distance, up and down the river. In clear weather the light will be seen from a distance of 6 miles. Two small lighthouses, the upper one of stone, and the lower of wood, both white, are also erected at Port Neuf, on the northern shore of the river. They stand S.W. and N.E. of each other, nearly 180 yards apart, and each exhibit a fixed white light, visible at 5 miles. When in one they lead up the Richlieu, through the middle of the channel, to abreast Richlieu islet ; after which the two lights on the southern shore, at 1^ miles below Richlieu islet, kept in one, lead through the remainder of the channel.* XICH&ZBU XAPZB. — The first great difficulty in the navigation is the Richlieu rapid, which commences just above Port Neuf, and extends nearly to Grondine, 41 miles aboi{e...QB«bec' ' In the narrowest part of the Richlieu the ehannel at low water is between extensive shoals of immense boulder stones, and only 460 yards wide. There is water enough for any vessel, but there is only about an hour of very weak stream of flood, while the ebb runs in spring tides at the rate of fully 7 knots. This is, therefore, a difficult and dangerous pass, which, before there were steam tow-boats on the St. Lawrence, used often to cause great delay to vessels in those seasons when westerly winds prevail. The steamers regulate the time of their departure from Quebec so as to arrive at the foot of the Richlieu with the flood tide, and they are assisted by a small light on Richlieu islet on the southern side of the channel, and also by two other lights on the high land to the eastward of the former, and which lead through the upper part of the channel. * Small wooden square, and white, lighthouses have been recently erected on Langlais point, below Great Chene river ; on St. Pierre des Becquets, at Batiscan, Champlain, Cape Magdalen, Fort St. Francis, and Fointe du Lac, as will be seen on the Admiralty charts, River St. Lawrence above Quebec, and in the Admiralty Lights List 312 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [oiur. zn. -At Port Neuf the spring tides rise 14 feet, while at Gron* dine they only rise 9 feet ; there is, therefore, a great difference in the rise of the tides at the foot and head of the Bichlieu, namely, 5 feet in 9 miles, so that it seems that the descent in the bed of the St, Law- rence is there very considerable. The navigation above the Richlieu continues more or less difficult, and is so embarrassed by shoals and large boulders that at Livrour point (opposite the river St. Anne, and 47 or 48 miles above Quebec), the ship channel is reduced to the breadth of 360 yards. The villages of Champlain and Gentilly are opposite to each other, and 58 miles from Qurbec, the former being on the northern and the latter on the southern shore. They may be said to mark the extent of the stream of flood tide, which was not observed above the shoals of Gentilly, where the ordinary springs, unless assisted by an easterly gale, do not rise above 2 or 3 feet. Here also a considerable change takes place in the character of the country, for the high banks, which had continued to form the southern shore of the river all the way from opposite Quebec, turn back into the country, and the shores on both sides become low and of an alluvial appearance. At the town of Three Rivers, 68 miles above Quebec, the ordinary spring tides rise one foot, and it is high water, full and change, at 11^ hours. In the spring and fall easterly gales often occur with the spring tides, and cause them to rise, it is said, a foot or two higher. At Fointe du Lac, at the lower entrance of Lake St. Peter, and 75 miles from Quebec, the neap tides are almost imperceptible, and the spring tides, unless assisted by an easterly gale, do not rise above 3 or 4 inches. The effect of the tides may be said to be lost in Lake St. Peter, since no alternate rise and fall of the water, that could be attributed to their influence, was observed among the islands at its head. It n^uld be possible to take the largest vessels to the lower entrance of Lake St. Peter, since 4 fathoms could be carried up by buoying the channel. 8T. S'SraB. — The distance up this Lake from Pointc du Lac to the islands is about 18 miles, of which about 4 miles are over a flat of sand and clay, on which there were not more than 11 or 12 'feet in the ordinary state of the waters in the summer months, at the time of the Admiralty survey. Since then a ship channel, 300 feet wide, an:! >\ *th 18 feet water in it, has been completed by dredging. At the western extremity of the flat or bar of the Lake a small light- tessel and buoy are placed, to mark the entrance to the principal channel OBAP. ZIL] QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 313 through the islands, as well as the deepest water through the Lake. A second light-vessel is moored on the north side of the channel, 3 miles N.E. by N. from Flat island, and a third light is shown from Raisin island. Besides the flat of Lake St. Peter, there is another impediment to the navigation at La Yaltrie bar, about li^ miles below the two small light> houses on La Valtrie island, the latter being near the northern shore, about 12 miles above Sorel, and 111 from Quebec. The depth of water over that bar has also been increased by dredging from 11 or 12 feet to 18 feet in the ordinary state of the river during the summer months. The channel above Lake St. Peter is often narrow, and difficult for sailing vessels, and the current, the average rate of which does not exceed 2 or 3 knots, is in some narrow places of considerably greater strength. At the Rapid of St. Mary, just below the city of Montreal, the rate of the current amounts to 7 knots, and used formerly to detain vessels many days waiting for a fair and strong wind to ascend; but the steamers now overcome all such difficulties, reducing the passage up from Quebec, which not unusually occupied weeks, to a certain duration of a few hours. They have been greatly assisted by the lights at Repentigny and Pointe aux Trembles, which have lately been erected, in addition to the light on Bague isle. Moreover, the navigation has recently been much improved by dredging near Pointe aux Trembles, Cape St. Michel, and Vercheres, to make the channel more direct. Also the channel passing south of Vercheres island, which was first shown by the Admiralty survey to be the prefer- able and deeper channel, has been buoyed and lighted, and is now always used by vessels of large draught, instead of the channel passing north of Vercheres island. In short, the whole river, as well as Lake St. Peter, is now so well buoyed and lighted, that steamers tow vessels night and day without stopping, except in fogs, through the narrowest parts of the channel, and the whole distance ('about 138 miles), from Quebec to Mon- treal, is often accomplished in 24 hours, by leaving Quebec so as to arrive at the Richlieu rapid with the flood tide. WKomnKMUL^ BAttBOVB. — The dredges, which, under the able super- intendance of Captain Armstrong, have so greatly improved the navi- gation of the river, have also been successfully employed in deepening the harbour of Montreal, near the wharves in front of the city. The depth is now sufficient for vessels as large as can pass through Lake St. Peter. Immediately above Montreal the navigation for shipping is closed l)y the commencement of the Rapid of St. Louis. Three-quarters of a mile south of the harbour is the Victoria Tubular Bridge, stretching I'i' 314 BIVEB ST. LAWBENCE. [OHAT. ZII. across the rirer from St. Charles point to St. Lamberts. It is 6,600 feet long, and rests on piers 35 feet above the ordinary level of the river. This noble structure, which has been built under great engineering diffi- culties, owing to the rapidity of the current, and will cost, probably, two millions sterling, is for the Grand Trunk Railroad, which by this bridge is made continuous from Toronto to Portland, a distance of about 560 miles. SiBBOTioars. — In the long line of river navigation which has been thus briefly described, written directions Avould be, in most parts, totally unavailing ; and, in all cases, could only give, very imperfectly, the same information which is given in the Admiralty plans of the river on the scale 3 inches to the mile. These plans will be of great use iu pointing out possible improvements in the navigation, in the selec- tion of the best route to be pursued by vessels, and in buoying and light- ing the channels to the best advantage. In some ports, as at the Vercheres islands and Bague isle, where there is a lighthouse, the river is divided into several channels ; yet one route alone was pursued to the neglect of the others, which thus became nearly, if not entirely, unknown. As an instance of this, we may refer to the channel to the south of Vercheres island, already mentioned as having been lately buoyed and lighted, and preferred for vessels of large draught. The lighthouses at Bague isle. La Valtrie, and on the islet in the Richlieu Rapid, are small and portable, so that they may be removed on the approach of winter, and thus escape being carried away by the ice ; for in spring those low islets are overflowed, and the ice, moreover, in moving down the river, often packs, forming a " digue " or dam, behind which the waters rise many feet, until their pressure overcomes and bursts through the impediment with such force, that not only buildings would give way before it, but even many trees are often prostrated in the low grounds, and great banks of rolled stones are forced up by the ice on the upper ends of islands which are exposed to the current. Great damage is sometimes done at Montreal from the ice taking the ground and damming back the water so as to overflow the wharves and storehouses in the lower parts of the city, and thus exposing them to the pressure of the drift ice. Hence it is that vessels cannot winter at Mont- real, and that the steamers are sent either to Sorel, at the entrance of the river Richelieu, or to the Boucherville islands, those being the only places where they or other large vessels can be safe from the ice, although there are many places where Durham boats and other small river craft may be secured. There is no doubt but that large stones are moved by the ice, and that the depth of water over shoals will vory in consequence ; but from all that can be gathered, there has been no ClUP. UI.] QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 815 material change in the main channels of the river for many years. The islands and flats of Lake St. Peter are doubtless extending to the eastward or down the Lake, but without as yet affecting the depth of water in the channel. Besides the lights which have have mentioned, the navigation is assisted by rough buoys, formed of logs and attached spruce bushes, placed in the most difficult parts of the channel. The numerous leading marks used by the pilots are seldom permanent, or of a nature to admit of such a description as would enable a stranger to distinguish them from many other similar objects in their vicinity. They consist almost always of trees and houses, which can be easily and certainly recognized only by those who have become familiar with every object, and whose local know- ledge prevents them from being misled, even although the trees be blown down, or the houses change their colour and appearance at the fancy of the owners, as occasionally occurs. These circumstances confirm what has been before stated as to the inutility of written directions for the navigation of the St. Lawrence, between Quebec and Montreal. But it is a rare thing now to see large vessels sailing in the St. Lawrence above Quebec, especially on the upward passage. The powerful steamers frequently tow several large ships at once, and the commerce between the two cities is never likely in future to be carried on without such assistance, so that the seaman will have little to do with the navigation of his vessel above Quebec. Jmm':^ ; 816 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. [oHAT. xn. Positions of Buoys in the River St. Lawhence. Which Depth of Water in POUTION. Side of Colour. Mabx* for BvoTi. Channel. Fathoms. North eitroroity of Beau< mont iboal (page 282). South Black 4 St. Lawrence rhnrch, North i point Levi church JuHt open northward of Martinioro point. West and of Madame island (page 286). Middle Bod 51 SI Vallior church S. t R. : a house on the west end of Re-\us island Just open to the northward of Madams isUnd. Rock on Quarantine Qround (paffe2Ss). North Chequered bbuik and whito 7 North side of the rock : south-wosi point of Goose island W.8.W. East end of Grosse Patch (page 284). Middle Whito u North side of Mnrgarct island N.B. b.E.iE. Vest end of Margarets tail (page 284). North Bed a South side of Margaret island N.S. b.B. West end of Crane island ahoal (page 284), North Bed s The two beacons (In sugar loaf fnrnii on the south side or Crane islanr in one ; Middle and Crow islands io one. North extreme of Bank of St. Thomas (page 272). South Black t The red sugar loaf and ioAt/« diamond beacons, on the south point of Crane island, In one ; and Haystack island in one with tho west point of Crane island. South side of Crane island (page 276). North Bed 8) Macpherson hoose N. i E. ; St. Ignace church touc'iLg the cast end of the penlnsuk, West end of Beai^eu bank (page 276). Middle White 3 The two white beacons on Crane island in onei Stone Pillar light- house open two or throe sails' breadth to the southward of Goosa island reef, Goose island shoal (page 276). North Bed 4 Onion island N.W. ; south side of Crane island S.M'.iW. East end of the patch, east of Beaigeu bank (page 170). Middle White 8 Tho beacon on the Meadows of Goose island in one with the centre of Onion island ; the south side of Crane UUnd 8.W. b. W. i W. Channel patch (page 276). • Middle Chequered black and white 8 The diamond beacon in the parish of St. Jean, Port Jolie, open to tho westward of St. Jean church i the north side of Goose island reef and Stone Pillar in one. Patch otr St. Jean church (page 271). South BUck S Tho beacon in sugar-loaf form in the parish of St. Jean, port Jolie, in one with the church ; tho hieh rock on Goose island net just shut in behind the south jmint of tho South Pillar. South-west point of Shoals of St. Boque in the Tra- verse (page 871). South Black 8 St. Boque church E. } N.; the high rock at the south-west extreme of Goose island reef open one or two degrees to the northward of the Btone Pilkur. our. zii.] ^ POSITIONS OF BUOYS. rositioM of Buoys in the River St Lawrence— conii. I. m PosiTioir. Which Side of Channel. Colour. Depth of W'iter in Fathoms. Makkb for BvoTi. Middle of ihoalt of St. Boque in the Travene (page 271). South Black 81 East end of Coudrei island in one with river Eglise, on the north shore, N. i W.) the Wood IMllar shut in its own breadth with the south side of Ooose island S.W.IW. West end of the Middle ground (page ii71). North Bed 8 Two beacons in one in the parish of St. Rociuo) the Wood Pillar and (jloose island touuhing. South-eaat side of the Middle ground (page i!71). North Bed 2k The beacon to the southward of St. Roquo church in one with the r«ntro of Francois Marie Foulard* house. North-east extreme of shoals ' of8t.Hoquo(pago271). South Black 2 The beacon to the southward of St. Roque church in one with the west end of Francois Marie Foulard'i house. North-west of shoals of St. Anne (page 2S1). South Black t\ St. Anne church S.E. } S.; Cape Dinble half open to the northward of St. Denis point. West end of Hare island bank (page 245). Middle Red 4 Two beacons in one on the east end of Grande island of Kamou- rosea; the north sides of Hare island and Hare island South reef touching. North extremity of the Pll- grim (page 8«a>. South Black it The west end of Hare island and the west end of Great lllgrlm in line N.N.W. J W and 8.8.K. \ E. •, the west end of Brandy I'otsaud White island touching. TLe knoll at the east end of Hare island bank (page 844). North Bed 3 The south side of Hare island and and the middle of White island in one : the west end of Hare island N.W. i W. Eaat end of the Middle ihoal, off the south side of Hare island (page 216). Middle White 10 feet The square beacon on Hare island open to the westward of the Brandy Pots; the south- west end of Hare island in one with the summit of Eboulemcns l ountains. Barrett ledge (page 246). • Middle Chequered black and white e The diamond beacon on Hare island in lino with the eastern extremity of the Brandy Pots; the south side of the southernmost mountain of Kamourasca in lino with the south point of Great Pilgrim island. Hast end of Hare island North reef (page 243). Middle Black 4 The beacon in the parish of Oacona open to the eastward of Cacona church ; the south side of White islet in one with the north side of Hare island. This beacon open to the westward of the church, leads to the eastward of the east end of Hare island North reef. East end of Red Islet reef (page 242). Middle Bed 6* The south side of Rod islet in one with the north side of Hare island s the beacon on Green island open a little to the westward of the Light< house S.S.E. IE. Vest end of Eed islet (page 243). Middle Bed n The lighthouse on Bed islet E. b. N. i N.; the beacon on the north side of Bed islet in one with the south-west comer of the keeper's dwelling-house. f. i1 318 I RIVBR 8T. LAWBBMOB. [cbap. sii. PodUons of Buojrt in th« Rirer 8t Lawndm— eoN(iiiM«i. Which Depth of Water In POfllTIO*. Side of Colour. llAlKI for BUOTt. Channel. Fathomi. VkohM Mtoh (entnuiM of river 8affuen«]r(|McMU8, 806jt North Bbck i H The beacon on Hot point, Just open to the westward of the boaoon on to the southward or the beacon on Lark IsUnd. Outer patch (pasea 188, 80B)> North Chequered blaoK and white. S White island, half Its breadth shut with the north side of the Brand|y Potsi the north-west Company'a house. In the harbour of Tadousao, Just shut behind Bouge point. Boutheast bank of the harbour of Tadousao, In one with the beacon on Lark Uland. North eitremeof Prairie ■hoal(pa«eaM). t. ■ . ' - South BUck St. Pierre church, open Its own breadth with the cast side of St. Pauls bay N.W. i W.i Notre Dam* church in one with the south part of St. Joseph point B.N.B. Bait end of Brulft tMuik (page 886). South Black 1 The west end of Two heads island, and the west end of Burnt Cape ledge. In one S. 1 B. i Cape Tour- mente W.8.W. North-west lide of BruI6 bank (page we). South BbMsk The west end of Two heads island, and the east end of Margaret island, touching 8.U. b. E. i E.i the west end of GrosHO inland H. b. E. i B. Eaat end of TraTene q>it (paeeSM). North Bed The west end of Two heads island, and the east end of Margaret island. Just open B.B. b. B. IB.) west end ofOrosseisUndS.8.B. Bait end of the West Band (pase2M).. Middle Chequered black and white. Patience ishind and Two heads Island touching E. i S. i Berthier church Just open to westward of Beaux Island ¥^ i W. PosiTioxs ov Beacons in the Riteb St. Lawrence. ♦A POUTIOH. Parish of StYaUier (page 886). Crane island, on the south point. Onne Island, abontone cable's length to the westward of Bed beacon (page884). South North North White Bed White Bbmabxb. When In one with the church, forms a cross mark for south- west end of Madame reef, in 6 ikthoms. These two beacons in one, form a mark for the red buoy on the western extremity of Crane Ishmd spit. CiUF. Sir.] POtlTIOMS OP BEACONS. • ^'^ Poaitioni of Beteons tn the RiTer St. JjkWTtnot—eontiHued. 310 PonnoH. Orana Uland, uno cablo'i loiuth to I'luitward of. B«clb«M»u(piifo 27S). Onne iaiuid, kbout If cablet' lencthi to the B.W, of Maophenon houM (S), (imge li7B). Meadowiof QooM tiUuid (|N«e27S). ParUh of Bt. Jean. Port Jolie, tothe soutli-cast of the ohurob (page 271). Pariah of St. Jean, Port South Jolie, to the south-eaat of the church ( page 271) , Parlih of St. Boque (2), (page 271). Pariah of St. Boque (page 271). RlMABXa. When In one with the r*d beacon, form a mark for tho bUick l)uuv oil tho north extremity of the Bank of Bt. Thumaa. When In ono, form a erom mark for tlio whifi' buoy nii the woit cad uf Uoai^cu biiuk. When In one with Onion iiland, fumiH a crotiR nmrk for the white buoy on the patch eaat of BoaiOon bank. When in one with the church, forrnn a cross mark for the black buoy on St. Jean patch. Wlien in one with the church, forma a cross mark for the Chequered buoy on the Chan* nel patch. The diamond bpac>-in standj to the soutli-castward of the other, and when in one, forma a mark for the /vd buoy on the 3-fathoms patch on the north side of the Traverse.' When open its own breadth to the westward of the church, forms a cross mark for the llKht ship; when in one with the centre of Francois Marie Foulard's house, forms a cross mark for the north-east red buoy in the Traverse; and when in one with the west end of Foulard's house, forms a croM mark for the black buoy on the northern extremity of St. Roque shoal. 320 BIVER AND GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE. [cuau. xh. Positions of Beacons in the Biver St Lawrence — continued. Fosiiioir. Great Island of Kamou- rasca (2), (page ZK). Hare Island (page 846). N Parish of Cacona 24S). (page South Xorth South Green Island (page 242).- North-east bank of Ta- dousao harbour (page 806). __ . Biver Baguenuy. Hot point (page 309). Biver Sagucnay, Bouge point (page 305). Lark Islet (page 305). IRed I White White White i South White North- east. White North- east. White North- east. White South- west. White / Bemabks. They boar N. \ W. and S. I E. of each other, and when in one form a cross mark for the red buoy on the south-wont end of Hare Island bank in 4 fathoms. The one in diamond form when in one with the eastern ex- tremity of the Brandy Pots, forms a cross mark for the chequered buoy on the west rock of Barrett ledge ; the square one when open to the westward of the Brandy Pots, forms a cross mark for the iohite buoy on the Middle shoal, east end of Middle bank. Wlien open to the eastward of the church, forms a cross mark for the black buoy en the east end of Hare island North reef; when open to the westward of the church, forms a clearing mark for the east end of same reef. Wlion open westward of Green Island lighthouse, forms a mark for the red buov on the east end of Bed Island shoal ; when in one with the light- house, will clear the east end of Bed Island shoal. When in one with the beacon on Lark island, forms a mark for the white buoy on the south- west extremity of Lark reef. When open to the eastward of the l)eacon on Hot point, forms a mark for the chequered buoy on Taches patch. Wlien open to the northward of Lark point, forms a mark for the chequered buoy on Vaohea patch ; and in one with the dia- mond beacon on the north-east bank of Tadousao liarbour. forma a mark for the white buoy on the south-west ex- treme of Lark raef. CHAP.xn.] POSITIONS OF BEACONS. Positions op Beacons in the Gulp op St, Lawrence. 321 Position. Island of Anticosti, South point (page 73). Island of Anticosti, Pa- vilion river (page 7») Island of Anticosti, 6 miles East of Salt Lake Bay (page 7a). Island of Anticosti, Cape St. Mary (page 75). Height, 40 feet 40 feet Harbour of Quebec; on the hill in rear of Dia- mond )iarbour (page 29U). Colour. White White 401cet 40 feet North side of Chan- nel. White White White Form. Z^ z\ z\ z^ 1 ,^!k Lat. 49° 3' 43" N. ; Lonj?. 62' 18' W. Lat. 49° 9* 48" N. J Long.ea" CO W. Lat.49''l7'30"N.; Long.63»ie'W. Lat. 49° 40 30' N.;Long.63°56' W. Wlion open eastward of the Mortella tower, forma a mark for the eastern limit of the Ballast Ground. [sT. L.]— VOI-. I. 1! E A s I I I ( TABLE OF POSITIONS IN THE Gulf and River of St. Lawrence, on the South-East Coast of Nova Scotia, and in Newfoundland, Corrected to 1860, by Eear Admiral Bayfield. Place. Particular Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West. H.W. full and change. .SS> 'OQ St. Pauls Island Ditto Ditto Ditto - North Bird Rock Byron Islands East Island - Amherst Harbour Entry Island - Deadman Rock West Point - Cape Henry South-west Point South Point - Heath Point - East Point - Bear Bay - Observation Cape North Point - o 1 1/ 47 13 55 47 13 9 47 13 50 47 11 20 St. Pauls Island. North extreme East side of Neck - Light-house, north 1 end - - -J Light-house, south 1 end - - -J Magdalen Islands. Centre - - - 47 50 57 East point - - 47 47 53 70 fathoms north-1 west of eastern > extreme - -J North side of entrance North-west point ; 1 end of grassy bank / West point Anticosti Island, South-west extreme of the headland at high water South-east extreme Light-house - High-water murk Light-bouse - Extreme Entrance of river 47 37 33 47 14 23 47 17 1 47 16 3 •} West side, rivulet - Ditto, high water \ mark - - J near "1 / 1' h. m. 60 8 20 8 60 8 30 — 60 8 20 — 60 9 36 49 52 12 49 47 42 49 23 45 49 3 35 49 5 20 49 8 17 49 30 22 49 38 51 49 57 32 ft. 61 9 15 — 61 24 37 — 61 23 07 — 61 49 26 8 20 61 42 59 — 62 12 25 3 64 32 05 — 64 22 41 1 40 63 35 46 — 62 15 30 — 61 41 48 61 40 00 1 62 24 30 1 10 C2 41 24 — 64 8 58 — 5 324 NEWFOUNDLAND. Place. Particular Spot. Latitude North. Lonf^itude West. II.W. full and change. a uS .a-c OS a, St. Johns Harbour Ditto Ditto Newfoundland; East Coast. Chain Rock battery St. Jolins church "I cupola - - J Jones Stone, in Fort "I Townsend - -j O I II 47 34 2 47 33 52 47 33 57 O 1 II h. m. 52 40 50 7 30 52 42 03 — 52 42 18 — ft. Cape Pine Cape Race Trepassey Harbour Cape Ray Cod Roy Island Red Island Port Saunders Rich Point - Ferrole Point - Green Island - Cape Norman 46 37 4 46 39 12 46 43 32 Belle-isle Ditto Newfoundland ; South Coast. Lighthouse South extreme Shingle Neck • Newfoundland; West Coast. South extreme South side of Boat"! harbour - - j Shingle, south-cast "I point - •• - J North -cast point oi*"! entrance - - J Western extreme, high water - Cove point, north east exti'emo 53 31 45 — 53 2 40 — 53 22 20 7 } pth- "I 11 cables from north- 1 cast end - - j North side of point"! of Cove, South of > east extreme -J 47 37 02 47 52 30 48 33 50 50 38 28 50 41 39 51 2 14 51 24 10 51 37 57 Gulf of St. Lawrence ; North Coast. North-east point "1 (magnetic)- -/ Lighthouse 52 1 8 51 53 55 15 30 55 22 15 6^ 59 18 15 — 59 23 52 — 59 13 23 — 57 18 00 10 30 57 24 20 — 57 2 45 — 56 33 50 — 55 53 25 — 30 .B ^ ■a-c ft. 7 6i GULF OP ST. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. 325 Place. Particular Spot. Latitude Nortli. Cape St. Lewis Battle Islands Henley Island York Point - Red Bay Loup Bay Forteau Bay - Amour Point - Bradoro Hills - Ditto - Ditto - Greenly Island Bradoro Harbour - Belles Amours Point Lion Island - Mistanoque Island - Mecattina Harbour Grand Mecattina Point } Antrobus Point Hare Harbour Wapitagun Harbour Cape Whittle } Small peninsula onl south-cast point - j North-east extreme "| of south-east is- > land - - -J Middle of north side East extreme - Harbour island, south-east point ■ Flag-staff at head of hay - South-west extreme of point - Lighthouse North-west hill, ^ 1,264 feet high, I the Notre Dame j of Cook and Lane J Soutii-hill, 1,135 feet Middle or Nv vtli-east hill North-cast point Flag- staff on Jones 1 house - - J South-east extreme - Isthmus East point of cove in "1 North side island j South point of Dead "1 Cove - - J South-east extreme - North point of island East side, (see chart) East point of islet ^ on southern side > of anchorage -J South-west extreme 1 of Lake island - J Longitude West. H.W. full and change. .ss, o 1 ii 52 21 16 52 15 36 52 51 57 53 51 43 47 51 31 27 51 25 29 51 27 35 51 35 3 51 33 54 51 34 49 51 23 11 51 27 30 51 26 34 51 24 1 51 15 43 50 46 44 50 44 2 50 33 12 50 36 24 50 11 40 50 10 36 t II h. m. 55 38 25 6 30 h^ 32 20 — ^^ 50 30 7 35 55 52 50 — 56 25 30 7 45 56 48 55 — 56 56 30 m 50 53 — 57 11 55 — 57 11 40 — . 57 10 55 — 57 10 40 — 57 14 12 8 45 57 25 50 9 GO 57 38 30 9 15 58 12 15 10 30 58 59 20 — 59 10 — 59 16 45 59 17 20 —. 60 01 20 10 30 60 07 00 — ft. •'ri]f{ 326 GULP OF 8T. LAWRENCE ; NORTH COAST. Place. Particular Spot. Jjatitude North. Longitude West. Coacoacho Bay Kegashka Bay Natashquan Biver - Littio Natashquan "I Harbour - - j Nabesippi Biver - Watcheeshoo Pen insula :} Appetetat Bay Betcheween Harbour Clearwater Point Mingan Harbour Mingan Island St. John River Manitou Point St. Charles Point ■ Moisie Biver Carousel Island Seven Islands Bay • St. Margaret Point Cawee Islands Egg Islands - Trinity Bay - Point de Monts Do. South point of outer "1 islet - - / Islet at south end of 1 the beach - - f Southern point of entrance North point islet at "1 head of bay - j First Granite pointy south'Cast of en- > trance - -J Summit "-} } East point South-east point of Low isle - South-west extreme - Sandy point - Summit East point of entrance Extreme - - - South extreme at high water - South-west point of entrance - South extreme Store-house, east side Extremity West point of Little "I island - - j West point of North "1 island - - j South-west point Lighthouse South extreme it! '} 50 9 4 50 11 19 50 6 57 50 11 41 50 13 52 50 16 18 50 16 35 50 14 13 50 12 27 50 17 24 oO 12 48 50 17 3 50 17 34 50 15 17 50 11 16 50 5 21 50 13 50 2 25 49 49 21 49 38 13 49 23 39 49 19 35 49 18 41 O I II 60 18 10 61 15 35 61 47 55 61 50 30 62 13 00 62 41 10 62 58 10 63 10 29 63 27 03 64 01 53 64 7 28 64 20 13 65 14 05 65 48 45 66 4 85 66 23 30 66 24 01 66 44 40 67 01 50 67 10 03 67 18 05 67 21 55 67 23 15 II.W. full and change. h. ni. 10 30 10 4.> •SS, •as. ft. 11 10 11 30 11 30 1 \(S 1 20 1 30 1 40 o 5 5 6 1 50 2 00 1 55 12 00 9 11 12 [I.W. .ss, 11 and *• .s .2 C lange. "(ft ft. 10 5 30 5 30 5 16 6 20 9 9 11 12 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE; NORTH SHOUE. 327 Place. Farticnlar Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West. H.W. Ailland change. .S 5^ V ,S River St. Lawrence ; North Shore. / »/ / n h. m. ft. Goodbout River - Trading post - 49 18 25 67 36 01 1 52 \ St. Nicholas Harbour Cross point - 49 18 26 67 46 34 1 55 — St. Nicholas Point - South extreme 49 15 47 67 50 01 — St. Giles Point Extreme 49 12 26 68 8 54 — I :% Manicouagon Point South-east extreme - 49 6 05 68 11 52 2 00 Bersimis River South point of en-"l ^g ^5 23 trance - - J 68 36 51 2 00 i;f Bersimis Point South extreme 48 53 57 68 38 26 — — i'i: Jeremy - Trading post - 48 52 45 68 46 43 — — Port Neuf - Church 48 37 17 69 5 50 2 10 — Tadousac (Sague-l nay River)- - J Store on beach 48 8 32 69 42 49 2 45 IT ■ -pi'' Chicoutimi(Sague- "1 nay River) - j Trading post - 48 26 05 71 4 48 5 11 \\ Isle aux Coudres - West point of La-l prairie bay - J 47 24 40 70 24 49 4 25 — Quebec North Bastion 46 49 00 71 12 46 6 38 iH .| Do. Wolf Monument 46 48 38 71 12 28 — — ■;:; Do. - ^?F .'**^^.^'?^'i 46 48 32 Bastion, Citadel > J 71 12 30 — -. . 1 ■ River St. Lawrence ; above Quebec. 1 St. Jean des Chaillona R. C. Steeple - - 46 33 23 72 7 06 — — Cap Madeline R. C. Steeple - 46 22 06 72 30 03 — — Three Rivers Easternmost Steeple 46 20 43 72 32 18 — — Point (\u Lac R. C. Steeple - 46 17 21 72 41 26 — ; p' Sorel - Episcopal Church - 46 2 42 73 6 57 — Repentigny - R. C. Steeple 45 44 28 73 26 56 — — Montreal - Light-house, Gate "| Island, North end j 45 30 22 73 33 14 — — Do, ■ ■ i ^ R. C, Cfttbedral 45 30 24 73 33 27 t 328 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE; SOUTH SHORE. Place. Particular Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West, n.w. full and change. .3 "> River St. Lawrence; South Shore. Cape Despair Gasp<3 Basin - Cape ijraspu - Cape Rozicr - Do. Great Fox Bay Mount Louis llivcr • Cape Chatto - Matan River - Metis - Camillo Mount Bamaby Island Bic Island Bicquette Island Bazade Rocks Green Island - Bed Island - Loup River - Brandy Pots - Kamouraska - Stone Pillar Island ■ Crane Island - Dauphin River, Orleans Isle ■:} Extreme - - - Sandy Point, N.W.I side of Narrow > entrance - - J Flower-pot Rock Extremity seen from "1 Capo Gaspc - j Lighthouse Centre of - - East point of entrance Extreme - - - Inner S.W. point of entrance '■} °!} Reef oif Little Metis Summit, 2,036 feet I above high water j springs - --' N.E. point N.E. extreme S.E. reef - Lighthouse N.E. rock Lighthouse Lighthouse N. point of entrance S. point of South rock N.E. point of Crowrl Island - - J Lighthouse Station on beach, ^^ mile S.W. of Mac- > pherson - J S.W. point of entrance o / // I O / ;/ 48 25 22 64 18 29 48 49 45 48 45 2 48 51 37 48 51 37 48 59 57 49 14 29 49 5 52 48 51 85 48 41 10 48 28 36 48 29 35 48 25 9 48 25 18 48 12 27 48 3 17 48 4 20 47 60 57 47 52 28 47 35 9 47 12 25 47 4 22 46 58 4 64 28 45 64 9 26 64 11 52 64 12 64 22 52 65 43 30 66 45 13 67 31 21 68 01 31 68 12 47 68 31 53 68 48 20 68 53 00 69 8 00 69 25 03 69 32 56 69 33 38 69 40 36 69 59. 36 70 21 36 70 31 10 70 50 41 h. m. 2 40 2 2 2 15 2 20 2 15 2 45 3 7 3 6 4 5 20 5 40 ft. 11 14 16 17 n.w. full and change. .S S) .r| Mcfi* Ii. m. 2 40 ft. 2 2 2 15 2 20 11 ^'r^'lll 2 15 2 45 3 7 3 6 4 5 20 5 40 14 16 17 GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE; SOUTH COAST. 329 Place. Particular Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West. H.W. fbll and change. Bisein Springs. Gulf op St. t -vrence ; South Coast. Macqucrau Point - N.E. extreme - o 1 n \ 48 12 18 Of// 64 46 11 h. m. 2 ft. 5 Port Daniel - N. side of West point 48 9 10 64 56 52 — — Paspebiac S. extreme of sandy"! spit, high Avater - j 48 46 65 14 15 2 45 — Ditto Episcopal churcli 48 1 47 65 15 03 — — Bonavcnturc Point - South extreme- 48 17 65 26 23 — — Carlton, or Traca- 1 digash Point - J N.W. extreme - 48 5 9 66 7 07 3 00 6 Dalhousio Island - East point 48 4 16 66 21 23 3 15 «i Black Rock - Station on it - 47 51 54 65 45 27 Bathurst Harbour - Mizzonette Point - Carrou point, E. side "1 of entrance - j Station - - - 47 39 19 47 50 2 65 36 56 64 58 40 3 15 7 Caraquetto Island - S.E. extreme of"! sandy spit - - j 47 49 19 64 51 42 2 40 6 Shippigan Harbour Falls Wharf - 47 44 52 64 42 09 3 40 6 Miscou Island Green Mound on N. "1 extreme - - J 48 1 29 64 31 44 2 30 — Ditto - Lighthouse 48 1 00 64 29 25 — — Shippigan GuUcy - N. side entrance 47 43 24 64 39 33 3 — Miramichi Bai du Vin island, "1 N.E. extreme - J 47 6 19 65 4 18 — — Ditto Ditto, S.W. extreme 47 5 65 6 46 5 PO 5 Ditto Mid. island, N.W."! extreme - - j 47 3 15 65 27 12 — — Escuminac Point - Lighthouse 47 4 32 64 47 33 4 10 — . Bichibucto River - Buctouche River - N. Beacon at entrance Station on Rocky "1 point at entrance j 46 43 4 46 26 55 64 47 48 64 38 01 irregu- lar. _ Cocagno Head Extremity of cliff - 46 21 31 64 31 57 »> — Shediac Island Station on Sandy "1 S.W. extreme - J 46 15 2 64 32 07 » — Sbediac Episcopal Church - 46 14 15 64 33 48 » , 330 CULF 01' ST. LAWRliNCi; ; SOUTH TOAST. Place. Tarticular Spot. Cape Tormcntino - Indian Point - Tignish Head, in "1 Bay Verto - J I'ugwash Point I'ugwash I'almcr Point, Wal- lace Harbour - } Araet Island - I'ictou Harbour i'ictou Island Ditto Mcrigomish Harbour Cape George - Antigonish Harbour Poraquet Island Gut of Canso North Point - West Point - Cape Egmont Fifteen Point Miscouche Seacow Head Carle ton Head Bedeque Harbour - Cape Truvorse N. W. extreme o J the 1 Joureman Islands j Station on extreme - Station . - - High water extreme - Episcopal church - High water extreme East extreme - Lishthouso Station, sandy point, S. side } Lighthouse, East end Point BottyOlding is- "1 land, S.E. extreme j Station in Ballen- tine Cove - N. beacon S.E. extreme - } Lighthouse, North "I entrance - - J PuiNCE Edward Extreme of cliff High water extreme - Station on extreme - R. C. church steeple- Ditto Station on extreme - On extreme of cliff - Green's wharf - Station on extreme 1 of cliff - - J / // 46 10 6 46 6 >6i 46 28 45 52 45 45 51 14 45 49 19 45 50 15 45 41 25 45 48 21 45 49 50 45 38 29 45 51 49 45 41 49 45 39 17 45 41 42 Island. 47 3 41 46 37 14 46 24 11 46 23 31 46 26 4 46 19 46 15 4 46 23 32 46 13 17 Longitude Weit H. W. f\iU and change. 1 II h. m. 63 49 23 10 63 46 10 64 1 15 10 30 63 40 03 10 30 63 39 34 — 63 25 26 10 30 63 9 56 — 62 39 26 10 62 33 10 — 02 30 10 — 02 26 40 10 6 61 54 48 9 i5 61 53 12 9 61 44 21 9 15 61 2'i 58 9 15 63 59 19 64 23 16 64 07 55 64 01 55 63 51 50 63 48 30 63 42 15 63 47 26 63 39 07 -- ft. 6 H 4 4 ^ 3 30 6 30 9 45 10 00 — r. w. Ill and hange. .Si h. m. ft. 30 30 30 6 9 15 9 9 15 9 15 J 30 > 30 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 331 4 4 I 45 ► 00 Place, Particular Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West. H.W. Ml and change. 1 St. Peters Island - : Station South-west i extreme • - J O 1 It \ 46 6 59 1 O 1 II 63 11 45 h. m. ft. Charlottetown Flagstaff on fort 46 13 55 63 07 23 10 45 9i EUiot River - Novon point - 46 12 24 68 19 41 — — Hillsborough River- Portage station 46 20 25 1 1 62 56 31 — — I'rim Point - Lighthouse 46 3 10 1 63 2 06 10 Wood Islands Eastern extreme ofl Westernmost island J 45 57 8 I 62 44 47 9 45 — Cape Bear Station on high rock 46 18 62 27 10 9 G George Town Har- i hour - - i Gaudicn Point 46 10 53 62 31 59 8 40 5 Fanmure Island Lighthouse 46 8 47 62 27 40 — Boughton Island - South-east extreme - 46 10 54 62 23 30 — — Dean Point - Station - - - 46 20 55 62 10 44 — — East Point - Station on extreme \ of cliff - - / 46 27 15 61 57 58 8 30 3? Savage Harbour - Station on Coffin point 46 26 7 62 51 20 8 30 4 St. Peters Harbour- Sand hill, Eastern \ side of entrance j 46 26 44 62 44 12 8 30 4 Tracadie Harbour - Grand Rustico Eastern point of en- ' trance Western point of en- ' trance - - J 46 24 51 46 27 27 63 2 00 63 17 09 7 6 40 , , Cape Turner - Northern extreme 46 29 51 63 19 10 6 10 Grenville Harbour - High sa:- hill near"! entrance - - / 46 30 50 1 63 27 45 6 10 3^ Richmond Bay Bunbury Island in i Richmond Bay - J Station on Royalty"! point - - - J North-cast extreme - 46 33 55 46 32 8 63 42 06 63 46 44 6 8 17 3 St. Eleanors - Episcopal church 46 25 18 63 48 23 — Cascumpeque Har- 1 bour - - J Beacon, North side! of entrance - J 46 48 16 64 2 15 5 40 3 Ditto - Lighthouse 46 48 22 64 2 15 — — Cape Kildare - Station ou extreme - 46 52 57 63 58 00 — — T_ ;'( ., -^m 332 CAPE BRETON ISLAND. Place. Torticular Spot. I^tif.de North. lion^itud Wuit. II. W Aill and change. Cape Breton Island; South Coast. Michaux Point L'Ardoisu - St. IVtcr IhIiiimI St. Peter Bay Grandc-diguo Point )^ in Lennox Pussngc J Arichnt Plurbour - Ditto Ditto Ditto Station on cxtromo - R. C. church steoplo - South-west oxtremo - Old fort on West aide "I of liaulovcr - J Madame Island. Station Observation Station - Jorseyinan ishmd, 1 North extreme - / R. C. church Htecplo - Lighthou8e,Marache 1 point - - J 4o 34 11 45 3(1 45 45 35 54 45 39 21 O / // 60 41 00 60 45 59 60 48 39 60 52 04 h. m. 8 00 7 43 45 35 49 45 30 21 45 30 25 45 30 48 45 29 2 Cape Breton Island; South and West Coasts. .9 t Mi ft. 5 61 1 11 7 55 61 3 06 — 61 3 07 8 10 61 1 47 — 61 1 52 — ^ Bear Head - Plaster Cove M'Kcen Point Port Hood - Ditto - Sea Wolf Island Ditto Chetican Point Cape St. Lawrence Cape North - Station on extreme - Station near North"! end of Bridge - J Station on extreme - Station, Smith I. Harbour light at South entrance North extreme Lighthouse on sum- mit - - - South extreme - North extreme - North extreme - -} } 45 33 5 45 38 56 45 38 51 46 57 46 46 22 3 46 21 30 46 36 22 47 2 54 47 2 35 61 17 05 •— — 61 23 36 9 10 4i 61 23 54 — .^ 61 33 40 9 ^ 61 31 40 — — 61 15 07 — — 61 15 33 — — 61 2 58 8 15 3i 60 35 36 — — 60 24 56 -. — . CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 333 H. W Aill and change. Rise in Springs. Place. rartlcula; Spot. Lutltude North. Longitndo West. II.W. full and change. Cape Breton Island ; Nouth-East and South-Eaht Coasts. M h. m. ft. 8 00 6 > II O / II h. m. ft. __ . Cape Egmont - East extreme • 46 51 1 60 18 03 8 — — Inganish Archibald Point 46 41 31 60 21 18 8 12 4 7 43 — St. Anno Harbour - Station on Beach 1 point - - - J 46 17 31 60 32 25 8 34 5i 1 Carey Point - West side of entrance 1 of Great Bras d'orj 46 17 41 60 24 50 7 30 3 1 Cunet Point - Station near extreme 46 20 32 60 17 16 — _ 7 55 ^ Sydney Harbour LiKhthouse on Flat! Point - - - J 46 16 12 60 7 22 — — 8 10 H Ditto - Ditto - Station on South- 1 cast Bar - - j Shingle point, oppo- "1 site the town - J 46 12 25 46 8 21 60 12 40 60 12 05 8 15 8 15 3J 5 Table Hrad - Station on extreme - 46 13 14 59 57 04 — — i Flint Island - Static n - 46 10 55 59 46 01 — — ) 1 Ditto Lighthouse on N.E. 1 end - - - J 46 11 05 59 45 50 — — 1 Scatari Island Lighthouse 46 2 13 59 40 18 — — j. — Menadou Harbour - Station - - - 46 29 59 49 58 8 15 H r 9 10 n Cape Breton - Station on extreme - 45 5? 14 59 47 03 — — 1 Gabarus Bay - Church on Cape - 45 49 07 60 5 03 — 9 H Louisburg Lighthouse 45 54 34 59 57 15 8 00 5 — - Cape Breton Island; In the Buas d'or Lake. Man of War Point - Station 46 11 20 60 33 00 ,,i,,. ,- — , :<' 15 H Boulardrio Island - Station on Kemp i head - - j 46 4 33 60 39 45 — i _ Grove Point - Station 46 13 36 60 20 36 — ^ 1 1 — — Kelly Point East side, entrance 1 of Strait of BarraJ 45 57 40 60 47 35 — ! i; 1 K 334 NOVA SCOTIA ; SOUTH-EAST COAST. Place. Particular Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West. H.W. full and change. .3^ si" Indian, or Chapel 1 Island - - J Cross Station - o 1 H 45 43 13 o / // 60 46 55 h. m. Tides ft. St. Peter Station on hill, "j North-east side of > Haulover - - J 45 39 30 60 51 47 not observ- Red Island - Head of E. Bay - Spanish River North extreme Last station Forks bridge - 45 48 35 46 1 55 46 4 11 60 46 18 60 21 19* 60 16 50 able within Malagawatcht Point Station on extreme - 45 52 17 60 54 36 the N. side of W. Bay - New Station, near 1 North Mountain J 45 50 22 60 59 24 Strait Ditto - Ballam Head Station on Calder 1 hill - - -/ Station - - - 45 45 28 45 42 36 61 10 16 61 6 57 of Barra. JNTorrison Head Station ... 45 46 23 60 53 49 Nova Scotu ; Halifax - - - Halifax Harbour - Mars Head - Sambro Island Devil Island • Laurenceton Head - Grahams Head Story Head - Perpisawick Head - Jcdore Head - Jedore Rock - Jedore Harbour Egg Island - Ship Harbour } South-East Coast. Dock Yard Observa tory - Lighthouse Maugher I beach - - / Station on extremity Lighthouse Lighthouse Station on summit - Station on summit - Station on summit - Station on summit - Station on point Station on centre Station on Marsh point Station near centre - Islet near Salmon "1 Point - -J — Halifax to Gut of Canso. 44 39 38 44 36 6 44 26 16 44 26 11 44 34 48 44 38 34 44 37 44 44 40 11 44 40 48 44 40 22 44 39 49 44 43 19 44 39 55 44 47 00 63 35 10 7 49 63 31 55 — 63 43 27 — 63 33 42 63 27 27 — 63 21 10 — 63 16 58 7 30 63 13 06 — 63 9 25 63 2 49 63 32 — 63 14 7 45 62 51 44 — 62 48 58 7 54 61 6i >/ ; ^'tti I NOVA SCOTIA ; SOUTH-EAST COAST. 335 l| H.W. fuUand change. Place. Particular Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West H.W. ftilland change. if '■' h. m. Tides ft. Ship Harbour (out- "1 side) - - J Station on Day point / tf 44 45 38 o t " 62 47 50 h. m. ft. 1 :" not Charles Island Station 300 fathoms T west of Bogle bluff/ 44 46 03 62 43 31 1 ' )b8erv- able Pope Harbour Harbour Island, "^ North-east ex- > treme - -J 44 47 51 62 38 45 7 40 61 ,.;] (vithin Taylor Head - Station on summit - 44 47 25 62 32 43 7 40 1 ' 1 the Strait Sheet Harbour Station a quarter of "j a mile N.W. from > Watering Cove - J 44 54 11 62 30 12 8 6 1 6| of Barra. Beaver Harbour - Station on hill 44 52 18 62 25 17 7 40 6i Salmon River Station on Breading 1 point - - - J 44 54 16 62 23 18 — 1 < 1 ; Salmon River Station 100 fathoms 1 west of wharf - J 44 54 32 62 23 08 — ■ • 1 * 1, 1 1 i i.l 3ANS0. 7 49 6 Beaver Island Mary Joseph Har- ") hour - - J Liscomb Harbour - Lighthouse Lobster point extreme Spanis-ship point, ^ station, near Pyes > Wharf - -J 44 49 34 44 57 53 45 28 62 20 13 62 04 31 62 43 8 '1 "" ■ .1'! — — St. Mary River Station 700 fathoms"! above Episcopal > Church - -J 45 6 12 61 57 42 8 6 I. — Wedge Island Beacon - - - 45 36 61 52 22 — '■' •■. — — HoUins Head Station on summit - 45 4 20 61 44 32 — 'j 7 30 ■"" Country Harbour - Station opposite 1 Widow point - J 45 14 42 61 46 41 8 45 6^ — — Isaac Harbour Red head, station on "1 summit - - J 45 9 39 61 38 27 7 40 6| 7 45 H Harbour Island Station on north- "1 east point - - j 45 8 25 61 36 18 7 40 6i ; _ Green Island - Station, north side - 45 6 23 61 32 35 i "~~ — 7 K A ^ t Newharbour Head - Station on Nob 45 9 7 61 27 56 — — J 04 oj Shag Reef - Station on Rock 45 10 17 61 21 07 ' — . 336 NOVA SCOTIA ; SOUTH-EAST COAST. ft Place. Particular Spot. Latitude North. Longitude West. H.W. full and change. Bise in Springs. Berry Head - Station on extreme - 45 11 37 / II Gl 18 33 h. m. ft. White Haven Observation station"! in Marshal Cove - J 45 14 37 61 11 18 8 6i White Head Island - Lighthouse 45 11 58 61 8 2 — — Dover Island - Station on hill - 45 14 11 61 2 57 — — Canso Harbour R. C. steeple - 45 20 10 60 59 00 — — Canso Harbour Station on Cutler \ Island south-east > extreme - - J 45 20 42 60 59 02 7 48 6i Ditto R. C. church steeple - 45 20 10 60 59 00 — — Cranberry Island - Lighthouse 45 19 49 60 55 29 — — Crow Harbour Station near entrance 45 21 6 61 15 29 8 6 Guysborough Har- 1 hovac - -) Station on Hadley"! beach - - j 45 23 4 61 29 00 8 20 6^ Ditto - Lighthouse, western "1 side of entrance - j 45 22 47 61 29 11 — Cape Argo3 - Station on summit - 45 2^ 10 61 13 33 — — Eddy Point, Gut of) Canso - - J Lighthouse 45 31 29 6 14 42 — — Sable Island - West flagstaif - 43 56 24 60 2 50 7 30 4 Ditto - West extreme of 1 grassy sand hills- J 43 5Q 44 60 8 31 — — Ditto - East extreme of do. - 43 58 57 59 45 3£ — The longitude of Halifax Dockyard Observatory, by Captain Shortland, R.N., and Professor Bond with the Electric Telegraph, is as follows : — h. m. 8. Cambridge Observatory Massachusetts - - 4 44 30'6 West Meridian Diistunce to Halifax by Telegraph - - 30 09*55 East 4 14 21-0 West, or Halifax Dockyard Observatory 63° 35' 15" West, which differs only 5" from the longitude in this list. H.W. ull and hange. Bise in Springs. h. m. ft. 8 ^ 7 48 6i 8 6 8 20 7 30 ^ rtland, !St ast !8t, Tovs only 337 The Variation of the Compass at various places on the shores of the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, determined in the years 1857-1860, by Commander Orlebar, RN. Place. Variation. West. Tear. Belle-isle - - Lark harbour 1 37 12 1859 Strait of Belle-isle - St. Charles harbour - 40 15 — Henley harbour, Chateau bay } 38 38 — Red bay - 37 34 — Bradore hai-bour - - 35 37 — North and West coasts of Newfoundland f Kirpon or Quirpon \ \ harbour - - J 37 05 — Flower cove - 36 52 ""^ Cow Head - - 33 32 — Cape Ray - 27 37 1856 a.t of Labrador - Wapitagun harbour - 32 17 1859 Kegashka bay 3107 — East Cape, Anticosti island 27 12 — Cape Breton island - Sydney harbour - 24 40 1857 Louisburg harbour 24 38 1858 Gabarus bay 23 56 — Prince Edward island Charlottetown 22 50 1859-60 Miramichi bay - - Vin island - 21 24 1857 River St. Lawrence - Quebec 15 34 1859 The present annual increase in the Variation is about 4' in the River St. Lawrence ; 5' to 6' on the coasts of Nova Scotia; 6' in the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; and 7' on the coasts of Newfoundland and Bell-isie strait. The general direction of the lines of equal Variation in the River St. Lawrence and on the coasts of Nova Scotia is, N.W. ^ W. and S.E. ^ E. (true); Gulf of St. Lawrence, N.W. bv W. and S.E. bv E.; Newfoundland and Belle-isle strait, N.W. hy W. ^ W. and S.E. by E. ^ E. [ST. L.] — VOL. I. 1' I ■!:■;-• ' -r I V ^ -- • ■■ -■* . : ■■ ■' I •■ { ^ ( , 1'" • ■- - " • j 1 1 1 1 i "■ * •--■•. f .' 339 INDEX. ii;;i'! ll 'i--; Abbttis - Agwanus basin ■ riTer Ah-ah bay Aid islet Aigle cape - Airey cape Alcide rock Abight cape -^^— island reef Amberst barbour - , bar ~, pilot island , ancborage Ammonite point Amour point - ,ligbt Ance & la Cabane Anchor island - reef Andre, St., bank churcb point -, water Page - 293 - 191 •■ 188, 191 - 303, 309 - 169 - 294 - 169, 171 - 100, 103 - 60 - 56, 59 - 60 56, 57, 61, 62 - 62 - 62 55,56,61,64 - 64 - 198 - 126, 132 . 133 - 56, 64 - 56, 64 - 149, 150, 196, 197 - 149 - 249, 256 - 249 - 249 - 63 - 300 - 251, 257 251, 256, 257, 276 - 49, 92 - 300 Andromacbe rocks Ange Gardien church Anne, St, bay - , buoy , cape , church N. shore - , church and village, S. shore 250 , mountains - - - 92 , river - - 93, 312 ■ 251, 256 - 123 • 123 - 123 • 32, 68-81 , shoals Antelope harbour Anticosti island — , directions — , ledges Pafe-e Anticosti island, anchorages - 72, 74, 75, 78,80 ; aspect of coast 69, 73, 74 , banks off X. coast - 33 , caution - - 74 , climate . . 70 , currents - 22, 34, 80 , direction bonrds - 71 , exports - - 70 , fisheries - - 70 , lights 32, :)5, 70, 74, 77 , passage N. of - 33-35 , , currents 34 , , S. of - 35 , , caution 35 , productions - - 69 , provision posts - 71 , rivers - - 70 ,S.W. point 32,35,50,70.74 , , light 32, 35, 70,74 , tides - - 80 , variation - - 14 , W. point 35, 70, 71, 77 , light 35,71,77 to Point de Monts 36-38 - 166 • 192 43, 44, 104, 106 - 98, 101 Antrobus point Appeetetat bay Apple island Arignole cape and reef Atlantic cove Audubon islets point rocks - 51 - 182 . 182 - 182 - 159 41, 226, 227 - 41 — , harbour - - 138 , fishing esta- blishment - - 138 T 2 Augustine, St., chain , cove - , pilots ;!!IM 340 INDEX. Augustine, St., port - , river , wood Aylmcr sound Pago - 159 - 159 - 159 1C3, 169 Bad bay Bague island light Balance cape Bare rock - rocks Barge bay - ■' point Barnaby island - ———, shoal road Barometer, marine Barque cove Bar reef • Barret ledges Barrier point — — — reefs Barthelemi, St, Isle Basin, (Coacoacho bay) , (Magdalen islands) - 121 - 313 - 93 - 97 - 174, 175 - 129 - - 129, 130 39, 9C, 97, 102, 287 - 97 - 97 - 18-21 - 308 258, 305, 306 • 245, 246 - 123 124, 144-140 - 308 - 181 - 64 Bason river . - - 210, 213 Basque cape ... 259 harbour (Magdalen island) 65 island - 43, 104, 105, 106, 107 - 105 -, hole - -, reefs ■ 105 , rock - - 106 .-, spit - - - 105 islands (Seven Islands bay) - 216 road - - . 259, 263 anchorage 259, 263, 305, 307 Battle harbour - - 109,116,117 — fishing station - 109 islands - 110,115. 116, 117 .Middle ditto - 117 , north 110, 111, 112, 114, 116, lie. , south-east - - 117 Bauld cape - - - - 126 Bay of Rocks - 165,166,245,240,269 Beacon hill - - - - 122 islet - - - 148, 174 reefoif - - - 175 Bear bay - - - - 78 — — — anchorage - - - 78 Bear bay water head - — — liver Beai^jeu bank Pajre - 78 - 78 - - 78 - 267, 274-279 ■ channel S. of • 274, 275 . , buoys - 275 , caution - 275 - . , tides - 275 -, to pass N. of - 278, 279 ., at night 278 -, with beat- ing winds - - 278 -, to pass S. of Beaumont church mill — — reefs or shoals Beauport bank - Becscie river Belle Chasse island river Belle-isle - 277 - 282 - 282 282, 290 - 287, 290 - 75 - 272, 281, 282, 283 . 281 - 14, 125, 126 . . 126 - 50, 126-135 . 128-133 22, 23, 128 . 135 light - Strait , anchorage , current , fisheries , ice , navigation in fogs , not recommended , soundings , tides 60, 128 - 128 - 60 - 127 - 127 , variation - - 14, 336 Belles Amours harbour - 139, 141-143 . ^ , anchorage - 143 ~, directions 142, 143 , water - 142 point 139, 141. 142. 143 Bergeron coves - - - 46, 239 Little - - 238,239 Bersimis point - 27, 38, 42, 233, 235 , shoal off of - - 42 -, tides ■ river , bar , falls - Berthier, Trou de Betchewun harbour - - 235 - 38, 234 - 234 - 235 - 281 - 195-197 > directions - 196-197 ', inner - - 197 .tides - - 197 ', water and wood 195 INDEX. 341 Pige - 78 - 78 - 78 274-279 274, 275 1 - 275 >n - 275 - 275 278, 279 [ht 278 «at- - 278 - 277 - 282 - 282 282, 290 287, 290 - 75 282, 283 ■ 281 125, 126 • 126 126-135 128-133 !, 23, 128 - 135 50, 128 - 128 - 60 - 127 - 127 14, 336 141-143 - 143 142, 143 - 142 142. 143 46, 239 238, 239 233, 235 - 42 - 235 38, 234 - 234 - 235 • 281 195-197 195-197 - 197 - 197 Dd 195 Pago Bic channel • - . 101-104 anchorages - 101-103 island - - 25, 40, 44, 98-105 — , inner passage — , soundings — , tides — , water — , vest grounds Old, harbour • , road - Bicoques islets Bicquette channel - - 40 . 44 - 103, 104 - 98 - - 100 - 97 - - 97 - 97 - 99, JOO - 100, 103 02, 103,105 .\\. , S.E. .jO, 101,102, 103 , S.W - 103 island 26, 38, 39, 40, 43, 99-105 , caution - - - 40 , light - - 38, 39, 99 , N.W. reef 39, 40, 99, 238 , to pass - - 39, 40 , reefs - 39, 40, 99 ■ to Green island - 43-45 Bird rocks - 23,31,32,52,53,55 , bank of soundings - 31,53 , caution - - - 53 , Great, or S.E. - 31, 53, 55 -, Little, or N.W. - to Anticosti - 53 32, 33 - 146 127, 131 - 132 112, 113 - 112 - - 118 - 125 - - 174 - 123 111, 112, 136, 171 - 259 123, 124 Blanc Sablon bay - - - 133 , fishing establish- ment - Bis islet . . • Bhck bay shoal Fly island , anchorage Blackhil! island Blackjoke cove Black ledge point reef - river - - - rock (Antelope harbour) Blaskowitz point Blubber cove Bluff head Boat islands 135 213 140 161 172 Bold islet Tock Bonaventure island • — ■ — ■ — — current Bondesir cape - Bonne Esperancc bay harbour tions Boot point - Boule ba islan. • islet Boulet islet soundings Bourchervillc islands place) Boussier bay Bowen rocks Boyer river Bradore bay harbour hills Branche cape Brandy Pots bank - , anchorage chancel tides to the Traverse Pkfte - - 167 148, 149, 174 > 83 - - 28 - 46, 238 - 147-151 138, 147-151 direc- - 148-151 water and wood - 148 island • 148, 149, 150 - 170 ■ 216 - 216 - 160 - 152, 156 • 156 (wintering - 314 - 175,176 - 34, 194 - 282 - 137, 138, 139 - 134, 139-141 ■, anchorage - - 140 ', aspect of coast - 141 , directions - - 140 , fishing establishment 138 , tides - - - 141 , water - - 140 - 137 - 297 - 44, 48, 243-257 - 244 '\i Breaking ledge Brothers Brulc banks , cul de sac cape Bryon island -, reefs -, soundings -, water Buchan point — — river - 244 - 252 - 301 256, 257 - 148 - 285 - 295 - 295 - 295 31, 53, 54 - 54 - 54 - 54 - 213 - 213 % 342 INDEX. Buoys and beacons - Burnt cape ledge island - Burt's buoy and nipper Bute de Portage hill ■ Sonde hill - Cabane bay Pa«o - 31fi-321 - 268, 295 - 249, 256 - 14 - 66 > 60 , water Cacarde river Cacona beacon — — — church peninsula — rock - 56, 64 - 56, 64 - 308 - 243 - 243 - 247 - 247 Calumet river - - • 225 Camille mount - - 46, 96, 101 Camp islands, inner and outer - 120 Canard river ... 259 Capuchin cove - - • 94 Caribou channel - - - 115 ,— —, narrows of - 115 , Great,i8land 110,114,115, 116,117 , Little, island - - 115,116 , N. coast - 146 — — . , point - - 41, 225 - '■■ - , pilots - - 41 Carleton point - - - - 78 Caronge point - - - 310 , anchorage - - 310 Carousel island - - -216,220 Carrol cove ... 131 Castle island - - 121, 122, 129 ledge - - - 121 CatheHne, St., bay - - - 306 Cat rocks - - - 166, 168 Caution, 30, 35, 36, 74, 164, 210, 214, 216 Cawee bay - - . - 222 , anchorage ... 222 , directions - - 221, 222 , Great, island - 220, 221 , large rocks - 221 , cove - - - 221 , shoal - - 121 , Little islands - - 220, 221 , tides - 222 , watev - 221 , ledge - - - 221 , rock - - - 221 Centre reef - - - 174, 175 sand (N. traverse) - - 298 Chain islands Chaleur bay ■ cape Champlain village Channel patch light Charles harbour -, beacon and buoy directions - island -, St., bay , cape - , channel , harbour - , anchorage , directions , fishing station 109, 1 19 , hill - - - 118 , island - - - 118 , point - - 210,214,314 —, — ,reef - - - 214 Page - 148 - 82 - 83 - 312 - 311 271, 277 - 271 • 198 • 199 - 197 - 119 • 118 - 119 109, 118 • 119 - 118 , caution - - 214 , river - 114,119,287 , water and wood - 119 Chasse point ... 217 Chateau bay ... 109, 121 point ... 122 • Richet church - - 300 Chatte cape - - 27, 36, 49, 89, 93 - river Chaudi^re river Chicoutimi river - 93 - 288, 310 - 309 - 304 - 303, 309 - 120 - 133 - 92 - 193, 190 • 193, 199 172, 283, 285 - 137 - 184 - 114, 115 - 168 - 181-184 - 182, 184 . 182 - 184 - 183 Coast, aspect of, 69, 73, 77, 93, 137, 157, 180, 188,310,357 ', tides trading post Chimney Tickle channel Clair, St., bay Clande river Clear Water point - ■ shoals Cliff islands Climate Cloudberry point Club cape Cluster point Coacoacho bay , breakers , directions , tides ■ river INDEX. 343 Page - 148 - 82 - 83 - 312 - 311 J71, 277 - 271 Cock cove anchorage Cod banks Cod fishery Coffin island ... Collins' shoal (Anticosti) • (Mingan island) (N. coast) Colombier cape - Columbine shoals Corbeau cape Cormorant cape islets point (Anticosti) •— (Labrador) Pa«e - 96 • 96 . 188 - 138 57,59 - 34 - 195 - 188 - 42, 236 - 58 261, 292, 293 - 213 Coudres bank — — ^— island Cove island point - Crab island Craig point Crane island - 213 - 35, 72 - 176 • reef - - - 213 •rocks - -176,177 - 295 - 252, 261, 293 - 173, 175 . 166 - 153 - 169 - 267,270,272,274 -.beacons - - 272,276 -, spit - - - 284 -to Quebec - 281-292 Crescent point Crocodile islet Croix point , St., light - Crooked islands Cross point Crow island Crumb island Cumberland harbour -, anchorages -, directions -, tides -, directions -, water ■ island 290 - 289 - 291 - 170 - 183 - 218 - 311 - 222 229, 230 249, 281 . 152 - 158 - 158 - 158 - 158 185, 188 - 23 Curlew point - Currents affected by tides ■ and tides 22-29, 34, 67, 80, 136 , effects of - 42, 43, 49 Cutter harbour - - - 114 reefs - . - 174 Dauphin point — — — river Dead cove Deadmau islet -, rocky fishing reef rock Deer harbour water — .— point Demoiselle hill Denis, St, point Descente des Fcmmes cove Despair cape Deviation Diable bay cape Diamond harbour Dickson islands Directions, general 30-50, Diver islet Dog islands -, soundings rocks Dogs, cape Douglas roadstead town , water Doyle islands reef Dukes i:;,land Durantaye point Dyke island - 897 - 297 - 162 - 64, 66 ground 64 - 64 - 55 - Ill - Ill - Ill - 56, 60, 61 • 250 - 308 - 82 - 14 - 132 - 127, 250 . 288 - 170 154, 253-257, 276, 289, 314. • 155 . 147, 152 - 156 • 152 - 259 - 86 - 84, 85, 86 - 86 - 170 - 32,67 . 158 - 282 • 163, 164 Daly island 167 Eagle cape (Anticosti) - - 75 , St. Lawrence, N. shore 259 , S. shore 248 , harbour - - - 169 East cape (Anticosti) - - 33,72,80 • (Saguenay river) - - 308 — island - - - 86 point - - - - 57 rocks - - "• - 216 Eastern island ... 193 Eboulemenc bay - 257, 259, 260, 292, 294 . mount - - 245,361 settlement - - 292 Echafaud islet - • 269 Eden islands ... - 166 •;:'ii \'iL 111 i i^;i- , l|!.: hi liiiiil m 344 INDEX. ii i Egg island , anchorage , current , directions , reefs , tides , water — — rocks - — — trade Eider group Ellis bay , directions , tides , -vratcr Emery island ■ rocks English bank bay ■ point Pagn - 233-225 - 224 - 29 - 225 - 223 • 225 - 224 - 159 - 138 - 152 - 71, 75-77 - 76 . 77 - 76 • 182 - 182 - 242,251 • 38, 230, 231 223, 224, 225 Enter islet - • -155 Entrance island - - - 164 Entry, Qrand, harbour - • 57, 59 , pilot - 59 Entry island - - 31,56,60,63,65 - 63 - 63 - 238 - 238 138, 150, 151 fishing establishment - 138 I — — channel - - - 150 - harbour - 200,201-203 ' , directions - 201, 202 , tides - - 203 ' — — , water - - 201 , (Anticosti) - 80 , (Labrador) 146, 151 , (Mingan islands) 200 , , current 28 island - - 150,151 river - - - 151 (trading post - 151 Estuary - - 27,38,233,239 , below Point de Monts - 49, 50 , caution , directions down , up Esquamine islets Esquimaux bay -, anchorage -, supplies -, tides Etamamu fishing establishment - river Etang du Nord islet - • Eternity cove - 49 - 48-50 - 37-48 138, 176 - 176 - 65, 66 - 308 Eticnnc, 8t, bay , river Fair island - Fall harbour — river - Famillc, St., church - Father point , anchorage Pico . 308 . 308 . ISO - 114 . 213 - 300 27, 39, 41, 46, 96 . 46 bank of soundings current , light , pilots Felspar point Ferolle, Old, harbour FeroUe point Fin rocks - - - Fishflaku island Fish harbour - , 2 feet rock ■. , fishing and trading establishment - 39,40 • 27 - 96 41,96 - iia - 127 - 126 - 166 - 118 138, 160 • 160 160 187 148 Fishing banks Fish islet , Little harbour, fishing esta- blishment • - -138 Five fathoms patch - - 129 leagues harbour - 141, 144, 145 i ■— — , directions - 145 point - - 143, 145 , hill - - 144 Flat island , current 28, 84, 161, 313 - 28 islands rocks Flint island light Flower ledge Flowerpot columns rock - Foam rock Fogs Fort bay rocks Fortea'i bay • 123 - 141 - 30 - 127 - 204 - 84, 89 - 117 - 16, 128, 129 - 151 - 151, 152 - 126, 127, 1S2 , anchorage - -133 , fishing establishments - 133 -, point - - - 132 .river - - - 132 Fort, Old, bay - - - 138 , chauQel •. - - 152 INDEX. 345 - ISO - 114 - 213 - 300 , 46, 96 - 46 39,46 • 27 - 96 41,96 - 112 - 127 - 126 - 166 - 118 38, 160 - 160 - 138 - 129 14, 145 • 145 i3, 145 ■ 144 1,313 • 28 123 ' 141 30 127 204 B4, 89 117 9, 129 151 1, 152 M'«2 133 133 132 132 138 152 Pmto Fort, Old, island • • 147,152,156 , soundings - -ISO Foul rocli - Four fitthoms ridge - rocks Fox bay - , Anchorage Gt river -, supplies liarbour -, directions -, water - - 108 - 21! • 153 34,71,70,80 - 80 - 90, 91 - 91 - 110 - 110 • 110 - 159 - 79 . 04 — islands point - - - — reefs . . - Fran^ais, St., Church (Orleans isle) 285, 297 Francis, St., Port, light - - 311 Fright channel - - - 200 islanU - 199, 200, 202, 203 Gammche house river - , water Garde rock Gaspe basin -, tides -, water — bay •, aspect of coast -, caution -, fishing establishments -, soundings -, winds - - 75 - 75, 76 - 76 - 195 85, 88, 89 - 88 - 88 - 84-90 - 89 cape — — harbour , directions , Little Gaze point - Genevieve, St., harbour 85 - 89 - 89 26, 84-90 23, 86-88 - 87 - 85 . 260 195-197 -, directions ^entilly village 195-197 wood and water - 195 -, island - 34, 193-197 , dangers 34, 193 , tides - 197 -, mount - - 194 • 312 I'ago George, 8t., covo - - - 85 George, St., cove, fishing establish- ment - - 85 Giles, St., point - - 227, 230, 231 Qoddard islet - — rock - Goodbout river —~; anchorage , bar , directions Goose cape town anchorage island -, reef Gore islands Goufre river Grand Entry harbour -, pilots - island Metis bay river . 147, 149 ■ 148, 149 45, 227, 228 - 228 - 46, 227 • 228 ■ 228 - 200, 201 - 261 - 271,273 - 209, 273 • 166 - 293 - 57, 59 - 69 - 150 - 95 - 95 point (Belle-isle strait)l27, 134, 139 reef - - 134, 139 Grande Jrove - - - 85 islands - 247, 249, 250, 256 , beacons - 245, 247 Matte river - - - 92 Grange rock - - - 182 Great stone - - - 177 Green island - 25, 43, 96, 100, 199, 201, 246, 253 , anchorage - - 247 , beacon - 47, 242, 253 , lighthouse 43, 46, 106, 239, 243, 253 — '. , reef 39, 44, 105-107, 246,256 , road - - - 107 , tides - - 107, 247 , weighing from - 255 , (Kegdshkabay) - 186 — . to ilrandy Pots - 253-256 . at night 254 in beat- ing winds 255 Greenish bay - - - 129 point - -129,131 Greenly island - 126, 133, 134, 136 , cove - - 134 , fishbg establishment - 134 'i!* liii^ iiii ;ii:! 346 INOBX. Greenly iiland, rocky patch Grenville point - Gruve, graode Gribanne cape - ■ landing - Griffin cove — — river , auppliit - Grinditone island - Orondine Gro« Cap - - - GroMo island PsKo • 194 • - laa 65 . • 993 • 393 • • 90 • 90 - - 90 56, 59, 60, 61 • 311 • 65, 66 283, 284, 285 tail isle (Magdalen islands) patch - - - buoy rock Gulnare shoal Gun island -, quarantine anchorage - 284 -.quarantine establishment 284 ■ 285 - 56, 66 - 284 ■ 284 • 261 ■ 134 199, 200 - 162 . 65 - 139 - 139 42, 236 195, 198 Oulch cove Gull island islet (Labrador) ■ (^.lagdalei) islands) ledge ... rock Ha-ha bay (Bic channel) (Labrador) - Haldimand cape Hamelle harbour Harbour island isle point Hare harbour , directions ■ , ■water and wood . 98 - 160 - 86 - 176 204, 207 - 131 • 142 . 166 166-169 - 169 island - 25, 242, 243, 244, 245, 256 , anchorage - - 245 , bank - - 242, 244 , reefs - - 243, 244 , water - - - 243 Harrington islands - - 169, 171 Harry, Old, head - - 67, 58 Haystack island - - 272, 283 Heath point ■ - - 32, 72, 81 , anchorage - - 72 , light - - 32, 35, 70 , reef - - 72,81 Henley harbour island Henney shoal Heron island Herriot isles Heu point • High beacon Cliff point Horn bay - , anchorage • Horse shoe - , white, reef. Hospital cape rock (Magdalen islands) ■■ (Goose island) Hotteurs river House harbour island • Itt 122, 123, 199 191 296 166 260 123 77 120 120 296 65. 66 65,66 ■ 65 - 274 - 213 - 57,59,61 - 140 Hudson Bay Company's trading posta 184, 185, 189, 19I, 207, 215, 217, 228, 236, 237, 3U3, 306, 309, 310 Hulk rock .... 206 Hunting island . . 34, 193, 195 , reef off . - 34 Ice . 15,30,128,135, Ignace, St., cape church Hot point ... Indian point Inner Camp island ^— channel islet ... Iroquois point Island harbour ■ ■ , anchorage Islet bay (Labrador) ■ , water church (St Lawrence, shore) Isthmus bay . — cove ., water Jean, St., bay church • nver Jeremy island 136,314 - 270 - 269 306, 307 • 196 - 120 153, 154 153, 154 . 250 - 161 - 161 . 120 - 120 S. 269, 279 - 114 . 144 - 145 - 308 269, 277 - 308 -286 INDRX. 347 POKO 199 Estus fy PMin • 311,913 - 311 • 813 • 986 ■ 66 176, 177, 178, 179 - 178 • 314 • . 988 - 989 • 156 - 28, 303, 204 . 98 . 304 . 931 . 135 135, 126, 148, 258, 305 - 305, 307 - 305, 307 - 258 • 958,305 - 9«8, 305 - M6, 937 237 . 236 - 282, 386 • 36-50 Leagues reef Leander shoal Ledge point Ledges island, rock, &c. Levi point —— , patent slip , shoal - directions down 48 up 37-48 , tides - 42, 49 - Gulf, close and opening of navigation - IS , directions across, and up the Estuary Ud-50, 353, 357, 276, 289, 314 -, point - - 383 -, River, currents, and tides - 23-29 Quebec to Mon- treal • 310-316 , anchorage 310 , directions 314 .lights - 311 - 144 - 82 - 196 - 139 - 282, 283, 988 - 288 - «87 (i ti : 348 INDEX. Levi reef - Lewis, St., Cape , inlet — ^- — , river , rock , sound Pago - 283 109-1 12, 135 110, 112,113 - 113 - 110 - 110-117 — ^— , directions - 110-117 , heavy sea in - 117 Lights, Amour point - - 133 , Anticosti island 32, 35, 70, 74, 77 ■ — , Heath point 32, 35, 70 — — , Anticosti island, S.W. point 32, 35, 70, 74 ,W. point 35, 70, 77 - 313 - 126 - 38, 39, 99 - 311 - , Bague island - , Belleisle -, Bicquette island -, Champlain - -, Croix, St. - - - 311 -, Father point - - 96 -, Flint island - - - 30 -, Francis, St., Port • - 31 1 -, Green island 43, 47, 106, 239, 242, 2.53 -, Heaih point - - 32, 35, 70 -, Langlais point - - 311 -, Magdalen cape - - 311 -, Ncuf, port - - 311 -, North, cape - - - 30 -, Paul, St., island - - 52 -, Peter, St., lake (2 vessels) 3i2, 313 -, Point de Monts - 36, 37, 219, 226 227 -, Fointe aux Trembles - 313 - 313 - 313 46, 242, 254 - 313 - 311 - 270 - 32, 90 - 30 - 273 - 31 - 242 - 313 - 148 - 148 - 312 - 153, 222 du Lac — , Baisin island -, Bed islet - -, Hepentigny -, Bichelieu islet -, lloquc, St (vessel) - -, Bozier, cape -, Scatari island -, Stone pillar island - -, Sydney harbour -, Traverse (vessel) -, Valtrie, La, island - Link islet - Lion island Livreur point Lobster bay Long island ledge point - river spit - Loon rocks - Louis, St, isle , rapid Louisa harbour Loup bank bay pomt - river river, anchorage , church Lou road Low islau(? rocks Pago - 159 - 178 • 206 - 188 - 57 - 184 - 308 - 313 - 170 - 170 - 248 - 128, 132 - 245, 246, 247, 248 - 247, 248 - 248 247, 256 - 170 - 118 - 183 directions - Macheux river Mackinnon cape Macpherson house Madame banks island 270, reef Magdalen capo -, light -, reef - islands -, anchorage -, climate -, directions -, population -, supplies -, tides -, water river , anchorage , current - -, tides Magnetic attraction of shore Magpie bay , anchorage pomt • river Maillard, cape Main channel - 286 - 169 274, 275, 278 - 285 268, 283, 285 - 286 • 91 - 311 - 91 31, 53, 55-68 - 67 - 55 - 67 - 56 - 56 - 67, 68 - 66 - 28, 91, 92 - 92 - 28 - 92 - 14, 210 • 211 - 211 - 211 ■ 210,211 - 293 - 150 INDEX. 349 Pago 159 178 206 188 57 184 308 313 170 170 248 8, 132 ^7, 248 i7, 248 - 248 7, 256 • 170 ■ 118 ■ 183 ' 286 ' 169 5,278 285 3,285 ' 286 ' 91 311 91 55-68 67 55 67 56 56 67,68 - 56 91,92 92 28 92 t, 210 211 211 211 }, 211 293 150 Mugor reef Mai bay Mai Liltle, bay Manicoaagon bay - ' peninsula Pa«e - 171 28, 83, 84, 260 - 260 - 231 - 231 point 27, 38, 231, 233, 234 , current - 27 river - - 38, 230-232 , anchorage - 231 , bar - - 232 , directions - 231 , falls - - 231 , tides - - 232 shoal - 38,231,232,233 , tidal streams - 232 - 212, 213 Manitou point . river river, anchorage Manowin island Maraud rocks Margaret island Margaret's tail Margaret, St., bay (Labrador) . , N. coast — , anchorage , directions , tides , point - , river Marguerite, St., river Mark point Marnham island Marsh island Martin cape , anchorage Martiniere point Mary, St., cliffs , islands , rapid , reefs -, rocks Massey's sounding machine - Matan , Little , settlement , Paps of . river , anchorage , pilots , supplies , tides 212, 213 - 213 - 216 - 287 - 283 284, 285 - 127 220-222 - 221 - 221 - 222 - 220 - 220 - 305 - 143 - Ill - 88 260, 261, 292 - 261 - 282 - 35, 75 - 172, 173 - 313 - 172,173 - 13G, 165 13, 33, 107 49, 93, 95 - 94 - 94 - 93 - 94, 95 - 95 - 94 - 94 - 95 Matte, Grand, river May islets Meadow island Mecattina, cape cove, little ■water harbour Fago - 92 - 220 • 88 160, 163-165 • 166, 169 - 166 - 161-163 , anchorage - 162 , directions - 162 , sealfishery - 1C2 , water and wood 162 highland - - 163 . island. Great - 22, 137, 160 .Little - 137,165,169 current - - 22 ■river. Little - - 105,169 152 152 310 95 95 95 95 95 95 - 60 - 120 - 36, 94 . 282 - 313 - 282 - 282 245, 256 141, 144 - 144 channel (Traverse) - 267 ground (S. Traverse) - 272 , shoals 272 island . - 281,283 Mermot islet , ledge Metabetshuan river Metis, Grand, bay , river , Little, bay , river point , fishing establishment - Meules cape Mica cove - - - Michaux cape Michel, St., bay , cape , church , point Middle bank (Hare island) . bay (Labrador) , anchorage islands (Labrador) . ledges • point . reef (Mingan island) , channel , tides rock ' rocks ' shoal - ■ Traverse Mille Vaches bay , anchorage - 172 - 143 - 143 - 204 - 205 - 205 - 273 110, 114 245, 240 - 267 : 0,238 - 238 350 INDEX. Mille Vaches point — — shoals MUI island Milne reef Mingan channel — — harbour , directions Page 27, 42, 235,238 - 42,233 - 283 - 183 - 206 - 207 - 207 islands - . 32, 192-208 , banks of soundings 32,208 , directions - - 207 , supplies ., tides ■ patch ■ ri^er Mistanoque bay harbour ' island -, directions -, soundings Mistassini, or Great stone - Modest, St., islands Moisic bay — — — point — — — riyer • , tides ■rock ■ shoal Moule, cape Moulin Bande anchorage - 193 - 194 - 205 193, 207 - 154 138, 153, 155 155, 156 - 156 23, 155 - 177 - 131 - 214 - 214 - 210, 214, 215 - 215 - 216 . 215 - 202, 206 - 187 - 92 - 92 - 92 - 28 - 287 27, 36, 38, 45, 49, 226, 227 ■ 227 • 46, 227 - 38,227 - 27, 38 - 227 36, 37, 219, 226, 227 - 41 •, fW)m with N. winds - 41 -, from with S. winds 41, 42 , to Bicqnette island 38-39 - 61 257,805,307 Moniac island Mont Joli — ^ Louis bay river ", anchorage — , current Montmorency &lls Monts, Point de - -, aspect of coast -, bar -, caution • -, current -, ledge of rocks -.light -, pilots Montange island Muddle channel harbour -, directions island Murray bay Mnrr islets rocks , anchorage ■ bay, directions -, ledge off Mnshkoniatawee bay Musqnarro river Mutton island Page - 202, 206 - lis - 116 - 115 - 114 - 242,251,260 - 260 • 260 - 161 136, 161,164,165 - 161 - 191 - 185 - 161, 162 Nabesippi river - - 188, 191 Napetepee bay - - . 153 Natashquan, Little, harbour - 189-191 , bay - 188 — — ^ .directions 190 J stream - 189 point - 22, 33, 180, 187 — river - - 188, 189 - 268, 296 - 177, 178 - 171 - 171 236,237,311,312 -, light - - - 311 -tides - - - 312 Neptune rock - Nest rock Netagamu islands river Neufport Newfoundland, S. coast of, tides and currents 31 Niapisca channel ... 202 island - - 199,202,203 Nicholas, St, cape • . 45, 49, 228 ' • , harbour . - 228-230 • ■ , caution . 329 ' , directions . 230 — — » "hoals - 229 — ', water . 229 Niger island . . .120 sound - ... 120 Noire point ... 30^ Norman cape - ... lag INDEX. 351 Page 2,206 115 115 115 114 1,260 260 260 161 4,165 161 191 185 ,162 North cape (Cape Breton island) (Magdalen islands) • rage - 30 66,67 an- chorage — channel - ■ directions — tides — below Coudres — — — directions , tides 264-266 to Quebec - 268, 269 — coast of Gulf - - 137,138 - 67 — , rocks 66 — , water 67 - 292-300 • 297-299 - 299 261-266 263, 264 -, aspect of -, climate - -, cod fishery -, egg trade -, inhabitants ■ , of Anticosti east cape ' middle rocks ' point • - 137 - 137 ■ - 138 - 138 • - 138 - 77, 78 - 57 112, 114 - 77 - 224 rocks ... shore below Coudres island 257-261 — . as- 257 267 301 85 99 293 pect traverse , tides west arm reef Notre Dame church (Eboulemcns) Observation cape - - - 78 . river - - 70, 75 Observations, general - - 252, 261 Oil islet - - - - 129 Olomanosheebo falls - - 184 river - - 184 Onion island - • - 275 Open bay . - - - 1 1 1 Ore point - - - - 211 Orient point - ... 236 Origneaux cape - - - 271 point .... 250 Orleans channel ' isle - 268, — , anchorage -, shoals — — pomt Otter island - Ouelle point river - Outard bay - , anchorage , directions ■ ' point river Outer islet rocks Oyster pond P««e - 287 - 269, 299 282, 283, 286, 287 - 287 - 268 - 288 - 119 - 250 - 250 231, 232, 233, 234 - 233 - 234 - 232, 233, 234 - 38, 233, 234 - 181 - 164 - 57, 59 Paint river - - - - 184 Panard point - - - - 87 Pancras, St., cove - - - 232 point - . 230, 231 Paps of Matan - - .93 Parsley port - - - - 259 Partridge mount - - - 196 point - - - 190 Fashasheeboo bay - - - 191 Patience island - • . 285 Patrick hole bay - - 286, 290 ' , anchorage - 286 , tetegraph - - 586 Paul, St., island - 23,30,31,51,52 , anchorage - - 52 , depot of provisions 51 , lights - - 30, 52 , to Bird rocks and Magdalen islands Pauls, St., bay Pavilion point river Paynter point Peak point Pearl reef Peashtebai bay Peninsula point - Pentecost river Perce bay - - 31, 32 260, 261, 293 - 283 - 60, 73 - 169 143, 144, 145 - 60, 63 - 192 - 86, 131 • 223 • 83 352 INDEX. Pafo Perce bay, tides > • - 83 cape - - - - 64 mont, or Table Roulante - 83, 84 point - - - - 83 reef - - - - 83 rock - - - 83 town - ... 83 Percce rocks - Peril rock - Peroquet channel ■ island - 247, 255 - 153 - 206 - 139 inent island, Jones's establish- islfits Peterel isles - - Peter point (Mai bay) , St., bay - - . , anchorage ■ , water and wood 139, 141 - 205 - 121 - 84, 85 - 121 . 121 - 121 islands - lake - , light vessels point Petite riviere Petites iles Pierre de Gros cap reef river •• , St., church , point Pilgrim islands Gt. island Long -, anchorage ', anchorage 120, 121, 126 - 312, 313 - 313 - 121 • 293 - 309 - 66 - 92 - 294, 297 - 283 245, 246, 248, 249 245, 246, 248, 249 - 249 248, 249 -, middle - shoal Pillage bay Pillar, Stone and Wood, islets Pilots - schooners, stations Pique point - - . Pitts harbour - , directions - ■ , water and wood - 249 248, 249 - 248 - 196 267, 271, 273 38, 41, 59, 94, 96, 226 - 41 - 260 - 122, 124 - 124 hill point Pizeau point Pleasant bay - , anchorage - Pleureuse river - 124 - - 122 - 124 - 2es 32, 60, 62 - 32,62 - 92 Plongeur bay -, caution Pocklington island Point de Monts (see Monts, Pointe auz Morts Trembles , light Pointed rock Pointe du lac Pond bay -, light -, anchorage -, water , Great (Cape Bozier) point - Porpoise rocks Portage bay harbour Port Augustine Neuf , river , sands Positions, table of Prairie bay , directions , tides pomt shoal Price island Provision posts Puffin bay Pye rock Page - 236 - - 236 - 113 , sunken rock • 114 Point de) - 201 - 311,313 - 313 - 281 • 311,312 - 311 - 115 - - 115 - 116 - 91 - 142 - 152 - 162 - 163 - 163 - 169 - 236, 237 - - 237 - 237 - 322-335 268, 292, 294 - 294 - - 295 - 294 - 5>92, 294 - 167 - 71 - - 198 - 118 -, directions Quarantine anchorage Quarry channel cove , water island - 284 - 203 - 203 - - 203 - 193, 203 14, 287, 288, 289, 301 - 288 Quebec - , anchorage , basin- - - . 287 , docks ... . 28g , harbour - - 287, 288 , ice - - - 15, 289 , India wharf - - 287 , martello tower - - 287 — — , Observation bastion - • 287 1 quarantine anchorage - 284 INDEX. 353 - 336 - 236 - 113 • 114 de) - 201 311,313 - 313 - 281 311,312 - 311 - 115 - 115 - 115 - 91 - 142 - 152 - 162 • 163 - 163 - 159 236, 237 - 237 - 237 322-335 192, 294 - 294 - 295 - 294 i92, 294 - 167 - 71 - 198 - 118 Quebec, quarantine, establishment , passage -, tides -, timber rafts - -, variation - Quetachoo-Manicouagan bay Quin channel — — island Quirpon island VagQ 284 - 284 - 301 - 288 - 14 - 192 - 201 200, 202 - 126 Bace island Ragg bay - point Bag ledge - Baisin island - , light Bay cape Bazade islets - Beaux island Bed bay -, directions • — — , harbours, inner and outer - 283, 285 - 198 - - 198 - 167 - 313 - 313 - 23, 30 - 25, 43, 104, 105 - 267, 281, 283 - 127, 130 - 130 130 — , soundings — , vater cape ... head island island ■ from, to Brandy Pots - 130 - 130 - 61 - 148 44, 253 253-256 islet - 25, 44, 46, 48, 238, 241, 242, 243, 254, 257 , bank - 46, 47, 242, 253, 254, 255 - 46, 242, 254 - 44, 47, 238, 243 - 25, 26, 106 - 238, 252 - ICO - 34 - 79 - 13,241 - 313 - 116 - 311 - 311 - 311 - 128 - 211 - 211 - 97 - 97 - 97 , light - — — — -, passage -, reef , tides point - Beef, Fox - point - Bemarks, general - Bepentigny light Bibb reefs Bichlieu islet , lights rapid llich point - Bidge point ', rocky ground Kimousky church - — — pier [ST. L.] — VOL. I. Rimousky river road Biver islands Boadstead point Bobert, cape Boches point - Rock, river Bocks, bay of Rocky bay - Romaine, la, river Roque, St., bank , church , point , shoals -, shoals, beacons , buoys - , inlet — — , light vessel Pago - 97 - 97 - 110, 112 - 224 - 78 - 304, 309 - 220 165, 166, 245, 259 - 153 - 184 - 279 - 251, 269 - 251, 269, 270 - 270, 271, 276 • 270,271 south bank tides - Rouge cape - . . . point . . . Roulante, Table, or Mont Perce Round head islet - rock Roys mills Rozier cape - , light Saddle hill - island . . - Safe rock - - - Saguenay cliffs , anchorage off - 271 - 276 - 270 - 270 - 301 293, 297 305, 307 - 83, 84 - 161 - 160 - 95 - 282 23, 85, 90 - 90 - 192 - 130 - 167 239, 257 - 257 258, 263 reefs river 25, 26, 239, 257, 258, 259, 303-310 , anchorages , bar , buoys , currents , directions , eddies 308,309 - 304 305, 306 - 25 - 307 - 305 , entrance - 257, 305, 307 , navigable 57 miles - 304 , shoals - 25,26,262,263 , tides - 301,304,305,310 Sain cape . - - - 260 Saints' channel - - 195, 197 Z 354 INDEX. Saints rocks Salaberry bay Salmou bay caution cape ' islet . port Salt lake bay Sand lark reef top cape Sandwich cove head — — — point Sandy-beach point harbour . I , directions — , water and wood hook channel -, directions ■ fiat ' island point • river ' spit Suult an Cochou de Mouton Pass Sawbill river - Scale rock Scatari island 1. 211 . 259 . 93 - 85 - 198 - lie r> 106, 168 - 115 - 177 <;.«.£. i:^ . 120 . 313 - 27, 32, 33, 104 - 870,276 - 182 • 64 252-257, 264-266, 267, 268, 269-280, 281-292 above Crane island 281-292 below Traverse - 252-267 through S. Traverse to Crane island - 269-280 , to Quebec , tides . makers ledge ' middle rocks point (Anticosti) ■H' 267, 268, 269 264-266, 280 23, 136, 176 - 114 - 35, 73 , aspect of coast 73 , beacon - 73 , reef - - 73 rock - - 273,277,279 shoal (Labrador) - 131, 132 shore below Traverse - 246-251 , from St. Thomas to Levi point - 281-283 Page i ,'!' 218 218 - 219 - 217 - 219 60 158 lid f - 159 )t'/, 298 • 150 2, 124, 125 - 89, 166 ds)147,148 2, 123, 125 198, 199 - 156 - 156 - 148 - 119 - 119 - 75 - 83 - 64-66 - 65 242, 243 - 243 • 120 5, 176, 180 - 181 - "536 17, 18 - 314 - 181 INDEX. Wolf cove ... island (Labrador) ■ (Magdalen islands) Prro - 289 - 181 60,66 Woman, Old, rock - - - 85 Wood island (Fish harbour) . 160 (Labrador) - 133-135 . anchorage - 134 , fisheries - 135 . , ice - 135 ■, tides, &c. - 134 Wood island (&Iingan islands) ■ (St. Lewis river) Wood pillar island Wreck bay (Anticosti) (Labrador) - Wye rocks - - - 357 Pa«e - 195 . 113 371, 373 - 72 127, 129 - 281 York point • 122, 129 iV- •:■:; .1- < 1 r • * ' ■■* \'t ,?»,,,. i»Hy^;r ' ■'' 1 ' -:(;^i >, , /;fr 7 i=-: . ifii'' i ' t 'r t *'.j •*.'■' ^._ ■ » '■•' i ^'■ Iru; ^riyf ■i:'. H?>V* ,--^.. „., JgHg / ^ C.-t, >!*■<■,-'> i .'r .iJ? .' '.■,•»;>;'' t*i' ' ' <« LONDON t Printed by Gborok E. Etke and William SrorruwoobB, Printers to the Queen's most Excellent Majesty. For Her Majesty's Sutioner)- Office. .V