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For its impartiality and truthfulness the two editors have been more than once complimented by persons of every party ; and the same distinguishing features which marked the early numbers have been preserved to the very close. Partisans may difTer from the concluuons at which Mr. and Mrs. Hall have arrived, but no one will venture to say that either the lady or her husband have misstated or misrepresented anything." — Mnrning Chronicle, Nov. 10. 1841. In Two Volumes, Price 14». cloth, HIGH LIFE m NEW YORK. By JONATHAN SLICK, Esq. " How Jonathan Slick went to see Madame Celeste, and Ms opinions tliervn, and how Fanny Elssler sought him, and his opinions of her, will amuse the reader who seeks them, in these volumes. How, at a milliner's Jonathan mistook a pair of French coruti fur a side-saddle — and a capital tale of a milliner which he tells amid some other records of the sorrows of milliner life — are, also, worth referring to at the lame lource." — Alhenaum. " If this is not Sam Slick under a new prasnomen, it is a capital imitation." — Spectator. n I h ■\ < u a, o 2 i ^. p- A BRIEF N A 11 R A T I V E rr THE SHIPWRECK THE TRANSPORT "PREMIER," NKAU THE JIOUTH OF THE KIVEll ST. LAWUEXCE, On niE 4tii ^lOVKUUKit, 1843, HAVING OX r.OAKD THE HEAD-dUARTER WING OF THE SECOND RATTAMON OF THE FIRST OR ROYAL REGIMENT, I'ROCKKDINO KKOM NOltTlI AMEIUCA TO THE WKST l.NKItS. ILLUSTRAVKD WrrU SEVEHAI. ENCiltAVIXGS FROM SKKTOIIKS MM>3 ON THE STOT. BV GEORGE R. DARTXKLL. THE DRAWINGS IN LITHOTINT BY J. A. IIAHMEUSLKY. LONDON: PUBLISHED BY JEREMIAH HOW, i;52. FLEET STREET. 1845. .1^%' # ( 1 If I f^ I London : Printed hy A. SporriswoonE, Ncw-Street-Square. ^^^ (^ ^^ TO GENERAL THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR GEORGE MURRAY, G.C.B. & G.C.H. GOVERNOR OF FORT GEORGE, MASTER-GENERAL OF THE ORDNANCE, COLONEL OF THE FIRST, OR " THE ROYAL," REGIMENT OF FOOT, THIS NARRATIVE 18 RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BT THE AUTHOR. rW I t 5' HI i >■ ^m « LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. No. of Copiet. Thomas T. Adams, Ksq., Anagurra, County of Limerick AdolphuB, Dr., 4th Dragoon Guards ('apUin Ainslie, 83rd Regiment Reverend W. Airey, Hexham Abbey, Northumberland Thomas Akinson, M. D., StafF Surgeon, 2nd Class Capuin Sir James Alexander, 14th Regiment Lady Alexander - - - - ' Lieutenant Anderson, S.'Jrd Regiment - Messrs. Armour and Ramsay, Montreal - Major General Sir Richard Armstrong, K. C. B. John Atkinson, Esq., Newbiggin Hall, Northumberland l^ieutenant Austen, 83rd Regiment Ensign Aytoun, Royal Regiment Deputy Assistant Commissary General IJailey Dr. Hartley, Surgeon, Ist Royal Dragoons Ensign Barton, Royal Regiment Edward Bawtree, Esq., Assistant Staff Surgeon Captain Bayfield, Royal Navy Lord Charles Beauclerck Captain Beaufoy, Enniskillen Lieutenant Colonel Bell, Royal Regiment M^jor Bennett, ditto Mrs. Bennett, ditto George Latham Bennett, Esq., Gleneefy, County of Limerick Edward Bernard, Esq., Limerick - Lord Bexley, Footscray, Kent Ensign Bidgood, Royal Regiment W. Birrell, Esq., Suff Surgeon, Ist Class Francis Bowen, Esq., Quebec Mrs. Henry Boyd, Mountjoy Square, Dublin Mrs. Alexander Boyd, Ballycastle, Antrim Captain the Honourable R. G. Boyle, Coldstream Guards I ill m\ I 'i Vs^ "^ vni LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Alderman J. Boyse, Limerick . . . John Boyse, jun., Esq., ditto C.-ptoin Boxer, C. B., Royal Navy E. Bradford, Esq., Surgeon, 23Td Royal Welsh Fusiliers Cardinal Brewster, Esq., Stanway Hall, Colchester - Lieutenant F. T. Brock, 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers Thomas Brooke, Esq., Lough Esk, County of Donegal S, Brooksbank, Esq., the Hermiage, Northumberland Miss Brooksbank, Haarlaugh Hall, Yorkshire R. Brough Esq., 83rd Regiment ... Captain Brown, ditto .... (Captain T. Byrne, Royal Regiment . - . Mrs. H. Bushby, London .... Sir Henry Caldwell, Quebec ... Archibald Campbell, Esq., ditto . . . Lieutenant Campbell, 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers . Mr. Carey, bookseller, Quebec Assistant Surgeon Carte, 1 4th Regiment John Chambers, Esq., Dublin . - - • Colonel Chaplin, Coldstream Guards - - . The Chisholm, 79. South Audley Street - Reverend E. M. Clarke, Lifford, Donegal Dr. J. Clarke, K. H., Blackhei th The Venerable the Archdeacon of Clogher Lieutenant Colonel Clitherow, Coldstream Guards - Major Cochran, 41st Welsh Infantry ... James Cochran, Esq., Croghan House, Donegal Honourable W. Cochran, Q. C, Quebec Lieutenant Lygon Cocks, Coldstream Guards Sir William Cockburn, Bart., Bath ... Honourable Henry A. Cole, M. P., Florence Court, Fermanagh Captain Coleman, 14th Regiment . . - Dr. Collier, Fitzroy Square, London _ - . Lieutenant Connolly, 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers - Captain Cooper, Royal Regiment ... William Corry, Esq., Enniskillen No. of Copicji. a &-^ ,^^- B) i-i .►-i ^ io. of 'opics. B) ^ ^) LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. IX No. i>f Copies. Dr. Crawford, Montreal . - . , A. J. Baker Creswell, Esq., M. P.. of Creswell, Northumberland Mr8. Crookenden, Cheltenham ... Lieutenant Cross, 68th Light Infantry . . - Ensign Crowe, S.Srd Regiment . . . , Captain D' Alton, Sard Regiment Deputy Assistant Commissary General Darling George Dartnell, Esq., Limerick ... Edward Taylor Dartnell, Esq., Bayswater Nelson Dartnell, Esq., 4th (King's Own) Regiment Admiral Sir Salisbury Davenport, C. B., K. C. H. - Captain Davenport, Royal Regiment - • Mrs. W. Davenport, Davenport House, VVorfleld, Wolverhampton Mt^or Daveny, Royal Regiment Reverend J. B. Deane, Finsbury Circus, London Ensign Deane, Royal Regiment Mrs. General Despard, Mulgrave House, Fulham - Charles Dickinson Esq., Upper Leeson Street, Dulilin Miss Dickinson - - . , - Honourable R. Dickson, Niagara Dr. Samuel Dickson, Bolton Street, Piccadilly Lieutenant Dowse, 14th Regiment Dr. Robert Dyce, Aberdeen . - - - Lieutenant Colonel Elliott, Commanding Royal Canadian Rifle Regiment William Elliott, Esq., Strabane, Tyrone Captain Elrington, Coldstream Guards - Colonel Evcrard, C. B., Commanding I4th Regiment Dr. Fisher L. L. D., Quebec . - - - David Fitzgerald, Esq., Limerick Lieutenant the Honourable A. C. H. Fitzroy, Coldstrean- Guards^ John Folds, Esq., Dublin . . - - Captain Gardiner, 82nd Regiment Garrison Metlical Library, Barbadoes The Misses Gascoigne, Spa Hill, County of Limeritk - 10 y 'I I ! it *l I t I 'I » i LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 2 No. of Copies. The Worshipful the Mayor of Limerick, Geary, Esq. - Charles Geddes, Esq., Montreal C. Gettings, Esq., Quebec . - . - F. Giddings, Esq., Ordnance Storekeeper, Enniskillen Captain Going, Royal Regiment Theodore Gordon, M. D., Inspector General of Hospitals Lieutenant Gore, Royal Regiment . . - Major Graham, ditto .... Reverend William Graham, Arthwick, Northumberland Mrs. Grant, the Knoll, Neath, S. W. - Augustus Grant, Esq., London ... Mrs. Grant, Portman Square, London - H. F. Grant, Esq., tlie Knoll, Kent Lieutenant Colonel Gray, Royal Artillery Captain Granville, 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers Dr. Greer, Lifford, County of Donegal . . - Captain Griffin, Deputy Assistant Adjutant General, Canada - Lord Viscount Guillamore, Caher Guillamore, County of Limerick Lieutenant Hall, 1 4th Regiment ... Captain John Harris, 24th Regiment J. Harrison, Esq., Excise, London - - - Lieutenant Hatton, Royal Regiment ... Captain Hawkins, ditto .... Lieutenant Henderson, Royal Engineers - - - Richard Hobart, M. D., Kilfinnane, County of Limerick Major General Sir James Hope, K. C. B. Captain Hope, A. D. C. - W. T. Hoskin, M. D., Royal Regiment Captain Ingall, Deputy Assistant Quarter Master General, Canada Dr. Johnston, 71st Highland Light Infantry Kemble, Esq., Quebec . . - - Captain Kennedy, 68th Light Infantry ... T. W. Kennedy, Esq., Gloucester Terrace, Dublin - Reverend J. King, Liilbrd, County of Donegal Captain Kirkland, Coldstream Guards ... LIST OF SUBSCRIBEBS. XI No. of Copies. Mrs. Kitchener, 79. South Audley Street, London - Reverend E. H. D. Knox, Kilflyn Glebe, County of Limerick - Alexander Knox, Esq., Staff Surgeon, 2nd Class Reverend F. Laing, the Mythe, Tewkesbury Miyor Law, 83rd Regiment - - - - Reverend J. Lawson, Buckminster ... Mr. Le Lievre, Quebec . . . - Captain Lloyd, 83rd Regiment ... William Lorimer, Esq., 24th Regiment ... Colonel Love, K. H. Mrs, Love _ - . . . Captain Lysons, 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers Leutenant Mackay, Royal Artillery ... The Right Honourable Holt Mackenzie - Miss Mackenzie, Doun Terrace, Edinburgh Reverend George Mackie, Quebec - - - Lieutenant Colonel Macklachlan, Royal Artillery - Dr. Mair, Staff Surgeon, 2nd Class John Maitland, Esq., Surgeon, Royal Canadian Rifle Regiment The Hon. Mrs. Maitland . . - . Mrs. Maltby, Bath .... Reverend S. Marindin, Shanks House, Somersetehire Captun Marindin, Royal Regiment - - - Mrs. Marindin, Chesterton, Wolverhampton Ensign Marriott, Royal Regiment . . - Captain Marsh, 24th Regiment . . . Captain Mayne, A. D. C. - Mrs. Mayne . . . . . G. M'Clure, Esq., 89th R«giment Mr. M'CuUoch, Quebec - . . - John M'Mahon, Esq., Fir Grove, County Limerick James M'Mahon, Esq., Limerick . . . Captain Mein, Royal Regiment . . - Lieutenant Menzies, Royal Engineers ... J. Millar, Esq., Surgeon, 43rd Light Infantry Assistant Commissary General Milllkin, Ensign Mobray, Royal Regiment a2 II h I 1 " ! i; Hi c^^ m r7^ JSlV 1 XII LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. The Lord Bishop of Montreal .... Thomas Morony, junior, Esq., Miltown, Malbay, County Clare Thomas C. Morris, Esq. . . - . . William Morris, Esq. ..... Lieutenant Colonel Mountain, commanding Sfith Cameronians - Ensign Mountain, ditto . - - . Armine W. Mountain, Esq., University College, Oxford Captain Muller, Royal Regiment .... Dr. Murphy, Kilfinnane, County Limerick ... General the Right Honourable Sir George Murray, G. C. B., G. C. H. Sir George Musgrave, Baronet, Edenhall, Cumberland John Nash, Esq., Toronto . . - - . Ensign Naylor, 83rd Regiment . . . - Lieutenant Newland, Royal Regiment .... J. F. Nivison, Esq., Staff Surgeon, 2nd Class ... Ensign the Honourable H. L. Noel, 6'8th Light Infantry J. O'Connell, Esq., Kilfinnane, County Limerick ... Officers' Library, 1 4th Regiment - . . . Ditto ditto, 24th Regiment ..... J. C Flaherty, Esq., Dublin . - - - . R. J. O' Flaherty, Esq., Staff Surgeon, 2nd Class - AViUiam Oliver, Esq., Spring Lodge, County Limerick Captain Howard A. Ormsby, Royal Regiment C. Oxley, Esq., Ripon, Yorkshire .... Mrs. Oxley ...... Lieutenant Parker, Royal Regiment .... Capt. Parkinson, 68th Light Infantry .... William Patton, Esq., Quebec . . - . Lieutenant Colonel Lord William Paulet, commanding 68th Light Infantry Captain Lord Frederick Paulet, Coldstream Guards Captain Percival, ditto .... Captain Pinkney, 73rd Regiment .... Sir James Pitcairn, Cork ..... George Piatt, Esq., Montreal Mrs. Piatt ...... No. of Copies. . 2 2 4 Cq ^ of ies. _^ '"W LIST OF 8UBSCKIBEKS. XUl No. of Copies. Captain the Honourable C. D. Plunket, Royal Regiment Lieutenant Colonel Pritchard, Assistant Adjutant General, Canada Captain Raymond, Royal Regiment ... Lieutenant Reader, ditto . - - - Lieutenant Rhodes, 68th Light Infantry Mrs. Colonel Richardson, Cheltenham - . - Ensign Rivers, Royal Regiment ... George Robertson, M. D., Surgeon, Royal Regiment John Ross, Esq., Quebec - . - - Miss Rushout . - - - - Miss Harriet Rushout - . - - James Guthrie Russell, Esq., Dublin ... John James Russell, U. D., Surgeon, 36th Regiment Mr. Sache, Commissariat Department, Quebec Major Rocheford Scott, 73rd Regiment - The Serjeant-Major, and 13 Serjeants, Royal Regiment Mr. Sheriff Sewell, Quebec . - - - Dr. James Sewell, ditto . . - - P. A. Shannon, Esq., Limerick - - - Lieutenant Sharpe, Royal Regiment - - - Dr. Shortt, Deputy Inspector General of Hospitals James Sinclair, Esq., Holy Hill, County Tyrone - William Sinclair, Esq., Broomfleld, County Donegal Dr. Skey, Regent Street, London - - - Dr. William Skeys, Dundrum, Dublin - - - Dr. Thomas Smith, Staff Surgeon, Ist Class Captain Robert Smith, Dundrum, Dublin Dr. Alexander Smith, Staff Surgeon, 2nd Class William Smith, Esq., Surgeon, 64th Regiment Mrs. Smith, Gallany, County Donegal - Lieutenant Somervillc, Carbineers Captain St. Aubyn, 83rd Regiment - - - Mrs. Henry Stewart, Tyrcallen, County Donegal - Mrs. William Stewart, Killendharra, ditto Ensign H. Stewart, 68th Regiment Ensign F. C. Stuart, ditto . - - - - 14 i1 I tl fe :l tl r- V' XIV LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Reverend B. Stirling, Gardner Place, Dublin M^or Stoyte, 24th Regiment Captain Stubbeman, 83rd Regiment Migor Swinburne, ditto . - - - M^or Temple, Quebec .... Reverend P. Thornton, Brock Hall, Lancashire Sir Matthew J. Tierney, Baronet, London Miss Tierney - - - - - Edward Tierney, Esq., Dublin ... Captain Tierney, Coldstream Guards . - - Lieutenant Tipping, 68th Light Infantry Andrew Todd, Esq., Buncrana, Londonderry Captain Torrens, 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers Major Townsend, 83rd Regiment . - - Lieutenant Colonel Trydell, commanding 83rd Regiment Reverend Dr. Vansittart, White Watham, Berkshire Lieutenant Vansittart, Royal Regiment - - - Reverend W. J. D. Waddilove, Beacon Grange, Northumberland Miss Waddilove, Thorpe, Ripon, Yorkshire Ensign Waddilove, Royal Regiment ... Mrs. Wallace, Boulogne-sur-Mer ... M^or Warburton, Bheamore, Clojordan George Warde, Esq., 25. Portman Street, Clifton - Reverend H. Wastell, Newborough, Yorkshire Lieutenant Webster, Royal Regiment ... Lieutenant Wells, ditto . . . - Reverend John West, Herbert Place, Dublin Colonel Wetherall, C. B., Deputy Ac\jutant General, Canada - Lieutenant Wetherall, Royal Regiment - . - Major General Sir George Whitmore, K. C. H. - Lady Whitmore . - - . - Lieutenant Whitmore, Royal Regiment • William Lechemere Whitmore, Esq. ... Charles F. Whitmore, Esq. - - . . Captain Charles Whyte, Wexford No. of Copies. 2 2 10 1 4 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 5 2 1 2 6 1 1 1 mg (M^ 5^ LIST OF 8UB8CB1BER8. Reverend W, N. Willis, Limerick Captain Willoughby, 23rd Royal Webh Fusiliers - Lieutenant Windham, Royal Regiment - - - Reverend George Wren, Rilfinnane Glebe, County Limerick - Lieutenant Wynne, 68th Light Infantry Captain Wynyard, Deputy Assistant Adjutant General, Canada Admiral Sir John West, K. C. B.- Mr. Yarwooil, Quebec . . - - John Young, Esq., Dorset Street, Dublin Lieutenant Colonel Plomer Young, Assistant Adjutant General, Canada F. T. Young, Esq., Shottesbrook, Kent . XV No. of Copies. - I - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - I M 1 1 -,! I' >. m THE WRECK OF THE "PREMIER." The calamities of shipwreck have often been experienced by soldiers of the British army, in traversing the seas from one colony to another; but it has seldom, perhaps never, been recorded, that of so large a number of persons as there were in the " Premier," of both sexes and of all ages, every soul was spared to return thanks for a merciful, and almost miraculous, preservation from most imminent peril. This truly gratifying circumstance must be mainly ascribed, under Divine Providence, to the cool and admirable conduct of the troops; their perfect and steady discipline, and ready obedience to the orders of their superiors, creditable alike to the corps, and to the service in general, and strikingly illustrative of the value and the protecting influence of order and discipline in the hour of danger. No army in the world is so much exposed as ours to " perils by sea and perils by land ; " to hardships, privations, and difficulties, little dreamt of by " those who live at home at ease." Such as are engaged in the horrors of war, or in active campaigns in foreign lands, receive at all times the deepest and sincerest sympathies of their coun- trymen at home; but it is far less generally known or thought of, how much the British soldier has to contend against in " piping times of peace " — long, painful, and distant separation from country, family, and friends ; now fainting under the exhausting heats of a tropical sun, now trembling amid the rigours of a northern winter ; at one Ml Ml }\L time facing grim-visagcd death in the varied forms of appalling disease in the Tropics, or exposed to the terrors of shipwreck in crowded transports, to the hurricanes and tor- nadoes of meridian, or the snow-storms of northern, latitudes. With reference, how- ever, to the transport of our troops by sea, it is but justice to the Government to admit, that, in this respect, a vast improvement has taken place of late years : the transports and troop-ships now provided are of a much superior description to the wretched craft in use a few years ago ; while much has been effected towards securing the comfort and safety of both officers and soldiers, in their long and wearisome voyages to and from their native country. The second battalion of the Royals left England for North America in the summer of 1836 ; and, after serving in various parts of Canada for seven years, received orders, in the month of September, 1843, to proceed to Quebec for embarkation to the West Indies, there to complete its period of foreign service. Three other corps — the 23d, 71st, and 85th — had a similar route at the same time ; and it yet remains to be proved, how far this change may be judicious, and what effect the sudden transition from the climate of Canada to that of the West Indies, is likely to have on the health of the troops. The cold bracing air of Canada, by the reverse change, has been found to act most beneficially on constitutions debilitated by the Tropics ; but this retrograde move- ment is an experiment, and it will be interesting and important to watch the result The Royals, at the period above alluded to, were stationed at Toronto, in Western Canada: the left wing of the regiment, under command of Captain Muller, quitted immediately for Quebec, and sailed, about the end of September, for Barbadocs, where it arrived in safety after an ordinary passage. The right or head-quarter wing, under Major Bennett, started, to pursue the same route, in the month following; leaving Toronto on the 9th of October, in one of the Ontario steamers, for Kingston — 180 miles — where it arrived next morning. A delay of some hours occurred here, the steamer destined for our conveyance down the rapids not being in port; but before evening we were again under way, in the only available boat at hand — a small schooner-rigged steamer, with an Ericsson propeller, vulgarly denominated a " puffer." On board this little craft (the accommodation in which was sufficiently scanty and miser- able) were embarked all the officers and a portion of the men, the remainder being crowded into two large bateaux, to be towed alongside. Hitherto, in proceeding to, as well as from, the Lower Province, the troops have all been forwarded by way of the Rideau Canal ; but, a few small steamers having been built, on mercantile speculation, of small draught of water, expressly for navigating the rapids of the St. Lawrence, with a view to expedition and economy, the regiments proceeding down this year have all been sent by this new route — an experiment that, if repeated, it is feared by many, will result, sooner or later, in some wholesale cata- strophe. It is true that time and expense arc both saved by this rapid mode of convey- ance, which may do very well for insurable goods ; but to huddle a mass of powerless human beings into small boats, and whirl them, with the speed of lightning, down these fearful rapids, seems " a clean tempting o' Providence." The Upper Rapids — the Cascades, the Cedars, and the Long Sault — have for many Dcicent of tho Lnng Sault Rapid. 33 )| !|i 1 1 H> i' t S f^ years past been navigated by bark canoes and large bateaux, and latterly even by steam- ers, witli comparatively little risk ; but the Lower or La Chine Rapid, until the year 1843, has never, I believe, been shot, except by Indians or other adventurous individuals. Thitf magnificent rapid (over which flows, it will be recollected, the waters of six of the largest freshwater lakes in the world) is by far the grandest of the St. Law rence rapids, though of less extent than some of the others, its length probably not exceeding a mile or a mile and a half; but the slope is so precipitous, and the bed of the river so rugged, and broken by ledges and masses of rock, that the headlong rush of the stream, and fury of the foaming waters, are appalling to look on. Though the river is wide, the channel, or navigable part, is winding, narrow, and intricate ; and the pilot should be thoroughly acquainted with its course, and possessed of great nerve and presence of mind: from the moment he enters the rapid, he is whirled along with such fearful velocity, that he has not an instant for reflection; and one touch upon a rock hurls the vessel, and all on board her, to instant and inevitable destruction. ' On our approach to the head of the La Chine Rapid, the two bateaux were cast adrift, and left each to the independent guidance of an Indian pilot, the captain of the " puffer " not daring to take the three vessels together through so narrow and dangerous a passage : the officers of companies, too, left the steamer, to take up their stations in the bateaux of their respective companies, and share the fortune, what- ever it might be, of. their men. Up to this point the two boats were firmly lashed, one on either side, to the little steamer; but the moment the lashings were let go, they fell astern, in the smooth water, at the head of the broken stream; and, as we looked forward at the " hell gate" we were just entering, and looked backwards at the two helpless barks from which we were about to fly, it seemed as though we were meanly deserting our companions, and abandoning them to certain destruction. Here oars and sails are alike unavailing ; the boat is swept along by the force of the current WBECK oj^ THE " PREUIEB. alono; the hclmaman guides lur, as he iicitt can, iii/ud^h the centre of the rushing stream ; and, besides his, every arm id useless and inactive : should a rock be struck, every soul on board must perish — the otrong Hwimmer, as woll as the feeble infant; — no power can save from such a gulf, but One I Those on the main deck of the steamer were ordered tu stow themselves away amid- ships, and remain i)erfcctly quiet ; and the officers, and a few others who were allowed to keep the upper deck, were obliged to lay themselves at full length, in order that there should be nothing to obstruct the view of the man at the wheel, nor any risk run of being jerked or washed overboard. The pilot (a fine intelligent-looking Indian) seized the helm with a powerful grasp ; his dark eye became fixed, and lighted up with unwonted fire; and even his imperturbable countenance showed that the whole powers of his mind, as well as those of his body, were concentrated on the one all-absorbing point. We now entered the boiling rapid, and were instantly swept onwards at a pace, com- pared to which the utmost speed of a railroad seemed as nothing ; and the two bateaux quickly followed in the same impetuous career. But I shall not attempt any detailed description of this thrillingly exciting and most magnificent scene, hoping that the accompanying Print may convey a more accurate idea of it than I can hope to do by mere words. We watched not only the progress of our own little craft, but that of the two bateaux, with intense and breathless interest ; losing sight, now and then, of one of the boats, as she disappeared for a moment behind the crest of some foaming wave, or became lost in a cloud of spray. About half-way down the rapid we passed the wreck of a large boat that (having lost the channel) had been driven, a day or two before, upon the end of a rocky islet, fortunately somewhat out of the force of the current. A party of Indians had contrived to reach her, in their bark canoes, and were endeavouring to save some of the barrels of flour which composed her cargo. tim- ^:,?' !•; AVRECK OF THE " PBEMIEB." The wild rush, the uncontrolled fury, of the waters, white with foam, or dashed into columns of spray against contending rocks, showed the extreme peril of our course ; the inevitable destruction that must follow the slightest collision of the vessel ; the utter fruitlessness of any efforts of ours, in the event of an accident ; and the insignificance of man's works, when placed in comparison with those of the Creator, on a scale of such magnitude and grandeur. I have since heard this singular and beautiful scene likened, not inaptly, by a lady who had witnessed it, to "a storm in a calm" — below are the wild and foaming billows of a tempest-tost sea, while above all is quiet, serene, and tranquil. We reached Montreal in safety, the second day from Kingston *, and Quebec the day following, taking up temporary quarters in the Jesuit Barrack. About ten days after thisj the " Premier " transport arrived, after a quick ^vifsage from England, for our conveyance to the West Indies. She was a barque-rigged vessel of 500 tons burden, remarkably well-built, strong, and beautifully modelleu, but, as some naval men thought, somewhat over-masted. She had a great quantity of provisions and other government stores on board, was soundly rigged, and well foun• a.'^ £^k>X_ "*.i ^^iH^^Q^^I 1 . 1 I 1 1 ^^^1 i , ^l^^^^^l ii w' Z?^ "^^^ :i-; I'. 1-1 of the 68th and 82d regiments; and many were the ominous dreams and warning prognostics of old women that were afterwards foretold of the direful fate in store for the unlucky Boyals. In consequence of strict orders from the Horse Guards, no more than the regulated number of women were allowed to accompany their husbands, and many a destitute wife and child were left behind. A few of these unhappy creatures succeeded in smuggling themselves on board during the confusion ; but they were soon detected in their hiding-places, and, however they might have deplored their apparently cruel fate at the time, had ample reason subsequently to congratulate themselves on the failure of their enterprise. The total number of persons embarked was about 350, including officers, men, women, and children, and the officers and crew of the vessel. The officers who embarked were Major Bennett commanding, Captain Davenport, Lieutenant and Adjutant Wetherall, Lieutenant Whitmore, acting paymaster. Lieutenants Lysons, Gore, and Vansittart, Ensign Waddilove, and Surgeon Dartnell; besides Lieutenant Harris, 11. N., transport agent, and the master, Captain New. The only lady of our little party was Mrs. Bennett, whose heroic and patient conduct, throughout the whole of the trying scene of the subsequent shipwreck, was the theme of universal admiration. Two days were allowed for stowing away and securing the baggage, laying in stock, and shaking the men into their berths : the bustle and confusion of the crowded decks in some measure subsided, and on the afternoon of the Slst, the "Premier" loosed her topsails, took her pilot on board, and weighed anchor from the harbour of Quebec *, dropping gently down with the ebb tide and a light breeze from the westward. The navigation of the St. Lawrence is at all times attended with danger, from the intricacy of its channels, its numerous reefs and shoals, and from the sluggishness and * See vignette. U5.'^ ^' /!^^ iiit I F 1 ■ !;, ..f i 1 « si (i .1' uncertain variation of the compass ; but these perils are greatly increased, at the commencement of the winter, by the gales which frequently prevail at this season ; the fogs, and snow-storms, and strong currents, which, from being powerfully acted upon by the winds, are so irregular in their force, as well as their direction, as seldom to be calculated upon with accuracy. Innumerable accidents, accordingly, occur annually to the late "fall" shipping in this noble but dangerous river. During the month in which the "Premier" was lost, no less than nine merchant vessels were wrecked upon its shores, with considerable loss of life and property. The marine insurance, I believe, on vessels navigating the St. Lawrence, is null and void after the 31st of October; and no ship of war is allowed to enter the river after this date. The first three or four days after sailing were passed without any incident worth remarking ; the weather, though particularly cold for the season of the year, was ' Premier ** n£f Hare Island. tolerably fine and moderate, but the prospect dreary in the extreme ; the land on both sides of the river white with snow ; the low and cultivated fields of the south, as well as the bleak and rugged mountains of Labrador on the north shore. We had a comfortable ship, however, an abundant and excellent stock of provisions and stores of all kinds ; all rm' M •/l^' J£^ ^6 m v\ WRECK OF THE " PBEMIEK. were contented and cheerful ; and we consoled ourselves with the comforting assurance that a few days of favourable wind would exchange our snow and ice for the genial warmth of a summer sun. "We reached Green Island, 160 miles from Quebec, on the morning of the 3d of November ; and here (instead of accompanying us to Bic Island, about 50 miles farther down, as he should have done) the pilot took his leave, hoping, no doubt, as the wind was fair, and we could hold a straight course, that we should have passed the last dangerous parts of the river within daylight. The wind continued to blow fresh from north-west all day, with occasional falls of snow, coming down now and then in heavy gusts and squalls, from the gorges of the Labrador Mountains ; but the captdn, naturally anxious to clear the St. Lawrence as speedily as possible, " cracked on" with all the sail he could carry, and all on board were elated with the rapidity of our progress, and the prospect of an early release from cold and dreary weather. In the evening, by way of enlivening the scene, and infusing something of mirth and gaiety through the ship. Lieutenant Wliitmore — the Orpheus of our party — assembled some 20 or 30 of the regimental singers on the poop, where they sang " The days that we went gipsying," the " Lincolnshire Poachers," and a few other popular glees, in their usual admirable style. After passing the lighthouse on Bic Island (wliich we did about three o'clock in the afternoon) the course steered was east by north, Captain New intending to make the light on Point des Monts — the northern boundary of the river's mouth, — and there "stand away" with a flowing sheet, if the wind held direct for Anticosti. Owing to the thickness of the weather, however, this land-mark was not seen ; and after running, as was calculated by the reckoning, within five miles of Point des Monts, the ship's course was changed to cast half south, thus making, as it proved, an insufficient allowance for the force of the southerly current, which, though set down in the best charts as running at an average rate of a mile and a half an hour, ie known frequently to set towards the opposite shore, during strong northerly gales, with a force r I of five or six knots an hour, as it certainly did with us, and as we were afterwards assured must have been the case by the fishermen at Cape Chatte. This may, in some measure at least, accoimt for the disaster that befel the " Premier," without attaching as much blame to the master as has been done by some. In further extenuation of Captain New, I may add, that a merchant vessel which left Quebec with us was lost the same night, under almost precisely similar circumstances : the captun (an old experienced mariner, who was then making his five-and -twentieth voyage of the St. Lawrence) steered the same course that we did for Point des Monts; was equally unsuccessful, owing to the thickness of the weather, in sighting the lighthouse on that headland ; and, from thence, steered east by south, (half a point, be it remembered, farther south than we did,) and was, in consequence, driven ashore by the northerly current two miles higher up. Like us, he had no previous warning of his danger, and his ship drove right on shore amongst the breakers, and went to pieces before daylight ; the officers and crew providentially escaping with their lives by swinging themselves from the rigging to the rocks. As night came on the wind freshened to a gale and drew ahead, a double reef was taken in the topsails, the yards were braced forward, and, instead of running free with the wind on the quarter or abeam, as we had been doing for some hours previously, we were soon close-hauled, as sailors say, " on a taut bowline." At ten o'clock the lights were dowsed as usual, except one in the cuddy, and the officers, all but the one on duty, retired for the night to their cabins. Between decks all was still and silent, the watch alone remained on deck ; the night was thick, dark, and dreary, and the soldiers in their great coats, the sailors in their " sou'-westers " and pea-jackets, stowed themselves away behind the weather bulwarks, amongst the booms, and wherever else they could obtain must shelter ; and even the " look-out " on the forecastle (one of the unsainted worthies shipped at Quebec), as was afterwards ascertained, actually sneaked off unobserved to his berth. In this unpardonable dereliction of duty, and breach of a cs3 -■^d? 5f M.I WRECK OF THE " PREMIEB." 11 most responsible trust, strange as it may appear, there was something, perhaps, after all, that was providential ; for (to anticipate a little) I may state, that had the man on the look-out given warning of approaching danger, he could not possibly have done so many minutes before we actually struck, owing to the thick driving of the snow, and the darkness of the night ; and had the ship then been put about, instead of running as she did into a sandy bay, she must inevitably have driven headlong on the reef of rocks that forms the eastern boundary of the bay, and have gone to pieces before morning. The captain, too anxious, as may be supposed, to sleep, remained on deck, occasionally consulting the charts which lay spread out on the cuddy table, and superintending the steering of the ship, which was found to be attended with more than ordinary difficulty owing to the sluggishness of the compass. To whatever cause this extraordinary circumstance might have been owing, the binnacle compass of the " Premier," from the time we left Quebec, required the constant attendance of a boy, whose duty it was to keep it in a state of activity, by tappmg the box every now and then with the finger. In this state were matters on board the transport, when, about three hours after midnight, and while running at the rate of five or six knots an hour, she suddenly struck the ground with fearful violence. This blow roused me from a sound sleep ; and my first impression, or rather hope, was, that the dreadful concussion was caused by the letting go of the anchor and chain cable, or the strikmg of some heavy sea — a delusion that unhappily was speedily dispelled ; one or two still more formidable shocks quickly followed, and D. and I (who occupied the same cabin) were almost flung from our berths, and rushed instantly on deck, where we encountered a scene of confusion and dismay that can more easily be imagined than described. A heavy gale was blowing, with thick driving snow, the night intensely dark, the sea running mountain high, and bursting in floods over the decks; the ship plunged and laboured dreadfully, as if struggling like an ensnared animal to free herself, but in vain, her bottom violently striking against the ground with a most frightful and indescribable sensation, and the C2 M , i VI II 111 ii u i.'- i sails slatting, with thundering sound, against the bending masts, whilst the shrieks of the women and children mingled with the howlings of the wind. Our actual position at this time could not be ascertained; and the three hours of total darkness that followed seemed a century of anxiety and appalling suspense. The captain, I believe, suspected where we were ; but no one else had the remotest idea whether we had struck on the north or the south shore of the St. Lawrence, on the island of Anticosti, towards which we had been steering, on a rock, a reef, or on a sand-bank. Blue lights were burned, and signal guns fired, though with great difficulty, owing to the plunging of the gun under water, and the want of a proper match, a substitute for which was at length found in a lighted cigar ; and there soon appearing no chance of succour, or any possibility of getting the ship afloat again, the dangerous expedient of cutting away the masts was determined on, fearing, from the heavy rolling and labouring of the vessel, increased by the top-weight of the masts, that she should heel over on her beam-ends, or break up in her present berth before morning. The decks were accordingly cleared of all whose assistance was not required ; and, with the aid of saws and axes, the fore and main masts were speedily cut away, and went over the side with a tremendous crash. This hazardous work was performed by a party of the soldiers*, under the direction and aid of the officers of the ship, the carpenter, and one or two of the old seamen. The cutting away of the masts is always a moment of critical danger and anxiety, lest their falling to windward should cause the ship to settle over in that direction, thereby exposing her decks, instead of her side, to be swept by every coming sea. They fell to leeward, however, and fortunately without the occurrence of any personal accident, notwithstanding the crowded state of the decks and the profound darkness of the night. * Amongst these a grenadier of the name of Moore was conspicuous, and was afterwards promoted for his general good conduct and gallant behaviour. ^:? S c^ i ^ * /. ii". a. 4r O 9 to o a. !i! ii> I- X c X Ix. to Wj ■-Q a. JZJ^C' m iia Most of the officers, many of the boys of the bund, and a few of the sergeants' wives and their children, congregated in tl>c cuddy, where the swinging lamp was kept lighting as long as possible : but here, as elsewhere, the sea constantly burst in through the side ports ; the furniture got adrift from its lashings ; and men, women, and children, tables, chairs, boxes, stove-pii)cs, and sundry other loose articles, were often washed, efi viasse, from side to side of the cabin. Those on deck were of course still worse off, — drenched to the skin with every sea that bi'okc over the ship, exposed, most of them half-naked, to the " pelting of the pitiless storm," and Hung every now and then, by some sudden and heavy lurch, into the lee scuppers, from whence they were dragged, half drowned, by their comrades. Long-wishcd-for morning broke at length ; and, as the shades of darkness rolled away, we were cheered by the sight of land under our lee — joyful relief from the anxious dread and suspense of the past three hours I Our situation, however, was still exceedingly critical, and perilous in the extreme. The ship was making water rapidly, and the hold filling so fast, that it was feared the main deck, where so many luckless creatures were now crowded, would ere long burst upwards ; and as her back was thought to be broken, and the sea still breaking incessantly over her, it was not known how soon she might part asunder. The snow had in a great measure ceased to fall, and the wind was beginning in some degree to moderate ; but the scene was wild and desolate as can well be imagined: heavy masses of broken clouds were driving across the sky ; a tremendous sea, black and crested with foam, rolled in from the ocean ; the sea-birds shrieked as they wheeled and circled above our heads ; and our "devoted bark," dismantled and dismasted, lay bedded in the sand, and buffeted by every wave, surrounded by the fragments of her masts and yards, still clinging, by the tangled rigging, to the ruined hull.* Peering anxiously towards the shore, Sec Plate II. ^M 9i n , 'I in the grey light of the morning, wc discerned a few fishermen's huts along the strand, and some six or eight solitary individuals sheltering themselves from the storm behind the stumps of up-torn trees, and gazing at the wreck, but unable to render any assist- ance. Some large fishing-boats were hauled up on the beach, one or more of which we confidently expected would speedily be launched to our aid; but seeing, after a while, that the poor habitans had evidently no intention of any thing of the kind, we immediately set them down either as a heartless and pusillanimous set, who dreaded the risk of a wetting, or as a party of banded wreckers, gloating on the prize so unexpectedly cost into their net, and waiting quietly for the elements to complete the work of destruction ere they greedily pounced upon their prey. But, as the dim and uncertain light of early dawn gave way to the clear light of day, we soon became aware of the fearful, almost impassable, barrier that lay between them and us — a tremendous and overwhelming surf, that, like the celebrated surf of the Coromandel coast, rolled, in three successive billows, on the strand. We could distinctly see these " combers," as sailors call them, rising like black and liquid walls, each succeeding one still higher than the other, bending, curling over, till the lengthen- ing line bursts upon the beach with thundering sound, and gushes, in a sheet of snow- white foam, far upon the shelving sand. " The billows float in order to the shore ; The wave behind rolls on the wave before." So perilous was our situation on board the " Premier," that, dangerous as this surf appeared to be, and indeed as it really was, there was hardly, perhaps, one on board who would not gladly have encountered it, slender as was the hope, in one of our small boats, of passing it in safety: and bleak and cheerless as was the barren and snowy prospect on shore, what would not every being have given to be able, at this * tl (c^. If .,.■. ,„,-,.-»i-.t f,«*fc'^^"js(^iilrftM?; id (_■■ C.' p, F-" el .-I in whose hands arc the issues of life and death " for a safe and merciful deliverance from what, a few hours before, appeared inevitable destruction. The arrangements, general and in detail, by the commanding officer and others, were so excellent, and the affair was conducted altogether with so much order, regularity, and circumspection, that the whole debarkation of men and officers, women and children, was effected providentially without the occurrence of a single, even the most trivial, accident. Major Bennett, Lieut Harris, and Captain New, were the last persons to leave the ship. The dwellings of the poor French Canadians were readily thrown open, and their provisions, such as they were, cheerfully shared. Men, women, and children were billeted up and down in shanties and barns ; a liberal ration of potatoes (or pittats, as the Canadians generally call ther.i) and salt fish was served out ; and a glass of country rum to each, which, after the long fast, fatigue, and continued soaking for several hours in ice-cold water, was neither useless nor unacceptable. For several succeeding days the officers, non-commissioned officers, and men were unremittingly employed, from daylight till dark, in endeavouring to save property from the wreck. In this arduous and harassing duty they were assisted by a party of Canadian fishermen, under the active superintendence and direction of M. Louis Roy, whose friendly aid throughout was of the greatest value. Provisions were, of course, the first things sought for in the wreck, as the whole village stock (which was merely the winter's supply for the poor habitants themselves) would be consumed in a week. Arms and accoutrements were next sent on shore, the officers' light baggage from the cabins, &c. ; and, lastly, such articles of ship and government stores and general baggage as could be fished up from the hold, which, as well as the entire space between decks, was full of water. All these things, as they came on shore, were collected by the "fatigue men" on and under the bank above the beach, and piled in heaps under the charge of sentries. tP^ w I '/ s m 22 WRECK OF THE " rUEMIEB." Sundry, and various too, were the articles cast in by the tide. The whole length and breadth of the sandy bay was strewn with fragments of masts, yards, and spars, broken boats, casks, hen-coops, rigging, &c., not to mention the dead carcasses of pigs and poultry, before alluded to, and which were speedily picked up for the cuisine, while numerous picturesque groups of boys, women, and soldiers might be seen drying their saturated clothes, or frying fish and roasting potatoes, in the red embers of the numberless bivouac fires along the beach. Several of the chests and boxes were burst open, and the contents presented, as may be supposed, a most pitiable appearance. Every thing was soaked with the salt water, and covered with a thick coating of black, slimy mud. The quarter-master- serjeant was a considerable sufferer in property, having had a lai^e quantity of scarlet cloth and cashmere, gold lace, and other articles of military equipment for the use of officers and men, totally destroyed. A small, unfinished, log shanty, that stood on the highest part of the bank, was fitted up as a quarter for some of the officers : the roof was covered with pieces of sail-cloth and tarpaulin, the sides with blankets, and a small stove, brought ashore i:c ■a ai C^ 8« from the ship's cabin, placed inside. This little hut, however, was found to be too small (not being above twelve feet square), and was given up as a guard-room. In front of this shanty a flag-staff was erected, and a reversed ensign hoisted as a signal of distress to any vessel that inight happen to pass within sight. The quarter- master-scijeant's scarlet cloth, and the stained and tarnished white and red jackets of the band and soldiers, were hung out to dry (after being washed in fresh water) upon the bushes and rail fences along the bank, where they soon froze en masse, forming a gay fringe to a sombre picture. The officers' head quarters were established at the house of Louis Roy's brother, which was the best and largest in the settlement, and the only one at all suitable for the purpose, though inconveniently situated at a distance of nearly a mile from the scene of the wreck, and on the opposite side of the little river of Cape Chatte, which had to be crossed and re-crossed incessantly, in a rickety canoe, through sludge, and field-ice, which floated in and out with every rise and fall of the tide. I may here add, that two soldiers were told off to the exclusive duty of ferry-men and porters at this river ; and it is but justice to them to state that they performed this arduous work for several days, with the utmost cheerfulness and good-will, from daylight till long after dark, wading incessantly through the broken ice and freezing water, and exposed, without even the covering of a great-coat, to all the inclemencies of Canadian winter weather. This head-quarter house, like all the others in the settlement, was built of logs, and consisted of three apartments, the outer, larger one, about twenty feet long by fifteen wide, with a sort of recess in one side, and a large open fire-place, black with soot, and garnished with salt fish and pieces of fat pork, &c. Its native furniture consisted of a hu^e double Canadian stove, often heated to a red heat, a broken ladder leading to a large loft above, two or three old rickety tables, and some half dozen still more rickety stools and bottomless chairs, with a sort of trough at the wmdow for the M tjl u 24 WRECK OF THE " PREMIER." general washing of faces and hands, plates, dishes, &c. This den served for " parlour, kitchen, and all." Of the inner rooms, one was twelve feet long by eight wide, with sundry hanging cupboards. This formed the sleeping apartment of seven officers, who lay, like the bog-trotters in Connemora, in a "family-bed" on the floor. The mattresses which were saved from the wreck were, at night, laid side by side on th^ floor, occupying the whole length of the room. The locale of each owner's mattress was indicated by his pillow, but the coverings, being scanty, were in common. The third, still smaller room, was occupied by the commanding officer and his lady in a commodioiis cheque-curtained bed (the only one in the house) at one end, while the patriarch of the family — a venerable old man of ninety-five — and his ancient rib, at the other end, nestled into the lower shelf of a lofty tier of berths, that rose one above the other to the roof, the other shelves being filled, in succession, to the top with a graduated scale of grandchildren and great-grandchildren. The whole interior of this house was dirty, black with smoke, and hung with ^/ QiE^; «r -^^v cobwebs, moccasins, fish, and sundry other lilce commodities, having nothing of the neatness and cleanliness of the French Canadian houses in general. The family, however, though poor, were hospitable, kind-hearted, and obliging. The old man seemed nearly in his dotage, and looked on in silent bewilderment at the uproar and confusion around him. The old dame, on the contrary, seemed to take special delight in the riot, and was the most active and thrifty of the household, bustling about from morning till night, with a broom in one hand and a bottle of rum in the other, keeping a keen account of the sundry glasses she disposed of to stray customers. The inmates of the mansion, when joined by our formidable party, consisted of above fifty persons, including one lady, nine officers and their servants, the transport agent, the captain and mates of the " Premier," the captain and mates of the other ship wrecked in our vicinity, a steward and black cook, with sundry other attendants and hangers-on, besides the patriarch and his wife, daughter-in-law, and son (to whom the house belonged), and three generations of children, of all ages and sexes, to say nothing of sundry cats, and numerous dogs, from the snarling cur, to the noble Newfoundland and Labrador dogs, of which there were two or three fine specimens. When you add to this formidable live stock all the light baggage of the officers, consisting of mattresses and blankets, trunks, portmanteaus, and carpet bags, coats, cloaks, swords, &c., the dining tables and chairs from the ship's cuddy, sundry articles of cabin stores, and provisions, saved from the wreck — such as hampers of hams, baskets of cheese, boxes of candles, loaves of sugar, canisters of tea, and cases of wine, — thermometers, barometers, and Sympiesometers, sextants, chronometers, and Admiralty charts, &c., it will readily be believed that, in this dwelling at least, there was little space to spare. Nor were the Serjeants, and soldiers, and their families, as may be supiosed, a whit better off: all were equally crowded ; and many, indeed, in other respects, were much worse "located." One company especially — the grenadiers — in a wretched frame-built barn, suffijred severely from cold and damp. The open ^( Q^B^ I.' .1 .1 i\ 26 WUECK OF THE " PREMIER." sides of the building gave adniittanoe to tlic drifting snow, and the piercing wintry wind, with the therniometcr sometimes below zero, whistled through the wiAKY ASSOlMATlONS. By FUED. knight HUNT. Elrf/aiUly printed, with One Hundred and Thirty Enyravings, Price Vis. bound, A WEEK AT KILLARNEY. By Mil. AND Mus. S. C. HALL. This volume is richly illustrated with subjects, picturing the scenery, luuuuers, ami customs of the ilistrict surruundiug the lakes, comprised in 2()0 pages, of a size not incon- venient for the traveller. Much beautiful scenery is for the first time described, the authors having recently made an especial visit for the purpose. By tlie aid of steam the magnificent scenery of these beautiful lakes is brought within two days' journey of Loudon. 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