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( ' -ii VOYAGE OF THE NYANZA R. N. Y. C. BilNG THE RECORD OF A THREE YEARS' CRUISE IN A SCHOONER YACHT IN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC, AND HER SUBSEQUENT SHIPWRECK BY J. GUMMING DEWAR LATE CAPTAIN KINo's DRAOOON GUARDS AND llTH PRINCE ALBERT'S HDSSAHS ^itif a Map anU JEIlugtrattons WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SOJ^S EDINBURGH AND LONDON MDCCCXCII All Rights reserved HW IiiEFAOE. * m The following pages are in the main nothing more than a plain unvarnished account of a voyage under- taken by myself in my yacht, the Nyanza ; and my chief excuse for making them public is that therein will be found the description of an eyewitness of several of the more remote and unfamiliar island groups in the great Pacific Ocean. Indeed, I be- lieve that I may safely assert that comparatively few of the islands which I visited have ever been approached by a yacht. But for the unfortunate loss of the vessel, I had hoped to ha-. , made an extensive cruise round the coasts of New Britain. New Ireland, and New Guinea which would have added very materially to the inter-' est of the voyage; '^ mais Vhornme propose, Dieu dispose." The majority of the illustrations are done from r^ -f r-" /•» r^ / VI PREFACE. photographs taken on the spot ; the portrait of the yacht is from a painting by F. Mitchell, Esq., of Cowei, whilst the spirited drawing of the scene of the wreck is by Algernon Yockney, Esq., Fleet Paymaster, K.N., who, from a most indifferent photograph, and from my description, has succeeded in producing a most natural and artistic representa- tion of the scene on the morning of July 30th. I take this opportunity of expressing my deep gratitude for the great kindness and hospitality that have been everywhere extended to us. Amongst those to whom I feel specially indebted are his Excellency Thomas Kerr, Esq., C.M.G., late Governor of the Falkland Islands ; William Harvey, Esq. of Monte Video ; J. H. Longford, Esq., H.B.M.'s Consul at Kobe ; Colonel Enrique Solano, late Governor of the Marianas Islands ; Senhor Luis Cardarso, Governor of the Eastern Carolines ; and last but not least, the officers of the British, United States, and Spanish Navies, from whom I have at '-11 times received the greatest kindness and assistance, and to whom I now beg to tender my most grateful thanks. J. GUMMING DEWAE. Plymouth, November 1892. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. The start- Azores-Ponta Delgack-Funias-St Michael's, CHAPTER II. Santa Maria -Canary Islands - Palma - St Vincent - Puerto Grande-San Antonio-Crossing the Line-Fernando Noron- ha— An interesting convict settlement, PAGE I CHAPTER III. '^"S'lf o~"S'''^''*"^^ '''""'"P*' ^* landing -Rio de Janeiro- H.M.b. Ruby— Tijuca— Corcovada, . . 14 CHAPTER IV. Squally weather-Monte Video-Uruguay-San Jose-A Swiss colony-The bull-ring and saladeros of Monte Video, . 22 CHAPTER V. n Contrary winds -Slow passage - Nuevo Gulf, Patagonia -A haul of fish- An indifferent day's sport-Port Madryn- Com- mencement of troubles with the sailors— Trelew— A Welsh colony -An extravagant and badly managed railway -A shoal of porpoises— Whales-Fine weather, . 39 CHAPTER VI. The Falkland Islands-Stanley-An unpleasant incident-En- lorced delay-An improving colony and an excellent Gover- VIU CONTENTS. nor — H.M,S. Swallow — Wild-fowl and game — Seals — A day's shooting — Submarine mining operations, 41 CHAPTER VII. An excursion among the Falkland Islands — Lively Island — Good sport — A couple of accidents — Speedwell Island — A penguin- rookery — "Shags" — George Island — Pig-shooting — A native menu — A sea -lion — Port Darwin — Christmas Day — Another unpleasant incident — New- Year's Eve, . . .50 CHAPTER VIII. New- Year's Day — Another excursion — Fox Bay — Great Island — Ruggles Island — Exciting sport — A nasty accident — A grand trophy — H.M.S. Flamingo — The new skipper — Farewell to the Falkland Islands — At sea once more — The Straits of Magella. — Gregory Bay, ..... 60 CHAPTER IX. Sandy Point — A British naval cemetery — A severe storm— San Nicholas Bay — A wreck — Cape Froward — Fortescue Bay — Slow progress — Borga Bay — Playa Parda Cove — Port Angosto — Bad weather — Port Tamar, . . . . .70 CHAPTER X. Continued foul weather — ShoU Bay — A dangerous adventure — The yacht aground — An imsatisfactory crew — Burgoyne Bay — Otters— Magnificent scenery — Isthmus Bay — Piazzi Island — Natives in canoe — Commissariat difficulties — Puerto Bueno — Guia Narrows — Molyneux Sound, .... 81 CHAPTER XI. Taken in tow — Chasm Reach — Beautiful scenery — Exorbitant charges — A British steamer — Attempt at extortion — An Italian man-of-war — Connor Cove — More delays — Waterfall Bay — Island Harbour — Hale Cove — In the open sea once more — The Pacific Ocean — A dead whale — Heavy seas — Ex- periments with oil — Cumberland Bay — Juan Fernandez, CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER XII. Juan Fernandez- Abundant supply of fish- Wild-goaf shooting —Alexander Selkirk — On our voyage again — Out of our reckoning — Mollendo — Arrangements for a trip into the interior of Peru, • • . . . 102 CHAPTER XIII. The railway from Mollendo to Arequipa -Wonderful engineering -Arequipa-Puno-Lake Titicaca-Inca remains -Bolivia- La Paz— Obrases, • . . . 111 CHAPTER XIV. A curious cemetery-Return journey to Mollendo-An Enc^lish engine-driver-Resumption of voyage-Callao-Arrangem'ents for repairing yacht-Lima-U.S.S. Trenton-A bull-fiaht- Considerable damage to the yacht, . . . ° 124 CHAPTER XV. Excursions in Peru-Chicla-A novel mode of travelling-Hotel quarters at Lima-Cock-fighting-Lotteries-A good bargain -ban Lorenzo — A curious religious custom — Progress of work on repair of yacht, . . ,„» CHAPTER XVI. A dance-Another bull-fight-A boat-race-The Cathedral-The National Library-Completion of repairs to yacht-Diihcul- ties with theship-chandlers— Ancon— Digging' for "huacos"— An interesting discovery, . . CHAPTER XVIL We leav3 Peru - Completion of our first year's voyage -Fine '""'f !-^f '^^^« ^^^t^^^i- at sea-Easter Island-The crater otUtuiti-Stone "uages-Anakena Cdve-A miserable night, and a primitive breakfast-A village greeting-History and condition of Eu.ter Island-Terano Ka„-H'anga-roa-Pur- cfiase of provisions— Departure from Easter Island, . 153 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. Lovely weather — Loss of fowls and log-fans — Fatou-hiva, in the Marquesas Islands — A French settlement — Luxuriant vegeta- tion — History of the islands — Hiva-oa — The Casco — Mr Robert Louis Stevenson — The French Government at Hiva- oa — An extravagant dish — Nuka-hiva — A beautiful bay — A remarkable Englishman — Dearth of curios — Renewed trouble on board the yacht — Ahi atoll — Rangiroa atoll — Point Venus —Tahiti, . , . . 167 CHAPTER XIX. Papeete — A disappointing town, but a splendid harbour — The mountains of Morea — A gay and amusing spectacle — I dismiss my servant — A modest request — A wonderful coral-reef — The Arclipelago of Tahiti, or Society Islands — I engage a French steward — Excursion through the island — Hitiaa — A native lev^e — Mataiea — A paradise of indolence — The plantation of Atimavao — More trouble on board — Discharge of the sailing- master and cook — Re-engagement of the former, 178 CHAPTER XX. Mail communication between Tahiti and San Francisco — Vexa- tions and delays — The Catholic Bishop of Tahiti — Death of the king's brother — Father Collette — Farewell to Tahiti — A good day's run — The Samoan group of islands — Pagopago — Father Forestier — A war-canoe — The French Catholic Mission — An interesting visit — Native fishing — Curio-hunting — Apia — Father Remd — The civil war in Samoa — H.M.S. Calliope — A tropical rain — High-handed action of Germans in Samoa — Departure from Apia, . . . . . . 191 CHAPTER XXI. A rapid passage to Tongatabu — Eoa Island — Niukalofa — H.M.S. Egeria — The Friendly Islands — Mua — " The Emerald Isle of the Pacific" — Tugi — A native drink — Kaluga — An enormous cave — A wonderful collection of curiosities — Political affairs in Tonga — A stroig gale — We leave Tonga — Bound for Fiji — The 180° meridian — A succession of islands — Viti Levu — We anchor in Suva harbour, . , . . . 206 i CONTENTS. XI 167 178 CHAPTER XXII. History of the Fiji Islands — Continuous rain — TLe labour ques- tion in Fiji — Agricultural prosperity — A narrow escape from cannibals — Fijian curiosities — We leave for New Caledonia — Walpole Island — Noumea — A naturalist's museum — An- other disagreeable experience on board — Visit to a local in- dustrial exhibition — The convict band — A remarkable band- master, ........ 214 CHAPTER XXIII. History of New Caledonia — Interesting particulars concerning the convicts and lihMs — Excursion into the interior of the island^- The convent of the Immaculate Conception — The mission station of St Louis — Discharge of James Millar, A.B. — Convict establishment on He Nou — A discourteous gover- nor — Condemned criminals — Exorbitant pilotage — We leave New Caledonia — Loyalty Islands — The New Hebrides — Erromango — A quaintly interesting service on Sunday — Mission life in the New Hebrides, .... 223 91 )5 CHAPTER XXIV. Sandwich, or Efate Island — A fine harbour — New Hebrides coffee — Protection Island — Scarcity of genuine curios — Malli- collo Island — A native village — A primitive mode of striking fire — Remains of phallic worship — The ship cook's scare — Espiritu Santo Island — Tongoa — Curious arrows — A strange custom — Bat-shooting — Out at sea again — A strong gale — The Banks Islands — Port Patteson — A terrific storm — The price of a pig, ........ 234 CHAPTER XXV. Santa Cruz — A dead calm — Canoes, costumes, and customs of the natives — Volcano Island — A curious experience — Carlisle Bay — Scene of murder of Commodore Goodenough — His monu- ment — Picturesque scenery — A relic of the stone age — Flying- foxes — Evil reputation of the native:. — Departure from Santa Cruz — Violent squalls — Apamama Island — Fears of typhoon — We change our course for Honolulu — A miserable day — Con- tinued bad weather — Christmas Day on the Pacific — Arrival at Honolulu— Old friends—End of year 1888, . . .245 xu CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVI. The Sandwich Islands — Civilisation at Honolulu — New-Year's Day — A sudden hurricane — Waikiki — A dramatic entertain- ment — Trip on board the Kinau — My fellow-passengers — An amusing regulation — Mahukona — Kaiwaiihae — Hilo — A pro- fitable sugar-mill — An excursion under adverse circumstances — Volcano House — The great crater of Kilauea — Disgraceful practices — A marvellous spectacle — Return to Honolulu, 256 * * CHAPTER XXVII. A royal visitor — Anglican Cathedral — The Bishop of Honolulu — U.y.S, Dolphin — An audience of the Kir,' of Hawaii — The royal palace — The Government Museum — The prison — The Queen's Hospital — Tlie Lunalilo Home — A boat-race and a paper-chase — My new cook — Tlie Kamehameha schools — A naval dramatic entertainment — An evening party on board the Nyanza — The royal Mausoleum — The Pali — " Patience " at the Royal Opei-a-house — Settling up — Departure from the harbour — i\Iy drunken skipper — Enforced return to port — A naval court — Symptons of mutiny on board — Dismissal of sailing-master and engagement of Captain Holland — Final departure from Honolulu, ..... 267 CHAPTER XXVIII At sea — A splendid run — San Francisco — The American inter- viewer — A Californian restaurant — The New Bush Street theatre — The Occidental Hotel — Articles on our voyage in the newspapers — The Biitish Consul — A troublesome custom- house officer — The Presidio — H.M.S. Icarus — A chapter of accidents — I lose my new sailing-master and engage another — Sparring at the California Athletic Club — I make a con- siderable change in my ship's crew, .... 282 CHAPTER XXIX. China Town — A "joss-house" — Opium-dens — A Chinese theatre — Hang Fer Low Restaurant — More changes in my crew — An excursion round the bay — Sausalito — The rival yacht-clubs — The Nyanza takes up her position at Sausalito — Repairs on board — San Quentin — The Government prison — A hard case — Cruising in the bay — Tiburon — Angel Island — " A lang CONTENTS. Xlll grace and nae meat " — Preparations for a trip up the Sacra- mento river, ....... 291 256 CHAPTER XXX. A trip on the Sacramento — Benicia — We run aground — Short of coal — Black Diamond village — A primitive hotel — Salmon canneries — Rio Vista — DraMbacks and hindrances — A river steamer — Monotonous scenery — A disagreeable expedition — Sacramento — The Capitol and race - course — Return to Sausalito by train — Fresh troubles on board the yacht — Democratic institutions — Hasty departure from San Francisco — A narrow escape for the skipper — A stormy night — Arrival at Vancouver Island, ...... 299 267 CP'APTER XXXI. Vancouver Island — Victoria — Esquimalt — Pleasant dealings with the custom-house officials — H.M.S. Swiftsure and Icarus — Sport on Vancouver Island — Easter at Victoria — The Royal Jubilee Hospital — A cricket-match — We leave for Japan — A severe storm — Loss of steam-launch— Damage to the yacht — O :• water-supply runs short — We alter our course and make for the Sandwich Islands — Lahaina — Another refractory sea- man — The Lahainaluna seminary — Our voyage to the La- drone Islands — Port San Luis d'Apra, 310 282 CHAPTER XXXII. The Ladrones, or Mariani Islands — Punto Piti — Agana — The Spanish colony — Fort Santa Cruz— A cock-fight — A dance — Apra — Dinner-party on the yacht — Wild -deer hunting — Generous presents — Mail-day — Sail for the Bonin Islands — Completion of our second year's voyage — A huge shark — The Coffin Islands — The Bonin Islands — A motley colony— Peel Island — Port Lloyd — My first experience of Japanese life — A Swedish naturalist, . . . . . 319 CHAPTER XXXIII. A Japanese governor — A curious cave — Bound for Japan — Si wo Point — The Kii Channel — Isunii Straits — Kobe — A ride in a jinriksha — A curio-shop — The European quarter — Hiogo — A JapaneFe temple — Extortionate prices — A fair in Hiogo — Arrima — Hot baths — Basket-work — A kango — Kioto_ — A XIV CONTENTS. ■J series of interesting temples — A Japanese theatre — An acrobatic performance — Otsn — Lake Biwa — Ishiyama — A celebrated temple — Osaka — A tempest, . . . 331 CHAPTER XXXIV. Repairs of the yacht — Progress of Catholicism in Japan — A swindling curiosity-dealer — Monsieur Bouchard — Curio-hunt- ■ ing — The Omaha and Monsoon — An exjiedition up country — Hikone — An ancient daimio's castle — Qifu — Kano — Unuma — Effects of a heavy gale — Ota — The Kisogawa — Mitake — A Japanese tea-house — Wild scenery — A series of mishaps — Nakatsugawa — An unsatisfactory inn — A wet day — Magome — Tsumago — Refractory natives — Suwara — Silk - culture — Agematsu, ....... 342 CHAPTER XXXV. Continuation of trip in the Japanese interior — Fukushima — Miya-no-koshi — Yagohara — Fresh troubles — The Torii Pass — Mitoyama — Lake Suwa — Shimo-no-suwa — An appeal to the police — The Maruya Inn — Toyobashi — Another accident — The Wada Pass — Tanaka — Romantic scenery — To Mayebashi by train — Ogi — Omama — An amusing scene — The river Waterasegawa — Hauawa — An obstinate coolie — Lovely scenery — Sori — Asliiwo — Nikko — A city of temples, . . . ilS 354 CHAPTER XXXVI. The Etas — A village of leather-dressers — Utsonomiya — A Shinto ten^ple — By train to Sendai — Yoshioka — Drunken natives — Sambongi — Furukawa — Kannari — A remarkable curiosity — Mayezawa — Kane-ga-saki — The volcano of Gan-jiu-san — Moriaka — Kotsunagi — Kinda-ichi — An unnecessary detour — Go-no-he — Wild flowers — Kominato — Awomori — Embark on steamer for Hakodadi, . . 364 51: i I- CHAPTER XXXVII. Hakodadi — The public gardens — The water-works — The " Stone of Green Blood" — The Ainus — Their religion — Nanaye — A Government stud-farm — Lakes Junsai Numa and Onuma — Mori — A curious temple — Mororan — The Ainu country — Horobets — An Ainu chief and his treasures — A sacred bear — I purchase a pup — Tomakomai — My guide's unfortunate CONTENTS. XV experiences — Endo — A wet day — Piritori — The Saru river — Penri, an Ainu chief — A miscellaneous collection of Ainu curiosities — The native form of salutation — A bad road — Sapporo — A night-pest — Otaru — A modern Japanese steamer — Oginohama — Arrive at Yokohama, .... 376 CHAPTER XXXVIII. Yokohama — A disappointing town — The United Club — Tokio — The Temple of Shiba — The Atago-yama and Asakusa temples — A Japanese chrysanthemum show — Deakins' Fine Art Gallery — The Kobe Morn — Return to Kobe — Progress of repairs to yacht — Expenses of my Japanese trip — Visit Nagasaki in H.M.S. Imperieuse — A landlocked harbour — Return to Kobe on the Takachiho - Maru — Shimonoseki — Deimrture for England of the last remaining men who had started with me — I return to England on the Parthia — The year's record of the yacht's log — Vancouver — The Canadian Pacific Railway- Montreal — England — Return to Japan by Messageries steamer Saghalien — Resumption of voyage of Nyanza — Kamschatka — Petropaulovski, 393 CHAPTER XXXIX. The peninsula of Kamschatka — The fur- trade — An undesi/able place of residence — The Queen's birthday — A late ^vinter — A bear-hunting expedition — Tarenskei harbour — Kluchi — A ride in a dog-sleigh — Bear-hunting under difficulties — A trial of patience and temper — Strange behaviour of my guide — Betchevinskaya Bay — A narrow escape of grounding — A week wasted — Admiral Price's grave — Successful fishing — Southward bound, ...... 404 CHAPTER XL. A varied run of three weeks — The Marshall Islands — Legiep — An obliging skipper — The German colony — Native religious belief — Jaluit — The German Commissioner — Difficulty in obtaining supplies — My sailing-master's unreasonable request — Another disagreeable incident — Kusaie Island — An unin- telligent trader — The Caroline Islands — A Protestant mission- ary stronghold — The native king — A self-righteous missionary — Interesting ruins — A fruitful island — The sailing-master's strange errors in navigation — We sight the island of Ponapi, . 413 J, j-JBT-agrsg.T-r* ' XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLI. A terrible disaster — The yaclit ashore — An awful night of anxiety and suspense — The Nyanza doomed — Operations on the wreck — Santiago de la Ascencion — Disturbed condition of the island — I witness actual warfare — Suicide of a Spanish colonel — End of the outbreak, . , . . . . CHAPTER XLII. The end of the Nyanza — Loss of my collection of curiosities — Dishonesty and arrest of Joaquim — Recovery of many stolen articles — Joaquim'a sentence — Sale by auction — Disappointing result — Conduct of the officers and crew — Court of inquiry at Hong Kong — Verdict — Conclusion, APPENDIX I. List of Ainu divinities in order of precedence, An Ainu legend of a famine, ..... Another legend of a famine, . . . 423 APPENDIX II. Description of the Nyanza, 431 439 440 442 443 »' APPENDIX III. Distances direct, and duration of passages, . Summary of voyage. Three best runs, .... APPENDIX IV. List of original crew on leaving England, . List of crew at date of shipwreck, . List of officers and men tenaporarily on board, APPENDIX V. Report of Court of Inquiry, APPENDIX VL Table of daily positions, . . ' . Index, ..... . 443 . 444 . 444 . 444 . 445 . 445 447 456 462 It I ILLUSTRATIONS. AUTOGRAVUEES. THE NYANZA UNDER SAIL, WRECK OF THE NYANZA, Frontispiece To face page 431 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. IN THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN, VIEW ON OROYA RAILWAY, PERU, BRIDGE ON OROYA RAILWAY, PERU, NIUKALOFA, TONGATABU, GOVERNMENT HOUSE, SUVA, FIJI, DRUM GODS AT MALLICOLLO, NEW HEBRIDES, CHIEF'S HOUSE, TONGOA ISLAND, NEW HEBRIDES, lOLANI PALACE, HONOLULU, H.I., CLIFF HOUSE AND SEA-LION ROCKS, SAN FRANCISCO, THE CAPITOL, SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA, INDIAN WOMEN, QUOTSINO SOUND, BRITISH COLUMBIA, VILLAGE OF I8HIYAMA, NEAR OTSU, JAPAN, TEMPLE GROUNDS, NIKKO, JAPAN, GARDEN AT TOKIO, JAPAN, ft 67 • II 116 II 134 II ii06 II 216 II 238 II 240 II 257 II 284 II 303 II 310 II 340 It 362 II 396 MAP SHOWING THE ROUTE OF THE NYANZA at end T XVlll ILLUSTRATIONS. V ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. PAGE PRIVATE (JARDENS, 8T MICHAEL'S, .... 3 GBAVEa OP OFFICERS AND CREW, H.M.S. DOTTEREL, SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF MAGELLAN, .... 72 VIEW IN SMYTH'S CHANNEL (a), ..... 81 VIEW IN SMYTH'S CHANNEL (b), ..... 85 ENGLISH NAKROW,S, SMYTH's CHANNEL, .... 94 INDIAN BALSAS, LAKE TITICACA, PERU, .... 117 ANCIENT WOODEN FIOCRES, ETC., FROM EA8TEI' LAND, . 165 TATTOOED LEO, MARQUESAS, .... 171 VIEW IN TAHITI, ....... 184 STONE PESTLES FOR CRUSHING BREAD-FRUIT, FROM TAHITI, . 185 NATIVE GIRL— SAMOA, ...... 195 KAVA-BOWL, ANCIENT WAR-CLUB, ETC., FROM SAMOA, . . 200 PRISONERS WAITING EXECUTION IN THE PENAL EST.N'U.ISH- MENT, ILE NOU, ...... 228 MISSION STATION, DILLON BAY, ERROMANGO ISLAND, . . 231 NATIVE HUT, MALLICOLLO, NEW HEBRIDES, . . . 237 NATIVES OP AOBA ISLAND, NEW HEBRIDES, . . .241 LOOM WITH MAT IN PROCESS OF MANUFACTURE, ETC., FROM SANTA CRUZ, ....... 247 WEAPONS, ETC., FROM NEW HEBRIDES AND CAROLINE ISLANDS, 250 ROYAL MAUSOLEUM, HONOLULU, ..... 277 ESQUIMALT HARBOUR, BRITISH COLUMBIA, . . .312 VALLEY OP THE KI80GAWA, JAPAN, .... 347 AINU OFFERING TO THE GODS, . . . . . 378 AINU WOMEN WEAVING (JAPAN), ..... 381 PIRITORI, YEZO, JAPAN, ...... 384 AINU WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS, .... 385 AINU, YEZO, JAPAN, . . , . • . . 388 AINU'S DRESS — BACK VIEW, ..... 389 AINU GRAVE (a MAN's), YEZO, JAPAN, .... 391 SANTIAGO DE LA ASCENCION, . . . . . 427 ^*-^>'« « III — i m I ,, - , VOYAGE OF THE NYANZA. CHAPTER I. THE START— AZORES— PONTA DELGADA— FURNAS— ST MICIIAEl's. July 21-Aiirjust lo, 1SS7. The sun was shining brightly, and a light breeze was blow- ing, as we weighed anchor at 1 p.m. on the 21st of July 1887, and slowly sailed out of Plymouth Sound, bound for St Michael's in the Azores. During the run of 1260 miles, we encountered many vari- ations of weather and temperature. The first four days were sultry, dull, and hazy ; but on the fifth day out a fresh breeze sprang up, which gradually increased in violence, driving us considerably out of our course. The dingy was damaged, the jib-boom sprung, and the bobstay-shackle car- ried away. After forty hours the wind subsided, and beau- tiful weather ensued. Nothing worthy of comment occurred during the next five days, except that we were several times becalmed. Eain then commenced to fall, and we were un- able to make any appreciable headway owing to lack of wind. The monotony was slightly relieved by the appear- A r^ I ■■ m 2 PONTA DELGADA. ance of a shark, which we vainly endeavoured to capture. Alternate calms and gentle breezes caused us to make but very slow progress. At length, on the eighteenth day after leaving Plymouth, we sighted the island of St Michael's ; and on Monday, August 4, we anchored inside the breakwater off Ponta Del- gada, at half-past nine o'clock in the morning, having accom- plished an average of only 70 miles a-day. We lost no time in landing, and were courteously conducted over the town by Mr liessone, the agent for the lioyal Albert Yacht Club. There is little to be seen in I'onta Delgada itself ; and the streets are narrow and dirty. A fine stone breakwater in course of construction, and approaching completion, was the principal object of attraction. This excellent work was much needed, the port having hitherto been unprovided with shel- ter of any kind. An iron floating dock, and a foundry on shore, also engaged our attention ; and in the afternoon we visited a magnificent garden, belonging to a native gentle- man. The grounds were of large extent, and laid out with the greatest taste, and there were several pineries and green- houses. We were especially struck with the glorious camel- lias, the size and beauty of which far excelled those to which we had hitherto been accustomed. The next day was hot and sultry ; and we did not leave our yacht till late in the afternoon. During the morning we were occupied in examining the damage sustained by our vessel during the breeze in the Bay of Biscay, and in giving orders for the necessary repairs. We also took several inter- esting photographs of the town and island as seen from our deck. In the evening we strolled about the town, and visited other native gardens, the latter appearing to us the chief attraction of Ponta Delgada. Many of the native aristocracy are very wealthy, and lake great pride in the cultivation of their grounds. Several of them have been laid out by the best landscape-gardeners of England, and possess collections ST MICHAELS AS A HEALTH-RESORT. aptxire. ike but mouth, [onday, ta Del- accom- 110 time own by ub. and the mter in was the as much ith shel- mdry on noon we gentle- Dut with d green- s camel- ,0 which lot leave niorning ll by our n giving ral inter- from our Id visited lie chief [stocracy ,'ation of by the lllections of trees and plants which have been imported at enormous expense from all part,« of the world. The owners of these gardens most courteously offer every facility to strangers to insj)ect them ; and the gardeners were invariably civil and attentive, preseninig us, in most cases, with flowers upon leaving. It seems strange rhat St Michael's should be so compara- tively little know 1 to English travellers. The climate is ex- cellent, house-rent moderate, and supplies good, abundant, and cheap. There are capital roads throughout tlie island, Private Gankiis, St Michaets, and carriage-hire is very reasonable. Donkeys are employed for mountain - excursions, and strong and useful animals they are. There are two great rer^uisites which St Michael'd lacks, — ii good hotel, and an English doctor. If these v/ere forthcoming, we believe that St Michael's would soon prove a formidable and successful rival to Madeira, as a winter health-resort. - ^^■« FURNAS. V 'I I Wednesday, Avg. 10. — We started at 7 a.m. in a carriage for Furnas, driving along the southern side of the island. The scenery in parts was very fine, and we thoroughly en- joyed our glorious drive. At Villa Franca, we halted for three-quarters of an hour for hreakfast ; and arrived at Fur- nas shortly after noon. On nearing the latter place we passed a lake with a beautiful chapel upon its shores. Furnas is famous for its Iiot springs, which consist of boiling sulphurous water bubbling out of the earth. The ground all around is hot and covered with sulphur deposits. The baths are supported by the Government, and everything is scrupulously orderly and clean. They are said to be highly efficacious In cases of rheumatism or cutaneous com- plaints, and they are Uiunh frequented by the residents of the island. Each visitor has a private bath and dressing- room ; and each bath is provided with four taps, admitting respectively hot and tepid sulphur and iron water, Ko charge whatever is made for the use of the baths. There is a very fair Ik tel attached to tlie establishment, which \\ as so full of visitors that we had great difficulty in procuring rooms. In tlie afternoon we called on some friends who reside at a charming spot overlooking the lake which we had passed )n our way, and across which we were rowed by our host on our return to the hotel. A dance at the club- rooms enlivened us in the evening, and we did not retire until after midnight. The next morning was spent in a visit to the baths, and afterwards to several private gardens, which, like those at ]'onta Delgada, were kept in beautiful order. Furnas is a small place, and is only frequcnied during the summer. "We were agreeably surprised at tlit moderate charges of the hotel— OS. a-day for board and lodging! We returned to Ponta Delgada in the afternoon, by the north road, which for the first part of the way led over a hill so steep that it was impossible to drive up it. We -u-.,^^ ORANGE INDUSTRY OF ST MICHAELS. 5 therefore ascended on donkeys, our empty carriage follow- ing behind. The view from the top of tlie hill was magnifi- cent, Furnas lying at our feet, nestled at the base of the mountains. AVe now dismissed our donkeys, and for the rest of the way we proceeded in our carriage, though the road was rough and liilly throughout. The land on either side wa .' covei'ed with wild flowers, hydrangeas and fuchsias being, perhaps, the most abundant. Ponta Delgada was reached soon after sunset. We remained four days longer at St Michael's, but the weather was hot and cloudy, and at intervals there were very heavy showers of rain ; so that there was little opportunity of seeing more of the island. St Michael's was once famous for its extensive industry in oranges ; but a few years ago the orchards and groves were attacked by a disastrous disease, by which many thousands of the finest trees were destroyed; and though there has since been no fresh outbreak of the epidemic, the island has never recovered its trade. Another branch of industry was aft'ected by the same catastrophe ; for the boxes in which the oranges were exported were made from the wood of the ex- tensive pine-forests which cover the interior of the island, and with the falling off of the orange-trade, the forests have also declined enormously in value. Still there is no reason why St Michael's, with its admirable climate and excellent resources, should not once more regain its prosperity. Having examined the repairs which had been effected on our yacht, and found everything in satisfactory order, we set sail once more on our onward voyage, bidding farewell to St Michael's on thp afternoon of Monday the 15th of August. '■!t CHAPTER II. SANTA MARIA CANARY ISLANDS PALMA — ST VINCENT PUERTO GRANDE SAN ANTONIO — CROSSING THE LINE — FERNANDO NORONHA AN INTERESTING CONVICT SETTLEMENT. AiKjust IG-Scptcmher 15, 1SS7. 9 Ouii course was now shaped for Palma, in the Canary Islands, from which St Michael's is about 660 miles distant. About 9 A.M. on the day following our departure from Ponta Delgada, we passed the island of Santa Maria, having a very good view of the town from a distance of about four miles. A few fir-trees were the only signs of vegetation that we could observe upon the island, which appeared to us very barren in comparison with St Michael's. The next three days we were assisted by a splendid breeze, and made an excellent run, averaging nearly eight knots an hour. On Saturday, August 20, we arrived off' Palma at 11.30 r.M., and hove-to outside the port to await daylight. Early next morning we proceeded to anchor in thirty fathoms of water oft' Santa Cruz. The appearance which this town presents from the sea is exceedingly curious and picturesque. It lies at the bottom of an extinct crater, and is surrounded on three sides by lofty and precipitous mountains. On landing we were fortunate enough to meet with a Spanish gentleman, who had lately returned from London. He courteously conducted us round the town, the streets of ■ > !»■ i*» SANTA CRUZ. 7 which are narrow, tliough there are some good stores where most articles can be procured. The rearing of cochineal has long been the staple industry of this island. It was once a source of great profit, but the trade has been greatly damaged by the introduction of aniline dyes. Cochineal is still, how- ever, abundant here, and a fairly brisk business is carried on in it. We had an excellent dinner in the one hotel of the place before returning to our yacht. Tlie next day being Sunday, we went ashore to Mass in the morning, and were surprised to find a very handsome church, with a beautiful white marble altar. The service was well rendered, and the congregation devout. At the conclusion of the Mass, we rode on mules to the top of a hill overlooki?ig the liarbour, the view from which was very fine. Whilst there, our attention was attracted by an interesting festival which was taking place at a little chapel on the summit of the hiii. The island of Palma is little known to English travellers, as the difficulty of communication with it is very great. A small schooner carries the mails to and fro between Palma and Teneriffe, and this is the only vessel which regularly calls at the island. Nevertheless the place is well worth seeing, and v.e much enjoyed our short visit there. We sailed from Palma at 8.30 a.m. on Monday, August 22, and headed for St Vincent, in the Cape de Verde Islands, alyj miles away. On our first day out we sighted the Peak of Teneriffe, the top of which was entirely free from clouds ; and in the course of the afternoon we passed the island of Goniera. We were abreast of Ferro throughout the night. Next day was dull and close with a light air, but on the mor- row a fine fresh breeze sprang up, and we found ourselves in the north-east trade-winds. Several flying-fish came on board this day and the next, and two steamers passed close by us. At daybreak on Saturday, August 27, we sighted St Vin- cent; and having passed the island of San Antonio, we fS? 8 PUERTO GRANDE. anchored off Puerto Grande, St Vincent, at noon. After lunch we went ashore ; and having procured a bill of health from the Brazilian vice-consul, we strolled about the place. There is, however, absolutely nothing to be seen, tlie town consisting merely of one straggling street, with a few general stores kept mainly by Portuguese half-castes. An exceed- ingly dirty hotel and three or four billiard-rooms complete the attractions of Puerto Grande. There is an almost entire absence of vegetation on this barren island, and a solitary banana-tree is pointed out to strangers as one of tht great curiosities of the place ! Puertr 'Irande is, however, a great coaling station, and most of the steamers which ply between Europe and South America call at the port. Some of the smaller islands in tlie Cape de Verde group are, unlike St Vincent, exceedingly fertile ; tliis being especially the case with San Antonio, whence comes almost all the frnit which is sold in the markets of St Vincent. The price of water is very dear at I'uerto Grande, and we paid 8s. a ton for our necessary supply. We were not sorry to get out to sea again on Sunday, August 28, shaping a course nearly S.W. for Fernando Nor- onha, 1320 miles distant. The weather was now excessively hot ; and the wind v/as so light, that for several days we made but very little headway. On the third day out, a terrific deluge of rain accompanied by thunder broke over us ; and for an hour and a half it almost seemed as though a waterspout were falling on the deck. As we approached the equator, the heat became intense, the sea appearing at times like a sheet of glass. Several sharks were seen along- side the yacht ; and, after great difficulty, we succeeded in capturing one. Shoals of honita were also observed fre- quently playing about the ship. On Thursday, September 8, when we had been eleven days out from St Vincent, and had run only 780 miles, the wind freshened considerably, favouring our progress, and the fol- 1? CROSSING THE LINE. 9 lowing day we ran 225 miles. At noou on Friday our posi- tion was, lat. 1° 9' N., long. 30° 11' W.; and we knew that we were in the neighbourhood of St Paul's Eocks. I was very anxious to visit them, and we spent the greater part of a day in searcliing for them. At 4 p.m. on Saturday, how- ever, we had still failed to discover them ; and, as the main- peak halyards carried away, we gave up the search, and shaped our course direct for Fernando Noronha. The breeze was then very fresh, and we did from seven to eight knots an hour. In the evening, we received a visit from Father Neptune, who was excellently personated by the sail- maker. Having taken the names of those of his sons v/ho had never previously crossed the Line, he retired, notifying his intention of returning on Monday to initiate the novices. We actually crossed the Line about 5 a.m. on Sunday, but the usual ceremonies associated therewith were, of course, out of the question that day. At half-past ten on Monday morning, all the necessary preparations having been com- pleted, Father Neptune came on board, attended by his staff, consisting of Aphrodite, the doctor, and the barber. All tliese characters were admirably represented by various members of the crew. An awning had been rigged up amidships and filled with water, thus forming a splendid bath. The novices were duly shaved, doctored, and tumbled headlong into the water, where they were well rolled about in the true orthodox fashion. Much amusement was caused by the attempts of one or two to escape up the rigging. They were speedily captured by Neptune's police, and compelled to undergo the disagreeable ordeal. The rest of the day was kept as a holiday ; and after dinner, a capital concert was held, in which every one participated, a most enjoyable even- ing being thus spent. We Imd hove to at 8.30 p.m. to wait for daylight, as we were now close to Fernando Noronha. The next morning, Tuesday, September 13, we anchored about 1| mile from the shore, and soon afterwards a boat B rrm , i I 10 FERNANDO NOKONHA. came off to us from the island, to make inquiries concerning us, and to give us permission to land. Fernando Noronha is a convict PcUlement belonging to Brazil, and special leave must be obtained before any one is allowed to land. Merchant vessels are .. . permitted to lie off the island. I was much struck by the appearance of the convict settlement from our yacht, as it lies at the base of a hill with a towering peak, many of the rocky precipices around it being of a quaint and peculiar shape. The messenger who had been sent on board our vessel had a strange and interesting history. He was a negro who had been condemned to a life-sentence for murder. About nine months before our arrival a mutiny had broken out amongst the convicts, and this man had undertaken alone a voyage to Pernambuco in order to give notice of the outbreak to the Brazilian authorities. The distance was 250 miles, on an open sea, and he accomplished the passage in a frail cata- maran. For this courageous act he had received a full pardon from the Government, but he had grown so accus- tomed to the island that he preferred to remain there. The governor, Senhor Furtado de Mendonca, received us with the utmost courtesy and hospitality, placing at our disposal interpreters and guides, and affording us every facility for thoroughly inspecting the island. He was unable himself to talk either English or French, and we conversed with him through the medium of his clerk, an Italian. This man was a meek-looking polished individual, dressed in excellent taste, and gentlemanly in his manners. To our surprise we were informed that he also was a convict undergoing a sentence of penal servitude for life, his crime having been an exceptionally brutal murder of a whole family of five persons, for the sake of a comparatively trifling robbery. This exceedingly mild murderous ruffian conducted us politely over the settlement, explaining everything to us with great minuteness, and responding with alacrity to all our questions. i^wl;— ■■■ m'^t . ' FERNANDO NORONHA. 11 srning ing to one is to lie of the base of jcipices . The had a j\\o had )ut nine \mongst , voyage k to the 3, on an ail cata- a full |o accus- Ire. The us with disposal ;ility for niself to ith him Ihis man ixcellent [prise we ;oing a 'P. The island of Fernando Noronha is ahout Ah miles long and IJ mile wide, the highest point being 1000 feet above the level of tlie sea. A smaller island lies a short distance from it, rejoicing in the ominous name of Eat Island. An old-fashioned stone fort is stationed on a commanc^'-ig situation overlooking the convict settlement, and a detach- ment of lirazilian infantry is stationed there. There are altogether about 1600 convicts on the island, tlie majority of whom are negroes. Murder and forgery appeared to be the principal crimes whicli had been committed, and some of the prisoners certainly looked capable of most dastardly and desperate deeds. Others, on the other hand, like our worthy guide, appeared outwardly as innocent and guileless as lambs; and it was difficult to realise that many of tliese were amongst the most bloodthirsty offenders. Apart from their enforced isolation from their country, I could not help thinking that their lot was by no means a hard one for penal convicts. Their compulsory work extends over but three hours a-day, and consists of ordinaiy field-labour. The rest of the time they liave to themselves, living in their own houses with their wives and children ; and unless they are violent, mutinous, or incorrigible, they are not subjected to any prison discipline. If I were a convict, I should certainly prefer Fernando Noronha to Portland or Dartmoor. We dined at the governor's house at 5 p.ji., and there we met three Englislimen connected with the British Museum, who had been spending some time upon the island^ engaged in botanical and ornithological pursuits. They had gathered together a very interesting collection of specimens, and a most pleasant evening was spent in their society. They were living in the house as guests of the governor, and were unanimous in their expressions of grateful appreciation of the kindness which they had received at his hands. At the conclusion of our dinner the convicts were paraded in front of the governor's house, and sang an evening hymn to the ewBtm^g^ ^ 12 FERNANDO NORONHA. 'h ! Il i Virgin. On our return to tlie yacht we found that the cour- teous governor had sent us nine sacks of cocoa-nuts, besides an immense quantity of bananas and fruit of various kinds. The next morning we returned ashore in good time, and after breakfasting at Government House we enjoyed a delightful . day's ride through the island. Our guide upon this occasion was another " thorough gentleman," who spoke French with perfect accuracy and fluency. Feeling assured this time that I v/as dealing with one of the officials, I asked him whether he inten led to remain long upon the island. To my confusion he replied, " Malheureusement, monsieur, j'ai encore sept ans." He was a French convict, undergoing ten years for counterfeiting bank-notes. The island had looked barren and rocky from the sea, and I was quite unprepared for the extreme beauty of the scenery and the luxuriance of the vegetation which we encountered during this interesting day's ride. The coast- line is indented with many little bays, the sandy beaches of which are homelike and charming. Fruit is exceedingly abundant throughout the island, and the oranges were, to my mind, the best I had ever tasted. On our return from our ride we went aboard the yacht, accompanied by the governor and other officials, including the two officers of the detachment quartered at the fort, who were much interested in the Nordenfelt guns with which our vessel was provided. We worked the latter with dummy cartridges, greatly to the enjoyment and edification of our Brazilian visitors. In the evening we dined again with the governor, afterwards listening to the convicts' band, which really played remarkably well. Next day, Thursday, September 15, after breakfasting again with the governor, we went for another ride, accom- panied by some of the officials. Amongst other places, we visited the summer residence of the governor, where we were regaled with cocoa-nuts and delicious grapes. We RAT ISLAND. 13 rode to the extreme north end of the ishiiul, where we rested for some time in a shady grove of bananas, retnrning to the settlement about 2 p.m. In the afternoon I went over to Rat Island in the launch, and there I found a Brazilian who spoke English well, having spent many years in the United States. He was working the phosphate rock of which the island is mainly composed, and anticipated a most successful issue from his speculation. An English barque was lying off the island, engaged in loading the phos- phate rock ; and we found the captain and crew in a state of great excitement, as two of the sailors had attempted the night before to set fire to the vessel, escaping themselves in one of her boats. Fortunately the dastardly attempt had proved abortive, though the men themselves had got clear oft' in one of the ship's boats. Kat Island is covered with a thick undergrowth of creepers, which renders motion most dillicult as soon as one gets off the narrow paths. I shot four small turtle-doves, but owing to the dense brushwood I only succeeded in securing two. On returning to the main island at five o'clock, I took some photographs of the place, as also a group of the officials, after which we had our final dinner with the governor. Senhor Furtado de IMendonca, our friendly host, accompanied us to the beach to bid us farewell, attended by the whole body of officials. The convict band marched in front of us, playing a bright and inspiriting tune ; and the strains of their music were wafted across the water to our ears during the whole course of our passage from t\\e shore to the yacht. Nothing could exceed the hospitable kindness which was displayed to us by every one, from the governor downwards, during the whole of our three days' visit ; and amongst my pleasantest recollections of the voyage of the Nyanza there will always stand prominently fo/th the convict island of Fernando Noronha. I '■ 14 ■ I CHAPTER III. TRINIDAD — INEFFECTUAL ATTEMPTS AT LANDING — PIO DE JANEIRO — U.M.S. KUUY — IIJUCA — CORCOVADA. September IG-Oclobcr S, 1SS7. We sailed from Fernando No •onlm at 8.30 a.m., Friday, September 16 ; and our coursj was now directed a little '" nf S. for the small island of Tri. "lad. The distance between .- . "■"> two islands is a little over 1000 miles ; and favoured by good winds during the greater part of the time, we accomplished the passage in seven days. Nothing worthy of record occurred on the way ; but on reaching Trinid' d we found thot the wind was blowing straight into the S.W. bay, where is the only anchorage in the islanatiire in them being a wonderful avenue of palms, absolutely regular and symmetrical, all the c rftn r \ 18 A CRICKET-MATCH. i i trees being very lofty, and of precisely tlie same height. There is also a fine avenue of mango-trees, with which we were much interested, on account of its novelty to us. We visited the Hotel de Londres again for dinner, which fully sustained the opinion which we had formed from our lunch of the culinary excellency of tlie establishment. In the evening we lounged along the llua d'Ouvidor, which is to Rio de Janeiro what the Corso is to Ron^ 3, tr *ingst the hills at the back of Rio de Janeiro, past handsor. ' Viilas and lovely gardens. The scenery, as we ascend' i, ;. v.'.ie exquisitely beautiful and widely extensive. On our > ,un we visited the Acclimatisation Gardens, which were tastei;,!'' laid out, and kept in excellent order. A large crowd of people, chiefly of the poorer classes, were enjoying themsj.ves in a decorous and quiet manner. The evening was srent on board our yacht. A cricket-matcl: took place on the following day between the ofiicers and men of tue Ruby and the ci( v £ Rio de Janeiro, in which the latter defeated the sailors. ' ' round was prettily situated between low hills, which we-'fc covered to the summit with iiowerin-.; trees and palms ; and the wicket was in fairly gc j..; 'jo;ul^ti>'\ The weatht was now excessively hot, though the se^-urec-ze usually set in in the afternoon. TIJUCA. 19 ne height, which we to us. We vhich fully a our lunch ;it. In the ch is to Rio e CUiiaja to aible here, sion, exclud- Kuhy iu the evotional, the len. We re- some valuable it, whither we lOon we went ;ar for several [iclupair.:ngKt ,iidsor.". viiias mcl' I, ' In our rere taste i..*^" large crosvc^ of ling thems j.ves was srent on Ig clciy between °itv f Rio de xbb ground Ih we-'fe covered lahns; and the lathe was now set in in the m On Tuesday, October 4, having paid a visit in the morn- ing to the admiral and officers of the U.S. flagship Lan- caster, we went ashore after lunch and drove to Whyte's hotel at Tijuca, where we were joined by some of the officers of the Euby. The hotel stands in a lovely spot about 10 miles from Eio, and at an elevation of 2000 feet above the sea. Consequently the situation is far healthier than that of the city, and the place is quite free from yellow fever. Never- theless, it is a curious fact that if a patient who has been attacked by the fever at Eio comes up to Tijuca before he has recovered, he invariably meets his death. The hotel stands ir. the midst of a lovely garden in a secluded valley, surrounded on all sides with well-wooded liills. Having re- mained to dinner, we missed the coach for the return journey wliich connects witli the tramway, and were compelled to liire a carriage, for which I was charged the exorbitant price of 10 milreis, or £1 sterling, for a drive of about 2h miles. The American admiral, accompanied by iiis flag captain and lieutenant, returned our call next morning ; and in the afternoon we took a tram, or hond as it is locally called, for Eiachuelo, where we ascended a hill by an incline lift, 1683 feet long. On arriving at the top, we had a glorious drive to the summit of Santa Thereza, where we inspected the new reservoir, and whence we were treated to one of the most picturesque panoramas in the neighbourhood of Eio, the whole city, together with the bay and its numerous beautiful islands, being outspread at our very feet. We also obtained a mar^nificent view of the famous Corcovada mountain. On Friday the weather completely changed, a strong breeze blowing all day. We went ashore after breakfast, and made an expedition to the summit of the Corcovada. The mountain is ascended by a " Eiggenbach " railway, similar to that up the Eighi and other mountains in Switzerland. The starting-point is at Cosnie Velio, whither we proceeded by ■HP 20 CORCOVADA. tram. The gradients of the mountain-railway are very steep in places, even reaching to 1 in 6 ; and the highest point of the line is 2198 feet above the level of the sea. There is one iron viaduct of three spans^ and two smaller bridges. The train consisted of only one carriage, which was pushed up from behind by the engine, the latter being provided with I centre cog-wheel, running on a centre cog-rail. By this means the train can at any moment be brought to a sudden stand - still and securely clamped, in case of accident or necessity. At the height of 1525 feet the train halts for a few minutes at a station called Paneiras, where there is an hotel owned by the railway company. The terminus itself is situated 130 feet below the summit of the mountain, on which is a circular iron structure resembling a band-stand. Unfortunately, at the time of our visit the weather was dull and cloudy, and we therefore missed the view, which is said to be indescribably magnificent. We returned by the train to Paneiras, where we stopped for lunch, afterwards enjoying a walk in the lovely forest, which clothes the mountain-side in the vicinity of the hotel. The vegetation is wondrously dense and vigorous, rich and rare orchids hanging on almost every tree, and the ground being carpeted with ferns of innumerable variety of species. Butterflies of brilliant and sparkling hue, and graceful little humming - birds, flitted about in all directions, enhancing the fairy-like character of the scene. Our stroll was cut short by a downfall of rain, and we returned to our yacht about 5 p.m. The following day, Saturday, October 8, brought our in- teresting visit to Eio de Janeiro to a close. The morning was occupied in marketing ashore, and in settling up various accounts. The prices which we were charged by ship- chandlers and others appeared to us extortionate in the c:..trenie, in some cases nearly doubling those which are deiT! 'nded from merchant vessels. A yacht-owner seems to be regarded as lawful prey by these maritime dealers, and "?«»ft SQUALLY WEATHER. 21 jry steep point of jre is one res. The ashed up ided with By this I a sudden jcident or lalts for a liere is an linus itself mntain, on sand-stand, er was dull hich is said 3y the train ■ds enjoying )untain-side wondrously cr on almost th ferns of )rilliant and ,irds, ilitted character of ifall of rain, this remark does not by any means apply to the port of Eio de Janeiro alone. Before returning to the yacht, we visited the Euby and bade farewell to the friendly officers ; and at 3 p.m. we weighed anchor, and sailed round all the men-of-war, dipping our ensign to each in turn, by way of a parting salute. The weather was now setting in squally, and rain began to fall heavily. There was a nasty sea on the bar, and we therefore decided to anchor for the night inside the entrance to Botofogo Bay. I*T? 2 22 CHAPTER IV. SQUALLY WEATHER — MONTE VIDEO URUGUAY SAN JOSE A SWISS COLONY THE BULL-RING AND SALADKItOS OP MONTE VIDEO. October 9-27, 18S7. The breeze proved pleasant and favourable next morning, though there was a considerable swell outside the bar. AVe hove up anchor at 10.30 a.m., and soon were speeding gal- lantly along before the wind at the rate of 11 knots an hour. We were now bound for Monte Video, a distance of a little over 1000 miles. The first day we ran 233 miles, but on Tuesday, October 11, the weather set in squally, and the sea rose, so that we were obliged to keep the yacht a little out of her course in order to ease her. Towards evening the wind dropped, and at sunset the air was almost a dead calm; but black thunder-clouds were hanging about, and vivid flashes of lightning appeared to herald the approach of one of those violent storms which are known as pamperos on the South American coast. We therefore double-reefed the fore- sail and stay-sail, housed the topmasts, and made all snug for the coming night. The next morning a strong gale was blowing, accompanied by rain, and the weather was very cold. In the course of the day the jib-boom sprang again in the same place as be- fore, and the jib-tack carried away. We saw, for the first time on the voyage, a large number of Cape pigeons, which SEA-GOING QUALITIES OF THE NYANZA. 23 are very pretty birds, with black and white plumage. We cauglit two of them with a hook baited with pork ; but I could not find it in my heart to kill them, so we let them go again. All the following day a tremendous sea was running, and the ship laboured a great deal. She behaved, however, splendidly in all respects, and scarcely shipped a drop of water. This was the first opportunity that we had had of really testing her sea-going capabilities, and the result was most satisfactory. On Friday, October 14, the wind dropped, and the sea rapidly went down. The morning was lovely, with a light, crisp air, and we accordingly set the foresail, jib, and flying- jib, and commenced running at good speed again. We sighted a brigantine at 11 a.m., going in the same direction as our- selves, and rapidly overhauled her, though she was carrying far more sail tlian our yacht. By the evening she was away hull down in our wake. It was now again almost absolutely calm, and we had an opportunity of examining the damage sustained during the late storm. A cat-head had been broken, one of the starboard davit- sockets carried away, and the top strake of the launch stove in. These, however, were com- paratively trifling damages, nnd we were more than ever satisfied with the qualities of our little vessel. As we drew near to Monte Video we passed several square- rigged vessels bound for the Hiver Plate, and we seemed to pass them one and all almost as if they had not been moving, although in every case they had all sail set, and a good favourable breeze behind them. On the afternoon of Mon- day, October 17, we passed within four miles of Lobos Island, and sighted the town of Maldonado, on the mainland, in the distance. The coast appeared flat and barren, but the town was well lighted at night. At 9 P.M. we sighted Flores light, and an hour later that on the Cerro. At three o'clock on the following morning we dropped anchor about three miles off the town of Monte Video, ■pflBritai 24 MONTE VIDEO. il 'i r finally anchoring in the outer luirbour about 8 a.m. We were not much impressed with the appearance of the city as seen from the deck of our yacht, the Cathedral being the only conspicuous building in the place. It was noon before we were able to go ashore, on account of a delay in the appearance of the health-boat. There is a great contrast between Monte Video and Rio de Janeiro, the capital of Uruguay being far cleaner than that of Brazil, the streets wider and more handsome, and the shops better in every way. The display of jewellery is particu- larly splenc^id, especially in the Caille 25 de Mayo, which is the principal street in Monte Video. It is not so broad, however, as the Caille 18 de Julio, which is planted with trees on both sides, in the manner of European boulevards, and terminates in a large open square, in the centre of which is a lofty pillar, surmounted by a fine statue of Liberty. We lunched and dined at the Hotel Oriental ; but the food and cooking were execrably bad. The hotel itself is a spacious and handsome building, and is generally considered the first in Monte Video. We spent the whole afternoon in strolling about the town, and riding on a tram to the Paso Mollina, a fashionable suburb about five miles distant from the heart of the city, adorned with fine houses and beautiful gardens. We looked in at the Cathedral on our return, but were greatly disappointed with it. Tlie building is decidedly poor from an architectural point of view, and one handsome monument inside it seemed the only object worth inspecting. We were, however, much pleased with our visit to the market, which is a handsome covered building with a fountain in the centre, and containing a magnificent display of fruit and vegetables of every sort and kind. We returned on board at 9 p.m., thoroughly satisfied with our first impressions of Monte Video, our enjoyment of the place having been considerably enhanced by the exquisitely mild and beautiful day. The following morning I was engaged in business with the SAN JOSE. 25 ,M. We of the athedral It was xnt of a ere is a Janeiro, that of ,he shops particu- ro, which so broad, ited with )ulevards, 1 of which 3rty. X the food a spacious d the first 1 strolling Mollina, a e heart of dens. We re greatly joor from iionument We were, iet, which le centre, i^egetables at 9 P.M., of Monte isiderably with the manager of the London and Brazilian Bank, whom I found exceedingly obliging and courteous, and who, together with his wife and family, contributed most materially to our happiness during the whole of our visit to Monte Video. Under their escort we visited in the afternoon the Theatro SoHs, which appeared to me finer and more admirably arranged than any theatre in London, and second only to the Grand Opera House at Paris. It is very handsomely decorated inside, and has four rows of boxes, besides stalls, pit, and gallery. One tier of boxes is reserved solely for the use of ladies, and is provided with a separate entrance, at which gentlemen are not admitted. Unfortunately we were unable to witness a performance at the theatre, as the house is only open during the winter months. Many of tlie best French and Italian companies pay periodical visits to the place. On Thursday, October 20, I started upon a short expe- dition into the interior of Uruguay. Leaving Monte Vided from the Central Eailway station, I travelled by train to San Jose, past Canelones and St Lucia. The distance is only 60 miles, but the journey occupied over three hours, though our train was called " express." The line passed through a level country, which appeared to be in a high state of cultivation ; and I understood from a fellow-passenger that arable farming there returned on an a\erage from 10 to 15 per cent per annum on invested capital. After leaving St Lucia the line makes a fearfully sharp curve and then crosses a long iron bridge. San Josd is the third city in Uruguay, and contains about 6000 inhabitants. It is, however, a very poor-looking town, badly paved, and worse lighted. There is no gas in the place. Soon after sunrise next morning I left San Jose in a primitive, tumble-down, old conveyance, which was dignified by the title of diligence. It was drawn by four horses, and was capable of carrying nine passengers besides the driver. Our D tt m mi ^B 26 A SWISS COLONY. i. i ri way lay over a remarkably fine agricultural country, the well-cultivated fields being of vast extent and enclosed by substantial wire fences. The crops, which were principally wheat, looked thriving and healthy, and everything seemed to betoken prosperity. So rich is the soil that the farmers never manure it ; though this siate of things cannot last for ever. We stopped to breakfast at a place called Colonia Piiuline, which stood in the midst of a pasture district. Here we changed diligences, and proceeded to Colonia Suiza, which was reached about 1.30 P :.i. The distance from San Jose was 36 miles, and we had taken seven hours to cover the journey. The road was in many places shockingly bad, and nowhere could it be described as good. I put up at the Hotel Suiza, a most comfortable little inn, with a Frencliman as host. The colony, as its name implies, is composed almost ex- clusively of Swiss immigrants. It had been in existence for twenty-six years at the time of my visit to it, and was in a highly flourishing condition. The colonists keep rigidly to themselves, nfiver intermarrying with the natives of Uruguay. They have their own church and their own schools, and main- tain their individual and national characteristics. Most of them, however, have lost their rights of citizenship through their long absence from their native country, and are now, together with their children, naturalised Uruguayan subjects. After lunch, mine host of the Hotel Suiza drove me some little distance, to call on two brothers who possessed an cstancia of 25,000 acres, upon which they had a magnificent flock of 18,000 sheep, besides a herd of 4000 cattle. They had been in the country for seven years, and were reputed to be doing remarkably well. We found them both busily engaged in sheep-shearing; and I was informed that they worked harder than any of their iwons, or farm-labourers. We afterwards visited a small German brewery, which was also doing a thriving business in the colony. CONDITIONS OP FARMING IN URUCJUAY, 27 ntry, the closed by rincipally [ one of the sights of Monte Video. This was the Sunday morning fair, which is held in the Caille 18 de Julio. The whole length of the street was lined with booths on either side, and an extraordinarily gay and busy scene was going on. Meat, fruit, vegetables, poultry, and pet birds seemed to be the principal articles of trade ; though all s(»its and conditions of things were being offered for sale besides. In the afternoon we went for a ride. The horses in Monte Video are fine animals, all entire, mares being never ridden. I was told •that they would not trot, but I had no difficulty with my animal in that respect. We first went to the Prado, a public I hii it -' ■' : . -i i > It, :| 1 : t ii I < •{ ! i 1 i ' i ■ ' f 28 THE BULL-EING AND SALADEROS park, some five miles out of tlie town, well laid out, and pro- vidtd with an excellent restaurant. Thence we rode on to another park, known as the Villa Colon, which is entirely natural, no attem]>t at artificial improvement having heen made upon it. This seemed to us a most judicious arrange- ment, as the native heauties of the park were striking and effective, several fine avenues of hlue-green trees crossing it in difierent directions. The gale continued next day, and I spent the morning and afternoon ashore. Mr H., the manager of the London and Brazilian liank, had entered my name as a visitor at the English Club, and I found this act of cou»- y a great comfort and convenience to me during n) ^y. The club is small, but exceedingly pleasant, and is acconnnodated with reading, smoking, billiard, and cad rooms. I spent the greater portion of my morning there, and, after lunching with tiie H.'s, we visited the great and well-known bull-ring of -Jonte Video. It is an enormous building, capable of seat- ing 10,000 people, and situated six miles out of the town. During the winter, bull-fights take place here every Sunday, and some of the best Spanish matadors are engaged for these contests, the bulls themselves being, for the most part, imported from Spain. For some days previous to a fight, the bulls are kept in dark stalls, divided by movable partitions. These partitions are hoisted up by men standing on a platform above the stalls, when the bulls are to be let loose into the arena. We were allowed to inspect the saddlery, lances, and other equipments used by the picadors in the bull-fights ; and various technical details connected with these sanguinary displays were minutely explained to us. On the morrow we were taken by Mr L., agent of the P.S.N.C, in his launch., across to the Cerro, where we visited the saladcros, or slaughter-houses. These are of two kinds, the one for killing mares and the other for killing cattle. The former are slaughtered for the sake of their hides, their jent of the e we visited two kinds, Uiiig cattle. hides, their OF MONTE VIDEO. 29 and pro- de on to entirely ing been arrange- king and rossing it rning and ndon and or at the Y a great ,y. The uiinodated spent the ■ lunching a bull-ring ble oi: seat- the town, ry Sunday, d for these •t.imported le bulls are ,ns. These a platform Dse into the lances, and bull -fights -, sanguinary % ilesli being boiled down for grease. It is rumoured that the so-called " Paysandu ox - tongues " are generally those of mares ; but I have had no means of verifying the trutli of tliis report. I therefore simply give it for what it is wortli. Tlie arrongements for killing cattle are neat and excellent. The animal is confined in a pen, on a level with the door of wliicli is a platform running upon rails. A lasso Is thrown over the animal's liead, and he is drawn out on to the plat- form, which is made to pass under a stand, Thu butclier, who is stationed upon this stand, plunges a long knife into the victim's spine as he passes luiderneath, and instantan- eous death invariably ensues. The carcass is immediately (h'awn along tlie rails to the cutting-up department ; and so rapid is the process, so ingenious the machinery, that tivo minutes usually suffice for catching, killing, and cutting up an ox ! We were unable to witness the process, as the sala- dcros were not working at that season of the year. AVednesday, October 26, was spent in social visits and enter- tainments, and on the Thursday afternoon we set sail from Monte Video, having enjoyed a delightful ten days' visit to the capital of Uruguay, thanks to the kindness and hospital- ity which we received from every one, and most especially from our good friends at the London and Brazilian Bank. i 1 i 30 CHAPTER y. CONTRARY WINDS — SLOW PASSAGE KUEVO GULF PATAGONIA A HAUL OF FISH AN INDIFFERENT DAY's (SPORT PORT MADRYN COMMENCEMENT OP TROUBLES WITH THE SAILORS — TRELEW A WELSH COLONY AN EXTRAVAGANT aND BADLY MANAGED RAILWAY A SHOAL OF PORPOISES — WHALES — FINE WEATHER. October 27-Novcmbcr 17, 18S7. We decided not to prooecd farther up the Eio de hi Plata to Buenos Ayres, but continued our southerly course, making for the Welsh colony on the shore of Nuevo Gulf. The distance to this place from Monte Video was 630 miles, and with a fair wind we hoped to complete the passage in four days. As it was, however, we encountered unfavourable weather, the wind leing dead against us for forty-eight hours ; and for another twenty-five hours we were virtually becalnieu. Consequently, although we left Monte Video on Tiuirsday, October 27, we did not sight Delgada Point on the peninsula of San Josef, which encloses Nuevo Gulf on the northern and eastern sides, until November 3, exactly one week after setting sail. No event of special interest occurred upon the voyage, except that one evening, whilst setting the mainsail, the boom took charge and knocked down the after binnacle, smashing the bowl. The weather was considerably colder than any which we had met with since leaving England, and for the first time upon our voyage we had a fire in the saloon. NUEVO GULF : A HAUL OP FISH. 31 At various intervals we saw great flocks of Cape pigeons and albatross, and on one occasion a sea-lion came within a hundred yards of the yacht. The sun was eliining brightly on the morning of Thursday, November 13, and the temperature had again become quite warm when we entered Nuevo Gulf, and beat up to our an- chora"e against a head-wind from the west. We had been in sight of the coast of Patagonia for several hours previously ; but the prospect had been very dull and uninteresting, con- sisting of one unbroken line of white cliffs, from 50 to 100 feet high. At 7 p.m. we anchored in Pyramid Bay, in seven fathoms of water, and about a* mile from the shore. This bay was visited by Mr Lambert in 1880, who in his enter- taining book, ' The Voyage of the Wanderer,' mentions the fishing here to be very good. Accordingly, after dinner I landed in the dingy to haul the seine, and was enabled to corroborate to the full Mr Lambert's testimony upon this point. We had a most successful trial, catching in three hauls about 2 cwt. of excellent fish. The majority were a kind of large smelt, called incmray, and there were a dozen or more very large-sized fish, greatly resembling cod. The country bordering on the bay in this neighbourhood is entirely uninhabited. Next day I landed early, ho; ing to have a good day's sport. Two of my men accompanM^d me, armed with rifles and revolvers, in case of our enco' ntering any hostile Indians. We climbed the cliff, at the summit of whicli we found an undulating plain of a sandy nature and with a wretchedly poor soil. The vegetation consisted chiefly of coarse grass growing in patches and small thorn-bushes. Mr Lambert described the district as suitable for sheep and cattle ; but our experience of it was of a diametrically opposite char- acter. After walking along for about two miles we came across some animals, which we imagined to be a species of small deer. We could not get very near them, but I was i r.i I |i 5 r 3_ !! 32 AN INDIFFERENT DAYS SPORT. fortunate enough to kill one with a shot from my express rifle at the distance of over 120 yards. It proved to be a Mara or Patagonian cavij, resembling somewhat a gigantic hare. We saw several more of these animals during the day, but they were very shy, and we were unable to get nearer to them than from 150 to 200 yards. We also sighted four guanacos; but the country is not adapted to stalking, and we could not get within 1000 yards of them. The only other game which we put up was a brace of par- tridges, apparently very much the same as our English birds. On the whole, I was decidedly disappointed with the result of oui day's excursion, as I had been led from Mr Lambert's account to expect an abundant supply of game. We found several broken eggs of the rhca, or American ostrich, but we could see no trace of the birds themselves. Nor did we see anything of the two lakes mentioned by Mr Lambert. In fact, we did not come across the slightest trace of any water. We reached the shore again at five o'clock, and I strolled along the beautiful sandy beach for a couple of hours, to see whetlier I could pick up any objects of curiosity. There was a great deal of drift-wood lying about, and the lower part of the cliffs was filled with prodigious quantities of oyster and clam shells, the low-water rocks being also cov- ered with mussels. The only thing which I really picked up, however, was a sponge belonging to a 64-pounder gun, which must have fallen overboard from some man-of-war and been washed ashore. At dinner we had some of the fish which we had caught in the seine the evening before, and we found them very excellent eating. On Saturday, November 5, we got under way and sailed across the gulf to Port Madryn, which is the harbour for tlie Welsh colony of Chupat. A Norwegian barque was lying in the harbour when we arrived. On going ashore in the afternoon we were met by two Englishmen, Messrs B. & G., PORT MADRYN. 33 who were superintending the construction of a railway from the port to Chupat. They took us for a stroll, and sliov/ed us the progress of the works. Besides the rough huts erected by the railroad employes, there were only four houses in the place, including the future railway station. The con- struction of this line was commenced in May 1886, and it was expected to be open for traffic in May 1888. The whole length of tlie line was to be 43 miles. An English company had undertaken its construction and management ; and from what we could see, it appeared as if everything was being conducted on a most extravagant scale. The engines and rolling stock had all been manufactured in England, sent out in pieces, and put together here. Tlie carriages, which were already finished, were Pullman cars of the most handsome type, fitted up according to all the latest improvements. Considering that (lie railway is simply intended for the accommodation of a few Welsl eolunists, who live in a most rough-and-ready fashion, it cerLuiiily did seem little short of ridiculous to see the magnificent rullmaii ■ arriages. Messrs B. & G. complained greatly of the insolence and disconont displayed by the Welshmen who had been employed on the line, the conduct of whom had at length become so insup- portable that they had all been discharged from the work, and Italians had been imported to take their places. These were proving far more satisfactory in every way, and goml progress was being made with tlie work at the time ol mr visit to the place. Tlie great difficulty connected with the undertaking was the absolute deficiency of fresh water, every drop of which had to be brought from Chupat. Several borings had been made in various parts, some of which we witnessed in operation ourselves; but they had all been unsuccessful up to that time. Whether water has since been discovered or not, I am unable to say. During our stay at Port Madxyn the first troubles of our voyage began, in the shape of a disagree:..ant with the £ mt^^K^mmmmm _. — .J— i.^— , I 5 « P i!. i !! I 34 TRELEW. sailing-master. This man evinced a spirit of independence and insolent self-will, which occasioned me at the time no little uneasiness as to its effect upon the rest of the crew, and which shortly afterwards culminated in a manner presently to be described. However, upon this occasion I managed to make matters straight, with no worse result than the inconvenience of being prevented from landing for the greater part of one day. On Monday, November 7, we were conducted by Mr G. over the line to Trelew, the terminus for the Welsh colony. The passenger carriages had not yet commenced to run ; so chairs were placed in a brake-van. and we had really a very comfortable journey. The scenery was uninteresting in the extreme, with nothing but sandy plains on either side, studded about with stunted bushes. "VVe could not help recalling with commiseration and pity the difficult and wearisome experiences of Mr Lambert and his pnrty, which are so graphically described in his interesting book. The line, which was not in existence at the time of his visit, is almost perfectly straight ; and as there are neither bridges nor tunnels, it cannot have been very difficult to construct Mr G. informed us that there was an intention to extend it at some future time, so as to open up inland communica- tion with Buenos Ayres vid Patagones. On arriving at Trelew we found a letter of invitation from Mr Lewis Jones, the head of the colony, awaiting us ; but it was too late that night to visit him, and we stayed ac- cordingly at a homely but very comfortable inn, which had lately been opened near the railway terminus by a Welsh- man and his wife. During the night rain fell heavily, but the morning broke clear and fine. We rose at G.30 a.m., and went off to a lake about half a mile from the inn, in the hope of having some duck- shooting. We saw a great quantity of these birds, as also some very handsome swans with beautiful black necks and A WELSH COLONY. 35 ependence le time no : the crew, a manner occasion I 'orse result landing for d by Mr G. elsU colony, a to riui ; so really a very iteresting in I either side, dd not help difficult and pprty, which g book. The of his visit, either bridges to construct ton to extend cominunica- ivitation from liting us; but we stayed ac- iin, which had by a Welsh- 11 heavily, but ike about half ilonise the islands, which were in Consequence claimed by the Argentine Eepublic, who estab- lished a settlement at Tort Louis in 1820. During a dispute between that republic and the United States in 1831, the latter destroyed the colony. Once again the British flag was lioisted on the Isles in 1833, and since that time they have been efiectively occupied by the English. The seat of government was i-emoved from Port Louis to Stanley in 1844. The group consists of two main islands, called respectively East and West Falkland, and about one hundred other AN UNPLEASANT INCIDENT. 48 were closer ormed opt in I there There nod to (ticed a lit of a ad been not yet /idently ' sailors' les does ?, It is Captain ley were ley were colony ars later m their in 1771. were in 10 estab- a dispute ISSl.the itii^h flag ime they le seat of anley in spectively red other smaller islets. The total area of the whole group does not exceed GuOO square miles. The climate is hlerk and boister- ous, and owing to the prevalence of strong winds no trees or crops can be raised. The thermometer varies from 30° to 50° Fahr. in the winter, and from 40 ' to 60" in the summer. An enormous quantity of rain falls, and an average of 240 days in the year arc registered as " wet." The islands are mountainous, the highest point — viz., the summit of Mount Adam — being 2ljl5 feet above the level of the sea. The soil is chiefly peat, which is used for fuel. The population num- bered 811 in 1871, and 1843 in 1887, 850 of the latter residing in Stanley. A mail arrives and leaves for Europe once a-month by the Hamburg Kosmos S.N.C. Altogether, we should scarcely be inclined to recommend the Falkland Islands as a desirable place of residence for those who are at liberty to choose for themselves. On Friday, November 18, the day after our arrival at Stanley, a highly unpleasant incident occurred. My sailing- master, with whom, as I have mentioned above, I had already had some little trouble, accosted me bluntly whnn I came on deck in the morring, and infornicd me that he had determined not to leave the harbour until I had dis- missed one of the servants to whom he had taken a dislike. Apart from my unwillingness to be browbeaten by my own cviployd in this manner, I felt no inclination to accede to his demand, for I had found nothing worthy of blame in the conduct of the servant referred to. I therefore told the fellow that 1 should certainly do nothing of the kind ; and I warned him that he was not at liberty to leave me thus at a moment's notice, and that if he persisted in his deter- mination I should prosecute him for breach of contract and insubordination of conduct. Upon this the man completely lost his temper, and passionately made use of the most violent and abusive language towards me in the presence and hearing of several of the sailors upon deck. To put an ^4 s I 44 ENFORCED DELAY. end to this scene I went ashore and reported the matter to the shipping-master, who sent a message forthwith to the yacht summoning the offender before him. The man took no notice of this summons, and not until another messenger had been despatched for him, some three hours later, did he condescend to put. in an appearance. He was then consider- ably the worse for drink, and was most argumentative and irrepressible. The shipping-master informed him that he had, by his refusal to take my vessel out of harbour, ipso facto dismissed himself. He was accordingly ordered to return on board to pack up his things, and to be ready to quit at 5 r.M. During all the time that he remained on boai'd he was very noisy and troublesome, using foul language, and annoying everybody ; and it was with the greatest difliculty, and only after threatening to send for the police, that we finally sr^cceeded in getting rid of him. Three days after, I settled up with him and paid him off, he being so drunk meanwhile that it was impossible to attempt to reckon up with him. He left the island on the following day by *^he Kosmos Company's s.s. Setos. Tliis unpleasant contretemps necessitated my despatching a cablegram to England for a new sailing-master, and delayed us at Stanley for three months. It was not until tlie 10th cf the following February tiiat we were able once again to put out to sea. The prospect of this long delay was not very inviting, but, with one trifling exception, all hands on board acquiesced in the inevitable with excellent grace ; and after all, we found so many friends, and received such kindness on every side, that the time passed away far more pleasantly and rapidly tlian any of us at first cnticipated. H.M.S. Swallow was lying at anchor in the harbour during the greater part of our sojourn at Stanley, and Captain F. and her other officers contributed in no small degree to relieve the te-ium of our waiting-time. We also had the opportunity of s/aining a further insight into the condition, AN IMPROVING COLONY. 45 luring capabilities, and prospects of the islands, and made the very figreeable acquaintanceship of the Messrs Dean, who possess the chief ship-repairing yard, as also of the Eev. Lowther Brandon, the colonial chaplain fit Stanley. The latter preached us excellent sermons on the Sundays, though since the unfortunate destruction of his church his congregations have been very small. He was making strenuous efforts to raise a fund for the rebuilding of the church, in which he was being ardently supported by the bishop of the diocese. The latter, however, appeared to us to be far too ambitious and extravagant in his aims, for he had insisted upon the raising of £7000, a sum of money which seemed a great deal in excess of the requirements of that small settlement. Already £3000 had been subscribed or promised, and I could not help thinking that this was amply sufficient. After lunch, on our first Sunday in Stanley, we walked out to see the new reservoir which was in course of con- struction, in order to enable the water for the use of the colony to be obtained from a fresh source, that hitherto in use having been condemned as unwholesome and dangerous. During this walk we learned that the whole of the land in the colony had been already taken up, with the exception of 600,000 acres belonging to the Falkland Islands Company, which was freehold. The land is held on a nineteen years' lease from the Crown, the present rental being £10 per 6000 acres. No leases will be renewed at the expiration of their term for a smaller sum than £20 p"r 6000 acres, and in many cases the rentals will be raised to £25 and upwards. This improvement in the value of property was in a great nieasure due to the governor, ]Mr Kerr, who, during the seven years that he had held his office, had enormously improved the financial position of the colony. Exports had risen from £20,000 per annum in 1870 to £108,000 per annum in 1887, and imports from £21 ,000 to £67,000. The '14 46 FREEDOM FROM CRIME. I colony was entirely self-supporting, and there was no public debt whatever. The only tax was that on dogs, but licences had to be taken out by publicans. Import duties were charged on wine and spirits and tobacco at much the same rates as those in England. The exports consisted almost entirely of wool, sheep-farming being the principal occupa- tion of the colony. The islands were almost free from crime, though drunkenness seemed to prevail to a more than average extent. This, no doubt, was mainly due to the unnecessarily large number of public-houses, which I have already noticed above. Mnior charges were settled by the police magistiuLe, the more serious cases and those of appeal being adjudicated upon by a supreme court, presided over by tlie governor, and provided witli a jury. Capital punish- ment was allowed for the crime of murder, but only one execution had ever taken place in the colony. Coroners' iiK^uests were held in cases of necessity, similar in all respects to those in England, except that the number of jurymen was restricted to six. A detachment of raorines was formerly stationed at Stanley, but in 1879 they were withdrawn ; and the welfare of the colony is intrusted to the care of a few policemen, who are for the most part old army or navy pensioners. A very strong feeling of loyalty to the old country prevails througliout the Falkland Islands, a strong evidence whereof has been afforded by the liberal sum of £280 which has been subscribed for the Imperial Institute, and which signifies more than 3s. per head of the population. We doubt whether this proportion will be equalled throughout the wide extent of the British empire. There are no roads throughout the islands, with the exception of a short one through the settlement at Stanley. On Tliursday, November 24, I visited the Bidston Hill, a fine four-masted ship that had been lying at Stanley for the last seven months undergoing repairs. She Imd met with . ( J H.M.S. SWALLOW. 47 itlie II, a I the ath terrific weather whilst doubling Cape Horn, and her top- masts and top-gallant-masts with all gear attached had been completely carried away. The repairs had been executed by the Messrs Dean, and the master of the ship pronounced the work to have been excellently done. The work-people, how- ever, had been outrageously slow and leisurely in their operations ; and the cost of everything had been luost exorbitant. The ship-carpenters received 16s. 9d. and the blacksmiths 20s. per day ; whilst every man was paid 3s. per hour for overtime. Altogether the repairs to the ship had cost £9500, a sum which seemed ridiculously high. The weather at this period was exceedingly disagreeable, heavy rain falling day after day, accompanied not uu- frequently by strong, cold gales. I went asliore most days ; but there was little chance of seeing anything, and pool at Government House occupied the greater part of our time. During the finer intervals we frequently strolled in the governor's gardens, which were well stocked with European vegetables and with s'^rawberries, melons and cucumbers being grown under glass. We were amused by being shown a small apple preserved in spirits, and regarded as a great curiosity, as being the only one ever produced in the colony. H.M.S. Swallow arrived on Friday, November 25, and next day we were introduced to Captain F. at Government House. That same afternoon H. went out shooting, and brought back three fine geese and about a dozen dotterel. "Wild-fo./l abound in certain parts of the islands, and good sport can often be obtained. Three species of geese are met with here — the upland, the brent, and the kelp. The last-named is a very handsome bird, but is (piite unfit for food. The duck tribe is represented by widgeon, teal, pampas-teal, grey ducks, and steamer-ducks, the last two sorts being inedible. Black- necked swans are also occasionally to be met with, but they are somewhat rare. Snipe, on the other hand, are very abundant. The islands are famous for their sea-birds, included in :if1 8 ,13 F.*5S '1 n n i^ 1.11 ' .. -i PI t 48 SEALS — A DAY S SHOOTING. wliich are to be found moUymauks, shags, clivers, red and white-breasted grebes. Cape-hens, gulls, and penguins. There are several varieties of gulls, one in particular with a bright pink breast being especially beautiful. The penguins are of three sorts — the king, the gentoo, and the rocky penguin. Wild horses, cattle, and pigs exist in some parts, as also guanaco, goats, and rabbits. These, however, are not indig- enous, but are the descendants of those animals which were brought to the islands at the times of the French and Spanish occupations, and which were left free to roam at will when those colonies were destroyed. T!ie cattle are now reduced to a few herds, wliicli are exceedin; ly wild and difficult to approach. Neither are the wild horses or pigs very numerous, and it is probable that they will all become extinct before the expiration of many years. Foxes were formerly exist- ent here in great abundance, but they have been entirely killed off, on account of the ravages which they wrought amongst the young lambs ; and not a single fox is now to be found. Hares and rabbits, however, are constantly increas- ing, though it is a curious fact that notwithstanding the perfectly healthy condition in which they are, the former breed is visibly diminishing in size. The hair-seal frequents the coasts, and large " rookeries " of these marine animals are to be found on some of the minor islands. The fur-seal was also very abundant at one time, but owing to the reckless and indiscriminate slaughter that ensued for many years, the breed was nearly exter- minated. Now the seals are rigidly protected between the mouths of October and Apiil, and a heavy penalty is exacted for killing them during the close season. On Wednesday, November 30, we went across to a place called Sparrow Cove, in Mr Dean's steam-launch, for the puj pose of having a day's shooting. We were accompanied by Captain F. and three other olticers of the Swallow ; but the result of the day's sport vnis rather disappointing, our SUBMARINE MINING OPERATIONS. 49 tee ihe led lut lur total bag consisting only of six geese, three hares, and one snipe. We visited a rookery of gentoo penguins, and tliere we saw a curious and interesting spectacle. The nests, if so they may be called, consisted of slight depressions in the ground, close together, and in regular lines about a foot apart. Each nest, as a rule, contained two eggs, and the mother-birds refused to leave tliem until they were actually driven off. They then waddled away with an absurd gait a short distance up the hill, keeping up all the while an un- earthly and discordant screeching, and snapping at us with their long bills. The newly-hatched chicken penguins were cui'ious ugly little things covered witli a greyish down. The day after our shooting excursion, a dance was given by the pe^ty officers and men of H.]\I.S. Swallow in a sail- loft. The room was very prettily decorated with flags, and dancing was kept up with great vigour and spirit till the early hours of the morning. Sahirday, December 3. — Lunched v/ith Captain F. on board the Swallow, and afterwards witnessed some interesting sub- marine mining operations. A cask was moored at a certain diatance from the ship, and this was the imaginary obstruc- tion which had to be blown up. The charge consisted of 20 lb. of gun-cotton, and it was fired by electricity. A column of water ascended some 80 to 100 feet into the air with a very fine effect, and nothing more was seen of the cask 1 On the following morning we attended divine service on board the Swallow, the hymns being extremely well sung by the officers and men ; and in the afternoon we decided to start the following morning in company with the Swallow, to visit some of the minor islands belonging to the Falkland group, and to endeavour to get some shooting on them. Accordingly, at 10 a.m. on Monday, December 5, we once again weighed anchor for a while, and headed out of the harbour towards the open sea. i i i is 1l I lis 50 CHAPTER VII. AN EXCURSION AMONG THE FALKLAND ISLANDS LIVELY ISLAND — GOOD SPOUT — A COUPLE OF ACCIDENTS — SPEEDWELL ISLAND A PENGUIN -UOOKEnV " SHAGS " GEORGE ISLAND PIG- SHOOTING A NATIVE Mi:yU A SEA-LION — PORT DARWIN — CHRISTMAS DAY — ANOTHER UNPLEASANT INCIDENT — NEW-YEAu's EVE. Deceviber 5-31, 1SS7. On rounding Cape Pembroke we saw the Swallow waiting for us ; and immediately upon our appearance she signalled to us, offering to take us in tow. To this we readily agreed, as the wind was against us, and we should have been obliged to beat the whole way. As it was, we w -re comfortably towed ^iuiip at about six knots an hour, and at 7 p.m. we anchored in Kelp Bay, Lively Islfind, where there is a settlement, which was not, however, visible from our anchorage. Pre- vious to our arrival in the bay we had passed some rather pretty and striking scenery, which was enlivened by exten- sive clumps of the handsome tussac-grass whicli grew in many places to a hieght of seven or eight feet. A short but heavy hailstorm broke over us just before we came to anchor, the hailstones being of enormous size. In the evening Captain F. came on board our yacht, accom- panied by the Messrs C, who had leased the whole of Lively Island from the Falkland Islands Company, and had over 10,000 sheep grazing upon it. These gentlemen invited A COUPLE OF ACCIDENTS. 51 It, te- [n- us to tlieir house for the following day, and accordingly we went ashore at 9 a.m. in the Swallow's steam-cutter, with several of tlie officers of the ship. The house belonging to Messrs C. was close to the landing-place, and was the only one upon the island. Though small and huilt of wood, it was very comfortable inside. After a good breakfast, we started forth for a dav's shooting, which turned out most enjoyable and successfu\ There were an enormous number of snipe on the island, aid they were so tame that we had almost to kick them up. Geese were also exceedingly abundant, and we couL^ bave shot any quantity of them, as they allowed us to gel >|uite close to them ; but they were unfit to eat at that season of the year, and we therefore let them alone. In the afternoon we had some excellent sport at a pond with teal and widgeon ; and on our return to the settlement at G p.m. we found that we had bagged, with eight guns, fifty couple of snipe, twenty-one teal, and six widgeon. The next day we resumed our shooting, and our bag, with the same number of guns, consisted of thirty-live teal, three widgeon, and ten couple of snipe. It proved, however, rather an unfortunate day so far as I was personally concerned, for a couple of accidents happened to me. The ponds where we shot were at some distance from the landing-place, and Mr C. had therefore kindly provided horses for us to ride. The animal alhjtted to me was a young one, only partially broken in, and never ridden but once before in its life. As I was mounting, and before I could settle myseii in the saddle, the creature commenced to buck violently, and threw me heavily to the ground. Though considerably shaken, I was uninjured, and on the second attempt I succeeded in getting safely astride of her, and soon she became docile and quiet. The other unfortunate contretemps occurred in the afternoon. I peppered Captain F. in mistake for a teal ! " All's well that ends well," is a saying of much comfort, and, happily, from neither of these accidents did anv serious results follow. "tf 1r-* " »~» j^* rr • 1 4o7 52 SPEEDWii^LL i3LAXD. On the following morning, Thursday, December 8, we were under way at 5 a.m., in tow of the Swallow, bound for Speedwell Island, another of the group. On our way we passed the Star of Scotia, a barque which had been wrecked about three months previously. All her masts and spars were standing, and she looked as if she had really sustained no damage. The rocks were, however, I was told, sticking up through her keel. The crew deserted her when she struck, and went off in two boats. Tiiat commanded by the captain reached the shore in safety, but the one in charge of the mate was capsized, every man in her being drowned. She was laden with wheat, and after the wreck, was bought by AVilliams, of Stanley, for £25. We reached Speedwell Island at 2.30 p.m., and I went ashore with Captain F., where we were met on landing by Mr ^Y., the manager of the Messrs C. These gentlemen rented the greater part of this island, in addition to Lively Island, which we had just visited, and here they had as many as 12,000 sheep on their farm. Some of our party went for a couple of hours' shooting that same afternoon, and suc- ceeded in bagging six and a half couple of snipe, fourteen rabbits, and three teal — not a bad result for so short a time. Leaving our yacht at anchor next day, we went on board the Swallow to a bay about six miles away, on the north- west side of the island, where we were informed that we should have an excellent day's sport with rabbits. As soon as we landed, we perceived that the prospects which had been held out to us were likely to be realised, for at once we found ourselves in the presence of a vast quantity of rabbits, which were uncommonly tame. There was no cover of any kind, but the sport was redeemed from simple slaughter by the tufts of old tussac-grass, round which the rabbits con- tinually dodged, thus rendering the shooting somewhat dit!icult. Notwithstanding this, with nine guns we had bagged 376 rabbits, six and a half couple of snipe, and four M-~»«~-wir.r A PENGUIN-ROOKERY. 53 it Id teal, wlien we left off shooting at four o'clock in the after- noon. We returned to our anchorage off the settlement, arriving there about 6.30 r.M. The weather had been rough and boisterous all day, but it had not greatly interfered with the enjoyment of our sport. Next morning the sun shone brightly. The wind had gone down, and we had a lovely day. We went ashore at 10 a.m., in order to enjoy another day's shooting. ]\Ir W. had kindly provided horses for us, and we rode off across the island in the direction of the bay, where we had landed the day before. The rabbits were again very plentiful ; but they were much wilder than those we had encountered before. Nevertheless we had very fair sport; our bag amounting to 150 rabbits, three and a half couple of snipe, two teal, and one widgeon. We saw a great number of silver-grey-coloured rabbits on this day, and in the course of our ride we came across a very remarkable penguin-rookery. From 3000 to 4000 birds, at tlie lowest estimate, were sitting on their nests, and they appeared greatly to resent our approach. This was scarcely to be wondered at, for a shepherd informed us that the eggs were excellent eating, and that all the people in the settlement robbed the nests extensively. We did not taste the eggs ourseives ; but I see no reason why they should not be good, though probably thoy would be somewhat fishy antl strong. The next day being Sunday, we went to service on board the Swallow at 10 a.m., several of the officers returning with us afterwards to lunch on board our yacht. In the after- noon we walked to a " shag " rookery, and examined several of the young birds. They were curious, ugly little creatures, with skins perfectly black and as smooth as leather ; there were neither feathers nor down upon their bodies. Several of us were anxious to try another day's shooting over the same ground which we had traversed on the Satuiday, and we therefore remained at Speedwell Island over Monday, 54 PIG-SHOOTING. Deccmbei' 12. On that day, with seven },nins, \vc bagged 170 rabbits, ten couple of snipe, five teal, and two widgeon ; but we found the animals distinctly wilder, no doubt owing to the havoc which we had previously wrouglit amongst them. Tuesday y Dec. 13. — We got under way at 8 A.M., and pro- ceeded to yet another island leased by the Messrs ('., which we reached in a couple of hours. This was called George Island, and our ancliorage was named Owen lioads. Messrs C. had no live stock there when we visited it, but wild pigs were said to be very abundant. We landed in high spirits, in expectation of an exciting day's sport ; and our party looked uncommonly formidable, for we had several blue- jackets with us armed with boarding-pikes. We soon came across traces of pigs in the long tussac-grass, which covered a considerable portion of the island ; but owing to its height, we experienced great ditticulty in catching a sight of any of the animals. Mr M., however, to whom I had lent my 10- bore riHe, got a snap shot at a pig, after wo had been walking through the grass for some considerable time. The bullet struck the animal in the side, breaking five ribs and the spinal column, and coming out through the neck, just below the ear. It proved to be a huge black sow, bearing a marked resemblance to the ungainly hogs of inferior breed which are to be seen about the cottages in many parts of Ireland. There were none of the characteristics of a wild boar about it ; and probably these pigs, like the wild horses and cattle on the main island, are the remains of a domestic breed introduced by settlers in the eighteenth century. This was, unfortunately, the only pig which we secured ; and as the rain began to fall heavily after luncheon, and the afternoon gave every appearance of being excessively dis- agreeable, we decided to give over shooting, and returned on board with nothing but that one sow and six and a half couple of snipe to show as the result of our day's sport. A A NATIVE MKXr. 55 violent squall broke over us soon after our arrival on boaril, and for a lime it seemed impossible that we should be able to keep an engagement which we had form id to dine with the captain of the Swallow, .dthough the distance between our vessels was only 300 yards. However, we did manage at last to make the passage, with no more inconvenience than a thorough drenching, which made us feel uncommonly limp when we received the captain's greeting on the deck. How- ever, a good dinner and plenty of champagne thoroughly revived our si)irits, and by the time that we bade adieu to our friendly host, the weathei- had again beconui calm and pleasant. The vimu of the dinner is worth recording ; fen- everything, except the cntrcmdK, had been procuud upon the island. Here it is : — Goose Soup. Sahui of Teal. Snipe-pie. Roast Hare. C^urrant Pufl's. Cheese. '% 5 m llf Our comrade the Swallow left early next morning for Port iJarwin, the second settlemcmt in the Falkland Islands. We remained behind for another day, being anxious to visit a sea-lion rookery which, as we had been informed, existed upon Barren Island, a short distance away from George Island. We started for the spot i i the steam-launch; but, unfortunately, the whole island was surrounded by a dense impenetrable mass of kelp, through which the ])ropeller was unable to force its way. We were therefore compelled to give up the attempt, and returned to George Island, where I determined to try my luck once more at pig-shooting. I walked a long distance without meeting with any success, the only pig ^ met escaping my bullet by dodging behind a thick clump of tussac-grass. On my way back to the boat 1 shot three couple of snipe, and just as I was on the point of embarking, a large sea-lion showed its head above water. It dived immediately, but soon rose again to the surface, when f:_ I ■ r! :i •A; X 50 PORT DAUWIN. 1 1 I Hied at it with my express rUle, strikin;^ it fairly in the head. It sank at once, but the water was covered with blood min<,ded with brains. We procured a harpoon from the yacht and lashed it to a spar. Usinj,' this as a dra<(, we groped for the body, and after a little while we succeeded in bringing it to the surface. It was a very large-sized sea- lioness, and her head had l)een completely shattered by my bullet. On opening her body we found in her stomach a stone weighing more than ^ lb. The following day we returned to Lively Island, but the passage was disagreeable in the extreme, liain fell inces- santly all day, and we had a strong wind dead ahead of us, with a nasty sea rolling; in consequence of which, although we left our anchorage at 5 am., we did not reach our old quarters oil' Lively Island until seven o'clock in the evening. Fortunately we were favoured with better weather the next day, Friday, December 16 ; and, get*^ing under way at 10 A.M., we proceeded up Choiseul Sound to Port Darwin. The passage through the Sound was somewhat intricate, and at a place fitly named the " Narrows," the opening was only a cable and a half wide. We arrived off Port Darwin and anchored alongside the Swallow at 2,30 P.M. Shortly after- wards we went ashore, and visited the colony, which is next in importance to Stanley. It contained only eight houses, however, when we were there, in addition to a Free church and a school. Tlie whole population did not exceed 100 in number, but the settlement looked clean and thriving. A doctor was stationed there, in the pay of the Falkland Islands Company. The beauty of the place was greatly enhanced by a quantity of yellow gorse surrounding it on all sides, and, at the time of our visit, in full bloom. We called on the doctor, and afterwards made arrangements with one of the Company's cmploijds to go out after wild cattle on the fol- lowing day. This expedition, to which I had looked forward with PROFITABLE SHEKl'-FARMINO. 57 some interest and anticipation, proved, unfortunately, a com- plete failure ; for after GO miles' ride over an cxceedinj^ly rough country, and on tlio most uncomfortable horses which I have ever bestrode, we failed oven to find any traces of wild cattle. The sheplierds had hitely been collecting the sheep for shearing, and this was supposed to liave frightened the cattle away. As a matter of fact, however, I believe that, thougli tliey were at one time very abundant, there are now very ' few of tlieni left, they having been killed off to make way for the sheep. We saw several troops of wild horses — or rather of horses misnamed wild — which had been turned out sonu finv years before by Mr Lafone and the Falk- land Islands Company. The number of sheep in this district had nndtiplied enormously in the coarse of thirty years ; for whereas in 1855 there were but 55 altogether, in 1887 they amounted to over 150,000. Tlie annual loss is computed at 12 per cent; but notwithstanding this, the sheep-farming is profitable. At Goose CJreen, near the settlement, there were very large works on a complete scale, owned by tlie Company, for the purpose of boiling down sheep for tallow. We visited these works next day ; but they were, unfortunately, not in operation at the time. There was also a mutton-freezing establishment belonging to the Company, who have shipped large consignments of frozen meat to England ; but the venture has not been found to pay. We left Port Darwin at 5.30 a.m. on Monday, December 19, arriving at our old berth off Lively Island after three hours' sailing Mr C, who had accompanied us from George Island, went with myself aboard the Swallow, in which we steamed across to Middle Island, where we shot some cattle which had been turned out by j\[r C. a couple of years before. We found them very easy to approach, and shot six head, after which we skinned and cut them up, taking back with us as much beef as we could carry. Whilst we were lying off I'ort Darwin, some of the Swal- ^} 'i ■ ^ ' 58 ANOTHKH I Nl'LKASAXT INdUENT. V !i> i low's officers lind vory fair sport in fiMhiiif,', cntcliin;,' ii. ono (lay fiftt'cu do/en tit" trout, averagin;^' about \ 11>. ajiicee. Tlicsf! lisli ri'SciiiMtjil Kui^lish trout iu sIiuih? ; l)ut tlioy hud iHiitlu-r s 'vs nor spots, and their skins woro like those of eels. They were rt 'uarkahly sweet and pleasant to the tasti'. It was hlowiiij, a fresli hree/e, with a eonsiderahle sea on, when W(! sailed from I.ively Island ou Wednesday, Decendjer L'l, in order to return to our first quarters of!!' Staidey. The wind, however, was behind us the yreaier part of the way, and we ran alonj,' at a spanking pace tnitil wo roundeil Cape iVnibroke. Then the wind headiid us, and we had some ditliculty iu beating against it up to Stanley, whero wt; arrived at ndd-duy. The governor and his family weleomed us back with friendly warmth when we went ashore in the afternoon. I.ittle worthy of chronicling occurred during the next few days, which were maiidy sjient in preparations for Christmas Day. This festival occurred upon a Sunday ; and after going aboard the Swallow to oiler and receive the greetings of the .season, we attended church on shore, returning to l'..M.S, at half-past twidve, in order to visit the sailors at their Christ- mas dinner. AVe dined at (Jovernment House in che even- ing, giving up the yacht's .saloon to the officers and servants for the puri)o.se of entertaining their friend.s. My Christmas enjoyment was marred by an unpleasant incident which awaited me on my return to the yacht. The boatswain, Wyllie, had drunk himself into a condition of savage ferocity, and had assaulted the second mate and Si .- eral of the crew. As he wos not in a fit state that evening for the nialter to be discussed, 1 waited until the following day, when I had him up ; and after hearing the correct version of the whole affair, I fived him 10s., and disrated him for three months. The day after that, the chief ofiicer again had cause to complain of the conduct jf AVyllie, and I therefore felt myself compelled to dismiss him from ray service. These NEW- YEARS KVK KKSTIVITIKS. 69 unpleasant, episodes sadly mar the enjoyment of a voyage in one's private yacht ; liut it is, 1 imagine, inr-issihle tnwliolly ;,'uanl against them, and discipline must ne maintainiHl at all hazards. Wyllie did not long remain without employ- ni(!nt; for he obtained a -i. rth on board the Genesta, a local schooner belonging to the Falkland Islands Company, the day t'oUowing his discharge fmrn my yacht. On Friday, December 30, the Kosnios Company's steamer Luxor arrived, homeward bound, and we despatched our mails to England. On New- Year's Kve we had a festive gatherii'.g on board the yacht after dinner. The men sang songs in turn, con- cluding with a general chonis of "Auld Lang Syue" and " God save the CiUieen." The ship's bell was tolled at mid- night, to usher out the Old Year and to welcome in the Xew. Thus ended L^87. Since leaving riymouth we had sailed 8770 nautical miles, the total time spent at sea being eighty-two days and four hours ; so that we had run at an average rate of 107.00 knots 2)cr >(i'Ui. :^j GO CJIArTEU VIII. XEW-YEAUH DAY AXOTHKU KXCURSION FoX HAY (iHKAT l.SLAXI) HUOOLES ISLAND — EXCITING SI'ORT — -A NASTY ACCIDENT A liliANI) TUorilY n.M.S. FLAMINGO THE NEW SKIPI'F.H FAIfEWKM, TO THE KALKI.AXI. IStiANDS AT SEA ONCE .MoIiE THE STUAITS OF MAGELLAN— UHEGORV BAY. January l-Fcbruarij 17, /S,SS. I.S88. Jan. 1. — Tlio Xcw Year wus usliered in l»y a short, sharp shower, aft(!r which wo had a very pheasant day. It hoiny Sunday, we went to service on hoard the Swallow at 10 A.M., after which we lunched at Government House. In the al'ternoon we visited the mission yacht liichanl Williams, which was laid up close beside our vessel. She had been in disuse for some time, having been replaced by the Allan Clardner, and was in bad order through neglect. Xothing worthy of note occurred on the IMonday ; but on Tuesday, January 3, we started in our yacht for Jiuggles Island, another of the Falkland group, where we hoped to have some good sport with wild cattle. M., one of the olUc;'rs of the Swallow, accompanied us. It was one of the loveliest days which we had since arriving at the Falkland Island;' when we weighed anchor. There had, however, been a strong wind the day before, and consequently we en- countered a heavy head-sea as soon as we reached Cape rembroke. ]ly 11 A.M. th.i breeze had entirely died away, leaving us in a dead calm, which lasted throughout the rest I FOX HAY. Gl of the clay, altlioui,'!) tliere cont.imuil t«» 1h> a heavy swell, wliioh caused llu! yadit to roll coiisiilenihly. So little pro^'ress did we make in (•oiisetiuence, that hy 9 r.M. we had not advanced 10 knots upon our way, havinij actually drifted astern durinci; the last few hours. At that time, however, a nice hreeze sprani,' up, and for the next three hours we went alonj^ at a very fair j)ace, Ai^iiin tlu; wind dropped away at midnight, and l)y nine o'clock next morning we were only abreast of Lively Island. Another beautiful day ensued ; but for sailing purposes the weather was bad, for a dead calm lasted till late in the afternoon, and we did not pass Ihill Toint, at tlie southern extremity of I'^ast Falk- land Island, until 8 I'.M. A great cliange took place about five o'clock next morning, when tiie wind conmicnced to blow, increasing in violencie to a strong gale with a vcrv heavy sea. The atmosphere also was exceedingly thick; and we therefore made for the nearest place of slielter, an inlet of the seu on the K. coast of "W^est Falkland. The entrance to tiiis inlet, which is called Fox IJay, we found somewhat iniricate, with a dangerous reef and a smjll island in the midst. The force of the wind carried us into the bay at the rate of more than 12 knots an houi, and wo were very thankful wlien we had passed safely tlirough this oerilous passage, and fcaind our- selves at anchor ofT a small scitlemcnt called North Arm. On each side of the bay we saw a house and wool-sheds; but Lhe weather was too rougli to i»ermit of our landing. The Chance, a small yawl which carries 'he nu\ils between the diflerent islands, Jiad, li':<^ us, })ut in to this jiort to escape the stress of weather. The wind continued to blow with great violence all day and through the greater part of the ensuing night ; but the morning of Friday, January 0. broke clear and line ; and the sea had so iar moderated that wc got under way at 10 A.M., proceeding to Great Island, which we reached at hidf-past one. This island lies at the S. end of Falkland Sound, 62 UU«;(; F.KS ISLAND. between the two niaiiiliimls. Wi- all went nshoie to see Mr J)iivi(l Smith, ihc. Icssci; of Ifu^'i^lr.s Island, with whom we (U'sirt'tl (o make ainui^enients for our shootinj; cattle on the followin},' (lay. On landini,' we were au'reeahly surprised to see his liiother, Mr Christopher Smith, whom we had met at I'ort Darwin. Through the hitter's introduetion we were soon on friendly terms with the {.'entleman whom we had eunie to see, and who kindly ofl'ered to accomjjany us himself to Ku-^f^des island. Aecordinj^ly we re-end)arked in less than an hour, takinj,' in tow a small cutter containing two of Mr Jhivid Smith's men. We reached I{u;4,i,des Island about 3..'j0 A.M. on the morrow, hut we did not land until ten o'clock. We found Chris- topher Smith and Dr I), waitinj,' for us, iind we lost no time in settiuf,' forth upon our e.\i)edition. M. was armed with my 10-bore rille, whilst I carried a 500-bore express. Dr 1>. and the carpenter had smooth-bores. We took with us three men from the yacht, and several shepherds belonginif to the island also accompanied us. After widkin;,' for ab(»nt two miles, we saw a small herd of cattle, which we immediately proceeded to stalk. AVe succeeth'd in _t;ettin. and Mr J. of the Flamingo came to n)akc my a"r the next Kosmos boat, which was not due at Stanley until February 17. My new skipper, unfortu- nately, was very unwell on his arrival, and the doctor advised him to go ashore and remain there a few days until his iivalth was restored. The l)ishop of the FaiKland Islamls also arrived on b(>ard the Swallow, and (Japtain F. brought his lordship to call upon me. The llev. Mr !»., chaplain at Stan- ley, met with o serious accident the same day. A children's f^te had just been held, and Mr K was in the act of taking liown some sv, ings which had been erected for the fetv, when he fell heavily to the ground from the top bar of one of them, sustaining a compound fracture of the ankle. jNIy wound was by this time virtually healed, but I had not as yet ventured ashore. I was anxious to do so, how- ever, now, as there would be nothing to detain us longer at Stanley, as soon as the new sailing-master w^as fit for service, and I had several matters to settle before we left. The next three days, however, proved so boisterous and rough that it was almost impossible to communicate at all with the shore. A furious gale was raging the whole time, and we were even unable to send for coals or water, of both of which we were greatly in need. On Saturday, February 4, the weather began to moderate ii iii I'i ! I?- r,G KARKWKLL TO STANLKY ft<,'ain, and the sailing-master came on board quite recovered from his iUness. The next day was bright, calm, sunny, and warm ; and for the first time since my accident I went ashore, and called at (lovernment llousc'. I'.cifore returnin*^ to the yacht, I also visited the Swallow and the Flamin<,'o, the officers of both which vessels hail been, without exception, most kind and attentive to me. II.AI.S. Kuby arrived that day, so that «iuite a lar^'e contingent of the British navy was gathered to- gether in Stanley harbour. Our departure was delayed be- yond our expectation, for another gale again broke out, last- ing more or less for the next four days. We went ashore for the last time (»n Tuesday, February 7, to bid farewell to the governor and his family, and to make our final calls upon other residents in the place, intending fully to sail on the following day. Before going off to our yacht we attended a Christy Minstrel entertainment in the schoolroom, got up by the men of H.M.S. Flamingo. Fridaji, Feb. 10. — At last our prolonged stay at Stanley came to a close, the otHcers and men of the Swallow cheering us heartily as we passed them about 6 a.m. The Flamingo had left for Monte Video on the previous day. It was with mingled feelings that we gazed for the last time upon the little town and sheltered inlet that had been our home for the last three months. Though delighted at the prospect of once more putting out to the open sea, and experiencing a certain relief from what had been in some sense undoubtedly monotonous, we yet felt, one and all, a pang of regretful sor- row in bidding farewell to a friendly and hospitable shore. The universal kindness which was shown to us, from the governor downwards, will cause us ever to bear in mind, with grateful recollection and affectionate interest, the spot where we saw the old year out and the new year in of 1887-88. » tmJat'.Tirr-iit^nmmfin^tA II i \W p I .J s THK STRAITS OF MA(;KI,I..VN. 67 We were bound for Ca|)e Vir},'ins, which lies at the enst entrnnce to tlie Straits of Maj^ellaii, and ahiiost due west of tlie Falkhmd Ishmds. In order, h»»wever, to j,'et a j,'ooil otlinj,', we stood a considerable distance to the nor'ard, and by noon on Saturday, February 11, we were in lat. 49 4:5' S., Ion;,'. oO" 54' W. This proved a j^lorious day, with a bri<,'ht sun, smooth sea, and good fresh favourable breeze, which continued until 4 p.m. on the Sunday afternoon, sendinj,' us along at the rate of from 10 to 11 knots an hour. Then the wind began to drop, and by 7 p.m. wo were scarcely doing three knots. During the night both wind and sea got up considerably, causing us to n 11 very heavily. All next day, until sunset, we were under double-reefed main-gafl' trysail, double-reefed foresail and jib ; but by six o'clock p.m. the wind had moderated, and all the reefs were shaken out. At 9 A.M. of Tuesday, February 14, we sighted land in the vicinity of Cape Virgins ; but the wind was dead ahead iiiid a brisk gale was blowing, so that we made but little progress, and were not abreast of the cape until six o'clock in the evening. We saw the wreck of a schooner on shore near the beacon ; and as the direction of the wind rendered any attempt to anchor ofl" Dungeness very unsafe, we continued on our course into the Straits of Magellan, anchoring abreast of the beacon on Direction Hills in Possession Bay at ?> p.m. on the following day. We were too far of!" the land to go ashore, and we only anchored on account of the head-wind and the strong tide which was against us. The land is low, and, so far as we could see, there were no trees and very little vegetation. We left Possession Bay at 8.30 a.m. next day ; the wind being fair, and everything indicating the promise of a fine and favourable day. We passed through the First Narrows with comfort ; but immediately afterwards the wind headed round, and a heavy sea got rapidly up. We had intended IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // // ,:< / m- £?< w- ^ w/J. 4' 1.0 I.I 1.25 IIM III 2.5 IIIIM mil 2.2 IIM IIM 1.4 2.0 i.8 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation \ s ^\^ Ll>^ ^9> V ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^\ '^^\%<' #' 6^ 4^ i"r ^ Mj £?< W., 6^ I mr G8 GREGORY BAY. making for Sandy Point, but as there seemed no possibility of our reacliing this, we ran into Gregory V>ay, anchoring there at .") I'^r. We hmded sliortly afterwards, and hauled the seine for fish, but after three attempts we only succeeded in catching a couple of dozen mullet. A Spanish gentle- man owns, here a ranch of 200,000 acres, upon which he had 10,000 sheep. His manager was an Englishman, a Mr F., who took me to his house, and sujiplied me with much information as to the capabilities of the neighbourhood with regard to sport. It appeared that excellent shooting was to be had thereabouts, the game principally consisting of wild duck, partridges, and snipe, whilst in the winter guanaco and pumas were to be found in abundance. The last - named animals were exceedingly destructive to the sheep, but oth.er- wise the country was excellently adapted for sheep-farming. The ratagonian Indians were, according to my host's account, very peaceable and harmless, and frequently came down to the settlements to trade. At the time of our visit an en- campment of tliem was stationed within four hours' ride of Gregory Ikiv. As the wind was blowing furiously on the following morn- ing, and the prospect of a start seemed hopeless, I determined to go ashore and try my luck with the game of which Mr F. had told me. lie accompanied me to a marsh about 1^ mile from the settlement, where we saw a great quantity of snipe and a few brent geese. All the birds were, how- ever, exceedingly wild ; and I found it quite impossible to get within range of the geese. I managed to bag a couple of snipe, and that was the whole extent of our day's sport. It seems very strange that the birds should have been so wild, as they are scarcely ever distur])ed or shot at. On our way back to the settlement Mv F. infornied me that all the land on the sea-border from the Santa Cruz river to Sandy I'oint was entirely taken up ; the greater part being held as lease- 1 ^W" ♦t. . CHEAP FREEHOLDS. Qg hold under tl,e Chilian Govenunont. The land is put up to auction every ten years; and if the holder of a farm is out^bid, he .s compelled to turn out of his holding, receivino- at the same tune no compensation whatever for the buikU ings which he may have erected upon it, nor for the im- provements which he has made. Freeholds, however, can be inirchased at the rate of about 2s. an acre. .IP I I 1 ll 1. ■i; T I )^a'' ( 's yr|r •1 fi^E ' V CHAPTEE IX. SAXDY POINT A BRITISH NAVAL CK.METEKY A SEVKlil] STOHM — SAN NICHOLAS I3AY A WHECK CAPE I'UOWARD I'ORTESCUE HAY SLOW PROGRESS — HORGA RAY PLAYA PARDA COVE PORT ANGOSTO RAU AVEATIIER PORT TAMAU. Fdiruimj IS-. March 7, ISSS. hi ! We left Gregory ])ay at 10 a.m. of Saturday, February 18, the sea being fairly smooth, though the wind was, as usual, ahead. We were obliged to beat the whole way to Sandy Point, where we arrived in the evening. As we neared this place the scenery began to undergo a considerable change, the flat and uninteresting country past which we had hith- erto sailed now giving place to a mountainous and woody district. We did not land until ten o'clock on the following morn- ing, when I paid a visit to Mr Welirhahn, the Uritish vice- consul, to whom I had a letter of introduction. Afterwards we strolled through the settlement, which, however, was not worth the trouble of visiting. The whole place wore a forlorn and ntterly neglected appearance. With the excep- tion of one or two houses belonging to European merchants, there was not a building worthy of the name. Most of the dwelling-places were notliing but miserable shanties ; and the sandy tracks which did duty for streets were littered all over with foul and filthy refuse, which had been thrown out I A BRITISH NAVAL CEMETERY. 71 of the houses and left in tlie road to fester and decay. The liills at the back of the settlement were well wooded, but the timber was being raoidly and ruthlessly destroyed. Coal- mines exist in the neighbourhood, but they were no longer being worked ; and gold is also to be found, but even for this the operations were being carried on in a very desultory manner. It was evident that the settlers were in a state of stagnation, and they seemed a dull and listless set of people. AVith the introduction of fresh energy and well- applied capital, the prospects of the country around appeared favourable to prosperity. About half a mile from tlie town is a cemetery, which we visited for the purpose of seeing the graves of the officers and crew of H.]\LS. Dotterel, which was blown up oft' Sandy Point several years ago. The explosion was supposed to have been caused bv an accumulo-ion of coal-"as in the Ininkevs, though the origin of the disaster was never clearly ascertained. One hundred and forty men were killed by the explosion, and they all lie buried in the cemetery. The officers and men of H.jM.S. Turquoise, when on a visit to Sandy Point some time ago, erected a rude wooden cross on a wooden base over the large central grave where the greater part of the bodies were buried. On the base are painted the names of the victims ; and sixxaller cresses have been placed on the other graves which encircle the larger one. It seems strange that no more permanent and fitting memorial has been erected over the resting-places of those brave but luck- less fellows who perished thus summarily, whilst engaged in the service of their country and their Queen. Jf the Admi- ralty authorities have no power to incur the comparatively trilling expense which such a memorial would involve, at least one would imagine that the British public would sub- scribe willingly for the purpose, if the circumstances of the case were brought to their notice. There was nothing to detain us at this miserable place, and T m U it- 1^ 1 1 ■^ r 1 ' f'H!^ ^i!:; ■ II 1 w ■ H 'Vn 1 r m 1 l\ w - Ij ! i !|l ii : III |L J Ui. 72 A sevi<:re storm. we were hoping to get off again on the following morning ; but about 9 r.M. a terrific hurricane came on, Ir sting all the night ami the greater part of the following forenoon. Our position was a somewhat anxious one, and it was quite im- Ciravcs of offucrs and (ixw, //.M.S. /hiltcrel, Sandy /\ii /if, Straits of i\/agelhiii. possible to stand upon deck owing to the force of the wind. A schooner lying at anchor near us ])arted her cables, and was dashed to pieces on the coast of Tierra del Fuego. For- tunately there was no one aboard her at tlu' time. Two men, however, who were putting off for her in a boat, were ■^^•S?!!*!^ SAX NICHOLAS BAY. 73 blown out to soa, and had not been heard of when we left ; and two lighters also went adrift. The Vice-Consul informed us that such a storm had not visited the settlement during the six years that he had been living there. Tuesday, Fch. 21. — The hurricane and its raging fury had quite passed away, and we were favoured with a beautiful, warm, sunny day. We were under way before 7 a.m., a fair wind helping us forward in the morning. The scenery now ■jecame grander and more striking as we advanced ; though, unfortunately, the more distant and lofty mountains were completely veiled in mist. On the rocks off Cape San Isidro we saw the remains of one of the P.S.X. Company's steamers, which had been wrecked a short time previously. The wind died away gradually all the afternoon, and when we arrived off San Nicholas Bay at 8 p.m. we were so be- calmed that we had to get boats out and tow the yacht into the port, a distance of about li mile. At 5 A.M. next morning we got under way, intending to proceed on our course, as a light breeze was blowing in the right direction, and there appeared a good prospect of a favourable day. Soon, however, the wind died away to a cahn, and the weather became very thick, in consequence of which we were compelled to return to San Nicholas Bay, where we anchored again at eight o'clock. "VVe landed after breakfast on an exphn-ing expedition ; but we found it im- possible to penetrate into the interior on account of the dense undergrowth. Several Indians' huts were on the beach with large quantities of mussel and sea-urchin shells around them, but we saw no signs of the Indians themselves. On our way back to the yacht we visited a small island in the centre of the bay, on which was a tree with several boards nailed upon it, containing the names of vessels which had anchored in the bay. Amongst other names we saw those of H.M.S.'s Nassau and Bocket. In the afterr m we went ashore again to haul the seine, and succeede in ! 'I i^ Si:i. ■J I J; !i '}'. m ill 74 VISIT TO A WRFX'K. capturing' a lai'se draught of mullet and several small pec- caray. A river called the De Gcnnes empties itself into tlie bay, and we ascended this river for about 1^ mile; but we could see no indications of animal life, though tlie banks were thickly wooded with luxuriant vegetation. The wild fuchsias especially attracted our attention, the flowers quite equalling those of artificial cultivation both in size and beauty of hue. The view from our yacht was very fine : on the mainland, to our right, the mountains ran down almost to the water's edge, clothed with forest-trees from summit to base ; whilst on Tierra del Fuego, to our left, the still loftier and more precipitous mountains were crowned with snow-clad peaks. Unfortunately, the weather was thick and disagreeable throughout the day, heavy showers of rain and hail, accom- panied by sharp squalls, recurring at short intervals ; so that we were unable to obtain as extensive a prospect of the glori- ous scenery as we might have done had the day been finer. The next day, Thursday, February 23, was just as sf[ually and unpleasant; and after another ineffectual attempt to be moving on, we were forced to remain in our old quarters. In the afternoon the weather moderated a little, and we visited the wreck of the Pacific steamer in the steam-launcli. She appeared to have been a fine vessel ; l)ut she must have become a total wreck immediately after striking upon the rocks, for none of her water-tight doors were closed, and she was filled with water fore and aft. She was broken clean in two, and her upper deck aft was under water. The weather looked anything but promising for a start on the morrow when we retired to bed, nor did the prospect appear much more hopeful when we rose in the morning. A steady downi)our of rain, with a dull, thick, leaden sky, gave every indication of a continuance of foul weather; but the wind had fallen and the sea was comparatively calm, so that we made u]) our minds to proceed on our way, and pn let In* FORTESCUE BAY. 75 BO started about 10 a.m. As soon as we opened out Glascott Point a dead calm came on, which lasted througliout tlie rest of the day, the rain still falling without intermission. At eigh'. o'clock in the evening a slight breeze sprang up, and at 10 P.M. we found ourselves abreast of Cape Froward, the most southerly extremity of the mainland of America. We had only made 7|^ miles in tlie last twelve hours. A steamer bound eastward passed us after dinner. The liglit breeze died away before midnight, and we drift- ed about till after seven o'clock the next morning, so that by half-past eight we were only about a couple of miles west of Cape Froward. A strong head-wind then came up, lasting all day, and we had great difficulty in beating up against it to Fortescue Bay, where we anchored at 4 p.m. The weather, moreover, was thick and hazy, though every now and then the mist lifted just enough to enable us to catch a glimpse of the magnificent scenery, and to form a slight idea of the beauties which were veiled from our view. On each side of the bay where we came to anchor were rugged and precipitous mountains, covered with trees for about a quarter of the way up, the rest being bare inac- cessible rock. We landed shortly after our arrival, but as at San Nicholas, we found it very difficult to penetrate any distance from the shore on account of the thick forest and undergrowth. In the immediate neighbourhood of the shore the land was marshy, and I put up a snipe as we went along. At the head of the bay was a mountain with two glaciers upon it, and opening out of tlie main harbour was a lovely little inlet, completely land-locked, with a snug and secure anchorage. I visited this little bay in the dingy, and it le- minded me forcibly of a loch in the Highlands. An old ship's boat lay cast up on the shore, having apparently been there for several years. We cast the net, but did not secure more than a couple of dozen mullet. The rain continued to fall at intervals durinu; tlie afternoon and evening. 11 76 BORGA BAY. \l • Fiiilay'.s 'Sailing Directions' mention tlic natives in tlie neiylibourliootl of Fortescue IJay as being especially savage and ciangerous, and we therefore doubled the watch on deck at night, arming them with revolvers and rifles; and we cleared the Nordenfelt guns for action, in case of need. Xothing, however, occurred, and we saw no signs of the natives. An American schooner l)ound eastward passed us towards morning. Sundai/, Feb. 2G. — We got under way at a (quarter past nine in the morning, with a fair wind, though rather un- certain and puffy. The weather was still hazy, and showers fell at frequent intervals. Towards noon we sighted a canoe ahead, evidently paddling out to meet us; and on ncainng it we hove to, and threw the occupants a rope. The ]iarty consisted of a man and two young women, natives of Tierra del Fuego, and by no means so repulsive and unprepossessing in appearance as we had been led to anticipate. "We gave them a few biscuits and four cigars, receiving in exchange a very well dressed otter's skin and a rough native paddle, the only articles which they had with them to barter. We arrived and anchored in IJoi'ga liay at 2.30 p.m., after having passed some exceedingly fine scenery. The late Lady Brassey has given a glowing description of the view from the anchorage in 15orga Hay ; and certainly the praise which she bestows upon it is fully merited, and her language is not one whit exaggerated. We landed shortly after three o'clock, and with great difficulty forced our way through the thick brush- wood, to a small lake about half a mile from the shore ; but we were disappointed in finding scarcely any game. Such a lake in the Falkland Islands would have been teeming with geese and wild ducks ; we here saw only two birds altogether. Near the lake were several boards with ships' names painted on them, conspicuous amongst these being tlie yachts Sunbeam and \\'anderer, with the dates of their respective visits. IMPOUXrNATE NATIVE VISITOIJS. 77 •> "Wo reniaiucti in I'orrfa Hay for four days, bein,t>' detainucl by a continuance of rou^di, squally weather. When we were able to get ashore, we spent our time in watering and collect- ing wood for the yacht ; but for the greater part of the time the weather was too bad to allow of our leaving the vessel. A couple of native canoes, with tliree men and several women, visited us the first ay, and we consequently kept our watch doubled at night. They showed, however, no signs wliatevej of evil intentions ; and they were probably too weak in numbers to meditate any attack. Before leaving I succeeded in photographing them and their camp, and obtained from them several curios, including a bow and arrow, harpoons, &c. The latter were constructed of bone, with notches down the side, very sharply pointed, and carefully finished off". The ship's carpenter memorialised our visit to the bay by fixing a board, with the date and the yacht's name upon it, upon a tree immediately beneath that of H.jM.S. Champion. On Thursday, March 1, we once more got under way at Mi ! i t: 78 PL AY A PARI) A COVE. 5.30 A.M., tliouj^li wu liad a .strong head-wiml, against which wu were conipellotl to beat the whole way to I'laya Parda Covu, where we anchored in the outer liarhour at ". P.M. The liritish steamer Gulf of Trinidad, bound eastward, spoke us to-day ; and the American schooner, ]\Iary H. Thomas, entered the cove and anchored beside us soon after our arrival. The captain came on board to borrow a chart. He was bound from ]»ostou to San Francisco, and had been fourteen days coming from Sandy Toint. Tlie schooner was a smart-looking little craft of about 150 tons burden. I went ashore for a couple of hours before dinner, and had a shot at a couple of grey duck, but they were too far oil' for me to hit tliem. The inner harbour at I'laya I'arda Cove is quite land- locked, and very pretty, the mountains rising abruptly from the edge of the water. Two beautiful streams come roaring down their sides, and empty themselves into the bay. Again we were detained for four days before we could proceed upon our voyage, the weather being thick and squally, and the rain coming down in torrents almost in- cessantly. These continual delays were very trying to the patience and temper of us all ; but Ave had to make the best of a bad matter, and grumbling was worse than useless. On the third day of our detention in Playa Tarda Cove the American schooner dragged lun- ancliors, and had it not been for our presence there, she must inevitably have gone ashore. As it was, she was nearly upon the rocks before we were able to get a hawser aboard her. AVe then got a pur- chase round the capstan and heaved her olT a bit, enabling her to make sail and work out of the harbour, after whicli .she returned, and succeeded in taking up a better berth than she had had before. On Sunday, March 4, the day following this somewhat exciting adventure, the rain ceased shortly after noon, and a fine afternoon ensued. I had noticed from the deck a small I m PORT ANGOSTO. 79 watoi'fiill on llie momitain's side, witli a ilee]) liolhtw l)eluw it. It occurred to me that liere niie ii lake, and accordingly in tlie afternoon I went asliore and seranilded up the rugged liillside. 1 found, as [ had expected, a hike of considerable size, picturesc^uely situaii d in the bottom of an extinct crater; but, to my disappointment, there were no wild-fowl whatever upon it. All the following niglit tlie weauier was d' ad calm, but "ifter sunrise a slight breeze came up. AVf 'herefore weighed anchor at 7.''iO a.m.; but we had not sailed far Ijefore the wind increased rapidly in lierce sijualls with heavy rain ; and to add to the unpleasantness, a short, choppy oc;i was running. We had to beat up all the way to Port Angosto, where we arrived safely at 3.o0 i'..\r. AVe had only come 11 miles from Tlaya Tarda Cove, and this distance had taken us eight hours to accomplish. The American schooner came in a few minutes after us, and fouled our jib-boom, without, however, d-.'ug any tangilde damage. The entrance to the harbour was very narrow, and in the centre was a dangerous rock over which the sea just broke. As night came on the weather became fouler, and we congratulated ourselves that we were safely in p(.n't. During the night the American schooner again dragged her anchors, and again narrowly escaped being wrecked on the rocks. Tlie harbour was formed by a narrow, deep inlet, to the head of which I rowed on the followino; morninu'. 1 shot a very large and h.'udsome kingfisher, but I saw no other birds, with the exception of a couple of kelp geese, which were not worth jjowder and shot. The afternoon turned out wretchedly bad, and we were unable to leave the yacht. The anchorage at Port Angosto is decidedly dangerous and inconvenient. As its name im- plies, it is narrow and confined, and we were compelled to anchor not more than 10 yards from the rocks. We had two anchors down and a couple of hawsers made fast to the I'-'i" T^ Hi '(!' !i:| f> ■ *■ i if. I |,i r : II 80 PORT TAMAJl. shore, but in the rough and squally weather we felt anything but particularly safe. "We were therefore glad to sail away at 7.15 next morn- ing, though the wind was still strong and the sky ominous. We soon got into a wider channel, where we were able to make long tacks. "When we opened out .Sea Picach the wind increased to a gale with furious squalls, and a heavy sea got up. "We knocked about considerably, and nearly lost the dingy, the storn-falls being carried away. ( )ur point of destination was I'ort Tamar, wliicli we reached with great difficulty at 4 p.m. AVe had anticipated finding good and safe anchorage here from the account which is given of the port in Finlay's 'Sailing Directions'; but instead tliereof, we found the entrance studded with dangerous reefs and rocks, and the harbour itself so open and exposed that, if the wind were blowing straight in, no vessel could safely anclior there, unless it were a steamer with all steam up and ready for any emergency. Thougii we had two anchors down, we rolhid as mucli as if we liad been out in the o])en sea. The American schooner had started half an hour after us, but we had soon lost sight of her; and in aii probability slie had put back to I'ort Angosto when she found the weather so unpropitious. ill '. ! I ii i I III i; / 'icuj ill Sinyi/i's Channel. CHAPTER X. COXriNUEl) FOUL WEATHER — ^iII()^r■ UAV A DANGEROUS ADVEN- TURE THE YACHT AliliOUND AN UN.SATI.SI'ACTOUY CliEW liURGOYNE BAY OTTERS — MAGNH''1C'ENT SCENERY — ISTHMUS DAY riAZZI ISLAND NATIVES IN CANOE — COMMISSARIAT DIF- FICULTIES PUERTO IJUENO — (iUIA NARROWS M(JLYNEUX SOUND. March S-31, ISSS. Duiiixc; llio fono\vinr., which we found a SiUig little harbour. We landed and hauled tlie seine, but absolutely without success. Fisii were evidently far less abundant here than in the ^Magellan Straits. AVe saw large numbers of steamer-ducks and shags, but nothing else. At half-]iast six next morning we were again under way, with, as usual, a strong head - wind. The morning was tine, but towards afternoon violent squalls came on, and the weather remained unsettled during tlie rest of the day. The mountains were all clouded over, and we could see little or nothing of the view. AA^e arrived off the entrance to ]\Iayne Harbour at four o'clock ; but as the wind was blowing straiglit out, and the passage was only half a cable wide, it was impossible to effect an entrance into it : we therefore anchored outside. AVe landed with the seine shortly after our arrival, as it was becoming a most important matter to us to obtain lish. AVe had long ago killed the last of the m II: 'I II 88 VISIT FUOM NATIVES IN CANOK. n i--.ii! . { live stock which we had Lrouglit from Stanh'V and Sandy Point, and we were all getting tired of tinned provisions. The first few hauls were nnsuccessful, but at length in a small cove on the south side of the harbour we secured 12 dozen tine mullet in a couple of hauls. The Kosmos Company's steamer Uarda passed us during the day. (Jetting under way at half-past seven the next morning, we went along slowly, with a light head-wind, which gradually died away up till noon. AVe were then becalmed for two hours, after which a nice breeze came on right aft, and for the next four hours we ran along gaily. Towards sunset, however, it again fell to a dead calm, and though we were by this time only four nules from Puerto P>ueno, where we had proposed to anchor, we were (juite unable to make the harbour, and were obliged to drift about through the whole of the night. The day had been a most lovely one, perhaps the finest which we had had since leaving Monte Video. A large canoe came off to us shortly after noon, whilst we were becalmed. This canoe was of a dillerent build and construction from those which we had seen in the Straits of ^Magellan. It was mucli larger, S(piare at both ends, and was built of ])lanks covered with sealskin. The natives, too, were much shyer than those we had seen before, and it was a considerable time before they could be persuaded to come alongside and take a rope which we threw them. The women were clothed in nothing but a square of skins, and it is really wonderful how they can stand the severe climate of the Straits with such insuilicient raiment. AVe obtained from them several otter-skins, and two birch-bark pots sewn together with whalebone and provided with handles of the same material. Tliese pots were used for baling out the canoes. In tlie evening another large canoe came off to us, and some of my men were rather alarmed, as they thought the natives were about to attack us. However, they wanted nothing more than the usual biscuit and tobacco, for which *■' ■JJUUW-. TOKw^ ;?i COxMMISSARIAT DIFFICULTIES. 89 ! tliey were apparently quite ready to exchange their coats of skins. By daybreak next niornino- we had drifted about four miles astern, but soon after sunrise a light breeze sprang up, and we were able to go ahead once more. At half-past eight we sighted a steamer coming up astern. She proved to be the Kosmos Company's steamer Xeko. We were delighted to see her, for we had quite run out of Hour and biscuits. Her captain was exceedingly kind and polite, and gave us Hour, biscuits, and live fowls, telling us to settle with the Company's agent at Callao for the two former, and mak- ing us a personal ]»resent of the latter. From him we learned of the recent death of the old Emperor of Germany and the coronation of the Crown I'r'uce as Emperor Frederick. "We arrived at Puerto Bueno at 10 a.m. and anchored in the outer harbour. This was by far the most picturesque place we had yet visited. The two harbours were divided by several islands covered with vegetation, and having nice sandy beaches sloping gently down to the water's edge. "We landed in the morning and visited an Indian camp, where Me obtained a liow and arrows and some harpoons in exchange for a few cigars and empty bottles. These latter they use in manufacturing their arrow and spear heads. The Indians of Tijerra del Fuego appear to be of the very lowest type of savage. They are short and repulsive in appearance, and they live more like animals than human beings. They have no permanent dwellings, their only shelter from the rigorous climate being a few skins drawn across the top of poles. Their principal diet is fish, which they eat raw just as they take it out of tlie \vatcr. Whilst on shore I shot a turkey-buzzard, which I gave to the Indians. They did not take the trouble even to pluck it, but merely held it over the fire for a few minutes till it was sliglitly warmed, when they tore it to pieces and dev(K;red it greedily. They are always accompanied by a large number M t i 90 GUIA NAIUIOWS. of dorrs, whicli they occasionally eat, and they are also said to be cannibals ; but of the truth of the latter statement T am not sure. In the evening we hauled the seine in both the inner and outer harbours, but only caught a few small mullet. The next three days we remained in Puerto jlueno, as the air was absolutely calm and it was impossible to proceed on our way. The weather, however, though mild, was not so pleasant as on the day on. which we arrived, as the sun shone very little during the three days, and heavy showers occurred at frequent intervals. ])uring our stay in this har])our I several times tried my luck at fishing on a lake at the head of the harbour. 1 had the berthnn buat carried uj) thither, and from this boat I tislu.'d. 1 tried l)oth the tly and a phantom minnow, and caught some small tish averag- ing about a quarter of a pound apiece; they were (evidently a species of trout, but without any scales.^ Tlie Ixxlies were silvery, marked with wavy bhuk vertical lines, and their eyeballs were black. The lake was of consideralAle size, and appeared to be very deep. On Wednesday, March 2S, we set sail at 7 A.M., with a fresh head-wind. The scenery as we proceeded up the clian- nel was very grand and remarkable. As we looked towards Guia Narrows there appeared to Itc no opening whatever, nor did it disclose itself until we were close upon it. It seemed to me, however, that the so-called Ladder Hill could only by the utmost stretch of imagination be said to look as though a Hight of steps had been cut in it. The beauty of the scenery as we passed through the Guia Narrows was in my opinion impossible to be exaggerated. Lofty i)recipitous mountains rose abruptly on either side, in many parts densely wooded, and with innumerable waterfalls rushing down their 1 According to the authority of Mr Tegetineier, these fish do not belong to the true Sdhiiouifln; but to an allied family called the Jl(ijjlorliito)iitl(i', and which rci)re.sent the former in the southern henii.-i[)heie. The so-culled trout in the Falkland Lslands are of the same species. The scientific name for this particular fish is llaplochiton zchra. '^-■11 MOLYNEUX SOUND. 91 !1 i or, It lil.l ilS of ill lus ^ly iir to Ind led Lie sides. We luul a stroiii; tide witli us all the afternoon, espe- cially as we passed between Guard Island and the mainland, which was the narrowest part of the channel. Here, with a breadth of only two cables, the water was swirling round in eddies, and we were obliged to be most careful in our steering. We saw a consideraljle number of whales during this day. Our anchorage for the niglit was in IJnyo Cove, where we arrived at 5.30 r.M. The next day was exceedingly disagreeable, and as I was anxious to visit a large stream of fresh water which we saw at tlie head of the harbour, we did not get under way until half-past one in the afternoon. The wind was fair though light, and towards evening completely died away. We arrived at Wide Bay and anchored there shortly before 4 p.m., start- iiifr again next morning at six o'clock. The weather was now much colder than it had been lately, and heavy showers again fell frequently during the day. Tliere was a fresh head-wind blowing as usual, and as we opened out Concepcioi; and West Channels we encountered a short choppy sea, which threw spray continually over our bows. We reached a snug little cove about a mile inside the entrance of Molyneux Sound at 5 P.M., where we saw several boards with ships' names painted on thein fastened to the trees on shore. Saturday, ]\larch 31, was again showery, though the air was considerably milder than the day before. We got under way at 10 a.m., but there was hardly any wind in the Sound, and we were obliged to tow out. On getting into the chan- nel we found ourselves becalmed, and after drifting back a couple of miles, a light air having then sprung up, we decided to return to Molyneux Sound. On arriving at the entrance, however, we found the tide flowing out so strong that we were unable to make headway against it ; we therefore dropped anchor at 7 p.m. under the land, about a mile north of the Sound. n m!^ 1. M Ml ' . 1 \ < 1 1 ' ■ i [' S* - 1': :, 92 CHAPTER X[. TAKKN I\ TOW CHASM liKACll UEAUTIFUL SCEXICI — EXOUDI- TANT CIIAnOES A UlUTISH STEAMEll ATTEMPT A KXTOHTIOX AX ITAMAX MAX-OF-WAU COXXOR COVE MOHE DELAYS WATElil'AIJi liAY — I.SI.AXD IIAHHOUR HALE COVE IX THE OPEX «EA OXCE MORE THE PACIFIC OCEAX — A DEAU WHALE — HEAVV SEAS EXPERIMEXTS WITH OIL CUMUERLAXI) DAY — J LAX FERXAXDEZ. Jpril 1-Muy 2, ISSS. Sunday, Aiml 1. — A fine inoiiiinL;' witli a bright sun. Tlie wind though liglit was fair, and we were once more able to proceed on our course. We got under way at lialf-past six in the morning, and at A.M. we siglited a steamer coining up. ])eing again short of Hour and biscuits we signalled her, consequently she bore down on us, and I went olf to her in the lifeboat. She proved to be the German Pacific Com- pany's steamship Celia. The captain supplied me with what I required, and further ollered to take ils in tow for £10 a- day. As this seemed to me very reasonable, and as we had been so much delayed by calms and head-winds, I determined to accept his offer. Iicturniiig to the yacht I sent a tow-line across to the steamer, and soon after ten o'clock she steamed ahead, carrying us through the water at a rate to which we had long been strangers. The scenery during that day was exceedingly fine, espe- cially as we passed round Saumerez Island through Chasm lie id in KXOniilTANT r|[Alt(!KS. n:j licach. This was a deep j^loomy }4or<,'e between lofty preci- pices, down the sides of wliieli woro runninjj; iiinmnerablo waterfalls. Every one was ini])ro,ssi!d with u s(;nse of over- whehuinj:; grandeur, but iinfortiinatoly it was rainin,if liard the whole thue. The Celia aounded her whistle repeatedly as we passed throu!;'h the 1 teach, and the echo could be luiard rolling' and reverbca-atin,!,' throni^di the mour.tains. Sliortly afterwards we passed Icy Channel, w'here we saw several small iceberi;s, and a great number of canoes full of Indian-i. The Chilian despatch vessel An<;amos passed us goinj:; scnitli- ward at noon. "We arrived and anchored in Tort Crappler at six o'clock in the eveninj^', and after dinner the captain of the Celia and two of the passenj^ers came on board. I settled with the former for the provisions which he had let us liave, and I was greatly annoyed at tlie exorbitant cliarges he had made. lie had evidently taken advantage of our necessities, for he charged us ten guineas for uOO lb. of biscuits, and £3, 10s. for a barrel of ilour ; the latter of which, as I afterwards discovered, he replaced at Valparaiso for 2;js., and the former for three guineas. Xext morning we again started in tow of the Celia, the weather being tine but cold. In Indian IJeach we passed the wreck of a German steamer, the stern of which was sub- merged beneath the water and the bows sticking up in the air. At 10..'50 a.m. we passed through the English Narrows, the scenery of which, though extremely beautiful, was want- ing in the grandeur of that in Chasm I'each. As we passed Middle Island the navigation was most intricate, and the utmost attention had to be paid to the steering. Tlie width W'as scarcely more than one cable, and the tide was rushing through at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour. Soon after entering Messier Chainiel the British steamship Gulf of Akaba passed us, several of the passengers waving to us, and the steamer dipping her ensign. After lunch it began to rain heavily and the sky became hazy. At three o'clock. |-i I P( I i 111 iv Ilf 94 COXXOR COVE. iiiucli to our disappointment, tlie Celia bore up for Connor Cove, where she anchored, altliough the captain had iuf ormed me that lie intended to get out to sea that day. This move was clearly an attempt to extort more money out of me, for when I went on board the Celia the captain coolly demanded £10 for detention, in addition to another £10 to take us on on the following day. Tliis I innnediately declined, offering however, to give him £5. This he refused, and I therefore t:.l ii>i''n» ' DEPRESSING WEATHER. 95 •ar ik- 3111 Ion |er. 1h1 lof the officers of the man-of-war expressed his great surprise at my coming to sucli a part of the worhl for a pleasure-trip. " Venice or Xaples," he said, " I can i ulerstand that ; but as for MageHan Straits ." He did not finish his sentence, but gave his shoulders a tlioroughly Italian expressive shrug, leaving little doubt of wliat v,,is passing in his mind. Tuesday, April .'!, was a raust disagreeable day, and we v.'ere compelled to remain in Connor Cove during the whole of tliat as well as the two following days. The Celia left at 7 A.M., and the Elavio Gioia an hour later, so that during the remainder of the time we were entirely alone. We saw many otters at dill'erent times during our stay in tlie cove, and one of the men killed a small one witli a boat-stretcher on the shore. On one occasion I went to the head of the harbour witli a gun, but found absolutely nothing to shoot, Tlie country round the port was exceedingly pretty, the vegetation most luxuriant, and the trees very lofty. There were in particular a large variety of ferns, of which one species was especially beautiful, the frond being about six inches long, and so delicate that it looked almost like lace. We cut down a good quantity of timber for firewood, also collecting a lot of driftwood, of which there was a great abundance. The wood was of excellent quality and burnt well, it was by far the best we had yet procured. The w^iatlier during the whole time was most depressing, rain falling without intenaission from morning to night, and the wind blowing in nasty uneven gusts at intervals. No one on board seemed to desire ever to visit the Straits of Magellan again. The morning of Friday, April G, broke with more prom- ising weather, and as a light fair breeze was blowing we sailed at G a.m. Soon, however, the wind died away and we were becalmed for a couple of hours. After this it again sprang up, and we went along ut a fair pace of from two to five knots an hour until half-past three, when it finally f ' I m si 5 1 f ' (. i 1 96 WATERFALL BAY. dropped to a dead calm. We were obliged to get the boats out and tow the ship about four miles to Waterfall Hay, where we arrived and anchored at G p.m. In tliis bay we were again compelled to lie at anchor for three days, owing to the unpropitious state of the weather. We were- anchored nearly opposite the waterfall from which the btiy takes its name. It was certainly a very fine cascade, especially during our visit, when it was swollen with rain. It was also very convenient for watering purposes, as a boat could be drawn immediately underneath it and idled. On Sunday, A})ril 8, a terrific squall came suddenly on, and at 3. '30 a.m. we commenced to drag. After drifting about tliirty or forty yards we brought up with the stream anchor in CO fathoms. Previously we l-ad been anchored in only 10 fathoms, so that the depth in the bay incroased very rapidly. The wind had dropped soon afterwards, and we W'cighed anchor at 10.15 a.m., intending to try and get on our way. We had no sooner, however, got outside the bay than a dead calm once m )re came on, and after drifting about all day we found on /'selves about three miles astern, so that again we were compelled to get the boats out and tow the yacht back to Waterfall IJay. This operation was by no moans pleasant, s it was pouring with rain the whole time. On Monday, April 0, we again starte and died away again constantly, we managed to get to Island Har- bour, where we anchored at o.-'iO p.m. The entrance to this port was very narrow, but when once we were inside we found a snug harljour where there were no dangers, and the hold- ing-ground of which was good. Finlay says that an alnui- dance of fish are at t'mes to be found in this harljour, and I therefore sent the dingy oft" shortly after our arrival ; but the water everywhere proved to be too deep for the seine to be hauled. HALE COVE. 97 Another wretched day ensued, and we were conipelknl to remain at onr ancliora"e. On "Wednesday, April 11, though it was still blowing and raining hard, we determined to try and get on our way, as we were thoroughly disgusted at these constant delays. The wind at first was ahead of us, Ijut soon hecame fair, and we arrived off Hale Cove at one o'clock. We were now hut a short distance from the open sea, and had the weather looked at all favouralde, we shouM have endeavonred to get out into the open. As, however, appearances were anything but promising, we thought it nuire prudent to put into the cove. On the wlujle, the harbour was good ; l)ut the place is exposed to severe srjualls, as the mountains rise to a great height perpeiidiculai'ly from the water and tower over the port. The lifeboat went out with the seine in the after- noon, and returned with about eight dozen fine mullet and five peccaray. We were detained in Hale Cove fur the next liv(j days. It was most tantalising to be so near tlie open sea without being able to reach it. At first we were prevented from starting through the entire absence of wind, an, the weather became somewhat finer, l)ut there was no wind, and we were therefore iniable to make a start. After luncli 1 walked to the top of a hill about 1500 feet high, I had a rough and dilllcult scramble up through the dense vegetation, but on arriving at the sunnnit I was rewarded with a grand view, in whieli I obtained on this occasion my first glimpse of the I'acific Ocean. On the following Tuesday we were cheered by the piospect of really favourable weather ; the sky was almost cloudless, the sun was shining brightly, there was no appearance of rain, and the wind was fair. We sailed at 9 a.m., and for some little time all went well. Jhit at two o'clock the breeze again died away, and we lay becalmed off Sombrero Island for two hours. It then sprang up again for a short time and again dropped. Just after sunset, however, a fine breeze at length got up, and enabled us finally to get clear of the Straits, and (»nce more to be on tlie open sea. Altogether we had been sixty-three days passing through the ]\Iagellan Straits and Smyth's Channel, and had Ix'en obliged to anchor in twenty-five difierent harbours. Lovely though the scenery had been in many parts, we were all heartily tired of our last two months' experience, and our first evening on the open sea was hailed with un- bounded delight l)y all on board. AVe now headed our coiu'se for Juan Fernandez, which lay nearly 800 miles to tlie north. Little occurred during the next few days, but on the whole we were favoured with a fair wind. During "Wednesday, April 18, we ran for a great part of i W»i>i " 1 < P A DEAD WHALE. 99 the time nearly ten knots an hour, a most pleasant change after the Straits. Xext clay, however, the wind veered round right in our teeth, and we were obliged to make long tacks. Friday, April 20, was a thoroughly disagreeable day, the wind l»eing still ahead and a heavy swell causing us to roll and pitch considerably ; rain also fell very heavily with scarcely any intermission. Saturday was on tlie whole a fine day, the sun shining brightly and the air being much milder; the wind was light and on the whole favourable, but the sea still ran high and there was an incessant roll on all day. We were obliged to run a good way off our course, and consequently made com- paratively little headway towards our destination. ( )n ^Monday, April 2.j, considerable excitement was caused in the morning by our sighting a large white object, which at first appeared to be a vessel bottom upwards. On ap- proaching it, however, we found that it was a carcass of a dead whale blown out liy gas to an enormous size. It ap- peared to me that very prol)ably objects such as this have frequently been mistaken for rocks and small islands in the sea, and many such which have l)een reported in the South I'acific, and of wlo'eli no trace has afterwards l)een found, may have owed their origin to some such cause. Xotliing worthy of note occurred during the next few days, excepi that on Tuesday, A])ril 2G, we lost our patent log, owing to its getting foul of the keel in tacking, and of the line parting in our endeavours to get it clear. Fortu- nately we were provided with another, so that the loss was of com])aratively little importance. As we advancr-d north- wards the weather became perceptibly warmer, and at intei- vals there was a good deal of sheet-lightning. The sea con- tinued for the most part very heavy, though the weather on the whole was far better than that which we had experi- enced durinu the last three months. The tremendous swell I >1 il;i m' 'I: ii Pi I 100 UTILITY OF OIL IX HEAVY SEAS. seemed stranffe and unaccouutaljle, and no one on board could give any reason for it. On Tuesday, ]\Iay 1, we were only 7S miles from Juan Fernandez when we took our ol)servations at noon. A tine breeze sent ns along all day at the rate of about five knots, and we fully hoped to reaeh our destination early on the following morning. At two o'eloek in the middle of the night, however, a strong gale sprang up and raised a mountainous sea in which the ship laboured terribly. "We were unable to get the storm-trysail up, as the yacht would have i..Jlen off if we had lowered the mainsail. We therefore hove to under close-reefed balanced mainsail and double-reefed staysail. Bad as had been the weather to which we had become accus- tomed, this day was in my opinion the worst we had had since leaving England. 80 heavy had become the sea, that at 11 A.M. we hung bags of oil over tl 3 side to prevent the seas breaking on board. It was the first time that we had seen this experiment tried, and tlicre is no doubt whatever that it is of the greatest utility. AVe had sighted the island at 9 A.M., and as we got under the lee of the land the sea became less heavy, but the squalls were terrific in their violence, and more than once the slii]) was almost thrown on her beam-ends. Unfortunately we mistook the position of the harbour, and it was not till we were abreast of Santa Clara Island that we discovered our mistake. We were obliged to return, and by this time the wind had almost fallen to a calm, so that we found it difllcult to make our way back. However, we arrived off the harbour at ."> p.m. that evening and beat in against the wind. We anchored in Cumberland J>ay just after sunset. We had been eighty-two days out since leaving Stanley, and were delighted at the chance of getting some fresh pro- visions once again. Some men came ofl'and boarded us, and JUAN FERNANDEZ. 101 ^uls r; 1 1^'"' T ''"" ^'^-«^--^- -en from the St. IS er) lofty and precipitous, tl.e clifis beiiK- mnvh nption I had been led to expect soniethin, far more piesented by the islan.l as we approached it. i -h ii il I 1 1 i ; j ml >% * I I t ¥ r ff * r t 1 1 ' I I 1 I ti Wr ■■ i ■ ^ 1 1 ; ■ '■ ^ 102 CHAPTER XII. JUAX FKRXAXDEZ — AHL-XDANT SUI'PrA' OF I'ISII — WILO-CiOAT SHOOT- IXG — ALEXAXniCIt ^ELKIDK HX OUI! VOYAGE AOAIX OUT Ol' OL'R HECKOXIXCi MOI.I.EXDo — -AliUAXCiEMENTS FUU A TUIl' IXTo THE IXTEHIOI! Ol' I'KKU. ^falJ :i-is, iSHS. JUAX FKitXANDEZ is au island leased by the Chilian Govern- ment to a German, who was living, however, at A'alparaiso at the time of our visit. The settlement was very small, con- sisting of about a dozen houses and a few sheds. The popu- lation amounted to about Hft} or sixty people, including women and children. From what I could see they appeared to lead a remarkably easy life. All the houses had gardens attached to them, in which were grown many kinds of vege- tables, and every one had a considerable number of cattle, besides horses, mules, and abundance of poultry. No corn or other crops are grown, as the nature of the ground does not admit of them. There are six caves on a considerable rise, standing above the settlement. They apjiear to be artificial, or at any rate have been artificially enlarged, and were originally intended for storehouses, though at present they are unused. The old Spanish fort of San Juan I'aptista, which overlooks the bav, was in a verv ruinous condition. The walls were rapidly crumbling to pieces, and there was only one bastion remaining, besides a few guns lying dismantled . ABUNDANT SUPPLY OF FISH. 103 oil the bcacli. T visited tlie p'aveyard, wliere a seaman of If. M.S. IJepulse is buried, and I Nvas agreeably surprised to note tlie tidy manner in wliieh the little place is kept. The people belonging to the settlement were extremely oliliging, and evidently anxious to show us every attention in their power. Xot many ships call at the island, and the arrival of our yacht was tliereforc rather an event to them. Tn the afternoon 1 went in the dinyy to fish in Englisli !>ay, and in a very short time I caught five cod weighing from eight to thirty jionnds apiece. They appeared to be of a dill'erent species from the cod which we get in England, but they proved none the less excellent for eating. The bay is simply alive with fisli, chietly a sort of bonita, any number of which can be caught as fast as they can be hauled in. AVe also got some bream. The island is thirteen miles lovig by four miles broad, and it was discovered by the Spaniard whose name it bears in loGo. Up to the time of the Spanish occupation in 1750, Juan Fernandez was a great resort for buccaneers. After the independence of Chili it was used by that nation as a convict settlement from 1S19 to 1835, when it was abandoned on account of expense. During the wars between England and Spain in the last century it was greatly used as a rendezvous by Ihitish men-of-war who were employed in harassing the Spanish connnerce in the Pacific. lUit Juan Fernandez is better known as the residence of Alexander Selkirk, who is supposed to have been the original from whom Defoe drew his celebrated picture of IJobinson Crusoe. The island is tolerably lofty, the highest peak being 3000 feet above the level of the sea. It is called the Yunque, from its supposed resemblance to an anvil. For several hundred feet above the sea the island seems in most parts to be (|uite bare, but above this it is thickly wooded with trees which seem to be of "reat size. I \ n ii' 'l .. j I :l 104 LUXURIANT VEGETATION. On Friday, >ray 4, we started on horseback at 10 a.m. to cdiiiib tlie liills in search of wiUl ^Ljoats. From tlic very out- set tlie patlis wore exceedin<;ly steep, but when we got into the woods tliey became absohitely im]n'aeticable for lior.se.s. The track was narrow in the extreme, anil tlie groinid was a sticky chiy, whilst great boulders occurred at freipiout inter- vals, and the path was as nearly perpendicular as a path could po.ssibly be. The horses were continually slipping down although we were on foot leading them ; and as I found that at the rate at which we were going we sliould not reach our shooting-ground till after nightfall, I decided to return. The vegetation in the woods as we passeil through Wiis most luxuriant, the undergrowth being very dense and the trees of large proportions, ]Myrtles were especially numerous and large, and there were many wild fruit-trees, — peaches and plums seemed tlie most al)un(lant, and enormous quantities of strawberry plants covered the ground, tlie leaves of the latter being quite as large as those in English gardens. The plants and fruit-trees are supposed to have been originally set by the buccaneers, who formerly fre([uented the Lslaud. As at Hale ("ove, I found the ferns here of great variety and wondrous beauty, and I noticed tlie same large l)racken I had seen there. After lunch on board the yacht, we rowed round in the dingy to try and shoot some pigeons, which abounded in enormous (piantities in the clifl's. They were the common blue-rocks, but were so extremely wild that I only succeeded in shooting one. That one, moreover, 1 lost, as it fell into the water and was carried by the surf into a cave, into which it was impossilde to take th'j boat. Tlie following day I started in the launch with the dingy in tow, taking with me three men from the settlement and three dogs. Our destination was Santa Clara Island, and our object was sport after wild goats. We steamed along under the cliffs close inshore, and about an hour after leaving the yacht we saw ALEXANDER SELKIRK. 105 lartfc numbers of goats scrambling al)out the precipices. We tired several shots at them at a distance of about 250 yards, and killed two. One, however, fell on a ledge, from which we were unable to recover it ; the other fell into the sea, and we picked it u]). It was a very small animal, with insignificant horns. Having gone on some distance, we landed two men with their dogs, giving them instructions to ascend the cliffs by a preci[)itous path, for the purpose of driving the goats within shooting range. Several came within range, but unfortunately the boat was rolling so heavily that it was impcjssible to get a steady aim. As the swell continued to increase and the boat laljoured consider- ablv, we decided to return to the yacht. ()n our wav Ijack we landed in English IJay, and saw the cave in which Alexander Selkirk is said to have lived. "Whether the story was true or not I am unable to say, but there is no doubt whatever tiiat the cave has been used as a dwelling-place. A fireplace and cu[)])oards have been hollowed out in the sides, and there were other evident tokens of a former habi- tation. At the top of one of the steepest hills, which is said to have been his look-out station, stands a monument erected to his memory, and bearing tlie following inscription: — il o " Ix Mk.moky or ALEXANDER SELKIEK, A native of Largo, in the county of Life, Scotland, who was on this island for four years and four nioutlis. Ho was landed from the Cinciue I'orts galley, 96 tons, 10 guns, A.n. 1701, and was taken oiT 'oy the Duke privateer, 12tli February 1709. He died LieutvMiaut of 11.^1. S. AVey- moutli, A.n. 1723, aged 47 years. " Tins tablet is erected near Selkirk's look-out l)y Com- mander Powell and the ollicers of ILAhS. Topaz, 1868." The communication between Juan Fernandez and A'alpa- raiso is very irregular, and when I went ashore to settle up lOG ON OUR VOYA(iE AGAIN. I '. the Mils the day ln't'oiu k-aviii^:, 1 I'mmil the ])eo)(le were iuixious to be piiitl in >^(Hnh ralhcr than inouey, as no vessel li.iil been then; for a lon.Lf time, ami ihey had run rmt (if various articles. Unfortunately our own .supplies had be- come very limiti'd, and we were therefore unable to comply with their request. AVc found, however, that their prices for meat, ]t(ailtry, and vej:,'etables were very reasonable. 1 noticed on the island .several pretty little birds, rc- semblinj.;' hunnninj,f-birds, of beautiful plumaesides wild ,!.;()ats, of which 1 have alreaiiy si)oken, the other wild animals are cats and doL;s. The latter are a kind of mastili', and are descended from some which were turned lo(t.se l»y the Spanish for the purjjose of kcepin;^ down the goats. These latter appear to have been at lau! time much more nu; 'rous than they are now. A few fur-<"als are occasionally u. . -d on the shore, though they are more numerous on Mas a J'"uera, the fither island of the group. Juan Fernandez is also celebratetl for cray-lish, which are of a large size and excellent ilavour. "We ol)tained some of them before leaving. "We were very shor!. of flonr and biscuits, and just as we were about to weigh r,r.ili.jr previous to leaving we sighted a vessel a]ii»arently maknig for the harbour. A\'e therefore decided to await her arrival in order to obtain some from lier. To our great disa])pointment, after coming close in, she bore away again. The delay in waiting for the vessel ran us close to sunset, and as the weather looked very dirty we decided to postpone our departure till the next morning. Charles Schroeder, A.]>., refused to work any longer as there was no Hour. 1 therefore paid him oif at his own request, and ])ut him ashore. The morning of Tuesday the Sth j\Iay we at length started again upon our course, the weather being beautiful and the breeze strong and fa'r. The people Irom the shore came off ty 3d jie Iff OUT OF OUIl IlIX'KONINO. 107 in tliL'ir Nvliale-bDiit to bid us I'uivwl'H and sjH't'd us on our way. I must confess to a fooling of considcralilo disnpitoiid- niont with regard lo Juan Fornandoz, wliirli did not in any way como uj) to ilio oxpoctation we liad been \vd to tnrni of it from tho high-tlown doscrii»tiou wliicli is quotod by Finlay. Our next destination was ^Molloiulo, 1000 nulos X. by E. of duan I'ernaudo/C. A beautiful fair bree/e sent us along during ..lie next few days at the rate of at least nine knots an liour. On the third day out from Juan Fernandez we got into the S.E. trades, which hel])ed us along considor- al)ly. The weatlier, though fine, was almost continually dull; and the sun was gonerally so obscured that we ex- perienced the greatest difliculty in taking satisfactory obser- vations for latitude and longitude. This, I am informed, is the usu; ;tate of the atmosphere oil" the coast of Peru. At 2 !•..»[. on Monday, ]\Iay 14, we sighted land, and soon afterwards made out a very lofiy mountain, llie summit of which was covered with snow. As far as we could calcu- late, it appeared to be the Misti, which rises at the back of Arequipa. Xext nu)rning we found ourselves, so far as we could make out, oil" Cornejo Point, for it was most diMicult to identify the landmarks. During the whole of the morning the air was almost a dead calm, but about two o'clock a light breeze sprang up. "We then steered for some islands which we calculated to be those mentioned in Finlay's ' Sailing Directions' as lying oft" Islay I'oint. The darkness came on before we could reach them, and we therefore stood off from the land and hove to for the night. At daybreak on "Wednesday, ^fay 16, we sighted what we imagined to be Islay Foint. We ran down close to it, but after careful examination we could not in the least reconcile it with the description given in Finlay of that place. After lingering about for some time, uncertain where 7 108 MOLLENDO. we were or wliat to do, llie sky fortunately became clear enou,L;h for us to obtain a j^ood observation. To (lur un- speakable disj^ust we found tliat we were only oil' Coles Point, 50 miles south of jMollendo. There was, however, notliing to be done l)ut to j^o back, wliich we accordingly did. AVe had a light breeze all the afternoon, but it died away in tlie evening. V>y ten o'clock at night we had done '^)0 miles out of the ;")(). N"ext morning we found ourselves off Tandjo X'alley, where we had been two days lielnre without knowing it. Sliortly afterwards we sighted JMollendo, but tliere was no wind, and we were compelled to drift along witli the current. A r.S.X. Company's steamer passed us at one o'clock bound for the port, and at .">..jO r.M. the health-imat came oil" ami gave us prati(]^ue. Tlie captain of the port was an exceedingly polite nnn, but he could not at first make out what we wore, having never before seen a yacht. We were tlie first that had ever visited JMollendo. At 4..jO p.m. we ancliored, having wasted two whole days in searcli of tlie ])lace. Soon afterwards we went asliorc in the health -liuut, and landed alongside the woddeii pier. A very heavy surf I'olls into the roadstead, and landing is at the liest of times very ditlicult, frequently it is (piite impracticable. The town of Mollendo is a wretched ])lace. and had suffered severely during the late war lietween Chili and I'eru. The railway terminus, which liad formerly been a handsome building, had been lairned down by the Chilians, and the town mercilessly bombarded. The action of the Chilians was scandalous and ineAcusable, as the town was totally defenceless, and no atlem])t at o]i])osition had been made. The cajitain of the ])ort introduced us to an I'Jiglish gentleman, ]Mr S., who, together with his mother, lives here in a verv nice house. AVe were also introduced to ^Ir !{., LACK OF LIGHTHOUSES IN PERU. 109 tlie l>iiti.sli Vicc-Consul, to the captiiiu of a reruvian trans- port, and to one or two of tlio inhabitants of the place. Everybody was kind in tlie extreme, and offered to do any- thing for us. The lifeboat came in at six o'clock, bnt the surf was so heavy that I was afraid lest she should be stove in agninst the steps ; I therefore sent her back to the yacht, and put up myself for the night at the Hotel del Ferro Carril. The hotel was considerably better than I could have expected to find in such a place ; the rooms were clean and the cooking very fan*. ^Ir Ii. dined with me, and gave um a good deal of information about the country. The railway from ]\Iollendo to l*uno, as appears from what he told me, had been recently seized by the Teruvian Government, though owned and worked liy an American Company. In conse([uence of this a great deal of diplomatic correspondence was then going on upon tlie subject, and it was feared that some little trouble and complication might ensue. It was generally lielieved that the l*eruvian (lovernment had done this as a preliminary step to handing over the railways and mines to the bondholders. There was no light on the mole, nor a st(ini;-tiig lielonging to the port, though in Fin- lay's 'Sidling 1 Erections' it is said that there are both. The whole I'fvuvian coast is almost destitute of lights, which is an unpardonalik', scandal in a nation professing to call itself civilised. At lialf-past six on tiio following morning, Fridny, ^May 18, I visited the market, which is held neiir the church. There was, however, nothing of interest to be seen there, and little was exhibited for sale except meat and vegetables. After breakfast at the hotel i wi'Ut oil' to the yacht, the captain of the transport kindly giv;ng me a passage in his bout. In the afternoon I returned on shore, and after fulling with 'Sir K. on Mr. S. and liis mother, we walked to a garden at the bauk of the town which is considered by the I'lhabiiants of Mollendo to bi> a most licautiful spot. To my WT V ' 1 ^ 110 ARRANGEMENTS FOR A TRIP. eyes it seemed but a poor little place, though it was doubt- less a boon to the town, as it appeared to be the only green spot al)Out it. It possessed a bowling alley which seemed to be extensively patronised. I slept at the hotel again that night, after having dined with ^Ir li. and made arrange- ments for starting early next morning for a tiip into the interior. ;.. h !■ i » I I ■ Ill ^PtT \ CHAPTER XIII. 'JIIK UAII.WAY i'liOM MoI.r.KNlK) TO AKKQUITA WOXHEUI'LT, KX(;I- NKKUIN'O .M!l-(,irirA ITXtl LAKE TITICACA INi:'A liEMAIXS BOLIVIA LA I'AZ — oliliA8K8. Men 10-,.'S, ISSS. Ox Saturday, ^May 10, we loft Molk'iulo by tlie 7.30 A.M. train for Ar('i[uipa. Tlieie were only two ])assenger carriages on tlie train, one tir.st and one second class, both of tliein American cars. The line follows tlie coast for a distance of 14 miles to Ensenada, from whicli ])oint it commences to as- cend, the gradient being 1000 feet in five miles. Here the station of Tambo is reached, and the line continues gradually to ascend until it reaches Cachendo, which is 8200 feet above tlh' sea. Tlie engineering of this part of tlie line is really wonderful. In many places the track is cut in tlie side of llie precipice, and from the carriage-window one can see a sheer descent of hundreds of feet, along which the track winds up which one has just ascended. There was a lialt of half an liour at Cachendo, and tlu'ii we traversed a dreary sandy plain until we reached a station called Vitor. The line then again began to ascend a very steep gradient, up which the engine had thr greatest diliiculty to draw the train. The latter was fitted with exceedinglv powerful biakes, and twice during the ascent we had to stop in order to allow the engine to get up suilicient steam, At Quishuarani we found our- ' HJ i 112 AREQUIPA. I ' selves G12.') feet iibove tlie sea, and from this point the scenery became magnificent in the extreme. Far down beneath lay a valley, througli whicli meandered a rapid stream with green trees, and wide plantations on either side attbrded a great contrast to the barren rock and sand through whic]; we ourselves were passing. As we approached Are- quipa, ,1 ert country gradually gave way to highly cul- tivated laii.. and for the last 10 miles of our journey we passed through a succession of fruitful orchards. AVe readied Arequipa at 4 p.m., having taken S\ hours to accomplish tlie 107 miles from ?klolleudo. We drove to the Hotel Central, wliich we found a very comfortable estalilish- ment, tlie landlord of whicli was a Frenchman. Arequipa is situated amidst most })ictures{pie scenery. It stands on a plain at the foot of the Misti Volcano, wliich rises 18,G50 feet above the .sea, whilst on either side are the magnificent peaks of Charchani and Pichupichu, the former of which is 19,000 feet and the latter 17,800 I'eet high. The town itself is .situated at a level of 7o50 feet above the sea, in conse(ptence of which these splendid niountain.s, stupendous tliough the}' are, do not give the spectator the a])pearance of being as high as they really are. A little snow lay mi their summits, l)ut consider- ing their height it seems surin'ising that there was not more. After a short stroll, in which we could see nothing because it had already liecome dark, we spent the evening in cmi- versation with the proprietor of the hotel, who gave us a most doleful account of the stat(i of the country. Accoiding to his ('x]iression Teru was simply an ix't/x pi ri/i'. The following morning was a Sunday, and 1 conliiied myself to strolling leisurely aliout the town. 1 found .Vre- quipa an old-fashioned Spanish place, which seemed to cany me back some centuries. The houses were low and very massively ]juilt, in order to stand the shocks of earthquakes which are of such freiiueiit occurrence here. At least once a mouth shocks are felt, though as a rule they are not severe. ^nlB FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 113 The last really l)a(l eart]ir|uake took place in 1SG8, when an innneiise amount of (lania,c;e was done, and many lives were lost. Several of the churches and other buildinp's still bore witness to its oH'ects when I visited them. The principal riaza is of very lar^e extent, with a j^ardeu in the centre. On one sitlo is the catliedral, an enormous modern l)uilding' witli two liift}' campaniles, l)ut plain and uninviiing- in ap- pearance. Tiie other three sides of the Plaza are surrounded by covered arcades, in which are shops of a poor and mean description. I was struck by the number of churches in the city, several of wliich dated from a short time after the Con- quest of Peru. Most of tliem were adorned on the outside by fine stone carvin,^s. Down all the streets run aqueducts of water, whicli impart to the town an appearance of clean- liness. I'he impression thus ])roduced, howe\er, decidedly fades away as one becomes l)etl('r acquainted with the city. Tramways iwa laid through the [)rincipal streets, but the public cars run only on Sundays and teast-days. If one re(|uires to uso the tramwavs on anv oilier davs, one is oblined to hire a special cai'. Itows of j4as-lamps were to be seen dtiwn the principal streets and round the Plaza, but owing to the want of coal they were not in use when I was there. The atmosphere, of Arequipa is wonderfully clear, and the stars at ninht shone with the utmost brilliancy. This no doubt was owing to tlie height of the city above the sea, and lor the same reason I found that the temperature was con- siderably colder than at ]\Iollendo, especially in tlie even- ing. Ill tlie middle of tlie day the sun was exceedingly hot, and cases of sunstroke are frequent. After dinner in the evening I went out on to the I'laza to hear the military l)and. All the e/itc of Areiiui[)a were congregated in the square, l)ut 1 could not say that \ was much impressed by the scene. In former years a considerable amount of com- merce was carried on lietween Arequipa and I'liigland. and P .1 'It i < •^ ! '^ liii lU VI8IT TO CATHEDUAL. I >.\\ tliere wove still several English houses of business there. Trade, however, was almost at a standstill, apparently owini;' to the unsettled state of the country, and partly owinj^' to the recent epidemic of cliolera which had been raging in Chili, in conse(pience of which all the ports had been sub- jected to a rigid ([uarantine. The po[)ulation of Arequipa was about l!r),000, of which number about twenty or thirty were English. On Monday morning, directly after breakfast, I called on the r.ritish Yice-Consul, Mr If., to whom I had a letter of introduction. Throutih his kindness I was enabled to read a budget of English newspapers, wliicli allbrded nie a groat treat, as T had seen no English news for some months. After lunch my little Frencli landlord, who was ii cliatty and pleasant companion, took me to a garden on the out- skirts of the town across a lofty old-fashioned bridge. The garden itsoK was not worth the troul^le of visiting, but from it wo obtained a magnilicent bird's-eye view of tlie town. In the evening I was admitted as a visitor to the European Club, which is a comfortable and tknirishing institution supported by tlie European residents, and provided with an English billiard-table and a good stock of newspapers. Tuesday morning we devoted to a visit to the cathedral, the interior of whicli is of immense size. It is very bare and plain, and the only real object of interest in it was the puljiit, which was made of wood elaborately carved, and of native work of Are(pii[)a. A curious custom jirevails amongst the churches of Peru ; ladies are strictly forbidden to wear bonnets or hats, and they are compelled to attend Mass in black dresses. After inspecting the cathedral I paid another visit to tlie Vice- Consul, from whom I received a letter of introduction to a German firm at La Viv/., wliither I intended to proceed on my departure from Arequipa. Xext morning we started for Puno, having bid adieu to our I re. to in lb- pa on of at IS. le p 1 f , 1 1 ff 1 1" ' t |: ', 1- > 1 1 b ! i : f ill r 11 1 ; ■ » i * ^1 ,fl m, I I Vli.W ON UKOVA KAILWAV, I'KKL. . .^a.t—*.*»<*«y»— — m^ -f ^^ .xj^^-v m GREAT ELEVATIOX OF RAILWAY, 115 hospital )le landlord, whose charges we found exceedingly reasunable. AVe were obliged to rise early, for our train left at 0.45 A.M. There was nothing remarkable about the scenery during the first part of the journey, but we still continued to ascend l)y a winding and steep though gradual gradient. A lialt was made for breakfast at tlie station of I'anipa do Arrieros, where we found a very decent little roadside inn. After lialf an hcjur's delay we continued our journey, and after some distance we reached the highest point of the line, Crucero Alto, which stands 14,(iGU feet al)Ove the sea. This is, 1 believe, the greatest height ever yet attained by a railway, though tlie line wliicli was being constructed to Oroya, when completed, would exceed it. Tlie air was extremely keen at this great height from the sea, and some of the passengers suilered from a jieculiar affection caused by the rarelicd atmosphere, and known by the name of soroche. The symptoms are violent headache, nausea, and bleeding from the nose, and people not unfreipienlly die from its effects, which, however, were more severe in former times when long mountain journeys had to be made on mules. After Crucero Alto the line began to descend, and the scenery became much more interesting, between two stations, called respectively Lagunillas and Santa Lucia, we passed between two lakes, called Saracliocha and Cachi- pascana. Tlie line winds for a long time round their shores, and fresh views of them are aftbriled at every minute. In this neighbourhood we saw great numbers of vicunas, llamas, and alpacos. The two latter animals are domes- ticated. The llama is used as a beast of burden, being capable of carrying about 120 pounds. The alpaco is kept entirely for its wool, the export of which is one of the principal sources of income to tne country. After leaving the station of Lagunillas, the line ran along a flat table-land well cultivated, and watereel by a river running througli the midst of it. The scenery here reminded me very much of :i) I I'll I 1 1 II . I 116 PUXO — L AKK TITICACA. some parts of tlic Scottisli lli^lilaiuls. The station l)efore rimo is called Juliaca, and here is a Juuctioii for Cuzco. Several Indian women were on the platform at this station trying to sell various articles woven from vicuna wool. AVe reached I'uno at half-past seven in the eveninj^', and I put up at the Hotel Lafayette, a wretched dirty inn, hut the only one in the place. I'uno lies t)n the shores of Lake Titicaca, 12,505 feet above the sea. The construction of the railway from Mollendo to this town was undertaken by an Amerioau engineer of the name of Meiggs. It was com- menced ill 18G8, and completed in 1S75. The total length of the line is 335 miles ; the steepest gradients are about 1 in 22. There are only three bridges on the whole line, the longest of wliich is IGOO feet in length, and the highest 175 feet in height. The former is crossed just before reach- ing Arequipa. There is only one tunnel, and that very short. First-class fare from ]\Iolleiido to AriMjuipa was S solis, equal to £1, 3s., and from Are(|uipa t(.) Tuiio IS solis, or £2, 12s. Gd. Xext morning, Thursday, .""day 24, we embarked on board a steamer on Lake Titicaca, and we left I'uiio at a.m. There were two steamers on the lake, which had Iteen running tor the last eighteen years. TJiey were about 00 tons burden each, and were originally intendeil U)Y gunboats. They had been constructed in England, sent out in pieces, and brought up on the backs of mules from Arica. Jiy the time they reached the lake they are said to have cost the I'eruvian Clovernment their weight in silver. Tlie steamer on which we found ourselves was comfortable and well ke]it. Tlie cabins, though small, were neat and clean, and the food was abundant and excellent. The ship travelled at a i)ace not exceeding six knots an hour, owing to the scarcity and expense of coal. The engineer informed me that they were then using as fuel dried llama-dung, which made a hot fire and kept steam well. Tliere was no unpleasant smell con- T^! MAGXI KICKNT SCKNEIIY. 117 neclcd witli its use. In tliu uei''hl)Ourlioo(l of runo tlie lake is very sludlow and over^jrown witli ruslies, tlirou.^li wliich a narrow channel has lieen cut, iind its ]mssage marked hy buoys. The navi,tfation through it is intricate, but once clear of this there was plenty of water, which in some places was very deep. All the way across the lake the scenery was most niajjjnificent — numerous islands, beautifully wooded, and dotte(l about the surface and all around were raniies of snow-clad mountains. Anionj^rst these the most conspicuous Ht i ' * Indian balsas, Lake Tiiicaca, l\ru. peaks were those of Sorata, 24,812 feet hiL;h, and Illimani, 21,143 feet hi,nh. The former is the highest mountain in America, aiul, so far as is known at present, it is the tenth highest in the world. At 7 I'.M. we passed Titicaca Island, whence, according to tradition, came the founder of the Inca empire. This island was the most sacred of all the places in Peru, aiuI Prescott tells us that portions of the crops grown upon it were distributed to every granary throughout the kingdom. Xumerous ruins of Inca buildings still remain ll 1 f > I iM5 I ' I'tE . 1'^ i 1 1 I ii. 118 HOLIVIA. \i\)un tlie island, but uiit'ortuiiatt'ly it was too dark fur us to distinguish tliein. I'lit; Indians sail ni)()n tliu Jake in a vury curious boat called a Im/s,!. It is t^iiLircly constructed of reeds, with a S(j^uare sail uf the same nialerial. In these frail barks they j^o I'roni (me end ftf the laki' {>> the other, a nt the soldiers being tampered with by the political parties in opposition to the Ciovernment. This has ben fniind nec- essary owing to the frequent revolutions which ha\e been ellected in IJolivia by military ran^/s i/'e/af. 1 wi'Ut to see the regiment parade before ]iroceeding u[i(in a march. 1 was liy 11(1 means prepossessed by tin ir appearance, neither olli- cers nor soldiers seeming to nu' to be smart and up to their work. The uiiib)rm consisted of crimson trousers, and ;i sort of yellow hus.-ar tunic. Instead of boots they wore sandals. The one thing good about the reginu'iil was its band, which appearetl to jilay the whole daylong; and as the barracks were immediiitely op[)osite the hotel, we had the full beiielit of tlieir music. There are not above eighty Europeans altogether in La I'az, of whom only i-ix are English ; of the remainder the majority are (lermans. Sucre is the nominal ca])ital of IJolivia, hut Ea I'a/ is really tlie only town of importance in the country. All the foreign representatives reside there, I m mn SUNDAY MAHKET. 121 Sucre being little more tluui a village, and lieing reached only after a long and fatiguing journey by coach. Every European nation except Great l>ritain was represented at La I'az by di- plomatic oilicers. The late war which had occurred between Chili and Peru liad really been caused l)y ])olivia, with whom alone at first Chili had any misunderstanding. Unfortunately for I'eru, however, she had a short time previously signed an ollensive and defensive alliance witli Lolivia, in conse- quence of which she was drawn into the war. I'iolivia lost Co])ija, her only seaport cown, Ijut otherwise she sufl'ereil little or nothing through the war, almost the whole lu'unt of which had to be borne l)y Peru. Sunday, ^lav 27, was a line warm dav. The tir.it thing ill the morning I went out to visit a market which is held every Sunday in out; of the streets. As in the other market, the vendors were all Indian W(.)men,aiid their wares of every imaginable descriiition. It was a busy and picturesque sciue, the street being thronged with buvers, and the womoi being all chul in scarlet, blue, green, and other brilliant colours. After breakfast T went with the lanilhird of tiie hotel tn inspect tlie museum, v.'liich was open only on Sundays and Tlmrsdays. It was quite a small place, consisting of col- lections of minerals, stutl'ed birds, I've. ; but that which was far more interesting to me than jirything else was a (.'on- siderable collection of Inca antiquities, consisting chieHy of earthenware vessels and \ariou.' articles in co])]K'r. Some of the iormer were very elaborately painted, and many of thi'iu had iui a]qiear;ince of great antiquity. The landlord informed me that originally the collection had been much larger and more valuable, but that many of the best articles had been stolen by the custodian and sold to str.iugers. After hni' h we hiicd a tilbury witli four hor.ses, and, accom- panied by the hotel proprietor, drove to the village of Obriises. Tiie road was exceedingly rough and steep, and the drive was by no means comfortable. li! ! i i li iiiii n tri! 122 OBRASES, i Obrasos lies in a ravine about four miles from La Taz, and is a favourite place for picnics among the inhabitants of the cit}'. I was very greatly disappointed when I got there, for there was really nothing to see. On our way thither we passed long strings of donkeys on their way to La Paz laden with fruit, which was brought from warmer parts of the country, tlie climate of La Paz being too cold to admit of its culture. On our way back to the city we visited the race-course and the grounds belong- ing to the Sporting (,'lub. Tliese were not yet finished, as the institution had only recently been started. It was evident, however, that they would be a great acrpn'- sition to the town, the gardens being well laid out, and provided with pU'asant shade from the numerous gum- trees which were growing there. From a terrace in the grounds a splendid view of the races would be obtained. In the evening the weather was intensely cold, and I did not venture out of the hotel after dinner. The band, how- ever, played (Hi llie I'laza, though a very small audience collected round them. When 1 arose next morning I found thuL the weather had changed. The sky was dull and clouded, and at ten o'clock rain began to fall. At '2 p.m. it again cleared up, and remained tine for the rest of the day. After lunch I sallied fcnlh to make another imdeavour to junchase rugs. T was shown, huwevei', only those of inferinr (pial- ity, all the liest lieiug resiTved for export. In llie end I was obliged to content myself with a small mat and a couple of inferior prayer-rugs. I succeeded, thongh, in purchasing some interesting specimens of Inca [)ottery, as also Indian arrows, and stone and copper inijdements. As I was intending to leave La I'az earlv next morning on my return t ; L'l 124 ciiArTER x\y. A CURIOUS CKMETKHY KIJTUIiN JOUHXEY TO MOIXEXI>0 AX EXOr.ISII EXlilXE-niilVEl! lUCSUMPTlOX OF VOYAGE — CALLAO AliliAXCEMEXTS FOl! llEl'AIIilXd YAlIlT LIMA U.S.S. TliEXToX A liULL-FKillT L'ONSIUEItAlil.E DAMAOE TO THE YACHT. .Vt(U .?9-Ju,i'' 1.2, ISSS. I ; Xl lialf-past seven tlu' next niornin!,', Tuesday, 'Slwx 1*0. we left La I'a/; in the diligence, the weatlier ln'iiiL; cold and windy. "We were an hour and a lialt' ascending tlu; liill, from the sunnnit of wliicli we took our last look at the interesting city of La I'az lying heneath us, wilh its red- roofed houses. On our way \\\) we passed the cemetery, into which I turnt'd for a IVw niiinites. Tiie ])lace was certainly curious, and well \\nitli w visit. Instead of the coilins l)eing buried in the ground they wei'e ]tla( cd in niches in the walls, which are then l)ricked n]i, so tliat tlicn^ aie rows ujion rows of coilins one above anothei'. Tlie walls tlius present a most strange appearance. Thi' same thing, however, is to lie met witli in the Campo Santa in (Jcnoa, as also at Lisa and many s((, as also witli a stone containing a nuniber oC fossil shells, wliich had been picked up on ]\rount Sorato, 12,500 feet above tlie sea. Chililaya is quite a handet, consisting of not move than a couple of dozen houses; but the view of the Andes from the place is mag- nificent beyond description. AVe arrived at I'uno at half-past nine next morning, but there was no train leaving until the fcdlowing day. Tlic soli- tary hotel in the place was insufferably bad, and I was only too pleased to accept the kind offer of the captain to remain on board u)itil my train shoidd leave. In the course of the morning I walked up to the town of I'uno, which was about a mile distant from tlic landing-place. I found it a small, old-fashioned place, containing about 8000 inhabitants. In the I'laza stood a handsome old church, the interior of which, however, I did not visit. Here J bought some prayer-mats and vicuna rugs, which 1 found much better and cheaper than those which 1 had seen at La I'az. The rest of the day I spent on the steamer, as there was really nothing whatever to be seen on shore. The captain and engineer were friendly and obliging, and they both got up early next morning to see me oil" by the 0.45 train. I found their assistance with my luggage most acceptable. At Lagunillas T was niet by ]Mr S., who was waiting wilh horses to take me to his silver-mines. It appeared tluit he had sent me a letter to I'uno telling mo of this arrangement. Unfortunately I had not reeeived it, and as my time was so limited and 1 had not made the necessary arrangements, ] was comi)elled to forego the visit to the mini's, which would no doubt have afforded me great interest and enjoyment. 1 )uring our halt fir half an hour at Santa Lucia for l)reakfast I got into conversation with the engine- driver of tlie train. To my surprise I found that he was an Englishman, and that he hailed from Brighton. He appeared to me a highly educated man, aiul 1 lave no doubt that, like lili ' III' il>i \% r\. ih 12G ONCE MORE UNDER WAY. many other people one meets in these countries, he had a curious history of liis own, which, however, he did not reveal to me. From liim I received as a present a very curious Peruvian jar, covered with quaint figures. Tlie journey from I'uno to Arequipa was monotonous in tlie extreme, the country for tlie most part being only a sandy desert. We readied the latter place at G.oO p.m., and I received a hearty welcome back from the landlord at the Hotel Central, the cleanliness and comfort of which were a most agreealde change to my experience at La Paz. Leaving Arequipa at eight o'clock next morning, Friday, June 1, we reached ]\Iollendo at ."'.oO r.M,, and I was met at the station by ]\Ir li., ^Ir (}., and the sailing-master, from the latter of whom I heard, to my satisfaction, that every- thing had been going on well on board the yacht during my absence. I spent the night ashore at the Hotel del Ferro Carril, and next morning was very busy getting in provisions and settling bills. ]\loney was very scarce in ^folleudo, and I had the greatest difliculty in cashing a bill for £20. AVlien I went to bid gootl-bye to ^Ir II., who had been most kind and taken a great deal of trouble on our behalf, he presented us with an exceedingly handsome white alpaco skin. AVe went off to the yaclit at noon, and by half-past three we were once more under way. There was scarcely any wiutl at first, but shortly before six a nice breeze sprang up. We headed for Callao, 470 miles northward along the coast. The next three days were dull and rainy, the wind was right aft, and there was a considerable swell (ni, which caused us to tumble aljout a great deal. At "2 VM. on Tuesday, .Fune .", we made out the island of San Lorenzo, and at hali'-past seven in the evening we were at anchor in Callao liay. The next morning was tine, but, as usual on this coast, the; atmosphere was very hea\'y. As it was very dark when wo Ill CALLAO — LIMA. 127 arrived tlie evening before, we had dropped anchor a good distance off from tlie shore. At daybreak wo proceeded farther up the harbour, and took up our position near the United States men-of-war Trenton and Alert. Tliere were no British war- vessels in the harbour. The health-boat came off at 7.oO a.m., and gave us pratique. Sliortly after breakfast an enormous buiuUe of letters and newspapers arrived on board for the men. To my great surprise tliere were none for me ; I therefore concluded tliat my mail must be waiting at Lima for me, and I decided to go thither at once for tliem. Before doing so, however, I went to the floating-dock, and arranged about our entering in order that the damage wliich our keel had sustained througli runninu- on the rocks in Sholl Bay might be repaired. I found from the dock-master that we could not get in until the following Monday, and an agreement w\as made between us for that d.ay. I landed soon after eleven, and having called at the Consulate, I took the twelve o'clock train for Lima. The distance between the two towns was only 7f miles, but the train stops at five stations on the way, and the journey occupied half an hour. There are two lines between Callao and Lima, one belonging to an English company, and tlie other to an American. On reaching Lima I went direct to the Consulate : tliere were no letters awaiting me there, and I therefore went on to the Legation, where at length I found them. I lunched at the Hotel de France et d'Angleterre, a comfortable-looking inn kept by a French- woman. The cooking was very fair. Afterwards I strolled througli the town, with which T was considerably disap- pointed. The shops especially are very poor, and were not to be comjiared with those at liio de Janeiro and Monte Video. As usual in South American cities, there was a large and handsome Plaza in the centre of the city. In the middle of the Plaza was a tine fountain surrounded by busts of Peruvian heroes on pedestals. Two sides of tlie ' 5 iH f i!- 4 ll « 128 U.S.S. TilENTON. I ?'! ^m square were occupied by shops witli arcades iu front of llieni, on the third was the cathedral, and on the fourth the Palace of the President. The cathedral is an iniposinff- looking' building' with two lofty towers, and the oak carvings in the choir are exceedingly beautiful. The supposed remains of Pizarro, by whom the catliedral was founded, rest within its walls. There were several other churches in the city, the exteriors of which were striking: the finest of these appeared to me the church which is dedicated to St Francis. The town was well lit by gas : the electric light had bi'cn introduced here, but the company became bank- rupt, and now it is disused. After dining at the same hotel where I had lunched, I returned to Callao by the 9 r.M. train. I slept on board the yacht, and landed at eleven. After calling at the Consulate I took a walk through the town, and was agreeably surprised to tind so clean a place, as foreign seaports are generally dirty. The shops, moreover, were very fair, the principal stores being kept by Europeans and Americans. There is an unusual proportion of foreigners in Callao, and the city boasts three clubs — English, Italian, and l*eruvian. The 1 wo former kindly enrolled me as an honorary member. In the afternoon I called on the captain and officers of the U.S.S. Trenton in return for a call which I had received from them in the morning. The ship was a fine vessel of rather an old-fashiuned type. I spent but a short time on board, and then returned to the yacht. The evening was close, and the next day very hot, so much so, indeed, that after going ashore for a few minutes in the morning I found it cooler and more pleasant to return to the yacht. In the course of the afternoon I visited the docks, which are of considerable extent, and with a railway running the entire length of the (piays. Afterwards, accom- panied by ]\Ir W., the British Vice - Consul, I went to see the English cemetery, which lies about three miles from the \ EXPOSITION GARDENS. 129 ■h a a :o y 1- town. It is neatly laid out and well kept, and in it wei'e several monuments erected to otHcers and men of different ships of the British navy. Tlie Peruvian cemetery was near by, and there, as at La Paz, they buried in the walls. Xear at hand were the ^rounds belongiuL; to the llitle Club, through which we strolled. Tiiey were very tastefully laid out, and Mr W, informed me that in summer the band played there (m Sunday evenings. On our way back Mr W. took me into his liouse, and kindly presented me with a most curious piece of Inca pottery. I spent a short time in the evening at the English Club. The next day was again dull, though there was no appear- ance of rain. I went to Lima by the twelve train, and visited the Exposition Gardens, which were situated about two miles beyond the city. They were of very considerable size, and before the outbreak of the late war they had contained a large collection of animals and birds. Tlh^ Chilians, however, had carried away everything of value from the place, besides doing an enormous amount of damage to the buildings and gardens themselves. The consequence was, that there was little to be seen, and the gardens themselves were in a dilapidated condition. Tlu; principal gateway, however, was very handsome. After purchasing some Inca pottery at a shop whicl) I discovered in a back street, I returned to Callao by tlie five o'clock train. Tlie following day, June 10, was a Sunday, and we went to church at half-past ten on boar! li I if 130 A BULL-FIGHT, . II ii if J i« If I i i •(• i ■■ I , I season. Tliu rinj^', wliieli was situated in the I'laza d'Acho, ■\vas very similar to that at ]\Ionte Video, and was capable of seating about 10,000 people. The attendance, however, was very small, although seven bulls had been advertised to be killed. The proceedings commenced at a quarter to four by a pro- cession of the picadors and other performers across the arena. After bowing to the President, these took up their stations to await the entry of the bull. Three of the men were on horseback, the rest on foot. On a signal being given by the firing of a rocket, the door of the bulls' stable was thrown open, and the first one trotted out into the arena. The animal was of a bi'own colour, of moderate size, and poor in condition. Directly he caught sight of the horses he made a charge at them. It was really beautiful to see the way in which the riders avoided the bull's rush. Every care was taken to prevent the horses from being injured, and in this respect the bull-fight at Lima appeared to me less cruel than at Monte A^ideo or in Spain. After jdaying the bull for about five minutes on horseback, a bugle was sounded, and the second part cf the performance conunenced. Darts were brought in about a iuul long and decorated with ribbons. These were given to the bandarilLjs, who endeavoured to induce the bull to charge them. ( )n his doing so they nimbly stepped aside, and planted a dart in each side of his neck. The main object was to perform tliis trick as neatly as possible, and when the bandarillo succeeded in putting both his darts into the animal's neck he was greeted with loud applause. This so-called sport went on for about ten minutes, at the end of which time the wretched animal had six darts hanging from the shoulders. The bugle was again sounded, and the matador appeared to perform the finishing act. This man carried a straight double-edged sword and a red Hag. The picadors then urged the bull towards him, and endeav- oured to persuade him to charge him. After some time he lie ho lU ilie |v- lie AX INSKILFUL MATADOIl. 131 did so, but tlic matador inado a bad shot and did not drive the sword in dee]) enounli. The wound, tliereforo, was not fatal, as it ought to liave l)een, ami the poor beast, with blood streaming down liis shoulders, cliarged right and left and knocked the matador over. His attention was innuediately distracted, or otherwise he would probably have killed him. Once again he charged, and again the matador only succeeded in wounding him. Loud hisses were now raised by the audience, who cried out for another matador. The bull, however, gave the man another chance, and this time ho managed to give a fatal blow. Even then the poor animal was at least five minutes in dying, and it was a sickening sight to see him swaying himself slowly from side to side struggling with death. As .soon as he fell a team of mules was lirought in ; the carcass was made fast and dragged out of the ring at a gallop, the band in the meanwhile playing a triumphant march. After a short pause another Imll entered, and the pro- ceedings in the tirst case were repeated. This bull, however, was a remarkably game creature, and proved too much for the picadors and bandarillos. In a few minutes, therefore, other cattle were introduced, and he, together with them, was driven back to his stable, having saved his life for the present by his indomitable courage. The third bull was of a dun colour and fought well. As in the tirst instance, the nuxtador made several bad shots before he finally succeeded in despatching him. The fourth and last bull was a miserable-looking animal, and was neatly killed at the first attempt. This finished the afternoon's performance, with which on the whole I was considerably disappointed. The bulls were not particularly wild, and the matadors and bandarillos were exceedingly clumsy, and I resolved not to visit another bull- fight in Lima. After dining at the Hotel de I'rance et d'Angleterre I i' 1 ;l I \w \. K II l; A i i ii HP lit' hf 1 i , 1 ! i 1 ; 1 1 ^t. n 1 ■ 132 THK NYANZA DOCKED AND SURVKYKD. roturnod toCallao at 9 r.M.,inul tin; nextday I a,s, priuciiially oi't'uijiod in uiakiii,^' i»iu- clUiSi's. 1 liad bt'fii electecl an honorary meinbur of tlio riittMiix Clul", wliifli was cliii.'lly iiit(;iidt!d for Mni-lisli residents in tl,u city, and liad a yood assortment of news- papers. It was also proviiled with a fair library, and had a tine billiard-room, in which I sjjcnt the afternoon, returning to Callao bv the 5 r.M. train. On Tuesday, June ll', we ran our yacht into the lloating- dock. IVe commenced operations at 7 a.m., and it was half- past nine before we got finally locked in. Soon after ten pumping was connnonced, and by half-past eleven the dock was emptv. As soon as the bottom of the vacht becanm visible we found that she had sustained considerably more damage than we had anticipated. 1'he false keel amidships had been torn away, the main keel and garboard strakes were injured, six tons of lead were altogether gone, and another piece was sticking imt ahuost at a right angle. A great portion of the copper was also gone from amids]ii])s, whilst almost the whole of the wood casing below the lead had been torn off. The surveyors came olf at twelve o'clock, and made an exhau.stive survey of the vessel. They expressed an opinion that it was simply marvellous that she had been able to .sail so well since the accident. AVe now were able to realise how providential it was tliat she came oil' the rocks when she did, as in less than another hour she must inevit- ably have 1 ad the water in her. It was evident that the repairs would take some time, as the tanks and part of the ballast would have to be removed before the new lead could be bolted on. I therefore made up my mind to make the best of the delay, and to visit mean- while the princi[)al places of interest within reach of Callao. I i -1 .> .> CHAPTER XV. KXCUHSIOXS IX I'KItU— nilCt.A A NdVKL MoUK Ol" TliAVKLLlXCi IIOTKL QUAUTKItS AT LIMA ( i )(lv-l'|(lHTIX(i I.UTTlilUlW A (ioiil) liAiaiAIX .SAX LoinCXZO A CLIiluL'S IlKLIGIOUS CUSTOM I'llOORESS ol" WOUK OX MKPAII! ol' VACllT. June Lj-JS, ISSS. AccoiiUixtiLY next nioniinn-, "Wednesday, June lo, we left Cal- lao at seven o'clock by the Oroya railway for Chicla, acconi- jjanied by J\Ir ]>. of the s.s. lietriever. Wo, changed trains at Lima, where we found !Mr ][., the Company's manager, waiting for us. This gentleman ha,17r),0('0 .is far as Chicla. The track, however, was rh-eady graded, and tunnels bored as tar as Oroya, 50 miles iieyond Chicla. J was informed that over smasjrrj'.ju'.'.'tj— I '-' -i^'^J-J — ' with in has scen- ■1 hi- 'hicla asceii- .s the t'roiu CL'tl ill liniiial Cent) hiiv- I track, ll'ar as over c X 'ii I:', I, § \M 'l> ' I J: ' 1 1 i '■ • 'J Ii f - i 1 , 1 f 1' ' l^ii, ^ t , 1 i' ^ • ,1 , i L 1 k -UM.. .^" J'.'."^' CHICLA. 135 7000 workmen were killed l)y accident or died of fever or other diseases during- the construction of the railway. The niaxinuim grade is 1 in 25, and the sharpest curve is odo feet radius. The Cima tunnel, nine miles the other side of Chicla, is 15,045 feet above tlie level of the sea. This is, I believe, the loftiest point that has Ijcen reached Ijy any railway in the world. Chicla itself is a small village situated 12,220 feet above tlie sea, and 87 miles by rail from Lima. 15etween these two termini the line passes through 42 tunnels and over eight large liridges. Landslips and Hoods occur every year, and this makes tlie line an exceedingly expensive one to maintain. At (,'liicla the ijr is very rarefied, and strangers constantly sutler from sorocln). After seeing the train oh' at eight o'clock next morning on its return to Lima, we fitllowed siut three-quarters of an h(.)ur later on a liand-car. Tlie hand-car was a low, open truck on four wheels, holding six persons — three in front and three l.)ehind. It was ti'ted with powerful brakes, and was comfortably cushii)ned and had excellent springs. Tiiis was a s[)ecially constructed hand-car for the use of the ^irincipal ollicials and their friends, the ordinary cars being very uncomfortalile and without springs. The brakesman in charge of our car, strangely enough, came from my own estate in Mid -Lothian. AVhen he was a i)oy his father rented one of my farms, and he was intensely interested in asking and hearing I'rom me news concerning the principal resiilents of the neighljourhood, nuiny of wliom he had kn ;wn in his youth. (_)ur journey down the line in the hand-car was most interesting. AVe shot through tunnels and tlashed round curves at a rate of thirty miles an hour, and the slightest ol)structiou on the track would inevitably have capsized us all. ^U all the princijial bridges we stopped and got out of the car in order to examine their construction, II! !! ifj '4 I. 1M hi \ 1 It ^ pp I Si ( i y ^ ih\ im ! * 136 A novp:l mode of travelling. and to enjoy the prand and awfnl views down tlie gorges over wliich they passed. On onr way wo were regaled by the men with accounts of murders wliich had been committed upon the line. Only a short time before our visit, an un- fortunate plumber coming down in a hand-car vras mistaken for a Government paymaster, shot, and killed: his assassins were never discovered ; l)ut this goes without saying in the country of I'eru, and it is exceedingly doubtful whether any steps whate-'er were taken to search for them. "We stopped for breakfast at the station of ]\[atucana, where was an hotel kept by an En^Llishwoman. A\'e had an excellent meal, and to judge not only from our own experi- ence but fii-iu the various remarks which we read in the visitors' book, the hotel appeared to be remarkably comfort- able and well kept. At Matueana we caught up the train, which had started from Chicla three-quarters of an hour before us. AVe gave it another good start, and then resumed our journey, halting for a considerable time at the Verrugas bridge, with which we were exceedingly interested. T'pon it were several Ijarrels Idled witli water; these are placed there not only as a protection from lire, but as a means of constantly testing the bridge's level. Xo accident had ever hitherto happened upon the line, which, considering the steep gradients and sharp curves, speaks very well for the management. A hand-ciir precedes every train coming down, in order to ensure no obstacle being in the way. The (lovcrnment had not yet seized the line, but it was believed they would shortly do so. AViiether this has been the cast! or not up to the present time I have i;;'t heard. "We stayed for a short time at San IJartolonie and Ghosica, and after leaving the latter station our progiess became much slower. We had by this time descended the greater ])ait of the mountain, and tlie gradient now became very moderate. We reached Lima Station just in tinit! to see the D.5 I'.M. train for Callao steaminL! out of it ; we therefore "n. •i'! TENDERS FOR REPAIR OP YACHT. 137 proceeded to the end of our journey upon tlie liand-ear. The trip liad been altoi,fether thorouglily .successful, inter- esting, and enjoyable. On arriving at (.'allao I went to the Consulate to examine the tenders which had been sent there for the repair of the yacht. There were oidy two, of which the Dock Company's was the lowest. This amounted to 10,700 solis or £1000, wliich seemed to me a most exorbitant sum. However, I supposed tliat the tenderers knew that I was at their mercy, for tlie yacht must of necessity undergo repairs, and I was compelled to pay tlie sum. I went on board intending to sleep there, but I found the saloon and my cabin already pulled to pieces in order to enable the men to get at the l)allast; it was therefore impossible to stop on board, and I determined to take up my quarters for the present at Lima, liefore proceeding to the latter town by the 8 p.m. train I dined with Mr 15. on l)oard the I'etriever. Fridai/, Jinir 15. --1 was now estaldished in very com- fortable fpiarters at tlie Hotel de France et d'Angleterre at Lima, but most days I went to and fro to Callao. I called on Captain (1. and the oflicers of the U.S.S. Alert, and afterwards engaged the second mate of the Kinross in the place of ]\lr Caiter, who was leaving my service. On this evening we heard of the death of the Emperor Frederick of (icnnaiiy after his brief reign. Xews of his death, tliough iKtt uiu \]iected, seemed to cast a great gloom even over such a distant town as Lima. Xext morning 1 heard of a small collection of Inca antiquities which was for saU' ; I therefore went to have a look at it. It ])riii('i[)ally consisted of various articles of pottery, none of which were at all extraordinary or out of the way. 'I'he collection was certainly small, yet the proprietor asked me .tliOO for it! Jn the afternoon I paid a visit to the ignited States Legation, ami afterwards went on to the riicenix Clul», where I was introduced to several members '?. ■ PI i:]8 VISIT TO HOSPITAL AT CALLAO. i l-i of the diplomatic corps. In the evening two niilitaiy bands played in the Tlaza Mayor, which was crowded witli peo])le. Si'n(f((//, Jane 17. — "Went over to Callao by the 9 A.M. train, and attended churcli on board the Trenton ; afterwards lunching with tlie wardroom ollicers. In the afternoon ]\[r AY. took me to the cock-pit, whicli was exceedingly like a miniature bull-ring, with an arena in tlie centre, and rows of seats and boxes around it cai)able of holding about 200 people. AVe found that we were an hour too early, and we therefore went round to the back to have a look at the cocks. There were about fifty, the majority of wliich were large handsome birds. They all belonged to the establishment, and were matched against outsiders not iighting amongst tliemselves. In the old days of cock-fighting in England the l)irds were carefully trimmed, but heie they were left in their natural state with their wattles and tails on. The spurs with wliich tlv.y were provided when fighting were pieces of steel about two inches long and a (piarter of an inch broad, slightly curved, and with their points and upper edge as keen as a razor. There still being upwards of half an hour to spare before the proc^icdings were to commence, ve went to see the Hospuai, in wliich ]\Ir AV., as Jiritish Consul, took a great interest, and of which hr was one of the principal managers. It was small, but (|uite suflicient for the requirements of tile port, and was admirably conducted by French Soaus de Charite. Tliere was a special ward for sailors, and for the nuiintenance of this a tax of four cents per registered ton is levied on all shipping that comes into the port. At the time of our visit there were several seamen in this ward. There was also a cliildren's ward, which interested me greatly. I was much struck with the cleanliness and good ordrr disjilayed throughout, whicth did '"mmense credit to the Sccurs de Charite. Of these there were ten, two beinu' Peruvians and tlie rest French. h f ( COCK-FIGHTING. 139 AVe returned to tlic eock-jjit afterwards, and found the attendance somewhat small and entirely consisting of the lower orders. Soon after our arrival the proceedings com- menced. The cocks were brought in and allowed to take stock of one anotiier ; they then were taken out again and their spurs tied on, after which the judge examined them one l)y one. They were then taken to opposite sides of the pit by two men, swung backwards and forwards once or twice, and then placed on the ground facing one another. They invari.ably commenced by pecking at th"? ground, and after a few moments ( ■ of them would utter a shrill cry of defiance, which was iuunediately res[)onded to b} the other. They then ilew at one another, and a sharp and short contlict ensued, the battle being usually very speedily decided. The spectators were nuuh excited, and a great deal of betting went on ; but the thing that aflbrdcd me most amusement was the behaviour of the victorious cock, who at the close of the combat strutted round the ring crowing triumphantly, and evidently extremely self-conscious and elated at the victory. "We saw live contests decided, and were then quite satisfied ; we therefore left the cock-pit, and I returned to Lima. The next morning 1 visited the yacht to see how the work was progressing. This I found to be slow and unsatisfactory, there only being half-a-dozen men emj)loyed on the work altogether. I returned to Lima in the afternoon and spent the evening at the Union Club, which is the leading and most fashionable club in Lima ; the members are almost all native Peruvians, and it WTts considered a special complimBxit to me to elect me as an honorary member. The interior of the club was certainly very handsome. The same evening 1 witnes; 'd the drawing of a lottery, for which the inhabitants of Linui appear to have a great passion. Tickets are hawked about the streets and on the platforms of railway stations by men and boys, who receive > 1 1 TT It* \l i I I; i 3, M r I L 140 A GOOD BAllGAIN. a commission on their sales. The price of eacli ticket is 10 cents, and tlie lotteries are drawn regularly twice every week. Tiie principal ]n'ize in each drawing is 1500 solis, and there are numerous other prizes, gradually diminishing in value down to 30 solis. The profits are devoted to the support of the hospitals in Lima and Callao, which but for this system of lotteries would probably be un- able to exist; for they receive no State aid whatever, and the voluntary subscriptions are exceedingly small. A por- tion of the profits from the bull-ring is also given for the same object. , The next few days passed somewhat slowly. On AVednesday, June 20, after my breakfast, I was in- formed that a gentleman wished to see me. I found that he was the owner of the collection of Inca pottery wliicli I had seen on the Saturday previous. He came to offer me his collection again, and after a considerable amount of bargain- ing I finally became its possessor for the sum of £00, being £107 less than he had originally asked for it ! On receiving them I showed them to j\Ir Kieffer, who was considered the principal authority on the subject in Linui. After a careful inspection he pronounced them genuine, and gave it as his opinion that I had made a good bargain. As in curiosities and antiquities in e\ery part of the world, so here with regard to Inca antiquities (piite a ilourishing trade exists in forgeries and imitations. These latter are ])rincipally manui'actured at I'ayta, and are so cleverly manipulated tliat they have all the ai)pearance of having been buried in the earth for centuries, and it is often very dillicult for any Itut the most experienced connoisseur to be able to detect the fraud. In addition to the pottery, I secured several agri- cultural and musical instruments of the Incas, as well as many different specimens of cloth. On Thursday I paid oJf Mr Carter, our late chief oiTicer, with whom I was exceedingly sorry to part. He had, ■HH^ SAX LORENZO. 141 however, secured an excellent berth in tlie I'.S.X. Company, and the opportunity was too good for him to refuse. Friday, June 22, I went, accompanied by ]Mr ]>., in our steam-launch to Frontin Island, which is a ,tiieat resort for seals. Unfortunately there was a considerable swell on and we were unable to land. This was all the more disai)point- ing, because we could see largo numbers of seals and sea-lions along the beach. "We fired at several, but the boat was tossing about so greatly, and we were so long a distance away, that T doubt whether we struek any of them. Finding it impossible to get any s])ort here we steamed along the shore to San Lorenzo, where there were at one time large smelting-works. These, however, were now disused, though the buildings were still standing, and there were several houses, with a landing-pier in one of the bays. "We also saw the remains of a lighthouse that had been in course of erection before the war eonnnenced, and was intended to replace the one now in existence, the latter l)eing of very little use, as the light is of small power, and the situation too high above the sea. At the conclusion of the war the reruvian resources were so crippled that the completion of this lighthouse was abandoned, at least for the time. "When the cholera epidemic broke out in Chili, the Government of Peru estaldished a lazaretto on the island of San Lorenzo in case the disease should appear in the port. Fortunately, however, this did not occur. The island was burned and jtarched, and no signs of vegetation were to be seen upon it. "We returned to Lima in the afternoon, l)assing on our way the Chilian ironclad lUanco Encelado, whicli had arrived in the harbo'ir tliat morning. Hatarda//, June 2;5. — "We shipped our new mate, Mr Law- less. On visiting the yacht I found the work progressing better than I had expected. In the afternoon I returned to Lima, and went to tlie Palace to call on the Minister of the Interior. The object of my visit related to a dispute I 'i ;* I,' . m 142 A CUIUOUS RELIGIOUS CUSTOM. - ( I wliicli I liad l)ecu liaviiif? with the authorities at the Custom- house about the duty on some ci.nars whicli liad been sent out to me from Euf'hind. I found tlie ]\linister courteous and polite, and lie immediately ordered the cigars to be de- livered on board my yacht free of duty. The I'alace was ])uilt originally by Tizarro, and was formerly the residence of the Spanish Viceroys ; now it is used as the ollicial dwelling of the I'resiilent, and in addition to this it contains all the different Government ofliees. It is a long low building, situated in the Plaza ]\Iayor. On leaving the Palace I took a stroll into the Alameda de los Descalsos, one of the most fashionable i)romenades in Lima. It consists of a straight walk of considerable length, prettily laid out with ilowers and shrubs, and adorned with nmny statues. The band plays here frequently, and on these occa- sions all the best peo])le in Lima resort to the promenade. The next day was the festival of St John the liaptist, and it was also a Sunday. In accordance with the custom of the count/y, every one on that day was wearing yellow daflbdils. A few miles outside Lima there stands a village, the name of which I do not remember, where these dalibdils grow in enormous abundance, and crowds of people visit this village on St John the Paptist's Day, returning with baskets laden with flowers. I tried to discover the origin of this custom, but no one seemed able to inform me about it. On ]\Ionday I lunched with Mr S., the inanager of the Dock Company, and afterwards went with him on lioard the yacht to examine the progress of the works. All the Hags in the harljour were Hying half-mast high on account of the death of a famous I'eruvian admiral, who had arrived in the Government transport Santa Posa the evening before, and had died that morning. His body was taken ashore in the evening, and buried the following day in Lima with great pomp and ceremony. The weather was now extremely close, and so oppressive I COLLECTIONS OK INC A ANTIQUITIES. 143 ;.s that it seemed almost iinpossilile to summon up eiier<,'y onou*,'h to do anything. Durin,!^' tlie middle of the day it was impossilile to ^o out of doors. On the afternoon (jf Tuesday, .lune 20, Mr Kicfier took me to see two private collections of Inca auticpiities. The iirst jdace which wo. visited contained, in addition to line specimens of Inca work, a most nui,!j;nilicent set of anti(]ue furniture, which had helon.ucd to the S])aiush Vicentys. The articles consisted chictly of tables, chairs, writing- cal)inets, Sec, exquisitely inlaid with motlier-of-iiearl. The second collection was entirely composed of Inca work, every article of which was perfect of its kind. The owner had been busily collecting for over tiftcen years, find besides a great variety of pottery, there were many beautiful and valuable articles wrought in gold, silver, copper, and wood. In addition to these, there weri; numerous examples of Inca workmanship in cloth, the colours of wliieh were as brilliant as on the day when they were manufactured. It was dilU- cult to believe that most of them had been lying in the ground for many centuries. Our host had also some won- derful specimens of embroidered clothing worked by Span- ish ladies resident in Lima during the last century. I fre(|uently enjtjyed a ramble by myself through the town, watching the manners and custopvs of the place, and making myself acquainted with tlie ins and outs of the city. The river Itimac ilows through the midst of it, but it is generally nearly dry, and princiitally utilised by wasiierwomen. At one ])lace it is spanned by a large stone structure called the Desemparados liridgc;, which is a favourite station for ped- lai's and vendors of fruit. There is a large Chinese colony in Lima, and small Chinese restaurants and shops are to be found there. These people were originally imjwrted to work the guano, and when the system of contract labour was abolished many of them remained, and not a few have intermarried with the natives. 144 CIIArTER XVT. A li.WCK — AXOTHKU lU[.I.-ll(ill T A Ii( /AT-I!A( IC — THK CATIIKHliA L THE NATIONAL MHHAHY (OMI'I.KTI'iN iH' HKI'AIUS TO VACIIT — nii'KiL'UuiK.s WITH Tin: siiip-ciiandi.ku.s — an'co.v- -nniciXG 1-OU " lILAfOS " AX I^■Tl■:l{l;^^TIX^; 1H? \\\> the sides of tlie cage out of reach of the bull; he was, however, inunediately knocked down with poles, the audience mean- while being evidently mucli amused. The bull, however, turned his back on him in jiity antl disdain, and absolutely refused to tidce any further notice of him. The whole exhi!>itioii iippeared to me disgusting, brutal, and cowardly. As no ellbrts could induce the bull to return to the charge, another liuU was turneil into the arena to pass the time away until the former should see fie to despatch the poor bear. The new-comer was a miserable specimen, with no pluck whatever about him; but after many attempts, he was at last induced to charge the matador, who killed him ^•ery neatly. As the bull in the cage still refused to " go for " the I'll 41^ ii .1 ^11 \ 14G A ItlSGRACKFUL rEIlFORMANL'l-;. lieav, lie V" is tunii'il (»ut iiitn llie arena, ami I'ounlit uiost iuaiiicly. 'riu; Nviutcliod inatador luadu a i^real mess of killing liiiii ; it was only ui'Ler several attempts that lie tiiuilly suc- ceeded ill i.utting him out of his misery. The fifth bull was then iutrodueed, and i)roved U) be by far the best ()f the lot. lie was a savaj^e and vicious beast, and from tlie lirst moment of his aijpearance he evidently meant to do all the mischief he could. One of tlu; rhiilns had a very narrow escajx', and the matador, in altenii)tin^ to kill him, missed his stroke. Tiie bull immediately rushed at him, and the man at lirst dodged round the cage and then ran as fast as he could across the ojien, with the bull after him. ][e turncii and threw his flag into the aninud's face, but this did not stop him. TIic matador slipi)ed and fell under the bulk's sery feet, and it seemed inevitably all uj) with him. A couple of c/n(/rH, however, dashed pltickily forward and distracted the attention of the bull, who was then driven back to his stable. After witnessing the despatch of another animal, nho was killed in the clumsiest manner ])ossible, I left the ring, by no means satisfied with myself for liaving witnessed such a disgraceful performance. The day after this bull-tight I went for a ride with Captain (I. Our hors(!s were very go.)d animals, about ]4\ hands high, and were, according to the language oi the country, (■idled "pacers" — that is to say, instead of trotting, they run along the ground, the motion being ([uite easy, very much like sitting in an •irm-chair. This mode of proceeding is eminently adapted for long; journeys. "NVe had a very pleasant lide of about IL' miles in the country, lait we found the roads very indillerent ; indeed they coid-t scai'cely be called roads at all, being little more than mere bridle-tracks. Wcdncsdaji, Julu 4. — A boat-race took place between the gigs of the Trenton and ihc Alert. The distance was three nautical miles, and the race \\as kecnlv contested and 1 J >*,ji THE BODV OF IT/AlMtO. 147 well rowed, bciii,i;' won by llie 'rrciiinii by m I'cw sfcdiids only. T!ie race took iilacc in (•(nuiecliou with the iVstixities of lidep'Jiulencc Day. The lucu-of-war nviti; all tlrrsscd with l!aj.'s, and a salute was; tin'(l at iiooii. A dance was given iii ;he at'ternooM on board the Tr<:nlon, at which oOO ])eoj>le .vere ]iresenl, consisting' of reruvians, Kni-lish, and .luiericans. 1'iie shii) presented a y^ixy 'ind animated appearance, and dancin''' was carried on with j^reat vigour on the iii)per d('ck. The following dr^- 1 a,L;ain went with .Mr Kieller to st'e a collection of luca anli([uities. These included some very line rare specimens, a few of which were new e\cn to Mr Kieller himself. The owner (jf ihe collection was williu.t; to sell it as a whole, but he would not ]iart with individual pieces. I therefoie was unable to get possessinn df anything from him. In the afteriiDoii T went to the cathedral to sec the body of I'izarro, or rather, I ought to say, what is said to be his body. It is kept in a rough deal-box in a vault under the higli alt;..-, and is in an exceedingly bad state of jircservation. Vll tlic lingers antl toes had been broken oil' and carried away as curios by visiLors, and the skelettju was wrapi>ed in a dirty rag. All the ])robal)ilities are against tlu^ genuine- ness of the body; Init I'veii on the possibility that it may be so, it see. us a most scandalous thing that iiK-re care and decent reve.'ence should not be shown to tin- reputed remains of one who, with a mere; handful of followers, conoueretl a powerful nation, and added a country glowing with resources to the Spanish dominions. From the cathedral I went to the National Library, where was an interesting i)ainting ie]tresenting the funeral of .Vtahualpa, the last of the Inca sovereigns. The )»ieture, which is very celebrated, describes the scene in chuich, with the wives of the inca rushing in ami trying to sacrilice them- selves oxer his body. Fatiier N'alvcrdc, I'i/.arro's chaplain, 1 148 COMPl.KTION OF ItKPAIKS To VA<'HT. l! \\][u i.s iieifoniiiii^ the iuiirriil .siTvice, is \vaviiig llieiu bark willi his liiiiid, and tlw cxpriissiiiu on his face is exceodiaj^ly tine. Tills pk'turu was taken to Chili after tlie late war, Imt after cunslderahh^ nejfotiatidns it was ultimately restored. The Iil)rary is a lar.ne building, ]t(i.ssessing a ated; but there was no doubt that it had been well and faithfully executed, and I question whether the I'epaii's could have been done better elsewhere. .Mthough the yacht had thus lieen enabled to Ljet afloat auain, much still rcnuiined to be done upon lu'r before we coidd be In readiness to set sail a,L;ain. The cabins, saloon, furniture, and decks wi're all ujtside il(»wn, and the whole ship re([uired paint Iul;. 1 had a j^reat deal of Jllliculty and unpleasanlncf^s with .Messis S. v'v Co., our ship-chandlers, who beliaveil iiio--t Infamously in many respects, ami wlio caused me further delay. On Tuesday, July 10, 1 left the hotel at J.lma and returned to Callao, Intendini;' to live on the yacht. A\'e had been fairly comfortable durin.u our slay at the llotcd de l''rance i^t d'An,4leterre, ihoULjli the hoiid was not by any means so ;^ood as it miiiht be. It ap])eared to us that the projirletress did not excicise sullicient personal siijiervlsion, and there was great room for Iniiirovenieut in the cooking. Tiie apart- ments, however, were clean, and tin ojien court used as a dinlng-saloon was very ])leasant. Having slept on board tiie yachl for two nights, we found m AN cox. 140 !i the smell nf paint so unbearable below tbat we accepted iiii invitation kiniUy given iis by C'ajjtain ^l. tn take n]^ our niglit <|uarters on the J{etvie\er. The weather now underwent a change, and bir the next three days it rained considerably in the morning, tliough it invarialily cleared up towards the afternoon. On Friday we had a ]ileasnnt little dance on ihe Trcn- t(.n, not more than lilty ])eople being present. i^aturday, duly 14, was the anniversary of the taking of the r>astillc, and the in* le \as decorated with ilags. There was also n/t'fr in the Exposition (hardens in Lima. Thinking that we bad encroached sullicicntly on the hos- pitality of uur fiieids on board the .'Jetrievcr, we made another attemi)t to lake up i nr (piarters on board our yacht on Sunday, July 15; but ibc; smell of the paint was still so disagreeable thai wc; decided to icturn once more to binh\ for a few days to our old lioiel. Xext day ^ir Kieirer suggested that we .should go to Ancou to dig for "huacos." We acco)'diugly took the 4 r.M. train, arriving at Ancoii at 'r'M) i'.m., tiie distance being a little over twenty miles, the lirst half of which lay through sugar plantations^ and the remainder over a sandy waste. A neon is merely a seaside watering-place, largely fre(piented in sununer by the inhabitants of Lima. There is a row of private and detached hou.ses facing the sea, the ])avement being composed of wooden boards sinular to that at Trouville in France. The town suMcrod considerably during the war, anil still sliowi'd traces of the Chilian bombardment, which was a most scandalous act, and entirely op])osed to all civilised warfare; for the town was merely a sununer })lea- sure resort, and was .absolutely destitute of any means of defence. Tiie Chilian (roo])s behaved more like bandits than disciplined soldieis, plundering and buining not 'ii most cases placed over the faces, vnd as nothing but .i lew gourds had been buried with them, these babies had evidently been the children of very poor parents. On tlie surface of the ground there are no indications of graves, and their positions arc asceitained liy ])robing the ground with iroi. rods. A person accustonjcd to the work can teli at once by the way in which the rod imters the ground wliether a grave lies underneath or not. These graves vary greatly in depth, some being only a foot below the surface, while others are as much as lo feet deep. After a considerable anu)unt of digging we came across some bodies of full-grown people, c\idently those of fishermen, for in addition to the usual cloth wrappers, they had iiets wound round them, and a great number of netting-needles and balls of twine wt-re lying beside theni. The- cnsuim prevailed amongst the Incas of burying with a person the whole of his property. About ten o'clock we brought to light a large, (lee)>, and elaljorately constructed giave, or, more strictly speaking, vault. We W(irk('d at it for ;il)out an hour, then hunger compelled lis to leave and repair lo tlie hold for lireakfast. There we were the guests of a iV'iiivian gentleman whom we had casu- allv met in the train on our way from Lima. This nentlenuin had specially ordered a national dish which !ie was anxious for nu( to taste. It was called caxucla, and was a very thick SOU]!, similar to biAch-jiDich in .Scotland, except that instead of mutton it was made wilii chicken and vegetables. I thought it exceedingly gootl : liut 1 certainly had an excel- lent appetit(! at the linu', anil was not altogether in a con- dition to lie an im])artial judge. i' r[ I 1 / i ' Ri I I, 111 III 152 AX INIKKKSTIXCi DLSCOVERV. After brofikfast we returned If) the ci'iuetevy, and found that the workmen had meanwhile reached llie roof of the vault, which wa.-: covered over at Liie top with an immense (quantity of reeds, witli ilne inattin,^- l)eneath, the whole bein_!4' supported hy stout lofj;s of wood. The sand had filtered throu<^h, completely Idling up the vault, and we were (jl)lijfed to clear this away entirely before reaching the bottom. As the vault was 10 feet deep this occupied u very long time, l)ut when it was completed at about 4 P.M. we discovered four bodies in a Ijad state of i)re.servation. Two of them had small oblong bits of gold in their mouths, which was very remarkable, .showing as it did that the Jncas ])i'actised a custom iilenti(.'al with that of the Komans of oM. (.)ut of this grave we also got two silver wristbands, sonu>. portions of a silver necklace, a (pumtily of weaving imple- ments, a large work-basket Idled with knitting-needles and variously coloured wools ami thread, some stone weights, and a few pols, mo.ii EASTEH ISLAND. 155 •y whale came close al()n,i,'.si(le tlic yacht. The weather was now intensely hot, and but for worryin,L,' at our slow pro-fress we should have enjoyed it .L-reatly. It was evident that we were too far south to catch the trade-winds, and that we had lost them altonether. Durin.u the ni^fht between the 2d and 3d of Aui^ust we passed the island of Sala y (lomez, and on takiui;' our observations at noon next day, we found that we had been oil' our course durinji; the whole of the last twenty-four hours. A succession of calms and s([ualls, accomiuuiit'd l)y a heavy swell, was the experience of the next few days; and it was not until daybreak on Thursday, August 0, just three weeks after leaving Callao, that we sighted Easter Island about 30 miles ahead of us. From this distance it had the appearance of two rounded islands, but as we drew closer we observed that the land .sloped down to the centre of the X.E. side, forming a large bay. There was an entire absence of trees, but most of the land seemed covered with grass, with the exception of large patches of red earth in places. Altogether the island pre- sented a by no means unpleasing aspect. We had not sighted a single sail during the whole of the twenty -one days since leaving Callao, AVe arrived and anchored in La I'erouse Bay at G.15 I'M., and our attention was attracted by a fire on shore, and by the figure of a man, who was evidently anxious thai we should see him. There were no signs of any houses. The evening was fine, with hardly any wind, but we made no attempt to land that night. Shortly after midnight the wind got up, and blew straight on shore ; we were therefore obliged to get our anchor up as rpiickly as possible and make sail. Xext morning it was blowing hard, with a nasty short sea, and when I came on deck 1 found that we were off the i' 'I I i i ! I t til I '1 '. . 1 ; 1 iL:.i , 15G A HKAllTY ItKCKPTION. iiortli tiiid (if tlic. isliuid. AVi; ti'iccl to <^{'t loiiud to Cook JJny, but owin.n to the wind slnl'tiiij,' at aliout tun o'clock wo found it inipossilde tay, wlun'o wo liovo to, waitiny for the weather to nioderatt; sulliciently for us to ellecl a hmdinn. V>y lialf-past one oVhick tlie sea lu'j^'an lo >^u dctwn, and we all went ofi'in the lifeboat, landing,' in Anakena Cove, a snuj,' little ]tlace with a nice sandy beach. No soonei' had the boat grounded than aljout a dozen natives rushed forward and commenced shaking our haiuls most iieartily. They were a line stalwart race of men, all cIoIIrmI in shirls and trousers, and most of them wearing either a scapula or a rosary. Amongst them was an American, who, as he informed me, had ridden over that nu)rnmg from Cook ]>ay to meet us, having seen our yacht oil' the north end of the island. From him we learned that he was the agent of j\[essrs Salmon i^ IJrander, the joint proprietors of the island ; that his name was Allen ; and that his masters had sai'ud for Tahiti a month ago on board the Chilian transport Angamos, which had called at the island, hoisting the Chilian Hag on shore, and leaving behind four Chilenos. Acconi))anied by Allen and most of the natives, we took a short walk through a district which aboundetl in traces of former inhabitants. The po[»ulation here nnist at one time have been exceedingly numerous. AVe did not see at Anakena any of the large images for which tjic island is noted, and sjiecinu'ns of which can be seen in the portico outside the Uritish jMuseum ; but there were many other objects of interest presented to our view, the most common of which were curious hen-houses, oblong in shape, about five feet in height, and of various lengths ; they were all built of rough unhewn stone, with a small opening for the hens to go in and out. The native tradition accounts for these buildings thus : "When an image was completed the sculptor invited a large number of ])eople to attend at its ^r TKACF.S OF FOIIMKU IMIAIUTANIS. 1 < erection iiinl iiiaui-uriitioii, tlic i»i()ceo(liii<,'s liuiny soleiiuiiseil Ity a t'easL ( I:' .several Imndrcd fowls. Tliere were also ,s(!V('ral banana-pits from iL' to ;10 feet in (Icptli, circular, and lined with inasdiiry, llu; oliject heiny to ]»rutect the trees from the wind. We saw several hanana- trees ,i;rowin,Lj inside them. Tlu! foundations of ant ient liouses Were very jtlentiful ; and we also saw a L^reat number of l)ury- in,t;-i)laces, around whieh human bontts lay .seattered about. A ureat number of obsidian spear-heads were also lying about on the j^round, the niiijoiity more or less broken, and of these I managed to secun; a tolerably good eolleetion. Very few vessels call at Faster Island, the inhaltitants in- forming me tliat up to the arrival of (he Anganios they had not seen a ship for upwards of two years. The island derives its name from the fact that it was dis- covered by Jloggewein on Easter Sunday 1721. It was visited by Cook in ITo.'], and in his ' ^^.)yages ' is to be found a highly interesting account of the place. Ifomau Catholic missionaries landed on the island in 18G4, lait after hturteeu years' residence they sold their i)roperty to Mr lirander and removed to the Gambier Archipelago, taking with them ;>00 natives; 500 had already migrated to Tahiti in 1.S74. Having arranged with Allen that he should have horses ready for us on the following morning to ride from the Cove to Cook l>ay, we returned to the yacht at half-past five, and during the whole of the night we were obliged to keep under way, tacking backwards and forwards outside the bay. A glorious day was Saturday, August 11. Having anchored again in La I'erou.se I5ay we went ashore soon after 8 A.M., and found Allen and some natives already waiting for us with the horses. We at once set oil for the crater of Otuiti, where most of the great images are to be found. Tliough Allen told us that it was not more than half an hour's ride, it took us over two hours and a half. On the way we came across a ijreat number of wild cattle, some of the bulls being fi ) m I I! 'l! *1 :■•! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■zM .5. 113 2 i; IIIIM 1.4 M 2.2 2.0 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i? (^.r & 6^ p STzsrrm wiJBjjm \ Ml' ; 111 I I 158 THE (RATER OF OTUITI. reinarkiibly fine Jiniinals, quitc3 as large and handsome as those in the Falldands. On reaching Otuiti we dismounted and scrambled to the top, whence we descended into the crater. This was over a mile in circumference and about 300 feet deep, with large pools of water lying at tlie bottom. Around the sides were numerous images, some erect and others lying prosti'ate. Their heights varied from 12 to 39 feet. They were sculp- tured out of a hard grey stone, the arms lying close to the sides, and the bodies terminating at the hips ; the faces had, as a general rule, a calm and rather disdainful expression, and the size of the ears was ridiculously large, being quite out of proportion to the other features. The workmanship of tliese images was oi course very rude, but considering the few and inefficient tools that the makers must have had they were really very wonderful, and it was perhaps still more marvellous that these ancient people, apparently williout any mechanical appliances, were able to move these huge stone masses considerable distances and to erect them into their proper positions. Fiiday remarks that several of them have crowns or hats on their heads. I saw none such, al- though lying on the ground in various parts were certain round shapeless masses of red stone slightly hollowed out to the shape of the skull, and apparently used for placing on the head. All the images wliich are found in diflerent parts of the island were manufactured at this crater, where alone the particular stone exists. The places in the quarries whence some of them were cut are still plainly discernible, whilst other images are to be seen there in an uncompleted state. On leaving this interesting spot we continued our ride towards A''aihou, passing on the way several stone platforms facing the sea, and varying in length, constructed of rough unhewn stones; images formerly stood upon them, but in almost every case they have fallen down. The road lay \'AIHOU — AXAKENA COVE. 159 ['icle rius in for tlie most part along the sea-shore. "We reached Vaihon at half-past one, and there we stopped to lunch. This was once a missionary station, and a small disused wooden chapel still existed there. The Chilenos who liad been left on the island were now occupying Mr Salmon's house which stood there. After a brief rest we resumed our journey to Mataveri, where we arrived at half-past four. Here was Mr lirander's residence, a large and comfortable house surrounded l)y a grass paddock, and presenting much the air of an English farmhouse. It was situated about a mile from Cook Bay ; therefore after remaining an hour we changed horses, and at half-past five we started on our return journey to Anakena Cove. Tlie road was very bad, the path being exceedingly steep in places, covered with loose stones. Before we had half completed our journey the night came on, and the darkness was intense. For some time there was no moon, and we were obliged to dismount and lead our horses, it being often an exceedingly hard matter to pick out our way. We did not reach the Cove till 11.30 p.m., and on our arrival we found, to our horror and dismay, that the yacht had left the harbour. AVe could just make out her side lights in the ofiing, and we lit a tire to attract her attention. We failed however to do so, and we were at length compelled to take shelter for the night in a cave. The ground was strewn with small stones, and the place was infested with thousands of Heas ; the night also was exceedingly chilly, and on the whole it was simply impossible to sleep. After passing a most wretched night, I ascended a small hill above the landing-place at dayln-eak to see if I could discern any signs of the yacht. On reaching the summit I saw her in tlie distance, evidently making for Cook Vn\y, where doubtless the sailing-master thought we had put up for the night. On my return to the cave I found the natives 1 •'" ;ti H i 160 PRIMITIVE COOKERY. preparing an oven to cook our breakfast. This, when ready, consisted of chicken, taro, and sweet-potatoes. Their method of killing and cooking a chicken was primitive and simple, no time being wasted in preliminaries. The bird was stunned by a knock on the head, then roughly plucked almost before it had ceased to breathe, then wrapped in a banana leaf and thrust into the oven. We had nothing to drink with our breakfast, there being no water on that side of the island. The wind was now getting up and a heavy surf rolling in on the beach, so that even if the yacht had returned it would evidently have been impossible for us to get off to her. I therefore decided to return to Mataveri, more especially as I found that all the natives were leaving, and that if we remained where we were we should be left entirely alone. We therefore started at half -past eleven accompanied by Allen and iiie natives, who conducted us by a shorter way than that we had traversed the night before. On reaching the top of the hill overlooking the west side of the island, we saw the yacht beating back in the direction of Anakena Cove. In passing through the village of Cook Bay we were greeted by a hearty welcome from the inhabitants, the whole population turning out, and every one rushing forward to shake hands and to say tlie only two words of English which they knew, " Good morning." It being Sunday, they were all dressed in their best clothes, and looked very neat and tidy. The women wore a long loose print garment reaching from their neck to their heels, whilst the men had jackets and trousers ; both sexes had their feet bare. We reached Mataveri at half - past three, and a room was at once prepared for us by the native servants in j\Ir Brander's house. We found the interior of the house in rather bad repair, and not so comfortable and inviting as we had been led to expect from the exterior view. The paddock in which it stood was planted with fig and mulberry trees. INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY, IGl Ir D -e s, and there was a small kitcheii-gardeu at the back. The cook provided an excellent meal for us, to which, after our indifferent breakfast and long ride, we did ample justice. "We retired early, hoping to rest, and it was certainly a great comfort to find one's self in a proper bed after the former night's exp 'rience. ]5ut alas ! sleep again seemed out of the question, for the mosquitoes and iieas abounded in myriads, the latter being if anything even more annoying than in the cave at Anakena Cove. We learned from the natives that the yacht had called at Cook Bay in the morning, and had sent a boat ashore to make incpiiries after us. The following day was thoroughly wet and miseraljle, the rain coming down in torrents almost witliout ceasing from morning to night. ])uring the day we learned that tlie yacht was lying off Vaihou, and we therefore sent a man with a Hag to try and attract her attention. I spent the day in finding out all the information wliich I could glean concern- ing the resources and the history of the island. Christianity was introduced here in 18G4, previous to which the natives were complete savages, and were said to have been cannibals. Those whom I saw were remarkably fine-looking, and some of the women were almost beautiful. They were of a light copper colour, the elder people being considerably ta'^*"";oed ; tlie custom, however, has died out, and they do not now tattoo their children. Only a small remnant of tlie former population now exists on the island, the total number of the inhabitants scarcely exceeding 100. There was no priest, but there were evident traces left of the missionaries' work. The natives attended chapel reg- ularly, and rigidly abstained from work on Sundays, and almost every one possessed a rosary or a crucifix, this being regarded with the greatest veneration. In the absence of a priest one of their number read tlie prayers every Sun- day morning in the chapel. Notwithstanding the reports X II i:i I i 1. 162 EESOURCES OF EASTER ISLAND. ! ll i wliicli have been circulated by other travellers who liave visited the island, there is no doubt whatever that the missionary work has been a great success there ; it is entirely owing to tlie teaching of the prieits tliat the people have become changed from utter savages into decent Christian men and women. AVith the exception of the Chilenos, there were only two white men on the island — namely, Allen and a Frenchman. The latter informed me that he had resided for two years in Xew Caledonia, and from this circumstance, as well as from his personal appearance, I had not the slightest doubt that he was an escaped convict. On the island were 18,000 head of cattle, of which all but about a thousand were wild ; in addition to these there were 20,000 sheep and about 70 horses, the whole belonging to Messrs Salmon and Brander. JMost of the natives possessed pigs, geese, turkeys, and poultry, the latter of which were extraordinarily numerous. Fruit and vegetables consisted mainly of bananas, sweet-potatoes, taro, sugar-cane, and figs. I was surprised to see that no grain is cultivated there ; the soil was very rich, and evidently well adapted for wheat and barley. Isolated as the island was, it would clearly have been a great advantage for the inhabitants to produce their own Hour and to be independent of outside supplies, which, as I was infornied, frequently failed them. There were no wild animals upon the island besides the cattle mentioned above, with the exception of cats and rats. The want of water was the great drawback to the island, the wells being all brackish, and the inhabitants depending almost entirely upon the rainfall for their supply. Another disadvantage was the want of a natural harbour. An artificial one could be constructed without much difficulty, but I donbt if the^'ft will ever be sufficient traffic to pay for its expense. The natives could give me no explanation about the erec- tion and object of the stone images. It is certain that they >f TERANO KAU. 163 themselves have never worshipped them, and whether they were regarded as sacred idols or otherwise by the people who originally constructed them is now quite unknown. The present inhabitants say that they originally came from the westward in two canoes, and that they drifted here by chance. Having landed, they believed tliat their ancestors made and erected the statues by orders of tlie king whom they set over themselves. The man whom I sent to Vaihou in the morning returned about half-past five, reporting that he had seen the yacht, but had failed to attract her attention. By next morning, Tuesday, August 14, the rain had quite passed away and tlie weather was beautifully fine. I started after brtjakfast with Allen to walk to Terano Kau, an ex- tinct volcano, the highest mountain on the island, the sum- mit being about 1338 feet above tlie sea. The crater was also by far the largest, being 2^- iniJes in circumference and 700 feet deep ; the bottom was filled with water. On the extreme south end of that hill, overlooking the sea, 1 found the ancient stone houses mentioned by Finlay. They were simply pits of an oblong shape, lined with stones, and roofed over with stones and turf. The entrance was so low and narrow that a person was obliged to crawl in on hands and knees. The interior was generally about five feet high. The majority of these curious dwelling-places were in per- fect preservation, but in a few places the roofs had fallen in. I discovered a great number of obsidian spear-lieads inside them, and also the remains of a bone-needle. Close by were some large stones rudely carved, the designs being mostly luiman figures ; but so far as I could see, there were no inscriptions, nor could I learn if any existed. In the afternoon I walked to the point, hoping to make out some sign of the yacht. I could see it nowhere, but on my return to the house I was delight id to find the ''hief officer and my personal servant, who had w-"Mied over from m ) I 1 1G4 HANOA-llOA. Anakeiia C'nvc. Tlioy iufonnud ine tliat tliey had liad an ex- ceedingly rougli time of it on board since 1 liad left on the Satnrday previous. They had waited at the anchorage as li)ng as they dared, and 1 ad sent up rockets to attract our attention before they had sailed out of the bay. Immediately upon hearing their report, I sent a note to the sailing- master ordering him to come round to Cook I'ay as soon as possi])le. . The village at this l)ay is called by the natives llanga-roa, and when I visited it on the following day the whole of the population crowded round us and followed us about. I pur- chased two carved W(ioden figures and a couple of wooden lizards, which were evidently very old, and which I thought might possibly be identical with those mentioned by Cook in his account of the island. I also obtained from the natives some handsome feather head-dresses, made from the tails of cocks, and which formed part of the native costume before the people became civilised. On my return I sighted the yacht a long way off, and immediately set about purchasing provisions. Altogether T procured one bullock, seven sheep, tliree pigs, and forty fowls. The bullocks cost 25 dollars each, the sheep and small pigs o dollars, and fowls 4 dollars a dozen. The dollars were Peruvian, and the value of them 2s. lOd. each. The yacht came quite close in ;it hve o'clock ; Ijut just as we thought slie was about to anchor she tacked, lowered her foresail, and stood out to sea again. At G.40 A.M. the next morning, Thursday, August IG, my servant awoke me with the satisfactory intelligence that the yacht was in sight oil' Cook IJay. I rose at once, and having breakfasted hastily, I walked down to the shore to see if the landing-place was jiracticable for a boat. There was a great deal of surf on, and Allen suggested that it would be better to embark at Hanga-piko, below Mataveri; we therefore returned to the house, intending to signal the FKATHKll HKAD-DRKSS, ETC. 1G5 11 tll'll , I • It f; i; y. 3 t3 t/l t/: ir. c: CJ t c " I-- , — o p i3 ,^ rt C^ ^ o ifi y= 1^ -^ ^ ^ u. ■^ :^ ^ -C 5 ^ o r* 'D '^ o V i ^ I !-li ( Id I:, I! if i 166 DEl'AUTUKK FHOM THK ISLAND. yacht to go round to that jioiut. Sliortly afterwards, however, word was brought to us tliat tlic lit'el)oat was coming in, and we tlierefore at once went down to Llie landing-phice, and succeeded in getting safely oft", accompanied by Allen and jMr Drander's cook. ^lost of the natives came down to the landing-place, and as we pushed oil' they cheered and waved their hats. Tiie Frenchman presented us with a laml), and the old cook.gave us a dozen fowls and a pig, several of the others also making us presents. Notwithstanding the disagreeable incident which I have described above, I was greatly interested and pleased with my visit to Easter Island, and I was particularly charmed with the simple unsophisticated character and manners of the natives. We finally weighed anchor at half-past ten, and at once bore away from the island. A nice fresh breeze sprang uj) in the afternoon, and we slipped along at a good pace. r 1G7 CHAPTER XVIir. LOVKLV WKATIIKU-LOS.S OP FOWLS AX.) U.O-FAX,S-FATOtI-HIVA IX THE JIAHQUESAS ISLANDS— A FHEXCII SETTLE.MEXT— LUXU- lUAXT VEGETATK.X— HISTORY OF THE ISLAXDS— IHVA-OA— THE CASCO— MR IfOliERT LOFIS STEVEXSOX— THE FREXCH GOVERX- MEXT AT HIVA-OA— AN- KXTRAVAGAXT J)LSH— XIKA-HIVA— A liEAUTIFUL ]3AY— A liE.MARIvARLE EX(!LI«H.MAX— DEARTH OF CURIOS— REXEWED TROUJiLE OX ROARU THE YACHT— AHI ATOLL RAXGIROA ATOLL 1' 'XT VEXUS TAIIITL August 17-Scptemlc)- 11, ISSS. We now steered almost due X.AV., our next destination being Fatou-liiva in the Marquesas Islands, 1900 miles from Eastet Island. For the first few days we were favoured with most delightful and propitious weather; the air was warm, and tlie sun shone day after day in a cloudless sky. The sea was perfectly smooth, and a fine fresh and fair wind sent us along at intervals .at a rate of from eight to ten knots an hour. Every now and then, however, the breeze died away, and for a few hours at a time we made but little progress. The only incident that occurred for the next five days was the loss of six fowls on the third day out, their heads being bitten off by the pigs, in whose pen we had placed them. On Wednesday, August 22, after having run nearly 850 miles in six days, the wind came dead aft, and we found ii ]. ri: 108 FATOU-llIVA. Pi oiu'sc'lvos ill till' midst of a foiisitlcniblo beam -sea whicli causi'il us to roll fcart'iilly. Tliis lasted tlirou^^liout the whole of that day and thnm^Ii the <^reat('i' jiart of the fol- lowing iiij^ht. lUit early the next morning the wind once more came abeam, and favoured by ."here was a school and a mission; but from what I could lerrn, missionary work in this island had not met with the success which it has had in Easter Island. I was informed that frecpiently wlien the priest came over he was unable to get a single person to attend the service. As a matter of fact, tlie natives are little cb. 'liged from their condition when the French first landed. 80 far as outward acts of violence are concerned, they arC; r.f course, prevented from making war upon one another, and cannibalism has virtually disappeared, though I hoard that a man had been eaten only two years ago at Hiva-oa. The French appear to rule with a firm hand, keeping the people usefully employed, and constructing good roads and other public works, l)y means of native labour. Tattooing is no longer permitted, under penalty of fine and imprison- ment, but all the adult natives whom we saw were beauti- fully and elaborately tattooed, chielly on their legs, faces, and arms ; the patterns were really most artistic, and the execution of the design was remarkably goc... Few of the men wore anything but a loin-cloth ; the women, however, were dressed in a loose cotton garment closely resembling L HIVA-OA — THE CASCO. 171 ig le those of Easter Island, and most of them I noticed had flowers in their hair. The natives of the Marquesas are excellent boat-builders ; in addition to their canoes they have some capUal wl:ale- boats. The canoes are dug out of the trunk of a palm- tree, and fitted with a larne ^;ap«==^ log out-rigger on one side, j'^ The paddles are neatly made and of peculiar shape, with a short and very broad blade. Fishing is also abundantly practised, and the natives are very expert in the art. They use a curious bait made of mother-of-pearl tipped with hog's bristles — the glitter of this in the water attracting the fish mucli in the same manner as the spoon wliich is used in England. Most of the inhabitants of the Marquesas are splended swimmers and divers. Next morning we got under way at 7.15, taking with us on board a Frenchman to whom I was giving a passage to Tahiti. "We were favoured with a iine strong breeze, and shortl} after noon we arrived and anchored in Taa-hou-kou harbour. Traitors' E.,y. in the island of Hiva-oa. The port is safe and well sheltered, though rather narrow and confined. Here to our surprise we found an American schooner yacht of about 110 tons. After lunching I went off" to her, and dis- covered that she was the Casec , belonging to San Francisco, and chartered by j\lr Eobert Louis Stevenson, the celebrated novelist, who, accompanied by his mother, wife, and step-son, had come direct from San Francisco to Xuka-hiva, and had lattoocd leg — Marquesas. 1 I i mm m , i ,j 1 r i' f ! ■ t f I! 1 » 172 MR ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. already spent some time in the Mai'quesas. After remain- ing a wliile on board, I returned to the Nyanza, and soon afterwards went on shore. The landing was bad, and we were compelled to beach the boat, in doing which we got a good wetting. There was only one house in the place, that belonging to Mr K., who was formerly in tlie 8th Hussars, but who, after selling out and trying to settle in New Zealand, finally took up his quarters here a few years ago. He had a very good house, to which he invited us; but after staying there a short time, we took a walk with him througli the valley, which was one mass of cocoa-nut palms. The sceneiy, however, was not nearly so pretty as at Fatou-hiva. and there was nothing like the same quantity of fruit. The natives appeared to be more civilised, but were by no means so interesting as tliose of the former place. Curicsities, I was informed, were exceedingly scarce, but ]\Ir Iv. kindly gave me a pair of ear-ornaments neatly carved in bone. About two miles inland was another valley, where was the principal settlement and the residence of the officials. I did not visit it until the next day, but returned on board before six, as I was expecting the Stevensons to spend the evening with us. AVe had a most delightful chat, and they had evidently enjoyed themselves very much in the ]\Iarquesas, and were most enthusiastic about the islands and their inhabitants. The next morning I visited the Casco, which Mr Steven- son kindly offered for my inspection. I found her a vessel of the regular American type, great beam and little depth, provided with a cock-pit and a coach roof extending her whole lengtli, in order to give greater head-room below. Her acconnuodation was very limited, and she appeared to me more adapted for sailing about San Francisco liay than for a cruise across the ocean. At 4 I'.M. we went ashore, and rode over to the settlement on some horses which j\Ir K. had kindly provided for us. [r Ic AN EXTRAVAGANT DISH. 173 The road was very prood, and we were not long in tiaversing the mile and a half to the so-called Govevnniont House. The French Government is here represented by a couple of gendarmes, one of whom holds the rank of a mareelial de hxjis. The native houses were smaller than those of Fatou- hiva, but there was a remarkably well-built stone chapel served by a Frencli priest, and there were also some Catholic Sisters, one of wlioin was an Irish girl. In the evening Mr K. dined with us on board the yacht, and from liiin I obtained a great deal of information about tlie country. Tlie chief product of the island was cotton, than which there is no finer grown in the world. It com- mands in the English market double the price of American cotton ; great attention, liowever, has to be paid to its cultiva- tion, and as the natives are naturally idle and disinclined to work, much difliculty and trouble is experienced thereby. The other export of the island is copra, or dried cocoa-nut, which is much used in the manufacture of fancy soaps. The native population of Hiva-oa numbers altogether about 1200 souls. The next day was Sunday, and a very hot day it was. At half-past twelve we went ashore to lunch with Mr K. Amongst other things we had fresh-water prawns, which both in appear- ance and taste could scarcely be distinguished from the salt- water prawns witli wliich we are familiar in England. We also had a salad made from the young green top-shoots of the cocoa-nut palm. This was a most excellent but extrava- grnt dish, as it is necessary to cut the whole tree down in order to make one salad. AVhilst ashore I purchased a head ornament made of an enormous number of porpoise-teeth strung together. I was very pleased at my success in securing this curio, as these head-ornaments are highly valued and very dillicult to be obtained. The next morning, having signalled " Adieu " to the Casco, i I-:-' if: ■ li 17i NUKA-HIVA. ii i; we got under way at 7.30, being towed out of the harbour by a whale-boat manned by a native crew which ^Ir K. thought- fully sent off to our assistance, there not being sufficient wind to waft us out of the port. At ten o'clock, however, a strong breeze came up, which sent us along at a good speed through the Iiordelaise Channel. Shortly before clearing this we were struck by a sharp squall, wliich nearly carried the square sail away before we could get it in. The breeze lasted well throughout the day, and though there was some sea on we were s\ve])t along pleasantly. After sighting Adams and Washington Islands, we arrived at 6 P.M. within ten miles of Xuka-hiva. It was too dark for us to attempt to enter the harl)our that night; we therefore put the ship about, and hove to awaiting the daylight. As so'iu as it was light we stood in for the island, and before 7.30 a.m. we were safely at anchor in Tai-o-hae harbour. Controller Bay. At the entrance to the port are two remarkable rocks called the Sentinels, and on passing these we were greatly ballled by the squally and uncertain action of the wind. This was succeeded by a calm, in consequence of which we had to be towed to our anchorage by the lifeboat. The bay is noble and picturesque, with lofty mountains encircling it on all sides so as to shelter it perfectly from the wind, and with houses scattered along the shore embosomed in palm- trees and looking very pretty. There is sufficient depth of water, and the bay is wide enough to accommodate a whole Heet. At the time of our arrival there wero two small schooners lying at anchor, one belonging to the Government and the other a trader. The harbour-master boarded us and gave us pratique. After breakfast I went on shore, but the place seemed very tame and civilised after Fatou-hiva. There were two stores kept l)y Europeans, several drinking-shops, and a bil- liard-room ciignified by the title of the Hotel International. A REMARKABLE ENGLISHMAN. 175 The Eesident of the Marquesas group resides here ; he is, however, under the orders of the governor of Tahiti. A doctor, a commissary, the harbour - master, and. a few (icndarmcs are the other representatives of the French element ; but tliere are no longer any troops on the island. The native population of Xuka-hiva is aljout 900 in number ; in addition to these there were about 40 Europeans and Americans, besides a good number of half-castes. One old man whom I met was an Englishman who had resided on the island for forty-two years. His face was tattooed just like a native's, and I have no doubt that if he could have been induced to tell me his history I might have an interesting and curious story to relate. The natives were fully dressed as Europeans in coats, trousers, and shirts, and were much more civilised in appearance than those of Fatou-hiva or Hiva-oa. There is regular communication between Xuka-hiva and San Francisco by means of a line of sailing-ships, which call there once a-month on their way to and from Tahiti car- rying the mails, for which they receive a subsidy from Gov- ernment. Other vessels of various kinds also frequently call at this port. There is no compulsory pilotage, nor does the harbour light exist which is shown so conspicuously on Tmray's chart. I tried hard to get some curios, but they were extremely scarce and dear, and I only managed to secure a couple of old men's yellow beards, which are considered of great value. They were formerly worn in the head - dress as a kind of plume, the ends being neatly whipped with sennit. In the evening we went out in the dingy to haul the sehie, but only caught about a dozen small fish. Provisions in this settlement were very dear; sheep cost as much as twenty-five francs apiece, wliile ducks and fowls were five and three francs a-head respectively. Goats and fowls abound in the nighbourhood in a wild state, but a ' ' ! i:! !■ H ll 17G RENEWED TROUBLE ON BOARD. licence is required to shoot them, and indeed to carry arms at all. Next morning, Wednesday, September 5, we got nnder way at ten o'clock, but the wind was against us, and we were not clear of tlie harbour till lialf-past eleven. Once outside, however, we had a fair brisk breeze, and went along a good eight knots an hour. This morning a little trouble occurred on board, one of the hands grumbling at orders and being insolent to the chief ofiicer. I therefore had the whole crew aft, and told them that if there was any moie grumbling or growling I would dismiss them at the next port we put into, for I was de- termined not to stand any nonsense on their part. "We now made for Tahiti, which lay about 760 miles S.W. of the ^Marquesas. The weather was still intensely hot, and the wind gentle and light. However, we ran on an average 130 miles a-day until Saturday, September 8, when at 3 p.m. we sighted Ahi atoll, past which we ran at a distance of about six miles off. This island presented a most curious appear- ance, for the land is nowhere more than about S'x feet above the sea, and from the deck the palm-trees seemed to be growing out of tlie water. The next day we sighted IJangiroa atoll at 10 a.m., and at a quarter-past twelve we were within a mile of the island. We then hove to and lowered the lifeboat, but on getting close to the beacli we found a considerable surf running and breaking over coral heads, and we therefore did not deem it prudent to attempt to land. Eangiroa atoll is the largest island in the Low Archipelago, nearly GO miles in length and densely wooded with cocoa-nut palms. There were two stations on it, one of which belonged to Mr Brander of Easter Island. liefore l.vo o'clock we had continued our course, and soon afterwards sighted Tikahau atoll. The wind dropped in the evening, and next day it was TAHITI. 177 nearly a dead calm until 4 r..r. A breeze then sprano- up but unfortunately it was ahead of us " ^ By Tuesday, September 11, at noon, we had run only 95 mdes ju the last twenty-four hours. In the afternoon we ighted the mountains of Tahiti, and shortly afterwards dis- erned he island of Morea. At r... we made the light on Pon.t Venus, and at ten o'clock we hove to and waited tor daybreak to enter Papeete harbour. * < V iill 1 1 A* 1/ ! u }U m ; t ? b P ii > 178 CHAPTER XIX. PAPEETE A DISAPPOIN'TIXG TOWN', lUTT A HPLEN'niD HARBOUR THE MOUNTAINS OF JIOIiEA A GAY AND AMUSING SPECTACLE 1 DISMISS MY SERVANT A MODEST REQUEST A WONDER- FUL CORAL-REEF THE ARCHIPELAGO OK TAHITI, OR SOCIETY ISLANDS 1 ENGAGE A FRENCH STEWARD EXCURSION THROUGH THE ISLAND — HITIAA A NATIVE l.I-VEK MATAIEA — A PARA- DISE OF INDOLENCE THE PLANTATION OF ATIJLWAO MORE TROUBLE ON BOARD DISCHARGE OF THE SAILING-MASTER AND COOK RE-ENGAGEMENT OF THE FORME|{, September 12-lS, ISSS. The next morning the breeze had dropped again, and tliere was scarcely any wind. Passing l*oint Vonns, we signalled for a pilot, who came off to ns about nine o'clock ; and his services were very necessary, for the entrance into I'apeete luu'bour is excessively narrow and intricate, with dangerous reefs on either side. Once inside, however, the port is like a fresh-water lake. AVe landed almost immediately after letting go the anchor, and went to the Hotel de France for lunch. This is generally considered the better of the only two hotels in Papeete ; and though its appearance was decidedly unpretentious, tlie house seemed clean and the cooking was good. The landlady was a Frenchwoman. As we required a new main-gai'i", I went to Messrs Crawfords' store, the largest one in the place, and returned to tlie yacht accompanied by a shipwright to take the measure for the necessary repairs. 1 is like after ;e for le only ^e was lid the in. As Kv foils' yacht tor the A DISAPPOINTING TOWN. 179 I then landed again, and was conducted hy Mr 1)., the manager of ^lessrs Crawford, througli the town. I was greatly disappointed with the place, the huildings of which were poor and mean and the streets without pavements, tliougli tliey have high-sounding names and are planted on each side with trees, like houlevards. There were no shops in the ordinary sense of the word, but large general warel ouses or stores. The sacred buildings consisted of a moderate- sized Catholic church called the Cathedral, though very plain and unadorned, and a Wesleyan chapel, which looked un- commonly like a barn. The palace of the king was a com- fortable-looking villa, Ijut without any appearance of royalty about it. Lady ]>rassey, in the 'Voyage of the Sunbeam,' mentions the delightful walk along the sea-shore, with the lovely turf sloping down to the water's edge. There was certainly a good sea-road, but when I was there the little grass that there appeared to be on the spot was all burnt up and withered. The splendid harbour is completely protected by the reef which encircles the island, and however stormy the weather may be outside, within it tlie water is always smooth. The view from the centre of the bay is excessively lovely, the mountains behind Papeete being covered with verdure and the town almost hidden amongst the palm-trees. The distant feature in the picturesque view is the island of Morea, 12 miles away, the mountains of which are cut into sliarp peaks and ]nnnacles wliich stand out boldly against the sky. After an excellent dinner at the Hotel de France, I was joined by ]\Ir D. We went into the phice to hear the band play. A very gay and amusing spectacle presented itself to my eyes, for the natives, who were congregated in large numbers, danced round the bandstand like little chil- dren, evidently enjoying themselves to their hearts' content. ]\Iost of them were decorated with wreaths of flowers round their heads, which were sold by a number of women grouped together in one corner of the square. The music was pretty, t li' m i ■ J ■ m 'I! ii i 1 ii 'f I •■ li b'1 ;>• . f I .III |i 180 A MODEST IIEQUFST. and tlic l)an(I much better tliaii one niij^lit have expected to lind hi Taliiti. The next dav I liad some trouble with mv servant, in consequence of wliich I was obH^'ed to dischart-e him. ^ly morning was occupied in endeavours to obtain another steward in his place, and in makinj^f the arrangements for a three days' expedition round the island. On my return to the yacht I found a missionary on board, who made the modest request that I would take him to Titcairn Island. He belonged to an American sect, the name of which I cannot remember, but their main principles appeared to be that Sunday should be kept on Saturday. The missionary tried his utmost to palm oii' a number of books upon me for sale, saying that he was excessively anxious that T should thorough.ly \\v. lerstand the principles which he professed. All his blandishments, however, were unfortunately thrown away upon me, and I was stern-hearted enough to refuse his request for a passage. "When I had managed to get rid of my importunate visitor, we went in the dingy to visit the reef. This was really a wonderful sight, for the water was only about three feet deep, and the bottom was one mass of coral of all shapes and sizes. Some of the branches were particularly beautiful ; moreover, large numbers of gorgeously coloured fish were swimming about amongst the coral-reefs, some of a most brilliant blue and others striped with black and white bars. In the evening Mr D. dined with us on the yacht, and gave us a good deal of information about the Archipelago of Tahiti. It appears that the group is divided into two portions respectively, the Leeward and AVindward Islands. The whole group numbers nine islands in all, and of these Tahiti is by far the largest and most important, and is consequently the seat of Government. It is 35 miles long, and has an area of 600 square miles. It is very mountainous, the highest peak, Mount Orohena, being 7-340 feet above the sea, whilst an-- n'tions i whole is by f^iy the U'ea of peak, 1st an- HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS. 181 otlier, ^rount Aroai, is only very sliglitly lower. The island is divided into eij^liteen districts, each of which is juvsided over hv a municipal council with a native chief as president. Acc(n'din<^- to the census of 1885, tlie population of llie island of Tahiti was 9oG2, a considerable number of whom were Chinese. The ])opulation of I'apcete itself was about 5000. The ])riiicii)al exports of Taliiti are copra, pearl-shell, cotton, vanilla, and suyar. The climate is damp and the rainfall great, violent hurricanes being occasionally experienced. The mean tem})erature for the year is 77\ the maximum being 84 iind the minimum G9' ; so that the weather may be called decidedly temperate. The first recoid that exists of the group being visited was of I'edro Fernandez de Quiros in February 1G07, but they were not taken possession of until dune 1707, when Wallace in the Dolphin proclaimed them part of the liritish possessions in the name of George III. The next year iJougainville visited them, and claimed them for France under the title ol La Xouvelle Cythcre ; but the real his- tory of the group dates from the tinie of Cook, who visited it four times Latween the years 1700 aiul 1777. From him they received the name of " Society Islands " in honour of the IJoyal Society, and by this title they have been known ever since. Bligh, in command of the Bounty, spent five months there in 1778, and Tahiti was revisited by the crew after the memorable mutiny. The first missionaries were a couple of Spanish priests, who landed on the islands in 1774, In 1797 some Protestant missionaries also landed liere, but owing to the difficulties which they encountered they left, and no permanent Protestant mission was estab- lished till 1812. By the year 1836 these missionaries had obtained so great a hold over the natives that when a few French Catholic priests landed there they were expelled b}' Queen Pomare, acting under orders from the Protestant missionaries, who were aided aiid abetted bv the British ■, I pMi* I A tv' ' 182 FRKNC 1 1 A N N KX A'lK )X. Consul, a iiiiui nt llio iiaiiic ot' I'ritcliaril. In consequenco of tliis |ii(K'('(.'(liii,<:, (lillicultics arose between the Tuliitiaii OoverniiicuL and Kianec, wliicli ii'sulted in the mission ot' Achniral (hi retil-Thonars to the islands in 18138, for the purpose (if iK'notiatinn' a treaty providinj^' for the right of all Frenchmen, whatever nuglit lie their profession, to settle in the islands. The ollicial account as given by the French describes the negotiations thus: "King ronuire IV. and his principal ministers re(|Uested France to take the island under her protection, and this was provisionally agreed to by the Admiral on Sijptember !), 1842, the protectorate being ratilied liy Louis Philippe on March >, 184.")." Tiie island from that date remained theoreticall} ndependent, but prac- tically under French control, till dune 29, 1880, when King Pomare V. resigned his entire lights over his possessions in consideration of on aniple annuity; and on i»Oth December following, the annexation was ratilieil by the Chambers, Tahiti thus becoming a French colony. This has without doub'v. been to the advantage of the group, for Tahiti is governed well and .justly, and the natives are treated kindly. They are, however, exceedingly lazy, and great difficulty is experienced in obtaining labour for the due cultivation of the land. It is also by no means easy for any Frenchman to purchase property there, for the natives arc extremely averse to selling real estate. The lU'itish Consul at I'apeete, Captain T., was formerly in the 14th Hussars. I found him a very pleasant and affable companion. His wife and children had returned to England, and he was hoping to follow them shortly. From his account, the country was anything but agreeable to live in, and with the exception of the band, which played twice a-week, there were absolutely no anmsements from one year's end to the other. There were, however, two clubs ; one exclusively for the use of French military and naval officers, the second chietly supported by Americans and Europeans. Two coni- l ^1 i'l KXCUUSION THKULCill TIIK ISLAND. 1H3 ptinios of iiifimtevie de niiirinc and a buttery (»f iirtilliTv wcri' ([iiarteri'd at I'apeoto. The tliird day after my arrival at I'apet'tt.! I ('nifn«^fed a Fruiicli steward named .Fulian llapardziL;;, He was a native of lieiinion, and was recommended by ^lessrs Crawford. On Snnday, September 10, we started at 7.15 a.m. for (tur drive throu_nIi tlic island. The carriaj^o was a (.'nmfortable conveyance, roofed over but open at the sides, cajjablc of hold- injif three besides the driver, and drawn by a pair of sturdy little horses; our coachman was a native. Fnr the tirst eight miles after leaving I'apeele the load was fairly gof)d, l)ut afterwards it became rougli and narrow. During tlie whole distance it ran parallel Id the sea and close by ihe shore, in some places cut out of the side of the cliff, with a deep precipice below. As a rule I am by no means nervous when driven, but I confess to a feeling of relief and satis- faction when we had safely passed those portions of the road ; for if the horses had chanced to shy, iliere would have been nothing to prevent our being hurled down on to the rocks below. The scenery was sulilime and entrancing. Sometimes we were passing through a dense tropical forest composed of palm, bread-fruit, banana, Pandanus, and many other trees which were quite unfamiliar to me, whilst at other times our road skirted lovely calm bays with sandy beaches, glimpses of pretty native villages bowered amongst trees being presented to our view. At nine o'clock we halt- ed for breakfast, of which we partook untler the shade of a huge tree. We reached Ilitiaa, our first day's destination, at 2 p.m. the country during the latter part of our journey having been well watered by numerous streams, which in the rainy season become dangerous torrents. There were no bridges throughout the whole route, in conse(juence of which at those seasons of the year Ilitiaa is completely cut off from any connection with I'apeete. The former is a large native li i; i|;,*i' ! i i y i ■ ' iiIJUJ- 184 A NATIVE-BUILT HOUSE. village with a l*rotestaiit church, from which the congregation was streaming out as we drove past. The won i were attired in bright cotton dresses, and looked neat and clean. We were accommodated with a night's lodging in a native- built house, the sides of which were constructed of canes, through which light and air penetrated. The roof was I'it'ii.' in Tahiti. thatched with I'andanus lca^•cs, and mats made of sugar-cane covered the Hoor. The whole house consisted merely of one large room, at each end of which, on a raised dais, were three beds. Unfortunately the rain commenced to fall immediately after our arrival, and it continued to pour without interrup- tion during the rest of the day. We braved the elements, however, .,nd took u short stroll iu the afternoon. There STONE PESTLES, ETC. 185 ^un t B' ■!. a. O a; O ^ o - e 2 « s ?^ "S "o -s o W C) S *-*-!-«_, 0) 9 C O a, i~ V ^ v: <^ ?^ < a -J tM I 2 a i !? i'i 1 ' I I ll ' 18G A NATIVE LKVEE. was not much to see, tlie principal objects of interest being a number of canoes which were drawn up on the beach. These were simihar to those which we had already seen both iu the j\Iarquesas and at Papeete — tliat is to say, hollowed out of the trunk of tlie cocoa-nut palm, and fitted with a large log outrigger. Curiosities were scarce, but I managed to secure three stone axes, a stone pestle for crushing bread-fruit, and tlie wooden stand which is used with it. Our evening meal was cooked in native fashion in an oven in the ground, and it was really very good. After dinner we held quite a Icvdc of natives, who came in crowds asking a great many (questions about the royal family of Great Ihitain, and especially about the Duke of Edinburgh, who, they remombtred, visited Tahiti some years before in the Galatea. The next morning was fine, iind we started at 8 a.m., our way lying over an exceedingly bad road, so o^■ergrown by vegetation as to be hardly discernible. Several times we were obliged to leave it altogether, and drive along the beacli and e^'er through the sea. At half-past ten we stopped to rest tbe horses and to partake of breakfast; but we were so tormented by sand-tlies and mosquitoes that we lost no time in resuming our journey. At half-past twelve we reached Taravao, where was a snudl fortified barrack, at present out of use. Trom tliis point the road improved con- siderably, being planted for a long distance on each side with lemon-trees, the first which I had seen on the island. In a bay close to Taravao the French despatch-vessel Yire was lying, being stationed there for the purpose of making a survey with a view to the construction of a dock winch the authorities had in \iew. The road now crossed several wide though shallow arms of the sea, and was laid on a substantial stone causeway. We passed several native villages and crossed a great number of small rivers, most of which were bridged over. A PARADISE OF INDOLENCE. 187 Ire Shortly before two o'clock we arrived at Mataiea, where we intended to spend the night. This was a much smaller place than Hitiaa, but the houses appeared far superior, the one in which we lodged being provided with several com- fortable rooms. Moreover, we got a much better dinner there than we had had the niglit before. The f/mdarme in charge of the station came to visit us in the afternoon, and remained a long time in interesting conversation. He had evidently a very poor opinion of tlie natives, who, according to his account, were invariably lazy and good for nothing. It can scarcely, however, be considered a matter of surprise that the natives in these islands are disinclined to work, for money is no object to theiu, and they can live upon almost nothing. The houses which they construct are simple edifices, eminently adapted to the climate and exactly suited to their requirements ; the canes with which they are built are cut in the bush, and the Pandanus leaves with which the roofs are thatched are procured witliout labour or ditficulty. The cocoa-nut palm supplies them with f(X)d and drink, and if they clioose they can even manufacture an intoxicating liquor from it. Fish are to be caught in the sea in marvellous abundance, the bread-fruit tree gives them bread, and from their bark they make the cloth which is used for their apparel. What more can they want ? It seems, when we think about it, only natural that, lavishly supplied as they are by nature with everything that they require, and being laid under no necessity for exertion on their part, they should be disinclined for manual labour. Indeed, it appears to me extremely probable that the most energetic and laborious Europeans, who had hitherto been obliged to work hard for their living, would, if placed in similar circumstances, soon become as indolent and averse to labour as the natives themselves. IJain fell hard all niglit, and it had not ceased when we started on our way at 7.30 next morning. The character of w 'ill I 188 MORE TROUBLE ON BOARD. i?i :i i .f'tl tlie country through which we now passed was entirely different from that which we had liitherto traversed, and the road was really excellent. There was no more forest, but we passed through several cotton and sugar plantations, and over grassy meadows dotted about with palm-trees. The principal plantation whicli we saw was that of Atimtivao, formerly managed by the late Mr Stewart. This was the celebrated l)lantation which excited so much attention in the American and Australian papers a few years ago. With Mr S.'s death the care and prosperity disappeared, and at the time of my visit the place was rapidly going to ruin. At half-past nine, when we stopped to change horses, the rain ceased and the sun came out. The last part of our drive was exceedingly enjoyable, and we reached I'apeete just after noon. Our little excursion had been thoroughly delightful, but three days was quite enougli to spend over it. We had been told tliat we ought to allow four days, but with good changes of horses it could, as a matter of fact, be accomplished with ease and enjoyment in two. Immediately on our arrival at I'apeete, we went oft' to the yacht, where, to my great annoyance, I was met by the German cook with a couple of black eyes, who informed me that he had been knocked down l.)y the chief ofticer. I sent for the sailing-master, but he was not on board. In about twenty minutes he came oft' very much the worse for drink, and when I spoke to him about the cook, he was exceedingly insolent and could scarcely speak coherently. I therefore told him tliat I should take liim before the Consul in the morning and discliarge hhn. The conduct of the men in general upon the occasion was anything but satisfactory ; for though none of them could fail to see the state in which the sailing-master was, I could not induce one of them to testify that he was drunk. The sailmaker was the only one who would go the length of saying that he thought that perhaps he might have had a glass. I really do not believe that a . a DISCHARGE OF SAILING-MASTER AND COOK. 189 Higlilander considers ii inau drunk until lie has lost all power of locomotion and speech. I went ashore and told MrD. about the unpleasant occurrence, and he replied that he was not at all surprised, for he knew that the- sailing- master had been on shore drinking hard f(jr the last three days. He promised to find me a substitute if possible, but he was very doubtful about being successful. On my return to the yacht I sent for the chief officer and the cook, and did my best to settle the matter. The cook, however, refused to listen to any explanations, and insisted upon having the whole affair out before the Consul. Accordingly, next morning at half-past nine I went to the Consulate, having previously ordered the sailing - master, chief officer, and cook to meet me there. The case of the former was settled first, proceedings being very short and summary. I })roved without difficulty, to the satisfaction of the Consul, that the man had been both drunk and ii.solent, and that in consequence of the terms of our agreement I was entitled to discharge him summarily. To this the Consul immediately gave his sanction, lait the man refused either to sign off" or to take his money. I therefore deposited the money with Captain T., the Consul, who endorsed the articles. As snni: as this matter was settled, we sent for the cook to hear his version of the fray in which he had been mixed up. He refused, however, to enter into the subject, merely saying that he wished for his discharge, which accordingly I agreed to let him have ; he therefore received his pay and signed off. The rest of the day was spent in making inquiries for a new sailing - master and cook; but after inter\-iewing several skippers, I could find no one that would suit me. Having dined with Captain T. in the evening, I returned on board at nine o'clock. To my surprise I found my late sailing-master in his cabin. T told him that he was no m illlH u '"fifl m W' 1 i ■ 1 r '' 1 i Vl fL* ( f p^ 190 RE ENGAGEMENT OF SAILING-MASTER. M '. 'f > 'i ', i longer my servant, tliut he had nothing to do with the yacht, and that ho must go ashore immediately. But having now become sober and penitent, and alive to the conscious- ness of the fool that he had made of himself, he apologised humbly and sincerely for what he had done, begging me earnestly to overlook the matter, and saying that he had uowliere to lay his head, and that it was hard to be turned adrift witli only £11 in his possession, and with no means to get back to England. As he was evidently heartily ashamed of himself, and sorry for his conduct, I consented to forgive him upon his promising me that nothing of the sort should ever occur again. "We shook hands, and I wished him good-night. I discovered afterwards that the man was after all not so much himself to blame, as he had been led astray by my late servant whom I had discliarged a few days before. I must confess, also, that I was relieved at being able to arrange the matter thus ; for if he had left, my only course would have been to have sailed direct for Xew Zealand, as I could not have procured another sailing-master nearer, and this would liave upset all my plans. f^rngm CHAPTER XX. MAIL COMMUXICATION BETWEEX TAHITI AND SAN FRANCISCO— VEXATIONS AND DELAYS— THE CATHOLIC BISHOP OP TAHITI- DEATH OP THE king's BliOTHER— father COLLETTE— F VUE- WELL TO TAHITI-A GOOD DAv's HUN— THE SAMOAN GROUP OP ISLANDS— PAGOPAGO— FATHER FORESTIER— A WAR-CANOE— THE FRENCH CATHOLIC MISSION— AN INTERESTING VISIT— NATIVE FISHIXG—CURIO-HUNTING— APIA— FATHER REME— THE CIVIL AVAR IN SAMOA— II.M.s. CALLIOPE- A TROPICAL RAIN— HIGH- HANDED ACTION («P GERMANS IN SAMOA— DEPAUTURE FROAI APIA. September 10-Odohcr 0, ISSS. Thk City of rapeete sailed from the island on September 19. She was one of the three vessels tliat kept up regular communication between Tahiti, the Marquesas, and ° San Francisco. Tliey are sailing barques of about 370 tons, per- forming the voyage from Papeete to San Francisco in from tliirty to forty days, and receiving from the French Govern- ment an annual subsidy of 75,000 francs for carrying the mails. The following day we spent in rhoroughly going over the stores and wine, and I was exceedingly annoyed to find tliat though I had started from England with sufficient stock and wine to last for three years, there was apparently only enough left to take us to San Francisco. Tliere was now no doubt that my late servant had thoroughly taken advantage of the great trust I had reposed in him, and that 1. m>snmm 192 THE CATHOLIC BISHOP OF TAHITI. f! \ t Ml he had been helping himself extensively to my wine through- out the Nvhole voyage. I had a great deal of difficulty about a new cook, and was much tempted to take back tlie one who liad just signed off. He was AC-y anxious for me to do so, but I felt that after what had occurred it would be risky for me to engage him again; and I then .ae told him that T had given him several chances of staying, which he had refused, and it was then too late to change his mind. This, and the necessity for replacing the wasted stores on board, occupied my attention for several days, and delayed my departure from Tahiti. ]\Ieanwhile, one afternoon I called on the Catholic IMshop, whom I found a pleasant, aristocratic-looking man, forty- two years of age. He had only been in Tahiti for two years, and the old Bishop whom he succeeded was still alive in retirement. Ueing a bishop hi jiaHibus iajiddinm, he was not recognised by the Ciovernmcnt, and received no Government salary. His name and title were ]Monseigneur Josepli Yerdiev, liishop of Megare and Yicar Apostolic of Tahiti. His house was pretty, and conveniently situated in the grounds cf the Catholic mission. Tlie priest in charge of the cathedral, Father Collette, upon whom I also called, was under Government recognition, and received a salary of ^?50 a-month, which was erpiivalent to about f 100 a-year. The brother of the king died and was buried whilst we were at Papeete, — the funeral being performed with royal honours, and a salute being fired from a battery. The gunboat Scorpion arrived in the harbour on the morning of Saturday, tjeptember 22, and the Vire despatch- vessel also came in the same afternoon. The former was a pretty-looking little vessel of 475 tons, and powerfully armed for her size, carrying two 5i-inch and two 4-inch guns. She was under orders to return to France. I had made all arrangements for sailing on the morrow, wind and weather l)ermitting, and having been unable to find a cook, I had FAREWELL TO TAHITL 193 made up my mind to start witliout one. Wlien all prepara- tions had been made, I was informed tlmt there was a local regulation requiring all vessels, including men-of-war, to give twenty-four liours' notice to the postal authorities before they left, in order that, if necessary, tliey might send a mail by them. We were therefore unable to leave before JMonday, the 24th, and I spent the intervening Sunday in attending Mass in the morning at the cathedral, and entertaining Father Collette on board the yacht tlirougli tlie whole of the after- noon. He was a cliarming old gentleman, with the courteous manners of the ancicn rdgimc. He had been thirty-four years on the island, and he told me that he never expected nor desired to leave it again, and tliat his tomb had already been prepared for him. He was deliglited with the yaclit, and took an intelligent interest in seeing over it. The morning of the 24th proved absolutely calm, and though the wind got up in the afternoon, it blew straight in, so that, after all, we were unable to leave that day. In settling up accounts the harbour-master was good enough to waive all claim to dues, and charge us only the same rate of pilotage as a foreign gunboat. "We dined with Mr D. at the Hotel de France, and he came on board after- wards to bid us farewell. On parting, he kindly presented me with a dozen pairs of pearl shells, besides other varieties, and also a sample of vanilla. The pilot came off at 7 a.m. of Tuesday, September 25, and shortly afterwards we got under way. "We were helped along with a good fresh breeze at first, but it gradually fell oh", and we were becalmed several times during the day. The weather was dull, cloudy, and showery, and we did not see the sun for the whole of the day. "We were now bound for the Samoa Islands, 1300 miles AV.N."W. of us. During the first four days the wind, though aft, was generally light, and at times the sails Happed about without doing much work. 2b The rolling of the sea : 1^ m j :i ;! !h 11 ■ 1 i. 1 1 I li 194 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. was very heavy almost the whole time, and I do not tliink I have ever known tlie yaclit roll about so disagreeably before. We made, however, very fair progress, running on an average about 140 miles a-day. On Sunday, September 30, we were favoureil by a very strong breeze ; the con- sequence was that the day's run was the best we had yet made since starting on our voyage, beating the previous record by eight miles. On taking observations at noon we found that we had lui 252 miles in the last twenty-four hours. The sliip, however, continued to roll so heavily that it was impossible to nold divine service that day. Monday, October 1, was much calmer, and a heavy shower of rain which fell in the afternoon made the air quite fresh and agreeable. There was a good breeze all the morning, but it dropped considerably in the evening. We ran, how- ever, 204 miles. xV great pet on board died that day. It was the second of two tame rabbits Avhich we had got at Speedwell Island in the previous December. It had some- how sustained an injury to its mouth, which was evidently the cause of death. We had hoped to take it safely home, and every one was sorry that the poor little thing died. At eleven the next morning, Piose Island, the first of the Samoan group, was sighted from the mast-head. Then Manna came into view, and we were abreast of it at 10.30 P.M. The Samoan group is composed of thirteen islands, three only of which are of any importance. The largest is Savaii, which has an area of 700 square miles ; Upolu, the next in size, and 500 square miles, is really the principal island, and contains the capital where the king resides. Tlie group was first discovered by Bougainville, who called it Les lies des Navigateurs on account of the skill with w'hich the natives managed their canoes. A good breeze lasted all night, and at daybreak next morning we saw the island of Tutuila; its hills thickly 1^ PAGOPAGO. 195 1 woodod to their summits, and numerous villages situated on the shore. We anchored in Tagopago harbour at noon — an excellent port, completely landlocked, and sheltered from all wind. Its length is nearly three miles, from the entrance to the village of Pago at its head, from which we anchored at about one mile distant. The scenery was very beautiful, and the vegetation luxuriant in the extreme. The hills on all sides of the bay were one mass of foliage ; there were also signs of life and prosper- ity all around the shore, houses and villages appearing everywhere. The harbour seemed thickly populated, and we were in- undated with vis- itors ; our arriviil attracted quite a tleetof canoes. The natives were a fine set of men, the majority of whom understood and spoke a little Eng- lish. The men were tattooed on their sides, thighs, and body, some of the patterns being very elaborate, and they had a curious fashion of dressing their hair, which was plastered over with wet lime, giving their heads the appearance of a fashionable London footman. The women were much more simple in their appearance, and contented themselves with a few tattoo-marks on their arms. After Aiitive girl — Samoa. :l! il 11 2H I ' i il ;1 i -;1 !i if .I'ii 19G A WAlt-UANOK. liincliin<4 wo wont ashore to a small villaj,'e opposite to which wo wore lyini,'. It contained al)out a couple of ilo/cn houses, a few canoe-sheds, and a disused Independent church. The houses were quite diCforent in their construction from any that W(i had seen elsewhere. Some were circular and otliers oval, and they were formed by stout posts driven into the uround several feet apart, mats l)ein,i; hung around the sides. The roofs were thalclied, and the llooring was composed of small stones iirmly beaten down until they had become smooth and level. jNIost of the houses were provided with two circular fireplaces in the centre, around which mats were spread. The natives were very friendly and communicative, pressing mo to enter their houses and sit down. I l)0ught in one place a piece of tappa prettily stamped in colours, and in another a couple of wooden spears. The tappa is made from tlie pith of the bread-fruit tree, and is used for bed-covers and wrappers. i^oon after our return to the yach., Father Forestier, a Freuuu ,... ''^! ary, came oil' and called upon us. He was an {igreeable nuui, courteous and hospitable, and he invited us to visit his mission on the following day. At 5 p.m. we went in the launch to I'agopago. This was nothing more than a village not much larger than one we had previinisly seen, the houses being of similar construction. As we were returning to f.lie l)oat, we saw a large war-canoe entering the port, and we therefore waited till it was beached, when I examined it. It had two hulls, joined together by transverse beams, and was decked over. A small house stood on the deck, and the canoe was provided with one enormous sail made of matting. Xo nails were used in its construction, everything being fastened together with cocoa-nut fibre. The total length of the canoe was about 40 feet, and there w\as an old iron gun in the bows. On returning to the yacht I found her deck swarming with natives, many of whom had brought ofif curiosities for sale, — the principal being beauti- i'u Vt THE FHKxNCH CATHOLIC MISSION. 197 Cully carvod wuv-clubs of (iiilevcnit i)iittevns, iuul appnvcnlly very old. Several of tliest! 1 purchased. Tile Frencli Catholic ^li.ssion, presided over by Father J'orestier, which we visiteil on the followiuL; moriiiiiji;, was situated about half-way up the harbour, and consisted of one house built in European style, one room bein;^' litted up and used as a cliaiicl. A few native houses around the mission-house were used as schoolrooms, dormitories, &c. The ^li.ssion was supportetl I)y the Society for the Propa- gation of the Faith, who paid the priest the magnificent sum of 200 dollars, about equivalent to £o'.\ sterling a- year. On this miserable pittance the priest had to live his lonely life amongst the natives, scarcely ever seeing a European, and without even the hope of returning to Eu- ro}>e to cheer him; for unless his health was so completely broken down as to totally unfit him to perform his duties, it is an understood thing in the Catholic Church that a mis- sion priest is to live and die amongst the people whom he has undertaken to Christianise. I condoled with Father Forestier on the exceedingly small sum that he received, when in the simplest tones, and without al'i'ectation, he re- plied, " C'est assez. Le bon Dieu nous aidera." It would have been impossible for any one, however I'rt/testant he might have been, not to adnure the courage and devotion shown by the priest, who, after all, was one of a great num- ber of a similar type scattered throughout the world. It was low water when we attempted to land, and we were compelled to go a mile farther down, and walk to the mission-house through the woods. iVfter a short conver- sation with Father Forestier we accompanied him to the schoolroom. No sooner were we seated than a procession of children and a few grown - np people appeared, all decorated with wreaths of flowers and leaves, and every one carrying something in his hand, either a mat, or fruit, or pieces of tappa, or some ofl'ering, while two men were IF :}l J f. i ; 1 I; 198 AN INTERESTING VISIT. dragging a fowl each l)y a piece of string tied to its leg. They tiled into tlie scliooh'oom one by one, and as they passed in front of us they laid these offerings at our feet. After this they all sat down in a circle, and an old man made a s})eech in the Sanioan language. The burden of this, as interpreted to us by Father Forestier, was that tliey wel- comed us, and begged us to honour tliem l)y accepting their presents, and that they hoped we would have a prosper- ous voyage when we left. In re])ly I made a short speech, which was translated by the Father, after which singing commenced. The songs, whicli of course were in tlie native tongue, were accompanied with much swaying of tlie body and limbs, in whicli all kept time together as perfectly as any tronpc of ballet-dancers in I'r.gbjid. They con- cluded with the hymn Tantum cnjo in Latin, befoie singing which they carefully removed all their llowers an 1 decora- tions. The singing was delightfully simple, earnest, and impressive ; and we were all much pleased with what we saw and heard. There was no regular church at the mission as yet ; but Father Forestier had begun to build one, being his own carpenter, architect, and in a great measure his own workman. There is no doubt that in this and similar islands the Catholic mission meets with far greater success than those of the Protestant communities ; and the principal rea- son for this, I believe, is, that the priests do not interfere with the innocent amusements of the natives, and do not impose any petty aiul vexatious regulations upon them ; whereas, in most of the islands which are strongholds of Protestantism, dancing, however hr.rmless, is strictly for- bidden, and smoking is preached against as a deadly sin. I have even known natives to be prohibited from bathing on Sundays; and In some cases the converts are expected to provide themselves with shoddy European garr.ents pur- chased at the mission store. At three o'clock in the afternoon we received a visit RELIGIOUS SECTS IN THE ISLANDS. 199 from a IMormon missionary, who came to beg for milk and groceries for a baby of his wlio was sick. We supplied him with all that he required, and he went away very grateful. At four o'clock Father Forestier came on board to tea accompanied by thirty of his mission children. They all appeared to enjoy themselves heartily, and especially did ample justice to their tea, to judge from the amount of bread and jam which they consumed. Afterwards, to the great delight of the sailors, they sang a number of songs sinular to those which we had heard and witnessed in the morning. It is certainly a very unfortunate thing for the natives the introduction of ^Mormon missionaries ; it is more than sufficient that there should already be botli Independents and Catholics on these small islands, without another sect coming to make further dissension. The French and Belgian missionary priests are a devoted body of men, gentlemen by birth — at least, all those I have met — who have freely given up, without hope of reward in this world, everything that can make life worth living, and who simply live for the sake of '^oing good to others. The Protestant nnssion- aries, on the contrary, who usually belong to some obscure sect, are men from a lower class of life, not particularly well educated, and who generally have an eye to the main chance — in short, in many cases Ihoy are traders first and mis- sionaries afterwards. Heavy rain fell during the night, and the following morn- ing it was blowing half a gale. It was therefore impossible to sail, and we went on shore for a short time before lunch to watch the natives fishing. They used a sort of seine, but instead of being a twine net, it was composed of quantities of dried leaves and rushes strung closely together on a cord. Altliough it iippetped a strange-looking article it -evidently answered its puiposc well, for when it was hauled ashore it contained a vast number of small fish closely resembling sprats. I was niformed of a curious fact — namely, that l:*\:. m r I,. i '■ ii'l 1' 1 ) i ! i h i aa£££Si SAMO.W WEAPON'S AND I M I'LKM ENTS. A, K;iva-bo\vl. R, Wooden -^near, C, Comb. D, ^\'al-"l^l■. 1',, Carved board for printing '••si^^'ns nr tan'-ii. CCTKIO- HUNTING. 201 during the last eighteen months some poisonous disease had appeared amongst the fish, iii consequence of which several deaths had occurred amongst the natives after eatinut IMataafa did not dare to attack their stronghold, as the Adler had threatened to open fire upon him. A tropical torrent of rain poured down the wliole of the next morning up to noon, when the sky suddenly cleared and the rest of the day was tine. The rain was certainly the heaviest we had seen for a long time, and we almost filled our tanks with it. At two o'clock an excitement was caused both to those on shore and to us on our vessels as Tamasese's people went in their canoes to attack Mataafa's position. They did not venture to land, however, but kept up a brisk fire for about half an hour from behind a reef. So far as we could judge there were no casualties on either side, the range being too great, though both parties were well s-.pplied witli Vdi III n ■ I ' t I ; i I feii' .'fi I iif i- 1 \i 204 H.]\J.S, CALLIOPE. >i reefs, and was exceedingly difficult and dangerous ; but for- tunately we had an excellent chart of it on a large scale, and when we had passed the worst places a native pilot appeared, wlioni we took on board. We arrived and anchored in Xiukalofa harbour at a quarter-past 8 a.m. There we found H.M.S. Egeria, as also the Richmond, a small steamer which we had met at Tahiti. Captain A. of the Egeria called soon after we had anchored, and invited us to spend the afternoon on board his sliip. He had been at Tongatabu for four months, the ship being engaged on a special survey. At noon we landed at a very good stone mole which runs out s ne 500 yards from the shore. The town of Niukalofa, though small, is clean, and contrasts most favourably with those of the other islands which we liad lately visited. The ground is very level, the higliest point on the island not rising more than GO feet above the sea. Where the vegetation has been cleared away, the island is everywliere covered with beautiful green turf. The houses are dotted about without regard to regularity, which certainly adds to their eil'ect. There were several European houses to be seen, though most of them were built in the native fash- ion. A custom-house and Government oirices faced the sea, being simply plain wooden buildings. The king's pal- ace is a pretty-looking wooden villa, standing in a garden well laid out witli llowers and shrubs. IJeside it was a chapel, which was by far the most imposing building in Niu- kalofa, though also constructed of wood ; it had two neat towers. The appearance of the place on the wliole was decidedly prepossessing, and 1 returned to my yacht much pleased with my first impressions of it. In the afternoon we went, according to invitation, on board H.]\1.8. Egeria, where we had tlie pleasure of meeting the captain's wife. At the conclusion of our visit there we again went ashore, and walked first to a church standing ) * 5 ; but for- iarge scale, ative pilot bour at a Egeria, as lad met at er we had I on board ir months, At noon runs out Niukalofa, rably with \y visited, the island Where the iverywhere are dotted ly adds to ses to be itive fash- faced the ing's pal- a garden it was a ng in Niu- two neat vhole was cht much ation, on : meeting there we standing D ■J y. o r: I nt \'ii I ! Mi I I I'i :i !i;l !i THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS. 20^ on a knoll al)Ove the town, whore was a memorial which had heen erected to the memory of Captain Croker, li.N., who was killed at the stockade of liea whilst attemptinjf to carry it by assault. From the summit of this knoll, of which I have already spoken as the highest point of the island, I obtained a fine view of the town and the sur- rounding country. I then called on Mr L., ]>ritish Vice- Consul, also a Deputy Commissioner for the AVestern Pacific. His house, which is of native construction, has already been described by ]\Ir Lambert in his ' Voyage of the Wanderer.' The group of islands, of which there are thirty-two in- habited, were discovered by Tasnian in 10-43, and were given their present name of Friendly Islands by Cook. Tongatabu, the principal island, is 2o miles long ann o miles broad, having an area of 128 square miles. Tlie climate is mild and damp, the average temperature being 70", and earthquakes are frequent. The chief exports are copra, sugar, coffee, and cotton, — the total value in 1888 being £66,-473. The imports during the same year amounted to £18,730. The population, which was at one time estimated at nearly 50,000, had diminished in 1884 to 22,937. The whole group was united under one sovereign in the eaidy part of the nineteenth century, and a constitutional Crovern- ment was formed in 1802. The treaty signed at lierlin between England and Germany in 1880, provides for the neutrality of this little kingdom. Early next morning I started in ray launch, accompanied by the head pilot, whose name was Friday, to visit ]\Iua, the old capital of the island. The sea was choppy, and we took over us a great deal of spray. A strong tide, moreover, was running out of the I'^goon, and it was as much as the launch could do to make head against it. AVe reached IMua at a quarter to nine, and found ourselves in a pretty spot, the ground being everywhere covered with bright grassy turf, with fine old trees scattered about, reminding one very 'i «ii lii 208 A NATIVK DRINK. much of an Kni^lisli ]iark. So i,nveu does tliis islaiitl of Ton,ti;atal)ii a)>i)('av, that it nii.^ht justly be entitleil "The iMueialtl IsUi of the Paeilic" Our first business was to lant between stones until it was reduced to a ])owder, then putting it into a wooden bowl, especially kept for the pur])ose, and pouring water on it. The woman who was m.aking it then took a bundle of i'bre and ran the liquor through it several times. The d( "on was then completed, and poured into cocoa-nut t.. , and handed round. It had a ])ungent bitter tastu, and I thought it ex- ceedingly nasty ; but the natives i.re excessively fond of it. There is some special ceremony connected with its use, and the fact of its being prepared for me Vv'as a sign that Tugi wished to ]i.iy me particular attention. In the less civilised islands the root is chewed instead of being ground between stones. It is considered that when taken in large quanti- ties, kava has the ef'I'ect of temporarily ] paralysing the lower limbs, whilst leaving the faculties clear. Having drunk our kava, and bidden farewell to our host, we started on horseback to visit an ancient stone aionunient at a place called Kaluga. This we reached after an hour's delightful ride over a perfectly wild grassy tract through the forest. I did not consider that there was much of inter- est in the monument, which resembled a gateway composed of two upright stones about 12 feet Ingh, and the third one laid across the top and mortised into the other two. The natives have, I believe, no traditions to account either for its purpose or its presence ; but it certainly is rather curious to find in this out-of-the-way island an erection so '■ so AN ENORMOUS CAVK. 200 closL'ly I'DVivspoiidiiiLi; to tlie tlolinens which abound in Syria and other countric's of tho Kast, to say nothin;^ of llio (h'uid- ical remains which iiro to he viewed at St<»)iehenj;e and else- where in Kn,u,land. After resting for a sliort time at Kahii^a we rode on eight miles, in ordijr to visit a cave situated elose to the sea about two miles from M\m. As we had announced our intention of seeing' this place before we had left the village, some boys had been sent with torch'-s to meet us. These were necessary, as the track and the entrance to it were so narrow that one had to crawl in on hands and knees. Inside, however, it was very roomy, and about three hundred yards fn^m the entrance wv came to a large vault where was a pool of water, and the roof of which was Inuig with sta- lactites. The common tradition amongst the natives had been that the pool was bottondess ; but unfortunately for this illusion, the Egeria's leaddine had proved it to be only 14 feet d(H']». One of tiie boys clindjed on to a ledge over- hanging the water, then dived, and afterwards swam about with a torch in his hand to show us the extent of the place. The cave is considered to extend at least a distance of two miles from its mouth, and it has no known exit. After leav- ing the cave we returned to Mua to bid good-bye to Tugi, and in parting from him I presented him with a bottle of beer, which he seemed greatly to appreciate. The day's excursion had been interesting and enjoyable, and my ride had enabled mc to form a good idea of the nature and capabilities of the island. After dinner the British \'ice-Consul, Mr L., came off and spent the evening on the yacht. We had fully intended to have gone on our way the next morning ; but as usual, it was blowing too hard to allow us to make the start. Besides this, I found the chief officer suffering apparently from fever, and I therefore went ashore to bring Dr B. off to the yacht to see him. I also returned and went to his house when he left the yacht, to bring back the medicines which he had prescribed. 2D '■\i m 1, i 1 • j i ' \<. !■■ u 210 POLITICAL AFFAIRS IN TONGA. If. If f !i \ I I He lived in a comfortable home, with a pretty warden, and he had a wonderful collection of curiosities which he liad obtained amoni-- the different islands of tlie Pacitic. He was one of the very few white men wlio liad lived in the Solomon Islands, and had penetrated into their aiterior. On my way back to the yaclit I called at the Consuhite, and then visited the king's chajiel, which I found tidily and well kept inside, and fitted up with handsome wood-work imported from Xew Zealand. A gorgeous arm-chair stood in the royal pew, witli a carved and gilded crown above it. In the after- noon I ngain went asliore, to pay my account for pilotage at tlie harbour-master's oflice, l)ut was agreeably surprised to be informed that no charge was made to yachts for pilot ser- vices. St Micliael's in the Azoies was the only place in whieli I had ever been before whi>re a similar excellent rule pre\'ailed. We had been invited to lawn-tennis at the Con- sulate afterwards. Unfortunately heavy rain came on, and we had to take refug'^ in the house, where I learned from Mr L. a great deal about the existing condition of political mat- ters in Tonga, Xing (ieorge was then in his ninety-fourth year, and was the original king under whom tlio group had been nr.ited more than seventy years ago. He was at the tune of my visit c(.mpletely under tlie tluunb of his prime iiiinistcr, ]Mr Shirley liaker, who virtually ruled the island. This man had formerly been a AVesleyan missionary in Tonga, but owing to some pecuniary scandal he had l)een expelled from the Churcli. In order to avenge himself he had established a sect, to which he, liad given the name of a free churcli. To this church he endeavoured by every means in his power to force the natives to conform, and I was in- formed that those who refused had fre([uently by his order been strung up and flogged. For his services as prime minister he was receiving a salary of £aker, who was tired at whilst out driving with his daughter. Tlie latter was slightly wounded, but liaker himself escaped scot-free. For this attempt six men were executed, though it was notorious that four of them were perfectly innocent. It was connu(jnly reported in Tonga that IJaker's life would not be worth an hour's purchase after the old king's death. ]\lr L. informed me that the (Jovernor of Fiji had the power of removing Baker from the island, and it certainly seemed a grievous pity that he did not exercise it, and thus free the country from a minister who was execrated by every one, and was the author of so much evil.^ The wind was blowing in furious gusts as I returned to the yacht at half-})ast six, taking with me a man to v.'hoai I had promised a passage to 8an Francisco in consideration of his acting as cook. The following day the wind was still blowing a gale, and as the pilot declined to take us out of the harl)Our, there was nothing to be done biu to remain in patience. Towards the eve>'ing the wind and sea went down consid- erably, and the following m, and named by him Prinz AVillhems Eylanden. Turtle Island was discovered by Cook i:i 177?>. lUigh visited tliem in the Dounty's launch alter the mutiny in 17>S'J. I)'Urville partially surveyed them in 1827; but the first complete survey was made by the U.S. exploring expedi- tion in 1S40. Tiiere are altogether no fewer than 250 islands in the group, and of these about 80 are inhabited. Their total area is 8034 square miles. The largest and most important is Viti Levu, 80 miles long and 5.j miles broad, though Vanua Lavti is longer, extending 100 miles by 25. The climate of the Fiji Islands is warm and damp ; the mean temperature for the year being about 8(i . December to April are called the hurricane months, and of these February and ^larch are the worst. The population has considerably decreased of late years, having been l m> r 216 BLACKBIRDING. ^^' for a term of three years, at the expiration of which time they are sent back to their homes. The old labour trade, which used to be called " Dlackbirding," s now a thing of the past. The recruiting vessels are obliged to carry a Government agent, and from the time that the natives leave their own islands until they return to them on the expiration of the contract they are well looked after and cared for, and in addition they receive just and liberal wages. The Fijians as a race are tall and powerful, and most of them have enor- mous heads of hair, which they wear all frizzed out. After lunching on board, I landed at the Government jetty, and walked u]) to the house of the Governor, which was large, roomy, and pleasantly situated in the midst of pretty grounds on a hill overlooking the harbour. Having had an interesting and agreeable half-hour's conversation with his Excellency, I returned to the yacht ; but after tea I once more landed again. ]\Iy principal object on this occa- sion was to inspect a collection of curiosities which an officer of the Customs department had advertised for sale. They consisted almost entirely of articles from the Solomon Islands, and I purchased a few that I fan :ied the most. I also got a few photos and some more cu'ios from a pliotographer'o in the place. I had been vjry anxious to make an expedi- tion up the liewa, being desirous to gain some idea of the resources of the count)/, and to see what is said to be the largest sumir-mill in the world, which is situated on that river. I was, however, reluctantly compelled to relinquish the idea, as the weather continued so abominably wet. The sugar industry had been for some years past in a languishing condition, and the planters in consequence had sufl'ered con- siderably. Times, however, had in some measure changed, and at the time of my visit the prospect was much more fa- vourable. Tea was also cultivated with considerable success in th" Fiji Islands, being of an excellent quality and with a peculiar Havour of its own, not altogether unlike the best In- 3h time r trade, a thing carry a es leave :piratiori for, and 3 rijians Lve euor- 'ernment .)!•, which midst of Having iversation iter tea I this occa- an otticer Ic. They u Islands, also got a apher's in n expcdi- ka of the to he the d on that relinciuish wet. The nguishing ri'cred con- d changed, 1 more fa- )le success lid with a I'j hesr In- O X iiM'. m M ) J ;i !!■ I '1 It ' '' NARKOW ESCAPE FROM CANNIBALS. 217 dian tea. It was largely consumed in Australia, but had not as yet found its way to the Loudon market. ]5ananas and pine-apples were also largely exported, and whilst we were at Suva a steamer was there loading 20,000 bunches of the former for Xew Zealand. On Thursday, October 25, we lunched with Dr and ^Mrs C, whose house stood a little way out of the town, on the hill at the back of the Government buildings. There we met Mr F. C, the Chief- JustiL.,- of the colony. Soon after my return on board six of the principal chiefs came to call on me, being also anxious to inspect the ship. They were an exceedingly handsome, polite, and dignified lot of men, and two of them spoke English fairly well. One was a relative of Thakoni- bau, and had been chielly instrumental in ceding the island to the British crown. ^Mr M. dined with us in the evening, and I was particularly anxious to hear his opinion about the cannibalism which is said by some to still exist in the Fiji Islaiuls. He told me that he believed that it might be considered to have becoine extinct, though he would not absolutely guarantee that isolated cases did not occur even then amongst the remote n-ountain tribes. He had had some strange and rather startling experiences in that line, as eight years before, whilst he was staying at a village in the hills, the natives were cooking a baby in the next hut to him. ]\Ioreovei', seven years before that, he himself had liad an exceedingly narrow escape of being killed and eaten. He had been taken prisoner, and was tied up ready to be killed and cooked. The fires had even been lit, and the oven prepared before his very eyes in which he was to be baked ; but fortunately for him his captors all got drunk, and lie succeeded with dilliculty in making his escape. He was shortly about to make an expedition inland, and he kindly promised to secure for me some cannibal forks and dishes and send them to Melbourne. It is most dillicult to get genuine articles such as these, forks and dishes at the pres- 2 E '! ;ii it i\ 218 UNSETTLED WE » TH ER. . m ent time, llinuLrh iinitatiniis are largely inamifnctmvd for the benefit of straiiiier.s. Next clay, Friday, October 2G, tliouL;li it was still pouring with rain, I detennined to put to sea again ; therefore after breakfast T went ashore and settled up our bill at ^Mark's stores, where I found the prices more reasonable than at any other port where I had called. T paid a farewell visit to jMr S., who kindlv uave me a dttzen Solomon Island arrows, lieturning to the yacht at half-jiast twelve, we got under way an hour later, and ran out of the harl)our without a pilot. As soon as we got into the open we encountercMl a strong breeze, with squalls and rain. I felt considerable regret on leaving the Fiji Islands at not having seen more of them. I had been particularly anxious to ascend the river Ilewa, aiid also I had been very desirous of seeing something of the inner life, manners, and customs of the natives in the inlaiul disti'icts, where they have not yet been exposed to the same iuHuences of civilisation as in the town and sea- ports. The weather, however, had been so bad that even if it had been possible to make these excursions, there could have been no real pleasure or enjoyment in them ; and there seemed little or no prospect of the rain clearing off. Suva itself was a disappointing town, much smaller and more insignificant than I had been led to anticipate. It seems strange that the climate should be considered as healthy as it is; for owing to the heavy rainfall and constant damp, one would have expected that the weather would have been very trying to the constitution. AVe were now bound for Xoumea in Xew Caledonia, and we took the Kandavu passage. A very heavy sea continued for the next two days, Imt towards tlie close of the second day the sky began to clear, and the sun shone out brightly. ^Monday, October 20, was a beautiful day, with a smooth sea and a fresh breeze, an experience unusual and exhilarat- ing. In the cour.se of the afternoon we passed within a mile NEW CALEDONIA. 219 of AVal[)()le Island, which, as we a^jproached it from the north, presented an appearance of an ohhuiLi; tuhle. It is entirely surrounded by jjerpeudicular clills about 200 feet high, on the sides of which are numerous caves. The top aiipeared perfectly level, and covered with bushes ; but so far as we could see, tlie island was unapproachable, there being no \)h\vv, where a boat could land, nor any possibil- ity of anchorage off it. Naturally, therefore, the island is uninhabited and unclaimed. It appeared to be a resort of frigate and other birds, which were hovering over it in vast (pumtities. At thiybreak next morning we sighted the island of Xew Caledonia, but the barrier-reef extends to such a dis- tance oil' it that we did not arrive abreast of the entrance to the Jiulari passage until two o'clock p.m. There we were boarded Ity a pilot opposite the lighthouse, a very tine structure, which stands on Amedee Island, just inside the entrance. The passage was simple, and ]aesents few dilliculties. Wc; had a strong fair wind with us, and we therefore arrivetl and anchored in Xoumea harbour soon after half-past three. The port is spacious, and has good anchorage, being almost completely landlocked ; and the town presents an attractive ajipearance from the sea. The French gunboat Scorpion, wiiich we had met at Taliiti, was lying in the harbour, as also another very small French vessel, which was used f(jr local surveys. On landing we found the to^n clean and well laiil out, showing the intlu- ence of French civilisation. The shops, which were numer- ous, were of a better description than any we had seen since leaving Callao. The roads, which have all been constructed by convict labour, are quite as good as any in England. In the centre of the town is a large square, with a band-stand in the middle, amply provided with comfortable seats. The streets are well paved, and fiacres are plentiful ; the horses which draw them are well-bred and strong. li UM \ ■ iil'i i M' 220 A NATURALISTS MUSEUM. AVo drove at (nue lo tlic iJiilish Consulate, which lay ahont n mile licvdud till! town. We found the Consul, Mr I.., at liiiiiu', and were hosi-italdy ivceived by him. ITe was an enlliusiastic naturalist and l>r>tanist, and had a very complete and valualtle collection of shells, birds, and ])lants, most, of whicli III! hims(df had <^athcred toL^ctlicr in New Caledonia, l*'iji, tlic Xcw Hebrides, and Solomon Islands. He made ns promise to return in the evening to dinner ; and nii.cnwhile we continued our drive, takini; a circuit of about iive miles round tlie town. AVe frequently passed lart^e squads of convicts on their way back to prison at the close of their day's work in the quarries or on the roads. I was struck with the ill-favoured look that almost all of them bore, tlieir features being impressed with the true criminal stamp. There were altogether l;5,000 on the island, out if \\hich larye nundici' oidy nine were English. At diinier I met Mr ][. I'., author of the '"Western Pacific' and other works, and we spent a most pleasant evening together. Mr L. showed us some of his most interesting curiosities ; those which delighted me most l)eing perhaps some beautiful pearl sliells, which had been most exipiisitely carved by one of the convicts. Sti'ange to say, I was told that mine was the first yacht that had ever visited Xoumea. It seems a remarkable circumstance? that one can scarcely touch at any place of importance without having some disagreeable experiences with one's men. On rising the next morning it was reported to me that James ^lillar, A.r.., liad been on shore the night before without leave, and had returned at 7 A.^r. hopelessly drunk. This was the third or fourth time that such a thing had happened with him ; and to make matters worse, whilst I was deliberating what I ought to do with him, two other of my men, Dlack and Macdonald, came and told me that they wished to leave the ship. I replied that I could not for a moment consent to their discharge, as it would be EXHIBITION OF LOCAL INUUSTRIKS. 221 impossible for mc at Noumcii to ^.^el otliev iiu'ii to ivplaco them. Tiioivupon they expressed a desire to see the Coiisid, and I therefore went and saw IMr L., and arranged to ])rin'^' them before him in the afternoon. At two oVdock, accord- inf^ly, I took the men to tlie Consuhitc, and Mr L. informed them tluit as they had signed an nndertaking to remain with me for tliree years, he wonld not sanction their discliarge ; and lie explained fnrther to them that the ship's articles were as mnch for my protection as for theirs. This settled the matter, and the men returned to the ship. I went witli 'Mr JM., the United States Consul, to a shop where some carved shells were olTered for sale, but I did not take a fancy to them, and the workmanship appeared to me defective ; and I therefore only bought one nautilus shell. I then drove to Government House and called on the acting Governor, but I found him a quiet, shy, retiring man, and our interview only lasted a few minutes. Afterwards I A'is- ited an exhibition of local industries and products of the island. The show was really highly creditable for so small a place as Noumea, — iimongst the objects of interest being a quantity of arms and grotesquely carved figures from the Xew Ifebrides and other islands in addition, and many specimens of work done by the New Caledonian convicts. ]\Iinerals were well represented in the exhibition, Xew Cal- edonia being exceedingly rich in nickel and copper, whilst gold and chrome are found in small quantities, and coal of a poor quality also exists. The Government work the nickel and other mines with convict labour, but nevertheless these scarcely pay their expenses. We sat for some time in the exhibition listening to the convict band, which was very good, and whilst the strains of music were falling on my ears I was being informed of the band-master's history. He looked a mild enough man, but the crime for which he was suffering was a particularly horrible one, and eminently French in its details. He had I . '■ I. i I '' lit ^ 222 A llEVOLTIXO CIJIME. been a doctor, and having eitlier real or inif'^I-aary cause to be jealous of his wife, he murdered her and cut up her body into small pir ^s, taking out the heart. Having invited the man whom he suspected to dinner, he served up her heart cooked ; and after his guest, ignorant of course of tlie real nature of the dish set before him, had eaten it, lie calndy in- formed him wliat he had done. He had been tried in France for the murder ; but the jury having found extenuating cir- cumstances, he had been sent out to Xew Caledonia for life. It seemed perfectly incredible tliat a monster so inhuman could have been allowed to escajie the death he so richly UKirited ; and wlien I liad heard his story I could scarcely take my eyes away from him, for it seemed im])ossible to believe tliat the man who so calmly was conducting tlie band could have been guilty of so revolting a crime. 223 CHAPTER XXIII. i'vfj HISTORY OF NEW CALEDONIA— IXTERESTIXG PAHTICULAR8 COX- CEUXIXG THE COXVICTS AXD Ll]:i':i;iis EXCUHSIOX IXTO THE IXTEUIOR OF THE ISLAXP THE COXVEXT OF THE IMMACULATE COXCEl'TIOX THE MI.SSIOX STATIOX OF ST LOUIS DISCHARGE OF JAMES MILLAR, A.li. CONVICT ESTABLISHMEXT ON ILE NOU A DISCOURTEOUS OOVERXOK COXDEMXKD CIUMINALS EX- ORRITANT PILOTAGE WE LEAVE NEW CALEDOXIA LOYALTY ISLAXDS THE XEW HEBRIDES — ERROMAXGO A QUAINTLY INTERESTING SERVICE OX SUXDAY MISSIOX LIFE IX THE XEW HERRIDES. Xovanher 1-11, ISSS. xw The island oi' Xow Caledonia was discovered by Cook in 1774, but it was not occui)ied by the French till 1853, when it was made into a penal settlenient. Two thousand men of the infnntcric de marinr were quartered there at the time of our visit; in addition to which was a battery of artillery, whose barracks were, handsome Ituildings situated in a prom- inent position upon a hill overlook ing- the harbour. Tlie soldiers, who are stationed here for the purpose of guarding the convicts, generally serve three years on tlic island, after which they are sent back to France. New Caledonia is about 250 miles long, its average broadtli being about 25 miles. Some portions of it are very mountainous — the highest peak, called Mount Humboldt, rising 53S0 feet al)ove the sea. The whole island is well wooded, much of the timber being of a very fine description. Bi*.' s I . , : ||f- 1 224 PARTICULAKS CONCERNING CONVICTS. From the Ikitisli Consul, Mr L., who lunched with us on Thursday, November 1, I obtained some interesting;' particu- lars concerning the lihi'n% as the French term tlieir ticket- ot'-leave men. It appears that upon the release of a convict at the expiration of his time, or in consequence of good conduct, he is allowed by the autliorities there two or three acres of land — the necessary implements for cultivation, together with the requisite seed, being at the same time supplied to him gratis. Tliis plan was intended to give the convicts an opportunity of regaining an honest livelihood; but the system, excellent though it seems jrrimd facie, does not appear to have proved a success. There are two causes to -account for the failure. In the first place, by far t!ie greater number of the convicts have lived in cities and towns during their former lives, and are therefore {d»solutely unacquainted with tlie prinei[)les of agriculture and are un- fitted for a country life. Secondly, tlie soil on the island is miserably poor, and even under the most favourable cir- cumstances of cultivation, could .scarcely grow remunerative crops. The natural consequence has been, that these lihdn's have generally relapsetl into crime, and proved a source of terror to their more respectable neighbours. jMurder, Ijurg- lary, riipe, and unnatural crimes are of frequent occurrence on the island; and although severe punisliment is nonunally supposed to follow upon the conviction of any of these offences, the lirst three of wliich are capital crimes, yet as a matter of fact the punishment is so sekhim carried into ellect that the fear of consequences is no deterrent to the criminals. It has been stated that convicts frequently escape from New Caledonia, but this is by no means true. They often indeed escape from the prison and get away into the Itush; but they cannot long exist there, as there are no cocoa-nuts or fruit upon winch to sub- sist, as might be the case on many other islands in the I'aeilic ; and, moreover, an escaj)ed convict is certain to of EXCURSION INTO THE INTEHIOR. 225 bo recaptured before Iohl;, us a rc\vard of 50 francs is a sulliciently temptiu!^' bait to induce the first native that meets liini to lay his hands upon him. As for escape from the ishxud itself, every ship is rigorously searclied by the ])oIice before it leaves the liarbour; and the oidy possible chance would l)e to steal a small boat and endeo.vour to make for the Australian coast, the chances being greatly against his safely accomplishing the passage across the open sea in such a frail vessel. Our colonists in Australia, there- fore, need scarcely be in such a state of apprehension and uneasiness with regard to the New Caledonian convicts as has been manifested by them on more than one occasion, Friday, November 2, had been fixed upon by ns for a drive into ■.he country with ^Mr and ]\Irs L. The day was pleasant and cool, and soon iifter 8 a.m. we started on our way, bound for a place called La Coulee, distant 13 miles from Noumea, where we proposed to have our lunch. It was very delightful, after so many experiences that we had had of wretched paths, to find ourselves driven the whole way along a nost excellent road, which has been constructed and is ke}it in repair by the convicts. AVe met several gangs of tliem at work upon the road i' ditlerent places. The api)earauce of tlie country corroborated the Consul's state- ment that it was unadapteil for agriculture, the .soil appear- ing in many ]»laces to lie merely on the siirtace of the solid rock innnediateJy below. On our way we stopped for a few minutes at <■ :> convent of the Inimaculate Conception, the motlier t.m. te'S of whicli were all French. Tlieir time is mainly occupied in female education. A sliort distance farther on we again halted to view the mission station of St Louis, an institution supported by the Society for tlie Tropagation of the Faith; and as is the case with all their missions, it a])peared most admirably numaged. There were three French priests in cluirge, and ninety native boys. Tliese were taught French, 2 F i'i '3 71! I i 1 ■ \ -if ii: ■' I iitW !.. ■i 'kit I li r ■fir ; i (i I li 226 MISSION STATION OF ST LOUIS. reading, writing, arithmetic, and geograpliy, and in addition to this they had an excellent technical education. We vis- ited the workshops, wliero the boys were busily labouring, some learning to be car])enters, others blacksmiths, others wheelwrights, and so fortli. All the arrangements connected witli the mission buildings and grounds were really excel- lent. The dormitories in particular excited our admiration, being large, airy, and scrupulously clean and tidy. The chapel was very pretty and the grounds well laid out — some very fair land tor cultivation belonging to the mission, upon which sugar-cane, Indian corn, and vegetables were growing. The iminession produced upon us by our visit to this mission station of St Louis was one of satisfaction and pleasure ; and subscribers to the Society for the Propagation of the Faith may rest assured that their money is well expended, and the greatest amount of good possible is done with it. At half-]>ast ten we reached La Coulee, which is a favourite place for picnics with the islanders. At a comfortable restaurant, kept by a Frenchman and his wife, we had a very fair lunch. At 2 P.M. we started on our return journey, reaching Noumea at half-past three. On my arrival on board the yacht 1 was much annoyed to find that ]\Iillar had again ab.sented himself without leave. The next day he was brouglit on board by the police, having been arrested by them for drunken and disorderly conduct in the town. ^ly patience with the man being by this time thoroughly exhausted, I took Jiim off to the Consulate and arranged for his discharge. On Saturday the .')d Xovember, which was another beau- tifully tine day, 1 visited ll'o convict establishment on lie Xou, the Italian Vice-Consul having kindly jjrocured me an order of admission from the director. Contrary to the usual custom of French oflicials, who as a rule are scrupulously punctilious in luatters of eti(|uette and politeness, \ was received at lie Xou with decided discourtesv. Having sent i f- CONVICT ESTABLISHMENT ON ILE NOU. 227 iu my card to the .governor, topfellior with a letter of intro- duction from the Italian Vice-Consul, I received a message from him to say that he was reposing and could not see me, hut that I might be taken round by a warder. This, how- ever, was soon proved to be absolutely untrue, for almost directly afterwards I saw him starting for Noumea with some friends, lie took no notice whatever of me, and did not even raise his hat. Perhaj)S his was a case of evil com- munications corrupting good manners, for only the worst class of convicts were confined on He Xou. I must confers that the warder who was told oil' to escort me proved him- self an excellent guide, and I was greatly interested in all that I saw. The whole estaljlishment appeared to be thoroughly well managed. The cells, kitcliens, workshops, and exercise - yards were kept scrupulously clean. The prisoners were divided into classes, according to their con- duct and beliaviour. The higher classes were allowed con- siderable privileges, such as living and sleeping in common rooms; they were also ponnitteil to smoke. Those in the lowest classes wore chains and were contined in solitary cells. The prisoners work at the various trades to which they have been accustomed l)efore their conviction ; their working hours being from 4 a.m. to 4 P.M., with short inter- vals for meals. The money earned from their labour is emi)loyed to lessen the expenses of their keep. Formerly most of the European convicts wore sent to Cayenne, but owing to the unhealthy nature of tlie chmate this arrange- ment has been changed for some few years, and now the great majority of French convicts are sent to Xew Caledonia. Those who receive sentences of seven years or mider are per- mitted to return to France after having resided on the island for three years beyond the expiration of tlunr term. Men with longer sentences are kept on the island for the rest of their lives, even after their discharge from prison. We were shown three men who were at the time lying under sentence n 1 }■ i ^iii 1 r Wl fl-ti iiiU'rii M Kit i ' ^^m ih 228 CONDEMNED CTJMINALS. M' of deatli. Tlie first liad wounded the prison doctor, with intent to mnrder ; the second liad actually killed a warder : and the third had been condemned for contempt of court, for taking off his boot and hurling it at the president's liead. I was told, however, that in all probability this man would be reprieved; the other two being certain to be executed. Before their sentences could be carried into effect, however, they had to be confirmed by the I'resident of the llepublic. Prisoners iUCHuHiii; execution in the penal establishment, lie A'on. The executions take }»lace in tlic prison and in the presence of all the convicts. I s])oke to tlie man who had wounded the prison doctor, and it was curious and touching to observe the great affection which he displayed towards a tame sparrow which occupied his cell. The following day was Sunday, and in the evening the convict band played in the sipuire, most of the rank, beauty, and fashion of Xoumea being present. On Monday \ went on shore to see the Director of the EXORBITANT PILOTAGE. 229 the Interior to claim oxemptiou from harbour-dues. The captain of the port liad sent us in u bill, treating us on the scale of a merchant-ship. Owing to our yacht being the iirst that had ever visited Noumea the authorities appeared to be in doubt as to our exact status ; but after interviewing Mr L. the British Consul and myself, the Director decreed that we were to be treated in all respects as an luiglish man-of-war. The result of which would be that we should pay no dues, and only lialf-pilutage. The pilot, however, when 1 settled up with him next morning, declined altogether to recognise the order of the Director of the Interior, and ins. sted that I nuist pay in full, rpon isulting ^Iv L., we detei nined to apply at once to the Director himself, but unfortunately on our arrival at his oiHce we found it closed. 1 had made all arrangemenls for leaving at once, and therefore by Mr L.'s advice, and in order to avoid detention, I iDaid the whole sum of nsoney claimed, leaving it to him to get the proper portion refunded if possible. V>y a quarter to two in the afternoon we had weighed anchor. A strong breeze was against us, and we had to beat the whole way out, and it was not until "> p.m. that the pilot left us. The pilots in Ivoumea had formed a syndicate of their own, and the authorities did not appear to have much control over them. Our shorter way would have been through the llavanna passage, but the pilotage through this would have amounted to an exceedingly large sum ; even through the iiulari ])assage I had to pay £14, 12s., which seemed to me extremely exorbitant. On the whole our week's sojourn at Noumea had been thoroughly enjoyable, all the more so on .."count of the kindness and hospitality of jMr and ]Mrs L., and of the balmy loveliness of the weather. Wc were now bound for Erromango Ish nd in the New Hebrides, which was barely 400 miles distant. The wind, however, was very light during ! U ! ): J Ml liilf u^ 230 EltUOMANGO ISLAND. tlie greater part of tlie passage, and we did not run more than 80 miles a-day on an average. On Thursday, Xovemher 8, we sighted the He des Tins at eight o'clock in the morning, and at noon next day we were altreast of Mare Island, one of the Loyalty grouj). AVe did nol, however, pass within !."> miles of it, and therefore we were not able to see very much of its appearance. It seemed, however, moderately high, and thickly wooded. At one o'clock in the afternoon on Saturday, Xov('nd)er 10, we siglited the island of Tanna, whicli N\as much over- hung with clouds. At 4.30 I'M. we arrived in Dilhni Hay, Erromango Lsland, dropping anchor at a (puirter to six in seven fathoms of water. The ])ay, though open to westerly winds, was at that season of the year perfectly sufe. Its situation was romantic and pretty, a well-\sooded ^ alley with a river llowins'' through it f(n'nunL!' an exec 'dinsilv cll'ective background. On going ashore I was met I)y ]Mr II., the I'resbyterian missionary, who was stationed there, and who kindly took me up to his house, where I was introduced to his wife. He himself was a Canadian liy birth, but had been on the island tVir seventeen years. His house was comfortable and of very fair size, standing in a neat little garden alongside the church. The latter was a small wooden building, in which was a tablet stating that it was erected in memory of live missionaries who had been murdered on the island. These were ^lessrs AVilliams and Harris, who were killed in 18;10 ; a Mr Gordon, nuirdered some years later ; and a second 'Slv (Jordon, who, together with his wife, was treacherously killed in 1870. We attended a service at this church the ftillowing day, being Sunday. The service began at ten o'clock, the natives trooping in from the village to church — the men and women being all decently dressed, though many of the latter pre- sented a grotesque appearance, owing to their wearing on AN INTERESTING SERVICE. 231 the top of tlieir sliiny black heads common Englisli straw hats decorated witli tlie clieapost and most gaudy artificial flowers. It seems a great pity that the missionaries should ^^^^Bffljy^Hr^v^JTA T^i^^fftMMwnMwTJMB^^^M^MHW litf^ .S^KS/SjuBSuSm^^-^ ^^r *'' (^ittuH^E^^^^^I V^K' S^ ' i^i»^9IH^HPwMi^^H£^^> r '' ^^'^r'^ aP^ ^■'i iA Miisioii station, iJillcn Hay, Jinviiiaiii^o Island . encourage these poor natives to jmrchase and wear such incon''ruous and absurd articles of clothing. The service was comkicted in the native language ; tlie people seemed to be very reverent and to pay great attention. The hymns were sung with much spirit. Part of the New Testament has been translated, and many of the natives have learned to read ; but the missionaries have one great difficulty to contend with, in that the language is different on every island of the group. All the islands belonging to the Xew Hebrides are of volcanic origin, many of the volcanoes being still active. The highest and principal of these is oOOO feet above the sea, and is called Lopevi. This group of islands was formerly the centre of the sandal- wood and hdjour trade, or slave trade as the latter might be called, since greater atrocities never were inflicted on human beings than these unfortunate natives were subjected to. ,,j , I M ■ 5: w h :^U. 2.S2 MISSION LIFE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES. The consequence naturally has been tliat it was a long time before they cmiUl l»e inthK-t'd to regard any white man as other than a natunil enemv, and it is to this fact that such sad and calaniitons disasters must lie attributed as the mur- ders of liishop I'atcrson, Commodore Goodenough, and many other excellent and self-sacrilicing missionaries. The weather was very hot during our visit, and after church we thoroughly enjoyed a stroll along the banks of the river, through a beautifully shady path on the outskirts of the village. The houses of the latter were rudely built of canes and grass, most of them being oblong in shape and open at one end, with a little wooden palisade in front. The po])ulation altogether was about 2000, of which 1000 were Christians, the great majority of the remaiiider being friendly though heathen. The natives in the immediate neighbourhood of the mission attended school regularly, and most of them had been taught by Mr K. to read and write. Their great religion appeared to be that of the extremely punctilious observance of Sunday, which was kept with the most Sabbatarian strictness, not the slightest kind of work being done upon that day. This, no doubt, was owing to the Presbyterian influence of the missionaries, of whom there were altogether sixteen in ilie Xew Hebrides supported by the Australian Mission Society. They each receive £170 a- year fixed income, and an allowance of £10 for each child. JNIr II. had certainly contrived upon his income to make him- self very comfortable in the seventeen years he had been there. His garden was well stocked with English vetjetables and vines ; pine-apples and other semi-tropical articles of produce were growing in healthy luxuriance. He had, be- sides, a stable, poultry-yard, and a piggery. The only article of export on the island was arrowroot, which was growing wild in great aljundance. The natives, however, will not take the trouble to cultivate it, though, from what I was informed, it would well remunerate them to do so. I CURIO-HUNTIXG. 233 I tried lo obtain some curios whilst I was on the island, but tlie only tilings which T could find were some very ordi- nary wooden spears, bamboo combs, and liows and airows ; the last were small and li^ht compared with those which I had seen elsewhere. I purchased a considerable number of them. At G P.M. on the 12th we got under way, after having bid adieu to Mr and ]\[rs If., wlio had lunched with us on board tlie yaclit. The former gave me some handsome and valu- able articles of curiosity, and each day during our stay he sent off to the yacht fresh milk and delicious pine-apples, besides this, he took a great deal of trouble to proctire us live stock, and, indeed, both he and his wife showed the greatest kindness to every one on board. AVe had u fair breeze, an' went along through the night at an average of fully six knots an hour. t 1:^ N m i5lr' . «•„ I ,11 ill tl :'J ■: I' r^r 234 CIIAI'TKI! XXIV. SANliWIi II (111 KI'ATK ISLAND A I'lNK UAIUioLU M;\V lIKUIiUiKS Cdll'i:!'; l'ltnTKCi'If)N" ISLAM) SCAliCITV Ol' (iKNUIXIO (TlilOS MAI.MCOI.I.O ISLAMi A NATIVi; VII. LACK — A riilMrilVK MnjiK (iK STIilKINd I'lltK HKMAINS Ol' PHALLIC WOHSIIir Tlli; SIIH'- cook's hcauk — KsiMurru saxto island — toxgoa — cinicLs AHlioWS a STIfAXCK CUSTOM HAT-SHOOTIXG OUT AT SKA ACAIX A STUOXU c;ALK TIIK HANKS ISLAXDS I'OKT I'A ITKSOX — A TKUIill'IC STORM — TIIK IMUCK OK A I'UJ. Kuirmlxf 1, '-„'.',, ISSS. I i At ilaybroak we si^lited Saiidwicli Island, wliicli is also known by the name of Efato. Wo arrived and anchored in Havanna harbour at 1 r.M. This was on Tuesday, Xoveni- l)er 1;'. As we sailed up to our anchorage we were regaled with Ix'autiful scenery, the land on cacli side being tliick- ly wooded, and moderately high. The distance from the entrance of the Sound to the settlement was upwards of five miles, and on our way we passed several native villages on both sides of the bay. The harbour is perliaps the best and finest in all the AVestern Pacific, and steamers to and from Xew Caledonia and Australia call here occaKionally. The settlement is the principal one in the grouj) of the New l[(>brides, though it only boasts of three European houses. A certain Captain M., to whom ^Mr K. had given me a letter of introduction, was the principal resident here. He was formerly in tl- sandal- wood trade, but now kept a ( > COKFKK CULTIVATION. 235 store, nnd was said to liavo ainassod u considtTiibU' fortune. I spent the greater part of an afternoon at his house, and had a most interesting and instructive eonversation with luni. He informed me tliat coll'ee grew in great jx-rfection on the ishmd, and connnanded a higli price in tlie Australian market. It was considered to he superior to CeyU)n cofree, and, in hi.s opinion, it would pay any man to estahlish a plantation there. The climate, however, was very unfavour- ahle, being notorious lor fever. The natives were fairly civilised, some of them wearing a certain amount of clothing. They were all of tlu! true Papuan type, perfectly black, and with woolly hair. I nuist say that I thought somi^ of the old women whom I. saw as ugly and revolting specimens of the human race as could anywhere be found. On leaving Captain M.'s house I was kindly presented by him \vith a bow, two spears, and a quantity of poisoned arrows, lie pointed out to me the place where the French camp stood during the short time they occupied the Xew Hebrides. A small wooden fort which they then erected was still visible, and in good preservation. IJesides his store, there was another belonging to the Xew Hebrides Company. On White Sand Point was a mission station belonging to the Free Church of Scotland, but at the time of my visit there was no minister residing there. In the evening some of my men went out with the seine, and caught about three stone of good-sized fish. Tt is not, however, very safe to eat them here, as several varieties are poisonous. They should be exanuned by some native who understands them before they arc cooked and eaten. On the following morning, having visited the mission village on a curio-hunting expedition, which, however, was extremely unsuccessful, I crossed the Sound, and landed near a large village on Protection Island. The houses were curiously constructed, being dome-shaped, and rudely built pi 1 j1 M Itil h \- i^:^- , •..*'! I i ! 1 1 1'; i; 1 1^ 1 I 1 236 MALLICOLLO ISLAND. of fiiiK! ami riiiidamis leaves, (^wiiiiif to there beini,' !io (•liiniiieys, I'verytliiii,!^ inside was black with smoke. I obtained a coii))le of wooden combs, and two very ordinary' dubs, but nothing else of any value could I find. The fact is, that as the natives l)ecome iuore civilised they no longer make the weapnr.v and other prinutive articles whicli they \\s\.'\ in the old urchased a couple of turkeys and a few fowls, which were all the live stock that we could gel, we got under way at ."i.:tO p.m. cit raitfr for Mallicollo Islaiul. JSeing favoured with a good lirei'ze all through the night, we found ourselves at tlaybrt'ak next morning between the islands of Ambrym ami ]\Iailicollo. The latter is much more densely wooded than eillu'r KiTomango or Sandwich; a thick forest descended to within a few Viirds of th'j beach. We anchored in Sail Sun liay at !) a.m. .opposite the iJatholic Mission station. The ])riest in charge of this was a polished and agreeable Frenchman, upon whom 1 called immediately after landing. 1 found him engaged in building a little chapel and school- hoUKc, with the aid of a carpenter whom he had hired from Noumea. He v.as the iirst missionary who had settled on this island, and had only been there lift' u months. He candidl}' acknowledged that uji to that time he had made no progress whatever in his missionary eil'orts, anvcr, he and his wife had contrived to keej) on vi'ry anucablc terms with them; and nnder his escort J paid a visit to on(! of the native villages. We beached the b -at midway between the Catholic and Protestant stations; and after a short scramble throngh the woods we reached a village consisting of about half-a-do/en honses, roughly built of canes and grass, oblong in sha[)e, and with sloping roofs. The interiors, like those 1 had seen before, were black with soot, the rooms being about six feet high. At the door of the principal houses '-t. f ' ( 2:58 JiKMAINS (»1- I'HALLIC WOR.SHII'. I! M ! 1 u\ »to«)(l two fi«^'nn!S ii))out I'mir fet't liigli, cut out of tin; iriiiik of fill' lr(!(;-f(;ni, tlioir ln-iids carveil roughly to reiirt'seiil a liiiiiian face, ami vudely imiIuI'mI with vcniiilioii and liliir. Tlicso were tiic housi-'hold ,il,'o(1s, or tutelary .i^nuinlians ; in fact, the li/fiH and jiniafr^ of the family. The wlu)lc' village, iudecid, consisted of one family; it heinn' the custom on the island for i-acli family to dwid! apart at some little distance from llicir ncinhhnurs. The husband li\es in one hut iy himself, and his \\ivt's and. family dwell around him. The dress of the natives is simple ami scanty in tlie extreme, the women wearing' a frii:ned ^rass mat ahout six inches wide round the waist. Curiosities ai>])eared to ije scarce aai ouii'st tlicm, and the ))Cople seemed loath to part even with luc few things which We saw that took our fancy, I manaiied, however, to secure an (exceedingly liaiulsonu,' cluh and a curious dancing-mask. Whilst in(juiring for the curios, we came across a i\u.\ who was engaged in striking tire hy the friction or two sticks, an operation which, though I had frc(iuentl)' heard ol it, I had never witnessed before. J''rom certain rudely carved imidements which wt-re mysteriously shown to us, it i.- eviilent that the natives of the New Hebrides indulged in the remnants of some ancient phallic worship. One curious c ustom amongst them is, that no woman is allowed to set her feet njion certain paths which are specially reserved for men. So siringent is this regulation amongst the natives, that .Mrs L., who wrs in- advertently walking u[)on ime of these paths a few days before our visit, was tired at b}' a native, but fortunately escaped any injury. They possess rudt; temples, one of which we saw containing six ligures aliout lo feet high, with their faces painted vermilion ami while. Xciii' these ligures stood some gods carvi'tl tn\{ of a hollow log, forming drums which are Iteaien with sti. • 'X)n various occasions. Every man whom we met was armed, some with bows and ^ ,,f tlu; trunk I) iu\)n'!^enl a [Oil iiiitl \<\ni'. iu nil the litUe lUstiUR-e 111 .nic hut hy ind him. The 1 thf rxli'fuie, ouL six inches them, anil the w thinij;s which ,vcYCV, to secure i (l;incin;j;-mask. ross a nu>' who 1 .jf two sUcl's, heard oL it. T ts which wer(! t the natives ol' of some ancient .•st them is, that u certain paths strin;4ent is tins L., who wrs in- ihs 11 lew days hut fortunately tem]>les, one of ,ut 15 feet hiyh, liite. Near these )!low log, forming various occasions. .X' with bows and I I y. o 1 i':": !M.it 1; r''- I Ml '\ : V' \ ■i: f h 1: r I ^ ij r 11 " .■ i;i mf i £i;Ik i m\ :i til i m^ w M' ll I 11 I THK 8Hir-l«>0K.S SCAHK. 2od ])oison('(l ano\v><, others witli Sniilcr carbiiu's, wliirli wcic in every instaiicL'. Inadt'il. Two nalivcs took an unpleasantly ^ri'al fancy to our ship's cook, wiio had acconipanit'tl us, and wen'. e.\ceodin,L;ly ini]»ortuiuite in their invitations that he should remain with them. He \va> a small man hut very plump, and the attention which they displayed to him not ui ai'ally considerahly alarmi'd him, more especially when, at'tei' he luul politely decliiu'd their invitation, they ]irocee(led to seize lioM of him hy his aims. The situiition was undouhtedly enihnrrassinir, to say tiie least of it ; hut wi^ contrivt'd to calm their importunities hy telling liicm that he was ol)liL;ed to return to rh<' .-hip upon husiness. li\it that on the morrow he would avail himself of their kind invitation. This was the cook's first visit on a savage island , I should imagine that some lenL;th of time wiadd elapse ')efore he rejteats the experiment. On leavin,ii the vili,.,^e 1 paid a visit to hotli the missions in the midst of a considerahle downfall of rain. At half-past five I rowed hack to the vacht, havint,' heen exceedingly interested in the little that I had seen of MallicoUo, which, hesides hein.i,' one of the largest islands in the ^Toup, was the first that 1 had yet seen where the natives .still retained their ori<;inal savage state mitainted l)y the veneer of modern civilisation. At a ([uarter-past seven next morning, Xovemher 10, we weighed anchttr and put out tcj sea. The vvind at first was light, hut gradually increased as the day wore on. Ahout an hour after starting we sighted the .mission ves.sel J)ays]iring at some eonsideral'le distance fro;u us, making for Sail Sun J'ay. Heavj' rain acconi])anied hy sharp squalls and thick weather came on ahout hiur in thf^ afternoon when we were of!" Pentecost Island: hut notwithstanding this, w(! managed to arrive and anchored safely ut 'J'ongoa in Ks])iritu Santo Island by six o'clt»ck. The harbour at Tongoa i.s formed hy a number (»f sm. '1 islands, which, sheltering one another, form a good and 11: ( ' C- f u : i: !^ f I 240 KSI'IUrri: S.\NT(» ISLAND. coimiiodious port. Soon after ancliorini^ I liuidoil iuid called on the \Ui\'. Mr A., a l're.s])yterian missionary, who lives on one of the islands which form tlu^ harhnur. Ills mission at tliis particular place had not Ijeen establisheii more tlian sixteen months; hut he had reside 'i' ff :|: ' ■ ,i ' i 'h i ^ u. ;1 > H : I ' i I i|i ' 1 s ! m ' A CURIOrs CUSTOM. 241 tviiL', willi \V()(tllv hair like n("4nii's. In (lie aiU'iiiodn I visited another village on the inaiiilaiid ; l)iit here a^ain there was very little to he ' % 1 ' \ ! MM 242 THE 15ANKS ISLANDS. ■ Santo is the lar.u'est island in tho Xow Frobridos, measuring,' 75 miles Ion;; and 40 miles broad. It was discoverL'd by (^uiros in IGDG, wlm t^ave it tlu; namo of Australia tlel Kspiritu Santo, bwaust* he ,su|»iiosed it to liavu been tliu lon«i Honj^bt Tcna Au>tralis. The inti;iior of the country has never yet been jtenetrated by \vliit(; men, but it is jfcnerally believed to be very thickly poimlateil with sava,ye tribes. The natives of tho New Hebrides cairy on extensive manu- factures of coarse pottery, as also do those of Fiji and New Caledonia. The next day. Sunday, was lhoroujj;hly wet, and I diy daybreak we were running along with a strong fair wind. Shortly befon' noon we sighted the r»anks Islands, and came to anchor in Xeusa I>ay, Port I'atteson, Vanua Lava Island, at (i.lo P.M. Thursday, Xovemlier 22, was a ])ouring wet day, and it was almost impossible to think of doing anything. During i A TKIfHIKic STolt.M. 243 !i toinpnniry lull in tin- wi'atlicr, Ih'wcvov, about cloven (•'dock ill \hv. luoniiiit,', we went ashore, and walked alinut the beaeh to discover if i)().«sil)lc s(»ni(^ .si<,'ns of life. \Vu saw nothing,', however, which could indicate tht^ iMnxiniity of natives; and the bush being excceilinj^dy thick, almost down to the very edge of the bay, it was (juite impracticable to penetrate iidand. We noticed several small streams of water llowing into the bay, and across the mouth of every one of them was a sandy bar, on which the sea was breaking. To procure watca- a boat would therefon^ have to lie a consitlerable way oil', and a long hose would be re([uired. After lunch two canoes eanie oil" to the yacht from tlu^ opposite side of the bay. The natives, wlio brought some shells for barter, were evidently of an entirely dill'erent race from those in the New Hebrides. They were far better looking, and of a higher type, besides being nnich lighter in colour. Two of them spoke a few words of Knglish. Their dress was simply a plain loin-cloth. The next two days we were visited by a terrific storm. ]Jain came down in torrents almost witlwmt intermission, and from time to time violent sijualls set in, accompanied by thunder and lightning. The Hashes were almost continuous, and the whole landscape around was vi\ idly lit up by them. r>y daybreak on Saturday, November 24, the weather had moderated considerably, and the rain and lightinng liatl ceased. As soon as we came up on deck we noticed that the shore and bay presented a remarkable api)earance, being covered everywhere with driftwood, and giving evidence of the enormous havoc which had been wrought by the storm. Several canoes were floating about the bay bottom upmost. The weather still looked more or less threatening, and we therefore deemed it more prudent to remain where we were for another day. In the afternoon I went in the lifeboat to visit a village j"u the south of the bay. This contained about a IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3^ 1.0 I.I ^^ Ilia 1112.5 .« 1122 iitt 2.2 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 „ 4" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^^ ^V \\ <^^ t^%. ^:^ v-\ <^ ^ ,».<■ i? (/j W^ wammmmmmmmmmmm i ' t w i ! li 244 THE PRICE OF A PIG. dozen houses, of a rather hetter description than those in the New Hebrides, and the natives were much more friendly and amenable to intercourse. In the middle of tlie village were two conspicuous objects. They were large oblong platforms, built of earth and faced with stone, standing about four feet high. Upon these platforms were clustered a great number of old wooden figures, not unlike those gods which we had seen at Mallicollo. Here, however, it was evident that no reverence was paid to them, for they were decaying and neglected. The platforms appeared to be the burial-places of chiefs, so far as I could gather from the little English that a few of the natives spoke. They were keenly alive to barter and purchase, and even offered a few articles which they possessed for tobacco, pipes, and calico. There was, however, scarcely anything worth taking away, though I got some wooden knives, an old carved bowl, and a bow. I also purchased a pig, for which I paid three coloured handkerchiefs and a threepenny knife. The Banks Islands are in Bishop Selwyn's Diocese, and a missionary resides on the island of Mota. m imi 5 f . nil 245 i: '' 'HI CHAPTER XXV. \ SANTA CRUZ— A DEAD CALM CAXOE.S, COSTUMES, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES — VOLCANO ISLAND A CURIOUS EXPERIENCE CARLISLE BAY SCENE OF MURDER OF COMMODORE GOOD- ENOUGH HIS MONUMtNT— PICTURESQUE SCENERY A RELIC OF THE STONE AGE FLYING-FOXES EVIL REPUTATION OF THE NATIVES DEPARTURE FROM SANTA CRUZ VIOLENT SQUALLS APAMAMA ISLAND FEARS OF TYPHOON AVE CHANGE OUR COURSE FOR HONOLULU A MISERABLE DAY CONTINUED BAD WEATHER CHRISTMAS-DAY ON THE PACIFIC ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU OLD FRIENDS END OF YEAR 1888. November 2o-D-:ccmhcr 31, ISSS. ' ,rt Sunday, November 25, was a much finer day, and soon after sunrise we got under way. After passing close to the islands of Mota and Saddle, we sighted in the afternoon Bligh Island, but we were too far ott' to see much of it. There was a heavy swell on all day, no doubt the remnant of the late storm. We rolled horribly, and in the evening, having stowed all fore and aft canvas, we ran along under the square sail alone. At five o'clock on Monday afternoon we sighted Vanikoro, where La Perouse was lost in 1788, and early on the morning of Tuesday, November 27, the island of Santa Cruz. By 2 P.M. we were not more than five miles away from it, and we could distinctly discern many features in the landscape. The island was pleasant-looking, and densely wooded. In hHf! I : u ..- -. -.. mm 24G SANTA CRUZ. ii'i ! I n the afternoon the wind dropped to a dead cahn, and for the remainder of tlie day and during the following night we drifted about without a breath of air. About three o'clock on Tuesdivy afternoon a vast crowd of canoes came off to us from the island with curiosities for barter. They seemed to come from all directions, and our ship was now completely surrounded by them. Tliese canoes were of the usual type, but far more neatly built than those we had lately seen, most of them being lime-washed inside and provided with well-carved paddles. The natives were a stalwart but exceedingly wild-looking race. In each canoe were two men armed with formidable- looking bows and arrows. All of them wore heavy tortoise- shell pendants in their ears and rings in their noses, whilst around their arms were many mother-of-pearl bangles. I particularly noticed that their teeth were decayed, and in this respect they were an absolute exception to all the various tribes of natives which we had yet seen in the Pacific. This is probably to be accounted for by the practice, in which they indulge freely, of chewing betel-leaf, their gums being dyed a deep red from the same cause. Their dress consisted of a waist-cloth l^anging down in front. They brought with them many interesting objects for barter, amongst which were model canoes, elaborately carved clubs, some beautifully con- structed bows and arrows, tappa, wooden bowls, and many other things too numerous to mention. They refused even to look at money in exchange for them, and tliey did not even seem to understand what it was. Tobacco, pipes, cal- ico, and knives were the objects which they most required. A pretty brisk business was carried on with them by all on board, and at six o'clock they returned to their homes evi- dently well satisfied with the afternoon's work. Next morning on going on deck 1 found we were lying becalmed off Volcano Island. As its name implies, this is an active volcano, rising abruptly from the sea in the shape of a ^m VOLCANO ISLAND. 247 cone to a height of 2200 feet. The top was enveloped in vapour and smoke, but a well-wooded vegetation reached from its base almost half-way up its sides. Several canoes came off again with similar articles for barter as those which we '1 ll'il f '1 w SANTA CRUZ. A, Loom with mat in process of manufacture. B, Dancing-club. C, Arrow. D, Vi'ooden disli. E, Gourd for holding lime. had seen the day before. One of tlie men informed us that he was a native teacher under IJishop Selwyn ; but he spoke very little English, and we could scarcely understand what he said. During the following night we drifted considerably astern. .. filviji: i\ ,11 I': f . ! ■i-^. ■ < I Si I! ill F V 248 MONUMENT TO COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. and the next morning we were lying beciilmecl offTrevan- nion Bay. The dead calm lasted throughout that day, and tlie consequence was tliat we had now been undergoing the curious experience of being for tlu'ee whole days witliin sight of our anchorage and yet being quite unable to reach it. "We were again surrounded by canoes all through that day. Next morning we were at last favoured by a fair breeze, and by half-past nine we had arrived off the entrance to Car- lisle Bay. We found a clear passage, though no plan exists of the anchorage, and we anchored in 13 fathoms, opposite a village, at half-past ten in the morning. The harbour, wliich is an excellent one, is virtually a large lagoon sur- rounded and protected by reefs. Tlie entrance is through a channel wide and deep enough for a large ship, and there is plenty of room inside for one to lie at anchor. I landed at eleven, though with some precautions, for the natives of this island bear an evil reputation for violence and treachery. It wae here, as every one knows, that Commodore Good- enough was murdered by poisoned arrows, and on a prom- inent position in the village facing the bay stood an iron cross with the following inscription : — En ilHcmoro cf JAMES ERNEST GOODENOUGH, CoMMonouE R.N., Died August 25, 1875. " If I be lifted up from the earth, I will draw all men unto me." The cross and its pedestal were in perfect order. The natives offered me a most friendly welcome, invited me into their houses, spreading mats for me to sit upon, and presenting me with cocoa-nuts and bananas. Their abodes were far superior in their construction to those in the New Hebrides and Banks Islands. They were larger, lighter, and cleaner, and each one was surrounded by a ti^- A RELIC OF THE STONE AGE. 249 strong stone wall, wliicli was evidently intended for purposes of defence. The village was plentifully supplied with water from two excellent streams in the neighbourhood. I spent the afternoon in exploring the harbour in the lifeboat. We first rowed to the head of the lagoon, which was about a mile from the entrance. Tlie scenery here was picturesque in the extreme, the hills on each side being thickly clothed with dense forest, whilst mangroves lined the sides of the quiet lagoon. Tt much reminded me of tlie fJambia river on the west coast of Africa. We landed close to the only other village that lay on the shore of the harbour, and which contained about lialf- a-dozen houses similar to those which we had seen in the former village. The inhabitants, too, were equally hospi- table, though they evidently entertained a very strong objec- tion to our approaching the huts which were set apart for the women. After having finished my explorations of the harbour, I paid a second visit to the village where I had landed in the morning, and here I made several purchases, amongst them being a plump little pig, for which I paid six col- oured handkerchiefs, two clay pipes, and one plug of to- bacco. I also succeeded in obtaining some very handsome ornaments, which were apparently worn only by the chiefs and people of consequence. These were made of a white shell, beautifully polished, of circular shape, and about six inches in diameter. On the front was a varied fretwork pattern in tortoise-shell. These ornaments were worn rouiid the neck by a necklace of small shells closely strung together, and all ground dov u lo the same size. One curious object attracted my view : it was a man hollowing out a canoe with a stone adze. This was an interesting proof of the primitive simplicity of the natives, who had not yet got beyond the stone age. The people were keen traders, and each bargain took a considerable time before it was concluded, as a loi^g 2 I It-: I' 250 WEAPONS, ETC. I ! I'; WEAPONS, ETC., FROM NEW HEBRIDES AND CARO- LINE ISLANDS. A, Bow, Erromango, New Heb- rides. B, Row, Espiritu Santo, do. C, Row, Mallicollo, do. D, Arrows, New Hebrides. E, Arrow tipped with a shell for killing birds, do. ..1 F, Shell money, Carolines. G, Shell hatchet, do. II, Spoon, New Hebrides. Carolines. , do. Hebrides. EVIL REPUTATION OF THE NATIVES. 251 consultation invariably took place between the venilor and the bystanders. Some of the most interesting things which I purcliased were curious fishing-lines with small tortoise- shell hooks, which appeared to nie to be quite unique. Whilst the l)argaiaing operations were going on, I induced some of the natives to lire their arrows at a mark, as I ex- pected to see considerable skill displayed. I was much dis- appointed, for not one of them succeeded in hitting the straw hat which I placed on a tree about five feet above the ground, and some 20 yards off from where tliey stood. After returning to tlie yacht I went out with my gun to try and shoot some pigeons, having seen these birds in great abundance. I did not, however, get a chance at any ; but instead, I shot two flying-foxes, which were strange-looking animals, like enormous bats, and with heads closely resem- bling that of ii black and tan toy-terrier. They are eaten by the natives, who consider them to be very excellent food. Very little is known about this island, from the fact of so few traders visiting it, owing to the bad reputation which the natives bear. I myself was strongly urged by Captain P. of H.jNI.S. Lizard not to venture upon the island, but I must confeHs that I found the natives exceedingly civil in their treatment of me. Tliere is no doubt, however, that they are the most treacherous and dangerous savages in the Pacific ; and I believe that I owed my reception to the sight of our machine-guns, from which they took us for a man-of-war schooner. IMendana attempted to found a colony here in 1595, but owing to the savagery of the natives it soon came to grief. I should certainly not recommend any one in an unarmed vessel to venture near their port. A crowd of savages came on board next morning, remain- ing there until we had weighed anchor and were some dis- tance outside the reef. The/ then jumped overboard, and swam ashore apparently without the slightest fear, although the sea all round was swarming with sharks. '* I I !r 1 I 11:1 I I ih 1 ', : I «: ' flil 252 VIOLENT SQUALLS. Our intention was to make for Drunnnond Islanil in tlie Crilbcrt yroup, nearly 800 miles due north of us ; but after run- ning well for four days, during wliich the weather was fear- fully hot, we found ourselves likely to fall short of provisions, and we therefore determined to make for Apamama Island, where we were more likely to be able to procure what we wanted. On Thursday, December 6, 600 miles out from Santa Cruz and 250 from Apumama, we were struck at 2 p.m. by a sud- den and violent squall, which rent our main-sail almost in two. The rain came down in tropical torrents, and when darkness set in the weather looked most unpromising. All through the night, and early next day, we were visited by a succession of violent squalls, many of which were of hurricane force. As the day wore on, however, the weather improved and the evening was fairly fine. AVe were now rapidly approaching Apamama Island, and by noon on Saturday, December 8, we were only oG miles distant from it. The sky soon afterwards became quite black to windward, and a heavy sen v^-as rolling up. There were indeed all the usual signs of a coming typhoon ; and as we could only obtain an indii'lerent observation, we put about in order to avoid running too close to the island. Apamama, like many other islands in this part of the Pacific, is simply formed of coral-reefs, which under most favourable circumstances can only be seen about five miles ofl', and the neighbourhood of which, on a dark stormy night like that which was closing around us, is beyond measure dangerous. We therefore determined to put right about, and steer our course for Honolulu, from which we were distant a little more than 2000 miles. For the next two days the weather continued dull, close, and showery, with a strong breeze dead aft, and the sea run- ning high, and causing us to roll and tumble about in the most disagreeable manner. w^. CHRISTMAS-DAY ON THE PACIFIC. 253 ^londny, December 10, was pcrliaps on tho whole tlio most miserable day that we had spent since Icavinf,' England. During a sqnall the square sail boom carried away and broke clean in two. Soon after sunset, however, the wind came abeam, and the evening turned out fine. Tlie sun shone briglitly on tlie following day, and tlie air was con- siderably cooler than it had been for a long time past. We recrossed the 180th parallel on this tiay, and thus we gained a day, making up for the one which we had lost before. The wind continued dead ahead for the next fo.ty-eight hours, tliough tlie weather was more or less fine. On Thursday, tlie 18th, tlie rain came down in torrents, and the wind was blowing hard from tlie north-east. A heavy sea was running during the wliole forenoon ; but shortly after twelve the wind dropped, and under the action of Jie steady rain the sea soon became calm. Curiously enough, through- out all the bad weather which we experienced during these few days, the barometer persistently remained high and steady. "We were now beating against the N.E. trade-winds, with brisk gales blowing in our faces, the result being as un- comfortable as one can well imagine. It was not till Tuesday, December 18, that the weather became at all endurable — the air on that day being very cool and pleasant. So we continued on our course, tacking and beating up to windward as best we might, until Christmas-day, when our observations at noon showed that we were still 640 miles distant from Honolulu. The sea on that day went down considerably, and the weather was calm and pleas- ant and warm. It could not, however, be said that we were able to indulge in much Christmas fare ; for we had run very short of fresh provisions, and the seamen had tasted nothing but salt food for many days past. How- ever, I cheered them up by promising to give them a real '> '^'i iii i «i I! 1 i .) j I I! m. i 1 ' v^'' li;|: j II' '■■ 1 J , |i i 1 1 1. 1 254 AIUIIVAL AT HONOLULU. good dinner wlicn wo reached ironolulu. Wo manufactured a pluni-puddlnj^', wliieli it must bo confessed was Init a feeble imitation of the real article, as it had to bo made witliout egf^'S or suet. lIowoN'er, every one on board seemed deter- mined to make tlie best of it, and in the evenini^' the men made merry with a couple of bottles of wliisky whicli 1 provided for them, drinkinf^' lustily, and with good spirits, to the health of their sweethearts and wives at home. Nothing worthy of special record occurred for the next five days, but at daybreak on Sunday, December oO, we sighted the island of Niiliau. The wirid was now fair, and we sped along, sighting in the afternoon the island of Oahu. This we were able to discern very plainly, and. it presented from the sea a most barren aspect — wild rugged clifls rising precipi- tously to a height of over 3000 feet. At 8 P.M. we sighted the lighthouse which had been recently erected on Jiarber Point, and of wiiich no mention was made in our sailing directions. We conseouently mistook it for the light of Honolulu, and the result might have been serious, as a long and dangerous reef extended off it. A light breeze in the early dawn fell to a dead calm in the course of the forenoon, but, after lunch, a light air sprang up which carried us along to Honolulu. A pilot came olf, and took us inside the reef ; but wlien we were half-way through the passage the breeze completely died away, and we were compelled to drop our anchor. A tug shortly afterwards came off to us, accompanied by a boat, in which were some friends of Louis Stevenson who had mistaken our yacht for his vessel, the Casco. It appeared that he had been expected for some time past, and his friends seemed much disappointed when they discovered who we were. We finally anchored at five o'clock P.M., near our old friend the U.S.S. Alert, from which we had parted at Callao. H.]\I.S. Hyacinth and Cor- morant were also lying at anchor in the harbour, and a boat came off to us from the former, with a complimen- L'turcd IV'oble tliout • leter- meii lich I •its, to K\D OF YKAIl 188S. 255 tary me.ssa,!40 from tlio capliiiii, uiul oilers of any r('([ui.sito assistance. On goinji; asliore at lialf-past six we met two of tlie f)ilicors of tlie Alert, who ap^ieared to re('i])r((cat(' oiir pleasure on the renewal of our acquaintance. They acconipanicil us to the Hawaiian Hotel, which was the principal inn i; ^fono- lulu. The building was large aiul liandsonie, and stood in the nuddle of a pretty garden. We found the laTil d'hote was already finished, aiul we therefore repaired an excel- lent restr. iii.i.c, where we thoroughly enjoyed a capital din- ner which was all the more pidatal)le from the coinparativc ])rivations which we had lately l)een compelled to endure. On my return to tlie hotel I found the second mate wait- ing for me with tliree sacks of letters and newspapers. These had been awaiting our arrival at the Consulate, and the majority of them were old and out of date. At ten o'clock we returned on l)oard, and all of us sat on deck till midnight to see the old year out and the new year in. AVhisky was handed out to the men, and we all wished (.)ne another " A Hapjiy Now Year I " which was usiiered in amidst the ringing' of bells on shore and the Ijlowing of steam-whistles in the harbour. Thus ended 1888, during the twelve months of which we had sailed 10,781 nautical miles — the average daily run being thus 10(3.88 knots. The total time spent at sea had been one hundred and fifty-seven days three and a half hours. ]Many hindrances and drawbacks had occurred in the course of the year; but after i laking due allowance for all these disagreeables, we were able to look back upon a most interesting voyage, which had supplied us with many subjects of enjoyable reminiscences upon which to look back in the years to come. J i *\i 256 ni m ' \ 'i ! . 1 fe.r 1 i CHAPTER XXVI. THE SANDWICH ISLANDS — CIVILISATION AT HONOLULU NEW-YEAr's DAY A SUDDEN HURRICANE — WAIKIKI A DRAMATIC ENTER- TAINMENT TRIP ON ROARD THE KINAU JIY FELLOW-PAS- SENGERS AN AMUSING REGULATION AIAHUKONA — KAIWAIIHAE IIILO A PROFITABLE SUGAR-ilILL AN EXCURSION UNDER ADVERSE CIRCUMSTANCES VOLCANO HOUSE THE GREAT CRATER OF KILAUEA DISGRACEFUL PRACTICES A JIARVELLOUS SPEC- TACLE — RETURN TO HONOLULU. January 1-11, ISSO. The Sandwicli Islands were discovered l)y Cook in 1778, and were named by him after the Earl of Sandwich, who was at that time First Lord of the Admiralty. They are all of volcanic formation, and are twelve in number, four of which, however, are uninhabited. The total area included within the group is 6587 square miles. The population in 1888 amounted to 86,647, of which number 22,' 97 were Chinese, 19,618 Europeans and Americans, and the remainder natives. Each island was formerly independent, but the whole group was united into one kingdom in the earlier part of the nineteenth century under Kamehameha I., who died in 1819. The first missionaries arrived from the States during the reign of his successor, who abolished tahit and idolatry in 1820. His kingdom was taken under the joint protection of England, France, and the United States in 1844, its independence being guaranteed by those three iii ,U XE\V-YEARS AMATIO EXTEU- Y FELLOW-PAS- A — KAIWAIIIIAE :'TU{SIOX UXDER E GREAT CRATER IVELLOUS SPEC- IE' ■'•■||l'' I y i I ■ H ,, .;.H ii :ook in 1778, andwich, who They are all niber, four of area included population in 22/97 were the remainder :lent, but the lie earlier part I I., who died )ni the States shed tdoic and ider the joint ted States in r those three tif Sfcvl CIVILISATION AT HONOLULU. 257 Powers. The climate in the islands is remarkably pleasant, the mean annual temperature being 7o', and the average rainfall 38 inches per annum. The principal article of cul- tivation and export is sugar. A fair amount of trade is carried on in the islands, the total value of the exports in 1889 being £2,807,780, and the imports £1,087,758. Under the new constitution, which was granted to the kingdom in July 1887, a legislative system was formed consisting of two Houses, one called the House of Xobles and the other the House of liepresentatives. Members of both Houses are elected by popular suftrage, each House l)eing composed of twenty-four members. The Xubles are elected for six years and the liepresentatives for two. The press is well represented in Honolulu, there being two daily papers, one weekly, and four monthly periodicals in English ; four weeklies in Hawaiian, and two weeklies in I'ortuguese. Several benevolent societies and masonic lodges are in active operation ; and a fire brigade exists of great efficiency, and ecpiipped with all the best modern appliances. It is strange to find in the miu:t of the Pacific a city so handsome and so European in appearance as that of Hono- lulu. The streets are l)road, well paved, and clean ; the shops large, handsome, and well stocked with everything that one can require. The royal palace is a handsome and imposing edifice, and many of the private houses and villas are attrac- tive and commodious in appearance. The best of the houses in the town is that occupied by ^Ir V>., the banker. All the streets and most of the shops and houses are lit by electric light, and an admirable system of telephone is in operation, extending over the entire island. The harbour quays are solidly constructed, and very convenient '>iid spacious, and the depth of water is sufficient to allow of steamers up to 4000 tons burden, lying alongside the wharfs, to take in and discharge their cargoes. A marine railway runs the whole length of the docks and quays, and the harbour is supplied •2 K :l i| I'^^ij ) , if I' I I!: f, it i 1 > 258 A SUDDEN HURRICANE. with a cradle capable of taking up vessels of 1000 tons, liepairs of any kind and on any scale can be effected to ships and machinery, though I was given to understand that the rates are very expensive. From what I could see as I walked about the town, the American and Chinese element appeared largely to predominate in the population. Most of the wholesale business seemed to be in the hands of the Americans, whilst many large and handsome stores were owned by the Chinese, who, moreover, possessed almost all the traue in the poorer part of the town. As in many other places, the presence of the Chinese in Honolulu is by no means appreciated by the rest of the inhabitants, w^'O would l)y no means be sorry if the Government of tlie country were to issue an order prohibiting their residence there. The morning of Xew-Year's Uiiy, 1889, was very fine and cahn, and I consequently allowed all hands to go ashore, with the exception of three men. This occasioned some amount of danger to the yacht, for in the afternoon the wind suddenly got up and most violent squalls came on, gradually increasing from three o'clock till five, when, in the midst of a hurricane squall, one of our hawsers, which had been made fast to the reef, parted in two, and the anchors commenced to drag. "We were in great peril of either being driven ashore or colliding with a steamer which was near us, and we there- fore signalled to the men-of-war to ask for assistance, wliich was instnntly rendered by the U.8.S. Alert, who sent olf a boat with some men and a hawser, an oilicer following imme- diately in another boat. Thanks to the promptitude and smartness displayed by the men of the Alert, the yacht was soon again made secure, and all danger averted. The readi- ness with which my signal was responded to spoke exceed- ingly well for the discipline of the U.S. navy. Such a sud- den hurricane Wiis, as 1 wis afterwards told, an occurrence extremely unusual in Honolulu, and towards evening the wind died away almost as rapidly as it had commenced. WAIKIKI. 259 000 tons, ffected to lulorstand ; I could 1 Cliiiiese lojmJation. hands of ores were almost all any other is by no y'^ro would mtry were ■y line and go ashore, )ned some 1 the wind , gradually e midst of been made ommcnced ven ashore I we there- nee, which sent off u ^ing imme- titude and yacht was Tlie readi- ke exceed- uch a sud- oceurrcnce •ening the innenced. The weather, however, continued fitful and uncertain througliout the night, and the next day the wind was still blowing fresh. On Thursday, January 3, however, all atmospheric disturb- ance had passed away, and we had a most delightful and enjoyable day, the temperature being moderate and agree- able. In the afternoon I drove with Captain A. to A^^aikiki, a favourite watering-place about three miles from Honolulu, much patronised by the families of the merchants and other men of business whose occupations call them daily into the city, a tramcar which had lately been started running tin; whole distance, and there was every appearance of the ven- ture proving a great success, for cabs and private convey- ances are inordinately expensive at Honolulu. Waikiki is provided with an excellent race-course, where meetings are held at intervals during the season. A good hotel and two large batlung establishments are also to be found there, (^n our return from AVaikiki we dined at the Hawaiian Hotel, and afterwards attended a dranaatic enter- tainment wiiich was held in the schoolroom. The piece which was acted had been written by Mr 1\ of tlie Cormorant, and the crowded audience enjoyed it thoroughly, though the acting appeared to me to be decidedly amateurish and of a ver^ eble description. Friday, January 4, was a beautiful day, and after engaging a couple of Chinese cooks and doing a little necessary shopping, I took my passage on board the s.s. Kinau for Hilo, which was situated in another part of the Sandwich Islands. The Kinau was a screw vessel of 1000 tons burden, the acconnnodation on board of her being really very fair. Although there were a great many saloon passengers, I was fortunate enough to have a cabin to myself. Amongst the other passengers were three hundred Japanese, who had lately arrived from their native country for work on differ- ent sugar plantations. AYe weighed anchor a little before H ' 'ii^i '•'A ■ ^li 260 AN AMUSING EEGULATION. ';« s I ! 3 P.M.; but 110 sooner had we cleared the harbour than we encountered a choppy sea with a fresli breeze, whicli caused the sceamer to roll in a most disagreeable nianner. This was accounted for by tlie fact that she had a iiat bottom and only drew 12 feet, wliilst she was, in addition, rendered somewhat top-heavy by lier amount of deck hamper. The Kinau, like all other steamers on the same line, was run on teetotal principles, and no wine or spirits could be pro- cured on board. A printed list of rei.>ulatio'^s was ]D0sted in the state-rooms, one of which ran as follows : " Any passenger so far forgetting decency as to retire with his boots on, will be allowed a deck passage at once." The quiet humour contained in this regulation struck me as being characteristically American. After passing Lahaina, in the island of Maui, a little before midiiight, we reached Mahukona at 10 a.m. on the following day, remaining there till 4 p.m. This was a load- ing port for sugar, the plantations being distant about 14 miles from the coast, and a railway running the whole dis- tance. I was informed that there was nothing of interest to be seen on shore, and from wdiat I could see from tlie deck there was little to attract me, and I therefore remained on the steamer all tlie time she was in port. An hour after starting again we called at another place, tlie name of which was Kaiwaiiliae, wliere we sto])ped for about half an hour. Tliis seemed rather prettier than ^Maliukona, though the entire sceneiy en this side of Hawaii was virtually a mere stony waste of lava, its main characters being highly uninteresting. After a delightfully fine evening and a smooth passage during the night, we air'^'ed and anchored in Hilo ]5ay at 10 A.M. on Sunday, January G. From daybreak till tlie time of our reaching the port, the scenery as we steamed along the coast was exceedingly attractive. Numerous waterfalls were to be seen precipitating themselves over •a im ihan we li caused :\ ir. This ■:■ ; bottom rendered { er. The f was run be pro- : s ])osted ' i: "Any ,[ with his e." The V me as a little ■'; r. on the ■! a load- ibout 14 ::; •Jiole dis- ■ iterest to 4 tlie deck i^ remained J An hour | name of 1 half nn H I, thougli -^ 'tually a * g highly 1 p-'i passage [ilo ]5ay till the steamed umerous 1 k^es over 1 i 1 i A PROFITABLE SUGAR-MILL. 261 the clifl's into the sea, whilst ever and anon we passed large plantaticiis of sugar-cane. The town of Hilo itself, though it looked pleasant and picturesque enough from the deck of the steamer, proved upon our landing to be a miserable little place indeed. Tliere was not even an inn of any sort or description, though there were two churches, one Catholic and the other Presbyterian. Having hired an old tumble- down conveyance, I drove about two miles out of the town to the house of ]Mr K., the manager of the "NVaiakea sugar plantation, to whom I had a letter of introduction. I had hoped to have been able to lunch tliere ; l)ut unfortunately ]\lr X. was not at home when T called, and I therefore was obliged to return to the town, and to procure tb.e only food that was to be obtained at an exceedingly unpleasant Chinese eating-liouse. Having liastily despatched my uninviting lunch, I again drove out to Mr K.'s, and this time I was more successful, as 1 found him at home and waiting to receive me. He proved most h- , a table and courteous, and he kindly offered me a horse to ride the next day to the great volcano of Kilauea. He also proffered one of his men to show me the way, but I had inifortunately already engaged a guide from Hilo to accompany me ; 1 accepted the oiler of his horse, however. His sugar-mill, over whicli he conducted me, was fitted up with all the most modern improvements, and was capable of turning out from 20 to .'^5 tons of sugar 2)cr dinn. ]\lr K. informed me that his mill was paying a dividend of 42 per cent. On my way back to the steamer I visited a romantic little ravine spanned by a bridge over a rushing waterfall, whence was obtained a magnifi- cent view of the lofty volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, which rise to the height of 13,805 feet and l.j,000 feet respectively abo^-i the sea. The full enjoyment of my excursion next day was un- fortunately greatly marred by wretched weather. Nothing could have been more depressing or uninviting than the !^ I' ■ - 1,. '■S i ..I'-JV 'hi III I 2G2 A DISAGREEABLE RIDE. ■1 i ' pouring rain and Scotch mist which onvekjped tlie landscape on all sides, when, having packed our saddle-bags, my guide and myself started on horseback at a quarter to nine in the morning. For the Ih'st tliree miles we passed over a toler- ably fair and open road, after which we entered the woods, wdien the vegetation became so dense and luxuriant that it was with very great ditliculty that we could make our Wfiy along the rough bridle-path. Never before had I seen such a variety and abundance of ferns as we rode through for the next few hours. On emerging irom tlie woods our pathway became a mere track across the lava ; but the horses, which seemed as clever as goats, got over the journey without a single mistake. At half-past twelve we reached our halting-place, which was known by the name of the Half-way House. Up to this time the rain had continued a steady downpour with- out the slightest intermission, and I arrived wet through and feeling very cold and hungry. To my utter disgust I was informed by the people who kept the house that they had not an atom of food, not even so much as a piece of bread. However, after a considerable amount of parleying, my guide persuaded them to catch and kill a chicken ; and accordingly a fowl was caught, killed, plucked, put into the pot, boiled, and eaten within a space of time which up to that moment I should have thought absolutely incredible. The natives could not speak one word of English, and my conversations had to be carried on with them through the medium of my guide. By the time that we resumed our journey the rain had in a great measure abated, but the Scotch mist was as dense and disagreeable as ever. For the next ten miles the pathway was even worse than that which we had already traversed ; for whilst smooth and slippery lava still remained, we had to go up and down several steep inclines. With perhaps the single exception of my ride on the island of Juan Fernandez, this may be considered with- i; VOLCANO HOUSE. 263 andscape my guule lie in the r a toler- lu woods, it tliat it our way seuii such h for tlie pathway es, which vithout a CO, which Up to our with- ; througli disgust I :hat they piece of )arleyiiig, ken ; and into the ch up to icredible. , and my ough the nied our , but the For the at whicli slippery !ral steep r ride on 'ed with- out doubt to have been the wor;it road tliat I liad over travelled over. About two hours after the resumption of our journey the rain began to fall again as heavily as ever. We now entered some more woods, and the constant dripi)iiig from the trees as we rode along under them was unpleasant beyond description. At length, when my patience and endurance were almost exhausted, we struck, to my great joy, into a good broad road, and I was relieved by the guide informing me that we had only one mile farther to ride. With my spirits renewed 1 ]nit my horse into a canter, and at a quarter to seven in the evening we reached Volcano House, after a wearisome ride of .">() miles, in the course of which we had ascended 4040 feet above the sea. A-^olcano House was a somewhat rough, though, considering its position, a not uncomfortable hotel, and I was welcomed by a pleasant wood-fire which was burning brightly in the sitting-room. Cold and weary as I was, this was most acceptable, and soon put me upon good terms again with myself and my fellow-creatures. I found the hotel (piite em])ty of visitors, the last party having Ic^ft only the day before. The manager, wliose name was ^laby, was a chatty and agreeable companion, who had spent the greater part of his life in travelling, and was full of anecdote and descrip- tion. The hotel is situated almost on the brink of a did' overlooking the vast crater of Kilauea, the deep red glow from which lit up the sky with a lurid light, which presented a weird and uncanny effect as seen from the windows of the hotel. When 1 arose next morning and took a stroll outside the hotel, a most remarkable spectacle met my eye. J )own beneath me extended vast fields of hard lava, whilst in the distance the burning lake was pouring forth dense columns of smoke. The atmosphere was heavily charged with sulphur, and jets of steam were ascendinu' from the "round in everv direction. About a quarter of a mile below the hotel was a huge bank M '■. ! I % 2G4 DISGRACEFUL PRACTICES. !( of sulphur, which in some places was quite liot, wliilst scat- tered about were numerous pits of unfathomable depth from which thick fumes of sulphur were beini,' emitted ; on this l)ank was erected a small hut which was used by patients for vapour-batlis. As the weather was still uncertain during the mornint!;, I determined to postpone my visit to the crater until tlie afternoon, and I spent the interval before lunch in conversation with the landlord, and in lookinj:,' over the hotel registers, which liad been kept regularly for the last twenty- five years, and in which all visitors are re(|uested to record their impressions of the volcano. I was ashamed and dis- gusted to find that these books, which were really very valuable and interesting documents, had been wantonly mutilated by different visitors to the })lace. ^lany pages had been torn clean out for the sake of the sketches and autograplis whicli they contained; and ^Ir ^laby informed me that only a month before my visit, a picture of the Sun- beam with Lady IJrassey's autograph signature beneath it, which had been presented by her to the hotel as a memento of her visit to the spot, had actually been cut out of its frame and stolen by some tourist. It is unpleasant to reflect tliat such mean acts of dishonesty and theft should be perpetrated by tliose who at any rate might be supposed to know right from wrong, since they can afford to undertake the cost of an expensive tour to the Sandwich Islands. Some of the entries in the hotel registers were exceedingly clever and to the point, but the majority, it must be confessed, were worthless and illiterate rubbish. At a quarter to four I started with my guide to visit the crater and lake of lava, which was situated about three and a half miles from the hotel. We descended the clill' by a good path down to the lava-fields. The road was rather rough, but not difficult or dangerous, and after a couple of miles' walk- ing we reached an enormous natural furnace, which was called by the natives " The Little Elephant." From this 1 A MARVELLOUS SPECTACLE. 265 furnace a frosii stream of lava had been ejected onlv" two days before my visit. TIk; heat was very intense, but in spite of tliis we were able to approach witliin 10 yards of it. As we f;ot nearer to it we could quite distinctly feel the .uround vibratiuLf l)eueath our feet. I could not help feeling a little uneasy, though my guide assured me that there was no need foi apprehension whatever, the lava, though fresh, being already cold and hard on the surface, and quite capable of sustaining our weight. At no greater distance beneath the surface, however, than nine inches, or at most a foot, the lava was still red-hot, and wherever a crack occurred we could distinctly see it glowing beneath us. As we took up our position immediately overlooking the boiling lake, an awful and mar\ellous sight was presented to our eyes. At least two acres were covered by the lake, which entirely consisted of liquid lava. 0\'er its surface great lines of fire were constantly moving about, changing their shape and position every second, whilst from time to time showers of sparks like Koman caudles were ^'omited into the air, and large fountains of red-hot lava were thrown up in all directions. We remained tliere until darkness came on, when the scene appeared more strange and awful still. A heavy pall of smoke hung overhead, and this, together with the glowing and ever-changing fire beneath, reminded me instinctively of the traditional representations of the infernal regions. The particular lake which I have just described had only been in existence for two years ; the former one, which has already been described in the accounts of the voyages of the Sunbeam and Wanderer, being then extinct, and its position only marked by the cold hard lava and the hollow cupdike shape of its crater, stood at some little distance from the active volcano. The guide informed me that I coidd not have seen the remarkable phenomena to better advantage, as the volcano was then more active than it had been known to be for a long time past. It certainly 2 L I '\ . :. : \ : i I I 1! fll Mi'' 2GG RETURN TO HONOLULU. M\: was a marvollous and iiiiposiiig sight, and nur. wliidi wonld bu inipos.sibli' (ivcr to urase from one's menioiy. After groping our way tlirough the darkness, we reached the hotel at lialf-past seven, wliere my worthy host, Mr ^hdjy, had prepared an exeellenl; dinner, tlie sta^de (hsli of winch was wild turkey, for winch the district was famous. The air was very chilly and the ground covered with frost when we started from Volcano House on our return journey at a quarter-past six next nu)rning. I had been careful this time to provide myself with some sandwiches for my lunch at the Half-way House, and whilst there I was fortunate enc ii to imrchase from a native a curious mallet and a i)ieci if tappa, articles which art; now exceedingly rare and very dilticult to be obtained. The journey, as before, was tedious and wearisome, and 1 was ihorougidy tired out when wo reached Mr K.'s house at llilo between two and three in the afternoon. j\Iy dillicidties were not yet entirely over, for on reaching the landing-place to put ofi' to the steamer, wc found that the wind was blowing so hard, and the surf was rolling in .so heavily, that it was quite impossible for any boats to put oh' from that spot, and I had to be driven two miles farther round to a place where the water was smoother. AVe weighed anchor at a (juarter to five, the vessel being again crowded with passengers, most of whom were new, and the majority of whom at once retired to their berths. The sea was so rough that it was impossible to land either passengers or cargo at Laupahoehoe, which was the first place at which the vessel was appointed to call, and several passengers consequently had to be taken on to jMahukona, where we stayed all next day taking in sugar. After calling at Kawaiihae in the evening of that day, and at Lahaina at seven next morning, we readied Honolulu at 2.40 P.M., Friday, January 11, having passed H.M.8. Cormorant at target-practice olf the island of jMolokai. ■li would 2G7 k, U'licliod IrMiiby, of wliicli The ftir when we ucy rtt a this time ell at the .(' eno' li I ])ieci if and very as tedious when we nee in the )ver, for on r, we found was rollin;4 ly boats to two miles other. "We being again )W, and the s. The sea : passengers ice at which passengers \, where we I- calling at Lahaina at it 2.40 r.M., ormorant at CHAPTER XXVll. A 1!(IVAI, VISITOU — AXdl.U'AX CATniCDKA I. — TUi; llISIIol' dl' MONO- I,l'I,U U.S.S. IIOI.IMIIN AN Al'lUKNCK Ol' llli; KIN'd OF HAWAII THK HOYAT, I'ALACE — ^TIIIC CiUVKlJXMKN'T MISKL'.M TUI'; I'UI.SOX TUI .iL'KKx's noSl'ITAI, — TUK M'XALII.o HOMK A lioAT-UACI'; AXI) A I'APKU-CHASE — MY XKW COOK TUK KAMKU A.MICMA SCHO(JI, A XAVAf. DliAMAirC KXTEUTAIX.MKXT AX KVKXIXO I'AKTY OX .lOAIil) THK XYAXZA- — TUK HOYAI. M ACSOl.KUM THE I'AM " I'ATIEXCi; " AT THE llOYAI, OPEIiA-UOUSE SET'rMX(i UP UEl'AUTUUE EUO.M THE HAH130LU MY DUUXICEN SICHU'EI! EXKOKL'EI) HETUUX TO POKT A XAVAL COUIU" HYMl'TOMS OK MUTIXY OX UOAIU) DISMISSAT; OK SAIIJXG-MASTER AXI) EX- GAGEMEXT OK CAl'TAIX HOLLAND — ^KIXAL IJEPAHTUHE KltOM HOXOI.ULU. Jannanj l.'-Fibruari/ ,1, Ls'SO, The morning after my return from my short trip in the Kinau, we were honoured by a visit from her lioyal Highness Princess Kaiulani, who, attended by ]\Ir and IMiss C, came on board the yacht to lunch. The I'rincess, who, humanly speaking, will one day be Queen of Hawaii, was then thirteen years of age, a bright pleasant child, very good-looking, ex- tremely intelligent, and full of talk. During the time that she was on board we tlew the Ifawaiian ensign at the n^ain. The U.S.S. Dolphin arrived that afternoon from Acapulco, and I called upon the captain and officers, as well as on those of the U.S.S. Adams. I found that my friend Captain G. had been superseded in the conunand of the Alert : as he m 2G8 ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL. i ! H I i was intending to retnrn to f>an Francisco, I offered him a passage in tlie yacht. Sunday, January 13, was a lovely day, and I went ashore to High Mass at half-past nine in the morning. The churcli was decidedly tawdry, and the congregation almost entirely composed of natives and half-castes, who liad evi- dently plentifully anointed themselves with cocoa-nut oil, the smell of whicli was distinctly overpowering. The sing- ing was poor ; and as for the sermon, I was unable to judge of its merits, for it was preached in the Hawaiian language. So far as I could see, we were the only Europeans present. Jn the afternoon I called on Captain 04. and his wife, who were then living ashore, and I brought them oil' to a six-o'clock dinner on board the yacht. In the evening we all attended the Anglican Cathedral, which is dedicated to St Andrew, and which was really a handsome church, though it had not yet been completed. The singing was good and the service well rendered. The Anglican Bishop of Honolulu bore the reputation of being an energetic man, Init appa- rently wanting in tact, and consequently very unpopular with the large proportion of the ilock. The congregation and diocese were divided into tv/o parties, one siding with him, and the other in opposition, the dill'erences being chiefly cii financial matters. H.M.S. Cormorant returned from Molokai in tlie course of the day, and reported having had good sport on the island in shooting deer. The ne.\t day I received a visit from Mr S. P., a native gentleman who i)ossessed one of the largest cattle ranches in Hawaii, and who was noted for his great hospitality to strangers. He was particularly fond of Eng- lish and Americans, and he generally had some naval ollicers staying on a visit with him for a while, cattle-shooting and pig-sticking. Accompanied by Captain G., I went in the afternoon to visit the Dolphin, which, having been originally l)uilt for the I smM ^WP 1. , I ffered hiiu a nd I went rniiiij'. The at ion almost lo liad evi- )coa-nut oil, The sing- e to judge an language. present. In ie, who were a six-o'clock all attended St Andrew, lough it had ood and the of Honolulu in, Init appa- ly unpopular congregation 3 siding with irences being ^n the course on the island i'isit from Mr )f the largest for his great fond of Eng- naval oflicers ■shooting and afternoon to ■ built for the AX AUDIENCE OF THE KING OF HAWAII. 269 President's yacht, was fitted up in an unusually handsome manner. Tlie captain's accommodation was mo^t luxurious, and there was a liandsome smoking-room on deck, a most unusual thing on board a man-of-war. She was a despatch vessel, carrying one G-inch gun forward, besides several Hotchkiss and Gatlings. In the evening vve dined with the IJev. Mr M., one of the Cathedral clergy, who had been resident in Honolulu for a long time, and '.vho lived in a ])retty and comfortable house a little way nit of the town. On Tuesday, January 1"), I visited H.M.S. Hyacinth, at the invitation of Captain A., who showed me over every jiart of the vessel, including th.c magazines, engine-room, and even the stoke-hole. I was much interested in watch- ing the exercising of the crew at general quarters, the top- gallant masts and yards being sent down, the bowsprit and jib-boom rigged in, and the ship got into preparation as if about to engage an enemy. In tlie afternoon, accompanied by Mr S. P., we went to the palace to I'ave an audience of his Majesty. On arriving, we were ushered into an extremely handsome drawing-room, and no sooner had we entered by one door than the King- appeared through another. He was a tall and dignified-look- ing man, Init considerably darker than the generality of Hawaiians. He spoke English excellently, and chatted most afl'ably with us for nbout ten minutes, showing from his observations that he was thoroughly well informed upon all political matters. He wore European costume, with a black frock-coat, in the button-hole of which was the rosette of an order. He nominally belonged to the Anglican Church ; but it was whispered tliat he inwardly luid a great leaning towards the heatlien customs of his ancestors, and that upon important occasions he consulted a priestess of tlic o]d re- ligi(jn. He had been shoin of almost all his former power, and his sovereign authority was now more nominal than real. At tlie conclusion of our interview, tlio. King ordered his ■ i ■ 1' ■ i S P^iJ , i t '■ vi ' ■ , ■ ; i i I I i '■'f'f^ ,. , 270 THE GOVEENMENT MUSEUM. : I m\ '1 ! "^'hamberlain to take us through the state rooms of the palace. The throne - room was a magniticent a]iartment, occasionally used for balls, and on the walls were hung in frames the dilferent orders which the King had received from European sovereigns. I'ortraits of the various kings and (jueens of ]Iawaii were also arranged in order. The most conspicuous object on the walls of the drawing-room was a water-colour portrait of C^ueen Victoria. The rooms were panelled with native woods beautifully polished, and the whole ])alace was far handsomer and more splendidly furnished than I had expected to find it. It stood in the midst of extensive grounds, which were well laid out and excellently kept. The Queen did not appear, the King stat- ing that she was not very well, and that slie cnly understood English imperfectly. In the evening we dined with Major "\V., who had been the British Connnissioner and Consul-General in Honolulu for over twenty years, but was then in rather feeble health. At dinner I met Captain B., late of ihe Hyacinth, and Mr K. of the Cormorant. The U.8.S. Adiuis left this day for San Francisco. On January 10, Captain W. of the Dolphin and myself drove out to AVaikiki to lunch wit'i Mr C. This "entleman had lived on the spot for twenty years, in the course of which he had built for himself an extremely pretty place, consisting of two neat bungalows, surrounded by well-kept gardens, in which were numerous trees and shrubs of rare and valuable species. Afterwards I visited the Government Museum, which possessed a tolerably fair collection of Ha- waiian antiquities, thougli nothing like so valualJe as it for- merly had been, as the King had given away to distinguislied visitors many of the most ini'jortant and interesting articles. The gem of the collection was a feather-helmet anciently worn by the principal chiefs. This helmet, which was the only one then remaining, was in a splendid state of preserva- < J ' .jf IS of the lartinent, hunjj; in received ous kinn's der. The viiiy-rooiu 'he rooms si led, and plendidly jod in the I out and King stat- mderstood had l)een Honohilu jle liealth. iind :Mr K. ay I'or San nd myself gentleman course of etty phice, well-kept bs of rare avernment on of Ha- as it for- tinguished ig articles, anciently I' was the : preserva- THE PRISON. 271 tion, and was made on a wicker-work foundation overlaid with small scarlet and yellow feathers, so skilfully laid on as to conceal the basket-work underneath. The shape of the helmet was decidedly classical. The other things which I saw in the museum were scarcely worth recording. A far more interesting collection was that belonging to a private individual, ]\Ir B., with whom we went to lunch on the follow- ing day. His museum coutainet'. a marvellous aggregation of old Hawaiian curiosities. Unfortunately it was rather ditlicult to examine them, as they were contained in a dark basement. Mr 15., however, was then liuilding a large room for them ; and when that was completed, he intended to have all the various articles in his museum carefully ar- ranged and catalogued ; and when this is finished, it will indeed be a most interesting collection, and one of the sights of Honolulu most worth vi.^iting. ]\lpiiy of the things which he possesses are nowadays exceedingly rare, and some of tliem are quite impossible to be obtained. Amongst other institutions which I visited at Honolulu was the prison, which, though small, appeared to be admi- rably managed. The prisoners were chielly employed in road-making; and owing to the want of accommodation there were, as a rule, two prisoners in every cell. AVe saw two Chinamen, who were lying under sentence of death for murder. They had already been condemned upwards of three months, and it was .still uncertain when they would be executed, it being the custom in the Sandwich Islands to allow a considerable length of time to elapse in capital cases between sentence and execution. How far this is just and merciful is a very moot question. From some points of view it would appear as if the best plan would be a sunnnary execution, instead of dragging out the agony of suspense for the wretched criminals; but on the other hand, there is something to be .said for a somewhat protracted interval, especially in cases where the prisoner has been convicted on '*il )-*( j( ..jf m ! ■II' : i ;!i^ m m (! (I : 272 QUEEN S HOSPITAL — LUXALILO HOME. circumstantial evidence, or wlien there is the least uncer- tainty as to his guilt. A great ^^Oiitrast to one's feelings on visiting the prison is that which possesses one wlien inspecting such an institu- tion as the (Queen's Hospital, whicli derives its name from the late Queen Emma, by whom it was founded and endowed. This is a most excellently managed institution, standing in the midst of beautifully shady grounds, and is free for all native - born Hawaiians. Foreigners arc also admitted as in-patients to the hospital, but they are rerpured to make a payment, wliich varies according to their means. The ex- penses of the poorer patients are defrayed by one or another of the many benevolent societies wliich exist in Honolulu. In the hospital is a ward witli private rooms for tliose who can afford to pay for them. The charge for each room, including board and medical attendance, is s2^, a-day, and these rooms are miich used. There are two resident English physicians, besides native doctors and nurses, and all tlie arrangements in tlie liospital and tlirougliout tlie wards reflected the very greatest credit on tliose wlio were respon- sible for its management. Another very excellent institution which I visited was the Lnnalilo Home, founded and endowed l)y tlie late king for tlie accommodation and support of aged and infirm natives of Hawaii who had no private means of subsistence. Fifty persons of botli sexes can be received into the home. At the time when I was there the inmates numbered thirty-eight, and all of them appeared to be thoroughly comfortable and happy, as indeed they ought to be, for the treatment which they receive is most generous and liberal, and it would be hard to imagine a more comfortable place in which these poor old creatures should end their days. I tasted the food, and found it excellent ; and I was told that the old men were regularly supplied with their rations of tobacco and other little luxuries. I was introduced to one old lady who was an M 1 I A BOAT-RACE AND A PAPER-CHASE. 273 ''i . ;; fist uucer- tlie prison an institu- lame from :1 endowed. tandiiifi; in ree for all Iniitted as to make a The ex- or another lionolnlu. tliose who each room, a-day, and ent English ind all the the wards ere respon- ited was the ite king' for firm natives jnce. Fifty me. At the thirty-eight, Portable and ment which it would be which these ;ed the food, he old men ;co and other • who was an •I inmate of the establishment, and who, though over ninety years of age, had but just before been married to a blind man. On Friday, January IS, a race took place in the afternoon between the wliale-boats of the Hyacinth and Cormorant, the distance being 2^^ miles. The former's boat won easily by five lengths. We dined on board the Hyacinth in the evening, whicli was decorated with flags and Chinese lan- terns, and the town band played on the poop, a very pleas- ant time being spent. The following day after lunch we drove out to the base- ball ground, where a meet had been appointed to take place for a paper-chase, in wliich we proposed to participate. About thirty people were present at the meet. The two riders who were selected as hares started punctually at 2.15 r.>r., and after giving them twenty minutes' grace we followed. Tlic chase was made on liorseback, and the course was round Diamond Head to Waikiki. The road was very rough, and the pace fast ; but we had a thorougldy enjoyable gallop, though we were uiifible to catch the hares, who arrived it Waikiki some time before us. The two Chinese cooks whom I had engaged declined to continue in my service, and therefore on that day Cap- tain G.'s late cook, a Japanese r.Uined Kum Sungya, signed articles. Cn Sunday, Januarv 20, I went to morning service at St Andrew's Cathedral. This service, which was held at eleve«, vas attended by what was called in Honolulu the "secona congregation," — that is to say, formed by tliose members of the liisliop's tlock who were opposed to him, and who therefore refused to attend the service at which he oilftciated. The choir consisted of ladies belonging to the congregation, and the singing was very good. I have already spoken at some length about the admirable institutions whicli are in existence at Honolulu, and my 2 M H <\ i ih i<. "^ ■^.'"j--- BJfPBia m\ ^^SKi^rSwt ■i I I ^'i ■ i ' fli .1 1 1 1 1 1^ i : i 1 :y t i 274 THE KAMEHAMEHA SCHOOLS. account of these would be imperfect if I omitted a description of the Kamehamelia schools, which, accompanied by ]\Ir B., I visited on ]\ronday, January 21. These schools were founded and endowed by the late j\Irs 15., who had left the whole of her property for that purpose. They were intended solely for native Ijoys of the upper artisan class, and had been in operation about eighteen months. In addition to sound commercial education, the boys were each being taught some trade, as, for example, that of printers, plumbers, carpenters, wood-turners, or blacksmiths, according to the natural bent of their character and inclinatic. . Besides these they were being instructed in aritlimetic, geometry, algebra, dictation, freehand and mechanical drawing, physical geography, history, reading, penmanship, and moral instruc- tion — in short, they have all the ad^'antages of education which are provided by a first-class English grammar-school. ^Moreover, they received special lessons ir nmsic, for which the natives of Hawaii show a remarkable aptitude. The diilerent specimens of the pupils' handiwork which we were shown in the various worksliops and departments were indeed most creditable to them. The institution was in all things evidently \ery admirably managed, the only doubts impressed upon the mind of the writer being whether the boys were not being brought up above their station in life, and whether, considering the homes that they would go to on leaving the school, tliey were not being too luxuriously housed and treated. Every boy had a separate liedroom to himself, comfortable and substantial, and furnished with every arrangement which could conduce to his comfort. Tliere were altogether four boarding-houses in the schools, the charge for each boy being 840, or about 8 guineas, a-year, wliich charge is inclusive of all expenses. There were at the time of my visit ninety boys in the senior, but it was intended to increase the number to 140, the ages of the pupils varying from thirteen to twenty. .\ preparatory ^ OLS. nitted a description npanied by Mr B., icse schools were ,, who had left tlie 'liey were intended sail class, and had IS. In addition to were each being- printers, plumbers, according to the clinatic. . ]?esides ithmetic, geometry, il drawing, physical and moral instruc- itagos of education ish grannnar-school. il iiiusic, for which pble aptitude. Tlie vork which we were departments were istitution was in all ed, the only doubts being whether the ;heir station in life, it tlicy would go to iing too luxuriously I separate bedroom and furnished with ice to his comfort, uses in the scliools, ir about 8 guineas, 1 expenses. There ill the senior, but it 140, the ages of the ty. .V preparatory NAVAL DRAMATIC ENTERTAINMENT. 275 school for small boys had also been opened in connection with the upper establishment, the pupils for this latter being between the ages of seven and twelve, and the charges being 860, or 12 guineas, a-year. In this preparatory school there were twenty-six sharp-looking and intelligent little boys, all busily at work at the time of my visit. Tuesday, January 22, the U..S.S. Dolphin sailed for Japan, and Captain G.'s successor arrived from San Francisco. I visited him on board the Alert on the following morning, and was much pleased with his courtesy and kindness. He bade me make full use of him in any way in which he could be of assistance to me. On the evening of Tliursday, January 24-, we attended a dramatic entertainment on board the Cormorant, which was entirely got up by the A.B's. The stage had been erected on the port side below the pooii, and was prettily decorated and efl'ectively illuminated. The blue-jackets presented the various characters remarkably well, especially tliose to whom were allotted the female parts. Some of the songs were really excellent, and the step-dancing of two of the men was particularly clever and good. Princess Xaiulani was present at the entertainment, as also a large number of the eiite of Honolulu. The following day was one of great excitement on board the yacht, for we had decided to give a party in the evening, as a small return for the unbounded hospitality with which we had been everywhere received. Throughout the morning and afternoon busy preparations were going on on board. All the gear about the decks was removed, and a screen erected right across tlie deck by the side of the foremast. Side-screens and heavy awnings were also put up, and these were completely covered over with foreign ensigns and signals. One of the officers from the Alert with a couple of liis men assisted us greatly in draping the Hags and in decorating the yacht. The after-skylight became a mass of ^ !' I '■i\ i i-. : r i; I 276 EVENING PARTY ON BOARD THE NYANZA. t iih roses and iiowers, with fairy-lamps embedded amongst them. Along- the boom we hung Cliinesc lanterns, whilst clusters of ship's lamps, borrowed from the Alert, enlivened and illumi- nated various parts of the deck. ]>y six o'clock all preparn tions had been completed, and when the lights were lit thi; eflect was highly picturesque. Shortly before eight the guests began to arrive, and in less than half an liour every one who had been invited had come. Altogether, we had 50 people on board, in addition to 45 sailors from the men- of-war. AVe should have invited more, but feared that there would not be space for their comfort. As it turned out, however, there was not the slightest crowding, and we could easily have accommodated a great many more. One o'clock had struck before the last of our visitors had departed, every one of whom, on bidding us farewell, expressed the great enjoyment which they had experienced ; and we were satisfied to think that everything hail passed off well, the full pleasure of the evening being only marred by the conduct of the sailing-master and chief officer, both of whom became the worse for drink, and disgusted several of the visitors by the bad language which they used on deck. Next morning we visited the royal Mausoleum in company with ^Ir C, who had kindly procured from the King a special order of admission. This, I wns informed, was the highest mark of attention which could be shown by the King to a stranger, and we were the first to whom permission to enter had been granted since the visit of the Lamberts in the Wanderer in 1881. The IMausoleum is situated on a rising ground immediately overlooking the town and harbour, and a short distance up the Xuuanu Avenue. It was a pretty Gothic building, standing in an enclosed space of ground. At the time of our visit it contained the remains of the Kings Kamehameha I., II., and III., tlie Princess Likelike, and various other members of the royal family. The coffins, which were very massive, were made of native wood beauti- ■^■^fl XZA. oiigst tliein. t clusters of and illuini- all preparn- wcre lit the u eight the liour every lier, we had 111! the men- feared that As it turned ding, and we more. One had departed, expressed the and we were well, the full le conduct of ^^hom became he visitors by m in company King a special ^s the highest the King to a ission to enter niberts in the ted on a rishig 1 harbour, and t was a pretty ice of ground. IS of the Kings Likelike, and . The coflins, i wood beauti- ROYAL MAUSOLEUM, HONOLULU. 277 fully polished, and were ornamented with silver crowns and coats-of-arms. In the vestibule are deposited the remains of ^Ir AVyllie, an Englislnnan, who long lield a Government oflice at Honolulu, and who was much respected and beloved by the natives of Hawaii. A large vault had recently been constructed in the grounds outside the ^Mausoleum, and several coffins, including that of Queen Emma, had been transferred to this new vault from the ^Mausoleum. Here Royal Ma II so leu III, Honolulu. also, in a separate grave, are buried the remains of James Young, a native of Yorkshire, who formed one of the crew of a whaler, captured by tlie natives towards the close of the eighteenth century. James Young became a very important man in Hawaii, and was one of the most trusted ministers and advisers of Kamehameha I., and it was in a great measure owing to his exertions that the group became united into one kingdom. Tiie INIausoleum and the other royal burial-place beside it are regarded by the natives with super- stitious awe and veneration, and a strong feeling exists \ \ \ \ i ! ;? ■■• !! !; U\ 1 w 11 iMs ii • ; I i I 278 THE PALI. ainoiigst lliein that Kuropeaiis should not be allowed to visit thoiii. ]r.]\I.S. Conquest arrived from Callao vid the ^larquesas Islands, and on Sunday, January liT, we attended morning service on board lier. Tlie singing of the crew was devo- tional and spirited, and tlie naval chaplain whom she car- ried on board ])reae]ied a short and simple sermon, good and inueli to the point. Trincess Kaiulani was a mendjer of the congregation. About six miles from Honolulu is a place called the Tali, and thither we drove after lunch next day. The road passes up the Nuuanu Avenue, and gradually ascends amidst beautiful scenery until it reaches tlie top of the Tali. This word " Pali " in the Hawaiian language signifies a precipice, and on arriving at the top one can well understand how thoroughly it deserves its name, for upon one side is a sheer and awful descent of at least 1200 feet ; and from this point of vantage one can see the sea on both sid's of the island, and the view in every direction is extensive and magnificent. The spot is also celebrated in the history of the country, for here was the scene of the last stand made by the followers of the King of Oaliu when Ivamehameha I. invaded the island. In the decisive battle which was fought between the rival kings the new-comers defeated the former inhabitants with tremendous loss, and drove large bodies of them over the precipice. After dinner on Tuesday, January 29, a large party of us attended an amateur performance of " l*atience " at the Uoyal Hawaiian Opera - House. I had expected to see a shabby and indilierent building like most of the theatres which I had seen since leaving England ; but to my utter surprise I found the little opera-house of Honolulu an exquisitely beautiful and well - arranged theatre. The piece was well mounted and excellently ]»layed, — the whole performance reflecting the greatest credit upon the amateur company in i ^i i'-^ s-^ A DKUNKEX ,SKirPKl{. 279 general, ami upon ]\Ii' P., of H.^LS. Cormorant, in particular, to whose skill ami energy as stage-manager the smoothness and success of the piece was in a great measure due. !Many of the songs and dances were enthusiastically encored. Our preparations for departure had been going on for the last two days, and I fully intended to set sail upon the day succeeding the performance of " I'atience," — that is to say, "Wednesday, January 30. In accordance with this intention Captain A. kindly sent his steam-cutter off to us early that morning to tow us alongside the wharf, where we tilled u}) with fresh water. After settling sundry small bills on shore we got under way just after noon, but not before I had had some trouble with three of my men who had gone ashore without leave and had returned the worse for drink, being caught, moreover, in the act of trying to smuggle some liquor on board. Having exchanged farewell signals with the men-of-war, we sailed out of the harbour, being favoured by a nice breeze. After lunch I discovered that the sailing-master was also the worse for drink ; but hoping that the ei'l'ects would soon pass off, and that, now we were once more at sea all would go well, I thought it more prudent to say nothing about it. However, he repeatedly went below at short intervals, and every time lie returned on deck it was evident that he had been takhig more. V>y half-past four o'clock he was in such a condition of intoxication that he was absolutely unfit for duty. I therefore decided to put back to Honolulu, not thinking it prudent to coast along such a dangerous shore with a drunken skipper. On passing the signal station on Diamond Head I hoisted signals for a pilot, and on arriving (jff the outer buoy Mr C. went off in the lifeboat to notify Captain 0. of H.M.S. Con- quest. Meanwhile I ordered Hunt to remain below in his cabin, but he doggedly refused to obey my commands. Shortly afterwards the pilot came off, and by G.15 p.m. i 1 11 it (I if 1 li * 280 A NAVAL couirr. we were n,c;ain moored in our old berth. Timnediatoly I wont (»rr to the Hyacinth and saw Captain A., after whicli I teh'iilioned to the lU'ilisli Yico-Consid, askin^f liim to send oil' p(jhc'o to remove IFuut from thi; yarlit. At half-past seven tliree policemen came and took him ashore amidst a' great deal of excitement amongst the men on board, who gave evidence of a slight disposition to mutiny, and for a short time I was afraid that they would forcil)ly resist his removal. Fortunately, however, they soun fpuet^'d down, and the policemen were allowed to take oil' their prisoner without any opposition or disturbance. Xext morning I applied to Captain O. for a naval court to try Hunt, and my application being granted, the court was ordered to assemble at 10 A.M. on the folhiwing day at the Consulate. ^Meanwhile I arranged with a Captain Hol- land, who had bet "^^von.nly recommended to me, to come as my sailing-master as lut "^nn I'rancisco, the agreement being that if we mutually suited one another he should receive a permanent appointment. The naval court for the trial of Hunt assembled at the time and place appointed. Tiie ].risoi-.er was charged with drunkenness and insubordination, llie latter consisting in his refusal to go below when ordviud by me to do so. '!J'he man had practically no defence, and he was found guilty of the first charge, but acquitted of the second. He was sentenced to be reprimanded, disnussed from his ship, and to pay the expenses of his arrest. A further record was entered by the court that they considered the evidence of my chief ollicer, ]\Ir Lawless, totally unreliable and in the highest degree unsatisfactory. The following day I paid off Hunt at the Consulate, after which he came to the yacht to pack up his effects, finally leaving the vessel at 2 r.M. When it came to his actual diamissal I could not help feeling sorry for him ; but after all, I had given him seve^'al chances, and at hh trial I made N I FINAL DKIWIITUIIH I'"110M HONOLULU. 281 iiedialely A., after :i\\>^ liim rill. At im ashore men on mutiny, I l'oreil)ly 111 ([uii't.-il (iir tlii'ir aval court the court W'^ (lay at [ilaiu IFol- to come as au'vcement he should )led at the ar^ed with 5tiii,n' ill his 'J'lie man lilty of the 3 sentenced to pay the 3red by the hief officer, lest degree no mention of his previous conviction at Tahiti, wishing to deal as leniently as possible with liim. He luid lost a good liertli, and T do not know what became of him; but sad and disagreeable as the episode was, he had only himself to tliank for all that happened. On Sunday, Fcdu'uary :!, 1 attended ]\[ass at the Catholic Cathedral at 7 A.M., at which the T.ishop of Ollia preached in Knglisli. Soon after Ijreakfast we pvei)ared for sea, and at 11 A.Nr. Captain ILolland came on board to enter u])()n his duties. We then conr.iicnced to get under way; but it took us a longer time than usual, as the nuiii were working (ivi- dently in a half-hearted manner, and the eirects of the late unpleasantness were still clearly rankling in their liearts. To make matters worse, two men, who had become friends of the crew, were towing alongside the yacht in a lioat, and when they cast oil", it capsized, the men being left struggling in the water. Fortur. dy, however, a sailing-boat lia})])ened to be near, and they were rescued without any more damage than a thorough wetting and a temporary fright. For the second time we exchanged signals of farewell with the men- of-war, and on this occasion we did actually turn our backs upon Honolulu, of which we shall always retain the pleas- antest recollections, from the genial kindness and unstinted hospitality which was displayed to us by every one with whom we came in contact, from the King himself down to the luiniblest native. ailate, after 3cts, finally his actual ; but after rial I made 2 X I ; ( ! <. k SS91 282 CHAPTER XXVIII. Mi AT SKA A .SPLENDID IfUX SAX I'lJAXCIHCO THE AMEHICAX IX- TEKVIEWEIt A CALIFOKXIAX liESTAURAXT THE XEW liUSII STREET THEATRE — THE OCCIDEXTAI, HOTEL — ARTICLES OX OUR VOYAGE IX THE NEWSPAPERS THE RRITISH COXSUL A TROUBLESOME CUSTOM - HOUSE OFFICER THE PRESIDIO II.JLS. ICARUS — A CHAPTER OF ACCIDENTS 1 LOSE MY XEW SAILIXG- MASTER AXD ENGAGE ANOTHER SPARRING AT THE CALIFORXIA ATHLETIC CLUB 1 MAKE A COXSIDERABLE CHAXGE IN MY SHIP's CIlEW. Fchrunry 4-JS, ISSO. AVe were now bound direct for San Francisco, a distance of a little over 2000 ni'les nearly due X.Jv from nonolulu. For the first tliree days we did a moderate run under a light breeze, which, however, was for the most j)art in our favour. On Thursday and Friday, Ttli and 8th F'ebruary, wo had a magnificent breeze, and made 471 miles in the forty-eight hours. The weather now began to get decidedly colder, and during the niglits tlie air was quite sharp. Sunday, February 10, was a beautiful bright sunny day, nncl our record at noon for the last twenty-four hours regis- tered the highest tliat we had made since connnencing our voyage. Our run was 1*70 miles, winch was 18 miles more than any W(i had previously accomplished in one (hiy, Soon after noon, however, the wind droi)]ied, and for the next two or three days we were very nuKh biillled. SAN FRANCISCO. 283 AMKIUCAX IN'- NEW liUSII ;cr-KS o:: vOUR CONSUL A ICSIOU) II. M.S. NEW SAILING- IE CALIFOHNIA IN SW ship's a distance of )m noiiolulu. run under a t i)art in onr ary, we had a lie forty-eight Uy cohler, and lit sunny day, r hours regis- inniencing our 18 miles more iiie day. Soon I- tlie next two On Tuesday, February 12, we passed the dead body of a man, which a])peared to liave been in the water for some time. Our attention was first attracted to it by a large number of birds which were hovering over it. This was the second corpse which we Iiad ])assed on our voyage. That day, for the first time since leaving Smyth's Channel, we were obliged to have a fire in the saloon. The wind now freshened again considerably, and we I'ad a nasty spell of mist and rain. The weather steadily grew worse, and a heavy cross-sea gradually rose, until at sunset on lebruary 14 we were com- ])elled to stow the mainsail and to heave to under close-reefed storm trysail and staysail. The barometer fell considerably, and there was every indication of unpleasant weather ahead of us. Next morning we commenced running again, but the wind continued to blow hard all day. The sea broke over us at frequent intervals, and some water got into the saloon. However, before noon on the following day the atmosjihcric disturbance had disappeared, and we were favoured by fine weather, the air being crisp and pleasant. Xothing noteworthy occurred until Thursday, February 21, when at a distance of about 50 miles from San Francisco we sighted land at 2 r.M. Favoured by a pi asant breeze, we rapidly ran along the coast all that afternoon, and by 7 r.Jf. \ve were abreast of the South Farallon. Unfortunately the weather came on very thick, and a dense fog ensued, com- plffoi" obscuring our view of the light, until the moon rose shoitiy before midnight, when the sky cleared and we were able once more to see our way. At about 2 A.]\r. we met a pilot-boat, and took a pilot on board, as the weather gave indications of becoming thick again. However, owing to the influence of a light breeze, it luckily remained clear, and we came safely to anchor in San Francisco harbour, opposite to Pacitic Street Wharf, at G.oO ■ U f .'i ■'■] H^ ,i f llii if I"! M W m -iT'^ M n6«« ■HB! i ! t : 284 THE AMERICAN INTERVIEWER. A.M. of Friday, February 22. AVo had thus taken nineteen days in our passage frcni Honolulu. The ])ay of San Francisco is certainly noble and grand, and with tlie single exception of that of Ilio, it is in my opinion the finest I have ever seen. The view as one enters through tlie Golden Gates is very fine, the only drawback to the perfection of the scenery being the want of trees cloth- ing the hillsides, a remarkable feature of the llio liarbour. Although there was naturally an immense amount of ship- ping in tlie liarbour, I was surprised to see no men-of-war. The:e were, however, two small Eevenue cruisers, named respectively the Kusli and the Corwin. It being tlie anni- versary of George AVashinglon's birthday, most of tlie ships were gaily dressed, and we hoisted the American ensign at the main. Having received a visit from the inevitable American interviewer, who pestered me with questions of every kind concerning ail tIrO details of my voyage, I landed and went immediately to the post-office, hoping to find some letters awaiting me. This (Sovernment building was a most dilap- idated and second-rate edifice, such as one would scarcely have ex])ected to find in a fionrishing town like San Fran- cisco. ]\Iy letters I afterwards found at the IJritish Con- sulate, whence I repaired to the Occidental Hotel, situated in Montgomery Street, and cliiefiy patronised by naval and military men. Montgomery, ^larket, and California Streets are those in which the principal shops are to be found, many of which, according to my judgment, outrival those of Lon- don and Paris. Tlie streets themselves are extraordinarily wide and spacious, and they are lined on Ijuth sides with magnificent buildings. One can scarcely realise, as one wan- ders through the handsome fashionable quarters of tln^ tosvn, that this splendid city of modern enterprise '.-as st.-^'.iuiiig upon a site which even within the last forty }eavs h ;d bevu nothing but a sandy waste. '.-yY ni nineteen and grand, t is in my > one enters rawback to trees clotli- fio liarbour. int of ship- men-of-war. sers, named f tlie anni- Df the ships n ensign at e American I every kind L'd and went some letters most dilap- )nld scarcely e San Fran- liritish Con- otel, situated )y naval and 'ornia Streets found, many hose of Lon- :tr:\ordinarily h sides with I, as one wan- ; of the town, •>;is stJ^.Kiiiig 20 vs h A be-jn o r. O ^% w ■in* \m\iimmmm "! !? .^ ' .. '-■_ ' " . ^" ' -' "*'■' iifLJJMlS BmmKBi'ii'vmmammmmmm ! 1 i' 1 4 •'1 \ • I i! Ui !i •,- ; XEW BQSH STREET THEATRE. 285 On the following day, in accordance with the invitation of Mr C, to whom I had given a passage from Honolulu, we lunched at one o'clock in an American restaurant, where wc had a most excellent repast indeed. The Californian oysters with wliich we were serv^ed were especially wortliy of notice. Tlie shells were very small, and the oysters themselves not nearly so large as our famous Whitstable natives ; Init the llavour of them was more succulent and pleasant than tliat of any others I had previously tasted out of England. After lunch we drove for about three miles in a cable car to the C} olden Gate Park; liut as we had arranged to go to the theatre in the evening, we unfortunately had no time to enter the park itself. On our way we passed numerous elegant and well-constructed villas, built for the most part of wood, as indeed are almost all the houses and editices in San Francisco. From what one could see of the town, stone and brick must be a rarity in the neighbourhood. ^Many of the streets of San Francisco are very steep, and consequently tlie cars are generally on the cable principle, which is an excellent system for steep gradients. They go at a rapid pace and are very easily controlled, and the fares, it seemed to me, exceedingly moderate. AVe paid five cents or 2id. each, and this, we were informed, would have taken us for any distance. The theatre which we. attended in tlie evening was tlie New Bush Street Tlieatre. The house itself was pretty and well constructed, and tlie audience was a large one. ]]ut of all the pieces I liave seen, 1 could scarcely imagine a more stupid and uninteresting farce than that entitled " A Hole in the Ground," wliieh was the only piece presented. On returning to the yaclit I found that the evening had set in wet and dirty; and luring tlie night we dragged our anchor, fouling the Hush, breaking our martingale, and damaging her rail. The next day was Sunday, February 24, and we lunched and nl :*:: — ^ •. rjrrr- T^-r— W"Ji r- I I' t M.jJ i ,; 1 R' i ; j il- ' j 1: i 286 SENSATIONAL ARTICLES IN AMERICAN PAPERS- dii^ed at the Occidental. Tlie cliavges seemed to me extremely- moderate, considering that it \va.s a first-rate hotel. They were on the usual system practised in America — namely, ai 2)cnsion ; and the charge was three and a half dollars, or a little less than 15s. a-day for a large hedroom, with a bath- room attached to it, and five excellent meals, every one of which was equal to any corresponding meal that one could get at a London hotel. I was much amused during the afternoon in reading several long articles upon our voyage wliich had appeared in the San Francisco newspapers. ^Nlost of them purported to give veritable reports of conversations which their corre- spondents had had with nu3 ; though with the one exception of the interviewer whom I have already mentioned above, I had never spoken to another reporter. This, however, as I learned, is the usual custom with American papers, the editors of which .ire by no means particular, provided that they can fill their papers with something to catch the public eye. One of the articles on our voyage was headed in large capitals, "Girdling the Earth"; and another thus: "Captain Dewar sees the Lights of the "World at his Ease." Certainly, American newspapers and periodicals are conducted upon different principles of social ctifpi.ette from those which prevail in England or on the Continent ; and to one like myself, who is not accustomed to them, they seem, to say the least of it, to verge upon impertinence in their personal remarks. Next day I made the acquaintance of ^Mr D., our Consul at San Francisco. He had only been two years in his present position, to which he liad been promoted from lialtimore. I found him most kind and obliging, and it was not long before I had occasion to avail myself of his services. In the afternoon of that day I received a message summoning me to the Custom-house, (^n arriving tliither I was informed that my yacht must be entered under tlie I'APEE8 e extremely otel. Tliey -namely, en dollars, or a ivitli a l)atli- ivery one of t one could in reading appeared in purported to their corre- ne exception ioned above, however, as papers, the )rovided that 1 the public aded in large IS : " Captain " Certainly, iducted upon those wliich . to one like seem, to say heir personal >., our Consul years in his juiotcd from iging, and it myself of his ^ed a message iving thither ed under tlie THE PRESIDIO. 287 .same footing as a merchant vessel. I explained to the collector that private yachts were always exe apt from this regulation, and that we ranked as an English man-of-war. He refused, however, to accei>t my statement, and I was obliged to obtain a certiiicate from tlie llritish Consul to that effect. Even when T returned to the Custom-house armed with this document, the collector still refused to comply with my desires, and the utmost that I could obtain from him was that he promised to suspend tlie matter until he had received instructions from Washington. Eor this purpose he despatched a lengthy telegram, in the course of which he took the opportunity also to inquire whether I was entitled to ship goods out of liond, and for this telegram he made me paj'. ( )n Tuesday, February 20, accompanied by Captain and ]\Irs G., who had arrived from Honolulu, we went by tram to the Presidio, as the headquarters of the cavalry and artillery troops stationed in San Francisco are called. The General in command was Captain G.'s own brother, who was delighted to welcome him back to San Francisco, and he also received us most hospitably and courteously as being his brother's friends. The barracks stood in the midst of a large extent of ground, most of which was very tastefully liiid out. The officers' quarters consisted of detached cottage residences, with gardens in front, all of which looked homelike and comfortable. I was informed that this was the custom throughout tlie United States, the Government always pro- viding the married officers with excellent quarters rent-free, in addition to which their ordinary pay is considerably higher than that of F^nglish officers. AVe witnessed a dis- mounted parade : the troops consisted of two batteries of artillery and one squadron of cavalry. These were drawn lip in single rank, and were put through their manual exercise, which was nmch longer and more complicated than ours, and in which they acquitted themselves remarkably in i; ' ( :'|V Ul; I I] 1 '■li,» m^ I I ! ! t lift Mi i ! I • 1 i I ! m . ; i •^i iili'l liJk! — wmi- \ f 288 A CHAPTER OF ACCIDENTS. well. "When this was over they marched past ir quick time, then wheeled into line, and ad vr, need in review order. The hand was niarclied np to tlie place where we were stationed, and, in accordance with (ieneral G.'s orders, they played " God save the Queen " as a graceful compliment to us. The band was evidently well trained, and indeed all the troops appeared to he excellently drilled, their dressing and distance being admirably kept. The cavalry wore yellow plumes in their helmets, and the artillery red ; and this, so far as I could see, was tlie only difference in their uniforms. On my return to the yaclit ' found that 11. ^LS. Icarus had arrived from Panama during my absence on shore. The following day, AVednesday, February 27, we spent the morning in an endeavour to kill off the rats which had been infesting the yacht ever since our departure from Callao, a, 1 which had increased in such rapid proportions that the nuisance had assumed the dimensions of a pest. Accordingly, we closed up all the hatches of the ship, and lit three fires of sulphur and charcoal below. AVe did not open the vessel up again till four o'clock in the afternoon, when the smell of sulphur became most overpowering. AVe were greatly dis- appointed at tlie result of our operations, for we could only discover seven dead rats. Alorc than this, a little black kitten, which we had got at Callao, and which we had rescued from a watery grave at Suva, had been forgotten and left below, and poor " Aliss M'Clean," as her name was called, thus met her death from suffocation. An unfortunate accident also hap])ened that day to Mr Xicholson, who, whilst going below to his cabin, fell down through an open hatch on to the ballast, and broke three of his ribs. After takinu" him olf to the Icarus, where he w as examined bv the ship's surgeon, I removed him to the Marine Hospital on shore, having obtained an order for the purpose from the British Consul. Holland, the sailing - master whom I had engaged at 1 EXHIBITION OF SPARRIXG. 289 quick time, order. The re stationed, they played nient to us. leed all the Llressing and wore yellow and this, so eir \niiforms. 5. Icarus had ire. we spent the lich had been from Callao, ions that the Accordingly, lit three fires pen the vessel u the smell of •c greatly dis- kve could only a little hlack I'hich we had jeen forgotten her name was in unfortunate icholson, who, rough an open is ribs. After :aniined by the le Hospital on I'pose from the ad engaged at Honolulu, now informed me, to my great regi'ct, that having been oflered a ship by Crauford & Co., in whose employment he had previously se.'ved, he liad decided not to proceed any further on the voyage with me. He had done his duty excellently during our passage from the Sandwich Islands, and I had greatly hoped to have had the benefit of Jiis services to the end of the voyage. However, I was fortunate enough to meet with another master without delay, for that same afternoon I engaged a certain Captain Carrington, who came to me witli excellent testimonials. In the evening I witnessed an exhibition of sparring at the California Athletic Club, the entrance being confined to the members of the Club and a few specially invited guests. The building was large and capable of holding a great number of people, and yet it was crowded to overfiowing. I was accommodated with a seat in the gallery, from which I had a first-rate view of all the proceedings. These commenced with two matches between amateurs, which presented no features of any special interest ; but at 9.20 p.m. the grand event of the evening came olf. Two professionals named respectively Zolinski of San Francisco and Joe Glover of Chicago had been pitted against one another for a consider- able stake. Four-ounce gloves were used, but for all practical purposes the pugilists might just as well have used their bare fists. The fight lasted for over an hour and a half, and was pronounced on all hands to have been gamely contested. It was evident, however, from the first, th.at Zolinski far outmatched his companion in science ; and only tlie dogged pluck exhibited by Glover enabled him to hold out so long as he did. In the end, when his second threw up the sponge, the poor fellow presented a terrible spectacle, whilst Zolinski had received scarcely a scratch. I had long wished to wit- ness a prize-fight, but from what I saw upon tliat occasion I should never desire to see another. As may be gathered from various incidental events during 2 i ™'f ' I ffj soidiiMHlia 200 CHANflES IN SHIPS CRP:\V If I ■\ 1 the lattev part of our voyage, several of my ship's crow liacl worked tlioinselves u]) into a very unsatisfactory condition of insubordination and want of amenity to discipline. T tlierefore determined, wliilst I was at San Francisco, to pay off some of the worst offenders ; and conse<[Uently on Thurs- day, February 28, I despatclied live of tlie old hands, and en^a^ed seven new men to take their ]>laces. From the experiences which I had gone through I had become quite disgusted with tlie class of men who had been serving under me, and nothing would ever induce me to attempt a N'oyage again with a Highland crew. In accordance with the advice of 'Mr I)., tlie Consul, I sent a police watchman on board the yacht to see that those whom I had newly engaged did not change their minds and run away. It is always the custom in San Francisco, when vessels ship a fresh crew, to employ these watchmen, who are licensed by the authorities, and who receive five dollars a -day for their services. It is necessary to engage them, because if a man once gets ashore no assistance is rendered l»y the police to recover him ; and when the watchmen are on board the sailors are very chary of making the attempt to leave the ship, because by the licence which they receive from the authorities they are permitted to fire upon them if they do. I 'i ii'il 294 RIVAL YACHT-CLUBS. r I !i Sausalito for luucli. Tliis place forms the lieadi^uarters of the yachting fraternity of San Francisco, and it is situated about seven miles from the city itself. Tlie Pacific Yacht Club have a liandsome building here, standing in lovely grounds which sloi)e gradually down to the edge of the bay. The view- from the verandali was one of the finest which I had ever witnessed in my life. Another yacht-clul», called I he " San Francisco," also had its quarters at Sausalito, but, though tlie older club, it was not so enterprising as that of the I'acific, and neither tlie situation of its buildings nor the size and beauty of its grounds were to be compared with those of the latter. The two clubs did not exist upon \e\y good terms, as many petty jealousies were rife between tliom. This charming wateving-place is also a favourite summer residence for many of the city merchants and others, and handsome wood-built villas are dotted about in all directions. After an excellent lunch at the Club-house we strolled about the grounds till tlie time arrived for our return to the city, and I was so charmed with the place that I decided to take my yacht over and have her refitted there. In the evening we dined at ]51aclv I'oint, the residence of (Jeneral M., wlio w-as in conunand of Uie Department of Columbia, and considered one of the ablest and most orilliant men in tlie United States service. He had seen a great deal of frontier WiU'farj against the Indians, and he treated us to many in- teresting and piquant anecdotes of his military experiences. He also showed us a great quantity of marvellous curiosities, with wdncli his house appeared to be stocked from basement to garret. It was commonly believed that he liad a very good chance of becoming some day Commander-in-Chief of the United States army. Tuesday, ^Marcli o, H.I^f.S. Icarus sailed at noon for Esquimau, Ibitisli Columbia, and we ourselves were towed to Sausalito, wliere we took up our position abreast of the Pacilic Yaclit (.'lub. A\'e liad scarcely droi)ped anchor before i i iiarters of s situated ific Yacht ill lovely :' the bay. fc which I lull, called ialito, but, itf as that Idings nor ■tared with upon \e\y feeu them, c suiunaer )thcrs, and directions, ve strolled urn to the decided to c. In the Jenei'al ]\I., nubia, and lien in the of frontier 1) many in- ixperiences. curiosities, 1 basement lad a very in-Chief of noon for were towed east of the ichor before IIEPAIRS ON BOARD. 295 the Commodore of the San Fi-ancisco Yaclit Club came off to tell us that a far better anchorage was to be found opposite to his club. This, of course, was simply owing to the jealousy wliicli 1 have mentioned as existing between the two clubs. T received liim politely, and quieted liim by saying that if I found my present position unsatisfactory I would certainly take his advice and shift to the other quarters. Tlie next few days were dull, chilly, and unpleasant. The mornings were raw, and in the middle of the day it generally rained heavily. Tlic operations of repairs on tlie yacht had been commenced, and I tlierefore took most of my meals at the I'aeific Club, of which I had courteously been made an honorary member. On Saturday, March 0, I went ashore after luncli and called on Commodore H., the head of the San Francisco Club, in returri for tlie visit wliicli he had made to the yaclit when we first anchored at Sausalito. I was interested to find that he was one of the oldest members of the Itoyal Thames Yacht Club, though he liad resided at San Francisco for many years. lie was then in the act of building himself a very handsome house on the hill overlooking the bay, and commanding a most magnificent and extensive view. For the next fortnight I scarcely left the sliip at all, as the weather was wretchedly bad, and I wished, moreover, personally to superintend the repairs which were ^''jing on. On ]\Iarcli 1*0, two of the new hands which I h.A shipped at San Francisco informed me that they desired to leave, and 1 therefore agreed to pay them ofl". ITaving done this I started by train for San Quentin, desiring to make the most of a beautifully line day. We passed through a lovely country, in the midst of which was San liaphael, the great country resort of San Francisco Inisiness men. Fiesidences here, as in all the fashionable suburbs of the city, were large and handsome, and appeared to be erected and to be kept up regardless of expense. At San Quentin is stationed the i ' m I 'I 4 !-1 n f » -v i V x\u BflM 296 VISIT TO PRISON AT SAN QUENTIN. m Goveriunent prison on the shores of the bay and about a mile from the railway station. Tlie inspection of tliis State prison was the main object of my journey, and on my arrival I was received with the greatest politeness by the otiieials, tlie cliief warder being told off to accompany me round the prison. I inspected the cells, in each of whicli two prisoners are confined, and from the first I was struck by the groat contrast which everything here presented to the perfect cleanliness and good order whicli I had remarked so strongly in the French Penitentiary at Xoumea. The cells and passages were extremely dirty, and in all respects the dis- cipline seemed too lax, the prisoners having evidently a comparatively pleasant and happy time. There were at the period of my visit about 1400 prisoners, who were under- going sentences varving from six montlis to life. Of these not more than 30 were women. The prisoners were leniently treated, each man being compelled to work only six hours a-day, the manual labour being ]»y no means severe. As soon as he has completed his six hours, the rest of his time is entirely his own. Some were employed on road labour, but the great majority worked in a large jute-mill, which was fitted u]) with the most modern machinery. AVe saw the prisoners at their dinner, which consisted of soup, bread, and a thick stew of meat and vegetables. Xone of the prisoners, who were dining together in an immense common hall, were restricted as to the amount that tliey ate, every man being allowed to have as much as he chose. After dinner, rations of tobacco were given out to them, and they were allowed books to read and games with wliich to anuise themselves. Most of those in prison had probaldy, nay, almcjst certainly, never been treated so well in their lives befort". IJesides this, the sentences were almost always largely remitted, and the warder himself informed me that a prisoner sentenced to penal servitude for life invarialjly received a free pardon after having done from eight to ten years, provided that he i^ T A HARD CASE. 297 1 about a tliis State iiy arrival e otilcials, round the » prisoners the great le perfect u strongly cells and ts the dis- vidently a Ycre at the rere under- Of these re leniently y six hours evere. As of his time L'oad labour. 1, which was Wq saw the ), bread, and lie prisoners, m hall, were V man beiny nner, rations ,vere allowed • tlu'niselves. jst certainly, )re. IJesides remitted, and sentenced to free pardon rided that he had not been guilty of any disorderly or unsatisfactory con- duct during that time. The only punishments inllicted were loss of marks, and, for very flagiant offences, confinement in a dark cell. The prisoners had, with this exception, free com- munication one with another, and no restriction was placed upon their talking and intercourse. Two photograplis were taken of every prisoner on his first admission to the prison, one in his ordinary clotlies :tnd the other in prison garb witli his hair cut. Tliere was a chapel attached to the establish- ment, and services of various d^-nominations were held there on Sundays, but attendance at theni was entirely voluntary. I talked to several of tin.' prisoners, and from one of them, at least, I heard a Nc-ry remarkable tale. He said that he was an Englishman, and that lie had served many 3'ears in the Lritish army : tliat he possessed medals for the Crimea, the Imlian Mutiny, aiul China ; that he had been in the 8th Hussars during the Crimean ar, and that lie had taken part in the famous charge of IJalai lava. His name was Thomas "Watson, and the warder corroborated nil that he said about himself. It appeared from his tale that after his discharge from the I'ritish army he had gone to San Francisco to join some relations who had settled there prcv'ously, and that three years before my visit to the pricon he had been arrested <»n a charge of picking pockets, and had been sentenced to six years' penal servitude. He assured me that the true facts were these: He had Ix'eu sitting beside a lady in an auction-room, and noticing a purse lying at her feet lit- stooped to pick it up, with the intention of returning it to her, when she suddenly turned round and accused him of theft. Trior to this charge he had borne the best of characters, and during his stay in the prison none of the convicts had been better conducted than he. It seemed to me a very hard case ; and e^■en supposing the charge were true, which tlie prison officials themselves very much doubted, a .sentence of six years' penal servitude 2 P S.M IM I i ii ■ i J" :'(t 298 TIBURON — ANGEL ISLAND. for a ,sin<.ile oflencti in the case of a man wlio liad hitherto borne an luibleniislied cliaracter did certainly appear to be outrageously severe. The poor fellow was completely broken down, and evidently felt liis position acutely.^ After lunching with the head warder, who showed me every politeness and attention in his power, I returned to Sausalito by nn afternoon train. The following Saturday, jNIareh 2'.], I cruised about the bay in the steam-launch, visiting in the first place Tiburon, a small village, whicli forms the starting-point of the Xorthern i'acific liaihvay to Cloverdale and places beyond. Thence we went round ^Vngel Isle past lovely scenery, re- turning to our yacht at half-past four. Angel Island is a military post, witli a small detachment of artillery quartered there. The barracks are situated in a pictur- esque and romantic position on a slope overlooking the bay. The next day I attended ]\Iass at the Catholic chapel at Sausalito : the building was snudl but pretty, and there was a fair congregation. The service was well rendered, but its length was considerably increased by the fact of the priest preaching his sermon twice over, first in I'ortuguese and tlien in English. It reminded me of tlie story in Dean llamsay's exquisite ' lienuniscences ' oi the little girl who, under similar circumstances, remarked that it was a " Ian" grace and nae meat." The we.ather was now gloriously fine, and t]i(! racific Yacht Club was in conse(iuence crowded willi visitors in the afternoon. Tlie following day was spent in preparations for a trip, which I had long ])laniied, up the Sacramento river in the steam-launch, and iq)on which I liad at length determined to start on tlie morning of Tuesday, 2Gth of March. ' I trunt my visit to the piir^mi resulted in soiiu; iii'iiotit lu Watsdii. An account of lii.s ciireor apiieared in tlic iiai)Ors next day, ami as a result a petition was got U]i and signed by many inlialntants of San P'rancisco, asking for a, free pardon for him. 299 I ! hitherto ar to be y broken owed me :urued to ibout the Tiburon, t of the iS beyond. ;eiiery, re- chment of in a pictur- ; the bay. ; chapel at . there was red, but its the priest ij^uese and y in Dean e girl who, as a lang the Tacific ;itors in the i for a trip, river in the determined •li. IP Watson. An (1 us a result iv rancisco, asking 2 CHAPTER XXX. A TRIP ON THE SACRAMENTO 13ENICIA WE RUN AGROUND .SHORT OF COAL ULACK DIAMOND VILLAGE — A PRIMITIVE HOTEL — SALMON CANNERIES RIO VISTA DRAWBACKS AND HINDRANCES A RIVER STEAMER MONOTONOUS SCENERY A DISAGREE AULE EXPEDITION SACIiAMENTC THE CAPITOL AND RACE-COURSE RETURN TO SAUSALITO BY TRAIN I'liESlI TROUBLES ON BOARD THE YACHT DEMOCRATIC INSTITUTIONS HASTY DEPARTURE FROJI 8AN I'RANCISCO A NARROW ESCAPE FOR THE SKIPPER A STORMY NIGHT ARRIVAL AT VANCOLVEIt ISLAND. March .IG-April IG, ISSO. T TOOK two men with me, starting at 7.10 a.m. Tlie weather was hazy, and it was impossible to see across tlie bay; conse- (piently after passing St Quentin we were obliged to steer for ]\Iare Island by compass. On our way we passed within two miles of the Government Dockyard and Xaval Dejjot, shortly beyond which the estuary began to narrow consider- ably, and we encountered a very strong o]">]iosing current and tide. Benicia, which we next passed, is tlie limit of naviga- tion for sea-going vessels, and the iiriucipal port for loading grain. Several Ihitish si ips were lying alongside the wharves as we steamed by. Five miles above this point the naviga- tion began to grow intricate and dillicult. There are many islands studded about the river in this district, ap.efore leaving lilack Diamond next morning, T was taken ifW EIO VISTA. ?,01 n-as ex- weve in y did oil' r before engineer bunkers ^ foolish mistake q^uite im- ce up the success- esting as I absence ) P.M. our at a can- in and his tliey had, a- it. The 3ut it was lead. We L- the junc- • M. A ; 1 there- l the night : primitive m, and the >d. 1 had th'jy, after uity of this le name by at the fuel not pay to iveral years. 1 was taken l»y the proprietor of the inn to inspect a sahnon cannery, the employees of which were chieliy Chinese. The actual tin- ning of the fisli was not then in operation, but the men were busily engaged in manufacturing the tin cans, many thousands of which were stocked in readiness for filling. The whole of tlie operations are carried on by machinery, and an enormous number of tins are daily turned out complete. The fish are put into tliem raw, after which the tins are soldered down and exposed to the action of steam, until the contents are considered suHiciently cooked. All along the river we saw numbers of these canneries, and from what the landlord told me it was evident that they had a large and remunerative business. I laid in a stock of coal at Black Diamond, and started on my journey at a quarter-past seven in the morning. It was a wretched day, the rain pouring down without intermission till lialf-past eleven o'clock, and everything in the boat Ijcing saturated through. Our experience of tlie coal soon con- vinced us that its evil reputation was well merited. It was almost impossible to keep steam at all, and a.s, in addition to this, the current was strongly against us, we made but little pi'ogress. Soon after noon, however, we reached llio Vista, wliich, next to Sacramento, was the largest place on the river, thongli its entire population did not exceed GOO iidiab- itants. There were, however, two hotels, tlie l)etter one of which was shut up, but I procured a cheap though indifCerent luncli at the other. Having purchased some coal and wood, we started again at l.oO, but at a quarter-past two the engines broke down, and we were obliged to stop three-quarters of an hour to repair them. AVhilst we were dou)g tin's, one of the river steamers passed us on the way down to San Francisco. She was a largr boat with a stern wheel, and very high out of the water. She had a walking beam engine, and a huge range of deck-houses. Xo sooner IkuI we proceeded on our course than rain commenced, and continued hard till seven ij iTi ■W- „ I ! r^si II 11! li'i rf nn !02 MONOTONOUS SCENERY. ) < [i|«! o'clock. The rivor c;rew narrower and the current stronger against us every mile that we advanced ; but fortunately the coal which we liad secured at liio Vista was of very fair quality, and thus we were able to keep up a good head of steam. Anytliing more monotonous than the scenery along the river-banks could not be imagined, the country being perfectly ihit, and the banks bordered on each side with tall willow-trees, which effectually shut out any view that there may by chance have been. The extraordinary absence of game and wild-fowl astonished me greatly. The land, how- ever, on both sides of the river was evidently fertile and ex- tremely well cultivated, fruit-growing apparently being the principal industry in tlie neigldjourhood. There were numer- ous small farms along the banks of the river, and at almost every one that we passed I inquired the distance to Sacra- mento, receiving strangi different replies in nearly every case. At nine o'clcck in the evening I discovered that the cur- rent was runniuL!; against us faster than we were makinsr headway, and tliereforc we anchored for a few minutes in order to enable us to raise more steam, after whicli we suc- ceeded in going ahead at the rate of about a mile an hour. At ten o'clock the engines again broke down, and tliis time the repairing occupied us upwards of an hour. However, we took advantage of this delay to boil the kettle and make some tea. At 11 p.m. we resumed our journey, being com- pelled to do so, as we could see no village where it was pos- sible to put up for the night. Fortunately the rain had cleared oil' at this time, and the night was pleasant and cloudless. "We steamed steadily on up to 4 A.M. next morning, when we anchored to wait for daylight, and to get^ if possible, a little sleep. A great number of fishermen were already out with their nets catching salmon, and shortly before anchor- ing we fouled one of them with the propeller, and it was only Piii«iR stronger ately the very ffiir . head of ery along try being with tall hat there hsence of and, how- le and ex- being the jre nunier- at almost 1 to Sacra- !arly every at the cur- are making minutes in icli we suc- jle an hour, lid this time lowever, we Q and make being com- 2 it was pos- he rain had pleasant and orning, when if possible, a re already out before anchor- ud it was only y. C •73 \ Ir , i 'J, o SACRAMENTO. 308 after a great deal of time niul trouble that we were able to get it clear. As I found any attempts at sleep entirely unsuccessful, we started aj^aiu on our course at a quarter- past five. AVe had expected, from all accounts, to liave been within sight of Sacramento long before this, and as wc steamed slowly up the rajjid and winding river it seemed as if we should never arrive at our destination. ]\lany a time T bitterly repented having undertaken the trip at all. Our coal agiiin became exhausted by eight (/clock. A fannhouse happened to be near at hand, and from the inhab- itants, who were very kind and jiolite, 1 obtained a sui)])ly of wooil. An hour farther on we came to a large brick factory, where I purchased two bags of coal, and took (jn board a man who wanted to go to the city. Our spirits were soon after revived by the sight of the town in the distance, and at last we arrived at Sacramento at a little before noon, having been two days and five hours upon the way. Tired, dirty, and altogether dissatisfied with myself and my fellow- creatures, I went ashore as soon as possiljle, and found my way to the CJoldeu Eagle Hotel. A hot bath and a change of raiment, followed by an excellent lunch, revived my sys- tem and my spirits, and I felt myself in a condition to thoroughly enjoy a stroll through the capital of California State. Sacramento is a handsome town of about 30,000 inhab- itants; but though it is politically the centre of the state, it is only the fourth city in size and the second in commer- cial importance. Tlie Capitol, which I visited, is a magnifi- cent building, standing in line well-ordered grounds, and is generally considered to be one of the grandest structures of this kind throughout the United States. It stands in an exceedingly imposing situation in the very centre of the city, and in the midst of a large open space. It is thus free from the crowd of other buildings, and its handsome proportions are well displayed. Another thing which struck me i)artic- « ! .■w.ia> i' ls)M- I i:! \ ii 304 AMKUICAN RAILWAY TRAVKLLINC. ularlv wiis tlic race-course, wliicli was larf^o and extensive, and iijion wliicli was a splendid pavilion which was :;aid to have cost over lUO.OOO dollars. The, streets, sh()])s, and houses of the city are all excellent in their way; few of the roads have any pavement, the side-walks hein,t,' laid down with wooden hoards. The hotel was one of the hest which I had visited since leaving En.yland ; ai.d from what 1 had so far seen, it appeared to me that American hotels were, as a rule, hetter conducted and more comfortable than those in Englaml or on the Conlinent. ][avin;j,' had ([uite enough of (he river on iiiy journey up, T sent the launch hack in charne of my two men, and rc- turneil to Sausalilo l)y train, leaving' Sacramento at 11. ."lO A.:\i. on the following morning, Friday, ]\rarch 20. The line ])assed through a country which, on the whole, was romantic and pretty. The landscapes on both sides were mountainous and well wooded, and occasionally we caught glimpses of beautiful valleys and streams. Tliere was only one class of carriage on the train, and this, I believe, is the general rule in America. According to my Knglisli ideas it seems an extraordinary and unpleasant arrangement ; and certainly 1 was by no means comfortable upon my journey, for the com- partment in which T travelled was exceedingly dirty, the passengers being of all sorts and conditions of men, in- eludinii- several Chinese. J]verv one was smoking, and the place reeked with tobacco, most of it of a strong and in- ferior (piality. We passed through Stockton, and reached the ternunus at Oakland at 5.15 p.m., whenci; I crossed to San Francisco in the ferry-steamer, proceetling to Sausalilo by the six o'clock boat. It was with feelings of decided relief and thankfulness that I found myself once more comfortably ou board my yacht. Troubles again overtook me on the following day, for in the morning the chief oilicer and the carpenter, whom 1 had but lately engaged, informed me of their wish and inten- FIJKSFI Tiiorni.KS ox M(>Ai;i>. 305 tiuu t(» Ic'vvi'. I refused to allow their (li.sehar^c, lieiiin' un- certain whether 1 should bo able to re])lace them. 'Hiey replied that being American subjects they were i)erfectly free to leave my service, as we wen^ in an American \)ovt, and that I could not kee]! them against tiieirwill. 'I'heyhad already signed an agreement for a three years' voyage, and as it seemed to me impossil>le that the law could allow them thus coolly to repudiate their engagement, I immediately went into the city and consulted the lUitish Consul on the matter. To my surprise he informed me that what they had stated was perfectly correct. In the United States articles are no protection to shipmasters, and a sailor can leave his Vessel whenever he chooses, being at liberty at the same il'iit. to sue the owners for any wages that may l)e due to him. On the other hand, the Consul informed me that [ could not have discharged them myself exce[)t by mutual consent. It seems incredible and scandalous that such a state of things should exist in a country which prides itself upon modern civilisation like the United States of America ; and if this is the result of democratic govern- ment, then all T can say is — I do not *hink much of a democracy. The launch arrived in the course of the afternoon, hav- ing accomplislied with the current as much in nine hours as it had taken us thirty to do against it. This ttay we received the news of the terrific hurricane at Apia in the Sainoan Islands, and of the wonderful escape of II.M.S. Calliope. On Sunday, March 31, the forecastle cook, who had been on shore tlie night before, came on deck in a wretched state of drunkenness, and began using very foul langu.age. A large number of boats were near the yacht, some of tliem containin 'ladies and childreri, by whom his remarks could be plainl} 'icard. I therefore ordered him below, but he bluntly refuse'' to obey my orders, and shouted his oaths 2 Q ' «-iJ' BMB HPIWI ■H m. wmmm ; I 30G A DRUNKEN COOK. ' >il ! \ '■ ;[■ Ml fi '': more loudly tlian ever. Xot wishing create a scene by puttinif the man in irons, T went ashore and brought off a l)oliceman, who removed him from the ship. Several others of the men then demanded leave to go ashore, and on my refusing them permission, they defiantly expressed their intention of going even if they liad to swim. As this in- subordinate conduct was not for a moment to be endured, I sent the chief ofHcer into San Francisco to get a police- watchman, and I myself stayed on board until his return, in order personally to prevent any attempt at their going ashore. Tlie whole aff'iir was exceedingly unfortunate, for the after- noon was lovely, and tlie ('lub-house was crowded with vis- itors, amongst wliom I should have been delighted to find myself, and yet I did not dare to leave the ship. At six o'cloelc, to my great relief, Mr Henderson, tlie chief otHcer, returned witli a watchman, soon after whic>i I landed. The following morning, ^londay, April 1, Saunders, the cook, who had been drunk and insubordinate the day before, was taken before a magistrate, Henderson and myself attend- ing to prosecute. The whole proceedings were short and in- formal in the extreme, Saunders not even being ordered to remove his cap, wliilst a constable in wliose custody he was lounned familiarly against tlie wall sniokinu' a lony ci^ar. Tlie magistrate, however, listened attentively to tlie case, and adjudicated most fairly upon it, reading Saunders a severe lecture, and lining him at tlie end twenty dollars. ]Ie was then ordered to return to his duties on board, and T hoped that his experience before the magistrate would prove a last- ing lesson to him. After the case was over I repaired to the Consulate, where I engaged two men in the place of those who had left my service on the previous Saturday, but un- fortunately I was unsuccessful in my endeavours to procure a mate. The next day I shipped i. '.other man and a boy, and after- wards went to the Custou) i, mse to clear my goods, which lilt. ■ene Ijy lit off a 1 others on inv d their tliis iu- nidured, I iiolice- itnni, ill ashore, le after- witli vis- l to 11 ud At six f otticer, Bd. ders, the ly before, If atteiid- rt and in- n'dered to ly he was )ng cigar, case, and ! a severe He was d I hoped 3ve a last- red to the e of those ly, but un- to procur(; and after- ods, which I- I CUSTOM-HOUSE RED-TAPE. 307 had been detained there. This was the sixth or seventh time that I had endeavoured in vain to get my articles through the Custom - house, and I was requested to return on the morrow. I'etween the crew and the red-tape of the American ofticials, my mind was nearly distracted during my stay at San Frar.cisco. H.M.S. Swiftsure arrived that diiy from the coast of Mexico flying the flag of IJear-Admiral Heneage, Commander-in-Cliief of the I'acific squadron. Tl>e :;"ollowing day I actually did succeed in finishing my business at the Custom-house, the dispute between myself and the oflicials being settled in an absurdly curious way, for though Jiey refused to allow me to ship my goods from England on board the yacht free of duty, they allowed them to be sent up to Victoria in Uritish Columbia on board a steamer in l)ond. 1 was careful to inform the collector in pretty plain language that an American yacht visiting Eng- land would have met with very different treatment. Xext day three more of the men refused to work, and I therefore decided to put out to sea at once wichout telling any of them of my intentions. I felt sure that as soon as we were really on blue water they would come to their senses, for I was certain it was their proximity to the city which made them so difficult to manage. I therefore went iisliore and settled up all accounts, bade farewell to the Consul, whose time and good-nature I had unfortunately been compelled to trespass upon considerably, and who, though he was courteous enough to say that he was sorry to [)art ■.vith me, could not, I think, have helped being relieved at my departure. Our chronometers, which were ashore being rated, were to hiive been sent on boanl without fail that day ; Init they did not arrive until the evening of the next day, Friday, April 5, thus delaying me again another day longer than I had in- tended. However, this afforded me an opportunity of engag- ing a male as far as A'ictoria, and on (Saturday, April 6, rw] S J ..if ■■M\ \ 'II ■ i' .■ "^"^^Saay^tmSmvu^SSSm .«■ KW'4J..AJM.' ' r.08 NARROAV ESCAPE OF THE SKIPPER. i| > I : we proceeded to sea in tow of a steam-tuj^' at lialf-i)ast five in the luoriiiiig. A nasty sea was on the bar, and we ]»hinged and pitched a good deal in crossing it. At lialf-past seven the tug cast olf and we set sail, speeding on our way at a moderate rate for about a couple of hours, when the breeze gradually died awa}', and at eleven we were tumbling about in a confused sea caused by the strong tide, and utterly un- able to make any way. However, a breeze again sprang up, and we passed between the South and Aliddle Faralloue!;' ut 2.30 I'.M. .V large number of vessels passed us during the day, some bound inward "nd others outward. I felt more easy now that we were free of San Francisco, my impressions of that city having been grievously marred by the trouble and worry to which I had been exposed. The men now appeared to have settled donn, and behaved in a decent and satisfactory niiinner. The weather was mild, but the air light and often calm, shifting at other times dead ahead of us, so that for the next five days we made very slow progress indeed. AVe were now bound for Esquimalt in Ihitish Columbia, wliich was distant from San Francisco about 760 miles. V>y noon Tliursday, April 11, we were still G44 miles from our destination, having thus made only a little more than J.00 miles to tlie good since leaving San Francisco on A])ril G. However, on that day a fine fair wind si>rang up, sending us along at seven knots an hour, and the next day we did loG miles. In tlie evening a trememhais gale came on, and in stountains rising to a heighi; of 4000 feet, thickly clotlied witli pine-trees up the greater part of their jides, whilst patches of snow were visilile on the higher peak.s. A large number (jf vessels, chierty American, were entering the Straits at the same time as ourselves, tlie ixreat maioritv of them being towed. It occupied us thirty-three hours making our way down the Straits, and it was not until G.oO P.M. of Tuesday, April 10, that we found ourselves once more at anchor, just opposite the naval dockyard iu Constance Cove, Escpiimalt. 11 ''!• ^ ''\ I. li \h wsBfrnm h it mn \. ]. 310 i CHAPTER XXXI. VANCOUVER ISLAXI) VIC rOHIA ::SQL"IMALT PI.KASANT DKAI.IXGS WITH TIIK CU.S;oM-nulSE OI'FICIAI.8 — II. M.S. fSWIITSUKK ANM) ICAHL'S — SPOUT OX VAXCOUVEll ISIAM) KAJ^T'iJ AT VICToIUA THE liOYAL JUIilLEE HOSl'lTAI, A vliU'KEl' - MATCH W K LEAVE I'OIJ .lAPAX — A SEVKHE .STOUM I.OSS or STKAM-I.AL NCH DAMAGE TO THE YACHT OLU WATKU-SIPI'I.V IfLNiS ^SHOI{T WE ALTER OUR COURSE A.NI) MAKK I'oR THE SANDWICH ISI.AND.S LAHAIX.V ANOTHER RKl'IlACTuRY SKAMAN THE l-.MIAINA- LUXA HEMIXARV OUR VOYAGE TO THE LADHoNE ISI.AND.ay Company took possession of it, ami founded the first town on the present site of A'iett)ria. TIu^ islaiul was con- stituted a Ihitisli colony in lS4'.t, was united to lU'iti.sh Columbia in 180G, and was finally joined to the Dominion of Canada in 1roduct is coal, the suj)ply of which is considered to be practically inexhau.stible. The avei'age out- wm II DEAUXr.S UllE AN1> VlCi'OHIA TC'U WH M-I.AUNCH SHOUT II ISLANDH I.MIAINA- [S LANDS Kucii in received The first Hudson the first was con- M) lU-ilish niiiiiion tit" in ie;!;:th, .1 iis Idtal U'V jiortiou The isliind lu'i,nhl of )f which is vciiiye out- lii ■ ^ 1 » i j ■, 1 ' *; w, ! i "'•tT^5''P •1 VICTORIA — KSQUIMALT. 311 put of Xaiimino for tlie live yoavs cndiii'L; 1SS7 was 250,000 tons var annum. The; climate on tlie wliolo is mild, the monthly mean temperature at Victoria beinj,' 08^ in December and 53 in July. The rainfall averages about 3G inches. The principal city is Victoria, with a population of 22,500 people, and it is prettily situated on the edge of a small liarbour bordered with quays, alongside of vvliich vessels of moderate draught can lie to take in and discharge cargo. The main street is wide, and the sliops seemed to me to be very good. The electric light and telephones were in full operation everywiuire throughout tli(> town. There was also a good tlieatre and an Knglis, hil), and altogether the town presented a prosperous and nourishing appearance. From many diHerent points, as one strolled tlirough the streets, lovely views were olitained right across tlie Straits. An excellent road, 4^ miles in length, extends frou' Esqui- malt to Victoria, crossing an arm of the harbour by a lofty suspension bridge about a mile from the latter town. Xearer to Ks([uimalt the road passi's through a thick pine-t'orest with Ijeautiful glimi)ses of landscajie. The village of ]vs([uimalt itself consists mainly of public- houses, most of which are unworihily dignitied by tlu; name of hotels. ^V small church and two stores appeareil to nie to complete the i>laci'. Tiie harbour is provided with a naval dockyard, wliich is an inunense establishment, containing vast stores of oidnance, and indeed it is the only ]»ritish naval arsenal on the western side of the Nortli racitic. Notwilhslanding this, llu' jKU't is absolutely nn[)rotected by fortilications of any kind whatever, and in the event of war would be hopi'UiSsly at the mercy of an enemy. It seems strange that no stcjjs shouhl be taken l)y the Imperial (iovcrnment to render such an imi)ortant station less open to attack. On the morning of my arrival I »h'ove into Victoria and went direct to the Custom-house. There I found that the '! '' i\ i- ■« liMi ''"^TW^ 312 H.M.S. SWIFTSURK. m goods wliich Iiad been despatched from San Francisco had arrived safelv, and I had no trouble whatever witli the Customs ofliccrs, a pleasant contrast to the dilHculties which I had experienced at San Francisco. After lunch I called upon the Admiral and officers of H.^M.S. Swiftsure, which was a fine-looking vessel, though equipped with an armament of muzzle-loading guns of quite an obsolete pattern. The next day Captain A. of the Icarus called ni)on us, and in company with him I went ashore and inspected the dry Esijiiiiihi/t harbour, Brilisk Coliiinbi., V ho represented the city in the Dominion Tarliament, and who owned several sailing-vessels, on board of which the majority of my late crew had obtained service. Easter Sunday was a miserable day, pouring with rain from morning till night. I attended service in tlie morning on board the Swiftsure, and heard an excellent sermon from the clia])lain. On Easter Tuesday the foundation-stone of the I'oyal Jubilee Hospital was laid by ]\Irs X., wife of the Lii'utenant- Governor. A grand-stand had been erected, drai)ed with fiags, and a guard of honour composed of blue-jackets was drawn up oi)posite the place where the stone was to be lowered. At a quarter to three the ceremony commenced by the singing of hymns by school children, whicli was followed by an address by the President. ]\Irs X. then read a short speech and was presented with a silver trowel, after wliich the stone was lowered into position and solemnly declared by Mrs X. to be well and truly laid. The dedicatory prayer, a hynni or two, and the national anthem, " God save the Queen," concluded the function, and in the evening a dinner was given by the Admiral on board the Swiftsure. The next three days were spent in stowing away the stores which had arrived from England, and in receiving and returning calls. 2 U k i iii 4', 4 i-l III iii i ,r '« Mf^^ \\ ■M > II Hi i I .- VI M\ ^\ II !ii ;U4 LEAVK FOR .TAPAX. On Satunlay, April 27, a cricket -inatcli was i)layiHl at lieacon Hill Park between the navy ami the town ; hut the weather was eohl anil (li.sa<,n"eeaV»le, ami a fresh wind was blowing, so that very few of the upper class of people were present. Tlie main body of the spectators who were on the .Ljround appeared to take far more interest in a game of base- ball that was going on in another part. This was the first time 1 had seen this game played, ami I confess I did not make much out of it. Fond as I am of cricket I did not remain long, for the cold and windy weather spoilt all sense of enjoyment. The navy sustained a hollow defeat. It had been my intention to proceed from Vancouver Island to Alaska, but I was warned a;fainst doing so, as the chances were very great that my men would desert in order to join the salmon-lishing ; I therefore determined to proceed direct to Japan. ^Vccordingly, after a few more days' stay at Esquimalt, during wliich the time was mainly occupied in social visits and entertainments, we got under way at 10 A.M. on Satur- day, ;May 4. Captain A. of the Icarus came oil to bid us good-bye before we sailed, kindly bringing with liim an im- mense supi)ly of books and newspapers. 'J'lie wiml was light all dny and we were frecpiently becalmed, but the barom- eter fell steadily, and in the afii-rnoon the weather became thick and there was every ap[)earance of a coming storm. I therefore gave orders to let go the anchor in Tarry liay soon after four in the afternoon ; but fortunately, during the evening the ominous symptoms cleared away, and after a (piiet night we started again at six o'clock next morning, favoured by a light and jileasant breeze. "We passed a great number of vessels in the Straits pro- ceeding in both directions, and it surprised me to see what an innnense amount of business and tratlic seemed to be direcited towards the port of Victoria. At 8 I'.M. we sighted Cape Flattery light, and at midnight we cleared the Straits. A SEVrilE STOIIM. 315 ivihI at l»ut tlie 11(1 WHS 10 were oil the (if base- tlie iirsl (lid not (lid not dl sense Y Island chances to join d direct (juiinalt, ial visits u Satur- o bid us 11 an ini- was light e baroni- r became i\g storm, arry ]iay y, during and after morning, raits pro- 10 what an le directed lited Cape lits. We had only been outside a very short time before it com- menced to blow hard from the S.K., and a heavy sea came on through which we were obliged to drive the yacht in order to get an oiling from the land, which we dared not hug i lo close on account of the dangerous lee shore. As we ]tassed through the heavy sea we shipped immense (piantities of water, which poured through the skylights, drenching all the cabin carpets and cushions, and doing other damage. At tliree o'chjck in the morning the jil)-boom snapped in two, the wreck falling across the bows, and an hour later a heavy wave uiishipiied the davit^; of the steam-launch, carrying it with all the gear attached away, breaking tlie stjuare-sail yard, and eflecting several otiier miiKjr damages. At length we were able to heave to about twenty-tive miles from land, under close-reefed main storm trysail and staysail. Shortly before noon the wind began t(j moderate, and by evening the weather was again calm and the barometer commencing to rise. We had now liefore us a clear run of about 41100 miles, Hakodadi being our point of destination. Tlie usual variations of weatlier were experienced on our passage, but nothing worth relating occurred until Wednes- day, May 22, when I made uj) my mind to alter our course and make for Yokoliama instead of Hakodadi, owing to the need of repairs to the yacht, after the havoc wrought by the storm which we experienced soon after leaviiig Victoria. We therefore kept on our new course until Friday, May .31, when, on opening the tanks to nu^asure the water that was left, we found to our dismay that they were not more than one-third full. We were then still upwards of IJOOO miles from Yokohama, and as we were not more than 570 miles distant from Lahaina in the Sandwich Islands, I reluctantly determined to make for tlie latter place, as it would have been a most disastrous circumstance if our supply of water should fail. The next day we were favoured with a strong breeze, Ihl '^-TfTJP •^cnea ?! |i _ 7 \ I il li ! 316 AXOTHKR RKFRACTOUY SEAMAN. tlioui^Ii il latluT lioavy sen kunckud us ubouL ii good deal, and we ran L'OG luiles in twenty-four hours. The next day we did 148 miles, and the third day 195, and at noon of Tuesday, June 4, we arrived and anchored at Lahaina. Shortly before getting into port, when I called all hands on deek, one of the men named Studart a[)))lied for liis discharge, refusing to work any longer. Consequently I landed as so(ni as we liad anchored, and called on the native magistrate, from whom I obtained a warrant against Sti.dart, and returned to the yacht accompanied by a policenum. His case was heard at two o'clock in the afternoon at the Court- house, and after having been severely reprimanded for coarse and horrible language against Captain Carrington and myself, he was ordered to return on board and resume duty. He neglected, however, to do so, and I was compelled to take out a fresh warrant against him, upon which he v/as rearrested ami locked up till the following day, when he \ as lined by tlie magistrate five dollars, with the alternative of ten days' hard labour. As he was unable to pay tlie iine he had to undergo the latter punishment, and I was not s lii (nl dual, lay 105, liored at allod all died for uoully I u) native Sti.davt, laii. His ic Court- oY coarse 1 inyself, ity. He take out earrested iiiied by ten days' 10 had to •ry to be icing the whalers, iVith the ;al of the ually de- self. In it it is a straggling 3, a Cath- and an ne as the tjre aidde- left were f interest in ihe neighbourhood was the Lahainaluna .si'ininary, wliich 1 visited on the second day of my stay at the iilacc. This seminary is one of the oldest institutions in the kingdom, and next to the Kamehanieha schools at IFonolulu it is the most important. It was originally founded in 1>S;'.1 for the ])ur- pose of training native teachers ; now, however, it merely fulfils the functions of an ordinary school. It is supported and maintained by the Hawaiian Government. The Vice- principal courteously conducted us over the estaldishment, and I was greatly interested in all the arrangements. There was ample accommodation for 100 pupils, l)ut at the time of my visit they did not exceed 50 in number, their ages vary- ing from twelve to nineteen, and the majtnity of them being boarders who came from almost every island in the group. The subjects taught included advanced mathenuitics, land- surveying, and navigation. The boys, who were bright and intelligent in appearance, were sunnuoned to the class-room for our inspection, and sang several verses in the Hawaiian language, in which they displayed a nnnarkable aptitude for music. In this respe;i they resemble llie greater part of the Polynesian race. The operation of watering proved to be tedious and expen- sive, for all the water had to be fetched in casks from a con- siderable distance, and it was not until noon of Thursday, June G, the third day since our arrival at the port, that we had taken in 1200 gallons at the cost of seven dollars. The supplies at Lahaina were also expensive, small turkeys cost- ing one and a half dollar apiece, fowls one dollar, little pigs four dollars, and beef eight cents a pound, whilst we were charged one dollar for five cabbages. At 1.30 p.m. we got luider way, steering our course for I'ort Sun Luis d'Apra iu the Ladroue Islands, at which I determined to call en route to Japan. The distance to this place was 3400 miles, and this we traversed in exactly one calendar month, reaching Port i I i 3 til-, 'p t '^ ' tpji' ill :U8 PORT SAN LUIS D APRA. San Luis (rA])ra on Friday, .Inly "i. Tlieie was absolutely nothing wliatuvur woitliy of lueution througliout tliis part of our voyage, even tho wind and weatlier being so monotonous that the record of one day's ])roceeding.s was exactly the same as that of another. On '.he v.liole 1 had not much occasion to thid fault with the crew, though I was considerably an- noyed at a gross piece (jf carelessness exhibited by some of their number, which cost the loss of the upi)er half of the starboard gangway, when we were about half-way across the passage. Some of the men let it go, whether deliberately or not I am unable to say ; but, instead of showing any concern at the mishap, they merely laughed as they saw it fall into the sea. At 2 A.M. of July 5 we sighted the island of Guajan, and at daybreak we were close to it, the island of liota being also visible. The appearance of these islands was curious and lemarkable, as they were formed of lofty table-lands topped with stee]) cliffs, which wei'e covered with vegetation and were of uniform heiiiht. At G a.m. wi> were abreast of Point liitidian, and at 9.o0 A.M. we hove to off the town of Agar.a. As the 'Sailing Directions' mentioned that a \nU)t could bo ab- tained there, we hoisted a signal, and after considerable delay a boat came off to us containing the captain of the port, a doctor, and other olUcials. There was, however, no pilot witli them, and they informed us that he would board us abreast of the village of Punto I'iti. These people remained with us about an hour, after which we ])roceeded on our course, tak- ing witli us a half-caste Englislnnan called "Mr Henry, who had been born in the Uonin Islands. On arriving olf I'unto Piti another delay occurred, but at length a native pilot came on board, and at l.'>0 r.M. we airived and anchored in 20 fathoms of water, about three miles from the landing-place of Port San Luis d'Apra. 1519 bsolutcly is part of inotonous the same I occasion ivably an- y some of ilf oi the across the erately or y concern t fall into uajan, and being also irious and ids topped tation and 3t of I'oint of Agar.a. )nld bo oh- rable delay the port, a l)ilot with ns abreast led with ns 2onrso, talv- lenry, who f oil" Pnnto ; pilot came lorcd in 20 luUng-place I CIIAPTI<:ii XXXll. TlUi r.ADnoXKS, on MAUIANA I.SI.AN0S---1'UXT() IMTI AOANA TUK SPANISH COLOXY I'OliT SANTA CUUZ A COCK-l'ICiMT A DANCIO Al'UA — niNXEK-l'AIMY OX THE YACHT Wir^D-DEEH HfXTIXd UEXEUOUS PKESEXTS • — .MAU--i)AY SAU. I'oU Tin'] liONIX ISLANDS — CO>iPf,ETinX OE OUU SKCOXD YEAh's voyage A HUGE SlIAUIv THE CoEI'IX ISI.AXOS THE UOXIX ISLAXUS A y.OTLEY COLOXY PEEL ISLAND I'OKT LLOYD .MY I'lHST EX- rElUENCE OF JAPAXESE LIFE A SWEDISH NATURALIST. Ju/lj C-^'J, ISiiO. TilE Ladrone, or, as th. v are olUcially called, the ]\Iariana Islands, are tiftccM in niun])cr, but only fonr of them are inliabitcd. Th, r were discovered b' ^Ma^ellan on March G, 1521, and called by liim Islas de Las Yelas Latinas; but they received the name 1)y wliicli they are still known from his crew, who called, them Los Ladrones on account of the thieving jiropensities of the natives. Their other title, ]\Iariana Islands, was given to them in 1GG8 in honour of Maria Anna of Austria, widow of IMiilip IV. of Spain, t.'ommodore Anson visited them in 1742, and remained for some time on the island of Tinian to recruit liis ship's company. Byron also called liere in 17G5 and Wallis in 17G7. Their total area is about 417 square miles, the highest altitude being 2700 feet. The climate is hot, the annual mean temperature at Guajan being as much as 81". The port, San Luis d'Apra, is of considerable extent, though I 11 ^ili \'i im ■t 1 i::i:::' H «^si;«p»»*'-*"'*w^ Honn^qpniwiiiM^M % vt h it :i 320 PUNTO PITI — AG AN A. (lanfferously blocked wiili coral - reef.s, in const enter tin- liailidur without a native pilot. The channel is narrow and intricate, and marked out by stakes. On the shores of tlie Iiavbour stand the villages of I'iti, Ajtra, and Suinny. I'unto riti, where we landed soon after coming to anchor, was a snmll village c(jnsisting of iibout a dozen houses, the majority of which were built of canes, and raised on wooden ]»illars aljout three feet from the ground. I was surprised to find that almost all the natives understood English more or less, ])ut r afterwards discoverei! that they learned the liinguage from the American whalers, wlio call there in January and February of every year. At 4 I'.M. the (lovernor's carriage arrived with his secretary in it, win mi he had most courteously sent to take us to Agana. The carriage was drawn by a pair of sturdy little Manilla ponies, about 10 hands high. The distance from liie port to Agana was about five miles, the road winding along the sea-shore and through the woods ; and the scenery reminded me fre(|uently of that at Tahiti. AVe crossed several streams of water l)y ancient stone bridges, and passed several villages on the way, arriving at the Governor's residence shortly Itefore live. T found him a handsome, aristocratic- looking man, and he received us with every token of liospitality. He placed his carriage entirely at our disposal during our .stay on the island, and expressed his readiness to assist us ))y every means in his power. He spoke French tluently, and I therefore had no difHculty in conversing with ban. Tlie follownig day we paid a visit to the hou.se of the secretary, who had invited almost all the Spanish colony to meet us. The only Kuro[)ean lady in tlie place was the Governor's wife, who spoke Knglish well, having received her education in the United States. She and her husband 1(1 THE SPANISH COLONY. r.^i iienco of tenii)t to lannel is On the Vpra, iuul o ancliov, ^uscs, the II wooden r^irised to iish more arned tlie there in r..M. the it, whom na. The Ua ponies, to Agaua sea-shore inded me il streams d several residence istocratic- token of ir disposal idiness to ke French eonversnig use of the 1 colony to was the \" received er huslxiud afterwards conducted u- on a stroll througli llic Idwu, ihe majority of the houses of which were of naiivo c<spital, harracks, e(tllege, and church, the Iast-name ') ') FOKT SANTA (MZ. f,'(;th(.'r iiiiKnintin,^ to M KiirojH'aiis. ln'sidcs wIkiim a Spiini.sli priest residod on each of lln- ollii-r ilirci' islands. The colony was viiry }»oor, liavin.Lj litllt; or no connnrrci', and intereoniniunication willi (In; oiitcr world was only lield once in three iiionlhs liy means of a steaiuer carrying tin; mails between (luajan and .Manilla. The cost to the Spanish ('i(jvernnu'nl of kec'iiing np thi'^ dependency is ui)wards of £10,000 a-year, and for this apjiarently they receive no retnrn whalevitr. On the nionnnir of Sunday, duly 7, 1 roweil in the dinny to Kort Santa Cm/, which stands on a small ishnid in the middle of the harhour, and is evidently one of the most ancient structures in the Ladrones, having hetin Ituill hy the Spanish shortly after thi-ir occupation of the group. The arms of Spain were carved over the gateway, with ji date below them, which was unfort\inately illegiltle. Three small brass guns were mounted for saluting purposi's, whilst six others of medium caliltre wi're lying on the ]iarapet, amongst these being two magnificent bronze guns, cast at Seville in the seventeenth century, and ornamented with the royal arms. Two nam were in charge of tin; fort, belonging to iht' detachment of artillery which was (piartered in Agana. After mv return from visiting this fort we had the honi'ur of receiving on board the (lovernor, his secretary, and the accountant-general, 'i'lu' I'rew of the (loveinor's boat looki d very gorgeous, dressed in scarlet and wearing caps of the sami! coloiu'. The ( ioverniir made a thorough inspection u our arrival W" saw .'icveral natives hmnnini,' alioui, almost every mie <>t' whuin was in iinHyos.sitin itf a cdck. The owners of these hinis wt" • apiiart'iitly trying; lo make u[) matches, hut the husincss sccmcil very listless, and little or no animation was exhihi'ed. Al'ti^r a lime, how- ever, two cocks wen,' jiitteil a_L;a . . or.e another, the li,i,dit hein.n very ([uickly over. The spurs with wliiy the nwiirr uf tiic winniiij,; hiid. In the evenin,!4 wt! went In a dame, wliirh is ij,iven e\('ry .Sunday hy the oflicers and ollieials. 'i'lie hulies were f-ir llie nio>t. pail half-castes, and were cciiaiiily imt w- markalile for iheir personal heauty. The next tiay was very showery, hut after lunch tlu^ weather elearetl sullieieiitly to enahle me to pay a visit to Apra, which was a consii/.ed village with a nice- lookiu;,^ chui'li. .Vt half-jiast live llie (lovcnior, his wife and t;liildren, the secretary, the il. horses, cows. )»ii;s, ami iiiuiltry, I'l'iiiied the >iiin-total of domestic animals, no slu'cp evistin^ I'll the island. Wild deer and ,L;oal> Were, howi'Vei, to he luuiid in certain [lart-. The natives are t on a h'W of the other islands of the 4'(aip. 'I'he iiexi day, acting; on the ( ioveriioi".-, advire and jier- missioii, I (letermiiied to try my hand at a little sport with wild ileei-. AeciU'din.uIy, at ()..'.(» A.\t. I Weill ashore, accoiii- jiaiiied hy the si-coiid mate and a iiaiivi' miide. .\ftcr wt' had walked soiiie little Way inland, I hi' do^s were put into a deep ravine covered witl' iirushwood, whilst we wt ri posted on til" hill oM'ilookinu it. Presently 1 hey set up a loud liarkin^, and a 'ji'iieial excitement eusiied : hut only a few wretched little hiwiis appeared, two of which weie ('iiuylit anil killed hy the doLj'^. Several other ravines were licateii in turn, hut ahsolutely witlaait success, for not a deer was started, thoiiLjh we eoiil : see their foolpriiils i|uile fresh i:; many places. The do^s worked \"vy hadly, and after haviie^ killed thv' Iwo little fawns appi'iired to take no further interest in the pioceediiijis. However, I tliiH"ouj,dily enjoyed the outin;4, i"i ihu cuiinliy was well ii« (iKNiaiOl S I'KKSKNrs. :52.j ■dill till' islii's oi tick'-* "it titliaccd, ■V siiiiill Uii1>li<)ii. iuriipt'iiii {'It' ux'd iMiiiltry, rxistiiiy; iT, Id li»' liy till' liciiin :i ViTsc Id M'ltiiirk- l Ulll'dl- triici' d|' diiio still and pi'i'- urt with , accdui- Altrr \vi' put illtd sot up a but diily icli wi'ic iiu's well' >v iidt a idl|ii'ints iry liadly, |h;iii'('iI td DWi'Vcr. I was Well wooded, and watcri'd with nnnicnuis strraius, wliidi nislicd down llic hillside and aloun the lidttdiu d|' the valleys, and a pleasant I'lesh hree/e was hldwiiij; all day, mi that tlinnuli the sun was lidt we siillered no iiiiiniveniencc!. "W'e I'elurned td the yacht in t! fierndun, and in the evenin,u we slmt the tianiniel, iiaulini; ii in hel'ni'e Ineakfast nil the IdUdwinL: nidiniiiL;. There were, hdwever didy a (•(niltli' (tf very tiny lish in it. I spent the al'ternouii in takiii,!,' ]tli(it(t,ui"a]ilis df the palace, the church, and the (IdVenidr's children. The (IdNcnidr hinisi'lf, as well as the ntlier dllicials, wi'ii! nidsl ^eneidus in inessiuLj itit'ts npdii us. Walkin^Lt-slit'ks made dl' nalise Wddd, carved slclls i'mni .Manilla, a jiair df hddis Wdin hy ihe Ks<|niniaii\ in the Arctic, and a veiy handsoine pair df walrus-tu.sks, were iiniony^t the JU'eseiits which we received I'ldiii tlieiu. Wi! were really ashanied and uiiwilliic^ td accept, all that they urj^ed updii ns ; hut, like all Spaniards, they Wduld 'ake iin refusal, and wduld Ljladly ha\ c de]irived theiuselves cf any- thiiiL; td which W(! ndiL'lit have taken a fancy. The Spanish inail-steanier I'tui dnan arrived fidiu Manilla that iiiorn- iii;^, ancliuriii,;,^ near the yacht; she was a sinal! vessel, net iiidre than ~{H) tens Imrden, and recci\t'd a snlisidy df :'.0(H) ddllars fdi' cNcry trip fidiu the ( IdMiiiiiienl, fdi- which she called at ^'ap in the Cardliiics dii her way td and frailey group, distant about 55 miles. Another island of the same group appeared on the horizon about five o'clock in the afternoon. A gigantic shark came alongside the yaclit this day, and all agreed that it was the largest monster they had ever seen. It must have measured from 25 to 30 feet in length, and was at least eight feet across the shoulders. The colour was of a bluish grey, dotted with large white spots: as I afterwards discovered, it was a shark belonging to tliat known as the tiger species, which is extremely rare, and indeed is only found in the Indian Ocean and Xorth Pacific. Two pilot- fish escorted him, swimming in front. We made several efforts to harpoon him, and to shoot him with a ritle; but unfortunately they were not successful, and after about an hour lie swam away, and we saw nothing of him again. THK IJONIX ISLANDS. ^27 2sy auonin [1. r .si)oed, the wind lie tenth liat time, itities of evidently , many of day coni- •ly mouth, of a large vh Island, about 55 cd on the L oirrantic all agreed seen. It li, and was ir was of a afterwards iwn as the ed is only Two pilot- ide several I ritle; but r about an ini agani. The Coffin Islands were so named from the cniuniinKlcr of a whaler whieh visited them in 182."' ; and tlicy Un\\\ the southern gnjup of the I'onin Islands, the largest of whidi is known as Teel Island. The Collin or I'ailey group consists of four principal islands bi'sides some smr.ller ones, all of which are barren, and many are mere rocks. Jlillsboniugh, the largest of the group, had apparently little or no vt'gi-tation. Its shores were bold and precipitous, iuid numerous large land- slips had evidently taken jilace recently. Xo signs of ha1»i- tation were visil)le as we coasted along the island, though from time to time we saw the smoke of (ires. Captain Ueecliey of H.]\I.S. Ijlossom visited the lionin Islands in 1827, and took formal possession of them in the name of Creat Ihitain. In 1830 a motle}' colony settled on I'eel Island, which up to that time had l)eeu uninhabited. This colony, which was connected with the whaling business, consisted of one Englishman, one Dane, two Americans, and fifteen Sandwich Islanders, five of the last-named being men and ten women. They claimed the protection of England, but the IJritish sovereignty was lun'er actually asserted over the islands ; and they were formally claimed in 1878 by the Japanese Govern- ment, whose right to their possession was admitted by us. Some few descendants of tlie original Uritish and Sand- wich Island settlers arc still to be found on I'eel Island, but the majority of the present inhabitants are Japanese, the total population of the group now numbering 14G0, of whom 840 reside on Peel Island. The principal articles of cultivation are sugar, indigo, maize, and vegetables, tlie first of which is by far th ) most important. The operations of crushing sugar-cane are primitive in the extreme, being chiefly done by hand, the few mills in existence being turned by oxen. The domestic animals consist of a small number of cattle and pigs, besides which, fowls, ducks, and turkeys are numerous and fine. The island boasts of one horse. ^ i ^i^fiiV:! )' i '' '' i f! f f « .'J 2 8 FIltST KXI'KltlKXCK uF J.U'ANKSK |,[Fi:. I >('('!•, ^'nats, iiiifl liofir.s an! fuiiml in tlu- i-^laiid in a wild state ; liiit they art' laiiidly liocnniin^ scan-i', a rowanl of 50 ccMls ))(i' licad Itcinn' pit'"' '•>' CIoVL-rnnirnt for tlicir di'strnction. Tliert! art! very few liirds updn the islantN. In <.'i;rtaiu seasons of llic year i^real nuinlx-rs ol" turtle freijuent tlio liarliour, and tlnse an; cau'^lit and kept in pens, tlieir llosh lu.'in'' sold for d cents a 11'. As niaiiv of tlio turtles \vei<'U from L'5() to .".."ii) lit. apiece, their values ranj,'t' from 2}, to 'Sh dollars. The sidaries of the .la[>ani'se oflicials aro miserably poor, ilie actin;^- (iovernor oidy rt'ceiviii<^ o2 yen or ahout C", l(),s, a-month, whilst the doctor is paid fifteen yen or I'l', Ss. a-nionth, and is not alhtwed to umlertake private work, lie is ol)liL;ed, moreover, to find his own medicines, 1ml for this he is allowed to charj^ti the patients 5 sen or 2d. a-(lay. Tilt; ]iriucipal harht)ur in Peel Lslaml is called Port Lloyil, anil it is really very heautiful, sturoundetl tin all sitles by hills clothed to their summits with cahbaue }talms and other trtipical vegetation, while at the entrance of the ptirL stand tint several conspicuous rocks of eurittus ami fantastic as- pect. The harbour is provitletl with a well-l»uilt, substantial stone wharf, at which I lamled soon after anchoring tm the morning of AVetlnestlay, July 24 : and accompanied by an interiaeter, I walkeil through the village, which was invis- ible from the harbour, being hitUlen anmngst the irei'S. The l»lace interestetl me greatly, it being my lirst i»ractical expe- rience of anything Japanese. It was prettily laitl out, the princiital street being ]tlauted on either side with trees, anil the stores and houses being beautifullv clean. An artilicial .stream, crossed by .several rustic l>ridgcs, ran through the village, completing the picturesqvie a]>pearance of the .spot. 'J'he acting C.Jovernor, U])on whom 1 called, was unac(|uainteil with English, but 1 conver.sed with him through an intei- l*rcter, and he received me with the greatest civility. Upon leaving him 1 visited the village school, in whit-h 1 found ...a CKOWDS OK .lArANKSK VislTolls. :'.lM) il .slati' ; •0 cent?* ruction. certain out tlio cir iK'sh s wt'ij^h L'i to 'Sh lisi-raMy ir aliout yt'U or l»rivato I'dicinos, 5 sou or rt Lloyd, sides 1)y lid otluT iri siantl aslic as- l)Stantial »rin;4 on ied by an as invis- ses. The eal L'xpe- out, the rees, and artilicial oiigli the the spot. 3(|uainted an inter- ). I'pou J t'ound ahout litly (.'hihlrcn, who \V(rt> luiiiLj taught a ,L;i'OL;ra]ihy li'sson. Compulsory (■(hicalion !> in xonui' on the island, \\h\ schools bein.i,' hvi' and inaintaiiH'd hy < lovcrnnicnl. I'',ii;^h>h is taui^IiL as a voluntary subject. On ihf shores ol' the l)ay I stoppecl to watch sunie boat-builtjers jit work: their tonls aiul nuxles of laliour ditl'ered ('onsi(k'ral)Iy I'loni those to wliieh wo arc accustomed. At a small stoic, the Hour oT wiiieli was covered with beautiful, line, and seiii|puIously clean mattin,L', Ipurchaseil some specimens of .laiiane-e pipes, curious littlo thinL!;s with bowls no larger than a pea, some of them made entirely of mi'tal and some having bamboo stems, Tlie ap[iearance of my yacht cri'ate(l yreat excite- ment anioneiSt the .lapanose, for I was tne lirsi that iiad ever put into the harltoiir df I'dil Lloyd. They came oil' in crowds to visit Iiei'; but 1 can liear testimony to the fact that tliev Were all exceedingly orderly and wcll-lu-haved. In the aflei'uoon I walked uj) to a small Uuddhist temple upon a hill overhtokini^ the harbour; but I was disappointed with my visit, for the jilace was fast fallin.i;- into decay, and there was absolutely nothin;4 »jf interest to lui seen abnut it. On the followin;j,' day I went across in the ferry-boat to a village on the eastern side of the harbour. The shape of the Iioat was somethinn likt; a |)unt, and it was rigged with a big lug-sail, it would not go to windward, and therefore when the wind was not fair, the ferryman sculled it by means of a huge sweep, svorking on a pin aft. The feiry- man had a couple of daughters, bright, bonny little things of about eleven or twelve years of age. I'hey begged so eagerly to be allowed to visit the yacht that 1 took them back with me. Their excitement when they had got on board was in- tense lieyond description, and it was the most amusing thing in the world to see them running about and examining every- thing without the least shyness, yet without forwardness. The Jaj)ancse, from what I saw of them in this island settle- ment, appeared to mo to be one and all the most marvellous 2 T ! II <:jjl IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TA'^.GET (MT-3) V / O •^ -^4^. y ^ /A i 1.0 I.I 1.25 IIIIM IIIM Ilia i^ IIM '""^ iM mil 2.0 1.4 1.6 i V] <^ /i cr-] w <9^ 'W o ^ / Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 W6ST MAIN STREET WEBSTER. N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 Wj &>< Q- W, i Il|> II >' j!i Vt ill: ' }■ I i i 1: i !. I:i- 1^ 'III 330 A SWEDISH NATURALIST. specimens of unaffected naturalness that 1 liad ever met willi anywhere. "We found a Swedish naturalist, called Mr II., staying upon the island. He had heen tliere for the last three months collecting birds, but had only obtained twenty-tive dilt'erent species ; and he told me that he was convinced that he had exhausted the number existing on the island. ever met .-» O 1 'ing upon B months dilierent at he had CIIAPTEE XXXIII. A JAPANESE GOVERN'OR A CURIOUS CAVK HOUXH I'Olt JAI'.VX SIWO POINT THE KII CHANNEI. ISIMI STUAITS KOIiE A RIDE IN A JINRIKSHA — A CURIi i->jHOP THE EUI?OPEAN QUARTER HIOGO A .TAPANESE TEMPLE EXTORTIt>XATE PUK'ES A FAIR IN UIOGK AiUJlMA HOT BATHS IJASIvET-WOlilv — A KAXaO KIOTO A SERIES OF INTERESTING TEMPLES — A JAP- ANESE THEATRE AN ACROBATIC rERFORMANCE— OTSU — LAKE lilWA ISHIYAMA A CELEDRATEL) TEMPLE OSAKA A TEMPEST. JuJi/ X-AuyKst 1$, ISSCi. 1^1 !l 1 n ■' Ox Friday, July 20, I received a return visit on board the yacht from the acting Governor and the Paymaster at Tort Idoyd. The Governor was attired in Japanese costume, with a bhick silk ovei'-cloak, mi which were several circular white patches : these, I was informed, were the distinguish- ing marks of the particular clan to which he Ijelonged. The general eft'ect of his appearance, however, was somewhat marred by a very seedy European billycock hat which he wore upon his head. He displayed a very intelligent in- terest in all that he saw upon the ship. An hour after hi- departure I called to say (!ood-bye, ac- companied by Captain Carrington, and he gave us each a neat cigarette-case which had been made upon the island. I also obtained in the village some wood peculiar to the island, and afterwards went in the dingy to examine a cu- rious cave in South Head, the entrance to whicli was wide '^' . .1' i o o o SIWO POINT — THE KTI CHANXEL. and spacious. Inside, tlie hei.nht of Uio cave was GO or 70 feet, and at tlie farther end was a small hole leading out on to tlie beach on the other side of the point. The cave had thus two entrances; the water inside was reputed to he exceedingly deo]). In tlie evening we shot the trannnel, and the next morn- ing hauled it in before breakfast, when we discovered that we had captured a shark about four feet long, besides a great nundjer of tiny ones : with the exception of this, our only haul was a very diminutive bream. At a rpiarter to ten we got under way, a great nundjer of the Japanese coming off from the shore and volunteering their assistance in helping \m to get up the anchor. They all gave us a hearty farewell and sped us on our way. In the afternoon we sighted Buckland and Stapleton Islands, and later on the I'arry group. Our next port of destination was Ifiogo, on the 8.E. side of the central island of Japan. Its distance from I'ort Lloyd was ab(jut G30 miles, but the weather was so calm for the next few days that we made very little progress, and though we had left I'ort Lloyd on Saturday, July 27, we did not sight Siwo Point mitil daybreak of Tuesday, August G. This point lay at the extreme south end of Xipon, as the central island of Japan is called, and at the commencement of the entrance to the Kii Channel, which sepan.tes Xipon from the island of Sikok. The scenery was extremely pretty as we itassed up this channel, the hills on both sides were high and well wooded, and there were numerous villages along the shore. The channel itself was covered with fishing-boats and sevcnal large junks. The latter ai'e very peculiar-looking vessels, with huge stj^uare sterns towering above the water, and they are usually rigged with an enormous square sail, the cloths of which are laced together. Several steamers also ])assed us, most of them Hying the Japanese ensign. r _ ISUMI STRAITS— KOBE. .1 11 o At G TM. on August 7 wo passed tlirougli lliu Lsuini Straits and entered the inland sea. Soon afterwards tlie wind died away, and at 10 P.^r. wc were becalmed aliout 10 miles from •]Iiogo, the light of which was plainly ^■isi!lle to us. Shortly before daybreak the following morning a nice breeze sprang up, and we came to anchor ofl" Kobe at 7.15 A.M. Kobe is the Euro])ean settlement of ITiogo, fr(»m wliicli it is only separated by a dry river-bed. In front of ilie harboui is the I'oreign Concession, behind whicli lise well-wooded hills to a height of over 2000 feet. ( Uir arrival in tlu! harbour was the signal for the appearance of a perfect fleet ;augos are used cliietly where the roads are impractieahle for jinrikslias, the native name of wliich is larHmn. There were four bearers attach('(l to my kango, and they relieved one anotlier at frequent in- tervals ; 1 was astonished to see the rapid [)ace at wliich they went up precipitous paths. We crossed the mountains at a height of about 4000 feet, and throughout the whole distance the scenery was most magnilicent. Soon after G P.M. we reached the railway station at Suniiyoslii, on tlie main line from ]Ii(jgo to Tokio. Here I took the train for Kobe, reaching the yaclit at a quarter to seven. We were \isited by a tremendous thunderstorm on the following day, and we spent UKJSt of the time on board the yacht. In the evening we dined at the Consulate. Thursday, August 15, was a lovely day, and I took the op- portunity of visiting Kioto. This place is situated on the road to Tt)kio, and is famous for its wonderful tem])les. The journey from Kobe by train occupietl nearly three hours, and on arrival at the station I drove to the Ya-ami Hotel, which was situated on a hill overlooking the town. All its arrangements were conducted on the European style, and 1 found myself most comfortably accommodated there. Having obtained the services of a native guide, I set out in a jhiriksha after lunch, visiting in the first place the Chi-on-iu Temple, which dates from the twelftli century. The carvings and decorations of the temple were very elaborate, but '1- chief attraction is an enormous bell, weighing 74 tons, and measuring IS feet in height, 8 feet in diameter, and 9^ inches in thickness. Thence I was conducted to the Yasaka pa- goda, which is constructed in the Chinese style — a work of which there are scarcely any other examples to be found throughout Japan. The temple of Daibutsu, which I next 2 U ! I 1 I ; J *' a' ' ' - K !M ! 1i| f ill •t ! ■A h L \ 1 I J 1 IfHJ 338 INTERESTIXf) TEMPLKS. visitod, receives its name from a Japanese ,i>o(l, a gigantic image of whom stands in the temple. At the back of this image a staircase has been constructed, and on ascending tliis, one gets a very good idea of the immense propor- tions of the figure. It is made of wood, and is compara- tively modern, having been constructed in ISO! to replace the former, which had been destroyed by lire, and which was reported to have been of very ancient date. Our next object of visit was the temple of San-jiu-san-gen-do, which was built in 12GG, and contains a thousaiul images of the goddess Kwan-non. These, which are each five feet in height, are carved out of wood which is gilded all over, and are arranged in ten tiers one behind the other, each im- age having hands springing out from its body in all direc- tions. According to my guide's information, the goddess Kwan-non was supposed to liave had eleven faces and a thousand hands, and each of these images is intended to represent her. The j^ietv; de rdddancc at Kioto, which my guide reserved for the last, was the temple of Xishi Hon-gwar.-ji, the principal gate of which is never opened except to admit the Mikado. This gate is magnificently carved with designs of chrysanthemum flowers. The temple was built in the thirteenth century, and is one of the most celebrated and wealthiest in the empire of Japan. It con- tains a vast number of suites of apartments, the walls of which are most exquisitely painted. The decorations of the temple itself are gorgeous beyond description, and around it is a lovely garden, laid out in Japanese style with ponds, rustic bridges, dwarf-trees, and so forth. This temple is a favourite place of pilgrimage for the emperor and nobility of Japan. Up to the time of the restoration, indeed, Kioto had for many centuries been the chief residence of the Mikados. The palace, which still exists, cannot be visited without a special order from Tokio, and I was therefore unfortunately prevented from inspecting it. T A JAPANESE THEATHK. O O A ,t.)\) )(1, a ,ni,L;untic l.)iick of this oil fiscoiulin":'' k;iis(j pi'oi)or- l is c'oiuixu'ii- 01 to lopliice e, and \vliicli t (lute. Our iu-saii-geu-do, usuiid images cli iive t't'i't in . all (ivor, and ler, each ini- in all diiec- , tlie goddess faces and a 5 intended to Kioto, which iple of Xishi never o})ened niagnilicently The temple e of the most pan. It con- , the walls of )rations of the , and around e witli ponds, s temple is a and nohility indeed, Kioto deuce of the lot be visited kvas therefore Kioto is a curious old city, the streets of which arc extremely narrow and sh()[)s inconvenienlly small. No for- eigners are permitted to reside in il, as it lies htyond special treaty limits. IJesidcs its historical interest, as liciug the former capital of the Mikados, Kioto is noted for its ]iorcc- lain-works as well as for the manufacture of silks, carjtets, and hrocides. In the cvciiiing I diovc through the crowded streets, which presented a gay and animated scene, and after- wards visited a wonderful acrohatic performance, thence ])r()ceeding to a theatre where all the ])arts were taken hy women. The piece was supposed to lie very good; but as, of course, I was unable to understand a single word that was said, I soon grew weary of what was to me mere dumb show and returned to niy hotel. The two sexes are not allowed to act together in Japan, and in most of the larger towns there are at least two theatres where eacli sex performs separately. Xext morning I visited another temple, whicli is called by the name of Xan-zen-ji, ami the most striking features of which are the paintings on tjie walls and ceilings. The greater part of the day was s\)Qnt in visits to the curio shops, where 1 purchased a large nunilier of ivory netsukes, many of which were beautiful specimens of carving in (piaint designs. Tliese netsukes are used by the natives as tags to hold a pipe or tobacco-pouch iu the girdle. I was very anxious- to witness the operations of laccpier mk] enamel manufacture ; but unfortunately it was holiday time when I was at Kioto, and the factories were closed, so that I was unable to witness the process. In the evening I again visited the acrobatic performance, which I thought even more excellent than on the previous night. About seven and a half miles from Kioto stands the city of Otsu, on the shores of Lake Biwa, and this we visited from Kioto on Saturday, August 17. The journey was made in a jinriksha, along an exquisitely pretty road bordered with tea- gardens, and the distance was accomplished in an hour and I.I f. f ;V ill - ^ I ' \ Pf Is 'h 340 UTSL' — ISHIYAMA. a (|iiail('r. Olsu, lliou^li a city of (■(nisidorable si/e, a])peart'(l to iiic to lie very iiiiiiitcrestiii.u, tlii' only ]ilacii at all worth visitiiii^' bt'iii,^' the tciiiph! of Midcra, which stands on an ele- vation ovi'ilookin7 miles long and 1 1! wide, its shores 1 icing studded with inunerous villages and towns, between which steamers ply twice a-day ; on the lake itself are nu- n)eroiis islands. As we did not think Otsu suUiciently inter- esting to s])cnd the whole day there, we continued our drive lo tlie village of Ishiyama, still accompanied h} l'j guide. This village was six miles Ix'yond Otsu, ov the hank of a river llowing out of Lake JJiwa. At a heaiUifullv clean tea-house, and in a room overhanging the stream, we had an excellent lunch, which was rendered all the more enjoyable owing to the lovely view from the window lieside which I sat. AVc found an ICnglish artist stopping at the inn, who had been there for some length of time sketching the beautiful neighbourhood. At Ishiyama is a very celebrated temple, which we visited, and which stands at the top of a long steep ilight of stone ste]is, in the midst of extensive grounds, approached by an avenue f)f maple-trees. In the grounds are some large and remarkable black stones, around which are planted shrubs and trees. The temjde was founded in 749, but the present building only dates from 1178. From the grounds of the temple we obtained another most glorious view of the river and lake. Shortly before four we left this lovely spot, reaching Kioto again at G p.m., after a most thoroughly enjoyable day. In the evening I visited the acrobatic performance for the third time, and I must confess that I was not tired of it. The next morning was very wet, but notwithstanding we travelled back to the town of Osaka, which is an hour distant from Kioto. There I found one hotel, professedly European, called Juitie's Hotel, but it was a remarkably thi'd - rate establishment. m I size, appeared fit all worth els oil ail elc!- ficent view ot" ide, its shores ,vns, lietween tselt' arc lui- cieiitly inter- ned our drive li\ .'■ nuide. le hank of a itifully clean 111, we had an ore enjoyahle 'side which I inn, who had the beautiful ■ated temple, )p of a long si\'e Lfroiinds, the grounds round whieli founded in 178. From uost glorious lour we left after a most visited the must confess istanding we hour distant ly European, y thii'd-iate b •J \ .;! I I i ;:ni w !.: lit ill 7 OSAKA. 341 Osaka is famous for its castle, which is a lin1. He wns I had any From all I lie great ras- licir masters. t one should ly necessary u the more ke of inter- ikeepers are lud without ) live chiefly ! train again ^ards passed some broad ^r., a couple rove to Ota ;he faro one le town, and saw nothing •f interest to . to lunch at I most com- xt ten miles Y was some- last two we . for a short the summit the natives is again the I ill we came river Kiso- EFFECTS OF A HEAVY GALE. O-lt fjawa, which was rushing along through a narrow channel beneath lofty dill's. After passing for some little distance along a level road through a pine country, our progress was I'iillcy oj the Kisoga'ii.%ifrrw ;l If! ii t i I r 1 ■ i 'If 3 III! '.i,l! :!t : 11 >i 348 OTA — MITAKE. bodily off and deposited uniujurud about 50 yards away. Wo liad intended to spend the night at Ota, but as we reached tliat village at four o'clock, and the sun was still high in the sky, we decided to push on another stage, more especially as there was absolutely nothing of interest to detain us at Ota. Tt was a small place, consisting of one straggling street, and we only remained there long enough to have a cup of tea and to give the coolies a rest. Half a mile farther on we crossed the Kisogawa in a ferry. The river at this point was very rapid, and the boat had to be towed along the bank to a considerable distance above the landing-stage, in order to allow for the current. ()n the other side of the river the road passed through a well-culti- vated valley to the unimportant village of Fushimi, through which we passed without stopping, thially reaching Mitako at 6.."j0 p.m., where we halted for the night, having travelled 26 miles from Oifu. Darkness was quickly gathering when we entered the village, and therefore I was unable to see anything of the place. We put up, however, at an excellent inn, where I again was accomniodated witli a nice room look- ing into a little garden. A good supper was provided for me of fowls and cg^^s, and I slept comfortably on a Ja]")anese bed, consisting of a number of sofc quilts laid one on the top of the other, though I found the i)illows very small and hard. There was something very pleasant in the novel experience of these simple and luisopliisticated Japanese tea-houses, the keepers of which are so polite and so anxious to anticipate your every wish. Moreover, everything is always beauti- fully clean, and over ami over again one had cause to be thankful that one was travelling through Japan instead of an equally out-of-the-way part of Europe or even of England, ])y half-past eight next morning, Friday, September 20, we were once more upon our way along a road which at first was in fairly good order, but which soon became exe- crably bad. Xotwithstandiug this, it was considered the A SERIES OF MISHAPS. ■CVJ f'.irds awny. Ijut as we in was still * stage, more interest to itiiig of one ong enougli •St. Half a ferry. The t had to be c above tlie It. On tlie I well -cult i- mi, throng] 1 ing Mitake iig travelled lering when able to see ui excellent room look- ided for me a Ja]ianese on the top 1 and hard, experience houses, the • anticipate lys beauti- ;ause to be instead of )f England, tember 20, I which at ecame exe- idered the ^1 I liest in the district, and had been ()[>ened in 188l'. Wliat the former road must have been one can scarcely imagine, for this, besides being fearfully steep in parts, was cut into deep riits and covered with loose stones. The scenery was very wild, a peculiar feature being a number of remarkable black rocks. AVliilst descending a steei) hill the jinriksha carrying the luggage upset, and though the bi.ggage, fortu- nately, was not damaged, the carriage itself was consideraljly smashed. Again we came to a bridge which had been washed away by the stream, and we were compelled to make a con- siderable detour before reaching Kamado, where we halted for lunch. Here we hired another jinriksha to replace that which had been damaged, and resumed our journey at L.MO r..M. After proceeding for some distance on a road still bad and uninteresting, we passed in succession through the vil- lages of Ogi-shima, Taki-ori, and Oi, the last-named of whicli was considerably larger than the others. Shortly after pass- ing this the guide's jinriksha was u]iset, but luckily no dam- age was done. At G r.'SL we reached our night's destination, a small and uninteresting town called Xakatsugawa, where we saw evidence of the enormous destruction which had been caused by the rising Hoods. The river had suddenly come down in a huge body at ten o'clock at night, carrying away a bridge and a large portion of the road, as well as seventeen houses. Fortunately the inhabitants liad had some warning, and had cleared out, so that no lives had been lost ; but the damage to property was most severe, for where only nine days previously there had been crops and houses, was now tlie bed of the river, and the Innd around was covered with stones ami boulders whicli had been brought down by the Mood. At tlie last house of the one long street whicli forms the town of Xakatsugawa we found the inn where we were to rest for the night. Of this I had formed great ex- pectations, for all day long my guide had been enthusiasti- cally expatiating upon its wonderful excellence. To my dis- 1 1 ! > i ill. •'1' ■ I jIM :;; I!: '' ! = 1 n II i I! !50 AN UNSATISFACTOIIY INN. gust 1 found that, instead of tlie nice, clean, Japanese liouscs at wliicli I liad liitherto made myself so comfortable, this inn was one Avhicli liad tried to coj»y European methods ; tlie result bein,n' that the tloor of the room was covered with a faded, vulvar, second-hand Eniilish carpet, and on the table was a dirty clotli ; the whole appearance of the liotel impress- inf;- one with the idea of an unsuccessful attempt at aping that which was contrary to natural instincts. It is just the same with regard to those inns as it is witli regard to mat- ters of dress; in so many countries in the East one finds nowadays the Orientals copy the Euro])eans in their costume, the result being a hideous compound, most dis])leasing to tlie eye. It is a great pity that the natives do not know how much pleasanter, more picturesque, and more becoming it is for them to stick to their own fashions and costumes, and not to try to copy foreign ideas to wliicli tliey are by no means suited. The following day's experience was wretched in the ex- treme, for the rain came down pitilessly from morning till night. AVe left Xakatsugawa at 7.15 a.m., having hired two pack-horses, one for the guide and tlie other for the baggage, as wc considered this preferable to jinrikshas, owing to the badness of the road. As for myself, however, I chose to stick to my jinrikslui. The road again led over a hilly country, but the path seemed to me a good deal better than that of the day before, and the scenery was decidedly prettier. At 8 A.M. we reached a small village called Ochii, half a mile beyond which was another bridge which had lately been washed away by the flood. After a steep climb through a forest of pine and yew trees we reached an eminence, from which on a fine day the view must have been lovely ; unfortunately for ns, it was marred by the weather. The next village which we reached was pictur- esquely situated on the side of a hill overlooking a deep valley, and surrounded by lofty mountains. On terraces iipanese liouses infortublc, tliis 1 iiictliods ; tlic covered with a 1(1 on the table hi)tel inipvess- leiiipt at iipiii,!^ It i.s just the regard to inat- Ivist one thids 1 their costume, ^jileasiuL;' to the not know how becoming it is . costumes, and ;hey arc; by no ;hed in the ex- )m morning till aving hired two for the baggage, is, owing to the ver, I chose to 'd over a hilly leal better than was decidedly ige called Ocliii, itlge which had r a steep climb we reached an iew must have marred by the led was pictur- flooking a deep s. On terraces MAGOME — TSU.MAflU. 351 raised one above another on the hillsides rice wns culti- vated, and everything gave the ai>pearance of industry and fertility. The village was called Alagftme, and it stands midway up the ascent of a pass to which it gives its name. Inimensi! quantities of magnilicent limber abound in the neighbour- hood, adding considerably to the beauty of I lie scenery. Amongst the paddy couM be distinctly seen the traces of wild pig and deer, which are very numerous in t!ie district, and do considerable damage to the crops. After surmounting the top of the jiass at half-past ten in the morning, we descended by a steep though tolerably good road to the village of Tsumago, Here again we found two l)ridges washed away, and indeed it seemed to be (piite the excejitiou to find one standing whole. "We had only bar- gained with the men whom we had engaged that morning to take us as far as this place, and they absolutely refusetl to proceed any further, whilst the coolies of the village asked an absurdly exorbitant price. At length, after appealing to the police, who were most obliging and useful in their assistance, we managed to ibtain a cart and one Jinriksha, with which we renewed our journey, after having lieen delayed for about two hours. The road again became wretchedly bad, but the scenery was in my opinion liner than anything 1 had ever seen in all my life. We passed through the village of ^Mitono, and after travelling through forests and on the brink of an impetuous river, the path in some places being formed by ledges cut out of the side of the rock overhanging a gloomy and narrow valley, we reached Xojiri shortly before four. The guide, with tlie baggage, had been left considerably in the rear, and I had a long time to wait for his arrival. I Itegan to fear that I was picketed there for the night, and the prospect did not seem very agreeable, for Nojiri was a miserable little place, with a most indifferent inn At last, however, the guide turned up, •1 ' 'i i fii i\ j^ I l! : j 1 1 1 1 ■ i I ^ 1 k. 352 SlLlv-CULTLKK AT Sl'WAIlA. and we stiirtcil a.^iiiii at lialt'-past five, reaching Siuvara an luiur later, wlicrc \V(i lialt('(l for the ninlit. Sunday, Se])teniliL'r L'L', was a lovely day, thonuli very li<»t. Feeling rather I'atigued alter llie continuous journey of .several days, [ determined to taki; matters as easily as ]iossil)le. Accordingly, after breakfast I strolled through the village, which, though small and uninteresting in itself, was most romantically situated in an o|>cn ]iart of the v;dley, commanding a line viciw of the rivei'. A liltU; woo(len temjile was standing on a hill overlooking the village, and having climbed to it, \ olitained a line ]irosi)eet from the spot. An exten-i .e industry is carried on in the village and all the surrounding country in the rearing of silk-worms and tlie manufacture of silk. In almost every house I could ,see the i)eoi)le busily employed reeling oil' the s- Ik from the cocoons, and in not a few instances I saw them weaving it. As is natural in a silk country such as this, the mull terry- tree aitjieared to liave taken the ])lace of everything else. Shortly before one we left in three jinrikshas, and jiro- cecded on our way through scenery whi(di reminded me of parts of Norway, though certainly on a grander scale. This ])ortiouof Japan might indeed not inappropriately he termed the Scandinavia of the Ivist. Four miles from Suwara we crossed a river by a bridge, from v,-hieh we obtained a ulorious view of the great Koma-ga-take, one of the sacicd mountains of Jaitan, and much fre(^uented by pilgrims. After a couple of hours' journey we arrived at Agematsu, where 1 was compelled to remain for the night, although it was only three o'clock in the afternoon when we reached the village. The reason for this was that the men whom I had hired from Suwara refused to go any farther, and I found it quite impossible to procure any conveyances in the village. The greatest difficulties were placed in our way of hiring them even for the next day, all the people being full of alarming tales about the state of the roads. I was convinced. A IIVI'.IUI) llOTKL. TT ling Muviira ;iu idui^li v(!iy 111 it. JUS joiiiiu'y of rs as easily as IriilU'il llnou'^li estin^n' in ilsult', vt of till', \all(;y, lilLlii Nvooih'u lilt' villaui', 1111(1 r()S])ect from the tliu village and silk-worms and ousc 1 could see 3 !• Ik from the hem weaving it. s, the mullierry- everything else, ikshas, and pvo- remiuded me of ider scale. Thh i-iately he termed from 8uwara we we obtained a >ne of the sacred ted by pilgrims, ed at Agematsu, light, although it 11 we reached the [ueu whom I had !r, and I found it ;es in the village, ar way of hiring pie being full of I was convinced, hdwever, that this was a mere lavirxt f(ir ihe demanding (tf exorbitant charges, ami as usual 1 was olili^cd to have recourse to tlii! help of the jioliee. Thriaigh their oliligiug iiicaiis 1 was enabled to hin^ a jiiiiikslia and lioisrs fdrtlic iiKirrow, the jiroprietors meekly accepting tlie taiitt which was lixed upon by the iiolicc, liioiigli it was liilly onc-t liird less than that which they had originally asked. J'esides ihc manufacture tif silk, wliidi is also carried on here, a some- what extensive trade is dune in jiilgrinis' beads and girdles. Tlie Sakaiya irotel, as the village inn was smiiewhat \nv- tentiously called, was another instance of an atteiii])! al amalgamation between Eurojieau and -bipancse ideas. The landlord .showed me to a room, of which he was evidently extremely ])roud, for it was a feeble imitation of an luiglisli liotel chamber. Uotli lie and my guid(! s(!em(;d ]K'riV'ctly astounded when I refused to dccuiiy '^ and asked for a luilive room. Tlie bill-HUintry all around musL lie exposed to violent winds and storms; and 1 noticed that all the houses in the villages which we passed liad large stones ]ilaced on tiie roofs, no doubt to preveii': their being car- ried oil'. ti 2 Y ;l 354 CHAPTER XXXV. ' :1 I ^vy. H CONTINUATIOX DF TIUl' IX Till': ,IArANErA PASS TAXAKA UOMAXTIC SCEXEUY TO MAYEIiASHl JiY TKAIX OGI (l.MAMA AX AMUSIXG SCEXE THE IMVKU WATEHASEGAWA HAXAWA — -AX ( lUSTIXATE COOLIE r.OYELY SCHXKKY SORl A!SHI\V<) XIKKO A CITY est at which I had yet put up, and the proprietor kept a visitors' book of remarks, in whicli they spoke well of the establishment. I 1,, 1 (■ !^^ ii , r i J ; ,11 356 AX APPEAL TO THE POLICE. I was in hopes tliat the next day's journey wouhl be acconi- phslied without diflieuUy, as we had with us the ?anie coolies who liad behaved so achnirably the evening before. After hav- ing passed through the viUages of Seba and Shiwojiri, how- ever, tlie coolies suddenly stopped, and refused to go farther unless 1 paid them for 7'. ri, which I knew was more than the correct distance. 1 told tliem that they should be paid for the exact distance and no more, and tliat on our arrival at our destination I would have tlie matter settled by the police. They then proceeded on the way, but gave me much trouble, for though the road was excellent, and they had no excuse for not pressing on, nothing would induce them to go out of a w.ilk, and they continually stopped altogether. On reach- ing the Lcp of the Shiwojiri I'ass, I got out of mv jinriksha, rated them severely, took their numbers, and then told them that they might please themselves whether the\' went any farther or not, but that so far as I myself was concerned I intended to walk the rest of tin; way, and report them im- mediately to the police. On hearing this, they changed their tone, promising to amend their ways, and begged me earnestly to forgive them. I remained obdurate, however, to tlieir oft- repeated entreaties, and walked steadily on towards Shimo-no- Suwa. The road went down from tlie top of the pass, which was o4-i0 feet above the sea, into a great valley, in the midst of which was Lake Suwa, upon which the town whither we were l)ound was situated. From time to time the coolies rushed after me with their jinrikslias, beseeching me to get in and let them draw me; but 1 felt that, both for my own sake and that of future travellers, it was neces.sarv to make an example of these men ; and though they fell on their knees and begged me to forgive them just before we reached the town, I marched direct to the police station and had them arrested. I then proceeded to the !Maruya Inn, where I was provided with a fair lunch, after which the sergeant of police called and took down my complaint. AVe had a long con- ukl be accoin- e same coolies e. After hav- liiwojiri, liow- l l(» go faitlier more than the be [)aid for the arrival at our by the police. much trouble, I no excuse for o go out of a r. On reach- niy jinriksha, len told them lie} Went any s concerned I 3ort tliem im- ■ changed their d me earnestly n; to tlieir oft- irds Shimo-no- he pass, wiiich V, in the nndst ,vn whither we me the coolies ling me to get li f(ir my own ssary to make on tlieir knees le reached the and had them II, where I was geaut of police d a lon0 \M., tliree jinrik- shas appeared at the inn door which had l)een ])ro(uved for us liy the police. We a.scended a steep and sloiiy road to a small hamlet called Tcyobashi, just beyond wliicli was a stone monument in a well-kept enclosure wliicli liad been erected to the memory of .six men who had lieen killed in a contest with local troops in iJecember 180;'). Sliovtly after- wards, at a very bad portion of tlie road, the baggage jiii- rikslia fell down and was smashed to pieces. AVe now ascended tlie AVada Pass, the summit of whicli is 5300 feet above the sea. We reached at 10.50 a.m., after ascending a bad and uninteresting road, a tea-house where we ])rocmed a horse for the baggage, arriving at the village of AVada at half-past twelve. This I found a good-sized place, with a roomy comfortable inn, and in the shops of the village were large quantities of curious Japanese basket-work. Having obtained a jinriksha in place of the horse, we resumed our journey after lunch, and at a place called Xagakubo we left the main road, turning otl' to the left for Tanaka, where we iioped to join the railway once more. We passed through several villages, the names of which I was unable to ascer- \ .1 .■! 1 ; ■ ; I li V. 358 IIOMANTIC SCENERY. •tain, and wliicli were f^aily decorated with tla Mi 'Mt, I It l! i-r-'TrirrT-w ) . I 360 AX AMUSING SCENE .; I i! ,' r tiii i\ut\ animated appearand'. The street was lined on botli sides with stalls, at which every sort of commodity was ex- posed for sale. L stopped to witness some of tlie scenes which were goiny on, and one in particular amused nic greatly. A stall-keeper was oll'ering for sale to a man an old and rusty pair of shears. The buyer, from his gestures, was evidently expressing doubt as to their being able to cut. Theieupon the dealer handed him a couple of straws, the result In'ing that they would in;t cut at all. A numlier of bystanders had gathered round, and all burst into a roar of laughter at tins, in which the stall-keeper himself most good- humouredly joined. We found it inipossilde to olitaiu another horse liere, and the road was really too bad for jin- rikshas ; so tliat we started to walk as far as Hanawa, the next village on tlie road. Soon after leaving Oniama we crossed the river "Watera- segawa ly a bridge, after which tlie road ascended, passing along higli above the gorge through which the river Hows, the road in some places appearing almost to overhang the river itself. The scenery here was extremely lovely, the country being beautifully wooded, whilst far below us the river was rushing down in an impetuous torrent, thougli at times it subsided into quiet, clear pools. The road itself. however, was fearfully bad, and our feet sank deep in soft mire and slush, which was rendered all the worse by the heavy carts which were passing along it. AVe reached Hanawa at half-past five, and as another village named Godo was only one /■/ farther, T wished to push on to it before we lialted for the night. To my disgust, however, the coidie with the pack-horse refused to go any farther; and when I remonstrated witli him he simply sat down on the ground, and if he had been a Frenchman he would pro- bably have .said, "J'l/ suis, fi/ irstc.'" IJeing a Japanese he remarked, with their usual regard to truth, that the distance was a ri and a half, that it would take us at least two hours SORI — ASHIWO. :'.Gl lied oil botli idity was e.\- »!:' the scenes aiuused lue to a mail an liis gestures, i able to cut. f straws, tlie A luunljer of ito a roar of 'It: most good- ie to obtain bad for jin- Uaiiawa, the river Watera- luled, passing le river flows, overhang the y lovely, the below us the nt, though at le road itself, deep in soft he worse by AVe reached illage named Hish on to it :ust, however, any farther; sat down on would i)r()- L Japanese he the distance ist two hours to accomplish, that the road was extremely dangerous in the dark, and that, finally, at Godo ho would be unable to obtain any accommodation for his horse. I saw that it, was useless to expostulate with him, for the Japanese are like mules, and if they once make up their minds to any course, nothing will induce them to change it. I tlieref(jre made the liest that I could of the matter, and determined to stay at Haii- awa for the night. My eliief reason for not having wished to do so was, that the inn was uufavt)urably mentioned in ^Murray, l)ut I found it quite as good as any other that I had ])atronised. Xext morning I secured a second pack -horse, and wo started on the way at 7..')0 A.y\. The day was beautifully fine, and the weather balmy, yet fresh. The road to (!odo was on the whole fair, and we reached the ■\'illage at a (piarter past eight, so that I had the satisfaction of rating my coolie soundly for the falsehoods he had tokl me the night before with regard to time and distance. Once again we were in the midst of perfectly lovely scenery, alxmnding in forests of bamboos and pines ; and just Ijefore arriving at the village of Sori we passed through a grove (jf magnili- cent cryptomerias, in the midst of which stood a small temple. At Sori we stopped for a short time to rest the horses, and then wound up through a deep glade, sometimes close to the river and sometimes high above it, until at Ashiwo, in the midst of the most picturesque scenery, we sto])ped to lunch at a good inn. Xear here is a convict establishment, the prisoners lieing engaged in working large copper-mines and smeltiug-furnaces. We met several de- tachments of them being marched along the road, attired in a dull, red dress, and loaded with chains. The next village was called IMikochi, after wdiich the country became very wild, the population appearing miserably poor. Their chief occupation was charcoal-burning, and the smoke of their furnaces could be seen in all directions on the hillsides. •2 z I (<■ i. ■ '1 i ■it ^'>i .'■ (S. ':M 362 NIKKO. I t!'> '\ 1 , i l\ ', ^ ill ■At this point wo comuiencecl tlio ascent of the Asliiwo Pass, wliich was tlie lon,<;v;st anil steepest wo had as yet traversed. After a steady clinii) of nearly tliree English miles we reached the sunnni! I'our o'clock, and halted to rest at a roadside tea-house. The descent on the other side was by a wonderful ziyzaf^' and serpentine road, so constructed in order tc make the gradient as easy as possible. The glorious ■scenery was cc^nsiderably heightened by tho autumnal tints with which the foliage of tho trees and shrubs was beginning to be clothed. At the bottom of the hill I had expected to be able to get a jiuriksha ; but being unable to do so, I was obliged to walk on, and night had fallen before we reached our destination, which was Xikko. I first of all made for the Suzukiya inn, a so-called European hotel. Its ajtpear- ance, however, did not please me, and I met a man who informed me t^at another good hotel hud been opened three mouths. According to his direction we climbed a steep hill, and arriving at the spot which he had indicated we found four bare walls, as if the inn was still in the course of con- struction, and had not yet been finished. Ly this time I was tired, hungry, and worn out ; therefore, in order to avoid hunting about any further, I put up at a Japanese inn called Ineya. The next day was a Sunday, and after breakfast I started to see the temples and other objects for which Xikko is famous. After leaving the inn I crossed the river by a wooden In'idgo ; another bridge spanned the stream about 30 Vards distant from the former. This latter bridge was painted red, and was considered sacred, the Mikado himself being tho only pei'son allowed to pass over it. The cele- brated temples and tombs of Nikko arc situated just on the other side of tho river, in an enclosure called the ]\Ian-gwan-ji. The two chief tombs are those of lye-yasu and lye-mitsu, saints and shoguns, and are i)lain constructions of stone and bronze. At the entrance to the grounds is a handsome i"; I '] Asliiwo Pass, yet traversoil. lish uiilos we I to rest at a r side was by constructed in The olorioiis lutumual tints was beginning;' ad expected to to do so, I was )re we reached f all made for 1. Its appear- let a man who in opened three jed a steep hill, cated we found course of con- By this time I 11 order to avoid auese inn called iakfast I started which Xikko is the river by a stream about 30 ter bridge was Mikado himself r it. The cele- Lted just on the :he ]\Lin-gwan-ji. and lye-mitsu, ins of stone and is a handsome I,' y:■ i; ! 1) ,' i s MAGNIFICENT TKMrLKS. :'.G3 pagotla, 104 feet liigli, datiii.u from li;r.O a.d. From to]) to bottom it is splendidly ornamented. The temples themselves were ori^ti,'inally r.uddhist, l)ut since the restoration of the Mikado to sole i)ower the ancient faith nf the (•(Hintry i»ri(ir to the introduction of I'.uddhism from India, and which is known by the name of Shinto, has become the established religion of Japan, and these temples are accordingly devoted to it. In consequence of this, the liclls, gongs, and other sacred instruments which were used in tlie liuddhist cere- monial have l)een removed, and the temples themselves have been "purified" according to the Shinto religion. ]\Iagnili- cent groves of cry])tonierias adX MolilAKA KoT.slNAOl K IXHA-li 11 1 AN UN- NKCHSSAIiV DllTOUU— (lO-No-Hi; — \VII,I) IT.DWKKS — K'OMINATO AWo.Molil I:MI!AI!K ON STIOA.MKI! I'Oli llAKollAHI. Scptcmhrr ,'10-(Miihn' 10. ISS'.K With tlie excoptiitii of the temples described in tlie last elia]iler there is nothing of especial interest about the town of Nikko, if indeed it can be called a town at all. It has merely one street about three-quarters of a mile in length, and which seemed to be mainly occupied by curiosity-shops of a very tliird-rate character. l»iit a little 'oeyond, on the Utsonomiya road, was a village inhabited entirely by leather- dressers. These are called Etas, and were formerly consid- ered llie lowest of the low — so much so, indeed, that they had no civil rights, and were not allowed to intermarry with any other classes. This distinction, however, has now been abolished, and the Etas are considered on a level with their fellow-creatures. I visited this place and purchased aliout a dozen skins of a species of marten. The fur itself greatly resendjled sable, but it was of a different colour, being a dull yellow. In the evening I dined at the Suzukiya Hotel, which proved to be better at closer quarters than it had appeared ITSONO.MIVA. :)(]-> Irmu the (Hitsidc. TIh' (liniici' was ct ilainly jilaiii in lli(> cxtrciiu', ami cvrrytliiii.^' was as V(iiil;1i as imuiIiI he. luu the ]ir(i]tvi('t()i' was cviili'iitly aiixiinis to >/\\v salislacliini, and cvt'iytliinu tliL'i'c was very clean. There I met a ,neutl(.!Uiau wliti kindly undert(i(d'; to take my newly pnreliased I'ms on to Vokoliania lor me. Through him I I'ound that there was another liolel t'alled ■ The Nikko," and next nioriiinL;' we |iaid a \ isit to it. It stood in an exeellent situalion on a hill elosn to the temples, and all its arrannonients wi-ro Europeiin. Jl was a jiity that 1 had not known of it liel'ore, as it is hy far the hest liotcl in the place. .Vs for the Ineya, whei'e L had stayed, [ should certainly warn any Mnj^lish travelh'is against ])uttin,L;' nj) there, as the accommodation was outragemisly had, and tin; charj^es absurdly exorliitant. The landlord, niorcovei', \vhen I comitlainod ahout my account, coolly informed me that he liad cliarL-ed me considerably less tlian he ouuhl to have done, liecause 1 was unaccompained by a ]irofessional uuide. Soon after ten o'clock we started on our way in thri>e jinrikshas, and having passed througli the village of leather- dressers, we entered on a line and excellent road, lined on lioth sides by a magnificent iivenue of cryptomerias. TJiis extended the whole distance to I'tsononuya, a journey of 22 miles. On tlie way we passed through three small villages, called respectively Imaiehi, Osawa, and Tokujira, wbere there was nothing to detain us, and we reached rtsonomiya at 2.40 r.M. I had intended to take the train, but owing to the guide and baggage lingering liehind, I missed the last train of the day, which started at ■■>.o ]'..m. I was therefore com- pelled to spend the night at Utsonomiy.i, which is a good- sized town, with a population of about 15,000. The only object of interest in the place, however, was a large Shinto temple, approached by a Hight of 70 stone stejis which lead up from the main street. From the platform at the top I was rewarded by a splendid view. On walking ' ( K ..J^ 366 ATTENTIVE RAILWAY OFFICIALS. through the streets I noticed on the si^n-boards of some of the shops rude and amusing attempts at EngHsh, one in par- ticuhir had the following notice in large and conspicuous letters, " Foreign any artices fulsel and retail shop," which 1 presumed was intended to mean wholesale and retail shop for foreign articles. I discovered a very fair European res- taiu'ant, when; I was provided with well-cooked meals, and passed a comfortable night hi a room furnished in the ordi- nary Japanese fashion. Xext morning, Tuesday, October 1, I left Utsonomiya l)y the ten o'clock train for Sendai, where I arrived at 7 r.M. I found the iirst-class cairiacos e.vcellent in all their arrange- ments, resendjling very much an Euglish saloon carriage. At every station along the road ter and hot water were supplied gratis. The guards and other otlicials might have taught a very good lesson to those at home, for they were most atten- tive and polite. The country through which we passed was highly cidtivated, but the scenery all along the line was very tame. At Sendai 1 i)ut up at a large native inn called the Harikiya, to which was attached a European restaurant where tlie food was sujiplied fVir my meals. Sendai is a very large town, with a population of over 60,000, and was formerly the seat of Date Alutsu-no-kaiui, one o! the chief daimios of Japan. His castle, which was partially destroyed during the civil war of 18G8, is now used as military barracks. With the exception of this castle, there is little of interest to be seen at Sendai. According to Murray's (hiide tlie presents give- '/ the Pope to the Japanese Embassy sent to Itome in 1615 were kept in the Keucho or town-hall. I therefore visited the place in the hopes of seeing them, but t ^ my disappointment I found that they liad all been removed to Tokio. At a bookseller's shop in the town I managed to purchase a printed copy of tlie letter accrediting the embassy, as also some photographs of his Holiness's presents. These consisted mainly of pictures, rds of some of ish, one in par- id conspicuous sliop," wliicli 1 uiil retail shop r European res- )ke(l meals, and led in llie ordi- Utsonomiya hx ved at 7 P.M. I II their arran;j;e- lOii carriay;e. At ev were supplied il have taught a were most atten- •h we passed was the line was very Lve inn called the ropean restaurant Is. opulation of over e Mutsu-no-kaini, castle, which was 18G8, is now used III of this castle, ,endai. According - the Popii to the were kept in the 1 the place in the tment I found that u hooksellcr's shop iriuted copy of the ime photographs of mainly of pictures, 4 YOSHIOKA — SAMBONGI. • ()/ a crucifix, and ecclesiastical vestments, though there were many other minor articles hesidcs. At the time of that em- hassy Japan was very nearly emhracing tlie Catholic faith, hut, ui^fortunately, owing to the misguided zeal of tlie Fran- ciscan Fathers, the movement was almost extinguished in a sea of bloocL The shops at Sendai were of tlie ordinary Japanese class, and I purchased several well-carved trays and boxes, made of a kind of fos.^il wood which was peculiar to the neighljoiuliood. "We left this place at 2.20 r.M., stopping shortly afterwards for a few minutes at a small village where huge quantities of coarse pottery were made. Theu we traversed an excel- lent road through a broken country, Ijetwten low hills covered with scrub and cultivated in patches with rice. After hav- ing ])assed throuL:h the insigniticant villages of Xanakila and Tomiya, we arrived at Yoshioka, where we had determined to stop for the night, reaching our destination just about sunset. Yoshioka is a lolerable-sizcd village, with one small though tolerably good inn, called the l"simokamat-su. Duiiiig the niglit I was greatly disturbed by some drunken Japanese who were iu the next room to mine, and this was the lirst occasion on which I liad come across aiivthing of the sort in Japan. The natives as a rule are very ([uiet and sober. Thurst' iy, October o, we left Yoshioka at 8.20 \M., pass- ing along a road tln-ough a tract of country very similar to that whicli we had traversed the day before. We reached the village of Sambongi at 10 a.m., a distance of seven and three- i i :| ii 1 I i ' 1 : HI ' t m H ■ 1 iff U| P>i jdll •J ^ILIS [. 368 A REMARKABLE CURIOSITY called Farukawa, when.' we changed the jinrikshas, startiii- on our way ayaiu just before noon. As far as Araya tlic road was in excellent order, and the country level, open, and highly cultivated; but after leaving this place we entered upon a tract of moorland, the roadside being lined l>y the common Scotch tirs, Here, too, we entered a more hilly dis- trict. At one o'clock we stopped for luncheon ac a long straggling village called Tnka h'liddzu, starting again at 2 P.M. .Vt a quarter past thi'. ■.■: ■ e upon a busy animated scene at a village called Isakir ;te, where a larue fair was going on. Here again we changed jinrikshas, and thence we proceeded at a good pace along a road as level as a billiard- table, in tirst-rate condition, which passed through an open country, which was extensively cultivated with mulberry- trees. The village of Kaunari, wliere we arriveil at -i.oO P.M., and halted for our lught's rest, was small and insigniticanl. the inhabitants looking poverty-stricken. The inn, however, was very good. In tlie evening I obtained from a native a brace of partridges, which resemble the ^".;l.;lish .species in plumage but of a ratlier largei' size. l>v half-past ei^ht on the tollowin i::; . is>,l; we were once again upon our way, accompanied by te ■ ' .A and obliging innkeeper, who was anxious to take me ti ^i-' a house, the owner of which possessed a great eurios'iy. This was a model of a cock and hen carved out of what is said to be a mixture of gold and charcoal. It w;.s reported to liave been in the possession of \\w family df its owner for over eight hundred years, and the ancestor wlm constructed it was claimed to have discovered .'<^ art of transmuting the base metals. He had been ; ■ \y- i'coal- burner. The owner was justly proud of liis renuui^able treasure, which, as I was infornu 1. is regarded by every one in the neigh- bourhood .vitli tl e greatest revere ee. Its possessor lias .several aucienc 'io-uiiients connected with its history. The cock and Vicn are both rudely mai^" of a black substance, KANE-GA-SAKI. ;]G9 vshas, starting as Araya the r>ol, open, and lii we entered lined by the uiire hilly dis- •un at a long ng again at 2 busy animated large fair was IS, and thence el as a billiard- rough an open kith niulVierry- ed at 4.30 r.M., id insignificant, e inn. however, roni a native a ^lish species in ■_; we were once ;1 and obliging h'r a house, the V. This was a at is said to be sported to have owner fur over » constructed it of transmuting 1- burner. The treasure, which, e in the neigh- s po.ssessor has ts history. The hlack substance, with lumps of yellow metal showing here and there, and each bird is about four inches long by three inches high. Some years ago they were sent, by special connnand, to Tokio for the inspection of the Mikado. A small temide has been erected to the memory oi their maker over his reputed grave, and this also we were taken to visit. Having bidden farewell to my courteous landlord, we went on our wav over a uood road lyinsf between low hills covered with brushwood. Soon after eleven wo reached Ichi - no-seki, a flourishing little town of about 3400 inhabitants. Here we changed jinrikshas, and after- wards we entered a pretty country, open in the foreground, but closed in behind with a grand range of wooded moun- tains. The crops of rice hn'eabouts appeaivd to me magnificent, and they were almost ready for reaping. We halted for an hour to lunch at Mayezawa, wlicre we again changed our kurumu, and then passed along a road close to a new railway, which was apparently finisliud and ready for opening. Having gone through a large-sized jilace called ^Nlidzusawa, we crossed the Ibukigawa river, which, like all the streams in tliat }); rt of the country, was teeming with .salmon, and arrived at Kane-ga-saki at 4 r.M. This was a wretched village, wiili a still more wretched iini ; but owing to the refusal of the coolies to advance any farther, I was obliged to stay there for the niglit. Up to this point my excursion for tlie last few days liad been rendered far more enjoyable than before on accjunt of the behaviour of the coolies, who did their jour- neys well, were reasonable in their demands, and perfectly amenable to orders. Here, however, I appeared to ]ia\e entered upon a new district, for from this point I could not gvt any coolies to go with me more tlian one stage. Saturday, October 5, was a cold, raw morning, with fre- eyond, the road was good, and the scenery much more pleasant ; but in the whole of this district, as in that of the Xagascndo, we saw many tokens and signs of the enor- mous damage done by last month's typlioon. We were constantly coming upon the remains of bridges which had been washed away. A striking and conspicuous object throughout this day's journey was the volcano of Gan-jiu- san, which ris(!s up a beautiful cone-.shaped mountain 5700 feet high. Tlie \olcano, however, is now quiescent, nor has it been active for several centuries. Having lunched at Hidzume, we crossed the ]vita-gami-gawa by a suVistantial wooden bridge built on ]uers, and arrived at ^Nfdriaka at 3 l-.M. This is a large town with a population of over 22,000, the capital of a province, and formerly the residence of a daimio. The shops, how-ever, were very poor, and there was absolutely nothing of interest to be seen. I had been led to expect comfortable quarters here at the principal inn. Owing, however, to a death in the fanuly, this inn was closed to visitors, and I was compelled to put up with most indifl'erent accommodation at a very third-rate establishment. Next morniug again I started in advance of tlie guide and Itaggage — the morning lacing unpleasantly raw, and the rain falling heavily. The road, however, was excel- lent, Ihrcjugh a moorland district. Having changed coolies at Sliibutami at half-past ten, we reached Numaqunai at 1 I'M., where we stopped to lunch — a long delay being afterwards caused by an accident to the baggage jinriksha. The road now commenced a very steep ascent, and had been greatly spoilt aud cut up by the raihvay-works which i VANDALISM OF MODERN CIVILISATION. uTl I left Kaue- e found the lis place we roiu the sea. nincli more as ill that of 5 of the eiior- II. We were es which had icuous object 10 of Gaii-jiu- nountaiu 5700 escent, nor has f lunched at a substantial at ]\roriaka at n over 22,000, residence of a loor, and there sn. I had been t the princi]ial aniily, this inn led to put up very third-rate ;e of tlie guide antly raw, and ver, was excel- chan_^■ed coolies Xuniarpuiai at ng delay being ggage jinriksha. iscent, and had /ay-works which were in progress. In this pari it was evident that a long time would elapse before the line was ready for tijieiiiiiL:, as the engineering was somewhat dillicult, and a great nuin- ber 01 bridges liad to be eoustrucLed. Having (IcsccikIimI a pretty gorge down which was rushing a small but iapiirly ex- pected. He tried to persuade me that I must therefore go by coach ; and this he had already been urging upon me tlie evening before, wlien I had persistently refused. I felt convinced that he liad some po'sonal object in thus en- deavouring to persuade me to take the coach, and 1 believe that he had some pecuniary interest in it. I therefore, without wasting any time in argument, went oft' to the police station, and a constable there soon procured me »■ 1 I *,, (»*«&-»««».••■• 374 AWOMOIU. 'imtm \ ' . t Hi f i three jinrik.shas. Tlie .TapaiK'se police force is really an excellent iuhititution: the men are invariably civil, oU'^inii', antl enernetic, always ready to assist a foreigner, and ly their tirni and strict discipline inspiring the innkeei)ers and coolies with a -wholesonie fear of them. A short distance after starting we again struck the coast, which we continued to follow throughout the day. The scenery here was ex- ceedingly lovely, the hay being indented by numerous little sandy coves, at the liack of which run wooded hills. In the middle of one of these little inlets lay a remarkalily steep and well-wooded island. AVe met a large body of infantry on the marcli, the men appearing sturdy and well built, though snuill of stature. Every man was carrying in- trenching tools, and the buglers were armed with ritles; the uniform of the otHcers was veiy similar to that of the French. At 10.15 a.m. we reached Awomori, a large town of 11,000 inhabitants lying on the edge of a well-cultivated plain, and also standing on the sea-shore. The streets were wide, and wooden arcades ran along both sides of them ; but there was little of interest in the place. I purchaseil several .specimens of a pretty kind of lacrpier, which is manufactured here, and can be procured nowhere else in Japan. Its distinctive peculiarity was a marbled kind of surface. A steamer runs daily between Awomori and Hakodadi, and on this steamer, wlrich was named the Chitose jNIaru, we endjarked at 4..jO p.m., though we did )iot sail until eleven at night. The vessel was only about 200 tons burden, but her accommodation was excellent for her size, till nigh no European food was to be had on board. I brought, however, a steak with me from shore, and the steward cooked it for my dinner. The captain, officers, and crew were all Japanese, and the accommodation was there- fore, of course, native. After a very tine passage we arrived at Hakoda(^- before daylight, but I did not land till half-past sn is roally an civil, oll'^in;^', igncv, and 1>y nnkeepers aii I i —THE "STOXK N NANAYi: A AND ONUMA SU COUSTUY j.;S \ SACHKD i'iuk's L'M'iiH- I'liuToiu — Till-; l.l.ANKDLH. »0I.- ;M 111' SAIXTA- ;T liTAlU: A JIVIO AT YOlvO- le (lovevuov's •dens iiljout a furnished in ended to the knl on ^Ir 1*., uvitiition that were well laid us containing •e nsed by the 80 some badly nets of Yezo. he foot of the ith good stores On the hill ■I ''5 I overlooking the town and harbour is a large ]ilain (,'atho- lic church, and just l)ehind it stands the dreek Orthodox church. In the afternoon, accompanied by Mr 1'., 1 jiaid a visit td some new water-works whieli had been opened witli great ceremony about ten days l)efore my arrival. The re;.ervoir was large and substantially built, ami no d(jubt will jjrove «a source of great benefit to the town. On June 8, 1869, there was a severe coiitliet between the troops of the Mikado and a force of rebels at llakodadi, and the spot where the principal tight took place is marked by a large stone on the side of a hill, called the "Stone of (Ireen lUood." A short distanc<' from it was the place where tlie rebels were buried, and a long row of stone lantei'us are' placed to their memory. 'I'he (Jonsul took me to see tliis spot, and afterwards lionised me through the tnwn. Tlie experience of civilisation was pleasant after the three weeks' roughing through which I had passed. At ^\r r.'s house I met an Anglican clergyman wlio bail been engaged in mission work for the past thirteen years amongst the Ainus in connection with the Church ^fis- sionary Society. Tins gentleman had pu) dished a diction- ary and grammar of the language of this remarkable peo- ple, and had, moreover, coi;'"'^ibuted several papers relating to them to the Journals • he Asiatic Society of Japan. He was probably better acquainted than any living Euro- pean with their traditions, customs, and religious belief, and from him I received much useful information which I was very glad to obtain, as I intended to make a trip into the interior through the district which they chietly oc- cupied. His house was full of most innn-esting and valu- able Ainu curiosities, which he most kindly invited me to inspect. The Ainus are polytheists, although several trav- ellers and others have erroneously stated that they liave no -system of religion. They have a general name for all gods, 3b ■ f '1 tt L>^- ■'K .1 •- o .) ( o i;ki,i<;|()\ (»i' ink aini's. I ! i iiiid tliis iiaiiu! is Kaimii-— it siyiiilics tlic iisalut tlicii' system of tlicolotfy includes an enonnous nundier ol' gods — such, for exani]ile, as yuds of the mountains, gods iA' the sea, gnds of line weather, and gods of animals. .1///// l'//(77//i,'"/c' //u\i;i',/s. Their most sacred animal is the hear. The chief god is he- lieved hy them to be the dispenser of all ])ower and author- ity to the lower order of gods, and he is also regarded as the source of all life and being, and the fountain of ail good- ness. In the appendix to this volume will be found a com- plete list of Aiiui divinities and Ainu legends. This ])eople believe in tlie immortality of the soul, and also in future rev;ai'ds ami [mnishments ; but they have no temples nor A f;()Vi;i!NMKNT sTID-TA IJM. r.7!) ii: CV (ll Wlllllls (•tiuiL'S cullfr Hakodadi Way was very extensive and line. <_)n (air way down the other side we had a most glorious view of two lakes lyinu at the foot of the hill, named resjiectively Junsai Xuma and Oniima. They were both small, but were picturescpiely siu-roundcil with thick woods, and numerous islands dotted their surface. These lakes are a favourite resort for picnic parLies from Hakodadi, and on the shores of the smaller one wi're two inns, at the farther of which we stopped to lunch. The rooms were furnished in what the proprietor believed to be European style, though the beds were simply wooden boxes #-., 380 A CURIOUS TEMPLE. if' ']Mi' ^?^i with legs about two feet liigli, reminding one inipleasautly of colHns upon trestles. These Japanese hmdlorcls must have a strange idea of the taste u*" foreigners if they think that tliey prefer beds like those to comfortable Japanese ones. They seem, however, to be furnished in this way on purpose to allbrd tlie innkeepers an excuse for charging higli prices. .Ifesuming our journey at two o'clock, we passed through a wood, the tints of which were exquisite and of almost every hue and colour, the pi'Hloiniuant shades being scarlet and yellow. The road was full of deep ruts, and the motion of the trap was unpleasant in the extreme. At a quarter to four we arri'. od at !Mori. As it was then too late to get to Otobpe, uliere I iiad intended to stay tlie night, we determined to take iip our quarters at the inn at ^loi'i. I afterwards had occasion to congrat\date myself upon this step, for tlie j'oom where I slept was certainly the prettiest, nicest, and most comfortaljle of any I had yet seen in Japan. The walls were covered witli black sand in which pieces of pearl-sliell were inlaid, the etl'ect being exceedingly good. ]\[ori was a Icng straggling village on tlie sea-shore, and it possessed a small temple, very elaborately decorated. The Vr'al's were covered witli votive otlerings and pictures, the drawing of wliich was startling, and the colouring gorge- ous and brilliant. The subjects delineated a])i)eared to be chietJy horses and ships, though the figure of some black divinity occupied the place of honour. The inlet of the sea upon wliich Alori is situated is called Volcano Uay, and the volcano from which it takes its name stands out a jjromi- nent and striking object as seen from the village. Steamers ply between this place and Mororan on the opposite side of the bay, and next day 1 embarked on board one of these steamers to visit that }»lace. The vessel was a wretched little craft of about sixty tons ; she roUoil most horribly in a choppy sea, large quantities of spray continu- ally breaking over her. We reached ]\lororan after a three unpleasantly ullords must if tliey tliinlc iblo Japanese 1 tills way on charging high k, we passed juisite and of : shades being p ruts, and the Ktrenie. At a s then too late stay the night, nn at ]\Iori. I self upon this y the prettiest, , seen in Japan, ^vhich pieces of lingly good. : sea-shore, and decorated. The lid pictures, the 2olouring gorge- appeared to be J of sonic black inlet of the sea mo l>ay, and the ids out a i>rouu- village. Mororan on the iibarked on board The vessel was a she rolled most of spray continu- oran after a three I I TH?: AINU COUNTUV. 381 liours' passage, and I put up at an inn close to the landing- place. The situation of the town was very picturesque, but the place itself was dull and uninteresting. Early next morning we started in a two-horse trap along the road which skirted the shore of the harbour in the midst of exquisite scenery. At the village of Washihets, through which we passed soon after leaving ^Mororan, tlie (Jovern- ment had lately built a number of houses witli a view to en- couraging immigration and to improving tlie country around. Lw&ya^'' Ainu -civmcii Xi'caviiit; (yapan). F(jr this purpuse tlu'v liad given free grants of land to set- tlers, and a few acres liad already been cleared of trees and brought into cultivation. The principal produce appeared to be vegetables. At ten o'clock wo reached Tlorobets, having passed tlirough a wild country. This place contains a mixed population nt' .Fapanese and Ainus, and I visited the house ot the chief man annuig tlie latter, to whom the Jlev. ]\fr r>„ tlie missionary at Hako- dadi, had recommended me. This chief possessed a large quantity of lacquer bowls and saki eui»s, which he w;i> un- I, t 1 (■ l! \ '■ t .ii- V mil 382 A .SACKED BEAR. m i»! i : .mmv i ' i If: m derstoocl to be sellinjf ofV. The bowls were very hamlsomc. but unfortunately, having been used for ordinary household ]iurposes, they were all more or less chipped and broken. Thipugh he >vas supposed to be selling oft', the owner askt'd ridicnlously Iiigh prices, and on my trying to bargain with him, he indignantly refused to .abate his otler, remarking calmlv that if I tho i^ht them too dear I h: 1 better not bnvthem at all. After considerable argument I ultimately iiurchased a Jine bowl for Uri dollars. The Ainus value their lacipier po.ssession.s highly, and are very loath to part with them, for the respect in which a man is held by his neighbour varies in proportion to the nundier of pieces which he possesses. They were originally obtained by them from the Japanese in exchange for skins and furs, and when not in use they are arranged carefully in a recess in the principal room. In another house which I visited, I saw a voun'' bear in a cage which was being ke})! for the annual bear-feast. On this occasion the unfortunate bear, after being worshipped with gi'eat ceremony, all the people asking its forgiveness, is then killed in a very cruel mannir. The worshippers shoot blunt arrows at it until it becomes goaded into fury, when two men rush at it and secure it with a rope. ( Uhor ropes are then made fast to each of its legs, and th- animal is spread- eagled. A pole is afterwards ]ilaeed r.cross its neck, and every one throws hi-- weight upon it, until the poor bi'ast is t^lowly strangled, alter which he is eul x\\> and eaten. From the owner of this bear I ]turchased a small Ainu pup of two months old, which was pure while, with very thick hair. 1 paid two ^lollars for it. After leaving Horobets we aseendetl a steep jiath through .some woods to Shiroi, wheie we .stoj)ped to lunch. Tiience we traversed a level road close to the sea through a district covered with coarse grass and .stunted bushes, in the midst of which were numerous swani])s and ponds, in some of which I saw teid. Numerous small Ainu lishinLr village.s GUIDES rXFORTL'NATE EXPERIENCES. 383 V hanilsoinc. ly househoM and broken, owner asked ain with him, nking oahuly t buy them at ]mrchased a their laciiuer ,vitli them, for Lihliour varies i he possesses, thi' Japanese n use they are lal yr.om. Tu bear in a eage .■a.st. On this .)rshipped with iveness, is then ers shoot blunt Luy, when two Dthor ropes are limal is spread- its neek, and If pixir beast is 1 eaten. From linn jiup of twx) • thiek liair. I p ]iatli throuiih hiueh. Thenee irough a district es, in tlie midst id.s, in some of iishini: vilhiiies lay in succession along the s]iore,and in almost all of them we saw tiie inhabitants at work boiling dt wn a species (jf sardine lor oil. Our resting-place for the night was at Toinakomai, a small place without interest, and thence next morning, Tuesday. October IT), we rode along a tolerably fur road to Ynbuts, a small fishing hamk-t. conUiining not more tluin a dozen houses. Thence the road became a mere track tlinnigh the sand, the line of which was oidy discernible by the telegrapli posts. Some ilistanee afterwards we crossed a wide river in a boat, and from this ixiint the track was in better order as far as ^likouwa, wlieiv we stopped to luncli and change horses. Our way now struek through a thick forest of oak- trees, which were not anything like so large as Knglisli -»aks, but the leaves of wliicli were consiilerably ^.argcr. ^ly guide had some disagreeable exi>eriL'nce3 that day, as h(^ was twice kicked oil his horse, and was so tired wlien we arrived at Endo, our de-iinaiiun for the night, that he actually Iiad to be lifted off his aniii.al. Here was no village, but oidy a wayside inn situated on the banks •<( the Saru ri.er, which was a broad stream crossed by a ferry. I found myself, bow- ever, verv comfortably ouarterrd here The eouutrv all around this neighliourluMKl wa< wild in the extreme, witliout the slightest sign of cultivation ; but tlie landscape was relieved by a tine range of mountains in tlie distance, wliieh were covered with snow. The folhnving dav was wretcbrdlv wet, the rain descend- ing in torrents all the niorninu; and as the guide refused to l)ioceed after lunch, sjiyiug that it was too late to go on that day, I sjient the afternoon in walking to an Ainu village wliieh I had noticeil picturescpu'ly situated on a liill over- looking the river. I>cfore I had gone half-way tlie rain com- menced again to fall verv heavily, and when 1 readied the village I could see nothing of the inhabitants, for they were all closely shut up inside their houses : 1 was therefore H i ■ ^ I ¥ 1^^^ -^M • Lr^:!S ff :!■ ;ni I I Ml'' lb ■■ 384 PIRITOUI. obliqued to return to my inu wet tlirougli, tired, and disap- pointed. Tlie next day I made an expedition to a place called I'iri- tori, which I had been recommended to visit. The road thither ])assed by the valley of the Saru river, and in placef? it was a perfect ipiagmire, in which the horses floundered uj) to their knees, indeed it was only with the greatest diffi- culty that we managed to get along at all, and in crossing a I'iiilori , li'c.i, 'Japan. bridge over a stream tlie guide's horse fell rigid over into the water. Fortunately the height was only eight feet, and beyond a thorough ducking no harm was done. After pass- ing through several small Ainu villages, we reached our destination at nine in the morning. Pirilori is rpiite a considerable village for tliis part of the country, containing a poi)ulation (»f no less than 2l'0. AVith the exception of one Japanese who kept a small store, all the people were Ainus. 1'his storekeeper supplied the na- tives with saki, which is a jjotent spirit distilled from rice, h1, and disap- ,ce called Piri- nt. The road , and in places tlouudered \\\) greatest dilti- d in crossing a ^lit over into the eight feet, and )ne. After pass- \ve reached our this part of the tlian 220. With I small store, all supplied the na- istilled from rice, AINU WKArONS AND FMI'IJIM KNTS. 385 AINL- WKAl'OXS AND IM I'LIiMKN IS. A, Arrow?. 1*., SiUi cuii and stand. C, IJark (luivcr. 1), liow. E, Moustache-lifter. F, (arvcd tobacco-liox and pipe-caso. f;, I,ac(|Uor howl and nioustaclie-liftcrs. H, Shuttle of a loom. 3 c il ^Mft n I f -MM 38G VISIT TO AN AIXU CHIEF. ,!::•* M and, in my ]innil)le taste, one of the nastiest drinks imagin- able; all the Japanese, howevei', are very fond of it. J liad an introdnctif)n from ]Mr \\. to the cliief, whoso name was I'enri, and on my visitiii,!;' him he welcomed mc heartily, leadinji' me into the house liy the hand and ])lacing a bench for me by tlie side of the liii' liimself. This 1 was informed was a mark of the greatest honour. The well-known writer. Miss ]5ird, had once stayed at this chief's house, and having read her book, T was able to tell him that his name was known in England. At this he seemed to be highly ilattered and delighted, and immediately asked me what he could do to show his favour towards me. J told him that I was anxious to buy some Ahiu weapons and curios, and accoril- ingly he sent a messenger round the village, the result being that an extraordinarily n)iscellaneous collection of articles was soon spread before me, from which 1 selected a good number, the most valuable of which was a bark quiver filled with arrows. These arrcjws were about a foot long and feathered, the barbs being made, some of iron and some of bamboo, with a hollow cavity Idled with poison. Amongst other things, I also purchased some interesting .specimens of cloth, on which were embroidered, with blue and red braid, various patterns of geometrical design. I'enri, the chief, had a good stock of lac([uer in his house, but 1 could not prevail upon him to sell me any. After making my pur- chases I took a stroll through the village, the houses of which weie l)uilt of wood, the sides as well as the roof being thatched with straw as a protection against the extreme cold in winter. Most of the houses consisted of bi'.t one room, which had a good boarded iloor. The storehouses, or " go- downs " as they were called, were built in a similar fashion, but were raised on posts about six feet from the ground. All the inhabitants ai)peared to me polite and well-mannered, and every one saluted me in the native manner — that is to .say, by extending the arms, l)owing as the hands are brought 1 "A FINE, DKiMFIKD-l.UOKINC ItACK,'' ;;s: drinks iiiiagin- i ,,t' it. I luul losc iiiune was 1 mc lieiirtilv, ilacing a bench 1 was informed known wriler, use, anel having' liis name wa.s highly ilattereil lat he conhl do lini that I was ios, and accord- the result heing tion of articles selected a good a bark quiver t a foot long and ron and some of oison. Amongst ;ing specimens of e and red braid, I'enri, the chief, l)ut 1 could not making my pur- ;(,!, the houses of as the roof being the extreme cold of but one room, 3reliouses, or " go- a similar fashion, from the ground, nd well-mannered, nanner — that is to hands are brought togetlier, and then shiwly laising iheni to the face ami strok- ing tlie beard. 'J'he men were a line, dignilied-lookiiig race, witli a really n()l)le expression on theii' iiUHN, their eves in |>articu]ar Ix'ing remarkably ])iereing and keen. Tluy all wore their hair long, and liad heavy moustaches and llowing beards. In consecpiencc of this, the old men presented a most veneralde a])pearanee, and, in a word, the Ainus seemed to me a magniticent tyj)!' of a wild race, having nothing whatever in common with tlie Japanese. Tlie young girls were fairly good-looking; l»rt the females did not strike mo as possessing such handsome features as the males. I'erliaps this was owing to the universid practice amongst them of tattooing a l>road blue mark round l)oth tlieir li])s. Xeitlier of the sexes appeared in the least reserved or shy. When I had seen as much of the village as I cared to, T started with Penri, the chief, to ride to another village a short distance farther up the valley, where lie told me that T should find some lacfjuer. A heavy thunderstorm came on whilst we were en route, and when we readied the place I was soaked to the skin. The lacipier articles which I saw in this village were certainly Ijcautiful and interesting, but none of their owners would part with them, and the only things whieli I was able to purchase were two small saki cups. On my return to I'iritori, Penri pressed me to stay tlie night at his house, oflering to show me a village dance in the evening; but I was reluctantly compelled to decline his invitation, as it was most important for me to catch the steamer at Otaru on the following Sunday. Accordingly, after having presented I'enri with two bottles of gin, F returned to Endo by th'j river, in a canoe which was a; very primitive allair, being simply a log of wood hollowed out. The current was rapid, but the l)oaimen evidently thoroughly understood their work, and we arrived safely at our destination after having jiassed through some lovely scenery. On reach- ing my inn 1 was cold, wet, dirty, and fatigued, but J •< . 1 i' .ii! U;j m f I !f^ * L" y 388 A COMFORTABLK INN. :i * had, Uf»t\vithstan(lin,Li-, most tliorou,L>lily enjoy ImiltliiiL; stamliiiL;' in the midst of extensive; and wtdl Iccjit yronnds, and tlio inlciior was extivnmly well furnislici] in Knioix'an style, even lieini^' jirnvided witli ;i billiard - inoni. 1 was accommodated wiili a Iai_m! and comfortable sitting-rijom, witli my bedroom oiKiiinn' oul t'lom it. Sai)])oro was formerly the capital of Vezo, Imt is now only the chief town of one; of the three prid'ectures in(o whirh the island is divided. A'ery f(;w foreij.i'ner.s visit the jjlace, and I could i.'t understand how such an excellent hotel could pay. The dinner wa.s well cooked, and I went to bed very well pleased with mytpiarters; but to my ;4reat disgust, when 1 lay down to slce]i 1 discovered tlait my room was infested with swarms of llyini;' bugs. I luul hitherto always imagined that this peculiarly loathsome in.sect was entindy conlined to the ^Vest Coast of .Vfrica, and in all my travels through- out the world [ had never .seen them elsewhere. A railway connects Sapporo with Otaru, and T left the former i)lace at half-past nine in tlie morning. The line was constructed by American engineers, and it must liavc been shamefully scamped, for it is laid in an execrable fashion, being indeed more like a rough tramway than a railroad. I was not therefore surprised when the tender ran off the rails, and detained us for over two hours before we could proceed on our way. "We did, however, manage at length to reach our destination. (Jtaru is prettily situated on the .shores of a large Ijay, and contains about 10,(»0t> inhabitants. A\'e lost no time in embarking on lioard the s.s. Takia ]\laru, a good vessel of id)out GoO tons, ollicered and manned by Japanese. T was the only European pa.sseuger on board. We got under way at 0.15 r.M., tht! wind at the time blowing ficsh, with every in- dication of foul weather. As the afternoon wore on the wind increased, and all tlirough the night the vessel laboured con- siderably, tliere being a strong gale with a heavy lu-ad-sea. ^(iiiit^ linil(liii;4 ]n'\A Lii'iunil-, I ill IMIVOIX'IUI I'OOlll. 1 Wil'- silLiii;4-v[., and rapidly ran down the coast at a steady ])ace of thir- teen knots an houi-. Here again 1 was the oidy European passenger, but I found a pleasant con)panion in the skippi'r, Captain 1). At l.lo A.M. we stopped at Oginoliania, wliich is situated in a pretty landlocked harboui-, with wooded liills all around it. This was the juirt for Sendai and the sur- rounding district, and a small steamer also runs to Ishino- ! / J , ^1 m :;o:i AIJIUVAF. A'l' YOKOHAMA. 'I- 1 iiiaki and comiL't'ls with llie railway tlu^'o. Almo.st all tin passengers ulseiiibarkeil liere in nnlcr to piocei'il toTukio liy train. We left O^inoliaina at llM'O i'.>r., the weather beliii;' cx- fiuisitely lovely and tlu; sea as snionth as a mill-pond. Xext inornin,Lf, Sunday, October "JT, was a dull hazy day, in consequence of which I was unfortunately jtrevented from enjoying' tlu; lovely scenery on the (!ulf of Tokio — Mount Fujiyama, the jn-incipal ol)ject in the landscape, hcin^ itsclt (pute invisible. At a (puirter to one in the afternoon wc arrived and anchored at Yokohama, where was assembled quite a ileet of men-of-war, consistinif of three English, four French, one Russian, and one /Vuio'iean vessel, including both the English ami Krencli Hag- lups. lib^ \lmi).-,L all llii ;cd to Tdkio by 39;j tln;r iK'iii'j,' cx- I iiiill-pond. (lull lia/,y tlay, ])i'eveuted i'miii Tokio— ^Mouut i|u', lii'iny itSL'll le at'U'ruooii wc was asscinlili'tl 01! Ku<;lisli, tour 'ossol, incliuliug )'■' CirAPTi:!! XX.W III. YOKOHAMA A HISAIM'OINTINO TOWN TIIK IMTKh (1,111 — T(iKr-A TH.MI'MCS — A .lAPANKSK CIIKYSAXTIIKMIM sIImW — DKAKINs' hlNK AIM' (lAI.I.KIiY Till-; KiMii: .MAKC — -lilMT'liN' To KOia: I'Uoii liK.SS or UKI'AlliS TO YACHT KXl'KNSKS ol' MY .lAI'AMISi: IKll' VISIT XAOASAKl IN II. M.S. IMrillMKLSK A LAN |ii.o( K KM IIAI!- IIOUII liinUn.N TO ROHI-: on TIII; TAKACIIIIIo-.MAIil — SIII.Mo- xosKKi — i»i:i'Ainri!F I'oii knoi.and or tin; last kkmaininc .mi:n who iiai» stai!Ti:ii with .mi: — i larnuN ro dnclanh on Tin; rAinuiA — tiii-: yicak's imhokii of tih: yai his i.oc — VANCOUVKU — rHK CAN A HI AN TACIl'tC HAII.WAY' MONTIiKAI. KNGLANI) liK'lUHX To .lAI'AN 1!Y Mi;sSA(ii:i!I KS STKAMKIt SA(i IIALIKN HKSU.MI'TION ol' VoYAdlO ol'' XVANZ.Y KAMSCllATKA I'j.rUol'AUI.oVSKI. October ..'S, J.SS9-.y((i/ ,.'•/, IS'JO. \'<)KOUAMA is certainly a disaiipoiiitinii ]ilacc, tliou,uii jmm- liaps one oui^lit hardly to have L'.\])i!cU'd to iind aiiythiiiL; of special interest there, as the town has only spruiiL;' into exist- ence since the oi)euin,n' of the ci)nntrv to foreiinners, and its population is mostly contined to luiropean residents. Tlu'sc live ill i)retty bun.cjalows standin^u; in pleasant j^ardens on a hill above the bay which is known by the name of the llliiir, whilst the principal hotels are situated ou the Ihiiid I'aeinn the sea. Amon.^st other European luxuries I pveatly enjoyed the United Club, to which I was admitted as a visitor. It was really excellently managed, and possessed a large library, 3D I' : h i 1^ 394 THE TKMPL^y AT TOKIO. I ; .: ;i i .1 i rni III • lii liilllai'd-room, and bowling -alloy. It is also ^irovided witli bedrooms in which the monibevs can Hnd accommodation for the ni,ght if necessary. The cooking was first-rate, and 1 spent by far the greater part of the tune that I stopped in Yokoliania in this comfortable clult. The shops were more numerous than those at Kobe, but I did not thiidc them any 'netter. There is an excellent photographer, whose name is Farsari, and from him I purchased a large number of views. On Tuesday, October 29, 1 went to Tokio by the 10.20 a.m. train, arriving there at 11.10. T at once hired a jinriksha ami drove to the Temple of Siiiba, passing on my way thnnigh the public gardens, which were expensively and prettily arranged. The Temple of Shiba is one of the most famous in Japan, and covers a large extent of ground. It 'S .specially noted as being the burial-] dace of most of the Slioguns, and the decorations of the toml)s and chapels were really most magnificent. Certainly, with the exception of those at Xikko, I had seen no temples in Japan to compare with this. After having spent .some little time in thorough enjoyment of this interesting spot I proceeded to anotlier temple called Atago-yama, wliich was situated on a steep hill and approached by two tlights of stone steps, the (»ne gjing straight up and down and the otb.cr winding in zigzag fashion ; tliey are called respectively the men's and women's staircases. Whether the two sexes do approach this temple se[)arately by the dilferent tlights of steps I am unable to say, but from the n;uiies one woull imagine that this was the case. From the farade in front oi the teni] 1l at the lop of tlie steps 1 ol)tained a splendid view of the whole city and .surrounding country, and here L took my lirst glimpse of the wonderful Fujiyama volcano, though certainly it could not be said 1 saw it with any dis'^inctness. After lunching at the Tokio Jlotel, which was situated TiCar the castle, 1 took a long drive out to the .Vsakusa Temple. This is generally regarded as one of the objects T^^ 1) v)rovided with omvuodatiou f^v Hrst-rate, and 1 liat I stopped in ^liops were more : thiidc them any r, whose name is uuuber of views. l,y tlie 10.20 A.M. hired a jiurikslia ;ing on my way extensively and one oi: tlie most nt of ground. It cc of most of the and cliapels were I the exception of Japan to compare thne in thorough )ceeded to another ituatcd on a steep ;one steps, tlie one I- winding in /igzi^g men's and women's .proaeh this teniple 'ps 1 am unable to ne that this was the ;ini le at the top of tlie whole city and ,' first glimpse of the crtainly it could not which was situated out to the Asakusa s one of the objects n !i.i 3 . ■ ri 't1 :illl \^ i li. ' I i*p i c o O f ■TTT .lATANRSE rHKY.SANTHKMr.M SHOW. 095 \ UXi ' nf ifreatest interest in «t arouiul Tokii). Xoi that tlioiv was anythini,' special alwut the teniiile itself, but lii'eause crowds of natives are jienerally tu be scon luddiuLj liitliday festival tlicre. The appmacli tu tlie temple was lined on lioth sides with shops and small booths devoted cliietly to the sale of toys and other fancy articles. "Waxwork exhibi- tions and jn,L,"4lin,i,' |>erfoiiiianees were also i;oinrice asked was £L';!St), I endiarked on board the steamer Kobe Maru. a sjilendid vessel only lately launched, ami therefore the newest in the Company's tieet. The Kobe Maru was one of the best ap])ointed steamers, so far as its Httin-'s and furniture were concerned, that I had ever j 1 ; ) ; , - I: I l4 'i1 • ! P « I ti ■:( ).7. ., i^ 1 'If -i-ftJtjistua:'':*" mmssammmm 396 PROCiRESS OF REPAIRS TO YACHT. i . P'^l r .stepped aboard of in my life, llor saloon extended the whole In'cadth of the ship and was panelled in lij^dit oak, the effect being e.\ceedin.i,dy pretty. The state-rooms were far larger and more commodions than is generally the case, and they were actually lilted nj) with such conveniences as writing- tables. The vessel was provided with the electric light and all the latt'st improvements of moilern civilisation; her engines were magnitieent, and she kept u]i a steady tifteen knots an hour thr(nighout the passage to Kobe, notwithstand- in:r that there was a considerable sea on and that the wind was blowing fresh dead ahead. The ])assage from Yokohama to Kobe ocrui)ied exactly twenty-four hours, and we reached ihe latter ])laee at noon on Thurstlay, October ;)1. On my arrival I lost no time in going oil' to the yacht, for 1 was natui'ally anxious to see how everything had been going on ill my absence, and what ]ii'o;j;ress had been made with the necessary repairs. 1 f(jund that a new mainmast had bet.m ])ut uji to replace the old one, in which dry-i'ot had a]i]ieiived. The new masl was a splendid spar which had been constructed and fitted at llui (Joverinnent Arsenal. In other res[)ects, howevei', I was considerably disa]>iioiiite(l and annoyed, for the steam-launch was not yet linished, although I had been delinitely promised that it would be ready before that dat'j, and the anchor which 1 had orderi'd to replace the one lost in Dillon ]>ay, Xew Hebrides, had not yet even been commenced. The launch, which 1 inspected at the iron- works, allbrd(!d me great satisfaction so far as it had been finished. It was decidedly larger than the old one which had been carru I away, and appeared likely to turn out an able sea -boat. In the evening I calculated the expenses of my late in- teresting expedition, which had carried nu; through many parts of the country seldom visitetl liy Europeans. I found that my journey of forty-four days had cost me 8-j21.72, or about £;';!, 12s. (id. Thus, including the guide's wages and 5! I'. (led tlio wlinlc ink, the effect ere far larger ase, and they es as Nvritiii.u- tric li.uht and ilisatiou ; lii'i steady fifteen uotwithstand- thal tlie wind oni Vukohania uid \vi' reached ) tlie yacld, lor Inn.n' liad been jiad heen made new mainmast lich (hy-rot liad spar whicli had nt Arsenal, in lisapjMtinted and nished, althoui;]! he ready hcfore 'd lo rei>laee. the lit yet even 1 een ted at the iron- as it had heen i ohl one which ' to tnrn out an s of my h\te in- e tlirou<>]i many )peans. I found t mo !?:321.7l', or [uide's wayes and A TlUl' TCI NA(;ASAK1. 1U7 all expenses, tlie jtjurney had heen accomplished mi an avera,i>e daily cost of ,t;i, 4s. Gd., whicli was consideraMy les.s than 1 had anticipated. The weather next fortnij^ht was dull and unfavouiahle, though the tedium was greatly ndieved hy the small Kng- lisli society at Kobe, as well as hy the otlicers of II. M.S. Iniperieuse, the flag-shi]) on the China station, which arrived on Friday, Xovemher I. Uu Saturday, Xovemher !», H.M.S. AFutiue also arrived, and on the following Mondav some really "'ood anil interestini' athletic sports were got up liy the ('tlicers and crew nf the two nien-o|'-\var. On Wt'dnesday. Xovendier 1 ;i. at the invitation of Cajilain M., 1 started in tiie Imperieu.-e on a trip to Nagasaki. We g(>t under way at .'l. l."i I'.M., and as we were leaving the har- hour we met tiie l''rench tlag-sldp cuiiiing in. .\s the admiral was on lioard, we saluted him with thiiteeu guns, and the salute was duly returned. The Iniperieuse steamed on this occasion at an average rate of niiu' knots an hour, and though I oeeujued the admiial's (piarters directly over the propellers, 1 dill not feel the slightest vihralioii. The following day we threaded our way llinumh a narrow clianiiel intcrsitersed willi numerous small 'slauds. The scenery on both shores was exceedingly pretty, though the hills on each side were low, and there was a general absence ot vegetation. We anchored for the first and second nights, lait on the third day we had arrived at a very wide pait of the chan- nel, and having jiassed through Shimonoseki Straits in the afternoon, we steameil on slowly all night, and anchored off Xagasaki at a ([uarter to eleven on the following day. This was Saturday, Xovemher Ki. The entrance to the harbour is extremely beautiful, far surjiassing anything in the inland sea through which we had come. The latter is generally considered to be exceedingly line, but in my opinion i !■ 'Ii f ! a! 398 IMPRESSIONS OF NAGASAKI. \ i it is iiiucli overrated, and I do not tluuk that it will compare with the Straits of ]\IaL;ellan and Smyth's Ohannel. The harltour at Xiijiasaki is conqiletely landlocked; tlu' entrance to it winds in between low hills covered with vege- tation. A prominent object as one enters is the Island of I'apenbertr, on which at one time \ ,ureat number of Chris- tians suflered martyrdom. AVe fou.id II.^M.S. Leander lyin^^ at anchor in the i>ort, as well as tlie U.S.S. I'alos and four IJussian men-of-war, amongst which was the lla<^-shii) Ad- miral Xamikoir. Curiously enough, this last-named vessel was built on the same lines as the Imperieuse, and the liussians claim that she is an imprtivement ujKin her, thoui:h this, fif course, the I'ritish oHicers strenuously deny. The Hfitel IJellevue, kept by a Frenchman, ai>]ieared to be the jirincijial inn at Xaj^jasaki, and the accommodation was fairly (■(jinfortable. The town itself was distinctly smaller than Kol)e, and beyoml a number of curiosity shops, in which the ])rincipal olijects for sale were articles made of tortoise-shell, there really seemed vi'ry littler worth lookin^L;' at. The houses are built mi tlu^ sid(» of a hill rising- up immediately from the barbd-.ii-, nud in the background on the hillsides are great multitu()es of tombstones. Having dined at the hotel, r returned to the Imperieupe to give a friendly and grsiteful adieu to my late hosts, and at midniglit I sailed in the s.s. Takachili(t-Maru on my return journey to K(»lie. The vessel was old-fashioned, and I was the only passenger aboard her. AVe went along at a steady ten knots an hour, and after stop])ing once at Shimonoseki, where the British and French shi})S were lired upon shortly after the opening of Japan to commerce, we arrived at Kolie at a ([uarter to ei'Jit on Alondav evening, November IS. Next day H.M.S, Severn arrived from Yokohama. In addition to the two English inen-nf-war, there were also four French .ships lying in the harbour. I visited the I'Vench admiral and the oHicers of the dillerent vessels, and during n I '^" TAKK PASSAOE FOR ENCW.AXD. MOO L will compare UU'l. iiiilockcd ; llu' rod with vo.i^e- tho Island of uber of Cliris- rx'iinder lyin,^ 'alos and four lla.L^-ship Ad- t-naiuod vessel ieusc, and the )on lior, thouL^li ;ly deny. The ired to he the ition was fairly y smaller than s, in whieh the if tortoise-shell, at. The houses [mediately from le hillsidt'S are led at the hotel, Uy and i^ratefid liled in the s.s. ihe. ' only passenefore 1 left to go on board the I'arthia, I jotted uj) tin; record of the log foi' llu! past yi'ar, and found that we had lieen at sea altogether one hundred an. After a six weeks' stay in l'lnj;land we left ."Marseille^ iiu the iTith March in the Afessa^eries steamer SaL;lialien. arriviuLi' at Kobe, rd'ter a most pleasant and enjoyalile passaj^e. at O.L'O .\.M. on Thursday, :\Iay 1. Captain Carrington met us in the new steam-launch, and immediately took us of! to the yacht. She certainly lookt'd extremely nice, and 1 was thoroughly satisfied with every- thiuL; that had been dtjue. The new hands who lia.d ln-en en,u'a,L;eil by Captain ( 'arriunton were an abledookiuLj bndy of men, the nationality of the majta-ity lieini^- Swede; aiul thou,ii;li 1 should personally have jjreferred I'lnt^lishmen, I was content to put up with the best that I could uet. ( )ur Fnnlish friends at Kobe seemetl deli^hti'cl to wt-Icnme us back; but there were no iiritish men-of-war in the liarbdui-, the oidy vessels being American, Uussian, and Japanese. After a week .spent in necessary final preparations we at length started once more on our voyage in the yacht, weighing anchor at 12..'!0 r.M. of Thursday, May S. The local yacht Snowtlake accompanied us for a short distance, but we .soon left her behind. The day was lovely, and we Ind a strong current in our favour, so that we ra[>idly passed tl'rough the r , ami sif,'litr'il '.•til .laimaiy ilic ("anatliaii lit real. Tlu' itt'il, tlie t'lii'il fv tliorouirlily s after IcaviiiL; nil fort in lately 11(1 f(ir llie re- we iiasst'il was FiDiii Moii- hc Atlantic in u Fc'Vauary .■'>. left ;\rarsri]K;> luer Sa^halii-n. uyalik' ])a.ssa,L;e. ani-lauiiL'li, au'l •crtaiiily looki'il eil with L'VL'iy- wliii liail lireii •looking,' Ixnly <>t tide; ami llinu;ili 11, I was content lited to wi'k'onie -of-\var in llie , Russian, ami L'paralioiis we at yaclit, weitiiiin.i,' The local yacht ice, Imt we souii ve liul a .stron^r sed t'l' rough the ARRIVAL AT I'lyriMU'Ari.uVSKr. 401 Straits and f>ut to the open sea. We now Jieaded our course f(ir retropauloYski, on the south-east coast of Kaniscliatka. Tiie distance of this ])ort from Kuhe is ahoiit UJ'.IO miles, and the direction lies nearly north liy east. AVe passed Siwo l*(jint shortly before eleven on the fol- lowimf day, and soon afterwards the wind shifteil, and the weather hecame dull and hazy, so that it was imjiossihle to take observations ; the currents, moreovei, were very strong in this neiglibourhood, and accordingly ni> reliance could lie ))laced on dead-reckoning ; we therefore Ikivi' to during the night, to avoid any chance of running u])on iJcillicM K'ncks. Sunday, May 11, was a lovely day, and soon after day- break we sighteil Kosu Island. Al 'J. p.m. we passed through the narrow straits between it and Sikim; Island, the sea here being ch(tp])y and confused with a tremendous head-swell, which caused us to roll about in a most uniileasaiit manner. About mid-way through the channel the look-out rejiorted " breakers iiliead " ; but though the water had every api)ear- ance of breaking over a long reef, it proved to be merely the effect of o])posing currents. The following day we ran I'll' miles under a brisk fair wind, and for the next week our course was on the whole steady and monotonous, with an average of a little over 120 miles a-day. At !) A.M. of Thursday, May '2'2, we sighted land at Cape liicamut, the coast, as we approached it, having a ruggeil mountainous ai»pearance, and the scenery altogether being maivell(»usly wild and grand, though the country presented a lonely and desolate aspect. At 11 P.M. we sighted the light on Dalni I'oinl at the entrance to Avatcha liay, and at a <[uarter past .seven next ninrning we anchored in the outer harl»our of Petropaulov- ski. The bay is certainly grand and noble, but it is sinqily ridiculous to compare it with that of llio de Janeiro, as is done by the v/riter of the '\'oyage of the .Marchesa.' The 3 E '.'( l! .M »l r ff ' :t imm 1? : ,J r P 'I* I te ilp. i Ik II 402 VISIT 'lO TIIK (;OVKHXOR. (inly VL'Ssul in imiL Wiis the: N'hulidnslock, of the Jiu.s.siaii Vdlimtcor llet't. Thouj^li il was now the; Ix'^inniuu <'f tlic last week ot' ]\Iay the inner harhonr was coniith'tely Iro/cn oviT, and the whulu scene was iheary and wintry in the extreme. The liouses were almost Imried in snow, and everything appeared un- invitinj;' and desolate. Accompanied hy Captain C'arrinLjton I went ashore in tlie morninj^' and called upon the Governor. .Vl the inner har- liour we were met hy two slei,t;hs drawn hy Ks(|uiinaux dogs, in which novel conveyances wi' wore rapidly driven to the (loverncr's residence. This was ii small wooiUmi house, heated to an uniJeasantly high temperature hy a huge American stove, the contrast hetwi'eii the sharp air outside and the close tem])crature within lieing most remarkalde, and, as 1 should imagine, very unhealthy. As the (Invernor and his wife could sjx'ak nothing Iiut Russian, our con- versation was carried on through the medium of an inter- preter, Mr (iray, agent for the American tirm of I'hillipeus iV Co. The (iovernor's full title was "Chief of the I'etro- })aulovski district and county." He was a military ollicer who had most unmistakahly risen from the ranks. AVhen I had completed my visit of ceremony to him I was taken to see the hurial-})lace of the sailors wlu) were killed at the attack of l'etroi)aulovski hy the allied l^nglish and French fleet on August 1*4, 1S.")4. The hurial-ground is a small enclosure containing three large graves, in which were severally interred the English, French, ami Russians. A wooden cross, painted white, stands at the head of each grave, but the snow was so deep that only the tops of the cro.s.ses could he seen above it. This grave -yard, which also contains a small memorial cliapcd, was that in which only the men were buried, the ollicers having been interred at Tarenskei harbour, on the op[)osite side of the bay. Uu a spit of luiul dividing the outer from the inner till' Kussiiiu WL'ck of yiixy iiud tlie wliulc The liouscs aii[H!areil un- t iislmre in tlic tliL- iiiiuT liar- i|uiiiiaux tlojis, (lliVfll lo tlic ADodt'ii house, ;■(' liy a huge ai'|i air outside st reniaiUiible, i the (iovernor isiim, our cou- n\ of an iuter- 11 of rhillipeus f of the retro- military ollieer ranks. When I 1 was taken to V killed at the ish and I-"reucli lund is a small II which were I llussians. A ' head of eaeii Illy the tops of lis grave -yard, pel, was that in LTS having been isite side of the r from the inner A cLitiuf.s 1'i;i;m:nt. 4 1 in harbour there stands a stone nbdisk. painted lilack uid surmounted by a gilt star and cross, whieli . i! n ( I ("IIAPTER XXXIX. THK nCXtXSUr.A OI" KA.M.SiIIATKA TIIK I'll! TliAlH-: AN lNI>i;sll!- AIU.K PI. All': or HKSIDEXCE — Till: t^lKKN's IsIUTIlDAY — A I ATK ■WINTER A lii:AI!-lli;NTIN(i KXl'DhlTION TAHENSKKI M All Hon; KLUt'III — A HIHK in A iMKi-SI.KIGH UEAH-lILNTINd UNDEIt DIFKICLLTIKS A THIAI, Or I'ATIENc 10 AND TEMrEK — STHANCiK HEIIAVIOnt (IK MY elu'ini;sH!- I!TI1I>.\Y A I ATI: KNSKKl IIAHUOUl! {-IIINTIN*; rXllKl! ITlMnCIl — STUANtiK HAY A NAliliOW Aii.MiiiAi, ruicii's OUXIJ. 1 by liussiaiis at amscliatka beiii,^' Tlie country was L7:.)0. It is pre- illou;other twelve loftiest of these hoi-rht of 15,040 radually decveas- :en was in 1870, The settlement t25. The liouses 1. There are two owever, could be 'arco. There are / cattle. Almost which are cauj-lit 1 4 TlIK (^LKKNS hIKTilDAV. 40i in incredible numbers in the sumnicr and salted down for winter cousinni)tion. The one trade of ihi' jilace is in furs, tlic chief of which are sable, silvi-r fox, red f r^il f I ! Hi i : ! ! ii ^ 1 ' • 40G A SKVKIJK WIXTKI!. SovcreiLiU. In iIm' excniii^ the ( luvcninr, liis \Yif(\ and Mr (Jray dined nn Ipnard, and vouiained till ten n'cli.i'k. I'n- fortnnatc'ly iIk; little bear fell uverboard tn-day ami was dr(i\vn('(l, ninch in tlu; sunnw and disappointment of all. Sonic of niy men a^ain hauled the seine that ni_L;ht ami caught a larj^e (juantily of herriniis, win'eh were softer and not so ^ood as those we Liet in Knj,dand. Thi! foUowin.n day we jmsted letters on hoard the Vladi- dostock, the otlicers of which entertained us very hospitahly with champagne and various sorts of liipieurs. They all belon,^ed to the Jiussian imperial navy, though the vessel herself was merely a merchant steamer emi)loyed to eairy the mails to all the settlements Imrdering the Sea of Okhotsk, as well as to Tetropaulovski. From them, as widl as from every one else to whom I spoke, I learned that the winter had been unusually severe and late. The inner harbour was jfenerally open by the lOth ^lay, by which time also the snow ought to have disappeared. Under the mo.-t favour- able eircumstances the summer is very brief, as the snow commenees to fall again early in September. ])urin,!:; this short inleival the reoi)le <'enerallv manage to raise rvc and potatoes, liut they were very despondent during my visit, as it would be a ditlieult matter to dj so during that year. On Monday, 'Slay 20, I started in the launch at 10 a.m., accomi)anied by !Mr (leorgo and a native hunter, who had been strongly recommended to me by Mr (iray. This man was to be my guide and inductor on a bear-hunting expedi- tion which I had arranged to undertake. This was the fust time that I luul an opi)ortunity of testing my new steam- launch, and so badly did it steam that it took us throe hours lo reach 'iarenskei harbour, though the distance was only nine miles. On our arrival we left in dog-sleighs, our track lying for the tirst live miles through thick birch -woods, which no doubt in summer would be very ])retty, though th(> trees then were jierfectly Itare. On emerging from the wood. wife, ami Mv (t'cldck. I'n- (lay ami was tiiicul lit' all. lal iii.ulit and re sot'lcr and rd the Vladi- t'lv lidspitably ivs. They all mil tlio vessel Idved to cany ea of Okhotsk, s well iis from the winter had r harbour was time also the e most favour- f, as the snow r. Durinp, this I) raise rye an-l ring my visit, as that year, inch at 10 a.m., lunter, who had ,ray. This man dmntinj; exjK'di- his was the iivst my new steam- k us throe hours stance was only leij^hs, our track .'iv birch -woods, i-etty, though the n; from the wood, A i:ii»K I.N A i)uc;->i.i;i(iii. lit: we carae ui»on "j.cn cnuntry. and »h,\\ at'irrward^ dusked a large lake, wliich was ((imiilelcly I'ln/en ovn-. 'I'lie immii- d(»L.'s eviilently IkuI a hard (inie of ii, as the mihw was very soft, and they sank u|i Id iheir hniks at alinost every sten. It wa- ..iarvellous Imw well trained thest intelligent animals were. Cue two leaders in ]iailiiiilar seeming t«i understand everything the driver said {<< them. They ai( . hnwrver, very savage amongst themselves, indid'^ing in a tight when- ever the ojt|Kirtunily olleix. When nni eniia-ed in hard work, they only receive one meal in t weiity-foiir iiums, this being given to them at night: it consists cif half a dried sahnou. When «lui;hly eiijoyaltle in tlie sensation of liein^ canied aloni^ rapid! v tlirnuijh tlie exhilaratin.L'; crisp nntrninLr air warndy \vrappef a mile from the sjiot where the sleigh had stopped, but it took me fcjrty minutes' hard w !■: to reach it, for at almost every stej) I sank up to my waist 'n snow, and haut ra]iitl stream. Owing to .some subterranean heat the ground for about a quarter of an acre round our tent was clear of snow. In the afternoon another bear was seen in the distance, and the men again went after it. T took good care liowever, this time, to wait in comfort ; and it was fortunate I did so, for they did not return till half-past six, having again had their trouble for nothing. We saw a numl)er of wild duck abo t e spot, but unfortunately I !iad not brought a shot-gun witu me. After supper Gecn-ge and I turned in under a littl(> tent, and after having had a good night-cap of hot vvhisky-aiul-water, we were .soon comfortably Wt'atlKT al m thoroui^lily alon;i ra]>itllv nnly \vrapiK'\U. to 111", It was bart'ly the sU'i;4U had s\ '..-. to reach it, (ist 'M snow, and ^hocs Nveic i^ivi'n Id n- t uianaye to tice recommended a tree waiting in ich time the men r more of the bear. at half-past two itualed at llie f>ido ;ome subterranean ^n acre round our I another bear was I went after it. I in comfort; and it i-turn till half -past ..thinji. ^Ve saw a 111 fortunately 1 had supper George and • having had a good re soon comfoitably STr!AN«;K HKHAVion; (ir (;rn»i:. 409 ;isl(H'p. Consideiini: the lucallty ihr iiiuhl sva< imi ;tt all feed. Tlu> sun was now very high, and I iniiihl llie ;4laif I'lmii tin- snow most trying to my eyes. .\t tliive o'cldik a liear aj)]ieared over the civ.^t of the hill jn>t (i]i|insiif to ns, ami the hunter started ofl". pivtendiug lliat lie was -ding hi drive it ilown to nie. He had a long stee]i elinili. and ii was ludi'- jiast five l>efore he readied the tojt. lie managed success- fidly to get in the rear of the bear, wiiieli then eomn.cnced trotting rapidly down the hill, coming straight towards nie. 1 uow felt at length that 1 was certain to sei me it, I'oi' even if it should pass out of slmt. I could easily liavt; eauglil ii up in the sleigh l)efore it rea<,-hed the mountains on the other side. The wretched hunter, Imwevei-, v.ho was sujipox'd to have eome out as my guide in order to pro\ ide me with s})ort, ([uietly cut it of!" and shot ii liimsell'. Tin; jioor ani- maVs haek was broken by a succession of shots whieli he ihvd into it ; l>ut as it still showed ]>lenly of life, the man was cieaily afraid to go near it, and stood about liUU yards otl blazing away at it until the jioor beast was liteially riddled with bullets. I made my way to the spot as rapidly us ])ussihle, brimming over wiih anger and indignation, and my oulv reiiret was that I was ignorant of the Jiussian language, in which, if I couhl, I would have given him a jiieee of my miml in the most forcible language possible, lie actually wanted to wait and skin it ; but 1 absolutely forbade him to do so, feeling still nioiv annoyed at Iiaxing been d; piivci! of my sport when I saw what a handsome and large animal the unforluiuite War was. 1 was so disiTUsted with the hunter tliat I dctcrmineil ,' '^ ]./, 41(1 l!i;T(iIi:V[N.SKAVA 15AV. !. i ■i. !' t 1 , i^ H i !j i [ 1 ■ J II' to rcluiii til rfti'iiii;iiil(i\ ski rally m'.vl iiinniiiiu. Acconl- iiit^ly N\<' staiU'il ill .").ri(l A.M., iiiid ,L;i»iiiu f;isl (ivcr the liaiil snow, we iTuclu'd Klurlii at S.-'IO, wlicrc, wc stopittjd to break- fast, resuming; our jdiiiiiry suon at'liT It'ii. Tlic ice on i\u- lake wliirli we liail cmsxil rni ilie IMnnday lid'ore was already li(\L;innin;^ to lireak n\K and we were uhliji^Ld t(,) take a eireiiitou.s route round the lake. At hali-iiast twelve we reaehed tin? S(!a, and liy i'nur o'clock I was iiack again on boaril the yaeht. The huntii' dcn)anded 7."» rouhle.s lor his serviees, hut ! only paid hini .".'.t. AVe went aslK)re to hid the ( mvernor .U'loil-hye, and hy hini I was ini'onned that I should tind nood, anchora,tfe and sjiorl at Asalclia Uay, whither accordin.gly I determined to ]iroceed. liefore we left the harhour the (iovcnior sent another little bear on hoard, which was not nearly so tame as the former one, and Ih'w at every one who went near it. Three day.s afterwards this little hear was found dead in one of the hen-coop^, apparently havinii .sueeumhed to the eold. After a eou.ple of days' run at sea we reaehed Asatcha l>ay, which, to my ilisappointmeiu, I found to be entirely v\)ii\\, without shelter of any kind. It was simply mit of the (piestion aiich.orin;.^ in it. and I therefore decided to try r.cichevinska\ a I'ay, which the 'Cruise of the .Mar- ehesa ' mentions as an e.xcellent harbour, and a ,L;(>iid centre for sport. This lay t twelve \vc hack a^^aiii t>ii loultles t'ur his lyc, and liy liiiu )ra,nc and sjMirt lu'd to iirocced. t aiiutlicr litlK' ' as tlic foruiL'i' as found dead t sui'f/uniljL'd to oaclied Asatclia ! to l)c entirely i .siniidy out oF [ore ilecided to >e of the Mar- u\ a ,nou(l centre at(dia 15ay, and IV, dinie 1. broad and spa- li's di.Nlanl iVoni us an outer and l; narrow ,si>it of il as we liad no st earel'nlly into ilsnian, was put ;s as decreasinu A NAiaioW KSCAl'H <»K ( .llolNhlNc. 11 1 with ,i,'reat reu'tilarity, and very i;rathially linin In fathom-; m-ar the entrance to tlirce fathoms aliout two miles inside. A litthj fai'thcr on we '.^ii a ijuartci' Ic-s three, ami ( ';ir- rinyton then let ^o the andior, Neciin:; out \'> talhoms of chain. Tin' actual di'am;ht of the ship was II feel 1 .', inch, and I cannot conceive wlial he could ha\e Imm-m thinkiiiL; of to carry on into such shoal water, and then to veer (mU chain so as to cnalile hei' to swim^ into >iill shal- lower. Xo olijcct was to In- trained in -hoaliii;^- four fa- thoms, as there was the same amoinii of sheltei- there as larllu'r in. The natural conse(|uence was, that almost im- mediately after letting' ,i,'o the anchor, we hiimpeil heavily three f»r four times, ami afterwards had a \n\vj: and din.i nil job kedj.,nnL; out into ',)\ fathoms. When this little '■,»////■< - fftiijis had lieeii safely surmouut(>d, i veut ashiuc in the din;j;y to try and shoot somelhiiiL;. Thot; wen' many In-ur- patlis about, but no siLjn.s of the animals tliem>elves. How- ever, I shot a duck resem!)linLj a widi^con, and I al-o tired at a seal, but missed it. The; duck was cooked for tlinuiM', but il proved (piite uneatable owinj; to its stroni; Hshy taste. The next day was wretchedly bleak, ami the wind ami sea were rising; tln' yacht again bum]ied three limes, and I therefore ileeided to leave the Ijay as soon as )»ossible. We s[)ent the whole morning kedging out, as the wind was blow- ing straight in, and, ha\ ing no chart, we were afraid to beat for fear of ro( ks. It is really nmsL a.MiUMdiing what unre- liable information on(( meets with, bi.tii in b(M)ks ami in personal intercourse; for this lletchevinskaya I lay, which was highly spoken of in the 'Cruise of the Manhesa,' proved just as great a source of disappointment as Asatejia l>ay, which ha climate, moieover. was most unpleasant, and nothing would have persuaded me to go farther north. I ilierefore made ujt mv nnnd to leturii onc(> more to the ■'■% ._*■- I' i 412 AD.MIKAI, I'l'JcKS (lUAVi:. iP.i South Sea-< ; ami attrr Imviiiu' taken in walri' ni Tai't'ii'^kci harlioiir, I decided ilmt I wnidd steer tnr the .Marshall Islands. We spent tlii'ee days at Tareiiskei — namely, 'I'lir.rsday, Kriday, and Salunlay, tlie ."ih, Otli, and Ttli of dnne; ami 1 took the n](|)tirtnnity . in weight. The next day they caught a good many trout and a few small salmon, hut the cateh \vas nothing like so gre.it as that of the night Ix.'fore. It was really a little too emly in tlui season tor salmon, hut we were told that in the course, of another fortnight or so they would he there literally in millions. The streams which they ascend to s]iawu are often com- pletely choked with them, and after spawning the old tish die without returning to the sea. AVe naturally had a g(K»d feast of them whilst we were there, and they were as excellent to the taste as any that 1 have ever eafceu in Kngland. On Sunday, -lum' S, \vi! starte(l again for a leugtheiieil passage hoiinil for I.egiep, in the Marshall Islands, about L'TOO miles to the souih. 41. J at 'raretiskti ill.- Marshall fly, 'rin-.vsilay, if . 1 11110; iiii'i I •t; (»f Atliiiival lid wen; killnl ,1' ImmUcs, iis 1 l(.r buiiiil ut'ler loiiioiitnry, ami lie, and liciivin;^- UK. liKli I, 1HS2." L' UlOSl Slid CSS t'ul iui.i-ht 2."»0 saliiiuii '21}. 11'. in \v('i;J!lit. It aiitl !i IVw siiiiiU loat iis tluii of the Illy ill thv) season ciinvsc (if aiinllu'i' .'liiUy in iiiillioiis. n are often eoin- vniii;^' the t)Ul tish • naturally hatl a re, ami they were lavo ever eaten in 1 for a Icn^theneil hall Islaiuls, about (ir.\i»Ti:i: xi,. A VAHiKi) lUN or Tni(i;i; \vi:i:ks — riii; maiisiiai i. mianps — I.KfllKI' AN oIll.KilNO SKU'l'llK rilh; (iKliMAN roI.ONV - NATiVK nKi.iciois i;i;i.ii:r — .iai.iit — Tin; (ikiiman mimmis- SloXKIi — IUI'|-|rlI.TV IN nHTAININi; M I'l'l.IKS MV SAHINti- MAsTKii's rNiiKAHt)NAiii.i: li i:«H' i>T — ANumiai hisA(aua:Aia.io INCIDKNT — KUHAIK ISLAND— AN INlNTKUI.IllKNT THAIiKK — TlIM rAltOMNK ISI,ANI)S- A I'HoTKSTANT MrssloNAHV STUONOlIol.K Till': NATIVK KINO— A sia.r-liKaiTKol S MI»|(iNAIiV — INTiai- KSTiNo nriNs — A laa iTi i I. isi.a.. — tim: saii iNo-MAsTiai's sTUANiii; iav;(oi!s i.\ navi(;atiiin \vk snarr iin; isi.anh i>i" roNAI'l, June i' Jiihj JS, IS'JO. Tin; wi'ather duriii^' the next thnn- \vt'( ks was LUiirially tiin' and jileasant, luit tiic wind \aricd coiisidcialily, and tiic i on- si'((ii('iK'e was lliat 011 soiiic days we laii many more miles tliaii on otlu'i's. (Mirlicsi run was nn AVi'ilncsday, .lunc II, wlicn wi' did L'.^'ll miles, and our worst was Miaiday, .1 une To, wlu'ii we only acconiiilishcd 4!*. it was a curious fad thai we had a fair wind with ns for exactly one week, followed by a head wind diiiiii_n- the second, aial that a,L;aiii .■succeeded by a fair wind duiin'; the third. Little hajiiieiied durinj,' the passage worthy of reeordin,n in this boolc, th(MiL,di just before leaviiij; the Kaniselmtka eoast I manatied to si t and secure on board a small hair-seal. It was very ddi.yht- I'ul day after day, as wc got into the more southeily latitudes, to find the temperature urowing- waiK.'.'r, and the clinialt.' altogether becoming more enjoyable. .1 ^*, ■^■(^■wqrviVM ill ■ii i1 i i ■1 ■1 il.'- :ii:^| 414 AN ()I!I.I(;[N<. sKII'I'Klt. At tliiyliifak <>\\ Tiir-dny, .liily I. we sii^htfil ImmiI in llir Miirsliiill Isliiinls. Soiiii iittcr iiiiir we jinivcil (iff tlic SmiuIi Pass, l.cLiicii Islmul, iuitl linvc [>< whilst ('a]iiaiii ('arrin.utnn ami iiiyscir Went nil' in tiic lilrlinut tn cxaiiiiiii' tin- passai^i'. The islands art- t'nrnicil km a reel' cndnsini,' a layixin, into wliidi it was ncccssaiv |nr ns in ciitrr licfori' we could anrjiur. W'r nuticcd tlic niasls nl' n sclinnncr in llic lagoon, and siKin al'triwards a Imat ]nittinL; nil' linni it. so lliat Wr roturncd lo tin- yadit l<> await its arrival. It ipiovcil tn t'ontnin llic ski|i]M'i- uf tlic! scIkhuht ami a ]iilut. The fninn-r had lic'cu just alMiut tn start lor .lalnit. lait on seciuL; us In- had kimlly delayed sailin.i^ in order to lend us his jiilot to take lis in. 'riKtunih the vessel llew American colours, the captain was a Swede, and, like most of his conntrynuMi, a ino.st civil ami oMi^inn iiuui. Soon nU.v.v ten we lK'<,'an to enter the lagoon, which was full of shoals and coral -licad.s. Thcso, however, were easily set'u fioni the masthead, owinj; to the liriL:ht sun whiili was hehind us. '{'he lireeze was stron.ij; and dead ahead, and the weather s(|ually, with frequent showers; we were therefore n considerahle linit; heating' u]», and it was one o'clock before we had come to anchor oil' the settlement, in aliout 10 fathoms of water anu, iiili' lire we ciiulil ill the lii;inuli, it, s(i tliat \Vf I I prnVl'il til t. 'I'lu' furniiT 11 si'ciii'^ u-^ li'' lis his iiilni [i> ill! ((iluius, the c'(iuiinyiiit!ii, a II \\v lic^aii to ami cnial-ln'Utls. iiastlicail, owhvA riic lin'i'/.r was [ siiually, with tusiili'valilc liiii'' Wt! liad fOllU' tn Ills of wat»'r aiitin;4 those of their own nationality. The (ierinan eommissioiiei is stationed at daliiit, and a '^iiiilioat is oeeasjonally >ent iniiiid the inlands; hut tin' < leiiiiaiis are not -uecessfiil in their mode of de;din'4 witll the liati\e-, uho h-.te and detfsl ihelii from the liotiom df their hearts. Thi> is scarcely to l,c Wondered at, I'ov they are treateil liv them in .1 liai-li. in considerate, and hinh-handed maniu'r. Tiie taxes, whieh aiv paid in cocna-nuts, aie so heavy that, when the sea>oii is indiirereiit, tlii-re are ahsolutely not sutlicieiit left lor the food of tim natives. Ilea\ y dues and eom|nilMiry |iilota,L;e are charLjed on ships at daliiit. and a ridieidoiisly siriiiLjent order jirevails that a tradin,i;-\i's>el can only ilear fnnii the port of .laliiif for one island in the i^ioiip, and that. lieloi-e vi>itin,L; another, >Iie must return to .laluit, enter, pay fre>h • lues, and cli'ar aijain. The Marshall Islands are very thinly populated, and in ihe launnii at l,e^ie]i, which contains 4ti island-, there were oidv Ktll iiati\e.s. The rapiil decrease of the populalioii is attrihiitcd chielly to the scarcity of food, whieh is rendered all the heavier h}' the (lermaii iin]'o»itioiis. The iiali\c houses have their roofs ami sides thatched with pandainis, and tlu! nia,jority of the people iheniselvcs are still heathen-^. So far as I can uallier, no missittnary had ever hccii at l.e.uiep, and their only reli.i^ious ht-lief aiijieared to tie in nia^i.'. I'iach trilie has its own sorcerer, who, am. iior, to tell the truth, ilid W(! st'c any sharks ill the lanottu during the time of our stay there;. I made ;i i^ieat many attemi)ts t i-.m. of Thuisday,.Iiilv 10. Whilst we were at dinner we received a visit from two younif JMi^lishmen, who were roving; round the world, ami had lalidy arrived from San l"'raneisco. The American settlement at -laluil a]ipeared to me a mi.serahle jjlace, consislin,!,' nu'rely of half-a-dozeii hou.ses, all belonj,'in,!H to Messrs Crawford, and a few native huts. The (lernian Commissioner, i)r 15., uj)on whom I called tlu! day after our arrival, was an a,nreeahle man who spoke Kn^lish well. Ife had only been stationed at -Faluit a year, havinj; t'oi'ini'rly been Vice-Con.sul at Samoa. ][is hou.se was delight- fully cool and comfortable, and he Iiad a lari^e and interesting collection of curios, which he had got together from dill'erent parts of tlie World. The while po[tulaliou of .laluit num- ;llUlt(Ml ill til' [lie ii;ilivi's. a^ 1 eiiU'red tlu' |M mil sn little on tlit'ir I'iiii scajtcl willi'iiil see any --liiU'k> ■i,.. 1 nmtlf ii llii' natives, Imt iiitivrly val\U'- wcaiHins liavin:^: laincd, li(i\V''Vi'V, jicarl lisli-li'iok. n at 'I'aliiti ami tin at IK.I'' A.M., (lor tilt" guidiiiw )\v i)assix.ii;i'. The miles, l)Ul tUo mi" ss, that it aelually iluil. lomenl at ii.l.". i-.M. dinner we received were rovini:; round 1 I'runcisco. q.peared to i»ie a -a-dozen houses, all r native huts. The n I called the day who spoke Kn,t;lisli iluit a year, haviuj^ s house was (U-lij^ht- arj^e and interesting otlu-r from dillbreut iiou of -Taluit uuni- rNi;i:A.soN.\i;i,i: i;i:(,tii:sT u|- >\ii.in(.-m \si i;i;. ii: hcred altnLiethcr hill .".O soiiN, aliim^t all n|' whnni were in lilf cIMltloy n|' ihr .I.dllit-( Ir-clNiJial't ( '"lll|',in\ . ,1 (iilliiMII tradinu' liini wliiiii cnntmllcd tin- wli'dc u|' ili,. ari liipcla'^ip. This lirni was cxci'ssivcly weallhy. and pal I ih.' Siai'' all expenses eonneeted with the ijnvriniueiit of ihr i^lamls. I'liit I'lir this, (lerniany would jaolialily have ahandinicd tlir mldiiv MiHU! time au;o, and pns^ilily the islands mi'^iii lia\f lin-n all the hetter for it. In the al'tcniiiiin the < 'nmmi-^ioner canii' on Imaid Mie yacht In iciiii n my call. Ilf was aicumpanicd li\ liisx.ii'- tary, Mr I'.ramiris, whom I have alri-ady meiil inncd a- I lie individual who liad niaile hi- naim- sn disa;,'reeahly mhIih imis as Taniasese's i'linit' .Mini'-tt-r at Samoa. I iiad the Lovali'si ditliculty in ohtaininu the sup]'Iies which I iv(|uiivd for the yacht at this place, and F had to visit seVrial >mall \illau[i's heCore I could L;et anvthini.'. 'I'hcrc were no iii'js on the islands at all, and very tew fowls and diicK-., Wr managed to ';et two fowls, for which we ]>aid ont; mark thai is Is. — ajiiece. The nominal i)rice of ducks was fi)\ir luiiiks, init none of the natives would sell any. The iU!\t ilay wc; s])ent chielly at ihe house of Mr ()., the manaucr of the CJesellsehaft Company, who cnicrtaincd us courteously at ids home, a pretty idace, well situated, and in the midst of a lar^e tjardcn. (hi Monday, .luly M, the day on which 1 had arraii'^cd to sail, I was greatly asttjnisheuldo::l\ conclude that, for some rca.sons known to himsell', he was nnwilliM'4 to '^o to Australia, whither I had told him f hoped lo mrixc hy the end of the year, it was of course out of the (|iiestioii that I could accede to his reipiot on ilie -.pur of ilie moment, 3 G IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I .25 iS||a 112.5 "7. IIIII12 IIM Hi 4 2.2 2.0 mm LA. Ill 1.6 J i .3 I % <5>^ /. c^^ ^ c% ^^W w O^A Photograpllic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 iV _ ^ a A? # %^ ,:3 I L'P/ i/x 6^ iw \ I' I ■1 1'^ 1 i ! U- k I 418 KUSAIE ISLAND. tliouj^li ill reality T did not regret his desire to leave, for I had considered his conduct to he most unsatisfactory durinu; the time that the yacht had hecn laid up at Kobe. 1 theri;- fore suggested that he should come on to Ponapi, as his quitting my service would then look less al)vu])t, and I even offered to go there for the special purpose of landing liim. Another unpleasantness occurred during the morning, for I was compelled to go ashore and ohtain the services of the Commissioner to have ^M'Lellan arrested and sent o)i hoard, as he had been absent without leave since Saturday night. About an hour afterwards he was brought ol'f by the German police in a very drunken condition. About o.'20 P.M. the Commissioner and Mr ]»randeis came on l)oard to say good-bye, and ten minutes later we were under way. Tlio next day was a wretched one, the rain descending in torrents, and making all attempts at observations impossible. The night was calm, and we did not make a knot an Iiour. The next day we only ran 07 miles, and the day fullowing 47, but on Friday, -luly IS, a fair breeze sprang u[), and dur- ing that and the following day we ran 259 miles. On Sunday, July 20, we sighted Kusaie Island in the midst of an awful thunderstoi-m, and at eight o'clock a boat came off from Chabrol harbour containing Crawford's native trader, who proved a singularly unintelligent man, from whom we could obtain no information whatever. Thougli we were only six miles from the entrance to tlic harl)our, the wind, sea, and current were so strong against us that we found it impossible to make any headway, and during the whole of that day ami the following night we were tossing about without gaining a foot. I was greatly struck by the picturesque appearance of tlie island, the mountains of which rose to a height of over 200(j feet, densely clad with bright green tropical vegetation from base to summit, and crowned with sharp and (piaintly shaped VISIT TO THE KIXG. 419 to leave, for T faetoiy during!; iiln'. 1 tliei'c- Ntiiapi, as his ])t, and I even landing liini. nioniinq', for I services of tlie sent on l)oai'd, iaturdny niglit. ly the Gerniau I'randeis came later we were descendinu; in ons impossible, [not an lioni'. 13 day fdllowinif iig u\), and dur- les. nd in the midst :'k a boat came wford's native ;nt man, from ;cvcr, Tliougli lie harbour, the ist us that we md during tlie e were tossing tearance of tlie it of over 2000 egetation from uaintly shaped peaks. About a mile oil' the X.K. point of the island was a small islet, apparently connected with tlie mainland i;y a reef, and having on it a few cocoii-nut trees. Strange to sav, it is not mai'ked on either Imray's or the Admiralty Chart. At daylight next morning we luund ourselves farther away from the harl)Our than we had lieen when darknes.s set in the night before. At G o'clock, however, the wind shifted, and enabled us to lay a straight course for it. I decided, however, not to take the ship in at all, as I was afraid that 1 should have great difficulty in getting out again, the wind and sea being both dead in, and the entrance lieing too nar- row to beat out against them. At 7 a.m. the trader, who had left us in the afternoon of the previous day, came oil' again in his boat, and at eight o'clock 1 went ashore with him. As soon as the boat was observed coming in, the S[ianisli Ihig was hoisted at the settlement on Lele Island. Tnuuediately on landing I proceeded to the king's house, who received me with great hospitality, and who, to my surprise, spoke Eng- lish perfectly, having been many years at sea in American whale-ships. He informed me that he had even visited England. The natives of tin; ("aroline Islands appeared to me to give evideuje of being akin in their origin to those of the ]Mar- shall Islands, for their houses were very similarly constructed; and in many of their manners and customs they appeared to resemble them closely. Their canoes, moreover, were con- structed on the same pattern, though they were longer and better iinisb.ed. ]\Iost of them were painted red, and they did not a])pear to have any sails. Here I obtained without any dilliculty a good number of curiosities, amongst which were a very fine pair of shell hatchets and several native waist-mats, which were most beautifully made from the fibre of the banana-leaf, and dyed in brilliant colours. The people are a line race, the woiaen especially being decidedly good-looking ; the men were clothed in European 0.] 1^ ! M II I m 420 A PHOTESTA^'T MISSIONARY STRONfiHOLD. garments, and the women in Imlolv.s. The island of Kusaie is a great Protestant missionary strongliold, and tlie people appeared to me painfully good. They none of them d;ired to drink or smolce, and Avhen I oU'ered the trader a news- paper he piously replied that he never read anything except his Jiible. Xotwithstanding all these Ihie professions, the missionaries have not succeeded in inducing the king to stop his grog and tobacco, if he can get a chance of enjoying him- self in this manner in secret. He was delighted witli a bottle of beer which I gave him at lunch, but begged me not to tell the missionary, for that if he knew he would be very angry. The native missionary tried to sell me some sweet potatoes. I had previously learned from the trader that the proper price was three cents a pound ; but this self-righteous individual, who would have been scandalised at any of his converts drinking a glass of beer or smoking a pii)e, was not above trying to cheat me egregiously, for he asked $3 for a barrel which could not have held more than HO lb., and when I asked to have them weighed he pompously declined to agree to this. It is needless to say that no bargain was concluded between us. Tlie king took me to inspect some remarkably interesthig ruins near his village, of which, however, he could give me no information, except that he believed they had been built by the islanders as a means of defence in some remote ages of antiquity. They were evidently the remains of a series of large forts, the walls of which were still standing in many places to the height of 20 feet. Tiiey were built of very massive roughly hewn stones, and had evidently been in a ruined condition for a great length of time, for they were almost entirely overgrown with thick ferns and creepers. The king informed me that sinular ruins were to be seen on the island of I'onapi. On my bidding him farewell, he kindly presented me with several curios, besides an innnense quantity of fruit. His island, indeed, appeared to me to be iHOLD, HISTORY OF THE CAROLINE ISLANDS, 421 I ml of Kiisaie 1(1 tlio peojile if tlieiu (lart'd vader ii iiews- lythiiig except rofessioiis, the e kiii^- to stop enjoying him- i,i;iite(l witli a legged nie not would be very le some sweet trader that the 5 self-righteou.s at any of his jiipe, was not isked $3 for a lb., and when ly declined to bargain was ,bly interesting aid give nie no been built l)y 'emote ages of of a series of ding in many built of very itly been in a for they were and creepers. 3re to be seen m farewell, he es an immense d to me to be a land ovcrllowing with plenty, for bananas, pines, oranges, lemons, limes, and indeed almost every sort of fruit, ap])a- rently grew there; and in addition to this, pigs, pdultry, and cattle coiild be purchased at remarkalily I'easonable prices. Shortly before four in tlie afternoon we went about and steered for I'onapi, where I had promised to land Captain Carrington. The next day was very warm, and tlie air wonderfully clear, the island of Kusaie being still distinctly visiltle, though distant at least 43 miles in our wake. The distance from Kusaie to L'onapi was only 325 miles, yet so little were we favoured with the necessary breeze that this short dis- tance occupied us eight days to accomplish. We sighted one or two of the smaller islands in the Caroline group, which were first discovered by Alvaro de Saavedra in ir)2S, but which received tlieir name from Adndral Francesco Lazeano, who visited them in 1C80, and christened tliem after his sovereign Charles II. of l^pain. From this time until 1880, exactly 200 years, tlie Caroline Islands were generally con- sidered part of the Spanish possessions, though in reality they were never occupied by Spain ; but in that year a dispute arose between Spain and Cermany owing to a (ierman gunboat having hoisted their national Hag on Yap, the westernmost island of the group, liy mutual consent the matter was ' nally referred to Tope Leo XII 1. for arbi- tration, and he gave liis decision in favour of Spain. The Carolines are now divided into two portions territorially, with a governor on l'ona])i and Yap respectively, and these portions are known as the Fiastern and Western Carolines. During the passage from Kusaie to Ponapi I was much worried and perplexed l)y differences which arose e^■ery day concerning our observations. The sailing-master, chief odicer, and myself always took them and worked them out separati'ly, and np to this time we had never differed from one another in our results to any appreciable extent. Every iil'''if :i . 422 DISCREPANCIES BETWEEN OBSERVATIONS. i I (lay, liowevor, now, tliout^li tlio chief oliV;er, wlio was a first- rate navi.nator, made liis results practically to coincide with mine, the discrepancies between our results and those of tlie sailing-mastei', Captain Carrin,u,ton, were invariably a matter of many miles. AVe sighted the island of Ponapi at 1.30 a.m. on Monday, July 28, liut the l)reeze was so light throughout that day that we made but very little progress towards it. As we very gradually neared the island it appeared to me to Ije nut nearly so pictures(jue as Kusaie, its contour being much more uniform, though at the same time it was densely wooded. The peculiar sugar-loaf hill in Port Metalimien stood out distinctly as an exce]ttion to the general uniformity of the island. At 10 r.M. I went below, everything being apparently right. Tlie night was fine and the sky clear. li i-l 11 t'^ || i 'i i I [ONS. was a first- 2oincule wilii those of tlio ibly a matter 423 ill , on jMonday, out that day s it. As we to me to lie r being much was densely t Metaliniien -al uniformity rythiny being le sky clear. CHAPTER XLI. A TERIUliLE niSASTER— THE YACHT ASHORE AN AWFUE NIGHT OF ANXIETY AND SUSPENSE — THE NYANZA DOOMED OPERA- TIONS ON THE WRECK SANTIAGO DE LA ASCENCION DISTURBED CONDITION OF THE ISLAND 1 WITNESS ACTUAL WARFARE SUICIDE OF A SPANISH COLONEL END OF THE OUTBREAK. Jiihj 20-Scpkuihcr 21, ISOO. Ti:esday, July 29, 1890, is a day which will ever be marked iu black in the annals of my memory, for at 1 A.M. we were all suddenly awoke by a buui].ing, grating shock, which told us unmistakably that the yacht had gone asliore. We dressed as rapidly as possible, the swell and surf forcing the vessel meanwhile every moment farther and farther up the reef, so that she began to heel over in a very alarming manner. When I reached the deck, within two minutes after the yacht first struck, I found her leaning over at a terrildy sharp angle. It was evident that slie had sus- tained a very severe injury, and tlic immediate danger was lest she should be driven right over the reef and sink in deep water on the other side. The weather had changed as soon as we had turned in, and the rain was descending iu torrents. The boats were lowered as quickly as possible, and all hands embarked, the chief officer, myself, and the proper boat's crew going off in the lifeboat, whilst the sailiu"- master and the rest of the hands followed ir the , I' ' lit # Mimf 424 AN AAVFUL XIGHT OF ANXIKTY. -,( ' i! /• •^ <« launch. Xo soonur had we sliovcd oil' ihau I iioliced that all the lamps in the sahion and caljins had huon left hurnin;^, and I ihc'vcfovt' returned to ])UL ihma out. On doin,n' so we i'ound that one man had iuiidverlenlly been left on lioard, and we therefore took liim oil'. Having' a^ain left tlie vessel, 1 ordered my men to pull round to the ]ilaee where the launch was resting' on its oars. It seemed to me, now that time had been given for calnu'r rellection, that it was wrong' and foolish to abandon the shij) in such a fashion, for if she were left with no one to protect her, the great probability would ije that slie would be plundered by the natives before we could return to her. I stated to Captain Carringtou that 1 did not think it right to abandon tlie sld]); but in reply he merely said, "Why not ?" and as he would offer no practical suggestion, T decided to remain with the lif'el.)oat near tlie yacht, Carringtou in tlie meantime making off in the launch for the settlement in Janu-stown harbour, witli instructicnis to send idl the assistance possible with the utmost speed. Never shall T forget that terrilde niglit of anxiety and discomfort. Tlie rain continued to pour down ui)ou us with pitiless fury, and the darkness sdemed must intense. Eagerly I watched and waited for daybreak that 1 might learn for a certainty the fate of the yaclit. AVhen daylight apjjcared we found that she was ashore on the barrier-reef surrounding the island, lying right over on her bilge, and evidently doomed to utter destruction. To my unutterable sorrow 1 at once recognised that the poor Xyanza had sailed her last, and that all that was prac- ticable now was to (mdeavour to rescue as much property as we could. It was impossible to get alongside her in the boat, for the sea was breaking heavily over her on tlie weather side, and the water was too shallow and the swell too strong on the lee siili' to render it safe to approach her. We therefore rowed some considerable distance along tlie reef in the hope of linding a passage by which we could ■ ^ 3 OI'ERATION.S OX THK -WllKCK. 4i; iKiliced that left l)m-iiiii,L!,-, 1 ddiiiL!,' so we et't on l)oav(l, 'ft the vessel, :(} where tlic me, now that it was wrong on, for if slie it probability latives before irrington that ut in reply he ■r no practical boat near the in the lannch h instructions ntninst speed, anxiety and u[)on us with ;nse. Eagerly I'ht learn for a was ash(n'e on riglit over on struction. To that tlie poor liat was prac- nuch property ide lier in the 2V her on the and the swell I approach hov, mco along tlie hicli we could enter intu tlie lagoon. Our scarcli, liowever, was unsuccess- ful, and accordin<>ly 1 returned to the ya(;lit. \'>\ this time a few natives liad l)egun to colh^ct ou the island adjacent to the wreck, antl after a good deal of gesticulation we imhiced one of them to swim off to ns. AVhilst searcliing Un- a passage into the lagoon we liad seen a large sliark, but in spite of tliis two of my nu'u, ISurrowes and Owens, very pluckily volunteered to swim to tlie yaclit, wliitdi tliey succeeded safely in boarding. Tlie native then piloted us inside the reef through a long and intricate passage, and after about a couple of hours we ibund ourselves three- quarters of a mile ov so away from the ship, willi nothing but shallow water between ns. AVe waded olT to her and clambered on l)oard, where we found that liurrowes and Owens had made a magnilicent use of their time in putting together the most valuable things. I'.y this time a crowd of natives had collected round the yacht in canoes, amongst them being a white man and a native missionary. These two came on board to assist ns, and through them I made arrangements with the natives to carry the articles off and stow them temporarily in their canoes. Shortly before noon the launch returned, bringing us the news that they had found a Government transport in the har- bour, from whom wo were about to receive the assistance we so much needed. Two hours later a steam-launch and three large boats belonging to the Spanish authorities arrived, and into these we transferred the things which had already been placed in the natives' canoes. We found, however, that many of them had been stolen and taken away. After three hours' more hard work we left the scene of the wreck for the night, I^I'Lellan volunteering to remain on board as caretaker. The Spanish steam-launch towed all the boats to the set- tlement, a distance of about eight miles, by a narrow and intricate passage inside the reef. At 8 p.m. we arrived on board the Spanish transport ^lanila, where we were most 3 H : i^ ■ '■ 1 ■ 1 : 'I' ■ .: 1 ^ ; 1 ' . ' 'i M' 1: I (i '' i >y I i. ^' .1 : :^ >■:.!. iS ^ ■ 1 r fe « 1 i , 1 n 1 •'^' III 42G A MISKUABLK SETTLEMENT. kiiully ami hospitably received by licr ciiiniiiaiuler, Civptain ])iiuas Ue.L'aliulo y Vosson, his wife, and ollicers. Tlio formcn' ^t^ave up their rooms to us, and did ovorythiii,!,' in their power to make us comfortable. The ^Manila liad formerly been a merchant-ship, but was now oOicered and manned by the Spanish navy, carrying two guns, and Hying the pennant of u war-vessel. The island was tlieii in a state of siege and under martial law, owing to an outbreak which had occurred a month before, in which the natives had treacherously murdered an ollicer and thirty-two soldiers, whose Ijodic'J tliey had mutilated in a revolting manner. Only three years 1)efore this they had killed the Ciovernor and all the olUcials in like manner, the fact being that the Spanish Government did not kee[) a siillicient force on tlie island to hold the natives in control. The ^Manila was then awaithig reinforce- ments from the l'Iulip])ines, liut it was not expected that they could arrive before two months weu' o\er. The only troops on the island were 140 Manilla soldiers, with European olllcers in the settlement, and small garrisons in tw(j forts on other parts of the island. Tlie settlement itself was a miserable place, consisting of the Governor's residence, a large but roughly fniished wood- en house, a small fort, a hospital, cafe, about a dozen rude shanties, and the military barracks. These latter, as well as tlie hospital, were simply constructed of corrugated iron. The name of the settlement was Santiago de la Ascencion. There was a small temporary church in the place served by a couple of Franciscan Fathers. Before I left Fonapi, T had the opportunity of seeing a little actual warfare; for on September 1, two Spanish cruisers, the Yelasco and Ulloa, both modern vessels power- fully armed, arrived from ^Manilla, and on the Glh of the same month the s.s. Salvadora came into the port bringing 500 troops. On the 12 til these troops commenced to march overland (Icr, Captiiiu T\\V. fdnULT tlieir ])nWGr iicrly been a imed by the ■ pennant of (if sieu,(.! and had occurred t reach crously wlios(^ l)C(lie-> y three years 11 the otlicials h (lovernnient 1 to hold the ting- reinforee- cted that they .'he only troops ,vith European IS in tw(j torts le, consistin,^' of finished wood- t a dozen rude latter, as well corrugated iron. e la Ascencion. place served by .mity of seeing 1, two Spanish , vessels power- the Glh of the le port bringing march overland T.OMr.AItDMENT OK VI I, LACKS. 427 to Port :\Ietalinnen, and on the following day llic sliips of war proceeded by sea to tlie same place. I'.y the kiiulness and courtesy of tlie captain of the Ulloa, I was i.ermitted to accompany that vessel as his guest. On reaching the entrance to the harbour, the ships cleared for action ; and as tliey steamed slowly in, they opened a heavy lii'e willi tlieir machine-guns on all ihc liouses which they passed. There were, however, no sigiis of any natives visible, though doubt- less they were lying liiddeii in the neighbourliood. In the Siui/idgo ik III .■hicihioii, evt'ning the electric search-lights were turned on, and the villages were again bombarded. The tiring recommenced next mornin", and under cover of the guns, six boats were sen* ashore to destroy the houses. The landing-party met with no opposition, nor did they see any natives. They burned down thirty -live houses, includ- ing the king's, and brought oil' his canoe, which was a veiy handsome and fine one. Next morning landing-parties were again sent ashore to complete the demolition of the villages. "Whilst they were thus engaged, some shots were fired at them from the thick bush, upon which the I'lloa immediately opened fire with her HotcJdiiss guns on the spot whence the smoke was seen, i;'' 5 /- . i 428 SLKJIIJH OF THE SI'AMSIl COMMANDHIt. 11 I < I II II f"( 1111(1 tlio liiiats I'etui'iied iimiicduiLi'ly to tlw.; sliip, Itrin^niu!^ with tliciu llic liuuliiig-pfU'ty. In the iit'tornooii ii iiui.sseii,g(.'r arrivutl I'lum Lin; .st;ttk'ment, biiny the priest wlio had accom])anicd the expedition. On September 10, the N'elasc" auu Ulloa proceeded to Tort Oa, esc )rting tiie troo]ishlps ^fanila and ^Vntonio IMunoz. It was found on arriving that tlic natives had erected a strong stone breastwork m, tlie li(\ach, and tliat they hail ])ut tiie church and mission-house in a state of defence. AVhilst the troops were iK'ing landed, wading through the water up to their waists, and wliilst tliey were gallantly carrying the l)rcastwork aL tlu- ]ioiut of th^ liayonet, the ships ojiened fire on the churcli and mission-house, and in a marvellously short space of time these two liuildings were nothing Imt a shai)eless heap of ruins. After m;d cause of which was to be traced to the American missionaries, who invariably conducted themselves in a manner hostile to the Spanish, and made every exertion to stir up discontent against the authorities amongst the natives, over whom they had acquired great inlhience. The Spanish, on the other hand, had treated the natives through- out with the greatest forbearance and indulgence, and even ( 1 k 4oO MORAL RESPONSIBILITY OF MISSIONARIES. r' i H when they had killed the Governor and all the olllcials with- out the slightest shadow of excuse, they had been freely par- doned l)y the special request of the Queen llegent of Spain. Xo taxes had ever been imposed liy the Spanish Govern- ment u])i)n the natives, nor had their customary manners and habits been in any way interfered with by them. The reason of the trouble whicli had resulted in the engagement at Oa was traced to the following origin. A detachment of troops had been .sent to garrison a small fort there, and, as was natural and proper, a small Catholic cliapel had been ordered to be erected for their benetit. The L'rotestant mis- sionary had thereupon remonstrated warmly with the Gover- nor, who liad in reply informed liiiu ]ilainly lliat llie chapel was intended solely fur thi' use of the troops ; that no inter- ference with the Protestants was intended ; and tliat, seeing that tlie Catholic faith was the state religion of Spain, it was only right and proper tliat this chapel sliould be built. The missionary then left him with tlie warning that it wo'ild not be long before he had cause to repent his decision : and only a few days afterwards an ollicer and thirty-two men were attacked and murdered whilst they were employed in road -making'' and were quite unarmed. The oHicer was killed by the missionary's own piivate secretary, as was proved by the unimpeachable evidence of several eyewit- neisses. The man, though taken prisoner, escapi'd execution, which 1 could not helj) feeling was ill-judgt'd k'uiency on tlie part of the Spanish autJKn-ities. Tlie head of the ]\Ii.ssion afterwards admitted to the (!ovevnor that they had been informed of the intended massacre twenty-four hours prior to its taking jilace. Yet knowing this, tliey had abstained from warning the authorities, which, had they done, the massacre wouhl 1 e ])wn averted. After this it can scarcely be considered too much to say Miat the American Protestant niissionai'ic: were niondly re- sponsi])le for all tlie deaths that had occurred. ib^.: lPJES. ollicials with- eii freely par- ,fent of Spain, nish (loveru- lary manners y them. Tlie e engagement -letaehment of lliere, and, as ]iel liad been rotcslant mis- it li the CJover- laL the eliapel that no inter- nd that, seeing )n of Spain, it .liould l)e built. g tliat it would s decision : and thirty-two men ■re employed in riie ollicer was jretary, as wns several eyewit- ai)ed execution, :,ed leniency on e lu'ad nf the inor tliat they ere twenty-four wing this, they les, which, had averted. After ich to say Miat ire morally re- red. I:* '( • fmmmmmmmr Mil li !lif il^ 431 CHAPTER XLII. THE END OF THE NYANZA LOSS OF MY COLLECTION' OF CURIO- SITIES DISHONESTY AND Ai:HEST OF JOAQUIM IJECOVEUY OF MANY STOLEN ARTICLES JOAQUIM's SENTENCE— SALE BY AUCTION DISAPPOINTING RESULT COXDUCT OP THE OFFICERS AXD CREW — COURT OF INQUIRY AT HONG KONG — VERDICT — COXCLUSIOX, 15UT tlie account of this intestine disturbiuiee in the island lias carried nie away from my poor old yacht, and has made me anticipate at least a couple of months. To return to Wednesday, July 30, the day following the strandin;^ of the vessel. As soon as day had dawned we started in the Manila's steam-launch, towing a gun-cutter, and our lifeboat, filled with armed crews. Having reached the yacht at CliO A.^r., we found her lying in much the same position as we had left her, and around her were collected a large number of natives on tlie reef. Upon this the cutter, having anchored about 1000 yards from tlie yacht, opened tire with shrapnel- shell, dispersing them effectually and with great rapidity. Our own men and those from the ^Manila then landed and waded out to the yacht. The water in places came up to their waists, but otherwise the passage was easy. AW' met several natives who received us in a friendly manner, probably owing to the fact that we had with us a force of about forty armed .sailors. Working very hard all through the day, we managed to save a considerable quantity of stores and miscellaneous I, f /' 432 LOSS OF COLLECTION OF CURIOS. !»? m f' ; ! pfi efiects, most, however, of which were .saturated witli water whilst l)eing brought off the yacht. When we departed at night we left ou board a rortiiguese named Joaqnini, together with his brother, providing them with revolvers and ammuni- tion to guard her against the depredations of the natives. Xext day the steam-launch was found t(j have broken down, and I therefore chartered a small schooner which was lying in tlie harbour. In this we started at 9 a.m., accoui- panied by an officer and fifteen armed men from tlie ^Manila. AVe were obliged to go outside the reef, and when we rounded the point we found a strong head-wind blowing and the sea breaking heavily over tlie '^ icht. Under tliese circumstances it was impossible to get near the vessel ; and we therefore returned and auchored in the harbour, awaiting an oppor- tunity of going inside the reef. Next day, Friday, August 1, was a very wet morning, l)ut I started in the lifeboat at 7 a.>[. and picked u]) tlie schooner, which had already sailed on her way down to the yacht. On reaching the latter at about half-past eight we at once went on board, where we found that untold damage had been done during the previous day and the intervening night by the na- tives, who had plundered the ship of everything which they couhl manage to carry away. The vessel was simply a shell, completely gutted, for what the natives had been unab^^. to take off they had wantonly sniaslied to pieces. The bulkheads were torn down, the cabin flooring pulled up, and in short the whole place was a miserable wreck. All my boxes of curios had lieen opened ami their contents thrown away; .so that the collection, whicli had taken me three years to gather together, and which had cost me an infinity of time, trouble, and money, had been cruelly and ruthlessly scat- tered to the winds. The irreparable loss of this collection cost me, I think, more sorrow and disappointment than even the loss of the yacht itself, -loacjuim and his brother were still on board, and favoured us with glowing and highly RECOVERY OF STOLEN ARTICLES. A '■> •-> with water doparted at im, together ud ammuni- natives. lave broken r which was A.M., accoiu- the Manihi. 11 we rounded ; and tlie sea circumstances [ we therefore mg an oppor- luoruing, Init ptliescliooner, the yacht. On > at once went had been done iglit by the na- ing whicli they , simply a shell, been unab^" to The bulkheads p, and in short .11 my boxes of thrown away ; I three years to intinity of tune, ruthlessly scat- £ this collection pointment than and his brother iwing and highly coloured descriptions of their gallant but unsuccessful at- tempts to restrain the natives from plunder. From information which we received next day our suspi- cions were aroused against their honesty and integvity, and we had occasion to believe tliat instead of protecting the property in charge of wliieli he liad liei'U ])laced, Joanuim hfid been engaged, together with the natives, in stealing as nmch as he could and sending it on sliore to his house. On receiving this intelligence we laid our information before the Governor, who ordered a party to proceed to Joarpiim's house in the course of the night and to search it through and through. I'naware of these proceedings and quite ignorant of our suspicions concerning him, .Toaquim came on Ijoard the Manila at one o'clock in ilie afternoon and commenced swaggering loudly al)out his exploits of the day l)efore. He was consideralily astonislu'd when he found himself arrested and placed in irons. At 4 A.M. next morning, before it was daylight, 1 started with the gun- cutter and a party of soldiers to search Joarpum's house. We were accomijanicd by the mate, Mr (leorge, and the crew of the lifeboat, all fully armed. We arrived whilst all the inmates were aslceji and to(jk them completely by surprise. The whole all'air was well planned au'i the arrangements successfully carried out. Sentries were posted round the houses so as to intercept any who attempted to escape, and the rest of the party tlien forcibly entered and commenced a strict search, which resulted in a grand haul. Underneath the flooring of the room in Joaquini's house were several cases of wine and the kedge-anchor, whilst the outhouses were lilled with sails, ropes, canvas, the berthon boat, and a great many other articles, all belonging to the yacht. jNIy ten-bore ritlo was found buried beneatli some earth. Twenty houses were searched altogether, the inmates being ordered to open all their boxes and every cupboard and receptacle that was locked ; and if any hesitation was 31 434 THE NYANZA SOLD. 'I ' >. shown, tlie places wove quickly and imcercmoniously forced open by violence. At 9 am. we returned to the ^Manila, hringinc;; with us a L;oodly spoil, totfcther with one of Joaquiin's relatives as prisoner. Joa(piini himself was sent ashore to the Governor, and brought back soon after with the Governor's orders that lie w'as to be kept in irons on board, but that every facility should be ])eruiitted him to commu- nicate with his family and friends in order that as much as possible might be recovered of that wliich still was missing. Joaquim was further informeil that his sentence was that he should be sent to ^lanilla for twelve years' penal servitude, providing tluii all tlie property which he had stolen was forthwith returned to us ; Init that if it was not foilhcoming after a reasonable time, he would be taken ashore and shot. At his request f wrote a letter to the native missionary, asking him to render him all the necessary assistance in his power; and the result was that tliat same evening another large boat-lf)ad of things was brought oil' to us. The following day a little more of our property was re- stored, but the things were not of any great value, consisting principally of bulklieads and fittings. After consulting the Governor I determined, in the interests of the underwriters, to put up the yacht and most of its belongings to auction, and the next tliree days were occupied in drawing up cata- logues and making other arrangements for the sale. This took place on Thursday, August 7, at '■) t'.M., the various articles l)eing arranged on ort will be found in the Aiipendix. it the Court ;lf — namely, of one man. which James ^ton sailing- ;nown, being on a voyage tlie Caroline register, and mposite-built M|uadron. ears Hiat the seaworthy, light easterly L'ienced. < hi ed, by obser- ;ter, and the 13 lob Oo 111., of the island from the east 3red till mid- 3re is nothing ssel struck on eventually be- has no means lip, and must k in charge of low where the THE VERDICT. -437 ship was wii.li reference to the reef, as he says he never saw the chart, and did not ask to see it. " Soon after she struck, the captain came on deck. The sails were clewed, and the boats got out, but nothing fur- ther was done to save the ship. " The Court, having regard to the circumstances before it are of opinion that the master was in error, in that he did not exert himself to verify the i)0sitiun of the ship on the afternoon of the 2Sth ; further, that he did not remain more constantly on deck on the night of the 28tli, before the ship struck. " Jnirther, we are of opinion that steps should have been taken, either by letting go an anchor, or by any other means, to prevent the ship driving farther on the reef ; and the Court are unalile t(j agree with the master in his opinion that this would have been of no avail; on the contrary, they think that it might have been the sav- ing of the ship. " Also, we are of opinion that, after obtaining help, some attempt should have been made to get the vessel otl'. AVe recognise that there existed dilliculties, and are not pre- pared to say that these could have been overcome ; still, we think that an attempt should have been made. " These errors of the master we do not consider amount to wrongful acts or defaults, and we therefore do not deal with his certificate; l-ut we think it \vill be well for him to avoid like errors in future. "The Court must express the opinion that the services of the first mate, Itobert George, do not appear to have been of much use in the navigation of the ship ; and that, vf the cross-bearings taken by him during the afternoon had been made use of, it is possible that it might have averted the disaster." On one poiut, at least, besides that at which I have already hinted, I find myself compelled to dissent from '.1 ill M f I i^{}: !! I[^ ,1 irrmil I I 438 CONCLUSION, tlic Couil. ]\Ir deori-t', till! first niiiU', was in my (iiiiiiii)ii an able and jiainstakini;' naviiialor, and but for liini I niiglit liav(! fared v\rn worse than 1 diil. Before I conflude tlii.s tale of events, I nuist take the opportunity of i)uttiu;4' on record the unbounded kindness, sympathy, and assistance wliicli we received from tlie (iov- ernor at I'onapi, the captain and olhcers of tlie Manila, and from all the S[)anish with whom we came in contact. Xor must I fi)r<>et my yacht agents, Messrs Cox iV: King, of r» Sullblk Street, London, who had ilischurged with unwavering fidelity and caie all the numerous commissions Ihat 1 gave them during my three years' absence from England. As s(jou as the Court of Intpiiiy was finished, there was nothing further to detain us abroad, and we returned to England via ^larseilles in the splendid steamer Caledonien belonging to the Messageries ]\Iaritimes Company. -!! my (ipnnon him I might ist take the id kindness, )m the (lov- tlie Manila, in ciinlacl. 'ox i.^. King, largeil witli commissions )sence from (1, there was returned to ; Caledonien anv. A i» r i: N 1) I X. I. LIST OF AINU DIVINITIES IN' OlJDEIl OV PIIECEDENCE. 1. .][„.^hir! KamKniiuu, K«lan Kara Kauini. Wovsliipped as chief of 111! I<:ainui, aispcnser of power to lower order of -ods, anied. u t " 'y WaH-a-ush KamiiL The word "AN akka-ush" means watery, and'is applied to the g.^ddesses who ],rcsid(. over all spring.s, ponds, lakes, rivers, and waterfalls. AVilh tlu.m is associated another god- dess called "Chiwash-ekot-mat," or "The female possessor of the pL;;;s where fresh and salt waters mingle "-viz., the mouths of rivers- it is she who admits the salmon into and out of them. These goddesses are worshipped hecause they heiielit mankind m allowing lish to ascend and descend. _ G ]lrn-»n Kama!. These are gods of the sea, two m numhei, one uood and the other evil. They arc hrothers, and then' names ¥ i Si-— wCSSSSI-lErU'T." r ■ • u ' I I •■ 440 AlM'KXDrX. arc " 81ii-;i(:!iii " iind " Mo-acliii. ' Tlic foi'incr, who is tlic cMci', is cvt'i' n'slk'ss mid pciscciiting his brotlior; lie is tln' oi'ij,diiati)i' "f stoi'iiiH, and direct caiisc of .sliipwi'ccks, and deaths liy (howiiiui^' : he, is liuieil feared, hut llever Worsiiilipeih " Mn-aelia " is the god of line weiither, and is woi'shijiped at scasi(h^ plaeus. 7. Kliii-iDt Kttniui Tiiis term is appHed to hoars, which are Avorshijjped, lirst, on account of their ]L,'rcatncss ; and secondly, on account of their usefulness, as they furnish 1)oth fooil and clotliini;- to tlic Ainus. Foxes, nudes, and certain other animals iire desiLj- nated Kaniui, hut arc not worshiiipod. f<. S((r<(/,- Kniiuii. The ^dd or demon wlio presi(h's over all acciilents liotli on fresh water and on land. lie is never wor- shipped, though greatly feared. *,). X/'fiir h'liiiiiii OH'/ Tl'rw Kaiiiui. Satan and evil sjiiiits. Never worshipped, only feared. ^lany othi-r ohjects are termed Kamui, though not necessarily regarded as sacred, tlui wonl heing used nieicly as a title of great respect. AVIu'ii used alone without any prefix, it generally signi- iies the Creator ami (Jovernor of the world, or hears. AX AINU LEGEND OF A FAMINE. 1. There was a woman who was ever sitting hy the window and dning some himl of needlework or other. L'. Ill the window^ of tin; house there was a large cup lilicd to the hrim with wine upon wliich lloated a ceremonial nioiistache- lifter.-' ;*). The ceremonial moustache-lifter was dancing aliout on the top of the wine-cup. ^ The cast window nf the hut. Tliis is tlio sacred whidow, as the Aiiiiis always wor^ihip towards the East, and in their libations three drops of wine are tln'own towards it. Outside tliis window then' are always clusters of whittled wilhnv-.sticks called "inao," which are jilaced tliere as an ofleriiis,' to the gods. - Cerenionial nioustache-liftcis are peculiarly made, and are u.sed forreligiou- purposes. Some have bears and deer carved upon tlicni, and are employed when thanks are made to the gods. The one in the legend had shavings lelt on it ; it is especially used when supjilications are made foi- any jiarticular object. A conmion moustache-lifter, without carving, is used on general occasions. Their piir|io.-!e is, lirst, to keep the moustache out of the wine ; and .secondly, to oli'er di'ops of diink to the gods. Three drops are given to the lire- goddess, three thrown towards the cast window, three towari]s the north-east corner of the hut, where the Aiim ti-easures are kept, and then three ilrojv-c must be ottered to any special god for whose bcuclit the libations are offered or to whom tlie Ainu are paying worship. the cMtT, is )ii;4iniit()i' i>t' y druwiiiiij,' : is tlic ,i,'oke(l at the goddesses, they saw them pluck out- two hairs from a deer ; 10. .Vnd, as it were, hlow them m'er tli(^ tops of tlic mountains. Then ap[)eared two herds of deer, .ski]ipiug upon tlic mountain- tops, one of hueks and the other of thjes. 17. Then they plucked out two scales from a tish, and, as it were, blew them over the rivers; and the heds of the rivers were so crowded with fish that they scraped upon the stones, and the i>vc lines wcio suiij< tn the l!ov. J. Butchclcir uf Jlakuiladi, to whniu I iim iiiilclituil fi>r the jireoeiliiv.,' list of divinities and legends, by an aged Ainu wIimhi lie iiail been endeavouring to tunvince of tlie futility of otlbriiig wine and whittieil jiieccs of wood to God. The old man's oliject in singing him this tradition was to iuipress on hi?^ mind the fact tliat, notwith- standing all he had said, the gods were at the time of the famine [ileascd with these (.ll'ei'ings, and are still delighted wlien the devout worshipiier sets them before them. II I I i iij ;e '■ is that Ilencc it is DISTANCES DIRECT, AND DURATION OF PASSAG7S. 443 11. (1 raising its found it to and brought there was a the .shores of food). he gods. ! were, pleased DESCll PTION OF THE NYANZA. The ^'yanza was a two ,:.asted composite schooner-yaeht of 218 tons Y.m". and 1:51.40 ■'■;c register, built by Messrs Steele iV: Co. on tlie Clyde in 18G7. Her dimensions were— Length 110 feet, beam 21 feet 5 inches, and depth moulded 1 1 feet 8 inches. Slie was niuisually strongly and substantially budt ; was ri'v-ed as a fore-and-aft schooner, and carried a very large spread of canvas. ■ i i • She was originally built for Lord Wilton, and had carried ins flig as Yice-Commo(lore of the lloyal Yacht Si^uadron. ]f llak(iila(li, tn [ loj,'eu(ls, Ijy iiii f tlio futility (if niiui's (ibjcet in ;t tliiif, nolwilh- liiiu [ileiiscd witli lu]]lior t^elii tlicm IIL DISTANCES DIRECT, AND DURATION OF I'ASSACES. Plymouth to Ponta Delgarda, St :\Iicliaels Poiita Delgarda to Palma, Canaries Palina to St Yincent, Cape de Ycrde Islands St Yincent to Fernando Noronlia Fernando Noronha to Trinidad . Trinidad to Rio de Janeiro Rio de Janeiro to ]Monte Yideij . Monte Yideo to ryramid Bay, Nuevo tiult Pyramid Bay to Stanley, Falklauds Stanley to Juan Fernando/, rid Magellan' Straits and Smyth's Channel . Juan Fernande/ to Mollendo MoUendo to Callao Callao to Easter Islaml . Easter Island to Fatou-hiva, Marquesas Nuka-hiva, Maniuesas, to Tahiti Tahiti to Tutuila, Samoa Apia, Samoa, to Tongatahu Tongatabu to Suva, I'iji . Milos. Days. Ilmirs. 1:200 17 2o;,- (i(iO 4 lei 810 5 3.L 1 3:i0 1.-) 19}^ 1017 1 m 7U2 5 () 104.") 8 20 (152 h- ( H 5!)G (i V.WO 82 104.') !) 7 484 3 4 201") 21 4 l!)0.j 13 7(i3 1 2 i;30l) 8 4h 562 4 1!) 425 4 7 444 APPENDIX. ^ ! .';;' i! •' !i '! I Suva to Xoninea, New Cak'doiiia Nouniua to EvromaiiL;'o, New Ik-brides . Espiritu Santo, New Helirides, to Vaiuia Lava, lianks Islands .... Vanuu Lava to S.nita Cruz Santa Cir.z in Iloiidlulu, via Gilberts . Houiiliilu to San Francisco San L'ranc'isco to Es(^ninialt, P).C'. Esquimau to Laliaina, Sandwirli I.-lands Laliaiiia to Port San Luis d'A]ira, Marianas Port San Lnis d'Apra to Port Llnvd. ]]iinii Islands. . . . ' . P(irt Lloyd to Kobe Kobe to Petropaulovski . Petropanlovski to L'.;L;iep, Mar.-iiall Islands Legiep to Jaluit, ^fa. shall Islamls SUMMARY OF VOYAGE. Sailed from Plymoutli. .hily :il, 1S87. AV recked f,n I'onapi, Caroline L-lands, July 2!>, 1800. Number of nnles sailed, 4:2,784. Number of davs at .«ea, 4n. Averaj^e run jer day, 104.0f) knots. . Thhke P>i:st Kins. Feb. 10, 1880, lat. IV.) 11' N., b>n-. 14ii :V.y W. ; run -Ilo miles Sept. 30, IcvSM, lat. i4 11' S., Iou^l,'. I(i2 '.il' W. ; run •2'j2 mile^ June 11, 180(1, lat. 4s n' N., Ion- IW 40' E. ; run 2.")2 miles. Mil.'s. Days. Hours 760 4 387 4 4 185 2 / 225 5 .~> 201 Kt 31 5 2100 18 17.V 7(i5 10 12.V 2370 30 12.V 3403 28 1 850 10 16 (i2tj 11 2lh 168!) 14 l!»i 2(i(;i .).) Ki.V 200 6 8.V IV. Ill ^:\lli LIST OF OPIGINAL CHEW ON LEAVING ENGLAND. Donald Cameron, sailiu;4-niaster Alfred Carter, chief mate Donald Ni(hiil>(in, second mate .Limes AVilson, carpenter John Wyllie, saihmiker Andrew Patterson, A.L. Uiscliai'tjed at Stanley, Falklands. Calhui. Kiilie. San Prancisco. Days. Hours. ■1 2 4 -I i) -2 31 5 18 17.V 10 12.V ;3i) m 28 10 16 11 2U 14 l!»i 22 Ki.V G 8.',- 270 miles. 252 niik's. >,j2 luilcs. ENC.LAND. Fiilklands. ICISCO. T' LIST OF CHEW AT DATE OF SHIPWRECK. 445 John Maclean, A.B. . Donald Mactlonald, A.B. Laudilin Black, A.B. Neil Kelly, A.B. James Pettit, A.B. . Hector Macmillan, A.B. James Millar, A.B. . John M'Callum, A.B. Duncan Macdonald, ship's cook William Ciowe, chief steward Arthur Lusher, second steward Disiilmrged at San Francisco. Kobe. Stanley, Falklands. Noumea, New Caledonia. Kobe. San Francisco. Tahiti. Callao. LIST OF CREW AT DATE OF SHIPWRECK. John Carrington, sailing-master Rcjlievt George, chief mate John Erickson, second male . Joseph Shepherd, carpenter . Arthur Williams, sailmaker . Charles Coley, signal-uan Sanniel Burnnves, A.B. George Owens, A.I>. Alfred .Morrison, A.B. John Jacoljson, A.B. . Victor Johansson, A.15. Carl Christiansen, xV.B. Robert M'Lellan, A. 15. E. Anty, A.B. . Sam Sing, saloon c^iok. Ah Wong, ship's cook . Julian Rapard/.ig, chief steward Yebisu Yasugiro, second steward llenrv Smith, messroom steward Jciinod at San Francisco. II Kobe. Es(juimalt, B.C. Kobe. San Francisco. Kobe. Tahiti. Kolie. San Francisco. LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN TEMPORARILY ON BOARD. Robert Ilrnt, sailing-master CJeorge Holland, sailing-nuister John Lawless, chief mate . JuiiK'il at ; Stanley, VAk- ■ ( land Islands . Honolulu . Callao . Discliarged at Honolulu. San Francisco. n / 446 APPENDIX. ifil / Charles Heiuler?on, chief mate John Edholni, carpenter Edwaid Pa;-,'e, boatswain Pedro Tutnian, hoatswain . Charles Schroder, A.V>. William -Moore, A.15. George Reed, A.B. . James Stndart, A.B. William M'Uou.nal, A.B. . John M'Fee, A.B. . Hermann HdH'man, saloon cook Henry ^lurdoch, second saloon cool Kum Sungya, saloon cook . Cliarles Sanders, .ship's cook Kamino Motasabru, ship's cook Frank llowe, second steward Frank Keany, second steward Hignchi Xawataro, second steward Jolin ]\l'Convilie, l)oy Henry Palmer, Loy . Jdiiuil at San Francisci j Stanley, Falk- / land I.slands San Francisco C'allao . Tongatalm Honolulu Kobe San Francisco Kobe Callao . San Francisco Discliar^'cd at San Francisco ]\olie. .luan Fernandez. San Fiancisco, Lahaiiia. ]"]s(juinialt. Tahiti. Honolulu. Kobi', San Francisco. Ivobe. San Francisco. f Deserted at San I, Francisco. REPORT OF COURT OF INQUIRY. 447 cliarged at Fiaiiciscd. 11 FiTiiamlo/. 1 Fianciricn. iiiiia. [uinialt. lili. iidlulu. II Fraueisco. iVie. t 11 Francisco. HTtcil at San Francisco. V. REPORT OF COUIIT 01'^ IN(iUIRV, ukld at IIonu ■ Kong, XOVEMREII 2, 18!)0, TO LviJUlUE IXTO THE LoSS OF THE SCHOONER- Yacht Nyanza. A ^lariuo Court was lielil at the Harbour Office thi.s morning, to inquire into the loss of the r>riti.sli yacht Xyan/.a, which was Avrocked olY Tonapi on the -JOth of July hist. Captain Itunisey, K.N., harbour-master, presided, and tlie other members of tlie Court were : Commaiukn- Stevens, Iv.X., H.M.S. Victor Em- manuel ; Captain W. 11. Wotton, s.s. Phra Xang- ; Captain J. ^looney, s.s. lliversdale ; and Cajttaiu Seabury, s.s. CHuna. :\Ir ilastings (of ]\[essrs Wotton & Deacon's office;) appeared on behalf of Captain Dewar. Captain Carringtou asked the President if there was any objection to ]\Ir Duncan ap[tearing on his behalf. I'he President a ced who Ur Duncan was. [Mr Cliesney Duncan said he was secretary to the P>ritish ^ifercantile IMarine Oilicers' Association of Hong-Kong, which was affiliated with the Liverpool Association, of which Captain Carrington was a member, and as Captain Ciirrington was not in a position to emi)loy a solicitor, he luul asked him (Mr Duncan) to watch the case on his belialf. If Captain Carrington was to be put on his defence, he wf)uld ask foi' an adjournment to prepare his defence. He would submit that the Court could ..uc deal with Captain Carrington's certilicate, as he was not on the articles of the ship as muster. Tile President said it was imjjossible to say whether Captain Carrington would l)e put on liis defence until the evidence was heard."^ H(> was afraiil lie could not allow Mr Duncan to appear for him, but the captain's case might be safely left in tlie hands of tlie Court. JdiiK's C(tiiini/)ii/ Ih'icdf, owner of the Xyan/.a, said: The X van/a is registert'd in Glasgow. Tlie articles are lost. She had a crew of twenty-one ail told. We were bound for the island of Ponapi from Kusaie. We left Kusaie on "J 1st July. We sighted Toiiapi on the morning of the -iHth. Our position at noon was o7' X., 1.^8 '.:;' E. We had light variable wiiuls all div. At 10 r.M. I went below to bed, and was ii HIM, 448 APPENDIX. awakoiHMl at 1.10 a.m. by tlic slii[) strilciiiii,-. I wont on (l(;f;k ami 1(11111(1 slio was liair and liiiiluM-, and in about twenty minutes fell over on lier beam-ends. About twenty-live minutes after we lirst struek the boats were lowered. Captain Carriiii^ton proceeded to the Span.ish colony, aliout 10 miles distant, in the launch, takini;' most of the hands. I reuiaint>d with the chief olTicer and a l)oat's crew beside the ship all nii;ht. I noticed that all tlie lii^lits had been left buiniiijj^, and I went back and put tlieiii out. I found that a man had lieeii left on the ship, and I took him oil". Next day we \\('nt on biiard at diiylncalc, and siivi'd as mueli of the jn'operty as we could. About 2 I'.m. the launch returned, to^cthe;' witli four armed boats from tlie colons. I asked them to le.ive a ,t!,'uard at night, but they declined. Wo wore working at the sliip for about four days, leaving her each night and going to the colony. At night the natives cam(> off and plundered the ship. Eventually we went on board a Spanish transport. The ship was sold by auction as she lay, togetlier with soiik; of the effects we had been abUi to save. We wore taken to ^lanilla, and from there wo came to IIong-Kong, K.ratuiiird hi/ Mr //ast/'/ii/s. I was on a voyage round the world. I shipped the captain at San Francisco on I'Sth February 1.SS9. 1 siiip})ed him as sailing-master. I did not personally attend to navigation. Captain Carrington attended to it ex- clusivel}*. During my absence from the yacht in Japan I was told by my steward that tho captain had been giving large parties on board, and (luantities of my wine and stores had lieeii used. I left for ho-iu' for four moiitlis, leaving tlie yaelit at Kobe. At the ^larshiiil Islands the captiiin wished to leave the ship, as ho said his position was uneomfoitable, but ho after- wards agreeil to come on to Pona]ii. A\'heii I came on deck about two nnuutos after tho ship struck, I saw the captain aft on the port side. Ifo was fully dressed. T went in the lifeboat, and tho captain wont in tho launcii with the rest of the crew. After wo had jirocoeded for about lifteon minutes, I said I did not think it righf to abandon tho ship in this way. The captain said, "Why notV 1 said tla^ natives would come and plunder her. I then said I would remain l>y lier. rrovious to this I had returned to the ship and taken the man oil'. After this tho chief ollii'or was transl'eir"d I'lom tho launch, and came with me. Tiie ship struck about 1.', mile from the slioro. Observations for longitude were always taki'U about S a.m. and for latitude at noon. They wore taken by tho ca]itain and chief ollicor ; lattc^rly 1 did it myself as a matter of practice. 'J'ho position was never I I REPORT OF COURT OF INQUIRY. 449 lit on (lode She was Mit twenty twenty-live il. C;i[it)un it IG iiiilcK V beside the (1 been h'l't 'ound that a SText day we tlie jtioperty iii;('the:' witli 11 to Umvo a ■kin!:>; at tlie H'tiin,!;' to the [■(■d the sliip. . The ship of the effeets ilhi, and I'roui >■(! round the Sth February it personally led to it ex- Japan I was ^ivinp; larp;e ires had been the yacht at 1 to leave the but he af'ter- ■juiie on deck captain aft on 1 tlie lifeboat, ^t of the crew. , I said I did The captain I' and plunder ious to this I After tins the came witli nie. Observations for latitude at illicer ; latterly tion was never verified by observations in the afternoon or at nif^ht. There had been no current at noon on tlie 2.Slh, to the best of my recollection. From the time of lcaviiire lost. I was on the ship's register as master. I was put on originally in Tahiti. I was put on again at Kobe last i\lay. On the articles there was no master named since the last master left. On one sheet of articles my name was there as master. AVhen we left Fugland a man named Donald Cameron signed as master. Ho was aftc;rwards discharged, liobert Hunt was the next. He was tried by a naval court at Honolulu for drunken- ness, and was dismissed from the ship. As 1 had had a great deal of troulde with Captain Hunt, I told Captain Cariington I preferred to lie on the register as master myself I don't con- sider that in doing this I accepted responsibility for the navi- gation of the ship. I explained to Captain Carringtoii that it was merely formal, and that everything would be left to him. It is a very common practice at home. What I have stated as to the ship's position on the "iSth was the result of Captain Carrington's report to me. When I went below at ten that night there was a little rain. It was ftiirly clear when riot raining. I had no conversation with the captain as to what was to be done with the ship during the night. The captain gave instructions as to leaving the ship and as to the manning of the boats. 1 was not consulted with reference to leaving the ship. I said I would remain on tlu; shi[) till all others had embarked, but Captain Carrington said it was no use doing that. We all left at the same time. I don't know how a man came to bo left on board, but it was by mistake. I heard he had been below. [ did not reprove Captain Carrington for what I considered his misconduct in my absence from the ship. He never had an opportunity of giving any explanation. When I came on deck after the ship struck, the captain was perfectly sober. I have had a great deal of experience in yachting, but 1 have not gone in for navigation till recently. I know it is a general rule to verify sights by afternoon sights. I did speak to the captain about this not being done on board the yacht. To the best of my belief sights were never taken in the afternoon when an observation could be got in the morning. The explanation I have given about the currents was the result of reports to me by the captain. ' Jo/iii Carr/m/toii said : I hold a master's certificate ; I lost it 3 L i ) 450 APPENDIX. !fii I i! i ^ I- ' IM ri in tlio yac'lit. It was jifvanted in Liverpool in 187 k I shipped in till* Xyan/a in tiau Francisco as actinfjf suiling-niastcfr. From San Francisco wo went to the Sandwich Isl; nds, and from tliere to the Ladroncs and the 13onin Ishinds, and from tliere to Japan. Some time in June wo left to jl;'o to tlie Sot' Mi Seas. We had ,G,-()t to the Marshall groiip first, and from ,ucre to Kusaie. Tiience we sailed for Pohajii. I was in charf^-o of the ship when she was at sea. From Knsaie we had very liii;lit winds and vari;d)le currents to I'onapi. The currents were contrary most of the way. The ship was a fore-and-aft schooner with no steam-nowei-. The day previous to going a horo we had no current. During the afternoon wc had light airs. The position at i I'.M. would he al)out three miles from what it was at noon. I have lost all my papers, and I can't remciuher what was the position. I reported the position to Captain Dewar. The island had been in sight since daylight. I could not get bearings in the afternoon on account of rain. I did not take sights in the afternoon, as I depended on getting boarings later on. In the evening I was on deck till about 9.80 v.m. She had gone from two to three knots since six o'clock. We were sailing W. bv N. From noon till about live minute^ before midnight we had a fair wind. At 1I.;]0 I'.m. it was clear, with the exception that there were occasional small rain-squalls. We could see ]iortions of the island quite clearly. 1 could not get the two extremes of the island. The second mate was left in chargt; of the deck. He is not a certificated man. T lay down in my clothes, having told them to call me a little before midnight. I went on deck and satisfied myself that we were from eight to ten miles from land. I altered the course to W.X.W., which would have taken her well clear of the land. I intended to go round the north end of the island. I went below again immediately. I meant to be up and down all night. I left orders with the second officer that he was to tell the chief when he relieved him that he was to call mo when the highest part of the north end of the island was about S. by W. She was then going about three knots. I was in a light sleep when I felt her touch the ground about a quarter-past one. I ran on deck and found all sail set, and the vessel breast-on to the reef I inniiediiitely lowered down all the large sails, leaving the jib standing. She ploughed along the reef a little, and then fell over to starboard, 'i'he sea hail turned her almost completely round after she struck, and when she fell over she was heading to the southward. When I got on deck the breakers were about a ship's-length ahead, but she was set up int( the breakers before 1 left. 'I'liere were two fathoms of water amidships at that time. A cpiarter of an hour REPOIIT OF COURT OF INQUIRY. 451 I sliii)i)ed ■r. From •om there to Jiiiian. Wo liiul ) Knsaie. liip when viiuls and rarv most witli no liad no V position s at noon. was the riic island icanngs m ;lits in the 1. In the gone, from ing W. by ;ht wo had ■ption that ee ]iorti(ms extremes )f the deck. lies, having int on deck miles from have taken 1 the north I meant the second d him that 1 end of the about three the ground all sail set, ely lowered le ploughed i. The sea struck, and d. When I . ahead, but re were two V of an hour after that I found only about seven foot. Captain Dewar came on deck shortly after mo, and asked mo what I thought of it. I said I thought she was hard fast, and advised him to go below and dress and get his valuables together. In the meantime I got the boats ready. AMien all was ready, b(>iiig of opinion there was no ehance of getting her oil" I gave all hands orders to get into the boats. I shii)pod all Captain Uewar's money, plat , and jewellery in the first boat.^ I wont in tlu; launch to tlio l)ort of Tonapi about "J a.m. After getting some little distance from the ship, Captain Do war hailed me, and said he thought one of us ought to remain near the ship till morning. It was arrangc'd I should proceed to get assistance, and return as early as possible in the morning. This was arranged with Ca[)tain Dewar. I suppose he th( night it would be better for mo to go, as I can speak Spanish well. Captain Dewar knew I could speak Spanish. [ arrived at tlie port at V a.m., and gettiiig what assistance I could, returned to the ship in the after- noon. I got four boats and a stoam-launcli, with between twenty ami thirty men, from the transport ]\biiiila. I returned to the ship before them, having arranged for them to follow. The sliij) was a little further on the roof, and at low tide one could walk round her. The roof was a fiat one, and extended for about half a mile. I don't think the ship was making water the first day. The third day, after going ashore, I came to the conclusion that she was breaking up. She was making water badly. It was useless to make any attempt to got her off. When we abandoned her the keel was turned right oil', and the beams all bent. She was a composite-built ship, twt'iity-one years old. The hull was sold by auction about ton days after for 8120. Cross-examined by Mr llastlmjs. The course sot at noon on the iSth would take us within about four miles of the reef. I attem])ted sov(!ral times to take cross-bearings from about four o'clock till dark. I did not hoar the breakers when I came on deck at twelve o'clock. I am ]K)sitive of that. If I had heard them, 1 should not have gone below. I did not take my papers oft' the ship. I did not take a small black bag into the boat. I have a small i)ortmanteau with some clothes which I had packed up, as I was going to leave at Ponapi. I did not say to anybody in the boat that the bag contained my papers. There was difticulty in getting into the boats and clear of the ship. I don't think I was out of my reckoning at twelve o'clock in 1 'I'lii.s was not tlic case ; on the coiitraiy, (iljstiiules were iilaeed in the way of )/(// tiding so. 452 Al'l'HNDIX. li .' ! ::i ! i I '■ i I \r '] t m I: f M U i- i! T n n f ' i; M' i I tliiiikinf!; tlio land was oij^lit ov ten miles distant. I think tlm cuiTcnt carried her tlire(^ miles towards the reef, and that, with the mis])laceiiient of the reef on the chart, accounts in my oi)inion lor wliat hiqipeiied. 'I'he reef is placed too i'ar to west- ward on the chart. //// /lie I'rcsidciil. 'I'he yacht beloiifjjed lo the l!oyal Northern Yaclit ^(piadron. Siie was well I'ound in all respects. Alexander Ilnrroirrs, A.Ji., exdininnl hi/ Mr //astiiir/s, said: I came on watch at midni,t;-ht on the "JSth of July. I did not see the reef until we struck. I went in the lii'ehoat. 1 saw a leather ba<^ belonf;-inort. She did not strike with a sharp blow, but almost impercei)tibly. The captain then came on deck, lie lold me to put the boom over on the port side and clew up the mainsail. The orders were then given to lower REPOliT OF COUHT OF INQUlIiV. 453 I think tlio 1 that, witli iits ill my tar to \v(.'st- iil Xortliern uj!i, said : I (lid not SCO :. I Hiiw a tdld me to see till' bag 10 tiuu3 tho 5ee nor hear re were six k a (jTiarter 3r hear any Wheii she had cleared. )ats. There L hold a iirst er. I took the captain, ■nts variable, ir what they I'liiarked the IS prominent 8 P.M. The I lie watch at L'rs from the 1 the highest t he did not Sliortly after forward and man at tho could see tho :)uld see the le helm hard of answering with a sharp hen came on )ort side and veil to lower away the boats. I wont in tho stonm-lnnnch. There was no trouble in getting into the l)oats. Tiiere was a littlc! sea, a swell right abeam. 1 afterwards changed into Captain Hewar's boat. I )l)servatioiis were taken in the morning and at noon, as a rule. I suggested several times to the ca[ttain that siglits might be taken at sunrise and sunset, but he did not sfciu to care about that. Latterly we could not get our positions to agree at all. W(! had to do them all over again, and T was generally rigiit. Tliis 1 thouglit very strange, and I asked the captain if there was anytliing the matter with him, and he said he was worried and put about. Tiie captain always set the course. T never saw a chart all tlie time I was on tho ship. Tiie captain said it was different altogether on a yacht from a merchant-vessel, and he could not have me knocking about the saloon where tlu^ charts wore kept. The bearings I took on the 28th I put on the log-slate. I did not report them to the captain. The cai)tain was on deck. I took tiiem simply to put thein on the log-slate. 1 did not report to the captain that I had taken bearings. I can't account for the ship falling away to port instead of coming round to starboard when the helm was put hard over just before she struck. I had always boon on good 1erms with tho, cai)tain, and had always got on well with him. I am not on good terms with him now. The difference between us has to do with tho ship, but it has nothing to do with the loss of the .shii), or the circumstancos that led to the loss of the ship. The captain never consulted me about tho navigation of the ship. We did not mess together. Tho errors in the cap- tain's observations arose from careless working out. ^ I never asked the captain to let me see the chart. Captain Dewar brought the chart on deck on the morning of the 28tli, and showed tho roof. At six o'clock that evening 1 thought we were seven or eight miles from tho land. I did not know where the reef was, nor did I know tho ship's position with regard to^ it. At twelve o'clock I thought we were about seven miles off the land. I did not know lio\v far the reef extended off the land. Bu Mr llaMings. A few days before the wreck the captain gave mo a recommendation. By the. I'residcid. I was not satisfied with the recommenda- tion ; I thouglit "perfect seaman" too much. I did not think " splendid navigator " so extravagant. I think the captain had a ftiir opportunity of judging my capabilities as a navigator. It was not on account of this certificate that we fell out. Bij Cumuiamler >' ")•)' X., and long. 15.S' .'>',>' I!., which position i)laced her '.\2 miles !•]. i X". of tlu! island of Ponapi. During tlio afternoon of this day light airs from tho oast wore (>xperieneed, and a X.V. . course was steered till midniglit, wlien it was altered to V\ . X.W., but tliere is notliing to conlirm the position of tho -V.p at that time. About l.l!i A..ir. on the 2'.)th of July the vessel struck on the reef on tlio X.E. side of tlio island, and eventually became a total loss. The logs, charts, Sic, being lost, tho Court has no means of verifying the different positions of the ship, and must th(>refore be guided entirely by tho evidence. Tlie mate, a certificated officer, wai on deck in charge of the watch after midnight ; but he did not know where the shij) was with reference to tho reef, as he says ho never saw the chart, and did not ask to see it. Soon after she struck, the captain came on deck. The sails were clewed and the boats got out, but nothing further was done to save the ship. Tho Court, having regard to the circumstances before it, are of opinion that the master was in error, in that he did not exert himself .,0 verify the position of the ship on the afternoon of the ht to do it .-. If you fiiivi'il the ; findiiiu;; — licli -lames )U HailiiiLi'- beiiu lost nyago iroiu line Group, lid -J IS tons w(d bi-dong- t tlie vessel terly winds, the 28tli of iiado 1)V the t. (; 5(V N., •^■2 miles K. 10 east were night, when confirm the ruck on the ly became a no means of ust therefore )hargo of the the ship was iiw the chart, k. The sails furtlier was before it, are did not exert ternoon of the UEl'ORT OF COUllT OF INQL'HtV. 455 2.Sth ; fmlher, lliat he did not remain more coiistantly on deck on the night ol' tiie 2.Stli liefoi'e tlie siiip struck. Further, we are of o|)inion that steps should have been taken, either by letting go an anchor or by any otiier means, to prevent the ship (hiving farther on the reef; and the Court are unable to agree with the master in his opinion that this would liavo boon of no avail; on the contrary, they tliiidc that it might have lieeii the saving of the sliip. Also, we are of opinion that, after obtaining help, some at- tempt should have been made to get the vessel oil'. Wo rec- ognise that there existed difficulties, and are not prepared to say that these could have been overcome ; stilt, we think that an attempt should have been made. 'I']ies(! errors of the master we do not consider amount to wrongful acts or defaults, and wo therefore do not deal with his certificate; but we think it will be well for him to avoid like errors in future. The Court must express the opinion that tlie services of the first mate, Kobert George, do not appear to have been of much use in the navigation of the ship, and that if the cross-bearings taken by him during the afternoon had been made use of, it is P' - 'ible tliat it might have averted the disaster. 45G APPENDIX. [| VI. fi.; TABLE OF DAILY POSITIOX.S. ' ' IIMf 1! ISS7. 1SS7. July Aug. Lat. X. I. on-. W. ■Jl Loft Plymouth. 27 Ar ( •ived at St \inceut, I jlands. Lat. N. Loii;,'. \V. 2S Left St Viiiecnt. .).> 4t) 42' r, 10' 20 l.-» 10' 2,-. .-iO' •->:! 47.40 ti..-) .•?o 1 .*!. 1 (i 2l).;i.-) •_'+ 4(1.17 (i.4;{ :n 12.10 2(i.,-)4 •_*.") •_'() 4.").!) 44.2.") 1 . t o.:n Sept. •J 7 Xo ol)..-) :ii IS :!2.;i!i 20.20 20 12.40 20.48 1!) 2!t '] 18.10 21 l.-).44 28.. -)G 20 Aniveil at I'alina, ( anaiy 22 18.0 28. .-.S Islaiul.s. 2;{ 20. LS 20.22 2 "2 Left I'alnia. 24 Arriveil Trin'.la 1. I.rft 2:{ 2(i..-)4 1S47 •sinie dav. 24 24.20 20.24 2.'. 21.28 :ii..-.i 2:> 2L2 21.41 2<; 22. 1 :i4.:i4 2(1 18.13 24.2 .1" — 1 22.21 ;{(i.44 TABLE OF DAILY POSITIONS. 457 T.oll;. . w \ilU'( nt, lo I ilaiuls. •2.") .•{0' 'Jli :.4 28.4 •27.4.-. 27.24 27.10 2(1.. S2 27. 1 nil. 11 I.nli,-. W. :!0.27 iiaiulij .Ni Xoroiilu . .•{2. ic. .SI. 4!l :ii 20.48 2S. .-.0 2S. .->s •"1 ■>•) liul 1 ..■ft :;i .•M .-.1 :!4 :i(j 44 1SS7. Sept. Lat. S. Lon-. \V. 28 22=24' 39'22' 29 Arrived at Rio de Janeiro. Oct. 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 27 28 29 30 31 Nov. 1 2 3 11 12 13 14 lo l(i 17 Left Rio de .Janeiro. 25.55 4(1.7 No observations. 30.42 48.39 Xo observations. No observations. 31.41 49.54 33 51.33 34.50 54. 2G Arriveioi.te Video. No observations. 38.42 50.20 No observations. 39.52 50.57 40.50 50.10 41.15 02. 31) Arrived in Nouvo (Udf. Left Nenvo (Udf. 43.56 64.20 44.-38 63.28 46.18 62.45 48.15 (il.3 40.46 59.17 Arrived at Stanley, Falk- lands. 1888. Vvh. 10 n 12 13 14 15 April 17 is 10 20 2' f».i 23 21 25 2(1 Left ■'Stanley. 40.43 .50.44 52 52.41 59. ,54 63.56 65.59 68.15 Entered ]Ma<'ellan's Straits. Left Smyth's Channel. 46'^42 7(i.in 44.38 77.40 44.7 78.3 4,3.1 77.3 41.47 75.47 40,20 75.30 .•{0.4,'. 75.53 38.2:: 37.50 76. 1 S r7.io 1888. April 27 28 29 30 ]May T.at. S 3() 44' 35.37 35.4 34.24 77 12' 76.7 7().19 77.12 34.13 7' 2 Airived at ,Juan Fen dez. 8 Left -Juan Fernandez. 9 31.38 10 29.16 1 1 2(!. 1 12 22.52 1 3 20. 1 14 ^ 17.57 15 Xo observations. 16 X'o observations. 17 Arrived at Mollendo. June 2 Left :^Iolleiido. 3 16.45 4 1.-..18 5 Airi\ ed at Callao. 3 lan- ),) .6 .) .42 58 43 74.10 77.18 July 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Aug. 1 Left Callao. 1 2. 1 s 13.23 1,5.4 16.10 16.44 17.14 18.6 19.28 20.52 22.3 22.29 22.51 24.2 25.35 26.24 27.5 27.21 27.24 27.50 •>- .". 78.20 81.7 83.40 85.58 87.28 89.40 91.56 05. 5 07.35 00.48 100.50 101.23 10.3.28 8 Arrived at luister 16 Left Kaster Island. 104 105 J 05 106 106 107 108.16 Island. 5 17 12 ■"i V i, 3 M 438 APPKNDIX. ' !; I 1';, |!^ 1SS8. ISSS Aug. Lat. S. Long. W. Oct. I..it. s. Long. K. 17 25 r)5' Ill 1.5' .1.) IS .-.0' 1 70 20' 18 25. 1 2 11 3.. 54 23 Arrived at Sm a, Fiji. 19 24.21 115.35 20 Lett Suva. 20 2:1 1 2 117 .1- 10.48 175.54 21 21. n 110.20 2S 21.0 1 72. 1 1 22 10.20 122.25 20 22.25 100.25 •23 17.4.S 124.20 30 Arrived at Noumea, New 24 1.-...S2 127.40 Caledonia. 25 ]:}.27 130.31 26 12.24 .133.30 X..V. 27 11.32 13.5.15 Left X(iuiiio-i. •_'s 10.4() 130.13 t 23.24 ni "■■■ 'Jit Arrivod at Fatou - hiva, S 2.3.8 !!':.5.j Manjuepas. 21.40 L.S.IO 31 Left Fato i-hiva. Arrived 10 Arrived at iM'roniango Iliva-o£i, Manj ue.sas. Island, New i!el)riiles. 12 Left Krroniango. 13 Ai'rived at Sandwich Sopt. Left Iliva-oa. Airivod NuUa-Iii Lsland, New Hebrides. :i va, Mar- 14 Left Sandwieli Island. 4 Arrived at Mallieollo 15 T) (jiu'.sas. Left Xu.Ua-hiva. 10 Island, \e\v Left .Malli.M.ll., Hebrides. (i 1 0. 54 141. 50 7 1 2. 1 1 13. IS 17 Arrived l^spii New llebrid itn Santo, e.s. 8 13.52 145.40 10 Left Ks])iritu Santo. 9 14.50 147.40 20 1 L 4 5 100.20 10 Ki.li 14S.40 Ai'rived at \' Lsland, lian anna Luva 1 1 ' 11 1(5.29 14S.30 21 12 Arrived at Tahit i. Us (■roup. 2o Left Tahiti. 25 2() 27 2s 20 Left \'anua Lava. 12.25 10(i.,-0 IJeealnied oil' Santa Cm;., Do. do. Do. do. Arri\ed at Santa Cruz. 21) 27 28 10.4 14.54 14.43 150.50 152.50 155.;i() 29 30 14.41 14.11 15>.24 102.32 30 Dec. Oct. 1 Left Santa Cruz. 1 14.10 105.48 •2 No olisevvation s. .J 14.20 lOS. 10 3 7.50 100.55 ;i Arrived at l'a,L,'ong. w. April Lat. X. I.oii- W. 12 5-49' 178 20' IS 44 28' 127 41' 13 (i.S 17(i..")0 14 40. .")0 127.40 14 7.10 17!). IT) 1,-) In Juan de Fuca Straits. 15 n.;? I7.")..")0 10 Arrived at I''si|uinialt, li.C. 16 ](l.4() 170..") 17 1 -2. 1 ,-! 170.8 -May 18 ]:iu 17r)..-.0 ' 4 Lc ft Ksfiuiinalt. 19 l.K.S.-) 17.-).;i7 .") In Juan de Fuca Straits. 20 i().;u 17.-).--'.-) () X ■) observations. 21 1S.17 174. .■).") / 48.,-) 12.-)..-).-i 22 1!).4 1 74. 1 ;{ 8 40. S7 1 28 23 ]!t.44 171.. SO 4.-). 17 128 24 11I.44 100.44 10 44. 4S 128.22 25 :20.;]i 10!).;j.") 11 4S.S0 1211.40 26 20.57 ios.r)0 12 42..')0 1 SS. 1 27 LM.7 107..") IS 42. 1 4 1.SS.2.-) 28 21.'2:i Ki.L.SS 14 40. S.") 1S4..". 29 •2l.:!l ii;-_'.o 1.") SO. SI 1S4.40 30 •_>l.:{0 l.".S..")0 10 S8.4 1 :!.".. 40 :n Arrived at llcmdlulu, 17 S(i..")4 IS."). 44 .Sandwich Lsl ands. 18 10 .•>').2.-) S,-).S4 1SO..")0 IS 8. 8 1S89. 20 S4..-.(i ISs.SS I'-eb. 21 S4.S1 ISO.S :? Left Hoiuilulu. 22 S4. 1 140.4(i 4 ■_'•-'. -j:! 1. ".().. lO 2S S4.2S 144..-)0 5 •->:?. 7 l.")(!.l 24 S4.42 147.SII 6 24.'_'!) l.")4.41 2.") S4.0 l,")0.2(i 7 2().4l l.")l.i.'l 20 SS..".0 l.-)1.40 8 2!!..-) 147.40 •■il SS.S7 l.")2.S 9 .SI. 13 14.").;n 28 SI.. -.2 1.").S.7 10 Xl 1 I 140. SO 20 Sl.SS 1,-)4.2S 11 ;i4.is i.S!).:5:{ SO S0..")2 1.")().2 12 .S().4(i 140 31 SO. 1 2 1.->7.I2 13 .S7.."> 130..-.S 14 •M.:\r, i;u. .■>•_» June 15 :{7.i4 IS. •{.•_' 8 I 20.48 !,")(;. S2 16 :!7..-) isi.-j.-) k| 24. 4d 1.-).") 17 :i7..-) ISd. 10 .S 21,.S4 1. ").".. 4.") 18 :!7.-Js l-.'7..")ii 4 A rrived at Lahaina, Sand 10 •.\:.-2s iL'o.i; wicii IslaniLs, 20 •M.-21 1 •-'4. •_'.") L L'ft Laiuiina. •_'l ;!7.:i-> lis..-)!) 7 20.4.-) 1.')S.1S '}•> An:v'-,i iit San l''ianci.sco. 8 9 21.8 21. S l.-)0.S8 100. .".2 April 10 20. SS 102.20 (} Left San l''rancisco. 11 is. IS 104.1 7 .'{s. 1 '2 12S. .-).") 12 18.0 10."... ".4 8 :!S.;{i l'-'.-)..". IS 1 S. 1 8 107. 4() .■tS.43 1 ■-'(). 20 14 KS.S 170.22 10 .•!S.44 l'J7.SS 1.-. 18.S 172.. ".7 11 12 S8..")l 41.2.") 120.14 12S. hi 17. IS 17.")..S.") 178. SO 4G0 APPENDIX. ! I! 1SS9. 1890. June l.iit. x. Long. E. May I.:it. X. T.oii;;. E. in l(i 4it' 17S-.V2' !) 33 24' 1 3.-. ,-.4' 20 i(j.;n 170. '20 10 34. 1 1 137..').-> 21 10.17 174..-) 11 34.1.-. 138.42 22 ir).o,j 17-2. 1-2 12 3. -...■« 2 142.37 23 10.34 10!). '28 13 37.4!l 14.-. 24 ir..8 100..-)4 14 3S..-.8 140.10 25 14.,js 104.32 1.-) 3!)..".l 147.4!) ,ip 14.43 101.-)!) 10 41.20 14S. .-..-) 14.32 I .-)!». 42 17 43.2(t l.-.l. 13 — "i 14. .SO 157.22 18 4.'.. 4 1 1.-.3..30 2y ]4.i-_' ir)4.54 1!) 4(1.20 1.-.4.2 30 14 152.rj0 20 4(;..-.s ir.0.49 21 4S.2.-. 1,-)S..-) .luly 22 r.1.21 i.-.s..-..-. 1 ri..-.6 l.-.l 23 Arrived at Petr .paulowski 2 13.,J7 148.54 30 Loft I'otropaulovski. 3 14 147.41 31 .-.2..-. 1.-.S.2S 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 2» 29 30 31 Aug, 1 2 3 4 5 rt s 13.. -.2 140.27 Arrived at (iuajau Island Marianas. Left ^larianas. 1 .-.. 1 2 17.32 111.22 20.2 20. .-.0 22.47 24. 1 2.-..0 20.4 20.30 Arrived at Port IVel Lslan.l, Islands. Left Port Lloyd. 27.53 28.15 29.7 29.43 143.49 14.3.23 143.5 142.. -.5 142.55 143 142.40 142.25 142.42 142.23 Lloyd, iSonin 141.411 1 IO..37 139.4 1 139.43 30.32 137.57 30.49 137.48 30.44 137.5 31.28 ]3(i. 17 32.8 i;i0.2() 33.10 130.10 In the ] Airivcil at Jaluit, Mar- ^iiall Islands. Li'tt Jaluit. Xo observations. 4..-)0 Kin. 45 4.4!l |{iS.,-)f) .").;{() 1(10.4.") .").;{(j l()4.jl ISOO. July •20 '22 2;? '24 2o 20 27 2s 2!) Lat. X. L..H,-. E. Aniveil at Kusaie, Caro- line Islands. Left Kusaie. i> il (i.3 r)..-)2 .').4S 0.7 0.20 0..")0 1G2'12' 161.18 l(iO..")0 100.20 l.">!).."iG !.■.!!. 2.") I. VS. .-).•? ^V reeked on the Island of I'onapi, Carolines. ^w^~ M ! hi- [\ 1: INDEX. AguUii, tliL' Sjiaiiisli colnuy at, 020-:5'_'2 — (•(iL-k-tiji'litiii.i; at, :!2-'i. Aui-Miiatsii, a iiinlit at, o'i'2—a livlniil 'liotcl at, ■4'>.',. ' Ainu iliviiiitics in onlcr of iirui'tMU-nco, ■VMK 1 10— Ainu K'ucmls of a faniino, 410-tlL'. Ainus, tlie, and tliuii- ri'Iii^inn, ;J77, -SrS — tlit'ir Lu'qut'r possession.'s lii^jlily valufil, 3Si2 — tlie liuar an nlijiTt nl' wor.dii|i iiy, (/i. — a lii.i^nilii'il-lookini;' raof, ys?. Anii'i-ica, railway travulliii;^' in, oOl. Anai. ^generous ]iri'Sfnts from tlio gover- nor of, O'J.'l. Are(|uiiia, lirst inijiressions of, ir2-114 —visit to till' cathedra; of, 111- great elevation of the railway from, to I'uno, ll.'i. Arrinia, notice of, '■i'o>>. Ashiwo, a (Minvict est.alilishment near, :itil -the I'ass. ^.^^^2. Atalinaliia. the last of the hica sover- eigns, iiainting representing tlie fun- eral of, 1 17. Awomori, the town of, :!7 1. Hanks Islan.ls, the, 211. Hear-huntiug nmler dillicnlties, 408 cl srr/, Betclievinskaya I'ay, the yacht nar- rowlv escapes groumlmg m, Blackliirdinu 111. Jicuiin islands, tlie, aeeo\int of, 327, y2S. Uorga. Hay, 7(3 — inijiortunity of the nativi's, 77. IJnrgovne liay, 81 — otters numerous in, S.'p. " t'alil'ornia Atliletic Cluli, exhiMlion of sjiarring at the, 2S!1. Callao, 127, 128— visit to tlie hospital at, 1-j8 — tlie eoek-pit ami eoek-liglit- ing at, //*., Vy.K (,'annilials, narrow escape from, in the Fiji Islands, 217. Cape du Ver le Islands, 7, 8. Carlisle Bay, 218 — land at a village on the liay, where a monument is erected to Commodore (ioodeuongh. Hi. — • friendly rec'eplicni liy the natives, //). — exploration of the harljour, 219 — succeed in |uirchasiugs(Uiie handsome ornaments, //(. — evil reputation of the natives, 2."il. Carolim' Islands, the, liistory of, -121 — natives of, appareiitlv akin in oriu'iu to those of the Marshall Islands, \V.K Cai'ringtou, Cajitain, uiisatisl'aetory nature of his olisi.rvati(Uis, 121, 122 - his inililfereiice when the yacht had giuie aslnu'e, 121. ('hicla, its height ahoxe the sea, 13."i - ri'Iniii from, to Lima hy a novel moile of travelliim', ///. Chililaya, lis. "China Town," in San !''rancisco, a visit lo, Lilil — a "Joss-house" in, ill., 2!I2 — the opium -dens of, 2i>2 — a Chinese theatre. //(. — a liixiii'ious restaurant in, 2'.'3. Christmas-day on tlie Pacilic, ii."3, 2.") I. Cima tunnel, the, loftiest jioint I'cached liv ;inv railwav in the world, 13."). 21(i. liolivia, 118-121. a thing of the past, Cochineal indii^trv of Santa Cniz, 7. Collin Islands, the. 327. Cook Hav, vilkcjc of, ItJO. ■count nf, 3'27, iituiiity of tlio ■rs nuiiiL'Voiis in, li, exliiMtion of to till.' liosiiital and coL'k-liglit- pc from, in the 7,8. I at a village on luinent is ereeteil itlenou.uli, ih. — ■ ■ the natives, (7*. ' InirlH.ur, lillt — i^sonie liamlsonie reputation of tin; history of, -l".;! — ■ Iv akin in oriu'in Imll Islands, -119. nnsatisfaetorv nations, l-Jl, Vi-1 leu the yaclit Inul ii' thr sua, VX) - ma liv a novel ■/-. \in Francisco, a ss-house " in, rt., lens of, l!ll2-a ). — a luxurious I'acilie, 253, li."!!. lest jioint reached le world, 135. Santa Cruz, 7. LtiO. INDEX. 4G.1 Corcovada mountain, the expedition to the summit of, I'.i. Dog-slciuli, a riilc in a, lliil, 107. Easter Island, 1.55— hearty reception at, 15ti — traces of former inhaliitants, 157 — origin of tlu' name, //'.—intro- duction of Christianity into, 101 — I'esourees of, Itil!. Erromango Island, 230 — interesting .service in the I'reshyterian clinreii tliere, //;. — curiodiuuting in, 2-33. Esjiiritu Santo Island, 210 -natives of, contrasted witli those nf Mallicollo, ill. — curious custom among t he nativ<'s of, 211— discovery of the island, and its dimensions, l'I2, Kstion of ithe island, 11, Fiji Islands, the, history of, 214, 215— natives of, skilful in various occuiia- tions, 215 — theii' ajipearanec, 2]lJ — tlie successful cultivation of tea in, ill. — liananas and )iine-apples largely exported from, 217 — narrow escapes from eannilials in, //;. Flavio Gioia, an Italian man-of-war. in- tiM-view with the captain and ollicers of the, 01. Forestier, Father, and tlie Frencli Catholic Jlission at Fanojiayo, l!t7. 190. Fort Santa Ci'uz, a visit to, :)22. Fortescne Hay, 75— character of the natives, 7ti. Friemlly Islands, the, notice of, 207. Furnas, the liot Nnlphur-s]irings of, \. Gan-du-san, the volcano of, 370. (Jeorge Island, 51. (lo-no-he. a night at tlie village of, 372. Gregory Hay, (iS. Guia Narrows, the, lieauty of the scenery of, 90. Iliikodadi, the |iuhlic gardens of, 37ti — the "Stone of (Ireen I'llood," 377 — the headipiarters of the various mis- sionaries, 379. Hale Cove, 97. llanga-roa, l(il. Hawaii, I'riuccss K'aiulani of, her visit to tlie Xvanza, 2(17— audience of the king of, -iii'.i, Hikone, the town of, descrihed, 3-15 — Journey from, into the interior of .lapan, 3|i| it sc/. Ililo, attractive .scenery of the hay of, 2(10- a)ipearance of tlie town ol, l!G1 - pi'oljtalilc siigarniill near, ///. Hiogi>, the town of, 33 1 —interesting temiile there, 335 — curious iiiscriii- ti(Ui on a stiuie at, ili fair at, //;. Iliva-oa, .Mr Uohcrt Louis Steveiisdn at, 171 -the island descrihed, 172, 173, fl(Uig-Koiig, Court of Impiirv lield at, concerning the loss of the Nyanza, ■135 ft .si'i/., 1 17 ct sii/. Honolulu, arrival at, 251— the old year rung out and the new year rung in at, 255--civilisation at, 257— the' Angli- can cathedral at, 2t;S--the (love'rii- nicnt museum of, 27ti — the jirison, 271— the Queen's Hospital, 272— the l.unalilo Home, ///,— the Kamehanie- lia schools, 27 I -naval dramatic en- tertainment at, 275--tlie myal mau- soleum at, 270, 277 — an 'amateur lierformance at the ojiera-house of, 278— a naval court at, 2S0— liiial de- jiarture from, 2S1, lie Xoii, tlie convict est.ahlisliment on, 22(1-228. Incajintiqiiities, collect ion of, for sale, 137 — great sum asked for it, /''. — a good liargain made in the ]itirchase thereof, 110 -two line jirivate collec- tions of, 1 13— another eollectiou of, 117. Ishiyaiiiii. celehrated temple at, 310. Istlimus liay, SO. daliiit, American settlement at, -110. .lajiaii, jirogTcss of Catholicism in, :]\2 — .Murray's ' (iuide-liook to. lapan' at fault as to iufiu-mation regardiii", 357. 3.59,371. • ra]iaiiese police, 371— and infantry, ili. .liuriksha, a, lirst ex|ierience of, 333. •I nan Fernandez, island of, descrihed, 102-10-1 — monument erected on, in memory of Alexander Selkirk, 105. Kaluga, ancient stone monument at, 208. Kamschatka, the jieninsula of, account of, -101— tlie fur-trade of, -lO.'). Kane-ga-saki, an uiicond'ortahle nigh' at, :i09, " Kango,'' a, nioile of convevance hv, 3:i0, 337. Kannari, a night at, 308— remarkahle curiosity iii possession of a native of, Kii Channel, the, pretty scenery of, • i')2. Kilauea, the great voh'ano of, excursion to, 201 ct scq. Kinau (s.s.), the, tri]i on hoard of, o",9 — an amusing regulation ol', 200. Kioto, the wonderful temples of, .'!37 d K'l/. — its numufactures, 339 — at a theatre there, il/. ..Ji-r^irff 4G4 INDEX. I ', Kolip, arrival at, '^A^ — tin' native town of, ;i:51~ tlic iMirojii'aii (|iiartfr no- tired, ///. — cxnrliitaiit iniccs a>kc(l lor uarcs in, .'i:!.') — tlic Catholic ('liiircli at, •■512 — Mtti-ni]itc(l .swiiiiUc liy a ciiriosity-ilcalcr at, .'ij:! — tako jiassaice IVoMi, I'or Kiij;lanil, li!'!) — return to, after tour nmutlis' aliseiiee. 100. Kotsunaui, tlie village of, ;)71 — van- dalism of modern eivilisation at, ih. Kusaie Island, iiietnresqiie ajijiearanee of, -US — visit to the kin,-. -119 — a great Protestant niissicniarN vtron^'- hold, -IJO— taken hy the ki'n.i,' to in- sjieet some interest in,i; rnins on, ih. — a laml of jilenty, 121. La Paz, descrilieil. IT,', VJiU-.Tppcaranee of Bolivian reuiment (|Martereil at, l:iO~Sunday! .ket at, iL'l— e\irious eenietery at, 1. t. Ladrones, the, or ^Mariana lslan7. M.'i th Mallicollolsla Ige of, li'd. . 2-'5t) — the t'atholin ami Protestant niissionarie Christianise the natives nns etforts to ssfnl. //.. )7 — visit to a native village, 'I'-'i '^^^y — evidences of Jihallie worship among the natives of, ///.- great fancv lip tidieii liy two natives of, to the si cook, and his alarm thereat, ■J.')9. Jlanila. the, a Spanish transport, lios- ]iitalile reie|itioii on lioanl of, l-j.'i, 42ii. Ma npiesa- Islands, the hist&2, ■ )>'<■',. Xiukalofa, the town and harhour of, 20(j. Noumea, town of, 219 — ixhihitimi of local industries at, 221 — revolting crime I'ommitteil hy the liaml-master of the convict hand at, 221, 222— ex- orhitaut pilotage at, 229. Nuevo Culf, :jl. Nnka-hiva. 171 — reniarkahle Knglisli- nian resident there, 175 — dea'-ness of ]irovisi(Mis in, ///. Nyanza, the, her sea-going ea|jahilitie.s tested, 2:} — 1 ler eoiumissar iat ;i, stfd with Uio V uunMiiuj; I'air l-riii:.' I'f, -^— or slau.Ljhtcr- 3S0. 0. ous cdve near, -iiiilivcssiousof, tnn'tiou cansfil iiKMit stu(M'aviii in at, 213. ■V of, 2-i:i — in- 'I'Oiu'oriiiii^' the L'ursiou into the s>iou lilV ill, 2:''.2. tuuiph's of, :'.t'i2, ;iinl havliouv of, 9 — ixliihitiiiu of 221 — revolting ,"• the liaiid-liiaster .at. 221, 222 -ex- , 229. lavkalih' F.ii.i-'li-h-^ , 17.'!— tlea'iiess of -"joiuf; cajialiilities ■oiniuissaviat IXDliX. 4G5 - assistaiiee n.^ihleiXMl hy the Spanish authorities, //). — visit to, and opera- tions on the \vr M/k, |:il (ind it dama,i;ed and ]iiiiiidered hy the natixes, 132 — reeovery of stolen artieh-s from, 433 — sah^ of the wreek, ■13 I — eonduet of the ollleers and crew of, -135 — t-'ourt of linpiiry coneerniiiK the loss of, 13,") (/ ,sri/., 117 it ticq.- ■ description of, llS-distanees and duration of | lassiijji's, 1 l.'J, Ml — sum- mary of voyaj,'i'. 111 — list of the oriLf- ilial erew of, ili., -11.") — list of erew at date of shijiwreek, M.'i" list of ollieers anil men temiiorarily on hoard of, ll.'p, 116 — tahle of daily positions, ir)U ('/ ticq. Ohrases, 122. Oil, utility of, in heavy seas, 100. Unjama, amusiii.i,' scene at a fair there, 3.'.9, 3G0. Oran^'e industry of St Michael's, decline of the, 5. Osaka, iiotiee of, 311 — eurio-huntiiiL; in, 313, 311. Otsu, ;i39-- hcautifid scenery on the railway frum, to Ilikoue, 311, 31"). Otuit', visit to the crater of, li")7, liJ8, I'agoiiago, 19ti— the Fn-nch Catholic >Iissii)n at, and Father Forestier, 197-199— curio-hunting in, 201, I'alma, island of, ti, 7. Papeeti, 178 — a disapiiointing town, 171' — moih'st reipiest of a nnssionarv there, 1>0, " I'aysanilu ox-tongues," 29, I'enguin rookerv, a reniarkahle, ")3. Peru, lack of ' lighthouses in, 109— curious custom jirevalcnt amongst the churche"! of. 111, Pctro]iaulovski, arrival at, 401 — visit to the governor of, 402 — curious jiresent from him, 103— an nmlesir- ahle place for residence, 40,"). Piritori. the village of, 384 — visit to the chief of, 38t.i', 387. Pizarro, his reputed remains on view in the cathedral at Limn, 147 — theiv scandalous treatment, P>. Phiya Parda t'ove, 7>^. Plymouth Sound, start of the Xyaiiza from, 1. Poiiapi, island of, f'Uthreak of war in the, 42t) — hoiiiliardment of villages on the, 127 — suicide of the ollieers in command of the troojis on the, 128 — end of the outhrcak, and siihinissioii of the chiefs, 129— Amerii'an Pro- testant missionari.'s resiionsihle for the (uithreak, 131, 132. Ponta Delgada, description of, 2, Porpoises, a shoal of, 39, Port Darwin, ;">(), ")7, Port Lloyd, lirst experience of Jaininese life there, ,128— visitors to the Xyanza while in the liarhour of, ;!2',>-"-visit from the governor at, 331. {'(U't Madryn, 32 — eonstnictinn of a railway from, to Chupat, 3,:',. Port San Luis d'Apra, arrival at, 3,18. Puerto ihieiio, visit from natives of, in a canoe, S!^ - visit an 1 ndiaii camp iit, 89, I'lierto (Irande, 8— deanicss i)f water at, il). Puno, the railwav from .MoUcndo to. Uti. Punto Pili, the village of, 320. liangiroa aloll, 17(). Pat island, P!, iiio lie .Janeiro, dcscriptiiui of, 17, Piiggles island, a day's shooting on, 62 — unfortunale accident in connection therewith, (13, Sacr.ameiito river, a trip u]i the. 299 Sacramento, the town of, descrihed, 303,301. Samoa, the civil war in, 202-201. Samoan Islands, the, 191 rclli^ious sects in, 199- natives of, 19"), San Antonio, great fertility of, 8. San Francisco, line scenery of the hay of, 281--the town descrihed, ib. — the calilc-ear svstcm of, and cheap fares, 28.")— the Ocriilcutal Hotel, 286— sen- sational articles in the newsjiaiicrs of, ///. -visit to the lieadi|uartcrs of the troops stationed in, 287, 288. San ,Iose, 2") — Swiss colony at, 26. San Lorenzo, 111. San Nicholas P.ay, 73. San (,)uentin, a visit to the prison at, 29."), 296— reniurkalile story of one of the ))risoners there, 297. Sandwich or Ffate Island, its line liar- hour, 234 — colfee grown to iierfection on the, 23,") — natives of the, ili. Sandwich Islands, the, description of, 2,-i6, Sandy Joint, descri]ition of, 70 — IJritisli naval cemetery at, 71 — severe liiirri- eane at, 72. Santa Cniz, a]i]H'arancc of, from the sea, 6- the cochineal imlustry of. 7. Santa Cruz, the island of, 21;")— the natives of, descrihed, 216. Santa Lucia, interview with an llnglisli eiigiiii'-driver at, ]2"i. Santa Maria, islaiul of, 6. Sant:i 'I'hereza, l'.'. Santiago de la Ascencion, the settle- ment of, 426, SapjKU-o, the town of, 390— tormented l)y llying hugs at, ih. Sausali'to, the headcpiarters of the yachtsmen of San Francisco, e.xeur- .sioii to, 294— rival vacht-eluhs, ib., 295. 3 N /^n u ««fc f J?V-*W.C** rs^ 46G INDEX. If'li li Siiiilui. iucomil ol'tlic town of, 3tiG. '• Sliii^'" rookery, a, "i^!. Sliiirk. a ^'i'-raiitic, :i'J(j — caiptiirc of a small, ;!:«. Sliiiiio-iio-Siiwa, arrival at, ;!")()- -arrest of refractory eoolies at, Ijy the jioiiee, ami their iiii|M'isoiimeiit, ih. Shiwojiri Pass, (he, :i,')(j — refraetory eoolie.s at, ///. Sholl Hay, the N'yaiiza ai^rouml in, 8:^ — liail behaviour of the erew, S:',. Smyth's Chainiel, M, 8.j. "Society Islands," tlm, 181. Slieeilwell Island, frZ. St Louis, mission-station of, 1.':.'."), ■J-Jil. St Michael's as a health-resort, 'i ile- cliueot'its (n'an,i,'e industry, "i. St Paul's Kni-ks, a fruitless search for, 0. St Vincent, 7, 8. Stanley, 11 — unpleasant incident at, h'i — prosiierity of, I'l, It! — almndanee of .ijanji' at, 17, IS— farewidl to, li(J. Steveirson, Mr iioliert Louis, an even- in;; with him and his relations at lliva-oa, 17-. Suva harliour, 212, 21:i — the town of, disapijointini,', 218. Suwara. romantic situation of, o."2 silk-culture at, ///. Tahiti, history of the ArchipelaL'o nf, 180-1 >2 — excursion throu^ch the ishnul of, I8;i ct Kcij. — mail eonimunication lietween, and San Francisco, 11(1 - the t'.'itholic bishop of, 1!>2 — farewell to, VXi. Tareuskei, visit to Admiral Price's grave at, 112. 'I'eiierilfe. the Peak o|', 7. Tei'ano Kan, an extinct volcano, visited, lii:J. Tierra del Fuego, the Indians of, de- scribe."» idiry- sauthenjum show at, .'{li.'i -visit to Deakins' Fine Art (iallerv there, III. Tonga, political aM'airs in, 210. 211. To)ig;itabu, the " Knu'rald Isle of the Pacitic,'' 20S -visit to the chief of, ///. — preparation of l.v.ca, a native di-ink, ill. Tougoa, 2:!!t. Torii Pass, the, ;l.Vi. Treh'W. descii|iti(Ui of, .'il, .^.'i — history of a Welsh settlement .-it, ;i,">, :!t>. Trinidad, island of, 1 1, 1 ">--inctfectual attcnii't, at lauding, l.'». I'ruguav, 2.')— conilitions of farnjing in, I'tsouomiya, the town of, :■')') — annising attempt at Fuglish on a sigu-lioard in, Vaihou. l.",8. Vancouver Island, history of, ."10 — sport in, ;)12. \'ictoria, \\w city of, ilescribed, 811 — laying of the foum!ation-st(Uie of the lioyal .lubilee Hospital there, .'il.'}. N'olc ano House hotel, disgraceful prac- tices at, 2(11. Volcano Island, 2 hi. Wada, the village of, '.j^i' — the Pass, Waikiki, an excursion to, 2."i!). Waterfall Hay, territic scpiall at, 9ti. N'agohara, noted for the manufacture of wooden coudis, :5."i 1 — fresh troubles at, o."i.'>. ^'okohama, a disappointing town, 398. \'okokowa, the village of, ;i5S. Voshioka, a ilisttirlied niglit at, 867. rHlNTHI) UV WILLIAM lU.Ai, li W(i{ pD ASTi SONS. t si'i'iifvy 111', s usi'il on, liv 1, :i',i.") rhi-y- ili,') visit to uUny tliL-re, •ilO, -Jll. ,1 Islf of tllL' tlic cliii'f fit; aca, 11 native 14, X^- liistory lit, ;5r., :!(•.. I'l-iUftlfL'tlKll of fiiniiin.L; in, ', ;>).") — iuuusiuu; ;i.l in, tory of, 310 cscvilii-'il, 311 — oil-stone of the 111 there, 313. i>i,'r;u'eful pr:u:- 357— the Pass, to, -J-pO. sqniiU at, 9(i. the niannfaeture l_fi-(;sh trouhles itini.' town, 393. ol', 3"jS. night at, 307. iLuriullL 'CroietH \ ^ 1 i^jKr^uelm;; \, t i 160 40 60 100 =# Jolui Bai'iiioloii pw il Ci) THE TRACK 0FTHE"NYANZ thfc £(iuib.ii-j;'i C.euj-i-.ii.fui-.J LisUtiitc ni fthe"nyanza" r. n. y c. .'olui Bai'Uio'.oiiif'w < ■' #; ,._ V'', ,\ L r it'i , :, 1 P'':i 11 W i { ' '-' 1 " m 'Mh m 1 IMm M »""^^* "W"'