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 SKETCHES OF A SOLDIER'S LIFE 
 
 
I.O.N DON 
 
 PUINTIiJ) UY Sl'OTTItiVVOOUK AND CO. 
 
 NJiW-iSTIiEliT bt^UAHE 
 
 
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CANADA AND TiiK CVx\m\ 
 
 OK 
 
 . .^Kia'ciiK.^ OF A SOU) liars iavk 
 
 FROM TIIL: JOUllNALS AND COURESPONDENCH OF THE LATE 
 
 MAJOR RANKEiX, R.E. 
 
 EDITED BY HIS EROTUER, W. RAY^'E RAXKEX 
 
 LOJ\DOx\ 
 LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 
 
COXrK.XTS 
 
 ~*o*- 
 
 ruAP. 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 in. 
 
 V. 
 
 VI. 
 
 VII. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 IX. 
 
 X. 
 
 XI. 
 
 XII. 
 XIII. 
 XIV. 
 
 XV. 
 XVI. 
 
 In ruoDicTioN 
 
 Moi.m: III ntin(; - A Canadian l-'uii; 
 
 Ti<Avi',i.i,iN(; IN iiii; l,'.Nm:i) SiAir.s 
 
 J'iiii,.vi)r,i.i'inA - GiuAUi) Coi.i.wii; Stati; IIoisf, 
 
 STArNi'oN Lexinoton— An i ni'i.i-.asant Kidi; anm . 
 
 DisAouKEAHLE AnvR.NTL'ui; -Visit m [Iauit.h's Im.wuy 
 
 Axn RETruN TO Washinotox 
 iNAioiuArioN Day at Washinotox .Miokti.no wrn 
 
 Thackeray — Chahi.estom 
 Charleston -Slave Market Savannah Key \Ve>'i 
 Key Wesi- and the Havana 
 Havana — De Ramos, Palm-Sunday — A Dinner wrn 
 
 the English Consul — Return to Montreal 
 QuEUEC - Gavazzi Riots — Rumours ok War . 
 Bound for the Crimea Ahrivai. ai' Sehastoi>oi. 
 The Assault ok the Redan 
 Inside Seiiastopol 
 Winter in the Crimea . 
 The New Year .... 
 The Last Death in the Crimea 
 
 Appendix ... 
 
 PA (IE 
 
 I 
 
 HI 
 
 !)!) 
 117 
 i;{;} 
 
 Kil 
 
 ins 
 20;} 
 
 228 
 250 
 27;i 
 291 
 
 ;}()7 
 
M 
 
 self 
 brot 
 
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 and 
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 inte] 
 whic 
 publ 
 read 
 
 A 
 appe 
 publ 
 
 I 
 pres< 
 
CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 5 
 
 
 MY object is to make this book, as far as possible, 
 autobiograpbical. I sliaU therefore content my- 
 self by giving a very sliglit introductory sketch of my 
 brother's life before he entered the army. 
 
 From that time, until his death in 1856, his letters 
 and journals record its principal events. I have selected 
 from these what I consider the most striking and 
 interesting passages ; purposely omitting everytldug 
 which it appeared a violation of confidence to make 
 public, or which would be unattractive to the general 
 reader. 
 
 A portion of the contents of this book has already 
 appeared in a small volume/- edited by myself and 
 published four years ago.* 
 
 I have added considerably to this portion of my 
 present subject, and availed myself of information I 
 
 * Six Months at Sobastopol, 
 B 
 
 
CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 have received, to render my brother's narrative of events 
 in the Crimea as correct as possible. 
 
 Should this labour of love prove successful, its 
 success must be attributed to him ; should it fail, it will 
 be owing to want of skill on my part, in the arrange- 
 ment of materials, in themselves interesting and 
 attractive.* 
 
 George Ranken was born in London, on the 4th of 
 January, 1 828. He was educated by the Rev. Dr. Smith, 
 at Rottingdean, near Brighton, and the Rev. William 
 Moore, at Ryde, Isle of Wight. 
 
 In 1843 he received from the Right Hon. Henry 
 Goulburn a nomination for a cadetship at the Royal 
 Military Academy, Woolwich. 
 
 In that year he left the Isle of Wight, to commence 
 at Woolwich his future course of studies. In 1844 he 
 became a cadet, anu in October 1847 was commissioned 
 as second lieutenant in the Royal Engineers, having 
 passed a most excellent examination, in which he held 
 the fourth place among forty competitors. 
 
 This was a successful debut into military life for one 
 who had had but little previous training for the Aca- 
 demy, and no intention, until 1843, of entering a 
 scientific corps. 
 
 * The publication of tins book has, from various causes, been 
 delayed ; but no time seems more fitted for its appearance tlian 
 the present, when so much interest is concentrated upon Canada, 
 and when the prospect of a winter campaig-n in the West recalls 
 the heroism and devotion displayed six or seven years ago by our 
 noble army in the East. 
 
 ten 
 to 
 
 I 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 tive of events 
 
 iccessful, its 
 it fail, it will 
 the arrange- 
 resting and 
 
 1 the 4th of 
 7. Dr. Smith, 
 ev. William 
 
 Ion. Henry 
 b the Eoyal 
 
 ) commence 
 [n 1844 he 
 mmissioned 
 ers, having 
 ch he held 
 
 life for one 
 r the Aca- 
 entering a 
 
 causes, been 
 •earance tlian 
 ipon Canada, 
 West recalls 
 s ago by our 
 
 In December 1849 my l)rother became a first lien- 
 tenant, and in April 1850 received orders to i)roceed 
 to Canada. 
 
 He arrived at ^Montreal early in ^lay, remained 
 there uliout a month, and was afterwards .stationed at 
 Quebec, until ]March 1852, wlien he returned to Mon- 
 treal. In Februarv and March 1853, he made a tour 
 throuL;h the United States and portions t)f South 
 America, where he commenced a journal, which he 
 continued till within a few days of his death. 
 
 In 3 lay 1853 he went a second time to Quebec, 
 remaining there luitil September in the following j^ear; 
 and then returning to England. From November 1854 
 until August 1855 he was stationed, first in Ediid)m"gh, 
 and afterwards at Fort George, Inverness; and in 
 August received orders to repair to the Crimea. 
 
 Tliese dates render more intelligible the narrative 
 which follows. 
 
 His first impressions of America I consider suffi- 
 ciently graphic to be given at some length. 
 
 Extract from a Letter. 
 
 * Eevere House Hotel, Boston. I'nitod States, 
 April 2i>nd, 1850. 
 
 ' Thank God ! I am safely landed. I arrived at 
 Boston about twelve o'clock on Saturday. We had a 
 very pleasant termination to our voyage, though the day 
 after I wrote we got into a field of ice, which delayed 
 us four or five hours. The captain tried to get through 
 
 B 2 
 
CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 it, but found lie could not, and was forced to hack out 
 with considerable damage to his paddle-wheels, almost 
 all the floats of which were broken or injured. The 
 field was of vast extent, no blue water being- visible 
 beyond from the masthead. 
 
 ' The cut-water of the steamer ran right into a large 
 block, which we carried away with us for a short dis- 
 tance, until the officer on watch perceived that, although 
 there was a dead calm, we were only moving along at 
 three knots per hour, and took measures to dislodge our 
 travelling companion. We approached Halifax harbour 
 on Thursday night, and reached our wharf at about 
 twelve o'clock. The night was lovely ; water ([uite calm, 
 and moon and stars shining. The light, however, was 
 scarcely sufficient to give us a clear view of the town. 
 The harbour is the most dangerous one imaginable to 
 enter in foggy weather, as there is a large reef of rocks at 
 its mouth. Ships have sometimes to lay-to sevei'al days 
 near the entrance, as misty weather frequent!}' prevails. 
 
 ' I landed, however, with a party, and walked through 
 the town to the princijDal hotel, w^here we found the 
 accommodation wretched, and were disappointed of 
 the pleasure of drinking sherry coblers as tliere was 
 no ice. 
 
 * Nova Scotia is a wild, rugged country, covered w^ith 
 primeval forest, and dotted with small lakes. Halifax 
 is supplied with fresh water from a lake several hundred 
 feet above the city ; this elevated reservoir is most useful 
 in case of fires, as no pumping is required. Halifax 
 itself is a large town, Avith two harbours and some fine 
 
 liou 
 cap 
 I 
 havi 
 
 SiC, 
 
 I 
 I 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 to back out 
 eels, almost 
 ured. The 
 L'iijg visible 
 
 into a laro-e 
 I short dis- 
 it, although 
 ig along at 
 islodge our 
 ax harbour 
 at about 
 {uite calm, 
 wever, was 
 the town, 
 igiiiable to 
 of rocks at 
 vei-al days 
 y prevails, 
 d through 
 found the 
 lointed of 
 there was 
 
 ered with 
 Halifax 
 
 I hundred 
 
 ost useful 
 Halifax 
 
 :iome fine 
 
 It 
 
 }eabl( 
 
 an a^rree 
 isliiufr and shooting'. 
 
 ilitary station, as there is 
 
 nousG!^. 
 
 capital _, 
 
 I think the Americans have been mucli maligned, or 
 
 have nuich improved since tlie works of INIrs. Trolloj^e, 
 
 &c., have been written. 
 
 'I was very much pleased at the extreme civility with 
 
 which tlie commonest people answer any question you 
 may ask, tliough the equality which is supposed to 
 exist out here amuses me vastly. 
 
 ' I intended going round by Xew York, and therefore 
 wished most of mv luu-ufaoje to be forwarded to jNIon- 
 treal direct. I was introduced to the agent and car- 
 rier, who touched their hats, and shook hands ; and the 
 next morning one of them breakfasted at the same table 
 with me. 
 
 * On the morning of Saturday, April 20th, we came 
 in sight of the shores of America, and entered the 
 beautiful harbour of Boston. We had a lovely morning 
 for the termination of our troubles. The sun shone 
 brill iantl}^, sparkling on the water, which was scarcely 
 rippled by a light breeze, just sufficient to fill the white 
 sails of the beautiful and eleofant craft which was 
 cruising about around us and in the offing. 
 
 ' Sails are made here of Russian canvas, which is 
 finer and whiter than ours, but not so suitable for rough 
 weather. 
 
 * The steamers are ugly enough to look at, having 
 large cabins on deck. They go ahead, however, most 
 gallantly, doing sometimes nearly twenty miles an 
 hour ; but are more liable, generally speaking, to ex- 
 
CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 plo(l(-' tlian ours are. \Mi('n tliey race (which they do 
 a great deal on the Mississippi), tliey put weiglits on 
 the safety valve. 
 
 *Thc approaclies to the harbour are strongly fortified, 
 and I had occasion to admire an extremely pretty, re- 
 gular, little pentagonal fort, built according to Vaidjau's 
 system, on a small island. 
 
 * The lower parts and narrow streets of l^>oston have 
 much the appearance of a French city, and are dirty 
 and disagreeiible. 
 
 ' The best houses have most of them white doors 
 with the resident's name on a ])rass plate, and a glass 
 bell-handle on each side for servants and visitors, as in 
 England. They are kei)t beautifiuly clean and bright, 
 and have a pleasing and clieerful effect. 
 
 *Coloiu'ed panes of glass are introduced in the windows 
 in the most irregular manner, witli the view, I .should 
 imagine, of throwing a rich liglit on some particular 
 object or article of furniture. 
 
 ' The hotel I am staving- at is a new and very fine 
 one, beautifully fitted up in the French st3de ; but 
 though very bright and pleasing in appearance, without 
 that air of comfort which pervades an English re- 
 sidence. A thing which I foimd almost unbearable is 
 the high temperature at which tliey keep the liotel by 
 means of steam pipes. The thermometer stands be- 
 tween 65" and 70°, and the difference between the 
 temperature in and out of doors is most trying. 
 
 ' The great luxury out here is the Wenliam Lake 
 ice. Everything is iced. Ice on the butter, ice in the 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 ieh they do 
 wei-^'lit.s on 
 
 ^]y fortified, 
 prett}', re- 
 
 A'auljuii's 
 
 ostoii have 
 
 1 arc dirty 
 
 hito doors 
 lid a ghiss 
 iters, as in 
 ind l)right, 
 
 le Aviiidows 
 , I .'Iiould 
 particular 
 
 I very fine 
 ;tyle; but 
 e, without 
 igiisli re- 
 earable is 
 3 Iiotel by 
 taiids be- 
 iveen the 
 
 am Lake 
 ce in the 
 
 beer, wine, and water ; ice creams always for dinner, 
 and all kinds of ice drinks, the principal of which are 
 lemonade, mint jnlep, sherry cobler, and san^L,^aree. 
 The names of some of the drinks which you get at the 
 bar of every hotel or oyster saloon are most amusing. 
 A man told me he could make up 400 different kinds. 
 The principal are different kinds of punch, brandy 
 cocktail, brandy and gin smash, brandy skin, thunder 
 and lightning, gin sling, sherry cobler, S:c. Honvj 
 of them are made with pepper, and have correspond- 
 ingly hot names. 
 
 '8([uash, an immense yellow vegetable something 
 like a pumpkin in appearance, and eaten mashed, is 
 used for tarts, and as a vegetable. It tastes much like 
 a sweet turnip. 
 
 ' Sweet potato, a vegetable between a potato and 
 parsnip, is likewise eaten. It is yellow and dry. 
 
 'They roast their hams out here a great deal, and 
 eat them with champjjgne sauce. 
 
 ' Halibut is the principal fish in the States. It is of 
 enormous size, and like cod, but not considered so good. 
 
 ' The society at the ordinary is most mixed. Tliere 
 is very little conversation carried on during dinner ; the 
 Americans have no time for it. They generally dispatch 
 three courses in about twenty-five minutes, rarely take 
 wine, and rise abruptly, and the instant they have 
 finished w^alk off to their counting-houses, &c. 
 
 * The whole mode of life in an American hotel is 
 perfectly different to what it is in England. You take 
 all your meals in public, or pay extravagantly for the 
 
8' 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMKA 
 
 I 
 
 privilege of privacy. You get a very good dinner, l)ut 
 it is not Ji comfortable one to Knglislnnen. The whole 
 affair is so hurried that you have sciircely time to 
 swallow your food, and none for conversation. 
 
 ' The gentlemen and ladies each have tlieir own 
 dining-room and parlour (as ladies travel all over the 
 States alone, and with the greatest comfort, meeting 
 wherever they go with the greatest attention and 
 politeness). Gentlemen, however, who may be travel- 
 ling with ladies, dine with the ladies; and ^NFrs. Fin- 
 layson's company procured for me that privilege on 
 •Sunday, when I had an opportunity of Ijeholding the 
 Boston belles. Most of the women are pale and in- 
 teresting-looking. They are generally small, and have 
 rather slight figures. Some of them look like French 
 women ; and this resemblance is increased by their 
 dressing in the Parisian fashion, and wearing very 
 bright colours. 
 
 ' They dress very showily, and sometimes in shocking 
 taste. I saw a girl in a green dress, red shawl, and 
 yellow bonnet. 
 
 ' As for the men, they have all a marked look of 
 intelligence, keen, restless eyes, generally sharp features, 
 often adorned with a scraggy beard, sallow complexion, 
 and long hair. They dress singularly, often wearing 
 blue trousers. The most fashionable colour is, how- 
 ever, greenish-yellow. 
 
 ' Speculation and money seem the great objects of 
 life out here. Credit is great. Every little bank issues 
 more dollar and half-dollar notes than its capital. 
 
 to 
 
 prel 
 
 An 
 
 real 
 
 heij 
 
 tre 
 
 Th( 
 
 peai 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 fl inner, but 
 TJio whole 
 y time to 
 
 tl J oir own 
 1 over the 
 J nieeting 
 it ion and 
 1)0 travel- 
 ^Afrs. Pln- 
 vileg-e on 
 Ifling the 
 and in- 
 aud have 
 e French 
 hy their 
 ing very 
 
 shoekinir 
 ^wl, and 
 
 look of 
 features, 
 plexion, 
 wearinir 
 s, how- 
 
 * On Sunday I accompanied Mr. and Airs. Finhiysou 
 to church, and heard an excellent serniou on bigotry, 
 preached b}' a very intelligent-looking man. The 
 American litui'gy differs slightly from ours. They 
 read the Lord's Praver thus: "Our Father ^vho art in 
 heaven," &c. ; the same as ours to "forgive us our 
 trespasses as we forgive those who trespass against us." 
 They pray ft)r tlu^ President and Congress, do not re- 
 peat the Lord's Prayer so frequently as we do, omit 
 the short prayers at the end of the Litany, and the 
 Nica>an Creed at the end of the Communion. There 
 are several rather pretty churches in Boston, but the 
 most elegant-looking spire is made oi ivood. 
 
 'The Italian Opera, I fancied, had a very ecclesiastical 
 appearance ; and, to my astonishment, I learnt that on 
 Sundays it is used as a Baptist chapel ! ! and that this 
 practi^^e of double usefulness is not uncommon. How 
 shockino- this seems to an Englishman ! 
 
 ' Everything here is done on a go-a-head principle ; 
 the roads are shocking, but good enough to go-a-head 
 over. 
 
 * Telegraph wires cross the principal streets, and tall 
 unpainted crooked poles run along opposite some of 
 the best houses with the wires attached to them most 
 roughly ; but they answer the purj^oses of communica- 
 tion, and are most extensively employed in the States, 
 running between places where there are no railways. 
 
 # 
 
 * New Yorh. — The American railways are exactly 
 described by Dickens, in his " American Notes." The 
 
10 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 triivc'lliii<; is very clit'Up; I paid only five (loilar.s for 
 the jouiuey from Boston to New York, 224 miles. The 
 arnmij:oineiits for luu'<'ii<'e are excellent. 
 
 *Tliey give you a brass ticket with a uumher on it, 
 and attach a similar one to your luggage, which is con- 
 veyed to your hotel without any extra charge. 
 
 *The country between Boston and New York is very 
 
 hi 
 
 otru(l( 
 
 wild and uncultivated. Lar; 
 all directions, only covered occasionally hy a tliin coat- 
 ing of turf. This rocky ground is portioned off by 
 rough stone walls into small divisions, as if it were 
 valuable property. 
 
 ' We passed through many clean, bright-looking towns, 
 built of wooden houses painted white, with green out- 
 side blinds. 
 
 * Every little insignificant village boasts its three or 
 four places of worship, built principally of wood and 
 all small. 
 
 * The train barely stops at the small stations. It lets 
 off its steam as it approaches, and comes very nearly to 
 a halt; during which interval of slack speed, people 
 who wish to start or stop are supposed to get in and 
 out. 
 
 ' The carriages hold more than fifty people. Every 
 carriage has its stove, and a kind of lane between the 
 seats, where restlessly disposed individuals may pro- 
 menade. 
 
 * Trains pass over turnpike roads without the smallest 
 ceremony, but a warning is posted up to " look out for 
 the engine while the bell rings." 
 
 4 
 
 n<>i| 
 of *i 
 
 .-5 ■ 
 
 carl 
 we ' 
 tlul 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 11 
 
 lollars lor 
 Je.s. Tjie 
 
 't'l- on it, 
 'Ji is con- 
 
 ^<- is very 
 •tnidu in 
 nil cout- 
 I off by 
 
 it were 
 
 p; towns, 
 t^ea oiit- 
 
 tJiree or 
 3od and 
 
 It lets 
 
 early to 
 
 people 
 
 in and 
 
 Every 
 *en tlie 
 y pro- 
 
 (lallest 
 )ut for 
 
 'The country tliron^di tlie wiiolo journey is nioiiofo- 
 nous. r missed tlii* siniliuj^' fields, tlie shci-p, tlic cattle 
 of old Eu'-liind. Till! houses, too, stand on the roughest 
 l^Tound, and few of them have uny (,'ardens. 
 
 'When we uot to New York the en<dne left us: the 
 cars were separated ; four horses jittached to each ; and 
 we were '^vawn, still kccpinjj^ on trams, throuj^di one of 
 the o-reat avenues of the city. 
 
 'The ]]roadway nt Xew York is certainly a very fnio 
 street; but the houses are very nneijnal in size, and 
 conseciuently extremely dissimilar in appearance. 
 
 'The American i)rivate carriages are of the most eccen- 
 tric forms; many of them exceedingly light, the better 
 to "go-a-head" in. They have all good horses, and 
 indeed the commonest vehicles are drawn by excellent 
 cattle, all of which are in first-rate condition, and 
 much superior to our poor battered cab horses. They, 
 most of them, come from the Western States. The 
 hackney-coaches in New York are like private car- 
 riages, and verv comfortable. 
 
 ' The city has some exceedingly fine puhlic buildings ; 
 one, the Custom PEouse, built after the model of the 
 Parthenon at Athens. 
 
 *The City Hall is splendid, and built of white marble. 
 It has an immense bell on the top which tolls in case 
 of fire. These occur almost nightly ; and on the first 
 night of my arrival I had the opportunity of witness- 
 ing a very large one, which destroyed property to the 
 amount of nearly 80,000 dollars. 
 
 ' The fire brigade is composed of young volunteers. 
 
)a 
 
 CANADA AND THE CIIIMEA 
 
 Tlir service; is most anluous and liazardous, .'md tlic 
 exposure to iill kinds of weather very injurious to 
 hcMltli; l)ut it is popular, jis it procures exemption 
 from serving in tlie militia or on a jury. One of the 
 fireiiK'ii was killed at the tire I saw, hy fallin;^' throuL,di 
 a tnip-door. 
 
 *T}ie engines are preceded Ity a vehicle with tlie 
 hose attached to it, and a lari^e bell which rin<'s as it 
 moves alonjx. The nnnd)er of the emrine, on a red 
 lantern, is carried in front, and the carriages are drawn 
 by th(! firemen and volunteers. 
 
 ' I saw this morning, from the papers, that the crowd 
 and I liad an exceedingly narrow t^scape. Wt; liad all 
 been standing on the brink of a precipice, as the fire 
 was close to an immense spirit store, which escaped 
 ignition almost by a miracle, .and wduch, had tlu; flames 
 reached it, would have exploded with a force sufficient 
 to cause the destruction of all things animate and in- 
 animate in its vicinity. 
 
 ' How secure we feel on the brink of the stream 
 which may engulph lis ! 
 
 *New York is built with beautiful regularity, and 
 promises to be a gigantic place. Broad roads with 
 trees planted on each side (a common and beautiful 
 custom in the States) run along, at regular distances 
 from and parallel to each other, from north to south. 
 These are intersected by cross streets at right angles, 
 many of which extend right across Long Island from 
 shore to shore, and are almost as broad as the avenues. 
 Some of these latter are five or six miles long and 
 
 pell 
 
 l.ni 
 
 for' 
 
 are! 
 
 tiuf 
 
 on 
 
 looi 
 
 i 
 
 a 
 
 I ! 
 
IMP' AUCTION 
 
 IS 
 
 , .'hkI the 
 urioiis tn 
 'xciiiptidii 
 
 IK' of thi^ 
 
 ; through 
 
 with the 
 ings as it 
 >u !i red 
 re drawn 
 
 be crowd 
 e liud all 
 the fire 
 escaped 
 (! flames 
 ufficient 
 and in- 
 
 stream 
 
 y, and 
 Is with 
 aiitiful 
 stances 
 south, 
 'ingles, 
 from 
 onues. 
 g and 
 
 1 
 
 perfectly straiglit; they are crossed by more than 130 
 hroad roail,««, 
 
 *TiineoidyiH re<[uire(l to fdl up this gigantic jtlan 
 for a vast cify. As yet the avenui.'s and cross streets 
 arc lined '^ith hctDscH merely in the ik ighl)i»urliood of 
 the city; eisewliere the li(»li?ies are scattered. 
 
 *Irisiinien arc; the tools with which ,Ionathan cirrics 
 on his vast works. Their huts are the oidy wretched- 
 looking aitodes 1 have seen. 
 
 ' Everywhere there is chiauliness and comfort :d)out 
 the houses, and an air of prosperity, very different IVnm 
 the misery and strtiggling poverty of the nupthcr- 
 country. 
 
 ' "W'stenhiy T visited the (inn-nwood Cemetery in 
 Hrookiyn, iivv or six miles from New ^'ork, a lovely 
 ])lace, occupying nearly 2'>() acres of ground, and richly 
 wooded. 
 
 'Some of the monuments are in good ttistc, and 
 have touching and aj)propriate inscriptions. One of 
 them had simpl}" a group of forget-monot flcnvers 
 with the single word "Mother" underneath. 
 
 'This certainlv affected me, and carried niv thoULfhts 
 homo, which I shall he deligiited to see whenever my 
 wanderings cease. After all, there is no place like Old 
 EnLfland. 
 
 ' Th(! morning I left Xew York was inauspicious and 
 gloomy, so that I saw the TFudson to disadvantage. 
 AVe had light enough, however, to see the Palisade, a 
 famous line of rocks on the left bank, perpendicular, 
 and 300 feet high. They extend for some distance, and 
 
 I 
 
14 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ,1 
 
 aro crowned with trees, presentiuf^ a very romantic 
 appearance. The scenery at West Point (fifty-two 
 miles from New York) deliglited me. In summer, and 
 f.t sunset, it must be ex([uisite. The shores of the river 
 are very bohl, and composed of richly wooded hills ; and 
 the river just here makes a fine sweep, which has a 
 very beautiful effect. 
 
 'The ^Military College is conducted on somewhat 
 similar principles to the Academy at Woolwich, though 
 in some respects on a stricter plan. The cadets are 
 admitted from the age of seventeen, and generally get 
 their commissions before twenty-three. They are all 
 kej^t at the college four years, during which they have 
 only two months vacation. At the end of four years, if 
 able to pass the examination (which not more tlian one 
 third are) they graduate, and receive commissions, 
 haviufT choice according to merit. The Enu'ineers is 
 the highest service out here. They have a fi.st-rate 
 education, and are instructed in several branches not 
 essentially necessary to a military man. They have no 
 study during the summer months, (when West Point is 
 crowded with company) but live in tents, and are con- 
 stantly at drill, going through all the duties of a private 
 soldier. Their uniform is quiet and useful — grey, with 
 black stripe down the trowsers, and round brass buttons 
 on the coats, which have short tails, like our cavalry. 
 There is a grand-nephew of Napoleon studying here, 
 the grandson of Jerome, whose wife, JNIadame Buona- 
 parte, lives at l^altimore. He has a family-likeness to 
 the great EmjDeror, and is a clever fellow, and w'll 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 15 
 
 ly romantic 
 t (fifty-two 
 iimmer, and 
 of the river 
 d hills ; and 
 t'hich has a 
 
 I somewhat 
 ich, though 
 
 cadets are 
 ^nerally get 
 hey are all 
 1 they have 
 )ur years, if 
 re than one 
 )mmissions, 
 iigineers is 
 a fi. st-rate 
 ■anches not 
 ey have no 
 ^\st Point is 
 d are con- 
 )f a private 
 -grey, with 
 ^ss buttons 
 ir cavalry, 
 ying here, 
 le Buona- 
 likeness to 
 
 and w'll 
 
 i 
 
 prol)al)ly push his fortunes in France, when his educa- 
 tion is completed. 
 
 * There is a cemetery for the cadets, very beautifidly 
 situated on a high point near the river. It appears, 
 from the inscriptions, that it is customary when a cadet 
 dies, for his class to erect his monument. On another 
 part of the shore, amid a grove of trees, stands one to 
 the memory of Kosciusko, who I believe was of great 
 assistance to the American arm v.' 
 
16 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 clui 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 g simi 
 
 MOOSE HUNTING 
 
 A CANADIAN FIRE. 
 
 •N 
 
 ' Quoboc, April 1852. 
 
 ^"{"OW for the moose hunting. I wished very much 
 to have gone out lust winter, as several officers 
 of the garrison did, and returned successful ; hut my 
 hopes were blighted by my commanding officer refusing 
 me leave. 
 
 ' This year, when I got leave, I found some difficulty 
 in getting a companion. At last a Lieutenant O'Brien, 
 of the 54th Eegiment, offered himself, was accepted, 
 and the start arranged. 
 
 ' ]\Ioose are found on both shores of the St. Law- 
 rence, but are more numerous on the south than on 
 the north. They are seldom met with much to the 
 south of Quebec. They return year after year to the 
 same neighbourhood. Though shot down without 
 mercy both by the settlers and the Indians, the hunters 
 say that their numbers appear rather to increase than 
 diminish. They are probably wanderers which roam 
 free and unmolested through the immense pine forests 
 of North America. 
 
 ' The moose is identical with the elk. He is a large. 
 
 the}J 
 
I 
 
 MOOSE HUxNTING 
 
 17 
 
 Lpril 1852. 
 
 veiy much 
 ral officers 
 1 ; ])iit my 
 ir refusing 
 
 3 difficulty 
 
 t O'Brien, 
 
 accepted, 
 
 St. Law- 
 tlian on 
 eh to the 
 ear to the 
 without 
 e hunters 
 ease than 
 ich roam 
 ne forests 
 
 s a Large, 
 
 chunsy-looking animal, with very long, powerfid k^gs, 
 a large head, with a remarkable nose or mouffle, hirge 
 ears, a hump on the neck, a mane, and a long tuft of 
 hair under the chin ; his eye rather small, and without 
 the eloquence of the gazelle's ; his tail remarkable, and 
 similar in shape to a hare's. He has a cloven foot, 
 like the deer tribe, and sinks at each stride nearly to 
 the fviU depth of the snow. His colour is generally 
 a greyish brown ; the hair of his fur long, his antlers 
 corresponding to his size, but only procurable in sum- 
 mer, or at the very commencement of winter. His 
 skin is converted into mocassins, snow shoes, &c. His 
 hair is dyed and worked on bark, or cloth. In the 
 summer time moose are shot from the water. ]MaRy 
 are lost in this sport, as, if not killed by the first bullet, 
 they run away into the bush and die there. 
 
 * In the summer time they frequent the banks of 
 rivers, whither they repair to cool their limbs, escape 
 the mosquitoes, and feed off the roots and stems of a 
 small water lily, of which they are passionately fond. 
 
 * They will drive their heads and shoulders three or 
 four feet under water to secure this " bonne bouche." 
 
 ' The hunters who were to accompany us into the 
 bush lived at a settlement called East P>ampton, on 
 the River Etchman, about forty-two miles from Quebec. 
 They were Irishmen ; four brothers, fine-spirited, honest 
 fellows, perfectly at home in the woods, and accustomed 
 for years to the chase of the moose. They were su- 
 perior, in several points of view, to the Indians who 
 were in the habit of accompanying parties on these 
 
11 
 
 \\: 
 
 IS 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 liuntini*- expeditions, as they worked liarder and mon; 
 clieerfiilly, and were much more desirable as com- 
 panions. Their farms beintj^ covered witli snow, and a 
 dead letter, as it were, for so many montljs in the 
 year, they take to hunting every winter as an occupa- 
 tion, realising a very snug little sum by the sale of 
 moose skins, mouffles, &c., and from the liberality of 
 the gentlemen who may chance to re([uire their services 
 as hunters. 
 
 ' On the two days preceding our start Quebec was 
 visited by one of the heaviest snow storms that had 
 been witnessed even in that favoured city ; but on the 
 day we left all nature was at rest. The sun shone 
 brightly, and not a breath disturbed the surface of the 
 stately river as we crossed it in our canoe. 
 
 ' Accidents occasionally occur to canoes in crossing 
 the St. Lawrence in the winter, from their getting 
 jammed between the stationary ice on the borders of 
 the river and that which is being carried down with 
 immense force by the stream. A canoe, or boat, 
 getting between these opposing masses, is literally 
 tossed up in the air like a shuttlecock, and its living 
 contents scattered. We were entertained with an 
 agreeable description of an accident of this kind 
 while crossing. 
 
 ' We got a couple of sleighs at the landing-place 
 (Point Levi), and proceeded on our journey, over roads 
 rendered execrable by the recent fall of snow. 
 
 ' After travelling about eleven hours, we found our- 
 selves, at ten o'clock at night, in a small house, thirty- 
 
 six 1 
 and 
 M 
 
 ing 1 
 wear 
 ^tum 
 sett'u 
 next 
 of t 
 miles 
 
 .■1 
 
 .«-^ 
 
MOOSE HUNTING 
 
 19 
 
 r and more 
 le as com- 
 snow, and a 
 iths in the 
 an occiipa- 
 the sale of 
 iiberality of 
 leir services 
 
 Quebec was 
 
 s that had 
 
 hut on the 
 
 sun slione 
 
 'face of the 
 
 in crossinix 
 eir wttin<2- 
 
 borders of 
 down with 
 or boat, 
 is literal! j^ 
 1 its living 
 [ with an 
 
 this kind 
 
 iding'-place 
 over roads 
 
 ound our- 
 ise, tliirty- 
 
 j 
 
 six miles from our starting point, very mucli shaken 
 and very tired. 
 
 'Our road lav throuijh several neat, clean, and flourish- 
 ing French Canadhm villages; the country about them 
 wearing the appearance of cultivati(m, and cleared of 
 stumps (an indication of the length of time it had i)eeu 
 settled). We reached the shanty of our frishmen on the 
 next day. We were in a new country ; in the place 
 (if the comfort and cleanliness we had left but a few 
 miles behind us, were Irish dirt, Irish architecture, and 
 Irish p(jvertv. Our hunters' dwellin<»: was a rude, mi- 
 finished cottage, with three small windows, and a door 
 in front, kept shut during the winter; a deticient pane 
 supplied by some paper stuck to tlu; sash 1y a fork, 
 which, being called in recpiisition at dinner-time, as 
 ])art of the family plate, the fresh air of heaven was 
 permitted to enter, and chill the apartment unob- 
 structed. 
 
 ' <,)ne end of the principal apartment (and there were 
 but two, besides a kind of attic) was occupied, on our 
 arrivril, by five or six sheep with their interesting pro- 
 geny, who were too delicate to be exposed, at that cold 
 season, to the chilly atmosphere of a barn. 
 
 ' The place was dirty ; but the inhabitants formed to- 
 gether a group which pleased me. 
 
 ' Two of our hunters, fine, intelligent young fellows, 
 lived there with their mother — a mother of fourteen 
 children. The elder of the two was married, and his 
 family had evidently a prospect of being transformed, 
 ;it no distant period, from the singular to the plural 
 
 c 2 
 
so 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 : f 
 
 number. The wife was a young, and rather plain girl, 
 but her features were stamped with honest good feeling 
 and cheerfulness, so indispensable in the companion of 
 a poor man. Their only child, however, was spoiled. 
 
 'Our hunters made their preparations, during the 
 afternoon, for our start on the day following. At night 
 I slept on the floor ; O'Brien in a bed in the same room. 
 We breakfasted at daybreak, and made trac^ on our 
 snow-shoes about an hour afterwards. Snow-shoeing is 
 hard work when the snow is loose, as it was when we 
 started, and as it continued during the whole of the 
 time we were in the bush. When the surface of the 
 snow has been partially thawed by rain, or the heat of 
 the sun, and frozen again, a crust is formed, which is 
 scarcely broken by a snow-shoe, and over which you can 
 walk with ease and comfort. 
 
 ' Each of our four hunters drew a small Indian sleigh 
 (or " tarboggin ") after him, laden with provisions, 
 buffalo robes, &c. We took with us hard biscuit, flour, 
 split-peas, rice, onions, tea, sugar, anu brandy, with a 
 few pounds of pork. We speculated on soon obtaining 
 moose meat. 
 
 * The snow-shoeing was very heavy ; and we were 
 glad enough, after a fatiguing tramp of nine or ten 
 hours, to arrive at a spot suitable for the formation of 
 a camp. It was on the borders of the river Etchman. 
 
 The camp was formed thus : — a hole, about ten feet 
 by seven, was dug out with snow-shoes; two trees, 
 selected as supporters for the ridge-po^e of our roof, 
 were felled to within about seven f:ct of the ground; 
 
 the 
 of I 
 the 
 the 
 
 -I 
 
MOOSE HUNTING 
 
 21 
 
 ' i)l.-iin girl, 
 ood feelinfif 
 mpjinion of 
 ? spoiled, 
 diirinof the 
 At night 
 same room. 
 Clip on our 
 '^-shoeing is 
 is when we 
 lole of the 
 face of the 
 ;he heat of 
 d, which is 
 icli you can 
 
 iian sleigh 
 provisions, 
 cuit, flour, 
 dy, with a 
 obtaining 
 
 we were 
 tie or ten 
 mation of 
 tchman. 
 t ten feet 
 wo trees, 
 our roof, 
 
 ground ; 
 
 ^ 
 
 the rid^e-pole rested on these, and the roof was formed 
 of boughs, covered with green fir branches, the ends of 
 the boughs resting on the ridge-pole, and sticking into 
 the snow. 
 
 ' A fire, extending right across the hole, was lighted 
 at one end of it, and at first smoked horribly, almost 
 blinding us. Of course, with such rude implements as 
 snow-shoes, we coidd only partially clear the ground of 
 snow ; all discrepancies, however, were hidden by fir 
 branches, over which we spread our buffalo robes. We 
 slept, of course, with our clothes on. I wore a habi- 
 tan's " bonnet rouge," a thick red woollen night-cap, and 
 over this I drew the head of my blanket-coat. 
 
 * Thus, with a hard carpet-bag for a pillow, and a 
 blanket rolled round me, I lay down to repose, with the 
 clear sky as a canopy above my head, and the bright 
 moon shining full in front of me, with my head within 
 a few inches of the snow-wall of our cabane, and my 
 feet close to a blazing fire, and sometimes almost burnt 
 by it. I slept badly the first night ; the cold was intense, 
 and perhaps the strangeness of my position drove away 
 the drowsy god. Next morning, after a hurried meal, 
 we started again, shortly after seven o'clock, intending 
 to form our hunting camp two or three miles further on. 
 We crossed some moose tracks during our journey. Our 
 hunters left their packs and diverged: we followed, 
 hoping for sport ; but, after walking some miles, we 
 crossed the snow-shoe track of some Indians, who had 
 evidently anticipated us. In the woods, if a man dis- 
 covers, what is called, a moose-yard, or, in other words. 
 
 i 
 
■ .1 
 
 22 
 
 CANADA AND THE CIJIMEA 
 
 finds traces of moose, he has a riglit to hunt the moose 
 tliiis discovered, Jis long as tlie print of his snow-slioes is 
 visihle. This is a <j;eneral hxw in lnintin<x, and is gene- 
 rally respected. Occasionally, however, a dispute arises 
 as to the right of privity ; and onr hunters told us an 
 anecdote of an encounter they liad had with four 
 Indians bound for the vsame yard as they, and who, at 
 first, ass(n"ted their rights to the huntintr of it. Onr 
 men explained that they were the first discoverers; the 
 red men appearcnl satisfied. Jioth parties professed 
 feelings of mutual friendship, and loaded their guns. 
 At night they rested in a eabane, with a fire between 
 them, and each man's gun at his head, watching one 
 another, the Indians continually coming to the fire to 
 light tlieir pipes, and neitlier party sleeping a wink. 
 Each expected an attack from the other. Incidents of 
 this kind rarely occur, and the Irish and Indians are, 
 generally speaking, on good terms. After our first dis- 
 appointment, we continued our march three or four 
 miles further, and leaving two men in camp, O'Brien 
 and myself started off, in different directions, with the 
 other two. We all returned unsuccessful in the even- 
 ing ; trucks of moose had, indeed, been discovered, but 
 near them, likewise, had been found the foot-prints of 
 our rivals the Indians. Our hunters were annoyed. 
 "We had lost," they said, " through those infernal rascals, 
 six or seven moose. The Indians had never hunted on 
 those grounds before : they had anticipated them merely 
 to spite them, and to prevent a repetition of the preced- 
 ing year's success." They did not, however, at all de- 
 
 bt 
 wit 
 
 cai 
 
 UK 
 
MOOSE HUNTING 
 
 S3 
 
 the moose 
 )W-shoes is 
 1(1 is gene- 
 )iite arises 
 old lis ail 
 with four 
 1(1 who, at 
 ■ it. Our 
 'rers; the 
 
 professed 
 leir guns, 
 e between 
 ?}iing one 
 he tire to 
 j; a wink, 
 cidents of 
 dians are, 
 • first dis- 
 t or four 
 ', O'Brien 
 
 with the 
 the even- 
 ered, })nt 
 ■prints of 
 annoyed, 
 il rascals, 
 unted on 
 n merely 
 s preced- 
 it all de- 
 
 spair, liiit only regretted the additional time and trouble 
 necessary for the accomplishment of tJieir object. 
 
 ' Xext morning, directly after our rude r('[)ast had 
 been completed, I started with my man, and ( )'lb-ien 
 with liis; the other two were left behind to tend tho 
 cainp, prepare pea-soup for dinner, and look out for 
 moose-yards. 
 
 'We had a hard day's walk. Our want of success 
 made our hunters energetic; they were dciermined to 
 find moose. We came continually on frosh tracks, only 
 to ])e as continually disappointed by finding close beside 
 them the tracks of tlie Indians, who seemed to haunt 
 us like a shadow. 
 
 'We started from the clearings on Wednesday. This 
 was Friday, our third night in the bush. Just })efore 
 our return to camp we found a moose-yard about Hve 
 or six miles from our w^oody mansion. Our hunters 
 were full of conjectures as to whether it had shared 
 the fate of the other discoveries, and had been already 
 hunted ; it was too late then to ascertain this. AVe 
 resolved to return there the next day. We did so, and 
 were successful. We killed between us three moose, 
 a cow and two calves. They gave us a pretty sharp 
 run. 
 
 ' The one I shot was a young bull. When I got up 
 to him he was standing, panting and exhausted, with the 
 snow up to his chest ; he was a small moose, not more 
 than five feet six inches at the shoulder, but still a fine 
 animal. 
 
 ' After he was despatched we heard shots close to 
 
94 
 
 CANADA AM) THE CRIMF-A 
 
 -, t 
 
 US, hurried on, and found another moose at l)ay, and 
 wounded, with the dogH })arkin<jf at him. I fired, and 
 hit liim in tlie shoulder; but my charj^e of powder 
 was not lar^e enough, and still he lived. O'Brien 
 (who was not so active on snow shoes as myself) came 
 up and shot him through the head. He dropped 
 •without a groan. The slioulder, and behind the ear, 
 are the two most vital points. 
 
 M)'Er;en killed a large cow with one bullet just 
 behind the ear. He was a very good shot, and had 
 had a great deal of practice, wild-boar hunting, in the 
 West Indies. 
 
 ' The cow was a huge beast, upwards of seven feet 
 at the shoulder. 
 
 ' Immediately after the moose were shot the hunters 
 proceeded to skin them, and cut off their mouffles, 
 tongues, and mocassins. They likewise cut out the 
 kidneys, and a few steaks, leaving the mangled car- 
 cases in the snow. 
 
 ' The poor settlers dravv uway a great deal of moose 
 meat thus abandoned, for their use during the winter. 
 The Indians, after they have killed a moose, allow 
 the settlers to have all the rest of the carcase for their 
 trouble in drawing out the hind quarters, which are 
 sold at the rate of fourpence a pound at Quebec ; and, 
 if kept long enough, are very good eating. We got 
 back late, and tired. However, our supper of moose 
 kidneys fried with onions was excellent. 
 
 * Next day being Sunday I resolved to stay in camp ; 
 and my toes were so very sore from the snow-shoe 
 
 have 
 The 
 
 
MOOSE HUNTING 
 
 25 
 
 lUet just 
 and had 
 g, in the 
 
 vcn feet 
 
 hunters 
 Tiouffles, 
 
 out the 
 led car- 
 
 f moose 
 
 winter. 
 
 allow 
 
 "or tlieir 
 
 ich are 
 
 c ; and, 
 
 We got 
 
 moose 
 
 camp; 
 )w-shoe 
 
 straps, that whatever the day had ])een J ^Urmld sc. <!e1y 
 liave been able to walk. O'Brien remained with 'uc. 
 The men went out to look for a yard, and found one. 
 
 ' We started after it the next morning, wlien I 
 found that, in addition to my sore toes, I was sufft-ring 
 acutely from luml)ago. 
 
 * I sliall not readily forget the pain and fatigues of 
 this day. We were six hours in getting up to our 
 moose. I was mentally wishing them at the bottom 
 of the sea, during this interval. When we got up 
 to them I forgot my troubles. 
 
 * I killed a moose to-day by a shot just above tlie 
 eye. A dog was holding on by his nose all the time, 
 and the moose striking fiercely at him with his fore 
 feet. It is very dangerous to get within ten or fifteen 
 yards of one, however severely wounded he may be. 
 He collects all his strength and runs at you, and if he 
 gets up to you he will soon put an end to your life 
 with a few strokes of his fore feet. 
 
 * One of our hunters, who was carrying my gun in 
 front, shot a large cow, which, being the case, she was 
 considered my property, and I had her two fore feet 
 taken off, and am now getting them worked by the 
 Indians. 
 
 * We reached our camp sometime after sunset, nearly 
 dead ])eat. My lumbago, however, was gone. We 
 were satisfied with our success, and resolved to make 
 tracks for the clearings. On the next day (Tuesday), 
 when we awoke at sunrise, we found snow falling, and 
 we made a journey in this one day of nearly eighteen 
 
LT. 
 
 CANArtA AM* Tin; ( UIMKA 
 
 ' f 
 
 nil 
 
 I) 
 
 Ics 111 
 
 rouL:ii vcrv li« mvv ( 
 
 Irift: 
 
 ( hir liuntrrs were 
 
 hiinrrd t(» leave tlieir t.'irl)(i^'<:fiiis, witli most of tho 
 traps, alxMil four miles from the (•learilli,^ us they were 
 
 !ifra,i(l of (larkiM 
 
 .1 
 
 le t( 
 
 ess eomiiiL^ on, and <tiir heiiiL;' iinaiue to 
 fhid the hlazed line. In the hush we were in the haliit 
 
 of liiuliiiiT the tinu 
 
 hv <.l 
 
 )servinir 
 
 the 1 
 
 (11 rill'' of the 
 
 sun with ii [)ocket compass. On a clear day, witli u 
 compass, a man uccnstomed to the W(m)(1s is never 
 afraid (»f losing liiinself. We reached (^uehec on 
 Thursday.'' 
 
 A CiUKuliait Fur. 
 
 'Mnntrcal, .Inly lltli, lsr)L>, 
 
 'More than 1200 houses have been eonsumed by tire 
 in this city, during Thursday and Friday last. My 
 house escaped by a miracle, bnt my sleighs were both 
 ])urnt, and I have lost several tilings in moving my 
 furniture, tte., to the wharf. 
 
 'The fire broke out about nine crdock on Thursday 
 morning, in one of the suburbs of the town. The 
 water-pipes are being changed for larger ones, and 
 during the cliange it was found necessary almost to 
 empty the reservoir which supplies Montreal with 
 water. Consecpiently, scarcely any means were avail- 
 able for stopping the flames. ]Most of the houses in 
 the suburbs, and nearly all the outbuildings attached 
 to large houses in the hea."^- of the city, are of wood, 
 with wooden roofs. Tlie weather had been very hot for 
 several days previous to the tire, and the thermometer 
 during Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, stood at 96° in 
 
 1 
 
 til 
 I" 
 
 ill' 
 
 9 
 
 U () 
 
 ■ 
 
 k 
 
 1 
 
 III 
 
 1 
 
 nl 
 
 1 
 
 iii\ 
 
 'jak 
 
 K. 
 
 i 
 
 
 a_ 
 
A CANAr)IAN I NIK 
 
 S7 
 
 fcrs were 
 
 st of till! 
 
 tlicy were 
 iitinltic to 
 
 the lialiit 
 i^ of the 
 iv, with a 
 
 is iH'V(!r 
 U('l)ec on 
 
 1(1 l)y fin,' 
 ast. Mv 
 fcvG both 
 )viiiLr mv 
 
 Tliursday 
 vn. The 
 nes, and 
 linost to 
 L'al with 
 re avail- 
 louses in 
 attached 
 of wood, 
 y hot for 
 mometer 
 at 06° in 
 
 til ^liadf. It may he imii^^iiicd how dreadfully over- 
 pi >\Vfrin;; this must have heeu, i-ombiiicd with the 
 iiif*^iise hejif of a ra|;in^' lire, and liow readily the dry 
 wooden roofs eau;,dit tht* flames. 
 
 * The tir( sjjrcad with tearful rji[)idity, and soon 
 iii» . need one of the lust stn-ets, eomposi'd priiu'ipally 
 of liandsomc private residences. Here lived several of 
 my friends, and my commandinj^ officer, Colonel Dixon, 
 R.K., who w;is ahsent at (Quebec on duty. 
 
 ' WIk'U I arrived at the scene of action, \ took a 
 oetiend survey of the fire, .md reported to tlu^ fomman- 
 d.int of the (iarrison what 1 thou^dit ought to be done 
 to arrest its progress. Owing, however, to the universal 
 confusion, and the wiint of water, nothing 1 suggested 
 Wrus (lone. Finding that my professional services were 
 useless, J applied myself to rescue property belonging 
 to my friends; and, after cutting down and securing a 
 large number of paintings in one house, I rushed to 
 my coloners, and, assisted by soldiers of the Artillery 
 and 2()th Kegiment, sncceeded in saving greater part of 
 his furniture before the flames reached them. 
 
 *■ By this time my eyes were almost closed with dust, 
 and I was nearly exhausted with heat and fatigue; so 1 
 left the tire for a few nunutes, to procure some ))randy 
 and soda-water. On my return I found the Hames 
 had considerably increased, and I was sent for by the 
 officer commanding the troops, introduced to the chief 
 engineer of the city, and directed to blow up any 
 houses he might indicate. It is perfectly useless to 
 blow up wooden houses, as they offer scarcely any 
 
8S 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 'i ! 
 
 resistance to the gnnpowder, and the scattered frag- 
 ments, instead of deadening, only serve to increase the 
 fury of the flames. I, however, made an effort to 
 arrest the fire ])y blowing up a large brick house with 
 ninety pounds of gunpowder. I was assisted by tlie 
 artillery in placing the charge, wliich, on account ()f 
 the near proximity to the flames, and a quantity of 
 straw which was lying scattered about, was a service of 
 some danger. 
 
 ' The bugles sounded the alarm, and the majority of 
 the spectators withdrew ; however, notwithstanding all 
 the bugles, and the loud shouts of the b3'standers, one 
 man (whom, I conjecture, must have been half-drunk), 
 persevered in maintaining his position on a log of 
 wood close to the doomed house. Nothing woidd in- 
 duce him to move; and I was at last compelled, at my 
 o^vn risk, to run foj'ward, and carry him off in my arms, 
 amidst the cheers of the mob. 
 
 ' The explosion brought the house completely to the 
 ground, but, owing to the number of wooden buildings 
 on all sides, was not sufficient to arrest the fire. I rode 
 four different horses during the day, and was galloping 
 about for several hours, with my clothes torn, in all 
 directions. 
 
 ' The soldiers, both of the Artillery and 20th Regiment, 
 exerted themselves in the most praiseworthy manner, 
 and afforded a most striking contrast to the apathy 
 and brutality of the mob. The Roman Catholic arch- 
 bishop's palace was involved in the general destruction, 
 amid the despairing prayers of the pri'^sts ; one of whom, 
 
A CANADIAN FIRE 
 
 29 
 
 ered frajr- 
 crease the 
 effort to 
 louse with 
 :■(! hy tlie 
 iccoimt of 
 lantity of 
 service of 
 
 majority of 
 iiding all 
 iders, one 
 f-drunk), 
 a log of 
 voidd in- 
 id, at my 
 my arms, 
 
 'ly to the 
 buildinjxs 
 . I rode 
 galloping 
 ii, in all 
 
 egiment, 
 manner, 
 J apathy 
 lie areh- 
 ("ruction, 
 f whom, 
 
 it is said, threw himself across the road, with a crucifix in 
 liis liand, and prayed God to permit the fire to proceed 
 no further. At last about haif-past-five, or six o'clock, 
 the flames appeared completel}' subdued. I returned 
 home and changed my clothes, and was issuing from 
 my house, at about half-past-seven, when I met the 
 wife and daughter of my colonel, whom I accompanied 
 to the Artillery stores, to assist them in recovering some 
 of their property which had been placed there during 
 the nun-ning. We had just loaded a cart with some of 
 their effects, when we observed a dense column of 
 smoke issuing up behind Dalhousie Stjuare (near which 
 I reside), and where were situated our mess and offices. 
 Mrs. Dixon (who is an old huly), was exceedingly 
 nervous, and much alarmed when she perceived this 
 second fire breaking out. I used all my effoits to 
 soothe her, and accompanied her and her daughter to 
 their hotel. Just before w^e arrived, several horses 
 running wnldly, without bridles, came down the street. 
 I knew in a moment, that the stables belomjinir to the 
 officers of the 20th Regiment were on fire, and was 
 very anxious to get to my own house. The old lady, 
 however, was so frightened, that I did not like to leave 
 her, and remained mitil the cab with her things 
 arrived, and then returned to get a fresh load. Leaving 
 the cab at the store with her servant, I ran to my <iwn 
 house, where I found my servant had packed \\\) most 
 of my things, and my groom had removed my carriage 
 and horses into the street. All the out-buildings at the 
 back of my house are of wood, and as dry as tinder ; the 
 
30 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ' 1 1 
 
 ^1 
 
 MM! 
 
 I '>■ 
 
 'I 
 
 ii M 
 
 wind, however, was carrying the fire steadily away from 
 them. 
 
 ' Al.MUit eight or nine men came and volunteered their 
 services to remove my j^roperty; and a friend kept 
 guard over my things as tliey were moved to the rear 
 of my house. To him, indeed, I feel myself, in a great 
 degree, indebtf^l for their preservation. 
 
 ' I found my groom with my carringe and horses, not 
 knowing what to do, and unable to manage tlie horses 
 by himself. I took them from him ; and he, assisted 
 by a 20th private, drew my carriage after me to an hotel 
 in the neighbourhood. 
 
 ' The fire was, at this time, to the highest degree grand 
 and terrific. An enormous hotel, the largest in the city, 
 was burning. The flames consumed the vast building, 
 and no less than nine or ten stone houses, iu less than two 
 hours. The fire was communicated from these build • 
 ings to my side of the street ; and it was only from the 
 fact, that my house is situated at the back of the barracks 
 occupied by tlie 20th Regiment, and, consequently, that 
 every exertion was made by the troops to prevent the 
 fire spreading in that direction, that it was preserved. 
 While eno-aged in removing mv tliinLi's, I heard an ex- 
 plosion; and, leaving m}^ servants to look after my 
 property, I hastened to the fire, to ascertained whether 
 my services might not be required to blow up houses, 
 ttc. There were only three engineer officers present at 
 the fire, four being absent on leave or duty. I repaired 
 to the head of the fire, and remained there, being 
 ijraduallv driven backwards by the flames, for several 
 
 'I 
 
 1 in th 
 
 2 great 
 I and 
 
 fouiul 
 and ii 
 I tion, 
 
 I 'y 
 
 are i 
 
 . i 
 
A CANADIAN FIRE 
 
 31 
 
 way from 
 
 sred their 
 end kept 
 t the rear 
 
 11 a great 
 
 orses, not 
 :he horses 
 , assisted 
 J an hotel 
 
 ree grand 
 
 n the city, 
 
 huilding, 
 
 ^ than two 
 
 se build • 
 
 from the 
 
 barracks 
 ntlv, that 
 3vent the 
 )reserved. 
 rd an ex- 
 after my 
 
 whether 
 p houses, 
 ^resent at 
 
 repaired 
 •e, beinu' 
 ►r several 
 
 >iours. I was the only officer present at this spot, all 
 the otliors being near tlie barracks, engaired in their 
 ])r('servation. The corporation of the city begged me 
 to blow up ;uiy house whose destruction 1 thought 
 would retard tlie fire ; and they brought up a tpiantity 
 (if gunpowder, with some wet blankets (])y iny desire), 
 iu a canoe. I blew up two houses evidently doomed 
 for destruction; but, there being no water at hand, and 
 tlie wooden buildings souk; distance in advance of 
 the burning houses being in Hames, the attempt w;is 
 futile. 
 
 ' I found, vfhen I approached my house at two o'clock 
 in the morning, tliat it was still in existence thouuh in 
 great danger. I obtained a fevered sleep of an liour 
 and a half, and then rose and went to the wharf. I 
 found my servants there, looking very paleimd fagged, 
 and all around furniture and baggage of every descrip- 
 tion, and groups of poor men and women. 
 
 ' More than 1(),()()0 persons have been burnt out, and 
 are now livin^x in the tields, or under tents and sheds 
 supplied to t'lem by Government. 
 
 ' What makes this terrible calamity the more appalling 
 is, that there can hardly be any doid)t that it was mainly 
 owiufj to incendiaries. Even the night after the fire, 
 people were arrested in the act of setting fire to 
 build in<)fs. 
 
 'The head-quarter Engineer Office, the District Office, 
 and the General Office, have been burnt. Almost all 
 our plans {some most valuable), papers, and records 
 destroyed. The flames spread with such rapidity, that 
 
32 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 it was scarcely possible to save anything from these 
 buildings. 
 
 ' I shall never forget this fire, or the fatigue, anxiety, 
 and exertion, I underwent. I may well thank God for 
 the safety of my own life and of most of my property.' 
 
 aiv\ 
 
 it i = 
 
 I 
 
 
 i ! 
 
 I ' i 
 
)m these 
 
 
 33 
 
 anxiety, 
 : God for 
 opevty.' 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 TRAVELLING IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 I 
 
 'Montreal, Feb. lOtli, 185,3. 
 
 LEFT Montreal to commence what Madame de 
 Stael calls " one of the saddest plousures in life " to- 
 day. My journey had a gloomy commencement, as I 
 was late for the train, and obliued to wait four hours 
 and a half in an unfurnished and melancholy waiting- 
 room till another started. I employed the time in 
 reading a couple of articles in the " Westminster Re- 
 view," and was commencing another on the eternal sub- 
 ject of " American Slavery," and " Uncle Tom's Cabin," 
 when the " bus " from Montreal bro\ight over its party 
 of passengers going by the train, whicli I was certainly 
 not this time too late for. Among the travellers I 
 recognised Lect and Dewar in company with some 
 American ladies, whom they -were escorting to the 
 terminus. Lect introduced me to his fair friends. 
 
 'The party (with whom I travelled for the greater 
 part of this day and the next) consisted of an old lady 
 and gentleman and three girls. They were nativevS 
 of Boston, and thither bound. The old lady I found 
 afterwards in conversation to be a well-read, observant. 
 
m 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ! ;'ii 
 
 t : 
 
 acute, and energetic woman, — a type of a large class in 
 the States. She talked to nie of her own country, and 
 of Canada ; of the energy and rapid development of the 
 one, and of the torpor and apparently self-satisfied stag- 
 nation of the other ; but was much pleased with both 
 Montreal and (Quebec: she was ac(|uainted with some 
 of the leading men in the States, and had heard and 
 admired some of its most eloquent orators. She spoke 
 of Mr. Ingersoll, the new American minister, and 
 here betrayed that feeling of reverence for wealth 
 which is so distinctive a trait in the Yankee character. 
 She thought Mr. Ingersoll woidd not be able to main- 
 tain his position with such eclat as his predecessor Mr. 
 Lawrence, as he was not nearly so rich a man. T 
 endeavoured to convince her to the contrary, by assur- 
 ing her that, though money had its due influence in 
 England, yet wealth and position were by no means 
 synonymous terms. 
 
 ' We reached Rouses Point at a (|uarter-past six, at 
 half-past seven were entertained with a meagre and 
 unsatisfactory supper, and retired to rest (at least J 
 did) very soon after, having visions before me of a 
 journey of eighteen hours on the morrow. 
 
 ^ Friday, Feb. llth. — Rose at a little after 5 a.m., 
 after passing a restless night, principally owing to a 
 propensity for walking up and down the passage out- 
 side my room, developed by an individual in thick 
 boots. Ate some tough beefsteak and swallowed a cup 
 of weak tea, and then resumed my journey. My new 
 friends travelled with me as far as Windsor ; and by the 
 
 » ^J^' 
 
AGREEABLE TRAVELLING COMPANIONS 
 
 .35 
 
 ! class in 
 itry, and 
 it of the 
 ied stuy;- 
 ith both 
 ith some 
 3ard and 
 he spoke 
 iter, and 
 r wealth 
 iharacter. 
 to main- 
 essor Mr. 
 man. 1 
 by assur- 
 iience in 
 10 means 
 
 ist six, at 
 
 agre and 
 
 Lt least I 
 
 me of a 
 
 er 5 A.M., 
 ^in*)- to a 
 Bsage oiit- 
 
 in thick 
 A'ed a cup 
 
 My new 
 ,nd by the 
 
 time we arrived there, I found mvself talkins? to tlie 
 vomitr ladies with the freedom of a friend, instead of 
 the reserve of one day's accpiaintance. They cliatttjd 
 away very f;.imiliarly and cheerfidly, and shook liands 
 (piite affectionately when we parted, ho[)ing I would 
 come and see them if ever at Boston. They were in- 
 telligent girls, and had apparently read most of the 
 current publications of tlie day. I was amused at the 
 jividity with wiiioh one of them devoured a newspaper, — 
 not so generally appreciated by th(» fair sex at home, — 
 and at tlie eager manner with which they studied, in 
 the pages of a magazine, a picture of a new, and in my 
 opinion hideous, fashion in dress. They did not pos- 
 sess that refinement which is so characteristic of an 
 English lady, and their manners would certainly not 
 have been considered perfection at home ; but, spite of 
 tills they were " cute," kind-hearted, and sociable, and, 
 at all events, pleasant travelling companions for a soli- 
 tary l)achelor, who is delighted at the opportunity of 
 occasionally escaping the melancholy and solitary com- 
 panionship of his own thoughts. 
 
 * The Vermont central railroad, by which I travelled 
 from Montreal to New York, traverses here and there 
 some pretty bits of scenery, and skirts for some dis- 
 tance the waters of the Connecticut river. The green 
 mountains are the most striking natural object on the 
 route. The traveller is generally doomed to monotony 
 iu journeying through the States. Flat tracks of par- 
 tially cleared wild land form the staple of the scenery. 
 The thriving appearance of all the towns and villages, 
 
 D 2 
 
ae 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 however, on the route, and the observations you hoar 
 made by travellers concerning their sudden rise; and 
 rapid growth, lead you, without any violent stretcli of 
 the imagination, to depict to yourself the altered aspect 
 of wild and barren nature, in a few years, beneath the 
 genial influences of energy and industry. The desolate 
 swamps, disfigured by blackening stumps, will then 
 teem with a golden harvest, or be transformed into 
 grassy meads, and all nature around will " burst forth 
 into singing and gladness." Railway travelling for 
 many hours together is very tedious and fatiguing. I 
 certainly had a dose of it to-day. After a bud night's 
 rest, I travelled from six in the morning till twelve at 
 night, arriving sleepy and weary at the Metropolitan 
 Hotel, New York, about the latter hour. Here, in- 
 stead of turning into a comfortable bed, I was obliged 
 to be content with a shake-down in a tiny cot in Ji 
 small bath-room, every room in the hotel being en- 
 gaged, and several sitting-rooms having already been 
 converted into public bed-rooms. My bed was so 
 placed (and almost necessarily so from the size of the 
 apartment), that were I to have had troubled dreams 
 and roll over its side, I should inevitably have found 
 myself in a dry but cold bath. I altered things as 
 well as I could ; and consoling myself with the reflection 
 that at sea the rooms were still smaller than the one I 
 was in, gently sunk into the arms of " Murphy.^'' 
 
 ^ Feb. \2th. — I availed myself of my position this 
 morning to have a most luxurious cold and shower 
 bath, indulging in both at the same time. After 
 
 -f. 
 
 sidei 
 
BROADWAY NEW YORK 
 
 87 
 
 u hoar 
 so and 
 .^tcli of 
 aspoct 
 ith the 
 lesolate 
 II then 
 lmI into 
 St forth 
 ing for 
 ling. I 
 , night's 
 ,velve at 
 op<jlitan 
 ore, in- 
 obliged 
 ot in a 
 ■ing en- 
 dv been 
 Avas so 
 
 of the 
 (U-eams 
 
 ^e found 
 hings as 
 •eflection 
 he one I 
 
 tion this 
 
 1 shower 
 After 
 
 various exorcises of ingenuity witli regard to sp,'vo<^, I 
 managed to clotlio myself, and walked downstairs to 
 breakfast. "The Metropolitan Hotel" (which T was 
 now able to examine a little more minutely and dosidy 
 than I had been the evening before) is one of those 
 gigantic palaces with which it delighteth the Yankees 
 to adorn their great Broadway. 
 
 ' Its dimensions, and the number of people it will 
 accommodate, I mean to ascertain before leaving. It 
 has ])een built within the last two or three years, and 
 was not in existence, or probably even not thought of, 
 when I was at New York in tlie spring of 1850. Then 
 the Astor House was the great hotel ; — novj it is con- 
 sidered, by the sid(^ of its young and gigantic rival, 
 quite an ordinary biulding. 
 
 * After breakfast I walked down the far-famed 
 Broadway to Wall Street, armed with a letter of credit 
 for 500 dollars. The day was lovely, and as warm as 
 April in England ; everything looked gay and smiling, 
 and I felt my spirits rising under the genial influence 
 of new scenes and a new climate. I got my draft 
 cashed, took a hack-carriage, and drove to houses near 
 Broadway, to the occupants of which I had brought 
 letters from Judge Day of Montreal. After driving 
 about for an hour and a half at a snail's pace (the 
 carriage being taken by the hour), I paid two dollars 
 for the pleasure of being bored, and proceeded to 
 climb the staircase leading to the summit of Trinity 
 Church, Broadway, the finest in New York. An ascent 
 of 308 steps brought me almost to the top of the spire 
 
88 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 :. I 
 
 but before reachinji^ this enviable elevation I had en- 
 joyed the inaj^nificent view coinniauded ))y the Church 
 from a hunibh'r altitude. The vast city, teeming with 
 life, bustle, and activity, lay at my feet. The beautiful 
 harbour, with its coasts reflected in the calm blue 
 w^ater, bathed in sunshine, encircled it. Tlie white 
 sails of numerous elegant craft glittered in tlie bright 
 and joyous light, and gave character and animation to 
 the tranquil expanse over which they glided. Men 
 widking below in the busy Jiroadway seemed like 
 moving specks on the earth's surface. There they 
 were toiling for business or for pleasiu'e, and playing 
 their great and little parts on the stage of life ! New 
 York, embraced in a coup (Vui'd from this point, 
 impresses the spectat jr by the breadth and grandeur 
 of its streets, and by the magnitude of some of its 
 blocks of buildings, as well as with the regularity v.'ith 
 which it has been laid out. When the plan for this 
 vast city is filled up (and who can tell, with the energy 
 of its populace, v;]ien that may be), it will assiu-edl} 
 be worthy of being called the capital of the world. 
 
 * The interior of Trinity Church (in which I was 
 not sorry to find myself after the fatigue of climbing) 
 is rich and handsome, but rather somlu-e. The style 
 is Oothic, and the building itself is, I believe, con- 
 sidered the best specimen of that style in America. It 
 has a very rich stained glass window over the altar, 
 with figures of our Saviour and four Evangelists in- 
 troduced. Over the central figure, on two glass com- 
 partments, are the significant Greek letters, Alpha and 
 
 k V 
 
AMEHICAN LAPIES 
 
 30 
 
 lad en- 
 Chiircli 
 iLT witli 
 niutiful 
 :n blue 
 :' white 
 ■?. ])riglit 
 ation to 
 ]Meii 
 ed like 
 re they 
 playing 
 ! New 
 ^ point, 
 •raudeur 
 e of its 
 •ity with 
 for this 
 e ener<]^y 
 issiiredly 
 Id. 
 
 ;h I was 
 limbing) 
 "'he style 
 ve, con- 
 rica. It 
 he altar, 
 elists in- 
 hiss com- 
 Ipha and 
 
 Omega. The Hisliop of New York usually officiates 
 in this Church ; and I was told that lie would preach 
 on Sunday, and hold a contirniation afterwards. The 
 (-hurch is surrounded by a small burial-ground, filled 
 with plain, unpretending monuments. A new one, of 
 rather more ambitious character than the rest, is 
 erected to Captain l^awrence, who fell in the cele- 
 brated action between the Ches.apeake and the Shannon. 
 An iuscriptictn in suitable and dignified language 
 records the virtues of the deceased, and liis claims on 
 the gratitude of his countrymen. 
 
 ' Leaving the Chiu'ch, well satisfied with my visit, I 
 retraced my steps towards my hotel, my attention en- 
 grossed by the gay crowd who, in their carriages and 
 on foot, were out, breathing the pure delightful air and 
 enjoying the fine weather. Many an expensive carriage 
 and handsome showy pair of horses passed me, and 
 occasionally a pretty face might be seen peeping from 
 a window. I say occjisionally, for the New York ladies 
 cannot, as a class, lay claim to great beauty. There is 
 a strong family-likeness between them all, and a pecu- 
 liar and characteristic, though not an agreeable, expres- 
 sion in every face. Slight, fragile, and delicate figures, 
 with feet and ankles which nught be envied, even in 
 China, — faces filled with an eager, restless, though 
 clever and intelligent, expression, — countenances unin- 
 fluenced and unabashed by the gaze of a stranger (from 
 the American habit of living so much in public), — a 
 costume renunding one of the outre Paris fashions, — 
 make a tout ensemble not altogether disagreeable or 
 
40 
 
 CANADA AND TIIK ClSlMnA 
 
 Hi 
 
 I 1 
 
 witlifnit iDorits, ])ut wliicli nn Kiiglislniiiiii finds vory 
 iMt'erior to that (•oiMl)iiiiiti(>ii of" rnvr and Ix'atitiful 
 traits iind <{iialili(!s which make and characterise one 
 of his fair conntryvvonien. Those wiio hav<; strolled 
 down Regent Stieet and down liroadwiiy will at once 
 see the contrast, and the advantage of it in favour of 
 Old England. " CV7//7U "ium (Diuiiurn muitint qui 
 trans mare currunf.'^ I think I shall always be of 
 the same opinion on this point. 
 
 ' I visitedon luy way hack to the ]VI(;tropolitan" Hisley's 
 Moving Panorama of the Thames," and " Bryan's Pic- 
 ture (lallery." f came in about the middle of the former 
 exhibition, but was much pleased with what I saw. 
 The painting is calculated to impress the ^'ankees with 
 the greatness of England, and the beauties and in- 
 teresting associations of "Old Father Thames." Its 
 varied scenes carried me home again ; and I recognised 
 with pleasure, not unmixed with regret, many a familiar 
 spot connected with pleasing recollections. 
 
 *" Bryan's Picture Gallery" is a small collection of 
 paintings, collected at great trouble and expense from 
 various parts of Europe ; several of them by Rubens, 
 Teniers, Correggio, Kaffaelle, Giorgiune, Hogarth, &c., 
 thougli none that could be called a favourable specimen 
 of the styles of these great masters. A small female 
 head, by Greuze, pleased me the best, and I was 
 complimented by the man in charge for my taste, 
 and told that that was considered one of the jrems of 
 the collection. Two large paintings from Marshal 
 Soult's gallery, the " Descent from the Cross," and the 
 
 1 
 
 « A( 
 
 ■ 
 
 play( 
 
 m 
 
 o'cl(» 
 
 m 
 
 will 
 
 1 
 
 is ex 
 
 1 
 
 (line 
 
 1 
 
 bein^ 
 
 1 
 
 toget 
 
 1 
 
 atteii 
 
 m 
 
 girl ( 
 
 m 
 
 for 1 
 
 1 
 
 table 
 
 1 
 
 ladief 
 
 !|i 
 
 A 
 
A VISIT TO WALLACKS THKATUE 
 
 41 
 
 ids vory 
 
 X'HUtifuI 
 
 rise one 
 strolled 
 at once 
 ivoiir of 
 '(lit qui 
 ys bo of 
 
 ^Risley's 
 !ii»\s Pic- 
 e former 
 t I saw. 
 c(^ea with 
 and iii- 
 es." ItH 
 icognised 
 
 I familial 
 
 eetion of 
 nse from 
 Rubens, 
 irMi, &c., 
 ^specimen 
 
 II female 
 i I was 
 Tiy taste, 
 
 gems of 
 
 Marshal 
 
 ' and the 
 
 I 
 .1^ 
 
 " Adoriitioti (if the Slicplierds," evince the eneri^y dis- 
 played in pnicnriiig pictures. I dined at tlif tive 
 o'clock ordinary at tlic Mitropojifan ; tlio tliiiing-rooin 
 will easily contain upwards of 200 jjersons. Tlic dinner 
 is excellent both in )i><if(h'ti'l and cookery. The ladies 
 dine with the gentlemen, seats in pHrticulai- j)laces 
 being generally pre-engaged for parties travelling 
 tog(!ther. They dress very nicely, and with great 
 attention to etfect. What a temptation to a pretty 
 girl (brought up a I'Amei'Uun'nr) with j)lenfy of money 
 for making herself the observed of all observers ! A 
 tabl(! ufoddess I Whatever etfect all this mav have on 
 ladies, it is agreeable enough to the gentlemen to have 
 pretty faces to look at and admire, even though they 
 may claim no more ac(iuaintance with their owners 
 than a cat with a king. In the evenin<r I went to 
 Wallack's Theatre in Jiroadway to see the " Lady of 
 Lyons'' acted ; the theatre is a neat and ])retty one, the 
 scenery and acting were both good, and the audience 
 remarkably orderly and well-behaved: I had never seen 
 Bulwer's celebrated play before, — it quite delightcMl me ! 
 The beautiful character of Pauline Desdiappelles wjis 
 sustained by Miss Laura Keene, and ample justice was 
 done it by this accomplished and fascinating actress. 
 The successful conquest of woman's deep unalterable 
 love over her wounded pride and sense of wrong was 
 niost touchingly and delicately rendered. Every feeling 
 of woman's heart, — her love, disdain, contempt, devo- 
 tion, pride, and despair, — were all truthfully an<l faith- 
 fully pourtrayed. The character of Claude Melnotte, her 
 
1:1' 'i 
 
 ' 'i 
 
 ■ \ .1 
 
 i 'I 
 
 42 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 lover, was likewise well acted, and the minor actors 
 sufficiently good not to mar tlie interest of the piece. 
 
 '^ Fabvuary VMh. — Snowing hard when I awoke. 1 
 gazed from the garret I occupied witli some satisfaction 
 at the falling flakes, picturing to myself amusement 
 in the spectacle of Yankee sleighing. I walked to 
 Trinity Church, and heard the Bishop preach, and 
 conlirm afterwards, as I had been led to expect I should. 
 The sermon was good and much to the pc-int: it was on 
 the subject of confessing Christ before men. [ took a 
 long walk after church, traversing nearly the whole 
 length of Broadway, and visiting the site of the pro- 
 jected Crystal Palace. This latter is partially con- 
 structed, and gives promise of being both an elegant 
 and beautiful building. It looks infinitely smaller than 
 the Exhibition building in England, and is situated 
 <|uite in the outskirts of the town, on a piece of ground 
 adjoining the great Croton Reservoir. The two erec- 
 tions will be a striking contrast to each other, — evanes- 
 cence and durability side by side. The neighbourhood 
 of the chosen site is very wild and barren, and the 
 buildiniTS in the vicinity by no mea,ns either picturesque 
 or ornamental : we shall see what change the hand of 
 man may be able to accomplish when the 1st of jNIay 
 comes. An intelligent citizen, of whom 1 made some 
 inquiries, informed me that there were to be all kinds 
 of Hippodromes in the neighbourhood, .and that a 
 French confectioner was about to erect a Fairy Palace, 
 and dedicate it to cakes and gingerbread. 
 
 ^I was much struck by the many noble-looking private 
 
AN EXrENSIYE DINNER BELLE 
 
 48 
 
 Dr actor.s 
 
 piece, 
 woke. 1 
 ;isfaction 
 msement 
 a Iked to 
 icli, and 
 I should, 
 it was on 
 I took a 
 le whole 
 the pro- 
 dly con- 
 i elegant 
 lUer than 
 
 situated 
 f ground 
 wo erec- 
 -evanes- 
 )ourhood 
 and the 
 turesque 
 
 hand of 
 
 of jMay 
 de .some 
 ill kinds 
 that a 
 ' Palace, 
 
 1 
 
 ^1 
 1 
 
 residences I passed on my way to this place. P'ifth 
 Avenue, Union, and Madison Scjuares abound in them. 
 Tiie number of the wealthy class, " the upper ten 
 thousand " in New York, must be very considerable : 
 mendicants there appear to be scarcely any, and I have 
 only seen one object. The Irish supply the bone and 
 sinew to Brother Jonathan for carrving out his enter- 
 prising designs and specidations. An Irishman after a 
 short residence in the States endeavours often to out- 
 Vankee the Yankees themselves : he cultivates a peaked 
 Itt-ard, fjuesses with a rich brogue, and wishes for a 
 sallow complexion. This I cannot say I have en- 
 countered myself, but I can easily believe it. To-day 
 at dinner I sat close to a most gorgeously appar(!lled 
 damsel, who but for her high cheek-bones might have 
 been mistaken for a Frenchwoman ; she was dressed in 
 a rich scarlet geranium-coloured silk gown, trimmed 
 and ornamented with black, her hair brushed well 
 hack, after the American fashion, and with " rings on 
 her fingers," and, for aught I could tell to the contrary, 
 " hells on her toes ; " her complexion was most delicate, 
 and something between a maiden-blush and a peach- 
 blossom. Altogether she was a bright object, and 
 relieved the black coats of the men near her most 
 admirably : she w^as stylish without being pretty or 
 attractive ; had she been either of the latter, 1 should 
 have spoken of her with more reverence. A Sunday 
 evenine: in a larsre hotel wdiere you know no one is not 
 
 I wrote some iournal, read three or 
 
 likely 
 
 /ely, 
 
 .]< 
 
 private 
 
 four of Macaulay's speeches (which pleased me much), 
 
'■ ? 1 '. 
 
 ■ I 1 
 
 I t 
 
 li'. 
 
 I 
 
 [ '' 
 
 i I 
 
 S ' 
 
 \M 
 
 44 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 and watched several happy pairs of ladies and gentlemen 
 promenading up and down one of the large passages of 
 the hotel. It struck me as rather a remarkable circum- 
 stance, but one which I noted in many cases, that the 
 doors of private sitting-rooms, in which ladies are 
 sitting: talking- to one another, were almost invariablv 
 left wide open, to afford passers-by an opportunity of 
 belioldinfj and scrutinisinfj a series of small natural 
 tableaux vivants. A young damsel, whom I judge from 
 her eyes, complexion, and youth, to be fresh from the 
 south and from school, has for the last day or two 
 directed occasional glances at me, — not of love, but 
 apparently of compassion for my solitary and isolated 
 position. I endeavour in return to infuse as much gra- 
 titude as I can into my looks, and I always, on sitting 
 down at table, glance my eye round the room in search 
 of my sensitive little friend. I shall begin soon to feel 
 that we are acquainted, and shall perhaps, if I am near 
 her and al)sent in mind, ask after her father in New 
 Orleans, or whether she finds New York cold after the 
 south. 
 
 'Feb. 14f/t. — Cold, but bright and cheerful. After 
 breakfast I sauntered down Broadway, and visited 
 several Law Courts in the City Hall. The absence 
 of wigs and gowns is at first very striking to an 
 Englishman. The judge, too, is by no means the 
 same terrible and imposing person (whose very frown 
 agitates the hair of a culprit) that we see adminis- 
 trating justice at Westminster Hall or the Old Bailey. 
 He is a simple citizen in a black coat, sitting in an arm- 
 
1 1 i 
 
 AMERICAN LAW COURTS 
 
 45 
 
 ntlemen 
 3sages of 
 circum- 
 that the 
 Jies are 
 variably 
 unity of 
 
 natural 
 Ige from 
 rom the 
 
 or two 
 ove, but 
 
 isolated 
 uch gra- 
 Q sitting 
 n search 
 a to feel 
 am near 
 
 in New 
 
 fter the 
 
 After 
 visited 
 absence 
 to an 
 [IPS the 
 y frown 
 dminis- 
 Bailey. 
 iin arm- 
 
 chair behind a kind of elevated desk. He is addressed 
 as "the Court." The council engaged in several of the 
 courts sat on opposite sides (if the term be admissible) 
 of a round table, placed near the centre of the Court. 
 They did not appear to me to conduct the examination 
 and cross-examination of witnesses quite so regularly 
 as an English barrister does; but they generally looked 
 keen, 'cute men, ready to catch a point instantaneously, 
 or detect any flaw in statement or argument. I was 
 fortunate enough at the District Court of New York to 
 hear a celebrated lawyer, a Mr. C. B. Cutting, plead 
 a cause for the defence. He spoke more than three 
 hours. I heard the latter half of his address, which 
 struck me as very powerful and impressive. The charge 
 against the prisoner, whose cause he pleaded, wan for 
 i^mufjirlinf;,- — a crime which in the United States is most 
 verely punished, the greater part of the reveime of the 
 country being derived from the Customs. 
 
 I continued my stroll down Broadway after this visit 
 to the Majesty of Law, and lounged into Barnum's 
 American Museum, a vulgar collection of curiosities. 
 The state-coach formerly belonging to (^ueen Adelaide 
 figures conspicuously : the footmen and coachm<ui in 
 wax are dressed in state liveries. There is an extra- 
 ordinary petrifaction exhibited in this ^Museum, which, 
 if genuine, is certai;- y very curious. It is a group, 
 consisting of a man on horseback encircled by a 
 huge boa constrictor. The man is represented as u 
 South American, and the grctup is asserted to have 
 been discovered in a cave, where it had been h/ln>j 
 
m 
 
 II- Mi 
 
 4G 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 n 
 
 
 i !, 
 
 l" ! 
 
 '. ( 
 
 for age.s, and about which probably its present and 
 future proprietors will lie for ages to come. 
 
 On returning homewards, I called at the St. Nicholas, 
 and requested to be shown a celebrated apartment in 
 that hotel, called the Bridal Chamber. Bridal chambers 
 are common enough in steamers in America, but I had 
 never before heard of a particular room in an hotel 
 exclusively devoted to the delights of the honeymoon. 
 The room at the St. Nicholas is small ; its walls are 
 covered with fluted white satin, and the sofas and chairs 
 are of the same material. The bed, with a refinement 
 of ostentatious indelicacy, occupies the centre of the 
 apartment ; its curtains are of rich white satin, and it 
 is illuminated by four crystal lustres (each for four 
 burners), one at every corner I ! ! A rich veil of lace, 
 worth several hundred dollars, reposing on a quilt of 
 white satin, greets the eye when looking downwards 
 from the glories of the curtains. The modest sum of 
 \50 i\o\\ni'i^ j)er noctem is charged to the occupants of 
 this luxurious apartment. I think the pair who occu- 
 pied it, when tliey emerged, would be as great curiosities 
 as the room itself. 
 
 ' In the evening I went to the opera, where a 
 crowded audience were assembled to hear iNIadame 
 Sontag in " Lucia di Lammermoor." I had never heard 
 her before, and was a little disappointed at the piano 
 manner with which slie executed several airs. She 
 has created a perfect furor in America, — to do whicli 
 it is only necessary to achieve an European reputation. 
 Mr. Bancroft, the Ameri''an historian, sat in front of 
 
 :l 
 
 i 
 
 concern 
 first esi 
 breakin 
 ing up t 
 in his h 
 adding, 
 ' Sucl 
 endeavn 
 his paro 
 
 t martyr ; 
 
 .| city of 1 
 
 J 
 
CRIME AND DISHONOUTl 
 
 47 
 
 me at the opera. He is a lively old gentleman, with 
 extraordinary hair and spectacles. Phrenologists would 
 not, I think, pronounce him a genius at first sight : 
 he is, I believe, a native of Boston, where he resides. 
 
 ' Feb. '[5th. — To-day I strolled about Broadway; and, 
 at about eleven o'clock, paid a visit to the " Tombs," the 
 Newf^ate of New York. The builiiing is situated near 
 Broadway, and has somewliat the appearance of an 
 ICo-vptian temple ; there wci\ of course, scarcely any 
 windows to relieve the eye. The prisoners, in j)airs, 
 are confined in small apartments; visitors walk along 
 a narrow platform, and look at them through the grat- 
 ings of their dungeons, as thev would at wild beasts. I 
 hurried away from the spectacle of degraded humanity, 
 and amused myself by walking up and down Broadway, 
 and looking at unconvicted citizens. 
 
 *I met a gentleman whom I knew at Montreal at 
 the Metropolitan. He pointed out to me Mr. 
 Meagher, the Irish editor of the " Nation," who was 
 concerned in the Smith O'Brien riots ; and who, after 
 first escaping with his life, had at last managed, by 
 breaking his parole, to escape from confinement. Walk- 
 ing up to the oflficer on guard, with a pair of loaded pistols 
 in his hands, he said, "I surrender myself,"! suppose; 
 adding, " I'll shoot you if you attempt to take me." 
 
 ' Such is the flimsy subterfuge by which Mr. JNTeagher 
 endeavours to escape the imputation of having broken 
 his parole ; he is treated in the States as a hero and a 
 martyr; an address has been presented to him by the 
 city of New York, signed by the mayor ; and he lectures 
 
(1111 11 
 
 I I 
 
 ill 
 
 'i ! 
 
 I 
 
 \i 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 r i 
 
 !i 
 
 48 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 on "Australia,'' and " Grattan and the Volunteers of '82,'" 
 to crov/ded audiences. l[e is young, and rather good- 
 looking. The Americans sympathise heartily with every 
 hlackguard from Ireland or elsewhere, who makes him- 
 self conspicuous by his pretended efforts for liberty, 
 against the cause of order and constituted authority. 
 
 ' A large monument stands in one of their cemeteries 
 in Broadway, raised to the memory of Thomas Emmet, 
 brother of ilie celebrated Robert, who, however, in this 
 case, though a rebel, was certainly a fine fellow. 
 
 ' I was invited this evening to dine with Mr. Lane, a 
 New York merchant, livinur in Tenth Street. The con- 
 versation at dinner turned on the alleged claim of a 
 missionary clergyman, known in the States as the Rev. 
 Eleazar Williams, to be considered the Dauphin of 
 France. It is said that he was privately conveyed to 
 America, and the body of some other person shown to 
 the Duchess d'Angouleme a., that of her brother. He 
 served in the American army during the w^ar, and, 
 though only in a subordinate jDOsition, received the 
 thanks of Congress. The Prince de Joinville, it is 
 further stated, when in America, paid him a visit, and 
 asked him to sign a paper renoiuicing all claim to the 
 throne of France, on consideration of the receipt of an 
 annual income. This jNIr. Williams refused to do ; and 
 stopped the prince's remonstrances by quietly saying, 
 " If I am the Dauphin, as you represent, I am your 
 superior." The whole affair is wrapped in mystery; 
 but sufficient is known or conjectured to produce great 
 excitement in the States. 
 
 I ' :\rr. 
 
 I for son 
 front iei 
 
 J^ 
 
A NEW YORK DINNER-PARTY 
 
 49 
 
 ' ^Ir. Williams preaches at New York ; lie has resided 
 for some time as a missionary on the Unitod States 
 frontier. His story has been told l)y some very re- 
 spectable citizens of New York in one of the maL,'azines, 
 hut I do not tlnnk very much credit can be attached to 
 it. The improbability of the Prince de Joinville's at- 
 tempting- to bribe a man not to assert a claim, whose 
 existence ho must have been ignorant of, is a strong 
 argument against the truth of the story. 
 
 ' The dinner was excellent : young green peas and 
 prairie hens were great delicacies to a man from the 
 wilds of Canada. ]\Irs. Law is an intelligent, well- 
 educated woman. She was very kind and courteous, 
 and expressed her regret at my not having been with 
 her in the morning, when she had been paying some 
 reception visits; and I might have had an opportunity 
 of seeing the abodes of some of the merchant princes of 
 New York. Dr. INIetcalfe, one of the guests, had been edu- 
 cated at West Poin+j and had served in ^Mexico with the 
 American army ; he described the service on the frontier 
 as harassing and monotonous, — exertion and exposure 
 uncombined with amusement or agreeable excitement, 
 — something of what the Caffre war is to our soldiers. 
 
 ' The inauguration of General Pierce as Presidcjnt was 
 expected, I heard here, to be very (piiet, on account of 
 his domestic bereavements. Senators, ]Mrs. Law told 
 me, were not the men now-a-days that they were for- 
 merly. She described President Fillmore as a perfect 
 gentleman in manner, and most agreeable in conversa- 
 tion. The children (very pretty ones) joined us at des- 
 
 E 
 
!H' 
 
 50 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ,}■ 
 
 |]!f 
 
 !i. 
 
 j 
 
 r\ 
 
 
 ',f 
 
 ! i 
 
 I 
 
 f " ( 
 
 sert, find we all adjourned to the drawinr(-rooin toge- 
 
 thei 
 
 rdinir to the American custom. Dr. and Mn 
 
 accon 
 Metcalfe were eng'a«>-ed to some other parties, and left 
 soon after dinner. I followed, thanking my hospitable 
 hostess for lier kindness, and receiving an invitation to 
 call at her house aijain on mv return from the South. 
 
 'Feb. \C)th. — Wet and disagreeal^le. Remained in- 
 doors all da}^ Kead the papers and wrote a letter to 
 England. The papers, though generally a little bitter 
 against " Old England,*' have, I found, often articles 
 written in a conciliatory spirit, and rebuking the ob- 
 noxious swagLCer and brng<>-adocio so characteristic of a 
 certain class in the States. 
 
 ' While at New York T saw the funeral procession of 
 one of the New York A^'olunteers, w^ho had died from 
 the effects of the climate of ]\rexico, pass down IJroad- 
 way. It was well attended, and I had an opportunity 
 of seeing a few American soldiers. They looked a rough 
 lot, marched in a loose straggling manner, and had 
 anything but a parade appearance. The liberty they 
 enjoy of cultivating scraggy beards at pleasure is more 
 than sufficient to destroy uniformity of appenrance. I 
 left New York at about 5 o'clock for Philadelphia, distant 
 eighty-eight miles. The line traverses a flat and unin- 
 teresting country. I crossed two ferries, one at New 
 York, and the other over the Delaware river, from 
 Camden to Philadelphia, and reached the latter city at 
 about half-past ten o'clock. I was poked np as usual 
 in a small room in the sixth storey, and went to bed tired 
 and uncomfortable.' 
 
 I 
 
 mgs. 
 
51 
 
 ClIAPTEK IV. 
 
 I '■ 
 
 riiiLABKLririA — gihakd collegk-state house. 
 
 ]^EP,. IS/A.—Girard Collogv, the lion of Philudclpliia, 
 - is a inag'iiiticent building', or rathtT oToup of liuild- 
 ings. It consists of a central temple of (Ireciau archi- 
 tecture, sliL>'htly resend)ling tlie Madeleine at Paris, 
 and four isolated buildin<i's — two on either side of the 
 temple, — the whole built of white marble. It is the 
 most noble monument of individual charity in this or 
 perhaps any other country, and was constructed solely 
 from funds bequeathed by Stephen GirarJ, a native of 
 France, who settled and accumulated an immense for- 
 tune in Philadelphia. Besides two millions of dollars for 
 the erection of this college, he left large sums to many 
 public charities. Girard College is built solely for the 
 instruction of male orphan children. Their number is 
 always limited to about .300. Mr. Girard, who in his 
 will gives minute directions for the construction of the 
 College, enjoins — "That no ecclesiastic, missionary, or 
 minister of any sect whatever shall ever hold, or exer- 
 cise any station or duty whatever in the said College ; nor 
 shall any such person ever be admitted for any purpose, 
 
 B 2 
 
09 
 
 CANADA AND THE CHIMEA 
 
 ; I 
 
 or as a visitor, within the premises appropriated for the 
 purposes of tlie said College." 
 
 * The reason he j^ives for this extraordinary provision 
 is his desire to keep "the tender minds of tlie orphans" 
 free from the excitement which clasldng doctrines and 
 sectarian controversy are apt to produce. " .My desire 
 is," he furtlier says, " that all the instructors, and 
 teachers of the College shall take pains to instil into the 
 minds of the sclxdars the purest principles of morality, 
 so that on their entrance into active life they may, from 
 inclination and habit, evince benevolence towards their 
 fellow-creatures, and a love of truth, sobriety, and indus- 
 try, adopting at the same time such religious tenets as 
 their mature reason may enable them to prefer." 
 
 'The will was endeavoured to be set aside by Girard's 
 relations, on account of this provision ; and they en- 
 gaged Mr. Webster to plead their case before the Su- 
 preme Court of the United States. They were unsuc- 
 cessful, however, and the judges unanimously decided 
 in favour of the will. Girard commenced life as a com- 
 mon sailor in a French merchant vessel, and raised 
 himself solely by his untiring energy and merit. 
 
 ' After dinner I visited the State House, where the 
 Declaration of Independence on the 4th of July, 1776, 
 was adopted by Congress, and publicly proclaimed from 
 the steps the same day. The rooms wear almost the 
 same aspect as they did then, little change having been 
 made in the furniture or interior decorations. At the 
 end opposite the door is the figure of Washington with 
 the Declaration in his hand. Near him is placed a 
 
DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM 
 
 68 
 
 i 
 
 portion of the identical .step on ^vlliell liis foot rested 
 when lie read tlie document to tlie nmltitude. Round 
 the room are hung portraits of W;ishinL,'toii, when a 
 colonel, William Penn, and Lafayette. The hell whieh 
 first proclaimed lil)erty(?) is also preserved licre. It 
 was first cast in England, and suhse(|U(^ntly recast in 
 America. The room was hung with crape, in memory 
 of Henry Clay and Daniel Webster. 
 
 *The next lion, partaking, however, in its nature more 
 of the character of the laml), is the Deaf and Dumb 
 Asylum. It contains 144 pupils, who are admitted at 
 the age of ten or upwards, and remain six years at the 
 institution. They are taught to read and write the 
 English language, and when this great object is at- 
 tained, arithmetic, geometry, &c., follow. 
 
 * The difficulty of communicating ideas and knowledge 
 of language is, as may be supposed, very great. The 
 first step towards it is the acquisition of the knowledge 
 of the names of different objects, and their uses. "The 
 instructor presents an object, or a picture of one, or 
 makes a sign for it. He then teaches them to write 
 the name, presenting each letter by the manual alpha- 
 bet. When they can all write it, it is erased and re- 
 written a number of times until it is impressed upon 
 the memory." The next idea to be imparted is the 
 quality or uses of particular objects, and their relations. 
 
 'Series of sentences, anecdotes, narratives, etc., are 
 written off, and explained by signs. These are copied 
 by the pupils and studied as evening exercises, and in 
 school are written from memory, or recited by signs. 
 
 E 3 
 
54 
 
 CANADA AND THE CllIMEA 
 
 I I 
 
 ||.:I 
 
 1 ' 
 
 II. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 MVIk'H once taught to read the mute is supposed 
 cii[ial>I(' t»r sclt-instructioii, l»iit a lar^c iuiiuIkt do not 
 cvi'ii reach tliis point from want of capacity. 
 
 'Tiiey sometimes display jj^reat inventive genius, and 
 skill in dravvini; and tiie imitative arts. 
 
 ' 1 was shewn several lithographs which would not 
 have disgraced the windows of a London print shop, 
 which were executed ])y the unaided efforts of some 
 pupils of the institution. 
 
 * Attached to the asylum is a museum fdlcd with 
 stuffed hirds, and animals, models of various objects, 
 specimens of grain, v.Vc. ; and is of important use in 
 imparting definite ideas. Arithmetic is taught hy 
 means of a nundx'r of black, and red wooden beads 
 strung on wires fixed to frames, and moved like the 
 markers used at billiards. 
 
 ^ Some of the children, the manager told me, were 
 not ])orn deaf, but lost the power of speech at an 
 early age. They, however, (.entirely lose the knowledge 
 of the sound of language, but are generally more apt 
 pupils than the rest. 
 
 * The deaf and dumb alphabet is indicated by one 
 hand only. Instances never seem to have occurred here 
 of pupils recovering their speech or hearing. 
 
 'The l)lind have an exquisitely fine sense of sound 
 and of touch, but tlie poor deaf and dumb appear to 
 possess no superiority either in their senses, or faculties. 
 Life must, indeed, be a blank to some of them. When, 
 however, their natural faculties enable them to master 
 the difRcidties of reading, and writing, they are perhaps 
 
BLIND AyYLl'M 
 
 65 
 
 ill it more cnviaLk! position tliiin those who arc unahk' 
 to sec the ^HorioiiH huu when In' sliines with ail liis 
 splendour on the fairest scenes of nature. A deaf aii<l 
 (luiiib person may yet ae([uire a thousand ideas from 
 tlic (thjccts ai'ouiul him, and a stron^^s natural ri'Ii^ioii 
 from the contemplation of the wonders of cri-ation. 
 (jud manifests Himself to him by J I is works. 
 
 'My next visit was to another institution even more 
 intercstinL( than the one [ had just left, — the Asylum 
 for the lllind. l[cre, as at the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 
 I was treated with marked courtesy and kindness. Tlu' 
 nianai^cr took me to several class-rooms, and T s;),w 
 some of the girls write. The paper they write upon is 
 |)laccd on a piece of grooved cardboard. The grooves 
 they leel through th(! paper, and they serve them as lines. 
 They look downwards on tlieir papir, as if, poor things ! 
 they could see what tliey were writing, and follow the 
 movement of their pencil with their left fore-finger. 
 One, whom I observed, wrote well, and with toleral)le 
 raj)idity, the words, *' l^lessed are the poor in spirit, for 
 theirs is the kingdom of heaven." 
 
 ' I was introduced here to a dear old Quaker lady. 
 We soon became capital friends. She seemed over- 
 llowing with kindness and benevolence. The poor little 
 girls appeared to hail her approach as that of some 
 heavenly being who had dropped down upon them to 
 dispense love and happiness. 
 
 *The men and boys are principally instructed in 
 making mats and brushes, and sometimes l)OCome 
 sufficiently skilful to procure their own livelihood. 
 
 E 4 
 
 ■ hi 
 
56 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 a !' 
 
 i 
 
 
 u 
 
 • i 
 
 \ I 
 
 i I 
 
 !! 
 
 ' After seeing the children at dinner, and taking an 
 affectionate farewell of my conductress, I continued my 
 walk to the Fairmount "Water Works, situated near the 
 river Schuylkill. They occupy an area of thirty acres. 
 The water is raised by eight wheels, moved by water- 
 power, and working piniips. The power necessary for 
 this is obtained by throwing a dam of 1600 feet long- 
 across the river. Each pump will raise about 1,260,000 
 gallons in twenty-four hours. The works were pro- 
 jected, and executed by a ^Nlr. Graff. The Schuylkill 
 is a small, and rather insignificant river. 
 
 * Feb. \9fh. — This was the morning which was ap- 
 pointed for my introduction to the great Mrs. I{ . I 
 
 accordingly, about one o'clock, accompanied the lady 
 who was kind enough to introduce me to her house. 
 
 ' The whole of her magnificent mansion was arranged, 
 and its furniture and fittino-s chosen bv herself. 
 
 ^Nearl}'- all was from Paris, where she had resided 
 for some time. 
 
 'Three sides of a ([uadrangle at the back of the 
 house are occupied by a most beautiful conservatory, 
 richly stored with a profusion of rare and exqidsite 
 plants and flowers, all in perfect preservation, — a sight 
 quite refreshing to the eye in this season of snow and 
 frost. 
 
 ' The interior of the house was fitted up in the most 
 siunptuous manner, and in a style of oriental mag- 
 nificence. Two rich tapestry curtains, which hung 
 across a folding door, cost 3000 dollars each. The 
 profusion of gigantic chandeliers and lustres, — the ex- 
 
mag- 
 hung 
 The 
 he ex- 
 
 A MAGNIFICENT MANSION 57 
 
 qiiisitely carved and richly inhiid tables and cabinets, — 
 the gilded chairs, ottomans, and sofas, — the vast mirrors 
 and rich curtains, — all created in the mind the impression 
 of boundless wealth. One room, furnished in a style 
 whoUv different from all the rest, and affordiuj'' a 
 marked contrast to the rich damask, and gold, and the 
 glories of the French clocks, and candelabras, was unique, 
 and exquisite in its way. It was in the mediieval style. 
 The cabinets, and mantel-piece were all of dark wood, 
 beautifully carved, aid ornamented with highly finished 
 figures of knights, and warriors in bronze ; and a mass of 
 helmets, cuirasses, and other armour, admirably arranged 
 and most delicately executed, brightened the general 
 eflfect. Everything was in keeping. Not a glittering 
 object was admitted, and an effect was produced both 
 tranquillisiug, and agreeable after the comparative glare 
 of the other apartments. 
 
 *I spent the evening with the J s; Mrs. J. toM 
 
 me she was god-daughter to the Duchess of Leeds, who 
 was a l^altimore lady. Three sisters, who accompanied 
 their father to England, were married to three of the 
 highest Enjilish nobilitv, viz. to the Duke of Leeds, 
 the ]Mar(|uis of Wellesley, and Lord Strafford. The 
 two first were widows, and rich before they became 
 peeresses.* 
 
 ' Suiidai/, Feb. 20th. — I dined at the ladies' ordinary 
 at half-past three, and sat next to three navjd men: 
 they seemed good fellows. They were not (pute so 
 refined, I fancied, as our own tars ; they appeared to lack 
 
 * Dauglileis uf Kichard Caton, Esq., of Marylaud. 
 
 I i 
 
 Mt 
 
 l^l;:' 
 
1 11 
 
 i-v 
 
 ( ' 
 
 I 
 
 i i 
 
 i't ! 
 
 V, 
 
 fti ! 
 
 53 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 a " J(i ne sais quol,'" that easy, gentlemanly manner 
 whicli makes an English sailors frankness so attractive. 
 The promotion in the American navy is very slow, 
 and men remnin for yearn in subordinate positions. 
 This f[iet has been taken up by the press, and will 
 probably be brouglit under the consideration of 
 Congress. It seems a much better service than that of 
 the American army. 
 
 * General Pierce had arrived at Philadelphia, but kept 
 very quiet, as he has done everywhere, on account of 
 his domestic bereavements, llis picture, which is in 
 all the shop windows, represents him as a short and 
 ratlier plain, but a decided looking, and intelligent man. 
 
 ' In my walk to-day I had reason continually to 
 admire the great breadth, and straightness of the streets 
 of Pliiladelphia, and the manner in wdiich the city is 
 laid out. 
 
 * Though it does not contain such rows of magnificent, 
 and stately mansions as New York, it may still boast of 
 some very handsome ones, and of the beauty of some 
 of its public buildings, built with that most beautiful of 
 materials, white marble. It has still further reason to 
 congratulate itself on its extreme cleaidiness, and in 
 the nund)er of public squares, planted with trees, which 
 afford delightful shelter during the siunmer heats. 
 
 'It is celebrated for fruit and vegetables, which are 
 grown on a neck of land, separating the rivers Delaware 
 and Schuylkill ; from this circumstance the streets 
 derive their horticultural names, Chestnut Street being 
 the finest in the city. 
 
 ft 
 
AN AMEEICAN DOCKYAED 
 
 59 
 
 * Philadelpliia at one time was considered tlie principal 
 city in the States, and endeavoured to retain its supe- 
 riority against tlie rising importance of Xew '\'t)i-k ; hut 
 ''tlie Empire City" gained the race easily, and its 
 triumph is now completely acknowledged. The country 
 around the city is generally \-duw. In this respect, also, 
 Philadelphia is very inferior both to New York and 
 Boston. 
 
 ^Fcb. 2\st. — Fine cold clear morning; after breakfast 
 I went to seethe U.S. Navy Yard near the Delaware 
 river. It hardly repaid the trouble of a visit ; a slack- 
 looking marine in a light blue nniform, something of 
 the colour of the hospital dress worn at Woolwich, stood 
 sentry at the entrance; a few badly finished guns, and 
 two, or three piles of shot, were almost the only objects 
 of a warlike nature. Two empty docks for Ituilding 
 frigates, or two-deckers, and several long low^ brick l)\uld- 
 ings, nsed, I imagine, as workshops, with here and there 
 an open shed, composed the navy yard. A new ship — a 
 small frijj-ate — was bein^- finished close to one of the 
 slips in which she had probabl}" been built ; and another 
 vessel of about the same size, and in commission, was 
 lying at anchor a few yards from the shore. A })oat 
 putting off from the ship afforded me an oppoitunity 
 of seeing how the American sailors handle their oars, 
 and I must say they both pidled and shipped them in a 
 sailor-like maimer. 
 
 'I left Philadelphia in a very crowdeil train at two 
 o'clock, and reached l^altimore at about H v.'si. \\\; 
 crossed the Susquehanna river in a steam firry, and 
 
 r I 
 
u 
 
 lit 
 
 ' 1 
 
 ' I 
 
 i i 
 
 l> . 
 
 
 i . ' 
 
 iH, 
 
 'li, 
 
 60 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 when safely located in fresh cars at the other side, I 
 became for the first time aware that the train I was in 
 was hearing the American Ca'sar (Anglice, President 
 elect) and all his fortunes. General Pierce and his 
 suite occupied a car by themselves, to the dissatisfaction 
 of the rest of the passengers, and especially of an old 
 jxentleman who had come from Georf'ia to witness his 
 inaua'uration after voting for him. He seemed to con- 
 sider such exclusiveness most foolish, and quite un- 
 precedented, and asserted that General Pierce should 
 not confound his private and public characters together, 
 and allow domestic aiflictions to influence his conduct 
 as the President of the United States. I found my old 
 friend very sociable and well informed. He was evi- 
 dently partial to England, and said that America would 
 never allow any foreign power to subjugate her, and 
 destroy the last stronghold of liberty in Europe. He 
 had seen, and known Jerome Ponaparte, whose son, by 
 his first marriage, he told me, was living at Baltimore, 
 and was very like the Bonaparte family in features. He 
 had also lived on rather intimate terms with Napoleon's 
 eldest brother, Joseph, at Jersey ; and spoke of him as 
 an intelligent and superior man. He thought the pre- 
 sent Emperor an insignificant personage (I), but did not 
 approve of the severe strictures of the English press 
 against his character and actions, after he had been 
 chosen by such a vast majority to be the ruler of a great 
 nation. General Pierce continued his journey, without 
 stopping, to Washington, where his arrival was announced 
 this morning in the papers. He seems to have been com- 
 
 :ii 
 
I i 
 
 CHINESE JUGGLERS 
 
 61 
 
 pletely himted down ^)y office-seekers and rom|»elle(], 
 ill order to avoid them, to depart suddeidy and unex- 
 pectedly from place to place. 
 
 'It Avas dusk when we reached Baltimore, so I could 
 form but little idea of the city. The cars took us through 
 some dirty back streets (the Baltimore "\Vapi)ing), and 
 we skirted the edge of the basin or harbour, defended 
 by Fort McHenry. 
 
 'After a beefsteak and a cup of coffee, I went to the 
 theatre, utterly unconscious of a fact which I aftiTwards 
 ascertained — viz. that Thackerav lectured elsewhere 
 this very evening. Instead of being delighted and gra- 
 tified, as I make no doubt I should have been, by his 
 enlightened and elegant criticism, and his grapliic illus- 
 trations, I was bored by the rather inferior performances 
 of a Chinese troupe, in a densely crowded theatre. The 
 exhibition was not wholly without interest : I had cer- 
 tainly never seen Chinese eat chow-chow with chop- 
 sticks, or heard them talk that mysterious language, 
 the symbols of which adorn our tea-chests. I had also 
 never previously beheld any living specimens of their 
 fur sex; and I must say the ladies, though they do wear 
 trowsers instead of petticoats, have a decided advantage 
 over the gentlemen. The tricks perf )rmed were gene- 
 rally but little above mediocrity : two, however, struck 
 me — a boy throwing a head somersault without using 
 his hands, and a man darting knives at another, and 
 fixing them into a board,within a hair's breadth of his 
 head and face. This last was trulv national, and, thou<rh 
 rather alarming in appearance, w\as sufficiently excitinf^-. 
 
 !i 
 
1' 
 
 It-il 
 
 1^ 
 
 Is 
 
 sir I 
 
 [ 
 
 1^ 
 
 \' i 
 
 i i^ 
 
 i 
 
 I;! -Ill 
 
 «;2 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ' Biu-Huni's Hotel, Baltimore, in which I had taken 
 up my abode, is a large and rather seedy place, very 
 inferior both to the Girard Ifouse, and the INIetro- 
 politan. At about half-past five in the morning, in the 
 mid<ll(^ of a refreshing snooze, I was alarmed l)y the cry 
 of "P'ire!" and the rinLrini*- of divers bells: these 
 spoiled my night's rest. 
 
 < Baltimore, Feb. 22nd. 
 
 'After breakfast I started to examine the city. It was 
 unfortunately wrapped in fog, so that a co^ip (Vo'Al of 
 the city was impossible. The handsomest portion of 
 the citv is in the neiLrhbourhood of Washington's monu- 
 mcnt. The site is a favourable one, and commands an 
 extensive view. To-day is the anniversary of Washing- 
 ton's birth. The stars and stripes figure conspicuously 
 from various public buildings ; balls are given by dif- 
 ferent public bodies ; and processions march through the 
 streets in most cities of the Union. The birthday of her 
 greatest son, however, is not celebrated by America with 
 any extraordinary pomp or rejoicing. 
 
 'Baltimore is on the borders of the Slave States. At 
 the theatre there is a gallery especially reserved for 
 coloured people, be they bond or free. The waiters at 
 the hotel are all, or nearly all, Ijlack. Poor Sambo I 
 he is a good fellow after all. Good natured, cheerful 
 (in spite of oppression), with a sensitive and affectionate 
 heart, if not brought to a state of sullen indifference by 
 a course of cruelty. Most of the black people I have 
 yet seen have either been pure nigger, or near approaches 
 
 
THE SLAVE QUESTION 
 
 63 
 
 to tliat stuto of iinpcrfoction. As tlie refloctii>u of Isis 
 (leyTJuled t'oiiditioii flaslies ncross my mind, I feel a spe- 
 cies of restraint in the presence of one of these poor fel- 
 lows. I am afraid to catch his eye, and to re:id in his 
 looks, and expression the sense of bondage and iid'e- 
 riority ; of wron;^, contnmely, iind injustice ; and, more 
 touching than all, to see that look of desponding, de- 
 spairing submission, which shews that soul as well as 
 hody is bowed down and crushed. When can i\ slaves 
 enjoy that common right of all men — self-respect? Is 
 lie allowed to express — even to form — an opinion of liis 
 own ? Are not thought, will, and feeling alike shackled 
 by the iron hand of despotism ? It is this moi'al degra- 
 dation which, to my mind, is infiniteh' more painful 
 and hunnliating than compulsory l)odily labour. Com- 
 pulsory bodily labour is not slavery, or else slavery exists 
 iu every country ; for in what country is compulsor}' 
 bodily labour not indispensa])le to the existence of a large 
 portion of the community ? 
 
 ' The Slave question is a difficult and delicate one. 
 Emancipation — sudden and complete emancipation — 
 would ruin both slaves and slave-ouTiers. Whom do y(ju 
 emancipate ? Whom do you raise to the rank of free men? 
 Are they men who even know what freedom means ? Do 
 we give children edge-tools to play with ? What would 
 be the effect of suddenly raising several millions of human 
 beings, ignorant, without the sense of moral responsibility, 
 without a chief to guide them, surrounded by a liostilo 
 crowd, with every disadvantage of prejudice and posi- 
 tion added to those of want of capacity or capital, — 
 

 ^1 
 i f 
 
 V 
 
 V. 
 
 64 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 what would he tlie effect of suddenly mising this mass 
 as it were from the dead, in opposition to the encrny, 
 the ability, the hatred of white men ? It mjiy he said — 
 Let him, when free, emi<^rate, — let him leave the land 
 of his past disL,q'ace and ])ondage, — let him hasten to 
 those countries where his wrongs have so long afforded 
 a theme over which the sympathising tears of thousands 
 have been shed. Will not his heart glow with the un- 
 experienced sensations of freedom ? Will he not be 
 proud of a bond — a bond of union and brotherhood — 
 with that race which was formerly to him only an object 
 of dread or aversion ? 
 
 * Bwt what is the practical view ? Where is the negro 
 to get funds to enable him to leave the scene of his cap- 
 tivity ? What is he to do in these days without know- 
 ledge, or experience ? Some of the negroes — the mulat- 
 tos and quadroons, — those with a dash of white blood 
 in their veins, — might succeed, after a heroic struggle 
 with the force of circumstances : but what is to become 
 of the great mass — the mass for whom this outcry is 
 raised ? 
 
 ' How are they to be benefited ? The evident prepara- 
 tion for freedom is education. Let freedom be the re- 
 ward of certain attainments. Let us liberate that class 
 who are most deserving of freedom, and most likely to 
 use it well — the mulattos, quadroons, &c. This will 
 be a great step in the right direction. We prepare a 
 class in the State which will sympathise with the re- 
 maining victims when they are liberated, and we allow 
 an interval to elapse to accustom men to the spectacle 
 
 ■? 
 
THE SLA.VE QUESTION 
 
 65 
 
 of a community of free l^laeks, whose intelli^^Tiice will 
 secure them some degree of respect and consideration. 
 It may be urged that this spectacle of freedom would 
 produce insurrection — would lead the negro race to rise 
 as a man against their oppressors, and forcibly throw 
 aside their bonds. But do men without a chief or a 
 head, separated into distinct communities, having but 
 little intercourse with each other, — do they resort to 
 fore(3, violence, or bloodshed, when a fair and reasonable 
 expectation is before them of the peaceful attainment 
 of their object ? The black man — the pure negro — is 
 submissive by nature, by education, by habit. We have 
 removed the great element (jf revolt and mischief, by 
 removing the most intelligent and spirited. Who are 
 those who are left behind. ? They are numerically im- 
 posing, no doubt; but so are the Chinese — so are the 
 hosts that move at the nod of the despots of India ; — 
 hut are they not, even more than these, a body without 
 intelligence or unity of purpose, or a knowledge of 
 their own advantages or disadvantages ? 
 
 ' Eeasonable reforms and concessions are the essence 
 of good government of all kind, — they are the antidotes 
 against the poisons of revolution and anarchy. 
 
 * Feb. 23rd. — Wet, gloomy, and disagreeable. Left 
 Baltimore at 9 a.m., and reached Washington at 1 1 A.M. 
 I travelled to Washington with the same chatty old 
 gentleman who had expressed his indignation at the 
 President's exclusiveness a few days before ; he told me 
 that he was bom near Baltimore, and that all his early 
 associations were connected with that city and its 
 
 F 
 
 M^ 
 
68 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRDrKA 
 
 III 
 
 \ -i' 
 
 ! ,,! 
 
 - 1 
 
 M 
 
 ) il 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 '{ 
 
 I, ■! 
 
 ,: .'III. 
 
 nc'ijjfhbourliood; lie ])oiii|-c(I out to ino tho lioiHf lie 
 used to live in, and the stream in wliicli lie fislied wlicii 
 a younj^-ster. li'dtimore at tliat time was not one-tliinl 
 of itH present size; but a pretty plaee, surroundei] liy 
 fields and ^^irdens. My friend likewise informed inc 
 tliat the eountry in the vieinity, botli of Washint^ton 
 and Baltimore, was very poor, the soil being light ami 
 nearly worthless without manure. 
 
 ' It was raining hard when we reached Washington. 
 I went to (ladsby's hotel, a great house sonu^ years ago, 
 but (piite commonplace now. J secured a good bed- 
 room, inciuired the English Minister's direction, which I 
 was told was at the corner of K and 2IJrd Streets, and 
 drove in a hack-carriage to the Capitol. 
 
 ' The " Capitol " at Washington is a magnificent white 
 freestone edifice, built in an elevated and conspicuous 
 position ; it greets the eye from every point of approach 
 to the city, and looks down on the straggling town 
 beloAV, with the dignified complacency of a lion regard- 
 ing the sports of a party of puppies. The eastern 
 point is the most magnificent, and is adorned by ;i 
 splendid portico of twenty-two lofty Corinthian columns: 
 two pedestals are left for statues or groups of sculpture, 
 one on each side of the great stone staircase leading to 
 the east portico. One of them is occupied by a well- 
 executed group by an Italian artist, representing a 
 half-naked figure in a crouching attitude, looking 
 half-imploringly and half-admiringly at an armed 
 warrior, who is apparently invoking the assistance of 
 Heaven for some enterprise. The Capitol occupies an 
 
 fli:iii 
 
C^rarOL — WiiSlILNHTON 
 
 g: 
 
 acre and ii h'^lt of ^touhh'I, and a largo hiiildiiii,' is Ix-iiiij 
 constructed oii each winy, whacli »'ill aild matcriaily t(» 
 tlie effect. 
 
 'Tlie < apitol at WaKlunui-on is iindouldedly the 
 liands(>i(i-4 ])id)lic biuldiiij^ in America: it is woi-tliy of 
 the nati«>ii, and of tlie nianwlii>sc city it adonis. It is so 
 admirably situated, and of sucli vast size, as to impress 
 any one, even the most travelled monkey, who had 
 never seen it Itefore. Two rather seedy, but very large 
 starred-and-striped banners were Hoating on the 
 breeze from its roof, and destroying the <>:eneral effect 
 of the edifice they were intended to adorn. 
 
 'The east front is nuicb superior to the west. The 
 building is surrounded by an inclosure, and approached 
 on the west liy a broad avenue, lined witb trees; two 
 fountains adorn the carefully kept grass-plot in front of 
 it: the whole building is surmounted by a dome, which 
 I did not particularly admire. The interior is devoted 
 to the Senate, and House of Ivepresentative ('hand)ers, 
 and to public oftices. In the centre, and lighted by 
 the dome, is a large circular hall, adorned with paint- 
 ings and alto relievos: the pictures, executcnl by 
 Trunibull, represent various scenes ami triumphs in 
 American history, such as "The Presentation of the 
 Declaration of Independence," "Tlie Ivesignation of 
 Cjrnwallis." They appeared to me to be well executed; 
 the fio-ures were as larsije as life. The intermediate 
 spaces and niches over the entrance-doors of the hall 
 are ornamented by alto relievos, representing the 
 rescue of Smith by the interposition of Pocahontaij, Penu 
 
 r 2 
 
 ■.'i: 
 
M; 
 
 6S 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMKA 
 
 111 1 
 
 J 
 
 I i 
 
 i 
 
 ! , 
 
 trontini,' witli tlic Tiidians, S:c. The liall is of strikinuf di- 
 mensions, and f,'rand and iinposint^ in its ^-cniTal effect; 
 visitors, and in fact everyone, Jire admitted into tlio 
 p^allcric^s to lieiir the debates in ])otli llonses. The 
 galleries in th(! Senate J[onse are very small, and will 
 accommodate comparatively few persons; an especial 
 gallery is reserved for lad'es in the House of Represen- 
 tatives, though I should not imagine that they often 
 availed themselves of it. 
 
 *I visited both Chambers, and heard a portion of two 
 debates. In the Lower House they were diseussintj a 
 bill for reciprocity of trade with Canada; and the 
 mem])er {o\w of the Whig party) whom I heard speak, 
 advocated the policy of receiving English goods, and 
 especially iron, free of duty ; on account of the heavy 
 demand made by the custom house in the State, a 
 larger siun was paid, a few years ago, for conveying 
 goods from New York and landing them at New Orleans, 
 than for sending them to Peru. The House of Repre- 
 sentatives contains several hundred members ; they sit 
 on benches arranged in semicircles, and approached 
 from avenues radiating from the Speaker's chair as from 
 a common centre. The Democrats occupy the quadrant 
 on the Speaker's right ; the Whigs, who constitute the 
 minority, that on his left ; a few Democrats, who cannot 
 find seats on their own side, are obliged to occupy those 
 vacant on the other. The hall or chamber is a noble 
 apartment — ninety -six feet long, and sixty high. It is 
 surmounted by a dome, supported by twenty-four 
 columns of dark marble from the neighbourhood of the 
 
 ^ 
 
 C( 
 
THE SKXATE AND lIOUtJE OF llErilE.'JllNTATIVES 
 
 69 
 
 ito the 
 . The 
 nd will 
 'speciiil 
 piesen- 
 y often 
 
 I of two 
 issing a 
 lul the 
 I speak, 
 (Is, and 
 D heavy 
 ^tate, a 
 iiveying 
 )rleans, 
 Repre- 
 they sit 
 iroached 
 ■ as from 
 iiadrant 
 tute the 
 ) cannot 
 ly those 
 a noble 
 1. It is 
 nty-four 
 id of the 
 
 Potonuic, and of the same colour as the {'ohinuis in llic 
 Temple church at London, with ('oriiitlii;in ciipitals of 
 Italian iiiarhle. Tlu! Speaker sits just uudtTthc Luh't's' 
 jrallerv. He sits on a raised and eonnnaiidiu'' scat, 
 hut is not rendered so iiuposin^- a,s our Sju-aker hy tlie 
 robes of authority. In front and below him areliiu-sof 
 reporters. The jj^reat size of the hall, and its lofty ceilinj^, 
 comhiued with a perpetual busy hum of conversation, 
 render it dil^eult to hear the s])eeehes distinctly. I 
 was every way better pleased with the Senate. There, 
 dij^nity, order, and decoruiu seem the ])resi(liuL( ^enii ; 
 the members of the Senate are also older m(>n, noiu; 
 hein"*' eli'dble for election till after the an'e of thirtv-tive: 
 and as their powers are the same, or even "greater, than 
 those (»f the other House, and as they are less nmnerous, 
 they are generally men of greater weight and ability. 
 The members of both Houses are regularly paid during 
 the time Con^rress is sittincf, and their deliberations 
 generallv extend from 11 a.m. till 4 p.m. dailv. On 
 the electicm of anew President, both Houses adjourn till 
 Decendjer, and then commences what is called tlu; long 
 session. They have thus a much easier time of it than 
 some of our hard-worked and underpaid public men 
 and politicians. Another peculiarity of the American 
 system is, that men, on accepting office, are by the laws 
 of the constitution obliged to relinquish their seats in 
 Congress. This I think a defect, and a great one ; for 
 it is obvious that on the election of a new President of 
 different politics to the one preceding, all the officials, 
 who of course are supposed to be selected for ability, 
 
 F 3 
 
70 
 
 CANADA AND THE CI?IMEA 
 
 1 ' 
 
 H 
 
 ; i 
 
 I 1 
 I 
 
 serving imdcr his ])redecessor, are obliged to resign, and 
 have to strn<wle tiiron«xh another eleetionto get restored 
 to their seats "n Congress. If they fail, their services 
 are lost to the country ; and thns a nnniber of able and 
 willin<i- men are wasting their sweetness and their 
 strength in the desert air, or on the promotion of their 
 private interest, when they might have been beneficially 
 gniding and dir( eting the vessel of the State. 
 
 ' Thedel)ate in the Senate was on a bill passed by the 
 other llonse for transferring the management of the 
 pnblic armonries from the Ordnanc Corps to eivilians 
 appointed by Government. I heard (leneral Cass (so 
 celebrated for his animns against England) speak. He 
 was bnsily engaged in consulting authorities before rising, 
 and made statements and <|uotations from them in his 
 addiess. The subject was not of .'i nature to call forth 
 any particidar display of eloquence; and from the 
 manner in which he spoke, I should not think that 
 (xeneral Cass was ever an eloquent man. Jle is stout, 
 ratlu'r tall, red faced, and corpulent. He is a little fussy 
 in manner, and I should think irritable. His appear- 
 ance would not impress a stranger with the idea of a 
 man of ability. 
 
 'The majority of the speakers were against the measure 
 before the House, and sr^veral amendments for investiga- 
 tion and reports we^'e liiade. The Ordnance Corps was 
 spoken of in terms of praise, and the efficiency of the 
 armouries strongly dwelt on. The votes of the Senate 
 were taken while I was ])resent. The House divided on 
 several amendments, and when the aves and noes seemed 
 
GENERAL ArrEARANCE OF WASHINGTON 
 
 71 
 
 nearly e(|iuil, another division was called fur, and eacli 
 party showed its nund)ers distinctly by rising alternately 
 from their seats. The Vice-President for the time being 
 is Speaker of the f-Vnate. 
 
 ' When I again emerged into the open air, after wit- 
 nessing these interesting proceedings, I walked np an 
 avenue, opposite the east front of the Capitol, and 
 adinh'ed its noble proportions from a distance. Opposite 
 the front is a large white marble statue of Washinulon, 
 in a sitting posture and, with little superfluous drapery. 
 The figure is noble and commanding, but nut pleasing. 
 
 ' After discussing a dozen oysters, 1 commenced a walk 
 down Pennsylvania Avenue, the great promenade, for the 
 hiiuse of our ^Minister Plenipotentiary. Tiie road led 
 past the " White House," the official residence of the 
 President, and about a mile from the CapitoU 
 
 ' It is a handsome structure, and has a fine portico, 
 supported by columns of the Ionic order : two large 
 buildings, the offices and lodgings of officials, are situ- 
 ated near its \\ings. 
 
 'AH the public buildings in Washington are hand- 
 some, some of them niagnirtcent; they present a 
 marked contrast to the general appearance uf the city. 
 
 'Any one viewing Washington from an elevation, 
 would say, in the words of Scripture, these people "began 
 to build, but are not able to finish." The whole citv 
 is laid out n\ a gigantic scale ; broad avenues, inter- 
 sected by otaers at right angles, extend for nules ; but 
 the houses an' few, small, and far between, like tlu; jdums 
 in a school pudding. Pennsylvania Avenue contains 
 
 F 4 
 
 '/ \ 
 
 i'l 
 
 S 
 
m ¥ 
 
 72 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 iiili ^1 
 
 : i 
 
 I ! « 
 
 !' i 
 
 I 
 
 nearly uUtlie private l)uil(liiii;-s of any pretension. Tlie 
 city is not advantag'eously situated for trade; and, in 
 tlie present state of America, it is not to be wondered 
 at if Yankees decline to settle down in a "location" 
 where they cannot accnmidate dollars with rapidity. 
 
 ' The city is of course crowded to overflowing at the 
 time of a President's inan;j;-uration ; and at the present, 
 more than an}^ other, the hotels have been thronged by 
 swarms of office-hunters, Avho worry and run the poor 
 President-elect to earth most mercilessly. General 
 Pierce I believe, turns a deaf ear to their cries, and the 
 practice is one which tends to lower the American 
 nation in the eyes of the world. I heard it severely 
 commented on in the Senate, and denounced in the 
 above terms. Our ^Minister at AVashinaton lives in a 
 rather seedy house, about a mile from the President's 
 jdjode ; his door was opened by a dirty man-servant, 
 into whose paw I thrust a card, and retired rather 
 chagrined at the poor tigure cut by the representative 
 of En Hand. 
 
 '^ Feb. '1-iih. — Rose about half-past five, and was ready 
 before six to start for the steamer. The hack-carriage 
 that had been ordered for me did not arrive; and I was 
 indebted to the charity of a paddy for a seat on the box 
 of another. The nigger driver, my Hibernian told me, 
 had not come out on account of the coldness of the 
 morning ; I suppose tlie frosty air does not agree with 
 Sambo's complexion. The weather was certainly very cold, 
 the wind cutting and searching, particularly disagree- 
 ■i.ble to an nnbreakfasted traveller, in an exposed position. 
 
 •.-ii 
 
RAILWAY TRAVELLING 
 
 73 
 
 *Tlie Banks of the Potomac are pretty, but rather 
 inonotouous. " Washiiit^to!i House," at Alount Veriiou, 
 is situated on the right bank of tlie river, aljout live 
 miles from the city ; it is a good-sized, plaiu-h)okiii;^' 
 l)uil(ling, probably considered a mansion when Washing- 
 ton occupied it. The tomb of the " father of his 
 country" is situated near the house; it is a plain red 
 brick monument, scarcely visible from the water ; the 
 house and property belong to the United States, having 
 been purchased by Congress. A high wind, which blew 
 uninternuttently all the morning, liad driven so nuich 
 water out of the creek, that our boat stuck in the mud 
 within a few yards of our landing-place. The tide was 
 not expected to rise, so the passengers and mails were 
 landed in boats, the luggage left behind, and the train, 
 after two hours' delay, proceeded onwards to Kichmmul. 
 The railway trams are merely flat pieces (.)f iron nailed 
 down to planks resting on sleepers, and if traverst'd at 
 great speed, would probably curl up; liftei^n miles an 
 hour is considered the correct pace. Very slow in these 
 days, and productive of expressions of impatience from 
 travellers, pampered by superior methods of annihi- 
 lating distance. We passed through an luidulating and 
 pretty country ; here and there might be seen the rude 
 log shanty of a nigger, and either Sambo or his wife at 
 the door looking at the cars. We stopped nowhere 
 for refreshment. The company endeavoured to forget 
 hunger in the enjoyment of apples, which they munched 
 with a vigour worthy of better provender. Some en- 
 terprising youths, at the risk of being left behind, con- 
 
i:ii, 
 
 
 74 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 lii! 
 
 I i 
 
 ! ! 
 
 I 
 
 trived to get a drink, but its quality was comforting 
 neither to mind nor body. 
 
 ' We readied Kichmond about G r.M. Drove to tlie 
 Exchange Hotel, a very large one; found it full. ]\Ian 
 at the bar wanted to put me into a room v.ith two 
 others; had visions of spitting, snoring, and infraction 
 of the eighth conunandment, and so refused. Threw 
 myself on his generosity to find me a room to myself 
 in ihe course of the evening, and went to the supper 
 room (having had no dinner during the day), and ex- 
 ercised my jaws on some inferior beef-steak. Walked 
 through Kichmond in the dusk ; appeared a well laid 
 out, pretty place; remarked an extraordinary numljer of 
 chemists' and pastry-cooks' shops — handsome ones, and 
 brilliantly ilhuninated. Listened to the distant murmur 
 of the falls of the James River (on whicli Kichmond is 
 situated), and saw their spray dimly ilhnnined by the 
 pale light of the rising moon. Found the man at the 
 hotel had been w^orthy of my confidence, and had given 
 me a capital room. On the door, a caution was pasted 
 up, " Bolt the door to prevent night robberies ; " com- 
 plied witli the polite re(piest, and shortly afterwards 
 accepted the invitation of " Somnus " to " come to his 
 arms." Knocked up at half-past five, and turned out 
 most imwillingly ; bolted an indigesti])le breakfast, paid 
 my bill, and started for the ]Meechum River railroad. 
 This brings me to — 
 
 ' Feb. '2'jth. — Rapid travelling, early rising, and insuf- 
 ficient dinners, had rather jaded me. When I started 
 this morninLj I had the sensation of one who had been 
 
 .i 
 
 for nigli 
 
 narticul 
 
 pretty f 
 
 itself; 1 
 
 the fatif 
 
 ' I sa) 
 
 tame an 
 
 After tw 
 
 sun cha 
 
 to look { 
 
 ''MyX« 
 
 'The! 
 
 very few 
 
 it is one 
 
 and SOUK 
 
 much frt 
 
 'The( 
 
 ohviousb 
 
 jumbles 
 
 but pass 
 
 tolerable 
 
 them che 
 
 generally 
 
 rustic br 
 
 were cer 
 
 readincf I 
 
 surroundi 
 
 as a deej 
 
 fairer reli 
 
 fancy co: 
 
 ' I 
 
 Ml 
 
ROMANCE AND REALITY 
 
 < J 
 
 for nights running to balls or parties ; in fact I was not 
 narticnlarly disposed to fall into raptures either witli a 
 pretty face or a pretty prospect, liad either presented 
 itself; luckily, however, I was not called upon to undergo 
 the fatigue of admiratiou. 
 
 'I saw with my half-opened eyes that the scenery was 
 tame and monotonous, and so closed them altogether. 
 After two or three hours' travel, the bright rays of the 
 sun chased away my drowsiness, and I aroused myself 
 to look at the passeugers antl the country, and to read 
 "My Novel;" I was most pleased with the latter. 
 
 'The.Meechum Ferry railway carries, I shoidd imagine, 
 very few passengers in the winter time; in the summer 
 it is one of the most convenient routes from the North, 
 and some portion of the South, to the Virginia Springs — 
 much frequented during tlie month t)f August. 
 
 'The defects of the American system of travellinii* arc 
 obviously seen in inferior railroads. A system which 
 jumbles up all classes must be always objectionable; 
 hut passengers between largo cities or towns are more 
 tolerable than those in the country, as though many of 
 them chew and spit in a most revolting manner, they 
 generally pay more attention to soapand water than their 
 rustic brethren; a few of my fellow-passengers to-da}', 
 were certainly not perfumed with millefleur. Fancy 
 reading Bulwer's beautiful and imaginative descriptions 
 surrounded by such Goths and Vandals! They served 
 as a deep shadow to bring out in still l^righter and 
 fairer relief the forms ami figures of those whom my 
 fancy conjured up from Bulwer's magic page. The 
 
 I \' 
 
7G 
 
 CANADA ANP THE CRIMEA 
 
 I ' 
 
 11 
 
 
 (liirk-cycd, liigli-soukMl, glorious Violante, and tlic sweet, 
 tender Helen, wliat more tlian angels did they appear, 
 wlien I glanced from tlie pag(; which ])roiight thcni 
 brightly and vividly before my mind's eye, to the ruffian 
 forms around me I 
 
 ' About one o'clock we reached a small tow^n called 
 Charlotte's ville, w^here we stopped for a few minutes, 
 and where I oiujht to have got out to dinner. I 
 speculated, however, on feeding at IMeechum's Ferry 
 before continuing my journey to Staunton by the stage. 
 Little did I know what was in st(jre for me I When we 
 readied Meechum's Kiver, we found a stage ready to 
 take us on. An American stage is a large, heavy, lum- 
 bering vehicle, constructed to hold nin6 inside and two 
 out : the insides are packed together something in the 
 fashion of clothes in a carpet-bag; that is to say, they 
 are well crammed in, and pressed down. I managed 
 to insert my body into a vacant seat, with my back to 
 the horses ; and having disposed of my legs in as satis- 
 factory a manner as circumstances would admit of (and 
 seriously I advise no man of more than five feet ten inches 
 to venture into an American stage). I looked at my 
 fellow-passengers ; two pale, sickly-looking women and 
 a man, the husband probably of one of them, occupied 
 the back seat ; in front of them, /. e. in the centre of the 
 stage, and with their backs resting against a leathern 
 strap, sat three men, respectable, ordinary, w^ell-washed 
 looking personages ; and on my side were two other men, 
 probably small farmers, or y)ig-drivers by profession. 
 
 'I tried to sret a mouthful to eat or drink, as I 
 
 . > 
 
 had br( 
 
 ([iiite 11 
 
 and bod 
 
 of heiiv^ 
 
 fu'si, ai 
 
 Anieric; 
 
 winter. 
 
 were bo 
 
 which ai 
 
 wc shou 
 
 slow rat( 
 
 nienced 
 
 anecdote 
 
 his conj'c 
 
 the state 
 
 pears th; 
 
 of this 1 
 
 ?al)le by 
 
 soon aff( 
 
 resemble 
 
 frozen, a 
 
 hollows A 
 
 from sid( 
 
 denlythe 
 
 balanced 
 
 be in the 
 
 violent t 
 
 congratu' 
 
 proceed i 
 
 in little : 
 
 ■ s 
 
 t f ' 
 
AN AMERICAN STAGE-COACII 
 
 » I 
 
 liad breakfasted at six, and it was now two, but was 
 ([uite unsuccessful. Away we started, after tlie roof 
 and boot of our "vehicle" had ])c'en tilled with a mass 
 of heavy lugi>"age ; and then bcji^^an my miseries and my 
 fii'st, and I trust last, experience of the felicities of 
 American sta^^e-travellinn' over ccnmtry roads in the 
 winter. We left Meechum's Iviver at about 2 r.^r., and 
 were bound for ►Staunton, twenty-ei^ht iniles distant, 
 which any reasonable human being would have sup|)osed 
 we should have readied in four or five hours, even at a 
 slowM'ate of travel. One of my friends opposite com- 
 menced an animated conversation, t(^ld several pleasing 
 anecdotes of upsets, and breakdowns, and then gave us 
 his conjecture, founded on hearsay and experience, as to 
 the state of the road wo were about to traverse. It ap- 
 pears that the road is tolerable in summer (th>>ugh even 
 of this I am sceptical), but is rendered nearly impas- 
 sal)le by the winter rains. A practical illustration was 
 soon afforded us of its condition. The road somewhat 
 resembled a ph)ughed field ; its deep ruts were partially 
 frozen, and the wheels slipped off their crests into the 
 hollows with mighty jolts: the stage vibrated and swung 
 from side to side on its heavy leathern springs. Sud- 
 denly there was atrcmeiidous jolt — thecoach seemed just 
 balanced on two wheels, and the next moment likely to 
 be in the mud. A short plunge, a struggle, a series of 
 violent throes and convulsions, and we are saved, and 
 congratulate ourselves on having a good driver ; we 
 proceed at a snail's pace; we have got over three miles 
 in little more than an hour, and my companions are 
 
 ■T 
 
78 
 
 CANADA AXn THE CIUMEA 
 
 I! 
 
 a \ 
 
 is - 
 
 
 I 
 
 ;-| iji. 
 
 ■I 
 
 conf|^ratul;itinL( oik; another on the ra])idity with wliir-li 
 we ai'c travclliiiL,': tlie joltiiii^-, ])iiiii]>iiii;, and sqiieeziii.; 
 continue. One old sta;jft'r tries to fall nslee]), and his 
 
 head 
 
 about like a CI 
 
 ad wans aDour liKe a i iiinese nmire. i <cet into con- 
 
 fii 
 
 I <ret int( 
 
 versation with the man opposite me : he proves to l)c an 
 engineer on a railway — a most desirable one- — intendcil 
 to coimect the ])oint we liave left with that to which we 
 are travellinjj;. This railway passes under the Viri>ininu 
 hills, 'i'he eULiineer told me that they were construetiiiL' 
 a tunnel which would 1)0 al)out a mile and a lialf lont,% 
 throu^rh a hill of what he calh'd iron stone — harder than 
 the hanh'st c^rauite. Their proi^ress was necessarily slow 
 on account of tlf difficulty of working the rock. To sink 
 shafts for the nect'ssary supply of air was next to impos- 
 sible; thus, conse(|uently, they were much inconvenienced 
 by the want of this real " staff of life,'" and were oblij^-ed 
 to "raise the wind," or keep things goini:;- by means of 
 an air-pump. 
 
 ' We passed several little villages of clean, comforta1>]c- 
 looking Irish huts and shanties built on the hill-side. 
 Cows an<l piu's were occasionally visible, but I do not 
 suppose the latter animal's claim to the best part of the 
 lodging would be allowed, as he does not here pay the 
 best part of the *'7^'//f." The Irish labourers get a 
 dollar a day, and are very provident and saving ; most of 
 them, as my informant told me, are toleral)ly well 
 educated, and can nearly all read and write. Tliev 
 mostly live (Ui beef: in the sunnner they kill an ox. 
 wait till he is f/ami/, and then cut him up and eat him. 
 The engineer remarked particularly on that peculiar 
 
 ohtaine 
 and ve 
 must b 
 place w 
 get a c( 
 the den 
 able su 
 flounde 
 road, ai 
 means 
 lialtin<>-- 
 system < 
 our leaf 
 cunistai 
 to])pl('d 
 'ilad 
 chests, ] 
 undoubi 
 were in j 
 praise wc 
 returnee 
 with ha 
 Tlie bo( 
 hroken i 
 for it ; ;i 
 we resi] 
 with eve 
 deep nn 
 
A imEAK DOWN 
 
 imd his 
 to t'un- 
 ) 1)(' an 
 itendcil 
 licli we 
 iri>iui;ui 
 nu'tiii^ 
 lit" lontj:, 
 \vr than 
 •ily sl(AV 
 
 To sink 
 ) impos- 
 niienced 
 
 ol)liu'('il 
 leans of 
 
 brta1>le- 
 lill-side. 
 do not 
 •t of the 
 pay the 
 s iret a 
 most of 
 ly well 
 They 
 an ex. 
 eat him. 
 peculiar 
 
 m 
 
 hi 
 
 eliararteristic of poor Irisli <,nr]s, even wlien exposed to 
 the jn'reatest tenifttations — tlieir eiiastity : tiiry liave 
 ohtaiiied a high cliaractcr in tlie States for iliis virtue, 
 and very few (^f tlie i,nrls in the larL^'e hotels, where tiiey 
 must be a great d(>al exposed, liave been bodueed. At a 
 place wliere we stopped to change hoi'ses, I managed to 
 get a eou[)le of l>iscuits and a piece of cheese to appease 
 the demon ; and at about lialf-jjast seven had a miser- 
 able supper at a dirty i)ui. It was dark, and our position, 
 floiuuleriuii' along, wedged together, over an execrable 
 road, and expecting every moment to l)e u[»set, by no 
 means an envialile one. About a nule from our last 
 halting-place, we found ourselves upon a sujier-exci llent 
 system of ruts, and the shackle which supported orie of 
 our h'ather springs, yielding t(» weight and force <d" cir- 
 cumstances, broke witl' a crash, and the coach nearly 
 to])pled over. 
 
 'l[a(l not our engineer, with three tremendous 
 chests, probably contaiidng furniture, left us, we should 
 undoubtedly have been deposited in the mud: as it was, we 
 were in a nice fix. The driver, however, took things with 
 praiseworthy coolness, left the stage for assistance, and 
 returned with a negro blacksmith, two or three men 
 with handspikes, a chain, and s(jme lueifer matches. 
 The body of the coach was slioved up by levers, the 
 broken iron shackle removed, and the chain substituted 
 for it ; and after about three-quarters of an hour's delay, 
 we resimied our journey. Finally, after struggling 
 with every description of bad road, ruts, holes, stones, 
 deep nuul and clay, pools, and frozen clods, we found 
 
-I 
 
 80 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 N ll 
 
 I'. I 
 
 onr.solves at Stiiuiiton, tolemMy cxliaustcnl, at half-past 
 1 1 r.M., after a journey of nine and a lialf lion is. I 
 walked uhoiit five miles, partly up liill and partly over 
 .some road which exceeded all the rest in badness. 
 
 ' 'J'lie scenery among the hills through which we passed 
 was romantic and prcstty, and thougii not so grand, re- 
 minded me somewhat of the Western lEighlauds of 
 Scotland. 
 
 'Tlic eastern portion of America along the Atlantic 
 coast, and in the vicinity of the large cities, is so flat 
 iuid monr)tonous, that a hill of any description is greeted 
 by the traveller as a pleasing and agreeable variety ; the 
 slopes afford good pasturage for sheep, and are many of 
 them covered with wood, principally pine. I was very 
 glad to roll my bed-clothes round me, and court the 
 drowsy god. 
 
 i 
 
 STAUN'T 
 DISAC 
 AND 
 
 THE 
 H( 
 
 rate at v 
 "New 1 
 to our " 
 ever, wh 
 I heliev( 
 in all foi 
 of Engla 
 given he 
 that thej 
 terestincr 
 I great al 
 harrister; 
 was all tl 
 ^Vasliino- 
 I had he; 
 C'xtremel^ 
 the sumn 
 
 
 1 ^ 
 
81 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 STAUNTON. — LEXINOTOX. — AX UNPLEASANT RIPE AXD A 
 DISAGREEAHLE ADVEXTUUE. — VISIT TO lIARrEIl's FERRY, 
 AND RETURN TO WASHIXGTON. 
 
 ' rpHE United States is a country great in newspapers. 
 -L How the multitude published can pay at the low 
 rate at which they arc sold is a matter of wonder. Tlie 
 "New York Herald, '" occupies a place somewhat similar 
 to our "giant of tiic press.*' It has more rivals, how- 
 ever, who assert claims to e<iualify than our "Times." 
 I hclieve the " Times " in America, and I fancy generally 
 in all foreign countries, is looked on as the ^' vo,r popuJ i"'" 
 of England. The reports of speeches and trials are not 
 given here with anything lik<' the fulness and accuracy 
 that they are in England. I was present at a very in- 
 teresting trial where the prisoner was defended with 
 great ability and eloquence by one of the leading 
 barristers at New York ; but a bare statement (jf fact 
 was all that appeared in the public papers; and when at 
 WashiuLrton I referred to them to read over the debate 
 I had heard on the previous evening, I found the report 
 extremely meagre and defective, something similar to 
 the summary of parliamentary intelligence in our papers. 
 
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 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBS1 9 N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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 82 
 
 CANADA AND TTIK CRniEA 
 
 
 ; ■■ I 
 
 
 
 The American journals are principally filled with foreii^n 
 intelligence, and comments thereon, lu'cciviiii; Tiiails 
 from Europe two or three times every week, with a vast 
 mass of complex politics, and of tlie ahlest criticisms on 
 men, measures and events, liavin^' merely to c\iU niid 
 .select the flowers from this rich and fertile field, tliov 
 are at no loss to fill their columns with both interesting 
 and attractive matter. Extracts from wliat they always 
 call the " London Times," with its views on the unent 
 (|uestions and events of the day, whether as affecting 
 themselves or the continent of Europe, furnish a kind 
 of theme for dissertations and remarks of their own. 
 Besides this, from their geographical p(jsition, tiny 
 are of course abundantly and constantly supjtlied with 
 news of all that is going on, or looming in the future 
 of the Western hemisphere. In fact, news from Mew 
 Orleans, or other distant points of the t'nion, amounts 
 very nearly to the same thing as foreign intelligence. 
 The leading journal, which I mentioned above, seems to 
 take conciliating views of English |)(jlicy, and of the in- 
 tercourse between P]ngland ami America. In the mind 
 of a sensible or enlightened man, a rupture between tlic 
 two countries would be not only destructive and ruinous 
 to each as a nation, but would inflict a severe blow oii 
 the principles of liberty, constitutional right, and good 
 government. The lower sort of Yankees are a swaLrixering, 
 conceited set of fellows, and John r.ull has a pretty gouJ 
 notion of his own prowess; but hapjiily it is not permitted 
 to these belligerent gentlemen to settle their disputed 
 points in their own savage or school-boy fashion. 
 
■\ 
 
 VIRGINIAN WAGGONS 
 
 83 
 
 * Staunton is a pretty villnnfe, surrounded by liills; 
 and when the raih'oad connecting- it with Kichniond 
 i-; completed, will lie a place (if importance, as it lies 
 near one extremitv of the n^reat a-jfricultural vallev of 
 Vjp^inia. At present it is a century behind the North- 
 ern States. A traveller in a few hours perceives the 
 \a<t difference in the proi^ress of civilisation between 
 the two sections of tlic I'luon. After travel I inij throuirh 
 the North witli speed, punctuality, and comparative 
 bixuiT, he finds liimself, when ordy a few miles from 
 tiic licaten tracks of human intercourse, contending 
 with bad roads, bad inns, dilatoriness, and otiiuii sine 
 (li;/it't(ll('. 
 
 'Tiie old-fashioned plan of travellini;' on horsel)ack is 
 still adhered to, and is common in Virufinia. Mrtdnian 
 wa'4i,^ons, havino- the to]) covered with wdiite sail-cloth, 
 l)iiii(; drawn bv six horses, mav be seen creepinir alon*: 
 the roads. A nii^ger rides one of the wheelers, and with 
 oulyny/^' rein attached to a leader, contrives to guide the 
 whole team. ()rii,dnal, clumsy, and picturesque they 
 look, slowly coming into view at the turn of a country 
 road, with the sun shinini>' brii-htlv on their snowv cover- 
 iug; and they speak strongly, and w^ith incontroverti])le 
 evidence of tiie comparatively slow^ progress of the people 
 who use them. Virginia is, how^'ver, awakening from 
 lier sleep. Ivailways are being constructed across her 
 ill all dircictions ; the spirit of ente^rprise is shedding its 
 uwakenintr iiiHuence over the dormant energies of 
 her [)opnlation, and she will soon be what her size, 
 climate, and natural advantages seem to foretel, oue of 
 
 G 2 
 
 \^M 
 
 
 i^' 
 
 • Ml 
 
 ,1 
 
 ! i 
 
 1- 
 
T' f 
 
 84 
 
 CANADA AND TTIE CRIMEA 
 
 I [■' 
 
 ,- i 
 
 t 1 
 
 i i 
 
 the greatest and most flourishing States of the Union. 
 The white population of Virginia consi(iera})ly exceeds 
 her black ; and her soil being principally cultivated for 
 grain, or producing pasture for sheep and cattle, there 
 are but few regular plantations, where slaves drudge, 
 and toil like farm-horses. I saw an advertisement in 
 the inn at Staunton offering a reward for a runaway 
 negro boy; but I should think that in this State, thougli 
 there are more facilities to escape, the inducements to 
 do so are less than those farther South. An intelligent 
 mulatto driver, who pleased and interested me, said be 
 had requested his mistress to allow him to go to Siberia. 
 Hearing I was an Englishman, he asked if they were not 
 against slavery in England, and if Canada were not a free 
 State? I told him that Canada was a British colony. 
 and all British colonies were free. He said he should 
 much like to go there. I asked him if he were married ; 
 he answered, " Yes." Have you got any children ? 
 *' No, there is only me and my wife." His mistress, a 
 widow lady, made a profit out of him by letting him 
 out to drive and do jobs. The man was not only intel- 
 ligent, but courteous and gentle in manner. He had 
 evidently a great deal of white blood (the element of 
 freedom) in his veins. He was a fine-looking fellow, 
 upwards of six feet high. I really felt interested in 
 him, and f(;ll into a painful reverie on the evils of a 
 system which degrades what God has made noble. 
 The day will come when the mulattos, illegitimate 
 offspring though they be, will prove themselves their 
 fathers' sons. In my opinion, the event must take 
 
 1^ 
 
A MULATTO COACHMAN 
 
 85 
 
 place in the natural order of things. Here was a man, 
 sensible of his degraded position, keenly desirous of 
 freedom, hearing with delight of those lands where 
 slavery is unknown, intelligent enough to perceive the 
 injustice of the system which oppressed him, and to 
 feel that, if he rebelled, he would not sin, but assert a 
 right, which the God who made all has given to all, — 
 here was a man, a type of a numerous and rapidly-in- 
 creasing class it the South, in whose mind was laid a 
 train, which it required only circumstances and oppor- 
 tunity to fire, — a man who would fight, as the Greeks 
 of old fought, under the watchwords of liberty, and 
 right. 
 
 'The coach which was to convey me to Lexington at 
 length got uuder weigh ; I mourned on the box to enjoy 
 the sunshine, and to see the country. Our first sixteen 
 miles was over a terrible road, and we took about four 
 and a half hours to traverse it. The rest of our journey 
 was over planks, which appeared by contrast like a 
 sudden transportation to Elysium, after the cares, 
 troubles, and contentions of life. I walked over four 
 miles of the worst part of the road. My driver was a 
 good, honest fellow ; had driven the stage along that 
 road for twenty-eight years, and had just earned enough 
 to bring up, and educate his children. He made some 
 sensible and intelligent remarks on the advantages of 
 education, and seemed fully to comprehend the value of 
 the gift bestowed by his exertions on his family. In 
 America, education, if combined with energy, application, 
 and good sense, is wealth to its possessor. Hundreds of 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 i 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 ' 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 ^1 
 
80 
 
 CANADA AND THE CKIMnA 
 
 (' l- 
 
 roads are open to every man for free and g'enerous coin- 
 petitioii — tlie true source of much of the greatness and 
 pros])erity of a nation. 
 
 * Ah my time was very limited, and travelling in tlic 
 part of the country I had arrived at l)oth slow, and un- 
 certain, I hired a waggon to drive me to the Natural 
 Bridge, — distant, by the best road, about seventeen miles 
 from Lexington. The morning was warm, bright, and 
 cheerful. A hazy appearance in the distance, however, 
 seemed to indicate rain. ^ly carriage was announced. 
 I walked out, and ])eheld a waggon painted with three 
 coats of natural brown from the nuiddy rcxids, with the 
 sorriest Rozinante I had ever seen. A stalwart ninicer, 
 with husfe black moustaches and beard, — who looked hi"- 
 enough and stronix enou^di to carry horse, wan'tron, and 
 all, — supported the trembling steed by the head, and 
 replied to my inquiries as to when the animal had last 
 dined with an indignant assurance that he was well fed, 
 and could go well. I submitted to my fate, though I 
 was not without feelings of compunction at inflicting 
 seventeen miles on a bony anatomy, refpdring not a 
 day's, but a week's rest. 
 
 *I drove steadily, and quietly at first, and endeavoured 
 to excite my steed to action l)y words of encourage- 
 ment ; but tliis was jirobably so new to him, that he 
 did not know what to make of it, and little or no alter- 
 ation in his sober and solemn gait took place. The last 
 resource was, I regret to say, applied ; and it generally 
 elicited a melancholy shake of the ears, and the ghost 
 of a canter. The country through which I passed 
 
 I': 
 
THE NATI'RAL BRIDGE 6 7 
 
 wns t)iP snmo in character (tliouL^h perhaps ratlicr of 
 a j^raiuler description) as that througli wliich 1 had 
 journeyed on the [)revious (hiy. A series of liills \vit}) 
 curved outlines greeted the eye on all sides. There was 
 an ahsencf.' of that l)oldness "which characterises the Avihl 
 iiiountain scenery of Scotland, where the dark rocky 
 masses stand out against the? ])lue sky in sharp, clear 
 lines. They hear the same analogy to the wild hills of 
 Caledonia that the soft, rounded outline of a woman's 
 form does to the hold, angular tigure of a man. 
 
 ' I encountered difficulties of every kind on the road, 
 was nearly upset two or three times, and o])liged to 
 refresh my I)ob})in with a drink of meal and water to 
 insure his getting through his lahoiu's at all. 
 
 'The Natural l^ridge is situated in a deep vnlle}-, 
 among some fine hills. It spans an insignificant little 
 hruuk about fifty feet wide. The bridge is a vast lime- 
 stone arch 215 feet high, 80 feet broad, and H5 feet 
 long. Tlie arch has the appearance of having been 
 gradually excavated by the continual action of water; 
 and this supposition is in some degree confirmed by the 
 great height of the banks of the streandet, which are 
 composed of the same rock, and rise nearly perpendicu- 
 larly from the water in the vicinity of the bridge. Can 
 it be possible that the little ])rook, which now ripples 
 peacefully at your feet, could once have been a mighty 
 river, and have burst with irresistible violence the oppos- 
 ing barrier ? The rock in other places has crumbled 
 and fallen, and may have been preserved from the same 
 fate here merely by superior hardness. There is some- 
 
 I I 
 
 ;!: 
 
il'l V : I 
 
 jlf'12 
 
 86 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 >ii:|i ii 
 
 1.1,1 
 
 1 ' 
 
 fi : >} 
 
 i:e /'till 
 
 |; 5 '; (i 
 
 'f , 
 
 thing wild, grand, and impressive in that gigantic, 
 lonely arch standing unchanged in solitary grandeur 
 after the lapse of ages — a memorial left by nature of 
 some bygone scene in the history of her revulsions. 
 
 ' My predictions regarding rain were mournfully ful- 
 filled. It first drizzled, and then poured. The rain 
 continued all night unintermittently ; and I listened to 
 its heavy pattering on the roof of the crazy old inn witli 
 gloomy forebodings of the difficulties and struggles of 
 the morrow. 
 
 ' I superintended the washing of my poor Rozinante's 
 legs ; and directed he should have a good bed prepared 
 for him, and as much oats as he could eat. 
 
 'The stable in which my unfortunate steed was doomed 
 to pass the night was a construction which would have 
 been called rude even among the ancient Britons. Free 
 admission both for air and rain was afforded by nume- 
 rous yawning gaps and cavities. The wind, in whatso- 
 ever direction it might be blowing, had the privilege of 
 whistling through it ; and the horses (hardy beasts ! ) 
 stood there without a scrap of clothing, and lay down 
 on the hard boards at night to repose. I wish I could 
 have transported an English groom to this savage spot. 
 His astonishment might have helped me through a 
 dreary afternoon. 
 
 * This afternoon, however, did not pass without an in- 
 cident in which I myself figured as the astonished party. 
 I was the only visitor at the inn ; no one in his senses 
 thinking of going to the Natural Bridge in the winter 
 time. Several gentlemen of the neighbourhood, how- 
 
A DISAGREEABLE ADVENTURE 
 
 89 
 
 ever, — probal^ly accordiug to their usual Sabbath cus- 
 tom, — had repaired thitlier on horseback to dine together. 
 One of these, the biggest and sturdiest of tlie party, 
 went down to dinner drunk and quarrelsome. ] f e sat 
 exactly opposite me, and stared rudely and stupidly at 
 me for some time. He at length asked me, in a rough 
 manner, where I came from. I told him, and he ate 
 two or three mouthfuls of his dinner, pausing between 
 each to continue his steady stare. At last he suddenly 
 stopped and said, abruptly, " Come here." I thought at 
 first he might be speaking to a waiter behind me, and 
 looked round ; but he instantly repeated the command, 
 pointing to a chair next to him, and saying, " Come 
 here; I want to talk to you." I answered, as coolly as 
 I could, " No, thank you ; I prefer sitting here and eat- 
 ing my dinner, and I advise you to go on with yours. 
 If you want to talk to me, I can hear what you have to 
 say just as well where I am." This produced a vacant, 
 stupid look, and a short silence. One of the hotel 
 people came up and apologised to me for the conduct 
 of ray friend (?), saying he was not aware of his being 
 so drunk, and begging of me to take no notice of what 
 he said. I saw alarm depicted on every countenance. 
 
 'My toper grasped his knife, poised it carelessly, direct- 
 ing the point towards me, as if with intent to throw it 
 at me. I was exactly opposite, and though I did not 
 much dread a drunken man's shot with a blunt knife, I 
 was anxious to avoid a scene in a low, out-of-the-way 
 place, where there were few who would sympathise 
 much with me, though they might assist me if I were 
 
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 CANADA AND THE COIMEA 
 
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 assaulted. T kiu.'W di-unkcn incu liiivc n ifrcat deal of 
 sense, and are capable (»t" liein;^' aiiiu.sed by a litt It- 
 talk; so 1 said to the brute oj)i)(>site uie, "Why do 
 you want to (juarrtd with lue? Did you ever see iin- 
 before? Then what reason iiave you for wishing,' tu 
 (juarrel ? " 
 
 'Tiie knife remained poised in the hand ; I finished 
 my dinner and left the tal)le, my brandy-and-water 
 friend being held back by tlie others from making a 
 rush at me. He was very noisy and troublesome for 
 some time, but at last went home. 1 heard he was a 
 doctor, and a perfect gentleman ! when he was sober. 
 
 * 8andjo woke me, and I rose sleepy and unrefreshed. 
 The rain had almost ceased ; soon it discontinued alto- 
 gether. I sw^allowed a cup of tea, ate a mouthful of 
 bread, cast a doubtful look at poor Do]>bin, paid my 
 bill for a day's discomfort, and started. 
 
 ' A benevolent individual at the inn recommended me 
 to g(j home by a road different from the one I came 
 by. I followed liis advice, and got into an old and 
 almost impassable cross country road, and never thought 
 
 I should get out of it. About four hours and a half were 
 consumed in accomplishing the first fourteen miles of 
 my journey to Staunton. I reached Lexington at about 
 
 II A.M., and wished, after breakfast, to have proceeded 
 at once, but was kept waiting for about an hour for a 
 carriage, wdiich I had ordered at half-past 9 A.M. The 
 day was Court day, a great and busy day at Lexington. 
 Sales by auction were going on, and the place in a state 
 of bustle, confusion and excitement. These Court days 
 
TRAVELLING UNDKR DIFFICTLTIES 
 
 •J I 
 
 coiiu' r(»iui(l nt tlio ('ommcncrMiu.it of nu'li moutli, .'iiul 
 (lcl)ts arc jt.iid jiiid l)iirguiiis niadr <»ii flu; (tccasioii. 
 
 'Tlic ;ii rival of iiiv carri.'ii'e, drawn bv iincvenlv 
 iiiiitclKHl hor.ses, rclievrd at last my almost oxliaiisteil 
 patience. 
 
 'Twenty miles of our journey lay over plank-road, 
 the rest ovei' jtoojs, aud ruts, nnd mud, which rt-ally diil 
 lint deserve to be dignified bv the title of ro;id at all. 
 .My poor horses ( I coidd L(et no cluin^'t? on the road) 
 ^^t re nearly done u]>, and I was pretty tire(l myself 
 wliiii T reached Staunton, at }ialf-i)ast 7 P.M. 
 
 M had supper (which was also dinner and tea, as I 
 had eaten nothinj;" since breakfast), and tui-ued in for 
 finu' or five liours' rest. 1 went to Ijed a little after nine, 
 and was again awaked, at half-past 12 4'.M., to start by 
 the Winchester coach, which left at one in the morning. 
 
 '■ MiU'cJi. l,s(f. — In the lumbering old coacli was onlv 
 (lue passenger besides myself. Went off into a kind 
 of doze ; night fine, and moon shining when we started ; 
 clouded over, and commenced raining soon after. After 
 some unwholesome and indigestil)le scraps at a dirty 
 iini, at one o'clock, which passed for a dimier, coach at 
 length became full. A negress and her baby sat oppo- 
 site to me, and ol)liged me to keep my face turned to 
 the open window. Do these people ever wash ? Two 
 dirty agriculturists, in damp clothes, forced themselves 
 ill ; and a vulgar woman with a frightful cough, and a 
 wet bundle and bonnet-l)ox. In stage-travelling in the 
 States, more than in railways, you see the discomforts 
 of democracy. I wi h a few theorists wMjuld condescend 
 to jostle awhile with the " o< ttoXAoj," they would then 
 
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93 
 
 CANADA AM) THE CRIMEA 
 
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 see the cap of liberty grimy with filth. There cm he 
 no equality unless all men use Hoap and water, and 
 certainly but WiiXa f rater] ml affect ion Itetween a j^cutlc- 
 man with imniacuhite linen and the great *' unwashed." 
 The road passed through a rich agricultural country, 
 wdiere I was told some of the finest wheat in Americii 
 was raised. The farms are very large, and but little 
 manure used ; guano is occasionally employed. Tlio 
 soil is not so rich as in Winconsin, where it is, if pos- 
 sible, too prolific, and of inexhaustible fertility. The 
 climate here is, hijwever, much henlthier, and the Airiiis 
 nearer the great markets. 
 
 * Left Winchester at 8 p.m., in the railway cars, for 
 Harper's Ferry ; distance, thirty-two miles ; took three 
 hours to go there ; line out of order, and engines feeble, 
 as usual. Put into a miserable room, as cold as ice, 
 with no fireplace nor chairs, and with dirty, cracked 
 walls. Could have slept on a deal board. Coiled the 
 clothes round me, and when the candle was out, discom- 
 fort was banished. 
 
 ^ March 2nd. — Dressed, and left my dismal apart- 
 ment between seven and eight ; breakfasted on some 
 greasy viands, and walked out. The day was lovely, 
 and the air delightful. 
 
 ' A gentleman, who, on the previous evening, had 
 ■professed himself to be an Ultra Democrat, and had 
 received a few languid attempts at jocularity on my 
 'part with roars of laughter, requested me, on my arrival 
 at Horper's Ferry, to introduce myself to a relation of 
 his, who rejoiced in the name of Snooks, and pursued 
 
 ili^'t' 
 
HAnrKlUS FERRY 
 
 93 
 
 tlio avocation of a boot-makor. Snooks's disposition, 
 lie told nu', ^vas most aiiiiable ; and his (lflii;ht at tlic 
 o))j)ortiinity of sliowiiig mo tiic lions, wliicii, without 
 sonic friendly guide, I should he utterly unahle to 
 (lis(;()ver, would be unbounded. I thanked him a hun- 
 dred times, and listened to the praises of the immortal 
 Snooks with the resignation of exhaustion. I believe I 
 Nvas too tired to laugh. My friend got out, and with 
 bini vanished the shade of Snooks. 
 
 'The scenery of Harper's Ferry is very ])eautifid. 
 Nature has done lier part towards rendering the spot 
 both attractive and interesting; dkoi lias done his 
 towards thwarting her benevolent designs. He crosses 
 the two romantic "shining rivers"' on railway bridges 
 like sheds, superlatively hideous ; and lie accompanies 
 the gentle murmur of the Potomac for some miles with 
 the sweet music of a steam-engine. The railwav skirts 
 one bank of this beautiful river. Mr. Jefferson wrote a 
 graphic and animated description of Harper's Ferry, 
 which appears in his work on Virginia. It is the point 
 of junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers ; 
 and it is supposed that these streams, as if each con- 
 scious of its individual inability, here combined their 
 waters, and forced a passage through the Blue Kidge, 
 which runs almost transversely to their course : this 
 opinion lias been entertained by Volney, and other 
 eminent travellers. The Shenandoah is a much smaller 
 river than the Potomac. In the Potomac, above the 
 point of junction, are several rocky islets, round which 
 the water impatiently chafes. The river narrows as it 
 
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94 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
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 approaches the point, where it formerly encountered its 
 great obstacle. The current is riipid, but tlie river, 
 when it eifected the change in the aspect of nature, 
 must liave been a stream of much greater power and 
 magnitude tlian it is at present. Volney imagines it 
 to be the contents of some vast lake (wliose 2)()siti(iii 
 and boundaries may still be traced by the coal dej)osits 
 which have l)een left), which at first found a small 
 outlet through some rocky fissure, in time inci-eased it, 
 and finally, with the whole weight of its waters, rent 
 the rocks, and fornfed a mighty river. 
 
 ' The village of Harper's Ferry is an ugly collection of 
 dingy houses and barns on a bare hill side, close to the 
 point of junction of the two rivers. A canal runs ahni^- 
 one bank of the Potomac, near the village, and c(jni- 
 municates with the city of Washington, which can be 
 reached in a day and a half by the boats. 
 
 * I walked up to "Jefferson's rock," a very strikiiii^' 
 mass of stone, on a hill overlooking the whole scene, 
 and tried to sketch it. From its sununit there is ;i 
 beautiful view of the two rivers and surroiuidin*'- 
 country. The whole landscape was bathed in sun- 
 shine, and lay spread out like a may) at m}^ feet. Near 
 Jefferson's rock is a pretty, (piiet little cemetery, over- 
 looking the Potomac Eiver. Its site, like most of the 
 cemeteries in the States, is well chosen. The resting- 
 places of the dead are indeed everywhere in well- 
 selected and appropriate situations. It is some con- 
 solation to the mourner to think that the ashes of ihc 
 departed loved one sleep in a spot where the bright sun 
 
 
AERIYAL AT WASHINGTON 
 
 95 
 
 casts his benms on a scene, calm, lioly, and beautiful : 
 ;ai(l that, instead of the foul atmosphere of a city 
 charnel-house, the air which steals over the tomb is 
 hulfu with the sweet })erfume of delicate and lovely 
 flowers, which the liaiid of affection has planted. 
 
 'At Harper's Ferrv is a lar<^(' armourv, where muskets 
 and rifles are manufactured for the United States Army. 
 [ walked through the workshops, and was much pleased 
 witli the order, regularity, and method. The barrels of 
 the muskets are brijj^ht, of the rifles browned. A mus- 
 ket is manufactm-ed for from between nine and ten 
 (lellars, and a rifle for aliout eleven or twelve. The 
 annnury is under the superintendence of the ordnance. 
 An arsenal is shortly to be built. 
 
 ^ Mni'cli oi'd. — Started about 5 o'clock A. ^r. for 
 Washinj^ton. Our enj^ine broke down about half-way 
 there, and we were delayed for an hoiu' while it was 
 uiuleru^oing repair. This brought us to Washington at 
 a more ('hristian-like hour. I went to Gadsby's Hotel, 
 where I had stayed on my former visit, but fonnd, as I 
 had anticipated, every nook and corner occupied. I left 
 my luggage there, and c(»mmenced a systematic hunt 
 for a night's lodgiug. I tried several of the hotels, but 
 at all received the same response. AEy hopes now lay 
 in the ])rolia.bility of there being a room to spare at 
 seme respectable tradesman's. I tried one or two, 
 and at last, undeterred by visions of poisoning, had the 
 courage to enter and make inquiry at a chemist's. 
 Its owner could not accommodate me, but told me of a 
 house where it was possible I might succeed in getting 
 
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 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
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 a shake-down. It was a private residence belonging to 
 a widow lady, who had consented to put herself to 
 temporary inconvenience for the benefit of travellers. 
 
 * Her house was conveniently situated near the Capi- 
 tol, the dame herself portly and comfortable-looking, 
 and I congratulated myself on my good luck ; my joy, 
 however, was a little damped when my fair hostess gave 
 the reins to her fancy, and indulged in speculation as 
 to the number of additional wanderers she could ac- 
 commodate. I had my luggage moved to the house, 
 and then went to the Capitol to hear the debates of 
 Congress. 
 
 ' The Senate and House sat all night, and on the fol- 
 lowing morning the members looked very jaded and 
 knocked up ; however, they had a holiday till the month 
 of December in store for them, and would soon recover 
 from the cares and strifes of political life. I was much 
 pleased with the urbanity, intelligence, and firmness of 
 the Speaker of the Lower House ; his duties were 
 arduous and troublesome, a perfect shout being raised, 
 immediately after a division, of " Mr. Speaker ! " from 
 all sides of the house, and a great deal of confusion and 
 conversation going on during the transaction of busi- 
 ness. The visitors' galleries in both Houses are small, 
 and do not at all answer the expectations cr meet the 
 wishes of the sovereign people, who '^ertainly ought to 
 have a little accommodation to hear with their own ears, 
 and see with their own eyes, how their servants are 
 carrying on their affairs. 
 
 * I went, during the afternoon, to a large Bazaar held 
 
 iM» i> 
 
 mm. I 
 
THE EYE OF THE INAUGURATION 
 
 97 
 
 jit the Patent Office ; there were a great many people 
 there, and things of interest exhibited. Among these the 
 daouerreotypes, and some pUms engraved most beauti- 
 fully, especially attracted me. The Americans excel in 
 thedaguerreotypingart ; this climate is more favourable 
 to it, I believe, than that of Europe. The Patent 
 Office, in which the fair was held, is a fine white build- 
 ing, with handsome porticoes and column^. 
 
 ' The bustle and gaiety of Washington to-day were 
 quite animating; crowds were arriving by every train, 
 and every steamboat discharged its living cargo of eager 
 and expectant visitors. The accommodation of the city 
 was completely exhausted, and hundreds passed the 
 whole night of the 3rd of March in the great hall of the 
 Capitol, or in roaming about tlie streets like troubled 
 spirits. Even at the huge hotels, which one would think 
 alone cajiable of accommodating a city or two, scarce a 
 place could be obtained for dinner at the ordinary. A 
 small crowd, waiting for vacant seats and sniffing the 
 fragrant air, was stationed near the entrance to the 
 diniug-room at Brown's Hotel, where I went to dine. 
 I remained like them in anxious expectation, till a 
 black waiter, opening the door a few inches, and par- 
 tially revealing the paradise beyond, whispered, " Dat 
 dere was seat for one," and then, without hesitation, 
 I plunged into the apai'tment, and requested, in a 
 decided tone, to be conducted to the vacant chair. I 
 drank tea at my lodgings, and was formally presented 
 by my buxom hostess to my fellow-lodgers. They were 
 
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 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
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 staid, middle-aged, quiet-looking people ; civil, 1)ut 
 reserved. 
 
 *The tea (with a due regard to economy) was served 
 from a huge teapot by the lady of the house, and a 
 very small negro boy handed it round to the company. 
 We all dispersed after it ; I to the Senate House, mv 
 friends where their inclinations led them. When I 
 returned, at half-past twelve, I found madame sittini; 
 up, looking very tired, and complaining of a head- 
 ache. 8he said she did not know what she could do for 
 me, as she had told some of the other gentlemen that 
 if they brought home some friends they would he 
 accommodated. I replied that it was not likely tliat 
 they would think of bringing in strangers at that late 
 hour, and as nobody appeared, she had accommodated 
 another gentleman (my humble self) who was very 
 tired ; that he was going away the next day, when a 
 bed would be much at their service ; and I further 
 added, as a still more powerful argument, that, thongli 
 I certainly objected to sleeping double, I should be 
 delighted if she would afford me the opportunity of 
 paying for one beside myseJf : I also strongly insinuated 
 that a bird in the hand was worth two in the bush. By 
 degrees, my landlady began to admit the force of my 
 reasoning, but requested double payment in advance. 
 I placed three bright little gold dollars in her soft palm. 
 lighted my candle, bolted my door (to secure myself 
 from the invasion of disappointed applicants), and, with 
 a chuckle at my diplomacy, and at the mercenary spirit | 
 of stout females, was soon fast asleep. 
 
99 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 INAUGURATION DAY AT WASHINGTON — MEETING WITH 
 THACKERAY — CHARLESTON. 
 
 ' March 4tli. / ."' -r ^ 
 
 '^PHIS eventful (lay broke gloomily: the sky was over- 
 J- cast, the air raw and cold, and tlie whole aspect of 
 tlie city as dreary a contrast as could well be conceived 
 to the appearance of the previous day. 
 
 ' Crowds began to muster at an early hour. Small 
 parties of military, and deputations from various socie- 
 ties and pid)lic bodies, might be seen, headed by their 
 1 lands, marching to their place of rendezvous, opposite 
 the City Hall. Four guns of the Flying Artillery, 
 preceded by some questionable trumpeters, seemed to 
 excite great attention. I made no attempt to get into 
 the Senate House, as I felt my doing so to be utterly 
 hopeless. I walked again to the platform, and took my 
 stand among a thin crowd, who were sliivering under 
 their umbrellas, in a snow-storm. The crowd soon 
 increased in size, and density, but the space in front 
 of the Capitol is so large, that there was no crush. I 
 stood about two hours in th(^ position I had chosen, 
 exposed to the merciless snow, when distant music was 
 
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 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
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 heard, and the shouts of a cheering multitude borne to 
 our ears by the breeze. A bustle was observable at the 
 back of the platform; a small dark crowd emerged from 
 the doorways, and arranged themselves in order under 
 the portico. An eager buzz of expectati<jn passed 
 through the crowd of spectators. The dark figures 
 advanced : a small man, with a large supporter on each 
 side, occupied the central and most conspicuous place. 
 He advanced to the table, with his hat off, and seated 
 himself. This was General Pierce, the President elect. 
 His face was pale and anxious, but determined and 
 intelligent ; forehead broad and high ; mouth rather 
 large ; lips thin and compressed, indicating firmness 
 and decision ; eyes small, restless and observant ; his 
 height below the average standard ; his appearance pre- 
 possessing and gentlemanly. One might almost recall 
 Macaiday's celebrated description of Warren Hastings, 
 when gazing on his pale face, beaming with intelligence 
 and spirit, and upon his small and delicate-looking form. 
 There was a man, under whose portrait Avas legibly 
 written "Mens cvqna in ardnis.^^ The members of 
 the former Government, with their chief, the Supreme 
 Court and Senate of the United States, seated behind 
 him, formed a noble background to the j^rincipal figure. 
 The oath of adherence to the constitution was adminis- 
 tered amidst breathless silence, the whole multitude, as 
 well as the President, standing uncovered. The solemnity, | 
 and impressiveness of the spectacle were enhanced bj 
 the snow, which fell on the bare and exposed heads oil 
 the mute actors in the great moral scene, and tbe 
 
GENERAL TIERCE 
 
 101 
 
 ])orne to 
 )le at tlic 
 •ii'eclfvom 
 ler under 
 )n passed 
 L-k fig-uies 
 jr on each 
 .ous place, 
 md seated 
 lent elect. 
 nined and 
 nth rather 
 r firmness 
 n-vant; his 
 iiranee pre- 
 most recall 
 n Hastings, 
 intelligence 
 oking form, 
 was legihly 
 nembers of 
 :ie Supreme 
 [ited behiinl 
 icipal figure, 
 ^•as adminis- 
 nultitude, a« 
 le solemnity, 
 enhanced by 
 )sed heads oi 
 
 ue, and tbe 
 
 
 
 indifference witli whicli tliey bore what, at other times, 
 and under ordinary circumstances, would have been 
 .scnipulou.sly avoided, — a striking evidence of the readi- 
 ness of even the most mixed, and heterogeneous nuiltitude 
 to recognise and appreciate the sublime. General Pierce 
 ttiok the oath, one hand raised in the air, and tlie other 
 resting on the sacred volume. He repeated tlie words 
 in a low voice, audible to him only who adnunistered it. 
 He then advanced to the front of the platform, and amid 
 hreathless silence, only interrupted occasionally by cheers, 
 delivered his inaugural address. His voice was clear, 
 distinct, and silvery ; he spoke with energy and gesticu- 
 lation. At some of the most impressive parts of his 
 speech, he half turned round, and addressed himself 
 specially to the Senate. lie was applauded throughout, 
 and especially at those points where he announced his 
 determination to adhere to the ]\[onroe doctrine of for- 
 Itidding colonisation by European powers in the American 
 continent, and where he declared the Fugitive Slave laws 
 of 18.51 to be strictly constitutional, and to be unhesi- 
 tatingly enforced. He considered the slave system a 
 right of the South, and the slaves a description of pro- 
 perty as much to be protected and defended from injury 
 as land or money. Jioth the.se items in his address will 
 doubtless give offence. In England, the assertion of a 
 doctrine which forbids our right to colonise in America, 
 *' beyond present jurisdiction, as utterly inaduiissible," 
 when our American territories are of greater extent than 
 the whole of the United States, will seem a great piece 
 of filibustering and swagger. The death-blow, also, thus 
 
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 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
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 firmly dealt at all the hopes of emancipators, and 
 the dreams of philanthropists, cannot fail in creatiiii; 
 a great sensation. I thought the si^eech, in both 
 these particulars, faulty, and likely to exercise a had 
 influence on the excited feelings of the great masses of 
 the American people. The policy of this model repuhlic 
 has always been grasping, warlike, and aggressive. Sucli 
 a policy is suited to the feelings of the uneducated classes 
 of an energetic, and enterprising people. The annexa- 
 tions of vast territories, with, or without right, have been 
 frequent and barefaced. Already Cuba, and Canada are 
 reganled with envious eyes. A war, to secure the pos- 
 session of either, would be instantly popular ; especially 
 a war which might annex the former, as the struggle 
 would be less protracted and injurious to the country, 
 and the prize rich, and easily preserved. The Senators 
 themselves say that no other power in the world should 
 be permitted to obtain possession of Cuba, even if the 
 Spaniards made a voluntary tender of their island ; and 
 they have some show of reason for this determination. 
 The rest of General Pierce's speech I liked very much : 
 the language was nervous, and eloquent ; the sentiments 
 noble, and patriotic. He reflected, with just pride and 
 exultation, on the bright fulfilment of the most sanguine 
 prophecies of the great foimders of the nation ; on her 
 prosperity, increase of wealth, population, and territory; 
 and then advocated, in glowing language, the necessity 
 of union among the States, saying that if one bright 
 star were withdrawn from their banner, no human hand 
 could ever replace it. He concludea by referring all the 
 
 iiiii t ^ 
 
THE INAUGURATION COMrLETED 
 
 103 
 
 l)les.sinf(s the country enjoyed to that (iod who presides 
 over all things, and in whom alone countries as well as 
 men should trust. Every one appeared delitj^hted with 
 the speech, and I heard many peoj)le remark that it was 
 the hest inaugural address ever heard. The immense 
 crowd dispersed in an orderly juid (juiet nianuer, and 
 tliL'ir shouts of applause were succeeded by the guns o\' 
 the "Flying Artillery,*' saluting the new President of 
 the Kepublic. (ieneral Pierce was attired in a suit of 
 clothes, presented to him, I fancy, by the city of 
 Boston ; at least, they seemed to correspond with the 
 description, given in a Boston paper, of a dress in 
 course of preparation in that city, by the best tailor, 
 which was to be worn on the occasion. The city of 
 Boston also presented the General with a very hand- 
 some carriage, and a pair of fine bays. 
 
 ' All the fun was now over. There was to be no ball 
 in the evening, on account of the President's domestic 
 1 lereavement ; and the great event which had drawn so 
 many of the sovereign people together, was a thing of 
 the past. The snow still descended ; I was cold, and 
 very tired. I determined, however, to exert myself and 
 see as much as I could, as I was to start at nine in the 
 evening for Charleston, South Carolina, w^here I wished 
 to arrive before the 8tli of March, to catch the Havana 
 steamer. I walked to the Patent Office, where General 
 Washington's clothes and some of his camp furniture 
 are shown, and where there is a large Museum, and 
 collection of curiosities ; but I found tiie doors locked, it 
 being a public holiday. I made another attempt to pro- 
 
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104 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
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 cure admission into tlie Smithsonian Institute, a lnr<,^>, 
 red brick l)uildin<2f in the Norman style, which contains 
 a picture gallery, and is devoted to scientific instruction. 
 
 * I packed up my traps and drove down to the steaniei-, 
 which I found crammed with some of the Richmond 
 Rifles, who had taken a part in tlie procession, and were 
 now returning home, and with a number of pleasure- 
 hunters like myself. 
 
 * The atmosphere of the cabin and sleeping-rooms was 
 stifling. I walked miserrd)ly about, without knowing- 
 where to repose my wearied liml)S. At length I sank 
 exhausted on some flour sacks, where I was exposed to 
 a fierce draught, which I bore sulkily for some time, and 
 at last beat a retreat, and threw myself on a seat in the 
 hot cabin. We were shifted at about 1 a.m. from the 
 steamer to the railway cars, and arrived at Richmond 
 just after sunrise on Saturday morning. 
 
 ' A great part of the journey was through a swampy 
 wood : all the land around seemed completely flat and 
 but little cleared. Between Weldon, and Wilmington, 
 North Carolina, indeed there are scarcely any signs of 
 habitation ; some of the railway stations are nearly 
 twenty miles apart, and the houses in their vicinity 
 poor, and scattered. The railway between these two 
 last places is an excellent one, and the fast trains travel 
 at the rate of forty miles an hour. In South Carolinca, 
 I was told by an engineer who had been employed in 
 government surveys, that vast unhealthy swamps existed 
 among the woods on table-lands elevated above the 
 general level of the country. 
 
MEETS WITH THACKERAY 
 
 105 
 
 ' He instanc'C'd a well-known marsh, called the "Dismal 
 Swamp," and drew a small illustrative sketeh. Ife said 
 tliiit tlie woods in the neighbourhood of these dreary 
 wastes, are more healthy than the eleared country. 
 The Dismal Swamp mii,d»t easily be drained. 
 
 *I reached Wilmincrton between nine and ten o'clock. 
 
 ^ Sunday f Mdvch i)t It. — The day broke lovely, sun- 
 shiny, and warm. It was like ])eing suddenly trans- 
 ported to England at the end of May, 
 
 ' The boat f(tr Charleston hjft at 10 a.m. We were to 
 reach ('harleston at four or five o'clock on INfonday 
 morning. The steamer did not go very steadily, though 
 there was })ut little swell. What her conduct would 
 have been had wind been blowing, I am ({uite at a loss 
 to conjecture; but was very glad not to be in her 
 under such circumstances. She stopped several times 
 (luring the night, in the open sea, without any assignable 
 reason, except perhaps to prevent her boiler bursting, 
 and let off her steam with a prodigious noise. 
 
 * To my great surprise I learned that Mr. Thackeray, 
 whom I liad long wished to hear and see, was on board this 
 (jueer little steamer. I recognised him in his spectacles, 
 and German travelling-cap, from his likeness to his 
 portraits. He is a tall man, with grey hair; his face is 
 full ; forehead broad, and finely developed. A keen 
 enjoyment of fun, and sense of the ludicrous, might be 
 distinctively traced in his lineaments. I introduced 
 myself to the great man's secretary (an artist, named 
 Crowe, whom I found afterwards a very nice, gentle- 
 manly fellow), and through him had the pleasure of 
 
 ili 
 I I 
 
 ■ill 
 
106 
 
 CANADA AND THE CIIIMKA 
 
 m' 
 
 ! 
 
 nifikiiK' ATr. 'riiackcniv's ncciuaintauce. Ho was verv 
 sotl.'ililc, niid talked in an unresiTvt'd, kind manner. 
 
 •• ]Ic had Ix'en travt'llin*,' all ni^dit, and turned in for ;i 
 few hours l»ef(»re tea to jjfet a nap. 
 
 M)n a elear, calm evenin*^, with a deep l)lue sky, 
 spangled with stars over our heads, Thackeray and I s;if 
 talkin<' for more than two h(»urs. He told me he liked 
 America, — thou«,dit her a very hue country, and enii- 
 sidered her future as likely to be more glorious thuii 
 England's. He said it did an Englishnum a great 
 deal of good to travel in the States, as it removed a 
 little of his pride and self-sufficiency. 
 
 ' The Americans liad received him most kindly and 
 liospitably. 
 
 'One or two articles had indeed ])een written in a 
 different spirit when he first arrived, but this feeling 
 had soon died away. 
 
 *• He was much pleased with the great men of the 
 country to whom he had been introduced. He spoke 
 of the new President as a man of great intelligence, 
 energy, and observation. 
 
 ' jNlr. Everett he characterised as an elegant scholar ; 
 and said the members of the whig administration, 
 generally, were very good fellows, and perfect gentle- 
 men. 
 
 * General Scott he liked much, and called him a fine- 
 hearted, noble old fellow. 
 
 *He told me that lecturing in America had been a 
 little harvest to him, and that he thought he should 
 repeat his visit next year. 
 
as 
 
 very 
 
 lie 
 
 i". 
 
 iu 
 
 for a 
 
 ue 
 
 sky, 
 
 1(1 I silt 
 
 le 
 
 likcl 
 
 1(1 
 
 CUll- 
 
 us 
 
 tliaii 
 
 a 
 
 j^'rcat 
 
 en in a 
 
 CTRIIEU IJF.I.L 
 
 lo: 
 
 * lie was injured a i^roat dral from the dioap rcpritits 
 (.f Ills works ill the Statt-s, and said lie Imped an inter- 
 national copyrii,dit l)ill would soon he passed, to remove 
 the evil under wliicli authors, Kntrlisli anil Ainerican, 
 l)otli surter. The ])resent system is, he tliinks, more 
 jMinieious to Ameriean autiiors ami literutiin' even 
 tiiaii it is to Knj^lish. A puhlisher will not ^'ive a j^reut 
 writer, either on seientitic subjects or iu general liteni- 
 ttirc, a high ]»ri('e foi- a work when he knows he eiin 
 puiilisli one more elever and amusing, and of greater 
 Karning and research, for n(»thing hut the price of 
 till' i)aper, and the expense of arranging tlu; types. 
 
 ' I asked Thackeray if he had read Currer Hell's la.st 
 novel, " Villette," and he r«'i)lied that lie had not, hut 
 wished particularly to do ho, as he knew the author. 
 
 ' I tound subset [ueiitly, fn)m his secretary, that Thack- 
 eray had been the first to discover and appreciate the 
 merits of "Jane Kyre," and had written a congratulatory 
 letter to the author, who was at that time niiknown to him. 
 He Corresponded for some time with her, not knowing- 
 all the time whether he was writing to a gentleman or 
 a lady. Her letters were composed and written in a 
 most masculine style, and were good botli in manner, 
 and matter. Her last novel (which I had the satisfac- 
 tion of being able to lend to Thackeray) is very melan- 
 cholv, and sad. 
 
 ' Thackeray liked " Shirley" better than " Jane Eyre," 
 and I quite concurred with him. In the midst of our 
 chat the steamer suddenly stopped, and commenced a 
 see-saw motion from side to side. She then proceeded 
 
 I I 
 
 
 ■ 'I' 
 
 \ \ 
 
103 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 I ■ 
 
 
 to let off her steam, making a most deafening and 
 rather alarming noise. We could get no explanation 
 of the reason of this pause, and were obliged to retire 
 in the hope that aP was right. 
 
 * The night continued calm and fine, and when I left 
 my cabin at about six o'clock on Monday morning, I 
 could see the glorious old sun, red-faced and happy, 
 rising in the East, ai^d casting his beams upon the har- 
 bour and town of Charleston, South Carolina. 
 
 ' Charleston is built on the junction of the Ashley, 
 and Cooper rivers. Its harbour is a line one, and well 
 sheltered by islands, and a projecting tongue of land. 
 The soil it is built upon is very light and sandy. It 
 was formerly bounded by a marsh on one side, but this 
 has been drained, and a quay built upon it, trees and 
 grass planted, and a pleasant promenade made, miicli 
 frequented on account of the sea breezes. Overlooking 
 this promenade are some of the prettiest private houses 
 in the place. They all have little gardens in front, 
 which are adorned, so bountiful is nature in these sunny 
 regions, even in March, with roses, geraniums, and 
 lilies of the valley in full bloom. 
 
 ' There are no very prominent, or conspicuous public 
 buildings in Charleston, but its churches, exchange, 
 court-house, &c., are all sufficiently handsome, and sub- 
 stantial. The roofs of most of the houses are made 
 nearly flat, to allow their occupants an opportunity for 
 enjoying the summer evenings in the open air. 
 
 * I was delighted with the trees in the streets, and 
 with the fresh appearance of the grass. 
 
 ifiill 
 
y 
 
 CHAnLESTON 
 
 109 
 
 ' Charleston is an important commercial city. Its 
 chief trade is in cotton. The plantations are some dis- 
 tance from the town, and are visited by water — a 
 steamer, for the convenience of planters, plyinj^ up and 
 flown the Ashley river. During- the hot summer months, 
 the air of the plantations is poisonous and pestilential. 
 Xo white man can exist on them. They leave them 
 uuder the management of black, or mulatto agents, 
 and are only able to pay them a visit about once a 
 week, or fortnight, and then only between the hours of 
 sunset and sunrise. 
 
 ' The atmosphere, which is destructive to the white, is 
 perfectly harmless to the negro race, who enjoy it, and 
 thrive under the hot summer sun. This is certainly a 
 strong argument in favour of the existing system of 
 slavery. 
 
 ' I saw numbers of blacks in all directions ; most of 
 therp very black and very hideous, but rarely were ray 
 eyes refreshed by the sight of a mulatto, or even a 
 man or woman with a dash of white blood in their 
 veins. 
 
 ' The mulatto women are represented as being good- 
 looking, and having finely-formed and softly-moulded 
 figures. They rarely appear in public except on great 
 occasions, such as the 4th of July. They dress nicely, 
 and are generally virtuous ; and in manner and deport- 
 ment would give a very good and useful lesson (as I 
 was told by the mayor of Charleston) even to white 
 
 I I 
 
 ' The great number of darkies is very striking at first. 
 
110 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 !:( 
 
 'i ■ 
 
 You see, even in the main streets, two or even three of 
 these to every white man, and in the back streets you 
 see no one else. I wandered to the military college at 
 about five in the afternoon, and saw instead of a parade 
 some slovenly marching, and a group of artillery militia 
 in blue coats, small shakos, and red epaulettes, muster- 
 ing for drill, with their black band. Blacks are often 
 employed as musicians. The pure negro has an excellent 
 ear for music, but can never be brought to understand 
 it as a science, or even to read it from a music book. 
 The mulatto, on the contrary, masters these difficulties, 
 and thus shows the enlightening influence of white 
 blood. 
 
 * The women at the table d' bote were some of them 
 rather pretty, — generally speaking brunettes, — and 
 very rarely with fair skins and blue eyes. They are 
 nicer looking, and more feminine and lovable than their 
 Northern sisters. The men likewise, in the South, are 
 more like Englishmen in appearance, manners, and tone 
 of voice. South Carolina was originally colonised by 
 English gentlemen, and their blood reappears in 
 their descendants in spite of the influence of republican 
 institutions. 
 
 * Tuesday^ March Sth. — After breakfast I walked 
 through the long market, where negresses, with white 
 or coloured kerchiefs tastefully arranged, sit like pre- 
 siding goddesses at their cabbage-stalls, and where 
 negroes, greasy and well-to-do, superintend various 
 experiments in the comparative anatoniy of sheep and 
 oxen ; and found myself soon on board a small steamer 
 
 
AN HOTEL ROBBERY 
 
 111 
 
 bound for Sullivan's Island. This island is a favourite 
 .summer resort. Its shores are washed by the waves 
 of the Atlantic. It is covered, for some extent, with 
 groves of myrtle, and I noticed several picturesque pal- 
 metto-trees rearing themselves above the hot, loose sand 
 of which the island is formed. A large hotel, deserted 
 at this time of the year, stands on a point of land close 
 to tlie water, and the summer retreats, with their veran- 
 dalis, are mostly built focing and skirting the sea. 
 
 'I reached Charleston again at half-past 3 r.M., 
 and went up to my room to get ready for a ride ; but 
 f )und something: there, or rather the absence of some- 
 thing, which detained me at liome. While I was away, 
 some thief had surreptitiously o])taine(l admission to my 
 bed-room, broken open my portmanteau, and abstracted 
 therefrom the sum of 100 dollars in gold, which was 
 neatly folded up in a small parcel. ]\Iy carpet-bug (in 
 which were 200 dollars) looking very empty, escaped 
 his observation. Nothing except the money appeared 
 to have been taken. Vigorous measures were evidently 
 necessary. I could entertain very little hope of com- 
 pensation from the hotel proprietor, as warnings are 
 pasted up in every room, cautioning travellers not to 
 leave money or articles of value in their rooms, and 
 statinnf that there was an iron safe in the bar where 
 they might be deposited. I locked my door, and com- 
 menced my long descent to the lower regions of the 
 hotel, where the respectable occupants of the bar were 
 to be found. On my way, I encountered Thackeray and 
 his secretary, to whom I explained my loss, and who 
 
 > ■ 
 
 I V 
 
112 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 i ; 
 
 immediately acc(»mpanied me to the scene of devasta- 
 tion. There lay the portmanteau most significantly 
 telling its own tale. The robbery had been, performed 
 by a dexterous and practised thief, as the lock was 
 uninjured, and the portmanteau had been simply and 
 neatly torn open. 
 
 * The door of the room and its lock did not seem to 
 have been touched, and indeed the latter was fast 
 when I returned. We all went together to the bar, 
 and I made my formal statement of what had occurred. 
 The accoiuit was received with grave nonchalance, and 
 indifference ; indeed, I was congratulated by one gentle- 
 man on my escape from total bankruptcy. A stout 
 man, with a peaked beard, seemed, however, a little 
 melted; conjured up an expression of grave concern, 
 and begged me to show him my portmanteau. I did 
 so, and listened to the remarks and suggestions of my 
 corpulent friend for ten minutes, when he left, after 
 giving me very little consolation — (excej^t sympathy) 
 for my misfortune — to order a smith up to repair 
 damages. This useful individual soon made his appear- 
 ance, and entertained me, in answer to my queries, 
 with some agreeable descriptions of smashing open 
 doors, and deeds of gangs of row^dies, who were wont, 
 in former days, to follow their vocations at the Charles- 
 ton hotel. 
 
 * One advantage I gained from my loss — I was put 
 into a much better room lower down, and treated 
 with great civility. 
 
 ' I went in the evening to hear Thackeray's lecture : 
 
 
 iiiil 
 
.Vf 1 
 
 "TRUSS IN DE lord" 
 
 113 
 
 evast.a- 
 [icantly 
 •formed 
 »ck was 
 ply and 
 
 seem to 
 ^vas fast 
 the bar, 
 iccurred. 
 lice, and 
 ■i orentle- 
 A stout 
 a little 
 concern, 
 1. I did 
 is of my 
 -ft, after 
 mpatliy) 
 o repair 
 i appear- 
 queries, 
 ng open 
 re wont, 
 Charles- 
 was put 
 treated 
 
 lecture : 
 
 his subject was Jonathan Swift, and he treated it with 
 skill, pathos, and elofpience. It appeared more than to 
 satisfy the expectation of the audience, and struck nie 
 as a finished and masterly performance. 
 
 *I met Thackeray on the steps, just {^oing out of 
 the hall, and he introduced me to the Mayor of Charles- 
 ton, and tw^o or three other gentlemen, who, 1 found, 
 had taken him in tow for an evening's amusement, and 
 were about to entertain him with the spectacle of a 
 '• quality ball," to show him that niggers could some- 
 times be happy, and endeavour to soften his Anglican 
 and abolitionist prejudices. 
 
 . ' We adjourned from the Hibernian Hall, in the first 
 instance, to the Main Guard-House, wdiere we smoked 
 cigars, to the music of the worst drums to which it has 
 ever been my evil destiny to listen. They reminded me, 
 in tone, of the sweet sounds which are evoked from the 
 toys of our infancy, and in power to three or four hun- 
 dred penny drums all going together. 
 
 ' The Ma}' or told us several amusing anecdotes about 
 the nicrgfers. One was of an old fellow who was cele- 
 Ijrated for his preaching and religious fervour, and 
 always took for his text the words " Truss in de Lord." 
 On this he was in the habit of discoursing most elo- 
 quently ; and he enjoined, in an impressive manner, the 
 whole congregation, in whatsoever position of danger, 
 distress, or difficulty they might be placed, always to 
 " Truss in de Lord." One day the old gentleman was 
 seen in a canoe, half full of water, in the centre of a 
 rapid stream, calling most vigorously and lustily for 
 
 1 r 
 
 Mti 
 
 ( 
 
 i 
 
 ,, .. 
 
lU 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 help. His cries reached the ears of two of his coii- 
 gre<j;ation, who, at some risk, and amidst his shrieks of 
 terror, extricated him from liis perih)us position. Wiicu 
 they all got safe on land, his rescuers could not help 
 being struck at the complete despair of their reverend 
 pastor, when he found himself in danger, and one 
 remarked : " I sa}^ Samho, you didn't seem to truss in 
 de Lord den much. Why didn't you truss in de Lord, 
 you nigger?" to which the other replied: "Always 
 truss in de Lord, my bredren, on de land; but no truss 
 in de Lord on de water ! "' 
 
 'The negroes have a great reverence for the dead, and 
 their funerals are performed witii much pomp and cere- 
 mony. They conceal the spot where the body lies hy 
 a hundred ingenious artifices, to prevent its being dis- 
 interred, and dissected by medical students, of whicli 
 they have a great dread and horror. 
 
 * ]Most of the negroes are ]Metliodists, or Baptists. 
 Many of them are really honestly and sincerely pious, 
 and they all take great delight in going to church. They 
 prefer white to black preachers ; indeed, the latter often 
 preach the most extravagant nonsense, — one man hav- 
 ing gravely told a congregation, which received the 
 assertion with the gravity of him who uttered it, that 
 " he had seen Gor de Fader at de footstool of de Holy 
 Ghost ! " 
 
 * There are several free blacks at Charleston, men of 
 property, who of course are as much under the protec- 
 tion of the law as the whites. They are interdicted, 
 however, from marrying white women ; and whi^e n.'^v^ 
 
A QUALITY BALL 
 
 115 
 
 are similarly prohibited from csj)ousinfi; ucgrcHscs, or 
 nnilatto women. 
 
 'Xow for the ({iiality l)all I We threaded several 
 narrow, obscure, and dirty lanes, and, after groping 
 tlirnnyh a long, da.rk, breakneck passage, found our- 
 selves in a tolerably large room, completely filled with 
 the votaries of Terpsichore. Every one had come for 
 ^'ood, earnest work. There were no louni>-ers and mere 
 lookers-on, and, in fact, no room for them. We took 
 lip our stand near the head of the room ; the music 
 struck up, and ])roceedings commenced. The band 
 played a noisy air, and the dancers' movements were 
 regulated by a nigger with stentorian lungs, who 
 shouted out, in the most commanding voice, "Hands 
 'cross,"' " Turn your partners," ^^c, all which direc- 
 tions were complied with, with much grace and in 
 admiral )le time, Thackeray declared it was the best 
 dancing he had ever seen. Here, and there a little 
 attl'ctation and conceit were exhibited by some peculiarly 
 ebony lady ; but great order, politeness, and decorimi 
 prevailed. 
 
 ' One or two of the women were olive, and wore ring- 
 lets. They might have passed anywhere for Spanish 
 Creoles, but were all slaves. The contrast of the black 
 arms, and necks with the white dresses was singular, 
 and picturesque. The dresses were occasionally pretty, 
 though there was evidently a great absence of stays. 
 The women's feet and ancles, hands and arms, and 
 occasionally figures, were good. The men were dressed 
 in their ordinary walking clothes, with an occasional 
 
 I 2 
 
 
 C: 
 
 iM* 
 
116 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 '> ! 
 
 lover in correct evening costume, and had all of tliem 
 clean sliirts on. One bouncing Itlack Leanty attracted 
 Thackeray's attention, and I saw on his table next doy 
 an admirable little sketch of a gronp of dancers, with 
 her comely figure in a conspicuous position, executing 
 " a pas," and a capital likeness of a most die-away and 
 affected " thing" (as the ladies would have called her), 
 going through a killing, and bewitching movement at 
 the side. We stayed about half an hour at the l)all 
 (merely as spectators, of course), partook of some 
 refreshment, consisting of plum cake, and very nice 
 sassafras beer, and toddled home to bed, bidding our 
 friends adieu. 
 
 
117 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CHARLESTON — SLAVE MARKET — SAVANNAH — KEY WEST. 
 
 ' Tluirsdav, March 10th. 
 
 ' "ITTENT at 11 a.m. to sec the sale by auction of niuety- 
 * » six prime negroes, which t(3ok jjhiee near the 
 Exchange. The gang was to be sold in families ; all 
 good field-hands, or some other excellent qualification, 
 and to be disposed of, at so nuieh a head, without 
 reserve. The negroes, with their wives and little ones, 
 were standing; huddled too-other in a crowd behind the 
 platform, on which each family was exposed for sale in 
 turn, according to a printed programme. Many of 
 tliem seemed indifferent, and a stout negress or two 
 looked, occasionally, even defiant ; but there were several 
 mothers with their babies at their breasts (and even 
 black innocence, and helplessness are pretty and inter- 
 esting) sobbing bitterly. The auctioneer explained the 
 conditions of sale to the company, and stated that all 
 the niggers were to be considered sound, unless anything 
 was said to the contrary. There was no degrading 
 exhibition to ascertain physical efficiency, but all the 
 negroes were in decent clothing. The slaves were 
 
(/ ■■; 
 
 118 
 
 CANADA AND TKi: CTilMEA 
 
 rf 
 
 arranired in families, accorcliiii^ to their nearest relati(jii- 
 ship, and sold in lots at so much a head. The compctitiuii 
 was tolerably brisk, and several lots — old men, babies, 
 and all, sold very well. The seeiie, of course, was iii(»sl 
 painful, humiliatin<5% and dei,n-adin<^-. I Ijeeame (iiiite 
 affected myself, and was oblij^ed to hurry away, for tear 
 of showing what I felt. 
 
 * March Will. — Left Charleston on a lovely morniiiL;' 
 for Savannah. AVe entered the Savannah Kiver at half- 
 past thn.'e in the afternof>n. The sun came out, and 
 lighted up a jierturbed stream, the C(jloiir of copper, and 
 low, marshy banks. The Savannali river resembles the 
 Mississippi in general character ; it winds through 
 swampy islets, only visible at low water, on which m 
 summer the alligatoi's deliuht to bask. 
 
 ' Savannali is twenty-fcnir miles from the mouth of 
 the river, and in the centre of the rice country. We 
 passed several rice plantations ; they are perfectly flat, 
 and heUnv the high-water level of the river. They are 
 protected from its waters by embankments. In the 
 spring, when the crops are sown, the sluice-gates are 
 opened, and the plantations flooded, and kept covered 
 with water till the yoxmg rice shoots above their surface, 
 when they are drained, and the rice left to the action 
 of the sun. 
 
 ^ Savannah itself is built on a sandy bluff, elevated 
 about forty feet above high- water mark. It is laid out 
 in fine, broad, regular streets, and avenues lined with 
 trees, and green sliady squares, which give it a most 
 pleasing and rural appearance. The variety and beauty 
 
SPRING IN SAVANNAH 
 
 Iff 
 
 moniiii'; 
 
 of its trees are very strikinj^^; there are Hevi'ral descrip- 
 tions of live-(tak, a tree wliic-h lives ft»r lunidrcds of 
 years, like our j^iant of tlie forest; tlioii;;h in other 
 rt'Sjieets it l)iit little resembles it. Its branehes arc 
 adorned, all the year round, with festoons of dark slatr- 
 c'oloured moss, which han|4" from them in droopinjjj 
 dusters, sometimes ten or twelve feet Ion;;-, contrastiui;- 
 strang'ely with the bri<;ht green buds of oj)eninn- spring, 
 which the supporting boughs are putting forth. I saw 
 the olive-tree in blossom, the laurel sixteen or eighteen 
 feet high, "the sad cypress," the null berry, the pine, the 
 cedar, the Pride of India tree (covered in summer with 
 large lilac blossoms of a languidly rich perfume), and 
 several other varieties I was too i^iKjrant to recounise. 
 The effect produced by this great and luxuriant variety 
 of foliage can readily be imagined. 
 
 ' Mardi \'2th, — At both Charleston, and Savannah I 
 felt the debilitatorv influence of a southern clime, 
 and a feeling of languor and depression. This wore off, 
 however, after a short time. I began even to like the hot 
 weather. It was such a sudden change from the dreary 
 monotony of a winter landscape, to the bright and 
 gorgeous hues of summer. Here all the trees of the 
 forest are budding, and blossoming. The young fruits of 
 the earth sprouting green, and fresh above its surface : 
 the delicate, and beautiful flowers of summer blooming 
 fearless of the withering frost, the bright and glorious 
 sun warming, and gladdening the whole with his genial 
 presence. 
 
 ' The sun is a great inspirer of poetry ; how does the 
 
 I. 
 
ISO 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 younj^ poet, or lover delight to muse under the calm 
 influence of liis declinin«j^ <ijl(U-i('H, when the whole land- 
 scape is gorfjjeously painted with the }j;l()win|j^ tints (if 
 lieaven, and the air, laden with ])erfuin(', is wafted <^t'ntly 
 throu<»h the boughs, whispering peace, and bidding 
 thouglits of care and grief depart from the consecrated 
 ground. 
 
 *Love must be quite another passion in these sunny 
 abodes. 
 
 * I left my hotel immediately after breakfast, and, on 
 the principle of "business first, pleasure afterwards," 
 went to the agents for the Havana steamers, and paid 
 ^40 for a passage l)y the good steamship Ysahil. I 
 was told I must get a passport, and went to the Frentli 
 Consul for that purpose, but unluckily he was from 
 home. I procured a horse, and rode tlirough a wood, in 
 which the wild jasmine was growing in beautiful lux- 
 uriance, to Bonaventure Cemetery, about four miles 
 from Savannah. I met with an incident on the way 
 which amused me. I had become a little confused, by a 
 number of roads in different directions, and apparently 
 at cross purposes, and found myself, after keeping for 
 some time to one, which seemed probably the most cor- 
 rect, riding past a few rude cottages on the edge of a 
 bluff, overlooking the Savannah River. A negro was at 
 the door of one of the huts, and I made inquiries of him 
 as to the bearing of the lost cemetery. His master 
 stepped forward to my relief, pointed out the direction 
 in which I should ride, conjecturing, from my ignorance 
 of the locality, that I must be a stranger. I told him 
 
 i I 
 
A SIAVE OWNER 
 
 IJl 
 
 wiio, and what T wjih (;. Hritisli siilialttTii on fiirldngli ), 
 and tlion my old friend (lie told nic lie was st-ventv) 
 CDnmicnccd a speech Jiliu.ut slavery, which it wouM lia,v«' 
 cditicd Mrs. Stowc herself to have listened to. His 
 l;in''ViaL'e with rcLiard to that ladv's famous production 
 was forcihle, thouj^di ,ot particidarly ele^^•u^t ; and he 
 spoke with the earnestness, and indij^nuition of a man 
 whoso character, or fair fame had been unjustly taken 
 iiway. He tohl me liis father was an Enj^dishman, and 
 he hoped that F, as an Ku'^lish otficer, would endiracc 
 every opportunity for observation or investigation which 
 presented itself, and use my best efforts, if myself con- 
 vinced, to disabuse the minds of my friends, and (I 
 think the old gentleman said) the public generally, of 
 the prejudices, and false notions they had formed from 
 reading that string of lies, which endeavoured to shelter 
 themselves in a cabin. "You couldn't buy my slaves, 
 sir,*' said he, very vehemently, "they wouldn't leave 
 UK"," and such is the case very fre(piently. " Tliey 
 enjoy," he added, " more comforts, and are better pro- 
 vided for and happier, than thousands of your white coun- 
 trymen in the large manufacturing towns of England." 
 He told me t(^ go to their church, observe their appear- 
 ance, and demeanour, and note the neatness, and care 
 with which they were dressed, and the perfect liberty 
 they enjoyed during tlie Sabbath. I promised to do all 
 this, and ))id(ling my friend good-bye, after hearing him 
 descant on the comparative salubrity of his situation 
 (near a moimd of oyster-shells in a state of partial de- 
 composition), returned towards the town of Savannah. 
 
 li 
 
 
 
 (I 
 
 [Jl 
 
122 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 * I rode towards a square, gloomy-looking house, 
 wliicli lie liad indicated to iiie in the distance, {uiil, 
 dismounting, knocked at the door to make furtlier 
 inquiries, according to n\v old friend's direction. 1 was 
 oljliged to repeat the rap several times, before it was 
 responded to; ;ind was just on the point of going away, 
 when the door was opened hy a gaunt negro, witli a 
 hollow voice, and imbecile manner, lie pointed out a 
 foot-path, which he said I must follow ; and in answer 
 to my inquiries as to the proprietor of the cheerful 
 mansion from whence he had emerged, told me it was a 
 pest-house, where patients ill with the small-pox were 
 placed I He relieved my mind a little by telling me 
 that there was no one afflicted with that disease in the 
 place at the time, and tliat there were but few cases, 
 except in the summer months. I did not feel inclined, 
 however, to prolong the conversation, but wished lay 
 friend good morning, and commenced tracking the 
 "bridle path" (as G. P. Iv. James would have called it) 
 throufdi the wood, 
 
 ' I soon reached the cemetery, a most secluded spot, 
 where you might easily fancy the weary lie at rest, and 
 the wicked cease from troubling. There was a holv, 
 sacred calm about it, harmonising well with the char- 
 acter of the place. The trees which adorn it, and 
 which give it a character peculiarly triste, and appro- 
 priate, are a descriptit)n of live-oak, more than one 
 hundred years old, planted in regular row^s, with the 
 funeral-looking moss hanging in weeping clusters from 
 their branches over the graves beneath. 
 
 I'm hi 
 
BONAVENTURE CEMETERY 
 
 123 
 
 ig bouse, 
 Liice, and, 
 e further 
 un. I was 
 re it was 
 •iiio- uwav, 
 ro, with a 
 uted oiU a 
 in answer 
 -i cheerful 
 le it was a 
 [-pox were 
 tellin-j; me 
 ^ase in the 
 few cases, 
 1 inclined, 
 ^•ished my 
 ckin;4' the 
 called it) 
 
 iided spot, 
 
 t rest, and 
 
 IS a holy, 
 
 the char- 
 
 n it, and 
 
 nd appro- 
 
 than one 
 
 , with the 
 
 sters from 
 
 'No one who has not sei-n these extraordinary and 
 beautiful trees can imagine the effect produced by 
 several rows of tlieni, with intertwining boughs, i)lanted 
 over a space of five ov six acres of ground. There are 
 hut few nionunients, and these generally phnn and 
 unpretending. No ]\Ir. Snooks, with millions of dollars, 
 has, as yet, erected a shapeless mass to his parents, 
 children, or wife ; and no ohl gentleman, with an eye to 
 the future, has engaged a last resting-place for himself 
 and family, built in the rectangular form, with an inti- 
 mation to the public, on the outside, tliat it is his 
 family vuult. I think I saw one vault of this descrip- 
 tion, but forebore to lool' at it. I rode home at a snmrt 
 canter, and reached my hotel just in time for dinner. 
 
 'At five I called on the English Consul {^h\ Moly- 
 ueux), wdiom, on second thoughts, I considered I ought 
 to apply to for my passport, as it would be unpatriotic 
 on my part to divert the fee from his pocket to that of 
 a foreigner. ]Mr. ]Molyneux was not at home. I left a 
 card, and walked through the town to the j)ark, where I 
 saw several young ladies, walking innocently, and in 
 pairs, with sprigs of jasmine in their hands — emblematic, 
 I am informed, of gi'ace, and elegance. Either the 
 gentlemen of the place thought themselves graceless, 
 and inelegant, or reserved the charms of their society 
 for tlie ball-room, and house ; but the young ladies 
 seemed to be left to waste their "grace and elegance" in 
 the <iveniug air alone. I would have given anything 
 for an introduction ; but I was obliged to sit looking on, 
 like a miserable fox among grapes. My Georgian friend 
 
 H 
 
 : :f 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ' 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 : 
 
124 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 i' ! 
 
 I f 
 
 , I 
 
 came to my relief, and I strolled aljout with liim, and 
 went to see the risino" generation instructed in the art 
 of dancing. The liitle things did very well, and there 
 were several pretty little girls, of about five or six, who 
 footed, and glanced it to perfection, and who will do 
 wonders, if they preserve the similitude of their present 
 smiles, and ankles. My friend, after arranging that I 
 should drive out with him to dine in the coiuitry at 
 twelve o'clock on Monday, left me, and I went home 
 to tea. 
 
 ^ March I3th. — After a short stroll 1 went to a 
 black church, according to my old friend Thunder! )olt 
 Bluff's advice. The service, I was told by a black at 
 the entrance, would commence in a few minutes, and he 
 politely conducted me to the pews especially reserved 
 for whites. These were exactly opposite the pulpit and 
 a kind of reading-desk below it, with an old bible on it, 
 and three or four chairs placed round, as I conjectured, 
 for the elders of the church. I was the only white man 
 present. The church was a rectangular, phiin room, 
 with windows resemlding those of an ordinary house in 
 size and appearance ; its walls had a dingy look and a 
 certain air of shabbiness, and poverty seemed to pervade 
 the whole place. 
 
 * The congregation assembled slowlv, and I had 
 time and opportunity for studying each individual that 
 entered. The men were all respectably, some well 
 dressed; the women, generally speaking, patronised 
 gaudy colours, but looked very nice, and tidy. I got 
 tired of waiting for the clergyman, but was relieved l>y 
 
 41 
 
 m 
 
A BLACK CONGREGATION 
 
 125 
 
 a man in yellow ''n-ecches voluntarily taking upon him- 
 self the duties of pastoi-, and, after a brief expression 
 of regret at the shej^herd's absence, commencing the 
 service by reciting a hymn of six verses. This he re- 
 peated again two lines at a time, joined by the congre- 
 gation in a loud, harsh, nuisical chorus. After the 
 liynni, my friend (who had taken his stand at the desk 
 exactly opposite me) commenced an extempore prayer, 
 which was good, though a little abounding in tautology, 
 and was earnest and sincere in delivery. A sermon (on 
 certainly "an appropriate text for the occasion), " The 
 harvest truly is plenteous, but the labourers are few," 
 gave me an opportunity of forming a better estimate of 
 my volunteer's powers of composition. I[e preached 
 very sensibly. A hymn similar in length and execution 
 to the one preceding it, and another prayer, delivered 
 from the centre of the church, at the request of the 
 gentleman officiating, by a member of the congregation, 
 completed the service. I saw a good deal of friendly 
 Lauds-shaking, like the " how-dye-do" at an English 
 village church on Sunday ; u; d, as it was hardly twelve, 
 went to another church, white this time, and heard 
 another sermon. After the completion of this second 
 service I called again on the consid's ; and, hearing that 
 he was out, but expected home in a few minutes, took a 
 seat in a comfortably-furnished room, ornamented with 
 portraits of "H. M. G. 31." and " H. K. H." and par- 
 liamentary companions, navy lists, &c., on the table, 
 all remindins: one of Old England, to await his return. 
 A gentleman (whom I at first took for the consul) occu- 
 
 '-;; 
 
 i 1 
 
 i I: 
 
 i i 
 
126 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 i 
 
 ,! ! 
 
 > I 
 
 pied a chair when I entered, and exchanged a few 
 commonplaces with me. Our consul soon came in, 
 shook hands with me very cordially, and asked me to 
 dinner. He was a grey-haired old gentleman, who had 
 filled the office of consul for thirty years, and a thorough 
 Englishman in appearance and maimer. His wife was 
 a nice person, and I soon felt myself at home diniiiL? 
 with the pair; I had a snug little dinner, and a good 
 glass of wine after it, and talked to mine host about 
 Canada, the K. jM. A. at Woolwich, and the army. He 
 told me he had a son at Rughy, who wished to go into tlie 
 army ; and a daughter whom he occasionally yisited at a 
 school at New York. He drove me out in a tilbury — a 
 good old English tilbury ! — to see a great raihvay termi- 
 nus which is in course of construction, and will be the ter- 
 minus of the railway to NewOrleans and the inlandtowiis, 
 and cities of the south. In a few years the facilities of 
 communication in this part of the country will have 
 much increased. Xovj, a person may travel by railway, 
 and steamer across the country to within five or six 
 miles of New Orleans. 
 
 * One or two gent', men came in during tL^ evenin''. 
 and a slow scientific discussion on the merits of tlie 
 Ericson hot air vessel was C(/mmenced. I waited for a 
 pause, rose, and said " Good night," promising to come 
 to breakfast at eight o'clock the next morning. 
 
 ^ March I4th. — Wet morning. Borrowed an um- 
 brella from the man at the bar, and sallied out to the 
 consul's. Met Mr. JNIurray at breakfast. He is a 
 Charleston man, and had been educated with the elegant 
 
CHARLESTON RACES 
 
 12: 
 
 mayor of tlint city. He told me that tlie moiitli of 
 February wjis the most favonra1)le one for seeing 
 Charleston in its ,L,dory, as ])eople flocked there then 
 from all parts of the States to the races. These races 
 he descrihed as l)ein!4' ^'i^ l'*'st in America; the horses 
 are ridden by niL;L;er hoys, who take an immense deal 
 of pride in their master's horses, and would scorn the 
 offer of a bribe to lose a race. The racing is, therefore, 
 jiist what it ought to be, a fair and generous competition 
 between a nmnber of noble aiiimals. Murray further 
 said that English gentlemen, officers from Canada, were 
 invited to all the balls, and to participate in all the 
 amusements of the places He, I Avas happy to learn, 
 had experienced much kindness from the T'Jth Kegijuent 
 when he visited (Quebec, and, I think, he had formed, 
 and, I hope, diffused, a favourable opinion of the hos- 
 pitality of the l^ritish army. John J^ull, whatever may 
 be said against him, is a sociable animal, and feels as 
 much pleasure in securing a wanderer, and ])lacing his 
 legs under his mahogany, as an experienced fisherman 
 in successfully landing a fine salmon or trout. .Aly 
 friend ^lolvneux (the consul), who had these true John 
 Bullian feelings, wanted me to dine with him again ; 
 and when I pleaded previous engagements, invited me, 
 on my return from "the Havana,"" to stay at his house 
 till the boat started for New York. [ only gave a 
 (qualified assent. ]Molyneux drove me to my lu^tel, and 
 shook hands with me. He would take nothing for my 
 passport, but said it was a general rule that no charge 
 should be made to gentlemen wearing her ^Majesty's 
 
 
 ."1 
 
 Mi 
 
 1 7: 
 
 '1 i 
 
123 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 I t 
 
 i' 
 
 livery. I found that Thackeray and Crowe had arrived, 
 and walked over to tlie American Hotel to see them. 
 They were very badly accommodated; the liotel was 
 dirty and imcomfortable, and the beds well inhabited 
 with a busy and thrivini>- population. They could get 
 no rooms at the Pidaski-house. 
 
 ' A very scraj^'gy-lookin^ man, whom I afterwards dis- 
 covered was a member of a deputjition from " the Young 
 jNIen's Association," was engaged in conversation witli 
 Thackeray when I entered. I afterwards heard that he 
 felt favourably disposed towards me, and would have 
 shown me the lions, and probably feasted me, had I 
 stayed at Savannah. 
 
 * Crowe was pleased with the trees and squares, and 
 the general appearance of the place. They expected a 
 deputation, so I left them and went back to my hotel, 
 where I packed a dress suit in my carpet-bag, to change 
 for dinner when I got into the coimtry. My Georgian 
 friend called about twelve o'clock, and we started 
 together at half-past twelve in a light buggy. ]My 
 attention was attracted, while going through a wood, by 
 a number of large, dark birds perched on the trees; 
 my companion told me they were turkey bustards, the 
 scavengers of the Southern cities, and that it was illegal 
 to shoot one. I subsec^uently saw a number of these 
 gaunt, unpleasant-looking birds hard at work, picking 
 up scraps near the market-place at Charleston. The 
 proprietor of the house I was about to dine at, was tlie 
 son of a Scotchnum (a Mr. INI'Alpine), who had com- 
 menced life with nothing but his wits and a stu:pence, 
 
A DAT IN THE COUNTRY 
 
 129 
 
 rrivod, 
 tlieiii. 
 el was 
 laViitcd 
 lid get 
 
 rds dis- 
 Yoiuii^ 
 m wit] I 
 tluit lie 
 Id have 
 , had I 
 
 res, and 
 3ected a 
 y hotel, 
 
 clianj^'e 
 eori^'ian 
 
 started 
 
 ood, by 
 trees ; 
 ds, the 
 illeo-al 
 ■ tlie.se 
 kicking 
 The 
 was the 
 d coin- 
 j:pence, 
 
 and by energy and l)rickmaking had accinnulated a 
 large fortune, and built a good house. The property 
 (according to law in this part of the country) was left 
 to be evenly divided among all the children, the eldest 
 son managing it for himself and the rest, and getting 
 nothing but one share in the spoil for his trouble ; a 
 most ridiculous custom, and the ruin of many line 
 estates. Passing through a straight avenue of trees, 
 we came to a little street of negro huts ; ipiaint, square, 
 peculiar nut-shells, with padlocks on the doors, and a 
 tire, or the remains of one, burning on a vessel in front 
 of each, and designed to keep off the insects. The 
 proprietor's house, which was handsome, stood, unfor- 
 tunately, on very low ground, and was near the muddy 
 marshy river; the brothers, who were practising ritle 
 shooting, received me very cordially. The eldest I was 
 particularly pleased with ; a kind-liearted, fine, good 
 fellow. He was much more like an Englishman than an 
 American. He shewed me his place, his brickmaking, 
 his saw-mills, horses, rice, &c., and pointed out several 
 localities which had been the scenes of skirmishes and 
 encounters during the American war. (Jne tree near 
 liis house still retained traces of a cannon ball, which 
 had been, he conjectured, fired by the Britishers to 
 ascertain their range before opening a cannonade from 
 their batteries. Sickness and fever had killed more 
 men than the sword on this occasion. 
 
 ' Women (negresses of course) were employed at 
 brickmaking a« well as the men; they seemed very 
 strong, and able to work very hard. The system my 
 
 ,!! 
 
 I t 
 
 ! ! 
 
 !l 
 
 l! 
 
 • I 
 
 ' i ' 
 ( 
 
 : ; i 
 t ■ I 
 
 \\ 
 
 Ji 
 
 l;; 
 
 i f 
 
 
130 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ! 
 
 ; i 
 
 n 
 
 V * ■ 
 
 % 
 
 friend employed w.as that of tasks, — a very judicious 
 one. A certain fair amount of work is to lie gut 
 througli, and then liurrali ! for li])erty. I have always 
 preferred this phm to the monotonous lazy drud^-ery of 
 so many ho\irs' work. Tlie nii;'«4'ers were wlieeHui;- 
 barrows of bricks, so heavy and piled up, that I, 
 thougli tolerably strong", could scarcely even lift the 
 arms of the barrow. 
 
 ' In a return of births and deaths, published at 
 Charleston, seven blacks are reported as having- died ovei* 
 a hundred years old, and between the ages of twenty 
 and thirty but few negroes had died ; where a corre- 
 sponding return shewed great mortality among the 
 whites. This speaks something for the care with whicli 
 the skives are treated, and the comforts they must enjoy 
 in their old age. We had a plain, liomely, country 
 farmer's dinner, and smoked some cigars afterwards. 
 None of my new acquaintances wer(!: particularly re- 
 fined either in manner or conversation. They were 
 kind hospitable people, however, and the elder brother 
 <|uite realized in my mind, Pope's " noblest work of 
 Crod." To bed at eleven. 
 
 ^ Mdrcli \5th. — Walked out before breaktjxst to the 
 Exchange to get a view of the city and surroundinL;' 
 country. Savannah looks something like a vast garden: 
 the trees have a beautiful effect. 
 
 ' There were a great many passengers, and a vast 
 number of trunks and portmanteaus for the Havana 
 })oat. We were all to start in a little steamer at nine, 
 and lay off the bar till the Isabel from Charleston came 
 
 3t' 
 
AN rNTLKASAM VOYAGE 
 
 l.Tl 
 
 in si<;lit. The day became lovely. I sat on deck 
 reading "The Caxt(»ns,"' and looking- at the passing 
 vessels sailing or steaming in or out of the harbour. 
 We passed a small steamer with funnels near the bows, 
 and decks piled with bales of cotton, till she looked a 
 large shapeless mass : vessels laden thus will carry an 
 inmiense freight. We had a wretched dinner on board 
 our "wee*" boat, and lay off Pulaski P'ort, — a large 
 s(|uare work, recently completed at gre.at expense, 
 near the mouth of the river. I inspected the fort ; it 
 is casemated, and has great bomb-proof accommodation. 
 It will be very heavily armed when the guns are moimted 
 on the pivots designed for them. 
 
 ' It has only one outwork, a weak ravelin, with a 
 narnnv ditch not more than twelve feet broad ; the 
 ditch of the main work is about thirty feet in breadth. 
 Tlie escarp is exposed, and the faces of the work are 
 long, and miglit probably be enfiladed by a steamer at 
 a distance ; the guns will be mounted eti fxtrhctfe. 
 The sides of the scpuire are broken into small bastions ; 
 the firo from the casenuites would render the passage of 
 the ditch dangerous. 
 
 ' There were a good many passengers on board the 
 [s((b('l. A group of ladies, looking pale and interesting, 
 were sittini; imder a kind of roof in the centre of the 
 passengers' deck. Our party was shipped in small boats, 
 wliich, owing to a swell, was rather a troublesome job. 
 
 ' March \(')fh. — Came on deck feeling rather sick; 
 all the ladies had disappeared fr(jm the scene, and were 
 ^tretclied on btids and sofas in various attitudes of 
 
 K 2 
 
 i ' 
 
 I 
 
 
 i; 
 f . 
 
 l", 
 
 /l 
 
 t '!' 
 
'H 
 
 
 132 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 wretchedness. There were sixty-five passengers f)n 
 board, and nearly every berth taken. I was (loul)led 
 up with a sea-captain, with stentorian Kings and excel- 
 lent constitution. I occupied the upper berth, and 
 generally found my companion, with his clothes on, 
 asleep when 1 turned in. He never snored, and got up 
 at daybreak — two very desirable qualities. Every one 
 looked miserable. I felt a vertigo in my head, but 
 persevered in reading. The wind was cold and raw, 
 and blew in a most deterinined manner. P\)r a larjie 
 steamer the Isabel is a very l)ad sea-boat, rolling and 
 pitching tremendously. I managed to keep the demon 
 of sea-sickness at bay, and eventually completely tri- 
 umphed over him. The gale delayed the steamer, and 
 we made very little headway. 
 
 * March \7tk. — The same monotony as yesterday, but 
 in sight of the Florida coast greater part of the day. 
 
 : ; 
 
133 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ( r 
 
 KEY WEST AND THE HAVANA. 
 
 March 18th. 
 
 ' 4 LOVELY clay. We had passed from the regions of 
 -^ winds and storms into a calm sea, and a delicious, 
 halmy air. It is about 10 a.m. We are approaching 
 Key West, near the extremity of the Florida Keef. 
 Several little deserted coral islands are in the distance, 
 and we see occasionally the white sails and elegant out- 
 line of a cutter, relieved by the blue sky beyond. Most 
 of the passengers are on deck — pale, pretty faces, 
 scarcely recovered from the effects of that terrible 
 storm ; but the sea now looks so placid and beautiful, 
 and the air is so soothing, that they must soon recover ; 
 besides, we are approaching land, and land is a nuigic 
 word. We are to have a long rest at Key West (rhyme 
 unintentional). We shall land and roam about it, shall 
 get off that abominable little deck, and be able to walk 
 hundreds of yards without turning. Ha I there are the 
 stars, and stripes floating on the American barracks ! 
 Two or three companies of artillery are stationed there, 
 — a dull quarter I should think ; there is, however, 
 
 ! 1^ 
 
 
 il 1 
 
134 
 
 CANADA AND THE CKIMKA 
 
 I f 
 
 plenty of fi.sliiiij^' iuifl boatiiif,', T suppose. Tlicre is tlie 
 towii,a,n(l a fort tluy are build ini;'. Kroinall those (|ueer 
 seuffol(liii;^s they look out for wrecks, and can see it 
 vessel on the reefs a.t a <;reat distance. The |i(;oj>le here 
 fjjain their livelihood by \vreekinL>-, L»eneraliy speaking;, 
 besides which they catch and sell turtle. 
 
 'There was no use in coutinuinj,' our voyage, a> we 
 should have found the harbour of the JIavana closed 
 a<j;ainst us, and Ix-en fired into if we had attempted 
 to enter it. We were too late to reach it befon^ 
 sunset. We will stay at Key West till the eveniuj;-, and 
 cross the gulf durin*;' the nii;ht. We hope to see the; 
 sun rise over the island of Cuba. But now what shall 
 we do? We have a ^-ood deal to look at. What a 
 strange place this is where we have suddenly found 
 ourselves, and are so unexpectedly to pass the day at I 
 Let us look about us. 
 
 ' ]Marcy and myself strolled along the beach, and 
 picked up a few small and pretty shells to ])reserve as 
 mementos. The sun was terrifically hot, and, after 
 walking about a quarter of a mile, we were not sorry to 
 take shelter in the friendly shade of the Marine Hos- 
 pital. Here we had a chat with an attendant, a re- 
 spectable, middle-aged, sallow man. He told us that, 
 during the summer, there were frequently the entire 
 crews of ships in hospital there with yellow fever. They 
 came principally from New Orleans. There was no 
 disease produced in the island itself, which was exempt 
 from the ordinary scourges of a hot climate. There 
 was a breeze continually blowing, but little rain, and no 
 
KEY WEST 
 
 13ft 
 
 colli weather, (iales of wiiul were not fre(|ueiit. Most 
 of the wrecks t(»<»k plac(^ in culiii wcutlicr; they were 
 occasioned by the etVect of the gu It-stream on vesneKs 
 whicli liad become becahiied. " Why don't tliey,*' said 
 I, "iiave a smnll t\v^ steamer to tow tin ni beyond 
 the reefs in eahn weatiu'r'/ Surely it is worth tiio 
 cx])ense." "1 don't know, Sir," replied the nmn. 
 .Alany of the vessels iire fully insiu'ed, and, when tliey 
 are old ships, they often run npiui the reefs on purpose. 
 Jiives are scarcely ever lost. The wreckers get thirty 
 per cent. (I afterwards learned) of the value of the cargo 
 they save. The wrecking schooners, and cutters are 
 fust sailers, and beinitiful-louking craft. I saw a little 
 schooner ajtparently just off the stocks, and as trim 
 and as neat as a genth-man's vacht. She was rigged 
 rather like the celebrated America. These wrecking 
 vessels draw very little water, and are able to sail 111- 
 side the reefs, where they are (juite protected from the 
 action of the gidf-streani. They average, I should 
 think, from thirty to 150 or 200 tons. Numerous hsh- 
 iug boats sail with fish from Key West to the Havana, 
 starting from one place with American colours; and 
 entering the other with Spanish. The fish caught in 
 these seas are gorgeous to look at, the sun, it would 
 seem, even illumining their scales " in the depths of the 
 sea ;" but they are tasteless and insipid to eat. Give 
 me the fish, fruits and flowers of a temperate clime ! 
 Key West, aljout which and over which I liave been 
 rambling, is an island about twenty miles long, at the 
 extremity of a coral reef which stretches in the form of 
 
 Mr 
 
 ■11 
 

 136 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 a curve from the southernmost point of Florida into 
 the Gulf of Mexico. It is a most important point, as 
 it commands the entrance to the gulf. It belongs to 
 the State of Florida, and contains a larger population 
 than any other town or city in that barren tract, num- 
 bering about 3000 souls. It is at present the southern 
 limit of the United States. The inhabitants are partly 
 American, and partly emigrants from the Bahamas, 
 who at elections hoist a flag with a shell on it as an 
 emblem of royalty. They are a miserable set, and live 
 in dirty wood huts in a state of great filth and discom- 
 fort. They left the Bahamas on account of the libera- 
 tion of the blacks in those islands. The Yankees try to 
 paint them worse than they are, but I am inclined to 
 think that their principal vices are ignorance and 
 poverty. They gain their livelihood entirely by wreck- 
 ing. I do not recollect ever seeing so many drinking 
 establishments ; every third house seemed to be dedi- 
 cated to Bacchus, though I must add, in justice, that 
 soda-water and cooling drinks seemed almost as much 
 in demand as more inflammatory beverages. Key West 
 enjoys a delightful climate ; the lowest point to which 
 the thermometer falls in winter is about fifty-nine de- 
 grees, and this is considered so cold that fires are lighted. 
 The constant breeze which blows in some degree 
 mitigates the extreme summer heat, though, from the 
 nature of the soil, and the few trees growing on it, 
 the heat is terrific. I thought the place hotter than 
 the Havana. As may be supposed, the inhabitants 
 experience much difficulty in procuring fresh meat 
 
KEY WEST 
 
 137 
 
 and vegetables ; there is little or no pasturage on the 
 island, and the staple articles of consumption are fish 
 and turtle. They have dates, cocoa-nuts, and lime>, 
 as fruits. I did not see any orange-trees. Some of 
 the houses are prettily built, with tastefully-arranged 
 little gardens in front, indicating a respectable class 
 of inhabitants. 1 was told that there were some very 
 rich people living there. 
 
 '1 alone strolled along the shore on the side oppo- 
 site to that along which I had wandered with ]Marcy 
 in the morning, the heat keeping all the other pas- 
 sengers in the ship quiet ; and observed, among other 
 things, some boats coming in laden with sponges, 
 another source of wealth. These sponges are coarse, 
 and cannot compare at all with those from Turkey. 
 I felt inclined for a bathe, but refrained on account 
 of the sharks, which occasionally deprive you of a 
 supporter, if they don't swallow you whole. I heard of 
 a woman who was sitting on a wharf with one foot 
 dangling in the v^ater, when a shark coolly nipped it off. 
 I was told, however, by an intelligent serjeant with 
 whom I had a chat at the barracks, that during the 
 three years he had been at Key West he had only heard 
 of one soldier who had been bitten, though the men 
 were constantly in the habit of bathing. The ])arracks, 
 near the military hospital, are built with verandahs on 
 every side, and looked cool and comfortable. I re- 
 gained my steamer at about two o'clock, at which hour 
 we sat down to dinner, there being a full muster of 
 passengers. After dinner I mounted to the top of one 
 
 11 
 
 \ ■ 
 
 I'i- 
 
 I? ; 
 
 li 
 
 I ! 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 
'I 
 
 I ; 
 
 133 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRDIEA 
 
 of the look-out towers, and enjoyed the view of the 
 little town and surrounding islets very much. 
 
 ''March Ivth. — At ahout six o'clock, on a lovely 
 morninf^, a group of expectant passengers might ho 
 ohserved crowded tojjether on the hows of the <fO()(l 
 steamer Isabel, straining their eyes to discern more 
 distinctly the details of the scenes which were opening 
 to their view. In the distance was the steamer from 
 New York, which we had passed when contending witli 
 the gale of wind off the coast of Florida. She had not 
 been following so correct a course as ourselves, and 
 had not exactly hit the entrance of the harbour, so we 
 were before her. As we gradually approached, the 
 stern old ]Morro Castle, with its frowning ramparts and 
 lighthouse, became visible, and the Spanish flag (red 
 and yellow) was clearly seen floating above it. Frown- 
 ing behind and above the Morro is " El Cabanos," the 
 great fortress of Havana, built on a steep rock, 
 scarped and inaccessible, on the side of the har])()ur, 
 near its entrance, and opposite the city. The city itself 
 is not seen properly till the liarbour is entered. TIk^ 
 entrance with the old "Morro" standing like a grim 
 sentinel on one side, and a little fort opposite, looking 
 as defiant as its size will permit it, is so narrow, that a 
 steamer is obliged to move very slowly through it, to 
 avoid swamping small boats that may be passing. 
 What a beautiful harbom* ! is everybody's exclamation, 
 and how elegant and picturescpie those noble palms are ! 
 Ah I there is the town : what a singular old place I 
 There's a Spanish regiment dra^^'n up on parade, with 
 
HAVANA 
 
 139 
 
 ! 
 
 I, 
 
 more 
 
 the band playing; what soldier-like little fellows they 
 look, and how pretty their imiforni is I we must have a 
 close l(jok at them when we get on shore ; Init when is 
 that to be? that is the ([Uestion; we have a great deal 
 of formal misery to undergo before we shall be fit or 
 worthy to plant our feet on the territory of Her ]Most 
 Christian Majesty. There goes the anchor, we are 
 moored off the Alameda de Paula. 
 
 ' After a general survey of the harbour, and a longing 
 look of anticipated pleasure in the city, I began t(j be 
 iinxious to get my permit to land, from three Spanish 
 officials, who had been engaged in examining passports 
 ill a little cabin, for a (|uarter of an hour or more, and 
 whose exit was watched and wished for ])y us all most 
 lieartily. Formal, empty-headed looking fellows they 
 were, with their white trowsers and sallow complexions. 
 At last the ■\\i •. ^'- of a portion at least of the expectant 
 crowd appeal , ^e gratified. Permits are issued, and 
 two dollars a-piece are paid for them. When the clerk 
 of the steamer, with countenance in which annoyance 
 strufr«"-led with fear, came to me and told me that in 
 consec[uence of my passport not having been properly 
 vizeed by the Spanish Consid at Savannah I could not 
 he allowed to land I Here was a blow ; the cup dashed 
 from my lips when just on the point of tasting it. I 
 felt bitterly disappointed and annoyed, as I saw ])oats 
 conung alongside of the steamer, and passenger after 
 passenger descending into them, until the deck was 
 cleared, and I left only with the ship's officers, besides 
 one Spaniard, who almost cried with annoyance, being 
 
 
 ! I 
 
 f > 
 
 •M 
 
 ; ri' 
 
140 
 
 CANADA AND THE CBIMEA 
 
 ill 
 
 in a similar position with myself. I determined to be 
 as philosophic as possible, had my portmanteau trans- 
 ferred to my state room, breakfasted with the captain, 
 and afterwards proceeded to dress myself in as cool and 
 respectable a costume as I could select from my rather 
 limited wardrobe. I wrote a letter to our consul, en- 
 
 ck jed in it J 's letter of introduction, and remained 
 
 in a state of suspense, between hope, doubt, and anger, 
 making sketches of houses, &c., from the deck of the 
 steamer. The day was most lovely, and the harbour 
 with its varied shipping, bounded by green hills or 
 picturesque terraces and frowning ramparts, in itself a 
 picture. Vessel after vessel with her white sails set, 
 glided beautifully into the still expanse of water, and 
 came gracefully to her moorings. The stars and stripes 
 of the United States floated in most cases with swagger- 
 ing splendour from their mizens. Near our steamer was 
 a brig which the captain told me had been captured as 
 a slaver by the English cruisers, and was now the sub- 
 ject of litigation, her owners having positively denied 
 that she was ever intended for the west coast of Africa : 
 he added that the Cubans winked at the departure of 
 slave brigs from the harbour of the Havana at night. 
 Our commodore was apprised of this circumstance ])y 
 an English sailor, who happened to be on board one of 
 the brigs, and he immediately sent a frigate after them, 
 which brought them to, boarded them, and on discover- 
 ing the nefarious purpose for which they were intended, 
 took all these vessels quietly in tow in a line, and 
 brought them into the harbour of the Havana that 
 
TICKET OF LEAVE 
 
 141 
 
 evening. This decided step naturally rather diminished 
 the popularity of the English amongst the Cu])ans. 
 During the Lopez troubles, the Spaniards regarded old 
 England as one of their firmest and most powerful 
 aUies, and almost conceived that the only object she 
 li;id in retaining a squadron in the vicinity of their 
 coasts, was for the purpose of protecting them agr„inst 
 the republican spirit of annexation which had so dis- 
 agreeably developed itself in the neighbouring continent. 
 Their eyes by this decided step were somewhat roughly 
 opened to the true state of the case, and like a criminal 
 who after pleasant nocturnal visions, awakes to a true 
 consciousness of his real position, their guilty souls 
 became suddenly and impleasantly aware that tliere 
 were such things as truth, and the fulfilment of solemn 
 engagements, and that there was a power which would 
 protect and enforce both. 
 
 'My captain took compassion on me, and allowed me 
 about half-past eleven o'clock to go ashore with a friend 
 of his, who was to take me to the consul's, where I was 
 to endeavour to obtain a permit ; in case of failure, I 
 was on my parole to return to the steamer, as the 
 captain was liable to be fined if he had suffered me to 
 land without the usual forms having been complied 
 with. I rejoiced at the hopes of emancipation, and 
 cheerfully stepped into the little boat, with a white 
 awning and graceful sail, which was to convey me to 
 tlie much desired terra firma. INIr. Wolcott (my guide) 
 and myself after walking along a hot sandy road for a 
 few paces, stepped into a volante, and began to thread 
 
 • ;'.. 
 
 ! ! 
 
 i(? 
 
 iM 
 
 
 I'l 
 
142 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 the narrow and intricate mazes of the city of Havana. 
 Our veliicle was singular and unique, and demands a 
 description. Imagine a body sometliing like that of 
 a Hansom cab, — only lighter, suspended on heavy 
 leathern springs, attached to an axletree some distance 
 behind it, on which revolve two enormous wdieels, six 
 feet in diameter, drawn by a comical little horse, out' 
 mass of harness, his tail ciirefully plaited and stored 
 away, like a loop on one flank, and a heavy old-fashioned 
 saddle on his back, bestridden by a large negro in 
 enormous boots, and you will have ;i picture before you 
 of the ordinary vehicle used in Havana, and in fact ttie 
 only one, I may safely say, wdnch the Spaniards or 
 natives ever employ. A kind of blind rolled up in cool 
 weather at the top of the hood, and drawn down over tlie 
 face during the heat of the day, protects from the rays 
 of the sun. A volante is by no means an uncomfortable 
 vehicle : it is a lara'e loun2:in<i' kind of a «jt>nvevance. 
 where you may loll at ease, and enjoy the otluin etna 
 dujiiltate of existence. 
 
 ' We found on in([uiry at the consul's house that lie 
 w\as out, but supposed to be at his son's office ; thither 
 we accordingly repaired, and were fortunate enoui;li 
 this time in nailing our man. ]\Ir. Crawf()rd I found a 
 o'entlemanlv middle-a^'ed man : he had never received 
 or heard anything of the letter I had sent ashore for 
 him in the morning ; but on my stating my case to him, 
 wrote a letter immediately to the secretary lO the captain 
 general, praying him, in excellent Spanish, to give per- 
 mission to Lieutenant George Ranken, of the * Guerpu 
 
Havniia. 
 mauds a 
 I that r.f 
 ri heavy 
 
 distance 
 heels, six 
 oi'se, one 
 id st(uv(l 
 fjxsliioHi'd 
 Qe<;T() in 
 efore yi»u 
 1 fact tne 
 tiiards or 
 ip ill cool 
 
 over tlie 
 
 the rays 
 nfortahle 
 ivevaiice, 
 
 um CLlin 
 
 e that lie 
 thither 
 
 enouu'h 
 ' found a 
 
 received 
 shore for 
 e to him, 
 e captain 
 give per- 
 
 ' Cuerpo 
 
 FKEEDOir 
 
 del In2,'enieri,' to land on the soil of Cuha. 
 
 143 
 
 Armed 
 
 with this important document, I aijain started forth 
 with the oblii^-iiif,^ Wolcott, and found myself within a 
 few minutes sitting in the pahice of the captain general 
 with a S})anisli agent of Wcdcott's, "waiting in ])ainful 
 suspense for the decision of the secretary. That fuiic- 
 tionarv was husilv eni>-aLred, and niv letter could not for 
 some time be taken up to him. Instantly upon receiving 
 it, however, he gave orders that a free permit should 
 he given me : and, elated with success, I hiUitened to 
 the amiable Wolcott, and placed the scrawl of pardon 
 in liis honest palm. I found my way to my hotel, 
 where I found one of my American friends, and took 
 a walk with him through the streets, visiting the Catlie- 
 dral and the Tacon Theatre. 
 
 ' The appearance of the city is very peculiar and 
 j)icturesque ; the houses are solidly built, but seldom 
 more than one storey high ; they have no windows, the 
 apertures into which in northern climes, these taxed 
 articles of luxury are fitted, are here filled with formi- 
 dable, burglar-defying iron bars, and thick, dark, 
 cool-lookinj; Venetian blinds, which cast a refreshinij: 
 shade over the whole interior of the apartments. The 
 rooms are fitted up in the most simple and unostenta- 
 tious manner; a side-board, table, and a few chairs 
 being generally the only furniture. 
 
 ' Senoritas might be seen at ease, reclining on rocking 
 chairs, lollin"' out the dav or thinking of their evening 
 drive on the Paseo. Under an archway at the side of 
 the house, or in a quadrangular courtyard attached to 
 
 H 
 
 I 
 
 I'l 
 

 iir 
 
 144 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 it, might be seen the ftimily voUmte. Negresses were 
 smoking cigarettes or pipes, and sturdy, naked, bhick 
 little urchins running about and basking in the sun ; 
 not afraid of their complexions, certainly. 
 
 *My friend and I found our way to the cathedral, — a 
 cathedral consecrated by the dust of the great discoverer 
 of America. The ashes of Columbus are deposited be- 
 neath a mean marble slab, near the altar of the UKxst 
 tawdry and unsubstantial Koman Catholic church I have 
 ever seen. 
 
 'A small bas-relief, by a native of Cuba, of his head, 
 and an inscriptioji, equally unwortliy of the man or the 
 country which produced him, are all that assist, or 
 rather destroy, the sensations of the traveller, when he 
 stands over the remains of this great man. The altar, 
 and pulpit near, are from Rome. 
 
 ' The exterior of the cathedral, though possessing no 
 architectural merits, is yet picturesque and interesting, 
 from its venerable greyness. An old pile, over which 
 the hand of time has passed — not to destroy, but to 
 soften and im])rove, — is at all times a pleasing and 
 interesting object. It is regarded with almost a re- 
 ligious reverence, and it deserves to be so. 
 
 ' To Americans, these time-worn grey walls must 
 possess a peculiar charm, after the sharp regular lines 
 which distinguish their rapidly produced cities and 
 buildings, which start int(j life, and, I might almost 
 say, topple over with the same rapidity as fairy card 
 palaces, such as delighted our younger days. 
 
145 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 HAVANA — DE RAMOS, FALM-SUNDAY — A DINNER ^yITH 
 THE ENGLISH CONSUL — RETUUN TO MONTREAL. 
 
 ' ^r.ircli 20tll. 
 
 ' rriHIS is the great day for pleasure and amusement 
 -■- in Havana. The weather was lovely ; the air soft and 
 delightful. I sallied out inunediately after breakfast, and 
 made for the cathedral, whither, it was rumoured, the 
 Captain-General, after entertaining most of the pu])lic 
 functionaries at breakfast, was to proceed, attended by 
 his guards. 
 
 ' The cathedral was decorated with real legitimate 
 palm leaves, plaited most tastefully and prettily, laid 
 upon the altar, find in other conspicuous places. When 
 I arrived, the service had evidently commenced vsome 
 time. I stole along a side aisle, and reached a point 
 whence I could clearly and easily discern the features 
 of that redoubted hidalgo, the " Capitan- General.'' He 
 wore a blue uniform, covered witli stars and orders. 
 He had well-cut, commanding features, with a grave, 
 gentlemanly, proud expression, and stood nearly six 
 feet high. He appeared to pay great attention to tlie 
 service. Almost all the Captains-General of Cuba have 
 
 L 
 
 ! 
 
 1 I 
 
 ^^i\ 
 
14H 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 been officers of liiu^h rank in tlic Sjaiiisli army, and the 
 present one is no exception to that rule ; Init wliere he 
 can have distinniiislied himself to have worthily earned 
 all his decorations, I am at a loss to conceive. The 
 whole of the hody of the cathedral was occnpicnl hy 
 senoritas of all aires and sizes, kneeling; on flieir niirs, 
 and occasionally, in the intervals of fanning*, glancinjif 
 wirh an indi»lent air of devotion, (»n their prayer-books. 
 So many l)lack eyes I liave never seen collected before, 
 nor so many picturesr|uely dressed women. The man- 
 tilla is a very becominj^' head-dress, and tliere is a grace 
 and elegance about it which has never l)een attained by 
 the mijst perfect specimen of Parisian taste. In the art 
 of using l)oth their eyes and their fans, the Spanish 
 women are supposed to excel all (others. It is said that 
 they have the power of expressing any tender feeling 
 or sentiment by nieans of this elegajit little appendage. 
 Tills is having the art of love ahjour fuifjers^ oids with 
 a vengeance ! I did not neglect the favoural)le oppor- 
 tunity afforded me ])y this collection of Spanish beauty 
 to criticise and make reflections. I studied the mass of 
 human heads and faces attentively ; and, though I saw 
 numbers who were interesting and pleasing, I could not 
 detect one face which, except by contrast, would have 
 been called beautiful in England. This may, perhaps, 
 be owing to the prevailing olive tint of the complexion, 
 and consequent pallor of the cheek, depriving youtli of 
 half its charm and freshness, or to the gradual effect of 
 a tropical climate. I saw several alarmingly fat old 
 ladies, worthy helpmates for Daniel Lambert. The 
 
THE CATHEDRAL 
 
 ur 
 
 service i^i the catlicdriil was not imposiii<;-. It was ([uitt' 
 plain and luipretendini;" iittcr tiic ^onu'oonsiicss of I,:i 
 
 Madelcint'. <•!• St. Kocli, :it I*ari> 
 
 T\ 
 
 If altar 
 
 (it 1 
 
 M>m<4 
 
 (t 
 
 Passi(»ii-W('('k ) were all in muuriiiiiL,'. I slmuld ii.Ufli 
 have lik<'d, had it been possililc, to have rciiiaiiu'd t 
 witness the leligions ceremonies of (Jood Friday and 
 Easter Sunday. The fonncr of tliese days is most 
 strictly observed. No vehiclo is permitted to traverse 
 the streets, the shops are all closed, and 1< ni,' ])rocessioiis, 
 in which a tii^'ure representing;- the dead body (^f our 
 Saviour is borne, traverse the silent streets in solemn 
 pomp. On Easter Sunday the ])eoi)le, as if suddenly 
 relieved from a stern restraint, plunge, as the En^dish 
 did on the Kestoration, into gaiety and pleasure. The 
 theatres are open, balls take place, occasionally a 
 bull-fiL;ht lends its inspiring* aid; and every one, with 
 religious enthusiasm, devotes himself, or herself to 
 personal enjoyment. 
 
 par- 
 ated 
 
 I went into several churches; none of them 
 
 ticnlarh 
 
 d 
 
 dl 
 
 f 
 
 y impressed me; all were, oi course, decor 
 witli palm leaves. The fish-market was open for the 
 wants of good Catholics. The fish displayed for sale 
 are of bright tropical colours, — beautiful to look at, 
 but, I ])elieve, bad eating. In fact, with the exception 
 of fruits, Havana is not very satisfactorily supplied with 
 provisions. Meat very poor ; chickens as tough as shoe- 
 leather. 
 
 ' I dined with some friends at three, and at five 
 started out in an open carriage, drawn by two liorses, 
 for our great evening drive. The Paseo was crowded ; 
 
 L 2 
 
 I I 
 
 1 ' 
 

 148 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ( ■ 
 
 tlie voliuiti's almost toiicli«;(l each other. At ciicli cud 
 of th(i lon<jj avemio, and at the turns, were little lan- 
 cers on horseback, who took care that there was no 
 joekcyings or impropriety at the corners. 
 
 'Tlie ladies, in low dresses, with fans (^q-accful^ly wav- 
 ing, occupied the vehicles, "at ease reclining/' 
 
 ' We traversed the whok; length of the Paseo several 
 times, and after admiring the scene, and criticising the 
 varictus groups presented, like tdhhaux rirtins, to our 
 eyes, found ourselves in a few minutes crossing a draw- 
 bridge over a military ditch, and just entering the 
 Paseo d'Vsabel Segunda — the Great Drive. This drive 
 is a broad roail, planted on each side wuth elegant palm- 
 trees, and running parallel to the fortifications of the 
 town. Venerable, picturesque-looking old bastions, 
 which it would be a shame, on account of the facility 
 of the exploit, to breach. In this "Paseo*" is the 
 "Theatre del Tacon," of which the "Habeneros"' are 
 extremely proud, and which they show to strangers 
 with the exultant superiority of conscious excelleuce. 
 It is certainly a pretty house, the interior fitted up 
 with great taste, lightness, and elegance. In size it 
 must be inferior to our opera-house at Covent-garden. 
 There were no performances going on while I was 
 there (Passion- week), but the theatre was to be opened 
 on Easter Sunday. A nigger showed us the building, 
 and took us to a lofty point, from whence he intended 
 that we should look, not at the fine view of the city 
 spread out at our feet, and l)athed in rich liglit, but at 
 the mysterious ropes and pulleys which regulated and 
 
Tin; I'ASEo 
 
 141) 
 
 produced tlic iiiiraculous stfinc-cfTcfts of riijiidfippcMrnnci' 
 and disapuc'iraiice witli which (»ur eyes arc so especially 
 dcli^ht((l ill )>atitoiiiiine. 'i'lierc were all kinds (tf dusty 
 and tawdiy staLjt'-Hiiery and ])ropcrlics heape(l pro- 
 niiscuonsly foi^ethcr, anionLf which a very dusty and 
 mild hroun hear was ]»roniiiiejit. ()ur L;uide wmle nn 
 the wall the nnnd)er of people the theatre would liold, 
 and furnished us with other statistics, which our har- 
 harous ignorance alune prevented our properly aj)pre- 
 ciating. 
 
 'After this inspection of the theatre, and a deliLrhtful 
 view of the city from an elevated window, we hailed a 
 volante, and merely saviuLT " Pnseo " to our ni'^'-'cr horse- 
 ni.'in, threw ourselves buck and assumed a pleasing and 
 indifferent expression, us if we had been natives of the 
 city, and u drive in a volante was our custom alwayr, of 
 an afternoon. The weather seemed rather inclined to 
 he showerv, so the "dear little creatures" did n(jt show 
 themselves in such numbers as we hud hoped, and as 
 we were fully prepared to admire. We, however, saw a 
 good many. Low dresses, l)are arms, and mantillas, 
 certainly look odd at first : and what is still more remark- 
 able, the low dresses, l)are arms, and mantillas do n(»t 
 endeavour, or very rarely so, to heighten their charms 
 by contrast with the sombre black coats of the worse 
 portion of the community. The ladies were almost 
 invariably alone; the gentlemen gazed on them with 
 respectful admiration from beneath the palm-trees. 
 "The Paseo," or regular evening drive, is of mme extent. 
 After traversing the main avenue, the volantes skirt the 
 
 I 
 
 ! ! 
 
 |ihte: <| 
 
150 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 edge of an inclosnre sacred to IjuU-fights, and follow a 
 road almost at rifjlit ani'les to the miiin ••no, leadin<; 
 througli trees and gardens adorned with the magnificent 
 vegetation of the tropics. From several points very 
 pretty peeps of the city, and surrounding country are 
 obtainable, and a view to please horrormongers of the 
 Bmall castle where Lopez and his fellow-countrymen 
 were irarrotted, is caufdit from one of the avenues near 
 the town. Statues adorn '^the Paseo"' at several points. 
 That of Isabel in the principal road is of bronze, and 
 represents the queen as an insignificant, pug-nosed, little 
 dwarf, wlio looks in that vast space mor ? like the statue 
 of an infant that had lost its way, than that of tlie ruler 
 of Spain and the Cubas. 
 
 * We enjoyed our drive exceedingly : I shall never 
 forget the state of exuberant si3irits I was in from the 
 excitement, and novelty of the position in which I 
 found myself. Here I was, as it were, suddenly dropped 
 in the midst of a strange land, among people speaking 
 a strange language, and of an aspect perfectly different 
 from any I had before encountered : then the richness, 
 singularity, and beauty of the tropical vegetation, the 
 eastern effect of the elegant palm-trees bathed in sun- 
 shine, the associations of the old glories of Columbus 
 and of Spain; these and a thousand other thoughts 
 and images started up, and occupied, and exhilarated my 
 mind. What a contrast do the formal, silly, pigmies 
 of the present day in Cuba, present to their great 
 ancestors I They retain, like the fallen ( rreeks, their 
 pride, prejudices, and religion, but nothing or little else. 
 
 U- :i 
 
SrANISH MAREIAGES 
 
 1:1 
 
 ' Their women ret.'iiii the eyes of their ancestors, 
 and tlieir rich and beautiful black hair; but they 
 are burnt up by a scorching tropical sini, and ij^et 
 flit from eatinj; and laziness in their premature old a^•e. 
 t saw one stout old woman at the catiiedral, enuai^ed at 
 her devotions, whose arm would have made a leg for 
 a man of six feet high. 
 
 * Both sexes marry at a very early age. 
 
 'A young fellow who shared my room with me, and 
 who had acquired a smattering of t_^>e English language 
 by a residence in the States, told me, with e\ident satis- 
 faction at the astonishment his disclosure produced, 
 that liis father had married at fourteen and his mother 
 at twelve, that after two years their union was blessed, 
 and that his mother had died at the age of forty- 
 two, after having presented her husband with twelve 
 children. 
 
 ' There is a great deal of formality in Spanish society, 
 and tlie Spaniards do not appear inclined to amalgamate 
 with foreigners. I was told at the English consul's, by 
 his daughter, that even if you come to the Havana 
 armed with the best letters of introduction to the best 
 Spanish society, the probability is that you will merely 
 be honoured by a visit from the party to whom your 
 letter may be addressed; told impressively that his 
 house, and all that he possesses, is at your service, and 
 then have your existence most flatteringly ignored. I 
 am inclined to think that this picture may be exagge- 
 rated, and am pretty certain that the same state of 
 things does not at all events exist in the country; the 
 
 i 
 
 I 'I 
 
152 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 j ■ ; 
 
 rich planters, like all other groat landed proprietors, are 
 g'onerally I fancy hospitable, kind, and generous, and 
 the arrival of a stranger is considced an agreeable 
 event. After a very pleasant and lively drive, I re- 
 turned to my hotel, drank tea, and dressed in evening 
 costume to pay my respects to his excellency the 
 English consul. I was shown up a flight of stone, 
 uncarpetted steps, and found mine host deep in a 
 rubber, sitting with three other gentlemen in a hall 
 outside his drawing-room, and dressed in a delightfully 
 cool, refreshing white uniform. He received me very 
 kindly, and introduced me to his wife and daughter. 
 His wife was a very pretty woman. Several other ladies, 
 in evening dress, called to pay their morninr/ visits, and 
 a good many Spaniards, who jiaid a formal visit of two 
 or three minutes, and retired after a couple of compli- 
 mentary speeches, and a casual remark on some topic, 
 corresponding, I suppose, to the v:eather in England. 
 Crawford's drawing-room was paved with black and 
 white marble, forming a ter^selated pavement. There 
 was little or no furniture ; and, in ftict, the principal 
 ornaments were some verv rich and beautiful flowers, 
 which being alone, as it were, in their glory, without 
 damask and gold to vie with them, shone pure and con- 
 spicuous. Everything looked cool and airy : furniture 
 in this hot climate would be too oppressive. I was 
 asked if I could play whist, and replying in the affirma- 
 tive, was immediately booked for a series of rubbers. 
 Tea interrupted our game. I sat next to a fine and 
 pretty woman, a sister of Mrs. Crawford's, who had passed 
 
1*1' 
 
 DINNER AT THE ENGLISH CONSUL'S 
 
 153 
 
 several years in Germany : she must have been brouo;ht 
 up, however, in Cuba, as she strongly objected to the 
 European fashion of wearing bonnets. After tea, iced 
 champagne and fruit were handed round. I thought 
 tlie champagne an elegant and good idea. After one 
 more rubber, I managed to escape from thi; whist-table, 
 and have a chat with jNliss Crawford and aer brother ; 
 listening also to the singing of some American ladies. 
 The Spanish country-dance followed the music, and I 
 was a pleased spectator of its gracefulness. At half- 
 past eleven 1 took my leave: and then, as I descended 
 the stairs, thought for the first time that I had to find 
 my way to my hotel the best way I coidd, unless E 
 bothered Crawford to procure a volante for me. I had 
 a general notion of the geography of the city, and of the 
 bearings of its streets, and I felt pretty certain that, if I 
 could manage to strike +he harbour, I should soon find 
 myself on ground made familiar by my morning's 
 wanderings. 
 
 * I accordingly struck off in a straight line. There 
 was a beautiful, clear moon and a star-spangled sky to 
 guide me, and I felt confident that I should soon 
 manatje to reach home. While walking down a narrow, 
 straight street, I perceived a figure^ wath a long pike in 
 its hand, leaning against a w\all, with a lantern at its 
 feet : it proved to be a watchman, guarding the slum- 
 bering city. 
 
 'Before Tacon's time, Havana was a most unsafe city, 
 and the scene of many robl)eries and midnight assaults. 
 Under his firm and able rule, a proper guard was organ- 
 
 \ ' \ 
 
 (■ 1 
 
 ; 
 
 ( . 
 
 ' ii 
 
 I I 
 
 .1: 
 
 I' I 
 
 » - t 
 

 154 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ised for the protection of the city, and it is now con- 
 sidered as safe as any hirge city in America. I was 
 rejoiced l)y the sight of the calm water of the harbour. 
 After a few minutes' walk, got upon some well-known 
 ground, and soon found my way home. My bedroom 
 was at the top of the hotel, and I was told in the morn- 
 ing that the house was too crowded to admit of my 
 enjopng an apartment to myself, so that it was with 
 mingled feelings of doubt and curiosity that I entered 
 my apartment. Two large beds, with mos([uito-curtains 
 well drawn down, and concealing all that iiiiglit be in 
 or on tliem, greeted my eye on my entrance. Perhaps 
 they were both occupied. I made a cursory inspecticju 
 <jf the apartment, and perceived a pair of foreign 
 boots and some chjthes in the vicinity of one of the 
 mysterious couches, and nothing of the same character 
 near the other. I lifted the curtain, and, to my great 
 delight, found the bed unoccupied. Undressed speedily, 
 and popped into it, wondering what sort of a fellow the 
 owner of the l)Oots might be, and carefully placing my 
 waistcoat, with my little property in it, under my pil- 
 low. Slept pretty well. Quite a luxury to be ashore 
 
 agam. 
 
 ^March'Ilst. — The Spaniard with whom I was doubled 
 up, in answer to several intpdries I made respecting the 
 sugar trade and sugar plantations, told me that, at the 
 opposite side of tlie harbour, I should see a great sugar 
 store, and possibly get some information as to the pro- 
 bability of seeing a phmtation in the neighbourhood of 
 Havana. Accordingly, armed with a Spanish direction 
 
AN EXTORTIONATE BOATMAN 
 
 1j5 
 
 worded thus, "A Regla Establecimieiitos y Aliuacen y 
 de Azucar," I walked to tlie ]iar})()ur, passing ou my way 
 the square opposite the Captaiii-Geiierars, wliere several 
 companies of a regiment were undergoing an inspect ion, 
 and, hailing a little boat with a white awning, threw 
 myself in it, pronounced the words " a Kegla"' with the 
 nearest approach to the air of a native I could assume, 
 and sank into the back seat. The harbour at this early 
 hour looked bright and beautiful ; the air on the 
 water was soothing and delightful. I gazed round me 
 on the charming landscape and clear sky with a feel- 
 ing of enjoyment I hope worthy of the most pleasant 
 and agreeable portion of a spring day in the tropics. 
 My boatman, when we got " a Ivegia," wanted to clieat 
 me, seeing that I was a stranger and an Engl isln nan, 
 and probably thinking that several ejaculations of his 
 in praise of tlte "Inglesi" while crossing the liarbour 
 would have softened my heart, and opened the palm (»f 
 generosity. Nothing, hcnvever, have I greater dislike 
 to than being cheated ; and, therefore, after aj)i)ealing to 
 one or two bystanders, and endeavouring, in inferior 
 French, to explain the state of the case, and gathering, 
 from their gestures and manner, that I was in the right, 
 I gave my friend half what he asked, and walked off. 
 
 ' I was destined to be disappointed with the " Esta- 
 blecimieuto de Azucar."' I found nothing Itut some 
 spacious stores, in which were piled up innumerable 
 casks of sugar and molasses, and several vessels lying 
 off the wharves lading. Stalwart niggers, almost nude, 
 were working hard at moving casks, and a few formal- 
 
 
156 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 I'lokiiin' Spanish superintendents were j:^'azin;L>- on their 
 efforts witli a stupefied air. To one of these I appealed, 
 and endeavoured, in French, to make him comprehend 
 that I particularly wished to see a sugar estate, and that 
 I could only spare a few hours to see one in. He said 
 somethin;^' about meeting me at Regla during the after- 
 noon, or appointing some one else to do so, I do not 
 now quite recollect which. I can only remember that 
 his answers were unsatisfactory, and that I abandoned 
 the scheme. I wandered on the shores of the harbour, 
 and endeavoured to reach the citadel of La Cabanos, 
 but found a marsh intervening, the distance farther than 
 I had anticipated, and the sun gradually moimting 
 liigher in the heavens, and increasing in ferocity. I 
 looked out in vain for l)oats, and w\andered on, begin- 
 ning to feel very hot and rather tired, when I crossed 
 a railway line, and immediately began following it to- 
 wards the shore, guided by the advice of an old cottager, 
 who miiucidousJi/ understood a word or two of English, 
 and who, pointing to the line, emphatically told me to 
 "P'ollow him." I found the cars, drawn by jive or six 
 Qnideii, had just arrived, and, following the passengers, 
 was soon on board a steam-ferrv, which took me over 
 the harbour in a few minutes, and for a small sum. It 
 landea its passengers in a part of the city I was not 
 altogether acquainted with, and my morning's walk was 
 lengthened by my again losing my way, and wandering 
 through a labyrinth of narrow streets ; I was quite 
 ready for my light claret, breakfast, and cigar, after all 
 this hot work. ]My wanderings had led me through the 
 
LAST ETENING IN CUBA 
 
 i:.: 
 
 " Almedta de Paula," a fine broad walk, planted with 
 trees, and close to the harbour. 
 
 'The Habaneras very sensibly make the streets of the 
 body of their town, where business is performed, nar- 
 row, in order to be eool and shadv, and their evcniiiLj 
 drives, which are not used till the sun's rays are beconi- 
 iug- horizontal, broad and spacious. I made my j)ur- 
 chases of eij^ars, fans, and preserves, to-day, and eallfd 
 on the consul to recpiest him to advance me some 
 money, as my Charleston misfortune had reduced my 
 finances so considerably that I had no money to get 
 back ^v^th, or scarcely any after paying my fare l)y the 
 steamer. He told me he should be most happy to ad- 
 vance whatever I wanted, and to call at his office again 
 at two o'clock ; he was engaged in some law business 
 with regard to a brig seized as a slaver, whose owners 
 positively asserted she was merely meant for the sugar 
 trade. Crawford was not at his office at two when I 
 called; and in the evening, when I took ^Nlarey to in- 
 troduce to him, I learned that the whole family had gone 
 into the country. I should have been in a fix if .'\lar(?y 
 had not kindly accepted my draft on Cox and Co. for 
 £20, and paid me that sum. 
 
 *My last evening in Cuba was delightful. The moon 
 shone brightly on the city, and the music of the IkuuI 
 had a soothing and almost melancholy effect. I felt 
 sorry to be obliged to hurry from the i)lace; it liad a 
 kind of fascination about it., and, as Willis sav'^, pos- 
 sessed the rare merit of "just enough amusement aii'l ex- 
 citement to prevent citaai, without producing fatigue."' 
 
 ;, i 
 
 I 
 
Tim, 
 
 ;' , 
 
 158 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 It is ipiitc ii contrast in tliis respect to London, Paris, or 
 iiijy of those ^-reat j^ay places during the bustle and ex- 
 citement of tlieir seasons. 
 
 ' Miii'cJi 22iul.. — Our steamer got under weigh at 
 half-past six. I had Ijccn up at five, and had managed 
 to <^ct my last cup of coffee at "The Imperial," where 
 they ceitainly make it worthy of an empei'or, and to 
 l)uy some cigarettes. The Spaniard, wlio had been 
 doubled up with nie on shore, was my companion on 
 th(^ voyage. He was very ill, and almost did for me 
 the next mornino- : the motion of the vessel, bad as it 
 is, is nothing to the spectacle of the misery of others 
 on board. T, however, escaped illness on ])oth my 
 vovasres. We had a very violent thunder-storm on 
 the first night after leaving the Havana, and got to 
 Charleston, after a quick run, on Friday morning. The 
 vovau'e was without incident. We were out of sight, of 
 land, and in the centre of the Gulf Stream all the time. 
 W(^ saw several flving-fish scudding alon<>- and risini; 
 very prettily from the water, but did not encoimter the 
 sea-serpent, or any other redoubtable *' monster of the 
 deep." I made the acquaintance on my passage of two 
 Oxford men, who seemed very good fellows. They had 
 l)een through jNIexico and the greater part of the 
 Western States; they gave glowing descriptions of 
 jNIexican scenery, but drew a melancholy picture of 
 the degraded, miserable state of the ]Mexicans them- 
 selves. Every kind of vice, scarcely credible, prevail 
 among them. I got my cigars and preserves passed 
 through the Customs House after paying a heavy 
 
RETURN TO MONTREAL 
 
 159 
 
 Paris, or 
 and cx- 
 
 veigh at 
 iiianag't'd 
 ,""' where 
 ', and to 
 ad been 
 mion on 
 I for nio 
 )ad as it 
 )f others 
 l)oth my 
 ;torm on 
 (1 got to 
 The 
 
 sight of 
 the time, 
 id risin^jf 
 iinter the 
 er of the 
 TO of two 
 They had 
 t of the 
 Dtions oi 
 icture of 
 us theni- 
 prevail 
 passed 
 
 a heavy 
 
 1^- 
 
 duty of forty per cent. As it was Good Friday I went 
 to cliureh. 
 
 ' S;iw Thaekeray and ('n»\vo again, and ealh'd on 
 tlie fornior and gave liini a descrij)tion <tf my trip to 
 Cui)a. 
 
 ' Mitrcli 2Hfh. — Up early on deck to see the entrance 
 to the harbour of New "i'ork. Morning fine, ('(»l(b (dear, 
 and frosty — rpiite a contrast to the weather I liad a 
 few (h\ys before been enjoying. Tlio entrance to tJio 
 liar})our of New York is not oidy beautiful, but strong: 
 two forts opposite one anotlier, Ijuilt according t(» the 
 latest principles of art, stand like grim sentinrls gtmrd- 
 ing it ; a sort of modernised imitation of tlie castles on 
 each side of the entrance to the harbour of Havana. T 
 went to the Clarendon at New York, a <jind hotel, and 
 a great contrast to the noisy, vast, Metro{)olitan. I 
 stayed two or three days at New York, and returnc'd to 
 ^lontreal rid Hudson liiver Railway, sleeping again at 
 Rouse's Point, and recrossing the St. Lawrence in a 
 half frozen and rather dangerous state on the 2nd of 
 April, after au absence of about seven weeks from 
 Montreab 
 
 ' I found everything at ^Montreal on my return look- 
 ing miserable. The streets almost impassable from lialf 
 melted snow ; the air raw^, damp, and chilly; every (tne 
 laid up with influenza and bad spiiits. 
 
 ' The bustle and excitement of my journey had dissi- 
 pated the uloom I laboured under on startini>- almost 
 entirelv ; but after bein'>- back several davs, 1 foimd the 
 
 I 
 
 i ) 
 
I > ., 
 
 1(30 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 blue devils gradually beginning to exert their influence. 
 I had a touch of ague and a sore throat, and found 
 myself affected by the trying changes of weather, 
 like every one else, till the horrible snow disappeared, 
 and the sun and nature began to exert their revivifying 
 influence. 
 

 lil 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Ql'EBEC — GxiVAZZI RIOTS — KUMOrKS OF WAR. 
 
 'Juue llth, l^on. 
 
 ' /QUEBEC, ^Montreal, and, in fact, the whole country 
 Mt* have been enlivened in a manner whiL-h wo neither 
 anticipated nor are able to appreciate. leather Cfavazzi 
 has appeared like a firebrand among us, and, in fact, 
 set the whole population by the ears. Protestants 
 a<;-ainst Roman Catholics, and both ag'ainst the soldiery. 
 There has been a riot at Quebec, happily unaccom- 
 panied by loss of life. In ^lontreal, however, the 
 military have fired upon the people, and killed, and 
 wounded twenty-six of them. Here an attempt was 
 made by an armed mob of wild Irishmen to murder 
 Gavazzi while delivering his lecture. Gavazzi behaved 
 in the most gallant manner ; did not throw away a 
 single blow, but felled his assailants as they successively 
 endeavoured to clamber into the pulpit, in a mnnner 
 which would have excited the admiration of the vene- 
 rable Ben Caunt. He contemplated the tumultuous 
 assembl}'^ with a smile of contempt, and declared, if al- 
 lowed a fair field and a wall to lean against, he would 
 
 M 
 
 
 ! .r 
 
 I i 
 
 i. \ 
 
10-2 
 
 CANADA AND THE miMrA 
 
 tiLjIlt tlif wlmlr |(it (it'thfiii. They succ'ocdt'd, lifter M tiiiio. 
 ill liiirliiiLT liiiii tVdiii the pulpit, aiid he piu'iicd, Cor- 
 tiiiiiitt'Iy for himself, on soiiu; cushiuns wiiich hinl Imcu 
 removed from a ptw, or his skull would iiifdlihly 
 liave l)eeu fractured. 
 
 ' When pursued hy the molt into a vaidt lieneath tlir 
 eliurcli, ho merely eoolly stepped one ]>ace to his ri^iit. 
 and the moh rushinij past him, groped with murderous 
 hands in vain in the (hukness. The French ('ana<lians 
 liave taken no part in these oiitrai^cs ; indeed, at ^lon- 
 treal, they expressed their deep horror at the eondnct 
 of these Irish fanatics. 
 
 ' Tlie 2()th Regiment who have been at ^Montreal, and 
 excited such violent feeling's l)y firing on a p<'aceful 
 congregation retiilng from church, have only just 
 arrived in the country. How or by whom the order 
 to fire could have been given remains a mystery. Some 
 of the most peaceful and innoc(>nt inhabitants have 
 fallen victims to it. (lavazzi, indeed, has appeared like 
 a sj)irit of evil in this country. By attacking the tenets 
 of the Koman Catholic faith in an insulting, scornful, 
 and (inchi'istliLn manner, he has excited to the utmost 
 the religious animositv and hatred of the Irish, and the 
 great mass of the inhabitants of the Lower ])rovinces: 
 and has revived that bitter feeling of religious enmitv, 
 which it has l)een the policy of Government t(j soften 
 and repress, and which will be a source of weakness 
 and disunion fnjm which, I fear, the colony will not 
 very soon recover. Tlie whole business is a painful 
 one, and in everv wav to be regretted.' 
 
liUMOUnS OF WAIl 
 
 Ifj.T 
 
 I tlllU', 
 il, foj- 
 il been 
 
 ["allibly 
 
 itli the 
 
 rdcrous 
 uadiaiis 
 it Moii- 
 coiuUu't 
 
 eal, and 
 p<,'aceful 
 Illy just 
 le order 
 Some 
 s have 
 u'ed like 
 le tenets 
 scornful, 
 utmost 
 and till.' 
 ovincc'S : 
 enmity, 
 o soften 
 ,veaknes> 
 will not 
 painful 
 
 [Notliin;;' of i^eiieral iuferest is nn'iitionetl either in 
 my l)rotherV Icftris or j<»urnal until February ls.'>4, 
 wlien news of an impending,' war with l\ii-;sia reached 
 Cana(hi. -KniToi!.] 
 
 ' Kepoits liave readied us lu-re of wars and ruinoiii.-; 
 of wars, and I suppose Knuiaml will shortly be en^jan'cd 
 in the terrible thoiij^h i,dorioiis struLri,de, into wideh, after 
 h(j much ministeiial vacillation, she has at length entered. 
 I should like to he ordered out to the scinie of action: 
 l)ut as T have not been so loiio- on foreiun service as 
 many others in Canada, I shall probably l»e kej)t out 
 here another year, when Nicholas will have drawn in 
 his horns, and the struj^<j;le have come to an end. 
 
 'Itmavbe ima-'incd how eai;eilv we look for news 
 of the march of events in this ice-bound corner of the 
 earth, where news recpiires a furtnii^ht to penetrate. 
 Just at this crisis, all measures of ndlitary reform and 
 reori>anization are important. The ''(vHiarterly Heview," 
 about a year a«;o, discussed the injustice and folly of the 
 present system of promotion in the Ordnance Corps, 
 and pointed out its evils and discouraj^'ements. In many 
 regiments of the service I nught have ])een a captain, 
 or next door to it; in the Engineers, I cannot iioi)e to 
 be one in less than ten or twelve years indeed, if the 
 present system continue; and I shall be fortunate if I 
 am even then. My colonel at (»>uebec was t\vent3'-three 
 
 rears a s 
 
 ul)alt 
 
 ern 
 
 ' I am leading a fpiiet life for a soldier. I generally 
 rise at seven, and read or write for a couple of hours 
 
 M 
 
 !, II 
 
 I I 
 
 1 I 
 
 i •' 
 
1C4 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 [I ' 
 
 l)efore breakfast. (At present that period is devoted to 
 an essay on fortification.) In the winter, when tliere is 
 little professional work to be done, two hours generally 
 suffice for the office. Two liour'^' ^nore in the afternoon 
 I devote to reading history, and the rest of tlie day is 
 given up to exercise and anuisement. Balls nnd parties 
 interfere a great deal with my arrangements. Late 
 hours do not suit me at all : I feel want of sleep much 
 more than fatigue. However, Lent and its forty days 
 «jf rest are approaching, and the restless aiitoniaton 
 motions will cease for a while. 
 
 ''April 2&h. — To-day is appointed to be kept as a 
 fast-day throughout Great ]^ritain. I have ju.«t been 
 to the cathedral, and listened to a powerful and eloquent 
 sermon, preached by Dr. Adamson, in aid of the wives 
 and children of the soldiers who have been sent to tlie 
 vv-ar, to fio-ht the battles of their countrv, and of civili- 
 sation. Dr. Adamson connnenced his discourse by a 
 retrospective glance at the triumphs and progress of 
 religion, education, and enlightenment, since the ter- 
 mination of the last great war. 
 
 ' He described the rapture and gratitude of the nations 
 of Europe when the sword, which had spread desolation 
 over tlie fairest countries of the earth for a quarter of 
 a century, was at length returned to its scabbard. 
 Man tJien became socially, morally, and politically, 
 another being, and step l)y step peace achieved gentle 
 and unostentatious but glorious triumphs. A rude 
 hand, however, has shattered the beautiful fabric of 
 victory she had reared. Peace is no raore! The sw(jrd 
 
 
•ntle 
 rude 
 ic of 
 
 DR. A DAMSON S SERMON 
 
 165 
 
 again Hashes fc^rtli ; again tlie notes of wniling arc 
 heard. Knghmd, united to a sister whose liand had 
 long been withhehl from her, has drawn the swurd to 
 protect the oppressed, and to cluistise tlie oppressor. 
 After dwelling fur some time on the efforts being niado 
 in this struggle by civilised Europe, the preacher intro- 
 duced the important subject of his discourse. lb 
 reminded his hearers that i^reat sacrifices were neee-- 
 sary to accomplish great objects. 
 
 ''•'The statesman devoted his time, his talents, his 
 health, his days, his nights, to the service (d' his coun- 
 try. Who can justly appreciate his labours, his anxieties, 
 his noble abneiration of self, the ma<nutude of his sacri- 
 fices and his services ? 
 
 * " But the women of England, — the wives, thf 
 mothers, tiie sisters of soldiers, — what did iJu'n con- 
 tribute to the war ? One gave the father of her 
 children ; another her dear son, the pride of her old 
 age; a third a brother; a fourth, perhaps, one who 
 stood in a dearer relation still, whose loss would crush 
 her young heart, make life a bhmk to her, and leave 
 her the sorrow, too deep for utterance, of unweddcd 
 widowhood. 
 
 * " And shall we offer them nothing in return ? Shall 
 we refuse our svmpathv and assistance in their desola- 
 tion and distress?" ' 
 
 [Another considerable break occurs here in the 
 journ.al, and nothing vorthy of notice is recorded 
 until the summer, when cholera of extreme severity 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 ! 
 
 I 
 
 . t 
 
 1 ; 
 
 ^ i: 
 
166 
 
 CANADA AND THE CEDIEA 
 
 visited Quebec. ]My brotlier exerted liiiiiself to miti- 
 gate, as far as lay in his power, tlic sufffriiig of the 
 unfortunate poor. in the Lower Town : and it is pleasant 
 to reflect, tliat his last acts in Canada were tliose of 
 unostentatious charity. — Editor.] 
 
 ' Quebec, .Tilly I'Oih, 18o4. 
 
 ' Ninety-four degrees in the sliade. We are in the heart 
 of our terrific summer. We have had the tliermometer up 
 to OG" in the shade, and no rain for about a fortniijht. 
 Tlie cholera is prevalent in tlie dirty, Inidly ventilated 
 streets of the Lower Town, where many sailors, emi- 
 grants, c^c, have fallen victims to it. 
 
 *The L'pper Town where I live has as yet in a great 
 measure been spared ; but every one feels the necessity 
 of great prudence and caution. 
 
 * As a means of enlightening the igiiorant popidation, 
 who were ri.arked out from their habits uf life, and the 
 locality in which they resided, as the most probable 
 victims of the disease, I have liad a lOOO copies of 
 the Government regulations for the prevention cf 
 cholera, issued in England in 1847, printed and circu- 
 lated, distinguishing the more important paragraphs by 
 the employment of larger type. I have also strongly 
 advocated, in several letters to the (Quebec papers, the 
 necessity of the formation of a society for the relief and 
 assistance of distressed emigrants at Quebec. My obser- 
 vations have been favourably received and commented 
 upon, and I have it now in contemplation to a])peal to 
 the clergy of Quebec, to afford their countenance and 
 
CHOLERA AT QUEBEC 
 
 ig: 
 
 support to my design, and to solicit the assistance of 
 the Coh)nial Government. 
 
 ' A central board of health has been established at 
 Quebec, of which several of my friends here wish me to 
 be elected a member. The nomination wovdd be an 
 honour, but involve at the saine time great respon- 
 sibility and some risk and trouble. The latter however, 
 I woidd, I hope, willingly encounter if I could do any 
 iTOod. The streets are as deserted during this intense 
 heat as on the wettest day. 
 
 'If you can possibly do it, and have any regard fjr 
 your own health, you will keep at home till half-past 
 six in the evening, and then only take a ([uiet drive. 
 One of our thermometers, placed in flui sun the other 
 day indicated, I am told, a temperature of 130°.' 
 
 li 
 
 
 I ?'i 
 
 I ! 
 
If.S 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 BOUND FOR THE CRIMEA ARRIVAL AT .^EBASTOrOL. 
 
 ' August I800. 
 
 'rpiTE scene cluuiges ngaiii. The uncertainty of u 
 J- soldier's life could not be better illustrated tliau 
 by my last entry. However I have myself to thank 
 for it. ffearinsj that the number of En<>-ineers 1)efore 
 Sebastopol was nuieh reduced, I felt impelled to 
 volunteer mv services for the Crimea, and to suui»(.'st 
 that an officer, who might have been invalided, shouM 
 be sent to Fort (jreorge to supply my place. 
 
 ' I hardly expected so sudden an answer as I re- 
 ceived. A few days after my letter to Colonel Matson, 
 and while at Inverness, on my way to Dingwall in 
 Ross-shiri', whither I was ordered on some special duty. 
 I suddenly had a letter put into my hands from the 
 Ordnance Office, informing me that the Inspector- 
 General had approved of my being employed in the 
 Crimea, and that I was to proceed at once to London, 
 to embark as soon as my passage should have been 
 provided for me. I felt mixed sensations of satisfac- 
 tion and regret. I felt sorry, after getting perfectly 
 
 I 
 
DEPAIITUUE FROM ENGLAND 
 
 169 
 
 settled, niifl having found several pleasant acquaintances, 
 to be suddenly ordered off at a moment's notice, — and 
 glad at the opportunity of witnessing some of the great 
 and stirring scenes which were so completely absorliing 
 the attention of Europe. I endeavoured to assume 
 cheerfulness, though my heart was rather anxious and 
 heavv, not knowing what the terrors of a l)attle-tield 
 or actual hostilities might he. I rather mistrusted my 
 own powers, and could only pray (rod that I migl:t 
 have strength and courage to perform Uiv duty. I liad 
 little tinu; allowed for preparation. I was obliged to 
 procure the various articles of my kit with railway 
 speed, and was kept continually ti'ivelling between 
 Hertfordshire, anil London. ]My horse aiid servant 
 were shipped off from Southampton in the " Hima- 
 lava.*' I started, after takinff leave of mv relatives at 
 Brighton and Dover, with Captain Nicholson, R.E., 
 overland for the Crimea, via Paris and ^Marseilles. 
 Nicholson's brother travelled with us, and w(^ had a 
 very pleasant journey to Paris, and enji^yed ourselves 
 a ii'reat deal the dav after oiu' arrival, in lionising 
 and visitinfj the Parisian Industrial Exhibition. 
 
 'On Sunday, August 3rd, we left Paris: travelled 
 all dav and all ni^'ht, and arrived at ^Marseilles on a hot 
 Monday morning, at 8 or 9 a.m. We got our tickets 
 for the steamer, and our lu'><>a!i-e arraiiLred, break- 
 fasted, strolled about, and made purchases to complete 
 our kit. Marseilles is a large, rich, dirty, connnercial 
 place ; its streets smell abominably. We had no time, 
 or were too tired, to make a minute inspection of 
 
 ji-M 
 
 I : 
 

 170 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 II 
 
 it. At r.M. we started in the French mail steamer 
 " Simois " for Constantinople. Tlie passengers were nut 
 nnmerons ; but we liad 400 or .lOO French soldiers on 
 deck, l)el(>n_i>ing- principally to a regiment of Chasscm-s 
 de Vincennes. As far Jis ]Messina, in Sicily, we had 
 lovely weather, — a clear blue sky, and an intense 
 ultramarine sea, — rather lujt, but on the whole enjoy- 
 able. 
 
 'The Chasseurs de Vincennes slept like sheep on 
 deck; but sang, and made themselves merry with their 
 hardships. Some of them are very fine, handsome 
 fellows, with the soft blue eyes and dark eyelashes 
 so popular among' sentimental young ladies ; and ] 
 am <[inte sure, as their manners are really good, that, 
 if well washed and dressed, they would cut respect- 
 able figures in an English ball-room. 
 
 ' At ]\lessina w^e landed to look at some chiu'ch'-'s. 
 It is a very finely situated city, but its inhabitants 
 appear a dirty, degraded race. Tlie place itself was 
 the most filthy I had ever seen, and the stench in 
 some of the streets insufferable. We took a short 
 drive, which had the effect of partially broiling us, 
 and were not sorrv to be again on board, and under 
 weigh. 
 
 *We touched at the Pirams, drove over a hot, dusty 
 road to Athens, climbed up the Acropolis, did the ruins 
 
 in twenty minutes or so, and returned to our steamer 
 as fast as om' wretched little steed would draw us. 
 The remainder of our voyage was without incident. 
 The weather was hot, the cabins badly ventilated, 
 
 k I 
 
CONSTANTIXOPLE 
 
 171 
 
 steainor 
 ^'ere in»t 
 ditn-s oil 
 bassciirs 
 we liad 
 iiitriise 
 3 C'lijoy- 
 
 lierp on 
 itli tli.ir 
 iiulsoine 
 'Veluslies 
 ; and I 
 od, til at, 
 respect - 
 
 'hurches. 
 labitants 
 self was 
 eneli in 
 a sliort 
 lin<^' us, 
 d under 
 
 ot, dustv 
 he ruins 
 steamer 
 draw u>. 
 incident, 
 ■ntilated, 
 
 ;ind the Chasseurs d<' Vincennes anvtliine- hut mUlr- 
 jJcurs. 
 
 ' Wf reaclied ConstantinopU' on 31<>nday aftcrnnun, 
 landed part of our han'ii^ai^e, and witlk diflHculty clinihrd 
 the steep liill to Messiris's J[oteh Constantinople from 
 the water (Hd not disappoint nie. "NVIien exaniiiied I 
 found it the dirtiest phice I was ever in, and that 
 most of tlie oreat lions were exaijfi^erations, and looked 
 hotter on paper ihan in reality. — AllonTs di-awin^s 
 are very faithful. We found at .Alessiris's, Colonel 
 (iordon, K.K., who had distinL;uished himself so much, 
 and been wounded before JSebastopol, on his way 
 home for the benelit of his health. He seemed to 
 think we siiould have to winter in the Crimea. 
 
 'The delu<;e which poured on C(.)nstantinople on tlie 
 (lay after our arrival, [ thiidv I shall never forget. 
 We landed our heavy bao-gage in the midst of it. 
 The streets resembled Seoteh mountain water-courses; 
 and how our porters, with their heavy loads, c(»ntrived 
 to struggle up the almost perpendicuhir hill through 
 the midst of it, I know not. The thing, liowever, was 
 at'Cumplished. The rain lasted all day, and we c(juld 
 do httle or nothing. 
 
 'Next morning Nicholson and ^v,t, df went over in 
 a caique (with Mure of the 42nd, aide-de-camp to 
 (reneral ^Earkham) to Scutari, to report ourselves t(j 
 Lord William Paulett (commanding there), and got 
 passages on to the Crimea. We were told we were all 
 to proceed next day at 2 p.m., in the " I^randon " screw 
 transport (13D). We passed the afternoon iu seeing 
 
172 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 the iiHis(|ii('S of 8t. S()j)lii;i jiiid Aclmu't, ami otlitT 
 lioiis. With the former I was j^reatly struck, Init a 
 little disappointed (iinaginatioii is so invariably stronger 
 tlian reality). On the morning of our departure I 
 ma(h' several pm'chases of saddle-l)ags, Turkish mat- 
 ting, ^.e., in the streets and great 1)azaar, ])ee])e(l in a 
 Turkish l)ath, and peramljuhited the streets on ii 
 little horse for several hours. Scratehley, and myself, 
 were almost late for our steamer. We found she was 
 a very slow craft, and had to coal on the coast, whicli 
 might detain her for several days. As we had l»eeii 
 puri»osely sent overland to reach our destination a> 
 soon as ))ossil)]e, the delay wa^ annovini!" and vexation.-. 
 We had been put to great troubh.- and expense, shifted 
 our baggage seven or eight times, and after all, fnuiul 
 that we should have readied our destination bv comiD;: 
 direct, in nearly or ([uite as short a tinie. 
 
 'We remained two days at Kosloo, or thereabout, on 
 the coast of Turkey in Asia, to coal. A 3Ir. l^arclay, 
 CE. has charge of the mines. The coast and sur- 
 rounding hills are extremely rich in coal, wdiich bursts 
 forth, or crops out on the cliffs in patches. The coal 
 is very inferior in quality to that of Newcastle, and docs 
 not go half so far. The ?oaling of steamers is performed 
 by means of boats, the coast being an iron-bound one, and 
 water very deep near in shore. The prevalence of strong 
 northerly winds likewise compels vessels to anchor at a 
 greater distance from the shore than they would other- 
 wise do. The mines are worked by about 1 700 Croatian 
 Turks, Albanians, SiC, some of them arjued to the teeth 
 
 I I 
 
 Ii: = 
 
KOSLOO 
 
 in 
 
 111 other 
 k, but u 
 : strongi'i' 
 jiirtiire 1 
 :ish iiiat- 
 L']K'il iu ;i 
 'ts on ;i 
 1(1 inyself, 
 1 slie was 
 fist, wliicli 
 liad lieeii 
 illation a- 
 v^'xatit•u^. 
 se, si lifted 
 all, ftniiiil 
 bv coniiu'j; 
 
 cabout, on 
 |r. l^arclay, 
 
 and sur- 
 icli bursts 
 
 Tlu' onal 
 
 ami d(tfs 
 performed 
 lid one, and 
 |e of stroni;' 
 nclior at a 
 
 uld otber- 
 1)0 Croatian 
 
 ) tlie teetli 
 
 with pistols and daj/gcrs, a picturosqup, troubh'soino set 
 td li-ovcrn. Mr. I^arclav has l)C'cn four or five V( ars 
 almost constantly rosident on the spot, has ac(|uir('d tli»^ 
 Turkish language respectably, and being intrepid and 
 energetic in character, and fond of a wild active life, 
 discharges his arduous duties con amorr, rulinu- his 
 inotlev subi<^cts with a rod of iron. The mines are 
 situate about four miles from the coaling points, the 
 coal being brought up on the l)acks of mules. When a 
 heavy surf is running no coaling can take place, and 
 diips are often detained for several days on this aecoiint. 
 Tlie scenery along the coast, and in the vieinitv of 
 Kusloo, is very beautiful and striking, consisting of hill 
 and dale, and towering nKumtains wooded to their very 
 .-unimits ; a most pleasing contrast to the aiid coast 
 iif Sicily and (rreece. We enjoyed a scamper aci'oss 
 wjiat in England would have been considered gi'ouiid 
 impracticable for cavalry, on little Turkish ponies, 
 which galloped like the \vind, and descended preci) tires 
 without ever making a false step. They are sImkI with 
 1 plate liaving a small hole in the centre, and how they 
 preserve their fo(ttin<' as tliev do is a marvel to Knulish- 
 men. We irot under weigh from Kosloo on a beautiful 
 eveuinff, and stood boldlv across the Bkick Sea for our 
 destination. A heavy peculiar rolling moti(»n was im- 
 [larted to the steamer by one of the Black Sea er( ss 
 >well8. 
 
 'A)(rj. \'2fh. — We reached the entrance of the 
 narbour of Balaklava after sunset, too late therefore to 
 •nter, and accordingly cast anchor among a fleet of 
 
i:j 
 
 CANADA ANI» THH CHIMKA 
 
 m 
 
 slii|ts ;m(l stcMiiuTs of ;ill kinds nioorcd mitsidp. Tli^' 
 coast is wild, uiid very lofty and |K'r|K'iuli(;uiar. IcoiiM 
 ciisilv iinai^iue tlir tcrrilic conscfiiu'nors of a ^julc ot 
 Nvind to ;i fleet iincliorcd in it. The huts of the saiiatn- 
 riuin, rec<'iitly estahlished on the hei'^hts, were alnni 
 visihle, with a few tents of the marine eiieaiiij)iiiciir. 
 Next inoniiiij^% ^Nlcdiday, Aui^'iist l.'itli, we lande(l to n- 
 port ourselves and ascertain how the hiud lay. I fouih! 
 two brother otfieers, whom I knew, at i'alaklava, througli 
 whose assistance I obtained a pony, and rode with 
 Cajttain Nicholson to head-(|uarters, to rep(»rt myself ti' 
 (Jeneral .loues. Our conductor throu_L>h the mazes ot 
 the C!un[), was an officer of my own hatch, who had 
 led the storming' party on the iSth .lune. He li;h': 
 escaped by a miracle. He says every one he turned tn 
 speak to seemed to l)e shot before he could return an 
 answer. The whole plain near Halaklava, where tlii' 
 j^Tcat cavalry charge took place, and the hills in it 
 vicinity, are occupied by the English cavalry, hoiv 
 artillery, and field batteries, a most efficient and im- 
 posiuLj force of 5000 or (iOOO men. 
 
 ' The vallev of Halaklavaissurround<'d l)vwild rii<'i'«^ii 
 hills, now in our possession, but last 3'ear occupied in 
 force by the Cossacks. 
 
 ' I'alaklava, oriL>'iiiallv a prettv Tartar village, has beeu 
 metamorphosed into a collection of dirty, dihipidatei! 
 tenements. Every tree, I believe (literally, with tl. 
 exception of one clump) has been cut down. (lardeii-. 
 vineyards, and other more ephemeral adjuncts t" 
 beauty, of course, went at once, and now, the peaceful 
 
BALAKLAVA 
 
 173 
 
 litflc vill:i:^«> is cli:ini;'c(l into n nni<y, Imt. SiTniiiMln.;', 
 ilirty, irrc^uliir place ( iiitcrcsfiiiL;', Imt (iisaj^n'reaUIc ), in 
 tact, a prrffct clians (it'iiicii of (litVcrcnt nations, clotiict! 
 in different L,'!irl»s, and jaliltcrint,' ditVcrrnt lan'4nau'<'s. 
 
 'Tlicre is, iiotwitlistandint;, imtre order ami cleanli- 
 ness than I expected to tind. Almost every rc'^Hnient 
 lias its slore (one of the wooden hnts) here: and the 
 Conunissariat have erected several larL^c iron hniIdin!J'.> 
 
 \v 
 
 itl 
 
 1 circnlar roots. 
 
 Til 
 
 littl 
 
 liari 
 
 »onr IS ii 
 
 terall' 
 
 crammed with s}n"ps lyini,' side hy side with their stern 
 
 toward 
 
 the sh 
 
 lore, and aihniralilv arranufed 
 
 The neiL;h- 
 
 honrlMiod of Halaklava, hefure our landini;-. was excecd- 
 inirly pietures((ne and pretty. On leaving tlie villaLTc 
 and proceedintf towards Sehashopol, \\e encountered )-ieh 
 vineyards empurplinjjf the ij^romid with Muscatel ^^rape-. 
 Sweet, secluded little tannhous( ■^ peepii ^' fhroui,di cool 
 foliage, and nestling aniong>t orcliards and flower.-. 
 The valley, through which our light cavalry eliarucd 
 with such despairing bravery, was tlien covered wit!i 
 
 vinevards and dotted with tree 
 
 X 
 
 ow not a shrr.h i- 
 
 to 1 
 
 )e seen. 
 
 The roots of the vines even 1 
 
 iave been 
 
 grubbed up for fuel, leaving fields covered with small 
 holes to mark wliere they have been. The valley ex- 
 tends through bold rocky hills as far as the Tchernaya. 
 Near Halaklava, and to the left (jf the road towards 
 Sebastopol, tbe valley and hills are dotted with tlie 
 tents of the English cavalry and field batteries, wiHi 
 long lines of liorses, picketed in rows ])elnnd them. 
 
 'About a mile from Balaklava is the village of Ka- 
 dekoi. With the exception, however, of the churclu 
 
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 (716) 872-4503 
 

 
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 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
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 and perhaps one or two Russian houses, the whole con- 
 sists of recent fliniKy-looking nondescript wooden or 
 iron slieds, where the names of several leading Knglish 
 firms are posted up, and in which most of the wants of 
 the officers of the army are supplied at a tolerably fair 
 rate. I was introduced to General Jones, wliom I 
 found sitting: in his hut with a r<)U<>-h sketch of the 
 Eniilish sieu'e works before him. He said we were all 
 very much wanted, and must get our things sent up to 
 the front, and report ourselves ready for duty as soon 
 as possil)le. We continued our ride to the front to see 
 a little of the work, which the continual booming of 
 the guns (which never cease for a minute, day or night), 
 told us was going on. 
 
 ' The country, as you approach the beleagured city, is 
 cut up into dreary and precipitous ravines. The ground 
 l)ecomes rocky or parched, and dusty, and not a bladi' 
 of grass, not a shrub or tree is to be seen, 
 
 '^ Rut all is rocks at random tliro\\ni, 
 Black waves, bare cra<>s, .and banks of stone ; 
 
 As if wore here denied 
 The summer sun, the spring's sweet dew, 
 That clothe with many a varied hue 
 
 Tlie bleakest mountain side." 
 
 Above all this there is a magnificent blue sky and n . 
 glorious sun. The climate of the Crimea, as far as I 
 have seen of it, is delicious in the autumn, and I shtaikl 
 imagine, exceedingly healthy. About Sebastopol the 
 ground is rocky and difficult. Elsewhere, I should 
 fancy very rich and fertile. We saw fresh encanip- 
 
 II i I 
 
FIRST VIEW OF SEBASTOPOL 
 
 177 
 
 liole con- 
 oodeii or 
 or Enulish 
 3 wants of 
 jnibly fiiir 
 , whom I 
 ch of the 
 e were all 
 ;ent up to 
 ity as sooa 
 rout to see 
 oomiug" of 
 J or uightj, 
 
 ired city, is 
 [The gruund 
 lot a blade 
 
 one 
 
 sky and n- 
 as far as I 
 ud I shoukl 
 astopol the 
 ?, I should 
 di eucauip- 
 
 nients in valleys (»r on hills to the left and right of us 
 as we proceeded onwards towards the fruiit. An hour, 
 or less, brought us to the head-quarters of the British 
 Army, and in view of that cidehratt.'d mansion, depicted 
 on every plan, and conspieuously designed in every 
 model of the sie^e, called '" J^tn'd Kaglan's House."' A 
 plain, one-storied little cottage holds the English Com- 
 mander-in-Chief, his staff, and his fortunes. 
 
 'We continued our ride to Cathcart's Hill, whence we 
 looked, for the first time, on the famous city, the cause 
 of so much bloodshed, and misery — the scene of so 
 much heroism, and endurance. It presented a very 
 singular appearance. The Mahikhoff, and ]\famelon, 
 and the Kedan, looked like mere mounds of earth frtjm 
 the point we occupied, distant about 4()()() yards, and 
 it was impossible to do more than form a vague notion 
 of the defences and appearance of the town, and of our 
 own, and the French works. Of their magnitude^ how- 
 ever, we were able to form an idea from the wide circuit 
 of the flashes, extending for several miles on either side 
 of us. We could hear the whistling of the shot and 
 shell, and occasionally a 32-pound shot flew |)ast us, 
 and buried itself in the earth within a few vards of 
 where we were standing. The Allied Armv, from in- 
 formation obtained through spies and deserters, had 
 been expecting an attack and under arms for three 
 uighis previous to our arrival. It w\as rumoured that 
 the Russian army, under Liprandi, had been reinforced 
 by Ijetween 80,000 and 100,000 men. With my tele- 
 scope I could clearly see dense columns of Russian 
 
 N 
 
 V ■ 
 
178 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 i 
 
 i ^ 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 i, '' ;, 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 -■1 
 
 
 ■ ''- 
 
 troops drawn up on the hills on the north side of the 
 har})oiir. 
 
 * It is impossible to convey to a person at a distance, 
 a correct notion of the appearance of our camp. In 
 fact, one is, at first, completely bewildered at its 
 immense extent. From the top of every hill, and 
 through every ravine, you see nothing but long regular 
 rows of white tents with bare spaces around them. The 
 roads are perpetually traversed in various directions by 
 long files of cavalry in undress uniform, taking their 
 horses to water, — by lines of mules laden with wood 
 or stores, — by commissariat, ammunition, and forage 
 waggons, — by soldiers of the various armies, French, 
 Sardinian, and English, — by Croatians, Greeks, Alba- 
 nians, and all descriptions of ruffianly, bronzed, pic- 
 turesque looking fellows, in various showy dresses of 
 faded splendour. The Turks, Sardinians, the English 
 cavalry, and field-batteries, and a division or more of 
 the French army, occupy the valley of the Tchernaya, 
 and cover our position from Balaclava to the right of 
 the siege lines beyond Inkerman. 
 
 ' The engineers' camp is situated close to Cathcart's 
 Hill, and near a road which leads to the Woronzoff's 
 ravine. It consists of several rows of huts, in which 
 repose our men vis-a-vis to several rows of tents 
 dedicated to the officers. Nearly the whole English 
 army wear white covers over their caps and helmets, 
 and are easily distinguishable by this means from the 
 French, who go through the greatest heat without any 
 such precaution. 
 
 ! . I 
 
FIRST NIGHT IN CAMP 
 
 179 
 
 ' I met in the camp a number of men I know very 
 well. I (lined with De ]\Ioleyns, E.E., Capt. Wolsely, 
 90th Kegiment, Major Camp])ell, 49tli, Assistant-En- 
 gineer and Capt. Browne, E.E., director of the right 
 attack. We had soup, some stew, plenty of hitter ale, 
 and brandy and water — in fact a very fair dinner. The 
 booming of the guns of the attack and defence was our 
 music ; while every now and then, a whistling sound, 
 followed almost immediately T)y a heavy plump, told us 
 that we were within range of the enemy's guns. 
 
 * ]My first night in camp was passed, I acknowledge, 
 in a state of great apprehension. The shot kept pitch- 
 ing close to our tents, and around us all night. I had 
 been told of an artilleryman having been killed in his 
 bed by one, a short time before, fifty yards beyond us ; 
 and as I lay awake in the dark, sheltered merely by the 
 frail canvas of my tent, and heard the roar of shot after 
 shot, and the explosion of shells, which seemed to burst 
 only a few yards from us, my sensations were similar, I 
 should imagine, to those of the criminal whose head is 
 placed under the guillotine, and who is waiting for the 
 fatal axe to drop. Notwithstanding, however, I man- 
 aged to compose myself to sleep for a few hours. 
 
 ' The Russians managed to throw shot into our camp 
 (at least, so we conjectured) by burying the breech of 
 one of their guns in the earth, and firing at an angle of 
 45°. I was told that they had discontinued the prac- 
 tice for several months. Our camp is one of the most 
 advanced in the army. The Rifles and 89th Regiment 
 are close to us, and share the delights of our nocturnal 
 
 N 2 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 .- . 1 
 
180 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 11 
 
 ■ -i 
 
 J ■ 
 I' 
 
 I. 
 
 (listui'l)anco.s. Tliis long range practice lias only been 
 going on for a few days. I must say I dislike it more 
 tiian anything else; but I hope, with God's help, to be 
 able to sleep as serenely in danger as in safety. 
 
 ' The next day was passed in arranging my things. 
 I found that most of the officers of my corps under 
 canvas out here, had holes dug out for their tents. 
 This gives more height, and enal)les a man to stand up in 
 his tent without knocking his liejid aii^ainst the canvas. 
 I considered myself fortunate in being able to purchase 
 a hole in the earth, about ten feet in diameter, and two 
 feet six inches deep, for ten shillings. Over this my 
 tent was pitched ; my matting from Constantinople 
 covered the irregularity of the floor, while a barrel tilled 
 with earth supported the pide. I had several shelves 
 put up, inserted partially into the earth ; horse rugs, 
 matting, and India-rubber sheets placed over the bare 
 earthen sides of the tent ; and soon found myself en- 
 sconced in a very habitable little snuggery ; in fine 
 weather almost as good as a, room in a house. Of 
 course many luxuries, or what perhaps in civilised 
 countries would be called necessaries, had to be dis- 
 pensed with : no sheets for my bed, flannel instead of 
 linen shirts, no chairs, and in the feeding line, no 
 butter or milk, and ration bread and beef as a staple 
 article of consumption, varied by the purchase of sheep, 
 &c., all procured from Kadikoi or Balaclava, a distance 
 of five or six miles. 
 
 ' I naturally looked forward rather anxiously to my 
 first night's duty in the trenches ; I was to go as a super- 
 
A BOMBARPMENT 
 
 181 
 
 iiiimerary to lenrn tlie ins and outs, and rjot a irenoral 
 confused idea of our attackiiiL,^ lines, and tlie defences 
 of the enemy, Anderson, K.E., a subaltern, rather junior 
 to myself, was to be my conductor. I was surprised to 
 find the whole of our attack a])pear so clear, especially 
 the approaches on the liedan, carried along the crest of 
 a hill. 
 
 * The Redan itself is but a short distance off, and we 
 seemed to be creeping close up to it. The noise of the 
 cjuns and mortars, and the roaring and whistlinir of the 
 messengers of death, as they winged their way througli 
 the air, was bewildering enough. A bondjardment was 
 i^oing on durinix mv first niu'lit in the trenches, and the 
 casualties were rather numerous. Every projectile ap- 
 peared to have a sound pecidiar to itself, and oars 
 different to the enemy's. Our thirteen-inch shells were 
 really pretty objects at night, ascending majestically, 
 with a rolling motion, accompanied by a singing sound, 
 to their highest point, and descending witli the same 
 grace and precision into the enemy's works. Their fall 
 was followed immediately by a bright flash, caused by 
 the explosion of the shell on striking the earth. Our 
 shells fired from guns, and our round shot, made a most 
 terrific rushing noise. Grape flew past with a rushing 
 whistle ; minie bidlets whizzed by with a gentle sing- 
 ing sound, like a loud musquito buzz ; the fi-agments of 
 shell, with an irregular half whistling, half roaring 
 noise, very disagreeable in character. A shell bursts 
 with a loud crash. Our fuzes are nuich better than 
 the Russians'. The enemy's shells continually burst in 
 
 
182 
 
 CANADA AND THE CimiEA 
 
 
 i 
 
 the air, ])efore striking the ground, tlieir fragments 
 descending vertically and with great force. 
 
 *The nigh^ duty in the trenches is extremely fixtiguing. 
 The walking is execrable. It is necessary, in addition 
 to avoiding stones and other obstacles, to step clear of 
 men asleep, or half r^sleep, lying all along the trenches. 
 The working parties ])reak off their work at a])oiit 
 2 A.M. ; and from 2 to 5 the exhausted Engineer may 
 consecrate to repose, if he can manage to sle(^p in a 
 wretched little hut but a few feet square, crowded with 
 three or four others, with a sand-bag for a l)e(l, and 
 fleas and mice for companions. Notwithstanding all 
 these drawbacks, it must be remembered that this hut 
 was a place of safety, to which ncj missile (except perhaps, 
 by an extraordinary chance, a splinter of a shell) could 
 penetrate. 
 
 * The trenches of the Eno-lish right attack are about 
 five miles in extent, full of zigzags, batteries, and 
 parallels ; they are surrounded by other trenches and 
 batteries which, from the broken and curious character 
 of the ground, it is at first difficult to determine as 
 friendly or hostile. 
 
 ' Directions were given by my companion to the various 
 working parties, superintended by sappers, as to the 
 duties they were to perform during the night. Most 
 of them were working within rifle range of the Redan, 
 and were consequently exposed to great danger, should 
 the enemy open a heavy fire. (On one occasion we lost 
 five or six men in planting three or four gabions as a 
 continuation of the parallel or approach.) When 
 
AN ANTICIPATED ATTACK 
 
 183 
 
 aguients 
 
 itiguing. 
 additioii 
 clear of 
 reiiclie.s. 
 it about 
 eer may 
 M^p in ii 
 ded with 
 )ed, and 
 ding all 
 this hut 
 perhaps, 
 ill) could 
 
 u'e about 
 cies, and 
 ches and 
 character 
 rmine as 
 
 lC various 
 IS to the 
 t. Most 
 e Redan, 
 ;r, should 
 in we lost 
 lions as a 
 When 
 
 ) 
 
 arrived in the vicinity of the Kedan, it was especially 
 necessary to keep as much as possible under cover, as 
 the Redan lowered upon us at a distance of 200 yards. 
 The Quarries are more extensive and important than I 
 supposed when in England. Their possession, with that 
 of the adjoining Mamelon by the French, I consider of 
 immense importance. It is now almost impossible for 
 the Russians to make effective sorties, as they used to 
 do, on our line ; and the possession of the ^Nlamelon 
 by the French protects most effectively our advanced 
 trenches from falling into the hands of the enemy, as 
 they are commanded by it. I remained nearly all night 
 in the Quarries. 
 
 ' A sortie was expected at head-quarters, and a tele- 
 cjram sent down to the General commanding in the 
 trenches to be prepared for it. Tlie guard of the 
 advanced trenches consisted of the Guards and High- 
 land Brigade, so that the Russians would have met with 
 a warm reception had they made the attempt. Large 
 masses of troops had been, during several days, observed 
 marching from Sebastopol into the Redan; and as a 
 very large army is in the neighbourhood, aiid the siege 
 is approaching a critical period, it wi; 1 1> ought not un- 
 likely that a desperate attack might be made to impede 
 its progress. The left face of the Redan had been 
 much smashed and battered by our fire of the two pre- 
 ceding days, and orders were given to preserve a fire of 
 musketry on it the whole night, to prevent the enemy 
 from repairing damages. 
 
 * Suddenly the Russians opened upon us with the 
 
 t; 
 
 1 1 
 
 I ! 
 
 ! 
 I 
 
 r , 
 
 /I; 
 
 i, 
 i 
 
It I 
 
 184 
 
 CANADA AND THE fRIMKA 
 
 j, 
 
 utmost violence; evorv one in cninp lliou^'ht from the 
 cxtrciiit' licavincss luid rapidity of the fire that a sitrtie 
 was ,L;oiii:; on. Croiifiu'd under tlic parapets, our mm 
 remained witli tlioir arms in tlieir iiaiids, [n'epared for 
 any event. Tlie L;rape Avliistlcd past us and over our 
 heads like liail. We eouhl sec tlie shells win^'in^ their 
 destructive course ahove us, wiiilst every now and then 
 one of them would phimp down in our vicinity. 
 
 ' When this '• tire of hell " had a little slackened, my 
 confrere and myself started to visit the workinLi; parties, 
 and prevent their al)an(h>nin;4' their work. We were 
 exposed to a jjfreat deal of dani^er in doinjjj this; hnt it 
 is a uKJst necessary duty, as our fellows, though as brave 
 as lions in the held, certainly have a dread of working 
 imder fire. The Sappers are noble fellows, and in- 
 valuable men in a sie^-e. One private has often a party 
 of 50 or loo line soldiers to direct. The other ni<dit 
 two of them distinguished themselves }»v carrvinjj out 
 the body of a poor fellow killed by a shell, in our ad- 
 vanced approach : his own comrades (probably young 
 soldiers) were afraid to fetch the body. I mentioned 
 tlie sappers' names in my report, and General Simpson 
 directed 3/. to be given to one, and 2l. to the other. 
 The men were much gratified. I have written for books 
 for the men in my company, and those in the hospital, 
 to read, as well as a few for my OAvn perusal. 
 
 * The life in camp abounds in contrasts. When off 
 duty, I take pleasant rides through scenery picturesque 
 and full of interest. The country beyond the valley of 
 Balaclava, towards Baidar, is richly wooded, romantic, 
 
BATTLE OF THE TCIIERNAYA 
 
 185 
 
 our 11 11 '11 
 
 and bcniitifu]. The Worouzoff road is adiniralily iniido, 
 and carried alonuf tlu' side of |)reci])ict'S, and on tiif in.st 
 of Nvoodi'd ravines ;ind hollows. 
 
 *()n tli(! iiiorninLT of Tlmrsdav tiie lOtli, at idtoiit 
 lialf-pnst 3 A.M., the htn^i^-expeeted attack of the l\us- 
 sians on tiie French and Sardinians near tlie Tcheniaya 
 took place. A brotlier officer of mine (tiie Hon. ('a)it. 
 Keano), stationed at Tialaclavn, liad hi.s attentit»n at- 
 tracted, about one or two o'clock in the mornin,L(, l>y the 
 disphi}'^ of a nuinl)er of lights from various parts of tlie 
 English camp. Knowing how many spies we have 
 amongst us, he ri<jhtlv coniecturod that these were siu- 
 nals to the Knssian armv, to intimate that all was 
 right, and that they might advance. Acting promptly 
 on this idea, he wrote a despatch to General Jones, and 
 mounting a horse, rode himself direct to the (piarters 
 of General Scarlett, wdiom he requested to send a 
 mounted orderly, to warn General De la Marmora of tlie 
 probability of an attack. This information was given 
 an hour or so before the order arrived from head-([uar- 
 ters for the troops immediately to get under arms, and 
 advance to the front. The Kussians advanced on the 
 Tchernaya, and the heights held by the French and 
 Sardinians, with the utmost resolution. They were 
 supported by the fire of several l)Jitteries on the heights, 
 and they brought forward a powerful field-battery on to 
 a plateau, to cover their attack. Their main effort was 
 directed against a French ii^te du pout, guarded by only 
 sixty men. These they drove from their works, and 
 cro'-siug the river (a mere brook) witli little rude port- 
 
186 
 
 CANADA AND THE CIlIMEA 
 
 iildo ))ri(l<:jr's, stormed tlie hcij^Mit.s with the r^roatcst 
 m'alliiiitry, and did not ul)}ind(»n the utteinpt until tiie 
 ifiound was covered with their shiiu. 
 
 * After th(; l)iitth', I visited tiie Tcliernaya and tlie 
 Chasseurs d'Afriiiue — very fine-h)(»kin^' feUows in(h'ed, 
 mounted on small Arab horses, with lonjj^ manes and tails. 
 A l)roiized Zouave, I was told, refused ijl. for a small pocket- 
 book, taken from the body of a Russian officer. It con- 
 tiuned locks of hair, and the portraits of two or three very 
 pretty girls. He said he had shot tlu^ Russian himself, 
 and intended keeping it as a souvenir of the battle. 
 The French were very kind after the Tchernaya to tlie 
 Kussian wounded, and they covered the faces of all their 
 own dead they had been una])le to inter on the day of 
 the battle. I saw hundreds of Kussian slain, lying in 
 every attitude of agony over the ground, mangled with 
 round shot, or pierced by bulletr. : some of them, poor 
 fellows, near the crests of the heights which they had so 
 gallantly tried to storm. Their boots were all stripped 
 from them, as well as every article of any value. These 
 poor serfs were clothed in the rudest fashion ; they had 
 no socks, but merely a bit of canvas wrapped round the 
 foot, to protect it from the pressure of the boot. Their 
 grey coats were worn and dingy ; the bread they car- 
 ried resembled earth ; it was strewn about in various 
 parts of the field. They all carried three or four days' 
 provisions. 
 
 * The Russians apparently had endeavoured to turn 
 the Sardinian and French positions, and isolate the 
 Turks and Sardinians from the rest of the army. The 
 
FIUNT NIGHT IN THE TIlKNCHES 
 
 187 
 
 Sai'tliniiins fm^'lit adruiniljlv, l»ut tlic diit f liniiit (tftlio 
 buttle was \nn'iut l»y thf Fn-ncli. Tlity arc very pnnul, 
 and with jiistiot', of tlieir victory. Tlu; Uussiaiis, it is 
 said, lost 40()() killed, wouiidi'd, and prisoners. They 
 retreated in jj^roat order, their rear covered liy immense 
 masses of cavalry, at ahout noon. (Jenend IN'lissicr was 
 on the field at (5 a.m.; hefore that time the l-'n-nch were 
 commanded ))y General LeClerc. It is said the stren,L,'th 
 of the Russian army was 7(),()()0, thoiijj^h they did not 
 hriny: anvthin«' like that niind)er into action. The ad- 
 vance division was provided with entrenching tools, and 
 it was clear that the Jvussians intended establishing 
 themselves permanently on the heights, if they had won 
 them. I knew nothing of the battle until it was nearly 
 over, but saw the Russians in retreat, from a hill a few 
 miles off. The 12th Lancers was, I believe, the only 
 English regiment engaged. It was sent to the front at 
 General Pelissier's request. 
 
 ' On my first night of actual duty I was associated as 
 junior officer with Captain Cooke, R. E. We had to 
 commence a new sap from the fifth parallel, on the 
 salient of the Redan. A number of gabions, bread-bags 
 full of earth, hand-barrows, and spades, and shovels 
 were collected. Our working party was a strong one, 
 and set about their labours skilfully and cautiously: 
 two gabions were quietly pulled out of the parapet, and 
 an opening made for men carrying gabions to pass. The 
 direction of the sap was indicated by a white tape, and 
 the gabions were placed in a row, with as little noise as 
 possible, along the line thus marked out. The utmost 
 
 , I 
 
 i' ■ 
 
n 
 
 il 
 
 T ■ 
 
 J.; 
 
 i\ 
 
 188 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 silence was necessary, as we were Avithin a hundred and 
 fifty yards of the Kedan, in ran^-e of every descriptir>n of 
 missile, and, l)esides were close to the Russian sentries. 
 The fii'ino-, whicli had been maintained with some spirit 
 during the evening from our trenches on the Eedan, 
 suddenly almost ceased, and the suspicif^ns of the enemy 
 appeared to he aroused in ci>use(iuence. They threw out 
 a fire-ball which alighted within a few yards of our 
 newly-placed gal)ions, and blazed brightly up. We witli- 
 drew our working party as rapidly as possible to prevent 
 their being ol)served, and waited in anxious suspense 
 watching the burning missile. By what seemed ahuost 
 a miracle, the light fell in every direction, apparently, 
 but that of our trench; and the enemy clearly had not 
 perceived us, as no fire Avas opened for several minutes, 
 and then only a chance shower of grape, with the view f»f 
 making sure all was right, directed across the space in 
 front of the salient. This unhappily killed one of our 
 working part}^, and I had an opportunity afforded me uf 
 witnessinsf the coolness and unconcern with which a 
 casualty was regarded in the trenches. The poor fellow's 
 body was borne past me as I stood near the entrance of 
 the trench, and haif-an-hour afterwards, when at tlie 
 same place, one of the bearers returned to report that the 
 man was buried, adding that *•* he was surprised to find 
 he made such a handsome corpse." All this was said with 
 the enemy's shot and shell flying over us, and scattering 
 death around. There was only one casualty in the work- 
 ing party, and 87 gabions were placed and filled, and a 
 small trench dug behind them. 
 
ABSURD STYLE OF DRESS 
 
 189 
 
 *I had charge of another working party of 100 men, 
 employed in improving the otli parallel. The ground 
 was extremely rocky and unfavoural)le, and it was 
 necessary, in order to obtain earth, to place a portion of 
 the party employed outs'tde the trench, unprotected by 
 any cover whatever. The men worked in their red coats 
 buttoned up to the throat, and with 60 rounds of 
 ammunition suspended across their shoulders, as they 
 had to resume their arms and act as part of the gv^ard of 
 the trenches on the slisrhtest alarm being given of a 
 sortie of the enemy. It was not to be supposed that 
 men thus encumbered would be al)le to <ret throuifh mucli 
 work. 
 
 ' The real fact of the case is, that the system pursued 
 is wholly an erroneous one. It is not to l)e supposed 
 that men will work well buttoned U}) to the throat, and 
 weighed dtjwn with straps and pouches: nt.'ither can it 
 bu thought that inexperienced workmen will achieve 
 much under auv circumstances. In addition to these 
 disqualifying causes, a man is physically unable to under- 
 go much fatigue after a night passed in the trenches 
 without sleep, and under the enemy's lire (as all morn- 
 ing working parties have to do ). The proper mode of 
 proceeding in my opinion would be, to establish two 
 regular permanent working corps of 1000 or 1*200 men 
 each, selected from the various regiments in the army ; 
 to give these men higher pay and a more suitable work- 
 ing dress, and to camp them as near to the siege-works 
 as possible. These corps would be sufficient to furnish 
 all the requisite working parties for each attack ; they 
 
 11 
 
 1 1. 
 
 'f! 
 
 ! 5 
 
•■'y.ai;3fw>-.'i,.iaifti 
 
 190 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 m 
 
 i-i 
 
 would perform more work in an hour than ordinary work- 
 ing parties would in five or six, and do it in a more work- 
 manlike manner. They should be marched home to 
 camp immediately their labours were over, and have 
 plenty of time for rest and sleep, being merely worked 
 as ordinary navvies or labourers. It seems surprising 
 that some system of this kind has not been adopted. 
 
 ^August 25th. — Last night Captain Browne, K.E., the 
 director of the right attack, was severely wounded by a 
 minie-rifle ball through the shoulder; the doctor hopes 
 he may get over it well. We all feel great regret, as he 
 is an excellent officer, and a very good fellow. As we get 
 nearer and nearer the Redan, our work becomes more and 
 more dansferous. 
 
 * A great attack, near Baidar, was anticipated last night. 
 The whole of the Highland Brigade was sent there to 
 co-operate with the French, and extra troops marched 
 into the trenches to guard against a sortie, which was 
 likewise expected. The unfortunate Light Division 
 (which has suffered so heavily throughout) were detained 
 48 hours in the trenches. Our artillery and cavalry 
 were under arms and in readiness to move at a moment's 
 notice. It is now past seven in the morning, and we 
 have heard nothing of the attack in camp, though the 
 siege-firing has been heavy all night. 
 
 ' August Slst. — My nights in the trenches are generally 
 rather hot ones, i. e. there are a great many casualties 
 — one night especially so, when one regiment alone 
 (90th) lost 36 men, killed and wounded. I had the 
 superintendence of a number of working parties, amount- 
 
 :m.ib\\ 
 
II 
 
 HARASSING DUTY IN THE TRENCHES 
 
 191 
 
 ing to about 400 men, and was walking about visiting 
 and directing them. I came to a hole where a shell had 
 evidently burst. A corporal of some line regiment was 
 standing by, with a bayonet and part of a belt in his 
 hand. I inquired what had happened, and was told that 
 the shell, which had fallen close to where I was standing, 
 had blown some poor soldier literally to atoms. A foot, 
 a few yards in the rear of the trench, was all they had 
 been able to discover of the dead man. I hurried past 
 the scene of this shocking accident to encounter another 
 of a similar character, a Mttle farther on. 
 
 * I can imagine no duty more trying and harassing 
 than that performed every day and night by our army 
 in the trenches. If a man gets a medal for going through 
 a battle which lasts only a few hours, without running 
 away, what do they deserve who, night after night, and 
 day after day, are exposed to be killed or wounded, lying 
 in a ditch, and have to perform their duties without the 
 stimulus and excitement of action? I saw one poor 
 fellow after another brought up to the doctor's, but many 
 of them frightfully wounded by splinters of shells. Such 
 perpetual exposure to death, in cold blood, tends, every 
 day, to demoralize the army, and makes men fear the 
 shot of the enemy. 
 
 ' My night's duty in the trenches, on one of the last 
 occasions 1 was down, was diversified by a little incident 
 rather exciting in character. We were engaged about 
 the time in making a sap from our 5th parallel along the 
 slope of a hill, with the view of establishing a rifle-pit at 
 the end of it, to silence the fire of several guns on the 
 
 K^: 
 
 I : 
 
• l ir .ii J i >riY i ' |lll .n , „ ).ii... 
 
 I 1 
 I 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 '■! 
 
 H 
 
 192 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 proper left face of the lie Jan, which were unpleasantly 
 annoying our gallant allies. The Russians seemed to 
 have divined our intention, or at all events to regard our 
 nearer approach with great uneasiness ; for the moment 
 they discovered the existence of our sap, they directed a 
 heavy fire of shells, grape, and round shot at it, killing 
 and wounding, night after night, the men of our work- 
 ing parties, and knocking our gabions into toothpicks. 
 They also made frequent sorties for the purpose of pull- 
 ing down our parapet, and impeding our operations. 
 The sap was not far from the MalakhofF, commanded by 
 that work in some measure. The Russians (who are 
 admirable at outpost and picket duty) almost always 
 manage every night to get possession of the ground in 
 front of our works, and of a small rifle-pit, in a ravine, 
 whence they were able to annoy our men. They were 
 partly favoured in their approaches by the colour of the 
 grey great-coats ; they were undistinguishable from earth 
 at a short distance. 
 
 * It was proposed to establish a rifle-pit on the side of 
 the ravine opposite theirs, with the view of silencing their 
 fire. Elphinstone was on duty with me (though my 
 junior officer) on the night the attempt was directed to 
 be made ; he had been in the Crimea almost from the 
 commencement of the siege, and knew the ground 
 perfectly. We both repaired, shortly after nine o'clock, 
 to the most favourable point of our line for starting an 
 expedition across '' the open." Unluckily, though this 
 was by no means an exception to the general rule, our 
 sentries had been jDosted late, and the Ruskies were in 
 
ileasantly 
 iemed to 
 eijard our 
 I moment 
 iirected a 
 it, killing 
 Diir work- 
 oothpicks. 
 se of pull- 
 )perations. 
 manded by 
 s(who are 
 ost always 
 grovmd in 
 1 a ravine, 
 They were 
 )lour of the 
 from earth 
 
 the side of 
 nicing their 
 though my 
 directed to 
 from the 
 ;he ground 
 ine o'clock, 
 
 starting an 
 though this 
 
 d rule, our 
 Lies were in 
 
 A DANGEROUS ADVENTURE 
 
 193 
 
 possession of the ground in front of us. Nevertheless we 
 determined on trying the experiment. Our party con- 
 sisted of three soldiers with muskets, and a small working 
 party of a sapper and ten, or twelve men. Elphinstone 
 and myself, with our three armed men, crept on in front, 
 followed at a short distance by our working party 
 carrying tools and (gabions. 
 
 'We advanced as cautiously as we could: the shot and 
 shell directed from our batteries at the enemy, and by 
 theirs at us, whizzing over our heads. We spoke in 
 whispers and endeavoured to tread as lightly as possible ; 
 I groped about for a flower to bear off and send to my 
 mother as a trophy, but my liand encountered nothing 
 but thistles and grass. At length, after walking about 
 thirty or forty yards, Elphinstone stopped, and told us 
 he thought we had reached the right place. He had 
 no sooner said this, and our small working party halted 
 to wait for our workmen, when a low whistle was heard 
 from the Russian sentries, lying concealed aroimd, and 
 we perceived that we were discovered. Our men in the 
 trenches had been told we were out, and directed on no 
 account to fire. Our discovery was immediately followed 
 by a volley of musketry directed at us from all around, 
 and our men, in spite of the warning given them, seeing 
 the blaze of the Russian muskets, opened an indiscrim- 
 inate cross fire on every one (ourselves included). We 
 took to our heek and made for our own trenches as fast 
 as our legs would carry us, and happily reached them in 
 safety. Three of our working party, however, had been 
 wounded, and they had been forced to abandon their 
 
 I 
 
 ! i 
 
 r, 
 
' 4 
 
 I 
 
 a I 
 
 I 
 
 194 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 tools and gabions. This adventure led me to suggest 
 that buglers should ])e sent into the advanced trenches 
 to sound " fire," " cease firing," &c., in order that a 
 command might be instantaneously conveyed along the 
 trenches when necessary. 
 
 * On the night of my rifle pit adventure, the advanced 
 sap was guarded by a vStrong party of the 55th Regiment, 
 whilst the Guards lined the adjoining parallel. The 
 Russians were distinctly heard advancing, and their yell 
 was quite audible. They soon gave more convincing proof 
 of their approach, by firing a volley at the trench. I 
 thought I perceived signs of wavering among our fellows, 
 but they happily stood firm, and returned the enemy's fire 
 with vigour. The officer commanding the detachment 
 of the 55th said he wanted reinforcements, and I accord- 
 ingly ran to the nearest parallel, and got an officer of 
 the Guards to bring up twenty of his men. The enemy, 
 however, seeing the English soldiers stand firm, withdrew, 
 abandoning his attempt. 
 
 * I continue my rides in intervals of duty. The other 
 day I rode to a French battery near the head of the 
 harbour, whence I had an admirable view of the town, 
 harbours and shipping. The houses on the north shore 
 are pretty-looking white villas, quite uninjured. We are 
 firing now more frequently on the town, and some of 
 its finest buildings have been greatly damaged. The 
 Russians are making a bridge across the harbour, which 
 looks as if they were ready to make a run for it if neces- 
 sary. The Malakhoff is immensely strong, and fortified 
 towards the town as well as towards us. Everythiug 
 depends on the approaching assaults. If they fail, some 
 
to sufffjest 
 
 order that a 
 
 THE MONASTERY OF ST. GEORGE 
 
 193 
 
 wholly different movements may be made. Everybody 
 is sick of the siege, with its perpetual hammering, and 
 the gradual daily consumption of life in the hot, dusty 
 trenches, apparently to all the world in general without 
 any result. 
 
 * I have visited lately, amongst other places, the 
 Monastery of St. George. It is very pictures(|uely 
 situated. A few Eussian monks are still permitted to 
 live there, and there the French (gay everywhere) delight 
 to have their little picnic, occasionally enlivened by the 
 presence of aome piquaute brunette^ the wife of an officer 
 of the navy or army. On the occasion of my visit, a 
 party were sitting on the ground around the relics of a 
 feast, singing and drinking champagne. It was certainly 
 a contrast to " life in the trenches." 
 
 *The Monastery of St. George is almost the only build- 
 ing within range of the camp which has been respected. 
 It consists merely of a few plain buildings, and a couple 
 of little chapels. It has, however, a noble well, and a 
 fountain of the coldest and most delicious spring water. 
 The ground immediately in front is arranged in small 
 terraces, shaded by trees, overlooking the perpendicular 
 cliffs and the blue sea. There is a sanatorium in its 
 neighbourhood for sick officers and soldiers. One of the 
 attractions of the place is a pretty little Greek girl with 
 classical profile, and gentle winning demeanour; she is 
 quite a child, only twelve years old. She will have plenty 
 of youthful memories to cherish up. The beauty of the 
 weather almost reconciles one to the monotony of camp 
 Hfe. There has been scarcely a drop of ruin since I came, 
 
 o 2 
 
 1 , 
 
 li 
 
'H'tlit'l rt'i iMnltni. if II 
 
 ,«l 
 
 
 i I 
 
 196 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 and the sky and temperature resemble those of Canada 
 in September. I should think, to people living in 
 properly drained cities and iniexposed to hardships, the 
 Crimea must be a most healthy residence. 
 
 * A grand combined attack on our siege works and 
 the whole position is daily, and even hourly, expected. 
 The whole of the troops on the line of the Tchernaya 
 have been, I hear, under arms every morning at three 
 o'clock for the last fortnight ; and the Highland Brigade, 
 consisting of the 42nd, 72nd, 79th, and 93rd Regiments, 
 under 8ir Colin Campbell, have been marched to the 
 left of the Sardinian army as a support. 
 
 * Since the battle of the Tchernaya, the French have 
 fortified their position very strongly, and the hills are 
 covered with musketry ambuscades, entrenchments, and 
 masked batteries. No one is allowed to cross the river, 
 and Zouave sentries, in their picturesque uniforms, line 
 the banks at intervals of a few yards. The position I 
 consider now almost impregnable at this point. The 
 choicest troops of the French army defend the line of 
 the river, and the Chasseurs d'Afrique, their crack 
 cavalry, are in great strength in the neighbouring valle3% 
 The variety of uniforms, and the picturesque costume 
 of the African corps of the French army — the Zouaves 
 Indigenes, Egyptians principally, the finest infantry 
 they have — is very striking, and one continually en- 
 counters groups forming perfect little pictures. The 
 French are quite at home in the field. One of their 
 regiments is encamped on the top of a bleak hill with 
 no shelter except tentes cVabH, blankets stuck on bayo- 
 
ANOTHER GENERAL BOMBARDMENT 
 
 197 
 
 nets. Here and there they have formed arbours of 
 boughs of trees, and the other day I saw a pretty minia- 
 ture little garden. 
 
 * General Pelissier's head-fjuarters are surrounded by 
 a chevaux-de-frise, and the front of his tent gravelled, 
 and kept in the neatest order ; no officer, even of the 
 highest rank, being allowed to ride to the door, l^ut 
 obliged to dismount before approaching it. The youngest 
 ensign of our army may ride or walk to General Simp- 
 son's unmolested. 
 
 ' Sept. 5th. — Thank God, I still keep quite well, 
 though disease and death are rife around me. Exposed 
 constantly to danger, I can rely only upon God, and 
 place my life in His liands. Last Sunday I received 
 the Sacrament with seven or eight of my brother-officers, 
 — the ceremony, within sound, and even range, of the 
 enemy's guns, was to me deeply impressive. Nothing 
 makes a man feel the extreme uncertainty of life, and 
 his entire dependence on the will of God, so much as 
 war. I was on duty in the trenches on Sunday night, 
 and I think the ceremony I had gone through strength- 
 ened, and supported me a great deal. I had several most 
 providential escapes. 
 
 * There are stronjj rumours current of the evacuation 
 of Sebastopol after a grand despairing effort of the enemy. 
 This morning, shortly after daybreak, another general 
 bombardment from the English and French batteries 
 on the whole Eussian line of defence commenced, and 
 was conducted with such violence that in half an hour 
 the Russians withdrew their guns from the embrasures, 
 
( I 
 
 198 
 
 CANADA AND THE CKIMEA 
 
 ;, ■jjs 
 
 I >rr 1 
 
 and ceased to reply to it, — it is to be continued for 
 thirty-six hours. Its object, I understand, is to enable 
 the French to push forward on the 3Ialakhoff: they 
 are so close that a final assault cannot long be delayed. 
 The Russian defence has been admirable ; their batteries 
 are beautifully constructed, and quite models of en- 
 gineering. One cannot help both admiring and pity- 
 ing them. 
 
 ^Sept. Qfh. — Yesterday morning, an officer of the 3 1st 
 (Captain Anderson), who had been acting for some time 
 as Assistant Engineer, was killed by a round shot in the 
 trenches. He was a very fine young fellow, and one of 
 the handsomest men in the army. All of us Vv'ho were 
 able (I believe) attended his funeral in the afternoon. 
 I had only known him a few days, but liked what I saw 
 of him, and his death has been a blow to us all. The 
 band of the regiment played his funeral march to the 
 grave. The coffin was a plain deal one, and on it were 
 placed a Union Jack, and the cap and sword of the de- 
 ceased. The procession moved from our camp at about 
 six o'clock. The evening was lovely. The burial-place 
 (Cathcart's Hill) was in full view of Sebastopol and the 
 siege works, and a bombardment was going on from 
 various parts of our line as we lowered the corpse into 
 its last resting-place. Groups of soldiers off duty stood 
 watching the sad procession as it moved slowly past 
 them ; some civilians, who happened to be present, un- 
 covered ; and cavalry soldiers dismounted and stood by 
 the side of their horses. Nothing could well have been 
 more impressive. I walked side by side with the clergy- 
 
tinned for 
 to enable 
 tioff: they 
 >e delayed, 
 ir batteries 
 lels of en- 
 and pity- 
 
 of the 31st 
 
 some time 
 
 shot in the 
 
 and one of 
 
 IS v;ho were 
 
 e afternoon. 
 
 what I saw 
 
 IS all. The 
 
 larch to the 
 
 i on it were 
 
 of the de- 
 
 mp at about 
 
 Durial-place 
 
 )pol and the 
 
 ng on from 
 
 corpse into 
 f duty stood 
 
 slowly past 
 present, un- 
 md stood by 
 11 have been 
 h the clergy- 
 
 A RUSSIAN SHIP ON FIRE 
 
 IM 
 
 man, and thought of who might he tlio next victim. 
 One must steel one's feelings and summon all one's forti- 
 tude to bear tlie spectacle of the miseries of war. 
 
 ' Last night one of the enemy's large line-of-battle- 
 ships, moored in tlie harbour, caught fire and illuminated 
 the whole horizon. There wore also, I hear, two other 
 smaller firer. The sight of the burning ship was very 
 fine. It could be seen distinctly from a hill near our 
 camp. The guns went off as the fire reached them ; 
 but it seems the Russians had contrived to save the 
 powder, as no loud explosion was heard. The sight of 
 this fire was of course very clieering to our men, who 
 devoutly wish the whole place would burn to the ground. 
 The bombardment is still going on, and the thunder of 
 artillery accompanies my pen as I write. 
 
 ' Orders have been given to form steps in the most 
 advanced parallels, and also to hasten the completion of a 
 small battery for three heavy guns near Egerton's rifle- 
 pit, to silence the fire of one of the flanks on the proper 
 left face of the Redan, which commanded the space in 
 front of the salient angle. 
 
 ^ Sept. 7th. — Thank God, I am alive and well after 
 another night in the trenches. The bombardment is 
 still going on. The Russian shells killed and wounded 
 several of our men in the advanced trenches ; but I 
 managed to push forward our approaches satisfactorily. 
 *An officer of the Guards was killed whilst visiting 
 his sentries at the head of one of them ; I had been 
 speaking to him shortly before. The duties of the 
 Engineer officers at night in the trenches are very 
 
' 
 
 ft- 
 
 ' 
 
 i' 1 
 
 
 1. ' 
 
 1: 
 
 •^00 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 arduous. I was walkiiii^ iihout uudrr firo noarly 
 the whole ni^'ht, haviii;^; woikiui,' parties in various 
 parts of the trenelies 4.^0 stronj,'. I was several times 
 o])Hge(l to throw inysclf on tlu? ^'nmnd to avoid splin- 
 ters of shells. There is a little hut protected from fire 
 in the (juarries, which, is called the Engineer Oftiee. 
 It is so small that one cannot stand upriglit in it, and is 
 full of fleas and mice ; hut it is a welcome retreat from 
 danger, after a long and fatiguing round through tin- 
 rocky trenches. I gave it u[) in great measure to th»^ 
 doctor on duty last night, but happened to he present 
 when several poor fellows were brought in with limbs 
 torn away by splinters of shells. I was much shocked 
 at the various sights I was compelled to witness. The 
 wounded men behaved heroically. 
 
 'The Engineer on duty, though perhaps only a young 
 subaltern, is the next greatest man to the General of 
 the trenches. Every one consults him; and I was 
 frequently asked by experienced officers how many men 
 should be placed at particular points, and how they 
 should be disposed; and my advice was always imme- 
 diately acted upon. 
 
 ' After an arduous ami sleepless night, and a fatiguing 
 walk from the advanced trenches to a point wliere a 
 horse can be brought in safety, Engineer officers, on 
 their return to their tents, between live and six in the 
 morning, have to write detailed reports describing the 
 progress of the work during the night, the operations of 
 the enemy, and the employment of a variety of working 
 
INTENDED F NCH At?S<AULT 
 
 301 
 
 parties. This moniint; my rcptut covt-rcd more than a 
 shoet of Inra,*' letter-paiMT, so it can Ik* easily imaj^'ined 
 tliat it recjiiin's some effort to write t!ies»! reports \v1h*ii 
 very tired; btit necessity kuowH in) law, ami there is 
 some Batisfiirtiou in knowing tliat one's effusions are 
 perused by tlie (.'onimander'iji-i^'hief. My recommen- 
 dations of various men for distin;i;uishud romhiet have 
 l)rou<^l»t ]f,'ratuities from (leneral Simpson for the in- 
 dividuals praised, amounting,' alto;j^ether t(^ 8/. 
 
 'It is rumoured that the French assault the Malakhotf 
 to-morrow. The Kn<dish Li'dit Division are also re- 
 ported to be under arms, so that it is probable the En- 
 glish army may take part in the assault. * # * 
 May God bless all who are dear to me, and have them 
 in His holy keeping. The above rumour has been 
 fully confirmed, and this may be my last night on 
 earth. 
 
 ' If the French army succeed in their assault ou the 
 Malakhoff, the English are to attack the Kedan ; in 
 fact, there is to be a gen(a-al attack along the whole 
 line. All the officers of Engineers are to be told off to 
 their several positions to-morrow; several accompany 
 the assaulting column, some remain with the reserves, 
 I may know early to-morrow where my place is to be, 
 but of course everything is uncertain in war. I am 
 sad, but quite calm; I look upon all this butchery with 
 horror, but accept it as a stern necessity, and am deter- 
 mined with God's help to do my duty. If I die, may 
 God of His infinite mercy prepare me for the great 
 
■ «Kfc<fett- -' rtl^nTiilln-iTiHitiiOTln "i- 
 
 «<HaMtr» A"(e*f ■•»>*»0%-!-W 
 
 I ';': i 
 
 I !' 
 
 202 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 changfe. How many hundreds of poor fellows will 
 breathe their last to-morrow ! I must not think of 
 home, or I shall unman myself. May God be pleased 
 to bless and preserve me. 
 
 'Sept. 8th. — lam to lead the assault with the scaling 
 ladders. I march down in about half an hour. 
 
Imi 
 
 203 
 
 I 
 
 1! J 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE ASSAULT OF THE REDAN. 
 
 TTHE secret of the attack was admira})ly preserved. Xot 
 -L a whisper was circulated. It took us all by surprise, 
 as we imagined no furtlier attempt would be made 
 on the Eedan, after the failure of the assault of the 
 18th of June. We heard, however, that it was arran^^ed 
 that both armies should "go in" in earnest, and that the 
 success of the French in their attack on the Malakhoflf 
 was to be the signal for our advance on our old enemy 
 the Redan. Oar several positions were not assigned to 
 us; but knowing that it would probably fall to my lot, 
 as Senior Subaltern, to occupy the post of honour and 
 lead the ladder party, I prepared myself, as well as the 
 short interval permitted, for the probable fate which 
 would attend the performance of the desperate duty. 
 I took farewell of my mother and all my relations, 
 committing them to the blessing and protection of God. 
 I endeavoured to pray earnestly, and to compose ray 
 mind. I felt the only course left open was willing 
 submission, and fixed resolve that if I were to die, to 
 fall in endeavouring to do my duty to the uttermost. 
 
 n 
 
 M 
 
 h i\'\ 
 
'- iHipj^iri^t i^fS ii^'tftifaiH.'i; 
 
 ■ ' 111 
 
 1 Li 
 
 1 
 
 
 ■^■■-"'-^*>i,i4itai^'^^«^'*ii^..iaiqfVVW-'>i 
 
 h i 
 
 204 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 Beyond this, I was determined not to go. Though 
 every soklier should expose himself without the slightest 
 hesitation to the greatest danger when necessary, reck- 
 lessness should never form part of his creed. His duty 
 to his country should be the primary, and the preserva- 
 tion of his life the secondary, consideration. No really 
 good soldier throws his life away without aim or object. 
 ' I had been on duty in the trenches during the night 
 of the 6th September, and was consequently very tired 
 on the night before the assault. I slept well and 
 calmly on the whole, but awoke rather early in the 
 
 mornnii):. 
 
 ' Between five and six o'clock, a.m., the Adjutant came 
 in and confirmed my conjecture that I was to lead the 
 ladder party. Soon after Anderson came into my tent, 
 and informed me he was told off for the working party 
 to follow when the storming party were well in pos- 
 session, and form a lodgment across the Redan. I rose 
 and dressed; I put on my red shell jacket to look as 
 much like the men as possible, and carried in my 
 pocket besides a tourniquet, portion of a night-shirt 
 torn into strips for bandages. 
 
 • ' I called at my Colonel's (Col. Chapman) to read the 
 written instructions given me by General Jones. I 
 found they were as follows: — "The Subaltern of En- 
 gineers in charge of the ladder party should, as soon 
 as the troops have got into the Eedan, commence a 
 communication by a ramp from the ditch to the glacis. 
 It will be necessary for him to ascertain whether any 
 parapet will be necessary across the ditch of the two 
 
rnEPARING TO LEAD "THE FORLORN HOPE 
 
 » 
 
 205 
 
 faces, to guard against any attacks the enemy may be 
 disposed to make by them. If the scarp and parapet of 
 the salient of the Redfin do not form an easy ascent and 
 descent, it must be made so." 
 
 * These directions were clear and explicit enough ; but 
 to carry them out, positively no working party, with tlie 
 exception of a few sappers with shovels, nad been told 
 off. I immediately pointed this out, and asked for and 
 obtained a working party of 100 men, who were in- 
 structed to follow immediately after the storming party. 
 
 * I had an interview with Nicholson (now JNIajor 
 Nicholson, R.E.), to whom I gave my brother's address, 
 with a request that he would communicate with him in 
 the event of my death. He promised to act for me in 
 everything as he felt I should have wished him to act, 
 and tried to reassure me as to my chance of escape, 
 though (as he told me afterwards when 1 came back ) he 
 had not the slightest expectation of ever seeing me 
 again safe and sound. These matters settled, I rode 
 down to the trenches with Anderson, Sedley, and Major 
 Camp-jell, 46th. They were thickly lined with troops 
 when A re arrived, and the batteries were firing heavily 
 on the Redan and Russian works; the enemy replying 
 with grape and round shot. 
 
 ' I lound the ladder party, composed of men from the 
 3rd Buffs and 90th and 97th Regiments, lining the sap 
 in front of the Redan (called the sixth parallel), the 
 trench which Cooke, and mvself commenced on mv first 
 night's duty in the trenches. The party consisted of 
 320 men, who were told off to forty scaling ladders, 
 
 )! II 
 
 h 
 
 I ' 
 
 , i: 
 
^P^iUv^^ '".^-^jtf.jmfeHl^i-A-^ -■■'•■.»-^*ifc.'.l,ji 
 
 !^T, 
 
 ! ;■ 
 
 
 ih 
 
 
 206 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 each twenty-four feet long. My instructions were, to 
 advance with my sappers, armed with crowbars and axes 
 for cutting through the abatis, and with the bidder 
 party immediately after the skirmishers had been 
 thrown out. The party was under the command of 
 Major Welsford, 97th Eegiment, with whom I conferred 
 for several minutes, and to whom I explained the point 
 where tlie ladders were to be placed, in order to screen 
 them as much as possiljle from the fire of the enemy. 
 I tlien told my party of sappers what they w^ere to do, 
 and assembled the non-commissioned officers to point 
 out the measures to be taken under their directions, in 
 the event of my being either killed or wounded. These 
 arrangements being made, I awaited the signal to 
 advance, silently calling upon God to aid and assist me 
 in doing my duty, and, if it were His will, to preserve 
 my life. Suddenly there was a shout that the French 
 were attacking the iNIalakhoff. I looked over the 
 parapet, and saw them rushing up the salient. They 
 were apparently unresisted. The French flag in a 
 minute was seen waving on the ramparts. All this 
 happened so instantaneously, that it took us all by sur- 
 prise. 
 
 ' We had anticipated a hard struggle, and we were 
 ordered not to advance till a decided success had been 
 achieved ; but, as it were, in a second the dreaded 
 Malakhoff had fallen into the hands of the French. 
 Our men could be no longer restrained ; before there 
 was time to get the ladders to the front, and before 
 the sappers could advance to cut away the abatis, they 
 
THE ASSAULT OF THE EEDAX 
 
 207 
 
 MLS were, to 
 
 rushed in a straggling line over the parapets, and 
 dashed onwards to the salient. I hurried up my 
 sappers as fast as I could, shouting to them till I was 
 nearly hoarse, and ran forward with tliem and the 
 ladder party, with a drawn sword in my hand (my 
 scabbard and belt I left behind). In the hurry and 
 confusion, many ladders were left l^ehind. There was, 
 however, little excuse for this, as the men had had their 
 places distinctly assigned to them, and should not liave 
 left the trench without their ladders. It was of course 
 impossible to perceive that anything of the kind had 
 occurred, and still more impossible to have rectified it 
 had it been known. The only word was — " Forward ; " 
 the only course to pursue — to advance as rapidly as 
 possible. Nearly 200 yards of rough broken ground, 
 and an abatis had to be crossed under the enemv's fire. 
 The men advanced with the greatest spirit. I could 
 see bodies dead and wounded lying along and strewing 
 the ground on each side of me, as I pressed forward, 
 shouting continually to the men to advance, and not to 
 pause for an instant. When I came to the abatis, I 
 found five men nearly exhausted carrying a ladder and 
 trying to get it over the opposing branches ; the remain- 
 ing three men composing the l)arty of eight had pro- 
 bably been killed or wounded in the advance. I lent 
 them my aid and urged them on. The edge of the 
 ditch was soon reached, and I was relieved to find the 
 ditch not nearly so formidable as it had been repre- 
 sented, and as I had good reason, from the solidity and 
 extent of the Russian defences, to suppose it was likely 
 
 i 
 
 ! I. 
 
 
 ! ' 
 
»ss^jr-w'iO»«*utaiJ>i«cc.-t.*,»«j;; 
 
 j,:i i; 
 
 II ' 
 
 a 
 
 
 I 
 
 it 
 
 ■HI' :. 
 
 ■; , 
 
 208 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 to prove. I was prepared for a broad deep ditch, 
 flanked by caponieres, and for military pits, chevaux- 
 de-frise, palisades, and all kinds of obstacles. The 
 dreaded ditch of the Redan, however, proved nothing 
 but a simple trench, perhaps fourteen or fifteen feet 
 deep at the counterscarp, and twenty or rather more at 
 the escarp. I kept my ladders rather to the right of 
 the salient angle, having been warned that the flanking 
 fire would probably be severe up the proper left face. 
 Half-a-dozen or so were lowered and reversed in a 
 minute, and the men poured up them with eager haste. 
 I set to work with every sapper I could get hold of, or 
 to whom amid the din I could make myself audible, to 
 tear down the rubble stone-work with which the salient 
 of the escarp was reveted, and form a ramp practicable 
 for ascent without ladders. 
 
 'The long continuance of dry weather which pre- 
 ceded the assault must be regarded as a very favourable 
 circumstance. The gabions staked to the ground with 
 wooden spikes (with which the counterscarp was 
 riveted) were torn down, and used in forming, with 
 rocks, stones, and debris, a small parapet across the ditch 
 of the proper left face, and a similar counter-caponiere 
 thrown up also on the other side. I had to work, how- 
 ever, with my own hands; it was difficult to get any 
 one to do anything ; the men, as they straggled up to 
 the assault in support of the advance, seemed stunned 
 and paralyzed — there was little of that dash and en- 
 thusiasm which might have been locked for from 
 British soldiers in an assault; i": fjut it required all 
 
\¥ 
 
 WHERE ARE THE RESERVES? 
 
 309 
 
 eep ditch, 
 !, chevaux- 
 cles. The 
 red nothing 
 fifteen feet 
 ler more at 
 he right of 
 he flanking 
 er left face, 
 ^ersed in a 
 eaccer haste. 
 , hold of, or 
 f audible, to 
 a the salient 
 p practicable 
 
 ■y 
 
 which pre- 
 favourable 
 OTound with 
 erscarp was 
 rming, with 
 OSS the ditch 
 er-caponiere 
 work, how- 
 to get any 
 iggled up to 
 ned stunned 
 ash and en- 
 .1 for from 
 irequired all 
 
 the efforts and example of their officers to got the men 
 on, and tljese were rendered almost ineffective from the 
 manner in wliich the various regiments soon irot con- 
 fused and jumljled together. The men, after firing 
 from behind the traverses, near the salient, for lialf-an- 
 hour at the enemy, — also firing behind his parados 
 and traverses, — began to waver. I nished up the 
 salient with the view of cheering them on, and the 
 offictrs exerted themselves to sustain them ; the men 
 gave a cheer and went at it afresli. Tlie supports or 
 reserves, ordered to follow, straggled up in inefficient 
 disorder, but w^ere unable to press into the work, as the 
 men in advance, occupying the salient, refused to go 
 on, notwithstanding the devoted efforts of the ofificers 
 to induce them to do so. Whether it was that they 
 dreaded some secret trap, or some mine which would 
 destroy the whole of them at once — whether it was 
 that the lono: and tedious sie^'e works had lowered their 
 "?nora/e" — or whether it was owing to the dreadful 
 manner in which tlieir l)i\ision (the Light, most in- 
 judiciously selected to lead) had been cut up in previ(ms 
 actions — it is a melancholy truth, that the majority of 
 the assaulting cohunn did not display the spirit and 
 dash of thorough good soldiers, when assaulting the 
 enemy. They refused, however, to retreat, and seemed 
 to look round for aid: I trembled when I saw no one 
 coming, and looked continually, anxiously, round for 
 the reserves I considered, as a matter of course, would 
 be advanced immediately it was perceived that the 
 
 II ' ■ 
 
 i ! I. 
 
I ,:i 
 
 
 ¥. ) 
 
 210 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 leading columns had failed to carry tlie position, and 
 were commencing to waver. 
 
 * It wan in vain, however, to look ; our Crenerals had 
 left their reserves about an h')ur's march in the rear, so 
 that even if our soldiers had charged forwards, as they 
 should have done, they woidd probably have found 
 themselves compromised, surrounded by the enemy, 
 and immolated, before any assistance could liave been 
 brought to them. I had just given directions to the 
 fraction of the working party of 100 men told off to me, 
 which reached the ditch, what tliey were to do, and was 
 returning towards the salient, when the sad repulse took 
 place. What brought matters completely to a crisis, I 
 have never exactly ascertained : I heard directly after I 
 regained our trenches that three officers of the 41st, 
 after vainly striving to induce the men to advance, 
 rushed forward together, and were all three sliot down 
 like one man by the cross fire of the Russians behind 
 their parados. This w^as the turning-point, according 
 to this account, of the men's indecision — they w^avered 
 and fled. I was near the counterscarp, when I saw the 
 whole living mass on the salient be<jfin reelini>' and swav- 
 ing to and fro. In a moment I found mvself knocked 
 down and lying on my face, with a number of men 
 scrambling over me — their bavonets running through 
 my clothes. I expected to have been stunned and 
 bayoneted, and to have l)een left insensible in the ditch, 
 or shot by the enemy before I could drag myself out of 
 it. However, at last I saw an opening, and holding on 
 by my hands and knees, managed to force my way to it 
 
 
THE UEPULSE 
 
 211 
 
 Dsition, ami 
 
 enerals had 
 the rear, so 
 rds, as they 
 have fouiul 
 the enemy, 
 I have heen 
 tious to the 
 id off to me, 
 do, and was 
 repulse took 
 to a crisis, I 
 rectly after I 
 of the 41st, 
 to advance, 
 ■e sliot down 
 Asians behind 
 nt, according 
 they wavered 
 len I saw the 
 no- and sway- 
 self knocked 
 iber of men 
 ning through 
 stunned and 
 ill the ditch, 
 myself out of 
 id holding on 
 my way to it 
 
 tliroufdi the niovino: mass, and recrain mv lef's. I ran 
 tlien as fast as I could towards our advanced trenches, 
 the grape whistling past me like liail, and tlie Russians 
 standing on the top of tlieir parapets, and firing volh'vs 
 into the crowd of fuiritives. 
 
 'In our trenches all was shame, rage, juid fear — the 
 men were crowded together and disorganized. It was 
 hopeless to attempt to renew tlie attack with the same 
 troops. ]\Iy Sappers all went to the (^larries, but I re- 
 mained for more tlmn half an hour, in the most advanced 
 trench, with the shattered remains of the assaulting 
 column. An officer of the 92nd came up to me and 
 shook me by the liand, saying that he was glad to see 
 me safe and sound, and that of liis regiment he was the 
 only officer left, — ]Majoi- Welsford and "olonel Hancock 
 (whose wife, poor thing! was then in the Crimea) hav- 
 ing both been killed, and several others wounded. 
 
 ' Finding there was to be no attempt to renew the 
 attack, and mentally returning thanks to God for my 
 wonderful preservation from imminent jjeril, I returned 
 to join my party at th(; Quarries. ( )n my way I passed 
 General Sir ^^'illianl Codrington, who was charged with 
 the direction of the attack, sitting in one of the trenches, 
 with his aides-de-camp about him. I repeated to him 
 a few Avords I had heard fall from the lips of an officer 
 of the 33rd, to the effect, that if it were possible to col- 
 lect the men of the various regiments together, under 
 their owti officers, he would be willing to renew the 
 assault. Sir William said the fire of the grape was too 
 heavy to admit of the attack being repeated that day. I 
 
 P 2 
 
 
 I ; i 
 
 h 
 
 ( , 
 
212 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 >J< 
 
 r' ' 
 I'' i 
 
 was received with very kind and hearty congratulations 
 l)y one friend or brotlicr officer after antjtiier, whom I 
 encountered in niv proLrress throuirh tlie trenches — 
 Anderson especially, who was attached to the same 
 company as myself, said he had been particularly 
 anxious ; and when he found I did not return with the 
 {Sappers, thought it was all over with me. The 
 Enoiueers' hut, near the Quarries, presented a most 
 lamentable spectacle when I reached it. Every stretcher 
 had been put into recjuisition for carrying off the 
 wounded. Some of the men employed as bearers, it 
 was said, had not returned — remaining away to avoid 
 the danger (for dejith and wounds v/ere rife through 
 every part of the lines this day, and men were actually 
 killed in the stretchers on which they were being borne 
 wounded to the rear). 
 
 SSeveral poor fellows, more or less grievously wounded, 
 were lying helpless and in agony in the trench. Inside 
 the hut was a poor gunner, with his leg badly shattered 
 by the splinter of a shell. In front, in the centre of the 
 roadway, lay a rifleman dying, covered with blood about 
 the head and face, and foaming at the mouth — a most 
 ghastly spectacle. Near me was a poor fellow shot iu 
 the small of the back, iu great pain : I managed to raise 
 him up, Avith some emjity sandbags, to make his posi- 
 tion easier — this was all I could do. Three or four 
 more victims lay groaning or faint and silent around ; 
 while the inexorable roar of cannon and shot continued, 
 and death remained l)usy at his work. The rags I had 
 taken down with me proved very useful : I bound up 
 
SHAMEFUL XEGLECf 
 
 il3 
 
 the •Nvounds of several ])oor fellows wirl tlicni, i tlie 
 ditch of the Kedan, during thi' assiult, udiniiiisteriu<;' 
 some V)raiidy to them from my flask ; and actually wa^ 
 thanked by the surgeon in the advanced trendies for a 
 couple which I gave him from my cap, as 1 went down 
 (he having told me he was (piite destitute of any 
 supply!), and that by some shameful negh-ct he had 
 been on duty during a terrific bondiardment, dressing 
 tiie wounds, or y)erhaps merely roughly binding tliem 
 up, as well as the urgency of the case would admit, 
 for forty-eight hours. I felt very indignant and dis- 
 gusted at this, after all that has been said and written 
 on this painfid subject. 
 
 * Wliilst waiting in the Quarries with the remains of 
 my party of sappers (some of my mere handful of 
 twenty-two having been killed or wounded), a naval 
 officer came up and asked for Elphiustone, the engineer 
 officer on duty, as he wished the direction of an em- 
 brasure in a battery to be altered, in order that one of 
 the guns might be turned on some shipping. Though 
 my duty strictly speaking was over, yet I felt I wjus 
 called upon to supply Elphinstone's place at a time like 
 this, and therefore repjured with a party of sappers t(j 
 the battery indicated. I heard that the Eussian fire 
 had been very heavily directed on this and an adjoining 
 battery, and that they had succeeded in silencing several 
 of the guns. I gave the necessary directions for the 
 alteration of the embrasure, and then repaired to a 
 point near where Col. Chapman, De Vere, and several 
 
 t 
 
/ :M 
 
 2U 
 
 CANADA AND THE CIIIMEA 
 
 I I 
 
 ;l 
 
 I 7' 
 
 I > 
 
 km: 
 
 otliiTs, were loi>kiu;;- over the parapet, ftrid wjitdiiiiL; 
 anxidiisly, as well as the dense tlouds of nmoke mid 
 dust would admit, tin? assault of tlie Frcneli. It was 
 impossible, however, to (listiii;L;uish any olijeet very 
 clearly; all was <lin, smoke, and confusion. A kind of 
 hurricane blew during the day of the assault, and pre- 
 vented the intended co-operation of the navy. Col. 
 Chapman told me that my ladders had been admirably 
 planted, and that as there appeare<l n« -thing for me 
 then to do, I had better go and report myself to .Sir 
 William ('odrington, and ask him if he re(|uired my 
 services any further. If he said not, I was to return to 
 camp, and write a short report of the assault for General 
 Jones. I returned to the Quarries, and found on my 
 way there that 8ir Colin Campbell was left in com- 
 mand. I accordingly addressed my inquiries to him. 
 He told me that he shoidd not want me, and asked me 
 to sit down beside him, and give him some acconnt 
 of the attack. I did so in a few words. On my way 
 home, every one that I met who knew I had been with 
 the ladder party, seemed ast(jnislied, and I am haj)py 
 to add glad, to see me back. Tired and excited as I 
 "svas, I had to write a report, which was altered oii 
 account of the last paragraph, which might have got 
 me into trouble, and to give me an opportunity of 
 mentioning the names of the sappers who distinguished 
 themselves. There were nine I think killed or wounded 
 out of a small party of twenty-two. The following is 
 a copy of this report : — 
 
OFFiriAL nKPOKT 
 
 21:. 
 
 • " IJ. i:. Caiiil), S.'|.t. >«tli, IS.M. 
 
 * " In oltcdicnco to your instnit'tioiis, F hnvc 
 the lioiiour to report for yoiir iiit'oniiatioii tlic j»io- 
 ftM'diiii^'s of ilie siippcrs mimI hidder jcii'ty to which I 
 wa> attached at the assault iA' the I{e(laii tliis luoniiun'. 
 I was ordered to advaiu'c witli the ladder party, iiiuiie- 
 diately after tiie skirmishers had heeu thrown out. 
 
 '"The exeitenieut auioii;^'' the' troops in the trenches, 
 however, was so ^reat when they ])ereeived that the 
 French were masters of the .MaJakhoff, that they rushed 
 unexpectedly over the parapets, hefore the ladder party 
 had liad time to <'et clear of the advanced treiu'h. I <jot 
 niy sappers to the front, as soon as possible, with tiieir 
 crowhiu's and axes, and ran on with tlie advanced 
 ladders. 
 
 '"The enemy opened a lieavy musketry fire upon 
 us, and occasioned many casualties auKju^' the huhh'r 
 party ; however, the men pressed rapidly forward. 
 
 *"The abatis did not prove a serious obstacle, and 
 the ladders were soon low^ered into the ditch, and 
 reversed from the counterscarp to the escarp. The}' 
 were placed in such a position that the men descendin<;' 
 and ascending them were scarcely, if at all, exposed to 
 the flanking fire of the Russians up the ditch «-»f each 
 face. 
 
 ' " The ditch of the Redan itself is not more than 
 15 or 16 feet deep, if so much, and only 8 feet broad, 
 and tiiere was no difficulty experienced in forming a 
 ramp for the men to ascend. 
 
 i 'J 
 
 ) ■ 
 
216 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■^ 
 
 
 1 v^ 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 m I 
 
 '"The working party told off for me (consisting of 
 100 men of the 77th Eeginient) were not to arrive till 
 the whole of the assaulting column had come up. I, 
 however, employed the small party of sappers under my 
 charge till their arrival, with a few men of the assault- 
 ing party, in forming a small caponiere across the ditch 
 of the proper left face, up wdiich the enemy was pouring 
 volleys of musketry. 
 
 * " Cfabions were torn down from the counterscarp, 
 and filled as wx*ll as possible with loose stones, and a 
 partial cover was soon obtained. 
 
 ' " The fire of the enemy, however, was so hot that, 
 after half-an-hour, the work had to be suspended. A 
 small caponiere was also in course of construction 
 across the ditch of the proper right face, near the 
 s:ilient, and a fair cover had been obtained there when 
 the assaidting colrmm retreated. A portion of my 
 working party had arrived just before the troops with- 
 drew, and they were engaged on these caponieres, and 
 on forming an easy ramp into the ditch from the glacis, 
 when the repulse took place. 
 
 ' " It is not my duty to offer any opinion on the 
 general arrangements for the attack. I shall therefore 
 forbear from stating, vudess called upon to do so, 
 the causes which in my opinion led to its failure. 
 ' " I have the honour to be. Sir, 
 ' " YoiQ' most obedient hianble servant, 
 ' " George Ranken, 
 
 * " Lieut. Koyal Engineers. 
 ' •' Lieut.-Col. Chapman, C.B., &c. &c. &c." 
 
!i' 
 
 isisting of 
 arrive till 
 lie up. I, 
 ; under my 
 he assault- 
 s the ditch 
 Tim pouring 
 
 unterscarp, 
 )nes, and a 
 
 io hot that, 
 oended. A 
 ■onstruction 
 3, near the 
 there when 
 tion of my 
 
 oo-pH with- 
 inieres, and 
 
 the glacis, 
 
 lion on the 
 I therefore 
 to do so, 
 
 dure. 
 Sir, 
 
 e servant, 
 
 Engineers. 
 
 THE NEXT MORNING 
 
 217 
 
 * After I had finished my report, I dined with Ander- 
 son and his l)rother, the same party which had dined 
 together with anxious and rather gloomy forebodings 
 on the previous evening. Before I had well eaten my 
 dinner, a telegraphic message summoned me to head- 
 quarters. I rode there with Captain ^Montagu, K.E., 
 (who had had the superintendence of the various parties 
 at the assault,) and found the old General sitting up in 
 his arm-chair looking rather grave and stern. He was 
 in conversation with 8ir William Codrington, who had 
 evidently been giving him a description of the day's pro- 
 ceedings. I explained to him about the ditch of the 
 Redan, and answered a number of c[uestions, and he 
 then told me I might go. I retired to rest on this 
 eventful day, hardly able to express my gratitude to 
 God for my deliverance. 
 
 ' I was very tired, but the heavy fire of cannon 
 which still continued, and my excitement, prevented 
 much sleep. 
 
 'fS^fpf. 9tJi. — I w^as awakened from a broken slumber 
 at [ibout four this morning, by a tremendous explosion, 
 and soon after heard Nicholson (who had just come back 
 from a night's trench duty) assert, that the liussians had 
 evacuated the town, and were firing their magazines by 
 galvanic batteries. I immediately dressed, and after a 
 cup of coffee rode off with Nicholson, De Vere, and Sir 
 Edward Colebrooke (an English gentleman who had come 
 out in his yacht to see the fun) towards Sebastopol. We 
 bad not gone far, before we saw an immense cloud rise 
 into the air accompanied by a deep sullen sound, the 
 
 n 
 
 ^ ! 
 
 I 'I 
 
'' '^fHiiX- ■'■■...'-, Ut:-... 
 
 ^ I 
 
 J? 
 
 i 
 
 .M' 
 
 
 21S 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 explosion of another large magazine. The whole of 
 8eha.sT;opol was in flames ; but nearly half of the burn- 
 ing city was hidden Ijy the impenetrable cloud caused 
 by the exj^losion. The huge line-of-battle-ships which 
 formerly lay like grim floating towers, blocking up the 
 harbour, had been sunk. Nothing of them but the 
 tops of the masts was visible. A few steamers, looking 
 melancholy and isolated in the midst of the general 
 ■wreck, alone remained of the fleet w^hicli had sjiread 
 terror over the Black Sea, and the possession of which 
 had been urged so strongly Ijy the Russian negotiators. 
 ' When we reached the Woronzoff ravine, we met 
 Highlanders bearing out the wounded men found scat- 
 tered over the ground in the neighbourhood of the 
 Redan. By some unaccountable negligence, though it 
 appears that the Redan had been in our possession from 
 midnight, or eleven o'clock on the previous evening, 
 these poor fellows, though exposed the whole night to 
 the cold, had not had any species of refreshment ad- 
 ministered to them. I gave the first three or four I 
 met some l)randy from a small flask I had with me, hut 
 this was soon exhausted, and I thought I could do some 
 good by returning to camp and loading a baggage pony 
 with half-a-dozen bottles of brandy, and taking a couple 
 of servants with water canteens and drinking cuj)s. 
 Sir Edward Colebrooke* approved of my idea; we re- 
 turned together, and on oiu' way back again to the 
 
 * I take the opportiniity which the mention of this geuth*niaii. 
 fts associated with my l)rotht'r in a work of mercy, alfords me, to 
 express tlie gratitude which all my family feel at his generous 
 
A WOKK OF MERCY 
 
 219 
 
 Kedaii, were able to refresh upwards of fifty jiour 
 fellows, some of them in the last stages of faintuess 
 aud exhaustion, with brandy and water. 
 
 * The refreshment was, in all cases, most gratefidly 
 received, with the exception of several too desperate fer 
 any remedy. We emptied four or five bottles in a 
 short time, and I hope did some good. I saw Sir Colin 
 Campljell, who seemed to approve of what I was doing, 
 and told me I was playing the good Samaritan. 
 
 ' »So great had been the neglect of the proper au- 
 thorities, that I actually gave a wounded man some 
 brandy and water, with my own hand, as he lay at the 
 l)ottom of tlie ditch of the Redan on the sp(jt where he 
 had received his wound. I refreshed several p(jor Rus- 
 sians who were found wounded, and who expressed their 
 gratitude in a sort of uncouth joy. They were simple, 
 ignorant-looking fellows, perfectly vh-tuous of aml)ition, 
 — bodies without souls. 
 
 'Tlie salient of the Redan presented a terrible ap- 
 pearance. ' nitside the ditch, and a little to the left of 
 the salient angle, in a small hole, lay the bodies of fifty 
 or sixty English soldiers, thickly piled together. Xear 
 the crest of the counterscarp was an officer with hi-^ 
 band stretched out as if in the act of waving his sword. 
 His features were not distorted, but noble, composed, 
 and manly, though a portion of his head had been 
 carried away by a grape shot. 
 
 f'yinpatliy to us during- our gi'cat aflliction. and tiie kind mention Ik' 
 \\\\^ made of my brother's name in hir» iuterefitiuir Journal, whieli 
 I have had the privilege of reudiuy. — Editou. 
 
(^ 1 
 
 I 
 
 220 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRDIEA 
 
 II' 
 
 
 
 
 ' The ditch near the salient was full of bodies, ga- 
 bions, and debris, lviu<i' in horrible chaos to<>-ether. 
 Inside the Kedan few bodies were to be seen, but a 
 handful of our men having penetrated into the in- 
 terior. At a point, however, more than twenty yards 
 from the salient, I saw the body of a y^ung English 
 officer, and close to him, three or four soldiers lying 
 side by side, or across the bodies of several Russians. 
 The attitudes of the various figures bespoke the energy 
 of their death struggle. There were several Russians 
 wounded sitting or lying on the terreplein of the in- 
 terior, or concealed in the splinter-proof barracks con- 
 structed under the parapets, but 1 did not see many 
 dead bodies. At one of the flanking batteries I saw a 
 deeply impressive spectacle, and from it was enabled to 
 form an idea of the devotion of the Russian artillery- 
 men. 
 
 * On both sides of the guns were the bodies of tlie 
 gunners lying one upon the other, five or six deep. 
 All around were strewn canisters of the grape-shot they 
 had been firing to the very last. The Redan proved a 
 very large work, undefended at the gorge, except by a 
 single infanay trench, but with huge traverses, and a 
 double line of parapet, which would enable the defenders 
 to open a cross fire on the head of any column advanc- 
 ing from the salient-angle (as they actually did on our 
 troops). The width of the work at the gorge facilitated 
 the advance of reinforcements, while it rendered the 
 formation of a lodgment more difficult. The whole 
 interior space was ploughed up by our shot and shell 
 
^ries 1 saw a 
 
 EUSSIAN BARRACKS 
 
 221 
 
 ill the most terrific manner. It was a mere chaos of 
 deep holes, dismomited J4'uns, shattered gal)i(»ns, l»roken 
 iron, and solid shot. It seemed a marvel to us how 
 men could have existed in such a place at all. 
 
 ' The losses of the Kussians from our tire, when their 
 works must have been filled with troops in readiness to 
 repel an assault, must have been tei'rific. A certain 
 garrison, however, tlie defenders could hold safe and 
 sound. We found under the huge piles of parapets 
 and traverses, both in the ]Mahikhoff and the liedau, 
 long splinter-proof barracks, calculated to contain 
 several hundred men, most solidly constructi'il with 
 beams and the masts of shijjs, and perfectly safe from 
 the effects of the heaviest projectiles. Long lines of 
 beds, in double tiers, where the men slept at night, 
 were found in these galleries and l)arracks, covered with 
 coats and clothes, full to overflowing of fleas, and per- 
 fumed *' a hi llusse.'" Soldiers' wooden spoons, 
 fragments of their black bread, innumerable articles of 
 clothing and accoutrements (some nearly new) were 
 scattered about these s])l inter-proofs and the parapets 
 of the work. Huts for the oflicers were also discovered, 
 containing cupboards, empty wine l)ottles, and in some 
 cases, chairs. 
 
 'My faithful domestic (a sapper named ^Miiiiro) who 
 accompanied me, bore oft:' an arm-cliair from the J\cdan 
 in triumph, which afterwards decorated my tent (and 
 in which I now sit as I write this), proljably used by 
 some I-iussian Captain or Colonel. 
 
 ' Walking with Graham and Campbell (whom I met 
 
 li 
 
 i 
 
 ! 
 
"'«4*J'--ii'.,'*irt*^., 
 
 222 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 i .!-■ 
 
 viewing the works) towards the Maliikhofif, I encoun- 
 tered Genernl Simpson, to whom I w^as introduced by 
 Colonel Chapman, as the engineer officer w^ho led the 
 ladder party. The General said he had heard of me, 
 and that I was a fortunate fellow to have escaped. I 
 looked upon our rencontre with some satisfaction, as 
 I considered my heing thus prominently brought under 
 the notice of the Commander-in-Chief might increase 
 my chance of being mentioned in despatches. Colonel 
 Chapman told nie to direct any Royal Engineer officers 
 I met to come back to camp as soon as they could, as 
 their services woidd probably be required. We had ail 
 of us visions of various duties and occupations before 
 us. Surveys, plans of the Russian works, itc, demoli- 
 tion of forts and docks, and perhaps the construction 
 of fresh batteries to silence those of the Russians on 
 the Xorth shore. However, the great consolation — the 
 inexpressil)le relief — of the termination of " duty in the 
 trenches" had come, and other fatigues and dangers 
 seemed child's play to this great all-absorbing service. 
 I walked with ]\Iajor Campbell and Lieutenant Graham 
 almost as far as the larsj:'e white buildiniis behind the 
 Redan, perforated in all parts, and a scene of desolation 
 and ruin from our batteries. The wliole of the civil 
 portion of the city w^as still in a blaze ; and as it was 
 (juite uncertain where the Russians might have secreted 
 their mines, or what fjrt or buildings thev mio-ht intend 
 to blow up, it was by no means j^rudent to venture far 
 into the town. We had no time to look at the ]Malak- 
 
 ■' '^ ; I 
 
 '■1. I 
 
SEBASTOrOL 
 
 223 
 
 lioiT, and, in fact, were rather hungry, having liad only 
 a sort of military snatch before starting fortli on our 
 rambles. 
 
 * The Church service, performed under our rough 
 taipaulin roof, was very impressive to-day, tliough it 
 was difficult to abstract one's thou^dits from the stirring 
 events which had taken place. 
 
 'Sept. lOfh. — I rode down with Anderson to visit 
 the ruins of the still burning citv. We were en;ibled 
 to traverse the military portion of the town without 
 molestation. We foimd the ma<»-nificent ransjes of 
 white barracks and public buildings all more or less 
 injured; the barracks near the Redan perforated in all 
 directions l)y cannon shot, or torn and smashed by 
 shells; a number of smaller buildings, jjrobably the 
 poorer suburbs, literally a mere heap of ruins. The 
 requirements of the vast defensive works were mani- 
 fested by the gutting and dismantling of several fine 
 ranges of barracks, solely for the purpose of obtaining 
 materials from them for powder magazines, splinter- 
 proofs, and platforms. While endeavouring to force 
 our way througli the civil portion of the town, occupied 
 by the French, we encountered General Pelissier and a 
 large staff, and uere warned by one of the Generals on 
 the staff not to advance furtlier, Ijecause an explosion 
 was expected to take place in the town. We accord- 
 ingly turned back, and reached the ]Ma1akhoff, on our 
 way home, about the same time as the Frencli General. 
 He is a small, very active loijking man. He jumped off 
 
11 ' 
 
 224 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ■;! 
 
 i . in 
 I 10 
 
 his horse, and ran clown into one of the ditches of the 
 ]Malakhoff with the vivacity of a schoolboy.* 
 
 ' The ]\Iahikhoff presented a ghastly spectacle, dead 
 lying everywhere in it and near it ; Eussians evidently 
 shot while running away, and Zouaves killed whilst in 
 the ardour of pursuit; noble-looking fellows lying dead 
 on the escarps and the embrasures, all along the ditch 
 leading from the ^Nlalakhoti' to the Little Redan ; bodies 
 in every attitude, with faces little distorted, but rather 
 ennobled by death. Many of the dead had been col- 
 lected and buried, l3ut there were at least a thousand 
 or fifteen hundred lying about in all directions, filling 
 the ditches, or collected together for interment. I 
 fancied I should never have been able to look on the 
 dead on a battle-field ; however, as my three weeks of 
 warfare, from the battle of Tchernaya to the grand 
 assaidt, has been nothing but bloodshed and death, I 
 am now familiarized with the spectacle. 
 
 ' Wliile urging on the men to the assault of the 
 Redan, I stood in the midst of the dead and dying, and 
 poor fellows in every state of suffering lay around. It 
 was a scene of such horror, that I have hardly yet 
 recovered from the shock. The French say we fought 
 well at the Redan, and that if we had succeeded iu 
 gaining possession of it, we could not have held it, as 
 it is quite open and very wide at the gorge, and the 
 Russians could consequently bring up heavy masses of 
 
 * It was probably General Bosquet my brother saw ou thi? 
 occasion. — Editok. 
 
 i' ?M 
 
GREAT STRENGTH OF THE REDAN 
 
 O-T, 
 
 tches of the 
 
 * 
 
 ctacle, dead 
 lis evidently 
 [id whilst in 
 rs lyinj^ dead 
 ng the diteli 
 edan ; bodies 
 1, but rather 
 ad been col- 
 it a thousand 
 ctions, filling 
 interment. I 
 ) look on the 
 hree weeks of 
 to the grand 
 and death, I 
 
 Lssault of the 
 
 nd dying, and 
 y around. It 
 ^e hardly yet 
 
 [say we fonght 
 succeeded iu 
 
 lave held it, as 
 ^orfre, and the 
 ?avv masses ot 
 
 ther saw ou thi? 
 
 men to envelope, and crush our straggling cohnnn (»f 
 assault, already torn and disordered by a terrific flank 
 fire of grape on their advance. Instead, therefore, of 
 our useless and bloody assault, we should, in my 
 opinion, have done much better had we sent two or 
 three regiments to assist the French in holdino- the 
 Malaklioff, and when they liad gained a decided footing, 
 and beenenabledto turn some of tlieiiuns in the ]N[alak- 
 hoff to sweep the gorge of the Kedan, made our assault 
 on that work, which being isolated and shut to reinforce- 
 ments, nuist have succumbed to a vigorous and spirited 
 attack. This is the more certain, as, even as it was, 
 had onr Generals employed their reserves pr(jperly, 
 we should, iu my opinion, have carried the work and 
 held it. 
 
 *The Kedan is, in a military point of view, much 
 stronger than the ]Malakhoff ; the latter, from its com- 
 iiianding position, is a very imposing hooking work, but 
 to our surprise, we found it very badh', if at all, flanked; 
 whereas the Redan is flanked by an indented Hue 
 mounting half-a-dozen or more heavy guns ou one 
 face, and on the others by batteries in a ravine, very 
 difficult of access to our projectiles. ]]y far the 
 strongest work of the whole is the Flagstaff Batter}-, 
 covering the civil portion of the town ; the defences 
 here are very well contrived, and so formidable that I 
 might safely stake my existence that no troops in the 
 world could carry them if only tolerably defended. 
 The Flagstaff is in itself a Kedan, with a broad deep 
 ditch with palisades and military jjits in it; beyond the 
 
 Q 
 
I A 
 
 226 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRDIEA 
 
 i 
 
 U !• 
 
 ii^ 
 
 I:' 
 
 I I 
 
 counterscarp of the salient is a small l)attory of •^•iins; 
 and mortars, s\ve('])ing the approach and iirini,' into our 
 lines, which it sees into most unpleasantly. Behind 
 the Uedan an; two or thi'ee other strong lines of cii- 
 trenchments niountinL;- the heaviest guns, and wlicn all 
 these are passed you suddenly come upon a hattery 
 swee[)ing the approach to the town, and placed on ;i 
 risin<; knoll in front of some l)uil(Ungs very difficult 
 to carry l)y assault ; this })osition is, therefore, im- 
 pregnable, and it is extremely fortunate for us that it 
 was iwt the key of the whole. 
 
 * The extent of the French siege works is enormous, 
 I suppose that altogether tiiere must he thirty or forty 
 miles of trenches and zigzags in front of Sebastopol. 
 
 'The liussians possessed inunense advantages over us 
 in having all the stores of the dockyard avaikable aud 
 close at hand, and all the heavy guns and amnuniitir»n 
 from their ships and arsenal, while we had to drag- 
 everything over miles of morass and mud, and do all 
 our military work idso with a mere handful of nien. 
 The interior of all the Russian works is tremendously 
 ploughed up by our shot and shell, but all the parapets 
 for purposes of defence are sound and good ; we may 
 look upon our success as a marvel. It is no disgrace to 
 the Russians, no array could have fought better or 
 defended itself with more unflinchinfj courage and 
 skill. An officer of artillery tells me that his battery 
 fired right into dense cohnnns of Russian troops, 
 advancing" to drive the French out of the ]Malaklietf. 
 and he could clearly see the effects of its shot, wlioK' 
 
ENTRY INTO SEHASTOl'oL 
 
 987 
 
 :ory <>t" g'uiis 
 I'inj^' ii\to our 
 tly. lU'hiiul 
 
 lines of cu- 
 and wlicii all 
 oil a ))attc'ry 
 
 |)l:ie('(l tin a 
 very difficult 
 lieri'forc, im- 
 for us that it 
 
 ; is enormous, 
 thirty or forty 
 5ebastopol. 
 ntao-es over us 
 i available ami 
 (1 aniiniuiition 
 had to drag 
 ud, and do all 
 ndful of men. 
 tremendously 
 11 tlie parapets 
 good; we may 
 no disgrace to 
 Li<dit better or 
 f courage ami 
 hat his Ijattery 
 Uissian troops, 
 the Malakhntf. 
 its shot, ^vholl• 
 
 ranks were ploughed up by if, l)ut theeolunui reniain<'(l 
 as steady and firm as if not a single sliot was being 
 fired into it. 
 
 ' liotii armies, it is uiuiecessary to say, liave a great 
 respect for their (»pponents. Tiie day after the assault, 
 .')(),()()() fresh troops march(Ml into Sehastopol ; their 
 arrival thus late must be regarded as another happy 
 accident, or rather interposition of Providence, as their 
 presence on the preceding day might liave turned tiie 
 scale ai^ainst us. 
 
 'The French have undertaken the police of the 
 town, and the streets are lined by their pickets. The 
 churches (none of which have been destroyed by the 
 Ixussians) are used as guard-rooms, with a few other 
 buildings which ])reserve the semblaiu^e of a roof, and 
 our brave allies may be seen chatting together in 
 lively groups over their rations and "vin ordinaire," 
 with their arms piled and glittering in the sun in front 
 of them. I rode yesterday through all the French 
 portion of the town ; we have the military side, and 
 come in for huge barracks, hospitals, SiC, most of them 
 (lihipidated, but of vast size and admirably built; these 
 may perhaps be fitted for the reception of a Division 
 of the Army during the winter. 
 
 ' The liarbour is the most lamentable spectacle of 
 desolation I ever witnessed, completely choked and 
 filled with wrecks and the masts of sunken vessels. 
 
r y 
 
 838 
 
 CANADA AM) THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 < 
 
 
 CHAPTEli XIII. 
 
 INSIDE SEBASTOrOL. 
 
 I 
 
 THOUGHT I had sceu sufficient liorrors on the 8tli 
 and tlie (.'iisuiiit,^(lay; l)ut on the morning of tlic lOtli. 
 I witnessed a spectacle more terril)Ie than any f had 
 yet witnessed. About a thousand or more poor wounded 
 Russian soldiers and officers were found in a large 
 ]tuihlin2 near the ruins of Fort Paul, on the mornins; 
 i>f the 10th. Tiiey had passed nearly two days in agony 
 and misery, without food or any assistance. ]Many dead 
 were there, and the stench in the vast charnel-house of 
 horror so dreadful, that it is a marvel how any had sup- 
 ported existence. It is a stain on the humanity of tlie 
 Russians that they coidd thus leave these poor wretches 
 to their fate without even indicating where they Averc, 
 A flag over the l)uilding, or even a surgeon or officer 
 with a flag of truce left behind to explain and direct 
 our attention to the Hospital, W(udd have been suffi- 
 cient. A flag of truce was, I believe, sent over from 
 the North shore on the morning of the 10th, and some 
 Russian officers selected from amongst the mass of poor 
 sufferers those whom they thought the most likely to 
 
 ,4 
 
( • 
 
 SrFFEKINGS OF THE SOLDIRUS 
 
 223 
 
 recover t'roiii tlicir wounds, and t'a[);il)le ot' iK-inj,' aj^'aiii 
 rendered lit for service. Ail tlie Imd eases I iienrd were 
 left to tho Knirlish and Fre'neii surifeons. Tliev had 
 enoiij,di oil tlieir liand.v •■*y. it was, tliouL;'li they of course 
 undertook their ])ainful task as well as they could. 
 
 *ThiH lon^' siejj^e, — the dreary drudj^ery of French 
 duty, — the constant spectacle of death, and wounds 
 unacconipanic'd by excitement, — the losses of our old 
 soldiers, uud the fresh draui;-lits of yuunj^' recruits that 
 have been sent out, liave all contril)uted to depress nnd 
 demoralise our army; who can wonder at it ? .Alarch- 
 ing down for periotls of twenty-four sometimes thirty- 
 six hours to<;'etlier, exposed in a ditch to lie killed as 
 they slept or while at work, tired and dispirited as tliey 
 wended their Aveary way back to the camp : they must 
 have hard hearts indeed, who cannot make some allow- 
 ance for men thus sorely tried. No one can ima«^ine 
 what the work has been ; even I though out so short a 
 time, felt a gnawing anxiety eating into my miu'l. I 
 was very much exposed on duty, and I never could feel 
 any confidence when I went down for a night in the 
 trenches that I should return. Our army I feel sure 
 will recover by a campaign in the field, which is nuicli 
 more congenial with the feelings of the soldiers, and 
 lias much that is animating and inspiring about it. 
 
 ' The native strength of the Russian soldier's con- 
 stitution was demonstrated in several instances. I saw 
 a poor fellow sitting on the steps of the Hospital, who 
 Lad probably passed nearly forty-eight hours without 
 sustenance, supporting the stump of one of his legs, the 
 
I' 
 
 I i 
 
 230 
 
 CANADA AND THE CTiniEA 
 
 ',•■ I 
 
 C 
 
 t 
 
 lower part of wliieli must eitlicr liavo been sliot away 
 or amputated. Tlie man did not look very faint or ill, 
 and bore his sufferinLTs without a OToan. Above this 
 scene of misery was a store, full of Russian miiforms, 
 helmets, &c. I obtained a few trifles as trophies. The 
 harbour and dockyard creek near this hos])ital were 
 strewn w^ith ft\ai>ments of wrecked ships, and a s^nall 
 steamer partially burnt and submerged was washed by 
 the swell almost against the quay walls. The Kiissians 
 appeared to be very loth to burn the VJadlmlr (their 
 pet steamer). 
 
 * One of the subalterns of my company w^as ordered 
 down with a detachment of sailors to build a battery on 
 the coast, the night after the attack, for the purpose of 
 sinking her. The jack tars were .•ou:'ed to the highest 
 pitch of enthusiasm, and w^orked like demons. The 
 steamer moved up within a hundred yards or so of 
 them, and took a melancholy glance at their prepara- 
 tions. In front of her w^as the whole Eno'lish fleet. 
 Escape seemed impossible, and the final step of burn- 
 ing the vessel was at length (to the great anger and dis- 
 gust of our sailors) resorted to. When she came close 
 up, they proposed to suspend work, and sink her with a 
 field gun. 
 
 ' Fort Paul, standing at the end of a split of land, 
 running out into the harliour, and probably not more 
 than seven hundred or eight hundred yards from the 
 nearest Russian batteries on the opposite shore, was a 
 shapeless moimd of ruin ; its demolition had been per- 
 fect. Fort Nicholas had been partially burned, but the 
 
STREETS IN SEBASTOrOL 
 
 2.")1 
 
 sliot away 
 faint or ill, 
 Al>(>v(' tlii^; 
 1 uniforms, 
 )hios. The 
 (S])ital were 
 lud a small 
 ; washed by 
 he Kussians 
 Ibnir (their 
 
 was (^'dered 
 a hattery on 
 e purpose of 
 3 the highest 
 ■mons. The 
 rds or so of 
 leir prepara- 
 ilnglish fleet, 
 jtep of burn- 
 nc:cr mid dis- 
 le came close 
 :ik her with a 
 
 split of land, 
 ,bly not more 
 irds from the 
 i shore, was n 
 had been per- 
 irned, but the 
 
 sea bomb-proof wall was still uninjured, and the embra- 
 sures for upwards of l.jO guns were as intact and solid 
 as ever. The enemy's arrangements for blowing up 
 this fort nuist liave failed. Possibly the wires connect 
 ing the mines with galvanic batteries on the opposite 
 shore, were broken, by coming in collision with the 
 wrecks f»f suidcen vessels, or some tind)er or larixe float- 
 ing body may have driven a^'ainst them bv the heavy 
 sea which was runninf' during the whole of the 8th. 
 The walls of P'ort Alexander also stand very \\ell, 
 though the enemy managed to explode the mines in- 
 tended, without doubt, fin* tlieir destruction. 
 
 ' I visited the French portion of tlie town a few days 
 after the place was tako.'ii, in conijiany with Lieut, (ira- 
 liani, K.K. We were neither of us provid(^d with the 
 re(|uisite papers for the French trenches, and the whole 
 of the main street of the civil portiou of the city, oc- 
 cupied by our gallant allies, glistened with the bayonets 
 of their pickets. Yet, nevertheless, through the igno- 
 rance and vanity of a little French sentry, who mistook 
 our English "permit" for a correct document, we man- 
 aged to obtain an entrance into the ruined streets. 
 
 'Sebastopol is finely situated, and laid out in broad 
 spacious streets. Some of the houses, though n(jw 
 nothing; in o-eneral remained of them but blackened 
 disfigured walls, must have been very handsome and 
 elegant. The club house and several cluu'ches remained 
 nearly intact. The principal church had been already 
 converted into a French guard-room. We looked with 
 the deepest interest at the remains of the famous city, 
 

 , J 
 
 232 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ■ I 
 
 M i. 
 
 ,_'Si 
 
 aDfl Doted oven within its streets preparutions for ob- 
 stinate and desperate defence. There were barricades 
 at intervals down the streets, and fire-arms and gun- 
 powder we learnt had been found in many houses. 
 What the final strui^-rjle mi<4ht have been, liad not God 
 in his infinite mercy permitted onr surprise to succeed, it 
 is almost too terrible to picture. All the scenes of blood 
 here enacted woidd hiive shone feebly by the side of it. 
 We rode to P\)rt Nicholas, close to wliicli is a large open 
 space, used l)y tlie Russians during the siege as a market- 
 place. It was almost the only part of the city out of 
 reach of our shot and shell. A naval officer on board 
 one of the ships of the fleet told me, it was always 
 densely crowded, and that large military parties were 
 constantly emplo3'ed there, making gabions, &c. From 
 Fort Nicholas the Russians coidd be seen very plainly 
 walking about, with apparent nnconcern, on the oppo- 
 site shore, or on the tops of the parapets of their re- 
 doubts. From this point their works on the North side 
 had a most formidable appearance, battery after battery 
 rising tier above tier, seemed ready at a given signal to 
 lay the remains of the devoted city into ashes, and to 
 render the whole iminhabitable to the victors. Graham 
 and I dismounted from oiir horses (as we did not wish 
 to tempt a Russian rifleman by being too conspicuous), 
 and leaving them in charge of a French semry, ad- 
 vanced in front of the fort and close to the water. The 
 masts of the Twelve Apostles and other line-of-l)attle- 
 ships, were almost within a stone's throw of the spot 
 where we stood. With a telescope, I could almost dis- 
 
 'i*. 
 
 r 
 
BEST AFTER THE STORM 
 
 233 
 
 ions for ob- 
 3 barricades 
 s and gun- 
 any lionses. 
 lad not God 
 
 succeed, it 
 nes of blood 
 16 side of it. 
 a large open 
 as a rnarket- 
 e city out of 
 2er on board 
 
 was always 
 parties were 
 , &c. From 
 very plainly 
 :>\\ the oppo- 
 
 of their re- 
 e North side 
 after battery 
 ven siirnal to 
 ashes, and to 
 rs. Graham 
 did not wish 
 conspicuous), 
 
 1 seniry, ad- 
 water. The 
 
 ine-of-l)attle- 
 V of the spot 
 [1 almost dis- 
 
 
 cern the features, whilst I was enabled clearly to watch 
 the movements of Ivussian working parties, pursuing 
 their avocations as quietly and unconcernedly as if 
 nothing Jiad happened. Groups of two or tliree might 
 be observed here and there standing; lookin«r at their lost 
 city, and watching a few stragglers who, like ourselves, 
 had reached the opposite coast. As if by mutual consent, 
 hostilities seemed lo have been suspended. J^otli armies 
 weary with iighting, were taking a kind of holiday. 
 We found that the French portion of the town w^as very 
 strictly guarded, and saw noljody but sentries, a few 
 French officers, and some of the English staff, who had 
 doubtless with some trouble obtained permission to 
 enter the place from the French liead-cpiarters. We 
 therefore considered ourselves fortunate in havinq; ob- 
 tained this early view, and rather congratulated (our- 
 selves on our successful impudence. 
 
 'The English are not allowed to enter the tow^n, a 
 cordon of cavalry being drawn up to prevent it. The 
 French have it all to themselves. There can be few of 
 the excesses, which generally attend a successful assault, 
 perpetrated. Almost all the valuables are either burnt 
 or removed ; and the inhaljitants, with very few excep- 
 tions, have quitted the devoted city. 
 
 * The Russians are now in the forts on the North 
 shore, and in a large entrenched camp close to the 
 harbour. They wdll probably open fire upon us soon. 
 Last night was a disagreeable one in camp ; the wind 
 blew with great violence, accompanied with clouds oi' 
 dust, which soon filled the tents and reduced every- 
 

 V. 
 
 2.14 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 
 ,'v 
 
 • 
 
 
 '1 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 ■^ 
 
 
 f 
 
 11 
 
 t 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 , 
 
 ij 
 
 
 ! % 
 
 
 i II 
 
 
 tliiii^,^ to an iiniforni dral). Tlie tent viljratcd to and fro. 
 and r expected my pole every ifionient to l)reak and the 
 tent to come down on my head. I made dispositions 
 to meet these events l)y partially dressing, and placing 
 stools, iSic. on high points, to prevent the tent lialf 
 smothering me hy receiving it when it fell. 
 
 ' The wind was soon followed by a thnnder-storm 
 accompanied hy very heavy rain ; this lulled the wind 
 and I got to sleep. 
 
 * This morning our parade ground is covered with the 
 most adhesive clay I ever encountered, and the rain 
 pours on ; ho^vever, these are but small matters now that 
 Sebastopol is ours. The city is now like a great charnel- 
 house. I met to-day strings of waggons fdled with the 
 Russian dead almost in a state of putrefaction. They 
 say that to-day 100 Russian officers were found lying 
 dead in a large room all together ; they had probably 
 perished from want of food and attendance after their 
 wounds. The Russian army fought with desperate 
 courage. A French officer told Nicholson to-day, that 
 after the French had carried the ]Malakhoff, a Russian 
 officer and forty men in a pit near the centre, refused to 
 surrender, and fought till nearly all were killed. 
 
 ' We do not know the precise loss on both sides. All 
 we know for certain is, that it is enormous. What the 
 Russians can possibly gain by prolonging the struggle 
 no one knows : the Crimea is filled with their sick and 
 wounded. I observed them again to-day on the North 
 shore, apparently getting timber from the wrecks of 
 their vessels. 
 
RUSSIAN WORKS 
 
 2;i5 
 
 ' Tlic jjcneral eliaracteristic of all tlio Iviissiaii work^ 
 was their extreme streiij^th and solidity. They seem 
 the works of giants. It is impossible not to l)e asion- 
 islied at the vastness of the undertnkiiiL;", or to avoid 
 conjuring up the hosts who must Jiave toiled day and 
 nis^dit to carry it out. A great (h'-'d of the vast labour 
 expended was, liowever, unnecessary, in a military point 
 of view, and even defeated its own oliject. Tlie gigantic 
 traverses witli wliieh most of tlie principal works were 
 covered, and the splinter-proof barracks under them, 
 in which garrisons might remain safe from shot and 
 shell, both jH'oved detrimental to the d(>fenders when 
 the assault was given. Tlu; traverses formed ])ara])ets, 
 equally for the attacking as for the defending troops, 
 and the splinter-proof barracks, prisons, from whence 
 their tenants were effectually debarred emerging by a 
 few opponents. The necessity of both, however, ap])ears 
 obvious when the interior of the works is exandned. 
 The terre-plein of the Kednn is a sea of crater and 
 debris. The enemy had formed a slight covered com- 
 inunication between it and the barracks in the rear, 
 along which relief might pass comparatively, though by 
 no means, effectually, sheltered from our fire. The 
 whole of the ground near the salient of this worJc, so 
 especially and so long the object of the Englisli attack, 
 was covered with half-buried disabled guns, whose 
 muzzles, or breeches protruded grimly and moui-n fully 
 in the midst of the chaos of holes, fragments of shells, 
 and debris of gabions. 
 
 'The ]Malakhofif, in my opinion, would never have 
 
 
, ' r - 
 I. ,r 
 
 :i| 
 
 : SI 
 
 ■ill 
 
 236 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 been taken except by surprise, — once surprised, the 
 holding of it was a matter of no great difficulty, tliough, 
 of course, accompanied by rather heavy loss. Tliough 
 the key of the whole line of works, it was on this 
 .•iccount, one of the weakest. It possesses also but little 
 saliency beyond the general contour, and is most im- 
 perfectly flanked. Most happily for us, the Eussians 
 had been led to adopt the form indicated by the primary 
 round tower, merely at first l)uil(ling an earthen parapet 
 around it ; happily too, they liad been led to neglect it 
 till the latter portion of the siege, on account of the 
 projection of the salient portion of the ]Mamelon, which 
 effectually commanded all the approaches of the Allies. 
 Had they constructed a second bastion du m.lt, re- 
 trenched only half as strongly as the original, our hopes 
 of taking Sebastopol by an assault would have vanished, 
 or must have been luiderta^-en against another part of 
 the defences. It was painful to reflect on the small 
 part the English army had taken in the great assault, 
 and how that small part had been marred. I still 
 think our fellows would fight better than any others in 
 a fair field, and under a good general, who kept his 
 recruits away from vital positions. 
 
 ' I had charge of the water- works for the supply of the 
 army after the siege was over, taking it from Elphin- 
 stone, who had been wounded severely in the trenches 
 by a stone, knocked out of the parapet by a round shot. 
 My labours were not arduous, and 1 had time f<5r little 
 trips into the coimtry to explore the scenery, and get a 
 few ideas respecting the position of the various corps 
 
 I i m 
 
•prised, the 
 Ity, tlnnigh, 
 s. Tlumffli 
 ,-as on this 
 so but little 
 is most ini- 
 he I-iussi.ans 
 the primary 
 lien parapet 
 :o neglect it 
 ount <jf the 
 lelon, which 
 f the Allies. 
 in mat, ra- 
 il, our hopes 
 ,ve vanished, 
 itlier i)art of 
 »n the small 
 reat assault, 
 red. I still 
 my others in 
 dio kept his 
 
 supply of the 
 'rom Elphin- 
 
 the trenches 
 I roimd shot. 
 ime for little 
 ry, and get a 
 
 arious corps 
 
 
 JIICIlAEL^rAS DAY 237 
 
 (Varmee. One of my expeditions proved a very interest- 
 ing and exciting one. Our party was arranged several 
 days before our start, and consisted of Captain Nicholson, 
 Lieutenant Edwards, and myself (all K.E. officers) ; 
 Major Campbell, 4Gth Regiment, and .Air. Smith (an 
 uncle of Nicholson's, staying in the camp on a visit). I 
 had been on duty, commencing a battery near the ruins 
 of Fort Paid, (Mi the previous evening, and liad not gone 
 to bed till nearly three in the morning. It had been 
 arranged that a cart, with provisions and blankets, 
 should be sent in front of us to Haidar (seventeen 
 miles\ there to await our arrival. I was so freijuently 
 awoke during my very short night by per[)etnal dis- 
 turbances, noises of bugles, c^c, that I felt <[uite 
 uurefreshed, and thougli the rest of my ])arty h'ft at 
 a quarter to eight, I delayed my departure until nearly 
 two hours after. The day (Michaelmas Day) was most 
 lovely, and the pass beyond Kamara looked perfection ; 
 I had never, on any other occasion, been more than a 
 few miles ])eyond the Sardinian camp, so that soon all 
 became new to me. The Woronzoff road (which we fol- 
 lowed in the main through all its twistings and windings) 
 led through rocky, w^ooded ravines, skirting and edging- 
 spurs of rock, which jutted like so many capes or })ro- 
 montories into the deep valky below. Emerging from 
 this romantic and beautiful pass, tinted with the hues of 
 autumn, and showing all the varied and striking effects 
 of light and shade in strong contrast, the road enters 
 the valley of Baidar, a sweet little vale, enclosed by 
 green slopuig and wooded banks, whilst in the dis- 
 
238 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ■ I- 
 
 1 • I 
 
 
 I t 
 
 tarice, to tlie East, rise ruj4'<>'e(l mountain peaks and 
 lofty siinimits of hills, redeeming tlio landscape from 
 tameness, and serving, as it were, as a setting to its 
 gem-like riclmess. Peroski's villa, a small rather fan- 
 tastically-! )uilt chateau, with a white tower surmounted 
 by a green cupola, standing out very conspicuously, and 
 situated a few yards to the right of the road, al)out a iinle 
 from Baidar, was the point which, on a previous occa- 
 sion, had been selected as a reiidezv(ms,and I accordingly 
 hoped, wiien after a long sharp canter I approached 
 it, that I .sh(juld find my party engaged in a rustic 
 '^' dfjedner a la fuurcltdte'' on the green sward, under 
 the trees surrounding the house. A French guard 
 proved the sole occupant, and the sentry informed me 
 as I rode up that it was " tUfemlit " to enter ; however, 
 on incpuring, I learnt that my party had ])een there 
 only ten minutes before, and riding on at a rapid trot, 
 I soon sighted them, traversing in a line a grec^n plain 
 that bordered the road. We found our cart at Baidar, 
 where we arrived at noon. Baidar had not been very 
 long in the occupiition of the P'rench. 
 
 ' After the fall of Sebastopol, they pushed forward 
 their advanced posts wdierever they coidd, and the Kus- 
 sians retreated before them. We found the streets of 
 this quaint, picturesque little Tartar village crowded 
 with '■'- Franca 18^'' buying meat, onions, and bread, or 
 chatting together in groups. A regiment of Chasseurs 
 d'Afrique is now encamped in the place, whilst con- 
 spicuous on a neighljouring hill-side, to the rear, may 
 be seen the white tents of the Turks. We lunched, 
 
THE PASS OF rnOROS 
 
 239 
 
 1 peaks and 
 (1 scape from 
 ettiiijjj t(» its 
 I ratlitv fan- 
 siinnounted 
 icuouslv, and 
 .about a milt' 
 •evious oeca- 
 I accordingly 
 [ appr<)aclie(i. 
 1 ill a rustic 
 sward, under 
 'rench guard 
 informed me 
 :er ; however, 
 [ been there 
 , a rapid trot, 
 a green plain 
 irt at Baidar, 
 .ot been very 
 
 shed forward 
 and the llus- 
 tlie streets of 
 la<)-e crowded 
 ind bread, or 
 of Chasseurs 
 e, whilst con- 
 the rear, may 
 We lunched, 
 
 seating on the grass, near the watering-place at 1 Gaidar, 
 and fed our horses. Our road, after leaving Baidai', 
 wound up a hill, at the top of wliich we found a regular 
 masonry arch and a French guard of \20 men; this was 
 the entrance of tlie pass of IMioros, which tlu' French 
 had taken possession of. Tiie archway, with very little 
 difficulty, could be strengtlu^ned in such a manner as 
 completel} to close the road against the advance of an 
 army, however formidable. It is situated on a most 
 commanding point, overlooking the road for more lliau 
 a mile, and the nature of the ground (composed prin- 
 cipally of gigantic landslips) is such as to necessitate a 
 most tortuous and winding route, and several apparently 
 retrograde movements in the advance from one point to 
 the other. At the archway the scene burst upon us in 
 all its grandeur ; we rode along admiring more and more, 
 as we advanced, the loveliness to which it had served as 
 a portal, and to which we had so suddenly been intro- 
 duced. 
 
 ' To our left was a continuous lofty precipice — varying 
 only occasionally in height and ruggedne^ss — towering 
 proudly into the clear blue sk}^, its edge defined with 
 beautiful distinctness and delicacy against the chai-ming 
 background. Trees and shru])S, here and there instinc- 
 tively^ rooting themselves in the small patches of earth, 
 niggardly sprinkled over the harsh barren rocks, shot 
 up fresh, green, and beautiful, on its sond)re sides. At 
 the foot of this vast rampart of cliffs were masses of 
 rocks tossed confusedly alxmt, as if by some Titan 
 hands ; here and there standing bold!}' out, but gene- 
 
240 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMKA 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 ; I 
 i ( 
 
 t) 
 
 
 'I ! 
 
 ;l! 
 
 
 in 
 1 1 
 
 111 
 
 r.illy imlx'flded in eartli, and ludf hidden ])y the folia^fc 
 of the trees springinijc up from tlieir restin^^-pluces. The 
 road wound ahniLT the l)ase of tliis wihl and heautifiil 
 chaoH. lUdow it was a scene somewhat similar— a series 
 of gi'^antie landslips jutting out into the sea ; but below, 
 earth and vegetation predominated over rock and bar- 
 renness. A little Tartar village, close to the sea, soon 
 greeted our eyes. It consisted merely of a few little 
 white houses, >Nith red tile roofs. Just opposite it, and 
 not half a mile from shore, lay a French man-of-war 
 steamer at anchor, and at a short distance beyond, u 
 second steaming slowly up. They were stationed at this 
 point to guard and observe the pass. 
 
 ' We expected to have met with some diflPiculty in 
 getting through the French advanced posts, as a per- 
 mission in writing from the French head-([uarters was 
 generally demanded. We, however, fortiuiately found 
 a very complaisant young Frenchman on duty, who, 
 after a few explanations, permitted us to proceed. I 
 offered him my "Illustrated" to look at (happily con- 
 taining a picture of General Bosquet on the first page)., 
 and left it with him to peruse till our return. We were 
 warned by him not to proceed along the road beyond 
 the most advanced French posts, which he stated to be 
 "two hours" in front of us (in the phraseology of the 
 country two leagues). We rode on and on, however, 
 more and more charmed and delighted with the scenerv 
 as we advanced, and looking right and left of us for tlie 
 red troAvsers of a Frenchman ; none were visible, yet 
 still we proceeded till, towards evening, we reached a 
 
OUT OF IJOrNDS 
 
 341 
 
 places. Tlie 
 \{\ bt'iuitit'ul 
 lar — «a series 
 ; but below, 
 ck and bar- 
 he sea, soou 
 a few little 
 )osite it, and 
 man-of-war 
 te beyond, a 
 :ioned at this 
 
 difficulty in 
 its, as a per- 
 kpiarters was 
 mately found 
 duty, who, 
 proceed. I 
 happily con- 
 first page), 
 rn. We were 
 road beyond 
 stated to he 
 leology of the 
 on, however, 
 h the scenery 
 of us for the 
 ! visible, yet 
 we reached a 
 
 le 
 
 small road-side chateau, which appeared (di^dblo as a 
 restiii'4-]daee for the nii^'ht. it w;is in a half-pillau't'd 
 stat", with lirokeu windows, and Hotrs strewn with tin' 
 debris of chairs, and tables. Tiiere w.is a t(deral)le stabh' 
 for the horses, who were soon tied up and diseussinL;- 
 their well-earned eveuini;' meal. I busied myself in 
 liijlitinLT fires, ])uttinLf larL,^e drawers collected from a 
 war(lrol)e in requisition as chairs. We found a ca|)ital 
 round table ready for our use, and a deal planic on a 
 stand foruu'd an excellent side-board. Nicholson and 
 Campbell, rather mistrUntiuL,^ the security of our retreat, 
 rode on for a fcnv miles t(> recoimoitre. 
 
 'Thev reported on their ]-etui'U that thev had dis- 
 
 covered nothiufjf. Our dinner consisted of a, kind of 
 
 nondescript stew, made of slices of mutton inunersed, 
 
 with pieces of onion, pressed vegetables, and a small 
 
 tin of essence of beef, in water, and cooked in a camp 
 
 fryin<;'-|)an. Some potatoes were set to boil on a fire 
 
 made of broken furniture. Whilst dinini^^ we held a 
 
 council of war as to our movements; to stay or run 
 
 away, that was the question. We felt lialf convinced 
 
 that we must be beyond the French advanced ])()Sts. 
 
 We had seen no wag^'ons of the '' efjHijxn/r.^ 1,1!!'- 
 
 taires,''^ (the constant attendants of the French army,) 
 
 or even nudes carrying provisions or fodder. We were 
 
 at least twelve miles beyond IJaidar. If, too, any of 
 
 the Tart;u- inhabitants of tlie houses which we liad 
 
 passed on the road, actuated by the hopes of u reward, 
 
 should inform the Cossacks of our whereabouts, whiit 
 
 could we do ? As for four or five of us resistinii: a larue 
 
 
 n 
 
243 
 
 CANADA AM) TIIi: ( HIMKA 
 
 1;?' 
 
 tH 
 
 i 'J 
 
 i '% 
 
 I! I 
 
 i. ;■ 
 
 iiriiird party ''f cMV.'iiiT, (»r iti;ikiii,n' ^^ood our retreat, 
 wlicii pressed by tlieiii, (m oiir jiided horses, tlie idea 
 (to me ;if le.'ist) a|>peiired prep<)>ter()Us. Siipposini,' we 
 wei'e siii'roiuided. and made prisoners Ity tiie Iiiissians, 
 wiiat should we liave to say iu our (h-teiicf wiieii we 
 returned to Kn:L,da,iid, it" we ever j^'ot hack? We siiouhl 
 proliahly all h)S(; our eommissions. On the othrr liaiid, 
 it was jjh'aded tliat, if we reaJly weiv too much " out of 
 hounds," we were so uniiiti'iitioiially ; tluit wo liad l)eeii 
 mish'd l»y the ofTieer commandini,' at IMioros. If we 
 sliowed U(» lii;ht towards the road, the clianees wore, 
 tliat recoiinoiti'in^* parties of the enomy miLT'it oven 
 pass dose by witlioiit diseoveriiif; us, and Hrially, tliiii 
 seven Eiiuflislnnou could satisfactorily tlirash at lea.st 
 double the niniibor of Cossacks. Our liorsos wore tired, 
 and wo had made all our arranu'ements for tho niniit. 
 
 ' It was finally agreed, therefore, that we should stay 
 where we were, but that the whole party should be on 
 the gni vice during the ni<>-ht, with revolvers close to 
 their lieads, and an armed sentry shoidd perand)ulate 
 the <jjarden. I was so completely done up with the 
 fati_!L>'ues of the i3rovious night, passed j^rincipally on 
 foot, and the long day's ride, that by general consent I 
 was kindly omitted from keeping guard. I rolled a 
 horse cloth round me, placed my revolver close to my 
 Iiead, to be ready in case of an alarm, and soon fell fast 
 asleep. I had previously arranged a tolerably comfort- 
 able bed by help of an arm-chair, and bench (In)th 
 stuffed), and an air pillow I always sleep on out here, 
 and wdiich I have found invaluable. 1 have no doubt 
 
AN i:\( ITlNti IUI»K 
 
 2i;j 
 
 our retreat, 
 cs, tlie idea 
 iH»i)<».viu<^ \vi' 
 lie IJussiiin-^, 
 (•(• ^vllell we 
 We sliouKl 
 ■ otliiT liand, 
 lucii '• out of 
 wc liail l)een 
 oros. If Wf 
 haiices wrvr, 
 niio;lit even 
 . finally, tliiii 
 rash at least 
 es were tired, 
 the niL;ht. 
 e should stay 
 should be on 
 vers close to 
 peraiuhulate 
 up with the 
 iriucipally oil 
 :>ral consent I 
 I rolled a 
 r close to my 
 soon tell fast 
 ahly conifort- 
 l)ench (l)otli 
 on out here, 
 avc no douht 
 
 my friends kept an exe'dleiit hmk out; hut, as luini- 
 nately tliey were Uot ol>lii;e(l to ehallenn'e any oin-, i hey 
 were uiialde to afford any prartieal pro(»t' of their 
 vii^ilanee. Sonu after dayhi-eak we idS", diank suuie 
 
 ff( 
 
 eiuuM 
 
 niuiK 
 
 hed 
 
 (ICCC l> 
 
 f Itread, sadilled, ;ind rixh' 
 
 aloni;' tile road towards tiie ixU^sians, to cxplori' still 
 fui'tiier. 
 
 'Tiie ride was certainly very excitini;' and enjoyahle. 
 Tlie luorniuL,^ was h»vely, and tlie air most exhilaratinu^ 
 
 and ins[)U'inL;. llie I'oad woimd so much a'nn;^ tiic 
 hase of a projecting,' spit of rock tiiat w(,' could at iio tiiue 
 see far hefore tis. Still we advanced — the excitement 
 everv nu>ment b(!comini' more infeiise. W'e were all 
 eyes and ears. We scannetl every inch of the ;;rouiid 
 (»u eitlier side, scrutini/iiiL;' sus|)ieiously every Imsli, 
 and even goin^' so fai- as to ima^dne a small strc aju of 
 water to h(.' the sword or bayonet of some !\ussiaii 
 soldier, to which in fact at first it bore an uiipleasantlv 
 stroni;' res«'nd»lance. At len:;th wo si;;iited a \illage 
 half buried in sonie trees close to tiie water's ed^e. 
 Several people were walking" about, and one or two 
 were distinctly visiiile standi ul,' on a ruuf. and loukin;^' 
 up at us with apparent astonishment. 
 
 'We held a council of war. It was maTufestly im- 
 prudent to proceed, as if, as was exti'emely })i'ol)al)le, 
 there were any Cossacks concealed in the vilhi^e, our 
 retreat eoidd be com[)let(dy cut off. The ([uestion was 
 put to the vote, and decided in favour of an advance 
 by the casting vote of old .Air. Smith, wlio was in a state 
 of intense excitement. On we went, therefore, Camp- 
 
 R 2 
 
•I( 
 
 Ui 
 
 CANADA *.ND TTFE Crj:MEA 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 'I. 
 
 i i 
 
 u 
 
 i -"■■ 
 
 ' I 
 
 
 Ix'll and myself mentally saying', " Wliat fools v>'e are!" 
 After ridinij about a mile or less, we came to distinct 
 traces of a Cossack picket near a bend of the road, 
 whence a !L>"ood view could be obtained of the route we 
 liad fallowed in our advance. Traces of watch fires, 
 liay scattered over the half-charred bushes, and unmis- 
 takable sij^ns of the recent presence of horses, shewed 
 us clearly enou^-h where our friends had ])een. A few 
 paces further, we encountered a Tartar, whom at first 
 we took for a Cossack. He had l)read and salt in his 
 hand, which he offered to us, and of some of which 
 Nicholson ate. We questioned liim by o-estures, and 
 repeatiuLi; the w^ords " Kusses," " Francese," as to 
 whether tliere were Kussians or French ahead. From 
 liis replies we learnt, that we were quite beyond the 
 French outposts; and there were nothing but Kussiaii>; 
 in front of us. 
 
 'At leno-th, after we had o-one four miles or so be- 
 yond our cliateau, we decided on returning. We 
 deviated to the right on our way l)ack, to visit one or 
 two deserted French villas near the sea-side. The 
 principal one was the property of M. Demidoff. It 
 had been a ver}- pretty place, and evidenth- fitted up 
 in a stvle of great luxurv and comfort. The situation 
 was very fine, tliough a little difficult of access. We 
 foiuid a large wine press, and materials for wine 
 making ; a cabinet-maker's shop, fine stables and out- 
 houses, and the remains of a very hantlsome decorated 
 little chapel, wantoidy pillaged by the French and 
 English cavalry, who had made a reconnoissance along 
 
 IL; AM 
 

 TARTIALITY 
 
 245 
 
 the road some days before. The priest's house, which 
 was small, Lut furnished with taste and elegance, was 
 united to the chapel, and had shared the same fate. 
 Edwards found, seated peacefully and happily on a pile 
 of broken chairs and tables, a very tame and pretty 
 little white cat, with hazel eyes and pink ears. Puss, 
 who illustrated the old saying, of a cat's never abandon- 
 ing the house, was borne off in triumj)h, and now 
 inhabits a tent on the heights. We had to clind) an 
 almost inaccessible hill to regain our chateau ; and 
 having breakfasted, packed our cut as we could, bear- 
 ing away with us a coujile of chairs, a bookshelf, a 
 form, and a drawer from a wardrobe as trophies. 
 
 'I am much annoyed at finding my name has not 
 been given in General Simpson's despatch, though 
 perhaps, considering all things, it is not a subject of 
 jjreat regret. Nothin<i: can be more insultin*; to the 
 arm} and the common sense of the country, than the 
 manner in which general officers persist in mentioning 
 almost exclusively their own staff — men who, in a 
 general action, do little or nothing, and hardly one of 
 whom left the shelter of the parapet (jn the 8th of 
 .September. If I find I am not recommended for im)- 
 motion, I shall try to ascertain the reason of the 
 omission. Every one here says, I have been very 
 badly treated. At the assault of the 18th of June, 
 three euixineer officers were killed ; on the 8th of 
 September, I was the only engineer officer who left 
 the trenches. I performed uiy duty to the entire 
 
 I :ill! 
 
hi 
 
 246 
 
 CANADA AND TIIH CRIJiEA 
 
 ■J h 
 
 
 . ( 
 
 III 
 
 'I "I 
 
 ;' I; 
 
 
 t\ '1 
 
 .-•atisfacfion of all th(3 senior officers of my corps, several 
 of ^v}l(>nl, Colonel Chapman, ^Nlajor Bent, and ]\Iaj(jr 
 Stanton, expressed themselves to me very handsomely 
 on the subject. I sent the other day the following 
 letter to the Times on the subject of the scaling- 
 ladders, most untruly described as too short by their 
 correspondent. 
 
 ' " To the Editor of the Times, 
 
 ' " Sir, 
 
 ^''Your Correspondent's letter describing 
 the grand assault of the allied armies u^ion Sebastopol. 
 though generally very acciu'ate and correct, contains a 
 misrepresentation respecting the English attack upon 
 the Kedan, which, as I was personsdly present through- 
 out the assault, and charged by General Jones with the 
 conduct of the scaling-ladders, you will perhaps permit 
 me to rectify, through the mediiun of your columns. 
 The scaling-ladders are stated in your Correspondent's 
 letter to have been 'too short,' and it is further asserted 
 that there were very few of theni placed round the 
 salient. A simple statement of the facts of the case is 
 the best answer to these assertions. 
 
 ' '' Forty scaling-ladders, each twenty-four feet long, 
 to be carried l)y 320 men, were collected on the morn- 
 innf of the assault in the most advanced trench. iM'dit 
 men were told off to each ladder ; and about lialf-an- 
 hour before the attack took place, the late 3fajor 
 
 liii 
 
 :' !. 
 
LETTER TO THE ^Tnii:;:;' 
 
 247 
 
 rps, several 
 iind INIajor 
 landsomely 
 followinLi 
 le Kcaliiifj- 
 
 O 
 
 rt by tlieir 
 
 descril)in;4 
 Sebastopol, 
 
 coutaius a 
 ittack upon 
 lit. tlirouL>li- 
 les with the 
 
 aps permit 
 ir cohiiniif*. 
 cspnndeiit'.'^ 
 ler asserted 
 
 round the 
 f the case is 
 
 ir feet hmg, 
 I tlie luorn- 
 icli. height 
 )ut half-an- 
 hite ^Nfajor 
 
 Welsford, in command of the party, ordered, at my 
 request, eveiy man to stand or sit by the side of the 
 ladder lie was told off to assist in carrying. 
 
 ' " ]\[y duty consisted in conducting the party to the 
 best point for placing th^ ladders, and I had about 
 twenty sappers under n.y orders, provided with axes 
 and crowbars for breaking through the abatis, and with 
 picks Jind shovels for forming a ramp into the ditch, 
 Sic. When the signal for the advance was given, the 
 ladder party ran to the front as rai:)idly as they could. 
 .... The fire of the enemy, however, was hea\y, 
 and several ladders were left behind in the advauci-d 
 trench. 
 
 ' " The ditch proved much sligliter than had been 
 anticipated. Its depth at the salient could not have 
 been more than twelve to fifteen feet. 
 
 * " I was ordered by General Jones to makc> the 
 descent into the ditch, and the ascent of the escai'p, 
 practicable. With the assistance of my sa})pers, I 
 effected this in a few minutes, and numbers of men ran 
 up the ramp thus formed, without using any ladders at 
 all. When the first column mounted the salient, they 
 drew several ladders after them. This may have led 
 those who came up afterwards to imagine the number 
 of ladders emploved much smaller than tliev rcallv 
 were. Xot a inaii was delayed from want of means for 
 moimting tlie escarp. Trusting that you will excuse 
 my trespassing upon your valuable space, but feeling 
 that it was only due to my corps and to myself to make 
 
 ,.f. 
 
I< 1 
 
 m 
 
 1 1 
 
 ,;<■ 
 
 lit! 
 
 "1 
 
 I' 
 
 
 248 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 the statement that I have; done, and that you would be 
 the first to receive such an exphmation, 
 
 * " I liave the lionour to be, Sir, 
 
 '' " Your most obedient Servant, 
 ' ^' George Kanken, 
 
 * " Lieut. Koyal Engineers. 
 
 • " Royal Engineers' Camp, neav Sebastopol, 
 October IG." 
 
 ' Nothing so annoys and dispirits one as finding-, after 
 passing through the most trying ordeals, everything 
 misrepresented and unappreciated, and rewards and 
 honours conferred on imdeserving men, who have done 
 little or nothing to gain them. This miserable system 
 I hold to be one of the chief causes of the inferiority of 
 om* army, as an intelligent machine of war. Every one 
 who has had the dangerous and arduous trench duty to 
 do, is disgusted beyond measure at finding himself, 
 instead of being distinguished, coiifuunded in a hetero- 
 geneous mass, with the cavalry, who have not been 
 imder fire for a year, and even with men on board ship, 
 and at Kertch, who have been indiscriminately re- 
 warded with " the Sebastopol clasp." Injustice and 
 stupidity are seeds which never will produce good fruit, 
 and until justice and common sense prevail, no one 
 nuist feel surprised at misfortune and failures. 
 
 'Our movements since the grand final struggle have 
 been principally confined to preparations for the ap- 
 proaching winter. It would astonish a novice to see 
 the prodigious amount of labour necessary for the form- 
 
rKErAI{I>G FOR WIMEli 
 
 24 y 
 
 oil would be 
 
 iition of a thoroiioLly oood road frum J5alucliivu to the 
 front. Several thousand men are employed daily alon^; 
 the whole lenj^th, under the superintendence of tlu- 
 Army \Vork« Corps, and several captains of line regi- 
 ments, specially told off to i)articular sections. 1 am 
 the only officer of engineers employed, and I have be- 
 tween 500 and (iOO men under my directions. M\' 
 portion will be iinislied in ten days or a fortnight, its 
 breadth varying, according to circumstances, fi-om 
 twenty to twenty-four feet, well macadamised, with a 
 margin of several feet on each side, sloping down to- 
 wards deep trenches. Several large culverts are con- 
 structed where, from the nature of the ground, thei'c 
 appeared a probability of a great rush of water.' 
 

 1 
 
 i 1 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 
 250 
 
 CANADA AND Tltil CKDIEA 
 
 chaptp:Pv XIV. 
 
 AVINTEIl IN TJIE CKIMEA. 
 
 11 
 
 r ' 
 
 ' Noveniljer 23rd. 
 
 * rpHE variet}^ of residence is amazing in camp; almost 
 J- every officer who could procure laboiu' has built 
 himself a small snugo-ery. The general rule is to dig 
 a square pit in the ground, and then edge it with a 
 dwarf wall, cutting an opening at one side for a window 
 and at another for a door. 
 
 ' After the terrible explosion which occurred on the 
 15th, it was fully expected that the liussians would 
 have made some decisive movement. We shall pro- 
 bably remain in quiet winter quarters, jiaddling about 
 in the mud, or wading through snow drifts ; we have on 
 the whole been very fortunate as yet with regard to our 
 weather. "We have only had one short taste of the 
 Crin\ean winter, consisting of three or four days' 
 decidedly disagreeable weather. The army is going on 
 building, and making roads, as if it had several more 
 weeks of sunshine and clear sky to depend on. The 
 main communications are all but finished, and building 
 is going on well everywhere. 
 
DOMESTIC ECONOMY 
 
 251 
 
 'omber 23i'd. 
 
 iinip; almost 
 )ur lias built 
 iilo is to dig" 
 ,^e it with a 
 or a window 
 
 rred on the 
 isians would 
 e shall iDi'o- 
 dling ah<nit 
 
 we have on 
 
 egard to our 
 
 taste of the 
 
 four days' 
 
 is Cf'^inc: on 
 everal more 
 id on. The 
 
 md building 
 
 ^ I genernlly have my hnnds full of work, and have 
 reeentlv been re(|uesti'd, in addition to mv other duties, 
 to act as Treasurer of the K. E. Mess in eau)]). We 
 are about to get a hut put up, finish off a, stone eook- 
 liouse, buy sheep, geese, S:c.^ and, in fact, start a regular 
 mess in a rough and practical, but I am in hopes by no 
 means unsatisfactory style. As yet 1 dine every night 
 with a thick coat and cap on, in a single tent. Our 
 soup (a concoction of beef-ljroth and onions generally 
 speaking) is served up in an old Kussian wooden bowl 
 of irregular proportions, and coloured a dingy red. Our 
 candlesticks till (piite recently were bottles, our 
 drinking cups, old jam pots. We live very well on the 
 whole: and a fat goose w^ell stulTed is not an unknown 
 thinn: with us. I have been endeavoiu'im:^ to make mv 
 company of sappers comfortal)le for the winter. I get 
 up wood from ^Sebastopol every day in a Maltese cart, 
 which I purchased a few weeks since, and have two 
 sawyers of my own company constantly at work sawing 
 it into thin planks for lining the interior of the men's 
 huts. I gave my colour-serjeant 10/. the other day to 
 l)uy the men jjlates, and to get a couple of sheep, and 
 half a dozen geese, etc., for Christmas Day. Turkeys 
 do not thrive in camp, and are besides continually 
 killed and eaten by the rats. 
 
 'Nov. 25th. — The wdnter, which withheld its approach 
 longer than the most sanguine could have anticipated, 
 is at length upon us. It began l)y several days' frost ; 
 it has now turned w^et. To-day is one of the most 
 drear v that could be conceived. A howling wind : 
 
 I i; ' 
 
U' iu%.'j .«!_«*. '^B^-4r.«, 
 
 
 I.- 
 
 j!H 
 
 252 CANADA AM) THE CRDIHA 
 
 torrents of min ; a muddy chaos witlioiit ; tents (|uiver- 
 iiiL;' and Hupping" ; huts leakini,^ and soaked — hapj)}' tlie 
 man, liowever, who like myself is in one. I slept in a 
 tent till the 16th of November (just alx)ut three months 
 from my landing). I was driven out of it more liy tlie 
 rats than by the cold. I am now ensconced in a snug 
 corner of a hut, with a good fire in it. It leaks a little, 
 hut u'liiiporte, such matters are trifles. I only wish a 
 tithe of the army were as comfortable as myself. The 
 lints have not nearly all arrived. They are, it is true, 
 being brought to the front as fast as they are unloaded ; 
 and they require but a short time to put up; but it 
 will probably be some weeks before the whole army is 
 under roofs. Some regiments, the 88th and 44tli 
 especially, have made themselves very snug, by build- 
 ing thick stone walls round their wooden ones. Their 
 vicinity to rocks and stones enabled them to do this. 
 The 4tli regiment (close to us) have built several entire 
 huts for themselves, and collected tiles from Sebastopol 
 to roof them with. Want of wood, or rather of sawyers, 
 has prevented them finishing them completely. I 
 have had to drain the camps of the 3rd Division, and 
 to send a report in respecting those of the whole army 
 on the heights before Sebastopol. Of course this report 
 necessitated a preliminary inspection, and I was com- 
 pelled to visit every camp of the position on the heights. 
 I have likewise had charge of the construction of a 
 portion of road, and of the works near and about two 
 water tanks of the 3rd and 4th Divisions. 
 
 ' My health has been most mercifully preserved, my 
 
IMrROVEMENT.S 
 
 2j;3 
 
 reserved, mv 
 
 promotion very rapid; and I liave every reason to be 
 thankful to the (river of all good. I only wish I was 
 more deservini; of the blessinjxs and favours bestowed 
 on me. 
 
 ' Deremher \sf. — Last night we had a gale of wiinl 
 whieh blew down several tents, and recalk'd, to t]\oi<c 
 who were hero last winter, recollections of the <Teat 
 fjale of November 14th. The rain beat furiouslv 
 iigainst my hut, but only penetrated slightly at one or 
 two places. 
 
 'To-day the camp is a sea of mud. I have notict'd 
 at several points that this mud only appears to lie 
 superficially, and that imderneath it there is a tolerably 
 hard surface of a kind of gravel, infinitely preferable to 
 the mud, though not exactly perfect. I am effecting a 
 variety of improvements; draining and paving; build- 
 ing a stone guard hut; and forming, with a woodrn 
 trough and a number of ship's tanks from Sebastopol, 
 a supplementary tank, where the men may fill the 
 water-bag carried by the mules with greater facility. I 
 am having a step made along the line of iron tanks, to 
 render the operation more easy, and am in hopes the 
 men will derive benefit from it during the Avinter. The 
 mud destroys the roads almost as fast as they are made. 
 Nothing seems to stand but large rough paving stones ; 
 the broken metal i«! (piickly transformed into mud. 
 Huts continue to arrive from Ealaclava, })ut very many 
 are yet required to complete the requisite nund)er. 
 
 'The Russians fire daily at the docks. The denioli- 
 tipn makes but slow progress, although the men work 
 (lay and night at it. 
 
^-3a 
 
 2:>4 
 
 CANADA AM) THE CUIMEA 
 
 ! . 
 
 ! ■ 
 
 *1 am l)nsy ^vttinjL;' live) stock and provisions for tlu' 
 Hoval Kiiiiineers' mess. We have many difficuUlcs in 
 our WMV, our snppers bein^" so complt-tely absorlx'd in 
 adniinisterinn' to tlie j^'cneral wants of tlie army— super- 
 intendini;' \V(»rkinL,f parties, giving;' dirrclions aliout 
 liuts, <Sn'. — tluit we very seldom can <;'et tlicni to attend 
 to our own wants. AVitli all this we enjcty the repu- 
 tation of being the best eared for officers in the 
 arm}'. 
 
 '."My coh)ur-serjeant (Falkner) ol)lained to-day his 
 appointment to the Land Transport Corps. Ife has been 
 upwju'ds of thirteen years in th'e service witliout a 
 sin<de crime on Ins defatdter's sheet. I feel a sincere 
 pleasure in seeing merit thus rewarded. 
 
 ' ])('C. 3r(/, — on which the weather was a l)riglit 
 exception to that we had for some days, was marked 
 by a grand steeple-chase and a dinner. The steeple- 
 cdiase came off on some grounds not far from the 
 jvamiescli road. It attracted a very large nundjer ui 
 both French and Englisli oflficers, and was even graced 
 with the presence of ■Marshal Pelissier and (Jeneral 
 Codrington. The former came in his carriage-and-four, 
 attended by a large staff, and preceded by a Spain with 
 a turban, and wearing a pictures(iiie red cloak folded 
 round him, <»n which two decorations shone conspicu- 
 ously. iU>- duties consist in holding the JMarshafs 
 liorse when he dismounts, and in heralding, l)y his 
 singular and picturesque aspect, the approach of the 
 General-in-Chief to the army. I had not seen Pelissier 
 before, though just after the siege I bad imagined 
 
..;A«.-irAL fBfflSSIER 
 
 355 
 
 sions for tlif 
 (liflicuUits in 
 y }il»s(irl)('il ill 
 fU'inv— supi'i- 
 )cti()iis al»ont 
 liciii to iittcucl 
 ijoy the rtpu- 
 fficcrs ill tlif 
 
 ed to-(l;iy liis 
 
 ;. He lias been 
 
 ice ^vitllout a 
 
 feel u sinciTc 
 
 was a bright 
 ;, was inarke(l 
 The steei)k- 
 far from the 
 re niunher ut 
 IS even graceil 
 and General 
 L-iage-and-foiir, 
 y a Spahi with 
 cloak fohh'd 
 one conspicu- 
 the ^Nrarshal's 
 aiding, hy his 
 )proach of tlu' 
 seen Pelissier 
 had iningiiu'l 
 
 Iliad at tbe jWalakhoft, and _ \<'i iiiin credit for per- 
 ibrming a feat of agility w' -li wlien I hehelil the 
 ■(■al iiKUi, liecanu- ([iiile out of tlie ([neslidii. 1 had 
 heard that tin; .Marshal was fat, hut I was imj)re|»ar(d 
 for the !uar\«llously hroad tigui'e which |»n'><iit('d 
 itself to niy view, 'i'hc Mai>hal stood for the greater 
 portion of the day on the shpe of a hill overlooking 
 the races, lie, however, not (pute satisfied with thi-; 
 distant view, towards the close of the day drove down 
 to the brook, and stood up in his carriage to have a 
 good view of the Jmiip there. [ studied his (Nam- 
 tenance, and was struck by it. it is peculiar, l<ut full 
 of sense and energy. I lis head is large, and covere(l 
 with very shoi't and very whiti' bristles, which contrast 
 oddlv with a skin bronzed by the sun of Africa. 
 
 * Sir AVilliain Codrington, who rode on the ground 
 luiostentatiously on a small grey horse, with scarce 
 an attenihmt, chatted with the Marshal for several 
 minutes. 
 
 'After the first race, the winning jock (raj)t. YeKer- 
 ton, Iv.A. ) was led up to IVlissier by his own request, 
 and complimented very politely by him on his success. 
 The races on the whole went off admirably. There 
 was a great deal of good fencing, and a great deal ol" de- 
 termined j)luck. A heavy fall, which entailed a sevei'e 
 sliaking and an embrowned and bespattered visage, was 
 treated rather as a joke than otherwise, and the un- 
 horsed jock, gaily mounting his steed, went boldly at 
 the next jnmp. After two steeple-chases, at wliich 
 none but English officers rode, there was a French flat 
 
'^ 
 
 i. i 
 
 '(.' 
 
 2.")fi 
 
 CANADA AND TIIK CniMKA 
 
 racp, (Hif of tlic most ridiculous cxliiljitinus ini:t<;iii;il>lc. 
 llorsn-riU'liii;' is ccrtMiiily not tlic forte of the Frctir-li, 
 ;ni(l tlicii" notions of" '" Ic sjxirf"' nrc l>y no means iden- 
 tical witii our own. On tin's occasion, on little poniep. 
 witli their peculiarly-t'ashioiu'd nether vestments, in 
 sonu! cases witliout coats, and hrandishini^ laru,'c whips 
 (whicli were coni|)romises between riding; and wai^'^oners" 
 ones), they .Lfnlloped slowly alon;.% tlourishinpf, gesticu- 
 lating', and tali<iug to their horses. 
 
 *A (leneral was one of the jocks, and his admiriiiL! 
 friends ridin;^; by his side incited liini to fresh effort-; 
 )»y encouraginn^ cries of " Allez,, inoii Gfun'til,'' '■^ lirai'D, 
 nioii Genera f,''' c"(:c., ail of which produced increased 
 vociferations, and Avln*]) brandishing. It was difficult 
 to refrain from laui>"hter, thouijli of course <;ood taste 
 and politeness forbad it. However, I think the 
 Frencli w^ere themselves sensible that they had not 
 shoni' particularly, as a Colonel remarked in my hear- 
 ing, that it was not " una belle journee pour I' 
 France." 
 
 ' One Frenchman alone contended in a steeple-cliase. 
 His name was Viscount Talon, well known in sportinu' 
 circles in England. Thongh very rich, he entered the 
 Chasseurs d'Africjue as a private soldier, and in fact 
 now is only a corporal. He w^as mounted on an iron 
 grey pony, and rode with great courage, but nnhappily 
 witli little success. At the first wall his horse fell, and 
 the two next horses all Init jumped upon l)oth steed 
 and rider as they lay sprawling on the ground. The 
 Viscoimt, despite this unpleasant conunencement. 
 
 4 
 
niMNd wiTir Tin: 3i:n nivrsioN 
 
 857 
 
 inouiitcd, and rode on a;^',iiii likt> a man. and I iic- 
 licvc, at'trr onr or two nioi'c fnni)ilr», ^-ut inimd tin* 
 conrx', or as sonic sav, ai-ldcvcd that result williout 
 
 liirtlici' inisroitiUK' 
 
 T\ 
 
 \r three |»rMic'i|»;il raoes were won liv Mrfillerv 
 
 •fill. 
 
 officers, — ^'elverfoii, I>iddnl|tli, and I'at ('ain|»lii II. 
 
 * III flie e\-enin;4', Ni''liolson and myself went todinner 
 at file IJestanrant of tlie .*5rd Division. Ahoiif seventy 
 or ei'difv officers were iireseiit, and on(f civilian — 
 the TiiiK's' ('ori'esj)ondenf. The dinner passed olV veiy 
 Well, flioiiuli flic wines wei'e indifterenf. We liad 
 some capital siiiLjfinL;', und wound up the e\-enin'j; by ji 
 ^'cuuine and liearty cliorus of d'cd N'V'v; f/if (Jiimi^ 
 followed by three I'rifish cheers which made the weiki 
 
 11 
 
 rin)>- a2'ain. 
 
 ^ Dec. 7fh. — Fine warm day, with rather a hi^ii wind. 
 Iiode round the works in fiie niorniiiLi" : L;roniid in u 
 most muddy stafe. Xicholsoii came up from Seliastop.d 
 in tlie affenioon. Jle gives a most favoura,l)Ie account 
 of the prooTcss of the demolition of the doek<. The 
 Kussians fire less than they did on the W(»rkinL;' partii's. 
 We are slowly geftinL;' fhe ground levelled for oiu' mess, 
 hut our men are so much occupicil in the ofhei- camps 
 that 1 fear some time iniist elajise ere we get oiii' mess 
 satisfactorily ,>tarted. 
 
 ' 7>c. H/A. — A variable day, showery but mild. Ou a 
 reuimenfal court-martial in the morning: rode after- 
 
 Viscount Tiilon. iin another occa.^ion, Vdi 
 
 dr hi 
 
 s own li()rs(^ 
 
 a|raiust tlu; best l''ii^lisli riders for a i^-rrat liiu'dU' race o))i'ii to all 
 
 nations, which ho won in yood stvU 
 
 ■ EinTtjii 
 
h ^ 
 
 ! i > 
 
 I: 
 
 '; i 
 
 i 
 
 258 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 wards to inspect, at Col. CJordou's request, a dilapidated 
 powder magazine near New Kadikci ; found it, though 
 brimful of powdei', in a most ruined state, a l;u'ge hole 
 in one angle, no locks for tiie doors, the walls giving way 
 in various directions, and yet close to the main road 
 and to that drunken })andemonium called, variously, 
 New Kadikoi or Donnybrook, Dined early with Schaw, 
 and went in the evening with him to visit the school 
 
 established recently for the men. Found it was not a 
 school niglit, so returned to my hut, where I read out 
 some passages of Na}iier's animate»l and graphic des- 
 criptions of J^attles in the Peninsula, and afterwards 
 played a veiy tough game of chess with Schaw. Nights 
 fine, with "■ stars so l)ri*ditlv shininj;:, because they've 
 nothing else to do."' It is quite a r< iief to see the blue 
 sky again, though I fear we shall have but a glimpse 
 of it. 
 
 'Dec. 9tJi. — Wet in the morning, but fine and mild 
 in the afternoon. Attended service in our rude church, 
 composed of old marcpun^s and tents, stretched over 
 some rough scantling between two stables: and itself, 
 I believe, on week days, used as a stable for ciuiiels. 
 In the afternoon, when the weather cleared, I rode 
 "Zouave" to the KiMlan. The old siege works were very 
 muddy, anil partially dilapidated. The light was thrown 
 very beautifully on the formidable Eussian works; and 
 I do not recollect ever seeing the Malakhofif looking so 
 noble and inq)osing. Every end)rasure was distinctly 
 marked by its inangular dark patch of shadow. Nichol- 
 son was up during the morning from iSebastopol. He 
 
THE LAND TRANSPORT CORPS 
 
 259 
 
 dilapidated 
 I it, tli()Hi,fh 
 I larL,'e liole 
 s giving \v.'iy 
 ? main road 
 d, variously, 
 with Sc'liaw, 
 t tlie sc'liool 
 it was not a 
 •(' I read out 
 orapliic dt.'s- 
 d afterwards 
 haw. Nights 
 cause they've 
 ) see the hhie 
 ut a glimpse 
 
 ine and mild 
 rude church, 
 tretched over 
 ;: and itself, 
 for camels, 
 ired, I rode 
 rks were very 
 it was thrown 
 » works ; and 
 ff looking so 
 was distinctly 
 dow. Xiehul- 
 astopol. He 
 
 promises an ex])l(»si(ni in the dockyard in a w^eek or 
 ten (l;iys. Sir William Codi'ington called at the c;nu]> 
 in the eveniuLf to see Colonel (iordon. He said, he had 
 received no official intimation of the fall of Kars, and 
 that he was in hopes that it mi-rht have held out. 
 Kumours of its fall are, however, I believe, rife. — Time 
 will show. Night, starlight and ]deasant. 
 
 'Dec. lO/A.— A beautiful day. A light frost in the 
 morning — warm in tho ndddle of the day. Little 
 effect, how^ever, apparently produeed on the mud and 
 puddles. Sent my cart with servant on bat ]>'Miv to 
 Balaclava for sheep, Jtc. Atteiuh-d (rencral I']yi'e*s 
 levee at 11 a.m. He retjue.sted me to confer with the 
 head of the Land Transport Corps, attached to the .Srd 
 Division, with the view of ascertaining what assistance 
 I could afford him in rooting-in the stables. Cobtnel 
 Edwards, IHth Regiment, asked me to look at ono of 
 his large hospital huts, which had been much shaken 
 by a recent gale of wind. I complied with his recpicst, 
 and also went three times through the nuid to the Land 
 Transport Corps, without finding the Captain. 
 
 'I inspected the stables, however, in company of the 
 second in command. Walls had been built, and a 
 small portion of roof fixed, scantily: but nearly all the 
 animals (4(i() in number) were without cover. Planks 
 and nails were required. Some were supposed fo hn 
 Oil theli' 't''('i/ from England, but nothing positive hiul 
 been heard respecting them. The f.and Transport 
 Corps has b?en recently very much worked, and their 
 horse.5 and mules, parth^ from this cause, and parth', 
 
 s 2 
 
|I ! 
 
 i't 
 
 
 ^1 
 
 200 
 
 CANADA AND THE crjMEA 
 
 I cannot but tliink, from want of proper care and 
 attenti(»n, have suffered a p'eat deal. 
 
 ' [t became manifest, tliat if tasked in tliis manner 
 mucli lonu^er they would eventually become ineffective, 
 and that the army would ajj^ain liave to contend with 
 the paralyzing' influence of deficient transport on the 
 resumption of liostilities in the spring. An order was 
 accordin^'ly issued to spare them as much as possible, 
 an(l fatigiie parties of several regiments are marched 
 down to l^alaclava daily to l)rini>- up their huts and 
 stores to the front. The march there and back cannot 
 be less than from twelve to fourteen miles. I was 
 much pleased at finding that the men performed it 
 with ease, ami plodded over the mudd}' roads with 
 their long ])oots, carrying for six or seven miles portions 
 of their huts, and occupying but a few hoars in the 
 task. I think that this marchinu' wdll be a u'reat benefit 
 to the army. The more exercise the men take, con- 
 sistent with health, the ])etter. I visited Denne at the 
 small-arm anuuunition Ijrigade, and lunched with him. 
 I also paid two visits to the magazine of the li'fr. 
 siege train, and rode round all my working parties. 
 Tilings are going on, on the whole, satisfactorily. 1 
 took a walk with Cooke in the eveninsf. Schaw and he 
 dined with Scratchley and myself, and afterwards came 
 over to my liut, where I read them a few chapters of 
 the immortal Pickwick. To l)ed about 11.30 r.M. 
 
 ^ Dec. Wth. — Saw the chief of the Land Transport 
 Corps, and called on (leneral Eyre to report on his 
 
 uestiou. 1 had mentioned, at an interview^ on the 
 
AN AFTERNOON IN THE DOCKS 
 
 261 
 
 r care and 
 
 previous day, tliat it might be dcsiraMe to establish a 
 saw-pit ill the diteh <>t' the Kedan, wliere the heavy 
 beams and timbers, which tixed and sup])orti'd \]\o 
 Eiissian bomb-proof barracks, might be sawn up into 
 portable planks and rafters. lie told me, to-day, he 
 had suggested that this sliould be done. I said l would 
 ride to Sebastopol, and tind out where wood could be 
 most easily in-ocured ; and left Iiim, after receiving his 
 thanks for my cigar, and majis. I rode straight to the 
 Eedan after our interview, and gro))ed into some of the 
 old casemates there. The beams and tind)ers seem so 
 securely fixed, that some difficulty wouhl ])e expe- 
 rienced in getting them out. I found, however, that 
 there were a good many rafters in the White ihiildings 
 apparently sufneient for the required ])urpose. After 
 this inspection I rode to the docks, where working 
 parties of both French and iMiglish were busily en- 
 gaged in sinking shafts and driving galleries, in spite of 
 very great difficulties, caused by springs breaking 
 through into the shafts and inundating the ga1lerit\'-. 
 I heard a poor soldier had been di-owued on the pre- 
 vious niuiit, bv fdling into a sliaft with six feet of 
 water in it. ,Men were engaged pum[)ing water out 
 sufficiently lov>' to admit of work being performed. I 
 ^pent an interesting afternoon altogether in the docks. 
 It seems that our demolition will be nmi'e complete 
 than the Freueh. We have given ourselves miieh more 
 trouble than thev have. 
 
 'The svstem of demolition appears very siuiple: — 
 charges, proportioned to the lines of least resistance. 
 
; I 
 
 r 
 
 
 262 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 pl;iC(Ml at intervals of twice its len^-tli Ijeliiiid the re- 
 tainiiiL!' walls. I lunched with two or throe officers of 
 
 gi(j- 
 
 the 18th, iu the hoiise formerly occupied \ty the Angl 
 French Com mission. P>om a small l)alcouy outside, I 
 was able with a telescope to scrutinize very minutely 
 the formidalile line of Kussian batteries which frown 
 grimly from the north shore. I was told not to expose 
 myself too conspicuously, or the Kussians would pro= 
 hably fire on the house, "vvhich was in easy ranire of 
 most of their batteries. They sent, in fact, shot and 
 shell every now and then, within a few feet of it, and 
 one of the latter most disao'reeable messengers had 
 alighted only a day or two before in the back yard. 
 I could S(>e Jxussian sentries most distinctl}', and even 
 the gunners loading and pointing their guns, The 
 Russians fire continually on the town and docks, every 
 now and then wounding a few men. No notice w^hat- 
 evei', however, is taken of their fire. 
 
 ^ IJec. I'Mh. — A fine frosty morning. There had 
 lieen a dehige of rain the previous night, which did 
 some daiiiao-e, carrv'ni; away two strouu'ly-bmlt brido-cs 
 over a stream in one of the ravines. I walked out with 
 i^chaw a.nd Cooke to the J^astion du Mat, where wo 
 studied the Russian defences. 
 
 •• Behind the ]?astion du Mat are numerous batteries 
 and parap(^ts, and the ridge at the end of which it 
 stands is swept by the fire of an indented line of tlio 
 most formidable fianking batteries. We found some 
 French r(\giments hutted in patched-up little houses 
 just behind tlieir works. We returned l)y the Creek 
 
LECTUKE ON THE f'RDIEA 
 
 263 
 
 
 batteiy, which had l)Cen a grc-it deal injured l)y tlie 
 flood, i^art of the phitl'onn, v.V:c'., havinj^ heeii swept 
 away; just outside was a pcrfeet little lake. 
 
 ' At () r.M. I went to hear a lecture dcliven-d by the 
 Chaplain-General to the sappers, on tin; History ot" the 
 Crimea. l[e went back to the earliest i)eriod of history, 
 and described the country from those days to tlie present 
 time, as the theatre of perpetual warfare, and as con- 
 tinually inhabited by barbarous tribes, drivini^- one 
 another out in turn. People from Iferaclea in Asia 
 Minor crossed the Bhick Sea, and occupied tlu; very 
 heights on which we are now encam))ed, as far back as 
 800 B.C., and Mithridates l)uilt a wall to protect their 
 successors from the invasion of a wild tribe of the 
 northern steppes, who dashed in, in search of booty, as 
 soon as the |)rosi)erity and wealth of their mcjre peaceful 
 neighbours became temjjting. 
 
 'Tlie Crimea was at one time in the power of the 
 Romans; but they exercised but little control over so 
 distant a proviucf^. The Ivussians under Princt' N'ladi- 
 mir attacked the Crimea, and licsieged Sebastopol .-ibout 
 the third century. They took the place then by cutting 
 off the water of the town, after a siege of many nudiths' 
 duration. Vladimir was a very able as well as a very 
 earnest man. His mind was much discjuietc'd by 
 religious feeling, and he strove zealously to discover 
 which (.'f the various creeds professed by ditlerent 
 nations was the best. Whilst engaLCed in wai-like 
 operations in the Crimea, he ilespatclied ambassadors 
 to Constantinople, to make in<iuiries respecting the 
 
I ' I 
 
 , \ 
 
 i'. 
 
 
 I' 
 
 264 
 
 CANADA AND THE CIUMEA 
 
 Christian faitli. Tlicv \\cv<' iiilrodiu'cd iii*"o tlic inao-- 
 infic'L'iit church of St. Sophia, now the L;T('at temple of 
 
 .M 
 
 ihonietanisni, 
 
 and were struck witli achniratioii, 
 
 pro])ably more witli tlie sph'iidour of the W(»rs]iip tliaii 
 by its spirit and njianini;'. Theii' report and the efforts 
 of a missionary converted \'ladiiiiii', who was l)a{)tize(l 
 lifter the capture of Sebastopol, it is supposed, on a spot 
 ch)se to the montii of the liarl)our. He did not ictain 
 possession of liis coiK^nest : a„nd notliiny," more was heard 
 or seen <»f the l^ussians in the Crimea till the time of 
 Catherine II. The lecture was, on tlie whole, vei 
 interestinu". 
 
 J 
 
 ^ Dec. HUh. — Old Winter has us at 'enulh 
 
 ;i Jus 
 
 clutches, and we bc-'in to see that we shall have to roU!J-!i 
 it a little in our wooch-n huts. For the last two morn- 
 ings, I liave had to break the ice in my bath before 
 washing ; my ink I was compelled t) thaw before I 
 could write my name to the INIorning State of the C( 
 
 )m- 
 
 pany ; an( 
 
 1 even now, at 11.1.3 a.:m., there i 
 
 s a coveruiLT 
 
 of half an inch oi" so of ice on some water at the further 
 end of till' room, which a]>pears to exhibit no C!)nvictinu 
 that the temperature in that locality has yet risen above 
 
 yet had no cold com[)arable to that 
 
 ?^'2°. 
 
 We 1 
 
 lave as 
 
 of Canada, and I do not imagine that my experience of 
 severe weatlier will be nuich increased b}- a winter in 
 the Crimea. I have driven out at (^)uebec with the mer- 
 curv more than 40° l)elow freezing point. The m-eat 
 difference will of course consist between the dwellinu's 
 here, and in Canada. A wooden shed, with nothing but 
 a wood fire to warm it, is of course a j>-reat contrast to a 
 
MAKING TiriNGS COIMFOUTABLE 
 
 205 
 
 solid stdiio liousc, with stovt's and tire [)!aces, douljlc 
 doors and douMo winilows. As ;i field ofticcr, liowcvcr, 
 my allowance (»t' fuel is la,ri,^o, and with the assistance of 
 wood brought tVdni St'liastopol iu my own cart, I dare 
 sav I shall do very well. We have coals, and eharcoal, 
 ulternately with wcmxI, issued as rations. I met to-day 
 French soldiei's earryinn' old ^^abions, and roui^'h j)ieces 
 of plank or timber. They are evidently rather hard 
 pressed to procure firewooil. The French soldiers do 
 not receivt^ half the attention ours do. 
 
 'All the Russian accounts f have seen of the opera- 
 tions of the war ari' much more true and rational 
 than the l)ond)astic descri2)tions in our newspapers. 
 They ticar, I think, witli a contempt, in a, certain 
 degree well merited, our magniticent achievement of 
 capturing- the little fort of Kinburn, with a naval ibrce 
 sufficient with a few discharges to blow it almost to 
 atoms. 
 
 'There are no anuisements here just novr ])ut read- 
 ing, and walking. I expect Sir William Fyi-e (the 
 General of my ])ivision) in a few minutes, to inspect 
 the huts of n~iy Company to-day. I have postponed the 
 dinner hour, that he may see the men at their meals. I 
 have been ena])led to make my fellows pretty conifort- 
 n,ble. With wood I have brought up in my ouii cart, I 
 have managed to lirie their huts, and have given direc- 
 tions for the construction of tables. I have also bought 
 each of them a tin plate for dinner ( /^r'/b/v; tiny had 
 nothing), and stone drinking uuigs. These comforts, 
 with sixty or seventy volumes td" light reading, and 
 
I' 
 
 !;» 
 
 266 
 
 CANADA AND THE CiaJIEA 
 
 tlu' prospect of a j^ood Christniiis diruuT, have, I tliink, 
 pnxliurd iu some measure the effect 1 desired, and 
 ma(h' my men mon; contented, and well behaved. If 
 you treat nu n like hrutcs, you cannot wonder at their 
 feclini,^ disn'usted with themselves, and l)ehavinL( so as 
 to justify the treatment they receive. I have one or 
 two "shocking bad characters" amonjjf my little party 
 of sixty, but I do not despair alto,L,'etlier of any one of 
 them. 3Iy Serjeants (one in particular) are very kind 
 to the men, and hold the same opinion that 1 do, that 
 persuasion is better than force. 
 
 ' One of my corporals is now enga^'ed in cutting a 
 monument (entirely his own design) in stone, to the 
 memory of all the Sappers and Miners who have been 
 killed, or died during the war. It will be erected in 
 the Sap'pers' l^urial (Iround. The officers of the Engi- 
 neers out here have subscribed very liberally, in 
 conjunction with the Sappers, to erect a joint momi- 
 nient to the memory of all the officers and men of the 
 corps who have perished since the commencement of 
 the war to the fall of Sebastopol. A committee to 
 select the sculptor or architect, and choose the design, 
 has been appointed in London ; and I hope when I 
 retiu-n home (if it please God I should ever do so) to 
 see a worthy memorial to the gallant fellows wlio have 
 fallen out here. 
 
 * Dec. 2\sf. — We have had two or three davs of most 
 severe weather. On the lOtli the thermometer fell 
 below zero at day-break, and even in the hut where I 
 lodge, the mercury, though assisted by the warmtli of a 
 
 
 
VERY ROUGH WKATKF.R 
 
 S67 
 
 ave olio or 
 
 wood fire, did not rise liii^dier tliau 13'' at (S a.m. TIic 
 wind blew witli penctriitiiig shuvpncss from the X.K. 
 The sky ^vas <^Yoy and gloomy, and the weather LTeiie- 
 raliy resembled that of a <lay in the midst of a Canadian 
 winter, when a storm is just abont to l)urst in fury over 
 tlie landseaj)e. In tlie afternoon, in spite of tlie eold, I 
 walked with Cooke, Schaw, and Seratchley to Sebastopol. 
 We met a lon<4' procession of French and Kni:;lish sol- 
 diers, many of them (poor fellows I ) looking" half frozen, 
 carrying" old beams and planks, windows, door frames, 
 and even staves of barrels for fuel. One poor little 
 Fr(ii((^uls had the end of his nose regularly frost-bitten, 
 and I had the satisfaction of restoring animation to it, 
 acc(n-(liug to the Canadian fashion, by the judicious 
 application of a snow-ball. The little man bore the 
 operation very quietly, though he confessed tliat hv, burnt 
 a little. We found Sebastopol much warmer than the 
 heights on which we were encamped. The water of the 
 harbour -^^as steamini>' like boilini>: water, as I have seen 
 that of the St. Lawrence on a very cold day. On our 
 way back, I fell in with a drunken soldier (^f the 18th 
 Kegiment, who, with the assistance of a corporal of the 
 14th, of the same name as myself, 1 secured, and finally 
 trettinsj: more aid, had taken to the i>uard-rooni. Several 
 men, it appears, have; recently been frozen to death by 
 lying down, when drunk, to sleep on the snow. The 
 sudden ciianu'ein the weather has caused much sufterinii' 
 in the army. One poor fellow, on sentry, had both liis 
 arms frozen, having, incautiously, mountf^d guard with- 
 out his mits. Tw(j men, even in one of <nir hospital-huts. 
 
208 
 
 CANADA AND THE CKDLE.V 
 
 ]); 
 
 h 
 
 waniii'd !>y ;i st«»V(.' in liic criidT, ;iu(l supposri) t" he 
 v<'ry t'iiiui"iiit;ilil(', wcrr actually tVost-liitteii : ami if is 
 said that, in oiu' way or dtlici'. almiit lOOO men iiavc 
 siif'fci'cd. ( )r(lr)'s have liccii issued for tli(> institution ot' 
 a, strict search after stra;4'i;'lers ami drunken men al»sent 
 from cvcnin!;' parade, with a view <d' dinunishinL;' the 
 chance (tf casualties from ex])osure. 
 
 ^ J)<'c. '2'.)fil. — A thaw, and most lovely day. Attended 
 Church Service in tlie niorninii;, and walked in the atter- 
 noon with Cooke to Sebastopol, to see the ruins of tin.' 
 dock demolished hy tin; I^'n-ncli. The town and hai'liour 
 lookeil charnunLj in the hri-^ht sunshine. The demoli- 
 tion had succi'e(led veiy well. 1 <»nly ho{)0 oi'i's may 
 be ecpially siu-cessful. Xo stones flew more than about 
 100 yards, vertically : and the ])iers and walls contiguous 
 to the explosion were ([uite uninjured. The troops were 
 withdrawn early in the niornini;-, to Ix; out of the way, 
 in the event of the enemy's openins^' a lieavy fire. Had 
 another look at the Ivuskies with a telescope. There 
 were about twenty of them collected at (he water's e(lL;'(% 
 close to Vdvt Michael. They ha,ve liuiit a look-out po.sf 
 on the summit of one of their most elevated works. 
 Every time I look on the Northern forts they a[)pear 
 stroni^ei'. Theyseeni beautiful, — constructed and hnished 
 with sh.irpness and <lelicacy. The nii^ht is most lovely. 
 There is a <^-lorious full-moon shining now', and the sky 
 is studded with stars. 
 
 ''Dec. 2()th. — Christmas-day has passed and gone in 
 the Crimea. It was a day without incident worth not- 
 ing. The weather was very fine and mild for the time 
 
 ll^: 
 
CniasTMA.'>i I>AY 
 
 269 
 
 () 
 
 f \ 
 
 (';ir, 
 
 . AttciitK'd 
 
 ;i tlir attrr- 
 uius (if the 
 
 11(1 liMi'lidiir 
 
 'he (IciiKili- 
 
 ot'rs may 
 
 tliaii altniit 
 
 11(1 gone in 
 
 worth iiot- 
 
 or the time 
 
 C( 
 
 We liad service in Hie iiiMniinu', .'hk 
 
 i r. 
 
 Ill 
 
 niipiiiiy with nearly all my lUMtliei- olhei r- m cami), 
 took tlie sacnuiieiit. The iiji'ii of my eoiii|iaiiy had ;i 
 jj-ood Christmas diinicr, of wliid 
 
 I a sinco 
 
 I had 
 
 IVell 
 
 tliem proveil one of the rhief iii^"redi(nt<. 'I'lay had 
 arrani^f'd, and e\-eii decorated a hut Ncry eoiiil'<»rtaI>!y, 
 and Were all seated toL''ethei" round llio Li-ood fare, spre.'ul 
 out on ii coiiph' of loll-;- tallies, when I |»aid my visit. 
 After wisliin!4' them a merry Ciirist mas, and iiKiuirinL;' 
 wlietlier tliey had a '^'owd <linmr, I drank their healths 
 in a glass of slierry. offered me on a glass plate l»y 
 tlie c'olour-serireant. One of the men then called 
 
 out 
 
 Tliree dieers tor ^Iaj<>r I\ai,ken,'" which was 
 Iieartily respondvd to, and in the midst of v.hich I 
 with(h'ew. 
 
 'In tlie afternoon T nceonipani''d Colonel Jient, 
 Ewart, Schaw, ('ooke, Scratchley. and (Jraham to 
 Inkermann. ^\'e \isit(>d the Kngineers' hnrial-ground 
 at the (dd right attack camp, and continued our walk to 
 the redoubts on the heights, oj)posite Inkermann. held 
 bv the French. The view of the town and harlmur of 
 ►Sebastopol from the heights wc were on v.as v^ry fine. 
 Our position at Inkermann seems a naturally strong 
 one; ])Ut there were, I was surprised to find, very few 
 ji'uns mounted in anv of the redoubts we saw. 
 
 'Our Christmas dinner, the component ])a.rts of which 
 were furnished ])y various contributions, had well nigh 
 
 pr 
 
 oved a failure. Fate seemed, in fact, to frown on our 
 
 efforts. A fat turkey, which we had permitted to in- 
 dulge our imaginations with the hope of de\uuii.ig, wa.s 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
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 === : 
 
 
 M 
 
 6" 
 
 ► 
 
 % 
 
 7] 
 
 
 '^^'^' 
 *^.^^' 
 
 
 '/ 
 
 -^ 
 
 Photngraphic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
if 4 
 
 
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•i i 
 
 i 1 
 
 ■! 
 
 I I 
 
 i 1 
 
 270 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 stolen on the 24th, and a hanncli of i^'oat, destiiKMl for 
 the other ''ji'^ice de ri'msiance,''' was likewise uncere- 
 moniously walked off with l)y some scoundrel on Clirist- 
 mas-day itself. When I returned from my walk ;i,t 
 3.30 P.M., I found little or no preparations had been 
 made. Cooks and servants were missing', or the worse 
 for liquor, and our prospects anything but cheeriiio-. 
 A goose and a shouhler of goat supplied tlie missing 
 dishes. I worked like a servant, and laid the table, 
 drew the wine-corks, &c., myself, till shortly after six 
 we had the unexpected satisfaction of hearing, spite 
 of all difficulties and disappointments, dinner was 
 read3\ 
 
 ' Our party was ten in number (Colonel Gordon, 
 Major Kwart, ]\Iajor (>ooke. Major Nicholson, (.'aptain 
 Schaw, Dr. Dowding, Lieutenant Graham, Goi-don, 
 Scratchley, and myself). Our dinner consisted of soup, 
 a goose, a shoulder of goat (nearly raw), a hain, a 
 tongue (bad), a ])reserved chicken (very seedy), and 
 plum pudding, gooseberry tart, and stewed apples. It 
 went off very well on the whole, and was kept up suc- 
 cessfully till between eleven and twelve o'clock. 
 
 * Bee. 2dth. — Cold day; rode in the afternoon with 
 Scratchley to the left of the Russian works, visiting the 
 (Quarantine Fort, and the French batteries erected in its 
 vicinity. It was the first time that I had been to see 
 this portion of the Russian lines. I was struck with the 
 crenated wall, evidently the commencement of a per- 
 manent chain of works lor the defence of the citv. 
 
 Mr 
 
THE LAST DAY OF TKE OLD YEAR 
 
 !:i 
 
 'stincil for 
 id UTiccrc- 
 on Chri.Ht- 
 V wrilk <'i,t 
 
 had been 
 ' the worse 
 b cliccrinL!,'. 
 \w missiiijjj 
 
 the table, 
 :ly after six 
 irinj;-, spite 
 iimier wis 
 
 el Gordon, 
 
 on, Captain 
 
 u, Gordon, 
 
 ted of soup, 
 
 a ham, a 
 
 eedy), and 
 
 apples. It 
 
 apt up sue- 
 
 )ck. 
 
 w 
 
 The Quarantine Fort is a lar<;-e, lon;^', and narrow work, 
 with broad ditches, strongly palisaded, and with revet- 
 ments of bricks formed of clav and straw, veiv neativ 
 built up, and combined with masonry walls. I^'ort Con- 
 stantine appeared quite close to us. The French bat- 
 teries are well-biiilt, and mount a number of '^nn^ and 
 some veiy heavy mortars, 1 tearing to all appearance 
 principally on Fort Constantine. The solidity and tinish 
 of the l\ussian works are as cons|)iciions and admirable 
 here as at all points of their wonderful lines. We 
 Tjassed throuuh the Cemeterv, the scene of a i^reat 
 struggle between the French and Kussians: the irrave- 
 stones were much injured, and the ground strewed with 
 broken stones: there I saw a marble monument to the 
 memory of ]Mrs. I'pton (wife of the English engineer 
 who constructed the Docks) and her two 5"oung children. 
 The inscription was in Englisli and Kussian. 
 
 *In the eveninii' I went to Ewart"s hut, to coiisidt 
 Avith him about ordering some wine, and on my ictuiii, 
 I read a novel called The Ileail of ihe Fainil;/, which I 
 liked on the whole; it is evidently written by a woman, 
 as the insight into female character is very (hn-p, and 
 the delineations are sometimes both delicate a)id beau- 
 tiful. How seldom one meets with the heroines of 
 novels in real life! those pure, loving women whom we 
 picture to ourselves in day dreams, and so ardently 
 wish to encounter. 
 
 'Lee. 'Slst, H.oOp.m. — Ten minutes or less ;nid 1<S.3.> 
 is over. I will not moralise on the subject, but express 
 
 !^ 
 
 kl: 1 
 
\l: 
 
 272 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 51 hearty and fervent wisli tliat IH.jd may l»n)ve a ])ri;^'l\t 
 contrast to this hist eventful yeai". The Kn^>lish papers 
 tell us that Europe is balanced between peace and war. 
 A few days will decide the j;;-reat (piestion, and the 
 destinies of thousands, periiaps millions of human 
 })einu-s. What a state of anxious suspense ! ' 
 
 I ^ 
 
 
(if bmiian 
 
 273 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 THE NEW YEAR. 
 
 ].i: 
 
 '/\UR mess is at length, spite of difficulties and 
 \J struggles, fairly started. I have almost the sole 
 direction of it, and go into " my kitchen " and confer 
 with my cook on the important subject of dinner re- 
 gularly every morning after breakfast. The difficulties 
 of house-keeping are somefhlnf/, wdien, as is often the 
 case, messengers are sent on vain expeditions for four- 
 teen miles or so, over the muddy roads, and return 
 almost empty-handed, — when a cart is two days and a 
 night bringing up some wine from Xazatch bay, — when 
 two journeys to Kamiesch are necessary to procure 
 a dozen scare-crow fowls (at the modest price of 4^. 
 M. each). I am expecting supplies from Baidar, 
 Sinope, Constantinople, and Malta. 
 ' Being the fortunate possessor of a cart and mule of 
 I my own, I manage to accumulate, by a series of efft)rts, 
 ft a certain stock in hand, — a few sheep and goats, some 
 flour, potatoes, &c. ; so that I do not suffer under a 
 
^ |! 
 
 I I 
 
 274 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 daily pressure, and am I'rco to devote my jiowers to tlie 
 iiitiire. Had we to (le|>end on (lovernment sii]>[)lies, we 
 slioidd, even now, have salt [)ork and Ix'i-t" to live on 
 four d;iys out of the seven, and get bread only once or 
 twice a week. 
 
 'The poor French soldiers suffer a gi'eat (lc;il, tln^ugli 
 nothiny; is said of it. There is a vast coiitiast between 
 the conditions of the two armies. Our men l;it, healthy, 
 and both well and warndy ela.d and lod^'ed : the Fn-m h 
 pale, thin, and many of tlaim still under canvas. It is 
 sometimes melancholy to sec; the poor fellows lookiii;^ 
 half starved, though still soldier-like and resolutf, hover- 
 ing about an English camp, in(|uiring anxiously if there 
 is any "^<6t*M<7" to be sold. They are too ])roud to 
 accept it as a gift. I do not think this suffering is uni- 
 versal through the whole French army; but I am sure a 
 great deal of real want ;uid sickness exists, perhaps n(>t 
 more than nught have been expected under the cir- 
 cumstances, l)ut still painful to C(mtrast with our own 
 prosperity and abundance. 
 
 ' Last night, in company with a large gi'oup of 
 Engineer <jfficers, I witnessed some exj)losions in the 
 docks. The charges were fired by galvanic batt'ries, 
 and the result I miderstand is very satisfactory. It 
 was so dark that no one was able, at the time, to see its 
 effect. Our walk home through the liedan, and over 
 rough and difficult groimd, was rather hard work. 
 
 'January 6th. — No incident worth mentioning has 
 occurred within the last two or three days. 
 
 'V^^^'t 
 
KAZ.VTCII BAY 
 
 275 
 
 'Oa January 4tli (my twonty-ciglitli birtliday) Harns- 
 ton (Hiit'd witli me. 
 
 ' Yt'sterday I nnl' with Scratchlcy to Kazntch ])ay, to 
 visit a (U'taclinu'ut of mv (•()ini)aMv at work tlicn'. The 
 load to Kamic'sch was crowdL'd witli Froncli wa'^L^^ons laden 
 with liay, l)r('ad, ^.^c, and we eueouutert'd likewise large 
 parties of soldiers carryinL;' firewood, and strinL:> of mules 
 with chests containing boiled beef, swung over their 
 backs like panniers, — a French soldier here and there, 
 by way of making his animal more contented, sitting 
 complacently on its back, in the ct'utre of the said 
 <;hests, and seemingly well satisfied with his temporary 
 throne. 
 
 ' Kazatch ])ay I liad not seen before. It is a small 
 liarbour. A miniature dockyard, and a few huts occu- 
 pied chiefly by marine guards, or used as stores or 
 offices, are the only buildings visible. Thei'e were two 
 floating batteries, looking like pictures of clumsy 
 solidity, in liarbour. These had arrived from Eng- 
 land subse(|uent to the bombardment of Kinburii. 
 My Sappers are engaged in making landing piers for 
 the navy, and in erecting huts. The wind rose and be- 
 came piercingly cold in the afternoon, and we were not 
 sorry to get to camp again. 
 
 * To-day, after church, I walked witli four or fivf> 
 others for a couple of hours. The whole country is 
 now covered with snow to the depth of a foot or mor<\ 
 The sleiiihinu" would be excellent, were there sleighs to 
 drive. I think of fitting one up. 
 
 T 2 
 
I i 
 
 |) ; 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 ' 
 
 \ 
 
 
 'j:g 
 
 CANADA AND THE CKIMEA 
 
 ' J((u. [2th. — Two days a<;(» I rode with Scratclilcy to 
 Ka!iiar;i, to ])ay ^Nfoiitiij^uo and ICdwards a visit. I 
 ioiiiid the Sardinian army very snui^dy Initted ; tlitir 
 camps perfect models of neatness, and <(ood. Mai;y 
 French rcij^iments were still under canvas. JM-'nta^^ue 
 and Edwards had effected jj^reat im])roveinents in their 
 little settlement. Their " drawing room " was decorated 
 with green fir branches and si)rigs of misletoe ; the 
 initials V. U., with a scroll partially encircling them, 
 giving a loyal air to the apartment. 
 
 'On Tlinrsday I attended a meet, and rode across 
 country on my little mare INIargaret, in a grand paper 
 hunt. The ground was very heavy, and took it out of 
 the horses considerably. My nag carried me excellently 
 well, and took her jumps in a style that excited the 
 admiration of the field. 
 
 ' Last night I ploughed my way, with the assistance 
 of a lantern and a very limited allowance of moon- 
 light, through the mud, to see the Amateur Theatricals 
 of the Fourth Division. The audience were smoking 
 vigorously when we arrived, though the premonitory 
 notes of the orchestra told us we were in timie. We 
 saw, and laughed heartily at, two capital farces, capi- 
 tally acted. The ladies' parts were wonderfully well 
 sustained. The fainting fits and " interesting agitation" 
 were perfect. 
 
rat ell ley to 
 ii visit. 1 
 ted ; tlicir 
 i)(l. M:ii;y 
 JSr-^^'ntamie 
 its ill tlu'ir 
 H decorated 
 sletoe ; tlie 
 :'lin<j^ them, 
 
 rode across 
 ;'raiid paper 
 ok it out of 
 J excellently 
 excited the 
 
 e assistance 
 e of moou- 
 Theatricals 
 re smoking' 
 premonitory 
 time, ^^c 
 arces, capi- 
 erfuUy well 
 g agitation" 
 
 I 
 
 AMATEUR THEATIJICAL^i 
 
 This was the play-hill : — 
 
 THEATRE ROYAL. — Fourth DmsioN, 
 
 This evening Her Majesty's sonants will perform 
 
 TO PARIS AND lUCK FOR £5. 
 
 Mr. Samuel Snozzle 
 Mr. Charles Markiiam 
 SpRiacjixs 
 Lieut. Spike, R.M. 
 Pounce, a detective ojicer 
 Fanny, niece to Sprigoins 
 .Joseph . . . . 
 Guard Superintendent . 
 Clerk of tue Teleorapii 
 
 Mr. Lacy, (i^ird Re<rinienl. 
 Capt. Nicholas, 4(>tlj Regt. 
 Dr. Howard, 2()tli Regt. 
 MR.IlARUiNaTON,RitlrP>ri;.M(le. 
 ]Major Somerville, r.Sth Regt. 
 Mr. Hamoni), 4(5tli Rej>t. 
 Capt. Rlakeney, 4stli Reo-t. 
 Mr. LiaiiT, (58th Regt. 
 Major Womijwell, 4t>tii J{egt. 
 
 To bo followed by 
 BOX AND COX MARRIED AND SETTLED. 
 
 Box, a retired printer 
 
 Cox, a retired hatter 
 
 Mrs. Box 
 
 Mrs. Cox 
 
 Mrs. Bouncer . 
 
 Capt. Earle, 57th R<>pt. 
 Ma.ior Garrett, 4»5tli Re<rt. 
 Mr. Lac , (y-\ri{ Regt. 
 Mr. Saundi;rson, Osth Real. 
 Mr. IIamond, 40th Regt. 
 
 Stage-Manayer. — Major Lord A. G. Russell, Rifle Brigade. 
 
 Prompter. — ^Iajor Wombwell, 4GLh Regiment. 
 
 Scene-Painter. — Mr. Shaw, 21st Fusileers. 
 
 Doors open at half-past Six : performance to commence at Seven 
 
 precisely. 
 

 irs 
 
 CANAKA AM) Till: Clil.MF.A 
 
 |i 1 
 
 I i 
 
 1 
 
 , ', < 
 i 
 
 |;-i: 
 
 ' . i 
 
 i :| 
 
 ! 
 ( 
 
 i ! 
 
 ^ lu 
 
 • Tiusc little ))r(.':il<s in the monotony of rrlnionii life 
 (!>» one i;i>(m1. 'riicrc ''Viis !i iMiiiiour, (•ri<^nniitii)^' iVnui 
 tlic FniH-li iie;i(l-(iuart<'rs ycstiTtlny, thai tlic liussi.m.s 
 iiitcii'lc'd uttackiiiir •mr position at tlavbrcak this morn- 
 ill<^ Tlicv have not done set liuwcvcr. Tlio liriirj; IVoiii 
 t!ie Noith >\\i>n' is nnich slacker than it fornioily was. 
 
 ',hiii. IS/A. — On till! ]C)\]\ we entertained at dinnfi- 
 three Danish and three Spanish officers of engineers and 
 artillery. The ])arty nnnil)ered twenty-one altogether, 
 and passed of[' very well. The seni<jr officers of both 
 ])artii's s.it on eitlier side of onr Colonel. The Spani.ird 
 was a rather formal individual, jxdite and prond, in facf 
 thoronghly Spanish. He spoke with a reseived for- 
 mality, intended doubtless for di«_aiitv, hut which tn 
 Englishmen, accustomed to an almost unreserved 
 freedom of intercourse between all ranks of gentlemen, 
 appeared rather an excess of stiffness. He was, however, 
 polite and gentlemanlike in his bearing, and seemed to 
 enjoy the; entertainment thoroughly in his own (jniet way. 
 
 '■ Of the other dons, one was a lively rattlinglittleCuban, 
 /( CaiiUnnic (V Ai'fiUcrie Villason,who smoked cigarettes 
 and conversed in sprightly manner; the other, quiet and 
 affable, always ready with a smile, and an expression of 
 assent or approval. The Danes were contrasts to these. 
 The chief (whom we nicknamed Canute) smoked 2)hilo- 
 sophically and spoke little. The others were fidl of 
 professions of i)leasure, Otc, and very anxious to obtain 
 information. 
 
 ''Jan. 22 lid. — The rumours of peace which reached 
 the camp yesterday have received still further confirma- 
 
 ' 
 
PROSPKrT OF TFACE 
 
 279 
 
 tion. ('t»I. Frois^art, tlic rMiiim;ni(liiiLC ciii^iiifcr of tlir 
 Fn'iirh Jiriiiy, told Col. (r.tidoii that bo liinisclt' ii;ul 
 soen a (losj»;»tc]i adflrcssod t«» Marslml I'clissicr, statiiiu* 
 that I\iis<i;i h;i<l accepted the terms ottered by the Allies : 
 and be further said that be had Li,iven orders to press 
 forward the deiiiolitioii of the locks and wharves in 
 Sebastop(tl, as the operations iiiiubt at any inranent be 
 siispende(b These are rrrcwt and <4lorions news, if they 
 can be relied on. I most sincerely trust that better 
 and ])riL^diler times are about to dawn upon us. I 
 think the bard fijj^ht lias not been fouLcht in vain — 
 that we have tauf,dit Russia a lesson that she will not soon 
 for<:fct — thrown lier back fifty, perhaps a hun(b-ed, years 
 in her careijr of conquest, which slie so conveniently 
 styles her destiny. 
 
 ' We an^ full of doubts and conjectures as to what 
 may be done next. Though Kn^^laiid may not quite 
 have fulfilled th(^ anticipation of that restless, (>xif/c(fi)f, 
 dissatisfied, and not over wise-portion of her citizens, 
 which mav be desinrnated the John Hull class of her 
 subjects, she occupies, nevertheless, a most imposing 
 attitude at the present moment. Thorougldy roused, 
 tlioroughly in earnest, straining every sinew of h(;r huge 
 frame; with trade and finances most flourishing: with 
 a navy and an army such as, perliaps, she never had 
 before; what, in human probability, would slie not be 
 able to accomplish ? It will, perhaps, be rather difficult 
 to appease, at once, the excitement, and repress the 
 appetite for war, conquests, and glory ; but she will 
 sliow her greatness and self-denial more by forbearing 
 
980 
 
 CANADA AND THE ('IJIMKA 
 
 tliiiii l>y actin<(. I trust most fervently that, if Hiissiii 
 is really in earnest, and wislirs sineerely for peace, this 
 j,M-e;it blessing' may not he lost hy foolish clamour, <,n'fe(lv 
 arnhition, and restless dissatisfaction. If our pride has 
 been a little hund)led, we shall douhtless Ix; hcnetited 
 l)y it. Our overweening^' self-confidence often bordered 
 oil almost insolent arro;jfance. We have h;id our l('ss(»n : 
 as well as the Czar of all tlu' Kussias. 
 
 '•Jan. 24fh. — Last iUL,dit we had a party at mess, 
 eighteen in nund)er, includinn- (rent^ral Harnard, com- 
 manding Second Division, and formerly chief of th(? 
 staff, and General Crawfurd, comniandinir the Hri<^^,de 
 of (luards. The dinner passed off admirably. Tlie 
 Bill of Fare wius as follows : 
 
 rdl.L OF FAIIE. 
 lioj/al U/u/hicn-s' 3Iess, Camp near Schaatopol, Jan. 2'\i-(l, ]8.")«). 
 
 V' ■ 
 
 
 
 ].>■■ 
 
 ' V 
 
 1 ■ 
 
 '■!;■ ■' 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 OTHI.KT SOUP PEA SOUP 
 
 EOAST (iOOSE 
 
 boar'8 hkad green peas haogis 
 
 uoiled leo of mutton 
 i'ork cutlets curry 
 
 roast loin of pork 
 
 STEWED sheep's HEAD GREEN PEAS 
 
 MINCED BEEF AND HAM 
 BEEF STEAK PIE 
 
A SUCCEs».SFUL DINNEIl. 
 
 281 
 
 yncoNi) corusiE 
 
 AITLK I'll; 
 JKLLY HTF.WKI) Ari'Lllrt AND UICi; 
 
 VFUMIti;i,l,I l'LI"I)IN(i 
 RASPBERRY TAUT ROI.Y-I'OI.V ITDDINfi 
 
 APPLE PUFFS MACCARONI AM) CIIEKSF. (IIIIKKV TAUT 
 
 lUCE Pl'DlUNO 
 
 IN PEAS 
 
 ' Genenil Cniwfunl took posessioii of a copy to send 
 home to his friends in Kny^land as a curiosity, and a 
 specimen of wliat the hardshi[)s (»f the Crinica were. 
 His aide-de-camp complimented me on the dinner, and 
 said that "our mess" beat tliat of tlie Grenadier (iuards 
 hoHow, thoui,di tliey spared no expense, and gave tlieir 
 cook 12/. a month. Our cook gets 7/. which one would 
 think finite sufficient for an ordinary mortal. J[e 
 deserves great credit for the manner in which, notwith- 
 standing drawbacks and deficiencies (such as the total 
 absence of eggs, fresh milk, c*v.c. ), he manages to put a 
 dinner on the table. 
 
 * General Barnard confirmed all the reports and state- 
 ments respecting the acceptance by Kussia of the terms 
 offered by the Allies. It is generally believed in tlie 
 army that peace is all but certain. I trust in God it 
 may prove true. It appears almost like a dream to 
 ,hink that the great contest is really over, and tliat 
 before a few mouths have passed, we may find oiu'selves 
 at home again, or in some peaceful colonial garrison. 
 
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 2H2 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 m 
 
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 Supposing even tliat tlie tidings are full}' confirmed, it 
 will take some months before this large army, with its 
 thousands of mules and horses, and innnense accumu- 
 lation of stores and materials can be removed. Tlie 
 (^uartcr-Master-General of the iirmy, I believe, expressed 
 his opinion that six months would be required. What 
 joy iuid gladness will be wafted to the anxious hearts of 
 friends and relatives all over England by these great 
 news ! I shall be truly rejoiced ; and, though I should 
 feel a great interc-^t in a campaign in the field, and 
 l)esides stand chance of furtlier promotion and distinction, 
 I cannot for a moment vvei<>-h these inducements with 
 the liorrors and misery of war. I have been behind 
 the scenes, and seen too much of the iStern renlity, to 
 be caufdit bv such sliadows. How delicflited I shall be 
 to feel I am once more at home ! I have had, of 
 course, many doubts and misgivings as to the chances of 
 my ever seeing any one I loved, or my country again. 
 T have seen so much of death in every shape, that I 
 began to look on my oami existence as hanging 1)y the 
 merest thread, which an}' accident, or apparent accident, 
 might sever. 
 
 ' Death is spoken of with such indifference out here, 
 and ti'eated necessarily as such an ordinary every-day 
 event of war, that one loses in some measure the 
 horror one feels of it in peaceful times. I thought 
 the spectacle of a battle-field would be more dreadful 
 than it really was. I have found the sight of suffer- 
 ing far more distressing than that of doath, and, if 
 anything, more melancholy. 
 
THE ATTITUDE OF ENGLAND 
 
 S83 
 
 ' It is very natural tliat people in England should 
 desire a more brilliant series of successes — some of 
 those ra[>id and decisive strokes which decide the fate 
 of empires, and end a campaign and war at thi^ same 
 moment. As far as we have gone yet, however, I <lo 
 not think England has any great reason to l)e dis- 
 contented with the results of the war. We connneiiced 
 it disorganised and unprepared. We liave fissisted 
 materially, in the short space of two years, in crippling 
 our great adversary and bringing him to our feet. Tn 
 another year, should the war unhappily last, we may 
 look forward with some confidence to his complete 
 abasement and prostration. What more could wt> wish, 
 or expect ? I am fully con\inced that the wdiole of 
 this campaign will be regarded with very different eyes 
 by the next generation. 
 
 * Now the war seems virtually over. Peace is on 
 every one's lips — and though the military glory and 
 prestige of England might possibly be increased by 
 another campaign, and her sensitive spirit of honour 
 satisfied — the army generally, and I hope the majority 
 of thinking men in England, welcome the prospect 
 of a cessation of hostilities with real satisfaction. 
 The attitude of England, too, at the present moment, 
 could not well be more dignified and imposing than 
 it is. Our great floating batteries have not, as yet, 
 measured their strength against the enemy. We had 
 two of them out the other day, and there was a fine 
 opportunity for an experimental trial against the, as 
 yet, scatldess walls of Fort Constantine. 
 
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 2{»4 
 
 CANADA AND THE CKIMEA 
 
 ' The Russians seem always to be on the qui vive. 
 They \v[itch all our movements with jealous vigilance, 
 and their guns and mortars continually send forth their 
 warning notes, reverberating through the wild ravines, 
 and even shaking the huts of our encampment. We 
 never reply. The fire does us little damage, and does 
 not impede our operations. The docks are totally 
 destroyed. I am at present superintending operations 
 for the demolition of the great barracks. They are 
 mined, and the charges would be ready to fire in two 
 or three days if the order was given so to do ; but 
 General Codrington is averse to these extreme mea- 
 sures ; and should negotiations take a favourable turn, 
 the order which would consign several ranges and 
 blocks of valuable and imposing buildings to destruc- 
 tion may never be given. Still we .are directed to have 
 everything prepared, and a large party of sappers and 
 infantry are daily at work. I am afraid that it would 
 be next to impossible to achieve any decisive success 
 against the tremendous lines of forts and batteries held 
 by the Russians on the north shore. Every hillock, 
 almost every slope, bristles with cannon. The gunners 
 are constantly on the alert. A broad, deep harbour 
 intervenes, and in a military point of view the Russian 
 position on the harbour is unassailable. Further on 
 along the line of the Mackenzie heights the prospect 
 cannot be said to be better. The heights themselves 
 present an almost insurmountable obstacle. They can 
 neither be assaulted in front nor turned. They can only 
 be taken in reverse ; and this cannot be done unless we 
 
PRErAKING TO DESTROY WHITE BARRACKS 
 
 285 
 
 tment. We 
 e, and does 
 
 embark our army and land again at Eupatoria, or at 
 some point on the western coast of the Crimea. 
 
 * Februai'y \st. — I am very busily occupied just at 
 present. I hfive been ordered to prepare a project for 
 the immediate demolition of the huge white Russian 
 Barracks in Sebastopol (which figure so conspicuously 
 in every view of the city), and have actually already 
 commenced the destruction of a portion. General 
 Codrington has given orders for the southern range 
 (the roof and woodwork of which has been destroyed by 
 fire) to be blown up ; and I have had permission to 
 make a variety of experiments in mining and ])lasting 
 while effecting its demolition, and have had 12,()()() lbs. 
 of gunpowder and 120 sappers placed at my disposal. 
 The southern range is about 584 feet in Icm^-th, and 
 exactly corresponds in every respect with the northern. 
 It faces the interior of the Kedan, while the other looks 
 towards the harbour. There is a very long row of 
 buildings, occupying tlie western side of the great 
 square, which is also to be included in my project, and 
 a number of small buildings and offices, already mort; 
 or less injured in the centre. To-day I blew up about 
 100 feet of the southern building by blasting and min- 
 ing, using only 100 lbs. of powder. The demolition 
 was complete, not one stone being left on another. 
 
 ' I feel interested in the work, though it gives me 
 some trouble, and necessitates an early breakfast and 
 a ride to Sebastopol, and back in all weathers. I send 
 in reports almost daily, for the information of the 
 General Commanding-in-Chief, who takes a great deal 
 
 'I 
 
28fi 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 J \ 
 
 i !' «' 
 
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 1 
 
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 of interest in explosions and demolitions, and was very 
 regular in his attendance to witness the destnietiou of 
 the d(jcks. It appears strange to go on with these- 
 hostile operations when the cry of peace has gone forth, 
 hut I quite approve of what is ))eing done towards such 
 a treacherous enemy as Ilussia. 
 
 * The Russians the other night, wdien it was almost 
 pitch dark, sent five or six boats towards the south 
 shore. These were perceived (it is said l)y the French), 
 and fired into. The Russians replied by one of tlie 
 most terrific cannonades I have ever seen from their 
 whole line of batteries on the north shore. Our troops 
 in Sebastopol all turned out under arms, but no attempt 
 was made to land. The cannonade was maintained fur 
 upwards of an hour w^ith the greatest fury. Its effect 
 from Cathcart's Hill was very fine ; the flashes lit up 
 the whole horizon, and there were sometimes five or six 
 shells in the air at the same time. I have not seen 
 such a fire, except at the great bombardments of the 
 siege, and even then, though maintained longer, were 
 scarcely of the same vehement character. The shot 
 and shell fell all over the town, but did very little 
 miscliief. Everyone is at a loss to account for this 
 vindictive and useless display at a time when the 
 whole world l)reathes peace. 
 
 * I was nearly all to-day in Sebastopol, and between 
 my duties there, and those as captain of a company and 
 treasurer and caterer of the mess, had not a minute to 
 myself all day long. We are waiting very anxiously 
 for news of peace or war : suspense is most paralysing. 
 
OUR SHARE IN THE CAMPAIGN 
 
 •28: 
 
 *I do not admit, witli tlie very exl(jeant ])ritisli 
 public, that the Englisli army has not done its sliare in 
 the campaign. If it is expected tliat 4(),()()() im n 
 should do as much as I.jO.OOO, I admit it has not Ijih-u 
 done ; but if even much moi'e tiiau a fair proportion is 
 demanded, I tiiink that demand is satisfactorily imt. 
 We won tlie ])atties of Alma, and lukerman, or bore 
 nearly the whoh; brunt of both ; and hist winter, with 
 our miseralily reduced force, in spite of most teiritic 
 sufferings and wholesale mortabty, we lichl and main- 
 tained a very extensive and exposed positi(»u. Our 
 only check was the last assault on the Kcdiin — a 
 position which the J^ritish })ublic would probably ii;ive 
 carried, but which, in the opinion of experienced 
 military men, was almost unassailable. It seems to be 
 entirely forgotten, also, that the French took t'le 
 3Ialakhoff entirely by surprise, and that in all tli(;ir 
 other attacks by open force, even the one on a simple 
 curtain near the ^Nlalakhoff, they were completely 
 repulsed. 
 
 ' I think it is a pity tliat such unfounded complaints 
 should be made ; though everyone concerned should 
 know Ikjw to appreciate the d!scriiiilit(Uiu(j praise o- 
 censure of John Bull. 
 
 'Tlie other day the French blew up Fort Nicholas 
 with about 120,000 lbs. of powder; the explosion was 
 magniticent, and the demolition most complete. 1 wit- 
 nessed it in company with Cols. Gordon, l\ose, iV.e., 
 from the terrace in front of the " White IJuihlings." 
 General Froissart commanding the French " Corps do 
 
Ii I 
 
 1. 
 
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 1 
 
 
 11- 
 
 ^1 
 
 288 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 Genio," was present also, and I was introduced to him, 
 subsecjuently, as the officer charjijed with tlie demolition 
 of the barracks. He is a very fine looking fellow ; he 
 commanded the French Plnfjineers at the sie<>:e of 
 Kome. 
 
 ' Our weather, though variable, is mild on the whole : 
 and the winter here, if one were snug in a house, is a 
 great deal finer than the general winters of England. 
 
 ' I have now two subalterns of Engineers employed 
 under me ; and expect that preparations will shortly bo 
 completed for the destruction of the whole barracks, 
 should a sudden order arrive directing us to do so. 
 
 ' I think the war may be considered over ; the desire 
 for peace is too palpable, and too clearly shown by thr 
 French, and Austrians, to be mistaken. Wh atever we may 
 say, we must yield in some measure. I only trust that 
 the great vital points may not be lost sight of; if they 
 are gained I shall be glad of peace, notwithstanding all 
 our preparations for war, — for what is the object of wai- 
 but to establish and secure peace on a right basis ? Our 
 having built ships, cast guns, and called out soldiers, is 
 surely not a sufficient reason for deluging the world 
 with blood ! Let those who talk loudest come out and 
 see what they think of the real thing. Still I want no 
 hollow peace ; and I almost think another campaign 
 might obtain every result we long for, and perhaps be 
 of great advantage to Europe a hundred years hence. 
 It is generally thought out here that the game is up. 
 
 ' The armistice is a bad thing ; we should insist most 
 peremptorily on its being of the shortest duration. If 
 
THE WHITE BUILDINGS 
 
 289 
 
 the neiiiotiations fail, tliore is littlo doubt but tliat the 
 re-estal)lis}miont of our prestige in Asia by the recapture 
 of Kars will be one of our first acts. 
 
 'The country is ^vil(l, beautiful and interesting;", but 
 the climate I fear not over healthy. The present is a 
 most ;mxious crisis for all of us. What a nund)er of 
 fates h;nig on a tlu'ead ! 
 
 ' Fl'I). loth. — Since my last entry I have been en- 
 ijaijed in various duties, the chief beinLj the demolition 
 of portions of the White }]uildings or large Russian 
 barracks in Sebastopol, and I have made a variety of 
 experiments in blasting, mining, c^c, all of which have 
 as yet succeeded well enough. 
 
 ^ Feb. I5lh. — On ^Monday I again returned to my 
 labours at the White Buildings; had an explosion in 
 the afternoon, at which a hirge number of French and 
 spectators were present. Tried the experiment of con- 
 necting the charges by powder hose under ground ; 
 it did not answer, and the whole explosion was a 
 failure, to my great mortification. 
 
 'On Tuesday, however, by an alteration in the 
 arrangement, I blew up and demolished great portion 
 of the wall experimented on. 
 
 ' Wednesday I sjient up in camp, visiting the Laud 
 Transport Corps, and giving directions for the formation 
 of a f]-esh watering place; 
 
 'Feb. '22nd. — On a court-martial, on INTonday, Tues- 
 day, and Wednesday. Have been several times to 
 Sebastopol. The operations for the dcmoliti«jn of tlie 
 White Buildings progress rapidly. The northern range 
 
 u 
 
S90 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 I, l! 
 
 M \ 
 
 vl -i] I 
 
 V I 
 
 lias ])een mined throughout, shafts having been sunk, 
 or chambers formed in the walls, according to circum- 
 stances, for the destruction of the whole buildinf% 
 vaults, partition walls, &c. 
 
 * We have had several days of most severe frost, 
 the thermometer at head-quarters near zero in the 
 morning, and a sharp piercing wind from the north. 
 To-day it is quite warm, and half a gale of wind bl()w- 
 ing from the south, making doors creak, and tents 
 flap. 
 
 * Our news from England are that the Peace Confer- 
 ence will assemble about the end of the month, and that 
 the armistice, when signed, will probably extend to the 
 31st of March. 
 
 * The French seem very sanguine respecting peace, 
 and it is even rumoured that the Emperors of Eiissia 
 and Austria will pay a visit to Paris, when the negotia- 
 tions have terminated : the former visit I should think 
 improbable. 
 
 * On Wednesday last, we entertained six sergeants of 
 Sappers who had obtained tlieir promotion into the 
 Land Transport Corps. My old Colour-Sergeant Falk- 
 ner was one of the party. The dinner passed off very 
 well, and the " cornets " seemed to enjoy themselves. 
 We sang a portion of God save the Queen, as a wind up 
 — no man recollected the whole.' 
 
291 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE LAST DEATH IN THE CRIMEA. 
 
 AN tlie 28th of February, less than a week after the 
 ^ last entry in his Journal, the aceident which 
 deprived my brother of life took place. 
 
 The following is Sir William Codrington's dispatch 
 to Lord Panmure, giving official intelligence of his 
 death : — 
 
 ' Sebastopol, Feb. 20th. 
 ' My Lord, 
 
 ' I regret extremely to have to inform your Lord- 
 ship of the death of Major Ranken, of the Royal 
 Enjjfineers. 
 
 ' He had the superintendence of the operations 
 necessary for the destruction of the large White Ear- 
 racks, in the Karabelnaia, where part of the mines were 
 fired yesterday afternoon, but several of them did not 
 explode. 
 
 'Major Ranken, in the energetic performance of 
 his duty, seems to have proceeded to light the fuse 
 again in several places where the connexion had failed. 
 It appears the powder hose, as well as the fuse ignited, 
 
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 S93 
 
 CANADA AND THE CltlMEA 
 
 tli(3 t'Xj»l(jsii.ri took plnrc, utid Ijuricd liiin under the 
 ruins of part of the wall. 
 
 ' Kncrj^etit* efforts were made at once to discover 
 tlH> body, and tlie removal of tlie ruins l)ei;<'in and con- 
 tinued tlirou;;-liout tlie ni^lit. This morning the body 
 was found. Deatli nuist have beeu inmiediate ; and tluis 
 this excellent and jj^allant officer, who had done j^ood 
 duty in the siege, and at the assault of the Kedau, lost 
 his life from eagerness to complete the work entrusted 
 
 to him. 
 
 *I have, &c., 
 
 ' W. J. CODRINGTON, 
 
 * General Commandinf^ 
 ' The Lord Panrauro, &c.' 
 
 Colonel Gordon, of the Royal Engineers, (now 
 Colonel Gordon, C.B., Deputy Adjutant-General,) 
 wrote on the same day to a near connection of our 
 family, a letter, which, by his kind permission, I 
 insert. 
 
 li:^^- 
 
 li,*' 
 
 i!i.-' 
 
 Sir, 
 
 ' Camp, Sevastopol, Feb. 29th, I80G. 
 
 'I presume that a telegraphic communication lias 
 reached you of the death of Major Kanken, Koyal En- 
 gineers. This very sad event occurred yesterday, the 
 28th instant, at about p.m. 
 
 ' To him ^vas intrusted the demolition of the large 
 Naval Barracks, called the " WTiite Buildings." 
 
 * At about half-past 4 p.m. on the 28th, the mines 
 w^ere fired. 
 
COLONEL GORDON S LETTER 
 
 203 
 
 I niidcr tlu- 
 
 ite : and thus 
 
 * Several of tlie mines in one buildinjx liaviiiLr 
 missed fire, Major I\anken made fri-sli iirran^'cmenls 
 for firing' them, — lie himself takinj,' up a position in the 
 interior of tlie buihlinj,', to fire one set of mines. 
 
 *I was on the outsich* of tlie hnihling, close to liim. 
 With a lig'ht in his hand, he ealled to the men to run 
 away as fast as possible, for there was oidy a minute 
 for them to escape. He stooped down, and lighted the 
 train. T supposed tliat he had attached to the focus of 
 the powder hoses a length of I'ickford's fuso of a) tout 
 a yard, which is calculated to burn for al)out Ji minute, 
 the time ho allowed himself for escape out of the 
 buildinir. 
 
 ' But no sooner had he applied liis light than (froni 
 what cause I know not) I saw the running fire and 
 smoke of the ignited hose. 
 
 * The crash and fall of the walls and roof followed 
 almost immediately. 3Ien crept wherever they could 
 into the ruins to listen for sounds of life, but alas ! 
 none were heard. A working party was immediately 
 put on, and search w^as continued by reliefs of men 
 durin<j: the w^hole night, until about eight o'clock this 
 morning, when his body was found. His death must 
 have been instantaneous. 
 
 'This very melancholy event, coming at a time 
 when we were all so well, and had been so long without 
 a casualty, has cast a gloom over us that I can compare 
 to no other but that which followed the announcement 
 of poor Leving's death in Bulgaria. As then, so now, 
 there are not the distractions of war to witlidraw our 
 
> \ ';'} 
 
 294 
 
 CANADA AM) THE CltlMKA 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
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 lhoui,']its from hroodiii*,' over siicli ;», sudden fuid ;i\vful 
 lesson of'tlie imeert!iint_v (»f"limii;m life. 
 
 ' IvMiikeii liiid ese.'iped the perils of tlie sicj^c. On 
 the ineniondtle Htli of Sej)teiiilier, liy liis cool coiiraj^'e 
 Mild intrepid ze;d, Ik won u iinnie f(»r liiniself in tin's 
 ;irniy, miuI <>n that day too, he, hy his i^-jdlaiit hearinus 
 coiitrihuted to raise the reputation of that eorps which 
 now laments over the untimely death of one of the l)L'st 
 and the bravest. 
 
 'The sorrow that is felt in this eamp has spread far 
 and wide to other camjis, tor he was ij^reatly esteemed, 
 and especially in his own (the '5rd) Division. 
 
 'General Sir William Kyn^, commandiuL,' that 
 Division, and many ofTieers of distinction, will attend 
 the funeral to-morrow. We will hury him side by side 
 with those wlio have <;one before him. The burial 
 place is on tlie left bank of the ravine, at tlu^ bottom <jf 
 which is CareeninL!; Hay, and its tup the Windmill. The 
 spot is not (pute 400 yards below the mill, and a little 
 below the Engineers' cMicampment, Ivight Attack. His 
 brother oflficers would have iTected a stone to his memorv, 
 but I know that this will be done i)y the non-commis- 
 sioned officers and men of his company ; and nnich as 
 we desire to do him honour, wx» will give way to the 
 men. 
 
 * A good, a kind, and a just officer ho was, and 
 greatly w^as he beloved by them. INIany years his senior, 
 I cannot boast of having been amoncfst his most inti- 
 mate friends ; but for some time j^ast I have been his 
 immediate Commanding Officer, and I hope, his friend, 
 
COLONKL (.oKDonV I.KTTKR 
 
 2!>rj 
 
 •11 juid jiwfiil 
 
 mid r (•;iTi truly s.'iy from mvHrlf aiid nil my ])n)tlu'r 
 officers, tlutt In; left hclilnd liim ;i iiniiu' tlmt will loii<4 
 1)L' rciricmlK'nd, and will never l»e mentioned Imf with 
 honour. 
 
 *Jfe liad i^rf'at attainments, threat zeal, and lie was 
 an officer of ajuiroveil coiira^^-; kind and clieerfnl, lie 
 endeared himself to all. Uespected and a.dnnre(l lor 
 his Ixiievoleiice, and for his tridv Christian cmidnct ; 
 his ])rother officers hav«' a llrm liojte that he has been 
 found worthy of the heavenly inheritance. 
 
 *This will liL,diten our j^rief, and may (Ictd, in his 
 ause it to lirini,' consolation to you, and t(» all 
 
 mercv, 
 
 vvlio mourn so arc 
 
 !it a 1 
 
 OSS. 
 
 ' Yours very truly, 
 
 *.I. W. (JoKnoN, 
 ^Capt. Ivoyal Knginocrs, and Cohjiicl. 
 ' Licut.-Col. At^kwith, 11. A.' 
 
 My l)rother was huried on Smulay, ]\Iarcli the 2nd. 
 A correspondeut of the J)<ii/i/ X<'.ii\^ descri])es his 
 funeral, and the generous sympathy exhibited by his 
 brother officers. 
 
 ' Sebastnpol, ^hm.-h 4lli. 
 
 * The funeral of tlie late Major Kanken, K.K., was, 
 on account of the weather, postponed from Saturday to 
 Sunday afternoon at two o'cU)ck. He was buried at tlie 
 Eiglit Attack burial-ground of the Engineers, near the 
 famous milk Round this piece of ground a stone wall 
 has been built, and wdthin tlie euclo.sure eleven (officers 
 
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 296 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 of Engineers are buried, viz., Colonel Alexander ; Cap- 
 tains Craigie, King, Crofton, Jesse, Dawson ; liieiiteu- 
 ants JNIurray, Bainbrigge, Lowry, Carter, and (Iraves ; 
 besides three Artillery officers, viz., Captain Gordon 
 and Lieutenants jNIitchi'll and Luce. A tombstone has 
 been erected to the memory of Captain higlis, R.E., 
 who was drowned in the Prince on the 14th of No- 
 vember, 1854. In addition to these officers, all the 
 Sappers wdio were killed in the Right Attack, or died in 
 the Eight Attack camp up to the commenci'ment of last 
 August, have been likewise buried here, and a very 
 handsome stone monuiment has been placed by their 
 comrades to their memory. At the funeral, which was 
 one of the largest in the Crimea, most of the officers 
 following rode ; this w'as necessary on account of the 
 distance and the nuid. The body was carried on a gun- 
 carriage, preceded by a firing party of the 8ap)K>ys, and 
 four bands of the 3rd Division, being followed by 
 Colonel Gordon and his brother officers, Colonel Lloyd 
 and staff, a large number of Artillery and Infantry 
 officers, and lastly, by his General, Sir William Eyre 
 and staff. ]\[ajor Ivanken was attached as engineer to 
 the 3rd Division, although he was temporaril}- employed 
 in destroying the \Miite Buildings, where he met his 
 death in so melancholy a manner.' 
 
 jNIany were the high eulogiums that sul)sequently 
 appeared in^ various Newspapers, from amongst which 
 I select the following from the MonuiKj Fust and 
 the Times. 
 
 r ■ 
 
EXTRACTS FROM ^'EWSPA^ERS 
 
 29: 
 
 The ]\[nrning Post. 
 ' The late MAJOR GEORGE RANKEN, R.E. 
 
 'Two (lays ago our oMtiiiiiy contained tlii.s notice — 
 '•'On the 28th ult., killed at Sebastopol, by an accidental 
 explosion, Major George Kanken, Royal Engineers, 
 aged 27, deeply lamented." ]Major Kanken, a few 
 months ago, volunteered for service in the Crimea, and 
 had the good fortune to escape without injury from the 
 attack ujDon the Kedau, in whicli he led the party en- 
 trusted with the carrying of the scaling-ladders. When 
 he arrived in the Crimea, he held merely tlie rank of 
 Lieutenant, but having succeeded to a company by a 
 death vacancy, his galhnit conduct, in leading the 
 storming party in the memorable attack which we have 
 mentioned, led to his promotion to the rank of ^lajor 
 " for distingidshed services in the field." The honour 
 which he thus nobly won, it has not been permitted 
 him, by the decrees of an all-wise Providence, long to 
 enjoy. His death will be lamented by the distinguished 
 corps of which he was an ornament — ^l^y his friends, 
 who can only be sustained under their unexpected and 
 melancholy bereavement by the knowledge, that every 
 grace which elevates and dignifies the Christian charac- 
 ter were united in this gaUaut and accomplished gentle- 
 man. ^Nlajor Ranken served for several years in 
 Canada, and Avhen, in the autunm of 18o4, the cholera 
 broke out in that province, at his own expense he 
 
f' (■ 
 
 298 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 I r 
 
 ,|:i 
 
 ii 
 
 printed and circulated the instructions that had been 
 issued by the Board of Health in this country, in the 
 hope of staying the ravages of that fearful pestilence. 
 In no place more than in Canada will his loss be de- 
 plored, where his virtues and his amiability will long be 
 held in remembrance. On his return to this country 
 he was detached to inspect the fortifications in Scot- 
 land, but not desiring to enjoy that ease to which his 
 colonial service entitled him, he volunteered for the 
 Crimea, where he arrived in time to participate in the 
 glories of that army which he loved so well, and to find 
 a premature grave. He took a lively interest in all 
 matters connected with his profession, and these columns 
 have been the means of conveying to the public many 
 valuable suggestions from his pen calculated to promote 
 the efficiency of the army. He has met a soldier's 
 death — not by the hands of the enemy, but by an un- 
 foreseen and melancholy accident ; but his name will 
 long be affectionately remembered by his friends, by 
 his companions in arms, and, we would fain hope, by a 
 grateful country.' 
 
 I' i 
 
 
 The Times, Fridaij, March ^\st, 185G. 
 
 ' It is with the sincerest regret that I record the death 
 of a most amiable young man and gallant officer — 
 Major George Ranken, of the Koyal Engineers, who v/as 
 killed in the zealous discharge of his duty at the explosion 
 of the Wliite Buildings on Thursda}'- evening last. The ac- 
 cident occurred at the south-western corner of the edifice. 
 
 II : i 
 
 I 
 
THE TOIES' ' SPECIAL CORrESrONDENT ' 
 
 299 
 
 and h;is Leen related to me as follows : — A mine havin-j: 
 failed to explode, and some minutes having elapsed, 
 Major Ranken sent his men to a distance, and himself 
 entered the place to renew the train, scatterinj^ loose 
 powder over it. P'rom the position in wdiieh his corpse 
 was found, it is supposed tliat he had completed his 
 perilous task, and was ahout getting through a window, 
 when the explosion tok place, and the building fell in. 
 His arm was broken, and there were injuries to the 
 skull and spine, Avhich must have occasioned instant 
 death. Army Works Corps men dug f(n' his Ijody until mid- 
 night on Thursday ; they were then relieved by Sappers. 
 The b(jdy was not extricated imtil past eight o'clock 
 on Friday morning. The unfortunate officer was buried 
 yesterday, with military honours, a,t the Engineers' Ceme- 
 tery, Left Attack. He was followed to the grave by 
 General Eyre, commanding the Third Division ; h\ 
 Colonel Lloyd, commanding the Royal Engineers ; and 
 by a large niunlier of officers of his own corps and of 
 other arms. INLajor Ranken, as you will doubtless re- 
 member, commanded the ladder party in the attack on 
 the Redan. He was a most promising officer, a great 
 favourite with his comrades, and his loss is deplored by 
 all who knew him. It was hard to have escaped the 
 murderous fire of the 8th of Se2:»tember only to die, 
 less than six months later, crushed beneath a shattered 
 wall. If peace be now definitely made, Major Ranken 
 will, perhaps, have the melancholy distinction of being 
 the last Englishman killed in the Crimea. The last 
 Frenchman killed here, up to this date, fell in a duel. 
 
/ .■ ' 
 
 :i 
 
 ■Ni 
 
 ! ■ ! 
 
 300 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 Two French officers, who have gone through the whole 
 war unwounded, ({iiarrelled the other day and f(.)nght 
 with sabres ; one was killed, and the other was so badly 
 hurt that he is not expected to live.' 
 
 These extracts will suffice to show the deptli and 
 universality of the regret and grief felt by those ac- 
 ([uainted with his noble character and actions, and 
 such, with very numerous private letters, bear precious 
 testimony to his worth and good deeds. 
 
 The commencement of the Journals (from which I 
 liave extracted must of Avliat is contained in this 
 volume) date from February, 1853. Written b}' my 
 brother exclusively for his o\vn inspection, they contain 
 many touching reflections on the existence of imperfec- 
 tions in his disposition (known frequently only to him- 
 self) ; many earnest \vishes for growth in grace : many 
 unselfish projects of future usefulness, and many self- 
 rejjroaches on account of neglected opportunities. They 
 exhibit the workings of a mind singularly devoid of 
 self-interested motives, full of humility, generosity, 
 sincerity, and truth. I shrink from dilating in any 
 degree on matters of a private personal character, such 
 as are many Avhich with a most sad pleasure I have 
 read, and which in my opinion should never be made 
 known but to most dear and intimate friends, to those 
 who in life w^ere especially beloved and confided in. 
 
 Without any departure from such a rule, there are, 
 I find, some observations written in the months of 
 February and April, 1855, which 1 shall insert liere, as 
 giving probably a better idea of my brother's character 
 
 1 
 
REFLECTIONS ON AVAR 
 
 301 
 
 and feelings than any feeble tlescription of my own 
 would succeed in doinfj:. Tliev are these — 
 
 ' How great are the horrors of war, and what an 
 anomaly and paradox it is I — affording an outlet for 
 the worst and most degrading passions which curse 
 human nature, and at the same time for the display of 
 the greatest and noblest qualities which dignify and 
 adorn the jiosition of man on earth. 
 
 ' Still, taking it all in all, what a mighty curse it is ! 
 David preferred Pestilence to War, saying that he would 
 rather fall into the hands of God than into the hanus 
 of man. 
 
 ' Those who fall on the field of battle are perhaps 
 the happiest of war's victims — happier, one would 
 almost think, than the poor wretches who, struck down, 
 or blighted in the prime of youth, drag out a wretched 
 existence with mutilated })odies, and shattered constitu- 
 tions — happier far than those loved ones who mourn, 
 and will not be comforted, for whom the future is a 
 dismal blank, through which they may, by the grace of 
 Grod, be permitted to see the cheering star of religion, 
 but which they hail only as the presage of immortality, 
 and the escape from the burden of life. 
 
 ' What is my own position now, and how is it affected 
 by the war? I am an officer in the army, liable to be 
 called upon at any time to expose my life, and devote 
 all the energy and ability I possess to the service of ni}- 
 country ; God grant that I may do so readily and cheer- 
 fully. Still, admitting this stern necessity, how are my 
 prospects of happiness affected by its very existence V 
 
302 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ii 
 
 ' 
 
 r , 
 I 
 
 \l\ 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 11 
 
 It 
 
 ' 
 
 
 I!? 
 
 i 
 
 
 \ ' 
 
 
 ■i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 §: 
 
 
 ! , 
 
 p: ' 
 
 I can scarcely for a moment feel composed or tranquil 
 in mind, for my thoughts are ah'jays with the army. 
 
 ' I feel it would be almost unworthy to enjoy life in 
 the midst of its sufferings; my mind would he rather 
 quieted by sharing them, great and appalling though 
 they be. Then w*hat are the chances of war ? Wliat 
 are my prospects if I do go out ? Death, mutilation, 
 disease : and the reward for all or any of these a fleet- 
 ing glory, and the sense that I have been struck down, 
 or sacrificed in the path of duty or honour. 
 
 ' These are times in which every man has to bear his 
 burden. God grant that Englishmen may so bear 
 theirs as to shed a lustre over their country, and to 
 increase the respect of nations for right and justice. 
 
 * The question which, in my opinion, w^e should all 
 ask ourselves is, " What good can I do in this world be- 
 fore I go hence, and am numbered with the things that 
 were?" What I wish is to be filled with a fine 
 enthusiasm, an onward pressing feel'ag which will bear 
 me up and carry me tlirough difficulties, danger, and 
 opposition — an enthusiasm for whatever is right, noble, 
 lovely, and of good report. I should wish to be filled 
 to overflowing with an intense sympathy for all that is 
 suffering, oppressed, bowed down, isolated, stricken, and 
 comfortless ; a yearning and a longing to bind up the 
 wounds of the broken-hearted— to pour comfort into 
 the breast of the comfortless — to remove the heavy bur- 
 then from the shoulders of those who strive honestly 
 and nobly — to whisper encouragement into the heart 
 that desponds. And I should \.i^ii. no less to drink in 
 
WANT OF SYMPATHY 
 
 303 
 
 and enjoy to the uttermost the beauty of all things in 
 nature and in art — to read their meanings, and to com- 
 prehend the eloquence of their silent Ian<^ua*fe — to 
 possess a soul unfettered and uncramped, free to tliink, 
 feel, and love ; to feel that I liad a spirit within me 
 fresh as it were from the hand of the Great Creator. I 
 should wish, too, for the greatness of mind which would 
 recognise merit wherever I met with it, and do all 
 honour to it even when it might he despised by all else. 
 I should wish also, if it were possible, to pass through 
 life without sneering at, or ridiculing anything, or to 
 ridicule only in the sense of wholesome sarcasm or plea- 
 sant banter. 
 
 * There appears to me to be a dreadful, stiff, stereo- 
 typed monotony among men ; somehow or other they 
 never unburthen themselves to one another freely and 
 fully. There is always an inner consciousness which 
 but too frequently belies the outward word and action ; 
 there is a want of sympathy between soul and soul. 
 For instance, people talk of what they neither think, 
 feel, nor care about, except perhaps transiently, and 
 each knows that the other mind is occupied with 
 thoughts at variance with the common-places, the fri- 
 volities, or the measured formalities which he (^r she 
 may be uttering. This of course is not always so, but it 
 occurs too often, and tends to kill, strangle, and sup- 
 press much that is good, noble, and true in us. J^ulwer 
 says, and I fear too justly, that the souls of few are 
 known even to their most intimate friends — that if a 
 
 
li 
 
 304 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 man tried to express wliat was in him, and to awaken 
 sympathy for his tlioughts and feelings even in the 
 breast of those who h)ved liini most, he wonld l)e mis- 
 understood and considered tedious ; he would fail to 
 obtain what he sougiit, and shrink back into himself 
 
 again. 
 
 I.) i 
 
 ' How strange this is ! It seems as thougli the soul 
 could hold intimate communion with none hut God 
 alone. God has that insight into us which man cannot 
 have, and God loves us all witli an infinite love, and 
 sympathizes with us with an infinite sympathy. If we 
 cannot — and we certainly cannot — meet with what we 
 seek for from men, we draw nearer to God, and give 
 Him our whole heart with all its imperfections, and its 
 unanalvzed chaos of thought and feeling.' 
 
 In the beginning of the year 1855, I find the fol- 
 lowing, on the position of many unmarried women in 
 England : — 
 
 ' Though women seem to live at ease, theirs is too 
 often a life of very painful dependance. "We do not 
 sufficiently appreciate the merit of many of them in 
 keeping " the straight path," when they yearn for sym- 
 pathy, and meet with nothing but indifference and 
 contempt f'om the hard, cold, selfish world. Religion 
 can be their only consolation under all these evils, and 
 happily a woman's mind is so constituted that she turns 
 to religion more naturally and readily than a man. She 
 accepts its doctrines with simplicity, and unquestioning 
 confidence. It never occurs to her to arrjue the 
 matter. She finds that which fills her wounded spirit 
 
 'i: I 
 
BRITISH AMERICAN LEGION 
 
 805 
 
 to overflowing — perfect love, perfect sympathy, per- 
 fect {ijoodaess. She asks no more. AVhat a blessiufj 
 religion proves when thus received I 
 
 * A man's pride and self-sufficiency ; tlie impurity of 
 his mind, produced by the rough jostling with im- 
 purity and crime he is exposed to in his progress through 
 life, his natural desire for reasons and proofs of what 
 he hears ; his distrust of other men, from his painful 
 experience of the internal governing principle of intense 
 selfishness which actuates them in their every-day 
 dealings with one another, all combine to form l)arriers 
 in his mind against the holy light and blessed influence 
 of religion.' 
 
 In the same year he wrote thus to a friend in Canada, 
 suirefesting the enrolment of a I^rit" 'h American lecjion 
 to assist their countrymen in the East. Some of his 
 remarks are singularly appropriate just now : 
 
 ' I hope that Canada will raise three or four Pnjvincial 
 regiments, and put herself in a position to bid doHance 
 to Yankee filibustering. She would feel her own self- 
 respect increased by being self-dependant and self- 
 reliant, and her people would be prouder of her and 
 be n:^re pleased to be called her citizens. Canada has 
 given so many proofs of her loyalty, and attachment to 
 the British Crown, that it is unfair to her to suppose 
 that she would be unwillinof to make some sacrifice at 
 the present crisis, and that she would not rej(jice to aid 
 the gallant old mother country in the hour of need. 
 But any movement on her part towards sending us the 
 slightest assistance in the shape of men would l)e hailed 
 
 X 
 
306 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 #1 
 
 i!i 
 
 iil 
 
 li ' 
 
 ?,« 
 
 with the utmost enthiisiiism in Kunlaiul; would demon- 
 strate even more proudly than her princely generosity, as 
 shewn in the grant of 2(),()()()/. to the Patriotic Fund, 
 the loyalty of the Province, and would serve to knit 
 still more closely tlie bonds which unite true English 
 hands and hearts thronghout the whole world. 
 
 * Canachi, in my opinion, promises to he one of the 
 greatest nations on the earth. The heterogeneous 
 materials which compose the Government of the 
 United States are hable at every moment to disloca- 
 tion ; tlie Union is divided by contending factions, 
 which, Hydra like, start into existence and power on 
 the rnins of their precursors. \Vh;it a powerful body 
 the " Know Nothings " have become I and what a 
 baneful influence they exercise over the acts both of the 
 government and the country! They liave already 
 driven many excellent citizens to re-emigrate and to re- 
 turn to their native hmd. In Canada none of these 
 evils exist. The government is paternal, and fosters 
 and cherishes all classes alike; such, at le;ist, is its 
 spirit and such are its principles, though it may, and 
 does sometimes deviate from them in action ; but never 
 to an extent which might cause anarchy, or be productive 
 of evil to the country at large. The only fault of 
 Canada is that she scarcely appreciates as she should 
 her great advantages, and her noble future.' 
 
307 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 THE following Letters, which are amonnrst my hi-otlu'i's 
 many comnuinications to the Press, l)uth in Canada and 
 Englaiul, (generally under the signature ol" Delta,) treat of 
 suljjects of so much pu1)lic interest that 1 need no excuse for 
 
 inserting them. 
 
 ' To the Editor of the Quebec Morning Chronicle. 
 
 EMIGKANTS. 
 ' Sir, 
 
 ' It strikes rac as a somewhat peculiar circumstance, 
 that there should ha no society in Quebec Jbr the specilic })ur- 
 pose of affording relief to distressed emigrants on their arrival 
 in this country. The amount of misery and destitution Avhicli 
 passes annually through this city is enormous. It surely has 
 a claim on our sympathies, and on our assistance, and we 
 cannot relieve ourselves entirely oi" the responsibility of afford- 
 ing such "help in time of need,*' l)ecause those who require 
 it do not come to settle here. It is sufUeient for us that they 
 are ignorant and want counsel, that they are destitute, and in 
 suffering, and want sympathy and assistance. I have authority 
 for stating that there is great misery and most severe distress 
 prevailing among many of the poor emigrants who pass 
 
 X 2 
 
308 
 
 CANADA AND TUE CRIMEA 
 
 ■f 
 
 i 
 
 ■i i 
 
 
 throiigli tliis city. What drove, tlicin IVoiu their own dear 
 native land but misery or lliniine utarinjr tlii'in gauntly in tlie 
 face ? They cotne out many of tlieni in ahnost utter ijriiorance 
 of the country (I will not say this is invariably the ease, but it 
 is olk'U so). They imairine it a land of hope and promise, and 
 they build golden dreams of I'uture success and prosperity, and 
 thou^.di they are not wholly mistaken, they little know the 
 diflicullies that are before them, or the labours and trials tliey 
 must undergo l)el'ore tlnir hopes are realised. Those who 
 emigi'ate, too, are often biirtheiied with large families; there 
 are lew in this city who have not seen thcan c Elected in groups 
 on the wharves ])revious to their embarkation on the steamer 
 whit'h is to tak(! them the first stage of the journey, or huddled 
 together near her bows mure like pigs or sheej) than human 
 beings. The spectacle is surely both an interesting and aifecting 
 one. It is a living roproadi to us, to a large eomnumity of Chris- 
 tians — many sjieaking the same language :and coming Irom the 
 same land — that this distress should pass hy comparatively un- 
 noticed and unheeded. We should always recollect that a little 
 assistance, at the outset of a man's career, is often infinitely 
 more valuable than great assistance at a subsecjuent period. 
 
 ' The imrelieved misery which exists under their very 
 eyes is a great and terrible rejiroach to those who live at ease 
 ami indifferent to the lot of others, and it will rise hereafter 
 as a terrible witness against many a man and woman. 
 
 ' Nearly all the crime and misery which exists among the 
 poorer classes of mankind exists from want of sympathy, from 
 the indifference of those who, receiving their being fiom 
 the same God, appropriate with heartless selfishness the bles- 
 sings which accomjjany it to themselves, and close their hearts 
 against the wants and suffering Avhich keep from companion- 
 ship with the existence of their miserable brethren. How 
 nnich might all of us do ! How little do any of us jjcrform ! 
 and yet our duty to our neighbour is to love him as ourselves. 
 We may remember, not inappropriately, that the charitable 
 otHces of the good Samaritan were performed to a traveller. 
 
AlTEXniX 
 
 809 
 
 * I tliiiik tho question luis only to ho fiiirly stated to Ik- 
 
 ngrecd to, and uctt'd on. TIktc aro tt-w I hclicvc' in this (.-ity 
 
 ulu) would nt>t citntriliiitc towards so ^ood a work. The 
 
 wliol(M\ inter is before tla-ni, tlu! season ol' charity, love, and 
 
 good-will towards men. Let them avail themselves, when 
 
 spring returns, to welcome, cheer, and assist some of the poor 
 
 outcasts and exiles whom necessity hiiA driven to a strange 
 
 land. 
 
 ' 1 remain, »X:c.' 
 
 ' To the Editor of the Quebec Mi>rniiiij C/ir!»tii:le. 
 
 * 8ll!, 
 
 ' "Would you permit nu! through the niedimn of your 
 columns to oiler the following suggestion to the consideration 
 of yoiu" readers with resj)ect to provision for the reception and 
 relief of sick or destitute emigrants. The i)r(;sence of this 
 class in the crowded, hot, and dirty streets of the lower town, 
 at this season of the year, is justly regarded as most objection- 
 able in every way, and yet the (pieslion naturally occurs, what 
 is to become of the poor creatures.' They must go somewhere. 
 They are possibly too unwell, or too weak to continue their 
 journey immediately; they want lot ul, rest, or money; l;)Ut 
 they find no door open to them but those of low beer shojjs, or 
 dirty .stifling dwellings, where it is marvellous that human 
 beings contrive to live at all. I would ventiu'c to suggest that 
 a great relief would be allbrded to the city, and the ends of 
 humanity ellectively promoted, by the establishment of one, 
 or more, large emigrant hulks for the reception of all emigi-ants 
 who it might be clearly ascertained were incapable of continu- 
 ing their journey. These reception ships might be under the 
 control of government, or of a private society supported ])y 
 voluntary contribution. However, it would be clearly the 
 duty of government, Avitli the large surplus fund at their dis- 
 posal, to assist and support to the uttermost any private enter- 
 prise undertaken for so laudable an object. I merely throw 
 out this suggestion for consideration, as its practicability and 
 
.310 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 1 V 
 
 iulvantngcs apjiear oljvious; and tlioii,2;li scliemcs, in every 
 rcspt'Ct prcfcrahle, may ])r("-.i'ut tlicmsclves to others, yet 1 
 l)elieve that it is desiral)le that siiL-'gestious wliich appear ])rac- 
 ticabi;* should be made the object of discussion and compari- 
 s(jn, and it is Avith tliis conviction .iiat [ have achh'cssed 
 myself to the public through the medium of your columns. 
 ' I am, Sir, 
 
 ' Your obedient Servant, 
 
 ' DELTA. 
 
 ' (imhiv, July 12, 1854.' 
 
 ' To the Editor of the jlfoniing Post. 
 
 ' THE WAR AND THE AEMY. 
 
 Sin, 
 
 ' At a crisis like the present it ])ehoves every one to 
 assist his country to the utmost of his power, and to embrace 
 any opportunity that may present itself ol" rendering it a 
 service. Though filling a subordinate position in tlie service, 
 I would venture, Avith all deference to superior judgment, to 
 offer a few suircestions as to the course which 1 consider 
 might be advantageously pursued by (tovernment and by the 
 military authorities in the present emergency. 
 
 ' It is our oliject, at the opening of the campaign on a grand 
 .scale in the ensuing spring, to have a large, well-equijiped, 
 well-organized army in the field, Avliich shall .su})port our 
 claim, not oidy to su};or-eminent lu'avery, but to super- 
 eminent intellisrence. We have no desire to bhish arain, and 
 to mourn again, over such a scries of fatal errors as have; 
 marked our progress hithei-to before the walls of Sebastopol. 
 We wish to retrieve our character, to rectify and remedy 
 what is amiss, and to guard against the repetition of similar 
 calamities. We desire to bring into the field an army Avhich 
 in (!A'eiy respect may Avorthily represent the nation. Let us 
 see how this is to be done. 
 
ArrENDix 
 
 311 
 
 3R, in PVPrv 
 tlicrs, yet 1 
 ;i]i])car ])rac- 
 lul coiiijuiii- 
 e addressed 
 columns. 
 
 ' DELTA. 
 
 every one to 
 to embrace 
 
 idering it a 
 tlie service, 
 
 iidgment, to 
 I consider 
 
 ; and by the 
 
 I on a arand 
 ll-eqnipped, 
 support our 
 to super- 
 i again, and 
 )rs as have 
 SebastopoL 
 md remedy 
 n (-)f simihir 
 irmy Avhich 
 Ion. Let us 
 
 ' Where (h) we in tlie first instance turn to? Naturally to 
 the yoiitli (if oiu* own country. The military spirit i>f the 
 people has been appealed to, and this a})peal has met with a 
 hearty, thougli perhaps ncit unanimous, response. AVe should 
 first consider how this spirit, Avhieh is at the present crisis *hc 
 mainstay of the country, may be best jn-omoied and encou- 
 raged. Latterly the condition of tlie soldier, and the, terms 
 of enlistment into the army, liave been much ameliorated. A 
 prospect has Ix'en opened to every man in the ranks of ])ro- 
 motion and distinction, of tlie innnediate recognition of dis- 
 tinguished gallantry or merit, of honourable rewards for 
 woiuids received in the service of tlie country, and the con- 
 solation ailbrded to tliose who have formed domestic ties, that 
 their wives and little ones, in the event of their death, l)e- 
 come the especial objects of the solicitude of their country. 
 So far, so good. Now, Sir, 1 Avould venture to suggest a 
 still further encouragement, and one which is, in my opinion, 
 both just and judicious — / imti/if double the p<tij oj' nil 
 soldiert^ eiKjiKjed on active service in the field. Even with this 
 arrangement, at the pres(mt high rati' of wages and demand 
 for labour, the renameration would be very small compared 
 with the hardships undergone and the dangers braved ; but a 
 very great encouragement would be afforded to nn'u to volun- 
 teer from the militia. 
 
 ' Next, having considered the method of obtaining men, I 
 shall proceed to my second point — their tvainini/. We may 
 accumidate a large mass of raw material of all kinds in this 
 countrv. from the untrained general of divisicm to the I'aw 
 recruit, who does not know his right hand from his It ir, ami 
 all we may thus collect, without su])jecting it to the imnnt- 
 acturinn Drocess, Avill be conii»aratively worthless. The arm 
 
 / 
 
 y 
 
 sensibly felt the value of the military ti-aining at Chol)ham. 
 Many of tuir generals and colonels had never seen so large a 
 number of men manueuvred togethei', and confessed that 
 before " Chobham " they knew little of v/ar or military 
 movements on a largo scale. How, in fact, could they ? Such 
 
•mm 
 
 \\ 
 
 312 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 ;:U 
 
 : 
 
 knowledpfc (loos not conio intiillivcly. Let lis, now ^ve arc 
 actually engaged in a war with one ol' the greatest powoi-s in 
 tlu ivorld, Inrm at once several great eanijis lor tlie training 
 of our ollici!i's and men. I would establish three camps — on(^ 
 in the s(>uth of England, one in the north (where the Scotch 
 recruits miglit be trained), and one in Irelan(L 
 
 * Durintf the winter months the men miirht live in wooden 
 houses si)iillii)' to those which have heen sent to the Crimea, 
 or iiiofc connnodious. Each camp should be conuuanded by 
 a general officer, wdio should live with liis staff on the ground, 
 and take every opportunity of exercising it in its various and 
 important (hities. ]\Iilitary sketches and reports of th(^ sur- 
 rounding districts, 8cc., should be continually demanded, and 
 everything conducted as if the army were in the presmce of 
 the enemy. Each camp should have its waggon-train and 
 conunissariat staff, and supplies should be regularly bi-ought 
 in by the Avaggons belonging to the army. The men should 
 be continuallv exercised, and should l)e Itrouu-lu into hiirh 
 physical condition. (Wi; seem to lorget in our treatment of 
 our soldiers that the lioman Avord lor aii ai'Uiy iqgnifiea 
 " exercise,"' and that, in time of pi'ace, the fatigues tluy went 
 through, and the weapcms they were; instructed to us(\ called 
 for nuich greater exertions than were usually necessary in 
 ordinary cam])uigus. AVe shut our men U]) in ])arracks, and 
 give them a sht)rt march once a-week !) The men, after 
 going thi'ough their ordinary drill, after being thoi'oughly 
 instructed and initiated into cam]) duties, should l)e ma- 
 nanivred in masses and tauglit to act in large bodies: they 
 should 1)0 instructed hoAV to defend themselves, how to throAV 
 up intrenchments, to make gabions, fascines, iK:c., and in 
 every description of duty tluy are likely to be called on to 
 perfoi'm in active service. (I may nu'ution as a suliordinate 
 part of this plan, that the men should be taught how to avail 
 themselves of the resources of a country, how to cook, make 
 soups, v!(:c., all things in Avhich they are lamentably delicient 
 to the French, and all highly important as far as they go.) 
 
ArrENDix 
 
 318 
 
 * To form an fidoqiiatc army of rosorvc in tliis cmmtiy, tlic 
 force (listril)ute(l in the thivi' camps should not, in my liumbh- 
 opinion, be less than ir)(),0()(). We may, however, more 
 safely assume lialf tliis number as the more jn-obable. If 
 we take this important step at once Ave shall, liefore the cam- 
 paign has well commenced, i.e., l)efore April, it is to be hoped 
 liave an elHcient reserve; corps to di-aw on for the supply of our 
 army in the field. This is one oi' the modes which have ■sug- 
 gested themselves to me of re-esta])lishing our military ascen- 
 dancy. There is anotlier which 1 shall proceed to mention — 
 it is, in my opinion, of great importance, and if is also one 
 which demands ])rompt and vigorous action. We ai)pear to 
 liave forgotten that we have immense military resources in 
 India, and that these resources are available to a great extent 
 without weakening our ascendancy in that great country. I 
 am assured l)y officers of ex})erienc(! from India, that then; are 
 iiicilities for recruiting to Mny extent in many disti'icts. If, there- 
 fore, the East India Company assisted the Crown by transfer- 
 ring, let us say, uO,()0() or lO, ()()() men liest suited foi- the war 
 we are engaged in, and thoroughly ti'ained to service in the 
 field, it could in a ft'W months obtain recruits in India to 
 sup])ly their places. Why do we not, then, form an Indian 
 Division in our Eastern army, officered by experienced men, 
 inured to a hot climate, and accustomed to tlie hardships and 
 difficulties of Avar? If we availed ourselves freely and fullv of 
 the magnificent means of transj)ort Avhich exists between this 
 country and India, we might l)efore May accunn date a respeo 
 table force at Gallipoli or Constantinople, and by the end ol 
 June have at least 1(J,U0() or 15, ()()() men from India, available^ 
 for active operations. We have only to turn to our colonies, 
 to find a spirit of patriotism as glowing and devoted as thai 
 Avhich fills the mother country. In Canada especially, the 
 most ardent wish has been expressed to form a division lor the 
 assistance of England, and her citizens burn for the honour ot 
 fighting, side liy side, Avith the soldiers of Alma and Inkcr- 
 mann. We should not let enthusiasm like this die a natural 
 
314 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 t i 
 
 (loatlu In Canada there aro several officers of groat experience 
 Avlio have coine forward to assist their country with heart and 
 hejid. Enghind shouUl not neglect such sources of strength. 
 By establishing a generous emuhition, ])y a judicious distribu- 
 tion of rewards, by a ready recognition of services performed, 
 she may fan the military and patriotic spirit 'wliich now glow's 
 in the breasts of her sons into a i'lrc, v/hicli will be inextin- 
 guishable as long as there is material for it to consume. 
 
 ' It is Avith the liope that these remarks may attract some 
 notice, and may be productive of some beneficial lesult, that I 
 liave ventured to oHIt them to the piiljlic tlirough the medium 
 of your columns. They are not jiut forward presumptuously, 
 but earnestly and with sincerity, by one Avho wishes only the 
 good and glory of his country. 
 
 ' I am, Sir, 
 
 ' Your obedient Servant, 
 
 ' DELTA. 
 
 I i 
 
 ' To the Editor of the Morning Ileruhl. 
 
 ' liEFKESIIMENT FOR THE TROOPS IN THE 
 TRENCHES AND FOR THE WOUNDED. 
 
 ' Sir, 
 
 * I beg to offer the folic tving suggestion to the notice of 
 the commissarat, the medical depa.rtment, and the command- 
 iniT officers of regiments in the Crimea. 
 
 ' The idea has occiirred to me that the troops should have 
 something to stimulate and refresh them ichile on duty in the 
 trenches, and there does not, as far as I can judge, seem to be 
 any reason why this idea slu)uld not be canvied out. 
 
 ' It has suggested itself to me that tin vessels (something 
 similar tt) those used in railway refreshment rooms), filled with 
 hot tea, mixed Avith brandy or rum, might be swung, like pan- 
 niers, over the backs of nudes, and thus conveyed along the 
 trenches to the men on duty. 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 315 
 
 t experience 
 li lieart aiul 
 f)f strength, 
 us (listribu- 
 performed, 
 1 now glo'ws 
 be inextin- 
 unie. 
 
 ttract some 
 esult, that I 
 the medium 
 imptuously, 
 les only the 
 
 ' DELTA. 
 
 N THE 
 ED. 
 
 le notice ol" 
 command - 
 
 lould have 
 dutij in the 
 seem to be 
 
 (something 
 , filled Avith 
 ;5, like pan- 
 l along the 
 
 ' Tlio tea might be kept hot by means of a pan o{ cliaix'^al, 
 or a spirit lamp. A tin cu[) should hv suspended by a chain 
 to each vessel for the nu'U to drink out of, and every man 
 shr)uld be provided Avith a cup when going on duty into the 
 trenches, Avliich might bo attached to his belt. 
 
 'I see nothing impracticable in this idea, and I trust it may 
 be acted upon. 
 
 ' I may add, that mules canyinghot tea, or even cold spii-its 
 and water, in the Avay I have described, might accompany the 
 ambulances in search of the wounded, so that refreshment 
 might be at once administered to them Avhen first discovered 
 on the field, and Avhen they most require it. 
 
 * I would suggest to the managers of the Crimean Army 
 Fund tt) send some tin vessels, such as 1 have described, with 
 the aj)paratus for fixing them securely on the Ixicks of 
 mules, and protecting the animal i'rom heat (which may be 
 easily done Avitli a little ingenuity), at once. The month of 
 March is a raAV and chilly one, and (it (ill times refreshments 
 administered as I have sugirested Avould be most beneficial to 
 the sick and Avounded. 
 
 ' I have the honour to be. Sir, 
 
 ' Your most obedient SerA'ant, 
 
 'AX ENGINEER OFFICEK. 
 
 ' Eclinburgli, Feb. 27. 
 ' I enclose my card.' 
 
 ' To the Editor of the Morniuij Post. 
 
 ' THE NEEDLEWOMEN OF ENGLAND. 
 
 ' Sii?, 
 
 ' It has been truly remarked, that vice springs almost 
 entirely from the absence of alfection or from its aberration. It 
 may be said, perhaps, still more truly, that vice proceeds very 
 much from the A\'ant of sympathy, and from the indil]eren(;e 
 with Avhich suffering, Avroug, and misery are regarded by the 
 
316 
 
 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 
 
 i) I 
 
 ) 
 
 Avorld. Every Christian man or woman slionld put to them- 
 selves the question, " Wliat itrood can I do in this world lieforc 
 I go hence and am niimbered among the things that were i " 
 There are surely objects sufiicient on which to expend our 
 enei-gies. "We are surrouTided and environed on all sides by 
 claims aHke upon our reason and our feelings. "We slioidd 
 consider those that we are the most called upon to meet, and 
 meet them at once manfully and earnestly as good soldiers of 
 Christ. No claim that I know of could Avell be stronger than 
 that of the poor, struggling, oj)pre3sed needlewomen of Eng- 
 land. There is no class, either in the great metropolis or 
 elsewhere, which more deseiTedly claims both our sympathy 
 and our aid. There is no class more ])eculiarly exposed, more 
 cruelly and harshly treated, more hopelessly condenuied by 
 society, if they yield to the mighty temptations to sin which 
 surround them. Take the case of a young female, almost 
 alone in the great harsh world, struggling for an honest sup- 
 port, finding the beauty God may have given her a great and 
 terrible snare, or the absence of it a source of contempt and 
 indillerence — looking around with the indescribable yearning 
 ofj'outhand isolation for sympathy — condennied early and 
 late to unceasing and monotonous toil, to a horrible drudgery 
 — doomed to confinement while the bright sun is shining, and 
 all nature seems rejoicing for all but her, finding her health 
 failing, her spirits sinking, her young blossom of hope nipped 
 in the bud, with a dreary vista before her of monotonous days 
 of toil and imprisonment, unrelieved by a gleam of brighter 
 and better things, Avith no one to turn to to whom she might 
 pour out her heart, with its deep longings and its pent-up 
 suil'ering. Think, ye stern moralists and censors, of what this 
 must l^e to the young, inexperienced, and ignorant heart, that 
 wishes, may be, to do well — that sees and dreads the misery 
 and contamination of guilt, but feels itself sinking beneath 
 the weight it has to bear, and seeks in vain for encouragement 
 and assistance. Yet society looks coldly on ; the victim falls; 
 it points the finger of scorn and contiuuely at her ; she 
 
ArrENDix 
 
 317 
 
 to tliem- 
 rld before 
 t were ? " 
 pcnd our 
 1 sides by 
 ^^c sliould 
 meet, and 
 wldiers of 
 nger than 
 n of Eng- 
 ropolis or 
 sympathy 
 )sed, more 
 Qmned by 
 sin which 
 le-, ahnost 
 Dnest sup- 
 grcuit and 
 tempt and 
 ; yearning 
 early and 
 Inidgery 
 ining, and 
 ler liealth 
 ie nipped 
 nous days 
 brighter 
 e miglit 
 ])ent-up 
 wliat this 
 eart, that 
 10 misery 
 beneath 
 ragement 
 tim falls; 
 her ; she 
 
 -u 
 
 striiggles on honestly and sincerely, it maintains its indiifer- 
 ence. These victims fall and struggle on around //»% and, as 
 it were, luider our very eyes. There are thousands of needle- 
 women in London and elsewhere, leading lives of utter 
 wretchedness, drudgery, and jx'nury. It may be said their 
 case is well knoAvn, and that it has been graphically jiaiuted 
 and feelingly told. 1 answer, if it is so, why is not more done 
 for them? On those who employ the class I alliule to, any 
 appeal, however urgent, would be utterly thi'own away. Th<y 
 wrap themselves in an impenetrable mantle of self-interest, 
 and listen with complacent indilference to all that may be said 
 against them. We must tiu-n from these to all "who have 
 feeling hearts, and are capable of sympathy, in the great 
 world around us, for it is time that such things as this shoidd 
 cease in a Christian country — it is time that a crusade should 
 be directed against all those who abuse, lor their vile self- 
 interest, the fairest and gentlest portion of God's great (creation 
 — it is time that a strong voice which shall make itself heard 
 should be raised in the land against a sin and o])pi'('ssion 
 which cries to God like this. Shall we, as a nation, content 
 ourselves Avith the hypocrite's fast ? Shall we mortily and 
 prostrate ourselves before the throne of grace, and sutler the 
 heavy Inirden to remain, and the oppressed still to sti-uggle 
 under the yoke ? Private exertion is not all that is needed. 
 It should, by its pressure from Avithout, make itself felt by the 
 Legislature, but Gcvermnent should step in in this matter 
 with the only great argtunents that are o^'any avail — sti'iiigent 
 and effective laws to control employers and protect the em- 
 ployed. Something should be done, and done at n/in', lo 
 better the condition of the poor, struggling needlewomen of 
 England. Their Avorking hours should be limited; a scale of 
 wages for particular services, or services of a ])artieulai' class, 
 Avhich Avill lairly remunerate those employeil, shnidd be 
 established. All employers should l)e compelled to give their 
 Avorkwomen a half holiday once a Aveek or (>ftener. (iovern- 
 ment might do thus nmch — it Avould remain i'w pri\'atc 
 
.•H8 
 
 CANADA AND TIIK CRIMEA 
 
 1 
 
 i ':■■ 
 
 -I ) 
 
 
 
 
 i^; 
 
 
 • .« 
 
 ; 
 
 u 
 
 
 \ i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 t 
 
 j 
 
 
 •i 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 pliihinthropy still more tn ameliorate and improve. The 
 great social deficiency of the present day is, in my opinion, 
 the want of healthful, innocent, and improving recreations for 
 the poor. We shonld endcuivour to increase their self-res])ect. 
 ir necessity com])els them to be mere machines when at their 
 daily toil, they shonld be ri'stored to the recollection ol" their 
 humanity and ca])abilities -when it is over. There is, after all, 
 less effort required to effect this than is supposed. Dickena 
 touched and won the hearts of thousands, whose sensibilities 
 liad perhaps long Ix^en frozen over, Ijy merely reading a book 
 out to them. We look to the bodily wants of the poor, their 
 food and clothing, the liare necessities of existence, in fact; 
 and we forget what is cif infinitely more importance — their 
 thoughts, hopes, and feelings. We thus too often give them 
 no chance. The pleasures of sin stand opposed by nofhinrj. 
 It is not Avith them, as with us, the delil>erate rejection of 
 virtuous for vicious pleasure. It is the pleasures of evil 
 opposed by a positive blaidv — a dreary nothingness. And 
 yet Avc take credit to ourselves for sympathising Avith our poor 
 i'ellow-ereatures, ;md express a virtuous horror and indigna- 
 tion at their error, crime, and insensibility. God grant that a 
 better time may come, and that this deep reproach may be 
 remoA'-ed from us ! Let those of a higher and better class 
 manifest sympatliy and interest Avith their ])oor brethren — 
 sympathy of the kind Mr. Dickens manifested Avhen he read 
 his Christmas tale out to them — and aa'c should soon find 
 hoAV nuich there Avas that Avas admirable and excellent — Iioav 
 much that might be diverted from evil and turned to good in 
 the heart and mind of the poor man or Avoman. Circmu- 
 stances and opportunity only are required for developing 
 chai'acter. Who Avould have sup])osed the despised private 
 soldier to be AAdiat he has shoAvn himself to be — fidl of the 
 noblest traits that can dignity humanity — till the fieiy trial 
 brought his character out in bright and full relief My voice 
 is feeble to urge on this matter, but I raise it earnestly and 
 hopefully. The cause advocated Avould ennoble any appeal. 
 
 s !: 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 319 
 
 I trust that, «vGn in this utilitarian ago, some worthy chann>i„u 
 may be found to do battle in its behalf; that some .k,., 
 earnest, and thou-htful mind may coneentrati- its ener-ifs lur 
 the remedy of this and similar evils, and that the «,nntry 
 may be delivered from the reproach which now climbs to j, on 
 account of them. 
 
 ' I am, Sir, 
 
 ' Your obedient Servant, 
 
 'C. R. 
 
 'Edinburgh, April 11, 1855.' 
 
 THE END.