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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 C. ^^r r r^^ /.r P^< ^r/?4 ,^ f^. \ K ;^^.^^ ^^^^-i^ /^^^r ^^- ^'/j^^^ r>c.jrt>^<^^Cr\ % i d. <^tn ^ etee^ I ■ ■$ < ^-cA f 9 / » /t./Lfi' /tl:~ c Yi^. ^^^^'z- ^^^^^^^ y^^^*-'i^^4<\ ///,,^/f/^_ cT SKETCHES OF A SOLDIER'S LIFE I.O.N DON PUINTIiJ) UY Sl'OTTItiVVOOUK AND CO. NJiW-iSTIiEliT bt^UAHE / : > ; A « r V KB i . 'i^^niao MPi «i I ;* ■<:!<>• \L> AJVi) l,OKfvt-?ri'f^!)/.3t V o rSH' ^'-. ^'f ■j{:^t-lLr-^ '^/'^, ii..L, H.'>-HK:i ^Y. .i^y-. . ... v. U /{..-i CANADA AND TiiK CVx\m\ OK . .^Kia'ciiK.^ OF A SOU) liars iavk FROM TIIL: JOUllNALS AND COURESPONDENCH OF THE LATE MAJOR RANKEiX, R.E. EDITED BY HIS EROTUER, W. RAY^'E RAXKEX LOJ\DOx\ LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS COXrK.XTS ~*o*- ruAP. I. II. in. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. In ruoDicTioN Moi.m: III ntin(; - A Canadian l-'uii; Ti<Avi',i.i,iN(; IN iiii; l,'.Nm:i) SiAir.s J'iiii,.vi)r,i.i'inA - GiuAUi) Coi.i.wii; Stati; IIoisf, STArNi'oN Lexinoton— An i ni'i.i-.asant Kidi; anm . DisAouKEAHLE AnvR.NTL'ui; -Visit m [Iauit.h's Im.wuy Axn RETruN TO Washinotox iNAioiuArioN Day at Washinotox .Miokti.no wrn Thackeray — Chahi.estom Charleston -Slave Market Savannah Key \Ve>'i Key Wesi- and the Havana Havana — De Ramos, Palm-Sunday — A Dinner wrn the English Consul — Return to Montreal QuEUEC - Gavazzi Riots — Rumours ok War . Bound for the Crimea Ahrivai. ai' Sehastoi>oi. The Assault ok the Redan Inside Seiiastopol Winter in the Crimea . The New Year .... The Last Death in the Crimea Appendix ... PA (IE I HI !)!) 117 i;{;} Kil ins 20;} 228 250 27;i 291 ;}()7 M self brot F and fron: inte] whic publ read A appe publ I pres< CANADA AND THE CRIMEA CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. 5 MY object is to make this book, as far as possible, autobiograpbical. I sliaU therefore content my- self by giving a very sliglit introductory sketch of my brother's life before he entered the army. From that time, until his death in 1856, his letters and journals record its principal events. I have selected from these what I consider the most striking and interesting passages ; purposely omitting everytldug which it appeared a violation of confidence to make public, or which would be unattractive to the general reader. A portion of the contents of this book has already appeared in a small volume/- edited by myself and published four years ago.* I have added considerably to this portion of my present subject, and availed myself of information I * Six Months at Sobastopol, B CANADA AND THE CRIMEA have received, to render my brother's narrative of events in the Crimea as correct as possible. Should this labour of love prove successful, its success must be attributed to him ; should it fail, it will be owing to want of skill on my part, in the arrange- ment of materials, in themselves interesting and attractive.* George Ranken was born in London, on the 4th of January, 1 828. He was educated by the Rev. Dr. Smith, at Rottingdean, near Brighton, and the Rev. William Moore, at Ryde, Isle of Wight. In 1843 he received from the Right Hon. Henry Goulburn a nomination for a cadetship at the Royal Military Academy, Woolwich. In that year he left the Isle of Wight, to commence at Woolwich his future course of studies. In 1844 he became a cadet, anu in October 1847 was commissioned as second lieutenant in the Royal Engineers, having passed a most excellent examination, in which he held the fourth place among forty competitors. This was a successful debut into military life for one who had had but little previous training for the Aca- demy, and no intention, until 1843, of entering a scientific corps. * The publication of tins book has, from various causes, been delayed ; but no time seems more fitted for its appearance tlian the present, when so much interest is concentrated upon Canada, and when the prospect of a winter campaig-n in the West recalls the heroism and devotion displayed six or seven years ago by our noble army in the East. ten to I INTRODUCTION tive of events iccessful, its it fail, it will the arrange- resting and 1 the 4th of 7. Dr. Smith, ev. William Ion. Henry b the Eoyal ) commence [n 1844 he mmissioned ers, having ch he held life for one r the Aca- entering a causes, been •earance tlian ipon Canada, West recalls s ago by our In December 1849 my l)rother became a first lien- tenant, and in April 1850 received orders to i)roceed to Canada. He arrived at ^Montreal early in ^lay, remained there uliout a month, and was afterwards .stationed at Quebec, until ]March 1852, wlien he returned to Mon- treal. In Februarv and March 1853, he made a tour throuL;h the United States and portions t)f South America, where he commenced a journal, which he continued till within a few days of his death. In 3 lay 1853 he went a second time to Quebec, remaining there luitil September in the following j^ear; and then returning to England. From November 1854 until August 1855 he was stationed, first in Ediid)m"gh, and afterwards at Fort George, Inverness; and in August received orders to repair to the Crimea. Tliese dates render more intelligible the narrative which follows. His first impressions of America I consider suffi- ciently graphic to be given at some length. Extract from a Letter. * Eevere House Hotel, Boston. I'nitod States, April 2i>nd, 1850. ' Thank God ! I am safely landed. I arrived at Boston about twelve o'clock on Saturday. We had a very pleasant termination to our voyage, though the day after I wrote we got into a field of ice, which delayed us four or five hours. The captain tried to get through B 2 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA it, but found lie could not, and was forced to hack out with considerable damage to his paddle-wheels, almost all the floats of which were broken or injured. The field was of vast extent, no blue water being- visible beyond from the masthead. ' The cut-water of the steamer ran right into a large block, which we carried away with us for a short dis- tance, until the officer on watch perceived that, although there was a dead calm, we were only moving along at three knots per hour, and took measures to dislodge our travelling companion. We approached Halifax harbour on Thursday night, and reached our wharf at about twelve o'clock. The night was lovely ; water ([uite calm, and moon and stars shining. The light, however, was scarcely sufficient to give us a clear view of the town. The harbour is the most dangerous one imaginable to enter in foggy weather, as there is a large reef of rocks at its mouth. Ships have sometimes to lay-to sevei'al days near the entrance, as misty weather frequent!}' prevails. ' I landed, however, with a party, and walked through the town to the princijDal hotel, w^here we found the accommodation wretched, and were disappointed of the pleasure of drinking sherry coblers as tliere was no ice. * Nova Scotia is a wild, rugged country, covered w^ith primeval forest, and dotted with small lakes. Halifax is supplied with fresh water from a lake several hundred feet above the city ; this elevated reservoir is most useful in case of fires, as no pumping is required. Halifax itself is a large town, Avith two harbours and some fine liou cap I havi SiC, I I INTRODUCTION to back out eels, almost ured. The L'iijg visible into a laro-e I short dis- it, although ig along at islodge our ax harbour at about {uite calm, wever, was the town, igiiiable to of rocks at vei-al days y prevails, d through found the lointed of there was ered with Halifax I hundred ost useful Halifax :iome fine It }eabl( an a^rree isliiufr and shooting'. ilitary station, as there is nousG!^. capital _, I think the Americans have been mucli maligned, or have nuich improved since tlie works of INIrs. Trolloj^e, &c., have been written. 'I was very much pleased at the extreme civility with which tlie commonest people answer any question you may ask, tliough the equality which is supposed to exist out here amuses me vastly. ' I intended going round by Xew York, and therefore wished most of mv luu-ufaoje to be forwarded to jNIon- treal direct. I was introduced to the agent and car- rier, who touched their hats, and shook hands ; and the next morning one of them breakfasted at the same table with me. * On the morning of Saturday, April 20th, we came in sight of the shores of America, and entered the beautiful harbour of Boston. We had a lovely morning for the termination of our troubles. The sun shone brill iantl}^, sparkling on the water, which was scarcely rippled by a light breeze, just sufficient to fill the white sails of the beautiful and eleofant craft which was cruising about around us and in the offing. ' Sails are made here of Russian canvas, which is finer and whiter than ours, but not so suitable for rough weather. * The steamers are ugly enough to look at, having large cabins on deck. They go ahead, however, most gallantly, doing sometimes nearly twenty miles an hour ; but are more liable, generally speaking, to ex- CANADA AND THE CRIMEA plo(l(-' tlian ours are. \Mi('n tliey race (which they do a great deal on the Mississippi), tliey put weiglits on the safety valve. *Thc approaclies to the harbour are strongly fortified, and I had occasion to admire an extremely pretty, re- gular, little pentagonal fort, built according to Vaidjau's system, on a small island. * The lower parts and narrow streets of l^>oston have much the appearance of a French city, and are dirty and disagreeiible. ' The best houses have most of them white doors with the resident's name on a ])rass plate, and a glass bell-handle on each side for servants and visitors, as in England. They are kei)t beautifiuly clean and bright, and have a pleasing and clieerful effect. *Coloiu'ed panes of glass are introduced in the windows in the most irregular manner, witli the view, I .should imagine, of throwing a rich liglit on some particular object or article of furniture. ' The hotel I am staving- at is a new and very fine one, beautifully fitted up in the French st3de ; but though very bright and pleasing in appearance, without that air of comfort which pervades an English re- sidence. A thing which I foimd almost unbearable is the high temperature at which tliey keep the liotel by means of steam pipes. The thermometer stands be- tween 65" and 70°, and the difference between the temperature in and out of doors is most trying. ' The great luxury out here is the Wenliam Lake ice. Everything is iced. Ice on the butter, ice in the INTRODUCTION ieh they do wei-^'lit.s on ^]y fortified, prett}', re- A'auljuii's ostoii have 1 arc dirty hito doors lid a ghiss iters, as in ind l)right, le Aviiidows , I .'Iiould particular I very fine ;tyle; but e, without igiisli re- earable is 3 Iiotel by taiids be- iveen the am Lake ce in the beer, wine, and water ; ice creams always for dinner, and all kinds of ice drinks, the principal of which are lemonade, mint jnlep, sherry cobler, and san^L,^aree. The names of some of the drinks which you get at the bar of every hotel or oyster saloon are most amusing. A man told me he could make up 400 different kinds. The principal are different kinds of punch, brandy cocktail, brandy and gin smash, brandy skin, thunder and lightning, gin sling, sherry cobler, S:c. Honvj of them are made with pepper, and have correspond- ingly hot names. '8([uash, an immense yellow vegetable something like a pumpkin in appearance, and eaten mashed, is used for tarts, and as a vegetable. It tastes much like a sweet turnip. ' Sweet potato, a vegetable between a potato and parsnip, is likewise eaten. It is yellow and dry. 'They roast their hams out here a great deal, and eat them with champjjgne sauce. ' Halibut is the principal fish in the States. It is of enormous size, and like cod, but not considered so good. ' The society at the ordinary is most mixed. Tliere is very little conversation carried on during dinner ; the Americans have no time for it. They generally dispatch three courses in about twenty-five minutes, rarely take wine, and rise abruptly, and the instant they have finished w^alk off to their counting-houses, &c. * The whole mode of life in an American hotel is perfectly different to what it is in England. You take all your meals in public, or pay extravagantly for the 8' CANADA AND THE CRIMKA I privilege of privacy. You get a very good dinner, l)ut it is not Ji comfortable one to Knglislnnen. The whole affair is so hurried that you have sciircely time to swallow your food, and none for conversation. ' The gentlemen and ladies each have tlieir own dining-room and parlour (as ladies travel all over the States alone, and with the greatest comfort, meeting wherever they go with the greatest attention and politeness). Gentlemen, however, who may be travel- ling with ladies, dine with the ladies; and ^NFrs. Fin- layson's company procured for me that privilege on •Sunday, when I had an opportunity of Ijeholding the Boston belles. Most of the women are pale and in- teresting-looking. They are generally small, and have rather slight figures. Some of them look like French women ; and this resemblance is increased by their dressing in the Parisian fashion, and wearing very bright colours. ' They dress very showily, and sometimes in shocking taste. I saw a girl in a green dress, red shawl, and yellow bonnet. ' As for the men, they have all a marked look of intelligence, keen, restless eyes, generally sharp features, often adorned with a scraggy beard, sallow complexion, and long hair. They dress singularly, often wearing blue trousers. The most fashionable colour is, how- ever, greenish-yellow. ' Speculation and money seem the great objects of life out here. Credit is great. Every little bank issues more dollar and half-dollar notes than its capital. to prel An real heij tre Th( peai INTRODUCTION fl inner, but TJio whole y time to tl J oir own 1 over the J nieeting it ion and 1)0 travel- ^Afrs. Pln- vileg-e on Ifling the and in- aud have e French hy their ing very shoekinir ^wl, and look of features, plexion, wearinir s, how- * On Sunday I accompanied Mr. and Airs. Finhiysou to church, and heard an excellent serniou on bigotry, preached b}' a very intelligent-looking man. The American litui'gy differs slightly from ours. They read the Lord's Praver thus: "Our Father ^vho art in heaven," &c. ; the same as ours to "forgive us our trespasses as we forgive those who trespass against us." They pray ft)r tlu^ President and Congress, do not re- peat the Lord's Prayer so frequently as we do, omit the short prayers at the end of the Litany, and the Nica>an Creed at the end of the Communion. There are several rather pretty churches in Boston, but the most elegant-looking spire is made oi ivood. 'The Italian Opera, I fancied, had a very ecclesiastical appearance ; and, to my astonishment, I learnt that on Sundays it is used as a Baptist chapel ! ! and that this practi^^e of double usefulness is not uncommon. How shockino- this seems to an Englishman ! ' Everything here is done on a go-a-head principle ; the roads are shocking, but good enough to go-a-head over. * Telegraph wires cross the principal streets, and tall unpainted crooked poles run along opposite some of the best houses with the wires attached to them most roughly ; but they answer the purj^oses of communica- tion, and are most extensively employed in the States, running between places where there are no railways. # * New Yorh. — The American railways are exactly described by Dickens, in his " American Notes." The 10 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA triivc'lliii<; is very clit'Up; I paid only five (loilar.s for the jouiuey from Boston to New York, 224 miles. The arnmij:oineiits for luu'<'ii<'e are excellent. *Tliey give you a brass ticket with a uumher on it, and attach a similar one to your luggage, which is con- veyed to your hotel without any extra charge. *The country between Boston and New York is very hi otru(l( wild and uncultivated. Lar; all directions, only covered occasionally hy a tliin coat- ing of turf. This rocky ground is portioned off by rough stone walls into small divisions, as if it were valuable property. ' We passed through many clean, bright-looking towns, built of wooden houses painted white, with green out- side blinds. * Every little insignificant village boasts its three or four places of worship, built principally of wood and all small. * The train barely stops at the small stations. It lets off its steam as it approaches, and comes very nearly to a halt; during which interval of slack speed, people who wish to start or stop are supposed to get in and out. ' The carriages hold more than fifty people. Every carriage has its stove, and a kind of lane between the seats, where restlessly disposed individuals may pro- menade. * Trains pass over turnpike roads without the smallest ceremony, but a warning is posted up to " look out for the engine while the bell rings." 4 n<>i| of *i .-5 ■ carl we ' tlul INTRODUCTION 11 lollars lor Je.s. Tjie 't'l- on it, 'Ji is con- ^<- is very •tnidu in nil cout- I off by it were p; towns, t^ea oiit- tJiree or 3od and It lets early to people in and Every *en tlie y pro- (lallest )ut for 'The country tliron^di tlie wiiolo journey is nioiiofo- nous. r missed tlii* siniliuj^' fields, tlie shci-p, tlic cattle of old Eu'-liind. Till! houses, too, stand on the roughest l^Tound, and few of them have uny (,'ardens. 'When we uot to New York the en<dne left us: the cars were separated ; four horses jittached to each ; and we were '^vawn, still kccpinjj^ on trams, throuj^di one of the o-reat avenues of the city. 'The ]]roadway nt Xew York is certainly a very fnio street; but the houses are very nneijnal in size, and conseciuently extremely dissimilar in appearance. 'The American i)rivate carriages are of the most eccen- tric forms; many of them exceedingly light, the better to "go-a-head" in. They have all good horses, and indeed the commonest vehicles are drawn by excellent cattle, all of which are in first-rate condition, and much superior to our poor battered cab horses. They, most of them, come from the Western States. The hackney-coaches in New York are like private car- riages, and verv comfortable. ' The city has some exceedingly fine puhlic buildings ; one, the Custom PEouse, built after the model of the Parthenon at Athens. *The City Hall is splendid, and built of white marble. It has an immense bell on the top which tolls in case of fire. These occur almost nightly ; and on the first night of my arrival I had the opportunity of witness- ing a very large one, which destroyed property to the amount of nearly 80,000 dollars. ' The fire brigade is composed of young volunteers. )a CANADA AND THE CIIIMEA Tlir service; is most anluous and liazardous, .'md tlic exposure to iill kinds of weather very injurious to hcMltli; l)ut it is popular, jis it procures exemption from serving in tlie militia or on a jury. One of the fireiiK'ii was killed at the tire I saw, hy fallin;^' throuL,di a tnip-door. *T}ie engines are preceded Ity a vehicle with tlie hose attached to it, and a lari^e bell which rin<'s as it moves alonjx. The nnnd)er of the emrine, on a red lantern, is carried in front, and the carriages are drawn by th(! firemen and volunteers. ' I saw this morning, from the papers, that the crowd and I liad an exceedingly narrow t^scape. Wt; liad all been standing on the brink of a precipice, as the fire was close to an immense spirit store, which escaped ignition almost by a miracle, .and wduch, had tlu; flames reached it, would have exploded with a force sufficient to cause the destruction of all things animate and in- animate in its vicinity. ' How secure we feel on the brink of the stream which may engulph lis ! *New York is built with beautiful regularity, and promises to be a gigantic place. Broad roads with trees planted on each side (a common and beautiful custom in the States) run along, at regular distances from and parallel to each other, from north to south. These are intersected by cross streets at right angles, many of which extend right across Long Island from shore to shore, and are almost as broad as the avenues. Some of these latter are five or six miles long and pell l.ni for' are! tiuf on looi i a I ! IMP' AUCTION IS , .'hkI the urioiis tn 'xciiiptidii IK' of thi^ ; through with the ings as it >u !i red re drawn be crowd e liud all the fire escaped (! flames ufficient and in- stream y, and Is with aiitiful stances south, 'ingles, from onues. g and 1 perfectly straiglit; they are crossed by more than 130 hroad roail,««, *TiineoidyiH re<[uire(l to fdl up this gigantic jtlan for a vast cify. As yet the avenui.'s and cross streets arc lined '^ith hctDscH merely in the ik ighl)i»urliood of the city; eisewliere the li(»li?ies are scattered. *Irisiinien arc; the tools with which ,Ionathan cirrics on his vast works. Their huts are the oidy wretched- looking aitodes 1 have seen. ' Everywhere there is chiauliness and comfort :d)out the houses, and an air of prosperity, very different IVnm the misery and strtiggling poverty of the nupthcr- country. ' "W'stenhiy T visited the (inn-nwood Cemetery in Hrookiyn, iivv or six miles from New ^'ork, a lovely ])lace, occupying nearly 2'>() acres of ground, and richly wooded. 'Some of the monuments are in good ttistc, and have touching and aj)propriate inscriptions. One of them had simpl}" a group of forget-monot flcnvers with the single word "Mother" underneath. 'This certainlv affected me, and carried niv thoULfhts homo, which I shall he deligiited to see whenever my wanderings cease. After all, there is no place like Old EnLfland. ' Th(! morning I left Xew York was inauspicious and gloomy, so that I saw the TFudson to disadvantage. AVe had light enough, however, to see the Palisade, a famous line of rocks on the left bank, perpendicular, and 300 feet high. They extend for some distance, and I 14 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ,1 aro crowned with trees, presentiuf^ a very romantic appearance. The scenery at West Point (fifty-two miles from New York) deliglited me. In summer, and f.t sunset, it must be ex([uisite. The shores of the river are very bohl, and composed of richly wooded hills ; and the river just here makes a fine sweep, which has a very beautiful effect. 'The ^Military College is conducted on somewhat similar principles to the Academy at Woolwich, though in some respects on a stricter plan. The cadets are admitted from the age of seventeen, and generally get their commissions before twenty-three. They are all kej^t at the college four years, during which they have only two months vacation. At the end of four years, if able to pass the examination (which not more tlian one third are) they graduate, and receive commissions, haviufT choice according to merit. The Enu'ineers is the highest service out here. They have a fi.st-rate education, and are instructed in several branches not essentially necessary to a military man. They have no study during the summer months, (when West Point is crowded with company) but live in tents, and are con- stantly at drill, going through all the duties of a private soldier. Their uniform is quiet and useful — grey, with black stripe down the trowsers, and round brass buttons on the coats, which have short tails, like our cavalry. There is a grand-nephew of Napoleon studying here, the grandson of Jerome, whose wife, JNIadame Buona- parte, lives at l^altimore. He has a family-likeness to the great EmjDeror, and is a clever fellow, and w'll INTRODUCTION 15 ly romantic t (fifty-two iimmer, and of the river d hills ; and t'hich has a I somewhat ich, though cadets are ^nerally get hey are all 1 they have )ur years, if re than one )mmissions, iigineers is a fi. st-rate ■anches not ey have no ^\st Point is d are con- )f a private -grey, with ^ss buttons ir cavalry, ying here, le Buona- likeness to and w'll i prol)al)ly push his fortunes in France, when his educa- tion is completed. * There is a cemetery for the cadets, very beautifidly situated on a high point near the river. It appears, from the inscriptions, that it is customary when a cadet dies, for his class to erect his monument. On another part of the shore, amid a grove of trees, stands one to the memory of Kosciusko, who I believe was of great assistance to the American arm v.' 16 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA clui CHAPTEE II. g simi MOOSE HUNTING A CANADIAN FIRE. •N ' Quoboc, April 1852. ^"{"OW for the moose hunting. I wished very much to have gone out lust winter, as several officers of the garrison did, and returned successful ; hut my hopes were blighted by my commanding officer refusing me leave. ' This year, when I got leave, I found some difficulty in getting a companion. At last a Lieutenant O'Brien, of the 54th Eegiment, offered himself, was accepted, and the start arranged. ' ]\Ioose are found on both shores of the St. Law- rence, but are more numerous on the south than on the north. They are seldom met with much to the south of Quebec. They return year after year to the same neighbourhood. Though shot down without mercy both by the settlers and the Indians, the hunters say that their numbers appear rather to increase than diminish. They are probably wanderers which roam free and unmolested through the immense pine forests of North America. ' The moose is identical with the elk. He is a large. the}J I MOOSE HUxNTING 17 Lpril 1852. veiy much ral officers 1 ; ])iit my ir refusing 3 difficulty t O'Brien, accepted, St. Law- tlian on eh to the ear to the without e hunters ease than ich roam ne forests s a Large, chunsy-looking animal, with very long, powerfid k^gs, a large head, with a remarkable nose or mouffle, hirge ears, a hump on the neck, a mane, and a long tuft of hair under the chin ; his eye rather small, and without the eloquence of the gazelle's ; his tail remarkable, and similar in shape to a hare's. He has a cloven foot, like the deer tribe, and sinks at each stride nearly to the fviU depth of the snow. His colour is generally a greyish brown ; the hair of his fur long, his antlers corresponding to his size, but only procurable in sum- mer, or at the very commencement of winter. His skin is converted into mocassins, snow shoes, &c. His hair is dyed and worked on bark, or cloth. In the summer time moose are shot from the water. ]MaRy are lost in this sport, as, if not killed by the first bullet, they run away into the bush and die there. * In the summer time they frequent the banks of rivers, whither they repair to cool their limbs, escape the mosquitoes, and feed off the roots and stems of a small water lily, of which they are passionately fond. * They will drive their heads and shoulders three or four feet under water to secure this " bonne bouche." ' The hunters who were to accompany us into the bush lived at a settlement called East P>ampton, on the River Etchman, about forty-two miles from Quebec. They were Irishmen ; four brothers, fine-spirited, honest fellows, perfectly at home in the woods, and accustomed for years to the chase of the moose. They were su- perior, in several points of view, to the Indians who were in the habit of accompanying parties on these 11 \\: IS CANADA AND THE CRIMEA liuntini*- expeditions, as they worked liarder and mon; clieerfiilly, and were much more desirable as com- panions. Their farms beintj^ covered witli snow, and a dead letter, as it were, for so many montljs in the year, they take to hunting every winter as an occupa- tion, realising a very snug little sum by the sale of moose skins, mouffles, &c., and from the liberality of the gentlemen who may chance to re([uire their services as hunters. ' On the two days preceding our start Quebec was visited by one of the heaviest snow storms that had been witnessed even in that favoured city ; but on the day we left all nature was at rest. The sun shone brightly, and not a breath disturbed the surface of the stately river as we crossed it in our canoe. ' Accidents occasionally occur to canoes in crossing the St. Lawrence in the winter, from their getting jammed between the stationary ice on the borders of the river and that which is being carried down with immense force by the stream. A canoe, or boat, getting between these opposing masses, is literally tossed up in the air like a shuttlecock, and its living contents scattered. We were entertained with an agreeable description of an accident of this kind while crossing. ' We got a couple of sleighs at the landing-place (Point Levi), and proceeded on our journey, over roads rendered execrable by the recent fall of snow. ' After travelling about eleven hours, we found our- selves, at ten o'clock at night, in a small house, thirty- six 1 and M ing 1 wear ^tum sett'u next of t miles .■1 .«-^ MOOSE HUNTING 19 r and more le as com- snow, and a iths in the an occiipa- the sale of iiberality of leir services Quebec was s that had hut on the sun slione 'face of the in crossinix eir wttin<2- borders of down with or boat, is literal! j^ 1 its living [ with an this kind iding'-place over roads ound our- ise, tliirty- j six miles from our starting point, very mucli shaken and very tired. 'Our road lav throuijh several neat, clean, and flourish- ing French Canadhm villages; the country about them wearing the appearance of cultivati(m, and cleared of stumps (an indication of the length of time it had i)eeu settled). We reached the shanty of our frishmen on the next day. We were in a new country ; in the place (if the comfort and cleanliness we had left but a few miles behind us, were Irish dirt, Irish architecture, and Irish p(jvertv. Our hunters' dwellin<»: was a rude, mi- finished cottage, with three small windows, and a door in front, kept shut during the winter; a deticient pane supplied by some paper stuck to tlu; sash 1y a fork, which, being called in recpiisition at dinner-time, as ])art of the family plate, the fresh air of heaven was permitted to enter, and chill the apartment unob- structed. ' <,)ne end of the principal apartment (and there were but two, besides a kind of attic) was occupied, on our arrivril, by five or six sheep with their interesting pro- geny, who were too delicate to be exposed, at that cold season, to the chilly atmosphere of a barn. ' The place was dirty ; but the inhabitants formed to- gether a group which pleased me. ' Two of our hunters, fine, intelligent young fellows, lived there with their mother — a mother of fourteen children. The elder of the two was married, and his family had evidently a prospect of being transformed, ;it no distant period, from the singular to the plural c 2 so CANADA AND THE CRIMEA : f number. The wife was a young, and rather plain girl, but her features were stamped with honest good feeling and cheerfulness, so indispensable in the companion of a poor man. Their only child, however, was spoiled. 'Our hunters made their preparations, during the afternoon, for our start on the day following. At night I slept on the floor ; O'Brien in a bed in the same room. We breakfasted at daybreak, and made trac^ on our snow-shoes about an hour afterwards. Snow-shoeing is hard work when the snow is loose, as it was when we started, and as it continued during the whole of the time we were in the bush. When the surface of the snow has been partially thawed by rain, or the heat of the sun, and frozen again, a crust is formed, which is scarcely broken by a snow-shoe, and over which you can walk with ease and comfort. ' Each of our four hunters drew a small Indian sleigh (or " tarboggin ") after him, laden with provisions, buffalo robes, &c. We took with us hard biscuit, flour, split-peas, rice, onions, tea, sugar, anu brandy, with a few pounds of pork. We speculated on soon obtaining moose meat. * The snow-shoeing was very heavy ; and we were glad enough, after a fatiguing tramp of nine or ten hours, to arrive at a spot suitable for the formation of a camp. It was on the borders of the river Etchman. The camp was formed thus : — a hole, about ten feet by seven, was dug out with snow-shoes; two trees, selected as supporters for the ridge-po^e of our roof, were felled to within about seven f:ct of the ground; the of I the the -I MOOSE HUNTING 21 ' i)l.-iin girl, ood feelinfif mpjinion of ? spoiled, diirinof the At night same room. Clip on our '^-shoeing is is when we lole of the face of the ;he heat of d, which is icli you can iian sleigh provisions, cuit, flour, dy, with a obtaining we were tie or ten mation of tchman. t ten feet wo trees, our roof, ground ; ^ the rid^e-pole rested on these, and the roof was formed of boughs, covered with green fir branches, the ends of the boughs resting on the ridge-pole, and sticking into the snow. ' A fire, extending right across the hole, was lighted at one end of it, and at first smoked horribly, almost blinding us. Of course, with such rude implements as snow-shoes, we coidd only partially clear the ground of snow ; all discrepancies, however, were hidden by fir branches, over which we spread our buffalo robes. We slept, of course, with our clothes on. I wore a habi- tan's " bonnet rouge," a thick red woollen night-cap, and over this I drew the head of my blanket-coat. * Thus, with a hard carpet-bag for a pillow, and a blanket rolled round me, I lay down to repose, with the clear sky as a canopy above my head, and the bright moon shining full in front of me, with my head within a few inches of the snow-wall of our cabane, and my feet close to a blazing fire, and sometimes almost burnt by it. I slept badly the first night ; the cold was intense, and perhaps the strangeness of my position drove away the drowsy god. Next morning, after a hurried meal, we started again, shortly after seven o'clock, intending to form our hunting camp two or three miles further on. We crossed some moose tracks during our journey. Our hunters left their packs and diverged: we followed, hoping for sport ; but, after walking some miles, we crossed the snow-shoe track of some Indians, who had evidently anticipated us. In the woods, if a man dis- covers, what is called, a moose-yard, or, in other words. i ■ .1 22 CANADA AND THE CIJIMEA finds traces of moose, he has a riglit to hunt the moose tliiis discovered, Jis long as tlie print of his snow-slioes is visihle. This is a <j;eneral hxw in lnintin<x, and is gene- rally respected. Occasionally, however, a dispute arises as to the right of privity ; and onr hunters told us an anecdote of an encounter they liad had with four Indians bound for the vsame yard as they, and who, at first, ass(n"ted their rights to the huntintr of it. Onr men explained that they were the first discoverers; the red men appearcnl satisfied. Jioth parties professed feelings of mutual friendship, and loaded their guns. At night they rested in a eabane, with a fire between them, and each man's gun at his head, watching one another, the Indians continually coming to the fire to light tlieir pipes, and neitlier party sleeping a wink. Each expected an attack from the other. Incidents of this kind rarely occur, and the Irish and Indians are, generally speaking, on good terms. After our first dis- appointment, we continued our march three or four miles further, and leaving two men in camp, O'Brien and myself started off, in different directions, with the other two. We all returned unsuccessful in the even- ing ; trucks of moose had, indeed, been discovered, but near them, likewise, had been found the foot-prints of our rivals the Indians. Our hunters were annoyed. "We had lost," they said, " through those infernal rascals, six or seven moose. The Indians had never hunted on those grounds before : they had anticipated them merely to spite them, and to prevent a repetition of the preced- ing year's success." They did not, however, at all de- bt wit cai UK MOOSE HUNTING S3 the moose )W-shoes is 1(1 is gene- )iite arises old lis ail with four 1(1 who, at ■ it. Our 'rers; the professed leir guns, e between ?}iing one he tire to j; a wink, cidents of dians are, • first dis- t or four ', O'Brien with the the even- ered, })nt ■prints of annoyed, il rascals, unted on n merely s preced- it all de- spair, liiit only regretted the additional time and trouble necessary for the accomplishment of tJieir object. ' Xext morning, directly after our rude r('[)ast had been completed, I started with my man, and ( )'lb-ien with liis; the other two were left behind to tend tho cainp, prepare pea-soup for dinner, and look out for moose-yards. 'We had a hard day's walk. Our want of success made our hunters energetic; they were dciermined to find moose. We came continually on frosh tracks, only to ])e as continually disappointed by finding close beside them the tracks of tlie Indians, who seemed to haunt us like a shadow. 'We started from the clearings on Wednesday. This was Friday, our third night in the bush. Just })efore our return to camp we found a moose-yard about Hve or six miles from our w^oody mansion. Our hunters were full of conjectures as to whether it had shared the fate of the other discoveries, and had been already hunted ; it was too late then to ascertain this. AVe resolved to return there the next day. We did so, and were successful. We killed between us three moose, a cow and two calves. They gave us a pretty sharp run. ' The one I shot was a young bull. When I got up to him he was standing, panting and exhausted, with the snow up to his chest ; he was a small moose, not more than five feet six inches at the shoulder, but still a fine animal. ' After he was despatched we heard shots close to 94 CANADA AM) THE CRIMF-A -, t US, hurried on, and found another moose at l)ay, and wounded, with the dogH })arkin<jf at him. I fired, and hit liim in tlie shoulder; but my charj^e of powder was not lar^e enough, and still he lived. O'Brien (who was not so active on snow shoes as myself) came up and shot him through the head. He dropped •without a groan. The slioulder, and behind the ear, are the two most vital points. M)'Er;en killed a large cow with one bullet just behind the ear. He was a very good shot, and had had a great deal of practice, wild-boar hunting, in the West Indies. ' The cow was a huge beast, upwards of seven feet at the shoulder. ' Immediately after the moose were shot the hunters proceeded to skin them, and cut off their mouffles, tongues, and mocassins. They likewise cut out the kidneys, and a few steaks, leaving the mangled car- cases in the snow. ' The poor settlers dravv uway a great deal of moose meat thus abandoned, for their use during the winter. The Indians, after they have killed a moose, allow the settlers to have all the rest of the carcase for their trouble in drawing out the hind quarters, which are sold at the rate of fourpence a pound at Quebec ; and, if kept long enough, are very good eating. We got back late, and tired. However, our supper of moose kidneys fried with onions was excellent. * Next day being Sunday I resolved to stay in camp ; and my toes were so very sore from the snow-shoe have The MOOSE HUNTING 25 lUet just and had g, in the vcn feet hunters Tiouffles, out the led car- f moose winter. allow "or tlieir ich are c ; and, We got moose camp; )w-shoe straps, that whatever the day had ])een J ^Urmld sc. <!e1y liave been able to walk. O'Brien remained with 'uc. The men went out to look for a yard, and found one. ' We started after it the next morning, wlien I found that, in addition to my sore toes, I was sufft-ring acutely from luml)ago. * I sliall not readily forget the pain and fatigues of this day. We were six hours in getting up to our moose. I was mentally wishing them at the bottom of the sea, during this interval. When we got up to them I forgot my troubles. * I killed a moose to-day by a shot just above tlie eye. A dog was holding on by his nose all the time, and the moose striking fiercely at him with his fore feet. It is very dangerous to get within ten or fifteen yards of one, however severely wounded he may be. He collects all his strength and runs at you, and if he gets up to you he will soon put an end to your life with a few strokes of his fore feet. * One of our hunters, who was carrying my gun in front, shot a large cow, which, being the case, she was considered my property, and I had her two fore feet taken off, and am now getting them worked by the Indians. * We reached our camp sometime after sunset, nearly dead ])eat. My lumbago, however, was gone. We were satisfied with our success, and resolved to make tracks for the clearings. On the next day (Tuesday), when we awoke at sunrise, we found snow falling, and we made a journey in this one day of nearly eighteen LT. CANArtA AM* Tin; ( UIMKA ' f nil I) Ics 111 rouL:ii vcrv li« mvv ( Irift: ( hir liuntrrs were hiinrrd t(» leave tlieir t.'irl)(i^'<:fiiis, witli most of tho traps, alxMil four miles from the (•learilli,^ us they were !ifra,i(l of (larkiM .1 le t( ess eomiiiL^ on, and <tiir heiiiL;' iinaiue to fhid the hlazed line. In the hush we were in the haliit of liiuliiiiT the tinu hv <.l )servinir the 1 (11 rill'' of the sun with ii [)ocket compass. On a clear day, witli u compass, a man uccnstomed to the W(m)(1s is never afraid (»f losing liiinself. We reached (^uehec on Thursday.'' A CiUKuliait Fur. 'Mnntrcal, .Inly lltli, lsr)L>, 'More than 1200 houses have been eonsumed by tire in this city, during Thursday and Friday last. My house escaped by a miracle, bnt my sleighs were both ])urnt, and I have lost several tilings in moving my furniture, tte., to the wharf. 'The fire broke out about nine crdock on Thursday morning, in one of the suburbs of the town. The water-pipes are being changed for larger ones, and during the cliange it was found necessary almost to empty the reservoir which supplies Montreal with water. Consecpiently, scarcely any means were avail- able for stopping the flames. ]Most of the houses in the suburbs, and nearly all the outbuildings attached to large houses in the hea."^- of the city, are of wood, with wooden roofs. Tlie weather had been very hot for several days previous to the tire, and the thermometer during Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, stood at 96° in 1 til I" ill' 9 U () ■ k 1 III 1 nl 1 iii\ 'jak K. i a_ A CANAr)IAN I NIK S7 fcrs were st of till! tlicy were iitinltic to the lialiit i^ of the iv, with a is iH'V(!r U('l)ec on 1(1 l)y fin,' ast. Mv fcvG both )viiiLr mv Tliursday vn. The nes, and linost to L'al with re avail- louses in attached of wood, y hot for mometer at 06° in til ^liadf. It may he imii^^iiicd how dreadfully over- pi >\Vfrin;; this must have heeu, i-ombiiicd with the iiif*^iise hejif of a ra|;in^' lire, and liow readily the dry wooden roofs eau;,dit tht* flames. * The tir( sjjrcad with tearful rji[)idity, and soon iii» . need one of the lust stn-ets, eomposi'd priiu'ipally of liandsomc private residences. Here lived several of my friends, and my commandinj^ officer, Colonel Dixon, R.K., who w;is ahsent at (Quebec on duty. ' WIk'U I arrived at the scene of action, \ took a oetiend survey of the fire, .md reported to tlu^ fomman- d.int of the (iarrison what 1 thou^dit ought to be done to arrest its progress. Owing, however, to the universal confusion, and the wiint of water, nothing 1 suggested Wrus (lone. Finding that my professional services were useless, J applied myself to rescue property belonging to my friends; and, after cutting down and securing a large number of paintings in one house, I rushed to my coloners, and, assisted by soldiers of the Artillery and 2()th Kegiment, sncceeded in saving greater part of his furniture before the flames reached them. *■ By this time my eyes were almost closed with dust, and I was nearly exhausted with heat and fatigue; so 1 left the tire for a few nunutes, to procure some ))randy and soda-water. On my return I found the Hames had considerably increased, and I was sent for by the officer commanding the troops, introduced to the chief engineer of the city, and directed to blow up any houses he might indicate. It is perfectly useless to blow up wooden houses, as they offer scarcely any 8S CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 'i ! resistance to the gnnpowder, and the scattered frag- ments, instead of deadening, only serve to increase the fury of the flames. I, however, made an effort to arrest the fire ])y blowing up a large brick house with ninety pounds of gunpowder. I was assisted by tlie artillery in placing the charge, wliich, on account ()f the near proximity to the flames, and a quantity of straw which was lying scattered about, was a service of some danger. ' The bugles sounded the alarm, and the majority of the spectators withdrew ; however, notwithstanding all the bugles, and the loud shouts of the b3'standers, one man (whom, I conjecture, must have been half-drunk), persevered in maintaining his position on a log of wood close to the doomed house. Nothing woidd in- duce him to move; and I was at last compelled, at my o^vn risk, to run foj'ward, and carry him off in my arms, amidst the cheers of the mob. ' The explosion brought the house completely to the ground, but, owing to the number of wooden buildings on all sides, was not sufficient to arrest the fire. I rode four different horses during the day, and was galloping about for several hours, with my clothes torn, in all directions. ' The soldiers, both of the Artillery and 20th Regiment, exerted themselves in the most praiseworthy manner, and afforded a most striking contrast to the apathy and brutality of the mob. The Roman Catholic arch- bishop's palace was involved in the general destruction, amid the despairing prayers of the pri'^sts ; one of whom, A CANADIAN FIRE 29 ered frajr- crease the effort to louse with :■(! hy tlie iccoimt of lantity of service of majority of iiding all iders, one f-drunk), a log of voidd in- id, at my my arms, 'ly to the buildinjxs . I rode galloping ii, in all egiment, manner, J apathy lie areh- ("ruction, f whom, it is said, threw himself across the road, with a crucifix in liis liand, and prayed God to permit the fire to proceed no further. At last about haif-past-five, or six o'clock, the flames appeared completel}' subdued. I returned home and changed my clothes, and was issuing from my house, at about half-past-seven, when I met the wife and daughter of my colonel, whom I accompanied to the Artillery stores, to assist them in recovering some of their property which had been placed there during the nun-ning. We had just loaded a cart with some of their effects, when we observed a dense column of smoke issuing up behind Dalhousie Stjuare (near which I reside), and where were situated our mess and offices. Mrs. Dixon (who is an old huly), was exceedingly nervous, and much alarmed when she perceived this second fire breaking out. I used all my effoits to soothe her, and accompanied her and her daughter to their hotel. Just before w^e arrived, several horses running wnldly, without bridles, came down the street. I knew in a moment, that the stables belomjinir to the officers of the 20th Regiment were on fire, and was very anxious to get to my own house. The old lady, however, was so frightened, that I did not like to leave her, and remained mitil the cab with her things arrived, and then returned to get a fresh load. Leaving the cab at the store with her servant, I ran to my <iwn house, where I found my servant had packed \\\) most of my things, and my groom had removed my carriage and horses into the street. All the out-buildings at the back of my house are of wood, and as dry as tinder ; the 30 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ' 1 1 ^1 MM! I '>■ 'I ii M wind, however, was carrying the fire steadily away from them. ' Al.MUit eight or nine men came and volunteered their services to remove my j^roperty; and a friend kept guard over my things as tliey were moved to the rear of my house. To him, indeed, I feel myself, in a great degree, indebtf^l for their preservation. ' I found my groom with my carringe and horses, not knowing what to do, and unable to manage tlie horses by himself. I took them from him ; and he, assisted by a 20th private, drew my carriage after me to an hotel in the neighbourhood. ' The fire was, at this time, to the highest degree grand and terrific. An enormous hotel, the largest in the city, was burning. The flames consumed the vast building, and no less than nine or ten stone houses, iu less than two hours. The fire was communicated from these build • ings to my side of the street ; and it was only from the fact, that my house is situated at the back of the barracks occupied by tlie 20th Regiment, and, consequently, that every exertion was made by the troops to prevent the fire spreading in that direction, that it was preserved. While eno-aged in removing mv tliinLi's, I heard an ex- plosion; and, leaving m}^ servants to look after my property, I hastened to the fire, to ascertained whether my services might not be required to blow up houses, ttc. There were only three engineer officers present at the fire, four being absent on leave or duty. I repaired to the head of the fire, and remained there, being ijraduallv driven backwards by the flames, for several 'I 1 in th 2 great I and fouiul and ii I tion, I 'y are i . i A CANADIAN FIRE 31 way from sred their end kept t the rear 11 a great orses, not :he horses , assisted J an hotel ree grand n the city, huilding, ^ than two se build • from the barracks ntlv, that 3vent the )reserved. rd an ex- after my whether p houses, ^resent at repaired •e, beinu' ►r several >iours. I was the only officer present at this spot, all the otliors being near tlie barracks, engaired in their ])r('servation. The corporation of the city begged me to blow up ;uiy house whose destruction 1 thought would retard tlie fire ; and they brought up a tpiantity (if gunpowder, with some wet blankets (])y iny desire), iu a canoe. I blew up two houses evidently doomed for destruction; but, there being no water at hand, and tlie wooden buildings souk; distance in advance of the burning houses being in Hames, the attempt w;is futile. ' I found, vfhen I approached my house at two o'clock in the morning, tliat it was still in existence thouuh in great danger. I obtained a fevered sleep of an liour and a half, and then rose and went to the wharf. I found my servants there, looking very paleimd fagged, and all around furniture and baggage of every descrip- tion, and groups of poor men and women. ' More than 1(),()()0 persons have been burnt out, and are now livin^x in the tields, or under tents and sheds supplied to t'lem by Government. ' What makes this terrible calamity the more appalling is, that there can hardly be any doid)t that it was mainly owiufj to incendiaries. Even the night after the fire, people were arrested in the act of setting fire to build in<)fs. 'The head-quarter Engineer Office, the District Office, and the General Office, have been burnt. Almost all our plans {some most valuable), papers, and records destroyed. The flames spread with such rapidity, that 32 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA it was scarcely possible to save anything from these buildings. ' I shall never forget this fire, or the fatigue, anxiety, and exertion, I underwent. I may well thank God for the safety of my own life and of most of my property.' aiv\ it i = I i ! I ' i )m these 33 anxiety, : God for opevty.' CHAPTER III. TRAVELLING IN THE UNITED STATES. I 'Montreal, Feb. lOtli, 185,3. LEFT Montreal to commence what Madame de Stael calls " one of the saddest plousures in life " to- day. My journey had a gloomy commencement, as I was late for the train, and obliued to wait four hours and a half in an unfurnished and melancholy waiting- room till another started. I employed the time in reading a couple of articles in the " Westminster Re- view," and was commencing another on the eternal sub- ject of " American Slavery," and " Uncle Tom's Cabin," when the " bus " from Montreal bro\ight over its party of passengers going by the train, whicli I was certainly not this time too late for. Among the travellers I recognised Lect and Dewar in company with some American ladies, whom they -were escorting to the terminus. Lect introduced me to his fair friends. 'The party (with whom I travelled for the greater part of this day and the next) consisted of an old lady and gentleman and three girls. They were nativevS of Boston, and thither bound. The old lady I found afterwards in conversation to be a well-read, observant. m CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ! ;'ii t : acute, and energetic woman, — a type of a large class in the States. She talked to nie of her own country, and of Canada ; of the energy and rapid development of the one, and of the torpor and apparently self-satisfied stag- nation of the other ; but was much pleased with both Montreal and (Quebec: she was ac(|uainted with some of the leading men in the States, and had heard and admired some of its most eloquent orators. She spoke of Mr. Ingersoll, the new American minister, and here betrayed that feeling of reverence for wealth which is so distinctive a trait in the Yankee character. She thought Mr. Ingersoll woidd not be able to main- tain his position with such eclat as his predecessor Mr. Lawrence, as he was not nearly so rich a man. T endeavoured to convince her to the contrary, by assur- ing her that, though money had its due influence in England, yet wealth and position were by no means synonymous terms. ' We reached Rouses Point at a (|uarter-past six, at half-past seven were entertained with a meagre and unsatisfactory supper, and retired to rest (at least J did) very soon after, having visions before me of a journey of eighteen hours on the morrow. ^ Friday, Feb. llth. — Rose at a little after 5 a.m., after passing a restless night, principally owing to a propensity for walking up and down the passage out- side my room, developed by an individual in thick boots. Ate some tough beefsteak and swallowed a cup of weak tea, and then resumed my journey. My new friends travelled with me as far as Windsor ; and by the » ^J^' AGREEABLE TRAVELLING COMPANIONS .35 ! class in itry, and it of the ied stuy;- ith both ith some 3ard and he spoke iter, and r wealth iharacter. to main- essor Mr. man. 1 by assur- iience in 10 means ist six, at agre and Lt least I me of a er 5 A.M., ^in*)- to a Bsage oiit- in thick A'ed a cup My new ,nd by the time we arrived there, I found mvself talkins? to tlie vomitr ladies with the freedom of a friend, instead of the reserve of one day's accpiaintance. They cliatttjd away very f;.imiliarly and cheerfidly, and shook liands (piite affectionately when we parted, ho[)ing I would come and see them if ever at Boston. They were in- telligent girls, and had apparently read most of the current publications of tlie day. I was amused at the jividity with wiiioh one of them devoured a newspaper, — not so generally appreciated by th(» fair sex at home, — and at tlie eager manner with which they studied, in the pages of a magazine, a picture of a new, and in my opinion hideous, fashion in dress. They did not pos- sess that refinement which is so characteristic of an English lady, and their manners would certainly not have been considered perfection at home ; but, spite of tills they were " cute," kind-hearted, and sociable, and, at all events, pleasant travelling companions for a soli- tary l)achelor, who is delighted at the opportunity of occasionally escaping the melancholy and solitary com- panionship of his own thoughts. * The Vermont central railroad, by which I travelled from Montreal to New York, traverses here and there some pretty bits of scenery, and skirts for some dis- tance the waters of the Connecticut river. The green mountains are the most striking natural object on the route. The traveller is generally doomed to monotony iu journeying through the States. Flat tracks of par- tially cleared wild land form the staple of the scenery. The thriving appearance of all the towns and villages, D 2 ae CANADA AND THE CRIMEA however, on the route, and the observations you hoar made by travellers concerning their sudden rise; and rapid growth, lead you, without any violent stretcli of the imagination, to depict to yourself the altered aspect of wild and barren nature, in a few years, beneath the genial influences of energy and industry. The desolate swamps, disfigured by blackening stumps, will then teem with a golden harvest, or be transformed into grassy meads, and all nature around will " burst forth into singing and gladness." Railway travelling for many hours together is very tedious and fatiguing. I certainly had a dose of it to-day. After a bud night's rest, I travelled from six in the morning till twelve at night, arriving sleepy and weary at the Metropolitan Hotel, New York, about the latter hour. Here, in- stead of turning into a comfortable bed, I was obliged to be content with a shake-down in a tiny cot in Ji small bath-room, every room in the hotel being en- gaged, and several sitting-rooms having already been converted into public bed-rooms. My bed was so placed (and almost necessarily so from the size of the apartment), that were I to have had troubled dreams and roll over its side, I should inevitably have found myself in a dry but cold bath. I altered things as well as I could ; and consoling myself with the reflection that at sea the rooms were still smaller than the one I was in, gently sunk into the arms of " Murphy.^'' ^ Feb. \2th. — I availed myself of my position this morning to have a most luxurious cold and shower bath, indulging in both at the same time. After -f. sidei BROADWAY NEW YORK 87 u hoar so and .^tcli of aspoct ith the lesolate II then lmI into St forth ing for ling. I , night's ,velve at op<jlitan ore, in- obliged ot in a ■ing en- dv been Avas so of the (U-eams ^e found hings as •eflection he one I tion this 1 shower After various exorcises of ingenuity witli regard to sp,'vo<^, I managed to clotlio myself, and walked downstairs to breakfast. "The Metropolitan Hotel" (which T was now able to examine a little more minutely and dosidy than I had been the evening before) is one of those gigantic palaces with which it delighteth the Yankees to adorn their great Broadway. ' Its dimensions, and the number of people it will accommodate, I mean to ascertain before leaving. It has ])een built within the last two or three years, and was not in existence, or probably even not thought of, when I was at New York in tlie spring of 1850. Then the Astor House was the great hotel ; — novj it is con- sidered, by the sid(^ of its young and gigantic rival, quite an ordinary biulding. * After breakfast I walked down the far-famed Broadway to Wall Street, armed with a letter of credit for 500 dollars. The day was lovely, and as warm as April in England ; everything looked gay and smiling, and I felt my spirits rising under the genial influence of new scenes and a new climate. I got my draft cashed, took a hack-carriage, and drove to houses near Broadway, to the occupants of which I had brought letters from Judge Day of Montreal. After driving about for an hour and a half at a snail's pace (the carriage being taken by the hour), I paid two dollars for the pleasure of being bored, and proceeded to climb the staircase leading to the summit of Trinity Church, Broadway, the finest in New York. An ascent of 308 steps brought me almost to the top of the spire 88 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA :. I but before reachinji^ this enviable elevation I had en- joyed the inaj^nificent view coinniauded ))y the Church from a hunibh'r altitude. The vast city, teeming with life, bustle, and activity, lay at my feet. The beautiful harbour, with its coasts reflected in the calm blue w^ater, bathed in sunshine, encircled it. Tlie white sails of numerous elegant craft glittered in tlie bright and joyous light, and gave character and animation to the tranquil expanse over which they glided. Men widking below in the busy Jiroadway seemed like moving specks on the earth's surface. There they were toiling for business or for pleasiu'e, and playing their great and little parts on the stage of life ! New York, embraced in a coup (Vui'd from this point, impresses the spectat jr by the breadth and grandeur of its streets, and by the magnitude of some of its blocks of buildings, as well as with the regularity v.'ith which it has been laid out. When the plan for this vast city is filled up (and who can tell, with the energy of its populace, v;]ien that may be), it will assiu-edl} be worthy of being called the capital of the world. * The interior of Trinity Church (in which I was not sorry to find myself after the fatigue of climbing) is rich and handsome, but rather somlu-e. The style is Oothic, and the building itself is, I believe, con- sidered the best specimen of that style in America. It has a very rich stained glass window over the altar, with figures of our Saviour and four Evangelists in- troduced. Over the central figure, on two glass com- partments, are the significant Greek letters, Alpha and k V AMEHICAN LAPIES 30 lad en- Chiircli iLT witli niutiful :n blue :' white ■?. ])riglit ation to ]Meii ed like re they playing ! New ^ point, •raudeur e of its •ity with for this e ener<]^y issiiredly Id. ;h I was limbing) "'he style ve, con- rica. It he altar, elists in- hiss com- Ipha and Omega. The Hisliop of New York usually officiates in this Church ; and I was told that lie would preach on Sunday, and hold a contirniation afterwards. The (-hurch is surrounded by a small burial-ground, filled with plain, unpretending monuments. A new one, of rather more ambitious character than the rest, is erected to Captain l^awrence, who fell in the cele- brated action between the Ches.apeake and the Shannon. An iuscriptictn in suitable and dignified language records the virtues of the deceased, and liis claims on the gratitude of his countrymen. ' Leaving the Chiu'ch, well satisfied with my visit, I retraced my steps towards my hotel, my attention en- grossed by the gay crowd who, in their carriages and on foot, were out, breathing the pure delightful air and enjoying the fine weather. Many an expensive carriage and handsome showy pair of horses passed me, and occasionally a pretty face might be seen peeping from a window. I say occjisionally, for the New York ladies cannot, as a class, lay claim to great beauty. There is a strong family-likeness between them all, and a pecu- liar and characteristic, though not an agreeable, expres- sion in every face. Slight, fragile, and delicate figures, with feet and ankles which nught be envied, even in China, — faces filled with an eager, restless, though clever and intelligent, expression, — countenances unin- fluenced and unabashed by the gaze of a stranger (from the American habit of living so much in public), — a costume renunding one of the outre Paris fashions, — make a tout ensemble not altogether disagreeable or 40 CANADA AND TIIK ClSlMnA Hi I 1 witlifnit iDorits, ])ut wliicli nn Kiiglislniiiiii finds vory iMt'erior to that (•oiMl)iiiiiti(>ii of" rnvr and Ix'atitiful traits iind <{iialili(!s which make and characterise one of his fair conntryvvonien. Those wiio hav<; strolled down Regent Stieet and down liroadwiiy will at once see the contrast, and the advantage of it in favour of Old England. " CV7//7U "ium (Diuiiurn muitint qui trans mare currunf.'^ I think I shall always be of the same opinion on this point. ' I visitedon luy way hack to the ]VI(;tropolitan" Hisley's Moving Panorama of the Thames," and " Bryan's Pic- ture (lallery." f came in about the middle of the former exhibition, but was much pleased with what I saw. The painting is calculated to impress the ^'ankees with the greatness of England, and the beauties and in- teresting associations of "Old Father Thames." Its varied scenes carried me home again ; and I recognised with pleasure, not unmixed with regret, many a familiar spot connected with pleasing recollections. *" Bryan's Picture Gallery" is a small collection of paintings, collected at great trouble and expense from various parts of Europe ; several of them by Rubens, Teniers, Correggio, Kaffaelle, Giorgiune, Hogarth, &c., thougli none that could be called a favourable specimen of the styles of these great masters. A small female head, by Greuze, pleased me the best, and I was complimented by the man in charge for my taste, and told that that was considered one of the jrems of the collection. Two large paintings from Marshal Soult's gallery, the " Descent from the Cross," and the 1 « A( ■ play( m o'cl(» m will 1 is ex 1 (line 1 bein^ 1 toget 1 atteii m girl ( m for 1 1 table 1 ladief !|i A A VISIT TO WALLACKS THKATUE 41 ids vory X'HUtifuI rise one strolled at once ivoiir of '(lit qui ys bo of ^Risley's !ii»\s Pic- e former t I saw. c(^ea with and iii- es." ItH icognised I familial eetion of nse from Rubens, irMi, &c., ^specimen II female i I was Tiy taste, gems of Marshal ' and the I .1^ " Adoriitioti (if the Slicplierds," evince the eneri^y dis- played in pnicnriiig pictures. I dined at tlif tive o'clock ordinary at tlic Mitropojifan ; tlio tliiiing-rooin will easily contain upwards of 200 jjersons. Tlic dinner is excellent both in )i><if(h'ti'l and cookery. The ladies dine with the gentlemen, seats in pHrticulai- j)laces being generally pre-engaged for parties travelling tog(!ther. They dress very nicely, and with great attention to etfect. What a temptation to a pretty girl (brought up a I'Amei'Uun'nr) with j)lenfy of money for making herself the observed of all observers ! A tabl(! ufoddess I Whatever etfect all this mav have on ladies, it is agreeable enough to the gentlemen to have pretty faces to look at and admire, even though they may claim no more ac(iuaintance with their owners than a cat with a king. In the evenin<r I went to Wallack's Theatre in Jiroadway to see the " Lady of Lyons'' acted ; the theatre is a neat and ])retty one, the scenery and acting were both good, and the audience remarkably orderly and well-behaved: I had never seen Bulwer's celebrated play before, — it quite delightcMl me ! The beautiful character of Pauline Desdiappelles wjis sustained by Miss Laura Keene, and ample justice was done it by this accomplished and fascinating actress. The successful conquest of woman's deep unalterable love over her wounded pride and sense of wrong was niost touchingly and delicately rendered. Every feeling of woman's heart, — her love, disdain, contempt, devo- tion, pride, and despair, — were all truthfully an<l faith- fully pourtrayed. The character of Claude Melnotte, her 1:1' 'i ' 'i ■ \ .1 i 'I 42 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA lover, was likewise well acted, and the minor actors sufficiently good not to mar tlie interest of the piece. '^ Fabvuary VMh. — Snowing hard when I awoke. 1 gazed from the garret I occupied witli some satisfaction at the falling flakes, picturing to myself amusement in the spectacle of Yankee sleighing. I walked to Trinity Church, and heard the Bishop preach, and conlirm afterwards, as I had been led to expect I should. The sermon was good and much to the pc-int: it was on the subject of confessing Christ before men. [ took a long walk after church, traversing nearly the whole length of Broadway, and visiting the site of the pro- jected Crystal Palace. This latter is partially con- structed, and gives promise of being both an elegant and beautiful building. It looks infinitely smaller than the Exhibition building in England, and is situated <|uite in the outskirts of the town, on a piece of ground adjoining the great Croton Reservoir. The two erec- tions will be a striking contrast to each other, — evanes- cence and durability side by side. The neighbourhood of the chosen site is very wild and barren, and the buildiniTS in the vicinity by no mea,ns either picturesque or ornamental : we shall see what change the hand of man may be able to accomplish when the 1st of jNIay comes. An intelligent citizen, of whom 1 made some inquiries, informed me that there were to be all kinds of Hippodromes in the neighbourhood, .and that a French confectioner was about to erect a Fairy Palace, and dedicate it to cakes and gingerbread. ^I was much struck by the many noble-looking private AN EXrENSIYE DINNER BELLE 48 Dr actor.s piece, woke. 1 ;isfaction msement a Iked to icli, and I should, it was on I took a le whole the pro- dly con- i elegant lUer than situated f ground wo erec- -evanes- )ourhood and the turesque hand of of jMay de .some ill kinds that a ' Palace, 1 ^1 1 residences I passed on my way to this place. P'ifth Avenue, Union, and Madison Scjuares abound in them. Tiie number of the wealthy class, " the upper ten thousand " in New York, must be very considerable : mendicants there appear to be scarcely any, and I have only seen one object. The Irish supply the bone and sinew to Brother Jonathan for carrving out his enter- prising designs and specidations. An Irishman after a short residence in the States endeavours often to out- Vankee the Yankees themselves : he cultivates a peaked Itt-ard, fjuesses with a rich brogue, and wishes for a sallow complexion. This I cannot say I have en- countered myself, but I can easily believe it. To-day at dinner I sat close to a most gorgeously appar(!lled damsel, who but for her high cheek-bones might have been mistaken for a Frenchwoman ; she was dressed in a rich scarlet geranium-coloured silk gown, trimmed and ornamented with black, her hair brushed well hack, after the American fashion, and with " rings on her fingers," and, for aught I could tell to the contrary, " hells on her toes ; " her complexion was most delicate, and something between a maiden-blush and a peach- blossom. Altogether she was a bright object, and relieved the black coats of the men near her most admirably : she w^as stylish without being pretty or attractive ; had she been either of the latter, 1 should have spoken of her with more reverence. A Sunday evenine: in a larsre hotel wdiere you know no one is not I wrote some iournal, read three or likely /ely, .]< private four of Macaulay's speeches (which pleased me much), '■ ? 1 '. ■ I 1 I t li'. I [ '' i I S ' \M 44 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA and watched several happy pairs of ladies and gentlemen promenading up and down one of the large passages of the hotel. It struck me as rather a remarkable circum- stance, but one which I noted in many cases, that the doors of private sitting-rooms, in which ladies are sitting: talking- to one another, were almost invariablv left wide open, to afford passers-by an opportunity of belioldinfj and scrutinisinfj a series of small natural tableaux vivants. A young damsel, whom I judge from her eyes, complexion, and youth, to be fresh from the south and from school, has for the last day or two directed occasional glances at me, — not of love, but apparently of compassion for my solitary and isolated position. I endeavour in return to infuse as much gra- titude as I can into my looks, and I always, on sitting down at table, glance my eye round the room in search of my sensitive little friend. I shall begin soon to feel that we are acquainted, and shall perhaps, if I am near her and al)sent in mind, ask after her father in New Orleans, or whether she finds New York cold after the south. 'Feb. 14f/t. — Cold, but bright and cheerful. After breakfast I sauntered down Broadway, and visited several Law Courts in the City Hall. The absence of wigs and gowns is at first very striking to an Englishman. The judge, too, is by no means the same terrible and imposing person (whose very frown agitates the hair of a culprit) that we see adminis- trating justice at Westminster Hall or the Old Bailey. He is a simple citizen in a black coat, sitting in an arm- 1 1 i AMERICAN LAW COURTS 45 ntlemen 3sages of circum- that the Jies are variably unity of natural Ige from rom the or two ove, but isolated uch gra- Q sitting n search a to feel am near in New fter the After visited absence to an [IPS the y frown dminis- Bailey. iin arm- chair behind a kind of elevated desk. He is addressed as "the Court." The council engaged in several of the courts sat on opposite sides (if the term be admissible) of a round table, placed near the centre of the Court. They did not appear to me to conduct the examination and cross-examination of witnesses quite so regularly as an English barrister does; but they generally looked keen, 'cute men, ready to catch a point instantaneously, or detect any flaw in statement or argument. I was fortunate enough at the District Court of New York to hear a celebrated lawyer, a Mr. C. B. Cutting, plead a cause for the defence. He spoke more than three hours. I heard the latter half of his address, which struck me as very powerful and impressive. The charge against the prisoner, whose cause he pleaded, wan for i^mufjirlinf;,- — a crime which in the United States is most verely punished, the greater part of the reveime of the country being derived from the Customs. I continued my stroll down Broadway after this visit to the Majesty of Law, and lounged into Barnum's American Museum, a vulgar collection of curiosities. The state-coach formerly belonging to (^ueen Adelaide figures conspicuously : the footmen and coachm<ui in wax are dressed in state liveries. There is an extra- ordinary petrifaction exhibited in this ^Museum, which, if genuine, is certai;- y very curious. It is a group, consisting of a man on horseback encircled by a huge boa constrictor. The man is represented as u South American, and the grctup is asserted to have been discovered in a cave, where it had been h/ln>j m II- Mi 4G CANADA AND THE CRIMEA n i !, l" ! '. ( for age.s, and about which probably its present and future proprietors will lie for ages to come. On returning homewards, I called at the St. Nicholas, and requested to be shown a celebrated apartment in that hotel, called the Bridal Chamber. Bridal chambers are common enough in steamers in America, but I had never before heard of a particular room in an hotel exclusively devoted to the delights of the honeymoon. The room at the St. Nicholas is small ; its walls are covered with fluted white satin, and the sofas and chairs are of the same material. The bed, with a refinement of ostentatious indelicacy, occupies the centre of the apartment ; its curtains are of rich white satin, and it is illuminated by four crystal lustres (each for four burners), one at every corner I ! ! A rich veil of lace, worth several hundred dollars, reposing on a quilt of white satin, greets the eye when looking downwards from the glories of the curtains. The modest sum of \50 i\o\\ni'i^ j)er noctem is charged to the occupants of this luxurious apartment. I think the pair who occu- pied it, when tliey emerged, would be as great curiosities as the room itself. ' In the evening I went to the opera, where a crowded audience were assembled to hear iNIadame Sontag in " Lucia di Lammermoor." I had never heard her before, and was a little disappointed at the piano manner with which slie executed several airs. She has created a perfect furor in America, — to do whicli it is only necessary to achieve an European reputation. Mr. Bancroft, the Ameri''an historian, sat in front of :l i concern first esi breakin ing up t in his h adding, ' Sucl endeavn his paro t martyr ; .| city of 1 J CRIME AND DISHONOUTl 47 me at the opera. He is a lively old gentleman, with extraordinary hair and spectacles. Phrenologists would not, I think, pronounce him a genius at first sight : he is, I believe, a native of Boston, where he resides. ' Feb. '[5th. — To-day I strolled about Broadway; and, at about eleven o'clock, paid a visit to the " Tombs," the Newf^ate of New York. The builiiing is situated near Broadway, and has somewliat the appearance of an ICo-vptian temple ; there wci\ of course, scarcely any windows to relieve the eye. The prisoners, in j)airs, are confined in small apartments; visitors walk along a narrow platform, and look at them through the grat- ings of their dungeons, as thev would at wild beasts. I hurried away from the spectacle of degraded humanity, and amused myself by walking up and down Broadway, and looking at unconvicted citizens. *I met a gentleman whom I knew at Montreal at the Metropolitan. He pointed out to me Mr. Meagher, the Irish editor of the " Nation," who was concerned in the Smith O'Brien riots ; and who, after first escaping with his life, had at last managed, by breaking his parole, to escape from confinement. Walk- ing up to the oflficer on guard, with a pair of loaded pistols in his hands, he said, "I surrender myself,"! suppose; adding, " I'll shoot you if you attempt to take me." ' Such is the flimsy subterfuge by which Mr. JNTeagher endeavours to escape the imputation of having broken his parole ; he is treated in the States as a hero and a martyr; an address has been presented to him by the city of New York, signed by the mayor ; and he lectures (1111 11 I I ill 'i ! I \i m m r i !i 48 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA on "Australia,'' and " Grattan and the Volunteers of '82,'" to crov/ded audiences. l[e is young, and rather good- looking. The Americans sympathise heartily with every hlackguard from Ireland or elsewhere, who makes him- self conspicuous by his pretended efforts for liberty, against the cause of order and constituted authority. ' A large monument stands in one of their cemeteries in Broadway, raised to the memory of Thomas Emmet, brother of ilie celebrated Robert, who, however, in this case, though a rebel, was certainly a fine fellow. ' I was invited this evening to dine with Mr. Lane, a New York merchant, livinur in Tenth Street. The con- versation at dinner turned on the alleged claim of a missionary clergyman, known in the States as the Rev. Eleazar Williams, to be considered the Dauphin of France. It is said that he was privately conveyed to America, and the body of some other person shown to the Duchess d'Angouleme a., that of her brother. He served in the American army during the w^ar, and, though only in a subordinate jDOsition, received the thanks of Congress. The Prince de Joinville, it is further stated, when in America, paid him a visit, and asked him to sign a paper renoiuicing all claim to the throne of France, on consideration of the receipt of an annual income. This jNIr. Williams refused to do ; and stopped the prince's remonstrances by quietly saying, " If I am the Dauphin, as you represent, I am your superior." The whole affair is wrapped in mystery; but sufficient is known or conjectured to produce great excitement in the States. I ' :\rr. I for son front iei J^ A NEW YORK DINNER-PARTY 49 ' ^Ir. Williams preaches at New York ; lie has resided for some time as a missionary on the Unitod States frontier. His story has been told l)y some very re- spectable citizens of New York in one of the maL,'azines, hut I do not tlnnk very much credit can be attached to it. The improbability of the Prince de Joinville's at- tempting- to bribe a man not to assert a claim, whose existence ho must have been ignorant of, is a strong argument against the truth of the story. ' The dinner was excellent : young green peas and prairie hens were great delicacies to a man from the wilds of Canada. ]\Irs. Law is an intelligent, well- educated woman. She was very kind and courteous, and expressed her regret at my not having been with her in the morning, when she had been paying some reception visits; and I might have had an opportunity of seeing the abodes of some of the merchant princes of New York. Dr. INIetcalfe, one of the guests, had been edu- cated at West Poin+j and had served in ^Mexico with the American army ; he described the service on the frontier as harassing and monotonous, — exertion and exposure uncombined with amusement or agreeable excitement, — something of what the Caffre war is to our soldiers. ' The inauguration of General Pierce as Presidcjnt was expected, I heard here, to be very (piiet, on account of his domestic bereavements. Senators, ]Mrs. Law told me, were not the men now-a-days that they were for- merly. She described President Fillmore as a perfect gentleman in manner, and most agreeable in conversa- tion. The children (very pretty ones) joined us at des- E !H' 50 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ,}■ |]!f !i. j r\ ',f ! i I f " ( sert, find we all adjourned to the drawinr(-rooin toge- thei rdinir to the American custom. Dr. and Mn accon Metcalfe were eng'a«>-ed to some other parties, and left soon after dinner. I followed, thanking my hospitable hostess for lier kindness, and receiving an invitation to call at her house aijain on mv return from the South. 'Feb. \C)th. — Wet and disagreeal^le. Remained in- doors all da}^ Kead the papers and wrote a letter to England. The papers, though generally a little bitter against " Old England,*' have, I found, often articles written in a conciliatory spirit, and rebuking the ob- noxious swagLCer and brng<>-adocio so characteristic of a certain class in the States. ' While at New York T saw the funeral procession of one of the New York A^'olunteers, w^ho had died from the effects of the climate of ]\rexico, pass down IJroad- way. It was well attended, and I had an opportunity of seeing a few American soldiers. They looked a rough lot, marched in a loose straggling manner, and had anything but a parade appearance. The liberty they enjoy of cultivating scraggy beards at pleasure is more than sufficient to destroy uniformity of appenrance. I left New York at about 5 o'clock for Philadelphia, distant eighty-eight miles. The line traverses a flat and unin- teresting country. I crossed two ferries, one at New York, and the other over the Delaware river, from Camden to Philadelphia, and reached the latter city at about half-past ten o'clock. I was poked np as usual in a small room in the sixth storey, and went to bed tired and uncomfortable.' I mgs. 51 ClIAPTEK IV. I '■ riiiLABKLririA — gihakd collegk-state house. ]^EP,. IS/A.—Girard Collogv, the lion of Philudclpliia, - is a inag'iiiticent building', or rathtT oToup of liuild- ings. It consists of a central temple of (Ireciau archi- tecture, sliL>'htly resend)ling tlie Madeleine at Paris, and four isolated buildin<i's — two on either side of the temple, — the whole built of white marble. It is the most noble monument of individual charity in this or perhaps any other country, and was constructed solely from funds bequeathed by Stephen GirarJ, a native of France, who settled and accumulated an immense for- tune in Philadelphia. Besides two millions of dollars for the erection of this college, he left large sums to many public charities. Girard College is built solely for the instruction of male orphan children. Their number is always limited to about .300. Mr. Girard, who in his will gives minute directions for the construction of the College, enjoins — "That no ecclesiastic, missionary, or minister of any sect whatever shall ever hold, or exer- cise any station or duty whatever in the said College ; nor shall any such person ever be admitted for any purpose, B 2 09 CANADA AND THE CHIMEA ; I or as a visitor, within the premises appropriated for the purposes of tlie said College." * The reason he j^ives for this extraordinary provision is his desire to keep "the tender minds of tlie orphans" free from the excitement which clasldng doctrines and sectarian controversy are apt to produce. " .My desire is," he furtlier says, " that all the instructors, and teachers of the College shall take pains to instil into the minds of the sclxdars the purest principles of morality, so that on their entrance into active life they may, from inclination and habit, evince benevolence towards their fellow-creatures, and a love of truth, sobriety, and indus- try, adopting at the same time such religious tenets as their mature reason may enable them to prefer." 'The will was endeavoured to be set aside by Girard's relations, on account of this provision ; and they en- gaged Mr. Webster to plead their case before the Su- preme Court of the United States. They were unsuc- cessful, however, and the judges unanimously decided in favour of the will. Girard commenced life as a com- mon sailor in a French merchant vessel, and raised himself solely by his untiring energy and merit. ' After dinner I visited the State House, where the Declaration of Independence on the 4th of July, 1776, was adopted by Congress, and publicly proclaimed from the steps the same day. The rooms wear almost the same aspect as they did then, little change having been made in the furniture or interior decorations. At the end opposite the door is the figure of Washington with the Declaration in his hand. Near him is placed a DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM 68 i portion of the identical .step on ^vlliell liis foot rested when lie read tlie document to tlie nmltitude. Round the room are hung portraits of W;ishinL,'toii, when a colonel, William Penn, and Lafayette. The hell whieh first proclaimed lil)erty(?) is also preserved licre. It was first cast in England, and suhse(|U(^ntly recast in America. The room was hung with crape, in memory of Henry Clay and Daniel Webster. *The next lion, partaking, however, in its nature more of the character of the laml), is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum. It contains 144 pupils, who are admitted at the age of ten or upwards, and remain six years at the institution. They are taught to read and write the English language, and when this great object is at- tained, arithmetic, geometry, &c., follow. * The difficulty of communicating ideas and knowledge of language is, as may be supposed, very great. The first step towards it is the acquisition of the knowledge of the names of different objects, and their uses. "The instructor presents an object, or a picture of one, or makes a sign for it. He then teaches them to write the name, presenting each letter by the manual alpha- bet. When they can all write it, it is erased and re- written a number of times until it is impressed upon the memory." The next idea to be imparted is the quality or uses of particular objects, and their relations. 'Series of sentences, anecdotes, narratives, etc., are written off, and explained by signs. These are copied by the pupils and studied as evening exercises, and in school are written from memory, or recited by signs. E 3 54 CANADA AND THE CllIMEA I I ||.:I 1 ' II. \ \ 1 r MVIk'H once taught to read the mute is supposed cii[ial>I(' t»r sclt-instructioii, l»iit a lar^c iuiiuIkt do not cvi'ii reach tliis point from want of capacity. 'Tiiey sometimes display jj^reat inventive genius, and skill in dravvini; and tiie imitative arts. ' 1 was shewn several lithographs which would not have disgraced the windows of a London print shop, which were executed ])y the unaided efforts of some pupils of the institution. * Attached to the asylum is a museum fdlcd with stuffed hirds, and animals, models of various objects, specimens of grain, v.Vc. ; and is of important use in imparting definite ideas. Arithmetic is taught hy means of a nundx'r of black, and red wooden beads strung on wires fixed to frames, and moved like the markers used at billiards. ^ Some of the children, the manager told me, were not ])orn deaf, but lost the power of speech at an early age. They, however, (.entirely lose the knowledge of the sound of language, but are generally more apt pupils than the rest. * The deaf and dumb alphabet is indicated by one hand only. Instances never seem to have occurred here of pupils recovering their speech or hearing. 'The l)lind have an exquisitely fine sense of sound and of touch, but tlie poor deaf and dumb appear to possess no superiority either in their senses, or faculties. Life must, indeed, be a blank to some of them. When, however, their natural faculties enable them to master the difRcidties of reading, and writing, they are perhaps BLIND AyYLl'M 65 ill it more cnviaLk! position tliiin those who arc unahk' to sec the ^HorioiiH huu when In' sliines with ail liis splendour on the fairest scenes of nature. A deaf aii<l (luiiib person may yet ae([uire a thousand ideas from tlic (thjccts ai'ouiul him, and a stron^^s natural ri'Ii^ioii from the contemplation of the wonders of cri-ation. (jud manifests Himself to him by J I is works. 'My next visit was to another institution even more intercstinL( than the one [ had just left, — the Asylum for the lllind. l[cre, as at the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, I was treated with marked courtesy and kindness. Tlu' nianai^cr took me to several class-rooms, and T s;),w some of the girls write. The paper they write upon is |)laccd on a piece of grooved cardboard. The grooves they leel through th(! paper, and they serve them as lines. They look downwards on tlieir papir, as if, poor things ! they could see what tliey were writing, and follow the movement of their pencil with their left fore-finger. One, whom I observed, wrote well, and with toleral)le raj)idity, the words, *' l^lessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven." ' I was introduced here to a dear old Quaker lady. We soon became capital friends. She seemed over- llowing with kindness and benevolence. The poor little girls appeared to hail her approach as that of some heavenly being who had dropped down upon them to dispense love and happiness. *The men and boys are principally instructed in making mats and brushes, and sometimes l)OCome sufficiently skilful to procure their own livelihood. E 4 ■ hi 56 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA a !' i u • i \ I i I !! ' After seeing the children at dinner, and taking an affectionate farewell of my conductress, I continued my walk to the Fairmount "Water Works, situated near the river Schuylkill. They occupy an area of thirty acres. The water is raised by eight wheels, moved by water- power, and working piniips. The power necessary for this is obtained by throwing a dam of 1600 feet long- across the river. Each pump will raise about 1,260,000 gallons in twenty-four hours. The works were pro- jected, and executed by a ^Nlr. Graff. The Schuylkill is a small, and rather insignificant river. * Feb. \9fh. — This was the morning which was ap- pointed for my introduction to the great Mrs. I{ . I accordingly, about one o'clock, accompanied the lady who was kind enough to introduce me to her house. ' The whole of her magnificent mansion was arranged, and its furniture and fittino-s chosen bv herself. ^Nearl}'- all was from Paris, where she had resided for some time. 'Three sides of a ([uadrangle at the back of the house are occupied by a most beautiful conservatory, richly stored with a profusion of rare and exqidsite plants and flowers, all in perfect preservation, — a sight quite refreshing to the eye in this season of snow and frost. ' The interior of the house was fitted up in the most siunptuous manner, and in a style of oriental mag- nificence. Two rich tapestry curtains, which hung across a folding door, cost 3000 dollars each. The profusion of gigantic chandeliers and lustres, — the ex- mag- hung The he ex- A MAGNIFICENT MANSION 57 qiiisitely carved and richly inhiid tables and cabinets, — the gilded chairs, ottomans, and sofas, — the vast mirrors and rich curtains, — all created in the mind the impression of boundless wealth. One room, furnished in a style whoUv different from all the rest, and affordiuj'' a marked contrast to the rich damask, and gold, and the glories of the French clocks, and candelabras, was unique, and exquisite in its way. It was in the mediieval style. The cabinets, and mantel-piece were all of dark wood, beautifully carved, aid ornamented with highly finished figures of knights, and warriors in bronze ; and a mass of helmets, cuirasses, and other armour, admirably arranged and most delicately executed, brightened the general eflfect. Everything was in keeping. Not a glittering object was admitted, and an effect was produced both tranquillisiug, and agreeable after the comparative glare of the other apartments. *I spent the evening with the J s; Mrs. J. toM me she was god-daughter to the Duchess of Leeds, who was a l^altimore lady. Three sisters, who accompanied their father to England, were married to three of the highest Enjilish nobilitv, viz. to the Duke of Leeds, the ]Mar(|uis of Wellesley, and Lord Strafford. The two first were widows, and rich before they became peeresses.* ' Suiidai/, Feb. 20th. — I dined at the ladies' ordinary at half-past three, and sat next to three navjd men: they seemed good fellows. They were not (pute so refined, I fancied, as our own tars ; they appeared to lack * Dauglileis uf Kichard Caton, Esq., of Marylaud. I i Mt l^l;:' 1 11 i-v ( ' I i i i't ! V, fti ! 53 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA a " J(i ne sais quol,'" that easy, gentlemanly manner whicli makes an English sailors frankness so attractive. The promotion in the American navy is very slow, and men remnin for yearn in subordinate positions. This f[iet has been taken up by the press, and will probably be brouglit under the consideration of Congress. It seems a much better service than that of the American army. * General Pierce had arrived at Philadelphia, but kept very quiet, as he has done everywhere, on account of his domestic bereavements, llis picture, which is in all the shop windows, represents him as a short and ratlier plain, but a decided looking, and intelligent man. ' In my walk to-day I had reason continually to admire the great breadth, and straightness of the streets of Pliiladelphia, and the manner in wdiich the city is laid out. * Though it does not contain such rows of magnificent, and stately mansions as New York, it may still boast of some very handsome ones, and of the beauty of some of its public buildings, built with that most beautiful of materials, white marble. It has still further reason to congratulate itself on its extreme cleaidiness, and in the nund)er of public squares, planted with trees, which afford delightful shelter during the siunmer heats. 'It is celebrated for fruit and vegetables, which are grown on a neck of land, separating the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill ; from this circumstance the streets derive their horticultural names, Chestnut Street being the finest in the city. ft AN AMEEICAN DOCKYAED 59 * Philadelpliia at one time was considered tlie principal city in the States, and endeavoured to retain its supe- riority against tlie rising importance of Xew '\'t)i-k ; hut ''tlie Empire City" gained the race easily, and its triumph is now completely acknowledged. The country around the city is generally \-duw. In this respect, also, Philadelphia is very inferior both to New York and Boston. ^Fcb. 2\st. — Fine cold clear morning; after breakfast I went to seethe U.S. Navy Yard near the Delaware river. It hardly repaid the trouble of a visit ; a slack- looking marine in a light blue nniform, something of the colour of the hospital dress worn at Woolwich, stood sentry at the entrance; a few badly finished guns, and two, or three piles of shot, were almost the only objects of a warlike nature. Two empty docks for Ituilding frigates, or two-deckers, and several long low^ brick l)\uld- ings, nsed, I imagine, as workshops, with here and there an open shed, composed the navy yard. A new ship — a small frijj-ate — was bein^- finished close to one of the slips in which she had probabl}" been built ; and another vessel of about the same size, and in commission, was lying at anchor a few yards from the shore. A })oat putting off from the ship afforded me an oppoitunity of seeing how the American sailors handle their oars, and I must say they both pidled and shipped them in a sailor-like maimer. 'I left Philadelphia in a very crowdeil train at two o'clock, and reached l^altimore at about H v.'si. \\\; crossed the Susquehanna river in a steam firry, and r I u lit ' 1 ' I i i l> . i . ' iH, 'li, 60 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA when safely located in fresh cars at the other side, I became for the first time aware that the train I was in was hearing the American Ca'sar (Anglice, President elect) and all his fortunes. General Pierce and his suite occupied a car by themselves, to the dissatisfaction of the rest of the passengers, and especially of an old jxentleman who had come from Georf'ia to witness his inaua'uration after voting for him. He seemed to con- sider such exclusiveness most foolish, and quite un- precedented, and asserted that General Pierce should not confound his private and public characters together, and allow domestic aiflictions to influence his conduct as the President of the United States. I found my old friend very sociable and well informed. He was evi- dently partial to England, and said that America would never allow any foreign power to subjugate her, and destroy the last stronghold of liberty in Europe. He had seen, and known Jerome Ponaparte, whose son, by his first marriage, he told me, was living at Baltimore, and was very like the Bonaparte family in features. He had also lived on rather intimate terms with Napoleon's eldest brother, Joseph, at Jersey ; and spoke of him as an intelligent and superior man. He thought the pre- sent Emperor an insignificant personage (I), but did not approve of the severe strictures of the English press against his character and actions, after he had been chosen by such a vast majority to be the ruler of a great nation. General Pierce continued his journey, without stopping, to Washington, where his arrival was announced this morning in the papers. He seems to have been com- :ii I i CHINESE JUGGLERS 61 pletely himted down ^)y office-seekers and rom|»elle(], ill order to avoid them, to depart suddeidy and unex- pectedly from place to place. 'It Avas dusk when we reached Baltimore, so I could form but little idea of the city. The cars took us through some dirty back streets (the Baltimore "\Vapi)ing), and we skirted the edge of the basin or harbour, defended by Fort McHenry. 'After a beefsteak and a cup of coffee, I went to the theatre, utterly unconscious of a fact which I aftiTwards ascertained — viz. that Thackerav lectured elsewhere this very evening. Instead of being delighted and gra- tified, as I make no doubt I should have been, by his enlightened and elegant criticism, and his grapliic illus- trations, I was bored by the rather inferior performances of a Chinese troupe, in a densely crowded theatre. The exhibition was not wholly without interest : I had cer- tainly never seen Chinese eat chow-chow with chop- sticks, or heard them talk that mysterious language, the symbols of which adorn our tea-chests. I had also never previously beheld any living specimens of their fur sex; and I must say the ladies, though they do wear trowsers instead of petticoats, have a decided advantage over the gentlemen. The tricks perf )rmed were gene- rally but little above mediocrity : two, however, struck me — a boy throwing a head somersault without using his hands, and a man darting knives at another, and fixing them into a board,within a hair's breadth of his head and face. This last was trulv national, and, thou<rh rather alarming in appearance, w\as sufficiently excitinf^-. !i 1' It-il 1^ Is sir I [ 1^ \' i i i^ i I;! -Ill «;2 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ' Biu-Huni's Hotel, Baltimore, in which I had taken up my abode, is a large and rather seedy place, very inferior both to the Girard Ifouse, and the INIetro- politan. At about half-past five in the morning, in the mid<ll(^ of a refreshing snooze, I was alarmed l)y the cry of "P'ire!" and the rinLrini*- of divers bells: these spoiled my night's rest. < Baltimore, Feb. 22nd. 'After breakfast I started to examine the city. It was unfortunately wrapped in fog, so that a co^ip (Vo'Al of the city was impossible. The handsomest portion of the citv is in the neiLrhbourhood of Washington's monu- mcnt. The site is a favourable one, and commands an extensive view. To-day is the anniversary of Washing- ton's birth. The stars and stripes figure conspicuously from various public buildings ; balls are given by dif- ferent public bodies ; and processions march through the streets in most cities of the Union. The birthday of her greatest son, however, is not celebrated by America with any extraordinary pomp or rejoicing. 'Baltimore is on the borders of the Slave States. At the theatre there is a gallery especially reserved for coloured people, be they bond or free. The waiters at the hotel are all, or nearly all, Ijlack. Poor Sambo I he is a good fellow after all. Good natured, cheerful (in spite of oppression), with a sensitive and affectionate heart, if not brought to a state of sullen indifference by a course of cruelty. Most of the black people I have yet seen have either been pure nigger, or near approaches THE SLAVE QUESTION 63 to tliat stuto of iinpcrfoction. As tlie refloctii>u of Isis (leyTJuled t'oiiditioii flaslies ncross my mind, I feel a spe- cies of restraint in the presence of one of these poor fel- lows. I am afraid to catch his eye, and to re:id in his looks, and expression the sense of bondage and iid'e- riority ; of wron;^, contnmely, iind injustice ; and, more touching than all, to see that look of desponding, de- spairing submission, which shews that soul as well as hody is bowed down and crushed. When can i\ slaves enjoy that common right of all men — self-respect? Is lie allowed to express — even to form — an opinion of liis own ? Are not thought, will, and feeling alike shackled by the iron hand of despotism ? It is this moi'al degra- dation which, to my mind, is infiniteh' more painful and hunnliating than compulsory l)odily labour. Com- pulsory bodily labour is not slavery, or else slavery exists iu every country ; for in what country is compulsor}' bodily labour not indispensa])le to the existence of a large portion of the community ? ' The Slave question is a difficult and delicate one. Emancipation — sudden and complete emancipation — would ruin both slaves and slave-ouTiers. Whom do y(ju emancipate ? Whom do you raise to the rank of free men? Are they men who even know what freedom means ? Do we give children edge-tools to play with ? What would be the effect of suddenly raising several millions of human beings, ignorant, without the sense of moral responsibility, without a chief to guide them, surrounded by a liostilo crowd, with every disadvantage of prejudice and posi- tion added to those of want of capacity or capital, — ^1 i f V V. 64 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA what would he tlie effect of suddenly mising this mass as it were from the dead, in opposition to the encrny, the ability, the hatred of white men ? It mjiy he said — Let him, when free, emi<^rate, — let him leave the land of his past disL,q'ace and ])ondage, — let him hasten to those countries where his wrongs have so long afforded a theme over which the sympathising tears of thousands have been shed. Will not his heart glow with the un- experienced sensations of freedom ? Will he not be proud of a bond — a bond of union and brotherhood — with that race which was formerly to him only an object of dread or aversion ? * Bwt what is the practical view ? Where is the negro to get funds to enable him to leave the scene of his cap- tivity ? What is he to do in these days without know- ledge, or experience ? Some of the negroes — the mulat- tos and quadroons, — those with a dash of white blood in their veins, — might succeed, after a heroic struggle with the force of circumstances : but what is to become of the great mass — the mass for whom this outcry is raised ? ' How are they to be benefited ? The evident prepara- tion for freedom is education. Let freedom be the re- ward of certain attainments. Let us liberate that class who are most deserving of freedom, and most likely to use it well — the mulattos, quadroons, &c. This will be a great step in the right direction. We prepare a class in the State which will sympathise with the re- maining victims when they are liberated, and we allow an interval to elapse to accustom men to the spectacle ■? THE SLA.VE QUESTION 65 of a community of free l^laeks, whose intelli^^Tiice will secure them some degree of respect and consideration. It may be urged that this spectacle of freedom would produce insurrection — would lead the negro race to rise as a man against their oppressors, and forcibly throw aside their bonds. But do men without a chief or a head, separated into distinct communities, having but little intercourse with each other, — do they resort to fore(3, violence, or bloodshed, when a fair and reasonable expectation is before them of the peaceful attainment of their object ? The black man — the pure negro — is submissive by nature, by education, by habit. We have removed the great element (jf revolt and mischief, by removing the most intelligent and spirited. Who are those who are left behind. ? They are numerically im- posing, no doubt; but so are the Chinese — so are the hosts that move at the nod of the despots of India ; — hut are they not, even more than these, a body without intelligence or unity of purpose, or a knowledge of their own advantages or disadvantages ? ' Eeasonable reforms and concessions are the essence of good government of all kind, — they are the antidotes against the poisons of revolution and anarchy. * Feb. 23rd. — Wet, gloomy, and disagreeable. Left Baltimore at 9 a.m., and reached Washington at 1 1 A.M. I travelled to Washington with the same chatty old gentleman who had expressed his indignation at the President's exclusiveness a few days before ; he told me that he was bom near Baltimore, and that all his early associations were connected with that city and its F M^ 68 CANADA AND THE CRDrKA III \ -i' ! ,,! - 1 M ) il J 1 '{ I, ■! ,: .'III. nc'ijjfhbourliood; lie ])oiii|-c(I out to ino tho lioiHf lie used to live in, and the stream in wliicli lie fislied wlicii a younj^-ster. li'dtimore at tliat time was not one-tliinl of itH present size; but a pretty plaee, surroundei] liy fields and ^^irdens. My friend likewise informed inc tliat the eountry in the vieinity, botli of Washint^ton and Baltimore, was very poor, the soil being light ami nearly worthless without manure. ' It was raining hard when we reached Washington. I went to (ladsby's hotel, a great house sonu^ years ago, but (piite commonplace now. J secured a good bed- room, inciuired the English Minister's direction, which I was told was at the corner of K and 2IJrd Streets, and drove in a hack-carriage to the Capitol. ' The " Capitol " at Washington is a magnificent white freestone edifice, built in an elevated and conspicuous position ; it greets the eye from every point of approach to the city, and looks down on the straggling town beloAV, with the dignified complacency of a lion regard- ing the sports of a party of puppies. The eastern point is the most magnificent, and is adorned by ;i splendid portico of twenty-two lofty Corinthian columns: two pedestals are left for statues or groups of sculpture, one on each side of the great stone staircase leading to the east portico. One of them is occupied by a well- executed group by an Italian artist, representing a half-naked figure in a crouching attitude, looking half-imploringly and half-admiringly at an armed warrior, who is apparently invoking the assistance of Heaven for some enterprise. The Capitol occupies an fli:iii C^rarOL — WiiSlILNHTON g: acre and ii h'^lt of ^touhh'I, and a largo hiiildiiii,' is Ix-iiiij constructed oii each winy, whacli »'ill aild matcriaily t(» tlie effect. 'Tlie < apitol at WaKlunui-on is iindouldedly the liands(>i(i-4 ])id)lic biuldiiij^ in America: it is woi-tliy of the nati«>ii, and of tlie nianwlii>sc city it adonis. It is so admirably situated, and of sucli vast size, as to impress any one, even the most travelled monkey, who had never seen it Itefore. Two rather seedy, but very large starred-and-striped banners were Hoating on the breeze from its roof, and destroying the <>:eneral effect of the edifice they were intended to adorn. 'The east front is nuicb superior to the west. The building is surrounded by an inclosure, and approached on the west liy a broad avenue, lined witb trees; two fountains adorn the carefully kept grass-plot in front of it: the whole building is surmounted by a dome, which I did not particularly admire. The interior is devoted to the Senate, and House of Ivepresentative ('hand)ers, and to public oftices. In the centre, and lighted by the dome, is a large circular hall, adorned with paint- ings and alto relievos: the pictures, executcnl by Trunibull, represent various scenes ami triumphs in American history, such as "The Presentation of the Declaration of Independence," "Tlie Ivesignation of Cjrnwallis." They appeared to me to be well executed; the fio-ures were as larsije as life. The intermediate spaces and niches over the entrance-doors of the hall are ornamented by alto relievos, representing the rescue of Smith by the interposition of Pocahontaij, Penu r 2 ■.'i: M; 6S CANADA AND THE CRIMKA 111 1 J I i i ! , trontini,' witli tlic Tiidians, S:c. The liall is of strikinuf di- mensions, and f,'rand and iinposint^ in its ^-cniTal effect; visitors, and in fact everyone, Jire admitted into tlio p^allcric^s to lieiir the debates in ])otli llonses. The galleries in th(! Senate J[onse are very small, and will accommodate comparatively few persons; an especial gallery is reserved for lad'es in the House of Represen- tatives, though I should not imagine that they often availed themselves of it. *I visited both Chambers, and heard a portion of two debates. In the Lower House they were diseussintj a bill for reciprocity of trade with Canada; and the mem])er {o\w of the Whig party) whom I heard speak, advocated the policy of receiving English goods, and especially iron, free of duty ; on account of the heavy demand made by the custom house in the State, a larger siun was paid, a few years ago, for conveying goods from New York and landing them at New Orleans, than for sending them to Peru. The House of Repre- sentatives contains several hundred members ; they sit on benches arranged in semicircles, and approached from avenues radiating from the Speaker's chair as from a common centre. The Democrats occupy the quadrant on the Speaker's right ; the Whigs, who constitute the minority, that on his left ; a few Democrats, who cannot find seats on their own side, are obliged to occupy those vacant on the other. The hall or chamber is a noble apartment — ninety -six feet long, and sixty high. It is surmounted by a dome, supported by twenty-four columns of dark marble from the neighbourhood of the ^ C( THE SKXATE AND lIOUtJE OF llErilE.'JllNTATIVES 69 ito the . The nd will 'speciiil piesen- y often I of two issing a lul the I speak, (Is, and D heavy ^tate, a iiveying )rleans, Repre- they sit iroached ■ as from iiadrant tute the ) cannot ly those a noble 1. It is nty-four id of the Potonuic, and of the same colour as the {'ohinuis in llic Temple church at London, with ('oriiitlii;in ciipitals of Italian iiiarhle. Tlu! Speaker sits just uudtTthc Luh't's' jrallerv. He sits on a raised and eonnnaiidiu'' scat, hut is not rendered so iiuposin^- a,s our Sju-aker hy tlie robes of authority. In front and below him areliiu-sof reporters. The jj^reat size of the hall, and its lofty ceilinj^, comhiued with a perpetual busy hum of conversation, render it dil^eult to hear the s])eeehes distinctly. I was every way better pleased with the Senate. There, dij^nity, order, and decoruiu seem the ])resi(liuL( ^enii ; the members of the Senate are also older m(>n, noiu; hein"*' eli'dble for election till after the an'e of thirtv-tive: and as their powers are the same, or even "greater, than those (»f the other House, and as they are less nmnerous, they are generally men of greater weight and ability. The members of both Houses are regularly paid during the time Con^rress is sittincf, and their deliberations generallv extend from 11 a.m. till 4 p.m. dailv. On the electicm of anew President, both Houses adjourn till Decendjer, and then commences what is called tlu; long session. They have thus a much easier time of it than some of our hard-worked and underpaid public men and politicians. Another peculiarity of the American system is, that men, on accepting office, are by the laws of the constitution obliged to relinquish their seats in Congress. This I think a defect, and a great one ; for it is obvious that on the election of a new President of different politics to the one preceding, all the officials, who of course are supposed to be selected for ability, F 3 70 CANADA AND THE CI?IMEA 1 ' H ; i I 1 I serving imdcr his ])redecessor, are obliged to resign, and have to strn<wle tiiron«xh another eleetionto get restored to their seats "n Congress. If they fail, their services are lost to the country ; and thns a nnniber of able and willin<i- men are wasting their sweetness and their strength in the desert air, or on the promotion of their private interest, when they might have been beneficially gniding and dir( eting the vessel of the State. ' Thedel)ate in the Senate was on a bill passed by the other llonse for transferring the management of the pnblic armonries from the Ordnanc Corps to eivilians appointed by Government. I heard (leneral Cass (so celebrated for his animns against England) speak. He was bnsily engaged in consulting authorities before rising, and made statements and <|uotations from them in his addiess. The subject was not of .'i nature to call forth any particidar display of eloquence; and from the manner in which he spoke, I should not think that (xeneral Cass was ever an eloquent man. Jle is stout, ratlu'r tall, red faced, and corpulent. He is a little fussy in manner, and I should think irritable. His appear- ance would not impress a stranger with the idea of a man of ability. 'The majority of the speakers were against the measure before the House, and sr^veral amendments for investiga- tion and reports we^'e liiade. The Ordnance Corps was spoken of in terms of praise, and the efficiency of the armouries strongly dwelt on. The votes of the Senate were taken while I was ])resent. The House divided on several amendments, and when the aves and noes seemed GENERAL ArrEARANCE OF WASHINGTON 71 nearly e(|iuil, another division was called fur, and eacli party showed its nund)ers distinctly by rising alternately from their seats. The Vice-President for the time being is Speaker of the f-Vnate. ' When I again emerged into the open air, after wit- nessing these interesting proceedings, I walked np an avenue, opposite the east front of the Capitol, and adinh'ed its noble proportions from a distance. Opposite the front is a large white marble statue of Washinulon, in a sitting posture and, with little superfluous drapery. The figure is noble and commanding, but nut pleasing. ' After discussing a dozen oysters, 1 commenced a walk down Pennsylvania Avenue, the great promenade, for the hiiuse of our ^Minister Plenipotentiary. Tiie road led past the " White House," the official residence of the President, and about a mile from the CapitoU ' It is a handsome structure, and has a fine portico, supported by columns of the Ionic order : two large buildings, the offices and lodgings of officials, are situ- ated near its \\ings. 'AH the public buildings in Washington are hand- some, some of them niagnirtcent; they present a marked contrast to the general appearance uf the city. 'Any one viewing Washington from an elevation, would say, in the words of Scripture, these people "began to build, but are not able to finish." The whole citv is laid out n\ a gigantic scale ; broad avenues, inter- sected by otaers at right angles, extend for nules ; but the houses an' few, small, and far between, like tlu; jdums in a school pudding. Pennsylvania Avenue contains F 4 '/ \ i'l S m ¥ 72 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA iiili ^1 : i I ! « !' i I nearly uUtlie private l)uil(liiii;-s of any pretension. Tlie city is not advantag'eously situated for trade; and, in tlie present state of America, it is not to be wondered at if Yankees decline to settle down in a "location" where they cannot accnmidate dollars with rapidity. ' The city is of course crowded to overflowing at the time of a President's inan;j;-uration ; and at the present, more than an}^ other, the hotels have been thronged by swarms of office-hunters, Avho worry and run the poor President-elect to earth most mercilessly. General Pierce I believe, turns a deaf ear to their cries, and the practice is one which tends to lower the American nation in the eyes of the world. I heard it severely commented on in the Senate, and denounced in the above terms. Our ^Minister at AVashinaton lives in a rather seedy house, about a mile from the President's jdjode ; his door was opened by a dirty man-servant, into whose paw I thrust a card, and retired rather chagrined at the poor tigure cut by the representative of En Hand. '^ Feb. '1-iih. — Rose about half-past five, and was ready before six to start for the steamer. The hack-carriage that had been ordered for me did not arrive; and I was indebted to the charity of a paddy for a seat on the box of another. The nigger driver, my Hibernian told me, had not come out on account of the coldness of the morning ; I suppose tlie frosty air does not agree with Sambo's complexion. The weather was certainly very cold, the wind cutting and searching, particularly disagree- ■i.ble to an nnbreakfasted traveller, in an exposed position. •.-ii RAILWAY TRAVELLING 73 *Tlie Banks of the Potomac are pretty, but rather inonotouous. " Washiiit^to!i House," at Alount Veriiou, is situated on the right bank of tlie river, aljout live miles from the city ; it is a good-sized, plaiu-h)okiii;^' l)uil(ling, probably considered a mansion when Washing- ton occupied it. The tomb of the " father of his country" is situated near the house; it is a plain red brick monument, scarcely visible from the water ; the house and property belong to the United States, having been purchased by Congress. A high wind, which blew uninternuttently all the morning, liad driven so nuich water out of the creek, that our boat stuck in the mud within a few yards of our landing-place. The tide was not expected to rise, so the passengers and mails were landed in boats, the luggage left behind, and the train, after two hours' delay, proceeded onwards to Kichmmul. The railway trams are merely flat pieces (.)f iron nailed down to planks resting on sleepers, and if traverst'd at great speed, would probably curl up; liftei^n miles an hour is considered the correct pace. Very slow in these days, and productive of expressions of impatience from travellers, pampered by superior methods of annihi- lating distance. We passed through an luidulating and pretty country ; here and there might be seen the rude log shanty of a nigger, and either Sambo or his wife at the door looking at the cars. We stopped nowhere for refreshment. The company endeavoured to forget hunger in the enjoyment of apples, which they munched with a vigour worthy of better provender. Some en- terprising youths, at the risk of being left behind, con- i:ii, 74 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA lii! I i ! ! I trived to get a drink, but its quality was comforting neither to mind nor body. ' We readied Kichmond about G r.M. Drove to tlie Exchange Hotel, a very large one; found it full. ]\Ian at the bar wanted to put me into a room v.ith two others; had visions of spitting, snoring, and infraction of the eighth conunandment, and so refused. Threw myself on his generosity to find me a room to myself in ihe course of the evening, and went to the supper room (having had no dinner during the day), and ex- ercised my jaws on some inferior beef-steak. Walked through Kichmond in the dusk ; appeared a well laid out, pretty place; remarked an extraordinary numljer of chemists' and pastry-cooks' shops — handsome ones, and brilliantly ilhuninated. Listened to the distant murmur of the falls of the James River (on whicli Kichmond is situated), and saw their spray dimly ilhnnined by the pale light of the rising moon. Found the man at the hotel had been w^orthy of my confidence, and had given me a capital room. On the door, a caution was pasted up, " Bolt the door to prevent night robberies ; " com- plied witli the polite re(piest, and shortly afterwards accepted the invitation of " Somnus " to " come to his arms." Knocked up at half-past five, and turned out most imwillingly ; bolted an indigesti])le breakfast, paid my bill, and started for the ]Meechum River railroad. This brings me to — ' Feb. '2'jth. — Rapid travelling, early rising, and insuf- ficient dinners, had rather jaded me. When I started this morninLj I had the sensation of one who had been .i for nigli narticul pretty f itself; 1 the fatif ' I sa) tame an After tw sun cha to look { ''MyX« 'The! very few it is one and SOUK much frt 'The( ohviousb jumbles but pass tolerable them che generally rustic br were cer readincf I surroundi as a deej fairer reli fancy co: ' I Ml ROMANCE AND REALITY < J for nights running to balls or parties ; in fact I was not narticnlarly disposed to fall into raptures either witli a pretty face or a pretty prospect, liad either presented itself; luckily, however, I was not called upon to undergo the fatigue of admiratiou. 'I saw with my half-opened eyes that the scenery was tame and monotonous, and so closed them altogether. After two or three hours' travel, the bright rays of the sun chased away my drowsiness, and I aroused myself to look at the passeugers antl the country, and to read "My Novel;" I was most pleased with the latter. 'The.Meechum Ferry railway carries, I shoidd imagine, very few passengers in the winter time; in the summer it is one of the most convenient routes from the North, and some portion of the South, to the Virginia Springs — much frequented during tlie month t)f August. 'The defects of the American system of travellinii* arc obviously seen in inferior railroads. A system which jumbles up all classes must be always objectionable; hut passengers between largo cities or towns are more tolerable than those in the country, as though many of them chew and spit in a most revolting manner, they generally pay more attention to soapand water than their rustic brethren; a few of my fellow-passengers to-da}', were certainly not perfumed with millefleur. Fancy reading Bulwer's beautiful and imaginative descriptions surrounded by such Goths and Vandals! They served as a deep shadow to bring out in still l^righter and fairer relief the forms ami figures of those whom my fancy conjured up from Bulwer's magic page. The I \' 7G CANADA ANP THE CRIMEA I ' 11 (liirk-cycd, liigli-soukMl, glorious Violante, and tlic sweet, tender Helen, wliat more tlian angels did they appear, wlien I glanced from tlie pag(; which ])roiight thcni brightly and vividly before my mind's eye, to the ruffian forms around me I ' About one o'clock we reached a small tow^n called Charlotte's ville, w^here we stopped for a few minutes, and where I oiujht to have got out to dinner. I speculated, however, on feeding at IMeechum's Ferry before continuing my journey to Staunton by the stage. Little did I know what was in st(jre for me I When we readied Meechum's Kiver, we found a stage ready to take us on. An American stage is a large, heavy, lum- bering vehicle, constructed to hold nin6 inside and two out : the insides are packed together something in the fashion of clothes in a carpet-bag; that is to say, they are well crammed in, and pressed down. I managed to insert my body into a vacant seat, with my back to the horses ; and having disposed of my legs in as satis- factory a manner as circumstances would admit of (and seriously I advise no man of more than five feet ten inches to venture into an American stage). I looked at my fellow-passengers ; two pale, sickly-looking women and a man, the husband probably of one of them, occupied the back seat ; in front of them, /. e. in the centre of the stage, and with their backs resting against a leathern strap, sat three men, respectable, ordinary, w^ell-washed looking personages ; and on my side were two other men, probably small farmers, or y)ig-drivers by profession. 'I tried to sret a mouthful to eat or drink, as I . > had br( ([iiite 11 and bod of heiiv^ fu'si, ai Anieric; winter. were bo which ai wc shou slow rat( nienced anecdote his conj'c the state pears th; of this 1 ?al)le by soon aff( resemble frozen, a hollows A from sid( denlythe balanced be in the violent t congratu' proceed i in little : ■ s t f ' AN AMERICAN STAGE-COACII » I liad breakfasted at six, and it was now two, but was ([uite unsuccessful. Away we started, after tlie roof and boot of our "vehicle" had ])c'en tilled with a mass of heavy lugi>"age ; and then bcji^^an my miseries and my fii'st, and I trust last, experience of the felicities of American sta^^e-travellinn' over ccnmtry roads in the winter. We left Meechum's Iviver at about 2 r.^r., and were bound for ►Staunton, twenty-ei^ht iniles distant, which any reasonable human being would have sup|)osed we should have readied in four or five hours, even at a slowM'ate of travel. One of my friends opposite com- menced an animated conversation, t(^ld several pleasing anecdotes of upsets, and breakdowns, and then gave us his conjecture, founded on hearsay and experience, as to the state of the road wo were about to traverse. It ap- pears that the road is tolerable in summer (th>>ugh even of this I am sceptical), but is rendered nearly impas- sal)le by the winter rains. A practical illustration was soon afforded us of its condition. The road somewhat resembled a ph)ughed field ; its deep ruts were partially frozen, and the wheels slipped off their crests into the hollows with mighty jolts: the stage vibrated and swung from side to side on its heavy leathern springs. Sud- denly there was atrcmeiidous jolt — thecoach seemed just balanced on two wheels, and the next moment likely to be in the mud. A short plunge, a struggle, a series of violent throes and convulsions, and we are saved, and congratulate ourselves on having a good driver ; we proceed at a snail's pace; we have got over three miles in little more than an hour, and my companions are ■T 78 CANADA AXn THE CIUMEA I! a \ is - I ;-| iji. ■I conf|^ratul;itinL( oik; another on the ra])idity with wliir-li we ai'c travclliiiL,': tlie joltiiii^-, ])iiiii]>iiii;, and sqiieeziii.; continue. One old sta;jft'r tries to fall nslee]), and his head about like a CI ad wans aDour liKe a i iiinese nmire. i <cet into con- fii I <ret int( versation with the man opposite me : he proves to l)c an engineer on a railway — a most desirable one- — intendcil to coimect the ])oint we liave left with that to which we are travellinjj;. This railway passes under the Viri>ininu hills, 'i'he eULiineer told me that they were construetiiiL' a tunnel which would 1)0 al)out a mile and a lialf lont,% throu^rh a hill of what he calh'd iron stone — harder than the hanh'st c^rauite. Their proi^ress was necessarily slow on account of tlf difficulty of working the rock. To sink shafts for the nect'ssary supply of air was next to impos- sible; thus, conse(|uently, they were much inconvenienced by the want of this real " staff of life,'" and were oblij^-ed to "raise the wind," or keep things goini:;- by means of an air-pump. ' We passed several little villages of clean, comforta1>]c- looking Irish huts and shanties built on the hill-side. Cows an<l piu's were occasionally visible, but I do not suppose the latter animal's claim to the best part of the lodging would be allowed, as he does not here pay the best part of the *'7^'//f." The Irish labourers get a dollar a day, and are very provident and saving ; most of them, as my informant told me, are toleral)ly well educated, and can nearly all read and write. Tliev mostly live (Ui beef: in the sunnner they kill an ox. wait till he is f/ami/, and then cut him up and eat him. The engineer remarked particularly on that peculiar ohtaine and ve must b place w get a c( the den able su flounde road, ai means lialtin<>-- system < our leaf cunistai to])pl('d 'ilad chests, ] undoubi were in j praise wc returnee with ha Tlie bo( hroken i for it ; ;i we resi] with eve deep nn A imEAK DOWN imd his to t'un- ) 1)(' an itendcil licli we iri>iui;ui nu'tiii^ lit" lontj:, \vr than •ily sl(AV To sink ) impos- niienced ol)liu'('il leans of brta1>le- lill-side. do not •t of the pay the s iret a most of ly well They an ex. eat him. peculiar m hi eliararteristic of poor Irisli <,nr]s, even wlien exposed to the jn'reatest tenifttations — tlieir eiiastity : tiiry liave ohtaiiied a high cliaractcr in tlie States for iliis virtue, and very few (^f tlie i,nrls in the larL^'e hotels, where tiiey must be a great d(>al exposed, liave been bodueed. At a place wliere we stopped to change hoi'ses, I managed to get a eou[)le of l>iscuits and a piece of cheese to appease the demon ; and at about lialf-jjast seven had a miser- able supper at a dirty i)ui. It was dark, and our position, floiuuleriuii' along, wedged together, over an execrable road, and expecting every moment to l)e u[»set, by no means an envialile one. About a nule from our last halting-place, we found ourselves upon a sujier-exci llent system of ruts, and the shackle which supported orie of our h'ather springs, yielding t(» weight and force <d" cir- cumstances, broke witl' a crash, and the coach nearly to])pled over. 'l[a(l not our engineer, with three tremendous chests, probably contaiidng furniture, left us, we should undoubtedly have been deposited in the mud: as it was, we were in a nice fix. The driver, however, took things with praiseworthy coolness, left the stage for assistance, and returned with a negro blacksmith, two or three men with handspikes, a chain, and s(jme lueifer matches. The body of the coach was slioved up by levers, the broken iron shackle removed, and the chain substituted for it ; and after about three-quarters of an hour's delay, we resimied our journey. Finally, after struggling with every description of bad road, ruts, holes, stones, deep nuul and clay, pools, and frozen clods, we found -I 80 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA N ll I'. I onr.solves at Stiiuiiton, tolemMy cxliaustcnl, at half-past 1 1 r.M., after a journey of nine and a lialf lion is. I walked uhoiit five miles, partly up liill and partly over .some road which exceeded all the rest in badness. ' 'J'lie scenery among the hills through which we passed was romantic and prcstty, and thougii not so grand, re- minded me somewhat of the Western lEighlauds of Scotland. 'Tlic eastern portion of America along the Atlantic coast, and in the vicinity of the large cities, is so flat iuid monr)tonous, that a hill of any description is greeted by the traveller as a pleasing and agreeable variety ; the slopes afford good pasturage for sheep, and are many of them covered with wood, principally pine. I was very glad to roll my bed-clothes round me, and court the drowsy god. i STAUN'T DISAC AND THE H( rate at v "New 1 to our " ever, wh I heliev( in all foi of Engla given he that thej terestincr I great al harrister; was all tl ^Vasliino- I had he; C'xtremel^ the sumn 1 ^ 81 CHAPTER V. STAUNTON. — LEXINOTOX. — AX UNPLEASANT RIPE AXD A DISAGREEAHLE ADVEXTUUE. — VISIT TO lIARrEIl's FERRY, AND RETURN TO WASHIXGTON. ' rpHE United States is a country great in newspapers. -L How the multitude published can pay at the low rate at which they arc sold is a matter of wonder. Tlie "New York Herald, '" occupies a place somewhat similar to our "giant of tiic press.*' It has more rivals, how- ever, who assert claims to e<iualify than our "Times." I hclieve the " Times " in America, and I fancy generally in all foreign countries, is looked on as the ^' vo,r popuJ i"'" of England. The reports of speeches and trials are not given here with anything lik<' the fulness and accuracy that they are in England. I was present at a very in- teresting trial where the prisoner was defended with great ability and eloquence by one of the leading barristers at New York ; but a bare statement (jf fact was all that appeared in the public papers; and when at WashiuLrton I referred to them to read over the debate I had heard on the previous evening, I found the report extremely meagre and defective, something similar to the summary of parliamentary intelligence in our papers. G IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) %< ^ 1a if. ifj V C^x 1.0 I.I 1.25 12.5 12.0 11= U IIIIII.6 ^^ <^ /a ^/. /A "^y^w '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation % 4 \ ■^^ \\ '% v <^ % ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBS1 9 N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ? l" 4 ' *^\% '^ % . W^ \'^f 82 CANADA AND TTIK CRniEA ; ■■ I The American journals are principally filled with foreii^n intelligence, and comments thereon, lu'cciviiii; Tiiails from Europe two or three times every week, with a vast mass of complex politics, and of tlie ahlest criticisms on men, measures and events, liavin^' merely to c\iU niid .select the flowers from this rich and fertile field, tliov are at no loss to fill their columns with both interesting and attractive matter. Extracts from wliat they always call the " London Times," with its views on the unent (|uestions and events of the day, whether as affecting themselves or the continent of Europe, furnish a kind of theme for dissertations and remarks of their own. Besides this, from their geographical p(jsition, tiny are of course abundantly and constantly supjtlied with news of all that is going on, or looming in the future of the Western hemisphere. In fact, news from Mew Orleans, or other distant points of the t'nion, amounts very nearly to the same thing as foreign intelligence. The leading journal, which I mentioned above, seems to take conciliating views of English |)(jlicy, and of the in- tercourse between P]ngland ami America. In the mind of a sensible or enlightened man, a rupture between tlic two countries would be not only destructive and ruinous to each as a nation, but would inflict a severe blow oii the principles of liberty, constitutional right, and good government. The lower sort of Yankees are a swaLrixering, conceited set of fellows, and John r.ull has a pretty gouJ notion of his own prowess; but hapjiily it is not permitted to these belligerent gentlemen to settle their disputed points in their own savage or school-boy fashion. ■\ VIRGINIAN WAGGONS 83 * Staunton is a pretty villnnfe, surrounded by liills; and when the raih'oad connecting- it with Kichniond i-; completed, will lie a place (if importance, as it lies near one extremitv of the n^reat a-jfricultural vallev of Vjp^inia. At present it is a century behind the North- ern States. A traveller in a few hours perceives the \a<t difference in the proi^ress of civilisation between the two sections of tlic I'luon. After travel I inij throuirh the North witli speed, punctuality, and comparative bixuiT, he finds liimself, when ordy a few miles from tiic licaten tracks of human intercourse, contending with bad roads, bad inns, dilatoriness, and otiiuii sine (li;/it't(ll('. 'Tiie old-fashioned plan of travellini;' on horsel)ack is still adhered to, and is common in Virufinia. Mrtdnian wa'4i,^ons, havino- the to]) covered with wdiite sail-cloth, l)iiii(; drawn bv six horses, mav be seen creepinir alon*: the roads. A nii^ger rides one of the wheelers, and with oulyny/^' rein attached to a leader, contrives to guide the whole team. ()rii,dnal, clumsy, and picturesque they look, slowly coming into view at the turn of a country road, with the sun shinini>' brii-htlv on their snowv cover- iug; and they speak strongly, and w^ith incontroverti])le evidence of tiie comparatively slow^ progress of the people who use them. Virginia is, how^'ver, awakening from lier sleep. Ivailways are being constructed across her ill all dircictions ; the spirit of ente^rprise is shedding its uwakenintr iiiHuence over the dormant energies of her [)opnlation, and she will soon be what her size, climate, and natural advantages seem to foretel, oue of G 2 \^M i^' • Ml ,1 ! i 1- T' f 84 CANADA AND TTIE CRIMEA I [■' ,- i t 1 i i the greatest and most flourishing States of the Union. The white population of Virginia consi(iera})ly exceeds her black ; and her soil being principally cultivated for grain, or producing pasture for sheep and cattle, there are but few regular plantations, where slaves drudge, and toil like farm-horses. I saw an advertisement in the inn at Staunton offering a reward for a runaway negro boy; but I should think that in this State, thougli there are more facilities to escape, the inducements to do so are less than those farther South. An intelligent mulatto driver, who pleased and interested me, said be had requested his mistress to allow him to go to Siberia. Hearing I was an Englishman, he asked if they were not against slavery in England, and if Canada were not a free State? I told him that Canada was a British colony. and all British colonies were free. He said he should much like to go there. I asked him if he were married ; he answered, " Yes." Have you got any children ? *' No, there is only me and my wife." His mistress, a widow lady, made a profit out of him by letting him out to drive and do jobs. The man was not only intel- ligent, but courteous and gentle in manner. He had evidently a great deal of white blood (the element of freedom) in his veins. He was a fine-looking fellow, upwards of six feet high. I really felt interested in him, and f(;ll into a painful reverie on the evils of a system which degrades what God has made noble. The day will come when the mulattos, illegitimate offspring though they be, will prove themselves their fathers' sons. In my opinion, the event must take 1^ A MULATTO COACHMAN 85 place in the natural order of things. Here was a man, sensible of his degraded position, keenly desirous of freedom, hearing with delight of those lands where slavery is unknown, intelligent enough to perceive the injustice of the system which oppressed him, and to feel that, if he rebelled, he would not sin, but assert a right, which the God who made all has given to all, — here was a man, a type of a numerous and rapidly-in- creasing class it the South, in whose mind was laid a train, which it required only circumstances and oppor- tunity to fire, — a man who would fight, as the Greeks of old fought, under the watchwords of liberty, and right. 'The coach which was to convey me to Lexington at length got uuder weigh ; I mourned on the box to enjoy the sunshine, and to see the country. Our first sixteen miles was over a terrible road, and we took about four and a half hours to traverse it. The rest of our journey was over planks, which appeared by contrast like a sudden transportation to Elysium, after the cares, troubles, and contentions of life. I walked over four miles of the worst part of the road. My driver was a good, honest fellow ; had driven the stage along that road for twenty-eight years, and had just earned enough to bring up, and educate his children. He made some sensible and intelligent remarks on the advantages of education, and seemed fully to comprehend the value of the gift bestowed by his exertions on his family. In America, education, if combined with energy, application, and good sense, is wealth to its possessor. Hundreds of 1 i i I i 1 i ' 1 1 ^1 80 CANADA AND THE CKIMnA (' l- roads are open to every man for free and g'enerous coin- petitioii — tlie true source of much of the greatness and pros])erity of a nation. * Ah my time was very limited, and travelling in tlic part of the country I had arrived at l)oth slow, and un- certain, I hired a waggon to drive me to the Natural Bridge, — distant, by the best road, about seventeen miles from Lexington. The morning was warm, bright, and cheerful. A hazy appearance in the distance, however, seemed to indicate rain. ^ly carriage was announced. I walked out, and ])eheld a waggon painted with three coats of natural brown from the nuiddy rcxids, with the sorriest Rozinante I had ever seen. A stalwart ninicer, with husfe black moustaches and beard, — who looked hi"- enough and stronix enou^di to carry horse, wan'tron, and all, — supported the trembling steed by the head, and replied to my inquiries as to when the animal had last dined with an indignant assurance that he was well fed, and could go well. I submitted to my fate, though I was not without feelings of compunction at inflicting seventeen miles on a bony anatomy, refpdring not a day's, but a week's rest. *I drove steadily, and quietly at first, and endeavoured to excite my steed to action l)y words of encourage- ment ; but tliis was jirobably so new to him, that he did not know what to make of it, and little or no alter- ation in his sober and solemn gait took place. The last resource was, I regret to say, applied ; and it generally elicited a melancholy shake of the ears, and the ghost of a canter. The country through which I passed I': THE NATI'RAL BRIDGE 6 7 wns t)iP snmo in character (tliouL^h perhaps ratlicr of a j^raiuler description) as that througli wliich 1 had journeyed on the [)revious (hiy. A series of liills \vit}) curved outlines greeted the eye on all sides. There was an ahsencf.' of that l)oldness "which characterises the Avihl iiiountain scenery of Scotland, where the dark rocky masses stand out against the? ])lue sky in sharp, clear lines. They hear the same analogy to the wild hills of Caledonia that the soft, rounded outline of a woman's form does to the hold, angular tigure of a man. ' I encountered difficulties of every kind on the road, was nearly upset two or three times, and o])liged to refresh my I)ob})in with a drink of meal and water to insure his getting through his lahoiu's at all. 'The Natural l^ridge is situated in a deep vnlle}-, among some fine hills. It spans an insignificant little hruuk about fifty feet wide. The bridge is a vast lime- stone arch 215 feet high, 80 feet broad, and H5 feet long. Tlie arch has the appearance of having been gradually excavated by the continual action of water; and this supposition is in some degree confirmed by the great height of the banks of the streandet, which are composed of the same rock, and rise nearly perpendicu- larly from the water in the vicinity of the bridge. Can it be possible that the little ])rook, which now ripples peacefully at your feet, could once have been a mighty river, and have burst with irresistible violence the oppos- ing barrier ? The rock in other places has crumbled and fallen, and may have been preserved from the same fate here merely by superior hardness. There is some- I I ;!: il'l V : I jlf'12 86 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA >ii:|i ii 1.1,1 1 ' fi : >} i:e /'till |; 5 '; (i 'f , thing wild, grand, and impressive in that gigantic, lonely arch standing unchanged in solitary grandeur after the lapse of ages — a memorial left by nature of some bygone scene in the history of her revulsions. ' My predictions regarding rain were mournfully ful- filled. It first drizzled, and then poured. The rain continued all night unintermittently ; and I listened to its heavy pattering on the roof of the crazy old inn witli gloomy forebodings of the difficulties and struggles of the morrow. ' I superintended the washing of my poor Rozinante's legs ; and directed he should have a good bed prepared for him, and as much oats as he could eat. 'The stable in which my unfortunate steed was doomed to pass the night was a construction which would have been called rude even among the ancient Britons. Free admission both for air and rain was afforded by nume- rous yawning gaps and cavities. The wind, in whatso- ever direction it might be blowing, had the privilege of whistling through it ; and the horses (hardy beasts ! ) stood there without a scrap of clothing, and lay down on the hard boards at night to repose. I wish I could have transported an English groom to this savage spot. His astonishment might have helped me through a dreary afternoon. * This afternoon, however, did not pass without an in- cident in which I myself figured as the astonished party. I was the only visitor at the inn ; no one in his senses thinking of going to the Natural Bridge in the winter time. Several gentlemen of the neighbourhood, how- A DISAGREEABLE ADVENTURE 89 ever, — probal^ly accordiug to their usual Sabbath cus- tom, — had repaired thitlier on horseback to dine together. One of these, the biggest and sturdiest of tlie party, went down to dinner drunk and quarrelsome. ] f e sat exactly opposite me, and stared rudely and stupidly at me for some time. He at length asked me, in a rough manner, where I came from. I told him, and he ate two or three mouthfuls of his dinner, pausing between each to continue his steady stare. At last he suddenly stopped and said, abruptly, " Come here." I thought at first he might be speaking to a waiter behind me, and looked round ; but he instantly repeated the command, pointing to a chair next to him, and saying, " Come here; I want to talk to you." I answered, as coolly as I could, " No, thank you ; I prefer sitting here and eat- ing my dinner, and I advise you to go on with yours. If you want to talk to me, I can hear what you have to say just as well where I am." This produced a vacant, stupid look, and a short silence. One of the hotel people came up and apologised to me for the conduct of ray friend (?), saying he was not aware of his being so drunk, and begging of me to take no notice of what he said. I saw alarm depicted on every countenance. 'My toper grasped his knife, poised it carelessly, direct- ing the point towards me, as if with intent to throw it at me. I was exactly opposite, and though I did not much dread a drunken man's shot with a blunt knife, I was anxious to avoid a scene in a low, out-of-the-way place, where there were few who would sympathise much with me, though they might assist me if I were 1 1 ll ! , i I - ■ .t M 1 I'i J 90 CANADA AND THE COIMEA m I (ill! ii r [ •I !i' assaulted. T kiu.'W di-unkcn incu liiivc n ifrcat deal of sense, and are capable (»t" liein;^' aiiiu.sed by a litt It- talk; so 1 said to the brute oj)i)(>site uie, "Why do you want to (juarrtd with lue? Did you ever see iin- before? Then what reason iiave you for wishing,' tu (juarrel ? " 'Tiie knife remained poised in the hand ; I finished my dinner and left the tal)le, my brandy-and-water friend being held back by tlie others from making a rush at me. He was very noisy and troublesome for some time, but at last went home. 1 heard he was a doctor, and a perfect gentleman ! when he was sober. * 8andjo woke me, and I rose sleepy and unrefreshed. The rain had almost ceased ; soon it discontinued alto- gether. I sw^allowed a cup of tea, ate a mouthful of bread, cast a doubtful look at poor Do]>bin, paid my bill for a day's discomfort, and started. ' A benevolent individual at the inn recommended me to g(j home by a road different from the one I came by. I followed liis advice, and got into an old and almost impassable cross country road, and never thought I should get out of it. About four hours and a half were consumed in accomplishing the first fourteen miles of my journey to Staunton. I reached Lexington at about II A.M., and wished, after breakfast, to have proceeded at once, but was kept waiting for about an hour for a carriage, wdiich I had ordered at half-past 9 A.M. The day was Court day, a great and busy day at Lexington. Sales by auction were going on, and the place in a state of bustle, confusion and excitement. These Court days TRAVELLING UNDKR DIFFICTLTIES •J I coiiu' r(»iui(l nt tlio ('ommcncrMiu.it of nu'li moutli, .'iiul (lcl)ts arc jt.iid jiiid l)iirguiiis niadr <»ii flu; (tccasioii. 'Tlic ;ii rival of iiiv carri.'ii'e, drawn bv iincvenlv iiiiitclKHl hor.ses, rclievrd at last my almost oxliaiisteil patience. 'Twenty miles of our journey lay over plank-road, the rest ovei' jtoojs, aud ruts, nnd mud, which rt-ally diil lint deserve to be dignified bv the title of ro;id at all. .My poor horses ( I coidd L(et no cluin^'t? on the road) ^^t re nearly done u]>, and I was pretty tire(l myself wliiii T reached Staunton, at }ialf-i)ast 7 P.M. M had supper (which was also dinner and tea, as I had eaten nothinj;" since breakfast), and tui-ued in for finu' or five liours' rest. 1 went to Ijed a little after nine, and was again awaked, at half-past 12 4'.M., to start by the Winchester coach, which left at one in the morning. '■ MiU'cJi. l,s(f. — In the lumbering old coacli was onlv (lue passenger besides myself. Went off into a kind of doze ; night fine, and moon shining when we started ; clouded over, and commenced raining soon after. After some unwholesome and indigestil)le scraps at a dirty iini, at one o'clock, which passed for a dimier, coach at length became full. A negress and her baby sat oppo- site to me, and ol)liged me to keep my face turned to the open window. Do these people ever wash ? Two dirty agriculturists, in damp clothes, forced themselves ill ; and a vulgar woman with a frightful cough, and a wet bundle and bonnet-l)ox. In stage-travelling in the States, more than in railways, you see the discomforts of democracy. I wi h a few theorists wMjuld condescend to jostle awhile with the " o< ttoXAoj," they would then •\ u I I ■: I i. I: :!. 93 CANADA AM) THE CRIMEA ^i: I i ,' >, • a see the cap of liberty grimy with filth. There cm he no equality unless all men use Hoap and water, and certainly but WiiXa f rater] ml affect ion Itetween a j^cutlc- man with imniacuhite linen and the great *' unwashed." The road passed through a rich agricultural country, wdiere I was told some of the finest wheat in Americii was raised. The farms are very large, and but little manure used ; guano is occasionally employed. Tlio soil is not so rich as in Winconsin, where it is, if pos- sible, too prolific, and of inexhaustible fertility. The climate here is, hijwever, much henlthier, and the Airiiis nearer the great markets. * Left Winchester at 8 p.m., in the railway cars, for Harper's Ferry ; distance, thirty-two miles ; took three hours to go there ; line out of order, and engines feeble, as usual. Put into a miserable room, as cold as ice, with no fireplace nor chairs, and with dirty, cracked walls. Could have slept on a deal board. Coiled the clothes round me, and when the candle was out, discom- fort was banished. ^ March 2nd. — Dressed, and left my dismal apart- ment between seven and eight ; breakfasted on some greasy viands, and walked out. The day was lovely, and the air delightful. ' A gentleman, who, on the previous evening, had ■professed himself to be an Ultra Democrat, and had received a few languid attempts at jocularity on my 'part with roars of laughter, requested me, on my arrival at Horper's Ferry, to introduce myself to a relation of his, who rejoiced in the name of Snooks, and pursued ili^'t' HAnrKlUS FERRY 93 tlio avocation of a boot-makor. Snooks's disposition, lie told nu', ^vas most aiiiiable ; and his (lflii;ht at tlic o))j)ortiinity of sliowiiig mo tiic lions, wliicii, without sonic friendly guide, I should he utterly unahle to (lis(;()ver, would be unbounded. I thanked him a hun- dred times, and listened to the praises of the immortal Snooks with the resignation of exhaustion. I believe I Nvas too tired to laugh. My friend got out, and with bini vanished the shade of Snooks. 'The scenery of Harper's Ferry is very ])eautifid. Nature has done lier part towards rendering the spot both attractive and interesting; dkoi lias done his towards thwarting her benevolent designs. He crosses the two romantic "shining rivers"' on railway bridges like sheds, superlatively hideous ; and lie accompanies the gentle murmur of the Potomac for some miles with the sweet music of a steam-engine. The railwav skirts one bank of this beautiful river. Mr. Jefferson wrote a graphic and animated description of Harper's Ferry, which appears in his work on Virginia. It is the point of junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers ; and it is supposed that these streams, as if each con- scious of its individual inability, here combined their waters, and forced a passage through the Blue Kidge, which runs almost transversely to their course : this opinion lias been entertained by Volney, and other eminent travellers. The Shenandoah is a much smaller river than the Potomac. In the Potomac, above the point of junction, are several rocky islets, round which the water impatiently chafes. The river narrows as it fl ' ( Mi J,:. .,\ 94 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA m ;| '4 ' ft '^^ n\ ^ ill ■^ , Hi approaches the point, where it formerly encountered its great obstacle. The current is riipid, but tlie river, when it eifected the change in the aspect of nature, must liave been a stream of much greater power and magnitude tlian it is at present. Volney imagines it to be the contents of some vast lake (wliose 2)()siti(iii and boundaries may still be traced by the coal dej)osits which have l)een left), which at first found a small outlet through some rocky fissure, in time inci-eased it, and finally, with the whole weight of its waters, rent the rocks, and fornfed a mighty river. ' The village of Harper's Ferry is an ugly collection of dingy houses and barns on a bare hill side, close to the point of junction of the two rivers. A canal runs ahni^- one bank of the Potomac, near the village, and c(jni- municates with the city of Washington, which can be reached in a day and a half by the boats. * I walked up to "Jefferson's rock," a very strikiiii^' mass of stone, on a hill overlooking the whole scene, and tried to sketch it. From its sununit there is ;i beautiful view of the two rivers and surroiuidin*'- country. The whole landscape was bathed in sun- shine, and lay spread out like a may) at m}^ feet. Near Jefferson's rock is a pretty, (piiet little cemetery, over- looking the Potomac Eiver. Its site, like most of the cemeteries in the States, is well chosen. The resting- places of the dead are indeed everywhere in well- selected and appropriate situations. It is some con- solation to the mourner to think that the ashes of ihc departed loved one sleep in a spot where the bright sun AERIYAL AT WASHINGTON 95 casts his benms on a scene, calm, lioly, and beautiful : ;ai(l that, instead of the foul atmosphere of a city charnel-house, the air which steals over the tomb is hulfu with the sweet })erfume of delicate and lovely flowers, which the liaiid of affection has planted. 'At Harper's Ferrv is a lar<^(' armourv, where muskets and rifles are manufactured for the United States Army. [ walked through the workshops, and was much pleased witli the order, regularity, and method. The barrels of the muskets are brijj^ht, of the rifles browned. A mus- ket is manufactm-ed for from between nine and ten (lellars, and a rifle for aliout eleven or twelve. The annnury is under the superintendence of the ordnance. An arsenal is shortly to be built. ^ Mni'cli oi'd. — Started about 5 o'clock A. ^r. for Washinj^ton. Our enj^ine broke down about half-way there, and we were delayed for an hoiu' while it was uiuleru^oing repair. This brought us to Washington at a more ('hristian-like hour. I went to Gadsby's Hotel, where I had stayed on my former visit, but fonnd, as I had anticipated, every nook and corner occupied. I left my luggage there, and c(»mmenced a systematic hunt for a night's lodgiug. I tried several of the hotels, but at all received the same response. AEy hopes now lay in the ])rolia.bility of there being a room to spare at seme respectable tradesman's. I tried one or two, and at last, undeterred by visions of poisoning, had the courage to enter and make inquiry at a chemist's. Its owner could not accommodate me, but told me of a house where it was possible I might succeed in getting M i H' I I f 't ^ii; iii I . n 96 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA li X. I !. ;: I te.i i' i M' 1., H :l ■ :i a shake-down. It was a private residence belonging to a widow lady, who had consented to put herself to temporary inconvenience for the benefit of travellers. * Her house was conveniently situated near the Capi- tol, the dame herself portly and comfortable-looking, and I congratulated myself on my good luck ; my joy, however, was a little damped when my fair hostess gave the reins to her fancy, and indulged in speculation as to the number of additional wanderers she could ac- commodate. I had my luggage moved to the house, and then went to the Capitol to hear the debates of Congress. ' The Senate and House sat all night, and on the fol- lowing morning the members looked very jaded and knocked up ; however, they had a holiday till the month of December in store for them, and would soon recover from the cares and strifes of political life. I was much pleased with the urbanity, intelligence, and firmness of the Speaker of the Lower House ; his duties were arduous and troublesome, a perfect shout being raised, immediately after a division, of " Mr. Speaker ! " from all sides of the house, and a great deal of confusion and conversation going on during the transaction of busi- ness. The visitors' galleries in both Houses are small, and do not at all answer the expectations cr meet the wishes of the sovereign people, who '^ertainly ought to have a little accommodation to hear with their own ears, and see with their own eyes, how their servants are carrying on their affairs. * I went, during the afternoon, to a large Bazaar held iM» i> mm. I THE EYE OF THE INAUGURATION 97 jit the Patent Office ; there were a great many people there, and things of interest exhibited. Among these the daouerreotypes, and some pUms engraved most beauti- fully, especially attracted me. The Americans excel in thedaguerreotypingart ; this climate is more favourable to it, I believe, than that of Europe. The Patent Office, in which the fair was held, is a fine white build- ing, with handsome porticoes and column^. ' The bustle and gaiety of Washington to-day were quite animating; crowds were arriving by every train, and every steamboat discharged its living cargo of eager and expectant visitors. The accommodation of the city was completely exhausted, and hundreds passed the whole night of the 3rd of March in the great hall of the Capitol, or in roaming about tlie streets like troubled spirits. Even at the huge hotels, which one would think alone cajiable of accommodating a city or two, scarce a place could be obtained for dinner at the ordinary. A small crowd, waiting for vacant seats and sniffing the fragrant air, was stationed near the entrance to the diniug-room at Brown's Hotel, where I went to dine. I remained like them in anxious expectation, till a black waiter, opening the door a few inches, and par- tially revealing the paradise beyond, whispered, " Dat dere was seat for one," and then, without hesitation, I plunged into the apai'tment, and requested, in a decided tone, to be conducted to the vacant chair. I drank tea at my lodgings, and was formally presented by my buxom hostess to my fellow-lodgers. They were 11^ ^'1 r;: HI ! ... i ) u 98 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA t '■ i r I I I Iff > '!, I ' I , i I staid, middle-aged, quiet-looking people ; civil, 1)ut reserved. *The tea (with a due regard to economy) was served from a huge teapot by the lady of the house, and a very small negro boy handed it round to the company. We all dispersed after it ; I to the Senate House, mv friends where their inclinations led them. When I returned, at half-past twelve, I found madame sittini; up, looking very tired, and complaining of a head- ache. 8he said she did not know what she could do for me, as she had told some of the other gentlemen that if they brought home some friends they would he accommodated. I replied that it was not likely tliat they would think of bringing in strangers at that late hour, and as nobody appeared, she had accommodated another gentleman (my humble self) who was very tired ; that he was going away the next day, when a bed would be much at their service ; and I further added, as a still more powerful argument, that, thongli I certainly objected to sleeping double, I should be delighted if she would afford me the opportunity of paying for one beside myseJf : I also strongly insinuated that a bird in the hand was worth two in the bush. By degrees, my landlady began to admit the force of my reasoning, but requested double payment in advance. I placed three bright little gold dollars in her soft palm. lighted my candle, bolted my door (to secure myself from the invasion of disappointed applicants), and, with a chuckle at my diplomacy, and at the mercenary spirit | of stout females, was soon fast asleep. 99 CHAPTER VI. INAUGURATION DAY AT WASHINGTON — MEETING WITH THACKERAY — CHARLESTON. ' March 4tli. / ."' -r ^ '^PHIS eventful (lay broke gloomily: the sky was over- J- cast, the air raw and cold, and tlie whole aspect of tlie city as dreary a contrast as could well be conceived to the appearance of the previous day. ' Crowds began to muster at an early hour. Small parties of military, and deputations from various socie- ties and pid)lic bodies, might be seen, headed by their 1 lands, marching to their place of rendezvous, opposite the City Hall. Four guns of the Flying Artillery, preceded by some questionable trumpeters, seemed to excite great attention. I made no attempt to get into the Senate House, as I felt my doing so to be utterly hopeless. I walked again to the platform, and took my stand among a thin crowd, who were sliivering under their umbrellas, in a snow-storm. The crowd soon increased in size, and density, but the space in front of the Capitol is so large, that there was no crush. I stood about two hours in th(^ position I had chosen, exposed to the merciless snow, when distant music was H 2 ill [ MJ* i I I ii r '-/ •'(!' i 100 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ;,i,*ii, r ■ if „ if ■ 11 < : ■ "J ':' ( heard, and the shouts of a cheering multitude borne to our ears by the breeze. A bustle was observable at the back of the platform; a small dark crowd emerged from the doorways, and arranged themselves in order under the portico. An eager buzz of expectati<jn passed through the crowd of spectators. The dark figures advanced : a small man, with a large supporter on each side, occupied the central and most conspicuous place. He advanced to the table, with his hat off, and seated himself. This was General Pierce, the President elect. His face was pale and anxious, but determined and intelligent ; forehead broad and high ; mouth rather large ; lips thin and compressed, indicating firmness and decision ; eyes small, restless and observant ; his height below the average standard ; his appearance pre- possessing and gentlemanly. One might almost recall Macaiday's celebrated description of Warren Hastings, when gazing on his pale face, beaming with intelligence and spirit, and upon his small and delicate-looking form. There was a man, under whose portrait Avas legibly written "Mens cvqna in ardnis.^^ The members of the former Government, with their chief, the Supreme Court and Senate of the United States, seated behind him, formed a noble background to the j^rincipal figure. The oath of adherence to the constitution was adminis- tered amidst breathless silence, the whole multitude, as well as the President, standing uncovered. The solemnity, | and impressiveness of the spectacle were enhanced bj the snow, which fell on the bare and exposed heads oil the mute actors in the great moral scene, and tbe GENERAL TIERCE 101 ])orne to )le at tlic •ii'eclfvom ler under )n passed L-k fig-uies jr on each .ous place, md seated lent elect. nined and nth rather r firmness n-vant; his iiranee pre- most recall n Hastings, intelligence oking form, was legihly nembers of :ie Supreme [ited behiinl icipal figure, ^•as adminis- nultitude, a« le solemnity, enhanced by )sed heads oi ue, and tbe indifference witli whicli tliey bore what, at other times, and under ordinary circumstances, would have been .scnipulou.sly avoided, — a striking evidence of the readi- ness of even the most mixed, and heterogeneous nuiltitude to recognise and appreciate the sublime. General Pierce ttiok the oath, one hand raised in the air, and tlie other resting on the sacred volume. He repeated tlie words in a low voice, audible to him only who adnunistered it. He then advanced to the front of the platform, and amid hreathless silence, only interrupted occasionally by cheers, delivered his inaugural address. His voice was clear, distinct, and silvery ; he spoke with energy and gesticu- lation. At some of the most impressive parts of his speech, he half turned round, and addressed himself specially to the Senate. lie was applauded throughout, and especially at those points where he announced his determination to adhere to the ]\[onroe doctrine of for- Itidding colonisation by European powers in the American continent, and where he declared the Fugitive Slave laws of 18.51 to be strictly constitutional, and to be unhesi- tatingly enforced. He considered the slave system a right of the South, and the slaves a description of pro- perty as much to be protected and defended from injury as land or money. Jioth the.se items in his address will doubtless give offence. In England, the assertion of a doctrine which forbids our right to colonise in America, *' beyond present jurisdiction, as utterly inaduiissible," when our American territories are of greater extent than the whole of the United States, will seem a great piece of filibustering and swagger. The death-blow, also, thus ! * ' i I liii ■iir 102 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA .(• ■ ,. *». fii "ti ! ■ '.I :i i I i r r - I, firmly dealt at all the hopes of emancipators, and the dreams of philanthropists, cannot fail in creatiiii; a great sensation. I thought the si^eech, in both these particulars, faulty, and likely to exercise a had influence on the excited feelings of the great masses of the American people. The policy of this model repuhlic has always been grasping, warlike, and aggressive. Sucli a policy is suited to the feelings of the uneducated classes of an energetic, and enterprising people. The annexa- tions of vast territories, with, or without right, have been frequent and barefaced. Already Cuba, and Canada are reganled with envious eyes. A war, to secure the pos- session of either, would be instantly popular ; especially a war which might annex the former, as the struggle would be less protracted and injurious to the country, and the prize rich, and easily preserved. The Senators themselves say that no other power in the world should be permitted to obtain possession of Cuba, even if the Spaniards made a voluntary tender of their island ; and they have some show of reason for this determination. The rest of General Pierce's speech I liked very much : the language was nervous, and eloquent ; the sentiments noble, and patriotic. He reflected, with just pride and exultation, on the bright fulfilment of the most sanguine prophecies of the great foimders of the nation ; on her prosperity, increase of wealth, population, and territory; and then advocated, in glowing language, the necessity of union among the States, saying that if one bright star were withdrawn from their banner, no human hand could ever replace it. He concludea by referring all the iiiii t ^ THE INAUGURATION COMrLETED 103 l)les.sinf(s the country enjoyed to that (iod who presides over all things, and in whom alone countries as well as men should trust. Every one appeared delitj^hted with the speech, and I heard many peoj)le remark that it was the hest inaugural address ever heard. The immense crowd dispersed in an orderly juid (juiet nianuer, and tliL'ir shouts of applause were succeeded by the guns o\' the "Flying Artillery,*' saluting the new President of the Kepublic. (ieneral Pierce was attired in a suit of clothes, presented to him, I fancy, by the city of Boston ; at least, they seemed to correspond with the description, given in a Boston paper, of a dress in course of preparation in that city, by the best tailor, which was to be worn on the occasion. The city of Boston also presented the General with a very hand- some carriage, and a pair of fine bays. ' All the fun was now over. There was to be no ball in the evening, on account of the President's domestic 1 lereavement ; and the great event which had drawn so many of the sovereign people together, was a thing of the past. The snow still descended ; I was cold, and very tired. I determined, however, to exert myself and see as much as I could, as I was to start at nine in the evening for Charleston, South Carolina, w^here I wished to arrive before the 8tli of March, to catch the Havana steamer. I walked to the Patent Office, where General Washington's clothes and some of his camp furniture are shown, and where there is a large Museum, and collection of curiosities ; but I found tiie doors locked, it being a public holiday. I made another attempt to pro- ) ' i' H': 104 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA i :iMi'; i ! cure admission into tlie Smithsonian Institute, a lnr<,^>, red brick l)uildin<2f in the Norman style, which contains a picture gallery, and is devoted to scientific instruction. * I packed up my traps and drove down to the steaniei-, which I found crammed with some of the Richmond Rifles, who had taken a part in tlie procession, and were now returning home, and with a number of pleasure- hunters like myself. * The atmosphere of the cabin and sleeping-rooms was stifling. I walked miserrd)ly about, without knowing- where to repose my wearied liml)S. At length I sank exhausted on some flour sacks, where I was exposed to a fierce draught, which I bore sulkily for some time, and at last beat a retreat, and threw myself on a seat in the hot cabin. We were shifted at about 1 a.m. from the steamer to the railway cars, and arrived at Richmond just after sunrise on Saturday morning. ' A great part of the journey was through a swampy wood : all the land around seemed completely flat and but little cleared. Between Weldon, and Wilmington, North Carolina, indeed there are scarcely any signs of habitation ; some of the railway stations are nearly twenty miles apart, and the houses in their vicinity poor, and scattered. The railway between these two last places is an excellent one, and the fast trains travel at the rate of forty miles an hour. In South Carolinca, I was told by an engineer who had been employed in government surveys, that vast unhealthy swamps existed among the woods on table-lands elevated above the general level of the country. MEETS WITH THACKERAY 105 ' He instanc'C'd a well-known marsh, called the "Dismal Swamp," and drew a small illustrative sketeh. Ife said tliiit tlie woods in the neighbourhood of these dreary wastes, are more healthy than the eleared country. The Dismal Swamp mii,d»t easily be drained. *I reached Wilmincrton between nine and ten o'clock. ^ Sunday f Mdvch i)t It. — The day broke lovely, sun- shiny, and warm. It was like ])eing suddenly trans- ported to England at the end of May, ' The boat f(tr Charleston hjft at 10 a.m. We were to reach ('harleston at four or five o'clock on INfonday morning. The steamer did not go very steadily, though there was })ut little swell. What her conduct would have been had wind been blowing, I am ({uite at a loss to conjecture; but was very glad not to be in her under such circumstances. She stopped several times (luring the night, in the open sea, without any assignable reason, except perhaps to prevent her boiler bursting, and let off her steam with a prodigious noise. * To my great surprise I learned that Mr. Thackeray, whom I liad long wished to hear and see, was on board this (jueer little steamer. I recognised him in his spectacles, and German travelling-cap, from his likeness to his portraits. He is a tall man, with grey hair; his face is full ; forehead broad, and finely developed. A keen enjoyment of fun, and sense of the ludicrous, might be distinctively traced in his lineaments. I introduced myself to the great man's secretary (an artist, named Crowe, whom I found afterwards a very nice, gentle- manly fellow), and through him had the pleasure of ili I I ■ill 106 CANADA AND THE CIIIMKA m' ! nifikiiK' ATr. 'riiackcniv's ncciuaintauce. Ho was verv sotl.'ililc, niid talked in an unresiTvt'd, kind manner. •• ]Ic had Ix'en travt'llin*,' all ni^dit, and turned in for ;i few hours l»ef(»re tea to jjfet a nap. M)n a elear, calm evenin*^, with a deep l)lue sky, spangled with stars over our heads, Thackeray and I s;if talkin<' for more than two h(»urs. He told me he liked America, — thou«,dit her a very hue country, and enii- sidered her future as likely to be more glorious thuii England's. He said it did an Englishnum a great deal of good to travel in the States, as it removed a little of his pride and self-sufficiency. ' The Americans liad received him most kindly and liospitably. 'One or two articles had indeed ])een written in a different spirit when he first arrived, but this feeling had soon died away. *• He was much pleased with the great men of the country to whom he had been introduced. He spoke of the new President as a man of great intelligence, energy, and observation. ' jNlr. Everett he characterised as an elegant scholar ; and said the members of the whig administration, generally, were very good fellows, and perfect gentle- men. * General Scott he liked much, and called him a fine- hearted, noble old fellow. *He told me that lecturing in America had been a little harvest to him, and that he thought he should repeat his visit next year. as very lie i". iu for a ue sky, 1(1 I silt le likcl 1(1 CUll- us tliaii a j^'rcat en in a CTRIIEU IJF.I.L lo: * lie was injured a i^roat dral from the dioap rcpritits (.f Ills works ill the Statt-s, and said lie Imped an inter- national copyrii,dit l)ill would soon he passed, to remove the evil under wliicli authors, Kntrlisli anil Ainerican, l)otli surter. The ])resent system is, he tliinks, more jMinieious to Ameriean autiiors ami literutiin' even tiiaii it is to Knj^lish. A puhlisher will not ^'ive a j^reut writer, either on seientitic subjects or iu general liteni- ttirc, a high ]»ri('e foi- a work when he knows he eiin puiilisli one more elever and amusing, and of greater Karning and research, for n(»thing hut the price of till' i)aper, and the expense of arranging tlu; types. ' I asked Thackeray if he had read Currer Hell's la.st novel, " Villette," and he r«'i)lied that lie had not, hut wished particularly to do ho, as he knew the author. ' I tound subset [ueiitly, fn)m his secretary, that Thack- eray had been the first to discover and appreciate the merits of "Jane Kyre," and had written a congratulatory letter to the author, who was at that time niiknown to him. He Corresponded for some time with her, not knowing- all the time whether he was writing to a gentleman or a lady. Her letters were composed and written in a most masculine style, and were good botli in manner, and matter. Her last novel (which I had the satisfac- tion of being able to lend to Thackeray) is very melan- cholv, and sad. ' Thackeray liked " Shirley" better than " Jane Eyre," and I quite concurred with him. In the midst of our chat the steamer suddenly stopped, and commenced a see-saw motion from side to side. She then proceeded I I ■ 'I' \ \ 103 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA I ■ to let off her steam, making a most deafening and rather alarming noise. We could get no explanation of the reason of this pause, and were obliged to retire in the hope that aP was right. * The night continued calm and fine, and when I left my cabin at about six o'clock on Monday morning, I could see the glorious old sun, red-faced and happy, rising in the East, ai^d casting his beams upon the har- bour and town of Charleston, South Carolina. ' Charleston is built on the junction of the Ashley, and Cooper rivers. Its harbour is a line one, and well sheltered by islands, and a projecting tongue of land. The soil it is built upon is very light and sandy. It was formerly bounded by a marsh on one side, but this has been drained, and a quay built upon it, trees and grass planted, and a pleasant promenade made, miicli frequented on account of the sea breezes. Overlooking this promenade are some of the prettiest private houses in the place. They all have little gardens in front, which are adorned, so bountiful is nature in these sunny regions, even in March, with roses, geraniums, and lilies of the valley in full bloom. ' There are no very prominent, or conspicuous public buildings in Charleston, but its churches, exchange, court-house, &c., are all sufficiently handsome, and sub- stantial. The roofs of most of the houses are made nearly flat, to allow their occupants an opportunity for enjoying the summer evenings in the open air. * I was delighted with the trees in the streets, and with the fresh appearance of the grass. ifiill y CHAnLESTON 109 ' Charleston is an important commercial city. Its chief trade is in cotton. The plantations are some dis- tance from the town, and are visited by water — a steamer, for the convenience of planters, plyinj^ up and flown the Ashley river. During- the hot summer months, the air of the plantations is poisonous and pestilential. Xo white man can exist on them. They leave them uuder the management of black, or mulatto agents, and are only able to pay them a visit about once a week, or fortnight, and then only between the hours of sunset and sunrise. ' The atmosphere, which is destructive to the white, is perfectly harmless to the negro race, who enjoy it, and thrive under the hot summer sun. This is certainly a strong argument in favour of the existing system of slavery. ' I saw numbers of blacks in all directions ; most of therp very black and very hideous, but rarely were ray eyes refreshed by the sight of a mulatto, or even a man or woman with a dash of white blood in their veins. ' The mulatto women are represented as being good- looking, and having finely-formed and softly-moulded figures. They rarely appear in public except on great occasions, such as the 4th of July. They dress nicely, and are generally virtuous ; and in manner and deport- ment would give a very good and useful lesson (as I was told by the mayor of Charleston) even to white I I ' The great number of darkies is very striking at first. 110 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA !:( 'i ■ You see, even in the main streets, two or even three of these to every white man, and in the back streets you see no one else. I wandered to the military college at about five in the afternoon, and saw instead of a parade some slovenly marching, and a group of artillery militia in blue coats, small shakos, and red epaulettes, muster- ing for drill, with their black band. Blacks are often employed as musicians. The pure negro has an excellent ear for music, but can never be brought to understand it as a science, or even to read it from a music book. The mulatto, on the contrary, masters these difficulties, and thus shows the enlightening influence of white blood. * The women at the table d' bote were some of them rather pretty, — generally speaking brunettes, — and very rarely with fair skins and blue eyes. They are nicer looking, and more feminine and lovable than their Northern sisters. The men likewise, in the South, are more like Englishmen in appearance, manners, and tone of voice. South Carolina was originally colonised by English gentlemen, and their blood reappears in their descendants in spite of the influence of republican institutions. * Tuesday^ March Sth. — After breakfast I walked through the long market, where negresses, with white or coloured kerchiefs tastefully arranged, sit like pre- siding goddesses at their cabbage-stalls, and where negroes, greasy and well-to-do, superintend various experiments in the comparative anatoniy of sheep and oxen ; and found myself soon on board a small steamer AN HOTEL ROBBERY 111 bound for Sullivan's Island. This island is a favourite .summer resort. Its shores are washed by the waves of the Atlantic. It is covered, for some extent, with groves of myrtle, and I noticed several picturesque pal- metto-trees rearing themselves above the hot, loose sand of which the island is formed. A large hotel, deserted at this time of the year, stands on a point of land close to tlie water, and the summer retreats, with their veran- dalis, are mostly built focing and skirting the sea. 'I reached Charleston again at half-past 3 r.M., and went up to my room to get ready for a ride ; but f )und something: there, or rather the absence of some- thing, which detained me at liome. While I was away, some thief had surreptitiously o])taine(l admission to my bed-room, broken open my portmanteau, and abstracted therefrom the sum of 100 dollars in gold, which was neatly folded up in a small parcel. ]\Iy carpet-bug (in which were 200 dollars) looking very empty, escaped his observation. Nothing except the money appeared to have been taken. Vigorous measures were evidently necessary. I could entertain very little hope of com- pensation from the hotel proprietor, as warnings are pasted up in every room, cautioning travellers not to leave money or articles of value in their rooms, and statinnf that there was an iron safe in the bar where they might be deposited. I locked my door, and com- menced my long descent to the lower regions of the hotel, where the respectable occupants of the bar were to be found. On my way, I encountered Thackeray and his secretary, to whom I explained my loss, and who > ■ I V 112 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA i ; immediately acc(»mpanied me to the scene of devasta- tion. There lay the portmanteau most significantly telling its own tale. The robbery had been, performed by a dexterous and practised thief, as the lock was uninjured, and the portmanteau had been simply and neatly torn open. * The door of the room and its lock did not seem to have been touched, and indeed the latter was fast when I returned. We all went together to the bar, and I made my formal statement of what had occurred. The accoiuit was received with grave nonchalance, and indifference ; indeed, I was congratulated by one gentle- man on my escape from total bankruptcy. A stout man, with a peaked beard, seemed, however, a little melted; conjured up an expression of grave concern, and begged me to show him my portmanteau. I did so, and listened to the remarks and suggestions of my corpulent friend for ten minutes, when he left, after giving me very little consolation — (excej^t sympathy) for my misfortune — to order a smith up to repair damages. This useful individual soon made his appear- ance, and entertained me, in answer to my queries, with some agreeable descriptions of smashing open doors, and deeds of gangs of row^dies, who were wont, in former days, to follow their vocations at the Charles- ton hotel. * One advantage I gained from my loss — I was put into a much better room lower down, and treated with great civility. ' I went in the evening to hear Thackeray's lecture : iiiil .Vf 1 "TRUSS IN DE lord" 113 evast.a- [icantly •formed »ck was ply and seem to ^vas fast the bar, iccurred. lice, and ■i orentle- A stout a little concern, 1. I did is of my -ft, after mpatliy) o repair i appear- queries, ng open re wont, Charles- was put treated lecture : his subject was Jonathan Swift, and he treated it with skill, pathos, and elofpience. It appeared more than to satisfy the expectation of the audience, and struck nie as a finished and masterly performance. *I met Thackeray on the steps, just {^oing out of the hall, and he introduced me to the Mayor of Charles- ton, and tw^o or three other gentlemen, who, 1 found, had taken him in tow for an evening's amusement, and were about to entertain him with the spectacle of a '• quality ball," to show him that niggers could some- times be happy, and endeavour to soften his Anglican and abolitionist prejudices. . ' We adjourned from the Hibernian Hall, in the first instance, to the Main Guard-House, wdiere we smoked cigars, to the music of the worst drums to which it has ever been my evil destiny to listen. They reminded me, in tone, of the sweet sounds which are evoked from the toys of our infancy, and in power to three or four hun- dred penny drums all going together. ' The Ma}' or told us several amusing anecdotes about the nicrgfers. One was of an old fellow who was cele- Ijrated for his preaching and religious fervour, and always took for his text the words " Truss in de Lord." On this he was in the habit of discoursing most elo- quently ; and he enjoined, in an impressive manner, the whole congregation, in whatsoever position of danger, distress, or difficulty they might be placed, always to " Truss in de Lord." One day the old gentleman was seen in a canoe, half full of water, in the centre of a rapid stream, calling most vigorously and lustily for 1 r Mti ( i ,, .. lU CANADA AND THE CRIMEA help. His cries reached the ears of two of his coii- gre<j;ation, who, at some risk, and amidst his shrieks of terror, extricated him from liis perih)us position. Wiicu they all got safe on land, his rescuers could not help being struck at the complete despair of their reverend pastor, when he found himself in danger, and one remarked : " I sa}^ Samho, you didn't seem to truss in de Lord den much. Why didn't you truss in de Lord, you nigger?" to which the other replied: "Always truss in de Lord, my bredren, on de land; but no truss in de Lord on de water ! "' 'The negroes have a great reverence for the dead, and their funerals are performed witii much pomp and cere- mony. They conceal the spot where the body lies hy a hundred ingenious artifices, to prevent its being dis- interred, and dissected by medical students, of whicli they have a great dread and horror. * ]Most of the negroes are ]Metliodists, or Baptists. Many of them are really honestly and sincerely pious, and they all take great delight in going to church. They prefer white to black preachers ; indeed, the latter often preach the most extravagant nonsense, — one man hav- ing gravely told a congregation, which received the assertion with the gravity of him who uttered it, that " he had seen Gor de Fader at de footstool of de Holy Ghost ! " * There are several free blacks at Charleston, men of property, who of course are as much under the protec- tion of the law as the whites. They are interdicted, however, from marrying white women ; and whi^e n.'^v^ A QUALITY BALL 115 are similarly prohibited from csj)ousinfi; ucgrcHscs, or nnilatto women. 'Xow for the ({iiality l)all I We threaded several narrow, obscure, and dirty lanes, and, after groping tlirnnyh a long, da.rk, breakneck passage, found our- selves in a tolerably large room, completely filled with the votaries of Terpsichore. Every one had come for ^'ood, earnest work. There were no louni>-ers and mere lookers-on, and, in fact, no room for them. We took lip our stand near the head of the room ; the music struck up, and ])roceedings commenced. The band played a noisy air, and the dancers' movements were regulated by a nigger with stentorian lungs, who shouted out, in the most commanding voice, "Hands 'cross,"' " Turn your partners," ^^c, all which direc- tions were complied with, with much grace and in admiral )le time, Thackeray declared it was the best dancing he had ever seen. Here, and there a little attl'ctation and conceit were exhibited by some peculiarly ebony lady ; but great order, politeness, and decorimi prevailed. ' One or two of the women were olive, and wore ring- lets. They might have passed anywhere for Spanish Creoles, but were all slaves. The contrast of the black arms, and necks with the white dresses was singular, and picturesque. The dresses were occasionally pretty, though there was evidently a great absence of stays. The women's feet and ancles, hands and arms, and occasionally figures, were good. The men were dressed in their ordinary walking clothes, with an occasional I 2 C: iM* 116 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA '> ! lover in correct evening costume, and had all of tliem clean sliirts on. One bouncing Itlack Leanty attracted Thackeray's attention, and I saw on his table next doy an admirable little sketch of a gronp of dancers, with her comely figure in a conspicuous position, executing " a pas," and a capital likeness of a most die-away and affected " thing" (as the ladies would have called her), going through a killing, and bewitching movement at the side. We stayed about half an hour at the l)all (merely as spectators, of course), partook of some refreshment, consisting of plum cake, and very nice sassafras beer, and toddled home to bed, bidding our friends adieu. 117 CHAPTER VII. CHARLESTON — SLAVE MARKET — SAVANNAH — KEY WEST. ' Tluirsdav, March 10th. ' "ITTENT at 11 a.m. to sec the sale by auction of niuety- * » six prime negroes, which t(3ok jjhiee near the Exchange. The gang was to be sold in families ; all good field-hands, or some other excellent qualification, and to be disposed of, at so nuieh a head, without reserve. The negroes, with their wives and little ones, were standing; huddled too-other in a crowd behind the platform, on which each family was exposed for sale in turn, according to a printed programme. Many of tliem seemed indifferent, and a stout negress or two looked, occasionally, even defiant ; but there were several mothers with their babies at their breasts (and even black innocence, and helplessness are pretty and inter- esting) sobbing bitterly. The auctioneer explained the conditions of sale to the company, and stated that all the niggers were to be considered sound, unless anything was said to the contrary. There was no degrading exhibition to ascertain physical efficiency, but all the negroes were in decent clothing. The slaves were (/ ■■; 118 CANADA AND TKi: CTilMEA rf arranired in families, accorcliiii^ to their nearest relati(jii- ship, and sold in lots at so much a head. The compctitiuii was tolerably brisk, and several lots — old men, babies, and all, sold very well. The seeiie, of course, was iii(»sl painful, humiliatin<5% and dei,n-adin<^-. I Ijeeame (iiiite affected myself, and was oblij^ed to hurry away, for tear of showing what I felt. * March Will. — Left Charleston on a lovely morniiiL;' for Savannah. AVe entered the Savannah Kiver at half- past thn.'e in the afternof>n. The sun came out, and lighted up a jierturbed stream, the C(jloiir of copper, and low, marshy banks. The Savannali river resembles the Mississippi in general character ; it winds through swampy islets, only visible at low water, on which m summer the alligatoi's deliuht to bask. ' Savannali is twenty-fcnir miles from the mouth of the river, and in the centre of the rice country. We passed several rice plantations ; they are perfectly flat, and heUnv the high-water level of the river. They are protected from its waters by embankments. In the spring, when the crops are sown, the sluice-gates are opened, and the plantations flooded, and kept covered with water till the yoxmg rice shoots above their surface, when they are drained, and the rice left to the action of the sun. ^ Savannah itself is built on a sandy bluff, elevated about forty feet above high- water mark. It is laid out in fine, broad, regular streets, and avenues lined with trees, and green sliady squares, which give it a most pleasing and rural appearance. The variety and beauty SPRING IN SAVANNAH Iff moniiii'; of its trees are very strikinj^^; there are Hevi'ral descrip- tions of live-(tak, a tree wliic-h lives ft»r lunidrcds of years, like our j^iant of tlie forest; tlioii;;h in other rt'Sjieets it l)iit little resembles it. Its branehes arc adorned, all the year round, with festoons of dark slatr- c'oloured moss, which han|4" from them in droopinjjj dusters, sometimes ten or twelve feet Ion;;-, contrastiui;- strang'ely with the bri<;ht green buds of oj)eninn- spring, which the supporting boughs are putting forth. I saw the olive-tree in blossom, the laurel sixteen or eighteen feet high, "the sad cypress," the null berry, the pine, the cedar, the Pride of India tree (covered in summer with large lilac blossoms of a languidly rich perfume), and several other varieties I was too i^iKjrant to recounise. The effect produced by this great and luxuriant variety of foliage can readily be imagined. ' Mardi \'2th, — At both Charleston, and Savannah I felt the debilitatorv influence of a southern clime, and a feeling of languor and depression. This wore off, however, after a short time. I began even to like the hot weather. It was such a sudden change from the dreary monotony of a winter landscape, to the bright and gorgeous hues of summer. Here all the trees of the forest are budding, and blossoming. The young fruits of the earth sprouting green, and fresh above its surface : the delicate, and beautiful flowers of summer blooming fearless of the withering frost, the bright and glorious sun warming, and gladdening the whole with his genial presence. ' The sun is a great inspirer of poetry ; how does the I. ISO CANADA AND THE CRIMEA younj^ poet, or lover delight to muse under the calm influence of liis declinin«j^ <ijl(U-i('H, when the whole land- scape is gorfjjeously painted with the }j;l()win|j^ tints (if lieaven, and the air, laden with ])erfuin(', is wafted <^t'ntly throu<»h the boughs, whispering peace, and bidding thouglits of care and grief depart from the consecrated ground. *Love must be quite another passion in these sunny abodes. * I left my hotel immediately after breakfast, and, on the principle of "business first, pleasure afterwards," went to the agents for the Havana steamers, and paid ^40 for a passage l)y the good steamship Ysahil. I was told I must get a passport, and went to the Frentli Consul for that purpose, but unluckily he was from home. I procured a horse, and rode tlirough a wood, in which the wild jasmine was growing in beautiful lux- uriance, to Bonaventure Cemetery, about four miles from Savannah. I met with an incident on the way which amused me. I had become a little confused, by a number of roads in different directions, and apparently at cross purposes, and found myself, after keeping for some time to one, which seemed probably the most cor- rect, riding past a few rude cottages on the edge of a bluff, overlooking the Savannah River. A negro was at the door of one of the huts, and I made inquiries of him as to the bearing of the lost cemetery. His master stepped forward to my relief, pointed out the direction in which I should ride, conjecturing, from my ignorance of the locality, that I must be a stranger. I told him i I A SIAVE OWNER IJl wiio, and what T wjih (;. Hritisli siilialttTii on fiirldngli ), and tlion my old friend (lie told nic lie was st-ventv) CDnmicnccd a speech Jiliu.ut slavery, which it wouM lia,v«' cditicd Mrs. Stowc herself to have listened to. His l;in''ViaL'e with rcLiard to that ladv's famous production was forcihle, thouj^di ,ot particidarly ele^^•u^t ; and he spoke with the earnestness, and indij^nuition of a man whoso character, or fair fame had been unjustly taken iiway. He tohl me liis father was an Enj^dishman, and he hoped that F, as an Ku'^lish otficer, would endiracc every opportunity for observation or investigation which presented itself, and use my best efforts, if myself con- vinced, to disabuse the minds of my friends, and (I think the old gentleman said) the public generally, of the prejudices, and false notions they had formed from reading that string of lies, which endeavoured to shelter themselves in a cabin. "You couldn't buy my slaves, sir,*' said he, very vehemently, "they wouldn't leave UK"," and such is the case very fre(piently. " Tliey enjoy," he added, " more comforts, and are better pro- vided for and happier, than thousands of your white coun- trymen in the large manufacturing towns of England." He told me t(^ go to their church, observe their appear- ance, and demeanour, and note the neatness, and care with which they were dressed, and the perfect liberty they enjoyed during tlie Sabbath. I promised to do all this, and ))id(ling my friend good-bye, after hearing him descant on the comparative salubrity of his situation (near a moimd of oyster-shells in a state of partial de- composition), returned towards the town of Savannah. li (I [Jl 122 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA * I rode towards a square, gloomy-looking house, wliicli lie liad indicated to iiie in the distance, {uiil, dismounting, knocked at the door to make furtlier inquiries, according to n\v old friend's direction. 1 was oljliged to repeat the rap several times, before it was responded to; ;ind was just on the point of going away, when the door was opened hy a gaunt negro, witli a hollow voice, and imbecile manner, lie pointed out a foot-path, which he said I must follow ; and in answer to my inquiries as to the proprietor of the cheerful mansion from whence he had emerged, told me it was a pest-house, where patients ill with the small-pox were placed I He relieved my mind a little by telling me that there was no one afflicted with that disease in the place at the time, and tliat there were but few cases, except in the summer months. I did not feel inclined, however, to prolong the conversation, but wished lay friend good morning, and commenced tracking the "bridle path" (as G. P. Iv. James would have called it) throufdi the wood, ' I soon reached the cemetery, a most secluded spot, where you might easily fancy the weary lie at rest, and the wicked cease from troubling. There was a holv, sacred calm about it, harmonising well with the char- acter of the place. The trees which adorn it, and which give it a character peculiarly triste, and appro- priate, are a descriptit)n of live-oak, more than one hundred years old, planted in regular row^s, with the funeral-looking moss hanging in weeping clusters from their branches over the graves beneath. I'm hi BONAVENTURE CEMETERY 123 ig bouse, Liice, and, e further un. I was re it was •iiio- uwav, ro, with a uted oiU a in answer -i cheerful le it was a [-pox were tellin-j; me ^ase in the few cases, 1 inclined, ^•ished my ckin;4' the called it) iided spot, t rest, and IS a holy, the char- n it, and nd appro- than one , with the sters from 'No one who has not sei-n these extraordinary and beautiful trees can imagine the effect produced by several rows of tlieni, with intertwining boughs, i)lanted over a space of five ov six acres of ground. There are hut few nionunients, and these generally phnn and unpretending. No ]\Ir. Snooks, with millions of dollars, has, as yet, erected a shapeless mass to his parents, children, or wife ; and no ohl gentleman, with an eye to the future, has engaged a last resting-place for himself and family, built in the rectangular form, with an inti- mation to the public, on the outside, tliat it is his family vuult. I think I saw one vault of this descrip- tion, but forebore to lool' at it. I rode home at a snmrt canter, and reached my hotel just in time for dinner. 'At five I called on the English Consul {^h\ Moly- ueux), wdiom, on second thoughts, I considered I ought to apply to for my passport, as it would be unpatriotic on my part to divert the fee from his pocket to that of a foreigner. ]Mr. ]Molyneux was not at home. I left a card, and walked through the town to the j)ark, where I saw several young ladies, walking innocently, and in pairs, with sprigs of jasmine in their hands — emblematic, I am informed, of gi'ace, and elegance. Either the gentlemen of the place thought themselves graceless, and inelegant, or reserved the charms of their society for tlie ball-room, and house ; but the young ladies seemed to be left to waste their "grace and elegance" in the <iveniug air alone. I would have given anything for an introduction ; but I was obliged to sit looking on, like a miserable fox among grapes. My Georgian friend H : :f 1 ' 1 1 1 : 124 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA i' ! I f , I came to my relief, and I strolled aljout with liim, and went to see the risino" generation instructed in the art of dancing. The liitle things did very well, and there were several pretty little girls, of about five or six, who footed, and glanced it to perfection, and who will do wonders, if they preserve the similitude of their present smiles, and ankles. My friend, after arranging that I should drive out with him to dine in the coiuitry at twelve o'clock on Monday, left me, and I went home to tea. ^ March I3th. — After a short stroll 1 went to a black church, according to my old friend Thunder! )olt Bluff's advice. The service, I was told by a black at the entrance, would commence in a few minutes, and he politely conducted me to the pews especially reserved for whites. These were exactly opposite the pulpit and a kind of reading-desk below it, with an old bible on it, and three or four chairs placed round, as I conjectured, for the elders of the church. I was the only white man present. The church was a rectangular, phiin room, with windows resemlding those of an ordinary house in size and appearance ; its walls had a dingy look and a certain air of shabbiness, and poverty seemed to pervade the whole place. * The congregation assembled slowlv, and I had time and opportunity for studying each individual that entered. The men were all respectably, some well dressed; the women, generally speaking, patronised gaudy colours, but looked very nice, and tidy. I got tired of waiting for the clergyman, but was relieved l>y 41 m A BLACK CONGREGATION 125 a man in yellow ''n-ecches voluntarily taking upon him- self the duties of pastoi-, and, after a brief expression of regret at the shej^herd's absence, commencing the service by reciting a hymn of six verses. This he re- peated again two lines at a time, joined by the congre- gation in a loud, harsh, nuisical chorus. After the liynni, my friend (who had taken his stand at the desk exactly opposite me) commenced an extempore prayer, which was good, though a little abounding in tautology, and was earnest and sincere in delivery. A sermon (on certainly "an appropriate text for the occasion), " The harvest truly is plenteous, but the labourers are few," gave me an opportunity of forming a better estimate of my volunteer's powers of composition. I[e preached very sensibly. A hymn similar in length and execution to the one preceding it, and another prayer, delivered from the centre of the church, at the request of the gentleman officiating, by a member of the congregation, completed the service. I saw a good deal of friendly Lauds-shaking, like the " how-dye-do" at an English village church on Sunday ; u; d, as it was hardly twelve, went to another church, white this time, and heard another sermon. After the completion of this second service I called again on the consid's ; and, hearing that he was out, but expected home in a few minutes, took a seat in a comfortably-furnished room, ornamented with portraits of "H. M. G. 31." and " H. K. H." and par- liamentary companions, navy lists, &c., on the table, all remindins: one of Old England, to await his return. A gentleman (whom I at first took for the consul) occu- '-;; i 1 i I: i i 126 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA i ,! ! > I pied a chair when I entered, and exchanged a few commonplaces with me. Our consul soon came in, shook hands with me very cordially, and asked me to dinner. He was a grey-haired old gentleman, who had filled the office of consul for thirty years, and a thorough Englishman in appearance and maimer. His wife was a nice person, and I soon felt myself at home diniiiL? with the pair; I had a snug little dinner, and a good glass of wine after it, and talked to mine host about Canada, the K. jM. A. at Woolwich, and the army. He told me he had a son at Rughy, who wished to go into tlie army ; and a daughter whom he occasionally yisited at a school at New York. He drove me out in a tilbury — a good old English tilbury ! — to see a great raihvay termi- nus which is in course of construction, and will be the ter- minus of the railway to NewOrleans and the inlandtowiis, and cities of the south. In a few years the facilities of communication in this part of the country will have much increased. Xovj, a person may travel by railway, and steamer across the country to within five or six miles of New Orleans. * One or two gent', men came in during tL^ evenin''. and a slow scientific discussion on the merits of tlie Ericson hot air vessel was C(/mmenced. I waited for a pause, rose, and said " Good night," promising to come to breakfast at eight o'clock the next morning. ^ March I4th. — Wet morning. Borrowed an um- brella from the man at the bar, and sallied out to the consul's. Met Mr. JNIurray at breakfast. He is a Charleston man, and had been educated with the elegant CHARLESTON RACES 12: mayor of tlint city. He told me that tlie moiitli of February wjis the most favonra1)le one for seeing Charleston in its ,L,dory, as ])eople flocked there then from all parts of the States to the races. These races he descrihed as l)ein!4' ^'i^ l'*'st in America; the horses are ridden by niL;L;er hoys, who take an immense deal of pride in their master's horses, and would scorn the offer of a bribe to lose a race. The racing is, therefore, jiist what it ought to be, a fair and generous competition between a nmnber of noble aiiimals. Murray further said that English gentlemen, officers from Canada, were invited to all the balls, and to participate in all the amusements of the places He, I Avas happy to learn, had experienced much kindness from the T'Jth Kegijuent when he visited (Quebec, and, I think, he had formed, and, I hope, diffused, a favourable opinion of the hos- pitality of the l^ritish army. John J^ull, whatever may be said against him, is a sociable animal, and feels as much pleasure in securing a wanderer, and ])lacing his legs under his mahogany, as an experienced fisherman in successfully landing a fine salmon or trout. .Aly friend ^lolvneux (the consul), who had these true John Bullian feelings, wanted me to dine with him again ; and when I pleaded previous engagements, invited me, on my return from "the Havana,"" to stay at his house till the boat started for New York. [ only gave a (qualified assent. ]Molyneux drove me to my lu^tel, and shook hands with me. He would take nothing for my passport, but said it was a general rule that no charge should be made to gentlemen wearing her ^Majesty's ."1 Mi 1 7: '1 i 123 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA I t i' livery. I found that Thackeray and Crowe had arrived, and walked over to tlie American Hotel to see them. They were very badly accommodated; the liotel was dirty and imcomfortable, and the beds well inhabited with a busy and thrivini>- population. They could get no rooms at the Pidaski-house. ' A very scraj^'gy-lookin^ man, whom I afterwards dis- covered was a member of a deputjition from " the Young jNIen's Association," was engaged in conversation witli Thackeray when I entered. I afterwards heard that he felt favourably disposed towards me, and would have shown me the lions, and probably feasted me, had I stayed at Savannah. * Crowe was pleased with the trees and squares, and the general appearance of the place. They expected a deputation, so I left them and went back to my hotel, where I packed a dress suit in my carpet-bag, to change for dinner when I got into the coimtry. My Georgian friend called about twelve o'clock, and we started together at half-past twelve in a light buggy. ]My attention was attracted, while going through a wood, by a number of large, dark birds perched on the trees; my companion told me they were turkey bustards, the scavengers of the Southern cities, and that it was illegal to shoot one. I subsec^uently saw a number of these gaunt, unpleasant-looking birds hard at work, picking up scraps near the market-place at Charleston. The proprietor of the house I was about to dine at, was tlie son of a Scotchnum (a Mr. INI'Alpine), who had com- menced life with nothing but his wits and a stu:pence, A DAT IN THE COUNTRY 129 rrivod, tlieiii. el was laViitcd lid get rds dis- Yoiuii^ m wit] I tluit lie Id have , had I res, and 3ected a y hotel, clianj^'e eori^'ian started ood, by trees ; ds, the illeo-al ■ tlie.se kicking The was the d coin- j:pence, and by energy and l)rickmaking had accinnulated a large fortune, and built a good house. The property (according to law in this part of the country) was left to be evenly divided among all the children, the eldest son managing it for himself and the rest, and getting nothing but one share in the spoil for his trouble ; a most ridiculous custom, and the ruin of many line estates. Passing through a straight avenue of trees, we came to a little street of negro huts ; ipiaint, square, peculiar nut-shells, with padlocks on the doors, and a tire, or the remains of one, burning on a vessel in front of each, and designed to keep off the insects. The proprietor's house, which was handsome, stood, unfor- tunately, on very low ground, and was near the muddy marshy river; the brothers, who were practising ritle shooting, received me very cordially. The eldest I was particularly pleased with ; a kind-liearted, fine, good fellow. He was much more like an Englishman than an American. He shewed me his place, his brickmaking, his saw-mills, horses, rice, &c., and pointed out several localities which had been the scenes of skirmishes and encounters during the American war. (Jne tree near liis house still retained traces of a cannon ball, which had been, he conjectured, fired by the Britishers to ascertain their range before opening a cannonade from their batteries. Sickness and fever had killed more men than the sword on this occasion. ' Women (negresses of course) were employed at brickmaking a« well as the men; they seemed very strong, and able to work very hard. The system my ,!! I t ! ! !l l! • I ' i ' ( : ; i t ■ I \\ Ji l;; i f 130 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ! ; i n V * ■ % friend employed w.as that of tasks, — a very judicious one. A certain fair amount of work is to lie gut througli, and then liurrali ! for li])erty. I have always preferred this phm to the monotonous lazy drud^-ery of so many ho\irs' work. Tlie nii;'«4'ers were wlieeHui;- barrows of bricks, so heavy and piled up, that I, thougli tolerably strong", could scarcely even lift the arms of the barrow. ' In a return of births and deaths, published at Charleston, seven blacks are reported as having- died ovei* a hundred years old, and between the ages of twenty and thirty but few negroes had died ; where a corre- sponding return shewed great mortality among the whites. This speaks something for the care with whicli the skives are treated, and the comforts they must enjoy in their old age. We had a plain, liomely, country farmer's dinner, and smoked some cigars afterwards. None of my new acquaintances wer(!: particularly re- fined either in manner or conversation. They were kind hospitable people, however, and the elder brother <|uite realized in my mind, Pope's " noblest work of Crod." To bed at eleven. ^ Mdrcli \5th. — Walked out before breaktjxst to the Exchange to get a view of the city and surroundinL;' country. Savannah looks something like a vast garden: the trees have a beautiful effect. ' There were a great many passengers, and a vast number of trunks and portmanteaus for the Havana })oat. We were all to start in a little steamer at nine, and lay off the bar till the Isabel from Charleston came 3t' AN rNTLKASAM VOYAGE l.Tl in si<;lit. The day became lovely. I sat on deck reading "The Caxt(»ns,"' and looking- at the passing vessels sailing or steaming in or out of the harbour. We passed a small steamer with funnels near the bows, and decks piled with bales of cotton, till she looked a large shapeless mass : vessels laden thus will carry an inmiense freight. We had a wretched dinner on board our "wee*" boat, and lay off Pulaski P'ort, — a large s(|uare work, recently completed at gre.at expense, near the mouth of the river. I inspected the fort ; it is casemated, and has great bomb-proof accommodation. It will be very heavily armed when the guns are moimted on the pivots designed for them. ' It has only one outwork, a weak ravelin, with a narnnv ditch not more than twelve feet broad ; the ditch of the main work is about thirty feet in breadth. Tlie escarp is exposed, and the faces of the work are long, and miglit probably be enfiladed by a steamer at a distance ; the guns will be mounted eti fxtrhctfe. The sides of the scpuire are broken into small bastions ; the firo from the casenuites would render the passage of the ditch dangerous. ' There were a good many passengers on board the [s((b('l. A group of ladies, looking pale and interesting, were sittini; imder a kind of roof in the centre of the passengers' deck. Our party was shipped in small boats, wliich, owing to a swell, was rather a troublesome job. ' March \(')fh. — Came on deck feeling rather sick; all the ladies had disappeared fr(jm the scene, and were ^tretclied on btids and sofas in various attitudes of K 2 i ' I i; f . l", /l t '!' 'H 132 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA wretchedness. There were sixty-five passengers f)n board, and nearly every berth taken. I was (loul)led up with a sea-captain, with stentorian Kings and excel- lent constitution. I occupied the upper berth, and generally found my companion, with his clothes on, asleep when 1 turned in. He never snored, and got up at daybreak — two very desirable qualities. Every one looked miserable. I felt a vertigo in my head, but persevered in reading. The wind was cold and raw, and blew in a most deterinined manner. P\)r a larjie steamer the Isabel is a very l)ad sea-boat, rolling and pitching tremendously. I managed to keep the demon of sea-sickness at bay, and eventually completely tri- umphed over him. The gale delayed the steamer, and we made very little headway. * March \7tk. — The same monotony as yesterday, but in sight of the Florida coast greater part of the day. : ; 133 CHAPTER VIII. ( r KEY WEST AND THE HAVANA. March 18th. ' 4 LOVELY clay. We had passed from the regions of -^ winds and storms into a calm sea, and a delicious, halmy air. It is about 10 a.m. We are approaching Key West, near the extremity of the Florida Keef. Several little deserted coral islands are in the distance, and we see occasionally the white sails and elegant out- line of a cutter, relieved by the blue sky beyond. Most of the passengers are on deck — pale, pretty faces, scarcely recovered from the effects of that terrible storm ; but the sea now looks so placid and beautiful, and the air is so soothing, that they must soon recover ; besides, we are approaching land, and land is a nuigic word. We are to have a long rest at Key West (rhyme unintentional). We shall land and roam about it, shall get off that abominable little deck, and be able to walk hundreds of yards without turning. Ha I there are the stars, and stripes floating on the American barracks ! Two or three companies of artillery are stationed there, — a dull quarter I should think ; there is, however, ! 1^ il 1 134 CANADA AND THE CKIMKA I f plenty of fi.sliiiij^' iuifl boatiiif,', T suppose. Tlicre is tlie towii,a,n(l a fort tluy are build ini;'. Kroinall those (|ueer seuffol(liii;^s they look out for wrecks, and can see it vessel on the reefs a.t a <;reat distance. The |i(;oj>le here fjjain their livelihood by \vreekinL>-, L»eneraliy speaking;, besides which they catch and sell turtle. 'There was no use in coutinuinj,' our voyage, a> we should have found the harbour of the JIavana closed a<j;ainst us, and Ix-en fired into if we had attempted to enter it. We were too late to reach it befon^ sunset. We will stay at Key West till the eveniuj;-, and cross the gulf durin*;' the nii;ht. We hope to see the; sun rise over the island of Cuba. But now what shall we do? We have a ^-ood deal to look at. What a strange place this is where we have suddenly found ourselves, and are so unexpectedly to pass the day at I Let us look about us. ' ]Marcy and myself strolled along the beach, and picked up a few small and pretty shells to ])reserve as mementos. The sun was terrifically hot, and, after walking about a quarter of a mile, we were not sorry to take shelter in the friendly shade of the Marine Hos- pital. Here we had a chat with an attendant, a re- spectable, middle-aged, sallow man. He told us that, during the summer, there were frequently the entire crews of ships in hospital there with yellow fever. They came principally from New Orleans. There was no disease produced in the island itself, which was exempt from the ordinary scourges of a hot climate. There was a breeze continually blowing, but little rain, and no KEY WEST 13ft colli weather, (iales of wiiul were not fre(|ueiit. Most of the wrecks t(»<»k plac(^ in culiii wcutlicr; they were occasioned by the etVect of the gu It-stream on vesneKs whicli liad become becahiied. " Why don't tliey,*' said I, "iiave a smnll t\v^ steamer to tow tin ni beyond the reefs in eahn weatiu'r'/ Surely it is worth tiio cx])ense." "1 don't know, Sir," replied the nmn. .Alany of the vessels iire fully insiu'ed, and, when tliey are old ships, they often run npiui the reefs on purpose. Jiives are scarcely ever lost. The wreckers get thirty per cent. (I afterwards learned) of the value of the cargo they save. The wrecking schooners, and cutters are fust sailers, and beinitiful-louking craft. I saw a little schooner ajtparently just off the stocks, and as trim and as neat as a genth-man's vacht. She was rigged rather like the celebrated America. These wrecking vessels draw very little water, and are able to sail 111- side the reefs, where they are (juite protected from the action of the gidf-streani. They average, I should think, from thirty to 150 or 200 tons. Numerous hsh- iug boats sail with fish from Key West to the Havana, starting from one place with American colours; and entering the other with Spanish. The fish caught in these seas are gorgeous to look at, the sun, it would seem, even illumining their scales " in the depths of the sea ;" but they are tasteless and insipid to eat. Give me the fish, fruits and flowers of a temperate clime ! Key West, aljout which and over which I liave been rambling, is an island about twenty miles long, at the extremity of a coral reef which stretches in the form of Mr ■11 136 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA a curve from the southernmost point of Florida into the Gulf of Mexico. It is a most important point, as it commands the entrance to the gulf. It belongs to the State of Florida, and contains a larger population than any other town or city in that barren tract, num- bering about 3000 souls. It is at present the southern limit of the United States. The inhabitants are partly American, and partly emigrants from the Bahamas, who at elections hoist a flag with a shell on it as an emblem of royalty. They are a miserable set, and live in dirty wood huts in a state of great filth and discom- fort. They left the Bahamas on account of the libera- tion of the blacks in those islands. The Yankees try to paint them worse than they are, but I am inclined to think that their principal vices are ignorance and poverty. They gain their livelihood entirely by wreck- ing. I do not recollect ever seeing so many drinking establishments ; every third house seemed to be dedi- cated to Bacchus, though I must add, in justice, that soda-water and cooling drinks seemed almost as much in demand as more inflammatory beverages. Key West enjoys a delightful climate ; the lowest point to which the thermometer falls in winter is about fifty-nine de- grees, and this is considered so cold that fires are lighted. The constant breeze which blows in some degree mitigates the extreme summer heat, though, from the nature of the soil, and the few trees growing on it, the heat is terrific. I thought the place hotter than the Havana. As may be supposed, the inhabitants experience much difficulty in procuring fresh meat KEY WEST 137 and vegetables ; there is little or no pasturage on the island, and the staple articles of consumption are fish and turtle. They have dates, cocoa-nuts, and lime>, as fruits. I did not see any orange-trees. Some of the houses are prettily built, with tastefully-arranged little gardens in front, indicating a respectable class of inhabitants. 1 was told that there were some very rich people living there. '1 alone strolled along the shore on the side oppo- site to that along which I had wandered with ]Marcy in the morning, the heat keeping all the other pas- sengers in the ship quiet ; and observed, among other things, some boats coming in laden with sponges, another source of wealth. These sponges are coarse, and cannot compare at all with those from Turkey. I felt inclined for a bathe, but refrained on account of the sharks, which occasionally deprive you of a supporter, if they don't swallow you whole. I heard of a woman who was sitting on a wharf with one foot dangling in the v^ater, when a shark coolly nipped it off. I was told, however, by an intelligent serjeant with whom I had a chat at the barracks, that during the three years he had been at Key West he had only heard of one soldier who had been bitten, though the men were constantly in the habit of bathing. The ])arracks, near the military hospital, are built with verandahs on every side, and looked cool and comfortable. I re- gained my steamer at about two o'clock, at which hour we sat down to dinner, there being a full muster of passengers. After dinner I mounted to the top of one 11 \ ■ I'i- I? ; li I ! i 1 'I I ; 133 CANADA AND THE CRDIEA of the look-out towers, and enjoyed the view of the little town and surrounding islets very much. ''March Ivth. — At ahout six o'clock, on a lovely morninf^, a group of expectant passengers might ho ohserved crowded tojjether on the hows of the <fO()(l steamer Isabel, straining their eyes to discern more distinctly the details of the scenes which were opening to their view. In the distance was the steamer from New York, which we had passed when contending witli the gale of wind off the coast of Florida. She had not been following so correct a course as ourselves, and had not exactly hit the entrance of the harbour, so we were before her. As we gradually approached, the stern old ]Morro Castle, with its frowning ramparts and lighthouse, became visible, and the Spanish flag (red and yellow) was clearly seen floating above it. Frown- ing behind and above the Morro is " El Cabanos," the great fortress of Havana, built on a steep rock, scarped and inaccessible, on the side of the har])()ur, near its entrance, and opposite the city. The city itself is not seen properly till the liarbour is entered. TIk^ entrance with the old "Morro" standing like a grim sentinel on one side, and a little fort opposite, looking as defiant as its size will permit it, is so narrow, that a steamer is obliged to move very slowly through it, to avoid swamping small boats that may be passing. What a beautiful harbom* ! is everybody's exclamation, and how elegant and picturescpie those noble palms are ! Ah I there is the town : what a singular old place I There's a Spanish regiment dra^^'n up on parade, with HAVANA 139 ! I, more the band playing; what soldier-like little fellows they look, and how pretty their imiforni is I we must have a close l(jok at them when we get on shore ; Init when is that to be? that is the ([Uestion; we have a great deal of formal misery to undergo before we shall be fit or worthy to plant our feet on the territory of Her ]Most Christian Majesty. There goes the anchor, we are moored off the Alameda de Paula. ' After a general survey of the harbour, and a longing look of anticipated pleasure in the city, I began t(j be iinxious to get my permit to land, from three Spanish officials, who had been engaged in examining passports ill a little cabin, for a (|uarter of an hour or more, and whose exit was watched and wished for ])y us all most lieartily. Formal, empty-headed looking fellows they were, with their white trowsers and sallow complexions. At last the ■\\i •. ^'- of a portion at least of the expectant crowd appeal , ^e gratified. Permits are issued, and two dollars a-piece are paid for them. When the clerk of the steamer, with countenance in which annoyance strufr«"-led with fear, came to me and told me that in consec[uence of my passport not having been properly vizeed by the Spanish Consid at Savannah I could not he allowed to land I Here was a blow ; the cup dashed from my lips when just on the point of tasting it. I felt bitterly disappointed and annoyed, as I saw ])oats conung alongside of the steamer, and passenger after passenger descending into them, until the deck was cleared, and I left only with the ship's officers, besides one Spaniard, who almost cried with annoyance, being ! I f > •M ; ri' 140 CANADA AND THE CBIMEA ill in a similar position with myself. I determined to be as philosophic as possible, had my portmanteau trans- ferred to my state room, breakfasted with the captain, and afterwards proceeded to dress myself in as cool and respectable a costume as I could select from my rather limited wardrobe. I wrote a letter to our consul, en- ck jed in it J 's letter of introduction, and remained in a state of suspense, between hope, doubt, and anger, making sketches of houses, &c., from the deck of the steamer. The day was most lovely, and the harbour with its varied shipping, bounded by green hills or picturesque terraces and frowning ramparts, in itself a picture. Vessel after vessel with her white sails set, glided beautifully into the still expanse of water, and came gracefully to her moorings. The stars and stripes of the United States floated in most cases with swagger- ing splendour from their mizens. Near our steamer was a brig which the captain told me had been captured as a slaver by the English cruisers, and was now the sub- ject of litigation, her owners having positively denied that she was ever intended for the west coast of Africa : he added that the Cubans winked at the departure of slave brigs from the harbour of the Havana at night. Our commodore was apprised of this circumstance ])y an English sailor, who happened to be on board one of the brigs, and he immediately sent a frigate after them, which brought them to, boarded them, and on discover- ing the nefarious purpose for which they were intended, took all these vessels quietly in tow in a line, and brought them into the harbour of the Havana that TICKET OF LEAVE 141 evening. This decided step naturally rather diminished the popularity of the English amongst the Cu])ans. During the Lopez troubles, the Spaniards regarded old England as one of their firmest and most powerful aUies, and almost conceived that the only object she li;id in retaining a squadron in the vicinity of their coasts, was for the purpose of protecting them agr„inst the republican spirit of annexation which had so dis- agreeably developed itself in the neighbouring continent. Their eyes by this decided step were somewhat roughly opened to the true state of the case, and like a criminal who after pleasant nocturnal visions, awakes to a true consciousness of his real position, their guilty souls became suddenly and impleasantly aware that tliere were such things as truth, and the fulfilment of solemn engagements, and that there was a power which would protect and enforce both. 'My captain took compassion on me, and allowed me about half-past eleven o'clock to go ashore with a friend of his, who was to take me to the consul's, where I was to endeavour to obtain a permit ; in case of failure, I was on my parole to return to the steamer, as the captain was liable to be fined if he had suffered me to land without the usual forms having been complied with. I rejoiced at the hopes of emancipation, and cheerfully stepped into the little boat, with a white awning and graceful sail, which was to convey me to tlie much desired terra firma. INIr. Wolcott (my guide) and myself after walking along a hot sandy road for a few paces, stepped into a volante, and began to thread • ;'.. ! ! i(? iM I'l 142 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA the narrow and intricate mazes of the city of Havana. Our veliicle was singular and unique, and demands a description. Imagine a body sometliing like that of a Hansom cab, — only lighter, suspended on heavy leathern springs, attached to an axletree some distance behind it, on which revolve two enormous wdieels, six feet in diameter, drawn by a comical little horse, out' mass of harness, his tail ciirefully plaited and stored away, like a loop on one flank, and a heavy old-fashioned saddle on his back, bestridden by a large negro in enormous boots, and you will have ;i picture before you of the ordinary vehicle used in Havana, and in fact ttie only one, I may safely say, wdnch the Spaniards or natives ever employ. A kind of blind rolled up in cool weather at the top of the hood, and drawn down over tlie face during the heat of the day, protects from the rays of the sun. A volante is by no means an uncomfortable vehicle : it is a lara'e loun2:in<i' kind of a «jt>nvevance. where you may loll at ease, and enjoy the otluin etna dujiiltate of existence. ' We found on in([uiry at the consul's house that lie w\as out, but supposed to be at his son's office ; thither we accordingly repaired, and were fortunate enoui;li this time in nailing our man. ]\Ir. Crawf()rd I found a o'entlemanlv middle-a^'ed man : he had never received or heard anything of the letter I had sent ashore for him in the morning ; but on my stating my case to him, wrote a letter immediately to the secretary lO the captain general, praying him, in excellent Spanish, to give per- mission to Lieutenant George Ranken, of the * Guerpu Havniia. mauds a I that r.f ri heavy distance heels, six oi'se, one id st(uv(l fjxsliioHi'd Qe<;T() in efore yi»u 1 fact tne tiiards or ip ill cool over tlie the rays nfortahle ivevaiice, um CLlin e that lie thither enouu'h ' found a received shore for e to him, e captain give per- ' Cuerpo FKEEDOir del In2,'enieri,' to land on the soil of Cuha. 143 Armed with this important document, I aijain started forth with the oblii^-iiif,^ Wolcott, and found myself within a few minutes sitting in the pahice of the captain general with a S})anisli agent of Wcdcott's, "waiting in ])ainful suspense for the decision of the secretary. That fuiic- tionarv was husilv eni>-aLred, and niv letter could not for some time be taken up to him. Instantly upon receiving it, however, he gave orders that a free permit should he given me : and, elated with success, I hiUitened to the amiable Wolcott, and placed the scrawl of pardon in liis honest palm. I found my way to my hotel, where I found one of my American friends, and took a walk with him through the streets, visiting the Catlie- dral and the Tacon Theatre. ' The appearance of the city is very peculiar and j)icturesque ; the houses are solidly built, but seldom more than one storey high ; they have no windows, the apertures into which in northern climes, these taxed articles of luxury are fitted, are here filled with formi- dable, burglar-defying iron bars, and thick, dark, cool-lookinj; Venetian blinds, which cast a refreshinij: shade over the whole interior of the apartments. The rooms are fitted up in the most simple and unostenta- tious manner; a side-board, table, and a few chairs being generally the only furniture. ' Senoritas might be seen at ease, reclining on rocking chairs, lollin"' out the dav or thinking of their evening drive on the Paseo. Under an archway at the side of the house, or in a quadrangular courtyard attached to H I I'l iir 144 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA it, might be seen the ftimily voUmte. Negresses were smoking cigarettes or pipes, and sturdy, naked, bhick little urchins running about and basking in the sun ; not afraid of their complexions, certainly. *My friend and I found our way to the cathedral, — a cathedral consecrated by the dust of the great discoverer of America. The ashes of Columbus are deposited be- neath a mean marble slab, near the altar of the UKxst tawdry and unsubstantial Koman Catholic church I have ever seen. 'A small bas-relief, by a native of Cuba, of his head, and an inscriptioji, equally unwortliy of the man or the country which produced him, are all that assist, or rather destroy, the sensations of the traveller, when he stands over the remains of this great man. The altar, and pulpit near, are from Rome. ' The exterior of the cathedral, though possessing no architectural merits, is yet picturesque and interesting, from its venerable greyness. An old pile, over which the hand of time has passed — not to destroy, but to soften and im])rove, — is at all times a pleasing and interesting object. It is regarded with almost a re- ligious reverence, and it deserves to be so. ' To Americans, these time-worn grey walls must possess a peculiar charm, after the sharp regular lines which distinguish their rapidly produced cities and buildings, which start int(j life, and, I might almost say, topple over with the same rapidity as fairy card palaces, such as delighted our younger days. 145 CHAPTER IX. HAVANA — DE RAMOS, FALM-SUNDAY — A DINNER ^yITH THE ENGLISH CONSUL — RETUUN TO MONTREAL. ' ^r.ircli 20tll. ' rriHIS is the great day for pleasure and amusement -■- in Havana. The weather was lovely ; the air soft and delightful. I sallied out inunediately after breakfast, and made for the cathedral, whither, it was rumoured, the Captain-General, after entertaining most of the pu])lic functionaries at breakfast, was to proceed, attended by his guards. ' The cathedral was decorated with real legitimate palm leaves, plaited most tastefully and prettily, laid upon the altar, find in other conspicuous places. When I arrived, the service had evidently commenced vsome time. I stole along a side aisle, and reached a point whence I could clearly and easily discern the features of that redoubted hidalgo, the " Capitan- General.'' He wore a blue uniform, covered witli stars and orders. He had well-cut, commanding features, with a grave, gentlemanly, proud expression, and stood nearly six feet high. He appeared to pay great attention to tlie service. Almost all the Captains-General of Cuba have L ! 1 I ^^i\ 14H CANADA AND THE CRIMEA been officers of liiu^h rank in tlic Sjaiiisli army, and the present one is no exception to that rule ; Init wliere he can have distinniiislied himself to have worthily earned all his decorations, I am at a loss to conceive. The whole of the hody of the cathedral was occnpicnl hy senoritas of all aires and sizes, kneeling; on flieir niirs, and occasionally, in the intervals of fanning*, glancinjif wirh an indi»lent air of devotion, (»n their prayer-books. So many l)lack eyes I liave never seen collected before, nor so many picturesr|uely dressed women. The man- tilla is a very becominj^' head-dress, and tliere is a grace and elegance about it which has never l)een attained by the mijst perfect specimen of Parisian taste. In the art of using l)oth their eyes and their fans, the Spanish women are supposed to excel all (others. It is said that they have the power of expressing any tender feeling or sentiment by nieans of this elegajit little appendage. Tills is having the art of love ahjour fuifjers^ oids with a vengeance ! I did not neglect the favoural)le oppor- tunity afforded me ])y this collection of Spanish beauty to criticise and make reflections. I studied the mass of human heads and faces attentively ; and, though I saw numbers who were interesting and pleasing, I could not detect one face which, except by contrast, would have been called beautiful in England. This may, perhaps, be owing to the prevailing olive tint of the complexion, and consequent pallor of the cheek, depriving youtli of half its charm and freshness, or to the gradual effect of a tropical climate. I saw several alarmingly fat old ladies, worthy helpmates for Daniel Lambert. The THE CATHEDRAL ur service i^i the catlicdriil was not imposiii<;-. It was ([uitt' plain and luipretendini;" iittcr tiic ^onu'oonsiicss of I,:i Madelcint'. <•!• St. Kocli, :it I*ari> T\ If altar (it 1 M>m<4 (t Passi(»ii-W('('k ) were all in muuriiiiiL,'. I slmuld ii.Ufli have lik<'d, had it been possililc, to have rciiiaiiu'd t witness the leligions ceremonies of (Jood Friday and Easter Sunday. The fonncr of tliese days is most strictly observed. No vehiclo is permitted to traverse the streets, the shops are all closed, and 1< ni,' ])rocessioiis, in which a tii^'ure representing;- the dead body (^f our Saviour is borne, traverse the silent streets in solemn pomp. On Easter Sunday the ])eoi)le, as if suddenly relieved from a stern restraint, plunge, as the En^dish did on the Kestoration, into gaiety and pleasure. The theatres are open, balls take place, occasionally a bull-fiL;ht lends its inspiring* aid; and every one, with religious enthusiasm, devotes himself, or herself to personal enjoyment. par- ated I went into several churches; none of them ticnlarh d dl f y impressed me; all were, oi course, decor witli palm leaves. The fish-market was open for the wants of good Catholics. The fish displayed for sale are of bright tropical colours, — beautiful to look at, but, I ])elieve, bad eating. In fact, with the exception of fruits, Havana is not very satisfactorily supplied with provisions. Meat very poor ; chickens as tough as shoe- leather. ' I dined with some friends at three, and at five started out in an open carriage, drawn by two liorses, for our great evening drive. The Paseo was crowded ; L 2 I I 1 ' 148 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ( ■ tlie voliuiti's almost toiicli«;(l each other. At ciicli cud of th(i lon<jj avemio, and at the turns, were little lan- cers on horseback, who took care that there was no joekcyings or impropriety at the corners. 'Tlie ladies, in low dresses, with fans (^q-accful^ly wav- ing, occupied the vehicles, "at ease reclining/' ' We traversed the whok; length of the Paseo several times, and after admiring the scene, and criticising the varictus groups presented, like tdhhaux rirtins, to our eyes, found ourselves in a few minutes crossing a draw- bridge over a military ditch, and just entering the Paseo d'Vsabel Segunda — the Great Drive. This drive is a broad roail, planted on each side wuth elegant palm- trees, and running parallel to the fortifications of the town. Venerable, picturesque-looking old bastions, which it would be a shame, on account of the facility of the exploit, to breach. In this "Paseo*" is the "Theatre del Tacon," of which the "Habeneros"' are extremely proud, and which they show to strangers with the exultant superiority of conscious excelleuce. It is certainly a pretty house, the interior fitted up with great taste, lightness, and elegance. In size it must be inferior to our opera-house at Covent-garden. There were no performances going on while I was there (Passion- week), but the theatre was to be opened on Easter Sunday. A nigger showed us the building, and took us to a lofty point, from whence he intended that we should look, not at the fine view of the city spread out at our feet, and l)athed in rich liglit, but at the mysterious ropes and pulleys which regulated and Tin; I'ASEo 141) produced tlic iiiiraculous stfinc-cfTcfts of riijiidfippcMrnnci' and disapuc'iraiice witli which (»ur eyes arc so especially dcli^ht((l ill )>atitoiiiiine. 'i'lierc were all kinds (tf dusty and tawdiy staLjt'-Hiiery and ])ropcrlics heape(l pro- niiscuonsly foi^ethcr, anionLf which a very dusty and mild hroun hear was ]»roniiiiejit. ()ur L;uide wmle nn the wall the nnnd)er of people the theatre would liold, and furnished us with other statistics, which our har- harous ignorance alune prevented our properly aj)pre- ciating. 'After this inspection of the theatre, and a deliLrhtful view of the city from an elevated window, we hailed a volante, and merely saviuLT " Pnseo " to our ni'^'-'cr horse- ni.'in, threw ourselves buck and assumed a pleasing and indifferent expression, us if we had been natives of the city, and u drive in a volante was our custom alwayr, of an afternoon. The weather seemed rather inclined to he showerv, so the "dear little creatures" did n(jt show themselves in such numbers as we hud hoped, and as we were fully prepared to admire. We, however, saw a good many. Low dresses, l)are arms, and mantillas, certainly look odd at first : and what is still more remark- able, the low dresses, l)are arms, and mantillas do n(»t endeavour, or very rarely so, to heighten their charms by contrast with the sombre black coats of the worse portion of the community. The ladies were almost invariably alone; the gentlemen gazed on them with respectful admiration from beneath the palm-trees. "The Paseo," or regular evening drive, is of mme extent. After traversing the main avenue, the volantes skirt the I ! ! |ihte: <| 150 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA edge of an inclosnre sacred to IjuU-fights, and follow a road almost at rifjlit ani'les to the miiin ••no, leadin<; througli trees and gardens adorned with the magnificent vegetation of the tropics. From several points very pretty peeps of the city, and surrounding country are obtainable, and a view to please horrormongers of the Bmall castle where Lopez and his fellow-countrymen were irarrotted, is caufdit from one of the avenues near the town. Statues adorn '^the Paseo"' at several points. That of Isabel in the principal road is of bronze, and represents the queen as an insignificant, pug-nosed, little dwarf, wlio looks in that vast space mor ? like the statue of an infant that had lost its way, than that of tlie ruler of Spain and the Cubas. * We enjoyed our drive exceedingly : I shall never forget the state of exuberant si3irits I was in from the excitement, and novelty of the position in which I found myself. Here I was, as it were, suddenly dropped in the midst of a strange land, among people speaking a strange language, and of an aspect perfectly different from any I had before encountered : then the richness, singularity, and beauty of the tropical vegetation, the eastern effect of the elegant palm-trees bathed in sun- shine, the associations of the old glories of Columbus and of Spain; these and a thousand other thoughts and images started up, and occupied, and exhilarated my mind. What a contrast do the formal, silly, pigmies of the present day in Cuba, present to their great ancestors I They retain, like the fallen ( rreeks, their pride, prejudices, and religion, but nothing or little else. U- :i SrANISH MAREIAGES 1:1 ' Their women ret.'iiii the eyes of their ancestors, and tlieir rich and beautiful black hair; but they are burnt up by a scorching tropical sini, and ij^et flit from eatinj; and laziness in their premature old a^•e. t saw one stout old woman at the catiiedral, enuai^ed at her devotions, whose arm would have made a leg for a man of six feet high. * Both sexes marry at a very early age. 'A young fellow who shared my room with me, and who had acquired a smattering of t_^>e English language by a residence in the States, told me, with e\ident satis- faction at the astonishment his disclosure produced, that liis father had married at fourteen and his mother at twelve, that after two years their union was blessed, and that his mother had died at the age of forty- two, after having presented her husband with twelve children. ' There is a great deal of formality in Spanish society, and tlie Spaniards do not appear inclined to amalgamate with foreigners. I was told at the English consul's, by his daughter, that even if you come to the Havana armed with the best letters of introduction to the best Spanish society, the probability is that you will merely be honoured by a visit from the party to whom your letter may be addressed; told impressively that his house, and all that he possesses, is at your service, and then have your existence most flatteringly ignored. I am inclined to think that this picture may be exagge- rated, and am pretty certain that the same state of things does not at all events exist in the country; the i I 'I 152 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA j ■ ; rich planters, like all other groat landed proprietors, are g'onerally I fancy hospitable, kind, and generous, and the arrival of a stranger is considced an agreeable event. After a very pleasant and lively drive, I re- turned to my hotel, drank tea, and dressed in evening costume to pay my respects to his excellency the English consul. I was shown up a flight of stone, uncarpetted steps, and found mine host deep in a rubber, sitting with three other gentlemen in a hall outside his drawing-room, and dressed in a delightfully cool, refreshing white uniform. He received me very kindly, and introduced me to his wife and daughter. His wife was a very pretty woman. Several other ladies, in evening dress, called to pay their morninr/ visits, and a good many Spaniards, who jiaid a formal visit of two or three minutes, and retired after a couple of compli- mentary speeches, and a casual remark on some topic, corresponding, I suppose, to the v:eather in England. Crawford's drawing-room was paved with black and white marble, forming a ter^selated pavement. There was little or no furniture ; and, in ftict, the principal ornaments were some verv rich and beautiful flowers, which being alone, as it were, in their glory, without damask and gold to vie with them, shone pure and con- spicuous. Everything looked cool and airy : furniture in this hot climate would be too oppressive. I was asked if I could play whist, and replying in the affirma- tive, was immediately booked for a series of rubbers. Tea interrupted our game. I sat next to a fine and pretty woman, a sister of Mrs. Crawford's, who had passed 1*1' DINNER AT THE ENGLISH CONSUL'S 153 several years in Germany : she must have been brouo;ht up, however, in Cuba, as she strongly objected to the European fashion of wearing bonnets. After tea, iced champagne and fruit were handed round. I thought tlie champagne an elegant and good idea. After one more rubber, I managed to escape from thi; whist-table, and have a chat with jNliss Crawford and aer brother ; listening also to the singing of some American ladies. The Spanish country-dance followed the music, and I was a pleased spectator of its gracefulness. At half- past eleven 1 took my leave: and then, as I descended the stairs, thought for the first time that I had to find my way to my hotel the best way I coidd, unless E bothered Crawford to procure a volante for me. I had a general notion of the geography of the city, and of the bearings of its streets, and I felt pretty certain that, if I could manage to strike +he harbour, I should soon find myself on ground made familiar by my morning's wanderings. * I accordingly struck off in a straight line. There was a beautiful, clear moon and a star-spangled sky to guide me, and I felt confident that I should soon manatje to reach home. While walking down a narrow, straight street, I perceived a figure^ wath a long pike in its hand, leaning against a w\all, with a lantern at its feet : it proved to be a watchman, guarding the slum- bering city. 'Before Tacon's time, Havana was a most unsafe city, and the scene of many robl)eries and midnight assaults. Under his firm and able rule, a proper guard was organ- \ ' \ (■ 1 ; ( . ' ii I I .1: I' I » - t 154 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ised for the protection of the city, and it is now con- sidered as safe as any hirge city in America. I was rejoiced l)y the sight of the calm water of the harbour. After a few minutes' walk, got upon some well-known ground, and soon found my way home. My bedroom was at the top of the hotel, and I was told in the morn- ing that the house was too crowded to admit of my enjopng an apartment to myself, so that it was with mingled feelings of doubt and curiosity that I entered my apartment. Two large beds, with mos([uito-curtains well drawn down, and concealing all that iiiiglit be in or on tliem, greeted my eye on my entrance. Perhaps they were both occupied. I made a cursory inspecticju <jf the apartment, and perceived a pair of foreign boots and some chjthes in the vicinity of one of the mysterious couches, and nothing of the same character near the other. I lifted the curtain, and, to my great delight, found the bed unoccupied. Undressed speedily, and popped into it, wondering what sort of a fellow the owner of the l)Oots might be, and carefully placing my waistcoat, with my little property in it, under my pil- low. Slept pretty well. Quite a luxury to be ashore agam. ^March'Ilst. — The Spaniard with whom I was doubled up, in answer to several intpdries I made respecting the sugar trade and sugar plantations, told me that, at the opposite side of tlie harbour, I should see a great sugar store, and possibly get some information as to the pro- bability of seeing a phmtation in the neighbourhood of Havana. Accordingly, armed with a Spanish direction AN EXTORTIONATE BOATMAN 1j5 worded thus, "A Regla Establecimieiitos y Aliuacen y de Azucar," I walked to tlie ]iar})()ur, passing ou my way the square opposite the Captaiii-Geiierars, wliere several companies of a regiment were undergoing an inspect ion, and, hailing a little boat with a white awning, threw myself in it, pronounced the words " a Kegla"' with the nearest approach to the air of a native I could assume, and sank into the back seat. The harbour at this early hour looked bright and beautiful ; the air on the water was soothing and delightful. I gazed round me on the charming landscape and clear sky with a feel- ing of enjoyment I hope worthy of the most pleasant and agreeable portion of a spring day in the tropics. My boatman, when we got " a Ivegia," wanted to clieat me, seeing that I was a stranger and an Engl isln nan, and probably thinking that several ejaculations of his in praise of tlte "Inglesi" while crossing the liarbour would have softened my heart, and opened the palm (»f generosity. Nothing, hcnvever, have I greater dislike to than being cheated ; and, therefore, after aj)i)ealing to one or two bystanders, and endeavouring, in inferior French, to explain the state of the case, and gathering, from their gestures and manner, that I was in the right, I gave my friend half what he asked, and walked off. ' I was destined to be disappointed with the " Esta- blecimieuto de Azucar."' I found nothing Itut some spacious stores, in which were piled up innumerable casks of sugar and molasses, and several vessels lying off the wharves lading. Stalwart niggers, almost nude, were working hard at moving casks, and a few formal- 156 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA I'lokiiin' Spanish superintendents were j:^'azin;L>- on their efforts witli a stupefied air. To one of these I appealed, and endeavoured, in French, to make him comprehend that I particularly wished to see a sugar estate, and that I could only spare a few hours to see one in. He said somethin;^' about meeting me at Regla during the after- noon, or appointing some one else to do so, I do not now quite recollect which. I can only remember that his answers were unsatisfactory, and that I abandoned the scheme. I wandered on the shores of the harbour, and endeavoured to reach the citadel of La Cabanos, but found a marsh intervening, the distance farther than I had anticipated, and the sun gradually moimting liigher in the heavens, and increasing in ferocity. I looked out in vain for l)oats, and w\andered on, begin- ning to feel very hot and rather tired, when I crossed a railway line, and immediately began following it to- wards the shore, guided by the advice of an old cottager, who miiucidousJi/ understood a word or two of English, and who, pointing to the line, emphatically told me to "P'ollow him." I found the cars, drawn by jive or six Qnideii, had just arrived, and, following the passengers, was soon on board a steam-ferrv, which took me over the harbour in a few minutes, and for a small sum. It landea its passengers in a part of the city I was not altogether acquainted with, and my morning's walk was lengthened by my again losing my way, and wandering through a labyrinth of narrow streets ; I was quite ready for my light claret, breakfast, and cigar, after all this hot work. ]My wanderings had led me through the LAST ETENING IN CUBA i:.: " Almedta de Paula," a fine broad walk, planted with trees, and close to the harbour. 'The Habaneras very sensibly make the streets of the body of their town, where business is performed, nar- row, in order to be eool and shadv, and their evcniiiLj drives, which are not used till the sun's rays are beconi- iug- horizontal, broad and spacious. I made my j)ur- chases of eij^ars, fans, and preserves, to-day, and eallfd on the consul to recpiest him to advance me some money, as my Charleston misfortune had reduced my finances so considerably that I had no money to get back ^v^th, or scarcely any after paying my fare l)y the steamer. He told me he should be most happy to ad- vance whatever I wanted, and to call at his office again at two o'clock ; he was engaged in some law business with regard to a brig seized as a slaver, whose owners positively asserted she was merely meant for the sugar trade. Crawford was not at his office at two when I called; and in the evening, when I took ^Nlarey to in- troduce to him, I learned that the whole family had gone into the country. I should have been in a fix if .'\lar(?y had not kindly accepted my draft on Cox and Co. for £20, and paid me that sum. *My last evening in Cuba was delightful. The moon shone brightly on the city, and the music of the IkuuI had a soothing and almost melancholy effect. I felt sorry to be obliged to hurry from the i)lace; it liad a kind of fascination about it., and, as Willis sav'^, pos- sessed the rare merit of "just enough amusement aii'l ex- citement to prevent citaai, without producing fatigue."' ;, i I Tim, ;' , 158 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA It is ipiitc ii contrast in tliis respect to London, Paris, or iiijy of those ^-reat j^ay places during the bustle and ex- citement of tlieir seasons. ' Miii'cJi 22iul.. — Our steamer got under weigh at half-past six. I had Ijccn up at five, and had managed to <^ct my last cup of coffee at "The Imperial," where they ceitainly make it worthy of an empei'or, and to l)uy some cigarettes. The Spaniard, wlio had been doubled up with nie on shore, was my companion on th(^ voyage. He was very ill, and almost did for me the next mornino- : the motion of the vessel, bad as it is, is nothing to the spectacle of the misery of others on board. T, however, escaped illness on ])oth my vovasres. We had a very violent thunder-storm on the first night after leaving the Havana, and got to Charleston, after a quick run, on Friday morning. The vovau'e was without incident. We were out of sight, of land, and in the centre of the Gulf Stream all the time. W(^ saw several flving-fish scudding alon<>- and risini; very prettily from the water, but did not encoimter the sea-serpent, or any other redoubtable *' monster of the deep." I made the acquaintance on my passage of two Oxford men, who seemed very good fellows. They had l)een through jNIexico and the greater part of the Western States; they gave glowing descriptions of jNIexican scenery, but drew a melancholy picture of the degraded, miserable state of the ]Mexicans them- selves. Every kind of vice, scarcely credible, prevail among them. I got my cigars and preserves passed through the Customs House after paying a heavy RETURN TO MONTREAL 159 Paris, or and cx- veigh at iiianag't'd ,""' where ', and to ad been mion on I for nio )ad as it )f others l)oth my ;torm on (1 got to The sight of the time, id risin^jf iinter the er of the TO of two They had t of the Dtions oi icture of us theni- prevail passed a heavy 1^- duty of forty per cent. As it was Good Friday I went to cliureh. ' S;iw Thaekeray and ('n»\vo again, and ealh'd on tlie fornior and gave liini a descrij)tion <tf my trip to Cui)a. ' Mitrcli 2Hfh. — Up early on deck to see the entrance to the harbour of New "i'ork. Morning fine, ('(»l(b (dear, and frosty — rpiite a contrast to the weather I liad a few (h\ys before been enjoying. Tlio entrance to tJio liar})our of New York is not oidy beautiful, but strong: two forts opposite one anotlier, Ijuilt according t(» the latest principles of art, stand like grim sentinrls gtmrd- ing it ; a sort of modernised imitation of tlie castles on each side of the entrance to the harbour of Havana. T went to the Clarendon at New York, a <jind hotel, and a great contrast to the noisy, vast, Metro{)olitan. I stayed two or three days at New York, and returnc'd to ^lontreal rid Hudson liiver Railway, sleeping again at Rouse's Point, and recrossing the St. Lawrence in a half frozen and rather dangerous state on the 2nd of April, after au absence of about seven weeks from Montreab ' I found everything at ^Montreal on my return look- ing miserable. The streets almost impassable from lialf melted snow ; the air raw^, damp, and chilly; every (tne laid up with influenza and bad spiiits. ' The bustle and excitement of my journey had dissi- pated the uloom I laboured under on startini>- almost entirelv ; but after bein'>- back several davs, 1 foimd the I i ) I > ., 1(30 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA blue devils gradually beginning to exert their influence. I had a touch of ague and a sore throat, and found myself affected by the trying changes of weather, like every one else, till the horrible snow disappeared, and the sun and nature began to exert their revivifying influence. lil CHAPTER X. Ql'EBEC — GxiVAZZI RIOTS — KUMOrKS OF WAR. 'Juue llth, l^on. ' /QUEBEC, ^Montreal, and, in fact, the whole country Mt* have been enlivened in a manner whiL-h wo neither anticipated nor are able to appreciate. leather Cfavazzi has appeared like a firebrand among us, and, in fact, set the whole population by the ears. Protestants a<;-ainst Roman Catholics, and both ag'ainst the soldiery. There has been a riot at Quebec, happily unaccom- panied by loss of life. In ^lontreal, however, the military have fired upon the people, and killed, and wounded twenty-six of them. Here an attempt was made by an armed mob of wild Irishmen to murder Gavazzi while delivering his lecture. Gavazzi behaved in the most gallant manner ; did not throw away a single blow, but felled his assailants as they successively endeavoured to clamber into the pulpit, in a mnnner which would have excited the admiration of the vene- rable Ben Caunt. He contemplated the tumultuous assembl}'^ with a smile of contempt, and declared, if al- lowed a fair field and a wall to lean against, he would M ! .r I i i. \ 10-2 CANADA AND THE miMrA tiLjIlt tlif wlmlr |(it (it'thfiii. They succ'ocdt'd, lifter M tiiiio. ill liiirliiiLT liiiii tVdiii the pulpit, aiid he piu'iicd, Cor- tiiiiiitt'Iy for himself, on soiiu; cushiuns wiiich hinl Imcu removed from a ptw, or his skull would iiifdlihly liave l)eeu fractured. ' When pursued hy the molt into a vaidt lieneath tlir eliurcli, ho merely eoolly stepped one ]>ace to his ri^iit. and the moh rushinij past him, groped with murderous hands in vain in the (hukness. The French ('ana<lians liave taken no part in these oiitrai^cs ; indeed, at ^lon- treal, they expressed their deep horror at the eondnct of these Irish fanatics. ' Tlie 2()th Regiment who have been at ^Montreal, and excited such violent feeling's l)y firing on a p<'aceful congregation retiilng from church, have only just arrived in the country. How or by whom the order to fire could have been given remains a mystery. Some of the most peaceful and innoc(>nt inhabitants have fallen victims to it. (lavazzi, indeed, has appeared like a sj)irit of evil in this country. By attacking the tenets of the Koman Catholic faith in an insulting, scornful, and (inchi'istliLn manner, he has excited to the utmost the religious animositv and hatred of the Irish, and the great mass of the inhabitants of the Lower ])rovinces: and has revived that bitter feeling of religious enmitv, which it has l)een the policy of Government t(j soften and repress, and which will be a source of weakness and disunion fnjm which, I fear, the colony will not very soon recover. Tlie whole business is a painful one, and in everv wav to be regretted.' liUMOUnS OF WAIl Ifj.T I tlllU', il, foj- il been ["allibly itli the rdcrous uadiaiis it Moii- coiuUu't eal, and p<,'aceful Illy just le order Some s have u'ed like le tenets scornful, utmost and till.' ovincc'S : enmity, o soften ,veaknes> will not painful [Notliin;;' of i^eiieral iuferest is nn'iitionetl either in my l)rotherV Icftris or j<»urnal until February ls.'>4, wlien news of an impending,' war with l\ii-;sia reached Cana(hi. -KniToi!.] ' Kepoits liave readied us lu-re of wars and ruinoiii.-; of wars, and I suppose Knuiaml will shortly be en^jan'cd in the terrible thoiij^h i,dorioiis struLri,de, into wideh, after h(j much ministeiial vacillation, she has at length entered. I should like to he ordered out to the scinie of action: l)ut as T have not been so loiio- on foreiun service as many others in Canada, I shall probably l»e kej)t out here another year, when Nicholas will have drawn in his horns, and the struj^<j;le have come to an end. 'Itmavbe ima-'incd how eai;eilv we look for news of the march of events in this ice-bound corner of the earth, where news recpiires a furtnii^ht to penetrate. Just at this crisis, all measures of ndlitary reform and reori>anization are important. The ''(vHiarterly Heview," about a year a«;o, discussed the injustice and folly of the present system of promotion in the Ordnance Corps, and pointed out its evils and discouraj^'ements. In many regiments of the service I nught have ])een a captain, or next door to it; in the Engineers, I cannot iioi)e to be one in less than ten or twelve years indeed, if the present system continue; and I shall be fortunate if I am even then. My colonel at (»>uebec was t\vent3'-three rears a s ul)alt ern ' I am leading a fpiiet life for a soldier. I generally rise at seven, and read or write for a couple of hours M !, II I I 1 I i •' 1C4 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA [I ' l)efore breakfast. (At present that period is devoted to an essay on fortification.) In the winter, when tliere is little professional work to be done, two hours generally suffice for the office. Two liour'^' ^nore in the afternoon I devote to reading history, and the rest of tlie day is given up to exercise and anuisement. Balls nnd parties interfere a great deal with my arrangements. Late hours do not suit me at all : I feel want of sleep much more than fatigue. However, Lent and its forty days «jf rest are approaching, and the restless aiitoniaton motions will cease for a while. ''April 2&h. — To-day is appointed to be kept as a fast-day throughout Great ]^ritain. I have ju.«t been to the cathedral, and listened to a powerful and eloquent sermon, preached by Dr. Adamson, in aid of the wives and children of the soldiers who have been sent to tlie vv-ar, to fio-ht the battles of their countrv, and of civili- sation. Dr. Adamson connnenced his discourse by a retrospective glance at the triumphs and progress of religion, education, and enlightenment, since the ter- mination of the last great war. ' He described the rapture and gratitude of the nations of Europe when the sword, which had spread desolation over tlie fairest countries of the earth for a quarter of a century, was at length returned to its scabbard. Man tJien became socially, morally, and politically, another being, and step l)y step peace achieved gentle and unostentatious but glorious triumphs. A rude hand, however, has shattered the beautiful fabric of victory she had reared. Peace is no raore! The sw(jrd •ntle rude ic of DR. A DAMSON S SERMON 165 again Hashes fc^rtli ; again tlie notes of wniling arc heard. Knghmd, united to a sister whose liand had long been withhehl from her, has drawn the swurd to protect the oppressed, and to cluistise tlie oppressor. After dwelling fur some time on the efforts being niado in this struggle by civilised Europe, the preacher intro- duced the important subject of his discourse. lb reminded his hearers that i^reat sacrifices were neee-- sary to accomplish great objects. ''•'The statesman devoted his time, his talents, his health, his days, his nights, to the service (d' his coun- try. Who can justly appreciate his labours, his anxieties, his noble abneiration of self, the ma<nutude of his sacri- fices and his services ? * " But the women of England, — the wives, thf mothers, tiie sisters of soldiers, — what did iJu'n con- tribute to the war ? One gave the father of her children ; another her dear son, the pride of her old age; a third a brother; a fourth, perhaps, one who stood in a dearer relation still, whose loss would crush her young heart, make life a bhmk to her, and leave her the sorrow, too deep for utterance, of unweddcd widowhood. * " And shall we offer them nothing in return ? Shall we refuse our svmpathv and assistance in their desola- tion and distress?" ' [Another considerable break occurs here in the journ.al, and nothing vorthy of notice is recorded until the summer, when cholera of extreme severity I f ! I . t 1 ; ^ i: 166 CANADA AND THE CEDIEA visited Quebec. ]My brotlier exerted liiiiiself to miti- gate, as far as lay in his power, tlic sufffriiig of the unfortunate poor. in the Lower Town : and it is pleasant to reflect, tliat his last acts in Canada were tliose of unostentatious charity. — Editor.] ' Quebec, .Tilly I'Oih, 18o4. ' Ninety-four degrees in the sliade. We are in the heart of our terrific summer. We have had the tliermometer up to OG" in the shade, and no rain for about a fortniijht. Tlie cholera is prevalent in tlie dirty, Inidly ventilated streets of the Lower Town, where many sailors, emi- grants, c^c, have fallen victims to it. *The L'pper Town where I live has as yet in a great measure been spared ; but every one feels the necessity of great prudence and caution. * As a means of enlightening the igiiorant popidation, who were ri.arked out from their habits uf life, and the locality in which they resided, as the most probable victims of the disease, I have liad a lOOO copies of the Government regulations for the prevention cf cholera, issued in England in 1847, printed and circu- lated, distinguishing the more important paragraphs by the employment of larger type. I have also strongly advocated, in several letters to the (Quebec papers, the necessity of the formation of a society for the relief and assistance of distressed emigrants at Quebec. My obser- vations have been favourably received and commented upon, and I have it now in contemplation to a])peal to the clergy of Quebec, to afford their countenance and CHOLERA AT QUEBEC ig: support to my design, and to solicit the assistance of the Coh)nial Government. ' A central board of health has been established at Quebec, of which several of my friends here wish me to be elected a member. The nomination wovdd be an honour, but involve at the saine time great respon- sibility and some risk and trouble. The latter however, I woidd, I hope, willingly encounter if I could do any iTOod. The streets are as deserted during this intense heat as on the wettest day. 'If you can possibly do it, and have any regard fjr your own health, you will keep at home till half-past six in the evening, and then only take a ([uiet drive. One of our thermometers, placed in flui sun the other day indicated, I am told, a temperature of 130°.' li I ?'i I ! If.S CANADA AND THE CRIMEA CHAPTER XL BOUND FOR THE CRIMEA ARRIVAL AT .^EBASTOrOL. ' August I800. 'rpiTE scene cluuiges ngaiii. The uncertainty of u J- soldier's life could not be better illustrated tliau by my last entry. However I have myself to thank for it. ffearinsj that the number of En<>-ineers 1)efore Sebastopol was nuieh reduced, I felt impelled to volunteer mv services for the Crimea, and to suui»(.'st that an officer, who might have been invalided, shouM be sent to Fort (jreorge to supply my place. ' I hardly expected so sudden an answer as I re- ceived. A few days after my letter to Colonel Matson, and while at Inverness, on my way to Dingwall in Ross-shiri', whither I was ordered on some special duty. I suddenly had a letter put into my hands from the Ordnance Office, informing me that the Inspector- General had approved of my being employed in the Crimea, and that I was to proceed at once to London, to embark as soon as my passage should have been provided for me. I felt mixed sensations of satisfac- tion and regret. I felt sorry, after getting perfectly I DEPAIITUUE FROM ENGLAND 169 settled, niifl having found several pleasant acquaintances, to be suddenly ordered off at a moment's notice, — and glad at the opportunity of witnessing some of the great and stirring scenes which were so completely absorliing the attention of Europe. I endeavoured to assume cheerfulness, though my heart was rather anxious and heavv, not knowing what the terrors of a l)attle-tield or actual hostilities might he. I rather mistrusted my own powers, and could only pray (rod that I migl:t have strength and courage to perform Uiv duty. I liad little tinu; allowed for preparation. I was obliged to procure the various articles of my kit with railway speed, and was kept continually ti'ivelling between Hertfordshire, anil London. ]My horse aiid servant were shipped off from Southampton in the " Hima- lava.*' I started, after takinff leave of mv relatives at Brighton and Dover, with Captain Nicholson, R.E., overland for the Crimea, via Paris and ^Marseilles. Nicholson's brother travelled with us, and w(^ had a very pleasant journey to Paris, and enji^yed ourselves a ii'reat deal the dav after oiu' arrival, in lionising and visitinfj the Parisian Industrial Exhibition. 'On Sunday, August 3rd, we left Paris: travelled all dav and all ni^'ht, and arrived at ^Marseilles on a hot Monday morning, at 8 or 9 a.m. We got our tickets for the steamer, and our lu'><>a!i-e arraiiLred, break- fasted, strolled about, and made purchases to complete our kit. Marseilles is a large, rich, dirty, connnercial place ; its streets smell abominably. We had no time, or were too tired, to make a minute inspection of ji-M I : 170 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA II it. At r.M. we started in the French mail steamer " Simois " for Constantinople. Tlie passengers were nut nnmerons ; but we liad 400 or .lOO French soldiers on deck, l)el(>n_i>ing- principally to a regiment of Chasscm-s de Vincennes. As far Jis ]Messina, in Sicily, we had lovely weather, — a clear blue sky, and an intense ultramarine sea, — rather lujt, but on the whole enjoy- able. 'The Chasseurs de Vincennes slept like sheep on deck; but sang, and made themselves merry with their hardships. Some of them are very fine, handsome fellows, with the soft blue eyes and dark eyelashes so popular among' sentimental young ladies ; and ] am <[inte sure, as their manners are really good, that, if well washed and dressed, they would cut respect- able figures in an English ball-room. ' At ]\lessina w^e landed to look at some chiu'ch'-'s. It is a very finely situated city, but its inhabitants appear a dirty, degraded race. Tlie place itself was the most filthy I had ever seen, and the stench in some of the streets insufferable. We took a short drive, which had the effect of partially broiling us, and were not sorrv to be again on board, and under weigh. *We touched at the Pirams, drove over a hot, dusty road to Athens, climbed up the Acropolis, did the ruins in twenty minutes or so, and returned to our steamer as fast as om' wretched little steed would draw us. The remainder of our voyage was without incident. The weather was hot, the cabins badly ventilated, k I CONSTANTIXOPLE 171 steainor ^'ere in»t ditn-s oil bassciirs we liad iiitriise 3 C'lijoy- lierp on itli tli.ir iiulsoine 'Veluslies ; and I od, til at, respect - 'hurches. labitants self was eneli in a sliort lin<^' us, d under ot, dustv he ruins steamer draw u>. incident, ■ntilated, ;ind the Chasseurs d<' Vincennes anvtliine- hut mUlr- jJcurs. ' Wf reaclied ConstantinopU' on 31<>nday aftcrnnun, landed part of our han'ii^ai^e, and witlk diflHculty clinihrd the steep liill to Messiris's J[oteh Constantinople from the water (Hd not disappoint nie. "NVIien exaniiiied I found it the dirtiest phice I was ever in, and that most of tlie oreat lions were exaijfi^erations, and looked hotter on paper ihan in reality. — AllonTs di-awin^s are very faithful. We found at .Alessiris's, Colonel (iordon, K.K., who had distinL;uished himself so much, and been wounded before JSebastopol, on his way home for the benelit of his health. He seemed to think we siiould have to winter in the Crimea. 'The delu<;e which poured on C(.)nstantinople on tlie (lay after our arrival, [ thiidv I shall never forget. We landed our heavy bao-gage in the midst of it. The streets resembled Seoteh mountain water-courses; and how our porters, with their heavy loads, c(»ntrived to struggle up the almost perpendicuhir hill through the midst of it, I know not. The thing, liowever, was at'Cumplished. The rain lasted all day, and we c(juld do httle or nothing. 'Next morning Nicholson and ^v,t, df went over in a caique (with Mure of the 42nd, aide-de-camp to (reneral ^Earkham) to Scutari, to report ourselves t(j Lord William Paulett (commanding there), and got passages on to the Crimea. We were told we were all to proceed next day at 2 p.m., in the " I^randon " screw transport (13D). We passed the afternoon iu seeing 172 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA the iiHis(|ii('S of 8t. S()j)lii;i jiiid Aclmu't, ami otlitT lioiis. With the former I was j^reatly struck, Init a little disappointed (iinaginatioii is so invariably stronger tlian reality). On the morning of our departure I ma(h' several pm'chases of saddle-l)ags, Turkish mat- ting, ^.e., in the streets and great 1)azaar, ])ee])e(l in a Turkish l)ath, and peramljuhited the streets on ii little horse for several hours. Scratehley, and myself, were almost late for our steamer. We found she was a very slow craft, and had to coal on the coast, whicli might detain her for several days. As we had l»eeii puri»osely sent overland to reach our destination a> soon as ))ossil)]e, the delay wa^ annovini!" and vexation.-. We had been put to great troubh.- and expense, shifted our baggage seven or eight times, and after all, fnuiul that we should have readied our destination bv comiD;: direct, in nearly or ([uite as short a tinie. 'We remained two days at Kosloo, or thereabout, on the coast of Turkey in Asia, to coal. A 3Ir. l^arclay, CE. has charge of the mines. The coast and sur- rounding hills are extremely rich in coal, wdiich bursts forth, or crops out on the cliffs in patches. The coal is very inferior in quality to that of Newcastle, and docs not go half so far. The ?oaling of steamers is performed by means of boats, the coast being an iron-bound one, and water very deep near in shore. The prevalence of strong northerly winds likewise compels vessels to anchor at a greater distance from the shore than they would other- wise do. The mines are worked by about 1 700 Croatian Turks, Albanians, SiC, some of them arjued to the teeth I I Ii: = KOSLOO in 111 other k, but u : strongi'i' jiirtiire 1 :ish iiiat- L']K'il iu ;i 'ts on ;i 1(1 inyself, 1 slie was fist, wliicli liad lieeii illation a- v^'xatit•u^. se, si lifted all, ftniiiil bv coniiu'j; cabout, on |r. l^arclay, and sur- icli bursts Tlu' onal ami d(tfs performed lid one, and |e of stroni;' nclior at a uld otber- 1)0 Croatian ) tlie teetli with pistols and daj/gcrs, a picturosqup, troubh'soino set td li-ovcrn. Mr. I^arclav has l)C'cn four or five V( ars almost constantly rosident on the spot, has ac(|uir('d tli»^ Turkish language respectably, and being intrepid and energetic in character, and fond of a wild active life, discharges his arduous duties con amorr, rulinu- his inotlev subi<^cts with a rod of iron. The mines are situate about four miles from the coaling points, the coal being brought up on the l)acks of mules. When a heavy surf is running no coaling can take place, and diips are often detained for several days on this aecoiint. Tlie scenery along the coast, and in the vieinitv of Kusloo, is very beautiful and striking, consisting of hill and dale, and towering nKumtains wooded to their very .-unimits ; a most pleasing contrast to the aiid coast iif Sicily and (rreece. We enjoyed a scamper aci'oss wjiat in England would have been considered gi'ouiid impracticable for cavalry, on little Turkish ponies, which galloped like the \vind, and descended preci) tires without ever making a false step. They are sImkI with 1 plate liaving a small hole in the centre, and how they preserve their fo(ttin<' as tliev do is a marvel to Knulish- men. We irot under weigh from Kosloo on a beautiful eveuinff, and stood boldlv across the Bkick Sea for our destination. A heavy peculiar rolling moti(»n was im- [larted to the steamer by one of the Black Sea er( ss >well8. 'A)(rj. \'2fh. — We reached the entrance of the narbour of Balaklava after sunset, too late therefore to •nter, and accordingly cast anchor among a fleet of i:j CANADA ANI» THH CHIMKA m slii|ts ;m(l stcMiiuTs of ;ill kinds nioorcd mitsidp. Tli^' coast is wild, uiid very lofty and |K'r|K'iuli(;uiar. IcoiiM ciisilv iinai^iue tlir tcrrilic conscfiiu'nors of a ^julc ot Nvind to ;i fleet iincliorcd in it. The huts of the saiiatn- riuin, rec<'iitly estahlished on the hei'^hts, were alnni visihle, with a few tents of the marine eiieaiiij)iiiciir. Next inoniiiij^% ^Nlcdiday, Aui^'iist l.'itli, we lande(l to n- port ourselves and ascertain how the hiud lay. I fouih! two brother otfieers, whom I knew, at i'alaklava, througli whose assistance I obtained a pony, and rode with Cajttain Nicholson to head-(|uarters, to rep(»rt myself ti' (Jeneral .loues. Our conductor throu_L>h the mazes ot the C!un[), was an officer of my own hatch, who had led the storming' party on the iSth .lune. He li;h': escaped by a miracle. He says every one he turned tn speak to seemed to l)e shot before he could return an answer. The whole plain near Halaklava, where tlii' j^Tcat cavalry charge took place, and the hills in it vicinity, are occupied by the English cavalry, hoiv artillery, and field batteries, a most efficient and im- posiuLj force of 5000 or (iOOO men. ' The vallev of Halaklavaissurround<'d l)vwild rii<'i'«^ii hills, now in our possession, but last 3'ear occupied in force by the Cossacks. ' I'alaklava, oriL>'iiiallv a prettv Tartar village, has beeu metamorphosed into a collection of dirty, dihipidatei! tenements. Every tree, I believe (literally, with tl. exception of one clump) has been cut down. (lardeii-. vineyards, and other more ephemeral adjuncts t" beauty, of course, went at once, and now, the peaceful BALAKLAVA 173 litflc vill:i:^«> is cli:ini;'c(l into n nni<y, Imt. SiTniiiMln.;', ilirty, irrc^uliir place ( iiitcrcsfiiiL;', Imt (iisaj^n'reaUIc ), in tact, a prrffct clians (it'iiicii of (litVcrcnt nations, clotiict! in different L,'!irl»s, and jaliltcrint,' ditVcrrnt lan'4nau'<'s. 'Tlicre is, iiotwitlistandint;, imtre order ami cleanli- ness than I expected to tind. Almost every rc'^Hnient lias its slore (one of the wooden hnts) here: and the Conunissariat have erected several larL^c iron hniIdin!J'.> \v itl 1 circnlar roots. Til littl liari »onr IS ii terall' crammed with s}n"ps lyini,' side hy side with their stern toward the sh lore, and aihniralilv arranufed The neiL;h- honrlMiod of Halaklava, hefure our landini;-. was excecd- inirly pietures((ne and pretty. On leaving tlie villaLTc and proceedintf towards Sehashopol, \\e encountered )-ieh vineyards empurplinjjf the ij^romid with Muscatel ^^rape-. Sweet, secluded little tannhous( ■^ peepii ^' fhroui,di cool foliage, and nestling aniong>t orcliards and flower.-. The valley, through which our light cavalry eliarucd with such despairing bravery, was tlien covered wit!i vinevards and dotted with tree X ow not a shrr.h i- to 1 )e seen. The roots of the vines even 1 iave been grubbed up for fuel, leaving fields covered with small holes to mark wliere they have been. The valley ex- tends through bold rocky hills as far as the Tchernaya. Near Halaklava, and to the left (jf the road towards Sebastopol, tbe valley and hills are dotted with tlie tents of the English cavalry and field batteries, wiHi long lines of liorses, picketed in rows ])elnnd them. 'About a mile from Balaklava is the village of Ka- dekoi. With the exception, however, of the churclu IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) u ^ 1.0 I.I 1125 Hi 1^ - 1^ IIIIIM .. .,. IIIIM 1.8 1.25 1 1.4 ||.6 „ 6" ► V] <^ //, / 7 Photographic Scientes Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 C^ <v S. 17G CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ir and perhaps one or two Russian houses, the whole con- sists of recent fliniKy-looking nondescript wooden or iron slieds, where the names of several leading Knglish firms are posted up, and in which most of the wants of the officers of the army are supplied at a tolerably fair rate. I was introduced to General Jones, wliom I found sitting: in his hut with a r<)U<>-h sketch of the Eniilish sieu'e works before him. He said we were all very much wanted, and must get our things sent up to the front, and report ourselves ready for duty as soon as possil)le. We continued our ride to the front to see a little of the work, which the continual booming of the guns (which never cease for a minute, day or night), told us was going on. ' The country, as you approach the beleagured city, is cut up into dreary and precipitous ravines. The ground l)ecomes rocky or parched, and dusty, and not a bladi' of grass, not a shrub or tree is to be seen, '^ Rut all is rocks at random tliro\\ni, Black waves, bare cra<>s, .and banks of stone ; As if wore here denied The summer sun, the spring's sweet dew, That clothe with many a varied hue Tlie bleakest mountain side." Above all this there is a magnificent blue sky and n . glorious sun. The climate of the Crimea, as far as I have seen of it, is delicious in the autumn, and I shtaikl imagine, exceedingly healthy. About Sebastopol the ground is rocky and difficult. Elsewhere, I should fancy very rich and fertile. We saw fresh encanip- II i I FIRST VIEW OF SEBASTOPOL 177 liole con- oodeii or or Enulish 3 wants of jnibly fiiir , whom I ch of the e were all ;ent up to ity as sooa rout to see oomiug" of J or uightj, ired city, is [The gruund lot a blade one sky and n- as far as I ud I shoukl astopol the ?, I should di eucauip- nients in valleys (»r on hills to the left and right of us as we proceeded onwards towards the fruiit. An hour, or less, brought us to the head-quarters of the British Army, and in view of that cidehratt.'d mansion, depicted on every plan, and conspieuously designed in every model of the sie^e, called '" J^tn'd Kaglan's House."' A plain, one-storied little cottage holds the English Com- mander-in-Chief, his staff, and his fortunes. 'We continued our ride to Cathcart's Hill, whence we looked, for the first time, on the famous city, the cause of so much bloodshed, and misery — the scene of so much heroism, and endurance. It presented a very singular appearance. The Mahikhoff, and ]\famelon, and the Kedan, looked like mere mounds of earth frtjm the point we occupied, distant about 4()()() yards, and it was impossible to do more than form a vague notion of the defences and appearance of the town, and of our own, and the French works. Of their magnitude^ how- ever, we were able to form an idea from the wide circuit of the flashes, extending for several miles on either side of us. We could hear the whistling of the shot and shell, and occasionally a 32-pound shot flew |)ast us, and buried itself in the earth within a few vards of where we were standing. The Allied Armv, from in- formation obtained through spies and deserters, had been expecting an attack and under arms for three uighis previous to our arrival. It w\as rumoured that the Russian army, under Liprandi, had been reinforced by Ijetween 80,000 and 100,000 men. With my tele- scope I could clearly see dense columns of Russian N V ■ 178 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA t ) i i ^ I 1 i, '' ;, i -■1 ■ ''- troops drawn up on the hills on the north side of the har})oiir. * It is impossible to convey to a person at a distance, a correct notion of the appearance of our camp. In fact, one is, at first, completely bewildered at its immense extent. From the top of every hill, and through every ravine, you see nothing but long regular rows of white tents with bare spaces around them. The roads are perpetually traversed in various directions by long files of cavalry in undress uniform, taking their horses to water, — by lines of mules laden with wood or stores, — by commissariat, ammunition, and forage waggons, — by soldiers of the various armies, French, Sardinian, and English, — by Croatians, Greeks, Alba- nians, and all descriptions of ruffianly, bronzed, pic- turesque looking fellows, in various showy dresses of faded splendour. The Turks, Sardinians, the English cavalry, and field-batteries, and a division or more of the French army, occupy the valley of the Tchernaya, and cover our position from Balaclava to the right of the siege lines beyond Inkerman. ' The engineers' camp is situated close to Cathcart's Hill, and near a road which leads to the Woronzoff's ravine. It consists of several rows of huts, in which repose our men vis-a-vis to several rows of tents dedicated to the officers. Nearly the whole English army wear white covers over their caps and helmets, and are easily distinguishable by this means from the French, who go through the greatest heat without any such precaution. ! . I FIRST NIGHT IN CAMP 179 ' I met in the camp a number of men I know very well. I (lined with De ]\Ioleyns, E.E., Capt. Wolsely, 90th Kegiment, Major Camp])ell, 49tli, Assistant-En- gineer and Capt. Browne, E.E., director of the right attack. We had soup, some stew, plenty of hitter ale, and brandy and water — in fact a very fair dinner. The booming of the guns of the attack and defence was our music ; while every now and then, a whistling sound, followed almost immediately T)y a heavy plump, told us that we were within range of the enemy's guns. * ]My first night in camp was passed, I acknowledge, in a state of great apprehension. The shot kept pitch- ing close to our tents, and around us all night. I had been told of an artilleryman having been killed in his bed by one, a short time before, fifty yards beyond us ; and as I lay awake in the dark, sheltered merely by the frail canvas of my tent, and heard the roar of shot after shot, and the explosion of shells, which seemed to burst only a few yards from us, my sensations were similar, I should imagine, to those of the criminal whose head is placed under the guillotine, and who is waiting for the fatal axe to drop. Notwithstanding, however, I man- aged to compose myself to sleep for a few hours. ' The Russians managed to throw shot into our camp (at least, so we conjectured) by burying the breech of one of their guns in the earth, and firing at an angle of 45°. I was told that they had discontinued the prac- tice for several months. Our camp is one of the most advanced in the army. The Rifles and 89th Regiment are close to us, and share the delights of our nocturnal N 2 I I I .- . 1 180 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 11 ■ -i J ■ I' I. (listui'l)anco.s. Tliis long range practice lias only been going on for a few days. I must say I dislike it more tiian anything else; but I hope, with God's help, to be able to sleep as serenely in danger as in safety. ' The next day was passed in arranging my things. I found that most of the officers of my corps under canvas out here, had holes dug out for their tents. This gives more height, and enal)les a man to stand up in his tent without knocking his liejid aii^ainst the canvas. I considered myself fortunate in being able to purchase a hole in the earth, about ten feet in diameter, and two feet six inches deep, for ten shillings. Over this my tent was pitched ; my matting from Constantinople covered the irregularity of the floor, while a barrel tilled with earth supported the pide. I had several shelves put up, inserted partially into the earth ; horse rugs, matting, and India-rubber sheets placed over the bare earthen sides of the tent ; and soon found myself en- sconced in a very habitable little snuggery ; in fine weather almost as good as a, room in a house. Of course many luxuries, or what perhaps in civilised countries would be called necessaries, had to be dis- pensed with : no sheets for my bed, flannel instead of linen shirts, no chairs, and in the feeding line, no butter or milk, and ration bread and beef as a staple article of consumption, varied by the purchase of sheep, &c., all procured from Kadikoi or Balaclava, a distance of five or six miles. ' I naturally looked forward rather anxiously to my first night's duty in the trenches ; I was to go as a super- A BOMBARPMENT 181 iiiimerary to lenrn tlie ins and outs, and rjot a irenoral confused idea of our attackiiiL,^ lines, and tlie defences of the enemy, Anderson, K.E., a subaltern, rather junior to myself, was to be my conductor. I was surprised to find the whole of our attack a])pear so clear, especially the approaches on the liedan, carried along the crest of a hill. * The Redan itself is but a short distance off, and we seemed to be creeping close up to it. The noise of the cjuns and mortars, and the roaring and whistlinir of the messengers of death, as they winged their way througli the air, was bewildering enough. A bondjardment was i^oing on durinix mv first niu'lit in the trenches, and the casualties were rather numerous. Every projectile ap- peared to have a sound pecidiar to itself, and oars different to the enemy's. Our thirteen-inch shells were really pretty objects at night, ascending majestically, with a rolling motion, accompanied by a singing sound, to their highest point, and descending witli the same grace and precision into the enemy's works. Their fall was followed immediately by a bright flash, caused by the explosion of the shell on striking the earth. Our shells fired from guns, and our round shot, made a most terrific rushing noise. Grape flew past with a rushing whistle ; minie bidlets whizzed by with a gentle sing- ing sound, like a loud musquito buzz ; the fi-agments of shell, with an irregular half whistling, half roaring noise, very disagreeable in character. A shell bursts with a loud crash. Our fuzes are nuich better than the Russians'. The enemy's shells continually burst in 182 CANADA AND THE CimiEA i the air, ])efore striking the ground, tlieir fragments descending vertically and with great force. *The nigh^ duty in the trenches is extremely fixtiguing. The walking is execrable. It is necessary, in addition to avoiding stones and other obstacles, to step clear of men asleep, or half r^sleep, lying all along the trenches. The working parties ])reak off their work at a])oiit 2 A.M. ; and from 2 to 5 the exhausted Engineer may consecrate to repose, if he can manage to sle(^p in a wretched little hut but a few feet square, crowded with three or four others, with a sand-bag for a l)e(l, and fleas and mice for companions. Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, it must be remembered that this hut was a place of safety, to which ncj missile (except perhaps, by an extraordinary chance, a splinter of a shell) could penetrate. * The trenches of the Eno-lish right attack are about five miles in extent, full of zigzags, batteries, and parallels ; they are surrounded by other trenches and batteries which, from the broken and curious character of the ground, it is at first difficult to determine as friendly or hostile. ' Directions were given by my companion to the various working parties, superintended by sappers, as to the duties they were to perform during the night. Most of them were working within rifle range of the Redan, and were consequently exposed to great danger, should the enemy open a heavy fire. (On one occasion we lost five or six men in planting three or four gabions as a continuation of the parallel or approach.) When AN ANTICIPATED ATTACK 183 aguients itiguing. additioii clear of reiiclie.s. it about eer may M^p in ii ded with )ed, and ding all this hut perhaps, ill) could u'e about cies, and ches and character rmine as lC various IS to the t. Most e Redan, ;r, should in we lost lions as a When ) arrived in the vicinity of the Kedan, it was especially necessary to keep as much as possible under cover, as the Redan lowered upon us at a distance of 200 yards. The Quarries are more extensive and important than I supposed when in England. Their possession, with that of the adjoining Mamelon by the French, I consider of immense importance. It is now almost impossible for the Russians to make effective sorties, as they used to do, on our line ; and the possession of the ^Nlamelon by the French protects most effectively our advanced trenches from falling into the hands of the enemy, as they are commanded by it. I remained nearly all night in the Quarries. ' A sortie was expected at head-quarters, and a tele- cjram sent down to the General commanding in the trenches to be prepared for it. Tlie guard of the advanced trenches consisted of the Guards and High- land Brigade, so that the Russians would have met with a warm reception had they made the attempt. Large masses of troops had been, during several days, observed marching from Sebastopol into the Redan; and as a very large army is in the neighbourhood, aiid the siege is approaching a critical period, it wi; 1 1> ought not un- likely that a desperate attack might be made to impede its progress. The left face of the Redan had been much smashed and battered by our fire of the two pre- ceding days, and orders were given to preserve a fire of musketry on it the whole night, to prevent the enemy from repairing damages. * Suddenly the Russians opened upon us with the t; 1 1 I ! ! I r , /I; i, i It I 184 CANADA AND THE fRIMKA j, utmost violence; evorv one in cninp lliou^'ht from the cxtrciiit' licavincss luid rapidity of the fire that a sitrtie was ,L;oiii:; on. Croiifiu'd under tlic parapets, our mm remained witli tlioir arms in tlieir iiaiids, [n'epared for any event. Tlie L;rape Avliistlcd past us and over our heads like liail. We eouhl sec tlie shells win^'in^ their destructive course ahove us, wiiilst every now and then one of them would phimp down in our vicinity. ' When this '• tire of hell " had a little slackened, my confrere and myself started to visit the workinLi; parties, and prevent their al)an(h>nin;4' their work. We were exposed to a jjfreat deal of dani^er in doinjjj this; hnt it is a uKJst necessary duty, as our fellows, though as brave as lions in the held, certainly have a dread of working imder fire. The Sappers are noble fellows, and in- valuable men in a sie^-e. One private has often a party of 50 or loo line soldiers to direct. The other ni<dit two of them distinguished themselves }»v carrvinjj out the body of a poor fellow killed by a shell, in our ad- vanced approach : his own comrades (probably young soldiers) were afraid to fetch the body. I mentioned tlie sappers' names in my report, and General Simpson directed 3/. to be given to one, and 2l. to the other. The men were much gratified. I have written for books for the men in my company, and those in the hospital, to read, as well as a few for my OAvn perusal. * The life in camp abounds in contrasts. When off duty, I take pleasant rides through scenery picturesque and full of interest. The country beyond the valley of Balaclava, towards Baidar, is richly wooded, romantic, BATTLE OF THE TCIIERNAYA 185 our 11 11 '11 and bcniitifu]. The Worouzoff road is adiniralily iniido, and carried alonuf tlu' side of |)reci])ict'S, and on tiif in.st of Nvoodi'd ravines ;ind hollows. *()n tli(! iiiorninLT of Tlmrsdav tiie lOtli, at idtoiit lialf-pnst 3 A.M., the htn^i^-expeeted attack of the l\us- sians on tiie French and Sardinians near tlie Tcheniaya took place. A brotlier officer of mine (tiie Hon. ('a)it. Keano), stationed at Tialaclavn, liad hi.s attentit»n at- tracted, about one or two o'clock in the mornin,L(, l>y the disphi}'^ of a nuinl)er of lights from various parts of tlie English camp. Knowing how many spies we have amongst us, he ri<jhtlv coniecturod that these were siu- nals to the Knssian armv, to intimate that all was right, and that they might advance. Acting promptly on this idea, he wrote a despatch to General Jones, and mounting a horse, rode himself direct to the (piarters of General Scarlett, wdiom he requested to send a mounted orderly, to warn General De la Marmora of tlie probability of an attack. This information was given an hour or so before the order arrived from head-([uar- ters for the troops immediately to get under arms, and advance to the front. The Kussians advanced on the Tchernaya, and the heights held by the French and Sardinians, with the utmost resolution. They were supported by the fire of several l)Jitteries on the heights, and they brought forward a powerful field-battery on to a plateau, to cover their attack. Their main effort was directed against a French ii^te du pout, guarded by only sixty men. These they drove from their works, and cro'-siug the river (a mere brook) witli little rude port- 186 CANADA AND THE CIlIMEA iildo ))ri(l<:jr's, stormed tlie hcij^Mit.s with the r^roatcst m'alliiiitry, and did not ul)}ind(»n the utteinpt until tiie ifiound was covered with their shiiu. * After th(; l)iitth', I visited tiie Tcliernaya and tlie Chasseurs d'Afriiiue — very fine-h)(»kin^' feUows in(h'ed, mounted on small Arab horses, with lonjj^ manes and tails. A l)roiized Zouave, I was told, refused ijl. for a small pocket- book, taken from the body of a Russian officer. It con- tiuned locks of hair, and the portraits of two or three very pretty girls. He said he had shot tlu^ Russian himself, and intended keeping it as a souvenir of the battle. The French were very kind after the Tchernaya to tlie Kussian wounded, and they covered the faces of all their own dead they had been una])le to inter on the day of the battle. I saw hundreds of Kussian slain, lying in every attitude of agony over the ground, mangled with round shot, or pierced by bulletr. : some of them, poor fellows, near the crests of the heights which they had so gallantly tried to storm. Their boots were all stripped from them, as well as every article of any value. These poor serfs were clothed in the rudest fashion ; they had no socks, but merely a bit of canvas wrapped round the foot, to protect it from the pressure of the boot. Their grey coats were worn and dingy ; the bread they car- ried resembled earth ; it was strewn about in various parts of the field. They all carried three or four days' provisions. * The Russians apparently had endeavoured to turn the Sardinian and French positions, and isolate the Turks and Sardinians from the rest of the army. The FIUNT NIGHT IN THE TIlKNCHES 187 Sai'tliniiins fm^'lit adruiniljlv, l»ut tlic diit f liniiit (tftlio buttle was \nn'iut l»y thf Fn-ncli. Tlity arc very pnnul, and with jiistiot', of tlieir victory. Tlu; Uussiaiis, it is said, lost 40()() killed, wouiidi'd, and prisoners. They retreated in jj^roat order, their rear covered liy immense masses of cavalry, at ahout noon. (Jenend IN'lissicr was on the field at (5 a.m.; hefore that time the l-'n-nch were commanded ))y General LeClerc. It is said the stren,L,'th of the Russian army was 7(),()()0, thoiijj^h they did not hriny: anvthin«' like that niind)er into action. The ad- vance division was provided with entrenching tools, and it was clear that the Jvussians intended establishing themselves permanently on the heights, if they had won them. I knew nothing of the battle until it was nearly over, but saw the Russians in retreat, from a hill a few miles off. The 12th Lancers was, I believe, the only English regiment engaged. It was sent to the front at General Pelissier's request. ' On my first night of actual duty I was associated as junior officer with Captain Cooke, R. E. We had to commence a new sap from the fifth parallel, on the salient of the Redan. A number of gabions, bread-bags full of earth, hand-barrows, and spades, and shovels were collected. Our working party was a strong one, and set about their labours skilfully and cautiously: two gabions were quietly pulled out of the parapet, and an opening made for men carrying gabions to pass. The direction of the sap was indicated by a white tape, and the gabions were placed in a row, with as little noise as possible, along the line thus marked out. The utmost , I i' ■ n il T ■ J.; i\ 188 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA silence was necessary, as we were Avithin a hundred and fifty yards of the Kedan, in ran^-e of every descriptir>n of missile, and, l)esides were close to the Russian sentries. The fii'ino-, whicli had been maintained with some spirit during the evening from our trenches on the Eedan, suddenly almost ceased, and the suspicif^ns of the enemy appeared to he aroused in ci>use(iuence. They threw out a fire-ball which alighted within a few yards of our newly-placed gal)ions, and blazed brightly up. We witli- drew our working party as rapidly as possible to prevent their being ol)served, and waited in anxious suspense watching the burning missile. By what seemed ahuost a miracle, the light fell in every direction, apparently, but that of our trench; and the enemy clearly had not perceived us, as no fire Avas opened for several minutes, and then only a chance shower of grape, with the view f»f making sure all was right, directed across the space in front of the salient. This unhappily killed one of our working part}^, and I had an opportunity afforded me uf witnessinsf the coolness and unconcern with which a casualty was regarded in the trenches. The poor fellow's body was borne past me as I stood near the entrance of the trench, and haif-an-hour afterwards, when at tlie same place, one of the bearers returned to report that the man was buried, adding that *•* he was surprised to find he made such a handsome corpse." All this was said with the enemy's shot and shell flying over us, and scattering death around. There was only one casualty in the work- ing party, and 87 gabions were placed and filled, and a small trench dug behind them. ABSURD STYLE OF DRESS 189 *I had charge of another working party of 100 men, employed in improving the otli parallel. The ground was extremely rocky and unfavoural)le, and it was necessary, in order to obtain earth, to place a portion of the party employed outs'tde the trench, unprotected by any cover whatever. The men worked in their red coats buttoned up to the throat, and with 60 rounds of ammunition suspended across their shoulders, as they had to resume their arms and act as part of the gv^ard of the trenches on the slisrhtest alarm being given of a sortie of the enemy. It was not to be supposed that men thus encumbered would be al)le to <ret throuifh mucli work. ' The real fact of the case is, that the system pursued is wholly an erroneous one. It is not to l)e supposed that men will work well buttoned U}) to the throat, and weighed dtjwn with straps and pouches: nt.'ither can it bu thought that inexperienced workmen will achieve much under auv circumstances. In addition to these disqualifying causes, a man is physically unable to under- go much fatigue after a night passed in the trenches without sleep, and under the enemy's lire (as all morn- ing working parties have to do ). The proper mode of proceeding in my opinion would be, to establish two regular permanent working corps of 1000 or 1*200 men each, selected from the various regiments in the army ; to give these men higher pay and a more suitable work- ing dress, and to camp them as near to the siege-works as possible. These corps would be sufficient to furnish all the requisite working parties for each attack ; they 11 1 1. 'f! ! 5 •■'y.ai;3fw>-.'i,.iaifti 190 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA m i-i would perform more work in an hour than ordinary work- ing parties would in five or six, and do it in a more work- manlike manner. They should be marched home to camp immediately their labours were over, and have plenty of time for rest and sleep, being merely worked as ordinary navvies or labourers. It seems surprising that some system of this kind has not been adopted. ^August 25th. — Last night Captain Browne, K.E., the director of the right attack, was severely wounded by a minie-rifle ball through the shoulder; the doctor hopes he may get over it well. We all feel great regret, as he is an excellent officer, and a very good fellow. As we get nearer and nearer the Redan, our work becomes more and more dansferous. * A great attack, near Baidar, was anticipated last night. The whole of the Highland Brigade was sent there to co-operate with the French, and extra troops marched into the trenches to guard against a sortie, which was likewise expected. The unfortunate Light Division (which has suffered so heavily throughout) were detained 48 hours in the trenches. Our artillery and cavalry were under arms and in readiness to move at a moment's notice. It is now past seven in the morning, and we have heard nothing of the attack in camp, though the siege-firing has been heavy all night. ' August Slst. — My nights in the trenches are generally rather hot ones, i. e. there are a great many casualties — one night especially so, when one regiment alone (90th) lost 36 men, killed and wounded. I had the superintendence of a number of working parties, amount- :m.ib\\ II HARASSING DUTY IN THE TRENCHES 191 ing to about 400 men, and was walking about visiting and directing them. I came to a hole where a shell had evidently burst. A corporal of some line regiment was standing by, with a bayonet and part of a belt in his hand. I inquired what had happened, and was told that the shell, which had fallen close to where I was standing, had blown some poor soldier literally to atoms. A foot, a few yards in the rear of the trench, was all they had been able to discover of the dead man. I hurried past the scene of this shocking accident to encounter another of a similar character, a Mttle farther on. * I can imagine no duty more trying and harassing than that performed every day and night by our army in the trenches. If a man gets a medal for going through a battle which lasts only a few hours, without running away, what do they deserve who, night after night, and day after day, are exposed to be killed or wounded, lying in a ditch, and have to perform their duties without the stimulus and excitement of action? I saw one poor fellow after another brought up to the doctor's, but many of them frightfully wounded by splinters of shells. Such perpetual exposure to death, in cold blood, tends, every day, to demoralize the army, and makes men fear the shot of the enemy. ' My night's duty in the trenches, on one of the last occasions 1 was down, was diversified by a little incident rather exciting in character. We were engaged about the time in making a sap from our 5th parallel along the slope of a hill, with the view of establishing a rifle-pit at the end of it, to silence the fire of several guns on the K^: I : • l ir .ii J i >riY i ' |lll .n , „ ).ii... I 1 I I I '■! H 192 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA proper left face of the lie Jan, which were unpleasantly annoying our gallant allies. The Russians seemed to have divined our intention, or at all events to regard our nearer approach with great uneasiness ; for the moment they discovered the existence of our sap, they directed a heavy fire of shells, grape, and round shot at it, killing and wounding, night after night, the men of our work- ing parties, and knocking our gabions into toothpicks. They also made frequent sorties for the purpose of pull- ing down our parapet, and impeding our operations. The sap was not far from the MalakhofF, commanded by that work in some measure. The Russians (who are admirable at outpost and picket duty) almost always manage every night to get possession of the ground in front of our works, and of a small rifle-pit, in a ravine, whence they were able to annoy our men. They were partly favoured in their approaches by the colour of the grey great-coats ; they were undistinguishable from earth at a short distance. * It was proposed to establish a rifle-pit on the side of the ravine opposite theirs, with the view of silencing their fire. Elphinstone was on duty with me (though my junior officer) on the night the attempt was directed to be made ; he had been in the Crimea almost from the commencement of the siege, and knew the ground perfectly. We both repaired, shortly after nine o'clock, to the most favourable point of our line for starting an expedition across '' the open." Unluckily, though this was by no means an exception to the general rule, our sentries had been jDosted late, and the Ruskies were in ileasantly iemed to eijard our I moment iirected a it, killing Diir work- oothpicks. se of pull- )perations. manded by s(who are ost always grovmd in 1 a ravine, They were )lour of the from earth the side of nicing their though my directed to from the ;he ground ine o'clock, starting an though this d rule, our Lies were in A DANGEROUS ADVENTURE 193 possession of the ground in front of us. Nevertheless we determined on trying the experiment. Our party con- sisted of three soldiers with muskets, and a small working party of a sapper and ten, or twelve men. Elphinstone and myself, with our three armed men, crept on in front, followed at a short distance by our working party carrying tools and (gabions. 'We advanced as cautiously as we could: the shot and shell directed from our batteries at the enemy, and by theirs at us, whizzing over our heads. We spoke in whispers and endeavoured to tread as lightly as possible ; I groped about for a flower to bear off and send to my mother as a trophy, but my liand encountered nothing but thistles and grass. At length, after walking about thirty or forty yards, Elphinstone stopped, and told us he thought we had reached the right place. He had no sooner said this, and our small working party halted to wait for our workmen, when a low whistle was heard from the Russian sentries, lying concealed aroimd, and we perceived that we were discovered. Our men in the trenches had been told we were out, and directed on no account to fire. Our discovery was immediately followed by a volley of musketry directed at us from all around, and our men, in spite of the warning given them, seeing the blaze of the Russian muskets, opened an indiscrim- inate cross fire on every one (ourselves included). We took to our heek and made for our own trenches as fast as our legs would carry us, and happily reached them in safety. Three of our working party, however, had been wounded, and they had been forced to abandon their I ! i r, ' 4 I a I I 194 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA tools and gabions. This adventure led me to suggest that buglers should ])e sent into the advanced trenches to sound " fire," " cease firing," &c., in order that a command might be instantaneously conveyed along the trenches when necessary. * On the night of my rifle pit adventure, the advanced sap was guarded by a vStrong party of the 55th Regiment, whilst the Guards lined the adjoining parallel. The Russians were distinctly heard advancing, and their yell was quite audible. They soon gave more convincing proof of their approach, by firing a volley at the trench. I thought I perceived signs of wavering among our fellows, but they happily stood firm, and returned the enemy's fire with vigour. The officer commanding the detachment of the 55th said he wanted reinforcements, and I accord- ingly ran to the nearest parallel, and got an officer of the Guards to bring up twenty of his men. The enemy, however, seeing the English soldiers stand firm, withdrew, abandoning his attempt. * I continue my rides in intervals of duty. The other day I rode to a French battery near the head of the harbour, whence I had an admirable view of the town, harbours and shipping. The houses on the north shore are pretty-looking white villas, quite uninjured. We are firing now more frequently on the town, and some of its finest buildings have been greatly damaged. The Russians are making a bridge across the harbour, which looks as if they were ready to make a run for it if neces- sary. The Malakhoff is immensely strong, and fortified towards the town as well as towards us. Everythiug depends on the approaching assaults. If they fail, some to sufffjest order that a THE MONASTERY OF ST. GEORGE 193 wholly different movements may be made. Everybody is sick of the siege, with its perpetual hammering, and the gradual daily consumption of life in the hot, dusty trenches, apparently to all the world in general without any result. * I have visited lately, amongst other places, the Monastery of St. George. It is very pictures(|uely situated. A few Eussian monks are still permitted to live there, and there the French (gay everywhere) delight to have their little picnic, occasionally enlivened by the presence of aome piquaute brunette^ the wife of an officer of the navy or army. On the occasion of my visit, a party were sitting on the ground around the relics of a feast, singing and drinking champagne. It was certainly a contrast to " life in the trenches." *The Monastery of St. George is almost the only build- ing within range of the camp which has been respected. It consists merely of a few plain buildings, and a couple of little chapels. It has, however, a noble well, and a fountain of the coldest and most delicious spring water. The ground immediately in front is arranged in small terraces, shaded by trees, overlooking the perpendicular cliffs and the blue sea. There is a sanatorium in its neighbourhood for sick officers and soldiers. One of the attractions of the place is a pretty little Greek girl with classical profile, and gentle winning demeanour; she is quite a child, only twelve years old. She will have plenty of youthful memories to cherish up. The beauty of the weather almost reconciles one to the monotony of camp Hfe. There has been scarcely a drop of ruin since I came, o 2 1 , li 'H'tlit'l rt'i iMnltni. if II ,«l i I 196 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA and the sky and temperature resemble those of Canada in September. I should think, to people living in properly drained cities and iniexposed to hardships, the Crimea must be a most healthy residence. * A grand combined attack on our siege works and the whole position is daily, and even hourly, expected. The whole of the troops on the line of the Tchernaya have been, I hear, under arms every morning at three o'clock for the last fortnight ; and the Highland Brigade, consisting of the 42nd, 72nd, 79th, and 93rd Regiments, under 8ir Colin Campbell, have been marched to the left of the Sardinian army as a support. * Since the battle of the Tchernaya, the French have fortified their position very strongly, and the hills are covered with musketry ambuscades, entrenchments, and masked batteries. No one is allowed to cross the river, and Zouave sentries, in their picturesque uniforms, line the banks at intervals of a few yards. The position I consider now almost impregnable at this point. The choicest troops of the French army defend the line of the river, and the Chasseurs d'Afrique, their crack cavalry, are in great strength in the neighbouring valle3% The variety of uniforms, and the picturesque costume of the African corps of the French army — the Zouaves Indigenes, Egyptians principally, the finest infantry they have — is very striking, and one continually en- counters groups forming perfect little pictures. The French are quite at home in the field. One of their regiments is encamped on the top of a bleak hill with no shelter except tentes cVabH, blankets stuck on bayo- ANOTHER GENERAL BOMBARDMENT 197 nets. Here and there they have formed arbours of boughs of trees, and the other day I saw a pretty minia- ture little garden. * General Pelissier's head-fjuarters are surrounded by a chevaux-de-frise, and the front of his tent gravelled, and kept in the neatest order ; no officer, even of the highest rank, being allowed to ride to the door, l^ut obliged to dismount before approaching it. The youngest ensign of our army may ride or walk to General Simp- son's unmolested. ' Sept. 5th. — Thank God, I still keep quite well, though disease and death are rife around me. Exposed constantly to danger, I can rely only upon God, and place my life in His liands. Last Sunday I received the Sacrament with seven or eight of my brother-officers, — the ceremony, within sound, and even range, of the enemy's guns, was to me deeply impressive. Nothing makes a man feel the extreme uncertainty of life, and his entire dependence on the will of God, so much as war. I was on duty in the trenches on Sunday night, and I think the ceremony I had gone through strength- ened, and supported me a great deal. I had several most providential escapes. * There are stronjj rumours current of the evacuation of Sebastopol after a grand despairing effort of the enemy. This morning, shortly after daybreak, another general bombardment from the English and French batteries on the whole Eussian line of defence commenced, and was conducted with such violence that in half an hour the Russians withdrew their guns from the embrasures, ( I 198 CANADA AND THE CKIMEA ;, ■jjs I >rr 1 and ceased to reply to it, — it is to be continued for thirty-six hours. Its object, I understand, is to enable the French to push forward on the 3Ialakhoff: they are so close that a final assault cannot long be delayed. The Russian defence has been admirable ; their batteries are beautifully constructed, and quite models of en- gineering. One cannot help both admiring and pity- ing them. ^Sept. Qfh. — Yesterday morning, an officer of the 3 1st (Captain Anderson), who had been acting for some time as Assistant Engineer, was killed by a round shot in the trenches. He was a very fine young fellow, and one of the handsomest men in the army. All of us Vv'ho were able (I believe) attended his funeral in the afternoon. I had only known him a few days, but liked what I saw of him, and his death has been a blow to us all. The band of the regiment played his funeral march to the grave. The coffin was a plain deal one, and on it were placed a Union Jack, and the cap and sword of the de- ceased. The procession moved from our camp at about six o'clock. The evening was lovely. The burial-place (Cathcart's Hill) was in full view of Sebastopol and the siege works, and a bombardment was going on from various parts of our line as we lowered the corpse into its last resting-place. Groups of soldiers off duty stood watching the sad procession as it moved slowly past them ; some civilians, who happened to be present, un- covered ; and cavalry soldiers dismounted and stood by the side of their horses. Nothing could well have been more impressive. I walked side by side with the clergy- tinned for to enable tioff: they >e delayed, ir batteries lels of en- and pity- of the 31st some time shot in the and one of IS v;ho were e afternoon. what I saw IS all. The larch to the i on it were of the de- mp at about Durial-place )pol and the ng on from corpse into f duty stood slowly past present, un- md stood by 11 have been h the clergy- A RUSSIAN SHIP ON FIRE IM man, and thought of who might he tlio next victim. One must steel one's feelings and summon all one's forti- tude to bear tlie spectacle of the miseries of war. ' Last night one of the enemy's large line-of-battle- ships, moored in tlie harbour, caught fire and illuminated the whole horizon. There wore also, I hear, two other smaller firer. The sight of the burning ship was very fine. It could be seen distinctly from a hill near our camp. The guns went off as the fire reached them ; but it seems the Russians had contrived to save the powder, as no loud explosion was heard. The sight of this fire was of course very clieering to our men, who devoutly wish the whole place would burn to the ground. The bombardment is still going on, and the thunder of artillery accompanies my pen as I write. ' Orders have been given to form steps in the most advanced parallels, and also to hasten the completion of a small battery for three heavy guns near Egerton's rifle- pit, to silence the fire of one of the flanks on the proper left face of the Redan, which commanded the space in front of the salient angle. ^ Sept. 7th. — Thank God, I am alive and well after another night in the trenches. The bombardment is still going on. The Russian shells killed and wounded several of our men in the advanced trenches ; but I managed to push forward our approaches satisfactorily. *An officer of the Guards was killed whilst visiting his sentries at the head of one of them ; I had been speaking to him shortly before. The duties of the Engineer officers at night in the trenches are very ' ft- ' i' 1 1. ' 1: •^00 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA arduous. I was walkiiii^ iihout uudrr firo noarly the whole ni^'ht, haviii;^; woikiui,' parties in various parts of the trenelies 4.^0 stronj,'. I was several times o])Hge(l to throw inysclf on tlu? ^'nmnd to avoid splin- ters of shells. There is a little hut protected from fire in the (juarries, which, is called the Engineer Oftiee. It is so small that one cannot stand upriglit in it, and is full of fleas and mice ; hut it is a welcome retreat from danger, after a long and fatiguing round through tin- rocky trenches. I gave it u[) in great measure to th»^ doctor on duty last night, but happened to he present when several poor fellows were brought in with limbs torn away by splinters of shells. I was much shocked at the various sights I was compelled to witness. The wounded men behaved heroically. 'The Engineer on duty, though perhaps only a young subaltern, is the next greatest man to the General of the trenches. Every one consults him; and I was frequently asked by experienced officers how many men should be placed at particular points, and how they should be disposed; and my advice was always imme- diately acted upon. ' After an arduous ami sleepless night, and a fatiguing walk from the advanced trenches to a point wliere a horse can be brought in safety, Engineer officers, on their return to their tents, between live and six in the morning, have to write detailed reports describing the progress of the work during the night, the operations of the enemy, and the employment of a variety of working INTENDED F NCH At?S<AULT 301 parties. This moniint; my rcptut covt-rcd more than a shoet of Inra,*' letter-paiMT, so it can Ik* easily imaj^'ined tliat it recjiiin's some effort to write t!ies»! reports \v1h*ii very tired; btit necessity kuowH in) law, ami there is some Batisfiirtiou in knowing tliat one's effusions are perused by tlie (.'onimander'iji-i^'hief. My recommen- dations of various men for distin;i;uishud romhiet have l)rou<^l»t ]f,'ratuities from (leneral Simpson for the in- dividuals praised, amounting,' alto;j^ether t(^ 8/. 'It is rumoured that the French assault the Malakhotf to-morrow. The Kn<dish Li'dit Division are also re- ported to be under arms, so that it is probable the En- glish army may take part in the assault. * # * May God bless all who are dear to me, and have them in His holy keeping. The above rumour has been fully confirmed, and this may be my last night on earth. ' If the French army succeed in their assault ou the Malakhoff, the English are to attack the Kedan ; in fact, there is to be a gen(a-al attack along the whole line. All the officers of Engineers are to be told off to their several positions to-morrow; several accompany the assaulting column, some remain with the reserves, I may know early to-morrow where my place is to be, but of course everything is uncertain in war. I am sad, but quite calm; I look upon all this butchery with horror, but accept it as a stern necessity, and am deter- mined with God's help to do my duty. If I die, may God of His infinite mercy prepare me for the great ■ «Kfc<fett- -' rtl^nTiilln-iTiHitiiOTln "i- «<HaMtr» A"(e*f ■•»>*»0%-!-W I ';': i I !' 202 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA changfe. How many hundreds of poor fellows will breathe their last to-morrow ! I must not think of home, or I shall unman myself. May God be pleased to bless and preserve me. 'Sept. 8th. — lam to lead the assault with the scaling ladders. I march down in about half an hour. Imi 203 I 1! J CHAPTER XII. THE ASSAULT OF THE REDAN. TTHE secret of the attack was admira})ly preserved. Xot -L a whisper was circulated. It took us all by surprise, as we imagined no furtlier attempt would be made on the Eedan, after the failure of the assault of the 18th of June. We heard, however, that it was arran^^ed that both armies should "go in" in earnest, and that the success of the French in their attack on the Malakhoflf was to be the signal for our advance on our old enemy the Redan. Oar several positions were not assigned to us; but knowing that it would probably fall to my lot, as Senior Subaltern, to occupy the post of honour and lead the ladder party, I prepared myself, as well as the short interval permitted, for the probable fate which would attend the performance of the desperate duty. I took farewell of my mother and all my relations, committing them to the blessing and protection of God. I endeavoured to pray earnestly, and to compose ray mind. I felt the only course left open was willing submission, and fixed resolve that if I were to die, to fall in endeavouring to do my duty to the uttermost. n M h i\'\ '- iHipj^iri^t i^fS ii^'tftifaiH.'i; ■ ' 111 1 Li 1 ■^■■-"'-^*>i,i4itai^'^^«^'*ii^..iaiqfVVW-'>i h i 204 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA Beyond this, I was determined not to go. Though every soklier should expose himself without the slightest hesitation to the greatest danger when necessary, reck- lessness should never form part of his creed. His duty to his country should be the primary, and the preserva- tion of his life the secondary, consideration. No really good soldier throws his life away without aim or object. ' I had been on duty in the trenches during the night of the 6th September, and was consequently very tired on the night before the assault. I slept well and calmly on the whole, but awoke rather early in the mornnii):. ' Between five and six o'clock, a.m., the Adjutant came in and confirmed my conjecture that I was to lead the ladder party. Soon after Anderson came into my tent, and informed me he was told off for the working party to follow when the storming party were well in pos- session, and form a lodgment across the Redan. I rose and dressed; I put on my red shell jacket to look as much like the men as possible, and carried in my pocket besides a tourniquet, portion of a night-shirt torn into strips for bandages. • ' I called at my Colonel's (Col. Chapman) to read the written instructions given me by General Jones. I found they were as follows: — "The Subaltern of En- gineers in charge of the ladder party should, as soon as the troops have got into the Eedan, commence a communication by a ramp from the ditch to the glacis. It will be necessary for him to ascertain whether any parapet will be necessary across the ditch of the two rnEPARING TO LEAD "THE FORLORN HOPE » 205 faces, to guard against any attacks the enemy may be disposed to make by them. If the scarp and parapet of the salient of the Redfin do not form an easy ascent and descent, it must be made so." * These directions were clear and explicit enough ; but to carry them out, positively no working party, with tlie exception of a few sappers with shovels, nad been told off. I immediately pointed this out, and asked for and obtained a working party of 100 men, who were in- structed to follow immediately after the storming party. * I had an interview with Nicholson (now JNIajor Nicholson, R.E.), to whom I gave my brother's address, with a request that he would communicate with him in the event of my death. He promised to act for me in everything as he felt I should have wished him to act, and tried to reassure me as to my chance of escape, though (as he told me afterwards when 1 came back ) he had not the slightest expectation of ever seeing me again safe and sound. These matters settled, I rode down to the trenches with Anderson, Sedley, and Major Camp-jell, 46th. They were thickly lined with troops when A re arrived, and the batteries were firing heavily on the Redan and Russian works; the enemy replying with grape and round shot. ' I lound the ladder party, composed of men from the 3rd Buffs and 90th and 97th Regiments, lining the sap in front of the Redan (called the sixth parallel), the trench which Cooke, and mvself commenced on mv first night's duty in the trenches. The party consisted of 320 men, who were told off to forty scaling ladders, )! II h I ' , i: ^P^iUv^^ '".^-^jtf.jmfeHl^i-A-^ -■■'•■.»-^*ifc.'.l,ji !^T, ! ;■ ih 206 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA each twenty-four feet long. My instructions were, to advance with my sappers, armed with crowbars and axes for cutting through the abatis, and with the bidder party immediately after the skirmishers had been thrown out. The party was under the command of Major Welsford, 97th Eegiment, with whom I conferred for several minutes, and to whom I explained the point where tlie ladders were to be placed, in order to screen them as much as possiljle from the fire of the enemy. I tlien told my party of sappers what they w^ere to do, and assembled the non-commissioned officers to point out the measures to be taken under their directions, in the event of my being either killed or wounded. These arrangements being made, I awaited the signal to advance, silently calling upon God to aid and assist me in doing my duty, and, if it were His will, to preserve my life. Suddenly there was a shout that the French were attacking the iNIalakhoff. I looked over the parapet, and saw them rushing up the salient. They were apparently unresisted. The French flag in a minute was seen waving on the ramparts. All this happened so instantaneously, that it took us all by sur- prise. ' We had anticipated a hard struggle, and we were ordered not to advance till a decided success had been achieved ; but, as it were, in a second the dreaded Malakhoff had fallen into the hands of the French. Our men could be no longer restrained ; before there was time to get the ladders to the front, and before the sappers could advance to cut away the abatis, they THE ASSAULT OF THE EEDAX 207 MLS were, to rushed in a straggling line over the parapets, and dashed onwards to the salient. I hurried up my sappers as fast as I could, shouting to them till I was nearly hoarse, and ran forward with tliem and the ladder party, with a drawn sword in my hand (my scabbard and belt I left behind). In the hurry and confusion, many ladders were left l^ehind. There was, however, little excuse for this, as the men had had their places distinctly assigned to them, and should not liave left the trench without their ladders. It was of course impossible to perceive that anything of the kind had occurred, and still more impossible to have rectified it had it been known. The only word was — " Forward ; " the only course to pursue — to advance as rapidly as possible. Nearly 200 yards of rough broken ground, and an abatis had to be crossed under the enemv's fire. The men advanced with the greatest spirit. I could see bodies dead and wounded lying along and strewing the ground on each side of me, as I pressed forward, shouting continually to the men to advance, and not to pause for an instant. When I came to the abatis, I found five men nearly exhausted carrying a ladder and trying to get it over the opposing branches ; the remain- ing three men composing the l)arty of eight had pro- bably been killed or wounded in the advance. I lent them my aid and urged them on. The edge of the ditch was soon reached, and I was relieved to find the ditch not nearly so formidable as it had been repre- sented, and as I had good reason, from the solidity and extent of the Russian defences, to suppose it was likely i ! I. ! ' »ss^jr-w'iO»«*utaiJ>i«cc.-t.*,»«j;; j,:i i; II ' a I it ■HI' :. ■; , 208 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA to prove. I was prepared for a broad deep ditch, flanked by caponieres, and for military pits, chevaux- de-frise, palisades, and all kinds of obstacles. The dreaded ditch of the Redan, however, proved nothing but a simple trench, perhaps fourteen or fifteen feet deep at the counterscarp, and twenty or rather more at the escarp. I kept my ladders rather to the right of the salient angle, having been warned that the flanking fire would probably be severe up the proper left face. Half-a-dozen or so were lowered and reversed in a minute, and the men poured up them with eager haste. I set to work with every sapper I could get hold of, or to whom amid the din I could make myself audible, to tear down the rubble stone-work with which the salient of the escarp was reveted, and form a ramp practicable for ascent without ladders. 'The long continuance of dry weather which pre- ceded the assault must be regarded as a very favourable circumstance. The gabions staked to the ground with wooden spikes (with which the counterscarp was riveted) were torn down, and used in forming, with rocks, stones, and debris, a small parapet across the ditch of the proper left face, and a similar counter-caponiere thrown up also on the other side. I had to work, how- ever, with my own hands; it was difficult to get any one to do anything ; the men, as they straggled up to the assault in support of the advance, seemed stunned and paralyzed — there was little of that dash and en- thusiasm which might have been locked for from British soldiers in an assault; i": fjut it required all \¥ WHERE ARE THE RESERVES? 309 eep ditch, !, chevaux- cles. The red nothing fifteen feet ler more at he right of he flanking er left face, ^ersed in a eaccer haste. , hold of, or f audible, to a the salient p practicable ■y which pre- favourable OTound with erscarp was rming, with OSS the ditch er-caponiere work, how- to get any iggled up to ned stunned ash and en- .1 for from irequired all the efforts and example of their officers to got the men on, and tljese were rendered almost ineffective from the manner in wliich the various regiments soon irot con- fused and jumljled together. The men, after firing from behind the traverses, near the salient, for lialf-an- hour at the enemy, — also firing behind his parados and traverses, — began to waver. I nished up the salient with the view of cheering them on, and the offictrs exerted themselves to sustain them ; the men gave a cheer and went at it afresli. Tlie supports or reserves, ordered to follow, straggled up in inefficient disorder, but w^ere unable to press into the work, as the men in advance, occupying the salient, refused to go on, notwithstanding the devoted efforts of the ofificers to induce them to do so. Whether it was that they dreaded some secret trap, or some mine which would destroy the whole of them at once — whether it was that the lono: and tedious sie^'e works had lowered their "?nora/e" — or whether it was owing to the dreadful manner in which tlieir l)i\ision (the Light, most in- judiciously selected to lead) had been cut up in previ(ms actions — it is a melancholy truth, that the majority of the assaulting cohunn did not display the spirit and dash of thorough good soldiers, when assaulting the enemy. They refused, however, to retreat, and seemed to look round for aid: I trembled when I saw no one coming, and looked continually, anxiously, round for the reserves I considered, as a matter of course, would be advanced immediately it was perceived that the II ' ■ i ! I. I ,:i ¥. ) 210 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA leading columns had failed to carry tlie position, and were commencing to waver. * It wan in vain, however, to look ; our Crenerals had left their reserves about an h')ur's march in the rear, so that even if our soldiers had charged forwards, as they should have done, they woidd probably have found themselves compromised, surrounded by the enemy, and immolated, before any assistance could liave been brought to them. I had just given directions to the fraction of the working party of 100 men told off to me, which reached the ditch, what tliey were to do, and was returning towards the salient, when the sad repulse took place. What brought matters completely to a crisis, I have never exactly ascertained : I heard directly after I regained our trenches that three officers of the 41st, after vainly striving to induce the men to advance, rushed forward together, and were all three sliot down like one man by the cross fire of the Russians behind their parados. This w^as the turning-point, according to this account, of the men's indecision — they w^avered and fled. I was near the counterscarp, when I saw the whole living mass on the salient be<jfin reelini>' and swav- ing to and fro. In a moment I found mvself knocked down and lying on my face, with a number of men scrambling over me — their bavonets running through my clothes. I expected to have been stunned and bayoneted, and to have l)een left insensible in the ditch, or shot by the enemy before I could drag myself out of it. However, at last I saw an opening, and holding on by my hands and knees, managed to force my way to it THE UEPULSE 211 Dsition, ami enerals had the rear, so rds, as they have fouiul the enemy, I have heen tious to the id off to me, do, and was repulse took to a crisis, I rectly after I of the 41st, to advance, ■e sliot down Asians behind nt, according they wavered len I saw the no- and sway- self knocked iber of men ning through stunned and ill the ditch, myself out of id holding on my way to it tliroufdi the niovino: mass, and recrain mv lef's. I ran tlien as fast as I could towards our advanced trenches, the grape whistling past me like liail, and tlie Russians standing on the top of tlieir parapets, and firing volh'vs into the crowd of fuiritives. 'In our trenches all was shame, rage, juid fear — the men were crowded together and disorganized. It was hopeless to attempt to renew tlie attack with the same troops. ]\Iy Sappers all went to the (^larries, but I re- mained for more tlmn half an hour, in the most advanced trench, with the shattered remains of the assaulting column. An officer of the 92nd came up to me and shook me by the liand, saying that he was glad to see me safe and sound, and that of liis regiment he was the only officer left, — ]Majoi- Welsford and "olonel Hancock (whose wife, poor thing! was then in the Crimea) hav- ing both been killed, and several others wounded. ' Finding there was to be no attempt to renew the attack, and mentally returning thanks to God for my wonderful preservation from imminent jjeril, I returned to join my party at th(; Quarries. ( )n my way I passed General Sir ^^'illianl Codrington, who was charged with the direction of the attack, sitting in one of the trenches, with his aides-de-camp about him. I repeated to him a few Avords I had heard fall from the lips of an officer of the 33rd, to the effect, that if it were possible to col- lect the men of the various regiments together, under their owti officers, he would be willing to renew the assault. Sir William said the fire of the grape was too heavy to admit of the attack being repeated that day. I P 2 I ; i h ( , 212 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA >J< r' ' I'' i was received with very kind and hearty congratulations l)y one friend or brotlicr officer after antjtiier, whom I encountered in niv proLrress throuirh tlie trenches — Anderson especially, who was attached to the same company as myself, said he had been particularly anxious ; and when he found I did not return with the {Sappers, thought it was all over with me. The Enoiueers' hut, near the Quarries, presented a most lamentable spectacle when I reached it. Every stretcher had been put into recjuisition for carrying off the wounded. Some of the men employed as bearers, it was said, had not returned — remaining away to avoid the danger (for dejith and wounds v/ere rife through every part of the lines this day, and men were actually killed in the stretchers on which they were being borne wounded to the rear). SSeveral poor fellows, more or less grievously wounded, were lying helpless and in agony in the trench. Inside the hut was a poor gunner, with his leg badly shattered by the splinter of a shell. In front, in the centre of the roadway, lay a rifleman dying, covered with blood about the head and face, and foaming at the mouth — a most ghastly spectacle. Near me was a poor fellow shot iu the small of the back, iu great pain : I managed to raise him up, Avith some emjity sandbags, to make his posi- tion easier — this was all I could do. Three or four more victims lay groaning or faint and silent around ; while the inexorable roar of cannon and shot continued, and death remained l)usy at his work. The rags I had taken down with me proved very useful : I bound up SHAMEFUL XEGLECf il3 the •Nvounds of several ])oor fellows wirl tlicni, i tlie ditch of the Kedan, during thi' assiult, udiniiiisteriu<;' some V)raiidy to them from my flask ; and actually wa^ thanked by the surgeon in the advanced trendies for a couple which I gave him from my cap, as 1 went down (he having told me he was (piite destitute of any supply!), and that by some shameful negh-ct he had been on duty during a terrific bondiardment, dressing tiie wounds, or y)erhaps merely roughly binding tliem up, as well as the urgency of the case would admit, for forty-eight hours. I felt very indignant and dis- gusted at this, after all that has been said and written on this painfid subject. * Wliilst waiting in the Quarries with the remains of my party of sappers (some of my mere handful of twenty-two having been killed or wounded), a naval officer came up and asked for Elphiustone, the engineer officer on duty, as he wished the direction of an em- brasure in a battery to be altered, in order that one of the guns might be turned on some shipping. Though my duty strictly speaking was over, yet I felt I wjus called upon to supply Elphinstone's place at a time like this, and therefore repjured with a party of sappers t(j the battery indicated. I heard that the Eussian fire had been very heavily directed on this and an adjoining battery, and that they had succeeded in silencing several of the guns. I gave the necessary directions for the alteration of the embrasure, and then repaired to a point near where Col. Chapman, De Vere, and several t / :M 2U CANADA AND THE CIIIMEA I I ;l I 7' I > km: otliiTs, were loi>kiu;;- over the parapet, ftrid wjitdiiiiL; anxidiisly, as well as the dense tlouds of nmoke mid dust would admit, tin? assault of tlie Frcneli. It was impossible, however, to (listiii;L;uish any olijeet very clearly; all was <lin, smoke, and confusion. A kind of hurricane blew during the day of the assault, and pre- vented the intended co-operation of the navy. Col. Chapman told me that my ladders had been admirably planted, and that as there appeare<l n« -thing for me then to do, I had better go and report myself to .Sir William ('odrington, and ask him if he re(|uired my services any further. If he said not, I was to return to camp, and write a short report of the assault for General Jones. I returned to the Quarries, and found on my way there that 8ir Colin Campbell was left in com- mand. I accordingly addressed my inquiries to him. He told me that he shoidd not want me, and asked me to sit down beside him, and give him some acconnt of the attack. I did so in a few words. On my way home, every one that I met who knew I had been with the ladder party, seemed ast(jnislied, and I am haj)py to add glad, to see me back. Tired and excited as I "svas, I had to write a report, which was altered oii account of the last paragraph, which might have got me into trouble, and to give me an opportunity of mentioning the names of the sappers who distinguished themselves. There were nine I think killed or wounded out of a small party of twenty-two. The following is a copy of this report : — OFFiriAL nKPOKT 21:. • " IJ. i:. Caiiil), S.'|.t. >«tli, IS.M. * " In oltcdicnco to your instnit'tioiis, F hnvc the lioiiour to report for yoiir iiit'oniiatioii tlic j»io- ftM'diiii^'s of ilie siippcrs mimI hidder jcii'ty to which I wa> attached at the assault iA' the I{e(laii tliis luoniiun'. I was ordered to advaiu'c witli the ladder party, iiiuiie- diately after tiie skirmishers had heeu thrown out. '"The exeitenieut auioii;^'' the' troops in the trenches, however, was so ^reat when they ])ereeived that the French were masters of the .MaJakhoff, that they rushed unexpectedly over the parapets, hefore the ladder party had liad time to <'et clear of the advanced treiu'h. I <jot niy sappers to the front, as soon as possible, with tiieir crowhiu's and axes, and ran on with tlie advanced ladders. '"The enemy opened a lieavy musketry fire upon us, and occasioned many casualties auKju^' the huhh'r party ; however, the men pressed rapidly forward. *"The abatis did not prove a serious obstacle, and the ladders were soon low^ered into the ditch, and reversed from the counterscarp to the escarp. The}' were placed in such a position that the men descendin<;' and ascending them were scarcely, if at all, exposed to the flanking fire of the Russians up the ditch «-»f each face. ' " The ditch of the Redan itself is not more than 15 or 16 feet deep, if so much, and only 8 feet broad, and tiiere was no difficulty experienced in forming a ramp for the men to ascend. i 'J ) ■ 216 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 1 I ■^ 1 v^ i m I '"The working party told off for me (consisting of 100 men of the 77th Eeginient) were not to arrive till the whole of the assaulting column had come up. I, however, employed the small party of sappers under my charge till their arrival, with a few men of the assault- ing party, in forming a small caponiere across the ditch of the proper left face, up wdiich the enemy was pouring volleys of musketry. * " Cfabions were torn down from the counterscarp, and filled as wx*ll as possible with loose stones, and a partial cover was soon obtained. ' " The fire of the enemy, however, was so hot that, after half-an-hour, the work had to be suspended. A small caponiere was also in course of construction across the ditch of the proper right face, near the s:ilient, and a fair cover had been obtained there when the assaidting colrmm retreated. A portion of my working party had arrived just before the troops with- drew, and they were engaged on these caponieres, and on forming an easy ramp into the ditch from the glacis, when the repulse took place. ' " It is not my duty to offer any opinion on the general arrangements for the attack. I shall therefore forbear from stating, vudess called upon to do so, the causes which in my opinion led to its failure. ' " I have the honour to be. Sir, ' " YoiQ' most obedient hianble servant, ' " George Ranken, * " Lieut. Koyal Engineers. ' •' Lieut.-Col. Chapman, C.B., &c. &c. &c." !i' isisting of arrive till lie up. I, ; under my he assault- s the ditch Tim pouring unterscarp, )nes, and a io hot that, oended. A ■onstruction 3, near the there when tion of my oo-pH with- inieres, and the glacis, lion on the I therefore to do so, dure. Sir, e servant, Engineers. THE NEXT MORNING 217 * After I had finished my report, I dined with Ander- son and his l)rother, the same party which had dined together with anxious and rather gloomy forebodings on the previous evening. Before I had well eaten my dinner, a telegraphic message summoned me to head- quarters. I rode there with Captain ^Montagu, K.E., (who had had the superintendence of the various parties at the assault,) and found the old General sitting up in his arm-chair looking rather grave and stern. He was in conversation with 8ir William Codrington, who had evidently been giving him a description of the day's pro- ceedings. I explained to him about the ditch of the Redan, and answered a number of c[uestions, and he then told me I might go. I retired to rest on this eventful day, hardly able to express my gratitude to God for my deliverance. ' I was very tired, but the heavy fire of cannon which still continued, and my excitement, prevented much sleep. 'fS^fpf. 9tJi. — I w^as awakened from a broken slumber at [ibout four this morning, by a tremendous explosion, and soon after heard Nicholson (who had just come back from a night's trench duty) assert, that the liussians had evacuated the town, and were firing their magazines by galvanic batteries. I immediately dressed, and after a cup of coffee rode off with Nicholson, De Vere, and Sir Edward Colebrooke (an English gentleman who had come out in his yacht to see the fun) towards Sebastopol. We bad not gone far, before we saw an immense cloud rise into the air accompanied by a deep sullen sound, the n ^ ! I 'I '' '^fHiiX- ■'■■...'-, Ut:-... ^ I J? i .M' 21S CANADA AND THE CRIMEA explosion of another large magazine. The whole of 8eha.sT;opol was in flames ; but nearly half of the burn- ing city was hidden Ijy the impenetrable cloud caused by the exj^losion. The huge line-of-battle-ships which formerly lay like grim floating towers, blocking up the harbour, had been sunk. Nothing of them but the tops of the masts was visible. A few steamers, looking melancholy and isolated in the midst of the general ■wreck, alone remained of the fleet w^hicli had sjiread terror over the Black Sea, and the possession of which had been urged so strongly Ijy the Russian negotiators. ' When we reached the Woronzoff ravine, we met Highlanders bearing out the wounded men found scat- tered over the ground in the neighbourhood of the Redan. By some unaccountable negligence, though it appears that the Redan had been in our possession from midnight, or eleven o'clock on the previous evening, these poor fellows, though exposed the whole night to the cold, had not had any species of refreshment ad- ministered to them. I gave the first three or four I met some l)randy from a small flask I had with me, hut this was soon exhausted, and I thought I could do some good by returning to camp and loading a baggage pony with half-a-dozen bottles of brandy, and taking a couple of servants with water canteens and drinking cuj)s. Sir Edward Colebrooke* approved of my idea; we re- turned together, and on oiu' way back again to the * I take the opportiniity which the mention of this geuth*niaii. fts associated with my l)rotht'r in a work of mercy, alfords me, to express tlie gratitude which all my family feel at his generous A WOKK OF MERCY 219 Kedaii, were able to refresh upwards of fifty jiour fellows, some of them in the last stages of faintuess aud exhaustion, with brandy and water. * The refreshment was, in all cases, most gratefidly received, with the exception of several too desperate fer any remedy. We emptied four or five bottles in a short time, and I hope did some good. I saw Sir Colin Campljell, who seemed to approve of what I was doing, and told me I was playing the good Samaritan. ' »So great had been the neglect of the proper au- thorities, that I actually gave a wounded man some brandy and water, with my own hand, as he lay at the l)ottom of tlie ditch of the Redan on the sp(jt where he had received his wound. I refreshed several p(jor Rus- sians who were found wounded, and who expressed their gratitude in a sort of uncouth joy. They were simple, ignorant-looking fellows, perfectly vh-tuous of aml)ition, — bodies without souls. 'Tlie salient of the Redan presented a terrible ap- pearance. ' nitside the ditch, and a little to the left of the salient angle, in a small hole, lay the bodies of fifty or sixty English soldiers, thickly piled together. Xear the crest of the counterscarp was an officer with hi-^ band stretched out as if in the act of waving his sword. His features were not distorted, but noble, composed, and manly, though a portion of his head had been carried away by a grape shot. f'yinpatliy to us during- our gi'cat aflliction. and tiie kind mention Ik' \\\\^ made of my brother's name in hir» iuterefitiuir Journal, whieli I have had the privilege of reudiuy. — Editou. (^ 1 I 220 CANADA AND THE CRDIEA II' ' The ditch near the salient was full of bodies, ga- bions, and debris, lviu<i' in horrible chaos to<>-ether. Inside the Kedan few bodies were to be seen, but a handful of our men having penetrated into the in- terior. At a point, however, more than twenty yards from the salient, I saw the body of a y^ung English officer, and close to him, three or four soldiers lying side by side, or across the bodies of several Russians. The attitudes of the various figures bespoke the energy of their death struggle. There were several Russians wounded sitting or lying on the terreplein of the in- terior, or concealed in the splinter-proof barracks con- structed under the parapets, but 1 did not see many dead bodies. At one of the flanking batteries I saw a deeply impressive spectacle, and from it was enabled to form an idea of the devotion of the Russian artillery- men. * On both sides of the guns were the bodies of tlie gunners lying one upon the other, five or six deep. All around were strewn canisters of the grape-shot they had been firing to the very last. The Redan proved a very large work, undefended at the gorge, except by a single infanay trench, but with huge traverses, and a double line of parapet, which would enable the defenders to open a cross fire on the head of any column advanc- ing from the salient-angle (as they actually did on our troops). The width of the work at the gorge facilitated the advance of reinforcements, while it rendered the formation of a lodgment more difficult. The whole interior space was ploughed up by our shot and shell ^ries 1 saw a EUSSIAN BARRACKS 221 ill the most terrific manner. It was a mere chaos of deep holes, dismomited J4'uns, shattered gal)i(»ns, l»roken iron, and solid shot. It seemed a marvel to us how men could have existed in such a place at all. ' The losses of the Kussians from our tire, when their works must have been filled with troops in readiness to repel an assault, must have been tei'rific. A certain garrison, however, tlie defenders could hold safe and sound. We found under the huge piles of parapets and traverses, both in the ]Mahikhoff and the liedau, long splinter-proof barracks, calculated to contain several hundred men, most solidly constructi'il with beams and the masts of shijjs, and perfectly safe from the effects of the heaviest projectiles. Long lines of beds, in double tiers, where the men slept at night, were found in these galleries and l)arracks, covered with coats and clothes, full to overflowing of fleas, and per- fumed *' a hi llusse.'" Soldiers' wooden spoons, fragments of their black bread, innumerable articles of clothing and accoutrements (some nearly new) were scattered about these s])l inter-proofs and the parapets of the work. Huts for the oflicers were also discovered, containing cupboards, empty wine l)ottles, and in some cases, chairs. 'My faithful domestic (a sapper named ^Miiiiro) who accompanied me, bore oft:' an arm-cliair from the J\cdan in triumph, which afterwards decorated my tent (and in which I now sit as I write this), proljably used by some I-iussian Captain or Colonel. ' Walking with Graham and Campbell (whom I met li i ! "'«4*J'--ii'.,'*irt*^., 222 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA i .!-■ viewing the works) towards the Maliikhofif, I encoun- tered Genernl Simpson, to whom I w^as introduced by Colonel Chapman, as the engineer officer w^ho led the ladder party. The General said he had heard of me, and that I was a fortunate fellow to have escaped. I looked upon our rencontre with some satisfaction, as I considered my heing thus prominently brought under the notice of the Commander-in-Chief might increase my chance of being mentioned in despatches. Colonel Chapman told nie to direct any Royal Engineer officers I met to come back to camp as soon as they could, as their services woidd probably be required. We had ail of us visions of various duties and occupations before us. Surveys, plans of the Russian works, itc, demoli- tion of forts and docks, and perhaps the construction of fresh batteries to silence those of the Russians on the Xorth shore. However, the great consolation — the inexpressil)le relief — of the termination of " duty in the trenches" had come, and other fatigues and dangers seemed child's play to this great all-absorbing service. I walked with ]\Iajor Campbell and Lieutenant Graham almost as far as the larsj:'e white buildiniis behind the Redan, perforated in all parts, and a scene of desolation and ruin from our batteries. The wliole of the civil portion of the city w^as still in a blaze ; and as it was (juite uncertain where the Russians might have secreted their mines, or what fjrt or buildings thev mio-ht intend to blow up, it was by no means j^rudent to venture far into the town. We had no time to look at the ]Malak- ■' '^ ; I '■1. I SEBASTOrOL 223 lioiT, and, in fact, were rather hungry, having liad only a sort of military snatch before starting fortli on our rambles. * The Church service, performed under our rough taipaulin roof, was very impressive to-day, tliough it was difficult to abstract one's thou^dits from the stirring events which had taken place. 'Sept. lOfh. — I rode down with Anderson to visit the ruins of the still burning citv. We were en;ibled to traverse the military portion of the town without molestation. We foimd the ma<»-nificent ransjes of white barracks and public buildings all more or less injured; the barracks near the Redan perforated in all directions l)y cannon shot, or torn and smashed by shells; a number of smaller buildings, jjrobably the poorer suburbs, literally a mere heap of ruins. The requirements of the vast defensive works were mani- fested by the gutting and dismantling of several fine ranges of barracks, solely for the purpose of obtaining materials from them for powder magazines, splinter- proofs, and platforms. While endeavouring to force our way througli the civil portion of the town, occupied by the French, we encountered General Pelissier and a large staff, and uere warned by one of the Generals on the staff not to advance furtlier, Ijecause an explosion was expected to take place in the town. We accord- ingly turned back, and reached the ]Ma1akhoff, on our way home, about the same time as the Frencli General. He is a small, very active loijking man. He jumped off 11 ' 224 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ■;! i . in I 10 his horse, and ran clown into one of the ditches of the ]Malakhoff with the vivacity of a schoolboy.* ' The ]\Iahikhoff presented a ghastly spectacle, dead lying everywhere in it and near it ; Eussians evidently shot while running away, and Zouaves killed whilst in the ardour of pursuit; noble-looking fellows lying dead on the escarps and the embrasures, all along the ditch leading from the ^Nlalakhoti' to the Little Redan ; bodies in every attitude, with faces little distorted, but rather ennobled by death. Many of the dead had been col- lected and buried, l3ut there were at least a thousand or fifteen hundred lying about in all directions, filling the ditches, or collected together for interment. I fancied I should never have been able to look on the dead on a battle-field ; however, as my three weeks of warfare, from the battle of Tchernaya to the grand assaidt, has been nothing but bloodshed and death, I am now familiarized with the spectacle. ' Wliile urging on the men to the assault of the Redan, I stood in the midst of the dead and dying, and poor fellows in every state of suffering lay around. It was a scene of such horror, that I have hardly yet recovered from the shock. The French say we fought well at the Redan, and that if we had succeeded iu gaining possession of it, we could not have held it, as it is quite open and very wide at the gorge, and the Russians could consequently bring up heavy masses of * It was probably General Bosquet my brother saw ou thi? occasion. — Editok. i' ?M GREAT STRENGTH OF THE REDAN O-T, tches of the * ctacle, dead lis evidently [id whilst in rs lyinj^ dead ng the diteli edan ; bodies 1, but rather ad been col- it a thousand ctions, filling interment. I ) look on the hree weeks of to the grand and death, I Lssault of the nd dying, and y around. It ^e hardly yet [say we fonght succeeded iu lave held it, as ^orfre, and the ?avv masses ot ther saw ou thi? men to envelope, and crush our straggling cohnnn (»f assault, already torn and disordered by a terrific flank fire of grape on their advance. Instead, therefore, of our useless and bloody assault, we should, in my opinion, have done much better had we sent two or three regiments to assist the French in holdino- the Malaklioff, and when they liad gained a decided footing, and beenenabledto turn some of tlieiiuns in the ]N[alak- hoff to sweep the gorge of the Kedan, made our assault on that work, which being isolated and shut to reinforce- ments, nuist have succumbed to a vigorous and spirited attack. This is the more certain, as, even as it was, had onr Generals employed their reserves pr(jperly, we should, iu my opinion, have carried the work and held it. *The Kedan is, in a military point of view, much stronger than the ]Malakhoff ; the latter, from its com- iiianding position, is a very imposing hooking work, but to our surprise, we found it very badh', if at all, flanked; whereas the Redan is flanked by an indented Hue mounting half-a-dozen or more heavy guns ou one face, and on the others by batteries in a ravine, very difficult of access to our projectiles. ]]y far the strongest work of the whole is the Flagstaff Batter}-, covering the civil portion of the town ; the defences here are very well contrived, and so formidable that I might safely stake my existence that no troops in the world could carry them if only tolerably defended. The Flagstaff is in itself a Kedan, with a broad deep ditch with palisades and military jjits in it; beyond the Q I A 226 CANADA AND THE CRDIEA i U !• ii^ I:' I I counterscarp of the salient is a small l)attory of •^•iins; and mortars, s\ve('])ing the approach and iirini,' into our lines, which it sees into most unpleasantly. Behind the Uedan an; two or thi'ee other strong lines of cii- trenchments niountinL;- the heaviest guns, and wlicn all these are passed you suddenly come upon a hattery swee[)ing the approach to the town, and placed on ;i risin<; knoll in front of some l)uil(Ungs very difficult to carry l)y assault ; this })osition is, therefore, im- pregnable, and it is extremely fortunate for us that it was iwt the key of the whole. * The extent of the French siege works is enormous, I suppose that altogether tiiere must he thirty or forty miles of trenches and zigzags in front of Sebastopol. 'The liussians possessed inunense advantages over us in having all the stores of the dockyard avaikable aud close at hand, and all the heavy guns and amnuniitir»n from their ships and arsenal, while we had to drag- everything over miles of morass and mud, and do all our military work idso with a mere handful of nien. The interior of all the Russian works is tremendously ploughed up by our shot and shell, but all the parapets for purposes of defence are sound and good ; we may look upon our success as a marvel. It is no disgrace to the Russians, no array could have fought better or defended itself with more unflinchinfj courage and skill. An officer of artillery tells me that his battery fired right into dense cohnnns of Russian troops, advancing" to drive the French out of the ]Malaklietf. and he could clearly see the effects of its shot, wlioK' ENTRY INTO SEHASTOl'oL 987 :ory <>t" g'uiis I'inj^' ii\to our tly. lU'hiiul lines of cu- and wlicii all oil a ))attc'ry |)l:ie('(l tin a very difficult lieri'forc, im- for us that it ; is enormous, thirty or forty 5ebastopol. ntao-es over us i available ami (1 aniiniuiition had to drag ud, and do all ndful of men. tremendously 11 tlie parapets good; we may no disgrace to Li<dit better or f courage ami hat his Ijattery Uissian troops, the Malakhntf. its shot, ^vholl• ranks were ploughed up by if, l)ut theeolunui reniain<'(l as steady and firm as if not a single sliot was being fired into it. ' liotii armies, it is uiuiecessary to say, liave a great respect for their (»pponents. Tiie day after the assault, .')(),()()() fresh troops march(Ml into Sehastopol ; their arrival thus late must be regarded as another happy accident, or rather interposition of Providence, as their presence on the preceding day might liave turned tiie scale ai^ainst us. 'The French have undertaken the police of the town, and the streets are lined by their pickets. The churches (none of which have been destroyed by the Ixussians) are used as guard-rooms, with a few other buildings which ])reserve the semblaiu^e of a roof, and our brave allies may be seen chatting together in lively groups over their rations and "vin ordinaire," with their arms piled and glittering in the sun in front of them. I rode yesterday through all the French portion of the town ; we have the military side, and come in for huge barracks, hospitals, SiC, most of them (lihipidated, but of vast size and admirably built; these may perhaps be fitted for the reception of a Division of the Army during the winter. ' The liarbour is the most lamentable spectacle of desolation I ever witnessed, completely choked and filled with wrecks and the masts of sunken vessels. r y 838 CANADA AM) THE CRIMEA 1 1 < CHAPTEli XIII. INSIDE SEBASTOrOL. I THOUGHT I had sceu sufficient liorrors on the 8tli and tlie (.'iisuiiit,^(lay; l)ut on the morning of tlic lOtli. I witnessed a spectacle more terril)Ie than any f had yet witnessed. About a thousand or more poor wounded Russian soldiers and officers were found in a large ]tuihlin2 near the ruins of Fort Paul, on the mornins; i>f the 10th. Tiiey had passed nearly two days in agony and misery, without food or any assistance. ]Many dead were there, and the stench in the vast charnel-house of horror so dreadful, that it is a marvel how any had sup- ported existence. It is a stain on the humanity of tlie Russians that they coidd thus leave these poor wretches to their fate without even indicating where they Averc, A flag over the l)uilding, or even a surgeon or officer with a flag of truce left behind to explain and direct our attention to the Hospital, W(udd have been suffi- cient. A flag of truce was, I believe, sent over from the North shore on the morning of the 10th, and some Russian officers selected from amongst the mass of poor sufferers those whom they thought the most likely to ,4 ( • SrFFEKINGS OF THE SOLDIRUS 223 recover t'roiii tlicir wounds, and t'a[);il)le ot' iK-inj,' aj^'aiii rendered lit for service. Ail tlie Imd eases I iienrd were left to tho Knirlish and Fre'neii surifeons. Tliev had enoiij,di oil tlieir liand.v •■*y. it was, tliouL;'li they of course undertook their ])ainful task as well as they could. *ThiH lon^' siejj^e, — the dreary drudj^ery of French duty, — the constant spectacle of death, and wounds unacconipanic'd by excitement, — the losses of our old soldiers, uud the fresh draui;-lits of yuunj^' recruits that have been sent out, liave all contril)uted to depress nnd demoralise our army; who can wonder at it ? .Alarch- ing down for periotls of twenty-four sometimes thirty- six hours to<;'etlier, exposed in a ditch to lie killed as they slept or while at work, tired and dispirited as tliey wended their Aveary way back to the camp : they must have hard hearts indeed, who cannot make some allow- ance for men thus sorely tried. No one can ima«^ine what the work has been ; even I though out so short a time, felt a gnawing anxiety eating into my miu'l. I was very much exposed on duty, and I never could feel any confidence when I went down for a night in the trenches that I should return. Our army I feel sure will recover by a campaign in the field, which is nuicli more congenial with the feelings of the soldiers, and lias much that is animating and inspiring about it. ' The native strength of the Russian soldier's con- stitution was demonstrated in several instances. I saw a poor fellow sitting on the steps of the Hospital, who Lad probably passed nearly forty-eight hours without sustenance, supporting the stump of one of his legs, the I' I i 230 CANADA AND THE CTiniEA ',•■ I C t lower part of wliieli must eitlicr liavo been sliot away or amputated. Tlie man did not look very faint or ill, and bore his sufferinLTs without a OToan. Above this scene of misery was a store, full of Russian miiforms, helmets, &c. I obtained a few trifles as trophies. The harbour and dockyard creek near this hos])ital were strewn w^ith ft\ai>ments of wrecked ships, and a s^nall steamer partially burnt and submerged was washed by the swell almost against the quay walls. The Kiissians appeared to be very loth to burn the VJadlmlr (their pet steamer). * One of the subalterns of my company w^as ordered down with a detachment of sailors to build a battery on the coast, the night after the attack, for the purpose of sinking her. The jack tars were .•ou:'ed to the highest pitch of enthusiasm, and w^orked like demons. The steamer moved up within a hundred yards or so of them, and took a melancholy glance at their prepara- tions. In front of her w^as the whole Eno'lish fleet. Escape seemed impossible, and the final step of burn- ing the vessel was at length (to the great anger and dis- gust of our sailors) resorted to. When she came close up, they proposed to suspend work, and sink her with a field gun. ' Fort Paul, standing at the end of a split of land, running out into the harliour, and probably not more than seven hundred or eight hundred yards from the nearest Russian batteries on the opposite shore, was a shapeless moimd of ruin ; its demolition had been per- fect. Fort Nicholas had been partially burned, but the STREETS IN SEBASTOrOL 2.")1 sliot away faint or ill, Al>(>v(' tlii^; 1 uniforms, )hios. The (S])ital were lud a small ; washed by he Kussians Ibnir (their was (^'dered a hattery on e purpose of 3 the highest ■mons. The rds or so of leir prepara- ilnglish fleet, jtep of burn- nc:cr mid dis- le came close :ik her with a split of land, ,bly not more irds from the i shore, was n had been per- irned, but the sea bomb-proof wall was still uninjured, and the embra- sures for upwards of l.jO guns were as intact and solid as ever. The enemy's arrangements for blowing up this fort nuist liave failed. Possibly the wires connect ing the mines with galvanic batteries on the opposite shore, were broken, by coming in collision with the wrecks f»f suidcen vessels, or some tind)er or larixe float- ing body may have driven a^'ainst them bv the heavy sea which was runninf' during the whole of the 8th. The walls of P'ort Alexander also stand very \\ell, though the enemy managed to explode the mines in- tended, without doubt, fin* tlieir destruction. ' I visited the French portion of tlie town a few days after the place was tako.'ii, in conijiany with Lieut, (ira- liani, K.K. We were neither of us provid(^d with the re(|uisite papers for the French trenches, and the whole of the main street of the civil portiou of the city, oc- cupied by our gallant allies, glistened with the bayonets of their pickets. Yet, nevertheless, through the igno- rance and vanity of a little French sentry, who mistook our English "permit" for a correct document, we man- aged to obtain an entrance into the ruined streets. 'Sebastopol is finely situated, and laid out in broad spacious streets. Some of the houses, though n(jw nothing; in o-eneral remained of them but blackened disfigured walls, must have been very handsome and elegant. The club house and several cluu'ches remained nearly intact. The principal church had been already converted into a French guard-room. We looked with the deepest interest at the remains of the famous city, , J 232 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ■ I M i. ,_'Si aDfl Doted oven within its streets preparutions for ob- stinate and desperate defence. There were barricades at intervals down the streets, and fire-arms and gun- powder we learnt had been found in many houses. What the final strui^-rjle mi<4ht have been, liad not God in his infinite mercy permitted onr surprise to succeed, it is almost too terrible to picture. All the scenes of blood here enacted woidd hiive shone feebly by the side of it. We rode to P\)rt Nicholas, close to wliicli is a large open space, used l)y tlie Russians during the siege as a market- place. It was almost the only part of the city out of reach of our shot and shell. A naval officer on board one of the ships of the fleet told me, it was always densely crowded, and that large military parties were constantly emplo3'ed there, making gabions, &c. From Fort Nicholas the Russians coidd be seen very plainly walking about, with apparent nnconcern, on the oppo- site shore, or on the tops of the parapets of their re- doubts. From this point their works on the North side had a most formidable appearance, battery after battery rising tier above tier, seemed ready at a given signal to lay the remains of the devoted city into ashes, and to render the whole iminhabitable to the victors. Graham and I dismounted from oiir horses (as we did not wish to tempt a Russian rifleman by being too conspicuous), and leaving them in charge of a French semry, ad- vanced in front of the fort and close to the water. The masts of the Twelve Apostles and other line-of-l)attle- ships, were almost within a stone's throw of the spot where we stood. With a telescope, I could almost dis- 'i*. r BEST AFTER THE STORM 233 ions for ob- 3 barricades s and gun- any lionses. lad not God succeed, it nes of blood 16 side of it. a large open as a rnarket- e city out of 2er on board was always parties were , &c. From very plainly :>\\ the oppo- of their re- e North side after battery ven siirnal to ashes, and to rs. Graham did not wish conspicuous), 1 seniry, ad- water. The ine-of-l)attle- V of the spot [1 almost dis- cern the features, whilst I was enabled clearly to watch the movements of Ivussian working parties, pursuing their avocations as quietly and unconcernedly as if nothing Jiad happened. Groups of two or tliree might be observed here and there standing; lookin«r at their lost city, and watching a few stragglers who, like ourselves, had reached the opposite coast. As if by mutual consent, hostilities seemed lo have been suspended. J^otli armies weary with iighting, were taking a kind of holiday. We found that the French portion of the town w^as very strictly guarded, and saw noljody but sentries, a few French officers, and some of the English staff, who had doubtless with some trouble obtained permission to enter the place from the French liead-cpiarters. We therefore considered ourselves fortunate in havinq; ob- tained this early view, and rather congratulated (our- selves on our successful impudence. 'The English are not allowed to enter the tow^n, a cordon of cavalry being drawn up to prevent it. The French have it all to themselves. There can be few of the excesses, which generally attend a successful assault, perpetrated. Almost all the valuables are either burnt or removed ; and the inhaljitants, with very few excep- tions, have quitted the devoted city. * The Russians are now in the forts on the North shore, and in a large entrenched camp close to the harbour. They wdll probably open fire upon us soon. Last night was a disagreeable one in camp ; the wind blew with great violence, accompanied with clouds oi' dust, which soon filled the tents and reduced every- V. 2.14 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ,'v • '1 5 ■^ f 11 t f , ij ! % i II tliiii^,^ to an iiniforni dral). Tlie tent viljratcd to and fro. and r expected my pole every ifionient to l)reak and the tent to come down on my head. I made dispositions to meet these events l)y partially dressing, and placing stools, iSic. on high points, to prevent the tent lialf smothering me hy receiving it when it fell. ' The wind was soon followed by a thnnder-storm accompanied hy very heavy rain ; this lulled the wind and I got to sleep. * This morning our parade ground is covered with the most adhesive clay I ever encountered, and the rain pours on ; ho^vever, these are but small matters now that Sebastopol is ours. The city is now like a great charnel- house. I met to-day strings of waggons fdled with the Russian dead almost in a state of putrefaction. They say that to-day 100 Russian officers were found lying dead in a large room all together ; they had probably perished from want of food and attendance after their wounds. The Russian army fought with desperate courage. A French officer told Nicholson to-day, that after the French had carried the ]Malakhoff, a Russian officer and forty men in a pit near the centre, refused to surrender, and fought till nearly all were killed. ' We do not know the precise loss on both sides. All we know for certain is, that it is enormous. What the Russians can possibly gain by prolonging the struggle no one knows : the Crimea is filled with their sick and wounded. I observed them again to-day on the North shore, apparently getting timber from the wrecks of their vessels. RUSSIAN WORKS 2;i5 ' Tlic jjcneral eliaracteristic of all tlio Iviissiaii work^ was their extreme streiij^th and solidity. They seem the works of giants. It is impossible not to l)e asion- islied at the vastness of the undertnkiiiL;", or to avoid conjuring up the hosts who must Jiave toiled day and nis^dit to carry it out. A great (h'-'d of the vast labour expended was, liowever, unnecessary, in a military point of view, and even defeated its own oliject. Tlie gigantic traverses witli wliieh most of tlie principal works were covered, and the splinter-proof barracks under them, in which garrisons might remain safe from shot and shell, both jH'oved detrimental to the d(>fenders when the assault was given. Tlu; traverses formed ])ara])ets, equally for the attacking as for the defending troops, and the splinter-proof barracks, prisons, from whence their tenants were effectually debarred emerging by a few opponents. The necessity of both, however, ap])ears obvious when the interior of the works is exandned. The terre-plein of the Kednn is a sea of crater and debris. The enemy had formed a slight covered com- inunication between it and the barracks in the rear, along which relief might pass comparatively, though by no means, effectually, sheltered from our fire. The whole of the ground near the salient of this worJc, so especially and so long the object of the Englisli attack, was covered with half-buried disabled guns, whose muzzles, or breeches protruded grimly and moui-n fully in the midst of the chaos of holes, fragments of shells, and debris of gabions. 'The ]Malakhofif, in my opinion, would never have , ' r - I. ,r :i| : SI ■ill 236 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA been taken except by surprise, — once surprised, the holding of it was a matter of no great difficulty, tliough, of course, accompanied by rather heavy loss. Tliough the key of the whole line of works, it was on this .•iccount, one of the weakest. It possesses also but little saliency beyond the general contour, and is most im- perfectly flanked. Most happily for us, the Eussians had been led to adopt the form indicated by the primary round tower, merely at first l)uil(ling an earthen parapet around it ; happily too, they liad been led to neglect it till the latter portion of the siege, on account of the projection of the salient portion of the ]Mamelon, which effectually commanded all the approaches of the Allies. Had they constructed a second bastion du m.lt, re- trenched only half as strongly as the original, our hopes of taking Sebastopol by an assault would have vanished, or must have been luiderta^-en against another part of the defences. It was painful to reflect on the small part the English army had taken in the great assault, and how that small part had been marred. I still think our fellows would fight better than any others in a fair field, and under a good general, who kept his recruits away from vital positions. ' I had charge of the water- works for the supply of the army after the siege was over, taking it from Elphin- stone, who had been wounded severely in the trenches by a stone, knocked out of the parapet by a round shot. My labours were not arduous, and 1 had time f<5r little trips into the coimtry to explore the scenery, and get a few ideas respecting the position of the various corps I i m •prised, the Ity, tlnnigh, s. Tlumffli ,-as on this so but little is most ini- he I-iussi.ans the primary lien parapet :o neglect it ount <jf the lelon, which f the Allies. in mat, ra- il, our hopes ,ve vanished, itlier i)art of »n the small reat assault, red. I still my others in dio kept his supply of the 'rom Elphin- the trenches I roimd shot. ime for little ry, and get a arious corps JIICIlAEL^rAS DAY 237 (Varmee. One of my expeditions proved a very interest- ing and exciting one. Our party was arranged several days before our start, and consisted of Captain Nicholson, Lieutenant Edwards, and myself (all K.E. officers) ; Major Campbell, 4Gth Regiment, and .Air. Smith (an uncle of Nicholson's, staying in the camp on a visit). I had been on duty, commencing a battery near the ruins of Fort Paid, (Mi the previous evening, and liad not gone to bed till nearly three in the morning. It had been arranged that a cart, with provisions and blankets, should be sent in front of us to Haidar (seventeen miles\ there to await our arrival. I was so freijuently awoke during my very short night by per[)etnal dis- turbances, noises of bugles, c^c, that I felt <[uite uurefreshed, and thougli the rest of my ])arty h'ft at a quarter to eight, I delayed my departure until nearly two hours after. The day (Michaelmas Day) was most lovely, and the pass beyond Kamara looked perfection ; I had never, on any other occasion, been more than a few miles ])eyond the Sardinian camp, so that soon all became new to me. The Woronzoff road (which we fol- lowed in the main through all its twistings and windings) led through rocky, w^ooded ravines, skirting and edging- spurs of rock, which jutted like so many capes or })ro- montories into the deep valky below. Emerging from this romantic and beautiful pass, tinted with the hues of autumn, and showing all the varied and striking effects of light and shade in strong contrast, the road enters the valley of Baidar, a sweet little vale, enclosed by green slopuig and wooded banks, whilst in the dis- 238 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ■ I- 1 • I I t tarice, to tlie East, rise ruj4'<>'e(l mountain peaks and lofty siinimits of hills, redeeming tlio landscape from tameness, and serving, as it were, as a setting to its gem-like riclmess. Peroski's villa, a small rather fan- tastically-! )uilt chateau, with a white tower surmounted by a green cupola, standing out very conspicuously, and situated a few yards to the right of the road, al)out a iinle from Baidar, was the point which, on a previous occa- sion, had been selected as a reiidezv(ms,and I accordingly hoped, wiien after a long sharp canter I approached it, that I .sh(juld find my party engaged in a rustic '^' dfjedner a la fuurcltdte'' on the green sward, under the trees surrounding the house. A French guard proved the sole occupant, and the sentry informed me as I rode up that it was " tUfemlit " to enter ; however, on incpuring, I learnt that my party had ])een there only ten minutes before, and riding on at a rapid trot, I soon sighted them, traversing in a line a grec^n plain that bordered the road. We found our cart at Baidar, where we arrived at noon. Baidar had not been very long in the occupiition of the P'rench. ' After the fall of Sebastopol, they pushed forward their advanced posts wdierever they coidd, and the Kus- sians retreated before them. We found the streets of this quaint, picturesque little Tartar village crowded with '■'- Franca 18^'' buying meat, onions, and bread, or chatting together in groups. A regiment of Chasseurs d'Afrique is now encamped in the place, whilst con- spicuous on a neighljouring hill-side, to the rear, may be seen the white tents of the Turks. We lunched, THE PASS OF rnOROS 239 1 peaks and (1 scape from ettiiijjj t(» its I ratlitv fan- siinnounted icuouslv, and .about a milt' •evious oeca- I accordingly [ appr<)aclie(i. 1 ill a rustic sward, under 'rench guard informed me :er ; however, [ been there , a rapid trot, a green plain irt at Baidar, .ot been very shed forward and the llus- tlie streets of la<)-e crowded ind bread, or of Chasseurs e, whilst con- the rear, may We lunched, seating on the grass, near the watering-place at 1 Gaidar, and fed our horses. Our road, after leaving Baidai', wound up a hill, at the top of wliich we found a regular masonry arch and a French guard of \20 men; this was the entrance of tlie pass of IMioros, which tlu' French had taken possession of. Tiie archway, with very little difficulty, could be strengtlu^ned in such a manner as completel} to close the road against the advance of an army, however formidable. It is situated on a most commanding point, overlooking the road for more lliau a mile, and the nature of the ground (composed prin- cipally of gigantic landslips) is such as to necessitate a most tortuous and winding route, and several apparently retrograde movements in the advance from one point to the other. At the archway the scene burst upon us in all its grandeur ; we rode along admiring more and more, as we advanced, the loveliness to which it had served as a portal, and to which we had so suddenly been intro- duced. ' To our left was a continuous lofty precipice — varying only occasionally in height and ruggedne^ss — towering proudly into the clear blue sk}^, its edge defined with beautiful distinctness and delicacy against the chai-ming background. Trees and shru])S, here and there instinc- tively^ rooting themselves in the small patches of earth, niggardly sprinkled over the harsh barren rocks, shot up fresh, green, and beautiful, on its sond)re sides. At the foot of this vast rampart of cliffs were masses of rocks tossed confusedly alxmt, as if by some Titan hands ; here and there standing bold!}' out, but gene- 240 CANADA AND THE CRIMKA ■ 1 ; I i ( t) 'I ! ;l! in 1 1 111 r.illy imlx'flded in eartli, and ludf hidden ])y the folia^fc of the trees springinijc up from tlieir restin^^-pluces. The road wound ahniLT the l)ase of tliis wihl and heautifiil chaoH. lUdow it was a scene somewhat similar— a series of gi'^antie landslips jutting out into the sea ; but below, earth and vegetation predominated over rock and bar- renness. A little Tartar village, close to the sea, soon greeted our eyes. It consisted merely of a few little white houses, >Nith red tile roofs. Just opposite it, and not half a mile from shore, lay a French man-of-war steamer at anchor, and at a short distance beyond, u second steaming slowly up. They were stationed at this point to guard and observe the pass. ' We expected to have met with some diflPiculty in getting through the French advanced posts, as a per- mission in writing from the French head-([uarters was generally demanded. We, however, fortiuiately found a very complaisant young Frenchman on duty, who, after a few explanations, permitted us to proceed. I offered him my "Illustrated" to look at (happily con- taining a picture of General Bosquet on the first page)., and left it with him to peruse till our return. We were warned by him not to proceed along the road beyond the most advanced French posts, which he stated to be "two hours" in front of us (in the phraseology of the country two leagues). We rode on and on, however, more and more charmed and delighted with the scenerv as we advanced, and looking right and left of us for tlie red troAvsers of a Frenchman ; none were visible, yet still we proceeded till, towards evening, we reached a OUT OF IJOrNDS 341 places. Tlie \{\ bt'iuitit'ul lar — «a series ; but below, ck and bar- he sea, soou a few little )osite it, and man-of-war te beyond, a :ioned at this difficulty in its, as a per- kpiarters was mately found duty, who, proceed. I happily con- first page), rn. We were road beyond stated to he leology of the on, however, h the scenery of us for the ! visible, yet we reached a le small road-side chateau, which appeared (di^dblo as a restiii'4-]daee for the nii^'ht. it w;is in a half-pillau't'd stat", with lirokeu windows, and Hotrs strewn with tin' debris of chairs, and tables. Tiiere w.is a t(deral)le stabh' for the horses, who were soon tied up and diseussinL;- their well-earned eveuini;' meal. I busied myself in liijlitinLT fires, ])uttinLf larL,^e drawers collected from a war(lrol)e in requisition as chairs. We found a ca|)ital round table ready for our use, and a deal planic on a stand foruu'd an excellent side-board. Nicholson and Campbell, rather mistrUntiuL,^ the security of our retreat, rode on for a fcnv miles t(> recoimoitre. 'Thev reported on their ]-etui'U that thev had dis- covered nothiufjf. Our dinner consisted of a, kind of nondescript stew, made of slices of mutton inunersed, with pieces of onion, pressed vegetables, and a small tin of essence of beef, in water, and cooked in a camp fryin<;'-|)an. Some potatoes were set to boil on a fire made of broken furniture. Whilst dinini^^ we held a council of war as to our movements; to stay or run away, that was the question. We felt lialf convinced that we must be beyond the French advanced ])()Sts. We had seen no wag^'ons of the '' efjHijxn/r.^ 1,1!!'- taires,''^ (the constant attendants of the French army,) or even nudes carrying provisions or fodder. We were at least twelve miles beyond IJaidar. If, too, any of the Tart;u- inhabitants of tlie houses which we liad passed on the road, actuated by the hopes of u reward, should inform the Cossacks of our whereabouts, whiit could we do ? As for four or five of us resistinii: a larue n 243 CANADA AM) TIIi: ( HIMKA 1;?' tH i 'J i '% I! I i. ;■ iiriiird party ''f cMV.'iiiT, (»r iti;ikiii,n' ^^ood our retreat, wlicii pressed by tlieiii, (m oiir jiided horses, tlie idea (to me ;if le.'ist) a|>peiired prep<)>ter()Us. Siipposini,' we wei'e siii'roiuided. and made prisoners Ity tiie Iiiissians, wiiat should we liave to say iu our (h-teiicf wiieii we returned to Kn:L,da,iid, it" we ever j^'ot hack? We siiouhl proliahly all h)S(; our eommissions. On the othrr liaiid, it was jjh'aded tliat, if we reaJly weiv too much " out of hounds," we were so uniiiti'iitioiially ; tluit wo liad l)eeii mish'd l»y the ofTieer commandini,' at IMioros. If we sliowed U(» lii;ht towards the road, the clianees wore, tliat recoiinoiti'in^* parties of the enomy miLT'it oven pass dose by witlioiit diseoveriiif; us, and Hrially, tliiii seven Eiiuflislnnou could satisfactorily tlirash at lea.st double the niniibor of Cossacks. Our liorsos wore tired, and wo had made all our arranu'ements for tho niniit. ' It was finally agreed, therefore, that we should stay where we were, but that the whole party should be on the gni vice during the ni<>-ht, with revolvers close to their lieads, and an armed sentry shoidd perand)ulate the <jjarden. I was so completely done up with the fati_!L>'ues of the i3rovious night, passed j^rincipally on foot, and the long day's ride, that by general consent I was kindly omitted from keeping guard. I rolled a horse cloth round me, placed my revolver close to my Iiead, to be ready in case of an alarm, and soon fell fast asleep. I had previously arranged a tolerably comfort- able bed by help of an arm-chair, and bench (In)th stuffed), and an air pillow I always sleep on out here, and wdiich I have found invaluable. 1 have no doubt AN i:\( ITlNti IUI»K 2i;j our retreat, cs, tlie idea iH»i)<».viu<^ \vi' lie IJussiiin-^, (•(• ^vllell we We sliouKl ■ otliiT liand, lucii '• out of wc liail l)een oros. If Wf haiices wrvr, niio;lit even . finally, tliiii rash at least es were tired, the niL;ht. e should stay should be on vers close to peraiuhulate up with the iriucipally oil :>ral consent I I rolled a r close to my soon tell fast ahly conifort- l)ench (l)otli on out here, avc no douht my friends kept an exe'dleiit hmk out; hut, as luini- nately tliey were Uot ol>lii;e(l to ehallenn'e any oin-, i hey were uiialde to afford any prartieal pro(»t' of their vii^ilanee. Sonu after dayhi-eak we idS", diank suuie ff( eiuuM niuiK hed (ICCC l> f Itread, sadilled, ;ind rixh' aloni;' tile road towards tiie ixU^sians, to cxplori' still fui'tiier. 'Tiie ride was certainly very excitini;' and enjoyahle. Tlie luorniuL,^ was h»vely, and tlie air most exhilaratinu^ and ins[)U'inL;. llie I'oad woimd so much a'nn;^ tiic hase of a projecting,' spit of rock tiiat w(,' could at iio tiiue see far hefore tis. Still we advanced — the excitement everv nu>ment b(!comini' more infeiise. W'e were all eyes and ears. We scannetl every inch of the ;;rouiid (»u eitlier side, scrutini/iiiL;' sus|)ieiously every Imsli, and even goin^' so fai- as to ima^dne a small strc aju of water to h(.' the sword or bayonet of some !\ussiaii soldier, to which in fact at first it bore an uiipleasantlv stroni;' res«'nd»lance. At len:;th wo si;;iited a \illage half buried in sonie trees close to tiie water's ed^e. Several people were walking" about, and one or two were distinctly visiiile standi ul,' on a ruuf. and loukin;^' up at us with apparent astonishment. 'We held a council of war. It was maTufestly im- prudent to proceed, as if, as was exti'emely })i'ol)al)le, there were any Cossacks concealed in the vilhi^e, our retreat eoidd be com[)let(dy cut off. The ([uestion was put to the vote, and decided in favour of an advance by the casting vote of old .Air. Smith, wlio was in a state of intense excitement. On we went, therefore, Camp- R 2 •I( Ui CANADA *.ND TTFE Crj:MEA I 'I. i i u i -"■■ ' I Ix'll and myself mentally saying', " Wliat fools v>'e are!" After ridinij about a mile or less, we came to distinct traces of a Cossack picket near a bend of the road, whence a !L>"ood view could be obtained of the route we liad fallowed in our advance. Traces of watch fires, liay scattered over the half-charred bushes, and unmis- takable sij^ns of the recent presence of horses, shewed us clearly enou^-h where our friends had ])een. A few paces further, we encountered a Tartar, whom at first we took for a Cossack. He had l)read and salt in his hand, which he offered to us, and of some of which Nicholson ate. We questioned liim by o-estures, and repeatiuLi; the w^ords " Kusses," " Francese," as to whether tliere were Kussians or French ahead. From liis replies we learnt, that we were quite beyond the French outposts; and there were nothing but Kussiaii>; in front of us. 'At leno-th, after we had o-one four miles or so be- yond our cliateau, we decided on returning. We deviated to the right on our way l)ack, to visit one or two deserted French villas near the sea-side. The principal one was the property of M. Demidoff. It had been a ver}- pretty place, and evidenth- fitted up in a stvle of great luxurv and comfort. The situation was very fine, tliough a little difficult of access. We foiuid a large wine press, and materials for wine making ; a cabinet-maker's shop, fine stables and out- houses, and the remains of a very hantlsome decorated little chapel, wantoidy pillaged by the French and English cavalry, who had made a reconnoissance along IL; AM TARTIALITY 245 the road some days before. The priest's house, which was small, Lut furnished with taste and elegance, was united to the chapel, and had shared the same fate. Edwards found, seated peacefully and happily on a pile of broken chairs and tables, a very tame and pretty little white cat, with hazel eyes and pink ears. Puss, who illustrated the old saying, of a cat's never abandon- ing the house, was borne off in triumj)h, and now inhabits a tent on the heights. We had to clind) an almost inaccessible hill to regain our chateau ; and having breakfasted, packed our cut as we could, bear- ing away with us a coujile of chairs, a bookshelf, a form, and a drawer from a wardrobe as trophies. 'I am much annoyed at finding my name has not been given in General Simpson's despatch, though perhaps, considering all things, it is not a subject of jjreat regret. Nothin<i: can be more insultin*; to the arm} and the common sense of the country, than the manner in which general officers persist in mentioning almost exclusively their own staff — men who, in a general action, do little or nothing, and hardly one of whom left the shelter of the parapet (jn the 8th of .September. If I find I am not recommended for im)- motion, I shall try to ascertain the reason of the omission. Every one here says, I have been very badly treated. At the assault of the 18th of June, three euixineer officers were killed ; on the 8th of September, I was the only engineer officer who left the trenches. I performed uiy duty to the entire I :ill! hi 246 CANADA AND TIIH CRIJiEA ■J h . ( III 'I "I ;' I; t\ '1 .-•atisfacfion of all th(3 senior officers of my corps, several of ^v}l(>nl, Colonel Chapman, ^Nlajor Bent, and ]\Iaj(jr Stanton, expressed themselves to me very handsomely on the subject. I sent the other day the following letter to the Times on the subject of the scaling- ladders, most untruly described as too short by their correspondent. ' " To the Editor of the Times, ' " Sir, ^''Your Correspondent's letter describing the grand assault of the allied armies u^ion Sebastopol. though generally very acciu'ate and correct, contains a misrepresentation respecting the English attack upon the Kedan, which, as I was personsdly present through- out the assault, and charged by General Jones with the conduct of the scaling-ladders, you will perhaps permit me to rectify, through the mediiun of your columns. The scaling-ladders are stated in your Correspondent's letter to have been 'too short,' and it is further asserted that there were very few of theni placed round the salient. A simple statement of the facts of the case is the best answer to these assertions. ' '' Forty scaling-ladders, each twenty-four feet long, to be carried l)y 320 men, were collected on the morn- innf of the assault in the most advanced trench. iM'dit men were told off to each ladder ; and about lialf-an- hour before the attack took place, the late 3fajor liii :' !. LETTER TO THE ^Tnii:;:;' 247 rps, several iind INIajor landsomely followinLi le Kcaliiifj- O rt by tlieir descril)in;4 Sebastopol, coutaius a ittack upon lit. tlirouL>li- les with the aps permit ir cohiiniif*. cspnndeiit'.'^ ler asserted round the f the case is ir feet hmg, I tlie luorn- icli. height )ut half-an- hite ^Nfajor Welsford, in command of the party, ordered, at my request, eveiy man to stand or sit by the side of the ladder lie was told off to assist in carrying. ' " ]\[y duty consisted in conducting the party to the best point for placing th^ ladders, and I had about twenty sappers under n.y orders, provided with axes and crowbars for breaking through the abatis, and with picks Jind shovels for forming a ramp into the ditch, Sic. When the signal for the advance was given, the ladder party ran to the front as rai:)idly as they could. .... The fire of the enemy, however, was hea\y, and several ladders were left behind in the advauci-d trench. ' " The ditch proved much sligliter than had been anticipated. Its depth at the salient could not have been more than twelve to fifteen feet. * " I was ordered by General Jones to makc> the descent into the ditch, and the ascent of the escai'p, practicable. With the assistance of my sa})pers, I effected this in a few minutes, and numbers of men ran up the ramp thus formed, without using any ladders at all. When the first column mounted the salient, they drew several ladders after them. This may have led those who came up afterwards to imagine the number of ladders emploved much smaller than tliev rcallv were. Xot a inaii was delayed from want of means for moimting tlie escarp. Trusting that you will excuse my trespassing upon your valuable space, but feeling that it was only due to my corps and to myself to make ,.f. I< 1 m 1 1 ,;<■ lit! "1 I' 248 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA the statement that I have; done, and that you would be the first to receive such an exphmation, * " I liave the lionour to be, Sir, '' " Your most obedient Servant, ' ^' George Kanken, * " Lieut. Koyal Engineers. • " Royal Engineers' Camp, neav Sebastopol, October IG." ' Nothing so annoys and dispirits one as finding-, after passing through the most trying ordeals, everything misrepresented and unappreciated, and rewards and honours conferred on imdeserving men, who have done little or nothing to gain them. This miserable system I hold to be one of the chief causes of the inferiority of om* army, as an intelligent machine of war. Every one who has had the dangerous and arduous trench duty to do, is disgusted beyond measure at finding himself, instead of being distinguished, coiifuunded in a hetero- geneous mass, with the cavalry, who have not been imder fire for a year, and even with men on board ship, and at Kertch, who have been indiscriminately re- warded with " the Sebastopol clasp." Injustice and stupidity are seeds which never will produce good fruit, and until justice and common sense prevail, no one nuist feel surprised at misfortune and failures. 'Our movements since the grand final struggle have been principally confined to preparations for the ap- proaching winter. It would astonish a novice to see the prodigious amount of labour necessary for the form- rKErAI{I>G FOR WIMEli 24 y oil would be iition of a thoroiioLly oood road frum J5alucliivu to the front. Several thousand men are employed daily alon^; the whole lenj^th, under the superintendence of tlu- Army \Vork« Corps, and several captains of line regi- ments, specially told off to i)articular sections. 1 am the only officer of engineers employed, and I have be- tween 500 and (iOO men under my directions. M\' portion will be iinislied in ten days or a fortnight, its breadth varying, according to circumstances, fi-om twenty to twenty-four feet, well macadamised, with a margin of several feet on each side, sloping down to- wards deep trenches. Several large culverts are con- structed where, from the nature of the ground, thei'c appeared a probability of a great rush of water.' 1 i 1 i 1 1 J 1 250 CANADA AND Tltil CKDIEA chaptp:Pv XIV. AVINTEIl IN TJIE CKIMEA. 11 r ' ' Noveniljer 23rd. * rpHE variet}^ of residence is amazing in camp; almost J- every officer who could procure laboiu' has built himself a small snugo-ery. The general rule is to dig a square pit in the ground, and then edge it with a dwarf wall, cutting an opening at one side for a window and at another for a door. ' After the terrible explosion which occurred on the 15th, it was fully expected that the liussians would have made some decisive movement. We shall pro- bably remain in quiet winter quarters, jiaddling about in the mud, or wading through snow drifts ; we have on the whole been very fortunate as yet with regard to our weather. "We have only had one short taste of the Crin\ean winter, consisting of three or four days' decidedly disagreeable weather. The army is going on building, and making roads, as if it had several more weeks of sunshine and clear sky to depend on. The main communications are all but finished, and building is going on well everywhere. DOMESTIC ECONOMY 251 'omber 23i'd. iinip; almost )ur lias built iilo is to dig" ,^e it with a or a window rred on the isians would e shall iDi'o- dling ah<nit we have on egard to our taste of the four days' is Cf'^inc: on everal more id on. The md building ^ I genernlly have my hnnds full of work, and have reeentlv been re(|uesti'd, in addition to mv other duties, to act as Treasurer of the K. E. Mess in eau)]). We are about to get a hut put up, finish off a, stone eook- liouse, buy sheep, geese, S:c.^ and, in fact, start a regular mess in a rough and practical, but I am in hopes by no means unsatisfactory style. As yet 1 dine every night with a thick coat and cap on, in a single tent. Our soup (a concoction of beef-ljroth and onions generally speaking) is served up in an old Kussian wooden bowl of irregular proportions, and coloured a dingy red. Our candlesticks till (piite recently were bottles, our drinking cups, old jam pots. We live very well on the whole: and a fat goose w^ell stulTed is not an unknown thinn: with us. I have been endeavoiu'im:^ to make mv company of sappers comfortal)le for the winter. I get up wood from ^Sebastopol every day in a Maltese cart, which I purchased a few weeks since, and have two sawyers of my own company constantly at work sawing it into thin planks for lining the interior of the men's huts. I gave my colour-serjeant 10/. the other day to l)uy the men jjlates, and to get a couple of sheep, and half a dozen geese, etc., for Christmas Day. Turkeys do not thrive in camp, and are besides continually killed and eaten by the rats. 'Nov. 25th. — The wdnter, which withheld its approach longer than the most sanguine could have anticipated, is at length upon us. It began l)y several days' frost ; it has now turned w^et. To-day is one of the most drear v that could be conceived. A howling wind : I i; ' U' iu%.'j .«!_«*. '^B^-4r.«, I.- j!H 252 CANADA AM) THE CRDIHA torrents of min ; a muddy chaos witlioiit ; tents (|uiver- iiiL;' and Hupping" ; huts leakini,^ and soaked — hapj)}' tlie man, liowever, who like myself is in one. I slept in a tent till the 16th of November (just alx)ut three months from my landing). I was driven out of it more liy tlie rats than by the cold. I am now ensconced in a snug corner of a hut, with a good fire in it. It leaks a little, hut u'liiiporte, such matters are trifles. I only wish a tithe of the army were as comfortable as myself. The lints have not nearly all arrived. They are, it is true, being brought to the front as fast as they are unloaded ; and they require but a short time to put up; but it will probably be some weeks before the whole army is under roofs. Some regiments, the 88th and 44tli especially, have made themselves very snug, by build- ing thick stone walls round their wooden ones. Their vicinity to rocks and stones enabled them to do this. The 4tli regiment (close to us) have built several entire huts for themselves, and collected tiles from Sebastopol to roof them with. Want of wood, or rather of sawyers, has prevented them finishing them completely. I have had to drain the camps of the 3rd Division, and to send a report in respecting those of the whole army on the heights before Sebastopol. Of course this report necessitated a preliminary inspection, and I was com- pelled to visit every camp of the position on the heights. I have likewise had charge of the construction of a portion of road, and of the works near and about two water tanks of the 3rd and 4th Divisions. ' My health has been most mercifully preserved, my IMrROVEMENT.S 2j;3 reserved, mv promotion very rapid; and I liave every reason to be thankful to the (river of all good. I only wish I was more deservini; of the blessinjxs and favours bestowed on me. ' Deremher \sf. — Last night we had a gale of wiinl whieh blew down several tents, and recalk'd, to t]\oi<c who were hero last winter, recollections of the <Teat fjale of November 14th. The rain beat furiouslv iigainst my hut, but only penetrated slightly at one or two places. 'To-day the camp is a sea of mud. I have notict'd at several points that this mud only appears to lie superficially, and that imderneath it there is a tolerably hard surface of a kind of gravel, infinitely preferable to the mud, though not exactly perfect. I am effecting a variety of improvements; draining and paving; build- ing a stone guard hut; and forming, with a woodrn trough and a number of ship's tanks from Sebastopol, a supplementary tank, where the men may fill the water-bag carried by the mules with greater facility. I am having a step made along the line of iron tanks, to render the operation more easy, and am in hopes the men will derive benefit from it during the Avinter. The mud destroys the roads almost as fast as they are made. Nothing seems to stand but large rough paving stones ; the broken metal i«! (piickly transformed into mud. Huts continue to arrive from Ealaclava, })ut very many are yet required to complete the requisite nund)er. 'The Russians fire daily at the docks. The denioli- tipn makes but slow progress, although the men work (lay and night at it. ^-3a 2:>4 CANADA AM) THE CUIMEA ! . ! ■ *1 am l)nsy ^vttinjL;' live) stock and provisions for tlu' Hoval Kiiiiineers' mess. We have many difficuUlcs in our WMV, our snppers bein^" so complt-tely absorlx'd in adniinisterinn' to tlie j^'cneral wants of tlie army— super- intendini;' \V(»rkinL,f parties, giving;' dirrclions aliout liuts, <Sn'. — tluit we very seldom can <;'et tlicni to attend to our own wants. AVitli all this we enjcty the repu- tation of being the best eared for officers in the arm}'. '."My coh)ur-serjeant (Falkner) ol)lained to-day his appointment to the Land Transport Corps. Ife has been upwju'ds of thirteen years in th'e service witliout a sin<de crime on Ins defatdter's sheet. I feel a sincere pleasure in seeing merit thus rewarded. ' ])('C. 3r(/, — on which the weather was a l)riglit exception to that we had for some days, was marked by a grand steeple-chase and a dinner. The steeple- cdiase came off on some grounds not far from the jvamiescli road. It attracted a very large nundjer ui both French and Englisli oflficers, and was even graced with the presence of ■Marshal Pelissier and (Jeneral Codrington. The former came in his carriage-and-four, attended by a large staff, and preceded by a Spain with a turban, and wearing a pictures(iiie red cloak folded round him, <»n which two decorations shone conspicu- ously. iU>- duties consist in holding the JMarshafs liorse when he dismounts, and in heralding, l)y his singular and picturesque aspect, the approach of the General-in-Chief to the army. I had not seen Pelissier before, though just after the siege I bad imagined ..;A«.-irAL fBfflSSIER 355 sions for tlif (liflicuUits in y }il»s(irl)('il ill fU'inv— supi'i- )cti()iis al»ont liciii to iittcucl ijoy the rtpu- fficcrs ill tlif ed to-(l;iy liis ;. He lias been ice ^vitllout a feel u sinciTc was a bright ;, was inarke(l The steei)k- far from the re niunher ut IS even graceil and General L-iage-and-foiir, y a Spahi with cloak fohh'd one conspicu- the ^Nrarshal's aiding, hy his )proach of tlu' seen Pelissier had iningiiu'l Iliad at tbe jWalakhoft, and _ \<'i iiiin credit for per- ibrming a feat of agility w' -li wlien I hehelil the ■(■al iiKUi, liecanu- ([iiile out of tlie ([neslidii. 1 had heard that tin; .Marshal was fat, hut I was imj)re|»ar(d for the !uar\«llously hroad tigui'e which |»n'><iit('d itself to niy view, 'i'hc Mai>hal stood for the greater portion of the day on the shpe of a hill overlooking the races, lie, however, not (pute satisfied with thi-; distant view, towards the close of the day drove down to the brook, and stood up in his carriage to have a good view of the Jmiip there. [ studied his (Nam- tenance, and was struck by it. it is peculiar, l<ut full of sense and energy. I lis head is large, and covere(l with very shoi't and very whiti' bristles, which contrast oddlv with a skin bronzed by the sun of Africa. * Sir AVilliain Codrington, who rode on the ground luiostentatiously on a small grey horse, with scarce an attenihmt, chatted with the Marshal for several minutes. 'After the first race, the winning jock (raj)t. YeKer- ton, Iv.A. ) was led up to IVlissier by his own request, and complimented very politely by him on his success. The races on the whole went off admirably. There was a great deal of good fencing, and a great deal ol" de- termined j)luck. A heavy fall, which entailed a sevei'e sliaking and an embrowned and bespattered visage, was treated rather as a joke than otherwise, and the un- horsed jock, gaily mounting his steed, went boldly at the next jnmp. After two steeple-chases, at wliich none but English officers rode, there was a French flat '^ i. i '(.' 2.")fi CANADA AND TIIK CniMKA racp, (Hif of tlic most ridiculous cxliiljitinus ini:t<;iii;il>lc. llorsn-riU'liii;' is ccrtMiiily not tlic forte of the Frctir-li, ;ni(l tlicii" notions of" '" Ic sjxirf"' nrc l>y no means iden- tical witii our own. On tin's occasion, on little poniep. witli their peculiarly-t'ashioiu'd nether vestments, in sonu! cases witliout coats, and hrandishini^ laru,'c whips (whicli were coni|)romises between riding; and wai^'^oners" ones), they .Lfnlloped slowly alon;.% tlourishinpf, gesticu- lating', and tali<iug to their horses. *A (leneral was one of the jocks, and his admiriiiL! friends ridin;^; by his side incited liini to fresh effort-; )»y encouraginn^ cries of " Allez,, inoii Gfun'til,'' '■^ lirai'D, nioii Genera f,''' c"(:c., ail of which produced increased vociferations, and Avln*]) brandishing. It was difficult to refrain from laui>"hter, thouijli of course <;ood taste and politeness forbad it. However, I think the Frencli w^ere themselves sensible that they had not shoni' particularly, as a Colonel remarked in my hear- ing, that it was not " una belle journee pour I' France." ' One Frenchman alone contended in a steeple-cliase. His name was Viscount Talon, well known in sportinu' circles in England. Thongh very rich, he entered the Chasseurs d'Africjue as a private soldier, and in fact now is only a corporal. He w^as mounted on an iron grey pony, and rode with great courage, but nnhappily witli little success. At the first wall his horse fell, and the two next horses all Init jumped upon l)oth steed and rider as they lay sprawling on the ground. The Viscoimt, despite this unpleasant conunencement. 4 niMNd wiTir Tin: 3i:n nivrsioN 857 inouiitcd, and rode on a;^',iiii likt> a man. and I iic- licvc, at'trr onr or two nioi'c fnni)ilr», ^-ut inimd tin* conrx', or as sonic sav, ai-ldcvcd that result williout liirtlici' inisroitiUK' T\ \r three |»rMic'i|»;il raoes were won liv Mrfillerv •fill. officers, — ^'elverfoii, I>iddnl|tli, and I'at ('ain|»lii II. * III flie e\-enin;4', Ni''liolson and myself went todinner at file IJestanrant of tlie .*5rd Division. Ahoiif seventy or ei'difv officers were iireseiit, and on(f civilian — the TiiiK's' ('ori'esj)ondenf. The dinner passed olV veiy Well, flioiiuli flic wines wei'e indifterenf. We liad some capital siiiLjfinL;', und wound up the e\-enin'j; by ji ^'cuuine and liearty cliorus of d'cd N'V'v; f/if (Jiimi^ followed by three I'rifish cheers which made the weiki 11 rin)>- a2'ain. ^ Dec. 7fh. — Fine warm day, with rather a hi^ii wind. Iiode round the works in fiie niorniiiLi" : L;roniid in u most muddy stafe. Xicholsoii came up from Seliastop.d in tlie affenioon. Jle gives a most favoura,l)Ie account of the prooTcss of the demolition of the doek<. The Kussians fire less than they did on the W(»rkinL;' partii's. We are slowly geftinL;' fhe ground levelled for oiu' mess, hut our men are so much occupicil in the ofhei- camps that 1 fear some time iniist elajise ere we get oiii' mess satisfactorily ,>tarted. ' 7>c. H/A. — A variable day, showery but mild. Ou a reuimenfal court-martial in the morning: rode after- Viscount Tiilon. iin another occa.^ion, Vdi dr hi s own li()rs(^ a|raiust tlu; best l''ii^lisli riders for a i^-rrat liiu'dU' race o))i'ii to all nations, which ho won in yood stvU ■ EinTtjii h ^ ! i > I: '; i i 258 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA wards to inspect, at Col. CJordou's request, a dilapidated powder magazine near New Kadikci ; found it, though brimful of powdei', in a most ruined state, a l;u'ge hole in one angle, no locks for tiie doors, the walls giving way in various directions, and yet close to the main road and to that drunken })andemonium called, variously, New Kadikoi or Donnybrook, Dined early with Schaw, and went in the evening with him to visit the school established recently for the men. Found it was not a school niglit, so returned to my hut, where I read out some passages of Na}iier's animate»l and graphic des- criptions of J^attles in the Peninsula, and afterwards played a veiy tough game of chess with Schaw. Nights fine, with "■ stars so l)ri*ditlv shininj;:, because they've nothing else to do."' It is quite a r< iief to see the blue sky again, though I fear we shall have but a glimpse of it. 'Dec. 9tJi. — Wet in the morning, but fine and mild in the afternoon. Attended service in our rude church, composed of old marcpun^s and tents, stretched over some rough scantling between two stables: and itself, I believe, on week days, used as a stable for ciuiiels. In the afternoon, when the weather cleared, I rode "Zouave" to the KiMlan. The old siege works were very muddy, anil partially dilapidated. The light was thrown very beautifully on the formidable Eussian works; and I do not recollect ever seeing the Malakhofif looking so noble and inq)osing. Every end)rasure was distinctly marked by its inangular dark patch of shadow. Nichol- son was up during the morning from iSebastopol. He THE LAND TRANSPORT CORPS 259 dilapidated I it, tli()Hi,fh I larL,'e liole s giving \v.'iy ? main road d, variously, with Sc'liaw, t tlie sc'liool it was not a •(' I read out orapliic dt.'s- d afterwards haw. Nights cause they've ) see the hhie ut a glimpse ine and mild rude church, tretched over ;: and itself, for camels, ired, I rode rks were very it was thrown » works ; and ff looking so was distinctly dow. Xiehul- astopol. He promises an ex])l(»si(ni in the dockyard in a w^eek or ten (l;iys. Sir William Codi'ington called at the c;nu]> in the eveniuLf to see Colonel (iordon. He said, he had received no official intimation of the fall of Kars, and that he was in hopes that it mi-rht have held out. Kumours of its fall are, however, I believe, rife. — Time will show. Night, starlight and ]deasant. 'Dec. lO/A.— A beautiful day. A light frost in the morning — warm in tho ndddle of the day. Little effect, how^ever, apparently produeed on the mud and puddles. Sent my cart with servant on bat ]>'Miv to Balaclava for sheep, Jtc. Atteiuh-d (rencral I']yi'e*s levee at 11 a.m. He retjue.sted me to confer with the head of the Land Transport Corps, attached to the .Srd Division, with the view of ascertaining what assistance I could afford him in rooting-in the stables. Cobtnel Edwards, IHth Regiment, asked me to look at ono of his large hospital huts, which had been much shaken by a recent gale of wind. I complied with his recpicst, and also went three times through the nuid to the Land Transport Corps, without finding the Captain. 'I inspected the stables, however, in company of the second in command. Walls had been built, and a small portion of roof fixed, scantily: but nearly all the animals (4(i() in number) were without cover. Planks and nails were required. Some were supposed fo hn Oil theli' 't''('i/ from England, but nothing positive hiul been heard respecting them. The f.and Transport Corps has b?en recently very much worked, and their horse.5 and mules, parth^ from this cause, and parth', s 2 |I ! i't ^1 200 CANADA AND THE crjMEA I cannot but tliink, from want of proper care and attenti(»n, have suffered a p'eat deal. ' [t became manifest, tliat if tasked in tliis manner mucli lonu^er they would eventually become ineffective, and that the army would ajj^ain liave to contend with the paralyzing' influence of deficient transport on the resumption of liostilities in the spring. An order was accordin^'ly issued to spare them as much as possible, an(l fatigiie parties of several regiments are marched down to l^alaclava daily to l)rini>- up their huts and stores to the front. The march there and back cannot be less than from twelve to fourteen miles. I was much pleased at finding that the men performed it with ease, ami plodded over the mudd}' roads with their long ])oots, carrying for six or seven miles portions of their huts, and occupying but a few hoars in the task. I think that this marchinu' wdll be a u'reat benefit to the army. The more exercise the men take, con- sistent with health, the ])etter. I visited Denne at the small-arm anuuunition Ijrigade, and lunched with him. I also paid two visits to the magazine of the li'fr. siege train, and rode round all my working parties. Tilings are going on, on the whole, satisfactorily. 1 took a walk with Cooke in the eveninsf. Schaw and he dined with Scratchley and myself, and afterwards came over to my liut, where I read them a few chapters of the immortal Pickwick. To l)ed about 11.30 r.M. ^ Dec. Wth. — Saw the chief of the Land Transport Corps, and called on (leneral Eyre to report on his uestiou. 1 had mentioned, at an interview^ on the AN AFTERNOON IN THE DOCKS 261 r care and previous day, tliat it might be dcsiraMe to establish a saw-pit ill the diteh <>t' the Kedan, wliere the heavy beams and timbers, which tixed and sup])orti'd \]\o Eiissian bomb-proof barracks, might be sawn up into portable planks and rafters. lie told me, to-day, he had suggested that this sliould be done. I said l would ride to Sebastopol, and tind out where wood could be most easily in-ocured ; and left Iiim, after receiving his thanks for my cigar, and majis. I rode straight to the Eedan after our interview, and gro))ed into some of the old casemates there. The beams and tind)ers seem so securely fixed, that some difficulty wouhl ])e expe- rienced in getting them out. I found, however, that there were a good many rafters in the White ihiildings apparently sufneient for the required ])urpose. After this inspection I rode to the docks, where working parties of both French and iMiglish were busily en- gaged in sinking shafts and driving galleries, in spite of very great difficulties, caused by springs breaking through into the shafts and inundating the ga1lerit\'-. I heard a poor soldier had been di-owued on the pre- vious niuiit, bv fdling into a sliaft with six feet of water in it. ,Men were engaged pum[)ing water out sufficiently lov>' to admit of work being performed. I ^pent an interesting afternoon altogether in the docks. It seems that our demolition will be nmi'e complete than the Freueh. We have given ourselves miieh more trouble than thev have. 'The svstem of demolition appears very siuiple: — charges, proportioned to the lines of least resistance. ; I r 262 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA pl;iC(Ml at intervals of twice its len^-tli Ijeliiiid the re- tainiiiL!' walls. I lunched with two or throe officers of gi(j- the 18th, iu the hoiise formerly occupied \ty the Angl French Com mission. P>om a small l)alcouy outside, I was able with a telescope to scrutinize very minutely the formidalile line of Kussian batteries which frown grimly from the north shore. I was told not to expose myself too conspicuously, or the Kussians would pro= hably fire on the house, "vvhich was in easy ranire of most of their batteries. They sent, in fact, shot and shell every now and then, within a few feet of it, and one of the latter most disao'reeable messengers had alighted only a day or two before in the back yard. I could S(>e Jxussian sentries most distinctl}', and even the gunners loading and pointing their guns, The Russians fire continually on the town and docks, every now and then wounding a few men. No notice w^hat- evei', however, is taken of their fire. ^ IJec. I'Mh. — A fine frosty morning. There had lieen a dehige of rain the previous night, which did some daiiiao-e, carrv'ni; away two strouu'ly-bmlt brido-cs over a stream in one of the ravines. I walked out with i^chaw a.nd Cooke to the J^astion du Mat, where wo studied the Russian defences. •• Behind the ]?astion du Mat are numerous batteries and parap(^ts, and the ridge at the end of which it stands is swept by the fire of an indented line of tlio most formidable fianking batteries. We found some French r(\giments hutted in patched-up little houses just behind tlieir works. We returned l)y the Creek LECTUKE ON THE f'RDIEA 263 batteiy, which had l)Cen a grc-it deal injured l)y tlie flood, i^art of the phitl'onn, v.V:c'., havinj^ heeii swept away; just outside was a pcrfeet little lake. ' At () r.M. I went to hear a lecture dcliven-d by the Chaplain-General to the sappers, on tin; History ot" the Crimea. l[e went back to the earliest i)eriod of history, and described the country from those days to tlie present time, as the theatre of perpetual warfare, and as con- tinually inhabited by barbarous tribes, drivini^- one another out in turn. People from Iferaclea in Asia Minor crossed the Bhick Sea, and occupied tlu; very heights on which we are now encam))ed, as far back as 800 B.C., and Mithridates l)uilt a wall to protect their successors from the invasion of a wild tribe of the northern steppes, who dashed in, in search of booty, as soon as the |)rosi)erity and wealth of their mcjre peaceful neighbours became temjjting. 'Tlie Crimea was at one time in the power of the Romans; but they exercised but little control over so distant a proviucf^. The Ivussians under Princt' N'ladi- mir attacked the Crimea, and licsieged Sebastopol .-ibout the third century. They took the place then by cutting off the water of the town, after a siege of many nudiths' duration. Vladimir was a very able as well as a very earnest man. His mind was much discjuietc'd by religious feeling, and he strove zealously to discover which (.'f the various creeds professed by ditlerent nations was the best. Whilst engaLCed in wai-like operations in the Crimea, he ilespatclied ambassadors to Constantinople, to make in<iuiries respecting the I ' I , \ i'. I' 264 CANADA AND THE CIUMEA Christian faitli. Tlicv \\cv<' iiilrodiu'cd iii*"o tlic inao-- infic'L'iit church of St. Sophia, now the L;T('at temple of .M ihonietanisni, and were struck witli achniratioii, pro])ably more witli tlie sph'iidour of the W(»rs]iip tliaii by its spirit and njianini;'. Theii' report and the efforts of a missionary converted \'ladiiiiii', who was l)a{)tize(l lifter the capture of Sebastopol, it is supposed, on a spot ch)se to the montii of the liarl)our. He did not ictain possession of liis coiK^nest : a„nd notliiny," more was heard or seen <»f the l^ussians in the Crimea till the time of Catherine II. The lecture was, on tlie whole, vei interestinu". J ^ Dec. HUh. — Old Winter has us at 'enulh ;i Jus clutches, and we bc-'in to see that we shall have to roU!J-!i it a little in our wooch-n huts. For the last two morn- ings, I liave had to break the ice in my bath before washing ; my ink I was compelled t) thaw before I could write my name to the INIorning State of the C( )m- pany ; an( 1 even now, at 11.1.3 a.:m., there i s a coveruiLT of half an inch oi" so of ice on some water at the further end of till' room, which a]>pears to exhibit no C!)nvictinu that the temperature in that locality has yet risen above yet had no cold com[)arable to that ?^'2°. We 1 lave as of Canada, and I do not imagine that my experience of severe weatlier will be nuich increased b}- a winter in the Crimea. I have driven out at (^)uebec with the mer- curv more than 40° l)elow freezing point. The m-eat difference will of course consist between the dwellinu's here, and in Canada. A wooden shed, with nothing but a wood fire to warm it, is of course a j>-reat contrast to a MAKING TiriNGS COIMFOUTABLE 205 solid stdiio liousc, with stovt's and tire [)!aces, douljlc doors and douMo winilows. As ;i field ofticcr, liowcvcr, my allowance (»t' fuel is la,ri,^o, and with the assistance of wood brought tVdni St'liastopol iu my own cart, I dare sav I shall do very well. We have coals, and eharcoal, ulternately with wcmxI, issued as rations. I met to-day French soldiei's earryinn' old ^^abions, and roui^'h j)ieces of plank or timber. They are evidently rather hard pressed to procure firewooil. The French soldiers do not receivt^ half the attention ours do. 'All the Russian accounts f have seen of the opera- tions of the war ari' much more true and rational than the l)ond)astic descri2)tions in our newspapers. They ticar, I think, witli a contempt, in a, certain degree well merited, our magniticent achievement of capturing- the little fort of Kinburn, with a naval ibrce sufficient with a few discharges to blow it almost to atoms. 'There are no anuisements here just novr ])ut read- ing, and walking. I expect Sir William Fyi-e (the General of my ])ivision) in a few minutes, to inspect the huts of n~iy Company to-day. I have postponed the dinner hour, that he may see the men at their meals. I have been ena])led to make my fellows pretty conifort- n,ble. With wood I have brought up in my ouii cart, I have managed to lirie their huts, and have given direc- tions for the construction of tables. I have also bought each of them a tin plate for dinner ( /^r'/b/v; tiny had nothing), and stone drinking uuigs. These comforts, with sixty or seventy volumes td" light reading, and I' !;» 266 CANADA AND THE CiaJIEA tlu' prospect of a j^ood Christniiis diruuT, have, I tliink, pnxliurd iu some measure the effect 1 desired, and ma(h' my men mon; contented, and well behaved. If you treat nu n like hrutcs, you cannot wonder at their feclini,^ disn'usted with themselves, and l)ehavinL( so as to justify the treatment they receive. I have one or two "shocking bad characters" amonjjf my little party of sixty, but I do not despair alto,L,'etlier of any one of them. 3Iy Serjeants (one in particular) are very kind to the men, and hold the same opinion that 1 do, that persuasion is better than force. ' One of my corporals is now enga^'ed in cutting a monument (entirely his own design) in stone, to the memory of all the Sappers and Miners who have been killed, or died during the war. It will be erected in the Sap'pers' l^urial (Iround. The officers of the Engi- neers out here have subscribed very liberally, in conjunction with the Sappers, to erect a joint momi- nient to the memory of all the officers and men of the corps who have perished since the commencement of the war to the fall of Sebastopol. A committee to select the sculptor or architect, and choose the design, has been appointed in London ; and I hope when I retiu-n home (if it please God I should ever do so) to see a worthy memorial to the gallant fellows wlio have fallen out here. * Dec. 2\sf. — We have had two or three davs of most severe weather. On the lOtli the thermometer fell below zero at day-break, and even in the hut where I lodge, the mercury, though assisted by the warmtli of a VERY ROUGH WKATKF.R S67 ave olio or wood fire, did not rise liii^dier tliau 13'' at (S a.m. TIic wind blew witli penctriitiiig shuvpncss from the X.K. The sky ^vas <^Yoy and gloomy, and the weather LTeiie- raliy resembled that of a <lay in the midst of a Canadian winter, when a storm is just abont to l)urst in fury over tlie landseaj)e. In tlie afternoon, in spite of tlie eold, I walked with Cooke, Schaw, and Seratchley to Sebastopol. We met a lon<4' procession of French and Kni:;lish sol- diers, many of them (poor fellows I ) looking" half frozen, carrying" old beams and planks, windows, door frames, and even staves of barrels for fuel. One poor little Fr(ii((^uls had the end of his nose regularly frost-bitten, and I had the satisfaction of restoring animation to it, acc(n-(liug to the Canadian fashion, by the judicious application of a snow-ball. The little man bore the operation very quietly, though he confessed tliat hv, burnt a little. We found Sebastopol much warmer than the heights on which we were encamped. The water of the harbour -^^as steamini>' like boilini>: water, as I have seen that of the St. Lawrence on a very cold day. On our way back, I fell in with a drunken soldier (^f the 18th Kegiment, who, with the assistance of a corporal of the 14th, of the same name as myself, 1 secured, and finally trettinsj: more aid, had taken to the i>uard-rooni. Several men, it appears, have; recently been frozen to death by lying down, when drunk, to sleep on the snow. The sudden ciianu'ein the weather has caused much sufterinii' in the army. One poor fellow, on sentry, had both liis arms frozen, having, incautiously, mountf^d guard with- out his mits. Tw(j men, even in one of <nir hospital-huts. 208 CANADA AND THE CKDLE.V ]); h waniii'd !>y ;i st«»V(.' in liic criidT, ;iu(l supposri) t" he v<'ry t'iiiui"iiit;ilil(', wcrr actually tVost-liitteii : ami if is said that, in oiu' way or dtlici'. almiit lOOO men iiavc siif'fci'cd. ( )r(lr)'s have liccii issued for tli(> institution ot' a, strict search after stra;4'i;'lers ami drunken men al»sent from cvcnin!;' parade, with a view <d' dinunishinL;' the chance (tf casualties from ex])osure. ^ J)<'c. '2'.)fil. — A thaw, and most lovely day. Attended Church Service in tlie niorninii;, and walked in the atter- noon with Cooke to Sebastopol, to see the ruins of tin.' dock demolished hy tin; I^'n-ncli. The town and hai'liour lookeil charnunLj in the hri-^ht sunshine. The demoli- tion had succi'e(led veiy well. 1 <»nly ho{)0 oi'i's may be ecpially siu-cessful. Xo stones flew more than about 100 yards, vertically : and the ])iers and walls contiguous to the explosion were ([uite uninjured. The troops were withdrawn early in the niornini;-, to Ix; out of the way, in the event of the enemy's openins^' a lieavy fire. Had another look at the Ivuskies with a telescope. There were about twenty of them collected at (he water's e(lL;'(% close to Vdvt Michael. They ha,ve liuiit a look-out po.sf on the summit of one of their most elevated works. Every time I look on the Northern forts they a[)pear stroni^ei'. Theyseeni beautiful, — constructed and hnished with sh.irpness and <lelicacy. The nii^ht is most lovely. There is a <^-lorious full-moon shining now', and the sky is studded with stars. ''Dec. 2()th. — Christmas-day has passed and gone in the Crimea. It was a day without incident worth not- ing. The weather was very fine and mild for the time ll^: CniasTMA.'>i I>AY 269 () f \ (';ir, . AttciitK'd ;i tlir attrr- uius (if the 11(1 liMi'lidiir 'he (IciiKili- ot'rs may tliaii altniit 11(1 gone in worth iiot- or the time C( We liad service in Hie iiiMniinu', .'hk i r. Ill niipiiiiy with nearly all my lUMtliei- olhei r- m cami), took tlie sacnuiieiit. The iiji'ii of my eoiii|iaiiy had ;i jj-ood Christmas diinicr, of wliid I a sinco I had IVell tliem proveil one of the rhief iii^"redi(nt<. 'I'lay had arrani^f'd, and e\-eii decorated a hut Ncry eoiiil'<»rtaI>!y, and Were all seated toL''ethei" round llio Li-ood fare, spre.'ul out on ii coiiph' of loll-;- tallies, when I |»aid my visit. After wisliin!4' them a merry Ciirist mas, and iiKiuirinL;' wlietlier tliey had a '^'owd <linmr, I drank their healths in a glass of slierry. offered me on a glass plate l»y tlie c'olour-serireant. One of the men then called out Tliree dieers tor ^Iaj<>r I\ai,ken,'" which was Iieartily respondvd to, and in the midst of v.hich I with(h'ew. 'In tlie afternoon T nceonipani''d Colonel Jient, Ewart, Schaw, ('ooke, Scratchley. and (Jraham to Inkermann. ^\'e \isit(>d the Kngineers' hnrial-ground at the (dd right attack camp, and continued our walk to the redoubts on the heights, oj)posite Inkermann. held bv the French. The view of the town and harlmur of ►Sebastopol from the heights wc were on v.as v^ry fine. Our position at Inkermann seems a naturally strong one; ])Ut there were, I was surprised to find, very few ji'uns mounted in anv of the redoubts we saw. 'Our Christmas dinner, the component ])a.rts of which were furnished ])y various contributions, had well nigh pr oved a failure. Fate seemed, in fact, to frown on our efforts. A fat turkey, which we had permitted to in- dulge our imaginations with the hope of de\uuii.ig, wa.s IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■^1^ IM "" IM L8 1.25 1.4 1.6 === : M 6" ► % 7] '^^'^' *^.^^' '/ -^ Photngraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 if 4 c^ •i i i 1 ■! I I i 1 270 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA stolen on the 24th, and a hanncli of i^'oat, destiiKMl for the other ''ji'^ice de ri'msiance,''' was likewise uncere- moniously walked off with l)y some scoundrel on Clirist- mas-day itself. When I returned from my walk ;i,t 3.30 P.M., I found little or no preparations had been made. Cooks and servants were missing', or the worse for liquor, and our prospects anything but cheeriiio-. A goose and a shouhler of goat supplied tlie missing dishes. I worked like a servant, and laid the table, drew the wine-corks, &c., myself, till shortly after six we had the unexpected satisfaction of hearing, spite of all difficulties and disappointments, dinner was read3\ ' Our party was ten in number (Colonel Gordon, Major Kwart, ]\Iajor (>ooke. Major Nicholson, (.'aptain Schaw, Dr. Dowding, Lieutenant Graham, Goi-don, Scratchley, and myself). Our dinner consisted of soup, a goose, a shoulder of goat (nearly raw), a hain, a tongue (bad), a ])reserved chicken (very seedy), and plum pudding, gooseberry tart, and stewed apples. It went off very well on the whole, and was kept up suc- cessfully till between eleven and twelve o'clock. * Bee. 2dth. — Cold day; rode in the afternoon with Scratchley to the left of the Russian works, visiting the (Quarantine Fort, and the French batteries erected in its vicinity. It was the first time that I had been to see this portion of the Russian lines. I was struck with the crenated wall, evidently the commencement of a per- manent chain of works lor the defence of the citv. Mr THE LAST DAY OF TKE OLD YEAR !:i 'stincil for id UTiccrc- on Chri.Ht- V wrilk <'i,t had been ' the worse b cliccrinL!,'. \w missiiijjj the table, :ly after six irinj;-, spite iimier wis el Gordon, on, Captain u, Gordon, ted of soup, a ham, a eedy), and apples. It apt up sue- )ck. w The Quarantine Fort is a lar<;-e, lon;^', and narrow work, with broad ditches, strongly palisaded, and with revet- ments of bricks formed of clav and straw, veiv neativ built up, and combined with masonry walls. I^'ort Con- stantine appeared quite close to us. The French bat- teries are well-biiilt, and mount a number of '^nn^ and some veiy heavy mortars, 1 tearing to all appearance principally on Fort Constantine. The solidity and tinish of the l\ussian works are as cons|)iciions and admirable here as at all points of their wonderful lines. We Tjassed throuuh the Cemeterv, the scene of a i^reat struggle between the French and Kussians: the irrave- stones were much injured, and the ground strewed with broken stones: there I saw a marble monument to the memory of ]Mrs. I'pton (wife of the English engineer who constructed the Docks) and her two 5"oung children. The inscription was in Englisli and Kussian. *In the eveninii' I went to Ewart"s hut, to coiisidt Avith him about ordering some wine, and on my ictuiii, I read a novel called The Ileail of ihe Fainil;/, which I liked on the whole; it is evidently written by a woman, as the insight into female character is very (hn-p, and the delineations are sometimes both delicate a)id beau- tiful. How seldom one meets with the heroines of novels in real life! those pure, loving women whom we picture to ourselves in day dreams, and so ardently wish to encounter. 'Lee. 'Slst, H.oOp.m. — Ten minutes or less ;nid 1<S.3.> is over. I will not moralise on the subject, but express !^ kl: 1 \l: 272 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 51 hearty and fervent wisli tliat IH.jd may l»n)ve a ])ri;^'l\t contrast to this hist eventful yeai". The Kn^>lish papers tell us that Europe is balanced between peace and war. A few days will decide the j;;-reat (piestion, and the destinies of thousands, periiaps millions of human })einu-s. What a state of anxious suspense ! ' I ^ (if bmiian 273 CHAPTER XV THE NEW YEAR. ].i: '/\UR mess is at length, spite of difficulties and \J struggles, fairly started. I have almost the sole direction of it, and go into " my kitchen " and confer with my cook on the important subject of dinner re- gularly every morning after breakfast. The difficulties of house-keeping are somefhlnf/, wdien, as is often the case, messengers are sent on vain expeditions for four- teen miles or so, over the muddy roads, and return almost empty-handed, — when a cart is two days and a night bringing up some wine from Xazatch bay, — when two journeys to Kamiesch are necessary to procure a dozen scare-crow fowls (at the modest price of 4^. M. each). I am expecting supplies from Baidar, Sinope, Constantinople, and Malta. ' Being the fortunate possessor of a cart and mule of I my own, I manage to accumulate, by a series of efft)rts, ft a certain stock in hand, — a few sheep and goats, some flour, potatoes, &c. ; so that I do not suffer under a ^ |! I I 274 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA daily pressure, and am I'rco to devote my jiowers to tlie iiitiire. Had we to (le|>end on (lovernment sii]>[)lies, we slioidd, even now, have salt [)ork and Ix'i-t" to live on four d;iys out of the seven, and get bread only once or twice a week. 'The poor French soldiers suffer a gi'eat (lc;il, tln^ugli nothiny; is said of it. There is a vast coiitiast between the conditions of the two armies. Our men l;it, healthy, and both well and warndy ela.d and lod^'ed : the Fn-m h pale, thin, and many of tlaim still under canvas. It is sometimes melancholy to sec; the poor fellows lookiii;^ half starved, though still soldier-like and resolutf, hover- ing about an English camp, in(|uiring anxiously if there is any "^<6t*M<7" to be sold. They are too ])roud to accept it as a gift. I do not think this suffering is uni- versal through the whole French army; but I am sure a great deal of real want ;uid sickness exists, perhaps n(>t more than nught have been expected under the cir- cumstances, l)ut still painful to C(mtrast with our own prosperity and abundance. ' Last night, in company with a large gi'oup of Engineer <jfficers, I witnessed some exj)losions in the docks. The charges were fired by galvanic batt'ries, and the result I miderstand is very satisfactory. It was so dark that no one was able, at the time, to see its effect. Our walk home through the liedan, and over rough and difficult groimd, was rather hard work. 'January 6th. — No incident worth mentioning has occurred within the last two or three days. 'V^^^'t KAZ.VTCII BAY 275 'Oa January 4tli (my twonty-ciglitli birtliday) Harns- ton (Hiit'd witli me. ' Yt'sterday I nnl' with Scratchlcy to Kazntch ])ay, to visit a (U'taclinu'ut of mv (•()ini)aMv at work tlicn'. The load to Kamic'sch was crowdL'd witli Froncli wa'^L^^ons laden with liay, l)r('ad, ^.^c, and we eueouutert'd likewise large parties of soldiers carryinL;' firewood, and strinL:> of mules with chests containing boiled beef, swung over their backs like panniers, — a French soldier here and there, by way of making his animal more contented, sitting complacently on its back, in the ct'utre of the said <;hests, and seemingly well satisfied with his temporary throne. ' Kazatch ])ay I liad not seen before. It is a small liarbour. A miniature dockyard, and a few huts occu- pied chiefly by marine guards, or used as stores or offices, are the only buildings visible. Thei'e were two floating batteries, looking like pictures of clumsy solidity, in liarbour. These had arrived from Eng- land subse(|uent to the bombardment of Kinburii. My Sappers are engaged in making landing piers for the navy, and in erecting huts. The wind rose and be- came piercingly cold in the afternoon, and we were not sorry to get to camp again. * To-day, after church, I walked witli four or fivf> others for a couple of hours. The whole country is now covered with snow to the depth of a foot or mor<\ The sleiiihinu" would be excellent, were there sleighs to drive. I think of fitting one up. T 2 I i |) ; ■ ' \ 'j:g CANADA AND THE CKIMEA ' J((u. [2th. — Two days a<;(» I rode with Scratclilcy to Ka!iiar;i, to ])ay ^Nfoiitiij^uo and ICdwards a visit. I ioiiiid the Sardinian army very snui^dy Initted ; tlitir camps perfect models of neatness, and <(ood. Mai;y French rcij^iments were still under canvas. JM-'nta^^ue and Edwards had effected jj^reat im])roveinents in their little settlement. Their " drawing room " was decorated with green fir branches and si)rigs of misletoe ; the initials V. U., with a scroll partially encircling them, giving a loyal air to the apartment. 'On Tlinrsday I attended a meet, and rode across country on my little mare INIargaret, in a grand paper hunt. The ground was very heavy, and took it out of the horses considerably. My nag carried me excellently well, and took her jumps in a style that excited the admiration of the field. ' Last night I ploughed my way, with the assistance of a lantern and a very limited allowance of moon- light, through the mud, to see the Amateur Theatricals of the Fourth Division. The audience were smoking vigorously when we arrived, though the premonitory notes of the orchestra told us we were in timie. We saw, and laughed heartily at, two capital farces, capi- tally acted. The ladies' parts were wonderfully well sustained. The fainting fits and " interesting agitation" were perfect. rat ell ley to ii visit. 1 ted ; tlicir i)(l. M:ii;y JSr-^^'ntamie its ill tlu'ir H decorated sletoe ; tlie :'lin<j^ them, rode across ;'raiid paper ok it out of J excellently excited the e assistance e of moou- Theatricals re smoking' premonitory time, ^^c arces, capi- erfuUy well g agitation" I AMATEUR THEATIJICAL^i This was the play-hill : — THEATRE ROYAL. — Fourth DmsioN, This evening Her Majesty's sonants will perform TO PARIS AND lUCK FOR £5. Mr. Samuel Snozzle Mr. Charles Markiiam SpRiacjixs Lieut. Spike, R.M. Pounce, a detective ojicer Fanny, niece to Sprigoins .Joseph . . . . Guard Superintendent . Clerk of tue Teleorapii Mr. Lacy, (i^ird Re<rinienl. Capt. Nicholas, 4(>tlj Regt. Dr. Howard, 2()tli Regt. MR.IlARUiNaTON,RitlrP>ri;.M(le. ]Major Somerville, r.Sth Regt. Mr. Hamoni), 4(5tli Rej>t. Capt. Rlakeney, 4stli Reo-t. Mr. LiaiiT, (58th Regt. Major Womijwell, 4t>tii J{egt. To bo followed by BOX AND COX MARRIED AND SETTLED. Box, a retired printer Cox, a retired hatter Mrs. Box Mrs. Cox Mrs. Bouncer . Capt. Earle, 57th R<>pt. Ma.ior Garrett, 4»5tli Re<rt. Mr. Lac , (y-\ri{ Regt. Mr. Saundi;rson, Osth Real. Mr. IIamond, 40th Regt. Stage-Manayer. — Major Lord A. G. Russell, Rifle Brigade. Prompter. — ^Iajor Wombwell, 4GLh Regiment. Scene-Painter. — Mr. Shaw, 21st Fusileers. Doors open at half-past Six : performance to commence at Seven precisely. irs CANAKA AM) Till: Clil.MF.A |i 1 I i 1 , ', < i |;-i: ' . i i :| ! ( i ! ^ lu • Tiusc little ))r(.':il<s in the monotony of rrlnionii life (!>» one i;i>(m1. 'riicrc ''Viis !i iMiiiiour, (•ri<^nniitii)^' iVnui tlic FniH-li iie;i(l-(iuart<'rs ycstiTtlny, thai tlic liussi.m.s iiitcii'lc'd uttackiiiir •mr position at tlavbrcak this morn- ill<^ Tlicv have not done set liuwcvcr. Tlio liriirj; IVoiii t!ie Noith >\\i>n' is nnich slacker than it fornioily was. ',hiii. IS/A. — On till! ]C)\]\ we entertained at dinnfi- three Danish and three Spanish officers of engineers and artillery. The ])arty nnnil)ered twenty-one altogether, and passed of[' very well. The seni<jr officers of both ])artii's s.it on eitlier side of onr Colonel. The Spani.ird was a rather formal individual, jxdite and prond, in facf thoronghly Spanish. He spoke with a reseived for- mality, intended doubtless for di«_aiitv, hut which tn Englishmen, accustomed to an almost unreserved freedom of intercourse between all ranks of gentlemen, appeared rather an excess of stiffness. He was, however, polite and gentlemanlike in his bearing, and seemed to enjoy the; entertainment thoroughly in his own (jniet way. '■ Of the other dons, one was a lively rattlinglittleCuban, /( CaiiUnnic (V Ai'fiUcrie Villason,who smoked cigarettes and conversed in sprightly manner; the other, quiet and affable, always ready with a smile, and an expression of assent or approval. The Danes were contrasts to these. The chief (whom we nicknamed Canute) smoked 2)hilo- sophically and spoke little. The others were fidl of professions of i)leasure, Otc, and very anxious to obtain information. ''Jan. 22 lid. — The rumours of peace which reached the camp yesterday have received still further confirma- ' PROSPKrT OF TFACE 279 tion. ('t»I. Frois^art, tlic rMiiim;ni(liiiLC ciii^iiifcr of tlir Fn'iirh Jiriiiy, told Col. (r.tidoii that bo liinisclt' ii;ul soen a (losj»;»tc]i adflrcssod t«» Marslml I'clissicr, statiiiu* that I\iis<i;i h;i<l accepted the terms ottered by the Allies : and be further said that be had Li,iven orders to press forward the deiiiolitioii of the locks and wharves in Sebastop(tl, as the operations iiiiubt at any inranent be siispende(b These are rrrcwt and <4lorions news, if they can be relied on. I most sincerely trust that better and ])riL^diler times are about to dawn upon us. I think the bard fijj^ht lias not been fouLcht in vain — that we have tauf,dit Russia a lesson that she will not soon for<:fct — thrown lier back fifty, perhaps a hun(b-ed, years in her careijr of conquest, which slie so conveniently styles her destiny. ' We an^ full of doubts and conjectures as to what may be done next. Though Kn^^laiid may not quite have fulfilled th(^ anticipation of that restless, (>xif/c(fi)f, dissatisfied, and not over wise-portion of her citizens, which mav be desinrnated the John Hull class of her subjects, she occupies, nevertheless, a most imposing attitude at the present moment. Thorougldy roused, tlioroughly in earnest, straining every sinew of h(;r huge frame; with trade and finances most flourishing: with a navy and an army such as, perliaps, she never had before; what, in human probability, would slie not be able to accomplish ? It will, perhaps, be rather difficult to appease, at once, the excitement, and repress the appetite for war, conquests, and glory ; but she will sliow her greatness and self-denial more by forbearing 980 CANADA AND THE ('IJIMKA tliiiii l>y actin<(. I trust most fervently that, if Hiissiii is really in earnest, and wislirs sineerely for peace, this j,M-e;it blessing' may not he lost hy foolish clamour, <,n'fe(lv arnhition, and restless dissatisfaction. If our pride has been a little hund)led, we shall douhtless Ix; hcnetited l)y it. Our overweening^' self-confidence often bordered oil almost insolent arro;jfance. We have h;id our l('ss(»n : as well as the Czar of all tlu' Kussias. '•Jan. 24fh. — Last iUL,dit we had a party at mess, eighteen in nund)er, includinn- (rent^ral Harnard, com- manding Second Division, and formerly chief of th(? staff, and General Crawfurd, comniandinir the Hri<^^,de of (luards. The dinner passed off admirably. Tlie Bill of Fare wius as follows : rdl.L OF FAIIE. lioj/al U/u/hicn-s' 3Iess, Camp near Schaatopol, Jan. 2'\i-(l, ]8.")«). V' ■ ].>■■ ' V 1 ■ '■!;■ ■' ■ OTHI.KT SOUP PEA SOUP EOAST (iOOSE boar'8 hkad green peas haogis uoiled leo of mutton i'ork cutlets curry roast loin of pork STEWED sheep's HEAD GREEN PEAS MINCED BEEF AND HAM BEEF STEAK PIE A SUCCEs».SFUL DINNEIl. 281 yncoNi) corusiE AITLK I'll; JKLLY HTF.WKI) Ari'Lllrt AND UICi; VFUMIti;i,l,I l'LI"I)IN(i RASPBERRY TAUT ROI.Y-I'OI.V ITDDINfi APPLE PUFFS MACCARONI AM) CIIEKSF. (IIIIKKV TAUT lUCE Pl'DlUNO IN PEAS ' Genenil Cniwfunl took posessioii of a copy to send home to his friends in Kny^land as a curiosity, and a specimen of wliat the hardshi[)s (»f the Crinica were. His aide-de-camp complimented me on the dinner, and said that "our mess" beat tliat of tlie Grenadier (iuards hoHow, thoui,di tliey spared no expense, and gave tlieir cook 12/. a month. Our cook gets 7/. which one would think finite sufficient for an ordinary mortal. J[e deserves great credit for the manner in which, notwith- standing drawbacks and deficiencies (such as the total absence of eggs, fresh milk, c*v.c. ), he manages to put a dinner on the table. * General Barnard confirmed all the reports and state- ments respecting the acceptance by Kussia of the terms offered by the Allies. It is generally believed in tlie army that peace is all but certain. I trust in God it may prove true. It appears almost like a dream to ,hink that the great contest is really over, and tliat before a few mouths have passed, we may find oiu'selves at home again, or in some peaceful colonial garrison. ■'('. 2H2 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA m li li'" b } n \ i: I < I Supposing even tliat tlie tidings are full}' confirmed, it will take some months before this large army, with its thousands of mules and horses, and innnense accumu- lation of stores and materials can be removed. Tlie (^uartcr-Master-General of the iirmy, I believe, expressed his opinion that six months would be required. What joy iuid gladness will be wafted to the anxious hearts of friends and relatives all over England by these great news ! I shall be truly rejoiced ; and, though I should feel a great interc-^t in a campaign in the field, and l)esides stand chance of furtlier promotion and distinction, I cannot for a moment vvei<>-h these inducements with the liorrors and misery of war. I have been behind the scenes, and seen too much of the iStern renlity, to be caufdit bv such sliadows. How delicflited I shall be to feel I am once more at home ! I have had, of course, many doubts and misgivings as to the chances of my ever seeing any one I loved, or my country again. T have seen so much of death in every shape, that I began to look on my oami existence as hanging 1)y the merest thread, which an}' accident, or apparent accident, might sever. ' Death is spoken of with such indifference out here, and ti'eated necessarily as such an ordinary every-day event of war, that one loses in some measure the horror one feels of it in peaceful times. I thought the spectacle of a battle-field would be more dreadful than it really was. I have found the sight of suffer- ing far more distressing than that of doath, and, if anything, more melancholy. THE ATTITUDE OF ENGLAND S83 ' It is very natural tliat people in England should desire a more brilliant series of successes — some of those ra[>id and decisive strokes which decide the fate of empires, and end a campaign and war at thi^ same moment. As far as we have gone yet, however, I <lo not think England has any great reason to l)e dis- contented with the results of the war. We connneiiced it disorganised and unprepared. We liave fissisted materially, in the short space of two years, in crippling our great adversary and bringing him to our feet. Tn another year, should the war unhappily last, we may look forward with some confidence to his complete abasement and prostration. What more could wt> wish, or expect ? I am fully con\inced that the wdiole of this campaign will be regarded with very different eyes by the next generation. * Now the war seems virtually over. Peace is on every one's lips — and though the military glory and prestige of England might possibly be increased by another campaign, and her sensitive spirit of honour satisfied — the army generally, and I hope the majority of thinking men in England, welcome the prospect of a cessation of hostilities with real satisfaction. The attitude of England, too, at the present moment, could not well be more dignified and imposing than it is. Our great floating batteries have not, as yet, measured their strength against the enemy. We had two of them out the other day, and there was a fine opportunity for an experimental trial against the, as yet, scatldess walls of Fort Constantine. ,'1 1 ..f i " !i i . ' ',.: * I 1 ;'( t ' ■ 1 i-: 'i ■ i ■ f ii 2{»4 CANADA AND THE CKIMEA ' The Russians seem always to be on the qui vive. They \v[itch all our movements with jealous vigilance, and their guns and mortars continually send forth their warning notes, reverberating through the wild ravines, and even shaking the huts of our encampment. We never reply. The fire does us little damage, and does not impede our operations. The docks are totally destroyed. I am at present superintending operations for the demolition of the great barracks. They are mined, and the charges would be ready to fire in two or three days if the order was given so to do ; but General Codrington is averse to these extreme mea- sures ; and should negotiations take a favourable turn, the order which would consign several ranges and blocks of valuable and imposing buildings to destruc- tion may never be given. Still we .are directed to have everything prepared, and a large party of sappers and infantry are daily at work. I am afraid that it would be next to impossible to achieve any decisive success against the tremendous lines of forts and batteries held by the Russians on the north shore. Every hillock, almost every slope, bristles with cannon. The gunners are constantly on the alert. A broad, deep harbour intervenes, and in a military point of view the Russian position on the harbour is unassailable. Further on along the line of the Mackenzie heights the prospect cannot be said to be better. The heights themselves present an almost insurmountable obstacle. They can neither be assaulted in front nor turned. They can only be taken in reverse ; and this cannot be done unless we PRErAKING TO DESTROY WHITE BARRACKS 285 tment. We e, and does embark our army and land again at Eupatoria, or at some point on the western coast of the Crimea. * Februai'y \st. — I am very busily occupied just at present. I hfive been ordered to prepare a project for the immediate demolition of the huge white Russian Barracks in Sebastopol (which figure so conspicuously in every view of the city), and have actually already commenced the destruction of a portion. General Codrington has given orders for the southern range (the roof and woodwork of which has been destroyed by fire) to be blown up ; and I have had permission to make a variety of experiments in mining and ])lasting while effecting its demolition, and have had 12,()()() lbs. of gunpowder and 120 sappers placed at my disposal. The southern range is about 584 feet in Icm^-th, and exactly corresponds in every respect with the northern. It faces the interior of the Kedan, while the other looks towards the harbour. There is a very long row of buildings, occupying tlie western side of the great square, which is also to be included in my project, and a number of small buildings and offices, already mort; or less injured in the centre. To-day I blew up about 100 feet of the southern building by blasting and min- ing, using only 100 lbs. of powder. The demolition was complete, not one stone being left on another. ' I feel interested in the work, though it gives me some trouble, and necessitates an early breakfast and a ride to Sebastopol, and back in all weathers. I send in reports almost daily, for the information of the General Commanding-in-Chief, who takes a great deal 'I 28fi CANADA AND THE CRIMEA J \ i !' «' t 1 f u 1 ' w ■'!■.' of interest in explosions and demolitions, and was very regular in his attendance to witness the destnietiou of the d(jcks. It appears strange to go on with these- hostile operations when the cry of peace has gone forth, hut I quite approve of what is ))eing done towards such a treacherous enemy as Ilussia. * The Russians the other night, wdien it was almost pitch dark, sent five or six boats towards the south shore. These were perceived (it is said l)y the French), and fired into. The Russians replied by one of tlie most terrific cannonades I have ever seen from their whole line of batteries on the north shore. Our troops in Sebastopol all turned out under arms, but no attempt was made to land. The cannonade was maintained fur upwards of an hour w^ith the greatest fury. Its effect from Cathcart's Hill was very fine ; the flashes lit up the whole horizon, and there were sometimes five or six shells in the air at the same time. I have not seen such a fire, except at the great bombardments of the siege, and even then, though maintained longer, were scarcely of the same vehement character. The shot and shell fell all over the town, but did very little miscliief. Everyone is at a loss to account for this vindictive and useless display at a time when the whole world l)reathes peace. * I was nearly all to-day in Sebastopol, and between my duties there, and those as captain of a company and treasurer and caterer of the mess, had not a minute to myself all day long. We are waiting very anxiously for news of peace or war : suspense is most paralysing. OUR SHARE IN THE CAMPAIGN •28: *I do not admit, witli tlie very exl(jeant ])ritisli public, that the Englisli army has not done its sliare in the campaign. If it is expected tliat 4(),()()() im n should do as much as I.jO.OOO, I admit it has not Ijih-u done ; but if even much moi'e tiiau a fair proportion is demanded, I tiiink that demand is satisfactorily imt. We won tlie ])atties of Alma, and lukerman, or bore nearly the whoh; brunt of both ; and hist winter, with our miseralily reduced force, in spite of most teiritic sufferings and wholesale mortabty, we lichl and main- tained a very extensive and exposed positi(»u. Our only check was the last assault on the Kcdiin — a position which the J^ritish })ublic would probably ii;ive carried, but which, in the opinion of experienced military men, was almost unassailable. It seems to be entirely forgotten, also, that the French took t'le 3Ialakhoff entirely by surprise, and that in all tli(;ir other attacks by open force, even the one on a simple curtain near the ^Nlalakhoff, they were completely repulsed. ' I think it is a pity tliat such unfounded complaints should be made ; though everyone concerned should know Ikjw to appreciate the d!scriiiilit(Uiu(j praise o- censure of John Bull. 'Tlie other day the French blew up Fort Nicholas with about 120,000 lbs. of powder; the explosion was magniticent, and the demolition most complete. 1 wit- nessed it in company with Cols. Gordon, l\ose, iV.e., from the terrace in front of the " White IJuihlings." General Froissart commanding the French " Corps do Ii I 1. \ . 1 11- ^1 288 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA Genio," was present also, and I was introduced to him, subsecjuently, as the officer charjijed with tlie demolition of the barracks. He is a very fine looking fellow ; he commanded the French Plnfjineers at the sie<>:e of Kome. ' Our weather, though variable, is mild on the whole : and the winter here, if one were snug in a house, is a great deal finer than the general winters of England. ' I have now two subalterns of Engineers employed under me ; and expect that preparations will shortly bo completed for the destruction of the whole barracks, should a sudden order arrive directing us to do so. ' I think the war may be considered over ; the desire for peace is too palpable, and too clearly shown by thr French, and Austrians, to be mistaken. Wh atever we may say, we must yield in some measure. I only trust that the great vital points may not be lost sight of; if they are gained I shall be glad of peace, notwithstanding all our preparations for war, — for what is the object of wai- but to establish and secure peace on a right basis ? Our having built ships, cast guns, and called out soldiers, is surely not a sufficient reason for deluging the world with blood ! Let those who talk loudest come out and see what they think of the real thing. Still I want no hollow peace ; and I almost think another campaign might obtain every result we long for, and perhaps be of great advantage to Europe a hundred years hence. It is generally thought out here that the game is up. ' The armistice is a bad thing ; we should insist most peremptorily on its being of the shortest duration. If THE WHITE BUILDINGS 289 the neiiiotiations fail, tliore is littlo doubt but tliat the re-estal)lis}miont of our prestige in Asia by the recapture of Kars will be one of our first acts. 'The country is ^vil(l, beautiful and interesting;", but the climate I fear not over healthy. The present is a most ;mxious crisis for all of us. What a nund)er of fates h;nig on a tlu'ead ! ' Fl'I). loth. — Since my last entry I have been en- ijaijed in various duties, the chief beinLj the demolition of portions of the White }]uildings or large Russian barracks in Sebastopol, and I have made a variety of experiments in blasting, mining, c^c, all of which have as yet succeeded well enough. ^ Feb. I5lh. — On ^Monday I again returned to my labours at the White Buildings; had an explosion in the afternoon, at which a hirge number of French and spectators were present. Tried the experiment of con- necting the charges by powder hose under ground ; it did not answer, and the whole explosion was a failure, to my great mortification. 'On Tuesday, however, by an alteration in the arrangement, I blew up and demolished great portion of the wall experimented on. ' Wednesday I sjient up in camp, visiting the Laud Transport Corps, and giving directions for the formation of a f]-esh watering place; 'Feb. '22nd. — On a court-martial, on INTonday, Tues- day, and Wednesday. Have been several times to Sebastopol. The operations for the dcmoliti«jn of tlie White Buildings progress rapidly. The northern range u S90 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA I, l! M \ vl -i] I V I lias ])een mined throughout, shafts having been sunk, or chambers formed in the walls, according to circum- stances, for the destruction of the whole buildinf% vaults, partition walls, &c. * We have had several days of most severe frost, the thermometer at head-quarters near zero in the morning, and a sharp piercing wind from the north. To-day it is quite warm, and half a gale of wind bl()w- ing from the south, making doors creak, and tents flap. * Our news from England are that the Peace Confer- ence will assemble about the end of the month, and that the armistice, when signed, will probably extend to the 31st of March. * The French seem very sanguine respecting peace, and it is even rumoured that the Emperors of Eiissia and Austria will pay a visit to Paris, when the negotia- tions have terminated : the former visit I should think improbable. * On Wednesday last, we entertained six sergeants of Sappers who had obtained tlieir promotion into the Land Transport Corps. My old Colour-Sergeant Falk- ner was one of the party. The dinner passed off very well, and the " cornets " seemed to enjoy themselves. We sang a portion of God save the Queen, as a wind up — no man recollected the whole.' 291 CHAPTER XVI. THE LAST DEATH IN THE CRIMEA. AN tlie 28th of February, less than a week after the ^ last entry in his Journal, the aceident which deprived my brother of life took place. The following is Sir William Codrington's dispatch to Lord Panmure, giving official intelligence of his death : — ' Sebastopol, Feb. 20th. ' My Lord, ' I regret extremely to have to inform your Lord- ship of the death of Major Ranken, of the Royal Enjjfineers. ' He had the superintendence of the operations necessary for the destruction of the large White Ear- racks, in the Karabelnaia, where part of the mines were fired yesterday afternoon, but several of them did not explode. 'Major Ranken, in the energetic performance of his duty, seems to have proceeded to light the fuse again in several places where the connexion had failed. It appears the powder hose, as well as the fuse ignited, u 2 1 M ll I If: ( I S93 CANADA AND THE CltlMEA tli(3 t'Xj»l(jsii.ri took plnrc, utid Ijuricd liiin under the ruins of part of the wall. ' Kncrj^etit* efforts were made at once to discover tlH> body, and tlie removal of tlie ruins l)ei;<'in and con- tinued tlirou;;-liout tlie ni^lit. This morning the body was found. Deatli nuist have beeu inmiediate ; and tluis this excellent and jj^allant officer, who had done j^ood duty in the siege, and at the assault of the Kedau, lost his life from eagerness to complete the work entrusted to him. *I have, &c., ' W. J. CODRINGTON, * General Commandinf^ ' The Lord Panrauro, &c.' Colonel Gordon, of the Royal Engineers, (now Colonel Gordon, C.B., Deputy Adjutant-General,) wrote on the same day to a near connection of our family, a letter, which, by his kind permission, I insert. li:^^- li,*' i!i.-' Sir, ' Camp, Sevastopol, Feb. 29th, I80G. 'I presume that a telegraphic communication lias reached you of the death of Major Kanken, Koyal En- gineers. This very sad event occurred yesterday, the 28th instant, at about p.m. ' To him ^vas intrusted the demolition of the large Naval Barracks, called the " WTiite Buildings." * At about half-past 4 p.m. on the 28th, the mines w^ere fired. COLONEL GORDON S LETTER 203 I niidcr tlu- ite : and thus * Several of tlie mines in one buildinjx liaviiiLr missed fire, Major I\anken made fri-sli iirran^'cmenls for firing' them, — lie himself takinj,' up a position in the interior of tlie buihlinj,', to fire one set of mines. *I was on the outsich* of tlie hnihling, close to liim. With a lig'ht in his hand, he ealled to the men to run away as fast as possible, for there was oidy a minute for them to escape. He stooped down, and lighted the train. T supposed tliat he had attached to the focus of the powder hoses a length of I'ickford's fuso of a) tout a yard, which is calculated to burn for al)out Ji minute, the time ho allowed himself for escape out of the buildinir. ' But no sooner had he applied liis light than (froni what cause I know not) I saw the running fire and smoke of the ignited hose. * The crash and fall of the walls and roof followed almost immediately. 3Ien crept wherever they could into the ruins to listen for sounds of life, but alas ! none were heard. A working party was immediately put on, and search w^as continued by reliefs of men durin<j: the w^hole night, until about eight o'clock this morning, when his body was found. His death must have been instantaneous. 'This very melancholy event, coming at a time when we were all so well, and had been so long without a casualty, has cast a gloom over us that I can compare to no other but that which followed the announcement of poor Leving's death in Bulgaria. As then, so now, there are not the distractions of war to witlidraw our > \ ';'} 294 CANADA AM) THE CltlMKA . i , j (/• ! ii'" lhoui,']its from hroodiii*,' over siicli ;», sudden fuid ;i\vful lesson of'tlie imeert!iint_v (»f"limii;m life. ' IvMiikeii liiid ese.'iped the perils of tlie sicj^c. On the ineniondtle Htli of Sej)teiiilier, liy liis cool coiiraj^'e Mild intrepid ze;d, Ik won u iinnie f(»r liiniself in tin's ;irniy, miuI <>n that day too, he, hy his i^-jdlaiit hearinus coiitrihuted to raise the reputation of that eorps which now laments over the untimely death of one of the l)L'st and the bravest. 'The sorrow that is felt in this eamp has spread far and wide to other camjis, tor he was ij^reatly esteemed, and especially in his own (the '5rd) Division. 'General Sir William Kyn^, commandiuL,' that Division, and many ofTieers of distinction, will attend the funeral to-morrow. We will hury him side by side with those wlio have <;one before him. The burial place is on tlie left bank of the ravine, at tlu^ bottom <jf which is CareeninL!; Hay, and its tup the Windmill. The spot is not (pute 400 yards below the mill, and a little below the Engineers' cMicampment, Ivight Attack. His brother oflficers would have iTected a stone to his memorv, but I know that this will be done i)y the non-commis- sioned officers and men of his company ; and nnich as we desire to do him honour, wx» will give way to the men. * A good, a kind, and a just officer ho was, and greatly w^as he beloved by them. INIany years his senior, I cannot boast of having been amoncfst his most inti- mate friends ; but for some time j^ast I have been his immediate Commanding Officer, and I hope, his friend, COLONKL (.oKDonV I.KTTKR 2!>rj •11 juid jiwfiil mid r (•;iTi truly s.'iy from mvHrlf aiid nil my ])n)tlu'r officers, tlutt In; left hclilnd liim ;i iiniiu' tlmt will loii<4 1)L' rciricmlK'nd, and will never l»e mentioned Imf with honour. *Jfe liad i^rf'at attainments, threat zeal, and lie was an officer of ajuiroveil coiira^^-; kind and clieerfnl, lie endeared himself to all. Uespected and a.dnnre(l lor his Ixiievoleiice, and for his tridv Christian cmidnct ; his ])rother officers hav«' a llrm liojte that he has been found worthy of the heavenly inheritance. *This will liL,diten our j^rief, and may (Ictd, in his ause it to lirini,' consolation to you, and t(» all mercv, vvlio mourn so arc !it a 1 OSS. ' Yours very truly, *.I. W. (JoKnoN, ^Capt. Ivoyal Knginocrs, and Cohjiicl. ' Licut.-Col. At^kwith, 11. A.' My l)rother was huried on Smulay, ]\Iarcli the 2nd. A correspondeut of the J)<ii/i/ X<'.ii\^ descri])es his funeral, and the generous sympathy exhibited by his brother officers. ' Sebastnpol, ^hm.-h 4lli. * The funeral of tlie late Major Kanken, K.K., was, on account of the weather, postponed from Saturday to Sunday afternoon at two o'cU)ck. He was buried at tlie Eiglit Attack burial-ground of the Engineers, near the famous milk Round this piece of ground a stone wall has been built, and wdthin tlie euclo.sure eleven (officers ,1. If t 1 < i w ' ■"»■ 1 ] m ') \ \ 111 li I j ) $ t , 296 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA of Engineers are buried, viz., Colonel Alexander ; Cap- tains Craigie, King, Crofton, Jesse, Dawson ; liieiiteu- ants JNIurray, Bainbrigge, Lowry, Carter, and (Iraves ; besides three Artillery officers, viz., Captain Gordon and Lieutenants jNIitchi'll and Luce. A tombstone has been erected to the memory of Captain higlis, R.E., who was drowned in the Prince on the 14th of No- vember, 1854. In addition to these officers, all the Sappers wdio were killed in the Right Attack, or died in the Eight Attack camp up to the commenci'ment of last August, have been likewise buried here, and a very handsome stone monuiment has been placed by their comrades to their memory. At the funeral, which was one of the largest in the Crimea, most of the officers following rode ; this w'as necessary on account of the distance and the nuid. The body was carried on a gun- carriage, preceded by a firing party of the 8ap)K>ys, and four bands of the 3rd Division, being followed by Colonel Gordon and his brother officers, Colonel Lloyd and staff, a large number of Artillery and Infantry officers, and lastly, by his General, Sir William Eyre and staff. ]\[ajor Ivanken was attached as engineer to the 3rd Division, although he was temporaril}- employed in destroying the \Miite Buildings, where he met his death in so melancholy a manner.' jNIany were the high eulogiums that sul)sequently appeared in^ various Newspapers, from amongst which I select the following from the MonuiKj Fust and the Times. r ■ EXTRACTS FROM ^'EWSPA^ERS 29: The ]\[nrning Post. ' The late MAJOR GEORGE RANKEN, R.E. 'Two (lays ago our oMtiiiiiy contained tlii.s notice — '•'On the 28th ult., killed at Sebastopol, by an accidental explosion, Major George Kanken, Royal Engineers, aged 27, deeply lamented." ]Major Kanken, a few months ago, volunteered for service in the Crimea, and had the good fortune to escape without injury from the attack ujDon the Kedau, in whicli he led the party en- trusted with the carrying of the scaling-ladders. When he arrived in the Crimea, he held merely tlie rank of Lieutenant, but having succeeded to a company by a death vacancy, his galhnit conduct, in leading the storming party in the memorable attack which we have mentioned, led to his promotion to the rank of ^lajor " for distingidshed services in the field." The honour which he thus nobly won, it has not been permitted him, by the decrees of an all-wise Providence, long to enjoy. His death will be lamented by the distinguished corps of which he was an ornament — ^l^y his friends, who can only be sustained under their unexpected and melancholy bereavement by the knowledge, that every grace which elevates and dignifies the Christian charac- ter were united in this gaUaut and accomplished gentle- man. ^Nlajor Ranken served for several years in Canada, and Avhen, in the autunm of 18o4, the cholera broke out in that province, at his own expense he f' (■ 298 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA I r ,|:i ii printed and circulated the instructions that had been issued by the Board of Health in this country, in the hope of staying the ravages of that fearful pestilence. In no place more than in Canada will his loss be de- plored, where his virtues and his amiability will long be held in remembrance. On his return to this country he was detached to inspect the fortifications in Scot- land, but not desiring to enjoy that ease to which his colonial service entitled him, he volunteered for the Crimea, where he arrived in time to participate in the glories of that army which he loved so well, and to find a premature grave. He took a lively interest in all matters connected with his profession, and these columns have been the means of conveying to the public many valuable suggestions from his pen calculated to promote the efficiency of the army. He has met a soldier's death — not by the hands of the enemy, but by an un- foreseen and melancholy accident ; but his name will long be affectionately remembered by his friends, by his companions in arms, and, we would fain hope, by a grateful country.' I' i The Times, Fridaij, March ^\st, 185G. ' It is with the sincerest regret that I record the death of a most amiable young man and gallant officer — Major George Ranken, of the Koyal Engineers, who v/as killed in the zealous discharge of his duty at the explosion of the Wliite Buildings on Thursda}'- evening last. The ac- cident occurred at the south-western corner of the edifice. II : i I THE TOIES' ' SPECIAL CORrESrONDENT ' 299 and h;is Leen related to me as follows : — A mine havin-j: failed to explode, and some minutes having elapsed, Major Ranken sent his men to a distance, and himself entered the place to renew the train, scatterinj^ loose powder over it. P'rom the position in wdiieh his corpse was found, it is supposed tliat he had completed his perilous task, and was ahout getting through a window, when the explosion tok place, and the building fell in. His arm was broken, and there were injuries to the skull and spine, Avhich must have occasioned instant death. Army Works Corps men dug f(n' his Ijody until mid- night on Thursday ; they were then relieved by Sappers. The b(jdy was not extricated imtil past eight o'clock on Friday morning. The unfortunate officer was buried yesterday, with military honours, a,t the Engineers' Ceme- tery, Left Attack. He was followed to the grave by General Eyre, commanding the Third Division ; h\ Colonel Lloyd, commanding the Royal Engineers ; and by a large niunlier of officers of his own corps and of other arms. INLajor Ranken, as you will doubtless re- member, commanded the ladder party in the attack on the Redan. He was a most promising officer, a great favourite with his comrades, and his loss is deplored by all who knew him. It was hard to have escaped the murderous fire of the 8th of Se2:»tember only to die, less than six months later, crushed beneath a shattered wall. If peace be now definitely made, Major Ranken will, perhaps, have the melancholy distinction of being the last Englishman killed in the Crimea. The last Frenchman killed here, up to this date, fell in a duel. / .■ ' :i ■Ni ! ■ ! 300 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA Two French officers, who have gone through the whole war unwounded, ({iiarrelled the other day and f(.)nght with sabres ; one was killed, and the other was so badly hurt that he is not expected to live.' These extracts will suffice to show the deptli and universality of the regret and grief felt by those ac- ([uainted with his noble character and actions, and such, with very numerous private letters, bear precious testimony to his worth and good deeds. The commencement of the Journals (from which I liave extracted must of Avliat is contained in this volume) date from February, 1853. Written b}' my brother exclusively for his o\vn inspection, they contain many touching reflections on the existence of imperfec- tions in his disposition (known frequently only to him- self) ; many earnest \vishes for growth in grace : many unselfish projects of future usefulness, and many self- rejjroaches on account of neglected opportunities. They exhibit the workings of a mind singularly devoid of self-interested motives, full of humility, generosity, sincerity, and truth. I shrink from dilating in any degree on matters of a private personal character, such as are many Avhich with a most sad pleasure I have read, and which in my opinion should never be made known but to most dear and intimate friends, to those who in life w^ere especially beloved and confided in. Without any departure from such a rule, there are, I find, some observations written in the months of February and April, 1855, which 1 shall insert liere, as giving probably a better idea of my brother's character 1 REFLECTIONS ON AVAR 301 and feelings than any feeble tlescription of my own would succeed in doinfj:. Tliev are these — ' How great are the horrors of war, and what an anomaly and paradox it is I — affording an outlet for the worst and most degrading passions which curse human nature, and at the same time for the display of the greatest and noblest qualities which dignify and adorn the jiosition of man on earth. ' Still, taking it all in all, what a mighty curse it is ! David preferred Pestilence to War, saying that he would rather fall into the hands of God than into the hanus of man. ' Those who fall on the field of battle are perhaps the happiest of war's victims — happier, one would almost think, than the poor wretches who, struck down, or blighted in the prime of youth, drag out a wretched existence with mutilated })odies, and shattered constitu- tions — happier far than those loved ones who mourn, and will not be comforted, for whom the future is a dismal blank, through which they may, by the grace of Grod, be permitted to see the cheering star of religion, but which they hail only as the presage of immortality, and the escape from the burden of life. ' What is my own position now, and how is it affected by the war? I am an officer in the army, liable to be called upon at any time to expose my life, and devote all the energy and ability I possess to the service of ni}- country ; God grant that I may do so readily and cheer- fully. Still, admitting this stern necessity, how are my prospects of happiness affected by its very existence V 302 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ii ' r , I \l\ m m 11 It ' I!? i \ ' ■i 1 §: ! , p: ' I can scarcely for a moment feel composed or tranquil in mind, for my thoughts are ah'jays with the army. ' I feel it would be almost unworthy to enjoy life in the midst of its sufferings; my mind would he rather quieted by sharing them, great and appalling though they be. Then w*hat are the chances of war ? Wliat are my prospects if I do go out ? Death, mutilation, disease : and the reward for all or any of these a fleet- ing glory, and the sense that I have been struck down, or sacrificed in the path of duty or honour. ' These are times in which every man has to bear his burden. God grant that Englishmen may so bear theirs as to shed a lustre over their country, and to increase the respect of nations for right and justice. * The question which, in my opinion, w^e should all ask ourselves is, " What good can I do in this world be- fore I go hence, and am numbered with the things that were?" What I wish is to be filled with a fine enthusiasm, an onward pressing feel'ag which will bear me up and carry me tlirough difficulties, danger, and opposition — an enthusiasm for whatever is right, noble, lovely, and of good report. I should wish to be filled to overflowing with an intense sympathy for all that is suffering, oppressed, bowed down, isolated, stricken, and comfortless ; a yearning and a longing to bind up the wounds of the broken-hearted— to pour comfort into the breast of the comfortless — to remove the heavy bur- then from the shoulders of those who strive honestly and nobly — to whisper encouragement into the heart that desponds. And I should \.i^ii. no less to drink in WANT OF SYMPATHY 303 and enjoy to the uttermost the beauty of all things in nature and in art — to read their meanings, and to com- prehend the eloquence of their silent Ian<^ua*fe — to possess a soul unfettered and uncramped, free to tliink, feel, and love ; to feel that I liad a spirit within me fresh as it were from the hand of the Great Creator. I should wish, too, for the greatness of mind which would recognise merit wherever I met with it, and do all honour to it even when it might he despised by all else. I should wish also, if it were possible, to pass through life without sneering at, or ridiculing anything, or to ridicule only in the sense of wholesome sarcasm or plea- sant banter. * There appears to me to be a dreadful, stiff, stereo- typed monotony among men ; somehow or other they never unburthen themselves to one another freely and fully. There is always an inner consciousness which but too frequently belies the outward word and action ; there is a want of sympathy between soul and soul. For instance, people talk of what they neither think, feel, nor care about, except perhaps transiently, and each knows that the other mind is occupied with thoughts at variance with the common-places, the fri- volities, or the measured formalities which he (^r she may be uttering. This of course is not always so, but it occurs too often, and tends to kill, strangle, and sup- press much that is good, noble, and true in us. J^ulwer says, and I fear too justly, that the souls of few are known even to their most intimate friends — that if a li 304 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA man tried to express wliat was in him, and to awaken sympathy for his tlioughts and feelings even in the breast of those who h)ved liini most, he wonld l)e mis- understood and considered tedious ; he would fail to obtain what he sougiit, and shrink back into himself again. I.) i ' How strange this is ! It seems as thougli the soul could hold intimate communion with none hut God alone. God has that insight into us which man cannot have, and God loves us all witli an infinite love, and sympathizes with us with an infinite sympathy. If we cannot — and we certainly cannot — meet with what we seek for from men, we draw nearer to God, and give Him our whole heart with all its imperfections, and its unanalvzed chaos of thought and feeling.' In the beginning of the year 1855, I find the fol- lowing, on the position of many unmarried women in England : — ' Though women seem to live at ease, theirs is too often a life of very painful dependance. "We do not sufficiently appreciate the merit of many of them in keeping " the straight path," when they yearn for sym- pathy, and meet with nothing but indifference and contempt f'om the hard, cold, selfish world. Religion can be their only consolation under all these evils, and happily a woman's mind is so constituted that she turns to religion more naturally and readily than a man. She accepts its doctrines with simplicity, and unquestioning confidence. It never occurs to her to arrjue the matter. She finds that which fills her wounded spirit 'i: I BRITISH AMERICAN LEGION 805 to overflowing — perfect love, perfect sympathy, per- fect {ijoodaess. She asks no more. AVhat a blessiufj religion proves when thus received I * A man's pride and self-sufficiency ; tlie impurity of his mind, produced by the rough jostling with im- purity and crime he is exposed to in his progress through life, his natural desire for reasons and proofs of what he hears ; his distrust of other men, from his painful experience of the internal governing principle of intense selfishness which actuates them in their every-day dealings with one another, all combine to form l)arriers in his mind against the holy light and blessed influence of religion.' In the same year he wrote thus to a friend in Canada, suirefesting the enrolment of a I^rit" 'h American lecjion to assist their countrymen in the East. Some of his remarks are singularly appropriate just now : ' I hope that Canada will raise three or four Pnjvincial regiments, and put herself in a position to bid doHance to Yankee filibustering. She would feel her own self- respect increased by being self-dependant and self- reliant, and her people would be prouder of her and be n:^re pleased to be called her citizens. Canada has given so many proofs of her loyalty, and attachment to the British Crown, that it is unfair to her to suppose that she would be unwillinof to make some sacrifice at the present crisis, and that she would not rej(jice to aid the gallant old mother country in the hour of need. But any movement on her part towards sending us the slightest assistance in the shape of men would l)e hailed X 306 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA #1 i!i iil li ' ?,« with the utmost enthiisiiism in Kunlaiul; would demon- strate even more proudly than her princely generosity, as shewn in the grant of 2(),()()()/. to the Patriotic Fund, the loyalty of the Province, and would serve to knit still more closely tlie bonds which unite true English hands and hearts thronghout the whole world. * Canachi, in my opinion, promises to he one of the greatest nations on the earth. The heterogeneous materials which compose the Government of the United States are hable at every moment to disloca- tion ; tlie Union is divided by contending factions, which, Hydra like, start into existence and power on the rnins of their precursors. \Vh;it a powerful body the " Know Nothings " have become I and what a baneful influence they exercise over the acts both of the government and the country! They liave already driven many excellent citizens to re-emigrate and to re- turn to their native hmd. In Canada none of these evils exist. The government is paternal, and fosters and cherishes all classes alike; such, at le;ist, is its spirit and such are its principles, though it may, and does sometimes deviate from them in action ; but never to an extent which might cause anarchy, or be productive of evil to the country at large. The only fault of Canada is that she scarcely appreciates as she should her great advantages, and her noble future.' 307 APPENDIX THE following Letters, which are amonnrst my hi-otlu'i's many comnuinications to the Press, l)uth in Canada and Englaiul, (generally under the signature ol" Delta,) treat of suljjects of so much pu1)lic interest that 1 need no excuse for inserting them. ' To the Editor of the Quebec Morning Chronicle. EMIGKANTS. ' Sir, ' It strikes rac as a somewhat peculiar circumstance, that there should ha no society in Quebec Jbr the specilic })ur- pose of affording relief to distressed emigrants on their arrival in this country. The amount of misery and destitution Avhicli passes annually through this city is enormous. It surely has a claim on our sympathies, and on our assistance, and we cannot relieve ourselves entirely oi" the responsibility of afford- ing such "help in time of need,*' l)ecause those who require it do not come to settle here. It is sufUeient for us that they are ignorant and want counsel, that they are destitute, and in suffering, and want sympathy and assistance. I have authority for stating that there is great misery and most severe distress prevailing among many of the poor emigrants who pass X 2 308 CANADA AND TUE CRIMEA ■f i ■i i throiigli tliis city. What drove, tlicin IVoiu their own dear native land but misery or lliniine utarinjr tlii'in gauntly in tlie face ? They cotne out many of tlieni in ahnost utter ijriiorance of the country (I will not say this is invariably the ease, but it is olk'U so). They imairine it a land of hope and promise, and they build golden dreams of I'uture success and prosperity, and thou^.di they are not wholly mistaken, they little know the diflicullies that are before them, or the labours and trials tliey must undergo l)el'ore tlnir hopes are realised. Those who emigi'ate, too, are often biirtheiied with large families; there are lew in this city who have not seen thcan c Elected in groups on the wharves ])revious to their embarkation on the steamer whit'h is to tak(! them the first stage of the journey, or huddled together near her bows mure like pigs or sheej) than human beings. The spectacle is surely both an interesting and aifecting one. It is a living roproadi to us, to a large eomnumity of Chris- tians — many sjieaking the same language :and coming Irom the same land — that this distress should pass hy comparatively un- noticed and unheeded. We should always recollect that a little assistance, at the outset of a man's career, is often infinitely more valuable than great assistance at a subsecjuent period. ' The imrelieved misery which exists under their very eyes is a great and terrible rejiroach to those who live at ease ami indifferent to the lot of others, and it will rise hereafter as a terrible witness against many a man and woman. ' Nearly all the crime and misery which exists among the poorer classes of mankind exists from want of sympathy, from the indifference of those who, receiving their being fiom the same God, appropriate with heartless selfishness the bles- sings which accomjjany it to themselves, and close their hearts against the wants and suffering Avhich keep from companion- ship with the existence of their miserable brethren. How nnich might all of us do ! How little do any of us jjcrform ! and yet our duty to our neighbour is to love him as ourselves. We may remember, not inappropriately, that the charitable otHces of the good Samaritan were performed to a traveller. AlTEXniX 809 * I tliiiik tho question luis only to ho fiiirly stated to Ik- ngrecd to, and uctt'd on. TIktc aro tt-w I hclicvc' in this (.-ity ulu) would nt>t citntriliiitc towards so ^ood a work. The wliol(M\ inter is before tla-ni, tlu! season ol' charity, love, and good-will towards men. Let them avail themselves, when spring returns, to welcome, cheer, and assist some of the poor outcasts and exiles whom necessity hiiA driven to a strange land. ' 1 remain, »X:c.' ' To the Editor of the Quebec Mi>rniiiij C/ir!»tii:le. * 8ll!, ' "Would you permit nu! through the niedimn of your columns to oiler the following suggestion to the consideration of yoiu" readers with resj)ect to provision for the reception and relief of sick or destitute emigrants. The i)r(;sence of this class in the crowded, hot, and dirty streets of the lower town, at this season of the year, is justly regarded as most objection- able in every way, and yet the (pieslion naturally occurs, what is to become of the poor creatures.' They must go somewhere. They are possibly too unwell, or too weak to continue their journey immediately; they want lot ul, rest, or money; l;)Ut they find no door open to them but those of low beer shojjs, or dirty .stifling dwellings, where it is marvellous that human beings contrive to live at all. I would ventiu'c to suggest that a great relief would be allbrded to the city, and the ends of humanity ellectively promoted, by the establishment of one, or more, large emigrant hulks for the reception of all emigi-ants who it might be clearly ascertained were incapable of continu- ing their journey. These reception ships might be under the control of government, or of a private society supported ])y voluntary contribution. However, it would be clearly the duty of government, Avitli the large surplus fund at their dis- posal, to assist and support to the uttermost any private enter- prise undertaken for so laudable an object. I merely throw out this suggestion for consideration, as its practicability and .310 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA 1 V iulvantngcs apjiear oljvious; and tlioii,2;li scliemcs, in every rcspt'Ct prcfcrahle, may ])r("-.i'ut tlicmsclves to others, yet 1 l)elieve that it is desiral)le that siiL-'gestious wliich appear ])rac- ticabi;* should be made the object of discussion and compari- s(jn, and it is Avith tliis conviction .iiat [ have achh'cssed myself to the public through the medium of your columns. ' I am, Sir, ' Your obedient Servant, ' DELTA. ' (imhiv, July 12, 1854.' ' To the Editor of the jlfoniing Post. ' THE WAR AND THE AEMY. Sin, ' At a crisis like the present it ])ehoves every one to assist his country to the utmost of his power, and to embrace any opportunity that may present itself ol" rendering it a service. Though filling a subordinate position in tlie service, I would venture, Avith all deference to superior judgment, to offer a few suircestions as to the course which 1 consider might be advantageously pursued by (tovernment and by the military authorities in the present emergency. ' It is our oliject, at the opening of the campaign on a grand .scale in the ensuing spring, to have a large, well-equijiped, well-organized army in the field, Avliich shall .su})port our claim, not oidy to su};or-eminent lu'avery, but to super- eminent intellisrence. We have no desire to bhish arain, and to mourn again, over such a scries of fatal errors as have; marked our progress hithei-to before the walls of Sebastopol. We wish to retrieve our character, to rectify and remedy what is amiss, and to guard against the repetition of similar calamities. We desire to bring into the field an army Avhich in (!A'eiy respect may Avorthily represent the nation. Let us see how this is to be done. ArrENDix 311 3R, in PVPrv tlicrs, yet 1 ;i]i])car ])rac- lul coiiijuiii- e addressed columns. ' DELTA. every one to to embrace idering it a tlie service, iidgment, to I consider ; and by the I on a arand ll-eqnipped, support our to super- i again, and )rs as have SebastopoL md remedy n (-)f simihir irmy Avhich Ion. Let us ' Where (h) we in tlie first instance turn to? Naturally to the yoiitli (if oiu* own country. The military spirit i>f the people has been appealed to, and this a})peal has met with a hearty, thougli perhaps ncit unanimous, response. AVe should first consider how this spirit, Avhieh is at the present crisis *hc mainstay of the country, may be best jn-omoied and encou- raged. Latterly the condition of tlie soldier, and the, terms of enlistment into the army, liave been much ameliorated. A prospect has Ix'en opened to every man in the ranks of ])ro- motion and distinction, of tlie innnediate recognition of dis- tinguished gallantry or merit, of honourable rewards for woiuids received in the service of tlie country, and the con- solation ailbrded to tliose who have formed domestic ties, that their wives and little ones, in the event of their death, l)e- come the especial objects of the solicitude of their country. So far, so good. Now, Sir, 1 Avould venture to suggest a still further encouragement, and one which is, in my opinion, both just and judicious — / imti/if double the p<tij oj' nil soldiert^ eiKjiKjed on active service in the field. Even with this arrangement, at the pres(mt high rati' of wages and demand for labour, the renameration would be very small compared with the hardships undergone and the dangers braved ; but a very great encouragement would be afforded to nn'u to volun- teer from the militia. ' Next, having considered the method of obtaining men, I shall proceed to my second point — their tvainini/. We may accumidate a large mass of raw material of all kinds in this countrv. from the untrained general of divisicm to the I'aw recruit, who does not know his right hand from his It ir, ami all we may thus collect, without su])jecting it to the imnnt- acturinn Drocess, Avill be conii»aratively worthless. The arm / y sensibly felt the value of the military ti-aining at Chol)ham. Many of tuir generals and colonels had never seen so large a number of men manueuvred togethei', and confessed that before " Chobham " they knew little of v/ar or military movements on a largo scale. How, in fact, could they ? Such •mm \\ 312 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA ;:U : knowledpfc (loos not conio intiillivcly. Let lis, now ^ve arc actually engaged in a war with one ol' the greatest powoi-s in tlu ivorld, Inrm at once several great eanijis lor tlie training of our ollici!i's and men. I would establish three camps — on(^ in the s(>uth of England, one in the north (where the Scotch recruits miglit be trained), and one in Irelan(L * Durintf the winter months the men miirht live in wooden houses si)iillii)' to those which have heen sent to the Crimea, or iiiofc connnodious. Each camp should be conuuanded by a general officer, wdio should live with liis staff on the ground, and take every opportunity of exercising it in its various and important (hities. ]\Iilitary sketches and reports of th(^ sur- rounding districts, 8cc., should be continually demanded, and everything conducted as if the army were in the presmce of the enemy. Each camp should have its waggon-train and conunissariat staff, and supplies should be regularly bi-ought in by the Avaggons belonging to the army. The men should be continuallv exercised, and should l)e Itrouu-lu into hiirh physical condition. (Wi; seem to lorget in our treatment of our soldiers that the lioman Avord lor aii ai'Uiy iqgnifiea " exercise,"' and that, in time of pi'ace, the fatigues tluy went through, and the weapcms they were; instructed to us(\ called for nuich greater exertions than were usually necessary in ordinary cam])uigus. AVe shut our men U]) in ])arracks, and give them a sht)rt march once a-week !) The men, after going thi'ough their ordinary drill, after being thoi'oughly instructed and initiated into cam]) duties, should l)e ma- nanivred in masses and tauglit to act in large bodies: they should 1)0 instructed hoAV to defend themselves, how to throAV up intrenchments, to make gabions, fascines, iK:c., and in every description of duty tluy are likely to be called on to perfoi'm in active service. (I may nu'ution as a suliordinate part of this plan, that the men should be taught how to avail themselves of the resources of a country, how to cook, make soups, v!(:c., all things in Avhich they are lamentably delicient to the French, and all highly important as far as they go.) ArrENDix 318 * To form an fidoqiiatc army of rosorvc in tliis cmmtiy, tlic force (listril)ute(l in the thivi' camps should not, in my liumbh- opinion, be less than ir)(),0()(). We may, however, more safely assume lialf tliis number as the more jn-obable. If we take this important step at once Ave shall, liefore the cam- paign has well commenced, i.e., l)efore April, it is to be hoped liave an elHcient reserve; corps to di-aw on for the supply of our army in the field. This is one oi' the modes which have ■sug- gested themselves to me of re-esta])lishing our military ascen- dancy. There is anotlier which 1 shall proceed to mention — it is, in my opinion, of great importance, and if is also one which demands ])rompt and vigorous action. We ai)pear to liave forgotten that we have immense military resources in India, and that these resources are available to a great extent without weakening our ascendancy in that great country. I am assured l)y officers of ex})erienc(! from India, that then; are iiicilities for recruiting to Mny extent in many disti'icts. If, there- fore, the East India Company assisted the Crown by transfer- ring, let us say, uO,()0() or lO, ()()() men liest suited foi- the war we are engaged in, and thoroughly ti'ained to service in the field, it could in a ft'W months obtain recruits in India to sup])ly their places. Why do we not, then, form an Indian Division in our Eastern army, officered by experienced men, inured to a hot climate, and accustomed to tlie hardships and difficulties of Avar? If we availed ourselves freely and fullv of the magnificent means of transj)ort Avhich exists between this country and India, we might l)efore May accunn date a respeo table force at Gallipoli or Constantinople, and by the end ol June have at least 1(J,U0() or 15, ()()() men from India, available^ for active operations. We have only to turn to our colonies, to find a spirit of patriotism as glowing and devoted as thai Avhich fills the mother country. In Canada especially, the most ardent wish has been expressed to form a division lor the assistance of England, and her citizens burn for the honour ot fighting, side liy side, Avith the soldiers of Alma and Inkcr- mann. We should not let enthusiasm like this die a natural 314 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA t i (loatlu In Canada there aro several officers of groat experience Avlio have coine forward to assist their country with heart and hejid. Enghind shouUl not neglect such sources of strength. By establishing a generous emuhition, ])y a judicious distribu- tion of rewards, by a ready recognition of services performed, she may fan the military and patriotic spirit 'wliich now glow's in the breasts of her sons into a i'lrc, v/hicli will be inextin- guishable as long as there is material for it to consume. ' It is Avith the liope that these remarks may attract some notice, and may be productive of some beneficial lesult, that I liave ventured to oHIt them to the piiljlic tlirough the medium of your columns. They are not jiut forward presumptuously, but earnestly and with sincerity, by one Avho wishes only the good and glory of his country. ' I am, Sir, ' Your obedient Servant, ' DELTA. I i ' To the Editor of the Morning Ileruhl. ' liEFKESIIMENT FOR THE TROOPS IN THE TRENCHES AND FOR THE WOUNDED. ' Sir, * I beg to offer the folic tving suggestion to the notice of the commissarat, the medical depa.rtment, and the command- iniT officers of regiments in the Crimea. ' The idea has occiirred to me that the troops should have something to stimulate and refresh them ichile on duty in the trenches, and there does not, as far as I can judge, seem to be any reason why this idea slu)uld not be canvied out. ' It has suggested itself to me that tin vessels (something similar tt) those used in railway refreshment rooms), filled with hot tea, mixed Avith brandy or rum, might be swung, like pan- niers, over the backs of nudes, and thus conveyed along the trenches to the men on duty. APPENDIX 315 t experience li lieart aiul f)f strength, us (listribu- performed, 1 now glo'ws be inextin- unie. ttract some esult, that I the medium imptuously, les only the ' DELTA. N THE ED. le notice ol" command - lould have dutij in the seem to be (something , filled Avith ;5, like pan- l along the ' Tlio tea might be kept hot by means of a pan o{ cliaix'^al, or a spirit lamp. A tin cu[) should hv suspended by a chain to each vessel for the nu'U to drink out of, and every man shr)uld be provided Avith a cup when going on duty into the trenches, Avliich might bo attached to his belt. 'I see nothing impracticable in this idea, and I trust it may be acted upon. ' I may add, that mules canyinghot tea, or even cold spii-its and water, in the Avay I have described, might accompany the ambulances in search of the wounded, so that refreshment might be at once administered to them Avhen first discovered on the field, and Avhen they most require it. * I would suggest to the managers of the Crimean Army Fund tt) send some tin vessels, such as 1 have described, with the aj)paratus for fixing them securely on the Ixicks of mules, and protecting the animal i'rom heat (which may be easily done Avitli a little ingenuity), at once. The month of March is a raAV and chilly one, and (it (ill times refreshments administered as I have sugirested Avould be most beneficial to the sick and Avounded. ' I have the honour to be. Sir, ' Your most obedient SerA'ant, 'AX ENGINEER OFFICEK. ' Eclinburgli, Feb. 27. ' I enclose my card.' ' To the Editor of the Morniuij Post. ' THE NEEDLEWOMEN OF ENGLAND. ' Sii?, ' It has been truly remarked, that vice springs almost entirely from the absence of alfection or from its aberration. It may be said, perhaps, still more truly, that vice proceeds very much from the A\'ant of sympathy, and from the indil]eren(;e with Avhich suffering, Avroug, and misery are regarded by the 316 CANADA AND THE CRIMEA i) I ) Avorld. Every Christian man or woman slionld put to them- selves the question, " Wliat itrood can I do in this world lieforc I go hence and am niimbered among the things that were i " There are surely objects sufiicient on which to expend our enei-gies. "We are surrouTided and environed on all sides by claims aHke upon our reason and our feelings. "We slioidd consider those that we are the most called upon to meet, and meet them at once manfully and earnestly as good soldiers of Christ. No claim that I know of could Avell be stronger than that of the poor, struggling, oj)pre3sed needlewomen of Eng- land. There is no class, either in the great metropolis or elsewhere, which more deseiTedly claims both our sympathy and our aid. There is no class more ])eculiarly exposed, more cruelly and harshly treated, more hopelessly condenuied by society, if they yield to the mighty temptations to sin which surround them. Take the case of a young female, almost alone in the great harsh world, struggling for an honest sup- port, finding the beauty God may have given her a great and terrible snare, or the absence of it a source of contempt and indillerence — looking around with the indescribable yearning ofj'outhand isolation for sympathy — condennied early and late to unceasing and monotonous toil, to a horrible drudgery — doomed to confinement while the bright sun is shining, and all nature seems rejoicing for all but her, finding her health failing, her spirits sinking, her young blossom of hope nipped in the bud, with a dreary vista before her of monotonous days of toil and imprisonment, unrelieved by a gleam of brighter and better things, Avith no one to turn to to whom she might pour out her heart, with its deep longings and its pent-up suil'ering. Think, ye stern moralists and censors, of what this must l^e to the young, inexperienced, and ignorant heart, that wishes, may be, to do well — that sees and dreads the misery and contamination of guilt, but feels itself sinking beneath the weight it has to bear, and seeks in vain for encouragement and assistance. Yet society looks coldly on ; the victim falls; it points the finger of scorn and contiuuely at her ; she ArrENDix 317 to tliem- rld before t were ? " pcnd our 1 sides by ^^c sliould meet, and wldiers of nger than n of Eng- ropolis or sympathy )sed, more Qmned by sin which le-, ahnost Dnest sup- grcuit and tempt and ; yearning early and Inidgery ining, and ler liealth ie nipped nous days brighter e miglit ])ent-up wliat this eart, that 10 misery beneath ragement tim falls; her ; she -u striiggles on honestly and sincerely, it maintains its indiifer- ence. These victims fall and struggle on around //»% and, as it were, luider our very eyes. There are thousands of needle- women in London and elsewhere, leading lives of utter wretchedness, drudgery, and jx'nury. It may be said their case is well knoAvn, and that it has been graphically jiaiuted and feelingly told. 1 answer, if it is so, why is not more done for them? On those who employ the class I alliule to, any appeal, however urgent, would be utterly thi'own away. Th<y wrap themselves in an impenetrable mantle of self-interest, and listen with complacent indilference to all that may be said against them. We must tiu-n from these to all "who have feeling hearts, and are capable of sympathy, in the great world around us, for it is time that such things as this shoidd cease in a Christian country — it is time that a crusade should be directed against all those who abuse, lor their vile self- interest, the fairest and gentlest portion of God's great (creation — it is time that a strong voice which shall make itself heard should be raised in the land against a sin and o])pi'('ssion which cries to God like this. Shall we, as a nation, content ourselves Avith the hypocrite's fast ? Shall we mortily and prostrate ourselves before the throne of grace, and sutler the heavy Inirden to remain, and the oppressed still to sti-uggle under the yoke ? Private exertion is not all that is needed. It should, by its pressure from Avithout, make itself felt by the Legislature, but Gcvermnent should step in in this matter with the only great argtunents that are o^'any avail — sti'iiigent and effective laws to control employers and protect the em- ployed. Something should be done, and done at n/in', lo better the condition of the poor, struggling needlewomen of England. Their Avorking hours should be limited; a scale of wages for particular services, or services of a ])artieulai' class, Avhich Avill lairly remunerate those employeil, shnidd be established. All employers should l)e compelled to give their Avorkwomen a half holiday once a Aveek or (>ftener. (iovern- ment might do thus nmch — it Avould remain i'w pri\'atc .•H8 CANADA AND TIIK CRIMEA 1 i ':■■ -I ) i^; • .« ; u \ i 1 t j •i ■ pliihinthropy still more tn ameliorate and improve. The great social deficiency of the present day is, in my opinion, the want of healthful, innocent, and improving recreations for the poor. We shonld endcuivour to increase their self-res])ect. ir necessity com])els them to be mere machines when at their daily toil, they shonld be ri'stored to the recollection ol" their humanity and ca])abilities -when it is over. There is, after all, less effort required to effect this than is supposed. Dickena touched and won the hearts of thousands, whose sensibilities liad perhaps long Ix^en frozen over, Ijy merely reading a book out to them. We look to the bodily wants of the poor, their food and clothing, the liare necessities of existence, in fact; and we forget what is cif infinitely more importance — their thoughts, hopes, and feelings. We thus too often give them no chance. The pleasures of sin stand opposed by nofhinrj. It is not Avith them, as with us, the delil>erate rejection of virtuous for vicious pleasure. It is the pleasures of evil opposed by a positive blaidv — a dreary nothingness. And yet Avc take credit to ourselves for sympathising Avith our poor i'ellow-ereatures, ;md express a virtuous horror and indigna- tion at their error, crime, and insensibility. God grant that a better time may come, and that this deep reproach may be remoA'-ed from us ! Let those of a higher and better class manifest sympatliy and interest Avith their ])oor brethren — sympathy of the kind Mr. Dickens manifested Avhen he read his Christmas tale out to them — and aa'c should soon find hoAV nuich there Avas that Avas admirable and excellent — Iioav much that might be diverted from evil and turned to good in the heart and mind of the poor man or Avoman. Circmu- stances and opportunity only are required for developing chai'acter. Who Avould have sup])osed the despised private soldier to be AAdiat he has shoAvn himself to be — fidl of the noblest traits that can dignity humanity — till the fieiy trial brought his character out in bright and full relief My voice is feeble to urge on this matter, but I raise it earnestly and hopefully. The cause advocated Avould ennoble any appeal. s !: APPENDIX 319 I trust that, «vGn in this utilitarian ago, some worthy chann>i„u may be found to do battle in its behalf; that some .k,., earnest, and thou-htful mind may coneentrati- its ener-ifs lur the remedy of this and similar evils, and that the «,nntry may be delivered from the reproach which now climbs to j, on account of them. ' I am, Sir, ' Your obedient Servant, 'C. R. 'Edinburgh, April 11, 1855.' THE END.