a WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. NEWFOUNDLAND : The Oldest British Colony. 490 pages. By .lOSEl'H llATTOX and Kev. M. HAKVEY, LL.I). "An admirable account of the oldest British Colony.'"— Fortnightty Jieview. " No more interesting work has ever come under our notice than this." — European Mail. "By far the most complete account of Newfoundland that has yet appeared." — London Daili/ Mews. "The story of Newfoundland is told so attractively and completely that we doubt if it will ever remiire retellmg. It may be supplemented but not superseded." — Land and Water. " An admirable book."- London Academy. " An interesting and well-written work." — I'all Mall Gazette. "The best account of Newfoundland ever printed." — New York Herald. London : Chai'MAN & Haij-. 1H83. TEXT-BOOK OF NEWFOUNDLAND HISTORY. {Second Edition.) LuN'PON AND Glasgow : W. Colmns i- Co. 18!»0. WHERE ARE WE AND WHITHER TENDING? " While admitting tliat the pessimist can readily find a certain justifi- cation of his views in the many dark and discouraging fticts of human existence, the author still believes that there are ample grounds for holdmg liuman progress to be a grand reality." — Westminster Meciew. "Cheerful in tone and popular in'8tyle."~i:fi<'yi'rc. . V -»' .«— "*^ "1. ' ■*► •i! '\ '. ! LADV WHlTliWAY. iFronlispirce. KE^VFOUNDL A:N"D IN 1897 BEING QUEEN VICTOHIA'S DIAMOND JUBILEE YEAK AM) THE FOUR HUNDREDTH ANNIVERSARY OP THE DISCOVERY OF THE ISLAND BY JOHN CABOT 15 Y THK EEV. M. HARVEY, LL.D., IMI.IS.C. AUTHOR OF "TEXT-BOOK OF NEWFOUNDLAND HISTOliY ; " ARTICLES " NEWFODNDLAND," "LAIiUADOU," AND "SEAL FISHEUIE.-i OF THE WOHLD," IN THE " ENCVCLOPiEDIA BRITANNICA;" "lectures LITERARV and BIOCiRAPHICAL;" " HANDBtK)K AND tourist's guide of NEWFOUNDLAND;" AND ONE OF THE AUTHOKS OP "NEWFOUNDLAND: THE OLDEST BRITISH COLONY" WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY umiti-:d Fettek Lane, Fleet Stueet, E.G. 18<>7 LONDON : I'KINTKD BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STKEET AND CHARING CROSS. PREFACE. In the following pages 1 have endeavoured to present, in a small compass, a comprehensive and accurate account of Newfoundland— England's first Colony— as it is in this year which witnesses the celebration of Her Majesty (»)ueen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. Her auspicious reign of sixty years has Ijeen espe- cially marked by the expansion and progress of the Colonial portion of her dominions. It may be truly affirmed that with her accession to the throne began that enlightened policy, on the part of the mother- country, under which the Colonies have made such a marvellous advance in population, wealth, and import- ance. Not only so, but these Colonios, as they have been filling ap with an English-speaking people, have been gradually drawing closer, all these years, in inter- course, in feeling, in sincere attachment, to the mother <3f them all. The ties that bind them together have been multiplying and strengthening. The causes that once led to alienation and discord have disappeared and passed into oblivion. vi PREFACE. Thus it has coino to pass that in this Jubilee Year u strong desire for closer union discovers itself unmis- takably. If the Colonial children luive been growing in affection, it is not less true that England has also been moving nearer to them in parental feeling and thought; and now from both of them comes the cry, " We are one." The illustrious reign of our beloved (^ueen may, and I trust will, be rendered still more glorious by the initiation of a movement towards the grand consum- mation of the Federation of the Colonies with the mother-land ; by which they may become integral pai-ts of one great whole, linked by ties that coming years will render stronger and stronger. In this year, when the Colonies will ]»e worthily represented in the pomp and pageantry which the great celebration calls for, and when, doubtless, they will be much in men's thoughts and in their speech, it seems not inopportune to present some account of England's first Colony, of which so little is known, but in which the feeling of loyal attachment to the throne and empire is, and has ever been, true and strong. The story of Newfoundland, in many ways, is one of unique interest. Here England achieved her first success in maritime discovery. Here her first attempt at planting a Colony was made. In prosecuting the fisheries of Newfoundland, English sailors first learned how to rule the waves. The wealth derived from these fisheries helped largely to build up England's com- mercial greatness. For many years its fisheries were the best nursery for her seamen ; and they ultimately THE FACE. vii led to the founding of En«flisli Colonies for their pro- tection and prosecution. Great and heroic men took part iu the early colonization of the island, and the glory which their names shed on its history should never be forgotten. A knowledge of the changes, struggles, and sufferings through which its people passed can never fail to be one of deep interest. I have devoted the main portion of this volume to a description of the n.'itural resources and capabilities of the island. Tliese have been largely overlooked, or misrepresented, and, as a consequence, undervalued and neglected. The account given iu these pages of the agricultural and mineral resources of the country, and of its forest wealth, will be a surprise to many. I have endeavoured, however, in dealing with the subject, to secure strict accuracy of statement, and to be guided solely by facts, and by the best authorities. These natural resources, as I believe, and as ascertained facts prove, are very great, and such as warrant us in pre- dicting a bright and prosperous future for the Colony, now that the construction of railways has opened its agricultural, mineral, and forest lands, and prepared a way for enterprise and capital to turn them to profit- able account. I have also dwelt at some length on the fisheries — the grand staple industry of the Colony. Other topics are dealt with, especially the condition of the finances, trade, education, ( iovernment, the railways, public institutions, and the characteristics of the people. The scenery, climate, sporting capabilities, have not been overlooked. The improvements of the hist twenty-five years are also pointed out, as well as the viii PREFACE. coining improvements, which may be fairly regarded as potentially included in these. This Jubilee Year is also rendered memorable by the celebration of the four hundredth anniversary of the discovery of North America, and with it that of New- foundland. I have, therefore, given some prominence to Cabot's great achievement, so pregnant with great results. A residence of forty-live years in the Colony has given me opportunities of becoming acquainted with the country and the people. It will be a source of gratification to me if this little volume should aid in making the country better known, and attracting to it that attention which it richly merits. M. HAEVEY. St. John's, Newfoukoland, May, 1897. CONTENTS. CHAPTEU I. I'AOK Discovery of North America by John C.ibot— Voyage of the Mdttheir CHAPTER II. A MisHiug Chapter in History — Cabot's Reward — Meagre Records of his Voyage— The Landfall— Difficulty of deter- mining it— Competing Theories— Cabot's Second Voyage, 1498— Historical Injustice to Sebastian Cabot— Estimate of his Character and Work— Cabot the Discoverer of New- foundland—Object of the Fourth Centenary Celebration ... 12 CHAPTER III. Reverence for our Noble Dead— Union of England's Ocean- Empire— Her Need of her Colonies— Homes for an Increas- ing Population— Mistakes of the Past in dealing with the Colonies -Beginnings in Newfoundland— The Fishing Era —Bretons and Basques First- The English follow— Expan- sion of English Fishing at Newfoundland— Genesis of Settle- ment-Value of Fisheries— Results— Sir Humphrey Gilbert takes Possession of the Island- His Heroic Death— Loss to Newfoundland— Queen Elizabeth and (Jueen Victoria— The Colonies in Vict CHAPTER Vii. Newfoundland as an Agricultural and Lumbering Country — Extent of Arable and Grazing Land— Value of Farm Products and Domestic Animals — Liberality of Land Acts — Homestead Acts— Paper Pnlp Act— Forest Wealth— The Climate ... ... ... ... ... ... I04 CONTENTS. xi CllAPTElt VIII. l-AdK Fislierit's tlic Stable Imlastry of the People -Their Value - Arctic Current essential to Fi«h -life— Food of the Cod- Annual Catch of Cod— Fislieiif 3 Department— Stability of the Fisheries- Seal Fis^hery- Its Value— M(» xii CONTEXTS. CHAPTEIl Xiri. Influence of the New World on tlie Old— Great Duel between England nnd France for Supremacy in North America — Its Bearing on Newfoundland— Treaty of Utrecht— The beginning of Troubles— Evils of Concessions to the FrencI —Misinterpretation of the Treaties— Tlieir Injury to the Colony — Lobster Difficulty on the Treaty Shore — Delegatia to the House of Lords — Best Policy for tlie Colony Appendix I —The Great Seal-Hunt oi Newfoundland „ II.— Notes on Chapter IL -Sebastian Calwt M III. — Calx)t Commemoration V IV. — The Mission to Deep-Sea Fishermen Index ... PAOF. 163 17:{ 189 193 194 195 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. l'A!, ;. 3i, i. J , +« I ' I J- akes, Hawkinses — of some whom, not without reason, the great Elizabeth said, "The men of Devon are my right hand." We do not know the name of a single officer or sailor on board the Matthew ; and even of her l)rave commander, flohn Cal)ot, we know very little. We must judge these daring navigators by their deeds, for perhaps never was there an enterprise having such far-reaching conse- (juences and exerting such an influence on the destinies of humanity, of which so little notice was taken at the time, and so few and meagre records have been preserved. So far as known, no diary was kept on board the Malt hew, and her commander gave to the world but little account of what took place Ijeyond the bare results of the voyage. The voyage of Columltus has thrown around it the glamour of poetry and romance. History has gathered into her golden urn every incident connected with the great enterprise, and elo(pient pens have told the thrilling story in every variety of picturesque detail. But of the voyage of Cabot, fraught with such vast results, almost nothing is known. The records which have floated down to us were written long after the event, and are of the most meagre and unsatisfactory description. Hence, while from the writings of Columbus and those of his con- temporaries, we are able to form a vivid idea of the man himself, of his heroic character and great achieve- ments, so that his name is a household word and his ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 3 lif(3-history a part of our literature, John Cabot is a iiieru shadow looming dimly from the darkness of the past. He has been, till recently, almost forgotten ; Ills sfreat discoveries overlooked, and his services to ICngland and humanity ignored. Xo honours have been paid to his memory, and it is only now. after a lapse of four hundred years, that the public conscience seems to be awakening to the injustice done to the name and memory of a great man, and that the wrongs of centuries seem likely to be righted. "The great soul of the world is just," no doubt; but it is often uphill work to convince the world as to whcj have been its true benefactors and are entitled to its admiration :md reverence. Too often the prophets and benefactors of the world arc first stoned, and their sepulchres are built by after-generations. Cabot's hour has come at last; and the accumulated dust of centuries will be cleared away from his memory, and due honours paid to the man who pioneered the way for tlie English- speaking race who have now overspread the continent of North America. Xot for a moment would we attempt to detract from the glories that encircle the great name of ColumJjus. His achievement must be regarded as the most important in the annals of the world. He raised the curtain that shrouded the aljysses of the Western Ocean, and revealeil a New World of boundless wealth and marvellous extent and beauty. He at once doubled the habitable globe, and gave a new direction to men's thoughts and efforts. He established a connection which could never be lost or destroyed between two hemispheres. It was 4 NEWFOUNDLAND : a nol)lc deed whicli could never be repeated ; und for all time must encircle the name of the doer with imperishable renown. One brave deed leads to others. The grand achieve- ment of Columbus fired the soul of John Cabot with the id«;a that he, too, could do something great for the honour and advantage of his adopted country. The thouglit that possessed liis mind was that by taking a north-west course across the Atlantic, instead of the south-west route of Columbus, he would reach, by a shorter voyage, the eastern coasts of Asia. He hoped to open up intercourse with China and Japan, or, as they were named l)y Marco Polo, Cathay and Cipango. like Columbus, he achieved far more than he dreamed of. He little suspected that between him and the eastern coasts of Asia there lay a vast continent and the waters of the Pacific Ocean. But the glory of his achievement lay in this — that he was the first who saw the mainland of the American continent ; and a year before Columbus touched the margin of that continent in the neighbourhood of Veragua, and l)efore Amerigo Vespucci made his first voyage across the Atlantic, Cabot landed on its shores and coasted them for hundreds of miles. His hoped-for communication with China and Japan, in this direction, had to be adjourned for three hundred and fifty years; Ijut by the energy and enterprise of the English-speaking race, whose way he had pioneered, this intercourse has at length been established, lloads of steel, steam-driven vessels, and telegraphic wires have linked Cathay and Cipango to England and the rest of the world across the continent ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 5 of Xortli xVinerica and tlie waters of the vast Pacific. The old idea has l)een realized in a new and more fully-developed form. "There is nothing new under iln' sun." After four hundred years the western path l(» Ci})ango and Cathay has been found. The discovery of Cahot was only second in greatness to that of Columbus, Indeed, in some respects the former had the more difficult task. While the path of Columbus lay in genial climes, amid summer seas and jileasant breezes, (^abot's c(nirse led him across the North Atlantic, the stormiest sea in the world, strewn with icel>ergs and icefields, and often swept by fierce tempests. While the course of (^olumbus, ever bemling to the south-west, brought him into " the Mar de Damas, the Ladies' 8ea," where witli " the blue above and the blue below," there is almost perpetual summer, and storms are nearly unknown, Cabot hail to face the scowling waves of a grim unknown sea, with its fogs and dangerous currents, and grope his way without knowing where land would be found. Columbus had the Azores as a half-way port ; Cabot had two thousand niiles of unbroken ocean, never furrowed by European keel since the days of the Norsemen, five hundred years liefore. E([ually with Columbus he had to confront the (bilk unknown, but under greater perils, where, as Pasqualigo informs us, " he wandered about for a long lime." It needed a stout heart and a resolute spirit to launch out into these wild waters for the first time, in a little caravel — a m.ere cockle-shell — in which most men would now hesitate to take even a short coasting voyage. But Cabot and his bold West-Country sailors e NEWFOUNDLAND : did not quail, and they have placed their names high on the rolls of fame, by conquering a new world for England. For in point of fact, tlie day on which the Mattlicv sailed from tlie port of Bristol was a historic moment, on which hung the destinies of millions. Cabot, as we have seen, was the real discoverer of North America. Ill virtue of his discoveries, England (established her claim to the sovereignty of a large portion of these northern lands. That passion for colonization which luis .since dotted the globe with English colonies was then first kindled. In Newfoundland, and as a consequence of Cabot's discovery, England was afterwards to try " her 'prentice hand" in planting colonies. Here was her eldest-born colony, " the beginning of her strength ; " and the " swarming " tendency thus developed has gone on deepening and strengthening ever since. Never was it so productive of important results as in this year, when the various colonies scattered over the world will join in celebrating the sixtieth anniversary of Queen Victoria's accession to the throne, and will send their representatives to London to take part in a gorgeous ceremonial which has no parallel in the historic records of the Empire. That England is now a world-empire, and not confined to her own small islands and narrow seas, but has spread her millions of sons and daughters over both hemispheres, is largely owing to Cabot's great discovery. It led, first of all, to the occupation of a large portion of the northern continent. The fish- wealth of the ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 7 surrounding seas first attracted English fishermen. Battling tlie Inllows, these liardy fishenneu became expert and fearless sailors, built up the Jhitish navy, and laid the foundations of that sea-power and maritime supremacy wliich England has preserved from the days of Elizabeth to those of Victoria, Enormous vrealth was drawn from those North American fisheries. For their protection colonies were first planted, and these led on to greater developments. Other nations, such as Franco, came to share in the spoils, Imt were finally compelled to retire from the field, To the daring genius of the Cal)ots we largely owe it tliat North America is to-day almost entirely occu]»ied by an English-speaking population, with all their vast energies and accumulated wealth. Tlie honour of England was pledged to keep what the daring enterprise of lier seamen liad discovered, IJut for this voyage of Cabot and his Gloucester and Devon sailors, Spain might for a long time have monopolized discovery in North as well as South America. English and French enterprise might have taken different directions, and the history of North America might have been shaped in a different fashion, England might not have developed into a great mother of colonies, and failed to become the dominant sea-power of the world, and the ruler of the waves. The coming of the little Mattheio into these western waters heralded the approaching supremacy of the English race. All this was the outcome of the (.'aljot voyages. His is, therefore, a name to be honoured wherever the English tongue is spoken and the fiag of England 8 NEWFOUNDLAND . rioats. John ( *iil)ot is worthy of the nolilust celebration we can give him on his fonrth centenary. On this point we can quote the liif,'liest living,' authority — that of Sir Clements R. Markham, President of the Jioyal (Jeographical Society of England, who says, in a recent letter to the lloyal Society of Canada, " It is fitting that the memorable achievement of that intrepid seaman, John Cal)ot, should be remembered on the four hundredth anniversary of his discovery, and it seems to me specially fitting that a commemoration shouhl take phice in tlic hind which he was tlu^ first to discover. " There is great significance in the voyage of Cabot. It was not the first IMtish enterprise of the kind ; for during the previous seven years expeditions had l»een annually despatclied from Jiristol to discover land to the westward. But it was the first that was led by a man possessed of all the scientific knowledge of his time, and the first that was successful. " John Cabot must, therefore, be considered to hav(» been the founder of British maritime enterprise. It is unfortunate that nothing has been preserved that can give us a clear idea of the man, of his character and his attainments. John Cabot is little more than a name ; but it is a great name. The few certain facts we know concerning him are immortal facts, ever to be had in remembrance. He made the third voyage across the Atlantic, and returned. He discovered the mainland of America. He raised the beacon which showed Englishmen the way to the New World. He was the first to hoist the cross of St. George on the western side ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. of the Atlantic. His fate is unknown. Scarcely any- iliinj,' is known of his companions. Hut the names of ihree Englishmen are preserved, who certainly fittetl (lilt vessels, and prol)aIily went with C^abot in 149H. The names of Lancelot Tlnrkill, Thonuis lU-adley, and .rohii Carter, tlierefore, should also lu; liad in remem- 1 trance. " There are very solid reasons for a Cabot eeleljration, very complete justifications of the pro])osals of the lloyal Society of Canada. I trust the proposal will receive ihe support it deserves, and i can assure you that this honour done to the memory of the great navigator has my most cordial sympatliy, and 1 am sure that it will have the sympathy of tlie Society over which I have the honour to preside." I Another authority may be referred to. ]\Ir. J. V. Nieholls, City Librarian of liristol, has written an excellent memoir of Sebastian Cabot, whose name, together with those of his two brothers, was associated witli that of his father, John Cal)ot, in the Letters Patent granted by Henry VLi. Nieholls holds that Sel»astiau took part with his father in the great enter- prise of discovery, and carried it on after his death ; that " he was the most scientific seaman of his own, or perhaps many subsei^uent ages ; " that he was the father of free trade and rendered many great services to England in after-years. " And yet," adds his biographer, "he who gave to England a continent and to Spain an empire (Brazil) lies in some unknown grave. This man, who surveyed and depicted three thousand miles of coast which lie had discovered; who gave to Britain 10 NEWFOUNDLAND : not only the continont but the untohl riches of the deep in the fisheries of Newfoundliind, and tlie wlude-flsliery of the Aretio Sea; who hy his upri;^ditness and fair dealing,' raised Knghmd's name lii his companions tossing amid the rongli 1)illows ol i:e North Atlantic, and groping for land in its unknown wildernesses, were dull, monotonous, and uneventful. The man v/lio was now opening vast fields for human enterprise and energy, and providing new liomes for the crowded populations of Europe, and giving us the waves for our ships, though of heroic mould, was " a man of like passions with ourselves." He must have had, on that perilous voyage, moments of doubt and gloom, when his enthusiasm flagged, and the star of hope was eclipsed for a time. Storms may have threatened the destruction of his frail barque, and ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 13 uuiiiv an anxious hour may have Ijeen spent peering into those frowning Western billows. As he got farther and farther into the abysses and no signs of land appeared, it may have been that the hearts of liis sailors, tliough naturally stout and brave, began to fail, and tlie dread crept over them that this mad enthusiast was leading them to destruction, and that they would see their English homes no more. And so it may have happened that, like Columbus, he had to cheer and strengthen the timid and weak, and wrestle witli cowardice and mutiny that would have forced liim to turn back. If any such tendencies showed themselves among his crew, a glance from that calm clear eye would be sufficient to quell all mutinous spirits ; and that commanding voice, thundering out his orders, who ANOuld dare tc disobey ? He has come out to find land in the West, and, by the blessing of Heaven, he will press on and finish his task. He has need of all his patient fortitude and stern resolve, for he is alone " the beating heart of this great enterprise." In imagination we see this sea-king, of grave and lofty bearing, his face lighted up with enthusiasm as, day after day, and week after week, he paces the deck. He is greater than all this tumultuous waste of waters around lum, for, like Columbus, he has the soul of a hero and a strong trust in (Jod. The long arms of his faith have reached across and already touched the promised land. Then, as the sun goes down, and night closes in, we can see him in his little cabin, with the flickering light of a poor lamp, poring over Toscannelli's map of the world — the highest geographical authority of 14 NEWFOUNDLAND : those (lays; and then opening the marvellous pages of Marco Polo, and pondering his glowing descriptions of Cipango and Cathay — the lands to which he firmly ])elieved he was now approaching. In the quaint pages of tlie old traveller he sees gleaming the foreshadowings of his own high hopes, and his faith grasps " the land that is very far off." r>ut of all that occurred on board the Matthew — of the liopes and fears, the struggles and disappointments of those on board — we know absolutely nothing. If any records were made, or any diary kept on board, they are ))uried deep in the waves of time, and it is very un- likely any of them will now be recovered. This miss- ing chapter in world-history is gone irrecoverably, and we are so much the poorer. In all Hakluyt's invalu- able records of the voyages of these old days, which he has preserved, there is none we should not be willing to exchange for the story of John Cabot's voyage. How we should like to know with what sort of welcome these English sailors greeted the first sight of land ; how they gathered round their brave com- mander with cheers and congratulations ; and with what ceremonial forms CJabot landed and planted in the soil the fiag of England, that of St. Mark, being a citizen of Venice, and also a large cross ; thus uncon- sciously taking possession of a continent for his sovereign. But of this momentous event we have but the briefest record by the hand of an Italian merchant in London, who met Cabot on his return. " The English," said Carlyle, " are a dumb people. They can do great acts but not describe them. Like the old Romans and some ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 15 few others, their epic poem is written ou the earth's -or vice : England — her mark." Cabot gave to the spot where he hmded the name of J^nma Vista. There is no reason for supposing that he, any more than Columbus, knew of the greatness of his discovery, or even suspected that he had touched the margin of a new continent. He reported, on his return, that he had reached the territory of the Grand Khan; so that, like Columbus, he thought the western coasts of the Atlantic, where he landed, were the eastern coasts of Asia. After spending some twelve or fourteen days in exploring further alor ; the coast, Cabot turned his prow homeward, his pi jvisions probably running low ; and on the Gth of August he arrived at Bristol, having been al)sent ninety-six days. The great news spread of the discovery of land to the west, but it does not appear to have awakened any great enthusiasm in Bristol. Xo cheering multitudes, or waving tiags, or salvos of artillery greeted Cal)ot on landing after his memorable voyage. So far as known, his return received no public notice, and called fortli no po])ular rejoicings. His discovery was neither understood nor appreciated. Probably his voyage was considered a failure, as it brought no immediate gain — no news of gold or prospects of profitable trade. Two Bristol chroniclers, however, took the trouble of making a note of the event. One old manuscript, still in exist- ence, records that, " This year (1497), on St. John the Baptist's day, the land of America * was found by the * ■' America " is, of course, a later interpolation if the extract iu really genuine. 16 NEWFOUNDLAND : iiierchunts of Ilristowe, in a ship of J>ri.stowe called the MatUifAn, the which ship de])arted from the port of Ikis- towe on the 2nd day of May, and came home again the Gth of August following." Another Bristol manuscript has the following record, in briefer terms : " In the year 1497, the 24th of June, on St. John's day, was Newfoundland found by Bristol men in a slup called the Matthew." Both of these ancient documents agree as to the date of the discovery of land and the name of the ship, and l)oth fail to mention the discoverer whose genius and courage pointed the way which so manv thousands have since followed. Such too often is fame among contemporaries. The world's great men — tlie benefactors of their race — are too frequently, when living, treated with neglect or bitter contempt ; but after-generations recognize their merits and do justice to their memories. Bristol will this year make amends for its neglect of the living (Jabot. On the fourth centenary of his discovery a statue of its greatest citizen will be unveiled in Bristol, and a noble orator will pronounce his eulogium, and twine fresh wreaths of immortelles around his name. It would appear that Cabot made liut a brief stay in Bristol, and went on to London, no doubt to report himself to King Henry. What was his reception here ? Did his grateful sovereign summon him to his royal palace and, in the midst of his assembled courtiers, listen to the tale of his marvellous achievement, give him thanks for the immense service done to the realm, and heap rewards and honours on his head ? No such thing. Henry sent him ten pounds ; and lest posterity ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 17 slioiild forget his generosity, he hastened to make an entry of this benediction in his Privy Purse accounts, which are still to lie seen in the British Museum, in tlie following curt terms: "August 10th, 1497. — To Hym that found .the New Isle, £10." He little thought that by this entry he was posting his own mean penuri- ousness for the scorn of posterity. His stinginess is made more flagrant l)y the fact that in the patent he granted to the Cabots he stipulated that the enterprise should be carried out " upon their own proper costes and charges," but that " the aforesaid John and his sonnes and heirs l)e bounden of all the fruits, gaines, and commodities growing of such navigation, to pay unto us, in wares or money, the fifth part of the capital sain so gotten." Never did a monarch obtain a con- tinent on such easy terms. What a different reception was accorded to Columbus, five years before, when he entered the port of Palos, bringing the news of his great discovery, amid the ringing plaudits of a vast multitude. Ferdinand and Isabella awaited him in Barcelona, and his march thither was a triumphal procession, like that of a lioman conqueror. Joy-bells rang as he passed through the towns, the people crowding the house-tops to obtain a sight of the great discoverer. Seated on their thrones, under a rich canopy of brocade of gold, Ferdinand and l.sal)ella were ready to receive the hero of the hour. As he entered the magnificent saloon they rose to receive liini, bade him be seated in their presence, and having listened to his wondrous story, the august assembly IVll on their knees and gave thanks to God with many C 18 NEWFOUNDLAND : tears, and then rose and chanted the " Te Deum." The poor (Jenoese sailor was in that hour tlie most famous and honoured man in all the world. Away in the cold and stormy north, many hundreds of miles from the sunny lands found l)y Columbus, John Cabot, five years later, opened a pathway for a far nobler civilization than that of the south. An En[,dish-speaking host followed in his track in due time, and occupied the continent. When he went home with the news, the "dumb English" received him in silence, as if he had done nothing great; and their king gave him ten pounds as a token of his satisfaction. Perhaps it is a mark of the true greatness of the English race — of their solid strength — that they shrink from giving way to their emotions or huzzaing over a great man or a great deed. Though they recognize both, and appreciat(} true worth, and admire profoundly a nol)lt' deed, they often prefer to do so in silence. As Kipling puts it — '* Deeper than speech our love, Stronger than life our tether, AVe do not fall on the neck, Nor kiss when we come together. " Go to your work and l)e strong, Halting not in jour ways, Baulking the end half-won, For an instant dole of praise. " Stand to your work and be wise. Certain of sword and pen, Who are neither chihlren nor gods, But men in a world of men." Still the silent English are not ungrateful. Though ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 19 thev may be slow and dull in discovering-' merit, in due time the prophet's sepulchre is built and the hero's monument erected, and immortelles are laid on the tomb of the illustrious dead. They did not know at first what a great and nol)le work Cabot had accomplished; and he was received coldly, and in a few years almost forgotten. There was no monument to keep his memory alive. But the fourth centenary arrives, and the name of Cabot is on every tongue. The shouts in Spain welcoming Columl)US soon cb"ed away. IMalice and envy did their work; and only seven years after his triumphal entry into Barcelona, the great man again reached Palos from the scene of his discoveries, a prisoner and in chains — the result of false and calumnious charges made by the wretched r>ol)adilla. It is true the fetters were struck off and the ungrateful treatment was repudiated by the monarch; yet in the hero's old age the same Ferdinand treated liim with coldness and neglect; refused to restore his offices, dignities, and ])roperty of which he had l)een unjustly deprived, and left him to die in poverty and neglect. The personal treatment accorded to John Cabot was Ity no means so bad as this. There is an old letter which was brought to light in Milan, written by Lorenzo Pas(|ualigo, a Venetian gentleman then resident in London. It bears the date of August 23, 1497, and is addressed to his brother in Venice. In it the writer says, " This Venetian of ours went in a ship from Bristol in quest of new islands, is returned, and says that seven hundred leagues hence he discovered terra 20 NEWFOUNDLAND : firma, which is the territory of the ( Jre.'it Khan. The king is much pleased with this intelligence. He has also given him money wherewith to amuse himself, and he is now in ]>ristol with his wife, who is a Venetian woman, and with his sons. His name is Zuan Cahot, and they call him the Great Admiral. Vast honour is paid to him, and he dresses in silk ; and these English run after him like mad people, so that he can enlist as many of them as he pleases." It would appear from this record that the iichieve- ment of John Cabot touched the heart of the people, whatever Henry and his courtiers may have thought of it. But the slioutings of a street crowd soon died away, and the king's present of ten pounds (equal in purchasing power to a))Out one hundred pounds of our currency) was soon exhausted in the pleasures of a brief holiday ; and in a few years Cabot's name was almost forgotten. It would, no doubt, be very gratifying if we knew with certainty the exact spot on which Cabot landed and planted the banner of St. George. To erect his statue, or some suitable monument, on that spot, on the fourth centenary of his discovery, would be an act of historic justice, redressing, as far as we are able, the wrongs of the past. But even this is impossible. Nothing approaching to absolute certainty regarding his landfall is now attainal)le. Historians and anti- quarians differ widely on tliis point. It is certain that Cabot made a record of his Ijinding-place. In the State Archives of Milan a letter has been found, some thirty years ago, in which Ilaimondo di Soncino, writing under ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. L'i (liite, 18th of December, 1407, to the Duke of Mihm, siiys, among other things, " This Messer Zoanne Ciiboto has the description of the world in a chart, and also in a solid globe which he liaa made, and he shows where lie landed." The Spanish envoys, Puebla and Ayala, writing between August 24th, 1497, and July 2oth, 1498, mention having seen such a chart and globe, but unfortunately they are lost. It can hardly be doubted tliat Sebastian Cabot afterwards would write an account of his father's voyage and delineate his course on a chart. Writing in 1582, some twenty-five years after his death, Hakluyt tells us that Sel)astian (.*abot's papers were then " in the custody of William Worth- iugton, and were shortly to be printed." In some mysterious way they disappeared, and not a fragment of tliem is known to be in existence, and not a solitary line written by John or Sebastian Cabot has escaped the wrecks of time. It is not wonderful, therefore, that, with such meagre and fragmentary records of con- temporaries as arv3 left us, there should be such a diversity of opinion in regard to Cabot's landfall. Even in the case of Columbus's landfall, though all the records have been carefully preserved, there is still a difference of opinion, though it seems now to be generally allowed that Watling Island, and not San Salvador, as was once believed, was the spot on which he landed. Captain Fox, however, of the United States navy, still argues for Samana; Navarelte for Grand Turk's Island; and Irving and Humbaldt for Cat Island. Among historians and geographers there are at present 22 NEWFOUNDLAND : three leading theories as to Cabot's landfall. Some place it at Cape ]3onaYista, on the eastern coast of Newfound- land. Others hold that it was on the coast of Labrador, but differ widely .'is to the latitude of the place ; while an increasing number of writers argue in favour of the most eastern point of Cape Breton Island. The most recent and the most careful researches point in the direction of the last-named locality Jis the true landfall, and by some of the ablest authorities probabilities are now pronounced to be strongly in its favour,, Mathe- matical demonstration on such a point is, of course, out of tlie question ; moral certainty alone is attainable. But the evidence now accumulated, chiefly from a study of the oldest and most reliable maps, reaches a high ilegree of probability ; while an impartial examination of the proofs presented by the supporters of the other two theories shows that they are entirely insufficient. In regard to Bona vista, in Newfoundland, its claim rests on a vague tradition or assumption, for which no tangible proof can be adduced. Probably the name, which is Portuguese, suggested to after-generations that "happy sight" must also have signified "first sight," and that, therefore, " Bonavista " must have been the first land seen by Cabot. The mistake crept into general literature, and has been repeated by many writers who did not give the matter any consideration. But it must be remembered that Cabot was himself an Italian, sail- ing on a voyage of discovery under the patent of an English monarch, and with an English crew, and was, therefore, very unlikely to give a Portuguese name to his landfall. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 23 Til favour of the Labrador theory many high authori- 1 it'S might be cited, and much strong evidence adduced. IJut, witliout going into the controversy at any length, there seems to be one insuperable objection to Labrador having lieen the landfall of Cabot's first voyage. He made land on the 24th of June. At that (hite the coast (»f Lal)rador is beset l)y ice and iceljergs at the alleged latitudes — 50° to 58° — and is rarely, if ever, accessible so early in summer, especially by vessels approaching from the eastward. Even now, no captain of a sailing vessel wouhl think of venturing so far North at such a date. In any case, Cabot, had he made his way to this part of the coast on the 24th of June, must have seen immense quantities of ice. Now we have several accounts of the first voyage, the most reliable being that of Tasqualigo. He mentions that Cabot saw "felled trees, snares for catcliing game," and speaks of " the tides being slack," but makes no mention of ice (ir any difliculties connected with it. Had he met with icebergs or icefields, such a remarkable phenome- non could not have been forgotten. Even if we take tlie lowest latitude named by the supporters of this theory — 53° or 54° — the ice difficulty still presents itself. Further, John Cabot told Soncino " that the land he found was excellent, and the climate temperate, suggesting that IJrazil wood and silk grow there ; " and that on the 24th of June ! Such considerations seem to render Labrador entirely improbable as Cabot's landfall. The positive evidence in favour of the Cape Breton theory is cumulative, and derived from several reliable 24 NEWFOUNDLAND : sourwH, ami, in tlic }ig<,'re wishes to study the vexed question should overlook these important papers, which appear in the " Trans- actions of the Uoyal Society of Canada." It is outside the scope of this small volume to enter minutely into such a controversy. It will l)e sulHcient to state that Dr. Dawson rests his argument mainly on the famous map made in 1500 by the Biscayan pilot, Juan de La Cosa, who sailed w^th Columbus on his first and second voyages. The importance of this map in determining f *abot's landfall can hardly be overrated. Fiske, in his " Discovery of America," says, " So far as is known, this is the earliest map in existence made since 1492, and its importance is very great. La Casa calls La Cosa the best pilot of his day. His reputation as a cartographer is also high, and his maps are much admired. This map is evidently drawn with honesty and care." By a careful study of this map, combined with many other sources of information. Dr. Dawson has reached the conclusion that the most eastern point ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 25 of Capo I'riiton Lsland, indicattMl on this map as " Ciivo Descnbierto" — "tho discovered ca])e" — is the jtHma licrrn vista. I [e also shows that, " as this map of La Cosa's was, beyond all reasonal)le douht, based on John Cabot's own maj), which I'edro de Ayala, the Spanish Am- bassador, had from him, and promised in July, 1498, to send to Kinj.' Ferdinand, we have here John ('al)ot indicating his own hindfall in a Spanish translation." This is also the opinion of Sir Clements Markham. ])r. Dawson uses also the celebrated " 8el)aHtian Cabot Map" of 1544, about which so much controversy has raj^'ed, in corroboration of his views. The latter map, as is well known, places the landfall at Cape Xorth, the northern point of Cape 13reton Island. Although many very high authorities hold the Cabot Maj) of l')44 to be authentic, yet, for reasons given, Dr. Dawson prefers the autliority of the La Cosa Maj), while regarding the other as of much interest and impurtance. A second patent was granted solely to John Cabot by Henry VII., dated February 3rd, 1498, authorizing him to sail with six ships "to the land and isles of late found by the said John in our name and by our commandment." This patent was evidently a supple- mentary commission. Strange to say, from this date John Cabot's name disappears from contemporary records. Whether his death took place before the expedition was ready, or soon after its return, we know not. No satisfactory record of this second voyage by Cabot has been preserved. A letter from Pedro de Ayala, the Spanish envoy then in England, and an 26 NEWFOUNDLAND : entry in Stow's Chronicle, make it certain that the expedition sailed early in the summer of 14'J8, and had not returned in the following September. In fact, there is no authentic account of its return; but from the pages of Peter Martyr, Itaniusio, (lOmara, and Galvano we learn that on this voyage Cabot sailed far along the Labrador coast till stopped by masses of ice; th.at he then turned south and followed the coast to a8° N., thus discovering from twelve hundred to eighteen iiundred miles of the coast of North America ; aric that, in virtue of this, England in due time claimed soveiclgnty over these northern lands by right of a first discovery. It is curious to note how historians have dealt with the memory of the elder and younger Cabot, i'or a long period the father's name was ignored and almost effaced in connecti(.)n with the great discovery, while the son's name was unduly and unjustly exalted, as though he had been the prime mover and the ruling si)irit in carrying through the groat enterprise. It was even declared to be doubtful whether John Cabot had sailed on tlie tirst voyage at all, or that he took any part in the second, so that the whole glory belonged of right to Sebastian. Indiscriminating praise was lavished on the latter, while the ntime of the elder w.is entirely suppressed. The injudicious zeal of ardent admirers in uncritical times led writers like JUddle, Nicholl, and others to exaggerate the merits of Sel^astian and to paint him as a paragon of excellence. In more recent times fresh documents have been brought to light, chieliy from Spanish archives, which have completely turned ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 27 the scale, and re.-estal)lislie(l the reputation astian Cabot made several more voyages of discovery, actively promoted maritime enterprises and trading adventures, and by invitation took part in the famous conference at IJadajos. In liis old age he returned to England, and Edward \l. bestowed on him a pension of £160 as a mark of respect. His jnental activity and interest in maritime affairs continued to the last, and lie died in London, probably altout 1557, when close on eighty years of age. In view of all these facts, there seems to be no reason why on the fourth ('al)ot centenary the name of Sebastian Cabot should not be joined with that of his illustrious father, though of the two we may be l)0und to accord the higher honour to the memory of John Cabot, who was undoubtedly the originator and leader in the first voyage. His s(jn, however, is entitled to high praise for brave and daring deeds, and to an honoured place in the roll of England's illustrious sailors. After the lapse of four hundred years it seems unjust and ungracious to " draw his frailties from their dread abode," and ignore his vast services to the English race, and overlook the part he took in the expansion of England. 32 . NEWFOUNDLAND : Althougli the theory that Xewfounclhind was Cabot's landfall must ))e al)aiidoued as untenalde, yet no one has ever doubted or denied that he discovered the island on his first voyage, and was the first to report the immense fish-wealth of its surrounding seas. Newfoundland is bound to honour tlie memory of Cabot as its discoverer, and will take a worthy part in celebrating the fourth Cabot centenary. How mucli of the island he saw cannot be determined; l)ut the fact of discovery is indisputable, and the name, " New- Found-land," which included at first the adjacent coasts and islands, was finally appropriated to the island which still bears the name. Still it must l)e admitted that no critical authority of eminence can be cited in support of the theory that Newfoundland was Cabot's landfall. Harrisse, who has made a most extensive and minute examination of the old documents connected with the discovery of America, does not even mention or discuss it. In his earlier works he held that the landfall was on the eastern coast of Cape Breton; Imt in his latest he fixes on Cape Chidley, the most northern point of Labrador — an impossible landfall, as we have seen, on the 24th of June. For Newfoundland, however, he does not seem to consider there was any evidence whatever. On the other hand, many of the most eminent geographers and historians may ])e quoted as supporters of the Cape Breton view. Sir CUements Markham, President of the Eoyal Geographical Society, Dr. Beurinot, Dr. (^harles Deane, the Abl)e J. D. Beaudoin, o ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 33 Francesco Tarducci, an eminent Italian historian. Brevoort, an American author, and Dr. S. E. Dawson, all support the Cape iJreton landfall. But the im- portant point is tliat Cabot, by his discovery, united Newfoundland to England, that the tie has never been severed ^since, and that the loyalty and devotion of England's oldest colony to the throne and the Empire have never wavered, and on this sixtieth anniversary of the glorious reign of Queen Victoria are as warm and true as ever. Except as a matter of historical or antiquarian interest, the mere spot where Cabot first saw land is not of any great importance. The map of La Cosa shows that on his return voyage Cal)ot coasted along the southern shore of Newfoundland for three hundred miles and named it, thus closely identifying himself and his famous voyage with the island. The landfall, about which there will, perhaps, always be a difference of opinion, is comparatively a minor point; the centenary celebration commemorates the discovery of North America— one of the great landmarks of liistory. ]) U . NEWFOUNDLAND ; CHAPTER III. Rcvorenco for our iioblo dead — Union of En<2;land's Ocean-Em i)irc — Her need of her Colonies — Ilomos for an increasing Population — Mistakes of the Past in dealing with the Colonies — Beginnings in Newfoundland— The Fishing Era — Bretons and Basques first — The English follow — Expansion of p]iiglish Fishing at New- foundland— G(!ne8i8 of Settlement — Value of Fislierics— liosults — Sir Hnmphrey (Gilbert takes possession of the Island — His heroic De.ith — Loss to Newfoundland— Queen Elizabeth rnd Queen Victoria— The Colonies in Victoria's Reign— Free In- stitutions. Max MCllek, in his " Cliips from a German Work- shop," tells us that, " In this cold and critical age of ours, the power of worshipping, the art of admiring, the passion of loving what is great and good, are fast dying out." When we recall the homage paid to the memory of Columl)us four years ago, and the magnificence with which his fourth centenary was celebrated, the tribute paid by literature, art, and eloquence to the great discoverer, we might well hesitate to accept the dictum of Max Miiller. And 'v^'hen we rememl)er the outburst of admiration and w^orship which the tercentenary celebration of Shake- speare's birth, some thirty-three years ago, called forth, and the fervid display of reverence for England's greatest poet after he had been three hundred years ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 85 in his grave; and when we think of the more recent celebration of the centenary of Scothind's national poet all over the civilized world, and tlie magnificent re- ception accorded the other day, in London, to tlie heroic Nansen, we may well doubt the trutli of the assertion that mankind are losing the power of admiring and loving their great men. Tlie truly great men who have toiled, and dared, and suffered for humanity, who have raised our souls to higher levels, must and will live on in the love of each successive generation. Such admiration is wholesome and elevating. To think truly, and justly, and reverently of our noble dead will lead n.any a young heart to emulate their deeds and tread in their footsteps. It is well, therefore, that the present generation should recall the vast services rendered to our English-speaking race by the discoverers of North America, and do homage to their memory, after tliey slept for four liundred years in their unknown graves. It is an act of tardy justice to them; it is an exercise that will l)enefit our own souls. The Cabots led the Wiiy in tlie planting of English Colonies ; and it is only now that the value of that work begins to be understood and appreciated, and that l^nglishmen are awaking to the importance of the colonial portion of the Empire. Happily the day is gone by for treating the Colonies with coldness and neglect. The policy which regarded them as encum- brances, to be cut loose and got rid of so soon as they were able to shift for themselves, has, in the present day, few advocates. A grander idea has gradually 86 NEWFOUNDLAND : taken possession of the minds of the present generation of Enf,'lishmen — that of an ocean-empire, in whicli, tliroughout Great Britain's vast inheritance, on which the sun never sets, her chihlren may, year after year, spread themselves out, and find healthful, happy, and prosperous homes, still enjoying protection under the old flag, and still regarding the mother-land with loyalty and affection. The policy which Englisli statesmen have now to shape is one that will bind the Colonies in closer bonds of sympathy and good-will to England, and render them integral parts of the Empire, sources of an ever-advancing strengtli and mutual help and prosperity. The Imperial Federation that will include the Colonies, no doubt, presents many a difficult problem, and may not be immediately attain- able; but the first throbbings of the movement are now felt, and gradually the consummation will be reached. The sixtieth anniversary of Her Majesty's reign will give a powerful impulse to a union of her ocean-empire, the effect of which will be felt by coming generations. England needs the Colonies as truly as they need the helping and protecting hand of England. During the last quarter of a century the Imperial Mother has added seven millions to her population ; and, including the increase in her Colonies, the total growth of popu- lation in that period has been eleven millions. Homes are wanted for the increasing population of the mother- country, where her millions and tens of millions may find fields of enterprise and labour, and grow up stout of limb, with plenty of iron in their blood and the glow ENGLAND S OLDEST COLONY. 8T of health in their cheeks, hardened into manly endur- ance amid the frosts and snows of Canada and New- foundland, ane Hay, on the southern shore of Newfoundland, which is to become, this year, the terminus of the new line of railway, and the point of connection between New- foundland and Canada. A few years ago a tombstone was found in Plactntia bearing certain words whicli scholars have pronounced to be in the Basque language, so that some of them must have left their bones in the island. Portuguese and Spanish fishermen speedily followed, and these fisheries increased rapidly. There is no proof that any English fishermen took part in taking fish in these waters before 1517, and even then they must have been few, so slight are the traces of their presence. The total number of fishing-vessels in 1517 appears to have been about fifty, those carrying the flag of France being the most numerous. As early as 1522 some forty or fifty houses had been erected in Newfoundland for the temporary accommodation of the fishermen who resorted there in the summer. The English as yet had taken but a languid interest in these fisheries, though doubtless a few took part ; and the reports they carried home of the vast shoals of fish soon stimulated others to follow. This has been denied recently, and an attempt has been made to show that the West-Country fishermen from the first embarked in large numbers in this enterprise, soon after the return of Cabot, and held on constantly and tenaciously. The statement rests on mere assumption, and is without 44 NEWFOUNDLAND : substantial proof. Indeed, it is disproved by a letter written by Jolin Rut, an English captain, to Henry VIII., and dated St. John's, August 3, 1527. He intbrms his sovereign, who had sent him and another captain to search for a north-west passage to India, that he found iishing in the harbour of St. John's eleven sail of Normans, one of Brittaine, and two Portuguese bar(|ues, but no English vessels ; nor does he appear to liave heard of any, although he sailed some hundreds of miles along the coast. The explanation of this is not far to seek. For many years previously the English had been extensively engaged in the Iceland fisheries, and being a conservative, practical people, and in the habit of selling goods in exchange for fish to the Icelanders, they, for a considerable time, neglected these new fisheries, and failed to appreciate their im- mense value; so that the Bretons, Normans, ami Basques were grasping what the English had dis- covered. This apathy, however, did not continue. Eobert Thorne, in 1527, wrote to the English Government, urging them to vindicate their rights, but without effect. In 1536, however, we find Eobert Hore, a wealthy merchant of London, at his own expense, attempting to found a colony in Newfoundland ; but it ended in disastrous failure. Meantime, however, the West-Country fishermen had learned of the success of their rivals, the French and Portuguese, and began to follow up these fisheries in increasing numbers. In 1578 there were four hundred vessels of various nationalities employed, but the ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 45 majority wore still French. The enthusiasm of the English, however, was now thoroughly awakened, and they speedily gained on their rivals ; so that by the year 1(500 there were two hundred vessels from the West- Country tliat every year went to Newfoundland, and employed as catchers on board, or curers on shore, over ten thousand men and boys. The fishery speedily became one of great national importance, and was con- sidered worthy of legislative encouragement. Sir Walter Kaleigh declared in tlie House of Commons that " it w^as the stay and support of the west counties of England." Sir William Monson, an Englishman, who wrote in 1610, declared that since the island was taken possession of, the fisheries had been worth £100,000 annually to British subjects — an immense sum in those days. He further said that these fisheries had greatly increased the number of England's ships and mariners. Tlie fishing-fleet left England towards the middle or end of March for the fishing-grounds, and returned, bringing the products of their summer's fishing with them, in September. Not all of these hardy fishers from Devon and other Western counties who went out to Newfoundland, returned at the close of the fishing season. Some remained, and made homes for themselves in the new land. Year after year their numbers increased ; and thus, by slow degrees, there grew up a resident population on the shores of the island. Though the fishery, for a long period, was mainly carried on from England, yet these sturdy settlers, in spite of every discouragement, held their ground, and at length grew up into a strong body of 46 NEWFOUNDLAND : colonists, rooted in the soil, who carried on the fishery from the shores of the island, and, thou<:,di sorely oppressed, stood up for their rights as freemen, and after a hard but bloodless battle, won the day. They formed the democracy — the " plebs " — the " bone and sinew " — who, for a century and a half, warred witli the fishing patricians of the West Country, who wanted to keep them in serfdom. The l)attle of freedom, tliough on a small scale, was as nobly fought out here as in any other land, by deternuned, much-enduring men ; and through toils and sufferings of no ordinary severity, they at length won their way to self-government, and the attainment of constitutional rights and liberties. Newfoundland, therefore, is not a mere barren, fog-enveloped island, as most outsiders have long believed, where a few thousand fishermen secure a precarious existence by catching and curing cod. Its story is romantic, and connects itself with the history of both England and America at many points of deepest interest. In the New World the flag of England first waved here, and the first Colony was founded here. In prosecuting the fisheries of New- foundland, English sailors first learned how to rule the waves. The attraction which first led Englishmen to these Western seas, and awoke in the national mind an impulse to colonize these new countries, was the immense fish-wealth in the seas around the island discovered by Cabot. The same holds good regarding France. Both France and England early engaged in the prosecution of tlie cod fisheries, and both drew from them enormous wealth, and thus increased their ENGLANDS OLDEST COLONY. 47 national greatness. The Knglish and French fisher- men engaged in these industries sui)i)lied the navy and commercial marine of Ijotli njitions with bold and skilful sailors, and thus developed their sea-power. Both nations found here the best nurseries for their seamen ; Jind to this day the French l)elieve that the Newf(jundland fisheries are essential to the supply of men for their navy, and sustain them by liberal bounties. i3oth nations were drawn to the region of the St. Lawrence, and were led to plant (Jolonies, originally with a view to carry on the fisheries and protect their interests. The rivalry between the two powers for obtaining the sovereignty of the soil arose in connec- tion with the fisheries. The long wars l)etween England and France, during the eighteenth century, were avowedly for the fisheries and the territories around them. Thus the fisheries of Newfoundland really laid the foundation of the Empire which England at length acquired in America, wlien, after a long contest with France, her supremacy was estal)lished, and her gallant Wolfe "died happy" on the Plains of Abraham. These fisheries were far more influential in bringing al)Out the settlement of North America than all the gold of IMexico and Peru accomplished in that direction in Southern America. And thus the humble fishermen, who plied tlieir hard lal)ours along the shores and on the banks of Newfoundland and in the neighbouring seas, were the pioneers of the great host from the Old World, who in due time built up the United States, and created in modern days the great Dominion of Canada. They have done an 48 NEWFOUNDLAND : honourable stroke of work in the great l)usiness of the world. England owes them miieh ; iind, in the, CMse of her oldest (Joh)ny, much of that debt is still un])iiid. Many of the wrongs and injuries of the past are still unredressed, and the obstructions to its pros- perity, created l)y ill-advised Imperial Treaties, are still operative in the year of Her Majesty's Diamond Jubilee. We have seen how tardy the English were in taking part in the fisheries of Newfoundland. Fur more than eighty years after the discovery of the isLmd by Cabot it was the resort of fishermen of various nationalities, who used its shores for drying their fish. It was re- garded as a sort of common property — "No Man's Land" — for England, though her fisliermen used it, had never taken the troul)le of claiming it as her own, or occupying it as part of lier Empire. While France was ambitiously extending her domains and planting her colonists on the banks of the St. Lawrence, England had not got further than fishing on the shores of New- foundland. In fact, it looked as if there were to be no English settlements in North America. Spain had got possession of all the southern part of the continent, and it seemed as though " New France " would absorb all the rest. Little was it anticipated then that a day would come when neither France nor Spain would own a foot of land on the whole continent of America, north and soutli ; and when, of all the vast possessions of France, from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the mouth of the Mississippi, her Hag would wave over but two small islands — St. Pierre and Miquelon — at the mouth of Fortune Bay, Newfoundland, STKADY liUOOK FALLS. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 4U r>ul " tliu spacious tiiuuH of (Jruiil Kli/iil)uth " iit Icii.L;tli (law uud — tlu; Howurinf,'-tiniu of lliu Kiiglisli racu — wliuii inij,dity iinpulsus were stiirinj,' the liuart of I Ik; people, ami the nation liej^au to fuel conscious of the great ilestiny that was awaiting it. It was the age of great statesmen, warriors, exjJorers, of fearless sea-rovers, of uhiill', malarc re/ tlincrc spcnio." His residence was Complon Castle, near Torltay, in Devonshire. He had a lialf- brother, also knighted by Elizabeth as Sir Walter llaleigli, whose tame was destined to be world-wide, and who, in a period more prolific of great men and great e\ents tlian any other before or since, phiyed a gaUant part, and Idled a large place in English history. As a .soldier, Sir Humplirey (lilljert had won high distinc- tion in his youth. In manhood he gave much attention to navigation, geography, and the great discoveries which were then going on in the Western hemisphere. He wrote a book, in which he tried to }»rove that it was possible tc find a north-west passage to Ivistern Aaid. This far-seeing Devonshire knight had carefully stu^lied these new fisheries in which so many of his countrymen were by this time engaged, and from M'liom, no doubt, he obtained his information regarding them. He held wider and truer views than anv of his contemporaries on this subject, and considered that the right way to carry on these fisheries was Ijy settling English people on the island, who cov.ld not only fish to greater advantage than on the migratory method then followed, but also cultivate the soil and make jv home for themselves as well ; while they added new territory to the realm, liesides, he thought it a shame that his countrymen should be content to look on with indifterence, while French and Spaniards were dividing among themselves the soil and riches of the New Workl. He knew what rights England liad ac(i[uired by Cabot's discovery, and he believed t}\at ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 51 it was liur duty to (l(» lior part in cxi 'u^' and suttling tlicsii ucw countries, and thus open .. licld I'or tliu enterprise oi' lier pe(>[)le. lie took counsel with his step-ljrother, Sir Walter Ualeigli, who held similar views, and together they laid tlie matter before Queen Elizabeth. That i'ar-seeing sovereign at once adopted and sanctioned their project, and gave (Jilbert the lirst charter that passed the great seal of England for colonization in America. Its terms were of the most liber.d description. Bancroft deiined it as follows: "To the people who might belong to his colony the r'ujlilH of J^Jiii/lishnu'ii 'ivere pvoiiilscd. To (lilltert, the jwsses- sion for himself or liis assigns of the soil wliich he miglit discover, and the sole jurisdiction, both civil and criminal, of the territory within two hunch'cd leagues of his settlement, with supreme executive and legislative authority." It was a sulHciently generous l)atent so far as the leader of the expedition was con- cerned, as it conferred on him every power and privilege, l)Ut placed the settlers under the irresponsible rule of one man or one corporation. In those despotic days individual liljcrty was of suiall account. A little squadron of tiv^e small vessels was collected. On the eve of his departure he received from Elizaljeth a gohlen anchor guided l»y a lady, a token of the <»>ueen's regard. The touching story of this enterprise and its tragic termination has been often told, and need not ))e repeated except in a few Ijrief words. He reached the harbour of St. John's safely with four of his ships. There he found thirty-four vessels engaged in fishing— nearly half of them English. On the 5ih KEWFOLLNDLAND of Au;,aisl, loHo, lii3 iiiul his officers and men lauded. The captains and crews of the fishing-vessels were summoned to attend. In the midst of the motley assemljlage, composed of French, Portuguese, Sitaniards, and English, the Devon knight stood up and read his ])atent authorizing him to take possession of the island ou Ijihulf of his royal nustress. The usual feudal ceremonies were gone through ; the ])anner of England was lioisted on a flagstaff, and tlie arms of Enghind atfixed to a wooden pillar ; and Newfoundland was s'demuly declared to be a portion of the British Empire, The secjuel of the story is sad enough. How with tiirej of his ships he sailed south to make further discoveries ; how one was Avrecked, and the winter coming on, and his provisions running short, he was fori.-ed to shape his course for England; and how he was overtaken )jy a tempest, and the little S(jairrc/, of ten tons, with Sir Humphrey Gilbert and all on Ijoard, sank amid the dark billows of the Atlantic. It was a tnigic death, but the death of a hero; for that scene amid the pitiless waves is brightened for a. moment, as by the lightning's Hash, and we see him Svjated on the deck, tranquil and fearless, the Book in his hand; and us the other ship carae within hail, those on board could hear his strong voice, full of cheerful courage, ringing out those memorable words across the angry billows, " Courage, my lads ! we are us near lieaN'en by sea as by land " — words to which every brave heart will respond for evermore. And thus Sir Hutnphrey Gilbert, scholar, soldier, discoverer. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 53 pliilosoplier, nnd coLnii/er, heroic and pious in life and ill death, was seen no more amid the struggles and turmoils of men. The first attempt to colonize Newfoundland ended tlius disastrously, as, indeed, did most of the first efforts at plantinj:^ Colonies in the Western hemisphere. To Xewfoundland the loss of Sir Humphrey Gil})er' was ;:,freat and irreparalde. Had he lived and suc- ceeded in planting a Colony, the cultivation of the soil would liave gone Oii hand in hand with the fisheries. T'he interior would have heen opened up and turned to account ; and the wealth derived from the fisheries would have remained in the island for the development of its natural resources, which time has since proved to l)e al)undant. A prosperous resident population would tlms have grown up. Instead of this, (lilbert's ]»lans were set aside. The country fell into the hantls of West-Country fisliing adventurers, who exploitcif tlie fisheries for tlieir own l>enefit, and forming, as they did, a wealtliy and powerful corporation, greedy and UMScru[>ulous, they were aide to get hiws ])asse(l wliich se(3ured them a monopoly of the fisheries, which tliey carried on from England, and prohil)ited fishermen from settling in the island or erecting houses. .All had to return home at the close of the fishing season. For the l)enefit of a few greedy, selfish men, the island was kept for a long time a mere fishing station, and all the money made by fishing was spent in other lanrmed to carry out the enterpriser it suggested. Several noldemen having influence at the Coiu't of James I. took part in the undertaking. The most illustrious name on the roll of this company was that of Lord Bacon, the apostle of exY)erimental philo- sophy. The importance of Newfoundland as a site for an English Colony did not escape his wide-ranging eye, and his sagacity may be judged of by one of his memorable sayings, often ([uoted since, that "its fisheries were more valuable than all the mines of Peru" — a judgment which time has amply verified. 58 NEWFOUNDLAND : With l>acon were associated in this cmterprise the Earl of Southampton (Lord Keeper), Sir J)aniel D(nin, Sir Percival Willoughl)y, Jolin Guy, the wealthy merchant, and several otlier gentlemen of good repute and position. Guy was appointed Governor of the proposed Colony, and came out with a body of settlers ; but this attempt also proved a failure. Then came, in 1015, Captain Eichard Whitliourne, mariner, of Exmouth, Devonshire, a noteworthy clia- racter in Englisli maritime liistory. He received a commission from the Admiralty of England to proceed to Newfoundhmd for the purpose of establishing order among the fisliing population, and remedying certain abuses whicli had grown up. He acquitted himself of the task admirably. He knew the country well, having spent forty years in trading to Newfoundland, and formed a sort of romantic attachment to the island. He could fight a ship as well as sail one. When the Spanish Armada invaded England, Captain Whitbourne fitted out a vessel, at his own expense, for the defence of his native land. He was one of Eliza- beth's gallant band of Devon captains who dashed out of Torbay into the very midst of the Spanish galleons as they passed. When, in his old age, he retired from active life, he wrote an account of the island he loved so well, entitled, " A Discourse and Discovery of Newfoundland," with the view of inducing Englishmen to settle there. In this book he spoke highly of the climate, soil, fisheries, and other resources of the island ; and it is a remarkable fact that now, in the reign of (^)ueen Victoria, when roads and railways have ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. M opiined u[) the inliirior, jiiid ii ^^uologiciil survtjy lias iniide known its a^'ricMiltural, mineral, and lumbering cai)abilities, the representations of the ancient mariner, made two luindred and seventy years ago, liave been confirmed in a remarkal)l(? degree. King James I. thouglit so highly of the ))Ook tliat he ordered a copy to be sent to every parish in the kingdom. The Archbishops of Canterl)ury and York issued a letter recoinmending it to the notice of the people, in orcUir to induce Englishmen to settle in Newfoundland. Tlius two hundred and seventy years ago Newfound- liind was a name frequently on tlie lips of Englishmen, and it was probably more widely known among them than it came to be long afterwards, when it was misrepresented and decried by selfish, greedy, fishing adventurers, who wanted to monopolize its fisheries. Newfoundland has reason to remember the Devonshire captain With gratitude. Within the last few years the first real inland town which has sprung up on the new line of railway was named Whitbourne, after the gallant old sailor. It has a beautiful site, and is likely to grow steadily. The next attempt at colonization was by Sir (Jeorge Calvert, afterwards liOrd Baltimore, in 1023. He was a man of intelligence, lofty integrity, and great capacity for business. He Imilt a fine mansion at Ferryland, forty miles south of St. John's. He care- fully selected settlers of a superior type, and spent £1)0,000 on his settlement — an immense sum in those days. But the site of his Colony was not well chosen, and the continuous attacks of tlie French, who were no NFAVFOUNPLAND : Iryinj,' to estiiblish tli(3m.selvcs iii Ncwfoundliiiid, so liiirassod him that he l)eoa7no disheartened and returned to Eni,dand ; hut nearly all the colonists he hrouj^dit with him remained to increase the resident population. Sir David liirke, a hrave sea-caplain, wlio liad won lii,L?h hon(jurs in warlike operations against the French ill Canada, succeeded Lord P>altimore at Ferryland, and used every effort to promote the settlemenl of the country, and not without ii considerable m(nisun^ of success, ITe died at Ferryland in 10.")"). Tliese organized attempts, under royal sanction, to colonize the island were attended with l>ut a scanty measure of success. It was not by tliese that settle- ment was to he etfected, but by the hardy fishermen themselves, wlio year after year, and in spite of all efforts to drive tht^m out, established themselves ahuig the shores of the ishmd and erected hamlets and \'illages. In tlie midst of so many difficulties and dis- couragt^ments as they had to encounter the process ])roved to be very slow, and the Colony did not advance ill the same rate as the other American Colonies founded at a later date. Seventy-one years after the arrival of Sir Humphrey (lilbert the island contained a resident population of only oi'tO families, or about IT.")!) persons. These were distributed in fifteen small settle- ments along the eastern shore. The principal of them were Torbay, Quidi Vidi, St. John's, Bay of Bulls, Ferryland, Eenewse, Aquaforte. Twenty years later, in 1080, the population was 2280. In 1098 they num- bered only 2040. Even St. John's, the capital, increased very slowly, and in 1780 had only 1005 inhabitants. KNULAND'S OLDKST COLONY. 01 It iinisL 111' leiiiL'iuljored, liowuver, Unit in addilioii to tlicsu tliure Wiis a larj^'e tluutiug pojailatioii ol' many lliiju.sands, who Irecpientcd the sliorus dining- .suninic'i' to carry on thu iisheries, l)ut left for their lionies in J'^n^hind on the a[)proaeh of winter. Evan in Captain Whit bourne's day the trade and fisheries of the ishmd were Liri^ely in the hiinds of tlie l']n«;lisli, as his a]»pointnient shows, for he couhl not have exercised Jurisdiction except over Jiritish subjects. He heard conii>hunts of no less than one hundred and seventy masters of J^jiglisli vessels, regartlin,Li' injuries to the trade and fisheries; and lie found that there were, besides the vessels of foreign Hags, t\so hunthed and fifty Englisli ships eni])hjyed in the iislieries. In Jl)2() Devonshire alone sent one hundred and fifty vessels to the cod-fisherv. The t|uestion, then, jiresents itself, Why was the settlement of the island so slow ? The climate was healthy, the soil amply repaid cultivation, the fisheritjs were most productive. Out of the many thousands who resorted to it in the fishing season, how was it so few took up their permanent abode in the island :* There was a sufficient reason for this, which we must now very briefly explain. It was owing to the operation of one of the most nefarious and heartless systems, continued for over one hundred and fifty years, that the brain of man ever devised to keep a fine island, one-sixth larger than Ireland, in a wilder- ness contlition, and to forcibly prevent its settlement, in order that a few AVest-Couutry " merchant adven- turers" might enrich themselves by the exclusive usj ea NEWFOUNDLxVND : of its shores iiud lishcrius. Never was ii Colony so cruelly uad unjustly dealt with. That successive British Governments sanctioned and sustained tlie plans and operations of these selfish, greedy cormorants is matter of astonishment, and far from creditable to the statesmen who then guided the policy of the Empire. it must be understood that at this time, so far as the English were concerned, the fisheries had been carried on by merchants, shipowners, and traders, who resided in the West of England, some of them in London. They sent out their ships and hired fishing-crews to New- foundland early in the summer. The fish caught were salted and dried ashore. When winter approached the hshermen took their departure for England, carry- ing with them whatever portion of the fish had not been previously shipped for foreign markets. Tliese " merchant adventurers," as they were called, found that it was for theii' interest to discourage the settle- ment of the country, as they wished to retain its harl)ours, and coves, and fishing-grounds for the use of their own captains and servants while engagetl in catch- ing and curing fish. They got at length to regard the island aa a snug preserve for their exclusive use, and that any one who settled there was an interloper wlio should be driven away. They coolly wanted to pre- vent the occupation of an island, containing forty-two thousand square miles, by any permanent settlers, in order that they might use the shores for drying their fish, and enjoy, in their own country, the riches thus gathered. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 03 liiit, in spite of all their ellurts, a lew hardy and ailventurons persons Ijegau to form little settlements along the shore. The island had strong attraetions for them, and they saw that they eould make eomfortable homes for themselves, and combine the cultivation of the soil with fishing. The fishing merchants and ship- owners took the alarm, and went to war with these settlers who had come out from England as fishermen in the merchants' ships, and as part of their crews. They were determined to root them out, or at all events to keep tlieir numbers as small as possible. IJeing men of wealth and position, they had great influence at Court and with successive English Governments of those days, while the poor fishing settlers were of small account, and their case could ol)tain no hearing. The capitalists were able to persuade the English statesmen, and even the people, that the fisheries would be ruined if a resident population should be allowed to grow up in the island, and that they would no longer be a nursery of seamen for the navy. Further, they misled the puljlic by representing the island as hopelessly l)arren, and, in regard to its soil and climate, utterly unfit for human habitation. They pictured the interior, though no one had ever seen it, as alternations of naked rocks, swamps, and bogs, in which no tree would grow, and no vegetable soil existed. They had no great trouble in persuading the Englisli CJovernments to enact unjust and injurious laws to pre- vent the settlement of the island, and to keep it for ever in the degraded condition of a stage for drying fish. These laws forbade any one going to Newfoundland 01 NEWFOUNDLAND: us a .sulllur, and urdaiiiotl that all lisliernieii slioiiM rotiirn to England at tlio close of each iishing season. ]\Iasters of vessels were compelled to give bonds of one hundred pounds binding them to bring back each year sucli persons as they took out. Settlement within six miles of the coast was prohibited under heavy penaltie-;. No one could cultivate or enclose the smallest piece of ground, or even repair a house without licence, wliich was rarely granted. This opi)ressive policy was main- tained for more than a hundred yeiirs, and suHiciently exphdns why the population increased so slowly, and why the Colony made little or no progress in the arts and a})i)liances of civilized life. Strange to say, notwithstanding all these liardshii)S and repressive measures, the sturdy settlers held their uround, and slowlv and steadilv increased in numbers, lletween them and their oppressors a bitter antagonism, and in some instances a lierce animosity, sprang up; and it is not wonderful that it should ))e so. The settlers found themselves dei)rived of all civil rights and legal protection, at the mercy of a set of al)sentee proprietors, who i)roldbited them from using or owning the land, and even from utilizing the harbours, till tlieir own retainers were provided for. Still 'he battle went on. There must have been among these settlers a strong, manly, independent spirit. Had there not been among them men possessing much vigour of character ami solid M'ortli, they could not have carried on the contest so bravely against tlie mynnidons of their wealthy oppressors, and at last conquered them, and won their freedom. •A V^ ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 65 It reminds one forcibly of the contest between the patricians and plebeians, in the early days of Eonie, after the ejection of the kings— a contest of right against might — which went on for two hundred years, and ended in the victory of the plebeians. The latter 6ndured terrible miseries and hardships — they were denied their share of the public lands, and of all part in the government ; they became debtors and serfs to the patricians, just like the poor Newfoundland fisher- men to their oppressors. Still they held on and gained their rights step by step — got their tribunes to protect them — their decemviri and agrarian laws, and at last became eligible to the consulship. The patricians fought desperately for two centuries to prevent all this, but in the end were beaten, and had to admit the plebeians to a fair share in the government of the State, just as here in Newfoundland the democracy won their rights. And there is another point of resemblance. The whole contest in Home was a bloodless one. There were no tumults or riots — no rev^olutions. Both parties were possessed of self-control, and obeyed the laws till they were altered. So here — the settlers, though surely wronged, never had recoursy to violence. They bore their lot patiently, and sought their rights by con- stitutional methods, and finally conquered. Still the the contticL was very trying, and the sufferings of men who were kept outside the pale of law, and without any civilizing influences, were intense. When the merchant adventurers found that the settlers were increasing notwithstanding all their repressive efforts, they applied, in 1670, to the Lords 66 NEWFOUNDLAND : ol" Trade and riantatioiis, and declared that unless tlie settlers were removed the fisheries would ])e destroyed, and tlie English navy deprived of its supply of seamen. It :*eems almost incredible, but it is true, that these Lords sent out Sir John Berry, a naval officer, with orders to drive out the resident fishermen and l)urn their dwellings. This barbarous edict was not revoked for six years, and wluit cruelties were wrought under it Mill never be known. There is, however, reason to believe that Sir John Berry was a humane man, and did not strictly carry out his orders. The climax of re- ])ression was reached when a certain Major El ford, lieutenant-governor at St. John's, very strongly urged the ministers of the day " to allow no woman to land in the island, and also that means should be adopted to remove those that were there." This was indeed going to the root of the matter, but it does not appear that any one tried to carry out this sweeping proposal. The deportation of the women would have been a difficult task. In point of fact, these Newfoundland patricians were many degrees more thorough-going and unscrupulous than their Koman prototypes. They got the Star Chamber of Charles I. to issue an enactment that if a person in Newfoundland killed another, or stole the value of forty shillings, the offender was to l)e sent to England, and on conviction of either offence, to be hanged. Another law promulgated by this notorious Chamber was that the master of the first ship entering a harbour was to be admiral for the season and magis- trate for the district, with unlimited power to decide all ENGLANDS OLDEST COLONY. 07 questions regarding property and all other disi»iitus. Thus arose the government by " Fishing Admirals," Jis they were named — perhaps the most absurd and tyrannical pretence at the Jidministration of justice ever devised l)y the ingenuity of man. Strange as it may sound, in 1()*.>8, in the reign of that liberal Sovereign William III., the British Parliament passed an Act, at the request of the patrician monopolists, confirming and extending this preposterous arrange- ment. This unfortunate statute of William for a very long period obstructed all improvement in the country. It ordained that the master of a vessel arriving first in a harbour was to be admiral for the season, and was allowed to take as much of the beach as he chose for jhis own use. The nuisters of the secontl and third I vessels arriving at the same harbour were to be vice-admiral and rear-admiral, with simih>r privileges. |Wlien these worthies had helped themselves, if any- I thing was left, the unfortunate fishermen might ol>tain a scrap. No attention was paid to the qualifications of [these Fishing Admirals. The first rude, ignorant skipper [who made a short passage was absolute ruler for the season. Thev were the servants of the merchant adventurers, and therefore personally interested in questions of property that arose, and as one of them niiively remarked, " it would be strange if they did not do justice to themselves." They were the enemies of fhe poor residents, whom they wanted to trample out. The triumph of the merchants over their fellow- subjects in this lone isle was now as complete as that M a warrior who storms a city. Their servants, the 08 NEWFOUNDLAND : I'isbin;,' Ailruirals, took possession of the best fishinj,'- stations, drove out the inhabitants from their own h;)iis3s when they chose, and seized their g.ardens and lishing-grounds. In determining cases they took bribes without any pretence at concealment, and carried on, for many long years, a system of robbery and oppression. All accounts agree in representing them as at once knaves and tyrants, though doubtless there were individual exceptions. In vain did the resident people, groaning under the lash of these petty tyrants, petition tha Lords of Trade and lay before them their grievances. The wealthy merchants were able to get their petitions thrown aside with contempt. Again and again they asked for the appointment of a Governor to regulate the affairs of the island. That, above all, was a measure the merchants and ship-owners dreaded. It might disturb their pleasant monopoly and weaken their control. A Oovernor might take the part of the settlers, and they liercely resisted his appointment. What they wanted was, as one of their own party expressed it, "that Newfoundland should always be considered as a great English ship moored near the Banks, during the lishing season, for the convenience of English fishermen, the people being subject to naval laws and regulations." During this hard struggle the lot of these poor fishenien must have been very bitter, and the miseries they endured terrible. It is not wonderful that many of them became utterly discouraged and escaped to America, and there aided materially in building up the New England fisheries. In their little wooden hamlets ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. G9 sprinkled around the sea-margin their outlook was dreary enough. They could earn but a hare subsistence. They had no schools for their children, no ministers of religion among them. All around were the dense woods extending to the seashore, no roads, and only a few paths cut through them. Before tliem was the great ocean from which alone they were permitted lo (h-aw their means of subsistence. Their treatment was so harsh that if in these days the inmates of a prison or a workhouse were dealt with in like fashion, the public indignation would l)e loud and deep. How could they advance in the arts of civilized life, or improve their adopted country ? It is marvellous to find that they still held on and never gave way to despair; resisted their foes l)y patient constitutional measures and by petitioning to have their wrongs righted. They were conscious of having right on their side, and had faith that it would win the day in the long run. Their courage and patience were at last rewarded. A day of deliverance began to dawn. The (lovernment and people of England at length found out that they had been deceived, both in regard to the country and the character of its fisheries, and that the notion of their being " a nursery for sailors to man the royal navy " was a snare and a delusion, liestrictions on the settlement of the country were very slowly and cautiously removed, one after another. The obnoxious statute of William III., however, was left still un- repealed, and retarded all improvements. The change for the better was brought about by the commodores 70 NEWFOUNDLAND: and cajjliiins of the royal ships whicli Mere periodically appointed to this station. They saw tlie terrible injustice which was inflicted on a patient and inoffensive l)eople. One of them, named Lord Vere lieauclerk, a clear-headed, l»enevolent nobleman, made such strong representations to the Board of Trade that the British (lovernment were induced to appoint Captain Henry Osborne, in 1729, to be the first Governor of Newfound- land. This constituted a new era in the history of the (.'olony, antl pioneered the way for all the reforms which followed. It was a practical reco*,'nition of Newfoundland as a Colony of the Empire, and no longer a mere fishiuf^-station. Tins rendered all sorts of improvements possibilities in the future. But a long and weary struggle for constitutional freedom and civil rights had yet to follow. In fact, it was not till about eighty years ago that the last of these unjust laws was repealed, and people were allowed to possess lands and build houses, and take some steps towards self-government. In fact, the reign of the Fishing Admirals did not end for nearly another half-century, owing to the pertinacity with which tlie monopolists resisted the action of the new method of naval government under admirals and captains of the British Navy, which, though not the most desirable way of governing a colony, was a great improvement on anything yet enjoyed. It prepared the way for local civil government, and finally for political freedom. In 1729, when the first Governor arrived, the resident population had grown to be six thousand strong. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. Tl To recount the evv3nts which followed in tlie struggle for freedom would be to write the history of Newfound- laud, iiud that does not enter into the scope of the present volume, which is limited to giving some account of the condition of the Colony in the i)resent year of our beloved (Queen's Diamond Jubilee. The autlior has previously told thj story of the Colony in his " New- foundbmd, the oldest British Colony," and in the "Text-Book of Newfoundland History," to which the reader is referred for fuller information. It must suffice to mention that, although tlie sufferings of the people were mitigated, they were l»y no means ended. It Mas no longer illegal to settle in the country, l)ut still no i^ermission was yet given to cultivate the soil, and no stage could be erected for handling fish, by the residents, till their lords and masters from England were satisfied. During so many years of oppression the fishermen had become so poor that they had to obtain advances in provisions and clothing at the commencement of each fishing season, at high prices, and at the close to pay for them in fish, tlie price of whicli was fixed by the supplier. I'hus arose the " supplying," or " credit system," which kept the fishermen constantly in debt and dependent on the capitalist, and in the end caused innumerable evils. Still slowly and step by step improvements came. The resident population increased in numlars and influence. The navigation laws were extended to the Colony. A Supreme Court for the administration of justice, presided over by a Chief Justice and two assistant judges, was established in 1793. Freedom of worship 72 NEWFOUNDLAND : and complete religious toleration were granted, by which a deploral)le system of religious persecution was ended for ever. Still the advance was slow, as may be judged by the fact that, as late as 1799, houses erected in St. John's without a licence were pulled down by order of the Governor; and restrictions on building, and on enclosing and cultivating the ground, were not entirely abolished till 1820. The first road was made in 1825. In 1832 the great boon of liepresentative Government was granted, and in 1854 tliis concession was enlarged and completed by the grant of Responsible Government. In lh34 the resident population was found to be seventy-five thousand ; and the population of St. John's was fifteen thousand. . The victory was complete all along the line. The battle for freedom was won against heavy odds. We cannot withhold our admiration from a people who dis])layed such patient fortitude amid sore sufferings and hardships. There must have been among them many a " Village Hampden," who on this obscure stage confronted tyranny with "dauntless breast." It was Englishmen against Englishmen. It was the proud, domineering aristocracy of the West Country on the one side, with their followers, and the plucky, stubborn democracy, whose ancestors had been born on the same soil, on the other side. But the latter were powerfully aided by a gallant contingent from the Emerald Isle, who had, year after year, arrived, and in spite of all opposition, established themselves in the new land. During the troublous times in Ireland they had fled from oppression, and found new homes beyond the ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 73 Western waves. They came at length to be about equal in numbers to the settlers from England. In the battle for freedom they were sure to be on the right side; and in the long sti-uggle for civil and religious liberty and political rights they and their leaders played no insignificant part. In fact, in the final struggle they led the van. True to their traditions, however, the "merchant adventurers" fought desperately against every inno- vation that threatened the old order of things, and resisted every amelioration of the social and politicid condition of the people. They protested against the a|)pointment of a Governor ; they supported the rule of the Fishing Admirals; they frantically resisted the introduction of courts of law and magistrates. Above all, they concentrated their forces against liepresentative and Responsible Government. In later years their followers and supporters here fiercely opposed the introduction of railways, or any other way of opening up the interior and turning to account the rich natural resources of the country. They wanted the people to be chained down to the fisheries, of which they were to be lords and masters. But the plucky plebs met and overthrew them at all points ; and now many of their modern representatives have renounced their antiquated creed, and joined the party of progress, being convinced that old feuds should l)e forgotten, and all join hand- iu-hand for the improvement of a country whose progress has been so unworthily retarded, but wldch will yet be a bright gem in the colonial Empire of Great Britain. 74 NEWFOUNDLAND: We have seen that the Imperial Mother, deceived and misled by the selfish adventurers, dealt hardly and harshly with her eldest-born Colony; and, by unjust and cruel laws, sustained the tyrants for more than a century and a half. No other ]>ritish Colony met with such harsh treatment. When Lord Salisbury described it in euphonious terms as having been " the sport of historic misfortunes," he would have Ijeen nearer the mark had he said " the victim of historic wrongs and cruelties." For not only did England back the oppressors, but, worse still, she formed treaties with the French, by which the best half of their island home was torn from the people, and virtually given over to another nation. These French shore -treaties, as we shall see farther on in this volume, have done more than all other causes combined to retard the progress of the country. Fishing privileges given to the French by the Imperial Treaties have been the means of excluding the people of Newfoundland from settling on tlie best portion of the island; while the concession of St. Pierre and Miquelon has given enormous advantages to our French rivals, which, having been supplemented by their bounties, threaten the prosperity of our fisheries. To crown all, St. Pierre and Miquelon have become smuggling depots by which our revenue has suffered, and many of our people become demoralized by the temptations held out to engage in smuggling practices. It is surely time that the lirave and generous people of England looked these facts in the face, and took into considera- tion the wrongs of the past which have been met by ENGLAND S OLDKST COLONY. 75 unswerving and devoted loyalty on the part of her eldest-born Colony. Some atonement for that past is surely called for, and some help to remove existing evils that still sorely hamper the Colony's progress. The natural capabilities of the country and the spirit of its people may be judged of by the substantial progress made since the removal of restrictions and the grant of self-government. Contrast the Newfoundland of the past, with its Fishing Admirals and the serfdom of its people, with Newfoundland in this year of Her Majesty's Diamond Jubilee. The whistle of the loco- motive is heard in the solitudes of the interior, where the deer, the wolf, and the fox were once the undis- turbed proprietors. Seven hundred miles of railway now traverse the island, and ere the year closes a steam ferry will connect the island with Canada. Instead of bog, rock, and marsh, as the monopolists represented, the interior is proved to contain magnificent stretches of fertile land and rich forests ; coal beds and mineral deposits of immense value. Already the copper mines of the north have yielded ten million dollars' worth of ore, and one iron pyrites mine on Pilley's Island has si lipped ore to the value of nearly a million dolhirs. One of the most valuable iron mines in the world has been recently opened near St. John's. Asbestos lias been discovered in numerous localities, and borings for petroleum have been successful. Lumljering is active ; agricultural products already average the value of seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars annually. The Atlantic cable finds a resting-place on the shores of the island, and numerous land-lines connect the f$ NEWFOUNDLAND: exterior districts with the capital. There is direct steam communication with England and America. All this is mainly the result of some forty years of progress. The revenue has risen to one million six hundred thousand dollars per annum. The population has increased to two hundred and ten thousand. The misfortunes of fires in the capital and a severe financial crisis have been met by a spirited people and sur- mounted. The island now presents an inviting field for capital and enterprise. Such is Newfoundland's record of progress during the reign of (^ueen Victoria. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. ft CHAPTKll Y. Evolution of thu Railway in Newfoundland — Pioneer Road-making Boventy years ago— Inception of a Railway— Sir William White- way, the Railway Leader —Opposition to the Project— Story of the Construction of the Great Northern and Western Railway— R. G. Reid, Esq., Contractor— Resources of the Country opened up— Character of the Contract— Advantiges to the Colony— Settlement on Lands— Forests and Mineral riches— Will the Railway be Remunerative? For more than two hundred and fifty years after the occupation of the ishmd by the English no roads were constructed. Intercourse between the fishing-settle- ments sprinkled around the coast was maintained by sea, or by rough paths cut through the w^oods. The first step in civilization— the construction of roads — had not yet been taken. This was a result of the old theory, that the island was to be a fishing-station and nothing more. It was held that for fishermen the natural and proper l»;.ghw\ay was the sea, and such a luxury as a road quite unnecessary, if not demoralizing, as it might distract their attention from their proper occupation. But a daring innovator, in the person of Sir Thomas Cochrane, arrived as Governor, and to the horror and disgust of the fishery patricians, he entered on road-making, and constructed nearly twenty miles 78 NEWFOUNDLAND: of roads of a cheap description to some of the villa«,'es in the neighbourhood of the capital. This was done only seventy years ago. The people were delight<;d. They had no idea till then what a pl3asant and useful thing a road was, and some of them began to clear lands and settle themselves in neat comfortable farm- houses along these lines of road, and to raise crops and feed cattle. It was quite a new era. When, a few years after, the ptiople obtained Representative Govern- ment, tliey insisted that an annual grant for building and repairing roads should be voted out of the revenue, lioad-making went on rapidly. One road, eighty mil^ in length, was constructed from St. John's to Placentia, tlie oUl French capital, and many others in various directions. The people began to discover that the nearer portion of tlie interior, at all events, was not a dreary moras? but contained excellent land and pleasant sites for farms, liy the year 1 870 there were one thousand miles of postal roads constructed, and two thousand miles of dislrict roads connecting with these. One innovation is sure to infroduce others. The ideas of the people began to expand, and ere long they discovered what great possibilities their country pre- sented. These roads traversed only a narrow margin within a few miles of the salt water, and connected together the various fishing towns and villages. But now the people began to ask, " What about the interior of this great island, containing forty-two thousand square miles, of which we know little or nothing ? Is it not possible to turn this huge territory to profitable ENOLANUS OLDEST COLONY. 70 iiccount ? " Sxich questions were emphasized by the fact that the popuhition was increasing rapidly, at the rate of twenty-two per cent, each decade, whilst the fisheries, which furnished thfiir main source of subsistence, were stationary, and in some places de- clining. No wonder that it should be asked, Is this vast interior to remain for ever an unpeopled wilder- n»jss ? and are the people to be cooped up to starve along the sea-margin ? By some fortunate chance, in 1864, a geological survey, under the direction of Alexander Murray, F.G.S., an eminent geologist, had been appointed, and the annual reports of the scientific officials who conducted it began to tell of vast stretches of good lands in the interior, well adapted for settlement, amounting in the aggregate to several millions of acres, of magni- ficent pine forests, of mineral deposits, of extensive coal beds. These reports were at first received with derisive incredulity by all but a few. When, however, in 1864, a rich copper mine was opened at Tilt Cove, and was speedily followed by the discovery and working of two others, the doubters and scoffers were partially silenced ; and they were forced to admit that, after all, there might be something in the interior worth looking after, if only you could get at it. It w^as at this stage that the idea of a railway began to float dimly before the minds of some of the more thoughtful and intelligent ; but it was at first spoken of with bated breath, lest advocacy might expose the bold innovators to the suspicion of insanity. By the great mass of the people the project of building a 80 NEWFOUNDLAND : railway was rc^^'anicl as entirely bjyoiid tlic inuaiis of the Colony, ^l^imid, short-sighted people declared it would bring no returns — " would not pay for the grease of wheels," as a sturdy old fishery notable expressed it — and that the end would be ruin and universal liankruptcy. The old opponents of change and progress regarded the building of a railway with horror. The opposition to it was formidable — all but overwhelming. Sir William Whiteway was at this time (1875) Solicitor-General of the Colony and a member of the Cabinet. He became convinced that there was only one way of securing a prosperous future for the Colony, and providing for the wants of an increasing popula- tion — namely, to open the interior by a railway, so as to turn to account its natunil resources, which he believed to be rich and abundant. His first act was, in the face of a strong opposition, among whom were members of the Cabinet, to obtain from the Legislature a grant for a survey through the island to Biiy St. George, in order to determine what facilities for railway construction it presented. This survey was carried out under the direction of Mr. Sandford, C.E., of Canada. It was not, however, till 1878, when Sir William became J'remier, that he was able to push forward his project. The construction of a transinsular railway, in addition to immediate advantages, he saw would in the future lead to a colonization of the interior, and the extension of farming, lumbering, and mining. Looking further, he saw that by such a line facilities of communication with the continent would > c ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 81 he fi^reatly increased, trade enlarj^ed, and many com- mercial and social advantages secured, so that, should the people desire it, union with the Dominion of Canada would ultimately become attainable. Having arrived at these conclusions, Sir William, on becoming Premier, adopted railway building as the main feature of his policy, and on it he risked his own political future and that of his party. From this course he has never swerved for twenty years. He faced courage- ously a powerful opposition at first, which was not confined to the ranks of his political opponents, but numbered members of his own party. With a tenacity of purpose that braved all risks, he continued his advocacy of the railway policy, threw himself on the support of the people, and now he has the satisfaction of seeing his statesmanlike project crowned with success. This Jubilee Year will witness the completion of the transinsular railway, five hundred and fifty miles in length, by which Newfoandland and Canada will be brought within six hours of steaming. The first sod of the first railway line was turned in 1881, and now there are nearly seven hundred miles of rail^,^'ay, all the property of the Colony. Sir William Whiteway's name will be for ever associated with the introduction of a r.ailway system. He had able co-workers, such as Sir Ambrose Shea, Mr. A. W. Harvey, Mr. A. M. Mackay, Mr. J. J. Little, and others, who stood by him in the conflict ; but to him must be accorded the distinction of being leader in a movement which has introduced a new order of affairs, and staited the Colony on the path of progress. That Sir William G 82 NICWFOUNDLANT) : lias the {,'reat majority of the people with liini in his railway policy is proved by the fact that lie has been for nineteen years a member of the Executive Council or Government, during fifteen of which he was Premier — a position which he fills at present. To people resident in densely-inhabited countries it might ap])ear almost an act of insanity to build a railway right through an uninhabited country. They would naturally say, settle the country first; extend common roads through it ; and then, when a sufficient population has occupied it, you will be warranted in building a railway for their accommodation that will be sure to pay. But that is not the accepted doctrine on the western side of the Atlantic. There the practice is to run a railway through the uninhabited country at first, in order to have it rapidly settled. The other method would be far too slow, and would not work in practice. Emigration follows the line of railway. From the trunk line branch lines are built in all directions, as settlement advances, and towns and villages spring up. Common roads radiate from the main line where a railway would be too costly. Of course, such railways for a time — perhaps a long time — do not pay working expense? even But indirectly t!hey far more than repay theii cost by immensely enhancing the value of the lands they open up ; by in- creasing the productiveness of the soil and the number of the inhabitants, whose contributions swell the public revenue, and whose industry adds to the wealth of the country. In this way the State finds it most advantageous to borrow money for the construction of EXOLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 88 railway:', paying for a tiino interest, as well as working expenses in part. The revenue i'rom such lines of railway increases steadily as settlement advances, and in the end the gain to the State, directly and indirectly, is enormous. The State may either build and own the line of railway, or, what is more usual, it may contract with a company for the construction, giving to such company a subsidy in money and land along the line. Or, instead of paying cash, it may give bonds to the company, guaranteeing a certain rate of interest on the bonds, which then become marketable ; while from the sale of lands along the line the company also derives a revenue. The method adopted in Xewfoundland, at first, was to pay an annual subsidy to a company who contracted to build the line, and to give them also grants of land along the line to the extent of five thousand acres of land for each mile of railway built, the land grants to be in alternate blocks of one mile along the line by eight miles in depth. The alternate sections were to be Government reserves, so as to prevent a monopoly of the land by a company. Unfortunate^ V, the first company with whom a contract was n/ade became bankrupt after the build- ing of only eighty-three miles, as far as Harbour Grace. Tliis arrested railway development for a time. Had the work been undertaken by a financially strong company, the line, thiee hundred and forty miles in length, would have been completed in 1885. After this collapse twenty-seven miles of railway were 84 NEWFOUxN'DLANI) : completed in 1888, connecting Placentia with the Harbour Grace line. This was done under the (Jovern- ment of Sir llobert Thorburn. In 1889 Sir William Whiteway again became Premier ; and, nothing daunted by the previous fiulure, he at once took stei)s for the continuance and com]detion of his railway policy. In this instance he was fortunate enough to meet with a contractor of high reputation and large expe- rience, who was also possessed of ample means. This was Robert (J. lieid, Esq., the Thomas lirassey of Canada, whose career as a contractor had placed him in the front rank of constructors of public works, and whose character gave sufficient assurance that whatever he undertook would be skiltully and honestly executed. The final contract for building a line via the Exploits and Humber Valleys, and thence ])y I'ay St. George to Port-au-lnisques, was signed on May 16, 1893 ; also {mother contract, in which Mr. Peid undertook to operate the new line, as well as the I'lacentia line, for ten years from September, 1893. 'I'he terms of the contracts were certainly favourable to the Colony. For constructing and equipping payment was to be at the rate of fifteen thousand six hundred dollars per mile, in debentures of the Government of Newfoundland bearing interest at three and a half per cent, per annum. Under the operating contract, there was to be a grant in fee-simple to the contractor of five thousand acres of land for each one mile of main line or branch railway throughout the entire lines of railway to be operated. Should the line, therefore, be five ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. Ho liumlrod miles in length, the land grant would be two millions five hundred thousand acres. One noteworthy feature of the latter contract is that the line is to be operated for the first ten years at the expense of the contractor — this being the time when the returns would be lowest and the maintenance of the way most costly. Ere the ten years had expired, it might reasonably be expected that the revenue of the line would considerably exceed the working expenses. Further, the land grants, which, of course, are in a -VNilderness condition, can only be turned to profitable account by the contractor, by promoting settlement and the utilization of whatever land or minerals they may contain, thus securing an increase of the population and wealth of the country, and swelling the revenue. It is the interest of the contractor to turn these lands to the best account, and in doing so he will give increased employment to the people. The (lovernment reserve of alternate sections will also be increased in value. Every way, therefore, the contract is favourable to the Colony. Without the railway and the contingent improvements which it brings, these lands must have remained for ever valueless. It should also be carefully noted that j\Ir. Reid has accepted these land grants along the line instead of an annual subsidy in money, as payment for operating the line for the first ten years. The cost of such operation per annum is estimated at one hundred thousand dollars, so that in ten years the contractor will have spent about a million dollars. The revenue, during those first years, from passenger and goods traffic, must 86 NEWFOUNDLAND : necessarily be small ; so that for those lands the Colony escapes the heavy cost of working the line at first, and will assume management when the line becomes profit- able. Moreover, Mr. Eeid engaged to make grants of land along the line at thirty cents per acre — the Government upset price— to all hona fide settlers. So vigorously has Mr. Eeid prosecuted the work that only thirty miles remain, and the whole line will be completed to Port-au- Basques this year. By August a new steamer of the first class will be placed on the route between Port-au-Basques and Sydney, Cape Breton, now called Cabot Strait. This vessel will be fitted up with all modern improvements and arrange- ments for comfort, and will make the passage to Sydney in less than six hours. There, connection with the American railway system will be made, and passengers can thus reach all parts of the continent by rail. Mails will be conveyed by thb route, and instead of a fort- nightly mail, the people will enjoy the luxury of a tri-weekly mail. Business men will reap the benefit. A most attractive route for tourists and travellers will be established. Sportsmen of all classes will resort to the new land for deer- stalking, salmon and trout fishing ; while those in search of fine scenery — sketching and photographing — will find, along the west coast and amid the lakes and valleys of the interior, all that they could desire. There is little doubt when hotel accom- modation is provided that Newfoundland will become a favourite health-resort. Its cool, health-giving summer breezes will be enjoyed by those who can escape from the scorching heats of the great cities of Canada and the ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 87 United States. Before the great innovator, the railway, old things will pass away and a new and better social and industrial life will begin. About the construction of the railway there can be but one opinion. The most competent judges pronounce it one of the best roads ever laid down in a new country. There is no flimsy work on it ; all is solid and calcu- lated to last. The road-bed is unsurpassed; the rails heavy and of the best material; the sleepers excel- lent; and the bridges and culverts, of granite and steel, are of the best construction. The passenger cars are of the same style as those used on the Canadian- Pacific Railway. Pullman cars ar<^- to form part of the equipment. In short, Mr. Reid has left nothing undone to make the line attractive and successful. The most liberal arrangements will l)e made for the promotion of a large passenger and goods traffic. Is this railway likely to prove remunerative ? Few lines, in a new country, present more abundant elements of success. In the valleys of Codroy, St. George's Bay, Bay of Islands, the Humber, Exploits, and Gander, which are either traversed or crossed by the railway, there are immense stretches of good land well adapted for settlement. Where the land is not arable it is in many places admirably adapted for cattle- raising, especially in the Exploits Valley, where there is an abundant supply of nutritious wild grasses in summer. Its proximity to English markets— only six or seven days' steaming — its excellent harbour, and its facilities for growing hay and root crops, all mark it out as a ranching district of great promise. An extensive 88 NEWFOUNDLAND : lumbering business has already sprung up along these valleys. At Bay of Islands is one of the finest herring- fisheries in the world, which, aided by the means of transportation furnished by the railway, will be greatly enlarged. Extensive marble beds are also found here. A coalfieltl of great promise is crossed by the railway near Grand Lake, and iron is also reported to be found in its neighbourhood. The finest coal-field of the island is in St. George's Bay. Asbestos and other minerals are discovered at various points, and as the country is opened up and settled these mineral discoveries may be expected to increase. Fine harbours are available on both the western and eastern shores. In fact, the railway opens up the most valuable lands in the country. All these advantages combined give ample assurance of future prosperity for the railway. That a small Colony, by no means wealthy, has discovered such spirit, energy, and sagacity as to construct such a line, and to make provision for payment of interest on its cost, is certainly greatly to its credit ; and it is now quite certain that it can shoulder the burden of debt incurred by its construction without any undue strain. Those who desire fuller information regarding the new line of railway and the character of the country through which it passes, are referred to the author's *' Handbook and Tourists' Guide" for Newfoundland. London: Trubner & Co. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 89 CHAPTER VI. Development of Mining in Newfoundlnnd — First C )ppor Mine ; how discovered — Predictions of Science — Value of Copper Export — Increasing demand for Copper— Iron Pyrites — Pilley's Island — Belle Isle Iron Mine; enormous deposit — Asbestos Mining — Discovery of Gold-bearing Quartz — Lead and Silver Ores — Polro- Icum on the West Coast. Forty years have elapsed since the first" prospecting work was done in Newfoundland. People were slow to believe in the possibility of these grim old rocks con- taining mineral treasures of any value. One day, in the summer of 1857, a prospector named Smith McKay, when engaged in searching for minerals, dropped into the cottage of a fisherman in Tilt Cove, a fishing village in Notre Dame Bay, on the north-east coast. His quick eye caught sight of a piece of yellow-coloured stone that stood on the mantelshelf. On inquiry as to whence the curious stone came, he was told that one of the children had picked it up at the bottom of a cliff close at hand, and that it had fallen from a yellow rock in the face of the cliff. Of course, the poor fisherman had no idea that it was of any value, but McKay knew that he had found a deposit of rich copper ore. Ere many days had passed, a mining licence was secured, and in two or three years the quiet village was a scene of mining activity. In fifteen years this mine had pro- duced 50,000 tons of copper ore, valued at $1,572,154, 90 np:wfoundland : and nickel ore worth 5|32,740. It is still worked and shows no signs of exhaustion, and gives employment to some five hundred miners. A few years .after, Tilt Cove w^as completely eclipsed l)y the discovery of a still larger deposit of copper ore at Bett's Cove, a dozen miles farther south, from which, in four years, 125,556 tons of copper ore, valued at three millions of dollars, wer ; exported. Three years later a new mine, which threw the other two into the shade, was opened at Little Bay, and for some years averaged an export of 20,000 tons per annum. Other mines were opened in the same district and worked with more or less success. At the close ol 1892, Mr. J. P. Howdey, head of the Geological Survey, was able to report that the value of copper ore, regulus and ingots, exported from 1864 to the end of 1891 was 19,193,790. Adding to this the value of iron pyrites exported from Pilley's Island up to the close of 1893 — namely, $759,451 — and of other minerals, such as lead, nickel, etc., together with copper ore, the aggregate reached $10,777,086, as the value of all the minerals exported from 1864 to the close of 1893, This was the outcome of that discovery of a bit of yellow rock on the mantel of a fisherman's cottao^e. Mining has thus developed into one of the leading industries of the country, and, as we shall see presently, continues to expand as the island is explored and opened up. The staple mineral hitherto has been copper, and among the copper-producing countries of the w^orld Newfoundland now ranks sixth. The demand o < < H >^ '■J < ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 91 for this mineral is likely to increase in the future and its value to advance, owing to the rapid development of electricity as a motor power, copper being essential in its various practical applications. Copper-mining in the future is therefore likely to reach large dimen- sions in Newfoundland. The extent of country over which it has been found, and in which it may be looked for with a prospect of success, according to the verdict of science, is not less than five thousand square miles, so great is the development of the serpentine formation with which the copper ore is always associated. Only a mere fragment of these serpentines have yet been examined, and this mainly along the shores. What the interior will disclose, now that it is becoming opened out and settled, only time will tell. Note. — Two names should be held in grateful remembrance in connection with the development of our mining industries. One is Charles F. Bennett, E^sq., merchant, who was really the pioneer in mining. He was the first who reached the conclusion that the island contained minerals. He led the way in prospecting, and spent large sums of money in explorations for minerals. The discoverer of the first copper mine, Mr. Smith McKay, was a partner with Mr. Bennett. He held to his belief tenaciously, in spite of st-off's and ridicule, and confounded his opponents by working the first copper mine at Tilt Cove. The other name is Mr. Alexander Murray, F.G.S., who was for twenty years associated with Sir William Logan in the Geo- logical Survey of Canada; and in 1864 took charge of the New- foundland Geological Survey, and conducted it for twenty years, till the time of his death. His reports during those years were invaluable, as they made known the natural resources of the country and ultimately led to their development. He formed a high opinion of the island after exploring it for twenty years, and gave the sanction of his name, as a scientific man of high attainments, to the favourable reports of its nnlural capabilities. 02 NEWFOUNDLAND : Mr. McKay, who found the first copper deposit, did not visit that region l[)y mere accident, or in a hap- hazard way. It was a suggestion from Sir William Dawson, the eminent geologist of Canada, that induced McKay to undertake a prospecting tour in that direc- tion. From his knowledge of the geological structure of that part of the island, Sir W. Dawson was able to predict that copper and other ores would be found, just as Murchison predicted the discovery of gold in Australia. He was aware of the large development of the serpentines here — a fact of primary importance. They belong to what, in Canadian geology, is termed the Ci)uebec group of the Lower Silurian series, and to the Middle or Lauzon division of that series — the metalliferous zone of North America. It is rich in copper ores, and is accompanied with silver, gold, nickel, and chromium ores. Now the Lauzon division is the one which is developed in North-Eastern New- foundland. Knowing this, Dawson gave the hint to McKay to search this region, and hence his appearance at Tilt Cove. It is one of the triumphs of science which has never been before published, so far as the writer is aware. Had the predictive communication not been made, these mines in such an obscure region might have remained undiscovered to this day. Truly " knowledge is power." It is to be noted that it is not in the serpentines that the copper ore is found, but in a chloritic slate, very ferruginous, which occurs both above and below the serpentine. Where the serpentines appear there is always a possibility that this ore-bearing chloritic ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 08 slate may be found, so that the serpentines become a guide to prospectors. When^ no serpentines are it is vain to look for ore ; but there may he large develop- ments of serpentine without any indications of ore. In the serpentine all the existing mines are situated. This mineral belt is about forty miles in length along the shore ; its l)readth inland is yet undetermined. There is good reason for believing that it extends right through the island to lk)nne Eay and Bay of Islands on the western coast. Chromic iron has been found associated with these serpentines. They also frequently afford a beautiful variety of marlde, as well as soap- stone, asbestos, and talc. An eminent American mining expert, who examined this region some years ago, said, " The copper is a beautiful yellow sulphuret, and contains from eight to twelve per cent, of pure copper. I have never seen finer copper in the course of my experience. The character of the rocks in which it occurs is such as to give an assurance of perpetuity in the working. A more promising mining field for copper I have not seen. Newfoundland is destined to become one of the greatest copper-mining countries of the world." Iron pyrites is another mineral abundant in the island. The only deposit yet worked on a large scale is at Pilley's Island, Exploits Bay. This splendid mine has been worked for several years. The ore is exported to the United States, and is used for the manufacture of sulphuric acid. The residuum of iron is used in the manufacture of the best steel. The ore gives fifty-four per cent, of sulphur, being superior 04 NKWFOUNDLAND : to that of Spain. In 1804 the quantity shipped was thirty-eight thousand two hundred and fourteen tons, valued at one hundred and ninety-five thousand seven hundred and eighty dollars. Adjoining it is another deposit, said to be much larger. It awaits capital for its development. The whole export of iron pyrites in 1803 was fifty-eight thousand three liundred and eleven tons, the value of which was two hundred and sixty-four thousand three hundred and eighty-four dollars. It was not till very recently that iron ore in work- able quantities was found in the island. As in the case of copper, its discovery was somewhat romantic. In Conception Bay, about twelve miles distant from St. John's, lies Belle Isle, six miles in length and three in l3readth. It was long noted for its excellent soil and the value of its farm products. No one dreamed that it held any minerals. Under the vegetable soil, however, there were extensive strata of rock of a dusky red colour, which cropped out at several places in the clifts around the shores of the island. Blocks of this reddish rock were detached by the weather and lay on the beach, but no one took any notice of these boulders. A fisherman, who was going to St. John's, chanced to observe that these rocks were much heavier than ordinary blocks, and it occurred to him that they would make good ballast. He piled a number of them into his little craft, and when leaving St. John's on his return trip, having obtained a cargo of goods, he left his ballast on one of the wharves. Some one with a sharper eye than ENGLAND'S OLDRST COLONY. 96 his fellows was struck witli tlio appearance and weight of the stones, and suspected that they were metalli- ferous. He- sent a sample to England for analysis, and was speedily informed that it was a rich iron ore. An exploration on the island followed, and the red rock was traced under the soil for a considerable distance. Soon the area was covered with mining licences ; and when the strata were partially uncovered, one of the finest deposits of iron ore in the world was found. An expert estimated that two of the bands included in the leases contain forty million tons of ore, so that practically it is inexhaustible. This discovery took place a little over two years ago, and already a costly mining plant has been erected, and arrangements made for shipping the ore. The first shipments were made towards the close of last year, and this year operations are likely to be con- ducted on a large scale. The " Nova Scotia Steel Company," of New Glasgow, are the lessees of the property, which consists of four grants, each being one square mile. The ore is brown hematite, and contains from forty-eight to fifty-six per cent, of metallic iron. At present it is used by the lessees for intermixture with Nova Scotia ores, the resultant pig-iron producing a superior class of steel. It is likely to find a market in the United States for a similar purpose. One remarkable feature of this mine, in which it differs from most iron mines, is the extraordinary ease with which the ore can be extracted. It lies near the surface, having only a thin soil above it which is 90 NEWFOUNDLAND : readily removed, laying bare the deposit for acres in extent. It has a jointed cleavage, causing it to break out in rhoml)oidal masses of all sizes. Blasting, except to a very small extent, is therefore unnecessary. A few men with crowbars and pickaxes can raise many tons a day. It would be difficult to find elsewhere ji mine that can be worked at such a small cost. All things considered, the value of such a mine must be immense. It does not, however, by any means include all the iron ore in Belle Isle. The remainder of the island is under licences of search by various parties, and develop- ments are likely to be made this year. There is a strong probability that smelting works will be erected on the spot, especially as coal has been found along the new line of railway. This, howe\er, is not the whole storv of this iron deposit. It crops out for miles along the opposite northern shore of Conception Bay, as far as Island Cove. The prospector has been at v^^ork here ; numerous mining licences have been tpVen out, and samples of the ore, which is reported t ^ d very extensive, have yielded, on analysis, sixty-two per cent, of metallic iron. A wealthy mining firm in England has been negotiating with the licensees, and has purchased the property, subject to an examination by their own expert, who is now on his way here. It has also been long known tltat in Western New- foundland magnetic iron ore has been discovered at many points ; and at I*ort-au-Port, near Bay St. George, a very valuable deposit of chromic iron hm been found. 3 < a. 'A -3 ■A .J o 'A 'A ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 97 This iiiiue has been leased by an American Company, who are about to work it on an extensive scale. It would thus appear that Newfoundland is rapidly becoming an iron-producing, as well as a copper- producing country. " Facts are stubborn things," and cannot be set aside. It is also clear that the attention of mining capitalists has been drawn to consider its capabilities, and that its prospects as a field for investments in mining enterprises are widening rapidly. The- next most important mineral found in the island is asbestos, but the mining of this valual)le article is yet in its infancy. Scientific men, years ago, predicted that asbestos would be found in the island. Their opinion was based on the fact that the meta- morphic rocks and serpentines l the eastern townships of Quebc€ and the Gaspe Peninsula, in which the Canadian asbestos is found, dip under the Gulf of St. Lawrence, appear again on the west coast of New- foundland, extend many miles inland, and probably entirely across the island. "The serpentines," says a high authority, "with the granulite dykes which everywhere intersect them, contain vast deposits of minerals, and are to-day nearly virgin fields, except in the immediate coast-line, for the prospector or miner, and certain to become, in the immediate future, the seat of great mining operations." During the last three years search has been made for asbestos, and the predictions of the geologists have been verified to a very considerable extent. The " Halifax Asbestos Company," the " Newfoundland Mineral Syndicate" — an English Mining Company — and a H 08 NEWFOUNDLAND : iminl)er of individual adventurers, have been engaged in the search for asbestos, and their hibours, so far, show very satisfactory results, and prove the field to be a large and valuable one. The neighbourhood of Tort- au-Port has attracted most attention, but now that the railway has penetrated this region, a great impetus will be given to asbestos-mining, which ere long may become an important branch of mining industry. It is a fact of primary importance that this island, so productive in copper and iron ores, is also proved to contain extensive coal-fields. Since the visit ol Professor J. B. Jukes to Newfoundland, in 1842, the existence of a coal area of considerable extent, in the region around Bay St. George, has been known. This distinguished geologist, when a young man, spent a year in the examination of the island. He gave special attention to the carboniferous region on the west coast. In the south side of Bay St. George, near Crabb's Kiver, he discovered a fine seam of excellent cannel coal between three and four feet in thickness. After a careful examination of the region, he calculated that this coal-field 7> as about twenty-five miles wide by ten in length, and in all probability would be found a productive coal area. Mr. J. P. Howley, F.G.S., now at the head of the (Jeological Survey, discovered another coal-seam in this region, on Eobinson's Brook, about nine miles from its mouth, its thickness being four feet. Two other seams occur in the same section, the three seams giving a thickness of eight feet of coal. In 1889 a more thorough examination of this coal district was carried out, resulting in the discovery that ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 00 the whole of the coal seams in IJay St. George's Trough aggregate about twenty-seven feet in thickness. "To illustrate the importance," says Mr. Howley in his report, " of what such information w^ould mefin, it may be stated that an aggregate of twenty-seven feet of coal, provided the seams maintained their ascertained tliickness throughout, should for every square mile of superficial area they may be found to underlie, contain about 25,920,000 tons of coal." There is another trough known as " the inland trough (jf Humber lUver and Grand JLake," which will probably Ije found not less valuable than that of Bay St. George, and its importance is enhanced by the fact that the railway passes through it, so that its development will speedily follow. Here Mr. Howley has made some most important discoveries lately. He has established beyond all doubt that the coal-measures here form a continuous trough from about a mile to the west of Aldery Brook, to a point on the railway -line, a total distance in a straiyht line of eleven miles. Towards its eastern end the trough widens considerably. " Eighteen outcrops of coal were uncovered here, representing nine separate seams. The coal throughout is of good quality, some of it excellent." From one of these seams a car- load of coal was taken over the line to St. John's where it was tested with most satisfactory results. The analysis of it in England proved that the quality was excellent. One of the seams, marked No. 6 on Mr. Howley's plan, "is made up of two layers of excellent bright black coal divided by a layer of carbonaceous shale. The lower coal is three feet 100 NEWFOUNDLAND : six inches thick, and the upper, two feet eight iaches, making in all six feet two inches of good coal." Of course much remains to be done before its full extent and value can be determined; but that it is a most l)romising coal-field is put beyond reasonable doubt. If present indications prove to be reliable, here is a coal area from which the whole island could be supplied with coal, including household consumption, smelting of ores, and supplies for railway purposes. The region is but forty miles from Bay of Islands, where there is an excellent shipping port. In September of last year the people were startled by the announcement that a gold-bearing quartz reef had been discovered at Cape IJroyle, about forty miles south of St. John's. Here an experienced gold prospector had been at work for some time ; and after sinking a shaft on a quartz vein, he took out samples which were forwarded for assay to the eminent firm of Johnson, Matthey & Co., London. Their assay showed that the (juartz contained nearly three ounces of gold and one ounce and eleven pennyweights of silver to the ton of two thousand two hundred and forty pounds of quartz, value sixty dollars. This was not all. Samples of the grey rock of the country underlying the quartz were also sent, and yielded eight pennyweights twelve grains of gold. There was no trickery or deception in the matter, the transaction was hond fide. It was also stated that the samples sent for assay were not picked specimens, but taken at random from the heap. A gold fever speedily broke out, and in a short time thirty square miles around the quartz vein first opened ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 101 were covered by licences of search, to which more have been added since. It would be rash to build any large speculations on this discovery until the whole has been tested by further operations. All is yet in fjrcmio Jovis. But it is a fact of no little importance that a quartz reef, yielding three ounces of gold to the ton, has been discovered in Newfoundland. Add to this tliat pre- viously gold had been found at many places, but only in small quantities, such as would not pay for the working. Further, eminent geologists — such as the late Mr. Murray, the first director of the Geological Survey — had long ago predicted the discovery of gold from the character of the formations in many districts, where the rocks, he pronounced, were the equivalents of the gold-bearing formations of Nova Scotia. Other scientific men declared that gold might be looked for with a strong probability of success. Should the island, in addition to the minerals pre- viously named, also yield gold in paying quantities, it is needless to say that this would create a new era in its history. A gold-mining company has been formed to carry on operations at Cape Broyle as soon as spi'ing opens. Numerous individuals and small syndicates are also preparing for active operations. There is said to be a very large development of quartz veins at Cape Ikoyle, and time will tell whether they are auriferous. At present it can only be said that matters look very hopeful. The first discovery of lead ore was made many years ago at La Manche, near the north-eastern extremity of 102 NEWFOUNDLAND : Placentia V>ay. The workings here were carried on for several years, in a vein from three to six feet wide ; but skill and capital were wanting, and the enterprise col- lapsed. The sliores of Placentia Jiay are highly metalliferous, and a silver mine has lately been opened here, known as " Silver Cliff Mine," which presents very promising appearances. It has been taken up by foreign capitalists, who will carry on active operations this summer. It is l)elieved to be of great value, and has brought a high price. In 1875 a rich deposit of lead ore was found at Port-au-Port, and was worked for a time with very promising results ; but as this locality is on the so- called " French shore," the Imperial authorities ordered the works to be discontinued, the French having entered a protest against mining here as an interference with their fisherji rights. We had thus a practical illustration that Newfoundland is not mistress in her own territory. In addition to metallic ores, the island yields many substances of economic value which will be turned to profitable account as the country becomes settled. Gypsum of the best quality is distributed more pro- fusely and in greater volume in the carboniferous districts than in any part of the American continent of the same extent. In Bay St. George and Codroy the developments of gypsum are immense. Marbles, too, of almost every shade of colour have been found in various places, on both the western and eastern shores, especially at Bay of Islands. Granite of the finest quality, build- ing stones, whetstones, limestones, roofing slate are in ample profusion. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. K'i These materials will require time for their develop- ment; but recently the discovery of petroleum has been made, and this can be turned to immediate account. On the western coast, north of Cow Head, there is an extensive tract of country in which it was reported lonj,' since that oil had l)een seen Heating o)i the surface of lakes and marshes. Fifty years ago, Mr. Eeeks, an English naturalist, visited this part of the island for the purpose of studying the animals and vegetal )les of the region. He was the first to notice this oil, and in his articles which appeared in the Zooli);/isf he made special mention of it. So impressed was he with the appear- ance of one locality that he endeavoured to form a company to work it, but was not successful. Within the last three years explorations have been made and two companies formed. Borings have been going on for some months under well-qualified engineers, and at length with successful results. The company named " The Canadian Petroleum Company," operating near St. Paul's Inlet, have " struck oil " at a depth of a thousand feet. The quantity is reported to Ijc very large, aud the quality, on analysis, is found to be excellent. The second company are reported to have been equally successful. It is said that the oil shows itself over a large area. Mr. R. G. Reid, contractor for the railway, holds con- siderable land concessions in the petroleum district. The facilities for shipping the oil are said to be excellent. Here, then, is another promising field for industrial enterprise. 104 NEWFOUNDLAND : CHAPTER VII. Ncwfoinidlaud as nn AgricultnrRl and liimibering Cojintry — Extent of Arable and Grazing Land — Value of Farm rroducts and Domestic AnimalH — Lilierality of Land Acts— Homestead Act — Taper Pulp Act— Forest Wealth— Tlie Climate. In the chapter on railway extension some general idea was fnrnisheanks by the meeting of the Arctie Current and the Gulf Stream. When southerly or south-easterly winds l)low, this f(g is lolled in (jn the southern and south-eastern shores of the isLind, covering the bays, creeks, and headlands with a thick curtain of vapour. The fog seldom penetrates far iidand. When the coasts are shrouded in vapour the sun is often shining brightly a lew miles from the shore, and the atmosphere is dry and balmy. Tiie fogs are thus l)ut partial in their inlluence, being conlined to the southern and south-eastern shores of the island. On tlie western shore, after Cape L'ay is passed, fogs are almost unknown. The same holds good of the northern and nortli-eastern shores as far south as IJonavista. The great interior is free from fogs. Uesides, it is only during a portion of the year, and when certain winds l)low, that the fogs engendered on the l>aidvs are wafted shoreward. During three-fourths of the year the westerly winds carry the vapours .across the Atlantic, and the Jjritish Isles get the benefit of their moisture. However unjdeasant and gloomy these fogs may be, it must be remembered they are not prejudicial to health. Taken as a whole, the climate of the island is more temperate and more favourable to health than that of the neighbouring continent. The fierce summer heats of Canada and the United States, and the intense 110 NEWFOUNDLAND : cold of their winters, are unknown here. It is but rarely, and then only for a few hours, that the thermometer sinks below zero in winter, while the summer range rarely exceeds eighty degrees, and gene- rally does not rise above seventy. Like all insular climates, that of Newfoundland is subject to sudden changes, and its salubrity is evidenced by the robust, healthy appeamce of the people. Their clothing in winter does not require to be much warmer than that worn in Britain at the same season of the year. Open lireplaces are sufficient to warm the houses, and free exercise in the open air is at(; 1895 270,058 1896 187,517 1897 (estimated) 135,000 The value of the seal fishery is enhanced by the fact that it is prosecuted at a time when other northern countries are locked in icy fetters, and their people idle. But by the 10th of March each year the hardy Newfoundland seal-hunters embark, and amid the crashing floes they capture their prey in six or seven weeks. Thus the seal fishery interferes with no other industry, and the men who take part in it can follow up the summer fishery or engage in the cultivation of the soil. The Herring Fishery. The herring fishery has been sadly neglected. Had it been prosecuted with skill and energy — had care been bestowed on %e cure and packing, and had it been placed, years ago, under proper regulations, it might to-day have approached the cod fishery in value. In the annual report of the Department of Fisheries for the present year, it is stated that the value of the export of herring does not now exceed $250,000, whereas it might be T...ie to yield three millions of dollars annually. The quality of the herrings cannot be surpassed, and the quantity is enormous. The chief ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 121 seats of the herring fishery are Fortune, Phicentia, St. George's J Jays, and Bay of Islands. On Labrador herring of the finest quality are taken. The Fisheries Board are using strenuous efforts to improve and extend this valuable fishery. Fifty-three American vessels visited Placentia Bay this year, and took away 50,000 barrels of frozen herring, paying only a dollar a barrel. Had these been cured and packed on the spot, they would have realized about seven or eight dollars in the foreign market; and the handling of the fish, the making of barrels, and the freighting of vessels, would have given employment to large numbers. All this is lost by the present method of selling them at a low price to the Americans in a frozen condition. Salmon Fisiiekv. The export of salmon is comparatively small, not exceeding in value $100,000 per annum. It is either pickled or put in hermetically sealed tins. By neglect, the salmon rivers, naturally among the finest, have suffered sadly. Ignorance and greed of immediate gain led to "barring" the rivers with nets at the time when the salmon are ascending to spawn ; while other destructive practices prevailed, so that in many of the finest streams the salmon are almost extermi- nated. The Fisheries Board have been for some time grappling with these evils, by placing wardens to prevent " barring," and to keep the streams from being polluted by sawdust. By proper protection these streams will be restored to their former productiveness 122 NEWFOUNDLAND : and become one of the valujible resources of the country. The Lobster Fisheuy. The lobster fishery has expanded greatly during the last fifteen or twenty years. It now gives employment to 4000 persons, and is valued at |600,000 per annum. The Fisheries Board have been for six years carrying on the artificial propagation of lobsters at seventy different stations on the shores of the great bays, and with excellent results. The immense number of 450,000,000 of lobster ova are hatched artificially every year and planted in the w^aters. The fishery is also placed under strict regulations. These fisheries, then, constitute another, and at present by far the most valuable of the resources of the country. These " silvery quarries of the sea " are inexhaustible. They are now^ worth |7,000,000 ; but it is not too much to say that their value might readily be increased to $12,000,000 annually, if science were brought to bear more completely on their manage- ment, and capital and enterprise were more fully directed to their development and improvement. Anti- quated methods, that have retarded the advance of the fisheries, must be abandoned. The " supplying," or " truck system," has got its death-blow ; but it is yet far from dead. It must be rooted out before any substantial progress can be made. The altered con- ditions of modern days must be more clearly realized by those whose capital is embarked in the fisheries ; and they must gird themselves to meet the keen ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 123 competition in foreign markets which has been recently developed, and which calls for all their vigilance and energies. The aid of science in connection with the fisheries must be more extensively invoked. Here it is where Government can do much by a judicious and lil)eral support of a well-organized Department of Fisheries, which should co-operate with those who direct fishing operations, and ship the products to foreign markets. A good beginning has been made in the Department of Fisheries, "nd fair progress secured. What is needed is more thorough sympathy and support for those who are trying to introduce improved methods and new ideas in the working and protection of the fisheries. We have seen the security on which these great industries rest. The laws of Nature jjrovide for their stability. While the bays and shores of the island abound with fish, the Great Banks, with their swarm- ing fish-life, and their immense extent of 600 miles, are within a day's sail ; while Labrador, with its coast-line of 1100 miles, and the finny treasures of its waters, is under the jurisdiction of Newfoundland. Nothing is wanting but skill, labour, and perseverance to make the Newfoundland fisheries one of the most prosperous industries in the world. 124 NEWFOUNDLAND (ItAPTEIi IX. Form of Government— Evolution of Solf-govc'inruent— How tlio Colony is Governed— Vote by Ballot— Munhood Suffrage— Work- ing of Responsible Government— Education called for as a Safe- guard — Judicature — Constabulary — Fire Department — Post Office. In preceding chapters the evolution of popular govern- ment in NewfoundLind has been described. It was worked out through a slow and difficult process and amid many hindrances. But in battling for their liberties, the people gained intelligence, vigour, courage ; and by activity, combined with self-control and patient endurance, they at length won their freedom. We have seen the \icissitudes and trials through which the Colony passed, and the flagrant misgovernment which so long retarded its prosperity. Happily, all this has been left behind. Self-government, in its most advanced form, has been reached— a "government for the people and by the people." No more striking contrast could be presented than the government of the rough Fishing Admirals, or even that of the migratory governors and the captains of the Royal Navy, and the government of to-day, when the Legislature is elected by universal suffrage, and its members are responsible to the people. Every man on reaching the age of twenty-one, unless ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 125 lie be a criminal or a pauper, is entitled to a vote in selecting representatives for his district in the local Parliament, liepresentative government, which was the initiatory step, was granted in 18,'12, and twenty- three years later was completed by the concession of "responsible government." This is nothing more tlian the application of the jainciples of the British Constitution to the government of the Colony. It provided that " the country should Ije governed accord- ing to the well-understood wishes of the j)eople." The party who are sustained by a majority in the Legislature have at their disposal the appointments to the principal offices in the Colony. l»y them, too, the Executive Council is selected. The House of Assembly is elected by the people; the Legislative Council is appointed l)y the Queen. This, then, is the form of government by which the affairs of the Colony are at present regulated. It con- sists of a Governor, who is appointed by the Crown, his sahiry Ijeing paid by the Colony ; an Executive Council, selected from the party commanding a majority in the Legislature, and consisting of not more than seven members ; a Legislative Council of not more than fifteen members, nominated by the Governor in Council, and holding office for life ; and a House of Assembly, at present consisting of thirty-six members, elected every four years by the votes of the people. In the governing body, thus consisting of the Governor repre- senting the Queen, the Legislative Council representing the House of Lords, and the House of Assembly, is vested collectively the legislative power. They have 126 NEWFOUNDLAND : also exclusive jurisdiction over sucli matters as the pul)lic debt and the puldic property ; raisin<;j money on the credit of the (Colony by loan ; taxation ; postal service; trade; commerce; fisheries, etc. The Govern- ment is also the custodian of the piil)lic funds, from which are disbursed tlie expenses of the various public services. There are at present eighteen electoral districts, send- ing thirty-six members to the House of AsSvimbly. The voting is by ballot, and manhood suffrage is now established by law. The Governor, who is also Com- ma nder-in-(.'liief in and over the Colony and its depen- dencies, lias the power, in the Queen's name, to commute the sentence of a court of justice ; to summon, open, prorogue, and on occasions dissolve tlie local Parlia- ment ; to give or withhold assent to, or reserve for the Eoyal consideration, all bills which have passed both Chambers. Tlie Legislature must meet once a year. Tn reality, the electors govern the country, as they choose the members of the Assembly, who, by their votes, maintciiu in office or overthrow the Government of the day. The Governor may be said " to reign but not to rule." He is supposed to act in harmony with his responsilde ministers, unless in some special cases in which he may consider the principles of the Consti- tution or Imperial interests to be imperilled. On the whole, responsible government has worked well in Newfoundland ; and under it the country has made great and substantial progress. The boon of self- government, by which the people obtained the pow<^r of making their own laws, expending their revenue, and ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 127 j^niiding their own affairs, was to them of immense value, and, once granted, it couhl never be permanently withdrawn, it might be abused, and even attended by heavy drawl )acks, but the preponderance of advantages was altogether in its favour. It has proved to be a most valuable school for developing the intelligence and energies of a free people, and promoting national progress. It is no doubt true that here, as in Canada and most of the self-governing (Colonies, a certain price had to be paid for liberty. The freedom that has been long denied, when at length granted, is apt to have an in- toxicating effect, and is almost certain at first to be abused. Such was the result here, but not to a greater extent than in the Lower Provinces and Canada under similar conditions. The years which followed the introduction of representative government were, at election seasons especially, marked by strife and bitter contentions, leading to social discord, and at times to scenes of turbulence and disorder ; but the area of such troubles was but limited, and they speedily suljsided after the elections were over. They remind one of scenes which occurred in England at election times in the first quarter of the century, when party violence was rife. Here, too, it must be remembered, the popu- lation of the Colony was composed of two great bodies differing in race and religion, as was the case in Canada. Nearly half of the inhabitants were Catholics of Irish descent, among whom, it might naturally l)e expected, memories of old-world strifes, wrongs and oppressions would be rife. The otlier half were 128 NEWFOUNDLAND : rrotestiints of Enf,'lish and Sootcli descoiit, ^lio liatl bjen accustomed to lioM the ascendency. These were lieaded by a wealthy mercantile class, wlio were not disposed to ffive up their time-lionoured claim to rule. When, then, representative government came, it is not wonderful to find that old jealousies and distrusts were revived, and that eacli [>arty dreaded llie p(»li(ical 8Ui)remiicy of the otlier. Hence too often i)oli(ical excitement ran higli ; and in some cases outrages were perpetrated by tlie ignorant and turbulent, which added fuel to the. flames. I[ap})ily these are now things of tlie past — mere temporary brawls which subsided after a short time, and over wliich the judicious historian will draw the \eil and consign the memory of them to o])livion. Gradually botli parties learned, by bitter experience, the folly of sucli proceedings and the serious injuries thus entailed. Each learned to respect better the rights of the other, and to recognize the equality which the constitution estal dished. Kindlier feelings were restored, and old strifes were forgotten. Not that these discords disappeared in a day ; l)ut as intelligence spreads and liigher feelings are called into play, they will disappear for ever. The introduction of vote by ballot has had a most salutary effect in securing quietude at election seasons, and in preventing any undue influence being employed to interfere with the freedom of voting. After the storm has subsided the waves continue for a time to roll ; and so with political storms, the turbulence of the waves subsides only gradually. V. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 120 This much, too, may bo truly affirmed — that tlui intelligent men of all parties are now of one mind as to tlie danger of liaving unetlucated masses of men exercising the right of electing by their l)allots members of a Legislature; and hence that a more thorougli education of the whole people is essential to the safety and well-being of the commonwealtli. ft Is no doubt true that — " Tlu) crowning fact, Tiio Kinglit'st net, Of Freedom i^ n Freeman's vote." Hut it is equally true that it is all-important that the voters sliould be possessed of intelligence and integrity, if they are to wisely control and protect the liberties and the life of the country. The call for universal education is emphasized by the boon of universal suffrage. The safety of the State demands it. Those into whose hands power has now passed must be educated in order that they may use that power wisely, otherwise society may be overthrown. IJemocracy is everywhere steadily advancing. Statesmen, aristocracies, middle classes, moneyed classes, are all called upon to make note of the fact that big-fisted, broad-shouldered Democracy has arrived. This rough Frankenstein of the nineteenth century has enormous power for good or evil ; and the interest of every community consists in educating it, warming its religious faith, purifying its morals, and inspiring it with a reverence for law, justice, and religion. This is especially true of New- foundland ; and it is gratifying to note that tlie Legislature has made a liberal provision for the education K 130 NEWFOUNDLAND : of the pu()|)l(3, and tliat aliv.ady a groat improvement is visible. Jl'DICATUllK. '''lie Sii])reme Court was instituted in IS2() l»y the promulgation of a royal eliartc^-. To it and to magis- trates belong the correct interpretation and ])n»per (Miforeement of the Ltws of the country. The Supremo Court is composed of a Chief Justice and two assistant judges. There is also a court of jjal)riidor, with civil iind criminal jin-isdiction over such parts of Lalmidor as lie within tlie government of Newfoundland. Tliere are district courts for St. John's and Harbour Grace. Courts of general and (quarter sessions are held, and are presided over by the stipendiary magistrates and justices of the peace. 'I'llK CONSTABULAJIV AND FlllE I)ErAT{TMKNT. For the detection and prosecution of law-breakers iind the ])reservation of the ]mblic peace, a constabulary force is maintained. 1( consists of an ins])ector-general, a superintendent, a chief ins])e(!tor and district ins])ectors, head-constables, sergeants, constables, and nine m(mnted ])olice. The total force numbers one hundred and twenty-one. It was first orgard/ed after the withdrawal oj the military in IcSTl, and was modelled on the famous lloyal Irish Constabulary, being in every respect discijdined and e(xui])])ed as they are. It is a very hne body of men, and ])erfoims its duties most efficiently. ( )f the whole force, forty-seven ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 181 constitute tho St. .lolm's stiifT, and the rest are distri- Imted ill Ifarljoiir (liace, Caibouear, and the various' outposts. Jt is maintained at a cost of |;r)(),()00 pei iinnuni. Properly sl)eakin•.,^ it is a military as well as a civil fon^e, l>ein^' carefully drillcMl in tlie use of arms. Last year, on the aj.'pointmeiit of I^Ir. 'lolm It. McCowen, a most zealous and (^HhMent officer, to l)e Inspector-CJeneral, tlu? constabulary force underwent a, tliorou^'h reorganization, wliicli has j^reatly increased its (efficiency; wldle its usefuliuiss lias l)een «\\ten(hM| l»y coml)ining it witli tlie Fire J )e])iirtnH(nt, wliicli is also un(l(!r the direction of the lnspector-(}eneral. Tlu; city of St. John's is divided into three police districts, each havinff a station, and the officers and men of eacli are responsible for the peace and good order of tlieir respective precincts. Telephone communication is maintained day and night l)etween the three stations, and also the i)olice office. The system has Ixien nnxlified somewliat, and made an exact c()unter})art of tlie lloyal Irish Constabulary, which is a(hnitt(!d NoTK. — Mr. J. 11. McCowen, Inspc^ctor-Uonorul of Nowfoundltiiid Conalabulary, i.s iin IriHluuan by birth, ami the ton of a l{riti»h army officor. He Bcrvod nine years in the lioynl Iriwli ConHtnbulary with (liHtiiiction, and on rctirinj? frcni the sservice received very liigh credentials from liis superiors. In 1S71 he was appointed to the Newfoniidland Constabulary, and rendered valual>le aid in its or}j;anization, especially in connection with the mounted force. Afterwards he was promoted to the governorship of II. M. Penitentiary. Ili.s management of that establishment elicited the highest com- mondation. He is now promote*! to the important post of Inspector- (Jeneral of Constabidary ; and the Piro Department is also i)liiced under his control. In his new position he has again disphiyed his geni'iH for orgiuiization, and greiitly incrensed the eilinie?icy df IidIIi the « oastalmlary force and lire brigades. 132 NEWFOUNDLAND : to be unsurpassed in efficiency. The senii-niilitary character of the foi'ce is apparent in its organization, uniform, equipment, and discipline. The most com- petent judges liave conceded that the discipline, phy- si(|ue, and general tone of the whole force will hear comparison with any similar department on the con- tinent of America. Such eminent authorities as Com- modore Curzon Howe and Sir Herbert Murray have spoken in commendatory terms of the managemejit of the constabulary foi-ce. But perhaps the Inspector-General, Mr. J. E. McCowen, has rendered a still more important service by hi.-- admirable reorganization of the Fire Department in St. John's after the great fire of 1892. The city is divided into three fire districts, each having its station fitted with all modern improvements necessary to com- plete a first-class fire department. Everything is auto- matic that can be made so. The horses become free by means of a simple pull. The harness is suspended directly over each horse's phice in front of the engines and liose reels, and is automatically dropped on their backs. Each horse knows his place perfectly well, and rushes to it the moment the alarm is given. The fire- men sleep in the dormitory above the apparatus floor, with everytliing so arranged that the moment the gong sounds they can be out of bed, dressed, and on their way to the fire in the short space of forty seconds. Cases have occurred in which from the momeit the alarm was given until tlie firemen and apparatus vere at the scene and had water playing on the fire, oaly i'our minutes had elapsed. The newest and most FNGLANDS OLDEST COLONY. 133 ii])proved " (Tamcwell " Mro-ALiriii Telegraph System is employed, and gives unqualified satisfaction. The total force numbers 124 men. There are Vo horses, 45 "(ramewell" alarm boxes, 3 steam engines, extension ladders, gongs, etc. The men are paid, volunteer fire-brigades l>eing discarded. The total cost to the citizens per annum is only |9000 — a very moderate amount. The brigade protects about thirty millions' worth of property, only one-third of which is insured. It is believed that there is not anywhere, in proportion to its size, a more efficient and complete hre department. It is the boast of Inspector-General McCowen that in fifteen minutes from the sounding of an alarm he can have 150 fire-fighters on duty. As the benefits of this service are felt in arresting fires and reducing the destruction of property by contia- grations, the rates of insurance will be reduced Ijy the fire insurance companies, whose profits will be increased l>y an extension of insurance at more moderate rates than at present. The general prosperity of the com- niunitv will also l)e advanced, through the confidence and security inspired by these improved fire-defences. Post-Office. Tlie postal service, under the direction of the present energetic Postmaster-General, J. D. Fraser, Esq., has been brought to a condition of great efficiency, and compares not unfavourably with that of any other Jiritish Colony. The post-office in St. John's is fitted up with all modern improvements, and the building 1.''.4 NEWFOUNDLAND : itsult', with its various aiTcingeiiiciits, is creditable to the Colony. A parcels post with the United Kingdom, the United States, and Canada is of great advantage to the community. There is also an inland parcels post. The book post, post cards, stamps, post-office boxes, money orders, letter carriers, present every facility that could Ije reasonably desired, and prove tliat this service is managed with a view to the wants of the general public. The total number of post-offices in the Colony is forty-six. Postal communication between St. John's, the United Kingdom, and European countries, the United States, and Canada, is maintained by various lines of steamers. Communication with the outside world is regular and frequent. On the completion of the new railway, there will be a tri- weekly mail. Lighthouses. Tlie coast of the island is well lighted, and almost every year witnesses an increase of lighthouses and other means of securing the safety of its large seafaring population. At present there are thirty-nine light- houses and beacons maintained by the Newfoundland (lovernment, and nine bv the Canadian Government. There are three fog-signals and one whistling buoy at the most dangerous points around the coast under the Newfoundland Government, and seven fog-signals at the (,'anadian lighthouses. The erection of most of these has been the work of the last fifty years— a sufficient proof of progress in that time. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 135 Banks. The Savings Bank is a Government institution, and it is enacted by statute that " the general revenue of the Colony is liable for all moneys deposited in the bank, and all interests payable thereon." This gives absolute security to depositors. The rate of interest is three per cent. The deposits at present amount to ahout |1,300,000, and are steadily increasing. Tlie other Banks are " Tlie Bank of Montreal," "The Bank of Nova Scotia," and " The Merchants' Bank of Halifax." The Newspaper Buess. The following newspapers are puljjished in St. John's : — the lloyal Gazette — weekly ; the Eveniufj Tdcijram — daily ; the Evening Herald — daily ; the Daily iYeit's— daily, also a weekly issue ; the EntcrpriHC — weekly ; the Trade A'cviV?^;— fortnightly ; the People — monthly ; the Centenary — monthly. The following papers are published elsewhere: — Harbour Grace Standard — weekly; the Twill inyafe Sitii — weekly ; the Trinity Record — weekly. 130 JnKWFOUNDLAN!) : CHAPTEli X. FINANCES UF THE COLONY. Ncwromullaml's licvcnue— llalc of Taxation— Public Dubt per Hciul : liow llcprtHonted— Stiitf of tlie Revenue at Tresent— Kctrencli- nicnt Policy— liUte Connnercial Crisis : Rapid recovery from — Financial Condition ut the Close of 189G— Reforms. Newfoundland is a iruu-trjulc Colony. Its rcvuiuiu is almost entirely derived from eustonis duties on imports, only ii smjill proportion arising from Crown lands, light dues, and tlie postal serviee. Tlu; duties on imports are partly ad valorem, and partly speeiiic, but only to a very slight extent ditl'erential, the tarill' being designed for revenue purposes only, not pro- tection. All expenses for such matters as mtiking and repairing roads, bridges, Ijreakwaters, public wharves, etc., are ilefrayed out of the public revenue, the Board of Works having charge of this department. The pro- vision for the poor, for education, for the maintenance of the police force, ibr the administration of justice, and for the whole Civil Service, is also chargeable on the ireneral revenue. The following figures show the condition of tlie revenue since 1887 : — ■/J o '—I o >5 < 'A ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 137 YkAU. KKVIiNUK. 1S87 $l,'J7l.VJ0U 1888 l,;i7(>,u:J0 188D l,3G'2,8'j;J 1890 1,454,53(1 1891 1,820,20<; 1892 1,883,791 1893 1,753,845 1894 1,041,035 1895-96 1,564,45V If wc take the revenue of LS'jn-'JC), |;1.,5G4,457, and the present popuhition as 210,0(10, we find that there is a taxation of j|7*44per head for the entire popuhition. It must be remembered, however, that there are no direct taxes in the Colony except a municipal tax in St, John's for water, light, sewerage, anil street improve- ments, which is but smalL This amount of ,|;7*44 pur capita represents almost the whole amount of taxation. In tlie United Kingdom tlie taxation is ,f0'()2 per head ; in New South Wales, $12 ; in Western Australia, j|j;22 ; in New Zeahmd, |;1G"91 ; in Canada, ^oSl. liut in all these countries there are direct taxes, in addition, and in some of them these are onerous, and greatly swell the total amount of taxation. Newfoundland, therefore, compared with other colonies, must be regarded as a lightly-taxed country. The following figures show the amount of the funded public debt in the years named : — Year Debt. 1887 $3,005,040 1888 3,335,589 1889 4,133,202 1890 4,138,027 1.18 NEWFOUNDLAND : Yeak. Ukht. IHDl 5,22y,;{«;4 18'J2 0,3y:!,3ti7 1H93 8,255,540 181)1 9,113 over expenditure. In point of fact, the effect of the commercial crash of 1(S94 has been to reform abuses wliich had crept into the commercial system, and to place business on a sounder liasis than before. The main cause of that financial disaster had been tlie dangerous and vicious system of banking on which for years the business of the country had been conducted. These banks had furnished undue facilities of obtaining credit — in some cases to an enormous extent — and this led to an infla- tion of trade. Their capital was thus swallowed up. In such a condition of affairs a slight matter would jirecipitate a crisis, which at length arrived. All this is ended. The improved banking methods introduced ])y the Canadian banks has told favourably, and placed monetary affairs on a sounder basis than before ; and while all due facilities are furnished by these banks for a legitimate business, all wild and speculative schemes are steadily discouraged. Another still more important reform has been intro- (hiced. The supplying, or truck system, on which the fisheries have l)een carried on, has received its death- blow. It was the cause of evils innumerable; and though it will not altogether disfippear for some time, it has been greatly curtailed. The " crash " lias been far from an unmixed evil. A country that has so quickly recovered from its effects must have a future before it. 144 NEWFOUNDLAND : CHArXER XI. Scenery of the Island : the Norway of the New World — Hoiilth rcsoi t . the Summers — Attractions for Travellers and Tourists — Novelty of tlie Scenery — The Fishermen — Professors Bi(!kmore and Hyotton the Character of the Scenery and Climate— Captain Kennedy's Testimony — Archbishop of Hnlifax : his Experience — The London Times on Newfoundland— Sport and Angling — ( rrouse-shooting — Deer-stalking. Not many years have elapsed since the discovery was made by the outside world that Newfoundland contains some of the grandest and most beautiful scenery that the traveller can find in any land. Formerly, the idea of associating " the land of fog and cod-fish " with the suldime and beautiful in Nature would liave been scoffed at. All tliat was known about the island was summed up in Burns' lines in his " Twa Dogs" — " Some place far abroad, Where sailors gang to fish for cod." The prevalent idea was that it was mostly shrouded by a curtain of fog, and that the interior was a region of dismal swamps and naked rocks. ( Gradually these mistaken ideas have been dispelled ; and now every year witnesses an increasing number of visitors from the outside world — tourists in search of the picturesque and beautiful, travellers, health-seekers, sportsmen — > < ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 115 who curry back with tlicni glowing reports of the wonderful attractions of this "gem of the Western world." Newfoundland has been well named " the Norway of the New World." In many points it strikingly resembles that country to which tourists flock from all lands. Its deep fiords which indent the shores, everywhere guarded by lofty cliffs, whose forms are reflected in the clear bright waters of the bavs, have a remarkable resemblance to those of Norway, and are frequently not less magnificent in their scenery. Many of these great watery ravines, running inland for eighty or ninety miles, and exhibiting a wonderful variety of scenery along the great arms which they project in all directions, are on a grander scale than the famous Norwegian fiords. The great bays of Trinity ami I'laceutia, which almost cut the island in two, have no parallel in respect of size among the Norwegian fiords. Then, in their short Ijut beautiful summers, their bright skies, their exhilarating atmosphere, their population of fishermen — so abundant in insular peculiarities and primitive characteristics, hidden away in nooks remote from all the outer world, quaint in manners, gracious to strangers — the two countries resemble each other very strikingly. Norway was once as little known as New- foundland, and its natural beauties as little appreciated. Now it is the resort, each summer, of many hundreds of travellers, and, by its fine system of roads, it has been rendered everywhere accessible. Another point of resemblance is that the inhabitants of both countries are noted catchers of cod and herring, and have long 1 16 NEWFOUNDLAND : bueii rivals in the ISpauish ami MediteiTaiicaii iish- markets. Norway has loug had the start of New- foundhiud in regard to its scenic attractions for tourists and travellers; but the turn of the Norway of. the New Worhl has come at length. The artist and the i)hotographer have been at work, and ])ictorial illustrations of its scenery — of which the pages of this volume contain some specimens — are making it widely known, and thus the stream of visitors is swelling. As a .sanitorium — a health resort — Newfouiidland is destined to take a high place, when the accommodations and comforts which travellers or invalids require are provided — as unquestionably they will be — at the most desiral)le ])laces throughout the island. Here the jjcople of the United States and Canada will find a welcome escai)e from the Ijurning heat of their own summers. They will enjoy scenery novel and attractive ; a bracing, exhilarating air that imparts new vigour to the frame, and sends back the smoke-dried citizens with freshened complexions and the tide of health coursing through their veins. In summer the hccat is never oppressive, and the nights are always cool ; so that, after a day's ramble, sleep comes sweet and refreshing. There is something peculiarly balmy, soothing, and yet invigor- ating in the summer breezes, whether on sea or land, cooling the fevered brain, and smoothing the wrinkled brow of care. After a few weeks near the coast, in- haling the sea breezes, and exposed to the life-giving rays of the sun, the invalid who has come with shattered nerves and fluttering pulse will generally return with a new supply of iron in his blood, and a ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 147 sense of well-being which makes it a luxury to live. With the completion of the new railway to I'ort-au- lUisques, the island will be rendered easy of access to travellers, who, embarking at Sydney, Cape Breton, in a luxuriously appointed steamer, will in five hours be landed on the shores of Terra Nova. There a number of summer weeks can be spent climbing the rocky heights of the New-land ; wandering over its plains* bright with wild flowers; plying the angler's rod, or bending the oar in the clear water of its countless lakes ; stalking the lordly caribou, or shooting the ptarmigan (superior to the grouse) over its " barrens " and hills ; or exploring the great fiords which stretch their arms far inland, amid the wildest and grandest scenery. All this to the denizens of the smoky, dust-laden cities is like passing into a new and brighter state of exist- ence, and enjoying for a time a purer and better life. One thing the tourist may safely reckon on is the sensation of novelty. Not only are the aspects of Nature, indeed, the whole character of the scenery, such as are not commonly met with elsewhere, but here the traveller hnds himself among a new race of people — the hardy fisher-folk, quaint in their manners, having their own ways of looking at things; entirely un- affected by the conventionalities and fashions of the outside world; primitive in their modes of living; kindly and friendly. Travellers will find such archaic people abundantly interesting, and worthy of a careful study. They are original, quaint, and in many ways quite unique. Travellers who have visited the country have in 148 . NEWFOUNDLAND : inuncrous iustancus borne lestiinoiiy to its attractions. An 'jniinunt American profeHsor — Albert L. Bickniorc, oi" Nc\>' York — after a short tour in the island, m rote of it : *' In regard to beauty and grandeur of scenery, health- giving climate, and general attractiveness for those whose energies have been lowered by city life, and wh(j seek to recuperate, few countries could surpass New- foundland. ]\Iany hundreds of Americans would every year find their way here were the country only known. In future, if proper steps are taken, Newfoundland may become one of the most popular summer resorts. In addition to the scenery and pure air, you have salmon and trout fishing to an unlimited extent; and in the fall, snipe, curlew, and ptarmigan shooting, as well as deer-stalking. Boating on the lakes ; driving or walking over the breezy hills ; picnicing in such places as Petty Harbour, Middle Cove, or Topsail ; sketching or photographing the rare scenery; ilrinking in the oxygen of an atmosphere which at every l)reath (juickens the pulse and puts colour in the cheek — what more could the heart of man or woman tourist ask for ? " Professor Hyatt, of Boston, one of the most eminent geologists of America, spent three months with a party of scientists on the west coast, engaged in searching for fossils. He wrote of his excursion in the following terms : " Certainly one can rarely see in this world more remarkable and picturesque villages than those of Burgeo, Burin, and Eose Blanche. The effect of the pond-like harbours, surrounded by rugged hills, often of considerable height, is rendered exceedingly pleasing, ■ ENGLAND'S OLDKST COLONY. 140 often lovely by the habit of buiMinf,' the cottaj^es any- where and everywhere, accordinj:^ to the fancy ancy caiilta about 75 cents. All travellers are struck with the mental quickness and general intelligenc»; of the i)eo])Ie ; and now that eilucation is doing its w^ork, it will be found that here is a people who, when duly cultured, will play no unworthy part in the world of the future, and will Ije able to compete with the brain-workers of the coming age in all departments of life. The jieople are a law-abiding, orderly race. Serious crime is rare, anil the j^'oportion of olfenders against tlie law, in proportion to the pojailation, is very small. Tliey are quiet, church-going, warmly attached to their re- ligious faith. They live peaceably among themselves, and outbreaks of bigotry and fanaticism are almost unknown. The following figures show^ the respective strength of the religious denominations according to the census of 181)1 :— Church of England «59,83''' Roiuiin Catholic 72.(J!i'J MetlMxlist 53,270 I'lesbyterian 1,44'J Other Denominations 4,795 o y. •< Q 72 '-J > Q ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 161 There is, of course, no distinction of ranks other than that arising from wealth, education, or official or professional position. The upper-class is composed of the officials of the Government, members of the Legis- lature, judges, clergy, merchants, doctors, lawyers, and wealthy individuals who have retired from business. The middle-class is composed of the newer merchants, importers, commission agents, shopkeepers, tradesmen, farmers, and that large class who by industry and economy have acquired a modest competence. It is among this middle-class that the sentiment of progress has taken deepest root, and that a strong desire for the development of the resources of the island is most keenly felt. The fishermen and the working classes generally welcome the prospect of new industries for the support of themselves and their children, feeling that the fisheries alone are insufficient for their in- creasing numbers. Late years have witnessed a marked improvement in the condition of the fishermen. They are becoming more provident, and far larger numbers of them than formerly can now afford to dispense with supplies on credit at the beginning of the fishing season, and pay in cash for what they require, tlius buying their necessaries at a much cheaper rate. Those who combine farming with fishing are invariably the most independent and comfortable of their class. On the whole, the fishermen of Ne vfcundland, though they have not much of this world's goods, compare not unfavourably, as to their condition, with the labouring classes of other countries. If they have privations and hardships, they have compensations for these in their M 1G2 NEWFOUNDLAND : free, open-air lil'e, llieir robust lieallli, their capaliilities of eiijoyiu.L,' simple pleasures. Tliere is perhaps as genuine happiness among them as amoug any similar number who toil for their daily bread. Their passionate attachment to the land of their birth, their love for it when settled in other countries, and their frequent longings to return, all indicate that their life on the whole has been a happy one. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. io3 CHAPTEK Xlll. InHuuuco of tho New World ou the Old-Great Duel between Eng- land and F/ancc for Supremacy iu North Ameriea-Its Ikariii- on Newfoundland -Treaty of Utrocht-The Begiuning uT Vr !n'~''^''''^ "*" ^^'"«^'*sion8 to the French-Misinteri.retation ot tlie Ireatiea-Their Injury to the Colony-Lobster Diftieulty on the Ircaiy Shore-Delegation to the House of Lords-Best Tohcy for the Colony. In tJic great duel between England and France for supremacy in North America, wliicli extended over a century and a half, the French made many attempts to obtain entire possession of Newfoundhmd. They were fully aware of the strategic importance of an island which commanded the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and thtir possessions in Canada, and which Mould also enable them to control the valuable hsheries. Hence they never ceased in their efforts to obtiun a, footing in the island, and their presence and encroach- luents were a constant source of annoyance to the settlers. In earlier chapters we ha\e pointed out the vast results which followed from the discoveries of the Cabots, and the hold which England thus obtained on the soil of North America. The reflex inHuence of the 164 NEWFOUNDLAND : New World on the Old changed the whole current of European politics, and affected deeply the fortunes of the leading nations of Europe. Fi\'e great nations — England, France, Spain, Portugal, and Holland — struggled for more than a century for a share of these vast territories. More and more England concentrated her efforts to gain possession of North America, and in doing so laid the foundations of that " Greater Britain " l)eyond the seas M'hich from (.^ueen Elizabetli to Queen Victoria has been steadily expanding. Her great ri\'al was France. Very early some of the ablest statesmen of France saw the vast importance of these new lands, and determined to establish a dominion worthy of tlie great name of France. No expense was spared in promoting the growth of Colonies which would give the French a firm hold on these magnificent possessions. Able and wise governors were appointed ; soldiers for defence w^ere furnished ; food was supplied in seasons of scarcity. In this way, year after year, " Greater France " extended itself along the banks of the St. Lawrence. Quebec and Montreal were founded. From the great lakes the French pushed their dis- coveries and explorations down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico, and claimed the enormous territory tlrained by it and its tributaries. But meantime English colonization was extendiug itself rapidly along the shores of New England. These colonists were men of brave hearts and strong arms, and possessed of a free, bold spirit. It is not wonderful that Colonies planted by such men soon attained a robust growth. Very ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 165 soon they discovered that unless the ambitions designs of France were checked they wouhl be hemmed in on north and west, and perhaps driven from their pos- sessions. They began to extend themselves northward in order to secure the valuable Canadian fur trade. This the French would not tolerate ; and so the great duel between the two races began. At a later date they met in the valley of the Ohio, where the French prohibited the English colonists from trading. Eng- land came to the assistance of her Colonies, and war commenced with the view of expelling the French from the American Continent. The French fought with great bravery in defence of their possessions. En Newfoundland they made despe- rate efforts to ol)tritish statesmen a fine opportunity to free this long-suffering Colony for ever from their presence. Instead of doing so, they fastened the French grasp on the island more closely by granting them fishing privi- leges, and ceding to them two islands close to the shore. Look at the disastrous results to British interests 1 The French have placed an interpretation on the language of the treaties which it does not bear, and which both the colonists and the Imperial autliorities repudiate and refuse to admit. The French have all along insisted with the utmost pertinacity that the terms of the treaties secured to them an exchisive right to the use of the fisheries ; so that liritish fishermen could neither lawfully fish witliin these limits, nor occupy the land for any other purpose. THE DUNGEON, llONAVISTA. ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 169 The coast-liiiL' to wliicli these treaties apply extends from Cape Ray, at the south-westeru extremity of the ishind, arouiul the western, northern, and north-eastern shores to Cape St. John — almost half the island, and, in regard to soil, climate, forest, and mineral wealth, by far the best half of the island. The effect of these treaties has been to practically exclude the people from the ftiirest half of their own territory ; to prevent the investment there of capital in industrial enterprises. Had it not been so locked up, it would long since have been colonized, and a farming, fishing, lumbering, and mining population would have been in occupation, with thriving towns and villages along its entire extent. Tlius to the Colony these antiquated treaties, the work of Imperial statesmen, have been most injurious, and have retarded its progress more than all other causes put together. No such wrong has ever been inflicted on any other British Colony. In addition, St. Pierre and Miquelon became smuggling centres, to the great loss of .Newfoundland's revenue. England and her subjects, the colonists, refuse to admit the exclusive claim of the French, and have always maintained that they had a concurrent right, provided they did not "interrupt" the operations of French fishermen. This was Lord Palmerston's view, and also that of the Crown lawyers of England. In 1889 a new and very serious complication arose. Some twelve thousand British subjects are now settled on this treaty shore, some of whom have years ago commenced the new industry of canning lobsters. The 170 NEWFOUNDLAND : Froricli, witnessitiir tluiir succusa, also coinmenced lobster C}inniii«^f; ami not only so, but preferred an exclusive elaiin to the lol)ster fishery, and used active measures for the removal of British lobster factories. This Haj^'riint disre«j^ard of the provisions of the treati(is roused public indignation in the Colony, and a strong agitation commenced, which ended in an appeal to the English people and Parliament. The local Legislature finally sent a delegation, who claimed to be heard at the 15ar of the House of Lords, and this rare privilegt; was granted. It was a memorable historic scene when Sir William Whiteway, as Premier of the Colony, addressed that august assembly, setting forth the long array of his country's grievances. The appeal of the delegates was heard with deep sympathetic interest, and Parliament and the Press of England joined in admitting the justice of the position assumed by the delegation. The end of it was that a modus vivent/l wjis arranged, and has been renewed and prolonged till the close of 1898. The object is to allow of negotiation, and, if possible, secure arbitration regarding the vexed question. It is not wonderful that the colonists keenly feel the injustice of shutting up one-half of this fine island in order that a few French fishing vessels may use it at certain points for drying their fish during three or four months in the year. Dut then existing facts must be looked in the face. France has again and again declared, through the mouth of her foremost statesmen, that she will not ENGLAND'S OLDEST COLONY. 171 accept ii inoney comjuMiMatioii for tliese treaty ri<;lits, or even a territorial exchange. The national sentiment will not permit it. Enj^lish statesmen have spared no ])ains to bring about a settlement, but in vain. What, then, is the wisest policy for Newfoundland to adopt? The colonists, by their temperate presenta- tion of their grievances, have won the sympathy of England and the respect of he. leading statesmen. 1'hey may rest assured, then, that as soon as an opjxir- tunity ])resents itself their wrongs will he righted, lint England cannot accomplish impossibilities. Slie cannot disregard her treaty obligations ; and she has no power to compel France to forego her treaty rights. Surely, then, all right-thinking men will agree that the duty and interest of the Colony lie in co-operation with the Imperial authorities, both in securing a proper mea.surd for the enforcement of the treaties, and also in the settlement of the whole question in the futun^ Tlie present time calls for moderation, self-control, and the exercise of that good sense which will calmly look- facts in the face. Whatever may have been the conduct of the Imperial - Mother towards the oldest of her Colonies in the dark days of the past, she has now for her eldest- born nothing but the kindest intentions and the most sincere goodwill. In this Jubilee Year such friendly feeling has been evinced in the invitation of all the Premiers of the self-governing Colonies to share in the com- memoration of the sixtieth anniversary of Her Majesty's reign. It is a recognition of the Colonies as a part of 172 NEWFOUNDLAND. her ocean-empire. It is a pledge that if any one of them is suffering a wrong, it will be considered and put right. If, then, Newfoundland colonists will, in this complicated trouble connected with French treaty rights, be patient and wise, while firmly holding on to their rights, the day is not distant wlien all present difficulties will admit of an easy solution. APPENDIX I. THE GREAT SEAL-HUNT NEWFOUNDLAND. OF PANNING SEALS. L\ the North Atlantic there are two great rivers ceaselessly flowing — one warm, the other cold. The former is known as the (hdf Stream, the latter as the Arctic Current. They form an important part of Ihat grand movement of circu- lation in the waters of the ocean which is just as essential to the life and well-being of our planet as the circulation of the blood in the main enance of the vitality of the 174 APPENDIX. human body. A constant interchange of the cold polai' and tlie warm equatorial waters is going on, and is all- import int in the economy of the globe. 8trango as it may seem, every drop of water in the ocean passes slowly and gradually from the poles to the equator and back again, and from the greatest depths up to the surface ; and this is absolutely essential to maintain the balance of Nature. There is a gradual creeping flow of the polar waters towards the equator, along the floor of the ocean, caused by the difference in temperature ; and to com- pensate this movement, the lighter and warmer equa- torial waters are constantly floating towards each polar region, thus modifying the heat of the one and the cold of the other. But in addition to this vertical circulation there are the better-known superficial movements of the ocean waters, in horizontal directions, constituting the currents or great rivers of the ocean. These are largely caused by the trade winds in each hemisphej'c, and may be regarded as supplying streams necesrary to complete the vast oceanic circulation. One of these is the Gulf Stream. Hy the pressure of the equatorial stream^, a great " head " of warm water is formed in the Gulf of Mexico, from which it escapes by the narrows of Florida, the momentum carrying it northward along the coast of the United States as far as the Banks of Newfoundland, where it is deflected eastward, and merging itself in the general drift of the ocean, it flows north-easterly, adding itself to the warmed waters carried by this drift-current past the British Isles and Norway into the Arctic Gulf between Spitzbergen and Novaya Zemlya. The counter-current to this warm stream is known as the Arctic current. The great volume of water driven into the Arctic Gulf, as described, escapes mainly by the ice-bearing current of East Greenland, which sweeps THE GREAT SEAL-HUNT. 175 round Capo Farewell, Hows north as far as Cape York, and, being here deflected westward, it mingles with anothei escape current coming from the Arctic regions through Jiattin's Bay and Davis's Strait. It now Hows south, and, receiving a fresh accession from Hudson's Strait, moves along the shores of Labrador and Newfoundland till it encounters the warm waters of the Gulf Stream going eastward. Here it is divided into two parts, one wedging itself between the Gulf Stream and the American coast, the other shooting under the warm waters of this second river in the ocean. The circulation is now com- })lete. From Labrador southward it is usually called the iiabrador current ; and the area which it occupies on the coasts of North America is the great feeding and breeding ground of the commercial deep-sea tishcs, and of vaiious air-breathing animals. Thus, then, the cold river in the ocean, which bears on its bosom huge ice- argosies and chills the atmosphere of these northern lands, is the source of the vast fish wealth which has been drawn on for ages. Wanting this cold current, the cod, seals, herrings, mackerel, halibut, hake, etc., which now crowd the northern seas would be entirely absent. So far from being unfavourable to the production of animal life, the Arctic seas and the great rivers which they send forth are swarming with life, from the minute diatom and crustacean to the oleaginous seal, the ponderous walrus, and the unwieldy whale. Among the various forms of marine life to be found in these ice-laden waters, not the least remarkable and com- mercially valuable is the seal. In the cold waters of the Arctic current it has its hahitat, and the great ice-fields are essential to its existence. With its coat of fur, padded by thick layers of fat, it is exactly adapted to its sur- roundings. Amid the floes foroied from the thickest Arctic ice it has thriven and multiplied in incredible 176 APPENDIX. numbers. On these floes of the Labrador cnrrcnt its youn«>f are brought forth, cradled, and suckled. It is in their babyhood that the j'oung of these great seal-herds are brought within reach of the hardy seal-hunters of Newfoundland, who brave all the perils of the ice-wilder- nesses in pursuit of their prey. These daring men force their way through the crystal ramparts by which Nature lias guarded the helpless innocents, and slay them by I'lTTlNf; SEALS ON BOARD. thousands in their icy cradles. The great annual seal- hunt from the ports of Newfoundland involves a vast destruction of seal-life, young and old, and constitutes one of the most remarkable industries of the world. Its importance to Newfoundland may be estimated from the fact that the value of its annual products ranges from half a million to a million of dollars, and that some six thousand men, twenty-two large steamers, and a number of sailing vessels take part in the seal-hunt. To this must be added a considerable number of men, who are THE GREAT SEAL-HUNT. I< t employed in the manufacture of the oil and its prepa- ration for market. All this industry is dependent on the play of those great forces of Nature by which the circu- lation of the waters of the ocean is maintained. It should be noted that the seals captured hero are not fur seals of Alaska, whose soft coat makes glad the heart of the city belle, but the oil seals. Their skins are used for the manufacture of a coarse-grained but expensivre g '/''k''|^^i^^^HHHU^| ■•■- •.3 1; * * *■-.■ .- IPW^''** ¥- ■■ ^ SCALriNG THE SEALS. leather employed in the making of trunks, boots, purses, etc., and also in costly book-binding. The oil is used for illumination, for lubricating machinery, and for making the finest soaps, and like uses, There are four species of seals in the waters around Newfoundland and Ltibrador — the bay seal, the harp, the hood, and the square flipper. The bay seal is local in its habits, does not migrate like the others, but frequents N 178 APPENDIX. the mouths of rivers and the harbours round the coast, and is never found on the ice. It is mostly taken in nets, but commercially is of small importance. The harp seal — ipar excellence the seal of commerce — is so called from having a broad curved line of connected dark spots pro- ceeding from each shoulder and meeting on the back above the tail, and forming a figure something like an ancient harp. The hood is much larger than the harp. The male, called by the hunters *' the dog-hood," is distinguished from the female by a singular hood or bag of flesh on his nose. When attacked or enraged, he inflates this hood so as to cover the face and eyes, and it is strong enough to resist seal shot. When thus pro- tected, he can only be killed by shooting him in the neck and the base of the skull. The dog-hood fights desperately in defence of his mate and young ones, and if they are killed he becomes furious, inflates his hood, while his nostrils dilate into two huge bladders. His appearance is now terrific, and with uncouth floundering leaps he rushes on his foe. Instances have occurred where a fight between an old dog-hood and five or six men has lasted for an hour; and sometimes a hunter is fearfully torn, and even killed, in the encounter. The square flipper seal is the fourth kind, and is believed to be identical with the Greenland seal, and is from twelve to sixteen feet in length. It is only occasionally met with in these seas. Another circumstance by which the seal industry of Newfoundland is determined is the migratory movements of the seals. These are as regular as the flow of the Arctic current. About the middle of February their young are born on the ice-fields off the north-east coast of Newfoundland. The young are suckled by their mothers for six weeks, and about the Ist of April they take to the water. Early 'n May they commence their THE GREAT SEAL-HUNT. 179 northerly movement in company with their yonng, shaping their course for the Greenland seas, where they spend three months. As the early Arctic winter sets in with September, they begin their southern migration, keeping ahead of the ice as it forms, and moving towards the coast of Labrador, and feeding in its fiords and bays as they move. Small detachments seem to lead the way, like pioneers. Behind them moves the great army in one continuous mass. It occupies days in passing certain points, and appears to fill the sea as far as the eye can reach. This great army on its march may well impress the beholder with the idea of the vast number of seals, on whose ranks the hunters make their annual onslaughts. Having reached the Straits of Belle Isle, separating New- foundland from Labrador, one division enters the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the other moving along the eastern shores of the island, feeding in its bays and inlets, but both divisions steadily going south. Towards the close of the year they have reached the Banks, these being their southern head-quarters, as the Greenland seas are their northern. The Banks are ever swarming with fish, and on these the seals feast till the beginning of February ; then they commence their northern migration to meet the Arctic ice, on which their young are to be brought forth and cradled. By the 10th or 15th of February they have reached the ice-fields, descending on the Arctic current, and these great floes are the birthplace of their young. Their annual round is now completed. The great aim of the hunters is to get among the "white-coats," as the young harp seals are called, in their babyhood, when yet fed by their mother's milk, and while they are powerless to escape. The oil, too, extracted from the blubber of the young seals is of a much finer quality than that obtained from the full- grown seals. The milk on which they are sustained is 180 APPENDIX. of a thick creamy consistency, yellowish in colour, nnd very rich and nutritious. This is proved by the extra- ordinary rapidity of their growth. When born they weigh some six or seven pounds, and in three weeks they have increased to forty or fifty pounds. Tlie baby seal h born with an oily coating of blubber just beneath WHITE- COAT SEAL. the skin, which in ten or twelve days thickens from half an inch to three and even four inches. Formerly the seal-hunt was earned on in stout schooners, but these have been, in late years, almost entirely superseded by steamers strongly built, sheathed with iron-wood, and having their stems plated with iron, so as to cleave their way through the ice-fields. Each carries from two hundred to three hundred men, and THE GllEAT SEAL-HUNT. 181 these are the elite of their class. It would be difficult to tind a finer body of stalwart men than the ice-hunters of Newfoundland. Their powers of endurance arc marvellous ; and their daring courat^e in battling with the floes and following their prey amid the crashing bergs and ice-masses, from which other men would shrink in terror, shows that they are quite at home in these grim solitudes. The perils and hardships they have to encounter, the skill and courage required in fighting the ice-giants, and the possible rich prizes to be won, lift this adventure above the ordinary level, and throw around it a romantic interest. Not the seal-hunters alone, but the whole population, from the richest to the poorest, take a deep interest in the fortunes of the hunt. It is like an army going out to do battle for those who remain at home. A steamer will sometimes go out and return in two or three weeks, bringing home as many as thirty to forty thousand seals, each worth two dollars and a half. The successful hunters are welcomed with ringing cheers, like returning conquerors, and are the heroes of the hour. What tales they have to tell of perils in the icy wildernesses, of narrow escapes from being crushed, of cold plunges into the treacherous ice-chasm, of fierce combats with the "dog-hoods"! No wonder the young Newfoundlander pants for the day when he will get " a berth to the ice," and share in the wild joys and excite- ments of the hunt. Nothing, however, could be more uncertain than the fortunes of the seal-hunt. These vast ice-fields are often from one hundred to two hundred miles in breadth, and of unknown length. The locale of the seals depends on the winds and waves. The most skilful sealing captains fail at times to strike the " seal-patches," and not infre- quently return to port "clean," or with only a few hundred seals. There are great successes, such as that of the 182 APPENDIX. 8.8. Neptuni', Captaiu JJlandford, in 1804. After an absence of oif^htccn days, she returned to port with every nook nnd cranny crammed with pelts, and even her decks piled with the oleaginous treasures, till her gunwale was only two feet above the water. She brought in 42,000 seals, i •,.. ■<.•■ „v'.;:-; ^ .■' 1 u i i " T^^wB • -'^^§ txI^SB /^ vS :^^± l«. ■ -a ^tjjj!.. '^^H '"''^H ^' B^sm^' v^ mm •■ :>• ,. >>J ^"'*.;^^>-^«^^ v.^!^ ";^^:^^te^j5 8.S. "neptunk" in the ice. value about $105,000. For one brilliant success like this there are, however, many costly failures ; for the position of the icy cradles in which the young " white-coats " lie is utterly uncertain, and though in searching for them skill and experience count for much, yet "the race is not THE GREAT SEAL- HUNT, 183 to the swift nor the battle to the stronjj," but in this case "time and chance happen to them all." Let us suppose, however, that all dlrticullies have been surmounted, and that the steamer lias at length got sight of the seal-patch. The whimpering of the young seals is heard, gladdening the hearts of the hunters. Their cry has a remarkable resemblance to the sobbing or whining of an infant in pain. No sooner is this sound heard than the vessel is laid-to, the men eagerly bound oil the ice, and the work of destructicm begins. A blow on the nose from a gaff, heavily shod with iron at one end, fractures the thin skull of the young seal, and in the vnst majority of cases it feels pain no more. Death is instantaneous. In a moment the knife is at work. The skin with the adhering fat are detached rapidly from the carcass, which is left on the ice, still quivering with life, though there is no sensation, the movements of the muscles being merely mechanical, and caused by contact with the icy surface. In fact, death comes to the young " white-coats " far quicker and with less pain than to animals slaughtered by the butchers. The pelts, as the skins and adhering fat are called, are then bound up in bundles, and dragged over the hummocky ice to the side of the steamer. The work of slaughter now goes on without cessation. The hunters scatter over the ice in all directions in search of their prey, and often wander miles from the ship. The ice is soon stained with gore and dotted with the skinless carcasses of the slain. The decks become slippery with mingled blood and fat. Blood-gouts cover the hands and arms of the men. " The shivering seal's low moans " fill the air. What a scene amid these icy solitudes of the ocean, with the bright sun in the heavens lighting up the glittering pinnacles ! The poor mother-seals, now cubless, are seen popping their heads up in the small 184 APPENDIX. holes ainoiig tho ico, looking for their snow-white darlings, and refusing to believe that the bloody carcasses on tho ice are all that remain of ti.eir tender offspring. With a moan of distress they plunge into the sea, as if anxious to escape from the ensanguined trail of the hunters. Their maternal instinct is peculiarly strong, and the tenderness with which the mothers watch over their i . r jP^ ^^^^^■I^H^HhU^BSi!^ '*&' ' '^i*!** 'tM-4iilK^^^^k tt&kmJA&s s^^Bfl^^H •y^-:*--^^SB^ HAULING THE PELTS. off.spring is most touching. When the young seals are cradled on the ice, the mothers go off each morning to fish, returning at intervals to give them suck. It is an extraordinary fact that the old seals manage to keep open holes in the ice, and to prevent them freezing over, in order that they may reach the water. On returning from a fishing excursion, extending over fifty or a hundred miles, each mother-seal is able to find the hole by which THE GREAT SEAL-HUNT. 185 she took her departure, and to diHcovcr her own snow- whito cub, which she proceeds to fondle and suckle, though there may bo thousands all around. It is also by the mothers that the young ones are taught to swim. They are seen at times tumbling their babies into the water and giving them swimming les-ons. When they are in danger from *' rafting ice," or fragments of floes dashed about by the wind, and likely to crush them, the self-sacrificing affection of the mothers leads them to bravo all danger.*} in order to help their young to places of safety in the unbroken ice, sometimes clasping them in their fore-flippers and swimming with them or pushing them forward with their noses. At the end of six weeks the young shed their white woolly robe, which has a yellowish or golden lustre, and then a smooth spotted skin appears, having a rough darkish fur. They now cease to be "white-coats," and become "ragged- jackets." The perils of the ice-fields are neither few nor small, and the hardships and exposures such as only men of iron could endure. These men are so accustomed to the floes and the sea that they seem to have an absolute contempt for their terrors. They leap from pan to pan, where it would seem a child could hardly be sustained, and think little of passing a night on the ice far from the steamer, going e^'en four or five miles off in their eagerness to slay. Should a fog or a snoAV-storm set in, there is a terrible risk of losing their way and perishing miserably in these ice-deserts, or of falling through the openings which are covered with the snow as it falls and freezes. Sometimes the fiield-ice on which they are at work separates without a moment's warning into fragments, and they are floated off, to perish by cold and hunger, unless rescued by a passing vessel. On the whole, however, such are their skill and fortitude, and 186 APPENDIX. their knowledge of the movements of the ice, that com- paratively few mishaps occur. The greatest danger of all is when a violent storm rages, breaking up the ice-fields and driving before it the larger floes intermingled with floating fragments of ice hard as granite. Woe to the unfortunate vessel that is exposed to the blows of these ice-giants. When the wild north-easter rises, the great swell of the Atlantic rolling in continuous ridges heaves the pavement of ice on its mighty folds. Speedily, by the upheaving of the waves, the ice-field is broken up into smaller pieces or floes. The whole mass opens and expands, and then the broken fragments are dashed against one another or piled on each other in hummocks, or hills of ice. At times the fragments are lifted high on the swell and flung upon the floe, being piled over each other in layers fifty feet in height. This is called the '* rafting " of the ice. The thundering crashes of the ice-giants as they grapple and dash one another to death, combined Avith the roaring overhead of the blinding snow-storm, make up a scene of awe and terror. Then at times a huge iceberg takos part in the fray, sailing solemnly forward, rending and tearing the ice-field, and scattering its frag- ments far and wide. Such are some of the scenes amid which the seal-hunters have to gather in " the precious things of the deep." Considering all the perils, it is surprising that fatal disasters are not more frequent, and that so many vessels, year after year, come home unharmed. During the seal-hunt of 1872 one hundred men perished — fifty of them having gone down in a single sailing vessel, called the Huntsman. In the same year two steamers, the Bloodhound and Retriever^ were crushed in the ice and sank ; but their crews escaped over the ice, after enduring great hardships. In 189G two steamers, the Windsor Lake and the Wolf, were crushed in the '"ce THE GREAT SEAL-HUNT. 187 in such a storm as has been described, but no life was lost. Three more of the fleet were *' nipped " and con- siderably injured. These violent storms, happily, are not frequent. For the most part the sea is at rest, and then the ice-flelds present a strange beauty of their own, which has a wonderful fascination. The moon, the stars, and the flickering aurora bring out in perfection all their wild THREE CANADIAN KANKEBS ON THE ICE OP ST. JOHN S, CONTEMPLATING A YOUNG SEAL FROM A FINANCIAL STANDPOINT. loveliness. In the calm which follows a storm the seal- hunters often find themselves sailing gently through quiet waters, amid islets of glittering ice, with shining pinnacles and fantastic forms floating for miles around — a scene of weird and fascinating beauty. When the vessel reaches port with her fat cargo, the skinners go to work and separate the skins and the fat. The former are salted and stored for export. By means of steam-driven machinery, the fat is cut up by revolving 188 APPENDIX knives into minute pieces, then ground finer by a sc t of gigantic sausage-machine, afterwards steamed to extract the oil, and then exposed for a time in glass-covered tanks to the action of the sun's rays, and finally barrelled for exportation. The annual catch of seals is from 200,000 to 400,000. To Newfoundland this industry is of immense im- FULL-GROWN IIAKP SEAL. portancc, and, with wise regulative measures, there is no reason why the fishing should not be indefinitely prolonged. At a time when other northern countries are locked in icy fetters and their inhabitants largely in a state of enforced idleness, here is an industry that can be plied by the fishermen of Newfoundland, and by which in a couple of months from half a million to a million of dollars may be won. •' 189 ) V APPENDIX II. NOTES ON CHAPTER TT. — SEBASTIAN CAIJOT. In these days when detraction is busy regarding the character and work of Sebastian Cabot, it is worth while to turn to the estimate formed of him by some of the most eminent historical authorities. Bancroft, the dis- tinguished American historian, says : " A new patent was issued to John Cabot (1498), less ample in the privileges it conferred ; and his son Sebastian, a native of Bristol, a youthful adventurer of great benevolence and courtesy, daring in conception and patient in execution, a man whose active mind for more than half a century was employed in guiding the commercial enterprise which the nations of the West were developing, and whose extra- ordinary merits have been recently vindicated with ingenious and successful diligence, pursued the paths of discovery which he and his father had opened." " The career of Sebastian Cabot was in the issue as honourable as its opening had been glorious. He conciliated universal regard by the placid mildness of his character. Without the stern enthusiasm of Columbus, he was distinguished by serene contentment. For nearly sixty years, during a period when marine adventure engaged the most intense public curiosity, he was reverenced for his achievements and his skill. He had attended the congress which assembled at Badajos to divide the islands of the Moluccas between Portugal and Spain; he subsequently sailed to South America under the auspices of Charles V., though not with entire success. On his return to his native land, he advanced the commerce of England by opposing a mer- cantile monopoly, and was pensioned and rewarded for his merits as the ' Great Seaman.' It was he who framed 190 APPENDIX. the instructions for the expedition which discovered the passage to Archangel. He lived to an extreme old age ; and so loved his profession that in the hour of death his wandering thoughts were upon the ocean. The discoverer of the territory of our country was one of the most extra- ordinary men of his age. There is deep cause for regret that time has spared so few memorials of his career. Himself incapable of jealousy, he did not escape detraction. He gave England a continent, and no one knows his burial-place." J. E. Green, in his " History of the English People," says : " Two years before the great navigator (Columbus) reached the actual mainland of America, a Venetian mer- chant, John Cabot, who dwelt at Bristol, had landed a crew among the icy solitudes of Labrador. A year later, his son Sebastian, sailing from the same English port to the same point on the American coast, pushed south as far as Maryland and north as hig^a as Hudson's Bay. For a long time, however, no one followed in the track of these bold adventurers." In " Campbell's Lives of the Admirals," art. Sebastian Cabot, we find the following passage : " If this worthy man had performed nothing more, his name ought surely to have been transmitted to future times with honour, since it clearly appears that Newfoundland had been a source of riches and naval power to this nation from the time it was discovered, as well as the first of our plantations ; so that with strict justice, it may be said of Sebastian Cabot that he was the author of our maritime strerigth, and opened the way to those improvements which have rendered us so great, so eminent, so flourishing a people." John Barrow, in his " Chronological History of Voyages in the Arctic Regions," wrote : " Sebastian Cabot, by his knowledge and experience, his zeal and penetration, not SEBASTIAN CABOT. 191 only was the means of extending the foreign commerce of England, but of keeping alive that spirit of enterprise which, even in his lifetime, was crowned with success, and which ultimately led to the most happy results for the nation." Francesco Tarducci, the foremost of living Italian historians, in 1892 wrote an exhaustive memoir of the Cabots, which, in 1893, was translated into English and published. He has carefully gone over all the docu- ments connected with the lives of both, with much critical skill ; and he has triumphantly vindicated Sebastian from the only serious charge ever made against him. This author, in closing his memoir, wrote: "We know nothing of when or where he died, nor even the spot where he was buried. England, wholly occupied in coursing the seas over which he had directed her, had no time to remember or mark the sepulchre of the man to whose powerful initiative she owes the wealth and power which have placed her among the foremost nations of the world. What is still worse, her historical literature, so rich in quantity and quality, has not a book in which his life and work are investigated and studied profoundly, and at as great a length as possible, although her writers have at times proclaimed his greatness and protested the gratitude due to him from the English nation." Henry F. Brownson, the translator of Tarducci 's work, says in his preface : " Cabot had been for years looking for land to the West, led by a course of reasoning similar to that which influenced Columbus, and had Columbus never lived, would have been Columbus. Columbus and Cabot looked for a land of gold and spices. Columbus found the lands rich in precious metals, and the result there has been four centuries of cruelty, slavery, and oppression, of despotism and anarchy. Cabot found a land whose only wealth was the cod-fish that swarmed on 192 APPENDIX. its coasts ; but that land became the cradle of liberty and justice, of resistance to tyranny and oppression, the refuge of the enslaved and down-trodden of every clime. The world — humanity is better, nobler, happier for the discovery made by Cabot. Has any real benefit to man- kind resulted from the lands south of us ? "... . " It is further claimed for Sebastian Cabot that to him is due the commercial greatness of England; and, if so, of course also of the United States. ^Moreover, he was the first to propose and to attempt to solve the great problem of the North-West Passage — a problem which may yet remain unsolved till the next century; but to which we owe some of the most sublime examples of heroism and endurance the human race can boast of. Columbus stands on a solid pedestal as the greatest of the world's discoverers ; but Traducci claims for the Cabots a rank above all others except Columbus himself ; and it is most conformable to the fitness of things that the same author should have written the life of all three." "After the great Genoese, no one," says Traducci himself, "has such an equal claim to be remembered and celtbrated at these centenary festivals as John and Sebastian Cabot." ( 193 ) APPENDIX III. CAROT COMMEMORATION. Ti[E author of this volume claims the honour of havino- been the first to call attention to the fourth centenary of Cabot's discovery of North America, and to urge it's celebration. In a paper on ''The Voyages and Dis- coveries of the Cabots," read before the Historical Society of Nova Scotia in 1893, he pointed out the immense service rendered to England by these great navigators, while not the smallest tribute had ever been paid to their memories; and urged that the fourth centenary of their discoveries— in 1897— presented a favourable opportunity of retrieving the injustice of the past and honouring their memories. Subsequently he addressed a letter to the Royal Society of Canada, of which he has the honour to be a Fellow, on the same subject. The Society at once took up the matter, and appointed a committee to make arrangements for a Cabot celebration. In many other places the proposal was received with warm approval. At a later date it was well received in England. The original proposer has thus the satisfaction of seeing his idea, which of course may have occurred to other minds, likely to be carried into practical effect. As far as he is aware he is the first to put it before the public in tangible shape. 194 APPENDIX. APPENDIX IV. THE MISSION TO DEEP-SEA FISHERMEN. This noblo institution, a few years ago, extended its opera- tions to Labrador. F. J. S. Hopwood, Esq., C.B., C.M.G., now Assistant Secretary to the Board of Trade, paid a visit to Newfoundland some six or seven years ago. He wag a member of the Committee of the Mission to Deep-Sea Fishermen ; and his report to them of the condition of the fishermen on Labrador, and the hard- ships and neglect they had to bear, induced them to send out Dr. Grenfell, who has since conducted the Labrador branch with the greatest energy and efficienc}". He has built two well-equipped hospitals on that dreary coast, and procured the services of a trained nurse for the management of each. These have been the means of doing an immense good among the poor fishermen, mitigating sufPerings, and saving many lives. Dr. Gren- fell spends each summer in visiting the scattered settle- ments along that coast in his yacht, attending to all cases of sickness and others requiring surgical aid, and distributing clothing and food when needed among the more necessitous. Ho is regarded as an angel of mercy by these poor people, among whom are many women and childrenj exposed to cold and terrible hardships, and previously without any proper medical aid. It would be difficult to find anywhere a Mission so admir- ably conducted, or accomplishing so much in mitigating human woes. It is not wonderful to find that Her Majesty the Queen takes a deep interest in this Mission — especially the Labrador branch — and has lately given it the right to use the title " Royal," by which henceforth it will be known. INDEX AgricuUurul pruducta of New- land, 75 Agriculture in Newfoundland, 101- 107 Aldery Brook, 90 America, found by the nierehauts of Bristowe, 1497, 15, IG ; Spain, etc., 8, 48. See also North America. Amerigo Vespucci, 4 Amherst, Col., 107 Amsterdam, foundations of, 41, 112 Arctic current, the, 113-115, 173- 170 Arctic exploration, Sebastian Cabot, the pioneer of, 30 Asbestos, 75, 88, 1)7, 98 Atlantic cable, the, 75 Ayala, Tcdro dc, Spanish envoy, and John Cabot, 21, 25 B Baocalaos (New Fish Lands), Sebastian Cabot and, 30 Bacon, Lord, and the Newfound- land fisheries, 57, 58 Badajos, conference at, attended by Sebastian Cabot, 31 Baltimore, Lord, 59, GO Bancroft, the historian, on Sir H. Gilbert, 49, 51 ; on John Cabot, 189 Banks, in Newfoundland, 135; failure of two, in 1891, 141-143 " Barrens," 104, 150 Barrow, John, on Selmstian Ca])ot, 190, 191 Basque Provinces, fishermen of the, off Newfoundland, 43, 44 Bay of Islands, 87, 93, 100, 149 ; herring fisheries at, 88, 121 ; marble beds at, 112 Bays round the Newfoundland coast, 157 Bny seal, the, 177, 178 Beauclerk, Lord Vere, 70 Beaiidoin, Abbe J. D., on Cabot's landfall, 32, 33 Belle Isle, iron ore iu, 94-90 Bennett, Mr. Chas. F., 91 n. Berry, Sir John, 00 Bett's Cove, cojjper mine at, 90 Beurinot, Dr., on Cabot's landfall, 32,33 Bickmore, Trof. A. li., on Ihe scenery of Newfoundland, 148 Biddle and Sebastian Cabtjt, 20 Blandford, Captain, of the Neptune, 119,182 Bloodhound, s.s., loss of, 180 Board of Works, 130 Bonavista, 109 Bonavista, Capo, said to be Cabot's landfall. 22 Bund, Hon. Robert, 142 Bonne Bay, 93, 149 Bradley, Tliomas, 9 Brevoort, on Cabot's lauflfall, 33 Bristol, John Cabot sails from, in 190 INDEX. tlio MaUhiHV, 1-7; liiw return to, ir>; nioniiincnt to Cabot III, l(i Hiitish Aiiierii'iiu iislicrios, vuliio of, 113 JJritiHli iimritiiiu! ciitcrpriHO, John Ciibot tlio foundor (tf, 8, !) Uritiwli IMuHiMim, I'rivy I'lir.so iiccoiintH lit, J 7 IJrittuny, fishcrmon of, off NeW' fuundlanil, 42, 44 JJrownson, Ilciiry F., on the Cabots, J 01, 1!)2 IJroylc, Cape, p:old-bcariug quartz rocf at, 10(», 101 J J urges, village, 148 IJurin, village, 148 C Cabot, John, nails from liristol in tlie MiiUheWy and dibcovcrs New- foundland, 1-7, 11-17,18-20,32, 40 ; Sir C. K. Markhuni on, 8, 9 , numument to, 10, 10, Jil ; ancient writers on his discovery, 19-21; landfall of, 22-25. 82, 33 ; Henry Vir. and, 1(1, 17, 25; his second voyage, 20, 27 ; liis son Sebastiiin, 27-29 ; Bancroft, Ihc historian, and, 189; J, R. (;rccn on, 190; fourth centenary celebration, 193 Cabot, Sebastian, memoir of, by Mr. J. F. Nicholls, 9, 10; monu- ment to, 10, IG, 31 ; Huklnyt on his papers, 21 ; map of 1544, 25 ; early historians on, 20-29 ; enters the service of Spain, 30, 31 ; pensioned by Edward VI., 31 ; his death in London, 1557, 31 ; Bancroft and other writers on, 189-192; fourth centenary cele- bration, 193 Cabot Strait, 86 Calvert, Sir George (Lord Balti- more), 5!>, 60 Campbell's "Lives of the Ad- mirals," article on S. Cabot, 190 Canadian iSaidvsin Newfoundland, 142, 143 Cana(lian iishcries, valuo of, 113 Canadian dloveriiment, lighlhousos maintained by the, 134 Canadian Petroleum Co., 103 Capo Bnnaviata, said to be Cabot's landfall, 22 Cape Breton (Cabot Strait), 80, 147, 149 C^ape North, 25, 149 Cajjo Breton Island, .said to bo (Jabot's landfall, 22-25, 32, 33; the French and, 42, 43 Carbonear, 131, 105 Caribou, the (deer), 155 Carter, John, 9 Catholics in Newfoundland, 127, 128 Cattle, value of, in 1895, 10(j " Cavo Descubierto " (Cape Breton Ishind), 25 Centenary, the, 135 Charles I., Act issued by Star Chamber of, GO, V,7 Chesapeake Bay, 57 Chidley, Cape, said to be Cabot's landfall, 32 Chromic iron at rort-au-Port, 90, 97 Climate of Newfoundland, 108-111, 150 Coal-fields near Grand Luke, 88, 99 ; in St. George's Bay, 88, 98, 99 Coast-line of Newfoundland, 157 Cochrane, Sir Thomas, 77 Cod fisheries of Newfoundland, the, 42-48, 115-117 Codroy Valley, 87; gypsum in the, 102 Colleges, 159, IGO Colonies, England and her, 35-40 ; in the reign of Queen Victoria, 54, 55 Columbus, Christoi)her, and the discovery of America, 2-5, 11, 13, 15, 191 ; his reception on returning from, 17-19; landfall of, 21; historians and, 28; the fourth centenary celebration, 34 INDKX. 11)7 C(»lville, Lord, l(i7 Cdinmerciul Uaiik, failure of, in iSiJl, 141 Commiirciiil crisis (if 1891, 141-143 Conception IJay, iron ore in, 91- 90 Constiiljnlary, the, 130-133 Copper mines, 7"), 79 ; at Tilt Cove, 89-93; at Bett'a Cove, 90, 91 "Council of Higher Education," 1(!0 Cow Head, petroleum found near, 103 Crabb's lUver, 98 Crisis of 1894, the, 141-143 Crops of 1895, lOG Crown lands, 107 Daily Neirs (Newfoundland), 13,") Dawson, Dr. S. E., on John Cabot, 24, 25, 33 Dawson, Sir William, 92 Deane, Dr. Charles, on Cabot's landfall, 32, 33 Deer, 155 Department of Fisheries, 116, 120- 123 Devonshire, and the cod fishery oif Newfoundland, 61-69 "Dog-hood" (seal), the, 178, 181 Doun, Sir Daniel, 58 Dufterin, Lord, 38 Dutch monopoly of herring fish- eries, 41 E Education, 159,160 Edward YI. pensions Sabastian Cabot, 31 Elementary echools, 159 Elford, aiayor of St. John's, 66 Elizabeth, (^ueen, laws relating to fishing, 42 ; " the spacious times of," 49; and Sir H. Gilbert, 51, 54 ; and Sir Walter Raleigh, 56 Eniignition, 82 England, Newfoundland the firsl colony f»f, 7 ; the colonies of, 35- 40; and the leelandie fisheries. 44; and the Newfoundland fisheries, 45-48 ; first attempt to colonize Newfoundland, 49-54 ; makes treaties with Fr.ince, 74 ; fctruggle with France in North America, 163-171 Enterprise, the, 135 Evening Herald, 135 Evening Telegram, 135 Executive Council, the, 125 Exploits Bay, 93 ; volley of, 84, 87 Farming in Newfoundland, 105- 107 Ferdinand, King, 25; and Colum- bus, 17, 19 ; and Sebastian Cabot, 30, 31 Ferryland, Sir G. Calvert's mansion at, 5!>, 60 Finances of the Colony, 136-143 Fire Department of St. Jolm'ti, 130- 133 Fisheries of Newfoundland, VL, VIL; the French and, 42-45; England and, 45-48, 67-61; "merchant adventurers" and the, 62-69 ; the staple industrv of the people, 112-117 Fishermen in Newfoundland, 161, 162 " Fishing Admirals," government by, 67-70, 73 Fishing era, the, 41, 42 Fiske, on La Cosa's map, 24 Fogs off Newfoundland, 109, 110, 150 Forests in Newfoundland, 108 Fortune Bav, 48 ; herring fishery at, 121 Fossils at Port-au-Port, 149 Pox, Captain, and Columbus's land- fall. 21 o .3 19b INDEX. Friuice, poitulaiion of, ;{7; iiud tlio lisliinj? grounds iiuar Newfound- land, 42-4."), 48 ; iishing vessels of, in 1517, 43; attacks on New- foundland, 51), (>(); treaties with England, 74; and the Bank fishery, 116: struggle with Eng- land iu North America, 8, IG'ii- 171 Eraser, 3rr. J. D., VXi (; Galvano on .John Cabot's voyages, 20 "(jamewell" fne-alarm telegrni»h system, 13;} Gander Valley, 88 (Tcological survey by ^Ir. A. IVIur- ruy, 71), 101, 1(»5 Germany, poi)ulation of, 37 Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, and New- foundland, 49-54, 5G Gold-bearing quartz reef at Cape Broyle, 100, Idl Gomara on Sir John Cabot's voy- ages, 26, 27 Government in Newfoundland, 124- 130; by "Fishing Admirals," 67-70, 73 Governor, the, of Newfoundland, 125, 126; the first, nee Osborne, Cajitain Grand Lake, coal-tield muxr, 88, !H» Granite in Newfoundland, 102 Great Banks, cod fisheries on the, 115, 116, 123; seals on the, 170 (ireeu, J. R., the historian, on Sir Humi)hrey Gilbert, 49; on John Cabot, 11)0 Greenland seal, the, 178 Grenfell, Dr., 194 Gulf Stream, the, 113, 173-176 Guy, John, and the Newfoundland fisheries, 57, 58 Gypsum, in Bay St. George, 102 H Hakluyt, records of, 14, 21 Halifax, archbishop of, on New- foundland, 151, 152 Halifax Asbestos Company, 97 Harlx)ur (Jrace, railway to, 83, S4 ; district court in, 130; constalju- lary at, 131 Harbour Grace Standard, 135 Harbours of Newfoundland, 88 Harp seal, the, 177, 178, 188 Hnrrisse (historian) on Sebiistian Cabot, 27, 29, 31 ; and Cabot's landfall, 32 Harvey, Mr. A. W., 81 Henry VII. and John Cabot, 16, 17, 20, 25, 29 Henry Vllf., letter of John Uut to, 44 Herring fishery, the, 12(», 121 ; at Bay of Islands, 8S Hind, Professor, 114 Holland, herring trade of, 41 Homestead Law, 107, 108 Hood seal, the, 177. 178 Hopwood, Mr. F. J. S., 194 Hore, Robert, attcmi)ts to form a colony in Newfoundland, l.")36, 44 House of Assembly, the, 125-127 Howe, Commander Curzon, 13i Howley, Mr. J. P., 90, 98, 99 Hudson's Strait, reached by Sebas- tian Cabot, 30 Humber River, 99; valley of, 84, 87 Humboldt, and Columbus's land- fall, 21 Huntsman, sailing vessel, loss of, 186 Hyatt, Professor, on Newfoundland, 148, 149 Ice-fields, the perils of the, 185-187 Ice-hunters of Newfoundland, 181 Icelandic fisheries, England and, 44 INDEX. 199 Tiniiorial Feilorutioii, 36 In^oniachoiH Dny, fossils iit, 14'.) Iron mine, ni'ar St. John's, T.'J, DO, !t3, 94 ; near Gnind I.ake, 88 Iron ore in Newfoundlnntl, 114-97 Irviiij,', and Coluiubus'a landfall, 21 Isabella, Queen, iind Columbus, 17 iHlniid Cove, 90 Itiily, growing population of, 38 .Tanits I., .■)7; and Captain Whit- liourno's book on Newfoundland, .loiiiison, Matllu'}' & Co., 100 .liidiiaturo, 130 Jukes, Professor J. B., 9.S K Kejincdy, Captain, "Sporting Notes on Newfoundland," 150, 151 Kirkf^, Sir David, <10 Labrador, said to be Cabot's land- fall, 2l', 23; coasted by Cabot, 20-30 ; population of, 157 ; seals oft' till' ; railways constructed in, 79-88 ; as a health resort, 86, 87 ; harbours of, 88; prospecting in, 89, '.K) ; copper mining in, 90, 91 ; iron ore in, 94-97 ; coal-fields of, 98-100 ; gold, silver, and gypsum found in, lOU-102 ; discovery of petroleum in, 103; agriculture and farming in, 104-107; forests of, 1(18; climate of, 108-111; the fisheries the staple industry of tiie people of, 112-117; cud fisheries of, 115-117; the seal fishery, 117-120; the herring fishery, 120, 121 ; the salmon fishery, 121. 122; the lobster fish- ery, 122, 123; government of, 124-130 ; Supreme Court of, 130 ; constabulary and fire department, 130-133; population of, 127, 157- 159 ; post-office, 133, 134 ; light- houses, 134; banks 135; 'iie newspaper press of, 135 ; finances of, 136-143; a ligiitly taxed country, 137 ; trade and com- merce of, in 1896, 142, 143; j Ecencry of, 144-155 ; ..a a health I resort, 146 ; Captain Kennedy on \ the climate of. 150, 151 ; sport in, 155; geographical position of, 156; its bays and coastline, 157 ; j education in, 159, 160 ; religious ' denominations in, 160 ; classes in, 161, 162: struggle of England and France over, 165-171 ; ac- count of the great seal hunt in, 173-188; fourth centenary ceh-- bration in, 193 Newfoundland IMineral Syndicate, ! 97 Newspaper press, the, of Newfound- land, 135 Nicholl, and Sel^astian Cabot, 26 NichoUs, Mr. J. F. ; memoir of ' Sebastian Cabot, 9, 10, 26 Normandy, fishermen of, off New- foundland, 42, 44 North, Cape, 25; clifts of, 149 North America, Jolin Cabot the real discoverer of, 6, 7, 26. 33; struggle of England and France in, 163-171 North American waters, catch fif cod in, 116, 117 Norway, scenery of Newfoundland equal to that of, 145-155; cod fisheries of, 115 Notre Dame Bay, 89 Nova Scotia Steel Company, 95 O Oil extracted jiom the blubber of seals, 119, 179 Osborne, Captain Henry, first Governor of Newfoundland, 70 Pacific Ocean, the, 4, 5 Palos, port of, Columbus a^ 17, 19 Paper Pulp Act, 108 Paris, Treaty of, 167 Pasqualigo, Lorenzo, on John Cabot, 5,19,20,23 INDEX. 201 Pelts (soul-skins), 11 H, is;^, 1S4 l'm[)h; the, 135 Potroleiini, 75 ; near Cow Head, 103 Petty Harbour, 148 Pilley's Island, iron pyrites mine on, 75, 00,93-1(1 Pluceutia, Basque tombstone found in, 43 ; road to, from 8t. John's, 78; railway to, 84; the French in, 1(J5 Placentia Bay, 145; silver mine at, 102; herring fishery at, 121 Polo, Marco, 14 Po])ulution of the ishmd, 157-159 Port-au-Basques (harbour), 43 ; railway to, 84, 80, 147 Port uu-Port, 98 ; chromic iron at, 96, 97; lead ore found at, 102; fossils at, 149 Post-Officc, 133, 131 Portuguese flsliermen oil" New- foundland, 43, 44 I' rim I Vistan, spot so named by John Cabot, 15 Privy Purse accounts, 1497, at the British Museum, 17 Protestants in Newfoundland, I2f< Puebla, Spanish envoy, 21 Public debt of the Colony, 137-140 Q (Quebec, 104, 100 B "liagged-jackets" (seala), 185 Railways in Newfwundlaud, 75, 79-88,138 Ualeigh, Sir Walter, and the New- foundland fisheries, 45 ; and Sir Humphrey Gilbert, 50, 51 ; Colony of Virginia, 56, 57 Raniusio, on John Cabot's voyages. 20, 27 Ray, Cape, 43, 10^, 108 Reeks, Mr., articles on petroleum in the Zoologist, 103 Reid, Mr. Robert G., railway C(»n- tractor, 84-88, 103, 1(»7 Religious denominations in Ncw- foumlland, 100 Representative government, 125- 127 Retrenchment policy in Newfound- land, 140-143 Retriever, s.s., loss of, 180 Revenue of Newfoundland, 130- 143 Roads in Newfoundland, 77, 78 Robinson's Bronk, coal near, 98, 99 Rose Blanche, village, 148 lioyal Gazette, 135 Royal Society of Canada, papers read before, by Dr. S. E. Dawson, 24, 25 ; and the Cabot centenary, 193 Russia, growing population of, 38 Rut, Jolin, letter to Henry VIIl., 44 8 St. George's B.iy, 89,81, 149; valley of, 87; coalliold in, 88, 98, 99; iron ore near, 90 ; gypsum at, 102 ; forests round, lOS; herring fisherv at, 121 St. Jdhu's, ships in the liarbjur of, 1527, 44; Sir H. Gilbert arrives at, 51, 52 ; ])opulation of, in 1834, 72 ; iron mine near, 75 ; road to Placentia, 78; district court in, 130 ; the constabulary and fire department of, 130-133 ; post offlee in, 133-134; municipal tax in, 137 ; dry dock at, 138 ; schools in, 159, lOO; captured by the French in 1708, 105; and in 1702, 100 St. John's Cape, 168 St. John's Island, 149 St. Lawrence. French and English in the region of, 47 ; Newfound- land the key of the, 150 St. I'aul's Inlet, petroleum found near, 103 202 INDEX. St. Pierre, island of, coded to France, 48, 74, 11(5, 1G5-16!> Salisbury, Lord, on Newfoundland, 74 Saloioa iisbery, 121, 122 Sundford, Mr., 80 Savings Bank, 135; run on the, 141, , 112 Scenery in Newfoundland, 145-155 Scholarship, new, founded, 160 Sealfishery, the, 117-120 Soal-liunt of Newfoundland, ac- count of tlie, 173-188 Seal hunters, the hardy, 17G, 181 Settlerd, early, in Newfoundland, the " merchant adventurers " and, 64-69 Shea, Sir Anibrose, 81 Signal Hill, 167 " Silver Clift' Mine,"' Plancentia Bay, 102 Skins of sealt?, price of, 1 19 Snowstorms, 110, 186-187 Soncino, Raimondo di, on John Cabot, 20, 21, 23 Southampton, Earl of, 58 Spain and America, 8, 48; and Columbus, 17-19 ; Sebastian Cabot transfers his B?rvicc8 to, 30, 31 ; fishermen from, otF New- foundland, 43, 48 Spear, Capo, 156 Sport in Newfoundland, 155 Sportsmen and Newfoundlnid, 8tj Scjuare flipper seal, the, 177, 178 Squirrel, the. Sir H. Gilbert's vessel, 52 Steam ferry between Newfound- land and Canada, 75 Stow's Chronicle and John Cabot's secoml voyage, 26 Supreme Court, the, 130 Sydney, Cape Breton, 86, 147 T Tarducci, Francesco, on Cabot's landfall, 33; his memoir of the Cabots', 191-192 Taxation in the Colony, 137 Thirkill, Lancelot, 9 Thorburn, Sir Robert, 8 1 Tliorne, Robert, letter of, in 1527, 44 Thunderstorms, HI Tilt Cove, copper mine at, 79, 89, 90, 92 Times, the, on Newfoundland, 152- 154 Topsail, 148 Toscannelli's map of the world, 13, 14 Trade lievieiii, tlie, 135 Treaty g1io;c, the Frencli and, 169, 170 Trinity Bay, 145 Trinity Record, the, 135 Truck system, the, 14;') Twillingate Sun, the, 135 U Union Bank, failure of, in 1894, 141 United States fisheries, value oi", 113 Utrecht, Treaty of, and the Island of Newfoundland, 165-167 Vegetation, 110 Versailles, Treaty of, 167, 169 Vessels engaged in ci)d fisheries, 1891, 116 Victoria, Queen, the Colonies in the reign of, v., vi., 54, 55, 171 ; Newfoundland's record of pro- gress in the reign of, vi., vii., 75, 76 ; and the Labrador branch of the Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen, 194 Virginia, Sir Walter Raleigh founds the Colony of, 56, 57 Voting by ballot, 126, 128 INDEX. 203 W Watlin, 180, 182, 183, 185 Whiteway, Sir William, constructs railways in the Colony, 80-88 ; heads a delegation to tin; House of TiOrds, 170 William III., statute of (•govern- ment by "Fishing Admirals"), G7-70 Willouirhby, Sir Poreival, 58 Windsor Lake, s.s., 180, 187 Winter in Newfoundland, 110 Wolf, S.3., 18(5, 187 Wolfe, General, 47 Z Zoologist, Mr. Reek's articles on petroleum in, 103 thf: end. 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