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"""t.^* ^^*5^ 'l""^^. *^^ '^^7^ ^^ Washington and Franklin ^ndonv MiffhsA colonies I tL progression anHie variV v m thought customs, and action is simply and iust wW wpI +1 be expected when the pressure of ou? i3 878^™^^^^^ YoriT^TV'^'r^' ^r-- from Southam^p^^^^^^^^^ York IS much as if we went from Southampton to Livernool we cross three thousand miles of the Atlantic, and find ou/ selves m another England-New England I-whiTwid IX more or less, to all the states, evel to the Salt L^d a^ifornia-gold-dig^ings and all. All, all is Endish-Twith a difference. A language in common, our school books ami classic lierature on the youthful mind, is the great contctW I link of thought and action. A vast continent modp« nf fl suiting rivers, forests and coasts, with Tpolar and tr^^^^^^^^^^ tr^'^raZZ^:^^^^^^^ altering little ^or notlfn^S I Looking back on a strangely chequered existence "In life's young dream," America was once my home— almost mv counfmr Tr. i woods and fields ,ther(is no one thing I hyeTotTurn^^ ^'^ hand to-so requisite for our own poor emigraSs t^rL?7 stand and to do on their arrival in tL New Crld he hfme arc now, and the population perhaps not a thrrd^su^^^^^^^^ been the astonishing increase of these last Sy or for^^^^ years. It would be indeed interesting to mark the ra^ d testable ; it is forced on us every day ina CihI!. J' '"T" most ignorant Person knows d7aboTtTt SoeksTe' Ml of American ships, and thpv pta +l.^ fl^ uooks are luli people see up ani dornX'^U^s. VeytrmX^lS mfl^^r' ° •/* '^'"^'^/'Jy (''ft™ J-^on^donriiverpo.5- tiiis, by tlie way, if we could shut our eyes on the lhiSL„ of thousands o? our J..i people, who inqCre anxfoiww those ships, and leaye our shores annLly, HS * „ livelihood less pinched, less hopeless, tha/oS Httk island can afford them— nobody can say Dositivelv of ™I!. 7 • ness. for with enough to eat tCt I ^tZ7< "°'^'' ''?^- without a habitation or a name * ItT ^fZv'F/'^*^^' peopL home, a plei wit ho and m expecl erects clearei than e a soei into aj I indeed un Willi Itard f( )ender niles c well find )o mu Lmeric lard w peem t( States, )affes. think [their g [day, a ^ [the rise [tion, an [differing land mi8< Old Wo [short int passages of the g] idle tra^ [perhaps,] i really us tistics am and disgu advantagi Even in 8 or five ye so rapid! sections sj One th America ] faxnily. md Franklin 1 tJie variety what was to stern we still ton to New ) Liverpool; id find our- h will apply, it Lake and lish — witli a -books, and 'j connecting odes of life md tropical hing in the e y. In her turned my 3 to nnder- l, the home scythe, the when the xtent they —such has y or forty the rapid they have I of a free the slower, lite incon- ways; the b are full cchantmeu he life and iverpool — hundreds ►usly after sarch ^ Ji tie island re happi- ^ nothing, fallacy to riduals or \york for rica, our INTBODTTCTION. g a. plentiful table in 5,^001^,^.° ^'•'''- ^ f*'? '""^ tavo witliout sleop-forer ar,?l «Tl i "' appehte, and rest and mo«quitL des'^.Toyed tSC'^fef T"'"'"^? "»« »'^''' expected by the settler Vos,™!^' i, , *^'f ""'« """st be erects liis log cabin iCn Zt\ }f '°'""''' ^^ ^°<^ and cleared eonft'; of the Zt '^^'^''."'^f ^'»t««. and long-sinee 'pondence, for h s n nvf T^. • ^i '," " '""<• "f lonely inde- piiles otr. So much for ttfL""^''''"'"'.";''^ ^^ most^likely to «nd an unmixed good tlifs^^tT/^^ emigrant mu;-t expect too much in the bacCound „ 11 """j!".? new, but it is fcpt ^uierica, who LoTsXut'°/t^r' '•"''*'' »f *¥ writers on Vd ^™Aof clearing land ° I should w't "^ *'"' "'^"''''^^ leem to haye little to do t tb Jl • * ^'^""^ *' '^'^^'^ may States, were it not to exnlnfn !„ '^ "^ '"^^ ^'^'^ at thi *ages Whan I eomp^feXKitfth;" '''' '"'''/"-'"S ■!I tlimk notably in their cities not !t !?1 V *^"^ P^,'''^''' «'»*''• Jthoir greater iize and Sased * frnK "' ''t*"*'''''' •"■ short introductory charter bvw»-<^'™ """ "^"^"^ ^ passages in this ^Sd dancI^Ttl <'^Pl'^*«?n of certain ?f the great Amerlcau^State^!!" ^ *H'?''-« <^?ltiTated part idle traveller, than lend !t~ 7 ' } }^°^- *o amuse the perhaps,) my readers I tHnr''?"' ^^""^^^ incidentally! rcai/us;fuipockct;owXrtr.^.r ''l *° ^ewritten^a tistics and directions&r Ms eSdiifn! oP°*' «rP™'"Ssta. and disgusts he must ove7eo^ tnTir, 7'°^ *1 diiEcuIties advantageshemaylook Wrdto „t1» 1?'^'''.* ""^ '"""^ Even in such a work it wouM hardlTholT ^°l ^' '*"*™- America no! u^g^TdX" deL". ? ^t'i^^.*'^!"?? "^ -«l-g i„ -ny. ««eh an e£i,,e i, b^lh^ Qri^SS 4 INTHODUCTIOV. labourer, or younpr single man, without family interest or fortune, with his axe and his rifle, and a few dfollars in his pop.£et on landmg, he will with industry carve himself out «rn independence m time ; but ior professional men already there IS no opening ; all the cities are overstocked by the natives and tarmmor is impossible except to the labourer; hirin^' servants to work soon ruins those who dream of being gentle", men farmers ! There is— there can be—vo exception to this rule. Twenty and thirty years ago I knew this to my sorrow out too well. After a lapse of twenty years I again revisit Old gcencs—those creeks, those rivers, forests and corn-fields once so familiar ; the cities and villages have spread and in- creased incalculably, while old familiar streets and things i remain to the eye much the same, and with them the tone of I society. What follows does but aim at a faithful and general idea of things as they are at this moment— originally written as a diary, I have been obliged to throw it into a more con- densed form ; which I do but mention to account for its abrupt transitions and want of me^\cd— partaking, indeed, of ray own recent wanderings. CHAPTEE II. AN AMERICiN STEAMER ON THE ATLANTIC. ECONOMY OF AND INCIDENTS ON THE PASSAGE TO NEW YOXK, ETC. I HABDLY thought I should ever revisit the shores of America. JN either impelled by youth, by curiosity, nor by want,— an unforeseen calamity made any change far away from comfort and from home desirable, if but to change the current of my own sad thoughts. Instead of taking the longer line to Liverpool, I am oflf by railway to Southampton. The sports- Southamptc ^^ ^^, ^ oxxwiii taken my berth in London, if I desired a good oneT'it is now! too late. They say so many guineas, with which five or six additional should be understood: the steward's fees, wine, and beer, are not included in the thirty or thirty-nve guineas passage-money. The night-bei "'i, too, is simply a standing one, either above or lelow, shared with some two or three others ; this is awkward. The weather is lovely. I went round the docks ; but I wishl they would water the road to them from Radley's Hotel, and even the docks, m diy weather. I could not admire the bviildf Oi uui- steamers j they have iscarceiy a single good point: the] the ■they wow Igaiu. A jeconomic [the first 1 Punctn [noon, we dock, am [quietly ir [were obli^ half, waiti I came to i jaccompiini [y interest or lollars in his imself out «rn already there ■ the natives, urcr ; hiring being gentle- ption to this to my sorrow- again revisit id corn-fields read and in- and things 1 the tone of I and general aally written a more eon- hr its abrupt deed, of ray AN AMEBIC A>^ STBAMES. !^TIC. ' YO' of c * , noon, we started. A small ,fo„m„ * ^"P'^ber, about dock, and we found ou^^elves TitL Z^?'' "' ""* o*" «'« quietly in the Southam^to . wVr wMi fuir,.'' """'''T" were obliged to suspend our paddles for ti^Lf.T ""' ]"" ualf, waiting for the cantnin tirr„„ , , "^.^ ""urs and a came to usVC ,„?^"'"'*''.!''°i!?'',''=?d*V.™ails. They accompanied by the pas'senge^w '"" ""^ "' ' ^41 i 'Hi "I had not yet come on 6 AN AMEBICAN 8TEAMEB. '^11 board The weather was still beautiful; the wind fair- every hour seemed a day's delay to one's impatience. The captain gave a knot of us a glass of cham]mgne as a lovinjr cup at parting with the consul, the friendly Mr. Crosky, ani some lady friends. j » « « We sat do ;n to dinner as wo rounded Calshot Castle, and passed by Cowes without seeing the famous schooner, the America, at anchor there. Its late captain and crew were with us, going back to New York. It seems to ne an inrrlo! rious conclusion to sell her and her golden opinions. Wliat was five thousand pounds to her o^Tier the commodore ; and what are borrowed plumes to Captain Lord Blaquiere, or to the Cowes squadron P— their plumes "fluttered m Corioli '" 1 thought the price enormous ; but I learned on board here that she cost twenty thousand dollars buUding, with an ruccTeded "^ thousand more as a present if she The steamer I am in has good qualities, bat is not fast. Her arrangements and fittings are excellent. The dinner abounds with good things, and even this first day was put on innnrl fh/ ^;^T^1^' ^J^'**' ^ ^^^^ '' ^^^^«y murmured round the guarter-deck ; the servants, who are some dozen mulattocs in green velvet uniform caps, and neatly dressed take their appointed divisions behind us, and are very clean' i active, and efficient Besides joints of all sorts, roast and! boiled, we have fish, soup, and many entrees and horsl djuvrcs Ihe tarts and puddings very nice ; aiid, above all. an abundance of ice to cool our beverage. Very little wine is drank, or liquor of anv kind, I find ; partly owing to fhe very high price . larged. Most of the good wines are eight-and- sixpence the bottle. Our bottled beer is t-o shiufngs the bottle Ihis is tbe steward's perquisite. It is hardly politic, nor IS It quite fiiir. A passenger is forbidden to bring his own wine ; the advertisement savs it " may be had on board :" and for " may " we read *• must.^' M One thing strikes me at the very outset in these American steamers, of immense importance as an improvement-thev consume their own smoke The httle tug was clouding M the dock with her black volumes. The smoke of this vessel's mimense boilers was almost imperceptible, and so continued, CTen at the instant of throwing on fresh coals. Why is it that our steamers in jdl our rivers and waters are allowed to remain such detestable nuisances in tliis Tinrtir,.l„r_i„ ., imrbours, in ihe TJiames above all P ' , Those who travel mut have no ten.ler symiiathies to throw a^ayon the^ poor brute creation. One unhappy cow, torn from her calf continues to low ; the poor thing fsMn her crib beiorc the paddle-box, where there is another for the supply AN AMBBICAK STEAMEB. f nf^k''?''".^ twenty.four hours finds us getting a fiiml dimpse of the last rocks and light-houses of the sliUv Ses The cTnt;X:fof1h' cloud most beautiful, Ld S^'steS: SeZlW fn fl ^^' ^^'*^ 5^^^ ^^ ^^"^^^1 lie backing nignt, make all the difference m their terrors iMuAf^i^^^^^""^^^' keeping on the Channel parallel of in f K ^ ^T l^^ ^''"'r*' ^^«*^^ «f «*eering at oLe to the southward of west ; the great desideratum being to get to the , will take us. By-the-by, this east wind already feels mow» 80ft across the waves tfian it did at homrXere we i^atW lhateea.twnds. Wo roU gently, the waTe; 7s a %uXn5 te fo^«^ rV "'/^"- ^f ^^^^ ^^' «ligl^* motion is too Uwf 11 ^J'^^' ^""^ stomachs. The womin are alluneasV k half ill, and so are many of the men. Our run hrb^en bout two hundred and forty miles from CowS. During the ii^ht we pa^s abreast of Ireland and Cape Clear, but too far Indt: Itis Whiv- 1 ^.^Tf^'^-^" ^^^ «^^^^«' ir Sie W s [leatUarkS^^^^ '^ "«^^^^^" ^^P« ^^^-^ as a rnJH^?,®"^^^' ^^^S^ ^8 ^e may, still so " ahead" of ii«, are no less, 1 am told, than a liundrcd and six Dcrsona ho nooi Thfi.?; ^ T" ?*^ *'"''«, f " ^""in''' lino" to £hrcr° nnm W „f "''^ J""'- """^ "^ *''» ^unard line. This Jeat number of persons consists of the sailors, cneincers stoW cabin servants, stewards, stcwai'dess, ^d tC IfstaX-' captain, mates, and cooks. All seem to worKith the^o,t ibotfaZfair l"^ „^"' "'""r^- We"ev:r"hVJ:;rd nobody seems to want any orders or directrons l""''"^"" ' .■a£ and fift'f i^ "• "'-.'''? ,P»«™K"" in Iho first class "t'^^:^' V!''..!-°"<> ?!-; to "".mo on the qtrtcr-det t u I 'i "ii. ''"* "''^'"^"*' '^^^iftt'w '18 into two rnsfcM I nmiM not holp d»--.|lmK „no,. this „„,,|„„,™t f,u-t. IIov, muolT "vo ■id 4*i ' f 8 AN AMEEICAN STEAMER. economize-slie who, immediately on her arrival, will be in verv ft r/.r'^"'^' " '^' Wen," there, whe^e oerliLy very few of the mere 8team.l)oat first class<.s can -et or those, many of whom I .ee at the same table here There EX^t«l^^^l57 -ih ^"^^ ^-^ ?« '^'^'^'^Y I^umUiaiing and uncomfortable while it lasts ; it leaves a feeling of undue irri. tation upon the mind. ^ ""uue irn- With four of us in the same smaU cabin on the second or ooTot an^i 7.^'' ' - dining saloon, or great cabin, X airTs too hot and close The ventdation is capitally contrived, and all as we 1 planned as possible, still I .ct up nrettv earlv t ii^\"^f dress out of fhe way, and gai^lheXk S itl a^ It 18 washed and getting dry. Now, though the weather and tlT^' t^^V'^^"^* '&'^ ^^^^^' ^« ^l^^rming and fair there nl«f T^'^v" '""^ ^^* *i« dancing bluelaters and the clear sky. Wo are cut off from the world, in our little hunianity sense, and hum alone in our bee-hive upon t e Ltftabirstinli^^^^^^^^^ '^^" '''' ^^'^^^-^- ^' -^-^^ - " Dark iKjaving, boundless, encUeas, and sublime." ,..„ w""^^' l!^^/-Lj^ ^^^ *^ ^^^^^ °*^ier ^-itli less reserve. We ext' o«nl"'"X ^'''\^T^' ^^ Particular conversation. Sitting next each other at table is one link to further intimacv • and al takes the eouleur de rose. Thank heaven ! ther^ w^ll tZ^ro'^''''^'''r "^«^ff-able tedium, or to be bored to .11 n,"pn ? "'"; ^f' ""P ^^ ^ """^^"^ P^^^^' ^^d be all things to Pil men-if not too long at once, or our sinceritv and impatience may get the better. Hinctriiy ana Yesterday tiie deck was chalked for a game reouirino- strength and address called shovel-board. aSLi nuS of squares are numbered, into which round, flat, m oodeu tZ.r It tV'?'^^'^'-'"' '^^ &^^ *^- deck from a aisiante. It is good exercise. Other parties arc nlaviuff tfrne'^ Som"^'''-1''^ "^•^^.T^^^".-' V way of passFn7th? tmic^ home are at chess and backgammon. "^ ^ ^ In all our m^counts of similar trips. I do not recollect to Have seen iiuy mmute description of the manner in which so many pcop e thrown suddenfy togetlier spend tinr t me and he general economy of the'cabins and^ the crevvs To be Millar' ^^^^^.^^"^^ ^- '^'^ S"d of the passage, comprise al v^o hear; as if there were nothing to say or nothing to know In good 800th the 8ub|ec;t seems little less monotonous than it 18 in Itself, but a little information mav bo cxtr^inf .d VrZlt o^ttung and dnnkmg seem the great business of our lives • i.nglisliman these necessary eiijoymcnfs are inconceivablv Vttiied and copious. We brcakfaitat half.past d^? a.ni ; a I, will be in ?re certainly can get, or ere. There iliating and undue irri- 3 second or n, the air is itrived, and tty early to as soon as eather and i fair, there rs and the our little upon the which we AN AMKBICAN STEAMEB. a 2rve. We I. Sitting intimacy ; there will be bored all things ierity and requiring in number t, wooden k, from a playing iHsmg the collect to which 80 time, and J. To be iprisc all to know. 18 than it (rot)'! i*".. foS' Tltt'fhT/"r"^'^. '^' passengers to their nrcDarVtofv fn^r ^^\!'y'^ "^«^^W air is desirable as a preparatory, for the night is passed instiHing heat to all those not having a skuttle or window in their caW Certainr tliongh the arrangements and fitting np of the lo\^^r deck cabms are exceUent, with every contrivUce for hedrcnla hion of air, four men lying within two or three feet of o«n} lother on little shelves, forlhe cabins are onl7six or eig^^^^^^^ ^luare, make it anything but pleasant. iLwbd letting more to the south, and softer, be^gins to teU upon is foS Tou^'^X/T""^ slumber in^a profuse pe?spira"ion But p our eating economics. We lunch at twelve and dino JnnctuaUy at three o'clock, not too much hurrtd Some! limes we liave ice creams, pears, dried fruits, oranges, apTes filKvstnuts at dessert. nnH win« r^ff«« 1-_^ ^^' appies, *I,.atnuts at iess^.^-^:;^^;:^^^^^^^ a. Sometimes we have champagne. Tea >is ) clock, when there is onlv inn mn^h «f ^ Jlls for itin turn ^.....,,,,^.« „« nave cnampagne Tea is &1 oTthe ? wf 'Tt'" *^T '' -1^ t- --h o/meat i^latt'd s*o tJ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^"' P^^'^^^P«' -^ 1^-- a httle music, 1 18 the 13th of September, the weather still lovelv • our .ots are well cleaned; towels, water, aU well supplied ?nbo; nf' '""P?'^- ^^"^Pkins and towels every day frsuch a .nnl Ti ^1^^^^^ ^''^ «' sumptuous as our dinners everv »nceivable thing on the table : hot rolls, toast S buttn? Liio pano 18 near tho stern windows- eitliev n^rl Tfwf Lians— the Uermans. wo innv k« .. ^.^ p", . ™.'^*'*" Dinyed niceiy. ' '"' ''"'' ^'^'''' '"^'"^ °^ ^^^''^ ^^ds is ]!r\h?r''' '^'tr' ^^ ^^^" ''^'^''^' °^«"tH of 8k.amers • that mc trT ^« t.oZ;ont, ll^t^,;M Ifl . the unhappy President or the Grt^t iintu^, a «i8ter «h.p, which wm shortly broke up as imsea- 10 AK AMSaiCAMT STBAMEE. public know nothiL wJf ^k 11 i^"'''' *^8' °'"' P«P«r minute detoiiro?evorvSibTL"l.*''fP'"l''"' °(."?"'' ""d real "naked tmtt''rerknown °"' ^""^ ^''^ °^ *^ tlie first e?^ment of srfe^y^'"'" "^ """^ ""'^ buoyant- Ont Cy 'i^eLtei?' 'j-"" "^.TPPeared since we .ailed, tlien: tal^ 1?^ poo dt i, fSion' ^tl^ ^J - ''- Oft such tricks "as mSrthe ZewVen?" n '^'' ne^er sufeslt lo wter Ik;^„%r*rtl7'^ "°?I'.'^ mulattoes and neero°B on Kn»T "'§"*-. ^ -1" fus respect the ferocious as their m„;L^ *?,'*, *" 1*"*® "» unkindly and are our svm™,th; JT ' tl'ey Bhow no compassion. How "distinction^ ^ of circumstance, but always with a Lld^dteSd°o"23t''*lr * ^".^r''^ t^« as- under fourteen Ws. b.ft t'nl 'l "j '"•'* i''*' "'« '^ not in inighreli^runknor" ""^ '^'""''' "^^ —"^-t, this is ^tat"^ ourrn^cwe?'"'"?^ "'*'' '"'^■•" «-^-" slus^ish. Here "LnvholIwrktrHZ ".'"»?"''«''«'?: away leLbVll™ ^gh T h'&^^k^'S:!^^ t""** second clnos piissenaera of wS ^i b fore-cabm or they lived in tim nn?f .f> * 1 ^® know no more than if cooL and scrtantrtherl«r " 'T'^^' "stablishment of AN AMERICIK STEAMEB. Jl to bed and get up afdita L„i lUs'S^Zlt f 'go-ahead" New World l^unchmg his 8on in the wn nausea to contend wifli Vf.^/ i u ^' besides their •nd and attonti jSa^^^ ,^X, "St^k^Z^'' sends us, steciW we^r W .r^'^j'^^^^^ ^ e last twenty^four L^r AH rptf '"' ^''' l^^ T^^« ^^^ ireased uneasLss fvZL gt at'? s we'll 'N^^V' '^ '^^ "Z' tiust have recently swept ofct this t7«ri. .P .f """'^ ^ ^^l^ w porpoises are seen Uf I1.I . ^^ *'^® ^^^^^n. A %htenedbySrnois;andfoa^7^^ ^'""l^r' "".^^^^^^ ^^ all shadesSTrC of t chu^Si om'^' H^^^^T'"' "^ service would act as a ^nvf nf „ ^^^ °* Jl^ngland. Any one rest; soitisbetterwesC^^^^^^ "^^T'^' ^^ ^^'<^ Power-to our ffre^t Crea/n/ n ?? ?^^ face of the waterf of thy Stv^^ }^^ ^" ^^^"^' ^'^ *i^^ and love, and humble ^,d,m?J ^Tl'l, ^%,1^P my ^^ratitudo mind niy recent 8o?ml 1 J ''^.? *? ^^'^ ^^" ' ^^^^ from my wh^UllS^-^^ Of SOlJ ^•nim to cur iuirt bosoms, and"makeH"^ -"" "' ^""f'^Hmr stealing us from ourselves away, n- „5«^^ "»fimt« i« thy goodness ^ mourn my lost sweet love. She nd watched aud been wound ^\ Boftening dfc W up m as my other self: 1^ j 1 1 AN AMEBICAN STEAMEB. the opening flower to smooth and irive a h»lm fn n.^ ^« r • years The agony and bitternoi^oflhe blow isSef^^^^^^^^ , But to the immediate business of mv lift. Ti,^ ^o rising remind me of eternity and of fate^ .'^^'^'' " Kor^h hew as we may The conduct of our lives." oftener. krsnch f/the Ta r.'« ' fT '*"™"^' ■""-=•' y»5 If o'f tfcs r dH %^!^ rd'r'"' <"• >^v progressing princinle is r^nilili T "^^^fierence, on the u this 'e^nit::,:;\irJ-z^^::t^f/ ir • ■ ' aud tho few not lyinK domi ar^ „t (L !.„1? * i ■'■' '"'""*■ __ '^/^PV^^^? "l«J' .*^»« company IS mid im nnn ,?«ii„ uunum uyihe United States' Yrovc^iimenVT.^^rirT'J^^ carry a mail, and (hey were to have ]iad four bo«f7 T r .V ** '"^'^' unable to get sharZldl.!Z.ti^^^^^^^ get sliaroholders enough U up one of tl.ei.bestves.-l^S'^^uiir'airHSoli^ >cy .were forced to give and 3 my declining s already soft- • calamity. I endearments, iild anticipate cable decree—" rd, how very autifiil world, s of its most ite — to forget L the millions ry fallen leaf, lied limbs, a soul, let me AN AMERICAN 8TEAMEH. 13 The waves )re swell and 3 have been a the piano ; e. People's bo withstand s, while our tie good at le. To-day 1 yesterday. Franklin are faster and finer vessels than this or the Her- mann, her lister ship. ^^^ f. V-fi-''^^^'xT'P ""t^^ •'^ ^ tons costs twenty pounds a ton building at New York. Larger ships cost somYtK less lTit'a^d°?T '""rr"'' J^r^y the^steamersT;^;^^^^^^^^^ ight and fashionable goods between the two countries It 18 curious and instructive to hear the Americans talk of wide ^K "'?'^^*^°''»■'ged to tho westward, and isvervliett *„™ "A^"*' " *'?*''y '"^''" ^P'^'lo' "«• The engines were topped for ten minutes in the night for some purpose iTk ^xact truth of anything !-each person colours things in his 'nsume 120 tons of coal in the twenty-four hours • it is credible. I find to-day a much more likely sto^-about :htv tons. Even that is enormous, and is^nor^nfessed this steamer the consumption is about forty tons eaUed Jr^-six occasionally They talk of not being abK get ud ooa. uur run to-day has only been 224 miles The I,a.Uwo days, owing to the pitchmg of tyZlT^^^'Z I am more and more astoni'ihed at the inexhaustible vroviainn of every conceivable thing, and such a conSt vSv tT as appears on the tabb. Yesterday we had roMt 3 honpH turkeys and oyster sauce, fried soles and sSmon, s^up S m the day), roast beef, mutton, fricaseed fowls coti^^,;1-^„, veal cutlets roast ducks, and geese (cranberryTm s^S ' all ais m the greatest profusion for some Sv wonlT varielr Desstt'^' » ''''"''■""'"S*'' i"g-at pL^ytd mZt; oranges ^SfalFS T^"^' ^'^r' »'"-''«• is ^XfeirTgo^S tZ: "One'il^vt^dr "f r'' ^ u AK AUEBICAH 8TKAMEH. r7\ In ? ''•"'* ?^ ice-house ; nothing is killed on ho«^ Could Colnnibim but rUe and behold tI;o wl„;Li ?. ™- smce his dajfs of .cur.y or Bttvatttlcouirha bu? seeT «tLri, ^ .lum nary. How inexpressibly grand mb C to God! Tt' 'fl"''yr^'^°'*' lifting the so^i to heaven and to trod! It softens that anguish which steals nrS\Z., i in moments of recollection. ! look ud at the T?L^- ^«. "^ and think it my bright partie«?ar?ta?im; !ost comfoW indulge, but % the " luxury of woe' Wwir"'' ^ "*"'* "'" can understan\or share "^ nLToun''iraie° theracred Z^ The swe 1 gradually subsides^in a sSrlgree On alll wide seas it is in vain to expect still wat-r The Inn^ ^^ • wave ever heaves in ceas&ess undXfon TherT TZI more talk, more ga etyj the ladies come onf „f *i • ?° \ «io.., though stUl for^the mosrrtXt,"if„"' 'Lt" tastes. We and the Americans do the same, but the faoihtv of the same language has perhaps most to do Vi^ it ^' 1 am amused and instructed tW fT,« n^«,.^-„„ Jzl .'. „ i pure Americans, and their opinions of o.;;;;;S^raWft^ I ^utZ .PP' *? ^""'7.''^' '^^''y differ among themselve J^ide as the poles One party thinks and knows dltL Captain Marryat, Mrs. iWlope^ and othei; add to be per!' ?d on board, derful change 9 but see the '0 steadily at AK AMEBICAN 8TBAMEB, 16 lagined, with I pitching, a lult with by a im of it in a a few polkaa ipt to accom- an proved a keepers and arming with ilouds fringe ison glory of nd are the heaven and ver my son] v^ening Star, )8t comfort, 3nce on my I must not no one now 5 sacred, last 't we should , are almost thers. The mankind, ■ee. On all ong oceanic 3re is now :heir cabins ig, pensive, all, and yet we fancy a often close >cial on the >, perhaps, 3 ideas and the facility it. ^ ainoug luK ibout them themselves ^s all that to be per luch as shirt-sleeves, and legs cocked up on S tat '^Z'^^rf"'' ""^^"^^ ^'^ *^- ^^^'* ^ 'Sg about ffere one sees aU the peculiarities we have laughed at • bnf describe or to fix them on individuals, would at this tiie of le day be neither novel nor amusing : the imLe is wnln . f he novelty of conduct soon departsf ;nd wSd ?h7;^«.l'^*' rter all, essentially mnch like ourselves ^ P^"'"^"' «e ffrowimr out of Aai^ mv^ *"^^ia juhg now about town 'av writers, vith their cleverness or fin.f ^ ^?^ ^''''^^• it a la launch, are widrofTe m4^7;f^^^^^ >ry laws they would affect to estaS, p ^^^'""T' *^^ t8 grow more^feeble. The essence of ^if ^^^l^^^^^^t^y ^^^ lale understanding and somft.^l i. *S''^ humour, of a id things i^H if\iTf eS^v flfl^^r'^'^"?^-^ ^^ *^« ^'«rld ^ce, and prUdles pandered t^'?f^^^^^^ , too frequently Wher« p«n w. i ^^^giously believed ^ot exhibiting tim by";:ro7'se\^^^^^^^ country goes on amusing itself^cSw Xfl. ^H? ^^"i^ ,»opping them up ajid doln in an^o^ } of A • P^ ff^.^rods, ike the prairie-doirs of th. vll -^ ^^ *^^^^^ ^'^^^^ l^o^es, ^^w^^^^"" "^"V" exemplify themr'xwThink in moraU. WorX iJ infinil^ v * «"^*^^"r convenience >voras are rnhnite. Very good words may be IC AN AMERICAN STEAMER. used to defend and make tHe worse appear the better reaarn in everythmg. Your party writer ean, in any given week write round the circle of opinion, and so hasli up truth and lalsehood that men swallow all, and sink into a Babel of on- tusion. Hence our obscured ideas of good and bad Wo grow stupified m our speculations, and would be saints when most we play the devil." J^ot so the young and active spirits for good or evil. They march on, and lau|h at all laws—all human laws, at least-that cross them^ and these are often so bad, so contradictory, so absurd, that one almost ceases to marvel at it. The great code, therefore must be kept intact—" Success warrants everything " Thus morals are often made to assume any accommodating shape. Ihis, too true of nations, descends into and holds good of private lile, both in America and England, to an extent not suspected. We are so far lucky. To-day the wind is steady and gentle trom the north-west, the sea still smoother. We set our studding-sails again, and the deck is covered with walkers and shovel-boardersv Sounds of a fiddle strike the ear in one ot the cabins, cards are playing right and left, and the sun shines brightly down on us, lighting up our tables. Two vessels have already passed us on the far horizon. JS^obody thinks of communicating in any way ; speaking them is totdlly out of the question ; it is still en avant ! We approach on this the 18th of the month, and must be near the Bauks of Newfoundland. The morning is cloudy the water smooth, and aU our little sphere sufficiently alive In this world everything is judged by comparison ; sol hear from a young man who has crossed eighteen times in steamers He says that the Cunard line is the best, and most stylish m the cabin appointments. The steamers are as fast ami safer than the CcUins' line, better built, and more carefully navigated. From the Amcroans I only hear ofi CoUms s steamers being the fastest. They are both, lust now, ten pounds dearer to cross in, but are coming down to thirty pounds or guineas. Surely this sum, after all, is enormous compared with the short-passage steamers among ourselves or on the American waters. We are told, however, that they are often losing concerns ; the four or five thousand pounds nassage-monev being swaUowed up in losses, in expense, freights, and so on hmali consolation to idle travellers. The captain affects to be dissatisfied with even 250 miles a day ot twenty-four hours, consuming onlv Por^.v triv.a .-.f qqxx\= let us suppose. The ColHns' line "vessels consumes^ *e^rhtY tons a day and gains on the whole perhaps only one or'^two days out of the twelve or thirtee: ' e passage is now reduced to; it i certain, little ^r steamer with a don't y< mock a| — one r( knots tl we are i Durir ning acr not verj and fair steering sun. T world ve is again miles, h air is C0( shall ru for this close cal After fresh agi but mor( perceptil down, ai tures of unmovec Then, ag real unvi must see thing is c detractec truth, an this pron Beside beauty o] still drej take a p;i world's b ever hav( its Tnimif, Let CroBs We shou less, liber up to, iter reason iven week, I truth and bel of .on- bad. Wo be saints roung and d laugh at :hem; and 1, that one therefore, ?." Thus /ing shape. Is good of extent not and gentle '^e set our h walkers ear in one d the sun les. Two Nobody J them is I must be is cloudy, ly alive, son ; so I . times in best, and ers are as and more Y hear of | »oth, jus I; ; down to with the American en losing ge-money md so on. >0 ftiiles a 3S eighty fie or two T reduced AN AMEBICAN STEAMEB. 17 IS to; It 18 hardly fair on this "Ocean" line. One thing i8 certain, our engmes t, jrk very smoothly and steadily, with little trembling, not so much as with the more powerful steamers from Liverpool. We now wind the evening up with a duct of fiddles playing " nigger" tunes, " Susanna don t you Ciy, "Lucy Long," at vrhich there is boisterous mock applause. At starting we drew nineteen feet of water —one reason why the engines could not drive us beyond ten knots the hour, and barely that, without the help of the sails : we are much lighter now. , During the night of this day, the 19th, we have been run- ning across the Banks. We encountered drizzle and fog, but not very intense. It clears off, the breeze becoming gentle and fair from the north. We pass two ships at a distance, steering the same way. Their sails shine cheerfully in the sun. I he sea, too, is comparatively smooth, and all our little world very pleasant and lively. The game of " shovel-board" 18 again much m vogue. The run at noon announced 250 mUes, having nearly, if not quite, crossed the Banks. The air IS cool ; and, as we are now steering west south-west, wo shaU run into warnaer air ; not that it is at aU nf^cessary, tor this cooler weather gives us comfortable nights in our close cabms. Aiter a night of rain the wind is round for the first time tresh agamst us from the south-west, bringing warm sunshine, but more pitching, and the late smooth sea by degrees, but perceptibly enough, piles up unpleasantly; many heads are Clown, and pensive people in reclining positions. What crea- tures ot habit we are ! I constantly see and hear things unmoved which certainly at home would have disgusted me. ihen, again, I find an extreme difficulty in getting at the real unvarnished truth of the most ordinary occurrence. One must see with one's own eyes, or be wide of the mark ; every- thing 18 described here in hyperbole— everything moustrously detracted from or exaggerated. How easy it is to He like truth, and deceive under the garb of frankness itself— whence this proneness to escape from the " modesty of nature?" Besides all this, let any man with some of life's poetry, the beauty of earth and heaven's own pure images in his mind, still dreammg of disinterested, innocent moral influences, take a passage across the broad Atlantic. JS^ot the terrestrial world a blind and most fervid adoration of the golden calf can ever have given him so clear an idea of the potent spell in all T"4-"r^''"" "'"''"^"■'^^' *^ "'' ^^'^ ^^**^ •'^^^ xaDiefi 01 a steamer* het Oroesuses and Hothschilds go about the earth and water ! We should only be rich, " very." That is enough. Be care- less, liberal to extravagance, that is the only virtue. All look up to, or down on you, accordingly. They scan your c ■1 H 18 AJS AMEEICAV ST. AMEB. nese, common enoueli evprv,v1,.,.„ ■ i ** «'^''<^di. into an intensity enXhtnS!" v t^"^ concentrated economy of a pasTeS iCl ^^pT^" "."^ foredoomed boats Tl,r ;. *^ ' I ., aoliorred of Iiote s and steam- one away and ir^'"'/'"' "gi-ccable, the pleasant, all dZ wherhSe tW tv ^n 1 r^.P"'^*- Tlie *amefid price ^ take w^n» l-^t ^^ ?° '',"'*y *«*' "10 on these tlionghts We must set «V^ T^ "f"^' '^^ V¥^^^ " handsome, "w: tTelye or Wee?, d»f '"^ '"'' "'^t K^"*"" PO' l-eal for will ne^er e^uTe us ^' 4lden^^ - ^" S^*''^^^"'- ^^f' '' escape a shi^g of pity ^^ °^""°'"' ™'" P^^i' i"* *» an enomous excess^ O^o^reT'*''^ '' sometimes carried to a wine or champagne ^ildZ to'Z"? " ^'^^'^ "f""' ^"« three pint bottle. C,^ on hL to tet 'T.f ^^ '°'*° '""* a sort of Hntnm«i;o „ i, £^ .• S"* nd of. The scene was lingerinyXTnora^f ou3nra^e""o^t' h' '^''r''^;/'"' passages oyer the ocean ' out-Heroded m these HeclnomeAmSslV:- ^'^^ *""'??'?'«'« ■"-:» "^ » amongtheirsMS It ;, r?^' ""^ g^'^'^g ground, cyen captafns make t^ ef ' . H.L ^'"' '"''ate™'- rules their sea- seamen Th^L 7 ■ S*'" =■ proselyte among their sake flnri Li.ff "^ som^ hi^Je correct ons for health's st::CVetearnrhar^^^^ pos^ive comfort, it isMtto' fare, hard his wTrk?W his hfe ^'w ''^ V^''. ^^^'« seamen cnliffhfeiie^ n^^ . !• i .*. ^e would v li to see absurd f -No W ,• ^^^t^cal " say theoretic persons- life would indeed Jf'^''"""^^ ^^"^ ^« the seaman's lot ; I thl Zf 'o J'^''4^.^-'. .^ '"^ purgatory Jf they were better off I amenities of Siis Zo^W^'^^W^^i ^"^ ?^ '^j*^ *^^ delicacies and I AN AMEBICAN 8TEAMEE. jg seems, indeed, a mockcrT A fln!f ^"1 ^^^ *° *«"> cast. Thouoaiida nf S™ '^'•"'" ^ <>" shore, their doom is hardest b" of tLwo«?useTvir^"-'''°''' ITl ^^^^ '''^^ nitU Dr. Johnson's de&,Mrnnf»^if'^^'''u^^ »'»''«• whether in the Z^, ttCt se^ict?r*eoa.'t"t trl^'*""-."?' Ss^XtrtnT^^^^^^^^^ i.:at^:a^erSSEFxt^^^^^^^^ promotion bv flvm,^^..7' ***™"st extrarapantrate ; give ioto obli° W; Xw pert l™;i,"&''"" ""' "J,"* veterans's^* under niinist^fd M^eW Tnd th. w"^/ • *^? ''«''l'>"'t» ?»' Ti! dr? 3zr "^~ - but not much, and we hare run 226 Ssjn^t I^? f '*''^"'' four hours. Our arrivil i« r^^^A;„tj7 ? "*' '*'' t'^'enty- mil pass us. predicted to an hour, and scFeral with diffieultl, for these cfafrsIrLttSW'''"' '^' have onlj been stopped twice or threp ti,^ i ^t^S^s over, for about twjnty mbutes each ti^r T^ ^''°'« '^aj Win to look after the Hheste TndTnW ""l Pa^^'^'S,?' Castonj-house searchers Je Tpoten rft ^.:^'"S'""- ^'"' Wft have 11 flno f:^,'« „,:„ j * n ,i .5^ J '''**t*. dressed sma^iy'^nd ™iW It nf^. oM " i!" **" *''<' ?•"■ ^•''^. landof i... j«, „„tiTfi4*rrditr^^^^^^^^^^ 20 AEEIVE AT NEW YOBK. Staten Island and TrZ^r tJ^ i J^arrows,' between buUtofbrfct ilShet^^ "'"" *'"^'=-«- t"""--. about the qnar Jtine So" w£e ^hllfP'' 1**''° ^^'^• on board. This is n, la,-„r„;ii • '^"^^^ °^'^«'' "omes smcella^tsawittwontv^ca^i I'f' '"^'"''^''d ? hundredfold opuJent citizens of S-^"T^Kkv«fr- °^ """? ^'f <"'' *''" New |ork s^o ^In^e^lot^t'^'^^oZtT If STV' V from Slieemcss to London Bridi-i. ™,r tk • ? ^"fi'"'"!. busy, beyond, far bev ond Tl??^!' S. ^'*™''^ " ^"^- '''"^ly, fin/ourselvesouMon? A.^ European world ; here we the city, the forel of mJfyrT^-^"'^^'' "'"> '"'^-'■>- to and East rive^ weastSin? n'' H'^'ir'",^^^ Hudson river aide, it is a 7^^^ X,3V. ^'N'''^ ?^°'^''' "'^ Hudso* l-allv,Iam sorrTto rem^^^^ ^^*' "^P^-^i"^' gene- ^ ^S!;;ir IS n^M^^n^i^^^ yachts at Cowefl ^ ""^"^ ^"^^^^^ "« "^) ^^^^ our cU CHAPTEH III. mm YoRK^rrs hotels. WATEirvoitics, and thikgs IN QJ5NEIIAL. ^^iiNOS telTatte'rafr^^^^^ ^'''''Y ^« *^ ^^« ^^^^'al flatter; but ^0^1^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ .a Jut the fof instance, its bav its tr n VrL. f ^ ^ ''^^ positive idea , mde, itself the l)S]a",oCen w^^^^^ ^'f'^^ fi'^*^ itself. While in the ritviflPlffmi ''""^ ""'' ^'^^^'^^i but I upset any co riace these last twcnyyarsi^^^^^ Imvinkon I fionds o]^ th< y years and go on changing. J3ut we I the deck, ma are hai are coi wharve Our eon fusil deck; J mates, luggintr each sic comb — I On this crowd oi of lugga ofBcials- troublesc thej eve which c{ enough, portfolioi as ho tun F— -— , w banities o —for the] was goiuj steamers- coasting I of notions, the immln in face of < rushing in as we adva the right— —of the B, tlio Ejist an the mighty to more prt ruin as fast l^fot across t] now had it 1 fid for any office had q\ tlio gang-bo ftisiou bocoi te, sandy, ',' between batteries, eity wliite aten Isle, -er comes ndredfbld sides, the ^-lionses. ives tJiey the bay, steamers, i in vast proacli to Enj^rland, U, Hvely, here we nearer to Hudson Hudsoi^ J o'clock, this vast t and in, ble. ig gene- To say hhey will 3 cliiiper our club MQ8 general 3Ut the 3 idea } id oru'h f ships, rpool— rth but e taken J3ut we NEW TOBK-CUSTOM HOFSE. £1 wharve..''ou the oppS sfdeTf ?he riZP' "' ''""'^ ^''^ deck; kuocked abouHnd ^A^^'^^Td f^"?^' °? *!>« qu/rtcr. mates, or crew, who are " yo.hZl"^t hll^'*^"" S"?'"^- luggmjf her alongside tUo sliD nr „l„f J "T®"? and ropes, each side of the city run inT,,ni ^^^''^.'^''''''f-'^hichron fomb-(eaehtwo hundred VIl, f ""^ T^ '*° *« '«<"!' of" On this slip apnea™ to m,.f?F'"i'^"'''y»''fifty broad) crowd of eager peSre„dv'?nl,r'^'' '^'"?Y' «" ^■"ense of luggage !%^fst uTde4^ofn*°t?nrfe:i o?ti, P^*'"' r*^ officmls-who I find not at al^ "S " A^ C"stom-houso troublesome, and vexatinmfW 4 ~'"^' ■»»'•» minute, tlie^ eren bmL open sol of th ""r" Costom-houses-.: wLfch could not b^e opened f J^! ^"'1 P^f^S'-'^ and boxes •■"ough, and insisted on bokin.l!.^:."'' ^^ *'?"• °'''""' 9"^* portfolios. My fellow " cS ffi '^f fT IT^f'^fdesks* and - ho tumbled Ju „.yThi;^ Ibout4n1he ™inf "'oh' ^ f '" j<_ „ijy J, J J ^ luiue ram ! Oh, Captam bamfes of Custom-hoLe Xrks' We^l^Hr"? ^f 'H."^' —for there was nothiuff to t«lr„ ,' / ' f*^"? '<'"'' noth mg w-^ going to expatiato'on tie bSs ofl n"""™ ', ''"^ ^ steamers-the forests of masts nnTft? H ^''S '^'' '■""y coasting and river ^om« Jlf j ? steamers' funnels— or the f»oaon,. ineludi^'t^ oyi^r'TumlJ'''''" 1''' "" "''"^s (he numbers of sIudI oCnU^r ?' R'^PPkins. and staves— on in face of the citXnl S "f . '"-ou the whole walS^ rushinjf in all difectb fs-o™ tie Io^'t' ""''' f'^ ^''^''^-boats f ireadvanccd-andthe irentWilo .f S""? '''°''''' *" '^o left the right-with its subu^lf eUvof n. w " %« I^'andside to -of the Battery Poht^nd ilnn ^ 7-3'>'? "'^ ^^'^'*» "iti^^oM tU Ea.t and Hudson rvorfo^ro^'of'' "f 'T'' "''''''•'' divides the mighty stir of tli^^w World .BurT'''-''"'-™'"'? to more pressing concerns and ,?^„ . ""' ^ """s' attend rain as fast as I cau-and not a bit ,*?!' ^"''" ""•' "'" ^^ P""'"? got across the Atlantic ?nt"velvolttrd^T)'r°^?'' ■'" V '"« now hud it kept me a whole monrt, " i 1 »■•'»'/— twice before f'll for auyth ng ' The rli ?? . TI "n"°''"''y '« ""o"- grate- fee had quite IpsetZZanTmitv" *^"f """''ouse ja^k-in- lio gang-bWd and tliefleennvmhiTl'l '"}, """' '"" ^^" «"'- fusion becon.es ^m^olSX^t^tt^tZ'^'l'':}^- -- ot «t 1 2 NEW TOBK— -HOTELS. ■ fr?mtilS/"' '"^«''°^' '"^ """"y d-PateUod to tout HappUy, " time and the liour run through the hottest rfnv •■ granite ; indeed'Sd "he Quinc™fr'ltT""'^"« immense pile, five or six stories Wif Sti in tl. n ' ? way-street, at the south end of the ''d- " *'"' ^™'"*- about^^u aere. P.ante/ °/il.':%rer WhTre" ■'^auT thi my name. I was tli: ushered u™al fli;"),* V" V'' '""■". through long corridors. t^Vl^Jthlf'^^ ^JiX""' "'"^ and^day..a.ineeskJrpla^^^^ ne\X°teli^'VtKt"l^:t!>fT '"'1 f-anseries. fromsueivast numbers bdng thrown ttXer i'' tW'-'*"" room IS verv lari>^o and fine i?'""" ^^ff^tfief-' Ihe dmiug. whieh a pari4 of eaTeless ,iee!,v P T?' .*".? '""? *""<■«• »' go through the listl^fnev rTdi„','''e&tent of" f'^" all IrisR , i^di 1 t very7ar^''te'''7l'''t'"-^"'*'-' "''' employed. As to the nXe bo™ ^^ SrirT"' "'"■' here s suffieiontiv mnrVed T „i ' i .'''""r™ce of manners in twangi„'g"offr;LSwordf wLv'nT V'^"' "'^""'f !!?1-T-. -.•"0"»>^»ting mrvoiee^i,rt:^re •''"vfS,.'":"'.^ .--B > aucnce ucaru o,i nli sides. However the nati7e Ameriean Jm Too ^:'i,,:5Sfrx,ir';"i',ri,i", "'r "r '■ «■""""•■ -" Ills Ulnricr »t tliBlioUU. '"' '" '""' """' '""1'1« 'Imc lo cm XEW YOHK—PEOPLE. 23 resembles an Eno-liahmnTi fi,^«o, :„ , . pecJiarity of dr^ and Sr^a": aboj ta' ^■'"''''<'"''"'- ""'l sarpent," wUich cauuot be mistaken plli ''?""« ''°«"t'T tiie Americans affect thiFrend,?;»^'*P''' "'J"'' observed, moment. They appeS''" beSded'ukeTe Zd "' ferf"' the beard on^f^J^^fZeZAVT *' '"■^^^ "' «'«« an imperial. ^ ™ "P "^ *''" <='""' surmount«d by Suckistbe appearance of the "liuninnf«,.»" » more " divine" By tliese tastele,, «.^fl i • i ' °°' rendered ti.e stranger neniv-lanled S ' T'"?^ presents itself to our own,^wiara 8m«k of the',P7''t'''"*.'J^««' *« ™ucli like hotel ,wells dress in tt gaves^UoL rT'', T^^'^" ^ho the ahop-windows for a bS,™™/^ „/i??''''^ '"''«"> '»*<> quiet cofours or simplicitv of mitn,? anything rather than To say anythingTbso&yTov'f^f wT^ TorkTV'^'^,: make a stranger desmiV T X„ii if ^^^ might we 1 objects which !wke tCe who fivT?r^m Tf ^*" ?. <■->' harities of languao-e dres^ nlTJI , Ijngland. Pecu- ..pon until tlifr^a™ become fZ^Tt"''^"'".^'^'' '1^™" fashions follow Lndon and plri,T? """ t"'*'""'- The in his waistcoat-poX" and 1^, ;„„ ^7 '"'"* ""^ '»« '^"t"!* hooked to his button tie I maf add tfXtt'^'i ""^ ^"y' that If America copies Young France a H.Tu.f ^^^ '"'<'• tlio beard, the older and bestlir^m ,® "^ *" "*« ""' of ahnost as closely Vw do not X"' ^i"" "^^ ""^ '^°' "^ toilet, perhaps.^ StilHlfU Jcnown toi;« 1 ^""^ "' *'*« tez:e%irse^,-;7 *""^™^» - -~"ttir but there irittefl'Seet^^^^^^^ .r spirit ZX^f^^^^^^^ yet i. only buiuC ll ?ei'|?>oftht"go f h^^^^^^^^^^^ ''"' "» The omnibuses were so tluck, at their cKe of ,if ^"^^^ threepence, that a continued chain of thpmS """''' "■• turning from all the avenues and „nwl T"^ «"J"¥ ""^ ■•"• into the cxt«,me subur^o e f", "mih.s'°oiS^ ^t *''^"- street-railroad opposite the Astor , .,1 ,.i j T"*^""" '"» stcr.ca.-s unon it,'^e^aeh dr^n 1 y fo. orst'^'rife^r """• of long saToon upon wheels, and were startinl^^7l ™ ""'"' wliprn. bu*^^ T T>^»«<^^ j_ * . V*.*" Btttrting i knew nof street to Ca„;>ar,U;r'Cy'skTrt t-^ T^T"^ "P ??°'^™- between the footway aiiillhe cnntrn ' n*"^™' "l'"" "'is rail •^o-a-hoad;' thinKs^"obstv:rt;ld,''';'r'thr''^''!'^ tol-sraph w,res, running up the .troets V; hiirpoK^.e ifi- V-' iilJIi! Hi;; Ml i i St NEW TOBK— BAELY EHEB8. passengers' lioads, crossing and ro-crossiiKr it T , the poll), too slender, on whinh tl,; ';r°"""? «■ I" one place loan, over the street Zna^k^^'d Zl7''Z"T'^''''^^^- «ojne down, and entangle a doz nomdguses " '""" ^^ of tUe tunbers^d £ms ZlTtil"- ^" ^ *^« 8""* ^^o true wood is in plenty Co Thll *'«'"' ^o^st'-uction. It is econonUsed as with us ThT^ t^^^^^ ^"^ iTf^ "<" "^""g everything tho Americans Hn i " T,' "'^ '">''' "o™% ia duraiility-inmotXe™ M- "^ • '^^'^?'"T "oonected with ings the/be™C house! on? ^'J"' .^''n*,''?'? newest build- most nolbie pil« semiSh^^ T'\ ""• i • ^''^'y Church is a dral. It has'rieh staTued ^itl u' "^ withm very like a eathe- «a almost Greek sSt^'t&S^S^ "Th^ ^'•"''' ^P'""'» uiKly handsome, as are ,.11 tl,„ . ■ ,"" 'P'" '» exceed- of tLso rise to an "eva ion o/S '""""f ''t'^ ^- S«*eral There are more tCahundred ., r.„^"".''''''f '"<' "% <"<""• deanrd&iSSLS'Cf • tfJr '^"^f,?-' -"^ "<> miration at tte simplicihr1,f tlf: d ^"-^ "^ T?" '3e«™eof ad- a whole r but it struS Z as too omhr' ^^ "f ^"^ «^'^''' «' dark J but the AincricrsLo «!,??„?;■ ^'^"^'^^ "^ Positively visible-in their hoteri^.rl nwi? l"*^ **"' '"-' "^ darkness- to read and write, or eat v^,?.]' """"f ? ^"^ "^ '""'dly Boe green shutters r>Cv,tCd ToThl'lIf "« «»«' ""^ churchyard, whfch is enibe hshed wi?!, fl. ''•"" *■?'«""« "-e w. ..ping willows, my attSn wl fi ^f"''>^">S shrubs and temb of GaptainUCe, WW, k ; ed^rth™ n °" f''* The monument and iuscrintion nl wi • j Chesapeake, particularly so. There is notl^inft h"" '^'^ *^'« ' "»deed, somctimes^>oticeabb hem h! ^'ff^ "?,'' o™«lone ; a fault Some few other r.ublio Inil 1,^ Y* ''''^'y * """^'o fellow! granite, the nLTXi aroX'^r %ades of solid street, of stately effect «3tN^T ,• ■ l-xchango in Wall- i. bmlt ontiroly^TgmiX with ™V ^Tr^' '? Centre-stre^, Btyie, the masiive £niuX7wU.hl'''''^''"*^^>fyP«'« a receptacle for evitdoerr ^ " ""' "^PP«>priato to tkSTuSdv'es^r'irsnn thZ ""'"""'-^ ^o--^^. «'« was already heardtn I^f s det 17/;;;;?' >" '''" f ""«"»/ to have censed all night. WhiS !« '', 'r ''7''^ "^""^y opening our shop wijidowa at lltu ' i %'"'o^- are only r„"J''r«^-,'-'''y i-nUld!td'';^^^^^ Pt'ople; tho iits of New Y 1 " — "" o«.«utv ui people infiabitai seven in we see a good In one place e suspended, ill some day BABS AND BABBBB'S SHOPS. 85 ■ larger scale le great size Btion. It is th not being I novelty in nected with >vyest build- Church is a ko a cathe- liole speaks 3 is exceed- 5. Sei^eral fifty feet. >f religious 3n, and no ?ree of ad- e effect as positively darkness- lardly see eir outer ering the fubs and ut on the Jsapeake. ; indeed, > J a fault fellow I of solid in Wall- e-street, 'ff^ptian )nuto to ■ins, are activity ioarcely fe only 'k, our ' seen, f Kew ofk, in a good P^^y^Lto^s^^^^^^^^^ or from nine till eleven tho;eakeZ^ ^'T'^ ^^ «^^ ^«^' and to do so. A variety of g^^^^^^ "tV^l^ ^^ ^^^^^i^ed 18 nothing aUowed to dr&tof waTf.*^ vf ^^^' ^^^ t^«^« ment, at exorbitant prices Tbn«r?^' without extra pay. would fancy all the Se worW teetofn? *^" ^^ ^^'>^^^ ables. of hundreds fn rows nofclifn?^^^""' V'^'' *^^®«« ^^ng ice; or, at rare interv^s a da«] 1^^- ''r'^5^ ^^* ^^^^^ and wine. Shorrv nort rTitv ^^^^^^^ individual ventures on «i"llings and^^^ThillTnt^ ;^^ Utl'T^^^' f ^^^^ aTe^? dollars) I Brandy rum Ld^lir^ ^^""'^ ^°^ two-and-a-half e.on tL commt''l?";Xianfc\^^ m tlie same wav our n„vff. i ?" *"" ™iskey. iJoer bottle. Hotel people a?eth^,r/! ?'? ,"' *^° ''"'"i-B' tZ Wie», ifany,al4^theTat oneendof^''''? iJ!'"' '"«"«' tl^«> an};tlimg but water °" "^ '^" *»''le. rarely toueli to eighteen dollare or £S l"' -K' ^^ '*«"'''» Wl came But the baehelormVof Ameri;'anT."V' " ^"S'" «omfo?t! oomfort of any sort, xt S "n,? h' """f '"'*'''"« ""^""t fp.tters.cUewe™,and8mokera 'ri,?,^ " '^^J'* ""<«> by i-ere for theuHe'of IsTmtTit mriht'L^Id'?,''^''"'"^-'''^™ a smaller room, and a sniaJI round^J»w ^ t^'.'''7 standing ; 1.0 pens or paper, « ?« wS :**'*'f^«»aU .nLtand, and 8or^ of offieeliM the dozJnToflfniSrl/r "*"• ^"«""'r desks, which run round to l,n i..„^ 1 ,■**"' VPe"'" fast to tory is chained to tSo derk-s^flll^'''''^' *^« "■'« *rec. ... one bed-room-quadruple bedd^' Jh" ""''' l"''^'"' f"""- nothing of, and who chaTe it n.at~ll^ ^ """y'"' ''"»«' durmg your pleasant *AW a v3in ' "V,^™,""^ "-clays you to be wary, and lock vou'r 11 P- "J"- '•"> ■!<«'• "arns Bible. I had not the pleCo of th , , ' '" "'""P'^ ™P0«- ance with the gents wIiT^l V"* "'?'" '•emote acquaant- fashionable, if /could l„d J? ^*'? •'"^"'' •"" «' -'"fbtraU ..ail-studded LnS S- fty„,f ™' ""■"«■'»» brass-bound, , The fast young kmcTic'ansan;'"^ w T ?'""»"*• resemble our gents, only that tW T ""P""'"' ""'' 'Md' assurance and take the "ei^ „tomli^r''fi:"T """"'*""'■'» .balls, and parties. Thn ^l.i " .l™^!""^""'"^:''^''™. ^noerts. ,H.atos'vS^lrwV2:\':d'M!;,"^i,,f "T.? '^y^ - 26 ^^s Hi! I FASHION OF r.EDlNG. the pure grit Americans Th^l • f "'?''^ ""««-' ^- -»^' ^fc -^e^- nt aoup oi aonie kmd — TnAr« liof «.„*^„- "■ *"" ^ •■""-* » {} 01 aoine kind—mere hot water vliCi "i Oil are sW at feeding, stiJI, don't trifle tarts nnd puddings vanishing ; they you see tlio| arc put on now, but the in propo] bigger ai This, i every coi astonishi] loads of i Broad-str garden, o luxurianc Jiave neit and even fruit and But throi others, bo is charget to suit th ahvays sea The bre and coffee, taste, very is not to bi I leave id has bushels 3old in Broad- it enthusiastic linating point ruck are backing out. The Comfort op the ho'^kls. 27 columns, and ibule, always their owners i enfilade the three deep, idway belles, ith a pleased n as thread There are an ced up with ased by the it put on my elusions. New York, in shares, as ited States j a head man company of r expectant 'ing covered] wu his dishi Bs or scme-j 3ther tinkle ngry cattle )8o who fee hav( ? fori owl, is cutl ime endof L vain you I you some- c. At last,| -they onlyj jder comes ^ou'd like? one after ere's none( get down;! ""■-4 a Viid n see tliol v, hut thcl dessert has been en from th^ ^^rsr .V. .u^ivu It Biiow along the middle of +i.« *™i.i ^^ ^* common miserablefruit to be foun^ fn f i ^^H^^^-the mo^t munch an apple: no the whnliT~i ? *^^ market-you m.y out. You are thrkst n^an n/r^^ ^^' ^^^^^' ^^ cleared to the waiters, .oX'l Trfe/^i^f ^^ ^ ---- They affect, now a-Xys to Ziow ",?^^^^«^' t^J^^ in Paris. having nothing to heirvnn J!ii 7 *H ^.""^^^^ ^^^^^i^n, of till cold, and fut up tero.fhf*''''' ^*. ^^'''' *^^^'' <^'^^^^'^ hke it o^ not. But eVen thi«?/ ^?i ^"^ .?<^' ^^^^^^r you twenty or thirty peoXt tab f TC f'lf"^! i^^ranceV the American hotels T II «f' f - ^''''^}'^ two hundreds at p, it is wo.se'SpolrncZ?rSf: 'jLd 7^' r^' Leisure converse, wine at dessert-pooh ' ^arataria. English wav. XnX wr even^^^^^^^ '""^t '\^l^ -^'"^^ ^^^ yourself, tilf tha dessert came on ^n^ T *^' *^^^" *^ ^^^P so evidently in a hur^y to^^g^t rid of you 'X^*' ^''' ""'' not rare nor stinted as now bb^^ijf * -^^M^^^'^^ ^^ere oysters, plums, melons, &c ' were tn 'w ^P""'' P"^'^^«' rarely see them. The tklX« „ftl + i P^^^^s^on^ now you more mean; ot periiap the ^^^^^^^^^^^ and finery, and are dividend. From X£ver P ' .r^^i^^^T "^^^^ ^^^^^e a less in proportion as the^Te gone on l Jd^T^r-^^ ^^"? ^^^ big^'er and bigger. ^ buildmg then- great hotels everi^'icj^eii^^^ STft ev^ "T^f « ^^^ ^^--^e; aston'ishing pro/usiS? feV^^^^^^^^ ^ prices, and in loads of things at the ertJ n,n^rW= w '"i -^^^ ^^«?« ^^d Broad.street,^and othefs I fnl ' f^fr^^^^^^^on, J^ulton, garden, or Leadenha are nothff.ffo fh ""^^'^ of-Covent-' luxuriance, not that thev P«n 1^^ "? '"^ ^^^ent or the Jiave neither so many nor 'uch n *^ *^^F™' ^^^ ^'« and everything ^ de^ar a.ahi f T '*^' ""^'^ ^'^ ^^'^^^^^ fruit and flowers with usTntT^l ''."^^ ^'^'"^'P^ ^^^^ ^«re8 But throughout Imerica ttir ^.1 ""^^"^^^^?t Prices, others, board by theVear it ttsel^^^^^^ ""^ists, and is charged to travellerr thence ffl.f^ti^ ^^^^ to suit their smaller naVment^ 1 n ^^V^'^ *?^^^« ^« bad, ahvays seated aT them.^^ ' ^ ^^'^ ^^"" ^he great body Ihe breakfasts nm a ai.«j.. i._ii -, and coffee, made infirVatTn'i'nnf w''?^' excepting the tea taste, verv much alik^^in le d a I7e'n t "' ""ff' ""'^ "^ *" IS not to be had unless iu\li ' ^ "^ *'"P ^^ t*^^' or coffee T lenvo f lin f ni • 1- P^^^"*^ apartments u]).stairs -^ i^a.e tho table m disgust, and up interminable fl^^^^^^^^ of ! .. ,1 - J ■ 28 im i OrSTEE CELlABfl. my wiudo^, or liole in tL ^L ■ "■ ,^^ ci-awling out at four feet deep, I emi^rZl inT*";' "•'"''''' *•>" '•«'^. about . what's goin/iu inXSdwaSv T Jh' 'Jfli'T.^ -" Bowery-stroet bpvnn,! ^ "^^ oeWn, in the "Park," and I.e^ are maSnTiilrtotnh&tr'V?.?*, '* *^'^'' of firemen and volunteers are aomp nP t? ^'"'^'' .''T'ga'lM the Jerseys or Philadolirin tl ?>• , ''" "" " ^i^it from to show tLmaoE e r LnT"'?« ^^ 'f '" companies and m-d by the New York ?1 ""'.f"™^ ' t'^ey are received favourite reirt afe the r rnvr"'*-''- ^^amaney Hall is a grand occasions these voin^Tf '"^', f""""' "^ "iay. On set in each eity) sathor CaSefs Z?" ^^^Zf^' *'"^, ''»^''-''<'"' along, from thi hands of thSr 4^1'*'' ^ '^% '""'"'' from one city to another X /wfl' and parade them or expense, and "din't ei W^f""' "?"»'!, either time day paased in treating eacfottr^t ."'"'■;"«/ *''« ^'*oIo iiotef bars. ^ """''^ »' <=«'"tam stands or favourite " Barrs''sC,:.'^?'',,&- a^^'-t^?"^! *"?-''" -« aomo part of their cWk, I. T^^ H "'^ '"^aux, gettino- );igi> 4 this luxury of bet/l' ?"•' ^'^f "'r^es are verj Every hotel has its Lber's Zn t^L^ T w** •^'''^'"'''^ "^^air. and a bowling-saloon in iL\^ attached to it near the bar; some few «Sa«"«ras thev !T* *°°- ^T'"^'-^ are, I find places for dining or snppinnro 1« f' ''"'..""'' ''''''»""'« tliem fitted out verv lK„T„ "Pter-ceUars ; some of reces3withcurtairfnfZt^f,''''f'^'T-fy' ""^^ 'aWein a Thoy charged S for 1 ^''f' "P ''''« ^'"dow curtains stuij^ very-and vet tL "%°^'''''''-'.'"^l' ^ "ailed for-poor the bay, a^nd Infs taten "laknT'.' "f "^''T ?''"='^* <^»w" the Jerseva, is quite ni^TeUous'.mltf':.'" ^"^^'' 4,»>''»y. « have it, Well.lLu-ehtarrlnfr-^'l ' 1- " "aution," as they tlio devil cooks ; neve/w,^* inore'?n; '"f "' «''°'' '^^S'- ""^ than Imerica, from NiaJr? o ^r» n ? '^^ ''"^"''"y ^^^'y a matter of ta^te P but X^i,, „ ?&""' I O'" '^ '' only I only caught fou^ oysters ifterS' ^T "^ T'^^""-"'"' expected I'd make TcaJl'at tL T ?'""*';■ ^ '""' " ^''as «y exit ; I am sure th^y „w I was ti oTd^f T "' ^ """•" ife^gaa in these ^los/eouj T^^^^f t^^'^^ ^;^V;r^^[ tlie^ro'^lsfcr'^^^^^^^^ f ^«'"el?B in Broadway, and •my, or the StZr a^ LTatr ""ri'.f r^'""' i-^ J^^'''ea- ours ; the 'bussed odd iokiLZ^f /l"^^ ''''^'■•'''"" f™"" Portable fiaa ourar'^Xt^.:' t"o't TVeS^ ^e to Long Islani JiUdson o« T^- palaces, and at to and from tli, ovvn shores or going ships to their numbers »0 chamber. '> coiled up lin^ out at poof, about ition to see *ark," and corps, and ds at their e brigades visit from companies e received Hall is a lay. On lare-dovil *y march ade them her time le whole ravourite —all are getting ire very s chair. ;he bar ; . I find, ivourite lome of j'e in a irtains. ' — poor t down boy, iu IS they ?s, and surely it only water, it was made pent ! ivery- 2r> I TEEATMENT OF SOESEs. ^ Ispoken Hndly to, aXoYrt tt^nitV^^y.^^ "^^^fo?,' I (frays, hact-carriaeea— •«»=?! '"^^'^'^or'ted in the r waeffons ,are painted in A^ng coW ''^VX^'^'- P^'^S with landscapes and figures 'somrtll''''./.^'^'"^ grounds, itaste ,s nothing; one Srgets tT thP' ""'i' '^°?<'-"'« ^ contriTance to hare no conducto™ «n^ "'^"^ ^'^'^- Tie covered by shipping; steSm^., 'l ?' t^'" I'-'lisades, down or going «Ywai Me ti theT' '*°°°^". coming [State, of which it is the great It^rv T^''-^^'^, of this raat J waters hes Jersey City, wd Bnh„7" f '^"'"^ t''" eparMing the Jersey shore; fe^-boatV,,^ ?' i"'".™''^' above it of minutes. Tie latter^a^e tie ofl " ''''*, ^^ "^^^T ^^ hare for anything li];e a romanL.^ ""? *''« New Yorkerl The state of Jersey, byX"av I ""''^ 7*"' "'' " 8"«day! poor and primitive to Xslvy'^^"^ "^ ^arge city, is vefy We flat, convenient for the^Veatw''"v*<',''^^''W'«^ I le phmns to whirl across on the two S^T ^'^^"^ ""-J «"'«- ,re%ious state ; the worn°?„t fald'^?,' ''f '''""'s !-a quiet. !Te, Indian corn, pn ,pki„"' iTdjfr„l^ ^"Y? P^ ^^cs [its camp-meetings 'I'L Jersl i- "■' ™^ '» famous for are their cows and dairies . h>TZ »*^?r "« excellent; so at Princetown andTm t illf^HV ''• *''° State (eoUe'e !go.ahead neighbourst^nd 77^t J^^'? ^^'"^ *»'» "^^^^ In all American cities i Lr? „ ""*' ^ S°C8S 1" ,cvery-daj character of t^TOS°f ™oets with the same aa among ourselves, only ^th '"o 'ol^S^''"''"*'' a>"l ^'ays! ,d.flca.on, sometimes & somSf™ '''^ ''°°'^'^''™'' * mo- i'J3ut the one tiling here au^VTtt"^^^ '^'"^'> tlian our own clamis our unquiified IdrnWi!^ their sea-board cities, which vessels of eWiy possible va^^t^l^^ *^'^f ijj' and fioat/ng Iperfect m their way. ThT^M !, "9^"^ •'eautiful and their speed, their eveiythin"^ ""* """■• "'«^<*. their sails. I -tnc waters are covprftH \,r ^i • I'-ninginall directlonrSv^"?'^' W steamers, Hute ^!?'5?.<'.- *"« othcrl!^^ite ?„ir e^ » -.- pa'ac^andTa^^ed'-btond'a^ro^l' '^'^^'^ ^^ ^^ to and from the AtWic Se m-ef/ ^'™ "' *'^'' ^'orfd i ^huf »« shores or toEuro, eiohfniwf ",'*"'""«'•«• ^»4 the"r gO'Pff ships to increased siieani " ^^t,q»alities of sea! m do l'!!ll CROTON WATEBW0EK8. ■f ■% ■iii ■•I.' and the wharves are alive with them ; and the stir, the crowds riled^Sr'^ l°i^' ""^ '"'?^' ■'f merchandise Cevt our docks Vrp tl Z^"- ?,"^ !"*y>. """i «" ^^J^a^es. «nd our aocts, are sleepy and idle in the comparison TH, swarmmg scene borders the city, on both side"Z two mile areds , on the Hudson side the steamers mostf but both side. imi, that the schooners, sloops, smacks, fishiiie-boats Ac nan often hardly find room to note their noses if . The dL o„ both sides, towards the iattery, are reserved for mssaL"? steamers, =nd ferrv ditto, canal iats, and costing eraft 1 a C^nf *" ' n *% t»g-»to»mers, start up the Hudson witl Albanvtwf «"''*? ^^i*" ^'■- '*« " "^^^ '"'^ "hickens^foj AiDany, where they take the Erie canal. woSd-wouHtft^T"!:'' m"""' '' """'"'"fr ''■''^''d of all the fl„„.- Tu- ** ■'■ """'<* «*y' except England. In theit lence°C"?fV°' ^ I "T^V-es of capacity and exc^l Poa^^^cfs^ry^^^^^^^^^^ tetn"^te(t™ °^''^" tl^ous^and^SfS^n", Anoth^ great object of pride to tlie New Yorkers U ihn\v fnto?L^''r'''V^ stupendous underrakin^i-^C^^^ mto the city from a distance of forty miles north, over vE' and rivers, and giving a supply far beyond theirVelent S ?( *\\P>'''^'* yr?? '''^^^^' and commanding a^levThTZ work f n?nJf "'* i'^^? ^^?'^^^' '• ^^^ 1^^^« ^otlifng Is a sfnl ness onts TpIiiV^ '^' '^*^'' in magnitude or in iSe compS TTnw i ,f f ll^^<^e~one can but envy, and admire. HowweU have our "cousins" treated this much vevorl water subject, and so much better and wiser tW^actthl^^^^^^ and yft tle^™w ' ^"" eight hundred thousand inhabl^^nr^ ana yet the supply is equal to four or five times the demand I Will linger a moment on this noble public unSaWwS works, as it commences at the river of that name with mi a(]iueduct from the reservoir in West Che7tei Tounlv fiw mdes from the Hudson river. The bank of the reservol; daL S !??r„!„^!'^J_^ ^^ .«,<^^^? and cement. This dam collects l S'calcXtpd Wn^'J'"' ^r^S'^T^"^ ^^"^ hundred acres, vervimrew^^^^^^^ ^1 ^.''^^'"^ millions of gallons of throuSh rnnt ^'^ aqueduct IS continued by tunnelhng through rocks, and carrying it on by embaukmouts over Avas cone up^vards. arched o nine at t] lias a dej 'home res the grand a himdrec veyed to i |hy means [is constru 'h]\di. Th Igi'ound to water shoe |a crack or jetties, wh: wo hundr( •otli sides ( How ma he streets; io, too, thei md good ( ent, so nc joor dumb liorses are b •iir breed c ■easing lash worses and | -to humani little to chec •u the contr{ universal g0( leratelyj an( bcility of ti imravelled hy ^re the ownei ?0od rf»cr«]of^ itii O' throui Inven ^ 'hings, as wit] 'laughter-houi I loui^e ab c, the crowds, dise for over sands of carts which gives he commerce fvharves, and irison. This )r two miles; bips by hun. it both sides very slip, so •ats, &c., can T\e slips on for passage ig craft. It ludson witli hickens, for i of all the • In their '■ and excel- s to all her oast of twoj les! But of ers is their ! — brought) rer valleys sent wants rel higher as a single complete e. ich vexed 't than we habitants, ? demand. ng, which >n Water* , with an nt^, five •voir dam and forty collects a ed acres, gallons of mnelhng uts over WATER TO THE CHUHCH STEEPLES. gj l^r;nrjhir?y!t^^^^^ rneiitioned. The Harlem^'tr.!^ *^^^'f ^^ reservoir above bridge of stone, largSTha; iyhe;7tt^^ fourteen hundred and fiftx f^^f i '1'? ^^^"^on bridges, or ,and fifty feet spa^ anfa hundl^^^^ high-water marl Before the if^/'''^ ^^""^""^ ^'^^ above was conducted across the river in ^^'^ "^^^ .^''^^*^^ t^e w^ter .upwards. The aqueducM built .f ^''^V'-^? P^P^' ^^^^^ve 'arched ov.. and Lder«/^ht w f^^^^^^ '^"^^^*' .nmeatthe bottom, anrseVenttfir •'''^' ^''^^' '''^ ^^^^ las a descent of thirteen LeherLfa'S:^;' '' '^%''^' ^' home reservoir at New York is intf^if " . ^ -Pf ^^^- The the grand receiver, and covcts th^i" 1 t'T"'^^^ t^^'^^ ^^^"^ la himdred and fifty millions of l.uT^ ^^""^f * ^* "^^^ ^old ,veyed to a third or^disSti/gSrW j^^^ ^^^^? ^' ^« ^«^- [by means of iron pipes. This holdf f 1^; '^'^'^.tr'^ff ^""^^ acres, IIS constructed of stone iid eemenf .n^^-"''5^^^'«^^^l««« J'u^di This distribution i^ by L^rL?«V-/f*^^;^^^^^ f««t |gi'ound to be affected by frosts wL^Th' Y *^^ ^^^P ^^ t^^e water shoots out with proS Jforce 'q^^^^ T ^"^^^^ ^^« a cTack or joint in an iron T^pe on onl -?^J' ^^'^^^^^ ^on* etties,whrch branch striihi ou? on Wl *^ • i'^^ ^^ ^^^ad two hundred yards into thltlil ^"^.^"^^^ sides of the city )oth sides of ^hich ^s'oLl^r^^^^^ 'n t' -dcTt How many tJiinjTs T <,pp t° „V 'aaoed, as I have said. 1- streets; LirCedTf^nTe^ttyZ'C^ '^"' T ^ ^-^^ 10, too, their liorses all 'hTj^i j^™®' """^ much prized- '»d good conditk.n'und^Ietonr"^" *^'t !'««» «Wes uent so new to any man cominTfrnt ?f^''°'' gentle treat- joor dumb brutes oV every spSlCt"* P"«»tory to our liorses are brutally tormenteI?nnn7f' 1°° ' '^''^''e o"' Poor »iir .breed of asses XfncUed di3 ""'^i^sos and killed, and ■easing lash and goSof ourkwf tf"^'^ ™t' ^^^ never- .orses and .government post^oiE^Wtf?- ?-^«" "" <"«''■ ,.-to humanity. The efforts n?7> w ' ^^ " disgrace to us me to checlf the nn^Ci brSi^T"'' ^'4^ <'° ^'«^ m.the contrarv, where there is no ellfl "f ^IfP'^- ^e™. universal good feelin.. to feed t-n „^7 '''"'?''',*''<^™ seems a erately; Snd they are reSlvn,?'^ "'"''■''*¥''•'''''"« "no- !o«lityof the poor bea^fa RoZ„/,i?'"'^*«ed activity and 'mravelled by tlfe fact Cthe g'^eafbodv of Tl°^". P'""^"" '» iriVen th=\,r:C^'='t Pr™°i °/^""'"" "i-ep being ungs a. witLs tfotthVretf oil f"' * '''^'■'' P^^ ilaughter-houses. ' ^"'^ ""^ ^famous cellars and iW^e about the .Z^.. at the watex-side sometimes, and i ■%'% ;vF" 32 GOOD TKINGS WASTED. ..II •;i! i,.i' fil;K, ! i W nlnVi^"'''? ''"''*'?g ^bout the wharres, in the shape of Sf .^TI^P?' 'T' P''"""' °f '^"o-J, empty barrels, none so the «^t^f S.T'^^jr *^'?' '^J"'"*!' *''™^» ^'^ i'^m into i, nnf tnv,; *°?* ^°''^^ keeping for manure. Yet New Yorl n ^r frZ 'tt?r ' °%^ t. '"r'-Sf «> poorly-drJed and tLl£'il™i*^®" ""^ fault-dram-drinting, perhaps, yet thoy fly at higher game-are never hungry. %ere is a t™» of saucy careressness about them, a breaM in ther^ys and means, which sets one to thinking on the oyeraowiT'nf t^„ suwly of creature comforts in thif new W ^ °^ ^^ notC^ !&"?"' •?»^*te shores yielded comparatiyely from tte W ^'g°'fi?d all the Bed Indians coufd produce fSts-a W S a'"' ^^^'^Vrec^^ouB chase in thei? dense river. ~^ '"""'y '"PPly ''"^^ fr<"° the sea or rac^".''?!,'^ 1^1'''*°"°?™? "'""?« ''}' «>« advent of the EngM wood's and wilds''''tt''^ ""^ I °^' "" *'"'? g"''"''' ^''^^S^- =S „;n- ',' *"? a"''"' ""oan and solemn silent rivera sweeping onward and unknown, sterile to the ser AU thk abm t w' '■''?'""^""f • "/'^ enchantment, SybroSt about by a wise freedom of action, inspiriting each mSm of a great community ; unshackled by the chffi preiudS' wM^l^r^'- '"''* ignorances of feu/al EiSSpe Know Sd abtrdTtierwf f ^^''^'^P' ™'^ r''*^^ freedom from ^f^,^. • ,' ^^ "" "o* "•""•i on w th the inteUieent stem of our cousins here ; we are behind-hand in a hunSTsseS things. We have a better taste, a higher 1™ for Z fet a more sensitive mid refined feeUng, a wXen'reedint • ffi a h ^zL^i^^zzr^rj ted ^loiii^^trL™s^^^ ^};tn|fn^ehTi:^xtnVrSer-d Slips ot the Hudson, or west side, including the stSf n? irirdlXectfon^'n ^7 "" ^V4 tie quays^nd^'slTprS iU(3 m ail airections in the cie incessant work of lonr^^TlfT nnrli steamers and ships lying m tiers, and everything is admn-able, The n( ones. build, arran^ wliat c trivanc Isaac J gildinq- near he turned > long, a steam-b swiftnet greater They numero! as w'ell I stcam-pi solid lea spirted s not parti said to 1 but at tb Albany, coast, stf light dec far beyor or twenti from the" beautiful side. 1 1 of the nu: purpose, ■ horses, ca fifteen ni To Hobol village, fo to Jersey still not s( corn," bei Philadelpl Hoboke rural stro! cutting up in avenue's as yet, the; tlie niuddj knee deep ■ the shape of bIs, none so le leaves u^ I heaps into i New York dressed and ie]*hap8, yet 're is a tone ir ways and iving of the nparatively lid produce their dense the sea lie Englifllii age, sterile [ ent rivers, j . All this, ly brought individual liven now,! )dom froinl fent steps! essentia]! r the few;! ding; butl lide-boundl Jgusted byl ow it, and! anything,] attend tol be said' tol he streetsi 3r — whiclil id twenty! agnificentl trands orl 3d and ill-F Loles, and! one-lioroCi lips, tearj iding andj ranges dmirablej BEAITIT AND SIZE OF STEAMBOATS. gg oneirt^'afe''^^^^^^ the sea-going ^>uild, their vast size ardeapSHh —'J' *^f"' «-^1uisitS arrangements ar^ nuiL iSci^Vabl^^ ^'^'''^' ^'^'^ what one equally admires Zl ihnl i\^ a European; but trivances to Strengthen thPs^nL H"^ and scientific con- I«aac J^ewton, hTc^htTGZ^'^''''' ^^'''''' ^ere lies the gilding most pWuseTncTextX^^^^^ '^ ^'^P"^«^' ''^^ near her lies the New World IS i^f "'^^'^ «^on ; but turned out from their pSc buildili' ^^^'5 ^^^*' *^^^ ^^^ last long, and wide in prC^^on.^^^^^^^ steam-boats so narrows^, we pir^^VLLIir^^^ to make swiftness and safety Ues in t W IJ ,^^'^t«g tliem ; their greater buoyancy. -^ "^^ '^ ^^«" l'--. r^e-aTj^t tret: York th^n"!.,"^ V'' ^^'^"^ ^ *•'« ^os**™ face of New my pace barV W +1.1 i ^i— «<> J-, turned and quickened oottuges, and villas, and imrHens thonA / f '^ ^ Cottage faced Hobiken rWf«^? ' i,^^' neglected. Otto but even here m) m^dln. ^?' ^"^^^^^ P^^^^^ ^^^ tasty ; -,..^ ^1- _. i , " season j nobody cares, or thmlra ^p +u^^ __ j lersev nierchonts ; oil- tlie ilowe farmers, but toniali New rs are m the -orkers, Broadway, bank made ers, up den, not a ird brick; '' too late ! primitive tnere is a acing the way leads le smaller the water- the north n the line levelling stone got te, on the mooth by ;ered this the lower msing as strollers, nt-juleps *alisades, 3ountless of New wrinkling showed 8 of the »ave me 3auty of 'egan to ver-side shape of ry, witli ickened d a fine has its . Otto tasty ; cquisite as to a thing; I I see BBOOKLYN, LONG ISLAND. g. into precise bouquets, French fashmn + i n new smger and lioness who Wid^nfir^^'' ^? Aung at every . The svveet spot I had left Sid me' -""^"'^ ^''^' side wood, juts out iatothestr"anat'tr ^'''^^-'^^ ^^*«^- o< view up and down the river fL'iP'^'^^^^^^ange i«mSf:i"witrbalrb?L'ri.^rd'ir v''^ p-™-t out at tlie store doorX „™ of 1 "" '"'','' offing,, put oadmg-tiU I get to the Ea, mZfv "' ''""""K ""'^ S"" Broadvray, and crossing the B'ttfw „ P' ' T «»i°S down luto one of the mauv f„r,.„ ■""^'^y-STOTe and green, I uet Long Island; llZiJ^^Z^rtlV ^"°''^-» City'oa Ne«' York may be a mUe ^ tZ fl, ' "''"""'« ^''"l' of faro to the Jerseys is sixc'el I thtl T""*^"^' P"'- The mdeed some bo^ts rn^at ono eSilV' '' ^'^°<'^"'^ = Long Island railroad ones take Z. 1 P^""^^' """J the- Long Islaid side, and'to^threi'Mv"'"'? " «""''« disdams to be anv lnnrrn« • ^ ^* VVilIiamsburff. whinli that this Eastotf:;rdb~4?'r;-^ -5i«s' * and coasters and shipping, so thiek Th.f-f '^'""^■"''"""'^■•s. dever address to keep dear of »; i.>" requires all thei^ Brooklyn go up-hill at on", lots !^f""""i The streets of you anywhere ind evorywher; hk„ i^f'T' P'^ *" take ™y- I got in one, coin Jtwo i *1 *""" ^''"'hors in Broad- yard and'^Soaman'sa^K&rto Will"''? ''^ t""" ^ary. i have said, faces the extreme nortl.™?''"''« ■ ^hieh, is "h.pping on the East K v^wharv'^, of N v''f"P'' «'"1 too, the merchants have their co,mtr„i ^""'^''"•t- Hero, Citizens live here, as hoiiso rentT 7"''°""=''' ""'I loss rich ;• ty its -If. Xaxe^^re It but J'J* '° ''"■?"'"« »« i" tho Kl-as of extravagance in^ihe™''^"™ ''""" '"'y»'«i our iork-they are a ra,Mo„! " *^'"" '<""•'"« 'f-ets of New ^.ip Ltep^aSdleLrt: 5f «/"/ '""-"«'"« ic, the effect not good. Tt hi' ;„ ATj '¥''.'•• ?.torehouses. Wrcelled out by lonir ran,r"«7 Af " ^"i"" "' "laUoiv waters ,'.'■'«;"». &c., as 4 asVdHansburJ!"^"''' f'^' J""*"' I'-rty acres. As wo rode a one wo LI' „ irr "'•^"<' '•""»" |Amor.ca, bad roads and \rdlC:s!' t itf S."™ 36 NEWSPAPER BOYS. III I '•H, :;::i! some of wliich aomo of our smartly dressed younfr ladies cot out— tliey had been over to tlie Empire City shopping' or paying visits ; for there is a great deal of visitinc^ of a raoruing (eleven and twelve o'clock) among Americmriadies The gentlemen are all too busy at their stores, or on 'Change or at their ships ^ * We pass the Naval Asylum, a noble building, and standing Ligh—this shore is everywhere greatly elevated, rising at once from the water's edge, overlooking New York. WilUama- burg is quite a new creation, and going ahead beyond all precedent, even here ! I got down at a tavern stand, and as there was nothing beyond a long, 8traggling,>adly macadam- ized street to see (some of the houses very good), I started back from tlie n(^xt steam wharf, by way of looking doAvn- wards on this crowded scene of floating activity ; even our Thames sinks in the comparison, if one excepts the packing of our colliers and barges in the Pool. I forgot the Green- wood Cemetery, on Long Island, of two hundred acres in extent, to accommodate the great Empire City opposite as well as themselves ; indeed, all these cities on this south end of Long Island, aro -reatod hj the wealth and overflowing population of New Tork, for Long Island itself has nothin.r but a few vdlages and its farming people ;— indeed, for a lon^r track of its centre it is still a wilderness, only now gettin" chalked out in lots, and selling in twenty-five dollar shares by sections ; tickets are in the mi'rket like' railway shares. Thougji newspapers are quite a drug, and by rooms-full, from every town m the Union, yet is it very essential to buy your own paper of a morning— all the hotels have their little barefooted Pats in rags, with bundles of the Herald, and one or two cent i' ipers for sale. They are, in fact, part of the lobby or entrance establishment of all the hotels— and funny imas they are, in a transition state, casting their tadpole tails, of sleepy, stupid ignorance, imported from the Emerald Isle, aiid running like iun on their newly-acquired go-ahead legs ! Their wits extra-sharpened, and fast losing their brogue. •'Fait, it's little mudder or daddy cares what I does, it's not the likes of them as will mind me. Her' s for a cent— liere's for two— v\ hich'll yer have ! Mind that chap, sir ; he'd steal the teeth out o' your head, he, he, he !" This, as they rush to you, if you make a sign to buy. They work in gangs, And beset the publishers on their own account, as our boys do our oflices on their master's account. Thus are they ^. — vj.^ii -„-TTii ivoOuiCcs, auu aru OS euro &s possums. Meantime their relations, fathers, mothers, sisters, are for a long time worse off' than at home ; the town is filled by dirty ragged objects from the mother country, as miserable, as wreti hungry, go on, in slums ai going to ever dre without general d nobody \ activity. The sc] and Gerr and as so( fow dollai start on tl No wondi expensive attempt it or mulattc clean kuiv any how. houses is h iii Loudon^ a^ a sculli tiien, they' Mrs. Jones door, and ^ flnely furni handsome. Prom all sution, the . of wit, in 8 not run aw articles of t ^''"gland ; o f'tcJi other, certainly on *^I>Iondi(i, lik( III th(»ir prir J^iill, who, (] ^veeping at tl Jiolhing in t ^'nglisli and <'"C' thing till i"("ssion, very no\> ever, poor nilSH SEliVANT GIIiLS. gy KO on, ia druuktii idleness S^/?' fevv cen s. Thus they slums and alleys, Was' fn H^ *"? "^"''^ '" ''" ^^<> "j"* going to the backioods o fii^ZT' ? ^""J™- ^s to ever dreams of euel. a tM ., 7^*- ' "" ""^ "> « Imndred without a dollar aU"!;,, 'if '• ^'f-\R-"'>-ally land general demand for Cour -^even id 7or^l S?^'"'"'""^ "' "'O nobody .dl work, e.eept Ct:l^^tl^^;^ »nd as soon as a little t^nSj." '^''^^ *% "»''«' of it ' fe«- dollars H,ey set to a /i'T? '''^"'""' '■'«y'^« ««' >n«i tt »t;.rt on their own aoeount H,; ""t' °\*°, «"' """■"«<•• »"' '"-™''""- """I' attempt it. evin in theXst l,o,?l ™""v ^\ *" '''y'"' ''""^ or mulatto footmen, who drive t„l """ • '^'"*" ^"■^' "'--•-'"• efcan knives, arc their niMteii^ vol , ''""a?"' "ait at table, any how. Often at ^7^ i*""' *'"• ''° »J' <'"'«"'• jobs )>onses is larger than ou™ ifT" ^'"'T ^"'^ ^"^'1" <>f ho ; i« London) you rin" an ir ., T?"?' '"'"" "^ »" West-end a» a seullion; you'Jc f„r . "^^ ':°""'^ *<> ♦''« ''»«"•. dirtv tlien. they'll be in We • /T*"'"" <"■ distress. " Qlf door, and you walk into •> »;,rf i i ^ "?''"*' ''«' par our- i"eiy furafshed. All "he ifet'"''''-''?-^"'''''' apartn.ent, liandsome. "" "^' appouitmcuta arc good and »a&f lmtL™!J :r»,2Vf "■•' "' P.--'"' ■">'' ■■" ^•<">ver. of wit. in a refaS sen ' T,''™ "" ''''■^ "f '"'"<'»'•. nor >'0t run away M-hhh7Z\i.} 1 "", S""'' reo^oners, , l,en "ftieles of tl eir ournan T "r'' f''""' *"" ^1"' ^-I'io" Kiigland; of theii tenthousair. "''''■'''n'"''' "» ™l'Plied by laeh other, and store advl? ' ^''f" "" ""■'• "'ore copies of I cerlai.dy origl, U .I'.^h ""i'!"'"':'; ' ' ?"""' "^ « '"* are I '" 'I'oir print sho-,s 1 Cn ^ '"]\tU'y even fjo-nheail of us. "wpiiig at the snecess of il„? ,"?""»" "f * '« last eentury, is ";"''".{? i.. the shir ■ tn ■v';i,7o^",r'"?- ""^ ""»»'■"" 'lolhing „, the shape of en.miv'inir',^;";!'"'?' •""'I' "»o »ee« ^^., ^"^ J JiiJi;u Known i^i/.f..««„ _- 1 1-,, -' ^""'^i^i' y-ao iii,„^ they vxcol in'hh^ir'' '""" ^'^"^Knipiis. The "liole race \n/dniucTrootv 0.1 VTr'^ «lio,,.^vilKlo^r. Tho P'VHsioii, very fun,,; f .n V ' ''''^^' *" '*'''^''''<^y «*' «<>ur oy- f'^wever poor ugV ^''' "^'"l' ^"^'«' *^t a doilar or two, ure, f c*. £" rwT mi __A 38 THEATllES, THE DEAMA. :'Mii 11.. ..'I ^ew York is the head-quarters of the French ; their fashions and i licir jewellery bear away the palm. There are a L^reat Gem Liaus, too many an • 1 ^ i.- 1 1 ^"^ .'^ ^^ spoken a good deal ; but except in L imletatigable smoking, they are not much imitated. Inere are not a great mtoy negroes about ; one sees more mulattoes. men and women, but seldom better off or better dressed than the slaves in the south ; indeed, nothing but the lowest menial occupations are left open to them, except shop- ifeepmg, m which they never rise higher than hucksters, greengrocers, oyster-sellers, and slioe-blacks. Sometimes tney drive a cart or a carriage, but the^ make bad masters of Jiorses, or of any of the poor dumb creation— partly from cruelty, partlj from laziness. As yet, I have only been to one of the theatres— Burton's, Deliind the btato House; where I saw "As You Like It" better played than at any theatre in London. To be sure, all tlie actors m America are English, with very few excep- tions ; but all ours come here first or last ; either to star it, or to change their fortunes. The Park Theatre, the Bowery, JN iblo 8, and Barnum's Museum, opposite the Astor, together witli various' halls and concert-rooms, form the great points of the evenings amusements. They talk of building an immense Opera-house. * I have aUuded to the larger scale of their houses and shops compared with ours; but some of the stores and buildings are gigantic— seven and eight stories high, with from sixty to a hundred windows on a side. Stewart's marble store on the iiroadway IS most magnificent -, it is the Howell and James's ot New York, but is infinitely finer and larger, the whole exterior ot marble. Indeed, everywhere, as to marble and granite lacings, pillars, pilasters, cornices, jambs, sHls, door- posts, steps, there IS an amazing richness in all the principal streets, and the brickwork of their houses of an inimitable neatness and strength, far beyond our buildings of late years m l^ondon. We have nothing to compare to it, except some of our old houses, such as Lord , in the corner of Hanover- square, and a few others we point to now as curiosities in brickwork. CHAPTEE IV. PlIILADELrniA AND ITS ENVIRONS. STEAMKHS AND RAILWAYS— THK JERSEYS— FACE OF THE CX)UNTRY. Thebe is a close connexion between New York, Jersey, and Philadelphia— the Jerseys supplying the connecting link, as I have said, irom New York there are two railway and Jersey Ci being in 1 instant tl label, and arrangem tliroughoi hand the ; room for chair in tl be of lar^ are fixed about two car, about ductor, w length of goes out a the next al break-whe entrance t the side. But to t rapid river ton, comes the capital svlvania si( lacony, wl or eight mi the rival lii dinner or b distance al explain tha home or do] City;" Bos Baltimore, Orleans, "( ■ixi tile 1 wooden brie purpose? bj ALmericans ] tions or sel mmcnso CEOSSmo THE JEB8ET3. 39 steam-boat routes to Philadelphia. I think thp n,n<,f • , resting one la bv Bteainpi- fl«w.,ti 1, fl ™^ most inte- between StaterislanSd ^1x5 ''T' ""'°"«J' *^« "^^''^'^^ at the mouth of the E^lnpff'y ^e?""^', *" South Amboy, its oyster fishery-thence W .L f^'fe'' '^'''"^«' '"""'"^ for the /iver to cZenGi^J^Cli^ Bordentown, and skirt oppc^it«Philade1;Sinros'ii7bfwVoat*''%°h'*''''^"^' throughout the SutZ.\,^„ 1 ,, °'" '^'' ""ail routes handfhesmXt Xl orcZet\'lf\^'r/*e '"'T^ i" room for it inside as vn,, !^ 2^' ^ ^'^e'^'J, there is no chair in the ear beside soZ ,f """^''^^ *° " double-armed be of large dhnen ioL or lT*''''-'.«'J^»you tope may not are fixed In twTrows one ?n »T ^ •?"'?<'• ■ "^^^'^ *«i«-s about two feet wide i^' the m1dd?» H '"^"i 'f^V°« * P«^»e« car, about fifty feet -^onn.?)/' " ""^"^^ '™S*'' "^ •'"ch ductor, who examines af. S^!'?^^ circulates the con- length of the tra,™ aie d Z ^1^ *^^'' ^i'^''''*^' t^e whole goel out and in as you ifr^c^ed hr"" '^'^ '.'""""'"e as ho entrance as you niSlHlXV^ 'eThef eL^To^^rs'tt ylvan'ia side, skirtin7[fe river t^ntv'a™^' *? ^^ ^^""■ Tacony, where we are one«3,l twenty-throe miles down, to or eigh^t miles, down to X Ketone C^vr'r™'' ^''', '"'"^ the rival line. They arrboti, ^f H? ^ », wharves, close to dinner or breakfast liatf^nrli 1 *■''^"'""« f?™- three dollars; distance about the ele tfl^ ""■''T'' *^ «"'*'"«" ' the explain thatTl the S' 11^""^"'^ "^'t'' ^ ''i" ^ere hoLe ordomesti Ue Tl:rS ^ ■- ''"™ their second ^^x.xxuuie, monumental;' t Orleans, "Crescent City," &c wilf brid^^TXcU:as"wb„r: rf'^^T'^'' "^ ^h" purpose b/some dil^nat^w t"" ll"^ I* t}",^ A-mencans have no time nnrl ^ffi„ • i^ x-^ ^^ ' ''^* ^^^^ tious or set on ^'::^:^^tu::;i^tz^::' -Fh^- 40 NATIVE SWELL MOB. h ,1.1, "iljil 1 (I 'I ! 'llll were steadily at work clearing away the chaiTed piles, and clriviDfr new ones for the immediate planting of a new bridge. Iho aspect of the Jerseys just here is not inviting; marsh meaciows and swamps, framed to the north-west bv low hills, gettmg still more flat in a sandy light soil to Cape'May. A provisionary steamer took us across, and we scrambled up the embankment, fifty yards beyond the wreck of the bridge, into a fresh set of cars beyond. I was struck by a queer placard on the landing, telling us to "take care of our pockets! —quite a rural improvement on our pit-door cautions, but the swell-mob of the States are great travellers, and do business with a cool assurance— quite a caution. ±rom r u. ^^tou on to Trenton we followed the canal side, where tu. ,' me fine mules were tracking numerous boats. Ail over tue States they spare no pains or expense to cultivate tills breed of this most useful creature. In size they rival the Spanish— in speed and docility I dare say exceed them. f 11 ^?*f ^ j^ }^^^^^y situated, and looks pleasing beside the tails ot the Delaware, but is still but a good large town, and aspires to no saucy second titles, like her sisters. They are great Dissenters, quiet Quakers, sober-sided, sober-minded, eschew the vanities, and with a sly chuckle make use of the great vanity fairs each side ; so many dollars in market, so many for running backwards and forwards by thousands across their level improvable state. " They don't want a great, proud, corrupt city, where the mayors and corporations are airaid to do their duty," and are the mere creatures of the mobocracy. Such is the frequency of immense rivers rushing to the Atlantic, that one finds New York on a peninsula, or tongue ot land; the Jerseys another; and Philadelphia built on another, between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, where tliey are two miles apart, over a gently rising tongue of land, all the streets now running completely across from one to the otlieT, east and west ; while the crossing streets, north and south, extend about three miles, the suburbs fast extending— land, houses, and house-rent, every year growing dearer. Ihe Schuylkill banks above the city are hiJly, rocky, \nd very picturesque, often beautifully wild, while below, and where it enters the Delaware, it partakes of the same features ot flatness, slightly undulating here and there. The whole country divided in^o moderate-sized farms, with patches of woodland, getting more and more scarce near the great towns, and now of the utmost value. Alreadtr /'(\.«l ]a uacd as ^li- better and least expensive fuel, extensive beds bebg worked ^\vf y^,^^ branches of the Schuylkill, about forty miles oil, of the kind called anthracite. Burning with intense heat ana littlo smoke, it is excellent for domestic pui-poscs, so that )iles, and N bridge. [; marsh ow hills, av. n bled up 3 bridge, a queer i of our pit-door avellers, caution, lal side, 8 boats, jultivate ley rival them, side the wn, and 'hey are minded, e of the rket, so ousauds want a :)rations tures of to the tongue uilt on , where 3f land, 3 to the th and iding — PHILADELPHIA STBEETS. 4^ !trr7l;tfyerLTbTfT^-^ "■'- - the peaml. ^ ^ '^^° '" **"> "'''"^ bare nearly dieap- no idea of itsTze e« Jt 2" *? '"''' " ""^ ^""^ SchuylkUI, looking down fn (t '^' ^''''*'^™ ^"'^ <"> t''" |ia^q«ar^:t''^^'4^ek:""f^''ir^' '» "oy-od by streets Iccutre street bein«Souln!.lJ^-".*nS'> J' ^I'^^s-board, the HiKh.8treet-fS?fver toriver t <120feet)-of late called a3 the centre avenue runni„"„^?'^°'''?'^ ''y,°°<' ««" ^ider, street. ' """'"^ ""'■t'^ aid south, caUed Broad- ^ Je'verTSr^atfon^fn^: f^ >'-*^^f *''» °«-' -*'' in Chesnut, Wd"ut and ArJ f '^.'""f''"'' l^^'er (that is, the town), but CTervwW^^"'' '?''•'*''*• t»«',"'is the middle of fc.td'ctet5?!!?; »:! '"^~ v'e'j^rntt Of late years the nua^k« Id" ''T""*'^ '» dwell on here. Everybody in extraord^nn^ If '•P""'T.™' "«■" *<> «"tdo L sale d? in^s sW andTi„ '"f ' '"l^^^"^^ temples for srauite facings^ Cdreds^^^^wT'' '^'RS^I"' "'"■•hie and fcfades. One n CW,mff 5 ^■■'dows, and richly fantastic Exchange, th: broker" "SsTnV he 'h^ '""? °' "'" -«.era4?;rro„Te^°nir ''^f- ''■ :« t S:S rtelr^ofc^i^'i?^^^^^^^^^^ "^'"^ •;:s:d^i^;h:trtt;3v?i^'^^^^^^ Mhe; reaelX^r'thrtreS'::,? rt^rlf tf ""';'^-' n(U ourselves, in the snmr .„„ /i . f, ^^"'.1"»*^ as it is '"".ibuses, ru„;i^^yto";„7 -roZn S t t"^ !"•« «»'-d «ith 'l;-«'t andthe ExcLnge near tbe wh«ve "^l^^*" i^""''- J^ank," for ,he tine inarble u;!;L?s":!^. fe.''".'''?' W ■ pm.«do ,uul show h™r rd^l"T7,n,-,*"''^ 7^"""l Kash,gUu„ a, ^leveuth-sU^T^Ii..^ ^r^S ;"„1 42 BEICKWOBE AND PAVEMENTS. m |!if' -r ' ' " a mile of pavement on tlie south, or State-house side, is crowded of an afternoon, before and after dinner. Besides, here are all the most dashing shops ; their windows ^nay not quite reach the rich display of our first-rate ones, 1 ut very near, and a vast number are even larger than ours within, more lofty and of greater extent. The French, I think, take the lead. But shops now-a-days, like the fashions of the civi- A JT^^^"' ^^® ^^^^ o^ ^^^ same cut everywhere. Here, and all over the Union, they divide their patronage between London and Paris, with rather a leaning to thu latter. I thought the poorest show and worst taste was in their silver- smiths' and jewellers' displays ; all their silver plate, of the most preposterous shapes, very showy. The street pavements are wretched, as in all their towns --much as ours were fifty years ago—the same round, smooth stones set on end, assisted by great mud holes, enough to dislocate one's limbs. How their spider- wheeled vehicles get over them is marvellous. Churches and chapels abound ""i^^^tI^^^ ^-^® buildings, with handsome spires; several public libraries and concert-rooms. Three or four theatres are generally well filled, including Barnum's Museum. He seems ' have one of those enormous theatro-museo omnium gatherums in every large city, often with a band outside all day jjlaying (Richardson's booth f^^'r' -- of t-e« on each no walks ; two or three sn^^f^n'f?' "° P"^' "» ^'"•dens, left.. The old 'Hat hourZf^",tn'r™r *^^ precious ; and w is the wSLf^ remains, and becomes those beautiful creatures th^pref '^T" °^'"' ^'' "''"^■•« ling, undisturbed by schoolte^'ir'''' ^'V" g^^^ol- settle them with us 1 often tonWl ^P'' "^^ ^»"ldsoon myself watching their plavf^wl^'? ""'?""''' ™<' »'»™<"i of the trees, f think thiVte I ;/"'"'''' T""! *•>« f-'t' juveniles; they marindeed b" ^atcn", "^ *''<' f-^^''™" m puUic places, but it i eer'hit Z , "'j^^'P'"' t"^*" ows our rasged-schiol trie grow un^'fl"^'--*^'''? <""• ^to" ^ liumanity or feehne fbr nn^W^ TJ'-'' "" '"''"'"ated idea of They tor^ient Kd Srov a^ h'"^' "^ ^""^ ^"""^ ^ *«'<>• selves, in default at the ,nr,rt Jf + *''''? ,?a°' o' imuso them- oiher. ' '^^ *P°" o*^ tormeutmg or punching each o«^"o^Tn::tTncSsad^^a't"aHr ^f'?. "^-'-bed, and Ihoiights and impreSonrth™ tTtVef " '"^'^x am not sure that I shall sav an vtl,i„„ k/'""''?''^ "«• ^ change which is takhig pS in^J^^'^' ''h"^?"'' """"''"'§ *''« striking than among ourselve, 1V„ , ''^S'' "^^^'^ """fe in fashfons. Even f ere in thi« ^fJ? PT'*" T, '"°''« ^l^^'e hats, straight eol^ and hooks ai^r^^f '*•''"''.■"■ "^^^d peared. fhe Quaker vi^l..l?S / ^^"r^! '""^o 9"'^ disap- mg to their drat sifk Zne^ tft ilT ir'"" ""f.'"^''^> ^'i"^- Nor would the young ones bo' " renri i f P/™'t'ye ugliness, appeared in Chesuut street in ,11 «? i J/*' meeting" if they velvet fashions. Amon" the in ,n YJ^^^^''^ ^"^ ^""^ ""d t«tios, imperials, KSthlin^lffAr''' 5"'^?^' "o™- extrava.ant%laidL and ™L ow ti^s eo'^ron?'' '^' '^'''^ «'' where dissent from tliP " wlV i T . j ,^,°itront one. Every- fll over the StS'nto hu?drlt'of^''r*'l'P'"^ '''"'f "P land. The Ouakers nr„ ,,.?i j '^ •/ ^'•'?'^ unknown n Ene- matter 4„f^l!!rf LS "?''°'','««' 'f 9W~nay, old folks. L mothers are nobodreri X?,ld%w '„'i•"l^,°" *'^^^^^^ of the earth, groy lai™ aveLji *" Pi'^'^'' ™ *''« ''''''» States. The; arc seareelv ,^n<,r ■ '",?'""''"1 '" *« ^fnited the moment Lyonn^o^os^rfllTlfl^i''"^ °'\'} ^T''' *™"' observe the face^ of't^-'Z^'^^-^^^l'^^ c ■ 'I GIHAED, AND FItEEMASONS. country. In a pleasure-lovine people one is struck with the besetting-sm in every city of having no public gardens (the last were burned in a riot), no parks, no suburb promenade ot any sort. Here, then, is nothing but Chesnut-street, up and down, with the audience at all the hotel doors and bat conies. There is, indeed, the cemetevy, which nobody goes to, at Laurel-hill, three miles off, beyond the new Girard College, which has, sa^y they, already cost too much, is in bad taste, and, to hide its other faults, is pent up in four high Walls. Yesterday there was a grand commemoration day: and some curiously fine speeches at this Girard College ; to which all the freemasons of this city marched full dress, two and two, forming a procession a mile or a mile and a-half long- some thousands. A fierce hot, dusty day ; each lodge with its band, each member with a sprig of cypress at his coat button- hole, to do honour to the memory of this western world Itothschild ; but the trustees have made sad hash of the be- queathed dollars (in the same way the secretaries trustees lm\e built |i miserable, fantastic College or Athenaeum at Washington, out of the half million of dollars left them by our late nimeralogical philosopher, Mr. Smithson, called the ' fcmithsonian Institute"). It would seem that moneys left m trust for the good of the public, as it is in England, is made rare ducks and drakes of. Well, this penitentiary-looking Girard College is on the left ot the great avenue running north towards Fairmount Water- works, where the river Schuylkdl is dammed up, and the water thrown up on the hill reservoir ; and this is the only thing the fair sex can reckon on for a walk, when they do get there in their omnibuses, a distance of three miles ; but as the city keeps creeping northward, it may be now fairly caUed in tlie suburbs Here a range of hills begin on both banks of the bchuylkdl, and the ground rises in a healthy schistus rock, running across towards the Delaware, and" it forms the favourite spot of late years for ^he villas of the wealthy mer- chants from the banks of the »• above Fairmount to Ger- manto\N'n; along, straggling village, six miles off, the healthiest spot anywhere round the city. This Germantown for many years remamed in its old stone-housed, steep-roofed, fai-ni- yarded state, in one street of three miles long, for a si)ace out of the "memory of the oldest inhabitant;" but they are now building m it like mad; a single line of rail runs to it, north, out of NiiitJi-streel, and every-body wants to live there, very naturally. Worn out as farms, it cuts up well in building- lots ; nothing is seen along the roads but the shining mica of the rock, which is very soft and dry. Crops are thiu— \^ out k with the rdeiia (the iromcnade ■street, up a and bal- body goes w Girard iich, is in four high DHIVING OUT OP TOWN. 45 day: and to which , two and df long — ;e with its it button- (rn world •f the be- i trustees naL'um at ?m bv our ailed the 45 pay ; but liere health is safe from fliA ,-r,o- j- fever and ague, so rife along the bin W^^^^^ ^^*^^V "^ *^« Its ok woods havp Innr, ^- oauKs ot both rivers sprung up, are siotchnr"-^ftd7?oT''' ?'' '*' '"^"^ "'■"'e fho praises of the spot Here fw'?' T^"- *'*'«^'' «"', ^il'iekory shSes w r«i.*" -'l"?'^'''^"''"''''^. fi^". n->»ont|the blackbirds, the robins When m life's young dream I saun- 46 GERMAN TOWN ; EAILWAY. sort; if til simply feu is no mark (yes, bretac exorbitant tliinka it w thing or tri tered hero with my fiahing-rod, knowing nothing of Isaac Walton, in a blessed state of ignorance and animal life. Winding up tlieso break-ne.k hills, some at an angle of thirty-five or forty degrees, we got into Schoolhouso lane, and djish into Germantown, at the Biitto.iwood Tree Hotel— another house of < ill for all the fast "wagon" youth of Phila- delphia. li diey wouldn't go quite so fast, these rides would bo indeed very delightful ; but the sensation is, that striking I they°take 1 a stone, or the least stumble, would infallibly send us flyinjf Bin short, t over the horse's head, or \Ahirl one oiH a dozen yards in an ■ market jua< upset, with broken bones or a broken nock. ■ taken in th ThisGermantown(-4»9'^ice,IIampstead or IIendon)is a great ■ country for blessing to all those easy enough to have a country house ;■ must take ii indeed, a great many clerks of late years, and tradesmen wellB How mar olFlive here, coming backwards and forwards six miles by theBgood! — but, railway in half an liour, for it is a slow domestic bit of roadMcontra in ,i ( and its snorting fiery horse goes quietly, to allow the boys to Band very gr< run o I before it occasionally, or cross it, and laugh at the|fashionable danger, if any. Some of the numerous passengers pay by the yeiir (no second-class carriages) j a single faro is fifteen cents, or 8eveni)ence-halfpenny. The conductor, a tall, dry, serious citizen, who walks back- wards and for\vards taking the cents or the tickets, is known to all his passengers as " Major," and has a friendly word atBTapley" in t each double-armed chair as he passes. He has been " hollar-B^i^y are extr ing arter them ere young varmint to get off the rail ; they'd better mind, I tell you, or the 'cars' 'U fix 'em some day yet, I guess." I often came to this breezy, rocky, sandy, upland Dutch village, walking its whole length (three miles) to ChesnutI Hill, where at Chew's (sometimes called Maclanagan's, forBnake Indiam shortness) old house us Britishers had a smart skirmish in tlielake no notice eld war. The turnpike-road through the town is, like allB is that the-} American turnpikes, unspeakably execrable ; no EnglishmanBito staid, pea can even imagine such a contrivance of stones, and holes, andiut sensible, si ruts, with partial side pavements to match ; but all this justlie of clarified now consf loes one of its beauties, and help^ the delusion cflng before the being a hundred miles away from the great feeystone City, ofl I betray no which people get tired — towards Sunday at any rate. fgue, which m In forty years I see no perceptible change. The primitivcl The girl or I Dutch have, indeed, mostly died off, or cleared out for theifead, poached Ohio, but the stone houses remain, with the very same shinglewimming in m roofs I do believe. But the openings, the extended arms| C/^ild. — I wa chalked out on each side, long roads md lanes, are fast iillmM Mother. — VVi up with every description of board an . brick cottage, villa, andl Child, — I wa lodge, qrate after our own last fashions in such things, but om Mother. — I g a larger scale, a.-d without gardens or lawns, with most rarAm up. (S^elf exceptions, or of any attempt at any ornamental ground of any! Child,'-- 1 wa] obody to d of all b; musing and e put up wi that swee enient, incoi Captain M ave talked oi ay some chi fame thing. I of Isaac life. 1 angle of| 3 lane, and ) Hotel- I of Phila- des would ,t striking . us flying) ards iu an , ) is a great ry house;! smen well les by the t of road, 10 boys to yh at the I 1*0 pay by I fifteen! SPOILED CHILDBEN. 47 is ilks back- is known f word at 1 "hollar, il; they'd e day yet, id Dutd > Chesnut gan's, for ish in the , like all iglishman lioles, and . this justj elusion ct] primitivi .t for thel le shingk led arms) ast fiilinfl villa, an( fs, but 01 nost rm ad of ani i8 no market, and nothing whatevBr ?"'{ '^"^bages, for there (yes, bread and milk) .'x^Bnt »t 1 ■ ' "'^ M "» the town exorbitant prices !aC'.'^^.lTf,T'°"f '"^"''^'' ""d at thinks it worth while to mSer M »n ^T"'r ^ "°'">dy thing or trade amounts torrich"Xer^.''*K''^''''<^y' '^ thi they take to it, but with an irrefc'v tT f *'?''5' P'^''^''P«' In short, the country round i.^^^™!-^ I "^^.^ independent. market just a« it is eo^iS k&„^ tl *'"« J'^U'wIelphia taken in the first instance aL til?' J'^''™ everything is country for ten or twelve mUesronnl^^ , *?'' ''?"° ^^ the must take it out homoThel^^l v^or'iT itt f ™'''^^P''™ How many ffood fln'n,ya iTi! -^ ; ^*^out. Udl^but,;a^^^^ fashionable world) do7s iSt \ h«^ ^^^ bobody to direct anybody noboIlV -^^T ^]^^'^' ^here is feast of all by the dX pLr^^^^^^^ '^9 least controlled, Uusing and awkward tS onr^f"" ''P''''^"' "^^^ence the f)e init up with, perCs smfled at Ivt""'"'' ^?d.^^^ich must J) that sweet l.^me of m?nd thth f"" .''^. ^l^^^ ^^^^^^If apley" in the words, '« ThL is iolJv 7'^f ^?'t^ ^^ " ^^^^k hey are extremely like ourse yer^JTr"^^^^^^^^^ jet ept, inconw.int, transatfe -- Captain Ma(;kinnon and Mr Ch^^i^ , ' lave talked of '^ domestifl^^Vs^^X ^1^.^^" ^^'^ ^^« lay some child was spoiled bv7;« ^^^,^'''^^^e« *he pernicious ame thing. Baby citiLets ar J al 1^^^?" ' ^ ^^*"^ ««^ ^^^ Ue Indians, and do SLvJrthl?'* *^ "^^ ^^^^ as the ^ke no notice bur uC^Zeah^^^ not only mothers IS that the.e unlicked cubs S LfL''''^ ^^"^^- ^^^ ito staid, peaceable citizeT ind ar-m?;! ?^!' ^"^"^ ^^^^ "P ut sensible, sharp people fs the l.«rSr ^Tu^^'^^' ^^^ t^^n e of clarified molasses and ^l^r ^^' P"" *^^^ ^^ do not •ead, poached eggs, buekwheflt „!i ^ i ''®^'^t''ak, corn- 'imming in molasfes : * ""''''• ''"ttered; the whole C^ild. — I want somfi haT« Motker.^Well, you ain't no room. uii^ want some hRm-^(louder) Jfo^en— I guess you won't like if V 7^ imup (i?./^. a Av.//2^^^^^^ (r....3^.,) Hand the ^AtM.^ I wanv some homany. 48 EDUCATED YOUNG LADIES. ".'"1- " i.iHi Mothev.'-'Ky\ well, any how, you ain't ate a'most nothing [Jielps.) ^' Finally, the child, after mauling it about in a listless way leaves perforce half the monstrous accumulation in its plate untouched. Luckily, the boys are taken out of their feeble hands, go to school, and half educate themselves in intuitive crude knowingness, but the girls remain under such mothers' supervision. As they grow up, if well off, the piano aud singing IS attempted, but no sort of judicious study or readin-' 18 given them, or any ordinary maxims instilled; nor theii hours or studies in the least regulated, or their tastes properly directed; neither method, order, or industry, all is left tJ settle itself anyhow— very often at their own caprice or whim • while, if sent to school, they are crammed with abstruse sul)' .lects, perhaps the mathematics or surgery~in books whollv improper lor young females— or mineralogy and Italian, or even Latin, but all in the most superficial way; taught by schoolmistresses who evidently know nothing themselves, not even the twenty-four hours in advance of their scholars of the hedge-schoolmaster, of pleasant memory. They are tau4t to dress line, aud dance, but the taste in both left totally uii- guided; in a word, everything is left to their own discretioDj and intuitive powers of finding out. The results are occa' sionally startling. And certainly the young ladies do talk— ye gods, how they do talk ! Politics, the stars, and globe, flirta. tions, scandal, omistiy, daguerreotype, namby-pamby poetry (never of any I or good, nor of Shakespeare), but the open and the last polkas, actir.g, and Uncle Tom. But, howevei Irivolous, however misdirected, the education of the wealthie American girls, the same thing may be said of the great bod' ot our own citizens at home. The only novelty lies in ih tone and manner of it; the bolder and more independen carriage here, by which grown-up young ladies take the lea ot their own still youngish mothers, who very often are littl better than servants in their own house, while their daslii daughters are parading Uhesnut-street, attending lectures . the rights of women, cr actually coming out in the Bloom costume. They are even more fond of balls and dancing tin we are. At several balls given lately, iiccording to the anuu custom of the Go-a-head i'iremen and Hose Companies tl great attraction of the evening wan the show-off of a 'ft greatly during Bloomers. Others ventured once or twice parade Chesnut-street, but the boys, ever fond of misch stared and laughed, and crowded round Ihoin. ho that i* must t ley always have, the lowh mLr J^ ""'l discarding, as «tnng, with a man or bo?drTer wh^ !? ''"/^"^ ^^^«^« ^ a IS one-half thrown away tuLmin'. «f ff *^^ ^^^«^'« ^^^^ngtli our clumsy fashion. '"''^^^ ^""SS^ng at the one behind liim, in li^At^r^^^^^^^^^ .uided by stepping out smartly old furf^^^ ^T?''' '^'^ l^orsea up. and the soil is 1 ghl bii if o '^'1'^^ ^^^' *^ ^« ^^^ke land, they put on foiu W« . but T '^''P^?' •^^' ^" '^^'^ economy of^the thing it is which r^nl ' ^'^P^diion and neat would adopt it, instead of fL if "^^^'^^o^c wish our farmers wlion the W of o,?c^ld an r^^^'^^ ^^'^^ «*i" «ti^k to Pletely thrown away S8lubi;fJ,^r'' ^^ ^^««*' ^« ««"»: Jlicir - cradling,-' too is verv ,^^^^^^ f^'^^'^^ "^^^ the bargain, fingers), foJlow^d b; a End b^^5 done (the scythe ^itl "ig machines, so vaun Ld «^H "^T J^'^ ^"^"^^^'^ reap, never be tried here The ^.I'r "''^'^'1^^ ^xpensiye, wSl England won't goXvvn in A nTf^:", *^"d .A..r created in tiio ^clat it gave to 1 p^^^iT- /''''\' .*^'^"«^^ *^>^7 are fond of '"•d wo^'fc encouraire lumbe^infr '-'^^^^ P^'^^'*'^'** People, Hake of a ve.y douM^t' ^a^'iT 'f''- "^fif^^^^^^ ^'«^ *^»« ;!P their ••harvest homes ''U^n.^'. „^_^r":?hey wisely keep nvm ripcMi. so tiiat Mu-v ihi^^.^X^'!'''' °^!"'^" **« the corn- men Irak ith ,t, siiock >n, a frolic of it:"th,r et, , liSt':" '" " '1"^ evening finished bi ;"PPer. and, if they ca.i ]Z a]^^ 'T^'''"^ ^7 A do not thint ur. L.\ ^^^ ^ ^'ddle, a dance. Ii, ao much an n all excellent nerica dW— "3 CC^t^ '■■■ » 50 THE BLACK POPULATIOX. delay at getting it housed) as I Lave seen in one single county (JLent) at home, owing to the solitary, dilatory, peddling way our tanners act, waning, it would seem, stupidly till the patience of sunny days is fairly ^vorn out, and rain sets in. Ill tlie same way we have our hay too often spoiled— mown too slowly ; the sunshine escapes before it is all cut ; now, no (;rop requires so much vigorous promptness ; with our parishes swanning with the idle and unemployed, one sees two or tliree mowers in large fields and meadows. In America they muster all their neighbours— down it comes in a day, and is really i\. frolw, for they laugh, sing, and feast, and make a Irohe ol it. I stroll about Philadelphia streets to find owt new tJiiv as ; oyster-cellars and shoeblacking-celiars, so famous twenty years ago, are gone ; while the negro population, in its own nigger-quarter" in Cedar-street and " along south," seem to me more ugly, poor, and ill-dressed than formerly. The St. triles 8 of all American cities— what stuff we do talk at homo aoout sentimental niggers ! Lady Sutherland should take a morning s ramble among these laughing, larking animals ! aping, in rags or rainbow finery, all the airs and graces of the sweet ' white niggers" of Stafford House ! Pree or slaves, it IS all the same, except that the slaves are better dressed and better fed! and not quite so idle, less careworn, laugh more, for they need not think of to-morrow. Good heavens ! what nonsense our philanthropists talk, and what mischief tht^y have done our noor West Indies ! I continue my walk down Cedar-street, the new-come Irish alone fratenijze with tlio coloured denizens of this quarter ; as I pass the groups I get a gnn, or some expressive slang greeting, not to tread on tlie piccaninnies crawhng about in the sun. Jews, grog-shops, and slops hero do thrive. ^ Beyond this south (luarter the suburbs are called Kensing- ton and Moyamensmg ; Passayunk to the north, " Spring gardens and " Northern liberties ;" but one hears nothing but our own famdiar names generally, few or none of Xho old ^«M "^ Indian ones remain like these. 1 10 wharves arc filled with sliinping and Bteamers, and smaller coasting craft, all beautiful and excellent of their Jiind ; but the length of this noble river, 120 miles to the sea, and Its many shoals, prevent the immense Atlantic commerce seen at new York ; still the business ilono hero and activity FarWes" '' l'*'^^^''^^^'"*^>' "^^^"1^^ transport to the Ohio and of ^^''''/'''V't',' «l''l''J'"l'^' ^'^''-^IH^lH ^ l)ut liere, at the foot ot »pruee-8"H* r*'!d wooden chapel, witli e spire, alloat. chained to the wharf. This is for seamen. 100, aua IS quite u curiosity. Men may diUcr about the good 'u^I^IBe.' . e county ling way till tlie sets in. — mown now, no parishes two or ica they T, and is make a things ; twenty its own seem to Ihe St. it homo I take a nimals ! 8 of tho ' slaves, dressed 1, laugli L'avena ! nischief ly walk zo with roups I •ead on f-shops, ensing- Spring lothing tho old rs, and f their ho sea, nmeree ictivity lio and lie foot ?!, witli eanien, ic {joud found on the American shores hnf 4f . opinion of eveiy floating S thev tf' '"'' \' ^'"* <>«« admirable; many a creeping Tour ? VT'"u7^^'^ «^« «o lected," looking at their beautifuMi^''^7 ^^«<^ '"^^ neg. smacks yawls, open or decked or b^lf 'i ^YT' ^^^ooners, oentrc keels; then again, theifnX ^i^'^f^'f ^^^^^ ^^i^'in^ ' Jike a board," witff the admirab . ^ *' * ^^^ ^'^"« ^^^^dinf Jc^clge of all their fittings aXontnvf'''"^ ^^.^ sea know! should be bound 'prentic^ ^^^ contnvances. Our sea lords be sent to study in'trAmerfca^na^^^^^ ''^^ >^ ^^^^ docks at the yard here, " «ircft/'''^^ ^^' fl'^^^ing their simplicity and efficiencr tW sp ^^ ""^/"'"^"^^^^^^ ^«r and dock; they could aTonH ff^"" f ?^^« »« cradle bttle or nothing beyond repair. ?,.*^^^«'decker; there s ^avy.yard is complL in sK an? ^^ ""T' ^^^ t^' emergency. ^ ^^^^^^» »nd quite ready for any mf^^^d^lil^'l^^^^- *°r ' '■- "-"'W its ^eaehe^, I believe, half a mllS„'"'*yf:*'"rty years ; it „ ™ » great city, with less trade but in r!I *-f *''•" attributes of }ovk, baeked by a richer counW 1'','"^' " equals New ore,g„ trade; both states'iSd -^Aof ^f dfPondent ol t'e great lakes, but PenisXant ^h„^''N *° *''" Ohio and cleared, and her farms are X «!, . ^ ll ''"'*?«'• Proportion can be rieher than hS-erl wheat' "' "'« Union'; n'oth °s "'Its, buckwheat, clover ™ t7« ,! ^^' ■^°'^'*" '^"m, barlev ™t breeds; their horses', as i^ S vPT'T r-l "f «'^«^- t ■"■ *™'V"S "Ud higl coirage bSl '"'l'"'"^'' J™tly to thrive and iniprove, all-evS.r>; „". "," quadrupeds seem I'or dogs are much eared for I tT^i"-' 'I^H """lier cats "'deed, are nloutiful enough but ,„' ■" *]'" ^^''*^^- Dogs, » pure breei; stUl nZ^are " a^e ir^''- "I" '°''^°'» ™<^ (tl't-aieXLle.rhe^rriSH-"'''^ "''^' *» the theatres ;™^erts and leetui^sartl^'^Ss-^for ''?''" Museum) arc tlie amusement of the citinn.Vii °'"^ and "ha Is" for [""umed. Sunday evenWsllLT'"™'','''^ "«^"''''d. often );;;" door, I went fn (a S 'of Fvi? 'rS' ''•"'"d the Music- 111" p ace W.U full If wcllles^pf/f;/'^^^^ '.'"^."'^ "'"^ ^nts. »>' So..,alism. I M-as soon t ed of , ' 'l'"' '" '"''"' " '<«^^turo "<'V".™"'. "hich. howev™ „™"; !■"" ^'<"J'"'ut, mischievous f;"'.'"'rm!o8s enough ; for mAmoJiL **""? H'"™' "atisfnction, ,""; ""ta.it .uything ^l ,?,, v^l , "7'?' ""^dy minds beyond ii 52 SHAKESPEARIAN READINGS. Kemble's, whoso colourings struck me as too affected, too violent. Yet is it diificult not to overstep ** the modesty of nature ;" a diificulty none of our actors ever attempt. kStill, our beloved bard exists, if not to ^he public, at least in our closets. Of our two publics, I do verify beheve the American will be the first to recover some little perception of his omniscient beauties. In this respect {,heir pits^nd galleries are not so very contemptible as ours, and do not laugh and roar so very often in the wrong plp.ce ; and are infinitely more sparing of that noisy applause so prostituted among ourselves. The gods here, indeed, make noise enough, but not at all meant as flattering to the actors. But to one or two more positive concerns. The city is well supplied by the Fair- mount Waterworks — the facility is enviable — the great reser- voir being only three miles off, on its hill, on the left bank of the Schuylkill, as if nature had so meant it, as an inexhaust- ible supply of pure water for this great city ; it commands the highest buildings, and is conducted very cleverly along all the streets. Tlie water and fire plugs are constantly turned on, rushing along the gutters in all directions, cleaning the streets, or putting out fires, on which attempts, at least, there is a constant and vast consumption. The markets here equal the New York ones in richness anil profusion ; the one held in the greatest commercial street, Market or High-street, is full half a mile long, under covered arcades, in the centre of the street, from the wharf on the Delaware (where the first section is the fish market) up to Ninth-street ; but the country wagons (and pair) backed into the pavement each side, and, side by side, extend almost to Broad-street, or the centre of the city, a full mile. The profusion is quite charming. The things, in their season, not seen with us, are the Indian corn, to boil as a vegetable ; sweet potatoes, much eaten and very good : persimons, hiccory nuts, and shelbarks, ground nuts, cranberries, huckle- berries, pumpkins iuid calabashes, water melons, dried apples and peaolies (cut small), scir krout, and fifty other roots and fruits peculiar to this country. All the poultry laige and fine, but looking yellow and ill-plucked j but very moderate in price, comparatively. ConsiderLug the great quantities of the supply, the prices appear rather high — certainly very much higher these last five-and-twenty years; poidtry and meat, ot all sorts, less They have no soles ; but among others we have not is the shad, an excellent fish ; I think it is a distant cousin of tho salmon. I do not see any turbot or John Dory, but their piles of oysters ai'e prodigious. inuependei I have , of six mile Major. It country, a slackened t or (^art trot town and c the trains most of the ^vard, along «liauy mouE i»ore ; and c llie Schuylkj niart. As, li sure as the ]\ t'i^ht capital of the town, l^ill bridge, a In tJie same same point, ir south-west; i( F'k' Susqueliai i'l'f'posterous c VSouth-Westi Hie Americans "'I it hangs, c latter how mi cted, too )dc8ty of t. ytill, it in our Lmerican n of liis galleries ugh and infinitely i among ot at all wo more ho Fair- sat reser- ; bank of exhaust- )mmand8 rly along )n8tantly clean big at least, ricliness nmercial g, under le wharf market) id pair) ), extend !iUl mile, r season, getablo ; rsimons, , Imckle- d apples 3ots and Li go and Qoderatc iG prices leso last >rt8, less s (uiCfip. >t is the I n of tho lut their DEAEKESS OF BREAD. gg a state as Ponnsylranla/ toS^ ki°n^«'r-ff~^'°« flour ,8 quite a d.wP Nav i^„ -^r *?<' Phio, too, where '^^. gnnd. flour enough. ot™oSl t?^^ UX. taiXrLt;\t ehttt^r"^ 'n ''»« ^' «- w proof of the pudding • 3'L «n • f J'""^""' This is the m spite of iur o«-^'h^ne t U'" "*T'' '' '" *'''°'' '•'"t! < o»-u to scvenpence thT qlSn iolf j\ *'"' ""/ '"•«'''» t^« sla.ke.,ed to a\,entle trorrinliS itf h'l ' "', ''"'''' ^P-^-"! »'■ '•"■•' trotting Itlong amicabrSide it T?-'"'''''^': ? r*?"" tonn and country engine or Lr«!a •, ,^ well-behaved the trains vveU In towards „ .^ff T'''/":'' P'"" «f bringing most of the cities Kare thrn'f^ .I*"""?' >""■" ^o^a m «;ar« S^»t eoa !«u™ a« the Major's, the Oho "™™"^/T ''°™™ '"•« ""t so '■ftjt capital liorse, muli-fsomedl, ?'""'"}''''"' i"""'' "■• of the tOH-n, in Hi^l, „,,,! ij ^"'""t'nios. from the very eentro U ^idgo,'and J?ok,W „^;"tf„'t''-''' ""'?'"" ti'o Scb y? Ill tile same wav tin. n^l.?. tlie ongmo on the further bank »".;• point, in tS:, " et":,!'!': '™t'"'' '■T "»' thJ' •""th-west; its course, by wimlnLrT' ""'^^ '''"'■" '« the I'lif Susquehanna i" « ./-""T'On, Newcastle, and nnrn-. jiroposterous expenses of "buvIL .," "l'^™y they avoid th„ «o„th.Westcrn," ex'endTto^f? w°l' ^"■<''''«' '^ '" our III' Americans atire at f he ^.„i Waterloo-road. Even '"'1 it hangs, of Srfo te a "S "" "^ "'i '""" ™'''''<"'d" ««ttcr how much the trik'^ has i;^tr^„T'"''' »" ">-'<'ks, no' 51 Mr SKUM ; nAPl»INKSfl ! 4 The fnmoupi old Sinto-liou»(> did oonlnin Pool's Mnsoum, \)\\l (>r Inlo yoiwA JJanmin J'mds all iiniscuins, niid joinH a iho'Mvc to It. WluMi \\w i)lMy i« over, you walk about among r of Wwo, ])arlicular]y if it is nuNint to oxpross sorious dignity. They liav(« n»ad(» a nm» oxainpio of our (^utMMi, who stands among Iho Union's own givut men in a glass case ; hut I liiink a wliol(» living l)aiul in wax was tho most stmrning thing. Itwashu'lvy thai i\w harrcis, or tho l>(»llows, W(Mv on an intorinitlont plan, and had HomtMucMvy on ono\s oars. 'I'ho host tilings aro tlu'' Indian (h'cssos, M'oapons, and orna- in(»nts, always port(>ct in thoir kind, and hoautiFul. Onoof tho lit)ns of Philadolphia is tho Mint. I am ashamed io say I tlid not soo it. though vory oasy of acooss, as all tho ])uhlio buildings aro in Aniorioa, vory much to thoir orodil. On tho wholo. IMiiladolphia is a vory rioh, lnu\ pi(>asant oity, luuhra-'ing ahnost ovory luxury known to tho rost of tlic world, it is hoaUhy, too, tiu» W'ivvr and agu(» boing oonliniMl Io tho banks of its two rivors. Mystorious as tlu* Maroma of Tuscany or tho lV>nti)u> Marshes tor it is not oxactly from donsi> fon^sts, or nu)ro or loss olovation, or tho ))roscm'o of watin*. Thoy say tli(\y havo h'ss of it than twenty years ago, when most »>f tho villas and country seats were shut up and going to ruin. Still, hero any lOnglislunan may live very ploa^santly (when (juilo disgusted with his own goverinnent), if lie is a man of fortune, and if lio detios oxoessivo heat and cxcessivo void, and can laugh at uu)s»piitocs. Tho sanu» thinij nuiy bo said of ahnost any city of the Union, oxcojjt that tho \wi\l and tho mosqnilo(>s keep getting more and more awful as lie passes to tho southward beyond \'irginia, or westward towards tho Ohio. True, there aro other things to consult besides more ]diysical comforts. 1 havo no k'tters, ami. will| not ]>retond to judge of the best tone of society. From what 1 so tar se(\ 1 should say the Americans here care less ahoutj socdability and intinnito friendships than we do. Tliey rarely give diniuM's, but //'<'s' (/fn/.>v////r.v occasionally, where, liowever. I youth is iiulisponsablo. The married antl middle-aged arc \)arely tiderjitinl. and wall-Jtuwirs must make up thoir minds gtHid Jifteen years before it becomes essential with us. By good "luck, 1 am spared any anatlumias against tlu' monster-hotels. They abound hero, as in all their oities. Asj barracks thoy are perfeet- much more comfortable, porhaiKsj than our Horse (luards' at Knightsbridge. I see thoy havoj nearly flnisheil a giant strvu'turo io outdo all tho others iiil C'iiost nut -street, to nmke u]) two or throe hundred bods, aiuO out the Astor out if possible (for there is an immense rivalr}] hotweoi it may The : the free I tolls, U lect a si ))rotty 1 IS ace us else. I it's good Iielp to who wil lungs. lii'os; JU ar(^ too s xricndce- To me, i" men liko and alnio the engi] touoliuu; hell(>8 ! — ^i Can on firs in art a very ioi lli]usy j)o in sji'io o stornneHs to ibreigu tions, and JVo; on i*oiin(Mloh essential. »ir(^ less 8 they will J; Jinomalies SOMKTIII PitKi'AIUTC vory near t a bjirgain v as a favour, (luarter-doi it niiiotig iilrciuly ; oil glviMi KMini to iiinplo ol' t men in : WHH tlio s, or iho \o lIKM'Cy miFS^MSQimn AND WATR u. 65 truly il '"ay wliip ii;;;7,;ii .;,'.'f, «"'^ "P h ^ company. , ^'"''■^•'•M"(«n(, /rj T,.?s'^ '"" r." «'"'iimr with, and I<'<^t a Hii.gl? ni^ht wi 1 T Ir f t^';''^*^'/'^. 1 do not rocoJ. in ac.fUHc.d or cvV^S, >uf V'^r'"^"'/-^' and yet nobody c-'HO. rndood. a l4o ' f "^ij^^ ^'f^i I'" '*'"' "^ ^^y '".ybody '";'»> ^o ^ --«//c.--<,iti^onH tk " t ai Sn^ ^^^j^^^^ ->- -- 'i vory lo,. ebb nd m ^ • u>^!'^ J^^'n> O'xcopt uHoat) is at !1"»«V l>^>i'""^ ^ith a ^n-im to loroi.ir„ors. I'ro m an 1 r 1 " tbo /ino arts are ^nveii up ti-; a.ui al, tho ^l^tl^ZZ £^ 1^^^ "^ ^-- -td i;;;;::^.; ^y^i^vXu^^ "^-^'^'-^-' - ^^^« tlu'y will bnvo to r :f,i ;\ f ;;,;\,f ^7«!l li-i"«. and M'bon "uonialies of a more Lllned «& tllb;;!^ ' '"'''"P^^^"^ ^-^^ CIIAPTEK V. Bomvnum} op nxvnmmK, WAsiriKcmv tiif ciifs. / ' I 50 J* ■ft STAllT FOR nAT,TIMonK. l)Us aiul cmI )H ])arMioH. All over Amorica uiv aH ^rcat a. iiuiHaiioo as in Kng. laiul -iini.<.so on otu; ,,ui(o an muHi. Hut at any vaio'iiwy an hoiivvAoohu^ IIuuks ihan our«, and MuMr li.)rH,.H nrj »o lo.M,s.cl ami jottor fod Bn(, horo in iluwStai.^H, whoro tl.0UM8 aroal (Mhyulty ni l.rinKinK tlio Hovnvifrn Tmhli,, io nny 8ort of iv^ndation tluMV is soni,' (>xni8(>, if M.o wis,, niuni- nj)ahty Imd noi, aildod llu» c^xtra (Oiariro of ivvcMitydlvc Conts fovmory uid.v.dual ..arriod. Thus, if you oan coax a follow ontUo stand, or at any ol tho stations, wlioro tlu»y all rush as ours do to ;m>ot, tlu> sf.s.und.oats and trains, to'tako you a nilo tor hall a dollar, and your family of tluvo ^(^t into tlu. ha.>knoy...oa,.h with you. Iho jarvoy olaps on an additional quartor tor oach. and your nn|)oain,tr faro turna out a dollar and a, ,,uartw or fivo shilliuKs. Now. as tlio stcaniors and railways on both routes tak(> ono to Ualtinioro or JNTow York orthmMollars.n<>arlva hundrod niilos. it doos sooui quito absurd, iiui wo ]^.nKltsh ar(> piu-footly usod to tho most mou. strous nnposihions and nuisanoos of ovory possibh. doscriptio.i cMitiroly own.v: to our olovor ooutrivanoo of tho law in such' matlors oarotu ly ])rovulod : both oursolvos and tho Amorioana d.sdannn.ir 1.) tako a, loaf out, of tho Fronoh common-sonao arranpnnonts )n suoh tlnn,i?s. tho ohiof part of both our ^^un. dorUi\ oonstitutional troodoms eonaiatin^r of n,,, moat voxa- tioua oontuaion and oontradioti,ui of ovory si.,^lo tiling moant for tho pubho irood. On thia hydra's IumuT a vorv thi^^c volunio nught bo wrd ton for tho odiHoation both*' of tho mother country mui hor young aauoy giant oH'apring. JJut I ani in a liurry, and nuiat say a word, boforo I got into tho cab, on tho gcMH'ral appoarauoo of tho Anun-ican girls, not muoh altorod smoo Mrs. Trollopo'a days, nor Lady lOmHino Wortloys. In dross, at loast. Ihoro is a groat doal of tho couhurdrrose Thoy doljght in two things ospooially; tho tn;.glUo.s{. most hoavonly colours, dazzling white, ultra-niari.io (•nmson. and ultra-givon. Violet and i)urplo aro too quiot,' but nuimmas may wear thorn. Thus all tho missoa in thoir t(.ons (and ator that the deluge!) aro (piito butterflies, i hey dross well, but too fiaringly: brocades, satins, china sdk crapes, and embroidered shawls; in short, neither Paris nor London can llnd them anything too lino. The next passion IS church, chapel, and sermons. JN^ext to danein- and balls, their favourite preacher (as with oursolvos in town nowaua iiien) 18 tiie one thing most talked about and ran Ihoro IS, among other favourites just now, a Kev Vordsworth. who draws all the finest bonnets to the street Cliapel. Such sermons as we hear m England aft JMi Ar< •lovrr oab 10 l\w (Uh- Aniorioa iM in Kiig. ralo ilicy KM'HCH nro (*H. wlioro |)ul>li(! to ISO iiiuni- lv(» ('(Mlts t a fellow 11 i'urIi as CO you a into tlio (Ulilional a dollar iicrs and nw York '111 quito )st nioii- i'i'i])tioii, in such ncricans :)n-R(MiHo ur Wi.ii- M' voxa- j: in(\int y thick of tlio iiufc I nto tho Hs, not iniolino of tlio ly; tho uurino, tiuiot, I thoir erflios. china ' Paris > next mcing town Pl^AN OF RIVKH flTKAM TIlAVKtLlNO. f '"";"« -I'"'"-! i.. hi'i, I i;!'''''^''"'? ""V'-l "rMl ..•r,.„nm,B wilJ. oxoit™, '„^, n 1 .,,ri^l,-r";' """" '" ''"""»^ .-."'■" y""tl, nln„„ i, I.Sy) ™.o,," t .'l' r'"''"' '", >'"'"' ""H,.,- M,ai, „„r ^,>|„, I ,1,, „,^(™,,7' "''''■/• V'^ '"■" l'"'-''- "ml Vrl,n|,« i„ „ny ^i„,, „h /, i "r t?um "^ "'''""''' l"^''''li'"-i(,y. l"'«"''- 'lly will, n,„«t profu™ Il^l, n?"'''-' ■""' '^^"™i«'io• oach V in. th,. distanoo to n,,xroq rr';/ ?, ""'t 'T'^"'" "'«"• "•Hl.'il at tho flidos into TS, of 1 7"'''' "'''''°" '" •■"'''■ f'T onos. hko tho l,i,,dc. .art ,M "r'''"'''™'""»' *''« 'l"»,voly for tho ladiofl or mSd L, "'7" ""'■"■• ■'« <"f- «at« ba,.l,el„,., are taboc^d a Hluf ' , ^^ """"^ "^ «'« hwh boyond wiiero a crtain at th^ ''i "' '""y '"" ""■ 70™, or a folding door'" Zti'ln tl','^%'"?/-'''' '''•'•«'•> p^Tox^^^^^ thoypnt thodeefc n-s tl,o bags;a.„ trncL.as li.a My ro? ^1'^f"" ' """<'- •■ vory tor,ninus of somo ra -wS, T "'l^'^ *", "'» <"'t at I 58 SAD TYBANNY OF THE FAIB SEX. ^8 I tlioso boats aro very nat-floorcd, and very fast— tlio spocd at least hilvcn inilos au Iiour, often twenty Jntl lis way our luir .. , ., . , .,..., mana^rfd at Neweaatle, tliirlv or torty miles down tlio J)(>laware, NNliere we were transferred to the sliort railway, across some fourteen uiiJes, to tlie lieaa \t^aters of the Chesapeake, on Elk river. Wo all know the exeeasivo care taken of the American Jadies while travelling:, but to-day I had a little snico of their BOinetimes takin^r advanta^^e of the awe-inspired outer bar. barians. As this boat allowed of a free cireulation to llio penetraha or tabooed cikI several of the fair creatures luid ere(!ted barricades by surrounding themselves with two and thr(K> extra chairs, their feet on one, shawl on another, bonnet on another, and some favoured beau in loud chatter on another ; in this way it was (piite evidt^nt many of the lucii (rould not sit down if they wished it, but of this they did not deii^n to take the slightest notice. With this hint I was not at all surprised, when we landed, to find myself warned oil' one ot the cars I was preparing to ascend, as exclusively for the ladies and their fnuilies ; which means anybody who ciiii scrape acHiUaintance on the most slender footing ; nor is it dilheult to enter into conversation at the ladies' end, or seventh heaven of steamers ; besides, it is extrcmiely politic and agreeable; you sit at the best (captain's) end of the tabic at nieals, and you are eyed by all the ruck of unhappy ruj minators on the wrong side of the invisible mysterious burrior, who sit or stand round the stoves, chewing their tobacco-cd ill bitter ftmcy, spitting in emulation of each other, and envy ot the more favoured and ftmiiliar he " eritturs" close tq them. Smoking is not allowed in the grand saloon ; thosi who wish to smoke go to the hayhcrs^hop, or among the dee passengers forward, or p^ade on the piazza like (jmnh outside the saloon; for such is the great breadth of i\m boats, that it admits of a promenade outside and round tin saloon behind. All the American steamers have, besides the captain, clerk in charge, who is the captain's second self (often becoiniii| captain), sits in his oilice, takes your dollars, and gives yoi your i3assago and dinner tickets. There is always a rush an crowd at this oflice, particularly if jrou have to sleep on bean Certainly the Americans delight in shoving, elbowing, au lolling on you; and the free-and-easy positions of the hoe on chairs, tables, or mantelpiece, is considered as a matt ot course, nor does the expectoration abate one jot— on t carpet — auy\\here. It was night when we landed, and I saw nothing of t town of Newcastle, nor not much of the shores going do? the river— generally ilat and monotonous— for we went dinner al the boat: not seem man mus he Jias II no an8W( liimgry m TJiey h V'fiy at tj Town, am tiu^ same ] ])assing tl mouth of miters is : wcstcTii si seated, roi inlet runs fort ho fut 8i(l(\s. Th tine merci In'nd of 81 wJuirves. I went \ water side, vessels hav forced, an wretchedly hotel, althc street, yet ] Indian Que but found il — Biirnum's its '■' Bos's " siderable fe luick-coachei hut I knew happy Jjrito is, got into c tlie victim, i down, and i <'hamber, crc clerk (nobod, a demand foi VV cu, si it ; lie can d( Victim. — " yards !" ho speed at :jatlo, thirty transferred to the heaa 3 American ico of tlu'ir outer l)ar. -tioii to llio matures luid th two and her, bonnet chatter on of tlie nu.. hey did not 1 1 was not warned oil' lusively for dy wlio t'liii ; nor is it \is' end, or iiely pohticj of the tabid nhappy rii ous burriorj obaceo-cui ', and env s" close t oon ; thosi ig the dee ke (jaavih th of tliesi round tli( BAtTIMonE. lUCKNKV COArws. Jn 1.0 answer; (.Jsicles, tiio ni, LtWrnr V *■" """ ''"'J' «<" «y at ir, rr-^d'roriX'"™'' '■"'*'°" <•"' ««"•-!- T«>v„, and hero wo wore in the d-t''''''' •'"'" '^^'<'«' *'""«'l' 11.0 san.o kindoCstoamoT Lad It ?i. n •'" """'P """'"'•ked i„ ).a»sin« tho8o low »hS M^'rvWd ^i'";!"" ^ mouth of (ho .Susqiieliann/ "fV" 1 ", ''V" ■"'S''' and tho I'm« on both >!.'■ merchant ships, and s teamZ «• "'''l''""' '"I'ooners, 1.-....1 of suiull "■all (eoastersrmiv' I ,n "^.ry «°nc''i>'aW« nliarfos. ' •'"itrs; mixed uj) witli tiiem at tho ^'^^^o!':^t^^^^^ in Pratt-street, at the vessels havin- their anno f . i ^ '^'^''^ *'^^ steamers lie (all foreed, and V' V 'ST ^t J^^ stations strictly en- ^v.vtehedlypav.dyhal?mud«nf V'"'" ?*'"^^^' *'^^ streets hotel, a]tji;,;.,.h norso a utl v bi? fj m'^ "' ^'"^^ ^^^' ^'^^^ f ^t, yet I «ness cfuite'^ S j ^^^^^^^^^^^^ another Indian Queen, ^^•llich v^as 01100+ Jlii: /, ^'^*^'^ ^^^ t'^e but found it Jmd sunk beneTtl, -i ^] 7' r^H ^^ Baltimore, -Biirnum's (unkinTst cit of t n t^/"^^'^'"^' ^'^^"'^^'^^ ffoinff it« '' Bos's " hear I 8 ill ^ jli, \r"f ' i^i ^^^^^^^' ^^«k« s.derable few " who liref^^ d Hhol ''^ ^'^i,^^ *^ ^ "^«n. liaek-coaehes and poor hoiNo. ^tli '■'''*"'• ^^^'"^7 ^f udv ;>ut I knew niy customer :;rwnlf^'^^^^^ "^^^ 1'^^"^^' ^bout! J^appy Briton, wife, ZuadVTnnid f n ^". '^?^^^^^- ^^ un- i«, Kot into one of hose Ss tho A.! /"^'^ ^^1" fnare-that the victim, albeit an oldX^M tT ^^^P^^^nded astonished ^ own, and was stand.W a £ nl ""'^ ^""f^ P"<^ ^^3^ "^'^^ ' lamber, crowded wiSitnmks^ff"? 'T*':" ^^ *^^« ^^te- ^lerk (nobody ever sees a f/l W n ' ^"'^ ^^'^^"^'''^ '''^'^'^ the -lemandfor^acloll/r^^^^^^ to, versus it;iSc::;d:^Lt;;:^„^^r-;r^ess"''"- Victi yards ! m. <( half a dollar for each sitter AVhat ! a dollar and a half for T inside. pay C/../fW Well, yes, I guess iive hundred twl .1^ il' ^^jiii just so. 60 MONUMENTS. PAPAL DISCIPLINE. of great hs to cverythi over. I tra they feed. Of course fl'heuever a Sometimes these hotels have a sort of omnibuaes to meet I '-'auso of tl tlie steara-boata and raU : touters push you in, and you find I tiling in tl in your b^l half a dollar for the ride for yourself and carpet- 1 I^^^e eve bag, or small portmanteau— all right, good for trade. I tlie possess iialtmiore has grown less rapidly than her more northern I planters ; sisters these last twenty or thirty years, no doubt it has I P^rb with i spread much over its hills, but its popalation, though greatly I «ueh is the increased, is still very much loss than even more recently- 1 uess, and i built cities ; not much exceeding a hundred thousand " "" """^ " It 18 the most Catholic city in the Union; I believe it is tiie prevailing religion ; there is a large cathedral, and many other churches of the Eoman faith. This sounds odd in the United states, where all the world are Dissenters of a thousand shades; but the Roman Catholics are gainin^a"— vex i ground at railroad pace ; hundreds of thousands have 8weUed|s"«li thicks their congregations of late years from Ireland. The firmest I ^^cst Indiei Oatliolics m the world, to a man, and the strict discipline of|us a lesson tlieir Church gives them even now in all their cities, greater 1^^™ search ] weight as a body than any other persuasion can reckon onl^^d a comic it begins to be felt north and south, and will have much to do |^^i*s- Beecht With the future destinies of this country. I To explai Ihey should have called it the "Catholic" city, and saidls^rike our c nothing about its monuments, which are two in number, andl^reat fact th no great things. The Doric column to Washington, in I beings in exi Oiiarles-street, witli his colossal statue on high, is better I ^^o^s in the ^ indeed than our Duke of York's— rather ; but one sees I of America, nothing ot the general but his Eoman toga, which does noticed, better c sit well, and puts one in mind of nobody. This humble l^^n Poor in imitation of Constantine's pillar and old liome is surely al^^a^d in the mi8t;f ('io ; the Fren-h set us both a better, a sterner example I'lo^th as free m the greater tr Ja in the Place Vendome, and in theii'l To obsc Te better taste and superior art, since the world will copyl'^^^U creatun columns. The other monument is a miserably poor affair l^^ citizens, j indeed, in art and in taste, to some officers who fell in the l^^^anding, is , ^^t Twi- 1^^^*^^ ^^« com btill there are many fine buildings and excellent houses mW¥^^ the ma the upper parts of the town, the brickwork remarkably good l^orld, high ai and a great profusion of white marble steps and polished 1^^^^^ belles g. brass about their doors. In magnitude, however, I fancy fco^cnace band liarnum s hotel is the greatest thing to be seen. Market oy\^ " dribbin si Jrligi-stree^. has all the busy features of such active spirits, P^l of their and the sh ps, though not equal to the greater cities north, l^»« upwards), still make a very handsome show. Ibig enough ; 1 Here one sees the beprinnino' nf flmf liQf«fi,i +i,,\,^ „i„ Icoml-^-l /^,,f' _ carrying with it its usual accompaniment of dirt, idleness, F^'te cravats and carelessness ; no slave, however, ever slaves at all; not P^t-rate ") loo Jialt so much as the free negroes— for instance, in Philadelphia Ifi^iodists are and JNew lork; but one may bo certain it is the one great fw<^ their ceren es to meet id you find and carpet- de. re northern ubt it has s?h greatly e recently. vd. ^ ?lieve it is and many odd in the iters of a •e gainin<]; IV e swelled 'he firmest scipline of 38, greater 3ckon on; luck to do , and said mber, and agton, in is better one sees does not 1 bumble surely a example, in their rill copy )or alfair 3II in the iouses in )ly good, polished I fancy 'arket or ) spirits, s north, ,1 idleness, ) all ; not idelphia le great NEGEO-SLAVUS— AND PEEE. Qj I have erer seen I cannot n^,^?^' '"'*^'"'i'"S J-ere. From whit the possession of aTave TW I^Ar'^^ff^".*' " "■»" «'» pbuters; too happyT hevTouU f„ ''f^ ''''''^'«-™P*°f tl*" part y.'ith them foV^Sie smaisrooln fFfI ^'''" "5 ," "'<""«' <»• such is their innate Wine«» „ f ' '^ """/ """''l afford it ; nes., and though tos^^r* Tri7"'''V"''*^'''*'"^"'^««' ^irti: of great baboons-S are S IP °\^ J"" ""> '» ™nd to everrthins they <^^nm^t^T^r ZT^^ZT f'^'"'-'^} oror. I tract .„ in evervthino- tl„, il *"*?, ""n? "^ command they feed. «™i-ytjimg— the horse they drive— the dog ^uch tricks a. maSrthe ty:",trr'^V'''^' "*'^'=?-' West Indies, and the total ruin of S^t 'n • ^ ?™ ''"^'^d »? a lesson : but let any n?rtrLl ^T'^SO, m vain read ten search for an " uS Tom "I 1 '"*'!,?" *''« States-let find a comical often „ ^ui ?"' '"' ^'^ ''"■''"' either— he will Mrs. Beechlr Sto^e': tC'"^' ''''^'^' ""''^'^ stronger th^' *aeZ'"e ^tfn^''''!^ "" '°° ^■■''' but wha may peat facTthaUh •ne^rrtcrslv^rr"'-^ ^¥^^' ■« t^« beings in existence • iuVt m V fli!i ^ '^f ' ,"" *« J^appiest fools in the world ari thecal l^'r""^ *?,' t''"^ »''«»'««* I of America, even when undefT '"™= '"'' '"^^ slaves fed, better clothed, W more i^ZT" •"'''*'^''' ''« ''^"er 0™ poor in Engknd, noTIrel^? enjoyment than our ,l>ard in the soutl as slaves ., H?^ "'*^'' !" '^''■•^' ''aJf so north as free coloured peopL ^ "' ''^^'S^d *o *«= tl^e |M ort„7esf'^l'''F^^'-^,^^^^^^^^ »e funny, » citizens, and whjre ttfw fteir'^i^'t '''°^ShoU taudmg, 13 quite as good is a f .,1 "??'' '■expectable little has cominon sens! to ^^vr *•■"". "^ occasions; so »pi»g the mannersrS exnressTol, "''7}°'"' "^ ^'^''J and »;ord, high and WtSw'^ fi"'^ ^"^^ of the white black belfes go to their ''fostrll-lfT^; '' egi-egious : the sold lace bands, rosesJiHes rn^hl t •*"' "^"f "^^ '"■ ""slins, h " dribbin snow," ^d white snt^v-""''? '""« kids, white eel of their treieiruMtteWf ^■''^^''' °^"" '^^ (mo upwards). andwhHe satm »l,i^ 1, ("'^ng a straight k enough / thefr wool Zla^T^^t" *? fi ^'' '^""^ Jli^te cravats and trousers 'eberv Hn'^ ' *^'"* ^^^^"^^'' "^ l^ut tto oeremouio4Xj:&S Sris'^rteHi 1 62 COLOURED FASriONABLES. supoose tvro negroes (" coloured gentlemen") meeting in one of the Quaker city streets ; dirtily dressed as labourers, a few patcliei, and even rags : but pretty ^vell oft"; one, perliap ZZ^ r .?'• 7^ ^'f-^'"^ .liorse; the other, a sawye^o; 'occtlJnaUo\s"'^^ "'^^^^' ^^^ ^^^^^"^ ^ ^--^ ^t .nlT^'^^.T''-'^ '''' *^'^^^^^ S^'*"' ^''^^^^^"g t^^^ir ^^-^^ito teeth, and rolling their eyes about, they eome to a full stop in fac of each other, and burst out in a loud laugh before a word i said each swaying about, and holding his sidrs. Mr. Jefferson S. Skunk.^Bre^fi my heart-dou't— dat vou he! he hoT ^"""'^^^ ^'^^' ^^- ^"^ I^ow-yah! /ah! Mr. Augustus Q.Quash/.-Wel], I nebber seed de like' ^VMk {holdlngjiimself up).^^^Yc\\, do tell ! Where away now, dis timei^ You am after dat ere job of de old ma W way up dere at do depots ? ' Q/m%.-If dat don't beat Lady Suffolk! (AfastJwrse) Where you get to--say-last night arter de fust quadrH I seed you a startin' artor Miss iretty--no ? Yah, yah ' He he, he ! {Here theij hoth )er fum Congress P bkunk.--\)o tejl ! well, I is heerd r.i much. {Makes facc^ \ But look here I'se but middling 'trong dis mom n^^ ,, ,' . ""I' ii»ivAV4nii^ nuji'; ais morninir • in lerT'lZ^j; "; ^«n«idenimble, I tell you-dis way,' look ^fiyn, iXedeuks temps h\it can -o it some at de polka, sav bomehow I comed slick down and 'train my leff sh n. (S I\^A^.oTJ -'"^ "^'v ^^''^^^^^^ '''J'' 1^^"^^"^ ^"ost do finest n"^!:::,^"^^^'''^ ^^^^«- ^^l'^ --^ ^-^l^^t no cold? dni^rTf'-^*""F''"' ^''"^' y'!)\'^^^sJ'tilv.«lH. am first-rato. I don t know she am powerful mad cfis niornin'. 1 tell von, ^M^wir; r" '"" t «'-^»"^Hn ob she lily white sunuinfino glub, Mhat bhc drop, somehow, afore Mussu Assa CuAy baud 't'm down t five cent p Skank.— case Mhy, ] [partner; g] |ob me — he iuvay along land ^Aorse : jiimd ; and i pJiat persisi peril te rem? Quash?/.- liin on de fig cat-fish. "V^ I'ei -» bricks. at C.'iauge d Skmik. — ( look dowr irt, touch dmw.") I should e «liether free 'uigger"wit do witii ., all a very lig perhaps answ ^plyes, their i Hngeniouslj ''I'hia, man^ ''""I at preset '«ss apparer however, i natter \idiere, iw. At the I'jout on week I'ley dress up i "'lety meetir iiiKster in grea '"d two, full d ^cessions of iladeluhia. exactly, but '""■'1 the print stivuj. l^esides ilioii I'cir chapels ai 'luiiiy very , lumcrous sect,) ,. i'l r or ■«(! wny, more 'tickler spom t' °ti ,'''""■ ^^Hufliug, |b me-he, he, he! S here ' itff- *''"' '^l d« «™cl out teeth and lanw along, Mas considerumbirbo,Hm.M°"'-J'''^'',T'' ™™«l top 111 face |a" and agin, „-;« mL gS' uT™'™ *■"/ "S^^ '° *' kliat nersisa to offer him n™, „ i ™"* ^'(J a oiR nieeer orlitt; remark as not Vreeable to T""" '",''??'' ™'^'"«to f Quash;-! nebber Ef e?d de "l-e ^tT^' ^'^I' mm on de fish-wharf nnd ,!„ ij- -^ ""»''' «»* nigcer hn d de like! |at-ilsh. Well^C mn^fT '' '"'■'} '^^"'' ™ ^^^gari - veil dio-brieks. GoodLm-nTfa m', 'i"^'' g-^tohanTdem lit Cliango down dere ? •> '"^' ^'"' ?»" dis ebenin' hereawavl **'"'*— Good niornin' is W„ii t , , , look do«-n, anyhow Giteniv^5 t'*"?']'"""-' ^ «P™t li(^re away old man's, 'ast horse.) quadrille P yali! He, u seed dat juess — uo. it dat ere in ever.) Iieugh !— j^u J— ■■; ingeniously jrets rid of fl.,. TT "*" "."" wiute uitfircrs " Vell.|e]phia,nianj:^earsago^h^^^^^^^ ^^^n iu'phiJa- usguv mc l"f u at present, better loo]SS?nf ^'"'' '"''^^ numerous inted Avidf-Iess apparent poverty. Wliat fll f f '''■''¥?'^ ^<' ^^1 times imimly off' liowever, tlieir nature to iL . ''^^ ^ ^^«ow not. It P latter where, or how ma Vl^oI' r ^^^^^^^ improvident, no L-../«....)|ee. Atthesamo iCIoweJr r^'*H^ n nVwr . ,,.„ 11)011 , nn «.«^1, J„.. "^' "OWeVer CUrtv or « ntr.>«l„ *1._-_ .ik;';;}|u.tciiiig;;;;?,— --^^^^ u (p^J':''*^«'Mch.ess,wit]iw n l/X^^^^ ,/— --"two much tot ^ I»«^« imnnfi..<| ^nuuy very orte,, (Parric dnHv ^ V^^\^^ »''« Ay haud|""iH-uiis sect,} aa •'l^i'l^^^. S ^^^^''l">^i«'*^, the mont I 'oo^i iambus scrmou" qu the origin fm- 64 FACE OP THE COUNTRY. iTlo o '' o ''^^,^f .™^". ''' ^^'""^^ «^ do face ob dia circiimlar clobo. One tiling is most certain, they are the most laughing race on eartli-the happiest, particilarly the slave I>^nn'"lf'^ r^". no cares whatever beyond the instant-no thought, and not an idea ; and it is well it should be so. Th awkward and the worst part of this much-vexed questioi pertains to the Anglo-American race ! The attempt to mix t vain-alraost unnatural. Pity they were ever brought here- true. true--a great pity; but the fault lies ^.ith nSne livin. And mark the glaring mconsistency of our days on the Afriea'Ii' coast— vye tax ourselves to do a most outrageous wronir ' Tlio eJiiefs who conquer in their eternal petty T^•ars, if not able t sell tliem on the coast (to save their lives !) kill them on the 81 ot! and our officers and men, who a^o yearly decimated by the coast fever, have even been sent on shore to iight and kill the conquerors~to prevent their selling tliei? captives - burely the universal madness and confusion of ideas of % whole world IS not at all exceeded by what one may see any morning on the other side of Westminster-bridge-iif Bedlam We all know that Baltimore, like almost all the chief Unite btates citicii IS not the capital of the state, but a much smaller town. Anapolis once a fashionable place, about forty miles lowerdown theChe8ape.vke--whichnotody ever hears any thin aft^r^r]'"!^ ^^ i^*" they have estabUshed a naval sclioo alter the fii^hion of ours at Portsmouth. It is presided ove by a commander, with a lieutenant under him. ' I he face of this ;n hole country, after passing the Susque- hanna, is flat, sandy, and poor. The forests on the sea-board are more frequent-there Is more w. dness in the scene ; tl. planters or larmers' hou.es stand further from each o her' heir fields, clneriy of Indian corn, have the appearance of nlo^'nr'rTV ^'^t,«^i^'^'^^^ding year makes manure tliei more essential for rotation crops, and even rest, begin to Ic J their effect. Thence the growing anxiety about guano, anjl the great .tir lately m the mercantile shipping work toThnf o^?^' """"^ ^ '"Vi ^''' ^^^^^ ^'^""^^^ i« much inferio, innJt fh !''' T7 r'*¥r' '^^^'''- ^Carelessness and wa.t mark the track of slave labour ; indeed, universal indoleric besets the and master, and slave. Anywhere out of the towns It IS the first tiling that strikes one. It etmally applies to Virginia, across fho Potomac. Thirl, vears ago her Indian eorn-lields scarcely did more than ivi^i her cattle and her slaves ;* the only source of profit was hei tobaccc, which still requires rich, new lands. To !»- * • Thl8 mo.H 8woet and noiirlsliltiK of prrains U 8o irood for man an »i.a.^ «n,l .0 loved- by the negi^s. that once, when t^o cro fa " Virginia ' and beaul rivers, va and valua owners, (j market fo few of ou less talkec no shippir trade up t inlets, tin of this, tb settled sta I take til country; i street, wit gentle ris( grumble al coniparati^ a stand-sti] ing the sp M lio had b( arm-chair 1 loft oft' to I who had ec " I gues here!" /•Would I'm paid, n don't, if wc At this ] sontly wo n a good oppi I'arm we sa) pent-up wn He now < for a swind learn him tc and wire fen tii(!n back oi " You ar'i " perhaps he " Peiliaps jvB, BiiVR. aw It was ev no wonder- breakfast. This railrc LEAVE BALTIMOBE. gg less talked about, and does not go v.o fast alie;ifl ^, .'l' ff ' mlo « the Whanoc the Kock, and Potomac 'rivers*^ Imt iUed stefwU'lZ'' naturally the very fi„e,t ofZ eariy BcuKQ States, It ^iJl be worth sayinir more hereafter arm.d,air behind ,„c, fro„,*tSrmo™ft t t^oi 'ou rplu"', Ic t oft to address himself to the " brakosmm," rl,Z^' >' who had eo„.e in to put the stove lire to riBht <''^''''''»*"''»)' j_ J,,guess I d hnc you all five hundred dollars for this " Would you, though r was the reply. •• What's it to mo I I m pa..d, move on or not. Wlmfs tie odds I lon't ITi A .' .'i •"''' '''""■ "'"' °"' »' t'"» till July " l caic, i At tins retort my citizen looked excessivelv irrim ■ nr,. scntly wo moved on, slowly cnouirh LHviii.rnll Vn,. *' ' ^ « good opportunity'of looih"g at it^o L e .Sv'';^^ ''^ arm we saw the whole way, ,7hich served V rvttehe lient-up wrath of the gn.mpy , itizcn. ' """ thou back out, (uid cheat the univernal world »'' ^ ' ^ lou ar'^ so awful hard ou him, mv dear'" saJ.l ihn ^\i\ "perhaps he couldn't help it." ^ ' ''^ *^^ '''^^' J' ?^T1LI'~F.^^^^^P«' wouldn't I hauK Iiim like a do.!- jvn, ciu;ri. uwiiy i - - — o- It was evident she couldn't soften her better half- linf breaSt""~^' '"""^^^ ^"' '^'^^ ^'^ ^^^ itart^d wiS h!e lias been easily made, but id very hard to kc akfast railroad Th up 66 BAD BAILEOAD. Capitol the hn^^^Av ^1 '^V*f'""Ston, not far from the 40 W sonl, / *'"' P'*"" '«'''''' ™. "o^ a large town of t* e Zrth „n^ /T ^5" T"^ "'^ *'"» deration, looking S glance tT. Jf *' ?* '"!? the whole town and conntrylt a nortll^T^fu A ^^'"^^ between the two, at the extreine ^^hingSa^rt^-^trtV^^^^^^^^^ "-'^-l -''^ (though a itldy tWe'^^fr) '^ ,*^,-•n ^W^S Potomac over it to tlw. v;£' ■ ? ^' '''*''. ''' ''"''so of a mile Ions itlvirgin for*Ts S"^?''''',^ "PP"'"?! ««" '""'""g »« wild i^ turbcl W tw vL "/'"' P<""'.1'«1 Indian. Jived nndis- bro ho--"T X'Jl thT^vI'/f'"""'' P''"™'l'ropic English white a.1her;;faTood"hilf ''^■r''*?^ ^°^.^ " ^-^l^otel,"and guide, I started off down hill ofl,r^r^n■ ^fr -^^"^^utJice my flud chalked-out stroouH^ \ T ^ ^ . ^^^^^ cross-roads paratorv till T Jf !: ^ n'^'l "^""'''^ ^^^^"« cuttings, pre- cimfortLlo?hCany I had vet^^d Ti'lST '^VM rf lower down the AvoLn ;.. i V ^^^^ JVationnl Jlotel, ing an mmen e ^i nT^'. V^?' V^'^T" ' «"^^ ^'^^7 ^^^o build- little f.Xr o^ i ain mnvt l"^ i"1 ?*"'^^r alf the rest, a niui-ii-nnii-Mirppf" nti.i fi.« d ' i ."■' : " '^ ^'^ a-n.-itT. .>ut M..-';;X^:^z;^i^i^-^ t teS navy-yar there bej or three 1 the west, on a level the chalk visible in biiiJt, lies with com] the avenii (distant ai west side < built on. speculate Vii'ginia w the way. The day seen. H'a amidst an i and their ^^ four. Som and rough, never smooi seemed equ, were drivei cattle about land of nigg enough, ovo ever stirs oil iiibuses run iurther on t^ tlc'livered be trived in tlie liis casli-box iiiat shut, to hasty exits, v I should Ji land on the i "long the Pc liver to the w J'ound to the Ji'n'unt wildnt ihi} Potomac turesquc rivoi AT WASHINGTON. ^io|:;:i^^-^xs?':?.s-^,^ 67 to tlie Pontiac lii\ er, or e other half of this ^and ..u.x»x avenue '^stuary, at a point two or three miles upper side -, central avenue or three blocks and ro//^f ,*'"', '^"P'*"' gardens ; two tbe west jusroutti tr';x'ou';w t?r ^*V *° on a level with thn PoT^if^i " ' ^^ ^"^' Platform above, tho ehalked^ott bts^X^^^^^ few isolated houses on visible in that direction ^H^.i^^^^^r gf^^^^d are all that is built, lies along orthep;«f«^ ^^/fu ^^^^ ^^ *^^ *«^^i yet with comparatfvdy ver^tw it^^^^^ ^^-'^^«» the avenues and crosP^Wfi f' '"'f^'^' ^' 7^* ^^ilt on (distant about a mil? ".^^f westward, towards the river west side of tL-so^eL^aTte .^^"' "^^eed, is the built on. There are f tm J^Sf "^Z^*"""* ^^^^ *^^^ Partially speculate on/and stiJl Ip^^^^^^ ""^ ^'^"^^f ^^^^ ^^^^ left tj Vii-giniawooCtSueted froml^^^^^^^^^ Tf ^^^ «^« the way. "^i-uciea irom the hotel and shop side of amidst an immeLTowdSl. lnl^"¥'- ^ ''''^^<'^ on and their wagons moXdrnl^l"*^' '^''"'«-«P«n f"mers four. Some with Cses of In^l"™" ',° 'P""' °'' *»'" ""d and rough, as i/a S^'e^^b^'^fd tlf^'if oxeessivoiy lean never smoothed them down^L. lu ^ ■"'^H "^ ^'™«' I'ad seemed equally rougS ^'Sri^Vii''''''^'' 'H'" ""«''»» were driven Iby dwkies who i!fi ? , *'"', T'''^'' "<' t™ms oattlo about witLtS^emCv^'^ """' ^"f^""^ ««^i' land of niggers-none buTsrvenve'; dlZTft^ » "«' enough, oven, of walking for theiH^LlH,'^ , ^,' S'"K ' "o* ever stirs oil' his horse • the whnil A , "'''"' ^o P'™ter nibusca running T the WhiMW ''''"'' T,?iive w,U om- further on to Georltown.f*? "'" "'J'' -l^eaaury, and 'l-livered befor; yTget 'ou 1^^'^'!'^ '""'■'' "^ «« »n<^ irived in the roof™ o*'drivTr ,.^^1.^ ^^ """^^ ^"^^ "on- iua eash-box as he reliiw, In/lll "^ ^ , ^?"f '''""'«« out of fi«t shut, t« F«venrm'; .. t u, "S ■ ;;'^^^^ ''r^'^.""' -^oor liasty exits, without takilfg leave ^ travellers," or over- "long tho Potomac, and ."X^- S ™ "'^^Z"" .".■• fi™ '"iles i-iverto the wooded an(rrnti,',.Vn,."i,iV'r''i'""^? ■"'"*"' ^oni tho round to the cast a d Ho K lln^P''' ''{"^/'-""""X it a 'runt wihhu.s, above ^^(1^ wW ^^ «"J ' lie iVtoamc becomes a most beauS'fn .?, " ^"^" """'"'ff. '"-auo river; While ovvoJi^Z^^JZ^a^Zt:;^ 68 smithson'8 legacy. dozen 'buses and hackney-coache, whU drtre down to mel ffew at anv 't;m»> greater part of the arrivals by water Bboufd think, well be conceived, to the memory of WasW,',/ s. ;teSdltr.Jr£X"K^? "?''"'' not the fear of tlie B^stonian bS'^' CrJv, f/IV'T nnle-stono before your eyes ^ But t^Ve ll Cat ttt S d.n-otu,, .t t„ ,„,,,ti.i„g „^^,^j ^^^ ^^^ menca, ^nsU^udJ " l>ie, and endow a college— or ti cat !" Prom wlienee como nil rich/^o f ^h- ^ — i -r, . o.<.osoenL, but ^tii^Pt^^ J^l^i^-^'^I^S^ not kln( are gru: without there h another pinnacle minster Dr. Rei( halfmilJ folly, an Mr. Rufi The 01 Geor^etc the Trea 1 »th V(t; on a geii grounds, manner c s< n else pretty ne good enoi bronze p( Captaiji I before Bu post-cap ta At Geo out half-\\ walked on great cant side (endii Washingtc Little o; and its ass( years, yei wliarves; j entirely tc White Hoi her biir, ]o| <'orn, with of those so boat landin by tvA'o or or no rent), iniuisious, ■' Virii,nnia hai in short, Maryhind's sister iStatea iced off in ieep-rutted !ecl, a small above the )ps, timber rves there- The half m to meet md rails), a pitch of 'Ten eleva- *oint up to the water der about ;heir drive the shape Uexandria by water Qto town, isay, they 'ery other 1 to make 3 point I icross the tutc, an d square stone; as Barer the a obehsk 3 can, I rVashin^. out sixty lave you 'eet high that one. GEOBGETOWN. to trace without that broad utTliv it Z^l^T^ ^^^y- '^thout taste, there is no onrroom & ff ''•' ^''^'' '"^"'■''<'- Th.y say another thing in smTill 11 n '^- ""T'^^yi much sucfx pinnaeled M-elttl^r- "d 'tin Ufo i SIMg^bread! jackstraw's, minster! I do no" ndeed w fL/"*? P""/ *'''''S '" W*""' Dr. Eeid to l,lo» hot and .-W t ' '^'^ '"'^<' «<>' « kmdrcd halfmUlion; but tW are vnl In ^ ^ a«;ay with an extra folly, and blunders and^.^I^""^ m reckless extravagance, %^ti^,r''^^^^^-^T^?^^ o^ChL^ '' '-'''' -Lue omnibuses are verv eonvpni'or,+ +i ""^^^j* Geor^retown (throe or foL^T ^ T*t ^^ ^*^® ^>^« « legs to manner of our approa 'Ls amlll""* T'" *'"*'l^' "*'''■'• *^o 8. n elsewhere. XforeTl.e pJ^i ', "?" "nytting I ln,ve pretty near the road there kfl '''" ' '"'"*''• "'"<''' ^t^ds good enough not *- be lautrhL n> ""rf '"'*"° ,»'" J""'"''''™, bronze pc?petrati.,u8 '5 „-l Ji ^""?/" '.""<''' <^ "nr own Captai,! Levi, late Iv Ho» I'T *'jS ^'^^ "^ " ■"'^"l officer, bctie Bueki .gham Ma^; the friftl^f"?^ "' " ''™''^'' «'"'»« post-captain! ^*'' *'''' S^'^' *» t^ie Queen of an English ouf LVfZ^ uMhrcSstw^ T"S ^'"' I^"'^' ""d I got walked on upZrds^and down i b^f '"'n *'"''?"^^^ »'°P' ""d years, yet there is 1, ,? ? '"'^ ""' ^row much of late wharves; anH grinds ilourtTf • """f '"S.-tfade at its entirely t<5 ita hi., ■ ' "" '' '^ "Ot go ng to give in Whu7Hous^l''^esfrt"'Sr'' "r f "'- -'"ti^e '"■'• big, lop-sided 8 sterw„7„,«™' ■" f '"•y'*"'! town wlien ■■orn, with I planter's old brick Zi''"*,''''' "''''i'' "^ ^"dian «!• those solii old brick house, SH"" ''f '^,''"'' *'""■« (o"" boat landing) in ruinrldTe„v„ r''f ^f,? '"''«""' '''« «'«'■«- by two or three fim, li^ of Zd l", ""1""" ^'/" "'''"'''ted orno rent), on the model o?T„t! r„f^'^ r5^,:J^;'^,:i:Z,!:lZ il! 1 70 GEEAT CANAL AND A(^TrET)FCT. '^n nor h laoo at he head of the fine doublf flil/of "Ls fon i^A '", ,o?»"r of .^onie captain and officers of a fri "ate Wiedat 'lr,poh. They had better have let it alone TU setting of this himbering piece of crudity in an oval Lin „f green water, intended as a fountain, strites one al anvt ni rather than ornamental. The vie^ on all sWes fiZ thi landsome north terrace is very magnifiSent, particu arly from the cupola above the roof, embracing the Tiills and woS .eyon,f Georgetown ; the river, to where it loses itself amot the mountains in the blue distance; the whole town as on f map at one 8 feet ; the pretty wooded hilla to the east and towards Blacensburg; then, to the west and soiitirae™, Alexandria, with the woods of Maryland beyond the ifavv yard and arsenal, across the Pontiac. Altogether it t"," most interesting panorama; but, in descending oni's mud descends too, and I couldn't help speculating^ on the ™^t cijumference of empty lots, growing? more valuable every riiey are to be had of many private individuals- at tH. moment emigrants with a littfeVoney migirmake t£ <^rZtT ^rT*^ "'"""• ''' '■'"'y could aflbrd to ho d on a certain time ! I muse on what all this may be a centuiT lience ; when all this plain will probably be covered as cloS m brick as London ; when every rood ot" ground wiJl be S a fortune ; when a tiny yard, or bit of g^-den, will be held ! so veiy aristocratic, so very distinguished and agreeable and so impossib e, except to dukes, earls, and mmiWre's-I should say the richest citizens. muiionaiics-l One has but to look back to the days, so very recent as oil our second (Jeorge-a mere ycsterday-when^the whole o ourwcst-end and north, and south, ,/ere out-oSown fields' even beyond lower and market-gardens ;" where donkemi browsed, and boys played at cricket, in my day is now ' Belgravia; and just beyond, late in the seventoen Lndred ' men were hung for lialf-a-crown where now TybiZk lifS her head, and pours her modem gold into a biship'^Zke I It IS a great fault to be disheartened, and thinking^fCeif !!!Jl''^.i^*°° <;Hfor anything; so I pursued tTe w' ,.j.^^>..at„c ,uea uown lue steps into the garden and alouL/fiii excellent flag paved walk, (such as we sliould have hxKi I'ark, instead of grinding gravel and the London Jay") toS sato where the 'buses stand as a terminus to theijtoi l! I. On the war— first up at the steps (out the navy, a frigate, one. The al basin of < anything from this larly from nd woods elf among vn. as on r tyranny as a two-year old biby iTav^tS tf oundtawi" '?r^ t»W''s= «t«"« hotel ^weWmmenso lound tables ; the markets at Washington ar- verv TnnntlW Skes'^of •' ™fP^Hf "°''"°? '^ 'V Sood, anrthlTabTepar^ r^V^^X-^JT:.,^^"?" t'lo trieksty yellow bovs (mulattn„, eonSt'edTaSf;\|;'"bm ot Sr '. ''^"'1 ^1- ^^^^ ^"^^^ perhaps^eforo^r^^ -rlSrSo^'hi 74 PABKY m^uOO-VBa, ba^ckod out to their storoa, to visit tlio bar. or smoko a Now, though 1 feo tlioBo animals porforco. it littlo avaik^d »w to Kottinjr any givon thing with tho smallest particle of caloric remammg iierc^optiblo to tho tasto. ^ With a vast (urcumferonco of white tablecloth, salt-ccUara niul toothpicks before one, nothing whatever eatable is put on it--aud ten mmutos. or fifteen, must bo omijloyed pat oiitW pickmg ones teeth; one may fancy tlio sir/un ^^0^ among the dozen quambos wli keep out of sfght exSn^iS witticisms at the expense -ob de white ni^^s dey got S ^3ed any how." Let us suppose it at IroakLt. the who £ ?S« n ^''""""^ woolly-heads collected round tho tea and cu3llee coppers, or boilers j both liquids nothing mo"^ nor less than coloured hot water, the taste very much alike, und^o oxecrable, that I send my fellow mildly back with m; cup to beg It may be, if possible, a little stronger. ^ ^ nnn!?^ *'^''^- , ''^' ""^'^ ^,''"*' '^""^ «^^^ ^^^'^P whatdey say jus come from do ole country, ho say dis cup tea is nutting C SNou^bal(Sam.~-Yiih ! he, he ! why you no toll him must got use to it, any how ! {Fill, the el/agam f.om Z sZl ^'^f:^f^:;2!^^ f^^ ^^' ^^"^ ^^^ '^ '^^^' ^-)-^Yhy, dat am de way as is all bded to suit majority, and neber complains none ! No pleasiim dem catawa.ipjim olo folks, I guess, lie, he, he, ho ! ^ Mv imjj.-^Well, any how, must gib one sofF. I 'snose nf)f f n Hou'ir! ITV '?''. T.f' '^">^' ^^^' ^-' ^-•' ^Vhat seem to you he say beside P dat de room am so dark him can't see de way to him moiit (At this a cAorus oflavgMl)%lll hini bess feel de way ! (Fresh bursts.) ^ ' Gmger Snowball (head wag),— Look here I dem 'ere ole (home). Well, look hero I what 'stonish some, dero is fuss rate membrums ob Congress neber gives no trouble 'bout de Tl "^[. ^f/^^'-^' r'; ^»^^ii"^^-«J^ouldn't wonder ! What ort Ob tea dis blessed ole man got used to P if am so cruel W 2^^J"r ^^" ""' ^ ^'''''' ^^" y^^ {ChoT^of ,..5^i?^i(f_?f '^"'•'f* (^ ¥!^ff^^^ '^y t^^ct at last).-Bve.. i^Z^^^■A''" 7 y^sreraay Jimi say de beefsteak was touffh as cow-hide, and cold as dog nose, he, he, he! (JS chorus of chuckles.) » *iu* yu^rana^ Of course my fresh cup of tea, which at length my imp r smoko a ilo availed mrticlo of alt«ccllars, ) is put on l)atioiit]y going on Kclmnginjir ley got to lio M'^liolo e tea and '" nor leas 0, and hO ny cup to y say jus tting jbut ' Samp- im must ^Jie same and half, led liard ' as is all pleasing 2, not to at seem jan't see Well. 'ere ole at hum is fuss- bout de lat sort 'trong, ms of —Bresa 1 tough Grand CLIMATB— FLOWEng. IS I brings mc, is exactly the same as tho ln«f «« «,-*i :lynoss lie says, ;' M^ssa. dis^^ Ivuo^ ttZVt^^?^^ 8amp8( find .up fuHt-ratc any).;;: 1 toiry;:."'" ■ °™i''™ • ■ J°" I up l.-«i . and thoy do the iS' ZiK ,/ t'ir'''" "" i, «• «7 ''OtUBlnit th,. nuteidos of tl.o „„' fir I,„ild renontly in Kii.rland to oTh.^;.?^ i ."■'™'™"<'0' Ho lias been mondous frosts are much miuir ^h„? T ? ^f ^''' .*^"'^' *^^- bo an exception • and T Wn f 'i i ^!T *^"' ^^"^^^ »"ay I'ofore the irth-west blasf?/n l?""^ «t, Canada before I fly sinni T ^„cf \T ^^^^ *^ *"® south, down tho Miasi/ ^V'aAingtoSaLrXTcuid. Wt P"" '"-'"'Wng oftho of the [?nion!lCt willfMow i^^1:,U^^ *»''" ""•^™ Ifstin 8i«ht, down thePo2a7arAlexa,fdl''r''f "' '^''" It IS nothing to say that there iTnn J! i <-! -"^ ^ S""'" "'"• Srocn to be seen Iteent at iL \v^ -f "IV *'""'^ "' " ^'^ °^ .«len, for the -mCfbct t rn'^p ;,ith1„r''aS^^ No wonder for theTlavc s If , W " anywhere, nor a flower. b«t the very clrpiU^^and wor^rrf V"™' ™'^ "''™'-''' ™uld do it- 80 thl thw" imS bh nlT'-'' "■«' ""g'r' 111" month or for life. n.:"„ f 1,™?°'!'" ".' ''^ *''.<'"' T^^^rs, bv llmmonthorfor iTflo'' ?! '"*l'7»ioit3, as their masters, b^ U^T:!!,'''^^^}3.''^f tli^^msolves much too lazv to \.A ■'"■'. ■^"^' ""^y P^ant particuiariy cared foris a wPPrl" 76 CHAPTER VI. UP THE HUDSON. ''''"8i''lAJn?v;/''"^'''^' "^'"^ ^^^ «^'^^^«^«' TORONTO-DOWN THE ST. LAWUENCE, MONTREAL, QUEBEC — BACK BT LAKE rHAMPrV!! AND BELLOWS FALLS. TOWAUDS BOSTON. CHAMPLAW Betubning to New York as a starting-point for the north T uWh n'n r^^'"^^-"' of railway from BaltiLre to pSpt-, ^^hlch only requires the help of steam-boat to cross the si guehanna at ifavre-de-Grace-agood large town on the banb of his fme wide, but shallow river : even here near itTmouth tlio banks look very inviting, contrasting pleasantly witTtt more level and mor« sandy parts of Marvfand nnT«„!f i • more of Pennsylvania in Hs^ooks its c^^^^^^^ for they are here close on their nort^Sn bS Tk steamer a large and .^ast one, shot us a.ross in a twinklint tnoughthe stream 18 at least a mile wide. We passed S; Schuylkill ,al)but four miles below Philadelphia Du!t^L f four horses to sundry divisions of a long Sin the su^^^^^^^^^ and trotting into Broad-street. and to' tl^e ^rne;^^^^^^^ « v«?L '' *^'' fire-engine brigades of the city, dran^ up a.va'.ed our arrival m all the pomp and circumstance of banners uniforms,, bands, &c. 4is muster X^wromo the Ealtimorian brigades, or some of tlieir own return co^ panies-for now is the great season (the fauj cf tS S reciprocal from city to city ; an.i ,ar cars were crammed w'^ those annijiiiators of lire in full dross • f !.«;,. i.i„ i i i iron and brass-boundl^ of flowers-somo had nosegays-all presented by tliTitl h^n. ari iX'^'' '"'^^VT^^o.. wasLcessivel vSr^bars-' imi ^l"^ ''''^. charged at starting at the various bars and "changes," and rushing out at evorvi R .tion as we came along to keep up the rum and wSj ardour. However, 1 observed nnf mm ^e ii! i! ^^^^^N very pardonable elivation.^rd tlufy' tidied t fct ancT formed on one side of the rails^in BroaLtS a ^^^^^^^^ Tlwf 1 ^^/^^^/''^y' t<> the great delight of all the world I think it was on this occasion T saw a company from Jersey , dressed m the oxfiot. uui^-^'t^- ^hi-^ --"j i f 'tt ^'2 '}.Y»«i<'. ^if^re, uxvcsfci m iiie oxn.ot nnif..^, n,u,^ .^'j buff; oi VVasiungton and the ])atriot armies vvhrAuumeml heir indeiKMideuce-long.Hkirted coats, knee I rm-l es di,'^ topped boots, and enormous cocked huts, witrin immen^: JOUENET 2T0ETHWABDS. n —DOWN THE CILA-MPLAHf e north, I iladelphia, B the Su8- the banks its mouth •■ with the partaking rythin^— er. Tlio twinkhng, •assed the putting-to » suburbs, of High. Irawn up, stance of ' welcome urn com- leir visits ined with lazed mid ' wreatlis their fair cesflively g at the at every I whisky ►eyond a Ives out, 1 perfi'i't principal 3 world, layed, I iiquerni I. M liitt)- the earth nrol ,ii i^ .'• Such changelings wc lords of ftaft»r»irV ''!°8''' ™ *""«■• rireumstance, and place' dresses wftl*"3"rS"° ^reat abstraction to Consider ou^ absurd aStrntL'" *''" n"' "'" *">" P"««°t """'"T. «« %% r' cSed «l,£,f ^f? ''',. ^T' .'•i^mous epaulettes, Ac. Why Med a ti T ''/" *'"' janntiness oi high fashion tvny need a verj- handsome young fellow, an officer ton te" blv oS ff™P-«P''"H'?(*^''«« ^«'« volnntoersr^k so little inferior to re^lZo^riLSallV' "^ " thorn arc 1;^d°rT™l ;;fr^ ^^ r^'^ 'i"^ °^ ™'' "» «»«* of across thi, ^1 T)^"' " ? .P""^ *»"''' ' ''''"l St"'"" WancL across this arm of the sea inlet, nu te charmmir This is tllo south end ot this pretty island. 'aU alongShannel 1 to ™7v^? ""'/n '^"'■y ^ "°«'l ^y f''™'^. vilTages, couXy seate and Tillas, till as it nears the bay of New York there ir* perfect cham of them, with their gardens ov grounds ooml^ W to the water, where they keep boats Measure oTt? Sir ^/if'^r"*''"'" ."""^'f •"''"« "'i^" with ?h 'o^st? is one <".; :;? """"^ '™'''r-»'' "^e tlie fast-X^,„^ r J"";- di'8cnl>cd-very complete and very last— il ough not equU to the north ari ! cast river 01.07 in ..c and speed: one of which, the Isaac xWon?lyi„g at the bo dfr„^'i*"' ^"'^' '''K''""P- ^ immediatcF^ent on S wf ' ^ , ?< "■"* «TK '" «*"' '■»'• All^auy in an hour ■itter wc got to tlie -vJiarf at tlic ivest tide of the Batterv f bad no time to look at the wooden '•<■«.«," .-oso by, nor it^ garden, which consists perhaps of a few llower^mSs f, i ' vuv xHinuy-MaJk. ling castle, however is tlin nT.ina cksen for/*, and receptions ol' iuistriousVlra, gors'^nte ;jding: It contains a liall or larg.. assembly-room; her" lateiy, Jenny Lnid was so obstrrperou. ly and exne is ivnlJ w.Wed. _i>nd here, since llandcd, Icossutli tried to^oerl?: iitr''- ""i -'■"",' '™" ,**"''W '"•■ his enthusiastic recowtion iiuit the ,™wd made such ai. uproar in iheir «rcat Tcv that L was fam to sit down, merely (after many v« ifeiForU to o heard) obsorvuiK, that as they would not^.^ him. Cw^uld Id ISAAC »EWTO» StEAMES. liberty whTnot t^ ' A^'""- '" ^""^«'''^'" «"'' «•« Wt of garUn hero, in' Te" ho" yet KwstTof ft r''",^™- "none so low to do him rererennp" P.! i '>^J^}^^'>a<. now Poor man- om n„f loii • , —-Punch and all are mura i Ms of Co,umbia"!lf^"'«'. '"'a'"*^' nothing loth, the no™; quietly at Ba;~ "'"'"* '^"^™ '"*"'•' ""^ «»» ^ow^ leavrwl" YoA'SbanV"'' """* "">«nificent steamer, (thonshnot 80 brr-^mTfl ^T'T?''=°'"S-- one. the Troy ihelfaac?fewto?;e;e^r4r?foiiof *" """" 'S''^''"" cabin. I have spo en rf tL tfi i l'««9'"'g<"'8, decic and river steamer^, Xt X m,it sat a in TTI "^ '^^'"' g"-""' fitting out of thi« vn™?J^„ ^ " ^°\^ °^ *•>« extravagant the ifew World ThJ ?°' ,"?"■ ""'^ """P^od i" i"' .e by fabric iroroi of WlS r^Vf"^""" "/*'''' '"""^"''« style, springi™ UP in m-n^^lf a white gromd, in the Gotluc profusely gflt than iCf w ^''''?'; ^^""i} *'^^''^'» f""*- mow Hill ; tlfoTkvli^hta aWn f -^"^P"'! ',«""'"T^ »* Strawberry room doors Sly parniJ^^/^^^^ ^lass, the range of sta^ chairs, lounge? &rt™p,1'r^''''i' I"™"' "t*"™™'. am- afloat was over finer' and al7,W I*"*'' " "'j'"^' "»th»'S and dehcacy as to p„innf l'<'''^-<=t'e'^'--«Pt perhaps in tasto to be foun7fa^t° ith'n,„l"^ ■£"*'""'', "^"t *•""■ hardly boats must be somethLntt™/'*'"'^ ""i? ''""'» "^ t^esi consider expen e^evervtbrr^ i. S?"' ' ^''''y »"«"» "e^'er to ample scalef always exceS of IZ '"^^^^ on the most I must say in tliis too tl n .?- y™™ *''^"' *"'''««• Still the hotels, after Si ' **"""""■' "" ""^^ '«'"» than .te«Ss,''^!:;^rs"1tolrr; Z "" " ^^""^ "-lo-derU rous and wolKdresswl t nf' *i'« '''"p"'' servants very nume- (mulattoer) L veTvrt'em^ a„"d ^ "'''"'''•''''in, thoVaiter, out who the enpta^i, „XlL. •.". ™^ y"" ''° ""* ''"-^ on board, or mark who 7i.Z JL i'"'f "? ^'^ R''™''''" »«<'" these luUhmiaUX". n\™? ""^ *''" ''i'^''"' ™d <'f above their breati AirtT,o! .r'"' ''""'' "" <""'•''■• '"' » ^'O"! the funnels, ira emtre ewZ 1 T"? ''j'^/^nvard before upper deck where the niW. ' '^ ''^'''' ''"'''l-l'ouse, on .he captain, eonCTP™tp w ' """':,'',' ""'' occasionally the hefni^n™ S^ p';^/!^ '•» '7 »fll.Per»ist in loavinj „,u enginesf I„ the K "y aF^avsT f"", "iT "''f^ tit .1 _ -^-.^..^.w Willi U Jill lllJItl /It11 :; sirs i,J i !'"nal-b<,at.s in i'l?. having li steanera I hx fclie talk of After all k this Huu- iliion] now 1 are muai ! ij tlie noisy sits down tJP THE HtTDSOK. n t steamers the Troy instant as , deck and liese great ctravagant n F' ,e by immense ■lie Gothic feet, more irawberry 3 of state- aJis, arm- , nothing 8 in tasto t hardly of these never to the most es. Still tter than —clerks, y nuHie- ' waiters a smart not find ft swell end of ' a word I before on iho illy the iUfi ouf rail\ray a jxlass ourselves (neck anc mense mob hpR\oimr\ +h^ i«^ j- • , ^ ' ^^^ while an im- a -00% hea^d" Ja„™ ttf Ste^ X thf "''"""', ''J clamoured round This mot!!, ^- T^^ *^® ^*?^°g l^ad ladies (husbZds W W« • '' understood to allow the chance UqultaiicK^^^ H.T .^"tf'^' ^^^^^^^^ ^^ comes the^ru^ of "onfrhf?*'^ ^^^^ ^?'^ ^"d«J tlien have not by hook or crol theT^T'l'* Z ^^'^^^ovs, who among the fair '""^^'^ ''^^^^g acquaintance and jiuite in altS ;r^S2.'^ ''^''' '' '^ P-"^-'' •1.0 foi CdeompeM our s"; ZeVJtT r"""' "'*''<'!*. *" Jtcamer, the Trov « 1M» „ ' i • ^"'^ *'"'' opposition fairly alonesido ^'nlni ^ "'"'x?'' *^"''''' ^«* »'"' «•«« "oir an nil., T 7l Y"* "''^' *'*^'A '^o ^Treen Uusli. a ^i| afi ^ rposite, not much grown of lato ZZL t '' -J '•aiwav .-ation, to Troy. At Green IW.^tIT;!';!' '".i*" >W, .Inch of course hn3 spread ov»r her steer nuroni.f ^"nai-?;:t:;^^^r]o;;k:trb^ n ^^- i.undrc:d;;;f >".. l-i^ b..n^^i ;: ,^ ,:V^r or^juatsl^rt. «teuner« I have mentiouel. SeVoral hens '»'•' by th - tug- chickeit? of Sf.'j** n V ''1 1 -rf ■t ■ 'J^ .' 80 ALBANY AND TBOY. this kind, camrmg goods and emigrants, wo passed coming up. Indeed, this grand river is constantly crowded, im t high as Troy, for its whole navigable length, 160 milis, with schooners, sloops, and steamers of every possible description and loaded witli all sorts of possible notions; the streamer imihc and emigration going on from the great dv;p6t (New York) along up Lake Erie, round Michigan, to Chicago, on the further si^e, then splitting off towards the Ohio soutL *^r the other great lakes and wilds north. WJiUe I was dweUing on these stirring facts, and makiuLr my way upwards towards a church amidst some latter-day hrs two fierce dogs, not carine a pin for my cogitations, or trade either came after my leels ; two dogs are awkward but the good lady of the frame-house, their mistress, left hei^ clothes on the Ime and very kindly called them off, for urbanit ^ obhged, and acknowledged it with becomin^r I have called Albany stupid and dull : what nonsense ! it is aU life and bustle m the dry goods and emigrant line. Par as the eye can reach upwards, one sees crowds of boats steamers builders' and timber yards, manufacturing chim' neys, aU speakmg of great and increasing activity ; to say nothing of the vast numbers of large canal-boats, many fuU of emigrants, chiefly Irish and German, all bound in fjood earnest to the west, sifted from the dregs who stick in Kew 1 ork or the cities on the sea-board. Seeing the cars about to start for Troy, I ran down and got m ; only twelve mil^s-almost in sight— quite, from tlio Albany side hiHs. A" i there, we were trotted along the chu^water-side, Riv et, by horses, as usual, and depo- sited aoout the centre iie tosvu, which I was sur])rised to liud so large, and with as much stir and trade goiu J on an at Albany— at least m the streets, if not on the river, whore however a good snriukling of steamers and small craft stay at Uie wharves below th(^ bridge and viaduct (of the rail to Ugdcnsburg, by Lake Champlain), which crosses the stream above the town. 'Ihe Cohoe's FaUs is just above, where tlic JVlohawK joms the Hiulsou. No^^hiug is so dreary as walking about a strange town alone. Ihe day was very line, one of the balmy Indian summer ones. I bke hills, and made mv way up one of the steep streets to the range immediately ovjr the place, Irom wheuee the view up and down the river is yery Ihic the mauy-coloured shades of tlio woods and foliage in aU rtirec tions, brnrht searh't Htwl vpllow timb;.,., ;f .„.~.X -.:..i. nM _ I tions, bri^rht scarlet and yellow, making it very rich. ' Virgin torests, which moots the eyo iu most American sceueflT Hurrying tc V wfis vexed tc ThlTPj izoa ufi Here it si westward. Having citizens' vi under the i along, "w plenfcjr of b fore, in a Pat sat do' was quite f] just behind lalf sub-let; p to seho< marbles," with two ce be one of t bid the litt work-a-day not to speak pilgrimage, way of varyi clever horse- on the disc horizontally anee is admi] in the stage down by th^ fare — twelve cents)— and i certain taveri there, they i yards further exceedingly t tnrnpike-road Albany has ex(;ept the " ( basins to tho ^ or 360 miles, wild and romi ^' J^Tahawk, odnri. of whi( Clinton's hear of the New '. proverbial; bi ed coming led, up «a miles, M'iti ^escriptiai. > stream of -|)6t (New liicago, on liio south, PAT O'GOBMAir. 81 Mohawk, to the d making latter-day Nations, or awkward, IS, left her m off, for becoming' mse! it is iine. Far of boats, injGf ehim= Y ; to sav many fuij i in good : in New own and from tlio along the md depo. prised to : on ad at r, whore, raft stay e rail to ic stream 'here the ge townl r Indian ) one of ic place,! line, tiie| ill clirec- , There! niAon of I suenef.i i: ' Here it stretches' j westward. Having pined the fields clear of lota an^ cifn= ^ • t citizens YdFas (some charmingly inWtin^s3l T ?^/''^ under the shade of a friendll trerS a^^^^^^^^ ^^"^^ along, " whistling for want nf fL„ i ?.^ little feUow came fJy_ol brogue.^ ^^Itttitil-n.^'^^^^'^^lf^ ™ quite fSdl^ L an klnt '=7 ^\ ""^ }'!'''^'' "«• ""^ ™t behind ua? oveX Zt fie^^^r''*^r H'''"^'' •"»"«« ialf sub-let, weU to do P^f- w,f. ii" ^°°^ '""Se frame-house, SO to school siJice tt ^nteTdSwJnfM "''''," ''^f"''' marbes." ms eMhequTbeinfw f ifd'oXm ^''"'''^ With two cents • but Pnf- wna •»„! f . ^^ ^™ ^appy P4'nmage. But it was now time to eelbffto A m ° ''^ ' w of trying my route, I croZd fhe Sr in ono^-oV «^ horizontally under th'e d^U tuSsKdrtu el?'"^ do«-n by the railrold Fo^^^l^'p* T W ^rZ'f ""TT* ,f.rc-tvvelve eents and a-haJf Tthe r^^ 1X1^ ^'^^'i h '!t?rs-&r!trhLte^'3iea£^^ mcodmgly nleasant drive of Zlvo mUes 1^1^''°"^, "? turnpike-road- the nnln n.,i„,i „ t """-'• ?" an excellent AlLny has^eerotefttZalT TW ''"'' ''t'- «.cpt the "Great Canal.^1 Lh Z;, l^th\Tul^"""i basins to the whan-es. I once wcn?Z i.Ti r ^ 'S-""?' ""* rojii* I Hii] A^ Tymg to the dcpAt, or railwa sturtc ''^ vexed to Ijnd we tv-station, in Maiden-Ian lute; jusfc sunset. While iiM» 82 EAILWAT CABS AND CUSTOMS. seated m the cars, waiting to be off. we all poked our heads out to witness a row, the lirst I have seen .ny approach to but the beUigorents only struck each other withl^d words after all, to our great disappointment. ' lUymg along in the dark all night, we arrive at Buffalo next day by eleven o'clock, passing tlrough. on the waj,^^ of those enormous villages so much talked k as sprinjingu, by magic-Schenectady, Utica, Eome, Syracuse, UiST-^C particularly Kochester, on the Genessee Eiver, now a iar,'e city where we crossed it, close to the Eomantic Falls. ^ Un this route three or four beautiful small lakes are passed; at Geneva, SkeniatUes. Canandaigua, all surrounded by their primitive woods or fields, still fiUed with stumpVof reos, as yet uirrotted, all wild, but all beautiful in theS^ver wi dness; nor do I hear that the country on this tracks unhealthy. Hereabouts is Cooperstown, where Jooper th iXfnirr'^rf' t^ ^" ^H ^^^ ^'^^'Se; after abu^sing i^iiglish all his life, living with us and abroad, he returned or^tu^M V^'- *^ -^^^ ^H r^^ ^^ nuisan'ces and vm. tions, at which he m vain growled, and so he died. At tJie iiuKalo station there was quite an army of omni. buses, carriages, and cabs. This "6ep6t" very We Td handsome, with the air of an immense traffic. A word of American railway hmeUing : I begin to change my mind a to Its excellence Their cars may be more safe in a regl sinash but all else IS decidedly1,ad and uncomfortab e. ^Mli say nothing of the centre-alley abominations, where f^rt^t^^ squirts his tobacco-juice; Ltthe seats are'urom! fortable, Mid hardly have room for two, in such close pro- r'^nf -""''f ? ?^*^^ stranger; the hard wooden bact of the scat m front of you is close against your knees (dauL^e- rous m a shock). ancJ those in then? throw their arms Kr of f h Whi ''" ^""T ¥^^^^'>^^\PS^t on you, so depriving iou of the little room left. Your feet have no resting-places not oven a bar. as in some, to keep them out of the filth, ill thi^ IS v(n-y annoymg m a journey of seventeen hours. The con- ducLor never condescends to explain anytliing or say a word, except to see or change your ticket ■ anri often one is afraid to stir, lis nol)ody knows whether any stop wiU be long or short. If you nre forced to risk it, when you return you find your .eat iak«u ; you walk on the Avhole length of the car perhaps m vauj, and must try the next one before or behind If vou r:^ZJ'^ ^f'^?!;}'''^ J'^'^\ yr C^^' very small), jjcvu nLi , " „ .. ;,* " '"wt jwix ^li very wmaili, [vi h'vnn * v^ """^ """-^ peg Avhere you were), and lug it outi M itii you. You may. indeed, see a fteat or two with onlv ««« I sin j; ie ia,ly occupant. In this predicament a Quakeres/oru;^ I ZilT:) "/^\Vl^^y «;.Si«r '" ^'''^ ^'"i%' delicacy and' custom lorbids. It is a tickhdi point to put yourself beside i on seconc indeed, tl about con through a papers an wonderfiL The far cents, ab( take a les is hardly i fare make admitted ; kind of n infringed steamers, people. Putting the statioi then ramb of twenty ^ pavementsi What ca It lies near nliere it n plunging o yer3r new la in right an/, ties in boa changes, ho aud there si cutting dowi towns bare. poor slendei alih^^ walk but tl passing emi^ eager ontori :H'n.: i our heads jproach to ; hard words at Buffalo way, most 'ringing up laJina; but »w a large ills. lakes are urrounded stumps of their very is track is 'ooper, ihe xbusing us s returned and vexa. f of omni. large and L. word of y mind as a regular rtable. I IS, where re uncom- 3lose pro- I back of ?s (dauge- s over, or iving you )lace, not All this The con- y a word, afraid to or short, find your • perhaps . If you (vu musi ig 11 out Oulv oUfl pess once caoy and if boBide I BUFPAM, ON LAKE BBIE. go the fair; it is considered, I believe a lihnrf,- «i assent to a distressed wanderei a,f T i,^' ^'"' ""*? "°' ludicrous awkwardness in » V>;f!L- ■ , '<"* » "ost myself, afraid to SvTt on aK /" T/"'' °^ » ""«*• I'^e himself in " slanti^JieuL " JI "r** *" = and so edging rattlesnake had the fther half N^ '^"''""^ """*'""• "" i*" » iVo Tight, of course but aL .^<'«'> ''"^'•« '^ i" doubt about lone lidy ! wTeX'r the tZl™? ''^''!, * S""^"' ^"'^ "^ » mestinJon.enie„TprivtgriroJ?'nr ^'^""'^"^ »" ^'^^ bum Lr itZd^tTelziVvtdt^? '" "^-^ '^^''*'«"-' 7"" on second thought^ I prefer ou^otn'e^riafi ''%:"nh' indeed, there is no comnnrlo^r! i; I?i * ^^^ -*-^ comfort, about comfort At S of th^ «Hr^ ^^f ^^^ ^^^«r care through all the ctL ofT.^ *, /'^"'' ?'''^ ^^^ ^«y» come i» hardly anywhereTs^co^d .1?! ' ^' ^1^''*''^ ' ■""<' th«re fare males It unntLrv T W. "• ^'^'^ ^"""y """'^^^t*' admitted; they eeSiyji, L„ T? '^'? "''g™''^ frequently iiud of iodeTt*V?se-ve »4uld'h„ T 3* ""^ '^'"*' ""^ tl"' infringed on. Thev are .tI '} J^"'" ^y- ""^"''''ed if .leamfrs, though 2st of fe'r"'* passengers in the people. ^ °* '""^ """^"i servants are coloured t JSnXlrrthf te'rr S"^^^ ^^ "P «* then rambled about the to™ Th» w t ' "' ^o'l-street, of twenty years ago in tl^ ,t„„t • "^* "'"<'■ knee-deep, pav™en[s,\rielcTii;e^ts r'^d^^s^eyf^fet'L^""' «;i>ore it naC;K: t/and mnWH™? °«^ *'''"''''«• plunging over Niagara, on to the On^rril "'t^''^'''',,™"^')' very new largo American tnJ,l ■» "'"''™- I"ke all these in 4ht angles. trrgooTtok 'hou^s '^h". ^ 'T^'' ties m board or fram? r^„;„V„ i ,™^«> ™ the extremi- cl.aages,hotcIs!nrivZLu'^>rt™tlt^ff'r^^^^^ ^'f>«' aud there shaded by the «Ss ,!n rTV 5 onep an, here cutting down the ofd L 'toeV as** ife .f'- "'""«<' <•<"• towns bare, and those planted nr'.lntj.f *'"'"■,''■"■''» and po,,r slender things. InttL^^at^efir.Ti?;!'.*?^- «'iirb''utThr'sCts "no'vr ^r**^""-, i^^'^'iy "waZ'n pa».ing en!i::;antlnd :UingTrt'"goo'dr''B,r'"'L ^f eager cnterprbo doe,; it. i^pt?, Ta^^ tw nt^^Tu' u EETB0SPECT8 AND PEOSPECTS. exports twenty-eight millions of dollars per annum. This mses from its situation as a central point and dep6t from New York by the canal, which, striking the river three or four miles. below the town, at tlie Tonawonda creek, near ^la^k Eock, continues along tlie river shore to the foot of High (Mam) street, where it ends in vast basins, and the f^rtf T.""^ '^""TTf ^^^ ^^^f «^^PPi^^ *« a^d from the far west. Thus, aided by the railway for passengers and the finer goods, though already herculean, it may be said-and who can doubt It P-to be only in its infancyf The placets at least three times the size it was twenty years a^o, and wilds '^''' ^ '''''' ""^ *^'^ '^'''^^^^^ ""^^^^^^ ^^^ a^d Buffalo is full of churches, chapels, halls, assembly-rooms societies, a theatre; in short, all things common to W cities ; but there is a lake and far west coarseness, a certain careless rawness in everything. New York is refined com- pared \Mth this, not because it is so much larger, but modes of thought vary at this distance, and we approach the Indian wdds-once Indian! Poor things, they are nowhere now! ilow much of *he early contact may be now traced in the race of our cousins F A good deal; formal, taciturn, sudden- humour and joviality seldom lights up the face in smiles, all IS practical utility, the one great aim and end; and were we all poor felling trees, building houses, and hoeing corn a good end and aim; but already it sits behind barrels, cas^s, cotton, and iron affects finery, has left the fields, and the woods and fields simphcity and truth; the wits are sharpened not a -ot reL'^eT ^^'""^''^^ struggle in sharpness, the featim38 . Were I young and had my fortune to seek, with myriflo and axe, this is the country. But here there is no luxury in reciprocity of thought or feeling ; few of the amenities of life no matter wliat the riches or creature comforts. So, Buffalo v! If w" 1 ""^^^^r ^^.^ ^^ ^^y ^^^^^ FC«^ Scotch or Irish village, or Welsh, or Italian, in the che- ^ut Apennines I mZu? S f ^^^^f«,^f, ffy tlii«' for what do I know of Buffalo P Perhaps, that aU the lower part of the town near the wharves has just been burned down, the bridge over the canal, and a chapel near it, said to be not at all accident; and here I saw a savage fight among some navvies clearing away the rubbish and rums, one fellow struck another with I spade when doT^n (always rough and tumble), like a true, good-tor-nothing ruffian. ^^ I passed on to the basin of the steamers about to start i,n tne irtKe ; one iiacl a band hard at work to entice emigrants to n„T« i ''^\ ^«/^,^"^/»^^ booths, while flaming placards held out all sorts of atlvantagee m opposition. It is not uncommon, even no) tries, G boxes, tl this two the Hur( Chicajy tliriving western getting 8 whole cL seugers— England for the fa destroy i porting. We ar( licre no i stone to e but they i The we; the main 1 mish with rally very feather he> A new : Dunkirk, ] son lower c ' the state d south, thr( Cincinnati, sippi, and It has a br four rival Missouri. traffic whic! Ohio or C across the cutting shoi much more poor emigra moment. Two sma^ tlie Rapids. ]'l\M'l\. A g( ..i' ^ ■^■1 wurown I manner of a aud-ready, t] sliips, and c im.^ This iepot from p three or •eek, near Jie foot of 3, and the i from the rs and the said—and le place is I ago, and voods and dy-rooms, I to large a certain ned com- ut modes lie Indian ere now! I the race sudden ; miles, all were we £? corn, a ds, cases, and the arpened, '■ features start UP rants to da held )mmoo, EMIGBANT8 IN TBANSITF. §5 tries "S'rman? t'^^T,^'"'^ ^-^^^^ ^"^i^'^*^*^ ^'^^ ^ eoun- ttf o^n^^^^^^^ ^l Cl.?;anS Sern Bide «« ?^ .''''i '^^^^'^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^J' «^ tl^^t S nJ^settle'd 1^ '"''''^ oharmmg spot yet explored, and ST.^ 1 • 1^'?^^ ^^^^^^ steamers run up and down the S!,m] ^?l .T Yankees, restless spirits from the New MgUnd States ; they quit their stores and scanty nastureT Wt they >nean to^^teXof thett l^i^fwU^'''-^- tlie ™a ntodv of't^ " '^'■'"?''*^"1- ^^'^ f™«"« >^a « killed riilv ,r»Jt Z: 7 f' "^'""o- the beds iimte, being sene- SerSdfanJT- ™»tf«'«««. "cotter at aU timlTaa reamer Deds, at least m warm weatlier. nt^T '■'"'™2? has just been finished from New York to Dunkirk, near Cleveland, on Lake Erie ; it erosses the Hud on lower down, at Catskill.or Hudson-twn, cSe throu»h ItrarouTo for " "\™-» withoIiSrS lamo ^^ hich w as before forced through Euflalo It ^aius th a cutting short the bug r^^lTke^^^^^^^^^ mch more expensive than the steamers and canal so thi? ':Z:S:'''''''' never take it, time with th^n bTg'oTlitUo Two small steamers ply down the Niagara Biver as far as ' M'ood t:^ *^ ^Hflj^h one (thf Emerdd^ To Chi?! '.;• .^•.. /^ ^^?'*' "^l"'^' '/oI"i ii^ll of a captain nut inn in ,»;.!,! inaimei^II^nlf If ^'T ' ^^<^' ^"^^'^d' there is a closolikimess in r rpn^/ ?1 "f f .f ^^V^^-'^P^^'"'^- ^^' ^oJ^^s of the rourh. iiui-ready, the habit of command, the constant risks Wr] «liips, and essential activity. The' foi-e to Chip^^^^^^^ I It- . I. 86 CHIPPAWA VILLAGB. K ' ■ Ri!M-' thmk, a dollar, the short three horae rail of nine or ten miles ifn^ ^^1." ?S' ^ Queenstown included. Passing Gmm Island, which the Americans take by hocus-pocus, as if more on their side of the river, and the famous Navy Island lower 1 lir t^^^^lf «^t^' o^e would tliink it a favourable spot to settle on; but I observed only a lofr-house, or shanty or ll\no^f^ f ''■'?'^' " '^"^ *^^ ^'^^^^' ^^^ the woodcutters. «tfflL a cleared pa;, i or two, farmin-, or anything like a settlement, does not seem attempted. Indeed, our o;.^i Cana Nn^•!1^^^"^ this track looks equally wild and neglected. W 11 1 ^- '^""^^f ^''"'^^t ^^^^^^y "i^ch altered even to the Welland River, where we landed, at a kind of tumble-down wooden wharf, where a large party of what I at first tor-k to be Indians were huddled together amidst their goods and chattels ; but they turned out Norwegian emigrants ! The women extremely resembled Indian squaws, at a little distance liiese good people were waitii.g for a passage further on. I s^iould remark that from this point the river rushes on to the Rapids with accelerated force. Indeed, it gradually increases even from Buffalo ; but not so much, I think, as the captain said— seven miles an hour-more like three or four LJiippawa 18 a wretched village, with all the marks of idle in- nffnTf ^ l''^ -}'^ ^''?, ^^^ log-houses, the fences, and the attempts at bits of cabbage and potatoe gardens. One is, mdeed, disngTeeably struck by the groat difference between the two sides of the river and lakes, very sadly to our disad- vantage, and so it continued all the way down the St Law- f ?ff i """"i '^ ^''?^ I"" *^^ t^^'^^' ^^^ ours are the oldest settled and much the largest, but in the industry and activity ot the people in them. Here we at once had a pretty specimen imder a shed, the station, where, after a long delay, a slouch- ing. Ill-dressed clodhopper brought out and put to his three lean horses, with such wretched harness that, on the cars starting one of his make-shift traces broke before we had got clear of the town, and we were fain to wait for sundry patch- ings and knottings. When at last we did proceed, it was at the most sleepy of trots ; all this spoke at once for the fashion ot things at Chippawa, and yet our people affect very much the American independent manner, even the same twang and emphasis the same quiet indifference, which, too, they carrv beyond their wiser neighbours in things essential ; all is sluggish and slovenly. Nothing on one's path seems at all getting on ; nothing but what our government does ; always at a very dispoportioned outlay for any good afterwards derivod frcmi it. The Welland Canal to vvit All down tl.n ^lagara iiiver it is particularly obtruded on the traveller. Jlaiidsome lar^ro villages kee^ fast increasing ; Manchester, at the ± alls, Lewistown, Fort Niagara, &c., on the opposite side j BAPIDS AND FALLS OP THE NIAGAEA. 87 \rLJe, on ours, there is little or no otir or increase of popula- tion in the towns or of farms, corresponding to those so near them. Thus our side of the great EaUs, though they have built a great hotel just below them (the Chiton), is stiiramere scattered hamlet ; while the Falls vilWe, on the American side, has grown quite a large town. They have aiFectedly changed its name from Manchester, and old Goat Island is now hner Ins Island. What's in a name ! but no doubt it is to suit the excessive raptures of our English tourists, who flock here every summer to torture themselves (and readers) to hnd expressions intense enough for their bewildered sensa- tions, aU about the plunge of this great river ! To be sure, it is very hne, but so is the Eapids, before it leaps over. Nobody ever says a word of them, or < .'the whole scene, which, after a 1, IS the reaUy sublime. I strained my eyes as we trotted along to catch the whole expanse ; the sun and clouds threw flitting shadows at ^hat moment, the rushing river, on our side a dark blue, wuere the whole line marks its plungiiijr de -ent. The island in its rich autumnal colours, and the Anierican half bright in the sun; the fragrant aroma of the pines in the balmy air; the rushing rapids from far above; dancing, sparkling, bounding, as if eager to get over; beyond, along the whole horizon, one interminable forest, shaded in various hues, till lost in deepening blue tints dong the edges ot Ontario, or the Genessee, about Eochester. This rocky ridge ot the Falls extending in that direction, giving a slight elevation, through which the Great Canal is cut at Lockport; uhere, by theway, a succession of stupendous locks marks the magnihcence of the enterprise. Kear the Falls we came to the Ferry-house Hotel (eclipsed by the new grand one below), now empty and going to ruin. Its windows broken, its small garden aU weeds. It stands in a commanding situation above, from whence the view must be superb. I observed an artist on the green bank below us had set up his easel in form, and was paintincr ,ill .;j„ 4 J^ mougnt, aj too soon to the tor- I »hL*S,^^Xn'„r/rad'no*^'^W -tHe -"d, I fcep -rd^dortUi^ -"-^ I while th„l,,u.k ...?«!...?'.- -^r-. Jt.!'<«' comparatively low, ■ iug awy Wr.- to £' ri;;r' froS'^r„birthf ^ll pcrhap jBotli t< but arc dowu I I do nc land, ai equal t( a great clever ; ^ore imn Ho were t ^ fog at n and river. I'are six sli TOiifusion Olio wo load yours of Congro conts, or 'or the (l(»l pen CO : bu and besidt parcel of d lOBD AND lADT ELGIN. 89 they »a;ffid f^pUrwriir "'^""" ^^'^' •'--» AS 1 could see the steamer over tlie wav had finf «<«rfn^ t me Sh il^^^T^P'.*".?'"' "■"Jo^ «>« «hLe, noffar from Stio L^dv '^'b' •^"■'^ ^r ^«"' ''■^ aide-de-camp, and moU.JZL^ ^™??' "" ■^o-'^el.aek (his daughter ^ile a Ck\'^^ri^^V^r' "t"""^ P""^"' ^ "^ th« States one would ran'.?."/' 'tH 4 ™S."3is;;s fortaH.^i ' ■: "'•"atnentcd, less eommodioa. IcsTeom-' iaro 8 X HlnllinL "^ '' / •, v^ ™'^^^« ^^''^^^ ^^ Toronto. I'ho iinrl K«a;j " " " '"''' '*"*'^ '" »"*> ciiuk'H, never nnvchano-fl. parcel of dirt^. bank-noteg, from one dollar upwards, and from I! i»::M'. 90 CLEVEE CrEEENCIES. [^. ■!>'; t J > I Lilt" *"^' ' "?'"''' ^'*'' «^' "^«y be already broke ; some breaking, some, ac a heavy discount ; indeed, tlfe whole of the best notes are at a discount out of their own State-often if dh^^ri^ *r?-^' r^^^'^ • ^^' consequence is, that these dirty notes (" shm plaisters" are constantly refused, often in ticklish moments Aen you are in a great Lrry; oi you aJe told (havmg had it in your pocket a day or two) that it ain't worthaeenl^bank smashecf! This thimble^ ts created In, Kff '* **'** ''' *^^y *?^® y«"^ ^^^^8 at a discount, giving you better ones ; ergo, of the place : or gold, which yoi must pay extra for ; or siryer, which you must^)ay still more f^ h^^tZ ^"T-i?^""*'^''^ '"^.'^ California has opened its shop ; .rpf n't '' '*', T"*^ P^*'"'^"' ' P^«P^« cannot by any means Irv 1?P '!?f '^^"^f ' ^^? '^'^ *^^ "^°«^ ludicrous distrob 7« L^ir r'^'^^T' ^'^^>^«tting8 in search of a quarter-dollar (a shi llmg)-.while gold eagles, half-eagles, and quarters abound, at a premium ! In tkis the Ame"ricans are sadly too cute ; why is there not a United States' Bank, guaranteed by wlZ I'J^Tf^' r^' "' ""^ ^^"^ ^^ E"«^^^^ ! Perhaps the thrivL ^ ^ '* ^''^''''''^ '^' '''''' ^^^^'"^ trade is so n J?!]"* Pf^'^yis ragged notes and the confusion of their value j cross the frontier, and help the needless confusion of our Tn Canada currency; so that what ;^'ith dollars, pounds atcrliiiff. and pounds and shillings currency, one is never sure of wha IS to pay. or how to pay it ; it is always " about so and so." I always msisted on gold or silver for gold when it was possible. and never took a shin plaister or applied it without trSmblmg Ihe sovereign m Canada is twenty-five shillings (with abso- lutely the same coin as at home !) « v i auso i l,„n^^'^^ "i ^^^ ^'"""^'^ ""^ ^^^^ b«"* ^00^^^"^^ at Lord Elgin's handsome horses among the crowd of deck passengers i^ ho I genera ly collect beneath the wheel-house, a qiiarrel arose be' t ween tv^o gamble ; one, an Irishman, threatened the other, I an American, with his knife-on which the American, who I had been much the inost silent and cool, suddenly drew out a I knife too, and rushed at his antagonist ; for an instant they I iw fl '?'^^^''^^' I thought bloodshed inevitable; but the I lirst findmg how resolute a fellow he had lu deal with, lowered I his tone, and so it ended. I 1 ^l Y P^^^^eded we had a good deal of fog. but luckily it I cleared away, and we ran into the wliarf, where we fo4id I other steamers and lake co,i^ters ; about four hours cro38in<-. I loronto IS a larger town than 1 (^xpeeted to find it; somo " goodstreetslonge, York, and Xing streets the best), with *u "' \""\^ ^^^-^^ix^ss. iiuusus. 1 ne Bnopg are but 80-80, and the Buburbs m frame, the footpaths everywhere of planks- 8LEEPT CANADIANS. «1 k?t"u&t^^^^^^ ^ery plea^ant^the streets better macadam- ma taaa m the smaller Amencan towns. and Le^^^^^^ the United States' plan ; verandahs aim Lrccn open bunds to the windows. I wont to h nniM jmall hotel on the English plan (a treat) at El"ah« where I found everything comfortable. I think it is the SV House- at any rate, Lord Mare Kerr breakfasted there ^tmorS' I found him verv pleasant and soeiable. This was mvfirfi 'TS 'r''b '"'"'%'$ ''""^ I '«ft Southampton. I had L J?e MOt to ehoke myself, look at the paper, ani lounge Xasantiv ^h "„ "aTa't hi?'''" ,-K«°»» «». abonf tfel'^d ouis nero as at home ; only here we are in small AtiH ihn honourable Mr This a has had his day ; and now shuffle the cards. But, mv dear fellow-countrymen in ?he wc^s suppose you were alfto get up a little eaSer! V^ hat a mornmg sloth I find here, compared with the Amencan wide-awake stir! There is nobo^djawake here till eight or nine o'clock. In short, they ignore old Franklin and poor Kichard ; thence the out of tid/repair th n/s annear m; and ye the thrifty Scotch are the Lt^pTopleTere^^^^^^ ue fail to lure our surplus population this way for want of I7an ran'v" ^'''^' i^' ^ow^ii^street, or indTed anrheadB at all, or any common-sense direction. ^ 'What 18 it to mer as the breaksman said ; - let it co on J^l T 'I'T^^' ?^.^ ^.r ^ ^^^^^^d y««rs hence.'' ^ i just looked in, kindly permitted, at the Officers' Club where all was quiet and genflemanly ; but your gentTeman^^^^^ wools! ' "" '^''' ^''''^^"^'^' ''^' that\illsiere t t7e I set off by the Highlander (she starts from Hamilton and 2s^t"rlfnr ^^u'^n '' 'T/.^ ''}' ^^ "-*^«" -act sums) ^-s. steriing. I ho fellow diddled me at the office on the V. larf I am sure ; for out of two sovereigns I only got 78 Id Ihe cerk muttered something about 7s 9d but ifVwn -U^' v"^ *.'"' ^Z"'^'''' ^'""■''' "«"'"« at ""any towns— Port vo got to Kingston, the largest town after Toronto Tim wn, our great naval place ; still there is a dockyard and for aud many steamers are seen in the harbour, Si tokesa Io7e "irL'iro.r "'^-""'7 a' *!»« >"o»tli of tlie canal leI.Z^l,^Tf "T Canal begins, and the St. Lawrence, S"^„,tJe"i.Zr?i^<'?;..,^y -F)- -« -9- threading Hlncidwater; like'-g^m"; ;':^o:mI:'^Z l^JjJTf these sweet miniature islands and their rocks at homo I How ." *. f? f, iiJ.1 93 DOWN THE ST. lAWEBWCE. the crystal stream reflects them as vividly as the verv u™.,. paddler','nH" ™T"' ^ »,"--i"or,the wives followf„r^S l^^dTfe^^^^^^^ qftStt2^^;iS^^^^^^^^^ if thpr« ^. «^f counted these countless islands ? no raatier It there are not fire hundred, or not a dozen— it is still f 1.1 same thing to our very finite purposes or feehngs Ito h L ' m all the way down at all equals this nart of tL SI j^ ren^e^fbr its sta..hng novelty, Lugh its Kes t infi^t^; hundred! of "S f f ^' ""^'^^ ?."°*^ liereabouts, and for flT wtif ^1 ?^f ^^^''''® ^"^ ^^l^i^d, it is one great forc«fc tanrf ^ri^ u^'J" ^' ^^ approach Montreal, in the dis- tance, and svvell to mountains as we approach OupW growing more lofty beyond it-more grand Td j'L^es^^^^^^ vaitusrapKfr'''-'^'¥^f^"^^^^^"^«' ^°^ along^'o vaiious rapido pt this river, I thought of Moore's CaTinrli'^n boat song, and fain would hide the sId reality of the man who charmed so many sunk in the decrc..itude of age-dZJ o? aead, m his little cottage at Devizes. And so ends^'thl thYse^verv wnllrT n"" ^'^'' ^?^"^ ^"^""^'" ^^^^^^^ down side we 7aUed at'T^.^rr ''^' ^'''''''^: ^^ *^^ ^^^^^^^^ ZidiW Hne onn 5i^,t ^^«^^^-^' .f gro^^ «ff town, near the uiyiamg ime ; one of the new rail entrcpdts. anfede'din?r.r^'"T}^^"'^'^S^' ^^^^ ''''^^' tolerable, ana included m the faro. The next feature which roused us after a day and night's monotonous steaming was Zw 3Ve^ru^uo";::'' "^'^^^^^^^ ^-^^/' TtZsfdot boatmen oHh^ Tt'"'''^'' ^^7 .^' ^*'^«*^ ^^ ^'^^^ ^^^^ ^arl^ Doaimen on the bt. Lawrence had to dread. voi J' steering in these reaches was ticklish: our boat iTofdoTonlvS T ''' "'"-^'^^ ^'^'^ '^^ «« 'o -' Jieraown, oulyjust keeping way enough to steer bv 0,.r boat drew Peven and a half feet,\ut wt had only on^e* sh^cl of grounding on the fiercest of these rapids TtLTn^.?^ Nobody cared about it except the captain, who iSarsav was anxious ; for even a detection is to Wm Tserious matter' At this spot are several islands. matter. On our aide opposite the rapids, canals (the Ottawa Ht paTS ?o?ttr"'^^ r^ ^"^' « ^^'^^ been^tn^ru" ^d'^^^t pass riiem, lor the upward voyage. ^t ci^;pnars we were afraid of the last great ranid of Zac/nner withm nine miles of Montreal. iWater^^^^^^ encourag Like a^ for spreai have bcei much iiK and I mi then. Withoi to judge ( its presen the street ments, sti lectures, , tliis here, very little States. The Mi ike smaU I MONTEEAI,— ippEABABCBS. gg I too low—and besides it was night— so we were landed «f ti,» I raUway station at Lachine, and\ot into thrd^^e' bnJ it I tJiis mount the view over tlio town, across the river f o +h« too very inferior to wktLrm^^^^ ^^^'' Neither the French brilliance, thrift, and industrv l^nv fh. American go-ahead breadth and bustle but^anit7U,^.^ careless slovenliness- pvppnf „f fi,^ ', T^^ ,^^ ^^ch »leepy indolencrwant of^f^it^^rl »d ?*''""' S Anf "''''='' T'"^ *« ?' Shotl how^vera:^ I S o^XXetf l^ttM-^S a^%M encourage walking about. ^^o^ros are ot plank, and Like all Canadian cities, Montreal has immense canabilifipa ■n^T ""P™'^^''' Cut all this 18 a matter of coniBariaon then ""'* '""P™" '^"SS very poor and veryTES toS^!lf !""I'"°*^ """> ''<""* "I'o^t statistics or reports ISJIl 94 HUBEY ON TO QUEBEC. If: scrape a scanty return. The shops are verv infpWnr o«^ » evidently doing very little business. ThIr7is^^fcWe L^^^^^^ Z' some trade at the river-aidp if nni,r ;^ j • ^ "^* :> and stores for the rSt/.^^S^ag^cS"^' rs^ neither the steamers nor the river craft »l,nrtLT, ij I, size, nor the activity o„« could wS.tL wharves a^toS" Lr?'','"'1 *^" 1^ * ^"^ '^"^ along^he river fac^of Ssorandt*'rn A '"^''^11' *"°es are matter ofTomf parison, and in all Avnenca they are ever ao-nin«f no " vigour, activity, and that broad caLess pTenty^S covU^ .i I a the mouth of the Eichelieu, St. Anne's St Cri/Ldihe Three R.vers, where we meet the flood tide ; bulhe stream Tr: Sir° ^"•'^ '^'^^ '""^'"S Montreal, 'and of coi^s?^ and"l,!.'inr^W7 T"'"'^*'"^ of the increasing boldness I i St. Charles Riv«r ?' l^nT? ^'''^>;^*'«':^nd to the mouth of the I oc. i^iiaries Kiver ; but I must not, cannot describe, it ha« Wolfe's monument. aie been done too often, and conveys nothing. I racked mvaplf m one of those truly French cakhes. a e^ort o/^cab K ovvn original ones), and we scrambled up the steep streets to the bwords Hotel, on the American plan ^ ' ^ liioy were excavating the rock besidp fli^m ««;! u -u- wing which is to swalloi up thfoS fc™' '"'''^« " At yuebcc one thmke of nothine- but Wnlfi, iw™* i and the plains of Abraham ; heroS^nd eTcnt o„f °?^*V^ and aJmost out of mind no^-a-days I Jaw nothing but a wfw^^^^'""''/ .^^y- ''«">'«"^' ^P-and.dowa"hm muddv half-wood paved town. I heard French spokeiTinde^d but "t Zri,*^ ^'f?^''' «»«Pt. methinks, the cabs and .S;-,™ .ue weather, which helps or spoils all, had erowu terrifi^' no;v and then an hour's sunshine, and then I rKwn t!^^^ platform, a boarded space on the site of the old "hSeat S tofn! ^"'"'' "' *" f-'?"'^' --l"olcing''the'lo;ei';L"t ht^^nV^^^A .^T" ^^^^ I 'a^' Colonel Bruce and his lady Ihev had just come and awaited the arrival of hX K™ • fjuv •""'"J ^ t""* S'^O'ds. SusseU's! wi ensft^d do now ' ^ '"^'"" "'"'^ •' "O government-hous^thra ai^2sK ^:^^ ti^zi-'^^^i^ lrbtu=t*^1f; V.&t^'^^ ''^^ tooa^K^Sf ditto even thTlw^^Tn?^ T ^^^^^o-so; the streets } aids, but It is of the salt cod and bacon sort • and inrX »e a >"ut a „„ « beyond the citadel, on the blSks of the'riv7 all .ts whereabout made vulgar by the wayside tavern and i • ■ I !<"1 il ■ /■ '. . .. 96 QUEBEC, AND ITS BNYIBONS. ■I' I '> ! •1 t yW p: slovenly board-houses and fences. The romance and dorv of the spot effectually spoiled. A little beyond it, in the onlv open space, is the raoe-course. ^ Walking about the town I find the streets fall of holes the wharves out of repair in the same way, all dirt and neg! h>ct ; some coal unloading, some timber loading, a sprinklinff ot ships at anchor, or at the timber-yards; but the general impression given is far from activity or enterprise, caro or economy of any sort. The very shops are rough, mean, and slovenly, and yet here the leading people are Scotch— but giumbling at free-trade. A few starved triumphal green arches were put up to honour the entry of the Governor. Creneral. The streete are fuU of these one-horse cali^ches driving about empty, as if for amusement. I got into one to snatch a look at the falls of Montmorency; for nothine save the mountains, the water, and the woods is worth looking at. We drove through the mud of St. Eoche over a ricket? wooden bridge across the St. Charles, where we paid 6d. to cross ; then lor eight miles along a kind of continued rows of small houses, by the banks of the St. Lawrence to where the Orleans Island divides the river. Here the Montmo- rency joins It, rushing over its rocky, romantic bed, falling nearly .300 feet. Leaving the cab, I got down the bank among the hrs, and down a ladder to where the timbers of a mill-race help one to ^et fairly down to this grand rushincr of the waters. The basin and glen below is, indeed, subluno. Heavy rams had made the river yeUowish, but it added force to the fall. I next day crossed the river in one of the steam-ferrv boats to Point Levde, a straggling sort of village, with some tew wharves, where ships ai-e loaded occasionally. But here too, all was idle neglect, few or no signs of anything doinff! the road in mud-holes, and not even a foot pavement attempted • but I turned my eyes to the city, the citadel, the river, and the distant mountains, the picture thus is superb ; indeed, tins IS, ot the St. Lawrence, altogether the most beautiful spot ; the great tameness of the country upwards is here amply made up for. Time presses, and if not, space does. 1 must cut aU this short, and retrace my steps in one of the passage steamers, the Jenny Lind, a compact, neat boat. Ihey all carry deck loads. Coming down we had cattle, tobacco, and other bales and barrels ; but I cannot reconcile myselt to this constant steaming at nieht. We started at simset, and with the rival mail boat, the (Quebec, which headed us very little before it grew dark wo went to tea,^ and all interest in the river and country 'was siiiic ouc. ine iare up and down from Montreal is from two to tliree doUars, including tea, distanco 170 miles. Arrived to rais( At I to tjio plain, oiliciaig liall, w A\liere tlie Ilea ttiias ai in the ( we had too, I h on boai of man; the rail: where t the Wl Lake ic( What about tl ■—its cui milkmei bells an city bef t'liosen. to Whit and IN'eT to all th( We 81 country. but the pleasing Oxen, 1 1 thrift an( ^'. vllQ U] At CY9] got into benefit, ( One bev jumped i] tations at ioye and ] tliis pleai in tl lory of only le LiU of holes, rt and neg. 1 sprinkling tho general •ise, caro or , mean, and 5cotcii — but iphal green Governor' se caliches ot into one for nothing rth looking ir a rickety paid 6d. to iniied rows to where 3 Montmo- bed, falling L the bank mbers of a rushing of d, sublime, idded force iteam-ferry with some But here, ling doing, attempted; ' river, and b ; indeed, i beautiful da is here pace does, one of the neat boat, lad cattle, t reconcile 1 boat, the V dark, we tintry was I from two Arrived SCENES IN NEW ENGLAND. ' ^ struck and "In^^i Vo of t „ ^'''°'^',''''?«1'"- boat, I'laving to raise herirSful-r/soleVC'^^'" ^ ""'^ ^ *^^-« «l.eVo we arS about i±,'u^"Sl"«'"°' '" V-^-moat, theJiead of tL lake and iS tthalf Is S^^^ 1 '*''"<' tfjas are seen in tbo hnviZiJ^ ^ length, but moun- in the east (Vemon^^^^^^^^ *^" ^T? ^^^^^*^^" ^^»^« we had a sharp fro^t in fL "' i f /f^P"-^ ^'^ '"«"^' "^^^^d, too I had oc'Lo^to^e^ ;^^^^^^^^ teeSetoii^V ''^"^"' on board the boat where we d^iTed f bnn !f .^ 7 !T ""^^^ of many lar^e ones in tlik.rn?i 'I fu -^^ *^® ^^^^^' ^^^ to^i the iSa^t: m.^^L^""''' ^»--« 1-^- geasmg 00k. We pass ™a„y feeJ^rLrX towL" Sof iSoTe'"ca?s''''jl1:,r'-'^""^'^ r"."^ ™^" -^ «^P"r« I W'opriate name to 11 [rswiettc^^''^^^^^^^ '1?^^'''^^.^ '''' and my beloved " SoliHdn " it ^ ,' ^® *^^»^^ *"end, 'sccr,e telow on the W ouk^^''^ ^"'^S I^O'^«o-thc useful world ; butoneLrowP^l clian-ed-no harm in the I busy hum of "row ftlf '''" '"^ '"^"". '«^'*^7 ^^ t^o covered wondeiful woX bridV!^ generations I f he old I not to stagnate near Hvdo pJ ''"""? ^!^' monotony ! .ins into the too close Stvnf fT ''^ ^'i"™ S"' ''°'- ™7 ™ ciewin,- the weed.: ™t« L MyV 7 Wo^ff*'' '^''° wi h a viKour which makes one shudder "'■""^ '"y"' .Jw:2 tcfclS'L^^i^Hvweil eultivated country. tlie " Great VaUeyrrrorw^nvE 'T fr'^-^".""'. brings us to the Brandjwine J;eerfamous t' f, ^"^"'"S'^ Jown, runs battle-atWscnt fiw„.„" lu" ^'*'' "'<^ *'» f<"- a fierce able grist S^tng"^. s Se^tX wt''?'' ."' '"'i""-- joiiis the De]av--a.-,> (uafsim. WV..?T f "^''™"igton. wliere it tkrough beautiful wo^Sd Te,f Of '' "" '\' '''Y^' ™"°''>S with my trousers tiickerl ,„'' ? " '^? ^"y' ''arefooted, foreclsfin spot'wiere it Lt? , P^'f"^ 'H" '•"^ fobbing li!«/,6.fe,. these torSso/:^, .1 T-'*/ '"'^''y bed in thi ftlic awful thuncWusts of T™ •'' ''"'''^ '''''''''"P'*"™™' of *ar stream mnUy^nl svveiTnTTe ^r^' ™?''^S '^^ aiore level banks Tn ],„! ^f *' ™o .eels down from the Oxibrd. • ^"^ '*''y "f ^™ter it equals the Isie at I Tbis finely cultivated valley was vHUA l.,r ti r. ifcyaro the ^bVf «"™l-. "/..■ ^'"™ by the Germans! patter, farmslo 'trie whol'^te^^^'i,!"" *'"'"' *"'"?« *'"' V-, iu a double sensctou^fbe ^e'lf tHS^ t tl h2 m some 100 FARMING m PENNSTLVAKIA. < . ' "f ?' If . ■ " '■H ;.;; ,.' w h ' things, even m England ; particularly in their ample bams, large enough to contain their whole crops under one roof avoiding our more clumsy, ineiBcient stacks. Under all this vast mass of wheat, oats, barley, rye, on one side of the barn floor, and hay and straw on the other, all their numerous cattle are warmly housed in winter, and coolly in the hot sum- mers, when wanted. Indian corn cribs run along and over- hang the south side of every barn, bursting with its polden plenty, and loved of all four-legged and two-legged animals, mcludmg man. Oh, sweet, beneficent, pure, wholesome grain ! how docs one bless God for sending it on earth, a standing miracle of Thy care and goodness ! with the cocoa, nut palm for the hotter climes, conspicuous. I wish we would take to it more m England ; it is so very good, so very plentiful and cheap, so very sweet and nutri- tious ; of this was the unleavened bread ! it is made in a mmutc. As mush (the polenta of Italy), it is eaten all over Amcx-ica ; and how superior to oaten porridge. It is made, too, into cakes, bread, pies, in infinite variety. Horses and cattle like npthing so well ; ground rough and mixed with cut straw, or thrown in their cribs in the cob. The grain is the favoured food of the feathered creation ; ground and mixed in cold Avater it fattens poultry, pigs, &c., quicker than any other grain. ^ The meal, if kiln'dried, keeps very well, and we might have it m any quantity; but, with ourselves, the difficulty is to create a taste for it ! I brought some home with me, and I msist on having a little musk now and then (cut in slices, when cold, and fried) for breakfast ! but alas ! one or two men I tried it on, h-ve but d— d it with fahit praise ! Need one wonder at the cJwiss or Prussians preferring their own coarse black bread P But I shall never get out of the * Great Valley." Wo skirted its southern hilly borders of woods. I looked for Fanstock's Tavern (the General Paoli), a serious, steady, thrifiv man, grown rich more by his fine farm than his brandy, wine, or cider. I saw him— his thin, placid face and kind greeting— in my mind's eye, for he, nay, his very chil- dren (daughters) are gone, and the funny old ostler, who used to give my pony jin a bite of hay, gone. I was rather glad that we flew by, and cut short reminiscent dreamy repining?. All this country is either High or Low Dutch—at least their descendants, and 1 )utr'li or German is their domestic \ ernacular. They used to speak English unwillingly and badly. On a railway one can see ve'-y little of a c ountry, but it struck me there was less neatness in the farms and fi.rming than formerly, and certainly, in the whole length and breadtli of this valley (ten or twelve miles by five or six), the home sieads p woods : more va is one s( ever3'-wl I find is very s the few as the di couductc back war gossiping Lancai thriving many Qi and verj cleared o fuel in al I Hereal cotton fa ; land out, at Lowell are not t( ! very diffic the whole foundries I constant ^ An apo Lancaster, ! wagons of ! size and tl men Is. Tl las Harrisl ourselves, aiiccs. I ] say they s( fi'oni the r; through hi Some fli running tli 'ipoii the f- ^ cry bold a 1 than ooulcl Motliiu^, w. '"'vond the riio view 'ho Huscpii' which Han ample bams, der one roof, nder all this e of tlie barn ir numerous the hot sum. ng and over- li its golden ged animals, , wholesome on earth, a th the cocoa. it is so very b and nutri- I made in a iten all over It is made, Horses and xed with cut grain is the d and mixed [er than any » might have [icultjr is to h me, and I 3ut in slices, one or two lise ! Need g their own the 'Great 3. T looked ous, steady, n than his cid face and | is very cliil- ostler, who! I rather glad I y repining?. !; least their I vernacular. I LANCASTER AND FACTOfilES. IQI n,ore valuable 'Setrrtfei^^^^^^ '"7? ^"•""^^ is one source of wealthTo fe a"d' 0%';^/ ^ tTd everywhere as a manure ' ^^^^ a, the dL™ and ^■inaoZlTl;:.^^^^^^ Zl by The conductors or nassenffers wlm orv.,,o^'Vi i *^P^ii t>y tlie 11 1 t'o^uuu^cis, Avuo amuse themselves frqir*.! !;«,.. backwards and forwards through all the « vfno- nf- " go.ssiping. ^"ui,u au lue stnng of cars, constant great demand. ^"cincs, lor m hich there is a An apology for a turnpike road runs from Philnrlnlr.! • 4. Lancaster, on which forty years am^xi^L .1 1 hdadelphia to Itlum conld Iw, lwJ»...i '^ '^^^"*f^'*^^^^^."*''y"^>tabit8tron4rer iiioihini/rwhon n;w:'::;v. ^;.!!l^'i° ^v*''' ti^^^^ or parapot~aii . i I ■ I 1 ' ■• •••• ilKJ OWl K. <",! ■ i"^M ■ U' '^' 1 tP ** !■ ■J »^t ;, . ■■*■ ' 1 ■'■ -■^■■^■i-Sait 102 i!l ITAnilTflnrnO— TTTK CArtTAt. :|l btii orcn horo Tovcrlionrd convorfliitioriN nhotit unlicalthinoM ! Ono is puKKhnl to iu'(M)nn< for iliin inyHlorioiis iiiinHinn, wliiH» 8001U8 to (nko iH)88<>HHi()tt <>f all (h(» (InoHi. iiiohI. liHlut'iblc* spots • luul yol horo is a. bold, wwky, very open (MMiniry: iiills niu| dnlos in ])rofusion on (*V(M'v si'(l(> ; rocks of limostono and slato biHM»kiHjj[ou|,on t UnitiMl Slatos soatsol' jj^ovornniont. Sinoc* this mil way, how(»vor, tboy aro goinjj iidiojni ; and ])nnor, iro!\, and tin faotorios inorons(», if lean nt all jinlgo by tlio various tall cliinmtws I saw smoking. Nort h ward, among thoso romantic hills.ontbo n])por l>rajiphoa of this noble stream. li«^s fampbcirs ••Wyoming, ()n(^ might look in vain tor snch a sjhW as ho hns drawn itj indeed. t\>r theossiniijd trnth sunl vio'onrof snch tales, the poet shoeld himself have walkiul these Moods, and )>avo witnessed the livos of the Indi!V»s and the primitive settlors. B(>foro I "quit this part oi' the State, a w^ortl apropon of tho pxeellent economy of their barns, their fann-yards, wlioiv their cattle luxuriate in the severe winters in tlu> sun up to their knees in straw, with fodd(>r senlterotl about for their mid-dny's amu8ement--that is. the to])])ings and stripjungs of the corn-stalks, which growing from eight to twelve teet higli, seuus out its beautiAd and vigorous leaves by the yard ; those and the stalk, when dried, tbrm excellent Vood :' indeed, tho stalk when in its lull sap and vigour is ns juicy ai\d as sweet a.s the sugar-cane, which it a good dt^d reseml'>les, htuI notn doubt w.>uld make sugar i>rotiiably. if the corn itself were not still better and more solidly protiiable. This is called tbildrr wluMi dried, and in the south is more relied on to feed tlicir enttle, where grass ami hay is more scarce. Thus on the sunny side of these innnenso stone barns is tlio wann parlour, in eommon tor the whole farm stock: caltlc horses, sheep, pigs, and iioultry. all in astute of delight fiil familiarity ; tho cocks and hens perched on th(> cows' hacks oeeiwionally, or feeding under their feet, all enjoying tliciii- selves. Oiu» might indeed «'fdl it a really "happy family.' had not that ])leasant designation become so odii)U8 from the sneeimcns in n w irt^ engo which still takes up its stand at our National Gallery! But there is a broadcnst plenty, n freeness from want or| hunger both lor nuiu and boast, which nuikes up the chip charm of this i-onntry life, which, joined to a wipe ])niden(H'. albeit (piite animal, and <'\ce{ spots ! ry: iiillM niul ono and dlato 017 TUlMldoWH. >i of t lu' town H»t ), so Mint 1 isinil mpitlly. 1 io liavo vory poot slioiMd 'HHcd tiio lives nropos of tho , ('mhIh, wlieiv U> HUU 111) to nii tor their »tri|)j)inKs of Ivc tcet liigli,! « yard ; these : indeed, tho and m sweet ^«, and notn self \v ere not called t'otldcr to lecul theirl * barns is tlio itoek : ealtlcl of doli|Lfhtlii ' rows' biu'ksl joying thein-| p[>y family.' ,»)U8 from tln'i stand at oiirl 108 and Quaker Arcadia. Not but that they liavo thoir cay ' robcg ooeai^ionftlly: thoir "(JuiltinKH/' their "appie-bnttor Hin'rmKs ' ami " eorn-huHkin^" Irolics j'r. autumnTnll wintc^ wlKMi all tho vall(7 V lUMghbourhoodH moot fyr fiv«^ milog round and least and lauKh, and " Ix^stow thoir todiousneHS." TL uu fr ^'''T ^'^ ''^"'•j""^-" On thoso ocoasions occur th. HO •• bundlmffs" wo havo heard of. , Jiut what 18 most to bo admired in tlio triio American farm- .iR. IS tho perfect knowhnlKo of grandfather, latlu^r. and aoni lo hired soryaiiH aro very rare), of what th.,y have to do; and It iH (lono in tho vory best way, whether wilii tho axo, thi pouKh.tho hoe, or the seytho. 'They haves too, a spioo of the Hwi8« in their s mrp thrift, and m good shots with the ntle ; and go boyon.l tJKW in riches of ovory kind, and a con- stmlllJors! " ''' ""'''"'''' """^ particularly onKugin^r to ui In tho (country parts of America cliurchos aro raro ; all the workl aro D-ssontors of some shade or other ; thoy rido milei trL r7^:' I'h.Mr m(Kitin«.houso8, wIkto miy bo soon, i)orIiai)s, hfty liorses, hitched to the trees or fences j and a dozon or two of thoir lij^rht (mrts or wa^rons, all taking caro of umisolvos outside, whih. tho con|rrogaiion, if (Quaker, are Ril.Mitly waiting (covered) for tho spirit to move some ono : if Uerman or mixed, a J.uthoran or Calvinist oxtomporo service; but th:.rM8 no sort ot acrimony of sect: out of tlio four walls nobody talks of beliefs, no matter what it is. Often there is a great mixture oj cn^eds under ono roof, as a matter of conve- nience, hvon th(^ (iuakors have grown loss rigid. Tho rims ol their hats shrink perceptibly, and buttons abound. Here (uid It really is rotreshing) gentility is unknown, unheard of; the poorest (^roaturo. if hired, eats at tho same table, and ig (pnt(^ on a familiar footing at onco, from the wUds of Conne- inara. our own Rtreot.swo(>i)erH, or tho organ-boy of Havoy— if any sm^h should have tho luck or tho address to find his way over-and persevere out of tho sea-board cities, into the interior : all I novy say holds good more or loss in all tho northern partly-cleared states-from tho vostneas of tho '>K\f^wi Viil?"^^' ^P'"''''''"' 'r^ '^ ^'''''^ ^^^^^ «^ near -.), K )(),()( )0, still tlio (country population is very thinly scattered. and hands and labour always welcome. -" •^ "* nien again, whihr t ho men are in tho fields or woods, the women attend to tho household concerns, milk the cows rno man over nons^. nffntwl fn 4lw»;« ^«-P— i. ,j_:_;__ 1 • 1 ^ alw-ays over pure springs, and called " sprmg-homcsr No matter how rich, there is seldom or ever a hired maid ; and if tliere is, ton to one she instantly merges into ono of thoraselvea. or beeoraos shortly their sister-in-law. In all this perfect economy, perleut plenty, and progress to weU-being and wealth, ^'^u^ S . ft, » J * IJ? ' '■» . If -i 104 RUSTIC MIND— AND MATTERS. I' there la but one in^clect— there is no garden beyond a few poorly-raised vegetables, though each farm has a fine orehard of apples, peaehes. and cherries ; but tlie men have no idea of or tune for, horticulture. Potatoes are riiu\ and in great plenty ; but few turnii)8, or beans, or peas, and never in their lields : there are very tew sheep, fewer pastures ; no downs or commons of any kind, on this side of those rolling prairies of the far west ; thence, apart from the grandeur of their woods and rivers, American scenery is very formal, indeed u«lv wherever settlers meddle with it, from the constant post and rail divisions of the fields, or by still uglier worm fences and, III the newer farms, the stumps of trees; the absence of anything like a park, or a lawn, or a flower-garden, at or near their houses, whicli, in turn, are much inferior to their barns in size, often in good looks and conslriiction ; the rieliest farmers, perhaps, living in a small log or frame-house, while his barn is of stone, towering tw o stories above his vory humble roof; a sensible proud humility; for all his riches are eom])rised in the irrand barn and farm-yard, and there is wisely concentred all hia care, industry, and attention. As to mind, the amenities, accomplishments, and elegancies of life, they would only enfeeble, and do mischief here; and who ex})ects it P In our dear old England we are eaten up by gentility— enfeebled by it— bored by it : we are so excessively genteel, that we are forced to be rude to each other ; and can by no accident ever be natural and sincere, iu or out of the c'ountry, so much afraid are we of each other's hair-splitting j>reten8ions to caste and fashion ! I have, of course, the h ighest respect and consideration for our *' ten thousand" small i)rc. tenders at the heels of the ton, expectant ; but what is one to say of our really great people in high places, who guide us, and their very ftu^hionable followers and creatures, who, to a man are so very good-for-uothingly exquisite, that they disdain to do their othcial duties decently, or condescH'ud to be sufHinently vulgar io know, or be at all alive to anything that is going on about them in the world, beyond the trifling West-eml ex- clusive circle P* jhit how pains-taking and truly industrious in their trifling !— in the shape or sjieed of a horse— in the import- ance of a particular club, t)ie Opera, or French play, or French dish— -or the sublime impossibility of a ball at the Palace ! Oh, Jingland ! Oh, my country ! what are your ships like— what,' your sailors— your \toov fishermen and your shores P— what of our one river, and ot our one city, flooded with idle luxury diii :ti:ti 4l ., 1 at tjie station luxui^, iCting abuaCw and abouiinations P — but a-pioce, hold !— I am offered some indiflerent apples at six cents Seven or eight miles beyond Harrisburg we eomo to the ♦ Sadly conspicuoua in the conduct of the present KussJiin war. spurs of the All, one of it Wen through more or !)ufc ther Tow'n. T Ibuuilto consider) As wo (lie hills I'iiilway c below us anro.ss — t niul grai; miles ; oi nipt prec to see the laying pi (Iccompofl /(lories, w After a ifiaiits of I houses in£ in (heir vi horrid aw and in du( Si)ruce riv |ofpcrha])s I crossed an and iinallj into the st One ma; forest and' and retrea and ice for torpid stat: [fithor roun At a jut |"-l.»l« ten tl.ous3iw™^7 I te^^ ^f?'"' One may iniagmo the peculiar beau ies of ti. kind of wll,l At a junction fitation-Iiouao and hotel amilo hn^nr^AiT r 1 . 1"<) linppv to warm our fln,rn^. „,.j .„. ,. '"^ ^'^^'"- . ifiiliiS Wliel at my nuseries <>/« Dickens), and hLSe me ove^ •'tbout concern to tiic tender mercies^;? tho mraluMantern U] t ' ■» I ■ • 100 VnnT COLT) — QUEER RMALL TALK. at four o'clock — in midnight darkness — to dress and get up a proviaioiiarv appetito for very iougli boc^fRtoaks, mountain and torrent stiilo bnmd, and some pure Mocha — into which tJio torrent had Burely broken, before it boiled and filled our cups at five o'clo(rk — when the passengers just arrived lielped us to " do justice to the mejd," Now, to sup at one and oreakfast at live is not at all a bad contrivance — for the tavern-keepers I — so, having paid my dollar and a-lialf for tliis pleasing arrangement, and conilortable lodging— I once more ascended the cars; and after a pleasant search (all the seats occupied within *V^ deg. of FahrenluMt, or any heat), I made a lodgement in the comfortable draught of the door ; truly, it was llobson's choice; and never shall I forget the ascent and descent of the Alleghanies I the weather each twelve hours growing more in- tensely cold. It was ihe middle of De(Hunber, and perfectly natural : but still people woidd insist on the extreme mildness of the winters for these last twelve years all over America! and that there would be no frost and snow to signify before Christmas, certainly; pendant icicles everywhere commented on the inipettinence. Our way lay up the pass of the Spruce Creek by the steep nu>untain side, precipices to the right, but thick woods and noble trees would catch the cars if they went off' the rail; so we couldn't fall far, and our pace upwards was not too swift, ])erhaps twelve or hfteen nules an hour. At one spot wej canu> to a stand-still, overhung by a crag of most superb slates, in such exuberance breaking themselves out, a few tons had j just shot down across our way, and local navvies were clearing them off for us. A thousand tons, loosened, threatened us j over head. This was an escape we were not a bit thankful for, but grumbled at the stoppage. For my part, I tried to calculate what such a hill of nol)le slate slabs woidd be worth at one of our artificial stone-yards on the New-road, Mar}-- lebone, but it was impossible. Near me sat a most pretty, precocious, inde[)eudeut young lady, who kept up a loud in- cessant gabble (going honu> from some hirge boarding-school, highly finished, willi her brother} with a Pittsburg practi- tioner, just introduced. Good heavens ! what stuff did these two talk. But Ihe only sini>ular part of it was the scandal, of who and who were courting, who pretty and ugly, mixed with the grave disquisition of trite mundane things, politics, and finally pills, where the brother ventured to cut in. Tho| Pittsbiiri!" iHjui* who was absurdly oallaut* thouffh ft tnari'ii' man, being a great philosopher, declaring aloud that it was essential to humbug his patients very often, and give tlieiu| bread ])ills excess] and be We dillbrii bold, Tj cities. ()»ie is I this gi snow, 1 We hn taken o thcs(i b or ran young of a coi I she canal or these n pass, to Thes« on each across o would li W(» wer At lengi nior(> tai As in rush dov on the ( under o\ In a w came, fo still forlrj out, and u]) waitii and I rot dcred at iiorses* f( saiive qwi fv'ar bein have to r We all ♦1 iiu-j- eirt imagined tliough ]i eleven iro All this was really only remarkable from its erudencss, itsi the idea PBER;!tNO IN fiTAGKS. 107 li !i Tnn-mo'.i aiSnr'aftcnn ^j-i'/li''^ '"■^""'"™" J"mo,ti., manner,; thiH jrrand ridgo of •••bluo mountains " Nnf fhl^ n .u As in all mountain ])a8sc«s, iiao cMiinff stroarafl risn nn,l ni«Ii down on both sidos. So hero wo left tlio Snr.,.! i?^^ on the east side, and tlio Loyalham'a on t^To^S Vu^he^ under our eross.ng viaduct, a tributary to the Lnon J"d^^ 1 n a wdd spot (Lockport F) on the western sicks vveaf In n'h olfn« p««^ ^i. A- "^Vi^? ^A^'^ blast. My • r^ V ' ^"" leainern curtains tlie idea of warmth or shelter from tho cutting .■5 jK^i- 108 ,..i,.'M ;i ■ 1^ 4. ABBIYE FBOZEN AT PITT8BUEG. teeth chattered, my limbs trembled. Milliona of deaths occur with ten times lesa suffering than that of this wretched purga- tory of twenty-eight miles. As to our luggage, it might come on, or'bei)itched into the Loyalhanna, which was mean- dering somewhere about, getting frozen like ourselves. But what must have been the feelings (or no feelings) of the drivers, and a few stray unfortunates -who had to sit outside during that abominable drive ! The jolting, though enough to dislocate one's limbs, was a kind of pleasure ; and yet, oh ! outside I could hear them laughing, pulling up at various wayside taverns for a dram, ay, it couldn't be too strong. And the horses, always good and fast, tore us along witli glee, thinking, jjoor things, of their stable and their ccrn. I'm not sure, but think the same set took us a full trot the whole distance. I instinctively ran for it, and got into the last twelve-mile rail-cars along the right bank of the Monongahela down to Pittsburg, where we arrived near midnight in a torpid state. But what I suffered from cold further down the Ohio this winter makes jill this mild initiation a mere matter of moon- shine. An hour in a fierce snow-storm, hunting out our bags and baggage, and a mile ride in an open omnibus, for twenty- five cents, to the Monongahela Hotel, was yet not the ** deeper still" reserved for my crude inexperience. I was now a mummv, but I had yet to be unrolled. Well, this large soot-begrimed (worse than London), black, brick town, was now clothed in a pure white frozen mantle. Indeed, natives and passengers were equally astonished at this extreme and sudden severity. Stoves wore red hot (coals are here just as at Newcastle, and the town is a coarser Bir- mingham) ; but, however, resolve to mount the long cold cor- ridors, and seek one's icy bedroom. Well, all sufferings, great and small, have their nleasures, by the contrast of in- termission. I was alive and lively next morning, and rambled about the town in the snow. Pittsburg is in a most beautiful situation at the confluence of the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers, on a flat peninsula, under the fine picturesque hills of the Monongahela on the cast side ; to the west, in Ohio, all is comparatively flat near the town, though distant hills appear ; and, altogether, it is a charmmg country. Both these rivers are largo, and navigable a long way upwards, and form, at the point at the south end of the streets of the suburbs, the g^cat Ohio. Large hand- some bridges, on the iron susuension plan, cross both rivers to the centre of the town: while on the east side, on the Monongahela, some forty or fifty Ohio steamers lay at the wide sloping strand, with their noses on shore ; no need of ieatlia occur died purga- 3, it might I was mean- elves. But ngs) of the 3 sit outside igh enough nd yet, oh ! ' at various too strong, along with ? ccrn. I'm •t the whole twelve-mile )la down to Drpid state. lo Ohio this 3r of moon- ut our bags for twenty- t not the ce. was Ion), black, sen mantle, tonished at i hot (coals !oarser Bir- ig cold cor- sufferings, trast of in- nd rambled confluence I peninsula, ela on the y flat near ther, it is a 1 navigable » soutli end arge hand- both rivers le, on the lay at the 10 need of fOUNDBIES-^lNGENlorS CONTEIVANCES. 109 pans, boilers, ploughshares, and all the useful SV of iFnrr?' vare, is in coarse profusion— for as vpf +w i ^^^^^y^^^ ^^^d- tlie more delicate brariPW !,?^i^^y^* *^®7^iavenot come to etoel. hammers, saws, planes, riees, L."raS A^^d T 11 c on yet I Ihese ingenious contrivances pytpnrl fn f.J!.- implements, and usefal novelties of ot^er descrintionf^n"^' hardware people should travel] so sWdrrTtSv„ •?'''' wi ' ^^ ^®^^^ dreamt of -^"feiana, irom wav-but what is dififised throushout thei^TrJ • "'" body's hands, making the mimSl w" ' "'^ '" '''"'^- i-ittsC^ F, „? "T'^""? ""^ *" ^/^^^ ''"'I "se^M ' i-ittsBurg IS already a large and nonnlona mt„ ^e . ij 110 OHIO STEA.M-BOATS. ?¥ ■ .^^•■, .^ .4. the great cabin fore and aft variously divided in fialoons, state cabins, &c., being supported before the paddle-boxes on stancliions— all open on deck— the centre up to the axle of the wheels occupied by the furnaces, boilers, cylinders, and pistons, which work horizontally (nearly), with double-hinged arms, direct to the axle behind the boilers, which, ranged in pairs, of cylinder shape, too, of perhaps seven feet diameter and twenty-five feet length, are placed horizontally on a brick- work platform on the deck. All the boats have two great funnels over the fire-grates. Coal (which is in the cheapest abundance, cropping out in many spots along the Ohio, and requiring hardly more labour to get at than a common stone quarry at the water-side) is burned all down the river, and would be continued, as much the better fuel and more* economical, up and down the Missis- fiippi, but that they cannot afford to take up so much of their freight with it, having other deck cargo; and even on the Ohio, rather put in at various coal dep6ts as they come up and down, than encumber their decks with it too much at a tmie. These immfense boats draw astonishingly little water- loaded to the "guards." that is, almost level with the deck Itself, only from four to five feet— with perhaps 800 or 1000 tons, and towering on the water twenty feet high, perhaps sixty broad, and 200 feet long. All carry passengers, as well as cargo. Their tables, saloons, servants, state cabins, &c., are much in the same way as on the eastern sea-board. One of these fine boats, ready to start, I watched from the parlour window of the hotel, sorely perplexed whether to go on board at once, or run the risk of the river closing entirely by remaining a day longer ; for already I saw, when on the north side of the town, the Alleghany river filled with floating ice, though the Monongahela (the larger, and '^ommg from the south,) was as yet free j indeed the thing was so very rare, that nobody would believe the river below could be closed I however, the intense cold ought to have made them suspect it ; besides, at hotels they are never anxious to get you away, so I suffered this boat, the mail, to depart, not without doubts as to the morrow, which certain recollected sage maxims reinforced very uncomfortably. In ordinary weather many boats come and go eveiy day, and there is no sort of dillicully about a passage ; in such weather, still snowing, and freezing great guns, walking „....„,. „,„^ i^^^. jji^,aaant, anu. i/O uDisurvu nimuteiy, aimcuit. The entrance of a canal in the north-east suburb, and its locks, gates, &c„ in ruins, might be traced to railroads casting their shadows before ; and beyond them, on the -e elevated '■■■J i.1 uvivl blow up, il ! saloon moi I almost alw DOWN THE OHIO. Ill bants, I could seo wliero all the iowu came from, in tlio still bus^y and extensive brickyards, kilns, &c. There is not an essential thing that nature has not pro- vided them with here in a rich abundance on the spot. Thus the Americans everywhere start with unheard-of advan- agc8, and all the pamfiilly, expensively, and slowly- acquired knowledge of England and of ilurope. If I wonder at all. I begin to wonder rather at the many faults, evils, and iimo- rances they have perpetuated among themselves, with no possible good reason or excuse. But I must be off: it is too cold to moralise ; and the boat is about to start (next day), he ice floes and lakes increased, so that the report conies tliat great difficulty is found in ascending the river from below at all ; aiid when we got below the town, fairly in the Oliio, we found it fuU of ice grating harshly at our sides, and> aough not yet packed much, looking rather ominous; far as tlie eye could eaten down the reaches, a devious serpentine course starting for the first sixty miles in a north-west direction, w-andering away from the point we aim at-the south and Cmcmnati— which is, by the river, distant five hundred miles, but, as the crow flies, only about 300-^tho current ruunmg three or four miles an hour, and our speed. m epite of having to cut through the thickening detached ice. about ten miles. , The boat's stem is iron-shod, with plates of iron to guard I he bows, and yet there is some danger of the ice cutting through. Ihe captain, a good-natured jolly feUow, with a very red face, has a hard time of it^up night and day, though he has a pilot ; for the river has many shoals in the middle, near the shores, and often shifting, so that it requires all tiieir intimacy with every reach, every landmark, and I turn (when one bank has to bo crossed over to or left) to avoid grounding. ^ The excessive severity of the cold, felt more and more away j rom any shelter, makes keeping the deck a duty only possible I to strong men inured to a very rough life. The roughest Kentuckians and severe 'Kansas colts on board couldn t stand it, even for a walk on the roof-deck, or round the guards, but kept snug in the fore smoking-cabin round the red-hot stove ; the windows in front crowded by those who preferred looking down the river. This fore cabin is directly over the boilers, and I confess I I merMt quite easy there, though I got pretty well hardened |u it, uuiuru J. got aowu to IN ew Orleans. When there is a blow up, it IS this fore part and its contents that suflers ; the saloon more behind, particularly the ladies' end at the stern, almost always escaping j but, in spite of the terrific accounts ^ 112 rtouamNrt TitnoraTt tttk icu. winch oOoii roiioli m in KuKlnnd of jlu-g,^ blowings up, jt ,'„ ronuirknhic lu>\v Ulllo t'.oiico or fcjii- il, rronloH niiioim iliosn wlio HIT usod io it. Tlioy iicvoi* s«mmu Id ^ivo il ii Ihoiiirhl To onjoy tlipir (MKurs, (Avo-iliirds of llio hkmi wvro coiiHtMiillv cminmtnl ovor Mii« crnlor of ihoir llonling \^«Htiviii«, noniV novor Hiirnnu: niHl'^t- nor day, ox(M>pl, to oafc and visit iho •• harbor 8 Hhon." lor l(>n nnd Iwonly-nNv ocni. dniniM ai tlu. bar, or bavo Iboir boards IrimTnod. ' In Huh ••Rboi)"nll th,, immwasli of a voonnnK, i^\'i\i'\n: two or iJnvo baHinw and n iadv4o\V(d ov two Horvos oxcolionl.ly woU for 8f»v(Mily or u luindrod— but tb(M-o all luxury ondH,* unpaid for, oxtni. I !oast thing, than sdvor— tbo livoponny-bit or ])io!'!iyuiu', and tbo dinui or im cout pioco ; cvou iu the uuirkots tlio nhoapost vogotabloa, Sec, nro pat into " piooayuno" or " dinio" tiny heaps or bvniolics. Ifn, beggar* slioidd aoeoat yovi (and such things are, though- >/. i/.i rare), youeannot oiler less than silver, nnd y^ u uuiy uuiko itl way, the Irish " tinpenny, good luok to you,^' without bein J Uumv thought at all too genoroi^s. In all my long journey, I founil no \ise whatever for a few loose cent's J happeneil to havo. about me when I left riiiladelphia, so T threw them into mvi t_ruuk to await my rettu'n to tlie northeru stattvs ; indeed. \ felt ashamed of them, though a handsome coiti. atul had soiiio horrid thought^s of conmiitting them to the dee]) iu the M issis- jHuldlo. wiiioh I 1)1 ICO Wi ice. did VVe ^ off pass iiiul ho' river, tl bank, w wc are i uiglit, a in Ohic sicainer, (if reacli burg wo (list, lift; Ours \ II clever tho roof boon eau of the w atu ay ciiougb il 13ut wi lis beaut Ncason bi leaf; the moving ; But wliat wa-tho state of Ohio on the right, and VirSn a on the ft, succoeJinir PennsvlvnnJn ..« +kA.' ,i „ . "^^ , ^^ .^" ^']^ lings up, it iH among tlionn it a tliougjji, •re eonstfiutlv •SUV ins, RomV and visit tho drams at tlu« sliop" nil til,, basins and « seventy or h extra. Vm L)f ^ten e(>nl,s ig your ])ort. put on board. down to lh(> cent 18 never t thing, than dime or ton getables, tltc, i or bunches. ^ are, lliougli uiay mnko it ilhoiit beinif i'm Toms, rate fare (six- Yer our iood whatever, or IY2 "ft 114 CINCINNATI ALL ICE, !>■ * * about the nsinff and fallins: of the rivor many feet ! and or]v calculated the frequency of the boats bem^ forced to get new tunnels— they are so soon burnt out ! Apropos, the expense of these boats m this cheap country is enormous ; a nkedium- sized one from Pittsburg to New Orleans (and I sm not sure It back again) costs her owner in wages, wear and tear, coals and wood, wharf dues, &c., five thousand dollars ! One may judge how profitable the freights must be to make anything out ot It, reckoning passengers and all, numerous as thev always are. •' Kentucky (looking, I often think, more inviting than the Ohio side) succeeds Virginia on our left, aU the rest -f the way to Cincinnati, which city we reached, happily, on the tlr.rd day at noon ; and well wo might be glad of it • for the last t\yenty.four hours our boat has been often cutting through the solid i'^e, hard enough to have borne a horse otten obliging us to ease the engine, to back, to manoeuvre, and go at it again, at the risk of cutting through the bows entirely for they were found very near it ! half the wheel floats broken and the boat much damaged along the water-hne : in a word we had not long taken our place among the other steamers at tJie strand m front of the city, before the whole were frozen m immovable; but not before one or two of the outsiders were crushed. After all we have heard of this famous western city, I am ntteriy disappointed in itself, and in its looks from tlie river Jiut It IS too excessively cold to look at anythin^r • a few hack carriages trotted down, and I jumped into one, as the shortest way to hnd a hotel and shelter of some kind. I reallv thought my fingers and toes would be frozen before we got i^ the Broad^^'ay irntel close by, in the Broadway- street. JN ever was anything more di«mal: the sun shining brilliantly not a cloud and not a soul in the streets— indeed, for a day or two, nobody went out of doors not forced to, and then nt a full run All the hotels and boarding-houses full of trayel- lers unable to get either up or down ; partieuLrly, it was said, great numbers of gamblers and scamping loafers, who make a good thing of going up and down these rivers in the stean.- boats, llius pent up here, and rendered dispcrate by their honest cxi)enseH, the^y were spoken of as vevy unwelcome cus- tomers ; ancl not a few of them, if one might judge by their queer exteriors, had taken U]) their (piarters at this same liot(;l ; but as I never play cards, and don't mean to walk out U iiigiii , nor (lay (.ither, with the tliermometer below zero ten or twelve degrees. 1 need care nothing about them. Still there was tbe universal printed caution on my door a})out keeping one s bedi-oom-door locked, and nobody accoimtahio for robberies. "^ MES. TBOLLOPE's BAZAAB—koTELS. 115 The usual discomforts of American hotels are nothing in summer, but here I have tliem in full force. I shouKueh Fefer a stable, even without straw (and with a stove) to the sit^UK^room in this hotel; one of the best here and only second to Burnet's, which is an immense pile, but inan out of he-way street, while this is in the centre of al the stir ami fashion of the town, and pretty close to the river-bnt indeed the stove is surrouncfed by a rough lot with nil iZt amenities and damp accompaninfents. To r^^c^ of writ^ or converse, all equally impossible, so I walk from one room to another look m at the barber's aiid bar-room, and ouTa? he windows; a desperate Kentuckian rides daringly down ptemert ' ''""' ^'^' ^'^^' estabUshed a slicfe V the Cincinnati is considered the queen of the Ohio, the wonder of the American medium western world, and t is I Wo brick, built city, of a hundred and sixty thousand souls not adl3r placed below some nice hills on al elevated C^^^^ lie rver (here, and all along, about half a mile wide) i^rkes a bold bend opposite the Licking river, in Kentucky? wS has Its large town of Covington on one side, and Newton on the other skirted by very picturesque wooded hills behind them! I thnk It much the prettiest side of the two, for the cSv people hero wont et tfieir nearest hills alone, bit are cuttTn^ into them, roads, levels, brickyards. &c., so that aSy t^^^^ :f^atu^dti^^^^^^' ^^^^^ '''''' -^ ^^-- ^«-S The streets are wide, but except this Broadway, not wide enough, and crossed, as usual, at right angles • a Tanal whlh nins UP the valley of Mdl creek, sU tL northern "^^^ the locks oponing on the river. ""uuio. There arc a good many handsome churdiea, meeting-houses lal 8 hotels assembly-rooms, asylums, and other -nubliV limldings meludmg a theatre ; son.e of the private houses are vmr handsome, and all are on a largo scale, and at iSronts It . the usual proportion of frame-houses at the eXmS he older streets, whieh are planted with trees (theXe! roe, horse-chest.iut loeust, and maple). In the aulmrWe good many mannfaetories, and the smoke as dense SyTw .or±?' r™'"' ^°'""'"' ''""'"p- ""'«" i" ruins Xwir. 1 ' " 'f !"'' '.•''™go c'™ -n comparatively recent speculatioiw Airs. TrolloT»e's bazaar* 'a.^nr.,,,^ „ *„., v -, . ^ " v-.-.iTT«jct » iaiiiiruj ; it iiuH been lonff smco occupied as an oceaVion^l■\;tur;ro^^,'Vn r,^™U.a- uito an apothecary's shop, and other stores T le ft , do^ 1. 1 comparativelv handsome, in the modern Gothic in nite f the nnmense 6r,ek l.uihiings, as hotels and s o^s Xh l»vo uuce sprung up each side of it. She left it, 1 dwo say 1 2 ^ ' III riii m m t m n ia - umi '^ -^^ J "i 116 ASflASSINATIONS—FRENCn CONTEMPT. It* the largest Imildinp^ in the street ; but even Mra. Trollope is forffotleii—low reeollect who built it, or for what purpose- anil ii(t iittonipt ut u baznnr suceeeded it. This is the seiiHon of balls. The liromen and Germnns Jire advertising a Vcnm, Other aniU8i>nu»ntH seem Bcareo, even when the weather relaxes a liltle. The town is badly lit ; and even the men are afraid to go out at night, exeept \n parties and armed. Several citizens are mentioned in the papers as missing most mysteriously I Our evening loiinge for idlers (and iho whole town is now forced to be idle) is the evening auction marts, where every eoneeivablo thing is sold—if it eomes up to tho ])riee ex- pected ! Books, pictures for farmers and log-houses, clothing, &c. J do not go, nor to the tlu>alre. Shut up in this May one finds some other riinuscnuMit. The place is ruU of French bagsmen, or adventurers, up from New Orleans, or down fresh from Paris. Here is one who has been hero some time with a venture of pictures for this market ; but tliey wont sell, and he is forced to try it on by the liammer. Every night when he returns from the sale h(> is loud in bad English, interlarded ifcith French, against " Dis stupide peoples, good for nutting but nuike do pig an.d finally ro,lo him o tor a U'ry ugly pace, where some of tho ice had been broken atThe The whole scene, though comfortless and desolate enonch -.^. .! a uii ihv country round, clothed in one mr sluig, hiKl I not becji so very cold; so I rcitained the This same wide etraud is paved, oud on ordinary occueious hi 118 HAT AND POlTLTllY INTIMACY. Iv^ 18 full of l)aiivls, boxoH, cjiacH, caris, luid k)nj;.l)odied drays oxpivssl V for oarry ing tlour barrels, hacknoy coadioH, atid crowlls of iMMjplo ; Willi a conslnnt loadinj,' mul iiidoadin^r of tho nuniorv)U8 sleamors, arrivals and doparlurcH. Evoii now it i^ Iivoly ouough, for half tlio town are out to boo or iro on tlio rivor. All the 8loro8 on lliis rivcr-faco have a socond-hand, slop appoaranco. or of a low ixHldlinjif onh^, net out in ^\nm eaHcs; a groat nuxhiro of llu> gaudy nnd snpeHliious in tlio waicll atui trinket way (French wnres) ; or, if iinoful, in olotliinir tools, iire-aruKs (very luueh after the fashion of Tetor rindai-^il razors), Raid to ho cheap, and sure to bo good for nothing; with bold toutors vA each Mhop-door ready to imunco on their vietini, slu>uld ho venture io look at anything. This exces- sive attention is ])erhjipa sharpcMiod by the cold, and con- se«pient slackness of Irade. But in all Yhe hoi els and stores one hears nothing but this laiuont over llio slackness of trado Jlero the gnNil stai)le8 are in hog'a WMi (Ukmico " rorkoi)olis"), ikmr and whisky. In the upper imrt vi' the lown, n<»ar llio canal, are several iininenso pork-killing and curing establish, menla: half a million unfortunate pigs are killed here in the year ! salted, i)acked in barrels, anil exported ; and Covington, <»pposit(^, shares in this lliriving trade. Here the streets arc l\ill of fat ])iga, jind fat rats. A])ropos— I juon? than onco amused myself watching these sagacious creatures in a back yard, luule-^ my window, where an Irish girl regularly fed some fowls on potatoes, Scv. The chief rat village here was under a pile of wood; as soon as the cocks and hens wero busy eating, lirst one would run out and reconnoitre, run back, then out would coino a dozen, and watch their chance umler the legs of the poultry, while their backs wero tuniod run off with the largest bit; every now and then the fowls would chase them back under cover, but they still returned while a morsel remained. Ko noises seemed in the least to irighten tlkmi, or even the presence of the Irish girl, as she uas quite expected and V(M'y constantly looked for by both jnirties. The fowls seemed only to resent their meal bcintf thus stolen, but no sort of surprise^ or ])anic at the intrud(>rti^ Ouo old cock seemed to watch the most bold of the rals lus they ailvanced, as if from the "orner of his eye, tluMi make a bolt after the most daring, but ho never could gd H peck at them , on which he would return f^om the chase with a dignilled air, as much as to aav. •' You omn,^ flmt agair, that's all!" During the few days I remained, I saw an immense nuiiihor of wngous loaded with dead hogs, stifl", piled and loaded liko wood, ready to bo cut up. taking to the salting warehouses. Ihey say now, that the two railways here already interfere riaS— WHISKY— ^LOUB. 119 1 f*(Urn» fliiil witli lUiH monopoly of pork, by ruuniiiR ofF iUo pigs alivo to Tho quantity of whisky and fino wheat flour collontcd licro, too. 18 enormous j tmnn upped up and down tho river, and to tho 8ca-hoard cities. Tho JiouHes in Broadway, in Walnut, Main! and byeamore-streets (and fashionable For th-Htroet), ore ii.aiiy of tl.em very liandsome ; all are well built, but tin, 8(r(u,t8 are very dirty ami badly paved ; the shops not so good or HO wellarran^.d as one myit expeet to sei in ho JaL a p uee, but there is a central air of careless m^i^hi'A. m every- tlnnKwhicli meets the eye as to public arrangements ; and 1 am told the policy is a mere moelcery. Like so many (.ther American cities, tlio mayor and municipality, cliosen from the favourites ot the citizen mob, are afraid to make Htrinirent or wliolesome regulations ; or, if made, to enforce them I Their own daily papers are full of c vivor Imi^K h,'H» i« itt iMtitis. Thit NoHlu-vn Kiuhv«,N »t«(ioH is it\ (hit* <|\uu'(or, tnul in Iiu'ho mid luuuinottip. I mn twi oh>«BO» t\ hnnioh ul'lho oiuuil i\\u\ llio om'h. niitl Hum I'Hilwft^V, U> nU oorti dopAiN. nii«) wIumv « Mnt^ iumv «( miner. g. All (ho lmlio«' nilMnn lu\v«« h <'u]ml invr tho iUhm\ "nnilo wi^nillonnl." m\\ \\\v \u\\\vvn, A\n^oum of Wmv iimuonno bonts drnning no lil(1«» wnivv, nmMluM' jiHiior Mvs; "ThiMM^w »tonuuM\ M«\jor A. llmviw, willi Ihm* f»ng|»n.(< on l>tvn inohoN wiUtM*. Low wnlrr Mill n«>vri' givo hor innoh (i>n»Mi\"* WvMno of (l(0!^o noiioop flvo MnHling. TlniKj "(h'r I I'om. |Ojon<« jm» tnmlo in vnviotni imvls oi' Mn» oily in ivgitrtl {n olo(ho!« hnng on< on linom (lo «lrv) luMti^ Nlolon." WIimI noxi.* Aijnin. njn^mos off ho nvort '" It i» onlonJMfod ihnl Iwoiily thousand pc^ojAo otnwod K «hinn>( Hiiii. thiy. (<\mlo«.ol»rtrgoti iwo tlolhu's nnd n ImiC lo niunv hornon tho >\«y rtotwis Iho rivor. n\\x\ Wmv xlAhw-n for n horm* juul uiir This Wm» nnorn. \Vlio\v 1 >\hMl a linio llioro x^ill hoi m\ onipiiv of grnulsUMios in n oras'.v whirl will ho nothing toil." i>no wonhl nol o\pool li> hoar of lo hoVo. Iml T oxtraot rt\>ni iho ^ipors ai^jain : " TlnMMMiro a Innulrod and hOv lH>y»nnd ^irls at prosont intlio honwo of nd\igo." Again: **Tho tnistoos ofhoo ;n^ntinnos lo ho tho allraolivo plaoo of »1istn\«s: tho lilllo mmmu was ovtnvdod I hvvnglnml yoshM-dny with tho |wr and dostit\ito. asking roliof of tho oily!" To ho .lo of oaliing for it. if pn^nisod : it nnist bo tak«M» to thoni. and tl\on vory badly dono. Ibit 1 nnisl bnn!'«» ni ono or iwo things oharaotoristio o( thoplaoowhou Hio rivor * This imans li|tht. an«t not a v«»rj- Inryo lK)ttt ; but Uu' gnat f>rtatlt/i. ami th<►.<'»^^»f«!t>f^ givo ihis oxcolUut quality i tt iMTVHdw all An>crlc«n- buUt \-t»«cls ; givuig swiflnrttn mw. 181 ii ntid uuml wv\mtm (Jmw r(,f,i«.» .III vyilh Mio wind (Voin Mm. )„iJn,y hcmiMi , Mh- rivor jh hmikUm ii|> i(« K'.v ImmuIiiwo, Mnd Mm wlioio l,»ivvii m mlW. I l( i« it«rohi.l.iiiw ^^Unl ^nwml jc.y if, diHimMH. '|'|,„ wliolo «nlofHi(lo mi.l ill M,o nimM ovni-ylMMly mm Im.mv n« \mm ', H(oi,iii«oMn.« lip nil honnl |,wPiil,y ImxiIh ImmiimI nn i,ihI down i Ijiid or my luiH, I riiHlmd l<> Mio Niriuid (,o him-iiio n licrMi on l'.'nnl •«nii..Mim«.n.„vi|,i„^,oviir:My<.d m,(, Mio rlmnco (d'ortrrtpo. III.' iiiiKiKi^ool MiP|Mill'ii,dv('r(,iM(MiM>ii(,H i«oiiil,(Mivorpo»vI'r. liiiR wh.-ro .'liouHr vvlioii HuvU Ml.iiiiiiin^ ox.m.IIcih.o )m-«oIh (mo <;voryMmiK. I f*U\\l u\y .'yrw on M,o d/iily |m-oh« mid uo HimiKil ovor Mm iiiviMiig plMiil«« on lionrd ono ol' Mio mmiy lorn (Ml hUwium-m (wikIiI, Imrn on licr way d<,wii~Mio I'mil iAiMl..r«('ii- londod to Mm KinirdH. londcd (,o Hiiilnhir, lo,,,,],.,! U, y ''' "•<' »"> 'iinihM'. Ai'ivv Mm(„ aiMi iilVor I lm,d paid my lim- vviMi my vyvn rdiut (oim should m>v«lH of cohI, H«.vm»l,y -THCH und mglil, Intmlrrd iiirkovH mid IowIh, wliicj, poor liiiiKH h.id hvim jo'pl, ill ,,,«llnrM linirdmd, during lliiN trommi- 1I..UH IroH. iMid wvvo now irniiHrcriTd to Mi<» Jinrrirmiodccji, "•• 'ippn' roof of my rlioHmi Htcunior. OI' all tliiiiKH in tho l"';i;d I MlHmId ImviMivoidcd Miin parMcnlar Noal.'H ark. Mmm hunt wnHalivii.ly rnjl londcd. Imt. „,t Mm la«t ni.,miuit, iniKi Iw.) honrM allor tlicy had Holmntily promiHiMl (liko tho I'l'iiiK "oms two. Ilircir of tli<« am-Monirr) to ho " «on<%" l('m» unhappy Ikuwh and tiirkryH iipja-arcd on Mio wido hliand. I lu«y .'(mhl not ho roHiHtod. What ! rduHi! doilarH I wuitHi^nilirH «;(.inf< down in (ho niiddhxd'Mm rivor! or any J'Hitioiui! niiHcry to Hilly HonMn. ■nt, or no nlorp for Mk! hii/hly. ll-'V'Mnvd cabin pamM»K<'rH lor a wholo wiu-k or tc^n d.iyn. VVcll only iMght liourH alter Mie hiHt hormj Iwul luuui coaxed I'll h(»ard, and mIiiIo tim Htoam valvon had hocn for no nmnv i , ". ~ ••. Ti:^ i-.i nui xr. uuvcn/iB(TmeniH and |"l<'iini promiMCN. Umn a low inon^ (.oalH—only Hix hundred ,"'"'"''« >'"kJi<' «w well lill lip all round tlu^ hoilers, and h-avo Iiiu( an inch to plant your Ib.M, on tli(» dock, and not an eucou- iiKing MM h ol HeeininK *^]nm^ Hafety for tho ruHhing river and rwk ic'j bursting aud crushing witk the headlong Btroam— at r mtiia «\vts»|» ivMMil (lu» Honlh Hit«i |Mi«Hv woihI^mI |u»ImI mimI Ml! lotting \t« ^\>. Huroly wo n«o nlwtww inon* m'Hh'lu! lor' olmn^o of ivny |mrtitM«l'tn'mi»(M'v HxnH'iM' nny poHJIivr plon ., or any ponitivi* ^^^n>^l, If wiMn-oiMlo ivhIIvKiihw wlinl. in i iit»v NltlV. ttl' PC Thovo \\m 1, «loli^v^\loil lo |n;o( nwny. vvvw for r. ^ooil rlinn,, of Minlun^ in Mu» rivor Ivofon* wo inmlil )imnr (ho \Wn{ lowtM- ivfh'h. l>un. wilh vtiHtMis plon,«in»l opiniuiiM M 1o wholhor wo wo«'on*fr " wotuolunv. I ^:\iop«. m Hifjhl ovit lortilotU" Tho hmi wm n oivpilal <»no. ImiI il in t'oHninwc woro »h»Mnin«oly lojnlod. iliin^:o»'ottsly lomlod. OHim* (I»o »Miitll vipplo of rho rivor lK>ppo«i tnorlho fiuunls. wnnliiufi llio hom'n' foot ns tUoy stood \\\ two n>\v«on v\w\\ «ivho«v tlu\v might p.»Ko llu»ii' tioncH !or rtnu»!«oinonf. poor tl'.ingfi A lorttloil ootton horti ot ni\ hunting! or a thotjwnnil hnl oro. F ilMV OHO otRiilloriHy;. tninoi'v, 1>oroho\l. on tho \\\o\\ This tlontinji- m «mi ilortth (thirty tnrkoys \vtM*o tlirown iwor tjoiuriho jlivl nijihtl wns onr "UolviiloVo ! I-Vom this foivthoroU viMngoivo ^vo^v to onjoy tht^ oonnhy, th(> viow. himI tho nirl (^1j\»1. howovor, n;* wo wor<» to ho olf, \vo wiM'o not nwniv, till !v>ni;- «t)or. of onr HJugnlnr gooil forl\n\(» in osonpin^ j for tho no\t wook, tho \\'\\\y\ shilling nnmd t>no(» mon* ((» \\w north.wov< \\\^M^ tht» riviM* n\u\ nil imtnn* tip as hanl a« ovor, p<> t)\rtt nothing tH>nhl vfot ny or vhnvn. WoU. wo niv nthv\t. \\ o hnvi^ h»nl onr toa (or Nnpp«»r). 1 hj\vo hoanl sovor«l s.ul Moiunin of I JO'ow n*^- o\{H' tho (h'Mtl and lot's, Uyintf tnrkoys. Of tho nitnMy or hnndml pasHoiij^oj . nwnvh onos. or h{»ohohn*-K>afor!«'. hngsnuM*, phuiiors, tnul oil »j«t)u>r nmt }«n\oko in tho foro-oahin tnor tlH> htMJorH : tlio t'fonily n\n\, an«l tlio nunv ^ontv^o] anil luoro aspiritiif. k(»opa1 tho lundor part of tho saloon anu>ng tlu> hnik^s. or ns wwl thorn as pvvnn\»l tho no!\rost stvn A vjay ^mrty k^C TonnosstH' outh sit routui tho Inoios' \t\h\c pl«ynt^ "yntah"(a sort ot inow \> orht rWrM ami pain-l(M| n\i\tim»^. A ir^Hvl-natniVtl, ginnl-hn»'irloans. Nvho is rotnniiiiu- v ith his oxoossivoly hard I toiit\uviu a ISjiral >ga, trip, a onrvons sight on thoso n»i>ihty stroiuns! hut our hoi gvnoous o»n^> \ snw nowhoro o^ualhul all I ho wny tlowtt lii|«l Now t>rlortns. I t\>rin>t to tnhl sonn> thivo or foiir hnmlrrd ntpty tlo\«r Uiumh^Is. or\ wl\ioh tho ntihuppy poultry w in*-'I1 M llllllp lljL diM'h lioli liver l»nr fti'ii'tilillo idoKo ruai lliil itisit (flimoo III iiii'i'cly l»i Hi'iiirlhin) I liavn ill iIiIh gr id' Im((» y wliicli sir W^' Iho ni mill liiMiHt lom'llior, inti. pour lllOIIMtll nil doulil; idriiM of I lliitik t(io i'iiiciiinal cvory yvi\ frovoruoil, I'liHlor tJiii I'Diiiiiig IK i''iiM:lmitl. iiiiiililiod, iMir ooiior dcHcoud t cniiHiiis, V. Hi'til us an niiiong (IS Kciilloinoii HHJoiiiHliin iiiriit li(«gi jiidicos. NJlipS io 1 l»"> I'd soni niirs, II las of Irailo I Mild nioro 'fight All iiiiid's Hoc over our ji uliuuld, del utmummfivvi utANow. 198 Art I I'MU mHlni iKtIhitiu ..(* M !l« UI'll UN IWO). I h<||(M'|, (-VJ'f MM Ih' mhimm plnypil (liy nny fiiiiMl»ff* . . ■ , ■ /''«'.r »"w HtMi Jiinn, nl, I'vni y j.xim ..Hiiii|i i.MnihM lin n.. on how I'^rrwivMly liUJn o.if m.n(|(.,i •l<'''l( M'liMV tin iN nlM.vn iJio uMh-n muioCodr r(uil lonHril nvcr l.nrMn« mi,,. „h.o|« j,, ||,„ |»„„| j, „„,|,i u, iU\ni'x,u'i snriililh. h(..nlv lMy nro •"iiimf^ i.cMivi' nnd iicniviMvluil, w,i ai'o in JiUlo ovfu'-p.'.opl,.,! In^Hun, . VV.|,|, oiir Ihoni^rlilN.nnd wny^ nnd cnHioniH HliJillv •i""ldifd. liH Hlill III,. Hdim'. Vov Ml, lir«|, lilly y,.„rH wo in "III" con,.,.!!,, nnd iiiH,.l,.n(',s nnd i^rnomncc, wcinfd nol, cof,. «l('H,',.nd lo pniiH,^ n,iiyll,in|<. ,)i' know nnylJiiiiK. nbont onr ! luiiHiiiH. V. Iio li,'k,.,| m tiilvv ,-i^lil, loi.K yimrn liKlilintr, and Hi'iil iiH an ainlinHMndor |,o |„.w and wa!l< aJioiil, al, .SI,. danM-s'H "inonM: i\^ Hilly and h.-IUhIi a h,.|, oI' (.nihroidcircd, mwvniiii K('iill,.in,.n aH may l.o loninl 1,li,.ro now. Tirno, and ilic nHloiiiH|,ii,y;,.|l,M.|.Hora iiKtivniliKliicncd. \vm Hlun-klcd ^nvvrn- iiKMil. I.,.gin lo l, vt'od oI'mII IIk* cMMinlry on llio Inick of (ho rivor, >vi(U (.\V(Mdy llm> Nlrcanm \vhioh pour in ow hojh pido«. l»OMido8 (ho giva( and li((l(« Minnn, joinin>f ilu^ OhioJ iwonly milos np.arl, ahovo and holow lln» (own. oHch NvnliM'ing Ptiporl) and «»\((M»sivo valloyH — ono wlroichin^; (o (ho <'apil»l, Oohnnbus. in (ho oon(ro of (ho B(a(o. Ihil lo n((onj])(, any f\ir(Uor no(ioo oi" wluil. I lonvo h«'hind nio woidd lill a volunio or (wo: alroady I lind inyHolC htnvild<>rod by IVohIi ohioclM atul now 8o((hM«\on(8. (*vory day planliny;, lniildin>4', and in- oivasinj? on (ho banks. Wo imss (hi* Mijnni a I'ow iuIIoh holow.i fornunjj: ho|V at i(,s niou(h (lu» dividinj; lituM mid (ho Hlaloofl Indiana is now on our riglil, wldlo !von(uolf (l»o rivor. This rapid is always (ho on" iiroat point of anxioly. and forms a kind oi' barrior, ' boyond whioli. \ipwards, tho hu^or olass of Mississip)>i sloamors Can- not oomo. oxoopt oooasio..ally, wlion tho rivor is vory high; so that thoro is always a jt>Toat i«;a(horinjjf of boats nt liOiiis- villo. at tho town wharvos, antlbolow' tho oanal at Hhippini,' Tort. >vh(MV tho tjroat ni.'iil Jind passonu^in' stoaniors lio. All tho sniallor sti^unors whioli ]ms8 (ho cNinal up and down aiv for carvro and na.ssonifors jointly; thoir cabins and tahlos on a loss soalo. and so nr<» thoir fan»s. I paid only liftoon dol- lars all tho w av to Nc^v C)rloans from Oinomnati, \vh("*idilo8onio, uud wo arc not at all suffi wo may not bo .stopped by it. 1 soo tho oxaot distance is 1(0 ^ilcs by tho river from Pitt^sburg to Cincinnati, and idi liiiles to its moutli, making in its whole lontrthOoA miles, without reekoninfj^ its branches above Pittsburg, lu ail tkia length it appears a greater ITKMN POnnoT 011" riNf'TNNATT. 127 river Ihnn lio Mi«»imi|Hii HmOCj il, k, hulnnil, oflon wiclnr. I I.; 4(r(M.f, jlilliMViHui liPH in lli(. gnifth-i' dopMi of iJi,. Inlirr, «lii''h d \H loHl, III ut Dm jnnciioM iil Onin). wln-ro IIk^ Mmw M|.|.i, ovon aflH' ivo.MviiiK ilm ()liif», l„ok« imicl, nnmmvr lllllll illO OIlH). I «lo tiol. ol'loji vciiiui'o on »l,nii«j,i(.«, m too dry ; Iml, | nm !.'nipi..( . w iilo yof, nniir ('incintuiii, l,o pul, (Idwn'n, (nw il,(Mn«. «iii<'h Bhould by riKld.H Iiavo hecn nicniJoiMul l.cf'dn' Imd I n";|'«' '•<"»»'' «'> ;;'.'t Hil(\ clninKed th(. tuinie. and (unhjd the petty rivulrie^ A i\wm early H(|uatterH ; for already l)U8ifn»H8 was inereaHiny lip lu.d ilown the river. The jjIikmi grew rapidly. 'J^k, flrHt I'liuivh AvaH iMiilt in '02; i.i Ut they puIdiHhed a daily paper; 111 IM. two "keel boalH" were built, with bullet-prord' govern ;iit' featurcH in theso new Hettlouient« lie population ui 171)5 wan but live liundrod, witli a Hrnall ili'liiclnneid, (rom the army. I^^ariy in ibis century their progress wns very rai.id ; thou- siiii(lKi)ouro(l nif'rom the eastern states, attracted by tlio rich- iK'Ns «ind cheapness of 'and. Tho trade with New Orleans ciirned ()n wdh keel-boats, wliic^h got down in a niontli and lip iigaui in about threes niordJis, was found very hicrative iiiiiking anu>ndH fur its risks and tcdiousnoss, iuiving often to islit tneu' way up ami down, sometimes against the Indians lHoy liad mado their enemies, or against their own robbers ;m pirates In 181<) it was (irst made a city, and contained 'io?o*'^?^' the progression, in 18:}(), 25,(XX); 184(), 40,(XX) • |iii 1H48, 1()(),(K)0, and at this moment IfiO.OOO. Jt l.n« ir ami jiiouses ranging in regular streets, at right angles, toward and to the lulls at tlio back two miles, and on its river's face three iiiiles. It haa soventy-fonr churches, three colleges, four mlicalandonolaw; one female college, several seminaries lorycv.ng ladies; four grammar-schools, and twelve popular rf''"ii|||| •^ 128 RECENT STATISTICS. tM ..' scliools of flvo tliousaivl pupils; six banks, eight large public halls, a court-liouse, town-hall and jail, three civil courts sit- ting the whole year, an exchange, a mayoralty and mayor's office ; several public libraries belonging to societies ; sixteen insurance offices, a post-office, three theatres (but only one open this winter), a museum, water-works, gas-works, two| hospitals, four orphan asylums, one lun. lie; a great many foundries, cotton and woollen factories, and many others; mills of all kinds ; and lastly, the great pork-killing and ; packing warehouses on the canal, which I have spoken of. I Upwards of two hundred steam-engines are in constant acti-j vity, " driving" the machinery of planing-mills, foundries, flour-mills, saw-mills, rolling-miUs, furniture factories, &c. They estimate invested capital in this every -day stir at I 25,000,000 of dollars. But the press is perhaps the most remarkable feature inj this activity — no less than thirteen daily and twenty -five j weekly newspapers ! four monthly periodicals. They count, i too, seven turnpikes, two great canals, a railroad to Sandusky! on the lakes, another to Columbus, and a general telegraph; two great c'emeteries, four miles off — that of Spring Grove i containing a hundred acres. Grapes succeed very \\ell all over this country, and a good deal of tolerable claret-like wine is made. I find these are but a few of the noticeable things, but I must stop ; besides, all this so changes and so increa^ses with every new y<^ar, that it would be absurd to dwell on it ; it may, however, interest a momentary curiosity. Not that I think "one need be so much in love with the dry or wet goods of this world; in extending streets, the multiplicity of | shops, or the endless struggles of trade and manufactures- all showing the increase of the human race, and the contriv- ances to feed and amuse them — if that were but the one end I and aim ! Already, in this fine valley, these charming hills and I streams, some of the beauty is gone for ever. The ^n ild and beautiful denizens of these woods and plains — the deer, tho Indian — the clearness of tho skies, the aroma of tho flowers j on these wild banks — all gone! M;m jostles man, ruts dis- figure the earth, and stenches fill intenninablo streets, wliero a dense j)opulati()n driiik whisky, food ])ig8, and higgle over European frip])iry. How niany batefui passions and thinfjs are here engendered, the coiuromitants of all populous cities; not to mention the extraordinary swarms of rats! The very I atmosphere at times is as dense in clouds of smoke as London itself; and this comes of meddling with the bowels of the harinlesH earth, as well as that " saltpetre" of our dear bai'd's] scented lord. •Some men are lost in tho greatness which looms afar in WANTON CBUELTT OF MAN. 129 Other centuries to come ; we may indeed take it any way mst as one IS m the humour. For my part, I do not see that the eartli bcmg more peopled is any great blessing to the human race. What is China better for her three hundred nullions, close packed, to the exclusion of all other animals P Iliev niust eat rats and dogs, even as dainties beyond the reach of the half-starved multitude. As to the astonishinL' power and glory of this race or that, and the superior en- liglitenment, science and arts, and superior mode of killino- each other in greater numbers, what a melancholy farce Ct IS it adds nothing to all the happiness we are susceptible ot— not a jot. Wo English are very proud of spreading the Anglo-baxon race, the most inquisitive, meddling, and destructive on earth. We alter or destroy everythmg not squaring with our very limited ideas ! We make kluing all the lower creation our amusement ! Soon, soon there will be no beautiful animals left ; in these woods and phins the bear, the deer, the buffalo, the beaver, most wantonly de- stroyed : as if God had not made these things— the lion, the ostrich, nor beasts nor birds can escape the destroyer man lo be sure there is some hope for the rattlesnakes of Wis- consin for rats, and for the lishes of the deep sea ; but, alas ! lor the beautiful beasts and birds, not the most entangled forests can conceal them, the most remote island, in its own savacre virtues, innocence, and happiness. A whaler comes, or°a meddhng Puritan preacher, or a protectorate ! and all the vice and misery of us Europeans, conspicuous in the Anglo- feaxoii race. I am going down the Ohio ; but a clever, gentlemanly fellow, a lieutenant-colonel, who writes a pleasing book, puts me in mind of this destroymg propensity. Ho takes a run down by the lakes and these rivers, chiefly to kill all the unfortunate birds, prairie cocks and hens vgrouse), he can bring his dog and double-barrels to bear on in pure wanton amusement. Strange, that men should thus cultivate a taste for cruelty, and run about the world destroy- ing everything, and boasting of their game-bags and battues. VVhat can be more detestable than tliese wanton slaughters wliether in our own fields or west of Chicago H Another set of rational persons gallop all day after a poor fox. Yes, and a Mr. tummm see nothing of the islands, caves salt-springs (" salines") iron mines, and coal, exquisite streams and val eys opening out on us every twenty or thirty miles on both sides. Then, again, those Indian mounds, which are so impenetrable to our puzzled archreologists and antiquaries speaking ot some departed race, it may be, old as the "Iliad " The largest of these barrows or mounds, like all of them overgrown by immense forest trees, is on " Big Grave Creek '' thirteen mdes below Wheeling, at Elizabeth Town; but m wo passect, and are now passing, so many objects of great interest, everything is so cold, so frozen up, that one is glad to sit crouclung over the stove, and give the whole river, banks, islands, and all, to the sharp winds. I have been lucky enough to get a cabin to myself, with nobody sleeping over or under me (all the cabins have double berths). In the mormngs there are the usual ablutions at tJie one comb and jack-towel (I never saw the " o^^ tooth- brush ) m the barber's shop, where, too, the bar deals out its fare-water, the bar-keeper adding a private spec of very insipid apples. Piccayunes rain on his counter for the fruit in Its innocent shane ; but he has a good store of it condensed in the Shane of apple-whisky, strictly guarded, at a whole -J "".V;,* ■^{'••"'^6«" "iipcrmruaoie iOvo 01 inOraiily —and dimes. 1 he barber, a young handsome mulatto n ..u, had inuaic in his soul, and when his chair was not filled by any of his numerous hel].less victims, would teach himself mufliu on that most cantaiikeroua of viols, the violin; but he DARK TYRANT STEWARDESS. 131 had heard of J tjanini, or "Old Dan Tucker, way down in ()J<1 Vir ••w.^^m^ *«» ^^ .».^ ..^ ^ 1 1 -7 -. vtivr in.-v iiiiu. iunn uxxu «JUJ U lUC JI3 « w pIUglTHoCU J UriU, out of the sun next day, the air so cold as to freeze on tho shady side of the boat. Kow began our wooding, every few hours, at the wood depots on tho wild forest banks, where tho wood-cutters have it corded ready, or placed corded in scows fust to tho banks, so that the steamer rounds-to beside them. i If 1 1 1 i P .1 1 ■ 134, INNUMERABLE EIVEBS. The bargain is made (from two to three dollars the cord), and the crew soon throw it on board, where it forms a great pile, with coal, and hay for the horses, in the bow of the boat, at the mouth of the fire-grates. Next day we pass many spots, all of more or less interest, impossible to notice— Salt River—Sinking Creek, where there is a cave, a wonderful cave, with basins of pure water on its floor, confined by natural sides of stone " as thin as the blade of a knife." Lady Washington rock, standing out boldly; Bonharbor coal-mines ; Green Eiver, in Kentucky, famous for its Mam- moth Cave. Ti-;s river is navigable to the cave, 105 miles. It is almost in >!•> cible that stupendous cave should be known to extend eight*. _ a miles, and is supposed but a small part of it, with more than 200 aveuues, forty-seven domes, eight cataracts, several rivers. The mouth of this wouderful cave is on a plain, entering its mouth by a romantic dell. The first vestibule is 200 feet long by 150 feet wide, and CO feet high, as smooth as a plastered wall ; but the wonders increase, and I must cqase. Gothic halls, cathedrals, star chambers ; the temple, with a roof 120 feet high, covering an area of two acres. Here, indeed, man may ruminate on his insignificance. All this, and eighteen miles more of it, far underground ! Some day we shall, nay, we should have, travels in the Great Mam- moth Cave, in three volumes. Half-way down the Ohio nearly, we come to the mouth of the Wabash (Indiana), which is navigable for river craft for four Jiundred miles, running through the centre of the State. A hundred miles up it is the notorious Harmony, bought in 1824 of the German Harmonites by our Robert Owen, of Lanark, to try his social system, which, as it deserved, soon broke up. Lower;!down, at " Cave in Rock," Mason and his gang of river pirates hung out, and plundered the loaded boats on the river. He was shot at lengtli, and his gang dispersed. TIii^ii we pass the Cumberland River on the left. Below this comes in tne Tennessee River, the largest tributary, a river of 1200 miles long, and navigable fbr boats for a thousand miles. At its mouth is the town of Paducali. Hero the Ohio is very wide and wild, the shores getting lower, with rarely any of those hills on its banks seen higher up, but everywhere dense forests, where not cleared in patches by farms, or in semi- circlen round towns and villages near the water. I forgot to mention Evansvillo, two hundred miles Below Louisvifle, in Indiana, a smart, fast-increasing town, quoted as [one of the most trading, enterprising places on the river. We put into the boat-olfiue for a moment, though the ice TUB MISSISSIPPI — CAIRO. 135 ; cord), and I great pile, ;lio boat, at )88 interest, !ek, where pure water as tliiu as Bonliarbor »r its Main- 165 miles. i be known nail part of )mes, eight derful cave deU. The and CO feet TS increase, iple, with a es. Here, . All this, Some day reat Mam- e mouth of jr craft for * the State, bought in Owen, of erved, soon lis gang of oats on the ied. Tlii'ii this comes ver of 1200 miles. At lio is very rely any of here dense )? in semi- liles below vu, quoted the river. gh the ice resisted us a good deal ; but our boat behaved nobly, and oared nothing for snags, nor ice, nor anything, and took us on at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour through all ob- structions. I felt sorry when at last we arrived beside one of the old steam-boat floating " hotels," at the muddy flat bank in the wild woods of the far-famed Cairo. If it is not Dickens's "Eden," it deserves to be— a desolate group of board houses at the junction of these mighty rivers. Here aU is level forest swamp. They have raised a kind of ditch, called a levee, to keep out the rivers from the little patch of land they have cleared behind these dreary-looking habita- tions. A few idle, sickly-look.ag men lounged on the guards of their floating stores and hotels' decks. (Old worn-out steamers are thus employed at various places up and down these rivers.) An English and American company have alternately tried to settle this pestiferous spot. Our company made it a monopoly in worthless land, over-built, and ruined them- selves. About a hundred people still vegetate here ; they cannot be said to live, for they look half-dead, and seem to long to escape. The miasma must be terrible indeed to deter desperate men from attempting to settle in so eligible a spot for o-and-a-half, no drift." " Two-and-a-iiuarterP" "No." Tho skipper, maybe, tliiuks ihe wood looks rather (iueor too rotten, or mixed with too much drift-lotrs, so on we uo! perhaps goes from Indiana bank over to Kentucky bank, o; Iroui Kansus to Tennessee, hails another : "What 8 your wood F" *'Sun%tii'"*^'^"^^^^^ hiekoryaud oak real, and no mistake." A young wood meter jumjis on sliore, measures off (for juey clon t trust to soi-t/isanf measurc'uuMits), and in half an liour we have the wood, about ci^dit or ten eords at a time, riV *^^'""'" '^ ^^ nlways jiaid. v,ii ?"n'1' ^^^«^^«"^^ I'l'i^'t' are i)lacarded on boards, irenc laJIv chalked up, at these s])ots. but not often to bo elearlv made out. 1 observed both i.arties are extremely la.-onie : no • uestions nsUed, no talk ; and here, cut oil' from the rest of UMvorld, from -very thini: supj.osed to interest human beings, tbej never ma . the smallest ,V(mest for news of any sort, oi^ even look at iis or our pretty girls, (who show th(>ir faces at their eabm wmdows,) with the leas over. luist curiosity or interest what- sf£'L'^^'^'''^T^*^T''''''''^',''"'^ 1^"^'« ^^"^« few eotton-loadod steamers, a shade slower tluui ourselves, ar.d some of the mad-steamers passed us; now and then a Yankee pedlar's floatnig store of notions, or, like Ihmvard's beginning loaded ' N^ '^^^' bees'.wax." They drift along with the eui' sh nVv .r ''i "^' ""Y ^"^ '1'^'^'' ^y* ^^'''^ i8Ao]mt their floating Hhdity on shore, where they can make bargains. All down ?n »» PJissengers. Among ethers, a party of young leilows well-dressed with small wagons and horses, carrying some thousands of fruit-tree slips for grafting peach, cherrv and apple orchards. They landed, I think, atkm phis, S thus traverse various states : grafting imurrd at a dime a tree, burely an admirable plan for all parties. IJut one Mord en passanf of the Upper Mississippi, which, tl^OW -''"•/">^" '"^"", .^^^^^« «^^*««^'* ^« ^^^0' where the Oho joins it, innumerable noble rivers pour into it, not vJlZT the grand Missouri. Its upper course above the ^V Vbl' tnl/mg over a limestone ridge seventeen feet, pvivll ""^ •p'"''^^'''^ I?'''' ^^ '^^^ ^«"'«' its features arc bMrof'lJir*^' mw*\ ^'^^^*'*V^ ^^^^^^d«' li'"^^^^^"^ rocky blulls of 400 or 600 feet perpendicular on the river in some OBANDEUll OP THE UPrEB MlSSlSSirn. hailed OS wo i,|iicoa, tlisiani and proximato •mountains, iioblo aihor ([vieor, * on wo go; ky bank, or 10 niislako." irea off (for I in lialf an is at a tinio, )ards, gone- bo clearly laconic ; no the rest of man beings, luiy 8or(, or Ar faces at erest what- tton -loaded »me of tlio ?o pedlar's ing, loaded til the eur- [)ir floating All down of young ^, carrying 'h, cherry, ni)his, and ime a tree. pi, w hieh, ro, where 3 to it, not ibovo the L5 it is 600 feet. itures arc •ne rocky r in some 337 •ivers and li;Mf .)pcnin.n: vnileys; its rai)icN at the junction oi Hock Diver and Uch Moines, nniHt make this Hcene, for variety and jraiideur, quite unique, even in this rnagnilicent western world. All tluH kind of benuty, however, ceases before it reaches iiiro. \\ see nothing but an island oil* the point, and must ii;i,i,nno {ho rent. Jn its onward course the gi'(!at Mississippi 1118 notlung but its deep, boiling wliirlj)ool, sullen, turbulent kindeur, as it rolls silent and diuigerous to the ocean. it IS low juHt now, and may be from half to a mile wide or morcy but when swollen in the spring, it rises, at a medium, teet, iloods tlu; gi ,t forest plains on both sides, and riiHlies on, m sonu^ places thirty miles wide, tlirough the |ffOf)ds, a waste of terrific muddy waters. Htill the channel luiti 1)0 tmced l)y fho eye to those navigating the stream, no •tlier than the wall of forest-trees whi(!h follow the course lot the river on cither liand. It is a curious fact that this prodigious rise is so lowered |«iid absorbed by its spread, and into innumoraldo channels, lat in the course of 1000 or 1200 miles, at JVatcdicz, it is hvored to thirty foot, and at Haton Ilouge, above K(;w Orleans, to ten or twelve;. I confess I was not sorry to go own it 111 its more quiet slate. AVe often see its sandbanks tore, aud can mark tlie new growth of young timber nursery- L'rouiida, where it has quitted one side for the other, and where it has made ils " euts-oli"" across its earlier windings. Ivc followed the main tream throULdi some of these now luts ; at others we Avero fenced to follow the bayou round, ten almost in a complete circle, for it is siug'ilarly tortuous |all the way down. Leaving the Ohio, the weather grows colder ; it rains first, llioii snows, and the woods are covered with a white mantle. we have not at all got rid of the winter, though some of w T' f *^*'^'*''^*^^^"ff' ^^'t'^t) sunny and pleasant. VVe hnd a great deal of loose ice coining down from the Oppor Mississippi ; it makes our situation more critical, and iiisom^of the wide reaches the waves make a complete breach ncr the boat's deck j but as we are something less oppressed Mtli load by the ordinary consumption each day, we can lord to dash through waves, snags, and ice. During the >y It 13 but pleasantly exciting, and relieves the monotony 't the scene, lor one can see nothing from the roof of our loat but the far-stretching turbid riverj and interminable uroats, and so on to eacdi town. We pass Now Madrid, in Missouri state, on the right, the wne of a very severe earthquake in iHll ; it raised some iL'iglibouring lakes and drained others, so that corn is grown ■"""" they once were, while the banks of the river were for 1 '•'*! 138 aJEMPHIS AND VICKSBUEG. 'Ml w ■i' hundreds of yards swallowed up in the stream. Tlie to\\ itself was sunk twenty feet ; but this is an old story, and mile or two, more or less, of mud bank is not missed. Memphis is very pleasantly situated on one of the Chieka saw bluffs, but they should be called gentle hills— they an nothing like the grand hmestone perpendicular bluffs above Government have established a navy-yard here, and there i an active commerce up and down the river, being the onl point fit for it on either side for 600 miles, down to Vicks burg. It is backed by a great cotton-growing country 120,000 bales are said to be annually sent on board here Population about 12,000. The mouths of large riveri coming in riglit or left are barely perceptible. The Arkau sas Eiver, in its state, now on our riglit, is one of these inferior only to the Missouri; its course said to be miles. I will mention a few other names as singular. We pasi the Yazoo, which is joined by the Yellabusha and Tallehat chee, 160 miles above its mouth ; all these rivers, great am small, send dozens of cotton-loaded steamers down the grea stream. Keeping on the even tenor of our way, we arrivec at Vicksburg, famous for its gamblers and Lynch law ; bui all this is changed. It is now a verjr quiet, respectable plac of many factories, and much trade in cotton and dry goc and on the most beautiful spot I have yet seen, called a bl rising grounds, and pretty hills. We stopped here an hour or two for goods and passengers A Vicksburg loafer, v/ith his great beard, came, towel inhanc (he was dressing), out of his room at the eld steam-boa (hotel) as we sidled up to it, and I, jumping on the hote deck, ran up the bank to get a paper at the Press office, bii I was told none were out yet, as tne President's speech ha( taken extra hours to strike off. By this time our milk was exhausted, and we were in hopes of a fresh supply at breakfast ; but the steward contrived no to get any— a small saving. Altogether, however, our tabl( was not bad, considering the lownei " our fare (in dollars) Here we took on board a family 5.- g to Texas with theii slaves. Poor things ; the females excessively ugly, dirty, an( ill-dressed. The master and mistress poorer than their slaves but not in rags. Some looked serious, but not so deeply 8( as their master and mistress ; some smiling and lively, m a party of lads who came on board somewhere lower dowi were as gay and nearly as well dressed as our gentlemen, sons ; they had been hired somewhere, and had all the live liness and easy assurance of boys leaving school. One caj never judge, liowe^^er, by appeara,nces, either of happiness 01 misery ; and I always suspect conversations got up by travel NOTIONS OP FEEEDOM AND SLAVERY. 139 jrs by a set of pointed questions to any slave met in a itpamer or hotel, or on liis own master's estate ! — " Would U like your freedom P" Of course— the bare word (as chat if slavery is odious) is dear to us all, and yet how often does itmean nothing — sometimes, I am convinced, hunger, wretch- daess, and despair. They may be free, when old, to starve ; md as to a life of dailv hard work on one farm, or in one rillage, what slave ever drudged in serious monotonous cheer- ssuess, from youth to old age, more hopelessly than our ivii farming labourers P The whole world is for ever dis- Uiug about words— shifting from facts to abstract ide^is, ||ackwards and forwards, to suit the momentary purpose. Here is the Enghshman's American lady thinks her slaves le happiest creatures on earth (and it is true oi house slaves), k is verv indignant at the idea of kissing the Queen's hand ! Ld yet she would go to court— she would, if she ever went Ito London. "My dear, you'd have to," says the attentive husband, ''when presented." At which she looks awful daggers, with, " Well, I guess slie'd never catch me a kissing her hand ; no, I'd not demean Imyself so low — let her slaves do it." I thmk there was nothing passed on board all the way down very amusing. I was in hopes to have seen more priginals, and expected to see some turn-ups among a set of card-players among the loafers and sharpers, who were occa- sionally joined by a judge, a lawyer, and a planter, whoso families were on board. They sometimes played all-fours, sometimes the constant game of yutah ; often sitting up till inidni<,'ht playing for dollar stakes ; but, except a little awful sn-earmg at each other between two (ironies, nothing occurred -no " difficulty," as fights are called, nor any fun. There us no piano, so reading and cards prevailed among the ladies. There was, to bo ^re, one sudden Mississippi flirta- tion, however. A fine girl, a tall governess going to A'atchez, took a violent fancy to a young fellow with lank, long hair, demure, and soft spoken. For a whole week he never ven- tured near the fair, and sat far down the table among the liopeless bachelor's, when all at once, by love's enchantment, we saw him seated at the head of the table next his inamo- rata ! He was studious, and had lent her a book at some propitious moment. And now they were never a moment asunder ; far in the night, by moonlight, as we ran into more pleasant weather south, they walked alone along the outer balconies, (which are carried round these boats,) in the most loving propinquity. The women whispered— the men winked -it was a match. No, she left; us, and the gentleman did not follow. But these sort of flirtation3 are sudden, and very 140 THE POOB ANIMALS EEVIVE. ,- 4 % f-.* H' violent in the States ; they may end in a day ; nobody any thmi' of it ^ ' J l^h thii Tf^i SV' ^?^^^^yf a^tl poultry 1-gan to enjoy the sun iittle;. altogether about eighty died on the passage the iin tew days, from the wet and cold ; their later sufferings eair trom the sun and thirst. I now and then helped the h men, their owners, to give them water, but there was i trongh anywhere, and some of tlie poor things never got an +1 -^i^^i/^^^^f^S' too, got more used to the lire of the'engin: tlie bells, the whistles, and i\\Q screeching brutality of the keepers. They plunged less, and subniiti 1 to their fat tied up m the cold wind; for the deck is open all round - the sides. Grand G^^f is remarkable as being an ugly cui tomer in snags, and whirlpools, and eddies. But I do not mention all the towns, rivers, bluffs, an wooding stations along the river— alternately in Arkausa lennessee, Mississippi, and Louisiana ; it would be an u meaning list of names— some of them curious and India but the L, eater part incongruous or absurd.' Palmyra« Carthages,^ and Ei-ownsvilles, Simpsonvilles. JN'ever surel was this iFrench word mile so hackneyed and vulgarised—a over America; so that "cut-offs," and Bayou Atacafalaya Big iJlack Creek, Horse-shoe Bend, Devil's Bake-ovn L are quite a relief. ' ' As the sun was getting warm, and ice had nearly disap peared on our approach to New Orleans, T began to look ou lor alligators, and at Bayou Sara (Seree) we saw a small m sunning himself near some large trunks o: trees clcse to tli. town and where we put in with the boat. It was but ai mtant, and slipped quietly into the river out of harm's way very hkeiy its mother didn't know it was out !" the skiDpc suggested. ^^ We pass JS'atchez, buUt on nice hills or bluffs, for even little fcleyation of the shore on either side is welcome in thii thousand-mile dead forest level Most of these towns aii( settlements were originally French : and there is a story her( ot horrid treacher- and barbarity to the poor Indians in th( eighteenth cen ry. But, indeed, what is the whole 'listorv ct us Uiristians, Spaniards, French, and Enghsh amoM these children of the New World, but a succession of robbery, treachery, and butchery ! The catalogue is too black to venture on, filling one with disgust and anger, all in the name of God and Heaven ! ■ — r ~ -""'■ ••^^■^■■mvi j^vii^^ up tiii- jcvca iiiver, wiiere we take an immense circle, not venturing tlirc igh the " cut-off." An old steamer at the bank did duty as -o sort of store and deijot at Its mouth; br^low this he sugar-cane thrives best I his IS an immense nver, rising in New Mexico, 1500, ofl THE BED EIVEE — BATON-BOUGE. 141 nobody thinlj^ ^^}?^ ^^' running through dense tangled forests and Iderneases ; it is navigable for 700 miles, to where it _ UDder natural rafts of fallen trees, so deep and compact lat it is crossed as on a bridge, on horseback, for miles, the ivergrown mould, mosa and shrubs concealing the river iiieath ; this is above Nachitoches. Of late years the ex- ;llence and fertility of hills and valleys on this wonderful irer begins to attract settlers, and several large towns have prung up, far more remote and "out of the world" than lere in savage Mississippi itself It is not the novelty alone -all nature here astonishes in the ;;igantic span of her silent lirorkings. We rush through the Eacourci, twice "cutoff," and in lalf a mile save a tw^enty mile bend (bayou) ; 'lut bayou iieans any winding side river, or inlet, a.s w?ll as these multi- ilied serpentine vagaries of this father of fresh waters. We Mu cm m^'^p ^^^^ *^® Mississippi state, &t Bay Sara, and are now IS and IndiaiB'^^l'^^^f in Louisiana, and soon pass Ba. Kouge, the capital. d. ' Palmyra J^ ^^ "^^^^ ^^ *^® 1^^* rising ground to ^e called a hill, even Never sureWy courtesy. The town is small, and looks pretty from vulgarised—a '^® ^'^^^^'- ^^^® *^6 U. S., or Uncle Sam, has an arsenal, brracks— a fine building— and 400 soldiers, a hospital, a njoy the sun )a8sage the fin sufferings cai. Iielped the tw t there was ; never got an of the engin iitality of the I to their fat n all round Qg an ugly cu TS, bluffs, an Y in Arkausf >uld be an u u Atacafalay Jake-ov:n, &c d nearly disap ^an to look on aw a small on es clc'se to tli It \^'as but ai f harm's way !" the skippc: uffs, for ever] elcome in pse towns aii( is a story her( [ndians in thf whole .historj nglish amonq on of robberj too black to II in the name er, where we ;he *' cut-off." of store and ? thrives best xico, 1500, 01 kd-oifice, a state house, penitentiary, gaol, a college, Wd all tlie etceteras of the capitals of each State, but it is known only to a few officials ; all the w^orld live at JN"ew Orleans. I might have marked the phases of this unique river more rividly. At one place where wo put in for wood in 'Kansas, at New Carthage, the proprietor lived on the spot in the roods, in not a bad frame-house. This was a stern original, he beau ideal of the " true yr«Y," half horse, half alligator, as e sat and whittled on the top of his piles of wood. His slaves were employed about ; and one old woman was driving a span of oxen in a cart loaded with wood. About fifty yards i'om this barn I adiaired a slip of his territory ; undermined ty the river, eight or ten acres had sunk thirty or forty feet ; noble pines, oaks, hemlocks, at the bottom of this muddy erater, still kept possession of the soil, but all thrown into various angles, and some prostrate, while yawning mud- cliasms, through which the river was stealing, wound about their lower uptorn roots. This scene of utter desolation and engulfed wilderness he called Old Carthage ! Shade of Scipio ! liero was a modern Marius sitting on his logs, but only rumi- nating tobacco and pouching his dollars. Nothing pays so ' vii u,c uv^viiiiij^ ny auu uuwu tuis i-ivur. wur uoai expeuaa a thousand dollars each trip for wood alore. This severe 'Kansas colt was no doubt happy, the jingle of dollars sweet music. He defied fever and mosquitoes; and as for the sinking of Old Carthago at his doox, or had it sunk house i ■til'/- '!li!ll!!PI'l|| *'•'"> ""-y J"™ back mot ana Orrnk, sometimes racing all tho way. ii ilii.,. 146 A GOLDEN OEIGINAL. ,y 4'..' Wallcmg out Canal-street, the widest, if not the best, in Kew Orleans (the canal filled up and planted Avith trees), just at the snljurbs, a short mile from the river, the lazy ruiiian cotton.drnymen arc alloMod to leave the dead carcases of their poor horses and mules mIicu worn out or villed. A horse and inulc I saw by the road side infcctinj^ all the air ; and so on in all the swamp Palmetto ends of the suburbs. This, too, in a to\\ n where the most exact care should be iaken to prevent infections, Avhere, from the inevitable sumr.ier miasma, the yellow fever too often decimates the inhabitimts ; but nobody cares. What with returned or going Californians, rich planters once in ten or twenty years timiing up from their far-off estates on the Hod Eiver, or the centres of these wild states, or suddenly-enriched artisans and tradesmen, &c., New Orleans is fidl of curious originals — some violent, some funny and harmless enough. About this hotel, where Common and Charles-street corner is crowded daj and night, one of these odd creatures displays himself, lie has made dollars, and now idles about from dram-shop to dram-shop (exchanges) in utter vacancy, dressed in superfnu" blue broadcloth, richly em- broidered in oak-leaves (like a prime minister's), his buttons gold eagles and half-eagles, with an iuiuiense gold eagle and cockade in a broad-brimmed beaver wliite hat, his fingers in rings of ^n-ice, and round his neck half a dozen massive gold chains ; but all this is not rich enough— he stands in silver shoes ! All the m orld know this crazy creature, and he chats, and drinks, and treats, and is treated, for ever. He is very political, and beats six acres of rattlesnakes and copper-heads m biting republicanism. The fierce cold returns, the snow lies six inches on the ground, the orange-trees are killed, iron pipes split, and the whole town pelting each other with rare snow -balls j but such a winter is not in the oldest memory. CHAPTE.ll IX. KEW OULKANS— ^lOBILK— PENSACOLA AND THE FLORIDAS. COTTON BARdUE TO CAPE cto ALONG THE GULF STKEAM. 1 AM hun'ied on to Mobile, and must steal a ^ ord or two mnrn nf 1V/m»7 Oi»lnn»iQ l»/»ft-kwr» T l>-.r.,r^ it- .,^*- a« ,i :i^_ i...i. -- - .•-rriT r-vi\_it .r. ixrarv ll, HXJl, LU UloUiiUU, JJUu correct my own ignorance of simple facts. Thus, I find there is a railroad to Carrol town, seven miles ofj; higher up the river— a favourite retreat for the richer merchants ; and that " Algiers," on the opposite side of the river, is considered the workshop of the city, particularly for carpenters, blacksmiths, aslrous THE FIELD Of EATTtE. lie best, in . trees), just lazy ruliian uses of their 1 horse and ; and so on rhis, too, in 1 to prevent niasma, tlic but nobody c'h planters their far-off wild states, ^ew Orleans funny and )nimon and )no of these iollars, and [changes) in I, richly em- his buttons 1 eagle and 8 lingers in assive gold :1s in silver id he chats, He is very 3pper-head8 ;hes on the lit, and the s ; but such lat FLORIDAS. PBEAM. \ ord or two :i i...i. I find there her up the B ; ana that isidered the dacksmiths, no ivcX^ ' ^f.^r?f. nianufactories, with steam Ts [taf thm//'I'^^^ «l»p-building yards, and a large sailors' S sont n?^f '^ f ^''^^^^^ ""'"'^y ' ^"^^ «« "^«y ^c this great he rivTr's hr ''r '^"^'- T''^ ^t''^^ ^^'^ were inundated by triflinc^ ditch ifkol^ '?• ^^'"^f ^^^"^, '"7 ^ «^^«^t ^"t) ^^^r tl^« stream "" *^^ *"^'^'''* ^^^^^ ^^ ^^"« turbulent orft''L;i''l^n'^^ ''"''"•/f^ possibilities or probabilities ; it will f I o rl^7 ^ '''' '•' '* ^'^« ^«^' hundreds of years, so slow are nd inch r- fin ? '^' V^^^^« "} l^'-^rd dollars for so many feet rent sl^^^^^ '^ '' ^^ ^«^^^««' indeed, house- Hfo But H.n A ' * •' '' "'^'"y necessary and every luxury of !tth^ti.^e^Xrn:;X^^^^^ '^^ very expensively, 1 did not go to what is called the " battle irround " siv milos ^M^^'ij'fr *^^^.'"^'^^ '' -^' bXToVwe"; so T o A m ;• '^^^^^'^^^^T'f "■''^^ "^^^r ^« ^^i% called a battle. (! dl Sr^^ '''^'' If ^"^^ *^^^'^ trenches and cotton bales e r S at IZTr'T.'^ impenetrable and safe), with men lilies at a rest, fired at our reg nients as ^hev miLdit Xd Td' vol77^?r^;l:"'^'f\^^^ ^-^^ twotluS mot ehanef o^^^^^^ ^T ^'^^f ¥^«^^^ «^^^''^t with infinitely more Uiance of life have been led against the curtain of a itade unbreached, across a wet ditch. From lehind lis long line of cotton bales three or four thousand unerrhi^^ f rceTtabt7 W "r^ V^>'" ^^^"^"^^ ^^"'^^ ^l reduces nset seZ f; .w 1i ^^'^f *^ '^^^^^ ^''^^^ prompted such an i^-itt- 1 W^^^^^ • *r'' i^^ imaccountable ; for our mistake altLi the iirst affair, a week prcv ous, when our advancim? tS in'tb"/'^"?, ^^"^ ^^rV'^ ^y '^' armecl Xoner ta^ loned m the river three miles below this fatal spot : and from whence the Americans retreated back to these? IneslS ^tTnT r^' ''". ^'"^^', ^"^^"^^' ^' '^'^ «ther, tilltlufcbs" T n "I? '"T»%'' tJ^« «ll» "f January, 1814. - Slow Iv u steadily the columns advanced toward the American Ine^ kd ^In nT ^'^'''^''''- "" ^?'^ «^^^^"^ ""til the JJritisrarmy Jiad reached a convenient distance. wIum. « ^.,.,ii„ v.JJI ir^nJ^ . lirr t^V^-^rican account of it,nn;i irseelns laii enough; all these flats are more or less dry and firm "ni Mas secured by the snamp being impracticable : itcou I l>e turned, mid the river dei'.MuhHr tlidr right Why wo cliuse our approach by Lake Borgnc below, instead of LIS "In m. :B I .+ ■ ■i " 148 THE ElVEB— AND COTTON TEADE. i'. PontcTiartram behind, and so much nearer the city, across a firmer part of these flats and swamps, is not said. But time and obfiviou throws its mantle over victories and defeats ahke ; fifty years levels everything. What have all our victories m the Peninsula, crowned by Waterloo, done for us P This Crescent City is a hundred miles above the lour branches of the mouth of the Mississippi, which, loaded with mud and wood, the wrecks of thousands of miles of Crests, carries its own peculiar delta out with it mto the ^^ult ot Mexico, where all in its vicinity is shallow, flat, and muddy. They have always numerous tug steamers far at sea m the gull:, in these shallow, discoloured waters, constantly on the look out, with their pilots, to tow the shipping up the river —a most lucrative business. Indeed, all the accessories ot trade soon grow more valuable to the bodies of men engaged in it than the trade itself, without its risks and anxieties. Thus, in the cotton marts up the Mississippi and at Mobile, Bwarms of cotton brokers usurp the ^uarket ; the planters are mere babes in their hands; they rule them and the market ; the cotton i^ forestalled or mortgaged often before it is picked, and wasted and eaten into in many ways before it is finally shipped for Liverpool or Europe. At Mobile and JN ew Orleans it is unmercifuUy slashed and robbed to get deep into the bale +br the sample. Then come the host of small pilferers to pick up on the wharves and about the cotton-presses the millions of handsful blown about and trodden under foot every where ; plucking slily at the wounded ragged bales to help. A law has at last put a stop to this kind of gleaning; but still the poor planter finds a fearful falling ofi^ of the weight as it left his press. And thus the wood-sellers up and down these immense rivers make more money than the owners ot the steamers they sell it to. This kind of ramification is one of the mysteries ot all trade ; one may pursue it into a huckster's shop, or the luxurious villa of the exchange, the cotton or the stock broker : it is the Spanish moss which drapes the live oak, the pine, and the magnolia. Now and then a man starts up and eloquently points out certain evils to the comTuumty ;— j'^^t now it is Mr. James Hobb, a rich merchant, who at Baton llouge does not spare his Crescent City townsmen— pointing out all the nuisances, ennnnalios. USPS uTul abuscs of the city. I have said there is no walk so pleasant as the planked levee— but there are six public squares and many fine streets notwithstanding ; and no doubt many of tJ»e private gardens and grounds of the suburbs and finer houses, with their orange and palmetto shades, are very pleasing in the spring and early summer months. In aom sees he and lof and ric quartei haunts. But, the riv( depth, : a mile i overrui: these ic half-sta Attl] towards perhaps ground, ditches. The . Indies i siderabl sive ink But i tempted cli])pors and all 1 gulfs W€ Cliagres and disl Auglo-jV boy driv ocean— i had, for and I ha house, w young h pJayfiill}) serious d of Massi ])octcd tl on givin pause, fi an in cess But ni wind, to the Iowa :i cab, or y, across a But time feats alike ; victories in e the four oaded with of forests, the Gulf of id muddy, i sea in the itly on the Lp the river jessories of en engaged I anxieties. L at Mobile, jlanters are he market ; it is picked, it is finally [ew Orleans ato the bale jrers to pick :he millioua verywhere ; 3. 3aning; but ' the weight ip and down le owners of teries of all lop, or the Lock broker : k, the pine, y points out Sir. James L's not spare e nuisances, said there is there are six ling ; and no •■ the suburbs ictto shades, mer months. SNOW-BALLING BALL. 149 In some of the streets of the old town near the cathedral one sees here and there houses of the Spanish and French, soHd and lofty, with marble portals, iron balconies, deep cornices, and ricii carvmgs ; but they must be looked for ; lying in a quarter remote from the bustle and crowds of the modern haunts. But, mdeed, the greatest stir of all kmds is on the lev^e at the river side ; compared with its river face, the city has no depth, none of the streets inwards being much more than half a mile in length, before one comes to the open flat country, overrun by the low, fan-like palmetto, which springs up m these idly-cultivated flats, is browsed on and disfigured by the half -starved stray cattle. At the back of the city in this direction, to the north-east, towards Lake Pontchartrain, the plain extends on all hands perhaps three miles, framed in by the forests in the back- ground, much as it is above and below, intersected by frequent ClltCllGS. The coasting trade with Mobile, the Floridas, and West Indies by their schooners and sloops is very active and con- siderable, coming in by the canal from Lake Borgne (an exten- sive inlet east of Lake Pontchartrain). But it is time to start for Mobile, though I was almost tempted to go to the Havana by one of the steamers or screw clippers, whi(^h go down the river in quick succession to Cuba, and all the West India islands, taking the round, too, of the gulfs westwn-d, many of them to the Texas, Vera Cruz, and Chagres ; but at this moment there is a feeling of suspicion and disHke at Havana against the Americans, or anything Anglo-American, so I called in the assistance of a broth of a boy driving a cab— not long sure from the first gem of the ocean— to convey me to the railway depot. The whole country liad, for nearly a week, been covered six inches deep in snow, and I had assisted at a dance at a first-rate wholesale botirding- house, where, in the drawing-room, the gents smoked, and the young ladies between the dances running out on the balcony playfully pelted their partners with snow-balls, in spite of the serious displeasure of their orchestra, complete in the person of Massa Quambo, a sable fiddler in high fashion, who ex- pected three dollars for his job: a conscientious man, bent on giving good measure, but much vexed at the snow-ball pause, fiddlino" out r>f fimn — in r\n. funo in ■nar.i-ir.^^l^^ ™:j.k an incessant earnest gravity not to be trifled with. But now it rained, and as suddenly changed, with the wind, to intense freezing again. I think I have reason to say the town is execrably paved ; never have I been so jolted in :i cab, or nt so dear a rate. My Paddy— good luck 'to him, *' ■ 111 Niiiiif irn ill '^""■it; :», 150 MISERIES OF THE RAIL AND LAKE. m' < If' ■ ( !■ , • . V,C^ h'i -.-^f sure he wouldn't be piekin.fi: up fares too faflt— insisted on a dollar ; distance about a mile, on tlic French side of the city, towards the canal basins. It was late in the afternoon, and this train was meant to meet the Mobih^ mail steamer at Lakeport, at its terminus on Lake Pontehartrain. Away we went across the flats, six miles ; the last half of it throujyfh the primitive swamp, half under water, and the wild woods, which encircle all these lakes and bayous. Lakeport, \a here we arrived at sunset, is a small liamlet of frame houses, built on piles, on and near a lon<,' wooden jetty, carried out into the Lake Pontehartrain, on which the rail runs to its terminus wharf, where the steamers generally lay alongside ; but the waters are very low just now, and by the time we got out of the ears it blew a violent freezing gale of wind from the north, and we could see the steamer at anchor, as near as she could safely lay to the shallow shore, but hope- lessly out of reach, and no boats or any sort of conveyance to put tlie ])assengers on board, if the fierce waves, lashed against the jetty, Moidd have allowed it — doubtful! Mean- time we are^'all Iiuddled out of the cutting wind in tlie barn- like depot, or store, among the casks, bales, and boxes, and left to commune with each other ; not a creature to say— what next ? The cars having returned to New Orleans, con- ductor and all, not in the slightest degree moved or concerned at our pleasant predicament. We wore an odd, motley group, to be sure, mu( ' resembling shipwrecked mariners on a frozen inhospitable coast, and about as comfortable. Our being only six or seven milea from New Orleans itself did not at all mend the matter! There was, indeed, nothing pathetic, but an immense deal of swearing (at all captains, boats, and rails), and suffering from the intense cold ; the margin of the lake, though salt water, frozen in ridges as it lashed the shore, and all of us exposed to tlie full fury of the gale, being on the lee shore. But I have talked so much of cold and freezing lately, that I will now only add, that after -w aiting in vain for hours, some taking shelter in grog, oyster cabins, and empty batli houses (for in the summer heats this is one of the watering-places), half this living cargo were fain to make up their minds to remain all niglit, while others returned to New Orleans by the next train, more dead than alive. a hotel ; a large, handsome house, luckily not shut up, but left in charge of two or three Swiss lads to rough it for the winter, and make what they coidd at the bar. At a full run wc all rushed in, too happy to find anything in the shape nsisted on a of the city, as meant to orminus on flats, six jwamp, half le all these 11 liamlet of ooden jetty, ich the rail enerally lay and by tlie zinj^ gale of r at anchor, e, but hope- conveyance aves, lashed id ! Mean- in the barn- boxes, and re to say — Orleans, con- r concerned resembHn^ coast, and seven milea the matter! icnso deal of iTering from 1 salt water, is exposed to But I have b I will now some talcing ouses (for in 38), half this o remain all by the next alf a mile to shut up, but gli it for the A^t a full run in the shape VAElOtrS DEOBEES OF FItEEZING. 151 of shelter ; the night pitch dark, and notliing hoard but tho liowling of the wmds and lashing of tlie waves? toweet are tlie uses of adversity," and a hot stovf- bnf T could be eloquent on the intense ijfferings of t^etched mght and the next : to be frozen to death on the ] orGulf of 1 orida M-as really too much of a good thing • a,nid8tth« odoriferous pmes and magnolias, and iSkt e slds where nobody can .omplain of anything but in olerable S MdthoZS^''?- ^'^ 'T i^^*^^' >^^i^l^ J^ad hardly a wLdow without a ])roken nane of glass, however pleasant in the heZ (for a nice veranU ran round it, and it stood in ts S nalms ifvJnT ^^'^ ^'''\ '"^^'^ '' ^'' ^''^^^'' and sh Id W ?s this T^ ^'-^'f P^^^«>:y«^^«t at allnieant for such weather as this. Ihe wind swept through it in every direction In vain the Venetian blinds were closed ; even the bar room was at zero, except in a close ring round the stove ;Ld I must needs attempt to go to bed atlhe end of a long ^;]lMItTr idor np-stairs All my Ohio pains from Lezin.r CJo nothing to that night; not but tliat the exquisite suffeHnL stretched on that damp mattress, with an old c^l ^ cmilt were in some sort relieved by mv fears every no -^ and then' m the hercer gusts of the gale, o/the house being blown at y ± ^^nr"^"^' altogether. Oh, how I welcoined the fi s^ rays of the rismg sun next morning ! How delightful to sit at breakfest (for they made us a ihZ, and did w^ndeTS In he ^^ay of feedmg iis, considering this was a tem,3orary S beS -to sit at breakfast, 1 say, quite alive and merry, thouS Mater did ireezo in the tumblers as vvo sat! Americans are no content with coffee, which is always excesstvdywat^^^^^^^ And now we learned, tliat after we had escaped from the Mty, the steamer started for Mobile with the mail (somdiow got on board), leaving a batch of her yellow slave-boy waiterl on shore, who were warm ng themselves, and not looking out iheir coinments on the skipper's cool conduct were as sharp ZJ^A T^^" '' ^V ^^^^ *i ^""""--" ^«'^ ^^tter mind, or they d sJiip on boaird some other boat." Another steamer was novv at anchor, and though the gale and cold were very Urtle abated, yet we were in hopes of getting off, by means of an old schooner, which could come up to the jetty and take us off riiis same schooner should have been at her post last night ' but with flirt iieiinl pn7./i]/^o„,.„„„ ,-„J -11 ^ «o"i^UL, — ««ivivo3iiCBa, vna iuieness, and unac- Wn ' <^f<^^«ryl^ody in everything, she was nowhere to Even now, with a second day's accumulation of traveUers we were kept shivering for hours while they took on board i Ml liilljil iifi!!lf Hl.»l!,ltlill ' l?l|l 162 VILLAGE OP SHIPS — MOBILE. 1.*' ."t w • ,,•,- .■y cotton and cargo — as that, payin<^ boat of tlio two, went first. It wavS not easy to get on board from tho jetty, over a plank, from the rou^lmesa of tlie waves. I pitied some of the poor ladies ns they sat huddled to;j:eiher on the dirty deck, amidst liOjii;sheads, boxes, bales, and freezing vater wetting their feet ; for the careless animals had contrived to throw over an immense chest, filled with all the worldly goods of some poor i >migrating family. Getting it out of the lake, it broke open, and discharged its contents, water and all, about the deck. One poor sick man, in charge of his wife or sister, was carried on board in a dying state ; the cold alone was enough to kill him. At length, towards evening, the steamer, a fine boat (much on tlic same plan as those at New York and Philadel- phia), weighed anchor, and breasted the gale. This passage is made through the channel between Lakes Pontchartrain and Borgne, and along a chain of islands off the shores of the states of Mississippi and Alabama ; the largest of these, Dauphin Island, is of great length, its eastern end forming ])art of Mobile Bay ; where we arrived next morn- ing, among the merchant fleet of cotton ships at anchor within the bar at Boint Mobile. Thia is a curious sight ; it is quite a town of ships ; a little floating community ; thirty miles from Mobile, and four or five miles from the nearest shores and pine forests. Here they remain for months waiting for their cargoes, which are brought do^^ n to them in steamers. They visit each other, and try to nmke the best of their tedious de- tention ; some of the captains living at Mobile, or coming backwards and forwards occasionally. We soon ran up the bay to the city on the western side, inside long, low, narrow islands of rushes and trunks of trees, which obstruct and mask the whole water-side face of Mobile, and make fast to the fine plank steam-boat wharf, be- side other steamers, ships, barques, schooners, and all sorts of vessels of light draught — that is, ten feet ; for Mobile Bay, all its upper part, is shallow for twenty miles, and its naviga- tion dillicult; the channels narrow, and the rise of tides along the Gulf of Mexico making little difi'erence ebb or flow. In our nm from the lake of pleasant memory, the paddle- wheels had cased the sides in ice, and great pendent icicles ornamented our paddle-boxes. As to our interior comforts I cannot speak in raptures ; there was the usual impenetrable circle of rumiuators round the lower cabin stove, with all their abominations, as I lay freezing in a kind of open berth (running round in double tiers, with curtains under the windows), although within three yards of the said animated fire-screen, which sat up the whole night, and could not be dispersed to clear away for breakfast by the unceremonious darkief a hand instant turbabj me; I ! This w; Amo tragedi one Fr< origina' acting i in one ( tain, a 1 civil to actress but I k( and frie At M carriage for pasi shambli soon hoi town ; ( splendid one of tl thing th of cours( Here, as great ro ^vhere a grinding In thi tlio nortl sissippi {] same low sand — so letters : t are a fe^ sionally ■ staple CO this sand wliitenesi These • —the ma the live o as in the of fabled Itiful. Bi , went first. or a plank, of the poor cck, amidst Hting tlieir o\v over an f some poor broke open, t the deck, was carried )iijgrh to kill a lino boat id Philadel- ween Lakes andsoft'the the largest eastern end next morn- elior within it is quite a miles from shores and Qg for their lera. They tedious de- er coming estern side, iks of trees, de face of t wharf, be- [ all sorts of J^obile Bay, . its naviga- se of tides ice ebb or the paddle- dent icicles • comforts I apenetrable e, with all open berth under the d animated 3uld not be eremonious MOBILE— ITS SANDS AND SWAMP. 153 darkies, until one of them, with a chuckle and a wink, threw a handful of Cayenne pepper in the fire. The fumes had an ins ant eff-ect setting us afl coughing, and sending our imper^ turbab e squatters flying in all directions ; this trick astonished on^eirench), and a most extmordinary old man~a far we^^^ aT[fri~'^r^Ti-' «*-*« of tipsinessf who I had observed h on? *>,^ f ^^■P^,'^^^^-^' and chattering the queerest nonsense, m one of the wooden oyster-houses the day tefore. Our can- to, a burly surly bear, did not think it at all essential toTe Zll T^^'^y' M«.^Pt ?^« ladies-partieularly the lady- actress who sat next him; he gave me 1 taste of lis quality, anl fS.'' ^'"'^ tac^iturnity as " my guide, philosopl J,' At Mobile, as at New Orleans and all their cities, hackney- oHf r^ '^"'^' ^'^^T T *^^ ^'^^^^^^' ^^d ^ ^^««t of porters pfy for passengers and luggage at every arrival. A ereat shambling man of coWsSouldered my trunk and fwas soon housed 111 the best (Government) street of this singular own; delighted not to be forced to take refuge eithe?^ a splendid hotel, or a fashionable boarding-house By-the-by tWn' fW "' ^''^' l^otels here has just'been burniiwn 7a thing that happens so regularly that it is considered a matter Here'^'n^ ''J'^ '^''A T ^'''^ "* ^""^^^^ another twice as b g! Here, as at New Orleans, every corner has its Exchavqe. or peat room, witii its bar and 'immense display of boTt es ^ nL'. n^Tr^'^ r hurcly.gurdymay be heard constantly grinding, and a crowd constantly drinking. the norflf ?1 ff'^ bordering the great Gulf of Mexico on the north, and the Gulf Stream, leaving the mud of the Mis- Z??nw wil' '''''''iP'^ ^' you came to the eastward on the ame low level you itnd yourself in a country of pure white and-so fine that it serves for a sand-glass, or for your reTw ' '' ,T^yft^^t^rvals,here in Alabami, where tlere ionnllf ^f"^^ elevations, not quite hills, and land occa- ^^tUn^'^'Z ^' "'^P^ ?^ ^^y^^^^g' b««ides the great taple cotton. But across this noble bay, in West Florida his sand IS iJio earth; the shores blind ^ou witirtheir p^^^^^^^ ^^]^ eness and so of the whole south of the Eloridas. ^ +1 ^-"';— 5 o^v.xc:b, on whiuii me soft blue ocean ripples ui"o ll^'n^r !f P'^'f forests to the water's edge, mixed with ho live oak and giaiit magnolia, all wild and aromatic sweet, ? flf^ .•''^' ""^ Columbus, nay, far beyond in the mists ot abled timc-~are indescribably romantic, grand, and beau- "lui. liut as yet 1 am only m the sandy streets of Mobile, '; i I II HI, m 154 APPEARANCE OF MOBILE. which, cut up into teu t' ousand shifting, liarmlcss ruts, a good heavy ruin puts thiMu to rights— the only mending they ever get ; the footpatliH of the t)e8t streets, and those next tlio M-ater, are' of briek, but out i)f nmair. Most nart of tlio city is seareely al)ove the lev(»l of the water, and all the k)\ver streets are built on piles; intact, Mobile is buUt on a swam)), which is still wild and intact, half a mile oil' on each side of it, where the Alabanui river joins the head of th's vast bay, and where various ehaniu'ls 'form a series of islands, seareely above the water's edge, often inundated, but ordinarily farmed out for pastures or gardens. .Except a few streets next the bay, and two or three central ones ot half a mile in length, the whole town is in w ood— wooden mansions, with noble columns and porticos, many of them. Colunuis, porticos, rich cornices, handsome verandahs meet the eye everywhere ; it is a city of villas, the upper part standin«jf in their own small gardens. Trees on each sido shade the streets— the Indian-tree, the plane, and labernum ; in their gardens, the palmetto and orange ; but their orange, trees are kiUed by this extraordinary winter. Mobile lAay be said to be only' known to the Ameri'^nns. Few of our travellers visit these shores— lying out of the way in the Gulf of Mexict). hundreds of ijides within the far- stretching peninsula of i^'lorida, with which shore and its islands along the Gulf Stream (the high-road from the whole of the Antilles, Mexico, and South America) we are much more familiar. Like all this continent, it is full of wonders and excellences ; its forests alone on the seaboard are mines of wealth, and of late years Alabama has proved very fruitful in cotton ; almost rivtuling New Orleans. This city itself has spr ng into existence and opulence very recently. Early in thi^ century it was but a smiUl poor village, settled by the Freneh and Spaniards ; and, as at New Orleans, something of their customs and manners may bo traced in the present bustling city. Society is much more easy and pleasant, I think, here, and indeed in all the southern states, than in the northern ones; though here, as^ every- where, a great many of the children of the New England states have of late adiled their activity and enterprise by way of leaven to the more southern indolent enjoyment of the present hour. When Louisiana and the Floridas were ceded to the United ? 'ates by Franco and Spain, it did an immense good on. all bauds. It suddenly enriched their more quiet, Fdle colonists, whose possessions rose a kuiidred-fold in valiio in these towns, ami opened an illimitable lield to the energies of the northern states. The consequences become more evident every day, for here, in this nine swamp, town lots for building are sold at enormous prices—the value increasing ilosfl ruts, a loiidiuj^ they l080 next tl»o t of tiio city 11 ilio lower on a swamp, icli Hide oi'it, 'jist Ijay, and uls, 8(uu'coly larily farmed ilirco central is iu wood- cos, many of lie verandahs Lo upper part ju each sido d labernuni ; their oranyjc. e Americans, it of the way thhi the far- horo and its 3ni the whole A'o are much 11 of wonders }ttd are mines , very fruitful )pulcnco very a snudl poor id, as at Kow ners may bo a much mere I the southern (re, as every- New England pprise by way >yment of the IS were ceded d an immense r more quiet, l-foid in value :> the energies become more town lots for iue increasiug STATE OF TUT. 110 ADS. 165 every year. This is the great touchstono of prospority; oxcimt ui the f(?w ([uiet, retired descendants of the French iind Hpanish, one indeed liears nor sees anything ^f them ; but to this day the titlodeeds of the mo.st eligibh^ spots in and near the town belong to them, and a good deal impede the rapidity of building. Disputed titles, however, do but mako uiouey for the law yers. and check the general spread of tho )lneo but in a trifling do^rree. A doubtful title is shared by uilt tho more recent citizens; that fact alone gives them 'a greater security. Some of the merchants hero live magnificently— their jiouses are really ansions; a great many have liandsome equipages. Carriages and light wagons fly through tho streets as if on air, i'or the sand is so soft, no noise is heard. The sand macadamises all the streets and roads. There is,' indeetl, a little bad paving attempted in the lower part of tho streetj^ iouards the Mater— only to mako jolting and ruts and luud holes more obstrusive and annoying. There is some- I king very novel and phvisant in these fine sand streets and I'oiids, and seeing p('0])lo whisked about without tho least noise. Ihe hor;:e8 like it, though it does make their work tlie heavier; but their light wheels can bo dragged throirh anything at a full t/ot of twelve or fifteen miles tho Jiou-*. Out of town the drives are, however, confined to the environs. The favourite spot, six miles off, for recreation, is Spring Hill j to which a s/icll road, smooth and liard as a billiard- table, has been made through the woods. Thio is, however, a very expensive turnpike. Another and rather longer drive is opened through tho woods down the bay, beyond tho lighthouse ; whi-/ :, taking a circle among the villas and plantations round the town, ma\ be made eigh or ten miles. Forest, swamp, and the bay, keep their primitive possession of all beyond. There was some idea of making a road— a railroad to New- Orleans ; but across such swamps and forests for a hundred and eighty miles damps their courage. I)ay.labourers have very high wages, and navvies not to be liad as with us. There may, indeed, be a growing chanco shortly in the numbers of Irish Hocking of late to the south ; Mobde is already well stocked with them, their women being tJie most fre(|ucnt servants of all work to be met with. This puts me in mind of an Irish lad I gave a dime to at Lakeport. lie was making his wa^/" to Mobile, wifjjout a cent in the world, or indeed any clear idea of wJicre he was going to, or what he ..as going to do when he got there ! He was dodf'mt' liit3 captain and clerk, and stealing his passage on board— often done— and we encouraged it. The ])arty get on board, keep forward among the deck passengers, never inquire for .'"'13 m lii ^i; 156 MOBILE CITY FIXIN'^S. A%< i ♦1 " the office, say nothing, and on arriving at the wharf, wherever it is, try to step off the guard on shore, without the ceremony of going hy the general gangboard and presenting their ticket. Many get off, if lucky ; but if seen and questioned ^hey still get off, with the simple addition of a kick— Avhere their honour is not at all hurt. The addition of a string of forcible and peculiar oaths and vile names, in running accompaniment, passes by them like the idle wind ; there is no giving them in charge, nor taking before magistrates : people are all too much pre-occupied, particularly the captain. Mobile has 20,000 inhabitants, all thriving— some making rapid fortunes ; cotton-agents, lawyers, and doctors take the lead. It is now the great mart for all the country on the Gulf east of the Mississippi. Great steamers crowd its port with cotton from the country above along the track of its great river (Alabama), taking back goods of all descriptions, and hundreds of passengers, to the capital, Montgomery, three or four hundred miles up the river : the rupply, from Euro]^e and the West Indies, partly coming direct, and partly from New Orlean^s, where there "is a .ally increasing communica- tion. The distance by water (as I came) is one hundred and eighty miles, and the fare, chief cabin, five dollars, including supper and breakfast, or diimer. Tlio .sun here has a force not to be denied, the instant these unwonted north-west blasts cease ; so that early in February the woods and fields an; all in flower. Among the h>ost beau- tiful of the hedges and gardens in the environs, is the Che- rokee rose. In early spring these woods and wilds, as you drive about, have many charms ; not the len-t, the odoriferous pine and sweet myrtle. Tlie " Bush" still encir(;lcs the town on three sides ; tlien again, one is cloyed with rich sweets in the magnolias and Indian-tree, which perfume the streets ; but I think Lady Emily Stuart Wortlev has very lately written a delightful book telling us all about it ; and who Wf nld attemi)t to " paint the lily ?" 1 had the pleasure of knowinfa dens; and the town council, o inunicipalify, allow even iho sweet woods at the ends of th EEMNANTS OF THE INDIANS. 157 rf, wliercvep lie ceremony their ticket, ed -^liey still tlieir honour forcible and )Tnpaniment, vm^ them in all too much Dme making DPS take the ' on the Gulf ts port with of its great •iptions, and ery, three or from Euro]>o partly from communica- hundrcd and ,rs, including instant these in February e ii^ost beau- 3, is the Cho- vilds, as you odoriferous 'Ics the town ich sweets in the streets ; 1 very lately it ; and who of hers here, ry charming, ^ fijrav^ ! and is low, damp, , as at New as soon after ch the rocky ivivnini? home ijr lieat very efect, lins no n council, or D ends of the streets to be poisoned by the dead carcases of all sorts of animals : one spot, south of the town, is famous for this ter- ritio effluvia; and a colony of wild dogs— almost wild— for here the stray dogs of the town congregate, feast, and fight over the dead bodies of horses, cows, mules, &c. ; and thuy are ten thousand sweet flowers over head polluted, and bless- ings turned to a nuisance : but even the streets are in a sad dirty state too often ; the press complains, everybody com- plains, but nobody cares ; nobody will obey anybody, or ob- serve any sort of regulation, no matter how good or essential ; though the mayor every morning has a bevy at his "levee," who are heavily fined for drunkenness and getting into a mus (that is, fighting). I saunter about in the shade, sometimes to speculate solus on valuable lots, in and about the town, for building, at im- mense prices and doubtful titles : at oi jrs, I stroll to the edge of the woods, out Government-street, about a mile beyond the ends of the streets, where there is an Indian camp, or rather cluster of bark wigwams, WTetched beyond description, where a few very ^.oor Cherokees and Chickasaws yet linger— among the last of their race— still haunting their own country. The women are pounding Indian corn for their homany; kettles arc smoking about in the sun, slung to three sticks as a tripod ; sliel^er or privacy there is none— they hate it ; no, for ever the open air, at the root of a tree ; their wigwams do but serve to keep a few rags, pots, and arms in— perhaps the dew ofl' on cool nights. They suffered dreadfully this winter, but in a long life they may not I'eel such another. Some of them, the younger ones, may be seen every day lounging listless about the town, the men and boys with" bows and arrows to shoot at a mark, for a dime (a li'penny piece), their target being that identical tiny bit of silver, at so many yards, and rarely missed ! or they are listening to the port- able tinkling piano and tamborine of the Swiss bovs and gi- (who find their way to the ends of the earth). Their wome.., decked out in a mixed finery, like the men, go about the town so'Iing " chumpa" (chips of the pine to light fires), at an ex- travagant rjite, the men and women never by any chance toge- ther, and both with moat serious faces. They speak to nobody, rarely smile, or seem to take the smallest interest in anything going on about them. Here, in this way, have they lived for years immoved, unchanged, in tho Kuiallogt d.j'irvee or in the most trifling parti(!ular, even the youth who Tiave been born on the skirts of the city. Such is the infallible torco of custom and education, in short, tho forming of innate '^deas. They cannot understand us — never can — never will ; tliey look with pity, or u mero vacancy of thought, feeling ':.tii ■' m .I'i :il|i "'• I .(,) •'i,M 1.. :"t mi 158 SOCIETY — SOCIABILITV. R. '* ' '' 1" '■■■ [f:- !• '■ In • ■■ |k . in ' .-^ ' ■(: i nothing, on the finest briclc mansions lierc, the most shiiiinn; equipages, the most charming China crape shawls, satin dresses, and Parisian boimcts and feathers (for the ladies all dress excessively). Their gowns and flaring cotton shawls, they wear from sheer necessity, the heads alone of their women (always bare) are their own :' perhaps they'd like some of the gold bracelets they may sec; but certainly nothing else of ^European favshion or fabric. Except what they can nick up about the town, I have no idea how they can live at all, for they do no work in our sfense, and produce nothing, not even a grain of Indian corn, almost their sole food. A few^ more of these Indian tribes still re- main in the Floridas, but they have been ordered off beyond the head-waters of the Red lliver. There is a dilRculty in getting them to leave their pine-woods and old huntmg- gromids ; and spite of all the previous fighting, it is thought they will once more attempt resistance, when the Indian military agoi\t enforces the decrees of Congress. I have been to one or two very pleasant small evening parties, where everything was as well-bred, relined, quiet, and luxurioiis as in our own best circles. A carpet dance was relieved at intervals by very delightful singing, by some very pretty girls. From the little I have seen of it, I should say that Mobile possesses a great share of beauty and accomplish- ments in its women, and pleasing manners among the leading men. But refined society is getting more and more the same exact thing all over the civilized world. Here in this bran-new^ community one looks for novelty, out of dooi's, at least, so I stroll to where .lev are making a railroad through the forest swarips to Citronella, thirty miles up the river ; it already reaches Mauvilla, twelve miles, and excursion trains are very busy so far, loaded backwards and forwards with the idle and the curious. This railroad is the beginning of an immense line which in determined on (and is surveying) to join the Ohio somewhere about its junction at Cairo, or at Louisville in X'^ntucky, and 80 complete the chaui on to Lake Erie ; doubts and diflu-ul- ties as yet keep it on i)aper — the distance alono 1200 miles ! A branch, too, will go to Montgomery, where, bv the way, there is a sort of track, or primitive road, through the swamps and woods, on which the mail stage wearily f ruggles through sand, and mud, and corderoys, when the stt amers cannot get ui) the river ; from thcuco a railroad runs through Georgia, tlie Caroiinas, and Virginia to the Potomac, below Alexantlria. There is a kind of clammy, misty, calm heat here in the south, wl-'ch already begins to bo felt early in March; one gasns for breath, and I look with wistful eyes down the street to the water-side and the shipping. OFF IN A CLiri'EE SCHOONElf. 159 lost sliiiilD;^ uiwls, satin Lie ladies all bton sliawls, heir women some of tlio liing else of 1, 1 have no n our «euse, corn, almost ibes still re- off beyond dilHciilty in Id himtmi;- t is thouc;iit the Indian lall evening ined, quiet, }t dance was y some very L shoidd say acconiplisli- the leading )re the same for novelty, re making a thirty miles v> miles, and [^kwards and ine which id ) somewhere 'kitucky, and and difllcul- 1200 miles ! bv the way, the swamps yfles tlirough s cannot get !gh Georgia, Alexandria. here iii the iMareh; one ^u the street It IS ]iot very emy to get away from Mobile at any time or i on Af % T>^''^^ '\^ '''^^^'^' «" irregular communica- li^ad n • i!'P l5:'^V ?J!'f' ^^^^y. ^ «"^«11 steam-boat across tho m rums, m a. charmmg elevated spot at the edge of the pine stage makes a devious track through solemn, noble, silent woods for near sixty miles further, to Pensacola ; this, ndeed IS the mail and the only means of transit, except b^ water round the head of tlu, gulf. There is, howeve?, noVmuch ace as yet with the Floridas, and not many pa;sengeS so at a lew coas lug schooners carry backwards and forwa^-ds on board' o^'^'h-' ''^' ^'.T J^^^'^H^^rs taking their chance on board of getting round (a Imndred miles), it may be in tu-elve hours, or it may be in a v^eek, for the bay and the -ult arc very capricious, and if it blows, the glutting out and .1 over the bars often dangerous. ^ hound ril'n^} "FfT ^''' ''^"'^ ^^y' ^^^ ^ beautiful schooner hound round ; but tnc promises to sail any given day are par- S'i^^r"''^'' l^creabouts ; indeed, it'^a^ways depend on ihZ 1' T \"^ke up a cargo ; the cabin passengers only being considered extra, as an inferior live lumber. Mv schooner was to take round salt, and iron machinery, and JS^^iSir ^■'"'^' ^^^^'^ ^'™^^' ^"^ sashes, al^ ^ The captain, a guy, good-looking, fast young fellow, divided us tinie between smoking at the stores of lis friend and ng down below tlu. lighthouse to a certain handsome 'vil a. jnlure a certain pair of bright eyes enslaved his volatile soul I -volatile as the foam of the breakers at Mobile Poinc Tho ^Sedrwn'r"^ ^^ VM^' ^'^^'^ ^-^ '^ ^^^ as a Mahom! nedan paradise. He had been a midshipman, but some lieu- niant on he quarter-deck of a frigate hall dared to reiTrJand inn. and ho had pitched the navy to limbo. Whenever I ould cat(.h this mercurial child oY the blue wave (and of a ost ^uieifiU velvet cap) on board, we were to be o^'' i^gh? kay; however, at the ond of a week we started in good rnest, and in what I thou^dit a dead calm. But it is mZ §M^^w"'' 7"^?^ (Clipper schooners)^whi<.h arc ,>ar. icularly things of life"~how they creep away, as the can. juu whistled, wi^ I the la.t breath o/air. ^The glassy urS M the bay was like a mirroi*. nn vm ,.rnnf „i««., „J!^^„ "il nuumerable drill logs by theligliUiouse^and-Sor^md I was low water, and w.. drew eight feet, an unHeard of ep h for an> vessel under 300 tons; but she had been built or a revenue cniiser. It T^tts very tedious iu tho buy ou tho mud, though our cap. •111 I' 'V ^f I ■^.•' ' v; 160 A DARKY STEWARD AND BOY JEM, tain had his sails set point device ; and what loves of sails and spars ! He convinced me, too, that his cabin had no equal— nor had his cook, who put before us some beefsteaks and dough-boys, of a greasiness, toughness, and solidity, to d^fy the universal world to match. But there was an Irish tailor and a lady friend of his (in early life from the sod— a widow, God help her, and well to do in the world), who gravely, with due decorum, made their way even through these guttapercha dumplings. But as we sat in state we had a tall, handsome, mulatto steward, who superintended their despatch with a demure face, and I thought somewhat with the least taste in life of dry Immour in the twinkle of his eye, as he exchanged nudges and winks with an attendant cabin-boy — Jem, who was originally of Liverpool, but now on his travels on the high road to' fortune! Throe times had this heroic boy, starving about the streets in rags, stowed himself away in ships ; three times been found out, well cuffed, and turned back ; always half naked ! He persevered, poor lad, and at last a good-natured captain let him work liis passage over; and here he was, well paid, well dressed, and ill washed, the chief man (After the uiack steward), with a very considerable influence over his master the skipper. It was, Lowe^^er, only in the cabin this respectful state was kept up. I have reason to think both Jem and the darky steward had the greatest contempt for a poor half-starved seedy-weedy Yankee family, who sat on the casks, or a spare spar on deck, and ate their very frugal meal out of tlieir family wallet, helped out with the family pipe, wliicli went from the long, lean, woe-begone father to nis attenuated wife, next in turn, and thence shifted to the lantern-jaws of their son and heir. « i i I think in my life I never saw such a set of wretched ♦• 'atomies "--bad living, and no living, and fever and ague, had worn them to the bone; there was a little daughter leaner, if possible, and more sallow than the rest. They looked m if the swamp jungles had drawn them all up into a sol-t of walking sticks— in fact, it had. They were a kind of roving squatters in the woods and on patches of cleared land deserted by the owners, or not owned at all ; or if they rent any sort of farm, fill off by moonlight as the rent day comes round. I saw two or three parties of this kind coming down the great rivers — and they arc not infrequent h^rc — as soli- tary, wild, and penniless as any ragged peat-hut cottier of Conneniara. A breeze and a thunder-gust brought us down the bay, and we anchored in a fog among the town of cotton ships. Next day the fog, a sort of driving mist, continues. But nothing caii stop our thorough sea captain j he knew the coast of sails and , no equal — sfsteaks and iity, to defy Irish tailor d — a widow, jravely, with gutta pcrcha [, handsome, atch with a Least taste in e exchanged ' — Jem, who avels on tlie heroic boy, self away in , and turned • lad, and at assage over; washed, the considerable ful state was d the darky half-starved ka, or a spare out of tlieir which went enuated wife, jaws of their of wretched er and ague, ttle daugjiter I rest. They I all up into a rere a kind of f cleared land r if they rent ;nt day comes coming dowi li^ro — as soli- lut cottier of I the bay, and nhips. ntinues. But Lnew the coast A VILLAGE OF PILOTS. 161 as well as the pilots, who have a village, and live like fightinff- eud of the ba '""''"^^ peninsula which forms the southern With our resources (four hands before the mast), getting on shore on this sandy beach and lying tliere all day, w^s nothmg-with an anchor dropped from the main-bocJi end (we had no boats, and fired our one gun in vain to the pilots m sight), we hove the old lass off towards evening, and the mist moving away, we ran down and anchored among a squadron of pdot schooners at the village. Skipper and I went on shore (he had left his boat here), roved across some lagoons, and through the myrtle, magnolia, and pine iun-le across to the outer shore, where clear blue old ocean ripr3ed as we picked up shells. On this solitary bea di an Irisiiman passed us, barefoot ; we stared, as he rather avoided us Ue found afterwards tl,(it ho had bolted froia the caboose, as cook of one of the pilot boats). It was too early for the alligators; and we only saw one moccasn snake Keturning. at a likely widow's kind of pubhc-house, we had a go of rum-got a stock of real Havanas -and off again Several jolly pilots, our skipper's friends, came on board to smoke and drink; and one might havj iancied oneself among the buccaneers of Dampier's time. I^ext day \v^ were as nearly lost on the breakers between the entrance lighthouses as possible; the sea (and ground swell on the bar) was tremendous. The wind lulled as we beat out m its teeth, just as we made a critical short board ; but miss IS as good as a mile," we breathed again, and earnestly thank God for it ; it was so near ending badly In the evemng our capital captain landed us at the Earancas, near fhe navy yard As we shook hands, I felt really Horrv to part with so good a fellow. ^ ^ The Barancas (de San Carlos) is at tlic mouth of the bar- bour ot Pr/?Wa (which is but a small town six miles higher up the inlet at the mouth of the Escambia). Here the United fcjtates has four heavy forts, large brick barracks, a hospital, and naval dockyard ; all excellent of their kind, and in the most exact order ; indeed, the dry dock and floating dock, off tho yard are stupendous. This floating dock (;an bring in or out any line-of-battle ship (complete) over twelve feet water, thou|5h, mdeed, there is twenty feet on tho bar, at the har- bour s mouth; and thirty at the dock gates. The two nr three-decker is thus transferred to the dry dock if necessary • jviicro Slips stettiii-engines, and a railroad, can run her ui) an incline to the back of the yard ! Hero just now an able man, Commodore Stocton, presides : ho 18 a senator, and has lately carried a bill through boti; Uouses to abohsh flogging in the navy ! It is not liked by .ill ■'illl'ii :^i:!!|i iill •Titewi 162 I^OCKYAED—PENSACOLA. • /M.' lL-_ naval officers ; but becomes, I conclude, imperative, to suit the change of ideas of the age. The naval and military officers and families here make a very pleasant society. They have it all to themselves in these blue waters, snow-white sands, and silent woods ! Above and below the yard small wooden towns have started up (Warring- ton) nearly as large as Pensacoia itself. The " appropriations " for the naval service are very heavy, and the dollars attract loose storekeepers, tri/.desmen, workmen, and speculators; though Pensacoia itself scarcely holds on its population — a dozen or two of frame-houses, burnt down seven years ago, have left their brick chimneys standing as monumental warn- ings to the go-aheads ! Buc a few years gone by, and all this was Spanish. Their names remain, mixed with the Indian ones ; as do some few families, or their half Anglo-American descendants, as at Mobile and New Orleans. But I have no elbow-room to plod on sensibly in facts ; we may learn them from almanacks. I must " catch the living " alligators " as they rise !" I saw one fellow swimming across the lagoon at the back of the Barancas, Just through a belt of woods ; all these shores are lined along the beach by ribbons of shallow lagoons, full of jfish, snakes, frogs, and alligators ; he was a long waj^ off, and I only saw his snout going along. I often look cautiously among the dogwood bushes, myrtle, and oleanders, for the moccasin snake. They are said to be dangerous. I only saw one, and with the wisdom of the sei-pent it quickly stole out of the way of that foolish, but much more wicked animal — man. As there is not a stone in all this country, they employ, as I have said, the shells found in some spots in vast masses (the Gnathodon) to make short roads ; here they have made a chip-road of a mile lon^ from the dockyard to the barracks at the Barancas — (the chips from the dockjrard) — a deHghtfiJ drive ; but already the fine sands under it are swallowing it up ; as they do the shells and everything laid on its surface, in a very short time. Mould and manure arc alike engulphed, go that agriculture of any kind is only seen here and tliere, even in the open country ; a garden still more rarely. The fig-tree is very luxuriant, however; and cultivated flowers when kept in tubn or pots to secure the mould. Nothing of the kind can bo more admirable than these shores ; the celestial blu(» of the ocean, the dazzling white purity of the beach, the firoinatie pcriuine oi tiiese mtiTmiP' able pine forests, and the luscious odour of a thousand iiowenng shrubs and creeping tendrils, all for a moment fill the soul with delight- a^ wo gratefully contemplate this beauteous variety of nuturt- "up to nature's God,' it is per- feet in itself! But one m-i^t be *• to the manner born;" the BAEANCA8 DE SAN CARLOS. 163 tive, to suit lere make a Ives in these Above and .p (Warring- ropriations '* illars attract speculators; Dpulation — a n years ago, aental warn- fiisli. Their io some few lants, as at ow-room to a almanacks, rise !" I saw back of the ie shores are joons, full of wa}^ off, and i cautiously lers, for the I only saw kly stoic out aimal — man. f employ, as , masses (the ave made a ! barracks at a delightfid wallowing it 1 its surface, 3 engulphed, •e and there, 'arcly. The ated flowers than these zzling white a thousand , moment fill 'mplato this d, it is pc^ bornj" the heats dry up us Europeans to mummies, the sands blind us ; trrthtTl"^- ''' ^''''^"' ''^^^'' ^^^ insects assert leir right of dommion. are not to Ibe killed off' so easily as the Indians, and live and swarm very properly to plague us. tuZn"^'"""'''?' ^T ^^^iWx^oving mists^leep il Trn^l T""' '"f^ ""'l^ '^^*'^^^ *^^^^« ' i^ «Pit^ of a fire in r/enw^^le7ur ''^'^''"' '"'"'''^ '^''^ ^^^^ ^ild«^» Jw7J!I'f''^ ^^7.^^^ '^^ ^^'^^^ «^*' a^d anon you could not see ton yards 1 -ofore you. The flvinff clouds swpnf ike sa^ds (the simple fact, indeed), but so Sd wfth sXL to make it doubly disagreeable. ' I meant to retairn to Mobile through the forest by the stage .teame wnirh calls there from Stockton, further up the river. Indeed, it is the only road and the inly conveyance' tchoo^ne'i " '' ""' ''"' "^ ''''''^'y' '^'^^' ^y «1«^ o; lLT '""V!?" '""''^^^^^ 1*? *^^'^ comfortable frame board buses and their verandahs under a group of maeniCnt kve oaks, whose u-elcome ^hade gives a^dou^le z^tttng oyer these dazzlmg sane lowards the harbour's entrance an! he gulf beyond, where the light blue wave cuts the horiz^ brfhl^'T^.i^^'^r^^^'.^T^' «^«^t natm-e-for the board houses of he domestic slaves, and the great brick barracks, stand a little further back at the edge of the forest md the noises of black piccaninnies aud pigs, focks, liLs and •ows, are dispersed and absorbed in tL woods-I cannot fcetomrf^irr; ^"^ ^^'^ ^^"^ relationrandfriLt I^Jiose home for hfe it is, without a sigh. How much of jharming and of good ineffable there is everywhere Tei the face of tlis beautiful world! how much of quiet unoMmsivo vorth, which ives and dies in some little unknowS cM?-aa lore on these lone distant shores ! But I would^ot be sad' LlfobiJ-^'yi I «M equally long remember are rich in tunny objects and things to move one's mirth-none more so than the IVIassa Niggers. , Here is the stronghold hi Me of aver^, as if to plague the very lives -fot fear they shonld Hhe Un. r/^^^d^^ -V^f tl^-ir unhappy owners? The o n,!nl? r '"Ji^'"^""^'^"^^ P^*^^^^*^^' ''' ««t^r fact. In the trthatXr D flT'''^' '^''-r'' ^^^^^ ^^d soft-hearted !;!\*h^iT^'^.';"^i'f?!,^^.»^^ ^^^1 moment bought a voun^ -X ui .-xiiica .ic .vIoDUe lor m) doUars, a boy of "about f eon, as a sort of Buttons, Of a nice suit o^r two Ms a ter had dressed hnn in nothing now remained but the ody of his blue jacket and rod collar, the sleeves had nearly oparted; and the rest of him was made up of dirt/tateJ rius mgger was very like a monkey in the expression of iS M 2 :; ! |!ji|i| ytm W'r.-' 164 NEGRO AMUSEMENTS. ■ /sV provolf 5cliief! Mast demon I (lat av'fi I all ataiK time 'tis do sich. 1 face, and in elicer comical but m contrived to do no one tiling lie was toici, or spoueci wnatever he touclied. Half the time he >a as not to be found — busy, very likely, sucking the eggs, chasing the young pigs, or at marbles, or gambling for cents with other young idle niggers like himself at the back of the stables. He cleaned my shoes, and tied the strings in interminable knots. Hight Randal was his name, and his poor master had to be eternally after I lie, he ! him. But the day did not suffice for the mischief of this | my sticl animal ; he would get up in the night, take the pony out of the stable, and ride the poor thing through the woods and sands of the beach for hours, till daylight, when he would slip off the bridle and regain his own bed. He was detected by their finding the pony in a sweat, and quite knocked up ! Sometimes he was sent to Warrington, a mile oiF (at the dockyard) to the post-office for letters, where he generally contrived to stay t\\'o or three hours, though ho was sure to go and come at fuU gallop. Enter Randal, trotting up the sand-hanJc, .seeinq his master ! coming towards him, out of all patience. Master. — You Eandal, where have, you been all this time? Randal. — Been to Possuffice, sa. Master. — What ! ever since ten o'clock — now three hours P Randal. — I make base, sa. Dare am no letta. IVic Mack cook loench now comes out of the house, Cooi\-r-Massa, dcre is no e^gs dis morning ! Master. — No eggs ! why, didn't B and al go for them to the stables ? Cook {grinninq). — He nebber fetched none, anyhow— and said as how de sivunk eat *im ! Master. — The skunk! why, you animal, you don't mean to say you found none ? Randal. — Yes, massa, I tell do trufie — derc was two tree shell! Master- Two or three shells ! If Tom's not gone to tk dockyard, yet, send him here, Kesiali 1 JEnter Tom, the shipwright, Tom. — I knows about it. Look here, massa, dat nigfjel Randal, tell de biggest lie. I seed him suck de eggs myse'f- you knows dat. Who hoUerd arter you when you was in d( loft, dis morning? I seed you through the chink! Mj Look on lie, he, 1 Masti tlieyP get your This i when M liis mast got off \ kindness excuse O] or two, i] could he thing — h of him a master. i\'ere onl distress ; however, overythin ill the h dollars) i nay an o^ this kind A frien ii^htful s miijihig h or left, I started fr tlie post-i towns (the nro wide, louses ha pjall gard orm tne c lie diffici Master. — O, you devilish skunk ! Tom. — More nor dat — where is de old Sow and de sebe piccani my I see you a chasing troo de wood right over to dfltlic (!orne] lagoon? Hay dollar de crockumdilc got some on 'em afoAt once diji— • pid out 1 COW.SKIN C0EBECTI0N8. 1(35 ;i:d'wL«:|deSf--'^'''" ^'----f-f why, you perpetual found— busy, I Tom.—O, dere is plenty more tings. Dere is no nao fpllir,^. ? i^le niggers I all standing, aflore long ! Somotimeie say 'tis de dog! sor J. lec myshoes I ime tis de wolf may be de cat-may be de skunlc-wbat .ight liandalMfo sicb awful trouble! YoucateU it di/time, any how!- e ternally af erilie, he! 2%.y all ffrln, Ha ndal included.) But^I must cut sclnef of tins Jmy stick lor de yai-d. {To liandal, half aside as he Z J I pony out I Look out for squall. De old man getting right mad noS-^^ le woods and ■ ho, he, he ! ' " s^i- luuu, now en he would | Mas(cT.-~.Yon young imp. The skunks eat the ecrgs, do was detected I they P You've made haste, have youP Put un the nonv nm? nocked up ! | get yourself ready for a dance in the ballTroom ! ^ ^' ^ le off (at the! Ihis ia//-room was the boat-house on the beach, where he general yinhenMassa Eandal had done something extra mischievois' ewas sure tolliis master whipped iim with a cowskin ; but he gcnerX got oft with only a box on the ear. But to correction or kindness he was equally impervious ; nor could any sort of excuse or explanation ever be got out of him. After a year or two 111 Avhichhe nearly wore J lis master out-for in nothing £ ho W ^r '^' -'V^'i ''^^'' "^ '' ^^ '^' most tr[flinf n.f ~ ? 1 . ^'^ exquisite pleasure and good luck to getrict 1 or M^l'-^^'i ^^^ ¥""''' ^^ «ome%ther unforti^nate master. My friend owned several other slaves-the women «'ere only rather dirty and lazy, and very careless, theTr ustress managing as well a» she coidd with them-obliged however, to be chief slave herself, and to have an eye to evervthing herself; and two or three men slaves, not wanted 111 the house, were hired at so much a month (eighteen ollars) in the dockyard-the most profitable and peasant ay an owner has, when he is so unlucky as to posst^ss only tins kind of distressing property. ^ A friend sailed me up to Pensacola in his boat, on a de- i.i,4itful sunny afternoon, the mists clearing off: and bv nuinmg hard up the sandy High-street, without looking ric^ht h .i 1 / '"''V'^ '^.^'""^ *^*'^^"^^ ^^^ ^^^il stage- it had tarted from its own tavern, but happily had pSlled ut) at b pos .office to take in the bag. 'M all t?op cal sLl ™ though not qui e within the line). Tensacofa's streets 10 wide, and left in their o^^n natural sand or nmd. The iouscs handsome, of wood frame, with verandahs ; aU have ^pjiiii gardens, wiicic iho orange, the fig, and the palmetto form tne ornament, shade, and ahnost the only verdure, from ho difficulty of keeping any mould uppermost. Turning io corner from the last garden palings! we were almost t once m the pine-woods, making fanciful tracks in Hid out round the trees, or over their roots, which occa- ill Iff his master we. ill this time? three hours ? ? house, r them to tlic anyhow— and don't mean to was two tree t gone totli( 3a, dat nigjjel eggs rayse'f- jrou was in d( chink ! Mj nnd do sebc ;ht over to d on 'em afori SiP' ■til 1 1 iiii " ''ii!i! 160 LEAVE PEKSACOLA— THROUGH THE WOODS. 'l-lf. ' T ' ■',/'• f' ' > sionally gave us suoh jolts as only can be enjoyed in a United States stage; it would at once break the springs of our coaches ; , but they have no springs, the body is suspended on two huge straps, on which it pitcnes backwards and forwards. This stage was the most comfortable I have ever been shaken in. The night was a bright moonlight, and the ride, take it oltogother,- delightful. Silent, sweet, awful, as we flitted amov.'a' these grand living columns of the stately pine, no sound but the rattle of the harness as we rolled over the dead leaved carpet : now and then the " Whip-poor-will" told ns he was wide awake, or, as we descended in some hollow, c, gentle chorus of bull-frogs greeted us. Once or twice a rustle near tt^. among the leaves told us of startled deer, but they are getting scarce. ;fi very eight or ten miles we came to cleared patches, a farm, or small hamlet, of log or frame-houses, and a small circle of cultivated fields ; at these we watered the horses ; and the only passenger with me, who chattered of his own wonderful sayuigs and adventures incessant the whole night, treated his victim (the driver), having some conscience, to a go of whisky. We changed our pair of horses, I think, only three times (sixty miles) ; once or twice the driver pulled np in the depths of these wild woods, started off, and disappeared entirely, but soon returned with a bucket of water from some fairy dell and spring he only knew of. It must not be supposed' from what I say of the sands of Florida that it is all sand ; perhaps it only occupies, more or less, ten or fifteen miles of the sea margin. We soon, there- fore, got to a gently undulating country through the woods, till we come half-way to a tract of swamp, and over a three mile corderoy, to the Perdido river, the dividing line between West Florida and Alabama ; this is a very A?heron. Over this wide, solemn, dark, deep flood wo were ferried at mid- night, our coachee sounding his horn in advance, while wo were a mile off', floundering slowly in the ruts and holes of tlie terrible corderoy. By daylight we drew near the edge of Mobile Bay and the forest, passing a pretty spot, a hollow and a creek, where ;i Mr. Sibley has made a large fortune at his saw-mill; and, not content, has built an immense cotton factory, which it is thought will undo him. By sunrise we trot the last railo along the cleared country, on the margin of the bay, whcro liiU IlUiUS iUUlil'Cl picdauilv. j-iv^Iivyoiivu-i- - tv..-! -,-.. - — decked the way as we drove into the deserted town o Blakeley. The" land on this side of the bay has a good eleva tion, and a good firm soil, and the town is delightfully situated at the eastern mouth of the Alabama river. A ^q\w years aj^n it was all life and bustle ; now the tavern at the water-side m ODS. d in a United ►rings of our juapended on ind forwards. • been shaken ) ride, tato it 18 we flitted tely pine, no over the dead will" told lis mo hollow, R. or twdce a led deer, but 9d patches, a and a small [ the horses; i of his own whole night, iscienee, to a I think, only VGY pulled up d disappeared er from some the sands of ipies, more or e soon, there- ^h the woods, over a three <• line between ^heron. Over arried at mid- nee, while wo id holes of the ? Bay and the reek, where a mill; and, not % wiiich it is the last milo le bay, whero ^jioi»f>Kee rose^ rted town 1 a good eleva- tfully situated few years aj^i) ) Avater-side is TIJE DBSBETED VILLAGE— BLAKELY. 167 alone inhabited, all the nice frame-houses are shut up and going to ruin, the flowers in the gardens choked with weeds, all owmg to a mysterious miasma, which kills only in certain spots ; for on the same level five or six miles lower down the bay, there is a great hotel, to which the gentry of Mobile fly HI summer in search of health. In this " deserted village^' the court-house is alone kept open, and lo ! the county sheriiF had just landed from "the village," ten miles below, with a big hirsute rufll.Vi, whom ho was himself obliged to shoot (in the leg) before he woidd submit to the law. This brute who now came limping up, supported by two constables, to the tavern porch, had been amusing himself half killing a poor woman, as she refused to sell him as much whiskey as he wanted. The steam-boat was in sight, snorting down the river; while we waited on the jetty (this was the court day, neither judge, jury, nor audience visible), it was said another case of violence was ready for the sheriflf and constables somewhere near ; and a third job appeared in the person of a wounded woman, who came limping along from the woods in search of a constable to look after her husband, who "had cut her to pieces and mm off into the * bush' with their two children." This woman was the picture of famine and misery, as she sat on a log. On being asked if sh^ lived far off, ahe exclaimed, " Oh, I live nowhere. He never would settle in no place, but keeps moving about." What a scene, and what a tale, here in this smiling, deserted, melancholy Arcadia ! We thread the channels of the flat islands, and land at Mobile in an hour and a half, about fourteen miles across. But I am hurried from Mobile with the barest notice of it. Trade and speculation, as in all their cities, is the one ab- sorbing thing. The wharves for a mile are piled with cotton bales, unloaded and loading (from the river above) ; the very trees are draped and made ugly by its flying about. If they have a sensation, or a moment for the une arts, it IS the stag' and music. Catherine Hayes, Mrs. Bishop, Bochsa, and Kossuth, stir them up to enthusiasm alternately, and carry off their dollars. Tho theatre and circus are open, and small stars strut their hour— a Sir William Don so-so in comedy, and a Mr. Nefie execrable in tragedy, but the riding and clowns not so bad. Away, away, the Mara is loaded, cabin, deck, and all, with pnttnn bnlpQ. Slio ia a In-iralTr Kow/-.,Tr» l^^.,..4-;r.,i j.- i _i _ „_- — _ x„T^. ^ ,^-Li.i -J u-u — wcaus/iiui CAUUUUmgiy i i can t stand on trifles ; I see there is just room to sit at a small table by the mizenmast. Ca]jtain Parks is a charming man, and will take me slick away to Boston for thirty-five dollars. No wine, no spirits— tho only thing on earth, or on the wide waters of the earth, he sets his face against; so we "!l :i! i m ' Ml :h. ■•'1 :-'■. '.i I I GULF OF MEXICO — GULF STEEaM. grasp liands, done — the last bale is crammed in ; a steamer, with cotton for the cotton ships below, takes us in tow, and by next day (only getting' on the mud once) I find myself once niorb clearinfj^ Mobile Point and crossing that awful bar. Adieu, ye muddy rivers, bright white sands, magnolias, live oaks, pines, and festooned flowery swamps ! Yet am I sorry to part with ye—*' It may be for aye, and it may be for ever" — but other lands, and other flowers, and other beings call me away, far away, over old Ocean's tide. We have a tedious week in the Gulf, struggling with fantastic winds, and calms, and squalls, to the Tortugas ; a string of islands along the extreme south point of Eastern Morida, some 700 miles, before we can round this point and get into the high road of the Gulf Stream. Our barque sails like a witch— better than the Water Witch ■ — and is as stiff as — a midshipman on half-pay ! in spite of the cotton lumbering her deck. Parks (who is the best-tem- pered man I ever knew — he never uttered one cross word the whole voyage, even when wet through and blown t-^ atoms) owns her, and other pleasant things; a "dulce domum et placens uxdr" somewhere up some little river in Connecticut, where he looked sharp after the building of this, his second wife, and tlie breath of his nostrils ; runs her anywhere for freiglit, home or abroad. He was just across from the Medi- terranean with Iruit, and would think nothmg of Canton, Calcutta, or Honololu, at a day's notice — ice or cotton, flour, hardware— nav, coals ; he'd •' carry coals" from Newcastle to Niugpo— anything anywhere, only come up to his mark as to the figure ot the freight per ton. He inveighed much at the delays (and so did other skippers) at Mobile, and would have gone on to New Orleans, but it would have cost him 500 dollars to go round ; for pilots, stei'- i-tugs, and other taxes. He gets 3;^- to 4 dollars per ton, and refused to take a cent less (for Wenham-lake ice to Mobile) in Boston on our arrival. Ours is an excellent cabin, but it's full of cotton ; it blows in- cessant and adverse, but we carry on canvas no man-of-war woidd dare to show, and our seamanship is equally admirable Avith our ship. I go to bed, and hold on the side of my cabin berth by way of passing the time. Mr. Jones, who is a wag, and loves South Boston baked beans and pork better than dinde aux truffes, is for ever quizzing a raw, pretty Irish girl, the " stewardess," bound in indissoluble wedlock to the steward and cook, an angular, ill-fiiyourcd " down Easter," who, in turn, is a shade jealous of said mate, and doesn't relish jokes — nohow, I guess. ^ " And how is yourself, and how is the peraties, this tip-top o' the morning, Mrs. Norah ?" AlONG THE COAST TO CAPE COD. 169 But Jones was glorious (when not at the fore-royal yard or b-boom end or re-stowing our ragged cotton, or Snt ^n- SStv r ^ • ' ^7^' ^^'*^^' l^^^^ *^«1P1"^ •' I looked A\itlit)ityo ,.,^ dying throes; nothing is exafftrerated of tli « meffajb beau.y of its colours in their shadoiTcWei? How hai, !. e! How long it lashed the deck • alternat^ brignt ...e. affron, and silver, edged with Tts 'dark blue dorsal Jm ; t.en, dying, a mottled azSre. Oh, noble superb r/onr Z ^'- ^"'"'^ % beauty ! I can;iot beir Tesr agonies. Luconscious, merry Jones is for a moment hatpfnl But we all thought it excellent eating the nexThSour • aU .ny fine silent sentiment vanished in the frying-pan but are we ever half an hour consistent P ^^ ^ ' ® fl.o i^Y^ '''' extremely rough passage, the wmd in our teeth the whole way; but we kept in the Gulf Stream and W once sighted the American low shore ; none of tl^Bahamas our siglit ; one En/;hsh barque, about our own size (380 tons) our vicious bui.d,i.t for nothing; besides, she was too deeu ^n rum and su/ai f-om our ruined isles ^ Parks and I often talked on this subject, so mortifyinff to ones pride of country. "But," says lie, "I looked shai^ after my Mara on the slips; this here six- nch plank capS the topside fore and aft, f would have first-rate, for the wS they are seventy-five feet, best whit, orlive oak. I made The builder change them twice. I was bound, I cal'late tcScuLpf to ha.e ,t first-rate, no flaws, no knots, no nonseti.^'^rst^^^^ on my own gunwale, sir-y^s, sir..." We had a handsome figure-head an Indian chiefs bust, he explained it. " Wdl ir, I was down in Mara-caibo in the Bight often-that La lull, thats It! He cut all long words in half- for the skipper had no notion of superfluoiTs syllables or ^pedTment nf/ ffT^- -^^ ^^'^' ^^" twenty-one tedious da?s^ beS and bufi-etmg m a rough sea, we ran into smooth water and fogs, among a cluster of islands on the coast below Cane Cod cafled Martha's Vineyard, and took a pilot for thread ' 1 am once more only near Boston, « bound to go there " as the cantain sairl. nnrl T +oir« i„-c — Jj x-,.. -.n ^ , ^ii^^^A vlgl'nce.'' ^"" '"'''' '^^^'^ seamanship, and 'a neverXp'ng ; m ■ ■■liii in 170 CHAPTER X. /. 'j , . '\ I MARTHA'S VINEYARD— BOSTON— LOWELL— NEW LONDON- LONG ISLAND— CLIPPEU LINER HOME. Sailing amoiig these islands in smooth water, after the kicking about we have had for twenty days, is very delightful. This is in the immediate neighbourhood, I think, of that little gem, belonging to Mr. Daniel Websrer, Lady Emmelino Stuart mentions as so picturesque and charming; but wo couM only see it at a distance as we threaded our way through shoals and rooky passages ; their villages and har- bours looking very inviting, with their numerous coasting craft at anchor or under sail; others busy fishing, while scat- tered farms, and their cattle grazing, enlivened the scene ; all the more pleasing on a fair sunny day, as the night before wo were threatened with a gale from the e&3t. Passin^' die island of Nantucket, we ily along the low sar dy shores whicli form Cape Cod ; and our old weather-beaten farmer-looking pilot for this inner passage is superseded off the light-house by a smart young fellow of the bay, much against Inn will (as he had some faint hopes of evading him and taking us on) ; but these beauteous white-winged sea- gulls of pilot-boats are too numerous and sharp-sighted to leave a chance, she pounced on us I'ke a hawk, and we beat in through the numerous rocky islanr' and shoals of tliis vast bay in the teeth of half a gale oi wind, with royals set and colours flying. The pa^ssago to the inner harbour, guarded by Fori; Inde- pendence to the left on Castle Island, and a battery on xhompson's Island to the right ; where tliere is a very large general hospital, to whicli young medical students repair for practice, as oars tlo to Guy's or St. George's — getting in against the wind through so narrow a passage is a ticklish aliiiir, tn-k and half tack ; but our barque can go about in her own length, aiul towards niglit wo are anchored, previous to being wavped in for the night — for ihe whole line of wharves are so craiununl with ships in double and treble tiers, that it has to bo carefully ascertained where room for us can be found, not too far from the cotton marts, which lie at the novth end of Commercial-street, the leading tlioroughfaro in the l()\M'r part of the town. Wo find it now, the last of A])ril, very cold, and not a leaf out on the trees: ten degrees Koutli of the Isk^ of Wight ! I would fain say more of ilu'se islands—a most interesting grou])— full of villages and liar- BOSTON — SAIIOBS— CBIMPS. 171 bours, with hundreds of coasting schooners, sloops, and fishinir smacks, darting about with tlieir white sails, or at anchor bv dozens in various nooks and coves. Coming up the coast to the north to Boston this is called the inner passage; it is intricate, full of shoals, anr. full of pilots, which make? indeed, the American waters, in spite of their numerous and fine har- r""'!' If^ expensive to their merchantmen. The Mara paid about fifty dollars to her two pilots— two and a half to three aoilars a toot— she drew only ten feet. Our first old fellow (pilot), who had been a man-of-war's man, farmer, captain, storekeeper, and fisherman, having left Ins schooner among the islands outside, rejoins her by the railway to Plymouth, or one of the numerous towns below on X'liO COfliSlJ. But I must trifle no longer, on board ship. We pass the cfFective battery on Castle Island, close to the citv, anchor ""uajr^ "Battery" Wharf, in the cotton-warehouT; Mv SKippeT, the best creature ahve, has got his best coat on ; he cal ates them varmint won't leave him one of his men on board— boarding-house touters who rush on board the moment we touch the wharf, and seize on the men ; pestering them with then- lymg promises-in five minutes, swamp 'em^ and, indeed, off they go (tlie case with all their sliips) the moment the dear little Mara is lashed fast. Seamen are now at a premium ; though, poor devils, for ever the silly victims ot alternate tyranny or cunning. In the Stages it is a rare thing for a sailor to ship a second time with the same captain, or the same ship, even when they have no particular fault to find: what with the water-sido hoardinff-hou.'ie.s^Aymo- erimps and rtieir own oxcossive folly-nay, intermittent madness-it is as hard to man a sh^p this year (1852) in Boston, as it is to man a Queen s ship in England. The same thing exactly goes on at Liverpool ; indexed, the seaports of the two countri/s are getting more like ench other every day, not only as to sailors, but m all the business ul' ovorydiiv life. Boston is really a fim^ city ; her grancieiu- and riches are aa conspicuous m her noble public buildings as in her immense long wharves towering warehouses, and forests of shinpinir which fringe the whole wator-side of the town, on proioctins wharves s.mie of ther- half a mile long, which jut out like the teeth of a comb. The body of the place is almost surrounded by water; as it IS built on a neck of land bonding round from'tiie heights "I rul~i^^\ '^^^^.'^oxbury westward, and ending at Iho bridge «. , ,.~^,~-f ,,, . i^,,^_, ^,., ,^ ^ Hij|„„.j,_ga5,^ ijoaton— thougli oa it.-isirns , i iiO riUsii an island, sweeping navy.yard, completes round by Charleston, Chelsea, and tlie the liarbour on this Pide, while on the III' 172 BIBDS EYE VIEWS. 'Al Boutli it is prolonged opposite in suburb streets, called South Boston, together with the "Common" (a small park -like triangle in the centre, of fifty acres, not so large as our Green Park). This undulating neck is not wanting in requi- site space ; though all behind the town to the north and west is cut off from tb country by a shallow lagoon or inlet, across which long causeways and drawbridges have been constructed, and the railroads to the sou^h and west. These waters are rather a convenience for sloops and barges loaded for the suburbs, Cambridge, Djrchester, and Koxbury, which pass the drawbridges, to supply the environs beyond the tide, for two or three miles, xll this country is rocky, with clean sandy shores. Hills, and nice undulations of the land are everywhere, in and out oi the town. The Capitol, or State- house, stands conspicuous on its hill at the head of the com- mon; and the grand monument looms afar from Bunkei ^ Hill, on the Charleston sid^, which is but a suburb prolonged to East Boston, where the great sea steamers lie, and much of the crowded shipping ; where there is a railroad station, and where several of their chief ship-Luilding yards are established, beyond the tJ. S. dockyard ; out all this can give no idea of what the thing reaUy is. From many elevated spots in and out of the town the whole can be seen at a glance— a glorious panorama. Whether one looks from old Fort Washington, on the hill in South Boston, towards Bunker's Hill, northward, or from the great granite moimment, one looks to the south at the city, the country, and the islands of the bay outside. As a whole, perhaps the richest and most complete view may be had from the gentle hills about Canton ; a village, among others, which stud the frame of hills beyond the water, inside the city, at three or four miles* distance. To the north, on the Cambridge side, and towards Mount Auburn Ceme- tery, the country is more flat. This same Cambridge (wo liuvo everywhere our own old familiar names) is a kind of town of villas and garden-houses, with here and there a street; the whole spreading four or live mik's into the country, almost as far as the cemetery, which lies oeyond it. Here, too, they have their chief university — jilain large buildings, like grammar schools rather tlian Avhat we call universiti(>s (thinking of Oxfonl or Cambridge, or tlie German ones), They may not be the less eflcctive ; but, indeed, ail the states of ISvw England are remarkable for their very nu- merous schools. Boston is the most irregularly built town in America. T was constantly losing myself among her crooked winding streets: this has hj.'pponed nartlv from the conformation of the ground, and the careless waul of any plan, which nuirks every thmg English two hundred years ago, when the i)ilgrhu od South park-like e as our in requi- and west iet, across istructed, raters are i for the liich pass tide, for ith clean land are or State- the com- Bunkei ^ prolonged i much of ition, and tablished, 10 idea of ts in and B, glorious Lugton, on or th ward, e south at side. )lete view a village, the water, the north, rn Ceme- fidge (we a kind of D a street; country, t. Here, buildiiigs, liversities an ones), 1. all the verj nit- icrica. T winding Illation ot' ich marks ic j)ilgrim BUILDINGS— MOEAL LAWS. I73 om sea^l nr """^ *^' ^'''^ ^^^' ^^ ^"^ ^^^ '''^^^^ «ide at wasaXofliiiLf^ pur own narrow ^fm/^rf. which at first kavini a /oo^iJ^^^^^^ ^)' "^'' ^* arespectful distance, and itayng a ^ood wide strand as common property. numb wth-H ^Tr?.^^" ^^^^^^'^«' I am struck by the hZr towSir^'*' ^"-1 t'T ' ^TP^^^ous is the custom- SenioXnn^l?.^'''''^"^^^ ^^^ others-great hotels, street Zt? V7^' Y^T ^ '''^°*' ^* ^^^ ^nd of Court^ musei;^ ' Tremont-temple (just burnt down), hotel, and xijte *^^" reservoir of the Cochituate waterworks behind «e State-house, is very remarkable ; so is thereat no^^^^^^^^^^ the en. win' •''^ T^"^ ^.^^^^^^ ' ""'^'^ *^^« domed roof of stonel.1 T''i '' "" ^''''H''' T^'« ««lid and everlasting frivnf T ^^"^ basement of half the larger buildings and private houses, and strikes the eye in every street so that Ka'nTtf ^^^^^^^^ brickLrk of tlfe &ma^We Scl^I? nn.i ^ ' ^"^ '^"""^ doorframes, pilasters, co -. mcts &c., one is everywhere impressed with an idea of r ches WnW^M^- '^^'T'^^' ^^^ dimensions of the^r puW^^^^ fhTlat'w ^^^^^^^^ ^T ?^V^ '^^ '^'' ^''^^^^ ci£ aW S L ev?d".S^^^^^^ V^'t ''''''' ''"^'^ «"d second-rat! ^ay be saiZff?. '^ P^*-^ *^^^ T^^^'"' '^^^^ '^^^ thing SaJs Llv/ ^ '''^P' ^^ general, though their front plate- glass displays and arrangements are inferior York nr%Plf-f ?''iT-^"'^^°'. ^'^^^^^^' ^'^"^^^^ ^^'« ^^ith New lork or Philadelphia; she is serious Minerva; their more tt: woiifXnHrr'^" ^'^* to give way to the va^^t^ of tnis woUd French frippery, or English pride and gorc^eou^i fciwi^'l and surrounded by hcT own sober st^^mld a New England still clinging in their countless white "ard yillages and weepng willows to the ascetic gl„om and cnish ing of teeth of tJieir nilgrim forefathers in thirva'rof^'^" The Bos. -.nans have lieen, perhaps, the last to Ewim with the uiHvorsal ouTent of light amusements and Euro LT i^ htu , ^^. now "Young America" every vhero f ies th« In vain the municipality forbids smoking in the streets- they «moke everywhere else. Th, elders an'i '^dmfn. .erpst frown on rum and whisky but r.rr/m;../r.v nublL^ Jious-., and dram-shops multiply^ The cCcCrSh^ tliov: and dissenting clergymen, look demure at t -a-part es w^^^^";>r/!r'?"^^*^^»«"« t^-«''t^ anf ti . ''™'"' regular raU. Providencranother to Hv^„^^^ 'i* Balston-street to them, or Ktelburg-raMT^^^^^^^ Great Nor- rence, a branch crlssinTtW^n *'"' J?""*' '^^ *''<' «*• Law- Albany. S inde!r,1I tl °°"w''''™^*'' **>« Hudson at adding every rear to thfr tT f"^ ^"S'^'''' States are takes ^the S fine t^^'werVoA ^ T'l''"''^"''""' ""^ wires stretch alon^ thp^ftlT. , "^y.^fewhaven : galvanic and thence. throKl the 0^1^^^^ "" '" "" t^ei? cities), clown as fa^, I thlS^ n^v as New o,' "'"'' '" ^^f "''■°' ""d immense distances comm,.ni^»f,v '*"?' ' ™ *''''* '" *fse the track of their rauTavswHir *'''? ^.'^ta^eous along all directions, indepIXtnJ^V'"' T'""" ^^'> Union in though they, too^TtlmulSnlv „!?/'"' P™"" 'team-boats, for passongCTsZd goorSin?d Ti""" ''^,'^P'''' t™"^'* there are four great Ztionsw^ "u^- ^^/^ilways. Thus New York and^^he south " "^^ "^ ^^'''"' ™"t^« *« n.inMutps:t7,oT sZr t *'^° ^^'^'^ "'«-- drinks ; iced iatL-^, Vlr\S r sfe TS™ :!' ^"^^' "H "leclinc. It is the fashion now to trwt I !!' f^™ °" *'"• when walking ; there are several T^ ,^ *" "^« '=''<''-""s pastiycooks ^d eonfectbners Zvb ,^''''' '""."^/^ "* '■^'•go else. Tho pastry is ver^ i Vr^„ i'??, ^'^ f<"^ ""'hi^g lliledbv insi'pid French KnbSnTw^^^^ ^^''''' '''"P ^^ much dearer and inferior to oim " 'ce-creams are andt/otnir^utitr^^^^^^^^ lioxbury, Canton, DorJhester ^™.fi If "^accnt villages, C-helsea'andEastBosrn C^^^n'bridfff&c ™Tr\^''"'™'^^ !^.",";.!"'tef .°«- ."" «- road to mS tb. J!^:l'f^A'^''^•out ■" th. n.tor«iuable. ^traggrg'':^;^^^^?:''^'''^^-!'- Mi 178 MOUNT AUBURN — TOMBS. '!*■' V? ■} r'i 4*ff I to it, one sees nothing of Mount Auburn but its own tree to^Ds. It is a young wood, or grove, of llo acres, judiciously laid out ill avenues, M^hich are named after the prevailing trees and slirubs they are cut through; oak, fir, willow, pine, cypress, cedar. Spaces on either side are cleared for the graves and tombs ; a handsome Gothic chapel stands on a gently rising ground in the centre. There are already a good many remarkable tombs and monuments, all of pure white marble down to the smallest tombstone. In these last silent mementos there is generally much good taste ; often a classic elegance and grace ; so, too, in the inscriptions. I observed one, "To our Mother;" another, "My Brother." This indeed carries brevity to obscurity ; but even where a few lines express some departed excellence or present sorrow, they cannot be read a yard off, they are so slightly cut in the white marble. One is more apt to be struck by incongruities. One man, with an immense, expensive, elaborate monument, who died at Home, has his father and mother piously on each side of him, witji very small humble tomb-stones ; this sets one's teeth on edge ; while a Lieutenant Something has a towering obelisk paling the lustre of a Washington's ! Oh ! vanity of vanities ! Thus do the living burlesque the dead, even in their graves, with discordant affectations ; but this is seen all over Europe. Tlie carriages of the *' proprietors" alone are allowed to enter and drive through the avenues. A large board at the porter's lodge displays many other wise and stringent regulations ; among others, it is forbidden to pluck the flowers, " wild or cultivated." The last, however, were in no danger, I should tliink, as I did not see one in any direction. Bcturning, I walked round by Chelsea and the navy-yard, where they have two fine ships on the stocks, and a line-of-battlo guard-ship in ordmarj^ (her complement, a thousand men). The Cumberland frigate lay at the yard leady for sea, but nobody allowed to go on board, from a fear i the men desert- ing ; the approach guarded by a sentinel ; all other parts of the yard perfectly free of access to everybody. WhiJe at Boston I made two excursions— a short one to Lowell (the United States Manchester), famous for its " young lady" operatives in cotton ; another by the way of New Lon- don to Long Island ; a track seldom taken by our tourists. But let me first say a word or two of Lowell, a large, hand- some city, of 25,000 or 30,000 souls, beautifully situated ou theMerrimac River, a rapid, noble stream; a range of pretty l.ill.-. o.... ->-.». -^^^^..^.l i4 fy-. 4 1w. v^.-.'.Uli n-nA mtai- InaiTirr +liomartlvAH ill Jlllin .T.-i wi; i vuiiVl ii,n_r iiix.- i-ixji-vn. t.tti\.s. vticv, ai-iT-iijp^ ,.,.,,,, . .— the bhie lints of more distant mountains. It is impossible to fancy a more picturesq\ie spot. A smaller river here below ta own tree , judiciously i^ailing trees 'illow, pine, red for the stands on a eady a good pure white se last silent i*ten a classic I observed her." This vhere a few sent sorrow, ly cut in the . One man, it, who died each side of is sets one's s a towering h ! vanity of ead, even in is is seen all •s" alone are es. A large ler wise and den to pluck Dwever, were e one in any ?lsea and the e stocks, and mplement, a y for sea, but e men desert )ther parts of short one to )r its " young of New Lon- our tourists. , large, hand- Y situated ou mge of pretty fliiiTYiaAlvfja 111 impossible to »r here below LOWELL — COTTON MILLS. 179 the body of the town joins the Merrimac, and both combined give endless water-power to the cotton factories ; the mill- streams rushing through the town in all directions. There are a great maujr factories, enormous brick buildings of live and six stories : in one I counted 120 windows on a single side. I was shown but one, the Hamiltous. I conclude these spinning hives are all more or less on one plan, and they are indescribable, even if I knew anything about the matter. I was taken to various floors, where the noise of the mules and jennies I found indeed stunning. How do human beings ever get used to it? The young girls smiled at my hasty and somewhat ungallant retreat, putting my hands to my ears. One can hardly judge by such short appearances ; those I saw were of course in their working dresses, their bonnets and green veils hung up. They all looked very pale, nor did I happen to see one I should iave called handsome, or a fine girl, though no doubt there is the usual proportion of personal beauty. The hour of dinner w^as scarcely over ; I met some of them in the streets going to work in groups, all with a kind of young lady air, or as if tradesmen's daughters well oflP, not that their dresses were particularly neat, but the bonnet and veil, and their carriage, impressed me as some- thing new in these Now World fair operatives. It was, how- ever, gratifying ; all bear testimony to their modest demea- nour. But what an odd thing, that cannot surely last, a whole town full of young girls, under the control of nobody in par- ticular, boarding together here and there, some wdth their parents, some alone. They read a good deal, I'm told, at their leisure hours, but chiefly trashy novels ; and own in America is so full of daguerreotype-portrait artiL , doctors, and doctor-dentists. Theatres, concerts, and evening lectures at the town hall, and others, tell tlieir own story. Just no>v' there is a slackness in the trade, and a good many are on reduced work, or wages (two to three dollars a week), and many unemployed. If I can judge b^ the specimens I saw here, and in the Boston shops, of their cottons and tlieir printing, it struck me as extremely inferior to ours ; coarser, and old or tasteless patterns ; but their chief aim, I think, is to undersell us in foreign markets where the f|uality and taste is not appre- ciated. Without their tarifi, every factory in the States would be shut up in a day. Strange they should so little understand their dearest interests! However, hero is an •'Honourable" Mr. Horace Mann (what an antithesis to Walpole's), who speechifies to these poor girls at the town hall to prove tliat England is to be beaten in cotton fabrics : and every now and then their Magnus Apollo, Mr. Secretary AW'bster, comes among them for the same purpose. All n2 I'i 180 SITUATION OF THE TOWN. ,V'''..> chaff; but it is mixed with sly hits at our iuequaUties, anoma- lies, and distresses, and everlasting puffing of Columbia — apropos of anything and nothing — always acceptable. As th'C streets are wide, and the numerous factories stand- ing in extensive grounds, the town spreads to a great extent, with the usual numbers of churches, chapels, halls, hotels, hospitals, colleges, free-schools, a great museum, a theatre, and amphitheatre — the tow. i is on a plain, so that coming by the railway, whose depot was partly over a mill-race, it is not easy to form a good idea of the general features of the place. To this end I crossed the smaller river, from the west, to the nearest hills, on the south, on the Boston road, where a reservoir crowns their crest ; about a mile beyond the sub- urbs. Here I looked down on the rivers, tlie tow^n, and the mountains, fading in the distance ; the day bright, the ilying shadows of the clouds gave a richness to the soft colours of the infinitely varied tints, makiuj, the picture exquisite. How pure the health-breathing pleasure of the hills ! Art and the ingenuity of man soon tires, even in their noblest flights ; the mind looks back over the earth, to Home, Athens, Thebes, or to single boasted efforts, descending from the Pyramids to the Colosseum, to the Walhalla, and modern art academies ; even down to an art-union : — are they admi- rable ? Yes, but they are tiresome, and we are tired of them long before we grow old. Our last inimitable Exhibition — • the World's Fair, did but worry and fatigue us at last ; pall on the sense, hurt the eyes, confuse the senses — while simple nature here and everywhere in this beautiful world — the woods, the rivers, and the fields, the hills and dales, lit and embellished by the glorious heavens above, refresh for ever, regale, instruct, delight ; or watch the setting orb of day, till the blue heavens shine in the glorious galaxy of other worlds, mysterious ; lifting the soul to ecstasy and silent prayer un- speakable in gratitude to God. Long I sat on this hill-side, but not till night, as it was necessary to leturn by the train to Boston. A covered bridge crosses the Merrimac as it rushes by the town in a series of rapids. Several prett}^ villas and cottages are sprinkled along its banks. Nownere in the States have I been so tempted to envy people their suburban retreats as here among their cotton-mills. At the station I regaled myself with a slice of apple-pie, at four cents, and by the next train returned to Boston, very glad to have seen and formed a true idea of Lowell and its lactones ; yet the real present history of the place remains to be told — by some inhabitant. As the Americans arc even more active than we are in England, more restless, equally curious, nobody can complain ities, anoma- Columbia — ible. tories stand- ^reat extent, balls, hotels, n, a theatre, -t coming by- ace, it is not of the place, west, to the id, where a md the sub- ►wn, and the t, the ilying ft colours of e exquisite. hills ! Art heir noblest , to lionie, ending from and modern they admi- red of them Exhibition — • t last ; pall vhile simple world — the ales, lit and jsh for ever, ) of day, till ther worlds, prayer un- lit, as it was ^ered bridge a scries of inkled along > tempted to imong their ipple-pie, at Boston, very well and its 3 remains to I we are in an complain START FOE LONG ISLAND. 181 of want of facilities for travelling all over the Union. Com- forts are out of the question ) but the expense is very mode- rate, and the rough elbowing in a crowd is of no consequence to men. Nothing, indeed, is seriously annoying to persona not used to it, except the spitting everywhere in the cars, or in the steamers— no spot is sacred. Their dirty bank-notes, everywhere at a discount, often refused, often good for nothing (the distant bank broke), was another annoyance not to be laughed at. Returned to Boston, I started for Long Island, by the only way, of Providence and JN^cw London, on the coast opposite, on the Sound. I Avas rather late at the " depot" (station), at the foot of the common, and the bank-note I thought a good one was at once perer tptorilyrejected. Eeasons were superfluous. They took my sovereign— sovereigns are respected ; fare to Providence, forty miles, 5s. 3d. I never could understand the Boston currency (a dollar and a quarter) —giving me more dirty ringed notes in change. In vain I begged \ ^v silver ; it is more scarce than gold. We so 11 shot across the viaduct over tlie inner waters, and through a picturesque, stony, woody country, full of villages and farms, small lakes and streams, and reach Providence in an hour and a half. It is a considerable city, at the head of a deep inlet of the sea. Coasting vessels come up to it, and formerly the large New York steamers ; but since the rail- road has been continued fifty miles farther along the coast to Stpnmgton, they meet the cars there; avoiding so much of this dangerous coast of shoals, rivers, rocks, and rough seas. A carriage at the station obligingly takes me (paying for the same) to the City Hotel, where I dined, and proceeded on by a new set of cars. In a two hours' run we find ourselves at the very AAater's edge at the terminus at Stonington, close beside the fine steamer Vanderbilt. She started for New York at eight in the evening, the wind and waves exceedingly rough, the prospect of a tossing in the tumultuous sound- where I was once very n jar lost— not at all inviting, so I went to the nearest small railway tavern for the night; besides, these steamers, though they run down the Avhole length of Long Island, stop at'none of its towns. My only chance here was by a small steamer to New London, not far off (fifteen miles), and thence across in another steamer to Greenport. But the moment you quit the great highways, and the great flock of travellers in the States, facihties cease, oppositions cease, and the one boat or one stage take a won- drous latitude iti time and tyranny. „^_„.i ... .. ,,,, T tij.t.t»:,-^, cilviaviiij lulucu. niLU fUiiSO- qucnce by the railway— a few smaU board houses, graced by an immense an-^ handsome hotel, built perhaps originally for ^J %. '^' «>^ ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) '^o 1.0 I.I 1.25 M M 2.0 14 IIIM.6 ^J^.^ Photographic Sciences Corporation fv ^ ^ ^^ ¥^ k 'ii^^A^^ \ ^ ^Zii^ 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WOKTIR,N Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4S03 z if' Vf'' -i'f 182 BAILWAY TO 8T0NINGT0N. sea-batliing people in the season. The whole place is in a transition state. In one short year hence it will be, no douht, a large town, if the railway stops short here (and it is not so easy to get it across these rivers and coast estuaries), and the steamers continue to meet it. The weather was very cold, and the stove verj"- comfort- able, as I sat in a neat little parlour with the landlady and her lady friends. Here I saw a most beautiful and singular flowering tropical plant, with glossy leaves ; she oalled it the wax-plant. Its coroneted head almost touched the ceiling. " O, lie, what the ignorance is !" I must study botany. I embarked the next morning on board the little steamer Chic- copee, on her arrival from, and immediate return to, New London. It blew hard, though fine, and our jiassage was excessively severe : at one moment she i)itched so heavily as ' ' ' half ,^, j,.. long of this New London river Thames. up, cast Happify we got round, and out 6f this villanous sound, which seems to set its face constantly against my floating on its bosom. "S^c pass Fort Washington, a beautiful battery, set prettily in its green glacis, commanding the river ; and are soon fast at the town \Nharf, amidst innumerable ships, schooners, and sloops. New London partakes of the features of all the New Eng- land towns, except at the water-side ; a mixture of town and country — churches, chapels, halls, and villas standing in their own ample grounds, or with plenty of elbov/-room and ornamental weeping willows, in wide rocky or sandy, or ill- paved streets. Some ricli fellow is building a most gloriously costly and fantastic house, in stone, and his neighbour builds just such another near him, in wood • the extravagance of expense is laughed at ; their wlu'lers have had good catches of flsh, or some otlier spec! They are great Soutli Sea whalers here- abouts— Portsmouth, Bedford, Newport, Sagg Harbour, Mystic, Fall liive^-, &c., but their spirit of adventure and flne ships are everywhere. This year, however, they hear of losses, wrecks, no fish, or half cargoes. All these snuill States and towns are the stron^l^old of fanaticism and teetotal ism, but it is, as at Boston, forced to give way before the rising geiioration, which here, in New liondon, is extremely fast and noisy. They hove as yet no theatre, but make a certain " Ahor J fall" do duty. A stroll- ing company of actors are at the ('ity Hotel, where I took .1> L-..>.r/>n iiimi 1 4/-k1in/l D f . fill 1) irr<>l>n.l ) I O - 'I lere waa a c usual vile ace onccntration of smoking and chewing, with the ouipanimc] ' Mits ; more intense and oflensivo than KEW LONDON — ON THAMES ! 183 place is in a be, no douht, id it is not so ries}, and the \revy comfort- landlady and and singular ) called it the d the ceiling. y botany. I steamer Chic- turn to, New passage M'as so heavily as , though half [ giving it up, nt to tlie east RC got round, to set its face iVc pass Fort in its green t at the town d sloops, he New Eng- e of town and I standing in »ovv-room and sandy, or ill- isly costly and lilds just such of expense is lies of fish, or whalers here- igg Harbour, nturc and fine hear of losses, stron^l^old of ton, forced to hero, in New liove as yet no uty. A stroll- i, Mhere I took nil niTCCftblC; wing, with tlic I oU'ensive than I Jiad yet seen any\^-here. The Hall, in spite of being half filled by the fair sex, was no exception. During the perform- ance the young men stood up, or lay at full length, or play- fully wrestled on the benches, making all sorts of noises. In vam the strolling manager begged for silence and a little decency, under the threat of leaving off; quite unsupported by the more staid and decorous part of the audience, which bore it all, as if quite used to this sort of licence. At all these smaller towns one sees how a perfect equality works— there are no gentry, nor any people ; though plenty of tolerably poor persons getting a precarious living. You sit at table vith working people (putting a coat on); nobody is a servant or a nauper ; m short, anybody and everybody who can pay for their dinner; anybody walks into any sitting-room, often with their hats on. In the same way in the Hall, there was no sort of distinction— hardly a proper deference to the women ; they, indeed, kept at a respectful distar-^e from th') greater noise and abominations of tobacco. These strollers only ventured on farces— pretty broad ones. The funniest feUow, Adams, played a favourite slang cha- racter— a real go-a-head down-easter. These " critturs" by prescription are always dressed in a red head of long hair (like the French clowns), long-tailed coat, very short trousers, and sliocking bad hat. There was a dance, and a funny song, of course (with his pretty wife), not without humour ; the burden of which ran ; JF(|l. And will you love me now as then ? Mfjn. Shouldn't wonder, shouldn't wonder ! Il'ij'c. What if I flirt with other men ? Man. No, by thunder — no, by thunder I (Set, and change sMch.) This met with uproarious applause. The one fiddler to this performsmce, by the same token, played most vilely out of tune. The Mcather Avas dreadful- blowing, snowing, and raining. I had a fixed purpose in goiuji o Long Island ; and for days no steamer ventured out, nor is the passage regular; so I embarked on board a small sloop witii tburtecn others, ten of whom had at least exercised half a dozen trades by turns. One young fellow was now clerk to a citizen Irisli itinerant auctioneer, who had been captain of a coaster, farmer, soldier, joiner, and horse-dealer ! Two youths, with their young wives and fowling-pieces, were on a frolic, going over to Plum Island " a-gunning, ' to shoot rabbits. ThcHOund is full of rocky islands, with perhaps one hut and family, or none. We^boat over in the teeth of a gale of wind and very rough sea. Wo were, iiowcver, safe enough, for these boat: swim like ducks, and are handled by two or three men (including i m it-, ,.« 184 8AGG HAHBOUE. .'i' ^ ' ' ••*• the captain; tliis the Harriet, Captaia Harris), with their im- mense sails, in the most masterly manner; but nothing should tempt a traveller to trust the American coast late in the autumn, or too early in the spring. I forgot to mention, that among other handy contrivances I was struck by the way the fishmongers keep their fish alive in floating safes at the wharves ; fishing them up when wanted. Not far off eight men were moving a large frame house on roUers : and another, at the foot of High-atreet, was breaking up and clearing away, with a vigour and promptituae never seen in Europe. Long Island, which is more than a hundred i lies in length, and ten to fifteen wide, is most singularly formed at its north- eastern end : it encloses a vast deep bay, in shape something like the claws of a lobster, fuU of small islands. Nothing can be imagined more happily contrived for the purposes of shelter, fishing, and intercommunication. We ran into Greenport, a small town on the inner claw, to which there is a railroad from New York (Brooklyn) direct (carried out, as usual, to the water's edge), along the centre of the islanji ; to which I have alluded early in my tour. It is fuU of towns, villages, and farms. The inhabitants are a good many shades more settled, quiet, and primitive than their fellow New Yorkers across the eadt river; which divides them. Generally, this fine island is highly cultivated ; and they have every facility by land and water to the New York market for all their surplus grain and cattle. It blew and rained go hard that we were forced to remain at the Avooden wharf all night, leaving our young gunners and their better halves at the Picconic Hotel, where I slept, nothing loth, tired of the day's tossing. By daylight we were ofi* again, to beat up imder {shelter Island, to oagg Harbour, fifteen miles farther up ; it being the head of my lobster. All these towns and villages have a close resemblance, not only in New England but all over the States. The business street or streets next the an harves, of brick houses, the rest of the town straggling far, in wide streets, unpaved, and sJiaded by the weeping willow ; the houses large and handsome, in frame, boarded and painted white, \\ith green Venetian shutters, most of them standing in their own small gardens and grounds, surrounded by neat wooden palings ; several churches and chapels, mostly wooden, spires and all, and of large dimensions. The largest hero ia remarkably handsome, most elaborate in ornament, graceful, and in good taste. In its yard, now grown old and venerable ; as much so as such thincs are annarentlv in England, not searchimr bevond two hundred years, I looked in vain for the grave of one once near and dear to me ; but six-aud-thirty years is a fearful time to LONG ISLAND. ith their im- tbing should late in the aention, that the way the jafes at the far off eight and another, earing away, 'ope. es in length, at its north- )e something is. Nothing purposes of mer claw, to klyn) direct 5 the centre ny tour. It bitants are a imitive than r^hich divides i ; and they ifork market ed to remain gunners and lere I slept, ight we were gg Harbour, lobster, tnblance, not rhe business s, the rest of , and siiaded landsomo, in en Venetian nail gardens es ; several a all, and of y handsome, d taste. In h so as sucli bovond two DO once near urful time la 185 look back on. Children of that day I see about the streets no w middle-aged people ; the high-blooded youth, and beauty, and manhood, who were aU in all, then, the cream of the community, now, hobbbng about in old age, or long since silent beneath mv feet-as I sat on one of the tombstones ; the bright sun had reached the meridian as I looked to heaven m bitterness of soul— left almost alone in the world ! I had need of all my good spirits and active rude health to bear up agamst saddening thoughts. I murmured to myself. Can It be ! and passing hke a summer's cLud"— it comes to this! A good large school, full of boys and girls, were ,iu8t let out, and skipped joyously along the road by me, wondering who that strange old man could be ! for here faces are famiUar ; all are known more or less to each other. I knocked at the dooi of a very old man, still alive and hearty, but his memory was gone. A worthy old man ! he had been a Iriend— had borne him to his tomb, helped to cover him up, but the spot was already overgrown for a generation with .lumper ; he could not say. • Singular fate ! And I like Old Mortality, find myself, more than once, wandering over the earth to chisel a memento on the tombstone of those I would not have forgot+en !-a man of rank and family— an elegant scholar- a wit- -most accomplished— of noble form— of sweet- est disposition— O si sic omnia ! Sadly disappointed, I next day took passage by the steamer which phcs to Greenport ; thence by another, return to New liondon, and so back, as I came, to Boston. Sagg Harbour is charmingly situated in a gently undula- tmg country, with pleasant walks and rides about it ; the views from the water-side over its placid waters delightful. Like most of these seaport towns, it is engaged in the whale fishery, now rather on the decHne (as it was over-done by numbers ; at one time there were 700 sail in the Pacific). It is a ship-building port, too. I saw two or three good large ships on the stocks, with some activity in their yards, and among their coasting trade and fishi tig-smacks at the water- side. An attempt had been lately made at cotton-factories, in emulation (encouraged b^ the tariff) of the New England ones. A large brick factory was built, but is shut up ; and so much the better. In a rural, comfortable community like this, they are much better without steam-engines, smoke, and sickly operatives. I forgot to say, in the evening, in the Higli-street, I saw the Irish citizen auctioneer hard at work Avith Ins hammer knocking down lots— of wo//oy/.v; and the quondam sea cap- ~*.'5 --'J e' "'■■•- 'J «.Jixi viixiQCiii-ij' iis ilis cicrK ana assistant. My cabin was taken on board a noblo ship, the North I 186 A BETE08PECTIVE GLANCE. »» •, America, a regular liner of Train and Co.'s, of fifteen Kundred tons. I preferred returning home in a sailing vessel, tliougli one of the lines of Liverpool steam mail packets call here and at Halifax, to and from New York, every two weeks ; but I cannot say that I like steamers of any description. The fires, the trembling motion, and the crowds in the cabin saloon, would in themselves be tome srificient reasons, where the difference of time is immaterial ; some five or six days longer only, crossmg from America ; as westerly winds most prevail, and passages are sometimes made in sixteen days, frequently in twenty ; besides that, it is but half the expense ; with a better cabm, and very nearly as goo(?a table. In other real comforts, too, there is no comparison. In these vessels, as in the steamers, the cabins are fitted up in a luxurious profusion of niahogany, bird's eye satin maple, gilding, mirrors, and shining brass, quite regardless of expense— more than enough to satisfy the most fastidious ; indeed, I often long for less shinm^ and ornament— a little plain wbite paneling would be a relief— for all ornament soon palls upon the sense, like a man's own pictures aAd frames, or his gilt velvet paperings, or anythmg that is his. I find myseli' leaving Joston without being able to notice many interesting details of the rapid changes which are taking place, and alter the face of so many things from year to year. I have said nothing of her citizens, but we all know that m manners, thought, and customs, they are somewhat more English than in any other State in the Union ; they have less of that drawl one hears in Philadelphia and New York, though quite as many Cockneyisms as we laugh at in our Londoner's expressions, with some supposed advances on our less ambitious discourse, such as calling the cock a "rooster, and the boys '* shyir" a rock " at each other instead of a stone, which they " didn't ought to do" when they are coming " to home" from school. But it is certain, that whatever one remarks in America as odd in expression or in customs, may bo traced to ourselves, by simply looking back a few years, even no farther than the middle o^ last century. What is it all but the dewdrop on the lion's mane ! How very much one sees everywhere over this grand country to admire ! If it were alone Boston, well may they call her the Granite City, the Athens of their proud llepublic, seated at the head of licr fine bay of fifty miles extent, full of islands ; an archipelago in itself^ stretching to Cape Anne, and com- prising on these circling rich cultivated shores fiftv busy thriving towns and villages, whose wliite-shingled roofs shine ;« fi^n Him- and tell of comfort and nlenty : while these their waters are covered by; the milk-white sails of their coasters and fishing-smacks, pilot-boats and merchantmen. Not in DEPAETUBE FOR ENGLAND. 187 ;een hundred jssel, tliougli 3all here and reeks ; but I The fires, the )on, would in difference of >nly, crossing and passages jr in t\Yenty ; better cabin, comforts, too, he steamers, )f mahogany, [lining brass, to satisfy the shining and be a relief — 1 a man's own I, or anything able to notice ich are taking year to year. . know that in newhat more they have less [ New York, igh at in our vances on our k a "rooster," ead of a stone, re coming " to whatever one istoms, may bo sw years, even i mane ! How and country to ey call her the iblic, seated at fidl of islands ; nue, and com- >re8 fiftv busy led roofs shine bile these their F their coasters ;men. Not in vain do these shores swarm with great varieties of fish ; these riches are diffused around. But my particular policeman (the printer's devil) tells me civilly to move on and leave this pleasing scene behind me ; or would I dwell here, or in Cobb's Hole, or Tarpauline Cove, or in Grey's Head, among the curious pure descendants of the Indians (below the cycle of Cape Cod). But we are hauling off" from the wharf to prevent the crew from leaving us the captain has been at so much pains, expense, and trouble in getting by the rail last night from New York ; for not a man is to be had here for love or money. The Cumber- land frigate had much ado to get away, fortv men short of complement. Yes, we are to part, O gentle reader ! Jud^e how sorry I am, since I am not at all afraid of your criticisms. What should you know of Cobb's Hole, or Martha's Vineyard P where the grapes, (if any at all) are not half so fine as the scuppernong of which they make wine in Georgia and Ala- bama, as this coast is too cold and foggy nine months of the year for vineyards, though ten degrees south of England. But, ere I cease, let me say a word to those who have been at all amused, or tried to trace me in my unconnected wander- ings, without order or sequence. Begging [pardon is, I fear, of little use for the meagreness of ray account of places abruptly left, while half I have to say is thrust in as I go on board some steamer on the move, as a man does forgotten essentials into his carpet-bag — higgledy piggledy. Indeed, I feel that, wliatever humour my readers are in, I myself am extremely dissatisfied, when I look back at my journeyman's bungling work, to find myself, i7wila Minerva, cutting up what I intended for a fine enduring American pine-tree into mere Indian choompa— chips, only to light (I hope) other people's fires by. In a word, travels should never be hacked, cribbed, cabined, and conimed in this way to make one small cheap volume. Boston bay and harbour is full of steam tugs, strong, effec- tive boats. Their plan is to get lashed fast out of sight under the counter of these great ships, Ibrming one body, and so running them out beyond the nearest islands, to Uig roads seven miles below, near the lighthouse, where they lie sheltered from east winds, and can make sail to sea Avhen they please. We were towed down in this way (better than on our more clumsy plan, at the end of a long hawser), the day most unpropitious, blowinor from the east, and raining. AVc were taken to this spot, still in sight of Boston, where we .1 J 1 1 1 f> 11 ••!. 1 . — .. nurinrwo '-^i •-•Hi T i'U'i tilt: ii i -1.4- . \,..i. T^l. ;ii^ ; uuL j^ fioTamc pro- posc ct Dieio disposc—iXiQXQ we lay for a whole week m a violent east gale f \'i h; ,'•1 fc ,4, •* 4." 188 DETAINED BY A GALE. We are aucliored near Hull and Spectacle Island, sur- rounded by a fleet of vessels ke})t prisoners in the same way bv a fierce eastern gale. This Kull consists of a house or two, and a great Hotel, full of company in the hot season, who come hei-e to bathe and enjoy the sea-breezes, as they do at Nahant, another rocky, wild island it is the fashion to make themselves merry at. ^^ x> The Boston lighthouse is outside of us some three or tour miles ; and the Cumberland frigate, detained like ourselves. Wo are about twenty at the cabin table, a pleasant mixture of Bostonians, Germans, EngHsh, and Irish, presided over by our good Captain Dunbar, who is taking his wife and littie girl with him to see England. This is a very everyday aff'air ; but I was surprised to find the steerage so full (htty) of poor people going home again ; one woman, absolutely a pauper, going back to her parish! the rest returning either unlucky or disappointed ; with a few to visit their friends and relations, after many years' absence. As may be imagined, we were not a little annoyed and im- patient at ftiis awkward gale, instead of being thankful and grateful that it had not caught us outside, bo the days wore wearily away, getting a httle acquainted with each other. After pjl, quite as well off as if we had come down to this Hull boarding-house hotel on a part v of pleasure, with very likely a better table, and quite as much comfort and exercise ; for most of these islands are as bare as one's hand ; without a tree, or a ride, or walk in any direction, beyond the circum- scribed beach: the passage steamers bringing them their daily food and their daily papers from Boston. Our particular tug'(belon v--, ----- being coppered, and the bottom not at aU clean, as the captain fouud out when some of his own countrymen (I thought) rather Island, sur- le same way a house or hot season, 3, as they do e fashion to three or four e ourselves, sant mixture ided over by dfe and little ry everyday so full (fifty) absolutely a iirning eitlier r friends and •yed and jm- thankful and he days wore each other. down to this re, with very and exercise ; d ; without a i the circum- r them their )ur particular same for us, to enliven lis 't boat, with a bave Ijanished dongside with England, ho ! , we dance on but the shoal rectly in our aptain i ;ld us irecaution and and thirteen lately opposed inr\ xwit-.limif, V--"-, •• — - as the captain lought) rather HOME — BY LIVEEPOOL. 189 beat us as we forced our passage up Channel between the Welsh and Wicklow mountains. This betrayed a curious economy, no doubt wise, where everything is so ample and complete on board these ships. They meant to have her cop- pered at Liverpool, at a less expense than at Boston ! This is a elieerful feature in our increasing intercourse I was glad to hear of. Now that it is too late, many amusing things and incidents on our passage occur to me ; among oth&rs the extreme politeness of our sable steward. Ginger George, who would alwiU'S insist (as he showed his ivories and rolled his eyes) on handing the dishes, or a clean plate, with a flourish — even when we had a difiiculty in keeping our plates on the table at all, or when he himself could hardly keep his feet— and who, when more serene, occasionally punched the head of a stupid Liverpool cabin waiter, who was not shai'p enough. We had milk m quantities the whole way, kept admirably in the ice- house, as were all our joints, chickens, and fish. But nothing so pleasantly gets rid of eiinni on board ship as gentle flirta- tions, which never fail to be more or less amusing, both to ])erformers and lookers-on. But mum ! it is a serious matter for some noA/el in three volumes. Like my last sea-captain, Dunbar was as easy as a glove ; no swearing, no noise, no complaints ; and though we had but thirty men, this immense ship was inimitably sailed and manoeuvred ; not only many of the mt^n, but his two mates were Englishmen, freshly turned citizens of America. We land joyously at Liverpool in twenty-seven days. After all, how beautiful is our land compared with what I have left. Nearly a month, indeed, had elapsed, but in the middle of May h rdly a leaf w^as to be seen on the trees, or verdure anywhere on the New England shores ; while here, though a particularly cold season, the w hole country is one mass of beauteous foliage, to say nothing of our exuberant gardens, sweet flowers, and exquisite lawns and parks— but all sensations are enhanced by contrast ; long rough ocean passages make all lands delightful, once safe from the mono- tony and tedium of the sea. THE END. l;t.. ! \ ■\.\ lOKDON: Si.TTX.1. Xyj) DBWABSS, PBINTBBS, CHINBOS STBXET, COYENl" GABDEN. ;;'! IIET,