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W ■ ■ ■VfAJW.Iiv

• ' I'

INCIDENTS

CONXEOTID WITH

OTTAWA CITY

AND VICINITY.

CHAS. POPE

-y

OTTAWA : ^
PRINTED BY HUNTER, ROSE A COMPANY.

1868.

mmmm^

iiwii) vmm

PEEPACE.

Seme of the following pages recentl^^ appeared
in the columns of the Ottawa Times ; and in re-
producing them in the present re\'ised form, the
writer is but fulfilHng his promise to many of the
old inhabitants who naturally cherish, with a
lively interest, reminiscences of the past.

Ottawa, 14th August, 1868.

■«

"Pc?e, e ,

CONTENTS.

PAGE.

Bridges and General Items 5

The Shiners 13

Amusements and Pastimes 18

Ottawa the Capital 22

INCIDENTS

CONNECTED WITH

CITY OF OTTAWA.

ARTICLE I.

BEIDGES AND GENEEAL ITEMS.

^^^HEllE are interesting incidents connected
"^- with almost every village, town and city,
which, although not generally known,
are nevertheless worth recording ; and it
is with this view that the writer has
placed himself in communication with some of
the oldest inhabitants of Ottawa, who have from
memory, kindly enabled him to lay the following
before the reader. At a later period some very
amusing anecdotes may be given; but as the
parties concerned are still living, it would not be
considered wise to have all the play to ourselves.
In the meantime, the first bridge over the Ottawa
may occupy our attention, and whose modus
operandi will serve to recall to mind the perse-
vering spider alluded to in history. It appears

INCIDENTS.

that until the autumn of 1826 the present capital
was a wilderness, when Lord Dalhousie, Colonel
Danford, Colonel By, and several other gentlemen
arrived at Hull for the purpose of deliberating
on the proposed construction of the Rideau Canal.
They assembled on a rock near the northerly
end of the present Union Suspension Bridge,
with the view of considering the propriety of
first constructing a bridge over the Ottawa,
which would facilitate operations on the Canal.
They then retired to the house of Squire Phile-
mon Wright, and finally came to the conclusion
to commence the bridge immediately. Two days
afterwards operations were begun — carpenters,
masons, and quarry men being hired on the spot.
The centres for the first arch nearest Hull were
soon put up, and in a few weeks the rubble stone
arch was completed ; but on taking out the cen-
tres the whole arch gave way and fell. Nothmg
daunted, however, another attempt was made,
and with the experience of the past, centres were
built and the arch constructed in the same lo-
cality. The arch was composed of dry hammered
stone, without mortar, and it remained perfect
after the removal of the centres. The second
arch was built by Philemon Wright and Sons,
under contract : thus the workmen were enabled
to commence building the bridge over the main
channel — a very difficult task in those days.

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BRIDGES AND GENERAL ITEMS. 7

In order to obtain communication with the op-
posite bank, Captain Asterbrooks, of the Artillery,
took one of the brass cannon down to the rocks
near where the end of the bridge would naturally
be, so as to fire off a rope across the channel —
240 feet wide — to Chaudiere Island. For the
first trial a half inch rope was used ; but the force
of the powder cut it. The experiment was re-
peated, but with the same result. It w^as then
suggested by one of the workmen to try an inch
rope, which was approved, and on its being car-
ried out was found successful ; for it was landed
a hundred feet on the island. Having secured
it at both ends, the workmen were enabled to
haul over larger ones.

A trestle ten feet high was then erected on
each side of the channel, and two ropes stretched
across over the tops of these trestles, and fastened
at each end to the rocks ; the ropes were allowed
to be slack in order to have greater strength,

The next ttep was to have a foot passage to
allow the workmen to communicate w4th each
other ; and with this object the ropes were placed
four feet apart, and properly planked over. A
rope hand-rail on each side, made the crossing
perfectly easy. Chains w^ere then placed across
over trestles in a similar manner, and planked on
the top, until the planking from each shore
reached within ten feet of joining in the middle,

»• iiiiHlippii (li|,-

INCIDENTS.

when the chains broke and precipitated the
workmen and tools into the channel. Three
men were drowned, and the others swam ashore.
This checked lurther progress for a short time.
A scow, about one hmidred feet long and thirty
feet wide, was then bnilt, and anchored to a point
of rock where the bridge was to be located.
Stronger trestles, made of heavy timber, were
erected, and two eight-inch cables procured and
laid across the channel over these trestles, and
properly secured to the rocks at each end. Then
the building of a wooden bridge was commenced,
in accordance with a plan approved by Colonel
By. The work progressed very favorably, and
with the assi&tance of screw-jacks, placed on the
scow below it, was kept up to its proper level.
In the course of the summer the bridge was
brought nearly to completion, when the preva-
lence of a gale caused the whole structure to turn
over up stream, against the wind. The two
cables, before mentioned, held it until they were
chopped off with axes, notwithstanding the
great force of the current ; and thus " the whole
affair moved majestically down the stream"
as far as the present entrance of the Rideau
Canal. This caused, of course, another delay.
It is related of Mr. Drummond, the chief work-
man, that he shed tears at this milucky event.
The next move was to build another bridge on

'"¥

BRIDGES AND GENERAL ITEMS.

i/,

the same plan. On this occasion two large chains
were employed, made of one and three quarter
inch round iron, in links of ten inches long,
which were put over the trestles, and in the
same place that the rope cables were removed
from, having been secured like the former to the
rocks on each side of the channel. The mode of
constructing this work was similar to the pre-
ceding, save that the scow below \n as disx)ensed
with, as the chains were sufliciently strong to
support the whole fabric.

After a delay of some months, the bridge was
finally completed, and stood the travel for about
12 years, when it too followed in the wake of its
predecessors The channel being once more left
without a span, communication was had by
means of ferriage until 1843, when the present
magnificent structure was commenced, which is
now an ornament to the capital.

A word or two about Pooley's Bridge, and we
are done with bridge building. In 1827, Lieut.
Pooley was ordered by Colonel By to build a
bridge over what is ^ namonly called the "gully,"
w^hich intersects the oad leading from the Sus-
pension Bridge to the city. It was wholly built
and covered wdth round timber, and was so
unique in its ai)pearance, that on seeing it the
Colonel oxclaimed : "Well ! well ! we must chris-
ten that thing Pooley's Bridge." It is therefore

INCIDENTS.

unnecessary to say that the present structure
built on the same site bears the name of "Pooley's
Bridge."

Having thus far treated of engineering matters,
the reader would, d ^ubtless, prefer a change ;
consequently an anecdote may not be out of
place.

Among the contractors for the works on the
canal alluded to was an American, named Find-
land, who was to have built a lock and dam at
Hogsback ; but owing to some misunderstanding
the contract was not completed. Determined to
have satisfaction from Colonel By, ne shortly
afterwards invested in a span of horses and
handsome sleigh, which were procured in the
States. On the vehicle were painted a spread
eagle and lion, the beak of the former being in
the eyes of the latter. It is said the Colonel sur-
vived this manifestation of ire on the part of the
discomfited contractor.

It must not be sui)posed that our pioneerr were
without their seasons of ewjoyment, for in 1830
Colon tl By gave a ball, on which occasion an ox
was properly prepared and roasted ivliole. It
was then placed in r. lield in a standing posture,
and when the dance and song had ceased the
guests proceeded to study its anatomy. This
jubilee was probably the celebration of the com-
pletion of the first eight locks of the canal.

:.-,. i

BRIDGES AND GENERAL 7TEMS.

The Scotch are entitled to the palm for having
erected the first church, which was called St.
Andrew's, and is situated on "Wellington Street.
The Reverend John Cruikshank was the first
who preached from its pulpit. The building har
since been enlarged.

The first school was built in 1832 by Mr. Per-
kins, on his own property. The teacher was a
Miss Knapp, an American, who commenced with
twenty pupils. This school-room was subse-
quently Hoed as the court house for trying small
cases, the Commissioners being Messrs. Fisher
and O'Connor; Dr. Christie was clerk of the
court, and was also the first medical gentleman
who established himself in Ottawa.

The first steamboat that arrived at Ottawa was
called the Union, and was built at Hawkesbury
in the winter of 1821 and 1822, for the purpose
of conveying the supplies for the canal. Speed
in those days was somewhat different from what
it is now, as the reader will perceive on being
told that two trips per week between Ottawa
and Hawkesbury were all that could be had.
This vessel was commanded by Captain Grant,
who superintended her construction, and who
also inspected the building of the first steamer
that ran from Du Chene Lake to the Chats
Kapids.

As regards the fourth estate, it appears the first

"HPilP'

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I '

INCIDENTS.

newspaper, the Bytown Gazette, was i)ublished
by James Johnston, in the house at present occu-
pied by "Wm. Letimer, shoemaker, on the corner
of Wellington and Bank ptreets. On the easterly
gable of this building, and therefore looking in
the direction of the Public Buildings, may be seen
a representation of a pair of spectacles. The
only reason assigned for this rather uncommon
architectural appendage is, that the individual
who placed them there was "very eccentric."

ARTICLE 11.

- THE SHINERS.

;OIl some years after the completion of the
Rideau Canal the inhabitants were troub-
led with a class of people in their midst
known by the eni)honious soubriquet of
" Shiners," better understood at the pres-
ent day as roz^^^ees. :> - ^^

A feud sprang uj) between some Irishmen and
Canadians, and the flame thus kindled w^-s soon
fanned into alarming proportions; so much so
that Captain Baker, a retired artillery officer,
and chief magistrate at the time, was compelled
to order the people to arm and patrol the streets.
The duties of the Captain were certainly not of
an envious character, for on him mainly rested
the responsibility of quelling it by military in-
terference, or tempering matters in such a way
as to allow the ill feeling to die out quietly. The
course he adopted was one of prudence ; and his
persuasive arguments did more towards the ac-
comphshment of the desired end than a volley of
bullets.
As an instance of the lawlessness of the times,
c

INCIDENTS.

it appears the house of Mr. James Johnston was
fired at, but the occupant escaped unhurt; he
was then assaulted on the Sappers' Bridge and
saved himself by jumping over its westerly side
near the arch. The snow was very deep, and he
sank in it to such a depth as to be incapable of
extricating himself. "While in this dilemma, a
large stone on the edge of the precipice caught
the eye of his assailants, which they attempted
to hurl upon him, and in this manner to put an
end to his life ; but it being firmly frozen to the
bank they were unable to carry out their mur-
derous intention for the moment. Foiled again
in their object they resolved to surround him
and complete the work ; but the timely interfe-
rence of friends not only thwarted them but
finally succeeded in rescuing him altogether.
Three of the gang were afterwards arrested and
punished according to their deserts.

Mr. Johnston, it is thought, followed no par-
ticular calling, and consequently having much
spare time at his disposal, philanthropically em-
ployed it in endeavoring to pacify the conflicting
parties ; but in so doing unfortunately made him-
self obnoxious — ^probably because he was too
officious. He was, however, subsequently re-
warded by being elected a member of the Pro-
vmcial Parliament,

At Hogsback a family were driven out of their

THE SHINERS.

house and a kag of powder rolled in, for the pur-
pose of blowing it up. The first match failed to
accomplish its object; and the second one was
anxiously watched by the Shiner who sat on the
window-sill, straddle legs. The result was be-
yond his most sanguine expectations; for his in-
voluntary aerial excursion, without the aid of a
balloon, caused much mirth among his frio^^ds,
who could not but admire his abrupt and unuig-
nified descent. ,

There was a large number of shanties or cabins
in the vicinity of the Lay By — then called Cork
Town, in consequence of there being none but
Irish families living there. The heads of these
were canal laborers, and were not characterized
for inordinate love of peac3 or order. As a proof

of this, Father M deemed it necessary to

pay frequent visits for the double purpose of
catechising and chiding his flock. On one occa-
sion his appearance was discovered before he had
time to reach the cabin of an old female delin-
quent, who cried out most lustily: "By the Holy

Mary, here's Father M ." She then made

for the window ; but so hurried was her attempt
to escape, that not only did she effect it but took
the window-sash with her round her neck. This
anecdote was frequently related by the reverend
gentleman, whose risible faculties were always
excited at its recollection.

INCIDENTS.

It is related of a woman who, in addition to
selling milk, made a daily practice of begging
money and provisions. The old dame inhabited
a " sand hole," at the door of which her cows
were accustomed to wait to be milked. So suc-
cessful was her mendacity, coupled with the
proceeds of sale of her provisions, that in three
years she and her family returned to the old
country with the sum of eleven hundred pound:.

It is said of Colonel By, the commanding offi-
cer of the Royal Sappers and Miners, that he was
not exempt from insult. It must be borne in
mind that the i^osition of the Colonel frequently
brought him in contact with the people, some of
whom, as may be supposed, were not the most
refined or gentlemanly ; and the discharge of his
duties, therefore, may not always have been
characterized for surplus foibearance. He was
the object of spite when opportunity offered, as
will be seen by the fact that he was one day ac-
costed by a rowdy, who asked him to go up the
river as his cook. A reply, unmihtary but justifi-
able under the circumstances, gave the interro-
gator to understand that such a situation was not
desired.

At a later period matters took the form of re-
ligious strife, when catholics and protestants
opposed each other, and acts of ruffipjiism and
outrage where the order of the day. It became

THE SHINERS.

a necessity for peaceable individuals when invited
to a little re-union to first possess themselves oi a
brace of pistols, as night was the favorite time for
disturbance.

This state of things continued until 1845, v/hen
reason took the place of mob-law ; the Shiners
learned sense, and as a natural sequence peace
and order were restored. It is pleasing to add
that the city has ever since been comparatively
free from crime.

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ARTICLE III.

AMUSEMENTS AND PASTIMES.

AYINGr, ill the previous article, described
the spirit of ruffianism and party faction
that prevailed among the lower orders of
the community during its infancy, it is
grateful to the feelings to turn oyer the
leaf, and recount some of the peaceful and happy
scenes indulged in by the citizens of eighteen
hundred and sixty-eight.

There is, probably, no place in Canada where
the people enter with so much zest into the spirit
of pic-nics, as in Ottawa. During the summer
season this delightful and healthful recreation is
participated in by all classes of the community,
from the little family social to the numerously
attended excursions of public institutions and
societies; the surplus proceeds of these latter
often exceed the sanguine expectations of their
projectors, and thus aid materially the praise-
worthy objects for which they were organized.

Among the places of favorite resort for small
parties, when the depth of water will permit,
Brigham's Creek stands pre-eminent, its propin-

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AMUSEMENTS AND PASTIMES.

quity to the city rendering it accessible in a short
time. Once there, one feels as far from business
with its concomitant noisy waggons and dusty
streets, as though he were miles from the capital.
Private grounds, the Bellevue Gardens at Hull,
and the many villages dotting the shore between
Ottrwa nd Grenville, also afford cooling shelter
from the scorching rays of the midsummer sun.
The banks of the Ottawa are justly admired for
their beauty and rich foliage, sloping and undu-
lating back ground, groves, bays, creeks and
rivulets; the variety is pleasing, and it is not,
therefore, surprising that so many avail them-
selves of a sail in the Queen, to embrace what is
so easily attainable. In addition to the facilities
offered by the steamer, it cannot be said there is
a paucity in the city of small craft, such as buns
or Hat boats, skiffs, shallops and even bark canoes.
The first mentioned, however, are admirably
adapted to the requirements of a family, possess-
ing, as they do,, ample room and a neatly scolloped

awmng.

The amusements and pastimes indulged in by
the votaries of sylvan retreats consist in the usual
emptying of well-filled baskets, containing the
customary delicious morsels and refreshing bev-
erages ; fishuig, archery, the various games inci-
dental to minds bent on relaxation from the
routine of every day life, and finally the "in-

INCIDENTS.

evitable" lacrosse, now the recognized and estab-
lished national game of the country.

There are people who take little or no interest
in the above modes of enjoyment, but prefer
gratifying their taste by a walk up the Richmond
Road, and turning up or down the small branches
leading from it ; while others are again satisfied
with a ramble to Rock Cliff, in New Edinburgh.
Occasionally the finny tribe at Hogsback, and
other points on the canal, are visited by the fol-
lowers of old Isaak, where the capture of a mas-
kinongd, weighing thirty pounds, has been known
to reward them for their exertions.

When the winter season throws its mantle
over the greensward, weekly penny readmgs, an
occasional theatrical performance, skating and
convivial re-unions, pass the time pleasantly.
The attendance at the penny readings is sufii-
ciently large to warrant the beUef that the in-
struction imparted by them is fully appreciated
by the audiences. As is well known they are
but of recent date in this country; and New
Edinburgh, although but a village, is entitled to
the credit of originating them in Canada. A
young lady residing in the place. Miss Neville,
received a letter from a relative in England,
which alluded to the success readings met with
in the old country. The recipient happily thought
of suggesting the subject to the Rev. T. D. Phil-

..«jiaiMiliilM

AMUSEMENTS AND PASTIMES.

lipps, with the object of establishing one in New
Edinburgh. This gentleman immediately ap-
proved the idea, and lost little time in carrying
it out. It were unnecessary to say that Ottawa
and many other places . oon followed the example
Some of the readings in the city are given by
gentlemen of known literary abihty, and others
who are well quahfied to perform the task of
reading well.

It will, therefore, be seen in the premises that
if the capital of the Dominion does not possess all
the advantages of larger cities, yet those it does
present may be said to compensate to a consider-
able extent for their absence.

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ARTICLE IV.

OTTAWA THE CAPITAL.

)HE fall of 182G and that of 18G7 bear a
strong contrast to each other, as regi^rds
Ottawa. While in the former period we
saw it a wilderness, in the latter we find
it the capital, not only of the Province
but of the " Dominion of Canada," with a popu-
lation of over twenty thousand. AVhen the ques-
tion of placing the Seat of Grovernment at Ottawa
was first brought up in parliament, the specta-
tors in the gallery will remember the speech of a
Canadian statesman, who said : " I tell you can-
didly, gentlemen, you might as well send the Seat
of Government to Labrador." Few would have
believed that the present capital could have been
so favored as it has. Yet, strange to say, there
were not wanting those who, as far back as 1827,
predicted that it would be what it is to-day ; and
Sir John Franklin and Colonel By were the prog-
nosticators. The former gentleman declared it

OTTAWA THE CAPITAL.

on tho occasion of laying the foundation store
of the locks of the Ilideau Canal : the remark was
called forth from the latter by a Mr. Burke insist-
ing on getting more land than the Colonel was
disposed to allow him. "^ir,' said tho Colonel,
"this land will be very valuable some day, it
will be the capital of Canada." This conversa-
tion took place about lilty yards from where the
fence of the Western Block of the Departmental
Buildings now stands. Others are said to have
mude similar remarks ; but it has been deemed
sufficient to particularize only the above, as their
professional education and experience better
qualified fhem to form an opinion.

To return then to 1867, the Confederation of
the Provinces was celebrated in the capital with
becouiiiig Mat, as is seen by reference to the
journals of the time, access to which has enabled
the writer to reproduce some of the particulars.

The first of July was the most eventful one in
the history of Ottawa, for the Union was ushered
in at midnight by the firing of one hundred and
one guns, tho kindling of a bon-fire on the Ord-
nance lands opi)osite the cathedral, the ringing
of bells and the discharge of fire-works. The
bon-fire was witnessed by a very large concourse
of people anxious to see the display. Flags,
many of which had been hoisted to their places
simultaneously with the firing of the first gun at

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INCIDENTS.

midnight, floated from house-top, win 'low and
pole, all over the city, as well as on the Parlia-
ment and Departmental Buildings. The Queen
in the morning brought in a portion of the volun-
teers, who proceeded to their several quarters to
take breakfart, and prepared for taking their part
in the parade, to fire the/ew dejoie, and march
past.

At eleven o'clock the Mayor, attended by some
of the aldermen and other gentlemen, with the
Ohaudi^re band, proceeded to the city hall and
read the Queen's Proclamation, which was re-
ceived with great applause. On the conclusion
of the proceedings cheers were given for the
Queer, for the New Lominici, and for the band.

A salute of seventeen guns, fired by the Field
Battery from Major's Hill, announced the arrival
of Lord Monck at the Departmental Buildings.
According to previous announcement the Judges
assembled at the Privy Council Chambers, along
with the members of the extinct Canadian Grov-
ernment, and the ministers from the Maritime
Provinces. A large number of gentlemen had
previously gathered in the corridor, and anxious-
ly awaited the opportunity to witness the cere-
mony of swearing in Lord Monck as the first
Governor General of Canada, in its enlarged
sense, according to the Union Act.

The various companies of volunteers now

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OTTAWA THE CAPITAL.

began to take up position in the square in front
of the Parliament Buildings to fire the feu dejoie.
The Ottawa Provisional Battalion on the right,
next the 43rd Battalion Carleton Volunteers,
Provisional Battalion Rifles, Cadets and Civil
Service front, and P. C. 0. Rifles on left. The
band of the P. C. 0. fourth Battalion, brought
from Montreal for the purpose, played on the
occasion. His Excellency then came on the
ground with his staff: Lieut.-Colonel Irvine,
P.A.D.C., and Lieut.-Colonel Bernard, P.A.D.C.,
accompanied by D. B. Godley, Esq., His Excel-
lency's private secretary. The feu de joie was
then fired in good style. Three hearty British
cheers were given for the Queen, the band play-
ing the national anthem; three cheers for the
Dominion of Canada, and three more for the
Governor General. The march past was then
executed ill the usual manner with great pre-
cision ; after which the military were dismissed
and proceeded to their quarters.

Lacrosse and cricket matches, excursions, pic-
nics, athletic sports, promenading, dancing,
swinging, singing, boat racing and all other
modes of enjoyment proper were indulged in
with enthusiasm. In the evening the Parliament
Buildings were brilliantly illuminated, producing
a very beautiful efiect. The rooms of Mr. Kim-
ber, the Gentleman Usher of the Black Rod, in

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INCIDENTS.

addition to the illumination, were prettily set off
by a number of exquisite statuettes, comprising,
among others, those of Her Majesty the Queen,
the late Prince Consort, Jacques Cartier and
others. Opposite to these, on the brow of the
hill, there was a disj^lay of fire-works, provided
by the city council's committee, under the di-
rection of Mr. Nye, of Sussex street. Among
these were observed the beautiful cross of Malta,
the Mexican sun, the fountain, the urn, mortar
batteiies, Bengal lights, colored rockets, &c. The
efiect of these over the city was worthy of ad-
miration. A transparency had a quaint but tel-
ling effect, viz. : Four links or rings interwoven,
emblematic of the four united provinces, On-
tario, Quebec, Nova Scotia rnd New Brunswick ;
a garter suspended with the motto, Quis Seperabit.
Above, was the representation of a Martello
?owcr surmounted with a Bea^-er and Union
jack; beiuath, a nbbon with the motto, Virtute
Nihil Olestat, nothing resists valor. The general
effect of these transparencies was really good and
the devices appropriate. Apart from the public
illumination, private individuals added their
share.

On Ashburnham Hill a large bon-fire, which
consumed twenty-five cords of wood, was kept
burning from nine o'clock till two next morning.
Fire-works were also displayed, and the people

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OTTAWA THE CAPITAL.

kept up dancing on an illuminated stage decked
out with flags till a late hour.

And thus, in conclusion, was celebrated the
most important of the

INCIDENTS CONNECTED WITH OTTAWA.