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 A MET)^IMU^!RANEAN JAUNT 
 
 -9 
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 I'Kr.UUARV AI'RIl., iS'j^ 
 
 
 SS. "AUGUSTA VICTORIA. 
 
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 1892. 
 
 A MEDITERRANEAN JAUNT 
 
 Fr.HkUARY 12. 
 
 01(1 England's shores arc growing ilim, 
 And my iiieas at ail times slim, 
 Conceive a little doggcnl hymn 
 
 By way of diary. 
 Read of a future, passing whim. 
 By lenient friend or critic grim, 
 
 'Twill not sound briary. 
 
 We're eighteen hours upon our way ; 
 From England many miles away. 
 And getting into Biscay's bay, 
 
 That sea of storms. 
 All appetites have now full play, 
 Soon heads and stomachs giddy'll sway, 
 
 Prone will be forms. 
 
 The German cookery is crude. 
 Suited to stay on stomachs rude ; 
 But scarcely fit to be the food 
 
 Of, say, LucuUus ; 
 Tho' kraut may fit the sweeter mooc' 
 The sausage make inductive brood, 
 
 The lager lull us. 
 

 One luiiu'.iTcl inalis tluie are on board, 
 Aiul l.ir^'cly Germans, who accord 
 llochs and ja wohls from throaty hoard, 
 
 And placid smoke. 
 Thirlv sweet women look toward 
 The stronger sex, and thank tlic Lord 
 
 For average broke. 
 
 Only one acU)h'Sfint treat 
 l)(li;;lileil ;;azi- in scanning; feat 
 Makes out— the boyisli form 1 street, 
 
 Anil wish fair travel. 
 Alone I'll hold him very sweet. 
 Had he companions! fancies fleet 
 
 Their larks unravel ? 
 
 j\Tv_wi£ii is with mc on this trip. 
 She is a wife that scorns the whip, 
 We're both recovering from the grip, 
 
 And need a change. 
 We trust we mayn't too deeply dip 
 In purse, as wo our pleasures sip 
 O'er Orient's range. 
 
 There's with us, too, a maiden fair, 
 Her eyes are dark and so's her hair, 
 Her nose, tip-tilted to the air, 
 
 I think is taking. 
 Her manner's somewhat debonnaire. 
 Her chin a bit inclined to pair, 
 
 A bright face making. 
 
This first (lay out it isn't rouRh, 
 
 So all the Teuton chai)S feel tough, 
 
 And 'tNveen their hocks can't gaze enough, 
 
 At our young charge. ^^ 
 
 When toM of this, she says. " What stufT ! 
 Hut furtive smile heliind her oufT, 
 
 Betrays complacent targe. 
 
 I do not think I like the grub, 
 Tho' fairly cooked ; you feel the rub 
 Of peaches served with mutton cub, 
 
 With chicken jam. 
 But with the morn the briny tub 
 Renews you like a spring showir'd shrub, 
 For varied cram. 
 
 Three meals and little exccrcise 
 The toughest liver scarce defies ! 
 The now-to-bed and now-tu-rise 
 
 Become a bore. 
 But if life's soup contains no flies. 
 Life's sunshine also tjuickly hies, 
 Content's no more. 
 
 Now nods the head, eyes 'gin to blink, 
 Quaff d is the final night-cap drink. 
 Gone the last remnant of a think, 
 
 Till morning dawn ; 
 And into sleep we gently sink. 
 Praying our dreams of hue be pink 
 
 With final yawn. 
 
^ 
 
 FKMRirAKY ij. 
 
 Another (lay! Off lMni.;erre. 
 
 Aiul tlio' t|,e .oast is somewhat bare. 
 
 A calm hhie sea, and purest air 
 
 Make life a treat. 
 'I'liro' i)inotles we ea^^er stare, 
 '!''> gaze at things, mayhap not there, 
 Ami fish folk greet. 
 
 '^'1 'I'<k a l.razcn (ierman hand, 
 'IVlisofihr f]..rman Vaterland. ' 
 Am.) (.rihr girls on homes .sweet strand. 
 
 lA-fi far behind. 
 The Kodak fiend is close at hand. 
 To catch your waking features bland. 
 
 Or form to sleep inclined. 
 
 The fumes of nasty nicotine. 
 
 'Tween you and novel come between ; 
 
 Si)oils all the air, and turns quite green. 
 
 Vour liver and your eyes. 
 Oh ! could discov'rers have seen 
 The evil of this weed, I ween. 
 
 They'd left it, and been wise. 
 
 Yet. .cjpite of music, spite of smoke, 
 Th.- day is fine, so wherefore croak ; 
 Greasy may be the German bloke. 
 
 Hut for a spree we're here. 
 And port and claret we'll invoke. 
 And let the Ti'uton 'Arry soak 
 
 In pipe and lager beer. 
 
 I 
 
For ills tlier'll ho before we've done ; 
 Til' r 11 be a deal too imicli of sun, 
 At timi"< a dreary void of fun, 
 
 Ht'lori! we leave the sea. 
 A very oft repeated piin, 
 Will prove the tuiij^hest, stalest bun, 
 
 Ere we old friends shall see. 
 
 Hnt photos, you've berome no joke ; 
 I love the ever >,'rninbling eroak. 
 And like the alway patient moke, 
 
 No usnal burdens tire. 
 Ihit when they Kod.iks at ine'poke, 
 I envy each black visa>j;ed stoke 
 
 His furnace pyre. 
 
 E'en now, in cabin, vis-a-vis, 
 A crowd collects to gab, and see 
 A flash-light eflfort, doom'd to be 
 
 A sorry thing in vain. 
 'Twill not invoke the mildest glee. 
 On earth, in air. or on the sea. 
 
 Or be the merest gain. 
 
 Yet, judging from the tones of mirth, 
 
 It cannot be miscalled to earth, 
 
 And, perhaps, supplies a present dcartli, 
 
 Of satired art. 
 Genius shows now a meagre girth. 
 The light is dim on humour's hearth, 
 
 Horsesless' wit's cart. 
 
8 
 
 I think 111 now let Kodaks go, 
 
 They're tiresome, but one must not show 
 
 An envy of invention's flow, 
 
 If mimic form they own. 
 Newton ne'er could a flash-lioht throw ; 
 Bacon, much rasher, went too slow 
 
 For times to which we've grown. 
 
 Now tliis day's dinner's past and spent ; 
 In very fact the day's event. 
 Wretched ' that in a day is pent 
 
 Such meagre deed. 
 Yet breakfast's but of bed a rent, 
 And lunch a sorry bit of Lent, 
 
 To this full feed. 
 
 And bed or bunk, of it how write ! 
 Its short and narrow, verv ti<dit. 
 Not fitting to a form unslight. 
 
 Yet sought with glee. 
 And as it's getting on to night, 
 I'll plead that Angels in their flight 
 Guard you and me. 
 
 FKliRrARV 14. 
 
 To-day the Seagulls sin^r 
 And pair upon the wing. 
 And we the parinffs flin<>- 
 
 Of bread or orange peel. 
 We wonder how they cling 
 To air, and have their fling 
 
 Of love or other meal. 
 
9 
 
 'Tis the day of Valentine, 
 Ushered in with bright sunshine, 
 Over all who fast or dine 
 
 Spreading cheer. 
 The sea's uiifathoni'd mine 
 Exhilarates like wine, 
 
 Or sag beer. 
 
 Sunday afloat ! The eager saint 
 May a pretty picture paint, 
 How, apart from poisoned taint 
 
 Of ehurrh or chapel creed, 
 Ther'll be a general worship quaint, 
 A preachment keen, a prayer unfaint, 
 
 From Cassock or from tweed. 
 
 No ; for sects are most diverse ; 
 The Papist's here ; and worse 
 The Jew, who found his hearse 
 
 On Crucifixial tree ; 
 If not Judas, with his purse, 
 Or Saint Peter, with his curse ; 
 
 Many likenesses you see. 
 
 The Armenian Polyglot, 
 
 And the ranting, howling Prot, 
 
 And the Lutheran's who's not 
 
 Lutheran type. 
 There's the Baptist of a lot, 
 Who takes his bath not hot, 
 
 When he's ripe. 
 
lu 
 
 And the band upon the deck 
 Goes ahead without a check. 
 Tho' the bandsmen gaily reck. 
 
 Cheque will come. 
 And the Seagulls swooping p^ck 
 The lunch and dinner wreck. 
 
 From the foam. 
 
 And a sermon we may brew 
 From the sky or in the hue. 
 Of the wave or coast-line blue, 
 
 Of the shore. 
 For now we're full in view, 
 Of Cape Vincent, and anel. 
 
 Thoughts out-pour. 
 
 O'er the gallant deeds there done 
 To the victories fought and won. ' 
 Neath the same resplendent sun 
 
 As now shines. 
 And tho' silent now's each gun, 
 That then roared out the fun, ' 
 
 Memory twines 
 
 Round those days, now passed away. 
 When, within this very bay. 
 All hideous waged a fray, 
 
 Wrong or right. 
 Vet those who won the day, 
 Gained it in a manly way. ' 
 Of their might. 
 
11 
 
 deck 
 heck, 
 ' reck, 
 
 ng peck 
 reck, 
 
 e\v, 
 lie, 
 blue, 
 
 w. 
 
 re done, 
 1 won. 
 It sun 
 
 gun, 
 un, 
 
 sed awav, 
 
 But too serious is this strain. 
 
 Ami so we'll turn again. 
 
 To a deck of peace, not pain, 
 
 This our cruise, 
 Where no guns are 1' to train, 
 And placid is the ni. ., 
 
 As our muse. 
 
 Some keen eye espies a whale. 
 Or a spout, and half a tail. 
 Perchance, it is a male, 
 
 Or lady Valentine. 
 But if bent on love lorn grail, 
 It vanished like a gale 
 
 O'er the brine. 
 
 And the menu this Sunday 
 Is not quite a comic play, 
 But a tragic stodge array. 
 
 And unto merry sounds. 
 For the band gives extra bray 
 And the conversation gay. 
 
 Frisks and bounds. 
 
 Fkrruary 15. 
 
 Gibraltar's rock is sighted. 
 Cook's agent faith has plighted. 
 That ere we be benighted 
 
 Its glories we shall know. 
 " First stop" here stands indited, 
 We're all somewhat excited. 
 
 To see what Cook can show. 
 
12 
 
 So umkr Cook we landed 
 In tens, a hundred banded ; 
 Our drive was somewhat sanded, 
 
 Our hincheon i)Oor and eold. 
 But if the port was brandied, 
 And fraud in charge was candid, 
 
 We were not wholly sold. 
 
 Politeness was unfailing, 
 When driving or when sailing, 
 And, thank yous, for the vailing, 
 
 Were tribute fair to find. 
 One found no room for railing 
 When ladies showed no (luailing, 
 
 When easy was the grind. 
 
 We ditl the forts and sea views, 
 We watched the lively sea mews, 
 Wc overlooked the church pews ; 
 
 But thought the flora grand. 
 The apes, like lunch, a Cook ruse 
 We deemed, and paid our drink booze 
 
 Before we left the strand. 
 
 We heard the bagpipes droning, 
 And squealing and out-moaning 
 With much vigor, as condoning 
 
 For the great rock's solitude ; 
 And the Black Watch band entoning, 
 Sweet melody exponing 
 
 For the ears' and senses' food. 
 
'. 'I 
 
 nded, 
 .1 cold, 
 d, 
 
 ndid, 
 )ld. 
 
 iling, 
 
 id. 
 
 ing 
 
 liling, 
 
 nd. 
 
 ews, 
 mews, 
 pews ; 
 grand, 
 ok ruse 
 Irink booze 
 ind. 
 
 ning, 
 ining 
 ining 
 :)litude ; 
 I entoning, 
 
 ;es' food. 
 
 13 
 
 And wo bought a souvenir 
 Of the rock that tier o'er Ucr 
 Stands a fortress without peer 
 
 In this worUl of wars alarms, 
 '% The Don close in its rear 
 ■f Now can slumber without fear 
 Of warring Europe's arms. 
 
 And the- Spain, with proper pride, 
 ISIay grieve that she's denied 
 What the fate of battle s tide, 
 
 Perhaps, forever tore away ; 
 There's a comfort, that allied 
 Thus with England, she may bide 
 
 As a neighbour neath peace sway. 
 
 The monkeys on the rock 
 Did not show in form to mock 
 At our varied pilgrim flock ; 
 
 But from our guide we learn 
 That their antics greatly shock 
 Bashful souls who wear a frock. 
 And timid eyes down turn. 
 
 And our guide a legend told. 
 Why the mule has never foaled, 
 Tho' he said he did not hold 
 That it really did occur. 
 But the story had a mould 
 In a Spanish type of gold. 
 Surely, sir ! 
 
How that at the Saviour's birth, 
 VVlu-n, you know, there was a dearth 
 Of lodging- on the earth, 
 
 Of the East. 
 Tile Holy maid of worth, 
 Wauderino: from lier humhh; hearth. 
 
 Had her travail with the beast. 
 
 And next that lowly stall, 
 Where the Saviour of us all 
 First upraised His infant call, 
 
 To world's light; 
 With no reverence at all. 
 The mule did cat and maul, 
 
 The bed of the most bright. 
 
 And the virgin mother cried. 
 Of a much offended pride. 
 And forever more denied 
 
 To the mule. 
 No offspring it should guide, 
 And henceforth must abide. 
 
 'Neath stern rule. 
 
 Fehruary I 6. 
 Uneventful, this bright day, 
 Lounge about and read and play. 
 Something wise or stupid say, 
 
 Mostly rot. 
 Just as long-eared donkeys bray, 
 Muttons bleat and ponies neigh ! 
 
 And whv not } 
 
15 
 
 irth, 
 
 a licartli 
 
 ■ hearth, 
 c beast. 
 
 Spain is do^c upon our lee, 
 And with ghiss to aid we see, 
 Lighthouse, fortress, o'er llie sea. 
 
 Keeping watchful guard. 
 Morning meal, and lunch and tea 
 Done, and now the minutes flee 
 
 Swiftly dinnerward. 
 
 right. 
 
 Blue continue sea and sky. 
 Spirits still serene and high. 
 Careless, mark the day go by, 
 
 As a thing of course. 
 Sun shines down and seems to try 
 If he can't our faces fry ; 
 
 We supply the sauce. 
 
 Steamers meet us here and there, 
 So • so close that we can stare, 
 Anc. lind out what people wear. 
 
 People stare likewise. 
 Fishing boats on white wings tear, 
 To and fro, nor seem to care 
 
 For our larger size. 
 
 lay. 
 
 ay, 
 Xh ! 
 
 Strengthened is our pilgrim band 
 By some souls from Western strand. 
 And the ship's attentive band 
 
 Welcomes them with joy. 
 Plays 'ihe tunes of Yankee-land, 
 God Save England's Queen, so grand. 
 
 Home, Sweet Home, ahoy ! 
 
Ifi 
 
 If wo kcup this glorious weather, 
 VVc shall not regret the heather, 
 Si,^'h for l)ird of diflrercnt feather 
 
 Than the swift sea fowl. 
 Limited may be our tether, 
 But we're in one boat t()i,'ether. 
 
 Not to grunt or growl. 
 
 Night is on, a fresher breeze 
 Shakes the quiet of the seas, 
 Shakes some of the Shes and lies, 
 Makes them think of morning. 
 Less the relish felt for teas, 
 Slightly less the trip does please, 
 Strong ones weak arc scorning. 
 
 Iviza we're passing by, 
 Lyons Gulf will soon be nigh, 
 Then Riviera we shall spy, 
 
 New joys to entrance. 
 INIonle Carlo, monies flv, 
 Nice the gay, Menton shy, 
 
 Step- daughters of France. 
 
 Now the day is nearly over. 
 Night is come for pilgrim rover, 
 And we've lived in fairish clover 
 
 Tho' the cooking's queer. 
 As we sink beneath our cover, 
 Into sleep, good angels hover 
 
 O'er us near and dear ! 
 
'3 
 
 17 
 
 Fl'.IlRUAKY 17. 
 
 Now tliro' Lyons' sea we're slrainiiiK, 
 NcariiiR Nice, and some are dieaining 
 Of til .iiiasurcs thereat teeming ; 
 
 Sir.ie are feelinLf chippy. 
 Some are scowling, others heaming, 
 Plans are worked on Roulette scheming, 
 
 Not a few feel hippy. 
 
 Certainly there is a chop 
 In the breakers as they hop, 
 Now a jump and then a lop, 
 
 This way, that way, tumbling. 
 Sailors good are up on top, 
 Weakly livers feel a drop 
 
 Or an inward grumbling. 
 
 Wide and long is now the sea, 
 All alone we seem to be, 
 Many another sail, gee, gee ! 
 
 Maybe out of sight. 
 And we all in this agree, 
 That when on a jamboree. 
 
 Company's a-right. 
 
 Colder, too, the weather now, 
 Chillier winds from mountain's brow, 
 W^raps again in use I vow, 
 
 7\s we walk the deck. 
 Boreas rude 'gins to endow 
 Furrows in the sea to plough, 
 
 Hopes to work a wreck, 
 
rU.n w.th case we're pleasure .Ir „k.n. 
 ^^''^^^^^^y ^^ quickly shriukiw^ '' 
 
 \V,nd.s as quickly risin.'. 
 ' !;:;''^ ^'-at once wore gaily pi„king 
 
 ^VlMtcn now with spirits sinkin,^ ^ 
 i" a (lire surmising. 
 
 ^n^' I')' one the Germans beery 
 
 S'luu grow and sadly dreary. 
 I'ook as if of travel weary. 
 I'alcT their oJH, ^,row'. 
 Stewards answer feeble query 
 
 ^ear the sad ones, limp and teary. 
 ^ o the realms below. 
 
 And the winds increase in rigour. 
 
 Waves, bkewise. show lots of vigour 
 I'^lements are getting bigger. 
 
 Humans smaller grow ' 
 La;^iest soul would be a digger. 
 
 VVhuest spirit with the nigger. 
 f^^Jad on land would hoe.' 
 
 Time goes on. but no secession 
 Elements show more aggression, 
 
 F-ther ardour seems to freshen, 
 
 All but what's organic. 
 There you note increispH ^ 
 
 To conceal the panic. 
 
- thinking, 
 '•'i-'iiiri' drinking, 
 king, 
 •sing. 
 
 '""'.V pinking, 
 linking, 
 
 beery, 
 ■dry, 
 
 cry, 
 
 h1 tcary, 
 
 rigotir, 
 
 rr 
 a 
 
 of vigour. 
 
 ?er, 
 
 er, 
 
 >c. 
 
 iion, 
 sion, 
 hen. 
 
 Pression, 
 )n 
 
 19 
 
 Vessel jumps about most gaily, 
 I, in berth, feel rather scaly, 
 Quite sufficiently to hail a 
 
 Steward to bring a gill. 
 Bu! my wife, who's eaten daily, 
 Well, has feelings that enta;! a 
 
 Settling of the bill. 
 
 Fehruakv 1 8. 
 After little sleej) awaking, 
 Find the billows noisy breaking. 
 To Villefranche's coast-line making, 
 
 Friendly love and dash. 
 (Jong says " breakfast now they're taking," 
 So my narrow couch forsaking, 
 In my tub I splash. 
 
 Land in boats of rough construction, 
 Clinging to the steamer's suction, 
 With the porters have a ruction, 
 
 Off to Nice we drive. 
 Charges need all usufruction, 
 Of ancestry had not luck shone, 
 
 Making efforts thrive. 
 
 See the troops, who daily drilling. 
 Yearn to give the Germans pilling, 
 Say they're ready if you're willing, 
 
 But you must begin. 
 See the dames got up in frilling, 
 Lovers cooing, cafes' billing, 
 
 All in quest of tin. 
 
20 
 
 Flowers in R-ardcns all a-hlowing, 
 Ki<ls ill anus or carriage crowing, 
 Dog to doggy sniff bestowing, 
 
 Up and down llioy wond. 
 Sit in chairs and watch the knowing 
 Matrons who so plump arc growing. 
 
 In their mid-life blend. 
 
 Watdi ilie billows beach-ward brcaidng. 
 See the yonngsters chances taking, 
 ill* ronlette their centimes staking, 
 
 Kyi' each passing dress. 
 Wonder at such merry-making. 
 As in sunshine we sit baking, 
 
 Dreaming more or less. 
 
 Quarter'd at the Hotel Grand, 
 Just beside the ocean strand. 
 Quite adjacent where the band. 
 
 Daily music make. 
 Landlord not too much olT-hand, 
 Attics yields in manner bland 
 
 Which we gladly take. 
 
 Lunch bill's somewhat high, we fear. 
 Dinner charge may be more queer. 
 Season's somewhat in arrear. 
 
 Times arc not the best. 
 But the Carnival is near, 
 Landlord brushes off a tear, 
 
 Hopes to feather nest. 
 
21 
 
 ving. 
 ■vinjr, 
 
 iuowing 
 rowing, 
 
 d brcaicinp, 
 
 ikinp, 
 
 kiiifi:, 
 
 Hi, 
 
 'e fear, 
 let'r, 
 
 At shop windows pause and stare, 
 Jewels, swee's and underwear, 
 Carvings rich and statues rare, 
 
 Catch our tyc in turn. 
 Prices strilce as hardly fait 
 I'erhaps the art is extra rare, 
 
 Pass and scarcely yeain. 
 
 Tilings to cat cost many nncs ; 
 Coaches all are dear, savi.' siiank's, 
 Citizens play festive pranks. 
 
 Carnival's in view. 
 Washing goes on in the tanks, 
 Soldiers march about in ranks, 
 
 Mendicants still sue. 
 
 Saturday begins the show, 
 
 It will last two weeks, you know, 
 
 Rooms will dearer, higher grow, 
 
 Everything will rise. 
 Prospects promise little, so 
 Traps are packed and off we go, 
 
 Shipward in a trice. 
 
 FF.nRUARY iq. 
 
 Still at anchor, heavy rain, 
 Every street look' like a drain, 
 Everyone ashore would fain 
 
 Get oneself away. 
 But whereto, and by what train ? 
 Going means come back again. 
 
 Still you hate to stay. 
 
22 
 
 Go to Cannes, it will be wet ; 
 Menton, pleasant place to fret ; 
 Monte Carlo, go and bet, 
 
 Yes, but in the rain ! 
 Dampness puts you in a pet. 
 Feel you're not in etiquette, 
 
 Boots a huge mudstain. 
 
 What to do you find's the rub, 
 Nice al present is the hub 
 Of the Carnevale grub, 
 
 Soon to butterfly. 
 Nice has not a vacant tub ! 
 Feel a bit inclined to blub, 
 
 Almost wish to die. 
 
 Read the Imes, but two days old, 
 
 Calignani's later gold, 
 
 Gossip one must count as cold, 
 
 If not up to date. 
 Wisher! us back within the fold 
 Of the steamer's cabin hold, 
 Go in landaued state. 
 
 Drive to Villefranche's shore, 
 Glad to see the ship once more, 
 Wet days make the land a bore ; 
 
 Hire a little boat. 
 Rain again begins to pour, 
 Francs expand the boatman's store ; 
 
 Once more safe afloat. 
 
23 
 
 FrHRUARY 2 0. 
 
 Morning opens fairly fine. 
 
 Clouds menace, but bright sunshine 
 
 Gives to blackness gold entwine, 
 
 So to hope we dare. 
 Breakfast over, usual line ! 
 Coffee, eggs, and pig from brine ; 
 
 Plain, but wholesome fare. 
 
 Tumble down companion way, 
 
 Stagger into boat and sway ; 
 
 Bad for youth this, worse for gray. 
 
 Off we start for shore. 
 For Riviera, final day. 
 Oh, that in a Dantesque lay, 
 
 I could lament more ! 
 
 Gain serenely shelving beach, 
 Boatmen pay, two francs for each. 
 Different cochers then beseech, 
 
 But beseech in vain. 
 Finally to whistled screech, 
 Comes, whip-cracking, Jehu leech. 
 
 Digs his little drain. 
 
 Make for giddy Monaco, 
 'Long Corniche, staring go, 
 Tho' the pace is rather slow. 
 
 Beauteous is the view. 
 Pitying the equine woe. 
 Walk up hills you doubtless know. 
 
 And the pony knew ! 
 
24 
 
 Driving, perhaps, about an hour, 
 Reach that world-known fairy bower, 
 Spot, so strangely sweet and sour, 
 
 Most expensive sliow. 
 If you have a gorgeous dower, 
 Or in system are a tower. 
 
 You may richer grow. 
 
 At night, but in the morning, 
 Mark the moral, take the warning, 
 Get away at early dawning. 
 
 With your golden dirt. 
 Don't assume the rule of scorning. 
 Or you'll very soon be pawning 
 
 All your wardrobe, to your shirt. 
 
 We've no wish to win or lose. 
 Well supplied with boots and shoes, 
 Quite enough to eat and boose. 
 
 And good beds at night. 
 Keep our francs within our trews, 
 Knowing well no gambling ruse 
 
 Meets the bankers' might. 
 
 Lunch recherchd much enjoyed, 
 With the plants and .'^cen'ry toyed. 
 List to music unalloyed, 
 
 Most harmonious blend. 
 Nothing on our senses cloyed, 
 Nothing of a form was void. 
 
 Nothing one would mend. 
 
25 
 
 in hour, 
 fairy bower, 
 and sour, 
 w. 
 ower, 
 
 w. 
 
 ing, 
 warning, 
 
 ir 
 n' 
 
 t. 
 
 icorning, 
 
 ming 
 
 ' your shirt. 
 
 use, 
 
 mci shoes, 
 
 lOose, 
 
 ;ht. 
 
 r trews, 
 
 ;: ruse 
 
 ight. 
 
 ioyed, 
 ■ toyed, 
 
 cd, 
 
 I. 
 
 3nd. 
 
 Taku a safe and early train, 
 Many queries make in vain. 
 Foreign porters scarcely deign 
 
 Interest in your call. 
 Doubtless, think, if not insane 
 You can exercise your brain. 
 
 If you've one at all. 
 
 Dinner's done and vessel sailing, 
 iMoon still good, but late unveiling, 
 Lights on shores an.- .-,wiftly paling, 
 
 Smoothly on we so. 
 And a misadvt;ntiire failing 
 Karly dawn will see us hailing 
 
 Bright Ajaccio. 
 
 FeHRUARY 2 1. 
 
 Nothing happens, here we are. 
 In historic Corsica, 
 Wlu're Napoleon's mamma 
 
 Lived at home at ease. 
 Where Napoleon said bail ! 
 Larger fields I see afar 
 
 Which I'd like to seize. 
 
 Born beneath a humble roof, 
 
 Just considered waterproof. 
 
 Thoughts of might, or, perhaps, of oof 
 
 Took him other where. 
 Soon all Europe's neath his hoof, 
 England's only warp and woof 
 
 To defy and dare. 
 
2G 
 
 In Iberia shone a star, 
 England's might, as iron bar. 
 Says you cannot come thus far, 
 
 Wellington forbids. 
 Little Corporal's might we mar, 
 Stop his proud triumphal car, 
 
 Europe of him rids. 
 
 Had a lunch, we scarce approved, 
 Drove thro' smells that almost moved, 
 Driver stopped, as it behooved 
 
 Where great Nap. was born ; 
 Where his ma him petted, loved, 
 Where his pa, perhaps, kicked and shoved 
 
 Ere his greatness dawn. 
 
 Saw the chapel where his mother 
 Restful lies, and doesn't bother 
 O'er this world, perhaps in another 
 
 Truth's before her bared ; 
 And she mourns that Satan's brother 
 She did not at birth-time smother, 
 
 Earth much misery spared. 
 
 Drive and view each different scene. 
 Admire the flowers, the olives' green. 
 Regret the horses are so lean, 
 
 Pity the donkeys' lot. 
 The day is fair, so brightest sheen 
 Bedecks a show which else were mean 
 
 And hardly worth the shot. 
 
27 
 
 1 bar, 
 us far, 
 
 ve mar, 
 car, 
 
 ipproved, 
 
 most moved, 
 
 aoved 
 
 as born ; 
 
 i, loved, 
 
 ickcd and shoved 
 
 Lwn. 
 
 mother 
 jother 
 n another 
 ared ; 
 m's brother 
 
 smother, 
 pared. 
 
 rent scene, 
 Hves' green, 
 can, 
 
 ist sheen 
 e were mean 
 ! shot. 
 
 
 We've tasted all the shore's delights. 
 At little cost liave seen the sights, 
 'I'lic local beauties and the frights, 
 
 And everything admired. 
 We give the ferrymen their rights, 
 Tlien from the steamer watch the lights 
 
 And sink to rest quite tired. 
 
 Vale Ajaccio ! Corsica ! 
 
 Veil have jiroduced the biggest star 
 
 That ever human j)eace did mar. 
 
 We shall not count you worth 
 A second visit, but afar 
 We'll dream of Nap.— his ma and pa— 
 
 And much regret his birth. 
 
 Fkhruary 2 2. 
 Again upon the briny deep 
 We wake refreshed from blessed sleep. 
 We hail the dawn's suggestive peep, 
 
 And pray it may be fine. 
 For when the heavens fret and weep 
 O'er tide that's neither spring nor neap. 
 
 We're all inclined to pine. 
 
 We pass thro' Bonifacio's strait. 
 And see two shores, at breakfast late, 
 And then expectantly we wait 
 
 A further view of land. 
 Maybe we'll see Stromboli's pate, 
 A real volcano up to date 
 
 Would much respect command 
 
28 
 
 Then skirting the Sicilian isle 
 We'll view a landscape full of smile, 
 r.jizf upon Etna's towering-- pile 
 
 Thro' memory, work an'l rove. 
 Kmpedocles assumes new style, 
 Wijile Matthew Arnold's poems beguile ! 
 
 Those verses that we love ! 
 
 We have Americans aboard, 
 
 A race that's not to he ignored. 
 
 To day's they iind their much adored 
 
 George Washington's birthday. 
 And so a scene of mirth afford. 
 And jangle on a tiresome chord 
 
 To hail their empire's sway. 
 
 A gent from out the woolly west 
 Feels quite expansive 'neath his vest. 
 Tells ho • G. W. was the best 
 
 Of all created man. 
 A second orator v.ith zest 
 Gaily upsprings to give the rest 
 
 As only Yankees can. 
 
 They blow about their country vast 
 With colors nailed to freedom's mast, 
 A shade of innuendo cast 
 
 On lands a trifle riper. 
 The grammar puts the soul aghast. 
 We grimly wish their glorious past 
 
 Could hire a better piper. 
 
isle 
 
 I of smile, 
 •T pile 
 au'l rove, 
 style. 
 
 ociiis beguile ! 
 love ! 
 
 ored, 
 
 icli adored 
 
 birthday. 
 
 ford, 
 
 liord 
 
 sway. 
 
 west 
 h his vest, 
 
 L-yt 
 
 rest 
 
 try vast 
 m's inast, 
 
 ighast, 
 IS past 
 
 T. 
 
 :30 
 
 And then a herr from Vaterland 
 Resijonds in manner quite ofTliaml, 
 His German's clearly at command, 
 
 His I'lnglish somewhat lame. 
 He hopes that as a pilgrim band 
 We'll all unite in friendship bland 
 
 Within platonic frame. 
 
 Th(7 then the burly captain toast, 
 Who, in return, declines to boast. 
 But thinks he knows the giddy coast 
 
 And guarantees no wreck. 
 He clearly feels himself a host, 
 Afraid of neither man nor ghost, 
 
 A saviour on the deck. 
 
 Good bye, George Washington's birthday, 
 He licked the British, Yankees say ; 
 At Langs Neck, in more recent fray, 
 
 The Boers did much the same. 
 But when, like England, you grow gray. 
 You'll perhaps regard in other way 
 
 Your historied page of fame. 
 
 February 23. 
 Breaks a morning, fine, but hazy. 
 Wake, as usual, feeling lazy. 
 Mid Lipari's Islets mazy. 
 
 Find we're gaily moving. 
 Stromboli to left obeys a 
 Law that makes him ever raise a 
 
 Smoke that's quite improving. 
 
 i 
 
 
30 
 
 Looms up Vatcaiiio's cape, 
 
 When-, no (ioiibt, the luscious grape 
 
 Fertile corners docs eiulrape 
 
 Wealtli of fruit and green. 
 Wending o'er a course like tape, 
 View Messina's ivory nape, 
 
 Reggio's rocky screen. 
 
 Then by fair IMessina's strait, 
 Steer a sure, but wriggling gate, 
 Calabria's left, Siciiia's mate. 
 
 They stand nigh hand in hand. 
 We pray that Plna's hoary pate 
 May on this individual d:ite 
 
 Betray its presence grand. 
 
 But clouds o'er Sicily frown and sulk. 
 
 And Etna's grand and classic bulk 
 
 From longing glances, unkind, does skulk 
 
 Till distance rubs out hope. 
 We term him but a sneaking hulk, 
 That he should our fair pleasure mulct 
 
 And limit thus our scope. 
 
 Wc now from out the land ■ - ge, 
 And wider grows the barren , , 
 Th' unbroken waste we find a dirge 
 
 Of dulness and constraint. 
 Wc muse witli awe on stormbelt's verge. 
 Grimly forebode a liver purge 
 
 If Boreas prove unfaint. 
 
;ji 
 
 )ii.s grape 
 
 c 
 
 •en. 
 
 tape, 
 
 t, 
 gate, 
 
 '» 
 
 in hand. 
 
 late 
 
 nd. 
 
 and sulk, 
 ;c bulk 
 
 nd, does skulk 
 lopc. 
 r hulk, 
 sure mulct 
 
 a dirge 
 int. 
 
 ibelt's verge, 
 ;e 
 
 To grimmest nature now we're left 
 
 Till Friday .shall be (]iiite berclt 
 
 or art, save where the b.uuisnien deft 
 
 Invoke sweet music's strains. 
 Why land and ocean are ye cleft 
 So wide apart in warj) and weft 
 
 Wiien union beauty gains ? 
 
 Sad sea, so long, so deep and wide ; 
 Blue sea, without the changing tide. 
 Must we three dreary long days bide 
 
 Upon thy swelling range ? 
 Must we float on thee unallied, 
 To continent or island bride, 
 
 Till Egypt brings a change. 
 
 Ferruary 24. 
 Dawns a morning fairly blue. 
 Sky and sea the azure hue 
 Share l)eneath the sunshine's view, 
 
 But the veather's cold. 
 Wintrier blasts the storm fiends brew, 
 From the deck the frailer few 
 
 Shrink, remain the bold. 
 
 Quite uneven rules the wave. 
 
 Sprays the decks with dampness lave, 
 
 ;\Iany ladies fail to brave 
 
 Feeding times bidow. 
 Some on (let k in manner grave 
 F'at a little, many save 
 Vessels victual show. 
 
32 
 
 Incident is very rare, 
 
 Land seems neither here nor there, 
 
 1 hrown upon resources bare 
 
 Lethargy docs grow. 
 Huddled sit, and vacant stare, 
 Look as if the dullest care 
 
 'd come to stay, you know. 
 
 Smoke room full ! Cards make play. 
 Bards on deck discourse their lay. 
 Stewards wield refreshment tray, 
 
 No one's feeling brisk, 
 This is ocean's little way ; 
 His bit of side or regal sway, 
 
 His giddy little frisk. 
 
 Small excitement some one tried, 
 Shouted from the windward side, 
 That he had a dolphin spied. 
 
 0(T we rush with glee. 
 No one saw the scaly hide, 
 Judgment said that rumour lied ; 
 
 Back to chi'irs we flee. 
 
 Feukuary 25. 
 
 Dullish day, but somewhat finer, 
 Sun declines to act as shiner, 
 Not so general the repiner, 
 
 To-morrow we'll see port. 
 A steamer hail, may be from China ; 
 Swallow see, a sure diviner 
 
 Of the land he sought. 
 
r.eiu'rril fcclinf^ much more happy, 
 Iiiclin.Uioii not so nappy, 
 Lathes dressy, also cappy, 
 
 FccHng more at case. 
 Much more lively every chappy, 
 Wliether single or a Jiappy, 
 
 More at home on seas, 
 
 Tlie German's in feeling elated, 
 Ills thirst he's abundantly sated, 
 lie's thinking ihe gale he o'errated. 
 
 The odour of land he can sniff, 
 rir unmarried as well as the mated 
 Slick to deck, or to smoke-room belated. 
 
 Enjoying immensely their whiff. 
 
 The one or two from France aboard. 
 Who o'er jealousy have soared, 
 Shipp'd 'neath flag the most abhorred. 
 
 Chat in manner gay. 
 Much of jollity afford 
 To the nations given to hoard 
 
 Mirth for other day. 
 
 And Yankees guess, and some declare. 
 With that lack of bragging blare, 
 Which you know's their native air. 
 
 That if Pyramid and Sphinx 
 With their monument compare. 
 Sir ! we'll buy them, just riglit there ! 
 
 Waiter, set up drinks I 
 
 i^ 
 
And the Britons arc worried, 
 And a little bit flurriod 
 
 In lhonf,'ht of the morn ; when possibly hurried 
 The customs to pass, 'fore taking the train 
 Cook's af^cnt they've curried, 
 With questions, and buried 
 Themselves in a moisture of possible rain. 
 
 Feiiruary 26. 
 AnotlnT morning's light we hail. 
 In Alexandria's hay we sail. 
 And boatmi'ii throng witiiout a hail 
 
 To yell anil lie and cheat. 
 We watch the fun from high deck rail. 
 See Arab at Egyptian gale. 
 
 And count the whole a treat. 
 
 We hire a little dragoman. 
 Who's face is of the deepest tan ; 
 His name is Mose Mohamodan, 
 
 Mayhap, mispclled for rhyme. 
 We pass thro' Lniells no one could scan, 
 II is work he very quickly ran, 
 
 Thro' plaza, slum and slime. 
 
 We marked what damage British guns 
 
 Had done years back ! How fast time runs; 
 
 Arabia's that Time's younger sons, 
 
 Now grown to man's estate. 
 We had to stand a lot of duns, 
 We fired away some dreary puns 
 And plenty idle prate. 
 
:\:, 
 
 1 possibly hurried 
 
 2 taking the train. I 
 
 ossibic rain. 
 
 lil. 
 
 I hail 
 cck rail, 
 cat. 
 
 m ; 
 n, 
 
 yme. 
 3iild scan, 
 
 tne. 
 
 sh guns 
 
 fast time runs; 
 
 sons, 
 
 Ic. 
 
 ns 
 
 i 
 
 Wo see fair Cleopatra's tomb, 
 Ilt-r skeleton therein does loom 
 As ghastly prescient of our ' >ia ; 
 
 Ihit is it Cleo's own ? 
 And Ponipey's tower, another boom 
 (^f Alexandria's vacant room 
 
 ^nd ni )st infertile zone. 
 
 Out driver thrt;atens to be late 
 
 To catch the train if bncksheesh rate 
 
 Hf not administered to sate 
 
 His Orient appetite. 
 U'f promise princidy fees, but state 
 In I -nguage it is not ids fatt; 
 
 To grasp completely right. 
 
 The train is caught in ample time ; 
 We reach gay Cairo full of grime 
 Of Kgypt's dust, of sand and lime. 
 
 And feeling very tired. 
 Shepherd's, we fmd, is still in prime. 
 Here's comfort, and I hope my rhyme 
 
 May be thereof inspired. 
 
 Fkhruaky 27. 
 Wake in little beds whitt; n.lted, 
 '*iainst which stray mosquitoes fretted, 
 Doubtless with each other belted 
 
 Who'll first shed our blood. 
 Unto fate we're much indebted, 
 Who protected us and petted, 
 
 Gave those flies no food. 
 

 A dragoman of great repute, 
 
 His trumpeter by no means mute, 
 
 Inspired by dreams of bucksheesli loot 
 
 Upon us quick descends. 
 His self-esteem our notions suit, 
 ]i\ bargain, perhaps not overcute, 
 
 His aid to us he lends. 
 
 We also hire a quiet landau ; 
 
 Oil, land of Mose, what modern saw, 
 
 In present life's devouring jaw ; 
 
 What innovation worse 
 In place of donkey, jerinckshaw, 
 Reigns vehicle of London law 
 
 Thus comforts art immerse. 
 
 We then ascend a little hill, 
 
 And gaze upon the city till 
 
 Our eyes with tears from gazing fill, 
 
 Yet are not satisfied. 
 Monotonous as washing bill. 
 But grandly so, and lying still. 
 
 Such charms can't be denied. 
 
 We enter IMosques with covered feet, 
 
 The modern and the ancient seat 
 
 Of where the turbaned Moslems meet 
 
 Before Mahomed's shrine. 
 And then we seek the busy street. 
 Prowl thro' bazaars, where vendors cheat, 
 
 And donkeys badly dine. 
 
37 
 
 We drive to fields of modern play, 
 Where polo goes on day by day, 
 And golf holds fascinating sway. 
 
 And racing's also known. 
 See wickets pitched where bowlers may 
 Show bats they cannot always stay 
 
 E'en tho' to Grace they've grown. 
 
 And then we think we've done enough, 
 And homeward drive that we may stiifi, 
 Our linings until quantum suff, 
 
 Kt'pleted nature cries. 
 The dinner's praise we mildly puff, 
 Tlie wines wo think a little rough, 
 
 And abstinence deem wise. 
 
 February 28. 
 To-day is Sunday, go to church, 
 But leave the parson in the lurch 
 (And do not wait to feel the birch) 
 
 As soon as prayers are done. 
 And then begin a further search. 
 For sights with dragoman on perch, 
 
 Beneath a shining sun. 
 
 We cross the now much shrunken Nile ; 
 
 Pass fdth and misery very vile, 
 
 And pastures wearing nature's smile, 
 
 A smile as broad as kind. 
 We lounge thro' grand Ghezirehs' pile. 
 In Gizeh's gardens bask a while, 
 
 And many beauties find. 
 
88 
 
 Begin to think that Nature's scan, 
 Does not embrace in God-made man, 
 A worser than the Bedouin 
 
 Wherein pertains to guile. 
 The Occident's beneath the ban. 
 Of Orient, and the littU> plan 
 
 Is to extract a pile. 
 
 \V\''rr told the dragoman must cheat, 
 We're not surprised at this and greet 
 The news a second-handed treat; 
 
 Yet hope that in our guide. 
 We've got a thing whose highest feat 
 Will bt! the outside world to cheat, 
 
 And always on our side. 
 
 And yet, when passing Jacob's well, 
 He did not of its wonders tell, 
 IIow it of shows was quite a belle, 
 
 We hope he but forgot ; 
 That in the questioning pell mell, 
 He overlooked and nary sell 
 
 Was worked, or lazy plot. 
 
 His answers, too, are somewhat wide 
 Of queries we would fain decide. 
 Our sense of where he does deride, 
 
 In manner quaintly bland. 
 He seems to feel we think he lied, 
 And take therein a sort of pride 
 
 That we should understand. 
 
39 
 
 lit; says there's : 'ill a lot to see, 
 Not one day's work but two or three, 
 We must not I urry, or we'll he 
 
 To-morrow much fatigued. 
 In this we feel we must agree. 
 So homeward turn tlio' plainly we 
 
 Perceive a plot is leagued. 
 
 Fehruakv 29. 
 Day which comes one year in four, 
 Finds us still in Cairo — more 
 That we see of Egypt's lore 
 
 More we wish to see. 
 To- day we breast Nile's strong down pour, 
 And hug at times on cither shore, 
 Pointing to desert free. 
 
 Ujion a steamboat very slow, 
 Some six miles to the hour we go, 
 Not nearly up to programme's show. 
 
 But this we must expect. 
 Pass dirty banks of old Cairo, 
 Watch motley life go to and fro 
 
 Four-footed and erect. 
 
 On steamer lunch, and thus restore. 
 
 Our jaded forms for labour sore ; 
 
 The steamer's tied to mud-banked shore, 
 
 We gaily disembark. 
 Mid donkey boys, who push and roar, 
 And praises of their mokes outpour 
 
 White grins from faces dark. 
 
4U 
 
 Mounting our steeds with feelings dread, 
 We slowly o'er the desert sped, 
 Viewed Raineses, that highly bred 
 
 Egyptian Monolith ; 
 Reposing in his sandy bed, 
 And costing nothing to be fed, 
 
 A most lucrative myth. 
 
 Next comes a Sacred Sepulchre, 
 Where sometime Egypt did inter 
 Her bovine gods, who did not stir, 
 
 For ajons of future years ; 
 Until to some it did occur. 
 To delve and find the bone manure. 
 
 Of those much pampered steers. 
 
 Other cellared tombs we view. 
 Where great Ti a rest once knew. 
 On the walls are sculptured true. 
 
 Or mythic meaning signs. 
 Geese, hens and ducks, and not a few 
 Donkeys and camels, ladies too, 
 
 In quaint, artistic lines. 
 
 Then donkeys gladly mount once more. 
 And gaily ride to river shore ; 
 The donkeys think it all a bore. 
 
 But do their level best. 
 I think we all feel rather sore. 
 And wear'ed of attendants' roar. 
 
 Quite thankful for the rest. 
 
 V 
 
 ]\ 
 
 V 
 
41 
 
 March i. 
 With (lawn or waking, thing of course, 
 Hhiest sky and sun, of force, 
 Purest air, no pain's remorse 
 
 Unless last night you'd dined ; 
 Anil tried on Bacchus to endorse 
 A note too surely cashed with loss. 
 
 No matter who has signed. 
 
 Egyptian climate most sublime; 
 To think how squalor filthy grime, 
 Have been in thee since earliest time, 
 
 Beneath such glorious blue. 
 That Israel's people in such clime, 
 Were quite content, I hold no crime, 
 
 I w^uld have been so too. 
 
 To-day we drive to Gizeh's lands. 
 Where highest pyramid commands 
 A view o'er Bedouin wand'ring bands. 
 
 And over fair Cairo ; 
 Made centuries back, by toiling hands. 
 Now worlds of farthest western lands, 
 
 To thee as pilgrims go. 
 
 Thou souvenir of mighty Cheops, 
 
 Whence Pharaohs watched o'er Delta crops, 
 
 Marked mighty Nile in rise and drops, 
 
 Agone five thousand years. 
 Was't then foreseen what backsheesh sops 
 We'd pay to climb, and what sad mops 
 
 Are from thy summit seers. 
 
42 
 
 But luncheon, and some cooling drinks. 
 Brave us again to face the Sphinx, 
 That brazen, overgrown young minx, 
 
 Of tawny, classic pose. 
 One gazing somewhat sadly thinks, 
 Can she approve those golfers' links 
 
 So close beneath her nose. 
 
 The camels grimlv roaring kneel 
 That we may mount ; we backward reel 
 As desert ship gets on its keel, 
 
 And stalely onward stalks. 
 The freights a little seasick feel, 
 And apprehend that mid-day meal 
 
 May sadly walk its chalks. 
 
 At Mena house we get good cheer. 
 In lunch, and tea, and ginger beer. 
 And somewhat stronger booze I fear, 
 
 And then we homeward wend. 
 We walk bazaars, at curios peer. 
 And are not grieved hotel to near 
 
 And rest, our pains to mend. 
 
 March 2, 
 This day at Cairo is our last ; 
 Swiftly the pleasant days have passed, 
 To-morrow's morn will come too fast, 
 
 And see us shipward bound. 
 What then shall be our final cast ; 
 Say, dragoman, what sights thou hast 
 
 Upon this classic ground. 
 
43 
 
 Experience conies to those who'll learn ; 
 To-diiy we 'ncath the Khnnisi-en burn, 
 A sandstorm slitles us — we turn 
 
 To tcnipkcl Helio ; 
 And Marlarieh's tower discern, 
 And wonder if our guide does yearn 
 
 To give a better show. 
 
 The ostrich farm we visit next, 
 The showy birds a bit pe nlexed 
 Would interest more plumage unvexcd, 
 
 JW this unchristian wind. 
 ]51ack cocks, gray hens, and chicks unscxed ; 
 Kggs plain, with yolks, and eggs indexed, 
 
 To suit collector's mind. 
 
 We visit, too, the Holy tree, 
 Where Mary, Joseph and the wee 
 Sweet Christ, as they to Egypt flee, 
 
 Take rest beneath its shade. 
 A very ancient fig we see, 
 That might, and not unlikely, be 
 
 The one 'neath which they laid. 
 
 Gizch's museum then we seek, 
 
 And gaze at Mummies, which could speak 
 
 With eloquence when earliest Greek 
 
 Was still in thought unborn. 
 Silent they lie, reposeful, meek. 
 And we the children of a week, 
 
 They doubtless hold in scorn. 
 
44 
 
 Tlie Coptic village and its shrine, 
 
 We wander through, mark each grim sign, 
 
 Antl rather wish we'd drawn the line 
 
 Before, nor been so bold. 
 No English cat of livings nine, 
 Would deign in such a place to dine, 
 
 Or dog its tail unfold. 
 
 Old Cairo's streets, all garbage paved, 
 With fingers hoUling noses, braved. 
 And much rejoiced that we were saved, 
 
 From other sights of kind. 
 Glad that our dragoman had knaved 
 Us of the sight, wherein engraved, 
 
 The Caliphs rest now find. 
 
 Tired, dusty, sore, we homeward go ; 
 Quick's now the pace, before so slow, 
 The horses had enough, you know. 
 
 And for their stable long. 
 On dragoman his wage bestow, 
 With good bucksheesh, o'er which he'll blow 
 
 And brag in language strong. 
 
 March 3. 
 
 Bearing treasures o'erpaid spoil. 
 To the railway station toil ; 
 Porters would our efforts foil. 
 
 And our luggage mix. 
 E'er we seats obtain we boil. 
 And our linen collars soil, 
 
 Past all power to fix. 
 
45 
 
 ti sign, 
 
 'ed, 
 
 1 
 
 w. 
 
 le'll blow 
 
 Awful grime pervades the train ; 
 Soruly needs the country rain, 
 Irrigation's frequent, drain, 
 
 Doesn't take its pl'\ce. 
 Full of dust and travei stain, 
 To Khedivial house again, 
 
 Luncheon briskly face. 
 
 Under auspices of Cook, 
 For our steamer gaily book ; 
 Pay five shillings each and look. 
 
 At 'he charge askant. 
 Call our dragoman a rook, 
 Find the Custom house a crook, 
 Plainly see a plant. 
 
 March 4. 
 
 Wake refreshed to sniff a breeze. 
 
 In the harbour from the seas, 
 
 — As the good ship rides at ease — 
 
 Speaking of Ozone ; 
 Not smell, language of the lees. 
 Scum, and rot and dust-born fleas, 
 
 Cairo's undertone. 
 
 Very few have reached the ship ; 
 Most with Cook have done the trip, 
 Bargain made they'll not let slip. 
 
 Worth for money paid ; 
 Here we have them on the hip. 
 Take our ease and honey sip 
 
 On an easier grade. 
 
4fi 
 
 Quietly i^ors tlic mid-day meal, 
 
 More enjoyable a di'al, 
 
 Tliaii when eonvcrsalion's j)cal 
 
 Clant>s from hundred throats. 
 Waiters wait and don't reveal 
 Instincts of the slii)p'ry eel, 
 
 Clad in waiter coa(s. 
 
 All, at last, are safe on ■. oard, 
 Hand strikes up exuUinH: chord. 
 Which we, one and all, api)laud, 
 
 As the anchor's weii^hcd. 
 Pedlars from the la":tl, who jawed 
 Of their wares, are landward toward, 
 
 And way to Syria's made. 
 
 March 5, 
 We're told that into Jaffa's bay 
 We'll likely come at peep of day, 
 So wake before the first sun ray 
 
 Illumines sky or sea. 
 W^e find the ship siill on her way, 
 No land in siL-jht, resume our lay, 
 
 'i'hen tub, and dress, and tea. 
 
 We land on Jaffa's open strand, 
 Arc told of Simon, tanner, grand 
 Old man, who ever couUl command. 
 
 The choicest things in skin. 
 We hope he made a lot of sand. 
 And owned a goodish bit of land, 
 
 And fair amount of tin. 
 
\Vc Rcl into ii I.mdiui, slow 
 Iir( aiiNu llic lioisi'S iiiiiy not t^o 
 riir jtliii ii (k'tcrinincd foe 
 
 To proi^rcss of the west. 
 As plants iii routt', we seem to grow, 
 And that without the usual , ..ow 
 
 Of nature's growing zest. 
 
 d, 
 
 Ti.ivcrse a country good for naught, 
 Once siHU, should ne'er again be sought, 
 \\\- woikKt why the nations fought 
 
 l-'or such unfertile space. 
 \\\- feel that they who childhood taught. 
 Were very likely never caught 
 
 In this untempting place. 
 
 The road from Jaffa, too, so void 
 
 or living interest ; fly annoyed 
 
 Vdu'II surely be, and grimed and cloyed. 
 
 With diist and scenery bare. 
 irnieinory with the Scriptures toyed, 
 And tried to ih'nk it all enjoyed. 
 
 That memory were rare. 
 
 d, 
 
 Tin hours we take upon the road, 
 At Ramleh for a while unload ; 
 L'p hill of Dagon like a toad 
 
 At gallop was our pace. 
 Saw Ajalon ; the sun there showed 
 No stopping symptom a la mode 
 
 ( )f Joshua's day of grace. 
 
48 
 
 Gordon liouls, your sometime; shade, 
 I've ^'rumbled at, complainiiiLf made, 
 Hut how your smaller miseries fade 
 
 Fore Salem's " the Grand New." 
 Corruption in the meat made raid, 
 The e^'gs were fresh, but what by laid ? 
 
 butter from camels grew. 
 
 House of the gloomy Jaffa gate, 
 Without abusing more I'll state. 
 You have a strength I ean't o'errate, 
 
 Your manager is kind ; 
 Quick of his parts to estimate 
 Your wants, and worthy belter fate. 
 
 Than this poor tavern's grind. 
 
 Donkeys and saddles now's the call, 
 Our i)arty makes but four in all, 
 We ride all round the city wall, 
 
 And into marvels pry ; 
 But Siloam's odours all appal. 
 And Absalom's tomb docs not enthral 
 
 Our, perhaps, fastidious eye. 
 
 O'er foulest odours fervent sun 
 Looks gaily down and tries for fun. 
 Your other senses all to stun, 
 
 Except the sense of smell. 
 You try to make your donkey run, 
 And think he'd but too gladly shun 
 
 Tiie odours known so well. 
 
4!) 
 
 Tlir l(|it'r slalion then wc near ; 
 Outstri-lcliing stumps, ihey ht'i;, you'll li.ar, 
 And raise disgust, whore perhaps a te.ir 
 
 Were not unworthy shed. 
 Hut eastern hinds soon bring, we fear, 
 Where pity might bo, but the jeer 
 
 0( cahn content instead. 
 
 Voii launot feel for squalid plight, 
 Wluii all around's such sick'ning Ijlight 
 OffiUli and stench (where glorious light 
 
 or finest clime prevails) ; 
 \iid this all borne with nose antl sight, 
 As essence of contentment's ritrht. 
 
 Your sense of pity fails. 
 
 Wo visit Omar's mosque, where Turk, 
 DiKs yet in ancient grandeur lurk, 
 Amid the city's filthy mirk ; 
 
 Tlie Haram spotless seems. 
 Wo soo the goki and carving work, 
 Tiio stone which felt the prophot's \. 
 
 Suspent in air by beams. 
 
 Wo stand uiHMi oil INIount Moriah, 
 Are shown lae place the sacred fire 
 Averud homicide so dire, 
 
 Abramic sacrifice. 
 \'i>i here the Moslem lets for hire 
 ' I shoes, lost boots his mosque fxmire, 
 
 And charges longish price, 
 
We gaze upon the temple gate 
 
 Called Beautiful ! How spite and hate 
 
 Have passed its portals, now too late 
 
 The day to but surmise. 
 I^o doubt its beauty once was great, 
 We wonder if it seemed first-rate 
 
 To Roman's critic eyes. 
 
 Last, but not least, the Holy cave, 
 Which pilgrims ent'ring tearful lave, 
 And feel such pilgrimage will save 
 
 From past and future sin. 
 Narrow and low, this rock hewn grave, 
 lUit 'neath its portal what a wave 
 
 Of human life goes in. 
 
 The slab on which the Lord was laid. 
 The stone that once the entrance stayed, 
 A bowed down woman form that prayed, 
 
 i\Iade grand suggestive sight ; 
 But realism 'gins to fade, 
 When frescoed dome you have surveyed, 
 Arched o'er the Holy light. 
 
 1\L\RCH 7. 
 
 At deepest night, when church yards yawn, 
 And ghosts o'er timid beings fawn, 
 I wake and feel the merest pawn 
 
 On this earth's chessboard vast. 
 I\Iy vitals are by something gnawn, 
 And ere the day's begun to dawn 
 
 I feel that weeks have passed. 
 
51 
 
 The doctor comes and gives me pap, 
 It doesn't turn out worth a rap ; 
 He coinos again ! a pleasant chap, 
 
 Kindl)' disposed, but coarse, 
 lie hears my woe, and 7kr/juw sap, 
 A fresh prescription puts on tap, 
 
 It's dear, witli no more force 
 
 To-morrow we must join the ship. 
 Or else she'll give us all the slip. 
 And budding hopes unkindly nip 
 
 Of seeing lands unknown. 
 'Twould be a loss to miss the trip, 
 Hut, oh, conceive the anguished grip 
 
 Of lying in Salem prone. 
 
 That live long day I kept my bed, 
 Drank watered rice, nor asked for bread, 
 -My throat was sore and ached my head' 
 
 And many an other part. 
 J^iit thro' the day the mind was fed. 
 With feelings of the direst dread 
 
 Anent to-morrow's start. 
 
 March 8. 
 The long dark night brought little rest, 
 Those forty miles of drive are blest, 
 And (ir-ams invoke of grimmest zest, 
 
 With fitful slumber snatched. 
 At six we start, at five we're dressed 
 I'm feeling very second best. 
 
 Not mended quite, but patched. 
 
 I \ 
 
We're off; a drive of seven hours, 
 Dot-'S not lend vigour to our powers, 
 And motion temper somowliat sours, 
 
 And madam's also seedy. 
 We welcome Jaffa's smelly bowers, 
 And gaze where Carmel arid towers, 
 
 For sea breeze feeling greedy. 
 
 The surf is breaking with some vigour, 
 
 lint welcome ocean all your rigour, 
 
 Howl winds, and make the wave banks bigger, 
 
 Tho' ladies shri(>k with fear. 
 Each boatman is a sturdy nigger, 
 And with a most complacent snigger 
 
 The steamer's side we near. 
 
 March 9. 
 To doctor of the ship last night, 
 I did reveal my sorry plight, 
 He gave me medicine of might 
 
 Which brought a fair night's rest ; 
 Perchance, the grip of sickness' bite. 
 Was then relaxing, but day light, 
 
 Found me much less opprest. 
 
 To-day's a blank ; a bright blue tide. 
 And sky fit bridegroom to such bride. 
 Passing Rhodes' isle we swiftly glide. 
 
 There is a little swell. 
 A few weak spirits go and hide. 
 But gaps at table are not wide. 
 
 And feeding goes on well. 
 
53 
 
 The evening brings a little raid, 
 The usiiul tax on pockets made, 
 The cause the seamens' widows' aid, 
 
 Good cause, whate'er the means 
 Uiir Orient purchases are laid, 
 On tables and a price is paid 
 
 To see how fancy leans. 
 
 And veriest trifles we collect. 
 Raffle and auction with effect ; 
 Water of Jordan, if correct, 
 
 Was not at all ton dear. 
 Vou knew that if you sent direct. 
 To oot the same you must expect, 
 
 A charge much more severe. 
 
 March id. 
 Wake limply as the morning light 
 Thro' porthole says adieu to night, 
 ^ee Samos' somewhat dreary height. 
 
 The day is damp and chill. 
 Later it clears, and sunlight bright 
 Shines down as Chios comes in sight. 
 
 With crag and furrowed rill, 
 
 Kre noon we enter Smyrna's bay, 
 Down anchor drops with music gay, 
 And each one's quite a lot to say. 
 
 Of what they'll do on land. 
 The British fleet is here to-day, 
 And band to band makes cheerful play, 
 
 By courtesy's command. 
 
:a 
 
 And some go oflf to Dian's fane, 
 Where 'Metriiis and the craft made gain, 
 Days ere the Apostolic strain 
 
 l'".|)lu'sian culture pleased ; 
 They'll perhaps admire the nerve anil brain, 
 With which the town clerk did restrain, 
 
 The people and appeased. 
 
 Thi;y'll wonder at those temple stones. 
 And perliai>s view some of Dir.n's bones. 
 Or those of some I'.phesian Jones, 
 
 Exhibited instead. 
 Rare cidlured souls may trace her thrones, 
 And hear her liquid dulcet tones, 
 
 As tho' she were not dead. 
 
 And two or three on ship remain, 
 Tliey stay because they move with pain 
 And fear tliey may get ill again 
 
 Should they exertion make ; 
 Their only comfort is a grain, 
 That money won't be spent in vain, 
 
 Altho' they had no cake. 
 
 March n. 
 
 A very wretched night's gone by, 
 Tiie missus was in misery, 
 I, for my part, could only try 
 
 To keep awake and aid. 
 With more dilated jaundiced eye, 
 Our tlioughts go back to Salem's sty, 
 
 Where we began to fade. 
 
i)i) 
 
 We still in Smyrna's bay repose, 
 Safe from the perils of the nose, 
 Which e'er besets the one who goes 
 
 On land to be anuised. 
 The (lay is fine, the sun arose, 
 Willi warmth that called for lighest clothes, 
 
 And languor is enfused. 
 
 We get a boat and row a mile, 
 
 To see the English fleet,— the Nile 
 
 We found bore up the Admiral's tile 
 
 With majesty it wore. 
 The Dreadnought's here of older style, 
 Tiie Agamemnon mighty pile, 
 
 Tiie Colossus makes four. 
 
 There's also here the gunboat Scout, 
 The Amphion cruiser, swift to rout 
 All distant schemes, however stout, 
 
 And some Torpedo boats. 
 If England's enemies can flout, 
 And say her army's got the gout. 
 
 Her navy never doats. 
 
 Exploring souls to Ephesus ; 
 Proclaim it a tremendous muss, 
 A weary day and lots of fuss. 
 
 And scarce a thing to see ; 
 i^onkeys, and shanks, and nary bus, 
 On Cook they shower a frequent cuss 
 
 Because he gave no tea. 
 
56 
 
 For dinner they are very late, 
 With weary feet and aching pate, 
 They seem to think an unkind fate 
 
 'S been urging them along. 
 But then to to-morrow temperate. 
 By sleep restored they'll up to date, 
 
 For sight-seeing be strong. 
 
 March 12. 
 Reach Dardanelles at hour of one, 
 From shore booms out the warning gun, 
 And stops the vessel's onward run 
 
 Till entering firman's got ; 
 To say your waiting now is done. 
 They don't allow (it may seem fun) 
 
 Entrance when day is not. 
 
 The morning brings a heavy fog. 
 So on our course we scarcely jog. 
 Till we've devoured our morning prog. 
 
 And then a start's begun. 
 We mark on either side incog. 
 In green redoubt stern war's prologue. 
 
 The grim distructive gun. 
 
 We pass, and leave Gallipoli, 
 Where little interesting can be, 
 The coasts in undulation free. 
 
 Are nothing out of course. 
 And into Marmora's wider sea, 
 We enter, losing rock and tree. 
 
 And seek out fresh resource. 
 
07 
 
 The sun is down before we come, 
 Into the picture of the hum 
 UfTurkish life, the soul and scum 
 
 Of all the Crescent's heart. 
 (iraml the unveiling, striking dumb 
 The eloquent of heart and some 
 
 Who've not that better part. 
 
 Bravely uptower in terraced height, 
 Doiui', minaret and palace might, 
 Offering in truth a kingly sight, 
 
 And one to hold the gaze ; 
 'Mid gardens, interspersing, bright, 
 The hundred thousand twinkling light 
 
 Proclaim a fancy phase. 
 
 The hundred vessels anchoring lie, 
 Close under banks that rise on high. 
 In sheltering harbour to defy 
 
 The fiercest winter gales ; 
 The many small boats, darting by, 
 Like gleaming, fluttering butterfly. 
 All speak in fairy tales. 
 
 'Twas always so ; no one yet Sorn, 
 Ilowe'er he held the Turk in scorn, 
 Could fail to see in Golden Horn, 
 
 Aught but what's fairy land. 
 The rest I'll leave until the morn. 
 It's raining hard, and, p'raps, forlorn, 
 
 Will be the show so grand. 
 
58 
 
 March 13. 
 The morning makes a brighter show, 
 It's overcast but cloud lets go, 
 As if they wished us all to know, 
 
 The weather would improve. 
 We cannot see the heavenly bow, 
 But risking chances, shoreward go, 
 
 In Turkeyland to rove. 
 
 We hire a dragoman sedate ; 
 An aged Jew, with grizzled pate, 
 Whose creed's not overwhelmed in fate, 
 
 And bid him go ahead. 
 He shows us hotels second rate, 
 And guides us where our man of state. 
 
 Sir Clare Ford's, kept and fed. 
 
 Sir Clare receives us affably ; 
 We say we've great desire to see 
 The Sultan's stately treasury. 
 
 Where art and beauty tlwell. 
 He says, all right, but bucksheesh fee, 
 Is twenty pounds 'tween you and me, 
 
 So curious craving fell. 
 
 Then, hotels trying one by one. 
 We pass them all as things to shun, 
 Until we reach that eldest son 
 
 Of hostels. Hotel Royal. 
 We tarry there, and take luncheon, 
 'Twas only fair— the wines no fun 
 
 For any Briton loyal. 
 
We then in photographs invest, 
 They're not the dearest or the best, 
 And working on a scenting quest, 
 
 We buy some pretty flowers. 
 They're cheap, but hardly up to test. 
 Of flowers whose petals are caressed, 
 
 And outcome of spring showers. 
 
 And then, of course, the Turks delight, 
 What does the Harem close beilight, 
 With all the strength of sweetness' might, 
 
 We must give it a try ! 
 It holds the jaws in grasp most tight, 
 But everyone a second bite 
 
 Essays when it is nigh. 
 
 And so on board, for steamer bed, 
 W.: 11 lid's of Turkish house ahead, 
 And equal is the way we're fed. 
 
 And better far the bath ! 
 To-morrow, hoping to be led, 
 By dragoman, and not o'er bled, 
 
 On new and fairer path. 
 
 March 14. 
 Again we wake as morning mist, 
 In silv'ry dimness waters kissed, 
 And skies down-reaching seem abyssed 
 
 In vast mysterious void. 
 But as the sun takes strengthened grist, 
 Soon light evolves and shakes a fist 
 
 At gloom that much annoyed. 
 
()0 
 
 We go aslioru, and laiiil in mire, 
 Of water viijw \vc cannot lire, 
 But apprehend a mishap dire, 
 
 As craft they come and go. 
 Our dragoman's perchance a liar, 
 But then it's difficult to hire 
 
 A thing of truth, you know. 
 
 We go into the vast Sophia, 
 
 And think the dome siiould perhaps be hightr; 
 
 Of inlaid stone we fetl we tire, 
 
 hi slippers need a rest ! 
 Oh, mus&ulman, your funeral pyre 
 Should be the shoes you and ycnir sire 
 
 On Christians' feet have pressed. 
 
 We see the Sultan's palace vast. 
 And meet his relatives ; their caste 
 Is evident and of the past, 
 
 Those good old times gone by. 
 His wives look sweet, but cannot last, 
 They hide their laces, look aghast 
 
 Whene'er a man is nigh. 
 
 1 
 
 We see in Sweet waters the fleet ; 
 It's ancho>-ed there, and doesn't meet 
 The Tival ships, that love to greet 
 
 The flags of nations played. 
 We haven't seen the dervish feat. 
 No doubt the show's a blooming treat. 
 
 But then it's onh trade. 
 
61 
 
 VVi; buy ii liltlt; Turkish art ; 
 Our dragoman ilocs ample j'art, 
 To l)riiig the ever varying mart 
 
 Within our purse's scope ; 
 Ami things that make malignant start, 
 And rob us of our western heart, 
 
 Come down to modest cope. 
 
 We much admire the Porte Sublime, 
 
 And fiel it up to any rliyme ; 
 
 \V( think the Turkish manhood prime, 
 
 And more than up to par. 
 The i!! paved streets, and drains, and grime, 
 Wu think have need of sand and lime ; 
 
 We jeer at railway car. 
 
 March 15. 
 Calm on water morning breaks, 
 Mist, with sunrise, farewell takes, 
 Thoughtful muse o'er this day's cakes, 
 
 llojte they may prove sweet. 
 Dragoman says Bosj)liorous rakes, 
 Most applause from ducks and drakes 
 
 Travelling Moslems' beat. 
 
 Fix an arly hour for start ; 
 Wait an age ! time's here no dart 
 Where the prophet's major part 
 O'er Christian God, or Jew. 
 OfT's at last our apple cart, 
 Feast our eyes on Bosph'rus chart, 
 And its glorious views. 
 
 I 
 
Took from steamer well |)ackf(l lunch ; 
 I'rovtjs, when wanted, ineresl Imm li, 
 Of a sauilwich for the hinuli 
 
 Of our faint ciuarlelte ; 
 Kach receives the sorriest munch, 
 Dragoman gets scarce a crunch, 
 
 But plenty wine to wet. 
 
 We gaze around, and burn in sun, 
 And almost wish excursion done, 
 For, failing lunch, there's little fun. 
 
 At least we're tlinsly seized. 
 We often stcip on upward run 
 To pick up Moslem, son of gun, 
 Or let them off when pleased. 
 
 Most grand the scenery, fair and bold, 
 The places' names are promptly told, 
 Hut don't >tay long in memory's hold. 
 
 Being very hard to catch. 
 And now to view I^lack Sea's outroU'd, 
 Wind from its waters icv cold, 
 
 Pneumonia'll likely hatch. 
 
 Then turning, journey do again, 
 Direction dilTert'iit, change to brain, 
 Kre finished, feeling niiich the strain. 
 
 For one and all we lire. 
 This seeing sights' tremendous drain 
 If physique's not of toughest grain. 
 
 On strands of hardest wire. 
 
It is till' Sultan's natal day, 
 Another uifu beneath his sway 
 Will swell the circle of tua-trav, 
 
 Wiiliin the harem walls ; 
 And cannon echo round the h.iy, 
 And fireworks make a fairy play, 
 
 And dervish frisks and bawls. 
 
 The city dogs to-night will howl, 
 
 As thro' the streets their usual prowl 
 
 Tliev make with threal'ning hark and growl, 
 
 111 search of garliage fcod. 
 Tile sweet domestic Turkish fowl, 
 Will crow with consonant and vowd. 
 
 And dream of coining brood. 
 
 And dervihhcs v i'l dance and yell, 
 
 In rhytl :ni.; jig. ;, wild pell-mell, 
 
 They ki.ow heir si ow's the biggest sell 
 
 That ; 0T5 -jew to-day. 
 The lively iMuezzin prayers will tell, 
 And think that Christian soul in hell, 
 
 For Moslems forced to pray. 
 
 The city's in a famous riot. 
 
 Only old Mejid's palace's quiet, 
 
 Faint burn the twinkling lights anigh it. 
 
 The ladies are from home. 
 Sniiie nnl)K; Vanki'e, perhaps, may buy it, 
 And go in for a Turkish diet, 
 
 And worship 'nealh a dome, 
 
 
(\[ 
 
 Most graciously the weather served, 
 Much better, perhaps, than we deserved, 
 For in our training we'd been nerved, 
 
 To look for smooth with rough. 
 And this fair trip has little curved, 
 Save when the waves have topsy-turved, 
 
 Or food's not good enough. 
 
 March i6. 
 To-day we'll spend upon the brine ; 
 We've left behind the crescent sign, 
 Thro' Marmora's sea a foaming line, 
 
 We churn upon our wake. 
 The morning opens scarcely fine, 
 And now in deluge showers incline, 
 
 The ocean seas to rake. 
 
 We see afar Olympus height, 
 
 The summit is with snow alight, 
 
 And winds descend with piercing might 
 
 From Jove, who sits thereon. 
 The deck is not a cheerful sight, 
 Our spirits hang on .sunshine bright, 
 
 Flag when the sun is gone. 
 
 Now passed is Byron's Abydos, 
 And where Leander swam across, 
 And many a tarn and many a foss 
 
 Obscured by rain and mist. 
 And many a Pachalik, whence dross 
 Is rung out to the peasant's loss, 
 
 By cruel official fist. 
 
or. 
 
 K.isv to stc the times arc dull, 
 My link' imisc rtqtiirns this hill, 
 To fit lirr for to-morrow's pull 
 
 On shores of classic Greece ; 
 Such air must on the thickest skull, 
 Produce edcct as spirit full 
 
 As dew on Jason's fleece. 
 
 March 17. 
 We're anchoring in Pirceus Bay ; 
 The capital some miles away, 
 Tlie scene of choicest earlier lay, 
 
 The iiome of much that's grand. 
 Tlie boats around the steamer play, 
 A franc a head they charge each way. 
 
 And not too much, to lani'. 
 
 Ashore we creep on leaden feet ; 
 The Greek is slow upon his beat. 
 So that he earn his daytime leat, 
 
 What matter for the rest. 
 I can't extol the rowing feat, 
 Tho' vouching for the rowers heat, 
 
 We hope he feathers nest. 
 
 We gel a carriage, onward drive, 
 
 To Athens, where things modern strive, 
 
 With w hat of old's much more alive, 
 
 111 columned form ami art. 
 Iliings look like any western hive, 
 Only the glorious ruins shrive 
 
 And cjuicken modern heart, 
 
G6 
 
 Acropolis and Parthenon ; 
 
 Who has not writ and dwelt thereon, 
 
 What father, mother, daughter, son, 
 
 But's looked, and thought and mused ; 
 And then upon their way have gone, 
 And scarcely felt they've looked upon 
 
 The glories they enthused. 
 
 Your guide book con for every sight ; 
 'Tis only favoured souls aright 
 Can picture worth of Grecian might 
 
 As it was once displayed. 
 But fancy may in chastened light, 
 E'en in its present havocked plight. 
 
 See once how bright arrayed. 
 
 Oh, saddened town that sleeps below. 
 All the great dead, time's overthrow, 
 S.iy, dig and delve, if you will know 
 
 The wonders that have been. 
 The pilgrim throng, that to and fro. 
 These countless years admiring go, 
 
 Not half our glory's seen. 
 
 Think of our worth ere Rome began, 
 Ere Judah worked its lasting span ; 
 Persia, that early in the van. 
 
 From Egypt learned of us. 
 Ere Arab sands sent forth the Man, 
 The myriad crowd of Hindostan 
 
 Had heard our splendid fuss. 
 
67 
 
 With our full art, if small in scope, 
 What nation has not tried to cope. 
 And found they lacked th' eternal rope 
 
 That we had learned to swing ; 
 Knnuino; no restraint ! our anchor hope, 
 Our soul-force owned no earthi}' pope ! 
 
 Our strength was in its spring. 
 
 But are th se beauteous ruins dead ; 
 
 Is ihrre Ui) force wherein vet's fed, 
 
 Th'' things that have been done and naid, 
 
 To raise them to new life. 
 Must shi'ttered column stand in stead 
 (jf what before had millions fed, 
 
 And held a people's strife. 
 
 None's the reply ; the dead is past. 
 Ami long time silence marks the last 
 Of Oreece that once a shadow cast. 
 
 O'er other earth, as sun. 
 These are the colours nailed to mast, 
 Shv, wove them and ihey flutter fast, 
 
 Mere memory of what's done. 
 
 In Athens' streets is modern dust, 
 .Mayhap mi.xed up with olu-time rust 
 It has the new world's dirtv lust, 
 
 To traveller to cling. 
 It fouls the wicked with the just ; 
 O'er modern as on ancient bust 
 
 It spreads its covering. 
 
GS 
 
 March i8. 
 Still within Piraeus bay ; 
 Rain has fallen, fresh'ning da)-, 
 Cold in sliadt', hut 'neath sun's ra)-, 
 
 Safe you foel from chill. 
 Ship will soon hv on her wav, 
 So we slop on board and play 
 
 Quoits, the time to kill. 
 
 Others yearning for the shore, 
 
 Make an early start to pour, 
 
 All thi'ir knowledge and tlie more, 
 
 I'liat the fj^uide books give ; 
 To interpret columned lore. 
 Frieze, and other carving store, 
 
 That in death still live. 
 
 Stand once more on hill of Mars, 
 Think of Paul, and other stars, 
 And their teaching, tho' it jars 
 
 With that cultured past. 
 Theseus, Hermes, grandpapas ; 
 Socrates 'hind prison bars, 
 Giant shadows cast. 
 
 Superstitious needs you were, 
 Athens' folk mid scenes so rare, 
 Living in an art so fair, 
 
 Temples so god-like. 
 Nature's life could scarce compare 
 With the art 'neath genius' care. 
 Sculptor's hand did strike. 
 
09 
 
 Ship should start at half-past three, 
 But the captain has a bee ; 
 Greece's king, with heir, must see 
 
 What the ship is like. 
 Kin^' and son take champagne tea, 
 Charm the men with bonliomie, 
 
 And the ladies strike. 
 
 Wortliy Georgius, King of Greek, 
 Vour demeanour must be meek, 
 For your kingdom's but a streak, 
 
 In ihi' nations vast. 
 But your sisters fair, did seek, 
 (irand alliance and if you're weak, 
 
 They'll be allies fast. 
 
 So ii's nearly half-past five, 
 Kre tho sliij) is quite alive 
 And we farther westward drive 
 
 For more homeward calls. 
 Corfu in Ionia's hive. 
 Was tiie land whereto we'd strive, 
 
 But pestilence appals. 
 
 So we change, and Syracuse 
 
 Next en route our showmen choose ; 
 
 There we'll see if Arethuse 
 
 Toes the historied mark. 
 Gladly shall we all excuse 
 Slips if sleeping gods infuse 
 
 Hearts with vital spark. 
 
70 
 
 Athens town we scarcely miss, 
 Wondrous tlic Acropolis 
 To llu; antiquary bliss, 
 
 Surface's soon explored. 
 King of Greece, your hand we kiss, 
 Fear your life's in an abyss, 
 
 Feel you're often bored. 
 
 Perhaps in idi ini)ry you'li ittain 
 How t'ach wotihy German thane. 
 Or his fran ineiined to sfrain, 
 
 As music liaiUd your call. 
 How tlh hauffhiy Yankees crane 
 Necks as tho' their souls would fain 
 
 At your feet to fall. 
 
 All day Sftent on restless wave, 
 Roll with motion, full and grave, 
 Serious 'tis to some who save 
 
 Vessel's food supply. 
 Many heads now getting brave. 
 Call the swell a gentle lave, 
 
 Soothing lullaby. 
 
 No land this day meets our view. 
 Distant looms a ship or two. 
 Morning showers our decks bedew. 
 
 Make them rather damp. 
 Up to time our faithful screw 
 Makes a very small to do. 
 
 Measured is our tramp. 
 
71 
 
 Hut as sun asserts its powers, 
 
 Quick, dispersing? spring-tide showers 
 
 Waves with deeper blue endowers ! 
 
 (lenerai prochiim. 
 (Iratcfiil ti'rms, these languid hours, 
 Gazing into Neptune's bowers, 
 
 Praising him when tame. 
 
 I 
 
 We learn to-day that as Corfu, 
 Is plague invested we, in lieu. 
 May stop at Malaga and view, 
 
 The coast of good old Spain. 
 Tiiey can't allow us time to do 
 Tile grand Alhambra, ever new. 
 
 So there'll be little gain. 
 
 Our little friend to-day is ill ; 
 
 When weather's fine she takes her fill. 
 
 And says she has a mighty will 
 
 That sickness can defy ; 
 IU\[ in a swell her rounded gill. 
 Is blanched, and then her busy bill 
 
 Gets idle, parched and dry. 
 
 Last night a German herr did make 
 Some fun on deck, and pleasure take, 
 Earlier, no doubt, his thirst did slake 
 
 With many bocks of beer. 
 He isn't young, nor looks a rake, 
 I fear this morn his head must ache. 
 
 And stomach's doubtless queer. 
 
72 
 
 And now my little daily tale 
 Betrays a subject getting stale ; 
 When glad you cannot raise a wail, 
 
 In plenty famine find. 
 A change to land we trust to iiail, 
 To-morrow when we'll gaily sail 
 
 Sicilian waters kind. 
 
 March 20 
 Morning comes and threatens rain, 
 Syracuse is nigh and fain 
 All would go insight to gain, 
 
 Of her various shows. 
 Rasher people leave the main, 
 Less excited zeal restrain, 
 
 Travelling, caution grows. 
 
 Cloud comes off the land and lowers. 
 Moisture falls in humid showers. 
 Bred o'er bright Sicilian bowers. 
 
 Breaking o'er the sea ; 
 Life instilling into flowers, 
 Tourist tempers somewhat sours. 
 
 Checking movements free. 
 
 So we lunch, and then proceed 
 In a boat on shore to feed 
 On the Syracusan mead 
 
 For us all outspread. 
 Dion's ear, where prisoned plead 
 Victims of a tyrant's greed. 
 
 Art reveals what said. 
 
7:i 
 
 (Irccian theatre of stone, 
 Flainlv tells discomfort's moan 
 Of ilie folk who ached in bone, 
 
 Stated here to view ; 
 All the art that Greece might loan, 
 All the worth that then was known, 
 
 Thespian Cult being new. 
 
 Art-thiisa's stream's a joke, 
 Carp and pa[)vrus may poke 
 In and out thy basin soak, 
 
 As a show it's small. 
 .M\lliif Goddess, why invoke 
 Such a sight, it shows you're broke, 
 
 When such stock you call. 
 
 Church and museum, Latomiae, 
 .\ll are very slow to see, 
 Scarcely worth attendants' fee, 
 
 Tire us pretty well. 
 S(i our quartette all agree 
 To adjourn for early tea 
 
 To a bad hotel. 
 
 Tea we all refuse to drink ! 
 Light Ptiarsala then, we think, 
 Ripples easier o'er the brink 
 
 Of our present need. 
 Thus we forge the latest link 
 Of our trip at evening's blink, 
 
 Hail our steamer steed. 
 
74 
 
 Couldn't SCO old i'Ktna's hoad, 
 Tho' \vt' searched with glass and fed 
 All our fancy, live and dead, 
 
 For the envied sight ; 
 Took the paths that higlu st le<l, 
 That this nioDnt, volcano hred, 
 
 We might see aright. 
 
 Mused on Pan, Km[ie(loeles, 
 
 Scented (lowers, and dreamed of fleas; 
 
 God and goddesses would grease 
 
 For a jtastful dream. 
 Pipes in nightmare never cease. 
 Shepherd youths and dames at ease, 
 
 In procession stream. 
 
 March 21. 
 
 Malta to-day, and the Maltese ; 
 
 The morning's wet, when will it cease, 
 
 This rain that comes to temper tease. 
 
 At time inopportune. 
 The wily pedlar of the seas, 
 The Maltese merchant, can't appease. 
 
 The' he may purses prune. 
 
 We watch a man who peddles horn, 
 O'er prisoned birds and monkeys mourn 
 Or little puppies lately born. 
 
 We'd like to buy them all. 
 The rugs we hold but things to scorn, 
 O'er lace designs with craving fawn. 
 
 View spongf and coral trawl. 
 

 \\\ hope and pray that wcalhcr'll clear, 
 And bo it docs, crc noon is near, 
 So take a boat ai make for pier. 
 
 In carriage ,v liotel. 
 Tlir jilacc beiii^' fill, its scarcely cjueer 
 Atcdininodation's scant and dear 
 
 To buy, but not to sell. 
 
 \V( manage at the Hold Grand, 
 
 To j;tl a lunch, a bit off hand, 
 
 iiiil still as good as you'll command 
 
 In towns of minor sort. 
 Tin beef a little youth would stand, 
 Tlic uine's, of course, an unknown brand, 
 
 Tart claret and young port. 
 
 We see the governor's residence. 
 And think the gardens an offence, 
 For want ■ are and want of sense 
 
 In all its laying out. 
 The carp in ponds arc not immense, 
 We prowl about and going hence, 
 
 Arc not inclined to pout. 
 
 Wo visit guns, and forts, and trench. 
 Musing on what the Russ. or French, 
 Would do the Briton's power to quench, 
 
 If war should be declarti. 
 Wi- look at ironclads fit to clench, 
 Willi Europe's navies if a wrench, 
 
 In Europe's map were dared. 
 
ifi 
 
 'I'licn visit church of San Giovan, 
 And think o( t-acli grandmaster man, 
 Wiio worked in order such a phtn 
 
 As here to sii^hl nmains. 
 A niif,dity guild, a stalwart clan, 
 Whose creed with figliting sternly ran. 
 
 Whose honour knew no slain. 
 
 We drive about the stone-wall'd isle, 
 In carriage comfort, many a mile. 
 And wonder how can nature smiU-, 
 
 So "cabined, cril)bed, confined." 
 Chaotic strikes Valetta's pile 
 Of buildings, and the farming style 
 
 Seems strangely poor of kinil. 
 
 Tis eventide, digestion's grave ! 
 We worry thro' a dinner brave, 
 The Teuton cook, a sorry knave. 
 
 Has proudly ordered up. 
 We're steaming smoothly o'er the wave, 
 And praying providence may save 
 From every bitter cup. 
 
 O'er night we had an accident, 
 'Tis sorry fate ! on pleasure bent. 
 When one is from our number rent, 
 
 If of tiie iiaser sort. 
 A youthful steward headlong went 
 Down gangway, and of fate's intent 
 
 'S gone to eternal port. 
 
I\I\KC 
 
 ir II. 
 
 7'lit'stin is niouriting f^oUieii lar, 
 Win II otT the toast of Marsala, 
 We're .sleeping, so its wry far 
 
 To our obsLTvinp sight. 
 We ilrram of wines whose c:heapnes.s tiiar 
 Aihilteriite schemes and ahnosl bar 
 
 The tippler getting tight. 
 
 The water's smootli, the weather fair, 
 
 Trapani's j)ast and Castlenier, 
 
 A eoasi that might the hardiest dare 
 
 To scale's before our eyes. 
 Qiiiiinl villages on coast or air, 
 Aiul slopes of verdure, almost bare, 
 
 In panorama rise. 
 
 We're getting into Palermo, 
 Our jj.ice is dignified if slow, 
 li's not that coal is getting low, 
 
 Hill that its price is high. 
 We'll lunch, and after, shoreward go. 
 Ami perhaps a little wiser grow, 
 
 As to the where and why. 
 
 We've been ashore and seen some sights ; 
 
 We yield Sicilians all the rights 
 
 or cleanliness, and views from heights 
 
 As good as can be found. 
 We think Palermo's days and nights 
 Seem up to all the modern liglits, 
 
 They suit us down to ground. 
 
 I 
 
7H 
 
 Catlicilral's scarcely up to mark, 
 Tlic li^'liting, as, of course is dark, 
 The paintiug good, the sculpture stark, 
 
 The carving fine but worn. 
 And then wc traverse Flora's park, 
 To feathered tribe attentive hark, 
 
 But think the show forlorn. 
 
 Giovanni's ruined chapel see. 
 
 It isn't much, but there's no fee, 
 
 And flowers are bright, where bumble-bee 
 
 May honey sip and make. 
 And thence to Palmes Hotel we flee, 
 And call for wine and evening tea. 
 
 And [)ay a modest stake. 
 
 A cab we hail, make for the quay. 
 The ship is floating on the lee, 
 A modest half-franc is the fee 
 
 To put each soul aboard. 
 The boatman says he won't agree 
 On such a charge, but sets us free, 
 
 When more we won't afTord. 
 
 March 23. 
 Brightly breaks Sicilian dawn, 
 Wake with feeling newly born. 
 Feel no better world can scorn, 
 
 OfTering of such day. 
 Ail is gay, no cnalures mourn, 
 Flowers are blooming, sprout ing's corn, 
 
 All make praiseful say. 
 
7n 
 
 S' cue to claim the giddiest eye ; 
 Picture slowest, jterhaps, to die, 
 Graven thought, nothing to buy, 
 
 Far from moneyed worth. 
 Memory oft will backward hie 
 To this town of Sicily, 
 
 Phase of fairest earth. 
 
 Visit church remotely old, 
 Mauorans' mosaic and gold, 
 Slill tells of the craftsmen bold 
 
 Labour never slurred. 
 ('liai)el Palatine, whose mould. 
 Dales to years which back out-rolled, 
 
 When the Conqueror warred. 
 
 Palace see with marble halls ; 
 Kings have fattened in its walls. 
 Beauty graced its many balls 
 
 Joy had ample part. 
 Little admiration calls, 
 As a show, and lowly falls 
 
 At the feet of art. 
 
 >rarlorana's of the past ; 
 
 Shrine 'fore which Sicilians cast. 
 
 Pronely forms, and ties made fast 
 
 'Tween the priest and lay. 
 Haml restoring wreckage vast, 
 Can yoM work an art to last 
 
 Like to this decay ! 
 
HO 
 
 Tlicre is an exhibition on, 
 
 O'er feebler, sun can not have shone, 
 
 It seetns as iho' no one has gone 
 
 To gaze upon its scenes. 
 Its pictures and its arts we con, 
 hs industries then muse upon. 
 
 Admire its flowers and greens. 
 
 But tiring, soon desert the show. 
 Seek {)urer air, wliere fresher blow 
 Kaeh flowi-r and shrub, as if they know 
 
 They spin not nor do toil ; 
 Their life-time work is but to grow 
 From seed that man or nature sow 
 
 In their maternal soil. 
 
 March 24. 
 To-day we do fair Monreale ; 
 Out of Palermo easy call, 
 Tlie cabmen try to make a haul, 
 
 Hut back to tariff slide. 
 The guide books knavery forestall, 
 They make a claim, and loudly bawl. 
 
 But quickly put off side. 
 
 The drive is mostly very tame, 
 Thro' city streets all sadly same, 
 The beggars flock, athletic, lame, 
 
 Hut always on the ask. 
 Sicilian gentleman and dame. 
 We can't accord you beauty's fame, 
 
 Tho' 'neath fair sun you bask. 
 
81 
 
 But Monnale's Diioino, 
 
 Can ainpK; part of huaiily show ; 
 
 ]\Io.saics may come, mosaics ,t,'o, 
 
 Voiirs are uniquely fjiiaint. 
 Your beggars make a fairish show, 
 Your priests have eyes for friend and foe. 
 
 For sinner and for saint. 
 
 Your tombs betoken years gone by ; 
 Your choristers in music vie 
 Willi London music hall, or cry 
 
 Of vendor on the street. 
 With penitent you'll doubtless sigh. 
 And then you'll wonder if — or why 
 
 His prayers are taken neat. 
 
 We watch a dame confession make ; 
 
 The father thinks the fee at stake 
 
 Will s( arcely bread or sweet-meat bake, 
 
 And "winks his other eye" 
 At visitor he'd burn at stake. 
 Or plunge into the brimstone lake, 
 
 Save that the show they buy. 
 
 We see a villa and some grounds ; 
 r.isia 'tis called -some Count with pounds, 
 Knough to keep him out of bounds- 
 Is owner, ami allows 
 The curious after sights and sounds, 
 lo eiiicr in and make the rounds ; 
 The fee the guide endows 
 
82 
 
 And now we've done Palermo's sights ; 
 Hotel dc Palmes your table lights, 
 Our gastronomic soul affrights 
 
 In usual table d'hote ; 
 O'er all such fare we soared as kites, 
 And so enjoyed more cheerful bites, 
 
 And food whereof to quote. 
 
 And thus we finish Sicily ; 
 
 Its biggest boom we shall not see, 
 
 Stern Etna's mount is not to be 
 
 Sight on this touring list. 
 What will our friends exclaim, when we 
 Rejoin them o'er the bounding lee, 
 
 And tell them what we've missed. 
 
 Fair town, I leave you with regret ; 
 Your streets are clean, one need not fret. 
 That surely you'll malaria get 
 
 Unless vou use quinine. 
 We'll term Palermo, gilded pet 
 Of eastern cities that we've met, 
 
 Because she's quaintly clean. 
 
 March 25. 
 See lovely Naples, yearn and die ; 
 Whence comes this now an antique cry. 
 Was it that smells as weird as dry, 
 
 Killed right and left ; 
 Or was it that some poet's sigh 
 From life went out in ecstasy. 
 
 When of thy views bereft. 
 
^^^ 
 
 83 
 
 And what's the journal of to-day ; 
 As morning dawns we make the bay, 
 Most formal prayer can scarcely say 
 
 Ere coaling ship begins. 
 We're here to make some little stay, 
 Not working, but for merest play, 
 
 On jaunt composed of grins. 
 
 We've gazed a while at fabled bay ; 
 Hotels are jammed, no room for pay, 
 We lunch at " Grand " in middling way, 
 
 And take a little walk. 
 View fishes in acquaria ; 
 Watch polypi eat crabs, and pray 
 
 They'd use a knife and fork. 
 
 We shop a little, walk in park. 
 Admire some ladies fair and dark, 
 Adore Vesuvius rising stark 
 
 From out the middle sea. 
 The view is misty but we mark 
 Nature's phenomena in lark, 
 
 Bright, if not gaily free. 
 
 Muse o'er the things we ought to do, 
 And musing think they grow loo-too, 
 Condense the mass into a few. 
 
 Limit the things to see. 
 A guide, with features like a Jew, 
 And very fat, says we will rue 
 
 If him we do not fee. 
 
 < 
 
 i»'«^ 
 
^/m 
 
 84 
 
 But then we've seen the lovely bay, 
 And years agonc quaint Pompeii ; 
 Island C^npri, and Grand Musde, 
 
 And Dante's well known tomb. 
 Ac(]uaria, too, where fishes play, 
 So Cumix' and Avernus way, 
 
 Will almost sweep the room. 
 
 Return to ship ; she's taking coal, 
 The decks and crew a dirty whole, 
 You scarcely see a decent soul, 
 
 Within the ship array ; 
 And tliniiip^ thus, the dish and bowl. 
 And shelter of the cabin goal 
 
 Arc better far away. 
 
 March 26. 
 Land, and bring ashore our traps, 
 Pass the customs, no mishaps. 
 All's politeness I excise chaps 
 
 Make our landing ease ; 
 England's ports are freer p'raps, 
 But her servants' manners' lapse 
 
 Often raise a breeze. 
 
 Rooms at " Grand " we find they keep, 
 Beds not made, floors they sweep, 
 'Tis the season tourists weep 
 
 While the hotels smile ! 
 Into hotel list we peep. 
 Write our names and slowly creep 
 
 O'er the floors of tile. 
 
85 
 
 Some delay, the noontide nears, 
 Ere we start as lazy seers 
 In a carriage — full of fears 
 
 Of our horses' powers ! 
 Driver for Pompeii steers, 
 Cracks his whip and fiercely jeers, 
 Coaches passing ours. 
 
 Drive through dirty Naples east, 
 Eves on squalid horrors feast, 
 Dust with every mile increased, 
 
 Road is long and dull. 
 Each nag proves a willing beast, 
 But their feeding's of the least, 
 And of toil they're full. 
 
 Sick is driver, sick each steed, 
 Ere we Pompeii reach, proceed ; 
 Thro' the ruins walk and read 
 
 Of the silent dead. 
 With our guide so far agreed, 
 As we understood, then foed 
 
 As we would be fed. 
 
 * I 
 
 ?r V the dog the ashes caught, 
 iiai -c' -j.\ fcrms who early fought 
 Eively battU-s ere death wrought 
 
 Everlasting change. 
 Markfd where p'raps the schoolman taught. 
 Where the arts we - u -^rked : nd sought. 
 
 Saw no stock ex« h\iige. 
 
HG 
 
 And this in years so long gone by, 
 When world was young, tho' scarcely shy, 
 And yet we're sad that friends so nigh, 
 
 Could shake no friendly hand. 
 E'en Pliny, of a science sly. 
 Had scarcely time wherein to (ly, 
 
 From tufa, ash and sand. 
 
 And now for eggs we'll have a poach, 
 Then mount our very tardy coach ; 
 Driver, a bottle you shall broach, 
 
 If dinner's reached in time. 
 So bribed, the city we approach. 
 Much o'er the dressing-bell encroach, 
 
 But close on dinner chime. 
 
 March 29. 
 
 Sunday this; Cathedral grand 
 Do — don't like the beggar band 
 P'verywhere with out-stretched hand, 
 
 Asking for relief. 
 Don't admire the priestly stand 
 Fore the altar, or stall canned, 
 
 Doling joy or grief. 
 
 See the end of grand high mass. 
 Think the whole would scarcely pass 
 In theatric comic farce 
 
 As amusing show. 
 Much admire the man and lass, 
 Parching throat, a glass of Bass 
 
 Very gladly 'd know. 
 
87 
 
 Walk the streets and watch the crowd ; 
 Naples may be very proud 
 Of a people world allowed, 
 
 As a people kind. 
 Richly thus she is endowed, 
 Many a lustier nation's bowed, 
 
 In lier arms reclined. 
 
 lint there -fo much grosser stains, 
 Sec how lower life-blood drains, 
 •Mark how conflict human brains 
 
 With the beasts' estate. 
 Cruel bits, and goads, and reins ; 
 Hud, some saviour grant, these chains 
 
 Break, or else abate. 
 
 For the horrid tortures seen, 
 In the streets of Naples mean. 
 That o'er souls is spread a screen. 
 
 O'er the sight a veil. 
 Human torture may have been, 
 Ikru with brutes the torments' green, 
 
 E'en to sights that fail. 
 
 God regarding all, we wot, 
 Garners judgment, every jot. 
 Pain bestowed by cruel sot. 
 
 Will return in kind. 
 Heavenly joys for hardest lot, 
 Burning pains of hell, red hot, 
 
 For the mercy blind. 
 
H8 
 
 March -8. 
 Make a trip to Grand Mus6e, 
 Look at tilings from PonijR'ii, 
 Gaze at pictures far away 
 
 In a by-gone art. 
 Spend a very tiresome day, 
 Or a morning, Mu ees gray 
 
 Head, and st.il tli. heart. 
 
 Look at things Correggio, 
 (Taste of some old masters' low) 
 Frescoed grouping Allegro 
 
 Biblical reprints. 
 Christians and the serpent foe, 
 Satan, in severest glow 
 
 Of Satanic tints. 
 
 Mosaics, medals, quaint antiques. 
 Kitchen things and cooking ut-aks, 
 Pompeiian kettles full of leaks, 
 
 Mummies ghastly show. 
 Roman relics, arts of Greeks, 
 Birds four-footed, beasts with beaks. 
 
 All in tiresome row. 
 
 Artists trying to earn a meal, 
 Making copies which reveal 
 Little that can bear the seal 
 
 Of a counterpart. 
 As you pass they turn on heel. 
 Leave their art and try to feel 
 
 Purse or pocket heart. 
 
i 
 
 4KW 
 
 89 
 
 III thi^ ^irioi , art caroust', 
 Hculs or tails we feebly souse, 
 MiMly uVr tlie medals browse, 
 
 Pictures closer scan. 
 A pctile the whole endows, 
 1 uiij^i-r 1) '.jcs. thirst allows 
 
 Toss lui bet' r man. 
 
 So we Itave these halls of art ; 
 In a larriage make a start, 
 Fk.iii hotel, museum's apart 
 
 Many a weary rood. 
 I»nnight consunu-s, and hunger's dart, 
 Rousts ever craving heart. 
 
 Into dreams of food. 
 
 Luncheon done, we shopping ; 
 StHing sights must tiresome giuw 
 II )<)U do not take it slow 
 
 And digest with time. 
 ' 'no of us, the only beau 
 S off a little, don't you know, 
 
 Slack as burning lime. 
 
 Perhaps I spoke of him before, 
 When fiends in Salem vitals tore, 
 He kindly all the burden bore. 
 
 Acting most friendly part. 
 No fondest friend e'er proffer'd more 
 Than he, whose praises I out-pour, 
 
 God bless his feeling heart. 
 
m 
 
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 16b3 East Mom Street 
 
 Rochester. Ne* York 14609 U-^A 
 
 (716) 482 - 0300 - Phone 
 
 (716) 288 - 5989 - Fox 
 
90 
 
 March 29. 
 
 Morning opens up with rain, 
 Stormy show upon the main, 
 So we deem it thing insane 
 
 Going far afield. 
 Eyes to sky we sadly strain, 
 Hoping soon the dismal drain 
 
 Unto sun may yield. 
 
 Intermittent seems to be 
 Prospect's meteorology, 
 Wind exults and waves in glee 
 
 Dash against sea wall. 
 So we one and all agree 
 To defy the wind and sea, 
 
 Risk what may befall. 
 
 Rain puts on a vigour new, 
 Best thing now that we can do 
 Is to spend an hour and view 
 
 Shops and their contents. 
 Purchase photos, future sue. 
 Unto memoried things gone through, 
 
 Thoughts and sights and scents. 
 
 To hotel for lunch prepared. 
 Sumptuously each day we fared ; 
 Beds are small and no one dared 
 
 Toss about in sleep, 
 Paid our bill and never stared, 
 Items for amount declared ! 
 
 Total not too steep. 
 
•Il 
 
 91 
 
 Weather's bad, so backward hie, 
 Seek the ship, her form descry, 
 Towering o'er the craft that ply 
 
 Europe's inland sea. 
 Mighty ironclads lying by, 
 Almost dwarfed to casual eye 
 
 By proximity. 
 
 Evening's quiet, for all are tired. 
 City lights have been admired, 
 Nothing's left to be desired, 
 
 But the travellers' friend. 
 Sleep, the gift that can't be hired ! — 
 Swift in slumber's coils we're wired. 
 
 Trustfully depend. 
 
 March 30. 
 Once more in a little boat. 
 O'er the placid waters float, 
 Weather's chill, an overcoat 
 
 Vainly wished I'd brought. 
 Damp suggests a painful throat, 
 And a loss of gold or note 
 
 If the doctor's sought. 
 
 Tries to rain, and new alarms, 
 Rack us lest the city's charms, 
 Henceforth yield no fairy balms 
 
 To fascinate the eye. 
 Her olives and her lc'"ty palms. 
 Her churches, and the thousand psalms. 
 
 We'd hear, were weather dry. 
 
02 
 
 We're seated in a carriage close, 
 And upwarci climbing where Elmo's 
 In giant ruin overgrows 
 
 Tlie beauties of the bay. 
 A grand conception hi-, who chose 
 Such site and made the pile that rose 
 
 To castled monarch sway. 
 
 Thro' precincts of San Martino 
 
 We walk, with interest, guide does show 
 
 What Benvenuto's hand made grow, 
 
 What other talents wrought. 
 What lUionaparte's power laid low, 
 Where monks in darkened vaults a slow 
 
 Existence daily fought. 
 
 March 31. 
 Back in beauteous Palermo, 
 No one here ashore does go, 
 For a stay's not in the show, 
 
 Merely passing call. 
 Then we'll go as flies the crow. 
 Where the Moorish damsels blow, 
 
 Algiers, neath the Gaul. 
 
 Something causes some delay, 
 And till noon we tranquil lay 
 In this brigtit romantic bay 
 
 W-'-Mng for a start. 
 Papc, he ship, some say, 
 Arn't made out in proper way, 
 
 Likely ; but not smart. 
 
IK! 
 
 Matter's settled, now we're off, 
 Kre tlie hour for luniicon trough 
 (long makes clamour and we doff 
 
 Hats to eat our grub. 
 Tho' at cooking we may scoff, 
 Sliow contempt with sneer or cough, 
 
 Tuck is still our hub. 
 
 On the deck a little row 
 
 O'er some foreheads drives a plough. 
 
 Nations mixed, one can't endow 
 
 With like etiquette. 
 Yank asks German as to how 
 Yankee chair he can't allow 
 
 To remain where set. 
 
 II 
 
 I! 
 
 German fails to understand, 
 Perhaps he can't, and Yankee hand 
 Lifts him by the collar band, 
 
 And removes the chair. 
 Teuton temper's well in hand, 
 Perhaps he feels for Yankee land, 
 
 Perhaps he ooesn't dare. 
 
 Captain's sought to make the peace ; 
 Loses temper ere they cease 
 Ironing out this ruffled crease 
 
 Of ship'rule and form. 
 Teuton threatens short-life lease 
 To the man who pulled his fleece ; 
 
 Pretty is the storm. 
 
 ri 
 
94 
 
 Yankee's from Col'rado's State ; 
 Land become \v(!ll-kno\vn of late, 
 As resort when cruel fate 
 
 Sits upon your lungs 
 State of mines and up to date, 
 Cow and horse ranchc desolate, 
 
 Whiskey kegs and bungs. 
 
 But a j)atchcd-up peace is made, 
 Neither's scared, but both afraid, 
 Duelling is the German's trade, 
 
 Yank likes rough and tumble. 
 Threats are uttered, gossip played, 
 F'riends of either party said 
 
 Heroes needn't grumble. 
 
 Ship is now inclined to roll. 
 And that little dark-eyed soul. 
 Maiden Kthel, pays the toll. 
 
 Of a flutt'ring frame. 
 Like a bashful, shrinking mole. 
 Shrinks into her cabin hola 
 
 Feeling very tame. 
 
 April i. 
 Day of fools, and wise men too. 
 What's the difTercnce as you view 
 Stem or tree from which you grew, 
 
 ]\Iade or gained career. 
 One may bake and one may brew. 
 Jack is poor, Tom well-to-do, 
 Yet in brains they're near. 
 
or. 
 
 Little Ethel Boucherville 
 On this anniversary's ill, 
 Can't her chair at breakfast fill, 
 
 Sits upon the decks. 
 Doesn't smile, and slays quite still, 
 Sighs to think the ocean's will 
 
 Little Ethel's wrecks. 
 
 Day is nionumently dull. 
 Skies obscure and winds' in lull 
 Siiip seems stagnantly to pull 
 
 Wearied course along. 
 Thicker seems the densest skull. 
 Each one is with travel full. 
 
 Tired are weak and strong. 
 
 No one wants to-day to fight, 
 General notion is to write ; 
 One good gentleman gets tight, 
 
 Tries his wife to spoon. 
 She resents, not deeming right 
 That such silly deeds should light 
 
 See, of feeblest moon. 
 
 So the morn to evening creeps, 
 No one o'er such passage weeps. 
 For the general wish in heaps 
 
 Goes towards the shore ; 
 Ardent soul thereto in leaps. 
 Sluggish heart more temp'rate keeps, 
 
 All yearn less or more. 
 
April 2. 
 Rain comes down in solid pour ; 
 Ili'avcnly windows, heavenly door, 
 All are open, threatening,' more 
 
 Of th. i sadtl'ning (low. 
 Shall we make our way ashore, 
 Or remain on board to bore 
 
 Selves and those we know ? 
 
 Rain in fair and dry Algiers, 
 Not expected by sight- seers, 
 Seeking smiks, we're finding tears. 
 
 From the skies above ; 
 And increasing mount our fears, 
 Lest no future sunlight cheers 
 
 Ere we westward move. 
 
 Make up minds to leave the ship ; 
 Rain keeps up a constant drip, 
 Pleasant shower bath could one strip. 
 
 Catching damp descent. 
 But in clothes we fear the grip. 
 Or the joints rheumatic nip. 
 
 Perhaps the twain enblent. 
 
 Drive a course of, perhaps, three miles. 
 Thro' a region full of smiles, 
 Swear at weather that beguiles 
 
 By its varying showers. 
 Torrents fall at frequent whiles. 
 Then in drizzle's different styles. 
 
 Sweetest tempers sour. 
 
 I 
 
07 
 
 Choose a lunch from menu lean, 
 III a room that's dull and mean, 
 Hotel Continental's seen 
 
 Best from the outside. 
 Flowers abound and verdure's green, 
 iJeauteous landscape this, I ween, 
 
 If the rain- fall dried. 
 
 Take a little walk to height, 
 
 dazed on scenes that should be bright. 
 
 Found the roads in sorry plight. 
 
 Soiled my boots and clothes. 
 Misty skies make distant sight, 
 Thing as dim as if the night 
 
 Hid what darkness loathes. 
 
 April 3. 
 Rain again ! how very sad ! 
 Every tourist says, too bad ! 
 Englis'.imen exclaim, By gad ! 
 
 Wish I hadn't come. 
 But ere noon the prospect's glad, 
 Clouds have broken, sun for fad 
 
 Cheers and breaks the gloom. 
 
 Streets are full of mud and dirt, 
 But the foliage shows a spurt. 
 Only seen if nature flirt 
 
 With heaven's wat'ring pot, 
 Every flower is looking pert. 
 Speaking language bright and 'rt 
 
 Of contented lot. 
 
OM 
 
 Streets are gay with motley throng, 
 All the nations here belong, 
 Eiirop'^, Asia, Afric strong 
 
 And United States. 
 Dwellers here can hardly long 
 For their homes, or homesick song, 
 
 Save of loves and hates. 
 
 Lovely sparkles gay Algiers, 
 When she dries the copious tears, 
 Weeping for the lives she fears 
 
 For her shrubs and flowers. 
 Pleasant now thro' streets one peers, 
 Gazing up to height that rears, 
 
 O'er sweet nooks and bowers. 
 
 Tried the Oasis hotel, 
 Continental's later belle ! 
 Europe House essay as well, 
 
 All a middling lot. 
 Cuisine vague and wines a sell, 
 If of vintages you tell, 
 
 But the best we got. 
 
 Ship's again upon her way, 
 Earliest stop's in Lisbon's Bay 
 When I'll have a word to say 
 
 Of the dons and port. 
 Perhaps I'll strike a happier lay 
 When we next at anchor stay, 
 
 Perhaps be better taught. 
 
99 
 
 Aprh. 4. 
 Wake in seas of haughty Spain, 
 Sierras frown down o'er the main, 
 In our speed we sliow a gain, 
 
 Making seventeen knots. 
 Vanished's every dream of rain. 
 Weather's gorgeous, sea a plain. 
 
 Life is free from spots. 
 
 Over all good humour dwells. 
 Harmony's 'tween beaux and belles. 
 General iiope is that bar sells 
 
 Soon we'll say adieu 
 To the nasty cooking smells. 
 To the sea and human swells, 
 
 To the ship and crew. 
 
 Frequent steamers, many sails 
 Pass, o'ertake, when eyesight fails 
 (jiasses raise what distance veils 
 
 To a brighter light. 
 Dream of Bay of Biscay gales, 
 See some seals, but sharks and whales 
 
 Don't appear to sight. 
 
 Dinner's done, Gibraltar nears, 
 Said my say of rock that rears 
 Head erect o'er Spanish tears, 
 
 Inland ocean's gate. 
 Rock that English heart endears, 
 Fortress of the hopes and fears 
 
 Of the countries' fate. 
 
lOU 
 
 Day lias been a trifle long, 
 Tho' the air is bright and strong 
 Passt-ngers on deck don't throng, 
 
 Many go to shii-p. 
 Set-king dreams, where right or wrong 
 Comes to brain in brighter song 
 
 Tluin the ghissy deep. 
 
 Fonrtli of April ; four days more 
 And we'll be a day from s' -)re, 
 PaekiiiL; iip's an awful i)()re 
 
 When you've little space. 
 Wish our s[)oil of foreign store 
 Were diminished, one in four. 
 
 Shekels in its place. 
 
 April 5. 
 Morning gray and threat'ning breaks. 
 Mercury in glass first quakes. 
 Then a plunge desponding makes, 
 
 Prosp(H-ts, wind and rain. 
 Very sad when travt>ller wakes, 
 To behold these heavenly lakes 
 
 Trying clouds to drain. 
 
 Passed Cape Vincent hours ago ; 
 Lisbon's port we soon shall know, 
 Don't mean port of muddy glow 
 
 But haven and anchorage. 
 'Tis said at four we'll surely go 
 Breasting tho Tagus' downward flow, 
 
 And reach our final stage. 
 
lUl 
 
 The morning's been exceeding flat, 
 The decks were wet, where'er you sat 
 The general feeling's this or that, 
 
 lUil griiniblingly inclined. 
 A stodged old pussy with a rat, 
 T\v(j deaf men making cheerful chat, 
 
 I\Iav illustrate niv mind. 
 
 lUit weather seems inclined to clear, 
 And in the distance' now ajjpear 
 The smoking ship, or sailing gear 
 
 Of tramps upon the biine, 
 I'll close tin; ilaily record lit re. 
 And hope, tho' hope contains a ft-ar, 
 
 That on the shore we'll dine. 
 
 Al'KIl. 6. 
 We came ashore last night at five, 
 And for an hour in vain did strive 
 To find a homi; where we might thrive, 
 
 Or with some comfort dine. 
 The best hotels were all alive 
 With guests, who doubtless bus'ness drive 
 
 In cork or native wine. 
 
 At last we strike the Alliance, 
 Landlady speaks the tongue of France, 
 Its outward show did not entrance, 
 
 Interior was s,orse. 
 Not trusting to a casual glance. 
 We think we'll sink hotel romance. 
 
 And open here our purse. 
 
102 
 
 The rooms are mean, the dinner bad, 
 
 The whole menage a trifle sad, 
 
 Tlif wine not such to make one glad, 
 
 Attendance somewhat slow. 
 And, thing that drives ns furthest mad 
 Is that the waiter, dark- eyed lad. 
 
 Speaks nothing that we know. 
 
 W.> sleep, hut with a vague unrest, ■ - 
 The beds not bad, but not the l>est. 
 The noise in streets a night-long pest; 
 
 Tlie Portuguese are gay. 
 The Dons their all, 'twould seem, invest 
 In carriages that ply with zest. 
 
 By ni^ht as well as day. 
 
 So all demands an early rise ; 
 Sights may exist that will surprise. 
 The morning tub you can't surmise, 
 
 No baths in this hotel. 
 Our breakfast order's mild'' wise, 
 But not the same as house supplies 
 
 And bill is wild as well. 
 
 We get a coach and hire a guide, 
 The latter's English, has a slide, 
 That often takes him very wide 
 
 Of what we're fain to learn. 
 Trusting to coachman's knowledge dried, 
 His ignorance he does confide 
 
 And gives us lore in turn. 
 
103 
 
 \Vc see the sights, the kingly halls 
 At Belim, and the equine stalls, 
 Tlie carriages, whose state appals 
 
 Proud Lusitania's dons ; 
 The sight a little flatly falls ; 
 Immense the state, the keeping galls 
 
 On what we know of " spons." 
 
 Then luiich at house Braganza named, 
 The first hotel in Lisbon famed, 
 A town so large should be ashamed 
 
 To call it first or good. 
 The cooking might be justly blamed, 
 In many a Yankee town untamed, 
 
 Tho' wine made better food. 
 
 The usual little shopping do. 
 
 The shopman strive to undersue. 
 
 But soon nerceives who wears the shoe, 
 
 Tha likely first to pinch. 
 He knows the b'.>gain he can't rue ; 
 You feel a wiser, poorer crew, 
 
 Just when you bargain clinch. 
 
 Aboard we move, the day is done, 
 Still high in firmament's the sun. 
 We've had our final bit of fun. 
 
 Upon our programme cruise ; 
 And now as thro' the Bay we run, 
 We'll hope the half digested bun 
 
 Of joy we're not to lose. 
 
104 
 
 April 7. 
 Nothing eventful this day's morn 
 Breaits to sense when tiibb'd and shorn, 
 We seek our breakfast with the scorn 
 
 That comes for want of change. 
 The babe 'tis true, when newly born, 
 Can on one diet crow and mourn, 
 
 But men want wider range. 
 
 Bacon and ham, no doubt, afford 
 A dish to strike the palate chord, 
 And eggs as catholic are broad. 
 
 To form a toothsome dish ; 
 But one must brave digestion hoard. 
 If chops or steak upon the board 
 
 Usurp the place of fish. 
 
 The bay of storms is getting near, 
 But still the land's in sight, and drear 
 Its distant mountain heights appear 
 
 To wearied passing sight. 
 We've packed a little, in the fear 
 That Biscay's swells may render queer. 
 
 Our manhood and our might. 
 
 But dinner's done and still the sea 
 Is tranquil and the sky is free, 
 From clouds that tell of storm to be. 
 
 And sun went mildly down. 
 The prospect is that we shall see 
 In early morning England's lea, 
 
 And soon reach London's town. 
 
 
 f 
 
 2«' 
 
orn, 
 rn 
 
 ir 
 
 ;r, 
 
 1U5 
 
 It's counting chickens ere you hatch, 
 But prophets are obliged to snatch 
 From future mysteries in batch, 
 
 Or else vocation's gone. 
 So ere we lift the Channel's latch, 
 A storm may come, the worst to match 
 
 That time gone-by has done. 
 
 April 8. 
 Laid down to rest last night in thought, 
 That ere the morn we might be taught 
 Some secrets of the bay that's wrought 
 
 Such havoc in the past. 
 But morning light no motion brought. 
 And feeblest soul its breakfast sought. 
 
 Nor dreamed of painful fast. 
 
 For sea is like a mirror lake. 
 No ripples o'er the water make, 
 A surge to give a mouse a quake. 
 
 Or wreck a walnut shell. 
 The atmosphere holds more in stake. 
 The foghorn tones on hearing break, 
 
 And misty horrors tell. 
 
 Four hours we go at slackened speed, 
 We grudge time lost with envious greed. 
 Our doubting hearts begin to bleed, 
 
 And conjure up delay. 
 But ere to lunch we sit and feed, 
 The fog has lifted and our steed 
 
 Is bounding on her way. 
 
106 
 
 There's little left to do but pack, 
 And fee the waiters now on rack, 
 Conjecturing what their little whack 
 
 May be for work's return. 
 They doubtless feel they've bent the back, 
 And in attendance ne'er been slack 
 
 Our smallest wish to learn. 
 
 I hope they'll all be satisfied ; 
 I trust that on to-morrow's tide 
 We'll o'er Southampton water glide, 
 
 And safely reach the shore. 
 I hope the excise will confide 
 In what we state, nor think we hide 
 
 Of contraband a store. 
 
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