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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre fiimds d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes '-uivants illustrent la mdthode. 2 3 32X 1 [ 2 3 4 5 6 .^. I / fnilms Mmn\mts of €tmnm. Kh.- ADVENTURE OF A TRAVELLEIl IX HUNGARY. 11 Cf INCIDENTS AND NAE RAT IVES OF TRAVEL, IN W EUROPE, ASIA, AFRICA AND AMERICA, \^;r.'-'i IN VARIOUS PERIODS OP HISTORY. _ , , . -•■,.- - ■' ...--» r "' -♦ BY JOHN FROST, LL. D. ^•¥- 111 AUBURN AND BUFFALO: JOHN E. BEARDSLEY. /v'u'J^V > ,' ' ' l> t SI i' •V Eutorod according to Act of Cougross, in the your 185*2, by JOHN F II S T, In tho Cork's Office of tho District Court of tho United States, in and for tho Eastern District of Pennsylvania. '^ ' \, , V '.:. j 'l-:,\* I '!v I.''' i .'■/ ■T ' .) .' >■-■.[ i' ■' PREFACE. There is a cliaiiu in " perilous adventures,** which few readers can resist ; and, accordingly, books containing thrilling narrations of exploits and escapes are generally popular. Most per- sons peruse tliese books for amusement; but it is obvious that such works as the one we now present to the public mu8t be full of important instruction. The dangers attending travel in various modes and in various parts of the world; the characteristics of the people and countries observed by the adventurous travel- lers, and what sufferings men may endure, and what contrive, to surmount the greatest dan gers and difficulties, are to be gathered from these pages ; and surely such knowledge is wor- thy of attention. With most young persons books of travel are PREFACE. favourites. The names of Mungo Park and others who have encountered terrible difficul- ties in exploring countries before unknown are familiar as " household words." Even the fic- titious attractions of Robinson Crusoe and Gul liver's Voyage to Lilliput do not give them the superiority, in the youthful estimation. The desire to see other lands and other people, be- sides those among which we are bom and reared is common. All, however, have not the means of gratifying themselves in this particular ; and to those who are compelled to remain at home, narratives of adventurous travel must be a source of pleasure. To such, especially, our copious collection with its many illustrations, may be recommended. t :■%.".* r ' •*■ •" •<» r»^»l ■••' •* " '• CONTENTS. , , J ', e ; If .-. Adtentitrks or a Travellir in HcKQARr 9 Adventdre on the tSr. Lawrence 21 Adventures or Mr. Williah Mariner 30 Adventure upon the Road 45 NoTE3 or A Traveller in Texas 50 Singular Encounter with a Coura di Gapello 65 Tremendous Eruption or Mount Vesuvius 68 Adventures or James Bruce in ArRiCA 72 Adventures or John Ledtard 82 Adventures or Mungo Park 86 M. Simond in Sivitzerlano 92 Cavaliero's Adventures in Egypt 99 A Winter in the Arctic Regions 106 Perilous Ascent or Adam's Peak, in Ceylon 110 Adventures or Burckhardt 117 A Traveller's Encounter with Albanese Brigands ....135 Adventures in Mexico 141 Adventures in California 180 UouGiiiNG it in Canada 212 TnE Indians or Canada 223 Encounter m'itk the Banditti and Smugglers or Anda- lusia 254 Heetino an Iceberg in the Northern Ocean 259 Adventures in Circassia '. 262 Encounter with Robbers in Turkey -277 Adventures in Oregon 282 Terrible Shipwreck at tub Cape or Good Hopb 297 Ascent or Mont Blanc by Mademoiselle D'Angevillb . .299 8 CONTENTS. Loss or TOE Vbtheid 308 Adyentcres vpon the Upfer Missouri 313 Wreck of the Forfarsuire Steamboat 326 The Crocodile Battery 330 Shipwreck at King's Island 346 Adyenture and Exploit of two Guides 350 Destruction of an East Indiaxan by Fire 358 Adyentures in the Tyrol 363 Perilous Adyenture of Lieutenant Slidell. in Spain... 372 Another Adyenture of Lieutenant Slidell with Rob- bers IN Spain 382 Adyentures of Lieut. Col. Denhah in Africa 390 Visit of Mr. Ford to St. Yuste, the last Residence of Charles Y 398 Sufferings of a Part^ on Frankun's Journey to the Polar Sea 406 An Earthquake Adyenture in Italy 445 Adyentures of Captain Head in Canada 457 Adyentures of an English Trayeller at an Elephant Hunt in Nepaul 481 Adyentures of Capt. Golownin's Party in Japan 491 Loss of the Blendenhall 496 Mr. Borrow's Adyentures among the Gipsies in Spain .609 Excursion to the Great St. Bernai^d, by an English Lady 532 PERILOUS ADVENTURES , AND THRILLING INCIDENTS OF TRAVELLERS ADVENTURE OF A TRAVELLER IN HUNGARY. (See Frontispiece ) i HIS story was told me, says a recent •writer, by an Italian officer, who was ser- ving, at the time he fif St learned it, with the * Grande Armde' of Napoleon. It seems to me to con- tain one of the most striking, most dra- matic, and terrible scenes that can be conceived, and I have only to regret that I lack the ta- lent or power of tell- ing the tale of horror so well as it was told to me. It was a few weeks before the termination of the 10 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. • 1 i short, but (for Austria) fatal campaign of 1809 — that campaign which, begun nobly by the Austrians, ended in their seeing Buonaparte dictate to their prostrate empire from their capital, and shortly after claim as his bride the daughter of the sovereign he had so in- jured and humbled — that an Hungarian horse-dealer left Vienna to return to his home, ■which was situated in an interior province of his country. " He carried with him, in paper-money and in gold, a very considerable sum, the product of the horses he had sold at the Austrian capital. To carry this in safety was a diflScult object just at that time ; for troops, French and Austrian, w^ere scattered in every direction, and he knew by experience, that it was not always safe to fall in with small parties of soldiers, even of his own country or government, (to say 'nothing of the French,) but that Croats, and wild Hussars and Hulans, and others that fought under the Austrian eagle, were seldom over-scrupulous as to " keeping their hands from picking and stealing," when opportunity was favourable or tempting. The dealer, however, relied on his minute knowledge of the country he had traversed so, often ; on the bottom and speed of his thorough-bred Hungarian horse; — and having obtained what he considered good informa- tion, as to the posts occupied by the belligerents, and the range of country most exposed to the soldiery, he set out from Vienna, which he feared would soon be in the hands of the enemy. He went alone, and on his road carefully avoided, instead of seeking the company of other travellers, for he reasonably judged, that a solitary individual, meanly dressed as he was, might ADVENTURE OP A TRAVELLER IN HUNGARY. 11 escape notice, while a party of travellers would be sure to attract it. " "^ By his good management he passed the Hnngarian frontier unharmed, and continued his journey home- ward by a circuitous unfrequented route. On the third night after his departure from Vienna, he stopped at a quiet inn, situated in the suburbs of a small town. He had never been there before, but the house was comfortable, and the appearance of the people about it respectable. Having first attended to his tired horse, he sat down to supper with his host and family. During the meal, he was asked whence he came, and when he had said from Vienna, all present were anxious to know the news. The dealer told them all he knew. The host then inquired what business had carried him to Vienna. He told them he had been thereto sell some of the best horses that were ever taken to that market. When he heard this, the -host cast a glance at one of the men of the family who seemed to be his son, which the dealer scarcely observed then, but which he had reason to recall afterwards. When supper was finished, the fatigued traveller re- quested to be shown to his bed. The host himself took up a light, and conducted him across a little yard at the back of the house to a detached building which contained two rooms, tolerably decent for a Hungarian hostel. In the inner of these rooms was a bed, and here the host left him to himself. As the dealer threw off his jacket and loosened the girdle round his waist where his money was deposited, he thought he might as well see whether it was all safe. Accordingly he drew out an old leathern purse that contained his gold, 12 PEKILOUS ADVENTURES. l;.i and then a tattered parchment pocket-booi CiiUi /^avol- oped the Austrian bank notes, and finding that both were quite right, he laid them under the bolster, extin- guished the light, and threw himself on the bed, thanking God and the saints that had carried him thus far homeward in safety. He had no misgiving as to the character of the people he had fallen amongst t6 hinder his repose, and the poor dealer was very soon enjoying a profound and happy sleep. He might have been in this state of beatitude an hour or two, when he was disturbed by a noise like that of an opening window, and by a sudden rush of cool night air; oi^ raising himself on the bed, he saw peer- ing through an open window which was almost imme- diately above the bed, the head and shoulders of a man, who was evi(]^tly attempting to make his ingress into the room that way. As the terrified dealer looked, the intruding figure was withdrawn, and he heard a rum- bling noise, and then the voices of several men, as he thought, close under the window. The most dreadful apprehensions, the more horriole as they were so sudden, now agitated the traveller, who, scarcely knowing what he did, but utterly despairing of preserving his life, threw himself under the bed. He had scarcely done so when the hard breathing of a man was heard at the open window, and the next minute a robust fellow dropped into the room, and, after staggering across it, groped his way by the walls to the bed. Fear had almost deprived the horse dealer of his senses, but yet he perceived that the intruder, whoever he might be, was drunk. There was, however, slight comfort in this, for he might only have swallowed wine to make it. ADVENTURE OF A TRAVELLER IN HUNGARY. 13 i him the more desperato, and the traveller was convinced he had heard the voices of other men without, who might climb into the room to assist their brother villain in case any resistance should be made. His astonish- ment, however, was great and reviving, when he heard the fellow throw off his jacket on the floor, and then toss himself upon the bed under which he lay. Terror, however, had taken too firm a hold of the traveller to be shaken off at once, — his ideas were too confused to permit his imagining any other motive for such a mid- night intrusion on an unarmed man with property about him, save that of robbery and assassination, and he lay quiet where he was, until he heard the fellow above him snoring with all the sonorousness of a drunk- ard. Then, indeed, he would have left his hiding-place and gone to rouse the people in the inn to get another resting-place instead of the bed of which he had just been dispossessed in so singular a manner, but, just as he came to this resolution, he heard the door of the outer room open — then stealthy steps crossed it — then the door of the very room he was in was softly opened, and two men, one of whom was the host, and the other his son, appeared on its threshold. ' "Leave the light where it is," whispered the host, "or it may disturb him and give us trouble." *'' " There is no fear of that," said the younger man, also in a whisper, " we are two to one ; he has nothing but a little knife about him — he is dead asleep too ! hear how he snores !" " Do my bidding," said the old man sternly ; " would you have him wake and rouse the neighbourhood with his screams?" 2 14 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. As it was, the horror-stricken dealer under the bed could scarcely suppress a shriek, but he saw that the son left the light in the outer toom, and then, pulling the door partially after them to screen the rays of the lamp from the bed, he saw the two murderers glide to the bed-side, and then heard a rustling motion as of arms descending on the bed-clothes, and a hissing, and then a grating sound, that turned his soul sick, for he knew it came from knives or daggers penetrating to the heart or vitals of a human being like himself, and only a few inches above his own body. This was followed by one sudden and violent start on the bed, accom- panied by a moan. Then the bed, which was a low one, was bent with an increase of weight caused by one or both the murderers throwing themselves upon it, until it pressed on the body of the traveller. There was an awful silence for a moment or two, and then the host said, '' He is finished — I have cut him across the throat — take the money. I saw him put it under his bolster." . i-.-.-rt.-<^-*:i'i*«*.';. '^'A if i' ^.taJ--.««» magistrate with the traveller and some half dozen armed men ran to the stable door — this they opened, and found within the host and his son digging a grave. The first figure that met the eyes of the murderers , was that of the traveller. The efiect of this on their ... guilty souls waS too much to be borne : they shrieked, , and threw themselves on the ground, and though they . were immediately seized by hard griping hands of real flesh and blood, and heard the voices of the magistrate and their frionds and neighbours denouncing them as murderers, it was some minutes ere they could believe . that the figure of the traveller that stood among them was other than a spirit. It was the hardier villain, the father, who, on hearing the stranger's voice con- tinuing in conversation with the magistrate, first gained sufficient command over himself to raise his face from the earth ; he saw the stranger still pale and haggard, but evidently unhurt. The murderer's head spun round confusedly, but at length rising, he said to those who 16 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. i| .; .1 ' ! held him, " Let me see that stranger nearer ; let me touch him — only let me touch him !" The poor horse- dealer drew back in horror and disgust. "You may satisfy him in this," said the magistrate, <' he is unarmed and unnerved, and we are here to pre- vent his doing you harm." *'^^- '*^^' ~ On this, the traveller let the host approach him, and pass his hand over his person, which when he had done, the villain exclaimed, " I am no murderer ! who says I am a murderer ?" " That shall we see anon," said the traveller, who led the way to the detached apartment, followed by the magistrate, by the two prisoners, and all the party which had collected in the stable on hearing what passed there. Both father and son walked with considerable confi- dence into the room, but when they saw by the lamps, the night-watch and others held over it, that there was a body covered with blood, lying up?n the bed, they cried out, "How is this! who is this!" and rushed together to the bed-side. The lights were lowered; their rays fell upon the ghastly face and bleeding throat of a young man. At the sight, the younger of the murderers turned his head, and swooned in silence ; but the father, uttering a shriek so loud, so awful, that one of the eternally damned alone might equal its effect, threw himself on the bed and on the gashed and bloody body, and murmuring in his throat, " My son ! I have killed mine own son !" also found a temporary relief from the horrors of his situation in insensibility. The next minute, the wretched hostess, who was inno- cent of all that had passed, and who was, without to ADVENTURE OF A TRAVELLER IN HUNQART. 17 lence ; 1, that kal its id and son! j)orary [bility. inno- Kthoat knowing it, the wife of a murderer, the mother of a murderer, and the mother of a murdered son— of a son killed by a brother and a father, ran to the apartment, and would have increased tenfold its already insup- portable horrors by entering there, had she not been prevented by the honest towns-people. She had been roused from sleep by the noise made in the stable, and then by her husband's shriek, and was now herself, shrieking and frantic, carried back into the inn by main force. ^ The two murderers were forthwith bound and carried to the town gaol, where, on the examination, which was made the next morning, it appeared from evidence that the person murdered was the youngest son of the landlord of the inn, and a person never suspected of any crime more serious than habitual drunkenness; that instead of being in bed, as his father and brother had believed him, he had stolen out of the house, and joined a party of earousers in the town : of these boon companions, all appeared in evidence, and two of them deposed that the deceased, being exceedingly intoxi- cated, and dreading his father's wrath, should he rouse the house in such a state, and at that late hour, had said to them that he would get through the window into the little detached apartment, and sleep there, as he had often done before, and that they two had accom- panied him, and assisted him to climb to the window. The deceased had reached the window once, and as they thought would have got safe through it, but drunk and unsteady as he was, he slipped back; they had then some difficulty in inducing him to climb again, for in the caprice of intoxication, he said he would rather 2* 18 PEUILOUS ADVENTURES. ' '* • , i r* go to Bleep ivith one of his comrades. Hoyrever, he had at last effected his entrance, and they, his two comrades, had gone to their respective homes. The wretched criminals were executed a few weeks fter the commission of the crime. They had con- fessed every thing, and restored to the horse-dealer the gold. and the paper-money they had concealed, and which had led them to a deed so much more atrocious than even they had contewplftted. -.*,.'!,<( i ^^: ?«lr ■nl j;'^ :f.- . f z,- > ' flM I ,t.^.. fm'?'-. IE ( • ;■(, ■■ f' • ... .*■.,'.:, .^'U. y, H 03 M a H o H KS ADVDM'ORE DN THE ST. LAWRENCE. HE following niivrative of a remarkable adven- ture on the St. Law- v_- rence, appeared a num- ^-- ber of years ago in a Liv • L^^ erpool newspaper, where ti^;; it was voucliod for as "^ true in every pui-ticnlar : " On the 22d of April, 1810, our party set pmII in a large schooner from Fu;t George, or Nijigjr.-M Town, in Upper Canada, and in two <]ay,s crt).s.scd Lake ()iit;irio to Kingston, at the head of the river St. Lawrence, dis- tant fiom Niagara about 200 miles. Ifcre we hired an American bar^je — a largo {'.at-bottoincd boat — to carry us to Montreal, a further distatico of 200 miles: then set out from Kingston on tlie 2(Sth of Aj)iil, and arrived the same evening at Ogdenbui'gh, a distance of 75 miles. The following evening we arrived at Cornwall ; and the succeeding night, at Pointe du Lac, on Lake St. Francis : here our bargemen obtained our permission to return up the river : and we embarked in another barge, deeply laden with potashes, passengers, nnd luggage. Above Montreal, for nearly 100 miles, the river St. Lawrence is interrupted in its course by rapids, which are occasioned bv the river being con- I 22 PERILOUS ADVENTIIIIES. fined within comparatively narrow, shallow, rocky chan- nels : through these it rushes with great force and noise, and is agitated like the ocean in a storm. Many people prefer these rapids, for grandeur of appearance, to the Falls of Niagara ; they arre from half a mile to nine miles long each, and require regular pilots. On the 30th of April, we arrived at the village of tho Cedars ; immediately below which are three sets of very dangerous rapids — the Cedars, the Split-Rock, and the Cascades — distant from ef.ch other about one mile. On the morning of the 1st of Mi«y, we set out from the Cedars ; the barge very deep and very leaky ; the captain, a daring, rash man, refused to take a pilot. After wc passed the Cedar Rapid, not without danger, the captain called foi some rum, swearing at the same time Avith horrid impiety that all the powers could not steer the barge better than he did. Soon after this, we entered the Split-Rock Rapids by a wrong channel, and found ourselves advancing rapidly towards a dreadful watery precipice, down which we Avent. The barge slightly grazed her bottom against the ri)ck. And the fall was so great as nearly to take a»7ay the breath. We here took in a great deal of water, which was mostly baled out again before we hur- ried on to what the Canadians call the grand bouillie, or great boiling. In approaching this place, the captain let go the helm, saying: "Now for it! here we fill!" The barge was almost immediately overwhelmed in tho midst of immense foaming breakers, which rushed over tlie bows, dairying away planks, oars, &c. About half a minute elapsed between the filling and going down of the barge, during which I had sufficient pre- ■1 J i ADVENTURE ON THE ST. LAWRENCE- 23 eence of mind to strip off my three coats, and was loosening my suspenders, when the barge sank, and I found myself floating in the midst of people, baggage, &c. Each man caught hold of something ; one of the crew caught hold of me, and kept m ' • own under water ; but, contrary to my expectations, let me go again. On rising to the surface, I got hold of a trunk, on which two other men were then holding. Just at this spot where the Split-Bock Rapids terminate, the bank of the river is well inhabited, and we could see women on shore, running about, much agitated. A canoe put off, and picked up three of our number, who had gained the bottom of the barge, which had upset and got rid of its cargo: these they landed ou an island. The canoe put off again, and was approaching near to where I was, with two others, holding on by the trunk ; when,' terrified with the vicinity of the Cascades, to which we were approaching, it put back, notwithstanding my ex- hortations in French and English, to induce the two men on board to advance. The bad hold which one man had of the trunk to which we were adhering, sub- jected him to constant immersions; and in order to escape his seizing hold of me, I let go the trunk, and in conjunction with another man, got hold of the boom — which, with the gaff, sails, &c. had been detached from the mast, to make room for the cargo — and floated off. I had just time to grasp this boom, when we were hurried into the Cascades: in these I was instantly buried, and nearly suffocated. On rising to the sur- face, I found one of my hands still on the boom, and my companion also adhering to the gaff. Shortly after descending the Cascades, I perceived the bftrge, bottom 24 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. upwards, floating near me. I succeeded in getting to it, and held by a crack in one end of it ; the violence of the water, and the falling out of the casks of ashes, had quite wrecked it. For a long time, I contented myself with this hold, not daring to endeavour to get upon the bottom, which I at length effected ; and from this, my new situation, I called out to my companion, who still preserved his hold of the gaff. He shook his head; and when the waves suffered me to look up again, he was gone. He made no attempt to come near me, being unable or unwilling to let go his hold, and trust himself to the waves, which were then rolling over his head. " The Gascade3 are a kind of fall or rapid descent in the river, over a rocky channel below : going down is Called by the French sauter — to leap or shove the Cascades. For two miles below, the channel continues . in uproar, just like a storm at sea ; and I was frequently nearly washed off the barge by the waves which rolled over it. I now entertained no hope whatever of es- caping ; and although I continued to exert myself to hold on, such was the state to which I was reduced by cold, that I wished only for speedy death, and frequently thought of giving up the contest as useless. I felt as if compressed into the size of a monkey; my hands appeared diminished in size one half; and I certainly hould — after I became very cold and much exhausted — have fallen asleep, but for the waves that were pass- ing over me, which obliged me to attend to my situa- tion. I had never descended the St Lawrence before ; but I knew there were more rapids ahead — perhaps another set of the Cascades — but, at all events, the ADVENTURE ON THE ST. LAWllENCE. 25 La Chine Rapids, whose situation I did not exactly know. I was in hourly expectation of these putting an end to me, and often fancied some points of ice, ex- tending from the shore, to be the head of foaming rapids. At one of the moments in which the succession of waves permitted me to look up, I saw, at a distance, a canoe, with four men, coming towards me, and waited in confi- dence to hear the sound of their paddles ; but in this I was disappointed: the men, as I afterwards learned, were Indians, — genuine descendants of the Tartars — who, happening to fall in with one of the passenger's trunks, picked it up, and returned to the shore for the purpose of pillaging it, leaving, as they since acknowl- edged, the man on the boat to his fate. Indeed, I am certain I should have had more to fear from their avari oe than to hope from their humanity ; and it is more than probable that my life would have been taken, to secure them in the possession of my watch and several half- eagles which I had about me. The accident happened at eight o'clock in the morning ; in the course of some hours, as the day advanced, and the sun grew warmer, the wind blew from the south, and the water became calmer. I got upon my knees, and found myself in the small lake St. Louis, about three to five miles wide : with some difficulty, I got upon my feet, but was soon convinced, by cramps and spasms in all my sinews, that I was quite incapable of swimming any distance, and I was then two miles from the shore. I was now going, with wind and current, to destruction ; and cold, hungry, and fatigued, was obliged again to sit down in the water to rest, when an extraordinary circumstance greatly relieved me. On examining the wreck, to see a 26 PERILOUS ADVENTUllES. if it were possible to detach any part of it to steer by, I perceived something loose, entangled in a fork of the wreck, and so carried along : this I found to be a small trunk, bottom upwards, which, with some diflSculty, I dragged up upon the barge. After near an hour's work, in which I broke my penknife, whilst trying to cut out the lock, I made a hole in the top, and, to my great satisfaction, drew out a bottle of rum, a cold tongue, some cheese, and a bag full of bread, cakes, &c. all wet. Of these I made a seasonable, though very moderate use ; and the trunk answered the purpose of a chair to sit upon, elevated above the surface of the water. sv>,: *' After in vain endeavouring to steer the wreck, or direct its course to the shore, and having made every signal-^with my waistcoat, &c. — in my power to the several headlands which I had passed, I fancied I was driving into a bay, which, however, soon proved to be the termination of the lake, and the opening of the river, the current of. which was carrying me rapidly along. I passed several small uninhabited islands ; but the banks of the river appearing to be covered with houses, I again renewed my signals, with my waistcoat and a shirt, which I took out of the trunk, hoping, as the river narrowed, they might be perceived. The distance was too great. The velocity with which I was going convinced me of "ly near approach to the dread- ful rapids of La Chine. Night was drawing on ; my destruction appeared certain, but it did not disturb me very much : the idea of death had lost its novelty, and had become quite familiar. I really felt more provoked at having escaped so long to be finally sacrificed, than alarmed at the prospect. Finding signals in vain, I ADVENTUUE ON THE ST. LAWKEXCE. 27 now set up a cry or howl, such as I thought best calcu- lated to carry to a distance, and, being favoured by the wind, it did, although at above a mile distant, reach the ears of some people on shore. At last I perceived a boat rowing towards me, which being very small and white-bottomed, I had for some time taken for a fowl with a white breast ; and I was taken oif the barge by Captain Johnstone, after being ten hours on the water. I found myself at the village of La Chine, twenty-one miles below where the accident happened, having been driven by the winding of the current a much greater distance. I received no other injury than bruised knees and breast, with a slight cold. The accident took some hold of my imagination, and for seven or eight suceed- ing nights, in my dreams, I was engaged in the dangers of the Cascades, and surrounded by drowning men, &c. My escape was owing to a concurrence of fortunate circumstances. I happened to catch hold of various ai tides of support, and to exchange each article for another just at the right time. Nothing but the boom could have carried me down the Cascades without injury, and nothing but the barge could have saved me below them. I was also fortunate in having the Avhole day : had the accident happened one hour later, I should have arrived opposite the village of La Chine after dark, and, of course, would have been destroyed in the rapids below, to which I was rapidly advanchig. The trunk which furnished me with provisions and a resting-place above the water, I have every reason to think was necessary to save my life; without it, I must have passed the whole time in the water, and have been ex- nausted with cold and hunger. When the people on / 28 PEllILOUS ADVENTURES. shore saw our boat take the wrong channel, thoy pre- dicted our destruction : tlio floating luggage, by sup- porting us for a time, enabled them to make an exer- tion to save us ; but as it was not supposed possible to survive the pass.age of the Cascades, no further exer- tions were thought of, nor, indeed, could they well have been made. " It was at this very place that General Amherst's brigade of three hundred men, coming to attack Canada, was lost : the French at Montreal received the first in- telligence of the invasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. The pilot who conducted their first bateau, committing — it is said intentionally — the saine error that we did, ran for the wrong channel, and the other bateaux following close, all were involved in tlie same destruction. The whole party with which I was, escaped : four left the barge at the Cedar village above the rapids, and went to Montreal by land ; two more were saved by the canoe ; tho barge's crew, all accus- tomed to labour, were lost; of the eight men who passed down the Cascades, none but myself escaped, or v/ere seen again ; nor, indeed, was it possible for any one, without my extraordinary luck, and the aid of the barge, to which they must have been very close, to have escaped ; the other men must have been drowned immediately on entering the Cascades. The trunks, &c. to which they adhered, and the heavy greatcoats which they had on, very probably holped to overwhelm thom ; but they must have gone at all events : swimming in such a current of broken stormy waves was impossible ; still, I think my knowing how to swim, kept me more collected, and rendered me more willing to part with ADVENTLl'.E ON Till: iWIll-.NCE. 29 one article of support to gain a bettor ; those who could not swim would naturally cling to whatever hold they first got; and, of course, many had very bad ones. The captain passed me above the Cascades on a sack of woollen clothes, which were doubtless Boon saturated and sunk." i ^ ■' i i I : t ' X '''J- . t gi ADVENTURES OF MR. WILLIAM MARINER. R. William Mariner was a native of England. Possessing an intelli- gent mind and a daring disposition he, at an early age, evinced a desire to visit other lands. When quite a young man, he sailed as captain's clerk, on board of the privateer. Port au Prince. This vessel had a twofold commission. If not very successful in her cruize fo» prizes within certain latitudes, she was to double Cape Horn, and proceed to the Pacific ocean in search of whales. Captain Duck, the commander of the Port au Prince, was Mr. Mariner's particular friend. On her way to the South Pacific, the privateer cap- tured several Spanish vessels, and on arriving at the whaling ground, was very successful in the fishery. 4 5 W o o '^ li ^ ilNER. ativc of intelli- position a desire n quite aptain's rivateer, mission. s Tvitliin irn, and whales. Prince, eer cap- at tho fishery. ADVENTURES OP Mil. WILLIAM MAKINER. 33 Without meeting with any .accident, the crew contrived to take eleven whales. Some of these were of large size. The vessel then came to anchor in the port of Tola. In spite of the success of the privateer, the crew, apprehending that no very valuable prizes would be taken during the cruize became discontented, and there was a strong disposition to mutiny and desert. A leak in the vessel added to the causes of apprehension. After wooding and watering the ship at Tola, »nd procuring about fourteen bullocks, six pigs, and » quan- tity of fruit, she weighed anchor and made p*^1» leaving the prizes behind, after having stripped them of their anchors, cables, sails, &c. Finding the leak increase, she proceeded towards the islf^^d of Cocos, to careen. On Friday, the 14th of FeKuary, 1806, at sunset, thia island appeared WJ ^ twelve leagues, and the next day she came to f^ anchor in Chatham Bay. The water casks be>«g sent on shore to fill, they began to careen the p^ip- On running the guns over to starboard, and hee^^i'i^g the ship four strokes, the leak was found to jvoceed from a graving-piece not being properly se- erured under the forechains. The copper under the larboard bow was found to be in a bad state ; it was accordingly stripped off, and finch board was used for sheathing. On Tuesday, the 18th, the principal leaks were considered to be pretty well stopped, and the ship was therefore righted. After wooding, watering, and painting, she weighed anchor on the 25th, and made sail towards the whaling ground. On the 6th of March, having made Pan de Azucar, which bore N. six or seven leagues, she recommenced her whaling cruize, but which, notwithstanding the most diligent 34 l'i;UILO Va A D V L.NTL UL'S. look out (luring the lapse of two or three weeks, was very unsuccessful ; and lieiice the men began to bo exceedingly disconLcnted. On the 30th of ^larch, alio captured the Spanish brig Santa Tsidora, Captain Josef Evernzcga, from Guiatpiil, bound to Acapulco, laden with cocoa. The Port au Piince now kept plying to windward, keeping a good look out for whales. On the 12th of May, she caught four whales, which, together with what had been caught before at sundry times, made up a number of fifteen, being il\o whole that were taken during the voyage. The labo-jf and peril attendant upon the capture of these monsterh of the deep had not been anticipated by the crew, ana they continued to murmur. Tho privateer now proceedcl northward towards the coast of California. On the 11 n. of August, Captain Duck, Mr. Mariner's constant frienC, died, and Mr. Brown succeeded to the command of the vc^igel. He was arbi- trary and incompetent, and caused ttu discontent of the crew to show itself plainly. lie stct-.-ed for the Sandwich Islands, but missing Otaheite, he it^chorcd at the Tonga Islands, where Captain Cook had forni^rly visited. On the evening of the 29th of November, 1806, a number of Indian chiefs came on board, with a large barbacued hog and some yams. A native of Owyhee, who spoke a little English, came with the party. On Monday, the first December, 1806, at eight o'clock in the morning, the natives began to assemble on board, and soon increased to 300 in different parts of the ship. About nine o'clock Tool Tooi, tho Sand- wich islander, before mentioned, who had endeavoured to inspire tho ship's company with a good i s ^ niion WHALE ATTKMPTIXU TO ESCAPE. Ii i ADVENTURES OF MR. WILLIAM MARINER. 37 the friendly disposition of the natives, came on board, and invited Mr. Brown to go on shore and view the country : he immediately complied, and went unarmed. About half an hour after he had left the ship, Mr. Mariner, who was in the steerage, went to the hatch for the sake of the light, as he was about to mend a pen ; looking up, he saw Mr. Dixon standing on a gun, endeavouring by his signs, to prevent more of the natives coming on board : at this moment he heard a loud shout from the Indians, and saw one of them knock Mr. Dixon down with a club : seeing now too clearly what was the matter, he turned about to run towards the gun-room, when an Indian caught hold of him by the hand : he luckily escaped from his grasp, ran down the scuttle, and reached the gun-room, where he found the cooper : but considering the magazine the safest place, they ran immediately there ; and having consulted what was best to be done, they came to the resolution of blowing up the vesse' and, like Samson of old, to sacrifice themselves and their enemies together. Bent upon this bold and heroic enterprise, Mr. Mariner repaired to the gun-room to procure flint and steel, but was not able to get at the muskets without making too much noise, for the arm-chest lay beneath the boarding- pikes, which had carelessly been thrown down the scut- tle the preceding evening: the noise occasioned by clearing them away, as the uproar above began to cease, would undoubtedly have attracted the notice of the Indians ; he therefore returned to the magazine, where he found the cooper in great distress from the apprehension of his impending fate. Mr. Marine? next proposed that they should go at once upon deck, 38 PERILOUS ADVENTUllES. and be killed quickly, avIuIc their enemies ■were still hot ■with slaughter, rather than .by greater delay subject themselves to the cruelties of cooler barbarity. After some hesitation, the cooper consented to follow if Mr. Mariner would load the way. The latter thereupon went up into the gun-room, and lifting up the hatch a little, saAv Tooi Tool and Va-ca-ta-Bola examining Captain Duck's sword and other arms that were in his bed-place. Their backs being turned, he lifted off' the hatch entirely, and jumped up into the cabin : Tooi Tooi instantly turned round, Mr. Mariner presented his hands open, to signify that he was unarmed and at their mercy : he then uttered aroghah ! (a word of friendly salutation among the Sandwich islanders) and asked him partly in English, and partly in his own lan- guage, if he meant to kill him, as he was ready to meet his fate. Tooi Tooi replied in broken English, that he should not be hurt, as the chiefs were already in pos- session of the ship, but that he wished to be informed how many persons there were below, to which Mr. Mariner ajiswered, that there was only one, and then called up the cooper, who had not followed him tho whole way. Tooi Tooi led them upon deck towards one of the chiefs who had the direction of the conspi- racy. The first object that struck Mr. Mariner's sight, on coming upon deck, was enough to thrill the stoutest heart : there sat upon the companion a short squab naked figure, of about fifty years of age, with a sea- man's jacket, soaked with blood, thrown over one shoulder, on the otlier rested his ironwood club, spat- tered with blood and brains, — and what increased the frightfulness of his appearance was a constant blinking with one of his eyes, and a horrible convulsive motion still hot subject After r if Mr. creupon hatch a amining L'e in his I off the a : Tooi resented 1 and at ivord of !ers) and own lan- to meet that he r in pos- formed ich Mr. nd then lim the towards conspi- 's sight, stoutest squab a sea- ■,'er one b, spat- sed the )linhing motion ^. vfc !"*'-ir. '.'>■' ',• ^r ^'?' ^ ■ ' , -i^: ■'^..-*' •'.^■". 1 ADVENTUlli:::! <'F JiK. \V!iJ,IAM MAUliNEK. 41 on one side of his mouth. On anotlior part of the deck there lay twenty-two bodies perfectly naked, and ar- ranged side by side in even order. They were so dreadfully bruised and battered about the head, that only two or three of them could be recognized. At this time a man had just counted them, and was report- ing the number to the chief, who sat in the hammock- nettings ; immediately after which they began to throw them overboard. Mr. Mariner and the cooper were now brought into the presence of the chief, who looked at them awhile and smiled, probably on account of their dirty appearance. Mr. Mariner was then given in charge to a petty chief to be taken on shore, but the cooper was detained on board. In a little while Mr. Mariner Avas landed, and led to the most northern part of the island, a place called Co- oolo, where he saw, without being much affected at the sight, the cause of all that day's tlisasters, Mr. Brown, the whaling master, lying dead upon the beach : the body was naked, and much bruised about the head and chest. They asked Mr. Mariner, by words and signs, if they had done right in killing him ; — as he returned them no answer, one of them lifted up his club to knock out his brains, but was prevented by a superior chief, who ordered them to take their prisoner on board a large sailing canoe. Whilst here, he observed upon the beach an old man, whose countenance did not speak much in his favour, parading up and down with a large club in his hand. Mr. Mariner Avas completely stripped of his clothing, and exposed to the blistering heat of the sun. Three others of the crew wore found dead near a fire where .4*- 42 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. hogs were roasting. Finow, the king of the islanrls, took a fancy to Mr. Mariner, and cared for him. Several of the crew were preserved to assist the natives in war. The ship was burned, after her guns and some ammunition were conveyed on shore. ' ' ' Mr. Mariner remained at the Tonga islands for four years, during which time he underwent many hardships and made many narrow escapes from death. Finow continued to be his friend and protector, and in return for favours thus shown, the young Englishman was of much service to the natives in the wars, in which they were almost steadily engaged. Upon the death of Finow, his ; .a succeeded to the chieftainship. At length, when Mr. Mariner had almost given up all hope of returning to England, he discovered an European vessel while on a fishing excursion. The natives re- fused to take him on board. But he was determined to go, and after he had wounded one of them and threat- ened the others, they complied with his demand. The vessel proved to be the brig Favourite, Captain Fisk, bound for China. Mr. Mariner easily obtained a pas- sage, and contrived to get two of his friends as well as the journal of the Port au Prince brought on board. The Favourite then sailed for China, whence Mr. Mariner proceeded in another ship to England. Ilis relatives and friends had given him up as dead. His parents had deceased. His early trials and hardships had effectually cured him of the desire of wandering, and he now settled down in England. A journal of his adventures and a description of the manners and customs of the natives of the Tonga islands, among whom he had so long resided, were afterwards published, and they made an interesting volume. slanrls, r him. natives id some ■or four irdships Finow I return I was of ich they oath of lip. At all hope i'lropean |tives re- ormined thrcat- . The in Fisk, d a pas- well as n board, nee Mr. id. His id. His lardships ndering, urnal of ners and among ublished, (; ;; -'-'f^- V; : • ^■^■■' .-- ■■■>■ i ■ i %^\ AN ADVENTURE UPON THE ROAD. ADVENTURE UPON THE ROAD. HE fo]lo^v^ng curi- ous circuinstanco is from " Nights at Mess," pub- lished in Black- wood's Maga- zine. About thir- ty years ago, Mr. B. having at that time newly com- menced business in Edinburgh, was returning on horseback from the city to a cottage he had near Cra- mond. It was a wild night in November, and though he usually took the seaside as the shortest way home, he resolved this evening, on account of the increasing darkness, to keep on the high-road. When he had proceeded about thre > miles from the town, and had come to tlie loneliest part of the way, he was suddenly arrested by a man, who sprang out of a small copse at the roadside, and seized the bridle of his horse. Mr. B. was a man of great calmness and resolution, and asked the man the reason of his behaviour, without betraying the smallest symptom of agitation. Not so the assailant. ■ He held the bridle in his hand, but Mr. I 48 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. B. remarked that it trembled excessively. After re- maining some time, as if irresolute what to do, and without uttering a word, he let go his hold of the rein, and said in a trembling voice, " Pass on, sir, pass on ;" and then he added, " thank heaven, I am yet free from crime." Mr. B. was struck with the manner and appearance of the man, and said, " I fear you are in distress — is there any thing in which a stranger can assist you ?" " Strangers may, perhaps," replied the man in a bitter tone, "for nothing is to be hoped from/n'ewc?8." " You speak, I hope, under some momentary feeling of disappointment." " Pass on, pass on," he said, impatiently ; " I have no right to utter my complaints to you. Go home and thank the Almighty that a better spirit withheld me from my first intention when I heard you approach — or this might have been" he suddenly paused. " Stranger," said Mr. B. in a tone of real kindness, " you say you have no right to utter your complaints to me ; I certainly have no right to pry into your con- cerns, but I am interested, I confess, by your manner and appearance, and I frankly make you an offer of any assistance I can bestow." " You know not, sir," replied the stranger, " the person to whom you maKe so generous a proposal — a wretch stained with vices — degraded from the station he once held, and on the eve of becoming a robber" — *'ay," he added, with a shudder, "perhaps a mur- derer." "I care not, I care not for your former crimes — ai-vi:ntlke ii'on the road. 47 sufficient for mo that you repent them — tell me wherein I can stand your friend?" " For myself, I am careless," replied the man ; " but there is one who looks to me with eyes of quiet and still unchanged affection, though she knows that I have brought her from a home of comfort, to share the fate of an outcast and a beggar ; I wished for her sake, to become once more respectable, to leave a country where I am known, and to gain character, station, and wealth, to all which she is so justly entitled, in a foreign land ; but I have not a shilling in the world." Here ho paused, and Mr. B. thought he saw him weep. He drew out his pocl;cfc boolc, and unfolded a bank bill ; he put it into the man's hand, and said, " Here is what I hope uill ease you from your present difficulties — it is a note for a hundred pounds." The man started as ho received the paper, and said in a low, subdued tone, " I will not attempt to thank you sir. May I ask your name and address ?" Mr. B. gave him what he re- quired. "Farewell, sir," said the stranger. "When I have expiated my faults by a life of honesty and virtue, I will pray for you — till then I dare not." Saying these words he bounded over the hedge and disappeared. Mr. B. rode home, wondering at the occurrence ; and he has often said since, that he never derived so much pleasure from a hundred pounds in his life. He related the adventure to several of his friends ; but as they were not all endowed with the same gene- rosity of spirit as himself, he was rather laughed at for his simplicity ; and in the course of a few years an increasing and very prosperous business drove the 48 i»i:i;!!.ni\- .\i«VKN'niu;.<. Mil transaction almost entirely tVoni his niiiul. One day, however, about twelve years after the adventure, ho was sitting Avith a few friends after dinner, when a noto was put into his hands, and the servant told him that the Lclth carrier had broudit a hogshead of claret into the hall. lie opened the noto, and found it to contain an order for a hundred pounds, with interest up to that time, accompanied with the strongest expressions of gratitude for the service done to tho writer long ago. It had no date ; but informed him that he was happy, that he was respected, and that ho was admitted part- ner of one of the first mercantile houses in the city where he lived. Every year the same present was con- tinued, always accompanied with a lett'^r. Mr. B., strange to say, made no great effort to discover his correspondent. The wine, as I have good reason to know, was the finest that could bo had, for many a. good magnum of it have I drank at the hospitable table of my friend. At last he died, and the secret of who the mysterious correspondent might bo, seemed in a fair way of dying with him. But my story is not yet done. When the funeral of Mr. B. had reached the Greyfriar's churchyard, the procession was joined by a gentleman, who got out of a very elegant carriage at the door of tlio church. He was a tall, handsome man, about forty-five years of age, dressed in the deepest mourning. There were no armorial bearings on the panel of his carriage, for I took the trouble to examine them very particularly myself. He was totally un- known to all the family; and after tho ceremony, during which he appeared to be greatly affected, he went up to the chief mourner, and said, str tri at livi can in I exci aliv of 1 to s ADVKNTURE UI'uN THE ROAD. 49 "I hope, sir, you will excuse the intrusion of a stranger, but I could not refrain from paying the last tribute of respect to an excelUnt gentleman, who was at one time more my benefactor than any person living." Saying this, he bowed, stepped quickly into his carriage, and disappeared. Now, this, I have no doubt in my mind, was the very individual wh6 had so much excited my curiosity. All I can say is, if he is still alive, I wish, when he dies, he would leave me his cellar of wine, for his judgment in that article, I'll be bound to say, is unimpeachable and sublime iage at NOTES OF A TRAVELLER IN TEXAS. HE city of Antonio de Bexar, which was founded more than two centuries past, occupies a fertile plain on the west shore of the Antonio river, and now, oven in its curtailed condition, reaches fully a mile along that beautiful stream, which in width extends, per- haps, to more than half that distance. It seems to have been regularly laid off into streets, crossing each other at right angles, with an oblong space in the centre, about midway of which stands the cathedral and other public buildings, dividing it into two equal divisions of some eight acres each, the eastern being denominated the civil, and the western the mili- tary square. Around the whole extent of these squares are erected a continuous wall of stone houses, which from the exterior, with their rough walls, their flat roofs, and their port-holes, resemble nothing but an impregnable fortification, while on the interior, with their plastered fronts, large windows, and spacious corridors, the} present at once an appearance of com- fort, uniformity, and security. The other buildings are ''I 1 i ft c c ?•- ft ft AS. Bexar, re than iccupiea le west ) river, iirtailed Y a mile stream, (Is, per- alf that to have if into other at ohlonc; mds the it into eastern he mili- sqaares s, -which leir flat hut an or, with spacious of com- ri m • I ings are ' . 1 / NOTKH OF A THAVHLT.ER IN TEXAS. 68 miserable huts, built of crooked muskect-logs, stuck endwise into the ground, the crevices filled with clay, Avithont -windows, with dirt floors, and generally thatched with prairie grass or bull-rushes. The surface of the ground being level, the streets, which are without pave- ment, appear to have been prepared by the hand of nature for the especial purposes to which they have been appropriated by man. The suburbs on the east- ern bank of the San Antonio, where a considerable portion of the population reside, yield to the curvatures of the' river from the Alamo to the full extent of the citv. The river of San \i n*=->, which is formed by some half-dozen springs tL t r= rst uy» within a smnll com- pass, is, perhaps, one of the oon]r'«t and purest little rivers on the vVmerican contincni. Besides afforfling an abundaiK-o of water to supply the numerous diverging (litelies for initiation, it sweeps* on with a bold current, and with its flowery banks and its meandering channel winding gracefully through the city may be considered as its most valiiablo and inter- esting ornament. From early evening till the hour of midnight the inhabitants flock to it in crowds, for the purpose of bathing, and then the foi nis of hundreds of young and beautiful nymphs may be seen joyfully gam- bolling amongst its limpid waves. It is by no means an unusual sight to behold the forms of three or four young brunettes come dashing down the current, with their dark hair floating over their shoulders, and gliding like dolphins on the sea. The writer describes an incident which came within his notice during his visit to this beautiful river. He says — " As I stood gazing on the 54 PERILOUS ADViiXTUIlS. M various forms before mo, I beheld one younger and more delicate, rolling, curvetting, and sporting among the waves, whose tapering limbs and -well formed figure shone amidst the sparkling waters like alabaster when exposed to the sunlight. She was the only female of light complexion I saw in San Antonio, and as sh( passed her flaxen ringlets fell wantonly about her white neck and half-developed bosom. She seemed artleae and sinless as a cluld of the coral caves of the deep, deep ocean — but when her full blue eye turned up, and its glance met, in Avild surprise, with ours, a blush of modest consciousness passed over her check, when she darted to the bottom to rise no more till distance had deprived us of the powei's of di elimination." The population of San Antoiio is divided into three classes. Tlie third is the c()ni:!'Cting link between the savages and the Mexicans, and are termed llancheros, (or liei'dsmen) a rude, uncultivated, fearless race of men, who spend a great part of tlieir Ives on the saddle, herding their cattle and horses, and in hunting deer and buffalo, rir pursuinvi.i\Trui':s CUAPEL OF SAN JO»E. the aboile of priests and bishops, were CKeJ \kh Canianclic prisoiuM-s and mutinous soldiers, "W'hilo ai armed guard stood upon the rear wall, direct!^ i\x the seat of the holy altar. AVithin a short distance, and very similar in appear ance to the Alamo, stands the mission of St. Jose Here, too, the hand of time and destruction is visible, yet the walls and the numerous edifices are more per- fect, and the church is in a good state of preservation, although every thing about them is touched with a cast of great antiquity. This establishment, with its towers and steeples, and buttresses and spires, reminds the traveller of an old baronial castle in the feudal times ; NOTES or A 'rjiAvi;iJ.i:ii i.\ thxas. G1 and as the ilitcli around its walls, which once served to irrigate tlic fields around it, answers for the " deep moat," nothing but a draw bridge across the San Anto- nio is wanted to complete the delusion. The front of tlie church is embellished with a rich vine, within the curvatures of which are hearts and darts, the moon, the sun, and the globe ; then there are cherubim and seraphim, with trumpets and garlands, and wii.h mandates in their hands, who seem minister- ing to the wants and worshipping around the wrouglit figures of St. Ji;sr, the Virgin Mary, with the inlant in her arms. The whole is cut in stone, and stands out boldly from the wall. Within we fo'^'id remnants of rich tapestry, fragments of images and crosses, and very natural-looking figures of St. Jose and Jesus, Avith his bandages and wreath of thorns, as he was seen after he Avas taken down from the cross. The vase for the holy water is chaste, and must have been beautiful indeed. Like every thing else, it is of stone, and represents four winged angels seated on a rich pedestal, and bearing in their hands a bowl resembling largo convex leaves, diverging from the centre, which, with their pointed edges, form a beautiful brim. Here again were the evidences of warfare, which called to mind the events of the bloody revolution of 1835-G. On every side Nature had been bountiful in her gifts — the fertile soil still freshened by irrigation, and the multiplicity of bright flowers and fragant shrubs flash- ing among the waving grass like the rays of a prism whenever agitated b}^ the slightest breath of wind. The climate was pure, the air sweet, the breeze fresh, and the sunbeams warm, though not sickening — yet 62 IT.UII.OUrt ADVEXTUKES. the thousands -who once lived and moved and were happy upon this spot, had passed away, and wihlnoss extended from the missions to the very walls of the city. It was then wo wished for the genius, the fire, and the conception of a Byron, a Scott, or a Stephens, hat we might give vent to our feelings, and portray the beautiful prospect which surrounded us. UtZlCAN MJJIXT££R8. « 3 FIGHT BETWEEN A COBRA DI CAPELLO AND AN ICHNEUMON. SINGULAR ENCOUNTER WITH A COBRA » DI CAPELLO. ---xj---^^ ^TjT^HE cobra di capello is HI one of the most dead- ly serpents found in the •warm countries of the East. The lit- tle squirrel-like ani- mal called the mun- goos, or ichneumon ^ is its constant enemy. A British traveller in India was wandering on foot at night through a desolate part of the country, and at length overcome with fatigue, threw himself down on the dry spear-grass, and fell asleep. We will let him tell what then occurred to him. " No doubt of it ! I slept soundly, sweetly — no doubt of it ! I have never since then slept in the open air either soundly or sweetly, for my awaking was full of horror ! Before I was fully awake, however, I had a strange perception of danger, which tied me down to the earth, warning me against all motion. I knew that there was a shadow creeping over me, beneath which to lie in dumb inaction was the wisest resource. I felt that my lower extremities were being invaded by the heavy coils of a living chain ; but as if a providential opiate had been infused into my system, preventing all 66 PEUILOUri ADVENTURES. H'i movement of thcw or sinew, I kne\Y not till I was wide awake that an enormous serpent covered the whole of my nether limbs, up to the knees ! "'My God! I am lost!' Avas the mental exclama- tion I made, as every drop of blood in my veins seemed turned to ice ; and anon I shook like an aspen leaf, until the very fear that my sudden palsy might rouse the reptile, occasioned a revulsion of feeling, and I again lay paralyzed. " It slept, or at all events remained stirless ; and how long it so remained I know not, for time to the fear-struck is as the ring of eternity. All at once the sky cleared up — the moon shone out — the stars glanced over me ; I could see them all, as I lay stretched on my side, one hand under my head, whence I dared not remove it ; neither dared I look downward at the loath- some bed-fellow which my evil stars had sent me. " Unexpectedly a new object of terror supervened : a curious purring sound behind me, followed by two smart taps on the ground, put the snake on the alert, for it moved, and I felt that it was crawling upward to my breast. At that moment, when I was almost maddened by insupportable apprehension into starting up to meet, perhaps, certain destruction, something sprang upon my shoulder — upon the reptile ! There was a shrill cry from the new assailant, a loud, appall- ng hiss from the serpent. For an instant I could feel them wrestling, as it were, on my body ; in the next, they were beside me on the turf; in another, a few paces oflf, struggling, twisting round each other, fight- ing furiously, I beheld them — a mimgoos or ichneumon and a cohra di capello ! I % % % ENCOUNTER WITH A CO»RA DI CAPELLO. 67 " I started up ; I watched that most singular combat, for all was now clear as day. I saw them stand aloof for a moment — the deep, venomous fascination of the snaky glance powerless against the keen, quick, rest- less orbs of its opponent : I. saw this duel of the eye exchange once more for closer conflict : I saw that the mungoos was bitten ; that it darted away, doubtless in search of that still unknow^n plant whose juices are ite alleged antidote against snake-bite ; that it returned with fresh vigour to the attack ; and then, glad sight ! I saw the cobra di capcllo, maimed from hooded head to scaly tail, fall lifeless from its hitherto demi-erect position with a baflled hiss ; Avhile the wonderful victor, indulging itself in a series of leaps upon the body of its antagonist, danced and bounded about, purring and spitting like an enraged cat ! "Little graceful creature ! I have ey^r since kept a pet mungoos — the most attached, the most playful, and the most frog-devouring of all animals." meumon ERUPTION OP MOD.NT VEBUVICS. TREME^^DOUS ERUPTION OF MOUNT VESUVIUS. i IR "William Hamilton, an En^- ^^ glish traveller, had the good fortune in 1822 to be an eye- ■\vitnoss of one of the grandest outbreaks of the volcano of Vesuvius [^ on record. It occurred late in October. For several days previous a rumbling noise was heard, and vivid blue streaks of fire shot up from the crater, warning the people of Naples and the adjacent country of their danger. Terror seized upon the peasantry, and whole villages wi.M'c deserted. The English traveller reached Resina, and thence walked up the mountain to the hermitage of San Salva- JNT an Eng- ho good an eye- grandest Vesuvius 3ctober. purabling streaks eople of danger. villages I thence n Salva- TllEMENDOUS ERUPTION OP MOUNT VESUVIUS. 69 • tore, situated on a flat at the foot of the terminating cone in which is the great crater. Here he found several of his country-people, and among them some ladies, whose anxiety to view this sublime spectacle near at hand had overcome their fears. From the hermitage he advanced nearer to the cone, and then descended into a hollow through Avhicli the great river of Iftva was flowing. As he approached it, he saw it come in contact with a fine large vineyard. The low, dried vines were immediately set on fire, and blazing all over in an instant, the destructive clement spread to another and another vineyard, until considerable mischief was done. The lava, as in every eruption ho has seen, so fur from being rapid, was exceedingly slow in its course, flowing only a few feet in a minute. At this time it seemed tending directly to the unfortu- nate town of the Torre del Greco, which it threatened to overwhelm ; but it afterwards turned aside, and following another hollow, rolled into a wide and deep chasm of the mountain. He then attempted to ascend by the side of this burning river towards the cone ; but its heat, which set fire to brushwood and little trees at several feet distance, became insupportable. ' At every throe of the volcano the mountain shook beneath his feet, and ho was already so near that the lapilla from the crater fell upon him like hail. This sort of ash, which is called lapilla, is an exceedingly light and porous sub- stance, resembling pumice-stone ; and though it fell so thickly and in pieces as large as walnuts, it caused little annoyance. But the heat, as it has been said, was in- supportable ; and as the fumes of the sulphur became Btill more so, causing a most disagreeable sensation of 70 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. suffocation, he returned to the hermitage. . In a short time the quantity of smolce was so great and so black that it obscured the lava that produced it. Nothing could now be seen distinctly except the lightning flash- ing through a pitchy sky, and a part of the column of fire from the crater looking a lurid red. The noise, tremendous even as far off as Naples, was at a spot so near as the hermitage, utterly astounding. It should be noticed that this noise was produced by the passage through the air of the matter which the volcano ejected, and then the fall of that matter ; for the forked light- ning was unaccompanied by thunder — it only played close round and abovo the crater, and seemed produced by electric fluid issuing thence, and to depend on the dense black clouds that flanked the ascending column of fire. ' The violence oi this eruption Avas little abated for two days and nights, Fortunately, however, the lava, in the courses it too^c, did not find any town or village to destroy ; and the lapilla and ashes or dust that fell in almost inconceivable quantities in every place in the neighbourhood were n >t difficult to remove, and indeed (that being the rainy season) were mainly washed away by the heavy rains shortly after. When the smoke cleared away from the mountain, which it did not for many days, it was perceived that the eruption had carried away the edges or lips of the crater, and materially altered the shape, and lowered the cone, of Vesuvius. The lava by this time, though its outer coating had cooled to such a degree that you could walk over it, still burned beneath ; and it was many days more before what had been rivers of liquid fir l0( wl j,n no hei S0( am TREMENDOUS ERUPTION OF MOUNT VESUVIUS. 71 a short io black Nothing ig flash- iumn of le noise, , spot SO t sh#uld passage ejected, Dd liglit- r played )roduced I on the T column ated for le lava, r village that fell e in the d indeed ed away lountain, ved that )S of the lowered though that you d it was of liquid ■» fire became cold. Solid ridges were then seen, of what looked like hard, black, brittle stone, or rather like what smiths and iron-founders call clinkers. The main stream of lava was about fifty feet wide on an average. It ran for more than a mile; and had not the eruption ceased and stopped at its fountain head, even in the direction it had taken it would have soon destroyed a beautiful district between Vesuvius and the sea. MAPOUTAN COSTUMES. ■■A" ■-^i'i ..,' i. tUUa BBVCI. ADVENTURES OF JAMES BRUCE IN AFRICA. .AMES BRUCE was one of the most daring of modern travellers. Ho was born in Stirling- Scotland, on "the 14th of December, 1730. In his earliest years he evinced a passion for books of travel, and devoted him- self to acquiring information in * regard to foreign countries. He possessed great energy and intelligence. After trav- elling all over Europe, Bruce received the appointment of consul-general at Algiers, with new incentives to undertake the exploration of Africa. He reached ADVENTLKIiS OF JAMES BllUCE IN AFIIICA. 73 one of He |ling- Ihof •liest for him- fn in He ;rav- lent 3 to iched Africa in March, 1763. After a short stay in Algiers he was deprived of his commission, and ho then resolved to proceed as a private individual. Mr. Bruce was well fitted for this daring excursion. He was six feet four inches in height, and possessed great muscular strength. He was an excellent horseman and swimmer, and a wonderful naarksman. His mind was vigorous and fertile in resources. On the 25th of August Mr. Bruce sailed for Tunis, stopping on his way thither at Utica and Carthage, the ruins of which cities he stayed some time to examine, making drawings of the most important parts, in which he was assisted by a young Bolognese artist, whom he had brought with him from Italy. In one of his incur- sions into the interior of the country, he discovered Cirta, the capital of Syphax, whence he returned to Tunis, and started thence for Tripoli, by way of Gabs and Gerba. On entering the desert which borders the latter town, he was attacked by the Arabs, and com- pelled to return to Tunis, where he remained till August, 1766, when he crossed the desert in safety, and arrived at Tripoli. He next proceeded across the Gulf of Sydra to Bengazi and Ptolometa, and shortly after- wards set sail for Crete, when a shipwreck drove him again upon the African shore, with the loss of every thing but his drawings and books, which he had fortu- nately despatched from Tripoli to Smyrna. From Bengazi, the place of his shipwreck, and where he was very cruelly treated, he escaped by a French vessel to Canea, where he was detained by an intermittent fever till the end of April, 1767, when he proceeded by way of Rhodes to Sidon. 7 74 PKi;ii,or AlJVi;.\T!I!i::= On the IGth of September he coinincueed his journey to Balbcc, which he reached on the 10th of the same month; avl having returned to Tripoli, set out in a few weeks for Palmyra. After making several draw- ings, which, as well as those of Balbec, he aftcwarda presented to the king, he ivavelled along the coast to La-takia, Antioch, and Aleppo, whcra he was attacked by a fever, from Avhich he y'lih great di'Iiculty reco- vered. About this time, meditating the discovery of the source of the Nile, he left Aleppo for Alexandria, where he arrived on the 20th of June, 1768. From hence he proceeded by land to Rosetta, where ho em- barked on the Nile for Cairo. •■ After impressing the bey of the city with an idea of his skill in medicine and prophecy, he sailed to Syene, visiting in his way thither the ruins of Thebes ; and on the 16th of February, 1769, set out from Kenne through the Thcbaid desert to Cosseir, on the Red Sea, and from thence proceeded to Tor and Jidda, where he landed on the oth of May. After waking several ex- cursions in Arabia Felix, he quitted Loheia on the 3d of September for Masuah; where, on his arrival, he was detained for some Aveeks by the treachery and avarice of the governor of that place, who attempted to murder him in consequence of his refusal to make him an enormous present. In February, 1770, htj entered Gondar, the capital of Abyssinia, the ras of which city appointed him gentleman-usher of the king's bed-chamber, commander of the household cavalry ,.and governor of a province. On the 27th of October, after having taken an active part in the councils of +hc sovereign, and efteeted a o H te ta w BRUCE AT THE SOURCE OF THE NILE. Ai)Vi::;'i'n.i:,--. i.,!' JAMI:^^ buuce in Africa. 79 ^fe=- Bcveral cures of persons about the court attacked with the small-pox, he left the capital, pnd set out in search of the source of tlie Nile, which lie discovered at Sac- cala, on the 14th of the following November. The joy he felt on the occasion is thus described by himself: " It is easier to guess than to describe the situation of my mind at that moment ; standing in that spot which had baffled the genius, history, and inquiry of both ancients and moderns, for the course of nearly three thousand years. Kings had attempted this discovery at the head of armies, and each expedition was distin- guished from the last only by the difference of the numbers who had perished, and agreed alone in the dis- appointment which had uniformly, and without excep- tion, followed them all. Fame, riches, and honour, had been held out for a series of ages to every individual of the myriads those princes commanded, without having produced one man capable of gratifying the curi- osity of his sovereign, or wiping off the stain upon the enterprise and abilities of mankind, or adding this de- sideratum for the encouragement of geography. Though a mere private Briton, I triumphed here in my own mind over kings and their armies ; and every com- parison was leading nearer and nearer to the presump- tion, when the place itself where I stood, the object of my vainglory, suggested what depressed my shortlii'od triumphs. I was but a few minutes arrived at the sources of the Nile, through numberless dangers and sufferings, the least of which would have overwhelmed me, but for the continual goodness and protection of Providence ; I was, however, then but half through my joui:ncy, and all those dangers which I had already \[ 80 I'HUILOUS AbVIiNiUiiKt?. passed awaited me again on my return. I found a despondency gaining ground fast upon me, and blasting the crown of laurels I had too rashly woven for my- self." After returning to Gondar, our traveller found much difficulty in obtaining permission to proceed on his way homeward ; it being a rule with the inhabitants never to allow a stranger to quit Abyssinia. A civil war breaking out in the country about the period of his intended departure, he was compelled to remain in it till the December of the following year, and took part in one of their battles, in which his valiant conduct was such that the king presented him with a rich suit of apparel, and a gold chain of immense value. At length, at the end of 1771, he set out from Gondar, and in the February of the following year arrived at Senaar, where he remained two months, suffering under the most in- hospitable treatment, and deceived in his supplies of money, which compelled him to sell the gold chain he had been presented with. He then proceeded by Chiendi and Gooz through the Nubian desert, and on the 29th of November reached Assouan on the Nile, after a most dreadful and dangerous journey, in the course of whiclifhe lost all his camels and baggage, and twice laid himself down in tlie expectation of death. Having procured, however, fresh camels, he returned t ) the desert and recovered most part of his baggage, with which, on the 10th of January, he arrived at Cairo ; where, ingratiatii ^ himself with the bey, he obtained permission for English commanders to bring their vessels and merchandise to Suez, as well as to Jidda, an advantage no other European nation had ADVENTURES OP JAMES BRUCE IN AFRICA. 81 ind a bsting r my- much is ■Nvay never il war of his I in it )k par\, ict was suit of length, I in the •j where aost in- )lies of hain he .ed hy and on [le Nile, in the |aggagc, eath. leturned laggage, rived at |bey, he [o bring 111 as to ion had bftion r been able to acquire. In the beginning of March he arrived at Alexandria, whence he sailed to Mar- seilles ; where he landed about the end of the month, suffering under great agony from a disease called the Guinea worm, which totally disabled him from walking, and had nearly proved fatal to him during his voyage. Notwithstanding, however, the perils he underwent, and the barbarities he witnessed duiing his travels, and particularly at Abyssinia, yet even that country he left with some regret, and would often recall with a feeling almost of tenderness the kindnesses he had received there, especially from the ras's wife, Ozoro Esther, between himself and whom a very affectionate intimacy had existed. Mr. Bruce published a narrative of his adventures, which was not credited at that period ; but it has since been substantially confirmed. AURE8T OF LEDTABD. ADVENTURES OF JOHN LEDYARD. R. JOHN LEDYARD was born about 1750, at Groton, in Connecticut. Ilis boyhood -was distinguished for adven- tures among the Indians of America. His mind and body were formed for great achieve- ments. Fortitude, courage and perseverance were his prominent qualities. His activity was astonishing. After making a tour of the world with Captain Cook, he travelled alone, over the greater part of Europe and Asia. (82) bergh. ADVENTURES OF JOHN LEDYARD. 83 Icliieve- [•ere his usliing. Cook, )pe and He arrived at St. Petersburgh in March, 1787, with- out shoes and stockings, which he was unable to pur- chase. In this state, however, he was treated with great attention by the Portuguese ambassador, who often invited him to dinner, and procured him an ad- vance of twenty guineas on a bill drawn on Sir Joseph Banks, and finally obtained him permission to accom- pany a convoy of provisions to Yakutz, where he was recognized and kindly received by Captain Billings, whom he had known in Cook's vessel, and with whom he returned to Irkutsk. From hence he proceeded to Ocsakow, on the coast of the Kamschatkan Sea, whence in the spring, he intended to have p.issed over to that peninsula, and to have embarked on the eastern side in one of the Russian vessels trading to America ; but finding the navigation obstructed, he returned to Yakutz to await the termi- nation of the winter. His intentions, however, were suddenly frustrated by the arrival of an order from the empress for his arrest, which took place in January, 1788, without any reason being assigned for such a pro- ceeding. He was deprived of his papers, placed in a sledge, and under the guard of two Cossacks, conducted through the deserts of Siberia and Tartary to the fron- tiers of Poland, where he was left, covered with rags and vermin, and prohibited from returning to Russia on pain of death. In this situation he set out for Koenigs- bergh, on arriving at which town he obtained five guineas, by drawing a bill in the same manner as before, with which sum he proceeded to England. He then undertook, in the service, and at the expense, of Sir Joseph Banks, a voyage to Africa, to discover ( ' 84 PERILOUS AJ;VK.NTUiiE3. TIIAVELLINQ i.N KU-^dlA. the source of the Niger, lie arrived at Alexandria on ihe 5th of August, 1788, and on the 19th he reached Cairo. lie then set about exploring the ancient monu- ments of Europe, and engaged in making preparations Tor his departure for Scnnaar, when he was seized wita 1 bilious fever which terminated his adventurous life. The details of Mr. Ledyard's many tours have never been given to the world ; but it is certain that for hardi- hood he has never been surpassed. He left soine manuscripts behind him, which were printed in London a few years after his death, in a work called jMemoirs of the Society instituted for the encouraging Discoveries in the Interior of Africa. A work, entitled Voyages de ]MM. Lcdyard et Lucas en ADVKNTlJUr.S OF JOHN LKUVAUl). 85 Iria on cached monu- rations ed ■wita us life. e never !• hardi- ch were h, in a for the ica. A ucas en en Afriquc, suivis (rcxlriiiis iraii'i'os V\jji\p;oii, Avas also printed at Paris iu 180-i. i\[r. Lcdjavcl, in liis jour- nal, evinces gvoat powei's of observation, and ;t. sound judgment and undorslaudiug. Some idea of his suffer- ings may be formed in i ending the following extract: "I have known." he writes, "both hunger and naked- ness to the utmost extremity of human suffering. I have known what it is to have food given me as charity to a mad man ; and I have at times been obliged to shelter myself under the miseries of thai character to avoid a heavier cahuln^y. My distresses have been grei'-tcr than I have cvvr owtieil, or ever will own to any man. Such evils are (evrible to h(';;r; but they ttLver yet had power to tiu'ii me from my pui-poso. If I live, I will faitlifully pcform in ils iiUnost extent my engagements to the Society; and if 1 pevi.'^h in the attempt, my honour will be safe, for death eancels uU bonds." 8 MUNOO PA: X. ADVENTURES OF MUNGO PARK. UNGO PARK, tlie famous travel- ler, Wiis a tiMtive of Fowlsliicls, Scotland, and was born Septeni- 1 (.'r 10, 1771. lie was educated for the medical jjiofession, and, at an early af^e, made a voyage to Sumatra as a surgeon. On his return to England, hearing that the African Association was desirous of engaging a person to re- place Major Houghton, who, it was feared, had fallen a p ipi'iiirp to the cause of discovery in Africa, Park oH'cied hid sci'viceo, uuJ v,as accepted. He left Eng- land on the 22nd of May, 1795, and after a pleasant ADVENTURES OF MUNGO PARK. 87 gcto^ Vican ;o re- all en Park Eng- asant voyage reached Jullifree, on the river Gambia. After a short stay at this place, the vessel continued her course up the river as far as Jonkakonda, where she was to take in a part of her cargo. Park, therefore, disemharkcd, and having a letter of introduction to a European, named Laidlcy, who lived at Pisania, six- teen miles higher up the river, he proceeded thither. From this gentleman he received the greatest attention, and was invited to remain in his house till an oppor- tunity offered of continuing his journey into the inte- rior. „^^ .,, ,. , ., , . While waiting the occurrence of thw opportunity, Piivk sot about acquiring all the information he could j)rocure legardiiig the countries wiiich he Avas about to visit. lie studied also the Mandingo language, which is in gencrul use in this part of Africa. In the midst of tliese labours, however, he was sci/.ed with fever, having incautiously exposed hin .olf to the night dew while observing an eclipse of the moon. Availing himself of his restoration to health, and the return of tiic dry seas(;n, Park now resolved to set out on his journey. He was attended by a negro to act aa interpi-eter, who spoke both English and Mandingo, having acquired the former during a residence in Eng- land, and a boy-shivc of Dr. Laidley's, who, in order to stimulate him to behave well, Avas promised his free- dom on his return, in case Park should report favour- ably of his conduct. Nothing remarkable occurred till our traveller arrived at Fatteconda, the capital of Bondou, where he had scarcely arrived before he was sent for by the kmg, who was desirous to see him. As Park had heard that PERILOUS ADVKNTIIIKS. this monarch nad treated Major TToughton -with greji^ unkindness, and caused him to be plundered, it was not without a feeling of appreliension that he was ushered into his presence. He found him seated under a tree, and, after explaining to his majesty the object of his journey, ho presented him with a quantity of gunpowder, some tobacco, and an umbrella. With the latter article he was particularly delighted, repeatedly furling and unfurling it, to the great admiration of him- self and his attendants, who could not for S( mc time understand the use of such an article. By way of preserving from plunder part of his ward- robe, Park dressed himself in the best coat which it afforded. This article, however, ornamented as it was with yellow gilt buttons, so captivated the king's fancy, that, after making a long speech on the liberality of the whites, he asked our traveller to make him a pre- sent of the coat, assuring him at the same time that he would wear it on all public occasions, and inform every one who saw it of his generous conduct. The request of an African prince in his own dominions, particularly when made to an unprotected stranger, is little short of a command. Park knew very well that if the king did not obtain the object of his wishes by fair means he would do so by force ; he, therefore, at once pulled off his coat, and laid it at the monarch's feet. From this place Park proceeded to Joag, the frontier town of the kingdom of Kajaaga, and during the night the house in which he slept was surrounded by an armed band of horsemen, who told him that as he had entered the town without first paying the customs. camp. After ADVEMIIRKS UF .MINUO TARK. 89 or giving any present to thej'-'•'- "^ " v ,. . - . ,^ After travelling a few days, exposed to great suffer- ing from the heat of the weather and the scarcity of water, they arrived at a Negro village called Samee, where they were kindly received, and Park was con- gratulating himself that he was now out of reach of all danger from the Moors, when a party suddenly entered the hut where he was, telling him they had come by order of Ali (the Moorish king,) to conduct him to the camp. He was therefore forced to accompany them. After a journey of four or five days, they arrived at 8* %^ % "W. V^.^'^oS' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 UK- Hi£ I.I m ,^ III 2£ 1.8 1-25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► <^ /2 om^. -% 'S ^> '^^^'''' ^>. :5s '^ '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (71«) 872-4503 V .§v ^ •^ \\ ^\ Wk\ ■4* ''f:i '" g £<> i k S- <■ ^ ^ 1^ W ;,,i/ ,.•■;;;-' ■-. -■ ; , ' ^,'-' \. :_' ,■''._'''.■'■ ^ .4 %" ^ \ ■ . " ■ ■■^- " ■ " ■ ■ , " " . '"■:\ .- •, ■■■' .;,'-■"-■"-;."■' r-- ■"■■ ^- "■'■-■""- '-■ , V^ -■ ■■ ■■ ■;- -i-^ - --T,-- ; --■" -:--:-^;- ■■- '' ■■--.-. ■- ■-•■ --- ' ^^ 90 PERILOUS ADVFNTURES. PARK AHS THE FB009. Benown, where All's army was then encamped. Here Park was during ten weeks, exposed to all the insults and indignities which could be contrived by some of the rudest savages on earth. We have not space to detail all the trials and suifer- ngs of Mr. Park. He contrived to escape from the Moors, but nearly starved to death in the desert. He also suffered dreadfully from thirst. At length he found some pools of muddy water, where he quenched his own and his horse's thirst. At these pools the frogs were so numerous that Park had to beat them ADVENT UIIES OF MUNGO I'AllK. 91 Here insults of the sufFer- lom the It. He Igth he lenched lols the It thein away with a branch befoi'o his horse couhl drink. Con- tinuing his journey, Park reached tlic miijestic Niger. He followed this river towards its source, meeting with perils of every description, which, in a short time, obliged him to return. He succeeded in reaching Eng- land. Undaunted by the dangers he knew to be attend- ant upon the journey, Park once more set out to dis- cover the source of the Niger. He was attacked by the natives of Yaour while passing up the river, and seeing no chance of escape, he leaped into the Niger and perished. This was a fit termination of a career 60 adventurous. ntfff^ AIUOiN BUtraAHT. SWISS. M. SIMOND m SWITZERLAND. N all the Alpine ranges of Switzerland, the Tyrol, and Italy, on the approach of summer the peasants lead their herds up to the pasturages on the mountains. These, from their height, are uuinhabitahle during the winter and early spring months. They are resorted to at different seasons, according to their M. SIMOND IN SWITZERLAND. 93 erland, )proach 1 their on the height, ■winter ley are their heights ; and some of them, placed at an elevation of 6000 or 7000 feet above the level of the sea, affording food for the cattle but for a short period, the covering of snow not disappearing till June, and winter closing in at the end of August, or beginning of September. In these Alpine heights are built log-huts, called chalets, in which the herdsmen and their cattle are sheltered. In some parts of the higher Alps the peasants remain during the whole season, without returning more than twice or thrice to fetch up a scanty supply of meal, the remainder of their food being the milk of the cattle and the cheese made in the ch&lets. As the higher grounds are only accessible by steep and winding foot-paths, the few articles of food, and the churn and pails necessary for the preparation of the cheese, are carried up on the backs of the herdsmen, who thus pass their time with their cattle in entire solitude. Sometimes a single man has the charge of ten or fifteen cows, and remains for ten or twelve weeks hung up amidst pine-forests, rocks, and glaciers of ice, without seeing a human being. Their appearance is in general wretched and dull ; and when by chance a wandering traveller visits their haunts, they will follow him for miles, in order to ex- change with him a few words of conversation. On the approach of winter they return with the cattle and the stock of cheese that has been made in the mountains. The following extract from Mr. Simond's * Travels in Switzerland' describes one of these mountain ch&lets ; but those in the higher mountains are far more dreary, and possess even less of comfort and convenience. " The higher ridge of the Scheideck, when we passed it, was crowded with cattle, assembled there for miles 94 rHi.ILOrS ADVENTURES. to avoid the flies, vrbich in more sheltered situations torment them during the heat of the day. The natural process by Avliich soil is made was every where observ- able on the Eselsrlicken (Ass's Back), where tlie un- covered edge of the slate is so far decomposed by expo- sure to weather, that large fragments, apparently sound, crumbled into black dust under our feet. This dust, fertiUzed by the cattle, is in some places covered with grass ; in others it is washed away to lower grounds, leaving the surface of the slate again exposed to the weather, to be farther decomposed. " Some way beyond this ridge we came to a chalet, which, being occupied by the shepherds, afforded more conveniencies than our halt of yesterday. Here a fire was already blazing in a sort of pit or trench dug around by way of a seat, and a huge kettle hung over for the purpose of cheese-making. "We had plenty of cream furnished us, in which the spoon literally stood on end, a kettle to make cofifee, and wooden ladles by way of cups. All the utensils were made of maple, of linden, and of a sort of odorous pine (pinus cemhra\ by the shepherds themselves, who bestow much time on this manufacture. We noticed the portable seat with a single leg, oddly strapped to th^; back of those who milk the cows ; the milk-pails, the milk-hod fastened to their shoulders, the measures, the ladles made in the shape of shells, the milk-strainer (a tripod funnel full of pine leaves), the vase in which rennet (used to coagulate milk) is preserved, the press, the form, and many other implements of their trade, all elegantly shaped, and very clean. " The chalet itself was an American log-house of the M. SIMOND IN SWITZERLAND. 95 of the rudest construction ; the roof, composed of clumsy shingles, gave vent to the smoke in the absence of a chimney ; this roof, projecting eight or ten feet, formed a sort of piazza, called the milkgang, a German word, which, like many others in that language, needs no English translation. "The bed-room of the shepherds in these summer chalets is a wooden gallery, hung up over the milkgang, close to the projecting roof; they go up to it by a lad- der, and all herd together on a little straw, never changed. The cows come home to be milked, attracted from the most distant pastures by a handful of salt, which the shepherd draws out of a leathern pouch hanging across his shoulder. The ground round the chalet is so broken, poached, and made filthy by tread- ing of cattle, that without stepping-stones it would be difficult to reach the door ; to finish the picture, a herd of swine ranges about, waiting for the allotted portion of butter-milk and . '.rds. All this is, no doubt, very difierent from llousseau's charming description of a chfiilet ; but the chalets about Heloise's residences were family dwellings, inhabited the whole year round, and such as are found on lower mountains only ; they are kep^, perfectly clean and comfortable, and are in all respects difierent from those on the High Alps, con- structed for mere temporary shelters during a few months : no women live in the latter. " When the weather is tempestuous, the shepherds, or rather the herdsmen, are up all night in the moun- tains with their cattle, calling to them, as without this precaution they might take fright, run into dangers, and be lost. A few places of shelter, built of logs on the 96 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. •-■1 principal pastures, would, it seems, answer the purpost better with less trouble. The cattle look very beautifii and active, full of spirit and wild sport; they shoM much more curiosity and intelligence than the rest of their kind, and often follow travellers from rocks t( rocks a long while, merely to observe them. Bulls, notwithstanding the fierceness of their looks, nevei attack any body. Mr. Ramond, in his notes on Coxe's Travels, tells an interesting story concerning these animals, which, if it should happen not to be quite true, at least deserves to be so. Speaking of their antipathy for bears — *It is impossible,' he says, *to restrain a bull when he scents a bear in the neighbour- hood ; he comes up to him, and a running fight begins, which often lasts for several days, and till one of the two is killed. In a plain the bear has the advantage ; among rocks and trees the bull. (I should have thought just the reverse.) Once, in the Canton of Uri, a bull went in pursuit of a bear, and did not return ; after searching for him three successive days, he was found motionless, squeezing against a rock his enemy, which had been long dead, was quite stiff" and cold, and almost crushed to pieces by the pressure ; such had been the efforts of the bull, that his feet were deep sunk into the ground." ,rpos( ,utifuL est of cks tc Bulls, novel Coxe's these 5 quite if their ys, 'to ghbour- begins, e of the antage ; thought , a bull n ; after as found , which almost )een the into the •1 'Js;«r1Wiji*df^'vT ffA',^' if (1 :/ .*■> ?l^ CAVALIERO'S ADVENTURES IN EGYPT. 5^. !»l\ « I RANCESCO CAVALIERO accompa- nied Bonaparte in his famous expedition to Egypt, and was captured by the Arabs. Upon his release he published an account of his travels and adventures while in captivity. When he was taken to Cairo, he became pipe-bearer to a Turkish officer. He gives the following account of his service : — " Solyman Aga, my new master, sent for me, and gave me a fan made of ostrich feathers to drive the flies from him, and cool him at meals. There were five other officers beside Solyman Aga that messed together, and wlio could spoak very little Arabic, but I found their manners much more polite and genteel than any of the natives ; they were also cleanlier both in their cooking and eating ; using spoons, but neither knife nor fork. They drink nothing but water with their meals; but after their repast they retire with their companions to a f;e]):irate room, and there indulge in drinking the stron«ie8t liquors, but never take any before their servants. After being here a few days, Solyman sent for me, saying I was to follow him on horseback when he rode out, also giving me t he care of four large pipes, the stems of which 100 I'KUILOl'S ADVF.XTlJUi:!-;. two yards and a luiH* loii;.^, and liis tobacco bag. With these I was to follow him either on horseback or on foot, and always be in attendance to light his pipe when he wanted it : lie also named me Assan Bendlcr, not knowing I had already been christened Ragib Achmet by the Arabs, and I did not think it necessary to acquaint him. lie also instructed mo in the Turkish prayers, and occasionally sent mc to the bagnios, or vapour baths, attended by two soldiers to guard me. It is hardly credible the attention they pay to you at these baths : first they undressed me in a room, tying a towel round my middle, then led me to the inner room, where they made all my joints snap by rubbing me with a mohair-bag about the size of a man's hand, which takes away all uncleanliness from perspiration ; then washed me with warm and afterwards cold water, covered me with a dry cloth, and led me back to the first room, and laid me upon a bed, and whilst one person was wiping my body, another was rubbing my feet with a pumice stone ; all this was done for the trifling sum of 40 paras, about 18d. sterling. I found so much benefit from these baths, that I requested leave to go to them twice a week, which my master granted. After having been about two months with him, ho wished me to bo dressed in the Mameluke manner, wliicli was a much lighter dress and richer than my former; he also gave me a poniard, which I was always to wear when I went out with him. He told 1110 that he expected soon to return to Constanti- nople, and would take me along with him. I was very glad to hear this, as I was in hopes when I arrived there to meet with some Christian minister to apply to With : or on 30 when Icr, not Achmet isary to Turkish ;nios, or ,ard mo. you at m, tying he inner ' rubbing q's hand, piration ; lid water, ck to the hilst one )bing my e for the I found requested ay master nths "with Mameluke ,nd richer a, which I him. He Constanti- [ was very I arrived apply to ( SOLYMASr AGA. CAVALlKllO 8 ADVENTUKliS IN EGYPT. 103 ,v ■^.%~ ^ for my freedom. Ho wished me to undergo the opera- tion of circumcision, as he said no one could be a good Musselman without it. Showing him my wounds, and telling him they were very painful, but that at a future period I would comply with his request, he gave me to understand, by a native, that if I re sed to become a Turk, he would tie me in a bag and throw me into the river Nile. This gave me great uneasiness, as I thought to myself that I certainly should lose my life if I 'did not comply with his request. I therefore prayed to the Almighty to be merciful to me, and assist me in this time of trial, determining within myself to follow the Christian religion. Solyman Aga said nothing more about it for some time ; he still continued to take me with him when he went on his visits. Sometimes he had parties to dinner ; their victuals are served up in large copper dishes, tinned inside; they use no plates, but every one helps himself out of the common dish with a spoon, and they have but two or three dishes brought in at a time. They have neither table nor table-cloth, but each person has a napkin. A piece of leather is spread on the floor, which they all set upon with their legs across, and the morsels that occasionally drop on the leather are taken care, of and given to the poor. The rooms are generally spacious, with carpets at the extremities of them, and cushions to rest them- selves upon. The only ornaments they have in the rooms are warlike instruments of different descriptions hung in different parts. About a month had expired when Solyman Aga sent for me, and claimed the per- formance of my promise : not knowing any probable mode of escaping, I consented, but with considerable ^ 104 PERILOUS ADVENTUKES. apprehension, which displeased him very much. The operator arrived and produced his instruments, which totally took away the fear of death, and made me deter- mine to object to the operation. This refusal put Solyman Aga into a violent rage, and he abused me very much in his own language, ordering me to strip off the clothes he had given me, and giving me a suit much inferior. Now once more I found myself very unc(ftnfortably situated; having lost the friendship I had gained, the whole household despised me ; as they passed me they made signs, giving me to understand that if I did not become a Mussulman, I should have my head taken off. In this miserable state I did not remain long, the Almighty being merciful and hearing my prayers, and I was soon delivered from the hands of those Turks. One of the officers belonging to Soly- man Aga being taken ill of a disorder, it was thought necessary to consult a European doctor, and to my gre?t astonishment I recollected him to have been in Bonaparte's army. I approached the doctor, and addressed him by his name, but he had no recollection of me. I told him my name, and in wh( le service I had been; he seemed greatly astonished, as he had heard Colonel Broun^ say many times that I had been killed. I then acquainted him how I came in my present situation, and how cruelly they had used me. He then asked me if I had changed my religion ; I replied no, but that I expected every moment to be forced to do so. This gentleman filled my heart with rapture, saying that if I could keep myself from doing so for twenty-four hours, he would apply to the grand vizier for my liberty, he being under his protection. and CAVALIEUO S AD\i;.\TL'lU:S IN EGYPT. 106 he Lch er- put me trip suit ?ery ipl they ,taud have a not aring bands [Soly- ought ,0 my een in and lection Ivice I lo had been |in my »d me. ;ion; I to be [rt -with doing grand section. The twenty-four hours had not expired before this humane gentleman came with a Turkish officer, and a letter from the grand vizier for Solyman Aga. After reading the contents, and finding it was for my liberty, his countenance instantly changed with a sanguinary look both at the gentleman and myself. I expected every moment my head would be separated from my shoulders, but his passion by degrees subsided, and at length, by the interference of the officer who brought the vizier's letter, he consented that I should go, but not until he was repaid the sum he had given for me, which the gentleman immediately paid to Solyman Aga, who also made him pay for the clothes I had on, after which the Turkish officer took my hand and con- ducted me to this gentleman's house in safety, when I thought myself to be once more the happiest man living. The gentleman made me take oflF the Turkish dress, and gave me some of his own. I then related to him all the dangers and hardships I had undergone during the fourteen months I was with the Arabs, and five months with the Turks. A WINTER IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS. R. KING, an English adven- turer in the region at the ex- treme north of America, thus speaks of his wintry experi- ence : — As the severe weather was by this time over, and I had seen the thermometer, on the 17th of January, 102° below the freezing-point, had slept in an atmosphere of 82 below, ' under the canopy of heaven,' with a sin- gle blanket for a covering, and had had some experience in snow-shoe walkinnj, I mav be allowed to make a few remarks upon the intensity of cold in the inhospitable regions of the north, as they are termed. During a calm, whether the thermometer stood at 70° or 7° minus zero, was to me in sensation the same ; and although I have experienced a difference in tomperuture of 80° from cold to heat, and vice versa, in the course of twenty-four hours, still its change was not sufficiently oppressive to put a stop to my usual avocations. I have been shooting grouse at every range of the ther- mometer from the highest to the lowest point, wearing the very same clothing as in England on a summer's day, ^i' a fur cap, moccasins, and mittens excepted, instead of a hat, tanned leather shoes or boots, and kid gloves. 3. idvcn- he ex- i. thus 3Xper 1- icr "was [ I had ospherc h a sin- jeriencc ce a few spitable uving a or 7° lie; and eriiturc le course fficiently tions. I lie ther- wcaring er'sday,<^ tead of a d gloves. SCENE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS. -1- \t *!*i- --^ ,'; V:t:^5*A'i'itf.''-«W«<* ....*- I '\l -i*-'. •'■••»• «<~V^f'. <-^./ y^V'^.!. ; ^i^^l'-^-A 't^i*-» n- A WINTKll IN Till-; AHCTIC ^EGIOXS. 109 Merely a cotton shirt was sufKciont to protect my breast from the most intense cold that has ever been registered; and notwithstanding my waistcoats wore made double breasted, I never felt sufficiently cold to be under the necessity of buttoning them ; neither flan- nel nor leather was worn by me in any way. It must be understood, however, that I am only speaking of the temperature during a calm, or when the atmosphere is but slightly in motion. The lowest descent of the thermometer would not pre ent my making an excur- sion of pleasure; but a higher temperature by 40°, accompanying a stiff breeze, would confine me to the house: the sensation of cold, as I have said before, depends so much more upon the force of the wind than upon the state of the thermometer. Such endurance may appear incredible to those persons who have read each ponderous quarto as it issued forth, fearful in aspect as in subject; and it is no wonder. I was astonished at myself, while sporting in a country always portrayed as unfit either for man or beast ; but, what was my astonishment, when, hopping before me from bough to bough, the lesser red-pole, caught my sight, the little bird that so frequently adorns, in England, the cottager's room ! If so small a creature can find the climates of England and Great Slave Lake equally congenial to its constitution, surely man may exist there. A sudden transition from heat to cold produced cramps ; a fact well worthy the notice of those persons who are subject to that painful disease, — for an extra blanket or two, and a trusty thermometer to indicate when to put them on and pull fhem off, may save much excruciating pain and many restless nights. 10 !iiii'l|i|ll!!ill|i!!l!,l. PEEILOUS ASCENT OF ADAM'S PEAK IN ^^^'■- CEYLON. ^^5 ■-•..>. UT few Eropeans have tad the courage and perseverance to ascend the famous mountain in Ceylon which terminates S^cV^;r'^ in Adam's Peak. Mr. MarshaH, who riiX^^Sj^ made the venture, has given us an ac- ^'^^^ count of the ascent in ]iis Tour in ^eVv-j ►'•a^ V t*^ u-^^Vtnr .^i* ^,,.., Ceylon. This gentleman pei'formed the fatiguing journey in 1819, accompanied by S. Sawers, Esq., Commissioner Jm. ,1 'II :i.li ■•tilliiilK liiilifi'j! .SIRI III ''ill mlm w 'I ri I ' 'I > 'n' I ji N I :^h'Mi :i; i !i miMhiB: 'I ^.K IN courage e famous rrainates laH, -who s an ac- Tour in >urney in nissioner w3 ^5 o -< (1 a di th in lo Oi bu tai . of frc 4 th( 1 i: 1 ii 1 i 1 ' of wit ; lay wh sha for: of pas vaj rosi ser ma| dec in mol an^ cht fticl I'KUILUL'.S Aet'ilNT Ut' ADAM S PliAK IN CEYLON. Ill •»f llovenuo in the Kandyan provinces. Starting from the city of Kandy, and proceeding in a south-westerly direction towards the mountain, the travellers were three days in performing thirty-nine miles, so rugged in parts, and in others covered with forest trees and low jungle, was the country which they had to traverse. On the third day they saw the few huts of the natives, built on the extreme jagged points of the loftiest moun- tains, to escape the ravages of elephants. At the end of this day's journey they were only eighteen miles from the foot of the peak, or the upper cone, yet it took them two days to perform that distance. On the fourth day there was a considerable degree of ascent in thei»road, and they found the trees covered with moss or lichen. For some distance their pathway lay along the ridge of a narrow hill, on each side of which flowed a river. "The river," says Mr. Mar- shall, " at some places fell over stupendous precipices, forming cascades of great magnitude. From the height of one of these cascades the whole mass of water which passed over the rock seemed to rise again in white vapour." Above and beyond these impetuous rivers rose lofty ranges of peaked mountains, the whole pre- senting one of those magnificent pictures which have made men of good taste, who have travelled in Ceylon, declare that it is one of the most picturesque countries in the world. The peak has always been considered as a holy mount, a pilgrimage to which was highly meritorious and beneficial. The returning pilgrims, as an act of charity, always disposed of their walking staves on the face of the hill, so as to assist future travellers in their C (1 112 PKlll LOUS A 1) V KXT U U KS. ascent. When Mr. Marshall and his friend came to a very steep part of the road, they found a succession of these walking-sticks stuck firmly in the earth, and bun- dles of rods '.r id horizontally behind them, by which means tolerable steps were formed. As, however, pil- grimages by the road by which they came had almost ceased since the dominion of the English, all these conveniences were rapidly going to decay. On the sixth day of their journey, when they were four hours going about six miles (all the distance they performed), their guides were frequently at a loss to distinguish the path they ought to follow, from the tracks of wild elephants through the jungle. On reach- ing the top of a very high hill they kad a near view of the peak, which rose before them like an immense acu- minated, or sharp-pointed dome. Whenever the natives, in the course of the journey, caught a glimpse of the holy mount (the Mallua Sri Fade, or " the hill of the sacred foot" in their language), they raised their clasped hands over their heads, and devoutly exclaimed " Saa ! Saa!'\ Their zeal had increased the nearer they ap- proached, but at this point their holy fervour was extreme. The next morning, before they began the fatiguing ascent of the peak, they came to a small river, where the natives performed the ceremony of ablution pre- paratory to the delivery of their offerings at the shrine of the holy foot. Their offerings chiefly consisted of a few small copper coins, which the devotees wrapped in a piece of cloth ; the cloth was then wrapped in a hand- kerchief that encircled their head, it being indispensable ,?* f IT* PERILOUS ASCENT OF ADAM S PEAK IN CEYLON. Ill that the offering should be carried on the head, the noblest portion of the human frame. '«^ From the river the pathway went up a narrow, rugged ravine, — in the wet season the bed of a torrent, and impassable. Thick jungle and loftj trees threw a wild gloom over this hollow, and intercepted the view. When they had made about two-thirds of the ascent they were informed that they were at the place where those who professed the religion of Buddhoo offered needles and thread to their divinity. The Buddhists in their train had thought little of this singular reli- gious duty, for there was only one needle, with a little thread, found among the whole party. This, however, they made do duty for the whole, one succeeding another in taking up the needle and thread, and then replacing it on a small rock to the right of the road. Their way was now more difficult than ever, as the superior portion of the peak consists of an immense cone of granitic rock, bearing no trees, and but very partially covered with vegetation. " The track," says Mr. Marshall, "over several places of this cone is quite abrupt ; and where the pathway leads over a bare declivious rock (tending to some fearful precipice) there are steps cut out in the stone, and iron chains so fixed as to lie along the steps, for the purpose of assisting passengers in ascending and descending." Mr. Marshall and his companion reached the top of the cone about two hours after they had begun to ascend at its base. They found that its narrow apex, which was only twenty-three paces long by eighteen broad, was surrounded by a wall, in which there were two tracks by which alone the mountain can be ascended. 10* i 114 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. The el atfon of this apex is 6800 feet above the level of the sea ; the granitic peak or cone resting upon a very high mountain belonging to the chain which forms the rampart of the upper, country. Nearly in the centre of the enclosed area they saw a large rock, one side of which is shelving, and can be easily ascended. On the top of this mass, which is of granite there stands a small square wooden shed, fastened to the rock, as also to the outer walls, by means of heavy chains. This security is necessary to prevent the edifice being hurled from its narrow base by the vio- lence of the winds. The roof and posts of this little building, which is used to cover the Sri Pade, or holy foot-mark, was adorned with flowers and artificial figures made of party coloured cloth. The impression in the rock they found to have been formed in part by the chisel and in part by elevating its outer border with hard mortar : all the elevations which mark the spaces between the toes of the foot have been made of lime and sand. The impression, which is five feet and a half Jong, two feet and a half broad, and from one and a half to two inches deep, is encircled by a border of gilded copper in which are set a few valueless gems. To use Mr. Marshall's words, " According to the books respecting Buddhoo, it appears that he stepped from the top of the peak to the kingdom of Siam. The Buddhists prof^oS to believe that the impression is a mark made by the last foot of Buddhoo which left Ceylon." We believe it was the Arabs, who traded here in very early ages, that first changed the hero of the tale, and gave the foot-mark to Adam, our first father. ^ .- sue be le level upon a 1 forms in the Q rock, easily "•ranite ened to >f heavy ent the the vio- lis little , or holy artificial ipression part by border nai'k the made of feet and from one a border 3SS gems, the books Dcd from m. The ssion is a rhich left 10 traded e hero of our first PERILOUS ASCENT OF ADAM'S PEAK IN CEYLON. 115 On Mr. Marshall's arriving he found between forty and fifty pilgrims, who had ascended in an opposite direction, already there. They performed their devotions without heeding the strangers, and then suddenly de- parted, and descended the mountain, without seeming to look to the right or to the left. On a shelf on the same rock on which the foot is traced, there is also a srasill temple dedicated to Vishnu, whom the. pilgrims conciliate with ofierings of small sums of money. All the ceremonies were finished in less than a quarter of an hour, when the party instantly proceeded to the opening in the wall, and left the area free to those whose next turn it was. Two Buddhist priests were on duty to take charge of the ofl'erings of the devout, which are forwarded at the end of the season to the chief priest at Kandy. The average annual amount is about £ 250 sterling, an im- portant sum for that people. These priests only reside in this lofty solitude during the period when pilgrims visit it, or from January to April inclusive, being the dry season on the west side of the island. During the wet months the peak is commonly enveloped in clouds, and the ascent to it impracticable. They were attended by a boy, and occupied a little hut immediately without the encircling Avails. They strenuously objected (as did also the natives who had accompanied Mr. Marshall and his friend) to the English travellers remaining there all night, saying that disease and other calamities would be the inevitable consequence of their so doing. Their motive for this objection rose out of their belief, that such a long stay of white men at the sacred spot would be displeasing to their divinities. 116 I'KIU LOUS AI)\'KNTUrvES. I.' ; Seeing, liowcver, that the travellers, who had deter- mined to staj, would not be moved from their purpose, the senior priest gave them a number of plants, soleranli^ assuring them, that by wearing a part of one of them as an amulet, they would be protected from the attack of bears. In like manner parts of other plants wero calculated to defend them from wild elephants ; and others from devils, sickness, &c., &c. One herb that he offered, he said was a sure preservative against misfortunes, sickness, and every kind of evil. The travellers -descended the cone by the opposite route loading to Saifragam, which they found to be still more abrupt than that by which they had ascended coming from Kandy. In several places it led them across bare, slippei-y, precipitous rocks. There were no steps cut, as on the other side of the cone, but in the more difficult and dangerous places there were strong iron chains fastened to the rock, to assist ascent and descent. At two or three turns the vie>v down- ward was grand and awful in the extreme, the cone at these points seeming to overhang the lower mountain, by which means the eye plunged perpendicularly almost to the base of the peak. Meanwhile the sun shining brightly upon the space where the view terminated at the bottom of the mountain, increased thereby the sublimity of the prospect. "It is impossible," says Mr. Marshall, in concluding his interesting sketch of this remarkable place, " to describe the terrific grandem of the scone ; but indeed the prospect is so frightful, that I believe it is rarely contemplated with due com posure." ... ■^ ^ . * tit! AFriCAN cmiF ADVENTURES OF ]^>UUCKIlAKi)T. tr-. OllN LEWIS BURCKIIARD1 was born at linusimnc, in Switz- erland, in the year 1784. He came to England in 1800, and, being provided with a letter of introduction to Sir Joseph Banks, who, it will ho recollected, was the means f)f introducing c 118 PEKILOUS ADVENTUllES. both Ledyard and Park to the African Association, he soon imbibed so much of this distinguished man's ardour, that he oiFcred his services to the association, and was accepted. He, accordingly, began diligently to study the Ara- oic language ; and, as it was thought he would be more likely to proceed undisturbed by the Moors, from whom we have seen that most of Park's sufferings proceeded, if he travelled disguised as a native of the east, the association instructed him first to proceed to Syria, where he was to remain two years for the purpose of completing his Arabic studies, and to acquire oriental habits land manners sufficient to make him pass unsus- pected by the Moors. He was then to proceed to Cairo, to join one of the car;! vans which leave that town for Mourzuk, and thus to proceed into the inte- rior of Africa. Burckhardt sailed from England early in 1809, and arrived at Malta in safety. Here he equipped himself entirely in the style of an oriental, assuming the clia- racter of an Indian Moliauimcdan merchant, and sailed for Acre, whence he hi ped to be able to reach Tripoli, in Syria, or Latakia. After being twice duped by the captains of the little trading vessels, with whom ho engaged a passage, by their telling him, when he was fairly embarked, that they were not going to the place which they had represented, he reached the coast of Syria at Suedieh. Having bargained with the mule- teers for the transpoit of himself and baggage to A!(jt[)o, he was bi-ginning to load the mules, when he received a message from the aga or Turkish governor of the place, requesting to see him. Our traveller ^ f'-i Al>VE2' ■ ■ ."■ ,' Eimiue , and »f the »f one d the 1, ex- which d not )f ten ^ ga of • nly a i dls- great ed so ^• I last asked pull m be bject, ifi -:•;':" ■■;*: " : ■ ■ , " ■'''' 3 face ' ■ ■'• - / ■ , /:'■■■■ ''■•"' ■i- ■■ ppre- j com- veller • •'^ ■■'-.'? :.* ey to Arab •''' ^ " atter, • • rater. if..*.- ,and ■1, , Pal- •• • ADVENTUKES 01' BUllCKlIAllDT. 123 that it was unsafe to this direction, H ^ rocectl far til or ii he now directed his steps to Damascus. At this city he was obliged to remain upwards of six weeks, in consequence of the disturbed state of the country. He contrived, however, to accomplish two journeys to places of celebrity — one to Baalbec and Mount Libanus, and the other into the Ilauraii, the patrimony of the patriarch Abraham. The latter jour- ney occupied him twenty-six days ; but the fatigue to which he was exposed was amply repaid by the inter- esting scenes amidst which it was accomplished. At every step he discovered vestiges of ancient cities, the remains of ruined temples and other public edifices ; and had opportunities of copying many inscriptions, which serve to throw light upon the history of this, at that time, almost unknown country. Burckhardt then proceeded to Aleppo, whence he penetrated into the desert towards the Euphrates. In this excursion he was robbed and stripped to the skin, BO that he had to return to oukhne, a village almost five days' journey from Aleppo, his body blistered by the rays of the sun, and without having accomplished any of the objects of his journey. -^ _^ With the true spirit of an enterprising traveller, Burckhardt, as soon as the rainy season was over, again set out towards the Dead Sea. On this journey he encountered many difficulties — was stripped of his money by a treacherous Bedouin, to whose care he confided himself; and was at length obliged to wander from one Arab encampment to another, till he at last found a person who was willing to carry him to Egypt. As they proceeded up the valley of Ghor, Burckhardt c 124 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. ;i: ff) It was fortunate enough to discover the ruins of Petra, the capital of Arabia Petraeia, a spot till then unknown to Europeans. His conductor, however, allowed him merely a glance at these majestic ruins, whose magnifi- cence have since astonished more recent beholders. Shortly after leaving this place they fell in with a small caravan of Arabs, who were proceeding to Cairo with a few camels for sale. To this party Burckhardt joined himself, and travelled the remainder of the way in their company. As no immediate opportunity offered for entering on the great object of his mission, Burckhardt next turned his attention to Nubia. He purchased a couple of drome-* daries, and furnishing himself with a firman from the bashaw, and several private letters to the Nubian chiefs, he set out, accompanied by his guide, on the 14th of February, 1813. He travelled along the eastern bank of the Nile, and proceeded, not only without molestation, but, on the contrary, was generally received in a hospitable man- ner at the Nubian villages. Burckhardt continued his course without any remark- able adventure till he arrived at the Manass territory, where he found two of the principal Mameluke chiefs, with a band of retainers, amounting to about a hundred and twenty men, engaged in celebrating the capture of the castle of Tinareh, which had surrendered on the day preceding our traveller's arrival. Suspecting that Burckhardt was a spy in the pay of Mohammed Ali, the bashaw of Egypt, the chief threat- ened to send his head as a present to Ibrahim Beg, the chief of the Mamelukes ; and a long consultation was ADVENTURES OF BUUCKIIARDT. 125 held with his confidants to decide what was to be done with him. Fortunately, before they decided on such an unpleasant experiment as the language of the chief seemed to threaten, the arrival of two of their friends, who had seen Burckhardt in another part of the coun- try convinced them of their error. They were still anxious, however, to extort something from him in the way of presents or otherwise ; and when he went to take \i\a leave of Mohammed Kashef, he persisted so much m desiring him to defer his departure, that our traveller at last found it necessary to tell him that he was not permitted to act as he pleased, he considered himself a prisoner, and that he must take the conse- quence of his detention. " Go then, you rascal !" at last exclaimed this refined chieftain, in his usual brutal language. Burckhardt did not require to be twice told. In five minutes he had mounted his camel and was out of sight of the camp, where he had spent one of the most uncomfortable days which had yet occurred to him during the course of his travels. They had now arrived at Derr, and here his trusty guide, who had accompanied him on this journey, left him. At parting Burckhardt presented him with a woolen mellaye, a sort of shawl which is worn about the neck and shoulders by the Egyptians, and a small sum of money, with which he was infinitely delighted. Having provided himself with a n^w guide, our travel- ler continued his journey, visiting such remains of anti- quity as lay in his route : copying the inscriptions in the ruined temples, and gathering much new and interest- ing information regarding the details of these buildings, and the history and manners of the ancient inhabitants. 11* C 120 PKIUI.OUS ADVKNTURES. % On the 9th of April he ronchcd Eano, where he re malncd nearly twelve months, waiting for the opportu- nity of joining a caravan travelling towards the interior of Nubia in a more easterly direction. Two days after their departure, the caravan was attacked by a party of wandering Bedouins, who claimed tribute for allowing it to pass. After much clamour and some hard fighting, in which, however, no blood was shed, the chiefs interfered on both sides, and put an end to the dispute, and the caravan was at length allowed to pass without paying tribute. The weather was now excessively hot; and, as they advanced into the desert, their suflferings from want of water became daily more severe. At length, on their arrival at the wells of Nedjej^tn, finding them empty, and being thus unable to replenish their stock, the whole party were in the greatest dejection, foreseeing that all the asses must very soon die, if not speedily supplied with, this necessary article, and none of the traders had more than a few draughts for his own per- sonal use. After a long deliberation, they at length came to the only determination that could save them, namely ; to send ten or twelve of the strongest camels to bring a supply from the nearest point of the Nile. They were not more than a journey of five or six hours distant from the Nile, but its banks being in- habited by a hostile tribe of Arabs,. it was impossible for the whole caravan to proceed thither. It was therefore arranged that a party should set out in the afternoon, so as to arrive on the banks of the river during the night, and having filled the water skins, to return as speedily and stealthily as possible. i ADVKNTURES OP BimCKIIAIlbT. 127 Those ^vllo remained in the meanwhilo passed tho evening in tho greatest anxiety ; for, if tho camels should not return, they had little hope of escape from either death by thirst, or by the sword of their enemies, who, if they had once caught a glance of the camels, would have traced their footsteps in the sand, and thus discovered and plundered the caravan. At length, about three o'clock in the morning, tho distant halloo- ings of their watermen broke upon their ears ; and they soon refreshed themselves with copious draughts of tho delicious water of the Nile. On the 23d of March, tho caravan arrived at Ank- heyre, the principal town in tho district of Berber, whence, after resting fourteen days, they again set. out. Burckhardt was not at all sorry to leave this place, for the character of its inhabitants was so bad that a stranger can never consider himself safe among them for a moment. Matters were not much mended on their arrival at Ras-el-wady, where the mek, or governor, forced them to pay very heavy fines, under the name of transit duties. Fortunately his contributions did not fall very severely on our traveller, who, foreseeing the probabil- ity of some such danger, had disposed of his ass, which was the best animal in the caravan, to one of his fellow traders, taking in exchange a less powerful beast, and a small sum of money. The spirited animal soon caught the attention of the mek, and he insisted on its being presented to him, much to the dissatisfaction of its new owner, who had only gained possession of it on the preceding day^. At Damer, tho caravan halted five days. This place 128 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. li!!;; BUBOKHABST SSLLINa BEADS. is chiefly inhabited by Fokara, or religious men. The governor, or chief is called Faky el Kebir, or the Great Faky. The family in which this dignity is hereditary, have the reputation of being endowed with such super- atural powers that nothing can withstand their spells. So powerful are these that the father of the present faky is said on one occasiou to have caused a lamb to bleat in the stomach of the thief who had stolen it, and afterwards eaten it. As there is no daily market at Da'taer, nor any shops ADVENTURES OP BURCKHARDT. 129 The rreat tary, iper- )ells. sent »b to and hops where articles can be bought except on the weekly market-day, Burckhardt was under the necessity of imitating his companions, and going from house to house with some strings of beads in his hands, offering thera for sale at about four handsful of corn for each bead. "I gained at this rate," says he, "about sixty per cent, on the prime cost ; and at the same time had an opportunity of entering many private houses, and studying the manners and habits of the people." So strong is the belief of the credulous natives in the powers of the fakies, that the mere sight of them walk- ing unarmed at the head of a caravan is sufficient to protect it. The services of several were therefore secured, and the party again set out, and reached Hawaya in safety. This village forms the northern frontier of the territory of Shendy. As he understood it to be a safe place, Burckhardt took some beads to exchange for bread, in the village. After a long and fruitless search, he was met by two men, "^ho invited him to go home with them, telling him that their wives would take the beads. Burckhardt accordingly fol- lowed them, until they reached a narrow, unfrequented lane, when they turned short upon him, snatched away the beads, tore off his cap, and then, finding that, unarmed as he was, he still made some resistance, they drew their swords. Burckhardt then considered that it was time to take to his heels, and rejoined his com panions, who laughed at his misfortunes. He after- wards applied for redress to the sheikh of the village, who recovered the cap and beads for him, but insisted on being paid, as a compliment, twice the value of the stolen goods. c 180 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. On their arrival at Shendy, Burckhardt abandoned all idea of proceeding farther south, and resolved to take the route for the Red Sea. He disposed of all his little adventure of merchandise, and purchased a slave boy, partly for the sake of having a constant and useful companion, and partly to aiford him an ostensi- ble reason for going in the direction of the Red Sea, •where he might expect to sell him at a profit. He also purchased a camel, and having laid in a supply of provisions for the journey, he set out on the ITth of May. In this journey the caravan was exposed to a violent hurricane ; " the most tremendous," says Burckhardt, "that I ever remember to have witnessed. A dark blue cloud first appeared ; as it approached nearer, and increased in height, it assumed an ash-gray colour, with a tinge of yellow, striking every person in the caravan who had not been accustomed to such phe- nomena with amazement at its magnificent and terrific appearance : as the clouds approached still nearer, the yellow tinge became more general, while the horizon presented the brightest azure. At last it burst upon us in its rapid course, and involved us in darkness and confusion ; nothing could be distinguished at the dis- tance of five or six feet, our eyes were filled with dust, our temporary sheds blown down at the first gust, and many more firmly fixed tents followed. The largesl withstood for a time the efiFects of the blast, but were at last obliged to yield, and the whole camp was levelled with the ground. In the meantime, the terrified camels arose, broke the cords by which they were fastened, and endeavoured to escape from the destruction which ADVENTURES OP BURCKHARDT. 131 appeared to threaten them, thus adding not a little to our embarrassment. After blowing about half an hour with increased violence, the wind suddenly abated; and, when che atmosphere became clear, the tremendous cloud was seen continuing its havoc to the north-west. At length, on the 26th of June, they arrived at Sou^kin, after journeying through a wild, picturesque country, and pitched their tents at a short distance from the town. On the following day they were visited by the emir, who came in person to levy the customary contributions. Understanding that Burckhardt's camel was famed in the caravan for its strength and agility, he wished to secure it, telling him that all camela brouglit from Soudan by foreign traders were his. Bui'ckhardt refused to comply with this unjust demand, and insisted on the matter being referred to. the Turk- ish custom-liouse officer. He was accordingly carried before the aga, who, having been instructed by ..le emir, addressed Burckhardt in a very haughty and repulsive manner. Burckhardt at first refused to answer; but at length told him that he had come to hear from his own mouth whether the emir was entitled, to his camel. " Not only thy camel," he replied, " but the whole of thv bairirnfie must be taken and searched;" and, affecting to treat him as a Mameluke spy, or refugee, he continued; "you shall not impose upon us, you rascal ; yon may be thankful if we do not cut oflf your head !" Burclchardt, seeing there was no other way of escape, now drew from his pocket the two firmans or letters with which he had provided himself before setting out, one of which was sealed with the great seal of Mohammed Ali. The change from haughty c 132 PERILOrR ADVENTURES. Mi'llAMMKD ALI. insolence to base servility was instantaneous. The aga kissed tlic papers, pressed them to his forehead, and apologized for his conduct in the most submissive terms. Nothing more was said about the emir's right to the cauiel, and Burckhardt's slave even was allowed to ]iass duty free. Afraid of the reports which our tiiiveilor might make to the bashaw respecting his government in Souakin, the aga tried every means in lis j)!t\vcr to ingratiate himself with him. He invited him to his tabic daily, and offered him a present of a slave, and one of his own dresses, both of which marks -4 ^ The aga ead, and re terms, it to the owed to lich our ting his neans in e invited ent of a ih marks ADVENTUUES OF liURCKlIAllDT. 133 of kindness, however, Burckhardt thought proper to decline. From Souakin our traveller sailed for Djidda, on the opposite shore of tlie Red Sea, on the 6th of July, and after suffering much inconvenience from the crowded state of the vessel, and the inadequate supply of water, as well as the unskilful navigation of the Ara- bian sailors, they arrived at Djidda on the 18th of July. More than three-fourths of the time had been consumed in sailing lazily along the coast, disembdrking every evening, and passing the night on shore. Having obtained permission from the bashaw, he accordingly set out for Mecca, and witnessed and took part in the singular and absurd ceremonial, at the per- formance of which were gathered an immense crowd of people from every corner of the Mohammedan world — the principal men accompanied by long retinues of attendants, their equipments vicing with each other in splendour and magnificence. He also performed a pilgrimage to the tomb of the Prophet, at Medina. From Medina he travelled to Yembo, where, on his arrival, he found the plague raging with the greatest violence. After remaining here three weeks, he found his way to Tor, where he recovered his health. He arrived at Cairo on the 24th of June, after an absence of nearly two years and a half. From Cairo he afterwards made one or two unim- portant excursions, in one of which he reached Mount Sinai, and traced the course of the Red Sea as far as Akaba. At Cairo Burckhardt remained for some time, ar- ranging the journals of his Arabian and Nubian travels, 12 C 134 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. and waiting the opportunity of joining a Moggrebin caravan, to penetrate into Africa. While thus en gaged, he was attacked by a disease which carried him off after an illness of eleven days, notwithstanding the best medical attendance which the place could afford. ABAB SROAUFiraNT, conv AUAMtANS. A TRAVELLER'S ENCOUNTER WITH ALBANESE BRIGANDS. ,. ,, ,.., BOUT 1832, the brigands were numerous in Greece, and attacks upon travellers and villages were frequent. An English traveller, who experienced their hostility, has left us the following account of their attack upon a village. Our first care on landing had been to negociate for horses to convey ourselves and our baggage to Nauplia. We C 136 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. were quietly eating our breakfast, in expectation of their arriyal, when a messenger came in breathless hasto to announce that a party of irregular soldiers, or Albanese, as they are generally called, "was coming down to pillage the place. We immediately re-shipped all our baggage, and, having prepared our arms, awaited the arrival of these formidable brigands. In the meantime the news had spread the utmost terror and confusion through all the inhabitants of Epidanrus. The women and children crowded around us, weeping, crying, wringing their hands, and imploring us to tal. ...f-.-f-.ti. ed to • t. - ' vhero /.'! 'a ained ! . aces, S * were - - othoi • ■ ?>«" ", • MIXICAN MABKET-WOUAN. ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. EXICO was appropriately called "New Spain" by its adventurous conquer- ors. The title was prophetic of its character. The country has many features in common with old Spain — beauties and barrens being thickly and alternately spread throughout its extent. The Spanish language is in common use, and the generality of the people have the vices and virtues of the Spanish character — being haughty, pleasure- loving, superstitious, and ti*eacherous. A recent traveller in Mexico — Mr. George Frederic I \ 142 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. ■■1 1 : Ruxton — has published some very interesting and instructive sketches of his journey and adventures, written in that simple and direct style which one loves to find in such a work. Hie observed acutely, and caught the spirit of the people and institutions of the country. Landing at the city of Vera Cruz, Mr. Rux- ton was struck with its singular situatioii and features. He says : — From the sea the coast on each side of the town presents a dismal view of sand hills, which appear almost to swallow up the walls. The town, however, sparkling in the sun, with its white houses and numer- ous church-spires, has rather a picturesque appearance ; but every object, whether on sea or land, glows unna- turally in the lurid atmosphere. It is painful to look into the sea, where shoals of bright-coloured fish are swimming ; and equally painful to turn the eyes to the shore, where the sun, refracted by the sand, actually scorches the sight, as well as pains it by the quivering glare which ever attends refracted light! -■ The city is well planned, surrounded by an adobe wall, with wide streets crossing each other at right angles. There are also several l".i"ge and handsome buildings fast mouldering to decay. One hundred years ago a flourishing commercial city, like every thing in Spanish America-, it has suffered from the baneful effects of a corrupt, impotent government. Now, with a scanty population, and under the control of a military despot- ism, its wealth and influence have passed away. The aspect of the interior of the town is dreary and deso- late beyond description. Grass grows in the streets and squares ; the churches and public buildings are ADVENTUllES TN MEXICO. 143 falling to ruins ; scarcely a human being is to be met, and the few seen are sallow and lank, and skulk through the streets as if fearing to encounter, at every corner, the personification of the dread vomito, which at this season (August) is carrying oflf a tithe of the population. Every where stalks the " sopilote" (turkey- buzzard,) sole tenant of the streets, feeding on the garbage and carrion which abound in every corner. Before delivering my letters I went t-i a fonda, or inn, kept by a Frenchman, but in Mexico-Spanish style. Here I first made acquaintance with the/W;We, a small black bean, which is the main food of the lower classes over the whole of Mexico, and is a standing dish on every table both of the rich and poor. The cuisine, being Spanish, was the best in the world, the wine good, and abundance of ice from Orizaba. Among the company at the fonda was a party of Spanish padres, a capellan of a Mexican regiment, and a Capuchin friar. I w^as invited one evening to their room, and w^as rather surprised when I found I was in for a regu- lar punch-drinking bout. The Capuchino presided at the bowl, which he concocted with considerable skill ; and the jolly priests kept it up until the gray of the morning, when they all sallied out to mass, it being the feast of San Isidro. The next day I accompanied this clerical party to he castle of San Juan de Ulloa, which we were allowed inspect in every part. I thought it showed very iittle caution, for I might have been an American for all they knew to the contrary. The fortress is con- structed with considerable skill, but is in very bad repair. It is said to mount three hundred and fifty c 144 PERILOUS ABVKNTUUKS. pieces of artillery, many of heavy caliber, but is defi- cient in mortars. The garrison did not amount to more than seven hundred men, although they were in hourly expectation of an attack by the American squadron ; and such a miserable set of naked objects as they were, could scarcely be got togetner in any other part of the world. Our party was ciceroned by an aid-de-camp of the governor, who took us into every hole and cornei of the works. The soldiers' barracks were dens unfit for hogs, without air or ventilation, and crowded to suffocation. In one of the batteries were some fine ninety-eight- pounders, all English manufacture, but badly mounted, and some beautiful Spanish brass guns. Not the slightest discipline was apparent in the garrison, and scarcely a sentinel was on the look-out, although the American squadron was in sight of the castle, and an attack was hourly threatened. On the side facing the island of Sacrificios the defences were very weak ; indeed, I saw no obstruction of sufficient magnitude to prevent half a dozen boat's crews making a dash in the dark at the water-batteries, where at this time Avere neither guns nor men, nor one sentry whose post would command this exposed spot ; thence to cross the ditch which had but two or three feet of water in it, blow open the gate of the fortress with a bag of powder, and no organized resistance could be dreaded when once in the castle. I pointed this out to one of the officers of the garrison. He answered, " No hay cuidado ! no hay cuidado ! somos muy valientes," "Never fear, never fear! we are very brave here." "Si quieren, loa o > H O > ^« los C c ^^■i -//-, ; i/ ^■W^ m f i,'.;i .: • »t* *■ ■ ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 141 HATIONAL fiUIKIK. Americanos, que vengan" — " If the Americans like to try, let them come." As we returned at night to Vera Cruz, a dull, yellow- ish haze hung over the town. I asked the " patron" of the boat what it was. Taking his cigar from his mouth, he answered quite seriously, " Senor, es el vomito — it's the fever." In spite of the " weak" condition of the city of Vera Cruz and its castle at the time of Mr. Ruxton's visit, they made a good defence when besieged by the United States forces, under Gen. Winfield Scott. The city sus- tained a bombardment of several days before it yielded. Mr. Ruxton now took the road towards the capital. C 148 rEuiLous Ai)VF.N-Trr.i:Fi, After crossing tlic beautiful National Bridge, he reached the Plan del llio, where ho was forced to put up at one of those miserable inns, so common in Mexico, of which he gives the following humourous account : " At sunset we reached El Plan del Rio, a miserable venta, which we found crowded with cavalry soldiers and their horses, so that Ave had great trouble in find- ing room for our own animals. This hostelry belonged to the genus meson, a variety of the inn species to bo found only in Mexico. It was, however, a paradise compared to the mesones north of the city of Mexico ; and I remember that I often looked back upon this one, which Castillo and I voted the most absolutely miser able of inns, as a sort of Clarendon or Mivarts. Round the corral, or yard, where were mangers for horses and mules, were several filthily dirty rooms, without win dows or furniture. These were the guests' chambers. Mine host and his family had separate accommodations for themselves, of course ; and into this part of the man sion Castillo njanaged to introduce himself and me, and to procure some supper. The chamhernvid — who, unlocking the door of the room apportioned to us, told us to beware of the mala gente (the bad people) who were about — was a dried-up old man, with a long, grizzled beard and matted hair, which fell, guiltless of comb or brush, on his shoulders. He was perfectly horrified at our uncomplimentary remarks concerning the cleanliness of the apartment, about the floor of which troops of fleas were carracoling, while flat, odor- iferous bugs Avere sticking in patches to the walls. My request for some water for the purpose of washing almost knocked hira down Avith the heinousness of tho M de sa a 8\^ la qi] ■■>^';^-| iV' ' ^ is V'-. ."^'^ * ^"V -" < .' ' vv''-1->v -" . qi ' ■-■"■'"?/■'•''■ — . do '■'A ", C< , ex ■>'■., '-.r' ';_■■ to '-,-f'---<*f. ■'* ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 151 demand ; but when he had brought a littUj carthen-waro saucer, holding about a table-spoonful, and I asked for a towel, he stared at me, open-mouthed, without an- swering, and then burst out into an immoderate fit of laughter. "Ay que hombre, Ave Maria Purissima, que loco es este!" — Oh, what a man, what a madman is this! " Servilletta, panugla, toalla, que demonio quiere ?" — towel, napkin, hanokerchief — what the devil does he want ? — repeating the different terms I used to explain that I wanted a towel. " Ha, ha ha ! es medio tonto, es medio tonto" — a half-witted fellow, I see. " Que demonio ! quire agua, quire toalla !" what the d — 1 ! he wants water, towels, every thing. " Adios !" Attaining the tierra templada, or temperate region, our traveller next approached Jalapa: " Jalapa, the population of which is nearly seventeen thousand, is situated at the foot of Macultepec, at an elevation of four thousand three hundred and thirty- five feet above the level of the sea. Unfortunately, this elevation is about that which the strata of clouds reach, when, suspended over the ocean, they come in contact with the ridge of the Cordillera, and this ren- ders the atmosphere exceedingly humid and disagree- able, particularly in northeasterly winds. In summer, however, the mists disappear, the sun shines brightly, and the sky is clear and serene. At this time the climate is perfectly heavenly ; the extremes of heat and cold are never experienced, and an even genial temper- ature prevails, highly conducive to health and comfort. Fever is here unknown ; the dreaded : vomito never makes its appearance on the table-land ; and, in spite of the humid climate, sickness is comparatively rare C 152 PERiLor;^ AnvEXHiRnj<. and seldom fatal. The avcvago tciupcraturc is 60 to 65° in Bummor. On a bright, t unny day the scciiory round Juliipa is not to bo surpassed ; mountains bound the horizon, except on one side, where a distant view of the sea adds to the beauty of the scene. Orizaba, Avith its snow- capped peak, appears so close that one imn<^inos it is within reach ; and rich and evergreen forests clothe the surrounding hills. In the foreground are beautiful gardens, with fruits of every clinic — the biuiuna and fig, the orange, cherry, and apple. The town is irregu- larly built, but picturesque ; the houses are in the style of Old Spain, with windows to the gi-(>\ind, juid barred, in which sit the Jalaponas, with tiieir beiiulit'iilly fair complexions and eyes of fire. Near Jalapa are two or three cotton-f;lctories, which I believe pay well. They are under the management of English and Ame: icans. The girls employed in the works are all Indians or ^lestizas, healthy and good- looking. They are very apt in learning their work, and soon comprehend ' the various uses of the machi- nery. In the town there is but little to see. The church is said to have been founded by Cortez, and there is also a Franciscan convent. However, a stranger is amply interested in walking about the streets and market, where he will see much that is strange and ew. The vicinity of Jalapa, although poorly cultivated, produces maize, wheat, grapes, jalap (from which plant it takes its name,) and a little lower down the cordillera grow the vanilla, the bean which is so highly esteemed for its aromatic flavour, and the fruits of the tempo %te and torrid zones. c INTERIOR OF A MEXICAN HOllSE. > x .. J,> ■-.>,»■-»,> IT*' AbVENTUUKS IN MKXICO. 155 On inquiry as to tho modes of travelling from Jalapa to the city of Mexico, I found that the journey in tho diligencia to the capital was to be preferred to any this season, on account of the rains ; although by the former there was almost a certainty of being robbed or attacked. So much a matter of course is this disa- greeable proceeding, that the Mexicans invariably cal- culate a certain sum for the expenses of tho road, including the usual fee for los cahalleros del camino. All baggage is sent by the arrieros or muleteers, by which means it is insured from all danger, although a long time on the road. The usual charge is twelve dollars a carga, or mule-load of two hundred pounds, from Vera Cruz to the capital, being from ten to twenty days on the road. The Mexicans never dream of resisting the robbers, and a coach load of nine is often stopped and plundered by one man. The ladroncs> however, often catch a Tartar if a party of foreigners should happen to be in the coach ; and but the other day, two Englishmen, one an officer of the Guards, the other a resident in Zacatecas, being in a coach which was stopped by nine robbers, near Puebla, on being ordered to alight and hocahaxo — throw themselves on their noses — replied to the request by shooting a couple of them, and, quietly resuming their seats, proceeded on their journey. During my stay two English naval officers arrived in the diligencia from Mexico. As they stepped on* bristling with arms, the Mexican by-standers eijuoul itcd, " Valgame Dios !" What men these English are ! "Esos son hombres!" — These are men! The last week the coach was robbed three times, and a poor C 156 PERILOUS ADV ..NTllliES. Gachupin, mistakon for an EnrrlislimaTi, was nearly killed, the robbers having vowed vengeance against the pale-faces for the slaughter of their two comrades at Puebla ; and a few months before, two robbers crawled upon the conch during the night, and putting a pistol through the leathern panels, shot an unfortunate pas- senger in the head, who, they had been informed, carried arms and was determined to resist. There is not a travelling Mexican who cannot narrate to you his experiences on " the road ;" and scarcely a foreigner in the country', more particularly English and Ame- ricans, who has not come to blows with the ladrones at some period or other of his life. • r ■^■:- p .-v'''; Such being the satisfactory state of affairs, before starting on this dangerous expedition, and particularly as I carried all my baggage with me (being too old a soldier ever to part with that,) assisted by mine host, I had a minute inspection of arms and ammimition, all of which was put in perfect order. One fine morning, therefore, I took my seat in the diligencia, with a for- midable battery of a double-barrel rifle, a ditto carbine, two brace of pistols, and a blunderbuss. Blank were the faces of my four fellow-passengers when I entered thus equipped. They protested, they besought — every one's life would be sacrificed, were one of the party to resist. " Senores," I said, " here are arms for you all ; better for you to fight than be killed like a rat." No, they washed their hands of it, would have nothing to do with gun or pistol. "Yaya: noes el costumbre" — it is not the custom, they said. From Jalapa the road constantly ascends, and we are now leaving the tierra templada, the region of oaks ADVKNTL'JtES IN JIKXIt'O. 157 UKZICAM ncT. and liquid amber, for the still more elevated regions of the tierra fria^ called cold^ however, merely by com- parison, for the temperature is equal to that of Italy, and the lowest range of the thermometer is G2°. Tlie whole table-land of Mexico belongs to this division. The scenery here becomes mountainous and grand ; and on the right of the road is a magnificent cascade, which tumbles from the side of the mountain to the depth of several hundred feet. The villages are few, and fifteen or twenty miles apart, and the population scanty and miserable. No signs of cultivation appear, but little patches of maize and chile, in the midst of which is an Indian hut of reeds and flags. In the eve- ning we passed through a fine plain in which strfhds the town and castle of Perote. ■• At eleven next day we stopped to breakfast, and were joined by a stout wench of La Puebla, with a nut- brown, face, and teeth as white as snow. She informed us that there were muy mala gente on the road — very bad people — who had robbed the party with which she was travelling but the day before ; and, being muy sin verguenza — shameless rascals — had behaved very rudely to the ladies of the party. Our buxom companion was dressed in Poblana style. Her long black hair was lo8 I'EllILOrS ADVi:XTURES. i combed over her ears, from which descended huge silver earrings; the red enagua, or short petticoat, fringed with yellow, and fastened round her waist with a silk band ; from her shoulders to the waist a chemi- sette was her only covering, if we except the gray reboso drawn over her head and neck ; and on her small naked foot was a tiny shoe with silver buckle. However, we reached Puebla safe and sound, and droVe into the yard of the Fonda de las Diligencias, where the coach and its contents were minutely in spectcd by a robber-spy, who, after he had counted the passengers and their arms, immediately mounted his horse and gallopped away. This is done every day, and in the teeth of the authorities, who wink at the cool proceeding. ' 1- ..^;;,. The same manners, customs, and general institutions noted by travellers in old Spain are to be found in Mexico, slightly modified by the republican form of government. k'.j- Puebla, the capital of the intendancy of that name, is one of the finest cities in Mexico. Its streets are wide and regular, and the houses and public buildings are substantially built, and in good taste. The popu- lation, which is estimated at between eighty and one hundred thousand, is the most vicious and demoralized in the republic. It was founded by the Spaniards, in 1631, on the site of a small village of Cholula Indians, and, from its position and the fertility of the surround- ing country, was unsurpassed by any other city in the Spanish Mexican dominions. The province is rich in the remains of Mexican antiquities. The fortifications of Tlaxcaila and the pyramids of Cholula are worthy c ;? ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 161 of a visit, and the noble cypress of Atlixo is seventy- six feet in circumference, and, according to Humboldt, the "oldest vegeta le monument" in the world. We left Puebla early in the morning, and as day broke, a scene of surpassing beauty burst upon us. The sun, rising behind the mountain, covered the sky with a cold, silvery light, against which the peaks stood in bold relief, while the bases were still veiled in gloom. Passing through a beautiful country, we reached Rio- Frio, a small plain in the midst of the mountains, and muy mal punto for the robbers, as the road winds through a pine-forest, into which they can escape in case of repulse. The road is lined with crosses, which here are veritable monuments of murders perpetrated on travellers. Here, too, we took an escort, and, when we had passed the pinol, the corporal rode up to the windows, saying, " Ya sesretira la escolta," — the escort is about to retire ; in other words, Please remember the guard. Each passenger presented him with the custom- ary dos reales, and the gallant escort rode off quite contented. Here, too, all the worst puntos being passed, my companions drew long breaths, muttered *' Ave Maria Purissima — ^gracias si Dies ya no hay cui- dado," and lighted their cigars. We soon after crested the ridge of the mountain, and, descending a winding road, turned an abrupt hill, and, just as I was settling myself in the corner for a good sleep, my arm waa seized convulsively by my opposite neighbour, who, with half his body out of the window, vociferated : " Hi esta, hi esta, mire, por Dios, mire !" — Look out for God's sake ! there it is. Thinking a ladi'on was in sight, I seized my gun; but my friend, seeing my mistake, 14* 162 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. n No, no, Mejico, Mejico, la drew in his head, saying, ciudad!" To stop the coach and jump on the box was the work of a moment ; and, looking down from the same spot where probably Cortez stood three hundred years ago, before me lay the city and valley of Mexico, bathed by the soft flooding light of the setting sun. He must be insensible, indeed a clod of clay, who does not feel the blood thrill in his veins at the first sight of this beautiful scene. What must have been the feelings of Cortez, when, with his handful of followers, he looked down upon the smiling prospect at his feet, the land of promise which was to repay them for all the toil and dangers they bad encountered ! >■■ The first impression which struck me on seeing the valley of Mexico was the perfect, almost unnatural, tranquillity of the scene. The valley, which is about sixty miles long by forty in breadth, is on all sides inclosed by mountains, the mosu elevated of which are on the southern side ; in the distance are the volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, and numerous peaks of difierent elevation. The lakes of Tezcuco and Chalco glitter in the sun like burnished iilver, or, shaded by the vapours which often rise from them, lie cold and tranquil on the plain. The distant view of the city, with its white buildings and numerous churches, its egular streets and shaded paseos, greatly augments the beauty of the scene, over which floats a solemn, delightful tranquillity. On entering the town, one is struck with the regu- larity of the streets, the chaste architecture of the buildings, the miserable appearance of the population. ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 163 VIKW OP THE V0I.CAX0K8 KKOM MEXICO. the downcast look of the men, the absence of ostenta- tious display of wealth, and the prevalence of filth which every where meet the eye. On every side the passen- ger is importuned for charity. Disgusting lepers whine for clacos ; maimed and mutilated wretclies, mounted on the backs of porters, thrust out their distorted limbs and expose thrir sores, urging their human steeds to increase their pace as their victim increases his to avoid them. Rows of cripples are brought into the streets the firs<" thing in the morning, and deposited against a wall, whence their infernal whine is heard the 161 TEUILOUS ADVExN'TURES. livelong day. Cries such as these every where salute the ear : " Jesus Maria Puriseima ; una corta cariilad, cabal- lero, en el nombre do la santis^inia madro de Dios ; una corta caridad, y Dios, lo pi'.gara a ustcd." — In the name of Jesus, the son of the most pure Mary, bestow a little charity, my lord ; for tlie sake of the most holy mother of God, bestow a trilie, and God will repay you. Mexico is the head-quarters of dirt. The streets are dirty, the houses are dirty, the men are dirty, and the women dirtier, and every thing }ju cat and drink is dirty. This love of dirt only refers to the Mexicans proper, since the Gac]iui)ines,* and all foreigners in the city, and those iSIcxicans who have boon abroad, keep them- selves aloof and clean. The streets are filled with leperos, with officers in uniform (pleasing themselves as to the style,) with priests, and fat and filthy Capu- chinos, friars and monks. ..-..- - Observe every countonanco ; with hardly an excep- tion, a physiognomist will dctei^t the expression of vice, and crime, and conscious guilt in each. No one looks you in tlic face, but all slouch past with downcast eyes and hangdog look, intent upon thoughts that will not bear the liglit. The slioi;s are poor and ill supplied, thu markets filthy in the extreme. Let no fastidious touiach look into the tortiUcrias, the shops where pastiy is made. ■• The (Jaclmpin is tlio tcnn of contempt ■vvliich Tvas bestowetl upon thu Spiiniui'ila in the W:ii" of liulepondeucc, and is now invari- ably nseJ by the lower clasfies to distinguish a Spaniard from a Mexican. salute , cabal- )s ; una ■In the bestow )st holy ay you. Dcts are and the irink is proper, ;he city, ip them- cd with miselves y Capu- 1 cxcep- . of vice, )ne looks a St eyes will not supplied, astidious )s where ri bestowetl low invari- ird from a c /I Tt the r( at al •■ panel the h pay 1 tinkle knees cerem t occasi one ol hat ai spied broug the h( their ] ■■'-•• : ■ '.. an am the cr ing I severe "A: God?' lie ma "V demor Ta( S counti durinf aqued spring the ai - hy th ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 167 The stranger in Mexico is perpetually annoyed by the religioup processions which perambulate the streets at all hours. A coach, with an eye painted on the panels, and drawn by six mules, conveys the Host to the houses of dying Catholics who are rich enough to pay for the privilege; before this equipage a bell tinkles, which warns the orthodox to fall on their knees; and wo to the unfortunate who neglects this ceremony, either from accident or design. On one occasion, being suddenly surprised by the approach of one of these processions, I had but just time to doff my hat and run behind a corner of a building, when I was spied by a fat priest, who, shouldering an image, brought up the rear of the procession. As he was at the head of a vast crowd who were just rising from their knees, he thought it a good opportunity of venting an anathema against a vile heretico. Turning first to the crowd, as much as to say, " Just see what a dress- ing I am going to give this fellow," he, with a most severe frown, addressed me : . "Man," said he, "do you refuse to kneel to your God?" "No, mi padre," I answered, "pero al imagen tie mad^ra" — but to an image of wood. "Vaya," muttered the padre; "lo te pagara el demonio" — the devil will pay thee — and marched away. Tacubaya is the Richmond of Mexico : villas and country residences abound, where the aristocracy resort during the hot months. The road passes the great aqueduct which supplies the city with water from a spring in Chapultepec. It is not strongly built, and the arches exhibit many cracks and fissures occasioned by the earthquakes. At this season the valley was c 168 rUUILOl S ADVKN'fLREii, partly inuudatcd, and tho road almost impassable to carriages. By this road Cortez retreated from tho city on tho memorable "noche tristc," the sorrowful night. Tho fatal causeway, the passage of which was so destructive to the Spaniards, was probably on nearly the same site as the present road, but tho latter since that period has entirely changed its character. On returning from Tacubaya, I visited the hill of Chapultepec, celebrated as being the site of Montezuma's palace, on which, toward tho close of tho seventeenth century, tho viceroy Galvcz erected a huge castle, the remains of which are now occupied by the military school.* Far more interesting than the apocryphal tradition of the Indians' palace, the viceroy's castle, or the exist- ing eyesore, is the magnificent grove of cypress, which outlives all the puny structures of man, and still in tho prime of strength and beauty, looks with contempt on the ruined structures of generation after generation which have passed away. One of these noble trees is upward of seventeen yards in girth, and the most pic- turesque, and at tho same time most nobly proportioned tree it is possible to conceive. It rises into the sky a perfect pyramid of foliage, and from its sweeping branches hang pendulous, graceful festoons of a mossy parasite. There are many others of equal height and beauty ; but this one, which I believe, is called Monte- * Chapultepec hag been immortalized since the visit of Mr. Rux- ton, by being the scene of one of the most memorable of all the battles fought during the recent yrar between Mexico and the Unitei) States. It was in the storming of this strong castlo that the most splendid displays of American valour took place. o o o o GQ >■ o CO ' lilfil .lif '! i!!;^" >Mff ill IllllllillJiili'llliliiii. , J^^ism ^^ ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 171 zuma's cypress, stands more isolated, and is therefore conspicuously grand. From the summit of the hill, to which a path winds through a labyrinth of shrubs, a fine view of the valley and city of Mexico is obtained, and of the surrounding mountains and volcanic peaks. The streets of Mexico at night present a very ani- mated appearance. In the leading thoroughfares the tortilleras display their tempting viands, illuminated by the blaze from a brazero, which serves to keep the tortil las and chile Colorado in a proper state of heat. To these stalls resort the arrieros and loafers of every descrip- tion, tempted by the shrill invitations of the presiding fair ones to taste their wares. Urchins, with blazing links, run before the lumbering coaches proceeding to the theatres. Cargadores — porters — stand at the oor ners of the flooded streets, to bear across the thin- booted passengers on their backs. The cries of the pordioscros, as the beggars are called from their con- stant use of " por Dies," redouble as the night advances. The mounted ones urge their two-legged steeds to cut oflF the crowd thronging toward the theatres, ming ling their supplications for alms with objurations on their lazy hacks. " Urga limosnita, taballerito, por (to the cargador) Malraya ! piernas de piedra, anda — and-a-a — .', A small trifle, my little lord, for the sake of — (aside to tlie unfortunate porter, in a stage whisper) Thunder an I fury, thou stony-legged one ! get on fur the love of mercy : he is going to give me a claco. Ar-M — ar-r-h6. Red-petticoated pohlanas* reboso-wrapped, display * The Pohlana is the Mnnola of Mexico. 172 PEUILOUS ADVI^NTURl.S. their little feet and Avcll-turnctl ankles as they cross the gutters ; and, cigar in mouth, they wend their way to the fandangoes of the Barrio do Santa Anna. From every pulque-shop is heard the twanging of guitars and the quivering notes of the cantadores, who excite the guests to renewed potations by their songs in praise of the grateful liquor. The popular chorus to one of these is: A " Sabe que es pulque ? ' ~. -i ;. • Licor divino-o ! Lo beben los angeles En el 8creno-o." ■ "Know ye what pulque iflt -• Liquor divine ! .. Angels in heaven ' Prefex- it to wine." Those philosophical strangers who wish to see " life in Mexico" must be careful what they are about, and keep their eyes skinned, as they say in Missouri. Here there are no detective police from which to select a guide for the back slums — no Sergeant Shackel to mit'.ate one into the mysteries of St. Giles' and the Seven Dials. (;ne must depend upon his own nerve and bowie-knife, his presence of mind and Colt's re- volver ; but, armed even with all these precautions, it IS a dangerous experiment, and much better to be left alone. Provided, however, that one speaks the Ian guage tolerably well, is judicious in the di ribudon of his dollars, and steers clear of committing any act of gallantry by which he may provoke the jealousy and cuchillo of the susceptible Mejicano, the expedition may bi m ai n fr ^ th hi tr 8U ADVENTUllKri IN MEXICO. 173 C MEXICAN ROBOBnSL be undertaken without much danger, and a satisfactory moral drawn therefrom. One niglit, equipped from head to foot "al paisano," and accompanied by one Jos6 Maria Canales, a worthy rascal, wlio, in every capacity, from a colonel of dra- goons to a horse-boy, had perambulated the republic from Yucatan to the valley of Taos, and had inhabited apartments in the palace of the viceroys as well as in the Acordada, and nearly every intermediate grade of habitation, T sallied ou*^ for the very purpose of perpe- trating such an expedition as I have attempted to dis- suade •thers frem undertaking. 15* 174 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. Our first visit was to the classic neighbourhood of the Acordada, a prison which contains as unique a collection of malefactors as the most civilized cities of Europe could produce. On the same principle as that professed by the philosopher, who, during a naval battle, put his head into a hole through which a cannon-shot had just passed, as the most secure place in the ship, so do the rogues and rascals, the pick-pockets, mur- derers, burglars, highwaymen, coiners, et hoc genus omne^ choose to reside under the very nose of the gallows. My coriipanion, who was perfectly at home in this locality, recommended that we should visit a cele- brated pulquoria, where he would introduce me to a caballero — a gentleman — who knew every thing that was going on, and would inform us what amusements were on foot on that particular night. Arrived at the pulque shop, we found it a small, filthy den, crowded with men and women of the lowest class, swilling the popular liquor, and talking unintelligible slang. My cicerone led me through the crowd, directly up 'o a man Avho, with his head through a species of sack with- out sleeves, and sans cliemtse, was serving out the pul- que to his numerous customers. I was introduced as " un forastero, un caballero Yngles" — a stranger — an English gentleman, his particular friend. Mine host ];olitely offered his hand, assured me that his house and all in it was mine from that hour, poured us out two large, green tumblers of pulque, and requested us to be seated. It was soon known that a foreigner was in the room. In spite of my dress and common sarape, I Avas soon eingled out. Cries of " Estrangcro, Tejano, Yanque, ABVENTUUES IN MEXICO. 175 burro," saluted mo; I was a Texan, a Yankee, and consequently burro — a jackass. The crowd surrounded me, women pushed through the throng, a ver el hurro — to look at the jackass ; and the threats of summary chastisement and ejection were muttered. Seeing that affairs began to look cloudy, I rose, and, placing my hand on my heart, assured the caballeros y las seno- ritas that they laboured under a slight error : that, al- though my face was white, I was no Texan, neither was I a Yankee or a jackass, but " Yngles, muy amigo si la republica" — an Englishman, having the welfare of the republic much at heurt; and that my affection for them, and hatred of their enemies, was something too excessive to express ; that to prove this, my only hope was that they would do me the kindness to discuss at their leisure half an arroba of pulque, which I begged then and there to pay for, and present to them in token of my sincere friendship. The tables were instantly turned : I was saluted with cries of " Viva el Yngles ! Que meueren los Yanquds ! Vivan nosotros y pulque !" — Hurrah for the English- man ! Death to the Yankees ! Long live ourselves and pulque ! The dirty wretches thronged round to shake my hand, and semi-drunken poblanas lavished their embraces on " el guero." I must here explain that, in Mexico, people with fair hair and complexions are called guero, guera ; and, from the caprice of hurar n nature, the guero is always a favourite of the fair sex : the same as, in our country, the olive-coloured foreign- ers with black hair and beards are thought " such loves" by our fair country-AVomen. The guero, however, n >s^ 176 PEltlLOrs ADVKNTriU'lS. shares this favouritism with tho genuine unadulterated negro, who is also greatly admired by the Mejicanas. After leaving the pulqueria, we visited, without suspicion, tho dens where those people congregate for the night — filthy cellars, where men, women, and chil- dren were sleeping, rolled in sarapes, or in groups, playing at cards, furiously smoking, quarrelling, and fifjhtino;. In one we were attracted to the corner of a room, whence issued the low sobs of a woman, and, drawing near the spot as well as the almost total dark- ness would admit, I saw a man, pale and ghastly, stretched on a sarape, with the blood streaming from a wound in the right breast, which a half-naked woman was trying in vain to quench. lie had just been stabbed by a lepero with whom he had been playing at cards and quarrelled, and who was coolly sitting within a yard of the wounded man. continuing his game with another, the knife lying before him covered with blood. The wound was evidently mortal ; but no one present paid the slightest attention to the dying man, excepting the woman, who, true to her nature, was endeavouring to relieve. After seeing every thing horrible in this region of crime, we took an opposite direction, and, crossing the city, entered the suburb called the Barrio dc Santa Anna. . . , . . This quarter is inhabited by a more respectable class of villains. The ladrones a capello — knights of the road — make this their rendezvous, and bring here the mules and horses they have stolen. It is also much frequented by the arrieros, a class of men who may be trusted with untold gold in the way of trade, but who are, when n«t "en atajo" (unemployed), as unserupu- ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 177 lous as their neighbours. They arc a merry set and the best of companions on the road; make a great deal of money, but, from their devotion to pulque and the fair sex, are always poor. " Gastar dinero como arriero" — to spend money like an arriero — is a common saying. In a meson much frequented by these men wo found a fandango of the first order in progress. An atago having arrived from Durango, the arrieros belonging to it were celebrating their safe arrival by entertaining their friends with a hayh ; and into this my friend, who was '^' one of them," introduced me as an amigo par- ticular — a particular friend. The entertainment was al-fresco, no room in the meson being large enough to hold the company ; consequently the dancing took place in the corral, and under tlie portalcs, where sat the musicians, three guitars and a tambourine, and where also was good store of pulque and mezcal. The women, in their dress and appearance, reminded me of the manolas of Madrid. Some wore very pic- turesque dresses, and all had massive ornaments of gold and silver. The majority, however, had on the usual problana enagua, a red or yellow kind of petti- coat, fringed or embroidered, over the simple chemi- sette, which, loose and unconfined, except at their waisi ■;, displayed most prodigally their charms. Stock- ings are never worn b}'^ this class, but they are invari ably very particular in their ckausure, a well-fitting shoe, showing off" their small, well-formed feet and ankles. The men were all dressed in elaborate Mexi can finery, and in the costumes of the different provin ces of which they were natives. C 178 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. The dances resembled, in a slight degree, the fan- dango arahe of Spain, but were more clumsy, and the pantomimic action less energetic and striking. Some of the dances were descriptive of the different trades and professions. El Zapatero, the shoemaker ; el Sastroncito, the little tailor ; el Uspadcro, the swords- man, &c., were among those in the greatest demand ; the guitar-players keeping time and accompanying with their voices in descriptive songs. The fandango had progressed very peacefully, and good-humour had prevailed until the last hour, when, just as the dancers were winding up the evening, by renewed exertions in the concluding dance, the musi- cians, inspired by pulque, were twanging with vigour their relaxed catgut, and a general chorus was being roared out by the romping votaries of Terpsichore, above the din and clamour a piercing shriek was heard from a corner of the corral, whore was congregated a knot of men and women, who chose to devote them- selves to the rosy god for the remainder of the evening, rather than to the exertions of the dance. The ball was abruptly brought to a conclusion, every one hast- ening to the quarter whence the shriek j)roceeded. Two men, with drawn knives in their hands, were struggling in the arms of several women, who strove to prevent their encounter — one of the women having received an ugly wound in the attempt, which had caused the shriek of pain which had alarmed the dancers. " Que es cso ?" — What is this ? — asked a tall, pow- erful Durangiieno. elbowing his Avay through tho crowd. " Que quierren esos gaiioa?" — What do these ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 179 game-cocks want? "A pelear?" — To fight, eh? " Vamos, a ver los toros !" — Come, let us see the fun ! — he shouted. In an instant a ring was formed ; men and women standing at a respectful distance, out of reach of the knives. Two men held the combatants, who, with sarapes rolled round their arms, passion darting out of their fiery eyes, looked like two bull-dogs ready for the fray. At a signal they were loosed at each other, and, with a shout, rushed on with uplifted knives. It was short work with them, for at the first blow the tendons of the right arm of one of them were severed, and his we«,^/On fell to the ground ; and as his antagonist was about to plunge his knife into the body of his disarmed foe, the by-standers rushed in and prevented it, at the same moment that the patrulla (the patrol) entered the corral with bayonets drawn, and sauve-qui-peut was the word ; a visit to the Acordada being the certain penalty of being concerned in a brawl where knives have been uh(h1, if taken by the guard. For myself, with a couple of soldiers at my heels, I flew out of the gate, and never stopped until I found myself safe under the sheets, just as daybreak was tinging the top of the cathedral. . . " liio:vTtia:T. ADVENTURES IN CALTFOllNIA. EFOllE the war between the United States and Mexico, "which began in the spring of 184G, Alta California was known only as an extensive, thinly-inhabited, grazing terri- tory, which Mexico had con- siderable trouble in keeping under her sway, in consequence of the restless and independent spirit of the people. Monterey Avas the chief port, and hides and tallow were • the principal articles of commerce. Upon IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■ so '""*■ 2.5 i2 *- u UUu 1.8 1.25 1.4 16 ■« 6" ► V] ^> / ^4 ^'4^1.'^ ';' Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 til UI ' G ■ ta th - u ■ '^ . va af . ' , " ; '.■ ' . ^- 8t ill Tl ■ ' •-:'-'':''^ »,•''■-'- V of ''} ■' - : '-^ >■';''.■'-. ■.'=■. 10 '- - /" "■ f .^' '■*' ^ ' ol \ - - -'■ ', \,:''^?- f of Uf i ' ' ' i' « ■■ ' • Fi 1 i ! i 1 I "v be cr Di of ,'. cic -;. .' ^ ' >'!■■ bu '■'V---<^j- Er • ■ ' ^i^-H'r-"}:^ ' Icf ■ • i 1 Or Re for arr • of m ADVENTURES IN CALIFOENIA. 183 tlic breaking out of the war, the United States forces under the command of Commodore Stockton and General Kearney easily subdued this territory, first taking Monterey and the other chief towns ; and at the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, it was ceded to the United States. Neither party knew the immense value of the country thus bartered away. But soon after the peace it was accidentally discovered that the streams in the valley of the Sacramento and the rocks and gulfs of the Sierra Nevada teemed with gold. This discovery acted like magic in changing the aspect of things in the territory. California became the cynosure of all eyes, and from every land the news had reached, came crowds upon the search for fortune. The ohl towns, at first deserted, grew, by the great numbers of arrivals, to an astonishing size, and new ones sprang up as if at the touch of the enchanter's wand. San Francisco, which in 1847 contained about fifty houses, became a great city, and its splendid harbour was crowded with vessels from all parts of the world. Digging and washing for gold was the chief business of the eager crowds of adventurers. The scenes and in- cidents of sucli a stirring, changing time as this cannot but be both amusing and instructive, and happily many Englisli and American travellers and adventurers have left upon record their observations, trials and operations. One of the most graphic of these narrators is Mr. Redmond Ryan, whose " Personal adventures in Cali- fornia,'.' contains much interesting information and amusing incident and is very pleasantly written. Mr. Ryan served as a private in the New York regiment of volunteers, which after performing som© brilliant ex- c 184 PERILOUS AUVENTLIIKS. ploits in Lower California, sailed for Monterey. We will let him tell a part of his own story. We reached Monterey towards the end of August 1848, and landed full of hope, feeling satisfied we should be immediately disbanded, paid, and once more our own masters ; free to seek fortune at the " diggings, " or elsewhere if we fancied it. But a sore disappoint- ment awaited us. Governor Mason had decamped to the mines; the streets were unpeopled; the houses empty, and the town deserted : with the exception of a stray "regular" now and then, not a living soul was to be met with. Every body was off to the real Tom Tid- dlers ground, to pick up the gold and silver. From one of these straggling regulars we heard that tlie soldiers had long ago abandoned the fort on the hill, all attempts to prevent them from deserting their post proving utterly futile against the influence of the thirst for gold, which every fresh account from the mines aggravated. Pursuit was useless ; it had been tried and failed, for the pursuers in turn became the pursued, until Governor Mason himself, learning from experience that gold possessed stronger allurements to the soldiers than glory, followed the general example, taking with him a small government cart and a negro servant. He was reported to be away on government business ; but no doubt was entertained of the real purpose of his journey to the mines, namely, to speculate in gold, which at this time could be bought there for a fourth of its real value in coined money. Colonel B now assumed the command of the post in the absence of the Governor ; and, upon appli- cation being made to him for quarters, we were in- ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA. 185 formed there were none provided, and we must shift in tents as well as we could. The misery of such accom- modations soon became intolerable, for, having como from a very warm latitude but recently, the cold and the torrents of rain together threatened to convert every tent into an hospital. In this strait, we resolved to pi'ocure better lodgings at any risk, and proceeded at once to break open and instal ourselves in such houses as we judged most suited to our wants. I took possession of the school-house — the door of which I ought, in self-justification, to add, stood invitingly open — and found the private apartments of the schoolnias- tor oxcoodinp;ly comfortable. The rest of the house was rapidly appropriated by other parties, and became crowded to excess. Some of the volunteers, neverthe- less, preferred remaining in their tents, for reasons which we were not long in discovering. They Avere on the look-out for horses, which they were of opinion could be better looked after a little way out of the town, and were not so likely to be stolen from them. We all felt anxious to be moving towards the valley of gold as soon as possible, but not a word had we yet heard respecting Avhat was just then of considerable im- portance to us, namely, the pay which the government owed us for several months' service, and an honourable and formal discharge — lacking which latter documcjit, we should want our title to the one hundred and sixty acres of land that had been promised to the volunteers as an additional incentive — over and above their pay — to remain faithful to their country's flag. Indeed, 80 many were the difficulties experienced by us at last in procuring this important instrument, and so desirous 16* C 186 PKllILOUS ABVExMUllES. were wc to depart, that witli two exceptions, the whole body of us were obli<^ed tu take the Colonel's verbal dismissal ; a circumstance that ultimately involved the majority in an extreme difTiculty, wlien they sought to prove their right to the land in question. Fortunately for us, there arrived here, one Colonel Stevenson, with a party of men from Pueblo de Lo3 Arigclos, tlie whole of them being on their way to the mines. To his influence we owed a supply of flint-lock muskets, in the proportion of one to every two men, twenty cartridges, and one month's rations; all of which we received as so much instalment on what was really due to us, namely, mileage and scrip, to say nothing of our legal title to our one hundred and sixty acres of land. We were no sooner our own masters again, than there commenced on all sides a series of the most active preparations for a journey to the mines. The plan adopted was to form bands of three, five, or ten, under the leadership of one of the number, whose name the party took, and continued to be distinguished by. A set of written rules was drawn up for the regulation of the general interests, these rules varying in certain points, according to the peculiar views of particular associations. Whilst our men were preparing for their departure, riaking purchases, packing provisions, and equipping themselves and their horses, the discovery of the body of one of our number cast a deep gloom over our spirits. He was found at the bottom of a well, with a deep cut over his head, evidently inflicted by a sharp instrument. An accordion, on which he was in the habit of playing, th( 3ha DVENTL'llES IN ('ALlFUnKIA. 187 Aas also found in the avcII, on tlio top of his botly, aa tf it had been cast in after it. AVc never ascertained the real cause of this murder, but strongly suspected it to have been either the result of an old grudge, or of a jealous paroxysm on the part of some of the Span- iards, Avith whom he had always been at variance, and involved in serious broils. I was much attached to him, and sincerely lamented his sad end. So much time having now been lost in preparation, I proposed that the members of my party should meet in my apartment, on a certain evening, for the purpose of p:»ying over their respective shares to the common slock, in order to complete the purchase of our yoke and team. But, although every one agreed to moot, three of the party went that evening to Abrigos, and gambled away at monte every cent they possessed. We were thus left without sufficient funds to procure the means of transport; until Halliday, Parker, and myself, putting our scanty treasuries together, pur- chased two more horses ; one with a very sore back, the other spirited enough, but small, and unfitted for heavy burdens. We were much embarrassed and very uneasy con- cerning our companions, whom we did not like to leave behind at jSIonterey, well knowing the privations and misery they would have to endure ; therefore, and not- withstanding their improvidence, we determined to per- mit them to accompany us. One of them had already, I should state, left us, and set off after another party, then en route, with whom he succeeded in coming up, and reaching the mines. Having manufactured pack-saddles, and bestowed 188 PElULOUrf ADVKNTl'KEo. A OAUFORinAN mSIAIT. away our month's provisions, our cooking utensils, and other necessaries, and I having consented to allow my horse to be used for the pack of our two companions, the larger of the two other horses being reserved for a similar purpose, and the second as a resource, in case of a break down, we met, five in number, namely, Devin, Ilalliday, Drew, Parker, and myself, all well armed, and in capital spirits, and set off upon our hazardous journey in the evening, determined to walk the whole way, rather than fatigue our horses, whose strength we knew would be severely tried. The party endured great hardships during the jour- ney towards the mines, and great ficcautions were necessary to guard against the robbers and Indians of this wild country. An unsuccessful attempt of two Indians to steal the horses of the party is thus narrated Dy Mr. Ryan : — Our march proved a long one, although we made ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA. 189 made little progress in advance, as our route was circuitous, and finally obstructed by an immense lagoon, over- grown with toolies, or bulrushes, and along the borders of which we were compelled to proceed up to our knees in mud and water, and sometimes even higher. We same to the end of the marsh at last, but found our- selves so fatigued that further advance was impossible ; we therefore selected a fitting spot, and made the usual preparations for passing the night there. Although excessively wearied, I was unable to com- pose myself to sleep, and lay half-sleeping, half-waking, Avatching the glimmer of the fire. Suddenly — about half-past one — I heard a low sound among the bushes, at a little distance off; and, listening more attentively, at last plainly distinguished footsteps. We had adopted the precaution of sleeping a short distance from the fire ; so that our movements were not easily discernible. I crept stealthily towards Halliday, having first gnisped my pistols, which I always kept ready for use under my head, and with some difliculty succeeded in arousing him, desiring him to keep perfectly quiet, but ojj^ the alert. We were in such a position, at this time, as to command a view of our horses and property, which had been left under the care of a sentinel. Drew, who had fallen fast asleep, his head resting on one of the animals which had stretched itself on the ground by his side. We watched' a few minutes, and then be- held two Indians stalk cautiously out from amongst the bushes, and advance towards our fire, evidently to ascertain if any of us were stirring. The inspection proving satisfactory, as it seemed, one of them ap- proached the sleeping sentinel, and cast a lasso around c 190 riilill/;! ^; .M)Vi;XTURES. my horse's neck, Avliilst tlic other liiid his hands on one of tlio saddles and a pack. I took steady aim at the horse-stealer, and, discharging my pistol as he was on the point of leading the animal away, perceived that tlio ball took effect in the man's right shoulder, for he dropped the end of the lasso, and, carrying his hand to the wound, leaped up, and disappeared in the bush, his companion instantly following his example. The report of the weapon brought our comrades about us in a minute, in a state of great alarm, and all equally eager to ascertain the extent of the danger. The story was soon told, and our sentinel got severely rebuked, for there was little donbt but the Indians, tempted by the carelessness of our sentinel, intended to take advantage of it by stealing as much as they could carry off. Having adopted additional precautions in the event of a second surprise, we lay down again. But our troubles were not over, for several times we were obliged to get up and run after our horses, which, Dcing tied up to the low bushes by leathern ropes, were set free by the cayotes — a species of animal some- thing between a fox and a dog — that devour leathtr with avidity, and arc ever on the watch to procure it. Wc lost several of these ropes, which are frequently converted into temporary bridles by passing them from the neck around the nose in an ingenious manner, com- pletely obviating the use of head-stalls or bit. They are often of the handsomest description, and chiefly made of leather, which the cayotes nibble away in a very short time^ ten minutes at most sufficing for them to entirely demolish the most solid of them. It may readily be imagined, therefore, that, between watching c :i: ADVKNTURES JN CALli'OilXIA. 193 for cayotes and thieving Indians, oui roposo that night was not of the soundest kind, and that, when morning camo, wo were none of us much refreshed. Mr. Ryan soon afterwards parted coaipany with all of his friends but Ilalliday, with whom he jour- neyed towards the Stanislaus mine. When near the river Stanislaus the two adventurers joined a larger party headed by a Spaniard named Don Emanuel. Wo Avill let Mr. Ilyan tell how things went at the " diggings" of Stanislaus. The mine was a deep ravine, embosomed amidst lofty hills, surmounted by and covered with pine, and naving, in the bottom itself, abundance of rock, mud, and sand. Halliday and I encamped at the very lowest part of the ravine, at a little distance from Don Emanuel's party ; a steep rock which towered above our heads affording us shelter, and a huge, fiat stone beneath our feet promising a fair substitute for a dry bed. Here then wo stretched our macheers and blankets, and arranged our saddles and bags, so as to make our selves us comfortable and warm as possible, although, in spite of our precautions and contrivances, and of a tolerably good fire, our encampment was bitterly cold, and we lay exposed to a heavy dew. We had given up our horses into the charge of the Indians, and I saw to their being safely placed in the cavallard, whilst Halliday went to chop wood ; a task I was too weak to perform. I cannot say we slept ; we might more cor- rectly be said to have had a long and most uncomfortable doze, and when morning broke, we were shivering with cold, and shook the dew in a shower from our clothes. I consulted with mv companion, and urged upon him IT C 194 PEIlILOUa ADVENTURES. the prudence of our setting to work to construct our- selves a sort of log cabin ; otherwise I felt certain, from the experience of the past night, our sojourn at the mines would be likely to prove fatal to one or both of us. He was, however, far too eager to try his fortune at digging to listen to my proposal, at which he even smiled, probably at the bare idea of weather, privation, or toil, being able to affect his powerful frame. I saw him presently depart up the ravine, shouldering a pick, and glancing now and then at his knife, whilst I pro- ceeded in search of materials for constructing a tem- porary place of shelter. As my strength was unequal to the task of felling timber, I endeavoured to procure four poles, intending to sink them into the ground, and to stretch on the top of them a bed-tick I had reserved for the purpose. The contrivance was a sorry one at the best, but shelter was indispensable ; and great was my disappointment — though I procured the timber after a painful search — to find that the rocks presented an insuperable ob- stacle to my employing it as I intended. My efforts to sink the poles proved utterly futile, and I was at last compelled to renounce the attempt in despair. I then packed up our goods into as close a compass as possible ; and, having requested one of the Spaniards in Don Emanuel's party to keep watch over them, departed to explore the ravine. Within a few paces of our encampment there was a large area of ground, probably half a mile square, the surface of which consisted of dark soil and slate, and was indented with innumerable holes of every possible dimension, from six inehes to as many feet or more, ct our- n, from at the both of fortune he even ivation, I saw a pick, ft I pro- a tem- ■ felling itending on the >urpose. t shelter )intment il search able ob- y efforts s at last I then jossible ; in Don arted to re was a lare, the ate, and possible )r more, ADVKNTURES IN CALll-ORNIA. 195 I wide and deep. In all of these lay abundance of Avater, of which large quantities are to be found a little beneath the surface, the ravine being supplied with it in great abundance by the rains that pour down from the hills during the wet season. To the extreme right of our camp, the ground assumed a more rocky cliaracter ; and, from the vast deposit of stagnant water, did not seem to offer many attractions to the miner. Yet there was scarcely a spot in any of these places where the crow-bar, the pick, or the jack-knife, had not been busy : evidence that the whole locality must have been extremely rich in the precious metal, or it would not have been so thoroughly worked. In crossing the ravine, I was obliged to leap from one mound of earth to another, to avoid plunging ancle- deep in mud and water. It was AvhoUy deserted in this part, though formerly so much frequented ; and, with the exception of a fuw traders, who, having taken up their station here when times were good, had not yet made airangeuionts for removing to a more produc- tive place, not a soul was to be seen. I walked on until I reached the trading post of Mr. Anderson, formerly our interpreter in the Lower Coun try, whom I felt delighted to meet with agnin. His shed Avas situated in one of the dam^jcst parts of the mine, and consisted of a few upright poles, traversed by croos-pieces, and covered in with raw hides anil leaves, but yet much exposed at the sides to the wind and the weather. ITo had a few barrels of flour and biscuit, which he retailed at two dollars a pound ; for he made no difference between the price of the raw and the prepared material. The flour would go fur- 196 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. tlier, it »vas true ; but then the biscuit required no cook- ing on the part of the miner, -whose time was literally money, and "whose interest therefore it was to econo- mize it in every possible manner. He also sold unpre- pared coffee and sugar at six Yankee shillings a pound ; dried beef at one dollar and a half; and pork, which Avas regarded as a great delicacy here, at two dollars for the same weight. The various articles of which his stock-in-trade consisted he had brought all the way from Monterey at considerable labour and expense; but, by the exercise of extraordinary tact, perseverance, and industry, he had succeeded in establishing a flour- ishing business. I discovered, hoAvever, that he possessed another re- source — by which his gains were marvellously increased — in the services of seven or eight Indians, whom he kept constantly at work, in the rear of his shed, dig- ging gold, and whose labour he remunerated with pro- visions, and occasional presents of articles of trifling value to him, but highly csteeined by the Indians. They were watched by an American overseer, who was cmploj'ed by him, to assist him in \e general business, particularly in slaugiiteving ; for, as beef was scarce, he used to send his man in quest of cows and oxen ; wiiitli lie IuIkmIj cut up, salted and dried, in his shed, iiud watching the most favourable moment for the t>{)eration — namely, when meat could not be procured at the "diggings" — never failed to realize his own \):\VC: \0V it. i'rocecding higher up the ravine, I observed a large tent erected on the slope of a hill, within a few yards of the bottom, Avhere the gold is usually feund. It was ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA. 197 cook- iterally econo- unpre- pound ; , which dollars liich his he way xpense ; .erance, a flour- )ther rc- icreased v'hom he led, dig- ith pro- trifling Indians, who was msiness, scarce> d oxen; lis shed, for the :)rocured his own a large [w yarda It was , surrounded by a ti-cnch, the clay from which, as it was dug up, had apparently been throAvn out against the canvass, forming a kind of embankment, rendering it at once water and weather-proof. I ventured into it, encountering on my way an immense piece of raw beef, suspended from the ridge-pole. Upon some stones in front, enclosing a small fire, stood a fryingpan, filled with rich-looking beef collops, that set my mouth Avater- mg, and severely tested my honesty ; for, although acorns are all very well in their way, and serve to stay the cravings of the stomach for a while, I did not find my appetite any the less sharp, notwithstanding tho quantity I had eaten. But I resisted the temptation, and penetrated further into the tent. At one side of it lay a crow-bar and an old saddle that had seen rough service ; yet not a soul appeared, and my eyes were again ogling the collops, whilst an inward voice whispered how imprudent it was to leave them frizzling there, when, all at once, a little man, in a " hickory shirt," with his face all bedaubed with pot-black and grease, darted out from some dark corner, flourishing in one hand a long bowie-knife, and in the other three by no means delicate slices of fat pork, which he at once dropped into the fryingpan, stooping down on one knee, and becoming immediately absorbed in watching the interesting culinary process then going on in it. I enjoyed now a fair opportunity of examining his features, and felt much gratified to recognize in him one of my former companions, the smartest man of his corps, and whom I had last seen at Monterey. " Good morning, Firmore," said I ; " I wish you joy of your occupation." 17* 198 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. He started up from his Icnecs, and looked at me awhile in perfect amazement; then rushing upon me with such earnestness as nearly to throw me down, he shook me by the hand until I thought he would work my arm out of its socket. " What, you !" he exclaimed. "Well, well. Who ever would have thought to see you here ! How did you come, and where did you start from ? You are lookini:' all the worse for wear." " I can't say you look quite as dapper, Firmore," replied I, " as you did the day we went ashore at Val- paraiso. But I suppose you have no cause to com- plain, for you appear to weather it well." "Oh, I don't know that !" he responded: "I have had but indift'ercnt luck. For several days after I got here, I did not make any thing ; but since then I have, by the hardest work, averaged about seven dollars a day. Wlien you consider the price of provisions, the hardness of "the labour, and the wear and tear of body, mind, and clothes" — here he exhibited his rags — "you will admit that this is but poor remuneration. How- ever, I live in hopes of getting a streak of luck yet. I am now cooking for our party. There are ten of us, and amongst the rest are Van Anken and Hughes. Van has been immensely fortunate. Every place he touches turns to gold under his fingers. Sometimes, after exhausting one place, he tries another which has been abandoned, and I have known him pick out of it seven and eight ounces a day, for days together. One thing is, he never tires. He is, as you know, a stout though a small-made man, with a constitution as tough fts old iron. Ho laughs at fever and ague, and goes ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA. 199 to sleep by the side of them as though they were first- rate bedfellows. It's astonishing the number of men who have lost a fortune through these two complaints ; when they're touched, good-bye. If their " diggin" were ever so rich, they're obliged to desert it ; and, once deserted, why not even their own brother would respect it. Hughes, now, has been every bit as unlucky. He has had the poorest chance of all, and I don't think he has dug more than five ounces ever since he came here." " I should have thought him likelier to succeed than any other," I observed; "for he is a large and a strong-looking man." " Ah ! it's more luck than any thing else," replied he. " But, luck or no luck, no man can pick up gold, even here, without the very hardest labour, and that's a fact. Some think that it's only to come here, squat down any where, and pick away. But tliey soon find out their mistake. I never knew what hard work was until I came here. Talk of digging on the canal ; why, that's easy, comfortable employment, compared to dig- ging here for gold. Any where else, you may hope to go to some sort of a home at night, and go to some- thing like a tolerable bed, where you may lie down snug and warm, and sleep out your weariness. But here, why every hour you sleep, you are losing ; and that notion keeps you from snoozing even when it's too dark to work. However, I've made up my mind to stick to it till I've made enough to go back to the ^ States' independent ; or, at any rate, a little more so than when I came out. Ah I here are our boys." I 'ooked out and beheld the party coming down the 200 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. »avine, with crow-bars over their shoulders and wash Dowls under their arms. Van appeared glad to meet with me again ; and, I must say, that, notwithstanding the inordinate selfishness brought into action by the peculiar circumstances in which the miners were placed, the esprit-de-corps of the volunteera prevented and alleviated much suffering amongst individuals. They cordially invited me to breakfast, but, fearing so large a party was not over-abundantly supplied with provi- sions, I declined their offer "vvith many thanks ; and, bidding them good morning, proceeded a little further. I came up next with a group of three Sonoreans, or inhabitants of Sonera, busily engaged on a small sandy ' flat — the only one I had observed — at the bottom of the ravine. There was no water near, although I noticed several holes which had evidently been sunk in quest of it. These men were actively pursuing a pro- cess that is termed "dry-washing." One was shovel- ling up the sand into a large cloth, stretched out upon the ground, and which, when it was tolerably well covered, he took up by the corners, and shook until the pebbles and larger particles of stone and dirt came to 4he surface. These he brushed away carefully with Lis hand, repeating the process of shaking and clearing exntil the residue was sufficiently fine for the next opera- tion. This was performed by the other men, who, epositing the sand in large bowls hewn out of a solid block of wood, which they held in their hands, dexter- ously cast the contents up before them, about four feet into the air, catching the sand again very cleverly, and blowing at it as it descended. This process being repeated, the sand gradually disappeared ; and from ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA. 201 :ter- feet and eing 'rom two to three ounces of pure gold remained at the bot- tom of the bowl. Easy as the operation appeared to me to be, 1 learned, upon inquiry, that to perform it successfully required the nicest management, the greatest perseverance, and especially robust lungs The men I saw had lighted upon a productive sand ; but very often, indeed, those who adopt this mode of gold-washing toil long at barren soil before they dis- cover the uselossness of labouring thus arduously. I noticed, that although the largest proportion of the gold obtained in this manner presented the appearance of a fine powder, it was interspersed, hero and there, with large scales of the precious deposit, and with a few solid lumps. The metal was of a dingy hue, and, at a cursory view, might easily have been mistaken foi particles of yellow clay, or laniinre of stone of the same colour. The Sonoreans placed the product of their labour in buckskin bags, which were hung around their necks, and carefully concealed inside of their shirts. They work in this fashion at the mines in their own country ; but I doubt if any other than a native con- stitution could very long bear up against the peculiar labour of *■' dry-washing" in such a climate and under such difficult circumstances. I felt half tempted to try the process myself, for the surface of this sandy bed was literally sparkling with innumerable particles of the finest gold, triturated to a polish by the running of the Avaters — as I conjectured : but I soon discovered how fruitless my efforts would bo. Had I possessed any chemical agents at hand, however, I might soon have exhausted the bed of its precious contents, and should, doubtless, have realized an immense weight of the metal of tho very purest quality. 202 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. Continuing my route up the ravine, I met a man named Corrigan, galloping along with two fine horses, one of which he was leading. lie stopped as soon as he recognized me, and we were soon engaged in a very interesting conversation respecting the doings at the ' diggings." The substance of his information was, that he had m.ade a great deal of money at the mines by digging, but infinitely more by speculation. lie thought of buying a ranche, marrying, and settling down. He was then going to seek for pasture for his horses ; and, bidding me a hasty good by, galloped off, and soon disappeared. As I advanced, the ground became drier and more sandy, rock and slate of various kinds abounding ; some quite soft and friable, yielding readily to the pickaxe or the crow-bar; and, in other jdaccs, so hard as to resist the utmost stren2;th of the miners. Several of the diggers wore perseveringly exploring the locali- ties where the rotten sorts of slate were found in the largest quantities, and I saw them pick out a good deal of gold with their jack-knives. Their principal aim was to discover what they termed "a pocket," which is nothing more than a crevice between the blocks of slate, into which a deposit of gold has been washed by the heavy rains from the higher districts, and which. Boon accumulating, swell into rapid torrents, which rush down these ravines with extraordinary swiftness and force, SAVceping every thing before them. There did not appear to be many mining parties at the Stanislaus at this particular period, for the encamp- ments were generally from two to five miles apart, the space between them increasing the higher you advanced ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA. 203 towards the mountains, to the foot of which the ravine extended — altogether, a distance of many miles. The lower part of the mine, I concluded from this fact, to be by far the richer, simply from the circumstance I have mentioned : richer, comparatively, because hero the deposits of gold are more easily found and ex tracted ; not riclier, in reality, as the metal must exist in immense quantities in the upper regions, from which it is washed down by the rains and floods into the lower districts. The virgin deposit would, doubtless, be diffi- cult to come at ; but, if sought after at all, that it is to be sought in the mountains and high lands, I feel persuaded. I turned back, after prosecuting my excursion until the ravine became almost too rocky to allow me to proceed, and until I saw that the "diggings" dimin- ished materially in number. On clambering the hills at the side, I beheld abundance of pines, oak, cedar, and palm ; but no grass, nor vegetation of any other kind, save prickly shrubs, with here and there a patch of extremely dry moss. On my way back, I passed several tents and huts erected by the miners, all of the very poorest and most wretched description. I found Van Anken's party at dinner, in front of their tent. Van showed me a leathern bag, containing several pounds' weight of very pure gold, and wliioli was carelessly tossed about from one to the other for examination. It was the produce of his mornii)':;'s work, he having fortunately struck upon a large pocket. On inquiring whether, as there existed such strong •temptation, robberies were not very frequent, I was 204 PERILOUS ADVKNTUIIES. informed, tliat, although thefts had occurred, yet; generally speaking, the miners dwelt in no distrust of one another, and left thousands of dollars' worth in gold- dust in their tents whilst they were absent digging They all felt, intuitively, that honesty ivas literally the best policy, and a determination to punish robberjf seemed to have been come to by all as a measure essen tial to the security and welfare of the mining commu- nity, independent of any question of principle. Gambling and drinking were carried on, I found, to a most demoralizing extent. Erandy and champagne, whenever they were brought to the " diggings," realized enormous prices, varying from sixteen to twenty dollars a bottle ; and some of the men would, after accumula- ting some hundred dollars, squander the whole in pur- chasing these beverages. Believing the supply of gold to be inexhaustible, they persisted in this reckless course, and discovered only when it became too late to redeem tkoir error, that even here gold cannot always be pro- cured. They went on until the jj/acc'rs failed to yield, and were then reduced to great extremities. The miners were by no means averse to lending "dust" to those who required it, notwithstanding that the lenders often experienced some difficulty in getting back the advance. One of Van's party, for instance, lent another six ounces of gold, which not being re- turned at the stipulated period, nor for some time afterwards, he dunned his debtor at every meal, until the latter, who had quietly submitted to the importu- nity, begged hnn to "just wait ten minutes, and time it." lie shouldered his pickaxe, as he said this, and going out of the shed, returned within the time, bring- »^ > o p H I c 'i(^m{mm;.mM.m^i'& ROUGHING IT IN CANADA. '^,,<•'' iO IS Strick- lives of has re- ively ro- les t part ! accom- EJmigrant lents of dmirable i has just «11!; m < o O o Hi W H ^ I ;i',)UGiiiiNa IT IN CANADA. 215 ^/ / .1 grace to all tKc labour and privation of a settler in the backwoods. Mr. Moodie ^^'as a lialf-pay officer in the British army, and sought a settlement in Canada, with a view fa the interests of his children. At first they lived in a village ; but a large grant of lands in the backivoods tempted Mr. Moodie to become a pioneer. Hy was induced to sell out his half pay, was cheated out of the money which it brought, and of his other available means, and he was obliged to live in a log hut, and to depend upon his labour on his wild farm for the .support of himself and his family. An appointment of sheriff from the Canadian government finally afforded biui a li;uid:same support, and enabled him to leave his log cabin, and reside in comparative ease and comfort in one of the large towns. ' The folloAving account of one of the adventures of Mr. and Mrs. Moodie, will afford the reader a specimen of the perils attendant upon "lougiiing it in the bush." Still, with all these misfo tuno.s, Providence watched over us in a signal mamer. We were never left entirely without food. Like the widow's cruise of oil, our means, though small, Avere never suffered to cease entirely. We had been for some days without meat, when Moodie came running in for his gun. A great she-bear was in the wheat-field at the edge of the wood, very busily employed in helping to harvest the crop. There was but one bullet, and a charge or two of buck shot, in the house ; but Moodie started to the wood .•ith the single bullet in his gun, followed by a little terrier dog that belonged to John E . Old Jenny was busy at the wash-tub, but the moment she saw her master running up the clearing, and knew the cause, 216 PERILOUS ADVENTURKS. 'iiiii. she left her work, and snatching up the carving-knife, ran after him, that in case the bear should have the best of the fight, she would be there to help " the mas- ther." Finding her shoes incommode her, she flung them off, in order to run faster. A few minutes after, came the report of the gun, and I heard Moodie halloo to E , who was cutting stakes for a fence in the wood. I hardly thought it possible that he could have killed the bear, but I ran to the door to listen. The children were all excitement, which the sight of the black monster, borne down the clearing upon two poles, increased to the wildest demonstrations of joy. Moodie and John were carrying the prize, and old Jenny, brandishing her carving-knife, followed in the rear. The rest of Jhe evening was spent in skinning and cutting up and salting the ugly creature, whose flesh filled a barrel with excellent meat, in flavour resembling beef, while the short grain and juicy nature of the flesh gave to it the tenderness of mutton. This was quite a Godsend, and las^od us until we were able to kill two large, fat hogs, in the fall. A few nights after, Moodie and I encountered the mate of Mrs. Bruin, while returning from a visit to Emilia, in the very depth of the wood. We had been invited to meet our friend's father and mother, who had come up on a short visit to the woods ; and the evening passed away so pleasantly that it was near midnight before the little party of friends sepa- rated. The moon was down. The wood through which we had to return, was very dark ; the ground being low and swampy, and the trees thick and tall. There was, in particular, one very ugly spot, where a small creek RoUGiriNQ IT IN CANADA. 217 crossed the road. This creek could only be passed by foot-passengers scrambling over a fallen tree, which, in a dark night, w s not very easy to find. I begged a torch of Mr. M ; but no torch could be found. Emilia laughed at my fears; still, knowing what a coward I was in the bush of a night, she found about an inch of candle, which was all that remained from the evening's entertainment. This she put into an old lantern. "It will not last you long; but it will carry you over the creek." This was something gained, and off we set. It was so (l.-n-k in the bush, that our dim candle looked like a Kulitary red spark in the intense surrounding darkness, and scarcely served to show us the path. We went chatting along, talking over the news of the evening, Hector running on before us, when I saw a pair of eyes glare upon us from the edge of the s'',vamp, with the green, bright light emitted by the eyes of a cat. "Did you see those terrible eyes, Moodie?" and I clung, trembling, to his arm. "What eyes?" said he, feigning ignorance. "It's too dark to see any thing. The light is nearly gone, and, if you don't quicken your pace, and cross the tree before it goes out, you will, perhaps, get your feet wet by falling into the creek." " Good heavens ! I saw them again ; and do just look at the dog." Hector stopped suddenly, and, stretching himself along the ground, his nose resting between his fore- paws began to whine and tremble. Presently he ran back to us, and crept under our feet. The cracking of 10 218 I'KRILOUS ADVi:NTUUr:S. I i I II brancliGS, .and tlio heavy tread of aotne large animal sounded close beside us. Moodio turned the open lantern in the direction from whence the sounds came, Jind shouted ns loud as he could, at the same time endeavouring to urge forward the fear-stricken dog, whose cowardice was only equalled by my own. Just at that critical moment the wick of the candle flickered a moment in the socket, and expired. Wo were left in perfect darkness, alone Avith the bear — for such we supposed the animal to be. IMy heart boat audibly; a cold perspiration was streaming down my face, but I neither shrieked nor attempted to run. I don't know how Moodie got me over the creek. One of my feet slipped into the water, but, expecting as I did every moment, to bo devourec' by master Bruin, that was a thing of no consequence. My husband was laughing at my fears, and every now and then he turned towards our companion, who con- tinued following us at no great distance, and ga\'c him an encouraging shout. Glad enough was I when I saw the gleam of the light from our little cabin window shine out among the trees ; .and the moment I got within the clearing, I ran, without stopping, until I was safely within the house. John was sitting up for us, nursing Donald. He listened with great interest to our adventure with the bear, and thought that Bruin was very good to let us escape without one aflfectionatG hug. "Perhaps it would have been otherwise had he known, Moodie, that you had not only killed his good witl son a ll()U(llll.Nvas no less amused than myself, until he saw that a line ye'.rling heifer was bleeding, and found, upon examination, that the poor animal, having been in the claws of the bear, was dangerously, if not mortally hurt. "I hope," ho cried, "that the brute has not touched my foal !" I pointed to the black face of the filly peeping over the back of an elderly cow. "You sec, John, that Bruin preferred veal ; there's your 'horsey,' as Dunbar calls her, safe and laughing at you." Moodie and Jenny now returned from the pursuit of the bear. E fastened all the cattle into the back yard, close to the house. By daylight he and Moodie luid started in chase of Bruin, whom they tracked by his blood some way into the bush ; but here he entirely escaped their search. .±^ tlio lioir ' ,.'■ ■ , as cut. ' ' ^ i-om ' - ■ T ,' ' ,■.■-', self, t mal, -' . ., " ' isly, ■. -"'^^ir"-' ' -• - ;hed '■ . ; ' ,,.■- - filly n-e's ■ ' ^■' '/' '^*' ■■■•■■ ■• 1" hiiig t of ■ ■ 1- ,■-■■-■■'*'" ;i' ■ '^ .' • :, ■ ( jnck .. ■ ■■^•v's/-' ■'• ,'■ ■ ■"'■ '■" ,-■■ ' odio - T C " ' . ^ - v--i#'' .,. -, ..,. , ■ .. ■ I by rely \ _' ft \0 « l,'l' lilwi ttBftj^ iii iil jijW ^ii l t i ii'- • M a Ml l-t M n THE INDIANS OF CANADA. ,<:£:^^a:-r|sS^^--i^s'-SS HE following account of tliP Indians of Canada, who occasionally visited Mr. Moodic's residence in the bush, is extremely intercstin'T. It is a true and graphic delineation of their real character. It was not long before we received visits from the Indians, a people whose beauty, talents, and good qualities have been somewhat overrated, and invested with a poetical interest Avhich they scarcely deserve. Their honesty and love of truth ai-e the finest traits in characters otherwise dark and unlovely. But tlieso are -1 t;." 224 PEKILOUS ADVENTURES. «:'i II;! I Hi! I two God-like attributes, and from them spring all that is generous and ennobling about them. There never was a people more sensible of kindness, or more grateful for any little act of benevolence exer- cised towards them. We met them with confidence ; our dealings with them were conducted with the strictest integrity; and they became attached to our persons, and in no single instance ever destroyed the good opinion we entertained of them. .^. The tribes that occupy the shores of all these inland waters, back of the great lakes, belong to the Chippewa or Missasagua Indians, perhaps the least attractive of all these wild people, both with regard to their physical and mental endowments. The men of this tribe are generally small of stature, with very coarse and repul- sive features. The forehead is low and retreating, the observing faculties large, the intellectual ones scarcely developed : the ears large, and standing oflF from the face; the eyes looking towards the temples, keen, snake-like, and far apart ; the uheck-bones prominent ; the nose long and flat, the nostrils very round; the jaw-bone projecting, massy, and brutal; the mouth expressing ferocity and sullen determination ; the teeth large, even, and dazzlingly white. The mouth of the female differs widely in expression from that of the male ; the lips are fuller, the jaw less projecting, and the smile is simple and agreeable. The women are a merry, light-hearted set, and their constant laugh and incessant prattle form a strange contrast to the iron taciturnity of their grim lords. Now I am upon the subject, I will recapitulate a few THE INDIANS OF CANADA. 225 ;e a few traits and sketches of these people, as they came under my own immediate observation. A dry cedar swamp, not far from the house, by the lake shore, had been their usual place of encampment for many years. The whole block of land was almost entirely covered with maple-trees, and had originally been an Indian sugar-bush. Although the favourite spot had now passed into the hands of strangers, they still frequented the place, to make canoes and baskets, to fish and shoot, and occasionally to follow their old occupation. Scarcely a week passed away without my being visited by the dark strangers ; and as my hus- band never allowed them to eat with the servants, but brought them to his own table, they soon grew friendly and communicative, and would point to every object that attracted their attention, asking a thousand ques- tions as to its use, the material of v/hich it was made, and if we were inclined to exchange it for their commo- dities ? With a large map of Canada, they were infi- nitely delighted. In a moment they recognised every bay and headland in Ontario, and almost screamed with delight when, following the course of the Trent with their fingers, they cume to their own lake. How eagerly each pointed out the spot to his fellows ; how intently their black heads were bent down, and their dark eyes fixed upon the map ! What strange, uncouth exclamations of surprise burst from their lips as they rapidly repeated the Indian names for every lake and river on this wonderful piece of paper ! The old chief, Peter Nogan, begged hard for the coveted treasure. He would give " Canoe, venison, duck, fish for it, and more, by and by." 226 PERILOUS ADVENT UHES. !!:■.'• I felt sorry tliat I was unable to gratify his wishes ; but the map had cost upwards of six dollars, and was daily consulted by my husband, in reference to the names and situations of localities in the neighborhood. I had in my possession a curious Japanese sword, which had been given to me by an uncle of Tom Wil- son's — a strange gift to a young lady ; but it was on account of its curiosity, and had no reference to my warlike propensities. This sword was broad, and three- sided in the blade, and in shape resembled a moving snake. The hilt was formed of a hideous carved imaffc of one of their war-gods ; and a more villainous-looking wretch was never conceived by the most distorted imagination. He was represented in a sitting attitude, the eagle's claws that formed his hands, resting upon his knees ; his legs terminated in lion's paws ; and his face was a strange compound of beast and bird — the upper part of his person being covered with feathers, the lower with long, shaggy hair. The case of tliis awful weapon was made of wood, and, in spite of its* serpentine form, fitted it exactly. No trace of a joint could be found in this scabbard, which was of hard wood, and highly polished. One of my Indian friends found this sword lying upon the book-shelf, and he hurried to communicate the important discovery to his companions. Moodie was absent, and they brought it to me to demand an explanation of the figure that formed the hilt. I told them that it was a weapon that belonged to a very fierce people who lived in the East, far over the Great Salt Lake ; that they were not Christians, as we were, but said ♦■heir prayers to images made of silver, and gold. THE INDIANS OF CANADA. 227 yislies ; nd was to the )rhood. sword, om AVil- was on e to my d three- moving 3d image 3-loolving distorted attitude, ng upon and his [)ird — tho feathers, c of tliis lite of its* )f a joint of hard )rd lying imunicatc Moodie emand an t. I told rery fierce rreat Salt were, but and gold, and ivory, and wood, and that this was one of them ; that before they went into battle they said their prayers to that hideous thing which they had made with their own hands. The Indians were highly amused by this relation, and passed the sword from one to the other, exclaiming, " A god ! — Owgh ! — a god !" But, in spite of those outward demonstrations of con- tempt, I was sorry to perceive that this circumstance ^ gave the weapon a great value in their eyes, and they regarded it with a sort of niystcrious awe. For several days they continued to visit the house, bringing along with them some fresh companion to look at Mrs. MocdWs (jod ! — until, vexed and annoyed by the delight tiicy manifested at the sight of the eagle- beaked monster, I refused to gratify their curiosity, by not producing him again. The manufacture of the sheath, wliich had caused mo niticli perplexity, was ex|)1ained by old Peter in a min- ute. "'^JMs burnt out," he said. "Instrument made like sword — heat red-hot — burnt through — polished out- side. Had I demanded a whole fleet of canoes for my Japanese sword, I am certain tliey would have agreed to the bargain The Indian possesses great taste, which is displaye■ o o m » GO f. i- VJr .1: ^i'^- THE INDIANS OF CANADA. 285 frail existence. I gave him a tea-spoonful of currant jelly, which he took with avidity, but could not retain u moment on his stomach. 'Papouae die," murmured the poor woman ; " ulono — alone ! No papouse ; the mother all alone." She began re-adjusting the poor sufferer in her blanket. I got her some food, and begged her to stay and rest herself; but she was too much distressed to eat, and too restless to remain. She said little, but her face expressed the keenest anguish ; she took up her mournful load, pressed for a moment his wpsted, burning hand in hers, and left the "room. My heart followed her a long way on her melan- choly journey. Think what this woman's love must have been for that dying son, when she hud carried a lad of his age six miles, through the deep snow, upon her back, on such a day, in the hope of my being able to do him some good. Poor heart-broken mother ! 1 learned from Joe Muskrat's squav/ some days after, that the boy died a few minutes after Elizabeth Iron, his mother, got home. They never forget any little act of kindness. One cold night, late in the fall, my hospitality was de- manded by six squaws, and puzzled I was how to ac- commodate them all. I at last determined to give them the use of the parlour floor during the night. Among these women there was one very old, whose hair was as white as snow. She was the only grey- haired Indian I ever saw, and on that account I re- garded her with peculiar interest. I knew that she was the wife of a chief, by the scarlet embroi- --g;,; inde J» cone i t pour Grea 0] ■ -,. .■■■ "''.■ '."•■' yard of a '^,m^--'"- cliild ** . \^ii?v ■:.:>' "l-C - centi an ir whic iwy- THE INDIANS OF CANADA. 241 attractions ; for they are very far before the Missasa- guas in this respect. . My friend and neighbour, Emilia S , the wife of a naval oflScer, who lived about a mile distant from me, through the bush, had come to spend the day with me ; and hearing that the Indians were in the swamp, and the men away, we determined to take a few trifles to the camp, in the way of presents, and spend an hour in chatting with the squaws. What a beautiful moonlight night it was, as light as day ! — the great forest sleeping tranquilly beneath the cloudless heavens — not a sound to disturb the deep repose of nature but the whispering of the breeze, which, during the most profound calm, creeps through th(» lofty pine tops. We bounded down the steep bank to the lake shore. Life is a blessing, a precious boon indeed, in such an hour, and we felt happy in the mere conciousness of existence — the glorious privilege of pouring out the silent adoration of the heart to the Great Father in his universal temple. On entering the wigwam, which stood within a few yards of the clearing, in the middle of a thick group of cedars, we found Mrs. Tom alone with her elvish cliildren, seated before the great fire that burned in the centre of the camp ; she was busy boiling some bark in an iron spider. The little boys, in red flannel shirts, which were their only covering, were tormenting a puppy, which seemed to take their pinching and pom- melling in good part, for it neither attempted to bark nor to bite, but like the eels in the story, submitted to the infliction because it was used to it. Mrs. Tom greeted us with a grin of pleasure, and motioned us to ^■m ... 242 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. sit down upon a buffalo skin, which, with a courtesy so natural to the Indians, she had placed near her for our accommodation. • **You are all alone," said I, glancing round the camp. " Ye'es ; Indian away hunting- -Upper Lakes. Come home with much deer." " And Susan, where is she ?" "By and by," (meaning that she was coming). "Gone to fetch water — ice thick — chop with axe — take long time." As she ceased speaking, the old blanket that formed the door of the tent was withdrawn, and the girl, bear- ing two pails of water, stood in the open space, in the white moonlight. The glow of the fire streamed upon her dark, floating locks, danced in the black, glisten- ing eye, and gave a deeper blush to the olive cheek ! She would have made a beautiful picture ; Sir Joshua Reynolds would have rejoiced in such a model — so simply graceful and unaffected, the very beau idSal of savage life and unadorned nature. A smile of recognition passed between us. '^he put down her burden beside Mrs. Tom, and noiselessly glided to her seat. We had scarcely exchanged a few words with our favourite, when the old squaw, placing her hand against her ear, exclaimed, "Whist! whist!" u.- . - " What is it ?" cried Emilia and I, starting to our feet. " Is there any danger ?" "A deer — a deer — in bush!" whispered the squaw, seizing a rifle that stood in a corner. " I hear sticks crack — a great way off. Stay here !" TIIH INDIANS OF CANADA. 243 to our A great way off the animal must have been, for thougli Emilia and I listened at the open door, an ad- vantage which the squaw did not enjoy, we could not hear the least sound : all seemed still as death. The squaw whistled to an old hound, and went out. " Did you hear any thing, Susan ?" She smiled, and nodded. " Listen ; the dog has found the track." The next moment the discharge of a rifle, and the deep baying of the dog, woke up the sleeping echoes of the woods ; and the girl started off to help the old squaw to bring in the game that she had shot. The Indiana are great imitators, and possess a nice tact in adopting the customs and manners of those with whom they associate. An Indian is Nature's gentleman — never familiar, coarse, or vulgar. If he take a meal with you, he waits to see how you make use of the implements on the table, and the manner in which you eat, which he imitates with a grave decorum, as if he had been accustomed to the same usages from child- hood. He never attempts to help himself, or demand more food, but waits patiently until you perceive what . he requires. I was perfectly astonished at this innate, politeness, for it seems natural to all the Indians with whom I have had any dealings. There was one old Indian, who belonged to a dis- tant settlement, and only visited our lakes occasionally on hunting parties. He was a strange, eccentric, meriy old follow, with a skin like red mahogany, and a wiry, sinewy frame, that looked as if it could bid defiance to every change of temperature. Old Snow-storm, for such was his significant name, was rather too fond of '.'4 ^ 3 244 PERILOUS ADVEXTUKES. I: 8N0W-ST0SH mm TBI 7BISKET-B0TTUS. the wliiskoy-bottlc, and when he had taken a drop toe much, ho became an unmanageable wild beast. He had a great fancy for my husband, and never visited the other Indians without extending the same favour to us. Once upon a time, he broke the nipple of his gun ; and Moodie repaired the injury for him by fixing a new one in its place, which little kindness quite won the heart of the old man, and he never came to see U3 THE INDIANS OV CANADA. 245 without bringing an offering of fish, ducks, partridges., or venison, to sliov/ his gratitude. One warm September day, he made his appearance bare-headed, as usual, and carrying in his hand a great checked bundle. "Fond of grapes?" said he, putting the said bundle into my hands. " Fine grapes — brought them from island, for my friend's squaw and papouses." • Glad of the donation, which I considered quite a prize, I hastened into the kitchen to untie the grapes and put them into a dish. But imagine my disappoint- ment, when I found them wrapped up in a soiled shirt, only 'recently taken frotii tlic back of the owner. 1 called Moodie, and begged liim to rctuin Snon'-Storm his garment, and to thank hitn for i]\Q grapes. The mischievous ci'eaturc was higldy diverted with the circumstance, and lavghcd imuioderatt'ly. "Snow-Storm," said he, ''Mis. jMoodie and the children are obliged to you for your kindness in bring- ing them the grapes ; but how came you to tie them up in a dirty shirt?" "Dirty!" cried the old man, astonished thiit we should object to the fruit on that score. " It ought to be clean ; it has been washed often enough. Owgh ! You see, Moodie," he continued, "I have no hat — never wear hat — want no shade to my eyes — love the sun — see all around me — up and down — much better widout hat. Could not put grapes in hat — blanket- coat too large, crush fruit, juice run out. I had noting but my shirt, so I takes oft' shirt, and brings grape safe over the water on my back. Papouse no care for dirty skirt; their lee-tle beUies have no ei/es." 21* y 1 246 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. f In spite of this eloquent harangue, I could not bring myself to use the grapes, ripe and tempting as they looked, or give them to the children. Mr. W and his wife happening to step in at that moment, fell into such an ecstacy at the sight of the grapes, that, as they were perfectly unacquainted with the circumstance of the shirt, I very generously gratified their wishes by presenting them with the contents of the large dish ; and they never ate a bit less sweet for the novel modi in whicli they were conveyed to me ! The Indians, under their quiet exterior, possess a deal of humour. They have significant names for every thing, and a nickname for every one, and some of the latter are laughably appi opriate. A fat, pomp- ous, ostentatious, settler in our iieighbourhood they called 3//(fA^.7/rt'(.', "the bull-frcg." Another, rather a fine young man, but with a very red face, they named Segoskee, " the rising sun." Mr. Wood, who had a farm above ours, was a remarkably slender young man, and to him they gave the appellation of Metiz^ " thin stick." A woniMH, that occasionally worked for me, had a disagreeable s(iii:nL; she Vras known in Indian by the name of Sacluibo, " cross-oye." A gentleman with a very large nose was Choojas, " big, or ugly nose." My little Addie, who was a fair, lovely creature, they viewed with great approbation, and called A7ioonk, " a star;" while the rosy Katie Avas Nogesigook, "the northern lights." As to me, I was Nonocosique, a " humuiing-bird ;" a ridiculous name for a tall woman, buL ic luiii ret'c. encu to the delight I took in painting birds. My friend, Emilia, was "blue cloud;" my little Donald, "frozen .face;" young C , "the red- THE INDIANS OV CANADA. 247 ik, " a " the headed woodpecker," from the colour of hia hair ; my brother, Chippewa, and " the bakl-headcd eagle." Ho was an especial favourite among them. The Indians are often made a prey of, and cheated by the unprincipled settlers, who think it no crime to overreach a red skin. One anecdote will fully illus- trate this fact. A young squaw, who was near becom- ing a mother, stopped at a Smith-town settler's house to rest herself. The woman of the house, who was Irish, was peeling for dinner some large white turnips, which her husband had grown in their garden. The Indian had never seen a turnip before, and the appear- ance of the firm, white, juicy root gave her such a keen craving to taste it that she very earnestly begged .for a small piece to eat. She had purchased at Peter- borough a large stone-china bowl, of a very handsome pattern, (or, perhaps, got it at the store in exchange for a basket,) the worth of which might be half-a-dollar. If the poor squaw longed for the turnip, the value of which could scarcely reach a copper, the covetous European had fixed as longing a glance upon the china bowl, and she was determined to gratify her avaricious desire and obtain it on the most easy terms. She told the squaw, with some disdain, that her man did not grow turnips to give away to "Injuns," but she would sell her one. The squaw offered her four coppers, all the change she had about her. This the woman refused with contempt. She then proffered a basket ; but that was not sufficient ; nothing would satisfy her but the bowl. The Indian demurred ; but opposition had only increased her craving for the turnip in a ten- fold degree; and, after a short mental struggle, in 111 y 1 248 I'EUILOriS ADVKXTUllKS. which the animal propensity ovcrctnno the warning of prudence, the sfiuaw gave up tlie bowl, and rccc'^eJ in return 07ie iurnij)! The daughter of this woman told me this anecdote of her mother as a very clever thing. What ideas some people have of moral justice I I have said before that the Indian never forgets u kindness. Wo had a thousand proofs of this, when, overtaken by misfortune, and withering beneath the iron grasp of poverty, we could scarcely obtain breac for ourselves and our little ones ; then it was that the truth of the Eastern proverb was brought home to our hearts, and the goodness of God fully manifested towards us, "Cast thy bread upon tbf Avatpr, jind thou shalt find it after many days." Dining better times we had treated these poor saviiges with kindness and liberality, and when dearer friends looked coldly upon us they never forsook us. For many a good meal I have been indebted to them, when I had nothing to give in return, Avhen the pantry was empty, and *' the heirth-stone growing qold," as they term the want of provisions to cook at it. And their delicacy in con- ferring these favours was not the least admirable part of their conduct. John Nogan, who was much attached to us, would bring a fine bunch of ducks, and drop them at my feet " for the papouse," or leave a large muskinonge on the sill of the door, or place a quarter of venison just within it, and slip away without saying a word, thinking that receiving a present from a poor Indian might hurt our feelings, and he would spare us the mortification of returning thanks. When an Indian loses one of his children, he must keep a strict fast for three dayj?, abstaining from food I'S, r of a me I Btrai Till': INDIANS OF ('AN-Af).v. 249 •I al^ HANDSOME JACK AND Mn. TOV-^a of any kind. A luintcr, of the name of Young, told me a curious story of their rigid observance of this strange rite. 250 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. t ■I "They had a chief," ho said, "a feAV years ago, whom they called ' Handsome Jack' — whether in deri sion, I cannot tell, for he was one of the ugliest Indians I ever saw. The scarlet fever got into the camp — a terrible disease in this country, and doubly terrible to those poor creatures who don't know how to treat it. His eldest daughter died. The chief had fasted two days when I met him in the bush. I did not know what had happened, but I opened my wallet, for I was on a hunting expedition, and offered him some bread and dried venison. He looked at me reproachfully. " ' Do white men eat bread the first night their papouse is laid in the earth ?' " I then knew the cause of his depression, and left him." On the night of the second day of his fast another child died of the fever. He had now to accomplish three more days without tasting food. It was too much even for an Indian. On the evening of the fourth, he was so pressed by ravenous hunger, that he stole into the woods, caught a bull-frog, and devoured it alive. He imagined himself alone, but one of his people, sus- pecting his intention, had followed him, unperceived, to the bush. The act he had just committed was a hide- ous crime in their eyes, and in a few minutes the camp was in an uproar. The chief fled for protection to Young's house. When the hunter demanded the cause of his alarm, he gave for answer, " There are plenty of flies at my house. To avoid their stings I came to you." It required all the eloquence of Mr. Young, who mm W" THE INDIANS OF CANADA. 251 who enjoyed much popularity among them, to reconcile the rebellious tribe to their chief. They are very skilful in their treatment of wounds, and many diseases. Their knowledge of the medi- cinal qualities of their plants and herbs is very great. They make excellent poultices from the bark of the bass and the slippery-elm. They use several native plants in their dyeing of baskets and porcupine quills. The inner bark of the swamp-alder, simply boiled in water, makes a beautiful red. From the root of the black briony they obtain a fine salve for sores, and ex- tract a rich yellow dye. The inner bark of the root of the sumach, roasted, and reduced to powder, is a good remedy for the ague ; a tea-spoonful given between the hot and cold fit. They scrape the fine white powder from the large fungus that grows upon the bark of the pine into whiskey, and take it for violent pains m the stomach. The taste of this powder strongly re- minded me of quinine. -.','-<■ - 'v I have read much of the excellence of Indian cookery, but I never could bring myself to taste any thing pre- pared in their dirty wigwams. I remember being highly amused in watching the preparation of a mess, which might have been called Indian hotch-potch. It consisted of a strange mixture of fish, flesh, and fowl, all boiled together in the same vessel. Ducks, par- tridges, muskinonge, venison, and muskrats, formed a part of this delectable compound. These were literally smothered in onions, potatoes, and turnips, which they had procured from me. They very hospitably ofiered me a dishful of the odious mixture, which the odour of the muskrats rendered every thing but savoury ; but I ' 1^ 1 252 PERILOUS ADVENTUKES. declined, simply stating tliat I was not hungry. My little boy tasted it, but quickly left the camp to con- ceal the effect it produced upon him. Their method of broiling fish, however, is excellent. They take a fish, just fresh out of the water, cut out the entrails, and, without removing the scales, wash it clean, dry it in a cloth, or in grease, and cover it all over with clear hot ashes. AVhen the fiesh will part from the bone, they draw it out of the ashes, strip off the skin, and it is fit for the table of the most fasti- dious epicure. The deplorable want of chastity that exists among the Indian women of this tribe seems to have been more the result of their intercourse with the settlers in the country than from any previous disposition to tills vice. The jealousy of their husbands has often been exercised in a terrible manner against the offcndiiig squaws ; but this has not happened of late years. The men wink at these derelic.tions in their wives, and share with them the price of their shame. The mixture of European blood adds greatly to the physical beauty of the half-race, but produces a sad falling off from the original integrity of the Indian character. The half-caste is generally a lying, vicious rogue, possessing the worst qualities of both parents in an eminent degree. We have many of these half- Indians in the penitentiary, for crimes of the blackest dye. The skill of the Indian in procuring his game, either by land or water, has been too well described by better writers than I could ever hope to be, to need any illus- tration from my pen, and I will close this long chapter been CVS in o th'iH been nding The , and 1 INDIAN CHIEFS. *, S*;*i J Z*.'^^ , 'U-*?. n'- "" » THE INDIANS OF CANADA. 255 with a droll anecdote •which is told of a gentleman in this neighbourhood. The earlj loss of his hair obliged Mr. to pro- cure the substitute of a wig. This was such a good imitation of nature, that none but his intimate friends and neighbours were aware of the fact. It happened that he had had some quarrel with an Indian, which had to be settled in one of the petty courts. The case was decided in favour of Mr. , which so aggrieved the savage, who considered himself the injured party, tRat he sprang upon him with a furious yell, tomahawk in hand, with the intention of depriving him of his scalp. He twisted his hand in the locks which adorned the cranium of his adversary, when — horror of horrors ! — the treacherous wig came oflF in his hand, " Owgh ! owgh !" exclaimed the affrighted savage, flinging it from him, and rushing from the court as if he had been bitten by a rattlesnake. His sudden exit was followed by peals of laughter from the crowd, while Mr. coolly picked up his wig, and dryly remarked that it had saved his head. 1 ENCOUNTER WITH THE BANDITTI SMUGGLERS OF ANDALUSIA. AND f"'" 1 .'i: ORD PORCIIESTER, in his Notes to the Poem of the Moor, gives the follow- ing account of a meeting with the fa- mous banditti of Andalusia : . Hearing that a caravan was but a mde in advance, -we galloppod forward and joined it as it entered the forest. We soon after- wards heard a cry of robbers, and were shown three men in the wood, leaning on their guns, whom our companions recognis»^d as fovralng members of the great banditti, whoso numbers, I suspect, had been much exaggerated. Protected by the caravan, I felt some curiosity to see the highwayman of Andalusia ; who, like the legitimuts smuggler, was distinguished by a particular dress, was mounted on the high-necked horse of the country, and had some redeeming points in his character; he was seldom known, to commit murder, or inflict any personal outrage, except in cases of continued resistance ; and affected, in the full exer- cise of his vocation, a lofty courtesy of manner, and a contempt for sordid details : but these men were not mounted, and were not remarkable for any peculiarity of appearance. (256) . EXCOUNTEll WITH BANDITTI AND SMUGGLERS. 257 We crossed the Xenil, and arrived with the caravan, as night set in, at the Posada of Benamegi, where we collected, as usual, round the great fire. As we retired to our apartment, we oflfered our companions some wine, which they received with haughty reluctance, and were not satisfied till we had pledged them in their cup and broken their bread ; but they afterwards came to our room, shook hands warmly with us, and en- treated us to join their party on the next morning. On the following day, Pusey and myself left Benamegi at an early hour. The mountains of Ruti and Priego rose magnificently before us, and rested in the bright beams of the morning : we passed along some very craggy paths, and arrived about the middle of the day at Lucena. We found the inn crowded with smugglers, who conversed freely with us, and sold their goods without any afi'ectation of concealment: their dress was handsome and their manner civil, which was not invariably the case at that period. Before the revo- lution, the Spanish smugglers formed a distinct class, that retained, with much originality of character, cer- tain defined principles, and an established code of honour, upon which they professed to act. By this code, all robbery except the plunder of the revenue was highly censured, unless it took place under very peculiar circumstances. In traversing the country, they dis- charged their daily reckonings with exactness, and often with generosity ; and, in spite of their illicit oc- cupations, showed the most incorruptible fidelity to- wards persons who placed themselves under their pro- tection or relied on their honour. Such principles were recognised, if not acted upon, by every individual who 22* 1^ 258 I'EUI'LO VH Ai) V E.N T U ilES. l|i!.l D'i'i! became a member of the fraternity ; and continued, more or less, in forco, Avhilo the number remained limited ; but when the change that was operated in the commercial policy of Spain had given a violent stimulus to the illicit trade, a new class of smugglers suddenly arose, unformed by previous habits, and solely created jy the demand for foreign merchandise ; which, in consequence of the new regulations, could no longer be supplied by the regular channels. This new- class had no restraining points of pride, and becoming alternately smuggler ana robber, they plundered the revenue, and oppressed the people ; but a marked dis- tinction existed in the public mind, and a bitter feud prevailed between the old and the new race. . »; ni Vj n d, MEETING AN ICEBERG IN THE NORTHERN OCEAN. iIIE following account of a meeting with a gigantic iceberg in the Arctic sea, is given by the author of " Two years be- fore the Mast :" At twelve o'clock we went below ; and had just got through dinner, when the cook put his head down the scuttle, and told us to come on deck and see the finest sight that wo had ever seen. " Where away, cook ?" asked the first man who was up. " On the larboard bow." Ami there lay floating in tlie ocean, several miles off, an immense ir- regular mass, its t<.p and points covered with snow, and its centre of a dcej) indigo colour. This was an ice- berg, and one of tlie largest size, as one of our men said, who had been in the Northern Ocean. As far as the eye could reach, the sea in every di- rection was of a deep blue colour, the waves running high and fresh, and spaikling in the light ; and in the midst lay this immense mountain-island, its cavities and valleys thrown into deep shade, and its points and pin- nacles glittering in the sun. All hands were soon on deck, looking at it, and admiring in various ways its beauty and grandeur. But no description can give 1 260 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. "I, till any idea of the strangeness, splendour, and, really, the sublimity of the sight. Its great size — for it must have been from two to three miles in circumference, and several hundred feet in height ; its slow motion, as its base rose and sank in the water, and its high points nodded against the clouds ; the dashing of the waves upon it, which, breaking high with foam, lined its base with a high crust ; and the thundering sound of the cracking of the mass, and the breaking and tumbling down of huge pieces ; together with its nearness and approach, which added a slight element of fear — all combined to give it the character of true sublimity. The main body of the mass was, as I have said, of an indigo colour, its base crusted with frozen foam ; and as it grew thin and transparent towards the edges and top, its colour shaded off from a deep blue to the white- ness of snow. It seemed to be drifting slowly towards the north, so that we kept away and avoided it. It was in sight all the afternoon ; and when we got to leeward of it, the wind died away, so that we lay-to quite near it for a greater part of the night. Unfor- tunately there was no moon ; but it was a clear night, and we could plainly mark the long regular heaving of the stupendous mass as its edges moved slowly against the stars. Several times in our watch loud cracks were heard, which sounded as though they must Lave run through the whole length of the iceberg, and several pieces fell down with a thundering crash, jl^ni^uiiig heavily into the sea. Towards morning a sti ong breeze sprang up, and we filled away and left it astern, and at daylight it was out of sight No pencil has ever yet given any thing like the true effect MEETING AN ICEDEllQ IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 201 of an iceberg. ^In a picture they are huge uncouth masses stuck in the sea ; while their chief beauty and grandeur — their slow stately motion, the whirling of the snow about their summits, and the fearful groaning and cracking of their parts — the picture cannot give. This is the large iceberg ; while the small and distant islands, floating on the smooth sea in the light of a clear day, look like little floating fairy isles of sap- phire. img a left it .No ! efiFect J 1 l||;i'i CIBOASSIANB. ADVENTURES IN CIRCASSIA. :c^ lEUTENANT-COLONEL 0. POU- LETT CAMERON, K. F. S. etc., who was employed on a special ser- vice in Persia, in 1838, published a narrative of his adventures after his return, from which we make the fol- lowing extracts ; — We bowled gaily and gallantly along, the time being enlivened by the mimic conflicts of our escort, whoso dexterity in the management of their horses and arms was most admirable, and scarcely to be surpassed. A period of rather less than two hours brought us to the ADVENTUllES IN CIRCASSIA. 263 scene of our intended festivity. A spot more singularly wild, picturesque, and beautiful it is impossible to imagine. It was a kind of glivde, being one among many situated on an extent of turf, which, for smooth- ness and colour, seemed to rival the finest velvet, divided by one of the small, yet tempestuous and foam- ing, streams of the mcuntainn. To our right rose the magnificent and majestic Elborooz, towering in the midst of its eternal snows, like ooine mighty despot in the midst of his satellites, — so comparatively insignifi- cant, when placed in juxtaposition appeared the lofty range of the Caucasus. It was late, and the moou had risen before our party separated, being much tired, yet infinitely more de- lighted with our excursion. As the night was uncom- monly clear, and the caravan pace we should have been obliged to keep at, in the event of our returning in the same manner we came, was by no means to the taste of either my companion (Captain V of the Grena- diers of the Imperial Guard) or myself, I proposed our at once proceeding onward,— ^to which on his readily acquiescing, I directed the coachman to push on, who, accordingly, had whipped his horses into a gallop, when the oliiccr commanding the escort, called to him to stop. -^ 7: -: ■: i - i I/; . » V. This gentleman, on approaching the carriage, remon- strated, in the strongest terms, upon our proceeding alone, when parties of the mountaineers were known to be hovering near. We thanked him for his considera- tion and politeness, but informing him, as we mustered six persons, well armed, (my two Persian domestics being in the rumble behind, with my friend's valet, in 1 c t 264 PERILOUS ADVENTURES* addition to the coachman and ourselves,) we had not the least apprehension, he very reluctantly allowed U3 to proceed on our way to the town, where we arrived without the slightest accident, — although, at a turning in the road, as we came full upon it, we could not for- bear detaining the carriage eight or ten minutes, to gaze once more upon the old patriarch, Elborooz, shi- ning in the clear moonlight, his whole appearance being rendered, if possible, more majestic and imposing at this time than by day. . ■ The principal of the five mountains from which the town of Piatigorsk takes its name, is the "Maschouka," about five and twenty or thirty yards up the ascent of which is the mouth of a gouffre, or cavern, possessed of a reputation by no means the most favourable with the whole of the neighbouring population, whether Rus- sian, Circassian, Cossack, or Tartar, it being known by the omiuous cognomen of the "Sheitan Munzilee," a word in the latter language signifying the Devil's abo'^f Several of my Russian friends had long thought of the possibility of exploring it ; and it was at length proposed by Captain V to the Count de L , a nobleman of illustrious family, an officer of chasseurs, and myself to make the attempt. Accordingly, having devoted some days for the purpose of more minutely surveying the gouffre, and making the requisite arrange- ments on the 27th July, the latter being completed, we resolved to undertake the adventure, and accompanied by the Prince de G , and several other friends, pro- ceeded to the spot. The entrance of the cavern formed a circumference of about fifty feet, while its perpendicular descent, we were ADVENTURES IN CIRCASSIA. 265 £» afterwards led to believe, varying from three hundred to three hundred and twenty, and occasionally narrowing and increasing in width, oflfered no impediment in its course downwards to the bottom, which we could observe formed a sheet of water apparently covering the whole. Having constructed a platform on the edge, surmounted with two thick poles and a traverse beam, a strong coil of rope was rove through a pulley in the centre of the latter to the end of which was attached a stick, which, placed between the legs, would form a support in the descent. In some measure to ascertain the depth of the water, we disengaged a heavy fragment of rock, and let it fall — a heavy, sullen plunge succeeded, evidently betoken- ing the water to be of some depth. We now com- menced our preparations, and having cast lots to decide who should commence, it fell upon Count de L . To guard against the possibility of meeting any trouble- some occupants, who might be disposed to resent this sudden and unexpected invasion of their subterranean abode, each took the precaution of being provided with pistols, and the formidable Circassian kummur,* or short sword. * The Circassians carry two sworda, the one, a long, straight sabre, being mucb the same description of blade as that carried in our regiments of light cavalry, and is chiefly used when on horse- back; the other in length, make, and breadth closely resembling the old Roman sword, which, indeed, many antiquaries suppose to be altogether the same. The last is slung in their f»;irdle toward the left side, and in their close conflicts with the Russian infantry, is the weapon most particularly dreaded, from the dexterity with which it is wielded, one single stroke suflicing in general to sever the limb it encounters, while from the stab it inflicts recovery is almost utterly hopeless. 23 266 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. All being ready, a small but strong raft, with a couple of paddles, was lowered down, and the Count taking a pistol from his belt to be held in readiness, quickly followed ; it was a nervous spectacle, but after some minutes of suspense, we liad the satisfaction of seeing the gallant nobleman reach the plationn in safety. , • j • It was now my turn, — I had commenced the descent, and was about a third of the way down, when an inci- dent occurred which had well nigh left me the task of adorning instead of telling a tale, and which arose from one of the three Russian soldiers who had charge of the rope venturing to look over tlie ledge, when, terri- fied at the fancied peril of my situation, or rendered giddy by gazing from the height, he fell back upon his companions, to whom he appeared to communicate his own terrors, when they all at once let slip the rope, which spun through the block with tremci^dous velocity. I shouted at the utmost pitch of my voice, but fortu- nately my friend V perceived the danger, and springing forward, seized hold of the cord, and by his voice and example brought the men to their senses. I ■^'as thus fortunately enabled to reach the bottom in safety. It required but two minutes, as soon as we could distinctly discern what was around us, to perceive that our adventure scarce repaid the risk we had encount- ered, and was here terminat'^d ; as, on being joined by V , and having ferried . /Und the entire circumfer- ence, no further signs of any outlet appeared visible, the sides being a mass of solid rock, while the only inhabitants were a myriad of bats, and some half a I 3Q !2i o m M 3 ilf « ( • ■ I 1^ I .* - ■ a •K- !- t; . ' s ' ' - '>-!-f \ ^ ^ r- ) ^ ' ^ ■• ' b t . X * a . ■■ . 'i -J r e • --,'.■ c. % (J tl ■' I ADVENTURES IN CIKOASSIA. 269 dozen owls, the latter of whom seemed to vicT our unexpected intrusion with an air of offended dignity and indignation. The water was as bright and clear as crystal, and seemed so equally impregnated with sulphur and salt, that neither of us could determine which of these minerals seemed most to predominate. After passing about a quarter of an hour in our sub- terranean abode, we made the signal to be drawn up ; and thus terminated our adventure, the news of which, I know not why, but, in all probability, from the exaggerated description of the dangers attending it, caused a considerable sensation among all classes at the time ; so much so, that on its reaching the ears of the commander-in-chief, the considerate and highly dis- tinguished General GrabbS, to guard against any other person atten^pting it a second tiii:;?, he sent peremptory orders for all our apparatus for eftecting it to be de- stroyed, and forbidding any similar construction for such a purpose in future. A party of ten or twelve of us were out enjoying the pleasures of the chase, and carried away by the ardour of the sport, we felt but little disposed to listen to the remonstrances of one or two of the more prudent among our number, who more than once reminded us we had got far beyond the Russian line, and were full ten or twelve versts in the enemy's counury. On we went, however, scampering through the rich valleys, and up and down the. various hills, till after several hours, our horses being pretty well jaded, and ourselves rendered extremely hungry, we halted for some time at a small grove, on the brow of a hill, commanding an extensive view of the superb scenery in our front, which, occa- 23* 5 1 270 PERILUUS ADVENTUUES. sionalljr broken in upon by knots of trees, and rising, undulating mounds, socmcd one continued carpet of green verdure. In the course of half an hour some of the party were again mounted, others Avere engaged in tightening their girths, while some had not even yet finished the more important duties in which their masticatory organs were still employed, Avhen two or three of the former, who had ridden half-way down, and were gazing on the scene before them, all at once wheeled their horses round, and with considerable dismay painted in their countenances, and calling out, au grand galop, les mon- tagnards, darted down the opposite side of the hill, in which they were quickly followed, by all the rest, with the exception of L i and myself, the delay on my part being occasioned, in the first place, by my very imperfectly understanding what had been the cause cf this sudden confusion ; and again, being at the same mo- ment occupied in arranging the saddle girths, while the attention of my companion was more seriously bent upon a large sandwich, and a pint bottle of Champagne, in the diligent discussion of Avhich he was employed at the time. . - <^ -■ . '< Our delay seemed to cause considerable impatience and not a few execrations on the part of our compa- nions, who of course, could not leave us behind, and one of them, a short, stout, corpulent, elderly gentleman, immediately rode back, and darting an angry glance at me, bitterly reproached my companion for his hair- brained follv, in thus hazardinii; the lives of the whole party by his dilatory supineness. We, however, soon mounted, and on rtjoiniiig the party, and inquiring rising, pet of .y were ig their le more ns were sr, who on the horses in their es mon- ', hill, in ist, with f on my my very jause cf ame mo- vhile the sly bent mpagne, loycd at =•«. .t W^m ' Datience [• compa- and one ntleman, y glance Ills hair- he whole vcr, soon inquiring : 'fey j£^^ A COSSACE. ADVENTURES IN CIRCASSIA. 273 into the cause of this sudden confusion, were at once informed, that about three or four hundred yards imme- diately in our front, twelve or fifteen men were ob- served stealthily gliding from one cluster of under- wood to another. All were now turned for instant flight, when, raising my voice, I pointed out the consequences of such an ill- advised measure, since, if the persons who had been seen possessed any hostile intention, they would soon overtake us, their horses being much fresher than ours, and their numbers, in all probability, ten times as numerous ; that from the greater part of us wearing the costume of the country, it was iL.^ossible at that distance, for them to ascertain whether we were a party of Cossacks of the Line, or a detachment from their own body, but that the slightest signs of flight on our part, would at once determine our real character, and give the signal for an immediate pursuit. I further suggested, that our best course of proceeding would be to descend to the valley at the foot of the hill, which, by an even, though circuitous course, led direct to the town and post of Ki&lavosk, and which would sometimes expose us to, but more generally exclude us from the view of our opponents, between whom and ourselves, by moving along at a slow trot, we should then place some distance, without blowing our horses, should they feel inclined to pursue ; till, having fairly got a good start, and successive hills having wholly closed all sight of us from those in our rear, we could then ply whip and spur, and try who could soonest verify the old proverb of, " devil take the hindmost." This advice, which was warmly seconded by L i 274 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. '*lji,;:ii :(»,;, i!li and several others, wa," finally agroetl to, and we com- menced our retreat, not withoiU sundry misgivings, and frequent turnings of the head over the shoulder from the whole party ; when, having gained oui vantage ground without any pursuit or molestation, off wo started flying like the wind, keepiiig, as the old saying has it, "one spur in, and the other never out;" the whole bringing most forcibly to my remembrance an exactly similar scene that had occurred c ;ice in life to me before, in which a part of the force I belonged to, having succeeded in getting into an ambuscade, those possessed of swift horses, strong arms, and good luck, succeeded in clearing their way through, the survivors merely leaving three-fourths of their original number behind them. Better fortune, however, attended us this time, as we reached Kislavosk without the slightest danger, except what resulted from the various mountain streams which crossed us in our flight, and which, in son)-? places of great depth, and running with extreme vi^^- lence, were not passed without some hazard, though so admirably trained were our gallant chargers, that no other inconvenience was the result, than an occasional cold bath to our lower extremities, reaching, however, at times up to the breast. e com- 58, and r from antagc off wo saying ,;" the nee an 1 life to ged to, e, those 3d luck, [irvivors number time, as danger, streams in somT Ejmc xift- lougli so that no casional lowevcr, H .3 tf> 1 t> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^.-. .<■/ V C^'x I.I I."* IKS 1.8 1.25 1.4 |l.6 * 6" — ► V] <^ rf ^V 7 % 7 V /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 .,-^. - r .',■ ■ .-.-„ ««. - ' 'tf,-'^^*^ ■■ :^^--.-;j:;^ ' ■■ -."^^T ■ ] ^ . ■.;^^^^-'^^-u "■■'■". ' -r--^. J- / ' '■* / '"" -- ,. -- ! 1 •s* L 1 1 ' *•* «. p . ^-. 5 i ^ *■ u ,i ' t.. * "' V * *' - 1* , ,..u. <■ t[ r 4, f ^ m .« ** ^ he T .-^ ■%» ■KSli ENCOUNTER WITH ROBBERS IN TURKEY. HE Rev. Horatio Southgate, a min- [^^ istcr of the American Episcopal Church, travelled in Turkey, under the direction of the Board of Mis- sion Avhich that church had insti- tuted. This route was frequently beset by bands of Kurds, who de- pended upon robbing for a living. One day after leaving Moush, on halting for rofvoshraents, he heard that a villager had been laurdeioil that morning in the mountains: and on the t-ume day, in a desolate place, he was stopped by a party of the fierce mountaineers. The alarming encounter is thus described by the min- ister : — " The movement threw our muleteer into great ter- ror. He suddenly ordered us to draw up into a body and to move forward slowly, wliilc he hastened to meet the advancing horsemen. A warm parley ensued. The -party eyed us keenly as wc approached. My spirits sank very perceptibly when I encountered the same fero- cious look that I had seen in Moush. The conversation between the muleteer and the horsemen became more earnest, but being in Kurdish, we could understand nothing, excepting by their looks and gestures that it related to us. The poor muleteer, who had served us most faithfully from the first, looked as if he Avcre upon ? 1 278 rEUILOUiJ ADVENTURES. Kl,.,.„iii the rack. He, succeeded, liowcvci-, by what arguments I know not, in effecting his object, for, ufter some delay, we were suffered to proceed in safety. The Kiahya'a story revived the recollection of the adventure, and as if this were not enough, I began to feel some self-reproach for having undertaken the journey. John, too, became gloomy ; called himself a fool for having exposed his life for the paltry consideration of monthly wages ; and wished himself in Constantinople. All this induced a fit of loneliness ; and, for the first time since my journey began, I lay down upon my grass couch with a heavy heart. " How healing is sleep ! How repulsive of care are the bright beams of the morning! John rosea new man, and I found in the protection of the night some- thing still to be grateful for. " In the course of the (h\y wo passed four old and deserted khans of an ancient and solid architecture. The principal one was built of hewn stone, with round towers or abutments at the angles and sides. It was in the Saracenic style, and had doubtless boon erected many wge^^ hvc]<, f(U' time had now decorated its walls with green ti-;'.>s('s v.Mviug from eveiy gaping chink. A stone fountain, which still furniyhcd refreshing water, stood before it, and a merry cascade played near by." A wealthy Armenian at Bitlis, to whom Mr. South- gate had a letter from Erzroum, gave him a very in- hospitable reception ; pretending to know nothing what- ever of the person by whom it was written. In these circum'5t:i.nf^cv-i, returning the letter into his pocket, he dv.siiod lo ln> ctiiM 1 'tod to ihe Bey, a Kurd, who chanced to be found in one of the khans. "In a few minutes I was in his presence. Ho sat in r/.NCiJLWl'iUl Willi llOiiBHUS IN TURKEY. 279 one corner of the room, g "t INDIAN HUNTING THE ELK. f ill'-' -0- 11 IffplE|]|l!l!' ^,^®% V' J#>:- I t r 1' a (1 \ ri I re di: h ADVE^^TURES liS OllEGON. 28d here, that wc came to the conclusion that the soone* wo were out of the place the better it would be for us, and so soon as we had taken a little refreshment from our scanty stores, we told our pjuide that we were ready to proceed ; but he positively refused to go any farther that day, saying that it would be using his ])Loplo very ill, and that the chief would be very angry with us, if we did not stop and sleep with them one night. The contention became ^uite warm, and we began to consider ourselves in rather critical circumstances. If abandoned by our guide, it was extremely doubtful whether wo could find our way back to the fort, or for- ward to the great valley of the Umpqua. The whole country was rough and mountainous, and there was no visible trail but a small portion of the way. But with all these difficulties, we showed that we Avcre fixed in our resolutions to leave this suspicious horde of savages before darkness could favour them in the execution of any treacherous designs which they might entertain towards us. Discovering that we were ready to mount our horses, We- We became more pli- able, and said that he would proceed with us, on con- dition that wo would pay him an extra shirt, we having at first given him a shirt and a pair of pantaloons. Mv. Lee said he would give him no more, but, to get rid of the difficulty, I told We-We that if he would go, I would give him the additional shirt so soon as we shouh reach the great valley. Turning to his people, We- We addressed them a few words in the Umpqua lan- guage, and then told us he was ready to go. Accor- dingly, we left this group of wretched beings about hree o'clock, p. m., and galloped swiftly over a little 26 290 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. C plain towards a high mountain. Three hours' hard labour in ascending and descending, brought us to tho foot of the mountain on the opposite side, and passing through a dense thicket, we found ourselves again on the bank of the river. We-We brought out a well known Indian "whoop," and was answered by another Indian, just below us, on the river. Im- mediately four Indians came in sight, with a canoe, and We-We told us that we had better unpack our horses, and put all our things in a canoe to be taken up the river, a few miles beyond a place where the pass was very rocky, narrow, and dangerous. But tho strange conduct of the Indians we had left, had ex- cited our suspicions ; and supposing that those in tho canoe were some of the same party whom We-We had, perhaps, caused to come up the river for no good pur- pose, we resolved to keep what we had under our own eye as long as we could. We told the guide that we should keep our things on our horses' backs. We- Wo hung his head, and told us we would be sorry for it before wc got through. We proceeded, but found it as We-We had forewarned u°. Our trail lay along a frightful precipice which towered far above us, and ex- tended far below us, and in some places was so narrow and broken that a miss-step would have precipitated us headlong on the rocks below, or into the rushing waters f the Umpqua. In one instance my own horse fell from ten to fifteen feet down the rocks, but at length Bucceeded in gaining the trail without receiving much injury. But we were not destined to make the pass, without considerable difficulty. In passing the last dangerous KitikteantmnM^jikim ■'fl.-.afi.'MTT-.-ifVi'r.i^ AD VKN TURKS IN OllEGON. 291 urs' hard us to tlio d passing a^ain on t out a answered A^er. Im- a canoe, ipack our I be taken ■where the But the ■t, had cx- lose in the ^e-We had, [good pur- er our own de that we We-Wc orry for it *ound it as y along a js, and ex- so narrow pitated us ling waters horse fell at length ving much 3s, without dangerous poiN*''. " old Pomp," our pack horse, lost his footing, and rolling down a rocky steep of some thirty feet, went backwards into the Umpqua river. We hud fas- tened around his neck a long lasso, and the end of it remaining on shore, we succeeded, by drawing it around a tree, in raising and keeping his head above the water until We- We had relieved him of his pack. While We-We was at work among the rocks, where the water was up to his neck, trying to relieve the horse of his burden, he told us tliat we might have saved our- selves that difficulty, if we had trusted to the honesty of an Indian ; and we ourselves began to suspect that our fears had been quite groundless. It required our utmost efforts to keep the horse from drowning; but after wo hsid relieved him of liis load, lie managed him- self a little better, and finding a ])lace Avhich was not quite so steep as the one where he entered the river, we succeeded, at that point, in getting liim on the rocky shore. All our bedding, provisions, &c., were thoroughly soaked ; but gathering up what Avas not spoiled, and putting some on the horses, and carrying some on our own shoulders, we started on, being in- formed by the guide, that it was not far to a fine prairie. Night began to set in, and as we left the scene of our disaster, we entered a dense forest of fir, and the gloom continucMl to thicken around us until we Avere enveloped in total darkness. We were leading our animals by the bridle, and feeling our way among the trees, in the midst of darkness, so dense that it was impossible to see a white horse, though within a foot of one's nose, when we became so entangled among the logs, ravines, and brush, that we found it was im- 292 PElin/JUS ADVENTURES. f mi'"' ' possible to go cither forwards or backwards, to the right or to the left, and colloqviisirig a little through the darkness, wo caiuc to the conclusion to tie our horses to tlic trees, and make the best of the night we could. Having a few matches in my pocket, and the icavcs and limbs iiMder my feet being perfectly dry, 1 soon had the foresu illuminated, and then was disclosed to our view a most horrible place. We sought for a spot on which to sleep, but could find none level and large enough to stretch ourselves upon. We must cither bend over the top of a knoll, or double up in a ravine, or remain in a sitting or standing posture. AVc preferred the second, so wrapping ourselves in oui wet blankets and rolling into a hollow, we tried to compose ourselves to sleep ; but the cracking of limbs by the tramp of our horses, the howling of wolves, and the screech of an ov,l, fre([uently disturbed our re- pose. The morning sun, however, enabled us so to ad- just our rather disarranged aflairs that we could, quite comfortably, ])rosecute our journey. Next day was Sabbath, but we conld not remain where we were, and we proceeded on a few miles, and came to a band of about thirty of the Umpipias, with whom we tarried for several Iiours. They behaved themselves quite orderly, and v.ere anxious to render us all the assistance in their power. We preached the gospel to them as well as we were able, and tliey said they wanted very mu^'h to have a missionary come among them. Not desiring to sleep in the vicinity of their lodge, we made signs of wishing to leave, and the old men came around us, of whom there Avcrc several, and patting us on the shoulders, seemed to express great attachment. But 1 ■i i ADVENTURES IN OREGON. 293 , to the through d tie our night we , and the tly dry, 1 disclosed ight for a lone level We must le up in a g posture. Ives in oui e tried to 2 of limbs of wolves, )cd our rc- s so to ad- ould, quite day was were, and |a band of tarried for ;e orderly, jistance in lem as well ery mu^^h t desiring ade signs round us, us on the cnt. But we concluded that their lovo vras not so ardent as to render it desirable, on our part, to stop with them over night, and, as our provision Avas growing scircc, we decided to set our faces towards theWallaracttc valley. Gathering up the wreck of our pack, v.'c again mounted, and travelling about twelve miles, encamped on the bank of a beautiful rivulet which is one of the tribu- taries of the Umpqua. We travelled during the whole day the distance of twenty-five miles, over as fine a country as can be found in any part of tlie world. An agreeable variety of liills, plains, and groves of pine, fir, and oak, constituted scenery of tlie most picturesque beauty, and the eye was never weary in gazing upon the ever varying picture. In addition to tliis, the soil is good, the grass abundant, and the counti-y well rratered ; but as wo proceeded up tlic valley of the Umpqua, the timber became scarce. A few pines on he hills, with a few scattering oak, arc the principal kinds. Though the country h now destitute of inhabi- tants, except the wild beasts, and a few savages as wild as they, yet the day is not far distant, when it will be teeming with a civilized and Christian people. The Indians inhabiting the Umpqua valley, from the Pacific ocean one hundred miles into the interior, are very few. All that wo could find, or get avj satis- factory cvi'lencc as now in existence, did not exceed three hundred and seventy-five souls. These live in several different clans, and speak two distinct lan- guages. They would be favourable towards the estab- lishment of a mission in their country, but seem to think that the greatest benefit it would confer on them, Would be to enable them to sell their beaver and deer or.* 204 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. !i:*!.tiiii skins for a higher price. Temporal good is the sole object they avouIcI have in view. The most of them residing as thej do on the coast, are almost inacces- sible, and the establishment and support of a mission among them, would bo attended with immense ex- pense. The best information wc could obtain, from the Indians and others, led us to the conclusion that the time doubtless has been when the Indians of this valley were vastly more numerous than at present. The Umpqua tribe, but a few years ago numbering several hundred, by disease and tlieir family wars has been reduced to less than seventy-five souls. Under the impression that the doom of extinction is suspended over this wretched race, and that the hand of Provi- dence is removing them to give place to a people more worthy of this beautiful and fertile country, Ave arrived at the place of our encampment, and found ourselves again on the great California trail. Having fulfilled his engagement in bringing us around to this trail, our guide left us to return to his people. •Monday, September 1st. We quickened our pace through a country well adapted to agricultural pur- poses, and abounding in every variety of scenery ; and at noon, having travelled twenty-five miles, we stopped for dinner on Elk river, at the place Avhere, on going out, we left the California trail. In the afternoon, we again passed over the Elk mountain, and found that the fire was still raging with increasing violence. A vast quantity of the large fir and cedar timber, bed been burned down, and in some places the trail was so blockaded with fallen trees, that it was almost impos- 1 ADVENTURES IN OllEGON. 295 the sole )f them inacces- mission nse ex- in, from ion that i of this present, imbering vars has Under ispended if Provi- ple more p arrived )urselves gmg us n to his our pace ral pur- 3ry ; and stopped )n going noon, we ind that nee. A ber, hfd il was sa }t impos- sible to proceed; while now and then we passed a giant cedar, or a mammoth fir, through whose trunk the fire had made a passage, and was still flaming like an oven. Every few moments these majestic spars would come "cracking, crashing, and thundering" to the ground ; but while the fire was thus robbing the mountain of its glory, we pushed on over its desolated ridges, and at sun-down arrived on a little prairi<3 at its base, where we made our encampment. Several times during the night we were awakened by the crash of the falling timber, on the mountain, which sometimes produced a noise similar to that of distant thunder. Tuesday, 2d. Homeward bound, at noon we ar- rived at the Wallamette valley, where, according to engagement, we met the Callapooah chief. He had collected about sixty of his people, and said that he had about forty more. We remained with them four hours, and endeavoured to preach to them " Jesus and the resurrection." Many of them were sick, and they appeared wretched beyond description. Our bowels of compassion yearned over them, but it was not in our power to help them. Commending them to God, at four, p. M., we pursued our way ; but find- ing no water, we did not camp till eleven o'clock at night. We were then obliged to strip our horses on the open prairie, and turn them loose without water, and lay ourselves down upon our blankets with our lips parched with thirst. Next morning, however, we found ourselves, like Ilagar in the desert, w^ithin a short distance of good water. Here I roasted a duck for our breakfast, which the Callapooah chief had given us, and which we ate with neither bread nor 1 ^ t 296 pi; 1 1 1 (.M s A I; \' 1 ,\'r i ; f; r:;'?. sauce ; but a cup of cofTee, that " sine qtia non" for prairie travelling, washed it clown, and on the strength of it, we travelled forty miles, during the day, over a country of surpassing loveliness, on account of its en- chanting scenery and amazing fertility. Surely, thought I, infinite skill has here been employed, in fitting up a country which requires nothing more than » population under the influence of the religion of Christ, to render it a perfect paradise. The last night we encamped within fifteen miles of our families and friends, and the next day, Thursday, the 4th, wo arrived at home in safety, but found our families all prostrate with the ague and fever. Having been con- stantly in healthy exercise in our absence, we re- turned in the enjoyment of good health, and were consequently able to render ourselves useful in taking care of the sick. TERRIBLE SHIPWRECK AT THE CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. HE Clangers which tra- vellers are often com- pelled to encounter while journeying upon land shrink into trifles "when compared "with those attending voyages upon the sea. There, all the precautions of man arc most liable to be unavailing. The largest vessel is but a chip upon the mighty ocean when it is lashed to fury in a storm. The loss of tlie barque Francis Spaight at the Cape of Good Hope was one of many such fearful events. Tlie vessel had just arrived in Table Bay, when on the morning of the 7th of January, 1848, a tremendous torm arose. She parted her anchors, and in attempt- ing to beat out, grounded, broadside at tlie beach. The surf made a complete breach over the vessel, carrying away the bulwark, long boat, main hatch, and part of the deck, with one of the crew. The iidiabitants of Capo Town, anxious for the fate of the vessel, hurried to the beach. At first they attempted to send a ropo from the land to the wreck, 1 298 PERILOUS ADVEKTUllKi?. but the rope broke. Rockets with linos attaclicd, wore then fired, and one was thrown across the foremast stay, where it could not be reached on account of the fearful rolling of the sea. A whale-boat was then launched and manned by six daring fellows, who dashed through the surf, and were soon alongside of the vessel. Fifteen men, all of the crew except the carpenter, got into the boat and pushed oft". At this moment, a tremendous wave upset the boat, and twenty-one persons were seen struggling in the sujj^ for life. The people on. shore were terror-stricken ; and men on horseback were seen plunging into the sea, risking their lives to save their fellow-creatures from an awful death. Eighteen of those who were in the boat perished. The masts of the vessel fell, but the carpenter still clung to the wreck. A surf-boat and two smaller boats proceeded towards him. One of these boats was capsized and two lives lost ; but the carpenter was rescued. This man and a seaman were all of the crew that reached the shore. The bay where this dreadful disaster occurred is very much exposed to storms, and its shores are particularly dangerous, on account of their shelving character. The inhabitants of Cape Town, by their truly heroic exertions on this occasion merited the admiration of the brave of every land. Those who perished while stri- ving to reach the wreck should have had a noble monu' ment. , I i I, \Yoro it stay, fcavful unchcd hvout^U Fifteen nto tlio lendovis jrc seen a shore jre seen ve their teen of ts of the c wreck, towards wo lives nan and ic shore. ia very Iticularly luiracter. ly heroic m of the iiile stri- e monU' ASCENT OF MONT BLANC BY MADEMOI- SELLE D'ANGEVILLE. EW females have had the courage and hardihood to attempt the ascent of Mont Blanc. Among tho first was a French lady, named d'Angevillc. Near St. Lambert, in the de- partment of the Ain, at the foot of the Avestern declivity of the Jura, where many rugged mountains are linked together, is seated a mansion named Lompuds. Hero iNIademoisolle d'Angevillc was born and brought up. She exercised herself at an early age in long mountain excursions in her own neigh- bourhood, and on one occasion walkud seventy leagues in four days. One would scarcely conceive her to bo capable of such an exertion, judging from her slender figure, her small elegant foot, and a handsome hand of corresponding delicacy. Her eye certainly betrays intelligence and firmness, and her language resolution and the tone of good society. At the first sight of Mont Blanc, glowing as it then was in the rays of the setting sun, she conceived an extraordinary desire to be on tho top of it — a feeling which she has ever since cherished, and which was partly the cause of her long visit to 1 300 PERILOUS ADVENTUUi:S. Kf.e:i. Geneva, where there is so magnificent a viow of tliat mountain and its fellows. As Maclcnjoiscllo d'An gcville is not rich, it took her several years to savo the sum requisite for the enterprise, and then she said to herself, "I will now accomplish it." In the first days of September, she proceeded from Geneva to Chamouni. There, at the " Union," she immediately made known her intention. Every one and the guides themselves, joined in remonstrating with and dissuading her. llegardless of all representations, she persisted in her purpose. The guides, therefore, were at length forced to relinquish their opposition, and to enter into negotiation with the adventurous lady. She engaged Joseph Coutct, who had been already seven times on Mont Blanc as chief of the guides, hired five others and two porters ; so that the party consisted altogether of nine persons. The 3d of September, as a serene sky and a cool air announced a fine day, the necessary implements and provisions were collected, and preparations made for starting. Over thick trowsers the lady put on a woman's gown of coarse woolen stuff, and over that a goatskin cloak, such as is commonly worn by the girls ut the chalets on the Alps in the vicinity, a fur hood coming far over the face, and upon it a large straw hat, vithout green veil or green spectacles. She had besides, stout shoes, and the indispensable Alpine stick, mounted with chamois' horn. Without difficulty or inconvenience, the spirited tra- veller passed the Torrent de Mimont, the Pierre do rEchellc, the splendid glacier of Bossons, and the obelisk-like rocks of the Grands Mulcts, where she col- ASCENT OP MONT BLAJfO. 001 • that (I'An > savo e saiJ [1 from ," sho ry ono A SI with nations, ireforc, an, aiul s lady, already IS, hired Misistcd a cool ints and iide for It on a that a he girls r hood e straw he had Alpine Ited tra- Icrrc do md tho I she col- lected idunts, and wrote short notes as uicuiurialrf of tho spot to her friends and relations. Here a glorious night awaited her. Flooded by tho light of a full moon, tho vast fields of snow above, and the sparkling glaciers below her, produced a surprising effect, which w;.^ heightened by tho avalanches that descended, crasliing and thundering from the Dent du Midi past the fo;>t of the rock below. The magnificence of the scene allowed her not a moment's sleep, though sho felt quite well. She observed in tho moonlight, how Munier, one of her porters, had composed himself to sleep on a narrow ridge of rock, in such a manner that either leg hung down over a tremendous abyss, into which ho must have fallen on the slightest movement. She ste])pcd softly to him and awakened him : he eyed her at first in amazement, and then, smiling, quieted her with tho assurance that ho should be very glad if he could always find so good a bed in his mountain excursions. About three o'clock tho party pursued their route. The guides had previously made a hearty breakfast ; but Mademoiselle d'Angeville, having no appetite, con- tented herself with five dried plums and snow, and sho took nothing but this frugal meal between Chamouni . and the summit of Mont Blanc, for it was not till sho reached that point that she felt any inclination fur eating. While tho guides were breakfasting, sho changed her dress in the tent, putting on thick, warm, man's apparel, instead of the w^oman'% gown, AvhicU was an obstruction to her. Continuing her journey, Mademoiselle d'AngeviUo crossed tho Taconnaz glacier, the Petites Montees, the 26 1 ' mi ' Mm;,, 302 PERILOITS ADVENTURES. Petit Plateau, the Grandcs Montccs, and tlio Grand Plateau, Avitli an case that filled all her guides with astonishment, and occasioned the repeated remark that they had seldom seen a man walk, climb, and leap over abysses, with such firmness, safety, and resolution. Owing to her experience in climbing mountains, she found no difficulty in the ascent of Mont Blanc as far as Mur de la Cote ; and she is surprised at all prece- ding travellers, who have described it as so formidable, and represented it as being attended with such terrific circumstances, which she considers the more incompre- hensible, inasmuch as the traveller is always hold by a strong rope tied round the body, or steps upon poles held in form of a bridge between two of the guides, so that real danger is quite out of the question. It was not till slie had passed the Petits Mulcts that Mademoiselle d'Angeville began to be fatigued, and her weariness increased the nearer she came to the Mur do la Cote. This is the last but likewise the most diflicult acclivity, on account of its slope of from eiffhtv to eiirhtv-two den;rees, that you have to climb before you reach the top of JNIont Blanc. It is true that all the guides had begun to flag excepting the chief, who ahvays went on before her, and with his little axe had cut broad steps :n the frozen snow. Had there been a telescope in Geneva that would enable the observer to distinguish persons at the distance of four- teen leagues, one might ha';e AVatchcd Mademoiselle d'i^ ngeville limbing the sharp eastern border of the Calotte, and seen how her motions gradually became slower, and indicated more and more exhaustion, and how she sat down every fifty paces to rest and to take ) Grand lc3 with ai'k that cap over solution, lins, she nc as far ill prcce- rinidable, ;h terrific ncorapre- bickl by a pen poles guides, so ulets that Tued, and lie to the ,ewise the |c of from to climb [t is true [pting the with his Had hv. Ina 10 ble tl of four- lemois clle of the became .1 Ition, and Ll to take APCi.NT OF MONT BLANC. 308 breath. The otherwise lively and courageous traveller was now seized v/ith an increasing despondency, accom- panied by a painful oppression of the chest, and a feel- ing as if molten lead was circulating in her veins. She assured me herself, that she had mustered and exerted all the energies of her mind, that she might not lost all courage for proceeding further. This state she calls an agony. Several times she sank down in spite of herself, and in one of these moments — incapable of uttering a word — she heard her conductor say, " Jamais je ne menerai plus de femme sur le Mont Blanc." To facilitate her progress, Coulet pulled by a rope fastened round her waist ; and, but for this assistance, she would probably not have had strength to reach the summit. When she afterwards rallied him on his un- gallant expression, he replied that, her situation, owing to the extreme tension of the nerves and muscles at that height, was such as to threaten death ; that her face was quite distorted, like that of a person who has expired in convulsions ; and that he was every moment afraid lest he should see her drop down dead. Fortu- nately, with his assistance, her strength just sufficed to reach the top, after inexpressible exertions, on Tuesday, the 4th of September, at fifty-five minutes past twelve o'clock. The moment the air of the summit entered her lungs, she felt cured and invigorated — just the reverse of all the male ascenders of Mont Blanc, who were always weak and relaxed on the top. Not only did her bodily ailments forsake her, but she felt as it were incor- poreal, all spirit, and all gaiety. The female who the day before had been so concerned about her .modesty •5 804 I'KUll.di:;' ArVllMTKK;^. ■\vas here transforimd into a ihorouglily natural and joyous creature : for, wlicu the chief guide remarked that ho had a right to a kiss on that spot, she made no resistance, but laughingly presented her cheek for the salute. After the salute, Coutet, ■who had before been very grave, grew extremely gallant, and said to Mademoi- selle d'Angeville, "II faut qu'en revanche Mademoiselle monte plus haut quo la cime du Mont Blanc, et qui n'est encore arrive a,*|3crsonne." At a signal from him, all the other guides lent a hand, and fairly lifted the lady upwards of four feet above the surface of the snow. After this supple- mentary ascent, the provisions were unpacked, espe- cially as the lady had recovered her appetite where all other travellers lose theirs. She ate with great relish, and, as a loyal Frenchwoman, drank a glass of cham- pagne to the health of the Count do Paris. Immedi- ately afterwards she fell to Avork upon her correspon- dence, and wrote four or live short letters to her rela- tives and friends in Geneva and its environs, as Napuleou formerly dated decrees from the Kremlin. In this there was to be sure something of aftectation. The short time that she passed here she might have eni[)loyed to bettgr purpose than in writing letters; for now she had but a very brief interval for examining the prospect in all its parts. It was not till she had finished her correspondence that she directed her at- tention to the view, favoured by a perfectly clear and serene sky, such as few have met with on Mont Blanc. Here then stood Mademoiselle d'Angeville, upon a lofty island, amidst an ocean of immense mountain IS AGCKNl or MONT llLANC. 805 ral and 3inaiked ic made heck for een very lademoi- emoiselio c, ct qui es lent a four feet is supple- ced, espc" where all cat relish, of chaui- Immcdi- ;orrespon- her rela- ,' irons, as Kremlin, lil'ectation. iirht have letters ; xamining ,11 she had id her at- clear and ,iit Blanc, e, upon a mouataiu waves. Overlooking the miglity chains of the Cat- tian, Grajan, Pennine, and Ijcpontino Alps, and the Alps of Glarus, Uri, Unterwaldcn, and Borne, which lay at her feet, like huge dragons, with scales, horns, and teeth, she must have been amply compensated for what she did not see, for the view which other travel- lers profess to have obtained of Milan, the Mediterra- nean, Venice, and the Adriatic Sea. She declared that she could not discover the slightest trace of any of these objects, notwithstanding the sharpness of her sight, and the serenity of the atmosphere, since at this distance, even with a good telescope, the wholo scene is blended into an undefined mass, of an ash-gray. On this point, however, we shall not insist. With rapid and practised hand she made several sketches, and was only prevented from taking more by a cold of 8° lleaumur. What other travellers relate concerning great debility, sleepiness, disposition to vomit, bleeding at the nose, pain in the eyes, faintness of sounds, &c. she did not find confirmed by her own experience. In sliort, Mont Blanc appeared to her in many respects totally different from what it had done to preceding travellers. After a stay of fifty minutes she commenced her descent, which was performed without accident, and of course more rapidly than the ascent. That meteoro- logical influence on feminine delicacy to which we have alluded, still continued to prevail in all its force, for ]\[ademoiselle d'Angeville made no scruple to glide down over the mirror-like surface of the snow in the same manner as male travellers, that is to say seated, the guide sitting between her legs, of which he took 20* 1 306 PEIIILOUS ADVENTURES. UWI:; fast hold. Within half an hour after they had left the top it was enveloped in a dense fog, Avhich did not clear away for above a week. It is a remarkable circumstance that two oth(-x ouc- cessful attempts to ascend Mont Blanc were made at the same time with Mademoiselle d'Angeville's. M. Stoppe, of Posen, with six guides, and M. Eisenkrtimer, the landlord of the Union, at Chamouni, with his guides and parters, started shortly after her, passed the night not far from the lady, on the Grands Mulcts, and reached the summit of the mountain very soon after hci.'. Thus there were for a moment twenty-four persons at once on the top of Mont Blanc. Stoppe and Eisenkramcr congratulated the lady on her suc- cessful ascent, but stayed on the summit a much shorter time than she did, and saw scarcely any thing, for they left it again in five minutes, as though they had come merely for the sake of saying that they had been there. In a few hours Mademoiselle d'Angeville had passed the places which it had cost such labour to ascend, and reached the station of the Grands Mulcts. The days were too short, and the lady too much fatigued, for her to think of returning the same day to Chamouni, as Eisenkriimer did, after resting a while on the rock. She again passed the night there, made several sketches n the morning, and arrived about noon at Chamouni, where she was received with great rejoicing, with songs, and the firing of guns, both by natives and foreigners. She dined at the table d'hote of the Union. On the following day she gave the guides their usual treat, which had a peculiar interest. At the head of the ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. 307 I left the did not made at le's. M. mkriiraer, liis guides the night ilets, and joon after vcnty-four . Stoppc 1 her suc- ich shorter ^, for they • had come had been lad passed fScend, and The days ;igued, for iChamouni, the rock, lal sketches IChamouni, ith songs, Iforcigners. On the Isual treat, 'ad of the i; table sat Mario do Mont Blanc, no longer handsome and blooming, but lively and full of spirits, and who even drank so freely at the dessert that her tongue became very loud. Mademoiselle d'Angeville, the other female ascender of Mont Blanc, was seated at the lower end of the table, and did the honours in the genuine French style. MO.M BtANO. J LOSS OF THE VRTHKIb Mi.: c govern c-nt ), HE slilp Yrylieid, of -whosw wreck wo i, arc about to give fin account, was in a vciy decayed state when she was pui'cliased from the British East In- dia Coni})any, by some Dutch mer- chants, wlio repaired her in a tolerable manner, and sold her to the Dutch The vessel Avas equipped to carry troops and ;.iores to Batavia. On t!ic morning of November 1, 1S02, she set sail from the Texel, a port on the coast of Holland,, Avith a fair Vvind. Early on the fol- lowinii; dav, a jrale av '^o in an adverse direction. The captain of the Vrylicid im mediately had the top-gal- lant masts and 3^^^!^ strucic, to make her ride more easily ; but, as the day advanced, the force of the gale increased, and the crev.- strove in vain to manage the ship. There were a nuudjer of women and chil- dren, passengers on bnard, and as the ship was driven en 1)y tlie fuvious blai^t, their sLate was truly heart- rending. About the riiiddlo of tiio aftoi-noon, the- mainmast fell overboard, s\vee})i!iy several :t of Kent, England, that ob- ( wreck wo lit, was in 211 she was [\ East In- )utch incr- a tolerable the Dutch ;arry troops Novctuher )ort on the on the fol- ction. The the top-gal- ride move [orce of the to manage In and chil- was driven ruly heart- lainmast fell [ito the sea, The vessel Ul, that ol)- ^M ili.i! :.;'•, lT:V'ir i!.^; .ilipi. fU:m ' ■''' ■ 11 : .ill m-i ,|.;;:;:;;, pi ill!! i/i:'';. I ;-i c s f] 1j ti tl ti S( P St 6G 10. ^r ')1- :ii). 311 jects could bo discerned on land, but the tremendous Wiives prevented the approacli of aid. At length, the ship Avas brought to anchor in Ilytho Bay, and for a fcvr moments, hope cheered the breasts of those on board. Soon after, however, she was found to have sprung a leak, and while all hands were busy at the pumps, the storm came on with renewed fury. All that night the gale continued, and those on board the Vryheid were kept in a horrible state of suspense. About six o'clock the following morning, the ship parted from one of her largest anchors, and drifted on towards Dimchurch- wall, about three miles to the west of Hythe. The vvcw continued to fire guns, and hoist signals of dis- tress. At daybreak, a pilot boat put ofi'from Dover, and nearing the Vryheid, advised the captain to put back to Deal or Ilythe, and wait for calmer weather. ]>ut the ca retain would not act on this recommendation ; ho thought the pilot boat exaggerated the danger, hoped the wind would abate as the day opened, and that he should avoid the demands of the Dover pilot or the Down fees, by not casting anchor there. No sooner had the pilot boat departed, than the commo- dore at Deal despatched two boats to endeavour to board the ship. The captain stubbornly refused to take any notice of them, and ordered the crew to let the vessel drive before the wind. This they did, till the ship ran so close in shore, that the captain him- self saw the imminent danger, and twice attempted to put her about, but in vain. On the first of the pro- jecting jetties of Dimchurchyard wall, the vessel struck. No pen can describe the horrors of the Bcene that ensued. The ship continued tO beat on the 312 i'i;i;!i,'-.r/ i;k.-'. piles, the sea broakiui: ovit hci' with .>iich violence that the pumps could no h)n;^or ho worked. The foremast soon went over the side, carrying twelve seamen -with it among the boiling waves. The rudder was un- shipped, the tiller tore up the gun deck, and the water rushed in at the port-holes. At this dreadful moment, most of the passengers and crew joined in solemn prayer to the Almighty. The morning witnessed the com- plete destruction of the wreck. Numerous eftbrts were made to reach the shore by means of the boats, rafts and hogsheads. But out of 472 persons -who, a few days before had sailed from Holland, only 18 escaped, These were well treated by the inhiibitants of the coast. It was generally believed at tin' time that the vessel could have been saved, if the captain had not shut his ears against those who wore competent to ad- vise. The stubbornness of the commander has fre- quently proved fatal under such circumstances. ^Mz^jS^'^" ~^ MANDAN liunriNa-ri.ACE. ADVENTURES UPON THE UPrEll MISSOURI. HE Missouri is a branch of that vol umo of Avatcrs, ^vhich, under the name of Mississippi, pours into the Gulf of Mexico. Its main stream and several important tribuljiries, flow for several hundreds of miles through tracts of prairie land chiefly inhabited bv tlio Crov,-, IJhickfoet, As- sinaboins, and other tribes of Indians. In spite of inimerous treaties between these tribes and the Avhites, a hostile feclintr pr<'vails, and the danger of trav(;Hing through the region is thel'eby nuich increased. 314 I'EUILOUt! ADVKXTUUi:^. JMni In 1837, a younp; man visited tlic most advanced post of tlic Upper Missouri, upon some business concerning the collection of peltries. After the conclusion of his Bcrvicc, an account of his adventures was anonymously published. From this, wo make a few extracts, illus- Initing the mode of life and the perils to bo met with in the wilds of the '*fir v>est:" Our young frieinl proceeded to his place of duty by way of the Ohio, St. Louis, and Council liluffs. Hero he had to commence with his assooiates, a long land journey upon horseback. The horses which were to carry tlicm, came with their baggage, from St. Louis, to the opposite side of the ^lissouri, there a rpuirtcr of a mile broad. " We had neither a canoe nor a boat to brinj: over the bafrj^ajTe ; but this was a sm;:ll matter in the Indian country. Two skins were soon fi.-:ed by {«ome squaws, while avo commenced and made a frame, which we covered and made a canoe of in less than an hour. Although it was pretty largo, and could easily carry six men, a boy of fourteen might have carried it a whole day, without being fatigued. All the men and liorscs were got safely across. The party numbered thirty-one. W^hcn they stopped for the night, each man rolled himself in his blanket, took his saddle for a pillow, and lay down to rest beside a fire, unless the weather was rainy, in which case they raised a tent. " Our road lay through a pretty prairie, intersected here and there with small streams. Many of those being very difficult to cross, owing to their soft muddy bottoms, all hands had to cut weeds and branches to throw upon the banks, to prevent the pack-horses from miring. There was "one in particular so bad, that we ;c(l post iccrning m of his ymously 3ts, illus- met witli duty by 3. I lore ong liind were to 5t. Louis, uartcr of a boat to 11 matter I fixed by a frame, than an lid easily carried it men and umbered ;ht, each id die for nlcss the tent, ersected of tliose 't muddy chcs to ics from that we w «A^'':.fc/# •'&'%r:v.A< ADVENTURES IN THE UPPER MISSOURI. 317 had to bridge it completely ; one of the men had led my horse over, I was following, but- keeping too near the side, my foot slipped, and down I went nearly over the head, to the great amusement of the company. I never rainded, but mounted my horse and rode on till wo camped at mid-day, when I got dry. The Canadian clerk laughed at me more than any of them, but I was destined soon to have ample revenge. We had to cross a creek a few days afterwards, and one of the men having waded through and found it passable, Mr. Canadian was to go first ; he was turning his horse close upon the edge of the stream, below where wo should have crossed, when the horse stepped back, and, finding his hind feet fast, reared and kicked, until making a terrible effort to extricate himself, he reared full back, and pitched Brui^,iere right into the middle of the river. He went fairly over head and ears, and as soon as he could extricate himself, made for the side with all speed : when we found that he was not hurt, we laughed so heartily at him that he was inclined to get sulky ; but it was of no use, as it made us laugh the more." In nineteen days, they arrived at Fort St. Pierre, obtaining provisions as they went .along from friendly Indians. They were now approaching the Mandan village, a conspicuous seat of Indian population, at the point where the Missouri changes its course from the east to the south. Here we have a striking anecdote illustrative of one class of the perils to which savage life is exposed. " We were in great fear that the fort at the Mandan village had been destroyed by the In- dians, as an express that had been sent there was 27* 318 riaULCUS ADVE.NTUKES. 0fm fifteen clays beyond tlio liinc of returning. Mr. Camp, bell wished Mr. JMitcliell to stay a few days, or fiiiling tliat, to go out into the prairie and avoid the village altogether; as if the Iliccaras had taken the Mandan post, they would be waiting for us, and we would have no chance with thera, they with their allies mustering one thousand warriors. Mr. Mitchell, however, thought he would run the risk, so we crossed the river, as there were few Indians on the other side ; from here we had to keep a very sharp look-out. My turn for guard came every five nights : but they never at- tempted to steal our horses. As we came near the Mandan post, we had to conceal our fires as much as possible, and look more strictly after the horses. At last we arrived within about fifteen miles, and en- camped in a hollow. All was anxiety and speculation about the state of aiTairs at the post. We started early in the morning, every gun being ready for action, and reached within four miles pretty early in the day. — Mr. Mitchell, Mr. Christie, and one of the men, went under cover of the wood on the river to reconnoitre. We remained behind all ready in case of alarm. Mr. Mitchell was astonisheu at seeing no Indians near the village ; he fired his gun, and one of the men at the fort having heard him, came across and took him over. There was a melancholy tale to unfold — eight hundred and eighty-eight had died of the small-pox, which was brought up with the steam-boat belonging to our com- pany in the spring, and nothing was heard but the wild wail of the poor Indians that were left. The Mandans were all dead except tliirty-two, and that small num- ber have been turned out of their village by the ADVENTURES IN THE UlTEll MISSOURI. 819 Riccaras in a state of absolute starvation. We pushed away from this place for the Yellowstone, We found Riccaras and Gros-Ventres all along the river, and at every place nothing but death and devastation. When we reached the Yellowstone, small-pox had ceased in the fort, but whr.lo bands were dying out. Here, [Fort Mackenzie in the Rocky Mountains,] and over the mountains, about nine out of twelve are dying, and almost every Indian avIio comes to the fort to trade, is either ill with the disease or getting better. There have been nineteen deaths in this fort, but only three of them white men, who had never been inoculated." The party spent in all eighty-seven days in the journey from St. Louis to Fort Mackenzie, during which time our young friend slept only sixteen nights under a roof. lie describes his mode of life as healthy, the chief viands being buffalo Jtakes, eaten twice a day. A subsequent letter is dated from Fort INIackenzio, 7th April, 1839. " When I last wrote, the boats were about to start with the peltries for the Y^'ellowstone, leaving a mixed garrison in our fort of only nine. It was not long till we got into a very pretty scrape with a party of Crow Indians, w^ho are a set of rascals, rushing upon us suddenly for the purpose of carrying off our horses. I happened to be near where they were feeding at the time ; I unluckily was unarmed ; but I will copy the account of the affray from my journal. — Tuesday, May 22. — About twelve o clock I went out to the horses ; they were quite close to the fort : on my way I saw one of the horse guards coming ■J 320 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. dovn beliind the fort, ■\vliore lie had been reconnoitering ; he reported that he had seen no signs of Indians being near. I remained about fifteen minutes ■with him, and then went back towards the fort. I had scarcely left him -when one of the men called to me that the Gros-Ventres Indians Avere on the hill, a party of whom had been at war with the Assinaboins, and of wliom two had arrived the previous night. In this he was wrong, for they were not Gros-Ventres but Crow Indians. From the way in which the Indians approached the horses, I suspected they designed no good ; I ran back to assist the guard in gathering them, and drove them towards the fort. The Indians came upon us at full gallop, mostly all naked, and com- menced firing as soon as they were within shot. The guard, however, kept them off till we got the horses close to the river bank, which put it out of the power of the rascals to surround us. I pushed them on as well as I could, but they were so frightened by the Indians galloping backwards and forwards, that I could scarcely get them to move. During all this time they kept up a smart fire, which was returned by one of the guards, whilst the other retained his fire, and whenever an Indian attempted to rush among the horses he presented his gun, which had the effect of sending him to the right about. I had no arms whatever, otherwise I might have knocked some of them over. It was any thing but pleasant to hear the balls whistling about one's ears, and not bo able to re- turn the compliment. I always expected they would fire from the fort with grape shot. In this, however, I was disappointed, although one of the men had the ABVEOTURES IN THE UPPER MISSOURI. 321 itermg ; Indians S3 "witli I hiul illcd to e liill, a laboins, ht. In itres but Indians [fncd no ithcring Indians nd com- in sliot. got the t of the ed them ened by I, that I all this irncd by his fire, long the effect of no arms some of hear the le to re- ;y would lowever, had the cannon primed, and the match lighted. This was, to all appearance, our only chance of escaping with our lives ; but the clerk who had charge would not allow the man to fire, though the Indians were loading and firing as fast as they possibly could. One fellow with a red shirt fired three shots at me ; the two first were far too high, but the third time he took better aim, I dodged, and the bullet whistled close to my ear. After this they scampered ofi". I then ran into the fort for my rifle, in case they should return we could get the horses in. I had just time to run up to the north bastion, and put on my powder-horn and ball-pouch, when, looking out at one of the ports to my inexpres- sible grief, I saw the horses gallop down past the fort. They had made a run, and none of the men, who by this time were outside, attempted to stop them, or to assist the guard in doing so. The Indians then seized the opportunity, and carried them all off : we fired two rounds of grape, and blazed away with our muskets, but to no purpose, for they soon got out of our reach. What made the affair so annoying was, that three of us had risked our lives, and had succeeded in bringing the horses to the gate, whilst those inside had rendered us no assistance whatever. I had a good buffalo run- ner, which cost me upwards of seventy dollars : he went with the rest. The horses belonging to the com- pany were all fine animals, the trash having been sold off in the Spring. The party of Indians consisted of about sixty men, all well mounted and armed." The meetings with the Indians for trading purposes, which generally take place after the arrival of a boat at the fort with goods, are thus described : — " Each II 322 I'iiUrf.OU.S ADVf:NTl;Il['Js', C chief heads his band of warriors ; the flag is lioistod, and a cannon fired, on the arrival of the different chiefs, ■\vho generally bring presents of boaver-robes or horses for the chief of the fort. In return for tiiese, they are presented with dresses, &c. After smoking and haranguing in favour of the whites for a while, they get a very hirge kettle of liquor before leaving the fort. So soon, however, as they get outside, the row commences ; nun, women, and children, yelling and singing like a pack of fiends — tumbling about in every direction, in every vai'iety of nudity, for very few of them can boast 'of a complete dress, especially in BU'.....er time. A few of tlu^ greatest men are admit- ted into the fort to sell their peltries. Among these is the great chief of the lilackfect ; he won't trade with any but me. ^Vlien he enters the gate, none of his band dare follov,' him, lu; has them all so well under command, llis medicine is a weasel, with five or six bells attached to the nose, and slung across his shoulder with a piece of old ru)ui ; these he must ring before he smokes, or, as is often the case, one of his band rings them behind h's back when he takes his pipe, lie is a fine old fellow ; and I should think from his appearance, he is at least about six feet four or five inches high. He affects the dress of a white man, and delights in a pair of pantaloons, hat, &c. I had almost forgot to mention another remarkable personage, who is second to none in this country ; his name is Le lleynard. He is one of those fellows that Avill make himself heard, and wants to be thought a chief ; but he is so hard up, poor fel- low, that they do not look upon him as such. When the Blood Indians came on ceremony, he, of course, was hoisted, diflei-ent -vobos or 31- these, smolving a while, xA'ing the the row lling and in every y fcAV of ecially in Lvc uilmit- i2 these is ,1-ade with ne of his ell un(k'r ve or six s shoulder before he land rings lie is a ►pea ranee, hii^h. lie in a pair mention d to none He is one and wants , poor fel- h. When oursc, was BLACKFOOT CHIEF. • thcf I SU than to th trout^ neck liat I I.'lUf^l with able ' ' ■ great c » • #»»w.. ■ "ir ■ ■■ =^.^ • ' *- . ' ""' ■ ' ".. ■V- •'■" . ^ ■-•- C ■.' ■' ^'"- ■ '■ ^^ ♦ . ' , '-'' ■'> H '. ^'^'\.J^- ■''j'-is.,-:. '!^'. M r V . : 'V, - '- i- ^^ ■'= ■ ' - " %-^^ ''";- '- '- ^HS . .'*i^ . , - - r ^, ■■ ' ■ r ^- .'' ■■ * ^^bIkS - .. \^''' r ^ *:■ ; <• •-. *-: >-■""■-■-■! ' " ^flSul ,.•■--:-' -• : • y'-^'" ; ; * ,.,'^' , .• j^~-r^-' -■- , ^HmH '•^"^o^- : ••>'■ " ' - -- ' ' uSmu^B , ' -!'( - . ''^ ■ • j^^- *- ■ Ji'-f' - / ^ ' . -, , ■■: -'' ■'' '-'^^ ^jH - '■ "^ -. ■■ *"'' , . ' 1 « • • - ADVENTUUK.^ IX Tlli: UlTEll MLS.SOUIII. the principal niiin, or at least protended to be so, because, I suppose, ho tliouglit Inniself more like a "white man than any of the others. lie funned the order of march to the fort. Ilis dross consisted of a pair of old duck trousers, an old vest, and a piece of old calico for a neckerchief, but not a rag in the shape of a shirt or hat had ho. His appearance was too much for me : 1 laughed till I set mostly all the others off, and it was with great difficulty wo composed ourselves, and were able to receive them with the dignity becoming such great men." 91 28 WRECK OF IHEl'ORFARSHIRE STEAMBOAT. c *!i5i;; I m Hk I HE name of Grace Darling has at- Ij^ TrKcyJ tained a wide celebrity ; but we doubt whether the fearful scene in which that heroic girl acted so conspicuous a part, is so generally known. It was at early dawn, one September morning, 18o■':> wre( ^ '?;.■ "■ ■,■' •' tool< ■' *• '• ' • - ■ ' - • ''-i:- ■ ,,*:>;, ncv( ' .--■**?'" ' ■ :--v, ■: ■ .;;- ' ,', "' ■ erti( - "; - '-fU^, , '4 . " "" : ;■ ~.\*^; ■ ' tV ■- ^'.1 . ^ ,, the ,' '■•' y^'H'-.' the ■'■' , ' ' - ■ '^ - -^^ ' ;.;. , .-.v^vy'- G bra\ ■ ; . > .'■•*' '-r ■■>■' ■ ''■■ .''i ufai ' '" ' ' ^' ' *.' 1 ■^■. -, -.' ligh ■ ', ;- ■, . ■.■. ■v-;'--- ;';- '^-^ ■' ' "' '■ ' - ■ ^ ]mn( ■ i^' ■, ^ - .■ . • ■' ^' '/ and ;^ ■•"'■- y-.'''^'r'"t':^ :*:*> '.v;^. I :? ■ ■ " ' . thre . .-..''. ■ ,• ' / : ■ >■ ■ ' , , y' • ,« , , WRECK OF THE roUFAUSniIlE STEAMIIOAT. 329 pierced her tinibers. Soon after the first shock, a trcuicndous wave lifted the stctnnboat from the rock, and let her fall again with such violence as fairly to break her in two pieces. The after part, containing many passengers was instantly carried away, and all upon it perished ; the forepart remained fixed upon the rock. The survivors, only nine in number — five of the crew and four passengers, remained in this dread- ful situation until day-break, when they were seen by the family at the light house. Grace Darling was then about 22 years of age. Filled with pity for the condition of those on the wreck, she urged her father to launch the boat. She took one oar and her father took the other. She had never rowed before ; but by the most determined ex- ertions amid the furious sea, she succeeded in aiding the boat to the rock, and in taking off the survivors of the wreck. All were landed safely at the light-house. Grace needed no reward but the approval of her own brave heart. But the news of her heroic deed spread afar, and strangers came to visit her at the lonely light-house. They showered gifts upon her, and seven hundred pounds were raised by public subscription and presented to her. Her death took place about three years after the wreck of the Forfarshire steai»er, H THE CROCODILE BATTERY. c LATE English traveller relates the following stirring adven- tures and singular exploit : In the summer of 1846, when every body in England was crazy with railway giun- bling, I was sojourning on the banks of the llohan, a small stream in one of tlie northwestern provinces of India. Here I first became acquainted with the Mug- ger, or Indian Crocodile. I had often before leaving England, seen, in museums, stuffed specimens of the animal, and had read in "Voyages and Travels," all Borts of horrible and incredible stories concerning them. I had a lively recollection of Water ton riding close to the water's edge on the back of an American cayman, and I had a confused notion of sacred crocodiles on the banks of the Nile. I always felt more or less inclined to regard tlie whole race as having affinities with Sin- bad's "roc," and the wild men of the woods, who only refrained from speaking for fear of being made to work. My ideas respecting the natural history of crocodiles w Q O O O W >■ H H bd "rfiy/'f/'' //(/"' THE CllOUODILE BATTERY. 333 were in this stage of development wlicn, one day, while paddling up the Rohan, I saw what appeared to be a half-burned log of wood Ijing on a sand-bank. I pad- dled close up to it. To ray astonishment, it proved to be a huge reptile. The old stories of dragons, griffins, and monsters, seemed no longer fables ; the specula- tions of geologists concerning, mososaurians, hi/lwsau- rians, and 2Ji(^^^o^^ui'ians, were no longer dreams. There, in all his scaly magnificence, was a real saurian, neai'ly eighteen feet long. For a while I stood gazing at this, to me, new fellow-citizen of the world, and speculating on his mental constitution. The monster was, or », ^tended to be, asleep. I wondered if he dreamt. • ^?hat his dreams or reveries might be about ; poooibiy he was dreaming of the same old world with which I had associated him — possibly of the fish who were swimming in the waters below : or, he might be thinking of the men and women he had swallowed in the course of his existence. There was a snort ; perhaps that was occasioned by the bugles and heavy brass ornaments which had adorned the limbs of some Hindoo beauty he had eaten, and which were lying heavy and indigestible on his stomach. But presently the brute lay so still, and seemed so tranquil and placid in his sleep, thnt it was difiicult to imagine him guilty of such atrocities. He did not appear to be disturbed by re- morse, or the twitchings of a guilty conscience : it may have been all a slander. I felt so kindly disposed towards him, that I could not imagine it possible that if awake he would feel disposed to eat me. Let us see ! 80 making a splash with my paddle, I wakened the sleeping beauty. He instantly started up, and opened, i 334 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. C I3» "what appeared — what indeed proved to be — an cnlargec^ raan-tvap ; disclosin;:; a red, slimy cavern within, fringed with great conical fangs. He closed it with a snap that made rac shudder, and then plunged into the watci', his eyes glaring with hate and defiance. Some days after I had this new acquaintance, I was sitting at home talking with my brother, when a native woman came crying and screaming to the bungalow door, tearing her hair out in handfuls ; she got down on the veranda floor and struck her head against it, as if she really meant to dash her brains out. A croAvd of other women stood at a short distance, crying and lamenting as if they were frantic. What was the mat- ter ? Half a-dozcn voices made answer in a discordant chorus, that while the poor woman was washing her clothes b}' the river side, her child — an infant about a year old — had been seized and swallowed by a Mugger. Although convinced tliat aid was now impossible, we took our guns and hastened to the spot where the acci- dent happened ; but all waii still there, not a wavelet disturbed the surface of the stream. A small speckled kingfisher was hovering overhea(', as if balanced in the air, with its beak bent down on its breast, watching the fish beneath ; presently it darted like an arrow into the water ; returned with an empty bill, and then went off, with its clear, sharp, twittering note, as if to console i self for the failure. One day I was sitting on the high bank of the river, taking snap shots Avith my gun at the large fish who were every now and then leaping out of the water. A fivourlte spaniel was bringing a fish out of the water that I had hit. It had swam already half way across Tin-; CROCUDILE IJATTEllY. 335 tho stream, when the water about six yards below her became suddenly disturbed ; and, to my horror, up started tlie head and open jaws of an enormous croco- r had seized the kid. He was dashing across, in a zig-z.ig direction, dov.n the stream. I ran after hiin ;i.s fast a;; [ could ; and paying out the cord from the reel, when I found it impossible to keep up with him. On reaching a place where the banks were steeper than usual, he came to a stand still. I got on the top of the bank, and commenced hauling in the rope. I did not, however, venture to lift the skin out of the water, for fear of disturbing hira, until the coolies with the battery had time to come up. This was a very anxious time ; for, if the Mugger had shifted his quarters before they came up, a fresh run with him would have ensued, with the chance of his breaking the uo PERILOUS ADVENT UKES. wires witk his teeth. After a while I heard the coolits approaching, and my brother scolding them, and urging them to hasten on. Just as their heads appeared •above the bank, the foremost coolie tripped his foot and fell — I groaned with disappointment — pre- sently, my brother came along with them, and brought the battery to my feet ; a good deal of the acid had been spilt, but, with the aid of a bottle of fresh acid we had brought along Avith us, wo soon got the battery up to the requisite power. Every thing being now in order, I commenced pulling up the rope with the wire. I proceeded as cautiously as possible for fear of dis- turbing the Mugger ; but, in spite of all ray efforts, the inflated skin, in coming up the bank, dislodged some loose pieces of earth, and sent them splashing into the water. Fortunately, however, the Mugger had made up his mind to digest the kid where he was. I could not help chuckling when I at length got hold of the ends of the wires. While my brother was fastening one of them to the battery, I got the other ready for completing the circuit. The Mugger all the while lying still at the botro-n of the nulla with, most likely, a couple of fathoms o'i water over his head, unconcious of danger, and little dreaming that the two-legged creatures on the bank had got a nerve communicating with his stomach, through which they were going to send a flash of lightning that would shatter his scaly hulk to pieces. Every thing being how ready, I made the fatal con- tact. Our succ(\ss was complete ! We felt a shock, as if something had fallen down the bank — a mound of muddy water rose, with a muffled, rumbling sound, and ■\^^ X couia of the sterling ady for 3 while likely, oncioua -legged i licating oing to s scaly ;al con- lock, as und of id, and < II o SIDHOO'S MUGGER. THE CUOCODILE BATTERY. 348 then burst out too a column of dark smoke. A splash- ing and bubbling succeeded, and then a great crimson patch floated on the water, like a variegated carpet pattern. Strange-looking fragments of scaly skin wer picked up by the natives from the water's edge, aift brought to us amidst a very general rejoicing. Tdt; exploded Mugger floated down the stream, and the current soon carried it out of sight. We were not at all sorry, for it looked such a horrible mess that Tt» felt no desire to examine it. Our sense of triumphant satisfaction was, hu»\rever, sadly damped about a week afterward, when we received the mortifying announcement, that Sidhoo's Mugger was still alive, and on his old beat, apparently urui- jured. It was evident that we had blasted the wrong Mugger ! We consoled ourselves with the reflectioa, that if he were not Sidhoo's murderer, it was very likely he was not wholly innocent of other atrocities, and therefore deserved his fata. Of course it was impossible to rest while Sidhoo's Mugger remained alive, so we were not long in prepa- ring for a second expedition. This time we took the precaution of not charging the battery until we wcro certain that the bait was swallowed. The acid, diluted to the necessary strength, was, therefore, carried in one of those brown earthenware jars c?ll,'d gray-beards, which had come out to us Cull of Gleiilivet whiskey We commenced dragging the kid up the stream, as before ; but, having walked more than a mile without getting a bite, we were getting rather disheartened, and sat down to rest, struck a light, and smoked a cheroot. Hall laid down, having manufactured an MM 344 PEllILOUS ADVENT UllES. c % impromptu easy chair out of his coil of rope, with the inflated goat-skin placed above it. My brother was not long in imitating his example, and I laid down under the shade of some reeds, near to the water's ^ge. The heat was oppressive, and we were discuss- ing the probability of getting a bite that day, and lamenting that we had not brought some pale ale along with us, when, all at once, I got a sharp ^>1'^^'^ on the leg, while my brother came spinning down the bank like a teetotem — a companion picture to Hall, who was revolving down the opposite bank. The ropes and skins went rushing down the nulla at a tremendous pace. As soon as we recovered from the laughter into which wo were thrown by this droll contretemps, wo set off" in pursuit, guided by the track which the inflated skins made in the water. On they went, dashing from side to side, as they had done in our first attempt. On coming to a place where the nulla made a sharp turn, they stood still under the high bank, on the inner curve of the bend. It unfortunately happened that the bank, near to which the skins were floating, was too precipitous for us to get near them, without start- ing the Mugger from his present position. With much labour, we detached some loose sods from the top of the bank, and sent them with a loud splash into the water, directly over where we imagined him to have taken up his quarters. Tbis had the desired effect, for the skins began to move slowly down the stream, as if the Mugger were crawling leisurely along the bottom. TiCaving my brother with the coolies in charge of the battery, I ran on to where the bank was more THE CROCODILE BATTERY. 845 and that ;, was start- much ;op of to the have set, for tream, ig the shelving. By good luck, the stream was rushing up,* after its sudden sweep, and sent a strong current against this bank. I had not waited many minutes, before the skins came floating round the corner, to where I was standing. I seized the one to which the wire was attached, desiring my brother to charge the batter}^ and bring it down. This he did much sooner than I could have expected ; for, as the battery was now empty, one coolie was able to carry it on his head, while my brother took the jar of acid in his hand. It was evident from the motion of the other skin in the water that the Mugger was still moving — so no time was to be lost. I made the connection with the battery with one of the wires ; in another instant the circuit was complete, and the Mugger's doom sealed. There was a momentary pause — owing, I suppose, to some slight loss of insulation in the wires — then came the premonitory shock, then the rumble, the smoke, and the sparks ; and a great bloated mass of flesh and blood rose to the surface of the water. Hall called out to us to drag it ashore, and see whether we could get any trace of poor Sidhoo. We tried by means of a bamboo pole to pull it to the bank, but the glimpse we got ot it as it neared was so unutterably disgusting, that wo pushed it off again, and allowed it to float away down with the current. That this was Sidhoo's Mugger, there could be no doubt ; for he was never seen or heard of in the neighbourhood again. '' C pi, 0^ SHIPWRECK AT KING'S ISLAND. ?^^N the 20th of April, 1849, the ship Cataraque, Cap- tain C. W. Findlay, sailed from Liverpoool, having on board 360 emigrants, and a crew, including two doctors, of forty-six souls. The emigrants were chief- ly from different parts of England. On the 3d of August, about 7 o'clock in the evening, in consequence of a tremendous gale, the ship was hove to, and con- tinued lying so until the middle of the afternoon of the next day, when she struck on a reef on the west coast of King's Island, at the entrance of Bass' Straits. Immcdiatclv after the vessel struck, it was ascer- tained that she had four feet of water in the hold. A fearful scene of confusion ensued. The passengers attempted to rush upon deck, and many succeeded, until the heaving of the vessel knocked down the lad- ders, when the shrieks of those below, who anticipated destruction, were awful. The crew was employed in helping up the passen- gers, and three hundred were on deck when the vessel began breaking up. The day dawned. The stern of the vessel was found to be driven in, and many bodies r/ a. c ft r. > > > c ft m\, 1849, que, Cap- lay, sailed dI, having (migrants, uding two r-six souls, ivere chief- it parts of the 3d of nsequenee and con- 3on of the west coast raits. vas asccr- hold. A passengers succeeded, n the lad- nticipated he passen- the vessel e stern of my bodies %» c c ligh =■ peri " " ' -if "* ■ . wer nea •; %.. - ' - I r . - . 4^ . .J ' ' SHIPWRECK AT KING S ISLAND. 349 were seen floating round the ship. About two hundred of the passengers and crew held on to the vessel, al- though the sea was breaking over her, and every wave washed some of them to a watery grave. Things con- tinued in this condition until four in the afternoon, when the vessel parted amidships, and between eighty and a hundred persons were thrown into the waves. Thus the insatiable sea swaUowed its prey piecemeal. About five the wreck parted by the fore-rigging, and so many were thrown into the ocean, that only seventy persons were left in the forecastle, they being lashed to the wreck. Even these were gradually diminished in number, some giving out from exhaustion, and others anticipating fate by drowning themselves. When the next day dawned, but thirty persons were loft alive, and these were almost exhausted. The sea was making a clean breach into the forecastle, the deck of which was rapidly breaking up. Parents and children, husbands, and wives, were seen floating round the vessel, locked in the last embrace. Soon after day- light the vessel was entirely broken up, and out of 423 persons who had been on board the vessel, only nine were saved by being washed on shore, and these were nearly exhausted. O ADVENTURE AND EXPLOIT OF TWO GUIDES. HRISTOPHER CAR- SON and Alexander Go- dey accompanied Colonel Fremont in his exploring expedition, across the plains and mountains to the Pacific, acting as guides and hunters. They were distinguished for their daring, skill, and hardihood, and on every occasion displayed their in- domitahle character. , One of their exploits is thus recorded by Col. Fre- mont, in Lis very interesting "Narrative: — " In the afternoon we were surprised by the sudden appearance '.u the camp of two Mexicans — a man and a boy. The name of the man was Andreas Fuentcs ; and that of tho boy (a handsome lad, 11 years old,) Pablo Hernandez. They belonged to a party consist- ing of six persons, the remaining four being the wife of Fucntes, and the father and mother of Pablo, and Santiago Giacomo, a resident of New jNIoxico. With a cavalcade of about thirty horses, they had come out from Puebla do los Angeles, near the coast, under the guidance of Giacome, in advance of the great caravan, (350) TWO CAR- nder Go- ;I Colonel exploring •OSS the ntains to ctiiig as ii-s. They shed for kill, and their in- Col. Frc- e sudden man and Fuentcs ; }ars old,) Y consist- the wife ablo, and AVith a come out mder the caravan, I KIT CARSON. n O Jv* i ^ c t a s c S c b w b< al '■^ - ■ ^t-r ■ Ii ' '* It of Ir ac ar m of f* se ;' su 3f th ini ac su shi for ' wa i W] ADVENTURE AND EXPLOIT OF TWO GUIDES. 353 in order to travel more at leisure and obtain better grass. Having advanced as far into the desert as was considw-.ed consistent with their safety, they halted at the ArchUette, one of the customary camping grounds, about 80 miles from our encamp^nent, where there is a spring of good water, with sufficient grass; and con- cluded to await there the arrival of the great Caravan. Several Indians were soon discovered lurking about the camp, who, in a day or two after, came in, and, after behaving in a very friendly manner, took their leave, without awakening any suspicions. Their deportment begat a security which proved fatal. In a few days afterwards, suddenly a party of about one hundred Indians appeared in sight, advancing towards the camp. It was too late, or they seemed not to have presence of mind to take proper measures of safety ; and the Indians charged down into their camp, shouting as they advanced, and discharging flights of arrows. Pablo and Fuentes were on horse guard at the time, and mounted according to the custom of the country. One of tho principal objects of the Indians was to get pos- session of the horses, and part of them immediately surrounded the band ; but, in obedience to the shouts dF Giacome, Fuentes drove the animals over and through the assailants, in spite of their arrows ; and, abandon- ing the rest to their fate, carried them off at speed across the plain. Knowing that they would be pur- sued by the Indians, without making any halt except to shift their saddles to other horses, they drove them on for about sixty miles, and this morning left them at a watering place on the trail called Agua de Tomaso. Without giving themselves any time for rest, they hur- 30* 354 PERILOUS ADVKNTUUKS. O ricd on, hoping to meet tlic Spanish Caravan, when they discovered my camp. I received them kindly, taking them into my OAvn mcs3, and j)romiried them such aid as circumstances might put it in my power to give. April 2.5. — "\Vc loft the river abruptly, and, turning to the north, regained in a fcAV miles the main trail (which had left the river sooner than ourselves,) and continued our way across a lower ridge of the moun- tain, through a miserable tract of sand and gravel. We crossed at intervals the broad beds of dry gullies, where in the season of rains and melting snows there would be brooks or rivulets ; and at one of these where there was no indication of water, were several freshly- dug holes, in which there was water at the depth of two feet. These holes had been dug by the wolves, whose keen sense of smell had scented the water under the dry sand. They were nice little wells, narrow, and dug straight down, and we got pleasant water out of them. Beyond the first ridge, our road bore a little to the cast of north, towards a gap in a higher line of moun- tains ; and, after travelling about twenty-five miles, we arrived at the Agua de Tomaso — the spring where the horses had been left ; but, as we expected, they were gone. A brief examination of the ground convinced us that they had been driven off by the Indians. Car- on and Godey volunteered with the Mexican to pursue them ; and, well-mounted, the three set off on the trail. At this stopping place there were a few bushes and very little grass. Its water was a pool ; but near by was a spring, which had been dug out by Indians or ADVENTURE AND EXPLOIT OF TWO GUIDES. 355 hen they /•, taking sucli aid rrive. , turning lain trail vcs,) and lie moun- I gravel. y gullies, oNvs there cse where 1 frcshly- dcpth of le wolves, iter under rroAV, and ter out of tile to the of moun- niilcs, Ave wliere tlic tlicy Avevo convinced ns. Car- lo pursue the trail, ushes and It near by Indians or travellers. Its Avater Avas cool — a great refreshment to us under a burning sun. In the evening Fucntes returned, his horse having failed ; but Carson and Godey had continued the pursuit. In the affornoon of the next day, a Avar-Avhoop Avaa heard, such as Indians make Avhen returning fi;om a victorious enterprise ; and S(^on Carson and Godey appeared, driving before th.m a band of horses, recog- nised by Fucntes to be part of those they had lost. Tavo bloody scalps, dangling from the end of Godey's gun, announced that they had overtaken the Indians as Avell as the horses. They informed us, that after Fuentos left them, from the failure of his horse, they continued the puisnit alone, and towards nightfall entered the motintains, into whicli the trail led. After sunset the moon iravo lii!;ht, and thev followed the trail by moonshine until late in the night, Avhen it entered a narrow defile, Jind was difficult to follo-w. Afraid of losing it in the darkness of the defile, they tied up their horses, struck nc fire, and lay doAvn to sleep in silence and in darkness. Here they lay from midnight till morning. At dayli_ii;ht they resumed the pursuit, and about sunrise discoveved the horses ; and, immediately dismounting and tying up their OAvn, they ci'ei)t cau- tiously tn a visiu'' m'.nind which intervened, from the crest of which they perceived the encampment of four lodges close by. They proceeded quietly, and had got Avithin thirty or forty yards of their object, Avhen a movement among the horses discovered them to the Indians ; giving the Avar-shout they instantly charged 356 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. I," 'I into the camp, regardless of the number which the four lodges would imply. The Indians received them with a flight of arrows shot from their long bows, one of which passed through Godey's shirt collar, barely missing the neck ; our men fired their rifles upon a steady aim, and rushed in. Two Indians were stretched on the ground, fatally pierced with bullets ; the rest fled, except a lad that was captured. The scalps of the fallen were instantly stripped off"; but in the process, one of them, who had two balls through his body, sprung to his feet, the blood streaming from his skinned head, anc' tered a hide- ous howl. An old squaw, possibly his mothe'* stopped and looked back from the mountain side she was climb- ing, threatening and lamenting. The frightful spec- tacle appalled the stout hearts of our men ; but they did what humanity required, and quickly terminated the agonies of the gory savage. They were now masters of the camp, which was a pret'y little recess in the mountain, with a fine spring, and apparently safe from all invasion. Great preparations had been made to feast a large party, for it was a very proper place for a rendezvous, and for the celebration of such orgies as robbers of the desert would delight in. Several of the best horses liiid l)cen killed, skinned, and cut up; for the Indians iving ill mountains, and only coming in the plains to rol) and murder make no other use of horses than to cjit tlum. Large earthen vessels were on the fire, boiling and stewing the horse beef; and several baskets, containing fifty or sixty pairs of moccasins, indicated the presence or expectation of a considerable party. -J .• i ADVENTURE AND EXPLOIT OF TWO GUIDES. 357 the /owr f arrovrs through oar men ished in. I, fatally lad that , instantly , who had the hlood d a hide- r. stopped (vas climb- itful spec- It they did nated the w masters jss in the safe from st a large endezvous, )ers of the est horses he Indians plains to es than to the fire, al baskets, indicated ble party. They released the boy, who had given strong ovidenco of the stoicism, or something else of the savage charac- ter, in commencing his breakfast upon a horse's head as soon as he found he was not to be killed, but only tied as a prisoner. Their object accomplished, our men gathered up all the surviving horses, fifteen in number, returned upon their trail, and rejoined us at ourxamp in the afternoon of the same day. They had rode about 100 miles in the pursuit and return, and all in thirty hours. The time, place, object, and numbers considered, this expedition of Carson and Godcy may be considered among the boldest and most disinterested which the annals of western adventure, so full of daring deeds, can present. Two men, in a savage desert, pur- sue day and night an unknown body of Indians into the defiles of an unknown mountain — attack them on sight, without counting numbers — and defeat them in an instant — and. for what ? To punish the robbers of the desert, and to avenge, the wrongs of Mexicans whom they did not know. I repeat: it was Carson and Godey who did this — the former an A7)2erican, born in the Boonslick county of Missouri, the latter a Frenchman, born in St. Louis — and both trained to Vfestern enterprise from early life. I DESTRUCTION OF AN EAST INDIAMAN , BY FIRE. ... . HAT more terrible can be imagined than a ship laden with human beings on fire while at sea ? The alterna- tive is to be burned or drowned. On every ^.ide death stares the unfortu- nate wretches in the face, and even their earnest prayers to heaven avail them not. , , , ., ,, ■ « The burning of the large East Indiaman, the Kent, in the Bay of Biscay, although not so great a disaster as many otliors in the annals of the ocean, had many fearful features. The ship had 641 persons on board at the time of the accident. The fire was first disco- vered hi the hold during a storm. An officer on duty finding that a spirit cask had broken loose, was trying to secure it, when a lurch of the ship caused him to drop his lantern, and in his eagerness to save it, he let go the cask, which suddenly stove in, and the spirits communicating with the flame, the whole place was soon in a blazo. Hopes of subduing the fire were at first entertained, but heavy volumes of smoke and a pitchy smell told that it had reached the cable-room. The captain then ordered the decks to be scuttled, to admit water. This was done, several seamen being MAN nagined 1 beings alterna- led. On unfoitn- ,nd even ^en avail le Kent, disaster id many n board st disco- on duty lS trying 1 him to t, he let e spirits [aoe Avas •were at e and a -room, scuttled, en being c ■;<', 'Vr'' r*'.-.. 4 DESTRUCTION OF AN EAST INDIAMAN HY FIRE. 361 suffocated by the smoke while executing the order. But now danger appeared in another shape. The sea rushed in so furiously that the ship was becoming water-logged, and fears were entertained that she would go down. Between six and seven hundred human beings were on deck by this time. Many were on their knees, praying for the aid of heaven. Some shrieked ; others fainted ; while some old, stout-hearted sailors seated themselves directly over the powder magazine, expecting an explosion every moment, and thinking thus to put a speedier end to their torture. In this time of general despair, the fourth mate thought to send to the foremast, hoping that a friendly sail might be in sight. The man at the fore top looked round him. It was a moment of intense anxiety. The fire was rapidly gaining upon the ship, and the sea was dashing and foaming on every side. Suddenly the sailor shouted, " A sail, on the lee-bow !" Three loud cheers burst from those on the deck, for they now con- sidered themselves safe. Signals of distress were hoisted, and the minute guns were fired continuously. The vessel in sight proved to bo a brig. For about a quarter of an hour, the crew of the Kent doubted whether their signals were per- ceived ; but after a period of dreadful suspense, they saw the British colours hoisted, and the brig making towards them. The crew of the Kent then got the boats ready. The first was filled with women-passen- gers and officers' wives — and was lowered into a sea so tempestuous as to leave small hope of their reaching the brig ; but they succeeded in getting safely aboard. After the first trip it was found impossible for the in 362 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. boats to come alongside of the Kent, and tlie Avomen and children suffered dreadfully in being lowered over the stern into them by means of ropes. At length when all had been removed from the burning vessel, but a few, who were so overcome by fear as to refuse to make the attempt to reach the brig, the captain (][uitted his ill-fated vessel. The flames which had spread along her upper deck, now mounted rapidly to the masts and rigging, lighting up the heavens to a great distance. One by one her stately masts fell over her sides. By half-past one in the mornin^^, the fire reached the powder magazine ; the expected explosion occurred, and the burning fragments of the vessel were thrown high in the air, and strewed in every (lir(!Ction. The brig Avas named the Cambria, was commanded by Captain Cook, and was bound to Vera Cruz. She made all speed for the nearest port, whicli was Ports- mouth, and arrived there safely on the 3d of March, 1825. Fourteen of the poor creatures left on the Kent, were rescued by another ship, the Caroline, on her passage from Alexandria to Liverpool. Thus were hundreds of people saved from a dreadful death by the providential approach of a friendly vessel. The energy and devotion of the captain of the Kent cannot receive too much praise. women eel over length vessel, ) refuse captaii) ich had pidly to 51 IS to a fell over tlic firo !X plosion 5?el were lirection. fi mandcd iz. She IS Ports- March, he Kent, , on her lus ^verc ih by the :e energy t receive TvnoinsE. ADVENTURES IN THE TYROL. EALTIIY Enp;lishmcn and Frenchmen Avho have lei- snrc, frequently visit th wild region of the Tyrol, and engage in its luudy and invigorating sports. Of those, chamois hunting is the most common as well as the most famous. This ^ S64 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. is attended with the greatest dangers, but these are its charms in the estimation of the daring and resolute. A recent English tourist has given to the public a thrilling account of a hunting adventure in which he Was the "/hief actor. We quote : — We were advancing along the base of the lowest tier of cliff, which had a sort of step of snow running along it about half-way up for some half-a-milc, bounded at one end by an immense mass of screes and precipices, and at the other by a sudden turn of the rock, when Joseph suddenly dashing off his hat and throwing himself pros- trate behind a stone, dragged me down beside him witk a vicelike grasp, that left its mark on my arm for many a day after. Utterly taken aback at the suddenness of my prostration, I lay beside him, wondering at the change that had come over his face ; he was as white as marble, his moustache worked with intense excite- ment, and his eyeballs seemed starting from their sock- ets as he glared at the cliff. Following his line of sight, I glanced upwards, and my eye was instantly arrested by something — it moved — again — and again ! With shaking hand I directed the telescope to the point, and there, at the end of it, hopping fearlessly on the shivered mountain side, scratching its ear with its hind foot, and nibbling daintily the scattered bits of gemsenkraut that sprung up between the stones, stood fearless and free — a chamois ! After watching him with intense interest for some moments, we drew back, scarcely daring to breathe, and, sheltering ourselves behind a large stone, held a council of war. It was evidently impossible to ap- proach him from where we were ; we could not have ADVENTURES IN THE TYRuL. 365 moved ten steps towards him without the certainty of heing discovered; our only chance was to get above him, and so cut him off from the higher ranges. Crawling backwards, we managed to place a low range of rock between ourselves and the cliifs, and then making a wide sweep, we reached their base at some dis- tance from where the chamois was feeding. ., . ' After examining the precipice for some time, we found that the only mode of access to its summit, here some three or four hundred feet above us, was by a sort of ravine, what would be called in the Swiss Alps a cheminee, a species of fracture in the strata, the bro- ken edges of which would give us some foot and hand hold : at its upper termination we could see the end of a small glacier, slightly overhanging the cliff, from which a small stream leapt from ledge to ledge, only alive in the last hour or two of sun-warmth, giving promises, which certainly were faithfully fulfilled, of additional slipperiness and discomfort. But we had no choice ; we had already spent nearly an hour iu our cautious circuit. Our scramble, wherever it took place, would cost us nearly another before we got above our expected prey, and if we hesitated much longer, he might take a fancy to maroh off altogether in search of the rest of the herd. So up we went, dragging ourselves and each other up the wet slippery rocks, getting a shivering " swish" of ice-cold water in our faces QVQxy now and then, till we got about half-way up, when, just as we were resting for a moment to take breath, we heard a tremendous roar, followed by a splintering crash just above our heads, and had the pleasure of seeing the fragments, of some half-a-ton. of 81* 866 PERILOUS ADVENTUllES. ice, which liad fallen from the glacier above, fly out from the shelf of rock under which we were resting, and spin down the rugged path we had just ascended. Thinking that this was quite near enough to be pleasant, and "calculating" that by every doctrine of vliances the same thing would not happen twice in the jiauie half hour, v.e scrambled up as fast as we could before the next ins^talment became due, and at last reached safely the top of the precipice. We certainly had not much to boast of as far as walking went, when wo got there, for the snow and rocks were tumbled about in a very wild manner. If we slipped oft" a rock, we, tumbled waist-deep into the soft, melting snow-drifts, and Avhcn we tumbled on the snow, there way always some lurking rock ready to remind us of his presence by a hearty thump ; how- ever, as we were fairly above the chamois, our excite- ment carried us on. I do not think that Joseph swore once ; w^e found afterwards indeed, to our cost, that in one of his involuntary summersets, he had broken the bottle, and narrowly escaped being bayonetted by the fragments ; however, we did not know it then, and so scrambled on in contented ignorance, until we reached the spot on the clifts to our right, which we had marked as being above our prey. Here, however, we found that it was impossible to got near enough to thr "Ige to look over, as tbc fresh-fallen snow threatened to part company from the rock, and carry us with it, on the slightest indiscretion on our part. Crouching down in the snow, Ave listenci for some hint of our friend's whereabouts, and hud not waited more than a minute when the faint clatter of a stoisc far below convinced /^.^■!..\ \:> TlIK TYKOL. 367 fly out resting, ended. 1 to be trine of :e in the ve could at last 3 far as low and iier. If cop into nbled on ready to p ; how- i' excite- ph swore , that in oken the d by the 1, and so reached niarlccd ve found thr 'go tened to th it, on ing down friend's I minute onvinced ClIAMOlti IIU.NTI.NU. US that lie was on the move : keeping low, we wallowed all ng till we came to where the crest of the cliff, show ing a little above the snow, gave us a tolerable shelter ; carefully crawling to the edge, wc peeped over, and saw, as wc expected, that the gems had shifted his quarters, and as luck would have it, was standing on the snow-bed half way up the clitF, immediately below us. ' . , Trembling, partly with excitement, and partly from the under-waistcoat of half-melted snow we had uncon- sciously assumed in our serpentine wrigglings, we lay and watched the graceful animal below us. lie evi- dently had a presentiment that there was something " n( canny" about the mountain-side ; some eddy had per- haps reached his delicate nostrils, laden Avith the taint of an intruder. With his head high in the air, and his ears pointed forwards, he stood examining — as wiser brutes than he sometimes do — every point of the compass but 308 PKUILOUS ADVKXTURES. the right. One foot was advanced; ■ .lo mjinent m and he would have goii*'; when crack ! close to my ear just ah I wa8 screwing up my nerves tor a long shot, went Joseph's heavy rifle. With u sinking heart, I saw the brute take a tremendous bound, all four hoofs together, arfd then, like a rifle ball, glancing over the bosom of a calm lake, bound after bound carried him away and away over the snow field, and round the corner to our right, before I had recovered my senses sufficiently to take a desperate snap at him. What we said, or felt, or how we got over the face of that cliff*, I know not. A dim recollection of falling stones and dust showering round us — pieces of treach- erous rock giving way in our hands and under our feet, bruising slides, and one desperate jump over the chasm between the cliff" and the snow — and there we were both, standing pale and breathless, straining our eyes for some scarcely expected trace of blood to give us hope. Not a drop tinged the unsullied snow at the place where he had made his first mad bound, nor at the second, nor at the third ; but a few paces further on, one ruby-tinged hole showed where the hot blood had sunk through the melting snow. Too excited to feel any uprising of envy, hatred, or malice against my more fortunate companion, I raced along the white incline, leaving him behind reloading his rifle — which was always a sort of solemn rite with him — and following, without difficulty, the deep inden- tations of the animal's hoofs, I came to where the cliffs receded into a sort of small bay, with its patch of snow on the* same plane with the one I was on, but sepa* I ADVENTURES IN THE TYROL. 869 t m my ear ig shot, jeart, I ir hoofs ver the ied him and the j^ senses f face of f falling ' treach- our feet, le chasm we were our eyes give us be place at the •ther on, ood had atred, or I raced •eloading rite with jp inden- the cliffs I of snow >ut sepa* rated from it by a rugged promontory of cliff and broken rock. Cautiously I scrambled round the point, removing many a stone that seemed inclined to fall and give the alarm to the watchful chamois, and peep- ing cautiously round the last mass of rock that sepa rated me from the snow patrh, I saw the poor brute, standing not more than sixty yards from me, his hoofs drawn close together under him, ready for a desperate rush at the cliff at the first sound that reached him ; his neck stretched out, and his muzzle nearly touching the snow, straining every sense to catch some inkling of the whereabouts of the mischief he felt was near him. With my face glowing as if it had been freshly blis- tered, a dryness and lumping in my throat, as if I had just escaped from an unsuccessful display of Mr. Cal- craft's professional powers, and my heart thud-thud- ding against my ribs at such a rate that I really thought the gems must hear it in the stillness, I raised ray carbine. Once, at the neck just behind the ear, I saw the brown hide clear at the end of the barrel, but I dared not risk such a chance ; and so, stringing my nerves, 'I shifted my aim to just behind the shoulder — one touch of the cold trigger, and as the thin gases streamed off, rejoicing at their liberation, I saw the chamois shrink convulsively when the ball struck him, and then fall heavily on the snow, shot right through the heart. With a who-whoop ! that might have been heard half way to Innspruck, I rushed up to him ; — one sweep of the knife — the red blood bubbled on to the snow that shrunk and wasted before its hot touch, as if it felt itself polluted, and there laj stretched out IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) £p. 1.0 1.1 Sf 11^ m ^ ■£ III 2.2 S Ui 112.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■• 6" ► V] <^ /2 ^l ^ V Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4S03 # ^ ^\ qv V 4 ^t '^^ 6^ -o" .*, "■^Jas '-O'*' ..^ "% :i: ^^ m.r ^ 370 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. in all its beauty before me the first gems I ever killed — just as Joseph came up, panting, yelling, and jod ling, and rejoicing at my success, without a shade of envy in his honest heart. Now I believe, in all propriety, we ought to have been melancholy, and moralized over the slain. That rich, soft black eye, filming over with the frothy breath of death, and that last convulsive kick of the hind legs, ought perhaps to have made us feel that we had done rather a brutal and selfish thing ; but they did not. This is a truthful narrative, and I must confess that our only feeling was one of unmixed rejoicing. ^^ ^^ I have occasionally moralized over a trout, flopping about amongst the daisies and buttercups, and dying that horible suffocation death of my causing ; but it was never, if I remember right, the first trout I had killed that day. My feelings always get finer as my pannier gets fuller, particularly if it be a warm afternoon, and I have lunched. But as for the unfortunate gems, we rejoiced over him exceedingly ; we shook hands over him ; we sat beside him and on him ; we examined him carefully, minutely, scientifically, from stem to stern. I firmly believed that I could pick him out at this moment from the thousand ghosts that attend the silver-horned Gem- sen Konig, if I had but the good luck to fall in with his majesty and his charmed suite. Joseph's ball had struck him high up on the neck, but had not inflicted any thing like a severe wound. Had we fired on him from below, he would have scaled the cliffs in a moment, and been no more seen, at least by us ; but as he knew that the mischief was above ADVENTURES IN THE TYROL. 871 er killed and jod shade of ; to have n. That iiy breath bind legs, had done J did not. ifess that J, flopping md dying but it was had killed iy pannier noon, and him, he dared not ascend — to descend was impossible ; and so, getting to a certain extent pounded, he gave me the rare chance of a second shot. Lung we sat and gazed at the chamois ; and the wild scene before us — never shall I forget it ! — shut in on three sides by steep and frowning cliffs, in front the precipice, and far, far down, the wild, rocky valleys, divided by shivered ridges, rising higher and higher till they mounted up into the calm, pure snow-range, set m the frame of the jutting promontories on each side of us — looking the brighter and the "holier" from the comparative shade in which we were. Not a sound but the occasional faint " swish" of the waterfall that drained from the snow-bed — not a living thing now but our two selves standing side by side on the. snow. We had killed the third, and there he lay stiffening be- tween us. [oiced over n; we sat carefully, I firmly )ment from rned Gem- 'all in with the neck, ere wound, lave scaled en, at least was above ePANisa cosTux PERILOUS ADVENTURE OF LIEUTENANT SLIDELL IN SPAIN. ^^ lEUTENANT SLIDELL, of the United States Navv, published about twenty-one years since, his first book, entitled, " A Year in Spain." It was pronounced by the British and American Reviews, the most lively, readable, and truthful book of travels which had ap- AbVKNTURE OF LIElJTEiN'ANT SLIDELL. 373 [JTENANT SLIDELL, tatea Navy, twentv-one J first book, Year in pronounced id American nost lively, ch had ap- peared for a long time. It.« description of characters and adventures in Spain, are perfectly graphic, and many of them were of the most thrilling interest. Of the latter description, we will now give a speci men : — The author takes his seat about two in the morninsr in the cabriolet or front part of a diligence from Tarra- gona, and gives many amusing particulars concerning his fellow-travellers, who, one after another, all surren- der themselves to slumber. Thus powerfully invited by the example of those near him, the Lieutenant catches the drowsy infection, and having 'nestled snugly into his corner, soon loses entirely the realities of ex- istence * in that mysterious state which providence has provided as a cure for e' ery ill.' In s>hort, ho is in- dulged with a dream, wliich transports him into the midst of his own familv circle bcvond the Atlantic ; but from this comfortable and sontimciital iia]» he is soon aroused by the sudden stopping of the diligence, and a loud clamour all about him. " There were voices without, speaking in accents of violence, and whose idiom was not of my country. I roused myself, rubbed my C3'cs, and directed them out of the windoAvs. By the light of a lantern that blazed from the top of the diligence, I could discover that this part of the road was skirted by olive-trees, and that the mules, having come in contact with some obstacle to their progress, had been thrown into confusion, and stood huddled together, as if afraid to move, gazing upon each other, with pricked ears and frightened as- lance to the right ha pect. igle gh gav( !'M to the mystery. Just beside the fore-wheel of the 374 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. diligence stood a man, dressed in that wild garb of Valencia which I had seen for the first time in Am- posta : his red cap, which flaunted far down his back, was in front drawn closely over his forehead ; and his striped manta, instead of being rolled around him, hung unembarrassed from one i^ouider. Whilst his left leg was thrown forward in preparation, a musket was levelled in his hands, along the barrel of which his eye glared fiercely upon the visage of the conductor. On the other side the scene was somewhat different. Pepe (the postilion) being awake when the interruption took place, wsis at once sensible of its nature. He had abandoned the reins, and jumped from his seat to the road-side, intending to escape among the trees. Unhappy youth, that he slioull not have accomplished his purpose! lie was met by the muzzle of a musket when he had scarce touched t!ie ground, and a third ruffi.wi appearing at the same moment from tho treacherous concealment of the very trees towards which he was flying, he was effectually taken and brought round into tlio road, where he was made to stretch himself upon his face, as had already been done with the conductor. *-»■ " I could now distinctly hear one of these robbers — for such they were — inquire in Spanish of the mayoral as to the number of passengers ; if any were armed ; whether there was any money in tho diligence; and then, as a conclusion to the interrogatory, demanding La Boha ! in a more angry tone. The poor fellow meekly obcye 1 : ho raised himself high enough to draw a large leathern purse from an inner pocket, and stretching his hand upward to deliver it, said, Toma ADVENTURE OF -UEUTKNANT SLIDELL. 376 garb of e in Am- his back, and his lim, hung ia left leg isket was 5h his eye tor. On different. terruption ;ure. He lis seat to the trees. omplished a musket id a third from tho 8 towards taken and i made to been done • robbers — 16 mayoral !re armed ; ence ; and iemanding oor fellow ^h to draw •cket, and laid, Toma usted, cahallero, pero no me quita usted la Vida! " Take it, cavalier ; but do not take away my life !" The robber, however, was pitiless. Bringing a stone from a large heap, collected for the repair of the road, he fell to beating the mayoral upon the head with it The unhappy man sent forth the most piteous cries foi muerieordia and piedad. He might as well have asked pity of the stone that smote him, as of the wretch who wielded it. In his agony he invoked Jesu Ohriato, Santiago Apostol y Martir, La Virgin del Pilar, and all those sacred names held in awful reve- rence by the people, and most likely to arrest the rage of his assassin. All in vain : the murderer redoubled his blows, until growing furious in his task, he laid his musket beside him, and worked with both hands upon his victim. The cries for pity which blows at first ex- cited, blows at length quelled. They had gradually increased with the suffering to the most terrible ^rieks ; then declined into low and inarticulate moans ; until a deep drawn and agonized gasp for breath, and an oc- casional convulsion, alone remained to show that the vital principle had not yet departed. t " It fared even worse with Pepe, though, instead of the cries for pity, which had availed the mayoral so little, he uttered nothing but low moans that died away in the dust beneath. One might have thought that the extreme youth of the lad would have ensured him compassion : but no such thing. The robbers were doubtless of Amposta, and, being knowft to him, dreaded discovery. When both the victims had been rendered insensible, there was a short pause, and a consultation -n a low tone betweeu tbo ruffians; i . ii 876 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. who then proceeded to execute their plans. The first went round to the left side of the diligence, and, having unhooked the iron shoe and placed it under the wheel, as an additional security against escape, opened the door of the interior, and mounted on the steps. I could hear him distinctly utter a ter- rible threat in Spanish, and demand an ounce of gold from each of the passengers. This was an- swered by an expostulation from the Yalencian shop- keeper, who said that they had not so much money, but what they had would be given willingly. There was then a jingling of purses, some pieces dropping on the floor in the hurry and agitation of the mo- ment. Having remained a short time at the door of the interior, he did not come to the cabriolet, but passed at once to the rotunda. Here he used greater caution, doubtless from having seen the even- ing before, at Amposta, that it contained no women, but six young students, who were all stout fellows. They were made to come down, one by one, from their strong hold, deliver their money and watches, and then lie flat upon their faces in the road. "Meanwhile, the second robber, after consulting with his companion, returned to the spot where the zagal Pepe lay rolling from side to side. As he went towards him, he drew a knife from the folds of his sash, and having opened it, placed one of his naked legs on either side of his victim. Pushing aside the jacket of the youth, he bent forward and dealt him repeated blows in every part of the body. The young priest, my companion, shrunk back shud- dering into his corner, and hid his face within his ADVENTURE OP LIEUTENANT SLIDELL. C77 [Suiting sre the As he folds of his ushing rd and body. shud- lin his trembling fingers ; but my own eyes seemed spell- bound, for I could not withdraw them from the cruel spectacle, and my ears wore more sensible than ever. Though the windows at the front and sides were still closed, I could distinctly hear each stroke of the murderous knife, as it entered its victim. It was not a blunt sound as of a weapon that meets with posi- tive resistance ; but a hissing noise, as if the household implement, made to part the bread of peace, per- formed unwillingly its task of treachery. This mo- ment was the unhappiest of my life ; and it struck me at the time, that if any situation could be more worthy of pity, than to die the -dog's death of poor Pepo, it ^Yas to bo compelled to witness his fate, without the power to aid him. -ur i " Having completed the deed to his satisfaction, this cold-blooded murderer came to the door of the cabriolet, and endeavoured to open it. He shook it violently, calling to us to assist him ; but it had chanced hitherto that we had always got out on the other side, and the young priest, who had never before been in a diligence, thought, from the circumstance, that there was but one door, and therefore answered the fellow that he must go to the other side. On the first arrival of these unwelcome visiters, I had taken a valuable watch which I wore from my waistcoat pocket, and slipped it into my boot : but when they fell to beating in the heads of our guides, I bethought mo that the few dollars I carried in my purse might not satisfy them, and replaced it again in readiness to be delivered at the shortest notice. These precautions were, how- ever, unnecessary. The third ruffian, who had con- 32* 378 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. tinued to make the circuit of the diligence with his musket in his hand, panaod a moment in the road ahead of us, and having placed his head to the ground aa if to listen, presently came and spoke in an under tone to his companions. They stood for a moment over the mayoral and struck his head with the butts of their muskets, whilst the fellow who had before used the knife, returned to make a few farewell thrusts, and in another moment they had all disappeared from around us. " In consequence of the darkness, which was only partially dispelled in front of the diligence by the lan- tern which had enabled me to see what occurred so im- mediately before me, wo were n6t at once sensible of the departure of the robbers, but continued near half an hour after their disappearance in the same situation in which they left us. The short breathings, and the chattering of teeth, lately so audible from within the interior, gradually subsided, and were succeeded by whispers of the females, and soon after by words pro- nounced in a louder tone ; whilst our mangled guides, by groans and writhings, gave evidence of returning animation. " Our first care, when thus left to ourselves, was to see if any thing could be done for our upf'^^'^^^nnate guides. We found them rolling over in the dust, and moaning inarticulately, excepting that the conductor veould occasionally murmur forth some of those sainted names whose aid he had vainly invoked in the moment of tribulation. Having taken down the light from the top of the coach, we found them so much disfigured with bruises and with blood that recognition would have been impossible. The finery of poor Pepe, his silver h sr dl si ADVENTURE OP LIEUTENANT BLIDELL. 379 ith his road 3und as er tone >ver the 3f their le knife, another us. ivas only the lan- 3d so im- )le of the half an ;uation in and the ithin the leded by ords pro- guides, returning ;s, was to ifortnnate dust, and conductor ise sainted le moment from the gured "with ould have his silver buttons an^' his sash of silk were scarcely less dis- figured than his features. There happened to be in our party a student of medicine, who now took the lead in the Samaritan office of binding, with pieces of linen and pocket handkerchiefs, the wounds of these un- happy men." The wounded men were at length placed in a cart, and sent back slowly to Amposta, the mayoral show- ing some signs of returning sensibility, but the unfor tunate Pepe evidently in his last agony. The diligence proceeded on its route, and stopped to breakfast at Vinaroz. The kitchen of the posada at Vinaroz offered a sceno of unusual confusion. The hostess was no other than the mother of Pepe, a very decent-looking Catalan woman, who, I understood, had been sent there the year before by the Diligence Company, which is con- cerned in all the inns at which their coaches stop throughout the line. Sho had already been told of the probable fate of her son, and was preparing to set off for Amposta in the deepest affliction ; and yet her sorrow, though evidently real, was singularly combined with her habitual household cares. The unusual de- mand for breakfast by fourteen hungry passengers had created some little confusion, and the poor woman, in- stead of leaving these matters to take care of them- selves, felt the force of habit, and was issuing a variety of orders to her assistant ; nor was she unmindful of her appearance, but had already changed her frock and stockings, and thrown on her mantilla, preparatory to departure. It was indeed a singular and piteous sight to see the poor perplexed woman changing some 880 PERILOUS ADVKNTUIIKS. 0, iiah that Avoro frying, lost they should bo burnt on one side, adjusting and rcpinning her mantilla, and sobbing and crying all the while. When the man came, how- ever, to say that the mule was in readiness, every thing was forgotten but the feelings of the mother, and she hurried off in deep and unsupprcssed affliction. y- This picture of a mother's affliction mingled with her habitual household cares is singularly touching, and, being drawn from fact, shows us the truth to nature of one of Scott's scenes in the ' Antiquary,' where a similar conflict takes place in the mind of the poor fisherman's wife who had lost her son — an exquisite touch, rthy of the great master that struck it off, and, indeed, only to be effected by a master hand. ' ' We may as well add here the catastrophe of this tragical tale. From information received by the Lieu- tenant, after his arrival in Madrid, it appears that poor Pepe breathed his last about eight hours after the attack, and long before his widowed mother could arrive to close the eyes of her child. The mayoral lingered for about a week, and then shared the fate of Pepe. The three robbers were detected and taken into custody; two of them were townsmen, and all three acquaintances of Pepe, whom they had doubtless murdered to prevent* discovery. We ourselves passed over the scene of the robbery between two and three years after the event : there were two crosses to mark the bloody spot. The mayoral and the zagal of our diligence, the successors of those who had been mur- dered, pointed to the crosses with the mng froid with which Spaniards, from long habitude, contemplate mementos of the kind. The mayoral showed the very advi:ntuuk or lieutenant slidell. 381 place where hU predecessor had been beaten to death. On our expressing horror at the detail ho readily con- curred, though he appeared more indignant at the manner in which tho crime had been committed than at the crime itself. * It is the ugliest thing {lo mas feo) that has been done in this neighbourhood for a long time past. Look you, sir, to shoot a man with a blun derbuss, or to stab him with a knife, is quite another kind of business; but to beat his brains out with a stone is to treat him, not like a Christian, but a dog !' It was evident that a frequent occurrence of such scenes had rendered the mayoral a critic in the art of murder. After his dismal affair with the robbers, the Lieu- tenant pursued his journey to Madrid, meeting witli no adventure of importance, though with a variety of pleasant incidents and characteristic personages, all which he describes with happy minuteness. •' /■-.'-. i ■ *..'*4 .: ' .0 U- .,^,.f M- *A s.* '* .* .'V<1 t i"^ .rf.*. •i '• V V ,5all Mall ;" in the city, Begharmi, not under- was much examined them their 3st and the e A> VENTURES OF DENIIAM li; AFRICA. 397 most immoral race I had met with in the hlack country." After enduring many vicissitudes and dangers, and witnessing at Angala, the last moments of Mr. Tooke, who had accompanied him in his expedition to Loggun, Major Denham returned, on the 2nd of March, to Kouka, where he was attacked with a slight fever ; and, shortly after, received intelligence' of the death of Dr. Oudney, at Murmur. Notwithstanding, how- ever, the disheartening circumstances attending his former excursions, he, on his recovery, joined another expedition against the Begharmies, in the hope of making himself further acquainted with their country ; hut a temporary defeat of the Bornouse, whom he accompanied, rendering it unsafe for him to continue with thorn, he once more returned to Kouka. Denham now returned to England, accompanied hy Captain Clapperton. He was, soon j«fterwards, ap- pointed director-general of Sierra Leone, to which country he proceeded. Denham died at Free Town, in Sierra Leone, on the 9th of June, 1828. * MATITB n BABNOC. 34 CHARLES ▼. VISIT OF MR. FORD TO ST. YUSTE, THE LAST RESIDENCE OF CHARLES V. R. RICHARD FORD, author of the Hand Book for Spain, has given in that work tlie following very entertaining account of his visit to the monastery of St. Yusto to which the great Empe- ror Charles Y. retired (when ho abdicated his throne in favour of his son Philip II.) and where he ended his days. ^ This celebrated convent, the final retreat of Chai-les V., lies on the south-west slope of the Sierra de Vera, dis- tant seven leagues from riacentia, and about a seven hours' ])leasint ride. Once at Placentia, whetiier !Mad- rid or Salamanca be your point, you ought on no account to deny yourself tltis excursion : — VISIT OF MR. lOKD TO ST. YUSTE. 399 TE, THE :s V. author of Spain, has following ount of his rv of St. out Einpe- d (wlien he riiilip II.) ChiivlcsV., A^eva, dis- imt a seven ictlicr ^lad- 110 account Cross the Xerte, and ascend the steep Calzoncs, thence through olives and vineyards to the Vera or valley, Avhich is some nine leagues in extent ; after four leagues of dehesas y matos the road ascends to the left to Pasaron, a picturesque old town of Prout-lik houses, toppling balconies hanging over a brawling, brook. Observe a palace of the Arcos family. The road next clambers up a steep hill, amid fruit-trees of every kind. As we rode on our cheerful companiona were groups of sunburnt daughters of labour, whose only dower was health and cheerfulness, who were carrying on their heads in baskets the frugal dinner of the vine-dressers. Springy and elastic was their san- dalled step, unfettered by shoe or stocking, and light- hearted their laugh and song, the chorus of the sheer gaiety of youth full of health and void of care. These pretty creatures, although they did not know it, were performing an opera ballet in action and costume : how gay their short sai/as of serges red, green and yeljow ; how primitive the cross on their bosoms, how graceful the panuelo on their heads : thus they tripped wan- tonly away under the long-leaved chcsnuts. Now the beautiful Vera expands, with the yellow line of the Badajoz road running across the cistus-clad distance to Miravete : soon the Jeronomite convent appears to the left, nestling in woods about half way up the mountain, which shelters devotion from the wind. Below is the farm 3Iagdalena, where in the worst case the night may be passed ; ascend to the monastery, keeping close to a long wall. This Spanish Spalatro, to which the gout-worn, empire-sick Charles retired to barter crowns fur rosaries away, was founded in 1404, on the site 400 PERILOUS ADVENTUllES. QnEEX MAET, WIFR OP PHILIP H. where a covey of fourteen Gothic bishops had been killed at one fell swoop by the Moors. Charles sent his son Philip (when on his way to England to marry our amiable Mary) to inspect this place, which he had years before noted as a nest for his old age : he himself planned, when in Flanders, the additional buildings, which were erected by Antonio de Villa Castin, and they lie to the warm south-west of the chapel; but on the 9th of August, 1809, dies carhone notanda, two hundred of Soult's foragers clambered up and pillaged VISIT OF MR. FORD TO ST. YUSTE. 401 had been avles sent to marry ch he had le himself buildings, astin, and 3I; but on ,anda^ two A pillaged and burnt the convent, leaving it a blackened, roofless ruin. The precious archives were then consumed, all except one volume of documents, written in 1620, by Fray Luis de S* Maria. This the prior was consulting about some rights disputed by the Cuacos peasants, and seeing the enemy threw it into some bushes. That book he lent us to read ; now it no doubt is lost. Here we met also Fray Alonzo Cavallero, an aged monk, who took the cowl October 17, 1778, and remembered Ponis and his visit. The convent is entered by the walnut-tree under which Charles used to sit, and ■which even then was called El nogal grande. Passing to the Botiea, all the few vases which escaped the French were carried off in 1820, by one Morales, a liberal apothecary, for his own shop in Oarandilla. T?he granite-built chapel, from its thick walls, resisted the fire of the invaders, thus saving the imperial quarter to be finally gutted by the Constitutionalists. A door to the right of the altar opened to Charles's room, whence he came out to attend divine service : his bed- room, where he died, has a window through which, when all, he could see the elevation of the Host. Here hung the (Gloria of Titian, which, in his will, he directed to be placed wherever his body was, and which was moved with it to the Escorial. Philip II., however, sent a copy to S" Yuste which was carried off to Texada by the patriots, in 1823 ■: when the monks returned, they were too poor even to pay for bringing it back. The Ooro Alto was carved in a quaint tedesque style by Rodrigo Aleraan. In a vault below the high altar is the rude chest in which the Emperor's body was kept sixteen years., until removed in 1574, S4* 402 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. He built only four rooms — each, as usual, with large fireplaces, for he was a gouty and phlegmatic Fleming. From the projecting alcoves the views are delicious. At the west end is a pillared gallery, La Plaza del Palacio overhanging a private garden ; and connected with it is a raised archway, el Puente^ by which the Emperor went down. Below is the sun-dial, erected for him by Juanuelo Turriano. He was brought hero by the Emperor, who was fond of mechanical experi- ments. The stone step by which he mounted his horse yet remains, and here he was seated when he felt the first approach of death, as an inscription records. Ho arrived there, Wednesday, February 3, 1557, at one in the afternoon, and died September 21 of the next year, of premature old age, and dropping like the ripe fruit from the shaken tree. He gave the convent nothing but the honour of his company ; his major- domo, Luis do Quixada (who was afterwards killed by the Moriscos, nea.^ Grunada,) having of course, like a true Spanish unjusj steward, stripped the rooms of every thing portable. Philip II. came here again in 1570, and remained two days. He refused to sleep in the room where his father died. He, too, did little for the monks; and when they begged of him, replied, "You never could have had my father here a year without feathering your nest." - The larger pleasure-grounds lay on the other side. Nature has now resumed her sway, yet many a flower shows that once a garden smiled. A myrtle and T; ox edge leads to III cenador de Belem (Bethelem.) This exquisite gem of a cinque cento summer-house remained perfect, until destroyed, like Abadia and Aranjuez, by Soult's anti-horticultural troops. VISIT OF Mil. FOIID TO ST. YUSTE. 403 th large "leming. slicious. laza del >nnected bich the erected rht here 1 experi- bis horse 3 felt the :ds. He , at one the next } the ripe I convent is major- killed by se, like a rooms of again in sleep in { little for replied, re a year ither side. y a flower e and h »^: sm.) This 3 remained anjuez, by CUARLE3 AND TUBRIANU BlIUVRTSt^a TUB MON'ES WITH I'HEIB FUrPETS. Charles lived hero half like a monk and half like a retired country gentleman. Although strictly atten- tive to his religious duties, he amused himself with his flowers, rides, mechanical experiments, and his young son, Don Juan of Austria. The ex-Emperor was sadly plagued by the villagers of Cuacos, who, then as always ill-conditioned, poached his trout in the Garganta, drove away his milk-cows, and throw stones at the future hero of Lepanto for climbing up their chei'ry- trees. His was no morhid, unsocial misanthropy, but a true weariness of the world with which he had done, and a wish to be at rest : he sedulously avoided all allusion to politics. Neither was he in his dotage, although enfeehled in health from gout ; his ambition and passions were subdued, but not his relish for intel- lectual and innocent recreations. He brought with him his old servants, who knew his wants and ways, and whose faces he knew : he had his book, his ride, his hobby, experiments,* and his prayers; ho had * Ono of Charles' amusements was making collections of clocLa and watches, and automaton images, and observing their different 404 TERTLOUS ADVENTURES. friends, some to tell his sorrows to and divide them, others to impart his joys to and double them ; he had the play and prattle of his little boy. Phlegmatic and melancholy he was by constitution, and from the inher- ited taint of his mother ; but the story of his having had the funeral service said over himself while alive is untrue : no record or tradition of the kind existed among the monks. Philip II., who feared his father might repent of his resignation, and wish again to resume the crown, kept a spy here, who daily reported to Secretary Vasquez every minute circumstance. The original letters, once in the Salesas at Madrid, were incorporated by Thomas Gonzalez in a work on this Jiefi/'cida, which unfortunately is not yet printed. The ruin commenced by the French -was completed by the Liberals of Cuacos, who, July 4, 1821, came and stole every thing. They kept horses in the church, and made the Emperor's room a place for silk-worms. E'^cent sequestrians have again destroyed what the poor monks had partially restored, and chaos is come again. Never again will it be the lot of traveller to be wel- comed, like ourselves, by these worthy men, to whom news and a stranger from the real living world was a godsend. The day was passed in sauntering about the ruined buildings and gardens with the good-natured garrulous brotherhood. At nightfall supper was laid for all the monks together at a long board, but the jjrior and procurador had a small table set apart in an alcove, where, "bidden to a spare but cheerful meal, I mot'ons, and surprising the monks ■with these performauoes. In this he was assisted by an attendant named Turriano. ) 5 them, he had itic and e inher- having ile alive existed s father igain to reported ce. The •id, were on this ed. The i by the md stole rch, and k-worms. svhat the } is come o be wel- to whom rorld was ng about i-natured was laid [, but the part in an il meal, I nances. In VISIT CF iMU. rOllD TO ST. YUSTE. 405 sat an honouied guest." As the windows were throw^ wide open to admit the coul, thymo-sccntcd breeze, the eye in the clear evening swept over the bounf sin JOHN PHASKLiir. SUFFERINGS OF A PARTY ON FRANKLl^ S JOURNEY TO THE VOLAR SEA. ^^ F nil pocnca of intense ^^^^^ sufUn-ing undevf^one by ^ travellers those described ^fe- in tlio " Narrative of Franklin's journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea in the years 1819, 20, ~ 21 and 22," are by far the severest we have ever read. While Lioiitonnnt Parry was exploring a passage rUANKUlN S JufllKKY TO illE l>OLAtt SKA 407 across tlio Polar Sea towards the Pacific, Lord, Bathurst conceived it might not only bo serviceable to this intrepid navigator, but desirable for the benefit of geographical and hydrographical science, to ascertain the actual position of the mouth of the Copper mine River and the trending of the shores of the Polar Sea to the eastward of it. With this view, Lieutenant (mow Captain) Franklin was recommended by the Lords of the Admirality as a proper person to bo employed on such a service ; they, at the same time, nominated Dr. Richardson, a naval surgeon, well skilled in natural history, Mr. Hood and Mr. Back, two admiralty mid- Vhipmen (subsequently promoted to the rank of Lieu- toniints), and two steady English seamen, to accompany lilm. This little party embarked on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship, Prince of Wales, the 23d of May, IHIO; and reached Stromness the 3d of June, where four boatmen were engaged to assist their progress up tlie rivers of America: — after a narrow escape from being ^vreckcd on the rocky shores of Resolution island beset with heavy ice, they arrived in safety at York fiictory on the shores of Hudson's Bay, on the 30th of Anpust. Here they immediately commenced pre- paratirns for their long journey ; anfl every possible assistance was afforded by the governor and servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, who furnished them with a boat, provisions, stores, and ammunition, sent forward circular letters to all their posts, directing the superintendents to supply all their wants, and commu- cated frankly such information for their guidance, as materially assisted them in their future proceedings. 408 PKRUM fi ADVr:.VTC'flf>'. The journey into the interior comnienccd at York Fort, where the party embarked on tlio 9th of So[)- tembor, 1819 ; and they arrived at Cumberland House on the 22d of October, the travelling distance by water being about six hundred and ninety miles. Late as the season was. Captain Franklin determined not to remain here, but to set out on a long and perilous expediiion of several hundred miles to Fort Chebcy- wan, near the western extremity of Athebasca lake ; where, by his presence, he hoped to prevent delay in the necessary preparations for their ulterior proceedings. With this view, accompanied by Lieut. Back, on the 18th of January, 1820, he took leavo of Dr. Ricliardsoii, * and Mr. Hood, who were to bring up their baggage in the spring; and after a journey of 857 miles in the very depth of winter, the thermometer frequently at 40°, and sometimes more than 50° below zero, arrived safely, on the 26th of ^larch, at the Fort. As soon as the spring began to appear. Dr. Richard- son and Mr. Hood set out to join their companions who had preceded them to Fort ChebeyAvan. It may readily be supposed, that the return of this season is, in such a dreary, chilling climate, hailed with universal joy. The symptoms of its approach are unequivocal. About the middle of A^ril the flights of geese, ducks, and swans from the southward, indicate the breaking up of the frost ; gentle showers begin to fall ; the whole face of the country is deluged by the melted snow. In a few days the upper grounds are dry, and teem with the fragrant offspring of the new year. " There can scarcely be a higher gratification," says Captain Franklin, "than that which is enjoyed in this country, in witnessing the framklln'.s j«"UUnev to Tin; I'OLAit si;a. 409 ■^■iS=-^^h^*... WILD GSESG. rapid change which takes phicc in the course of a few (lays in the spring ; scarcely does the snow disappear from the ground, before tiie trees arc clothed with thick foliage, the shrul)S open their leaves, and put forth their variegated flowers, and the whole prospect becomes animating." But it also brings its inconveniencics, the first, and most annoying of Avhich, are the clouds of huge full-grown musquitocs, which bursting forth at once, incessantly torment the traveller to a degree un- known even in the tropical regions of the globe. The whole party, with their Indian hunters, having assembled at Chebeywan, set out on the 18th of July for the northward, in the hope that, before the season should expire, they might be enabled to fix their winter quarters at the mouth of the Copper-mine River, and 410 jtEllILOUrf ADVENTURES. to avail themselves of the earliest period of the follow- ing spring to explore the coast of the Polar Sea to the eastward. But so great and so numerous were the difficulties experienced from the scarcity of provisions, and from the impediments in the navigation of the numerous rivers and lakes, on account of the rapids of the one and the shallows of the other, together with the frequent portages, that their progress was exceed- ingly slow and tedious ; and they did not arrive at the spot where it was found necessary to hut themselves for the winter, and which was distant from Cheheywan about 550 miles, before the 20th of August. With regard to the interruptions of the portages, they became more frequent, and the dragging of the boats more fatiguing, in proportion as they advanced to the north- ward ; and thus the sufferings of the people from want of sufficient sustenance were greatly aggravated. It not unfrequently happened that in one day they had to load and unload the canoes, and to transport them and the baggage over five or six of these portages. We cannot, therefore, be surprised that men who, like the Canadian Voyagers, live, when at the Company's forts, entirely on animal food, the daily allowance of which is eight pounds to each man, should be disheartened, and exhibit symptoms of discontent and insubordination, when they found themselves reduced to one scanty meal a day of a few ounces of fish or deer's flesh; and, on some days, unable to procure any food at all. Their disobedience, however, was only transitory, and seems to have ceased with the occasion of it ; and it is due to them to say that their general conduct through- out this perilous and fatiguing expedition was highly franklin's joukney to the polar sea. 411 3 follo^V- iii to the rere the ovisions, I of the apids of ;her with 5 exceed- ve at the lemselvea lebeywan t. With, y became ats more ;he north- rom want ated. It ley had to them and 38. We [), like the ay's forts, of which leartened, irdination, tie scanty 3r's flesh; 'ood at all. dtory, and ; and it is t through- ,yas highly ■i! praiseworthy. A fresh supply of food had invariably the effect of an immediate return of their usual good humour. Captain Franklin, as we before observed, had been anxious to arrive at the mouth of the Copper-mine River during the present season ; but the small pools being frozen over so early as the 25th of August, when the geese were observed to be passing to the southward, and other unequivocal symptoms of the approach of winter beginning to manifest themselves, ho found it necessary to abandon the design. Indeed tlie chief of the hunters declared that the attempt would be rash nnd dangerous, and that, as he considered the lives of all who went on such a journey would be forfeited, he neither would go himself, nor permit his people to ac- company them. They were, therefore, compellea to content themselves for this season with making an excursion to the hea:' of the Copper mine River, in Point Lake, about sixty miles to the northward, merely to satisfy themselves of its size and position. In the meantime, the Canadians were busily engaged in constructing a house for their winter residence, to which they gave the name of Fort Enterprise. It was situated on a rising ground on the bank of a river, and near a lake, surrounded with numerous trees of consid- erable size, some of the pines being from thirty to forty feet high, and tAvo feet in diameter at the base. The banks of the river (to which they gave the name of Winter River) were also well clothed with trees of this description, and enlivened with a profusion of luxuriant mosses, lichens and shrubby plants. The lat. of Fort Enterprize is 64° 28', long. 113° 6' W. 412 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. The last station of the North-West Company is Fort Providence, in lat. 62° 17', long. 114° 9' W. All hands were now employed in laying in a stock of provisions for the winter, consisting principally of rein-deers' flesh frozen, or dried partially by the fire and sun, then bruised with stones and kneaded up with fat or suet into a paste, well known in North America by the name of pemmiean. The rein-deer in this neighbourhood were fortunately abundant, being met with in herds from ten to a hundred ; and Captain Franklin says that, in walking out one day, he estimated the numbers seen by him at not fewer than two thou- sand. Before these animals began to migrate to the southward in search of a milder climate and better sheltered pastures, the hunters were enabled to procure about one hundred and eighty, which were converted into dried meat : to this they added about a thousand white fish, from two to three pounds each, and occa- sionally others of the salmon tribe, trout, pike and red carp. But this stock of provision was barely sufficient for the winter's co:i3umption of the party, including the multitude of Indians and their families who crowded to the rendezvous as soon as the winter had set in. Nor was this the worst. The whole of their ammuni- tion was expended, and their packages of blankets, tobacco, and other articles of indispensable necessity had not come up from the southward. Mr. Back, therefore, volunteered to return to Fort Providence and, if necessary, to Chebeywan, to obtain such supplies as were absolutely necessary, to enable them to proceed. He set out, accompanied by Mr. Wentzel, a clerk of the North-west Company, two Canadians, two Indians is Fort a stock jally of the fire up "with A.merica in this ing met Captain stimated wo thou- te to the ,d better • procure onverted thousancl bud occa- B and red sufficient iding the crowded )t in. ammuni- blankets, necessity Ir. Back, lence and, upplies as ► proceed. , clerk of fo Indians ■*-'■ '1 I ■ ' -,"'-•• »;,v. »*•»-■ ■Jisr I I i'.i 1. 1 AUGUSTUS, THE ESQUIMAUX INTEllPRETEll. franklin's journey to the polar sea. 415 iTER. and their wives, on the 18th of October. This journey on foot, in the depth of Avinter, as far as Chebeywan and back to Fort Enterprize, at which place Mr. Back arrived on the 17th of March, is among the many instances of extraordinary exertion and determined perseverance which this expedition afforded. He thus concludes his interesting Report : — " I had the pleasure of meeting my friends all in good health, after an ab- sence of nearly five months, during which time I had travelled one thousand one hundred and four miles in snow-shoes, and no other covering at night, in the woods, than a blanket and deer-skin, with the ther- mometer frequently at — 40°, and once at — 57° ; and sometimes passing two or three days, with, at tasting food.' We may add that, without this extraordinary exertion of Mr. Back, the expedition would not have been able to leave Fort Enterprize. The party that remained at this spot were not much better circumstanced than Mr. Back had been, at least with regard to the severity of the cold. Mr. Back brought with him two Esquimaux inter- preters whom he found at Fort Providence, where they had arrived from the neighbourhood of Chesterfield Inlet : their names were Tattaneewuck and Useootoeroch — Belly and Ear — but they were commonly called Augustus and Junius — the former could speak a little English. Immediately on their arrival at Fort Enter prize, they set about building a snow house for their residence, which they maintained to be more warm and comfortable than the wooden one already erected. Captain Franklin's description of this singular fabrio recalls to our recollection the many learned and laboured 416 PERILOUS ADVENTUUES. discussions and speculations on the origin and invention of the arch, and inclines us to ask, Where did these poor people, the outcasts of society, separate from the civilized world, and confined to regions of eternal ice and snow ; where did these miserable beings learn the principles and construction, not simply of the arch, but of the perfect, dome, the most difficult of arches ? " The winter habitations of the Esquimaux, who visit Churchill," says Captain Franklin, "are built of snow, and judging from one constructed by Augustus to-day, they are very comfortable dwellings. Having selected a spot on the river, where the snow was about two feet d-'^p, and sufficiently compact, he commenced by tracing out a circle twelve feet in diameter. The snow in the interior of the circle was next divided with a broad knife, having a long handle, into fdabs three feet long, six inches thick, and two feet deep, being the thickness of the layer of snow. These slabs were tenacious enough to admit of being moved about without break- ing, or even losing the sharpness of their angles, and they had a slight degree of curvature, corresponding with that of the circle from which they were cut. They were piled upon each other exactly like courses of hewn stone around the circle which was traced out, and care was taken to smooth the beds of the different courses with the knife, and to cut them so as to give tae wall a slight inclination inwards, by which contri- vance the building acquired the properties of a dome. The dome was closed somewhat suddenly and flatly by cutting the upper slabs in a wedge-form, instead of the more rectangular shape of those below. The roof was about eight feet high, and the last aperture wns shut 1 iivcntion [id these fi'oiu the ernal ice learn tlie arch, but who visit ; of snow, 13 to-day, y selected t two feet jy tracing low in the 1 a broad feet long, thickness tenacious )ut brealc- ngles, and •esponding were cut. ke courses ;raced out, e different as to give ich contri- of a dome, d flatly by tead of the le roof was •e was shut >,v PllANKLtN'S JOURNEY TO TII^. TOLAR SEA. 419 up by a small conieul piece. The wliolc was built from within, and each slab was cut so that it retained its position without rc({uiring support until another was placed beside it, the lightness of the slabs greatly facilitating the operation. When the building was covered in, a little loose snow was throAvn over it, to close up every chink, and a low door was cut through the walls with the knife. A bed-place was next formed and neatly faced up Avlth slabs of snow, Avhich was then covered with a thin layer of pine branches, to prevent them from melting by the heat of the body. At each end of the bed a pillar of snow was erected to place a lamp upon, and lastly, a porch Avas built before the door, and a piece of clear ice Avas placed in an aperture cut in the Avail fur a Avindow. " The purity of llie material of Avhich the house Avas framed, the eie^vince of its construction, and the trans- luconcy of its Avail.;, Avhich transmitted a very pleasant light, gave it an appearance far superioi to a marble buildiiiij, and one mii'ht survey it Avith feelinfi;s some- jvhat akin to those produced by the contemplation of a Grecian temple, roared b}"^ Phidias ; both are temples of art, inimitable in their kinds." It Avas not before the 14th of June that the Indians considered the ioe to have sufficiently bi-oken up in the Copper-mine llivo;', to admit of its being navigated by canoes. By this tliiio their stock of provisions Avas prett}'- nearly exhausted, and it became evident that their future subsistence must depend on the success of the hunters, as they proceeded doAvn the river : these hunters, hoAvever, as the time of departure approached, began to manifest a decided reluctance to proceed. It 420 PEKILOUS ADVKNTfUES. pi;i;u. appeared, upon inc^uii-y, that a i\Ir. Weeks, a clerk of the North AVcst Company, Avho, in his remote retreat had nurtured the anoiout and deep-rooted jealousies ■which prevailed between the tv.'o Companies previously to their recent union, liad })een tampering with them, na;-*rcpresenting the object of the expedition, and the character of the officers employed. It was with the utnio.st difficulty the unfavourable impressions, thus ci'.'aU'd Oil the minds of the Indians, were removed, and even after this had been done, the dread of the Es(juiniaux furnished another obstacle to their proceed- ing. At length, howevci', all difficulties being sur- I FllANKLIN S M VV. ■[n Til]) I'Ol.AK SKA. 421 h ^ L clerk of te retreat jealousies previously nth them, Q, and the 1 -with the ions, thus removed , ead of the ir proceed- being sur- mounted, the Aviioli! pMVty jv.'occcdcd to the Copper- mine River ; which, liko ull those Avhich they had hitherto navigated, was full of rocks, rapids and shoals, and in many places bridged Avitli largo masses of ice. The grassy plains on cither side, however, al)ounded with game, particularly witli that singular little animal known by the name of the musk ox, of which they killed a great number, but all of them lean, and the flesh by no means palatable. The herds of deer and musk oxen nttract great numbers of bears and wolves. The latter is a gregari- ous animal, and so sagacious, as rarely to be caught in any kind of trap. Inferior in speed to the moose and rein-deer, these creatures are snid to have recourse to a stratagem which seldom fails to succeed, in places where extensive plains are bounded by precipitous cliffs. The party had proof of this in more places than one. " Whilst the deer are quietly grazing, the wolves assemble in great numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep slowly towards the herd so as not to alarm them much at first, but when they perceive that they have fairly hemmed in the unsuspecting creatures, and cut off their retreat across the plain, they move more quickly, and with hideous yells terrify their prey and urge them to flight by the only open way, which is that towards the precipice ; appearing to know, that when the herd is once at full speed, it is easily driven over the clifi^, the rearmost urging on those that arc before. The wolves then descend at their leisure, and feast on the mangled carcasses." This stratagem was attempted on Dr. Richardson, musing one cveninir, on the summit of a when sitting )G I o M to P FllANKLLS'rf JOUUNEY TO THE POLXR SEA. 423 WOLF. a precipice, overlooking the Copper-mine river. Hear- ing an indistinct noise beliind him, he looked round, and perceived nine white wolves advancing towards him in a crescent, evidently with the intention of driving him down the steep ; but on his rising and walking towards them, they readily made an opening and let him pass : a poor deer, which was hemmed in at the same time, less bold or less fortunate, was shortly afterwards driven over the precipice. Captain Franklin's original intention was tu return (if he found it necessary to return at all) in as direct a line as the winding of the coast would ad>tiit, to the raouth of Copper-mine River, and thence through the line of woods extending along the Great Bear and Mar- tin Lakes as far as Slave Lake ; but their scanty stock of provisions having been exhausted before they reached the mouth of Hood's River, and the coast holding out 424 PERILOUS advlmltj:?? little hope of an adequate supply at this advanced period of the season, he determined on proceeding up this latter river as far as it was navigable, and then, striking across the barren grounds, to make directly for their late winter-quarters at Fort Enterprize. Their progress however was very soon stopped by the whole river tumbling over a ledge of rock in a magnificent cascade of 250 feet in height, on the other side of which it was found to be too rapid and too full of shallows for the canoes to make any way. It became necessary therefore to prepare for a journey on foot ; and the first step was that of converting the canoes into two of smaller dimensions, ^ enable them to cross the lakes and rivers with which they had reason to believe this portion of the continent was much intersected. Every part of the baggage that could be dispensed with was left on the spot, and two days provision of fresh meat (all that could be carried in addition to the canoes) put up with the rest. ; r ,^f^^ At the end of two days, the course of the river turned so much out of their direct route that they were obliged to quit its banks altogether, and proceed in a straight line towards Point Lake, whose distance was estimated at 140 miles. On the 5th of September, three days only after leaving the river, the party was surprised by the unusual and unexpected appearance of winter, in a heavy fall of snow. From this moment till the 26th of the month, three tedious weeks, they had to struggle against cold and boisterous weather ; to walk through snow sometimes two feet deep, over a country which scarcely produced a shrub for fuel above six inches high ; and to guess their way across an un- i nUNKLIN s jour..\ T 'J 'i 1 V. I'uLAll SEA. 425 known land, unassisted by celestial observations (the sun being constantly hid except on two occasions :) and, to add to their misery they had before them the appall- mg sight of musk oxen, deer, and every ether animal, and even the water fowl, (alarmed at the snow,) hurry ing to the southward with the utmost speed. In this journey of twenty-one days, all the fresh meat which they could procure amounted on]y to five days' con sumption ; the sole resource for the rest of the time being the tripe de roche, a species of lichen which grows on the rocks : even this weed, unpalatable as it was, could not always be found, so that one scanty' meal a day was sometimes all that could be afforc'.ed, and several days were passed without eating at all. Tlie labours of the party in dragging their burdens and themselves through the snow, did not end with the day. Though they had no food to prepare, it- was absolutely necessary to have some little fire to thaw their frozen shoes at night ; and it was no easy task to find, and dig from under ♦he snow, a sufficient quantity of stunted bushes for this purpose. The fatigue and want of food had a very sensible effect on the strength and spirits of the Canadian voyageurs, both of which were painfully noticed to be sinking very rapidly ; yet, encouraged by the officers, the^r endured, for a time, their miseries with as much patience as could be ex pected. At length, however, on finding the line of their route interrupted by frequent lakes, which re- quired them to make circuitous journeys, and seeing no hope of speedily reaching their destined point, they began to despair of their safety, and becoming alike indifferent to promises or throats, seemed to consider 426 PERILOUS ADVENTUllES. themselves as liberated from all control. To add to the misery which stared them in the face, one of the canoes was rendered useless by an accident, and soon after, through the inattention and insubordination of ome of the party, the other was also dashed to pieces, though those who carried it knew, from the course of the Copper-mine River, that it would be essentially necessary to enable them to cross it. - •' " ' ' On the 26th of September the whole party arrived on the banks of this river ; and having killed five small deer, began to congratulate themselves on their good fyrtune in having procured as much fresh meat as, with due care, would serve them till their arrival at Fort Enterprize. The weather too had become mild, and the Canadians considered their misfortunes at an end ; but, alas ! they had not yet begun. In the midst of their joy they forgot that, in their madness, they had deprived themselves of the only means of crossing the river which lay between them and their place of desti- nation. The shores of Point Lake were searched in vain for pines to make a raft. The next expedient was to collect faggots of dried willows, and with those to frame a sort of float ; but this was found an unmanage- able machine in a stream without the assistance of oars or poles. In short, eight whole days mostly of fine weather (and the only fine weather they had,) were consumed in devising means for crossing the Copper mine River. In this hopeless condition, with certain starvation staring them in the face, Dr. Richardson, actuated by the noble desire of making a last effort for the safety of the party, undertook the hazardous enterprise of franklin's journey to the polar sea. 427 add to of the id soon ition of pieces, lurse of entially arrived ve small nv good as, Avitli at Fort lild, and an end ; midst of they had ssing the of desti- rched in iont was those to imanage- le of oars of fine id,) were ! Copper tarvation uated by he safety rprise of swimming across the stream (about 130 yards) with a line attached to his body ; at a time when the mercury in the thermometer stood, in the air below the freezing point, and in the water at 38°. He succeeded in reaching very nearly the opposite bank when, benumbed with cold, he lost the power of moving his limbs, and was observed by his anxious companions to disappear beneath the surface. It may easily be imagined what their feelings were at .this moment. They eagerly dragged him back by the line, and drew him out of the water with little or no hope of restoring animation. By wray^'ing the body in blankets, however, rubbing it and li^ i- before a fire, he was at length restored to life, 0. , might be supposed, remained for some time in a very enfeebled state. No other person of the party could be found to repeat the experiment ; but a kind of basket was at length constructed which, when covered over with a few frag- ments of canvass they had luckily preserved, it was hoped might enable them to pass the river ; but it was capable only of holding one person. In this basket Percy St. Germain, one of the ii-terpreters, first volun- teered to paddle over, carrying with him a line, and happily he succeeded ; it was then drawn back, and a second crossed, and so on until the whole party had crossed over without any serious accident, though their frail vessel was filled with water at every traverse, and generally sunk before it reached the shore. It was noAV the 4th of October, and they were within forty miles of Fort Enterprize ; but the weather had again resumed its severity, t]ie ground was covered with snow. the last morsel of their food was expended, and the whole 428 ri; r. 1 1.0 u 3 a jj \' i:;^; t u iies. K i DR. RICHARDSON. party miserably reduced by their recent scanty fare, and their exertions in crossing the river. Under these circumstances Captain Fnxnklin deemed it expedient to push forward Mr. Back v.'ith three of the voyageurs in search of the Indians, who, it "was hoped, wouhl be found in the neighbourhood of Fort Entci'prize. Tlic following day the remainder mo^cd forwards, and pro- cured a meal of tripe de rocho, which produced, how- ever, such distressing complaintH on some of the party, and reduced them to such a Bt&te of weakness, as to oblige them to leave every thing except their personal baggage ; and oven with this two of the people dropped behind, about the middle of the stcond day's march, utterly unable to proceed. Dr. llicharJson, weak as he was from his late exertion, went back in fiearch of franklin's JOUllXEY TU THE POLAU SEA. 429 mty fare, ider these expedient voyageurs , would be •ize. The , and pro- iced, liow- thc party, less, as to r personal le dropped fa march, i, weak as I search of thrsc tAvo unfortunate men. lie fuund one of them, at the distance of a mile and a half, lying exhausted in the snow, talking incoherently, and evidently in a dying state ; but of the other he could discover no trace. On returning with this information, a halt was made, a fire kindled with a few stunted willows, and every argu- ment used to induce the ablest of the party to endea- vour to bring forward the poor man Avho had fallen, and renew the search for the other ; but they all declared their utter inability ; and, revolting as it was felt to humanity, both were of necessity abandoned to their f^ite. - ,<• .f. -^-u^m-' . . As there was every reason to fear that others of the party would speedily sink under the combined pressure of famine, fatigue, and inclement weather, and as those who were strongest had renewed their threats of throAV- ing down their loads, and pushing with their utmost speed for Fort Enterprize, though they knew not a foot of the way. Dr. llichardson and Mr. Hood generously proposed to halt at the first place that offered a supply of fire-wood, and, with the weak and worn-down of the party, to remain there till assistance should be sent to them from the Fort. To this arrangement Captain Franklin reluctantly consented; but as he had every reason to hope that he should find a depot of provisions at Fort Enterpi'ize, and a band of Indians in the neigh bourhood, according to the arrangement made with Mr. Wentzel, he saw no other means of safety. The English seainan, John Hepburn, whoso willing and attentive conduct on all occasions appears to be above all praise, volunteered to remain behind. *' Their tent," says Captain Franklin, "being se- 430 I'KUILOUri ADVENTURES. curely pitched, a few -willo-ws were collected, and the ammxmition and all other articles deposited, except each man's clothing, one tent, a sufficiency of ammuni- tion for the journey, and the officer's journals. I had only one blanket, which was carried for me, and two pair of shoes. The offer was now made for any of the men, who felt themselves too weak to proceed, to remain witli the officei'S, but none of them accepted it. Michel alone felt some inclination to do so. After wo had united in thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty God, I separated from my companions, deeply afflicted that a train of melancholy circumstances should have demanded of nie the severe trial of parting from friends in such a condition, who had become endeared to mo by their constant kindness and co-operation, and a par- ticipation of numerous sufferings. This trial I could not have been induced tc undergo, but for the reasons they had so strongly urged the day before, to which my own judgment assented, and for the sanguine hope I felt of either finding a supply of provisions at Fort Enterprize, or meeting the Indians in the immediate vicinity of that place, according to my arrangements with Mr. AVcntzel and Akaitcho. Previously to our starting, Peltier and Benoit repeated their promises, to return to them with provisions, if any should be found at the house, or to guide the Indians to them, if any were met." The parting took place on the 7th October, at the distance of about twenty-four miles from Fort Enter- prize ; the party who proceeded with Captain Franklin consisted of eight persons besides himself, of whom two, feeling themselves unable to proceed, left him on the \ rilANlvl.IN S JOUllNKV TO THE POLAU SEA. 431 and the , except [immuni- . I had and two ly of the ceed, to leptcd it. After wo Umighty ' aillicted uld have m friends ed to me nd a p ar- il I could e reasons kvhich ray le hope I at Fort mmediate ngenionts y to our omiscs, to be found m, if any or, at the >rt Enter- Fraiiklin vhom two, im on the \ following day to return to Dr. Richardson ; the next day a third fainted ; and a fourth, unable to go on was sent back ; — but one of them only arrived, (and arrived to add to their misery— it was Michol the Iroquois ;) the other tlu'co were no more hea.a of. With the remaining four Captain Franklin reached the fort on the evening of the 11th, in a state of complete exhaus- tion, having tasted no food for five days, excepting a single meal of tripe de roche. This was not the worst; to their utter sorrow and dismay, and as a fatal blow to every hope by which they had been animated, they found the place desolate — no provisions, no Mr. Back, no Mr. Wentzel, nor any letter from him to point out where the Indians were ! not a trace of any living ani- mal, and the ground covered with a greater depth of snow than it had been in the month of December the preceding year. Recovered from the first shock of so dreadful a dis- appointment, a note was observed in the hand-writing of Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the house on the 9th, and that he had gone on in search of the Indians. Four days after this a messei ger from him brought the exhausted party the woful intelligence that his search had been unsuccessful. Solicitous for the fate which must inevitably await Dr. Richardson and his party ; unable to stir himself, from debility, and the only hunter he had with him falling sick. Captain Franklin's situation may more easily be conceived than expressed ; he rallied his spirits, however, and after collecting some old shoes, scraps of leather and skins with the hair singed off, their only food after reaching tho house, he set out, with two of the Canadians, in 432 pi;!i!i,ii! , Ain ;:Niri!H?!. quest of the Iiuli;;n,'^, hut snoii iuiiiid liini.seU" utterly unable to proceed, and votunied to the house of misery ftiid desolation the following day. Hopeless, however, as in every way, his situation now appeared to be, this g:\llant officer never once uttered a murmur, nor gave himself up to desi)air. He dispatched two of the strong- est to endeavour to find out the Indians, and inform them of their dreadful situation ; and kept the other three, who were reduced to the last extremity, with nimself. Eighteen days were passed in this miserable condi- tion, with no other food than the bones and skins' of the deer which had been consumed the preceding winter boiled down into a kind of soup ; wdien, on the 2i)th October, Dr. Richardson and John Hepburn made their appearance, but without the rest of the party. .. ■ " We were all shocked," says Captain Franklin," on beholding the emaciated countenances of the Doctor and Hepburn, as they strongly evidenced their extreme debilitated state. The alteration in our appearance Avas equally distressing to them, for since the swellings h;id subsided we were little more than skin and bono. T!u> Doctor particularly remarked the se})ulcii:al tone of our voices, which he requested us to make more clui'iful if possible, unconscious that his own partook of t lie same key. ; •" . ,. The nielancholy talc of what had befallen thorn is v.'cll and feelingly told by Dr. llichardson. it appears that, on the first two d:>ys, they liad nothing '..i.atever to eat; that on th-j evening of the third day, Michel, the only surviving man of the four whom Captain Franklin had sent ba«k, arrived with a PRANKhixH :"*. JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA. 433 ' utterly f iiusevy bo^Yovcv, ) be, this lor gave c stroiig- (l inform the otlier litv, >vitli blc condi- Lins of the ng -svintcr the 29th ;iiadc their r uklin," on he Doctor ir extreme ippcavance c s\Ycnings and bone. Icural tone inahe more wn partook en them is 5, they had ning of the of the four rived with a \ hare and a partridge, which enabled them to break their long fast. Another day passed without eating ; Mr. Hood very weak and unwell. On the 11th, Michel brought them part of what he called a wolf, which he said had been killed by a stroke of a deer's horn "We implicitly believed this story then," says Dr. Richardson, " but afterwards became convinced, from circumstances, the detail of which may be spared, that it must have been a portion of the body of Belanger, or Perrault," two of the unfortunate men whom Cap- tain Franklin had sent back, and one or both of whom it was strongly suspected had fallen by the hands of the Iroquois. This man's bad conduct since his return grew daily worse; he absented himself from the party; refused either to hunt or to fetch wood ; and frequently threatened to leave them. Poor Hood was now sinking last ; he was unable to eat the tripe do roche (and they had nothing else,) on account of the constant griping it produced. " At this period we avoided as much as possible con- versing upon the hopelessness of our situation, and generally endeavoured to lead the conversation towards our future prospects in life. The fact is that with the decay of our strength our minds decayed, and we were no longer able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that surrounded us. Each of us, if I may be allowed to judge from my own case, excused himself from so doing by a desire of not shocking the feelings of the others, for we were sensible of one another's weakness of intellect, though blind to our own. Yet we were calm and resigned to our fate, not a murmur escaped ■ ' 37 " 434 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. us, and "we were punctual and fervent in our addresses to the Supreme Being." Never certainly were the blessings of religion more strongly felt than in the case of these excellent men, when to all human appearance their case was utterly hopeless ; yet nothing like despondency, not a murmur ever escaped from their lips. " Through the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady, the party, previous to leaving London, had been furnished with a small collection of religious books, of which we still retained two or three of the most port- able, and they proved of incalculable benefit to us. We read portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and found that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longjr desti- tute ; and we conversed, not only with calmness, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope on our future prospects. Had my poor friend (Mr. Hood) been spared to revisit his native land, I should look back to this period with unalloyed delight." Five days more passed on without any food except a little tripe de roche collected by Hepburn, the Iroquois continuing sulky, and though strongest of the party, refusing to contribute to its relief ; but it was strongly suspected he had a hidden supply of meat for his own use. Seeing the determined obstinacy and refractory spirit of this man, Dr. Richardson had told him, that if no relief came from Fort Enterprizc before the 20th, Hepburn and himself should be dispatched thither with I dresses a more it men, utterly murmur ght of a id been ooks, of )St port- US. Wo [1 bed, in id found strong a that our Tjr desti- ,ness, but onfidcncc 1 hope on [r. Hood) ould look 1 except a a Iroquois the party, s strongly or his own refractory him, that B the 20th, aither with LIEUTENANT, NOW CAPTAIN BACK. franklin's J0UKM:V to TIIF I'ULAR 8EA. 437 Lll.iri SANT II ■')!). a compass, by the divccti ri of Avliich tlicy might bf. ena- bled to find the house. On tlint ' oiv diiv, however, vs Hepburn wns cutting wood ncnr the tent, and Dr. Rich- ardson was collecting trij,e de roclu^, the nui^cveant assassinated Mr. Hood Vihlle hiilting over tlic fire in tlio last stage of disease and -;riity of ^:ufh ii ilveadful act, to take the whole responsibility upon raj'sclf; and immediately upon Michel's coming up, I put an end to his life by shooting him through the head with a pistol : had my own life alone," he continues, "been threatened, I would not have purchased it by such a measure ; but I considered myself as intrusted also with tho protection of Hep- burn's, a man, who, by his humane attentions and devotediiei-s 'i'"^ ■^*' (^u(V;ircd himself tome, that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own." Michel nad gathered no tvipe de roche ; and it was quite evi- franklin's journey to the polar sea. 439 fer the a mo- ;cd him itenirig If, and rom all disma erprize, 3, as to e would ty that united, Indian , he, for uld stop m to go [Stances, 10 safety be the says Dr. of the le whole ly upon shooting own life ould not )n";idered of Ilep- ions and hat I felt Michel C[uite evi- dent that he had halted for no other purpose than that of putting his gun in order, to destroy them that same evening while engaged in setting up the tent. Dr. Richardson seems to have no doubt that a very short time must have put an end to the sufferings of Mr. Hood. On his zeal, ability, and goodness of heart, both he and Captain Franklin bestow unqualified praise. " The loss," says the former, " of a young oflScer of such distinguished and varied talents and application, may be fc^; and duly ar-nreciated by the eminent cha- racters under whose coiumand he had served ; but the calmness with which he contemplated the probable ter- mination of a life of uncommon promise; and the patience and fortitude with which he sustained, I may say, unparalleled bodily sufferings, can only be known to the companions of his distresses." After dragging along their famished bodies for six days, existing on lichens and pieces of the skin cloak of poor Mr. Hood, on t)ie 29th they came in sight of the fort at dusk ; "and," says Dr. E-ichardson, "it is impossible to describe our .sensations, when, on attaining the eminence that overlooks it, we beheld the smoke issuing from one of the chimneys. From not having met with any footsteps in the snow, as wo drew nigh our once cheerful residence, we had been agitated by many melancholy forebodings. Upon entering the now desolate building, we had the satisfaction of embracing Captain Franklin, but no words can convey an idea of the filth and wretchedness that met our eyes on looking around. Our own misery had stolen upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to the contem- olation of each other's emaciated figures, but the 440 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and sepulchral voices of Mr. Franklin and those Avith him -were more than we could at first bear." An idea may be formed of the dreadful state to which the Captain's party were reduced, by the death of two of them, two days after the arrival of Dr. Richardson and Hepburn. The only remaining man and Captain Franklin were so utterly unable to assist themselves that eight-and-forty hours, and probably half that time, w^ould have put an end to their misery. •The whole labour, therefore, of procuring fire-wood, and scraping together the old pieces of skins, and fragments of bone, devolved on Dr. Richardson and Hepburn, whose strength was now rapidly declining, and very nearly exhausted, when, providentially., on the 7th of Novem- ber, the long-expected relief arrived, by the hands of three Indians sent by Mr. Back. The condition to which the four survivors were reduced, is thus described by Captain Franklin. " I may here remark, that, owing to our loss of flesh, the hardness of the floor, from Avhich we were only protected by a blanket, produced soreness over the body, and especially those parts on which the weight rested in lying, yet, to turn ourselves for relief was a matter of toil and difficulty. However, during this period, and indeed all along after the acute pains of unger, which lasted but three or four days, had sub- sided, we generally enjoyed the comfort of a few hours' sleep. The dreams which for the most part, but not always accompanied it, were usually, (though not invariably,) of a pleasant character, being very often about the enjoyment of feasting. In the day time we s! '? FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE VOLAX j'-EA. '41 )ulchval L-e more • which of two hardson Captain nnsclves at time, e whole acraping of bone, , whose f nearly Novem- lands of lition to lescribed of flesh, rere only over the le weight ief was a ring this pains of had sub- )f a few part, but ough not ery often time wo fell into the prnctice of conversing on common and light subjects, although we sometimes discussed with serious- ness and earnestness topics connected Avith religion. We generally avoided speaking directly of our present sufier- ings, or even of the prosi:)ect of relief. I observed that, in proportion as our strength decayed, our minds exhi- bited symptoms of weakness, evinced by a kind of unrea- sonable pcttishncss with each other. Each of us thought the other Aveaker in intellect than himself, and more in need of advice and assistance. So trifling a circumstance as a change of place, recommended by one as being Avarmcr and more comfortable, and refused by the otlicr from a dread of motion, frc(iucntly called forth fretful expressions which were no sooner uttered tlian atoned for, to be repeated perhaps in the course of a few min- utes. The same thing often occurred Avhen wo endea- voured to assist each other in carrying wood to tlie fire ; none of us were willing to receive assistance, although the task was disproportioned to our strength. On one of these occasions Hepburn was so convinced of this way- wardness that he exclaimed, ' Dear me, if we are spared to return to England, I wonder if we shall recover our understandings.' " Nothing could be kinder and more humane than the conduct of the Indians. They cleaned out the room, cooked their victuals, had them washed and made com- fortable, and after leaving the fort, attended them to the spot where their tribe were engaged in hunting ; giving up their own snow-shoes, keeping by their sides, lifting them up when they fell; and finally conducting them in safety to the nearest of the Company's posts, wherfe they met with their companion, Back, whose suf- 44 PERILOUS ADVENTURES 5: ferings had scarcely been less than their own, and to whose exertions the survivors of the party unquestion- ably owed their safety. One of the two Canadians who had accompanied Mr. Back, fell a sacrifice to cold, hun- ger, and fatigue. Here Mr. Wentzcl endeavoured to ex- culpate himself, by an explanation of the unfortunate circumstances which prevented hira from fulfilling Cap- tain Franklin's instructions, which the latter seems to think satisfactory — we confess we do not ; whether from indifierence, or a remnant of the old leaven clinging about him, he certainly appears to have used very little exertion in their behalf. ' . ^i(-.^.-r.^5?*^;iii,„ 1, and to [|[uestion- ians who old, liun- ■ed to cx- Fortunate ing Cap- seems to ;her from clinging ery little V^V.'; % I ROMAN P£18AMti. AN EARTHQUAKE ADVENTURE IN ITALY )^3kl ;| i ' w P^' Wmm |IIE sound had not quite died away, when the feet I stood on seemed sud- denly seized with the cramp. Cup and coffee-pot dropped as dead from Don Marzio's hand as the ball from^ St. Francis's palm. There was a rush as if of many waters, and for about ten seconds my head was overwhelmed by awful dizziness, Avhich numbed and paralyzed all sensation. Don Marzio, in form an athlete, in hcM't a lion, but a man of sudden, sanguine temperament, bustled up and darted out of the room with the ease of a man never burdened with a wife, with kith or kin. Donna Betta, a portly matron, also rose instinctively ; but I — I never could account for the odd freak — laid hold of her arm, bidding her stay. 146 rEUlLOUS ADVEXTURES. i - 1 1 The roar of eight hundred houses — or how many more can there be in Aquila ? — all reeling and quaking, the yells of ten thousand voices in sudden agony, had wholly subsided ere I allowed the poor woman calmly and majestically to waddle up to her good man in the garden. That, I suppose, was my notion of an orderly retrei t. Rosalbina had flown from a window into the lawn, like a bird. Thank God, we found ourselves all in the open air under the broad canopy of heaven. We began to count heads. Yes, there we all stood — cook, laundry-maid, dairy-maids, stable-boys, all as obedient to the awful summons as the best disciplined troops at the first roll of the drum. It was February, as I have twice observed ; and we were in the heart of the highest Apennines. The day was rather fine, but pinching cold ; and when the fever of the first terror abated, the lady and young lady began to shiver in every limb. No one dared to break silence ; but Don Marzio's eye wandered significantly enough from one to another countenance in that awe- stricken group. There was no mistaking his appeal. 'Yet, one after another, his menials and labourers re- turned his gaze with well-acted ])erplexity. No one so dull of apprehension as those who will not understand. My good friends, I was three-and-twenty. I had had my trials, and could boast of pretty narrow escapes, may have been reckless, perhaps, in my day. I smiled dimly, nodded to the old gentleman, clapped my handa oheerily, and the next moment was once more where no man in Aquila would at that moment have liked to bo for the world — under a roof. I made a huge armful of cloaks and blankets, snapped up every rag with all AN EARTHQUAKE ADVENTURE IN ITALY. 447 my more king, tho )ny, had »n calmly an in the ft orderly r into the selves all en. We id — cook, obedient troops at ; and we The day the fever ang lady to break nificantly that awe- appeal, mrers re- !^o one so derstand. '. had had escapes. I smiled my hands ore where e liked to ge armful r with all the haste of a marauding party, and moved toward tho door, tottering under the encumbrance. But now the drea'^%] crisis was at hand. • Earthquakes, it is well known, proceed by action and re-action. The second shock, I was aware, mutt be imminent. I had just touched the threshold, and stood under tho porch, when that curious spasmodic sensation once more stiffened every muscle in my limbs. Presently I felt myself lifted up from the ground. I was noAV under the portico, and was hurled against the pillar on my right ; the rebound again drove me to the post on the opposite side ; and after being thus repeat- edly tossed and buffeted from right to loft like a shut- tlecock, I was thrust down, outward, on the ground on my head, with all that bundle of rags, having tumbled headlong the whole range of the four marble steps of entrance. The harm, however, was not so great as the fright ; and, tlianks to my gallant devotion, the whole party were wrapped and blanketed, till they looked like a party of wild Indians ; m'O stood now on com- paratively firm ground, and had leisure to look about us. Don Marzio's garden was open and spacious, being bounded on three sides by tho half-crumbling wall of the town. On the fourth side was the house — a good, substantial fabric, but now miserably shaky and rickety. Close by the house was the chapel of the Ursuline con- vent, and above that its splendid spire rose chaste and stainless, " pointing the way to heaven." Any rational being might have deemed himself sufficiently removed from brick and mortar, and, in so far, out of harm's way. Not so Don Marzio. He pointed to the shadow of that spire, which, in the pale wintry sunset, stretched 448 PERILOUS ADVENTUllES. all the way across liis gunlcn, and by a strange per- version of judgment, ho contended that so far as the shadow extended, there might also the body that cast it reach in its fall, for fall it obviously must ; and as the danger was pressing, lie deemed it unwise to discuss which of the four cardinal points the tower might feel a loaning toward, whenever, under the impulse of the subterranean scourge, it would " look around and choose its ground." Don Marzio was gifted with animal courage, and even nerve, proportionate to the might of his stalwart frame. But then his was merely a com- bative spirit. Thews and sinews were of no avail in the case. The garden was no breathing ground for him, and he resolved upon prompt emigration. . The people of Aquila, as indeed you may well know, of most towns in Southern Italy, have the habit of — consequently a peculiar talent for — earthquakes. They know how to deal with them, and arc seldom caught unprepared. Two hundred yards outside the town gate, there is half a square mile of table-land on the summit of a hill — a market-plate in days of ease, a harbour of refuge in the urgency of peril. From the first dropping of the earth-ball from the hand of their guardian saint, the most far-sighted among the inhabitants had been busy pitching their tents. The whole population — those, that is, who had escaped unscathed by flying tiles and chimney-pots — were now warming there, pulling, pushing, hauling, and hammering away for rery life ; with women fainting, children screeching. Capuchins preaching. It was like a little rehearsal of doomsday. Don Marzio, a prudent housekeeper, had the latch-key of a private door at the back of the garden. AN EARTHQUAKE ADVENTURE IN ITALY. 449 go. per- : as tlic liat cast and as I discuss Ight feci le of the d choose L animal night of y a com- avail in 'ound for • ell know, labit of — 13. They m caught town gate, 10 summit arbour of dropping ian saint, had been lulation — by flying ng there, away for icreeching, hearsal of ceper, had ho garden. He threw it open — not without a misgiving at the moss-grown wall overhead. That night the very stars did not seem to him sufficiently firm nailed to the firma- ment ! His family and dependents trooped after him, eager to follow. Rosalbina looked back — at one who was left behind. Don Marzio felt he owed me at least one word .of leave-taking. He hemmed twice, came back two steps, and gave me a feverish shake of the hand. " I am heartily sorry for you, my boy," he cried. " A fuoruscito, as I may say, a bird-in-the-bush — you dare not show your nose outside the door. You would not compromise yourself alone, you know, but all of us and our friends; we must leave you — safe enough here, I dare say," with a stolen glance at the Ursuline spire, "but — ^you see — imperative duties — head of a family — take care of the females — and so, God bless you!" With this he left me there, under the deadly shape of the steeple — deadlier to him than the upas-tree; ordered his little household band out, and away they filed, ^ one by one, the head of the family manfully closing the rear. . . . I was alone — alone with the earthquake. .... There was a wood-cellar in one of the out-houses, access to which was easy and safe. One of my host's domes- tics had slipped flint and steel into my hands. In less than half-an-hour's time, a cheerful fire was crackling before me. I drew forth an old lumbering arm-chair from the wood-cellar, together with my provision and fuel. I shrouded myself in the ample folds of one of Don Marzio's riding-cloaks ; I sat with folded arms, 38^ 450 PERILOUS ABVKNTURES. my eyes riveted on the rl.-ting bl:izo, summoning all iny spirits round my heart, and bidding it to bear up. The Bun had long set, and the last gleam of a sickly twilight ^apidly faded. A keen, damp, northeast wind swept ver the earth ; thin, black, ragged clouds flitted before It, like uneasy ghosts. A stray star twinkled hero and there in the firmament, and the sickle-sjiaped moon hung in the west. But the light of those pale lumina- ries was wan and fitful. They seemed to be aAvare ot" the hopelessness of their struggle, and to mourn in anticipation of the moment when they should faint in flight, and unrelieved darkness shou? " rd it over the fields of the heavens. " .?" •. The town of Aquila, or the Eagle, as the natives name it, is perched, eagle-like, on the brow of an abrupt cliff in the bosom of the loftiest Apennines. Mont Reale, Monte Velino, and the giant of the whole chain, the " Gran Sasso d'ltalia," look dawn upon it from theii' exalted thrones. Within the shelter of that mas- sive armour, the town mi^ht well seem invulnerable to time and man. But, as I gazed despondingly round, the very hills everlasting seemed rocking froyi their foundation, and their crests nodding to destruction. Which of those mighty peaks was to open the fire of hell's artillery upon us ? Was not Etna once as still and dark as yonder great rock ? and yet it now glares by night with its ominous beacon, and cities and king- doms have been swept away at its base. Two hours passed away in gloomy meditation. The whole town was a desert. The camp meeting of the unhoused Aquilani was held somewhere in the distance : its confused murmur reached me not. Only my neigh- AN KAllTUQL'AKK ADVENTUllK IN ITALY. 451 all v\y . The 1 swept I before eve and (1 moon lumina- Avare of lourn in I faint in over the B natives in abrupt s. Mont ole chain, 1 it from that mas- Qorable to rly round, Voji their 2struction. the fire of ICC as still now glares 1 and king- tion. The ting of the e distance : r my neigh- bours, the Ur.suliiie nnns, were up and awake. AVith shrinking delicacy, dreading the look and touch of the profane even more than the walls of their prison-house, they had stood their ground with the heroism of true faith, and reared their temporary asylum under their vine-canopied bowers, within the siinde of the cloisters. A high garden-wall alone separated me from the holy virgins. They were watching, and kneeling. Every note from their silver voices sank deep in my heart, and impressed me with something of that pious confi- dence, of that imj»loring fervour, with whlcl' they ad- dressed their guardian angels and saints. Two hours had passed. The awfulness of prevailing tranquillity, tlie genial warmth of my fire, and the sweet monotony of that low, mournful chanting, were by degrees gliding into my troubled senses, and lulling them into a treacher ous security. "Just so," 1 reasoned, "shock and countershock. The terrible scourge has by this time cxliausted his strength. It was only a farce, after all. Much ado about nothing. The people of this town, have become so familiar with the eartlujuake that they make a carnival of it. By this time they are perhaps feasting and rioting under their booths. Ho ! am I the only craven hero ? And had I not my desire ? Am I not now uu speaking terms wiih uu earth- quake : Again my words conjured up the waking enemy. A low, hollow, rumbling noise, as if from many hundred miles' distance, was heard coming rapidly onward along the whole line of the Apennines. It reached us, it seemed to stop underneath our feet, and suddenly chanKinng winter 3 sky, the he chinks and crevices of many a shattered edifice. Solitude, the chillness of night, and the vagueness, even more than the inevitablcncss, of the danger, wrought fear- fully on my exhausted frame. Stupor and lethargy soon followed these brief moments of speechless excite- ment. Bewildered imagination peopled the air v/ith vague, unutterable terrors. Legions of phantoms sported on those misshapen clouds. The clash of a thousand swords was borne on the wind. Tongues of living flame danced and quivered in every direction. The firmament seemed all burning with them. I saw myself alone, helpless, hopeless, the miserable butt of all the rage of warring elements. It was an uncom- fortable night. Ten and twelve times was the dreadful visitation reproduced betAvccn sunset and sunrise, and every shock found me more utterly unnerved ; and the sullen, silent resignation with which I recomposcd and trimmed my fire had something in it consummately ab- ject, by the side of the doleful accents with which the poor half-hoarse nuns, my neighbourr-^ called on the blessed Virgin for protection. The breaking morn found me utterly prostrated ; and when Don Marzio's servants had so far recovered from their panic as to intrude upon my solitude, and offer their services for the erection of my tent in the garden, I had hardly breath enough loft to welcome them. Under that tent I passed days and nights dur- ing all the remainder of February. The sliocks, though diminished in strength, almost nightly roused us from our rest. But the people of Aquila soon learned to despise them. By one, by two, by three they sought the threshold of their dismantled homes. Last of all. 454 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. Don Ma.; io folded his tent. His fears having, finally, so far given way, as to alloAv him to think of something beside himself, he exerted himself to free me from con- finement. He furnished mo with faithful guides, by whose aid I reached the sea-coast. Here a Maltese vessel was waiting to waft me to a land of freedom and security. I can tell you, my friends, that from that time I Avas cured forever of all curiosity about earth- quakes. , - . finally, aetliing )m con- des, by Maltese om and >ra that t eartb- tj^^' :.<'.■, J: «) ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN HEAI/ IN CANADA. 'N 1829 Captain Head pub lished a very entertaining volume entitled " Forest Scenes and Incidents, in the Wilds of North Amer- ica ; being a Diary of a win ter's route from Halifax to the Canadas, and during a four months' Residence in the Woods, on the borders of Lakes Huron and Simcoe*" 458 PEllILOUS ADVLNTL'llKS. =g=ii .^^ ^^^ ^^ >■;.-: -J iM^ BT. jonxs. Captain Head, being ordered to a stat'ou in Upper Canada, landed at Halifax in the latter end of Novem- ber ; the passage of the river St. Lawrence was al- ready closed, and he liad therefore to make his way thither over land, a distance of more than twelve hnn- dred miles. The time of year could hardly have been worse for the journey : though November is to the Nova Scotians their best month, So much so, inileed, IS to bo called, for its ' fresh frosty air and bright sun,' he Indian summer. '■'/^"-.^^--'W^'^''' He went from Halifax, through Annapolis', St. John's, and Fredericton, to Prcsque Isle. Here, to his great satisfaction, the. Quebec mail arrived, in the shape of " two men on foot, of a tempest-driven ap- pearance ;" their clothes and caps covered with snow ADVENTUllKrf CI CAPTAIN 1IE.\D. 450 i U in Upper of Novcin- cc Avas al- ee his way welvc lum- ■f have been r is to the so, iiiileed, bright sun,' lapolis', St. Here, to rived, in the it-driven ap- l with snow each with a pair of snow-shoes slung at his back, and a large wliito leather bag across his shoulders. They were both native French Canadians, one apparently of half Indian blood. With these men he agreed to bo his guides, and draw his baggage on the two tobo- gins, from Presque Isle, along the course of the river by the Madawaska settlement and Lake Tamasquatha, to the shore of the St. Lawrence, for fifteen pounds. The distance is upwards of one hundred and fifty miles ; and there is a line of small log-houses on the way, occupied by settlers, to whom grants of land have been coded, for the purpose of keeping open the communication. These men had the bags from Que- bec ; they were, Avhen rid of them, to join him at the house of Mr. Turner, at Presque Isle. There he was detained eight-and-forty hours, waiting first their arrival, and then their convenience ; and the descrip- tion of his host, who Avas the chief diplomatist in those parts, and, moreover, a man in authority, and the ac- count of his establishment, presents a lively picture of civilized life (as that which is not savage must in cour- tesy be called) in its coarsest state. The party consisted of Mr. Head and his servant, three travellers Avho joined at ?>!.. Turner's, and the two guides. The guides loaded the tobogins, each put himself in harness, Avith a broad leathern strap passing over the breast and shoulders, to Avhich a rope was fixed, and thus hi could diaAV his load, Avliile his arms Avere at liberty. The Aveight, sliding easily over the snow, seemed scarcely to impede them, accustomed, as they Avere, to such draft and such travelling. But the rest of the party Avere unused to snoAV-shoes, the use 460 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. of -which is not acquired without a severe apprantico- ship. These are heavy, and they soon became heavily incumbered with ice, there being much water between the surface of the river and the snovr, which froze im- mediately. It was necessary to be provided with short sticks for beating this off. Before them was one uni- form white expanse of snow, on each side ' the heavy black wall of forest trees.' With their utmost exer- tions they could not proceed at the rate of two miles an hour ; and happy they were, after seven hours' toil, to reach their appointed place of rest, — a small log- house, at the computed distance of ten miles from Mr. Turner's. Salted pork and sliced potatoes were the only fare which could be procured here ; but there was the greatest of all comforts in such a couatry, to com- pensate for this, — a fire, composed of enormous logs, with one called the buche at the back of the hearth, so large as to require the strength of tAvo or three men, with the aid of levers, to bring it in : a largo one lasts full cight-and-forty hours. Over the fire the mocas- sins and stockings of all the party were hung to dry. To beds, as well as all other comforts, except what fire could bestow, Mr. Head had bidden adieu; but he thought his lodging good, wrapped himself in his buffa- lo skin, and slept soundly on the boards. The next day's was a journey of fourteen miles ; snow had fall- en in the night, which, as it still lay soft, ma». • their progress, if that were possible, more difficult than be- fore ; at every step, the foot felt as if chained to the ground by ice and clotted snow: and, as the shores of the ri^'^er widened, the feeling of disappointment was added to their labour ; the point on which their eyes ADVENTURES OP CAPTAIN ItEAD 4G1 rsntico- heavily between rozo im- tli short one uni- heavy >st exer- vo miles uvs' toil, nail log- i-om ^Ir. were the hero was to com- ous logs, icarth, so rec men, one lasts le mocas- g to dry. what fire ; but ho his buffa- The next had fall- lau their t than bo- ned to tho shores of ;ment was their eyea were wistfully fixed, appeared, after an hour's hard fagging, hardly nearer than before ; they " seemed sep- arated by interminable space, from headland after headland, and gasping, as it were, under a sort of spell- bound influence, such a disturbed dream brings to tho imagination." Mr. Head's servant fell up to liis middlo in an air-hole, small enough for him to support himself by the arms till he could bo pulled out, and, fortu- nately, so near the log-house where they were to rest, that there was not time for him to bo frozen. At this log- house some settlers in the vicinity had collected, one of whom requested Mr. Head to take charge of a letter for his relations in Sco^^land, from wliom it was very long since he had heard any tidings. He " seated him- self on the ground, in a corner of the room ; his desk was a plate supported on his knees ; his paper was as bad as well could be ; his ink newly thawed and quite pale ; his pen, pulled out of a wild goose's tail, was oily ; his own hand was as hard as the bark of a tree ; and his broad black thumb had been smashed by the blow of a hammer or an axe, and had no sort of bend in it." This, however, was a fortunate opportunity for this poor man ; and the letter which, under these un- comfortable circumstances, he produced, was subse- quently delivered to its address. IMr. Head very pro- perly re-marks upon this, — that " the difficulties attend- ing the interchange of letters between settlers in the colonies and their friends at home, are well worthy the attention of those desirous to promote emigration. The greater the facility of correspondence, the more the stimulus to individual adventure receives strength. Epistolary intercourse being kept up, the objections to 39* 462 PERILOUS ADVKNTUllES. foreign residence more re:5cml)le ; rejudices ; witlib>^<^ or ddaycd, tlioy bee me solid, undoniublc objections, und then it is that an emigrant may be considered really an exile." He had perceived, by his servant's fall into the air- hole, that no precaution could bo of any avail against this danger ; and that nothing was to be done but to take the chance, in such a case, for ducking or for drowning. The postmen, it ap oared next day, were of the same opinion ; and, showing how little they liked the chance, proposed that each of the party should walk first, by turns. They were, perhaps, as much influ- enced in this by the desire of easing their labour as diminishing their danger; for the first man had to make his way upon the untrodden snow, — and upon the large track of his snow shoos," those who followed found what was comparatively firm footing. The guides pie- scribed their course according to their notion of the safety of the ice, which, as it could be founded only on their recollected knowledge of the river, was but blind guid- ance ; yet they made long circuitous paths in conse- quence. A snoAV-storm came on directly in their teeth ; when they had been little more than seven hours on the way, it blew a hurricane : they were unable to see each other at a greater distance than ten yards ; and the drift made the surface of the snow, through which they were toiling, appear like an agitated sea. Wheeled round every noAV and then by the wind, the cloud which enveloped them was so strong, that it pro- duced a sense of suilbcation. Even the indefatigable guides admitted that it Avas impossible to proceed : the forest was at hand, and there they took i-efuge — turn- AlJVLNTUIlKS 0¥ CAl'TAIN HEAD. 463 lVltllb>i<^ jcctions, »nsidercd ) the air- agiainst ic but to g or for lay, wore hey liked )uld walk ich influ- labour as 1 to make tlie large ed found uidcs pie- the safety J on their ilind guid- in conse- in their 3ven hours unable to ;en yards ; V, througli itated sea. ' Avind, the hat it pro- lefatigablo oceed : the Lige — turn- ing their shouhhrs to the blast — and prepared to bi- vouac for the nipjlit. His companions were prepared for such an ad\ rnturc. lie says, " The frequent crashes of falling trees, and the cracking of their vast limbs as thoy rocked and writhed in the tempest, created awful and impressive sounds ; l)ut it was no time to be idle : warmth and shelter were ol)jocts connected with life itself, and the Canadians immediately commenced the vigorous application of their resources. By means of their small light axes, a good sized maple tree was in a very few minutes lev- elled with the earth, and in tlio mean time we cleared of snow a square spot of ground, -with large pieces of bark rippeil from the fiillen trees. The fibrous bark of the white cedar, previously rubbed to powder be- tween the hands, was ignited, and blowing upon this, a flame was produced. This being fed, first by the silky peelings of the birch bark, and then by the bark itself, the oily and bituminous matter burst forth into full action, and a splendid fire raised its flames and smoke amidst a pile of huge logs, to which one and all of us were constantly and eagerly contributing. " Having raised a covering of s[)ruce boughs above our heads, to serve as a partial defence from the snow, which was still falling in great abundance, we sat down, turning our feet to the fire, making the most of what was, Tind"er circumstances, a source of real consolation We enjoyed absolute rest ! One side of our square was bounded by a huge tree, which lay stretched across it. Against this our fire was made ; and on the oppo- site side towards which I had turned my back, another very large one was growing, and into this latter, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I If i^ IIIIM ■^ l» mil 2.2 - tiS, lilO 1.8 1.25 1.4 ^ ^ 6" - ► V] <^ /2 /: n 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 S \ \5 ;\ 3 4G4 I'KU 11.01.-; Ai)Vi;ATt'i,i;;; being old and deoayod, 1 had by (k'greos worked my way, and it I'ornied an admirable sheller. The snow was banked up on all sides nearly five feet liigli, like a white wall ; and it resolutely maintained its position, not an atom yielding to the fierce crackling fire which olazed up close against it. " The Canadians were soon busily employed cooking brotli in a saucepan, for they had provided themselves much better with provisions than I had. I had relied upon being able to put up with the fare I might meet with, not taking into consideration the want of traffic, and distance from the civilized parts of the province ; owing to which, tlio scanty provision of the inhabi- tants could not allow them to minister to the wants of others, although they might be provided with a suffi- ciency for themselves. And I now saw the guides pull- ing fresh meat out of the soup with their fingers, and sharing it liberally with my servant, whom they had admitted into their mess. The poor fellows seeing that I had nothing but a piece of salted pork, which I had toasted at the fire on a stick, offered me a share of their supper, but this I felt myself bound to decline. My servant had fewer scruples, and consequently fared better. In return for their intentions I gave them a good allowance of whisky, which added to their com- fort and increased their mirth. One by one they lighted lioir tobacco pipes, and continued to smoke; till, dropping off by degrees, the whole party at last lay stretched out snoring before me. " Large flakes of snow continued to fall, and heavy clots dropped occasionally upon the ground. Our enormous fire had the effect of making me so comfort- ADVENTURES OP CAPTAIN HEAD. 465 'uvkctl iny Tho snow ligh, like a a position, firo which ed cooking themselves ; had relied might meet t of traffic, ) province; the inhabi- le wants of with a suffi- guides pull- angers, and 1 they had ows seeing rk, which I me a share to decline, icntly fared ave them a their com- hcy lighted moke; till, at last lay and heavy ound. Our so comfort- ably warm, that I had deferred the uie of my buffalo skin till I lay down to sleep, and were it not for tho volumes of smoke with which I was at times disturbed, and the pieces of fire which burnt holes in my clothes wherever they happened to fall, my lodging would hav been, under circumstances, truly agreeable. I sat for some time, with a blanket thrown over my shoulders, in silent contemplation of a scene alike remarkable to mo for its novelty and its dreariness. " The flames rose brilliantly, the sleeping figures of the men were covered with snow, the wind whistled wildly through the trees, whose majestic forms over- shadowed us on every side, and our fire, while it shed the light of day on the immediately surrounding ob- jects, difiused a deeper gloom over the farther recesses of the forest. And thus I remained without any incli- nation to sleep, till it was near midnight. A solemn impression, not to be called melancholy, weighed hea- vily upon me. The satisfaction with which I regarded the fatigue which had gone by, was hardly sufficient to inspire confidence as to what was to come ; and this reflection it was, perhaps, that gave a colour to my thoughts at once serious and pleasing. Distant scenes were brought to my recollection, and I mused on past one times, till my eyes became involuntarily attracted by the filmy, wandering leaves of fire, which ascending lightly over the tops of the trees, for a moment ri- valled in brightness the absent stars, and then — vanished forever ! . . . I became overpowered with sleep, and, wrapping my bufialo skin around me, sank down to enjoy for several hours sound and uninterrupted re- pose. I slept heartily till day-light, when I awoke 466 PKRILOUS ADVENTURES. feeling excessively cold, and found the whole party sit ting up. The snow had ceased to fall, the sky had brightened, and intense frost had set in." • -.^' : - Long as this extract is, the singularity of the situa- tion, and the liveliness of the description, have tempted us to insert it. On beginning to move, Mr. Head found his limbs stiff with cold, and an aching sensation about his ancles, which made him apprehend that ho should not escape that painful consequence of his ap- prenticeship iu snow-shoes, called by the Canadians mal-a-raquette — it is a violent inflammation and swell- ing of the instep and ancles. But the morning was bright and clear ; and such is the exhilarating effect of clear frost, in any endurable degree, upon the healthy frame, that he felt his spirits renovated, and new strength and elasticity in his limbs. Six hours brought them to Salmon River, which was twenty-two miles from the house at which they had slept last. Their host was an old soldier, settled upon an allotment of one hundred and five acres. The next day the ice broke under one of their guides, and he fell into the water : there was a piercing wind to increase the sever- ity of the cold, and no house within roach. They has- tened to the bank, and kindled a fire with their best speed — but the man's feet were frost-bitten before ho could have the benefit of it. At a moderate distance from the fire, his companion rubbed him with snow till the circulation returned ; and in little more than half an hour, he was able to proceed. These men are as hardy as the bears, wolves and foxes, whose territory they have invaded. Four hours brought them to the house of a serjeant at the Grand Falls, where a smaU ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN HEAD. •167 party sit I sky had the situa- e tempted Mr. Head r sensation nd that he of his ap- Canadians and swell- 3rning was 12; efifect of the healthy , and new urs bronght i-tyfo miles ast. Their llotment of lay the ice ell into the e the sever- They has- their best n before he ate distance ith snow till ■e than half men are as )se territory them to the ^here a small niilitary establishment, as at Presque Isle, was kept up for the sake of the communication. Mr. Head visited the falls, at no little hazard ; but we must refer the reader to the book itself for his lively description. — The next morning " broke clear and cold," exhibiting, he says, " a loveliness of nature peculiar to the Cana- dian climate, and sufficient to dissipate every sensation of pain and weariness : a rare combination of frost and sunshine, such as, without being seen and felt can hardly be imagined. The wind was hushed to perfect stillness ; and as we walked along, our hair, our seven- days' beard, and the edges of our caps, our eyebrows, and even our eyelashes, were as white as a powdering of snow could make them. In the mean time, the ^varmth of the sun gave a sensation of peculiar purity to the air." We have winter weather in England in which this bracing and exbilar iting cftcct is perceptible; and the same sense of purity in tlie air is experienced in summer on our mountains. A journey of fifteen miles brought them to the Mad- awaska settlement, on the Grande Riviere — a " nar- row strip of a village," inhabited wholly by French Canadians, a people with whom Mr. Head had every reason to be well pleased. Here he was agreeably sur- prised to find he was to be indulged with a bed ; that, for the next stage (one and twenty miles,) the snow was sufficiently beaten to bear a horse and sleigh, and that one might be hired in the village. Still more was he surprised that, in his helpless condition, when he stood in such need of such a conveyance, there was no inclination in the owner to extort from him any thing beyond a reasonable price. Fifteen shillings was the 468 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. I •;.'.' A CAKABOO DEER. £ium which he agreed to pay ; for rather less distance, and m a better country, he had been cheated into the payment of four pounds at Annapolis. The snow was so deep, the roads " so partially broken," and the ve- hicle, though well contrived for such travelling, so rough that he would far rather have walked, had it not been for the sake of husbanding his little remaining strength. At the cost of some half-dozen overturns, liowever, he performed the stage, and was taken in at the house of an inhabitant, the auherge being full. A dozen persons joined company with the party here ; and on the morrow, witli great satisfaction, he saw his Bnow-shocs fastened on the tohogin — the remainder of I ADVEISTUllES OP CAPTAIN HEAD. 469 ss distance, ted into the le snow was and the ve- avelling, so , had it not ) remaining I overturns, taken in at mg full. A party here ; , he saw his jmainder of the way was to bo performed in mocassins : but the re- lief came late, for he was now so lame that ho could not move a step without considerable suffering. Thus they left St. Johns, and pursued their course along the Madawaska river. It was a merry as well as a motley crew with which he found liimsclf now associated, " some at the end and some at the beginning, of their respective journies." The former were hobbling and limping, weary and way-worn, with no spirits to expend in meriment ; the latter smoked and hallooed, and whistled and sung, and pelted one another with snowballs. The guides had procured largo dogs of the Newfound- land breed to draw tho tobogins, and several of these great creatures were loo;-e in their train. They roused a Caraboo deer on their way, gave chase, Mr. Head, forgetful of his laraenes?, joining with sucli ardour as to make a tolerable race, killed him, and supped that night upon one of his haunclies. This was a stage of four and twenty miles — that of the next day was twen- ty-one ; and he was now so lame as to make it a serious undertaking. It lay partly on tlic river, but when the ice became unsafe, in the forest along its banks — lastly, over Lake Tamasquatha, against a strong wind, when it required his utmost exertions to keep within any rea- sonable distance of the guides. They followed one after another, never caring for those who were behind — the foremost almost out of sight, and appearing like little black dots on the wide waste of snow ahead. At length they reached a house at the extremity of the lake, on the banks of that portage (the word may be considered as Anglicized,) which extends uninterrupt- edly from thence to the high road to Quebec. 40 470 I'ERILOUS ADVENTUUES. No sooner had he arrived than ho throw himself on the boards, thinking it would bo impossible for him to proceed the next day. Nor was any refreshment from sleep to be expected : it was manifest that sleep would be murdered here. More travellers had already estab- lished themselves in these miserable quarters. Thero were six-and-thirty persons in the room, including the mistress of the house and her sister ; these Avomen slept in the same room on a truckled bed, (the decen- cies of life being disregarded in these frontiers of civ- ilization,) the rest lay on the ground, like so many pigs. Mr. Head's next neighbour was a major in the army, whom he never saw before nor since, and who did nothing but groan all niglit. Travelling in that coun- try, like misfortune, brings a man acquainted with strange bedfellows ; they had for theirs, besides the travellers and the women, some eight of the great Newfoundland dogs, who ran about, trod upon them, growled, quarrelled, and were duiing the night en- gaged in battle royal ; t^ie whole room rising in arms to part them, by throttling them and biting the ends of their t.iils. "The gabble of tongues," says Mr. Head, "the smell «f tobacco smoke, and the disturbance altogether, was really dreadful. The women were not silent, and no matter who slept, some were sure to be awake and talking. I quite lost all my patience ; sometimes I struck at the dogs as they galloped over me ; and I shook one follow by the collar till he roared, who, in tlic scufi!i>, li:iil trodden on my lame ancles without re- morse. The only satisfaction I had was to think that ADVKNTUllES OF CAl'TAlN HEAD. d71 imself on for him to mcnt from ccp would ady estab- s. There sluding tho se women (the deccn- Ici's of civ- many pigs, the army, id who did 1 that coun- aintcd with besides the )f the great upon them, le night cn- sing in arms T the ends of Head, "the ce altogether, 3 not silent, to be awake c ; sometimes er me ; and I tared, who, in es without re- to think that the pain I was in would alone, witliout the noise, have been sufficient to keep me from sleeping." After another day's long march they reached a rest- ing place, within nine miles of the end of tho pedes- trian journey; but by this time his feet were swollen to a great size : the Canadians assured him that he had got the nial-a-raqiiettc, and he lay awake all night, in the miserable loghouse, thinking how unlucky ho was thus to be foot-foundered when so Httle a part of the way remained to be accomplished by walking. ^V^hen morning came, however, he found himself better ablo to endure the pain of exertion, however great, than to remain patiently Avhcro he was. lie relied on the asaistauco of his servant, who was still strong and able, and sot out accordingly, though the trial was the severest Avhich he had undergone, for the inflammation in his feet and ancles was so acute as exactly to resemble the pain of the gout; merely to set his feet to the ground was torture, and the slightest twist, when he trod in the holes made in the hard snow by the foot- steps of former travellers, increased it: sometimes h:. was obliged to lie down in the snow for relief, though the intense cold obliged him to rise almost immediately; but by the servant's lielp, after eight hours of this exer- tion, he arrived at the village of Rivi(ire de Loup, with a proper sense of thankfulness at having thus accom- plished what he had more than once despaired of. It was only six miles to Riviere de Cape, where there was a good inn, and a sleigh might be procured to take him there. Beset as he was witii a pack of dirty com- panions, he ordered it to be got ready, and made a last eflfort to crawl into it, ready, he says, tO endure any 472 PERILOUS ADVENTUKES thing so he could but free himself from his present associates. On reaching the inn, ho found a humane and attentive hostess, a good arm-chair, a comfortable meal, and other such indulgences as never before had been so seasonable and so welcome. It is remarkable that ease of mind brought with it immediate ease of body ; though not at the end of his journey, he was at the end of all those difficulties which it required bodily exertions to cope with, and all pain left him that even- ing. He slept well, breakfasted well, and set oflf in buoyant spirits, in a post cariole (or small sleigh drawn by one horse), on a good and well-beaten road. Sixty miles he posted that day, and reached Listet half-frozen ; the weather being intensely cold but clear, and the glories of the evening such, he says, as a winter sunset in Canada can alone produce. Fifty-one miles of the same sort of travelling brought him, on the following day, to Point Levi, an uncomfortable passage-house on the banks of the St. Lawrence, where the river is a mile and a half wide, and opposite to Quebec. In the morning, looking from his window on the river he saw it '' frozen on each bank at least three or four hundred yards from the shore, and the channel filled with pieces of ice driven forward and backward by the eddies of an impetuous tide ; these were rising 9ne above another, twisting round and round, sinking, labouring, and heaving, by the action of a current run- ning at the rate of seven knots an hour. Sometimes there was a space of clear water, wherein enormous flakes, of a superficies of three or four thousand square yards, would glide by ; huge lumps, as big as a stage coach and all its passengers, would roll over and over, OP CAPTAIN 1I1;AD IN CANADA. 473 present liumano fortablo ore had ark able ease of J was at a bodily at even- it oflF in h drawn Sixty '-frozen ; and the I winter miles of bllowing louse on ver is a on the three or channel lackward re rising sinking, rent run- >metimes mormons d square I a stage ,nd over, and tumble in various directions, now and then sinking altogether^ and afterwards rising several yards a-hcad ; large masses would meet, and drive against each other with a tremendous crasli, piling flake upon flake, and presenting a most awful spectacle, — the more interesting, as it was my business to cross over that very day." As the ice was expected every day to set, (the weather being more than ordinarily severe,) when it would be possible for sleighs to pass, a traveller, less impatient of delay than Mr. Head, would have waited where he was, unless his business had been more urgent. The passage he was told was difficult, but practicable, and with very little danger; and the time for attempt- ing it, at slack water. He engaged a log canoe, after a hard bargain, for thirty shillings; the canoe was nothing more than some fifteen feet of an entire tree, rounded at both ends alike, and hollowed by the adze. Six boatmen, each with an axe in his sash, and a pad- dle in his hand, dragged it from the shore, over the ice, to the edge of the water, chopping away the last six or eight feet of unsound ice with their axes, till the head of the canoe was brought close above the water. The tide was nearly at ebb, but the ice continually in violent motion, and the appearance very formidable. He and his man embarked as they were directed ; sat down at the bottom of the canoe, in midships, in readi- ness for a launch; a large flake floated by, leaving them a clear channel of about one hundred yards across : tenez ferme! cried the boatmen, pushed the canoe plump into the water, a fall of about two feet, and instantly they were all on board, each in his place, and paddling with might and main, to avoid a large piece 40* 474 PEIIILOUS Ain'lhVTUUHS of ice then bcarhi/; down upon them, and to gain a frozen Hurfaco right a-head. 8ii(3ceedin;^ in this, out they jumped, dragged the canoe by a ro[)0 at her iicacl out of the Avater, puslied her over tiiis .sheet of ice, some hundred and fifty yards,) then hiunehed her a second time, but in thi.s hiunch the passengers wero sphished all over, and the water immediately froze on their clothes. " But wo had not time to shake ourselves, for a largo quantity of loose ice, which appeared just to have risen up from the bottom of the river, Avas bearing down upon us in a very formidable manner. The men paddled, and strained, and abused each other, but all would not do, and we Avere in a very few seconds hemmed in and jammed on both sides by a soft pulpy mass, together with Avliich Ave Avere helplessly carried aAvay by the current sideAvise from the point Ave Avere endeavouring to reach. I could not help admiring the determination and address of the men at this moment; for they jumped out, above their knees in Avater, sometimes up to their hips, Avhile they used their utmost strength to drag the canoe forAvard by the rope. Although the surface gave Avay continually under their feet, letting them doAvn upon the large slabs of ice which Avere floating underneath, they managed, by pulling and hauling, and Avith their axes occasionally cutting and reaking aAvay the obstructing blocks Avhich stood in their Avay, to get free of all impediments, and gain once more a channel of clear Avater. "While this was going forAvard, it aa'qs extremely annoying to be perfectly helpless in the midst of so much bustle and energy ; and Avhen the fellows shouted to gain a this, out i hor head ct of ice, hed her a igers wero y froze ou for a large have risen (loNvn upon n paddled, I would not mod in and 38, together ivay by the idcavouring ^termination t; for they jmetimes up , strength to Ithough the feet, letting which were pulling and cutting and lich stood in nd gain once as extremely I midst of BO Hows shouted ta feq n '■'* '(^ •i ■:''' OF CAPTAIN HEAD IN CANADA. 477 ** Branlez ! sacre Dieu, hranlez ! tbey meant that we should rock the canoe from side to Side as we sat, to prevent het- freezing on to the ice, which disaster was only to be avoided by keeping her in continual motion. If this had taken place, the consequences might have been serious, as the day was intensely cold, and we must have floated away, with no very great chance of assistance. However, by the skill of the men we avoided it, and the thirty shillings were certainly fairly earned, for they \rere three or four minutes at this spell m the water, sometimes up to their knees, and now and then nearly up to their middle. It seems almost incre- dible that men should be able to work at all upon ice 80 unsound as not to afford a surface capable of sup- porting the weight of the body ; but on their part there geemed to be no sort of apprehension of absolute danger, owing to the vast thickness of the floating substance, a comparatively small part of which was, as they knew, that which appeared above the water ; and there was invariably a lower stratum, upon which they were re- ceived and supported as often as they sank in. " Such was the manner of making the- passage across the river St. Lawrence, at the season of the year and under such circumstances as it happened to me to undertake it ; and I have only to add, that the time occupied in going across was somewhat more than an hour, and that the varieties already cited followed each other in rapid succession, till the moment of our disembarkation at the opposite shore. At one time we were in clear water ; the next moment struggling through congelated heaps of melted snow ; then rapidly driven along over sheets of ice, and pushed over ob 478 ri; ai)vf.:;turks. structing blocks, .wliicli opposed our progress in ridges seven or eight feet iiigli. The Canadians were, how- ever, indefatigable : every obstacle, so soon as encoun- tered, was surmounted in a moment. Hard ice was hewn doAvn with the hatchets. They were active as ants : all was energy, spring, and bustle. They wero in the canoe and out of the canoe, paddling and cutting, pushing with the boat-hook, and hauling on the rope, all with instantaneous impulse, and appliance of strength in different ways, and with the most effective success." Well might he rejoice at finding himself, after such a passage, safely landed in Quebec, though so stiff with cold as scarcely to be able to move, and so in- crusted with ice as to be as much like an armadillo, ho says, (if armadillos carried the os sublime, and the erectos ad sidera vultua,) as a human being. The difficulties and miseries of his journey were now at an end. - . , . V ...M . - . , i: in ridges ere, how- s encoun- , ice was active as Dhey wero d cutting, the rope, f strength success." after such ;h so stiff and so in- nadillo, ho 1, and the jing. The no^Y at an JUNa BAHADOOB, THE NEPAULESE AMBASSADOR. r \ I t^iij ; C5 y. -T* a -■ cu ■ — H >J H ADVENTURES OF AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER AT AN ELEPHANT HUNT IN NEPAUL. R. LAWRENCE OLIPIIANT in his recent account* of his journey with tlie cauip of the Nepaulese ambassador, Jung Bahadoor, who returnsd from England in 1850| gives the following very lively ac, count of an elephant hunt on a great scale near Hetowra, and not very far from Kat- mandu, the capital of Nepaul. The narrative presents many novel and highly interesting features. We quota his words : " We found our camp prettily situated at the village of Hetowra, on the Rapti, surrounded by hills clothed * A journey to Katmandu (the capital of Nepaul) with the camp of Jung Bahadoor ; including a sketch of the Nepaulese ambassador at home. Bj' Lawrence Oliphant. New York, D. Appleton & Go. 1862. 41 (481) 482 PERILOUS ADVENTUllEri. to their summits with evergreen jungle not unlike those I had lately left in Ceylon. " The Minister Sahib, having received information that a herd of wild elephants were in the neighbour- hood, paid us a visit immediately on our arrival at camp, m a great state of excitement, and enjoined upon us the necessity of an early start if we wished to partake of a sport which he promised would exceed any thing we had ever witnessed, and prove such as no European had ever before had an opportunity of joining in. " I was aroused about 3 on the following morning, by the tune of the 'British Grenadiers,' played by the bands of the two regiments, which marched past my tent on their way to beat the jungle, and I wondered whether its composer ever imagined that its inspiriti.ig effects would be exercised upon men bound on so sin- gular a duty as those whose tramp we now heard becoming fainter and fainter as they wound up the valley. This was a signal for us to abandon our mat- tresses, which were always spread on the ground, in default of a four-poster, but were none the less comfort- able or fascinating to their drowsy occupants on that account. It was necessary to make such a morning's meal as should be sufficient to last 24 hours. This was rather a difficult matter at that early hour, as we had eaten a large dinner over-night : however, we accom- plished it to the best of our power, and, jumping into our howdah, soon overtook Jung, whom we accompanied to what was to be the scene of action, a thick saul jun- gle on the banks of the Curroo Nuddee, here a consid- erable stream. V , -^ ' , . " Down a hill before us, and by a particular pass, the 1 ELEPHANT HUNTING IN NEPAUL. 483 unlike tliosc information le neighbour- rival at camp, d upon us tlio > partake of a r thing we hat! Suropean had ; in. ring morning, played by the ched past my ,nd I wondered , its inspiritLig )und on so sin- vre now heard ■wound up the indon our mat- the ground, in ;he less comfort- •upants on that iich a morning's ours. This was hour, as we had ever, we accom- id, jumping into . we accompanied a thick saul jun- je, here a consid- irtioular pass, the wild elephants were to be driven by the united efforts of the gallant rilio corps, a regiment of infantry, and a hundred elephants ; while our party, which comprised an equal number of these animals, was prepared to receive their brethren of the woods. " Our patience as sportsmen was destined to be severely tried, and mid-day came without any elephants having made their appearance : we therefore lit a huge fire, and, dismounting, partook with Jung of some very nice sweet biscuits and various specimens of native con- fectionery, declining the green looking mutton wliich was kindly pressed upon us. Had the elephants chosen that moment to come down upon us, a curious scone must have ensued : Jung's grapes would have gone one way, and his curry-powder the other — ho was ?ating grapes and curry-powder at the time ; and his Orothor, who was toasting a large piece of mutton on a reed, must have either burnt his mouth or lost the pre- vious morsel : however, the elephants did not come, so Jung fmislic'd his ,irrapes and curry-powder, and his brother waited till the mutton was cool, ate it in peace, and went through the necessary ablutions. He then gave me a lesson in cutting down trees with a kukii, a sort of bill-hook, in the use of which the Nepaulese are peculiarly expert, 'i'he Minister Sahib at one stroke cut th;ou;xh a saul-trt'C which was 13 inches in circum- ference, while suniliy unsuccessful attempts which 1 made on very small branches created great amusement among the by-standcrs skilled in the use of the weapon. " At last a dro})i)ing shot or two were heard in the distance : this was the signal of the approach of the herd, and I was put by the minister through the exer- 484 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. ciscs necessary to l)o acquired before commencing the novel cliace. ' Taking oft'niy shoes and tying a towel round my head, I was told to suppose an immense branch to bo in front of mo, and was taught to escape its sweeping effects by sliding down the crupper of the elephant, and keeping the whole of my body below the level of his back, thus allowing the branch to pass within an inch above with- out touching me. In the same manner, upon a branch threatening me from the right or left, it was necessary to throw myself on the opposite side, hanging only by my hands, and swinging myself into my original posi- tion by a most violent exertion, which required at the same time considerable knack. Having perfected my- self in these accomplishments to the utmost of my power, I awaited in patience the arrival of the ele- phants. " Looking round, I saw Jung himself, seated in the place of the mahout, guiding the elephant which ho bestrode very cleverly. When silence was required, ho made a peculiar clucking noise Avith his tongue ; whereupon these docile creatures immediately became still and motionless : one would drop the tuft of grass which ho was tearing up, another would stop instantly from shaking the dust out of the roots which he was pvcparing to eat, others left off chewing their food. ^\'iicn a fcAv seconds of the most perfect calm had elapsed, the rooting up and dusting out went on more 1; i- ; snow to the the Japanese. a shore during boat, to put to 3ut thev were ts they visited h reduced that lat were drawn oti that proved led in a thicket i to surrender passed through ibitan.-- ilocked honour of the lot one of them .'hoy all seemed to commiserate us, and some of the women even shed tears while they presented us with something to eat or drink. Such was the expression of feeling among a people whom enlightened Europe has regarded as barbarians." To prevent any further attempts at escape, the Rus- sians were now more rigorously confined. They were imprisoned in small cages, placed together in the same room, and nearly excluded from light. That in which Golownin was obliged to enter was six paces long, five broad, and about ten feet high. They were inspected by the guards every half hour, and awakened from their sleep to answer the call. This rigour, however, was of short continuance ; the disposition of the Japa- nese seems to be as humane as their principles are severe. The governor of Matsmai represented the strangers favourably to the emperor ; and this, united with the negotiations of Captain Rikord. who had cap- tured a wealthy Japanese by way of reprisal, had the effect of procuring their liberation, after a confinement of about two years. The kind-hearted Japanese evinced the sincerest joy at their release ', .:nd in con- formity with the general wish of the inhabitants, the hiinyo or governor of Matsmai ordered that prayers for the safe voyage of the Russians should be offered up in all the temples for the space of five days. LOSS OF THE BLENDENIIALL. N the year 1821, the Blen dcnhall, free trader, bound from England for Bom- bay, partly laden -vvitli broad-clotlis, was proceed- ing on her voyage with every prospect of a suc- cessful issue. While thus pursuing her way through the Atlantic, she was unfortunately driven from her course, by adverse winds and current*^, more to the southward and westward than was required, and it be- came desirable to reach the island of Tristan d'Ac- unha, in order to ascertain and rectify the reckoning. y ^^3 ALL. 321, the Blen ) trader, bouml ind for "Born- f laden -witli ^, was procccd- voyage with pect of a suc- 0. While thus ^r way through i-ivcu from her 4, more to the ired, and it he- Tristan d'Ac- thc reckoning. aniPWRECK OF THE BLENDENHALL. J LOSS OF THE BLENDENIIALL. 499 This island, which is called after the Portuguese admi- ral who first discovered it, is one of a group of three, the others being the Inaccessible and Nightingale Islands, situated many hundreds of miles from any land, and in a south-westerly direction from the Cape of Good Hope. The shores arc rugged and precipitous in the extreme, and form, perhaps, the most dangerous coast upon which any vessel could be driven. It was while steering to reach this group of islands, that, one morning, a passenger on board the Blenden- hall, who chanced to be upon deck earlier than usual, observed great quantities of sea-weed occasionally float- ing alongside. This excited some alarm, and a man was immediately sent aloft to keep a good look-out.—' The weather was ^hen extremely hazy, though mode- rate ; the weeds inued ; all were on the alert ; they shortened sail, aii^i the boatswain piped for breakfast. In less than ten minutes, " breakers ahead !" startled every soul, and in a moment all were on deck. — " Breakers starboard ! breakers larboard ! breakers all around," was the ominous cry a moment afterwards, and all was confusion. The words were scarcely ut- tered, when, and before the helm was up, the ill-fated ship struck, and after a few tremendous shocks against the sunken reef, she parted about mid-ship. Ropes and stays were cut away — all rushed forward, as if instinct- ively, and had barely reached the forecastle, when t]^ stern and quarter-deck broke asunder with a violent crash, and sunk to rise no more. Two of the seamen miserably perished — the rest, including officers, passen- gers and crew, held on about the head and bows — the struggle was for life ! )00 PKKILOUS AI)VI;NTUIIES. At this moment, the Inacccs.siMe Island, which till then Iiad hoen veiled in thick clonds and mist, appeared fi'OAvning above the haze. The wreck was more than two miles from the frightful shore. The base of tho island was still buried in impenetrable gloom. In this perilous extremity, one was for cutting away tho an- chor, Avhich had been got up to tho cat-head in time of need ; another was ^or cutting doAvn the foremast (tho foretop-mast being already by tho board.) The fog totally disappeared, and tho black rocky island stood in all its rugged deformity before their eyes. Sud-' denly tho sun broke out in full splendour, as if to ex- pose more clearly to tho view of the suifei'ers their dit'iuU'ul predicament. Despair was in every bosom — death, arrayed in all its terrors, seemed to hover over the wreck. But exertion was required, and every thing that human energy could devise was effected. — The wreck, on which all eagerly clung, was fortunately drifted by the tide and wind between ledges of sunken rocks and thundering breakers, until, after the lapse of several hours, it entered the only spot on tho island where a landing was possibly practicable, for all tho other parts of the coast consisted of perpendicular cliffs of granite, rising from amidst tho deafening surf to the height of twenty, forty and sixty feot. As the shore was neared, a raft was prepared, and on this a few paddled for tho cove. At last the wreck drove right in : ropes were instantly thrown out, and the crew and passengers, (except two who had been crushed in the wreck,) including three ladies and a female attend- ant, were snatched' from the watery grave, which a few short hours before had appeared inevitable, and safely 10^ Ol- Tin; ltl.KNl)i;MIAl-l,. 601 I, which tin st, appcarctl } more than base of tho )m. In this LAvay the an- d in time of 3remast (tho 1.) Tho fog island stood eyes. Sud-' , as if to ox- iffcj-ers their ery bosom — hover over , and every IS effected. — IS fortvmately res of sunken fter the lapse on the island e, for all tho perpendicular leafening surf feet. As the and on this a wreck drove ;, and the crew sen crushed in female attend- e, which a few ale, and safely Innded on tlK> Ijciicli. Evening had now set in, and every clTort wns mndo to secure whatever could bo saved from the Avreck. Bales of cloth, cases of Avino, a few boxes of choose, some hams, tho carcass of a milch cow that had l)ccn washed on shore, bucket?, tubs, butts, a seaman's chest, (containing a tinder-])ox and needles nnd thread,) with a number of elegant mahogany turned bed-posts, and part of an investment for tho India market, were got on shore. The rain poured doAvn in torrents — all hands were busily at work to procure shelter from the weatlior ; nnd with the bed-posts and broad cloths, and part of the fore- sail, as many tents were soon pitclu'd as there were individuals on the island. Drenched with tlie sea and Avitb the rain, hungry, cold, and comrortlcss, thousands of Miiles from their native land, almost beyond ex[)0(;tation of human suc- cour, hope nearly anniliilatcd, — tho slii])wreckcd voy- agers retired to their tents. In the morning the wreck had gone to pieces; and planks and spars, and wliatever had floated in, Avcrc eagerly dragged on shore. No sooner Avas the unfortunate ship lirokcn up, than deem- ing themselves freed from tlio bonds of authority, many began to secure Avhatcver came to laud : and the cap- tain, officers, passengei's, and croAV, Avere now reduced to the same level, and obliged to take their turn to fetch Avater, and explore the island for food. The work of exploring Avas soon over — there Avas not a bird, nor a quadruped, nor a single tree to be seen. — All Avas barren and desolate. The Ioav parts Avere scat- tered over with stones and sand, and a foAV stunted weeds, rocks, ferns, and other plants. The top of the ■ajHewsMflss 502 I'EKILOUS ADVENTURES. mountain was found to consist of a fragment of origi nal table land, very marshy, and full of deep sloughs, intersected Avith small rills of water, pure and pellucid as crystal, and a profusion of wild parsley and celery. The prospect was one dreary scene of destitution, without a single ray of hope to relieve the misery of the desponding crew. After some days, the dead cow, hams, and cheese, were consumed ; and from one end of the island to the oiher, not a morsel of food could be seen. Even the celery began to fail. A few bot- tles of wine, which, for security had been secreted under ground, only remained. Famine now began to threaten. Every stone near the sea was examined for shell-fish, but in vain. In this dreadful extremity, and while the half-fam- ished seamen wore at niglit s.[uatting in sullen dejec- tion around their fires, a large lot of sea-birds, allured by the flames, rushed into the midst of them, and were greedily. laid hold of as fast as they could be seized. — For several nights in succession, similar flocks came in ; and by multiplying their fires, a considerable sup- ply was secured. IMicse visits, however, ceased at length, and the wretched party were exposed again to the most severe privation. When their stock of wild fowl had been exhausted for more than two days, each began to fear they were now approaching that sad point of necessity, when, between death and casting loiS who should be sacrificed to serve for food 'or the rest, no alternative remained. While horror it the b:ire contemplation of nn extremity so repulsive occu- pied the thoughts of all, the horizon was observed to De suddenly obscured, and presently clouds of penguin LOSS OP THE BLENDENIIALL. 503 of origi ) sloughs, i pellucid ad celery, [jstitution, misery of dead cow, n one end bod could \. few bot- 1 secreted f began to Ltnined for I lialf-fam- llen dejec- ds, allured and were seized. — )ck8 came rable sup- ceased at id again to ck of wild djiys, each that sad tid casting lod 'or the ror it the Isive occu- )bserved to )f penguin alighted on the island. The low grounds were actually covered ; and before the evening was dark, the sand could not be seen for the number of eggs, which, like a sheet of snow, lay on the surface of the earth. The penguins continued on the island four or five days, when, as if by signal, the whole took their flight, and were never seen again. A few were killed, but the flesh was so extremely rank and nauseous that it could not be eaten. The eggs were collected and dressed in all manner of ways, and supplied abundance of food for upwards of three weeks. At the expiration of that period, famine once more seemed inevitable ; the third morning began to dawn upon the unfortunate company after their stock of eggs were exhausted ; they had now been without food for more than forty hours, and were fainting and dejected ; when, as though this desolate rock were really a land of miracles, a man came run- ning up to the encampment with the unexpected and joyful tidings that "millions of sea-cows had come on shore." The crew climbed over the ledge of rocks T.iat flanked their tents, and the sight of a shoal of mana- tees immediately beneath them gladdened their hearts. These came in with the flood, and were left in the pud- dles between the broken rocks of the cove. This sup- ply continued for two or three weeks. The flesh was mere blubber, and quite unfit for food, for not a man could retain it on his stomach ; but the liver was excellent, and on this they subsisted. In the meantime, the car- penter with his gang had constructed a boat, and four of the mtn had adventured in her for Tristan d'Acun- ha, in hopes of ultimately extricating their fellow-suf- ferers from their perilous situation. Unfortunately *fi5'ifeB?Z'»:_^-**,3*«64SS^-j4 504 PERILOUiS ADVEXTUllES. the boat "vvas lost — Avhetliov carrieJ away by the vio lence of the currents that set in between the islands, 01* dashed to pieces against the breakers, was never known, for no vestige of the boat or crew was ever seen. Before the manatees, however, began to quit the shore, a second boat w-as launched ; and in this an offi- cer and some seamen made a second attempt, and hap- pily succeeded in effecting a landing, after much labour, on the island, where they were received with much cor- diality and humanity by Governor Glass — a personage whom it will be necessary to describe. Tristan d'Acunha is believed to have been uninhabi- ted until 1811, when three Ameiicnns took up tlicir resi- dence upon it, for the purpose of cult iva Ling vegeta- bles, and selling the produce, particularly potatoes, to vessels which might touch there on their way to India, the Cape, or other parts in the southern ocean. These Americans remained its only inhabitants till 1816, when, on Bonaparte being sent to St. Helena, the British government deemed it expedient to garrison the island, ana sent the Falmouth man-of-war with a colony of forty persons, whieh arrived in the month of August. At this time the chief of the American set- tlers was dead, and two only survived ; but what finally became of these we are not informed. The British garrison was soon given up, the colony abandoned, and all returned to the Cape of Good Hope, except a per- son named Glass, a Scotchman, who had been corporal of artillery, and his wife, a Cape Creole. One or two other families afterwards joined them, and thus the foundation of a nation on a small scale was formed ; Mr. Glass, with the title and character of governor, by the vio the islands, was never *v was ever I to quit the this an offi- )t, and hap- luch labour, li much cor- a personage ;n uninhabi- ip tlicir rosi- iug vegeta- potatoes, to ly to India, ;an. These till 1816, Elelena, the to garrison -war with a le month of aerican set- what finally The British idoned, and xcept a per- son corporal One or two id thus the ras formed; tf governor, LOSS OF TllK IJLENDENIIALL. 505 like a second Robinson Crusoe, being the undisputed chief and hnvgivcr of tlie Avhole. On being visited in 1825, by Mr. Augustus Earlc, the little colony was found to be on the increase, a considerable number of children having been born since the period of settle- ment. The different families inhabited a small village, consisting of cottages covered with thatch made of the long grass of the island, and exhibiting an air of com- fort, cleanliness, and plenty, truly English. It was to this island that the boat's crcAV of the Bleudenhall had bent their course, and its principal in- habitant. Governor Glass, showed them every mark of attention, not only on the pcore of humanity, but be- cause they were fellow subjects of the same power — for, be it known, Glass did not lay claim to indepen dent monarchy, but always prayed publicly for King George as his lawful sovereign. On learning the situ- ation of the crew, on Inaccessible Island, he instantly launched his boat, and unawed by considerations of personal danger, hastened, at the risk of his life, to de liver his shipwrecked countrymen from the calamities they had so long endured. He made repeated trips, surmounted all difficulties, and fortunately succeeded in safely landing them on his OAvn island, after they had been exposed for nearly three months to the hor- rors of a situation almost unparalleled in the recorded sufferings of seafaring men. After being hospitably treated" by Glass and his company for three months, the survivors obtained a passage to the Capo, all except a young sailor named White, who had formed an attachment to one of the servant girls on board, and who, in all the miseries 43 ''*Kmm>rr»i wwww^^^ESK^ 506 PBRILOUS ADVENTURES. which had been endured, had been her constant protec- tor and companion ; whilst gratitude on her part pre- vented her wishing to leave him. Both chose to re- main, and were forthwith adopted as free citizens of he little community. ant protec- sr part pre- ;hose to re- citizens of ii^ m I C6 fiw5 ml I M r» M W w lb MR. BORROWS ADVENTURES AMONG THE GIPSIES IN SPAIN. T'-T-vR. GEORGE BORROWS two books the " Gipsies of Spain" and " The Bible in Spain" contain some very amusing accounts of his ad- ventures among the Gipsies of that country. His acquaintance with the regular language of these people and his intimate knowledge of their manners and costumes, always caused him to be received among them as a genuine gipsy. From his Bible in Spain we shall proceed to make some extracts which exhibit the manners of the gipsies and contain many singular revelations. It appears that stealing horses and donkeys and selling them forms a considerable part of the business of these law- ess robbers. Soon after passing the Spanish line Mr. BorroAV fell into company with a party of his old friends, the gip- sies. One of them, the Antonio familiar to the rcmders of his former work, offers to be his guide onward, and the ancient hankering for Rommani society is too strong for the temptation. The missionary accepts the **«tOX-J'^ 610 PEUILOUf? ABVKNTURES. offer ; and we have him pursuing his ^svay for more than a week, mounted on a spare pony (Egyptice gras), from the Gitano camp — lodging, whether in flekl, forest, village, town, or city, exactly where Antonio would naturally have lodged had there heen no stranger with him. There can he no sort of doubt that through- out his travels Mr. Borrow had usually passed with gipsies for one in part at least of their own blood. It was so at Moscow — where the Prima Donna of the celebrated Singing Company was at once ready to hail him as a kinsman. It is so every where in Spain ; and most queer are some of the results to the supposed "Caloro." " Towards evening we drew near to a large town or village. ' That is Merida,' said Antonio, * formerly a mighty city of the Corahai. We shall stay here to- night, and perhaps for a day or two, for I have some business of Egypt to transact in this place. Now, brother, step aside with the horse, and wait for me beneath yonder wall. I must go before and see in what condition matters stand.' I dismounted, and sat down on a stone beneath the ruined Avail to which Antonio had motioned me: the sun went down, and the air was exceedingly keen : I drcAV close around me an old tattered gipsy cloak with which my companion had provided me, and, being somewhat fatigued, fell into a doze which lasted for nearly an hour. " Is your worship the London Caloro ?" said a strange voice close beside me. I started, and beheld the face of a woman peering under my hat. Notwithstanding the dusk, I could see that the features were hideously ugly and almost Ijlack : they belonged, in fact, to a ADVENTURES AMONa TII^ GIPSIES IN SPAIIN. oll >r more than (Tptice graB\ ler in flokl, ere Antonio I no stranger hat through- passed with n blood. It ►onna of the ce ready to (re in Spain ; the supposed large town or 0, 'formerly stav here to- I have some place. Now, wait for me e and see in inted, and sat ,vall to which nt down, and )se around me ny companion igued, fell into said a strange eheld the face jtwithstanding svere hideously in fact, to a gipsy crone, at least seventy years of age, leaning upon a staff. "Is your worship the London Caloro?" repeated she. "I am ho whom you seek," said I; "where is Antonio?" ^^ Curclando, ciirelando, bari- hustrcs curelos'tei^ela,"'* said the crone: "come with me, Caloro of my garlochin, come with mo to my little ker; he will bo there anon." I followed the crone, who led the way into the town, which was ruinous and seemingly half deserted ; we went up the street, from which she turned into a narrow and dark lane, and presently opened the gate of a large dilapidated house. " Come in," said she. " And the gras ?" I demanded. I " Bring the gras in too, my chabo, bring the gras in too ; there is room for the gras in my little stable." We entered a large court, across which we proceeded till we came to a wide doorway. " Go in, my child of Egypt," said the hag ; " go in : that is my little stable." "The place is as dark as pitch," said I, " and may be a well for what I know ; bring a light, or I will not enter." " Give me the solabarri (bridle)," said the hag, " and I will lead your horse in, my chabo of Egypt ; yes, and tether him to my little manger." She led the horse through the doorway, and I heard her busy in the darkness ; pre- sently the horse shook himself: " Crrasti tfirelamos," said the hag, who now made her appearance with the bridle in her hand; "the horse has shaken himself: he is not harmed by his day's journey. Now let us go in, my Caloro, into my little room." We entered the house and found ourselves in a vast room, which would have been quite dark but for a faint * "Doing business, doing business; — lie baa much business to do.' '*^&fe»»«(t.:fv(*»^„,»,^.^, 612 PERILOUS ADVENTUUKS. glow which appeared at the farther end ; it proceeded from a hrasero, beside ivhich were squatted two dusky figures. "These are calloes," said theluig; "one is my daughter, and the other is her chahi ; sit doAvn, my London Caloro, and let us hear you speak." I looked about for a chair, but could see none : at a short dis- tance, however, I perceived the end of a broken pillnr lying on the floor; this I rolled to the brasero and sat down upon it. "This is a fine house, mother of the gipsies," said I ; " rather cold and damp, though it appears large enough to be a barrack." " Plenty of houses in Merida, my London Caloro, some of them just as they were left by the Corahanocs. Ah ! a fine people are the Corahanocs ; I often wish myself in their chim once more." " IIoav is this, mother?" said I; "have you been in the land of the Moors ?" " Twice have I been in their country, my Caloro — twice have I been in the land of the Corahai. The first time is more than fifty years ago : I was then with the Sese (Spaniards), for my husband was a soldier of the Crallis (King) of Spain, and Oran at that time belonged to Spain." "You were not then v.ith the real Moors," said I, " but only with the Spaniards who occupied part of their country ?" " I have been with the. real Moors, my London Caloro. About forty years ago I was with my ro * i Ceuta, for he Avas still a soldier of the king; and he said to me one day, ' I am tired of this place, where there is no bread and less water; I will escape and turn Corahano : this night I will kill my sergeant, and flee to the camp of the Moor.' 'Do so,' said I, ' my chabo ; and as soon as may be I will follow you and become a Corahani.* That same night he killed ; proceeded two dusky . The national measured me from top to toe, and then looked me full in the face with an expression which seemed to say, "Likely enough." In fact, my appearance was by no means calculated to prepossess people in my favour. Upon my head I wore an old Andalusian hat, which, from its condition, appeared to have been trodden under foot ; a rusty cloak, which had perhaps served half a dozen generations, en- wrapped my body. My nether garments were by n( means of the finest description, and as far as could be seen were covered with mud, with which my face was likewise plentifully bespattered ; and upon my chin was a beard of a week's growth. " '•'' ' ' "Have you a passport?" at length demanded the national. I remeiiioored having read that the best way to win a Spaniard's heart is to treat him with cere- monious civility. I therefore dismounted, and, taking off my hat, made a low bow to the constitutional sol- dier, saying, " Senor nacional, you must know that I am an English gentleman, travelling in this country for ny pleasure. I bear a passport, which, on inspecting, you will find perfectly regular : it was given me by the great Lord Palmerston, minister of Englan ^, whom you of course have heard of here ; at the bottom you will see his own handwriting ; look at it and rejoice ; perhaps you will never have another opportunity. As ADVENTURES AMONG TIIS GIPSIES IN SPAIN. 523 angers. — through d into my Do I look pany with toe, and expression 1 fact, my prepossess rore an old ppcarcd to oak, which ations, en- vere by n( ,s could be ly face was [ly chin was landed the It the best Q Avith cere- and, taking utional sol- cnow that I country for inspecting, ven me by lac ^, Avhom bottom you nd rejoice; ;unity. As I put unbounded confidence in the honour of every gentleman, I leave the passport in your hands .whilst I repair to the posada to refresh myself. When you have inspected it, you will perl j-s oblige me so far as to bring it to me. Cavalier, I kiss your hands." I then made him another low bow, which he returned with one still lower, and, leaving him now staring at the passport and now at myself, I went into a posada, to which I was directed by a beggar whom I met. I fed the horse, and procured some bread and bar- ley, as the gipsy had directed rae ; I likewise purchased three fine partridges of a fowler, who was drinking wine in the posada. He was satisfied with the price I gave him, and offered to treat mo with a copita, to which I made no objection. As we sat discoursing at the table, the national entered with the passport in his hand, and sat down by us. National. — Caballero ! I return you your passport ; it is quite in form : I rejoice to have made your acquain- tance; no doubt you can give me some information re- specting the war. Myself. — I shall be very happy to afibrd so polite and honourable a gentleman any information in my power. --..■■:■ -x ^ National. — What is England doing ? If she pleased, she could put down the war in three months. Myself. — No tenga usted euidao, Senor nacional,— You have heard of the legion which my Lord Palmor- ston has sent over ? Leave the matter in their hands. National. — It appears to mo that this Caballero Balmerson must be a very honest man. Myself. — There can be no doubt of it. 624 rEllILOUS ADVENTURES. National. — I have heard that he was a great general. Myself. — In some things neither Napoleon nor the sawyer* would stand a chance with him. E9 mucho Jiombre. . . . .,. • . National. — I am glad to hear it. Does he intend to head the legion ? •.,.,.:.. ., ., - _. . - Myself. — I believe not ; but he has sent over, to head the fighting men, a friend of his, who is thought to be nearly as much versed in military matters as himself. National. — lo me alegro mucJto. I see that the war will soon be over, (jaballero, I thank you for your politeness, and for the information which you have afforded me. The despoblado, out yonder, has a particularly evil name ; be on your guard, Caballero. I am sorry that gipsy was permitted to pass ; should you meet him and not like his looks, shoot him at once, stab him, or ride him down. He is a well-known thief, contrabandista, and murderer, and has committed more assassinations than he has fingers on his hands. Stay ; before I go I should wish to see once more th j signa- ture of the Caballero Balmerson. I showed him the signature, which he looked upon with profound reverence, uncovering his head for a moment ; we then embraced and parted. I mounted the horse and rode from the town, at first proceeding very slowly ; I had no sooner, however, reached the moor than I put the animal to his speedy i * "El Serrador, a Carlist partisan, about this time much talked of." i i ,s a great 3on nor tlie Us mucho he intend nt over, to ) is thought matters as e that the nk you for ■which you >nder, has a /aballero. I ; should you lira at once, known thief, mitted more nds. Stay ; re th i signa- looked upon head for a town, at first er, however, ,0 his speedy ac much talked ADVENTURES AMONG THE UIPSIES IN SPAIN. 525 trot, and proceeded at a tremendous rate for some time, expecting every moment to overtake the gipsy. I, however, saw nothing of him, nor did I meet with a single human being. The road along which I sped was narrow and aandy, winding amidst thickets of broom and brushwood, with which the despoblado was over- grown, and which in some places were as high as a man's head. Aoross the moor, in the direction in which I was proceeding, rose a lofty eminence, naked and bare. The moor extended for at least three leagues ; I had nearly crossed it, and reached the foot of the ascent. I was liecoming very uneasy, conceiv- ing I might have passed the gipsy amongst the thick- ets, when I suddenly h^ard his well-known 0-la ! and his black savage head and staring eyes suddenly ap- peared from amidst a ciamp of broom. " You have tarried long, brother," saud he; "I almost thought you had played me false." Antonio found pypsently that he had no chance of escape except in quieting the high road altogether. Our living Polyglott therefore proceeds in solitary state. But near Talavera he is overtaken by another horseman, a grave, well-clad man of middle age, with whom he jogs on for a few minutes. The stranger speaks good Castilian ; but in a moment of excitement an exclamation escapes him which betrays the Mo- resco.* Mr. Borrow caps him in Arabic. The man walked on about ten paces, in the same manner as he had previously done ; all of a sudden he * It appears by this account that some of the Spanish clergy are Mahometans. 626 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. turned, and, taking the bridle of the burra gently in his hand, stopped her. I had now a full view of his face and figure, and those huge features and Herculean form still occasionally revisit me in my dreams. I see him standing in the moonshine, staring me in the face with his deep calm eyes. At last he said, — ".£'8 usted tambien cle nosotros." Mr. Borrow could scarcely answer before the man signified that he knew him to be English. They ex- plain to their mutual satisfaction. It was late at night when we arrived at Talavera. We went to a large gloomy house, which my compan- ion informed me was the principal posada of the town. We entered the kitchen, at the extremity of which a large fire was blazing. "Pepita," said my companion to a handsome girl, who advanced smiling towards us ; " a brasero and a private apartment : thij cavalier is a friend of mine, and wc shall sup together." Wo were shown to an apartment in which were two al- coves containing beds. After supper, which consisted of the very best, by the order of my companion, we sat over the brasero and commenced talking. Ml/self. — Of course you have conversed with Eng- lishmen before, else you could not have recognised mo by the tone of my voic.e. Aharhenel. — I was a young lad when the war of independence broke out, and there came to the village in which our family lived an English officer in order to teach discipline to the new levies. He was quartered in my father's house, where he conceived a great aflec- tion for me. On his departure, with the consent of my father, I attended him through both the Castiles, partly ADVKXTlMii:.'^ AMuNii TIIH (ili'.-^IKS IX Sl'AlN. 527 a gently in view of his 1 Herculean ams. I sec ! in the face re the man . They ex- it Talavcra. my compaii- )f the town, r of which a f companion towards us ; cavalier is a 3ther." Wo vere two al- ch consisted mion, we sat \ with Eng- cogniscd me the war of ;o the village T in order to 'as quartcrctl 1 great afl'ec- anscnt of my istiles, partly as companion, partly as domestic. I was with him nearly a year, when he was suddenly summoned to return to his own country. He would fain have taken mo with him, but to that my father would by no means consent. It is now five-and-and-twenty years since I last saw an Englishman ; but you have seen how I recognised you even in the dark night. Myself. — And what kind of life do you pursue, and by what means do you obtain support ? Aharhenel. — I experience .no difficulty. I live much in the same way as I believe my forefathers lived ; cer- tainly as my father did, for his course has been mine. At his death I took possession of the herencia, for I was his only child. It was not requisite that I should follow any business, for my wealth was great ; yet, to avoid remark, I have occasionally dealt in wool ; but lazily, lazily — as I had no stimulus for exertion. I was, however, successful in many instances, strangely so ; much more than many others who toiled day and night, and whose soul was in the trade. Myself. — Have you any children? Are you mar- ried ? Abarhencl. — I have no children, though I am mar- ried. I have a wife and an amiga, or I should rather say two wives, for I am wedded to both. I however call one my amiga, for appearance sake, for I wish to live in quiet, and am unwilling to offend the prejudices of the surrounding people. , Myself. — You say you arc wealthy. In what does vour wealth consist ? Aharhenel. — In gold and silver, and stones of pv.^'c^ for I have inherited all the hoards of my forefathers. 628 PEiiiLois ai»vi;ntl'Ki;s. The greater part is buried underground ; indeed, I have never examined the tenth part of it. I have coins of silver and gold older than the times of Ferdinand the Accursed and Jezebel ; I have also large sums employed in usury. We keep ourselves close, however, and pre- tend to bo poor, miserably so ; but on certain occasions, at our festivals, when our gates are barred, and our savage dogs are let loose in the court, wc eat our food off services such as the Queen of Spain cannot boast of, and wash our feet in ewers of silver, fashioned and wrought before the Americas were discovered, though our garments arc at all times coarse, and our food for the most part of the plainest description. Myself. — Are there more of you than yourself and your two wives ? Aharhenel. — There are my two servants, who are likewise of us ; the o is a youth, and is about to leave, being betrothed to one at some distance ; the other is old : he is now upon the road, following me with a mule and car. Myself. — And whither are you bound at present ? Aharhenel. — To Toledo, where I ply my trade occa- sionally. I love to wander about, though I seldom stray far from home. Since I left the Englishman my feet have never once stepped beyond the bounds of New Castile. I love to visit Toledo, and to think of the times which have long since departed ; I should esta- blish myself there, were there not so many accursed ones, who look upon me with an evil eye. Myself. — Are you known for what you are? Do the authorities molest you? Aharhenel. — People of course suspeet me te be what idced, I havo lave coins of crdinand tho iras employed ver, and pre- ain occasions, ■red, and our I eat our food cannot boast fashioned and vered, though I our food for youi-self and ints, who arc d is about to distance ; tho , following me at present ? ay trade occa- ugh I seldom Inglishman my bounds of New ) think of the I should esta- nany accursed u are ? Do the me t« be what ADVENTURES AMONG THE OlPSIES IN SPAIN. 529 I am ; mt as I conform outwardly in most respects to their ways, they do not interfere with me. True it is that sometimes when I enter the church to hear tho mass, they glare at me, over the left shoulder, as mnch as to say — "What do you here?" And gometim'a they cross themselves as I pass by • but ac they go a , further, I do not trouble myself on that account. Wi- h respect to the authorities, they are not bad frien j of mine. Many of the higher class have borrowed *Tn. >ney from me on usury, so that I have them to a c:;vtaiii ex- tent in my power ; and as for the low -.r gurnds oiifl corchctes, they would do any thing to oblige m(r in con- sideration of a few dollars which I occasionally give them, so that matters upon the whole go on ?X'iiork- ably well. Of old, indeed, it was far otherwise; yet, I know not how it was, though other families sufiFered much, ours always enjoyed a tolerable share of trau- quillity. The truth is, that our family has aiwayfi known how to guide itself wonderfully. I may say there is much of the wisdom of tue snake amongst us. We have always possessed friends, and with resi cct to enemies, it is by no means safe to meddle with us ; for it is a rule of our house, never to forgivi; an iiijufT, and to spare neither trouble nor expense m bringing uin and destruction upon the heads of oar h\i\ doeva. Myself. — Do the priests interfere A'lih yoi. ? Aharhenel. — Thyy lefc mo riione, especially in om own neighbourhood. Shortly after the death of my father, one hot-headed individual endeavoured to do me an evil turn, but I soon requited him, causing him to be imprisoned on a charge of blasphemy, and in prison he remained a long time, till he went mad and died ? 1 630 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. Myself. — Have you a head in Spain, in^whom is vested the chief authority ? Abarhenel. — Not exactly. There are, however, cer- tain holy familes who enjoy much consideration ; my own is one of these — the chiefest, I may say. My grandsire was a particularly holv man ; and I have heard my father say that one night an archbishop came to his house secretly, merely to have the satisfaction of kissing his head. '. ■ - / '> • .- Myself. — How can that be? What reverence could an archbishop entertain for one like yourself or grand- sire? Abarhenel. — More than you imagine. He was one of us, at least his father was, and he could never forget what he had learned with reverence in his infancy. He said he had tried to forget it, but he could not ; that the ruah was continually upon him, and that even from his childhood he had borne its terrors with a troubled mind, till at last he could bear himself no longer ; so he went to my grandsire, with whom he remained one whole night ; he then returned to his diocese, where he shortly afterwards died, in much renown for sanctity. Myself. — What you say surprises mo. Have you reason to suppose that many of you are to be found amongst the priesthood ? ^Abarhenel. — Not to suppose, but to know it. There are many such as I amongst the priesthood, and not amongst the inferior priesthood either ; some of the most learned and famed of them in Spain have been of us, or of our blood at least, and many of them at tliie day think as I do. There is one particular festival of the year at which four dignified ecclesiastics are sure to "^Isit ADVENTURES AMONG THE GIPSIES IN SPAIN. 531 in^whom is however, cer- leration; my ly say. My and I have hbishop came satisfaction verence could jjelf or grand- He was one 1 never forget his infancy. ;ould not ; that that even from 'ith a troubled no longer ; so } remained one cese, where he for sanctity, le. Have you ,re to be found now it. There thood, and not ome of the most iave been of us, liem at this day festival of the are sure to ^vsit me : and then, when all is made close and and i have been secur( through, they sit the fitting ceremonies down upon the floor and curse. ^ ' ' Myself. — Are you numerous in the large towns ? Aharhenel. — By no means ; our places of abode are seldom the large towns ; we prefer the villages, and rarely enter the large towns but on business. Indeed, we are not a numerous people, and there are few pro- vinces of Spain which contain more than twenty fami- lies. None of us are poor, and those among us who serve do so more from choice than necessity, for by serving each other we acquire different trades. Not unfrequently the time of service is that of courtship also, and the servants eventually marry the daughters of the house. We continued in discourse the greater part of the night ; the next morning I prepared to depart. My companion, however, advised me to remain where I was for that day. " And if you respect my coimsel," said he, " you will not proceed farther in tliis manner. To- night the diligence will arrive from Estrcmadura, on its way to Madrid. Deposit yourself therein : it is the safest and most speedy mode of travelling. As for your Caballeria, I will myself pure- sse her." Mr. Borrow followed the sensible advice that con- cludes this very extraordinary conversation. On reach- ing Madrid, (February, 1836) he takep lodgings in the house of a fat old woman from Valladolid, whose son, a tailor, is one of the most profligate little fellows wear- ing the uniform of the national guard. NAPOLEON AT THB GREAT ST. DEBNARD. EXCURSION TO THE GREAT ST. BERNARD, BY AN ENGLISH LADY. IIILE visiting Switzerland in the summer of 1850, we were able to realise the long-anticipated pleasure of visiting the renowned Hospice on the top of the Great St. Bernard — an Alpine height where one may be said to look into the nortli of Eu- rope on the one side, and the south, with its sunny skies, on the other. It was about six o'clock in o very delightful morning when we started from Mar tlgny to go upon this interesting excursion. But whilst we have been feasting our eyes with the Bcenery, our civil landlord of La Poste, and his most perfect waiter, have boon waiting to hand us into the curtained char-a-banc which is to convey us to Liddes , after which rauuutain hamlet, the road becomes ira M EXCURSION TO TIIK iillKAT ST. iililXAnD. OOi BERNARD, ;zerland in the^ we wore able mg-anticipated ; the renowned p of the Great Alpine height ) north of Eu- with its sunny c o'clock in o ted from Mar on. • eyes with the , and his most .nd us into the y us to Liddes d becomes im / I practicable for carriages, and we arc to uiuuut our mules. Our road was any thing but solitary, for both ycstcr- le in the coriicr, and soon supplied with deliciou.s veni;>on, milk, i)i(M(l, and a bottle of vin d'Asti, v.hich one l)ntt!e v.as (ijii any St. rerr3\ We ncv ^-r ai'ioi-'.arils had tlu irood fortune when wc railed ('.)i- L-iniJ!:u- wine to same n - r. o!ir cxn. 1 •1- t'Cni'i were very hungry, and did amjile justici: to lent fare. Tiie little room was vorv close frc.n so overcrowded, so that we did not at all regret the departure of the guests, who, with the eAce[)t;o;i oF two Italians, speedily bowed tiiemsohos out of our jivescnce. Edward, not having been hitcly nnicli of a p>edertri;in, doubted his powers to keep up with my niulo and guide, and it was therefore agreed that he slunild pre- cede us at his own leisurely pace ; so with his good oaken staff he also departed. I felt not the least uneasy in being thus left to tho care of my guide, and had never even given a thought to the two Italians, who remained with me in tho Balon. Seated on a sofa, I studied, Avhat my unfailing companion, " Murray's Hand Book," had to say about 45* 534 rERILOtIS ADVENTURES. our route ; and occasionally I glanced anxiously at tho clouds that began to scud across the sky more quickly than I liked. Soon, however, the loud, noisy alter- cation of my companions, drew my attention more to them. One was a fine, tall, athletic man, with a face as dark as a European's could well be ; his hair and moustache, brows and eyelashes, perfectly black. The other was deformed, and had besides a club foot, too plainly made manifest by his pacing in an irritable manner up and down the room. He bit his nails to a painful extent. Both appeared completely to have for- gotten my presence, until the entrance of the land- lady, who, by their orders, brought them some brandy and water, and who looked very hard at me, as if she expected that I would addrc-s lier. But as I had nothing to say, slic slowly retiiod. Tliis slight action, hov.'over, seemed to loniind the two Italians that they were not alone. The club footed man stopped ab- ruptly in his deck-like pacings cxjictly opposite me, making some observations Avhieh I did not understand; but to which, wlion he repeated them in French, I of coiu'.sc replied. His com[)anion walked to the window. "Madam," ho said, " had better decide on remaining at Liddes for the night. It would be impossible for so delicate- looking a lady to face the storm that is now breaking over the mountains. The rush of wind down the nar- ow abyss would unseat her !" " ^Indam will see to perfection the torrent and Avater r:M nftli:' V;.] (): musingly exclaimed Club Foot, to whom 1 had taken an invincible antipathy. This warning only made me the more anxious to iously at tho more quickly noisy alter- tion more to , with a face his hair and bhick. The club foot, too an irritable his nails to a y to have for- of the land- i some brandy me, as if she jut as I had I slight action, ians that they n stopped ab- ' opposite me, ot understand ; 1 French, I of K " Madam," ling at Liddes for so dclicate- now breaking . down the nar- rent and water ned Club Foot, :)atliy. ore anxious to EXCUllSION TO THE GREAT ST. BERNARD. 585 overtake my brother, who had left his overcoat and plaid with me. When, however, I anxiously inquired for the. guide, the only answer I could obtain from both hpst and hostess was, either that he was coming, or that -he could not be found. Thus full half an hour elapsed, whilst the rain beat in torrents against the windows. I lost all patience. I thought of my poor brother exposed to this pitiless storm, and for the fourth time inquired if my guide had not made his ap- pearance. No, he had not ! So I desired that an- other might be procured, as I was most anxious about my brother. All my expostulations were vain. It was evident that, as soon as the door was closed, both host and hostess troubled themselves no more about me. All this time Club Foot seemed heartily to enjoy my vexation ; whilst his friend, sipping his brandy and water, eyed me askant, as if I were some curious study. I got angry, and running down stairs, came full tilt against a boy, who was seeking for shelter in the covered archAvay. " My boy," said I, " do you know Jean Joumont, a guide, who lives here?" He knew him very well ; and, tempted by the reward of a few batzen, brought him to me in less than five minutes. Of course no message had ever been delivered to him from me. It was useless for him or any one to remonstrate, or to entreat me to wait until the storm was over. I had but one object before my eyes ; Edward drenched to the skin, and peering out anxiously for us on an un- known and perhaps dangerous road. So I was con- ducted to the shed where my mule awaited me. En- cumbered as I was with shawls and Tyrappers, it was 636 PERILOUiS ADVENTURES. impossible to spring into the saddle ! Moreover, flung across the creature's back was a sack of provender for its refreshment at the convent, no provision being at- tainable in that sterile, rocky land. How was I to mount ? Ah ! I was told there was the substantial rope-woven dunghill placed most conveniently at the entrance of each Swiss hovel ! Well, many have rise from the same stepping-stone far higher in this good world's estimation than to the back of a mule ; so why should I have objected? Nevertheless I did, and scrambled into my seat as best I could. A dozen kind peasant hands helped to arrange ray coverings ; and as I had insisted upon my ^uide wearinor my ]iiriie Mncin- tosh, the same party fastened it around him with many a laugh and jest at his new costume. As I passed forth beneath the window of the salon, its sash was thrown up, and Club Foot's face was projected thence with a malignant grin, as he congratulated me on the weacher. Of this I should have taken no notice, had I not perceived his companion behind him raising his hat in a manner which made me involuntarily bend my head in token of farewell. With the wind howling around us, and the sleet and rain beating against us, my guide and I reached the wretched hamlet of St. Pierre, where we trusted that Edward had taken shelter. A peasant informed us hat a gentleman answering to this description had gone on towards the hospice. So we pushed forwards, until a shout and merry burst of laughter made us halt under a projecting rock, and where, in its farthest recess, we discovered Edward, perfectly dry, and ex- tremely amused at our forlorn and dripping appear- )reover, flung n'ovender for ion being at- ow was I to e substantial iently at the ly have rise in this good aule ; so -why I did, and A dozen kind ings ; and as larsio Macin- im with many As I passed its sash was jected thence jd me on the notice, had m raising his krily bend my the sleet and reached the trusted that informed us scription had bed forwards, iter made us in its farthest dry, and ex- ping appear- EXCURSION TO THE GREAT ST. BERNARD. 537 ance. At first we felt provoked, but, thinking better of the matter, withdrew to the same shelter until the storm had spent its fury. With the first struggling sunbeam we pursued our route, our guide pointing out to us the spot where Napoleon fell as he preceded lis artillery in 1800, and where he encountered the gi-eatest natural obstacles to his ambitious career across the Alps. We left this route above us, and gladly pursued the " excellent road cut by the Valai- sans across the precipices which overhang the deep course of the Drance. avoiding the steep rises and falls of the old road, and leading us by a safe path Avliich tlieir daring ontrincers have cut out of the rock lluough a savage and appalling defile." The trees and shrubs are now dwarfs in comparison to their brethren of the valleys ; but there is rich pas- turage in the Prou where numerous herds arc feeding. We still ascend, and come on a dreary, naked scene : not a blade of grass, not a sign of vegetable life ; brown rocks, snow, and ice. We shiver, our teeth chatter, and we draw our mantles more closely about us : my feet are benumbed. Six hours ago we could hardly endure the heat ! We ask anxiously if that enormous mass of rock, which seems to shut out ah further egress from the vallev, is not the Great St. Bernard. No; it is Mount A^elau, and the guide points out the thread-like pathway. We have now reached the last human habitation ere we arrive at the hospice — a small inn that can only be inhabited in summer. I gladly enter to draw more stockings over my frozen feet. The peasants within are laughing, •iRucing, and drinking; the good-natured hostess pulls 638 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. a blanket off her bed, and tucks me in it upon the mule. Three Piedmontese with returned mules joined us here. One, a very handsome lad, sat with his face to his mule's tail, in order to converse more freely ■with his companion who followed. Edward had also mounted a returned mule by the guide's advice, and ho headed our party, all winding along the edge of the reck in Indian file. Be the road ever so wide, the male chooses the edge; they derive this habit from being taught, when carrying burdens, to keep as far from the mountain-wall as possible : the least concus sion against it would overbalance them on a narrow pathway, and would hurl them over the precipicos The Drance must now bo crossed oveV that wooden plank; but is it wood or ice? The meriy back-rider shouts ' Coraggio Signora !' and slipping and sliding, we venture over, and are safe on the other side. And as we still climb the icy pathway, my guide points to a small hollow between two rocks, and tells that had it not been for the Brethren of St. Bernard, he would have died there three years a^o. He, with two other men had urgent business to transact at Aosta, which lies on the other side of the Pass of the Great St. Bernard. It was in the spring, when the sun's influ- ence detaches the avalanches from their snowy beds, and when, therefore, it is the most dangerous time to travel in their vicinity. It was a dull day when they set off for Oasieres, but they did not anticipate rain : at Liddes, however, a drizzling mist fell round them, "which by the time they had reached the miserable inn, where I had been lent the blanket, had turned into elect and snow. The house was not yet occupied, ifc I J EXCUnSlON TO THE GUKAT f-T. liKIlNAUD. 539 it upon the nulcs joined vitli his face more freely ird had also Ivicc, and ho edge of the so wide, tho habit from keep as far least concus on a narrow e prccipicos that wooden IV back-rider and sliding, sr side. And lide points to Is that had it ird, he would ith two other Aosta, which he Great St. le sun's influ- snowy beds, jrous time to ly when they ticipate rain : round them, niserable inn, I turned into t occupied, ij being too early to venture a residence there. So they pushed onwards, never speaking, for fear the sound of their voices should detach the loosened masses of snoAV tnat slightly adhered to the mountain's sides, and con- gratulating themselves each in his heart that thus far they had safely journeyed towards the hospitable walls ' of the convent, where they were sure of a welcome for the night. But on crossing the Drance, to their utter dismay all traces of the path to the convent had been obliterated by the recent fall of snow : to return to Liddes was hopeless ; the shades of evening were clo- sing in fast upon them. With beating hearts and uncertain steps they sought for the lost path in every (livcction — in vain. Terrified and bewildered, they seemed to be hunting in a magic circle. At last Jean declared that he had discovered it ; the other two maintained he was mistaken ; but he toiled onwards until, as his friends had refused to follow him, he lost faith in himself, and, as he expressed it, sank upon the ground Avith a ' dying heart ;' and whence he instantly slipped down a shelving projection of the rock. His last recollection was hearing a terrific exijlosion, as if the solid rock had been rent from its base, and of his agonizing struggle to extricate himself from the soft, yielding snow, which, the more he wrestled with it, the more efi'ectually wrapped him in its stifling embrace. He had a sensation of forever sinking — sinking ! — and he remembered no more as all consciousness forsook him. The monks of the hospice were out in that awful hour on their charitable mission, as is their usual custom. Provided with lanterns, and carrying vials of 540 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. restoratives, and accompanied by their dogs, they had sallied forth, in quest of any helpless travellers who, like Jean and his companions, might have lost their way across that dreary solitude. The unerring instinct of the dogs led them' to the place where Jean was buried. They burrowed beneath the snow, scenting their course ; whilst their long bushy tails rising above its surface told their masters at times where to follow them. When close to our poor guide's body, they commenced whining and scratching the ground. Forth- with the monks dug into the snow-heap, and discovered him almost dead ! He was placed on a stretcher, and carried by them to the hospice, where they tended him with all tenderness for the following three weeks that he struggled between life and death. But notwith- standing all their skill he has never fully recovered the shock ; and his eyes are ever most painfully affected by the snow. Most fortunate it was for him that he EXCUUSION TO THE ClUEAT ST. BEnNAllD. '41 )gs, they had ivellers who, lost their way g instinct of n was buried, lenting their ling above its 3re to follow 3 body, they ound. Forth- nd discovered stretcher, and sy tended him ee weeks that But notwith- recovered the afuUy affected r him that he had slipped into this crevice of the rock ; for the ava- lanche had rolled harmlessly over it : an instant later, and he would have been inevitably crushed to death. His companions were found close to the hospice, but in the blinding snow-storm had failed to discover its proximity: they had been walking about to keep off sleep, but were at last yielding to its fatal influence, and in despair had thrown themselves on the ground. It was with a species of veneration for its inhabitants that I gazed upon the low massive stone-walls of the Hospice of St. Bernard, which at the conclusion of my guide's story, appeared in view. Here, 8200 feet above the level of the sea, live a community of reUgieux, who, young, accomplished, with every feel- ing alive to the enjoyments of the world, still volunta- rily devote themselves to a life of toil and dangers. In the spring and summer time of their existence, when * youth at the prow and pleasure at the helm' beckon their bark forwards to sail on the stream of pleasure, they cast their anchor on this tempest-shaken rock, heart and soul, giving themselves up to the service of those fellow-beings, who, in this dreary but frequented pass of the mountains, would inevitably perish without their aid. For here, across this savage solitude, is the great peasant thoroughfare between Italy and Switzer- land ; across this pass come our organ-boys, our dor- mice-bearers, and those children of the south who swarm our streets. Almost all can tell, with raised caps in sign of reverence, that they have been wel- comed on their homeless road by ' Our Brethren of St. Bernard!' Without such aid hundreds would have perished. Even in the depths of winter such wander- 46 nnuLous adventures. c ers are forced to seek its shelter; and the hospice has never been known to be witliout its guests. As Tve rode up to the low dwelling, one of the breth- ren stood at the door, bidding farcAvell to a party of tra- vellers. We alighted, and craved his hospitality for the night. Ho was a young man of two-and-thirty, with a pale countenance and delicate frame ; and yet ho braved the midnight storm in the cause of charity ! his dress struck me, woman-like, at once, as being most becoming. A long frock-coat, fastened down the front with large buttons, and descending even to the ankles ; full sleeves falling over tightv. ^nes of the same mate- rial ; a white collar, worked bead-fr . hion with black ; and a linen scarf, with black silk ends, thrown grace- fully across the chest, composed an attire at once most clerical and most gentlemanly. He raised his velvet cap with courteous grace to welcome us, and expressed his pleasure at receiving an English gentleman and lady within* the walls of the hospice. He was tho clavendier, or the brother deputed to welcome and enter- tain travellers. He laughed heartily at my blanket, and at once ushered me into the receptipn-hall — a largo room hung with pictures, the gifts of travellers, and furnished solely with a long table and chairs — after which he hastened to conduct Edward into a sleeping- apartment, where he might change his thoroughly- oaked boots. By the wood-fire, at the end of the hall, were crouched two Aosta girls. Immediately on my en- trance they rose, and offered me a seat between them, commencing a conversation in semi-Italian and French perfectly charming, so free was it from forwardness ■I I EXCURSION TO THE GREAT ST. BERNARD. 543 he hospice has ;s. c of the hrcth- a party of tra- pitality for the nd-thirty, with and yet ho of charity ! his as being most down the front to the ankles ; the same mate- 3n with black ; , thrown grace- re at once most dsed his velvet I, and expressed gentleman and . He was tho come and enter- at my blanket, 3n-hall — a largo ' travellers, and id chairs — after into a sleeping- his thoroughly- , were the hall ;ely on my en- b between them, lian and French ora forwardness ■■ and its opposite extreme, sullen reserve. These maid- ens, with their golden-bodkined hair, were enchanted when they found that I had come from England ; for at first they had taken me for a Frenchwoman. England with them was synonymous with gold ; and many and curious, though not at all impertinent, were the questions they plied me with. " Was it quite true that, though wo all did as we liked, we would dio for our Queen ? Was she very pretty?" I replied, it Avas quite true that we all loved our Queen, and women as well as men would fight for her were it necessary : that our Queen was a fair, blue-eyed lady, with skin so dazzingly white, that when the ermine of her royal robe had rested on her shoulders it looked to me yellow in comparison. Upon this the two maidens raised their own sunburnt hands, and nodded their heads, until their long earrings swayed to and fro with the motion. Soon the clavendier joined us, and, rather to my dis- may, every word of my conversation was volubly poured forth into his attentive ears by those Aosta maidens. He entered into their interest about trifles with childlike heartiness, but soon turned to other sub- jects ; and I found him perfectly acquainted, not only with the graver topics of the day, but also with our light literature, poetry, and recent discoveries. In all this the peasant girls mixed with a propriety, where they understood the subject, Avhich would have as- tonished me had I not met with it before. They soon, however, took their leave, not without giving me a pressing invitation to bring my brother and see their beautiful Aosta. In the retirement of my own room, 644 PERILOUS ADVENTURES. where I was now conducted, I could not but marvel at myself; here for an hour had I been chatting away with the monk and these peasant maidens without re- straint — I, whom Edward is continually lecturing on eserve and hauteur. [ >t but marvel at chatting away lens without re- A\j lecturing on