IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h // // .> # 4^ ^ W ^1 iP.r f/ 5^ «/. 1.0 I.I 1.25 '-I'M 1125 It m I. IIM 12.0 LI lllll 1.6 V] <^ /^ "%" >> ,>» f^ /^ y «^ <^ ;\ \ ^9) cS\ 'O "r Pb^ <> r^^ r^>N i<' €p.. s CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical Notes / Notes techniques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Physical features of this copy which may alter any of the images in the reproduction are checked below. n Coloured covers/ Couvertures de couleur Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Certains ddfauts susceptibles de nuire A la quality de la reproduction sont not6s ci-dessous. 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Temagaming the Peerless FALLS OK MATTAWAIilKA. In the Land of Hiawatha -^ ti ISSl'El) IIY CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY nido % ■^ I ^ H €anoe Crip for 1900* ^'Isblng, Sbooting, Scenery. rUAISKS of Lake TcmiskuiniiiK liiive )) '"^ -- already been Huiig bv sportsiueii who liave \isite(l it, ami altlioiigh the deseriptidiis liave bi't'ii eouclied in languiige of a snperlative kind, yet tlicy linve been lioiu'st exi)fes.>jions of deliglited pif^eatoiial hunuinity and iJatislied Xinirods. Hut there is a greater and more beantifnl lake than even TeMiiskaniing, and, as many readers are looking fur iiints as to wiiere they siiali do tiieir lisiiing and canoeing tiiis year, I am abont to describe it. The lake for whieli I claim transcendental beauty is Temagaming (mark the difference between Temiska"ming and Temagaming), and 1 make the assertion in spite of knowing well that comj)arisons are odious, and in spite of the physical fact that either in going to or connng from Temagaming T.ake you should pass through Temiskaming, Temiskaming is about forty miles east of Temagaming, but where is Temagaming? To find out, take the newest map of the Province of Ontario, Canada. The newest I could find was the folder of the Canadian Pacific Kail- way. On the first map of the two in the folder find .Sault Ste. IMarie, at the east end of Lake Superior, and draw a straight line on the folder from Sauit Ste. Marie to the mouth of the Saguenay River on the (iulf of St. Lawrence. Then find Buffalo, N.Y., and draw another straight line at right angles to the lir.st. The second line will run a little east of north. The two lines will meet near Bear Island, a Hudson Bay post in the centre of Lake Temagaming. This ideal lake is shaped like a chrysanthemum, whose pistil is Bear Island, and whose petals, extending in every direction, enable us (on a lake which is not over fifty miles across in any direction) to travel several hundreds of miles without visiting the same spot twice. And this gigantic chrysanthemum would be the most beauti- fully variegated specimen conceivable — its background a blue of Mediterranean hue, every petal fringed with the loveliest greens of pine, balsam, young ])oi)lar, silver birch, tamarac, spruce, and maple. And how delightfully tiiis colossal llower changes with the seasons as the greens of sunnuer alter to the piidv and gold of autunui, both on the fringe and on the thou, sands of beautiful spots spattered on the ])etals, which spots are the countless densely-wooded islands, whose infinite variety sets off the glorious expanse of blue. Even in winter, when the lake becomes a great wiiite expanse and the islands look like green leaves scattered in profusion over its bosom, it is lovelv. V TKM.\n, (iii(>bec, on Teini^iUaniing Lake, wliicli is the lionndary line between the Provinces of Quebec and Ontario. At Teniiskaniing Station is a surprisingly good modern hotel, the Ik>lle\ue House. To Teniiskaniing one can either bring one's own canoe or arrange jireviously through the Canadian Pacific Ky. to supply the [larty with canoes, Indians, etc. .Supplies should be bought in the most convenient Can- adian town, which for New Knglanders would ])e INIontreal. for western New York, Toronto, and for Michigan and south thereof it would be Sault Ste. JMarie, Ontario, but IIaileybur> can supply most ordinary wants. l.OOKINd 11' Tin: DTTAWA lilVKIt. CANADIAN rACIFU' liAll.WAV. There are several comfortable steamers that will take men from Temiskaming to Haileybury, or other ])orts on the upper part of the lake. There are two routes, one by the IMi'tabecha- wan and the other by Haileybury and the Montreal River. I would recommend the longer by Thiileybury and tbe Montreal river, because it brings us through matchless Lady Evelyn Lake, an exquisite gem in a magnificent setting, and by the Devil's Mountain and Island, not to have seen whicli is to have missed the most attractive portion of tbe jaunt, and then one can return to Lake Temiskaming by the Metabechawan River, thus covering both tl o^e beautiful routes. Temagaming is far above tlie average in its beauty, its fish, and its l)ig game, moose, deer, and bear. With its ],I>4.5 (to be accurate) beautifully-wooded islands, with natural spring beds of one foot deep of moss and lichens, with its clear and cool waters, with their dense population of trout, bass, and dore, Temagaming lias made almost every one of the tourists who have visited the lake give vent to their feelings in language something like that contained in the following (entered by the visitors themselves), which extracts I took from tlie register kept by the Hudson Bay factor at Bear Island, on Lake Tema- gaming. IIIK ilAt.NTKU IHl.t FOUND ON THE REGISTER Dr. Fri'd Wiilker Liwyor and Mrs. (Jwyer, New York City : •' Fair and beautiful Teiiiagaiiii." Colin Rankin and Frank Hawkcn : " Wo agree with all the good things herein said of Tcniagaiiii." H. S. Ilawkinn, Cleveland, ()., Horace Iliggins : •' r.elieve Teniaganii Lake to be just out of si^ht." A lUiffalo party returns a second lime. T. Wistar IJrown returns a second time, lldwin W. Hale, Cleveland, O., Newton M. Ander.«on, Cleveland, O., Donald C. Scott, Toledo. C). : "No nicer place than Temaganii." Moses lirown, Wiil Panesont, •loe Clement, lMiiladeli)liia, Pa , : " Endorse all good things said about Lake Temaganii." .1. liussell S|)eer, A. M. Speer, C. M. Spang, K. W. Bis.sell, a Toronto party, recommend " line scenery, good fishing, and bears." Harry W. Evenden. Park Place, Eastbourne, Eug., and h. < ). Armstrong, Montreal: " Think the half has never been told (jf its attractions." The fishing throughout my trip was the best leverliad. Brook trout in the small streams and three kinds of magnifi- cent lake trout. Our party of ten sat down to a dinner at whicii a fifty-live pound trout was served. 1 reluctantly admit, however, that one of the Indians caught him, and not the writer. THE HAUNTED ISLE 1 have referred to the beauty of Temagaming Lake aiul Islands. Perhaps the most interesting part is al)out Devil's Island, with the adjacent Devil's IMountain and (i ■ "s Island. The Indians firmly believe that Granny's Ishu' • is haunted. There is a stone upon it which resembles a sr , which natural statue is the special diabolical residence. All the Indians appease Her Majesty when they are forced to pass by with tobacco, pipes, etc. Time forbade my becoming more intimate with the scpiaw-pocse.wsed. I hope to visit her again, however. The Indians call her Kokomis, Mrs. Devil. My Indian guide had told me in May, at Temagaming, that in August the bass would, figuratively spi-aking, junij) into any boat in which one of its occipants chanced to be wearing a red tie. I had treasured this figure of speech in my mind, and been sorely tempted by it, but as often had succeeded in resisting the temptation, being helped by the knowledge that if I went I should have to go alone, and, whenever I am enjoy- ing superlatively fine scenery and good fishing or shooting, I crave companionship in the enjoyment. From New York, Buffalo or Boston to Teniiskaming Lake means twenty-four hours in the train, with an hour's stop-over at Mattawa on the Ottawa Kiver, the cars being comfortable and the scenery good all the way. At Teniiskaming Station we left a surprisingly comfortable hotel to take an equally surprising steamer to Haiieybury, at the upper end of the lake. Almost too short seemed the journey of seventv^-five miles. We arrived there on Sunday morning, and found a well-to-do settlement, there beingamong the settlers some highly-cultured people from England. Out of respect to their tlioroughly church-going liabiis, out of awe of the jmrson, and because we were strongly attracted by the people, with whom we spent a « rKMAUA.MIMI IIIK rKRHl,K.M^< innst enjoyable day pocially, we dckTiiiiiu'd to wail until Monday nioiiiinj^ at llailcybiiry, and go tocluircli. We left Haileybnry on the twenty-Hecond day of August. Altliougli we liad made many (inn and alnioHt reli<.jiouH ivsolu- tionsto leaveat r)..'!0( we weretoget upat liveo'elock, be dres^'ed in i(>n minutes, and leave after a full twenty ndiniteH of break- fast), tlie serving out of ])aeks to tlie men, and thorough distri- bution and loading ui) of our luggage, tfxik all the time up to 7.;^0 y'cl"ck; at which hour we styitcd. The lirst stage; of the journey was a tniinp of six miles, our Yankee bov of fourteen insisting ujmn carrying a ride for four miles, when he reluctantly gave it up to the writ<'r. At half past ten o'clock the party reached the lire Ranger's cabin at I-ake Sharp, every one IxMiig in a greater or lessei' state of perspiration, although the tlay was cool and pleasant. Our luggage was carried in a waggon. The Indians each carried a canoe over those six miles with ap])iir(Mit'y as nnich ease as we did oiu' rifles and tishing-rods. I may mention that we here opened up our onttit of provis- ions, and found it to be excel- lent, good in quality, sutlici- ent in quantity, and easily cai- rit'd. It would be too long a list for insertion here, but I shall be hap],y to for- ward it to any one about to travel the same way . A 1 1 h o ug h Lake Ti-magam- ing was our des- tination, and we had decided not to loiter on our jotn-ney, T determined to have a little fishing in Lake h^harp, which is about two miles long, as I specially wanted to try an artificial minnow that I had bought from an old fisherman in little Saint Antoine Street, IMontreal, over whose iloor is the legend, "God save the Queen, and all honest Fishermen." He told me that he had begun to make flies and artificial minnows at twelve years of age, and had made them for seventy two years, also that this was the best minnow he had ever made. I took him to be an octogenarian fraud, but when 1 landed the first fish, a fuie pickerel, upon my first cast of the minnow, I mentally apologized to my old friend. The lead was easily kept with that minnow over the most tempting flies and most taking spoons, with which the excellent fis'^er- meu from Syracuse and Rochester so skilfully whipped the lake • I'm NOTCH OF TIIR MONTP.F.AI, niVKR, NEAR I.AKIO TK.MISKAMINO. M()NTI{i:\L KIVKK Lake Wlnup gave our party plenty of tinh but notliing but pickerel (or a.s the (^anadiati calls it, dore) and piko. We arrived at the foot of Lake Sharp at 1 30, and made a short portage and an easy one into Lake Ajickigniniiiw. uliicli was at -'.'JO. The next laki^ was hiiuiII aiui took ns only al)oiit hall' an hour to croHH. Here we found more pickerel and (lore. After a short i)ortage we reiehed tlit^ .Montreal liiver, which is a One stream. Leaving for our trip up this river at live minutes to foiu- o'clock, wc reached the foot of the first rai)id at 4.40 p.m. Hero we cauj^ht plenty of very gamy bass, and the faint shadow of disappointment that hail . "Settled over the counteuaucos of our lishermen disappe'ared. Up to this.we had caught plenty of fish, hut few bass. "Now this will do," said Syracuse. "All right," saitl Cleveland, and i'\(iryl)ody else felt that the fishing, canoes, Indians, grub and temperature were right indeed ; heaven was smiling upon us. Incidentally I may mention a proposition I made while here, and which was adopted as one of the statutes in our temporary constitution, viz : That a heavy penalty should be iiillicted on anyone killing nii.rr hiv.-A {!;;;:; r/.ir ciglit white men and eight Indians together could consume. \ provision was that more bass could be caught, if tlu-y were returned to their native elem.:nt at once, only time enough being given the (isherman for one gloating look and one guess as to his weight. A live-ndiuites' portage carried ns over the second rapid, and then we had supper. Only one day out, but a genuine torest appiitite was Ijeginning to make iiseif felt. 'A'e nuule a mistake here ; we should have slept at this portage, for the Indians had already done a heavy day's work, but we were to(. anxious to reach Lake Temagamiiig to stop with two hours' dayliglit before us, so we cimtiuued until nearly eighto'clock before cam i)ing. This tireil our men a little too mucli for the first day, allhougli they did not grumble. It was an economical mistaki;. .lust as \vv. neared the camp our Yankee boy killed a porcupine with a revolver, of which feat he was very proud. We tritul to eat the porcu|)iue, but our cook made a failure of that dish — his oidy failure. The picturesipu' camp, the jxircu- pine, and the fish just caught that day were ])hotographed by flashlight before turning in for the night. We had two excel- lent lOx 12 tents, bought in Montreal, and four white men for each tent. The Indians had their own. We had almost too much room, but that is a luxury w hich is easily borne, and the tents were not t lo heavy. Many will sympathize with us in the delight we experi- enced at being in an uninhabited country ; uninhabited, that is, except by those oldest families of the North, the Algonquin Indians. Our own men were a splendid lot of fellows. One of them carried seven bags of Hour on his back at one time over a portage. He was six feet two in height, stout in proportion, and as intelligent and modest as he was big. Headers, when yon canoe that way ask for tlu^ Indian, Willy Paulson. Most of these Indiana have had more or less experience in travelling with the Hudson Bay factor, and each Hudson Day factor is more or less of a Mikado in his make-up and his habits. He travels in gieat pomp; he has two paddling Indians for his own canoe and two other Indians, generally, in another canoe, TAMAUAHINU iHK I'KEKLKMh vvilli II I'iiiiip I'liuipa^i-, bill liici IiiopI, t-l)liHli \Mi) in U) Uavfl in a very largo war canoe, witli a iiumuruUH crew. Thia Northorn Mikado luiH a cook for hiiusi'lf, and another cook for tlic Indiana. Upon landing tor dinner tiic lirnt care is for Miy ioril ; tin; bass just caiiglit and the choicest of the game iH, of coiirHc, for him, and i)erha|)s rightly enough as the world wags, both heiv aiul elsewhere. At night his tent is j^it np lirst. Malsani houghs aic cut, and placi'il so as to give him a sjjringy lusl a foot thick, and very springy and comfortable it is. All thia is done while his cook is pri'paring his dinner, lie dines late while travelling to save valuable mid-ilay time. The Illusion Bay Company, London, keeps very old wines and li(iuors of every description, which it distril)utes among its posts in the North in a liberal manner, so that the traveller, who has the good tortinie to enjoy the liospitality of the THE IJTOIAN LOVE LETTER AND POST OFI-RK. Hudson Bay factor, can comfort the inner man most ihonnigh- ly at these oases in the wilderness. Our Indians had travelled with the factor, and they had learned the art of pleasing the canoeist and camper almost to perfection. I say, almost, because they could not for a long time treat us with quite as much consideration as they did the Hudson Bay Company factor, but after that " long time" had elapsed, when they were promised that each one of the eiglit Indians should become the owner of one of the suits in which the eight white men were travelling, anil when, moreover, they were told that tlie best Indian should he ])re.«ented with a really good briar- root pipe, with amber mouthpiece, tlieir behavior attained perfectibility. Before taking up our second day's journey, I should like to give a little incident which occurred at our dinner place at the portage. While there we found, in a stake driven into the INDIAN l.llVK I.KTTER AM) I'OhT OFFICK UilVt'l This T cook L'uri! is ■ game wnrUl ground nnfl split nt tlip top, two Tmlinn lovo letters, written on bircli hurl<, one lx'iii|JC H>v«Tal wcclxs old, the other of quite recent date. The first wns written in tlio mont'- of strawberries, the otlicr in the iimiitii ui the nuts, whicli was our month. Tiie Indians are innocintof dates. Our missionary translaled these letters for us. It may have been a mean thinj; to do, but we did not think so then, neitiicr do I now, berause we did not move in the same eirele, and would certainly not use the infor- mation to the social annoyance or detriment of either of the parties. The letter he^'au with "Dear little Dore" this fish is a favorite with the Indian'^, and it was the most endeariiit; term that he could think of), " I lov(( you dearly ; I want to see you so much, oh, very much ! I called at your Asohanau (the Indian name for home), hut you were absent." And then he uses su|M'rlatives, just as oiu- lovers df), swean: eternal loyalty, and tells her he will come back in ten days. He conies back tay Lake, from whose agent we bought one or two items of which we imagined ourselves in need, but our real motive was to repay the hos])itality we had received, having taken refuge I here liom tlui rain. At 10.40 a.m. we left the post, and arrived at the portage at Pork Kapids at 11.35 a.m. Hy this time th(> Indians had given us all Indian names. One of our party bears the nana,' of Cottiju ( Wahiskigin), and the Indians speak of last night's camp as Wabiskiginens-o-kakanonagam, the ])lace where the little piece of cotton killed the i)orcu])ine. Of course it was Mr. Cotton's fourteen-year-old son of whom they were speaking. Most of that day was spent in travelling through l>ay Lake, which was very impressive with its vista views of bluffs, stand- ing out in regular echelon array on each side, the effect being intensified by the absolute cahnness of the water and the misty atmosphere. At 4.1.") in the afternoon we arrived at Mat\awabika Falls. If I remember rightly, the meaning of the Indian word is " the meeting-place where the rock divides the waters into falls." Montreal I\iver, and the river which is an outlet to Lndy lOvelyn Lake, hero form a landscape of river, lake, waterfall, moss and lichen covered rock, and green trees of many tints that I can never forget, and we were so successful with our photographs that the beautiful and bold outlines will ever be with us, even though theglorious coloring exist only in memory. The fishing here was very good, and indeed it is everywhere. It rained as we started out on beautiful Lady Evelyn Lake. This I rpgretted very much, because we had heard its beau'ies described by sober-minded and thoroughly reliable iieople. \l 10 TA MAG AMINO THE PEERLESS. Evon in llio mist and the fading daylight one could realize something of what its attractions would be in fine weather. There ar'> no good cami)ing places immediately after leaving Mattawiibika Fall^l, but two or three miles down the lake in a sheltered inlet between two islands, we found a comfortable spot, where we pitched our tents in the lain. ]5ut almost everywhere in this country one liuds dry fuel, and it takes but little iire to dry one's self, however damp, or even wet, we may be. We had done amit.ier long day's work, but had i)lenty of good food, tobacco, and an amiile supi)ly of boughs to slee])ui)on. Every num in the party was almost more than well, and, con- sequentl- every one " slept the sleeji of the just." We left camp at 7.15 in the morning, which is about as early as a large party can manage to leave, with dishes for sixteen men to wash and stow away after cooking breakfast, four tents to pitch, and the impedimenta of guns, rods, and photograph- ing outiit to stow away in canoes. Next day was lovely, with a bright sun modified by clouds, which niadea good iihotographing day, w hile excpiisite scenery, bordering on the grand, surrounded us all the time. At Obisaga Narrows, at 10.-15 in the morning, we camjied on a lovely' island, in orderto have time for a swim and to do some ])hotograpliiiig before dinner. I swam in Temagaming Lake on May 9tb, when the water was cold. It was lovely eveiy day in August and Sejitember, during our stay. We left at l.'M) p.m., passing through Lady Evelyn Lake to the portage which separates Lady Evelyn from the almost equally lovely Diamond Lake. At b.'M) the portage was com- l>l('ted, and tiie jiarty al)out ready to traverse the lattei'. It was while waiting for the Indians to carry over our stuff that the Rochester fi.sherinan, looking down into the clear waters of Diamond "ake, saw a number of bass from the bank quite plainly. determined to catch the heaviest of these, and succeececi in getting a beautiful three-pounder, which the writer cai'ight wiih a snap-s!iot, when the fish was halfway out of water, making a very interesting photograph for future days. It was very enjoyable to witness the playing of that bass by the experienced fisherman ; every dive for liberty, evcy attempt to get behind a rock, every wicked shake of the liead and fierce flop of that bas.s' tail, was clearly seen in ten or fifteen feet of water, so that the bite, the leap, the struggle, the landing, and the death were all witnessed distinctly. Talkingof death, there may be some of my readers who do not know how absolutely necessary it is, in order to fully enjoy the flavor, that a lish should be killed immediately u))on itsl)eing landed in the boat, either by being struck upon the head, or by driving a knife through the braiPi. To allow it to (he slowly distinctly affects the flavor of any lish, and it is cruel. We cam])ed on a magnificent island in Diamond Lake. Near the water the rock is so flat and smooth that a couitle of sets of lancers cotdd be danced upon it. From this smooth and level rock the island rose gradual Iv to a wooded knoll. The water of the lake was absolutely pure to drink and in all our journey of fifteen days from Boston to Temiskaming and return we did not once have anything but the purest water. ^\ mMi'MJA devil's mountain. 11 /v On Tlinrsday, August 25th, we left camp at 5.40 in the morning, before breakfast, intent upon reaching tliat night Fatlier Puradis' farm. This was my clerical friend and fellow sportHUian, ex-professor of mathematics, artist, colonizer, and present-day farmer, who has had enterprise enough to start a large farm on the north-east corner of Lake Temagaming, otherwise called Sandy Bay, because of the level, sandy lieach, as long and as hard to walk upon as that of Old Ochard in This was the hard day of the journey. We arrived at the last portage at (1.10 in the morning. This portage takes about lifteen mimites. It is a little ditlicnit and rather rocky. We left the portage at 0.5" in the morning, in the rain. There is a portage, a very short cut, here into Sandy Inlet, i)ut it was so overgrown with trees from want of use that the Indians told us tha^ it was almost impassable, and we determined to paddle all the way around by Devil's Mountain, sixteen miles, ratherthan attempt it. The wind freshened into a gale ; the rain came down steadily on a bitter slant. The writer was in the largest of the four canoes, which needed a third paddle to enable it to keep up with the three smaller boats, and we had to paddle al- together twenty-two miles in the face of the gale — steady, hard work, because the reli'iitless wind drove us before it the wrong way, if we stopped for a monumt. Ihtwever, at noon we reached Father Paradis' house, and found there stoves, cows, a garden with its vegetables, all for our own use, and once more all was w(!ll that ended well. The little bark canoes are wonderful sea boats. We roimded some points and cut across some bays with so heavy a sea that one miglit have thought it impossible for .^o frail a craft to live, but there are very many pretentious rowboats that will not stand as much as a bark canoe. It was not necessary to do si. as w<^ could have found shelter anywhei'e on the road. There is, however, a limit to what the l)ark canoe will bear. The Cleveland lislierman was determined to catch one of the sixty pound trout, which are sometimes caught here. He hired the farmer's son who look him out, with a very heavy-weighted troll, but we were not fated to know whether there were any big trout in the bay waiting for the Kochestor champion. The lishernian's l)oy had thoughtfully i)repared Mr. Cleveland a seat who.«e foundation was so secured that, upon sitting his comfort- able proportion upon it, it rolled ovi-r, and in a moment the canoe was on top and the man under. This necessitated the secontl complete change of raiment, and we had to thank the great run on dry garnients for excellent models. Our host entertaiu'Ml us by showing ns a large number of ex- (piisite water-colors — rare bits of Northern mountain and lake scenery. On Friday, the tweaty-sixth day of August, our party separ- ated in the morning, t'.,o canoes going to Devil's ^lountain to photogiapii. There is in addition to Devil's "Nhjuntain, Devil's Island, and also Granny's, or Kokomia' Isles, Mrs. Devil's peculiar property. The white man has never married the Devil to anybody. The Indians believe that he was married, and that his wife being a little bit better than he, her virtues drove her from him ; he chased her to the shore at Devil's Mountain, where she plunged into the water and swam to the island, which 12 rKMAGA.MING THE I'EKRI.ESS now bears her name. His diclike to clear, cool water prevented him from followinj;, but he revonj^cd himself by turning lier in- to stone, assliesat grieving over his cruelty, and there her statue remains to this day. It really is a striking piece of rock, of which we obtained an excellent ])hotograph. Nothing would induce the Indians to sleep U])on the island, and no camp-lire has ever been lighted upon it. Devil's IMountain is a bluff a thousand or more feet high. It was down that mountain that the Devil chased his wife that day. It is near the centre of the lake, and from it magniliceiit views may be had in every direc- tion. The climbing was easy, and we wi're moi'e than reward- ed by the views that we were able to take from the elevation. Showers of rain came at intervals, and (jur light was not perfect, hut, nevertheless, we made most interesting views. When our appetizing can of bouillon was si)ilt by accident that day the Indians said it was Kokomis that did it. Our camping-])]ace at the foot of this mountain is an ideal spot for a villa or hotel, and we shall see one or other here be- fore many seasons go by. Altogether, in an e.\]ierience of twenty years, dui'iug wiiich time I liave never failed anmially to mak(^ one or two tri])s in some new di- rection to some sununer or_sporting I'e- sortthat])roui- ised to be at tr^^(• t]i v'e, 1 thought that 1 liad never tra- veled through a district tliat I liked so nuich^as"'this one,' viz.: the Lake l/fe ma- gaming region, northwest of Hostou. 's i X hundred miles; west of tlu' Upper Ottawa Kiver, in Can- ada, al m OS t tw^-nty miles ; KOKO.MIS, WUO HAINTS IIIK IS1.ANI>. almost due north of I'uffalo, three hundred miles. You can reach it from the steamer by twenty miles of canoeing ; and fortunately for the sportsman and lover of natur(>, it cannot just now be reached in any other way. Several years ago I took up a pamphlet, published by the government of the province of Ontario, on their farming lands. In this intensely practical book I found the following descrip- tion of Temagaming Lake, and I thought if the writer in the midst of liis prosaic detail should lind room for'this description of the non-agricultural Temagaming Lake country that itnnist. indeed, l)e an enticing spot. I (piote him ; CAMPING ON TEMAGAMINW KIVEK. 13 TEMAGAMl LAKE, NlPISflNG DISTRICT. " There is very little'agricultural land on the shores or this lake, and it is unUkelj' tliat the district comprising it Mill ever be opened for settlement. Nevertheless, this work would be incomplete without some mention of Temagarai Lake, which some explorers have declared to be, from a picturesque point of view, the finest lake in America. It is situated on the height of land or watershed between the waters that flow into Lake Huron and those that go to the Ottawa. It has two outlets, one flowing north t(^ the IMontreal lliver, thence into the Ottawa; the other, at the south end, by the Sturgeon and French Rivers into Georgian Bay. It formerly had another outlet on the east towards the Ottawa lliver, and yet another on the west to Lake Huron, and if anything should occur to raise the waters of the lake a few feet, these two outlets would again flow. " Temagai'ii Lake lies northwi'steriy about twenty miles from Temlskaming Station. It is over thirty miles long, and Ihirtv in breadth, and its waters are translucent as crystal ; its r.\Ml'IX(i ON Ti:.M.V(iAMIN(; lUVlCIt. shores in must iihices liold and precii)itous, with many bays and arms running off for miles in all (iirectious. Its surface is studded with most beautiful islands to the number of thirteen hundred or more. Its waters are lilled with all kinds of game lish. Altogether, with its elevation, bracing air, and romantic scenery, it appears to have the makings of an ideal summer resort in it. A Hudson's 15ay post has teen established here some sixty or seventy years." I thought tins the most favorable testimony in its favor, from the sportsman's point of view. Here, I saivl, is a virgin lake, and such have we all found it to be, and such it will remain. At this Devil's Mountain Camp I propose, in 1000, if I am alive and sound, to make a gathering of sportsmfen, and to have the grandest moose hunt of the decade. II IKMAHAMINO THK PEERLKfK. We left Devil's island at l.'^O in the morning, and arrived at Bear Island at 9.30, where the Hudson's Bay agent has a store which furnishes supplies. Here we patched our canoes, which were leaky. "We left it at noon, and ran down into Island Bay, and camped near there on Saturday night on a beautiful sandy point to the west of High Rock Island. This was a memorable Saturday iiight when we spent many profitable hours before turning in to our very comfortable camps. Our photographer excelled himself in the photograph of this camp. Here we left Temagaming Lake f >r TemagiVuiing River, after securing a number of beautiful pliotographs, which are indeed so excellent that a famoi'S theatre proprietor has asked for some of them for the decoration of the foyer. The Temaganung River is swift. There are some hard portages, but the fishing was better here, if that were possible, than anything we had had. .Some of the portages and rapids are so bad that we would advise aged and prudent canoeists, after enjoying the fishing of Temagaming River, to go back, for the homeward trip, to the bay wliicli leads to the iVIetabech- awau River, which is another connecting link between Lake Temaganung and Lake Tendskaming and its steamers, and the Canadian Tacific Railway. The canoeist who wants some exciting bits anil some good scenery will continue down the River to Sturgeon Falls station, two good days of travelling. During the last half day on the Sturgeon River he will find himself amongst settlers and farmers, and the scenery will be less enjoyable than what he has passed through, therefore, for tne majority, the new route which takes him back again through Lakes Temaganung and Temiskanung to Tendskaming Station is the best. In bidding my readers adieu, I wish them all something as enjoyable in life as my two trips to Lake Temagaming. L. (). AUMSTRONti. 221 Milton Street, Montreal. Routes. TO ^emiskaming Station From Chicago to Sault Ste. Marie by rail or steamer, thence Canadian Pacific Railway to Temaoaming. From Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Balti- more, Washington, etc., via Montreal and Canadian Pacific Railway. From points situated between the above, that via Toronto and the Canadian Pacific Railway is the best route. Publicdtion$ ^ ti ti ISSUED BY THE Canadian Pacific Railway Qo, "THE NEW HIGHWAY TO THE ORIENT," " FISHING AND SHOOTING," " SPORTSMAN'S MAP OF CANADA." "SUMMER TOURS," " WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST." " EAST TO THE WEST," Guides to the Principal Cities of Japan and China. "TIME-TABLE WITH NOTES," "AROUND THE WORLD," "CLIMATES OF CANADA." "QUEBEC-SUMMER AND WINTER," " MONTREAL, THE CANADIAN METROPOLIS," "ACROSS CANADA TO AUSTRALIA," "BANFF," "HAWAII," Also numerous pamphlets descriptive of Manitoba, the Canadian North-West Territories and British Columbia : "BRITISH COLUMBIA." "YUKON," WESTERN CANADA," GOLD FIELDS OF B.C.," NEW ONTARIO GOLD FIELDS," ETC. CANOE TRIPS IN THE DESBARATS ISLANDS." Most of these publications are handsoineh' illustrated and contain much useful information in interesting shape. Time- Tablfs with Notes will be found a valuable companion for all Transcontinental travel lers. Copies may be obtained FREE from agents of the Company, or will be mailed to any address on application to the under- signed. The Company lias also published a new JNIap, on the polar projection, showing the whole of tlie northern hemisphere and the Canadian Pacific Uailway's Around the World Rnute in a novel and interesting way, and another of Canada and the northern half of the United States, showing the entire system of the Company in detail. These maps will be given away for public and prominent display IC Cwry spomtnan ... should procure a Copy of the Canadian Pacific Railway Map showing where the BEST SPORT ^ ^ can be obtained in CANADA and the NORTHWEST. '*Ti$Wng and SDooting" PampWet, CANADA, ''fisWng and Shooting ' Pampbkt, QUEBEC. FKOM Baltimore, Md c. (;. Oslmni, T211 Knst lialtimoru Stivel. Boston, Mass H- •'• ('"Ivi", 197 WiishiiigUm Street. Buffalo. N. Y... A. J. Sliulmaii, 233 Main Street. Chicago, III '• I'mix'is Lee, 2'2S South Clnrk Street. Detroit, Mich A. K. Edmonds, 11 Fort Street West. Duiuth '!"• "• T.arke, I'JC Spalding House Bloc,!;. Marquette, Mich G. W. Ilibbard, Soutli Sliore Line, Minneapolis, Minn W. R. Callaway, Soo-1'aeifie Line. Montreal. Que Wm. F, K :g, I'J'.. "t. .lames Street. New Whatcom, Wash.. W. II. ( lordon. I'J'.i;', Doek Street. New York, N. Y K. V. Skinner, :!.-.:! Broadway. . Niagara Falls. N. Y • • .!>• Isaaes, I'rosf.eet House. Philadelphia, Pa H, MeMurtric, Corner Third and cliestiiut .Streets. Pittsburg V.W . Salsbury, .10'.) Sniitli lUiilding. Portland. Me ,. (i. II. Thomson, Maine Central Kaih'oad, Union Depot. Portland, Ore llamiltcm .Mibott, lie. Tlnrd Street. St. John, N. B A.,1. Heath. St. Paul, Minn , 1'. K. Huntington, Soo-I'aeitie Line, 39,s Robert 'Street Hotel Ryan. San Francisco. Cal-.M. M. Stern, Cln'.miele liuilding. Seattle. Wash W. R. Thomson, Mutual Life liuilding. liO'J First Avenue. Tacoma. Wash F- R- Johnson. 102;? I'aeilic Avenue. Toronto, Ont A. H. Notman, 1 King .Street, East. Vancouver B,C K. ,T. Coyle. Victoria, B. C V,.^. Oreer, Government Street. Winnipeg. Man 'W. M. MeLeod, Corner Main Street and McDermott .\ venue. Washington, D.C W. W. Merkle, 1229 Pennsylvania Avenue. C. E. E. USSHER, General, Pas-ienqer Agent, Lines East of Lake Suixjrior. MONTKF.M,. C, E. McPHFRSON, General Passenger Agent, Lines West of Lake Suijerior. WINNIPEG. ROBT. KERR, Passenger Traffic Manager. M0NTKE.\1.. '"' £mmti Pacific Railway r *i Is the indst Subiitantlal and Perfectly Built Knllwayoii tlie Continent of Aineriea, iind suiierlily jiiulpiied with the lliicst rolliiif; stock modern sikill can produce. The Coaches, D-ning and Sleeping Cars excel in stability and ))euiity of lini^li, any otiicr in the world. TTQITD ICTTC will tiiid the route throufih Canada from the .Mlantii; to tlie I'acitic unapt roaehcd for mauniliccnce and variety of scenery by any ether line of travel. The ru^Kcd wildness of the North .Shore of Lake Superior, tlie iiicturesiine Lake of the Woods nold region, the vast prairies of the Canadian Northwest, the stately srandi'ur of the Rockies, the marvels of the Selkirks and (iold l{an{;e, and the wondrous lieauty of the I'aeitie Coast are traversed by this Koute. Heiufr entirely eontrolled and nianaired by one Company, the CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY olTcrs special advantages to transcontinental travellers tliat cannot be siven by any other line. It is the Hcsl, the Safest and Fastest Koute from Ocean to Ocean. The Company has spared no expense in piovidinn for tlie wants and comforts of its patrons, as its line of Diniiif; (Jars and Mountain Hotels will at all times testify, beiiiK supplied with all tluit the most fastidious can desire. Through the iMountains Observation Cars are run in the Tourist Season. CDe Royar mail $tcam$Mp$ EMPRESS OF INDIA" "EMPRESS OF JAPAN "EMPRESS OF CHINA" I'laced on the racide by the Canadian I'acilic Railway Company, lirinfj tliat Wonderland, .Tapan, within the reach of all. Sixty days from New York will admit of one month's hollday.s in Japan. Cbe eanadian-Jlustralian Cine R. M.SS. " MIOWERA " "WARRIMOO' end " AORANCI" Retween Vancouver and Victoria, B. C, and Sydney, Australia, via Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands and Rrishane, Queensland, is the shortest and most attra(;ti ve route to the Toyiies and Antipodes. Through Tickets from Halifax, St. John. N. B., Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa, Prescott, Brockville. Toronto. Hamilton, London, and all points in Canada; also from New York, Boston, and all points In the East, to Vancouver, Victoria, Skagway, and other points in British Columbia and Alaska, and to Portland, Ore-, Puget Sound Po;nts. San Francisco^ Japan, China, Manila, Corea, Straits Settle- ments, India, Hawaiian Islands, Australia. New Zealand, and Around the World. INSIST ON GETTING YOUR TICKETS VIA THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RY. RATES ARE THE LOWEST. \ ^ i>«iMM|P«»J*«M ., <■ cil sti VI N. (>r Wc Oil P tn HI OS D: \v I) f 1 ,f'- .t,-«%^ *J*:rj> r J. .. >• : ) f ,1? , I- /»r A7 .2: . ^*f■^'■ "^■il^ N V a F * or RATES ARE THE LOWEST. A CANOE -4 4 TRIP 'I . . . THROUGH . . . Temagaming the Peerless I'AI.I.S Ol' MAITAWABIKA. In the Land of Hiav/athati ti ^ 644)(I4 684 IKSIKl) IIY CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY n»on ^ss