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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seui cliche, il est f ilm6 A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de geuche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'Images nteessaire. Les diagrammes sulvants illustrent la m^thode. i errata id to It le pelure, ^on kt n 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 QUEBEC AND MONTREAL, >• The mail steamers leave Montreal for Quebec every evf^nirj (Sundays excepted) at sijven o'clock, P. M., and Quebec for iVIon- treal every evening (Sundays excepted) at five o'clock, P. M. The fine steamer "John Munn" or "Quebec", leave Montreal for Quebec every ove;nng (Sundays excepted) at haU'-past sevpn o'clock, uiid Qujbec for Montreal every evening at six o'clock. TRIP TO TxIVJiR DU LOUP AND CACOUNA. The sea-gaing" steamer " Kowland Hill", Captain W. B. Jeans, leaves the iNapoleon Wharf, Quebec, at nine o'clock, every Tues- day morning during the travelling season, proceeding every other week (and oAener, if jyosscngers oflier), up theJiiver baguenay, as far as Chicoutimi, visiting the far-fumed Ha! fiitj Bay, and other places of interest on thit inajcsiic river. The Uowland Uili runs in connection ;vith the steamers John Munn and Quebec. CABIN i'ARE : From Montreal to River du Loup or Caccuna .... $6 « « « " and back to Montreal same trip 10 " ** to Saguenay and back to Cacouna same trip r . 12 , " " " " Montreal same trip . . 14 " Quebec to River du Loup or Cacouna 4 « « ic « am] '' ' back to Quebec snmc trip 6 ** to Saguenay and back to Cacouna 8 " " " and back to Quebec lO Slate Rooms half a dollar extra. Children under 12 years Half Price. Servants accompanying Cabin Passengers . . . Half Price. Mrals Extra. t DISTANCE : From Montreal to Chiccutimi . . . 430 miles. « « to Cacouna .... 300 " . " Quebec to Chicoutimi .... 250 " " " to Cacouna .... 120 " Large and Commodious Motels have been opened at Ritrer du Loup and Cacouna, for the reception of Visitors. Passengers having Montreal for Chicoutimi on Monday evening, will be back ot Montreal on the following Saturday morning. Mr. Adam Burns, is the Agent at the Napoleon Wharf, Quebec. ■5'il' 'y*»c» Q Moi C R B n s J evening for iVlon* M. Mor.trtal ast sevpii luck. B. Jeans, ery Tues- t'iv other uenay, as and other lera John • $6 . . 10 r . 12 . . 14 . . 4 . . 6 8 iO aif Price, alf Pritx'. is. Rifer du ' evening, Quebec. ^.£ty , n^ THE NEW GUIDE Ml W TO QUEBEC AND ITS ENVIRONS. WITH ijf A MAP. QUEBEO: P. SINCLAIR. Montreal, Messrs. Armour fie Ramsay, J. M'Cot, R. & C. Chalmers, C. Brtson, B. Dawson, R. k A. Miller ; Three Rivers, George Stobbs ; Bytown, A. Brtson ; Brockville, W. Bvbll; Perth, J. Allan ; Kingston, J. Durr; Belleville, J. HAimitON ; Toronto, A. H. Armour & Co. ; Niagara, J. SiMffsoir } London, J. M. Graham. 1851. \ ,1? -if- l ■if i*-' 4 ■ '■ k1 ^ Hit T] QUEI Thus its Switzer Champli site of a in the I. of a Sti lion, the sam the Alg howeve manS; t the seci lofty have cape, regard the latl dians g River, flows ii tlemem I -'A ^ , ■j ■ 1 ■i*r 1 : 1 s i^ ■ ; THE NEW GUIDE TO QUEBEC. Quebec is situated in 46° 49 N. and 71° 15 W. Thus its latitude nearly coincides with that of Geneva in Switzerland. It was founded in 1608 by the celebrated Champlain, Geographer to the King of France, on the site of aYi Indian village, called Stadacona, a name which in the Algonquin language is said to denote " The Place of a Strait," and most appropriately expresses the situa- tion. Its Huron name of Tiatontarili is said to imply the same. Charlevoix says that the name is derived from the Algonquin word Quey which signifies a strait. Some, however, contend that the name is derived from the Nor- mans, the first part, Que, being undoubtedly French, and the second, hec, being uniformly applied by them to any lofty promontory or cape. Cartier's pilot is said to have exclaimed in Norman French, when he saw the cape, " Que bee !" What a beak ! Moreover, many regard Quebec as a likely corruption or slight variation of the latter division of Cahirccmbat, the name which the In- dians gave to the River St. Charles, denoting Winding River, Champlain chose the point where the St. Charles flows into the St. Lawrence, as the spot for his first set- tlement. The reflection is calculated to surprise us, that I QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. the Great River, or the St. Lawrence, (as the Gulf be- low was called in honour of the Saint, whose festival is celebrated on the tenth of August, the day on which it was entered,) should have been discovered in 1535, and that for nearly seventy years the French settlers continu- ed to disperse themselves over various parts of the sea- coast or on islands in the Gulf, before a site was selected for the foundation of a town, destined ere long to be the metropolis of New France. The progress of the young city was undoubtedly much impeded by an impolitic step of Champlain and the new settlers. The neighbouring nations of the Algonquins and Iroquois were at this period on hostile terms. The French took part with the Algon- quins, and thus excited the hatred of the powerful Iroquois. Hence the colony was involved in a destructive and tedious war ; and it was necessary to defend Quebec against the implacable enemy with fortifications, certainly of a very rude description. In 1629 it fell into the hands of the English, but was restored in 1632. In 1663 the colony became a royal government, and Quebec the capital. In 1690 the English made an unsuccessful attempt to recon- quer it. In that year it was fortified in a regular manner by works of stone according to the rules of art. From that period its increase was gradual till it fell into the hands of the English under General Wolfe in 1759, when the population was estimated at between eight and nine thousand. The site of Quebec may be described as a triangle, whose base is formed by the Banlieu line, and the sides by the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles, the point at their confluence answering to the apex. The Lower \ spot whe the Sout towards the woo( river far world. hundred Montres up. Tl city, am feet) in Wei himself purpose rons, to self neai rectly g versant tions. Diamoi and inc as uneq as seco OldW the « ( coup d pronoui The vi( for for ^■■•^•1 Gulf be- 'estival is which it 535, and continu- the sea- i selected ;o be the he young )litic step ;hbouring [lis period le Algon- Iroquois. ad tedious gainst the of a very ds of the he colonj 3ital. In to recon- ir manner k. From into the r59,when and nine ibed as a line, and irles, the 3X. The QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 5 Lower Town includes all underneath the cliff, from the spot where the Banlieu line strikes the St. Lawrence on the South to the King's Woodyard on the St. Charles towards the North. The suburb of St. Roch is beyond the woodyard. The St. Lawrence is believed to be the river farthest navigable for vessels of a large size in the world. From its mouth in the Gulf to Quebec is three hundred and sixty miles, and European vessels ascend to Montreal, which is one hundred and eighty miles higher up. The river is about a mile in breadth in front of the city, and about thirty fathoms (one hundred and eighty feet) in depth. Good anchorage is everywhere found. We would recommend the stranger, as soon as he finds himself in readiness to proceed from his lodgings for the purpose of enjoying the scenery of Quebec and its envi- rons, to visit in the first place the Citadel, and place him- self near to the flag staff. His interest will be more cor- rectly gratified, if he be accompanied by an individual con- versant with the surroundins: localities and their associa- tions. The Citadel, which surmounts the summit of Cape Diamond, is three hundred and fifty feet above the River, and includes about forty acres. This fortress, admitted as unequalled by any military work on this Continent, and as second to few of the most celebrated fortresses in the Old World, has been frequently and appropriately called the " (Jibraltar of America." Hence is commanded a coup deadly which American and European travellers have pronounced unsurpassed in the New and Old Worlds. The view embraces the oppoLite banks of the majestic river for forty miles up and down, backed by extensive plains ti if ft \f 6 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. receding to lofty mountains in the distance, the Island of Orleans between its shores, and on either hand the lively village of Pointe Levy and that of Beauport, whilst the Great River and the St. Charles unite in forming the magnificent basin, on whose bosom vessels of every size are continually floating. Here the position of the City, on the tongue of land formed by these rivers, is well seen. The Cape is composed of dark-coloured slate, ir which * are found in veins quartz crystals, sparkling like diamonds, and hence arose the name of Cape Diamond. A walk along the ramparts above the Esplanade is a delightful promenade. Hence the eyes rest on the small group of hills, forming the portal to the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay. It is worthy of remark here, that the lower range of mountains seen from Quebec is the boundary to civiliza- tion in this direction. The St. Charles is seen to most ad- vantage at sun set, when its shores, studded with white buildings, are illuminated by his declining rays, as they momentarily rest on the chain of hills above the beautiful Val C artier. -—The Obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm stands on the Promenade between the gardens attached to the Castle, The Earl of Dalhousie, when Governor General, originated the erection of this monu- ment, and contributed handsomely to its subscnption. Captain Young, of the 79th Highlanders, prepared^the design. For the benefit of those who do not under- stand the Latin language, we subjoin a translation of the two inscriptions. " This monumental stone to the memory of the illustrious men, Wolfe and Montcalm, was laid over all neglecte a gallai courage 15th N Great ] mon dea monume devoid ( tion-stoi Excelle Quebec. tendenc( tlemen, the pres survivoi gallant 13th of year, wi and lea appropr venerah to assisi hand ga stone, on the He wa EDgine< Tain, .» QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK» le Island of id the lively ;, whilst the forming the f every size of the City, is well seen. , ii which e diamonds, d. A walk a delightful all group of are trodden as Hudson's lower range y to civiliza- 1 to most ad- with white ays, as they the beautiful f Wolfe and the gardens lousie, when f this monu- subscHption. prepared^the I not under- anslation of stone to the i Montcalm, was laid by George, Earl of Dalhousie,Governor-in-Chief over all the British Provinces in North America ; a work neglected for many years (what is there more worthy of a gallant general 1) he promoted by his influence, en- couraged by his example, and favoured by his munificence. 15th November, 1827. George IV. reigning King of Great Britain." " Military prowess gave them a com- mon death. History, a common fame, Posterity a common monument. In the year of our Lord 1827." It is not devoid of interest to record here, that, when the founda- tion-stone of this monument was laid in presence of his Excellency, the Governor-in-Chief, the Lord Bishop of Quebec, the Chief Justice, the Committee of Superin- tendence, and a large assemblage of Ladies and Gen- tlemen, the ceremony derived a peculiar interest from the presence of Mr. James Thompson, one of the few survivors (supposed to be the sole one in Canada) of the gallant army, that served under Wolfe on the memorable 13th of September, 1759. This veteran, then in his 95th year, walked with the party that accompanied the Earl, and leaned on the arm of the officer, whose chaste and appropriate design for the monument was adopted. The venerable man, having been called upon by the Governor to assist as a Free Mason in the ceremony, with a firm hand gave the three mystic strokes with the mallet on the stone. He has since paid the debt of nature, having died on the 25th of August, 1830, in the 98th year of his age. He was for a long time Overseer of Works in the Engineer Department of the Garrison. He was born at Tain, the county-town of Hoss-shire in Scotland ; and, I f 8 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. m having come to this country in General Wolfe's army, was at the capture of Louisburgh in Cape Breton Island, and in the unsuccessful affair near Montmorenci Falls. He also took part in the defence of Quebec against the attacks of the American Generals, Arnold and Mont- gomery, in 1775. When his remains were conveyed to the grave with military honours, the band and firing party were furnished by the 15th Regiment, the senior corps in garrison, which by a singular coincidence happened to be one of those which formed the army under General Wolfe. The traveller might now descend through the Place d'Armes to the Seminary Gardens. The English or Protestant Cathedral is one of the handsomest modern edifices in the City. It was consecrated in 1804*. The communion plate is very magnificent, and was presented by King George the Third. His Majesty also present- ed the books for Divine service — the altar-cloth, &c. The spire, which is one hundred and fifty- two feet above the ground, and covered with tin, from the church standing on nearly the highest ground in the city, is a very conspicuous object at a great distance. Within is erected a handsome monument of white marble to the memory of the late Dr. Mountain, first Bishop of Quebec, who procured the erection of the building. Beneath the altar are interred the remains of the Duke of Richmond, Governor-General of these Provinces, who died of hydro-' phobia in August, 1819. A few other handsome monu- ments adorn the walls. On the north side of the Church, there stood, since Quebec was a city, a huge elm-tree, one of the aborigines of the forest. It was blown down dur- *J*^f QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. Ife's army, iton Island, enci Falls. against the and Mont- jonveyed to firing party lior corps in pened to be era! Wolfe. 1 the Place English or lest modern 1804^. The as presented Uso present- r-cloth, &c. feet above the church be city, is a Within is irble to the p of Quebec, Beneath the [ Richmond, ed of hydrO" some monu- the Church, ilm-tree, one rn down dur- ing a squall some five or six years ago. Within the enclosure has recently been erected the Rectory, in which his Lordship the Bishop of Quebec resides ; a small chapel is attached. There are besides four chapels of the Church of England within the Parish of Quebec, viz. — that of the Holy Trinity, St. Matthew's or the Free Chapel, St. Paul's or the Mariner's Chapel, and St. Peter's. The Church and Convent of the Recollets or Franciscans were formerly situated near this spot, having been destroyed by fire in 1796. On a part of their grounds the Church stands. This order is now extinct in Canada. — The Court-house, which is a large modern structure of stone, contains on the ground-floor apartments for holding the Quarter Sessions and other inferior Courts, offices of Clerks of the different Courts, &c. &c. Above there is a spacious chamber, in which are held the Superior Court, Criminal Court, the Court of Appeals, and the Admiralty Court. There are also offices for the High Sheriflf and other magistrates, and a room for occasional Militia Courts-martial. It occupies, like the English Church, part of the site on which stood a monastery and church of the Recollets, which were destroyed by fire in 1796. — We shall now briefly allude to such public edifices as seem worthy of notice from their antiquity or interesting associations. — The Castle of St. Louis was built shortly after the city was fortified with solid works, and com- prised four acres, once fortified ; but the great extension of the works rendered the walls superfluous, and they were allowed to go to decay. Here was the residence of the Representative of the Crown, while Quebec 'continued a2 10 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. y| the Seat of Government. The Castle was entirely con- sumed hy fire in 1834. — The site is laid out for a prom- enade from which a most extensive view of the surround- ing country may be obtained. — It is called Durham Ter- race. — The laro'est religious edifice is the Roman Catholic Cathedral. It was built under the auspices of the first Bishop of Quebec, and was consecrated in 1666 under the title of the Immaculate Coficcjitio??,. It is two hun- dred and sixteen feet long by one hundred and eighty in breadth, and stands on ground belonging to the Fahriquc, or Church lanJ. It is divided into a nave and two aisles. At the upper end of the former is the grand altar ; and in the side aisles are four chapels, dedicated to different saints. It is dedicated to Notre Dame de Victoire, and can accommodate about four thousand persons. Among the paintings which adorn the walls are the following : — The Altar Piece pourtrays the ConccjUion, in the style of Lebrun. On the north, the A^io^tlc Paul, in his exstatic Vision, by Carlo Maraltc. On the opposite wall is a design. The Saviour ministered unto by Angels. — Restouta wpy. Above the Altar in the South Nave. The Flight of Joseph and Mary with the young Child into Egypt. On the Pillar above the Pulpit, A delineation of the Redeemer on the Cross, by Vandyke. On the opposite Pillar, The Nativity of Christ, a Copy after Anriahal Carnjcci. The Sn vionr under the contumelious outrages of the Soldiers. — Fhtrct. The Day of Pente- cost, by Vigrton, The Holy i'amily, by Blafichard. — Also, a Portrait of St. Anne and the Holy Family. —-Both Copies. Adjoining tlie Cathedral stands the QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 11 Seminary, forming three sides of a square, and oc- cupying with its attached buildings a large space of ground. It was founded and endowed in 1663 by Mon- seigneur de Laval de Montmorency, first Bishop of Cana- da. During his life-time the buildings were twice burnt to the ground. Having resigned his Bishopric, he passed the last twenty years of his life within the Seminary. This institution was originally intended for the instruction of the Catholic Clergy exclusively. The early regula- tions have long ago been set aside ; and students of the Catholic pcr.vaasion, intended for any profession, are in- structed in the difl'erent branches of literary and scientific knowledge, on paying the trilling sum of 5s. annually for defraying incidental expenses. Pupils are boarded at the very moderate charge of ^£12 10s. yearly. The esta- blishment is divided into two branches, distinguished as the Grand and Petit Seminaire. The course includes Latin and French, Mathematics, Belles-lettres, Moral and Natural Philosophy, Astronomy, Chemistry, Drawing, Music, (fee. Sec. Besides the rcquiste domestic apart- ments, such as dormitories, refectories, cfec, it contains halls for the senior and junior classes, and residences for the Superior, Directors, Professors, and diflerent masters. These incumbents receive no emoluments, as they conse- crate themselves gratnitons/// to their arduous labours. The Institution only guarantees " food and raiment" in sickness and health. The annual exhibitions are most interesting, and are attended by crowds of the respecta- ble citizens, and parents and guardians of pupils from a distance. The Catholic Bishop resides in a large cuIt 12 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. ■ ' ■tone house in rear of the Cathedral. It was built in 1849; and has accommodation for upwards of one hundred of the Clergy, many of whom have frequent occasion to visit Quebec. In the Bishop's ante-chamber are sus- pended the portraits of his twelve predecessors. The chapel contains the best collection of paintings, (by eminent masters of the French School) in this country. The Library contains upwards of nine thousand volumes ; and there is a valuable collection of philosophical instru- ments, besides fossils, minerals, Indian curiosities, &c. &c. — The Ursuline Convent, and Church of St. Ursula, are neat structures, surrounded by large productive gardens. This establishment was founded in 1639 by Madame de la Peltrie, for the purpose of extending the benefits of education to the young females of the Colony. Pupils have resorted thither from the United States, Nova Sco- tia, and Piince Edward's Island. At present (184'9) three hundred and sixty-eight are receiving a superior education. It contains a Superior, fifty Nuns, and six novices, who give instruction in reading, writing, and needle-work. They are very assiduous in embroidery and other ornamental works, especially for ecclesiastical vest- ments. Considerable prices are obtained for their fancy- work, and by this means and the produce of the gardens the revenue of the community is increased. The Convent has been twice destroyed by fire, in 1650 and 1686. It is worthy of honourable notice, that on both occa- sions the unfortunate outcasts, to the number of four- teen and twenty-five respectively, were most hospi- tably sheltered for the space of three weeks under QUEBEC GUroE BOOK. 13 t was built in jf one hundred nt occasion to mber are sus- cessors. The )aintingS) (by I this country. sand volumes ; ophical instru- sities,&:c. &;c. St. Ursula, are ictive gardens. jy Madame de the benefits of 'olony. Pupils tes, Nova Sco- present (1849) '^ing a superior Nuns, and six J, writing, and embroidery and lesiastical vest- for their fancy- of the gardens The Convent 550 and 1686. on both occa- umber of four- c most hospi- weeks under the roof of the Hozpitalieres, or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. Within the prec'ri of the Convent are inter- red the remains of the guJant Marquis de Montcalm, who was mortally wounded in the eventful battle on the Plains of Abraham in 1759. Lord Aylmer, when Gover- nor-in-Chief, caused a marble slab with an appropriate in- scription to be erected to his memory in the Chapel. The Chapel contains about a dozen paintings which may be examined on application to the Chaplain. Those within the Convent are not open to the public. This establish- ment is usually visited by strangers, who, on making ap- plication to the Pwoman Catholic Bishop, will receive the necessary introduction or permission. — On the arrival of the Jesuits in Canada in 1635, they erected a suitable habitation, the destruction of which a few years afterwards made way for their spacious Monastery. It was forfeited on the suppression of that order, and at the conquest was regarded as Crown property. It was formerly surrounded by extensive gardens, whibh were then destroyed and con- verted into a place of exercise for the troops. The citizens with much regret saw felled to the ground the stately trees, yet untouched by decay, that had been the primeval tenants of the site at the foundation of the city. — The elegant building formerly denominated the Bishop's Palace, standing on an elevated spot, is very conspicuous, and originally had a chapel connect^ d therewith. The Bis- hop having accepted an annuity in hcu of it, the Govern- ment fitted it up for the accommodation of the two branches of the Legislature, by whom it continued to be used until the removal of the Seat of Government.— The Quebec \ 14 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 1 1' m Library, a valuable collection of books numbering upwards of six thousand volumes, was for several years in this building. It was founded in 1779 during the administra- tion of General Haldimand, who liberally contributed one hundred volumes of valuable works towards its formation. This building contained also the Museum of the Literary and Historical Society, v/hich was founded in 1824, and united in 1829 to that for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences. The Mineralogical and Botanical collections are said to be valuable. Now, however, that the seat of Government is about to return to Quebec the Library and Museum will have to be accommodated elsewhere. A new wing to the Parliament buildings is in course of erection to be used as public offices. The St. George's Hotel and the old Chateau near Durham place have been leased for a similar purpose. For the accommodation of the present Governor General, Spencerwood, the beautiful residence of H. Atkinson, Esq., has been leased for a term of years. — About 1803 a joint-stock company erected a very handsome building with the view of supplying the city with a hotel somewhat in the commodious style of the neigh- bouring States. It was called the St. George Hotel, and has undergone several change*? since, for the ori- ginal speculation having turned out unremunerative, it was sold to the late Chief- Justice Sewcll, and thereafter leased to Government for JG500 annually for the use of the chief Civil Departments ; but after the removal of the Seat of Government to Montreal, it was again converted into a hotel, bearing the above mentioned name. And more recentfy, as already men- QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 15 tioned, it has again fallen into the Government's hands for the public service. The Artillery Barracks, which form a range of stone buildings upwards of five hundred feet in length, roughly constructed, but very substantial and well arranged, were erected before 1750 for the accomoda- tion of troops by which the garrison was re-inforced, and were then distinguished as the Casernes Nouvelles. Be- sides quartering the artillerymen, they contain an ordnance- office, storehouses, workshops, and an armoury. The armoury which occupies several apartmemts, contains, in a state of complete repair and readiness for immediate use, small arms of every description, sufficient for the equip- ment of twenty thousand men. The admiration of strangers is excited by the fanciful cowpcVccil, which is presented by the display of the arms in various designs and emblemati- cal devices. The Gold Dog is an object whose historical associa- tions induce the stranger to pay it a visit. It is the figure of a do.^, rudely sculptured in relievo, and richly gilded, over the door of the Post Office. This house was built by a Mons. riiilibert, who had formerly been a mer- chant in Bordeaux, and who came to Quebec in 1712, in the time of Bigot, the last Intendant under the French Government. This iutendant's drafts on the Treasury were so exorbitant, that one of the Queens of France is said to have archly enquired " whether the walls of Que- bec were built of gold ?" It is recorded that Bigot and Philibert were on very bad terms — that the latter, know- ing well that it was in vain to ;?cek redress in the Colony, and having determined to prefer at some future period his V 16 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. il complaint in France, contented himself wi^h placing in front of his house, the figure of a dog lying down, and gnawing a bone, with the following lines in allusion to his situation with his powerful enemy : " Je suis un chien qui ronge I'os, En le rongeant je prends mon repos. Un terns viendra, qui n'est pas venu, Que je mordrai qui m'aura mordu." Bigot readily understood this allegorical language, and easily found an instrument to avenge the insult. As Philibert was descending the Lower Town Hill, he received through his back the sword of an officer of the garrison as the reward of his verse. The assassin was permitted to leave the Colony unmolested, and was trans- ferred to a regiment stationed in the East Indies, whither he was pursued by a brother of the deceased, who had first sought him in Canada, having arrived here to settle his brother's affairs. The parties are said to have met in a public street of Pondicherry, where the assassin, after a severe conflict, died by the sword of his antagonist, and met a more honourable fate than his crime deserved. — Among public places in the Upper Town we may men- tion Durham Terrace, and the Esplanade, which is the chief theatre for milititry exercises. A little to the west of Hope-Gate stands the building once occupied by the brave Marquis de Montcalm, now divided into three pri- vate residences. It is only remarkable now as having been the residence of the French General whose fame has been perpetuated with that of his antagonist Wolfe. In St. Anne's Street is St. Andrew's Church in con* n QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 17 ij nexion with the Scotch Establishment. A Minister of that Church is believed to have officiated to the Presby- terians since the conquest in 1759. It is ascertain- ed that " an apartment was assigned by the King's Representative in the Jesuits' College as a place of worship for the members of the Scotch Church" pre- viously to 1767, and was occupied as such without interruption till 1807, when Colonel Brock, Comman- dant, requested the congregation to remove on the short- est notice, as it was found necessary to appropriate the apartment to the accommodation of the troops. In November the congregation removed to the lower room of the Court-House. In November of 1808, his Excel- lency, Governor Craig, granted the lot of ground on which the present Church now stands. It was opened in November, 1810, by the late Rev. Dr. Spark, who died in 1819. In 1821 it was found inadequate for the ac- commodation of the members, when the Earl of Dalhousie was pleased to grant an additional space of ground, on which the presently enlarged church, which was completed in 1824, and a comfortable manse for the Minister, now stand. The Church accomodates thirteen hundred sitters. — In St. Francis Street stands St. John's Church, pre- viously a Congregational Chapel. It was erected in 1816. In 1830 the Congregation, having conformed to the doctrine, discipline, and laws of the Church of Scot- land, received the ministrations of a Minister of that church. At the disrupt tion of the Scottish Establishment, a majority of the Congregation connected themselves with the Free Church of Scotland. — The Wesleyan 18 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. If Methodists have two Chapels, one in St. Stanislaus Street, (erected in 1850), a plain but beautiful edifice in the Gothic style, the interior of which is tastefully fitted up a fine organ has also been introduced — the other in St. Louis Suburb, is called the " Centenary Chapel." The Lower Town extends along the base of the pre- cipice on the summit of which the Upper Town is built. The site is almost entirely the creation of human industry, having been gained by excavation from the base of the precipice, or redeemed from the River by building out into its waters. The towns are connected by Mountain Street, which was formerly almost impassable for carri- ages. Foot passengers avail themselves of the shorter passage, popularly known as the Break-neck Stairs, The wharves are very extensive, and are generally carried out upwards of two hundred yards into the River. The Chapel (Secoursalej i, e. in aid of the Parish Church), standing in the Square, is of great antiquity, as it was built and used as a church before 1690. In that year Sir Wra. Phipps in attempting to capture Quebec was de- feated ; and the Fete of Notre Dame tie Victoire was instituted for annual celebration in this church on the 7th of October. After the shipwreck of the finglish fleet in 1711, which was regarded by the inhabitants not only as a second victory but as a miraculous interposition in their favour, the church received its present name of Notre Dame des Victoires, that both events might be commem- orated at once. We may here notice the other Roman Catholic Churches, viz. that of the Congregation, on th© <^rEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 19 e of the pre- own is built, lan industry, base of the building out •y Mountain e for carri- the shorter tairs. The carried out iver. The h Church), I as it was at year Sir c was de- ictoii'e was 5n the 7th sh fleet in ot only as 5n in their of Notre commem- •r Koffian >n; on the hill leading from the Esplanade and St. John's Gate, and that in the populous suburb of St. Roch. The former is perfectly plain in the interior, while the latter is well finished and has several paintings. Among them is one of Bishop Plessis, a great benefactor to this Church. Another has also been erected in St. John's Suburbs, equal in size to the Cathedral. St. Patrick's occupies an area of one hundred and thirty-six by fifty.-two feet. Its corner stone was laid in the fall of 1831, and it was opened for religious service on the first Sabbath of July, 1833. The steeple is well proportioned, and stands one hundred and twenty feet from the ground to the ball sup- porting the cross. The interior is calculated to strike the beholder with religious awe and admiration. The Quebec Exchange dates its first institution in 1817. In 1822 it was removed from the house in St. Peter Street, in which it was established, to a handsome room in the new building erected by the Fire Assurance Company. The present commodious edifice of cut stone was erected in 1828-9, and has answered the sanguine expectations of the proprietors. The second-floor is " where the merchants most do congregate", and is devoted to the Reading-room, which is admirably conducted ; the upper part contains the rooms of the board of Trade, and the Telegraph Ofiice. The Quebec Bank, which was estab- lished in 1818 and incorporated in 1822, occupies the lower story of the handsome edifice built by the Quebec Fire Assurance Company, whose ofiice is on the second story. — In this part of the Lower Town are the Branch Agencies of the Bank of Montreal, Bank of British North 'V 20 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. m America, and Montreal City Bank. — The King's Wharf, which is appropriated to the purposes of Government, has on it extensive stores belonging to the Commissariat De- partment, which were erected in 1821. Here land and embark the officers of the Army and Navy, the troops, &c.-— The building formerly used as a Custom House ad- joins on the west. Nearly opposite to this there anciently stood a barrier, where the two ways diverge, one to the steps leading to the Upper Town, and the other to the Harbour, Near this spot the American General, Mont- gomery, and other officers, were killed during a daring attack upon the Lower Town by the discharge of a can- non on the 31st of December, 1775. — At some distance beyond, (about two miles) is Wolfe's Cove, where the intrepid leader, from whence it derives its name, suc- ceeded in ascending the Cliff, and in forming his army in battle-array on the Plains of Abraham. — The Marine Hospital was erected for the reception of sailors and others landing in Quebec afflicted with disease. It is supported by a tax of one penny a ton levied on each vessel arriv- ing from Sea, and a proportion of the tax upon Emigra- tion. It stands on the bank of the River St. Charles, nearly opposite to the spot where Jacques Cartier first wintered in 1535. The ceremony of laying the first stone was performed by Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief, in May, 1832. It was opened in July, 1834. Its esti- mated cost was je23,000 or $92,000. The exterior is of Ionic order ; and the proportions are taken from the Temple of the Muses on the Ilissus near Athens. The first story contains Catholic and Protestant Chapels with QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 21 'apartments for the officiating Ministers, apartments for Housekeeper, Steward, and Nurses, wards for sixty patients, besides two kitchens, store-rooms, baths, &c. The principal story contains the large Entrance Hall, apartments for the Medical Officers, their Examining Rooms, and Operating Theatres, besides a Museum, and accommodation for sixty-eight patients. The third story contains apartments for the chief musses, and wards for one hundred and forty patients. The upper story is ap- propriated as a Lying-in-Hospital for thirty-four patients. The attics will contain sixty ; so that there is accommo- dation for three hundred and sixty-two persons. Each story is supplied with cold, hot, and vapour baths. In the basement are cellars, kitchens, laundry, &c. The entire premises contain an area of about six acres, laid out in gardens and promenade grounds for convalescents. In the month of May and June of 1845, at an exact inter- val of four weeks, Quebec was visited by two most calamit- ous fires. So rapid and extensive was the destruction that nearly one third of the population was rendered houseless, and the entire suburbs of St. Rock and St. Johns reduced to ashes. About sixteen hundred buildings, of which twelve hundred were dwellings, were destroyed. The total loss was estimated at £875,000, or $3,500,000 of which about jei25,000 or $500,000, was insured. About forty lives were lost. This awful conflagration was arrested mainly through the noble exertions of the 43rd and 89th Regi- ments, then composing the Garrison, and of part of the Royal Artillery. The appeals of the Committee of the Quelec Relief Fund were nobly responded to, not only 22 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. :i I l£i by the Mother Country and the Sister Provinces, but by the Colonies generally and by the United States. A sum, amounting, we believe, to nearly J6 100,000, was thus raised, and the sufferers were enabled to rebuild their houses in many instances in a more substantial manner than before. The Corporation enjoined the use of bricks and stone instead of wood for the walls, and of tin instead of shingles for the roofs. We may notice here a few things that could not be pro- perly introduced elsewhere. The city was incorporated in 1842, and for municipal purposes is divided into six wards. Each ward is represented by two members of the Council, from whom the Mayor is annually chosen. There are six Aldermen, and the following standing Committees, for By-laws, Elections, Finance, Fire, Markets, Police (including Lighting and Watching), Public Health, and Roads. Steam communication between Quebec and Mon- treal commenced in November, 1812. The Swiftsure was the first Steamboat between the two cities. In 1816 the Malsham was added, and in 1819 the Telegraph. The communication by steam, generally commences in the latter half of April after the breaking up of the ice each season; and the first arrivals of Ships from Sea in the Port of Quebec generally take place in the last week of April or in the first week of May. Census up to 1850. Population* St. Louis Ward ...... 2907 Palace Jo 2512 St. Peter's »io 3111 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 23 Population, St. John's Ward 9974 St. Roch's J 14313 Champlain's do 4548—37,365 ORIGINS. English 1148 Scotch 630 Irish 6183 French Cp?.ndhi}s 22375 British do 6776 Germans 48 United States 56 Other Countries ...... 149—37,365 RELIGION. Catholic Church 30367 English do 4024 Scotch do 1327 Free do 292 Other Presbyterians 224 Wesleyan Methodists .... 798 Episcopalian do 21 Other do 75 Baptists . 44 Lutherans 8 Ctaigregationalists 144 Quakers 1 Unitarians 7 Jews ; 31 Other DenominatioQfl 2 — 37,365 24 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. Having brought under the Tourist's notice the princi- pal features within the city of Quebec that seem worthy of his attention, we propose now to accompany him in a few excursions to the surrounding country. A morning's ramble to the Plains of Abraham will not fail to recal historical recollections and to gratify a taste for beautiful scenery. On leaving the St. Louis Gate, let the Traveller ascend the counterscarp on the left, that leads to the Glacis of the Citadel ; and hence pursuing a direction to the right, let him approach one of the Martello Towers, whence he may enjoy a beautiful view of ^he St. Lawrence. A little beyond let him ascend the right bank, and he reaches the celebrated Plains of Abraham near the spot where General Wolfe fell. On the highest ground, surrounded by wooden fences, can be clearly traced out the redoubt where he received the fatal wound. He was carried a few yards to the rear and placed against a rock till he expired. It has since been removed. Within an en- closure lower down and near to the road is the stone-well from which they brought him water. The English right nearly faced this redoubt, and on this position the French left rested. The French army arrived on the Phiins from the right of this position, as it came from Beauport and not from (Quebec ; and, on being defeated, retired down the heights by which it had ascended, and not into Quebec. In front of tlie Plains from this position stands the house of Marchmont. It is erected on the site of a French redoubt that once defended the ascent from Wolfe's Cove. Here landed the British army under Wolfe's command, and, on mounting the banks, carried this detached work. The QUEBEC GUroE BOOK. 25 troops in the Garrison are usually reviewed on the Plains. -The Tourist may farther enjoy a beautiful ride. Let him |eave by the St. Louis Gate and pass the Plains, and he ill arrive at Marchmont, the property of John Gilmour, tCsq. The former proprietor, Sir John Harvey, went to considerable expense in laying out the grounds in a p^eas- ling and tasteful manner. Ilis successor, Sir Thomas (Noel Hill, also resided here, and duly appreciated its )eauties. The view in front of the house is grand. Here [the River widens and assumes the appearance of a lake, whose surface is enlivened by numerous merchant-ships at anchor, and immense rafts of timber floated down from 'various parts of the Upper Province for shipment to England, timber being one of the principal exports from I the Cr;;»adas. On leaving Marchmont he will pass some beautiful villas, whose park-like grounds remind one of England, and from some points in which are commanded views wortliy of a painter's study. Among these villas may be mentioned Wolfesfield, Spencer Wood, (the resi- dence of the (xovernor Creneral), and VVoodfield. The last was originally built by the Catholic Bishop of Samos, and, from the several additions made by subsequent pro- prietors, had a somewhat irregular, though picturesque, appearance. It was burnt down, and rebuilt in a fine re- gular style. It is now the residence of James Gibb, Esq. On leaving this lovely spot, the ride continues through the woods on the edge of the banks rising from the shore. On the south side are distinguished the embouchures of the Etchemin and Chaudiiire pouring in their tribute of waters. At Pointe aux Puisscaux the road leads down to ^.^i 26 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. Sillery Cove. The view from this point would afford an| excellent composition for the brush of the landscape- painter. Before reaching the ascent to the villa of the late Mr. Macnider is an old stone house, formerly inha- bited by the heroine of " Emily Montague," near which are the ruins of what was once a large stone chapel. Such visitants as are unacquainted with this novel will fmd in it a faithful picture of the nnnners and condition of the Colonists when Canada first becauie a British colony. A mile beyond is the villa of Kilgraston, formerly be- longing to the Bev. Dr. Mills, Clia])lain to the (garrison. Hence the Tourist, instead of returning by a road con- ducting through a wood into St. Louis Road for (.Quebec, will do better by continuing his ride to the Church of St. Foy, from which is seen below the St. Charles .gliding smoothly through a lovely vale, whose sides rise gradually to the mountains and arc literally covered Avith habitations. The villages ofLorctte and Charlesbourg are conspicu- ous objects. Before entering the Suburb of St. John, on the banks of St. Charles stands the Ceneral Hospital, designed, as the name implies, for the disabled ami sick of every description. Charlevoix says that " it is the finest house in Canada, and would be no disparagement to our largest house in France ; the Fathers Jlecollets formerly owned the ground on which it stands. M. de St. Vallier, Bishop of Quebec, remove d them into the city, bought their settlements, and expended one hundred thousand crowns in building, furniture, and foundations." The first ecclesiastics in Canada were Becollets, four in number, brought out by Champlain in 1G15. Their original ha- QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 27 )itation, consisting of a small lodge and seminary, was on jthe spot, where the General Hospital now stands. It was commenced before 1620. In 1690 the Pwecollets were induced to remove to grounds where the Episcopal Church now standss. This foundation was at first under the charge of the Sisters of the Congregation, but in 1692 under that of the Hoqiitallercs or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu ; from which community it received its Superior and twelve profes- sed Nuns. In 1701 the Nuns of the General Hospital were made a separate and independent community. At present it is governed by a Superior at the head of fifty Nuns and a few Novices and ]?ostulavtes. The anpearance, ex- ternal and internal, is regular and pleasing. The male patients are lodged on the ground-floor, and the females on that above. The Nuns are distinguished for the man- ufacture of Church ornaments and for their skill in gild- ing. The produce of their works is added to the general fund of the Institution, whose support is chiefly drawn from the revenue of the landed property that has been granted to it from time to time. The deficiency is some- times supplied by grants from the Provincial Parliament. A neat chapel is attached to the establishment. On the opposite side of the road are two houses, one of which was appropriated to the treatment of persons labouring under insanity, who have since been removed to the Gov- ernment Lunatic Asylum at Btauport, and the other as a dwelling-house for servants employed in a farm belonging to the establishment. A day's excursion io Indian Lorette and Lake St. Charles would gratify, we doubt not, many a TouriBt. It 28 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. iif will be necessary to leave by six o'clock, A. M., and to take provisions for the day. A caliche is the best con- veyance for the trip. — After leaving the Palace Gate, the site of the former Intcndant's Palace is passed. Bigot, whom we have already noticed in connection with M. Philibert and his Ci olden Dog, was the last Intendant who resided in it. His profligacy and expenditure were notori- ous ; for the year 1759 his estimate for the annual ex- penses was 30,000,000 livres, of which sum he had drawn 24,000,000. It sometimes happened in those days, that, when a gentleman possessed a very handsbme wife, the husband was sent to a distant post, where he was sure to make his fortune. Bigot's chere ainie was a Madame P. As a matter of course, Mr. P. became prodigiously wealthy. The Intendant had a house where the (Jfficers' Barracks in St. Louis Street now stands. This house he presented to Mdme. P., as a New Year's gift. This is one out of many specimens of Bigot's profli- gate munificence. "When Montcalm's widow landed in France, the Marquis de Vaudreuil, who was supposed to have been deeply implicated in these nefarious transac- tions, and who feared unpleasant disclosures from Mdme. de Montcalm, had a Icttrc de cachet ready, and threw her into prison. She had been made aware of the iniquitous proceedings in high quarters from her husband, who repro- bated misconduct which he was unable to remedy. She drew up in prison a memorial to her Sovereign, and with feminine address succeeded in getting it conveyed to his hands. In this manner was disclosed the series of iniqui- ties by which the country had been oppressed. Mdme. .^ilJDli QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 29 de Montcalm was released, and Bigot thrown into prison. Having surrendered his plunder, and with difficulty es- caped from prison with his life, he retired to Bordeaux, where he lived in poverty, supported by a small pension from Mdme. P. The most pleasant road to Lorette is along the banks of the St. Charles. On arriving at the village, the best view is from the opposite bank. The fall is in the fore- ground, and the church and village behind. The villagers claim to be descended from those Hurons, to whom the French Monarch in 1651 gave the seigniory of Sillery. In the wars between the French and English the Hurons contributed much to the success of the former, as they were one of the most warlike tribes among the aborigines of this continent. At present they are a harmless quiet set of people, drawing only part of their subsistence from fishing and hunting. A Missionary is maintained by Gov- ernment for their religious instruction, and the school- master belongs to the tribe. Here may be purchased bows and arrows, and moccassins very neatly ornamented by the squaws. We arc sure that a few sentences from Charlevoix's notice of this village will be read with inter- est. " About three leagues from Quebec is a small vil- lage of the Indians called Ilurom^, v/ho arc Christians, •and have a chapel built on the same model and with the same dimensions as the Santa Casa of Italy, whence an image of the Virgin, a copy of that which is in this famous sanctuary, has been sent to our neophytes. A wilder place could not have been chosen for the situation of this mission. ♦♦*••• The inhabitants are savages, or In- 30 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. P dians, but derive nothing from their birth and origin but what is really estimable, that is to say, the simplicity and openness of the first ages of the world, together with those improvements which grace has made upon them, a patri- archal faith, a sincere piety, that rectitude and docility of heart which constitute a true saint ; an incredible inno- cence of manners ; and, lastly, pure Christianity, on which the world has not yet created that contagious air which cor- rupts it, and which is frequently attended with acts of the most heroic virtue. Nothino- can be more alTectino' than to hear them sing in two cliou's, the men on one side, and the women on the other, the prayers and hymns of the church in their own lanauaoe, * * * » Xhis villaoe has been formerly much better peopled, but distempers, and I know not what causes, which insensibly reduce to nothing all the nations of this continent, have greatly diminished the num- ber of its inhabitants. Intoxicating liquors, the most common, and almost the sole, stumbhng-block which is able to cause the savage to fall off, are prohibited by a solemn vow, the breach of which is subjected to a public penance, as well as every other fault which occasions scandal : and a relapse is generally suflicient to banish the criminal, without any hopes of return, from a place which ought to be the impregnable fortress and sacred asylum of piety and innocence. * * « * We are hero surrounded by the vf.stcst woods in the Avorld ; in all appearance they are as ancient as the world itself, and were never planted by the hands of man. Nothing can present a nobler or more magnificent prospect to the eyes ; the trees hide their tops in the clouds j and the variety of the dilferent QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 3i species of them is so prodigious that, even amongst all those who have most applied themselves to the knowledge of them, there is not perhaps one who is not ignorant of at least one half of them." On arriving at Lake St. Charles, by embarking in a double canoe, the tourist will have his taste for picturesque mountain scenery gratified in a high degree. The lake is four miles long and one brotid, and is divided into two part* by projecting ledges. The lake abounds in trout, so that the angling tourist may find this spot doubly inviting. On the route back to the city the village of Charlesbourg is passed. It is one of the oldest and most interesting settle- ments in Canada. It has two cliurches, one of which is the centre of the surrounding farms, whence they all radi- ate. The reason for this singular disposal of the allotments arose from the absolute necessity of creating a neighbour- hood. For this purpose each farm was permitted to oc- cupy only a space of three acres in front by thirty in depth. Population was in these days scanty, tjnd labourers were diOicult to be procured, IJy this arrangement a road was more easily kept up in front of each farm, and it was the duty of every proprietor to preserve such road. Another advantage was the proximity of the church, whence the bell sounded the tocsin of alarm, whenever hostile attempts were made by the Indians, and where the inhabitants rallied in defence of ti eir possessions. In this place we are desirous to acknowledge our obligations to the labours of Alfred Hawkii/s, Esq. whose " Picture of (Quebec with Historical liecoUec- tions" we cordially recommend to all Travellers and 32 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. others, who would possess themselves of a work re- plete with minute information on the previous history and present condition of this Province.* We take the liberty of presenting our readers almost verbatim with the fol- lowing interesting extracts, and thus conclude our notice of the ancient Capital of Canada. — The approach to the Citadel, which is nearly two hundred feet higher than the .ground on which the Upper Town is situated, is by a winding road made through tl)e acclivity of the Glacis from St. Louis Gate, and commanded everywhere by the guns of the different bastions. This leads into the out- ward ditch of the ravelin, and thence into the principal ditch of the work, built on both sides with walls of solid masonry, and extending along the whole circumference of the Citadel on the land and city sides. The main entrance is thiOugh a massive gate of admirable construction, called DalJiousie Gate in honour of the Earl of Dalliousie, who succeeded the Duke of Richmond, as Governor-in-Chief of these Provinces, in 1820. Within are the Main- Guard-rooms for a detachment and an officer, who are relieved every day ; and in front is a spacious area used as a parade-ground, or rather an enlargement of the ditch formed by the retiring angles and face of the bastion. This is a splendid work, presenting a most august appear- ance, and combining strength antl symmetry with all the modern improvements in the art of fortification. In the face of this bastion are loopholes for the fire of musquetry ; • We are glad to learn that a new and improved edition of this excellent work is likely to be soon published. QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 33 on the top are embrasures for cannon. The loopholes serve also for the admission of air and light into the case- mated barracks within for the troops composing the Garrison. They are commodious and well adapted for comfort and safety, being well ventilated, and proof against fire and missiles of every description. On the top of D^JJu)usic Bastion is an extensive covered way, or broad gravel walk, with embrasures for mounting cannon, com- manding every part of the Ditch and Glacis, and every avenue of approach to the Citadel. From this elevated spot is obtained an extensive and delightful view of the surrounding scenery, forming a panorama that competent judj?es have pronounced not inferior to the celebrated Bay of Naples. An equally magnificent view is obtained ti'om the summit of the Cavalier, on which stands the Telegraph, at the eastern extremity of the Citadel, and also from the Observatory on its western point towards the Plains of Abraham. Within the Citadel are the various magazines, storehouses, and other buildings re- quired for the accommodation of a numerous Garrison ; and, immediately overhanging the precipice to the south, in a most picturesque situation looking perpendicularly downwards on the River, stands a beautiful row of build- ings, containing the mess rooms and barracks for the officers, their stables and spacious kitchens. The forti- fications, which are continued round the whole of the Up- per Town, consist of bastions connected by lofty curtains of solid masonry, and ramparts from twenty-five to thirty- five feet in height and about the same in thickness, brist- ling with heavy cannon, round towers, loopholed walls, b2 34 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOE. ■ii: i::: m' t,; and massive gates recurring at certain distances. On the summit of the Ramparts from Cape Diamond to the Artillery Barracks is a broad covered-way or walk, used as a place of recreation by the inhabitants, and command- ing a most agreeable view of the country towards the west. This passes over the top of St. John's and St. Louis Gate, where there is stationed a sergeant's guard. Above St. John's Gate there is at sunset one of the most beauti- ful views imaginable. The St. Charles gamboling, as it were, in the rays of the departing luminary, the light still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg until it fades away beyond the lofty mountains of Bonliomme and Tsounonthuan, present an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendour. — The city, being defended on the land side by its ramparts, is protected on the other sides by a lofty wall and parapet, based on the clift and commencing near the St. Charles at the Artillery Bar- racks. These form a very extensive range of buildings, the part within the Artillery-Gate being occupied as bar- racks by the officers and men of that distinguished corps, with a guard and mess room. The part without the Gate is used as magazines, storehouses, and offices for the Ordnance Department. These buildings were erected by the French before 1750 on the site of others which had formerly stood there. They are well secured against fire, and are nearly six hundred feet in length by about forty in depth. — ^Immediately adjoining the Artillery Barracks, and connecting the works on the left with their continua- tion along the St. Charles, stands Palace-Gate, having a guard-house attached on the right. This has lately beea QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 35 rebuilt, and is the most classical and beautiful of the five Gates, Though perfectly strong for all purposes of de- fence, it has an airy and light appearance, not unlike in design the gates of Pompeii. It stands at the northern extremity of Palace Street, which was so called from its leading to the Intendant's House or Palace, which former- ly stood on the beach of the St. Charles out-side of the Gate, on the site of the present Queen's Woodyard. This building was destroyed during the siege by the American troops under General Arnold in 1775. From Palace-Gate the fortifications are continued along the brow of the cliff overlooking'the mouth of the St. Charles until they reach Hope Gate, a distance of three hundred yards. A broad and level walk divides the outward wall from the possessions of the Community of the Hotel-Dieu. The wall near Hope-Gate and Guard-house is loopholed for musquetry. At Hope-Gate commences the gradual elevation of the ground which terminates at the eastern point of Cape Diamond. Beyond the Gate the wall is continued until it reaches a point opposite St. George Street and the store house at the angle of the Seminary Garden. Here it reaches the perpendicular cliff Sault cm Matelotf or Matelot''s (Sailor's) Leap, so called from a favourite dog of that name that there fell over the cliff, on part of which Champlain commenced his first settle- ment in 1608. From this eminence the Grand Battery, mounting a range of heavy guns carrying balls of thirty- two pounds, commands the Basin and Harbour below. In front of the Grand Battery, which extends to the Bishop's Palace, and where the escarpment of the cliff is nearly 36 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. three hundred feet above the water, the stone parapet is but a few feet high. The black artillery as Professor Silliman observes, " look like beasts of prey crouching and ready to leap upon their victims." — Close to the Bishop's Palace, long used as the place where the Provincial Legislature met previously to the re-union of the Canadas, and where it is once more about to meet, is Prescott-Gate with its Guard-house. Under its arch is I the principal avenue to the Lower Town by Mountain Street. It is protected by powerful defences, and by works which connect it on the right with the former Cas- tle of St. Louis. Here the stone-rampart forms part of that ruin, and is supported by buttresses built upon the solid rock, and immediately overlooking the Lower Town, at an elevation of more than two hundred feet. To the south-west side of the Castle is the Government Garden, one hundred and eighty yards long by seventy broad, within which a small battery commands part of the har- bour. In front the fortifications are continued three hun- dred yards, until they reach the foot of the Glacis or ac- clivity towards Cape Diamonc' , crowned at that point by the Round Tower and Flagstaff. — The extent of the Ramparts towards the land-side, from the south-west an- gle of the citadel to the cliff above the St. Charles, is stated to be eighteen hundred and thirty-seven yards. "Within this rampart is the Esplanade, a level space cover- ed with grass, between St. Louis and St. John Gates. Here are mounted the several guards on duty at the Citadel and other public building each forenoon, except Sabbath, at eleven o'clock ; and here occasional parades QUEBEC QUIDE BOOK. 37 acts or ac- of the Garrison take place, particularly on the Queen's birth-day. The circuit of the Fortifications enclosing the Upper Town is two miles and three quarters ; the total circumference outside the Ditches and space reserved by Government, on which no house can be built on the west side, is about three miles. — Generally speaking, the City may be said to be entirely surrounded by a lofty and strong wall of hewn stone, constructed with elegance as well as with regard to durability. The castellated appearance produced by the battlements, ditches, embrasures, round towers and gates, adds much to its grand and imposing effect from without. There are five Gates, opening in dif- ferent directions to thecountry, the suburbs, and the Lower Town. Towards the south-west are St. John's and St. Louis Gates, protected by out-works of great strength and powerful combmation. Through the latter is the road leading to the Plains of Abraham and the Kace-course. On the left of this road, on the brow of a slight ascent about halfway to the Race-Stand, is one of the four Martello Towers erected at dilTerent distances between the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles. On these are mounted cannon to sweep the undefended plain below ; and they are so constructed that, if taken by an enemy, they can be easily laid m ruins by the shot of the Garri- son, while on the side facing the Plains they are of im- mense thickness. Through St. John's Gate passes the road to the populous suburb of that name and to the beautiful village of St. Foy. Palace-Gate and Hope- Gate open to the St. Charles and the Lower Town. Prescott-Gate is the principal thoroughfare to the Lower 38 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. '4k \ Town, and notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent, heavy burdens are conveyed up with comparative ease by the little, but hardy, horses of Norman breed, which the carters generally employ. Hope Gate and Prescott Gate are called in honour of the Lieutenant Generals and Commanders-in-Chief, Henry Hope (1775) and Robert Prescott (1796-9). — Having made the circuit of the Fortifications, it seems necessary to iiotice the different barracks and military buildings for the accommodation of the troops composing the Garrison. Besides those con- tained within the Citadel and the Artillery Barracks, the spacious building in the Market-PIace, formerly the Col- lege of the Jesuits, has long been occupied by the Queen's troops under the name of the " Jesuits' Barracks." The principal entrance is from the jMarkct-Place, opposite the French Cathedral. To the loft of this entrance is a large door opening into a hall. Here is the room set apart for the Garrison Library, the property of the military, con- taining many valuable books and maps. A little beyond the Gate is the Barrack- olHcc, nearly opposite to the Scotch Church. — In the Place d'Armes, opposite to the Court-House, is the Commissariat Ofiice. — About halfway between this and St. Louis Gate is a building on the left, occupied as quarters for such olllcers of the Garrison as do not reside in the Citadel, in rear of which is the spaci- ous mess-room. — At the end of an avenue or court lead- ing out of St. Jjouis Street is the Military Hospital, a building completely provided with every necessary appointment. — Adjoining to the St. Louis Gate, and fronting to the Esplanade, is the Royal Engineer OlBce j QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 39 and in the rear are the spacious yard and workshops of the Royal Sappers and Miners, a detachment of which corps is always stationed in Quebec. The officers of the Royal Engineers have charge of the fortifications and of all military works. — The Government Laboratory is on the right hand of the road leading to the Citadel, opposite to the Royal Engineer Yard, and stands on the site of an old powder magazine, close to which the remains of Gen- eral Montgomery were interred on January 4th, 1776. The following elegant peroration is from the pen of Pro- fessor Silliman, who visited Quebec in 1819 : — " Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A military town — containing about twenty thousand inhabitants — most compactly and per- manently built — environed, as to its most important parts, by walls and gates — and defended by numerous heavy cannon — garrisoned by troops having the arms, the costume, the music, the dif^cipline, of Europe — foreign in language, features and origin, from most of those whom they are sent to defend — founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country — between three and four hundred miles from the ocean — in the midst of a great continent and yet displaying fleets of foreign merchantmen in its fine capacious bay — and show- ing all the bustle of a crowded sea-port — its streets nar- row, populous, and winding up and down almost mountain- ous declivities — situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe — exhibiting in its environs the beauty of an European capital — and yet in winter smarting with the cold of Sibera — governed by a people of different langu- 40 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. age and habits from the mass of the population — opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes and in the full enjoyment of every privilege, civil and re- ligious^. Such are the prominent features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec !" The Tourist will of course visit the Fall of Montmo- renci, and, if an admirer of nature in her lovely grandeur, may be induced thereafter to extend his excursion to the Falls of St. Anne (a distance of upwards of twenty miles fromj Quebec), which many travellers have pronounced unsurpassed in any quarter of the globe. For this pur- pose he will leave the City by passing over Dorchester Bridge across the St. Charles, whence he will pass along pleasant cottages and handsome villas to the village of Beauport, in which is conspicuous the Church with its three spires. The admirably managed Lunatic Asy- lum for Eastern Canada is situated close to the vil- lage. Before reaching the Mills a road on the left leads to the hamlet of Bourg Iloyal at the base of the mountains. Two miles beyond are the remains of an old French chateau with a scanty clearance embosomed by the forest. It was built by a French Intendant or Governor for his Mistress. Notwithstanding the se- clusion of the spot his wife discovered the secret, and found means to have her rival poisoned. The habi' tans superstitiously consider the spot as haunted by the spirit of the unhappy oae. during General Wolfe's siege the ladies of Quebec took shelter here, and were undis- covered. In the neighbourhood of the Fall the geologist may find not a little to interest him. The Fall is rear* QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 41 \y two hundred and fifty feet high, thus greatly exceeding the Falls of Niagara. It was named by Champlain in honour of his patron, the Duke de Montmorenci, prime minister of France. The mansion-house, close to the Fall, and commanding the best view of it, was built by General Haldimand, who was the last Governor of the Province of Quebec from 1778 to 1791. It was after- wards occupied by the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, and is now in the possession of P. Patterson, Esq., the proprietor of tlte extensive saw-mills at the foot of the Fall. Near this place Wolfe made his first attempt, and was repulsed with the loss of seven hundred Hessians. On the opposite side of the wooden bridge thrown across the Montmorenci, stands a house for the reception of travellers, whence is an excellent view of the Fall, as it embraces the village of Beauport and the city of Quebec. Another good view is from the top of the aquaduct, by which the water is conveyed for nearly a mile to the Mills. The Old Mill has ten saw-gates con- taining seventy saws, and eleven circular saAvs. The New Mill has two saw-gates with forty saws, and three circular saws. The extraordinary appearance, called the Natural Stcj^s^ is worthy of attention. It may be re- marked as an object of interest to the naturalist, that, when the St. Lawrence is frozen below the F»il, the level i'*e becomes a support on which the freezing spray, de- scending as sl*^ct, forms a stupendous deposit, and gradur?.li3r assumes a conical form of great dimensions towards the close of winter. These dimensions vary in each season according to the quantity of spray which the water pro- 42 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. :f,t 'llffff«P :l duces. In 1829 the cone attained the height of one hundred and twentj-six feet, the highest it has been ob- served to attain. The face of the cone next the Fall presents a stalactitical structure, occasioned by the dash- ing of the water against it. The whole is tinged with an earthy hue, which is no doubt derived from the very min- ute particles of tlie bed of the Moiitmorenci conveyed with the spray into the atmosphere. The formation of this cone may serve to explain the mode in which glaciers have been formed. It is manifest, that, were the supply of frozen spray never interrupted by an increase of tem- perature, as is annually the case, the cone's dimensions would ince5:santly increase. If the cone rested on an in- clined plane instead of a horizontal base, the enlarging bulk and increasing weight would at length cause its sub- sidence to lower levels. As the portion thus deposited would continue to receive accessions from above, a perma- nent frozen mass would be the result, and the cone would become a glacier. Professor Forbes treats of this sub- ject in a most interesting and scientific manner in his " Travels in the Alps." — It is \mnecessary to enumerate ihe variety of features in Canadian scenery which may induce the Tourist to loiter on the road between Mont- morenci and St. Anne. At this season of the year groups of Canadians of bo Ji sexes may be seen busily employed in hcwiding or beating llax. On most of the farms there is raised a quantity sullicient for the consumption of each family. Indeed the stranger cannot fail to have observed, that the country population is chielly clothed in home- §puQ woollen cloth and oarse linen, although English QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 43 'f| eight of one has been ob- tiext the Fall by the dash- inged with an the very min- nci conveyed rormation of ivhich glaciers ere the siijjply urease of tem- p's dimensions !sted on an in- the eiilarging cause its sub- llius deposited Jovc, a pcrnia- lie cone would ts of this sub- nanner in his to enumerate y which may Iween Mont- e year groups sily cmj)Ioyed e farms there ption of each live observed, ed in home- )iigh English broad-cloth and Irish linens may to a limited extent be displayed on Sabbaths and fete-days. Chateau Richer, one of the very few ruins in Canada, belonging to the Seminary, is interet^ting from historical associations. Its environs afford abundant sport to snipe-shooters. Two miles beyond the Chateau it is worth the Tourist's while to devote half an hour to the l^alls of La Puce. The Church of " La bonne Ste. Anne" has long been an ob- ject of interest from the miraculous cures said to have been wrought on the visitors to the shrine. The walls display crutches and other helps to suffering humanity, with which the halt and the lame were enabled to dispense, and which they left as memorials of the efficacy of their faith in the power of the Saint ! In connection with St. Anne it may be stated that pigeons in vast numbers yearly visit Canada, when the inhabitants not only get an ample supply for their own subsistence, but send such numbers to market tliat in (.Quebec they are sold at as low a price as a shilling per dozen, and sometimes even at a less rate. The parishioners of St. Anne are much spoken of for the successful means which they have adopted for killing and taking alive Ihousands of these birds ; and the stranger on enrpiiry can learn the method by which the sportsman seldom faks to bring down all the pigeons as they settle on the loftiest trees, and how, by means of perpendicular nets and poles managed by pulleys, whole flocks are entrapped. 'JVo miles beyond the village of St. Anne, at the Toll-bridge on the river of this name, the Tourist may be conjfortably accommodated, and will meet with civility and kindness. Hence he can procure u QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. a guide to the Falls, which are situated about three miles farther on. The ascent commands extensive views of Quebec and the surrounding country. After continuing his journey for a mile and a half on a level but rather rough and wearisome path through a forest, the Tourist suddenly descends and finds himself enclosed in a rocky and wooded valley, through the centre of which rushes the St. Anne, and, forcing itself through a narrow chasm of the rocks at an angle of forty-five degrees, continues to roar and tumble to the Eiver below. We cannot afford space here for a description of the variety of awfully grand and imposing scenes, which a visit to these magnificent Falls will present to the Tourist's view. SuflBce it to say, that the time slips unconsciously away, and, surprised by the information that he has been on the spot for hours, he at length reluctantly turns away, con- soling himself with the rellection that he can never efface the sublime picture from his mind. The Tourist should next cross from Quebec to Pointe Levi, with which a steam-ferry-boat keeps up a half- hourly communication, with the view of visiting the Falls of the Chaudiere, distant about eight miles. On ascend- ing the bank, and frorr. different points along the entire road to the mouth of the Chaudiere, he will be gratified with imposing views of Quebec and its shipping, and sur- rounding scenery, including the Isle of Orleans, the Fall of Montmorenci, and the Plains of Abraham. Several neat villas adorn the road, in which citizens of Quebec re- side during the summer season. At a short distance be- yond Lauzon, the seat of Sir Henry Caldwell, which is in QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 45 three miles e views of continuing but rather the Tourist in a rocky iiich rushes TOW chasm , continues iVe cannot variety of ^.it to these ist's view, usly away, leen on the iway, con- ever efface I to Pointe up a half- r the Falls 3n ascend- thc entire >c gratified I, and sur- », the Fall Several Quebec re- >tance be- which is in a charming situation and admirable for its classic archi- tecture, you cross the Etchemin by a wooden bridge. At its embouchre is a large causeway leading to this gentle- man's mills, an establishment well worthy of inspection. Thereafter the left side of the road is over shadowed by lofty rocks till it reaches the Chaudiere, which is crossed by a ferry. Three miles beyond is a new road to the left, by pursuing which for a mile, availing yourself of a guide, who may be procured hard by, you will reach this celebrated Fall. Although yielding in grandeur to Nia- gara and Montmorenci, it possesses features more inter- esting than either. The river, in its course of one hun- dred miles over a rugged bed full of rapids and falls, is here narrowed to a width of between three hundred and four hundred feet, and is n^-ecipitated over a height of about one hundred and thirty feet, preserving the charac- teristic features of its boiling waters till it mingles with the St. Lawrence. Hence it has received the appropri- ate name of Chaudiere or Caldron. Instead of descend- ing in one continuous sheet, it is divided by large project- ing rocks into three channels or cataracts, which however unite before reaching the basin below. A globular figure is imparted to the descending volumes of brilliant white foam, in consequence of the deep excavations of the rocks, and the clouds of spray produce in the sunshine a most brillianc variety of pr'smatic colours. The dark green foliage of the dense forests that overhang the torrent on both sides, forms a striking contrast with its snow-white foam. If the Tourist should be so mindei', on returning half way to Pointe Levi, he may visit the Falls of the ,!■ 46 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. Etcliemin by taking the road to his right., On returning to Pointe Levi, he may find time to walk to Aubigny Church, and wander for a while amongst the glades in front of it. In recrossing the St. Lawrence, the Tourist may be reminded of the striking contrast which the winter season presents here on land and water. Then the river is generally choked up Avith broken fields of ice exhibiting an endless variety of fantastic appearances. The Itahi- tans cross in canoes, and are frequently obliged to haul and push them forward among tha blocks of ice. The ferrymen do their utmost to prevmt the ice from taking, as it deprives them of their usual m.eansof livelihood while it lasts. It is a rare occurrence for the ice to be quite firm between Quebec and Pointe Levi. When this is the case, it is called th 2)o?it or bridge ; and a sort of jubilee is indulged in, and persons are seen enjoying themselves in every direction by sleighing, sliding, skating, curling, &c. A ready communication betwixt both shores then takes place, as the Grand Voijcr, or Chief Surveyor of High- ways, mark out, by means of pine-branches as beacons, a road, over which hay, firewood, and other bulky articles are transported in iraincaux or sledges. A similar lay- ing-out of roads takes place on the taking of the River at all the important thoroghfares, as in front of Montreal, Three Rivers, &;c. The channel between the Isle of Or- leans and the North Shore is frozen over annually, when tlie produce of that fertile spot can be conveyed to mar- ket. I i QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 47 " EXPEDITION OF 1759."* By the common consent of the world, Quebec is for ever identified with the renown of the two great nations that contended for its possession ; and the ^i story of this period will always be referred to as equally interesting, attractive and important. The varied incidents of the expedition — the arrival before the town — the attack of the lire-ships — the fruitless engagement at Montmorenci — the bombardment from Point Levi — the landing under the Heights of Abraham — the battle of the Plains — the death of the two heroic leaders — the surrender — the subse- quent fight at ■ illery — the siege by the French — and the arrival of the English fleet, form a series of spirit-stirring events, which possess the mind of the reader with the eager interest of vicissitude, as they in turn develope the great game of war, played by the most skilful hands, anl for the noblest stake ! The scene of this heroic drama, the actors, and the event will be for ever memorable. The tale has been handed down by various writers ; but to do justice to the narration it requires the pen of Wolfe himself. Wolfe, having safely landed his army on the 27th June near the Church of St. Laurent on the Isle of Orleans, where they encamped in one line about a mile from the shore, proceeded to the west end of the Island to recon- noitre the position of the enemy. The view he then be held was most magnilicent and imposing. The French army extended along the sloping ground upon the north Extracted from Hawkins' Guide to Quebec. 48 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. .'s store, and occupied the heights of Beauport from Quebec on the right to the Cascades of Montmorenci on the left. The village of Beauport rose in the centre among the bat- talions of old France ; the right rested upon the St. Charles with the beautiful village of Charlesbourg in its rear ; the left extended to the chasm at the Falls. The whole front was entrenched, and protected from the En- glish cannon, while all accessible points along the shore were occupied and defended by batteries and by every means which the science of war provides. Beyond the right a bridge had been thrown over the St. Charles in order to communicate with the town and garrison. This was protected by tetes du pont and strong works at each end, as well as by two batteries, of eight guns each, mounted upon hulks sunk in the channel. The French army was composed of about thirteen tiiousand men, six battalions of which were regulars, and the remainder well disciplined Canadian militia with some cavalry and Indians. The right was under the command of Brigadier General the Baron de St. Ours, the centre, of Brigadier General De Senezergues, and the left of M. Herbin. The garrison was commanded by M. De Bamezay. Although the Fleet had safely arrived at the place of disembarkation, no sooner were the troops on shore than it met with one of those storms of wind and rain which are frequent in the St. Lawrence. The hurricane was of such violence as to do great damage to the transports and boats of the fleet by their driving on board each other. It being absolutely necessary for the combined opera- QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 49 tions of the two services that the English should possess the command of the basin, General Monckton, second in command, was detached on the night of the 29th with four battalions, with orders to land at Beaumont, and to clear the south shore from that village to Pointe-L6vi, which post he was to occupy and fortify, a duty which he accomplished with little opposition. Here he erected batteries and works, the remains of which may be traced at the present day. In the meantime Colonel Guy Carle- ton, afterwards Lord Dorchester, established himself at the western point of the Isle of Orleans, where he erected works for the defence of the magazines, stores, and hospitals. Montcalm, who too late perceived the importance of the work at Poin' Levi, sent a corps of sixteen hundred men against them ; but these troops, unluckily for them- selves and for the English General, who was anxious to defeat so large a detachment, fell into confusion, and, having fired upon each other instead of upon the enemy, returned in utter discomfiture. General Wolfe, perceiving that the ground to the east- ward of the Fall of Montmorenci, on which rested the left flank of the French army, was higher than that on the enemy's side, determined to take possession of it ; and, having passed the North Channel, he encamped there on the 9th July, not without severe skirmishing and consider- able loss. Here he erected batteries which greatly galled t\»v left of the entrenchments. This attack, which, look- ing at the difficulties of the ground, appears to have been carefully considered and planned with judgment, took m 50 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK, « 5 place on the 31st July. It failed through want of cau- tion and excess of courage on the part of the grenadiers, although the grounding of the boats upon the ledge, some distance from the shore, was doubtless the primary cause of the disaster. The return of the British loss at the bat- tle of Montmorenci is stated to have been one hundred and eighty-two killed and six hundred and fifty wounded. The failure at Montmorenci had made a deep impres- sion upon the mind of Wolfe. He had a spirit impatient of anticipated censure, unable to bear disappointment where he was conscious of having deserved success, and he cherished an eager desire to retrieve the laurels which he feared some might think had fallen from his brow. His situation, however, was such that he despaired of find- ing an opportunity ; he was often heard to sigh, and ob- served to betray inward agitation. His constitution, nat- urally delicate, gave way under his excitement : which, added to the great fatigues he had undergone, brought on a. fever and dysentery, and for some time totally disabled him. Sueh was the affection of the whole army for "Wolfe that his s'ckness made a general impression upon them ; and, when his health, after ten day's severe illness, per- mitted him to return to the camp, and once more to visit the guards and posts as usual, they gave the strongest proofs of the most heartfelt joy ; and his presence infused fresh spirits into the troops. Every preparation having been made, and Admiral Saunders having engaged to co-operate by a feigned attack upon the intrenchments at Beauport, the eventful day approached when the blow was to be struck. Rear « Th provisio the Car to Mon that G€ vifforou determi readine embark the Fn gets on them fi must b any mi battali( tion, a When left to and en battle. countr of sole weak try. QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 51 Admiral Holmes had the command of the naval force em- ployed in covering the disembarkation, the immediate man- agement of which was entrusted to Captain Chads, a name to this day distinguished in the Pwoyal Navy. On the r2th September Gen. Wolfe issued the following order : " Oti board Ills Majesty'^s ship Sutherland, " The enemy's force is now divided : great scarcity of provisions is in their camp, and universal discontent among the Canadians. The second officer in command is gone to Montreal, or St. John's ; which gives reason to think that General Amherst is advancing into the colony. A vigorous blow struck by the army at this juncture may determine the fate of Canada. Our troops below are in readiness to join us : all the light artillery and tools are embarked at Pointe Levi ; and the troops will land where the French seem least to expect it. The first body that gets on shore is to march directly to the enemy, and drive them from any little post they may occupy. The officers must be careful that the succeeding bodies do not by any mistake fire upon those who go before them. The battalions must form upon the upper ground with expedi- tion, and be ready to charge whatever presents itself. When the artillery and troops are landed, a corps will be left to secure the landing place, while the rest march on, and endeavour to bring the French and Canadians to a battle. The officers and men will remember what their country expects from them, and what a determined body of soldiers, inured to war, is capable of doing against five weak French battalions, mingled with disorderly peasan- try. The soldiers must be attentive and obedient to their 52 (iUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. ■V 1 officers, and the officers resolute in the execution of their duty." The plan adopted was, that the troops should be con- veyed some distance up the river for the purpose of de- ceiving the enemy, and amusing M. De Bougainville. They were afterwards in the night to drop down with the tide, and to land on the north shore, about a mile above Cape Diamond, in the expectation of being able to ascend the heights of Abraham, and to gain the open ground westward of the city, where it was most open to attack. Nothing could be more hazardous in the execution than this design : the slightest accident might derange the whole course of the operations ; a night attack was always liable to mischance : yet the plan was carried into effect not only with complete success, but with singular ease and good fortune. At night on the 12th, the main body quartered on the south shore was ordered to embark in flat-bottomed boats, and to proceed up the River with the tide of flood. The first division Avas composed of the light infantry, com- manded by Lieutenant Colonel the Honourable William Howe, the regiments of Bragg, Kennedy, Lascelles and Anstruther, with a detachment of Highlanders, and the Grenadiers of the Royal American Regiment, under the command of Brigadiers General Monckton and Murray. The night was clear and star-light, and Bougainville, per- ceiving the boats, marched up the north bank of the river to prevent any landing. About an hour before day-light, the boats fell down the river with the tide of ebb with great rapidity by the help of oars, and keeping close to \x tion of their )uld be con- pose of de- 5ougainville. ►wn with the mile above le to ascend )pen ground a to attack, edition than ilerange the k was always id into effect Lilar ease and ered on the tomed boats, flood. The Pantry, com- ible William iascelles and ers, and the it, under the ind Murray, ainviile, per- of the river re day-light, of ebb with ing close to QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 53 the shore. They were followed at some interval by the shipping, and both luckily escaped observation. About day-light on the 13th, they arrived at a cove below Sil- lery, now for ever celebrated as Wolfe's Cove, which was the place chosen for the disembarkation. The light infantry, which had been carried a short distance below by the rapidity of the tide, were the first that landed, and, scrambling up the woody precipice, the ascent of which was so difficult that the soldiers were obliged to pull them- selves up by the roots and boughs of trees, displaced a French guard at the top under the command of Captain De Verger, which defended the narrow path, and thereby enabled the rest of the division to reach the summit. The boats in the meantime had returned for the second division under Brigadier General Townshend, which ar- rived and landed in like good order. General Wolfe was with the first division, and he was one of the first on shore. On seeing the dllTiculty of ascending the precipice, he ob- served in a familiar strain to Captain Donald M' Donald, a very gallant officer of Fraser's Highlanders, who com- manded the advanced guard of the light infantry : — ^^ I don't believe there is any possibility of getting up ; but you must do your endeavour.'"' The exultation of Wolfe on thus finding liimself, with scarcely any loss, on the heights Abraham, may easily be conceived. After more than two months of solicitude the object of his long and anxious wishes was before him ; his only remaining hope was that Montcalm would give him battle ; of the result he entertained no doubt. The hour of triumph so long sought for, so eagerly expected, was at f.': 54. QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. hand ; he was determined that day to decide the supre- macy of England or France, in America, before the walls of her most important fortress. THE BATTLE OF THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM — DEATH OF WOLFE AND MONTCALM. Any one who visits the celebrated Plains of Abraham, the scene of this glorious fight, equally rich in natural beauty and historic recollections, will admit that no site could be found better adapted for displaying the evolutions of military skrll and discipline, or the exertion of physical force and determined valour. The battle-ground presents almost a level surface from the brink of the St. Lawrence to the St. Foy road. The Grand Alice, or road to Cap E-ouge, running parallel to that of St. Foy, passes through its centre. That road was comUianded by a field redoubt, a four-gun battery on the English left, which was captured by the light 'nfantry, as mentioned in General Townshcnd's letter. The remains of this battery are distinctly seen near to the race-stand. There were also two other re- doubts, one upon the rising ground in the rear of Mr. C. Campbell's house, the death scene of Wolfe, and the other towards the St. Foy road, which it intended to command. On the site of the country-seat called March- mont there was also a small redoubt commanding the in- trenched path leading to the Cove. This was taken possession of by the advanced guard of the light infantry, immediately on ascending the hoights. At the period of the bat lie the Plains were without fences or enclosures, and extended to the walls on the St. Louis side. The surface was dotted over with bushes, and the woods oa de the supre- fore the walls AM — DEATH of Abraham, ^h in natural t that no site the evolutions )n of physical ound presents St. Lawrence r road to Cap lasses through ield redoubt, a was captured Townshend's islinctly seen two other re- ear of Mr. C. olfe, and the t intended to called March- mding- the in- is was taken lij^ht infantry, tlic period of )r enclosures, s side. The the woods oa QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 55 either flank were more dense than at present, affording shelter to the French and Indian marksmen. In order to understand the relative position of the two armies, if a line be drawn to the St. Lawrence from the General Hospital, it will give nearly the front of the French at ce i o'clock, after Montcalm had deployed into line. His right reached beyond the St. Foy road, where he made dispositions to turn the 1^ ft of the English. An- other parallel line, somewhere in advance of Mr. C. G. Stewart's house on the St. Foy road, will give the front of the British army before Wolfe charged at the head of the Grenadiers of the 22nd, 40th, and 45th regiments, who had acquired the honourable title of the Louisbourg Grenadiers from having been distinguished at the capture of that place under Ir'^^ own command in 1758. To meet the attempt of Mont . • to turn the British left, General Townshend formed tiie 15th regiment c/i, potoicCy or presenting a double front. The light infantry were in rear of the left, and the reserve was placed near the right, formed in eight subdivisions, a good distance apart. The English had been about four hours in possession of the Plains, and were completely prepared to receive them, when the French advanced with great resolution. They approached oblicjucly by the left, having marched l.v)m Beauport that morning. C)u being formed, they com- menced the attack with great vivacity and animation, fire- ing by platoons. It was observed, however, that their lire was irregular and ineffective, whereas that of the English was so well directed and maintained as to throw the French i*jto immediate confusion. It must be stated 56 QUEBEC GUIDE JJOOK. hi that, although the French army was more numerous, it was principally composed of colonial troops, who did not support the reo-ular forces as firmly as was expected of them. Montcdlm on his death-bed expressed himself bit- terly ii« this respect. The English troops, on the con- trary, were nearly regulars of approved courage, well oflBcered, and und. perfect discipline. The Grenadiers burned to revenge their defeat at Monimorenci. and it was at their head that Wolfe, with great military tact, placed himself at the commencement of the action. About eight o'clock some sailors had succeeded in dragging up the precipice a light six-pounder, which, although the only gun used by the English in the action, being remarably well served, played with great success on the centre column cs it advanced, and more than once compelled the enemy to change the disposition of his forces. The French had two lield-picces in the action. The despatches mention a remarkable proof of coolness and presence of mind on the part of the troops who had no hopes but in victory, no chance of safety but in beat- i ^,g the enemy, for, had they been defeated, re-embarka- tipn would have been impracticable. The English were ordered to reserve their fire until the French were within forty yards. They observed those orders most strictly, bearing with patience the incessant fire of the Canadians and Indians. It is also stated that Wolfe ordered the men to load with an additional bullet, which did great ex- ecution. The two generals, animated with equal spirit, met each other at the head of their respective troops where the QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK, 57 battle was most severe. Montcalm was on the left of the French, at the head of the regiments Langucdoc^ Beamed and Guieniic ; Wolfe on the right of the English, at the head of the 28th, and the Loiiisbourg Grenadiers. Here the greatest exertions were made under the eyes of the leaders ; the action in the centre and left was compara- tively a skirmish. The severest fighting took place be- tween the right of the race-stand and the Martello towers. The rapidity and elfect of the English fire hav- ing thrown the French into confusion orders were given, even before the smoke cleared away, to charge with the bayonet. Wolfe, exposing himself at the head of the battalions, was singled out by some Canadian marksmen on the enemy's left, and had already received a slight wound in the wrist. Regardless of this, and unwilling to dispirit his troop::, he folded a handkerchief round his arm, and, putting himself at the head of the Grenadiers, led them on to the charge, which was completely successful. It was bought however with the life of their heroic leader. He was struck with a second ball in the groin, but still pressed on ; and just as the enemy were about to give way, he received a third ball in his breast and fell mortally wounded. Dear, indeed, was the price of a victory pur- chashed by the death of Wolfe, of a hero whose uncom- mon merit was scarcely known and appreciated by his country before a premature fate removed him for ever from her service. lie met, however, a glorious death in the moment of victory, a victory which, in- deciding the fate of Canada, commanded the applause of the wonu, aud classed Wolfe c2 58 aUEBEC GtriDE BOOK. among the mosc celebrated Generals of ancient and modern times. Happily, he survived his wound long enough to learn the success of the day. When the fatal ball took effect, his principal care was, that he should not be seen to fall. " Support me," said he to an officer near him, " let not my brave soldiers see me drop. The day is ours, keep it !" He is then carried a little way to the rear, where he requt .ed water to be brought from a neighbouring well to quench his thirst. The charge still continued, when the officer, on whose shoulder the dying hero leaned, exclaimed, " They run ! they run !" '' Who run ?" asked the gallant Wolfe with some emotion.* The officer replied ; " The enemy. Sir : they give way every- where !" *^ What," said he, " do they run already ? Pray, one of you go to Colonel Burton, and tell him to march Webb's regiment with all speed down to St. Charles l(iver, to cut off the retreat of the fugitives from the bridge. Now God be praised, I die happy !" So saying, the youthful hero breathed his last. He reflected that he had done his duty, and he knew he should live forever in the memory of a grateful country. His ex- piring moments were cheered with the British shout of victory. Such was the death of Wolfe upon the Plains of Abraham, at the early age of thirty-two years ! It has been well observed, that " death, more glorious and at- tended with circumstances more picturesque and interest- ing, is no where to be found in the annals of history." His extraordinary qualities, and singular fate, have afford- ed a fruitful theme of panegyric to the historian and the poet to QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 59 poet to the present day. How they were appreciated by his gallant companions in arms, may be learned by the subjoined extract from a letter written after the battle by general, afterwards Marquess, Townshend to one of his friends in England : " I am not ashamed to own to you that my heart does not exult in the midst of this success. I have lost but a friend in General Wolfe, our country has lost a sure support, and a perpetual honour. If the world were sensible at how dear a price we have purchased Quebec in his death, it would damp the public joy. Our best consolation is that Providence seemed not to pro- mise that he should remain long among us. He was him- self sensible of the weakness of his constitution, and de- termined to crowd into a few years actions that would have adorned length of life." The feeling and affecting manner in which Wolfe is spoken of in this letter, and its elegance of expression, confer equal honour upon the head and heart of the accomplished writer. The spot consecrated by the fall of General Wolfe in the charge made by the Grenadiers upon the left of the French line, will to the latest 'day be visited with deep interest and emotion. The place where Wolfe fell is indicated by a neat Cor- inthian pillar surmounted by a Homan helmet and sword. It is protected by a substantial iron railing and bears the following inscription on the side facing the St. Lawrence. " This pi'lar was erected by the British Army in Canada, A- D. 1849. Ilis Excellency Leutenant General Sir Benjamin D'Urban, G.C.B., K.C.H., &c., Commander of the Forces, to replace that erected by Governor General y // 60 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. w.- Lord Aylmer, G.C.B., in 1832 which was broken and de« faced and is deposited beneath." On the side facing the Plains of Abraham the monu- ment bears the following simple inscription. HERE DIED WOLFE VICTORIOUS. Montcalm received his fatal wound in the front rank of the French left, and died at five o'clock on the morning of the 14th September. He was buried in an excavation made by the bursting of a shell within the precincts of the Ursuline Convent, a fit resting-place for the remains of a man who died fighting for the honour and defence of his country. The following regiments shared the glories of the day : —namely the 15th, 28th, 35th, 43rd, 47tb, 48th, 58th, 60th, 2nd and 3rd battalions 78th Fraser's Highlanders, and the Grenadiers of the 22nd, 40th, and 45th. Total of all ranks, including General Oflicers, four thousand eight hundred and twenty-six, of whom sixty-one were killed, and six hundred and three wounded. The French force, including Militia, amounted to seven thousand five hundred and twenty. The remains of Wolfe were conveyed to England for interment with all honour and respect on board the Royal William of eighty-four guns. On the 17th November, the body was landed at Portsmouth. During the solemni- ty all the honours that could be paid to the memory of a ^ gallant oflScer were rendered to the remains of Wolfe. The QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 6t corpse was privately interred at Greenwich on the 20th.^ * During our residence in England, in 1841, superintending the engraving of the Plan of the Battle, we were politely permitted by the surviving branch of the family to visit the vault, which is under the parish Church of Greenwich. It was with feelings which we cannot describe, that we placed the key in the dor over which is inscribed on a marble slab, ** The Family Vault of Maj 07'" General James Wolfe, 1759,") disclosing- to us the resting-place of that il- lustrious Hero. We were accompanied by a few friends, and two old veteran seamen of Greenwich Hospital who solicited permission. Upwards of fourscore years had passed away since the memorable victory and glorious death. The vault exhibited to us three coffins, that of the Father, the Mother, and the Son : — we gently wiped the dust from the Coffin plate, and found the following unpretending inscription thereon : — Major General JAMESWOLFE, Aged 32 years. On the centre Coffin is the following inscription : — Mrs. HENRIETTA WOLFE, Died 2Glh Scptr., 1764, Aged 60 Years. On tbo Coffin to the left is the following : — The Honble. Lieutenant Genl. EDWARD WOLFE, Died March 26th, 1759, Aged 74 Years. The vault was in perfect order, and no appearance of decay could be observed on the Coffins, save the ravages of the moth. Not a word was spoken, and all stood uncovered. Before retiring we placed I m ■i^ A: 62 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. ii The news of the failure of Wolfe at Montmorenci reached England on the morning of the 16 th October. It was made known to the public in an extraordinary Gazette of that date, and caused a general gloom. The satisfaction with which they received the glorious accounts of victory brought by Colonel Hale, on the same evening with the publication of the Gazette, may well be imagined. A day of public thanksgiving was set apart by authority for the signal success of His Majesty's arms. The House of Commons addressed His Majesty to erect a national monument to the memory of Wolfe in West- minster Abbey, which was carried into effect, and to this day remains an object of patriotic interest and exultation.* We take it for granted that our Tourist has no inten- tion of terminating his tour with Quebec and its interest- ing scenery. For our own part, speaking from experi- ence, we can assure him that a visit to the river Sague- nay, unquestionably one of the most remarkable in many respects on this continent, will amply repay him for the money, time, and trouble which he may expend in it. With the view of accomplishing this object, he will do well to ascertain on landing at Quebec how soon the steamer may start, which makes occasional trips to the wreath of laurel upon the Coffin, and deposited in the vault a copy of the Quebec Mercury, of 21st November, 1839, containing a list of subscribers names to our engraving, commemorating the glorious victory and death. — Ji. Hawkins. * Here terminate our extracts from Mr. Hawkins's valuable work on Quebec, of which we again cordially recommend every traveller ^to possess himself. V QUEBEC GUroE BOOK. 63 Rividre du Loup and the Saguenay, that he .may so ar- range his excursions for a few days around the city as not to let slip this most convenient way of visiting the grand scenery of the noblest tributary of the St. Lawrence. If our Tourist should be of, an accommodating spirit, desir- ous of adventures by land and flood, and of studying the characters of the Canadian people, he will find little diffi- culty in striking a bargain with some skipper, and trans- ferring his luggage on board some one of the smacks or schooners that trade to and from the Saguenay. In sail- ing down the basin, which is between three and four miles wide, one cannot fail to be struck with the imposing ap- pearance of the Citadel-city with its tin-covered cupolas, domes, and roofs. This capacious basin is in some places twenty-eight fathoms deep ; and its water has no saline taste, although the spring-tide ordinarily rises from seven- teen to eighteen feet, and the neap-tide from thirteen to fourteen. About five miles below the city the River is divided into the North and South Channels by the Isle of Orleans, which is nearly twenty miles long and about five broad. Like the island of Montreal, it forms a county. It is next to it in size, and approaches it in fertility of soil, furnishing Quebec with large quantities of grain and most sorts of provisions. Its fruits, especially apples and plums, though attaining to a greater degree of perfection than elsewhere in the District of Quebec, are inferior to those of Montreal It was originally called the Isle of Bacchus from the number of wild vines. A good road en- compasses the whole island, and several cross it. It con- tains five parishes, three of which are watered by the South ,li'l 64« QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. '.I » Channel. The church and tidy villages of St. Laurent and St. Jean are situated close upon the shore. Patrick's Hole, a little to the west of the former, is a well sheltered cove, where outward-bound vessels frequently come to anchor, and wait final instructions for sailing. The highest part of the island is just above Patrick's Hole, about four miles from the western extremity. On the south side of this elevation is placed the second of the chain of thirteen telegraphs that during the last war extended from Quebec to Green Island, which lies opposite to the mouth of the Saguenay. These had been discontinued and taken down for some years, but have since been re-established as far as Grosse Isle, for the purpose of communicating with the Quarantine Establishment there. In sailing down the River, the Tourist may be reminded that the trip to the head of steam-navigation on the Saguenay is entirely in the District of Quebec, that the counties of Montmorenci and Saguenay intervene betwixt the Fall of Montmorenci and the mouth of the Saguenay, the latter county occupying, however, double the frontage of the former, and that from near Pointe Levi the four counties of Bellechasse, L'Islet, Kamouraska, and Ilimouski extend in succession to the extreme District of Gaspe. A level tract of land, varying in width, extends from thei River to a range of mountains, forming a continuation of the Alle- ghanies and terminating the prospect in the direction of Maine State and New Brunswick. The greater portion of this tract is under cultivation, and presents a striking contrast with the dark hue of the forests in the receding back-ground. At a short distance from the shore passes QUEBEC QUmr BOOK. 65 Laurent and trick's Hole, altered cove, le to anchor, highest part J, about four outh side of n of thirteen from Quebec louth of the and taken B-established inmunicating In sailing led that the Saguenay is counties of t the Fall of f^, the latter tage of the our counties )«ski extend ^. A level liQ River to )f the Alle- hrection of iter portion a striking le receding lore passes the highway, on either side of which is a succession of cottages and farm-houses, painted in a variety of hues, white predominating. The dwelling-houses are of wood, and the roofs are covered with thin pieces of ash, called shingles, which are nailed on in the same manner as slates jye in England. A parish-church with its tin-roof and belfry shining in the sun, overtopping the houses of a surround- ing village, presents itself to the view at intervals of five or six miles. The seigniories, that extend along shore, and were granted when Canada belonged to France, are still chiefly possessed by French Canadians. According to the French laws the property of parents is at their death divided among their children. Large farms have thereby been split into small ones, and the new occupants, for the same reasons which guided their fathers, have placed their dwelling-houses and their granges, or barns, on the road side, so that the entire farming population, with the different tradespeople which such a population require, are settled in a nearly continuous line. From the River are seen the fences, forming the boundary of farms of great length and of very disproportionate breadth. In some instances the breadth is only a sixtieth part of the length. A few miles below Patrick's Cove are seen on the right shore the church of St. Michel and St. \ ul- licr, near each of which is a telegraph station. On pass- ing the eastern end of the Isle of Orleans the River widens to eleven and twelve miles, and is beautifally varied by groups of islands, particularly those lying off the west end of Crane Island. Here Cape Tourment is seen rear- ing its summit up to the height of eighteen hundred feet, 66 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. . 1 and the lofty mountains behind bound the distant view on the north. On the southern side of Grosse Isle (Big- Island, so called comparatively with many smaller ones around) is the C^uarantine Establishment, otV which all merchant vessels are obliged to anchor till they undergo examination by the Medical ISuperintcnduut appointed by Government, and, if not detained are allowed to proceed to Quebo' . At the liazaretto iicre live thousand emi- grants died of ship-fever in 184-7. In comiection with this statement it is lamentable to be recorded, that about four thousand emigrants jierished at Montreal, and that about twenty thousand, chielly Irish, perished either at sea or in the (Government sheds of this Province in 184<7. Several medical men and clergymen, who caught the in- fection during the discharge of their perilous duly, fell victims. A little below are seen the church and village of St. Thomas on the Jlivicre du Sud, over which is built a handsome bridge, the " Ivegent's Bridge.' On the other side of this river is a church dedicated to St. Peter. The soil in this locality is so productive, especially in corn of every species, that it has obtained for it the distingu- ishing epithet of the '" Granary of the Lower District." Crane Island and Little (roose Island, which at high water appear two islands, are at low water connected by an isthmus alVording ready passage in chardtcs, Sec. They are together about twelve miles in length, and are well peopled and cultivated, producing wheat nuich beyond their own consumption. The marshes produce abundance of fine hay, and alVord pasture sufllcient for upwards of two thousand head c. cattle. These islands were origin- QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 67 tant view on e Isle (Big mailer ones J* whicli all icy undergo •pointed by to proceed >«Jsand erni- loction with that about ^U and that ti either at •e in 1S4.7. 'it the in- i^iilj, fell 'ind village ich is bin'lt 1 the other '^t. Peter. Ily in corn distingu- District." at high ected by c. Tiiey are well t^eyond undancc vards of 5 origin- ally appendages of the seigniory of ruvi6re du Sud, but many years ago became the property of Mr. M^Pherson, and arc now generally called " M'Pherson's Island." The residence of the proprietrix is at the N. E. end. On the north side is a church with a village. Soon is seen the church of L'Islet de St. Jean on a point of land, which is completely isolated at high water. Hence has arisen the name of the seigniory, which has extended it- self to the county, which fronts the llivor foi thirty-eight miles. — It is worthy of notice that the St. Lawrence, in its course from the Jsle of Orleans to beyond the mouth of the Saguenay,is irregularly divided into two or three channels, called the North, Middle and South, by a series of islands connected with each other by rocky or sandy formations, many of which are visible at low water. This circumstance, and that of shoals frLMjuently stretching out from the south- ern shore, narrow in many places the deep water, and ren- der the na\ ioation both intricate and danoerous. This is eminently the case with tiie Channel beyond the Riviere du Sud, named the Tret ret sc. 'i'hough the River is here thirteen miles across, yet the Jsle aux Coudres (Filbert Island), the shoal of St. Roch, and that called the J^ng" li^h lumk, so interrupt, the fair-way that this passage, which is usually chosen by pilots, does not exceed in width seventeen hundred or eighteen hundred yards between the buoys that mark the edge of the shoals. This traverse y or the " Narrows," presents the most intricate navigation below Quebec from the number, stren{?th, and irregulr-rity of the currents. The ebb-tide runs at the rate of seven knots, and the Hood at the rate of five or six, and 68 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. ri tliere is no anchorage. On this account large vessels require to consult the proper time of the tide for pass- ing without accident. The distance from Quebec to the Light-vessel at the Traverj^e is fifty-five miles. Coudres Island is the largest below Quebec except Orleans. It was settled at a very early period, forms a parish by itself, and has a church. It is tolerably fertile, but requires its produce for its own population. It be- longs to the ecclesiastics of the Seminary of Quebec, to whom it was granted in 1687. After passing the Traverse the settlements on St. Paul's Bay on the North Shore, enclosed within an amphitheatre of mountains, pre- sent themselves to view. Here commences the county of Kamouraska, which fronts the River for thirty miles. The tract of country watered by the Ouelle is very pro- ductive and regularly transports to Quebec many market- able articles. Near the entrance of the Ouelle into the St. Lawrence a porpoise fishery was carried on to a con- siderable extent. The village of Kamouraska is in sum- mer much enlivened by visitants, who resort to it for sea- bathing. It has the reput.ation of being one of the healt'.iiest spots in the Lower Province. The islands of Kamouraska are of little value, being almost bare rocks. They afford shelter, however, in stormy weather to num- bers of small vessels that are continally passing hereabouts. The general aspect of the country here deserves the at- tention of the jjeolooical observer. From the bank of the River a very level tract stretches almost to the foot of the mountainous range behind. The even surface of this tract is in various parts singularly embossed with abrupt QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 69 masses of granite, varying from twenty to thirty yards of perpendicular height, and embracing a circumference of three or four acres and upwards. They are destitute of anything like a covering of soil, and produce only dwarf pine-trees and creeping shrubs. C'n reflecting that the bed of the River is almost dry between the Kamouraska Islands and the shore at low water, and contrasting the position, appearance, and striking resemblance of these isolated mounds on terra firma with the adjoining islands, the geologist is naturally led to the conclusion, that this level tract was at some period submerged beneath the more widely spreading waves of " the mighty St. Law- rence," and that the elevations in question formed islands exposed to the action of its waters. Between Kamouras- ka and Pviver du Loup, a distance of a dozen miles, lie the Pilgrims, a group of five islands. At low water carts can pass from the mainland to this group and the Kamou- raska one. lliviure Du Loup contains about a thousand inhabitants, there being a larger proportion of English and Scotch than is usually found in the smaller towns of Canada East. There is an Episcopal Church here, per- haps the only one eastward of (Quebec. About a mile in the rear is a picturesque waterfall of about eighty or one hundred feet. To this place and Cacona, which lies about ten miles below, many fami'ies resort for the benefit of sea-bathing. Cacona is a rocky peninsula, three hundred and fifty feet high, being coniiCcted with the mainland by a marshy isthmus. At ilivi6i<3 du Loup commences the Grand Portage Road, which leads to Lake Temiscouata, a distance of thirty-six miles. Hence is the route^ via v 70 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. i. I i ' ■I, liM m the Rivers Madawaska and St. John, to St. John in NeW Brunswick, and Halifax. The situation of Du Loup is more romantic, but Cacona has the advantage of purer and stronger water. Both command an extensive pros- pect of the St. Lawrence, which is here upwards of twenty miles wide, studded with islands, and bounded on the opposite shore by lofty and ru^-ged mountains. The sojourner is enlivened by thr si^^Iit of numerous large vessels constantly navigating the broad expanse. Green Island lies off Cacona, and has a light-house sixty feet above the sea. The light is fixed, and can be seen at the distance of from twelve to seventeen miles, according to the height of the observer's eye from ten to sixty feet. The light is shown from sunset to sunrise between the ir)th of April and the 10th of December. From this light -house to the lioht-vessel at the Traverse is fifty-four miles ; and for the first thirty miles above, the lliver is divided into the North and South Channels by numerous islets with banks and reefs attached to them. Among these we may mention Hare Island, which is seven miles long in the direction of the River, and the three Brandy Pots, off which vessels bound down, and waiting for a wind or the tide, usually rendezvous. These islands are upwards of one hundred miles from Quebec. It is worthy of notice that the islands, reefs, and ridges along the Southern Shore from Quebec downwards, are of gray- wack6 and slate. These southern ridges only rise a few liundred feet, while the granitic mountains of the North Shore in some parts exceed an elevation of two thousand feet above the River. — Before transporting our Tourist QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 71 John in New " Du Loup is iage of purer [tensive pros- e upwards of i bounded on ntains. The merous large mse. Green ise sixty feet n be seen at es, according to sixty feet, between the From this J is fifty-four the lliver is by numerous m. Amona: seven miles ree Brandy aiting for a islands are It is worthy along the •e of gray- rise a few the North ^0 thousand 3ur Tourist to the Saguenay, we notice briefly the North Shore from that river to Cape Tourment. In most parts granitic hills rise immediately from the lliver, forming steep or precipitous headlands. Near the western entrance of the ^aguenay these hills do not exceed one thousand feet in height, but those of Eboulemens attain an elevation of two thousand five hundred and forty-seven feet above the tide-waters of the River. The cliiTs at either entrance of the Saguenay are of clay. Capes Basque, Dogs, Sal- mon, and Eagle are descried in succession, and present the same bold and precipitous features. A little eastward from the last the Settlements begin, and continue along the shore to Quebec. A few miles beyond is Murray Bay, at the head of which is a village with a church de- lightfully situated at the mouth of a river, on which are grist and saw-mills. Few places in Canada can be justly compared with this in beauty of scenery. Here lumber is shipped to a considerable amount. Malbay and Eboule- mens Bays) lie south-west. S'ight shocks of earthquakes are occasionally felt here, and in their neighbourhood. It is remarked that for six miles below, and from off Murray Bay to Cape Diable on the South Shore, a distance of ten and a half miles, the River is clear from detached shoals, and has deep \vater from side to side. The want of good anchorage renders this part of the North Chan- nel from Saguenay to Murray Bay unfit for general use. In the other channel a vessel can anchor almost anywhere above Cacona. — The St. Lawrence at its junction with the Saguenay is two and a half miles broad between Point Vaches and Aloucttes Point at either entrance. It is a 1 ? 72 Qn«BEC GUIDE BOOK. remarkable circumstance thnt tue depth of the former at this place is two hundred and fifty feet, while that of the latter is nearly a thousand ; so that, should the bed of the St. Lawrence become dry, there would remain a depth of upwards of seven h'iiadred feet in the Saguenay. A little above Point Vaches at the east entrance is situated Tadousac, on a semi-circular terrace at the top of a beautiful bay with a sandy beach, hemmed in by moun- tans of solid rock, and thus presenting a scf ure retreat from almost every wind, though the entrance to vessels from the St. I^awyence is somewhat intricatt . Tadousac is in- teresting fr( ijj the circumstance of its having been at an early period the capil >1 of the French Settlements, and on that account always caiLul at by the first explorers of the Great River. It is i* e principal trading-port of the Hudson's; Bay Co>rip:my below Quebec, who nominally occupy the whole tract of country lying between the Baguenay and the North Shore of the St. Lawrence. This company, in addition to other large tracts of coun- try, n(nv represents a body called the King's Posts' Com- pany, thi '" early obtained a lease of the territory from the French Government, under the title of " The Domaine," with the exclusive right of trading, hunting, and fishing. Here is the ruin of a religious establishment of the Jesuits, which is considered to have been the first building of stone and mortar on the Continent of North America. There is standing in excellent repair a chapel which is understood to have been built by Jesuit Missionaries among the In- dians. About a mile and a half hence are pointed out some flat lands, which are said to have been the gardens of the the former at lie that of the the hed of the emain a depth Saguenay. A ince is situated the top of 1 [J in by moun- SG' ure retreat to vessels from Tadousac is in- ng been at an ttlernents, and >t explorers of ig-port of the i^ho nominajiy between the 5t. Lawrence, acts of coun- I Posts' Com- tory from the le Domaine," , and fishing, f the Jesuits, ding of stone ica. There is understood long the In- ted out some rdens of the QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 73 Jesuits. The few houses composing the village are chiefly occupied by Indians in the employ of the Company. About half a mile to the north is the extensive lumbering eshiblisiiment of William Price, Esq., of Quebec. This spot is the principal port on the Saguenay. It may be noliced b ire that this gentleman has established and car- ries on all the saw-mills on the Saguenay and Lower St. Lawrence r He gives employment to upwards of two thousand men, and sends annually to Britain about one 1 ''udred ship-loads of timber in the shape of deals. From Pointe aux Alouettes (Lark Point) at the western en- trance to Grand Bay, a distance of sixty miles, the scenery on either bank is acknowledged to be unrivalled for magni- ficent grandeur and wildness, whilst the river, varying in width seldom more than from one to two miles, presents an unruffled surface over a depth not less in many parts than a thousand feet. The shores present a steep rocky front, composed chiefly of granite, and thinly clad wifli pines, birches, and other trees of northern climes. At a few intervals are seen small clearances at the head of coves, where saw-mills have been erected. Into these coves are discharged the waters of rapid tributaries, flow- ing through vallies generally capable of cultivation, although thickly wooded. The dark naked bluffs, which every bend brings in view, are generally about eight hun- dred feet in height, while some shoot up beyond fif- teen hundred. Of this description are Cape Eternity, Point Trinity, the Tableau, and La T6te du Boule. Within a few feet of these precipitous shores the depth is usually as great as towards the middle of the channel. n QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. Ever-and-anon the eye is attracted by the flight of an eagle sweeping along the summits of these beetling cliffs, or by salmon leaping into the air for their insect food, whilst numerous seals are seen popping their dark heads out of the waters, and white porpoises in droves tumbling their huge bodies. Nearly fifty miles up, the Sagueuay turns suddenly to the northward between Cape East and Cape West, a beautiful expanse receding from the west bank to the distance of nearly ten miles. At its extre- mity is situated a village, at the mouth of a small river, upon which is a large saw-mill, giving employment to a number of men. The progress of this settlement was con- siderably retarded by a destructive fire in 1846. There is a Roman Catholic Church in the village ; and some fine farms are springing up at different points on the Bay. It is said that the Bay was originally called " Ah ! Ah !'' or " Ha ! Ha !" descriptive of the surprise which was ex- perienced by the first French explorers, when they ascer- tained that this expanse, instead of conducting up the noble river, had no other outlet except the one by which they had entered it. Hence to the trading-port of Chi- coutimi, which by land is about ten miles distant, but up- wards of twenty by water, the river is comparatively shallow, and tastes fresh when the tide is out. Chicou- timi is an important trading-port, containing two settle- ments about two miles apart, and has a population of up- wards of four hundred, chiefly French Canadians em- ployed in lumbering. It has been observed that grain ripens earlier in this locality than around Quebec. In the vicinity there stands on an eminence a small rude QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. 75 the flight of an 3e beetling clifTs, heir insect food, :heir dark heads droves tumbling 5, the Sagueuaj Cape East and from the west At its extre- ' a small river, iployment to a ement was con- 1846. There ?e ; and some ts on the Bay. I " Ah ! Ah :•' which was ex- en they ascer- Jcting up the one by which f-port of Chi- stant, but up- omparatively ut. Chicou- two settle- lation of up- nadians em- i that grain Juebec. In small rude Catholic Church almost entire, but stripped of all its or- naments except a crucifix and a few candle-sticks. It is said to have been constructed by Jesuit missionaries up- wards of a century ago. Several of these were buried in the church, and the tombstones may still be seen. In the belfry is a bell, on which is an inscription that has hitherto baffled the learned of Canada to explain or trans- late. About fifty miles above Chicoutimi, the Saguenay issues from Lake St. John, which is about forty miles long, and receives eleven large rivers. The country surround- ing the Lake is well timbered, and rather level, and hold- ing out the prospect of being well adapted for agriculture, while the climate is said to be far preferable to that of the sea-coast of the St. Lawrence. The only outlet of the Lake besides the Saguenay is the Metabethshuan, the waters of which, after passing the expanse of Lake Kiguagomi, become the Chicoutimi, and unite with those of the Saguenay near the village of Chicoutimi. The portion of the Saguenay from this village to the Lake is unavailable on account of the numerous falls and rapids, and the Chicoutimi affords a very circuitous communica- tion by boats through the Lake Kigaugomi and the River Metabethshuan. The influence of the tide is felt as far up as the Rapid of Terre Rompue, six miles above Chi- coutimi. The ordinary spring-tides rise seventeen feet at Tadousac, and twelve at Chicoutimi. To this point schooners and steamers can ascend with the assistance of flood-tide, and the largest ships to Point Roches, fifty- seven miles uf At the mouth of the Metabethshuan on on the vinih shore of Lake St. John is situated one of . ^- m 16 QUEBEC GUIDE BOOK. the King's Posts^ leased by the Hudson's Bay Company* It was established by the Jesuit missionaries in the six^ teenth century, and traces of their cultivation still remain. On both shores of the Saguenay at frequent intervals oc" cur good anchorage for vessels. Chicoutimi, the name ^hich the Indians originally gave to this deep tributary of the Great River, is said to denote Deep Water , while the name imposed on it by Jesuit missionaries in Saguenay (Sacnez), the interpretation of which is Nose of the Sack* Tadousac is a transposed corruption of Saguenay. . : J ■V ■! ■ i I i THE END« ^n .',; i^i*- t , .^.'■'- fwde ' y.,.. Bay Company* 'ies in the six- on still remain, at intervals oc- timi, the name deep tributary • Water y while ss in Saguenay ^ of the Sack. ^uenay. '■'*■-■., rude on the