KM A^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) II I.I 11.25 U 1 1.6 i^l _Scimces Corporation k ■« // / ■ 4 t^op.vl(U*>>-0^tl fv\U0vvw..O. CONTENTS. CIRCUMNAVIGATORS. • * PAGE. Sir Francifl Drake, 9 Thomas Cavendish, 72 William Dampier, 105 James Cook, 196 VOYAGERS AND DISCOVERERS. [ASIA.] Sir John Chardin, " 353 Pietro Delia Valle, 281 Carsttiti Niebuhr, . 395 John Bell, 344 [AFRICA.] Mungo Park, 37I Dixon Donham, - 411 Hugh Clapperton, • - - .'. . iff . . 412 Richard and John Lander, • . - • . •Trll^ 1*„*&* 463 ?l. CONTENTS. [NORTH AMERICA.] Samuel Hearae, 568 Sir Alexander Mackenzie, 580 William Edward Parry, 594 Sir John Ross, 621 Sir John Franklin, 628 The Great Arctic Problem Solved, 659. ^ ' %■ ■/ % ^10«W'-. ^-4 I V*' (S^i^t^:. PREFACE The object of the present work is to acquaint the Reader with the eventful hves and arduous labors of those Adventu- rers, who, regardless of toil and peril, have penetrated into un- known countries, traversing ocean, and sea, and continent, to explore the condition of the earth and its inhabitants. The names of Cook, Park, Parry, Denham, Clapperton, Ross, Franklin, the Landers, and others, are inseparably connected with dangers, vicissitudes, new scenes, and striking incidents. And if an exhibition of boldness and fortitude in braving dan- gers and vanquishing obstacles can cnhst the attention, the work cannot fail to interest. Whoever accompanies the Adventurer in his journies and voyages, as dehneated in the following pages, will be greeted by a constant succession of remarkable exploits, and new and striking objects. He will see him encountering the mi dreadful cxtrcmeties of cold amid the dreary but stupendlifNif and sublime scenery of the arctic regions ; the scorching heat and pestilential vapors of tropical climates ; the fury of oceans and tempests, and the merciless barbarity of savages. In a word, he will be found braving almost every species of danger by which the patience and courage of man can be tried. By thus accompanying him through his distant enterprises, often far more useful than any undertaken by king or conqueror, we acquire an aflection for his person, and regard his toils and perils as something which nearly concern our««lye8. |^ / -^^^'/^i Till. PREFACE. From the nature of the subject, the present work will con- vey much important and useful information. Adventurers in the same country are tlussed together and arranged in the or- der of time. Thus, those who gave the first impulse to the spirit of discovery, by circumnavigating the globe and explor- ing the great Southern Ocean, occupy the first part of the book ; then follow several romantic and adventurous travel- lers in different parts of Asia; and finally Park, Denham, Clapperton, the Landers, afford us a succinct history of the progress of discovery in Africa ; and Hearne, Mackenzie, Parry, Ross, and Franklin, in the regions of the Northern Polar Sea. It has been justly remarked by Dr. Southey, that of books of travels we cannot have too many, and that because they contribute to the instruction of the learned, their reputation suffers no diminution by the course of time, but age rather enhances their value; and, adds another distinguished v riter, every man whose comprehensive mind enables him to sympa- thize with human nature under all its various aspects, and to detect, through the endless disguises superinduced by strange religions, policies, manners, or chmate, passions, weaknesses, and virtues akin to his own, must peruse the relations of ve- racious travellers with peculiar satisfaction and delight. In the spirit of sentiments like these the Publisher of this work commends it to public consideration and patronage. 3 » '^i^ (k. '-^ tf H». 'w^ m., H ^■f "^ * •' % SIR FRANCIS DRAKE, THE FIRST ENGLISH CIRCITMNAVIGATOR. Sir Francis Drake, son of Mr. Edmund Drake, of Tavistock in Devonshire, was bora in 1545. Being early destined for the sea, he received that kind of edu- cation which was best adapted to the object of his pur- suits. Sir John Hawkins, his kiosmaii, a' celebrated navigator, is said to have early takejl him \inder his pro- tection. At the age of eighteen he'was purser of a ship trading to Biscay. At twenty ne made a yoyage to Guinea, and at twent^-tw^^ he was pri$g(ibtea,*0 th^ command of the Judith. ^ III i%7b. ai]i|| ;4£t7-d;|ie-w '»' Xf -.^ ''■■^' ■ V '. •■ % ■ ■■*>.* 10 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ^ r I! engaged in expeditions against the Spaniards in the West Indies. While prosecuting these enterprises he was assisted by an Indian nation, equally hostile with himself to the Spanish name. The prince of this na- tion was named Pedro, to whom Drake made a fine present of a cutlass from his side, which he perceived the Indian greatly admired. Pedro, in return, gave him four large wedges of gold, which Drake threw into the common stock, with this emphatic observa- tion, "that he thought it just that such as bore the charge of such uncertain undertakings on his credit, should share the utmost advantages they produced." Then embarking his men, with all the wealth he had obtained, he bore away for England, where he arrived in 1573. This succes3 in this expedition, joined to his honor- able conduct towards the owners and towards his men, gained him a high reputation, and the application of his newly acquirecl riches, still greater. For, fitting out three stout frigates at his own expense, he sailed to Ireland, and serving as a volunteer, under Walter, Earl of Essex, performed some prodigies of valour. After the death of this noble patron, he returned to England, where Sir Christopher Hatton, a mighty favourite witli the queen, introduced him to her majesty, and procured him countenance and protection at court. Thus bask- ing in the beams of royal favour, his views expanded to nobler aims than he had yet attempted ; and he project- ed that expedition to the Great South Sea, which will render his name immortal. This expedition we an; about to relate. When a man once gives up the reins of imagination to views of interest or ambition, nothing will appear dif- ficult which gives" him a chance of giatifying his fa- vorite passion. Such was the case with Drakei Hav- ing once had a prospect of the Great South Sea, he was determined that no human obstacle should deter him from endeavouring to revisit America, and from spread- ing his sails on that ocean. But indefatigable as he was in the pursuit of this design, it was not until the year 1677, that he had collected a force sufficient to 'a ; %• .i SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 11 man five vessels, and by a pretended royal authority, appeared as admiral, or as the phrase then was, gene- ral of the squadron. The fleet, equipped for this new expedition, consist- ed of the Pelican, the flag ship ; the Elizabeth, John Winter, vice admiral ; the Marygold, commanded by captain Thomas ; the Swan, captain John Chester ; and the Christopher, of fifteen tons, which was commit- ted to the charge of one of his carpenters. These ships were fitted out, partly at his own risk, and partly at the expense of others ; and were manned with one hundred and sixty-four chosen seamen. They were well stored with all necessary provisions ; and at the same time, were furnished with whatever could contribute to ornament or delight ; carrying expert mu- sicians, rich furniture, and choice productions of the country. Not only the admiral's table, but the cook- i-oom was provided with silver utensils ; partly to com- mand a higher degree of respect, and perhaps, partly to gratify personal vanity. This cautious commander, reflecting on the difficul- ties to which his men had been exposed in former expe- ditions, which might have deterred the less resolute ; or, more probably, to conceal his real designs from the enemy, had engaged his crews for a voyage to Alexan- dria; nor was the real destination known till they reached the coast of Brazil. Every thing being ready, Drake sailed from Plymouth on the 15th of November 1577, but soon after was forced by stress of weather into Falmouth, where he was detained till the 13th of December, when he took his final departure, with all the auspices of a favourable voyage. On the 27th of the month, the squadron anchored off'Mogadore, an island about a mile from the continent of Barbary. Here having got ready the frames of his pinnaces, which he had carried out witli him, he began to put them together. The Jifqors ob- serving these proceedings, sent two of their chiefs on board of the aamiral's ship, receiving two Englishmen as hostages. These Moors were handsomely entertain- ed by Drake, that they might form a favourable opmion SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. V'. of the English nation. Next day, however, this friend- ly intercourse was at an end. One John Fry leaping on shore from the ship's boat, was immediately mounted on horseback, and conveyed up the country. Though this man, after being closely interrogated, was dismissed with apologies and assurances, that the natives had mistaken this squadron for the Portuguese, from whom thej' expected an invasion, the admiral resolved not to protract his stay in that place. Accordingly he depart- ed on the last of December, and on the 17th of January, 1678, reached Cape Blanco, having on the cruise cap- tured three caunters, as the Spanish fishing-boats were called, and two, or else three, caravels, — the accounts on this, as on several other minor points, being often contradictory. A ship which was surprised in the har- bour with only two men on board shared the same tate. At Cape Blanco they halted for five days, fishing ; while on shore, Drake exercised his company in arms, thus studying both their health and the maintenance of good discipline. From the stores of the fishermen they help- ed themselves to such commodities as they wanted, and sailed on the 22d, carrying off also a caunter of forty tons burthen, for which the owner received,, as a shght indemnification, the pinnace Christopher. At Cape Blanco fresh water was at this season so scarce, that in- stead of obtaining a supply, Drake, compassionating the condition of the natives, who came down from the heights, offering ambergris aiid gums in exchange for it, generally filled their leathern bags without accepting any recompense, and otherwise treated them humanely and hospitably. Four of the prizes were released here. After six days* sailing they came to anchor on the 28th at the west part of Mayo, — an island where, according to the information of me master of the caravel, dried goat's flesh might be had in plenty, the inhabitants pre- paring a store annually for the use of the king's ships. The people on the island, mostly herdsmen and hus- bandmen, belonging to the Portuguese of the island of St. Jago, woula have no intercourse with the ships, having probably been warned of danger^ Next day a party of six^ pen landed, commanded by Captain SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. It »g . and forty slight Cape lat in- the the it, jpting [anely 1 here. 28th rding Iried lips. ips, ktain Winter and Mr. Doughty, — a name with which, in the sequel, the reader will become but too familiar. They repaired to what was described as the capital of thte island, by which must be understood the principal col- lection of cabins or huts, but found it deserted. The inhabitants had fled, and had previously salted the springs. The countrj'' appeared fertile, especially in the valleys ; and in the depth of the winter of Great Britain, they feasted on ripe and delicious grapes. The island also produced cocoanuts, and they saw abun- dance of goats and wild hens ; though these good things, and the fresh springs, were unfortunately too far distant from the ships to be available. Salt produced by the heat of the sun formed here an article of. commerce ; and one of the prizes made was a caravel bound to St. Jago for salt. Leaving Mayo on the 30th, on the south-west side of St. Jago, they fell in with a prize of more value, — ^a Por- tuguese ship bound to Brazil, laden with wine, cloth, and general merchandise, and having a good many pas- sengL'rs on board. The command of this prize was given to Doughty, who was however soon afterward supersedeil by Mr. Thomas Drake, the brother of the general. This is the first time we hear of offences being charged against the unfortunatr ^^oughty. It is said he appropriated to his own use presents, probably given as bribes to obtain good usage, by the Portuguese prison- ers. These captives Drake generously dismissed at the first safe and convenient place, giving every passen- ger his wearing apparel, and presenting them with a butt of wine, provisions, and the pinnace he had set up at Mogadore. Only the pilot was detained, Nuno de Silva, who was acquainted with the coast of Brazil, and who afterward published a minute and accurate ac- count of Drake's voyage. Here, near the ishind named by the Portuguese Isla del Fogo, or the Burning Island, where, says the Famous Voyage, "on the north side is a consuming fire, the mat er whereof is said to be sulphur," lies Brava, de- scribed in the early narratives as a terrestrial paradise ; " a most sweet and pleasant island, tl^ trees whereof •»! ^ 14 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. Ull are always green, and fair to look upon ; in respect of which they call it Isla Brava, that is, The Brave Island." The " soil was almost full of trees ; so that it was a storehouse of many fruit? nnd commodities, as figs al- ways ripe, cocoas, plantains, oranges, lemons, citrons, ana cotton. From the brooks into the sea do run in many places silver streams of sweet and wholesome water," with which ships may easily be supplied. There was, however, no convenient harbour nor anchor- ing found at this " sweet and pleasant" island, — the volcanic tops of Del Fogo " not burning higher in the air" than the foundations of Brava dipped sheer into the sea. The squadron now approached the equinoctial line, sometimes becalmed, and at other times beaten about with tempests and heavy seas. In their progress they were indebted to the copious rains for a seasonable sup- ply of water. They also caught dolphins, bonitos, and nying-fish, which fell on the decks, and could not rise again " for lack of moisture on their wings." They had left the shore of Brava on the 2d February. On the 28th March their valuable Portuguese prize, which was their wine-cellar and store, was separated in a tempest, but afterward rejoined at a place which, in commemo- ration of the event, was called Cape Joy. The coast of Brazil was now seen in 31^° south. On the 5th April, the natives, having discovered the ships on the coast, macb great fires, went through various incantations, and offered sacrifices, as was imagined, to the Devil, that the prince of the powers of the air might raise storma to sink the strangers. To these diabolical arts the mariners doubtless attributed the violent lightning, thunder, and rain, which they encountered in this lati- tude. About Cape Joy the air was mild and salubrious, the soil rich and fertile. Troops of wild deer, " large and mighty," were the only living creatures seen on this part of the coast, though the footprints of men of large sta- ture were traced on the ground. Some seals were kilted here, fresh provisions of any kind never being neglected. On the 14th of April, Drake anchored • ■ % SIR FRAXCIS DRAKE. within the entrance of Rio de la Plata, where he had appointed a rendezvous in case of a separation after leaving the Cape de Verd Islands ; and here the caunter, which had separated in a gale on the 7th, rejoined, when the expedition sailed eighteen leagues farther into the river, where they killed sea-wolves (seals,) — " wholesome but not pleasant food." Still farther in, they rode in fresh water ; but finding no good harbour, and having taken in water, the fleet, on the 27th, stood out, and afterward southward. The Swan Ic it them on the first night, and the caunter, ever apt to go astray, was separated ten days afterward. In 47* south a headland was seen, within which was a bay that pro- mised safe harbourage ; and having, on the 12th May, entered and anchored, Dralve, who seldom devolved the duty of an examination on an inferior officer, went off in the boat next morning to explore the bay. Be- fore he made land, a thick fog came on, and was follow- ed by bad weather, which took from him the sight of the fleet. The company became alarmed for their pro- tector and general, in whom all their hopes of fortune, fame, and even of preservation, were placed. The Marigold, a bark of light weight, stood in for the bay, picked up the captain-general, and came to anchor, in the meanwhile the other ships, as the gale increased, had been compelled to stand out to sea. The fog which had fallen between Drake and the fleet also took from his sight an Indian, who, loudly shaking a rattle, danced in time to the discordant music he made, and by his gestures seemed to invite the strangers on shore. Next day Drake landed, and several Indians came in sicht, to whom a white flag was waved in token of amity, and as a signal to approach. The natives acknowledg- ed the symbol of peace, but still kept at a wary dis- tance. Drake now ordered fires to be lighted as signals to the ships ; and they all rejoined, save the two vessels formerly separated. In a sort of storehouse here, above fifty dried ostriches were found, besides other birds laid up, dry or drying for provision, by the Indians. It was oelieved by some »i 16 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. I f i of the English that these had been left as a present ; and Drake, whether believing or not in so rare an instance of hospitality, appropriated the dried birds to the use of liis company. It is a charitable conjecture that some of his own wares were left in return. The manner in which these ostriches, whose flesh supplied food, while their feathers furnished ornaments, were snared, de- serves notice. Plumes of feathers were affixed to a stick, made to resemble the head and neck of the bird. Behind these decoys the hunter concealed himself, and, moving onwards, drove the ostriches into some narrow tongue of land, across which strong nets were placed to intercept the return of the bird, which runs, but cannot fly. Dogs were then set upon the prey, which was thus taken. The choice of the place in which the fleet now lay liad been dictated by necessity alone. On the 15th it was abandoned, and on the 17th they anchored in a good port, in 47^*^ south. Here seals were so plentiful tliat upwards of two hundred were killed in an hour. While the crews were liliins; the water-butts, killins: seals, and salting birds lor I'uture provision, Drake in the Pelicnn, unci Captain Winter in the Elizabeth, set out on difiereiit courses in quest of the Swan and the Portuguese prize. On the same day Drake fell in with the Swan, and, before attempting the straits, formed the prudent resolution of diminishing the cares and hazards of th;3 voyage by reducing the number of his ships. The Swan was uccordingh'' broken up for firewood, after all her materials and stores had been removed. When the ships had lain here a few days, a party of the natives came to the shore, dancing, leaping, and making signs of invitation to a few of the seamen then on a small island, which at low water communicated with the main land. They were a handsome, strong, agile race, lively and alert. Their only covering was the skin of an animal, which, worn about their middle when walking, was wrapped round their shoulders while they squatted or lay on the ground. They were paint- ed over the whole body after a grotesque fashion. Though fancy and ingenuity were displayed in the \ : X SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. trong, was liddle while )aint- shion. figures and patterns, and in the contrast and variety of colours, it is reasonable to conclude that the practice had its origin in utility, and was adopted as a defence against cold, ornament being at first only a secondary consideration, though, as in more refined regions, it sometimes usurped the place of the principal object. These Indians being first painted all over, on this groundwork many freaks of fancy were displayed : white full moons were exhibited to advantage on a black ground, and black suns on a white one. Some had one shoulder black and the other white ; but these were probably persons who carried the mode to the extreme. On seemg that the signals made were interpreted in a friendly waj'', Drake sent a boat to the shore with bells, cutlery, and such small wares as were likely to be at- tractive and acceptable to the tastes of the natives. As the boat neared tne shore, two of the group, who had been standing on a height, moved swiftly down, but stopped short at a little distance. The presents were fastened to a pole, and left on the beach ; and after the boat put off they were removed, and in return such feathers as the natives wore, and the carved bones which they used as ornaments, were deposited near or fastened to the same pola. Thus a friendly, if not profitable or useful, traffic was established. For such trifles as the English bestowed they gave in return the only articles they possessed to which value was attached. These were bows, arrows made of reeds and pointed with flint, feathers, and carved bones. Their mode of exchange was to have every thing placed on the ground, from whence the goods were removed, and the article bartered for substituted. By some of the voyagers these people are described as of gigantic stature. They were of a gay and cheerful disposition; the sound of the trumpets delighted them ; and they danced merrily with the sailors. One of their number, who had tasted wine, and became, it is stated, intoxicated with the mere smell before the glass reached his lips, always afterward approached the tents crying, "Wine, wine!" Their principal article of food was seals, and sometimes the flesh of other animals j all of which they roasted, or 18 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. r rather scorched for a few minutes, in large lumps of six pounds' weight, and then devoured nearly raw, — "men and women tearing it with their teeth like lions." The fleet sailed from Seal Bay, as this place was named, on the 3d of June, and on the 12th came to an- chor in a bay where they remained for two days, during which they stripped the caunter, and allowed it to drift. Drake had thus reduced his force to a more compact and manageable form. The place from which this ves- sel was sent adrift is sometimes called the Cape of Good Hope, but seems to have been named Cape Hope, From the 14th to the 17th of May, the fleet cruised about in search of the Mary, the Portuguese prize, and then came to anchor in a bay 50° 20' south. On the 19th the missing vessel was found, and next day the whole squadron anchored in the Port St. Julian of Ma- gellan in 40° 30' south ; where, says one relation, " we found the gibbet still standing on the main where Ma- gellan did execute justice upon some of his rebellious and discontented company." So soon as the ships were safely moored, Drake and some of his officers went off* in a boat to examine the capabilities of this part of tlie coast, and on landing met two men of immense stature, who appeared to give them welcome. These were of the Patagonian trribes of Magellan. A few trifles presented to them were accepted with pleasure, and they were apparently deUghted by the dexterity with which the gunner used the English bow in a trial of skill, sending his arrow so far beyond their best aim. Nothing, however, can be more fickle and capricious than the friendship of most savage tribes. An Indian of less amiable disposition than his companions ap- proached, and with menacing gestures signified to the crew to be gone. Mr. Winter, an English gentleman, displeased with the interruption given to their pastime by this churlish fellow, between jest and earnest drew a shaft, partly in intimidation, but also to prove the su- periority of the English bow and skill. The bowstring unfortunately snapped ; and while he was repairing it a sudden showei* of arrows wounded him in the shoulder and the side. . Oliver, the gunner, instantly levelled his .^t,. ^^ VM i *. SIR FRANCIS DRAKB. 19 test aini. piece ; but it missed fire, and the attempt proved the disnal for his destruction. He was pierced through with an arrow, and immediately dropped. At this critical moment Drake ordered the rest of the party to cover themselves with their targets and advance upon the Indians, who were fast mustering. With ready presence of mind, he directed his men, at the same time, to break every arrow aimed at them, as the assailants must thus soon expend their stock. The captain-gene- ral might at this juncture have remembered that in the affray where Magellan lost his life the same arrows were picked up by the people of Matan, and repeatedly shot, as they drove the Spaniards into the water. At the sfune instant in which he gave the order, Di ike seized the gunner's piece, and taking aim at the man who had killed Oliver and begun the affray, he shot him in the belly. This turned the fate of the hour, and probably prevented the massacre of the whole party of English ; tor many more of the Patagonians were seen hastening trom the woods to support their countrymen, when the hideous bellowing of the wounded man struck witli panic those already engaged, and the whole fled. It was not thought prudent to pursue them, nor even to tfirry on shore ; Mr. Winter was therefore borne off to the ships ; but in the haste of embarkation the body of the gunner was left. Next da.y, when looked after, the body was found uninjured, save that an English arrow had been thrust into the left eye. The clothes were in part stripped off, and formed into a pillow or truss, which was placed under the head of the corpse. Win- ter soon afterward died of his wounds. , This unfortunate affray appears to have been more the consequence of misunderstanding than design ; and the usage of the dead body and subsequent conduct of llie natives evince a less revengeful and ferocious dist position than is usually displayed even among the mildest savage tribes when inflamed by recent battle. During the remainder of the time that the fleet lay here no further molestation was offered to the English. The stature of these tribes, and of thgse in the straits, has been the subject of dispute among navigators from / ft • -fc 20 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. the voyage of Magellan to our own times, each succeed- ing band being unwilling to yield an inch to their pre- cursors, or to meet with "giants less formidable tnan those which had been previously seen. Cliffe, however, says, " they were of ordinary height, and that he had seen Englishmen taller than any of them ;" and then, like a true seaman of the period, he imputes their ex- aggerated stature to the "lies" of the Spaniards, from whom no good thing could come ; and who, in the ima- ginary impunity of escaping detection from the naviga- tors of other nations, related these marvellous tales. " The World Encompassed" makes the height of these people seven feet and a half. It is not unlikely that the mists, haze, and storms through which the natives were often partially seen in the straits, or on those wild coasts, perched on a rock or grovelling on the ground, may be the origin of the pigmies and giants of the early navigators ; but that tribes of tall though not gigantic stature were seen in the South Sea islands, and also on the western coasts of the continent of America, from its southern extremity as far north as was then explored, does not admit of doubt.* While the fleet lay at Port St. Julian an event occur- red, which, as the contradictory evidence is viewed, must either be termed the most heroic or the most ques- tionable act in the life of Admiral Drake. Mr. Thomas Doughty, a man of talent, and too probably of ill-regu- 4:1: * The Patagonian race is still among the least known of all the South American trilMS. There is no doubt, however, of its existence, nor of the fact that it is characterized by proportions exceeding the ordinary dime'^dions of mankind. The Patagonian people are of limited numbers, and inhabit the eastern shores of the most southern point of the New World, under a cold and steril clime. They wander about from one district to another, and are but imperfectly civilized. Their dispositions, however, are peaceable, al^ough their great bodily strength would seem to fit them for warlike en> terprise ; but it sometimes happens that gigantic forms are not accompanied by a corresponding increase of physical energy. The average height of these people is about six feet, which height is also extremely frequent among the chiefs and nobles of the South Sea islands. The complexion of the Patagonisms is tawny; their hair, of which the colour is black or b 'own, is lank, and for the most part very long. It appears that this tribe have suc- ceeded in the training of horses, — an unusual accomplishment in a tribe otherwise so uncivilized ; but this, of course, must have been a comparative* ly modem exercise of their ingenuity, as horses were nnknown in America prior to the period of the Spanish conquest * SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. u succeed- heir pre- ble man lowever, t he had nd then, their ex- ds, from the ima- naviga- us tales, of these ' that the ves were )se wild ground, he early gigantic I also on from its xplored, t occur- yiewed, ques- 'homas U-regu- the South Inor of the ''jions id inhabit L under a Ither, and peaceable, larlike en* impanied I height of It among of the •own, is iave suo a tribe aarative- ■America lated ambition, had served as an officer in the fleet, and it is said enjoyed in a high degree the affection and con- fidence of the captain-general, who must voluntarily have selected him as one of his company. Doughty was at this place accused of conspiracy and mutiny $ of a plan to massacre Drake and the principal officers, and thus defeat the whole expedition ; as if the firsts imagined crime did not constitute sufficient guilt. The details of this singular affair are scanty, obscure, and perplexed ; and no contemporary writer notices any specific fact or ground of charge. The offence of Doughty is purely constructive. Cliffe dismisses the subject in one seaman-like sentence, merely saying, " Mr. Thomas Doughty was brought to his answer, — accused, convicted, and beheaded." The account in " The World Encompassed" is more elaborate, but not much more satisfactory. It contains strong general charges, but no record of facts, nor a shadow of proof of the general allegations. These early chroniclers ap- pear either thoroughly convinced of the guilt of the cul- prit, or indifferent to the propriety of convincing others of the justice and necessity of their captain's sentence, or they were fully convinced that the accused merited his fate. Doughty had previously been called in ques- tion for his conduct in accepting gifts or bribes while in the Portuguese prize, and he had afterwai'd strayed once or twice with the same vessel, which was burnt to prevent like accidents. According to one account liis treason was of old date ; and before the fleet Icit Ply* mouth he had been hatching plots against his com- mander, who refused to beheve " that one he so dearly loved would conceive evil against him, till perceiving that lenity and favour did little good, he thought it high time to call those practices in question, and, therefore, setting good watch over him, and assembling all his cap- tains and gentlemen of his company together, he pro- pounded to them the good parts that were in this gen- tleman, and the great good will and inward affection, more than brotherly, which he had, ever since his first acquaintance, borne him, and afterward delivered the letters which were written to him (Drake,) with the par* 3 # M SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ticulais from time to time, which had been observed not so much by himself as by his good friends ; not only at sea, but even at Plymouth ; not bare words, but wri- tings; not writings, but actions, tending to the over- throw of the service in hand, and making away his per- son. Proofs were rcciuired, and alleged so many and so evident, that the gentleman himself, stricken with remorse, acknowledged himself to have deserved death, yea, many deaths ; tor that he conspired, not only the overthrow of the action, but of the principal actor also." The account continues in the same strain, asserting that forty of the principal men of Drake's band adjudged the culprit to deserve death, and gave this judgment under their hand and scc'il, leaving the manner to the general, who allowed the unfortunate man the choice of being either abandoned on the coast, taken back to England to answer to the lords of the queen's council, or execu- ted here. He chose the latter, requesting, it is said, that he might "once more receive the holy communion with the captain-general before his death, and that ho might not die other than the death of a gentleman." The circumstances of the execution are striking. Mr. Fletcher celebrated the communion on the next day. Drake received the sacrament with the condemned man, and afterward they dined together "at the same table, as cheerfully in sobriety as ever in their lives they had done ; and taking their leaves, by drinking to each other, as if some short journey only had been in hand." Without further delay, all things being in readiness, Doughty walked forth, requested the bystanders to pray for him, and submitted his neck to the executioner. Camden's version of this transaction does not differ materially from the above. The chaplain of the fleet, Mr. Francis Fletcher, left a manuscript journal of the voyage, now deposited in the British Museum, which contradicts many of the important statements in the other relations. He asserts that the criminal utterly denied the truth of the charges against him, upon his salvation, at the time of communicating, and at the hour and moment of his death. Mr. Fletcher likewise affirms that no choice of life or death was given him upon any \ ^. %. .V, i \ SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 23 i I conditions. It is evident, that in the opinion of the cliaj tain, Doughty was an innocent and u murdered man ; the victim of a conspiracy not rigidly sifted by tlie general, and in which the actors too probably con- sulted his secret wishes. The fleet had not long left England when the affair of the Portuguese prisoners, in which there might be dishonour, but no crime deserving severity of punish- ment, and still less death, was brought against him. But in Port St. Julian, Fletcher remarks, "more dan- gerous matter is laid to his charge, and by the same per- sons (John Brewer, Edward Bright, and others of their friends,) namely, for words spoken by him to them in the general's garden at Plymouth, which it had been their part and duty to have discovered them at the time, and not have concealed them for a time and place not so fitting." Besides the vague charges made of plots and mutinous conduct, and the anomalous offence of being "an emulator of the glory of his commander," another cause is assigned for the death of Doughty, which, if it were supported by reasonable proof, would fix a deeper stigma on the character of Drake than all his other questionable deeds put together. In England the age of dark iniquitous intrigue had succeeded the times of ferocity and open violence ; but the dependants and partisans of the leading men in the state were still as criminally subservient to the flagitious designs of their patrons as when their daggers had been freely drawn in their service. It was alleged that Captain Drake had carried this man to sea to rid the powerful Earl of Leicester of a dangerous prater, and in time and place convenient to revenge his quarrel. It is probable that the intimacy of Doughty with cap- tain Drake had commenced in Ireland, as both had served under Essex ; and it is affirmed that the real crime of the former was accusing Leicester of plotting the secret murder of his noble rival, of which few men in England befieved him wholly guiltless. On the other hand, Essex was the patron of Drake, who, it is reason- ably urged, was thus much more fikely to protect than punish a firiend brought into trouble for freedom of / /■ ^''C ■' 24 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. Speech on an occasion that would have moved stocks or stones. It may be further pleaded in behalf of Drake, that, with the exception of the chaplain, whose relation has however every mark of sincerity and good faith, no man nor officer in the fleet has left any record or sur- mise of objection to the justice of the execution, though the affair, after the return of the expedition, was keeidy canvassed in England.* In his whole course of life, Drake maintained the character of integrity and hu- manity ; nor did he lack generosity in fitting season. He at all times discovered a strong sense of religion, and of moral obligation, save in the case of the Span- iards and *' Portugals," for which, however, " sea-d vin- ity" afforded an especial exception. That he could have put an innocent man to death to conceal the crimes, or execute the vengeance of Leicester, is too monstrous for belief; and that, conscious of the deepest injustice, he should have gone through the solemn religious ob- servances which preceded the perpetration of his crime, presents a picture of odious hypocrisy and cold-blooded cruelty more worthy of a demon than a brave man. The case resolves itself into the simple necessity of maintaining discipline in the fleet, and sustaining that personal authority which, in a commander, is a duty even more important than self-preservation. Drake's notions of authority might have been somewhat over- strained ; nor is it unlikely that he unconsciously im- bibed sHght feelings of jealousy of " this emulator of his glory." Every one who mentions Doughty speaks of him as a man of great endowments. Mr. Fletcher is warm in his praise. "An industrious and stout man," says Camden, even when relating his crimes, and one, it appears, of sufficient consequence to be imagined the cause of disquiet to the still all-powerful Leicester. Immediately after the execution, Drake, who to his * In an old relation (written by himself) of the adventiirea of " Peter Carder, a shipwrecked seaman," belonging to Drake's fleet, we find that when, after hia long detention and miraculous escape from the savages and thr* " Portugals," he returned to England, on being examined before the queen, and relating hiH marvellous haps, she questioned him "of the maimer of lyiftster Dough^'s oxecuttouN" i,. ft. -*" SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 25 man. other qualities added the gift of a bold natural eloquence, addressed his whole company, " persuading us to uni- ty, obedience, love, and regard of our voyage ; and for the better confirmation thereof, wished every man the next Sundfiy following, to prepare himself to receive the communion as Christian brethren and friends ought to do ; which was done in very reverent sort, and so with good contentment every man went about his business." Doubt and darkness will, however, always hf:ngover this transaction, though probably only from the simple reason of no formal record being kept of the proceed- ings. Doughty was buried with Mr. Winter and the gunner on an island in the harbour, and the chaplain relates that he erected a stone, and on it cut the names of these unfortunate Englishmen, and the date of their burial. The ships, by the breaking up of the Portuguese prize, were now reduced to three; and being "trim- med" and supplied witli wood and water, and such other necessaries as could be ol)tained, they sailed from this '*port accursed" on the 17th of August. Cliffe re- lates, that while they lay here, the weather, though in July and Augusc, was as cold as at mid- winter in Eng- land. On the 20th they made Cape de las Virgines, entered tlie strait, and on the 24th anchored thirty leagi'os within it. Tnere is a considerable variation in the accounts of Drake's passage of the straits. The statementa are even absolutely contradictory on some points, though the disagreements, when the facts are sifted, ai " more apparent than real, every narrator ncting only what he had himself witnessed or casually gathered from the in- formation of others. The original narrative of the pas- sage l)y the Portuguese pih^t, Nuno dc Silva, is among the most interesting and accurate ; but in the picsent account an attempt is mac'o to combine whatever ap- pears most striking and important in the dittcrent rela- tions. The eastern mouth of tlie strait was found about a league broad ; the land bare and flat. On the north side Indians were seen making great fires ; but on the south no inhabitants appeared. TIiq length was com- 3» S6 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. puted at one hundred and ten leagues. The tide was seen to rise (setting in from both sides) about fifteen feet. It met about the middle, or rather nearer the western entrance. The medium breadth was one league. Where the ships came to anchor on the 24th were three small islands, on which they killed three <^housand "of birds (penguins) having no wings, but short pinions which serve their turn in swimming." They were as " fat as an English goose." " The land on both sides was very huge and moun- tainous ; the lower mountains whereof, although they be very monstrous to look upon for their height, yet there are others which in height exceed them in a strange manner, reaching themselves above their follow- ers so high that between them did appear three regions of clouds. These mountains are covered with snow at both the southerly and easterly parts of the strait. There are islands among which the sea hath his in- draught into the straits even as it hath at the main en- trance. The strait is extreme cold, with frost and snow continually. The trees seem to stoop with the burden of the weather, and yet are green continually, and many good and sweet herbs do very plentifully increase and grow under them." Such are the natural appearances described. Near the western entrance a number of narrow channels, with which the whole of that side abounds, occasioned some difficulty in the navigation ; and Drake, with his usual caution, brought the fleet to anchor near an island, while he went out in his boat to explore these various openings to the South Sea. In this expedition, Indians of the pigmy race, attributed to a region abounding in till monstrous things, were seen; though both the gigantic and diminutive size of these tribes are brought m question even by co. )mporury writers. Yet these pigmy Indians were seen close at hand, in a canoe in- geniously constructed of the bark of trees, of which ma- terial the people also formed vessels for domestic use. The canoes were semicircular, being high in the prow and stem. The seams were secured by a lacing of thongs of sealskin, dad fitted so nicely that there was v SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. i 27 tide was It fifteen iirer the .vas one the 24th ed three ngs, but nming." i moun- gh they ght, yet m in a • follow- regions snow at ! strait, his in- lain en- id snow I burden dmany ise and mg in h the ought these 06 in- ma- ; use. prow ig of was little leakage. The tools of these ingenious small folks were formed of the shell of a very large species of mus- cle, containing seed-pearls, which was found in the straits. These shells thev tempered, if the word may be used, so skilfully that they cut the hardest wood, and even bone. One of their dweUings, which might, how- ever, be but a tishing-hut, was seen rudely formed of sticks stuck in the ground, over which skins were stretched. Early in September the western entrance was reach- ed ; and, on the 6th of the same month, Drake attained the long-desired happiness of sailing an English ship on the South Sea. The passage of Drake was the quickest and easiest that had yet been made, fortune favouring him here as at every other point of this voyage. The temperature was also much milder than had been experienced by former navigators, or the English seamen might proba- bly be more hardy and enduring than those of Spain. One main object of Dr«ike in leaving England was undoubtedly the disco\^ry of ;i north-west passage, by following the bold and novel track his genius chalked out, and in which he might still hope to anticipate all other adventurers, whether their career commenced from the east or the west. On clearing the straits he accordingly held a north-west course, and in two days the fleet had advanced seventy leagues. Here it was overtaken by a violent and steady gale from the north- east, which drove them into 57° south latitude, and two hundred leagues to the west of Magellan's Straite. While still driving before the wind under bare poles, the moon was eclipsed at five o'clock in the afternoon of the 15th, but produced neither abatement nor change of the wind. "Neither did the ecUptical conflict of the moon improve our state, nor her clearing again mend us a whit, but the accustomed eclipse of the sea continued in his force, we being darkened more than the moon sevenfold." On the 24th the weather became more moderate, the wind shifted, and they partly retraced their course, for seven days standing to the north-east, during which land •^ 28 SIR FRAXCIS DRAKE. was seen, near which a vain attempt was made to an- chor. Their troubles did not end here, — once more the wind got back to its old quarter, and with great violence ; and on the 30th the Marigold was separated from the Elizabeth and the Golden Hind, as Drake on entering the South Sea had named his ship, in compliment it is said to his patron Sir Christopher Hatton. They made the land ; but the Marigold was borne to sea by the stress of the gale, and was never heard of more ! We do not even find a conjecture breathed about the fate of this ship. On the evening of the 7th of October, the Golden Hind and Elizabeth made a bay near the west- ern entrance of Magellan's Straits, which was afterward named the Bay of Parting Friends ; and here they in- tended to lie by till the weather improved. During the night the cable of the Hind broke, and she drove to sea ; nor did Captain Winter, in the Elizabeth, make any at- tempt to follow his commander. Heartily tired of a voyage of which he had just had so unpleasant a speci- men, he next day entered the ^aits, secretly purposing to return home. Edward Clifre, who sailed in the Eliz- abeth, and whose relation stops with her return to Eng- land, stoutly denies for the seamen the craven intention of abandoning their commander. Captain Drake ; and even asserts that some efforts were made to find the admiral's ship, though of a veiy passive kind. Anchor- ing in a bay within the straits, fires were kindled on the shore ; so that, if Drake sought them in this direction and on that day, there was a chance of his finding them. This duty discharged, they went into secure harbourage in a place which they named Port Health, from the rapid recovery of the crew, who had lately suffered so much from cold, wet, and fatigue. In the large muscles and other shellfish found here they obtained pleasant and restorative fooa ; and remained till the beginning of November, when the voyage was formally abandoned, "on Mr. Winter's compulsion, and full sore against the mariners' minds." Winter alleged that he now despair- ed of the captain-general's safety, or of being able to hold his course with the Elizabeth for the imagined Ophir of New Spain, SIR FBANCI8 DRAKB. 39 I entering nent it is ley made a by the re! We be fate of* 3ber, the ;he west- fterward they in- uring the e to sea ; 3 any at- red of a a speci- urposing he Eliz- to Eng- ntention le ; and find the inchor- on the irection them, lourage 5m the red so mscles easant ling of Joned, St the spair- ble to It was the 11th of November before the Elizabeth got clear of the straits, — ^an eastward voyage that had only been once performed, and by a Spanish navigator, La- drilleros, twenty years before, and believed to be next to impossible, — and June in the following year before Winter returned to England, with the credit of having made the passage of the straits eastward, and the shame of having deserted his commander, while his company, with nobler spirit, showed unshaken fidelity and unaba- ted ardour. There is more interest in following the fortunes of the Hind, which we left tossed about in the misnamed Pa- cific. Drake was once more carried back to 55° south, when he judged it expedient to run in among the islands or broken land of Terra del Fuego ; where, together with a supply of seals and fresh water, a season of re- pose was found from the continual fatigues of the last month. But this interval of ease was of short duration ; they were once more driven to sea in a gale, and suffer- ed the further calamity of being parted from the shallop, in which were eight seamen witn almost no provisions. While the Hind drove farther and farther south, the shallop was in the first instance so far fortunate as to regain the straits, wh3re the men salted and stored penguins for future supply. They soon lost all hope of rejoining the captain-general ; so, passing the straits* they contrived to make, in their frail bark, first for Port St. Julian, and afterward Rio de la Plata, where six of them, wandering into the woods in quest of food, were attacked by a party of Indians. AH were wounded with arrows ; but, while four were made prisoners, two escaped, and joined their two comrades left in charge of the boat. The Indians pursued, and the whole four were wounded before the natives were beaten back and the shallop got off. The Englishmen made for a small island at three leagues' distance, where two of their number died of their wounds : — nor was this the last calamity they were to endure ; the shallop was dashed to pieces in a storm. A melancholy interest is connected with this frag- ment of Drake's original company. On the desolate ^. 30 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE . island in which they remained for two months, no fresh water was to be found ; and though they obtained food from eels, small crabs, and a species of fruit resembling an orange, their sufferings from intense thirst came to an extremity too painful and revolting to be made the sub- ject of narrative. At the end of two months a plank ten feet long, which had drifted from Rio de la Plata, was picked up, smaller sticks were fastened to it, and a store of provision was laid in ; then committing themselves to God, paddling and clinging to this ark, they in three days and two nights made the mainland, which had so long tantalized their sight. In relating the issue of this adventure, the words of Peter Carder, the survivor, are adopted : — " At our first coming on land we found a little river of sweet and pleasant water, where William Pitcher, my only comfort and companion, although I dissuaded him to the contrary, overdrank himself, being perished before with extreme thirst; and, to my un- speakable grief and discomfort, died half an hour after in my presence, whom I buried as well as I could in the sand." The subsequent adventures of Peter Carder among the savages on the coast of Brazil, and his captivity among the Portuguese of Bahia de Todos los Santos, form an amusing and interesting section of Purchas* Pilgrims. After a nine years' absence he got back to England, and had the honour of relating his adventures before Queen Elizabeth, who presented him with twenty- two angels, and recommended him to her lord high ad- miral, Howard. To return to Drake. His ship, now driven southward farther than before, again ran in among the islands. This is an important stage in the navigation of Drake as a voyage of discovery. He had reached the southern extremity of the American continent, and been driven round it; for "here no land was seen, but the Atlantic and South Sea meeting in a large free scope." r On the 28th of October, the weather, which since the 6th of September, when they entered the Pacific, had been nearly one continued hurricane, became moderate, and the Golden Hind came to anchor in twenty fathoms SIR FBANCIS DRAKE. 31 IS, no fresh ained food esembling "ame to an le the sub- i plank ten Plata, was md a store hemselves y in three ich had so lue of this ■vivor, are md a little William dthough I self, being ) my un- tiour after [ could in T among captivity Santos, Purchas* back to ventures twenty- ligh ad- ic. water, though within a gunshot of the land, in a harbour of an island of which the southern point has long been known as Cape Horn. Sir Richard Hawkins, the son of Sir John, and the reputed kinsman of Admiral Drake, relates that he was informed by the navigator himself that " at the end of the great storm he found himself in 60° S.," which was sufficient proof that he had been beaten round without the strait; and, moreover, that from the change of the wind not being able to double the southernmost island, he anchored under the lee of it, cast himself down upon the extreme point, and reached over as far as was safe ; ;«id after the ship sailed, told his company that he had l^een " upon the southernmost point of land in the world known or likely to be known, and farther than any man liad ever before ventured." Mr. Fletcher, the chaplain, also landed here. He tbund this island three parts of a degree farther south than any of the other islands. To all the islands discovered here Drake gave the general name of the EUzabethidesj in compliment to his royal mistress. They were inhabited, and the natives were frequently seen, though little appears to have been learned of their character or customs. Having thus discovered and landed on the southern- most part of the continent, Drake changed the Terra Incognita* of the Spanish geographers into the Terra bene nunc Cognitaf of his chaplain, and on the 30th of Oc- ber, with a fair wind from the south, he held a course north-west ; but being bent on exploring, afterward kept east, not to lose the coast. On the 25th of November they anchored at the island of Mocha, off the coast of Chdi, where the captain-general landed. Cattle and sheep were seen here, and also maize and potatoes. Presents were exchanged with the Indians, and next day a watering party, which Drake accompanied, row- (3d towards the shore, in full security of their pacific dispositions. Two seamen who landed to fill the water- casks were instantly killed, and the rest of the party ■*^ * Land unknown. I Land now well known. v>- 32 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. f narro ,vly escaped an ambush laid for them in case they should come to the assistance of their countrymen. They were fiercely assailed with arrows and stones, and every one was wounded more or less severely. The general was wounded both in the face and on the head, and the attack was continued so warmly and tlose that the Indians seized four of the oars. This un- provoked attack was imputed by the ship's company to the hatred which the inhabitants of Chili bore the Span- iards, whom, it was presumed, they had not yet learned I < distinguish from other Europeans. In this view, it W'3s forgiven by men whose prejudices and animosity I SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ds case they untrymen. id stones, severely, nd on the irmly and This un- ►mpany to the Span- 3t learned s view, it animosity south, on ibout 32<* Bs, which n Indian dly treat- B gained ike to his ike gifts. It was object of" England little for d to the elieving e them learned so, the lay at e saw agerly Id from our of culty. Seas, Js jew- This worth con- I ^t m sisted of only nine families, fled ; and Drake's followers revelled in the unforbidden luxury of a general pillage of wine, bread, bacon, and other things most acceptable to men who had been so long at sea, both for present re- freshment and also for storing the ship. In every new Spanish settlement, however small, a church rose as it were simultaneously. The small chapel of Valparaiso was plundered of a silver chalice, two cruets, and its altar-cloth, which, to prevent their desecration, and to obtain a blessing on the voyage, were presented to Fletcher, the pastor of this ocean-flock. They sailed on the 8th with their prize, taking, however, only one of the crew, a Greek, named Juan.Griego, who was capa- ble of piloting them to Lima. Their Indian guide Fe- lipe was rewarded, and sent on shore near his own home. From the most southern point of this coasting voyage, Drake had been continually on the outlook for the Marigold and the Elizabeth ; and the Hind being too unwieldly to keep in near the coast in the search, a pin- nace was intended to be built for this duty, as well as tor other operations which the captain-general kept in view. A convenient place for this purpose had been found at Coquimbo. Near the spot selected the Span- iards had raised or collected a considerable force ; jmd a watering party of fourteen of the Enghsh was here surprised, and with some difficulty escaped ,from a body of three hundred horse and two hundred foot. One seaman was killed, owing, however, to his own braggart temerity. In a quieter and safer bay the pinnace was set up, and Drake himself embarked in it to look after the strayed ships ; but the wind becoming adverse he soon returned. They quitted this harbour on the 1 9th of Janu- ary, 1579, invigorated by a season of repose, by the re- freshments and booty obtained, and by the hopes of richer plunder and more glorious conquest. With few adventures they sailed along the coast, till accidentally landing at Tarapaza they found a Spaniard asleep on the shore, with thirteen bars of silver lying beside nim, as if waiting their arrival. Advancing a little farther, on landing to procure water, they feU in with a Span- 4 i 34 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. iard and an Indian boy driving eight lamas, each of which was laden with two leathern bags containing fifty pounds of silver, or eight hundred pounds in all. The lamas, or Peruvian sheep, are described by the old voyagers as of the size of an ass, with a neck like a camel, and of great strength and steadiness, forming the beast of burden of these countries. They were indeed the mules of the New World, but a much more valuable animal, as the wool is fine and the flesh good. The credulity of the most credulous of the family of John Bull — ^his sons of the ocean — was here amusingly dis- played. If the coast of Peru was not literally strewed with gold, pure silver was found so richly mixed with the soil that every hundred weight of common earth yielded, on a moderate calculation, five ounces. The eight lamas and their precious burden being brought on board, the Golden Hind next entered the port of Arica, where two or three small barks then lay. These, when rifled, were found perfectly unprotected, the crews being on shore, unable to imagine danger on this coast. Arica is described as a beautiful and fertile valley. The town contained about twenty houses, which, the Famous Voyage states, "we would have ransacked if our company had been better and more numerous ; but our general, contented with the spoil of the ships, put to sea, and sailed for Lima," in pursuit of a vessel very richly laden, of which they had obtained intelligence. The ship, of which they were now in hot pursmt, got notice of her danger in time to land the treasure with which she was freighted, — eight hundred bars of silver, the property of the King of Spain. Drake, now preparing for active measures, rid himself of every encumbrance, by setting all the sails of his prizes, and turning them adrift whithersoever the winds might carry them. The arrival of these tenantless barks on some wild coast or lonely island, may yet form the theme of Indian tradition, though more probably they must all have been dashed to pieces. . Tidings of the English being upon the coast had by this time been dispatched over land to the governor at Lima; but the aifficulty of travelling in these still SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 35 \, each of containing ids in all. by the old 3ck like a s, forming rhey were luch more lesh good, ilyof John singly dis- y strewed mixed with uon earth BS. •den being itered the 3 then lay. protected, danger on and fertile y houses, 5uld have and more le spoil of pursuit of obtained low in hot land the hundred . Drake, of every :zes, and [ht carry on some :heme of [must all had by emor at lese still tangled and trackless regions, enabled Drake to outstrip the messenger, and on the 13th of September to surprise the Spanish ships lying in Callao, the port of Lima. The spoil was trifling for the number of vessels. In board- ing a ship from Panama, which was just then entering the port, an Englishman waa killed. Another account says he was shot from a boat while pursuing the crew, who were abandoning the vessel. In one ship a chest of ryals of plate and a considerable store of linens, silks, and general merchandise were obtained. From the prisoners Drake learned that ten days before, the Cacafuego, laden with treasure, had sailed for Panama, the point from whence all goods were carried across the isthmus. This information at once determined the course of our navigator ; and as ships from Callao to Panama were in the habit of touching at intermediate places, he reckoned the Cacafuego already his prize. As a measure of precaution the mainmasts of the two largest prizes found here were cut away, the cables of the smaller ones were severed, and, the goods and peo- ple being previously removed, the whole were abandon- ed to the mercy of the winds and waves ; while Drake bore northward in full sail, or when the wind slackened was towed on by the boats, each man straining to reach the golden goal. But this rather anticipates the course of the narrative. When inteUigence of Drake's ship at last reached Lima, it was presumed that some of the Spanish crews had mutinied, and that the Golden Hind was a Spanish \essel turned pirate, so little was an attack by the Eng^ lish on this side of the continent deemed possible, or that the ships of any nation save Spain could pass the intricate and fatal Straits of Magellan. On being ap- prized of the real fact and of the danger impending, Don Francisco de Toledo, the viceroy at Lima, imme- diately repaired to the port with a force estimated by Lopez Vaz at two thousand horse and foot. The Golden Hind still remained in sight of the port, and nearly be- calmed. Two vessels, in each of which two hundred fighting men were embarked, were equipped in all haste, and the capture of Drake, the pirat^heretici was cd- SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ready confidently reckoned upon. At the same honr in which they left the port to make the attack a fresh ^le sprung up, and the English ship pressed onward. The flight and pursuit were continued for some time, as it was not the policy of Drake, with his very inferior force, to risk an action. By an oversight, most fortu- nate for the English, the Spaniards, in their eagerness and confidence of an easy conquest, had neglected to take provisions on board. Famine compelled them to abandon the pursuit ; but Don Francisco lost no time in remedying this inadvertence. A force of three ships, fully equipped, was despatched under the command of Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa, but arrived too late. The same commander afterward long watched, and waited in vain, the return of Drake by the straits. On his recommendation they were after wards fortified and a colony planted, — an abortive attempt, which cost Spain much treasure and many lives. Near Payti, a small vessel, in which some silver or- naments were found, was rifled and dismissed ; and on passing Payti, from the crew of a vessel which was searched they learned that the Cacafuego had the start of them now only by two days. Every nerve was fresh braced for pursuit ; but the future advantage hoped for did not lead them in the mean time to despise present small gains. Two more vessels were intercepted', rifled, and turned adrift, the crews being first landed. In one of these some silver and eighty pounds of gold were found, and a golden crucifix, in which was set " a goodly and great emerald." They also found a good supply of useful stores and a large quantity of cordage, which made most part of the cargo. On the 24th Feb- r'iary they crossed the line, the Cacafuego still ahead and unseen ; and Drake, to animate the hop.es and quicken the vigilance of his company, offered as a re- ward to whoever should first descry the prize the gold chain which be usually wore. The reward was gained by Mr. John Drake, who at three o'clock in the after- noon of the 1st of March, from the mast-head, discerned the prize, which by six o'clock was boarded and taken. This capture was made off Cape Francisco, The cap- SIR FRANCIS DRAKB. 87 IS set "a tain, a Biscayan, named Juan de Anton, was so little aware of his danger, that seeing a vessel coming up to him under a press of sail, he concluded that the viceroy had sent some important message, and struck his sails I to await the approach of the Golden Hind. When "" aware from closer inspection of his mistake, he tried to escape ; but he was already within reach of Drake's £runs, and possessed no defensive weapons of any kind. Yet, with the brave spirit of his province, the Biscayan refused to strike till his mizzenmast was shot away and he himself wounded by an arrow. This ship proved to be a prize worth gaining. It contained twenty-six tons of silver, thirteen chests of ryals of plate, and eighty pounds of gold, besides dia- monds and inferior gems, — the whole estimated at three hundred and sixty thousand pesos. Among the spoils were two very handsome silver gilt bowls belonging to the pilot, of which Drake de- manded one ; which the doughty Spaniard surrender- ing, presented the other to the steward, as if he dis- dained to hold any thing by the favour of the English. H.id Drake, thus richly laden, now been assured of a safe and an easy passage to England, it is probable that the Golden Hind might not on this voyage nave en- compasscd ihe globe. The advanced season, however, and the outlook which he was aware the Spaniards would keep for his return, forbade the attempt of re- passing the straits ; while the glory of discovery, and the hope of taking his immense treasure safely to Eng- land, determined him in the resolution of seeking a north-west pafeage homeward. Though not in general communicative, his plans were no sooner formed than he unfolded them to the ship's company, with the per- suasive eloquence of a man eminently fitted for com- mand. The crew were now in high spirits, and full of confidence in their skilful, bold, and successful leader. His counsel, which carried all the weight of command, was " to seek out some convenient place to trim the ship, and store it with wood, water, and such provisions as could be found, and thenceforward to jiuisten our in- tended journey for the discoveiy of the said passage, 4* SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. through which we might with joy return to our longed- for homes. With this resolution they steered for Nicaragua, and on the 16th March anchored in a small bay of the island of Canno, which proved a good station to water and rciit. The pinnace was once more on active duty, and a prize was brought in laden with honey, butter, sarsa- parilla, and other commodities. Among the papers of the prize were letters from the King of Spain to the governor of the Philippines, and sea-charts, which after- ward proved of use to the English. While Drake lay here a violent shock of an earthquake was felt. From Canno they sailed on the 24th March, the captain-gene- ral never loitering in any port beyond the time abso- lutely necessary to repair tne ship and take in water. On the 6th of April they made another valuable prize. Being already well supplied with stores, their cnoice was become more nice and difficult ; and selecting fonly silks, linen, delicate porcelain, and a falcon of finely wrought gold, in the brc?ast of which a large emerald was set, the vessel was dismissed, and of her crew only a negro and the pilot detained, who steered them into the harbour of Guatalco. Landing, according to their approved good practice, to ransack the town. It. is re- lated in the Famous Voyage that they surprised a council then holding on certain negroes* accused of a plot to burn the place. To their mutual astonishment, judges and culprits were hurried on boord in company, and the chief men were compelled to write to the towns- peofle to make no resistance to the English. The only plunder found in ransacking this small place, in which there vvere but fourteen persons belonging to Old Spain, consisted of abc ut a bushel of ryals of plate. One of the party, Mr. John Winter, seeing a Spaniard taking flight, pursued and took from the fugitive a chain of gold and i=»ome jewels. This is related wUh great exulta- tion, as a feat of pecuUar dexterity and merit. All the Spaniards on board the Golden Hind were now set at * Probably Indians, the name Negro or Indian being used indiscriminately by the et>rly voyagers. Sm FRANCIS DRAKB. 39 iir longed- m agua, and m the island * tvater and 1 duty, and " ■"■' ter, sarsa- # papers of aia to the 1 tii.ch after- % Drake lay It. From -«i» tain-gene- ime abso- 'Si mm in water. ■'i^t ible prize, eir cnoice m cting fonly of finely e emerald crew only them into M ig to their "*«, n, It is re- rprisud a used of a nishment» ^M company, he towns- -Vij^B The only in which ;>;-S^H| Id Spain, One of 'f^m rd taking chain of it exulta- '^sS^B AU the H^^^^B )w set at ^H Eiiminately liberty. The Portuguese pilot, Nuno Silva, who had been brought from the Cape de Verd' Islands, was als<^ dismissed^ and probably at this place wrote the relation of the voyage from which quotations have been made in this memoir. Silva's account was sent to the Portu- guese viceroy in India, and long afterward fell into the hands of the English. Satiated with plunder on sea and shore, Drake, on the 16th of April, sailed on that bold project of discovery for- merly communicated to his company, and by the 3d of June had gone over fourteen hundred leagues, in differ- ent courses, without seeing land. They had now reach- ed 43° north, the cold was becoming very severe, and, in advancing two or three degrees farther, so intense, that meat froze the instant it was removed from the fire, and the ropes and tacliiing of the ship became rigid Irom the influence of the frost. On the 5th, being driven in by the winds, land was seen, and they anchor- ed in a small bay, too unsheltered, however, to admit of their remaining. Drake had not expected to find the coast stretching so far westward. The wind was now become adverse to holding a northerly course, although the extreme cold, and the chill, raw, unwholesome fogs which surrounded them had made such a track de- sirable. The land seen here was in general low ; but wh 3rever a height appeared it was found coverea with snow, though now almost midsummer. The land seen was the western coast of California. On the 17th of June they anchored in a good harbour, on an inhabited coast. As the Hind drew near the sliore the natives approach- ed, and an ambassador or spokei:man put off in a canoe, v/ho made a formal harangue, accompanied with much gesticulation. When the oration was concluded, he made a profc :nd obeisance and retired to the land. A second and a third time he returned in the same man- ner, bringing, as a gift or tribute, a bunch of feathers neatly trimmed and stuck together, and a basket made of rushes. Of these rushes it was after;vard found that the natives fabricated several useful and pretty things. The females, though the men were entirely nakedjWore A sort of petticoat composed of rufcl 3, previously 40 SIE FRANCIS DRAKE. Jl^:.\ Stripped into long threads resembling hemp. The/ also wore deer skins round their shoulders ; and some of the men occasionally used furs as a covering. It was remarked, that the Indians appeared as sensible to the extreme severity of the weather as the English sea- men, — cowering, shivering, and keeping huddled to- gether, even when wrapped up in their furs. The basket brought by the Indian ambassaonr or orator was filled with an herb which, in some of the original rela- tions of the voyage is called tabah, the native name, and in others tobacco. The Indian was either afraid or un- willing to accept of sny present from the English in re- turn for this simple tribute, but picked up a hat which was sent afloat towards him. The kindness of Drake ultimately gained the confidence of thsse people. The ship had some time before sprung a leak, and it was here found necessary to 1p ■ i the goods and stores that she might be repaired. ?"^ . ; 21st this was done, though the natives appeared to view the movement with suspicion and dissatisfaction. They, however, laid aside their bows and arrows, when requested to do so, and an exchange of presents further cemented the growing friendship. They retired apparently satisfied ; but had no sooner reached their huts, which stood at a considerable distance, than a general howling and lamentation commenced, which lasted all night. The females especially continued shrieking in a wild and doleful manner, which, if not absolutely appalling to the English, was yet to the last degree painful. Drake, whose pn sence of mind never forsook huH. and who was seldom lulled into false security bv iM'-'^^ances of friendship, mistrusting the state of CaC! eiaent into which the Indians were raised, took the piec:.,ation of intrenching the tents, into which the goods and the crew had been removed while the repairs of the ship were in progress. For the two days following " tiie night of lamentation," no native appeared. At the end of that time a great number seemed to have joined the party first seen ; and the '^ hole assembled . on a height overlooking the fortified s'j t; >n of the ship's company, and appeared desirous ol >ri pre iching the SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ). The and some M ering. It M ensible to m gUsh sea- % iddled to- ■ ';■$ rs. The -ij. )rator was '^ 'inal rela- '^.S lame, and *^ aid or un- ■;'^ lish in re- >,'i| lat which jS of Drake ■« )le. ,,i«r ak, and it md stores ■ '^^ was done, ^jU6 novement however, sted to do '^avI ented the satisfied ; ■ M tood at a ling and ht. The -^^^E wild and '.''^^TOMy ng to the Iw Drake, and who r^JH ances of .ent into v.ition of and the the ship Vir^^^H ig "the At the to ha\e jembled e ship's ing the Strangers. The ceremonies were opened by an orator or herald making a long speech or proclamation, with which the audience were understood to express assent by bowing their bodies at the conclusion, and groaning in chorus — oh ! or oh ! oh ! After this friendly demon- stration, for as such it Was intended, a deputation of the assembly stuck their bows into the earth, and, bearing gifts of feathers and rush baskets with tabah^ descended towards the fort. While this was passing below, the women, mixed with the group on the height, began to shriek and howl, as on the " night of lamentation," to tear their flesh with their nails, and dash themselves on the giound, till the blood sprung from their bodies. This is said, in the Famous Voyage, to have been part of the orgies of their idol or demon worship. Drake, it is said, struck with grief and horror, and probably not without a tincture of superstition, ordered divine service to be solemnized. The natives sat silent and attentive, at proper pauses breathing their expressive "oA/" in token of assent or approbation. With the psalms, sunff probably to one of the dimple solemn chants of the old church, they appeared affected and charmed ; and they repeatedly afterward requested their visiters to sing. On taking leave they declined the gifts tendered, either from superstitious dread, or as probably on the same principle which makes a clown at a fair afraid to accept the tempting shilling offered by a recruiting sergeant, — Irom no dislike to the coin, or reluctance to drink the king's health, but from great distrust of the motives of the giver. The voyagers, with amusing self-complai- sance, ascribe this fear or delicacy to the dcv p venera- tion of the natives, and to their thinking " themselves sufficiently enriched and happy ttiut they had free ac- cess to see us." The Indians hero managed their foreign relations with a ceremonial that might have sufficed tor moie refined societies. The news of the arrival of the English having spread, on the 26th two heralds or pursuivants arrived at head-quarters, craving an audience of the captain- general on the part of their hioh or king. The precursor of majesty harangued a full half-hour, his associate die- 42 8IR FRANCIS DRAKE. tating to, or prompting him, and concluded by demand- ing tokens of friendship and safe conduct for the chief. These were cheerfully given. The approach ofthehioh was well arranged, and im- posing in effect. First came the sceptre or mace-bear- er as he is called, though club-bearer would be le more correct phrase. This officer was a tall and handsome man, of noble presence. His staffer club of office was about five feet in length, and made of a dark wood. To this were attached two pieces of net-work or chain-work, curiously and delicately wrought, of a bony substance, minute, thin, and burnished ; and consisting of innumer- able links. He had also a basket of tahah. These net- cauls or chains were supposed to be the insignia of per- sonal rank and dignity, akin to the crosses, stars, and ribands of civilized nations, the number of them worn de- noting the degree of consequence, as the importance of a pasha is signified by the numbci of his tails. The king followed his minister, and in his turn was succeeded by a man of tall stature, with an air of natural grandeur and majesty which struck the English visiters. The royal guard came next in order. It was formed of one hun- dred picked men, tall and martial-looking, and clothed in skins. Some of them wore ornamental head-dresses made of feathers, or of a feathery down which grew upon a plant of the country. The king wore about his shoul- ders a robe made of the skins of the species of marmot afterward described. Next in place in this national procession came the common people, every one painted, though in a variety of patterns, and with feathers stuck in the club of hair drawn up at the crown of their heads. The women and children brought up the rear, carrying each, as a propitiatory gift, a basket, in which w either tabahf broiled fish, or a root that the natives ate both raw and baked. Drake, seeing them so numerous, drew up his men in order, and under arms, within his fortification or block- house. At a few paces' distance the procession halted, and deep silence was observed, while the sceptre-bear^ er, prompted as before by another official, harangued for a full half-hour. His eloquent address, whatever it i ly demand- r the chief. ed, and im- mace-bear- be le more I handsome f office was wood. To ihain-work, substance, ofinnumer- These net- gnia of per- , stars, and m worn de- ortance of a The king icceeded by randeur and The royal Df one hun- md clothed ad-dresses grew upon Lt his shoul- of marmot |is national le painted, Lhers stuck leir heads. I*, carrying ifhich w latives ate I his men in or block- |on halted, )tre-beari- mgued for latever it ^ tv SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. might import, receiving the concurrent "oA/" of the na- tional assembly, the same orator commenced a song or chant, keeping time in a slow, solemn dance, performed with a stately air, the king and all the warriors joining both in the measure and me chorus. The females also moved in the dance, but silently. Drake could no longer doubt of their amicable feelings and peaceful in- tentions. They were admitted, still singing and moving in a choral dance, within the fort. The orations and songs were renewed and prolonged; and the chief, placing one of his crowns upon the head of the captain- general, and investing him with the other imagined in- signia of royalty, courteously tendered him his whole dominions, and hailed him king! Songs of triumph were raised, as if in confirmation of this solemn cession of territory and sovereignty. Such is the interpretation which the old voyagers put upon a ceremony that has been more rationally conjectured to resemble the inter- change or exchange of names, which in the South Sea islands seals the bonds of friendship ; or as something equivalent to a European host telling his visiter that he is master of the house. " The admiral," it is shrewdly observed, " accepted of this new-offered dignity in her majesty's name, and for her use ; it being probable that, from this donation, whether made in jest or earnest by these Indians, some real advantage might hereafter re- dound to the English nation and interest in these parts." We are expressly informed that the natives afterward actually worshipped their guests ; and that it was ne- cessary to check their idolatrous homage. They roam- ed about among the tents, admiring all they saw, and expressing their attachment to the English in their own peculiar fashion. It was for the youngest of the com- pany these fondnesses were imbibed. To express affec- tion, the Indians surrounded and gazed upon them, and then began to howl and tear their flesh till they stream- ed in their own blood, to demonstrate the livehness and strength of their affection. The same unnatural and uncouth shows of regard continued to be made while the English remained on the coast; and obeisances and homage were rendered, which, being considered as ap- 44 SIR FRAXCIS DRAKE. proaching to sacrifice or worship, wer' strenuously and piously disclaimed. These people ar j described as an amiable race ; of a free, tractable, kindly nature, with- out guile or treachery. To mark their esteem of the English, and confidence in their skill and superiority, it may be noticed that they applied for medicaments for their wounds and sores. The men, as has been noticed, were generally naked ; but the women, besides the short petticoat woven of peeled bulrushes, wore deer skins, with the hair on, round thexr shoulders. They were remarked to be good wives, — ^very obedient and serviceable to their hus- bands. The men were so robust and powerful that a burden which could hardly be borne by two of the sea- men, a single native would with ease carry up and down hill for a mile together. Their weapons were bows and arrows, but of a feeble, useless kind. Their dwellings were constructed in a round form, built of earth, and roofed with pieces of wood joined together at a common centre, somewhat in form of a spire. Being partly under ground, they were close and warm. The tire was placed in the middle, and beds of rushes were spread on the floor. Before sailing, Drake made an excursion into the in- terior. Immense herds of deer were seen, large and fat ; and the country seemed one immense warren of a species of ccny of the size of a Barbary rat, " their heads and faces like rabbits in England ; their paws like a mole, their tails like a rat. Under their chin on each side was a pouch, into which they gathered meat to feed their young, Ox serve themselves another time." The natives ate the flesh of those animals, and greatly prized their skins, of which the state-robes worn by the king at hi? interview with Drake were made. The admiral named this fair and fertile country New Albion, and erected a monument of his discovery, to which was nailed a brass plate bearing the name, effigy, and arms of her majesty, and asserting her territorial rights, and the date of possession being taken. Drake had spent thirty-six days at this place, — a long but necessaiy sojourn ; but the repairs oi the ship being 1 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. m completed, on the 23d of July he bore away from Port Drake, the kind-hearted natives deeply bewailing the departure of their new friends. The regret, good-will, and respect were indeed mutual. The Indians entreat- ed the English to remember them, and as a farewell offering or homage secretly provided what is called a sacrifice. While the ship remained in sight, they kept fires burning on the heights. It is delightful at this time to hear of Europeans leaving grateful remembrances of their visits on any coast, p,nd the pleasure is enhan- ced by being able to claim this honour for our country- men. It was from some fancied resemblance to the white cliffs of England that Drake bestowed on the coast he had surveyed, the name of New Albion.* Next day a store of seals and birds were caught at some small islands which are now supposed to be the Farellones of modem charts. Thus far had Drake boldly explored in search of a passage homeward, either through an undiscovered strait, or around the northern extremity of the continent of America; but now this design, so honourable to his enterprise and even to his sagacity, was for the present abandoned ; the winds being adverse, and the season too much advanced to prosecute farther so perilous an adventure. Leaving the scene of his discoveries on the western coast of America, which are reckoned to begin immediately to the north of Cape Mendocino and to ex- tend to 48® N., Drake, with the unanimous consent of his company, having formed the design of returning home by India and the Cape of Good Hope, sailed west- ward for sixty-eight days without coming in sight of land. On the 13th of September he fell in with some islands in 8** N. As soon as the Golden Hind appeared, the natives came off in canoes, each containing from four to fourteeij men, bringing cocoanuts, fish, and fruits. Their canoes were ingeniously formed and prettily or- * Afterpassing Punta de los Reyes, Captain Beechey awaited the return of day, on some white cliffs, which he believed must be those which made Sir Francis Drake bestow on this tract of country the name of New Albion. ^ * SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. namented, hollowed out of a single tree, and so high at the stem and prow as to be nearly semicircular. The islanders were not yet sufficiently enlightened in mer- cantile affairs to have learned that honesty is the deal- er's best policy. Drake, however, instead of imitating the conduct of Magellan, and instantly shooting them for thieving, or burning their houses, endeavoured to bring them to a sense of propriety merely by refusing to traffic with those who were found dishonest. This ex- cited their displeasure, and a general attack of stones was commenced. A cnnnon, not shotted, fired over their heads to scare them nway had only this effect for a short time. The general was at last compelled to adopt more severe measures of retaliation, and we are told in vague terms that "smart was necessary as well as ter- ror." The natives of those Islands of Thieves, as they were named by the English, had the lobes of their ears cut out into a circle, which hung down on their cheeks. Their teeth were black as jet, from the use of a powder which they constantly employed for the purpose of staining them. This powder they carried about with them in a hollow cane. Another peculiarity observefl was the length of their nails, which was above an inch. It has been conjectured, with every mark of probability, that Drake's Islands of Thieves are the islands named De Sequeira, discovered by Diego da Rocha, and the Pelew Islands of our own times ; if so, the morals of the inhabitants must have improved greatly in the long interval which elapsed between this first visit of ♦he English and that made by Captain Wilson in the Duff". The wind coming fair, on the 3d of October the Golden Hind stood westward, and on the 16th of the month made the Philippines in 7° 5' north of the hne. They first fell in with four islands having a thick population, or the appearance of it. These they visited, and after- ward anchored in Mindanao. Sailing hence on the 22d, they kept a southerly course, and passed between two islands about six or eight leagues south of Minda- nao, supposed to be the Sarangan and Gandigar. On tlie 3d of November the Moluccas were seen, and they steered for Tidore; but in coasting along Motir a ' .. .*' '' ' . ' ■' » *»."■• ' ■ •'■ SIR FRANXIS DRAKE. 47 SO high at liar. The xl in mer- 3 the deal- f imitating )ting them ivoured to refusing to Thisex- i of stones fired over affect for a ;d to adopt are told in ^ell as ter- 3s, as thev their ears sir cheeks. a powder (urpose of bout with observed e an inch. obability, ds named and the morals of the long sit of ♦he the Duff. le Golden he month They ipulation, ,nd after- le on the between f Minda- boat came off, from which Drake learned that the Por- tuguese, expelled from Terrenate, or Temate, by the king of that island, had fixed their head-quarters at Ti- dore. In diis boat was the Viceroy of Motir, which island was under the sovereignty of the powerful and warlike king of Temate. As soon as the viceroy under- stood that Drake had no reason either to love or trust the Portuguese, he entreated him to change his destina- tion ; and the ship accordingly steered for the port of Ternate. Previous to coming to au anchor before the town, a courteous offer of friendship was made by the general through a messenger whom he sent on shore with a vel- vet cloak as a present to the king, and who was instruct- ed to say that the English came hither only to trade and to procure refreshments. The viceroy of Motir had previously disposed the king to give Drake a favourable reception. To the general's message a gracious answer was returned. All that the territories of the King of Ternate afforded, were at the disposal of the English, and that prince was ready to lay himself and his whole dominions at the feet of so glorious a princess as the Queen of England. By some of the voyagers this flour- ish of oriental hyperbole is most literally interpreted. The English envoy was received with great pomp ; and as credentials, or safe-conduct, a signet (we are not told in what form) was transmitted through him to the cap- tain-general. Before the ship came to anchor the king put off" to pay it a visit of v dlcome and ceremony. The royal equipment consisted of three state barges, or ca- noes, filled with the most distinguished persons of his retinue. They wore dresses of white muslin, — " white lawn, of cloth of Calicut." Over their heads was a canopy or awning of perfumed mats, supported on a framework of reeds. Their personal attendants, also dressed in white, stood next tnem; and bej'^ond these were ranks of Wcurriors armed with dirks and daggers. These again were encircled by the rowers, of which there were eighty to each barge, placed in galleries raised above the other seats, three on each side. They rowed, or rather paddled, in cadence to -the clashing of Wm SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. cymbals, and altogether made a gallant show. The king, who advanced in the last barge, was saluted witli a discharge of all the great guns, and the martial music which Drake employed on occasions of ceremonial, struck up. The canoes paddi^d round and round the ship, the king appearing delighted with the music, and gratified by the signs of wealth and magnificence ex- hibited by his visiters. He was himself a tall, stout, graceful man, and celebrated as a conqueror and war- rior. By policy and force of arms he had not only ex- pelled the Portuguese from this island, but subdued many others, so that seventy islands now owned his sway. He professed the faith of Mohammed, Avhich was now become the religion of all his dominions. It is worthy of remark, that in the ceremonies and external observances of royalty the native princes of these Indian islands might have vied with the most polished courts of Europe. Elizabeth, whose board was daily spread with lowly bends and reverences, was not more punc- tilious in ceremonial and etiquette than the sovereign of Ternate. His courtiers and attendants approached the royal presence with the most profound respect, no one speaking to the king save in a kneeling posture. As socn as the ship came to an anchor the king took leave, promising another visit on the following day. That same evening a present of fowls, rice, sugar, cloves, and frigo was received, and "a sort of fruit," says the Famous Voyage, "they call sago, which is a iiieal made out of the tops of trees, melting in the mouth like sugar, but eating like sour curd; but yet when made into cakes will keep so as to be very fit for eating at the end of ten years." It is pleasant to come thus upon the first simple notice of those productions of other climes which have so long contributed to the comfort, variety, or luxury of European communities. Instead of conr ing on board next day the king sent his brother to bear his excuses, and to remain as a hostage for the safe return of the captain-general, who was in- vited to land. The invitation was not accepted, the English having some doubts of the good faith of the fair-promising sovereign of Ternate. But some of the SIR FRANCIS DRAKK. 49 how. The aluted with irtial music [ceremonial, I round the music, and ificence ex- tall, stout, r and war- 3t only ex- It subdued owned his led, which ions. It is id external lese Indian hed courts ily spread lore punc- jvereign of oached the ct, no one iture. As ook leave, ce, sugar, of fruit," vhich is a the mouth ^et when or eating pme thus of other comfort, sent his hostage was in- ted, the of the e of the I gentlemen went on shore ; their first acquaintance, the f Viceroy of Motir, remaining as a hostage, as well as the ; king's brother. On landing, they were received with f the pomp which had been intended to grace the entrance ; of Drake into the capital ; another brother of the king ^ and a party of the nobles conducted them to t^e palace, which stooil near the dismantled fort of the expelled Portuguese. There they found an assembly of at least a thousand persons, sixty of them being courtiers or privy-counsellors, " very grave persons," and four Turk- ish envoys, in robes of scarlet and turbans, who were then at the court of Ternate concluding a treaty of com- merce. The king was guarded by twelve lances. "A glorious canopy embroidered with gold was carried over his head." His garb was a robe of cloth of gold, hang- ing loose about his person ; his legs were bare, but on his feet he wore slippers of Cordovan leather. Around his neck hung a weighty chain of gold, and fillets of the same metal were wreathed through his hair. On his fingers "were many fair jewels." At the right side of his chair of state stood a page cooling him with a fan two feet in length and one in breadth, embroidered and adorned with sapphires, and fastened to a staff three feet long, by which it was moved. His voice was low, and his aspect benign. Drake did not afterward land; and the offers made of exclusive trafiic with the English were, it appears, received by him with indifference. Having procured a supply of provisions and a consid- erable quantity of cloves, the Golden Hind left the Mo- luccas on the 9th of November, and on the 14th anchor- ed at a small island near the eastern part of Celebes, which they named Crab Island. This place being un- inhabited and affording abundance of wood, though no water was found, tents were erected on shore, and fences formed around them ; and here they resolved effectually to repair the ship for her homeward voyage. This proved a pleasant sojourn. The island was one continued forest of a kind of trees, large, lofty, and straight in the stem, nor branching out till near the top ; the leaves resembling the broom of England. About 5* 50 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. these trees flicker innumerable bats "as big as hens." There were also multitudes of shining flies no bigger than the common fly in England, which, skimming up and down in the air, between the trees and bushes, made them appear "as if they were burning." There were also great numbers of land-crabs, described as a sort of crayfish, "which dig holes in the earth like co- nies, and are so large that one of them will dine four persons, and very good meat." At a small neighbouring island water was procured, and on the 12th of December, having lain at Crab Island about a month, the Hind sailed for the west, and soon got entangled among islets and shoals, which induced them to steer for the south, to get free of such dangerous ground. At this time occurred the most imminent peril and providential escape that attended this remarkable voyage, — an incident as much resembling a visible in- terposition of Divine aid where human hope had perish- ed as any to be found among the almost miraculous records of preservation contained in the relations of maritime adventure. After being teased for ma ^ays, on the 9th of Janu- ary they flattered themselvco i lat the shoals were at last cleared. On that i«anie evening, early in the first watch, while the Golden Hind with all her sails set was run- ning before a fair wind, she came suddenly upon a shelving rock, and stuck fast. Violent as was the shock she had sprung no leak, and the boats were immediate- ly lowered to sound, and ascertain if an anchor could be placed in such a situation as would permit the ship to be drawn off* into deep water. But the rock in which she was as it were jammed, shelved so abruptly that at the distance of only a few yards no bottom could be found. A night of great anxiety was passed ; and when the dawn permitted a second search for anchorage- ground, it only ended in more confirmed and bitter dis- appointment. There seemed no help of man ; yet in the midst of their call mity several fortunate, or more {)roperly providential, circumstances intervened. No eak had been sprung ; and though the ebb-tide left the ship in only six feet of water, while, so deeply was she SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 61 treasnre-laden, thirteen were required to float her, a strong and steady gale blowing from the side to which she must have reeled as the tide gradually receded, supported her in this dangerous position. In this dread- ful situation, instead of giving themselves up to despair or apathy. Drake and his company behaved with the manliness, coolness, and resolution which have ever in the greatest perils characterized British seamen. The crew were summoned to prayers, and, this solemn duty fulfilled, a last united effort was made for the common safety. A quantity of meal, eight of the guns, and three tons of cloves were thrown overboard. This partial hghtening produced no visible effect ; the ship stuck as fast as before. The simple language of the original narrative is so much more forcible and touching than any modern paraphrase, that we at once adopt it. In a single sentence it displays the manly and selt-depend- ing character of Drake, and the veneration and implicit confidence with which his crew regarded him : — " Of all other days," s.iys one old relation, "on the 9th of Jan- uary, in the yeere 1579 (1580,) we ranne upon a rocke, where we stuck fast from eight of the clocke at nighte till four of the clocke in the afternoon of next day, being, indeed, out of all hope to escape the danger ; but our generall, as hee had alwayes shown himself couragious, and of a good confidence in the mercie and protection of God, so now he continued in the same ; and lest he should seem to perish wilfully, both hee and wee did our best endevour to save ourselves, which it pleased God so to bless that in the ende we cleared ourselves most happily of the danger." It was, however, by no effort of their own that they were finally extricated, though nothing that skill and courage could suggest or accom- plish was wanting. The wind slackened and fell with the tide, and at the lowest of the ebb veered to the o|> posite point, when the vessel suddenly reeled to her side. The shock loosened her keel, and at the moment of what appeared inevitable destruction she plunged into the deep water once more as freely afloat as when first launched into the ocean. The thankfulness of the * « SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ship's company may be imagined.* This dangerous shoal or reef is not far from the coast of Celebes, in 1° 56' S. Their perilous adventure made tbem afterward very wary ; and it was not till some weeks had elapsed that, cautiously exploring their way, thcT- finally extricated themselves from this entangled coast. On the 8th of February they fell in with the island of Baratane, probably the island now called Booton, a pleasant and fruitful place. It afforded gold, silver, copper, and sulphur. The fruits and other natural pro- ductions were ginger, long pepper, lemons, cocoas, cu- , cumbers, nutmegs, frigo, sago, &c. &c. Ternate ex- cepted, this island afforded better and greater variety of refreshments for the mariner than any land at which our navigators had touched dince they had left England. The inhabitants v/*^re worthy of the fertile region they inhabited. In form and features they were a handsome people; in disposition and manners, mild and friendly; fair in their dealings, and obliging in their behaviour. The men were naked, save a small turban and a piece of cloth about their waists ; but the women were clothed from the rr.iddie to the feet, and had their arms loaded with bracvileta fashioned of bone, horn, and brass. The men universally wore ornaments in their ears. These islanders received the English with kindness and civili- ty, and gladly su[>plied their wants. Leaving Baratane with very favourable impressions of the country and the people, they made sail for Java, which was reached on the 12th of March. Here the navigj? tors remained for twelve days in a course of con- I ■(! * It has been shrewdly remarked, that these pious seamen never for one moment seem to have entertained the idea of throwing any part of their immense treast\'e overboard, which would have materially lightened the ship. The accownt of the escape given in "the Famous Voyage" differs from the above, vhich is, however, regarded as the most authentic relation of this almost .-.liraculous preservation. It states, that after the ship was lightened, "the wind (as it were in a moment by the special grace of God,) changing from the starboard to the larboard side, we hoisted our sails, and the happy gale drove our ship off the rocks into the sea again, to the no small comfort of all our hearts; for wliich we gave God such praise and thanks as tio great a benefit required." m ■■.f* dangerous jbes, in 1° ward very ipsed that, extricated e island of Booton, a >ld, silver, itural pro- locoas, cu- ernate ex- variety of which our : England, igion they handsome I friendly ; behaviour, id a piece re clothed ns loaded Lss. The These md civili- pressions for Java, Here the e of con- MR FRANCIS DRAKE. «iP stant festivity. The inland was at this time governed by five Independent chiefs or rajahs, who lived in per- fect amity, and vied with each other in showing hospi- 1 tality and courtesy to their English visiters. tk The social condition of the Javans at this compara- '^ lively early period exhibits a pleasing and attractive i picture of semi-barbarous Ufe, if a state of society may be thus termed, which appears to realize many of our late Utopian schemes of visionary perfection. The Ja- vans were of good size and well-formed, bold, and war- like. Their weapons and armour were swords, buck- lers, and daggc? 3 of their own manufacture, the blades admirably teuipered, the handles highly ornamented. The upper part of their bodies was entirely naked, but from the waist downwards they wore a flowing garment of silk of some gay and favourite colour. In every vil- lage there was a house of assembly, or public hall, where these social and cheerful people, whom we may call the French of the Indian islands, met twice a day to partake of a kind of picnic meal and enjoy the plea- sures of conversation. To this common festival every one contributed at his pleasure or convenience, bringing fruits, boiled rice,* roast fowls, and sago. On a table raised three feet the feast was spread, and the party gathered round, "every one delighting in the company of another." While the Hind lay here a constant in- tercourse and interchange of kindnesses and civilities were maintained between the sea and shore ; the rajahs coming frequently on board either singlv or together. But the delights of Java could not long banish the remembrance of England, to which every wish was now directed. Making sail from Java, the first land seen was the Cape of Good Hope, which they passed on the 15th of June. The Spaniards had not more studiously magnified the real dangers of Magellan's Straits than 1 * The Javan cookery of rice, a« described by Drake's crew, is worthy of a place in English cookery books. An earthen vessel of u conical form, open at the widest end, and perforated with holes, was filled with rice, and plunged into a larger vessel of boiling water. The rice, swelling, soon stopped the holes, and the mass was steamed till it became tirm and hard like bread, when it was eaten with spices, fruit, sugar, meat, oil, &c. &g. ■s. 54 SIR FRAXCIS DRAKE. the Portuguese had exaggerated and misrepresented the storms and perils which surround the Cape ; and it re- quired the characteristic intrepidity and consummate skill of Drake to venture with his single bark on this doubtful and almost untried navigation. It is, however, probable that he suspected the craft which suggested this attempt to hoodwink and delude all other maritime nations, that Portugal might long retain a monopoly of her important discovery. Certain it is, that the ship's company were surprised that close by the Cape — " the most stately thing and goodliest cape seen in the circum- ference of the whole earth" — no violent tempests or awful perils were encountered ; and they accordingly shrewdly concluded the report of the " Portugals most false." Deeming it unsafe or inexpedient to halt here, Drake Stood for land of which he had better knowledge, and on the 22d of July arrived at Sierra Leone. Water was obtained, and the refreshment of fruits and oysters, of which, we are told, " one kind was found on trees spawning and increasing wonderfully, — ^the oyster suf- fering no bud to grow." It was imagined the 26th of September, 1580, when, without touching at other land, Captain Drake, after a veyage of two years and ten months, came to anchor, whence he had set out, in the harbour of Plymouth. The day of the week was Mon- day, though by the reckoning kept by the voyagers Sunday, and the 27th the true time ; the same loss of a day having befallen them which had puzzled Magellan's crew, — a mystery now clear to the most juvenile student in geography. The sate return of the expedition, the glory attending so magnificent an enterprise, and the immense mass of wealth brought home, made the arrival of Drake be hail- ed throughout England as an event of great national importance. Such in fact it was, as his success gave an incalculable impetus to the rapidly-increasing mari- time spirit of the country. The bravery, the exploits, and the wonderful adven- tures of Drake, immediately became the theme of every tongue. Courtiers patronised and poets praised him ; SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. $s esented the ; and it re- onsummate ark on this s, however, 1 suggested ;r maritime lonopoly of X the ship's iape — " the the circum- 3mpests or iccordingly :ugals most lere, Drake ^ledge, and le. Water nd oysters, d on trees oyster suf- he 26th of other land, s and ten |out, in the was Mon- voyagers |e loss of a ^lagellan's lie student [attending mass of te be hail- national |;ess gave ing mari- and, to complete his celebrity, envious detractors were not wanting, who with some plausibility, represented that England and Spain, though cherishing the bitterest natiori;il fintipathy, being still nominally at peace, his enterprises were at best but those of a splendid corsair ; and that his spoliation of the subjects of Spain must Srovoke reprisal on such merchants as had goods and ealings in that country. It was urged that, of all countries, a trading nation like England, should care- fully avoid offending in a kind which laid her open to speedy punishment, and must frustrate the advance- ment of her maritime prosperity. On the other hand, the friends and aciinirers of the navigator contended, that he of all men, who had been so deep a sufferer from their j)erfidy, was entitled to take the punishment of the Spaniards into his own hands ; and tnat his gal- lant enterprise, while it inspired foreign nations with a high opinion of the maritime talent and power of Eng- land, would at home excite the noblest emulation, — an effect which it already had, the island, from the one extreme to the other, being now inflamed with the ar- dour that his splendid achievements had kindled, and which was soon to be manifested in a series of actions emanating directly from his expedition. In the mean wliile Drake lost no time in repairing to court. Elizal) who with all her faults, nev^r favour- ed the despicable, was m..i(; purely the fountain of all favour and honour than ,iny preceding sovereign, and her personal regard more th< object ot imbition. Drake was graciously received, but not yet oix^ily counte- nanced. The queen permitted tlie first f(!rvours of both his admirers ancl enemies to abate before she openly declarcd her own sentiments. A show of cold- ness was also a necessary part of the fjubtle game she was still playing with Spain. The complaints of the Spaniard a ere violent and loud ; and the queen deemed it prudent to place the wealth brought home under sequestration till their claims should be investigated ; or, more correctly, till the complainers could be either baffled or wearied out it 56 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 4 in solicitation. It was the policy of Elizabeth to pro- tract the long-impending hostilities between the coun- tries, and among other means the plundered gold was employed. As a foretaste, or a bribe to purchase peace a little longer, several small sums were paid to the agent for Spanish claims ; but, when tired of the game of diplomacy, which the queen relished as much for the enjoyment of the play as the value of the stakes, she suddenly took the resolution of openly countenancing the daring navigator, whose boldness, discretion, and brilliant success, were so happily adapted to gain her favour. On the 4th of April, 1581, the queen went in state to dine on board the Golden Hind, now lying at Deptford ; and Drake, who naturally loved show and magnificence, spared no pains in furnishing a banquet worthy of his royal guest. After dinner the queen conferred upon him the honor of knighthood, — enhancing the value of the distinction by politely saying, " that his actions did him more honor than the title which she conferred." The queen also gave orders that his ship should be pre- served as a monument of the glory of the nation and of the illustrious commander. This was done, and when it would no longer hold together, a chair was made of one of the planks, and presented as a relic to the Univer- sity of Oxford.* On the day of the queen's visit, in compliment to her majesty's scholarship, a variety of Latin verses, composed by the scholars of Winchester College, were nailed to the mainmast, in which the praises of the ship and the queen were alternated and intermingled. The Golden Hind afterward became the theme of the muse of Cowley. One translation of a Latin epigram on the ship, we select from a multitude * The particulars of this " stately visit," would unduly swell the narrative. On this day Elizabeth, who, like King William IV., loved to be surrounded by her subjects, was attended in her progress to Deptford by an immense concourse of people, who crowded so thickly upon flie temporary bridge, or planks placed between the river's bank and the ship, that it gave way, and some hundreds fell into the water. This was an unlucky adventure, but no one was either killed or hurt, which the ready-witted princess attributed sole- ly to the good fort' tic of Drake. m '■%- leth tx) pro- 1 the coun- d gold was ;hase peace )aid to the of the game IS much for ! stakes, she intenancing retion, and to gain her t in state to t Deptford ; ignificence, rthy of his 3rred upon he value of actions did conferred." uld be pre- ition and of and when IS made of le Univer- visit, in variety of Vinchester which the nated and became islation of multitude SIR FRANCIS CRAKE. tJljSk <)f verses, as its quaintness is redeemed by its ele- gance :- The stars above will make thee known, If man were silent her" ; The Siin himself cannot forget Hid fellow-traveller. The reputation of Sir Francis Drake had now ob- tained that court-stamp which, without increasing value, gives currency. Though Elizabeth had so far tempo- rized as to sequestrate for a time the wealth brought liome, the Spanish complaints of the English sailing in the South Sea, she scornfully dismissed, — denying ** that, by the Bishop of Rome's donation, or any other right, the Spaniards were entitled to debar the subjects of other princes from these new countries ; the gift of what is another's constituting no valid right ; — that touching here and there, and naming a river or cape, could not give a proprietary title, nor hinder other na- tit)ns from trading or colonizing in those parts where the Spaniards had not planted settlements." One objec- tionable part of Drake's conduct thus obtained royal vindication ; and as the war, long impending, was no longer avoidable, his alleged depredations were forgot- ten even by his envious detractors, and his fame became as universal as it was high. Envy itself had ever been forced to acknowledge, not merely his maritime skill and genius for command, but the humanity and benevo- lence that marked his deahngs with the Indians, and the generosity with which he uniformly treated his captives of that nation of all others the most hateful to English- men, and in some respects the most injurious to himself. Hostilities with Spain, so long protracted by the poli- cy of Elizabeth, were now about to commence in good earnest ; and Drake may be said to have struck the first blow. War was not formally declared when he pro- jected an expedition in concert with Sir Philip Sidney ; the two most popular men of their time being to com- mand, the one the land, and the other the sea force. On the part of Sir Philip the design was abandoned at the express command of ihe queen, who required his servi- 6 #^-;, SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ces in the Netherlands, where he had already been usefully employed for the pubhc cause, and where, in the following year, he met his early and glorious death. Sir Francis Drake's armament consisted of twenty-five sail, of vvhich two vessels were queen's ships. His force amounted to two thousand three hundred seamen and soldiers. Under his command were several officers of experience and high reputation. His lieutenant- general was Christopher Carlile, his vice-admiral the celebrated navigator, Martin Frobisher ; and Captnin Francis Knollys, and other officers of celebrity, were among his coadjutors in an enterprise, the object of which was to unite public advantage with private emolument. The fleet stood at once for the coast of Spain, where Drake meditated a bold stroke at the enemy's naval force, and this without very rigid preliminary inquiry whether war had been declared or not. His demand to know why an embargo had been laid upon the goods of certain English merchants, was answered in terms so pacific, that finding it impossible to fasten a quarrel upon the Spaniards which would justify reprisal, tb fleet cruised from Sebastian's to Vigo, capturing somt. small tenders. They next stood for the Cape de Verd Islands, where, landing one thousand men in the night, Drake, with a handful of them, surprised and took St. Jago, which the inhabitants hastily abandoned. This was on the 17th of November, 1585, and the day of Elizabeth's accession, which was celebrated by the guns of the castle firing a salute, to which those of the fleet replied. The conquest had proved easy, but the booty was in proportion inconsiderable, consisting chief- ly of trifling merchandise, and the tawdry, worthless wares employed in trading with the Indians of the islands and on the shores of the continent of America. If there had been any treasure in the place, it was either carried away or effectually concealed ; and the threats of the invaders to burn and slay, unless the terms of ransom which they dictated were complied with, pro- duced no effect. The islanders seemed determined either to weary or to starve out the invaders ; and their SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 59 eady been I where, in ious death. Lwenty-five hips. His red seamen ;ral officers lieutenant- idmiral the dd Captain )rity, were ! object of th private ain, where my's naval ry inquiry demand to le goods of n terms so a quarrel pprisal, th iring somt. »e de Verd the night, d took St. ed. This he day of •d by the )se of the y, but the ing chief- worthless is of the America, as either e threats terms of ith, pro- Itermined ,nd their soon became no desirable possession, villaffc twelve miles in the interior, easy conquest On the 24th, a ,.....^^ - -. named St. Domingo, was taken ; but the islanders still kept aloof; and posting placards, denouncing the for- mer cowardice and cruelty of the Portuguese, and their present pusillanimity, the English prepared to depart. Then, for the first time, a force appeared hanging off and on, as if to annoy tlieir retreat. Burning the town, and every place within reach, the English re-embarked in good order, and stood for the West Indies. in paUiation of whatr^iy appear useless severity, it must be stated that, besiu^ t refusing the terms of ran- som offered them, the Portuguese had perpetrated the most wanton cruelty on an English boy who had strag- gled, and whose corpse was found by his countrymen, torn, disfigured, and dismembered, — as if he had rather fallen into the hands of the most ferocious tribe of canni- bals than among a Christian people. The islanders had also, five years before, murdered, under the pro- tection of a truce, the crew of a Bristol vessel com- manded by Captain William Hawkins. The vengeance which may afterward be taken by their countrymen forms a strong protection to a single ship's company, or to a weak crew on a distant coast ; and if there may not be strict equity, there is at least commendable policy in a commander showing that neither former kindness nor yet treachery to the people of his nation is either un- known or forgotten. While the fleet lay here, that malignant fever which proves the scourge of soldiers and seamen in these climes broke out with great inveteracy, and carried off between two and three hundred of the men. They next touched at St. Christopher's and Domini- ca, where they had a friendly interview with some of the aborigines, at which the toys and wares of St. Jago were liberally exchanged for tobacco and cassada. Attracted by the fame of " the brave city" of St. Do- mingo, one of the oldest and wealthiest of the Spanish settlements in the West Indies, it was determined to carry it. Drake's common plan of attack was simple and uniform : a party was landed in the night to make GO 8IR FRANCIS DRAKE. the assault from the land side, while the ships co-ope- rated from the water. On New-yeai*s day the English landed ten miles to the westward of the town, and, forming into two divisions, made the attack at opposite gates; and to save themselves from the guns of the cas- tle, rushed forward, sword in hand, pellmell, till accord- ing to agreement, they met in the market place in the centre of the town, and changed the fight of the Span- iards into precipitate retreat. Here they hastily barri- caded themselves, resolved to maintain their post, and confidently expecting an attack. But the Spaniards gave them little trouble. Struck with panic, they next night abandoned the castle to the invaders, and escaped by boats to the other side of the haven. The following day the English strengthened their position, planting the ordnance which they took within their trenches, — and, thus secured, held the place for a month, collecting what plunder was to be found, while they negotiated with the Spaniards for the ransom of the city. The terms were such that the inhabitants were unable to re- deem the town ; and burning and negotiation went on simultaneously and leisurely. Two hundred seamen, and as many soldiers forming their guard, were em- ployed daily in the work of destruction ; but the build- ings being lofty piles, substantially constructed of stone, their demoli<^"'>n proved a fatiguing duty to the men ; and after much labour, spent with little loss to the ene- my and no profit to themselves, the ransom of twenty- five thousand ducats was finally accepted for the safety of what remained of the city. The plunder obtained was very inconsiderable, for the size and imagined riches of the place. A little episode in the history of this enterprise against St. Domingo deserves notice, as it places the energetic character of Drake in a striking point of view. A negro boy, sent with a flag of truce to the leading people while the negotiation for ransom was pending, was met by some Spanish officers, who furiously struck at him, and aftenvard pierced him through with a horseman's spear. Drea dfully wounded as he was, the poor boy tried to crawl back to his master, and while relating the cruel I 1 hs co-ope- e Englisli town, and,^ at opposite of the cas- till accord- )lace in the fthe Span- stily barri- r post, and Spaniards , they next nd escaped e following 1, planting Tenches, — , collecting negotiated city. The able to re- in went on seamen, were em- the build- of stone, the men ; the ene- twenty- he safetj'^ obtained imagined S SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 9^ treatment he had received, he fell down and expired in the presence of Drake. The insult offered to his fla^ of truce, and the barbaroui^ treatment of the lad, roused the captain-general to the liighest pitch of indignation. He commanded the provost-marshal, with a guard, to carry two unfortunate monks, who had been made pris- oners, to the place where his flag was violated, there to be hann^ed. Another prisoner shared the same fate ; and a "message was sent to the Spaniards, announcing that until the persons guilty of this breach of the law of nations were given up, two Spanish prisoners should suffer daily. Next day the offenders were sent in ; and, to make their merited punishment the more ignominious and exemplary, their own countrymen were forced to become their executioners. Among other instances of Spanish boasting and vain- glory recorded by the historians of the voyage, is an account of an escutcheon of the arms of Spain, found in the town-hall of the city, on the lower part of which was a globe, over which was represented a horse ram- pant, or probably volant, with the legend Non sujicit orhis.* This vaunt gave great offence at this particular time to the national pride of the English, who told the negotiators, that should their queen be pleased resolutely to prosecute the war, instead of the whole globe not satisfying his ambition, Philip would find some diffi- culty in keeping that portion of it which he already pos- sessed. Their next attempt wns directed against Carthagena, which was bravely defended and gallantly carried, Carlile making the attack on the land side, while Drake's fleet presented itself before the town. The governor, Alonzo Bravo, was made prisoner ; and after holding the place for six weeks, and destroying many houses, the trifling ransom of eleven thousand ducats was ac- cepted for the preservation of the rest of the town. The Spaniards might have not got off on such easy terms, but that the fearful pest, the deadly bilious fever, which The whole world is not enough for us. 6» 62 SIR FRAXCIS DRAKE. has SO often proved fatal to English expeditions in the very same locaHty, now raged in the fleet, and com- pelled the commanders to revise their plans and lower their demands. About seven hundred men perished in this expedition of the calentura* alone, as the disease, since described by Smollet and Glover and others, was then named. Those who struggled through this fright- ful malady, if we may fully credit the early accounts, were even more to be pitied than those that sunk under the disease. Though they survived, it was with loss of strength, not soon if ever recovered ; and many suffered the decay of memory and impaired judgment ; so that, when a man began to talk foolishly and incoherently, it became a common phrase in the fleet to say that such a one had been seized with the calenture. The design of attempting Nombre de Dios and Pana- ma, " there to strike the stroke for treasure," of which they had hitherto been disappointed, was abandoned in a council of war ; and sailing by the coast of Florida, they burnt St. Helena and St. Augustin, two forts and small settlements of the Spaniards, and brought oft" from Virginia, Mr. Lane, the governor, with the remains of an unfortunate colony sent out under the auspices of Sir Walter Raleigh in the former year.f * The calenture, ague, bilious, and yellow fever, — for by all these names is the Carthagena fever known, — has never been more truly and vividly de- scribed than in Roderick Random, and in Smollett's account of the " Expe- dition against Carthsigena," where the sutferings of Drakes expedition were acted over again. In Raynal's History of the Indies, we nnd the same causes assumed for this fatal distemper to which it was attributed by Drake's company, the pestiferous night-dews of a climate where even the long-con- tinued ruins of the wet season never cooled the air, and where the night is :is hot as the day The men on watch were found peculiarly liable to its attacks. Though there is some difference of opinion about the causes of the disease, the symptoms were the same in 1585 as in our own day. " The disease," says Raynal, "manifests itself by vomitings, accompanied by so vio- lent a delirium, that the patient must be confined to prevent him from tearing himself to pieces. He otlen expires in the midst of these agitations, which seldom last above three or four days." He adds that the fever of Cartha- gena, like the small-pox and some other diseases, is never taken but once — a point, however, like many others, on which doctors differ in opinion. t The colony carried home at this time by Drake, with the tobacco which diey brought along with them, first, according to Camden, introduced the use of that commodity into Britain, where it now yields about £3,000,000 of yearly revenue. In Virginia they had learned the uses of the herb. It how- SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 63 ions in the , and com- and lower perished in he disease, )t,hers, was this fright- accounts, sunk under with loss of ny suffered it ; so that, herently, it that such a and Pana- " of which andoned in of Florida, o forts and rought oft' e remains Luspices of t II these names md vividly de- f the " Expe- pedition were nd the same ,ed by Drake's the iong-con- the night is ly hable to its the causes of day. "The ied by so vio- from tearing tions, which er of Cartha- Jn but once — [opinion. Ibacco which produced the ;3,000,000of lerb. It how- It was in July, 1586, before the armament returned, bringing two hundred brass and forty iron cannon, and about sixty thousand pounds sterling in prize-money, of which twenty thousand pounds sterling was divided amon, 66 SIR FRANCIS DRAKB. noblemen and gentlemen sailed. His ship had been crippled and separated from the fleet, and Howard, in hot pursuit, had passed it, imagining that it was aban- doned. There was on board a crew of four hundred and fifty persons; who, when summoned to surrender in the formidable name of Drake, attempted no resist- ance. Kissing the hand of his conqueror, Don Pedro said, they had resolved to die in battle, had they not ex- perienced the good fortune of falling.into the hands of one courteous and gentle, and generous to the vanquish- ed foe ; one whom it was doubtful whether his enemies had greater cause to admire and love for his valiant and prosperous exploits, or dread for his great wisdom and good fortune ; whom IMars, the god of war, and Nep- tune, the god of the sea, alike favoured. To m( ritthis high eulogium, Drake behaved with the utmost kindness and politeness to his involuntary guests, who were sent prisoners to England. Two years afterward he receiv- ed .£3500 for their ransom. In the ship 55,000 ducats were found, and liberally divided among the crew. The broken runnino; fight between the fleets was renewed from day to day, and from hour to hour, as the superior sailing of the light English vessels promised advantage, till the Spaniards were driven on that line of conduct which ended in the complete destruction of their mighty ai-mament. In the fight of the 29th, which was despe- rate on both sides, Drake's ship was pierced with forty sliot, two of which passed through his cabin. Of one hundred and thirty-four ships which left the coast of Spain only fifty-three returned. In the following year Drake, as admiral, commanded the fleet sent to restore Don Antonio of Portugal, while Sir John Norris led the land-forces. Differences arose between the commanders about the best mode of prose- cuting their joint enterprise. The failure of Norris' scheme gives probability to the assertion that the plan of operations suggested bj-- Drake would, if followed, have been successful. It is at least certain that the ex- pedition miscarried, which had never happened to any single-handed undertaking in which Drjike engaged. Don Antonio, taken out to be made a king by the prow- SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 67 had been toward, in was aban- ar hundred surrender d no resist- Don Pedro hey not ex- le hands of 3 vanquish- lis enemies vaUani and ^^isdom and , and Nep- 3 m( rit this St kindness ) were sent ] he receiv- 000 ducats crew. The IS renewed he superior advantage, of conduct leir mighty ,vas despe- with forty Of one coast of •mmanded gal, while nces arose B of prose- of Norris' t the plan followed, at the ex- ed to any engaged* ,he prow- ess of the English, returned as he went. Before the queen and council Drake fully justified his own share of the affair, and the confidence placed in his ability and skill remained undiminished. This was the first check that the fortunes of Drake had ever received, — and it would have been happy for him, it has been said, had he now withdrawn his stake. The principal and fatal UKATH OF SIK NICOLAS CMFFOIID. The Spanish towns, from whicli everything of value was taken away, were rather abandoned to the occupa- tion than taken by the 'arms of the Enghsh. In this way Santa Martha and Nombre de Dios fell into their hands with scarce a show of rcsistanc;c. They were 70 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. ( \ both burnt. On the 29th of December, two days after the capture of Nombre de Dios, Sir Thomas Baskerville, with seven hundred and fifty soldiers, attempted to make his way to Panama through the fatiguing and dan- gerous passes of the Isthmus of Darien, the Spaniards annoying his whole line of march by a desultory fire of musketry from the woods. At certain passes fortifica- tions had been thrown up to impede their progress ; and coming upon these unexpectedly, they were exposed to a sudden fire, by which many fell. About midway the design was abandoned, and the party turned back, still exposed in the retreat to the fire of the Spaniards from the woods. Destitute of provisions, and suffering great privation and fatigue, they returned to the ships depres- sed and disheartened. This last and most grievous of the train of disappointments that had followed Drake throughout an expedition from which the nation expect- ed so much, and wherein he had embarked much of his fortune and risked his high reputation, threw the admi- ral into a lingering fever, accompanied by a flux, under which he languished for three weeks. He expired while the fleet lay off Porto Bello. The death ot Ad- miral Drake took place on the 28th of January, 1(^96, and in his fifty-first year. His remains were placed in a leaden coffin, and committed to the deep with all the pomp attending naval obsequies. Uni^uccessful as his latest enterprises had been, his death was universally lamented by the nation. The tenderness; of pity was now mingled with admiration of the genius and valour of this great man, " whose memory will survive as long as the world lasts, which he first surrounded." Drake is described as low in stature, but extremely well made ; with a broad chest and a round compact head. His complexion was fair and sanguine ; his countenance open and cheerful, with large and lively eyes ; his beard full, and his hair of a light brown. The portrait prefixed to this life gives the idea of a man of that prompt and decided character which Sir Francis Drake discovered in every action of his fife. From the lowest point and rudiments of his art, Drake was a thorough-bred seaman, able in his own person to dis- SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. n charge every duty of a ship, even to attending the sick and dressing the wounded. In repairing and watering his ships, as readily as in what are esteemed higher offices, he at all times bore an active part ; and to his zealous superintendence and co-operatio . in these sub- ordinate duties, much of the facility and celerity of his movements, and of his consequent success, is to be at- tributed. The sciences connected with navigation, as they were then known, he thoroughly understood, and particularly that of astronomy. Whatever he attempt- ed on his own judgment, without being controlled by the opinions of others, he accomplished with success. He has been charged with ambition ; but it is well re- marked, that no man's ambition ever took a happier direction for his country. His example did more to ad- vance the maritime power and reputation of England than that of all the navigators who preceded him. He indicated or led the way to several new sources of trade, and opened the career of commercial prosperity which his countrymen are still pursuing. Among the many natural gifts of this lowly-born seaman, was a ready and graceful eloquence. He was fond of amassing wealth, but in its distribution was liberal and bountiful. Among other deeds of enlightened benevolence was his estab- lishment, in conjunction with Sir John JIawkins, of the CHEST at Chatham for the relief of aged or sick seamen, by the honourable means of their own early providence. Drake sat in two parliaments, — in the first for a Cornish borough, and in the next for the town of Plymouth in the thirty-fifth of Elizabeth. Though often described as a bachelor, it is ascertained that he married the daughter and sole heiress of Sir George Sydenham, of Coombe Sydenham in Devonshire, who survived him. He left no children, but bequeathed his landed estate to his nephew Francis Drake, afterward created a baronet by James the First. M THOMAS CAVENDISH, THE SECOND ENGLISH CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. .1;-?^ Thomas Cavendish the second Englishman that circum- navigated the globe, was of an ancient and honourable family of Suffolk, the ancestor of which had come into England with the Conqueror. From his residence near a maritime town he is said to have imbibed an early inclination to the sea. His father died while Cavendish was still a minor; and coming early into the possession of his patrimony he is report- ed to have squandered it *' in gallantry, and following the court," and to have been compelled to embrace the nobler pur- suits to which his subsequent years were devoted to redeem bis shattered fortunes. THOMAS CAVENDISH. 73 Though the relations of his voyages are ample and complete, very little is known of his personal history. In the year 1585, he accompanied Sir Richard Grenville's expedition to Vir- ginia, in a vessel equipped at his own expense. This voyage, undertaken to plant the unfortunate colony which was brought home by Sir Francis Drake in 1586, was both profitless and difficult; but it enabled Cavendish to obtain nautical experi- ence, and in its progress he had seen the Spanish West India settlements, and conversed with some of those who had ac- companied Drake into the South Sea. The youthful ambi- tion of Cavendish was thus roused to emulate the glory of so eminent a navigator in this rich and newly-opened field of en- terprise. Grenville's fleet, which sailed for Virginia in April, returned in October, and from the wrecks of his fortune, and the remains of his credit, Mr. Cavendish, in six months afterward, had equipped a small squadron for his projected voyage. While the carpenters were at work he procured every draught, map, chart, and history of former navigations that might be useful to him ; and having, through the patronage or recommenda- tion of Lord Hunsdon, procured the queen's commission, he sailed from Plymouth on the 21st of July, 1586. His light squadron consisted of the Desire, a vessel of one hundred and twenty tons burthen, in which he sailed himself as admiral and commander of the expedition ; the Content of sixty tons ; and the Hugh Gallant, a light bark of forty tons. A crew of one hundred and twenty -three soldiers, seamen, and ofKcers manned this little fleet, which was provided with every requisite for a long voyage, in latitudes with which the navigation of Drake had now made the English somewhat familiar. If so much interest is still awakened by the maritime under- takings of contemporary navigators, who set out in a familiar track under the guidance of former experience and observation, with the advantage of instruments nearly perfect, and with all appliances and means to boot, how much more must attach to the relation of the adventures of one who, like Cavendish, could have no hope or dependence save in his own capacity and courage ! The squadron first touched at Sierra Leone, where the con- duct of the young commander was not wholly blameless. On a Sunday part of the ships' company went on shore, and spent the day in dancing and amusing themselves with the friendly negroes, their secret object being to gain intelligence of a Por- tuguese vessel that lay in the harbour, and which Cavendish intended to capture. This was found impracticable, and next day the EngUsh landed to the number of seventy, and made 74 THOMAS CAVENDISH. ail attack on the town, of which they burnt one hundred and fifty houses, ahnost the whole number, and plundered right and left. It was but little that they found. The negroes fled at their landing, but on their retreat shot poisoned arrows at the marauders from the shelter of the woods. This African village is described as neatly built, enclosed by mud walls, and kept, both houses and streets, in the cleanest manner. The yards were paled in, and the town was altogether trim and comfortable, exhibiting signs of civilization, of which at this point the slave-trade subsequently destroyed every trace. A few days afterward a party of the sailors landed to wash linen ; and repeating the visit next day, a number of negroes lying in ambush in the woods nearly surprised and cut them off. A soldier died of a shot from a poisoned arrow ; though the case as described appears more like mortification of the parts than the effects of poison. Several of the men were wounded, but none mortally save the soldier. On the 3d of September, a party went some miles up the river in a boat, caught a store of fish, and gathered a supply of lemons for the fleet, which sailed on the 6th. No reason is assigned for the unprovoked de- vastation on this coast, save ** the bad dealing of negroes with all Christians.'* On the 16th of December the squadron made the coast of America, in 47^° S. The land, stretching west, was seen at the distance of six leagues, and next day the fleet anchored in a harbour in 48^ S. This harbour they named Port Desire, in honour of the admiral's ship. Seals were found here of enormous size, which in the forepart of their body resembled Uons ; their young was found delicate food, equal, to the taste of the seamen, to lamb or mutton. Sea-birds were also found in great plenty, of which the description given seems to apply to the penguin. In this excellent harbour the ships' bottoms were careened. On the 24th of December, Christmas-eve, a man and boy belonging to the Content went on shore to wash thir Unen, when they were suddenly surrounded and shot at by fifty or more Indians. Cavendish pursued with a small party, but the natives escaped. " They are as wild as ever was a buck," says an old voyager, " as they seldom or ever see any Christians." Their footprints were measured, and found to be eighteen inches in length. The squadron left Port Desire on the 28th, and halted at an island three leagues off, to cure and store the penguins that had been taken. On the 30th, standing to sea, they passed a rock about fifty miles from the harbour they had left, which resembled the Eddystone Rock near Plymouth. About the first day of the year they saw sev- eral capes, to which no names are given, and on the 6th, with- r '% tl THOMAS CAVENDISH. m indred and dered right legroes fled 1 arrows at his African i walls, and iner. The !r trim and ich at this 7 trace. A wash linen ; oes lying in era off. A gh the case s parts than Dundedjbut iptember, a It a store of rhich sailed ■OYoked de- egroes with he coast of ras seen at inchored in ort Desire, id here of resembled to the taste also found IS to apply )s' bottoms mas-eve, a re to wash shot at by nail party, ver was a r see any found to ort Desire ff, to cure the 30th, from the one Rock saw sev- 6th, with- out further preparation, entered Magellan's Straits, which the Spaniards had lately attempted to fortify and colonize. At twilight the squadron anchored near the first Angostura ; and in the night lights were observed on the north side of the strait, which were supposed to be signals. Recognition was made by lights from the ships, and a boat was sent off in the morn- ing, to which three men on the shore made signs by waving a handkerchief. These were part of the survivors of a wretched Spanish colony. The history of the misfortunes and sufferings of the first set- tlers in different parts of America would make one of the most melancholy volumes that ever was penned ; nor could any portion of it prove more heart-rending than that which should record the miseries of this colony, left by Pedro Sarmiento in the Straits of Magellan. It may be recollected, that on the appearance of Drake on the coast of Peru, this commander was despatched by the viceroy to intercept the daring interlo- per on his return by the straits. Sarmiento afterward bestow- ed much pains in examining the western shores of Patagonia and the coast of Chili, and the many inlets, labyrinths, and in- tricate channels of the islands and broken lands of Terra del Fuego, which, as he conjectured, must communicate with the Straits of Magellan by one or more passages. After a long time had thus been consumed fruitlessly he entered the straits, and passed through eastward in about a month, minutely ex- amining the coast on both sides. When this discoverer reach- ed Spain, his exaggerated statements, the desire of checking the progress of the EngHsh in this quarter, and an apprehen- sion that they were preparing to seize this master-key to the South Seas (the passage by the Cape of Good Hope being still monopolized by the Portuguese, and that by Cape Horn not yet discovered,) induced Phihp to listen to the proposals of Sarmiento, an enthusiast in the cause, and to colonize and fortify this important outlet of his American dominions. A powerful armament of twenty-three ships, with thirty-five hun- dred men, destined for different points of South America, was in the first place to establish the new colony. This expedi- tion, undertaken on so magnificent a scale, was from first to last unfortunate. While still on the coast of Spain, from which the fleet sailed on the 25th of September, 1581, five of the ships were wrecked in a violent gale, and eight hundred men per- ished. The whole fleet put back, and sailed a second time in December. Misfortunes followed in a thick train. Sickness thinned their numbers ; and at Rio Janeiro, where they win- tered, many of the intended settlers deserted. Some of the ships became leaky, the bottoms of others were attacked by 1 76 THOMAS CAVENDISH. r worms, and a large vessel, containing most of the stores of the colonists of the straits, sprung a leak at sea, and before assist- ance could be obtained went down, three hundred and thirty men and twenty of the settlers perishing in her. Three times was Sarmiento driven back to the Bra/ils before he was able to accomphshhis purpose; and it was February, 1584, before he at last arrived in the strait and was able to land the colo- nists. Nor did his ill fortune close here. His consort, Riviera, either wilfully abandoned him, or was forced from his anchor- age by stress of weather. He stood for Spain, carrying away the greater part of the remaining stores which were to sustain the people through the rigour of the winter of the south, which was now commencing, and until they were able to raise crops and obtain provisions. The foundation of a town was laid, which was named San Felipe ; and bastions and wooden edi- fices were constructed. Another city, named Nombre de Jesus, was commenced. These stations were in favourable points of the straits, and at the distance of about seventy miles from each other. In the mean while the southern winter set in with uncommon severity. In April snow fell incessantly for fifteen days. S n rmiento, who, after estabHshing the colonists at these two poll. , intended to go to Chili for provisions, was driven from his anchors in a gale, and forced to seek his own safety in the Brazils, leaving the settlers without a ship. He has been accused of intentionally abandoning this helpless colony, which he was the instrument of establishing, and of which he was also the governor. The accusation appears unjust, as he made many subsequent efforts for its relief, which his ill for- tune rendered abortive. The governors at the different settle- ments at length refused to afford further assistance to a project which had lost the royal favour; and in returning to Spain to solicit aid, Sarmiento was captured by three ships belonging to Sir Waller Raleigh, — luckily, in all probability, for himself, as the indignation of King Philip at the failure of so expensive and powerful an expedition, and at the misrepresentations of this officer, might not have been easily appeased. Of the wretched colonists, about whom neither old Spain nor her American settlements gave themselves any further trouble, many died of famine and cold during the first winter. The milder weather of the spring and summer allowed a short re- spite of misery, and afforded the hope of the return of Sarmien- to, or some ship with provisions and clothing. But the year wore away, and no vessel appeared, and the colonists at San Felipe, in their despair, contrived to build two boats, in which all that remained alive, fifty men and five women, embarked, with the hope of getting out of the straits. One of their boats 3 THOMAS CAVENDISH. 77 Stores of the before assist- jd and thirty Three times he was able 1584, before nd the colo- jort, Riviera, 1 his anchor- rrying away re to sustain south, which J raise crops vn was laid, wooden edi- bre de Jesus, ible points of miles from er set in with :ly for fifteen lists at these was driven i own safety ip. He has >less colony, of which he njust, as he his ill for- 'erent settle- to a project to Spain to )elonging to himself, as expensive Bntations of d. Of the lin nor her er trouble, nter. The a short re- if Sarmien- ut the year ists at San in which embarked, heir boats ■M was wrecked, and the design was abandoned, as there were no seamen among their number, nor anyone capable of conduct- ing the perilous navigation. Their crops all failed ; the na- tives molested them ; and out of four hundred men and thirty women landed by Sarmiento, only fifteen men and three wo- men survived when Mr. Cavendish entered the straits. In San Felipe many lay dead in their houses and in their clothes, the survivors not having strength to bury them ; and along the shores, where these miserable beings wandered, trying to pick up a few shellfish or herbs, they often came upon the body of a deceased companion who had perished of famine, or of the diseases caused by extreme want. It was, as has been said, part of these forlorn wanderers whom Cavendish saw on the morning after he entered the straits. A passage to Peru was offered them, but they at first hesitated to trust the English heretics ; though afterward, when willing to accept the generous offer, their resolution came too late ; and before they could be mustered, a fair wind offering. Cavendish sailed on, having tantalized these wretched Span- iards with hopes which the safety of his own crew in this pre- carious navigation, and the success of his expedition, did not permit him to fulfil. The offer had likewise been made in ignorance of their numbers. If Cavendish be blamed for abandoning these wretched victims to their fate, what shall be said of the nation which, having sent out this colony, left it to perish of famine and cold ! One Spaniard was brought off, named Tome' Hernandez, who became the historian of the miserable colony of the straits. The squadron of Cavendish, after passing both the Angos- turas, as the Spaniards named the narrowest points o/ the straits, anchored first at the island of Santa Magdalena, where in two hours they killed and salted two pipes full of penguins ; and afterward at San Felipe, the now desolate station of the Spanish colonists, some of whom the English found still lying in their houses, " where they had died hke dogs." Here they brought on board six pieces of ordnance which the settlers had buried. This place Cavendish named Port Famine ; it was found to be in 53^ S. On the 22d a few natives were seen ; but the Spaniard, Hernandez, cautioned the EngUsh against all intercourse, representing them as a treacherous people, — a character which European knives and swords seen in then* possession, converted into darts, confirmed; and when they again approached. Cavendish carried his precautions to so ex- travagant a length as to order a discharge of muskets, by which many of them were killed, and the rest took to flight, certainly not corrected of their bad propensities by this harsh 78 THOMAS CAVENDISH. I<\ discipline. They were represented as cannibals, who had preyed upon the Spanish colonists, and this excused all wrong. For the next three weeks the fleet lay in a sheltered port, unable to enter the South Sea from a continuance of strong westerly wind ; but on the 24th of February, after a favourable though a tedious passage, they finally emerged from the straits. To the south was a fair high cape with a point of low land ad- joining it,— on the other side several islands with much broken ground around them, at about six leagues off from the main- land. On the Ist of March the stormy Spirit of the Straits, which no fleet ever wholly escaped, overtook Cavendish ; and the Hugh Gallant was separated from the larger vessels, one of which was found so leaky that the crew were completely ex- hausted in working the pumps for three days and nights with- out ceasing. On the 15th the Hugh Gallant rejoined her consorts at the Isle of Mocha, on the coast of Chili : they were here taken for Spaniards, and landing on the main experienced but a rough reception from the Indians, who bore no good-will to the natives of Spain. But a similar mistake sometimes operated to their advantage ; and next day, when the captain with a party of seventy men landed at the island of Santa Ma- ria, they were received as Spaniards, with all kindness and humility, by the principal people of the island ; and a store of wheat, barley, and potatoes, ready prepared, and presumed by the voyagers to be a tribute to the conquerors, was unscrupu- lously appropriated. To this the islanders added presents of hogs, dried dogfish, fowls, and maize, and received in return an entertainment on board the captain's ship. These Indians are represented as being in such subjection, that not one of them durst eat a hen or hog of his own rearing, all being sa- cred to their taskmasters, who had, however, made the whole of the islanders Christians. When they came to understand that their guests were not Spaniards, it was believed that they attempted to invite them to an assault upon their enslavers ; but for want of an interpreter their meaning was imperfectly comprehended. The squadron, thus refreshed at the expense of the Spaniards, sailed on the 18th, but overshot Valparaiso, at which place they intended to halt. On the 30th they an- chored in the Bay of Quintero, seven leagues to the north of Valparaiso. A herdsman asleep on a hill-side awaking, and perceiving three strange ships in the bay, caught a horse gra- zing beside him, and fled to spread the alarm. Cavendish, unable to prevent this untoward movement, landed with a party of thirty men, and Hernandez, the Spaniard whom he had brought from the straits, and who made strong protesta- tion of fidelity. Three armed horsemen appeared, as if come 'f-'*^ ■<* THOMAS CAVENDISH. 79 to reconnoitre. With these Hernandez conferred, and report- ed that they agreed to furnish as much provision as the Eng- lish required. A second time the interpreter was despatched to a conference ; but on this occasion, forgetting all his vows of fidelity to his benefactors, he leaped up behind one of his countrymen, and they sat off at a round gallop, leaving Cav- endish to execrate Spanish bad faith. The English filled some of their water casks, and attempted in vain to obtain a shot at the wild cattle, which were seen grazing in great herds. Next day a party o^flrom fifty to sixty marched into the interi- or in the hope of discovering some Spanish settlement They did not see one human being, native nor European, though they travelled till arrested by the mountains. The country was fruitful and well watered with rivulets, and abounded in herds of cattle and horses, and with hares, rabbits, and many kinds of wild-fowl. They also saw numerous wild dogs. The party did not sleep on shore. The boats were sent next day for water, which was found a quarter of a mile from the beich. , While the seamen were employed in filling the casks, ^ley |were suddenly surprised by a party of two hundred horsemen, rho came pouncing down upon them from the heights, and But off twelve of the party, some of whom were killed, and the »st made prisoners. The remainder were rescued by the >ldiers, who ran from the rocks to support their unsuspecting )mrades, and killed twenty-four of the Spaniards. Notwith- standing this serious misadventure. Cavendish, keeping strict fwatch and ward, remained here till the watering was comple- ted. Of the nine prisoners snatched off in this affray, it was I aflerward learned that six were executed at Santiago as pirates, though they sailed with the queen's commission, and though the nation to which they belonged was at open war with Spain. The discipUne which the Spaniards had taught the natives was again found of use to our navigators, who, after leaving Quintero, came on the 15th to Morro Moreno, or the Brown Mountain, where the Indians, on their landing, met them with loads of wood and water, which they had carried on their backs down the rocks. These siave» of the Spaniards were found to be a very degraded race, almost at the lowest point in the scale of civiUzation. Thtir dwellings consisted of a few sticks placed across two stakes stuck in the ground, on which a few boughs were laid. Skins spread on the floor gave a higher idea of comfort. Their food consisted of raw putrid fish ; yet their fishing-canoes were constructed with consider- able ingenuity. They were made of skins "like i^ladders." Each boat consisted of two of these skins, which were inflated by means of quille, and sewed or laced together with gut, so 80 TIIOMAH CAVIJNlilHII. r H\ V 5*^ i\n to bo perfjM'tly wator-tijjiit. In thoBo they fi8luul, payinjr lar^«< ti'ilMit«« of tlu^ir HpoilM to their coiiqiicroi'H. WItrii nuy Olio (liod, ills boWH and arrowH, raiiocH, and all \m [tvrmnuil proprrty, wrro biiriod alon^ with liitu, an the l'iii)>;liHli vcritiod by op(>iiiiii>- a ^ravo. Oil tlii^ 'iUd a VOM80I, with a car^;o of SpaniHli wiiio, wnH captured near Ariea, and also a small bark, the crow of which C8capcd ill their boat. This vessel was pcrinanently added to the stpiadi'on, and named the (icor^e. Another lar^e shi|t, captured in the road of Arica, proved but a worthh^ss prize, the car^o having liecn previously taken away, and the ship de- serted by the crew. A design of landing; and Mtonninjjf thn town was abandoned, as, before the stpiadron could be inus- tered, the Spaniards were apprized of their danger, u. d pre- pared to stand on the defensive. A third vessel was taken close by the town ; and the English sipiadron and the butte- ries even exclian«r(>d a few harmless shots; aller which (Javeii- dish, in hopes of relieving some of the I'iii^lish |»risoners inadr an attack, had th« pnnhMKM! not to allow his men to encumiber thc'msidves with much spoil on tlieir return to the ships. 'J'he town, which wuh re^riiliirlv hnilt un i very ch!an,cmiaisted of two humlred Ikuimuh. ItAvas burnt to the f^round, with floods to tin; value of live or six thousand pounds. A ship in the harlxmr was also burnt, and the tleet held a course northward, and anchorisd at the island of Puna, in a ^ood harbour. A Spanish sloop of two hundred and fifty tons burthen, which they found liere, wum sunk. They hiiuhul forthwith at the dwelliufr of tin; cacique, who was found living in a styh; of elegance and even nniguiti- cence rarely seen amon^ the native chiefs. His house stood near the town, by the water's edj^e, and contained many Imnd- 8ome apartments, with verandas commandin|r fine prospects Beawanl and landward. The chief had married a b(;autiful if Spanish woman, who was regarded as the queen of th(! island. } She never set her foot upmi the {^round, holding it " too low a thing for her," but was carried abroad on men's shoul- , ders in a sort of palanquin, with a canopy to shelter her from the sun and wind, and attended by native; ladies ami tin; prin- cipal men of the island. Thecacicpie and his lady H(;d on the first approach of the English, carrying with them 100,000 crowns, which, from the information of a captive scout, were ascertain(!d to have been in their j)ossession. Induced by the information of the Indian captive, ('av(!ndish landed on the main with an armed party, intending to surprise tin; fugitives; but they once more fled, leaving the nu'at roasting at their fires, and their trtiasures c(Mild not be tliscov(;r.'d. In a small neighbouring island tin; <;acique had previously for safety de- posited his most valual)le fiiniitnre and goods, consisting of hangings of Cordovan leath<;r, richly paiiited and gilded, with the ta('kling of ships, nails, spikes, &»•., of which the Knglish took a large supply. At Puna sail-cloth from sea-grass was manufactured for the use of the ships in tin; South Sea. The island was about the size of tin; Isle of Wight, and contained several towns, — the principal one, near which was the caciciue'u 8 r I m If* ..i; m f' l,i 82 THOMAS CAVENDISH. palace, consisted of two hundred houses, with a large church. This the Enghsh burnt down, carrying away the bells. The Indian chief of Puna had been baptized previous to his marriage, and the Indians were all oblijred to attend mass. Adjoining the dwelling of the cacique was a fine garden laid out in the European style, Avith a fountain. In it were cotton- plants, fig-trees, pomegranates, and many varieties of herbs and fruits. An orc'iard, with lemons, oranges, &c., ornament- ed the other side of this pleasant dwelling, the under part of which consisted of a large hall, in which goods of all kinds were promiscuously stored. Cattle and poultry were seen in great abundance, with pigeons, turkey;^, and ducks of unusual size. Though the general, both from personal observation and report, was aware that a force was to be sent against him from Guayaquil, he hauled up his ship to have her bottom cleaned, keeping vigilant watch in the chief's house, where the English had estabhshed their head-quarters. The ship was again afloat, and the squadron about to sail, when, by one of those mischances which prove the danger of indulging for a single moment in false security, the English suffered a severe loss. On the 2d of June, before weighinj; anchor, a party were permitted to straggle about the town to amuse themselves and forage for provisions. Thus scattered, they were suddenly assailed in detached groups by a hundred armed Spaniards ; and of the twenty thus dispersed, seven were killed, three made ])risoners, and two drowne*!, while eight escaped. Forty-six Spaniards and Indians fell in this skirmish. Cavendish immediately landed with an armed band, drove the Spanish soldiers liom the town, and burnt it completely down, together with four ships then building. He also destroyed the gardens and orchard Persisting in main- taining his ground, Cavendish next day laid up the other shij) to be careened, and did not sail till the 5th, when lliey went to Rio Dolce, where they watered. Here tliey sunk the Hugh Gallant, all the hands being now required for the other vesself. They also s.cnt on shore their Indian prisoners, and, without touching at any other land, held a northerly course for nearly a month. On the 9th of July, they captured a new ship of one hundred and twenty tons, which, first taking away her ro])es and sailn, they inmiediately burnt. In this vessel was a Frenchman, Michael Saneius, wlu) gave mforniation of the Manilla ship tlu'n expected from the Philippines. This was a prize worth looking after ; and they were so far fortunate an to intercept a small bark sent to give her warning. On the ti7th, by daybreak, they entered the harbour of (iuatuico, and burnt the town, the church, and cuetora-house, in which was THOMAS CAVENDISH. rge church, lis. previous to ttend mass, garden laid rere cotton- !s of herbs , ornamcnt- ider part of f all kinds ere seen in of unusual observation igainst hinv lier bottom ^, where the bout to sail. i(^ danger (tf he Knglisli •e weighinjr he town to IS scattered, T a hundred rsed, seven vned, while fell in this an armed ind burnt it ilding. He ngin main- ^ other ship l\ey went to the Ilugli ler vessels. id, without for nearly w ship of away her vessel was ition of the This was a brtunate as On the ituleo, and vhich was •Jif h % 4 found a quantity of die-stuffs and cocoas. Some trifling ad- ventures marked the following day, in which they by mistake over-sailed Acapulco. Landing at Puerto de Navidad, they Imrnt two ships, each of two hundred tons, then on the stocks, and made prisoner of a mulatto who carried letters of advice of their progress along the coast of New Gallicia. In this manner they proceeded northward, often landing small detach- ments, and spreading alaruj along the shores. On the 8th they <;anie into the bay of Chacalla, (supposed Compostella,) de- scribed as being eighteen leagues froui Cape d(! los Corrientes, and to a harlwur presumed to be that known in modern ge- ography as San IJlas. Next morning an officer with forty men, and Michael Hancius as their conductor, marched two leagues into the interior, by "a most villanous and desert path through the woods and wilderness," and came to a place where they found three Spanish families, a carpenter of the same nation, a Portuguese, and a few Indians. Their ordinary mod(! of proceeding on such occasions is told in few words: — *' We bound them all, and made them to come to the seaside with us." The general, however, set the women free ; and on their bringing to the ships a supply of pine-apples, lemons, and orang<'s, allowed their husbands to depart, as there was •nothing to be obtained from them. The carpenter and the Portuguese were kept, and next day the fleet sailed. On the l*2th of Septendier they reached tlie isle of St. Andrew, where they laid in a store of wood and of dried and salted wild-fowl. Seals were also found, and iguanas, — a species " of serpent with four feet and a long sharp tail, strange to them who have not seen them," but which, nevertheless, made very palatable food to ihe kfcn appetites of seamen. In their frequent exi- gencies these hardy voyagers never scrupl(!d to act upon the opinion of the old Syrneron chief in the Isthmus of Darien. When Drake, with the natural disgust of an Enghshman, shf)wed s(une tokens of aversion to otter's flesh, the Indian is reported to have thus addressed him : — "Are you a warrior, and in want, and yet doubt if that be food which hath blood in It I" 1' On the 24th of September they put into the Bay of Mazat- lan, and at an island a league to tlie northward careened the ships, new-built the pinnace, and by digging deep in the sands found water, of which they stood much in need ; aV without this seasonable supply they must have been compeftcd to turn back, and thus might have missed their prey. The s(|uadron sailed from this island un the night of the 9th of October for the Cape of St. Lucas, which was made on the 14tli. Here they lay in wait for the anticipated prize, cruising 84 THOMAS CAVENDISH. Ir I J about the headland, without going far off, till the 4th of No- vember, on the morning of which dny the trumpeter from the masthead descried a sail bearing in for the cape. Chase was immediately given, and continued for some hours, when the English came up with the Santa Anna, gave her a broadside, poured in a volley of musketry, and prepared to board. The attempt was bravely repelled by the Spaniards, who courage- ously repulsed the assailants with the loss of two men killed and five wounded. The most formidable weapons of the Spaniards were stones, which, from behind their protecting barricades, they hurled upon the boarders. *' But we new- trimmed our sails," says the early relation, " and fitted every man his furniture, and gave them a fresh encounter with otir great ordnance, and also with our small shot, raking them through and through, to the killing and wounding many of their men. Their captain still, like a valiant man, with his company stood very stoutly into his close fights, not yielding as yet. Our general, encouraging his men afresh with the whole voice of trumpets, gave them the other encounter Avith our great ordnance and all our small shot, to the great discour- agement of our enemies, raking them through in divers places, kilUng and wounding many of their men. They being thus discouraged and spoiled, and their ship being in hazard of sinking by reason of the great shot which were made, whereof some were under water, within five or six hours' fight sent out a flag of truce and parleyed for mercy, desiring our general to save their lives and to take their goods, and that the}' would presently yield. Our general of his goodness promised them mercy, and called them to strike their sails, and to hoise out their boat, and come on board; which news they were full glad to hear of, and presently struck their sails, hoisted out their boat, and one of their chief merchants came on board u;ito our general, and, falling down upon his knees, offered to have kissed our general's feet, and craved mercy. Our general graciously pardoned both him and the rest, upon promise of their true dealing with Inm and his company concerning such riches as were in the ship ; and sent for their captain and pilot, who at their coming used the like duty and rt, ronce as the former did. The general, out of his great mercy and hu- manity, promised their lives and good usage." The Santa Anna was a prize worth the tr-'lc bestowed in securing her. She was of seven hundred tons burden, and the property of the King of Spain. Besides a rich cargo of silks, satins, damasks, wine, preserved fruit, musk, &.c., ,here were on board 122,000 pesos in gold. The provison niade for the passengers was also of the best kind, and afforded luxuries to M w THOMAS CAVFNDISH. 85 4th of No- )r from the Chase was , when the . broadside, )ard. The courage- men killed ons of the • protecting Lit we new- fitted every ter with oiir aking them ig many of n, with his lot yielding jh with the ounter with Bat discour- vers places, being thus 1 hazard of de, whereof rht sent out general to they would nised them hoise out re full glad out their rd unto our -ed to have ur general >roniise of rning such aptein and •roncc as cy and hu- Bstowed in n, and the o of silks, hero werr de for til*! uxuries to 1 the EnHish ships' companies to which they had hitherto been strangers. Cavendish carried his prize into a bay within Cape Lucas, named by the Spaniards Aguada Segura, or The Safe AVatering-placo, where lie landed the crew and passengers to the number of a hundred and ninety persons, among whom were some females. The captain-general deemed it impolitic to allow these per- sons to proceed direct to New Spain, and the place on which he landed them aftbrded water, wood, fish, fowl, and abun- dance of hares and rabbits. He presented them with part of the ship's stores, with wine, and with the sails of their dis- mantled vessel, to construct tents for their shelter. He also gave the seamen weapons for their defence against the natives, and planks, of which they might build a bark to convey the whole party to the settlements. Among the passengers by the Santa Anna were two lads, natives of Japan, who could both read and write their own language, and three boys from Manilla. These, with a Por- tuguese who had been in Canton, the Philippines, and the islands of Japan, Cavendish carried with him, and also a Spanish pilot. The division of the spoils occasioned great discontent, par- ticularly among the crew of the vice-admiral's ship, who im- agined that Cavendish favoured the company of the Desire. But the dissatisfaction was apparently suppressed, and by the 17tli of November, "the queen's day," all business being com- pleted, a few hours were d( voted by the loyal English to gayety and festivity ; and a discharge of the great guns and a display of fireworks proclaimed to these lonely shores the glory of Elizabeth of England. As the completion of their rejoic- ing, the Santa Anna, with all of her goods that could not be stoM'ed into the English ships, was set on fire, and left burn- ing; and filing a parting salute to the deserted Spaniards, the Desire and the Content bore away for England, which, before they could again arrive at, so much of the circumference of the globe must be traversed. IJefore coming to St. Lucas, the George, the Spanish prize, had been abandoned ; and now, in coming out of the bay, the Content lagged astern, and was never again seen by her consort. The Desire, thus left alone, as the Golden Him! had been Ix'fore her, holding her solitary course across the Pacific, on the 3d of January, li>S8, came in sight of Guahan, one of the Ladrones. For fi)rty-five days the English had enjoyed fair winds, and had sailed a distance roughly estimated at between seventeen'and eighteen hundred leagues. When within five or or six miles of (iuuhan, fifty or more cunoes full of people came 8* m TIIOMAH OAVENDISII. oiFtomeet the ship, brinp^in^tlio rninmoditirs with which tlu>y were now in the habit of supplyiiii^thoSpunianls^nitinrly, fish, potatoe8,phuitniiiH, niul cocoas, whicli were cxrhaufrctl tor pieces of iron. This tratfic was phed so eap^erly that it hiH'aine troiihh>- some ; and Cavendish, who was never distiiitain of the h along the of gold, as and, if his lassed near Fever now been ver^- ' these had luted to the le illness of ed through :he 5th an- A negro some na- interpreter, ere inform- days after- eggs, fresh more con- and were ral a pres- g as aqua- led official, four days, dish could nish prize lish musi- nained on d oft', and imen, na- , and that he Portu- nd, where (ther mer- nerchants i -t i A THOMAS CAVENDISH. afterward visited the ship, eager to obtain news of their coun- try and of Don Antonio their prince. They were informed that he was then in England, honourably entertained by the queen ; and were delighted to hear of the havoc Cavendish had made among the Spanish shipping in the South Sea, as he told them that he was " warring upon them (the Spaniards,) under the King of Portugal." The Europeans who met on this distant coast were mutually delighted with their short in- tercourse. Cavendish banqueted the Portuguese merchants, and entertained them with music as well as with political in- telligence ; and to him they described the riches of Java, and the most remarkable customs observed by the natives. The reigning king or rajah was named Bolamboam, and was re- ported to be one hundred and fifty years of age. He was held in great veneration by his subjects, none of whom durst trade with any nation without his license under pain of death. The old king had a hundred wives ; and his son fifty. In Bolam- boam the old voyagers give a perfect picture of an absolute prince. The Javans paid him unlimited obedience. What- ever he commanded, be the undertaking ever so dangerous or desperate, no one durst shrink from executing it; and their heads were the forfeit of their failure. They were " the bravest race in the south-eastern parts of the globe, never fearing death." The men were naked, and dark in colour; but the women were partly clothed, and in complexion much fairer. When the king died his body was burned, and the ashes were preserved. Five days afterward his queen, or principal wife, threw a ball from her with which she was provided, and wherever it ran thither all the wives repaired. Each turned her face eastward, — and, with a dagger as sharp as a razor, stabbed herself to the heart, and, bathed in her own blood, fell upon her face, and thus died. " This thing," we are assured, " is as true as it may seem to any hearer to be strange." The Portuguese factors, before parting with Cavendish, proposed that their acknowledged king, Don Antonio, should come out, and here found an empire, which should comprehend the Mo- luccas, Ceylon, China, and the Philippines. They were as- sured that all the natives of these countries would declare for him. A kind reception was also promised to the English at their return ; and Cavendish, having fully satisfied them for the supplies furnished to his ship, fired a parting salute of three guns, and on the 16th of March sailed for the Cape of Good Hope. The rest of this month and the month of April were spent " in traversing that mighty and vast sea between the island of Java and the main of Africa, observing the heavens, the Cro- 90 THOMAS CAVENDISH. "% H 1 Iff 1 >'[ siers or South Pole, the other stars, and the fowls, which arc marks unto seamen ; fair weather, foul weather, approaching of lands or islands, the winds, tempests, the rains and thun- ders, with the alteration of the tides and currents." On the 10th of May a storm arose, and they were afterward becalmed; and, in the thick hazy weather of the calm, mistook Cape False for the Cape of Good Hope, which they passed on tiic 16th, having run eighteen hundred and fifty leagues in nine weeks. On the 8th of June the island of St. Helena was seen, and on the yth they anchored in the harbour. The description of this station, so important to navigators, would apply with per- fect accuracy even at this day, so far as regards external ap- pearance or the natural productions of that delicious resting- place, of which at that time the Portuguese still enjoyed sole possession. They had now held this island for upwards of eighty years; and, though it had never been regularly coloni- zed, they had done much to store it with every thing necessa- ry to the refreshment of seamen on a long voyage. Already it abounded in all sorts of herbs, and in delicious fruits. Par- tridges, pheasants, turkeys, goats, and wild hogs were also ob- tained in abundance. At St. Helena Cavendish remained till the 20th, cleaning the ship, and obtaining refreshments, when the Desire once more got under way for England. About the end of August they passed the Azores, and on the 3d of September met a Flemish hulk from Lisbon, which informed them of the defeat of the Spanish Armada, to their " great rejoicing." In the channel they were overtaken by the same terrible tempest that made such havoc among the Spanish ships which were driven round the coast of Ireland and to the north of Scotland ; but were so fortunate as to complete the third circumnavigation of the globe at Plymouth on the 9th of September, 1588, — two years and fifty days from the time they had left the same har- bour, and in a considerably shorter time than either Drake or Magellan had made the same voyage. Very copious nautical notes and remarks on this voyage were published by Mr. Thomas Fuller of Ipswich, the sailing- master of the Desire. They must have been of great value at the time, but have been superseded by more modern charts, in forming which, though the observations may not be more ac- curate, the navigators have had the advantage of more perfect instruments. The only geographical discovery made by Cav- endish in this navigation was Port Desire, on the Patagonian coast, the landmarks of which Fuller has accurately described, i THOMAS CAVENDISH. 91 8, which arc approaching IS and thun- 8." On the d becalmed; istook Cape assed on the ucs in nine as seen, and escription of >ly with per- Dxternal ap- ious restin^- injoyed sole upwards of larly coloni- ng neccssa- Already it ruits. Par- '^ere also oh- th, cleaning Desire once 1 of August nber met a f the defeat ?." In the impest that vere driven >tland ; but LVigation of 588,— two same har- Drake or lis voyage the sailing- at value at charts, in more ac- )re perfect ie by Cav- atagonian described, ">$ though it has frequently been made the subject of dispute among modern voyagers. The fame of the exploits of Cavendish, and of the great wealth which he had brought home, " enough to buy a fair earldom," almost rivalled the accounts of Drake's wonderful voyage. Among other rumours it was said, that when he en- tered'^the harbour of Plymouth his sails were all of silk. In the tempest which overtook them in the channel the sails were lost; and it is probable that Cavendish might have been com- pelled to employ some of his rich Indian damasks in the home- ly office of rigging his vessel; though it is conjectured, >yith more feasibility, that his new suit of sails were canvass fabrica- ted of the silk-grass used in the South Seas, which, being very- lustrous, might easily be mistaken for silk. The earliest leisure of Cavendish was employed in writing to his patron. Lord Hunsdon, giving an account of his pros- perous expedition. Whatever blame may in a more enlight- ened age be imputed to this navigator for the wanton outrages committed on tlie Spanish settlements and on the subjects of Spain, he appears to have thought himself entitled to credit for their performance. Instead, therefore, of trying to conceal these deeds, in setting forth his services for her majesty, he makes them his boast ; and doubtless they were highly esteem- ed. No better recapitulation of the events of this celebrated voyage can be found than that contained in his letter to Lord Hunsdon. " It hath pleased Almighty God," says the writer, " to sufi'er me to circumpass the whole globe of the world, en- tering in at the Strait of Magellan, and returning by the Cape de Buena Esperan^a* ; in which voyage I have either discov- ered or brought certain intelligence of all the rich places of the world which were ever discovered by any Christian. I navigated along the coast of Chili, Peru, and New Spain, where I made great spoils. I burnt and sunk nineteen sails of ships small and great. All the villages and towns that ever I landed at I burned and spoiled. And had I not been discov- ered upon the coast, I had taken great quantity of treasure. The matter of most profit unto me was a great ship of the king's which I took at California ; which ship came from the Philip- pines, being one of the richest of merchandise that ever passed those seas From the Cape of California, being the utter- most part of all New Spain, I navigated to the islands of the Philippines, hard upon the coast of China, of which country I have brought such intelligence as hath not been heard of in • Cape of Good Hope. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 III I.I 1.25 ■tt|21 lU ^ b£ 12.0 ■1Mb U il.6 I ^ ^ ^;; '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation n VOTiT MAIN STMIT ^VP.UTn,N.Y. 14SM ( 71* ) •72-4503 SQ THOMAS CAVENDISH. these parts : the stateliness and riches of which I fear to mnke report of, lest I should not be credited I found out by the way homeward the island of Santa Helena, where the Portu- guese used to relieve themselves ; and from that island God hath suffered me to return into England. All which services, with myself, I humbly prostrate at her roajesty^s feet, desiring the Almighty long to continue her reign among us; for at this day she is the most famous and victorious princess that liveth in the world." The second and final expedition of Cavendish to the South Seas was as remarkable for ill fortune as his first voyage had been distinguished by uninterrupted prosperity. This fortu- nate voyage, however, which gave such strong confirmation to the hopes excited by the adventure of Drake, encouraged many to a similar attempt, and during the two years following his return several expeditions were fitted out from England, though none of them proved successful. In tiiree years after his return, Cavendish, having, accord- ing to some accounts, spent the greater part of the riches he had acquired in the South Sea, planned an expedition for China, by Magellan*s Stiaits, and upon an extensive scale. It is asserted, with as much probability, that his wealth was laid out in equipping the new squadron, with which he put to sea on the 26th of August, 1591. It consisted of ** three tall ships" and two barks. As admiral of the fleet. Cavendish sailed in the Leicester galleon ; and his old ship, the Desire, was commanded by the celebrated pilot, navigator, and fortu- nate discoverer. Captain John Davis. The Roebuck, com- manded by Mr. Cook, the Black Pinnace, and a small bark named the Dainty, which belonged to Mr. Adrian Gilbert, a gentleman of Devonshire, who had been among the promoters of the discovery of the North-west Passage, completed the fleet. The two Japanese youths captured in the Acapulco ship on the former voyage accompanied Cavendish in this. Under the equinoctial line they were becalmed for twenty- seven days, burning beneath a hot sun, and exposed to the deadly night vapours, which threw many of the men into the scurvy. Their first capture was p. Portuguese vessel, on the 2d of December, off the coast of Brazil. It was laden with sugor, small wares, and slaves. On the 5th they pillaged Placenzia, a small Portuguese set- tlement ; and on the 16th siirprised the town of Santos, where the inhabitants were at muss when the party landed. Though Cavendish, both from principle and from natural disposition, never lost an opportunity of spoiling the enemy, the object of this attack was to obtoin provisions ; but this design, from the '$ THOMAS CAVENDISH. 93 negligence of the captain of the Roebuck was completely finis- ■• trated. The Indians carried every thing away; and next day the prisoners in the church were either set free or contrived to escape, four old men being retained as hostages till the SHp* phes came in. They never appeared ; and the consequence of mismanagement and delay was, that in lying five weeks be« fore this place the provisions were wasted which should have sustained them in passing the straits, and the voyage was de- layed, by this and other causes, till they found themselves, in the beginning of the southern winter, distant from the straits, and short of stores. On the 22d of January they left Santos, burnt St. Vincent on the 23d, and next day bore for the Straits of Magellan ; Port Desire, which Cavendish had discovered on his former voyage, being appointed as a rendezvous in case of separation. On the 7th of February the fleet was overtaken by a violent gale, and next day they were separated. Davis, in the Desire, made for the appointed harbour, and in the way fell in with the Roebuck, which had suffered dreadfully. On the 6th of March these two ships reached Port Desire together, and in ten days afterward were joined by the Black Pinnace. The Dain^, the volunteer bark, returned to England, having stored herself with sugar at Santos while the other ships lay idle ; her cap- tain was in the mean while on board the Roebuck, and was left without any thing save the clothes which he wore. In the gale, which scarcely abated from the 7th of February to the middle of March, Cavendish suffered severely, and his officers and men had shown a disposition to mutiny ; so that, on rejoining the other ships on the 18th, he left the Leicester galleon in displeasure, and remained in the Desire, with Cap- tain Davis. Cavendish did not at this time complain more bitterly of the gentlemen of his own ship than he afterward violently accused Dr.vis of having betrayed and abandoned him. His subsequent misfortunes affected his temper, and, it may be presumed, perverted his sense of justice. Though his company had not recovered the excessive fatigue and exhaus- tion caused by th^ late continued tempest, the galleon sailed with the fleet on the 20th, and after enduring fresh storms, all the ships made the straits on the 8th of April, and on the I4th passed in. In two days they had boat inward only ten leagues. An account is given in Purchas* Pilgrims of this most dis- astrous voyage, drawn up at sea by Cavendish, in his last ill- ness. It is addressed to Sir Tristram Gorges, whom the un- fortunate navigato appointed his executor, and is one of the most affecting narratives that ever was written, — the confes- sion, wrung in bitterness of heart, fi'em a high-spirited, proud. 1 94 THOMAS CAVENDISH. and headstrong man, who, having set his aU upon a cast, and finding himself undone, endured the deeper mortification of believing he had been the dupe of those he implicitly trusted. Though we cannot admit the force of many of his allegations, nor the justice of his unmeasured invective, it is impossible to withhold sympathy from his extreme distress. *' We had been almost four months,*' says this melancholy relation, "between the coast of Brazil and the straits, being in distance not above six hundred leagues ; which is commonly run in twenty or thirty days ; but such was the adverseness of our fortune, that in coming thither we spent the summer, and found the straits, in the beginning of a most extreme winter, not durable for ' Christians After the month of May was come in, nothing but such flights of snow, and extremity of frosts, as in all my life I never saw any to be compared with them. This ex- tremity caused the weak men (in my ship only) to decay ; for, in seven or eight days, in this extremity, there died forty men and sickened seventy, so that there were not fifteen men able to stand upon the hatches." Another relation o^ the voyage written by Mr. John Jane, a friend of Captain Davis, even deepens this picture of distress. The squadron, beating for above a week against the vind into the straits, and in all that time advancing only fifty leagues, now lay in a sheltered cove on the south side of the pasaage, and nearly opposite Cape Froward, where they remained till the 15th of May, a period of extreme sufiering. '* In this time,'* says Jane, "we endur- ed extreme storms with perpetual snow, where many of our men died of cursed famine and miserable cold,* not having * Purchas' Pilgrims comprehends " The admirable and strange adventures of Master Anthony Knyvet, who went with Master Cavendish in his second voyace," which for marvels, if not for invention and imagination, may rival the adventures of Sinbad the Sailor. Kny vet wandered from the ship on the coaMt of Brazil, and was for many years among the " Cannibals." Many is the wonderflil escape from death which he makes. In the straits, pulling off his stockings one night, all his toes came with them; but this is not so bod as the fortune of one Harris, who, blowing his nose with his fingers, throws it into the iire, and never recovers it again, as Knyvet seems to nave done his toes by the good offices of a surgeon whom Cavendish employed, and who cured with muttering words. In the straits he saw both giants and fngmies. The footmarks of the giants at Port Desire were four times the ength of an Englishman's foot. In the straits their stature was fifteen and sixteen spans long ; and at Port Famine, or San Felipe, the desolate station of the Spanish colony, four or five thousand pigmies, with mouths reaching iVom ear to ear, were seen at one time, whose height was from four to five spans. Some of Kny vet's marvels relate to the singular subject of demoni- ac possession and satanic influence among the tribes with whom he sojourn- ed. These accounts, and otiiers of the elder voyagers are not materially different from those which we receive of the South Sea islanders at the THOMAS CAVENDISH. 96 wherewith to cover their bodies, nor to fill their belly, but liv- ing by muscles, water, and weeds of the sea, with a small relief from the ship's stores of meal sometimes.'* Nor was this the worst; " All the sick men in the galleon were most uncharita- bly put on shore into the woods, in the snow, wind, and cold, when men of good health could scarcely endure it, where they ended their lives in the highest degree of misery.** Though Cavendish was still on board the Desire, it is impossible to free him of the blame of this inhuman abandonment of the sick. A consultation was now held, at which Davis, who had had great experience of the severities of the seasons in the north-west voyages, declared for pushing forward, as the weather must speedily improve; while Cavendish preferred the attempt of reaching China by doubling the Cape of Good Hope. For this voyage, however, the other commanders thought there were neither provisions nor equipments. At length, on a petition by the whole company being presented to Cavencii-sh, he agreed to return to the coast of Brazil for sup- plies, and, thus furnished, again to attempt the straits. On the 15th of May they accordingly sailed eastward, and on the midnight of the 20tli, Davis in the Desire, and the Black Pinnace, were separated from the galleon, to which Cavendish had now returned. They never met again, and Cavendish, to the last moment of his unhappy life, accused Davis of having wilfully abandoned him. This treacherous desertion, if such it was, — and by the friends of Davis it is strenuously denied, took place in the latitude of Port Desire, for which harbour Davis stood in, and also the Black Pinnace, expecting, as they at least pretended, to find the general. Here they took in water, and obtained at ebb-tide muscles, and with hooks made of pins caught smelts, and thus spared their slender stock of provisions. An effort made by Davis to go in search of the captain- general in the pinnace was overruled, it is alleged, by the ship^s company, who would not permit its departure. They are even charged with open mutiny, and two ringleaders are named. To clear himself of all suspicion, Davis, on the 2d of June, drew up a relation of the voyage, of the separation, and of the state of the two ships lying here, which all the men subscribed. 1 tidera at the preaent time, and which we are anured by Ellis ■otne of the early mimiona* rieii were disposed to believe. On his return to England, Master Knyvet told Purchas, that he once heard an Indian conferring with the Spirit wiiich possessed him, and threatening that, if it did not use him better, h« would turn Christian; the Spirit took the hio!: and left him. 96 THOMAS CAVENIMSH. It certainty goes far to exonerate bim. They remained in Port Desire till the 6th of August, keeping watch on the hills for the galleon and the Koebuck ; one part of the company foraging for provisions of any kind that could be obtained, while others made nails, bolts, and ropes from an old cable, and thus sup- plied their wants in the best manner they could devise. There are, however, surmises, that all this labour was undertaken that Davis might be able to accomplish his great object of passing the straits, whatever became of the general, and what- ever might have been his wishes or orders. After this refitting was accomplished, it was accordingly resolved to await the coming of Cavendish in the straits, for whi^h, having at Pen- guin Isle salted twenty hogsheads of seals, they sailed on the night of the 7th of August, " the poorest wretches that ever were created." Several times they obtained a sight of the South Sea, and were driven back into the straits. While tossed about, they were on the 14th driven in ** among certain islands never be- fore discovered by any known relation, lying fifty leagues or better off the shore, east and northerly from the straits." These were the Falkland Islands, of which Captain Davis certainly has the honour of being the original discoverer, as he had already been of the straits which still go by his name, and of other ports in the north seas. This discovery was shortly afterward claimed by Sir Richard Hawkins, who gave these islands the name of Hawkins* Maiden Land, " for that it was discovered in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, my sovereign lady, and a maiden queen." The discovery of these islands has been claimed by the navigators of other countries, and a varie- ty of names have been imposed upon them. Burney christens them anew " Davis* Southern Islands," a distinction to which that celebrated navigator is fully entitled, though it will not be easy to change a name so established as that of the Falkland Islands. On the 2d of October they got into the South Sea once more, and in the same night encountered a severe gale, which continued with unabated violence for many days. On the 4th the pinnace was lost: on the 5th the foresail was split and all torn ; " and the mizzen was brought to the foremast to make our ship work, the storm continuing beyond all descrip- tion in fury, with hail, snow, rain, and wind, such and so mighty as that in nature it could not possibly be more ; the sea such and so lofty with continual breach, that many times we were doubtful whether our ship did sink or swim.** The rela- tion proceeds thus, with earnest pathetic simplicity : — " The 10th of October, being, by the account of our captain and mas- ter, very near the shore, the weather dark, the storm furioui, THOMAS CATEND18H. 97 and most of our nen having given over to travail, we yielded ourselves to death without farther hope of succour. Our cap- tain (Davis) sitting in the galleiy very pensive, I came and brought him some Rosa Solis to comfort him, for he was so cold he was scarce able to move a joint. After he had drunk, and was comforted in heart, he began for the ease of his con- science to make a large repetition of his forepassed time, and with many grievous sighs he concluded in these words :— ' Oh most glorious God, with whose power the mightiest things among men are matters of no moment, I most humbly beseech thee, that the intolerable burden of my sins may through the blood of Jesus Christ be taken from me ; and end our days with speed, or show us some merciful sign of thy love and our preservation.'* Having thus ended, he desired me not to make knf^wn to the company his intolerable grief and anguish of mind, because they should not thereby be dismayed ; and suddenly, before I went from him, the sun shined clear; so that he and the master both observed the true elevation of the Pole, whereby they knew by what course to recover the strait/* The narrative goes on to relate a wonderful instance of preservation in doubling a cape at the mouth of the strait on the 11th of October. They at last put back into the strait in a most pitiable con- dition, the men " with their sinews stiff, their flesh dead,'' and in a state too horrible to be described. They found shelter and rest in a cove for a few days, but famine urged them on, and the weather, after a short interval of calm, became as stormy as before. " The storm growing outrageous, our men could scarcely stand by their labour; and the straits being full of turning reaches, we were constrained, by the discretion of the captain and master in their accounts, to guide the ship in the hell-dark night when we could not see any shore." In this extremity they got back to Port Desire, and obtained wood and water ; and in Penguin Island found abundance of birds. One day, while most of the men were absent on their several duties, a multitude of the natives showed themselves, throwing dust upon their heads, ** leaping and running Uke brute beasts, having vizards on their faces, like dogs* faces, or else their faces are dogs' faces indeed. We greatly feared lest they should set the ship on fire, for they would suddenly make fire, whereat we much marvelled.! They came to windward of our * Our readers will remember the admirable uae which De Foe has made of thn scene, t In New Guinea Capta'n Cook saw a peculiar mode of "suddenly ma- tur fire." nrnhnhlv. hnwnvnr. vnrv th desperate ley got back i and a crazy , which de- B provisions, up the Roe- 'CT appeared, I he did not have broken of returning, in oath upon I a was there- while an at- I the harbour 2cessful. Of irred expedi- ied. Among Cavendish ited into the he insuhing despite of ave men, as lorance and Drs of enter- er. Inabili- d one of the the present ever thought )t land upon )on what he would land msel of his msequences indignation to another, d help them to hasten off, as they were exposed to a galling fire. The numbers that rushed into the boat ran her aground, and ten men were obliged to leave her, who, to save themselves from the Indian arrows which flew thick, again ran in under the fort, and poured in a volley of musketry. Meanwhile the boat was got afloat, " and one that was master of the Roebuck (the most cowardly villain that ever was born of a woman !) caused them in the boat to row away, and so left those brave men a spoil to the Portugals. Yet they waded up to their necks in the water to them ; but those merciless villains in the boat would have no pity on them. Their excuse was, that the boat was sc full of water that had they come in she would have sunk with them all in her. Thus vilely were those poor men lost." By the fatal adventure which he has thus narrated, Caven- dish, already in want of every necessary, was left witji hardly as many efiicient men as could raise the anchor. To add to his already accumulated misfortunes the Roebuck forsook him, the company of that ship being resolved to return home ; and though the wounded lay in his vessel, they carried off the two surgeons and a great part of the common stores. In these dis- tressing circumstances he got to the small uninhabited island I of St. Sebastian, where he mended the old boats, and obtained a seasonable supply of water, of which they were in great want. Again Cavendish spoke of returning to the straits, and used all the arts of persuasion with his company, but in Tain. He showed them that they could " reUeve themselves by salting seals and birds, &c. ; and further, should they get through the straits, (which they might easily perform, con- sidering they had the chiefest part of the summer before them,) they could not but make a most rich voyage ; and that we should be the most infemous in the world, being within six hundred leagues of the place where we so much desired, — ^to return home again so far being most infamous and beggarly. These persuasions," continues Cavendish, ** took no place with them ; but most boldly they all affirmed that they had sworn they would never again go to the straits ; neither by no means would they. And one of the chiefest of this faction most proudly and stubbornly uttered these words to my face, in presence of all the rest ; which I seeing, and finding mine own faction to be so weak, (for there were not any favoured my side but my poor cousin Locke, and the master of the ship,) I took this bold companion by the bosom, and with mine own hands put a rope about his neck, meaning resolutely to strangle him, for weapon about me I had none. His cmn- panions, seeing one of tlwir chief chuBpions in this case, 102 THOMAS CAVENDISH. and perceiving me go roundly to work with him, they all came to the master and desired him to speak, affirming, they would all be ready to take any course I thought good of; so I, hear- ing this, <)tayed myself, and let the fellow go." Having now boldly avowed his intention of returning to the straits. Cavendish landed on the island with a party of hia doldiers and the carpenters, to new-build the boat, while the sailors on board mended and patched up the ligging and tackle of the ship. But he still suspected his men of treache- ry, and of the intention of deserting, and was in constant anx- iety to get them once more on board, that the ship might depart for the straits. Before this could be accomplished, Cavendish, whom Fortune never wearied of persecuting, sustained another severe mischance. The wounded men were on shore on the island, which lay about a mile from the mainland, from whence.the Portuguese watched ail the proceedings of the ship's company during the building of the boat. Before all the wood and water were got in, and while some soldiers and seamen were stiJl on the island, an Irishman, *' a noble villain," contrived to go over to the continent upon a raft, and betray his defenceless comrades to the Portuguese. This was done in the night-time ; and besides those employed on the island, and the sick, there chanced to be several men ashore, who frequently stole away from the ship at night to enjoy the free- dom of the land. All were indiscriminately butchered. One of the few remaining sails which lay here was also seized, and in their distressed circumstances proved another serious loss. ** Thus," says the luckless adventurer, " I was forced to de- part. Fortune never ceasing to lay her greatest adversities upon me. And now I am grown so weak that I am scarce able to hold the pen in my hand ; wherefore I must leave you to in- quire of the rest of our most unhappy proceedings. But know this, that for the strait I could by no means get my company to give their consent to go. In truth, I desired nothing more than to attempt that course, rather desiring to die in gomg for- ward than basely in returning back again ; but God would not suffer me to die so happy a man." These " unhappy pro- ceedings" to w'hich he refers, may, so far as they are known, be very briefly noticed. An attempt was made to reach the island of St. Helena, for which the company had reluctantly consented to steer only on Cavendish solemnly declaring that to England he would never go ; and that, if they refused to take such courses as he intended, the " ship and all should sink in the seas together." This for a time made them more tractable ; but having beat to 20** S. they refused to proceed farther, chooufig rather to die where they were, "than be TB01IA8 CAVENDISH. 103 •tanred in searchiii^^ for an island which could never be found again." They were, however, once more induced to proceed southward, and in dreadful weather beat back to 28** S., and stood for St. Helena, which was most unhappily missed, owing to contrary winds and the unskilfulness of the sailing-master. On« more effort this unfortunate commander made to induce his mutinous crew to regain the island, alarming them with the scarcity of provisions; but they unanimously replied, " that they would be perished to death rather than not make for England." It is believed that Mir. Cavendish did not long survive the [events recorded above; and it is certain that he died before [the ship reached England. His letter, from which we have Suoted, was not closed when the galleon reached 8^ N. From s commencement, — and it must have been wr^t^-^n at many [different sittings, — Cavendish had considered himpcif a dying Iman. It opens with great tenderness : — ** Most loving friend, lere is nothing in this world that makes a truer trial of friend- Ifaip, than at death to show mindfulness of love and friendship, rhich now you shall make a perfect experience of; desiring >u to hold my love as dear, dying poor, as if I had been lost infinitely rich. The success of this most unfortunate tion, the bitter torments whereof lie so heavy upon me, as rith much pain am I able to write these few lines, much less make discourse to you of all the adverse haps that have be- llen me in this voyage, the least whereof is my death." He Iverts to the illness of" a most true friend, whom to name my beart bleeds," who, like himself became the victim of the com- plicated distresses of this voyage. Afler the crowning misfor- Itune of misusing St. Helena, he says, " And now to tell you of tmy greatest grief, which was the sickness of my dear kinsman iJohn Locke, who by this time was grown in great weakness, [by reason whereof he desired rather quietness and contented- iness in our course, than such continual disquietness as never feeased me. And now by this, what with grief for him and ^% ^tibe continual trouble I endured among such hellhounds, my spirits were clean spent, wishing myself upon any desert place in the world, there to die, rather than thus basely return home again. Which course, I swear to you, I had put in execution, had I found an island which the cards (charts) make to be in ^8° S. of the line. I swear to you I sought it with all diligence, [meaning there to have ended my most unfortunate life. But God suffered not such happiness to light upon me, for I could by no means find it ; so, as I was forced to go towards Eng- land, and having got eight degrees by the north of the line, I lost my most dearest cousin. And now consider, whether a 104 TB0MA8 CAVENDISH. heart made of flesh be able to endure so many misfortunes, all falling upon me without intermission. And I thank my God, th >': in ending me he hath pleased to rid me of all farther troubles and mishaps." The rest of the letter refers to his pri. vate concerns, and especially to the discharge of his debts and the arrangement of his affairs for this purpose, — an act of friendship which he expected from the kindness of the gentle- man he addressed. It then takes an affecting farewell of life, and of the friend for whom he cherished so warm an affection. In his two voyages, Cavendish experienced the greatest ex- tremes of fortune ; his lirst adventure being even more brilUant and successful than the last— chiefly through the bad disci- pline and evil dispositions of his company — ^was disastrous and unhappy. Cavendish was still very young when he died. No naval commander ever more certainly sunk under the disease to which so many brave men have fallen victims, — a broken heart. In many things his conduct discovered the rashness and impetuosity of youth, and the want of that temper and self-command which are among the first qualities of a naval chief. The reproach of cruelty, or at least of culpable indif- ference to the claims of humanity, which, from transactions in both voyages, and especially in the first, must rest upon his memory, ought in justice to be shared with the age in which he lived, and the state of moral feehng among the class to which he belonged by birth. By the aristocracy " the vulgar," " the common sort," were still regarded as creatures of a dif- ferent and inferior species ; while among seamen the destruc- tion of Spaniards and " Portugals" was regarded as a positive virtue. By all classes, negroes, Indians, and gentiles were held in no more esteem than brute animals, — human life as existing in beings so abject being regarded as of no value what- ever. But if Cavendish was tinged with the faults of his class, he partook largely of its virtues, — high spirit, courage, and in- trepidity. Those who might be led to judge of some points of his conduct with strictness, will be disposed to lenity by the recollection of his sufferings. As an EngUsh navigator hit name is imperishable. b^i WILLIAM DAMPIER. Captain William Dampier, whose eventful life forms the next subject of our work, was so long and so intimately asso- ciated with the Bucaniers of America, that a brief account of this extraordinary brotherhood is almost indispensably neces- sary as an introduction to the auventures and di^'coveries of this eminent navigator. The term Bucanier is said to be derived from bouean^ a word employed by the Carib Indians to designate meat taken in hunting; the first bucaniers having been eminently devoted to the pursuits of the chase. The association which was distinguished by this name, owed its origin to the selfish and monopolizing policy of the Span- iards, who desirous of appropriating the commerce with their West India colonies, entirely to themselves, adopted a system of interference with the vessels of every other nation that ventured near the tropic, thus giving rise to the well known 10 106 WILLIAM DAMPIER. maxim of the Bucaniers, " No peace beyond the Line." The Bucaniera consisted chieflj of French'and English traders, who smuggled goods into the Spanish possessions in South America and the West Indies, and who from trafficking on the coast, and occasionally foraging for provisions for their vessela on these uninhabited shores, from time to time adopted .the hunter's life, and ranged at will throughout the forests and wilds of the New World. In time of peace this assemblage of bold and dissolute men followed their occupation of hunters, smugglers, and pirates, and in time of war held commissions as privateers from the governments of their respectiv«:; coun- tries; indeed Dampier and others always spoke of the indi- vidual members of the brotherhood as privateers^ while they named their vocation of piracy privateering. The Bucaniers, from individual efforts of hostility to Spain, and from acts of single commanders with a few volunteers under theii^ control, at length attained to such a system of organization, as to form distinct settlements in the West India islands, and became dis- tinguished by laws, manners, and customs, peculiar to them- selves, originating in the necessities and exigencies of their condition. They held their property in common, and as they had no domestic ties, neither wife, nor child, nor sister, nor brother, being known among them, the want of family relations was supplied by strict comradeship, one partner attending to household duties while the other was engaged in the peculiar duties of their vocation. Their chief virtue was courage ; the fear of the gallows which had frequently converted the thief into a murderer, made the Bucanier a hero and a savage. They were remarkable for extraordinary hardihood, and the habit and power of extreme endurance, but their long seasons of entire privation were always followed by scenes of the most brutal excess. Their grand principle was fideUty ; and the maxim of " honour among thieves," was never more scnipu- lously observed than among them. The most able and brave was chosen their commander, but all the fighting men assisted at their councils. The same power which chose their leader could displace iiim, and this was frequently done. They sometimes settled personal quarrels by duels, but offences against the fraternity were visited by different punishments, at death, abandonment on a desert island, and simple expulsion from the fraternity. A party being agreed upon for a cruise, the day and place of embarkation was fixed, and every man repaired on board the ship with a specified quantity of powder and shot. The next concern . was to procure provisions, which consisted chiefly of pork. Many of the Spaniards raised large herds of WILLIAM DAMPIBR. 107 sctivii coun- awine for the supply of the planters, and from their yards abundance was procured, with no trouble save that in which the ferocious Bucaniers dehghted— robbery often accompanied with murder. Turtle slightly salted, was another article of the food which they stored, and for beeves and wild hogs they trusted to their fire-arms. Bread they seldom tasted, and at sea never thought about, though in later periods they some- times procured supplies of cassada, maize and potatoes. Of this food every man ate generally twice a day, or at his own pleasure, and without limitation ; there being in this respect no distinction between the commander and the meanest sea- man. The vessel fairly victualled, a final council was held which determined the destination of the cruise and the plan of operations ; and articles were generally drawn up and sub- scribed which regulated the division of the spoils. The car- penter, the sail-maker, the surgeon, were in the first place paid out of the coiKraon stock. Wounds were next considered; the value of the right arm, the most useful member of the Bucanier's body, being reckoned equal to six slaves, and the eye and fingers to one slave. The remainder was equally shared, save that the captain besides hia specific agreement, [bad five shares and his mate two. Boys had half a share. [The first maxim in the code of the Bucanier, dictated by necfiS- sity was, " no prey, no pay." The dress of these ruffians was I well suited to their ferocious and brutal character. It consist- ed of a shirt dipped in the blood of the cattle hunted and kill- ed; trousers prepared in the same rude manner; buskins without stockings, a cape with a small front, and a leathern girdle, into which were stuck knives, sabres, and pistols. Such was the bloody and complete equipment of a Bucanier. Among the most distinguished of these merciless villains, were Pierre Francois, Pierre Legrand, Bartholomew Portu- gues, Lewis Scot, the first land-pirate, Mansvelt, John Davies, Lolonnois, and Montbar, distinguished among the fraternity by pre-eminence in crime, and the infamous Captain Sir Hen- ry Morgan. Pierre Legrand with a boat carrying four small pieces, and twenty men captured a Spanish galleon, the vice-admiral of the fleet. The manner in which the capture was made affords a fair specimen of bucaniering daring and warfare. The boat, in which the men lay concealed, had been seen by the galleon all day, and one of the men had warned the captain of his suspicion of a nest of pirates lurking in the distant speck. The Spaniard haughtily and carelessly replied, " And what then? shall I be afraid of so pitifid a thingi no, though she were as good a ship es my own." He piobal^ thought no 106 WILLIAM DAMPIES. -*■ more of the circamstance till seated at cards with his friend» the same evening, he saw the Bucaniers rush into his cabin, haring already overpowered the crew. Nor had the task proved difficult. Pierre and his company had kept aloof till dusk, when they made for the galleon with all the force of oars. The game was for death, ignominious death, slavery in the mines, or for vic- tory and fortune. To render their courage desperate, Pierre had ordered the surgeon to bore holes in the side of the boat, that no other footing might be left to his men than the deeks of the Spaniard. This was directly performed while each man armed with a sword and pistols, climbed the sides <^the ship. While one party rushed into the cabin, and presented their pistols to the officers, who sat at cards, another seized the gun room, cutting down whoever stood in their way. As the Spaniards had been completely surprised, but Uttle opposi- tion was offered ; the ship surrendered and was carried into France. Bartholomew Portugues, cruinng from Jamaica, with a boat carrying four small pieces and thirty men, captured a ship of twenty great guns, with a crew of seventy men. Mansvelt conceived the design of forming an independent Bucanier establishment, holding neither of France, England, nor Holland, which should afford a place of safe retreat to the freebooters of every nation, but he died before he could carry his design into effect. But in the annals of the sea-rovers no names are to be found more terrible than those of Lolonnois and Montbar. The former was a monster in human form, rather than a merely cruel man. This Bucanier commander of whom almost in- credible atrocities are related, is said to have frequently thrown overboard the crews of the ships which he took. He is said to have struck off the heads of eighty prisoners with his own hand, refreshing himself by sucking the blood of the victims as it trickled down his sabre. It is even related, that in trans- ports offra'^tic cruelty, he has been known to tear out and de- vour the hearts of those who fell by his hand, and to pluck out the tongues of others. To this monster cruelty was an affair of calculation as well as of delight. At length after experiencing a train of disasters, this infamous wretch fell into the hands of certain Indians of the Darien, a fierce and cruel tribe, who were not unacquainted with the atrocities of the Bucaniers. By them he was torn alive Umb from limb,~-his body con- sumed, and the ashes scattered abroad, to the intent that no trace, nor memory might remain of such an infamous creature. f WILLIAM DAMPIER. 109 The character of Montbar is more romantic if not more humane. Montbar was a native of Languedoc, in France, who from reading in his youth of the horrible cruelties of the Spaniards upon the Mexicans and Caribs, imbibed a hatred of the whole Spanish nation, which possessed him Uke a frensj. It is however somewhat strange that the impulse which led this singular person to join the ranks of the Bucaniers urged him to the commission of worse cruelties than those which he reprobated. His comrades were often merciless from the lust of gold ; but Spanish blood was the sole passion of Montbar. It is related by Raynal, that while at college, in acting the part of a Frenchman who quarrels with a Spaniard, he assault- ed the youth who personnted an individual of that hated na- tion with such fury that he had well nigh strangled him. His imagination was perpetually huunted by the shapes of multi- tudes of persons butchered by monsters from Spain, who called upon him to revenge them. While on his passage outward to league himself with the brethren of the coast, the inveterate enemies of Spain, the vessel in which he sailed fell in with a Spanish ship, and captured it. No sooner had the French- men boarded the vessel, than Montbar, with his sabre drawn, twice rushed along the decks, cutting his frantic way through the ranks of Spaniards, whom he swept down. While his comrades divided the booty acquired by his prowess, Montbar gloated over the mangled Umbs of the detested people against whom he had vowed everlasting and deadly hate. From this and similar actions he acquired the name of the Exterminator. Captain Sir Henry Morgan, as he is called, was of a most sordid and brutal character, selfish and cunning without any spark of the reckless generosity which sometimes graced the freebooter and contrasted with his crimes. The enterprises of Morgan, who was at once ambitious and greedy, display ca- pacity, coolness and daring. His next attempt combined all these qualities in a remarkable degree. With nine ships and boats and four hundred and sixty of his countrymen, he re- solved to assault Porto Bello ; but did not venture to disclose so bold a design till it was no longer advisable to conceal it. x'o those who then objected that their force was inadequate to the attack, Morgan boldly replied, " That though their num- bers were small, their hearts were good ; and the fewer the warriors the larger the shares of plunder." This last was an • irresistible argument ; and this strongly-fortified city was car- ried by a handful of resolute men, who never scrupled at cru- elty needful to the accomplishment of their object, and often revelled in the wantonness of unnecessary crime. The first fort or castle was deUberately blown up by fire being set to the 10* no WILLIAM DAMPfEKr %■ powder magazine, after many miserable prisoners, whose mangled limbs soon darkened the air, had been huddled into one rooJd. Resistance was still attempted by the Spaniards, which greatly exasperated the besiegers, as it was into the forta which held out, that the wealthy inhabitants had retired with their treasures and valuables. One strong fort it was ne- cessary to carry without delay ; and bioad scaling-ladders be- ing constructed, Morgan compelled his prisoners to fix them to the walls. Many of those employed in this office were priests and nuns dragged for this purpose from the cloisters. These, it was thought, their countrymen would spare ; while under their protection the Bucaniers might advance without being exposed to the fire of the castle. In these trying cir- cumstances, forgetting the claims of country, and the sacred character of the innocent persons exposed to sufferings so un- merited, the Spo'iish governor consulted only his official duty; and while the unhappy prisoners of the Bucaniers implored his mercy, continued to pour shot upon all who approached the walls, whether pirates, or the late peaceful inhabitants of the cloisters, his stern answer being that he would never sur- render alive. Many of the friars and nuns were killed before the scaling-ladders could be fixed ; but that done, the Buca- niers, carrying with them fire balls and po'^ full of gunpowder, boldly mounted the walls, poured in their combustibles, and speedily effected an entrance. All the Spaniards demanded quarter except the governor, who died fighting, in presence of liis wife and daughter, declaring that he chose rather to die as a brave soldier, than be hanged like a coward. The next act in the horrid drama of bucaniering conquest, followed rapidly ; pillage, cruelty, brutal license, — ^the freebooters giving them- selves up to so mad a course of riot and debauchery that fifty resolute men might have cut them off and regained the town, had the panic struck Spaniards been able to form any f ational plan of action, or to muster a force. During these fifteen days of demoniac revel, interrupted only by torturing the prisoners to make them give up treasures which they did not possess, many of the Bucaniers died from the consequences of their own brutfd ^»s||e8ses, and Morgan deemed it expedient to draw off ' hit for«ekl;IiD format ion had by this time reached the Governor of Pananto.l and though aid was distant from the miserable i&habitaiK^ ' of Porto Bello, it might still come. Morgan, therefore, carried off a good many of the guns, spiked the rest, fully supplied his ships with every necessary store, and having already plundered all that was possible, insolently demanded an exhorbitant ransom for the preservation of the city and for hit prisoners, and prepared to depart firom the coast. These WILLIAM DAMFIES' 111 terms he even sent to the Governor of Panama, who was ap- proaching the place, and whose force the Bucaniers intercept- ed in a narrow pass, and compelled to retreat. The inhabi- tants collected among thempelves a hundred thousand pieces of eight, which Morgan graciously accepted, and retired to his ships. The astonishment of the Governor of Panama at so small a force carrying the town and the forts, and holding them sa long, induced him, it is said, to send a message to the Buca- nier leader, requesting a specimen of the arms which he used« Morgan received the messenger with civility, gave him a pis- tol and a few bullets, and ordered him to bid the president to accept of so slender a pattern of the weapons with which he had taken Porto Bello, and to keep it for a twelvemonth, at the t nd of which time he (Morgan) proposed to come to Panama to fetch it away. The governor returned the loan with a gold ring, and requested Morgan not to give himself the trouble of travelling so far, certifying to him that he would not fare so' well as he had done at Porto Bello. On this subject Morgan formed and afterward acted upon his own opinions. In the mean while the spoils were divided at the Keys of Cuba. The booty amounted to 250,000 piece» ! of eight, besides goods of all kinds, including silks, linen, cloth, [and many things that found a ready market in Jamaica, for 1 irhich Bucaniers' paradise the fleet next sailed, to fit them- selves for a fresh expedition by a month's carousing, and the prodigal expenditure of the fruits of their toils and crimes. This exploit, in which so few men, and those armed only with pistols and sabres, had taken a large fortified city» Iraiaed the character of Morgan as a commander higher than ever>^ and his invitation to the Brethren of the Coast to meet him at ^ the Islade la Vaca, or Cow Island, which was appointed a»m rendezvous preparatory to another cruise, was so eagerly aoc cepted that he found himself at the head of a considerable force. A large French bucaniering vessel, which refused to join this expedition, he obtained by fraud. Inviting the com- mander and several of the best men to dine with him, under some frivolous pretext he made them prisoners. But Morgan did not reap much advantage from this act of treachery. While the men whom he had placed in the ship were carous- ing, celebrating the commencement of another cruise, it sud- denly blew up, and three hundred and fifly Englishmen and the French prisoners perished together. This accident, so disastrous to Morgan, was imputed to the revengeful spirit of the Frenchmen confined in the hold. The true character of the sordid Bucanier was never more strongly displayed than in I 112 WILLIAM DAHPIER. the way which Morgan tried to make the best for himself of this miscliance. When eight days of mourning had elapsed, he made the dead bodies be fished up, stripped of clothes, linen, and of the gold rings which Bucaniers often wore, and then be thrown back into the sea to feed the sharks. Morgan had now a fleet of fifteen ships, some of which he owed to the kindness of the Governor of Jama*ca, who conni ved at, or took a share in, such adventures. His force consist ed of 1000 fighting-men. Several of his vessels were armed and his own carried 14 guns. With these, which, however, through discontent, diminished a full half on the way, he sha ped his course for the devoted cities of Gibralter and Maracai bo, formerly visited by Lolonnois, which were once more ta ken and plundered. At the former place the cruelties of Mor gan exceeded, if that were possible, the enormities of the French pirate. Such of the inhabitants as fled to the woods and were retaken, were tortured \i»ith fiendlike ingenuity to make them discover their wealth. It would be painful and revolting to dwell upon the black record of the atrocities per- petrated here. So much time had been consumed at Gibraltar, that Mor- gan, when about to withdraw, found himself in a snare, from which it required all his talent and presence of mind to extri- cate the Bucanier fleet. Coolness and readiness were, how- ever, the familiar qualities of men whose lives were a series of j)erils and escapes, and whose natural element was danger ; and they never were more admirably displayed than by Mor- gan and his men at this time. In the interval spent by the Bucaniers in pillage and debau- chery at Gibraltar, the Spaniards had repaired the fort which protected the passage of the lake or lagune of Maracaibo, and stationed three men of war at the entrance, whose vigilance it was conceived impossible the pirates could escape. These vessels carried, one twenty, another thirty, and the third forty guns. Putting a bold face upon his embarassing situation, Morgan, with the audacity natural to him, and which was one of his instruments of success, sent a message to the Spanish admiral, demanding a ransom as the only condition on which the city could be preserved. To this insolent vaunt the Span- iard replied, that though the Bucanier commander had taken the castle from a set of cowards, it was now in a good state of defence ; and that he not only intended to dispute the egress from the lagune, but to pursue the pirates everywhere. If, however, they chose to give up the prisoners and the slaves they had taken, they would be permitted to pass fbnh unmo- lested. This reply was as usual submitted to a full council of WILLIAM DAMPIUL 113 Bucanien, and at this aswmbty one of their number suggeited the stratagem bj which Morgan in the first place destroyed the Spanish men of war. One of the Bucanier vessels was pre- pared as a fireship, and at the same time was made to wear the appearance of a vessel ready for action. Logs were pla- ced in rows on the decks, on which clothes, hats, and Montero caps were placed ; and these decoy-figures were also armed with swords and muskets. When this was done, the plate, jewels, female prisoners, and whatever was of mc st value to the Bucaniers, were placed in their large boats, each of which carried twelve armed men. These boats were to follow the fireship, which led the van ; an oath was exacted from each Bucanier of resistance to the last, and the refusal of quarter from the Spaniards ; and ample rewards were promised fbr valour and firmness. Next evening the fleet sailed, and about dusk came up with the Spanish ships riding at anchor in the middle of the lagune. The Bucanier vessels also anchored, resolved to await here the effect of their stratagem, and either to fight, escape, or perish. No attack was offered that night, and they lay in quiet till dawn, when the anchors were weigh- ed, and they steered directly towards the Spanish ships, which ; advanced as if to meet them. The fireship, still in advance, [with all her decoys of armed men as before, came up with the largest of the Spanish vessels and grapled to her, — ^then the deception was first discovered, but too late for escape. The conflagration commenced. The Spanish ship cau^t fire in the tackUng and timbers, and the forepart of her hull soon went down. The second Spanish vessel escaped under the guns of the castle, and was sunk by her own company as a fate pre- ferable to falling a prey to the Bucaniers. The third vessel was taken. The crew of the burning ship endeavored to es- cape to the shore, and all chose rather to perish in the sea than accept of the quarter offered by the pirates. The tri- umphant Bucaniers, without losing a moment, gave chase, and immediately landed, resolving forthwith to attempt the castle ; but as they were ill armed for such an assault, and the place was well fortified and manned, they desisted from the attempt, and returned to their ships, having lost in that day*s work thirty men killed and many more wounded. Though the Spanish ships were destroyed, the zaa*\e still remained to be passed ; and the Spaniards had labo' red aU night in completing its defences. Morgan again had recourse to stratagem. All day long, in sight of the garrison, he affect- ed to be sending boats filled with men to a point of the shore concealed from view of the castle by^ trees. These men re- 114 WILLIAM DAMPIER. turned on board lying flat in the boats, where, in going back, only the rowers were visible. They mounted their ships at a side on which the Spaniards could not perceive their return. This manoeuvre was repeated, till the Spaniards beUeved that from the number of men landed, an attack upon the castle was meditated. This seemed the more probable, as Morgan, who had now hoisted his flag in their captured war-ship, again sent a message demanding a ransom for Maracaibo as the condi- tion of his departure. To meet the presumed movement of the Bucaniers, the guns of the castle were changed from a po- sition which commanded the lagune, and pointed to landward. As soon as he was aware of this arrangement, Morgan raised his anchors by moonlight, and favoured by the ebb tide, the wind also being favourable, pressed past the castle ; the morti- fied Spaniards trying in vain to hasten back with their pieces to bear upon him. He gave them a parting volley from his great guns, so lately their own ; and bore away for Jamaica, exulting in good fortune, enhanced hkewise by what he learn- ed of the misadventures of those who had forsaken him in the early part of the cruise. Money and credit were, as usual, quickly outrun in the taverns of Port Royal by the dissolute companions of Morgan ; and another expedition was concerted, which was to exceed all the former achievements of the sea-rovers. And no time was to be lost, as a pending treaty between Great Britain and Spain threatened forever to put an end to what their admiring countrymen termed the " unparalleled exploits of the Buca- niers." Letters were despatched by the commander to every noted Bucanier, and the south side of the island of Tortuga was named as the rendezvous. Early in October, 1670, Mor- gan found himself surrounded by pirates, hunters, cultivators, EngUsh, French, and Dutch, who, from land and sea, the plantation and the wilderness, had flocked to the standard of him who was to lead them to fortune and victory. The first duty was to victual the fleet, and this was done by pillaging the hog-yards, and with the boucan sent in by hunters who either joined in the expedition or traded with the pirates. The Bucanier fleet, consisting of thirty-seven vessels fully pro- visioned, next sailed for Cape Tiburon, on the west coast of Hispaniola, — ^the fighting men amounting to two thousand. At the general council now held, three places of attack were deliberated upon, — ^Vera Cruz, Carthagena, and Panama. The last and most difficult was that which was chosen, recom- mended by the extravagant notions entertained in Europe and the West Indies of its amazing wealth, and of the great riches of Peru. ^ WILLIAM DAMPIER. 115 Morgan had never renounced the idea, which originated with Mansvelt, of a Bucanier setdement on the conveniently- situated island of Providence. Once more it was captured on his way, the Spanish governor making a farce of resistance. From this point ^Morgan detached a force of four hundred men to attack the castle of Chagre, the possession of which he judged necessary to the success of his future operations against Panama. It was eventually carried by the accident of fire communicating with the powder magazine, which blew up part of the defences.* While the Spaniards were occupied in suppressing the con- flagration, the Bucaniers laboured hard to increase the confu- sion, by setting fire to the palisadoes in several places. At last they effected a breach, in defiance of the liquid combusti- bles which the Spaniards poured down among them, and which occasioned considerable loss of their numbers. But the attack and resistance were still continued throughout the whole night, the Bucaniers directing an incessant fire towards the breaches, which the Spanish governor pertinaciously de- fended. By noon the next day the Bucaniers had gained a breach, Iwhich was defended by the governor himself and twenty-five lloldiers. The Spanish soldiers fought with desperate valour, [despair lending them supernatural courage ; but nothing could [resist the impetuosity of the pirates ; they burst their way ' through every obstacle, and the unfortunate Spaniards who survived, preferring death to the dishonour of either falling into the hands of these infuriated rufiians or of begging quar- ter, precipitated themselves into the sea. The governor had retired into the corps du gardcy before which he planted two pieces of cannon, and bravely maintained the hopeless and unequal conflict till he feU by a musket shot which entered the brain. Of the garrison of three hundred and fourteen men only thirty remained alive, and of these few twenty were wounded. Not a single ofloicer escaped. From the survivors of the siege, the Bucanier party «eamed that the Governor of Panama was already apprized of their *The manner in which the fire was imagined to be communicated is not a little singular. A Bucanier was pierced through by an arrow from the fort He drew it forth from his body, wound a little cotton round it, and shot it fr'^m his musket against the castle. The cotton kindled by the pow- der set hre to the pahn-leaf roofs of some sheds within the castle, and the flames caught at the gunpowder, which produced the breach in Uie walls. At the same instant the Bucaniers set fire to the palisadoes : the Spaniards, though unwavering in courage and undaunted in r0MhltUH& bectttne dis- tracted in the midst of bo many dangers. ; ~^^ 116 WILLIAM DAMPnm. •t design against that place, that all along the course of the Chagre ambuscades were laid, and that a force of three thou- sand six hundred men awaited their arrival. But this did not deter Morgan, who pressed forward for Chagre the instant that he received intelligence of the capture of the casde, car* rying with him all the provisions that could be obtained m Santa Katalina, to which island he intended to return after the capture of Panama. The English colours flying upon the castle of Chagre was a sight of joy to the main body of the Bucaniers upon their arrivaL Morgan was admitted within the fort by the triumph- ant advanced troop with all the honours of conquest. Before his arrival, the wounded, the widows of the soldiers killed in the siege, and the other women of the place, had been shut up in the church, and subjected to the most brutal treatment. To their fate Morgan was entirely callous ; but he lost no time in setting the prisoners to work in repairing the defences and forming new palisadoes ; he also seized all the craft in the river, many of wliich carried from two to four small pieces. These arrangements concluded, Morgan left a garrison of Ave hundred men in his castle of Chagre, and in the ships one hundred and fifty ; while at the head of twelve hundred Buca- niers, he, on the 18th of January, 1671, commenced his inland voyage to Panama, indifferent about or determined to brave the Spanish ambuscades. His artillery was carried by five large boats, and thirty-two canoes were filled with part of the men. Anxious to push forward, Morgan committed one capi- tal blunder in carrying almost no provisions, calculating upon a shorter period being consumed on the march than it actually required, and on foraging upon the Spaniards. Even on the first day their provisions failed, and on the second they were compelled to leave the canoes, the lowness of the river and the fallen trees lying across it making this mode of travelling tedious and nearly impracticable. Their progress was now continued by land and water alternately, and was attended with great inconvenience, the extremity of famine being of the number of their hardships. Their best hopes were now placer^, in falling in with the threatened ambuscades, as there they might find a store of provisions. So extremely were they pinched with hunger, that the leathern bags found at a deserted Spanish station formed a delicious meal. About this deticacy they even quarrcisd, and it is said openly regretted that no Spaniards were found, as, ftiiling provisions, they had resdived to have roasted or boiled a few of the enemy to satisfy their rKranJMg «ppetite«. ^ » % WILLIAM DAMPIKIU 117 Throughout the whole track to Panama the Spaniards had taken care not to leave the smaliest quantity of provisions, and any other soldiers than the Bucanir .s must have perished long before even a distant view was obtained of the citj; but their powers of endurance, from their hardy modes of IHe, were be- come almost superhuman. At nightfall, when they reached their haking-place, ** happy was he who had reserved since morn any small piece of leather whereof to mak« his supper, drinking after it a good draught of water for his greatest com- fort." Their mode of preparing this tough meal deserves to be noticed. The skins were first sliced, then alternately dipped in water and beat between two stones to render them tender; lastly, the remaining hair was scraped off, and the morsel broiled, cut into small bits, and deliberately chewed, with fire- quent mouthfuls of water to eke out and lengthen the repast. On the fifth day, at another deserted ambuscade, a little maize was found, and also some wheat, wine, and plantains. ^^^^ . This, scanty as it was, proved a seasonable supply to those flMF who drooped, and it was thriftily dealt out among them. Next ^^ day a barn full of maize was discovered, which, beating down the door, the famished Bucaniers rushed upon and devoured without any preparation. Yet all this hardship could not turn them aside from the scent of prey, though symptoms of dis- content became visible in their ranks. At a village called Cruz, perceiving from a distance a great smoke, they joyfully prom- ised themselves rest and refreshments; but on reaching it found no inhabitant, and every house either burnt down or in flames, so determined were the Spaniards to oppose the on- / ward march of the terrible beings, presented to their imagina- tions under every shape of horror. The only animals remain- ing, the dogs and cats of the village, fell an immediate sacrifice to the wolfish hunger of the Bucaniers. Morgan had now some difficulty in preserving discipline, and in keeping his companions or foUowers from falling into the hands of the Spaniards or Indians when straggling about in search of any thing they could devour. In this way one man was lost. They were now within eight leagues of Panama, and the nearer they approached, the more anxious and vigilant was Morgan in looking out for the threatened ambuscades of the enemy, who, he naturally conjectured, might have retired to consolidate his forces. On the eighth day, they were surpri- sed by a shower of Indian arrows poured upon them from some unseen quarter, and advancing into the woods, main- tained a sharp short contest with a par^ of Indians, many of whom fell, offering ^ brave though vain resiftanee. Ten of 11 118 WILLIAM DAMPIER. the freebooters were killed in this skirmish. The Bucaniers, who had already three Indian guides, run-aways found in Santa Katalina, endeavoured at this place to make some pris- oners for the purpose of procuring inteUigence ; but the In- dians were too swift of foot. After another twenty-four hour? of suffering, under which only freebooters or Indians could have borne up, on the morn- ing of the ninth day of the march, from a high mountain, the majestic South Sea was joyfully descried, with ships and boats sailing upon its bosom, and peacefully setting out from the concealed port of Panama. Herds of cattle, horses, and asses, feeding in the valley below the eminence on which they stood, formed a sight not less welcome. They rushed to the feast ; and, cutting up the animals, devoured their flesh half- raw, " more resembling cannibals than Europeans at this ban- quet, the blood many times running down from their beards unto the middle of their bodies.'* This savage meal being ended the journey was resumed, Morgan still endeavouring to gain information by taking pris- oners, as on his whole line of march he had obtained speech of neither Spaniard nor Indian. In the same evening the steeple of Panama was beheld at a distance; and, forgetting all their sufferings, the Bucaniers gave way to the most raptuious exultation, tossing their caps into the air, leaping, shouting, beating their drums, and sound- ing their trumpets at the sight of so glorious a plunder, and as if victory were already consummated. They encamped for the night near the city, intending to make the assault early in the morning. The same night a party of fifty Spanish horse- men came out as if to reconnoitre, advanced within rausket- shot of the pirates, scornfully challenged "the dogs" to come on, and then retired, leaving six or eight of their number to watch the enemy's motions. Upon this the great guns of the town began to play on the camp, but were too distant, or ill directed, to do any execution ; and instead of betraying alarm, the Bucaniers, having placed sentinels around their, camp, made another voracious meal preparatory to the next day's business, threw themselves upon the grass, and, lulled by the Spanish artillery, slept soundly till the dawn. The camp was astir betimes, and the men being mustered and arrayed, with drums and trumpets sounding they advanced towards the city ; but instead of taking the ordinary route, which the Spaniards wtio prepared to defend, by the advice of one of the Indian guides they struck through a wood, by a tangled and difficult path, in which, however, immediate ob^ itriustipn could not be apprehended. Before the Spaniards WILLIAM DAMPIER. 119 he Bucaniers, ays found in ike some pris- ; but the In- under which I on the morn- tnountain, the liips and boats out from the , horses, and on which they rushed to the eir flesh half- is at this ban- 1 their beards was resumed, y taking pris- ined speech of IS beheld at a he Bucaniers ing their caps s, and sound- binder, and as encamped for sault early in panish horse- thin musket- )gs" to come ir number to it guns of the distant, or ill ay ing alarm, their, camp, e next day's lulled by the ng mustered ley advanced linary route, the advice wood, by a imediate ob<- e Spaniards ft* could counteract this unexpected movement, the Bucaniers had advanced some way. The Governor of Panama, who led the forces commanded two hundred cavalry and four regi- ments of infantry ; and a number of Indian auxiliaries con- ducted an immense herd of wild bulls, to be driven among the ranks of the Bucaniers, and which were expected to throw iliem into disorder. This extraordinary arm of war w as view- ed by the hunters of Hispaniola and Campeachy with indiffer- ence ; but they were somewhat alarmed at the regular and imposing array of the troops drawn up to receive them. It was, however, too late to retreat. They divided into three de- tachments, two hundred dexterous marksmen leading the ad- vance. They now stood on the top of a little eminence, whence t'xe whole Spanish force, the city, and the champaign country around were distinctly seen. As they moved down- ward the Spanish cavalry, shouting Viva el Rey^ immediately advanced to meet them ; but the ground happened tn be soft and marshy, which greatly obstructed the manoeuvres of the horsemen. The advance of the Bucaniers, all picked marks- men, knelt and received them with a volley, and the conflict instantly became close and hot. The Bucaniers, throwing tliemselves between the Spanish horse and foot, succeeded in separating them, and the wild bulls, taking fright from the tu- mult and the noise of the guns, ran away, or were shot by the Bucaniers before they could effect any mischief. After a contest of two hours the Spanish cavalry gave way. Many were killed, and the rest fled ; which the foot-soldiers perceiving, fired their last charge, threw down their muskets, and followed the example of the cavaliers. Some of them took refuge in the adjoining thickets ; and though the Buca- niers did not condnue the pursuit, they took a savage pleasure in shooting without mercy all who accidentally feU into their hands. In this way several priests and friars who were made prisoners were pistolled by the orders of Morgan. A Spanish ofllicer who was made prisoner gave the Bucaniers minute in- telligence of the force of the enemy and the plan of defence, which enabled them to approach the town from the safest point ; but the advance was still attended with difliculty. After the rout which had taken place in the open field-, pjid the slaughter which fi)llowed, the Bucaniers rested for a litiie space, and during this pause solemnly pUghted their honour, by oaths to each other, never to yield while a single man re- mained alive. This done, carrying their prisoners with them, they advanced upon the great guns planted in the streets and the hasty defences thrown up to repel them. In this resewed assault the Bucaniers suffered severely before tbey couMmake 120 WILLIAM OAMPIKR. I ■< U a pa H S H b. O W u -«! H H •< WILLIAM DAHPIER. 121 fii. < ■< ■< 6. S5 O « M u s n H s O M u •< f- H < good those close quarters in which they ever maintained a de- cided superiority in fighting. Still they resolutely advanced to the final grapple, the Spaniards keeping up an incessant fire. The town was gained after a desperate conflict of three hours maintained in its open streets. In this assault the Bucaniers neither gave nor accepted quarter, and the carnage on both sides was great. Six hun- dred Spaniards fell on that day, nor was the number of the Bucaniers who pc rished much less ; but to those who survived 1^ a double share of plunder was at all times ample consolation for the loss of companions whose services were no longer re- quired in its acquisition. The city was no sooner gained than Morgan, who saw the temper of the inhabitants in the obsti- nate nature of the resistance they had ofl«red, and who well knew the besetting sins of his followers, prudently prohibited them from tasting wine ; and aware that such an order would be very little regarded were it enforced by nothing save a sim- ple command, he afiirmed that he had received private intelli- gence that all the wine had been poisoned. They were there- fore enjoined not to touch it under the dread of poisoning and the penalties of discipline. Neither of these motives were sufficient to enforce rigid abstinence among the Bucaniers, though they operated till indulgence became more safe. As soon as possession of the city was gained guards were placed, and at the same time fires broke out simultaneously in different quarters, which were attributed by the Spaniards to the pirates, and by them to the inhabitants. Both assisted in endeavouring to extinguish the dreadful conflagration, which raged with fury ; but the houses, being built of cedar, caught the flames like tinder, and were consumed in a very short time. The inhabitants had previously removed or concealed the most valuable part of their goods and furniture. The city of Panama consisted of about twelve thousand houses, many of them large and magnificent. It contained also eight monasteries and two churches, all richly furnished. The concealment of the church-plate drew upon the ecclesias- tics the peculiar vengeance of the heretical Bucaniers, who, however, spared no one. The conflagration which they could not arrest, they seemed at last to tike a savage dehght in spreading. A slave factory belonging to the Genoese was burnt to the ground, together with many warehouses stored with meal. Many of the miserable Africans whom the Geno- ese brought for sale to Peru, perished in the flames, which raged or smouldered for nearly four weeks. For some time the Bucaniers, afraid >o^ being surprised and overpowered by the Spaniards, whaiatill reckoned ten for one 11» Ii22 WILLIAM DAMFYER. i; of their nainbers, encamped without the town. Morgan had alio weakened his force by sending a hundred and fifty men back to Chagre with news of his victory^ Yet by this handful of men the panic-struck Spaniards were held in check and subjection while the Bucaniers either raged hke demons througli the burning town or prowled among the ruins and ashes in search of plate and other valuable articles. The property which the Spaniards had concealed in deep wells and cisterns was nearly all discovered, and the most ac- tive of the Bucaniers were sent out to the woods and heights to search for and drive back the miserable inhabitants who had fled from the city with their effects. In two days they brought in about two hundred of the fugitives as prisoners^ Of those unhappy persons many were females, who found the merciless ;'*|v Bucaniers no better than their fears had painted them. .*- In plundering the land Morgan had not neglected the sea. By sea many of the principal inhabitants had escaped, and a .< boat was immediately sent in pursuit, which brought in three priiws; though a galleon, in which was embarked all the plate and jewels belonging to the King of Spain, and the wealth of the principal nunnery of the town, escaped^from the Bucaniers indulging in a brutal revel in their own bark till it was too late to follow and capture the ship. The pursuit was afterward continued for four days, at the end of which the Bucaniers returned to Panama with another prize, worth twenty thou- sand pieces of eight in goods, from Paita. Meanwhile, on the opposite coast, the ships* companies left s^ Chagre were exercising their vocation, and had captured one large Spanish vessel, which, unaware of the hands into which the castle had fallen, ran in under it for protection. Nothing more was to be wrung forth from Panama, which, after a destructive sojourn of four weeks, Morgan resolved to leave. Beasts of burden were therefore collected from all quarters to convey the spoils to the opposite coast. The can- non were spiked, and scouts sent out to learn what measures had been taken by the Governor of Panama to intercept the return to Chagre. The Spaniards were too much depressed to have made any preparation either to anno^ or cut off the retreat of their inveterate enemies ; and on the 24th of Febru- ary the Bucaniers, apprehensive of no opposition, left the ruins of Panama, with a hundred and seventy-five mules la- den with their spoils, and above six hundred prisoners, includ- ing women, children, and slaves. The misery of these wretch- ed captives, driven on in the midst of the armed Bucaniers, exceeds description. They believed that they were all to be carried to Jamaica, England, or some equally wild, distant, WILLIAM DAMPIKR. 123 and savage coantry, to be sold for slaves ; and the cruel craft of Morgan heightened these fears, the more readily to extort the ransom he demanded for the freedom of his unhappy pris- oners. In vain the women threw themselves at his feet sup- plicating for the mercy of being allowed to remain amid the ruins of their former homes, or in the woods in huts with their husbands and children. His answer was, " that he came not here to listen to cries and lamentations, but to get money, which unless he obtained he would assuredly carry them all where they would little hke to go/* Three days were granted, in which they might avail themselves of the conditions of ransom. Several were happy enough to be able to redeem themselves, or were rescued by the contributions sent in ; and with the re- maining captives the pirates pushed onward, making new prisoners and gathering fresh spoils on their way. The conduct of Morgan at this time disproves many of the extravagant notions propagated about the high honour of the Bucaniers in their dealings with each otherr Halting at a convenient place for his purpose, in the midst of the wilder^ ness, and about half-way to Chagre, he drew up his comrades, and insisted that, besides taking an oath declaring that all plunder had been surrendered to the common stock, each man should be searched, he himself submitting in the first place to the degrading scrutiny, though it was suspected that the lead- ing motive of the whole manoeuvre was the desire of conceal- ing his own peculation and fraudulent deaUng with his asso- ciates. The French Bucaniers who accompanied the expedi- tion were indignant at treatment so much at variance with the maxims and usages of the gentlemen rovers ; but being the weaker party they were compelled to submit. The Bucaniers and their prisoners performed the remainder of the journey by water ; and when arrived at Chagre, Morgan, who knew not how to dispose of his unredeemed prisoners, shipped them all off for Porto Bello, making them the bearers of his demand of ransom from the governor of that city for the castle of Chagre. To this insolent message the Governor of Porto Bello repUed, that Morgan might make of the castle what he pleased ; not a ducat should be given for its ransom. There was thus no immediate prospect of any more plunder in this quarter, and nothing remained to be done but to divide the spoils ah-eady acquired. The individual shares fell so far short of the expectations of the Bucaniers that they openly grumbled, and accused their chief of the worst crime of which in their eyes he could be guilty, — secreting the richest of the jewels for himself. Two hundred pieces of eight to eae}-. man was thought a ver' small return for the plunder of so wealthy 134 WILLIAM DAMPIER. a city, and a very trifling reward for the toil and danger that had been undergone in assaulting it. Matters were assuming so serious an aspect among the fraternity that Morgan, wfio knew the temper of his friends, deemed it advisable to steal away with what he had obtained. He immediately made the walls of Chagre be destroyed, carried the guns on board his own ship, and, followed by one or two vessels commanded by persons in his confidence, sailed for Jamaica, leaving his en- raged associates in want of every necessary. Those who fol- lowed him were all Englishmen, who, as the French Bucaniers fully believed, connived at the frauds and shared in the gains of Morgan. They would instantly have pursued him to sea, and the Spaniards might have enjoyed the satisfaction of see- ing the Bucanier fleet divided and fighting against itself, had they with a force so much weaker, dared to venture so un- equal an encounter. The vessels deserted by Morgan sepa- rated here, and the companies sought their fortunes in diflferent quarters, none of them much the richer for the misery and devastation they had carried to Panama. Morgan, on arriving at Jamaica laden with plunder, and ex- ulting in his late exploit, endeavoured once more to levy re- cruits for the independent state he still longed to establish at Santa Katalina, and of which he himself, already admiral and generalissimo of the Bucaniers, was to be the prince or gov- ernor. But circumstances were still unfavourable. Lord John Vaughan, the newly-appointed Governor of Jamaica, had or- ders strictly to enforce the treaty with Spain, formed in the previous year, but to proclaim pardon and indemnity, and offer a grant of lands to such of the Bucaniers, as chose to become peaceful cultivators. Future depredations on the trade or settlements of Spain were forbidden by the royal proclamation, and under severe penalties. But it was not a proclamation, however strongly worded, that could at once tame down the lawless Bucanier into a planter, or confine to thirty-seven acres of ground him who had for years freely roamed through sea and land, with his sword reaping his harvest wherever men of greater industry had sown it. To adopting the habits of peaceful life many of the English Bucaniers preferred joinin~ the Flibustiers at Tortuga, or becoming logwood-cutters in the Bay of Campeachy ; and, luckily for the remainder, in the next year a war broke out between Great Britain and Holland, which enabled some of them to follow their old vocation as privateers ; Bucaniers and Flibustiers alike exercising their industry for a short time against the Dutch instead of their old enemies the Spaniards. mm WILLIAM DAMPIER. 125 Before quitting this part of the subject, it may be proper to notice the conclusion of the adventures of the notorious Mor- gan. In the year which elapsed between the plunder of Pana- ma and 1680, he had sufficient address and interest, or, more probably, skill in the appUance of his ill-gotten wealth, to obtain from Charles II. the honour of knighthood, and after- ward to be appointed deputy-governor of Jamaica. Though it was believed that he still secretly shared in the plundering adventures of the Bucaniers, Morgan treated many of his old comrades with very great severity. Several of them were hang- ed under his administration, and others hedehvered up to the Spaniards at Carthagena, as was believed, for the price of blood ; nor does the character of Morgan make this suspicion improbable. The strict justice and severity exercised by the deputy-governor on his old friends and countrymen, did not, however, dispose the Spaniards to unlimited confidence in Morgan ; and suspecting him of secretly favouring the Buca- niers, who had once more increased, they were able, after the accession of James II., to get him removed from his office and committed for a time to prison in England. In 1683, the Bucaniers, led by three noted chiefs, Van Horn, Grammont, and Laurent de Graff, by a stratagem took the city of Vera Cruz in the Gulf of Mexico. Many of the English Bucaniers were engaged in this expedition, though none of them held high command. This was reckoned the most brill- iant exploit that had yet been achieved by the Flibustiers. Their mode of attack was similar to that which had been Practised by Drake a century before. In the darkness of night 'sufficient force was landed, which marched three leagues over land, and before dawn surprised and captured the city. The inhabitants were shut up in the churches, the usual prison of the Bucaniers, at the door of each ef which barrels of gun- powder were placed, and sentinels beside them holding a light- ed match, ready to produce an explosion at a moment's notice, or on the slightest symptom of revolt. The city was thus pil- laged without molestation from the inhabitants ; and the fam- ished prisoners in the churches were afterward glad to pur- chase their freedom on any terms their conquerers chose to dictate. Ten millions of livres were demanded as a ransom, and the half of it had been raised and paid in, when the ap- pearance of a body of troops and a fleet of seventeen ships caused the freebooters to make a precipitate but well-ordered retreat, carrying off 1500 slaves. Loaded with their booty and prisoners, they boldly sailed through the fleet sent to at- tack them, which did not venture to fire a single gun. They might probaUy have roused the Spaniards from their fear or * 126 WILLIAM DAMPIER. lethargy by an assault, had they not been more careful to pre* serve the plunder they had obtained, than desirous of a barren naval victory over ships carrying no cargoes. Fortunately for the freedom and repose of the Spanish colo- nists, no Bucanier corps ever agreed, or acted in harmony, for any length of time. Their lawless unions fell to pieces even mofe rapidly than they were formed ; and those of the French and English seldom adhered even to the conclusion of a joint expedition. On the present occasion they separated in wrath, the Frenchmen employing the pretext of the quarrel they artfu'ly fomented to withhold the Englishmen's share of the pillage. The latter cruises of the Bucaniers were in few respects distinguished by the honour and integrity among themselves which were said to have marked their first exploits. The French Flibustier now sought but a shallow excuse to plunder the English Bucanier, who, on the other side, lost no opportunity of retaliation. The tardy though now earnest efforts of France and Brit- ain to crush the brethren of the coast, the increasing military and maritime strength of the Spanish colonists, and above all a field too narrow and exhausted for the numerous labourers, together with wild and magnificent ideas of the wealth of Peru, were so many powerful motives urging the Bucaniers, whether French or English, upon enterprises in a new and wider region. Among them an estimate was formed of the riches of the west- ern shores, from the single circumstance, that in a few years after the visit of Morgan, a new city of Panama had arisen, which in splendour and wealth eclipsed the desolated tows. The Peruvian coast and the South Sea, in all their riches ana extent, presented a field which neither the long arm of France, nor the powerful hand of England could reach ; and of the opposition to be feared from the indolent and effeminate in- habitants the expedition of Morgan had afforded a very satis- factory specimen. In the new design of crossing the conti- nent, and searching for untried regions of conquest and spoUa- tion, the Bucaniers were rather urged by personal motives of rapacity, and the desire of escaping from the colonial officials of the West India islands — who latterly either shared their booty or treated them with great severity, and not unfrequent- ly did both — ^than influenced by any enlightened or compre- hensive plan of operations. The wealth of this new region and the ease with which it might be acquired were primary reasons ; personal security was merely secondary ; and be- yond these motives this chaotic banditti never once looked ; all their ideas of conquest being limited to the plunder of a city or a ship, to plate, silks, and pieces of eight ; nor were their WILLIAM DAMPIER. 197 eminate in- enjoyments and pleasures of a more liberal or elevated kind. We may therefore without much regret here close this general sketch of the Bucaniers. All that is interesting in their subse- quent career, from the plundering of Vera Cruz in the Bay of Mexico to their decay and suppression, is closely interwoven with the personal adventures of Dampier, on which we are now to enter. Captain Dampier was bom about 1652, at East Coker, near Yeovil, a considerable market-town in Somersetshire. His father was probably a farmer ; and we learn incidentally that his mother, when a widow, along with whatever other property she might possess, held the lease of a small farm at East Coker from Colonel Hellier, the lord of the manor. Before the death of his parents, which happened while he was very young, Dampier had begun to receive the elements of a classical education ; but on this event taking place his studies were suspended, and he was sent to acquire writing and arithmetic, to qualify him for some humbler employment than might have been originally designed ; and in a short time -after the death of his mother, he was placed with a shipmaster belonging to Weymouth. Slender as his advantages of early education appear to have been, he profited so largely by them as to afford one more proof that the best part of a man's learn- ing is that which he acquires by himself. ^ William Dampier's first voyage was to France, his nwrt to Newfoundland, in wliich he suffered so severely from the cli- mate, that he almost resolved against returning to sea; but this determination was changed into a resolution not to try the same ungenial quarter. Dampier, now about eighteen, was already animated by the restless activity, the curiosity, love of vicissitude, adventure, and peril, which form the strong and marking characteristics of the youth who is born a seaman. " The offer," he says, " of a long voyage and a warm one soon carried me to sea again." He entered as a foremast-man on board the Martha, East Indiaman, which sailed direct from London to Bantam; from whence, after a stay of two months, he returned witliin little more than the year. From his early childhood Dampier had been a keen observer. On his former voyages he had gained some nautical experience, which he en- larged during the present, diligently studying the practical part of his profession, though he had not yet commenced a journal, the keeping of which came to be the solace of his roaming unconnected life, and the means of great mental im- provement 128 WILLIAM UAMPIER. The summer after his return from India, Dampier spent with his brother in Somersetshire, whose house in early life seems to have been his home while on shore. His next service was on board the Royal Prince^ in which he enlisted, England being then at war with Holland. He was in two engage- ments ; but of a third fought by the ship, in which the com- mander, Sir Edward Sprague, was killed, he was not a wit- ness, having previously fallen into bad health. From the ship he was sent to Harwich hospital, and finally to his brother's, where he slowly recovered. With returning health the love of the sea recurred ; but Dampier meanwhile accepted the offer of Colonel Hellier, and went to Jamaica as under-manager of a plantation belonging to that gentleman, forming a special agreement with the cap- tain to protect himself from the frauds of the kidnappers. The ship went " merrily along,*' steering for Barbadoes, which was the first of the islands that Dampier beheld. He was at this time twenty-two years of age, active, intelligent, and full of an instinctive curiosity, already under the guidance of a strong, clear, and prompt understanding. As a planter Dampier was " clearly out of his element ;" and ader spending some time in this ungenial occupation, he engaged with different traders belonging to Port Royal, who coasted round Jamaica, carrying goods from the plantations to that port. In these coasting voyages he became thoroughly acquainted with all the harbours and bays of the island, and with the land and sea winds and currents. Availing himself of every opportunity and means of acquiring knowledge, Dam- pier appears through life to have become wearied of every scene the moment he had exhausted the information it afford- ed, and to have longed for change as soon as he had over-mas- tered its difficulties. His next voyage, undertaken in August, 1675, was to the island of Trist, in the Bay of Campeachy, for a cargo of logwood. In these late voyages he acted in the capacity of a common sailor in a small ves'^el; but he now kept a regular journal, and was no common observer. On this voyage to Campeachy his nautical remarks and observa- tions on the appearances and bearings of the coasts, the head- lands, bays, and islands, are ample and exact,— distinguished by the clearness and perspicuity which are visible in all his subsequent relations. They anchored at One-Bush-Key, an islet about a mile from the shore, and so named from having! single stunted tree. The life of the logwood-cutters of the Bay of Campeachy, free and unfestrained, had many charms for the young adven- WILLIAM DAMPIEB. 129 Dampier spent ise in early life lis next service listed, England 1 two engage- f hich the com- tvas not a wit- From the ship his brother's, recurred; but lel Hellier, and tion belonging t with the cap- nappers. The oes, which was He was at this , and full of an ice of a strong, his element ;" occupation, he •rt Royal, who i plantations to ne thoroughly he island, and vaihng himself )wledge. Dam- Etfied of every ation it afford- had over-mas- ken in August, ampeachy, for acted in the but he now observer. On s and obserra- asts, the head- -distinguisbed dble in all his Bush-Key, an from having* * Campeachy, young adven- h turer, and their jovial manners and frank hospitality, with the lucrative nature of the occupation of these merry foresters, made him resolve to return and join their ranks as soon as his present engagement terminated. Logwood-cutting had now in many instances taken place of the hunting of wild cattle, which were become scarce. Some adventurers pursued both vocations, and others were wood- cutters alone. A third class occasionally added the variety and profit of a privateering cruise to their quieter employments. The logwood-cutters in the Bay of Campeachy at this time amounted to about two hundred and fifty men, mostly natives of England, though there were also Scotchmen and Irishmen among their number. By Spain they were considered inter- lopers, and the trade contraband; but this did not much disturb their consciences. Their general practice was to make up a cargo in joint stock companies, the partnership lasting till the contract for the number of tons agreed on was completed. The traders who bought the dye-wood carried the wood- cutters rum, sugar, tobacco, and other things necessary to them. The trade was usually opened by a solemn drinking- match on board the ships, where healths were pledged, and salvoes fired in honour of each pledge, with all the customary demonstrations of Bucanier banqueting. The trader who was the most liberal of his rum-punch on such festive occasions might assure himself of the best bargain of logwood; the cut- ters priding themselves upon cheating those they thought nig- gardly of their liquor and good cheer. While taking in the cargo Dampier was often on shore, and frequently visited the cabins of the woodmen, who hospitably entertained him with the rough substantial fare which abound- ed among them, — pork and pease, — or beef, for which they hunted in the savannas, — with doughboys, a kind of thick un- leavened cake, which, when on shore, the Bucaniers and hunt- ers often kneaded for themselves. They were equally profuse ^f their liquor while the supply lasted. The returning voyage of Dampier to Jamaica was singular- ly disastrous, and between Trist and Port-Royal the passage occupied thirteen weeks. Of the adventures and perils of this voyage he has left a very lively account. A passenger who returned with them to Jamaica — a prisoner who had escaped from the Spaniards — from his experience of this coast, was the means of saving them from being captured by a Spanish vessel, which gave chase to their bark. Though the crew had both fished and hunted at several places before they reached Jamaica, they were during most part of the passage greatly pinched for provisions ; and on coming to anchor after so many 12 • 130 WILLIAM DAMPIER. hardships, they sent ashore for a supply, made a feast, and were just compounding a flowing bowl of punch, when the captain of a New-England trader came on board to visit them, and was invited to share in the carouse. What follows is an amusing trait of the nautical manners of the place and time:— '* Mr. Hooker, being drank to by Captain Rawlins, who pledg- ed Captain Hudswell, and having the bowl in his hands, said that he was under an oath to drink but three draughts of stron;; liquor in one day, and putting the bowl to his head turned it off at one draught, and so making himself drunk, disappointed our expectations till we made another bowl. I think it might contain six quarts." As soon as he was discharged, Dampier returned to the Bay of Campeachy, to try his fortunes among the logwood-cutters. Preparatory to this voyage he had provided himself with hatchets, knives, axes, saws, wedges, the sleeping-pavilion ne- cessary for defence against the insects in this climate, and a gun, with a supply of powder and shot. A power of attorney, lodged with a merchant M'ho acted as factor for the logwood- cutters, completed his arrangements. The logwood forest in which the men laboured who were joined by Dampier was on the west lagune of Trist Island, in the Bay of Campeachy. The first wood-cutters were men who had adopted this oc- cupation when bucanicring was overdone from the number of competitors, and become dangerous from prohibitory edicts. They originally settled near the forests of the dye-wood at Cape Catoch. When these were exhausted they had removed to the Isle of Trist; — the first intimation to the Spaniards of their arrival on a new point being the strokes of their axes on the trees, or the report of their guns in the woods and savan- nas. These wood-cutters were divided into parties of from three to ten or twelve. The company which consented to re- ceive Dampier as a helper, ignorant as he still was of their em- ployment, consisted of six individuals, who had a cargo of logwood of a hundred tons already felled and chipped, and ready to be brought to the creek, whence it was to be shipped for New England. His wages were to be the price of a ton of wood per month. The wood-cutters had constructed their cabins close by the sides of the creeks of the east and west lagunes of Trist, for the enjoyment of the refreshing sea-breezes, and to be as near the dyewood-groves as was found convenient. As the nearest trees gradually fell beneath their axes, they frequently, instead of abandoning a favourite habitation, repaired to the scene of their daily labours in their canoes. To each company belong- WILLIAM DAMPIER. 131 cd a canoe, pirogue, or large boat, which was necessary in conveying their lading to the traders, and also in the chase ; for they hunted cattle by water as well as land, for this purpose driving them into narrow creeks. Their cabins were of fra- gile construction, but thickly thatched with palm-leaves, to ithelter the inmates from the violent rains of the wet season. Above the floor a wooden frame was raised three or four feet, and this barbecue^ with the pavilion or mosquito-curtains stretched and supported over it, formed the sleeping-place of the wood-cutters ; another, equal in height, covered with earth, formed the domestic hearth ; and a third served as seats. The logwood-groves were near the sea, — this wood grow- ing and thriving best in low wet ground, and among timber of u lower growth. The trees were from two to six feet in cir- cumference. They resembled the white thorn of England, save in size. The heart of the trunk, which is red, is alone used as a dye-stuff, the spongy outer part being chipped away. it is a heavy wood, and burns well ; and for this reason the hunters, wood-cutters, and Bucaniers always, when it could be obtained, preferred it for hardening the steel of their fire-arms. Bloodwood, another dye-stuff much esteemed, was found in the Gulf of Nicaragua, and sold at double the price of the logwood, — the latter selling at fifteen pounds* per ton, when the bloodwood cost thirty pounds. In these savannas and primeval forests an endless variety of birds and insects engaged the attention of the young sea- man, to which we cannot now advert. The creeks, rivers, and lagunes, as well as the open shores, were equally prolific of fishes unknown in the English waters. No place in the world was better stored with alligators than the Bay of Cam- peachy. These the Bucaniers, who scrupled at no sort of food, never ate, save in cases of great necessity, as even their intrepid stomachs were offended by the strong musky flavour of the flesh of this hideous creature. The alligators of the bay were generally harmless when not molested; though accidents sometimes occurred, of which one is recorded by Dampier that merits notice. In the height of the dry season, when in those torrid regions all animated nature pants with consuming thirst, a party of the wood-cutters, English and Irish, went to hunt in the neighbourhood of a Jake called Pies Pond, in Beef Island, one of the smaller islands of the bay. To this pond ^ / Valuable as this wood was, the French Bucaniers who captured Cam- ?.®!^^°"°T.°*'*'"*'°"' displayed their enthusiastic loyalty by bnminir i.42,000 worth m celebrating the birthday of their king, or the festival of St. 132 W^ILLIAM DAMPIER. the wild cattle repaired in herds to drink, and here the hunters lay in wait for them. The chase had been prosecuted with great success for a week, when an Irishman of the party, go- ing into the water during the day, stumbled upon an alhgator, which seized him by the kner. His cries alarmed his com- panions, who, fearing that he had been seized by the Spaniards, to whom the island belonged, and who chose the dry season to hunt, and repel their unwelcome neighbours, instead of affording assistance, fled from the huts which they had erect- ed. The Irishman, seeing no appearance of help, with happy presence of mind quietly waited till the allig or loosened its teeth to take a new and »urer hold; and w en it did so, snatched away his knee, interposing the butt-ena of his gun iu its stead, which the animal seized so firmly that it was jerked out of the man's hand and carried off. He then crawled up a neighbouring tree, again shouting after his comrades, who now found courage to return. His gun was found next day, drag- ged ten or twelve paces from iae place where it had been seiz- ed by the alligator. At the same place. Pies Pond in Beef Island, Dampier had a remarkable escape from an alligator.. Passing with some of his comrades through a small savanna, where the water lay two or three feet deep, in search of a bullock to shoot for sup- per, a strong scent of an alligator was perceived, and presently Dampier stumbled over one and fell down. He cried out for help, but his companiom ran towards the woods to save them- selves. No sooner had he scrambled up to follow them, than in the agitation of the moment he fell a second and even a third time, expe^-ting every instant to be devoured, and yet escaped trntouched ; but he candidly says, " I was so frighted, that I never cared to go through the water again as long as I was in the Bay." On the first Saturday after he commenced wood-cutter, Dampier followed his employers m the humble capacity of raising and driving the cattle out of the sai annas into tlie woods, where the hunters lay in wait to shoot them. The following Saturday his ambition took a higher flight. He thought it more honourable to have a shot himself than to drive the game for others; and, after going five miles by wa- ter and one by land, to the hunting-ground, he gave his com- f)anions the slip, and rambled so far into the woodc that he lost limself, going at every step farther astray through small strips of savanna and skirts of woodland — a maze of plain ana forest which seemed interminable. The rest of this youthful adven- ture, from which Dampier drew a beneficial lesson for the WILLIAM DAMPIER. regulation of his future life, cannot be better narrated than in his own words. " This was in May (the dry season,) and it was between ten o'clock and one when I began to find that I was, as we call it, marooned, or lost, and quite out of the hearing of ray coratades' puns. I was somewhat surprised at this; but, however, I knew that I should find my way out as soon as the sun was a little lower. So I sat down to rest myself, resolving, however, to run no further out of nrty way, for the sun being so near the zenith I could not distinguish hcv to direct my course. Being weary, and almost faint for want of water, I was forced to have recourse to the wild pines, and was by them supplied, or else I must have perished with thirst. About three o'clock I went due north, or as near as I could judge, for the savanna lay east and west, and 1 was on the south side of it. " At sunset T got out into the clear open savanna, being about two leagues wide in most places, but how long I know not. It is well stored with bullocks, hut by frequent hunting they grow shy, and reriove farther up into tb j country. There I found myself four or five miles to the west of the place where I had straggled from my companions. I made homeward I with all the speed I could; but being overtaken by the night, I I lay down on the grass a good distance from the woods, for the > benefit of the wind to keep the mosquitoes from me ; but in vain, foi' in less than an hour's time I was so persecuted, that though I eudervoured to keep them off by fanning myself with boughs, and t;]li.jiling my quarters thre^ or four times, yet still they so haunted me that I could get no sleep. At daybreak I got up and directed my course to the creek where we landed, from which I was then about two leagues. I did not see one beast of any sort whatever in all the way, though the day be- fore I saw several young calves that could not follow their dams ; but even these were now gone away, to my great vexa- tion and disappointment, for I was very hungry. But, about a mile farther, I espied ten or twf Ive quaums perching on the boughs of a cotton-tree. These were not shy ; therefore I go: well under them, and having a single bullet, b^it ro shot, about me, fired at one of them and missed it, thougn 1 had often be- fore killed them so. Then I came up with aitid fired at five or six turkeys with no better success, so that I was forced to march forward, still in the savanna, towards the creek; and when I came to the path that led to it through the woods, I found to my great joy a hat stuck upon a pole, and when I came to the creek another. These were set up by my con- Horts, who had gone home in the evening, as signals that they would come and fetch me. Therefore I sat down and waited 12* 134 WILLIABI DAMPIER, for them ; for although I had not above three leagues home bj water, yet it would have been very difficuh, if not impossible, for me to have got thither overland, by reason of those vast impassable thickets abounding every where along the creek'« side, wherein I have known some puzzled for two or three days, and have not advanced half a mile, although they la- boured extremely every day. Neither was I disappointed of my hopes, for within half an hour after my arrival in the creek my consorts came, bringing every man his bottle of water and his gun, both to hunt for game and to give me notice by firing, that I might hear them ; for I have known several men lost in the like manner, and never heard of afterward." When his first month's service was ended, Dampier re- ceived as pay the price of a ton of wood, with which he bought provisions, and entered into a new engagement, on the footing of comradeship, but with other partners. Of the former com- pany to which he had been attached, some went to Beef Island to hunt bullocks for their skins, which they prepared for sale by pegging them strongly down to the grouud. turiiiz-i first the fleshy and then the hairy side uppermost, till they were perfectly dry. It required thirty-two pegs, each as thick as a man's arm, to stretch one hide ; afterward they were hung in heaps upon a pole, that they might not touch the ground, and from time to time well beat with sticks to drive out the worms which bred in the skins and spoiled them. Before being shipped off they were soaked in salt water to kill the remain- ing worms. While still wet they were folded up, left thus for ii time, and once mure thoroughly dried and packed for ex- portation. To this trade Dampier preferred wood-cutting. His part- ners were three Scotchmen, Price Morrice, Duncan Campbell, and a third, who is called by his 0!.ristian-name of George only. The two latter were persons of education, who had been bred merchants, and liked neither the employment nor the society of the bay ; they therefore only waited the 6r5t oppor- tunity of getting away by a logwood-ship. The first vessel that arrived was from Boston, and this tHey freighted with forty tons of diewood, which it was agreed Duiican Campbell should go to New-England to sell, bringing back flour and other things suited to the market of the bay, to exchange for hides and logwood ; while George remained making up a fresh cargo against Campbell's return. And here Dampier makes an observation on the character of his associates which de- serves to be noticed as the result of the experience of a man who had seen and reflected much upon life and manners. " This," he says, *' retarded our business, for I did not find ■'.. WILLIAM DABfPIGR^ 135 acked for ex- Price Morrice very intent on work ; for 'tis like he thought he had logwood enough. And I have particulaily observed there, and in other places, that such as had been well-bred were generally most careful to improve their time» and would be very industrious and frugal when there was any probability of considerable gain. But, on the contrury, such as had been inured to hard labour, and got their living by the sweat of their >>rows, in^hen they came to have fhnty, would extravagantly squander away their time and money in drinking and making a bluster." To make up for the indolence o£ his comrade Dampier kept the closer to work himself till attacked by a very singular dis- ease. A red and ill-conditioned sweUing or bile broke out upon bis right leg, which he was directed to poultice with the roasted roots of the white lily. This he persisted in doing for some days, " when two white specs appeared in the centre of the bile, and on squeezing it two small white worms spurted out, about the thickness of a hen^s quill, and three or four inches long." These were quite different from the Guinea- worm, common in some of the West India islands, and in the time of Dampier very common in Curasao. From these last he afterward suffered severely. Shortly after bis recovery from this attack the bay was visit- ed by one of those tremendous hurricanes known only in tropi- cal countries, which raged for twenty-four hours without intermission. This was in June, 1676. Two days before the storm came on, the wind " whiffled" about to the south and back again to the east, but blew faintly, while the weather continued very fair, though it was remarked thai the men-of- wnr birds came trooping towards the shore in great numbers, and hovered over the land. The hunters and logwood-cutte'-s, iy^-i^n^ their numerous superstitions, augured the arrival of ^b*n« irom the appearance of those birds, and imagined that as ■■■,' i.uy *nrds as hovered over-head so many vessels might be eXj 3«\,etl At this time there appeared whole flocks. It w;.... noticed by Dampier, that for two days the tide kept ebbmg, till the creek by which the woodmen's huts stood was left nearly dry. In it there was commonly at ebb-tide seven or eight fed of water, but now scarcely three remained even in the deepest places. At four o'clock in the afternoon following this strange ehbing of the waters, the sky looked very black, the wind sprung up at S. E., fresh and rapidly increasing, and in less than two hours blew down all the cabins of the wood- men save one : this they propped with posts, and, as it were, aa( iiored by casting ropes over the roof, which were then made fast on both sides to the stumps of trees. In this frail I 136 WILLIAM DAMPIER. shed they all huddled together while the hurricane raged abroad. It rained in torrents during the whole period of the tempest; and in two hours after the wind had risen the water flowed so fast into the creek that it was as high as the banks. Though the wind now blew oft* shore, the waters continued to rush in, nor did the rain abate ; and by ten o'clock next morning the banks of the creek were overflowed. The situation of the woodmen now became perilously They brought their canoe to the side of the hut, and fastened it to the stump of a tree as a means of escape ; this being their only hope of safety, as beyond the banks which edged the creek the land fell, and there " was now no walking through the woods because of the water. Besides, the trees were torn up by the roots, and tumbled down so strangely across each other, that it was almost impossible to pass through them.'* In this violent ten r ' 'any fish were either casbalive upon the shore or found flou Jead in the lagunes. It was remarkable that the hurricane, ^^ was afterward ascertained, did not extend ninety miles to windward. Of four ships riding at anchor at One-Bush-Key, three were driven from their moorings, and one of them was carried up into the woods of Beef Island. The wood-cutters suffered in many ways. The whole coun- try was laid under water to a considerable depth, there being three feet even on the highest land ; so that tkey could not for some time prosecute their labours. Much of their provision was destroyed, and what remained they had no way of cook- ing save in their canoes. As soon as the storm abated, Dampier's company embarked in the canoe, and made for One-Bush-Key, about four leagues distant, hoping to procure assistance from the ships there. These, as has been noticed, had all been driven from their anchors save one ; and the kindness of the crew of this fortu- nate vessel had abeady been severely taxed by an influx of the flooded wood-cutters from different points. Dampier and his companions could get " neither bread nor punch, nor so much as a dram of rum, though they offered to pay for it." From this inhospitable quarter, they rowed for Beef Island, their singular land-mark being the flag of a ship displayed in the woods. The vessel herself was found two hundred yards from the sea, from which she had cut her way in the storm, levelling the trees on each side, and making a clear path before her through the forest. In this transit the stumps had gone through her bottom, and there was no way of saving her. Meanwhile she held together, and the forlorn woodmen were well enter- tained with victuals and punch, and invited to remain for the WILLIAM DAMPIER. 137 night ; but, hearing a signal-gun fired from a distant lagune, they concluded that one of the ships was driven in there by- distress and rowed off to her assistance. With a Captain Chandler, whom they found here greatly in want of their ser- vices, Dar )ier and his partners laboured for two days, and then went to Beef Island to hunt for cattle. This island is about seven leagues long, and in breadth from thre«; to four : at the east end " low drowned land :" the middle is one large savanna, bordered with trees ; the south side, between the savannas and the mangrove-belt or swampy ground, is very rich. The hurricane had deprived Dampier of his slender stock of provisions ; and having neither money nor credit to obtain a fresh supply from the traders who arrived from Jamaica, he was forced for immediate subsistence to join a company of " privateers" then in the bay. With these Bucaniers he con- tinued for nearly a year, rambling about the Bay of Campea- chy. visiting its numerous creeks, islands, and rivers, and making with them frequent descents upon Indian villages and Spanish settlements. At these places they obtained supplies of Indian corn, which, with the beef for which they hunted, turtle, and manatee^ formed their principal subsistence ; Dam- pier in every passing hour adding to his stores of knowledge. The manatee, or sea-cow, as seen by Dampier in the Bay of Campeachy, the river Darien, at Mandanao, and on the coast of New Holland, he describes as of the thickness of a horse, and in length ten or twelve feet. The mouth is like that of a cow, the lips are very thick, the eyes no bigger than a pea, and the ears two small holes. It frequents creeks, inlets, and mouths of rivers, and never leaves the water for any length of time. It lives on a sort of grass which grows in the sea. The flesh is white, sweet and wholesome. The tail of a young cow was esteemed a delicate morsel by the Bucaniers, and so was a sucking-calf, which they cooked by roasting. The tough, thick 'ikin of the manatee they apphed to various uses. The Mosquito Indians were peculiarly dexterous in fishing, and also in striking manatee and catching turtle ; for which purpose the Bucaniers always tried to have one or two natives of the Mosquito shore attached to their company as purveyors on their cruises. The Indians of the villages on the Tobasco lived chiefly on maize, which they baked into cakes, and from which they also made a sort of liquor, which, when allowed to sour, afforded a pleasant, refreshing draught. When a beverage for company was wanted, a little honey was mixed with thii drink. A 138 WILLIAM DAMPIER. Stronger liquor was made of parched maize and anotta, which was drunk without straining. The Indians reared abundance of turkeys, ducks, and fowls, — ^the padre taking such strict ac- count oi the tithe that it was necessary to procure his license before they durst kill one. They also raised cotton, and man- ufactured their own clothing, which for both sexes was decent and becoming. Under the sanction of the village priest all marriages were contracted ; the men marrying at fourteen, the women at twelve. If at this early age they had n ade no choice, then the padre selected for them. These early marriages were one means of securing the power and increasing the gains of the priest ; and the young couples themselves were contented, happy, and affectionate. They inhabited good houses, lived comfortably by the sweat of their brows, and on holy eves and saints' days enjoyed themselves under the direction of their spiritual guides, who permitted them the recreation of pipe and tabor, hautboys and drums, and lent them vizards and ornaments for the mummings and other amusements which they practised. The village churches were lofty compared with the ordinary dwelling-houses, and ornamented with coarse pictures of tawny or bronze-coloured saints and madonnas, lecommended to the Indians by the tint of the native com- plexion. To their good padres, notwithstanding the tithe- fowls, the Indian flocks were submissive and affectionate. We cannot here follow the minute account which Dampier has given of all the rivers of Campeachy during his cruise of eleven months around this rich country. The farthest west point which he visited was Alvarado, to which the Bucaniers with whom he sailed went in two barks, thirty men in each. The river flows through a fertile country, thickly planted with Spanish towns and Indian villages. At its mouth was a small fort placed on the declivity of a sandbank, and mounted with six guns. The sandbanks are here about two hundred feet high on both sides. This fort the Bucaniers attacked ; but it held out stoutly for five hours, during which time the country was alarmed, and the inhabitants of the adjoining town got off in their boats, carrying away all their money and valuables and the best part of their goods. The Bucaniers lost ten men killed or despe- rately wounded ; and when they landed next morning to pil- lage, it being dark before the fort yielded, little booty was found. Twenty or thirty bullocks they killed, salted, and sent on board, with salt fish, Indian corn, and abundance of poultry. They also found and brought away many tame parrots of a very beautiful kind, yellow and scarlet curiously blended, — the WILLIAM DAMPIER. 139 fairest and largest birds of their kind Dainpier ever saw in the West Indies. " They prated very prettily." Though little soUd booty was obtained, what with provis- ions, chests, hencoops and parrots' cages, the ships were filled and lumbered ; and while in this state seven Spanish armadil- loes from Vera Cruz, detached in pursuit of the Bucaniers, appeared, coming full sail over the bar into the river. Not a moment was to be lost. Clearing their decks of lumber by throwing all overboard, the Bucaniers got under full sail, and drove over the bar at the river's mouth, before the enemy, who could with difficulty stem the current, had scarcely reached it. The Spanish vessels were to windward, and a few shots were of necessity exchanged ; and now commenced one of those singular escapes from tremendous odds of strength of which Bucanier history is so full. The Toro, the admiral of the Spanish barks, was of itself more than a match for the free- booters. It carried 10 guns and 100 men, while their whole force was now diminished to 60 men in both ships, one of which carried 6, and the other 2 guns. Another of the Span- ish vessels carried 4 guns with 80 men ; and the remaining five though not mounted with great guns, had each 60 or 70 men armed with muskets. " As soon," says Dampier's journal, " as we were over the bar, we got our larboard tacks aboard, and stood to the eastward as nigh the wind as we could lie. The Spaniards came quartering on us ; and our ship being the headmost, the Toro came directly towards us, designing to board us. We kept firing at her, in hopes to have lamed cither a mast or a yard ; but failing, just as she was sheering aboard we gave her a good volley, and presently clapped the helm aweather, wore our ship, and got our starboard tacks aboard, and stood to the westward, and so lefl the Toro ; but were saluted by all the small craft as we passed them, who stood to the eastward after the Toro, that was now in pursuit and close to our consort. We stood to the westward till we were against the river's mouth, then we tacked, and by the help of the current that came out of the river we were near a mile to windward of them all. Then we made tail to assist our consort, who was hard put to it ; but on our approach the Toro edged away tov ards the shore, as did all the rest, and stood away for Alvarado ; and we, glad of the deliver- ance, went away to the eastward, and visited all the rivers in our return again to Trist." These visits produced little booty. They also searched the bays for munjack, " a sort of bitumen which we find in a lump, washed up by the sea, and lefl dry on all the sandy bays of *'"' '•"°°* " This substance the Bucaniers, who were com- ihe coast.' 1** 140 WILLIAM DAMPIEK. pelled to find substitutes for many necessary things, tempered vrith tallow or oil, and employed as pitch in repairing their ships and canoes. On the return of Dampier to the Island of Trist, the effects of the dismal hurricane of the former year had disappeared, and he resumed his labours among the woodmen. This em- ployment was probably more profitable than his bucaniering cruise ; as in the course of the following season he was able to visit England, intending to return to the bay when he had seen his friends. He sailed for Jamaica in April 1678, and in the beginning of August reached London. Cutting diewood was still a profitable though a laborious trade ; and Dampier shrewdly remarks, *' that though it is not his business to say how far the English had a right to follow it, yet he was sure the Spaniards never received less damage from the persons who usually followed that trade than when they had exchanged the musket for the axe, and the deck of the privateer for the logwood-groves." During his short residence in England at this time, Dam- pier must have married ; for, though a trifling matter of this kind is too unimportant to be entered in a seaman's journal, we long afterward, while he lay off the Bashee or Five Islands, learn that he had left a wife in England, as, in compliment to the Duke of Grafton, he named the northernmost of the Ba- shee group Grafton's Isle, " having," as he says, " married ray wife out of his dutchess' family, and leaving her at Arlington House at my going abroad." After spending five or six months with his wife and his friends, Dampier, in the beginning of 1679, sailed as a pas- senger for Jamaica, intending immediately to return to his old trade and companions in the Bay of Campeachy. He took out goods from England, which he meant to exchange at Ja- maica for the commodities in request among the wood-cutters. Instead, however, of prosecuting this design, he remained in Jamaica all that year, and by some means was enabled to pur- chase a small estate in Dorsetshire. This new possession he was about to visit, when induced to engage in a trading voy- age to the Mosquito Shore. It promised to be profitable, and he was anxious to realize a little more ready money, before returning to England to settle for hfe. He accordingly sent home the title-deeds of his estate, and embarked with a Mr. Hobby. Soon after leaving Port Royal, they came to anchor in a bay in the west end of the island, in which they found Captains Coxon, Sawkins, Sharp and ** other privateers," as Dampier gently terma the most noted Bucanier commanders of the wm WILLIAM DAHPIEB. 141 period. Hobby's crew deserted him to a man to join the Bu- canier squadron ; and the Mosquito voyage being thus frus- trated, Dampier " was the more easily persuaded to go with them too." Their first attempt was on Porto Beilo, of which assault Dampier gives no account, and he might not have been pres- ent at the capture. Two hundred men were landed ; and, the Iietter to prevent alarm, at such a distance from the town that it took them three days to march upon it, as during daylight they lay concealed in the woods. A negro gave the alarm, but not before the Bucaniers were so close upon his heels that the inhabitants Mere completely taken by surprise, and fled in every direction. The Bucaniers plundered for two days and two nights, in momentary expectation of the country rising upon them, and overpowering their small number ; but, from avarice and rapacity, they were unable to tear themselves away. To the shame of the Spaniards they got clear off, and divi- ded shares of one hundred and sixty pieces of eight a head. Inspired by this success they resolved immediately to march across the isthmus. They knew that such strokes of good fortune as this at Porto Bello could not longer be looked for on the eastern shores of America, and for some time their imagin- ations had been running upon the endless wealth to be found in the South Seas. They remained for about a fortnight at the Samballas Isles, and during this time, preparatory to their grand attempt, endeavoured to conciliate the Indians of the Darien, by gifts of toys and trinkets, and many fair promises. They also persuaded some of the Mosquito-men to join them, who, on account of their expertness in fishing, and striking turtle and manatee^ besides their warlike qualities, were useful auxiliaries either in peace or war. Of this tribe, so long the friends, and, as they named themselves, the subjects of Br'^. 'n, Dampier has g,iven an exceedingly interesting account. In his time the clan or sept properly called Mosquito-men must have been very small, as he says the fighting-men did not amount to one hundred. They inhabited a tract on the coast near Cape Gracios Dios, stretching between Cape Honduras and Nicaragua. "They are," says our navigator, wh« / app<3ars partial to these Indians, " very ingenious at throwing tlie la nee, fisgig, harpoon, or any manner of dart, being bred to it from their infancy ; for the children, imitating their ^.arents, never go abroad without a lance in their hands, which they throw at any object till use hath made them masters of the art. Then they learn to put by a lance, arrow, or dart ; the manner is thus: — Two boys stand at a small distance, and dart a blunt stick at one another, each oi them holding a small stick in his 13 143 WILLIAM DAMPIER. right hand, with which he strikes awaj that which is darted at him. As they grow in years they become more dexterous and courageous ; and then they will stand a fair mark to any one that will c.hoot arrows at them, which they will put by with a veiy small stick no bigger than the rod of a fowling-piece ; and when they are /grown to be men they will guard them- selves from arrows though they come very thick at them, pro- vided they do not happen to come two at once. They have extraordinary good eyes, and will descry a sail at sea, and see any thing better than we. Their chiefest employment in their own country is to strike fish, turtle, or manatee. For this they are esteemed and coveted by all privateers, for one or two of them in a ship will maintain one hundred men ; so that when we careen our ships we choose commonly such places where there is plenty of turtle or manatee for these Mosquito-men to Atrike, and it is very rare to find a privateer destitute of one or more of them, when the commander and most of the crew are English ; but they do not love the French, and the Spaniards they hate mortally. " They are tall, well-made, raw-boned, lusty, strong, and nimble off .-c, long-visaged, lank black hair, look stern, hard- favoured, and of a dark copper complexion. When they come among the privateers they get the use of fire-arms, and are very good marksmen. They behave themselves very bold in fight, and never seem to flinch nor hang back ; for thej think that the white men with whom they are know better than they do when it is best to fight, and, let the disadvantage of their party be never so great, they will never yield nor give back while any of their party stand. I could never perceive any reUgion nor any ceremonica or superstitious observations among them, being ready to imitate us in whatsoever they saw us do at any time. Only they seem to fear the Devil, whom they call Willesaw ; and they say he often appears to some among them, whom our men commonly call their priests, when they desire to speak with him on urgent business. They all say they must not anger him, for then he will beat them; and he sometimes carries away these their priests. They marry but one wife, with whom they live till death separates them. At their first coming together the ma n makes a very small plantation They delight to settle near the sea, or by some river, for the sake of striking fish, thv^ir beloved em- ployment ; for within land there are other Indians with whom they are always at war. After the man hath cleared a spot of land, and hath planted it, he seldom minds it afterward, but leaves the managing of it to his wife, and he goes out a-striking. /Sometimes he seeks only for fish, at other times for turtle or r had been exhausted by the march. Among the Indians of the Darien, Wafer remained for three months, and he has left an account, which is consid- ered the best wo yet possess, of those tribes. The march was continued in very bad weather, this being the commencement of the rainy season, and thunder and lightning frequent and violent. As the i)ottoms of the valleys and the rivers* banks were now overflowed, instead of con- structing huts every night for their repose, the travellers were oftea obliged to seek for a resting-place, and to sleep under trees. To add to their hardships their slaves deserted, carry- ing off" whatever they could lay their hands upon. Before leaving he ship, foreseeing the difliculties of the journey, and the necessity of perpetually fording the riven, WILLIAM DAMPIEK. 147 Dampier had taken the precaution to deposite his journal in a bamboo, closed at both ends with way. In ilis way .^Is pa- pers were secured from wet, while the journalist frequently swam across the rivers which so greatly impeded the progress of the march. In crossing a river where the current ran very strong, one man, who carried his fortune of three hundred dollars on his back, was swept down the stieam and drowned ; and so worn out were his comrades, that, fond as they were of gold, they would not at this time take the trouble to look for or burden themselves with his. It was the eighteenth day of the march before the Bucaniers reached the river Conception, where they obtained Indian cnnoes, in which they proceeded to La Sound's Key, one of the Samballas Islands, which were much frequented by the Bucaniers. Here they entered a French privateer, commanded by Captain Tristian; and, with better faith than Bucaniers usually displayed, generously re- warded their Indian guides with money, toys, and hatchets, and dismissed Jiem. The Bucaniers of th:s time were some- what less ferocious in manners than those u ider Morgan and Lolonnois, though it never entered into their thoughts that there could be any wrong in robbing the Spaiiiards. Sawkins and Watling maintained stricter discipline than had been cus- tomary in former periods, approximating their discipline and regulations to those of privateers, or ships of war. They even made the Sabbath be observed with outward signs of respect. On one occasion, when Sawkins' men, who like all Bucaniers were inveterate gamblers, played on Sunday, the captain flung the dice overboard. In two days after Dampier and his friends had gone on board the French vessel, it left La Sound's for Springer's Key» another of the Samballas Islands, where eight Bucanier ves- sels then lay, of which the companies had formed the design of crossing to Panama. From this expedition they were, however, diverted by the dismal report of the ncwiy-arrived travellers ; and the assault of other places was taken into con- sideration. From Trinidad to Vera Cruz the Bucaniers had now an intimate knowledge of every town upon the coast, and for twenty leagues into the interior; and acqi^aintance with the strength and wealth of each, and with the number and quality of the mhabitants. The preliminary consultations now held lasted for a week, the French and English not agreeing; but at last tliey sailed for Carpenter's River, going first towards the Isle rf St. Andreas. In a gale the ships were separated ; and Dampier, being left with a French captain, conceived such a disUke to his shipmates, that he and his fellow-travellers in crossing the isthmua induced a countryman of their own. 148 WILLIAM DAMPIER. named Captain Wright, to fit up and arm a small vessel, with which they cruised about the coast in search of provisions, still, however, keeping their jackals, the Mosquito-men, who caught turtle while the Bucaniers hunted in the woods for pec- aree, waree, deer, quaums, parrots, pigeons, and curassow birds, and also monkeys, which in times of hardship they es- teemed a delicate morsel. At one place several of the men were suddenly taken ill from eating land-crabs which had fed upon the fruit of the manchinecl-tree. All animals that fed on this fruit were avoided by the freebooters as unwholesome, if not poisonous. In selecting unknown wild fruits the Buca- niers were guided by the birds, freely eating whatever kind had been pecked, but no bird touched the fruit of the manchineel. On returning to La Sound's Key from this cruise, they were joined by Mr. Wafer. He had been for three months kindly entertained by an Indian Chief, who had offered him his daugh- ter in marriage, and grudged him nothing save the liberty of going away. From this kind but exacting chief he escaped under pretence of going in search of English dogs to be em- ployed in hunting, the Indian being aware of the superiority which dogs gave the Spaniards in the chase. Mr. Wafer had been painted by the women of the Darien, and his own clothes being worn out, he was now drfssed, or rather undressed, like the natives ; whom, under this disguise, he resembled so much, that it was sometime before Dampier recognized his old ac- quaintance the surgeon. From the Samballas they cruised towards Carthagena, which they passed, having a fair view of the city, and casting longing eyes upon the rich monastery on the steep hill rising behind it. This monaster}^ dedicated to the Virgin, is, says Dampier, *' a place of incredible wealth, by reason of the offerings made here continually ; and for this reason often in danger of being visited by the privateers, did not the neighbourhood of Cartha- gena keep them in awe. 'Tis, in sho' t, the very Loretto of the West Indies, and hath innumerable miracles related of it. Any misfortune that befalls the privateers is attributed to this lady's doing ; and the Spaniards report, that she was abroad that night the Oxford man-of-war was blown up at the Isle of Vaca, and that she came home all wet ; as belike she often returns with her clothes dirty and torn with passing through woods and bad ways when she has been upon an expedition, deserving, doubtless, a new . suit for such eminent pieces of service." The company of Captain Wright pillaged several small pla- ces about Rio de la Hacha and the Ranch les, which was jthe head-quarters of a small Spanish pearl-fiLi.iery. The pearl* WILLIAM DAMPIER. I4d banks lay about four or five leagues off the shore. In prose- cuting this fishery, the Indian divers, first anchoring their boats, dived, and brought up full the baskets previously let down ; and when their barks were filled, they went ashore, and the oysters were opened by the old men, women, and children, unde- the inspection of a Spanish overseer. In a short time afterward, the Bucuniers captured, after a smart engagement, an armed ship of twelve guns and forty men, laden with sugar, tobacco, and marmalade, bound to Carthagena from St. Jago in Cuba. From the disposal of this cargo, some insight is afforded into the mysteries of bucanier- ing. It was offered first to the Dutch governor of Curacao, who having, as he said, a great trade with the Spaniards, could not openly admit the freebooters to this island, though he di- rected them to go to St. Thomas, which belonged to the Danes, whither he would send a sloop with such commodities as the Bucaniers required, and take the sugar off their hands. The rovers, however, declined the terms offered by the cautious Dutchman, and sailed from St. Thomas to another Dutch colony, where they found a better merchant. From hence they sailed for the Isle of Aves, which, as its name imports, abounded in birds, especially boobies and men-of-war birds. The latter bird was about the size of a kite, black, with a red throat. It lives on fish, yet never lights in the water ; but soar- ing aloft like the kite, " when it sees its prey, darts down, snatches it, and mounts, never once touching the water." On a coral reef off the south side of this island the Count d'Estrees had shortly before lost the Frcnd' flrct. Firing guns in the darkness, to warn the ships that lowed him to avoid the danger on which he had run, they imuiiiiicil that ho was engaged with the enemy, and crowding all sail, rati > jion destruction. The ships held together next day till part of the men got on shore, though many perished in the wreck. Dam- pier relates, that those of the ordinary seamen who got to land died of fatigue and famine, while those who had been Buca- niers and were wrecked here, " being used to such accidents, lived merrily ; and if they had gone to Jamaica with thirty pounds in their pockets, could not have enjoyed themselves more ; for they kept a gang by themselves, and watched when the ships broke up to get the goods that came out of them ; and though much was staved against the rocks, yet abundance of wine and brandy floated over the reef, where they waited to take it up." The following anecdote of the wrecked crew is horribly striking: — " There were about forty Frenchmen on board one of the ships, in which was good store of liquor, till the after-part of her broke, and floated over the reef, and was 150 WILLIAM DAMPIER. If carried away to sea, with all the men drinking and singing, who, being in drink, did not mind the danger, but were never heard of afterward." In a short time after, this island was the scene of a buca- nlering trick, which Dampier relates with some glee. The wreck of the French fleet had left Aves Island a perfect arse- nal of masts, yards, timbers, and so forth, and hither the Buca- niers repaired to careen and refit their ships, and among others Captain Pain, a Frenchman. A Dutch vessel of twenty guns, despatched from Curagao to fish up the guns lost on the reef, descried the privateer, which she resolved to capture before engaging in the business of her voyage. The Frenchman abandoned his ship, which he saw no chance of preserving, but brought ashore some of his guns, and resolved to defend himself as lon;^ as possible. While his men were landing the guns, he perceived at a distance a Dutch sloop entering the road, and at evening found her at anchor at the west end of the island. During the night, with two canoes, he boarded and took this sloop, found considerable booty, and made off with her, leaving his empty vessel as a prize to the Dutch man-of-war. At this island Dampier saw, besides men-of-war birds, boo- bies, and noddies, numbers of the Iropic-bird. It was as big as a pigeon, and round and plump as a partridge, all white, save two or three light-gray feathers in the wing. One long feather or quill, about seven inches in length, growing out of the rump, is all the tail these birds have. They are never seen far without the tropics, but are met with at a great dis- tance from land. After taking in what water could be obtain- ed, they left Rocas, and went to Salt Tortuga, so called to distinguish it from Dry Tortuga near Cape Florida, and from the Tortuga of the first Bucaniers near Hispaniola, which place was now, however, better known as Petit Guaves. They expected to sell the remainder of their sugar to the English vessels which came lure for salt; but not succeeding, they sailed for Blanco, an isfland north of Margarita, and thirty leagues from the main. It was an uninhabited island, flat and low, being mostly savanna, with a few wooded spots, in which flourished the lignum vita:. Iguanas, or guanoes, as they were commonly called in the West Indies, abounded on Blanco. They resembled the lizard species, but were bigger, about the size of the small of a man's leg. From the hind-quarter the tail tapers to the point. If seized by the tail near the extremi- ty, it broke oflf at a joint, and the animal < caped. They are amphibious creatures. Both their eggs and flesh were higlily esteemed by the Bucaniers, who made soup of the latter for WILLIAM DAMPIEB. 151 their sick. There were many species found here living on land or water, in the swamps, among bushes, or on trees. Green turtle frequented this island in numbers. From Blanco they returned to Salt Tortuga, and went from thence after four days to the coast of the Caraccas on the main. While cruising on this coast, they landed in some of the bays, and took seven or eight tons of cocoa, and afterward three barks, — one laden with hides, another with brandy and earthenware, and a third with European goods. With these prizes they returned to the Rocas to divide the spoil ; after which Dampier and other nineteen out of a company of sixty took one of the captured vessels, and with their share of the plunder, held their course direct for Virginia, which was reach- ed in July, 1682. Of the thirteen months which our navigator spent in Virgi- nia he has left no record ; but from another portion of his memoirs it may be gathered that he suffered from sickness during most of the time. His disease was not more singular than was the mode of cure practised by a negro Esculapius, whose appropriate fee was a white cock. The disease was what is called the Guinea-worm, " These worms," says Dam- pier, " are no bigger than a large brown thread, but, os I have heard, five or six yards long; and if it break in drawing out, that part which remains in the flesh will putrify, and endan- ger the patient's life, and be very painful. I was in great torment before it came out. My leg and ankle swelled, and looked very red and angry ^ and I kept a plaster to it to bring it to a head. Drawing off my plaster, out came about three inches of the worm, and my pain abated presently. Till then I was ignorant of my malady, and the gentlewoman at whose house I lodged took it (the worm) for a nerve ; but I knew well enough what it was, and presently rolled it upon a small stick. After that I opened it every morning and evening, and strained it out gently, about two inches at a time, not without pain." The negro doctor first stroked the place affected, then applied some rough powder to it like tobacco leaves crumbled, next muttered a spell, blew upon the part three times, waved his hands as often, and said that in three days it would be well. It proved so, and the stipulated fee of the white cock wai gladly paid. The next adventure of Dampier was the circumnavigation of the globe, — a voyage and ramble extending to about eight years, wliich in point of interest and variety has never yet been surpassed. This we will now describe. Among the companions of Dampier in his journey across the isthmus, and in liis subsequent cruise, was Mr. John Cook, ...jfi-- 152 WILLIAM DAMPIER. I a Creole, born in St. Christopher's, and a man of good capa- city. He had acted as quarter-master, or second in command, under Captain Yanky, a French Flibustier, who at this time held a commission as a privateer. By the ordinary laws of the Bucaniers, when a prize fit for a piratical cruise was taken, the second in command was promoted to it ; and in virtue of this title. Cook obtained an excellent Spanish ship. At this, however, the French commanders were secretly discontented, and on the first opportunity they seized the ship, plundered the crew, who were Englishmen, of their arms and goods, and turned them ashore. The French captain, Tristian, either took compassion on some of the number, or hoped to find them serviceable ; for he carried eight or ten of them with him to Petit Guaves, among whom were Cook and Davis. They had not lain long here when Captain Tristian and part of his men being one day on shore, the English party, in revenge of the late spoliation overmastered the rest of the crew, took the ship, and, sending the Frenchmen ashore, sailed for Isle alaVache, where they picked up a straggling crew of English Bucaniers, and before they could be overtaken sailed for Virginia, Avhere Dampier now was, taking two prizes by the way, one of which was a French ship laden with wine. Having thus dexterously swindled Tristian out of his ship, which might, however, be considered as but a fair act of reprisal, and having afterward committed open piracy on the French commerce, the West Indies was no longer a safe latitude for these English Buca- niers. The wines were therefore sold with the other goods and two of the ships ; and the largest prize, which carried eighteen guns, was new-named the Revenge, and equipped and provisioned for a long voyage. Among her crew of seventy men were almost all the late fellow-travellers across the isthmus, including Wilham Dampier, Lionel Wafer, the surgeon, Am- brose Cowley, who has left an account of the voyage, and the commander, Captain John Cook. Before embarking on this new piratical expedition, they all subscribed certain rules for maintaining discipline and due subordination, and for the ob- servance of sobriety on their long voyage. They sailed from the Chesapeake on the 23d of August, 1683 ; captured a Dutch vessel, in which they found six casks of wine and a quantity of provisions ; and near the Cape de Verd Islands encountered a storm which raged for a week, " drenching them all like so many drowned rats." After this gale they had the winds and weather both favourable, and an- chored at the Isle of Sal, one of the Cape de Verd group, so named from its numerous salt-ponds. WILLIAM DAMPIER. 153 From the Cape de Verd Isles the Revenge intended to keep a direct course to the Straits of Magellan ; but by adverse veeather was compelled to steer for the Guinea coast, which was made in November, near Sierra Leone. They anchored in the mouth of the river Sherborough, near a large Danish ship, which they afterward took by stratagem. While in sight of the Dane, which felt no alarm at the appearance of a ship of the size of the Revenge, most of the Bucanier crew remain- ed under deck, no more of the hands appearing above than were necessary to manage the sails. Their bold design was to board the ship without discovering any sign of their inten- tion ; and the Revenge advanced closely, still wearing the re- semblance of a weakly -manned merchant-vessel. When quite close. Captain Cook in a loud voice commanded the hr*; . to be put one way, while by previous orders and apreconctAied plan the steersman shifted it into a quite opposite direction ; and the Revenge, as if by accident, suddenly fell on board the Dane, which by this dexterous manoeuvre was captured with only the loss of five men, though a ship of double their whole force. She carried thirty-six guns, and was equipped and vic- tualled for a long voyage. This fine vessel was by the exulting Bucaniers named the Bachelor's DeUght ; and they immediately burnt the Revenge that she " might tell no tales," sent their prisoners on shore, and steered for 7 ' 'ellan's Straits. On the voyage lu the straits the Bachelor's Delight encoun- tered frequent tornadoes, accompanied by thunder, lightning, and rain. Many of the men were seized with fever, and one man died. Having little fresh animal food of any kind, they caught sharks during the calms between the gusts of the torna- does, which they prepared by first boiling, and afterward stew- ing them with pepper and vinegar. About the middle of Jan- uary they lost one of the surgeons, who was greatly lamented, as there now remained but one for the long voyage which was meditated. On the 28th they made John Davis' Southern Islands, or the Falkland Isles, — ^then, however, more generally known as the Sebald de Weert Islands. In the course of their voyage Dampier, who possessed more geographical and nautical knowledge than his companions* had been persuading Captain Cook to stop here to water, and afterward to prosecute the voyage to Juan Fernandez by doub- ling Cape Horn, avoiding the straits altogether, which, he ju- diciously says, " I knew would prove very dangerous to us, the rather because our men being privateers, and so more wilful and less under command, would not be so ready to give a watchftU attendance in a passage so little known. 14 154 WILLIAM DAMPIER. The advice of Dampier was not taken, but westerly winds prevented Cook from making the entrance of the straits, and on the 6th of February they fell in with the Straits of Le Maire, high land on both sides, and the passage very narrow. They ran in for four miles, when a strong tide setting in northward " made such a short cockling sea," which ran every way, as if in a place where two opposing tides meet, sometimes break- ing over the poop, sometimes over the waist and the bow, and tossing the Bachelor's Delight " like an egg-shell." In the same evening they had a breeze from W. N. W., bore away eastward, and, having the wind fresh all night, passed the east end of Staten Island next day. The next night, they lost sight of Terra del Fuego, and saw no other land till they entered the South Sea. In doubling Cape Horn they were so fortunate as to catch twenty-three barrels of rain- water, besides an abundant supply for present consumption. On the 3d of March they entered the South Sea with a fair fresh breeze, which from the south haa shifted to the eastward. On the I9th a strange sail was seen to the southward bearing full upon them, which was mistaken for a Spaniard, but proved to be the Nicholas of London, commanded by Captain Eaton, fitted out as a trader, but in reality a Bucanier ship. Captain Eaton came oa board the Bachelor's Delight, related his ad- ventures, and, like a true brother, gave the company water, while they spared him a supply of bread and beef. Together they now steered for Juan Fernandez, and on the 23d anchor- ed in a bay at the south end of the island, in twenty-five fathoms water. It may be remembered, that when Captain Watling and his company escaped from Juan Fernandez three years before, they had left a Mosquito Indian on the island, who was out hunting goats when the alarm came. This Mosquito-man, named WiUiam, was the first and the true Robinson Crusoe, the original hermit of this romantic solitude. Immediately on approaching the island, Dampier and a few of William's old friends, together with a Mosquito-man named Robin, put off for the shore, where they soon perceived William standing ready to give them welcome. From the heights he had seen the ships on the preceding day, and knowing them to be Eng- Ush vessels by the way they were worked, he had killed three goats, and dressed them with cabbage of the cabbage-tree, to have a feast ready on the arrival of the ships. How great was his delight, as the boat neared ihe shore, when Robin leaped to the land, and running up to him, fell flat on his face at his feet. William raised up his countryman, embraced him, and in turn prostrated himself at Robin's feet, who lifted him upi WILLIAM DAMPIER. \65 and they renewed their embraces. " We stood with plep^ure," says Dampier, " to behold the surprise, tenderness, and solem- nity of their interview, which was exceedingly affectiL'g on both sides ; and when these their ceremonies of civility v^ere over, we also that stood gazing at them drew near, each ot us embracing him we had found here, who was overjoyed to see so many of his old friends, come hither, as he thought, pui*- posely to fetch him." At the time William was abandoned, he had with him in the woods his gun and knife, and a small quantity of powder and shot. As soon as his ammunition was expended, by notching his knife into a saw, he cut up the barrel of his gun into pieces, which he converted into harpoons, lances, and a long knife. To accomplish this he struck fire with his gun-flint and a piece of the barrel of his gun, which he hardened for this purpose in a way he had seen practised by the Bucaniers. In this fire he heated his pieces of iron, hammered them out with stones, sawed them with his jagged knife, or grinded them to an edge, and tempered them ; " which was no more than these Mos- quito-men were accustomed to do in their own country, where they make their own fishing and striking instruments without either forge or anvil, though they spend a great deal of time about them." Thus furnished, William supplied himself with goats' flesh and fish, though, till his instruments were formed, he had been compelled to eat seal. He built his house about a half-mile from the shore, and lined it snugly with goat-skins, with which he also spread his couch or barbecue^ which was raised two feet from the floor. As his clothes wore out, he supplied this want also with goat-skins, and when first seen he wore nothing save a goat-skin about his waist. Though the Spaniards, who had learned that a Mosquito-man was left here, had looked for Wilham several times, he had always, by retiring to a secret place, contrived to elude their search. The island of .Tuan Fernandez was hilly, and intersected by small pleasant valleys ; the mountains were partly savanna and partly woodland; the grass of the flat places being deli- cate and kindly, of a short thick growth, unlike the coarse sedgy grass of the savannas of the West Indies. The cab- bage-tree was found here, and well-grown timber of different kinds, though none that was fit for masts. There were in the island two bays, both at the east end, where ships might an- chor, and into each of them flowed a rivulet of good water. Water was also found in every valley. Goats, which accord- ing to Dampier were originally « brought to the island by the discoverer, were now found in large flocks, and seals swarm- ed about the island " as if they had no other place in the world 156 WILLIAM DAMPIER. to live in, every hay and rock being full of them." Sea-lions were also numerous, and different kinds of fish were found. The seals were of different colours, — black, gray, and dun, with a fine thick short fur. Millions of them were seen sitting in the bays, going or coming into the sea, or, as they lay at the top of the waves, sporting and sunning themselves, covering the water for a mile or two from the shore. When they come out of the sea 'Hhey bleat like sheep for their young; and though they pass through hundreds of others* young, yet they will not suffer any of them to suck." The sea-lion is shaped like a seal, but is six times as big, with " great goggle eyes," and teeth three inches long, of which the Bucaniers sometimes made dice. The Bucaniers remained for sixteen days at this island get- ting in provisions, and for the recovery of the sick and those affected with scurvy, who were placed on shore, and fed with vegetables and fresh goats* flesh, which regimen was found beneficial. On the 8th of April they sailed for the American coast, which they approached in 24° S. ; but stood off at the distance of fourteen or fifteen leagues, that they might not be observed from the high grounds by the Spaniards. The first capture of the Bucaniers, made on the 3d of May, was a Spanish ship bound to Lima, laden with timber from Guayaquil ; from which they learned that it was known in the settlements that pirates were on the coast. On the 9tli they anchored at the isle of Lobos de la Mar with their prize. At this place the ships were scrubbed, and the prisoners rigidly examined, that from their information the voyagers might guide their future proceedings. Truxillo was the town at last fixed upon for making a descent. The com- panies of both ships were mustered, for Eaton and Cook had now agreed to hunt in couples, and the arms were proved. The men amounted to one hundred and eight fit to bear arms, besides the sick. Before they sailed on this expedition three ships were seen steering northward. Cook stood afler one of them, which made for the land, and Eaton pursued the other two to sea, and captured thera on the same day. They con- tained cargoes of flour from Lima for the city of Panama, whither they carried intelligence from the governor of the for- midable Bucanier force which now threatened the coast. One of t|ie ships carried eight tons of quince-marmalade. The Bucaniers were deeply mortified to learn that they had nar- rowly missed a prize containing eight hundred thousand pieces of eight, which had been landed at an intermediate port, upon a rumour of English ships being cruising off the coast of Peru. WILLIAM DAMPIER. 167 The design against Truxillo was now abandoned, as they learned that it had lately been fortified, and a Spanish garrison established for its defence ; and on the evening of the 19th they sailed with their flour-prizes for the Galapagos Islands, which they descried on the 31st, " some appearing on the lee-bow, some on the weather-bow, and others right ahead." At the Galapagos Isles the Bucaniers remained for ten days, and deposited a store of their prize-flour against future neces- sity. Salt im found here, pigeo^ abounded, the sea teemed with fish, and the leaves of the Ufammee-tree furnished them with vegetables ; so that the Galapagos were in all respects well adapted for a Bucanier station. . By the advice of an Indian, one of their prisoners, the Buc- aniers were induced to visit Ria ifexa, his native^lace, where he promised them a rich harvest in plunder. ^ i At Juan Fernandez Captain Cook had been taken ill ; he now died somewhat suddenly as they stood off Cape Blanco, and, as a mark of respect, was buried on shore. While his men were digging the grave they were seen by three Spanish Indians, who held aloof, but asked them many questions ; *' and one man," says Dampier, " did not stick to sooth them up with as many falsehoods, purposely to draw them into our clutches ; and at length drilled them by discourse so near, that our men laid hold on all three at once." One escaped before the burial of Cook was over, and the other two were taken on ship-board. When examined, notwithstanding their pretend- ed simplicity, they confessed that they had been sent out as spies by the Governor of Panama, who had received inteUi- gence of the Bucanier squadron. The voyagers were informed by these prisoners that large herds of cattle were reared in this neighbourhood, which was welcome news to seamen who had seen no fresh meat since their run from the Galapagos. Two boats were immediately sent to the shore with an Indian guide to bring oft^ cattle; but the enterprise appeared dangerous, and Dampier with twelve men returned on board. Those who were more foolhardy, and who even slept on shore, found themselves next mornin^ watched by forty or fifty armed Spaniards, and their boat burnt. The cowardly Spaniards, afraid to come forward, still lurked in their ambush, and one of the seamen on landing, having no- ticed an insulated rock which just appeared above water, they made off for this fortress, and holding fast by each other, and wading to the neck, they reached the rock, while the Spanish shot whistled after them. In this perilous condition they had remained for seven hours, the tide, which was at the ebb when they took refuge here, rising around them, and gaining on 14* lOB WILLIAM DASIPIBK. the rock so rapidlj, that had not help come from the ships, in another hour they must have been swept away. Tlie Span- iards, who reHshed bush-fighting better than the open field, meanwhile lay in wait for the catastrophe ; but when the canoe from the English ships bore off the men, they offered no re- sistance. The quarter-master, Edward Davis, was now elected com- mander in the room of Captain Cook ; and after taking in water, and cutting lance^od for handles to their oars, they bore away for Ria Lexa, and on the 23d of July were opposite the h'trbour. The situation of the town is known by a high- peake J volcanic mountson, which rises withki three leagues of the harbour, but may be seen at the distance of twenty leagues. A small flafsisland, about a%iile long and a quarter of a mile broad, forms tlif harbour, in which two hundred sail can ride. It may be entered by a channel at each end. The Spaniards had here also got the start of the enemy. They had thrown up a breastwork on a strong position, and stationed sentinels to give instant alarm ; and the Bucaniers, who wished to surpise and plunder, and not to fight against great odds, deemed it prudent to steer for the Gulf of Amapal- la, an arm of the sea running inland eight or ten leagues, and made remarkable by two headlands at the entrance. Point Casivina on the south side, in latitude 12° 40" N., and on the north-west Mount St. Michael. At a .previous consultation, it had been agreed that Captain Davis should advance first, in two canoes, and endeavour to seize some Indians to labour at careening the ships, ' and also a prisoner of better condition, from whom intelligence might be obtained. On the Island of Mangera the padre of a village, from which all the other inhabitants had fled, was caught white endeavouring to escape, and with him two Indian boys. With these Davis proceeded to Amapalla, where, having previously gained over or frightened the priest, he told the Indians drawn up to receive him, that he and his company were Biscayners, sent by the King of Spain to clear the seas of pirates, and that his business in the bay of this island was only to careen his ships. On this assurance Davis and his men were well re- ceived, and they all marched together, strangers and natives, to church, which was the usual place of pubhc assembly, whether for business or amusement. The images in the churches here, like those in the Bay of Campeachy, were painted of the Indian complexion ; and the people, under the sway of their padres, lived in much the same condition as the tribes described on the banks of the Tobasco, cultivating maize, rearing poultry, and duly paying the priest his tithe. Here» WILLIAM DAMPIER. 15& too, they were indulged in masks and other pastimes, with abundance of music on saints' eves and holydays. '* Their mirth," says Dampier, " consists in singing, dancing, and using many antic gestures. If the moon shine they use but few torches ; if not, the church is full of hght. They meet at these times all sorts of both sexes. \11 the Indians that I have been acquainted with who are under the Spaniards seem to be more melancholy than other Indians who are free ; and at these public meetings, when they are in the greatest of their jollity, their mirth seems to be rather forced than real. Their songs arc very melancholy and doleful ; so is their musicJ' In attending them to the church under the guise of friend- ship, Davis intended to ensnare these unsuspecting people, and make them all his prisoners till he had dictated his owii terms of ransom, the padre having, probably from compulsion, promised his aid in entrapping his ilock. This hopeful project was frustrated by one of the Bucaniers rashly and rudely push- ing a man into the church before him. The alarm was given,, the Indian fled, and his countrymen " sprung out of the church like deer.'* Davis and his men immediately fired, and killed a leading man among the natives. The Bucaniers were, however, afterward assisted by several of the natives in storing the ships with cattle plundered from an islanc. in the gulf, belonging to a nunnery in some distant place ; and from some feelings of remorse, on leaving this tjuarter Davis presented the islanders of Amapalla with one of his prize-ships, and a considerable part of the cargo of flour which it contained. The ships here broke off* consortship. The crews had quarrelled, — Davis' party, in right of priority in marauding, claiming the largest share of the spoils. Eaton left the gulf on the 2d of September, and Davis, with whom Dampier continued, on the day following, having previously set the padre on shore. They stood for the coast of Peru, having almost every day tornadoes accompanied with thunder and lightning,^-weather of this kind generally prevailing in these latitudes from June to November. When these gusts were over the wind generally shifted to the west. Near Cape St. Francisco they I ud settled weather, and the wind at south. About this place they again fell in with Eaton, who had en- countered terrible storms. "Such tornadoes as he and his men had never before seen, — the air smelling very much of sulphur, and they fancying themselves in great danger of being burnt by the lightning." Captain Eaton had touched at Cocos Island, where he laid up a store of flour, and took in water and cocoanuts. Cocos Island, as described by Eaton, is nearly •urrounded by rocks ; but at the north-east end there is one 160 WILLIAM DAMPIKR. small and secure harbour, — a brook of fresh water flowinfir into it. The middle of the island is high, and though destitute of trees, looks verdant and pleasant from the abundance of an herb, which the Spaniards called gramadiel, growing upon the high grounds. Near the shore all round the island were groves of cocoas. At the Island of La Plata, so named, according to Dampier, from Sir Francis Drake having divided upon it the plunder of the plate-ship the Cacafuego, the Bucaniers found water, though but a scanty rivulet, and plenty of small sea-turtle. Captain Eaton's company would again have joined their for- mer consorts ; but Dampier relates that Davis' men, his own comrades, were still so unreasonable that they would not con- sent to new-comers having an equal share of what they pil- laged; so the Nicholas held southward, while the Bachelor's Delight steered for Point Santa Elena, in 2^ 15' S., pretty high but flat land, naked of trees and overgrown with thistles. There was no fresh water on the point, and this article the inhabitants brought from four leagues' distance, from the river Colaache, the innermost part of the bay. Watermelons, large and very sweet, were the only things cultivated on the point. Pitch was the principal commodity of the inhabitants. It boiled out of a hole in the earth at five paces above high- water mark, and was found plentifully at flood-tide ; when first obtained it was like thin tar, but was boiled down to the con- sistence of pitch. Dvivis' men landed at Manta, a village on the mainland, about three leagues to the cast of Cape San Lorenzo, where they made two old women prisoners, from whom they learned that many Bucaniers had lately crossed the isthmus from the West Indies, and were cruising on the coast in canoes and pirogues. The viceroy had taken every precaution against this new incursion. On all the uninhabited islands the goats had been destroyed ; ships were burned to save them from the Bucaniers, and no provisions were allowed to remain at any place on the coast,but such as might be required for the imme- diate supply of the inhabitants. Davis returned to La Plata, at a loss what course to take ; when, on the 2d of October, he was joined by the Cygnet of London, commanded by Captain Swan, who, ill treated by the Spaniards, and disappointed of peaceful traffic, for which he had come prepared with an ex- pensive cargo, had been compelled by his men to receive on board a party of Bucaniers, and in self-defence to commence freebooter. Before he had adopted this course some of his men had been killed by the Spaniards at Baldivia, where he had attempted to open a trade. With this small Bucauier WILLIAM DAMPIEH. 161 Jl Bucanier party, which had come by the Darien, plundering by the way, Swan fell in near the Gulf of Nicoya. It was led by Peter Harris, the nephew of a Bucanier commander of the same name who had been killed in the battle with the Spanish ships in the Boy of Panama three years before. Harris took command under Swan, in a small bark wholly manned by Bucaniers. This was a joyful meeting of old associates ; and the de- parture of Eaton was now deeply regretted, as their united force might have ensured success to more important under- takings than any they had yet ventured to contemplate. While the ships were refitting at La Plata, a small bark, which Davis had taken after the Spaniards had set it on fire, was sent out to cruise, and soon brought in a prize of four hundred tons burthen, laden with timber, and gave intelligence that the viceroy was fitting out a fleet often frigates to sweep them from the South Seas. Again the loss of Eaton was felt, and this bark was dispatched to search for him on the coast of Lima. It went as far as the Isle of Lobos. Meanwhile Swan's ship, which was still full of English goods, was put in better fighting trim, and made fit to accommodate her additional crew. The supercargo sold his goods on credit to every Bucanier who would purchase, taking his chance of payment, and the bulky commodities which remained were pitched overboard, — pilks, muslins, and finer goods, and iron bars which were kept for ballast, being alone retained. In lieu of these sacrifices, tho whole Bucaniers on board the Cygnet agreed that ten shares of all booty should be set aside for Swan's owners. The men-of-war were now scrubbed and cleaned, a small bark was equipped as a fire-ship ; and the vessel which had been cruising after Eaton not having returned, the s(|uadron sailed without it on the 20th of October, and on the 3d of No- vember landed at Paita, which was found nearly abandoned, and left without " money, goods, or a meal of victuals of any kind." They anchored before the place, and demanded ran- som for its safety, ordering in the meanwhile three hundred pecks of flour, three thousand pounds of sugar, twenty-five jars of wine, and one thousand of water to he brought off" to the ships ; but, after wasting six days, they obt; ined nothing, and in revenge burnt the town. The road of Paita was tmo of the best in Peru, roomy, and sheltered from tlie south-west by a point of land. The town had no water except what was carried thither from Colan, from whence the filace was also supplied with fruits, hogs, plantains, and maize. Dampier says, that on this coast, from about " Cape Blanco to 30° S., no rain ever falls that he ever observed or heard of." He calls 162 WILLIAM DAMPIER. this range " the dry country." Wafer states that heavy nightly dews fertihze the valleys. The country around it was moun- tainous and sterile. From information obtained here it was gathered that Cap- tain Eaton had been before them, and had burned a large ship in the road, and landed all his prisoners. They also learned that a small vessel, which they concluded to be their own bark, had approached the harbour, and made same fishermen bring out water. Harris' small vessel being found a heavy sailer, was burned before leaving Paita, from, which the squadron steered for Lobos de Tierra, and on the 14th anchored near the east end of the island, and -took in a supply of seals, penguins, and boobies, of which they ate " very heartily, not having tasted flesh in a great while before." To reconcile his men to what had been the best fare of the crews of Drake, Cavendish, and the earlier navigators. Captain Swan commended this food as of extraordinary delicacy and rarity, comparing the seals to roasted pigs, the boobies to pullets, and the penguins to ducks. On the 19th the fleet reached Lobos de la Mar, where a letter was found deposited at the rendezvous by the bark, which was still in search of Eaton. It was now feared that he had sailed for the East Indies, which turned out to be the fact. Here the Mosquito-men supplied the companies of both ahips with turtle ; while the seamen laboured to clean and re- pair, and provide them with firewood, preparatory to an at- tempt upon Guayaquil. Foi this place they sailed on the morning of the 29th. According to Dampier, Guayaquil was then one of the chief ports of the South Seas. The commodi- ties it exported were hides, tallow, cocoa, sarsaparilla, and a woollen fabric named Quito cloth, generally used by the com- mon people throughout all Peru. The Bucaniers left the ships anchored off" Cape Blanco, and entered the bay with their canoes and a bark. They captured a small vessel laden with Quito cloth, the master of which informed them of a look- out being kept at Puna, which lay in their way, and that three vessels with negro slaves were then about to sail from Guaya- quil. One of these vessels they took shortly afterward, cut down her mainmast, and left her at anchor, and next morning captured the other ,two, though only a few negroes were picked out of this to them useless cargo. From mismanagement, and disagreement between the commanders and the men in the two ships, the expedition against Guayaquil misgave. It was imagined that the town was alarmed and prepared to receive them warmly ; and after having landed, lain in the woods all night, and made their way WILLIAM DAMPIER. 163 It was moun- with considerable difficulty, they abandoned the design before one shot had been fired, and while the place lay full in view of them at a mile's distance, without manifesting any appearance of opposition being intended. Dampier, whose ideas took a wider and bolder range than those of his companions, deeply lamented their ill conduct upon the fair occasion \yhich offered at this time of enriching themselves at less expense of crime than in their ordinary pursuits. " Never," he says, " was there put into the hands of men a greater opportunity to enrich themselves." His bold and comprehensive plan was, with the one thousand ne- groes found in the three ships, to have gone to St. Martha, and worked the gold mines there. In the Indians he reckoned upon finding friends, as they mortally hated the Spaniards, — for present sustenance they had two hundred tons of flour laid up at the Galapagos Islands, — the North Sea would have been open to them, — thousands of Bucaniers would have join- ed them from all parts of the West Indies, and united they might have been a match for all the force Peru could muster, masters of the richest mines in this quarter, and of all the west coast as high as Quito. Whether Dampier unfolded this " golden dream" at the time does not appear. The Bucaniers, at all events, sailed to La Plata, where they found the bark, and divided the cloth of Quito equally between the companies of Swan and Davis, converting the vessel in which it had been taken into a tender for the Cygnet. This ship had since joining depended almost wholly upon the Bachelor's Delight for provisions, as it had neither Mos- quito-purveyors nor a store of flour ; and the original Buca- nier company of Davis now murmured loudly at feeding the cowards who they alleged had balked the attempt on Guaya- quil. But neither could afford to part consortship, and they sailed in company on the 23d of December to attack Laveli.i in the Bay of Panama. In this cruise, from the charts and books found in their prizes, they supplied the ignorance and deficiencies of the Indians and Spanish pilots whom they had as prisoners on board ; these drafts being found surer guides. Their object was in the first place to search for canoes, — the want of boats being greatly felt, — in rivers where the Spaniards had no trade with the natives, nor settlements of any kind, as concealment was most important to the success of their opera- tions. In unfrequented rivers where boats might be found, the coast abounded from the equinoctial line to the Gulf of St. Michael. When five days out from La Plata, they made a sudden descent upon a village named Tomaco, where they captured a vessel laden with timber, in which was a Spanish 164 WILLIAM DAMPIES. knight with a crew of eight Spaniards, and also took what the Bucaniers valued much more, a canoe with twelve jars of good old wine. A canoe with a party that rowed six leagues farther up the river, which Dampier named St. Jago, came to a house belonging to a Spanish lady of Lima, whose servants at this remote station traded with the natives for gold. They fled ; but the Bucaniers found several ounces of gold left in their calabashes. The land on the banks of this river was a rich black mould, producing tall trees. The cotton and cabbage- trees flourished here on the banks ; and a good way into the interior, Indian settlements were seen, with plantations of maize, plantain-walks, hogs, and poultry. At Tomaco a canoe with three natives visited the strangers, whom they did not distinguish from Spaniards. They were of middling stature, straight, and well-limbed, " long-visaged, thin-faced, with black hair, ill-looked men, of a very dark copper com- plexion." The Bucaniers presented them with wine, which they drank freely. On the 1st of January the Cygnet and Bachelor's Dehght sailed for the Island of Gallo, carrying with them the Spanish knight Don Pinas, and two canoes. On the way one of their boats captured the packet-boat from Lima, and fished up the letters which the Spaniards when pursued had thrown ovei- board attached to a line and buoy. From these despatches they learned the welcome and important fact of the Governor of Panama hastening the sailing of the triennial PIate-fl«et from CaJlao to Panama, previous to the treasure being con- veyed across the isthmus to Porto Bello on mules. To inter- cept this fleet w^uld enrich every man among them at one stroke; and to this single object every faculty was now bent. As a fit place to careen their jship^ and at the eaipe time lie in wait for their prey, thej' fixed upon the Pearl Islands in the Bay of Panama, for which they sailed from Gallo on the morn- ing of the 7th ; — two ships, three barks, a fireship, and two small tenders, one attached to each ship. On the 8th they opportunely captured a bark with flour, and then "jogged on with a gentle gale" to Gorgona, an uninhab- ited island, well wooded, and watered with brooklets issuing from the high grounds. Pearl-oysters abounded here. They were found in from four to six fathoms water, and seemed ilatter in the shell than the ordinary eating oyster. The pearl was found at the head of the oyster, between the shell and the meat, sometimes one or two pretty large in size, and at other times, twenty or thirty seed-pearls. The inside of the shell was " more glorious than the pearl itself." WILLIAM DAMPIER. 165 Landing most of their prisoners at Gorgona, the squadron, now consisting of six sail, steered for the Bay of Panama, and anchored at Galera, a small, barren, uninhabited island, from whence they again sailed on the 25th to one of the southern Pearl Islands, as a place more suitable to hale up tmd clean the ships. While this was in progress, the small barks cruised, and brought in a prize laden with beef, Indian corn, and fowls, which were all highly acceptable. They next took in water and firewood, and were at last in fit order to fight as well as to watch the Plate-fleet, which they did cruising before Panama, between the Pearl Islands and the main; where, says Dampier, " it was very pleasant sailing, having the main on one side, which appears in divers forms. It is beautified with many small hills, clothed with wood of divers sorts of trees, which are always green and flourishing. There are some few small high islands within a league of the main, scat- tered here and there one, partly woody partly bare, and they as well as the main appear very pleasant." Most of the Pearl Islands were wooded and fertile ; and from them were drawn the rice, plantains, and bananas which supplied the city of New Panama, " a fair city standing close by the sea, about four miles from the ruins of the old town," — encompassed be- hind with a fine country of hill and valley, beautified with uroves and spots of trees, appearing like islands in the savan- nas. The new city had been walled in since the late visit which Dampier had made it with Sawkins, Goxon, and Sharp, and the walls were now mounted with guns pointing seaward. As Davis lay nearly opposite the city, its supplies from the islands were completely cut oflf; while his people every day fished, hunted, or pillaged among them. At this time Davis negotiated for an exchange of prisoners, giving up forty, of whom he was very glad to be rid, in return for one of Harris* band, and a man who had been surprised by the Spaniards while hunting in the islands. Attention to the safety of the meanest individual of their company was at all times one of the fundamental principles of the Bucaniers ; and it is stated on good authority, that when they first hunted in the wilds of llispaniola, if at nightfall one comrade was missing, all busi- ness was suspended till he was either found or his disappear- ance satisfactorily accounted for. The Lima fleet proved tardy in making its appearance, and the Bucaniers again moved, and came to anchor near Tabago, an island of the bay abounding in cocoa and mammee, and having fine brooks of pure water gliding through groves of fruit-trees. About this time they were nearly ensnared by the stratagem of a Spaniard, who, under pretence of clandestine 15 166 WILLIAM DAMPIER. traffic, sent a fireship among them at midnight; but the treachery was suspected in time, and avoided. This fireship had been fitted up by the same Captain Bond of whom they had heard at the Cape de Verd Islands. He was an English pirate who had deserted to the Spaniards. The squadron, which had been scattered through the night from alarm of the fireship, had scarcely returned to its station, and looked about for the cut anchors, when the freebooters were thrown into fresh consternation by seeing many canoes full of armed men passing through an island-channel and steering direct for them. They also bore up ; but the strangers proved to be a party of two hundred and eighty Bucaniers, French and English, in twenty-eight canoes, wlio had just crossed the isthmus on an expedition to the South Sea. The English seamen, eighty in number, entered with Swan and Davis ; and the flour-prize was given to the French Flibustiers, who entered it under the command of Captain Groignet, their countryman. These strangers announced another party of one hundred and eighty, under Captain Townley, all English, who were at this time constructing canoes to bring them down the rivers into the South Sea; and on the 30th of March these joined the fleet, not, however, in canoes, but in two ships which they had taken as soon as they entered the bay, laden with flour, wine, brandy, and sugar. The squadron was fur- ther increased by the arrival of a vessel under the command of Mr. WilHam Knight ; and the Indians of Santa Martha brought intelligence that yet another strong party, French and English, were on the way. These also arrived, to the number of two hundred and sixty-four men, with three commanders ; one of whom, Le Picard, was a veteran who had served under Lolonnois and Morgan at Porto Bello. The Bucanier force now amounted to about one thousand men ; and the greatest want was coppers to cook provisions for so many. The £ew kettles which they had were kept at work day and night, and a foraging-party sent out to bring in coppers. From intercepted letters it was ascertained that the Lima fleet was now at sea ; and the design upon the city was sus- pended till the plate-ships were first secured, though, as it chanced, in counting on their easy capture, the Bucaniers reckoned without their host. It was now the latter end of May, and for six months the Bucaniers had concentrated their attention on this single en- terprise. Their fleet now consisted often sail; but, save the Bachelor's DeUght, which carried thiity-six guns, and the Cygnet, which wag armed, none were of force, though all were WILLIAM DAMPIKR. 167 fully manned. The Spanish fleet, it was afterward learned, mustered fourteen sail; two of forty guns, one of thirty-six, another of eighteen, and one of eight guns, with large compa- nies to each ship. Two fire-ships attended the Spanish fleet. Before the Bucaniers had finished consultation on their plan of operation, the Spanish fleet advanced upon them, and battle was resolved on. And, " lying to windward of the enemy, we had it," says Dampier, " in our choice whether to fight or not. It was three o'clock in the afternoon when we weighed, and being all under sail, we bore down right afore the wind on our enemies, who kept close on a Avind to come to us; but night came on without any thing besides the exchanging of a few shot on each side. When it grew dark the Spanish admiral put out u light as a signal for his fleet to come to an anchor. We saw this light at the admiral's top for about half an hour, and then it was taken down. In a short time after we saw the light again, and being to windward, we kept under sail, sup- posing the light had been in the admiral's top ; but, as it proved, this was only a stratagem of theirs, for this light was put out the second time at one of the barks' topmast-head, and then she was sent to leeward, which deceived us, for we thought still the light was in the admiral's top, and by that means our- selves to windward of them." At daybreak the Bucaniers found that by this stratagem the Spaniards had got the weath- er-gage of them, and were bearing down full sail, which com- pelled them to run for it; and a running fight was maintained all day, till, having made a turn almost round the bay, they anchored at night whence they had set out in the morning. Thus terminated their hopes of the treasure-ships, though it was afterward learned that the plate had been previously land- ed. The French captain, Groignet, had kept out of the ac- tion, for which he and his crew were aflerward cashiered by their English associates. The common accusation which the English Bucaniers brought against their allies was reluctance to fight ; while the latter blamed their indecent contempt of the Catholic religion, displayed as often as they entered the Spanish churches, by hacking and mutilating every thing with their cutlasses, and firing their pistols at the images of the saints. Next morning the Spanish fleet was seen at anchor three leagues to leeward, and as the breeze sprung up it stood away for Panama, contented with safety and the small advan- tage obtained on the former day. The Bucaniers were equally well satisfied to escape a renewed engagement, and after con- sultation they bore away for the Keys of Quibo to seek Harris, who had been separated from them in the battle or flight. At this appointed rendezvous they met their consort, and a fresh 168 WILLIAM DAHPIEK. consultation made them resolve to march inland and assault Leon, first securing the port of Ria Lexa. The assault and conquest of these places offers nothing of interest or novelty ; they were carried by the united Bucanier force, amounting to six hundred and forty men, with eight vessels, three of them being tenders, and one a fireship. In this assault Dampier was left with sixty men to guard the ca- noes in which the party had been landed. At Leon they lost a veteran Bucanier of the original breed, whom Dampier thus eulogizes: "He was a stout old gray-headed i^an, aged about eighty-four, who had served under Oliver (Cromwell) in the Irish rebelhon ; after which he was at Jamaica, and had fol- lowed privateering ever since. He would not accept the offer our men made him to tarry ashore, but said he would venture as far as the best of them; and when surrounded by the Span- iards, he refused to take quarter, but discharged his gun among them, keeping a pistol still charged; so they shot him dead at a distance. His name was Swan. He was a very merry, hearty old man, and always used to declare he would never take quarter." A Mr. Smith, a merchant or supercargo, who had sailed with Captain Swan from London to trade in the South Sea, was made prisoner on the march to Leon. This city, situated near the Lake of Nicaragua, Dampier describes as one of the most healthy and pleasant in all South America. No sooner were the Bucaniers masters of it than they demanded a ransom of three hundred thousand dollars, which was promised but never paid ; and becoming suspicious that the Spaniards were dallying with them merely to gain time and draw their force to a head, the town was set on fire, and they returned to the coast, first supplying themselves with beef, flour, pitch, tar, cordage, and whatever Leon or Ria Lexa afibrded. One Spanish gentleman, who had been released on engaging to send in one hundred and fifty head of cattle, redeemed his parole with scrupulous honour. Mr. Smith was exchanged for a female prisoner, and Ria Lexa was left burning. The Bucanier squadron now separated, and the fraternity broke into several small detachments, Dampier choosing to follow Captain Swan, who intended first to cruise along the shores of Mexico, the country of the mines, and then, saihng as high as the south-west point of California, cross the Pacific, and return to England by India. This plan presented many temptatic as to Dampier, whose curiosity and thirst of know- ledge were insatiable; and he might also have shared in the hopes of bis comrades, who promised themselves a rich booty in the towns in th^ neighbourhood of the mines before they WILLIAM DAMFIER. 169 turned their faces westward. Captain Townley had kept by Swan when they separated from Eaton, and each ship had now a tender belonging to it. They put to sea on the 3d of September, and encountered frequent and fierce tornadoes till near the end of the month. Early in October they were off tiie excellent harbour of Gautalco, the mouth of which may be known by a great hollow rock, from a hole in which every surge makes the water spout up to a considerable height, like the blowing of a whale. From the sea the neighbouring country looked beautiful. Here they found some provisions, and landed their sick for a few days. The Cygnet and her consort advanced slowly along the coast, landed near Acapulco, plundered a carrier who con- ducted sixty laden mules, and killed eighteen beeves. They next passed on to Colima, their object being that tempting prize which for generations had quickened the avarice of mar- itime adventurers — the Manilla ship, — for which they kept watch at Cape Corientes. After quitting Ria Lexa, many of the men had been seized with a maUgnant fever; and as the same kind of disease broke out in Davis' squadron, it was with some feasibility imputed to infection caught at the place mentioned, where many of the inhabitants had been carried off by a disorder of the same kind some months before the Bucaniers visited the town. To victual the ship for the long voyage in view was one main object of the continued cruise of Captain Swan on this coast ; but the attempts made for this purpose were often baf- fled with loss ; and so much time had now elapsed, that it was concluded the Manilla ship had eluded their vigilance. About the beginning of January, Townley left them in the Bay of Vanderas, and returned towards Panama, carrying home a few Indians of the Darien who had accompanied Swan thus far. The Mosquito-men remained in the Cygnet. To obtain provisions, Swan captured the town of St. Pe- caque, on the coast of New Gallicia, where large stores were kept for supplying the slaves who worked in the neighbouring mines. He brought off on the first day a considerable quanti- ty of provisions on horseback, and on the shoulders of his men. These visits were repeated, a party of Bucaniers keep- ing the town, till the Spaniards had collected a force. Of this Captain Swan gave his men due warning, exhorting them on their way to the canoes with the burdens of maize and other provisions which they carried, to keep together in a compact body; but they chose to follow their own course, every man straggUng singly, while leading his horse, or carrying a load 15* 170 WILLMBI DAMPIER. on his shoulders. They accordingly fell into the ambush the Spaniards had laid for them, and to the amount of fifty were surprised, and mercilessly butchered. The Spaniards, seizing their arms and loaded horses, fled with them before Swan, who heard the distant firing, could come to the assistance of his men. Fifty-four Englishmen and nine blacks fell in this affair, which was the most severe the Bucaniers had encoun- tered in the South Sea. It is in consonance with the spirit of that age to find Dampier relating that Captain Swan had been warned of this disaster by his astrologer.* Many of the men had also, he states in his manuscript journal, foreboded this misfortune, and in the previous ni^iit, while lying in the church of St. Pecaque, " had been disturbed by grievous groanings, which kept them from sleeping." This disheartening affair determined Swan and his dimin- ished company to quit this coast; and they accordingly steered for Cape St. Lucas, the south point of California, to careen, and to refresh themselves before crossing the Pacific ;. but by adverse winds were compelled to put into a bay at the east end of the middle island of the Tres Marias, where they found iguanas, rackoons, rabbits, pigeons, and deer, fish of various kinds, turtle, and seals. There tin careened the ship, divi- ded and stowed the provisions between it and the tender, and went over to the mainland for water, having previously landed the prisoners and pilots, who were now of no use, save to con- sume provisions. That they were abandoned on an uninhab- ited island is said to have been in revenge of the fatal affair of St. Pecaque. While they lay here, Dampier, who had escaped the conta- gious fever, languished under a dropsical complaint, of which several of the men had died. The method of cure was singu- lar, but the patient believed it successful. " I was," he says, "laid and covered all but my head in the hot sand: I endured it near half an hour, and was then taken out, and laid to sweat in a tent: I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the sand, and I do believe it did me much good, for I grew well sooa after." While careening the ship. Swan had more fully laid before his company his plan of going to the East Indies, holding out to them hopes of plunder in a cruise among the Philippines. Dampier describes many of them as so ignorant that they ima- gined it impossible to reach India from California; others en- * It was then customary before uudertoking a voyage to consult an a»- trologer. '\ WILLIAM DAMPIER. 171 s groaiungs, consult an a»- tertained more reasonable fears of their provisions failing be- fore they could reach the Ladrones. Maize, and the fish which the Mosquito-men caught, some of which were salted for store, now constituted the whole provision of above one hun- dred and fifty men, and of this but a short allowance could be afforded daily, calculating on a run of at least sixty days. On the 31 St of March, having all agreed to attempt the voyage, and consented to the straitened allowance, the Cygnet and the tender commanded by Captain Teat sailed from the American coast, steering south-west till she arrived at 13^ N., in which parallel she held due west for the Ladrones. The men received but one meal a day, and there was no occasion, Dampier says, to call them to their victuals, which were serv- ed out by the quarter-master with the exactness of gold. Two dogs and two cats which were on board soon learned to attend daily for their respective shares. The Cygnet enjoyed a fair fresh-blowing trade-wind, and went on briskly, which was some consolation for scanty fare. At the end of twenty days they had made so much progress that the men began to murmur at being still kept upon such short allowance; and by the time they reached Guahan they were almost in open mutiny, and had, it was said, resolved to kill and eat Swan in the first place, and afterward in regular order all who had promoted this voyage ! In the long run of five thousand miles they had seen no living thing, whether bird, fish, or insect, save in longitude 18^ a flock of boobies, presumed to be the denizens of some cliffs or islands, though none were seen. On the 21st of May, near midnight, they had the happiness of coming to anchor on the west side of Guahan, about a mile from the shore, after a run which Dam- pier calculated at seven thousand three hundred and two miles. At this island the Spaniards had a small fort and a garrison of thirty men. Presuming that the Cygnet was a Spanish vessel from Acapulco, a priest came off, and was detained as a host- age till terms of obtaining provisions were arranged; and, as these were dictated by fair principles of exchange, no difficulty was experienced, both the Spaniards and the few natives on the island gladly bringing their goods to a safe and profitable market. The natives and the Spaniards here lived in a state of con- stant hatred if not in open hostility ; and Captain Eaton, who had touched at Guahan on his voyage to India, after parting with Davis on the coast of Peru, had been instigated by the governor to plunder and practise every cruelty upon the islanders. This advice neither himself nor his men were slow to follow. " He gave us leave," says Cowley's manuscript 172 WILLIAM DAMPIER. narrative of the voynge, "to kill and take whatever we could find in one-half of the island where the rebels lived. We then made wars," as Cowley chooses to term wanton unprovoked aggression, " with these infidels, and went on shore every day, fetching provisions, and firing among them wherever we saw them ; so that the greater part of them left the island. The Indians sent two of their captains to treat with us, but we would not treat with them. The whole land is a garden." Dampier reckons that at this time there were not above one hundred Indians on the whole island, as most of those who had escaped slaughter destroyed their plantations, and went to other islands, remote from the tender mercies of the Spaniards and their new allies the Bucaniers. While a friendly and brisk trade was going on between the shore and the Cygnet, the Acapulco vessel came in sight of the island, but was warn- ed ofl^ in time by the governor, without, luckily for herself, having been descried by the Bucaniers. In the eagerness of flight she ran upon a shoal, where her rudder was struck off, nor did she get clear for three days. As soon as the natives informed the Bucaniers of this prize, they " were in a great heat to be after her ;" but Swan, who disliked his present vo- cation, and still hoped to open an honest trafiic at Manilla, though he found it prudent under present circumstances to keep this design secret, persuaded, or as probably frightened, his wild crew out of this humour by representing the dangers of the chase. Suitable presents were exchanged between the governor and the priest and the English captain, and preparations made to depart. Here Dampier first saw the bread-fruit, — the staff of life of so many of the insulated tribes of Polynesia. Of the flying-proas, or sailing canoes of these islands, so often describ- ed, he expresses the highest admiration. " I believe," he says, " they sail the best of any boats in the world ;" one that he tried would, he believed, "run twenty-four miles an hour;" and one had been known to go from Guahan to Manilla, a distance of four hundred and eighty leagues, in four days. It took the Cygnet nineteen days to reach the coast of Min- danao, for which she sailed on the 2d of June ; and after beat- ing about through several channels and islands, she came to anchor on the 18th of July opposite the river's mouth, and be- fore the city of Mindanao. They hoisted English colours, and fired a salute of seven or eight guns, which was returned from the shore by three. Captain Swan had many reasons for desiring to cultivate the friendship of the ruhng powers at Mindanao. Immedi- atelj after the Cygnet came to anchor, Rajah Laut, the brother WILLIAM DAMPIER. 173 and prime minister of the sultan, and the second man in the state, came off in a canoe, rowed with ten oars, to demand whence they were. One of the sultan's sons, who spoke the Spanish language, accompanied his uncle. When informed that the strangers were EngUsh they were welcomed, though Rajah Laut appeared disappointed that they were not come to estabUsh a factory, for which proposals had already been made to him by the East India Company. The conversation was carried on by Mr. Smith, the late prisoner at Ria Lexa, and the sultan's son, who with his uncle remained all the while in the canoe. They promised to assist the English in procuring provisions, and were rowed off without more passing at this time. Dam pier regret« that the offer of a settlement here was not accepted, "by which," he says, "we might better have con- sulted our own profit and satisfaction than by the other roving loose way of life ; so it might probably have proved of public benefit to our nation, and been the means of introducing an English settlement and trade, not only here, but through several of the Spice Islands which lie in its neighbourhood." They had not lain long here when they received another in- vitation to settle in a different island, the sultan of which sent his nephew to Mindanao to negotiate secretly with Cuptaia Swan. The Cygnet's company had not been aware of the dignity of their first visiters till they were gone, when the government- officer informed them; who, according to the customs of the ports of China and other parts in the East, came on board to measure the ship, — a practice of which Dampier could not conceive the reason, unless the natives wished to improve their knowledge of ship-building. In the same afternoon Captain Swan sent Mr. More, one of the supercargoes, to the city with a present for the sultan, con- sisting of three yards of scarlet cloth, three yards of broad gold-lace, a Turkish scimitar, and a pair of pistols ; and to the Rajah Laut, the dignitary they had already seen, three yards of the same cloth with silver-lace. After some preliminary ceremonies, the EngHsh envoy was at night admitted to an audience, to which he was conducted by armed men, accom- panied by servants bearing torches. The sultan, with ten privy-counsellors all seated on carpets, awaited his arrival. The present was graciously accepted, a conference took place in Spanish, after which Mr. More and his attendants, being first treated with supper, returned on board. Next day Cap- tain Swan was invited on shore, whither he went, preceded by two trumpeters. He was conducted to an audience, and en- % M 174 WILLIAM DAMPIER. tertained with betel and tobacco. Two letters were shown him, sent by East India merchants to the sultan, demanding liberty to build a factory and fort, and specifying the terms of traffic, rates of exchange, and of weights and measures. One letter was beautifully written, and between each line there was drawn a line of gold. Another letter, left by a Captain Good- lud, who had lately visited Mindanao, and directed generally to any of the English who might touch there, concluded, " Trust none of them, for they are all thieves ; but tace is Latin for a candle." \fter the interview with the sultan, Captain Swan visited Rajah Laut, who, being rather in disgrace with his brother at this time, had not been present at the audience. He entertain- ed the English captain with boiled fowls and rice, and strongly urged him to bring the ship into the river, as stormy weather was at this season to be expected. He also advised him to warn his men against offending the natives by infringing their customs, and altogether appeared very familiar and friendly. To impress Swan with an idea of his Justice, he ordered a man who had formerly robbed Captain Goodlud to be now punished ; and the miserable wretch was accordingly publicly exposed bound to a post, and stripped naked with his face opposite the scorching sun, while he was shifted round and kept in torture, following its course all day, stung by the gnats and mosquitoes. This was a usifal mode of punishment. His life was at night fall left at the mercy of the English cap- tain, who informed Rajah Laut that he had no right to take cognizance of any crime which had not been committed by his own men and in his own ship. The letters from the company's agents, by convincing Swan that there was a serious intention of establishing a factory at this place, gave him confidence to enter the river, trusting also to the friendly professions of Rajah Laut. The Cygnet was accordingly lighted of part of her cargo, and, with the help of sixty native fishermen. Rajah Laut directing their operations in person, she crossed the bar with the first springtide, and was moored within the mouth of the river. The Bucaniers remained here so long upon a footing of daily intimate inter- course with the townspeople, that Dampier has been enabled to give a very full and minute account of the Mindanaians. A singular custom of the country facilitated easy intercourse with the natives ; though seamen, having their pockets stored with gold and their ships with desirable commodities, who are neither suspected of any sinister intention by the people nor viewed with jealousy by the government, have rarely found the half-civihzed tribes of the Indian islands difficult of access. i' WILLIAM DAMPIER. 175 The custom common in the South Sea Islands of exchang- ing names and forming a comradeship with a native, whose house is henceforward considered the home of the stranger, extended in Mindanao to the other sex, and " an innocent platonic female friend, named a pagally" was ofl'ercd to each of the Enghshmen, besides his male comrade. These friend- ships were, however, not so perfectly disinterested as not to require the cement of presents on the one side and flatteries on the other. In Mindanao, as in more refined parts of the world, tliosc who were best dressed and furnished with gold the most readily obtained companions and pagallies. Under the sanction of this singular national custom the wives of the greatest men might choose friends among the strangers, or be selected ^3 pagallies, and allowed to cootvrse in public with the persons who distinguished them by their choice. On their first arrival, — for they soon declined in favour, owing probably to their own reckless and dissolute manners, — the seamen could not pass along the streets without being com- pelled to enter the houses, where they were presented with betel and tobacco, the cordial hospitality of the givers atoning for the scantiness of this oriental entertainment. To express the vivacity and degree of their afiection, the natives would place the forefingers of both hands close together, saying the English and themselves were like this ; the Dutch were signifi- ed by holding the same fingers six inches apart, and the Span- iards at double that distance. Captain Swan, who still had a large quantity of iron and lead, as well as other goods belong- ing to his owners, meanwhile traded with Rajah Laut,at whose house he dined every day till he established himself at a dwell- ing which he hired iiv the town. Those of the Bucaniers who had money also took houses on shore, lived a jovial life among their comrades and pagallies, and hired female servants from their masters as temporary housekeepers. Besides being the wet season, it was Ramadan time when the Cygnet came to anchor in the river, and amusement and pleasure were nearly suspended in Mindanao ; but as soon as this solemn period was pass(Ml, the Rajah Laut entertained his friend Captain Swan every ni^lil with dances, those bands of regularly trained dancing-women being seen here which are common over all India. But all the females of Mindanao were fond of dancing, which they practised in a ring of forty or fifty, who joined luind-in-hand, singing in chorus, and keeping time ; and though they never nioveil frojn the same spot, making various gesture ■ throwing forward one leg, and clapping their hands at the close of the verse. The Rajah Laut was in re- turn entertained by Captain Swan's men, who performed Eng- 176 WILLIAM DAMPIER, iii. 'fT li t 1.1 ?*, , lish dances to the music of violins, in a ball-room fitted up with gold and silver lace and illuminated by a profusion of wax candles. Dampier relates the very natural mistake into which the rajah fell regarding one of these quarter-deck per- formers. John Thacker, a common Bucanier, though he could neither read nor write, had acquired the accomplishment of dancing about some " of the music houses of Wapping," and coming into the South Sea with Captain Harris, had been so fortunate in acquiring booty, that he now wore fine clothes, and by his superior dress and dancing, was supposed by the natives to be a person of noble extraction. When the rajah, to satisfy his curiosity on this important point, put the question to one of the company, the seaman replied humorously that the conjecture as to Jack's quality was quite correct ; and that most of the ship's company were of like extraction, at least all who wore good clothes and had money, those meanly clad being but common seamen. The rajah from this time por- tioned out his civilities according to the garb of his new friends. Captain Swan was by this time deeply chagrined at the re- sult of his voyage. Most of his crew were turbulent and law- less ; those who had money revelling on shore, and continu- ally involving themselves in qunrrels with the natives, — while those who were poor wore growling on board at the privations they suffered, and the time wasted in inaction. In the num- ber of the penniless was Dampier, who had no means of recre- ation and no source of enjoyment save the fuculty of a power- ful and quick observation, and the delight of entering his remarks in his journal. The single and undivided object of the rest of the crew of the Cygnet was gold — the phmder of the Manilla ship ; nor durst the commander reveal his dislike to their project. About the same time that his crew grew vio- lently discontented, he beciunc himself suspicious of the good faith of his friend Rajah Laut, Avho fi)r the iron and lead wliich he had procured continued to pay with fair promises. Beef was one of the articles which the rajah had promised to the English, and a party went a hunting with him, but found no prey. Dampier, a practised hunter, was always of these parties, and used tlje opportunities they afff)rded to extend his knowledge of the country. In these distant hunting excursions the rajah carried his wives, children, and servants along with him in the proas of the country, which were fitted up with rooms. They settled at some village in the neighbourhood of the hunting-ground, the chief and his family occupying one end of the house and the Englishmen the other. While he «iid his men, who always hunted from dawn till late in the WILLIAM DAMPIER. 177 afternoon, were abroad, the Englishmen were frequently left at home with the women and children. Though these ladies never quitted their own apartments while the chief remained at home, he was no sooner gone than they usually flocked to the strangers' room, asking a thousand questions about the condition of the women, and the fashions and customs of Eng- land. These were the subject of long and earnest argument among themselves, some condemning and others applauding the custom, which all allowed to be singular, of even the king and chiefs having but one wife. Among the proselytes to mo- nogamy was the war-queen or wife, the hidy who enjoyed the privilege of attending the rajah to battle ; and her reasons, if thev did not convince, at least silenced her opponents. During this excursion. Dumpier, from the conversation of the women, considerably increased his acquaintance with the character and customs of the people. They bathed daily, and washed after every meal ; and if they became unclean from touching accidentally any forbidden thing, imderwent scrupu- lous purification. Though associating so intimately with the English, they did not like to drink with nor after them. Wild hogs abounded, but swine's flesh, and cwvy part of that filthy animal, was held in the utmost abhorrence by the Mindanai- ans ; and though they invited the seamen to destroy the ani- mals that came to the city during the night to feed on garbage under the houses, they were ordered to take the swine on hoard, and those who had touched these abominable creatures were (;ver afterward loathed and avoided by the natives, and forbidden their houses. This superstitious dislike was carried to so great a length, that the Rajah Laut returned in a rage a pair of shoes made in the English fashion, of leather he had furnished, and in which he had taken great pride, till he learnv in honour of their native prince. It is the largest and most westerly ol" the group, and was uninhabited. 2. Grafton Island v,as so named by Dampier in compliment to the noble family in whose household he had, as has been mentioned, left his wi.e. 3. Monmouth Island was named by the seamen after the un- fortunate Duke of Monmouth, the son of Charles II. The other two were called the Goat and the Bashee Island, from the number of goats seen on the one, and the abundance of the beverage which gained the approbation of the seamen that was made on the other. The two latter are small islands, lying to the south, in the channel which divides Orange Island from Grafl;on and Monmouth Islands. Monmouth Island is high, and so fenced with steep rocks and precipitous cliffs, that the Bucaniers did not land upon it as they did upon all the other islands. Grafton and Monmouth Islands were thickly inhabited, and on Bashee thcie was one village. The natives were "short squat people, generally round- visaged, with low foreheads and thick eye-brows; their eyes small and hazel-coloured, yet bigger than those of the Chinese; short low noses, their lips and mouths middle-proportioned; ther teeth white, their hair black, thick, and lank, which they wore cut short ; it will just cover their ears, and so is cut round very even," says Dampier, and to this fashion they seemed to attach great importance. Tiieir skins are a dark copper -colour. They wear neither hat, cap, turban, nor any thing to keep off the heat of the sun. The men had a cloth about their middle, and some wore jackets of plantain-leaves, "as rough and bristly as a bear's skin." The women were I M WILLIAM DAMPIER. 181 n clothed with a short cotton petticoat, which fell below the knees; of "a thick, stubborn" cloth that they manufactured themselvf's. Both men and women wore large earrings of a yellow glistering metal, found in the mines in their own moun- tains, resembling gold, but paler in colour. No foreign commodities of any kind were seen among the Basheeans, nor any thing that could have been introduced by sea, save a few bits of iron and pieces of buffalo-hides. In all points they appeared an unmixed race, in their dispositions singularly mild, amiable, and peaceful. Their islands produ- ced plantains, bananas, pumpkins, and plenty of yams, which made the principal part of their food. They had no grain of any kind, and consequently but few fowls, which Dampier never saw in plenty where there was not either maize, rice, or grain of some sort. The dwellings of the islanders, and the places upon which they had perched them, were among the most singular features of their social condition. In describing them we adopt the words of Dampier : — " These people made but low, small houses. The sides, which were made of small posts, wattled with boughs, and not above four feet and a half high : the ridge pole is about seven or eight feet high. They have a fireplace at one end of their houses, and boards placed on the ground to lie on. They inhabit together in small villages built on the sides and tops of rocky hills, three or four rows of houses one above another, under such steep precipices that they go up to the first row with a wooden ladder, and so with a ladder still from every story up to that above it, there being no other way to ascend. The plain on the first precipice may be so wide as to have room both for a row of houses, Avhich «tand all along the edge or brink of it, and a very narrow street running along before their doors, between the row of houses and the foot of the next precipice, the plain of which is in a manner level with the roofs of the houses below, and so for the rest. The common ladder to each row, or street, comes up at a narrow passage, left purposely about the middle of it, and the street being bounded with a precipice also at each end, 'tis but drawing up the ladder if they be assaulted, and then there is no coming at them from below but by climbing a perpendicu- lar wall. And that they may not be assaulted from above they take care to build on the side of such a hill whose back hangs over the sea, or is some high, steep, perpendicular precipice, altogether inaccessible." These precipices and regular ter- races appeared quite natural. Grafton and Monmouth Islands abounded in these rocky fortresses, in which the natives felt id* 182 WILLIAM DAMPIER. and from enemies whether themselves secure from pirates, foreign or domestic. The men of the Bnshee Islands, while the Cygnet lay there, were generally employed in fishing, leaving the plantations to the care of the women. Their weapons were wooden lances, of which only a few were headed with iron ; their armour a buffalo's hide, as thick as a board, which covered them to the knees, having holes for the head and arms. No form of wor- ship was observed among this tribe, nor did any one seem to h ive more authority than another. Every man had one wife, and ruled his own household, — the single wife appearing affec- tionate and happy, and the children respecting and honouring their parents. The boys went out to fish with their fathers, wiiile the girls attended to domestic duties with their mothers. Their plantations were in the valleys, where each family had one; and thither the young girls, as soon as they were able for the task, descended every day from their rocky abodes to dig yams and potatoes, which they carried home on their heads for the use of the family. In no part of the world had Dampier seen people so per- fectly quiet and civil as these islanders. "They dealt justly and with great sincerity," he says, " and made us very wel- come to their houses with Bashee-drink." Meanwhile the cruise off Manilla was not forgotten. Eighty hogs were salted, and yams and potatoes laid up for sea-store. The crew had taken in water, and now only waited the settling of thf' eastern monsoon to take their departure. On the 24th of September the wind shifted to the east, and by midnight blew so fiercely that they were driven to sea, leaving six of their men on the island. It was the 1st of October before they were able to recover their anchoring ground. The natives immediately rowed their comrades on board. As soon as the ship was out of sight, the islanders increased in hospitality and kindness to the strangers left among them. They only stipulated that the Bucaniers should cut their hair in the Ba- shee fashion ; and on this condition offered each of them a wife, and, as a dowry, a plantation and implements of labour. The late storm, their long and profitless cruise, now extend- some of them to years, and the nenalties to which their criminal acts made them all alike liable in every civilized country, combined to depress the spirits of the crew of the Cygnet; and once more every man heartily wished himself at home, "as they ha lone a hundred times before." They were, however, persu d by the captain and master to try one more charce, and agreed to steer for Cape Comorin, for ing with y f ' .-# WILLIAM DAMPIER. 183 ever renouncing the long-indulged dream of capturing the Manilla ship. Dampier believed that the ultiniate object of the pirate commanders was to cruise in the Red Sea, and by one more desperate effort to make or for ever mar their for- tunes. Of all the company none was more heartily tired than our navigator, who had been betrayed into this voyage, and whose thoughts, since leaving Mindanao, had run continually on making his escape to some English settlement. To avoid the danger of meeting English or Dutch ships, with which, in taking the best and most direct course, they were in danger of falling in, they agreed, instead of steering for the Straits of Malacca, to go round the east side of the Philippines, and, keeping south to the Spice Islands, pass these, and enter the Indian Ocean about Timor. To Dampier all routes were alike. "I was well enough satisfied," he says, "knowing that the farther we went the more knowledge and experience I should get, which was the main thing I regarded, and should also have the more variety of places to attempt an escape from them. On the 3d of October they sailed from the Bashee Isles, leaving, for the first time, a somewhat favourable impression of their characters, and bearing away grateful and affectionate remembrances of this gentle and amiable tribe. They steered S. S. W., with the wind at W- and fair weather; and passed certain islands which lie by the north end of Luconia. Leav- ing the coast of this island, and with it "all their golden pros- pects," they steered southward, keeping to the east of the Philippines, and on the 15th anchored between the two small islands named Candigar and Sarangan, near the south-east end of Mindanao; and next day, at the north-west end of the most easterly of the islands, found a fit place to careen and refit the ship. While they lay here the nephew of the sultan, who, in name of his uncle, had formerly been treating with Captain Swan to visit and garrison his island, and take in a cargo of spice, came on board and requested a passage home, as they were understood to be going southward. From him they ob- tained intelligence of Captain Swan and their deserted com- rades, who had been fighting under Rajah Laut with a hostile tribe in the interior. The Englishmen had conducted them- selves so bravely in fight, that they were now in high favour at Mindanao; though it was feared they had been found too powerful and useful as allies to be permitted easily to leave their new service. Swan had for some time been a'.tempting, unsuccessfiiUy, to hire a vessel to convey him to Fort St. George. 184 WILLIAM DAMPIER. nI: At this time Dampier took an opportunity of persuading the men to return to their duty, to carry the ship back to the river of Mindanao, and give her up to the true commander; but before this could be effected, one man, who seemed the most zealously to embrace the proposal, gave information, and Captain Read deemed it prudent to weigh anchor with all ex- pedition, and without waiting the arrival of the prince, to whom a passage had been promised. Read held a course south-west, and once more disappointed the hopes of Dampier, who be- lieved that, by carrying home the young chief, they might, at his uncle's island, establish a factory and a lawful traffic. The ultimate fate of Captain Swan, of whom we are now to lose sight, was not a little painful. Two supercargoes or merchants of the ship, Harthop and Smith, died at Mindanao; and when the commander, after a series of vexations and dis- appointments, was going out to a Dutch vessel which lay in the river, hoping to get away at last, the boat was run down by the emissaries of Rajah Laut, and Swan and the surgeon were either drowned or killed in the water. The property of the English captain was immediately seized by the perfidious chief, who justified his conduct by imputing as crimes to the unfortunate Englishman the idle impotent threats wrung from him by hope deferred, irritation, and grief. The Cygnet continued her bootless voyage among the isl- ands and channels of the Philippines on to the Spice Isles, and anchored off Celebes, where the seamen obtained a supply of turtle, and found, among other shellfish, cockles of so mon- strous a size that the meat of one of them made a meal for seven or eight persons. It was palatable and wholesome. Here they also found a vine, of which the leaves, pounded and boiled with lard, made an infiillible sea-salve. One of the company had formerly learned its uses from the Indians of the Darien; and most of the seamen now laid up a store, such as had ulcers finding great benefit from its healing properties. On the 29th of November they left this place ; and after en- countering the dangers of the shoals which surround Celebes, and experiencing fierce tornadoes, on the 1st of December saw, and on the 5th approached, the north-west end of the island of Bouton. On the evening of the 30th they had seen at a distance two or three water-spouts, but escaped them all. An Indian who spoke the Malay tongue came on board at this time with some of the turtle-strikers, and informed them of a good harbour on the east side of Bouton, for which they sailed. They came to anchor within a league of Callasusungy a clean and iiandsome town, situated upon a hill in the middle v; WILLIAM DAMPIER. 185 of a fertile plain, surrounded with cocoa-trees. The people resembled the inhabitants of Mindanao, and their houses were built in the same style ; but they appeared in all respects more " neat and tight." They were Mohammedans, and spoke the Malay language. The same description seems to fit every sultan whom tlie voyagers saw, — " a little man about forty or fifty, with a great many M'ives and children." Unaware of the exact character of his visiters, the Sultan of Bouton was pleas- ed to hear that they were English, and made them a visit in a handsomely ornamented proa, with a white silk flag displayed at the masthead, edged with red, and having in the centre, neatly painted, the device of the prince, — a green griflSn trampling upon a dragon or winged serpent. They had no object in remaining here ; and as a forlorn hope, or from curiosity, resolved to steer for New-Holland, "to see what that country could afford them." In leaving Bouton they got among shoals, and it was about three weeks before they passed Timor, and got clear of all the dangers of this chain. They stood off* south, and on the 4th of January fell in with the north-west coast of New-Holland in IG^ 50". They ran close in, but found no safe anchoring-ground, as the coast lay open to the N. E. They steered for about twelve leagues N. E. by E., keeping close in by the shore, and reach- ed a point, three leagues to the eastward of which they found a deep bay with many islets, and finally anchored at: about a mile from the land. Seeing people walking on the shore, a canoe was sent ofi^, but the natives ran away and hid them- selves; and though traces of fires were seen, no habitation could be discovered. Toys and trinkets were left on the shore at such places as the people were likely to find them. The coast here was low and level, with sandb inks. No water could be found, though at several places old wells were seen dry in the sandy bays. Having failed of their object on the mainland, neither provisions nor water being found, nor a hope of them, some of the boats visited the islands in the bay, and surprised a party of the natives. The men at first threat- ened the intruders, and showed their lances and swords; but the noise of a single jruii frightened them, and the women seemed in very great alarm. Screaming, they ran away with their children, while the men stood to parley. Those who from sickness or feebleness were unable to follow, lay still by their fires utteri-i;; dileful lamentations; but when it was seen that no harm v '.s intended them, they became tranquil, and many of the fugifives returned. The Bucaniers hf.d entertained no design against these wretched people more flagitious than to make them labour in i: « IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^O /^/1^> " " ^>^ 1.25 I^IM 125 itt lU M2.2 Z L£ 110 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation >.y ^^&^ main strut V/iUTU,N.Y. I4SM (716)I72-4S03 ^I-^ 186 WILLIAM DAMPIER. carrying the water-casks to the boats. To this they tried to bribe them with ragged shirts and old breeches, finery which could have charmed some of the insular families of the Pacific, though they were totally disregarded by the inert natives of New-Holland, whose first associations with European finery were connected with hard and compulsory labour. " We put them on them,** says Dampier, speaking of the tattered rags of the Bucaniers, " thinking this finery would make them work heartily for us ; and our water being filled in barrels of about six gallons, we brought these new servants to the wells, and put a barrel on each of their shoulders to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we could make were to no purpose; for they stood like statues without motion, but grinned like so many monkeys, staring upon one another." It was found that they had not even strength sufiicient for the task of being carriers of water ; and Dampier believed that an English ship boy of ten years old would have been able to bear heavier burdens than these feeble savages. " So we were forced," he says, "to carry our water ourselves ; and they very fairly put the. clothes off again, and laid them down, as if clothes were only to work in. I did not perceive," he adds, " that they had any great liking to them at first ; neither did they seem to admire any thing we had." The Mosquito-men were busily employed during the time that the ship was cleaned and the sails repaired; nor did Dampier miss the opportunity of once again persuading his messmates to go to some English factory and surrender the vessel and themselves. The threat of being left: on this bar- ren and melancholy coast, among the most wretched of the human race, compelled him to consult his prudence rather than his duty, and to wait a fairer chance of escape. The destination of the Cygnet was still Cape Comorin ; and on the 4th of May they made the Nicobar Islands, the chief commodities of which were ambergris and fruits, which the inhabitants disposed of to any European vessels that chanced to visit them. Dampier now openly expressed his intention of leaving the ship ; and Captain Read, believing that he could not more effectually punish his refractory shipmate than by granting his wish, and leaving him at this island, at once gave him leave to go on shore. Lest Read might change his mind, Dampier immediately lowered his bedding and chest, and got some one to row him to the land. He had not been long on shore when a party were sent from the ship to bring him back, and he complied, aware that if he persisted in going away against their. will, the Bucaniers would not hesitate to make a descent on Ibe coast and kill some of the natives, who would "F'Y WILLIAM DAMPIER. 187 ' in turn revenge themselves on him. On returning to the ship, he found that his spirited example had moved some of the other persons who had long entertained a similar design of effecting their escape, and three of them now joined his party, of whom the surgeon was one. Thj captain and crew refu- sed on any terms to let the surgeon depart ; but after some altercation Dampier and his two companions, on a fine clear moonlight night, were landed and left in a sandy bay of this unknown island. One of the seamen who rowed them ashore stole an axe and gave it to them, cs the means of propitiating the natives, or of buying provisions. They were speedily joined by four Acheenese previously found in a captured proa, whom Captain Read released before setting saij; and now they fancied themselves strong enough to row to Sumatra. A Por- tuguese, taken prisoner by the Bucaniers long before, was also landed, and the party of eight considered itself abN for de- fence if attacked by the natives, though no one offert 1 to dis- turb them. From the owner of an empty hut in which they slept they bought a canoe with the stolen axe, and, placing their goods in it, embarked for Acheen. It upset as soon as under way, and though no life was lost their clothes were wetted, and what to Dampier was of far greater importance, the journals of many years and his drafts were damaged. Three days were spent in drying their things, and altering their canoe into a sailing boat, which was expertly done by the Acheenese, who fitted her with a mast, outriggers, and suit of mat-sails. With the natives, who watched all their movements, though more from curiosity than suspicion, they bartered rags and strips* of cloth for mellory, — a fruit the size of the bread-fruit, shaped like a pear with a tough, smooth, light-green rind, which Dampier asserts is confined to these islands. ' They also ob- tained cocoanuts, which the Acheenese gathered, and might have had hogs, but that they did not choose to disgust their Malayan friends, who were Mahommedans. Once more they embarked in their frail vessel, their only guides a pocket com- pass, with which Dampier had provided himself, and a sketch of the Indian Seas, which, contemplating escape, he had pre- viously from a chart in the ship, copied into his pocket-book. They had been out three days when the weather became threatening and soon rose to a tempest. We shall employ the striking language of Dampier himself to describe what follow- *A strip of cloth which those islanders wear attached to their slight covei^ ing led Linseus into the ludicrous mistake of asserting, on the authority of an ignorant Swedish sailor, that here existed a race of men wiT^ ' " ■^■i**" V 188 WILLIAM DAMPIER. ed, nor, while it reveals so much of his true character and feelings, could a better specimen of his more elevated and earnest style be easily selected : — ** The wind continued increasing all the afternoon, and the sea still swelled higher and often broke, but did us no damage ; for the ends of the vessel being very narrow, he that steered received and broke the sea on his back, and so kept it from coming in, which we were forced to keep heaving out contin- ually. The evening of this day was very dismal. The sky looked very black, being covered with dark clouds. The wind blew hard, and the seas ran high. The sea was already roar- ing in a white foam about us; a dark night coming on, no land to shelter us, and our little bark in danger to be swallow- ed by every wave ; and, what was worst of all, none of us thought ourselves prepared for another world. I had been in many imminent dangers before now, but the worst of them all was but play-game in comparison with this. I hadjong before this repented me of that roving course of life, but never with such concern as now. I did also call to mind the many mira- culous acts of God's providence towards me in the whole course of my life, of which kind, 1 believe few men have met the like. And for all these I returned thanks in a peculiar manner, and once more desired God's assistance, and com- posed my mind as well as I could in the hopes of it, and, as the event showed, I was not disappointed of my hopes. Sub- mitting ourselves therefore to God's good providence, and taking all the care we could to preserve our lives, Mr. Hall and I took turns to steer, and the rest to heave out the water ; and thus we provided to spend the most doleful night I ever was in." The pious trust of Dampier and his companions did not fail them. After enduring great hardship, they reached a small fishing village in a river's mouth, of the Island of Sumatra, at which their companions, the Malays of Acheen, were previ- ously acquainted. They were so much exhausted when they arrived here as to be unable to row their canoe to the village, — another example of the sudden prostration of strength to which persons who have been in imminent jeopardy are liable as soon as the danger appears to be past. The people of the placfc assisted them in, and a chief who came to see them, being given to understand that they were prisoners escaped like the Acheenese from the pirates, treated them with great kindness. A house was provided for their reception, and fur more provisions sent to it than they could use, as they were all sick from excessive fatigue, and the cold and heat to which they had aUernateljr been exposed, now scorching unsheltered ' Urn WILLIAM DAMPIEA. 180 ter and ted and and the amage ; steered : it from : contin- rhe sky 'he wind idy roar- ; on, no swallow- :ie of us I been in them all ig before 3ver with iny mira- he whole liave met peculiar ind com- t, and, as 3S. Sub- nce, and Hall and Iter; and It I ever d not fail I a small matra, at ere previ- rhen they tillage, — I to which liable as tie of the tee them, escaped ith great , and far ley were to which isheltered in the noontide sun, and again bleaching in the chill rains of midnight. After resting for ten days, though not yet restored to heakh, they entreated to be allowed to proceed to Acheen to their countrymen ; and they were provided with a large proa, and permitted to depart. On their arrival at Acheen they were strictly examined by the native magistrate, and then given up to the care of an Irish gentleman connected with the factory. The Portuguese died, and Ambrose, one of the Englishmen who left the Cygnet did not long survive him. Dampiec, originally robust, and whose constitution was now by his hardy mode of life almost invincible, recovered, though slowly ; the remedies of a Malay doctor, to whose care he was committed, having proved worse than the original disease. We may here take a farewell glance of the Bucaniers, and especially of those left by Dampier in the South Sea. In pur- suing their ol' vocation they became more successful after tlie Cygnet crossed the Pacific. They captured many vessels, and revelled in the plunder of several towns ; sometimes cruising together, but as often in detached bands. Townley was so far fortunate as to obtain with ease at Lavelia the trea- sure and merchandise landed from the Lima ship on the for- mer year, for which Swan had watched so long in vain, and for which the whole Bucanier force had battled in the Bay of Panama. Townley afterward died of wounds received in another attack. The French party stormed Granada; and Groignet, dying of his wounds, was succeeded by Le Picard. Harris followed S^an across the Pacific ; and Knight, satiated with plunder, returned by Cape Horn to the West Indies. The French Flibustiers countenanced by their government, continued to ilourish during the war which followed the ac- cession of William III. to the throne of England. At length Bucaniering having been severely checked, changed into the more legitimate channel of privateering ; yet for more than twenty years, a few desperate characters, English, or English Creoles, outlaws or deserters, pretending to be the true suc- cessors of the old Rovers, who had strictly limited their depre- dations to the Spanish West Indies, continued to infest the commerce of every nation, and haunted every sea from Cape Wrath to the islands of the Indian Ocean, wherever robbery could be practised with impunity either by land or water. As to Dampier, want of room forbids us to describe minute- ly the further progress of this voyage in all its details ; suffice it to say that after some time spent at Fort St. George on the island of Bencoolen, an English vessel arrived from Mindanao, laden with clove bark, and having on board an Indian prince by th6 name of Jeoly, whom Dampier had formerly seen as a 17 ...^i; %f. 190 WILLIAM DAMPIER. dave at that place, and whom Mr. Moody, the supercargo of the ship, had purchased from his owner on a speculation. In this speculation Dampier now became interested, and con- cluded to return home in the ship. The voyage from the ill- ness of the crew proved tedious and troublesome, but it was completed at last ; though the same bad fortune which had attended Dampier at so many turns of life deprived him of all advantage from bringing home Jeoly. He arrived in the Thames in utter poverty, and was compelled by necessity to sell his share of the " painted prince ;*' thus forever renounc- ing the project of carrying him back to Meangis, v hich poor Jeoly was destined never again to revisit. After being seen by many *' eminent persons," he caught the small-pox at Ox- ford, and died. Of Dampier at this time we hear no more. The narrative of his eight years' ramble around the globe breaks off abruptly by saying, " We luffed in for the Downs, where we anchored, Sept. 16th, 1691." In 1699, under the patronage of the Earl of Pembroke, Dampier undertook a voyage of discovery to New-Hollnnd, which terminated in several important geographical results. In this voyage Dampier gave name to islands, capes, promon- tories, straits, and so forth, in the South Seas, of which Euro- peans had before but little if any knowledge. On the return home from this voyage, while near the island of Ascension, the ship being old and damaged, sprung a leak, and was obliged to be abandoned. Dampier remained on board to the very last. He had to regret the loss of many of his books and pa- pers, and a collection of shells gathered at New-Holland. After remaining at Ascension about five weeks, an Indiaman and three EngUsh ships of war came into the bay. In these Dampier and his crew took passage home. Captain Dampier had not be<$n long at home when the death of King William III. took place, and was followed by the war of the Succession. Among the private enterprises attending this war with France and Spain was extensive privateering; and he obtained the command of the St. George and Cinque Ports, two vessels equipped by a company of English mer- chants, and intended to cruise against the Spaniards in the South Seas. The St. George lefl the Downs in April, 1703, with Captain Dampier on board ; but it was September before bot!i vessels lefl Kinsale. The basis of the expedition was the old Bucanier maxim, no fey , no pay, — a principle ill-adapted to the maintenance of discipline or order in a ship. In this voyage Dampier had in view three special objects, — namely, the capturt df the Spanish galleons that sailed from !^uenos WILLIAM DAMPIER. 191 Ayres; and, failing that, to pass the Straits of Magellan, or double Cape Horn, and lie in wait for the ship that carried gold from Baldivia to Lima ; or, finally, the oft-attempted ex- ploit of the seizure of the Manilla galleon. The St. George carried twenty-six guns, and a crew of one hundred and twenty. Before the voyage was well begun quarrels broke out among these irresponsible officers, and some of them quitted the ship, while the commander, without being invested with salutary power to restrain them, was left to bear the blame of the mis- conduct of the whole company. The ships doubled Cape Horn, and reached Juan Fernan- dez without any remarkable adventure. While lying here a strange sail was seen, to which both ships gave chase. She proved to be a French ship cruising in these seas, and so strongly did the old Bucanier associations influence Dampier, that he acknowledged it was with reluctance he attacked a European vessel of whatever nation. He however engaged, and after a fight of seven hours, in which both ships suffered considerably, they parted. Before the proper latitude was reached, the Baldivia treasure- ships had sailed. Though Dumpier was the nominal com- mander, StradHng, in the Cinque Ports, acted independently; and as they differed about their future operations, the ships parted company. A design to surprise Santa Maria in the Bay of Panama failed ; and though Dampier captured a few small vessels, he obtained no prize of any value. While lying in the Gulf ofNicoya, the commander and his chief mate, John Clipperton, quarrelled, and the latter, with twenty-one of the crew, seized the tender, in which were most of the ammunition and stores, and put out to sea. It is alleged that Clipperton at this time stole his commander's commission. No captain ever sailed with a worse-disposed and more turbur lent set of men and officers than those whom Dampier now commanded. They had all the bad qualities of Bucauers, without their bravery, experience, and hardihood. The St. George bore northward, and on the 6th of Decem- ber, while only a short way beyond Port de Navidad, descried a sail, which proved to be the Manilla galleon. The Manilla ship had no suspicion of any enemy being on this coast, and she received several broadsides from the St George before be- ing cleared for action. Even taken thus at disadvantage, when her guns, which were of far heavier metal, were brought into play, they at once drove in the rotten planks of the St George, and obliged Dampier to sheer off. Th^ galleon aLK> held on. It is presumed that the number of her men quadrupled those of the English ship, and her guns were eighteen aqd twenty- , ♦ ;> ■ « 192 WILLIAM DAMPIER. four pounders, while those of the St. George were oclj five- pounders. This proved a bitter disappointnrent, and the men became more and more impatient to end so profitless and fatiguing u voyage. In hopes of better fortune, they were, however, '.ndu- ced to continue the cruise for a few weeks longer on the const of New Spain ; but this produced nothing, and it was agreed to part company. One party, instigated by Funnel, the men- dacious historian of the voyage, resolved to sail for India, and by this route return home. A brigantine of seventy tons which had been captured was given up to him, and the thirty-four men who chose to follow his counsels ; and the stores, small arms, and ammunition were divided, four of the St. George's guns being also given to this party. Dampier's crew was thus left reduced to twenty-nine. Aflcr refitting his crazy disabled ship he returned to the coast of Peru. They plundered the town of Puna, and cruised along till their ship was no longer fit to keep the sea, when they abandoned her riding at anchor at Lobos de la Mar, and embarking in a brigantine which they had captured from the Spaniards, crossed the Pacific. Of this voyage, and of the subsequent misfortunes of Dam- pier in India, there remain no certain or distinct accounts. It is however known, that, not having a commission to show, he was thrown into prison by the Dutch, but was at length libera- ted and returned home. The fortunes of Dampier must have been at a very low ebb when he returned to England after this disastrous voyage ; and it is with pain we find this veteran navigator, as much distin- guished by superiority of understanding as by nautical skill and experience, obUged, in 1708, to act as a pilot under younger and very inferior commanders. This, which was Dampier*s last voyage, again proved to be one round the world, and was undertaken in the Duke and Duchess, two privateers fitted out by several Bristol merchants. Copious narratives of this voyage are written by the com- manders, Woodes Rogers and Cook, but it is only incidentally that we learn any thing from them of their distinguished pilot. At Juan Fernandez, Woodes Rogers, on this voyage, brought oflf the celebrated Alexander Selkirk, who had been left or rather abandoned here by Dampier's violent and tyran- nical consort, Captain Stradling, four years previously. On the recommendation of Dampier, Selkirk was made second mate of the Duke. The cruise of thO'^privateers was successful. After captur- ing several rich prizes, they turned their thoughts homeward, and hMfuig the usual track of the galleons, reached Guahan WILLIAM DAMPIER. 193 on the lOtli of March, after a run of exactly two months, and anchored under Spanish colours. Apart from this renial de- ception, employed to facilitate the purchase of suppHes, the conduct of the EngHsh privateers was unexceptionable. They rested for ten days, and made the north of Gilolo in about a month afterward. At Bouton they stopped to take in proTis* ions and water, and next sailed for Batavia, where they expe- rienced those noxious effects of climate from which hardly any ship's company escapes at that most unhealthy station. They sailed from Batavia in the end of October, waited long at the Cape for a homeward-bound fleet, and coming round tlie north of Scotland, five-and -twenty sail, Dutch and Eng- lish, anchored in the Texel in July of the following year, and in October, 1711, came to the Thames with booty in money and merchandize valued at £150,000. From this date we hear no more of Captain Dampier, whose name appears less frequently in the narrative of Rogers than, from the eminent nautical abilities of the man who bore it, it ought to have done. In difficulties he was, it appears, constantly applied to, and his former knowledge and experience taken as guides. At Bou- ton, where he had been in the Cygnet, he was intrusted to carry the present to the sultan; and, from respect to his judgment and integrity, he was also chosen umpire in the very delicate flffair of deciding what was plunder for immediate division, and in allotting the respective shares. Dampier was of the number of those men distinguished above their fellows, ** who are not without honour save in their own country;'* or if at home his merits were appreciated, wanting the most worthless quality of success, the glare and show, they failed of their reward. By French and Dutch nav- igators and men of science he has been uniformly regarded witlin the warmest admiration, as a man to whose professional eminence his own country has scarce done justice. They de- light to style him the "eminent," the "skilful," the "exact,** the " incomparable Dampier." Humboldt has borne testimo- ny to his merits, placing the Bucanier seaman above those men of science who afterward went over the same ground; Malte Brun terms him "the learned Dampier; and the author of the voyages to Australia inquires, " Mais ou trouve-t-on des Navigateurs comparahlet a DfoipierV^* The acuteness, ac- curacy, and clearness of his nautical observations, and of his descriptions and general remarks, have made his voyages be assumed by foreign navigators as unerring guides and authori- * But where shall we find luvigatort to be compeied wilH Am|^ f * 194 WILLIAM DAMPIER- ties in all subsequent expeditions ; and his rapidity and power of i^servation are fully as remarkable as his accuracy. His hasty glance at the places of New-Holland where he touched, has left subsequent voyagers little to do save to verify his de- scriptions. Dampier'^s veracity has in no instance been ques- tioned, even by those the most disposed to cavil at facts which, being remote from tlieir limited experience, appear extraor- dinary or impossible. Other writers, combining into one the relations of many different travellers, have amplified his de- scriptions; but there is no detached account of the countries he visited more full of vital interest and exact information than the voyages of this wandering seaman. The succession of brilliant discoveries which illustrated the early part of the reign of George III. for a time threw the ad- ventures of Dampier, and of every previous navigator, into the shade, but they are again emerging into popularity. Compar- ed with the voyages of recent navigators, his long sohtary rambles are as the emprises of the single knightly combatant, bearing no proportion to the magnitude and splendour of regu- lar battle-field, but, from their individuality, often commanding a more intense and powerful, because a more concentrated, interest. The cloud which rested on the personal character of Dam^ p:' • *'• ^m the ignorance or misrepresentations of envious con- te> aries, and the carelessness and haste with which writers foi I. press copy from each other and adopt current state- ments, is fast clearing away. " It is not easy to name another voyager w traveller who hag given more useful information to the world, or to whom the merchant and the mariner are more indebted." The philoso- pher and the naturalist, have rarely been so much indebted to any adventurer whose pursuits were so entirely remote from their subjects of speculation. Though the life of this navigator was spent in incessant ac- tion, his natural genius appears to have been rather speculative than enterprising. He liked to reason and to scheme, and lost sight of present small but certain advantage in extensive and brilliant plans for the future, which his evil fortune forbade him to realize. If, indeed, there be such things as good and bad fortune in human affairs indca>endent of skill and exertion, Dampier may be pointed out as an example of what the world calls an unlucky man,— one to whom every event proves ad- verse, — who seems singled out for misfortune. Except the capital error of the mode of life upon which he entered, none of his misadventures can be traced to himself; and this law- less life enriched many of his contemporaries, while it kept •i; WILLIAM DAMPIER. 195 him in poverty and left him a beggar. In relating its inci- dents, he has never once attempted to justify or palliate his manner of existence for so many years. Amid the vicissi- tudes and temptations to which it exposed him, his excellent understanding and the principles he had imbibed in the vir- tuous household of a Somersetshire yeoman preserved him, if not entirely spotless from evil contagion, yet from that decay and deadness of moral feeling which are of the worst conse- quences of vicious companionship. He was humane, just in tlie most strict and also in the most liberal sense, candid and charitable in his judgments, and (rare virtues in a Bucanier!) orderly and temperate, detesting the riotous excess of his asso- ciates. Get over the stumbling-block of his early life being squariid by " the good old rule," and Dampier the Bucanier was a virtuous man. In the South Sea, and afterward in the Cygnet, he might have obtained command, such was the re- spect his shipmates entertamed for his abilities ; but the love of adventure was his strongest passion, and his sole ambition the acquisition of knowledge. He appears latterly to have deeply felt the disgrace and galling servitude of his lawless life, and serious reflection and remorseful feelings pressed upon his mind with great force long before he was able to get free of his wild associates in the Cygnet. By the time that Dampier returned to England with Woodes Rogers he was far advanced in life, and his career for forty years had been one of unremitting hardihood and professional exertion. It is therefore probable that he never embarked in any subsequent voyage ; and as the remaining part of his lifr, whether long or short, is involved in complete obscurity, there is but too much reason to believe that it was passed in neglect, if not in poverty. Of this eminent seaman and traveller, though little more than a century can have elapsed since his death, no one is able now to tell how the evening of his life was spent, when he died, or where he was buried. Had he expired in some remote island of the Pacific, or perished in the element on which so great a portion of his life was passed, some inu perfect record might have remained to satisfy our natural desire to know the last of the worn-out and veteran navigator; but it was his fate to sink unheeded amid the conflicting waves and tides of society ; and no memorial or tradition remains of his death, in whose remarkable life the adventures of Selkirk, Wafer, and the Bucanier commanders of the South Sea ap- pear but as episodes. So much for human fame ! -^ ."?« *" »\. f ■ « •A- vt\;t CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. The first expedition of importance, fitted out whoify for scientific objects, was that intrusted to the command of the celebrated Captain James Cook. This great navigator was born of humble parents : his father was an agricultural la- bourer, whose steady conduct was at length rewarded by his employer with the situation of hind or under steward. As he had nine children, and his means were slender, he was unable to assist materially their individual exertions toprocoff a livelihood. James, when thirteen years of age, was appren- ticed to a shopkeeper at Straiths, a fishing town not far from Whitby ; but the predilection of young Cook for the sea was soon maiiifegted with that strength of inclination which is sure JAMBS COOK. m to accompany peculiar ia!ent8. He engaged himself for seven years with the owners of some ships employed in the coal trade ; and, when the period of his engagement was expired, he was promoted by his employers to the rank of mate of one of their vessels. The coal trade of England, being chiefly carried on near a singularly dangerous coast, where unceasing vigilance is required on the part of the seamen, constitutes the best school of practical mariners in the world. Cook, who obeyed his own inclinations when he turned sailor, profited, no doubt, in the highest degree, from the opportunities which his coasting voyages afforded him of becoming acquainted with the practical part of navigation. At length, being in the Thames, in 1755, when impressments were carried on to a great extent, he resolved to anticipate the impending neces- sity, and offered himself to serve on board the Eagle, a man- of-war of sixty guns. Shortly after, the friends and piitrons of his family in Yorkshire having warmly recommended his interests to the care of Mr.09bnidiston,the member for Scarbo- rough, and captain (afterwards Sir Hugh) PaHiser, who com- manded the Eagle, reporting well of his conduct and capacity, he was appointed master of the Mercury, a small vessel which soon afterwards joined the fleet of Sir Charles Saunders in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Here the talents and resolution of Cook soon became conspicuous. It was found necessary, in order that the fleet might co> operate with the army under General Wolfe, that it should take up a position along the shore in front of the French encamp- ments ; but before this manoeuvre could be put in execution,, the channel of the river was to be sounded. This difiicult task required the union of more than ordinary intelligence and in- trepidity, and Cook was the person selected for the purpose^ For several nights he carried on his operations unperceived ; but ^t length the enemy discovered his movements, and, send- ing out a great number of boats after it grew dark, attempted to surround and cut him off. Cook pushed for the Isle of Or- leans ; and so narrowly did he escape being captured, that as he stepped on shore from the bow of his boat^ the Indians in pursuit of him entered at the stern ; and the boat itself, which was a pinnace belonging to a man-of-war, was carried off by the enemy. Cook, however, had accomplished his task, and laid before the admiral of the fleet a survey of the channel, which was found to be both full and accurate. After the con- quest of Quebec he was appointed to examine the more diffi-^ cult portions of the river St. Lawrence, with the navigation of which the English had but little acquaintance. Hie zeal and abilities soon after procured him on appointment as nuister to ♦^ 198 JAME8 COOKt the Northumberland, which bore the commodore's flag at Hali* fax. Here hs found leisure to apply himself to the study of elementary mathematics, and to improve those talents as a practical hydrographer of which he had given such ample proofs in his first rud& essays. An opportunity also soon oc- curred of displaying his improvement by surveying a part of the coast of Newfoundland. This island had lately fallen into the power of the English ; and its importance as a fishing station being fully appreciated by Sir Hugh Palliser, who was ap- pointed governor in the year 1764, he strongly represented to government the necessity of making an accurate survey of its coasts ; and, accordingly, by his recommendation. Cook was appointed marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labra- dor, and the Grenville schooner was placed under his com- mand for this purpose. The manner in which Cook executed this task confirmed the high opinion already entertained of his zeal and ability. A short paper which he communicated to the Royal Society on an eclipse of the sun observed in New- foundland, and the longitude of the place as calculated from it, procured him the character of a respectable mathematician. But still higher honours awaited him. The transit of the planet Venus over the sun's disc, calculated to take place in 1769, was looked forward to by the scientific world with much anxious interest ; and it was earnestly desired that all the ad- vantage which could be derived to science from so rare a phe- nomenon might be secured by observing it in distant quarters of the globe. In accordance with this view, the Royal So- ciety presented an address to the king, setting forth the advan- tage of observing the transit in the opposite hemisphere, their inabihty to fit out an expedition for the purpose, and praying his majesty to equip a vessel to be despatched to the South Sea under their direction. This petition was at once comfrfied with. The person at first designed to command the expedi- tion was Mr. Dalrymple, chief hydrographer to the Admiralty, and no less celebrated for his geographical knowledge than for his zeal in maintaining the existence of an Australian conti- nent. Dalrymple had never held a commission in his majes- ty's navy ; and the experience of Dr. Hallcy had proved that one so circumstanced cannot expect obedience from a crew subjected to the discipline of the navy. The pride of the pro- fession scorns to submit to those who have not acquired their authority by passing through the ordinary routine of promo- tion. Dalrymple, however, refused to engage in the expedition unless with the amplest powers of a commander. The admi- ralty, on the other hand, were unwilling to intrust him with powers which might embroil him with his officers. Neither .^*-' '^ JAMES COOK. 199 party would yield ; and, while the affair thus remained in sus- pense, Cook was proposed. Enquiries were then made as to his abilities ; and, as all who knew him spOke favourably of him, and great confidence is usually felt in the steady and con- centrated talents of the self-taught, he was chosen to command the expedition, being first promoted to the rank of lieutenant. It is a proof of Cook's natural strength of understanding, that his mind was not enslaved by habit, but that he was always ready to introduce innovations into his practice when- ever they were recommended by common sense and experi- ence. Instead of selecting a frigate, or vessel of that descrip- tion, for his voyage, he chose a vessel buik for the coal trade, with the sailing qualities of which he was well acquainted. He justly represented, that a ship of this kind was more capa- ble of carrying the stores requisite for a long voyage ; was ex- posed to less hazard in running near coasts — an object of great importance in a voyage o£» discovery ; was less affected by currents; and, in case of any accident, might, without much difficulty or danger, be laid on shore to undergo repairs. The ship which he chose was of three hundred and sixty tons bur- den, and named the Endeavour. No pains were spared by the Admiralty in fitting her out for the voyage ; and, as the improvement of science was its main object, persons qualified to attain the desired end were appointed to accompany the ex- pedition. Mr. Green was named by the Royal Society as the astronomer ; Dr. Solander, a learned Swede and pupil (tf Lin- neeus, went as naturalist; Mr. (afterwards Sir Joseph) Banks, a gentleman of large fortune, and at that time very young, who afterwards reflected so much lustre on his country by devoting a long life and ample means to the interests of learning, re- nounced the ease to which his affluence entitled him, and commenced his active and honourable career by a voyage round the Avorld. Being accompanied by able draftsmen, and being himself zealously attached to the study of natural histo- ry, and amply provided with every thing conducive to the gratification of his favourite pursuit ; being at the same time of a lively, open, Hberal, and courageous temper, his company was no less agrernible than it was advaiftageous. Before the preparations wei : completed, Captain Wallis returned from his voyage round the world ; and having been advised to fix on some spot in the South Sea conveniently situated for the erection of an observatory, he named Port Royal in King George the Third's Island as a place well adapted for that purpose. Every thing being now prepared, Lieutenant Cook sailed from Plymouth on the 36th of Auguit, 1708. H*' touched at • ■». r 200 JAMES COOK. Rio Janeiro, where the Portuguese governor, no less ignorant than suspicious, was much at a loss to comprehend the object of the expedition; nor, after much trouble, was he able to form a juster idea of it, than that it was intended to observe the north star passing through the south pole. It was only by stealth that Mr. Banks could go ashore, though nature seemed here to teem with the objects of his research, and brilliant butterflies flew round the ship to the height of the mast. In leaving this port. Cook, after the example of Byron, sailed over the position which had been assigned by Cowley to Pepys' Island, and finally dispelled all belief in its existence. He then directed his course through the Straits of Le Maire, to pass round Cape Horn. The naturaUsts of the expedition landed on Terra del Fuego, and, crossing a morass and some low woods, ascended the highest eminence they could descry. It was now midsummer in this region, and the temperatup during the day was mod- erately warm, but as night approacned snow fell in great quan- tities, and the cold became excessive. The exploring party, who had incautiously advanced too &r, were unable to effect their return to the shore before sunset, and were obliged to spend the night exposed to all the inclemency of the weather, in a singularly desolate and unsheltered region. Dr. Solander, who, having travelled in the north of Europe, was well ac- quainted with the fatal effects of cold on the constitution, repeatbdly admonished his companions to resist the first ap- proach of drowsiness, as the sleep superinduced by cold is sure to prove fatal ; but he was the first to feel the dangerous torpor he predicted, and entreated his companions to allow him to lie down and take his rest; but they, fortunately in* structed by his lessons, persisted in dragging him along, and thus saved his life. On reaching the woods in their descent, they kindled a fire, round . which they spent the night, and when the sun rose they made their way to the ships ; but two of the party, servants of Mr. Banks, who lay down to rest in the snow, were found dead the next morning. The voyage round Cape Horn into the Pacific occupied thirty-four days ; and Cook, who was rather fortunate in his weather, seems to think it preferable to the passage through the Straits of Magellan. In his voyage through the ocean, he descried some small islands, of the group which had been pre- viously visited by Wallis and Bougainville. He proceeded, however, direct to the place of his destination, not allowing himself to be detained by unimportant discoveries. At length he arrived at King George the Third's Island, to which he found that the natives gave the name of Otaheite, and anchored m ■ JAMES COOK. 901 in Matavaij or Port Royal Bay. From the inhabitants he met with the most friendly reception, and bein^ instructed by the errors of his predecessors, he drew up a set of regulations to guide his people in their intercourse with the natives, which reflect the highest honour on his good sense and humanity. He changed names with the chief of the island ; thus solemnly professing friendship according to the custom of the South Sea islanders. Permission was easily obtained to erect tents on shore for the sick ; a small fort was constructed, and the ob- servatory set up. As the time approached for the observation of the transit, the greatest anxiety existed among the officers respecting the result, ns a temporary cloudiness or unfavoura- ble change of weather might totally frustrate the grand object of the expedition. A party, however, was prudently sent to Eimco,a small island about twenty leagues distant, and another was stationed in Otaheitc, considerably to the west of M atavai Bay, in order to le&sen, by the number of observers, the chances of a total failure. At length the important day, the 3d of June, arrived, and the sun rose without a cloud. The observation was made successfully by all the parties, and the minds of our voyagers were relieved, the chief object of their mission being thus happily fulfilled. The mild and judicious conduct of Cook completely won the confidence of the Otoheitans, and enabled him to form a more accurate opinion of their character than the voyagers who had previously visited their island. They were remarkably friend- ly and affectionate, and indeed their attachmentij alone seem- ed exempted from the characteristic levity which prevented them from fixing their attention on the same object for any length of time. They are a handsome people, finely made, and with open vivacious countenances : their ingenuity was in nothing more conspicuous than in the fine cloth, or rather paper, which they made of the inner bark of a tree. The garments of this material, which they wore, were becoming, and even elegant, and were arranged by the women so as to produce an effect little short of the classic draperies of anti- quity. Their houses were little more than sheds, erected in the neighbourhood of the trees under which they reclined and took their meals during the day. These habitations stood very thick in the groves which cover the low margin of the island. High mountains rose behind, and a number of small streams stole down the declivities to the sea^shore ; the whole present- ing, from a distance, a most enchanting picture. It was conjectured by M. de Bougainville that the inhabit- ants of Otaheite w:ere composed of two different races, and that «ne of these was in a servile condition : Cook also iiotices the 18 =.J1 fi 909 JAMK8 COOK* superioritj of the chiefs in figure and appearance, but does not venture to ascribe this difference to any circumstances of origin or descent. He does not seem to have observed the power which the chiefs usually exercised over their retainers, end which the French navigator, with perhaps too little reason, seems to have considered as absolutely despotic. But the king, it was evident, though treated with respect by nil, pos- sessed no power but what was derived from the voluntary at- tachment of the chiefs, whose obedience or support in every enterprise could be secured only by consulting them. The rule of succession among these islanders is singular in the ex- treme. The son, as soon as lie is born, succeeds to the au- thority of his father, who at once becomes only a regent in- stead of king, if he be fitted for that ofiUce. Associations of n licentious character existed among the chief persons in these islands ; and, among other bad effects, tended to encourage the crime of infanticide ; a crime to which the law of inherit- ance just mentioned may have held out some inducement, as the ambition of the parent was at once blighted by the birth of a son. At the time of Cook's visit, the sovereignty had devolved on a boy only seven years old, the son of Homai and Oberea, the latter of whom had figured so conspicuously in Captain Wallis' narrative as queen of the island. She lived separate from her husband, and though still treated as a noble, no longer enjoyed the same degree of power and consideration which had ren- dered her friendship so valuable to the commander of the Dolphin. As a further proof of the progress made by these islanders towards civilization, it deserves to be remarked, that their women were not condemned to labour, as is usually the case amongst rude nations. They had, indeed, abundance of domestic occupation, in making and dyeing their cloth, pre- paring the meals, and similar offices ; but though they were not permitted to eat with the men, they were in general treated with respect and attention. When M. de Lougainville arrived here, he found the island- ers already acquainted with the use of iron, which they called aouri, a naipe which he supposed them to have learned from the English, who had preceded him ; but Captain Wallis ob- served that they were not wholly ignorant of that metal in his time, though he does not mention by what name they called it; for as soon as they were presented with iron nails, they began to sharpen them, while they took no such pains with pieces of brass and copper. Cook circumnavigated and surveyed the coasts of Otaheite, wh .ch he found to have a circumference of . aboiit thirty leagues ; and after a stay of about three monthi ■#• JAMES COOK. 803 he prepared to depart. In leaving the affectionate islanders^ he remarks, ** that, allowing for their thefl, thej need not fear a comparison with any people on earth." A native named Tupia, one of Oberea's ministers, and well instructed in all the learning of his countrymen, offered to accompany the English, and the proposal was readily accepted. The Ota- heitans, it appeared, sometimes ventured two or three hundred miles through the ocean in their open canoes ; and Tupia had a vague knowledge of above eighty islands, the position of many of which he attempted to describe. He was well ac- quainted with the heavens ; and, in every part of the subse- quent voyage in the Endeavour, be was enabled to point out the direction of his native island. Preparations were now made for departing ; and Captain Cook hoped to quit the island without any misunderstanding with the natives, but in this he was mistaken. Two foreign sailors having been out, one of them was robbed of his knife, and striving to recover it, the Indians attacked and wounded him in a dangerous manner with a stone ; his companion also received a slight wound in the head. As Captain Cook would have been unwilling to have taken farther notice of the trans- action he was not sorry the offenders had made their escape. Another affair equally disagreeable, soon after happened. In the evening two young itiariners retired secretly from the fort, and in the morning were not to be met with. Notice having been given for all the company to go on board the next day, and that the ship would sail that day or the day ensuing, Captain Cook began to fear that the mariners intended to re- main on shore. He was apprized, that no effectual steps could be taken to recover them, without risking the harmony nnd good fellowship which, at present subsisted between the English and the natives, and therefore resolved to wait a day in hopes of their returning. The mariners not having returned the following morning, an inquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared the}? c'*'^ not propose returning, having taken refuge in the mountains where it was impossible to discover them ; and that each had taken a wife. In consequence of which it was inti- mated to several chiefs, who were in the fort with their women, that they would not be suffered to quit it till the deserters were produced. They received the intimation with very little signs either of fear or discontent, assuring the captain that the mari« ners should be sent back; but night coming on, Captain Cook judged it was not prudent to let the hostages remain in the fort ; and he therefore ordered them to be brought on board. This gave an unusual alarm ; nnd several of them, eipeeially iV d04 JAMES COOK. the females, testified their apprehensions with great agitation of mind, and floods of tears when they were coming on board. One of the mariners was brought back in the evening by- some of the Indians, who reported that the other, and the t\(-(> people who were sent to fetch them back, would be detained till Tootahah, one of the confined should be liberated. Mr. Hicks was immediately despatched in the long boat, with sev- eral men to rescue the English prisoners ; at the same time, Captain Cook told Tootahah that it was incumbent on him to assist them with some of his people, and to give orders in his name, that the men should be set at liberty ; for that he should expect him to answer for the event. Tootahah immediately complied, and this party recovered the men without any oppo- sition. When the deserters jvere examined, it was discovered that the account which the Ini^ians had given was no way false. They had become fond of two females, and it was their design to keep themselves concealed till the ship had set sail, and continue upon the island. Tupia, who had been prime minister of Oberea, and was also the principal priest of the island, having often testified a desire to go with them, on Wednesday morning ih*} 12th, came on board with a boy about twelve years of age, his servant, named Tuyota, and finally requested the captain to receive them. As it was thought he would be useful to them in many ways, his request was complied 'with. Tupia then went on shore, for the last time to see his friends, and took with him several baubles to give them as parting tokens of remembrance. On leaving Otaheite, Lieutenant Cook visited the neigh- bouring islands of Ulietea, Borabora, Otahah, Huaheine, and Raiataia. Tupia related, that in the time of his grandfather a friendly ship had called at the last named island, and he also stated that a ship had been wrecked on a low island called Oanna. These ships were, probably, those of admiral Rogge- wein's squadron, and Oanna may have been the Sckadelyk^ or Pernicious Island of that navigator. At Huaheine, Cook contracted a friendship with Oree, the old chief of the island, from whom he experienced unremitting kindness, and to whom, at his departure, he gave, along with some valuable presents, a small bag containing coins and medals, and a pewter plate with an inscription, as a memorial of his visit to this part of the world. These gifts the old chief promised to keep in safe- ty. The people of Borabora hud invaded some of the islands in the neigbourhood, and with such success that they were looked upon as invincible, and were become objects of dread to the simple islanders, Tupia was anxious that the English -:•*. '**- ff JAMBS COOK. 20 j; should terrify those haughty conquerors, and exhibit their su- periority by firing great guns at Borabora ; and at length, to calm his importunity, a ball was fired towards the island when the ship was at least seven leagues distant fi-om shore. To the group of islands, which Lieutenant Cook now quitted, he gave the collective name of the Society Islands. After sailing four days to the west and south-west, an island was discovered to which Tupia gave the name of Oheteroa. The natives crowded on the shore to resist the landing of the strangers : they were a handsome vigorous people, and seem- ed far to excel the natives of the Society Islands in the beauty of their dress. The cloth was dyed in various patterns, and of several colours, though bright yellow seemed to predominate. Their robes being collected round their waist by a belt of red cloth, gave them a gay and warlike appearance. Some had caps made of the feathers of the tropic bird, while others wore small turbans of a very elegant appearance. Their canoes were m'cU constructed ; and, as well as the javeUns, were carved in a manner highly creditable to their taste and ingenuity. But no anchorage could be found near the island ; and as the natives seemed bent on hostility, our navigators gave up all thoughts of cultivating an acquaintance with them, and pur- sued their voyage. On the 15th of August they sailed from Oheteroa, and in the beginning of October perceived, in the colour of the sea, in the weeds with which it was covered, and the birds which flew around them, unequivocal signs of the proximity of land. At length, on the 6th of that month, land was distinctly seen stretching to a great extent in the horizon ; several ranges of hills were distinguished rising one above another, and a chain of mountains of an enormous height terminated the picture in the rear. The general opinion was, that they had discovered the Terra Australis Incognita, but it was soon perceived that this must be a part of New Zealand or Staaten Land, discov- ered by Abel Tasman in 1642. A party who went on shore in order to open ah intercourse with the natives met with no success. They were fierce, and obstinately hostile ; but it was discovered, to the surprise and pleasure of our navigators, that when Tupia spoke to them in his native language, he was perfectly understood. In a quar- rel which ensued, one of them was killed, and his dress ap- peared, on examination, to correspond exactly with the draw- ing appended to Tasman*s voyage. As it was found impossi- ble to commence an amicable correspondence with them by gentle means, it was determined to resort to force, and, accord- ing to the method followed by the first Spanish navigators, to 18* 306 JAMES COOK. capture the Indians first, in order to have an opportanitj of treating them with kindness. This plan of proceeding can hardlj be justified upon principles of reason or morality, and it has never been attended with such unequivocal success as to palliate its demerits. Two canoes were seen entering the bay, and the ship's boats proceeded immediately to intercept them : in one, the natives escaped by paddling ; but t.Nose ia the other, which was a sailing canoe, finding it impossible to get ofi*, boldly prepared for battle. Of seven Indians who were in the canoe, four were killed on the first discharge of musketry, and the other three, who were all young, immediate- ly jumped overboard, and attempted to save themselves by swimming : they were, however, overtaken and picked up by the boat, though not without some difficulty. They expected to be put to death at once ; but as the studious kindness with which they were treated soon convinced them of their error, their consternation gave way to transports of joy. They con- versed freely with Tupia ; and after having been kept a day on board the ship, were again sent ashore. The account which the boys gave to their countrymen of their treatment on board the ship led to a correspondence, which, did not, however, bear the appearance of confirmed friendship. The New Zealnnders still maintained a fierce and independent carriage, and acted so little in concert, that the behaviour of different individuals was often of a totally opposite character: but their distrust could not be generally overcome, nor an intercourse estabUshed which was likely to prove safe and advantageous. An attempt was made by them to carry off Tayeto, Tupia's boy, and they nearly succeeded; but guns being fired at the canoe as it paddled off, the natives, in a moment of fear, let go their hold, and the boy leaped into the water. The New Zealanders made great exertions to se- cure their prize, but the ships* boats finally succeeded in pick- ing up the youth, whose terror at the violent conduct of these savages was increased by the conviction which our navigators had obtained, that they were cannibals, and even that they re- garded human flesh as a dainty. This bay, in which no provisions could be procured, was named Poverty Bay ; and our voyagers, on leaving it, pro- ceeded along the coast towards the north. They gave the name of Mercury Bay to the inlet in which they anchored while observing a transit of that planet over the sun. - They were surprised to find that the natives, notwithstanding their ferocity, were not unacquainted with the art of cultivating the ground. They had gardens, in which they reared gourds 9^d several kinds of firuits. A decked canoe also was found JAAIE8 COOK. 307 on this shore, which indicated their proficiency in maritime affairs. Their heppahs or hamlets were forta neatly construct- ed on elevated situations, defended by lines and trenches, end accessible only by a steep and narrow entrance. They had no knowledge of iron when our voyagers first touched here, although iron sand was found in the beds of several streams. The women were thickly painted with oil and red ochre, and the men were tattooed after the usual fashion of the South Seas. They were strong and active, not deficient in intelli- gence, or in sentiments of generosity, notwithstanding the cruelty of disposition engendered by their habits of continual warfare. Tupia conversed much with their priests ; and from the superiority of his knowledge and the variety of his super- stitious lore, he was regarded by them with peculiar respect and veneration. In prosecuting his examination of the coast towards the north. Cook entered a deep inlet terminating in a large river, which he explored to the distance of fourteen miles : from the magnitude of this river, and the general appearance of the country round it, he named it the Thames. The timber which grew here was of enormous size, trees being seen nearly twenty feet in girth six feet from the ground, and above eighty feet in height to the branches. Having finished the examination of the north-western shore of New Zealand, Cook experienced such severe gales, though it was now midsummer in these latitudes, that in five weeks be did not advance above fifty leagues in his course along the western shore. He at length reached a secure and capacious harbour, which he named Queen Charlotte's Sound. The country was here taken possession of, and the sound carefully surveyed. Wood, water, and fish, were in the greatest abun- dance, the natives friendly, and plants of an antiscorbutic quaUty were gathered on the shore, which soon restored the crew to perfect health. Here our voyagers were particularly struck with the exquisite warbling of the birds, which, like our nightingales, sing only during the night. On ascending a height in the neighbourhood of the sound. Cook was surprised on descrying the sea to the south-east, and thus found that the land, the continuity of which he had not before suspected, was divided by a strait. Passing through this strait, to which geographers have unanimously given the name of its discoverer, he directed his course towards the north till he arrived near the point where his examination of this country had commenced. He then resumed his course to the south-east, and followed the coast of the southernmost of the two islands comprised under the name of New Zealand, 206 JAMES COOK. turning again from the south to Queen Charlotte's Sound. The southern island, or as the natives call it, Tavai Poenam- moOf is a rugged country, with mountains of prodigious height, and covered with snow the greater part of the year. The in- habitants also, though not more fierce, are ruder than their northern neighbours. They differ likewise in dialect from the inhabitants of Eaheinomauwe^ as the northern island is called, where, as the chmate is more genial and the soil more luxuri- ant, the population is considerably greater, and the arts as well as the institutions of rude society much more advanced. Of the natives of New Zealand, Cook entertained a highly favourable opinion, notwithstanding their cannibalism, of which he saw numerous incontestible proofs. He cquld not collect from them any tradition respecting the arrival of Tas- man on their shores ; but they heard of a country called Uli- maroa^ situated N. W. by W., where the people eat hogs, and whence some canoes seemed to have accidentally arrived in their country. The circumnavigation of New Zealand was the first grand discovery of Cook. When Tasman touched on that country, he imagined it to be a part of the great Terra Australis, or continent supposed to extend to the south pole. Our navigator was satisfied with having disproved this suppo- sition ; and as the lateness of the season would not permit him to continue his researches in higher latitudes, he determined to direct his course to the eastern coast of New Holland, re- specting which the learned world was still in total ignorance. He took leave of New Zealand on the 31st of March, 1770, and in twenty days discovered the coast of New Holland at no great distance from the point where the survey of Tasman had terminated. In proceeding to the north, an inlet was entered, in which the ship rode securely for some days. Inhabitants were seen, but, from their shyness and timidity, they could not be induced to approach the strangers : they seemed to be sunk in that brutal condition which is insensible even to the promptings of curiosity. From the variety of new plants col- lected here by the naturalists of the expedition, this inlet re- ceived the name of Botany Bay, No rivers were discovered by Cook in his voyage along this coast, which has since been found abundantly supplied with fine streams. The natives, wherever they were seen, manifested the same repugnance to the strangers, and the same indifference to the trinkets pre- sented to them. Towards the north, the country grew more hilly, and the navigation of the coast became more dangerous and intricate. No accident had yet occurred in a voyage of two thousand ■uleB along a ooast hitherto unexplored ; but in latitude 16^ S. ■'■■H #" .-Q.i' JAMES COOK. 209 a high headland being in sight, which from the circumstance was afterwards named Cape Tribulation, the ship during the night struck on some coral rocks with sc much force that there seemed imminent danger of her going to pieces. The planks which fonned her sheathing were seen floating off, and the water rushed in with such impetuosity, that, though all the pumps were manned, the leak could hardly be kept under. As day broke, land was descried eight leagues distant, without an island between, to which the boats might convey the crew in case of the ship's foundering. The guns and all the stores that could be spared were thrown overboard, and preparations were made to heave the ship off the rocks, although it was thought probable that she would sink soon after. On the fol- lowing night, however, she was got afloat, and, to the surprise of all, it was found that the leakage did not increase. By con- stant exertion and cool perseverance, the ship was navigated to a small harbour opportunely discovered on the coast, and the only harbour, indeed, seen by our people during the whole voyage, which could have afforded them the same relief. On examining the injury done to the vessel, it was found that a large piece of the coral rock, having forced its way through the timbers, had remained fixed in the aperture ; and but for this providential circumstance the ship must have sunk the moment she was got off the reef. The cove in which our navigators found shelter is situated at the mouth of a small stream, to which was given the name of the Endeavour River. Here the natives appeared rather more familiar ; but they set little value on any thing offered to> them, except food. When some turtle, which they coveted,, was refused them, they avenged the affront by setting fire to the long grass near the tents ; an action which had nearly been attended with disagreeable consequences. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found here abundance of employment; al- most every thin~ connected with the animal and vegetable kingdoms being absolutely new. Our naturalists were partic- ularly pleased with the animal called by the natives kangaroo ; they saw several at a distance, but a long time elapsed before they could succeed in shooting one. When the natives had become familiar with the ship's crew» one of them was desired to throw his lance, which he did with such dexterity and force, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the highest, it penetrated deeply into a tree at the distance of fifty yards. On the 19th they saw several of the women, who as well as the men were quite naked. They were one day visited by ten of the natives, who seemed resolved to have one of the turtle that was on board, which being refused* m- 210 JANES COOK. they expressed the utmost rage and resentment. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and drew them to the side of the ship where the canoe lay ; but the sailors took them away. They made several similar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful they leaped into their canoe and rowed off. At this instant the captain with Mr. Banks and five or six seamen, went ashore, where they arrived before the Indians. As soon as the Indians landed, one of them snatched a fire-brand from under a pitch-kettle, and running to the windward of what effects were on shore, set fire to the dry grass, which rapidly spread and endangered one of the tents. Appearing deter- mined on further mischief, a musket loaded with small shot, was now fired, and one of them being wounded they ran off. The natives continuing still in sight a musket charged with balls was fired near them, upon hearing which they soon got out of sight ; but their voices being soon heard in the woods, the captain, with a few of the men, went to meet them. When they were in sight of each other, both, parties stopped, except an old Indian, who advanced before the rest a little way, and speaking a few words, retreated to his brethren. The English having seized some of their darts, followed them about a mile, and then sat down ; the Indians sitting about a hundred yards from them. The old man again came forward, having in his hand a lance with a point. He stopped and spoke several times; on which the captain made signs of friendship. The old Indian now turned to his companions, and having spoken to them, they placed their lances against a tree, and came forward as in friendship; whereupon their darts which had been taken were returned, and the whole quarrel seemed to be at an end. When Captain Cook got on board, he saw the woods burning at the distance of two miles from the fire thus kindled by the native. By the night of the 20th, the fire had extended many miles round them on the hills. The next day one of the seamen who had strayed from his company, met with four Indians at dinner : he was alarmed at this unexpect- ed meeting, but had prudence enough to conceal his appre- hensions, and .sitting down gave them his knife, which having all looked at, they returned. He would have left them, but they chose to detain him, till, by feeling his hands and face, they were convinced he was made of flesh and blood hke themselves. They then dismisse^i him, and directed him the nearest way to the ship. The ship being repaired, our voyagers lefl the harbour, and, after much patient labour and anxiety, at length gained the deep sea, having been three montb» entangled within the reefs. They now prosecuted their voyage to the north, flattering > :t::.v^^ JAMES COOK. 311 themielves that the danger was gone by, when the wind abated, and the ship was found to be drifting fa«'* towards the reefs which hned this coast nearly in its whole extent, and on which the great waves of the Southern Ocean break with a tremend- ous surf. Her destruction seemed inevitable, when a narrow channel through the reefs was descried at no great distance; and although the attempt was attended with great risk, yet the ship was steered to run through it. Having thus entered from necessity a second time within the reef, Cook resolved to perse- vere through all difficulties in following the coast, lest he might lose the strait that separates New Holland from New Guinea; " if," as he doubtfully expresses it, ** such a strait there be." He at length reached a point of land from which he could dis- cern an open sea to the south-west, and was thus convinced that he had found the strait in question. He then landed, and 'v\ the name of his sovereign took possession of the immense hne of coast that he had discovered, and to which he gave the name of New South Wales. The little island on which the ceremony was performed received the name of Possession Island. The crew of the Endeovour had suffered so much from sickness and fatigue, that it was not deemed advisable to pro- long the voyage by an exanj nation of the coasts of New Guinea. Our navigator, therefore, held his course for Bata- via, where he wished to refit his vessel. On the 10th of October the captain went on shore and visit- ed the only English gentleman then resident at Batavia. This gentleman whose name was Leith, received his countryman in the politest manner and entertained him with hospitolity. On the evening of the same day, there happened a most terrible storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied with very heavy rain, by which a Dutch East Indiaman was great- ly damaged both in her masts and rigging. The Endeavour, though near this Dutch ship, escaped without damage, owing in Captain Cook's opinion, to an electrical chain, which con- ducted the lightning over the side of the vessel. A sentinel on board the Endeavour, who was charging his musket at the time of the storm, had it shaken out of his hand, and the ram- rod was broken to pieces : the electrical chain looked like a streak of fire, and the ship sustained a very violent shock. Next day Captain Cook waited on the council, who inform- ed him that all his requests should be complied with. In the interim, a contract was made with the master of a hotel to furnish them with as much tea, coffee, punch and tobacco, as they might have occasion for. X^ tn VT ^; 212 JAMES COOK. Tiipia in the mean time had been on board dangerously ill, yet persisted to refuse every medicine that was offered him. He was now removed to the town, and soon his whole frame oppearnd as if reanimated. The houses, carriages, people, ancl many other objects were totally new to him and filled him with astonishment. ^Captain Cook now applied to several persons to advance him money sufficient to defray the expense of repairing the ship, but not one could be found who had the requisite sum in his possession, or, if he had, was willing to advance it; he therefore made application to the governor, who issued his orders that he should be supplied out of the treasury of the Dutch East India Company. After little more than a week spent at Batavia,the ill effects of the climate began to be severely felt. By the twenty -fiflh of the month very few of the crew were well enough to do duty. By the fifth of November, death was advancing with rapid strides. Several Malay servants were engaged to wait on those who were ill, but these people were so remiss in their duty, that it was no uncommon thing for the sick man to leave his bed in search of his attendant. By the twentieth, not above ten men out of the whole ship's crew, were able to do duty, and these were employed in gcttmg the water and stores aboard, and in putting up the rigging. The ship at length being repaired, and the sick taken on board, they set sail on the morning of the 25th. On the 10th of June, land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by the same boy who had first seen New Zeal- and ; and on the 12th, Cook came to an anchor in the Downs, having been employed two years and eleven months in his voyage round the earth. The first important discovery made by Cook was effected by the circumnavigation of New Zealand. When Tasman described that country, he supposed it to be a part of the great Terra Australis Incognita, extending probably across the southern Pacific Ocean ; but Cook's voyage at once overturn- ed this theory. An opinion, however, which has long existed, cannot be at once dispelled, although utterly groundless, and many still continued to believe in the existence of a southern continent, although Cook's discoveries had cut off the connec- tion between their theory and the facts which hitherto had been adduced in its support : but to set the question of a south- em continent completely at rest, another expedition was ne- eessary, and the English government, having now made the advancement of science the object of national exertions, n* i' **.' JAMUB COOK. 31$ solved to continue their laudable researches. The king wm partial to the scheme; and the earl of Sandwich, who was «t the head of the admiralty, possessed a mind sufficiently liberal and comprehensive to second effectively the wishes of hif sovereign. Captain Cook was named at once as the fittest person to command the new expedition. Two ships, the Resolutioii and the Adventure, the former of four hundred and sixty-two, the latter of three hundred and thirty-six tons burden, were fitted out for the voyage ; and, that no opportunities might be lost to science from the want of persons capable of observing nature under every aspect,' astronomers and naturalists of eminent ability were engaged to accompany the expedition; Messrs. Wales aid Bayley proceeding in the former. Rein- hold Forster and his son in the latter capacity. The ships were amply stored and provided for a long and difficult voyage, particularly with antiscorbutics, and whatever was thou«'ht likely to preserve the health of the crews. Cook sailed from Plymouth on the 13th of July, 1772, on his second ^oyage of discovery. On his arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, he was induced, by the entreaties of Mr. Forster, to allow the celebrated naturalist Sparmann to join the expe- dition. He now directed his course to the south, in search of the land said to have been discovered by the French navigator Bouvet, but violent gales drove him far to the east o^ the me- ridian in which it was supposed to lie. After long struggling with adverse winds, he at length reached the same meridian, some leagues to the south of the latitude assigned to Cape Circumcision. Having thus proved that .he land said to have been seen by Bouvet, if it existed at all, was certainly no part of a southern continent, he continued his course to the south and east. On the 10th of December our navigators first met with islands of ice, and on the following days these occurred in greater number's and of larger size : some of them were nearly two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high ; yet such was the force of the waves, that the sea broke quite over them. This was at first view a gratifying spectr^cle, but the sentiment of pleasure was soon swallowed up in She horror which seized on the mind from the contemplation of danger; for a ship ap- proaching these islands on the weather side would be dashed to pieces in a moment. Amidst the obstructions to which our navigators were exposed from the ice islands continually 8U»* ceeding one another, they derived the advantage of having tut abundant supply of fresh water ; large masses of ice wece 19 314 JAME8 COOK. carried off, and stowed on deck, and the water produced from its melting was found perfectly sweet and well tasted. On the 17th of January, 1773, our navigators had reached the latitude of 67° 15' S., and they saw the ice extending from east to west-south-west, without the least appearance of an opening. It was vain, therefore, to persist any longer in a southerly course ; and as there was some danger of being sur- rounded by the ice, prudence dictated a retreat to the north. On the 8k,h of February, the weather beng extremely thick and hazy, it was found that the Adventure had parted company : the rendezvous appointed in case of this accident was Queen Gharlotte'j Sound, in New Zealand ; and thither Cook direct- ed his course. In the latitude of 62° S., on the 17th of the same month, between midnight and three o'clock in the morn- ing, lights were seen in the heavens, similar to those that are known in the northern hemisphere by the name of the Aurora Borealis. Captain Cook had never heard that the Aurora Australis had been seen before, but the same phenomenon was witnessed repeatedly in the sequel of this voyage. During his run to the eastward in this high latitude, he had ample reason to conclude that no land lay to the south, unless at a very great distance. At length, after having been one hun- dred and seventeen days at sea, during which time he had sailed three thousand six hundred and sixty leagues without having come once within sight of land, be saw the shores of New Zealand on the 25th of March, and on the following day came to an anchor in Dusky Bay. Notwithstanding the length and hardships of his voyage, there was no sickness in the ship; the attention which he paid to the health of the men, by enforcing cleanUncss, by keeping the vessel dry and well ventilated, and by the judicious use of antiscorbutic diet, being attended with complete success. Having surveyed Dusky Bay, he proceeded to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where Cap- tain Fumeaux had arrived before him. The Adventure, after parting company with the Resolution, had followed a more northerly course, and traced the coasts of Van Dieman's Land along the southern and eastern shores. Captain Furneaux reported, **that in his opinion there :e no straits between this land and New Holland, but a very deep bay." Cook had intended to investigate this point, but, con- sidering it to be now settled by the judgment of hi^ colleague, he resolved to prosecute his researches to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46°. But before he left Queen Charlotte's Sound he succeeded in estabhshing a friendly ard mutually advantageous intercourse with the natives. He endeavoured JAMES COOK. 215 to give them substantial proofs of his kind intentions, by making an addition to tlieir stock of useful animals. He put on shore a ewe and ram, and also two goats, a male and female. A garden also was dug, and a variety of seeds of culinary veget- ables, adapted to the climate, were sown in it. Although it was the winter season. Cook determined not to lose his time in utter inactivity. His ships being sound, and his crews healthy, he thought that he might safely proceed to examine the Southern Ocean within the latitude of 46^ ; and then, refreshing at some of the islands between the tropics, re- turn in the summer season to carry his researches to a higher latitude. His voyage from New Zealand towards the east was not productive of any interesting discoveries, nor diversified by any but the ordinary details of navigation. He felt convinced, from the great sea that rolled from the south, that no land of any extent could lie near him in that direction. When he had advanced so far as to find himself to the north of Carteret's track, he could no longer entertain any hope of finding a con- tinent ; and this circumstance, with the sickly state of the Ad- venture's crew, induced him to direct his course to the Society Islands. During this part of his voyage, he saw a number of those small low islands which compose the Dangerous Archi- pelago of Bougainville. The ships narrowly escaped destruction by drifting on the coral reefs at Otaheite : they were saved only by the prompt- ness of their commander and the unremitting exertions of the crew. On the 24th of August they anchored in their old sta- tion in Matavai Bay. The men on board the Resolution were at this time in perfect health ; but the crew of the Adventure, on the other hand, suffered dreadfully from the scurvy, though the two ships were equipped alike, and the same precautiona- ry system to fireserve the health of the men was prescribed to both ; but zeal on the part of the officers was requisite to give efficacy to the orders, and their example was necessary to en- courage the men to sacrifice old habits in order to preserve their constitutions. During this visit to Otaheite, our navigators obtained a more intimate acquaintance with the manners and character of the natives. Of their religious doctrines they were unable to ac- quire a distinct knowledge ; but they ascertained that human victims were oflen sacrificed to their gods. They also wit- nessed the Heavas or dramatic representations of the people, and found them not devoid of archness and ingenuity. The performance was generally extemporaneous, founded upon some incidents presented at the moment, and in which our navigators usually made a prominent figure. Otoo, the pres- 316 JAMB8 COOK. ent king of Otaheite, a man of fine figure but of remarkaUy timid disposition, contracted an intimate friendship with Cap* tain Oook. Oberea, who, when the island was first visited bj Captain Wallis, was so conspicuous a character, was now re> duced to an humble station, and had declined as much in per- sonal appearance as in rank. It is remarkable that few inqui- ries were made after Tupia, who had accompanied Cook in his former voyage, or after Aootooroo, the native of Otaheite who had accompanied Bougainville to Europe; but, though the islanders were neglectful of their own countrymen, they were uniformly solicitous in inquiring after Mr. Banks. On leaving Otaheite, Cook visited the other islands of the group, where he found provisions in greater abundance. Oree, the chief of Huaheine, evinced towards him the most affec- tionate regard. Omai, a native of UUetea, being desirous to accompany the English, was admitted by Captain Fumeaux on board the Adventure : Captain Cook wondered that Cap- tain Fumeaux would encumber himself with this man, who ia his opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhalutants of these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth or acquired rank, nor leing eminent in shape, figure or complexion. After his arrival in England, however. Cook changed his opinion, and doubted whether any other of the natives would have given more general satisfaction, by his behaviour among them. **Omai," he observes, " has certainly a very good understand- ing, quick parts and honest principles. He is of good natural behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best compa- ny, and a proper degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons of inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind with other young men, but has judgment enough not to indulge them in any improper degree. I do not ima- gine that he has any dislike to liquor, and if he had fallen into company where the person who drank the most met with the most approbation, I have no doubt but he would have endeav- oured to gain the applause of those with whom he associated, but fortunately for him, he perceived that drinking was very little in use but among the inferior people, and as he was verr watchftil into the manners and conduct of the persons of rank who honoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest, and I never heard that during the whole time of his stay in England, which was two years, he ever once was dis- guised with wine, or ever showed an inclination to go beyond the strictest rules of moderation. " During his stay in England, he was caressed by the princi- pal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the esteem of any one of them; but his principal patrons were the Earl of Sandwicht JAMES COOK. 217 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. It is to be observed that though Omai lived in the midst of amusements during his residence in England, his return to his native country was always in bis thoughts, and though he was not impatient to go he expressed a satisfaction as the time of his return approached. He em- barked with me in the Resolution, when she fitted out for another voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and full of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among us." A young native of Borabora, named Hete-Hete or Oedidee (as our great navigator named him,) was at the same time allowed by Captain Cook to em- bark in the Resolution. On quitting the Society Islands, Cook directed his course to the west, where he had reason to believe, from the accounts of the natives, that much yet remained to be explored. At the island named Middleburg by Roggewein, he was well treated by a chief called Tioony : at Amsterdam Island his reception vraa equally favourable. The language of these islanders dif- fered but little from that of Otaheite, and they were evidently of the same race. Some of our navigators thought them much handsomer ; but others, and. among these Cook himself, were of a different opinion. The men were grave and stately; but the women, on the contrary, were remarkably vivacious, and prattled unceasingly to the strangers, regardless of the morti- fying fact that the latter could not understand them. But these people were chiefly distinguished from the natives of the Soci- ety Islands by their superior industry. On the Island of Am- sterdam Captain Cook was struck with admiration ; when he surveyed the cultivation and the beauty of the scene, he thought himself transported into the most fertile plains of Europe : there was not an inch of waste ground. The roads or paths occupied no more space than was absolutely necessa- ry, and the fences did not take up above four inches each; nor was this small portion of ground wholly lost, for the fences themselves contained in general useful trees or plants. The scene was every where the same ; and nature, assisted by a little art, no where assumed a more splendid appearance than in these islands. Cook now directed his course again to New Zealand ; but, on approaching that country, the ships had to encounter a suc- cession of severe gales and continued bad weather, during which the Adventure was again lost sight of and never after- wards rejoined. On the 3d of November the Resolution an- chored in Queen Charlotte*s Sound. The winter had been ipent not unprofitably in revictualling the ships, restoring the h«alth of the crews, and obtaining a more accurate knowledge 19* 318 iAMEl COOK. of the islands between tbe tropics. And now, as sanamer ap* proached, it was Cook's intention to run from New Zealand, where wood and water were to be procured in abundance, and to explore the high southern latitudes from west to east, in which course he might reckon upon having the winds and currents in his favour. While the Rescdution lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, indubitable proofs jNresented themselves that cannibalism was common anu>ngthe natives: one of them who carried some human flesh in his canoe, was allowed to broil and eat it on board the Resolution, in order to satisfy the doubts of some of the officers. Oedidee, who witnessed all this, was shocked beyond measure at the spectacle : at first he stood motionless as a statue, but his horror at length gave way to rage, which vented itself not only on the New Zealand- er, but on the officers who had encouraged him ; and he could not be induced even to touch the knife which had been employ* ed to cut the human flesh. On the 26th of November, Cook sailed to prosecute his ex- amination of the antarctic seas. His crew were in good health and high spirits, not at all dejected by the arduous task which was before them. In a few days they crossed the antipodes of London, and were thus on the point of the globe which was most distant from their home. The first ice island was seen on the 12th of December ; and, on the 30th of that month, our navigators had reached the seventy-first degree of south- ern latitude : but here the ice was so compact that it was im- possible to proceed any farther towards the south ; and it was also obvious that no continent existed in that direction but what must be inaccessible from the ice. It was Cook's inten- tion to winter again within the tropic; but, in proceeding thither, he wished to satisfy himself a? to the southern land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez. He sailed sufficiently near the position assigned to that supposed conti- nent to assure himself that it could not have been any thing more than an island of moderate size. He now directed his course in search of Davis' Land or Easter Island, which had been sought in vain by Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville: Cook, however, succeeded better, and made the island on the 11th of March, 1774. The natives were found to speak a lan- guage radically the same with that of Otaheite, and which thus reaches across the Pacific Ocean from New Zealand to the sequestered islands in the East. Easter Island was found to be remarkably barren, ill supplied with water, and wholly without wood. But the attention of the English was forcibly attracted by the great statues seen on the island by Roggewein. About fifteen yards from the landing place was found a per> tmtm JAME8 COOK. 2il9 pendicular wall of square hewn stones, about eight feet ioe height, and nearlj sixty in length ; another wall parallel t» the. first, and about forty feet distant from it, was raised to the same height ; the whole area between the walls was filled up and paved with square stones of blackish lava. The stones of the walls were so carefully fitted as to make a durable piece of architecture. In the midst of the area was a p'dlar consist- ing of a single stone, about twenty feet high and about five feet wide, representing the human figure down to the waist. The workmanship was rude but not bad ; nor were the features of the face ill formed, but the ears were long beyond proportion.. On the top of the head was placed upright a huge round cylinder of stone, above five feet in height and in diameter^ this cap, which resembled the head-dress of an Egyptian divinity, was formed of a kind of stone different from that which composed the rest of the pillar, and had a hole on each side, as if it had been made round by turning. It appeared as difficult to explain how the natives of this island, who were but few in number, could carve such huge statues with no better tools than those made of bones or shells, or how they raised them on their pedestals when finished, as to divine for what purpose they undertook such gigantic labours ; for it did not appear that the statues were objects of worship; yet on the eastern side of the island they were numerous enough to employ the male population of the island for many centuries in their construction. The skill of this people in carving was still more manifest in the ornaments of their canoes, and in^ small wooden figures, of which the English brought home many curious specimens. From Easter Island Cook directed his course to the Mar- quesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595 ; and on the 6th of April he got sight of one island of the group which was, how- ever, a new discovery, and received, from the gentleman who first descried it, the name oi Hood's Island. The other isfands seen by Mendana, St. Pedro, Dominica, and St. Christiana, were afterwards discovered in succession. The ship with much difiiculty anchored in Menduna^s Port, in the last men- tioned island. Magdalena, the fifth island of the group, was seen only at a distance. Of the inhabitants of these islands Captain Cook tells us, that collectively they are without ex- ception the finest race of people in this sea ; for fine shape and regular features they perhaps surpass all other nations. Nev- ertheless the affinity of their language to that spoken in Ota> heite and the Society Islands shows that they are originally of the same nation. Oedidee could converse with them tolerably well, though the English could not, and it was obviou* that 230 JAMES COOK. their languages were nearly the same. In their manners and arts the people resembled the natives of Otaheite, but appeared to be rather less ingenious and refined. Forts, or strong holds, were seen on the summits of the highest hills ; but they were not visited by the English, who had not become suffi- ciently acquainted with the natives to venture into the interior. Cook, having rediscovered the Marquesas of Mendana, pro- ceeded to Otaheite, and passing by a group, to which he gave the name of Palliser's Islands, and some others which had been seen by Byron, he anchored in Matavai Bay on the 22d of April. At this time there were no sick on board ; but as the island seemed to abound with provisions, our navigator was willing to prolong his stay here. His original stock in trade was, indeed, now exhausted; but he found that the peo- ple of Otaheite set a great value on the red parrot feathers, of which he had brought a considerable supply from Amsterdam and Middleburg Islands. He thus accidentally learned an advantageous and easy course of traffic in the South Sea. Among other entertainments with which our navigators were treated during this visit to Otaheite was a grand naval review. The vessels of war consisted of one hundred and sixty great canoes, from fifty to ninety feet in length; they were decorated with flags and streamers ; and the chiefs, to- gether with all those who were on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits. The whole fleet made a noble appearance, such as our voyagers had never before seen, and could not have expected in this part of the world. Besides the vessels of war, there were one hundred and seventy sail of smaller double canoes, which seemed to be designed for trans- ports and victuallers. Upon each of them was a small house or shed ; and they were rigged with a mast and sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook estima- ted, at a moderate computation, that there could not be less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty men in the fleet; but the immense number of natives assembled as spectators astonished tne English more than the splendour of the arma- ment, and they were still farther surprised to learn that this fleet was the naval force of only one of the twenty districts into which the island is divided. . On these equivocal grounds they were led to form an extremely exaggerated calculation of the population of Otaheite, which they estimated to be at least two hundl'ed thousand souls ; a number exceeding the truth, perhaps, in the proportion of ten to one. From Otaheite our navigators proceeded to visit the Society Islands, at Huaheine. Cook was aflectionately received by the old chief Oree, who still carefully preserved the medalsi 1AME8 COOK. 321 coina* and pewter plate with an inscription commemorating the yojage, which our commander had given him on a former visit.' Odidee, who for seven months had been the faithful companion of our voyagers, and had made with them the tour of the Pacific, was put on shore at UUetea. He left the 'Eng- lish with regret demonstrative of a strong attachment to them ; and nothing could have torn him from them but the fear of never returning to his native country. He was a fine young man, of a docile and humane disposition, and of the better class of natives, being nearly related to Opoony,the formidable chief of Borabora. But from his inexperience and imperfect acquaintance with the traditionary knowledge of his country- men, but Uttle could be learned from him respecting tlieir history. Cook again directed his course to the west, and repeated his visit to the Friendly Islands." This name he gave to a group extending through about three degrees of latitude and two degrees of longitude, and comprising Anamooka, which Tas- man, who first discovered it, named Rotterdam, Tonga-taboo or Amsterdam, Eaoowee or Middleburg, and Pylstart Islandsi. But this appellation, to which these islands were entitled by the firm alliance and friendship which seemed to exist amon^ their inhabitants, and their courteous behaviour to strangers, might perhaps be extended much farther, so as to include the Boscawen and Keppel Isles, discovered by Captain Wallis, and inhabited by people of the same friendly manners. Pursuing their course to the west, our navigators discover- ed, on the 16th of July, land, which was justly conjectured to be the Terra Austrialis del Espirito Santo of Quiros. After exploring the coast for a few days, Cook came to an anchor in a harbour in the island of Mallicolo. The inhabitants of this island were the most ugly and deformed race which our navi- gators had yet seen, and differed in every respect from the other inhabitants of the Southern Ocean : they were dark coloured, of small stature, with long heads, fiat faces, and countenances resembling that of a monkey. Their language, also, was found not to have any discoverable afiinity with that prevailing through the islands with which the English had any acquaintance. This people differed, likewise, from the great Polynesian race not more by their language and figure than by their scrupulous honesty. As our navigators proceeded towards the south from Mallicolo, they passed by a group which Cook named 8hepkerd*a Isles. Farther to the south was discovered a large island agreeably diversified with woods and lawns over the whole surface, and exhibiting a most beautiful and delightful prospect. This our navigator named I anei MME8 COOK. Sandwich I$land, in compliment to his friend and patron, the Earl of Sandmcji. Still farther to the south was seen another large island, called by the natives Erromango, which he coast- ed for three days, and then came to an anchor in the intention of pi;ocuring a supply of wood and water. This, however, could not be effected without a violent conflict with the na- tives, who were both fierce and treacherous. It was observed that they differed from the inhabitants of Mallicolo both in language and physical conformation ; they were well shaped and had tolerable features, but dark coloured, and with hair crisp and somewhat woolly. From this place Cook sailed for an island which had been descried some time before at a dis- tance. He found that it was called Tanna by the inhabitants, from whom also he learned the names of three other islands in its neighbourhood — Immer, Erronan, and Anaton. Two lan- guages were» found to be spoken in Tanna ; one of them, which was said to have been introduced from Erronan, was nearly the same with that of the Friendly Islands. The other, which our navigators considered peculiar to Tanna, Erroman- go, and Anaton, was different from any they had hitherto met with in the course of their researches. The people at Tanna Were well proportioned, but not robust. They had good fea- tures and agreeable countenances. Though active, and fond of martial exercise, they seemed incapable of patient labour. It appeared that they practised circumcision, and that they were eaters of human flesh ; though, as their island abounded with hogs and fowls, and a variety of fruits, they could not be driven by necessity to adopt this horrid practice. Captain Cook devoted above a month to the survey of this archipelago, with which previous navigators had made but a superficial acquaintance. The northern islands were discov- ered, in 1606, by Quiros, who supposed them to be portions of the great southern continent. Bougainville, in 1768, dis- 'pelled this idea, though he did not proceed to examine the islands near which he sailed; but Captain Cook, besides as- certaining the extent and situation of the islands already known, explored the whole group; and, conceiving that in consequence he had a right to name them, bestowed on them the appellation of the New Hebrides. The season was now approaching, when it would be neces- sary to resume his researches in a high southern latitude, and he hastened therefore to New Zealand, where he intended to refresh his people and prepare for a navigation of considerable length. He sailed from the New Hebrides on the 1st of Sep- tember, and on the 4th discovered land, near which the Reso- lution came to anchor the next day. The inhabitants were a m JAMBS nOOK. 333 strong, active, and handsome race, bearing some resemblance to the people of Tanna, and those of the Friendly Isles. The same mixed character was observed in their language : they had never seen Europeans before, but were friendly and oblig- ing in their behaviour; and, what is still more remarkable in the South Seas, strictly honest in all their dealings. To this island Captain Cook gave the name of New Caledonia : and though compelled by necessity to leave it before it was fully surveyed, he had nevertheless examined it sufficiently to prove, that, excepting New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean. As the Resolution pursued her course from New Caledonia, land was discovered, which, on a nearer approach, was found to be an island of good height, and about five leagues in circuit. It was uninhabited, and proba- bly our English navigators were the first persons who had ever set foot on it. In its vegetable productions it bore a close re- semblance to New Zealand : the flax plant of that country was here particularly luxuriant; but the chief produce of the island was a majestic species of |!>ine, of such a size that, breast high, two men could scarcely clasp the trunk. This little spot was named Norfolk Island. Its fine woods and fertile soil allured, some years later, a party of British settlers ; who finally abandoned it, however, from the inaccessible nature of its coast. On the ISth of October the Resolution came to anchor in Queen Charlotte's Sound. This was the third time of touching at New Zealand during this voyage. On searching for the bottle which Cook had left behind on his last visit, containing the particulars of his arrival, it was found to have been taken away; and from other circumstances it was evident that the Adventure had visited the harbour after the Resolution had left it. While the Resolution remained heft, the intercourse main- tained with the natives was of the most friendly description; Captain Cook continued his efforts to stock the island with useful animals, and for that purpose ordered a boar and sow to be put on shore. On the 10th of November he lefl New Zealand, to pursue his voyage to the east. Towards the close of that month, he had reached the latitude of 55° 40' S., when, deeming it use- less to search any longer for a continent in that directioir, he bore away for Cape Horn ; and on the 17th of December, had sight of Tierra del Fuego. This is the first instance of a run quite across the Southern Pacific. It now only remained for our navigator to cross the Southern Atlantic to the point whence he had commenced his explorations. Having con»- pleted his examination of Tierra del Fuego and Staaten Land* "?>■; jj"?- S34 JAmS COOK. he proceeded towardi the east; and, after a vojage often days, land was seen at a distance nearly covered with snow. On approaching the shore, it was found to be terminated in many pkices by perpendicular ice cliffs of considerable height Pieces continually broke off with a noise Uke the report of cannon, and floated out to sea. The general aspect of the country was savage and horrid in the extreme. The wild rocks raised their lot\y summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Our navi* gator, who at first view of this land supposed that it might be a continent, confesses that he was not much disappointed oo discovering his error; ** for to judge of the bulk by the sample it would not be worth discovering." In latitude 59°, and about 6" to the east of New Georgia^ as this inhospitable shore was named, land was again seen, presenting an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-clad summits reached above the clouds. To this bleak region Cook gave the name of the Southern Thuk, as it was the most southern land which had yet been discover- ed ; but on leaving the coast he gave to the whole country the general appellation of Sandwich Landj which he concluded to be either a group of islands or the southern continent. But the great quantities of ice which he met with led him to infer the existence of a large tract of land near the south pole. He now sailed as far as the latitude assigned to Bouvet's supposed discovery ; but no indications of land occurred, nor wn.\ it pos- sible to believe any longer in the eidstence of Cape Circum- cision. On the 3d of August, they found themselves abreast a loftj promontory; and early the next morning, the captain went with two boats, to examine the coast, to look for a proper land- ing place, wood and water. At this time the natives began to assemble on the shor 3,%nd by signs invited them to land. The captain went first to a small beach, where he found no good landing. Some of the natives who were there offered to haul the boat over the breakers to iho. sandy beach, which was thought a friendly offer ; but th^y had reason afterwards to alter their opinion. They put into the shore in two or three places, but not liking the situation did not land. By this time the natives conceived what they wanted, as they directed the boat round the rocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, the captain stept out of the boat without wetting a foot, in the face of a great multitude, with only a green -branch in his hand. They received him with great courtesy and politeness; and would retire back fiom the boat on his making the least motion with his hand. A man, whom he took to be a chief, seeing thia, made^eiHk form a semicircle round the boat's bow, and .,1 • 'Is • JAMES COOK. 226 beat such as attempted to break through this order. This man he loaded with presents, giving likewise to others, and asked by signs for fresh water, in hopes of seeing where they got it. The chief immediately sent a man for some, who ran to a house, and presently returned with a little in a bamboo ; so that he gained but little information by this. He next asked by the same means for something to eat ; and they as readily brought him a yam and some cocoa-nuts. In short, he was charmed with their behaviour; and the only thing which could give the least suspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, bows and ar> rows. For this reason the captain kept his eye continually upon the chief, and watched his looks as well as his actions. He made many signs to haul the boat upon the shore, and at last slipped into the crowd, where the captain observed him speak to several people, and then return, repeating signs to haul the boat up, and hesitating a good deal before lie would receive some spike nails which were then offered him. This made him suspect something was intended, and immediately he stepped into the boat, telling them by signs that he should soon return. But they were not for parting so soon, and now attempted by force, what they could not obtain by gentler means. As they were putting off the boat, they laid hold of the gang- board, and unhooked it off the boat's stern ; but as they did not take it away, it was thought this had been done by acci- dent, ond he ordered the boat in again to tak" it up. Then the natives hooked it over the boat's stern, and attempted to haul her ashore ; others at the same time, snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On pointing a musket at them, they in some measure desisted, but returned in an instant, seemingly determined to effect their purpose. At the head of this party was the chief. Signs and threats having no effect, their own safety became the only consideration ; and yet the captain was unwilling to fire on the multitude, and resolved to make the chief alone fall a victim to his own treachery ; but his musket, at this critical moment, missed fire. Whatever idea they might have formed of their arms, the natives must now have looked upon them as childish weapons, and began to let them see how much better theirs were, by throwing stones and darts, and by shooting arrows. This made it al^ solutely necessary to give orders to fire. The first discharge tluew them into confusion ; but a second was hardly sufficiervt to drive them off the beach. Four lay, to all appearance, dead on the shore ; but two afterwards crawled into the bushes. Happy it was for these people, that not half the muskets would 20 *v> 936 JAMES COOK. go ofT, Otherwise ninny more must hove fuUcn. Ono sailur was wounded in the uhcck with n durt, the point of which whs as thick ns ti httlc tingor, and yet it entered ahovc two inches ; which shows that it must have come with great force. As soon as they got on hoard, the c .ptain ordered the anchor to bo weighed. While this was doing, several peoph; appeared on the rocky point, disphiying two oars which had been lotit in the scuffle. This they supposed was a sign of submission, and of their wanting to give thcni the oars, lie neverthelcsH iircd a four pound shot at them, to kt them sec the eHects of their great guns. The ball fell short, but frightened theia su much, that none were seen nllerwnrds; and they lefl the oars standing up against the bushes. In the night of the 5th of August, they saw a volcano, which they observed to throw up vast quantities of tire and smoke with a rumbling noise. They now made sail for the island M'hcnce it seemed to proceed, and presently after discovered a small inlet, which had the appearrtnce of being a good har- bour. Towards evening the viaptain lauded at the head of the harbour, with a strong party of men, without any opposition being made by a great number of natives, who were usscniblcd in two parties, the one on the right and the other on the left, nil armed. After distributing to the old people and some others, presents of cloth, medals, «Se.c., he ordered two casks to bo filled with water out of a pond, about twenty paces behind the landing place, giving the natives to understand that this was one of the articles which they wanted. Besides water they got from them a few cocca-nuts, which seemed to be in plenty on the tr-.es ; but they could not be prevailed upon to part with any of their weapons. These they held in constant readiness and in the proper attitudes of olfenee and defence, so that little was wanting to make them attack them. Their early re-embarking probably disconcerted their scheme, and after that they all retired. While they were bringing the ship nearer the shore, to wood and water, they observed the natives assembling from all parts, and forming themtcives into two parties, as they did the pre- ceding evening, one on each side the londing ploce, to the amount of some thousands, armed as before. A canoe now iiiiu dicn came off, bringing a tew cocoa-nuts and plantains. The captain made an old man, who seemed well disposed, understand by signs that they were to lay aside their weapor j, and throwing those which were in the canoe overboard, ma !j him a present of a large piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he understood him, and made this request known to his ooupti^men; for as soon as he landed, they observed he went . • »» JAMES COOK. 227 first to one porty and then to the other ; nor wos he ever after seen with any thing like a weapon in his hand. After this, three fvilows came in a canoe under the Htern, one of them hrandishin;r a chib with which he struck the ship's side, and committed other acts of defiance, but at last oficred to ex- change it for a string of beads and some other trifles. These were sent down to him by a line ; but the moment they were ill his possession, he and his companions paddled ofl" in all hnste without giving the club in return. This was what the captain expected, and indeed what he was not sorry for, as he wanted an opportunity to show the multitude on shore the cftVct of their fire-arms, without materially hurting them. Having a fowling-piece with small shot he gave the fellow the contents; and when they were above musket shot off, he or- dcnjd 8om(! of the musketoons to be fired, which alarmed them much. This tranjaction, however, seemed to make little or no impression on the people there ; on the contrary, they be« gnn to halloo and make sport of it. After mooring the shi|;, and placing the arlillery in such a manner as to command the whole harbour, he embarked with the marines and a party of seamen, in three boats, and rowed in for the shore. It has been already mentioned, that the two divisions of the natives were drawn up on each side the land- ing place. They had left a space between them of about thirty or forty yards, in which were laid to the most advantage, a few large burcMCS of plantains, a yam, and two or three roots. The old man before mentioned, and two or three more, invited them, by signs, to land; but *he former trap was still in their memory, which they were so near being caught ih at the last island, and this looked something like it. In short every thing conspired to 'tiake them believe they meant to attack them as soon as they should be on shore. To prevent this, the captain ordered a musket to be fired over the party on the right, which was by far the strongest body ; but the alarm it gave them was momciilur)'. In an instant they re- covered themselves, and began to display their weapons. The ship now fired a few guns, which presently d" persed them, when the party landed and marked out the limits, on the right and left, by a line. The natives came gradually to them, seemingly in a more friendly uianner, some even without their weapons; but far the greatest part brought them, and when they made signs to lay them down, they gave the English to understand that they must lay down theirs firbt. Thus all^ parties stood armed. Many seemed afraid to touch what be- longed to the visitors, and they seemed to have no notion of ex*- changing one thing for another. ■^x" iTm 228 JAMES COOK. Cook had now made a circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to demon- strate that no southern continent existed, unless near the pole, and beyond the reach of navigation. During this circumnavi- gation of the globe, from the time of his leaving the Cape of Good Hope, to his return to it again, lie had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues. On the 13th of July, 1775, he landed at Portsmouth, having been absent from Great Britain three years and eighteen days ; during which time, and under all changes of climate, he had lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness. It has been related above, that Captain Cook, on approach- ing New Zealand for the second time in the course of this voy- age, lost sight of the Adventure, and never joined company with that ship again. Captain Furneaux was long baffled by adverse winds in his attempt to reach Queen Charlotte*s Sound, which was appointed the rendezvous for the ships in case of separation. At length, on the 30th of November, che Adven- ture got safe into the desired port. The Resolution not being there. Captain Furneaux and his company began to entertain doubts of her safety ; but, on going ashore, they observed on an old stump cT a tree these words cut out — " Look under- neath." They dug accordingly, and soon found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, signifying his arrival on the 3d, and departure on the 24th. Great exertions were now made to get the Adventure ready for sea, and on the 17th of December, the preparations bein|» completed, Mr. Rowe, a midshipman, with nine men, were sent in the large cutter to gather a stock of wild greens for the ship's company. As the boat did not return the same evening nor the next morning, and the ship was nov ready for sea, Mr. Burney, the second lieutenant, proceeded m search of her, in the launch, manned with the boat's crew and ten marines. The launch proceeded, firing guns into all the coves by way of signals, but no traces of the cutter were found ti'! iliey reached Grass Cove : here a great many baskets were seen lying on the beach tied up ; when cut open, some of them were round to be full of roasted flesh, and some of fern root, which served the natives for bread. On further search, some shoes were picked up, and a hand, which was immediately known to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of the forecastle men, the initials of his name being marked on it with an Otaheitan tatooing instrument. The natives were collected in considera- ble numbers round Grass Cove, shouting and inviting the BngUsh to land, but evidently with no friendly intentions. From t^eir numbers, and the suspicion which their conduct ^- JAMES COOK. 229 excited in our people. Lieutenant Burney did not deem it pru- dent to trust himself among them, but he pursued his examin- ation far enough to obtain a melancholy certainty as to the fate of his unfortunate companions. '* On the beach," he says, " were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter ; a broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied thoir canoes, a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched aH alon J at the back of the beach to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned nor thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach ; and, at a little dis- tance, the dogs gnawing their entrails." The men who had thus fallen' victims to the barbarity of the natives were among \hi healthiest and best of the ship's crew. The Adventure was detained in the sound four days after this lamentable occurrence; during which time no natives were seen. On the 23d of December, however, she got to sea, and in little more than a month reached Cape Horn, being favoured by a strong current running to the east, and by west- erly winds which blow continually in the summer season in die great ocean. Captain Furneaux continued his course east- ward to the Cape of Good Hope, where he refitted his ship and refreshed his people. He then sailed for England, and anchored at Spithead on the 14th of July, 1774. In 1769 some discoveries of importance were made in the South Seas by a French mercantile adventurer. Two ships were fitted out in Bengal by MM. Law and Chevalier, for a trading voyage to Peru, and were placed under the command of M. de Surville. While he was preparing to embark, news arrivftf? in India that the English had discovered in the South Se; ,M .\n hundred leagues from Peru, and in latitude 27° S., aii ' , «] exceedingly rich, and inhabited by Jews. This story g't' i or Jit, being congenial to the avaricious cravings of mankii I ; nad even those who suspected fiction in the men- tion of Jews were still willing to believe that the newly discov- ered country was eminently rich. Surville, touching at the Bashee Islands^ carried off three of the natives to supply the deficiencies of his crew ; thus furnishing a conspicuous exam- ple of that overbearing violence which has almost universally forced weak and <;mcivilized nations to regard Europeans as their natural enemies. In running to the south-east from Ne^ '■^jinea he discovered land, to which he gave the name of the ^id of the Araacides^ and which was, in fact, a part of that bag chain of islands that had already been seen by Boiigain- 20» 230 JAMES COOK. ▼ille, who gave the name of Louisiade to the portion which he had examined. Surville, in his intercourse with the natives^ found them to be of a fierce, intractable, and treacherous dis- position, and chose to designate them Arsacides^ a name which he supposed to be equivalent to the word assassins. Surville afterwards visited New Zealand, and anchored in a bay, to which he gave the name of Lauriston. Captain Cook, who named it Double Bay^ was at the same time employed in sur- veying its shores, yet these two navigators did not meet nor descry each other. The French commander, having lost his boat while anchoring here, went on shore with an armed party to punish the natives, whom he supposed to have stolen it. In a short time he burned several villages, and carried off a native chief. This outrage, perpetrated by some of the first Europe- ans who visited them, was soon afterwards repaid with cruel reprisals by tl'e New Zealanders. The chief died at Juan Fernandez, an *^ ^r- ille was drowned while going onshore at Valparaiso. The ttand of the Arsacides, which Surville had coasted on the north-eastern side, was again discovered in 1789, by Lieu- tenant Shortland, of the British navy, on his voyage from Port Jackson to the East Indies : he followed its southern shores, to which he gave the name of New Georgia^ and passed through the straits of Bougainville, which he named from him- self, being apparently ignorant of the discoveries of the French navigators. The chain of large islands thus seer, successively and partially by Bougainville, Surville, and Shortland, and which stretch from north-west to south-east, between New Guinea and the New Hebrides, are unquestionably the Salo- mon Islands of the early Spanish navigators. The Egmont Island of Carteret, who sought the Salomon Islands, and who approached them very closely without being aware of it, may be considered as belonging to the archipelago. It has been already mentioned that Bougainville brought home with him to France a native of Otaheite named Aootoo- roo. When the fame of Cook*s discoveries began to excite a general interest in Europe, Captain Marion 4" Fresne, anima- ted with a desire to emulate the glory of the English navigator, piTered to take back the Otaheitean to his native land from the iile of France at his own expense: the offer was accepted; ^nd Kerguclen, a navigator of some note, was commissioned to carry Aootooroo to the Isle of France, and then to proceed to examine more carefully the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. The Otaheitean died at Madagascar ; but Marion did not on that account relinquish his plans, but proceeded, in the ardent hope of making some important discoveries. He JAMES COOK. 231 orriTed at New Zealand without anj accident, and anchored in the Bay of Islands, where his people lived on terms of familiarity, and apparently of cordial friendship with the na- tives ; hut some offence was given unawares to the passionate and capricious savages: Marion was murdered, with sixteen officers and men who had accompanied him on shore. Anoth- er party of ele^ n men, who were employed cutting wood in a different quarter, were at the same time set upon suddenly, and only one escaped to the ships to relate the dismal fate of his companions. When the French landed to seek the remains of their unfortunate commander, the natives insultingly cried' to them from their fastnesses, " Tacowry (the chief of the dis- trict) has killed and eaten Marion." After this melancholy accident the ships returned to the Isle of France under the command of M. Duclesmeur, all plans of discovery being aban- doned. Kerguelen in the mean time sailed from the Isle of France in January, 1772; and, on the 12th of February, discovered, in latitude 50^ 5' S., high land, near the coast of which he re- mained six days ; during this time he was separated from the corvette which accompanied him. To the bleak and sterile shores which he had discovered he gave his own name ; took formal possession of them for his sovereign ; and, on his return to France, described their appearance in such glowing terms, that Louis XV., deceived by his representations, hung to his button-hole, with his own hand, the cross of St. Louis. Ker- guelen's enemies, however, insisted that he had seen ice at a distance, and mistaken it for land ; they called on him to show some of the productions of the country as a proof of his dis- covery, and insinuated that he had purposely got rid of his comrade that he might be at liberty to indulge in gross fictions. The king, however, afforded him the means of refuting these aspersionn: Kerguelen sailed again to the Southern Atlantic; and, in December, 1773, again discovered land : by the 6th of January following he had traced its coasts above eighty leagues. It was, however, a barren, inhospitable, and, in general, an unapproachable sh("-e, affording nothing that could satisfy the French nation of th^ importance of his discoveries. On his return he was accused of culpable indifference to the safety of his men and ofiicers, or rather of purposely exposing those whom he disliked to dangers which eventually proved fatal. Being unable to exculpate himself, he was deprived of his rank and thrown into prison. No expedition, fitted out for the purpose of maritime disccr- ery, had ever equalled that from which Captain Cock had now returned, in the magnitude and arduous nature of its peculiar 4.-...*V" 232 >AMES COOK. object; and none had ever so completely onsvrered its inten- tions, and performed its task with so little loss of life or injunr to the ships. The success of Cook's voyage was gratifying in the highest degree to those who bad patronized the undertaking. The Karl of Sandwich was still at the head of the admiralty, iand felt naturally disposed to reward liberally one whose cour- age and skill had so well justified his expectations. Cook was immediately raised to the rank of post captain, and obtained a m .'re substantial mark of favour, being appointed one of the captains of Greenwich hospital^ which afforded him a Uberal maintenance and repose from his professior.il labours. . In February, 1776, only a few months after his return, he was elected a fellow of the Royal Society; and on the evening of his first appearance there, a paper was read containing an ac- count of the method he had taken to preserve the health of the crew of his majesty's ship the Resolution, during her voyage round the world. The humane and successful attention which Cook bestowed on his ship's company was soon afler reward- ed by the Copley medal, a prize annually bestowed by the Royal Society on the author of the best experimental paper of the year. In the discourse which the President, Sir John Pringle, delivered on the occasion of bestowing the medal, he uses the following emphatic expressions : — " What inquiry can be so useful as that which has for its object the saving the lives of men? and where shall we find one more successful than that before us? Here are no vain boastings of the empiric, nor ingenious and delusive theories of the dogmatist ; but a concise and artless, and an uncontested, relation of the menns by which, under divine favour. Captain Cook with a company of one hundred and eighteen men per- formed a voyage of three years and eighteen days throughout all the climates from fifty-two degrees north to seventy-one de- grees south latitude, with the loss of only one man by sickness. I would now inquire of the most conversant with the bills of mortality, whether, in the most healthy climate, and the best condition of life, they have ever found so small a number of deaths within that space of time ? How great and agreeable, then, must our surprise be, after purusing the histories of long navigations in former days, when so many perished by marine diseases, to find the air of the sea acquitted of all malignity; and, in fine, that a voyage round the world may be undertaken with less danger, perhaps, to health, than a common tour in Europe !" The great question, as to the existence of a southern conti- nent, was finally set at rest by the result of this voyage ; not but that immense tracts of land might exist in the neighbour' .i \. :\ JAMES COOK. 233 n tour in hood of the south pole. But Cook*8 researches reduced the limits of the southern continent, if it exist at all, within such high latitudes, as completely to dispel all those hopes of un- bounded wealth and fertility with which imagination had hith- eno graced that undiscovered country. One grand problem still divided the opinions of speculative geographers, and eluded every attempt made at a practical solution. The English na- tion had always felt a peculiar interest in the question of a north-west passage. Their earliest and most constant efforts in the career of discovery were directed towards Hudson^s and Baffin's Bays in search of a communication with the Pacific Ocean, so that they might sail by a shorter navigation to China and Japan. In consequence of the disputes between Mr. Dobbs and Captain Middleton, respecting the feasibility of the scheme, the agitation of the question was tolerably recent in the public mind, and government adopting the views of the former gentleman, a reward of twenty thousand pounds was offered by act of parliament to those who should discover the desired passage. The British government, captivated with the glory that might result from expeditions destined for the improvement of science, resolved now to direct its exertions towards the north- west ; and, as a preliminary measure. Captain Phipps, (after- wards lord M ulgrave,) was despatched towards the north pole, to ascertain how far navigation was practicable in that quar- ter. After struggling o*>stinately with innumerable difficulties and dangers, arising from the quantity of ice that beset him, he was obliged to return, after having penetrated to the lati- tude of 80° 30', or within 9J° of the terrestrial pole. The hope of finding a passage between the Atlantic and Pa- cific Oceans was not, however, abandoned ; and consultations were held by lord Sandwich with Sir Hugh Palliser, and other experienced officers, relative to the plan which should be adopted in the expedition, and to the choice of a commander. Captain Cook had earned, by his eminent services, the privi- lege of honourable repose ; and no one thought of imposing on him, for the third time, the dangers and hardships of a voyage of discovery round the world : but being invited to dine with lord Sandwich, in order that he might lend the light of his valuable experience to the various particulars under dis- cussion, he was so fired with the observations that were made on the benefits likely to redound to science, to navigation, and the intercourse of mankind, from the projected expedition, that he voluntarily offered to take the command of it himself. This proposal was too much in accordance with the wishes of lord Sandwich to be rejected through motives of mere ddittacy ; '* 334 JAMES COOK. and Captain Cook was appointed accordingly to the command of the expedition in February, 1776. The act of parHament, passed in 1745, which secured a reward of twenty thousand pounds to ships belonging to any of his majestifs subjects, which should make the proposed discovery, was now also amended so as to include ships belonging to his majesty, and proceeding in any direction, for the old act referred only to ships which should find a passage through Hudson's Bay ; whereas Cook was directed by his instructions to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, and to commence his researches on the north-west coast of America, in the latitude of 65^ ; and not to lose time in exploring rivers or inlets until he had reached that latitude. The vessels fitted out for this voyage were the Resolution and Discovery, the latter under the command of Captain Ed- ward Clerke. Messrs. Bay ley and Anderson, who had both ■accompanied Captain Cook in his preceding voyage, now embarked with him a second time, the former in the capacity of astronomer, the latter in that of naturali-it. Omai, who, during his residence in England, had been treated with great kindness, and loaded with presents from all quarters, now prepared to return to his native country ; but the joy which he felt at the idea of returning to his relations in possession of inestimable riches, (for such the gifts with which he was loaded appeared to him to be,) scarcely equalled his regret at quitting shores where he experienced so much kindness and attention, and where the multiplicity of strange objects presented to his view, awakened him as it were to a new existence. On the 12th of July, 1776, Captain Cook sailed from Ply- mouth Sound on his third voyage of discovery. In Table Bay, near the Cape of Good Hope, he was joined by Captain CJerke, whose departure had been unavoidably retarded. Here both the ships increased their freight of live stock, con- sisting of cows, horses, sheep, and goats, which were destined for the supply of the islands in the South Seas. On the 30th of November our navigators left the Cape of Good Hope ; and, on the 12th of the following month, two small islands were descried : they had been previously discovered by Marion and Crozet ; but not having received any name from them. Captain Cook called them Prince Edward^s Islands. They appeared to be bleak and desolate, with bold rocky shores, and moun- tains in the rear, the sides and summits of which were covered with snow. Though it was now summer in the southern hemisphere, the weather was as severe as it usually is in Eng- land in the depth of winter. •.ftw-' .•^ ♦ t. MM£S COOK. 235 On the 24th high land was again seen, which proved to be that discovered not long before by the French navigator, Ker- guekn. A bottle was found on shore containing a piece o^ parchment, with an inscription written by him, intimating that he had visited this country in 1772 and 1773. Cook wrote the names of his ships and the date of his voyage on the other side of the parchment, which he then replaced in the bottle. This country appeared, as far as the eye could reach, to be little better than a huge assemblage of bare rocks ; it had a little herbage, but not a single shrub or tree. Some verdure, which from the sea had an enticing appearance, was found, od nearer approach, to be occasioned by a small plant resembling saxifrage, which, with a few species of mosses and lichens, constituted the whole vegetable productions of this inhospitable shore. Fresh water, however, was abundant, and the rocks were covered with penguins and with seals: the latter so un< used to be disturbed, that they evinced no timidity ; and as many as were wanted for thair oil or skins were killed with- out difficulty. Cook found that Kerguelen's Land, instead of being a continent, as it? tirst discoverer had supposed, was only an island, extending in breadth from north to south not more than one hundred miles. He did not wish to change the name which it had received from its first discoverer, but that which he suggested as extremely applicable to it — The Island of Desolation, — has since been generally adopted in English maps. Soon after leaving this desolate coast, our navigators fell in with wiiids from the north, which brought on so dense a log that the ships ran above three hundred leagues in the dark : they could rarely descry each other, and it was necessary to fire guns continually to prevent the inconvenience of a separa- tion. At length, on the 26th of January, 1777, the ship^ a/ichored in Adven*ure Bay, on the southern coast of Van Dieman's Land. Here their first care was to collect grass for the cattle, which had suffered much from the severity of the weather and the distresses of a long sea passage. Two young bulls, one heifer, two rams, and several of the goats, had died while the ships were employed in the survey of K.erguelen's Land. While the EngUsh remained here they were agreeably sur- prised by a visit from some oithe natives, who in tb<^ir abject misery, rooted indolence, and stupidity, appeared to be on an equality with the wretched inhabitants of Terra del Fuego. Their most comfiMtable dwellings were the trunks of large trees hollowed out by fire. They appeared to be ignorant of the art of fishing ; not a single uanoe was seen on their ! 236 JAMES COOK. coast. Their chief subsistence was derived from small birds and shell-fish, which they collected along the shore. A sufficient supply of fodder being procured for the cattle, Captain Cook left Van Dieman's Land, of which, relying on the erroneous conclusions of Captain Furneaux, he observes, "It is well known to be the southern part of New Holland." The ships anchored on the 12th of February in their old station in Queen Charlotte's Sound. .On their arrival in New Zealand there were but two invalids in both the crews. Cap- tain Cook was not a little surprised at the shyness and mistrust of the natives, most of whom were known to him, and had ex- perienced his kindness on his former voyages ; but he soon discovered the cause of their timidity. Omai was on board the Adventure with Captain Furneaux on the former voyage, when ten of the crew of that vessel, as above related, fell vic- tims to the ferocity of the natives. Seeing Omai now on board the Resolution, they judged that Captain Cook could not be ignorant of the affair, and dreaded his vengeance in conse- quence ; but as soon as he understood the cause of their mis- trust, he labou .a to convince them of his friendly intentions, assuring them that he had no design of retaliating on them for the consequences of an affray to which he was a stranger; and that so long as they conducted themselves peaceably they might consider him as their friend. A chief named Kahoora frankly avowed that he had acted a principal part in cutting off Captain Furneaux's people, and that he had himself killed Mr. Rowe their commander. The attack was not, it appears, premeditated, but had its origin in a theft committed by one party and resented with hasty violence by the other; but when Captain Cook declared his willingness to forgive, he soon re> gained the confidence of the natives. To one chief he gave two goats, a male and a female, with a kid ; and to another, two pigs. It was his intention at first to have left here some sheep also, along with a bull and two heifers ; but fearing that the chiefs whom he found on this part of the coast were not powerful enough to protect the cattle from those who might ignorantly aim at destroying them, he changed his plan. He learned from the natives that the poultry which or former occa- sions he had lefl on the island had increased, the garden vege- tables, though neglected, yet multiplied naturally, and some of them, as the potatoe, were greatly improved by the richness of the soil. At the request of Omai he consented to take with him two youths from New Zealand, who seemed at first delight- ed with the change ; but when they completely lost sight of their native country, they were overwhelmed with violent grief, which continued for many days. ^ ^ ''^ ^. ^ . JAMES COOK. 237 On the 25th of February the ships sailed from Queen Char- lotte's Sound, and nothing remarkable occurred till the 29th of the following month, when land was discovered, which proved to be an inhabited island, called by the natives Mangeea. It was found impossible to land upon it for the surf. The natives spoke a language differing but little from that of the Socie^ Islands, and were a handsome, vigorous people, resembling Spaniards in complexion. They wore white turbans on their beads, made of cloth like that of Otaheite ; they also wore sandals, woven apparently with a strong grassy substance. One of them who ventured on board the ship happened to stumble over one of the goats, and immediately asked Omai what bird it was. This apparent blunder of the simple island- er will appear less surprising when we reflect, that the name of a bird was perhaps the only general term for animals in his language ; and therefore the only one appUcable to a creature like a goat, not belonging to any of the species with which he was already acquainted. Some leagues to the north of Mangeea another island was discovered, which the natives called Wateeo. Here our navi- gators went on shore, and were conducted by crowds of ad- miring natives to the chief, who hospitably entertained them. Some plan, however, seemed to be concerted to separate the English, and to cut them off from their retreat to the ships ; and perhaps the Indians were chiefly deterred from the execu- tion of this plot by the exaggerations of Omai, who relating the wonders he had seen in England, described guns or instru- ments of war so large, that many men could sit within them, and which at one discharge could sink the island in the ocean. When questioned respecting the guns on board the ship, he said that they were capable of destroying immediately all the people on the island, though the ships were at that time a con- siderable distance from the shore. His story was not at first imphcitly believed; but as he took delight in exciting the wonder of those who were simpler than himself, he heaped together a few cartridges, which he earned in his pocket, and then throwing on them some red hot embers, the conflagration and report that ensued appeared to the natives so astonishing, as sufiiciently to confirm all that he had related. They were consequently more cautious of giving offence to the English, who on the approach of evening were allowed to return to the On this island Omai met with three of his countrymen, whose surprising adventure most happily illustrates the man- ner in which the scattered islands of the great ocean might have been originally peopled. About twenty peraons of both 21 :' '• ;■ ;. iv 336 JAMES COOK. sexes had embarked ui a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbouring island of Ulietea. For this short passage they haa taken but a moderate stock of provisions. A violent tem- pest arose, which drove them they knew not whither for many days. They had nothing to eat or drink, and their numbers daily diminished, worn out by hunger nnd fatigue. At length the canoe overset, when four only remained alive, and the de- struction of this small remnant seemed now inevitable. They clung, however, to the sides of their vessel for some days, and providentially drifled towards this island, when the notives im- mediately sent out canoes and brought them ashore. Of tho four who were thus saved one had since died ; the remaining three were so well satisfied with the kind treatment they had received, that they rejected the olSer made to them at Omai's request of a passage to their native island. As the inhabitants of the archipelagoes in the great ocean are frequently at sea, crossing from one island to another with their wives and fami- lies, accidents like this, which transported four individuals a distance of two hundred leagues, are likely to be of frequent occurrence. At all the islands which our navigators had dis- covered since their departure from New Zealand, they had been disappointed from the want of good anchorage and other circumstances, in their hope of finding water and provisions. The season was now far advanced, and large supplies of pro- visions would be necessary before proceeding into high irortb- ern latitudes. The prosecution of discoveries, therefore, in that direction was unavoidably postponed till the following year, as it was now much too late to venture into unknown seas with the prospect of achieving ony thing important. Captain Cook determined to employ the intervening time in examining more minutely the seas between the tropics. He accordingly directed his course Vj the Friendly Islands, and on the 1st of May arrived at Annmooka. Here he expe- rienced the kindest treatment from a chief named Fenou, by whose persuasions he was induced to go to Hepaee, a large island, or rather a cluster of islands, connected together by reefs passable at low water, and situated towards the north of this archipelago. The abundance of provisions which he found at Hepaee justified the representations of his friend Fenou. Here also he met with Poulaho, the king of the Friendly Islands, who treated our np.vigators with a lavish generosity worthy of a sovereign. Tongataboo, or Amsterdam Island, is the centre of his insular dominions, which extends, according to the natives, over one hundred and fifty islands. Several of these, indeed, are low rocky islets, without any inhabitants. About tbirty-five of them are said to be larger, and must con^ JAMES COOK. 239 •equently be of much greater extent than Anamooka, which is ranked among the smaller isles. It is probable that the Prince William's Islands of Tasman, and the KcppcKs and Bosca- wen*s Islands of Captain Wallis, are comprehended in this list of islands subject to Toncataboo. When Poulaho was a^ed in what manner the inhabitants of this latter island had acquired the knowledge of iron, he re- plied that they had at first received it from a neighbouring island called Neeootabootaboo. A ship had touched at that island a few years before, and had purchased a club from one of the natives for five nails which were afterwards sent to Ton- g»taboo. This was the first iron known among them, and there can be little doubt that the ship from which it was pro- cured was the Dolphin. If Poulaho's description of this island be compared with Captain Wallis* narrative, it will appear evident that Neeootabootaboo is the same as Keppel's Island. But the most considerable islands within the knowledge of these people are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee. The two for- mer are the largest islands under the dominion of Tongataboo ; and from the information which Captain Cook received, it would appear that the inhabitants of Hamoa had outstripped the other islanders in arts and refinement. Feejeo was hostile to Tongataboo, and its inhabitants were regarded with dread by the natives of the Friendly Islands for their fierceness in battle, and their savage practice of devouring their enemies. The men of Feejee, while they retain this barbarous custom, are not inferior to their neighbours in art and ingenuity. Be- fore Captain Cook left the Friendly Islands he repaid the kind- ness of Poulaho by a gift of inestimable value, consisting of live stock, horses, cows, sheep, and goats. The islanders seemed gratified with the gift, and promised not to kill any of the animals until they had multiplied to a considerable num- ber. On touching at Eooa our navigators were supplied with turnips, the produce of some seed scattered by them here on a former voyage. After remaining at the Friendly Islandr between two and three months, during which time he became minutely ac- quainted with their geography, and the character of their in- habitants. Captain Cook at length took his departure from them, and on the 12th of August arrived at Otaheite, He found that a Spanish ship had touched here in the mean time, and had put on shore some cattle, of which a bull alone re- mained alive. He felt great pleasure, therefore, in augment- ing the stock of the island with three or four heifers, besides a horse and mare, which were intended as a present tp the king, Otoo. Two days after their arriral here Captains Cook 240 JAMBS COOK. and Clerke mounted on horseback, and took a ride round the plain of Matavai ; to the great surpiise of a multitude of the natives who attended upon the occasion, and gazed upon the horsemen with as much astonishment as if they had been cen- taurs. What the two captains hr.d begun was afterwards re- peated every day by the other ship*li officers, notwithstanding which the curiosity of the Otnheiteans still continued unaba- ted. They were exceedingly delighted with these animals when they saw the use that was made of them. Not all tlie novelties put together which European visiters had carried among the inhabitants, had inspired them with so high an idea of the greatness of distant nations. Otoo was by no means ungrateful for the benefits conferred on him ; he offered a small double canoe, very elegantly finished, as a present to king George ; and he manifested his sense of respect still more strongly in expressing a wish that the English would establish a permanent settlement on the island. During this visit to Otaheite Captain Cook had an opportunity of witnessing the fearful excesses to which these social islanders are hurried by superstition, and of observing the number of human sacrificrs offered to their idols, on every occasion of war or other general excitement. [t only remained now to settle Omai in the island of Hua- heine, w'^ich had been chosen as his residence. A piece of giound was alotted to him by the chiefs of the island ; a com- fortable wooden house was erected for him by the carpenters of the ships. All the treasures which he had brought from England \f ore landed, and the two young men from New Zea- land, though reluctant, were prevailed upon to remain with him, so that his family cor»isted altogether of twelve or thir- teen persons. In order to deter the natives from treating him with injustice or violence, Captain Cook spoke of returning at no great distance of time. Omai did not live long to erjjoy his good fortune ; it does not appear that he had any re&snn to complain of the rapacity or covetou^ness of his neig'.ibours. The numerous articles of European manufacture which were in his possession, rendered his house a spenHid museum :n. the eyes of a South Sea islander ; and it is possible that his pride felt gratified in being thus able to minister to their wonder and admiration. He conducted himself prudently, and gained the esteem of his neighbours, by the aftability with which he re- counted his voyages and adventures. About two years and a half after Captain Cook's departure, Omai died a natc*ral death ; nor did the New Zealanders survive him long enough to furnish European n.^vigatofs with an ample account of the y. V'A' JAML^ COOK. 241 influence which his experience and observations abroad may hnve exerted on his countrymen. On the 8th of December our royagcrs left Borabora, and lost sight of the Society Islands ; their course was towards the north, and, on the 18th of January, in latitude 31° N., land was discovered, which proved to be an island of considerable size, and beyond it two others successively became visible. Ai the ships approached the second island, a number of canoes came off from the shore, and the English were no less pleased than surprised to hear the natives speak the language of Ota- hcite. When they came on bo. :d they expre.«!ded their aston- ishment at the numtirous strange objects that met their eyes, with more lively emotions than Captain Cook had ever yet witnessed among savage nations. They did not appear to be quite ignorant of iron, yet the wonder and surprise they dis- played at every thing they saw, left little room to doubt that they were wholly unacquainted with Europeans. When Cap- tain Cook went on shore, the people fell flat oi: their faces be- fore him, as if rendering homage to a superior being. The island was amply provided with the necessaries of life ; pigs, fowls, and fruits were purchased advantageously : and Captain Cook made an important addition to the natural wealth of the island, by putting on shore some of his live stock. Among other articles brought by the natives for trade were cloaks and helmets, beautifully made with red and yellow feathers. These islanders were not inferior to the inhabitants of the more south- erly groups in ingenuity or friendliness of disposition. They seemed to Captain Cook to be less fickle and voluptuous than the natives of Otaheite, and less sullenly grave than those of Tongataboo ; but his growing partiality to them was checked on discovering that they occasionally banqueted on human flesh. Of the group now for the first time visited, only five rslands were seen by Captain Cook, and to these, in compliment to his noble patron, the first lord of the admiralty, he gave col- lectively the name of the Sandwich Islands. It only remained now to accomplish the specific object of the voyage, by examining the north-west coast of America, and particularly by trying to effect a passage into the Atlantic Ocean, round the northern extremity of that continent. On the 7th of March our navigators made the coast of New Albion in latitude 44^ 33'. The inhabitants of this country were clad in furs which they oflfered for sale; they conducted themselves civilly, toward*; the English, but were remarkably tenacious of the rights of property, and expected payment for every thing, even the wood and water which the strangers took from the shore. They displayed considerable ingenuity, and wen 21* I ^ . 949 JAMBB COOK, acquainted with iron, although in all their dealings they gave the preference to brass, in consequence of which the sailors, in bartering for furs parted with all their buttons. Among other articles procured from these people by exchange, were two silver spoons, which, as well as the iron, were supposed by Captain Cook to have been obtained by a circuitous inland trade, either from the Spaniards in Mexico, or the English factories in Hudson's Bay. He was not aware that this coast had been surveyed by the Spaniards four years previously ; and that while the Spanish vessels lay here, the natives had exercised with great success their thieving propensities: to this part of the coast he gave the name of King George's Sound, but the native name of Nootka has since prevailed. On leaving Nootka Sound, the violence of the wind com- pelled him to keep at a distance from the shore, so that for aome degrees he was foiled in his intention of surveying it; but, in latitude 59° he entered another wide inlet, to which he gave the name of Prince William^s Sound, and here was surprised to find that the natives, in dress, language, and physical pecu- Uarities, were exactly like the Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay. Beautiful skins were obtained in plenty from these people for a very moderate price. On proceeding to the north-west, a wide inlet was discovered, which some conjectured might be a strait communicating with the Northern Ocean. It was deemed, therefore, advisable to explore it ; but when the boats had proceeded as high as latitude 61° 34' or about seventy leagues from the entrance, the inlet appeared to terminate in a small riven The ships now proceeded to the west, and doubled the great promontory of Alashka ; and on the 9th of August, they reached the most western point of the American continent, distant only thirteen leagues from the opposite shores of Asia. To this headland Cook gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales. Crossing the strait to the western shores, he anchored near the coast of the Tshuktzki, which he found to extend mony degrees further to the east than the po- sition assigned to them in the maps of that day. He thus ascertained distinctly the width of the strait that separates Asia from America; for though Behring had sailed through it be- fore, he had not descried the shores of the latter continent, and, consequently, remained ignorant of the importance of his discoveries. Our navigotors now pushed forward into the Northern Ocean, Avhen they soon fell in with ice, which gave them reason to suspect the impossibility of continuing, their voyage much farther. At length, on the 18th of August, when after repeated struggles they had attained the l^^^'tude of 70^ 44', they saw the ice before them, extending a r. Franklin, who at that time resided at Paris as ambassador from the United States, had, a short time before, issued a re- quisition, in which he earnestly recommended the command- ers of American armed vessels not to consider Captain Cook :as an enemy. While the ships lay in the river of Canton, the sailors car- ried on a brisk trade with the Chinese for the sea otter skins which they had brought with them from the north-west coast of America, and which were every day rising in their value. **One of our seamen," says Lieutenant King, "sold his stock alone for eight hundred dollars ; ind a few prime skins, which were clean and had been well preserved, were sold for one hundred and twenty dollars each. The whole amount of the value, in specie and goods, that was got for the furs in both ships, I am confident did not fisill short of two thousand pounds -y*.. JAMES COOK. U9; gterling ; and it was generally supposed that at least two thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the AmcricaL^a were spoiled and worn out, or had been given away, or other* wise disposed of in Kamtschatka. When, in addition to these facts, it is remembered that the furs were at first collected without our having any idea of their real value; that the greatest part had been worn by the Indians from whom we purchased them ; that they were afterwards preserved with little care, and frequently used for bedclothes and other pur- poses ; and that probably we had not got the full value for them in China ; the advantages that might be derived from a voyage to that part of the American coast, undertaken with commercial views, appeared to me of a degree of importance sufficient to call for the attention of the public." These ob- servations of Lieutenant King point to that which eventually proved to be the most important result of this expedition. A great branch of trade in the Pacific Ocean, which had hitherto escaped the notice of the nations most interested in its devel- opement, and possessing establishments most conveniently situated for carrying it on, was suddenly discovered, and soon after vigorously prosecuted by a maritime people from the op- posite side of the globe. The crews of both ships were aston- ished, as well as overjoyed, at the price paid them for their furs by the Chinese ; and their rage to return to Cook's River, in order to procure a cargo of skins, proceeded at one time almost to mutiny. A few, indeed, contrived to desert, and were among the first adventurers who crossed the Pacific Ocean in the newly discovered fur trade. The seamen thus uoexpectedly enriched soon underwent a total metamorphosis : they arrived at Macao in rags, many of them having incon- siderately sold their clotiiing in the South Sea Islands ; but, before they left that harbour, they were decked out in gaudy silks and other Chinese finery. Nothing of importance occur- red during the remainder of their voyage home ; and, on the 4th of October, the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an ab- sence of four years two months and twenty-two days. In the whole course of the voyage the Resolution lost but five men by sickness, of whom thre<5 were in a precarious state of health when the expedition left England : the Discovery did not lose a man. In order to estimate the merits of Captain Cook, it will be only necessary to survey generally the extent and nature of his discoveries, and to examine what iarlijence they exerted immediately on the commercial enterprise of nations. In the extent of the coasts which he surveyed or discovered, he far surpasses every other navigator. The eastern coast of New :<* 250 JAME8 COOK. Holland, two thousand miles in extent, was totally unknown till he traced it ; escaping from the dangers of that intricate navigation solely by his cool intrepidity and the resources of his skill. He also circumnavigated New Zealand, the eastern and southern parts of which were quite unknown, and suppo- sed by many to be united to the Terra Australis Incognita. New Caledonia and Norfolk Island were both discovered by him ; and the New Hebrides, from his labours, first assumed a definite shape in our maps. He rendered an essential ser- vice to geography also by his circumnavigating the globe in a high southern latitude ; for, though the exertions and dangers of that difficult navigation were not repaid by any brilliant dis- coveries, it set at rest a question which had for ages divided the opinions of speculative geographers. Sandwich Land, or Southern Thule, may be numbered among his discoveries, al- though it is probably the land which Gcrritz had descried a century before. His discoveries on tlie north-west coast of America were still more important and more extensive. In one voyage he effected more than the Spanish navigators had been able to accomplish in the course of two centuries. In sailing through Behring's Strait, he determined the proximity of Asia and America, which Behring himself had failed to perceive ; and he assigned the coast of the Tshuktzki to its true place; which, in many maps of his time, was placed some degrees too far to the westward. It is needless to recapitulate here the large additions which he made to our knowledge of the groups of islands scattered through the Pacific Ocean. Some of the Society and Friend- ly Islands were known before his time ; but he carefully sur- veyed those archipelagoes, and fixed the positions of the chief islands, such as Otaheite and Tongataboo, with an accuracy equal to that of a European observatory. He prided himself especially on having discovered the Sandwich Islands; and there is no good reason to refuse him that honour ; for, even if it be true that a Spanish navigator, named Gali, discovered those islands in 1576 ; and that he gave to Owhyhee the name of Mesa or Tabic Mountain, which is marked in old Spanish charts twenty-two degrees to the west of the Sandwich Islands, but in the same latitude with them ; yet no stress can be laid on a discovery from which mankind derived no knowledge. The Spaniards seem soon to have totally forgotten the Sand- wich Islands, if they ever knew them, notwithstanding the ad- vantages which they might have derived from those islands in their frequent voyages from New Spain to Manilla. Anson and many other navigators might have been spared infinits It JAMES COOK. 351 distress and suflfcring in their voyages across the Pacific, had any thing certain been knoivn of the existence and situation of the Sandwich Islands. But Cook's merit is not more conspi uous in the extent of his discoveries, than in the correctness with which he laid down the position of every const of which he caught a gUmpse. His surveys afford the materials of accurate geography. He adopted in practice every improvement suggested by the pro- gress of science; and, instead of committing errors amounting to two or three degrees of longitude, like most of his predeces- sors, his determinations were such as to be considered accu- rate even at the present day; nor was this the merit of the nstronomers who accompanied him on his expeditions. He was himself a skilful observer, and at the same time so vigilant and indefatigable, that no opportunity ever escaped him of as- certaining his true place. He possessed in an eminent degree the sagacity peculiar to seamen ; and in his conjectures re- specting the configurations of coasts he very rarely erred. La Perouse, who was a highly accomplished seaman, always mentions the name of Cook with the warmest admiration, and frequently alludes to the remarkable correctness of his surveys. Crozet, also, who wrote the narrative of Marion's voyage, speaking of Cook's survey of the shores of New Zealand says — "That its exactness and minuteness of detail astonished him beyond expression ;" but Cook's skill as a marine surveyor may be still better estimated from the chart which, at the com- mencement of his career, he constructed of the coasts of New- foundland ; and of that chart. Captain Frederick Bullock, the able officer who has recently completed the survey of New- foundland, speaks in those terms of warm commendation which a man of ability naturally bestows on whatever is excellent. From the second expedition of Cook may be dated the art of preserving the health of the seaman in long voyages : before that time, navigators who crossed the Pacific, hurried precipi- tately by the shortest course to the Ladrones or the Philippine Islands ; and yet they rarely reached home without the loss of a large proportion of their crew. Cook, on the other hand, felt himself perfectly at home on the ocean ; he did not care to limit his voyages, either in space of time or of distance; he sailed through every climate, crossing both the arctic and ant- arctic circles; and proved that a voyage of four years duration docs not necessarily affect the health of seamen. This was a discovery of far greater importance than that of a new continent could have been : by his banishing the terror that arose from the frightful mortality that previously attended on long voyages. ;s^ 252 JAMES COOK. lie has mainly contributed to the boldness of navigation which distinguishes the present day. Among the immediate cU'ects of Captain Cook's voyngcs, the most important was the establishment of a colony at Bota- ny Bay. That great navigator stems to have contracted a partiality towards the New Zealandcrs ; he admired their gen- erosity, their manly carriage, and their intelligence. Their country appeared to him fertile ; abounding in commodities which might become valuable in commerce ; and he hints, though with diffidence, to the possibility of a trade being carri- b\A on between Europe and New Zealand. His observations on this subject had influence, no doubt, on the minds of the English ministers, and tbey resolved on establishing a colony at New Holland ; and the result has justified Cook's sanguine anticipations. The fur trade also, which soon caused such a concourse of European shipping in the Pacific Ocean, origin- ated with his third voyage ; but his familiarity with the South Sea islanders, the trade which he established with them, and the practice which he commenced of purchasing sea stores from them, have had, perhaps, a still stronger intluence on navigation in the Pacific. Finally, to complete the eulogium on this great navigator, it will be sufficient to enumerate some of the distinguished sea- men who served under him, suci? as Vancouver, Broughton, Bligh, Burney, Colnett, Portlock, Dixon, &c. : these men learned under Cook the arduous duties of their profession, and they always spoke of him with unqualified admiratioa and respect. ^ m. M ** '« ... ■-> -• ,f^. ■^ SIR JOHN CHARDIN. Sir John Ciiardin was born in Paris on the 16th of No- vember, 1643. He was the son of a rich Protestant jeweller, who, as soon as his education, which appears to have been carefully conducted and liberal, was completed, intrusted him with the management of a commercial speculation in the East, and thus at once gratified and influenced the passion for visit- ing new and remote reg!'^>?s which had already taken posses- sion of the mind of our tr iveller. Leaving Paris at the age of twenty -two, he visited Hindostan and Persia, where he remain- ed several years, and was appointed merchant to the king. His manly but shrewd character, united with extensive knowl- edge and great sauvity of manners, procured him numerous friends at the court of Ispahan, some of whom filled important offices in the government, and were thus enabled to lay open to him the interior movements of the great political machine 22* 254 SIR JOHN CHAROIN. which he afterwards described with so much vigour and per- spicuity. He accompanied tiie shah on his visits to various portions of his dominions, and in this way was enabled to traverse with pleasure and advantage the wilder and least accessible districts of Persia, such as Muzenderan, Ghilan, and the other provinces bordering on the Caspian Sea. Of this portion of his hfe, however, he did not judge it necessary to give any detailed account ; perhaps because he had after- ward occasion to visit the same scenes, when his mind was riper, his views more enlarged, and his powers of observation and description sharpened and invigorated by experience and habit. Returning to France in 1670, be remained fifteen months in the bosom of his family, and employed this period of tranquili- ty and leisure in the composition of his " History of the Coro- nation of Solyman HI., King of Persia ;" a small work usu- ally appended to his account of his travels. The desire of fame and distinction, however, which in youthful and ardent minds is generally the ruling passion, urged him once more to quit his native country, where, as be himself observes, the religion in which he was educated excluded him from all hope of advancement or honours, in order to revisit those regions of the East where his faith would be no bar to his ambition, and where commerce was not thought to degrade even the majesty of kings. Having collected together the jewels, gems, and curious clocks and watches which he had been commissi(med to pur- chase for the king of Persia, be repaired to Leghorn, where he embarked with bis mercantile companion for Smyrna. Owing to the unskilful ncss of the mariners, the variableness of the winds, and the badness of the weather, this short voyage was not performed in less than three months, during which the passengers endured all the privation and misery which such a voyage could inflict. From Smyrna he proceeded to Con- gtantinople, where, through the aid of M. de Nointel, the am- bassador of France, he was initiated in all the mysteries of diplomacy, which he unveils in his travels with infinite skill and naivete, for the amusement of his readers. In other respects his connexion with the French ambassa- dor was rather prejudicial than useful to him; for M. de Nointel having conducted himself in all his negotiations with the Turks in a puerile and fluctuating manner, passing by turns from extreme haughtiness to extreme cringing and ser- vility, the anger of the Porte was roused and directed against the whole French nation ; and Churdin, when he became de- sirous of departing, was denied a passport. From this diffir SIR JOHN CHARDIN. 255 cult and somewhat dangerous position he was delivered by the ingenuity of a Greek, who contrived to procure' him a passage to Azoph, on the Palus Mseotis, on board of a Turkish vessel then about to set sail with the new commandant and fresh troops which the Porte sent every year to that remote fortress. The Black Sea, which receives its appellation from the gloomy clouds and tempestuous winds which hover over and vex its waters in almost every season of the year, was now to be traversed: and considering the unskilfulness and apathy of Turkish sailors, who creep timidly along the shore, and have little knowledge of the use of the compass, our traveller was not without his apprehensions. After a voyage of eight days, however, they arrived at CufFa, in the Crimea, where, by the help of the Greek friend who had enabled him to laugh at the sultan's beard and embark without a passport, he eluded the exorbitant demands of the custom-house, and transported his merchandise on board another vessel bound for Mingrelia. Setting sail from Caffa, where there was little to be seen but stinking Tartars and caviare, they arrived in twenty-four hours at Touzlah, or the Salt Marshes, a vast sweep of low shore, alternately covered by the waters of the sea, artificially intro- duced, and a white saline crust, looking like a sslieet of snow from a distance. Here upwards of two hundred ships arc an- nually freighted with salt ; and it was for the purpose of taking on board a cargo of this useful merchandise that the vessel in which Chardin and his companion were embarked now touch- ed at the place. On landing, the village was found to consist often or twelve houses, with a small mosque, and a consider- able number of felt-covered tents, which served for stables, kitchens, and dormitories for the slaves. Salt was by no means the only article of commerce obtained at this place. Every morning fires were observed lighted along the shore, as signals that the brigands of the country had laid violent hands upon a number of their fellow creatures, and had them con- veyed tliither, chained together like cattle, for sale. These fires being observed, boats were immediately sent on shore ; and when they returned, crowds of women and children, half- naked, or covered with rags and filth, but resplendeiit with beauty, were hoisted on board, where their wretched apparel was exchanged for clean neat garments, and where, |)erhap8, for thfj first time in their fives they tasted bread. The men and boys were chained two and two every night ; the women, from whom no danger was apprehended, were pcrmitt( d the free use of their limbs. These Circassians did not fetch a great price. A Greek merchant, whose cabin was contiguous to that of Chardin » purehased fbr twelve crowns a woman of 256 SIR JOHN CHARDIN. ti extraordinary beauty, with an infant at the breast. What chief- ly surprised our traveller in the circumstances of this affair was, the coolness and serenity with which these honest people submitted to their fate. Had not the women, much against their will, been compelled to occupy themselves with needle- work, and the men with such little matters as they could per- form on board, they would have been perfectly happy. Idle- ness was their summum bonum; and this the most beautiful among the women knew they were about to enjoy in the ha- rems of Turkey. On arriving at Isgaour, in Mingrelia, the place where the general market of the country is held, Chardin naturally ex- pected to find human dwellings, with provisions, and such other necessaries as in civilized countries are everywhere at- tainable for money. In this hope he went on shore with the Greek merchant, who had hitherto been in a manner his guar- dian angel ; but on entering the place, they indeed found two long rows of huts formed of the branches of trees, where mer- chandise and provisions had once been exposed for sale, but now empty and deserted. In the vicinity of the place neither house nor habitation appeared as far as the eye could reach. Two or three peasants, however, who flitted about like spectres among the deserted huts, engaged to bring on the morrow a quantity of that species of grain called gom^ which is bruised, boiled, and eaten instead of bread, together with wine and other provisions. There being no alternative, they were com- pelled to rely on the promises of these men, as they wore near- ly in want of every necessary of life ; but their presents failing them, it became necessary to dissemble with his servants, who already began to murmur aloud and curse the persons by whose advice he had taken the route of the Black Sea, relying for the future upon the bounty of Providence. The reason why the market of Isgaour was thus deserted was, that the Abcas, a neighbouring people of savage character and barba- rous manners, having made an irruption into the country, were now ravaging it with fire and sword, while the peasantry and their lords were flying before them in dismay, or plunging for refuge into the deepest recesses of their forests. Ten days after thf^ir arrival these savages passed along the shore in search of plunder; and finding none in this celebrated market, set the huts on fire and reduced them to ashes. In this dilemma, Chardin had much difficulty in determining what course to take. He had immediately on landing applied for aid to the Catholic missionaries of Colchis, the chief of whom promised in reply to be with him by a certain day, but failed in liis engagement ; and when after a second application SIR JOHN CHARDIIf. 267 he repaired to ♦be place of rendezvous, it was less with the de- sign of forwarding our traveller's views than of dissuading him from attempting the journey at all. Perceiving, however, that his advice could not be followed, he rendered the travellers every service in his power with alacrity, but without in the least concealing the magnitude of the danger they were about to incur. It was now the beginning of October, and Chardin, irritated at the numerous obstacles and hindrances which had impeded his progress, was so extremely impatient to be in Persia, that no dangers appeared to him so terrible as delay. He had very soon cause to repent his impetuosity. The evils he had hitherto endured dwindled to nothing when compared with those which now rushed upon him like a torrent, and threaten- ed to swallow up in a moment his wealth, his ambitious pro- jects, and his life. Nevertheless, with that unshrinking courage which his total ignorance of the future and the pressure of present evils bestows upon man, he hastened to put his foot upon the shores of Mingrelia ; and embarking with all his merchandise on board the felucca in which tlie monk had arrived, set sail for Anarghia, where they next day arrived. Here his followers made themselves ample amends for the scarcity they had endured at Isgaour ; for poultry, wild pige- ons, pork, goats' flesh, wine, and other provisions were abun- dant and cheap. After remaining nine days at Anarghia, they departed on the 14th, two hours before day, and having sailed about six miles up the river, disemborked their merchandize and provisions, with which they loaded eight small vehicles, and proceeded on their journey by land. The report that a party of Europeans were passing with incalculable riches through the country was soon spread ; and as few rich travellers ever traversed Mingre- lia, this rumour immediately inflamed to the highest degreulalion flowed forth and overspread the world with a flood of life, he felt the cares, solicitudes, and sorrows which for many months had i'vd, as it \v<'re, upon his heart, take wing, and a healing and invigorating inlkicncc spread an exquisite calm over his sensations. This singular tranquillity, which he experienced on first reaching these loftv regions, still continued as he advanced, notwithstanding the rain, the hail, and the snow which were poured on him by the tempest as he passed ; and in such a frame of mind he attain- ed the opposite side of the mountain, upon whose folding slopes he beheld numerous villages, castles, and churches, picturesquely scattered about, and at length descended into a broad and beautiful valley, cultivated with the greatest care, and fertihzcd by the waters of the Kur. Arriving witliout accident or adventure at Akalzike', and remaining there four days to repose himself, he departed for Georgia. The route now presented nothing extraordinary. A castle or a ruin, picturesquely perched upon the crest of a rocky eminence, a cliurch, or a village, or a forest — such were the objects which met the eye. He at length reached the Capuchin convent in the vicinity of (iory, whence, after ma- ture consultation with the monks, who, for strangers, entered with extraordinary earnestness into his views, he set out, ac- companied by a lay-brother of the order, for Tiflis, partly with the design of demanding aid from the Prince of Georgia, and partly to obtain the advice of the principal missionary respect- ing the steps he ought to take in order to deliver his partner and property from the avaricious hands of the Mingrelians. The opinion of the monks was, that since the Prince of Geor- gia entertained rather loose notions respecting his allegiance to the King of Persia, whose servant Chardin was to be con- sidered, and, like all petty potentates, was possessed by ex- treme cupidity and laxity of principle, there would in all probability be as much danger in being aided by him, as in depending on the uncertain will of fortune and his own pru- ^ if. '■fc.'.- ■. ( '^'* ' SIR JOHN CIIARDIN. 267 dence and ingenuity ; tlint lie ought to return secretly to Min- trrelia ; and that, for the greater chance of success, he sliould talie with him one of the brotherhood, who was deeply versed in the small politics of those countries; and a native depend- ent on the monastery, who had been a thousand times in Min- grelia. With these able coadjutors he returned once more into the country of Media, whence, after incredible difficulties and very considerable danger, he succeeded in rescuing his property. On his return to Titlis he calculated, with the aid of his com- panion, the losses they had sustained during the journey from Constantinople to Georgia, and found that, by great good for- tune, it did not exceed one per cent, upon the merchandize they had succeeded in conveying safe and entire to that city. He now tasted of that delight which springs up in the mind after dangers escaped and diflioulties overcome ; and commenced the pleasing task of studying the manners of a people among whom, however impure and depraved might be their morrds, a stranger had little to fear. The beauty of the women, he found, was so irresistible in Georgia, and their manners so •graceful and bewitching, that it was impossible to behold them without love ; but the depravity of their morals, and the black- ness and perfidy of their souls, exceeded, if possible, the per- fection of their forms, and rendered them as odious to the mind as they were pleasing to the eye. After remaining a short time at Tiflis, and going through the usual routine of giving and receiving presents, &c., he de- parted for Armenia. Being now accompanied by a mehnian- dar, or guest-guard, he proceeded without obstacle or extor- tion; this officer taking upon himself the care of adjusting matters with the custom-houses, and of providing horses, car- riages, and provisions on the way. Though in so low a latitude, the whole face of the country was still covered with snow in March, and it was witli- much difficulty that they pro- ceeded over the narrow pathways made by the few travellers who were compelled to traverse the country at such a season. To guard against the reflection of the sun's rays from the snow, which weakened the sight, and caused a burning heat in the face, our traveller wore a handkerchief of green or black silk tied across the eyes, after the manner of the inhabitants, though this merely diminished, hut could not altogether prevent the evil. Whenever they met any travellers moving in a con- trary direction, they had to dispute who should yield up the narrow path, upon which two horses could not pass each other, and go out into the soft snow, in which the animals instantly sunk up to their bellies ; but in the end every one i>v 266 SIR JOHN ClIAROIN. yielded the preference to the mehmandar. Creeping along in this manner through the cold, they arrived at Eryvan on the 7th of March. Beinjr now in a country where civilization had made some progress, Chardin took lodgings in a caravansary, and was provided abundantly with the necessaries of hfe by the bounty of the governor, who, no doubt, expected that his civilities would be remembered when he should come in the se(|uel to bargain for a portion of the traveller's jewels. In the East it is an established rule that the natives shall always take ad- vantage of a stranger, sometimes by force, at other times by cunning, but invariably in some way or another. In Mingrelia our traveller had to guard against force and violence; here against wheedlinnf, deceit, flattery, double-dealing, hypocrisy, and meanness. In the former case, hovever, being weak, it was necessary to evade or succumb; but in the present, since in- genuity was the weapon on both sides, there were more chances of success, though it often appeared that plain honest good sense is not always a match for practised cunning. In the in- tervals of business the time was passed in parties, dinners, and visits, which at least furnished opportunities of studying the manners of the people. Perceiving that the time of his departure was drawing nigh, the governor came to the point at which he had been steadily aiming all the while, under cover of his hospitality and cares- ses, which were put forward as so many stalking-horses, to en- able him to bring down his game with greater certainty. Send- ing for Chardin to the palace, he proceeded warily and steal- thily to business, occasionally shaking the dust of compliments and flattery in the traveller's eyes as he went along. He first lamented the actual state of Persia, in which, reduced by bad government and the malignant inclemency of the seasons to a state bordering upon famine and anarchy, there was of course little or no demand for expensive articles of luxury; besides, even if public aff'airs had been flourishing, and the royal re- sources abundant, the present king had no taste for jewelry; and that, therefore there was no hope of disposing of costly precious stones at the court of Ispahan. From this prelinf>i- nary discourse, which was meant to diminish in the traveller*8 eyes the value of his merchandise, though in reality the picture was correct, the governor passed at once to the genuine object of his oration, and made an offer to purchase a part of the jewels. His conduct on this occasion was a masterpiece of mercantile skill, and he succeeded, by holding out the hope of more important purchases in the sequel, in getting every tiling that he rcaily intended to buy, at a very cheap rate. 'TaW^i *,r SIR .TOHN CHARDIN. 269 When his object was gained, he closed the negotiation in the coolest manner in the world, by returning the large quantity of jewels which he had caused to be sent to his palace, as if he had intended to bargain for them all ; and the traveller now perceived that the wily Persian bad made a dupe of him. As all manifestations of discontent, however, would have been altogether useless, he affecied to be extremely well pleased at his bad luck, and retired to his caravansary, cursing all the way the talents and aptitude of the governor of Eryvan for business and cheating. On the 8th of April be departed from the capital of Arme- nia, and travelling for several days through level and fertile plains, interspersed with churches and villages, arrived at Nac- chivan, a cit_; formerly celebrated, and of gre^ t^ antiipiity, but now in ruins. From hence he proceeded, etviiiologizing and making researches as he moved along, towards Tabriz, where he arrived on the 17th. At this city, then the second iu Persia in rank, riches, and population, be took up bis quarters at the Capuchin convent, where be was visited by several of the nobles of the place, on account of his jewelry, the fame of which flew before liim on the road, and like a pioneer smoothed and laid level his passage into Persia. In proceeding southward from Tabriz he had to traverse the plains of Aderbijan, the ancient Media, which being covered at this season of the year by tribes of Koords, Saraneshins, and Turcomans, all striking their tents, and putting themselves in motion for their summer emigration to the mountains, could not be crossed by a stran- ger without considerable danger. He was therefore counselled to defer bis departure for a f(!W days, when he would have the advantage of travelling in the conjj)ai)y of a Persian noble- man, whose presence would be a suflicient protection. He adopted this advice, and in less than a week set out under the safeguard of his noble escort, and crossed those rich and beautiful plains, which afford the best pasturage in the world, and where, accordingly, the ancient kings of Media kept their prodigious studs, which sometimes consisted of fifty thousand horses. The ancients relate, that the horses of Nysa, which must be sought for in these plains, were all cream-coloured; but the nobleman who accompanied (Jliardin bad never read or heard of any part of Persia where horses of that colour were produced. Tn his journey through Media he saw on the side of the road circles of huge stones, like those of Stonehenge, and the Dol- mens of Normundv and Brittany, which, according to the trwlitions of the PeiainnH, were placed there by the Kaous, or giants, who formerly held possession of those regions. The «^^ 270 SIR JOHN CIIARDIN. same superstitions, the same fables, the same wild belief in the enormous strength and stature of past generations, prevailed, we see, throughout the world, because the desires, faculties, and passions of the mind are everywhere the same. It was now June, and instead of disputing >vith those they met, the possession of a narrow snow-track, they were com- pelled to travel by night to avoid the scorching heat of the sun. They usually set out about two hours before sunset, and when day had entirely disappeared, the stars, which in the clear blue atmosphere of Persia yielded a strong brilliant light, agreeably supplied its place, and enabled them to proceed from caravan- sary to caravansary with facility. At every step historical associations crowded upon the traveller's mind. The dust which was thrown up into a cloud by the hoof of his camel, and the stones over which he stumbled in the darkness, were the dust and the wrecks of heroes and mighty cities, crumbled by time, and whirled about by the breath of oblivion. Cyrus and Alexander, khalifs, khans, and sultans, had fought, con- quered, or perished on those pluins. Vast cities had risen, flourished, and vanished like a dream. A few days before his arrival at Kom, he passed at a little distance the ruins of Rhe, a city scarcely less VJist in its dimensions, or less magriiticent or populous than Babylon, but now deserted, and become so unhealthy in consequence, that, according to a Persian poet, the very angel of death retired from it on account of tlie bad- ness of the air. On his arrival at Roms, after escaping from the storms of the Black Sea and the Mingrelians, Chardin was nearly killed by the kick of a horse. He escaped, however, and set out two days afterward for Kashan, traversing tine fertile plains, covered with villages. In this city, celebrated for its burning climate and scorpions, he merely remained one day to allow his horses a little repose, and then departed and pushed on to Ispahan, where he arrived on the 23d of June. Chardin was faithful to the Capuchin friars ; for whenever he passed through or visited a city in which they possessed a con- vent, it was the first place to which he repaired, and the last he quitted. On the present occasion he took up his residence, as usual, with these monks, at whose convent he found on his arrival a bag of letters addressed to him from various parts of the world: before he could read the half of which, many of his Persian and Armenian friends, whom he had known dur- ing his former residence, and all the Europeans of the city, came to welcome him on his return to Ispahan. From these he learned that the court, which had undergone innumerable changes during his absence, the greater number of those great »> «i.t 8m JOHN CHARDIN. 271 men who had distinguished themselves, or held any offices of trust under the late king, being either dead or in disgrace, was now in the utmost confusion, the persons who exercised most influence in it being a set of young noblemen, without virtue, talents, or experience. And what was still worse for Chardin, though not for Persia, it was secretly whispered about that Sheikh AH Khan, formerly prime minister, but now in dis- grace, was about to be restored to favour ; in whicli case our traveller anticipated great losses, as this virtuous and inflexible man, whose great talents had always been employed in the service of his country, was an enemy to all lavish expenditure, and regarded jewels and other costly toys as mere dross, un- worthy the attention of a sovereign prince. Chardin perceived, therefore, that he had not a moment to lose, it being of the highest importance that his business M'ith the king should be transacted before Sheikh AH Khan should again be prime vizier; but by whom he was to be introduced at court was the question. The persons to whom he applied in the first instance, at the same time that they willingly con- sented to use their best efforts in his favour, and counselled him not to despair, yet gave so sombre a picture of the state of the court, and threw out so many insinuations, indicating their belief that the future would be still more unpropitious than the present, that they succeeded in casting a damp over his energies, and in dissipating, or at least blighting his hopes. Nevertheless, something was to be done, and that quickly ; and he determined, that what ever might be the result, he would at all events not fail through inattention or indolence. While Chardin was hibsuring to put those springs in niotion, the harmonious action of which was to produce the fulfilment of his hopes. Sheikh Ali Khan suddenly entered into oflice. This event was brought about in a strange manner. The king, during one of those violent tits of intoxication to which he was liable, and during which he acted more like a wild beast than a man, had commanded the right hand of a musi- cian who was playing before him to be struck off", and imme- diately fell asleep. The person to whom the barbarous order was given, imagining that all recollection of the matter would pass away with the fumes of sleep,, ventured to disobey ; but the king awaking,and finding the musician, whom he expected to find mutilated and bleeding, still touching tlu- instrument, became so enraged, that he gave orders for inflicting the same punishment upon the disobedient favourite and the musician ; and finding that those around him still hesitated to execute his brutal commands, his madness rose to so ungovernable a pitch that he would probably have had the amis and legs of #' 272 SIR JOHN CHARDIN. Ill all the court cut off, had not Sheikh Ali Khan, who fortunately happened to be present, thrown himself at his feet, and im- plored him to pardon the offendeis. The tyrant, now begin- ning to cool a little, replied, "You are a bold man, to expect that I shall grant your request, while you constantly refuse to resume, at my most earnest entreaties, the office of prime min- ister !" " Sire," replied Ali, " 1 um your slave, and will do whatever your majesty shall command." The king was paci- lied, the culprits pardoned, and next morning Sheikh Ali Khan rcassumod the govenmient of Persia. The event dreaded by our traveller had now arrived, and therefore the as^pcct of allairs was changed. Nevertheless, not many days afn^r this event, he received an intinjation from one of his court friends, that is, persons purchased over by presents, tliat the iia/ir, or eliicf intcndant of the king's lioiisc- liold, having been informed of Ills arrival, was desirous of see- ing him, and had warmly cxpre^ised his inclination to serve him with the shah. Chardin, who understood from what motives courtiers usually perform services, laid but small stress upon his promises, but still hastened to present himself i»t his levee, with a list of all the articles of jewelry he had hronnlit with liim from Euro|)e, which the nazir immediately ordered to be sent to him for the inspection of the king. A few days afterAvard he was introduced to the terrible grand vizier, Slieikli Ali Khan himself, who, from the mild and polished manner in which he received our traveller, aj)peared extremely different from the portraits which the courtiers and common fame had drawn of him. Ilis whole fortune being now at stake, and depending in a great measure upon the disposition of the nazir and the con- duct of the shah, Chardin was unavoidably agitated by very painful and powerful feelings, when he was suddenly sum- moned to repair to the intendant's palace, where the principal jewellers of the city, Mohammedan, Armenian, and Hindoo, had been assendded to pronounct! u])on the real value of the various articles he had offered to the king. Hv had not long entered before the nazir ordered lh(> whole of his jewels to be brought forth, those which his majesty intended to pureliasc being set apart in a large golden bowl of Chinese worknmn- ship. Chardin, observing that notwithstanding the wliole had been ])nrohasedor made by order of the late king, not afonrtii part had been selected Ity his present majesty, felt as if he had been stricken by a thunderbolt, and ])eeame pale and rooted, as •;. v/ere to the spot. The nazir, though a selfish and rii))tt- cic us man, was touched by his appearance, and leaning bis head towards him, observed, in a low voice, "You are vexed ■»^'0' SIR JOHN CHARDIN. ^n that the king should have selected so small a portion of youi' jewels. I protest to you that I have taken more pains than I ought to induce him to purchase the whole, or at least the half of then) ; but I have not been able to succeed, because the larger articles, such as the sabre, the poniard, and the mirror, are not made in the fashion which prevails in this country. But keep up your spirits ; you will still dispose of them, if it please God." The traveller, who felt doubly vexed that his chagrin had been perceived, made an effort to recover his composure, but could not so completely succeed but that the shadow, as it were, of his emotion still remained upon his countenance. However, pleased or displeased, it was necessary to proceed to business. The shah's principal jeweller now placed before liim the golden bowl containing the articles selected by his majesty, and beginning with the smaller pieces, asked the price of them in a whisper ; and then caused them to be esti- mated by the other jewellers present, beginning with the Mohammedans, and then passing on to the Armenians and Hindoos. The merchants of Persia, when conducting any bargain before company, never make use of any words in stating the price to each other ; they make themselves under- stood with their fingers, their hands meeting under a corner of their robe, or a thick handkerchief, so that their movements may be concealed. To close the hand of the person with whom business is thus transacted means a thousand; to take one finger of the open hand, a hundred; to bend the finger in tlie niiddle,^?^; and so on. This mode of bargaining is in use throughout the East, and more particularly in India, where no other is employed. The value of the jewels being thus estimated, the appraisers were dismissed, and the nazir, coming to treat tete-a-tete with Cliardin, succeeded so completely in throwing a mist over his imagination, by pretending to take a deep interest in his welfare, that he drew him into a snare, and in the course of the negotiation, which lasted long, and was conducted with infinite cunning on the part of the Persian, caused him to lose a large ntion of the fruits of his courage and enterprise. Other negotiations with various individuals followed, and in the end Chardin succeeded in disposing of the whole of his j<'>vels. i Jiese transactions closed Avith the year 1G73. In the be- T;lnning of the following year, which was pushed in a devotional manner nmong the Protestants of Ispahan, the traveller began to feel hjs locomotive propensities revive ; and an ambassador from Balkh, then in the capital, happening to pay him a visit, 24 274 9IR JOHN CIIARDIX. I SO wrought upon his imagination by his description of his wild country, and gave him so many pressing invitations to accom- pany him on his return, that, had it not been for the counter- persuasion of friends, Chardin would undoubtedly have ex- tended his travels to Tartary. This idea being relinquished, however, he departed for the shores of the Persian Gulf, a journey of some kind or other being necessary to keep up the activity of both body and mind. He accordingly departed from Ispahan in the beginning of February, all the Europeans in the city accompanying him as far as Bagh Koolloo, where they ate a farewell dinner together. He then proceeded on his journey, and in clrvcn days arrived at the ruins of Persepolis, which he had twice before visited, in order once more to compare his ideas with the realities, and complete his description of this celebrated spot. These mag- nificent ruins are situated in one of the finest plains in tiif world ; and as you enter this plain from the north through narrow gayas or between conical hills of vast height and singu- lar shape, you behold them standing in front of a lofty ridge of mountains, which sweep round in the form of a half-moon, flanking them on both sides with its mighty horns. On two of these lofty eminences which protected the approaches to the city, and which, when Persepolis was in all its glory, so long resisted the fierce, impatient attacks of Alexander, the ruins of ancient forts still subsisted when Chardin was there ; but, after having travelled so far, principally for the purpose of examin- ing the ruins scattered around, he found the hills too steep and lofty, and refused to ascend them ! Having occupied several days in contemplating the enor- mous ruins of temples and palaces existing on the plain, our traveller descended into what is called the Subterranean Tem- ple ; that is, a labyrinth of canals or passages, hewn out in the solid rock, turning, winding, and crossing each other in a thousand places, and extending to an unknown distance be- neath the bases of the mountains. The entrances and the exits of these dismal vaults are unknown ; but travellers and other curious persons find their way in through rents made by time or by earthquakes in the rock. Lighted candles, which burned with difficulty in the heavy, humid air, were placed at the distance of every fifty yards, as Chardin and his compan- ions advanced, particularly at those points where numerous passages met, and where, should a wrong path be taken, they might have lost themselves for ever. Here and there they ob- ierved heaps of bones or horns of animals ; the damp trickled down the sides of the rocks ; the bottom of the passages was moist and cold ; respiration ^rew more and more di:fficult SIR JOHN CHARDIX. 276 every step ; they became giddy ; an unaccountable horror seized upon their minds; the attendant first, and then the traveller himself, experienced a kind of panic terror; and fear- ing that, sliould they much longer continue to advance, they might never be able to return, thoy hastened back towards the fissures through which they had entered ; and without having discovered any thing but vaults which appeared to have no end, they emerged into dayhght, like ^ncas and his compan- ion from the moutii of hell. Departing from the ruins of Pcrse])olis on the 19th of Feb- nnry, he next day arrived at Shiraz, where he amused himself for three days in contemplating the waters of the Rokncbad and the bowers of Mosellay. In proceeding from this city to IJiUuler-Ahassi, on the Persian Gulf, he had to pass over Mount Jarron by the most difficult and dangerous road in all Persia. At every step the travellers found themselves sus- pended, as it were, over tremendous precipices, divided from the abyss by a low wall of loose stones, which every moment seemed ready to roll of their own accord into the depths below. The narrow road was blocked up at short intervals by large fragments of rock, between which it was necessary to squeeze tlietnselves with much pains and caution. However, they passed the mountain without accident, and on the 12th of March arrived at Bander-Abassi. This celebrated port, from which insufferable heat and a pestilential atmosphere banish the whole population during summer, is at all times excessively insalubrious, all strangers who settle there dying in the course of a few years, and the inhabitants themselves being already old at thirty. The few persons who remain to keep guard over the city during sum- mer, at the risk of their lives, are relieved every ten days ; during which they suffer sufficiently from the heat, the deluges of rain, and the black and furious tempests which plough up tlic waters of the gulf, and blow with irresistible fury along the coast. Though the eve of the season of death was drawing near, Chardin found the inhabitants of Bander in a gay humour, feasting, drinking, and elevating their sentiments and re- joicing their hearts with the heroic songs of Firdoosi. Into these amusements our traveller entered with all his heart — the time flew by rapidly — the advent of fever and death was come — and the ship which he expected from Surat had not yet arrived. Talents and experience are not always accom- panied by prudence. Chardin saw the whole population de- serting the city; yet he lingered, detained by the auri sacra 276 SIR JOHN CIIARDIN. fames,* until fur in the month of May, and until, in fact, tii« circds of u malignant fever hud been sown in his constitutiun. Thoae uneosy st'usutions which urc f^cncruliy the forcruiinem of sickness and death, united with the representations of tlio physicians, at len<;th induced him to (piit the place, his attend- ants bein^ already ill; but he had not proceeded many lea^nK'.s before a f^iddiness in the head and jfcntMul debility of hodv informed him that he had remained somewhat too lonir ut Bander. Arriving? on the iJ4lh of May at Tan<>iicdelan,a place where there was not a sinuout!;h, to all appearance, to kill or cure a refrinK^nt of patients. " For whom," uupiired Cliardin, " are all tln)S(! nudicincs ■?" "For you," replied the vouii^ man; "these are what the hakim has ordered you to tuke this mornin^ 23 ^kJT MAIN STMIT WIUTIII,N.Y. I4SM (716)172-4903 '4^ 280 SIR JOHN CHARDIN. with a more exalted enthusiasm, and acquired a more ex- tensive acquaintance with the material phenomena of nature * Pietro della Valle amuses the reader by wilder and more romantic adventures ; but for good sense, acuteness of ob- servation, suavity of manner, and scrupulous adherence to truth, no traveller, whether ancient or modern, is superior to Chardin. .* t <*-s*< PIETRO DELLA VALLE. PiETRo DELLA Yalle, "the most romantic in his adTen* tures of all true travellers," was descended from an ancient, and noble family, and born at Rome on the 11th of April, 1586. When his education, which appears to have been care- fully conducted and liberal, was completed, he devoted him- self, with that passionate ardour which characterized all the actions of his life, to the study of literature, and particularly poetry; but the effervescence of his animal spirits requiring some other vent« he shortly afterward exchanged the closet for the camp, in the hope that the quarrel between the pope and the Venetians, and the troubles which ensued upon the death of Henry IV. of France, would afford him some oppor- tunity of distinguishing himself. His expectation being dis- appointed, however, he in 161 1 embarked on board the Spanish fleet, then about to make a descent on the coast of Barbary ; but nothing beyond n few skirmishes taking place, he again beheld his desire of glory frustrated, and returned to Rome. Here vexations of another kind awaited him. Relinquish- ing the services of Fame for that of an earthly mistress, he found himself no less unsuccessful, the lady preferring some illustrious unknown, whose name, like her own, is now over- whelmed with *'the husks and formless ruin of oblivion." Pietro, however, severely felt the sting of such a rejection ; and in the gloomy meditations which it gave birth to, con- ceived a plan which, as he foresaw, fulfilled his most ambi- tious wishes, and attached an imperishable reputation to his name. The idea was no sooner conceived than he proceeded to put it in execution, and taking leave of his friends and of Rome, repaired to Naples, in order to consult with his friend, Mario Schipano, a physician of that city, distinguished for his oriental learning and abilities, concerning the best means of conducting his hazardous enterprise. Fortunately he pos- sessed sufficient wealth to spurn the counsel of sloth and timidity, which, when any act of daring is proposed, are 282 PIETBO DELLA VALLE. alwajs at hand, disguised as prudence and good sense, to cast a damp upon the springs of energy, or to travesty and misrepresent the purposes of the bold. Pietro, however, was not to be intimidated. The wonders and glories of the East were for ever present to his imagination, and having heard mass, and been solemnly clothed by the priest with the habit of a pilgrim, he proceeded to Venice in order to embark for Constantinople. The ship in which he sailed left the port on the 6th of June, 1614. No event of pecuHar interest occurred during the voyage, which, lying along the romantic shores and beautiful islands of Greece, merely served to nourish and strengthen Pietro's enthusiasm. On drawing near the Dar- danelles the sight of the coast of Troy, with its uncertain ruins and heroic tombs, over which poetry has spread an atmosphere brighter than any thing belonging to mere physical nature, awoke all the bright dreams of boyhood, and hurrying on shore, his heart overflowing with rapture, he kissed the earth from which, according to tradition, the Roman race ;>riginalljr sprung. From the Troad to Constantinople the road lies over a tract hallowed by the footsteps of a ntiquity, and at every step Pietro felt his imagination excited by some memorial of the great of other days. On arriving at the Ottoman capital, where he purposed making a long stay, one of his first cares was to ac- quire a competent knowledge of the language of the country, which he did as much for the vanity, as he himself acknow- ledges, of exhibitiii gling ; the merchants, congratulating themselves that they had already succeeded in eluding the duties ahnost to the extent of their desires, had fallen into the souad sleep which attends oa a clear conscience ; and Pietro, his domestics, and the other inmates of the caravan had followed their example. In the dead of the night the camp was entered by stealth, the tents rummaged, and considerable booty carried off. The banditti, entering Pietro*s tent, and finding all asleep, opened the trunk in which were all the manuscripts, designs, and plans he had made during his travels, carefully packed up, as if for the convenience of robbers, in a small portable cscrutoire ; but by an instinct which was no less fortunate for them than for the traveller and posterity, since such spoil could have been of no value to them, they rejected the escrutoire, and selected all our traveller's fine linen, the very articles in which he hoped to have captivated the beauty whose eulogies had so highly in- flamed his imagination. A Venetian, who happened to be in the camp, had his arqucbuse stolen from under his head, and this little incident, as it tended to show that the robbers had made still more free with others than with him, somewhat con* soled Pietro for the loss of his linen. As the traveller does not himself attach any suspicion to the military gentlemen of the custom-house, it might, perhaps, be uncharitable to deposite the burden of this theft upon their shoulders ; but in examining all the circumstances of the transaction, I confess the idea that their ingenuity was concerned did present itself to me. Next morning the beams of the rising sun, gleaming upon a thousand slender minarets and lutty-swclling domes surmount- ed by gilded crescents, discovered to him the ancient city of the cnlifs stretching away right and left to a vast distance over the plain, while the Tigris, like a huge serpent, rolled along, cutting the city into two parts, and losing itself among the sombre buildings which seemed to tremble over its waters. The camels were once more loaded, and the caravan, stretch- ing itself out into one long, narrow column, toiled along over the plain, and soon entered the dusty, winding streets of Bag- dad. Here Pietro, whose coming had been announced the evening before by his young commercial companion, was met by the father of the Assyrian beauty, a fine patriarchal-looking old man, who entreated him to be his guest during his stay in Mesopotamia. This favour Pietro declined, but at the same time he eagerly accepted of the permission to vigit at his house ; 26 ' ZOO PIETRO DELLA TALLX. nnd was no sooner completely established in his own dvrellinz than he fully availed himself of this permission. The family to which he became thus suddenly known was originally of Mardin, but about fourteen years previously had been driven from thence by the Kurds, who sacked and plun- dered the city, and reduced such of the inhabitants as they could capture to slavery. They were Christians of the Nes- torian sect; but Delia Valle, who was a bigot in his way, seems to have regarded them as aliens from the church of Christ. However, this circumstance did not prevent the image of Sitti Maani, the eldest of the old man's daughters, and the beauty of whom he had heard so glowing a description in the desert, from finding its way into his heart, though the idea of marrying having occurred to him at Aleppo, he had written home to his relations to provide him with a suitable wife against his return to Italy. Maani was now in her eighteenth year. Her mind had been as highly cultivated as the circum- stances of the times and the country would allow ; and her understanding enabled her to turn all her accomplishments to advantage. In person, she was a perfect oriental beauty; dark, even in the eyes of an Italian, with hair nearly black, and eyes of the same colour, shaded by lashes of unusual length, she possessed something of an imperial air. Pietro was completely smitten, and for the present every image but that of Maani seemed to be obliterated from his mind. His knowledge of the Turkish language was now of the greatest service to him ; for, possessing but a very few words of Arabic, this was the only medium by which he could make known the colour of his thoughts either to his mistress or her mother. His passion, however, supplied him with eloquence, and by dint of vehement protestations, in this instance the off- spring of genuine affection, he at length succeeded in his en- terprise, and Maani became his wife. But in the midst of these transactions, when it most imported him to remain at Bagdad, an event occurred in his own house which not only exposed him to the risk of being driven with disgrace from the city, but extremely endangered his life and that of all those who were connected with him. His secretary and valet having for some time entertained a grudge against each other, tM former, one day seizing the khanjar, or dagger, of Pietm, stabbed his adversary to the heart, and the poor fellow dropped down dead in the arms of his master. The murderer fled. M^hat course to pursue under such circumstances it was diffi- cult to determine. Should the event come to the knowledge 6f the pasha, both master and servants might, perhaps, be V tfaou|^t equally guilty, and be impaled alive; or, if matters riETRO DCLLA VALLB. 287 were not pushed to such extremities, it might at least be pre- tended that the deceased was the real owner of whatever property they possessed, in order to confiscate the whole for the benefit of the state. As neither of these results was de- sirable, the safest course appeared to be to prevent, if possible, the knowledge of the tragedy from transpiring; a task of some difficulty, as all the domestics of the household were acquaint- ed with what had passed. The only individual with whom Pietro could safely consult upon this occasion (for he was un- willing to disclose so horrible a transaction to Maani's rela- tions) was a Maltese renegade, a man of some consideration iu the city; and for him, therefore, he immediately despatched a messenger. This man, when he had heord what had happen- ed, was of opinion that the body should be interred in a corner of the house ; but Pietro, who had no desire that so bloody a memorial of the Italian temperament should remain in his im- mediate neighbourhood, and moreover considered it unsafe, thought it would be much better at the bottom of the Tigris. The Maltese, mo^t fortunately, possessed a house and garden on the edge of the river, and thither the body, packed up care- fully in a chest, was quickly conveyed, though there was much difficulty in preventing the blood from oozing out, and betray- ing to its bearers the nature of their burden. When it was dark the chest was put on board a boat, and, dropping down the river, the renegade and two of his soldiers cautiously lower- ed it into the wa^er ; and thus no material proof of the murder remained. The assassin, who had taken refuge at the house of the Maltese, was enabled to return to Italy ; and the event, strange to say, was kept secret, though so many persons were [mvy to it. When this danger was over, and the beautiful Maani irre- vocably his, Pietro began once more to feel the passion of the traveller revive, and commenced those Uttle excursions through Mesopotamia which afterward enabled Gibbon to pro- nounce him tiie person who had best observed that province. His first visit, as might be expected, was to the ruins of Baby- lon. The party with which he lefl Bagdad consisted of Maani, a Venetian, a Dutch painter, Ibrahim a native of Aleppo, and twro Turkish soldiers. For the first time since the commence- ment of his travels, Pietro now selected the longest and least dangerous road, taking care, moreover, to keep as near as possible to the farms and villages, in order, in case of necessi- ty, to derive provisions and succour from their inhabitants. Maani, who appears to have had a dash of Kurdish blood in her, rode astride lil(e a man, and kept her saddle as firmly as any son of the desert could have done ; and Pietro oonstantly. V, r^ ^ 388 PIETRO DRLLA VALLB. moved along by her side. When they had performed a con- siderable portion of their journey, and, rejoicing in their good fortune, were already drawing near Babylon, eight or ten horsemen armed with muskets and bows and arrows suddenly appeared in the distance, making towards them with all speed. Pietro imagined that the day for trying his courage was now come ; and he and his companions, having cocked their pieces and prepared to offer a desperate resistance, pushed on towards the enemy. However, their chivnlric spirit was not doomed to be here put to the test ; for, upon drawing near, the horse- men were found to belong to Bagdad, and the adventure con- cluded in civility and mutual congratulations. Having carefully examined the ruins of Babylon, the city of Hillah, and the other celebrated spots in that neighbourhood, the party returned to Bagdad, from whence he again departed in a few days for Modain, the site of the ancient Ctesiphon, near which he had the satisfaction of observing the interior of an Arab encampment. His curiosity respecting Mesopotamia was now satisfied; and as every day's residence among the Ottomans only seem- ed more and more to inflame his hatred of that brutal race, he as much as possible hastened his departure from Bagdad, having now conceived the design of serving as a volunteer in '* armies of Persia, at that period at war with Turkey, and of 1 wreaking his vengeance upon the Osmanlees for the tjiannythey exercised on oil Christians within their power. Notwithstanding that war between the two countries had long been declared, the Pasha of Bagdad and the Persian authori- ties on the frontier continued openly to permit the passage of caravans ; and thus, were he once safe out of Bagdad with his wife and treasures, there would be no difficulty in entering Persia. To effect this purpose he entered into an arrange- ment with a Persian muleteer, who was directed to obtain from the Pasha a passport for himself and followers, with a charosh to conduct them to the extremity of the Turkish do- minions. This being done, the Persian, according to agree- ment, left the city, and encamped at a short distance from the walls, where, as is the custom, he was visited by the officers of the custom-house ; after which, Pietro caused the various individuals of his own small party to issue forth by various streets into the plain, while he himself, dressed as he used to be when riding out for amusement on the banks of the Tigris, quitted the town after sunset, and gained the place of encamp- ment in safety. When the night had now completely descended upon the earth, and, aU around was still, the little caravan put itself in '■^ PIETRO DELLA TALLE. 289 motion ; and being mounted, some on good sturdy mules, and others on the horses of the country, they advanced at a rapid rate, fearing all the way that the pasha might repent of his civility towards the Persian, and send an order to bring them back to the city. By break, of day they arrived on the hanks o( the Diala, a river which discharges itself into the Tigris ; and here, in spite of their impatience, they were detained till noon, there being but one boat at the ferry. In six days they reached the southern branches of the mountains of Kurdistan, und found themselves suddenly in the midst of that wild and hardy race, which, from the remotest ages, has maintained possession of these inexpugnable fastnesses, which harrassed the ten thousand in their retreat, and still enact a conspicuous part in all the border wars between the Persians and Turks. Living for the most part in a dangerous independence, fiercely spurning the yoke of its powerful neighbours, though continu- ally embroiled in their interminable quarrels, speaking a dis- tinct language, and having a peculiar system of manners, which does not greatly differ from that of the feudal times, they may justly be regarded as one of the most extraordinary races of the Asiatic continent. Some of them, spellbound by the allurements of wealth and ease, have erected cities and towns, and addicted themselves to agriculture ond the gainful arts. Others, preferring that entire liberty which of all earthly blessings is the greatest in the estimation of ardent and haughty minds, and regarding luxury as a species of Circean cup, in its effects debasing and destructive, covet no wealth but their herds and flocks, around which they erect no fortifica- tions but their swords. These are attracted hither and thither over the wilds by the richness of the pasturage, and dwell in tents. In Kurdistan, as elsewhere, the winning manners of Delia Vallc procured him a hospitable reception. The presence of Maaiii, too, whose youth and beauty served as an inviolable wall of protection among brave men, increased his claims to their hospitality; so that these savage mountaineers, upon whom the majority of travellers concur in heaping the most angry maledictions, obtained from the warm-hearted, grateful Pietro the character of a kind and gende people. On the 20th of January, 1617, he quitted Kurdistan, and entered Persia. The change was striking. A purer atmosphere, a more pro- ductive and better-cultivated soil, and a far more dense popu- lation than in Turkey, caused him, from the suddenness of the transition, somewhat to exaggerate, perhaps, the advantages of this country. It is certain that the eyes of the traveller, like the fabled gems of antiquity, carry about the light by which he 25* PIETRO .>ELI.A TALLS. riewB the objects which come before him ; and that the condi- tion of this light is greatly affected by the state of his animnl •pirits. Pietro was now in that tranquil and serene mode of being consequent upon that enjoyment which conscience ap- proves ; and having passed from a place where dangers, reol or imaginary, surrounded him, into a country where he at least anticipated safety, if not distinction, it was natural that his fancy should paint the landscape with delusive colours. Besides, many real advantages existed ; tents were no lonser necessary, there being at every halting-place u spacious cara- vansary, where the traveller could obtain gratis lodgings for himself and attendants, and shelter for his beasts and baggage. Fruits, likewise, such as pomegranates, apples, and grapes, abounded, though the earth was still deeply covered with snow. If we add to this that the Persians are a people who pique themselves upon their urbanity, and, whatever may he the basis of their character, with which the passing traveller has little to do, really conduct themselves politely towards strangers, it will not appear very surprising that Delia Valle, who had just escaped from the boorish Ottomans, should have been charmed with Persia. Arriving at Ispahan, at that period the capital of the empire, that is, the habitual place of residence of the shah, his first care, of course, was to taste a little repose ; after which, he re- sumed his usual custom of strolling about the city and its en- virons, observing the manners, and sketching whatever was curious in costume and scenery. Here he remained for several months ; but growing tired, as usual, of calm inactivity, the more particularly as the court was absent, he now prepared to present himself before the shah, then in Mazenderan. Ac- cordingly, having provided a splendid litter for his wife and her sister, who, like genuine amazons, determined to accom- pany him to the wars should he eventually take up arms in the service of Persia, and provided every other necessary for the journey, he quitted Ispahan, and proceeded northward towards the shores of the Caspian Sea. The journey was performed in the most agreeable manner imaginable. When- ever they came up to a pleasant grove, a shady fountain, or any romantic spot where the greensward was sprinkled with flowers or commanded a beautiful prospect, the whole party made a halt; and the ladies, descending from their litter, which was borne by two camels, and Pietro from his barb, they sat down like luxurious gipsies to their breakfast or dinner, while the nightingales in the dusky recesites of the groves served them instead of a musician. vr* i. ■» f- PISTRO DELLA VALLE. 201 Proceeding slowly, on account of his harem, as he terms it, they arrived in seven days at Cashan, where the imprudence of Bfaani nearly involved him in a very serious affair. Being insulted on her way to the bezesteiii by an officer, she gave the signal to her attendants to chastise the drunkard, and, n battle ensuing, the unhappy man lost his life. When the news was brought to Pietro he was considerably alarmed ; but on pro- ceeding to the house of the principal magistrate, he very for- tunately found that the affair had been properly represented to him, and that his people were not considered to have exceeded their duty. His wife, not reflecting that her masculine habits and fiery temperament were quite sufficient to account for the circumstance, now began to torment both herself and her hus- band because she had not yet become a mother; and supposing that in such cases wine was a sovereign remedy, she endeav- oured to prevail upon Pietro, who was a water-drinker, to have recourse to a more generous beverage, offering to join with him, if he would comply, in the worship of Bacchus. Our traveller, who had already, as he candidly informs us, a small family in Itu!/, could not be brought to believe that the fault laj in his sober potations, and firmly resisted the temptations of his wif^'. With friendly arguments upon this and other topics they beguiled the length of the way, and at length arri- ved at Mazcnderan, though Maani^s passion for horsemanship more than once put her neck in jeopardy on the rond. The scene which now presented itself was extremely diffcrfent from that through which they had hitherto generally passed. In- stead of the treeless plains or unfertile deserts which they had traversed in the northern parts of Irak, they saw before them a country strongly resembhng Europe ; mountains, deep well- wooded valleys, or rich green plains rapidly alternating with each other, and the whole, watered by abundant streams and fountains, refreshed and delighted the eye ; and he was as yet unconscious of the insalubrity of the atmosphere. Pietro greatly admired the beauty and graceful figures of the women of this province, — a fact which makes strongly against the idea of its being unhealthy ; for it may generally be infer- red, that wherever the women are handsome the air is good. Here and there they observed, as they moved along, the ruins of castles and fortresses on the acclivities and projections of the mountains, which had formerly served as retreats to nn- merous chiefs who had there aimed at independence. A grotto, which they discovered in a nearly inaccessible position in the face of a mountain, was pointed out to them as the resi- dence of a virgin of gigantic stature, who, without associates •r followers, like the virago who obstructed the passage of *:** 293 PIETRO DELLA VALLE. Theseus from Troezene to Athens, formerly ravaged and de- populated that part of the country. This and similar legends of giantc, which resemble those which prevail among all rude nations, were related to our traveller, who rejected them with disdain as utterly fabulous and contemptible, though not much more so, perhaps, than some which, as a true son of the Ro- man church, he no doubt held in reverence. At length, after considerable fatigue, they arrived at Ferha- bud, a small port built by the Shah Abbas on the Caspian Sea. Here the governor of the city, when informed of his arrival, assigned him a house in the eastern quarter of the city, the rooms of which, says Pietro, were so low, that although by no means a tall man, he could touch the ceihng with his hand. If the house, however, reminded him of the huts erected by Romulus on the Capitoline, the garden, on the other hand, was delightful, being a large space of ground thickly planted with white mulberry-trees, and lying close '^pon the bank of the river. Here he passed the greater portion of his time with Actius Sincerus, or Marcus Aurelius, or Ferrari's Geographi- cal Epitome in his hand, now offering sacrifices to the Muses, and now running over with his eye the various countries and provinces which he was proud to have travelled over. One of his favourite occupations was the putting of his own adven- tures into verse, under a feigned name. This he did in that kind of rhyme which Dante's example had made respectable, but not popular, in Italy ; and as he was not of the humour tu hide his talent under a bushel, his brain was no sooner dehver- ed of this conceit than he despatched it to Rome for the amuse- ment of his friends. Being now placed upon the margin of the Caspian, h" very naturally desired to examine the appearance of its shores and waters ; but embarking for this purpose in a fishing-boat with Maani, who, having passed her life in Mesopotamia, had never before seen the sea, her sickness and the fears produced in her mind by the tossing and rolling of the bark among the waves quickly put an erul to the voyage. He ascertained, however, from the pilots of the coast, that the waters of this sea were not deep ; immense banks of sand and mud, borne down into this vast bafin by the numerous rivers which discharge themselves into it, being met with on all sides ; though it is probable, that had they ventured far from shore they would have found the case diflerent. Fish of many kinds were plentiful; but owing, perhaps, to the fat and slimy nature of the bottom, they were all large, gross, and insipid. The shuh was just then at Asshrnff, a new city which he had.Qaused to be erected, and was then enlarging, about sii PIETRO DELLA VALLB. 293 parasangs, or leagues, to the east of Ferhabad. Pietro, anx- ious to be introduced to thj monarch, soon after his arrival wrote letters to the principal minister, which, together with others from the vicar-generul of the Carmelite monks at Ispa- han, he despatched by two of his domestics ; and the minis- ters, according to his desire, informed the shah of his presence at Ferhabad. Abbas, who apparently had no desire that he should witness the state of things at Asshraif, not as yet com- prehending either his character or his motives, observed, that the roads being extremely bad, the traveller had better remain at Ferhabad, whither he himself was about to proceed on horse- back in a day or two. Pietro, whose vanity prevented his perceiving the shah's motives, supposed in good earnest that Abbas was chary of his guest's ease ; and, to crown the ab- surdity, swallowed another monstrous fiction invented by the courtiers, who, as Hajji Baba would say, were all the while laughing at his beard, — namely, that the monarch was so over- joyed at his arrival, that, had he not been annoyed by the number of soldiers who followed him against his will, he would oezt morning have ridden to Ferhabad to bid him welcome ! However, when he actually arrived in that city, he did not, as our worthy pilgrim expected, immediately admit him to an audience. In the mean while an agent from the Cossacks in- habiting the north-eastern shores of the Black Sea arrived, and Delia Vnlle who neglected no occasion of forwarding his own views, in the shaping of which he exhibited remarkable skill, at once connected himself with this stranger, whom he enga- ged to aid and assist by every means in his power, receiving from the barbarian the same assurances in return. The Cos- sack had come to tender the shah his nation's services against the Turks ; notwithstanding which, the business of his pre- sentation had been negligently or purposely delayed, probably that he might understand, when his proposal should be after- ward received, that, although the aid he promised was accept- able, it was by no means necessary, not so considered. At length the long-anticipated audience arrived, and Delia Vallc, when presented, was well received by the shall ; who, not being accustomed, however, to the crusading spirit or the romance of chivalry, could not very readily believe that the real motives which urged him to join the Persian armies were precisely those which he professed. Nevertheless, his offers of service were accepted, and the provisions which he had already received rendered permanent. He was, moreover, sumptuously entertained at the royal table, and had frequently the honour of being consulted upon affoira of importance by the shah. 294 PIETRO DELLA TALLE. Abbas soon afterward removing with his court into Ghilan, without inviting Delia Valle to accompany him, the latter de< parted for Casbin, there to await the marching of the army against the Turks, in which enterprise he was still mad enough to desire to engage. On reaching this city he four d that Abbas had been more expeditious than he, and was already there, actively preparing for the war. All the military officers of the kingdom now received orders to repair with all possible de- spatch to Sultanieh, a city three days' journey west of Casbin; and Pietro, who had voluntarily become a member of t\m martial class, hurried on among the foremost, in the hope of acquiring glory of a new kind. The shuh and his army had not been many days encamped in the plains of Sultanieh, when a courier from the general, who had already proceeded towards the frontiers, arrived with the news that the Turkish army was advancing, although slowly. This news allowed the troops, who had been fatigued with forced marches, a short repose ; after which they pushed on vigorously towards Ardebil and Tabriz, Pietro and his he- roic wife keeping pace with the foremost. In this critical juncture. Abbas, though in some respects a man of strong mind, did not consider it prudent to trust altogether to corpo- real armies ; but, having in his dominions certain individuals who pretended to have some influence over the infernal powers, sought to interest hell also in his favour ; and for this purpose curried a renowned sorceress from Zunjan along with him to the wars, in the same spirit os Charles the First, and the Par- liament shortly afterward, employed Lily to prophesy for them. Their route now lay through the ancient Media, over narrow plains or hills covered with verdure but bare of trees, soue- times traversing tremendous chasms, spanned by bridges of fearful height, at others winding along the acclivities of moun- tains, or upon the edge of precipices. Notwithstanding his seeming ardour to engoge with the Turks, Pietro, for some cause or another, did not join the fighting part of the army, but remained with the shah's suite at Ardebil. This circumstance seems to have lowered him considerably in the estimation of the court. A battle, howev- er, was fought, in which the Persians were victorious ; but the Turkish sultan dying at this juncture, his successor com- manded his general to negotiate for peace, which, after the usual intrigues and delays, was at length concluded. Abbas now returnedSto Casbin, where the victory and the peace was celebrated with great rejoicings; and here Delia Valle, vrho seems to have begun to perceive that he was not hkely to make any great figure in war, took his leave of the court PIETRO DELLA VALLE. 296 in extremely bad health and low spirits, and returned to Is- pahan. Here repose, and the conversation of the friends he had made in this city, once more put him in good humour with himself and with Persia; and being of an exceedingly hasty and inconsiderate disposition, he no sooner began to experi- ence a little tranquiUity, than he exerted the influence he had acquired over the parents ot his wife to induce them, right or wrong, to leave Bagdad, where they lived contentedly and in comfort, and to settle at Ispahan, where they were in a great measure strangers, notwithstanding that one of their younger daughters was married to an Armenian of that city. The principal members of the family, no less imprudent than their adviser, accordingly quitted Mesopotamia with their treasures and effects, and established themselves in the capital of Persia. This measure was productive of nothing but disappointment and vexation. One of Maani's sisters, who had remained with her mother at Bagdad, while the father and brothers were at Ispahan, died suddenly ; and the mother, inconsolable for her loss, entreated her husband to return to her with her other children. Then followed the pangs of paiting, rendered doubly bitter by the reflection that it was for ever. Pietro be- came ill and melancholy, having now turned his thoughts, like the prodigal in the parable, towards his country and his father's hoiv 310 CARSTEN MBBUBR. the city, Niebuhr judged that he might spare himself the painv of repeating the process,more especially as the Arabs, hoverin? in troops in the vicinity, rendered him apprehensive that he might be robbed. However, as the eminence on which Pom- pey*8 pillar stands overlooks a large portion of the city, he amused himself with taking several angles from thence, in- tending to follow this up by taking others from some other po- sitions. While he was thus engaged, one of the Tiirkisii ratr- chants, who happened to be present, observing his telescope pointed towards the city, had the curiosity to look through it, and was not a Httle alarmed at ])erceiving a tower upside down. "This," says he, "gave occasion to a rumour, that I was come to Alexandria to turn the whole city topsyturvy. The report reached the governor's house. My janizary refused to accompany me when I took out my instrument ; and as I then supposed that a European could not venture to appear iti an Eastern city without a janizary, I rehnquishod the idea of making any further geometrical measurements there." "On another occasion," he continues, "when I was making an as- tronomical observation on the southern point of the Delta, a very civil and sensible peasant, from the village of Daraue, happened to be present. As I wished to show him something he had never seen before, I pointed the telescope of the quad- rant towards his village, on which he was extremely terrified at seeing all the houses upside down. He asked my servant what could be the cause of this. The man replied, that the government, being extremely dissatisfied with the inhabitants of that village, had sent me to overthrow it entirely. The poor peasant was greatly afllicted, and entreated me to wait long enough for him to take his wife, his children, and his cow to some place of safety. My servant assured him he had two hours good. He immediately ran home, and as soon as the sun had passed the meridian, I took my quadrant on board again." Niebuhr found a number of Mohammedans at Alexandria who understood French, Swedish, and Danish as completely as if they had been born in the countries where tl»ose languages are spoken. As most European travellers proceed up the Nile from this city to Cairo, the members of the expedition were desirous of performing the journey by land, but were re- strained by fear of the, Arabs; and M. Forskaal, who after- ward ventured upon this hardy enterprise, was actually strip- ped to the skin, and with great difliculty obtained back his breeches. Niebuhr now hired a small ship, and embarked on the Gist of October, but was detained in the Gulf of Aboukir by contrary winds. Impatient of delay, his companions pro* - 4 CAR8TEN NIEBUHS. ail ceeHed thence to Rosetta by land, with a company of Turks ; but our traveller continued his voyage, and reached the city very shortly after them. Though the inhabitants of Rosetta «njoycd the reputation of being peculiarly polite towards strangers, Nicbuhr was too impatient to behold the capital of modern Egypt to linger long in any provincial city ; he there- fore hastened to ascend the Nile, and enjoyed the romantic prospect of fertility, villages peeping through groves of date- trees, and here and there vast wrecks of ancient cities, which all travellers in that extraordinary country have admired. They arrived at Cairo on the 10th of November. The Nile, like the Ganges, has long been renowned for the daring race of pirates who infest it. Bruce, and many other travellers, have celebrated their ingenuity ; but the lollowing anecdote, related by Niebuhr, exhibits their exquisite skill in a still more favourable point of view : A pasha, recently arrived in Egypt, happening to be encamped on the banks of the river, his servants, aware of the dexterity of their countrymen, kept so strict a watch during the night, that they detected one of tlie pirates, and brought him before the pasha, who threatened to put him to death on the spot. The prisoner, however, en- treated permission to show the pasha one of the extraordinary tricks of his art, in the hope of thereby inducing him to spare his Hfe. The permission was granted. The man then took up the pasha's garments, and whatever else he found in the tent, and having tied them up into a packet, as the Egyptians do when they are about to swim across a river, made several turns before the company to amuse them. He then insensibly approached the Nile, and darting into the water like lightning, Jiad already reached the opposite shore, with the pasha's gar- ments upon his head, before the Turks could get ready their muskets to fire at him. Nicbuhr was exceedingly desirous, soon after his arrival at Cairo, of descending the eastern branch of the Nile to Damiet- ta ; but (he sky during the whole winter and spring was so overcast with clouds, and the rain fell so frequently, that it was impossible to take astronomical observations. On the 1st of May, however, the weather having cleared up, he left Cairo. The wind blowing from the north, their progress was slow, and he had therefore considerable leisure for observation. The Coptic churches amused him much. In one of these he saw pictures representing Christ, the Virgin, and several saints, on horseback ; intended, perhaps, to insinuate to their Mo- hammedan masters, that the founder of their religion and bis followers had not been compelled, as Christians then were in Egypt, to ride upon asses. These churches, moreover, wero 312 CAUTEN NIEBUHK. strewed with so many crutches, that a stranger might con- clude, upon observing them, that the whole Coptic community had lost the use of their limbs ; however, upon inquiry, our traveller discovered that it was the custom among them to stand in church, which many persons found so wearisome that they resolved to aid their piety witii crutches. The floors were covered witli mats, which, not being changed very fre- quently, swarmed with fleas, numbers of which did our traveller the honour to prefer him before any of their*ancient patrons. In approaching Damietta he saw about twenty large boats loaded with bees : each of these boats carried two hundred hives; the number, therefore, of the hives here assembled in one spot, was four thousand; and when the inhabitants of this floating city issued forth to visit the flowers of the neighbour- hood, they must have appeared like a locust cloud. His stay at Damietta, which is about four miles above the mouth of the Nile, was short. Europeans are nowhere in the East so much detested, on account, chiefly, of the profligate character of the French formerly settled there, who, having debauched several Mohammedan women, were nearly all massacred by the infuriated populace. Niebuhr's fancy that they still remember the crusades, and hate the Franks for the evils those insane expeditions inflicted on their ancestors, is just as rational as if the English people were to be supposed to nourish resentment against all the northern nations, because their barbarous ancestors made piratical descents upon the English coasts. While at Cairo he could not, of course, resist the desire of visiting the Pyramids. He therefore hired two Bedouin guides, and proceeded with his friend Forskaal towards the desert, where they were encountered by a young sheikh, who, by dint of bravado and insolence, succeeded in extorting from them a small sum of money ; but had they, when he first offer- ed his services, bestowed upon him half a crown, he would not only have given them no further molestation, but would have constituted himself their protector against all other importu- nates. Niebuhr afterward returned, under more favourab'e auspiceu, and completed the measurement of the two great pyramids, the loftier of which he found to be four hundred and forty-three feet, and the second to be four hundred and three feet high. I shall hereafter, perhaps, have occasion to remark upon the strange discrepancies which are found between the measurements of various travellers, which are, in fact, so great, that we must suspect some of them, at least, of having wanted the knowledge required for such an undertaking. From con- sidering the petrifactions and the nature of the rocks in this CARSTEN NIEBUHR. 313 neighbourhood, Nicbuhr vras led to infer the prodigious anti- quity of Egypt: "Supposing the whole of the rocka in the northern portions of the country to be composed of petrifac- tions of a certain kind of shell, how many years," says he, "must have elapsed before a sufHcient number of little snails to raise mountains to their present height could have been born and died ! How many other years before Egypt could have been drained and become solid, supposing that, in those re- mote ages, the waters retired from the shore as slowly as they liave during the last ten centuries ! How many years still, before the country was sufficiently peopled to think of erecting tlie first pyramid! How many more years, before that vast multitude of pyramids which are still found in the country could have been constructed ! Considering that at the present day we arc ignorant of when, and by whom, even the most modern of them was built." On the 26th of August, 1762, Niebuhr and his companions set out with the caravan going from Cairo to Suez: the rest of the party, in spite of the Mohammedans, mounted on horse- back, and Nicbuhr himself on a dromedary. By this means lie avoided scvtral evils to which the others were liable. Seat- ed on his mattress he could turn his face now on one side, now oa another, to avoid the heat of the sun ; and, after having travelled all day, was no more fatigued in the evening than if be had been all the while reposing in a chair ; while the horse- men, compelled to remain perpetually in the same posture, were well-nigh exhausted. On the 30th they encamped near a well of good water, mentioned by Bclin, Pietro Delia Valle, and Pococke, close to which the Turks formerly erected a cas- tle, which was now in ruins, and in three hours more arrived at the wells of Suez, which were surrounded by a strong wall, to keep out the Arabs, and entered by a door fastened with enormous clumps of iron. The water here was drawn up with buckets or sacks of leather. Suez, from its fortunate position on the Red Sea, carried on a considerable trade. Numbers of ships were built there an- nually, the materials of which were transported thither on the backs of camels from Cairo. The environs consist of naked "^ rocks, or beds of loose sand, in which nothing but brambles and a few dry stunted plants, among others the rose of Jeiicho, are found to grow. This rose is employed by the women of the East in various superstitious practices, and is therefore to be found for sale in all cities. When pregnant, they gather one of the buds, and putting its stem in water, foretel whether their pains will be severe or slight from the greater or smaller development of tlie flower. 27* '«'. > J'-. 314 CARSTEN NIEBVHB. Niebuhr*8 first inquiry on arriving at Suez was conceming the " Mountains of Inscriptions/' about which so much had been said in Europe. Tlie individuals to whom his first questions were put had never even heard of it; others, who were exactly in the same predicament, but desired to possess themselves of a little of their European gold, professed a most accurate knowledge of the spot, but upon inquiry were de- tected. At length, however, an Arab was discovered, from whose replies it was clear, that whether he had seen the real Gehtlel Mohatteb or not, some mountain or another he had beheld, upon which inscriptions in an unknown language were to be found. Under this man's guidance, therefore, they placed themselves, — That is, Niebuhr and Von Haven, for the rest were, from various causes, detained at Suez; and leaving the Red Sea on their right hand they struck off into the desert. Niebuhr found that the Arabs, wliose profession it is to serve as guides, were distinguished, like all other persons of that class, for their extravagant cupidity. So long as they could live at the expense of strangers, their own provisions and means were assiduously spared ; but on other occasions they exhibited various symptoms that the old national virtue of hospitality was not wholly banished from their minds. The women in this part of Arabia are not in the habit of conceal- ing their faces from strangers, as is the fashion in Egypt. Niebuhr, in his solitary rambles through the country, discovered the wife and sister of a sheikh grinding corn beside their tent; who, instead of flying and concealing themselves at his ap- proach, as he seems to have expected, came forward, accord- ing to the good old custom of the East, with a present in their hands. • On arriving at what his guides called the " Mountain of In- scriptions," a lofly rugged eminence, which it cost them much time and toil to climb, he found — not what he had expected — but a vast Egyptian cemetery, in which were a great number of sepulchral monuments covered with hieroglyphics. These inscriptions he was not permitted to copy at the time, because the sheikh of the mountain apprehended he might thereby gain possession of the immense treasures concealed beneath ; but one of his guides, who probably had little faith in that point of the sheikh's creed, afterward, on his return from Mount Sinai, enabled him to copy whatever he pleased. On his arri- val at the convent of St. Catherine the monks politely refused to admit him, alleging, as their excuse,that he had not brought along with him a letter from ^eir bishop. The patriarch's letter, which he presented to them, they returned unopened. He waSt in fact, destined to meet with nothing but disappoint- CARSTEN NIEBUIIB. 315 ment in these celebrated regions ; for his Arabs, having con- ducted him up to a certain height on Mount Sinai, refused to proceed any farther, and he was not possessed of sufficient resolution to ascend the remainder alone. Niebuhr now hastened back to ISuez, and on his return forded the Red Sea on his dromedary, a thing which no Euro' pean had done before, though the guides, who were on foot, did not find the water above knee deep. Being desirous of surveying the extremity of the Arabian Gulf, he procured a guide soon after his return from Mount Sinai, with whom he set out upon this expedition. They travelled, however, in con- stant fear; and the sight of a stranger in the distance increas- ed the terrors of the guide to so extraordinary a pitch, that it may be suspected he had blood upon his hands, and dreaded the hour of retribution. The constant arrival of pilgrims from Egypt had now ren- dered Suez, in proportion to its extent, more populous than Cairo. These holy men, being on their way to the city of their prophet, regarded Christians with an evil eye, just as a bigoted Franciscan travelling to Jerusalem would regard a heretic or an unbeliever; and on this account Niebuhr greatly dreaded the voyage he was about to perform in their company from Suez to Jidda. To avoid, as far as poss^le, all causes of dispute with their fellow-passengers, they emhaikcd several days before the rest, paid their passage, stowed away their luggage, and then amused themselves with observing the strange characters by which they were surrounded, not the least extraordinary of which was a rich black eunuch, who in imitation of the great Turkish lords, travelled with his harem. All the passengers having at length repaired on board, they set sail on the 9th of October, and sailing along coral reefs, which in bad weather are highly dangerous, they arrived next day at Tor. Near this town is a small village inhabited by 0|iristians, to which Forskaal went alone, for the purpose of visiting what is supposed to be the site of ancient Elim. While he was absent, it was rumoured on board that the Arabs had formed the intention of pursuing and arresting the Frank, who had landed with the design of sketching their mountains; upon which a number of janizaries from Cairo, who happened to be on board, immediately set out for the village, and having met with M. Forskaal, conducted him back in safety to the vessel. "Are there many Christians," inquires Niebuhr, ** who, under similar circumstances, would do as much for a Jew?" *• ^^ 316 CARSTEN NIEBUHR. On the evening of the 16th of October they discovered, about sunset, the Emerald Mountains on the coast of Egypt, called Gebel Zumrud by the Arabs. Next day there happened an eclipse of the sun. In Mohammedan countries persons who are able to calculate an eclipse are regarded as consum- mate physicians. Forsknal had informed the reis, or captain, that an eclipse was about to take place ; and to amuse him and keep him from interrupting his astronomical observations, Niebuhr had smoked several glasses, through which he, as well as the principal merchants, might contemplate the phe- nomenon. They were alUgrently amused, and from that moment Forskaal enjoyed the reputation of being a second Avicenna. From a spirit of humane complaisance, which in- duces us to allow every one an opportunity of exhibiting his peculiar talents, men are exceedingly apt to fall ill when they come in contact with a physician. Our traveller's Moham- medan companions were particularly polite in this way ; for, no sooner had they persuaded thenistives that there was a physician on board, than they all discovered that they were attacked by diseases which hud previously lain dormant, and confidingly demanded medicines and advice. Forskaal pre- scribed for all. To the majority he recommended more or less sleep, nni^a careful attention to their diet. A pilgrim at length prcselited himself, who complained that he was unable to see during the night. The physician advised him to light a candle. This was excellent. The Arabs, who are naturally lively, burst into a loud laugh, and all their diseases were for- gotten in a moment. Between Ras Mohammed and Ilnssnni the ship was twice in danger of being set on fire by the negligence of the women ; but at length tiiey reached this small island in safety, and the Mohammedans believing the principal danger to be now over, exhibited various tokens of joy, firing muskets and pistols, illuminating the ship with lamps and lanterns, and uttering the triumphant cry of Be, be, be! so commonly ustd by the orien- tals. The sailors and the pilot petitioned for a present, the former coming round to each passenger with a little boat in their hands, which, when the collecti )n was over, was thrown into the sea. During this passage Nicbuhr, who, up to his arrival at Suez, had scarcely seen the face of a Mohammedan woman, had an opportunity of viewing three or four of them naked in a bath; and his indiscreet curiosity very fortunately entailed upon him no evil consequences. On the 29th of October they arrived nt Jidda, where the usual attempts were made to defraud the custom-house. In 4- Ifi*. n*./^* CARSTEN NIEDUeS. 317 this praiseworthy design some succeeded to the extent of their desires ; but others, less adroit, or more unfortunate, were de> tected and compelled to pay the duties, no such atrocity as the confiscation of the whole property being ever practised. A duty of two or two and a half ftr cent, being levied upon all specie, people were most anxious to conceal their wealth : but by endeavouring to effect this, one of Niebuhr's companions suffered severely; for in stepping from the ship into the boat, his purse, which he had tied round his body, opened accident- ally, and about a hundred crowns fell into the sen. The com- mon cash of the expedition was conveyed on shore in the bottoms of their boxes of drugs, which were not searched, it being in Arabia a general opinion that physicians, having no Deed of money, seldom carry any about with them. Niebuhr had observed in Egypt that the populace looked with inexpressible contempt upon Christians, and thence in- ferred that in proportion as they approached the Holy City they should find this inhospital bigotry on the increase ; but his apprehensions were unfounded, for the people of Jidda, long accustomed to the sight of Europeans, and constantly experi- encing the humanizing influence of commerce, were peculiarly refined, allowing strangers to do almost what they pleosed. It was merely forbidden them to approach the Mecca gate ; which, like the city to which it leads, is reputed holy. Our traveller, during his residence at Cairo, had formed an ac- quaintance with a poor sheikh, who, for a Mohammedan, might be said to be as highly favoured by science as he was neglected by fortune; and this man, in gratitude for the knowledge he had derived from him, besides furnishing him with letters of recommendation to the Kihaya and Pasha of Jidda, had privately written to those important personages, who had honoured him for his knowledge, earnestly requesting them to show every possible mark of kindness and attention to his European friends. These were the letters from which they had least expectations, and presented last; nevertheless, when the recommendations of all their other friends had failed even to procure them a lodging, those of the poor sheikh intro- duced them to powerful protectors. Niebuhr was here witness of the curious mode of catching wild ducks noticed by Po- cocke in Upper Egypt, and by another English traveller in China. When a number of these birds were observed in the water, the sportsman undressed, covered his head with sea- weed, and then crept quietly into the water. By this means the ducks were deceived, so that they allowed the man to come near and catch them by the legs. ^■■m 318 CARSTEN NIEBOHik They remained at Jidda until the 14th of December, when they embarked in one of the country vessels for Lohein. Nie- buhr was not possessed of the art of painting what he saw with the fine colours of language. His narrative is frequently dry even to insipidity. He was observant, he was calm, he was judicious, but he was destitute of eloquence, and this deficien- cy is nowhere in his works more strongly felt than in his ac- count of his various voyages through the Red Sea. On the 22d they landed on the coast of Yemen, near Fej el Jelbe, inhabited by Bedouins, who are suspected of being pagans. A few tents were discovered on the shore, and as soon as the travellers had landed, which they did unarmed lest they should be taken for enemies, several of the wild natives came down to meet them. Their appearance and dress were extraordinary. Their dark hair descended in profusion to their shoulders ; and instead of a turban, several of them had merely a cord tied round the head, intended, I imagine, to keep their tresses in order. Others, more careful and industrous, had woven themselves a kind of bonnet with green palm-leaves. A miserable waist-cloth constituted the whole of their dress. From the eagerness of the sailors to get their lances out of their hands they immediately discovered that they were sus- pected ; upon which they cast the weapons on the ground, assuring the strangers that they had nothing to fear. Not- withstanding that they had landed in search of provisions the Bedouins conducted them to their tents, where two wpmen came out to meet them. Their salutation was curious. The women, who were unveiled, kissed the arm of the sheikh, who, in return, pressed their heads with his lips. The ladies then advanced towards the strangers. Their complexion was sallow brown, they had blackened their eyelids with surme, and died their nails with henne; and, like the lower ranks of women in Egypt, exhibited marks of tattooing on the chin, cheeks and forehead. Cosm 'tics being rare in those countries, they requested our traveller? to favour them with n small quan- tity of kohol and ai henne; but they had injudiciously neg- lected to provide themselves with any thing of the kind, and consequently saw themselves in the disagreeable predicament of being compelled to refuse. On their arrival at Loheia they were received with remark- able politeness by the emir and the chief merchants of the city. They had taken the small vessel in which they performed the voyage for a longer passage us far as Hodeida; and the cap- tain, understanding that they had some intention of remaining at Loheia, secretly applied to the emir with a request that he would, jBompel them to complete their engagement, either by '4fc ■ .^■- CABSTEN NIEBUHR. 819 proeeedinj^ all the way to Hodeida, or by paying the whole turn agreed upon. With a generosity not often displayed towards utter strangers by rocu in office, the emir replied, that ihould the travellers refuse payment of the sum in question, be himself would satisfy his demands; and the principal merchant to whom the suspicious navigator also applied enter- ed into the same engagement. Of course they were not al- lowed to suffer by their grateful and astonished guests. The above merchant in his eastern style of hospitality, gave them a house to live in during their stay. In return the travel- lers amused him and the emir with the effects of their micro- scopes, telescopes, &.C. These things filled them with won- der; crowds of people, curious but well-behaved, thronged their court from morning till night, examining with ottention whatever they saw, and expressing their astonishment at every thing. This was too much for Danish politeness. They hired a porter, and stationing him at tlieir door, gave strict or- ders that none but professional men should be admitted. But the curiosity of the Arabs was not to be subdued so easily; for, when all other excuses failed, they feigned illness, and gained admittance under pretence of coming to consult the physician. Sometimes Dr. Cramer, who appears to have been an uncouth creature, was requested to favour sick persons with a visit at their own houses, and one day received a pressing entreaty to repair without delay to the emir el bahr, or captain of the port, who had need of consulting him. Cramer, not attending to this summons immediately, was shortly afterward informed that the emir el bahr^s saddle-horse was at the door waiting for him. This piece of attention was too flattering to be resisted; he therefore descended immediately, and was about to put his foot into the stirrup, when he was interrupted with the infor- mation that the horse was unwell, and had been brought there as a patient! Physicians in Arabia prescribe for horses as well as men; this, therefore was not meant as an insult ; but Cramer, who felt all his Danish blood curdle in his veins at the bare idea of prescribing tor a Mohammedan horse, and was, moreover, mortified at not being allowed to mount his patient, indignantly refused to exercise the functions of a horse-doctor. Luckily, however, their European servant, M'ho had served in a dragoon regiment, understood something of the veterinary art, and undertook the cure of the emir's horse ; which suc- ceedingly happily, he also was regarded as an eminent physi- cian, and was allowed to elevate his ambition to the treatment of men. As our travellers continued, as far as possible, to live after the European fashion, their manners were necessarily fUi mucl| X % 'i-. <* '^M 320 CABSTBN MEBUHR. an object of curiosity to the Arabs as those of the Arabs were to them. One day two young men came to see them eat. Of these, one was a- young nobleman from Sana, whose gentle manners announced a superior education ; the other, a young chief from the mountains, wh'^se country was seldpm visited by strangers. This the narvete and simplicity of his manners soon rendered manifest. Upon being invited to eat, he replied, ** God preserve me from eating with infidels, who have no be- lief in God !*' Niebuhr then demanded the name of his coun- ti^ ; •* What," said he, " can my country concern thee? Hast thou formed the design of going thither to subdue it?" He afterward made several remarks upon their manners, the sim- plicity of which excited their laughter; at which the Arab feh ashamed, and ran away in confusion. His companion fetched him back, however, and he returned, wondering at the amaz- ing quantity of food which they devoured. Fowl after fowl disappeared before these mighty eaters ; the poor Arab, who began to entertain awful ideas of the capacity of a German stomach, and npprehen'ling that they might bring about a famine in the land, for awhile looked on in silent amazement; but when they had already eaten as much as would, perhaps, have satisfied a whole tribe of Bedouins, he started up, upon seeing Von Haven preparing to carve yet another fowl, and seizing him by the arm, exclaimed, "How much then, dost thou intend to eat ?" This sally produced still louder peals of laughter than ever, and tlie poor Arab, who probably appre- hended that they might finish by eating him, rushed out of the house f^nd disuppeared. Having sufliciently observed whatever was interesting or i'lew at Lonein, they departed thence on the 20th of February, 1763, their servants and baggajje mounted on camels, and themselves on asses. Not that Europeans were here, as at Cairo, prohibited from riding on horseback, but that horses were dear and not easily to be hired, while the asses, though comparatively cheap, were large fine animalii, of easy gait. Arabia, it is well known, is surrounded by a belt of burning sand, which has in all ages aided in protecting it from inva- sion. This our travellers hid now to traverse, but they suffer- ed no particular inconvenience from the heat, and in four days arrived at Beit el Fakih^ the greatest cofiee emporium in the world. Niebuhr, being now in a country where travelHng w^? at- tended with no risk, and desiring, apparently, to escape »ora the society of his companions, hired an ass, and set out alone on an excursion to several neighbouring towns. This was succeeded by several other excursions, and at length he pro- < A J. CAR8TEN' NIEBUHR. 321 eeeded to the Cofice Mountains, a district which ofiers, per- haps, afi many curious particulars to the observation of a trav. eljcr as any spot in Asia. These mountains could be ascend- ed only on foot. The road, though rugged and broken, lay through coffee plantations and gardens, and to Niebuhr, who bad just quitted the burning plains of the Tehama, afforded the most exquisite gratification. The prospects, moreover, which here meet the eye on all sides are rich and beautiful. They are precisely what the hills of Judea must have been be- fore Sion liad been profaned by the heathen, when every man, confident in the protection of the Lord, sat down tranquilly under his vine or under his fig-tree. These mountains are covered with vineyarJs to the summit, have a woody appear- ance, and are beautified by numerous mountain streams, which frequently leap in long cascades from the rocks. The cofTee-trec, which was at this time in full flower in many places, diffuses around an agreeable odour, and somewhat resembles the Spanish jasmin. The Arabs pla"t thesj trees so closs that the rays of the sun can scarcely find th^ir way between them, which prevents the necessity of frequent watering ; but they have reservoirs on the heights from which they can, when necessary, turn numerous streamlets into the plantations. From the CoffLO Mountains they returned to Beit el Fakih, whence tliey shortly afterward departed on another short ex- cursion. The natives, who carefully abstained from exposing themselves to t,l,« sun during the luiat of the day, expressed their well-grou.iiJed astonishment that Europeans should be impnident enough to hazard so drngcrous a step; and our travellers were, in reality, at this very time laying the founda- tion of those fatal diseases which shortly afterward swept them away, Niebulu" only excepted ; for I am persuaded that they might have returned, even in spite of their execrable diet and destructive habits of drinking, to brave the climate of Yemen, had they timed their journeys more judiciously. By this time their appearpncrj was tolerably oriental; ths 8un had bion/ed their courtenances, their beards had acquir- ed a respectable length, their dress was exar*ly that of the country, and they had, moreover, adopted Arabic names. Even their guides no longer took them for European^, but supposed them to be members of the eastern church, who by forbidden studies had succeeded in discovering the art of making golJ, and were searching among the lonely recesses of their mountains for some rare plant whose juices were re- quisite in their alchymical processes. Niebuhr'n assiduous observation of the stars considerably aided in streDgthenin^ m- W:- r ''L 322 CARSTEN MBBUHR. this delusion, which upon the whole, perhaps, was rather beneficial to them than otherwise. In the hilly districts of Yemen our traveller observed among the Arabs a peculiar mode of passinj^ the nis:ht. Instead of making use of a bed, each individual crept entirely naked into a sack, where, without closing the mouth of it, the brenth and transpiration kept him sufficiently warm. Niebuhr liiinself never tried the sack, but very soon acquired the habit, which is universal among the Arabs of Yemen, of sleeping with the face covered, to guard against the malignant eii'ects of the dews and poisonous winds. Here, M. Forskanl discovered the small tree that produces the balm of Mecca, which hap- pening to be in flower at the time enabled him to write a com- plete description of it, which he did seated under its branchefi. The inhabitants, who knew nothing of its value, merely made use of it as firewood, on account of its agreeable odour. Upon descending from these mountainous countries, where the climate is as cool and salubrious ns in most parts of Fv rope, Niebuhr found the heat of the Tehama almost uiduppi;' able, and entering a little coffee-house, overwhelmed with fatigue, threw himself on his mat in a current of air, and fell asleep. This heedless action nearly cost him his life. He awoke in a violent fever, which hung about him for a consid- erable time, and reduced his frame to such an extreme state of weakness that the slightest exertion became painful. Yon Haven, too, whose supreme delight consisted in brandy, wine, and good eating, and who seldom quitted his sofa, except for the purpose of placing himself before liis gods at the dinner- table, now began to experience the impolicy of feeding like on ogre in the deserts of the Tehama, and very quickly fell a victim to liis imprudence. •? From Beit cl Fakih they proceeded to Mokhn, where, as at Cairo, FiUropeans were compelled to enter the city by a par- ticular gate, on foot, ns a mark of humiliation. Niehuhr found that he and his companions were here taken for Tuiks, and they were accordingly directed to the khan, or inn, where the Osmnnlis usually took up tlieii abode. Though they under- stood that there was an English merchant at Mokha, they judged it unnecessary, in the first instance, to make applica- tion to him, ns they had everywhere else in Yemen been re- ceived with politeness and hospitality; and besides, they were somewhat apprehensive that, from their dress and appearance, he might be led to regard them as vagabonds or renegadeH. They therefore addressed themselves to an Arab merchant, by whom they wers well received. '^ • * ^ ;'i' CARSTEN NIEBUHR. 323 The people of Mokha made some pretensions to civilization, which is unfortunate, as the term, at least in the East, means cnstom-house officers, and insolence towards strangers. Our travellers, though no merchants, had large quantities of bag- page, which, of course, was taken to the c istom-house, before they could be allowed to enjoy the use of it. I have already observed, that although Niebuhr himself was a temperate, per- haps even an abstemious man, his companions set a high value on the gratification of their senses. Von Haven himself, who, as I have already observed, shortly afterward fell u vic- tim to his indiscretion, was still among them, and it may therefore be easily imagined that the first articles they were desirous of obtaining from the custom-house were their cook- ing utensils and their beds. The Arabs, however, were differ- ently minded. They allowed their curiosity to fasten upon the cases in .vhich the natural history specimens were packed, and resolved to begin with them. Among these, unfortunate- ly, there was a small barrel containing various fish of the Red Sea, preserved in spirits of wine. This M. Forskaal, who had collected these fishes himself, injudiciously requastedthe officers to allow to pass unopened. The request immediately roused all their suspicions. He might, for aught they knew, be a magician, who had confined the Red Sea itself in that barrel, for the purpose of carrying it off, with all its fishes, into Eu- rope. It behooved them, therefore, to bestir themselves. Ac- cordingly the barrel was the first thing opened ; but when the operation had been performed, the result anticipated by the naturalist was produced, for so pungent, so atrocious a stink was emitted from the half-putrefied fish, that the authorities very probably apprehended them to be a troop of assassins, cffiiiniissioned by the devil to administer perdition through th i "■^sinlt fo all true believers. The custom-house otficer, how- 1 confiding in the protection of the Prophet, determined to jv ! t'j infernal odour, and in order to explore the abomina- tion ,,! tl' ^ bottom, took out the horrid remains of the fish, and stirred up the liquor with a piece of iron. The entreaties of the travellers to have it put on one side probably caused them to be regard I I ns ghouls, who made their odious repasts upon «uch foul preparations. The Arab still stirred and stirred, and at length In an inauspicious moment upset the cask, and deluged the whole custom-house with its contents. Had Mo- hammed himself been boiled in this liquid, it could not have '?melt more execrably ; we may therefore easily imagine the Ji^g-^st with which the grave assembly beheld it flowing under their beards, infecting them with a scent which it would take several dirrhems* worth of perfume to remove. Their ill- ■ s %* 824 CARgTEN NIEBOHR. humour was increased when, on opening another cask, con- taining insects, their nostrils were again saluted with a fresh variety of stink, which they inferred must possess pecuHar charms for the nose of a Frank, since he would travel so far to procure himself the enjoyment of its savour. An idea now began to suggest itself to the Arabs, which still further irritated them, which was, that the insolent Franks had packed up these odious things in order to insult the governor of the city, at the expense of whose beard, it was not doubted, they in- tended to amuse themselves. This persuasion was fatal to many a cockleshell. They mercilessly thrust down a pointed iron bar through the collections, crushing shells, and beetles, and spiders. The worst stroke of all, however, wns yet to come. This was the opening of n small cask, in wiiich several kinds o^ serpents were preserved in spirits. Everybody was now ten/ 1 \t was suggested that the Franks had no doubt come to the for the purpose of poisoning the inhabitants, and had represented themselves as physicians in order to com- mit their horrid crimes the more effectually. Even the gov- ernor was now moved. In fact, his anger wns roused to such a pitch, that, though a grave and pious man, he exclaimed, "By God, these people shall not pass the night in our city!" The custom-house was then closed. While they were in this perplexity, one of their servants arrived in great hurry and confusion, with tne news that their books and clothes hud been thrown out through the window at their lodgings, and the door shut against them. They moreover found, upon inquiry, that it would be difficult to dis- cover any person who would receive into his house individuals suspected of meditating the poisoning of the city ; but at length a man bold enough to undertake this was found. Such was their positi >n when they received from the English mer- chant above al. jded to on invitation to dinner. "Never," says Niebuhr, "was an invitation more gladly accepted; for we not only found at his house a dinner such as we had never seen since our departure from Cairo, but had at the same time the good fortune to meet with a man who became our sincere and faithful friend. The afTuir of the custom-house was long and tedious; but at length, by dint of bribery and perseverance, their baggage, snakes and all, was delivered to them, and they even rose, in consequence of a cure attempted by M. Cramer on the governor's leg, into high consideration and favour. Niebuhr was here again attacked by dysentery, and Von Haven died. This event inspired the whole party with terror, and having with much difficulty obtained the governor's per- miMUOD, they shortly aAerward departed for the interior. . .■•, ^t•' CARSTEN NIEBUHR. 325 They travelled by night, to escape the extreme heat of the sun, but soon found the roads so bad as to render this mode of journeyinw impracticable. The country during the earJy part of their route was barren, and but thinly inhabited; but in proportion ns they departed from the shore the landscape im- proved in l>. luty and fertility. At tlie small city of Jerim, on the road to Sana, Niebuhr had the misfortune to lose his friend Forskaal, the best Arabic scholar of the whole pariy, and a roan who looked forward with enthusiasm to the glory to be derived from the successful termination of their travels. The bigotry of tlse Mohammedans rendered it difficult to obtain a place of burial for the dead, who was interred in the European fashion; which, immediately after their departure, caused the Arabs, who imagine that the Europeans bury treasures with their dead, to exhume the body. Finding nothing to reward their pains, they compelled the Jews to reinter him ; and as these lionest people complained that they were likely to have no remuneration for their labour, the governor allowed them to take the coffin in payment, and restore the body naked to the earth. On the 17th of July, 1763, they arrived in the environs of Sana, and sent forward n servant with a letter, announcing their arrival to the chief minister of the imam. This states- man, however, who had previously received tidings of their approach, and was desirous of receiving them with true Arab politeness, had already despatched one of his secretaries to meet them at the distance of half a league from the city. This gentleman informed them that they had been long expect- ed at Sana, and that, in order to render their stay agreeable, the imam had assigned them a countrv-house at liir el Assah. While thsy were conversing with the secretary, and secretly congratulating themselves on their good fortune, tliey arrived at the entrance into their garden, where the Arab desired them to alight. They of course obeyed, but soon discovered that their guide had played them a trick in the manner of the people of Cairo, ^r he remained on his ass during the rest of the way, which was considerable, enjoying the pleasure of beholditjff a number of Franks toiling along on foot beside his beast. This put them out of humour, and their spleen was increased when, on arriving at their villa, they found that, however elegant or agreeable it might be, it did not contain a single article of furniture, or a person who would provide them even with bread and water. Next day, however, they received from the imum a present of five sheep, three cnmel-loads of wood, a large quantity of wax-tapers, rice, and spices. At the same time they were in- 23* CAB8TEN NIBBUHB. formed that two days at least would elapse before thej could obtain an audience, a matter about which ihey were indifferent; but that they could not in the mean time quit their house. Though considerably cliagrined at the latter circumstance, they hoped in some measure to neutralize its effects, by receiv- ing the visits of such natives as curiosity, or any other motive, might allure to the house ; and accordingly were very much grati6ed at the appearance of a Jew, who had performed in their company the journey from Cairo to Loheia. This young Israelite, delighted to spend a few moments in the company of persons who received him without any demonstrations of con- tempt, appeared to experience a gratification in obliging them; and came on the second day accompanied by one of the most celebrated astrologers of his sect, from whom Niebuhr learned the Hebrew appellations of several stars. While he was yet conversing with this learned descendant of Abraham, the secretary of the imam arrived. They were ignorant of the etiquette of the court of Sana, according to which they should have abstained from receiving as well as from paying visits; but the secretary, whose business it was to have instructed them on these points, doubly enraged by their infraction of the rules of decorum, and by a sense of his own negligence, direct- ed all the violence of his fury against the unfortunate Jews, whose society he imagined must have been equally disagreea- ble to the travellers as it would have been to liira. He there- fore not only expelled them from the house, but, in order to protect the imam's guests from a repetition of the same intru- sion, gave peremptory orders to their Mohammedan attendant to admit no person whatever until they saould have obtained their audience. Two days after their arrival they were admitted into the presence of the imam. It is probable that, having previously formed an exalted idea of the splendour of oriental princes, the reader will be liable to disnppo.'nment on the present occasion. The riches and magnificence of the califs, however, of which we find so many glowing descriptions in the Thousand and One Nights, in D'Herbelot, arid many other writers, have long passed away, leaving to the successors of those religious mon- archs nothing but remembrance of ancient glory, which gleams like a meteoric light about their throne and diadem. Niebuhr, arriving at Sana from the sandy deserts of the Tehama, where poverty reigns paramount over every thing, enjoyed the ad- vantage of possessing an imagination sobered by stern r auli- ties. His fancy depicted the court of the imam in the livery of the desert. He expected little. If he was disappointed, therefore, it was not disagreeably. ♦f 4 CAR8TEN NIEBUHR. 327 The imam, with a vanity pardonable enough in a prince who learns from his cradle to estimate his own greatness by the pomp and glitter which surround him, had in fact employ* ed the two days elapsed since the arrival of his guests in active preparations for their reception ; and the rules of etiquette forbidding strangers to pay or receive visits during the interval, were originally intended to conceal this circumstanct;, and create the belief that the holyday appearance of the court wa» its ordinary costume. Our travellers were conducted to the palace by the minister's secretary, who here performed what is called the mehmaudar*s office in Persia. They found the great court of the edifice thronged with horses, officers, and oilier Arabs of various grades ; so that it required the ministry of the imam's grand equerry to open them a way through the crowd. The hall of audience was n spacious square apart- ment, vaulted above, and having on its centre several fountains of water, which, gushing aloft to a considerable height, and falling again incessantly, maintained n refreshing coolness in the air. A broad divan, adorned with fine Persian carpets, occupied the extremity of the hall, and flanked the throne, which was merely covered with silken stuffs, and rich cush- ions. Here the imam sat cross-legged, according to the cus- tom of the East. He received the travellers graciously, allow- ed them to kiss the hem of his garment, and the back and palm of his hand — an honour which is but sparingly granted to strangers. At t'^e conclusion of this ceremony a herald cried aloud, "God save the imam !" and all the people repeat- ed the same words. As their knowledge of Arabic was still very limited, they conversed with the imam by means of an interpreter, o contrivance admirably adapted for shortening public conferences, since there are few persons who, under anch circumstances, would be disposed to indulge- in useless circumlocution. The result of this audience was, that they obtained the prince's permission to remain in the country as long ns they desired ; and on their retiring, a small present in money waa sent them, which they judiciously determined to accept. In the afternoon of the same day they were invited to the minis- ter's villa, where Niebuh** exhibited his mathematical instru- ments, his microscopes, books, engravings, &.c. ; nt the sight of which Fakih Aclimcd expressed the highest satisfaction. From the various questions which he put to them, they dis- covered, moreover, that he himself was a man of very con- siderable knowledge, particularly in geography ; while from his constant intercourse with foreigners his manners had ac- ((uired an ease and gracefulness which rendered hit coiopaDjr 1* » ■% \^.'- ■ '* 32S CARSTBN NIBBUHR. highly plensinv. Nevertheless, Niebuhr, who feared that the cupidity of this minister, or of some ocher courtier, might be excited by the sin[ht of his instruments, regretted to perceive these tokens of curiosity, and the necessity he was under of sntisfying it ; but his suspicions, which appear to have been as unfounded as they were illiberal, were not of long duration, for no man demanded of him any part of his property, or seemed to regard it with covetousness. He, in fact, learned shortly afterward that even the presents which it was judged necessary to make both to the imam and his minister were altogether unexpected, since they were not merchants, and demanded no favours of prince or courtiers. Niebuhr confesses that the reception which he and his com- panions met with at Sana was marked by a degree of civility and friendship that far surpassed their e.vpectaiions. The Arabs would seem, indeed, to have derived so much gratifica- tion from their society, that it is more than probable they would willingly have made some sacrifice to retain them ; but the death <»f Von Haven and Forskaal had cast a damp over their imaginations; they apprehended that disease might even then be undermining their constitutions, and were therefore more desirous of flying from the country than of studying its produc- tions or its inhabitants. When they departed from Mokha several English ships were lying there, taking in cargoes of coffee for India; and this circumstance, by promising to facil- itate their progress farther towards the east, operated strongly upon their determination to quit Arabia, the original object of their mission, for other regions which appeared more agreea- ble. One of Niebuhr's biographers appears to think that it was mere solicitude to transmit to Europe an account of what had bsen performed by the expedition, and not any apprehen- sion ofd;mger, which rendered him so exceedingly desirous of quitting Yemen, for that he never clung to liftj with any great eagrr.iess. I have by no means an unfavourable opinion of Niebuhr's courage, which, on the contrary, I consider to have been in general equni to the dangers to which he was exposed; but I nowhere find any traces of that stoical indifference about life and death which his biographer seems to attribute to him; and am persuaded, that on the occasion of his departure from Sana, it was the apprehension of death, united, perhaps, with a longing for European society, which actuated his move- ments. At the same time I acknowledt^e that his fears were natural, and that most travellers under similar circumstances would have acted much the same way. We miss, however, in Niebuhr, both on this and on all other occasions, the chival- rous spirit of Murco Polo, Pietro della Vulle, Cbardin, and ':#^. i ■4^, «*• CAR8TKN RIBBDHB. 329 Bruce, as we miss in his writings the entbusinsm which cattt so powerfuKa charm over the records of their adventures. The same reasons which induce me to acknowledge the ra- tional nature of Niebuhr's apology for suddenly quitting Yemen long before he had completed his examination and description ofit,inchne me likewise to accept his reasons for avoiding the road by Jerim and Taas, which would have led him by Had- dafa and Dhafar, where Hamynric inscriptions were said to exist. He had already been frequently deceived by the mis- representations of Arabic ignorance, and therefore doubted the accuracy of his informants. The three remaining mem- bers of the mission set out from Sana on the 26th of July, and arriving at Mokhn on the 5th of August, found that their ap- prehensions of danger at Sana, which, though excusable, were not well founded, had precipitated them into real peril; for the English ship in which they intended to embark was by no means ready to sail, so that they had to remain in that burning eliraate nearly a whole month, during which almost every indi- vidual of the party, servants and all, fell sick. The ship in which Niebuhr at length set sail for India be- longed to Mr. Frp.acis Scott, a younger son of the Scotts of Harden, a Jacobite family of Roxburgshire. With this gentle- man Niebulir ever nAer lived on terms of intimate friendship; and " five-and-thirty years afterward," says our traveller's son, the historian of the Roman republic, "when I studied in Ed- inburgh, I was received in alt respects as one of the family in the house of this venerable man, who then lived at his ease in the Scottish capital on the fortune he hud acquired by honor- able industry." On his arrival at Bombay he met with the most cordial re- ception from the English, in whose society he hud first learned to dehght whil in Egypt. Here he spent a considerable i lue in studying the manners and customs of the Hindoos, and his observations though now destitute of value, must at that time have possessed considerable interest, above all on the Conti- nent. He here lost Cramer, the last of his companions; Baurenfeind, the artist, having died on the voyage. During his stay at Bombay he made a voyage to Surat, famous in the history of oriental commerce and in the Arabian Nights ; but his stay was short, and he returned to Bombay without push- ing his researches any farther into the interior. The passion for travelling was certainly never very powerful in Niebuhr ; but he was possessed by considerable curiosity, and this pas- sion induced him to form the design of proceeding in an Eng- lish ship to China ; but beiug unwell at the time of the ship's 330 CARSTEN NIBBUHB. departure, he relinquished the design, which he never after' ward resumed. « His residence at Bombay, a much less healthy place than Sana, v.as continued so lon^, that I oni strongly inclined to suspect the want of European society mny, nfter all, have numbered among liis most powerful reasons for hurrying from Yemen. From this city he forwarded the manuscripts of his deceased companions ns well as his own papers, by way of Lpndon, to Copenhagen ; and nt length, on the 8th of Decem- ber, 1764, set sail in one of the cM- CARSTEN NIEBUHR. 333 carpets; and among the ornaments of the palace were numer- ous European mirrors, and pictures of Persian workmanship, among which was one representing a woman bathing, almost wholly naked. Niebuhr was greatly surprised to find pictures of this kind in the house of a Mohammedan ; but, in fact, the Skiahs are far less rigid on this point than the Soannees ; and ve learn from the Arabian Nights, that even so early as the time of Haroon al Rashid, painting was encouraged in Persia nnd Mesopotamia, since that celebrated prince is said to have adorned his palace with the performances of the principal Persian artists. From Shiraz he proceeded to the ruins of Persepolis, the site and nature of which is described in the life of Chardin. Hia head-quarters during his stay was at the small village of Merdast. From thence, as well as from the other villages, the peasants frequently came to observe him during his examina- tion of the ruins, in which he constantly employed the whole day, from eight o'clock in the morning until five in the after- noon. The majority of these visiters were women and young girls, who were curious to see a European ; and the whole of the population were so entirely harmless, that the traveller felt himself as safe in their company as he could have been in any village in Europe. He here received a visit from an Arab sheikh, a learned, polished, and agreeable man, who had passed thirty years in Persia, during which time he had amassed considerable wealth, and now lived in independence and ease. From Persepolis he returned by the way of Shiraz to Abu- sheher, where he embarked in one of the country vessels for the island of Rarak, where he was hospitably received and entertained by the Dutch merchants settled there ; and after a short stay, proceeded to Bassorah. Here he embarked in a small vessel which was about to sail up the Euphrates to Hillah. His companion, during this voyage, was an officer of the janizary corps, who lay in a small chimber close to Nie- buhr's cabin, and appeared to be at the point of death. In other respects, this little voyage, which occupied twenty-one days, was sufticiently agreeable. The passengers were re- markable for their good-humour and obliging disposition ; and often, when our traveller set up his quadrant on the banks of the stream, they stood around him in a circle, while he was making his observations, to screen him from the wmd with their long flowing dresses. At Rumahia, a small village on the Euphrates, he lodged with two of his Mohammedan companions at the house of a Soonnee, who happened to be the mooHah of a mosque. Soon 29 i •"••V 334 CARSTEN NIEBUnn. after their arrival, our traveller entered into conversation with his host, and their discourse turning on the subject of mar- riage, he observed, among other things, that in Europe, a man, when he gives his daughter to any one in wedlock, is generally accustomed to add a considerpbio sum of money. This cus- tom greatly delighted the moollah. " Do you hear," says he to his mother-in-law, who was sitting near him, while the daughter was preparing their pilau^ — " do you hear what the stranger is saying? It was not thus that you acted towards me, my mother; I was compelled to pay you a sum of money before you would give me your daughter!" The mother-in- law, after patiently hearing him to the end, replied, "Ah ! my son, upon what should I and my daughter have subsisted, had I given thee my field and my date trees 1" This slight inter- luption in the conversation having ceased, Niebuhr, rcsuminf; the thread of the discourse, remarked, that in Europe no mrn could possess more than one wife, under pain of death ; that married persons enjoyed every thing in common; and that their property descended to their children. . It was now the old lady's turn to be eloquent. "Well, my son," says she, have you marked what the gentleman has just related ? Ah! what justice prevails in those countries ! Ah ! had you no other wife than my daughter, and could I be sure you would never divorce her, how willingly would I relinquish to you my house, and all I possess !" The young woman, who had hith- erto seemed to pay no attention to what was said, now likewise joined in the discussion. "Alas! my husband!" said she, "how cnn you desire that my mother should give you her house ? You would soon bestow it upon your other wives, ou love them better tho^i me. I see you so seldom !" The mother and daughter proceeded in this way for some time, and at length Niebuhr, turning to the inoollnh, ciemanded how many wives he had. "Four," replied the mixn. This was the highest number permitted by the law. He had, there- fore, indulged his affections to the utmost; and as each of hib spouses had a separate house and garden, he flitted at pleasure from wife to wife, and was everywhere received ns a man re- turning home from a long journey. Out traveller inquired of this zealous polygamist whether his privato happiness had been increased or diminished by his having availed himself of the priviiege of a Mohammedan ; but, because his reply was con- trary to his own European views, as that of every other Mus- sulman, whom he had questioned on the subject, had been, he absurdly accused him of insincerity. From this place he proceeded to Meshed Ali^ where he was deterred from entering the mosque, by the fear that he might, f r- *• CARSTEN NIEBUBR. 335 as a punishment for his presumption, be compelled to profess Mohammedanism ; but he admired tlie exterior of its g.ided dome, which glittered like a globe of flame in the sun. The riches of this mosque, allowing much for the exaggeration of the Shiahs, must still be immense. The interior of the dome is no less superbly gilt than the exterior, and is adorned with Arabic inscriptions in rich enamel ; other inscriptions, in let- ters of gold, glitter along the walls ; while enormous candela- hra, in silver and fine gold, set with jewels, support the tapers which afford light to the pious during the darkness of the night. This accumulation of gorgeous ornaments, though supplied from a commendable motive, affects the worshippers injuriously, and once occasioned a pious Arab to exclaim, " Verily, the treasures lavished upon this tomb liave made me forget God!" JViebuhr next visited the ruins of Kufa, and Meshed Hus- sein, and then returned to Hillah, near which are found the misshapen ruins of Babylon. We must not, as he justly ob- serves, expect to find among the remains of this city anything resembling the sublime magnificence which cast a halo over the ruins of Persian and Egyptian cities. Babylon, like modern London, was a city of bricks, prodigious in extent, mighty in appearance, but calculated, from the nature of its materials, to give way, when war or *ime laid its giant hands upon its towers. Its very site is now become an enigma, "a place for the bittern, and pools of water." Modern travellers, however, have since visited this celebrated spot, and described it so frequently, that it is unnecessary to pause and repeat what they have written, particularly as no two agree upon any one point. His stay at Babylon was brief, and on the 5th of January, 1766, he left it to proceed towards Bagdad, where he remain- ed until the 3d of March, awaiting the departure of a caravan for Syria. At length, finding no better companions, he de- parted with a kafilah composed wholly of Jews, from one of whom who had travelled much in the country, he expected to derive considerable information. He still posses.- r>d the sul- tan's firman, which he had procured at Constantinople, and hud likewise provided himself with a passport from the Pasha of Bagdad. He therefore anticipated no interruption on the way. In proceeding from Bagdad to Mousul, he traversed fhe plain on which the great battle of Arbela, which reduced Persia to a Macedonian province, was gained by Alexander. Ruin and desolation have since that day been busily at work in these countries. Among the vagabonds who now roam over or vegetate upon these renowned scenes, are a ftrange .,^^. .».t ^ 396 CAS8TEN NIEBUHR. people, accused bjrmany writers of worshiping the devil ; I mean the Yezeedis^ who, though suspected by Niebuhr of be- ing an offshoot from the Beyazi sect of Oman, appear to be rather the descendants of the ancient Manicheeans, or a rem- nant of the Hindoo population, worshippers of Siva, hurled into this obscure haunt by the storms of war. • At Mousul, where he found numerous Catholic and Nesto- rian Christians, he was received with extreme scorn, because his worthy coreligionists learned that he did not fast during Lent. However, by allowing himself to be defrauded a little by a Dominican father, a dealer in coins and physic, he quick- ly regained his character, and, during the remainder of his stay, was reputed a very good Christian. From this city he departed with a numerous caravan, bound partly for Aleppo, partly for Mardin, Orfah, or Armenia. The whole number of the travellers, including a guard of fifly soldiers, and about three or four hundred Arabs, amounted to little less than a thousand men. Yet, notwithstanding their numbers, the slightest report of there being a horde of Kurds in their neigh- bourhood threw these gallant warriors into consternation, and, upon one particular occasion, their confusion was so extreme that, like the honest knight of La Manch;i, they mistook a flock of sheep for an army. The robbers on this road are exceedingly expert in their vocation ; and one of the mer- chants of the caravan, who had often travelled by this route, amused Niebuhr with an anecdote illustrative of their skill, which deserves to be repeated : — He was one night encamped, he said, on the summit of a steep hill, and for the greater secu- rity had pitched his tent on the edge of the precipice. He himself kept watch until midnight, at which time he was re- lieved by his servant, who, as it would appear, soon fell asleep. On awaking about daybreak, he observed a robber in the tent. He had already fastened the hook, wi'.h which he meant to perform his feat, in a bale of merchandise; but sprang out of the tent, upon perceiving he was discovered, still holding fast the cord of his hook. The merchant, however, immediately detached the hook from the bale, and fastened it in the clothes of his slumbering domestic, who, as the robber continued tugging violently at the cord, was soon roused. The robber pulled, the servant rolled along like a woolsack, and the master had the satisfaction of seeing him tumble down to the bottom of the hill, that he might in future be somewhat more careful of his master's property. Niebuhr himself, whose cautious temper generally defended him from danger, had on this journey a trifli ^ adventure with an Arab sheikh. It entered into the head of this fiery young ''IT'- » »■ v^- CARSTBN NIBBUIIR. 837 Islamite that it would be amusing to have a frolic with a Giaour, and for this purpose he deprived our traveller of his bed and counterpanes. Niebuhr complained to the caravan bashi, but could only get a portion of his property restored. Next day, therefore he applied to the sheikh himself, who, instead of re- turnirg the articles, only jested with him upon his uncharitable disposition, which would not allow him to share his luxuries, even for a few days, with a true believer, who was willing to be condescending enough to sleep on the bed of an infidel. Our traveller, hoping to terrify the Arab, now produced the sultan's firman, and the Pasha of Bagdad's passport; but this only rendered matters worse. " Here in the desert," said the sheikh, "Jam thy sultan and thy pasha. Thy papers have no au- thority with me!" Some days afterward, however, the Arab returned him his etfects, from fear, according to Niebuhr, of the Governor of Mardin ; but more probably because he had never intended to retain them. From this point of his travels he proceeded by way of Mar- din, Diarbekr, and Orfah, to Aleppo, where he arrived on the 6th of June. Here he remained some time, during which he acquired the friendship of the celebrated Dr. Patrick Russel, from whom he received much information respecting the Kurds and Turkomans, whose principal chiefs frequently visited Russel at his house. His inquiries likewise extended to the Nassaireah and Ismaeleah, who, from the accounts of the Mohammedans and oriental Christians, would appear to have preserved among them the rites and ceremonies of the ancient worshippers of Venus. Nocturnal oro^ies, in which every man chose his mistress in the dark, ai hn adoration of the Yoni, in a young woman who exposed In rself naked for the purpose of receiving this extravagant reverence, %\ ere likewise attributed to them ; but, as Niebuhr observes, there is nothing too absurd or abominable to be related by the orthodox and dominant party of a persecuted and heretical sect. He, in fact, found that the Roman Catholics everywhere in the East represented their Protestant brethren as persons who liv- ed without hope and without God in the world ; while we, on the other hand, look upon them as idolaters, as far removed as the pagans of old from the pure religion of Christ. After the death of his companions, Niebuhr had applied to the Danish government for permission to extend his journey in the East, and, through the benevolence of Count BernstorflT, his wishes had been readily complied with. He therefore passed from Syria into Cyprus, for the purpose of copying certain Phenician inscriptions at Cittium, the birth-place of Zeno, which had, it was suspected, been incorrectly copied by Po* 29* • -rt> 338 CAR8TEN NIBBUHB. cocke. Finding no inscriptions of the kind on the spot to winch he had been directed, he, with an illiberality which was iiot4!oniinon with him, imputed to Pococke the gross absurditr of having confounded Armenian with Phenician characters; but, as his recent biographer remarks, it is more probable that the stones had, in the interval, been removed. From Cyprus he passed over into Palestine, visit«>d Jerusa- lem, Sidon, Mount Lebanon, and Damascus, and then return- ed to Aleppo. Here he continued until the 20th of November, 1766, when he set out with a caravan for Brusa, in Asia Minor; and in traversing the table-land of Mount Taurus, suffered, aaya one of his biographers, as much from frosts, piercing winds, and snow-drifts, as he could have done iti a winter journey in northern regions. Lofty mountains are every- where cold. Chardin nearly perished among the snows of Mount Caucasus ; Don Ulloa suffered severely from the same cause in the Andes, almost directly under the equator; and the lofty range of the Himmalaya, which divides Hindostau from Tibet, is so excessively cold, that Baber Khan, though a soldier and a Tartar, beheld with terror the obstacle which these mountains presented to his ambition ; and their summits hav'3 hitherto been protected by cold from human intrusion. Upon reaching Brusa, however, he reposed himself for some time, and then set out for Constantinople, where he arrived on the 20th of February, 1767. Here he remained three or four months, studying the insti- tutions of the empire, civil and military. He then directed his course through Roumelia, Bulgaria, Wallachia, and Molda- via, towards Poland, and on arriving at Warsaw was received with extraordinary politeness by King Stanislaus Poniatowsky, with whom he afterward corresponded for many years. From Warsaw be continued his journey towards Copenhagen, and visited on the way Gottingen and his beloved native place, wben the death of his mother's brother, during his absence, had left him in possession of n considerable marsh-farm. He arrived at Copenhagen in Nov* mber, and was received in the mbst flattering manner by the court, the ministers, and men of aCHsnce. Niebuhr now employed himself in preparing his various works for publication. The "Description of Arabia" was published in 1772, and although it must unquestionably be re- garded as one of the most exact and copious works of the kind ever composed on any Asiatic country, it met with but a cold reception from the public. This, howeve is not at nil surpri- sing.. Written in the old style of books of travels, which ap- pear to have aimed at imparting instruct «>n without at all in- # CARSTEN NIEBUHB. 339 teresting the imagination^ it can never be relished by the gene< rality of readers, who at all times, and especially in these latter ages, have required to be cheated into knowledge by the secret but irresistible charms of composition. Niebuhr, unfortunate- ly, possessed in a very limited degree the art of nn author. His style has nothing of that life and vivacity which compen- sates, in many writers, for the want of method. But those who neglect his works on these accounts are to be pitied ; for they abound with information, and everywhere exhibit marks of a remarkable power of penetrating into the character and motives of men, and a noble, manly benevolence, which generally in- clines to a favourable, but just intei*pretation. He understood the Arabs better than almost any other traveller, and his opin- ion of them upon the whole was remarkably favourable. It is to liim, therefore, that in an attempt to appreciate the charac- ter of this extraordinary people, I would resort, in preference even to Volney, who, whatever might be the perspicuity of his mind, had far fewer data whereon to found his conclusions. In 1773 he married, and his wife bore him two children, a (laughter and B. G. Niebuhr, the author of the " Roman His- tory." Next year the first volume of his " Travels" appeared, and was received by the public no less coldly than the "De- scription of Arabia ;" which was, perhaps, the cause why the second volume was not published until 1778 ; and why the third, which would have completed his "Travels'" history, was never laid before the world, or even prepared for publica- tion. This is exceedingly to be regretted, as, whatever may be the defects of Niebuhr as an author, he was, as an observer, highly distinguished for sagacity ; and his account of Asia Minor would have been still valuable, notwithstanding aU that has since been written on that country. He continued to live at Copenhagen for ten years ; bnt at length the retirement of Count Bernstorf from the ministry, and a report that General Huth designed to despatch him into Norway for the purpose of making a geographical survey of that country, disgusted him with the capital. He therefore demanded of the government permission to exchange his mili- tary for a civil appointment, and accordingly obtained the situation of secretary of the district of Meldorf, whither he re- moved his family in the year 1778. This town afforded Nie- buhr few opportunities of entering into society. He conse- quently endeavoured to extract from solitude and Irom study the pleasures which he could not take in the company of man- kind, and addicted himself to gardening and books. When his children had reached an age to require instruction, he un- dertook to conduct their edacatioa himself **He instructed 34» OARSTEN NIBBVHB. US," sajs his son, ** in geography, and related to us many pas- •ages of history. He taught me English and French — ^better at any rate, than they would have been taught by anybody else in such a place ; and something of mathematics, in which he would have proceeded much further, had not want of zeal and desire in me unfortunately destroyed all his pleasure in the occupation. One thing, indeed, was characteristic of his whole system of teaching: as he had no idea how anybody could have knowledge of any kind placed before him, and not seize it with the greatest avidity, and hold to it with the steadiest perseverance, he became disinclined to teach whenever we appeared inattentive or reluctant to leorn. As the first in- struction I received in Latin, before I had the good fortune to become a scholar of the learned and excellent Jager, was very defective, he helped me, and read with me " Ctesar's Com- mentaries." Here again, the peculiar bent of his mind show- ed itself: he always called my attention much more strongly to the geography than the history. The map of Ancient Gaul by D'Anville, for whom he had the greatest reverence, always lay before us. I was obliged to look out every place as it oc- curred, and to tell its exact situation. His instruction had no pretensions to be grammatical ; his knowledge of the lan- guage, so far as it went, was gained entirely by reading, and by looking at it as a whole. He was of opinion that a man did not deserve to learn what he had not principally worked out for himself; and that a teacher should be only a helper to assist the pupil out of otherwise inexplicable difficulties. From these 'causes his attempts to teach me Arabic, when he had already lost that facility in speaking it without which it is im- possible to dispense with grammatical instruction, to his disap- pointment and my shame, did not succeed. When I afterward taught it myself, and sent him translations from it, he was greatly delighted. "I have the most lively recollection of many descriptions of the structure of the universe, and accounts of eastern coun* tries, which he used to tell me instead of fairy tales, when he took me on his knee before f went to bed. The history of Mohammed; of the first califs, particularly of Omar and Ali^ for whom he had the deepest veneration ; of the conquests and spread of Islamism ; of the virtues of the heroes of the new ftiith, and of the Turkish converts, were imprinted on my childish imagination in the liveliest colours. Historicol works on these same subjects were nearly the first books that fell into my hands. " I recollect, too, that on the Christmas-eve of my tenth year, hf way of making the day one of peculiar solemnity and re-> - ;- ^ \^ CAR8TEN NIEBVHB. 341 joieing to me, he went to a beautiful chest containing his man^ uscripts, which was regarded by us children, and indeed by the whole household, as a kind of ark of the covenant ; took out the papers relating to Africa, and read to me from them. He had taught me to draw maps, and with his encouragement and assistance I soon produced maps of Habbesh and Soudan. '^I could not make him a more welcome birthday present than a sketch of the geography of eastern countries, or transla- tions from voyages and travels, executed as might be expect- ed from a child. He had originally no stronger desire than that I might be his successor as a traveller in the East. But the influence of a very tender and anxious mother upon ray physical training and constitution, thwarted his plan, almost as soon as it was formed. In consequence of her oppc~'. i n, my father afterward gave up all thoughts of it. "The distinguished kindness he hud experienced from the English, and the services which he had been able to render to the East India Company, by throwing light upon the higher part of the Red Sea, led him to entertain the idea of sending me, as soon as I was old enough, to India. With this scheme, which, plausible as it was, he was afterward as glad to see frustrated as I was myself, many things, in the education he gave me, were intimately connected. He taught me, by pre- ference, out of E' rlish books, and put English works, of all sorts, into my h- 1 At a very early age he gave me a regu- lar supply of English newspapers : circumstances which I re- cord here, not on account of the powerful influence they have had on my maturer life, but as indications of his character." In the winter of 1788 he received from Herder a copy of his " Persepolis," which afforded him one proof that he was not forgotten by his countrymen. He took a deep interest in the war which was then raging against Turkey ; for, in proportion to his love for the Arabs, was his hatred of the Turks, whom he cordially desired to see expelled from Europe. The Freilch expedition to Egypt, however, was no object of gratification to him ; for his dislike of the French was as strong as his dis- like of the Turks, convinced that their absurd vanity and want of faith would infallibly neutralize the good eflfects even of the revolution itself. The account given by his distinguished son of the latter days of this meritorious traveller is worthy of finding a place here. " His appearance," says he, " was calculated to leave a deUghtful picture in the mind. All his features, us well as his extinguished eyes, wore the expression of the extreme and the exhausted old age of an extraordinarily robust nature. It was impossible to behold a more venerable sight. So venera- 342 CARSTEN NIEBUHR. ble was it, that a Cossack who entered an unbidden guest into the chamber where he sat with his silver locks uncovered, was so struck with it, that he manifested the greatest reverence for him, and a sincere and cordial interest for the whole house- hold. His sweetness of temper was unalterable, though he often expressed his desire to go to his final home, since all which he had desired to live for had been accomplished. " A numerous, and as yet unbroken, family circle was as- sembled around him ; and every day in which he was not assailed by some peculiar indisposition he conversed with cheerfulness and cordial enjoyment on the happy change which had taken place in public affairs. We found it very delightful to engage in continued recitals of his travels, which he now related with peculiar fulness and vivacity. In this manner he once spoke much and in great detail of Persepolis, and described the walls on which he had found the inscriptions and bas-reliefs, exactly as one would describe those of a build- ing visited within a few days and familiarly known. We could not conceal our astonishment. He replied, that as he lay in bed, all visible objects shut out, the pictures of what he had beheld in the East continually floated before his mind's eye, so that it was no wonder he could speak of them as if he had seen them yesterday. With like vividness was the deep in- tense sky of Asia, with its brilliant and twinkling host of stars, which he had so often gazed at by night, or its lofty vauk of blue by day, reflected in the hours of stillness and darkness on his inmost soul ; and this was his greatest enjoyment. In the beginning of winter he had another ble Mng at the nose, so violent that the bystanders expected his death ; but this also he withstood. "About the end of April, 1815, the long obstruction in his chest grew much M'orse ; but his friendly physician alleviated the symptoms, which to those around him appeared rather painful than dangerous. Towards evening on the 26th of April, 1815, he was read to as usual, and asked questions which showed perfect apprehension and intelligence ; he then sunk into a slumber, and departed without a struggle.*' Niebuhr had attained his eighty-second year. He was a man rather below than above the middle size, but robust in make, and exceedingly oriental in air and gestures. As might be clearly enough inferred from his works, he was no lover of poetry ; for, though he is said to have admired Homer in the German translation of Voss, tcgether with the Herman and Doiothea of Goethe, this migh< be accounted for upon a differ- ent principle. His imagination, however, was liable to be sometimes excited in a very peculiar way. " It is extraordina- K :* CARSTEN NIEBUHR. 343 ry," says his son, "that this man, so remarkably devoid of imagination, so exempt from illusion, waked us on the .night in which his brother died, though he was at such a distance that he knew not even of his illness, and told us that his brother was dead. What had appeared to him, waking or dreamin^T, be never told us." ^^^y , ¥.■■ ' c >. JOHN BELL. Bell seems to have been born about the year 1690, at Antermony, in Scotland. He was possessed, even from his earliest years, by a strong passion for travel; but his passion, together with a large portion of shrewdness and sagacity, con- stituting the better part of his inheritance, he judiciously ap- plied himself to the study of medicine and surgery, a know- ledge of which, in all semi-barbarous countries, is frequently of more avail to the traveller even than wealth. It does not appear whether Bell was directed in the choice of his scene by preference or by chance. However, as all Europe was at that period filled with admiration of the projects of Peter the First, whose reputation for munificence drew crowds of adventurers by a species of magnetic attraction towards the north, it is probable that a desire of personal aggrandizement united with a thirst of knowledge in urging our traveller in the direc- tion of Petersburg. But be this as it may, having obtained from several respectable persons recommendatory letters to Dr. Areskine, chief physician and privy counsellor to the czar Peter the First, he emuarked at London in July, 1714, for St. Petersburg. On his arrival he was received in a very friendly manner by Dr. Areskine, to whom he communiAited his inten- tions of availing himself of the first opportunity which should offer of visiting some portions of Asia. The desired occasion soon presented itself. The czar, preparing at this period to send an embassy into Persia, appointed Aremy Petrovich Valensky, a captain of the guards, to conduct the mission ; and this gentleman applying to Dr. Areskine to recommend him a medical attendant, Bell was immediately brought for- ward by his countryman, and received, on his favourable tes- timony, into the ambassador's suite. Through the same in- terest, be was likewise at once formally introduced into th« service of the czar. ••.,ir' v w'^ ■•» iOHN BELL. 346 Bell set out from Petersburg on the 15tli of July, 1715, ac> companied by n part of the ambassHclor's suite, and for some time directing his course along the western bank of the Neva, encamped in the evening on a small stream which falls into that river, and passed the night in a wagon. Next day they embarked on the Volchovu, the banks of which were covered with villages and fruitful cornfields, interspersed with woods, and continued their journey by water until they approached Novogorod, where they quitted their "moving ••oad," as Pascal terms a river, and proceeded on horseback. At Iver, Bell be- held the mighty stream of the Volga, the navigation of which from this town to the Caspian Sea is interrupted by no cataract, and whose waters abound with an extraordinary variety of the finest fish in the world. From this place they proceeded towards the ancient capital of the empire, through a plain but agreeable country, covered with rich harvests, which infallibly produce a pleasing effect upon the mind, and dotted with small tufted groves, the ver- dure of which contrasted admirably with the yellow grain waving at their feet. On reaching the village from which the first view of Moscow was obtained. Bell observes, that " at this distance few cities in the world make a finer appearance, for it stands on a rising ground, and contains many stately churches and monasteries, whose steeples and cupolas are generally covered either with copper gilt or tin plates, which shine like gold and silver in the sun." The Kremlin, to which Bishop Heber was fond of comparing some of the old Mohammedan edifices of Hindostan, appears to have excited no very particular admiration in Bell, who merely observes that it was compounded of a number of build- ings added to one another at different times, and that sonic of the apartments were remarkably spacious. Here they em- barked on the Moskwo, and dropping slowly down the stream, entered the Volga a little below Nishna. The river at this place is of very great breadth, and, the wind blowing from the north, they were driven along with prodigious velocity. Signs of the approach of winter now began to appear, for it was the latter end of October ; the Volga was suddenly filled with floating ice, which, united with its powerful current, and the force of the wind, rendered their position exceedingly danger- ous. They, however, continued their voyage, and arrived on the 3d of November at Zabackzar, a considerable town on the right bank of the river, a little above Kazen. In this part of Russia, according to Bell, the best and largest falcons in the world are caught, which being highly vulifie^ fi^r tbfeir strength and beauty, partioulurly by the Turks and l^r- 30 *: -IF'*:' I Ik.- '• 846 lOBN BILL. siani, are sold to those nations at extravagant prices. The? are not, as might have been expected, taken from the nest ; but after they are full grown, when their natural instincts have been developed by exercise, and their physical powers have acquired, by struggling with storms and tempests, their utmost maturity and vigour. They are then taught to fly at swans, geese, herons, hares, and even antelopes ; and our traveller saw one of them take a wild duck out of the water when nothini; but her bill, which she had put up for air, could be perceived. M^ny of these falcons arc as white as doves. Bell afterward sav; in Kudistan the beautiful species of hawk called cherkk, which the Persians and Arabs train for antelope liuntiiiir. This is done by stufling the skin of one of these animals, and plaeing the food of the hawk between its horns, which afterward, when the bird comes to be employed in the chase, induces it to pounce upon the head of the antelope, and either strike it to the ground, or retard its movements until the greyhounds come up. Sir John Malcolm, who witnessed this singular sport at Abusheher, observes that "the huntsmen proceed tea I?rge plain, or rather desert, near the seaside; they have hawks and greyhounds, the former carried in the usual man- ner on the hand of the huntsman, the latter led in a leash by a horseman, generally the same who carries the hawk. When the antelope is seen they endeavour to get as near as possible; but the animal, the momenf: it observes them, goes off at a rate that seems swifter than the wind; the horses are instantly at full speed, having slipped the dogs. If it is a single deer they at the same time fly the hawks; but if a herd, they wait till the dogs have fixed upon a particular antelope. The hawks, skimming along near the ground, soon reach the deer, at whose head they pounce in succession, and sometimes with a violence that knocks it over." The Persian style of hare hunting, which few travellers have noticed, is scarcely less interesting, and is thus described by Sir John Malcolm. " When at Shirez the elchee (ambas- sador) had received a present of a very line shah-baz, or royal falcon. Before going out I had been amused at seeing Nuttec Beg, our head falconer, a man of great experience in his de- partment, put upon this bird a pair of leathers, which he fitted to its thighs with as much care as if he had been the tailor of a fashionable horseman. I inquired the reason of so unusual a proceeding. 'You will learn that,' said the consequential master of the hawks, 'when you see our sport;' and I was convinced, at the period he predicted, of the old fellow's know- ledge of his business. The first hare seized by the falcon was very strong, and the ground rough. While the bird kept the i s. JOHN BELL. 347 claws of one foot fastened in the back of its prey, the other was dragged along the ground, till it had an opportunity to lay hold of a tufl of grass, by which it was enabled to stop the course of the hare, whose efforts to escape, I do think, would have torn the hawk asunder, if it had not been provided with the leathern defences which have been mentioned. The next time the falcon was flown gave us proof of that extraordinary courage which its whole appearance, and particularly its eye, denoted. It had stopped and quite disabled the second hare by the first pounce, when two greyhounds, which had been slipped by mistake, came up, and endeavoured to seize it. They were, however, repulsed by the falcon, whose boldness and celerity in attacking the dogs, and securing its prey, ex- cited our admiration and astonishment." Bell was informed of a circumstance, while travelling in Kurdistan, which raises atill higher our admiration of the falcon's courage ; for it is trained by the Tartars to fly at foxes and even wolves. But to return to the Volga : On arriving on the 5th of No- vember at Kazan, they found that the winter had set in, that the Volga was filled with floating ice, and that, therefore, since the nations inhabiting both banks of the river were hostile to Russia, or cxtrcmclj barbnrous in their manners, it would be necessary to defer the prosecution of their journey until the following spring. This affbrded Bell ample leisure for the onductingof his researches into the manners, character, and religion of the neighbouring tribes. Here he found two Swe- dish generals, Hamilton and Rosen, taken prisoners at the battle of Pultowa, and exiled by the barbarous policy of the czar to these remote regions ; but, excepting that they were exiles, they had no great reason to complain of their treatment, for they were allowed to share in whatever amusements and pleasures the place aflTorded, and were by no means subjected to a rigorous confinement. It was not until the beginning of June that they were enabled to continue their voyage. They then began once more to de- scend the stream, which they did with great velocity; and making a short stay c* Samara and Astrakhan, proceeded on their voyage, entered he Caspian, and on the 30th of August arrived at Niezabad, where, there being neither harbour nor creek, they hauled up their flat-bottomed vessels on the beach. Here an accident occurred to one of Bell's coinpanions, which strikingly illustrates the facility with which the imagination, when strongly excited, overthrows the other faculties of the mind. The ship in which the secretary of the embassy was embarked did not arrive until several hours after the others had been drawn on shore, by which time the wind had begun 348 JOHN BELL. to blow with great violence, ^hile the sea broke tremendously upon the beach. Not being able under such circumstances to reach the land, they at first cast anchor in the open road • but the gale increasing, even this position was considered dan- gerous, so that they quickly slipped their coble and put out to sea. The secretary and the other gentlemen on board, how- ever, not greatly admiring their situation, and willing, from their extreme impatience to be once more on terra firma, to run even a considerable risk in endeavouring to effect their purpose, ordered the master of the ship, a Dutchman in the service of the czar, to run her ashore at all hazards, engaging themselves to be accountable for the consequences. But when the ship had approached within a certain distance of the land, the sea ran so high that no boat could be hoisted out. The secretary's fear of the sea increasing with the obstacles to his landing, he at length prevailed upon a sailor, at the peril of his life, to carry him ashore on his back, which, in spite of all difficulties, the man actually performed ; " but his clothes being drenched with salt-water, and the road lying through deep sands, he was soon fatigued, and therefore retired nearer to the woods, in hopes of finding a more smooth and easy path. He discovered what lie sought ; but instead of leading him to the ships, it carried him away from the shore, and the right course, into thick encumbered wood ; and in these circum- stances night overtook him, utterly ignorant of the dismal and dangerous wild into which he had wandered. Thus destitute of nil assistance, he climbed a tree to save himself from the wild beasts with which these woods abound; and in this situa- tion continued all the night, and till noon the next day ; for the people in his own ship never doubted of his having safely reached our tents ; while we, on the contrary, had not the least suspicion of his having come on shore. At last, however, about noon, his servant came, inquiring for his master, who, he told us, left the ship the night before. This account filled us all with anxiety and apprehension ; as we certainly conclu- ded he would be torn to pieces by the wild beasts, or murdered by the savages who inhabit this coast. Immedidle order waH given for all our people to repair to the woods m search of him. He was at last found wandering from pith to path, without knowing one direction from another. When he came to the tents he looked ghastly and wild, and related many strange stories of what he had beard in the night. All possi- ble care was taken to alleviate his distress. During his sleep, which was very discomposed, he often started, groaned, and spoke; and even after he awaked, he persisted in affirming that there were numbers of people round the tree in the night, ■S-f. v-i JOHN BELL. 349 talking different languages. The imagination, no doubt, will naturally have a strong effect on any man in such uncommon circumstances ; for, though the secretary was a man of pene- tration and sound judgment, in vain did we endeavour to un- deceive him, by representing that it was nothing but the jackals which Aiade the noise he had heard." In fact, he never re- covered his former sagacity and soundness of mind : and the accident may even be supposed to have hastened his death, wliich took place not long afterward. From Niezabad they proceeded to Shamakia, where the in- habitants, to whom the Muscovites were novelties at that time, crowded the tops of their houses to behold them. The time of their stay was spent in the way usual with ambassadors; that is, in attempts of politeness, affecting state, and in disputes with the Khan of Shamakia. At length, however, all these were ended, and they departed. The suite of the ambassador was numerous; for in the East a man's dignity is estimated by the camel-loads of people at his heels: one hundred and sixty camels, nearly two hundred horses and mules, which, if common sense were constituted judge of the matter, would be thought amply sufficient to bear the czar's compliments and a letter to the shah. On entering Kurdistan, Bell, from whose mind the " rugged Russian bears," jackals, and other nuisances, had not chased away all classical reminiscences, seems to have experienced some pleasure at the idea of traversing, though in a contrary direction, the same track which was pursued by Xenophon and the Ten Thousand in their retreat from Babylonia. The Kurds, the ancient Karduchi, were still, he says, reckoned a brave people ; and, in fact, would be extremely disposed, if any thing were to be gained by it, to harass any body of men, whether small or great, who passed through their country. On the day before they arrived at Tabriz they crossed a ridge of mountains, from which, as he was informed by an Armeni- an, the snowy peaks of Ararat, or Agri Dag, might be seen in clear weather. From Tabriz they set out in the heart of winter, the country being covered with deep snow, and the roads, in consequence, almost impassable. The bright reflection of the sunbeams from the snow produced an extraordinary effect upon the Rus- Biai s. Their faces swelled, and many of them were afflicted willi ophthalmia. But the Persians themselves are liable to the latter inconvenience, and, in order to guard against it, wear a network fillet of black horsehair over the eyes ; which Bell found, upon trial, to be an effectual preventive. This 30» I U S50 JOHN BELL. coDtrivance, I imagine, might be made use of with equal sue. cesf in traversing the sands of Egypt or Arabia. As thejr proceeded southward they quickly escaped from the regions of snow, and on reaching Sarva, a small town a little to the north of Koom, found the pomegranate-trees already ia blossom on the 22d of February. The Persians, at least that part of them who make any claim to civilization, are a pleasant people to travel among. For if, in classic lands, Not a mountain reared its head unsuug, no mountain, no, nor valley neither, rears or lowers its head without having some particular legend attached to it. Near Koom you are shown a hill from which no one who has been mad enough to reach the top ever descended ; and are told a lamentable story of a young page sent up with a lighted torch in his hand by Shah Abbas, who, of course, n^ver returned, but may yet perhaps come down with his torch unconsumed, upon the re-advent of the Twelfth Imnm. At Kashan your imagination is excited by being placed in apartments, the floors of which are almost paved with scorpions, the sting of every one of which is more deadly than the sword of Rustani, or the lance of Afrnsiab. But these reptiles, like the spear of Achil- les, undo, as it were, with one hand what they perform with the other ; for when they have darted their poison into the frame, they yield, on being caught and fried, though not alive, I hope, an oil which the Pp siuns reckoa an infallible antidote to their venom. The only advantage which seems to be de- rived from this energetic little reptile is, that it enriches the Persian language with a new variety of that rhetorical figure of speech called commination, or cursing; for when any per- son is desirous of concentrating his wrath in a single impreca- tion, instead of having recourse to that convenient but vulvar demon who takes our enemies oft* our hands in Europe, he arms his wishes with the sting oFa Kashan scorpion, and flings that at the head of his adversaries. The embassy arrived at Ispahan on the 14th of March; and the shah's court immediately put itself in training for a grand theatrical exhibition, in order to impress the barbarians Willi a fuvournble idea of the greatness of the Asylum of the Universe. While the stage decorations were preparing, our traveller, who entertained a reasonable respect for royal pomp and magnificence, employed himself in observing the city and its environs ; and when the important day came, accompanied the ambassador into the presence of the shah. \']\ery thing passed oflf in the usual style. Exhibitions of elephants capar- '4', 9> ,1, .'■■ ^ JOHN BELL. 351 uoned with gold and silver stiifTs ; lions led in massive chains of gold; twenty horses superbly caparisoned, having all their saddles and bridles ornamented with gold and silver, and set frith sapphires, emeralds, and other precious stones, while the stakes by which they were fastened, and the mallets with which those stakes were driven into the earth, were of solid gold : gucli were the sights beheld within the precincts of the palace. On the outside, however, poverty, ignorance, and starvation exhibited their gaunt, phantom visages among the crowd, gearing the eyeballs of those who were not too mucli dazzled hy the gorgeous apparatus of tyranny, to discover the real na- ture of the materials out of which they were forged. When the ambassador was presented to the shah, he made a speech to him in Russian; the *' Asylum of the Uni- verse" replied in Persian; and since neither of them under- stood one word of what was said to him by tlie other, their speeches must have been exceedingly interesting. However, a third person, "doctus utriusque lingua)," clothed the shah's ideas in Russian for the benetit of the ambassador, while he presented the thoughts of the latter, or at least something like them, to the shall, in the mellifluous language of Persia. AH this while music, which the traveller did not find inharmoni- ous, was played in the audience-chamber, and the mufti was reading aloud various portions of the Koran. Whether this was intended to show how indifferent, respecting all secular concerns, the holy men of Persia were, or to throw an air of religion over the transaction, or, finally, to exorcise all such devils as might be supposed to accompany such a rabble of Franks, Bell did not inquire; which, I think, was a great oversight. An entertainment, which all parties thought more agreeable than the speeches, followed next. The shah him- self, according to ancient usage, was served before his guests ; but the ambassador had the honor of being next attended to. Every article of the feast was served up in large gold or china dishes, but, according to the custom of the East, fingers were substituted for knives and forks, and these, as among the an- cient Greeks, were wiped with large thin cakes of bread, in- stead of napkins. The dinner to which they were shortly after invited by the keeper of the great seal, was more magnificent than that given them by the shah. " Soon after we entered," says Bell, " there were served u[> a great variety of sweetmeats, and all kinds of fruit that the climate afforded. Coffee and sherbet were carried about by turns. We were placed cross-leggeJ upon the carpets, except the ambassador, who had a seat. During this part of the feust we were entertained with vocal and in- *» I?' v,- X' 352 JOHN BELL. gtrumental music, dancing boys, tumblers, puppets, and jug- glers. All the performers executed their parts with great dex- terity. Two of them counterfeited a quarrel, one beat off the other's turban with his foot, out of which dropped about fifteen or twenty large serpents, which ran or crawled about the room. One of them came towards me with great speed, which soon obliged me to quit my place. On seeing us alarmed, they told us the creatures were altogether inoffensive, as their teeth had been all drawn out. The fellow went about the room and gathered them again into his turban, like so many eels. The victuals were now served in a neat and elegant manner. Every thing was well dressed in the Persian fashion. Our host was very cheerful, and contributed every thing in his power to please his guests. He excused himself handsomely enough for not having wine, as it was not then used at court. Two days after this the ambassador received intimation, that the business of the embassy being concluded, he might depart when he pleased ; but the Russ, who seems to have relished the pilaus of Ispahan, would have been better pleased to re- main where he was the whole year. However, it being clear that the disciples of Ali by no means participated in his feel- ings, he unwillingly prepared to encounter once more his native fogs and snows. They left Ispahan on the 1st of Sep- tember, and proceeded through Kasbin and Ghilan towards Shamakia. At Kasbin many of the ambassador's suit, and Bell among the number, were attacked by a pestilential fever, which appears to have been the plague ; but they all, except- ing one person, recovered. They, however, lost twenty-two of their number before they finally quitted the Persian do- minions. It being the depth of winter when the ambassador arrived at Shamakia, he resolved to remain there until the following summer; time, in his opinion, being of little value. Accord- ingly, it was not until the 2Gth of June that they embarked on the Caspian. Their journey homewards was long and tedi- ous; but they at length reached Petersburg on the 30th of December, 1718; having consumed nearly three years and a half in going to and returning from Ispahan. Bell observes that Peter, who was in the capital when they arrived, was said to be well satisfied with the conduct of his ambassador, whose principal business was to cultivate and cement amity and a good understanding between the two crowns of Russia and Persia. The city, notwithstanding the Swedish war, which had lasted nearly twenty years, had been greatly improved and adorned during his short absence ; and its appearance had been so greatly changed, that he could ' % ' L» '.'.*7 ^ JOHN BELL. 353 scarcely imagine himself, he says, in the same place. Other changes had likewise token place in that short interval. His friend Dr. Areskine was, he found, no more, having died about six weeks previous to his arrival. However, he was kindly received by his other friends, as well Russian as Eng- lish; and he mentions it as a circumstance worthy of remark, that he met among the former with many persons of much worth and honour. Captain Vulensky, the Persian ambassador, having con- tracted a friendship for him during their journey, continued to regard him with the same feelings after their return ; and when, on hearing that the czar was about to despatch an em- bassy to China, Bell expressed an ardent desire to accompany it, recommended him in such a manner to the ambassador. Captain Ismailoff, as not only procured his reception into the suite of the mission, but the friendship of that worthy man for die remainder of his life. Our traveller set out from Petersburg on his way to China on the 14th of July, 1719, and proceeded through Moscow to Kazan, where ho awaited tiie setting in of winter, the journey through Sibeii.'i beinor to be pprformed in sicagtcr. i>\.^ ^vr^. SwpHish fKfMiHrals who bad neen taken prisoners at Pultowa were still here, regretting, naturally enough, but unavailingly, their long detention from their native land. On the 24th of November, the snow having fallen sufficiently to smooth the roads, Bell and a portion of the ambassador's suit departed from Kazan. Their road lay through a fertile country, pro- ducing abundance of cattle, corn, and honey, and covered, in many places, by vast woods of tall oaks, fir, and birch. The beehives uspd here were of a remarkable form. The inhabi- tants, says Bell, take the trunk of a lime-tree, aspen, or any soft wood, of about five or six feet long ; having scooped it hollow, they make a large aperture in one side, about n foot in length and four inches broad ; they then fix cross rods with- in the trunk for the bees to build upon, r.nd having done this, close up the place carefully with a board, leaving small notch- es for the bees to go in and out. These hives are planted in proper places at the side of a wood, and tied to a tree with strong withes, to prevent their being destroyed by the bears, who are great devourers of honey. Bell learned, moreover, that the peasantry in these parts had a method of extracting the honey without destroying the bees; but the persons who gave him the information, described the process so indistinctly that he could not understand it. Their road now lay for many days through dark woods, interspersed at wide intervals with villages and cornfields. 354 JOHN BELL. The cold daily became more and more intense ; thick fo^ hung upon the ground ; the frost penetrated everywhere. The fingers and toes of those most exposed were frozen, and could only be restored to animation by being rubbed with snow. At length, on the 9th of December, they arrived at Solehampsky, famous for its great salt-works, which, if necessary, could not only have furnished all Russia, but several other countries also, with salt. Vast strata of salt-rocks seem here to extend on all sides at a certain distance from the surface. Pits are sunk to these rocks, and are quickly filled with water, which, being drawn off and boiled in large caldrons, the salt is deposited at the bottom. The vein of salt-rock sometimes runs under the river Kama> in which case it is reached by sinking wooden towers in the stream, as they do when building the piers of a bridge, and piercing through these to the nacessary depth. The salt woter then springs up, fills the wooden tower, and is - pumped off as before. Prodigious strata of this kind of rock traversing the bed of the ocean, may, perhaps, be the cause of the saltness of its waters. There are extensive mines of ev'^Hf^nt irnn-orp in the HnmA uuigiiuwuiiiuua, wiiwre is lilwi<4e found the usbustos fossil, from which the incombustible linen is manufiieturpd. The value of this laniferous stone is said to have been dis- covered by a sportsman, who, happening one day to be in want of wadding in the woods, and observing the threadlike fibres of this fossil, plucked some of them off for that use; and finding that the gunpowder had no effect upon them, commu- nicated the fact to others, whicii led to those inquiries and experiments by which its extraordinary properties were dis- covered. From Solekampsky they proceeded to theOural Mountains, which divide Russia from Siberia. These are covered in all directions by vast forests, excepting in a few va'leys where they have been felled by man, where our traveller found the land- scape beautiful even in the depth of winter. On descending their eastern slope into the plains, a milder prospect, woods, vil- lages, cornfields, and meadows, met the eye : but winter still reigned over all, binding up the streams, whirling his snow-drifts over the plain, or clothing the forests with frost and icicles. The fogs, however, had disappeared ; and as far as the eye could reach, all was snow below and sunshine above. On the 16th of December the gilded crosses and cupolas of Tobolsk were discovered, rising in the distance above the snowy plain ; and in the evening of the same day they found themselves agree- ably lodged within its walls. I V .. ■*^'««:v , JOHN BELL. 355 Here, as well as in most of the towns through which they bad passed, they found a number of Swedish officers of distinc- tion; among the rest Dittmar, secretory to Charles XII.; and Bell observes that they were permitted to enjoy a considerable share of liberty. They could walk about where they pleased, hunt in the woods, and even make long journeys to visit their countrymen at distant places. He, in fact, so indulgent to tyranny iiad his residence in Russia rendered him, thought "his majesty" was showing them an especial favour by can- toning them in those parts where they could live well nt a small expense, and enjoy all the liberty which persons in their cir- cumstances could expect. Whatever may be our opinion of the conduct of Peter, whom the chilLlish folly of some writers has denominated the Great^ it must be corifcEScd, that as far as his own interests were concerned, the exiling of these officers into Siberia was a judicious step, as it tended powerfully to civilize, that is, to render more taxable, the wild and ignorant inhabitants of that vast country. Several of the Swedish exiles were persons who had received a superior education. Not being able quickly to conform to the gross tastes of those who surrounded them, they therefore laboured by every means in their power to diffuse a relish for their own more liberal preferences ; and as they very fortunately reckoned painting and music, — arts which, addressing themselves partly to the senses, possess a certain charm even for savages, — among their accomplish- ments, they succeeded by their pictures and concerts in sub- duing the ferocity of their masters. Still further to extend their influence, they sometimes amused themselves with teach- ing a select portion of the youth of both sexes the French and German languages ; and as ingenuous youth has all the world over, a reverence for those who introduce it into the paths of knowledge, the purpose of the Swedes was amply accom- plished, and they enjoyed the affijction of powerful and hon- orable friends. To a sportsman the neighbourhood of Tobolsk aiTords end- less amusement. Here are found every species of game compatible with the nature of the climate: the urban, the heathcock,the partridge, which in winter turns white as a dove, woodcocks, snipes, and a prodigious variety of water-fowl. Vast flights of snowbirds which arc about the size of a lark, come to Siberia in autumn, and disappear in spring. In colour many of these birds are as white as snow, while others are speckled or brown. Bears, wolves, lynxes, several kinds of foxes, squirrels, ermines, sables, and m&rtins, abound in the woods. The ermines generally burrow io the open field, ,\ m., 356 JOHN DELL. ! where they are caught in traps baited with a morsel of flesh. These animals are caught only in winter, when their fur is white and most valuable. They turn brown in summer. The hares, likewise, and the foxes of these northern regions, imi- tate the chnngc'3 of mother earth ; and in winter are clad in furs resembling in colour the snows over which they run. During his stay at Tobolsk, Bell made numerous inquiries respecting the religion and manners of the Tartars itihahitintr the region lying between the Caspian and Mongolia; and learned, among other particulars, that in an ancient palace, the construction of which some attributed to Timour, others to Genghis Khan, there were preserved numerous scrolls of glazed paper, fairly written in many instances in gilt charac- ters. Some of these scrolls were said to be black, though the far greater number were white. They were written in the Kalmuck language. While our traveller was busy in these inquiries, a soldier suddenly presented himself before him in the street with a bundle of these scrolls in his hand ; which, as the man offered them for a small sum, he purchased, ami brought to England. They were here distributed among our traveller's learned friends ; and as Sir Hans Sloane was reck- oned among the immber, they will eventually find their way to the British Museimi. But whether or not any of them have as yet been translated, I have not been able to discover. Two similar scrolls sent by Peter I. to Paris, were immediately turned into French by the savaiis of that capital, to whom no language comes amiss, from that of the ancient Egyptians and Parsees to that of modern sparrows, and were said to be mere- ly a commission to a lama, or priest, and a form of prayer. Whether this interpretation iimy be depended on, says Bell, I shall not determine. On the 9ih of January, 1720, they set out from Toho'sk. Their road now led them through numerous Tartar villages, where the houses were constructed of wood and moss, with thin pieces of ice fixed in holes in the walls instead of win- dows. The whole country, as far as the eye could reach, consisted of level marshy grounds, sprinkled with lakes, and overgrown with tall woods of aspen, alder, willows, and other aquatic trees, among which our traveller remarked a species of large birch, with a bark as smooth and white as paper. Pursuing their journey with the utmost rapidity, they arrived on the 4th of February at Tomsk, where Bell, as usual, ira- xnediutely set on foot the most active inquiries respecting the neighbouring regions and their inhabitants. From the citadel of Tomsk, which is situated on an eminence, n chain of hilk is discovered towards the south, beyond wliich, ouf traveller •/.♦'■ / - JOHN BELL. 357 was informed, in a vast plain, many tombs and burying- places were found. Mis information throws much interesting light on a passage of Herodotus. This (^reat historian relates, in his fourth book, that wiicn the ancient Scythians interred their kins:, they wore accustomed to stranirle upon his body his favourite concubines, his cupbearer, his cook, and other favourite personages; and we leurn from other authors, that together with the bones of these, cups, vases, and other vessels of gold were deposited with the royul corpse in the tomb. Tliu tombs discovered in the great plains south of Tomsk in all probability were those of ancient Scythian chiefs ond kings; but if so, the spot must have been regarded as the com- mon cemetery of the race, to which the bodies of all persons above a certain rank were to be borne, for the number of bar- rows found there was immense. Numerous individuals annu- ally resorted hitiier from Tomsk and other places to search for treasure among these ancient graves, and they constantly found among the ashes of the dead large quantities of gold, silver, brass, and occasionally precious stones ; hilts of swords, armour, snddle-ornaments, bits, and horse-trappings, together with the bones of horses and elephants, were sometimes met with. From which Bell infers, that when any general or per- sou of distmction was interred, it was customary to bury all his arms, his favourite horse, and servant with him in the same grave ; and this practice prevails to this day, he adds, among the Kalmucks and other Tartars. He was shown several pieces of armour and other curiosities which were dug out of these tombs, particularly a small equestrian stotue of brass or bronze of no mean design or workmanship; together with figures of deer cast in pure gold, which were divided in the middle, and pierced by snmll holes, as if intended to be used 08 ornaments to a quiver, or to the furniture of a horse. In the woods of this part of Siberia there is a species of wild ass, strikingly resembling the African zebra, having their hair waved white and brown, like that of a tiger. Bell sn\y several of their skins. Numerous wild horses of a fine chesnut colour were likewise found, but could not, he says be tamed, even if taken when foals. The Kalmucks, however, continued to make some use of them ; for, not being able to ride, they killed and ate them, and used their skins as couches to sleep upon. Proceeding eastward from Tomsk they arrived in about a fortnight on the banks of the river Tongusta, where the coun- try on both sides being covered with impenetrable woods, it was necessary to make their way along the frozen stream, while the biting winds continued to whirl and drift about the 31 ^.' ■ I.' 358 JOHN BELL. gnow in their path. Occasionally singl*^ houses or small villa- ges were found upon the banks. One day, during their pro- gress along this river, they met a prodigious flock of hares, all as white as the snow on which they walked, slowly descending the stream ; and Bell was informed that these animals are frequently seen travelling south in much greater numbers. They were now in the country of the Tonguses, a people who have no fixed dwellings, but roam at pleasure through the woods, erecting where they make any stay a few spars, in- clining to each other above, and covering them with pieces of birchen bark sewed together, r.ith a small hole at the top. The men, however, are brave, and the women virtuous. They practise tattooing. Their religion consists in the worship of the sun and moon. Their dress is of fur. Their arms, the bow and arrow, the lance, and a species of hatchet. In winter they travel over the frozen snow with shoes, the soles of which are of wood, and about five feet in length, nnd five or six inches broad, inclining to a point before and square behind. The feet are slipped into a thong fastened in the middle ; and with these they can move over the deepest snow without sink- ing. But as these are suited onf ^o the plains, they have a different kind for ascending the lulls, with the skins of seals glued to the boards, having the hair inclining backwards, which prevents the sliding of the shoes. With these they dimb hills with the greatest facility, and having reached the summit, dart down the opposite slope with astonishing ra- pidity. Such are the great sable hunters of Siberia, who feed indif- ferently on the bear, the fox, and the wolf. The sables, says Bell, are not caught in the same manner as other animals. The fur is so tender, that the least mark of an arrow, or ruffling of the hair, spoils the sale of the skin. In hunting them they only use a little dog and a net. When a hunter discovers the track of a sable upon the snow, he follows it sometimes for several days unintermittingly, until the poor animal, quite tired, takes refuge in some tall tree, for it can climb like a cat. The ' hunter then spreads his net round the tree, and kindles a fire, • when the sable, unable to endure the smoke, immediately de- scends, and is caught in the net. These hunters, when hard pressed by hunger, have recourse to a practice analogous to that of many South Sea islanders under similar circumstances: taking two thin pieces of board, they place one on the pit of the stomach, the other on the back, and gradually drawing together the extremities, allay in some degree the cravings of appetite. The winters here are long, and the cold so intense, 'ithai the earth never thaws, even in summer, beyond two ftct ,v- c- i^. : '*, * j,^ ■ ■ •fi ■»•<■ * . ' 'f.'-'^ '• .♦ • ' . , , " ,' r^r- 'A7. ^ JOHN BELL. 359 and a half beIo^? the surface. When they dig to the depth of three feet for the purpose of burying their dead, they find the earth frozen: and in these graves the bodies remain uncon- sumed, and^ill do so, says the traveller, to the day of judg- ment. On the 17th of March, the weather, as they began to ap- proach the Baikal lake, changed so suddenly from winter to spring that they almost imagined themselves dropped imper- ceptibly into another climate. They therefore abandoned their sledges, which, as the snow was gone, were now become useless, and proceeded on horseback. Next day they arrived at Irkutsk on the river Angara. Here they remained until the I5tli of May, waiting for the melting of the ice on the lake ; and amusing themselves in the meanwhile with hunting, and observing the country and its inhabitants. When the season was thought to be sufficiently far advanced, they proceeded up the banks of the river, until they discovered the lake bursting out between two high rocks, and tumbling down over enormous stones, which lie quite across the channel of the river, which is here a mile in breadth. The sublimity of the scene, which is magnificent beyond description, is heightened exceedingly by the dashing and roaring of the waters, which impress the beholder with ideas of the irresistible power and grandeur of nature, the privilege to contemplate which elevates and enobles him in his own estimation. And this, in reality, is the principal source of the pleasure we de- rive from the view of stupendous mountains, the tempestuous ocean, cataracts, volcanoes, or conflagrations. They now embarked on the Baikal, which, as Gibbon face- tiously observes, disdains the modest appellation of a lake, and on receding from the land enjoyed a full prospect of its western shores, rising abruptly into rocky pinnacles capped with snow, and towering far above every thing around them. These stretched away immeasurably towards the north,' until they were lost in the distance. On the south t^e view was bounded by hills of gentler elevation, whose tops, for the most part, were covered with wood. Their passage was tedious, for on approaching the mouth of the Selinga they found the whole shore skirted by long reefs of floating icebergs, between which they forced their way with considerable difficulty. How- ever, they at length entered the Selinga, and ascending partly in their boats and partly on horseback along its banks, arrived safely at Selinguisky on the 29th of May. At this town, which, like the ancient Chalcedony on the Bosphorus, may be termed the " City of the Blind," being built upon an inconvenient spot in the neighbourhood of an Mr •** 360 JOHN BELL. ^, excellent one, they were to remain until the court of Pekin, which had been informed of their approach, should send an officer to conduct them over the frontiers. In the mean time every person amused himself according to hil taste. Our honest and intelligent traveller, as he is very properly denomi- nated by Gibbon, whose chief pleasure consisted in observing the manners of mankind, hud here an ample field before him, in a variety of characters nfTording the most striking moral contrasts, from the Hindoo Yoghee, who bought live fishes on the banks of a stream in order to enjoy the pleasure of setting them swimming again, to the fierce, tough-nerved Mongol, who could view death, whether inflicted on man or beast, without exhibiting the least horror or emotion. With one of the chiefs of this warlike nation, who, by temperance and exercise, had contrived to reach his eightieth year with much of the vigour and energy of youth about him, they had a splendid hunting match, w hich, as conducted by the Tartars, may justly, as our great historian remarks, be considered as the image and the school of war. The Chinese, who are as dilatory in their movements as the ancient Spartans, allowed them ample time to amuse them- selves, for it was not until the 24th of August that their con- ductor arrived. On the 8th of September they departed, and arriving in a few days on the banks of ihe Saratzyn, the small rivulet which divides the Russian empire from Chinese Mon- golia, But these between a silver strenmlet glides, And scarce a name distingnisheth the brook, Though rival kingdoms press its verdant sides, they crossed over, and found themselves in the "Celestial Em- pire !" Previously, however, a little incident occurred perfect- ly characteristic of the Chinese. Tlieir conductor, observing some women walliing in the fields, and fearing, apparently, that their petticoats would set all Pekin on fire, inquired with alarm to whom they belonged, and whither they were travelling. " To China," replied the ambassador. At this the worship- per of Fo's terrors were increased : he replied that they had women enough in Pekin already, and that, as there never had been a European woman in China, he would not, without a special order from the emperor, be answerable for introducing the first ; but that, if his excellency desired it, he would des- patch a courier to learn the emperor's pleasure. As this would have retarded their movements another six weeks, the ambas- sador, who had not the wit to disguise the ladies in men's apparel, sent them back to Selinguisky, and continued his journey without them, r . •r ^ i t s-«* '*> ■» * , JOHN BBLL. 361 Thef now entered upon that vast table-land which was found by the Jesuits to be three thousand geometrical paces above the level of the sea, from which the mountains forming its southern boundary serve but as steps by which the traveller may descend to the low plains of China. The small undula- tions or eminences which break the uniformity of these vast steppes are covered with the rhubarb plant, which grows there spontaneously, and is propagated more rapidly by the aid of the marmot, which, burrowing in prodigious numbers at its roots, loosens the mould, and prepares it for the reception of the seeds. The roots are Mug up for exportation by the Mon- gols, who carelessly bore holes through them, and hang them about their tents or on the horns of their sheep to dry. After passing the Tula, no river again occurred north of the Great Wall. The mode of travelling here resembles, in some degree, that which prevails in the deserts of Arabia and Afiica, except that the walls are more frequent, and the danger from marauders little or none. Their food, after the first few days, consisted of mutton only; but as this was of an excellent quality, the circumstance was not considered as a great hard- ship. In the course of their Journey they traversed a large plain, thickly strewed with transparent red and yellow pebbles, which ghttered beautifully in the sun, and were said to be cor- nelians and yellow sapphires, being hard, and taking a fine polish. The few Mongols whom they found wandering with their flocks und herds over the waste, appeared more content- ed and happy than the possessors of the most fertile soil ; and this being the primitive, the freest, and perhaps the most natu- ral condition of man, the circumstance ought not to excite our astonishment. The mere art of locomotion is pleasant to man, and in pastoral tribes, accustomed to wandering from their infancy, it becomes a passion, the gratification of which is happiness. " On the 2d of November, about noon," says Boll, " we could perceive the famous wall, running along the tops of the mountains, towards the north-cast. One of our people cried out * land !^ as if we had been all this while at sea. It was now, as nearly as I can compute, about forty English miles from us, and appeared white at this distance." The nearer they approached the mountains, the more were they astonished at the grandeur of this wall, which, as Voltaire very justly ob- serves, makes no inconsiderable figure even upon the map of the world. "The appearance of it," says our traveller, " run- ning from one high rock to another, with square towers at cer- tain intervals, even at this distance, is most magnificent." In two days they arrived at the foot of this mighty barrier, and 31* )l ■»* ♦ - •■ t. U u. 302 JOBS BELL. h entered through a great gate into China. Here n thousand men were perpetually on guard, hy the officers conrimanding whom they were received with much politeness, and invited to ten. . "The long, or endless wall, as it is commonly called," says our traveller, who has given the best account I have yet met with of this prodigious undertaking, "encompasses all the north and west parts of China. It was built about six hun- dred years ago by one of the emperors, to prevent the frequent incursions of the Mongols, and other western Tartars, who made a practice of assembling nunierous troops of horse, and invading the country in different places. The Chinese fron- tiers were too extensive to be guarded against such bold and numerous enemies, who, after plundering and destroying a wealthy country, returned to their own loaded with spoils. " The Chinese, finding all precautions ineffectual to put a stoptothe inroaJs of sucli barbarians, at last resolved to build- this famous wall. It begins in the province of Leotong, at the bottom of the bay of Nankin, and proceeds across rivers and over the tops of the highest mountains without interrup- tion, keeping nearly along the circular ridge of barren rocks that surround the country to the north and west ; and after running southward about twelve hundred Enghsh miles, ends in impassable mountains and saridy deserts. " The foundation consists of large blocks of square stones laid in mortar ; but the rest of the wall is built of brick. The whole is so strong and well built as to need almost no repair, and in such a dry climate may remain in this condition for many ages. Its height and breadth arc not equal in every place; nor, indeed, is it necessary they should. When carried over steep rocks, where no horse can pass, it is about fifteen or twenty feet high, and broad in proportion ; but when run- ning through a valley, or crossing a river, there you see a strong wall, about thirty feet higli, with square towers at the distance of a bowshot from one another, and embrasures at equal distances. The top of the wall is flat, and paved with broad freestones ; and where it rises over a rock, or any emi- nence, you ascend by a fine easy stone stair. The bridges over rivers and torrents are exceedingly neat, being both well contrived and executed. They have two stories of arches, one above another, to afford sulHcient passage for the waters on sudden rains and floods." Bell was, moreover, informed by the Chinese that this wall was completed within the space of five years, every sixth man in the empire having been comptllcd to work at it or find a substitute. Cut if the date of its erection is altosrether uiicer- JOHN BELL. 363 tain, we may very well be permitted to indulge our skepticism respecting such circumstances as tend to increase the marvel- lousness of the undertaking. It is fur more probable that it is the work of ages, and that numerous and long interruption oc- curred in the prosecution of the design. With respect to its utility, I likewise dissent altogether from tlie opinion of our traveller, who, in comparing it with the pyramids, st)^lc8 the latter "a work of vanity." Had Bell believed, as I do, that the pyramids were temples, he would, however, have been the last man in the world to have thus characterized them ; but with respect to the long wall, it may be proved to have been not only useless, but pernicious, since the imaginary security it afforded encouraged those unwarlike habits to which the Chinese are naturally addicted ; and thi- , when the Tartars overleaped this contemptible obstacle to valour, and chalk n;ed them to defend their empire by arms, they disc )vered tliat soldiers are the only wall which a wise people should oppose to its enemies, all other defences being found upon trial to be utterly vain. No country, no, not even Hindostan itself, has been more frequently conquered than China ; nor has any re- gion of the earth been more frequently desolated and drenched with blood by civil wars and rebellions ; and if ever circum- stances should render it necessary for England to extend her conquests in Asia beyond the Burrampooter on the norlh-east, it would be seen with what ease the Hindoo Sipahces, who subdued Tippoo Sultan, the Rohillas, Rajpoots, Patans, and Burmese, would rout and subdue the feeble and inefficient troops of China. But to proceed with our traveller. All the way to Pekin they observed terrible marks of the destructive power of earth- quakes in these countries; many rf the towns hav.n;^ been half-destroyed by one which had happened the preceding year, when great numbers of people were buried beneath the ruins. The country appeared to be well cultivated, and the towns and villages numerous, but not in any remarkable degree. They reached Pekin on the 18th of November. Bell had now reached the goal of his wishes, and upon the whole was not disappointed. Jicng accustomed to the sight of savages immersed ni ignorance 'Uid barbarism, he foimd the Chinese, by comparison, highly civilized. They drank tea, cultivated line friiits, manufactured excellent silks, paper, and porcelain, and aecuniulated considerable wealth ; but, before they were tau'dit by the Jesuits, scarcely understood suifieient astronomy to c able them to calculate an eclipse, were ignor- ant of the art of founding cannon, of building cliiniMeys, of making clocks and watches ; and, what was infinitely worse •» ' 364 JOHN BELL. than all this, they were under so little moral restraint that men incapable of maintaining a family married several wives with the execrable design of exposing or murdering their offspring. The existence of foundling hospitals in civilized countries proves that there everywhere exist individuals to whom the offshoots of their own being are objects of no solicitude; an- cient nations, too, sometimes exposed weak or deformed chil- dren ; but no people, as far as I have been able to discover, ever arrived at that pitch of depravity which distinguishes the Chinese, " among whom," says Sir George Staunton, "habit seems to have familiaiized a notion that life only becomes truly precious, and inattention to it criminal, after it has con- tinued long enough to be endowed with a mind and sentiment; but that mere dawning existence may be suffered to be lost without scruple, though it cannot without reluctance." In the fine arts the Chinese have made but little progress, havmg no knowledge of sculpture, and very little of painting. Their literature, it is very clear, contains none of those splen- did creations of genius which we might expect to find among a people partly civilized during so many ages, and which ac- tually exist in the languages of Persia and Hindostan. Their popular religion is the grossest and most corrupt form of Buddhism ; and even this, as well as their philosophy p.nd arts, such as they are, they originally borrowed from Hindos- tan, which seems in antiquity to have been the great workshop where all the fantastic systems, religious and philosophical, which were current among the heathen were fabricated. Captain Ismailoff seems, like Lord Amherst, to have felt a peculiar antipathy to the practice of bowing nine times before the Chinese emperor; but at length, after many struggles with their prejudices, consented to conform to ancient usage. The first audience was granted him at one of the emperor's country palaces, where, when he arrived, though the morning was cold and frosty, he found all the ministers of state and offi- cers belonging to the court seated cross-legged upon their fur cushions in the open air, — an exhibition probably intended to serve as a reproof to the insolent barbarian who could object to bow nine times before a prince at whose door the greatest men in the Celestial Empire were contented to sit cross-legged in the frost ! Nothing of that magnificence which Marco Polo found at the court of Kublai Khan was discoverable in that of Kamhi, where, on the contrary, the only circumstances truly remarkable were the extreme plainness of every thing and the afiability and calm good sense of the aged monarch, who, in insisting on the observance of ancient forms and ceremonieSf was actuated, it was clear, by no motives of paltry vanity. JOHN DELL. 365 Though Gibbon, with all his disposition to skepticism, allowed to Pekin a population of two millions, it would appear from Bell's account, who says he rode round it at an easy trot in four hours, to be inferior to London in size ; and no one who isacquaintfid with the form of Chinese houses, which are never more than one story high, and who reflects upon the extent of the imperial gardens, together with all the other gar- dens included within the walls, will doubt for a moment that it is vastly less poptdous. Upon the accounts of the Chinese themselves no reliance whatever can be placed. They are greater proficients in lying than the ancient Cretans ; and on the subject of population have deluded European travellers with fables so monstrous, that there, is nothing in Gulliver more repugnant to common sense. To maintain the one-half of tiie population to wbicii tliL'ir empire makes pretensions would demand a progress in civilization and the arts of life of which iiiiherto they have not even dreamed ; but a paper populatioJJ costs nothing. Three hundred and thirty-three millions are as easily written us one hundred and nineteen millions. But if we reflect for a moment on the vast deserts, the barren mountains, the impenetrable woods which the Jesuits, when scattered and terrified into their senses by per- secution, found in almost every part of this richly-cultivated country, and were enabled to conceal 1 hemselves in for months, we shall perhaps b'^ disposed to conclude, that in proportion to its extent China is less populous th;m Hindostati, which yet does not, in all probability, contain one-fourdi of tho popula- tion it might be made to support if proptM'ly culrivated. The obji^ct of the mission, which indeed seems to have been of little importance, having bncn acenmjjlislied, the aml)assa- dor prepared to depart. The aged ('in|)eror, bowrver, who appear.5 to have possi^ssed a thoroughly benevolent and polished mind, was desirous of presenting them before they took their leave with the splendid speet.acle of a Mongol hunt, of such a one at least as could be represented in a park of two or three days' journey in extent. On the 21st of February, therefore, tiie day appointed for the hunt, horses were brought them at one o'clock in the morning, the Chinese resolving that no time should be lost. They reached the royal park al»out daybreak, where, in a summer-house erected in the forest, they found ♦oe emperor, who had risen long before their arrival. Here t tey breakfasted. Before the south front of the summer-house there was a large canal, with several lish-ponds fdled with Clearwater, which greatly beautified the scene; and all around, at convenient distances, stood o thousand tents in which the courtiers had slept. «*' < „ '"t 366 JOHN BELL. "The signal was then given," says Bell, "that the emperor was coming ; upon which all the great men drew up in hnes, from the bottom of the stairs to the road leading to the forest, all on foot, dressed in their hunting-habits, the same with those used by the officers and cavalry of the army when in the field, and armed with bows and arrows. We had a proper place assigned us, and made our bows to his majesty, who returned a gracious smile, with signs to follow him. He was seated cross-legged in an open machine carried by four men with long poles rested on their shoulders. Before him lay a fowl- ing-piece, a bow, and a sheaf of arrows. This has been hia hunting equipage for some years, since he left off riding. . . . As soon as the emperor had passed, the company mounted and followed him at some distance till we came into the open forest, where all formed into a semicircle, in the centre of which was the emperor, having on his left-hand, (the place of honour in China) about eight or ten of his sons and grandsons, and the ambassador on his right, about fifty paces distant. Close by him were the master of the chase with some grey- hounds and the grand falconer with his hawks. I could not but admire the beauty of these fine birds. Many of them were as white as doves, having one or two black feathers in their wings or tails. They are brought from Siberia, or places to the north of the river Amoor. " Our wings being extended, there were many hares started, which the company endeavoured to drive towards the emperor, who killed many of them with arrows as they passed ; those he missed he made a sign to some of the princes to pursue, who also killed several of them with arrows ; but no other person was permitted to draw a bow or stir from the line. "From the open field we continued our route westward to a place among thickets and tall reeds, where we sprung a number of pheasants, partridges, and quails. His majesty then laid aside his bow and arrows, and carried a hawk on his hand, which he flew as occasion ofl'ered. The hawks gener- ally raked in the pheasants while flying; but if they took to the reeds or bushes they soon caught them. " After proceeding about two or three miles farther into the forest we come to a tall wood, where we found several sorts of deer. The young men went in and beat the woods, while the rest of the company remained without. We saw much game pass us, but nobody drew a bow until the emperor had killed u ^.tag, which he did very dexterously with a broad-headed arrow ; after which the princes had leave to kill several bucks, among which was one of that species that bears the musk, called kaberda in Siberia. If ■> 't^ . •♦ \ >#.V' ' JOHN BELL. 367 "We had now been six hours on horseback, and I reckon had travelled about fifteen English miles, but no end of the forest yet appeared. We turned short from this wood south- ward, till coming to some marshes overgrown with tall reeds we roused a great many wild boars ; but as it was not the sea- son for killing ihem they all escaped. The hunting of these fierce animals is reckoned the most dangerous of all kinds of sport except the chase of lions and tigers. Every one en- deavoured to avoid them, and several of them ran furiously through the thickest troops of horse. The emperor was so cautious as to have a company of men armed with lances to guard his machine. "We continued the sport till about four o'clock, when we came to a high artificial mount of a square figure, raised in the middle of a plain, on the top of which were pitched about ten or twelve tents for the imperial family. This mount had several winding paths leading to the top, planted on each side with rows of trees in imitation of nature. To the south was a large basin of water with a boat upon it, from whence, I sup- pose, the earth has been taken that formed this mount. At some distance from the mount tents were erected for the peo- ple of distinction and officers of the court. About two hun- dred yards from it toe were lodged in some clean huts covered with reeds^ — [No mark that Kamhi held the czar's ambassa- dor in very high estimation.] — " The emperor, from his situa- tion, had a view of all the tents and a great way farther into the forest. The whole scene made a very pretty appearance." When they had dined and been interrogated respecting the degree of admiration with which they had beheld the feats of the emperor and his sons, which was of course superlative, the ambassador was informed that he was to be entertained with a tiger-hunt, or rather " baiting," as our traveller terms it; three animals of that species having been kept for some time in a cage for that purpose. "The hill where the empe- ror's tent stood was surrounded with several ranks of guards armed with long spears. A guard also was placed before the Hrobassador's and the rest of the tents, to secure the whole en- cai.; rnent from the fury of these fierce animals. The first was iet out by a person mounted on a fleet horse, wlio opened the door of the coop by means of a rope tied to it. The tiger immediately left his cage, and seemed much pleased to find himself at liberty. The horseman rode off' at full speed, while the tiger (poor fellow!) was rolling hiir.self upon the grass. At last he rose, growled, and walked about. The emperor fired twice at lum with bullets, but the distance being consid- erable missed him, though the pieces were well pointed. Upon \^ 4 * 368 JOHN BELL. which his majesty sent to the ambassador to try his piece upon him; wliich being charged with a single ball, he walked to- wards the animal, accompanied by ten men armed with spears, in case of accidents, till, being at a convenient distance, he took his aim and killed him on the spot." The second and third tigers were despatched in a short time ; and the sportsmen, pluming themselves upon their magnificent achievements, sat down in great good-humour to supper, as men always do when they have performed any glorious action. The skin of the tiger slain by the ambassa- dor was sent liim by ihe emperor, who observed, that liy the laws of hunting he had a right to it. The sport of the next "day ditfered very little from the preceding. They continued, however, advancing through the forest without discovering any •end to it, and passed the night in a temple netir another impe- rial summer-house. The extent of this immense park, Mhich was all enclosed by a high woil, may enable us to form some idea of the quantity of useless land in China ; ibr besides the number of similar enclosures belonging to the imperial family, we may be sure that, ns far as possible, all the rich and great imitate the example of the sovereign. The ambassador now received his audience of leave, and, afler making several visits of ceremony, and receiving the cu- rious but not valuable presents intended for the czar, departed from Pekin. Their route from the capital to the Great Wall, and thence across the deserts of Mongolia to Selinguisky, though not precisely the same as that by which they had come, afforded but few new objects, and was rendered interesting by no striking incidents. The Baikal Lake being still frozen when they reached it, they traversed it on light sledges upon the ice. They then embarked upon the Angara, and descend- ed by water to Yeniseisk. Proceeding thence by land, ihey soon arrived upon the banks of the river Ket, where they again took to their boats ; and sailing down this melancholy stream, bordered on both sides by the most gloomy forests, immerged into the mighty stream of the Obe. They now sailed down this river to its confluence with the Irtish, another noble stream, against the current of which they made their way with much difficulty to Tobolsk. Here they quitted thtJr boats, and continued their journey on sledges. Wmter was rapidly invading the country. Snow, cold winds, frost, and short days conspired to render their movements irksome; but they still pushed on rapidly, and on the 5th of January, 1722, arrived at Moscow, where they found the czar and all his court, who had recently removed thither from Petersburg. .H JOHN BELL. 369 Peter, surrounded by his courtiers, tiie general officers, and the nobility and gentry from all parts of the empire, was making great preparations for the celebration of the festivals appointed to be solemnized in commemoration of the peace concluded at Aland in 17*21, between Russia and Sweden, after a war of more than twenty years, when our traveller arrived ; and as he appears greatly to have admired the policy of Peter on most occasions, he was particularly gratified at the present ex- hibition. He observes that Peter, even in his amusements and times of diversion, made use of all possible means of in- spiring his people with a love of what was useful ; and as the Russians had a peculiar aversion to shipping, his principal aim in the shows exhibited at Moscow was to dispel that pre- judice, by impressing upon their minds that it was owing to his naval power that the peace had been obtained. "The triumphant entry," says Bell, "was made from a village about seven miles from Moscow, called Seswedsky. The first of the cavalcade was a galley finely carved and gilt, in which the rowers plied their oars as on the water. The galley was commanded by the high-admiral of Russia. Then came a frigate of sixteen small brass guns, with three masts, completely rigged, manned with twelve or fourteen youths habited like Dutch skippers, in black velvet, who trimmed the sails, and performed all the manoeuvres of a ship at sea. Then came most richly-decorated barges, wherein sat the empress and the ladies of the court. There were also pilot-boats heav- ing the lead, and above thirty other vessels, pinnaces, wherries, tfcc, each filled with masqucraders in the dresses of different nations. It was in the month of February, at which time all the ground was covered with snow, and all vne rivers frozen. All these machines were placed on sledges, and were drawn by horses through all the principal streets of Moscow. The ship required above forty horses to draw it. In order to its passing under the gates the topmasts were struck, and, when passed, set up again ; besides which, the gateway was dug as low as was necessary for admitting it to pass." As soon as these festivals were concluded, Peter, who had heen invited into Persia with an army by the shah, who re- (juired his aid against the rebellious Afghans, prepared to march southward ; and Bell, who was thought to understand something of Persian manners, having spent sometime in the country, was engaged by the czar's chief physician to accom- pany the expedition. Accordingly, the troops having been cm- barked on the Moskwa, they descended by water to the Cas- pian Sea, and made for the shores of Daghestan, where they landed and encamped. They then proceeded along the scu- 32 370 JOHN BELL. shore to Derbend, where the fleet containing the provisions, stores, &c. for the army was wrecked upon the beach. This gave Peter a plausible excuse for returning home without afibrding the shah the desired aid. Indeed, the whole expedi- tion appears to have been a mere piece of treachery got up for the purpose of obtaining possession of Derbend ; for, " the em- peror determined," says Bell, " to leave things in the state they were in, and to return again to Astrakhan by the same way we came, leaving a garrison at Derbend sufficient to secure the advantage he had gained." We now lose sight of our traveller for fifteen years, the whole of which, however, he spent in Russia. In 1737 the war with Turkey, which had begun in 1734, began to grow disagreeable to the Russian court, the Ottomites, in spite of their barbarism, being more obstinate in the field than their pohshed enemies of the north had anticipated. Under these circumstances, it was thought advisable to negotiate a peace; but as the Turks made no proposals, and as in time of war no subject of Russia, or Germany, the ally of Russia, was admit- ted into the dominions of the sultan. Bell, who appears to have been greatly respected both for his character and abilities, was prevailed upon, " at the earnest desires of Count Osterman, the chancellor of Russia, and of Mr. Rondeau, his Britanic ma- jesty's minister at the court of Russia," to undertake the jour- ney. He departed from Petersburg on the 6th of December, 1737, and arrived at Constantinople on the 29th of the next m^nth. With respect to his commission, he merely observes that he punctually conformed to the terms of his instructions. His negotiations did not detain him long. He left Constanti- nople on the 8th of April, and on the 17th of May arrived at Petersburg. Here he concludes his account of himself and his travels. In the decline of his life he returned to Scotland, where he resided at Antermony, his native place ; and it was there that, surrounded apparently by affluence, and enjoying the most ample leisure, he wrote his excellent and interesting account of his travels, the first edition of which appeared Iv. 1762. His death took place in 1780. i'fll •I » f f ..•< MUNGO PARK. This enterprising and distinguished traveller was bom on the 10th of September, 1771, at Fowlshields, a farm occupied by his father, on the banks of the Yarrow, near Selkirk. In common with the greater number of the sons of Scottish yeo- men, Mungo Park, notwithstanding that the number of his brothers and sisters amounted to no less than thirteen, receiv- ed a respectable education, and at the age of fifteen was bound apprentice to a surgeon at Selkirk. At the close of this ap- prenticeship, in 1789, Park continued his medical studies at the University of Edinburgh, where, though nothing remark- able is recorded of him, he seems to have applied with great assiduity to his professional studies. His summer vacations, during one of which he made a tour to the highlands, were de- voted to botany. Having completed his education, Park removed to London in search of professional employment. Here, through the kindness of Mr. Dickson, his brother-in-law, he had the good fortune to become known to Sir Joseph Banks, to whom so many other distinguished travellers had been indebted ; and througli whose recommendation he was appointed surgeon to the Worcester East Indiaman. In this capacity he made a voyage to Bencoolen, in Sumatra, the only fruits of which were a paper containing descriptions of eight new fishes from Sumatra, published in the third volume of the Linnman Transactions. Shortly after his return from this voyage. Park, learning that the African Association, of which his friend Sir Joseph Banks was a very active and zealous member, were desirous of engaging a person to replace Major Houghton, who, it was feared, had fallen a sacrifice to the climate, or perished in some contest with the natives, eagerly offered his services, which after due deliberation were accepted. The association, ■ * ^to x" 372 MVNGO PARK. Pi he observes, conducted itself with great hberahty towards him. He forthwith prepared himself for the voyage, and on the 2ild of Moy, 1795, sailed from Portsmouth in the brig Endeavour. His instructions, he says were very plain and concise. He was directed, on liis arrival in Africa, "to pass on to the river Niger, either by the way of Bnmbouk or by such other route as should be found most convenient ; that I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, the rise and termination of the river. That I should use my utmost exertions to visit the principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood, particularly Timbuctoo and Houssa; and that I should afterward be at liberty to return to Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by such other route as under all the then existing circum- stances of my situation and prospects should appear to me to be most advisable." On the 21st of June, after an agreeable voyage of thirty days, he arrived at Jillifica, a town on the northern bank of the Gambia, in the kingdom of Barra. From this place after a stay of two days he proceeded up the Gambia, in the waters of which were found prodigious numbers of fish of unknown species, together with alligators and hippopotami, whose teeth furnish excellent ivory. Park, having quitted the Endeavour at Jonkakonda, proceeded thence by land ; and reaching Pisania, a small British factory in the King of Yam's domin- ions, on the 5th of July took up his residence at the house of Dr. Laidley, until he should be able to prosecute his journey into the interior. Our traveller's first care now was to render himself master of the Mandingo language, which in this part of Africa is in general use ; and to collect from every source within his power information respecting the countries he was about to visit. In the language his progress depended on his own application ; but he soon found that little or no reliance could be placed on the accounts of the interior furnisiied him by the natives, who on the most material points were frequently in direct contra- diction with each other. His anxiety to examine and judge for himself was therefore increased. However, besides that the rainy season, which had now commenced, rendered travel- ling impracticable, another equally insuperable bar to the speedy prosecution of his journey quickly presented itself. In observing on the 31st of July an eclipse of the moon, he im- prudently exposed himself to the night dew, and next day he found himself attacked by fever and delirium, which were the commencement of an illness that with a very trifling intermis- sion confined him during two months within doors. " The c^re and attention of Dr, J^aidley contributed greatly," says I » V ■^■:■ MUNGO PARK. 373 park, "to alleviate my sufferings j his company and conversa- tion beguiled the tedious hours during that gloomy season when the rain falls in torrents ; when suffocating heats op- press by day, and when the night is spent by the terrified traveller in hstening to the croaking of frogs, (of which the numbers are beyond imagination,) the shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep howling of the hyena ; a dismal concert, inter- rupted only by the roar of such tremendous thunder as no per- son can form a conception of but those who have heard it." Having been disappointed in his expectations of proceeding with a slave caravan towards Bambarra, Park departed from Pisania on the 2d of December, 1795. He had been provided with a negro servant named Johnson, who had been many years in Great Britain, and understood both the English and Mandingo languages; and with a negro boy, named Demba, the property of Dr. Laidley, who, as the highest inducement of good behaviour, promised him his freedom on his return. Besides these. Park was accompanied by four other persons, who, though independent of his control, were made to under- stand that their safe return to the countries on the Gambia would depend on our traveller's preservation. His equipment was by no means magnificent: a horse for himself, two assefs for his servants, provisions for two days, a small assortment of beads, ambre, and tobacco, a few changes of linen and other apparel, an umbrella, a pocket sextant, a magnetic compass, a thermometer, two fowling-pieces, two pair of pistols, and some other small articles. His friends at Pisania accompanied him during the first two days, and then, dismissing him on his way, took their leave, secretly persuaded they should never see him more. He had scarcely lost sight of his European friends, and rid- den off musing and somewhat melancholy into the wood, when a body of black people presented themselves in a clamorous manner before him, demanding custom-dues, in default of which they threatened to carry him before their king. To es- cape from this honour, which might have proved a costly one, Park presented them with a little tobacco, upon which they were of course contented, and he was allowed to proceed On reaching Medina, the capital of Woolli, he judged it prudent, or perhaps absolutely necessary, to present himself at the king's levee, whe»i -lio venerable benevolent old chief not only granted him pe mission to traverse his dominions, but assured him he would 0i^3r u ^ prayers for his safety, partly to secure which he furnished him with a trusty guide. Having safely reached the frontiers of the Woolli dominions, Park dismissed his guide ; and being about to enter a country 32* ' t IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I m lU J 2.2 ^ US, 12.0 M PIHIi^ < 6" ► Photographic Sdences Corporation 33 W*^i MAIN STRUT WnSTH.N.Y. MSM (716) 172-4303 m ? V* <^ property, insisted upon examining his merchandise, of which he seized upon the moiety. Of the remnant that remained, particularly a little amber and a few beads, which he had succeeded in concealing, he was now so fearful of producing any portion, even for the purchase of food, lest be should once more awaken the cupidity of the authorities, that both he and his attendants determined on combating hunger for the day, *' and wait some opportunity of purchasing or begging provisions." In this extremity, while he was sitting down chewing straws, a female slave, who observed him in passing by, was moved with com- passion, and presented him with a quantity of ground-nuts, which was a very seasonable supply. Scarcely had the old woman led him, before he received information that the ne- phew of the King of Kr.s8on, who had been sent by his uncle on an embassy to the King of Kajanga, and was now return- ing to his own country, was about to pay him a visit. He came accordingly, and upon Park's representing to him his •ituation and distresses, kindly offered to be his guide and pro- tector as far ns Kasuon. With him, therefore, our traveller now continued his route to the banks of the Senegal, upon crossing which, his royal guide, who, like other guides, re> quired a present for his services, informed him they were in hifl uncle's dominions, and in complete safety. Hi .*^ MtJNGO PARK. 377 Safe or not safe, however, Park soon found that the strangef and the traveller were nowhere beyond the reach of extortion.' Half of the little property which had escaped the fangs of the Kajaaga people, was here taken from him. He was then permitted to depart. Among the honest negroes with whom he had set out from Pisania, on the Gambia, there was a blacksmith from the interior, who, having amassed some little money upon the coast, was now returning to spend the re- mainder of his days in his native land. Shortly after quitting Teesee, the last place where our traveller had submitted to legal robbery, he and his companions came within sight of the Uacksmith^s village. The news of his return had, it seeras^ preceded him. His brother, accompanied by a singing-man, came forth to welcome the wanderer home, and brought along with him a horse, that the blacksmith "might enter his native town in a dignified manner.*' Park and his companions were desired to put ' good charge of powder into their guns. The singing-man led the way ; the two brothers followed ; and the cavalcade was quickly joined by a considerable number of the inhabitants, who, by extravagant gestures and songs of triumph, testified their joy at the return of their townsman. " When ve arrived at the blacksmith's place of residence, we dismount- ed, and fired our muskets. The meeting between him and his relations was very tender ; for these rude children of nature, freed from restraint, display their emotions in the strongest and most expressive manner. Amid these transports, the blacksmith's aged mother was led forth, leaning upon a staff. Every one made way for her ; and she stretched out her hand to bid her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked his bands, and arms, and face with great care, and seemed highly delighted that iter latter days were blessed by his return, and that her ears once more heard the music of his voice. From this interview, I was convinced, that whatever difference there is between the Negro and European in the conformation of the nose, and the colour of their skin, there is none in the genuine sympathies and characteristic feelings of our common nature. During the tumult of these congratulations, I had seated myself apart, by the side of one of the huts, being unwilling to interrupt the flow of filial and parental tenderness ; and the attention of the company was so entirely taken up with the blacksmith, that I believe none of his friends had observed me. When all the people present had seated themselves, the black- smith was desired Jiy his father to give some account of his adventures ; and silence being commanded he began ; and after repeatedly thanking God for the success that had attend- ed him, related every material occurrence that had happened 378 MUKOO PARK. to him from bis leaving Kasson to his arriral at the Gambia; bis employment and success in those parts ; and the dangers he had escaped in returning to his native country. In the latter part of his narrationv he had frequent occasion to men- tion me ; and after many strong expressions concerning my kindness to him, he pointed to the place where I sat, and ex- claimed, AJille ibi siring (see him sitting there.) In a mo- ment all eyes were turned upon me. I appeared like a being dropped from the clouds, every one was surprised that thej had not observed me before ; and a few women and children expressed great uneosiness at being so near a ;nan of such an uncommon appearance. By degrees, however, their appre- hensions subsided, and when the blacksmith assured them I was perfectly inoflensive, some of them ventured so far as to examine the texture of my clothes ; but many of them were still very suspicious, and when by accfdent I happened to move myself, or look at the young children, "their mothers would scamper off with them with the greatest precipitation. In a few hours, however, they all became reconciled to me." With these honest people Park remained during the whole of that day and the next, and then, accompanied by the wor- thy blacksmith, who declared he would not quit him during his stay in that part of the country, set forward towards Koo- niakary. On his arrival at this city he obtained an audience of the king, a fine old man, who, for his conduct both in peace and war, was greatly beloved by his subjects. His behaviour towards the stranger was not inconsistent with this character. He informed him with apparent regret, that the direct route to Bambarra was about to be closed by war, but, after vainly ad- vising his guest to retrace his footsteps, added, that there yet remained some hopes of peace, respecting the validity of which he should be able to pronounce nn opinion in the course of four or five days. In the meanwhile he invited Park to remain in the neighbourhood. On the 1st of February, 1796, the king*s messenger return- ed from the contiguous kingdom of Kuarta, bringing intelli- gence that the Bambarra ormy had not yet entered the coun- try, and that it was possible the traveller might be enabled to , traverse it before the invasion should take place. Accordingly, being provided with two guides by the king. Park took leave of his friend the blacksmith, and set forward on his dangerous journey. The country, at all times thickly peopled, now swarmed with fugitives, whom the fear of theiBambarrans had terrified from their homes. The scenery in many places was romantically wild. " On coming within sight of the moun- tains of Foolado, we travelled/* says Park, " with great diffl- '^» MUNOO PARK. 379 eahj down a gtony and abrupt precipice, and continued our vaj in the bed of a dried river-course, where the trees meet- ing over our heads, made the place dark and cool. In a little Qmewe reached the bottom of this romantic glen ; and about .en o*clock emerged from between two rocky hills, and found ourselves on the level and sandy plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a korree, or watering-place, where, for a tew strings of bends, I purchased as much milk and corn-meal aa ve could ent ; and indeed provisions are here so cheap, and the shephercis live in such affluence, that they seldom ask any return fur what refreshment a traveller receives from them." From Uiis place, having prevailed upon his landlord, a Mo- hammedffn negro, to accompany him as a guide to Kemmoo, our traveller set forward on the 11th of February. He ob- lenres, " We had no sooner got into a dark and lonely part of the first wood, than he made a sign for us to stop ; and taking hold of a hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an amulet round his neck, whistled very loud three times. I confess I was somewhat startled, thinking it was a signal for some of his companions to come and attack us ; but he assured me it was done merely with a view to ascertain what success we were likely to meet with on our present journey. He then dis- mounted, laid his spear across the road, and having said a number of short prayers, concluded with three loud whistles ; after which he listened for some time, as if in expectation of an answer, and receiving none, told us we might proceed without fear, for there was no danger." Adventures now appeared to crowd upon our traveller. The couhtry through which their road lay being thickly sprinkled with wild fruit-trees, they amused themselves as they rode slowly along with picking and eating the fruit. **In this pursuit," says Park, " I had wandered a little from my' people, and being uncertain whether they were before or be> hind me, I hastened to a rising ground to look about me. As I was proceeding towards this eminence, two negro horsemen, armed with muskets, came galloping from among the bushes. On seeing them I made a full stop ; the horsemen did the same ; and all three of us seemed equally surprised and con- founded at this interview. As I approached them their fears increased, and one of them, after casting on me a look of horror, rode off at full speed ; the other, in a panic of fear, put bis hand over his eyes, and continued muttering prayere until his horse, seemingly without his rider's knowledge, con- veyed him slowly after his companion. About a mile to the westward they fell in with my attendants, to whom they related A frightful story ; it seems their fears had dressed me in the 380 MUNOO PARK. flowing robes of a tremendous spirit ; and one of them affirm* ed, that when I made my appearance, a cold blast of wiad came pouring down upon him from the sky, hke so much cold water." Shortly after this they arrived at the capital of Kaarta, where he was an object of such extraordinary curiosity to the populace, the majority of whom had never before seen a white man, that they burst forcibly into his hut, crowd after crowd. Those who had beheld the monster giving way to those who had not, until, as he observes, the hut was filled and emptied thirteen different times. Here he found that the war with Bambarra had actually commenced; that all communication between the countries had consequently ceased ; aiffl that, if it was his determination to persevere, it would be necessary to take a circuitous route through the Moorish kingdom of Luda- mar. The people of Kaarta were Mohammedans ; but there is a variety in church discipline even among these inflexible fanatics; for, instead of the fine sonorous voice of the muezzin, by which the faithful are elsewhere summoned to their devo- tions, the hour of prayer was here announced by the beating of drums, and blowing through large elephant's teeth, hollowed out in such a manner as to resemble buglehorns. The sound of these horns our traveller thought melodious, and approach- ing nearer to the human voice than any other artificial sound. Being very desirous to depart from the seat of war. Park pre- sented his horse-pistols and holsters to the king; and on pressing to be dismissed, received in return an escort of eight horsemim to conduct him to Jarra. Three of the king's sois, with two hundred horsemen, kindly undertook to accompany him a little way on his journey. On his arrival at Jarra, in the kingdom of Ludamar, be despatched a messenger to Ali, who was then encamped near Benown, soliciting permision to pass unmolested through his territories ; and having waited fourteen days for his reply, a slave at length arrived from the chief, affirming that he bad been instructed to conduct the traveller in safety as far as Goomba. His negro, Johnson, here refused to follow him any further ; and signified his intention of pushing back with- out delay to Gambia ; upon which Park, fearful of the success of his enterprise, intrusted him with a copy of his journal, re- serving another for himself, directing him to deliver the papers to the English on the coast. A portion of his baggage and apparel he committed to the care of a slave-merchant at Jarra, who was known to Dr. Laidley. He then departed with his slave-boy, accompanied by the chief's messenger. On the road our traveller was robbed once more by the Moors, who f, ,•*«,> •M •* J? ■ , • ♦* MUNGO PARK. 381 added insult to violence ; and when he was nearly perishing tot thirst, beat away his faithful slave from the wells without permitting him to draw water. However, after much fatigue and extraordinary privations, they arrived in Ali's camp at Benowm, where Park was imme* diately surrounded by crowds of fanatical Moors, attracted partly by curiosity, partly from a desire to vent their fierce zea! against a Christian. **My arrival," says he, "was no sooner observed than the people, who drew water at the wells, threw down their buckets ; those in the tents mounted their horses, and men, women, and children came running or gal- loping towards me. I soon found myself surrounded by such a crowd, that I could scarcely move ; one pulled my clothes, another took off my hat ; a third stopped me to examine my waistcoat buttons, and a fourth called out * La illah el allah Maharaet rasowl allahi,' and signified, in a threatening man- ner, that I must repeat those words. We reached at length the king's tent, where we found a great number of people, men, women, and children, assembled. Ali was sitting on a black leathern cushion, clipping a few hairs from his upper lip— a female attendant holding up a looking-glass before him. He appeared to be an old man of the Arab cast, with a long white beard, and he had a sullen and indignant aspect. He surveyed me with attention, and inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic; being answered in the negative, he ap- peared much surprised, and continued silent. The surround- ing attendants, and particularly the ladies, were abundantly more inquisitive ; they asked a thousand questions, inspected every part of my apparel, searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat and display the whiteness of my ikin ; they even counted my toes and fingers, as if they doubt- ed «'hether I was in truth a human being." Ali now, with the base idea of insulting an unprotecttkl stranger, ordered a wild boar to be brought in, which he signi- fied his desire that Park should kill and eat. This, well know- ing their religious prejudices, he of course refused to do ; upon which the boys who led in the boar were commanded to let it loose upon him, the Moors supposing that there exists an in- veterate feud between pigs and Christians, and that it would immediately run upon and gore him. The boar, however, was more magnanimous. Scorning to attack a defenceless foreigner, he no sooner found himself at Hberty than, brandish- ing his tusks at the natives, he rushed at them indiscriminate- ly, and then, to complete the consternation, took shelter under the very couch upon which the tyrant was sitting. This bold proceeding of the unclean beast dissolved the assembly, and 33 383 MUNOO PAKK. the traveller wu led away to the tent of a glave, in front of which, not being permitted to enter, he received a little food. Here he likewise passed the night lying upon the sand, sur- rounded by the curious muhitude. Next day, a hut, con- structed with corn-stalks, was given him ; but the abovemen- tioned boar, which had been recaptured, was tied to a stake in the corner of it, as his fittest companion. By degrees, however, the Moors began to conceive that the Christian might in one way or another be rendered useful, but could think of no better employment for him than that of a barber. In this capacity he made his first attempt, in the royal presence, on the head of the young prince of Ludamar. This dignified office he had no great desire to monopolize, and his unskilfulness in performing the operation, for he almost at the outset made an incision in the young prince's head, quick- ly reduced him once more to the rank of a common mortal. Ali seemed by no means desirous, however, of dispensing altogether with his services, wishing perhaps to preserve him from the same motives which induce us to preserve a wild beast ; and therefore, to render his escape the more impracti- cable, took possession of the whole of his baggage, includmg his gold, amber, watch, and one of his pocket compasses ; the other he had fortunately buried in the sand composing the floor T'f ''is hut. The gold and amber were highly gratifying to rish avarice, but the pocket compass soon became an ob- ^o.. of superstitious curiosity. "Ali was yery desirous to be ^ informed, why that small piece of iron, the needle, always pointed to the Great Desert, and I found myself somewhat puzzled to answer the question. To have pleaded my ignor- ance, would have created a suspicion that I wished to conceal the real truth from him ; I therefore told him that my mother resided far beyond the sands of Sahara, and that while she was alive, the piece of iron would always point that way, and serve as a guide to conduct me to her ; and that if she was dead, it would point to her grave. Ali now looked at the compass with redoubled amazement ; turned it round and round re- peatedly, but observing that it always pointed the same way, he took it up with great caution, and returned it to me, mani-~ festing that he thought there was something of magic in it, and that he was afraid of keeping so dangerous an instrument in his possession." It now began to be debated between Ah and his advisers what should be done with their prisoner. Their decisions were very dissimilar. Some were of opinion that he should be put to death ; others that he should merely lose his right hand ; while a third par^ thought that his eyes ought to be ^•> MDNOO PAKK. put out. All himself, however, determined that matters shoulff remain as they were until his queen Fatima, then in the north, had seen him. Meanwhile uli these reports were related to our traveller, and tended not a little to distress and agitate hia mind. His demand to be permitted to depart was formally refused. The accilmulated horrors of his situation, united with the want of food and sleep, at length brought on a fever, by which his life was endangered. But his persecution from the Moors did not therefore cease. They plucked his cloak from him ; they overwhelmed him with insults ; they tortured him like some ferocious animal, for their amusement ; and when, to escape frum this detestable thraldom, he crawled away to a short distance from the camp, he was forced back by menaces and violence. At length, after more than a month's detention at Benowm, he was commanded to follow Ali to the northern encampment of Bubaker, on the skirts of the Great Desert, and on the way endured the extremity of hunger, thirst, and fatigue. Upon arriving at Bubaker, the residence of Fatima, Park was in- troduced to that favourite princess. The beauty of a Moorish female is measured entirely by her circumference ; and to be- stow this grace on their daughters, the mothers stuff them with enormous quantities of milk and kouskous^ the swallow- ing of which is enforced even with blc^s, till they attain that acme of beauty tvhich renders them a load for a camel. The dimensions by which Fatima had captivated her royal lover were very enormous ; she added to them Arab features and long black hair. This queen at first shrunk back with horror at seeing before her that monster, a Christian ; but after put- ting various questions, began to see in him nothing so wholly different from the rest of mankind. She presented to him a bowl of milk, and continued to show him the only kindness he met with during this dreadful captivity. Upon the departure of ber husband for Jarra, she not only obtained him permission to join the party, but prevailed upon the tyrant to restore him his horse, saddle, and bridle, together with a part of his ap^ parel. His faithful black boy Demba, however, was taken from him, notwithstanding his animated remonstrances to Alh, who, upon his pressing the point rather warmly, only replied, that if he did not instantly mount his horse and depart, he should share the fate of his slave. "There is something in the frown of a tyrant," says Park, " which rouses the most secret emotions of the heart; I could not suppress my feelings; and for once entertained an indignant wish to rid the world of ' such a monster. Poor Demba was not less affected than my- self; he had formed a strong attachment towards me, and bad 984 MUNGO PARK. a cheerfulness of disposition which oflen beguiled the tedious hours of captivity ; he was likewise a proficient in the Bam- barra tongue, and promised, on that account, to be of great use to me in future. But it was in vain to expect any thing fa- vourable to humanity from a people who are strangers to its dictates. So having shaken hands with this unfortunate boy, and blended my tears with his, assuring him, however, I would do the best to redeem him, I saw him led off by three of Ali*s slaves towards the camp at Bubakcr." Upon his arrival at Jurra, where he was shortly afterward transferred by Ali to tyrants of a lower grade, his condition, far from being impruvecV was only rendered the more intoler- able. The city itself, moreover, was in a state of the utmost confusion. Malcontents from Kaarta having taken refuge here, had recently made an incursion into their native coun- try, carried off a large quantity of plunder^ and thus drawn the vengeance of their king against the city. All those who had reason to dread his resentment were now, therefore, pre- paring to fly into Bambarra ; and Park, whose route lay in the same direction, became exceedingly desirous of effecting his escape from the Moors, that he might seize upon this fortu- nate occasion of fulfilling the object of his mission. " Their departure," says he, speaking of the black fugitives, *' was very affecting : the women and children crying, the men sul- len and dejected, and all of them looking back with regret on their native town ; and on the wells and rocks beyond which their ambition had never tempted them to stray, and where they had laid all their plans of future happiness ; all of which they were now forced to abandon, and to seek shelter among strangers." Hoping to escape in this confused throng, he mounted his horse; and taking a bag of corn before him, rode slowly off along with the townspeople. On their arrival at Queira, n village at no great distance from the city. Park began to flatter himself that he had really eluded the vigilance of his persecu- tors; but before the agreeable idea had got a firm footing in his mind, he saw AU's chief slave, accompanied by four Moors, arrive, and take up their lodgings with the dooty. Johnson, our traveller's interpreter, suspecting the design of this visit, sent two boys to overhear their conversation, by which means he learned that it was their intention to carry Park back to Bubaker. Upon this he at once came to the desperate resolu- tion to effect his deliverance that very night from his pursuers, or to perish in the attempt. Johnson, who applauded this de- termination, but wanted the courage to imitate it, was never- theless exceedingly well disposed to aid in effecting his mas- ■r^ MUNGO PARK. 386 ter's escape. He thei3^ore undertook to keep watch upon the movements of the enemy, while Park was preparing for flight. About midnight he got all his apparel in readiness, which consisted of two shirts, two pair of trousers, two pocket-hand- kerchiefs, an upper and under waistcoat, a hat, a pair of half- boots, and a cloak. Besides these things he had not in his possession a single bead, or any other article, with which to purchase food for himself, or provender for his horse : — ** About daybreak, Johnson, who hud been listening to the Moors all night, came," says he, " and whispered to me that they were all nsleep. The awful crisis was now arrived when I was again either to taste the blessings of freedom, or languish out my days in captivity. A cold sweat moistened my forehead as I thought of the dreadful alternative, and reflected that one way or the other, my fate must be decided in the course of the ensuing day. But to deliberate was to lose the only chance of escaping. So taking up my bundle, I stepped gently over the negroes who were sleeping in the open air ; and, having mounted my horse, I bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take particular care of the papers I had intrusted him with, and inform my fxicnds in Gambia that he had left me in good health on my way to Bambarra. I proceeded with great cau- tion, surveying each bush, and frequently listening and look- ing behind me for the Moorish horsemen, until I was about a mile from the town, when I was surprised to find myself in the neighbourhood of a korree, belonging to the Moors. The shepherds followed me for about a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me ; and when I was out of their reach, and had begun to indulge the pleasing hope of escaping, 1 was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody halloo behind me; and looking back I saw three Moors on horseback, coming afler me at full speed, whooping and brandishing their double-barrel guns: I knew it was in vain to think of escaping, and therer fore turned back and met them ; when two of tliem caught hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the third, presenting his musket, told me I must go back to Ali." It soon appeared, however, that these gentlemen were mere- ly private robbers, who were fearful that their master had not sufficiently pillaged the stranger; for, after examining his bundle, and plundering him of his cloak, they bade him be- gone, and follow them no further. Too happy to be rid of the villains at any rate, he immediately struck into the woods, and continued his journey. His joy at thus escaping from the Moors was quickly damped by the consideration that he must very soon be in want of both food and water, neither of which could he procure without approaching villages or weUs* where 33» 386 MUNOO PARK. he would almost inevitably encounter his old enemies. He therefore pushed on with all the vigour of which he vrns pos- •essedf ux the hope of reaching some town or village of the kingdom of Bambarra. But he already began to experience the tortures of thirst. His mouth was parched and infiamed ; a sudden dimness, accompanied by. symptoms of faintins, would frequently come over his eyes ; and as his horse aliw was exceedingly fatigued, he began to apprehend that he should perish of thirst. Some shrubs, the leaves of which he chewed to relieve the burning pain in his mouth and throat, were all found to be bitter and of no service. ** A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising," sa3-s Park, " I climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I caet a melancholy look over the barren wilderness, but with- out discovering the most distant trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity of shrubs and sand every where presented itself, and the horizon was level and uninterrupted as that of the sea. " Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and brushwood with great avidity ; and as I was now too faint to attempt walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me, I thought it but an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it in my power to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shiil for himself; in doing which, I was affected with sickness and giddiness ; and, fnlhng upoa the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast approaching. Here then (thought I,) afler a short but ineffectual struggle, terminate all my hopes of being useful in my day and genera- tion — here must the short span of my life come to an end. I cast, as I beheved, a last look on the surrounding scene, and while I reflected on the awful change that was about to take place, this world and its enjoyments seemed to vanish from my recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed its func- tions ; and on recovering my senses I found myself stretched upon the sand, with the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking behind the trees. I now summoned all my resolution, and determined to make another effort to prolong my exist- ence : and, as the evening was somewhat cool, I resolved to travel as far us my limbs would carry me, in hopes of reaching (my only resource) a watering-place. With this view I put the bridle upon my horse, and driving him before me, went slowly along for about an hour, when I perceived some light- ning from the north-east — a most delightful sight, for it prom- ised rain. The darkness and lightning increased very rapidly; and in less than an hour I heard the wind roaring behind the bushes. I had already opened my mouth to receive the re- *t*> MUNOO PARK. 387 ficshing drops which I expected : but I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand, drivcri with such force by the wind as to give a very disagreeable sensation to my face and arms ; and I was obliged to mount my horse and stop under a bush to prevent being suffocated. The sand continued to % for nedr an hour in amazing quantities, afler which I again set forward^ and travelled with much difficulty until ten o'clock. About this time I was agreeably surprised by some very vivid flashes of lightning, followed by a few heavy drops of rain. In a little time the sand ceased to fly, and I alighted and spread out all my clean clothes to collect the rain, which at length I saw would certainly fall. For more than an hour it rained plenti- fully, and I quenched my thirst by wringing and sucking my clothes. "There being no moon, it was remarkably dark ; so that I was obliged to lead my horse, and direct my way by the comr pass, which the lightning enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled with tolerable expedition until post mid- night ; when the lightning became more distant, and I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small danger of my hands and eyes. About two o'clock my horse started at something ; and, looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a light at a short distance among the trees, and supposing it to be a town, I grouped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or other appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I approached, 1 perceived a number of other lights in different places, and began to suspect that I had fallen upon a party of Moors. However, in my present situation^^ I was resolved to see who they were, if I could do it with safe- ty. I accordingly led ray horse cautiously towards the light, and heard by the lowing of the cattle, and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, that it was a watering-place, and most hkely belonged to the Moors. Delightful as the sound of the human voice was to me, I resolved once more to strike into the woods, and rather run the ris!. of perishing with hun- ger, than trust myself again in their hands ; but bemg still thirsty, and dreading the approach of the burning day, I thought it prudent to search for the wells, which I expected to find at no grer^t distance. In this pursuit I inadvertently ap- proached so near one of the tents as to be perceived by a wo- wan, who immediately screamed out. The people came running to her assistance from some of the neighbouring tents, and passed so very near me that I thought I was discovered, and hastened again into the woods. "About a mile from this place I heard a loud and confused noise, somewhere to the right of my course, and in a short 388 MUNOO PABK. time was happy to find it was the croaking of fro^, which was heavenly music to my ears. I followed the sound, and at daybreak arriTed at some shallow muddy pools, so full of frogs that is was difficult to discern the water. The noise they made frightened my horse, and I was oblif^ed to keep them quiet by beating the water with a branch until he had drunk. Having here quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree and the morning being clear, I soon perceived the smoke of the watering place which I had passed in the night, and ob- served another pillar of smoke, east-southeast, distant twelve or fourteen miles." Towards this column of smoke, which, as he was informed, arose from a Foulah village, he now directed his course ; but on arriving at the place, was inhospitably driven from every door, except that of an old woman, who kindly received him into her dwelling, and furnished him with food for himself and with provender for his horse. Even here, however, the influence of AH pursued him like his evil genius. The peo- ple who had collected round him while he was eating, began, as he clearly discovered from their expressions, to form the design of carrying him back once more to Benowm or Buba- ker. He therefore hastened his departure, and having wan- dered among the woods all day, passed the night under a tree. In this way he continued his journey, sometimes meeting with hospitality, but more frequently avoiding the dwellings of man, and subsisting upon the wild produce of the woods, and the water of a few pools, to which the croaking of the frogs di- rected him. At length he entered the kingdom of Bambarra, where he found the people more hospitable in proportion as they v jre more opulent than their neighbours. Cultivation was here carried on in a spirited manner and on an extensive scale, and "hunger," as the natives expressed it, "was never known." The country itself was beautiful, intersected on nil sides by rivulets, which, after a rain-storm, were swelled into rapid streams. ParkV horse was now so attenuated by fatigue that it appeared like a mere skeleton, which the traveller, fearing to mount, drove before him as if to scare away the crows. The Bambarrans, whose hospitable disposition was accompa- nied by but little delicacy, were infinitely amused at this droll spectacle. Taking him for a Moor, they supposed from his appearance that he must be one of those religious mendicants who, having performed the pilgrimage to the holy cities, thenceforward consider themselves fully entitled to subsist upon the labours of their industrious coreligionists. " *He bat been at Mecca,* said one; *you may see that by his '•% > MUNOO PARK. 389 elotheg.' Another asked if my horse was sick ; a third wished to purchase it, &.c. So that I beheve the ^very slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company." However, in spite of all this laughter and ridicule, he pro- ceeded on his way, and at length had the satisfaction to be in- formed that on the morrow he should see the Niger, denomi- nated Joliba, or the " Great Water," by the natives. Next morning, the 21st of July, after passing through several large villages, he saw the smoke ascend over Sego, the capital of Bambarra, and felt elated with joy at the thought of drawing near so important an object of his mission. " As we ap- proached the town," says Park, " I was fortunate enough to overtake the fugitive Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been 80 much indebted in my journey through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce rae to the king, and we rode to- gether through some marshy ground, where, as 1 anxiously looked around for t!>e river, one of them called out Geo affilli (see the water); and, looking forward, I saw with infinite pleasure the great object of my mission, — the long sought for, majestic Niger, glittering to the morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly fo the eastward. I hastened to the brink, and having drunk of the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of all things for having thus far crowned my endeavours with success." Sego, the capital of Bambarra, consisted of four distinct to^ns, two on the northern and two on the southern bank of the Niger. The king at this period resided on the southern bank, while Park arrived on the opposite side. The commu- nication between the different quarters of the city was kept up by means of large canoes, which were constantly passing and repassing; notwithstanding which, so great was the pressure of passengers, that Park was compelled to wait upwards of two hours before he could obtain even a chance of being fer- ried over. Meanwhile, the prospect before him was novel and striking in the highest degree. ^^ The view of this extensive city," he observes, "the numerous caitoes on the river, the crowded population, and the cultivated state of the surround- ing country formed altogether a prospect of civilization and magnificence which I little expected to find in the bosom of Africa." While he was thus waiting for a passage, the news was con- veyed to Mansong that a white man was on the banks of the river coming to see him. The king, who seems to have been alarmed at this intelligence, immediately despatched a mes- senger, who was directed to inform the stranger that he would not be admitted into the royal presence until th<. purport of his 390 MUNOO PAKK. miflsioii were made known ; and that, in the mean while, he WBB prohibited from passing the river. He was likewise told that the king desired him to seek lodgings in one of the villa, ges in the vicinity of the capital. As there was no altcmative he at once set out for the village, where, to his great mortifica- tion, he found that no person would admit him into his house. " I was regarded with astonishment and fear,*' he observes, " and was obliged to sit all day without victuals in the shade of a tree ; and the night threatened to be very uncomfortable, for the wind rose, and there was great appearance of a heaTy rain ; and the wild beasts were so very numerous in the neigh- bourhood, that I should have been under the necessity of climbing up a tree, and resting among the branches. About sunset, however, as I was preparing to pass the night in this manner, and had turned my horse loose that he might graze at liberty, a woman returning from the labours of the field stopped to observe me, and, perceiving that I was weary and dejected, inquired into my situation, which I briefly explained to her; whereupon, with looks of great compassion, she took up my saddle and bridle, and told me to follow her. Having conducted me into her hut, she lighted up a lamp, spread a mat upon the floor, and told me I might remain there for the night Finding that I was very hungry, she said she would procure me something to eat ; she accordingly went out, and returned in a short time with a very fine fish, which, having caused to be half-broiled upon some embers, she gave me for supper. The rites of hospitality being thus performed towards a stranger in distress, my worthy benefactress, pointing to the mat, and telling me I might sleep there without apprehension, called to the female part of her family, who had stood gazing on me all the while in fixed astonishment, to resume their task of spinning cotton, in which they continued to employ them- selves great part of the night. They lightened their labour by songs, one of which was composed extempore, for I was my- self the subject of it : it was sung by one of the young women, the rest joining' in a sort of chorus. The air was sweet and plaintive, and the words literally translated were these : — *• The winds roared, and the rains fell ; the poor white man, faint and weary, came and sat under our tree ; he has no mother to bring him milk, no wife to grind his corn.' Chorus: — *Let us pity the white man, no mother has he,* &c. Trifling as this recital may appear to the reader, to a person in my situa- tion the circumstance was affecting in the highest degree. I was oppressed by such unexpected kindness that sleep fled my eyes. In the m ..rning I presented my compassionate land* r t' MUNOO PABK. 391 lady with two of the four brass buttons which remained on my waistcoat, the only recompense I could make her." Although Mansong refused to admit our traveller into his presence, and seemed at first to neglect him, it soon appeared that his conduct did not arise from any churlish or inhospitable feelings ; for while he persisted in his refusal to see him, and signified his pleasure that he should forthwith depart from the city, he sent him a present of five thousand cowries and a guide to Sansanding. Park immediately obeyed the royal command, and learned from the conversation of his guide on the way, that the king's motives for thus dismissing him with- out an audience were at once prudent and liberal, since he feared that by the least show oi* favour he should excite the jealousy and envy of the Moorish inhabitants, from whose in- veterate malice he might be unable to protect him. With this guide he proceeded to Sansanding, where he was hospitably received by the dooty, and would, as the king*8 stranger, have enjoyed much quiet and consideration, had he not had the misfortune to meet with some of his old enemies the Moors, who insisted on accompanying him to the mosque, aad converting him into a Mohammedan at once. However, the dooty, by exerting his authority, freed him from these fonatics, and ordered a sheep to be killed, and part of it to be dressed for his supper. ** About midnight, when the Moors had left me," says Park, " he paid me a Visit, and with much earnestness desired me to write him a saphie. ' If a Moor's sapbie is good,' said this hospitable old man, * a white man's must needs be better.' I readily furnished him with one pos- sessed of all the virtues I could concentrate, for it contained the Lord's Prayer. The pen with which it was written was made of a reed, a little charcoal and gum-water made very tolerable ink, and a thin board answered the purpose of paper." From Sansanding he departed early in the morning, before the Moors were stirring. The road row lay through the woods, and the guide, who understood the dangers of the way, moffcu forward with the greatest circumspection, frequently stopping and looking under the bushes. Upon observing this. Park inquired the reason, and was told that lions were very plenty in that part of the country, and very often attacked travellers in the woods. While they were conversing on this subject, Park discovered a camelopard at a little distance, the fore-legs of which, from a hasty glance, appeared much longer than the hinder. " ShcH'tly after this," says he, " as we were crossing a large open plain where there were a few scattered bushes, my guide, who was a little way heSon me, 393 MUNGO PARK. \f wheeled his horse round in a moment, calling out something in the Fouluh language which I did not understand. I inquired in Mandingo what he meant. *Wara bilibilV (a very large lion) ! said he, and made signs for me to ride away. But my horse was too much fatigued ; so we rode slowly past the bush from which the animal had given us the alarm. Not seeing any thing myself, however, I thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly put his hand to his mouth, exclaim- ing, * Soubah an alluhi' (God preserve us)! and to my great surprise, I then perceived a large red lion at a short distance from the bush, with his head couched between his fore-paws. I expected he would instantly spring upon me, and instinctive- ly pulled my feet from my stirrups to throw myself on the ground, that my horse might become the victim rather than myself. But it is probable that the lion was not hungry ; for he quietly suffered us to pass though we were fairly within his reach." About sunset they arrived at Moodiboo, "a delightful village on the banks of the Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles, both to the east and west. The small green islands, the peaceful retreat of some' industrious Foulahd, whose cattle were here secure from the attat '^ i of wild beasts, and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here much larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the most en- chanting in the world." Park was now so worn out with fa- tigue and suffering, that his landlord, fearing he might die in his house, hurried him away, though he was scarcely able to walk, and his horse still less able to carry him. In fact, they had not proceeded far before the poor beast fell down, and could no more be made to rise ; so that, taking off his saddle and bridle, our traveller with extreme reluctance abandoned him to his fate, and began to toil along on foot after his guide. In this way they reached Kea, a small fishing village on the Niger, where Park embarked in a fisherman's canoe which was going down the stream, while the guide returned to Sego. In this canoe our traveller reached Moorzan, whence he was conveyed across the river to Sill a, a large town on the opposite shore. It was with great difficulty that he here obtained ad- mission into the strangers* room of the dooty's house, a damp, uncomfortable place, where he had a severe paroxysm of fever during the night. Here his resolution and energy, of which no traveller ever possessed a larger share, began at length to fail. No hope of success remained. He therefore, with ex- treme sorrow and anguish of mind, determined on returning whence he had come ; but let me lay before the reader his own limple and man^y account of the matter, which cannot •vVi^nrJU,,* MDKGO pArK. 3d3 foil to impress even the most insensible with veneration for a degree of courage and intrepidity amounting to heroism. " Worn down by sickness, exhausted by hunger and fatigue, half-naked, and without any article of value by which I might procure provisions, clothes, or lodging, I began," says Park, ''to reflect seriously on my situation. I was now convinced by painful experience that the obstacles to my further progress were insurmountable. The tropical rains had already set in with all their violence ;' the rice-grounds and swamps were already overflowed ; and in a few days more, travelling of every kind except by water would be completely obstructed. The cowries which remained of the King of Bambarra's present were not sufiicient to hire a canoe for any great distance ; and I had but little hopes of subsisting by charity in a country where the Moors have such influence. But, above all, I per- ceived I was advancing more and more within the power of those merciless fanatics ; and from my reception both at Sego and Sansanding, I was apprehensive that, in attempting to reach even Jeune, (unless under the protection of some man of consequence among them, which I had no means of obtain- ing,) I should sacrifice my life to no purpose ; for my discove- ries would perish with me. The prospect either way was gloomy. In returning to the Gambia, a journey on fool, of many hundred miles presented itself to my contemplation, through regions and countries unknown. Nevertheless, this seepied to be the only alternative ; for I saw inevitable destruc- tion in attempting to proceed to the eastward. With this con- viction on my mind, I hope my readers will,acknowledge I did right in going no farther. I had made every exertion to execute my mission in its fullest extent which prudence could justify. Had there been the most distant prospect of a successful termination, neither the unavoidable hardships of the journey nor the dangers of a second captivity should have forced me to desist. This, however, necessity compelled me to do." When he had come to this resolution, he thought it incum- bent upon him before he left Silla to collect whatever informa- tion might be within his reach respecting the further course of the Niger, and the situation and extent of the various king- doms in its vicinity. Subsequent travellers have solved the problem, the honour of explaining which was denied to Park. We now know that this great river, after having flowed to a considerable distance eastward of Timbuctoo, makes a bend or elbow like the Burrampooter, and after pursuing a south- westerly course, falls into the Atlantic Ocean on the coast of Beain. 84 •^. ,.«v . *, 9H MUNOO PABK. >■'»•■**' On tlie 30th of July our traveller commenced bis return westward, by the same route through which be had reached Silla. In a few days he recovered his horse, which had in some measure regained its strength, though it was still too weak to be ridden. The rainy season having now set in, the whole of the plain country was quickly inundated; so that our traveller was often in danger of losing his way while tra- versing savannahs many miles in extent, knee-deep in water. In several places he waded breast-deep across the swanipg. the huts of the villages in which he passed the night, being undermined or softened by the rain, often fell in ; and the noise of their fall sometimes kept him awake, expecting that his own might be the next. His situation was now even worse than during his progress eastward. A report had been widely circulated that he was a spy, in consequence of which he was in some places civilly refused admittance into the towns, in others repulsed from the gates with violence ; so that he now appeared inevitably doomed to perish of hunger. However, when the fatal hour seemed at hand, some charitable being always appeared with a poor but seasonable supply, such, per- haps, as a little raw corn, which prolonged his life, and suppli- ed him with strength to achieve his memorable journey. ''On the evening of the 15th of August I arrived," says Park, " at a small village called Song, the surly inhabitants of which would not receive mc, nor so much as permit me to enter the gate ; but as lions were very numerous in this neighbourhood, and I had frequently in the course of the day seen the impres- sion of their feet upon the road, I resolved to stay in the vicini- ty of the village. Having collected some grass for my horse, i accordingly laid down under a-tree by the gate. About ten o*clock I heard the hollow roar of a lion at no great distance, and attempted to open the gate ; but the people from within told me that no person must attempt to enter the gate without the dooty*s permission. I begged them to inform the dooty that a lion was approaching the village, and I hoped he would allow me to come within the gate. I waited for an answer to this message with great anxiety ; for the lion kept prowling round the village, and once advanced so very near me that I heard him rustling among the grass, and climbed the tree for safety. About midnight the dooty with some of his people opened the gate and desired me to come in. They were con- vinced, they said, I was not a Moor ; for no Moor ever waited any time at the gate of a village without cursing the inhabi- tants." The history of this journey now becomes nothing more than a repetition of similar sufferings. Hunger, fatigue, and de* •> HUNOO PARK. 3d5 > m water. pression of spirits attack the traveller by turns. Nothing, how- erer, subdues his courage. Obstacle after obstacle yields to hia persevering intrepidity, and he pushes forward with invin- cible ardour towards the coast. ' In one place, at the request of a native who had grown opulent by industrious application to commerce, he wrote charms for a good supper ; and, find- ing the contrivance productive, continued the practice next day for small presents of various kinds. On other occasions, nrhere superstition did not come to his aid, humanity Inter- posed, and snatched him from starvation. At Bammakoo he was hospitably treated, even by a Moor, who, having travelled to Rio Grande, had conversed with Christians, and conceived a favourable idea of their character. The rains had now in- creased the Niger to a vast size, and rendered impassab^ almost every road ; but as our traveller's finances had long been exhausted, he found himself compelled to proceed, the charity of the natives not extending so far as to the maintain- ing of a stranger for several months. Tbe ordinary roads being obstructed by the rains, the only practicable route, wild, dreary, and desolate, lay over steril rocky mountains, over which, it was feared, a horse could not pass. Finding that a singing-man was about to proceed by this road to Sibidooloo, Park placed himself under his guidance, and quitted Bammakoo. He had not proceeded far, however, before his companion, finding that he had taken the wrong path, escaped among the rocks, and left him to find his way how he might. He soon arrived at a village, where he was entertain- ed with hospitality, and where he passed the night. Next day, as he was quietly pursuing his course, a troop of peasants pre- sented themselves, whom he at first took fbr elephant-hunters, but who very shortly proved themselves to be banditti. Pre- tending to arrest him in the name of the King of the Foulahs, they commanded him to follow them, until, having reached a da<'k lonely part of a wood, one of them exclaimed in t!ie Mandingo language, " This place will do!" and immediately snatched his hat from his hiead. " Though I was by no means free from apprehension," says Park, "yet I was resolved to show as few signs of fear as possible ; and therefore told them, that unless my hat was returned to me I should proceed no farther. But before I had time to receive an answer, another drew a knife, and, seizing upon a metal button whi^h remain- ed upon my waistcoat, cut it off, and put it into his pocket. Their intentions were now obvious; and I thought that the easier they were permitted to rob me of every thing, the less I had to fear. I therefore allowed them to search my pockets without resistance, and examine every part of my appord* #^ € *< MUNOO PARK. which they did with the most scrupulous exactness. But, ob- serving that I had one waistcoat under another, they insisted that I should cast them both off ; and at last, to make sure work, stripped me quite naked. Even my half-boots, though the sole of one of them was tied on to my foot with a broken bridle-rein, were minutely inspected. While they were ex- amining the plunder, I begged them with great earnestness to return my pocket-compass ; but when I pointed it out to them, as it was lying on the ground, one of the banditti, thinking I was about to take it up, cocked his musket, and swore he would lay me dead upon the spot if I presumed to put my hand upon it. And after this, some of them went awuy with my horse, and the remainder stood considering whether they should leavs me quite naked, or allow me something to shelter me from the sun. Humanity at last prevailed ; they returned me the worst of the two shirts and a pair of trowsers; and, ns they went away, one of them threw back my hat, in the crown of which I kept my memorandums; and this was probably the reason why they did not wish to keep it." . This was the most terrible misfortune that had hitherto be- fallen him, and at first, his mind appeared to sink under the united influence of grief and terror. For a while he sat in sullen dejection, half-persuaded that he had no alternative bnt to lie down and perish. Presently, however, thoughts of reli gion, and a reliance upon Providence, succeeding this extreme dejection, his mind gradually regained its fervent tone: — " I was, indeed, a stranger," he thought, *' in a strange land; yet I was still under the protecting eye of that I'l evidence, who has condescended tp call himself the stranger's friend. At this moment, painful as my reflections were, the extraordinary beauty of a small moss in fructification, irresistibly caught my eye. I mention this to show from what trifling circumstances the mind will sometimes derive consolation ; for though the whole plant was not larger than the top of one of my fingers, I could not contemplate the delicate conformation of its roots, leaves, and capsula without admiration. Can that Being (thought I) who planted, watered, and brought to perfection, in this obscure part of the world, a thing which appears of so small importance, look with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of creatures formed after his own image ? Surely not ! Reflections like these would not allow me to despair ; I started up, and, disregarding both danger and fatigue, tra- velled forwards, assured that relief was at hand ; and I was not disappointed." On arriving at Sibidooloo, Park related to the mansa, or chief of the town, the misfortune which had befallen him. Jm • MUNOO PARK. 397 Tbis humane and excellent mnn, having heard him patiently to an end, took the pipe from his mouth, and tosving up the sleere of his coat with an indignant air, " Sit down," said he, • ^ MDNGO PARK. 403 behind, being attacked by fever, the first effect of which in those countries is to deprive the sufferer of his energies. Having remained for some time by the wayside with his dying friend, he placed him, when his strength appeared for a mo- ment to return, upon his horse, and pushed forward towards their proposed halting-place, leading the horse by the bridle. •*We had not proceeded above a mile," says Park, "before we heard on our lefl a noise very much like the barking of a large mastiff, but ending in a liiss like the fuff** of a cat. I thought it must be some large monkey ; and was observing to Mr. Anderson, ' What a bouncing fellow that must be,* when we heard another bark nearer to us, and presently a third still nearer, accompanied with a growl. I now suspected some wild beast meant to attack us, but could not conjecture of what species it was likely to be. We had not proceeded a hundred yards farther, when, coming to an opening in the bushes, I was not a little surprised to see three lions coming towards us. They were not so red as the lion I had formerly seen in Bambarra, but of a dusky colour, like that of an ass. They were very large, and came bounding over the long grass, not one afler another, but all abreast of each other. I was afraid, if I allowed them to come too near us, and my piece should miss fire, that we should all be devoured by them. I therefore let go the bridle, and walked forwards to meet them. As soon as they were within a long shot of me, I fired at the centre one. I do not think I hit him ; but they all stopped, looked at each other, and then bounded away a few paces, when one of them stopped and looked back at me. I was too busy in loading my piece to observe their Qiotions as they went away, and was very happy to see the last of them march slow- ly off' among the bushes. We had not proceeded above half a mile farther when we heard another bark and growl close to us among the bushes. This was, doubtless, one of the lions be- fore seen ; and I was afraid they would follow us till dark, when they would have too many opportunities of springing on us unawares. We however heard no more of them." At length, from the brow of a hill. Park had once more the satisfaction of beholding the Niger, rolling its immense stream along the plain. But he was in no niood of mind to triumph at the sight. The majority of bis companions had fallen on the way ; of thirty-four soldiers and four carpenters who kft the Gambia, only six soldiers and one carpenter reached the * vPh^Is anexpreadve Scotch word, applicable in its oiigiul explosive noise which a cat makea in flying at a dog. to the * tnmini; induced the chief to withhold the presents firom the kin^. 406 MUNOO PAB(t. is before this village a rock across the whole breadth of the river. One part of the rock is very high ; there is a large opening in that rock in the form of a door, which is the only passage for the water to pass through ; the tide current is here very ^trong. This army went and took possession of the top of this opening. Mr. Park came there after the army had posted itself; he nevertheless attempted to pass. The people began to attack him, throwing lances, pikes, arrows, and stones. Mr. Park defended himself for a long time ; two of his slaves at the stern of the canoe were killed ; they threw every thing they had in the canoe into the river, and kept firing; but being overpowered by numbers, and fatigued, and unable to keep up the canoe against the current, and no probability of escaping, Mr. Park took hold of one of the white men and jumped into the water ; Martyn did the same, and they were drowned in the stream in attempting to escape. The only slave remaining in the boat, seeing the natives persist in throw- ing weapons at the canoe without ceasing, stood up and said to them, ' Stop throwing now, you see nothing in the canoe, and nobody but myself; therefore cease. Take me and the canoe, but don't kill me.' They took possession of the canoe and the man, and carried them to the king. " I was kept in irons three months ; the king released me, and gave me a slave (woman.) I immediately went to the slave taken in the canoe, who told me in what manner Mr. Park and all of them had died, and what I have related above. I asked him if he was sure nothing had been found in the canoe after its capture ; he said nothing remained in the canoe but himself and a sword-belt. I asked him where the sword- belt was ; he said the king took it, and had made a girth for his horse with it." Such is the narrative of Amadi Fatouma ; and the inform- ation since obtained in the country by Captain Clapperton cor- roborates almost every imf>ortant circumstance which it de- scribes. It appears, however, that certain books (whether printed or manuscript does not appear) were found in Park's canoe, some of which were still in the possession of the chief of Yaour when Clapperton made his inquiries ; but the wily African, who no doubt expected a valuable present for these relics, refused to deliver them to our traveller's messenger, and Clapperton himself, for some reason or another not stated, ne^ected to visit this chief in person. It should be remarked, that the Africans who were questioned by Clapperton seemed all exceedingly desirous of exculpating their countrymen, per- haps their own friends and relations, from the charge of having 4^ ^A •■rm. ~ i *- ;.- MUXGO PARK. 409 Ith of the '8 a large 9 the only ent is here of the top army had he people ows, and B ; two of ley threw ept firing; id unable >ability of men and hey were rhe only in throw- and said e canoe, ! and the he canoe ased me, It to the mer Mr. d abo?e. d in the 'le canoe 5 sword- girth for inform- rton cor- h it de- whether I Park's chief of he wily >r these isenger, i stated, narked, seemed }n, per- haviog 35* 410 MUNGO PARK. murdered Park and his companions ; according to one narra- tor, the canoe was caught between two rocks, where the river, being obstructed in its course, rushed through its narrow chan- nel with prodigious rapidity. Here the travellers, in attempt- ing to disembark, were drowned in the sight of an immense multitude who had assembled to see them pass, and were too timid to attack or assist them. On another occasion, howev- er, the same person confessed that his countrymen did indeed discharge their arrows at the travellers, but not until they had been fired upon from the canoe. But the sheriff of Bokhary, whose letter was found among the MSS. of Clapperton, asserts that the inhabitants of Boussa went out against the white men in great numbers, and attacked them during three successive days ; after which Park and Martyo, who from this account would appear to have been the only European survivors, threw their papers and baggage into the water, and leaping in after them were drowned in the stream. It would answer no use- ful purpose to push these inquiries any further at present, as we in reality possess no sufficient materials for coming to any definite conclusion. There can be no doubt that Mungo Park perished on the Niger, near Boussa, or that the Africans were the cause, mediate or immediate, of his death. His character will be best understood by a careful examination of his hfe ; but it may be useful to remark, in conclusion, that, although his natural prudence seems partly to have forsaken him during his second journey, few men have possessed in a higher degree the virtues of a traveller — intrepidity, enthusiasm, persever- ance, veracity, prudence ; his manners, likewise, though some- what too stiff and reserved, must upon the whole have been agreeable, since he was able both in civilized and savage countries to gain and preserve many friends ; among whom by far the most distinguished was Sir Walter Scott, with whom, during the interval between his two journeys, he Uved on terms of the greatest intimacy. ■p- DIXON DENHAM. Colonel Dixon. Denham, well known by his expedition into Central Africa, was born at London, in 1786, and after finishing his studies at school, was placed with a solictor, but in 1811, entered the army as a volunteer, and served in the peninsular campaigns. After the general peace, he was re- duced to half-pay on the peace establishment, and, in 1819, was admitted into the senior department of the Royal Military College at Famham. His courage, address, firmness, perse- verance, and moderation, his bold, frank, energetic disposi- tion, and his conciliating manners, peculiarly fitted him for the enterprize which in company with Captain Clapperton, he un- dertook in the years 1823-4. We allude to the enterprize of exploring Central Africa. HUGH CLAPPERTON Captain Hugh Clapperton, the African traveller, was born in Annan, in Dumfries-shire, in 1788. After some ele- mentary instruction in practical mathematics, he was bound apprentice, at the age of 13, to the owner of a vessel trading between Liverpool and North America, in which he made several voyages. He was then impressed into his Brittannic majesty's service, was soon af er made a midshipman, served on the American lakes in 1815, and, in 1816 received tlie coniimission of lieutenant. Having retired to Scotland, he became acquainted with Dr. Oudney» who was about to em- bark for Africa, and reques ed permission to accompany hinh Lieutenant (since Colonel) Denham having volunteered his services, and it being intended that researches should be made, to the east. and west, from Bornou, where Dr. Oudney was to reside as British consul, his name was- added to the expedition hy lord Bathurst . 'f • DENHAU AND CLAPPERTON. 413 Nothing could shake the determination of the British go- veroment to obtain, by some means or other, a competent degree of information respecting the unknown countries of Africa. The great favour and influence enjoyed at the court of Tripoli wiis still regarded as a favourable circumstance. It was chiefly due to the prudence and ability of Mr. Warring- ton, without whose advice scarcely any thing of importance was transacted. The bashaw was therefore disposed to renew his protection to any mission which Britain might send. Nor could the protection of any sovereign have been more effi- cient ; for the influence of this petty prince and the terror of his name are almost unbounded in the greatest kingdoms of Central Africa. One weapon, the gun, in the hands of his troops, gives him all this superiority ; for the remoter nations, from the Nile to the Atlantic, scarcely know any other arms besides the spear, the bow, and the javelin. A musket among those tribes is an object of almost supernatural dread ; indi- viduals have been seen kneeling down before it, speaking to it in whispers, and addressing to it earnest supplications. With troops thus armed, the bashaw of Tripoli is esteemed in North Africa the most potent monarch on earth; and it is a matter of surprise among the natives that he has not ere now compelled all Europe to embrace the Mohammedan faith. He could therefore assure the English, that for any but physical obstacles, they might travel as safely from Tripoli to Bornou, as from Edinburgh to London. Under the confidence inspired by these circumstances, the British government prepared an expedition, and without diffi- culty procured a band of adventurers, who undertook to brave all its perils. Major Denham, Lieutenant Clapperton, and Dr. Oudney, were appointed to this service. Without delay they proceeded to Tripoli, where they arrived on the 18th of November, 182L They were immediately introduced to the bashaw, whom they found sitting cross-legged on a carpet, at- tended by armed negroes. After treating them to sherbet and coffee, he invited them to a hawking party, where he appeared mounted on a milk-white Arabian steed superbly caparisoned, having a saddle of crimson velvet richly studded with gold nails, and with embroidered trappings. He was preceded by six chaotuheSf or officers, in white silk robes ; while two fa- ~ vourite negro slaves, in glittering vest, light burnouse, and white turban, supported him on each side. The hunt began on the borders of the Desert, where parties of six or eight Arabs dashed forwards quick as lightning, fired suddenly, and rushed back with loud cries. The skill with which they ma- **'" 414 DBNHAM AND CLAPPERTON. noQuvred their steeds, whirling the long musket orer their heads aa they rode at full gallop, appeared quite surprising. Although the English were personally well treated at Tri- poli, they could not shut their eyes to the reigning barbarism. The sheik, Belgassum Khalifa, a fine old Arab, \)nderstood to be high in the favour of the bashaw, had been one evening at en elegant entertainment in the palace, when on reaching his own door, a pistol-shot wounded him in the arm, and on his entering the passage another penetrated his body. He stag- gered into the house, denouncing his own nephew as the author of the assassination. The murderers rushed in, and completed their crime by stabbing him seven times with their daggers, while his wife received two wounds in endeavouring to save him. The three actors in this tragedy instantly fled for protection to the British consulate ; but Mr. Warrington sent notice to the bashaw, ** that the murderers of Khalifa would find no protection under the flag of England." That chief, however, either privy to the crime, or disposed to wink at its commission, exp^'essed his regret that the guilty persons had found shelter in the consulate ; but added, that he could not think of violating such a sanctuary. Repeated assurance was given that he might send any force, or use any means, to drag them from beneath a banner that never was disgraced by giving protection to assassins. The bashaw at length, ashamed of his apathy, sent sixteen stout fellows, by whom the ruffians were seized ; and in less than an hour the murderers weie seen hanging from the castle-walls. Tlie mission, fortified with recommendations to the sultan of Fezzan, now entered upon their long and dreary pilgrimage to Mourzouk, where they arrived on the 8th of April, 18?2 This prince received them with courtesy and afiability, but gave himself very little troutie in making provision for the continuance of their journey. He even intimated his inten- tion of visiting Tripoli, and the necessity of their remaining till his return. This arrangement was mcst disheartening; nor did they know what reliance ti place in the sincerity of Boo Khalloom, a great merchant, who invited ihem to accom- pany an expedition which he was preparing for Soudan. The sultan and he soon after departed, each with large presents for the bashaw, to intrigue against one another at the court of Tripoli. After this there was scarcely a camel (eft in Fezzan, or any other means of prosecuting discovery. Major Donham then saw no alternative but that he himself should hasten back to Tripoli, and remonstrate with ihe bashaw, on the appa- rent violatioa of his promise. After a tedious journey of a. DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 415 rers weie twenty days, with only three attendants, he arrived, and wait- ed on the barbarian, who received him with Lis usual courtesy ; bui, not giving that full satisfaction which was expected, the Major lost no time in setting sail for England, to lodge a com- plaint with his own court. This step was painfully felt by the basbaw, who sent vessel after vessel, one of which at last over- took Major Denham while performing quarantine at Marseilles, and announced that arrangements were actually made with Boo Khalloom for escorting him to the capital of Bomou. Accordingly, on the Major^s return to Tripoli, he found the Arab chief already on the borders of the Desert. This trader, who was now to be a guide to the English into the immense regions of the south, was a personage of a very different character from what we in this country can form any idea oi'. The African caravan-merchant has nothing in com- mon with that respectable class of men who, seated in count- ing houses at London or Amsterdam, direct the movement of their ships over the ocean, and count the silent accumulation of their profits. He, on the contrary, must accompany his merchandise from one extremity to the other of a great conti- nent, and across its immense deserts, the scene of much suffer- ing, and frequently of death itself. Nor is it from a parched w0derness and a burning climate that he has roost to appre- hend. His path is every where beset by bands whose trade is plunder, pnd who find amusement in assassination. He must therefore htwi his property guarded by armed men, ready to defend with tneir blood what his money has purchased. These foilowers, being in continual service, and exposed to frequent (igh*:ing, become practised soldiers, and are more than a match for the roving barbarians who infest the Sahara. Even the greatest princes view these merchant-chiefs with fear and jealousy ; and though they contrive to draw considerable ad- vantage from their trade, scarcely consider the kingdom as their own while their troops are within its boundaries. The merchants, unhappily, do riot confine themselves to self- defence ; but, seeing roLbery practised on every side against themselves, begin to retaliate, and soon fin ' it cheaper, and, according to African ideas, not less honourable, to replenish their stores by plunder than by purchase. Slaves, the staple of their trade, are generally obtained by the most atrocious violence, in expeditions called ghrazziss or f elate as ^ underta- ken solely for that guilty purpose ; but, by engaging in such enterprises themselves, the merchants enjoy the benefit, since they reckon it such, of paying in blood instead of money. Provided they can escape the dangers and casualties to which they are exposed, their profits are immenr?, the value of mecr >■> *« r*. t. / ^ ,.^. 416 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. chandise being somewhat more than tripled by its conveyance across the Desert. Thus a few successful journeys enable a man to acquire a fortune almost princely, and a high degree of influence in the Barbary States. In short, the merchant, the warrior, the prince, the thief, are united in this extraordinary eha/acter ; and he is prepared, according to circumstances, to act in one or in all of these capacities. Yet Boo Khalloom might be reckoned a good specimen of this evil race. He possessed an enlarged and liberal mind, and was honourable, and even humane, so far as a slave-merchant could retain these qualities ; he was dragged, too, with reluctance into the most odious parts of his vocation, — v/hile at home his generosity was such as to make him almost idolized. Under the guidance of this remarkable personage Major Denham set forth, with almost the full assurance of reaching those depths of Africa from which no European had ever yet returned. Little occurred to diversify the usual monotony of a desert route, till they arrived at Sockna, where Boo W.r]- loom, who was fond of display, determined to make his <..:■ trance with almost kingly pomp. He rode a white Tunisian horse, with gilded saddle and trappings of scarlet cloth border- ed with g jM ; his dress consisted of various caftans and robes of the richest silks, adorned with gold buttons, lace, and em- broidery : the burnouse, a present from the bashaw, had cost four hundred dollars. The citizens meeting the party with shouts and guns, and the females with singing and dancing, formed a species of triumphal procession. Several days were spent at Sockna, Boo Khalloom being ill, and wishing to try the effect of various charms and superstitious remedies. The English, meantime, witnessed a great marriage ceremony, the chief pomp of which consisted in placing the bride in a basket on the back of a camel and leading her round the town, while numerous horsemen galloped up and discharged their muskets quite close to her head ; the honour of which comphment wss understood to compensate for the fear which it coi*!d not fail to occasion. In journeying onwards to Mourzouk the travellers passed along the naked sides of the Gebel Assoud, which the Major crossed now for the third time; but no familiarity could relieve the sense of dreariness and misery which its aspect occasioned. A rainy day came as a blessing to the whole party, especially to the poor slaves, on whom Boo Khalloom had only in special kindness bestowed one draught of water in the day to cool their burning thirst. On the 30th of October the caravan made its entry into Mourzouk with similar pomp as into Sock- ii%amid.tiie shouts of the inhabitants, whom the chief, by his fc* DENUAM AND CLAPPERTON. 417 liberality, had inspued with tlie warmest attachment. The Major, however, was much disheartened by not seeing any of his countrymen amid the joyous crowd ; and his fears were confirmed by finding Dr. Oudney just recovering from a severe attack in the chest, and Mr. Clapperton in bed the fifteenth day with ague, — facts which, combined with the unfortunate result of the last expedition, and the sickly look of the natives 't emselves, indicated some peculiarlv baneful influence, with- out any visible cause, in the climate of Mourzouk. Invalids so severely afflicted were not very fit to begin a long and laborious journey ; but their ardour was extreme, and imagining that a change of air would be beneficial, they con- trived, even before Boo Khalloom was ready to set out, to move forward to Gatrone, leaving Major Denham behind at Mourzouk. On the 29th of November the whole caravan broke up from that city, and began their journey through the Desert. They were escorted by nearly every inhabitant who could muster a horse. The expedition, besides the English, comprised two hundred and ten Arabs, ranged in tens and twenties, under different chiefs. The most numerous were the M'Garha, who, to the amount of seventy, came from the barren shore of the Syrtes. These barbarians enlivened the route by their traditionary tales, their songs, their extemporary poems, in which all the incidents of .the journey itself were narrated ; in short, by an inexhaustible fund of wit and vivacity. Their pride, their revenge, their robberies, did not come into view in their intercourse with the English, who, being received into their camp, having eaten of their bread and salt, and being bound in the cord of friendship, were entitled to uU the rights of hospitality, and would have been protected even at the bfizard of life. T.'ic caravan arrived in due time at Traghan, a small town r (filing a fine carpet-manufactory, and ruled by a mara- :■- V „o used the sanctity of his character to maintain order anu r oinote the prosperity of the place. Passing that station they were scon in the heart of the Desert, where they spent whole days without seeing a living thing, even a bird or an in- sect, that dirl not belong to the caravan itself After painful marches under the direct action of the solar rays, they were delighted by the stillness and beauty of the night. The moon and stars shoi^e with peculiar brilliancy ; cool breezes suc- ceeded to the burning heat of the day ; and on removing a few inches of the loose hot soil, a soft and refreshing bed was obtainf>d. Even the ripple of the blowing sand sounded like a ^ende and murmuring stream. Every noise was rendered doubly impressive by ths deep stillness, as well as by an echo 36 C: 418 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. from the surface of the surrounding waste. The road derived a very peculiar aspect from the quantity of salt with which the soil was impregnated ; the clods were often cracked so as to resemble a ploughed field ; and from the sides of cavities were hanging beautiful crystals of that mineral like the finest frost- work. Sometimes the ground for several miles was glazed over, resembhng a sheet of ice ; but though the surface was very hard, the interior was brittle, and the salt ftU away in flakes. The travellers had not proceeded far Avlien the mehnchoiy aspect of the Desert was heightened by a succession of objects which could not be viewed without the deepest horror. The ground was strewed with the skeletons of former travellers, who had perished in the attempt to cross this extensive wilder- ness. These at first appeared singly, but afterwards increased till they ' ted to fifty or sixty in a day. At Meshroo a hundred w ;en together; and near the wells at El Hammar they were fou^.d lying in countless multitudes. One forenoon, as Major Denham was dozing on horseback, he was awaken- ed by the sound of something crashing under his horse's feet, and on looking down, saw the animnl trampling on two per- fect human skeletons. A movement of one of the feet had separated the scull from the trunk, and driven it for>vard like a ball. In some of these remains portions of the fiesh and hair were left, and even the features were scill distinguishable. Two female skeletons lay closely twined together, having evi- dently been faithful friends, who had died in each other's arms. The Arabs gave little proof of their boasted sensibility in the utter indifference with which they viewed these dismal objects, driving about the limbs with their firelocks, passing coarse jests upon the dead, and deriding the sympathy mani- fested by their English companions. They told them these were only blat 'is, "damn their fathers," — the barbarous pre- judices arising from difference of religion and lineage having thus extinguished in their breasts every touch of human sym- pathy. Major Denham appears in one place to countenance the popular belief that these bodies were the remains of cara- vans buried beneath tempests of moving sand ; but none of his facts support this conclusion, or contradict the opinion of Browne, that such victims have in most instances perished from other causes. They were lying open and exposed, with- out even a covering of dust; and the catastrophe of the largest group was too well known, having been a body of slaves, the cliief booty obtained by the sultan of Fezzan during his last expedition into Soudan. The troop had left Bornou without an adequate supply of provisions, which failed entirely before vt*^ DENHAM AND CLAPPERTOX. 419 they approached Mourzouk. That want, or perhaps fatigue, was the real cause of this destruction was manifest from the fact that the sufferers were all negroes, while their Arab mas- ters had taken care to reserve for themselves the means of reaching home. In this r»»ute the travellers had on one side the Tibboos, on the other the Tuaricks, two native tribes, probably of great an- tiquity, and having no alliance with the Arab race, now so widely spread over the continent. The Tibboos were on the left, and it was through their villages that the caravan passed. These people live partly on the milk of their camels, which pick up a scanty subsistence on the few verdant spots that rise amid the Desert, partly by carrying on a small trade between Mourzouk and Bornou, in which they are so busily employed that many do not spend at home more than four months in the year. They are black, though M'^ithout the negro features ; the men ugly, but the young females possessed of some beau- ty, not wholly obscured by the embellishments of coral stuck in the nose, and of oil streaming over the face. They are be- sides a gay, good-humoured, thoughtless race, with all the African passion for the song and the dance ; which last they practise gracefully, and with movements somewhat analogous to the Grecian. This cheerfulness appears wonderful, con- sidering the dreadful calamity with which they are threatened every day. Once a year, or oftener, an inroad is made by their fierce neighbours, the Tuaricks, who spare neither age nor sex, and sweep away all that comes within their reach. The cowardly Tibboos dare not even look them in the face ; they can only mount to the top of certain steep rocks with flat summits and perpendicular sides, near one of which every village is built. They carry up with them every thing that can be removed, and this rude defence avails against still ruder as- sailants. The savage Tuaricks, again, were observed by Olapperton and Oudney in a journey to the westward from Mourzouk, and were found in their private character to be frank, honest, n 1 hospitable. The females are neither im- mursd nor oppressed, as is usual among rude and Mohamme- dan tribes, but meet with notice and respect; indeed, the domestic habits of this nation have much resemblance to the European. They are a completely wandering race of shep- Ijerds and robbers, holding in contempt all who live in houses and cultivate the ground ; yet they are, perhaps, the only na- tive Africans who have letters and an alphabet, which they in- scribe, not on books and parchments indeed, but on the dark rocks that checker the surface of their territory ; and in places ■»;^ f^ S- 4,* 420 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. where they have long resided every stone is seen covered with their writings. Bilma, the capital of tiie Tibboos, was found a mean town with walls of earth, but surrounded by numerous lakes con- taining the purest salt, the most valuable of all articles for the commerce of Soudan. The inhabitants, however, though deeply mortified, durst not prevent the powerful Tuaricks from lading their caravans with it, and underselling them in all the markets. About a mile beyond Bilma was a fine spring, spreading around, and forming a little circle of the richest verdure. This was the last vegetable hfe that the dis- coverers were to see during a long march of thirteen days. In these wilds, where the constant drift causes hills to rise or dis- appear in the course of a night, all traces of a road are soon obliterated, and the eye of the traveller is guided only by dark rocks which at certain intervals raise their heads amid the sterile waste. Sometimes the sand is formed into hills with perpendicular sides, from twenty to sixty feet high. These the camels are made to slide down ; in which operation they can only be kept steady by the driver hanging with all his weight on the tail, otherwise they would tumble forward, and throw the load over their heads. " Tremendously dreary are these marches ; as far as the eye can reach, billows of sand bound the prospect." Whenever the wind was high, volumes of this sul9stance darkened the air, through which it was sometimes impossible to attempt a passage. After a fortnight spent in the Desert, the expedition saw symptoms of « return to the region of life. There appe'.rcd scattered spots of thin herbage ; little valleys watered by springs were filled with the shrub called suag^ on which grew delicate berries ; small herds of gazelles fed in these retreats ; even the droves of hyenas indicated the revival of animal na- ture. As the travellers advanced, the country improved ; at every mile the valleys became more gay and verdant ; and the creeping vines of the colocynth in full bloom, with the red flowers of the kossom^ converted many of these spots into a little Arcadia. The freshness of the air, with the melody of the hundred songsters that were perched among the creeping plants, whose flowers difiused an aromatic odour, formed the most delightful contrast to the desolate region through which they had passed. Here again were found Tibboos, of the tribe called Gunda, a more alert and active people than the former; the men still uglier, the girls still handsomer and more delicate- ly formed. This sept have about five thousand camels, on whose milk alone they support themselves for half the year, ' / ft>- DENIIAM AND CLAPPERTON. 421 tod their horses for the whole year; the little crop ofgusmb and millet being too precious for th( se animals, which drink cameFs milk, sweet or sour, and by chis strange diet are kept in the highest heahh and condition. The chief, Mina Tahr, or the Black Bird, waited upon the party, and was presented by Boo Khalloom with a coarse scarlet burnouse and a tawdry silk caftan : these paltry dresses, being the finest that had ever invested the person of this chieftain, threw him into ecstasies of dehght, which he continued for hours to testify by joyful shouts and high leaps into the air. Major Denham's watch singularly delighted him ; but solely, as soon appeared, from the pleasure of seeing his own person in the bright metallic case; so that a very small mirror was deemed still more precious. In this approach to the territory of Soudan the English be- gan to witness the exercise of mutual plunder between the caravan and the natives. Every animal which straggled from the main body was instantly carried off; even a dog had been eaten up, and only the bones left. A herald, handsomely equipped, who had been sent forward to the sultan of Bornou, was found stripped, and tied naked to a tree. On the other hand, no sooner did the caravan come in view of any village than the inhabitants were descried on the plain beyond in full flight with all their effects. The Arabs pursued, in indigna- tion only, as they pretended, at not being allowed to purchaise what they wanted • but the conduct of the poor natives was evidently the result of long experience ; and Major Denham saw executed on one party the most rapid process of plunder he ever witnessed. In a few seconds the camels were eased of their loads, and the poor women and girls stripped to the skin. Boo Khalloom, on this and other occasions, interposed, and insisted on restitution ; but whether he would equally have done so without the urgent remonstrances of the EngUsh ap- pears to be doubtful. The expedition, now advancing rapidly, entered Kanem, the most northern province of Bornou, and soon arrived at Lari, a town of two thousand inhabitants, composed of clusters of rush-huts, conical at top, and looking like well-thatched corn-stacks. This plac;> formed a remarkable stage in their progress ; for, from the rising ground in front of it was seen stretching out the boundless expanse of the great interior sea of Africa, the lake Tchad, *' glowing with the golden rays of the sun." Major Denham, who saw here the key to his grand scheme of discovery, hastened down to the shores of this mighty water. These were darkened with the varied and beautiful plumage of ducks, geese, pelicans, and cranes four or 36* Mjk ' 422 DENHABI AND CLAPPERTON. five feet high, immense spoonbills of snow j whiteness, yeilow- legged plorers, with numerous unknown waterfowl, sporting around, and quietly feeding at half pistol-shot. It is not to be wondered at, that Major Denham should have felt reluctant to invade the profound tranquillity of these feathered tribes, and betray the confidence with which they received him. At last, overcoming his scruples, he took up his gun, and soon filled a large basket. It was evident here, that remarkable changes in the bed of the Tchad had recently tpken place; for, thoujsrh this was not the rainy season, long stalks of the grain called gussub were growing amid the waters on ground formerly dry. The caravan now marched along the shores of the lake, and arrived in two days at Woodie, a large town, the first which was found thoroughly negro. The inhabitants lived in slug- gish plenty, on the produce of a fertile country, without any attempt to obtain either elegancies or luxuries. It was resolv- ed that the caravan should pause here, till a messenger could be sent forward to obtain for them invitation, or permission, to present themselves before the sheik of Bornou. The political state of that country was at this time somewhat singular. Twenty years before it had been overrun and completely con- quered, with the most dreadful devastation, by the Fellatas, a western people, *.o whose empire Bornou seemed to have been finally annexed. There still remained, however, a spirit in the people which spurned at a foreign yoke. The present sheik, a native of Kanem, of humble birth, but of superior talents and energy, rallied round him a band of bold spearmen, and, animating them by a pretended vision of the prophet, hoisted the green flag, and attacked the invaders. His success was such, that in ten months the Fellatas were completely driven out of Bornou, which they had never since re-entered, though desultory hostilities were still waged between the two nations. Tins leader, idolized by the army who had conquered under him, was now the real master of the country, yet the reverence of the nation for their ancient line of kings was too deep to allow the legitimate heir to be wholly superseded. He was drawn forth from obscurity, received the title of sultan, and was established in empty pomp at the city of Birnie; while the successful soldier, under an humbler name, retained in his own hands all the real power of the kingdom. After five days an invitation arrived from the sheik to visit him at Kouka, for which city the travellers immediately de- parted. In their way they passed the Yeou, the first river of any description which had crossed their path in this long journey, exciting considerable interest from being for a mo- loent supposed to be the Niger flowing from Timbuctoo. The DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 423 stream was fifty yards broad, and proceeded ivith some rapid- ity eastward into the Tchad : in the wet season its breadth became twice as great. On the bank, for the convenience of passengers, lay two large canoes, rudely put together, con- structed of planks fastened by cords, and having the openings staffed with straw. The men and goods were ferried over on these rafts, while the horses and camels, having their heads fastened to them, swam across. In approaching Kouka, Major Denham experienced con- siderable emotion, in consequence of the contradictory reports which he heard respecting the array and aspect of this great central court of Africa. Some told him that the sheik was surrounded by a mere handful of half-armed, half-naked ne- groes, fit only for plunder ; while, according to others, he was at the head of a numerous cavalry, highly equipped and well- disciplined. The Major pressed eagerly forward before the main body, and, emerging from the forest, had his curiosity gratified by seeing a body of several thousand horse drawn up in line, and extending on each side as far as the eye could reach. He now awaited the coming up of the Arabs ; at sight of Trhom the Bornou troops, who had previously stood im- moveable, raised a mighty shout or yell, which rent the air, followed by a sound equally loud of rude martial music. Then, forming detached parties, they galloped up full speed to the strangers, never pausing till they almost touched the horses' heads, when they suddenly wheeled round and return- ed, exclaiming, "Blessing! blessing! sons of your country! sons of your country!" They had soon completely surround- ed the party, and wedged them in so close, waving their spears over their heads, that it was impossible for the strangers to move. Boo Khalloom had nearly lost all patience a* this vehement and incommodious welcome ; but at length B^rca Gana, the commander-in-chief, made his appearance, restored order, and caused a way to be opened, by which the caravan, though somewhat slowly, at length made its way to the city. But, after their arrival at Kouka, symptoms of jealousy ap- peared, and only twelve of the principal persons, the English included, were allowed to enter. They were led through a wide street fined with spearmen, to the door of the sheik's residence. Here the principal courtiers came out in succes- sion, and welcomed the party with cries of " Barca ! Barca !'* but as no one invited them to go in, the wrath of Boo Khal- loom, who held himself scarcely inferior to the sheik, was kindled, and he declared that, unless immediately admitted, he would return to his tent. A chief merely waved his hand as a signal for patience; but at last Barca Gana appeared, and .■•■* 424 DCNUAM AND CLAPPERTON. invited the Arab leader to enter alone. Another half-hour elapsed ere the gates were again opened, and the four English- men were called. They found, on the present, as well as on other occasions, the etiquette of this barbarian court extremely rigid, and enforced too in a manner the most rough and un- ceremonious. They were allowed to walk only one by one, and, when thought to be going too fast, the guards grasped them by the leg so abruptly that they could with difficulty avoid falling flat forward ; and when it was time to stop, instead of their being told so, spears were crossed before them, and the palm of the hand applied to their breast. At the close of all this ceremony, they found the sheik quietly seated on a car- pet, plainly dressed, in a small dark room, ornamented solely with guns and pistols, which he had received in presents from crowned heads, and esteemed the most rare and precious of decorations. He appeared about forty, or forty-five years of age, and his countenance was pleasing and expressive. He inquired their object in visiting Bornou ; when, being informed that they had come merely to see the country, and to give an account of \d appearance, produce, and people, he engaged to forward :neir views, and even to gratify their wishes to the utmost of his power. Such motives, however, afterward proved entirely incomprehensible to his illiterate mind. Major Denham next day waited again on the sheik and delivered his presents. A double-barrelled gun and two pis- tols, with powder-flask, and shot-cases, were examined by the chief with the most minute attention ; the other gifts, consist- ing of fine cloths, spices, and porcelain, were no sooner pro- duced than the slaves carried them ofl*. The African was par- ticularly gratified on being told that the king of England had heard of him, and said, turning to his captains, " This must be in consequence of our having defeated the Begharmis;" upon which Bagah Furby, a grim old s Idier, who had made a figure in that war, came forward and asked, " Did he ever hear of me ?" Major Denham scrupled not to answer, " Cer- tainly ;" when the whole party instantly called out, " Oh ! the king of England must be a great man." The Major, in the course of his residenc j at Kouka, had frequent opportunities of visiting the sheik, One day he re- ceived a message that he must come instantly and exhibit a musical box playing tunes by itself, which the other understood to be in his possession. This great warrior, who had never before shown any interest unless about grave concerns, was quite enchanted on hearing its performance, and raised shouts of delight and astonishment. He examined minutely the difTerept parts of the mechanism, declaring he would willingly a. i. ±<4f- 3t'** DENUAM AND CLAPPERTON. 425 give a thousand dollars in exchange for it. The Major, un- able to misunderstand so broad a hint, presented the box to his highness. The display of sky-rockets also caused the ut- most amazement and joy, and was even employed to strike the enemies of the sheik with superstitious awe. Finding that our traveller could speak Arabic, and give much informa- tion not attainable from any other quarter, Barca Gana be- came fond of his conversation, and invited him to pay frequent visits. It remained that Major Denham should be introduced to the sultan in his royal residence at Birnie, where all the state and pomp of the kingdom, with none of its real power, were con- centrated. On the 2d of March, the Enghsh accompanied Boo Khalloom to that city, and, on their arrival there, the fol- lowing morning was fixed for the interview. Fashion, even in the most refined European courts, docs not always follow the absolute guidance of reason or taste, and her magic power is often displayed in converting deformities into beauties ; but there is certainly no court of which the taste is so absurd, grotesque, or monstrous, as that to which Major Denham was now introduced. An enormous protruding belly and a huge misshapen head, are the two features without which it is vain to aspire to the rank of a courtier or of a fine gentleman. This form, valued probably as a type of abundance and luxury, is esteemed so essential, that, where nature has not bestowed, and the most excessive feeding and cramming cannot produce it, wadding is employed, and a false belly produced, which, in riding, appears to hang over the pummel of the saddle. Tur- bans also are wrapped round the head, in fold after fold, till it appears swelled on one side to the most unnatural dimen- sions, and only one-half of the face remains visible. The fac- titious bulk of the lords of Bornou is still farther augmented by drawing round them, even in this burning climate, ten or twelve successive robes of cotton or silk, while the whole is covered over with numberless charms enclosed in green leather cases. Yet under all these encumbrances they do sometimes mount and take the field ; but the idea of such unwieldy hogs- heads being of any avail in the day of battle appeared alto- gether ridiculous, — and it proved accordingly, that, on such high occasions, they merely exhibited themselves as orna- ments, without making even a show of encountering the enemy. With about three hundred of this puissant chivalry before and around him, the sultan was himself seated near the garden- door in a sort of cane basket covered with silk, and his face entirely shaded beneath a turban of more than the usual mag- 436 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. nitude. The presents were silently deposited ; nothing passed ; and the courtiers, tottt ring beneath the weight of their tarbans and their bellies, could not display that punctilious activity which had been so annoying at the palace of the sheik. This was all that was ever seen of the sultan of Bomou. The par- ty then set out for Kouka, passing, on their way, through An- gornou, the largest city in the kingdom, containing at least 30,000 inhabitants. Bornou, taken altogether, forms an extensive plain, stretch- ing two hundred miles along the western shore of the immense lake already mentioned, and nearly the same distance inland. This sea periodically changes its bed in an extraordinary manner. During the rains, when its tributary rivers pour in thrice the usual quantity of water, it inundates an extensive tract of country, from which it retires in the dry season. This space, then overgrown with dense underwood, and with grass double the height of a man, contains a motly assemblage of wild beasts, — lions, panthers, hyenas, elephants, and serpents of extraordiaary form and bulk. These monsters, while un- disturbed in this mighty den, remain tranquil, or war only with each other ; but when the lake swells, and its waters rush in, they of necessity seek refuge among the abodes *" men, to whom they prove the most dreadful scourge, only the cattle, but the slaves tending the grain, often fall tims ; they even rush in large bodies into the towns. Th j rest of the country, placed beyond the reach of this annua] in- undation, is in many places very fertile ; and culvivation is so limited that land may always be had in any quantity by him who has slaves to employ upon it. This service is performed by female captives from Musgovv, who, aiding their native ugli- ness by the insertion of a large piece of silver into the upper- lip, which throws it entirely out of shape, are coveted in no other view than for the quantity of hard work which they can execute. The processes of agriculture are extremely simple. Their only fine manufacture is that oftobes, or vestments of cotton skilfully woven and beautifully died, but still not equal to those of Soudan. In every other handicraft they are very inexpert, — even in works of iron, which are of the greatest use to a martial people. The Bornouese have, however, an ingenious mode of fish- ing with a very simple apparatus. They take two lar ^e gourds, and fasten them at each end to a stem of bamboo. The fish- erman seats himself upon this machine, floats with the current, and throws his net. On drawing it up, he lays it before him, stuns the fish with a species of mace, and piles them into the DENHAM AND CLAPP£RTO\. 427 ^urds. They are afterwards dried, and conveyed over tlie country to a considerable distance. The Bornouese are complete negroes both in form and feature ; they are ugly, simple, and good-natured, but desti- tute of all intellectual culture. Only a few of the great ^^At5, ur doctors, of whom the sheik was one, can read the Koran. A " great writer," indeed, is held in still higher estimation ihan with us ; but his compositions consist only of words written on scraps of paper, to be enclosed in cases, and worn as amulets. They are then supposed to defend their possessor against every danger, to act as charms to destroy his enemies, and to be the main instrument in the cure of all diseases. For this last purpose they are aided only by a few simple applica- tions; yet the Bornou practice is said to be very successful, either through the power of imagination, or owing to their excellent constitutions. In the absence of all refined plea- sures, various rude sports are pursued with eagerness, and almost with fury. The most favourite is wrestling, which the chiefs do not practise in person, but train their islaves to ex- hibit in it as our jockeys do game-cocks, taking the same pride in their prowess and victory. Nations are often pitched against each other, the Musgowy and the Beghai mi being the most powerful. Many of them are extremely handsome and of gigantic size, and hence the contests between them are truly terrible. Their masters loudly cheer them on, offering high premiums for victory, and sometimes threatening instant death in case of defeat. They place their trust, not in science, but in main strength and rapid movements. Occasionally the wrestler, eluding his adversary's vigilance, seizes him by the thigh, lifts him up into the air, and dashes him against the ground. When the match is decided, the victor is greeted with loud plaudits by the spectators, some of whom even testify their admiration by throwing to him presents of fine cloth* He then kneels before his master, who not unfrcquently be- stowed upon him a robe worth thirty or forty dollars, taken perhaps from his own person. Death or .naiming, however, is no unfrequent result of these encounters. The ladies, even of rank, engage in another very odd species of contest. Plac- ing themselves back to back, they cause particular parts to strike together with the most violent collision, when she who maintains her equilibrium, while the other lies stretched on the ground, is proclaimed victor with loud cheers. In this conflict the girdle of beads worn by the more opulent females very frequently burst, when these ornaments are seen flying about in every direction. To these elegant recreations is added gaming, always the rage of uncultivated minds. Their fa- 428 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. vourite game is one rudely played with beans, by means of holes made in the sand. Boo Khalloom, having despatched his affairs in Bornou wished to turn his journey to some farther account, and pro- posed an expedition into the more wealthy and commercial region of Houssa or Soudan ; but the eager wishes of his fol- lowers pointed to a different object. They called upon him to lead them into the mountains of Mandara in the south, to at- tack a village of the kerdies, or unbelievers, and carry otF the people as slaves to Fezzan. He long stood out against this nefarious proposal; but thr sheik, who also had his own vicMs, took part against him ; even his own brother joined the mal- contents, and at length there appeared no other mode in which he could return with equal credit and profit. Influenced by these inducements, he suffered his better judgment to be over- powered, and determined to conduct his troop upon tliis y)eril- ous and guilty excursion. Major Denham, allowing his zeal for discovery to overcome other considerations, contrived, not- withstanding the prohibition of the sheik, to be one of the par- ty. They were accompanied by Barca Gana, the principal general, a negro of huge strength and great courage, along with other warriors, and a large body of Bornou cavalry. These last arc a fine military body in point of external appear- ance. Their persons are covered with iron plate and mail, and they manage, with surprising dexterity, their little active steeds, which are also supplied with defensive armour. They have one fault only, but that a serious one, — they cannot stand the shock of an enemy. While the contest continues doubtful, they hover round as spectators, ready, should the tide turn against them, to spur on their coursers to a rapid flight ; but if they see their friends victorious, and the enemy turning their backs, they come forward and display no small vigour in pur- suit and plunder. The road that led to Mandara formed a continued ascent through a fertile country which contained some populous towns. The path being quite overgrown with thick and prick- ly underwood, twelve pioneers went forward with long poles, opening a track, pushing back »he brar ches, and giving warn- ing to beware of holes. These operations (hey accompanied with loud praises of Barca Gana, calfmg out, — " Who is in baUle like the rolling of thunder 1 Barca Gana. In battle, who spreads terror around him like the buffalo in his rage? Barca Gana." Even the chiefs on this expedition carried no pro necklaces made of the teeth of their enemies. They threw tlnmselvtn at the feet of the sultan, casting sand on their heade. md uttering the most piteous cries. The monarch, apparently moved by these gifts and entreaties, began to intimate to Boo Khalloom his hopes that these savages might by gentle means he reclaimed and led to embrace the true faith. These hopes were held by the latter in the utmost derision ; and he private- ly assured Major Denham that nothing would more annoy this devout Mussulman than to see them fulfilled, whereby he must have forfeited all right to drive these unhappy creatures in crowds to the markets of Soudan and Bornou. In fact, both the sultan and the sheik had a much deeper aim. Every eftbrt was used to induce Boo Khalloom to engage in the attack of some strong Fellata post, by which the country was hemmed in ; and as the two monarchs viewed the Arabs with ejitreme jealousy, it was strongly suspected that their defeat would not liave been regarded as a public calamity. The royal councils 432 DENHAM AWD CLAPPERTON. were secret and profound, and it was not known what influ. ences worked upon Boo Kiialloom. On this occasion unfor- tunately he was mastered by his evil jrcnius, and consented to the proposed attack; but as he came out and ordered his troops to prepare for marching, his countenance bore such marks of trouble that the Major asked if all went well ? to which he hurriedly answered, " Please God." The Anil).-, however, who at all events expected plunder, proceeded with alacrity. The expedition set out next morning, and, after passing through a beautiful plain, began to penetrate the mighty chain of mountains which form the southern border of the kingdom. Alpine heights, rising around them in rugged magnificence and gigantic grandeur, presented a scenery which our travel- ler had never seen surpassed. The passes of Hairey and of Horza, amid a superb amphitheatre of hills, closely shut in by overhanging cliffs, more than two thousand feet high, were truly striking. Here, for the first time in Africa, did nature appear to the English to revel in the production of vegetable life. The trees were covered with luxuriant and bright green foliage; and their trunks were hidden by a crowd of parasitical plants, whose aromatic blossoms perfumed the air. There was also an abundance of animal life of a less agreeable de- scription : three scorpions were killed in the tent ; and a fierce but beautiful panther, more than eight feet long, just as he had gorged himself by sucking the blood of a newly-killed negro, was attacked and speared. The sultan and Barca Gana were attended by a considerable body of Bornou and Man- dar cavalry, whose brilliant armour, martial aspect, and skilful horsemanship gave confidence to the European officer, who had not yet seen them put to the proof. It was the third day when the expedition came in view of the Fellata town of DirkuUa. The Arabs, supported by Barca Gana and about a hundred spearmen, marched instantly to the attack, and carried first that place, and then a smaller town beyond it, killing all wli > had not time to escape. The enemy, however, then ontrem lied themselves in a third and stronger position, called Musfciji, enclosed by high hills, and fortified in front by numerous swamps and palisades. This was likewise attacked, and all its defences forced. The guns of the Arabs spread terror, while Baroa Gana threw eight spears with his own hand, every one of which took effect. It was thought, that had the two bodies of cavalry made even a show of advancing, the victory would have been at once de- cided ; but Major Denham was much surprised to see those puissant wiitrriors keeping carefully under cover behind a hill on the opposite sicte of the stream, where not an arrow could vjn DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 433 reach them. The Fellatas, seeing that their antagonists were only a handful, rallied on the tops of the hills, were joined by new troops, and turned round. Their women behind, cheer- ing them on, continually supplied fresh arrows, and rolled down fragments of rock on the assailants. These arrows \yere fatal; they were tipped with poison, and wherever they pierced, the body in a few hours became black, blood gushed from every orifice, and the victim expired in agony. The condition of the Arabs soon became alarming ; scarcely a man was left unhurt, and their horses were dying under them. Boo Khalloom and his charger were both wounded with poi- soned arrows. As soon as the Fellatas saw the Arabs waver, they dashed in with their horse ; at sight of which all the he- roic squadrons of Bornou and Mandara put spurs to their steeds, the sultan at their head, and the whole became one mass of confused and tumultuous flight. Major Denham saw too late the peril into which he had wantonly plunged. His horse, pierced to the shoulder-bone, could scarcely support his weight; but the cries of the pursuing Fellatas still urged him forward. At last the animal fell twice, and the second time threw him against a tree, then, frightened by the noise behind, started up and ran off. The Fellatas were instantly up, when four of his companions were stabbed beside him, uttering the most frightful cries. He himself was fully prepared for the same fate ; but happily his clothes formed a valuable booty, through which the savages were loth to run their spears. After inflicting some slight wounds, therefore, they stripped him to the skin, and forthwith began to quarrel about the plunder. While they were thus busied, he contrived to slip away, and though hotly pursued, and nearly overtaken, succeeded in reaching a mountain-stream gliding at the bottom of Ji deep and precipitous ravine. Here lie had snatched the young branches issuing from the stump of a large over-hanging tree, in order to let himself down into the water, when, beneath his hand, a large liffa, the most dangerous serpent in this.country, rose from its coil, as in the very act of darting upon him. Struck with horror. Major Denliam lost all recollection, and fell headlong into the water; but the shock revived him, and, with three stakes of his arm he reached the opposite bank, and feU Inmself for the moment in safety. Running forward, he Avas delighted to see his friends IJarca Gana and Boo Khal- loom ; but amid the cheers with which they were endeavour- ing to rally their troops, and the cries of those who were falhng under the Fellata spears, he could not for some time make him- self heard. Then Maramy, a negro appointed by the sheik to attend on him, rode up and took him on hit own horse. Boo 37* es A- S ^ 434 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. KhaHoom ordered a burnouse to be thrown over him, — very seaaonably, for the burning sun had begun to blister hra naked body. Suddenly, however, Maramy called out, "See, see! BooKhalloomisdead!** and that spirited chief, overpowered by the wound of a poisoned arrow, dropped from his horse, and spoke no more. The others now thought only of pressing their flight, and soon reached a stream, where they refreshed themselves by copious draughts, and a halt was made to col- lect the stragglers. Major Denham here fell into a swoon ; during which, as he afterwards learned, Maramy complained that the jaded horse could scarcely carry the stranger forward, when Barca Gana said, — " By the beard of the prophet ! be- lievers enough have breathed their last to-day ; why should we concern ourselves about a Christian's death ?" Malem Cha- dily, however, so bitter as a theological opponent, showed now the influence of a milder spirit, and said, — " No, God has pre- served him ; let us not abandon him;" and Maramy declared, " His heart told him what to do." They therefore moved on slowly till about midnight, when they passed the Mandara frontier in a state of severe suffering ; but the Major met with much kindness from a dethroned prince, Mai Meegamy, who, seeing his wounds festering under the rough woollen cloak which formed his only covering, took off his own trowsers and gave them to him. The Arabs had lost forty-five of their number, besides their chief; the rest were in a miserable plight, most of them wound- ed, some mortally, and all having lost their camels and the rest of their property. Renouncing their pride, they were obliged to suppHcate from Barca Gana a handful of corn to keep them from starving. The sultan of Mandara, in whose cause they had suffered, treated them with the utmost con- tumely, which perhaps they might deserve, but certainly not from him. Deep sorrow was afterward felt in Fezzan when they arrived in this deplorable condition and reported the fall of their chief, who was there almost idolized. A national song was composed on the occasion, which the following extract will show to be marked by gieat depth of feeling, and not al- together devoid of poetical beauty : — "Oh ! trast not to the gun and the sword ! The spej^ of tlie unbeliever prevails ! " Boo Klialloom, the good and the brave, has fallen I Who shall now be safe ? Even as the inoon among the little stars, so was Boo Khalloom among men ! Where shall Fezznn now look for her protector ? Men hang their beadsin sorrow, while women wring their hands, rending the air with their cms ! As a shepherd is to his flock, so was Boo Kballom to Fezzan ! *(-' f X DENHAM AND CLAPFERTON. 435 "Give liim Mngs ! Give him music ! What words can equal his praise 7 His heart was as iarse as the desert ! His coffers were like the rich over- flowings from the udder of the she-camel, comforting and nourishing those around him ! " Even as the flowers without rain perish in die fields, so will the Fezzan* ers droop ; for Boo Khalloom returns no more ! "His body lies in the land of the heathen ! The poisoned arrow of the unbeliever prevails ! "Oh ! trust not to the gun and the sword ! The spear of the heatlieu conquers ! Boo Khalloom, the good and the brave, has fallen ! Who shall now be safe ?" The sheik of Bornou was considerably mortified by the re- sult of this expedition, and the miserable figure made by his troops, though he sought to throw the chief blame on the Man- dara part of the armament. He now invited the Major ' ac- company an expedition against the M ungas, a rebel triu . on his outer border, on which occasion he was to employ his na- tive band of Kanemboo spearmen, who, he trusted, would re- deem the military reputation of the monarchy. Major Denhara was always ready to go wherever he had a chance of seeing the manners and scenery of Africa. The sheik took the field, attended by his armour-bear( r, his drummer fantastically dress- ed in a straw hat with ostrich feathers, and followed by three wives, whose heads and persons were wrapped up in brown silk robes, and each led by a eunuch. He was preceded by five green and red "s, on each of which were extracts from the Koran, written in letters of gold. Etiquette even required that the sultan should follow with his unwicldly pomp, having ahaiem,and attendance much more nurac.ous ; while frum- fruras, or wooden trumpets, were continually sounded before him. This monarch is too dignified to fight in person ; but his guards, the swollen and overloaded figures formerly de- scribed, enveloped in multiplied folds, and groaning beneath the weight of ponderous amulets, produced themselves as war- riors, though manifestly unfit to face any real danger. The route lay along the banks of the river Yeou, called also Gambarou, through S country naturally fertile and dehghtful, but presenting a dismal picture of the desolation occasioned by African warfar^^The expedition passed through upwards of thirty towns,^flPletely destroyed by the Fellatas in their last inroad, and oHphich all the inhabitants were either killed or carried into sl^ery. These fine plains were now overgrown with forests and thickets, in which grew tamarind and other trees, producing delicatefruits ; while large bands of monkeys, called by the Arabs "enchanted men," filled the woods with their cries. Here, too, was found Old Birnie, the luicient but now desolate capital, evidently much lafgei.than miy of the j* - • ft! ■i' i'» i" 436 DENHAM AND CLAPPEBTON. present cities, covering five or six miles with its ruins. They passed also Gambarou, formerly the favourite residence of the sultans, where the remains of a palace and of two mosques gave an idea of civilization superior to any thing that had yet been seen in Interior Africa. There were left in this country only small detached villages, the inhabitants of which remain- ed fixed to them by local attachment, in spite of constant pre- datory inroads by the Tuaricks, who carried off their friends, their children, and cattle. They have recourse to one mode of defence, which consists in digging a number of blaquas, or large pits : these they cover with a false surface of sods and grass, into which the Tuarick, with his horse, plunges before he is aware, and is received at the bottom upon sharp-pointed stakes, which often kill the one and the other on the spot. Unluckily, harmless travellers are equally liable to fall into these living graves. Major Denham was petrified with horror to find how near he had approached to several of them ; in- deed, one of his servants fell in, and was saved only by an almost miraculous spring. It seems wonderful that the sheik should not have endeavoured to restore some kind of security to this portion of his subjects, and to repeople those fine but deserted regions. The troops, which had been seen hastening in parties to the scene of action, were mustered at Kabshary, a town which the Mimgas had nearly destroyed. The sheik made a review of his favourite forces, the Kanemboo spearmen, nine thou- sand strong. They were really a very savage and military- looking host, perfectly naked, except a -'rdle of goatskin, with the hair hanging down, and a piece oi cloth wrapped round the head. They carried large wooden shields, shaped hke a Gothic window, with which they warded off the arrows of the enemy, while they pressed forward to attack with their spears. Unhke almost all other barbarous armies, they kept a regular right-watch, passing the ciy every half hour along the line, and at any alarm raising a united yell, which was truly frightful. At the review they passed in tribes before the sheik, to whom they showed the most enthusiastic attachment, kneeling on the ground and kissing his feet. The M ungas, again, were described as terrible antagoni|M|| hardened by conflict with the Tuaricks, fighting on foo^^ith poisoned arrows longer and more deadly than those of the Fellatas. The sultan, however, contemplated other means of securing success, placing his main reli mce on his powers as a Moham- medan doctor and writer. Three successive nights were spent in inscribing upon little scraps of paper figures or words, des- tined to €xercise a magical influence upon the rebel host ; and . * '^ DENHAM AND CLAPPESTON. 437 3 a review BODY GUARD OF THE SHZIK OF I50RN0U. their eft'ect was heightened by the display of sky-rockets, sup- plied by Major Denham. Tidings of his being thus employed were conveyed to the camp, when the Mungas, stout and fierce warriors who never shrunk from an enemy, yielded to the power of superstition, and felt all their strength withered. It seemed to them that their arrows were blunted, their quivers broken, their hearts struck with sickness and fear ; in short, that to oppose a sheik of the Koran who could accomplish such wonders was alike vain and impious. They came in by hundreds, bowing themselves to the ground, and casting sand on their heads in token of the most abject submission. At length, Malem Fanamy himself, the leader of the rebellion, saw that resistance was hopeless. After vain overtures of conditional submission, he appeared in person, mounted on a jk » A?. .i*-'^ 438 DENHAM AND CLAPPKRTON. white horse, with a thousand followers. He was himself in rags, and, having fallen prostrate on the ground, was about to pour sand on his head, when the sultan, instead of permitting this humiliation, caused eight robes of fine cotton cloth, one after another, to be thrown over him, and his head to be wrap- ped in Egyptian turbans till it was swelled to six times its natu- ral size, and no longer resembled any thing human. By such signal honours the sheik gained the hearts of those whom his pen had subdued; and this wise policy enabled him, not only to overcome the resistance of this formidable tribe, but to con- vert them into supporters and bulwarks of his power. Major Denham, who always sought with laudable zeal to penetrate into every corner of Africa, now found his way in another direction. He had heard much of the Shary^ a great river flowing into the lake Tchad, and on whose banks the kingdom of Loggun was situated. After several delays, he set out on the 23d of January, 1824, in company with Mr. Toole, a spirited young volunteer, who, journeying by way of Tripoli and Mourzouk, had thence crossed the Desert to join him. The travellers passed through Angornou and Angala, and arrived at Showy, where they saw the river, which really proved to be a magnificent stream, fully half a mile broad, and flowing at the rate of two or three miles an hour. They de- scended it through a succession of noble reaches, bordered with fine woods, and a profusion of variously-tinted and aro- matic plants. At length it opened into the wide expanse of the Tchad ; after viewing which, they again ascended and reached the capital of Loggun, beneath whose high walls the river was seen flowing in majestic beauty. Major Denham entered, and found a handsome city, with a street as wide as Pall-Mall, and bordered by large dwellings, having spacious areas in front. He was led through several dark rooms into a wide and crowdeu court, at one end of which a lattice open- ed, and showed a pile of silk robes stretched on a carpet, amid which two eyes became gradually visible : this was the sultan. On his appearance there arose a tumult of horns and frum- frums ; while all the attendants threw themselves prostrate, casting sand on their heads. In a voice which the court- fiishion of Loggun required to be scarcely audible, the monarch inquired Major Denham's object in coming to this country, observing that if it was to purchase handsome female slaves, he need go no farther, since he himself had hundreds who could be afforded at a very easy rate. This overture was re- jected on other grounds than the price ; yet, notwithstanding so decided a proof of barbarism, the Loggunese were found a people more advanced in the arts of peace than any hitherto > V X DENRAM AND CLAPPERTON. 439 seen in Africa. By a studied neutrality, they had avoided in- volving themselves in the dreadful wars which had desolated the neighbouring countries. Manufacturing industry was honoured, and the cloths woven here were superior to those of Bornou, being finely died with indigo and beautifully glazed. There was even a current coin made of iron, somewhat in the form of a horse-shoe ; and rude as this was, none of their neighbours possessed any thing similar. The ladies were handsome, intelligent, and of a lively air and carriage ; but, besides pushing their frankness to excess, their general de- meanour was by no means scrupulous. They used, in partic- ular, the utmost diligence in stealing from Major Denham^s person every thing that could be reached, even searching the pockets of his trousers ; and, when detected, only laughing, and calling to each other how sharp he had shown himself. But the darkest feature of savage life was disclosed, when the sultan and his son each sent to solicit poison *' that would not lie," to be used against the other. The latter even accom- panied the request with a bribe of three lovely black damsels, and laughed at the horror which was expressed at the proposal. The Loggunese live in a rich country, abounding in grain and cattle, and diversified with forests of lofty acacias and many beautiful shrubs. Its chief scourge consists in the mil- lions of tormenting insects which fill the atmosphere, making it scarcely possible to go into the open air at midday without being thrown into a fever ; indeed, children have been known to be killed by their stings. The natives have a mode of build- ing one house within another to protect themselves against this scourge ; while some kindle a large fire of wet straw and sit in the smoke : but this remedy, if it be possible, seems worse than the evil which it is meant to obviate. Major Denham was much distressed on this journey by the death of his companion Mr. Toole ; and he could no longer delay his return when he learned that the Begharmis, with a large army, were crossing the Shary to attack Bornou. Soon after his arrival at Kouka the sheik led out his troops, which he mustered on the plain of Angala, and was there furiously attacked by five thousand Begharmis, led by two hundred chiefs. The Begharmi cavalry are individually strong and fierce, and both riders and horses still more thoroughly cased in mail than those of Bornou; but their courage, when brought to the proof, is nearly on a level. The sheik encountered them with his Kanemboo spearmen and a small band of musketeers, when, after a short conflict, the whole of this mighty host was thrown into the most disorderly flight ; even the Bornou cavalry joined in the pursuit. Seven sons of the •■)* m fc 440 DEMIAM AND CLAPPERTON. sultan and almost all the chiefs fell ; two hundred of their favourite wives were taken, many of whom were of exquisite beauty. Mr. Tyrwhit, a gentleman whom his majesty's government had sent out to strengthen the party, arrived on the 20th of May, and on the 22d, delivered to the sheik a number of presents, which were received with the highest satisfaction. In company with this gentleman, Major Denham, eager to ex- plore Africa still further, took advantage of another expedition undertaken against the tribe of Shouaa Arabs, distinguished b} the name of La Sala, — a race of amphibious shepherds who inhabit certain islands that extend along the south-eastern shores of the Tchad. These spots afford rich pasture ; while the water is so shallow, that, by knowing the channels, the natives can ride without difficulty from one island to the other. Barca Gana led a thousand men on this expedition, and was joined by four hundred of a Shouaa tribe, called Dugganahs, enemies to the La Sulas. These allies presented human na- ture under a more pleasing aspect than it had yet been seen in any part of Central Africa. They despise the negro nations, and all who live in houses, and still more in cities ; while they themselves reside in tents made of skin, collected into circular camps, which they move periodically from place to place. They live in simple plenty on the produce of their flocks and herds, celebrate their joys and sorrows in extemporary poetry, and seem to be united by th»3 strongest ties of domestic aftec- tion. Tahr, their chief, havmg closely examined our traveller as to the motives of his journey, said, " And have you been three years from your home? Are not your eyes dimmed with straining to the north, where all your thoughts must ever be ? If my eyes do not see the wife and children of my heart for ten days, they are flowing with tears when they should be closed •in sleep." On taking leave, Tahr's parting wish was, "May you die at your own tents, and in the arms of your wife and family." This chief, it is said, might have sat for the picture of a patriarch : his fine, serious, expressive countenance, large features, and long bushy beard afforded a favourable specimen of the general aspect of his tribe. The united forces now marched to the shores of the lake, and began to reconnoitre the islands on which the Sbouaas with their cattle and cavalry were stationed ; but ^ the experi- enced eye of Barca Gana soon discerned that the channel, though shallow, was full of holes, and had a muddy, deceitful appearance. He proposed, therefore, to delay the attack till a •resolutelwiidof Kanemboo spearmen should arrive and lead the VQij. The lolling, however, of the numerous herds, and the ••1^ .*** DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 441 en seen in bleating of the flocks on the ^reen islands which lay before them, excited in the troops a degree of hunger as well as of military ardour that was quite irrepressible. They called out, "What ! be so near them and not eat them ? No, no, let us on ; this right these flocks and women shall be ours !" Barca Gana suffered himself to be hurried away, and plunged in among the foremost. Soon, however, the troops began to sink into the holes or stick in the mud ; their guns and powder were wetted, and became useless ; while ihe enemy, who knew every step, and could ride through the water as quickly as on land, at once charged the invaders in front, and sent round a detachment to take them in the rear. The assault was ac- cordingly soon changed into a disgraceful flight, in which those who had been the most loud in urging to this rash onset set the example. Barca Gana, who had boasted himself in- vulnerable, was deeply wounded through his coat-of-mail and four cotton tobes, and was with difficulty rescued by his chiefs out of the hands of five La Sala horsemen who had vowed his death. The army returned to their quarters in disappointment and dismay, and with a severe loss. During the whole night the Dugganah women were heard bewailing their husbands who had fallen, in dirges composed for the occasion, and with plaintive notes, which could not be listened to without the deep- est sympathy. Major Denham was deterred by this disaster 'Vom making any farther attempt to penetratei to the eastern shores of the Tchad. The Biddoomahs are another tribe who inhabit extensive nnd rugged islands in the interior of the lake, amid its deep waters, which they navigate with nearly a thousand large boats. They neither cultivate the ground nor rear flocks or herds, while their manners appeared to our traveller the rudest and most savage even of Africans, those of the Musgow always excepted. They are said to have adopted as a religious creed, that God, having withheld from them corn and cattle, which the nations around enjoy, has given in their stead strength and courage, to be employed in taking these good things from all in whose possessi-^o they may be found. To this belief they act up in the ni jst devout manner, spreading terror and desolation over all the shores of this inland sea ; no part of which, even in the immediate vicinity of the great capitals, is for a moment secure from their ravages. The most powerful and warlike of the Bornou sovereigns, finding among their subjects neither the requisite skill nor experience in naviga- tion, do not attempt to cope with the Biddoomahs on their watery domains ; and thus gave up the lake to Ibeir undispu- ted sway. ,«• r«^ v: ■■ ■ ■■■-■■' 4r- 442 DENHAM AND CLA?PEBTON. While Major Denham was thus traversing, in every direc- tion, Bornou and the surrounding countries, Mr. Clapperton and Dr. Oudney were proceeding through Houssa, by a route less varied and hazardous indeed, but disclosing forms both of nature and of society fully as interesting. They departed from Kouka on the 14th of December, 1823, and, after passing the site of Old Birnie, they found the banks of the Yeou fer- tile, and diversified with towns and villages. On entering Katagum, the most easterly Fellata province, they observed a superior style of culture ; two crops of wheat being raised in one season by irrigation, and the grain stored in covered sheds elevated from the ground on posts. The country to the south was covered with extensive swamps and mountains, tenanted by rude and Pagan races, who furnish to the faithful on inex- haustable supply of slaves. The practice of travelling with a caravan was found very advantageous, from the mutual help afforded, as well as from the good reports spread by the mer- chants respecting their European companions. In Bornou these last had been viewed with almost unmingled horror; and, for having eaten their bread under the extremest necessity, a man had his testimony rejected in a court of justice. Some young Bornouese ladies, who accosted Major Denham, having ventured to say a word in his favour, an attendant matron ex- claimed, — " Be silent; he is an uncircumcised Caffre, — neither washes nor prays, eats pork, and will go to hell ;" upon which the others screamed out and ran off. But in Houssa this hor- ror was not so extreme, and was mingled with the belief that they possessed surprising and supernatural powers. Not only did the sick come in crowds expecting the cure of every dis- ease, but the ladies solicited amulets to restore their beauty, to preserve the affections of their lovers, and even to destroy a hated rival. The son of the governor of Kano, having called upon Mr. Clapperton, stated it as the conviction of the whole city and his own, that the EngUsh had the power of converting men into asses, goats, and monkeys, and likewise that by reading in his book he could at any time commute a handful of earth into gold. The traveller, having argued with him upon the difficulty he often found in procuring both asses and gold, induced him, with trembling hands, to taste a cup of tea; when he became more composed, and made a eoit of recantation of his errors. As the caravan proceeded they met many other travellers, and found sitting along the road numerous females, selling potatoes, beans, bits of roasted meat, and water with an infu- sion of gussub grains ; and when they stopped at any place for the night, the people crowded in such numbers as to form '^ DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. 443 a little fair. Mr. Clapperton attracted the notice of many of the Fellata ladies, who, after examining him closely, declared, that had he only been less white, his external appearance might have merited approbation. The travellers passed through Sansan, a great market-place divided into three distinct towns, and Katagum, the strongly- fortified capital of the province, containing about eight thou- sand inhabitants. Thence they proceeded to Murmur, where the severe illness under which Dr. Oudney had long laboured came to a crisis. Though now in the last stage of consump- tion, he insisted on continuing his journey, and with the aid of his servant had been supported to his camel, when Mr. Clapperton, seeing the ghastliness of death on his counten- ance, insisted on replacing him in his tent ; where soon after, without a groan, he breathed his last. His companion caused hiin to be buried with the honours of the country. The body was washed, wrapped in turban-shawls, and a wall of clay built round the grave to protect it from wild beasts ; two sheep also were killed and distributed among the poor. Proceeding onwards, the traveller came to Katungwa, the first town of Houssa Proper, in a country well enclosed and under high cultivation. To the south was an extensive range of rocky hills, amid which was the town of Zangeia, with its buildings picturesquely scattered over masses of rock. He passed also Girkwa, near a river of the same name, which ap- pears to come from these hills, and to fall into the Yeou. Two days after, he entered Kano, which is now, as it was six hundred years ago, the chief commercial city of Houssa and of all Central Africa. Yet it disappointed our traveller on ills first entry, and for a quarter of a mile scarcely appeared a city at all. Even in its more crowded quarters the houses rose generally in clusters, only separated by large stagnant pools. The inhabited part, on the whole, did not appear to comprise more than a fourth of the space enclosed by the wails, while the rest consisted of fields, gardens, and swamps; however, as the whole circuit is fifteen miles, there is space for a population moderately estimated to be between thirty and forty thousand. Its market, the greatest scene of commercial transactions in Africa, is held on a neck of land between two swamps, by which, during the rains, it is entirely overflowed ; l>ut in the dry season it is covered with sheds, or stalls of bam- 'i«)o, arranged into regular streets. Different quarters are allotted for the several kinds of goods ; some for cattle, others for vegetables ; while fruits of various descriptions, so much neglected in Bornou, are here displayed in profiwiou. The fine cotton fabrics of the country are sold eitbMBr in webs, or in ■f- 444 DENHAM AND CLAPPEITTON. what are called tobes '*nd turkadees, with rich silken stripes or borders ready to be added. Among the favourite articles are goora or kolla nuts, which are called African coffee, being supposed to give a peculiar relish to the water drunk after them ; and crude antimony, with whose black tint every eye- brow in Honssa must be dyed. The Arabs also dispose here of sundry commodities that have become obsolete in the north ; , the cast-off dresses of the Mamelukes and other great men, and old sword-blades from Malta. But the busiest scene is the slave-market, composed of two long ranges of sheds, one for males and another for females. These poor creatures are seated in rows, decked out for exhibition ; the buyer scrutini- zes them as nicely as a purchaser with us does a horse, in- specting the tongue, teeth, eyes, and limbs, making them cough and perform various movements, to ascertain if there be any thing unsound ; and in case of a blemish appearing, or even without assigning a reason, he may return them within three days. As soon as the slaves are sold, the exposer gets back their finery, to be employed in ornamenting others. Most of the captives purchased at Kano are conveyed across the Desert, during which their masters endeavour to keep up their spirits by an assurance that, on passing its boundary, they will be set free and dressed in red, which they account the gayest of colours. Supplies, however, often fail in this dreary journey, — a want felt first by the slaves, many of whom perish with hunger and fatigue. Mr. Clapperton heard the doleful tale of a mother who had seen her child dashed to the ground, while she herself was compelled by the lash to drag on an exhausted frame. Yet when at all tolerably treated, they are very gay, — an observation generally made in regard to slaves ; but this gayety, arising only from the absence of thought, probably conceals much secret wretchedness. Boxing in Houssa, like wrestling in Bornou, forms a favour- ite exercise, and the grand national spectacle. Mr. Clapper- ton, having heard much of the fancy of Kano, intimated his wilhngness to pay for a performance, which was forthwith arranged. The whole body of butchers attended, and acted as masters of the ceremonies ; while, as soon as the tidings spread, girls left their pitchers at the wells, the market people threw down their baskets, and an immense crowd was assem- bled. The ring being formed, and drums beat, the performers first came forward singly, plying their muscles Hke a musician » tuning his instrument, and each calling out to the bystanders, " I am a hyena ; I um a lion ; I can kill all that oppose me." After about twenty had shown off in this manner, they came forward in pairs, wearing only a leathern girdle, and with their DENHAM AKD CLAPPERTOX. 445 hands muffled up in numerous folds of country cloth. It was first ascertained that they were not mutual friends ; after which, they closed with the utmost fury, aiming their blows at the most mortal parts, as the pit of the stomach, beneath the ribs, or under the ear : they even endeavoured to scoop out the eyes ; so that, in spite of every precaution, the match often terminated in the death of one of the combatants. Whenever Mr. Clapperton saw the affair verging to such an issue, he gave orders to stop ; and, after seeing six pairs exhibit, paid the hire and broke up the meeting. From Kano he set out under the guidance of Mohammed Jollie, leader of an extensive caravan intended for Sackatoo, capital of the sultan of the Fellatas. The country was per- haps the finest in Africa, being under high cultivation, diversi- fied with groves of noble trees, and traversed in a picturesque manner by ridges of granite. The manners of the people, too, were pleasing and pastoral. At many clear springs gushing from the rocks young women were drawing water. As an ex- cuse for engaging in talk, our traveller asked several times for the means of quenching his thirst. " Bending gracefully on one knee, and displaying at the same time teeth of pearly whiteness, and eyes of the blackest lustre, they presented a gourd, and appeared highly delighted when I thanked them for their civility, remarking to one another, ' Did you hear the white man thank me V " But the scene was changed when the traveller reached the borders of the provinces of Goober and Zamfra, which were in a state of rebellion against Sacka- too. The utmost alarm at that moment prevailed ; men and women, with their bullocks, asses, and camels, all struggled to be foremost, every one crying out, " Wo to the wretch that falls behind ! he will be sure to meet an unhappy end at the hands of the Gooberites." There was danger even of being thrown down and trampled to death by the bullocks, which were furiously rushing backward and forward ; however, through the unremitting care of the escort, Clapperton made his way safely, though not without much fatigue and annoy- ance, along this perilous frontier. On the 16th of March, 1824, after passing through the hilly district of Kamoon, the valleys began to open, and crowds of people were seen thronging to market with wood, onions, indi- go, and other commodities. This indicated the approach to Sackatoo, which they soon saw from the top of a hill, and en- tered about noon. A multitude flocked to see the white stran- ger, and received him with cheers of welcome. The sultan was not yet returned from a ghrazzie or slave-hunt ; but the gadado, or minister, performed handsomely the honours of the 38» #'"■ 446 DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON. IM place. Next day the chief arrived, and instantly sent for Olapperton. The palace, as usual in Africa, consisted of a sort of enclosed town, with an open quadrangle in front. The stranger, on entering the gate, was conducted through three huts serving as guard-houses, after which he found Sultan Bello seated on a small carpet in a sort of painted and orna- mented cottage. Bello had a noble and commanding figure, with a high forehead and large black eyes. He gave the trav- eller a hearty welcome, and, after inquiring the particulars of his journey, proceeded to serious affairs. He produced bookg belonging to Major Denham, which had been taken in the disastrous battle of DirkuUah ; and, though he expressed a feeling of dissatisfaction at the Major's presence on that occa- sion, readily accepted an apology, and restored the volumes. He only asked to have the subject of each explained, and to hear the sound of the language, which he declared to be beau- tiful. He then began to press his visiter with theological ques- tions, and showed himself not wholly unacquainted with the controversies which have agitated the Christian world ; indeed he soon went beyond the depth of his visiter, who was obliged to own that he was not versant in the abstruser mysteries of divinity. The sultan now opened a frequent and familiar commi ni- cation with the English envoy, in which he showed himself possessed of a good deal of information. The astronomic^al instruments, from which, as from implements of magic, many of his attendants started with horror, were examined by the monarch with an intelligent eye. On being shown the plani- sphere, he proved his knowledge of the planets, and even of many of the constellations, by repeating their Arabic names. The telescope, whicl presented objects inverted — the compass, by which he could always turn to the cast in praying — and the sextant, which he called "the looking-glass of the sun," exci- ted peculiar interest. Being desirous to see an observation performed with the latter instrument, Glapperton, who had lost the key of the artificial horizon, asked a dagger to break it open ; upon which the sultan started, and half-drew his sword, trembUng like an aspen leaf. The other \ery prudently took no notice of this excitement, but quietly opened his box, when the exhibition soon dispelled all unfavourable impressions. The sultan, however, inquired with evident jealousy into some points of Enghsh history that had come to his knowledge; as, the conquest of India, which the traveller endeavoured to re- present as a mere arrangement to protect the natives, and par- ticularly the Moslem population. The attack on Algiers, be- ,r-f' HUGH CLAPPERTON. 447 ing also alluded to, was justly declared to have been made solely on account of her atrocious piracies. Sackatoo appeared to Mr. Clapperton the most populous city he had seen in the interior of Africa. The houses stand more closely together than in most other towns of Houssa, and are laid out in regularly well-built streets. It is surround- ed by a wall between twenty and thirty feet high, with twelve ^tes, which are punctually shut at sunset. The dwellings of the principal inhabitants consist of clusters of cottages and flat-roofed houses, in the Moorish style, enclosed by high walls. There are two mosques, one of which, then in progress of building, was eight hundred feet long, adorned with numerous pillars of wood plastered with clay, and highly ornamented. At Sackatoo, the traveller obtained an account of Mr. Park's death, very closely corresponding with the statement given by Amadi Fatonma. The Niger, it appears, called here the Quorra, after passing Timbuctoo, turns to the south, and con- tinues to flow in that direction till it crosses the parallel of Sackatoo, at only a few days' journey to the westward ; but whether it reaches the sea, or, making an immense circuit, becomes the Shary, and pours itself into the immense basin of the Tchad, are points on which his informants varied greatly. Returning by a different route, Mr. Clapperton visited Zir- .i?te, the capital of Zamfra, a kind of outlawed city, the inhab- itants of which are esteemed the greatest rogues in Houssa, and where all runaway slaves find protection. He passed also through Kashna or Cassina, the metropolis of a kingdom which, till the late rise of the Fellata power, had ruled over all Africa from Bornou to the Niger. Mr. Clapperton rejoined Major Denham at Kouka, whence they set out, and recrossed the Desert together in the latter part of the year 1824. They reached Tripoli in January, 1825, and soon after embarked for Leghorn ; but being de- tained by contrary winds and quarantine regulations, did not reach London till the month of June. CLAPPERTON'S SECOND JOURNEY. It has appeared, that in spite of some occasional symptoms of jealousy, and even of alarm, the sultan of the Feliatas had manifested a very considerable inclination to cultivate inter- course with the English. He was even understood to have promised that messengers should be kept in waiting at Rakah and Fundah, or at some port on the coast, to conduct a new 448 HUGH CLAPPERTON. mission to Sackatoo. These promises, it is extremely proba- ble, were mere inferences drawn from the empty boasts of the sultan ; he being master neither of Rakah nor Fundah, nor of any place within a great distance of the Gulf of Benin. Be this as it may, there seemed good ground to expect a welcome for the British envoys when they should reach his capital ; and in that direction, it was conjectured, were to be found the ter- mination of the Niger, and also the most direct channel of trade with regions already ascertained to be the finest in Africa. These were views to which the enterprising statesmen who conducted the naval government at home were never insensi- ble. They equipped afresh Mr. Clapperton, now promoted to the rank of captain, and sent him to the Gulf of Benin ; naming as his associates, Captain Pearce, an excellent draftsman, and Mr. Morrison, a naval surgeon of some experience, whose skill, it was hoped, might be of great avail in preserving the health of the whole expedition. The mission, in the end of 1825, reached its destination ; but, as might perhaps have been anticipated, they could hear nothing of Rakah or of Fundah, of any messengers sent by Bello, nor of any town that was subject to him on this coast. They were not, however, discouraged ; and having consulted Mr. Houtson, whom a long residence had made thoroughly acquainted with the country, they were advised not to attempt ascending the banks of the river, — a circuitous track, and cov- ered with pestilential swamps, — but to take the route from Ba- dagry as the most direct and commodious, and by which, in fact, almost all the caravans from Houssa come down to the coast. On the 7th of December, 1825, the mission set out from Badagry on this grand journey into Interior Africa. But at the very first they were guilty of a fatal imprudence. Duiring the nights of the 7th and 9th they slept in the open air, and on the last occasion in the public market-place of Dagmoo, with- out even their beds, which had been sent away by mistake. The consequence was, that in a day or two Morrison and Pearce were attacked with a dangerous fever, and Clapperton with fits of ague. It does not appear why they did not stop in one of the towns, and endeavour by rest to recruit their strength ; on the contrary, they pushed on till the 22d, when Captain Clapperton, seeing the illness of his companions in- crease, urged them either to remain behind or return to Bada- gry. They insisted on proceeding ; but next day Dr. Morri- son could struggle no longer, and departed for the coast : he died before reaching it. Captain Pearce persevered to the last, and sunk on the road, breathing his last at nine in tl^e HUGH CLAPPERTON. 449 evening of the 27th. Clapperton was thus left to pursue his long and adventurous journey in very painful and desolate circumstances. He had only a faithful servant, Richard Lander, who stood by him in all his fortunes, with Pascoe, a not very trusty African, whom he had hired at Badagry. After a journey of sixty miles, the travellers entered the kingdom of Yarriba, called also from its capital Eyeo. This country had long been reported on the coast as the most popu* lous, powerful, and flourishing of all Western Africa, holding even Dahomey in vassalage. It answered the most favoura- ble descriptions given of it; the fields were extensively cleared, and covered with thriving plantations of Indian corn, millet, yams, and cotton. A loom nearly similar to that used in England was busily plied ; the women were spinning and dyeing the cloths with their fine indigo. These African dames were also seen going from town to town bearing large burdens on their heads, — an employment shared by the numerous wives of the king of Eyeo ; their majesties having nothing to distinguish them from the humblest of their fellow-country- women. Amid these laudable occupations, they exercised their powers of speech with such incessant perseverance as to confirm the Captain in what appears to have been with him an old maxim, that no power on earth, not even African despot- ism, can silence a woman's tongue ; yet, as this loquacity seems to have been always exerted in kindness, he need not, we think, have groaned quite so heavily under its stunning in- fluence. The English travellers were agreeably surprised by the re- ception which they experienced during this journey. In Houssa they had laboured under the most dire proscription as Caffres, enemies of the prophet, and foredoomed to hell ; and, as black is there the standard of beauty, their colour was con- sidered by the ladies a deep leprous deformity, detracting from every quality that might otherwise have been agreeable in their persons. With the negro and pagan Eyeos there was no religious enmity ; and having understood, by reports from the coast, the superiority of Europeans in arts and wealth, this people viewed them almost as beings of a superior order, to see whom they felt an eager and friendly curiosity. A rumour had also spread that they came to do good, and to make peace wherever there was war. On entering any town they were soon encircled by thousands, all desirous to see white men, and testifying respect, — the males by taking off their caps, the women by bending on their kneea and one elbow. In some places singing and dancing were kept up through the whole night in celebration of their arrival. 450 HUGH CLAPPERTON. The mission had now to cross a range of hills about eighty miles broad, reported to reach the whole way from behind Ashantee to Benin. The highest pinnacle was not supposed to exceed two thousand five hundred feet, which is a good deal lower than Skiddaw ; but its passes were peculiarly narrow and rugged, hemmed in by gigantic blocks of granite six hun- dred or seven hundred feet high, sometimes fearfully overhang- ing the road. The]valley varied in breadth from one hundred yards to half a mile ; but every level spot, extending along the foot of these mountains, or even suspended amid their cliffs, was covered with fine crops of yams, millet, and cotton. A large population thus filled these alpine recesses, all animated with the most friendly spirit. Parties met the travellers on the road, or were stationed on the rocks and heights above, which echoed with choral songs and sounds of welcome. After as- cending hill over hill they came toChaki,a large and populous town, situated on the very summit of the ridge. Here the caboceer had a house and a large stock of provisions ready for them ; he put many questions, and earnestly pleaded for a stay of two or three days. After descending to the plain and passing through a number of other towns, the party came to Tshow, where a caboceer ar- rived from the king of Yarriba, with a numerous train of attend- ants both on foot and horseback. This chief, having shaken hands with them, immediately rubbed his whole body, that the blessing of their touch might be spread all over him. His peo- ple kept up through the night a constant hubbub, — singing, drumming, dancing, and firing ; and, claiming free quarters, they devoured such a quantity of provisions that the party fared worse than in any other place. Next morning they set out with a crowded escort of bowmen on foot, and of horse- men ill-mounted but active, dressed in the most grotesque manner, and covered with charms. On reaching the brow of a hill, the great capital of Eyeo opened to the view, on the opposite side of a vast plain bordered by a ridge of granite hills and surrounded by a brilliant belt of verdure. On reach- ing the gate they entered the house of a caboceer, till notice was sent to the king, who immediately invited them to his palace. They had five miles to march through this spacious capital, during which the multitude collected was so immense, and raised such a cloud of dust, that they must have stopped short, had not their escort, by a gentle but steady application of the whip ai^d the cane, opened a way, and finally cleared a space in front of the throne. The king was sitting under a veranda, dressed in two long cotton robes, and ornamented with three strings of glass beads, and a pasteboard crown covered with HUGH CLAPPERTON. 451 blue cotton, which had been procured from the coast. The mission, instead of the usual prostration, merely took off their hats, bowed, and presented their hands, which the king lifted up three times, caUing out, " Ako ! ako !" (How do you do 1) His wives behind, drawn up in a dense body, which the tra- vellers vainly attempted to number, raised loud cheers, and smiled in the most gracious manner. After an interview of half an hour, the chief eunuch showed the party to handsome and commodious lodgings, where a good dinner was prepared. In the evening they were surprised by a visit from his majesty in plain patriarchal style, with a long staff in his hand, saying that he could not sleep without again inquiring after them. Eyeo, or Katunga, capital of the kingdom of Yarriba, is fifteen miles in circumference, and supplied by seven large markets ; but there are many open fields and spaces in this wide circuit, and hence the number of inhabitants could not even be conjectured. The population of the country must be very great, the whole being under cultivation, and the towns large and numerous. The government, in theory, is most despotic. The greatest chiefs, when they approach the sove- reign, throw themselves prostrate on the ground, lie flat on their faces, and heap sand or dust upon their heads ; and the same degrading homage is paid to the nobles by their inferiors. Yet the administration seems mild and paternal ; no instances of wanton cruelty were observed; and the flourishing state of the people showed clearly the absence of all severe oppression. The horrid and bloody customs, which produce such dark scenes in Ashantee and Dahomey, were mentioned here with detestation. At the death of the king only, a few of his princi- pal ministers and favourite wives take poison, presented to them in parrot's eggs, that they may accompany and serve him in the invisible world. The first question asked by ey^ry caboceer and great man was, how many wives the king of England hadi being prepared, it should seem, to meaiure his greatness by that standard ; but when told that he had only one, they gave themselves up to a long and ungovernable fit of laughter, followed by expressions of pity and wonder how he could possibly exist in that destitute condition. The king of Yarriba's boast was, that his wives, hnked hand in hand, would reach entirely across the kingdom. Queens, however, in Africa are applied to various uses, of which Europeans have little idea. They were seen forming a large band of body- guards ; and their majesties were observed in every part of the kingdom acting as porters, and bearing on their heads enormous burdens; so that whether they should be called queens or slaves seems scarcely doubtfuL 452 HUGH CLAPPBRTON. The Eyeos, like other nations purely negro, are wholly un- acquainted with letters or any form of writing ; these are known only to the Arabs or Fellatas, who penetrate thither in small numbers ; yet they have a great deal of extemporary poetry. Every great man has bands of singers of both sexes, who constantly attend him, and loudly celebrate his achieve- in '^nts in poems of their own composition. The convivial meetings of the people, even their labours and journeys, are cheered by songs composed for the occasion, and sung often with considerable taste. Their houses are mere clay-built cottages, yet studiously adorned ■;vith carving ; the door-posts and every piece of furniture are covered with well-executed representations of warlike processions, and of the movements of huge serpents seizing their prey. They have also public performance? which do not indeed deserve the name of dra- matic, as they consist of mere mimicry and buffoonery. The first act of a piece witnessed by the strangers exhibited men dancing in sacks, who performed their part to admiration. One of the bags opened, and there came forth the boa con- strictor, fourteen feet long, covered with cotton cloth, imitating the colour and stripes of the ori ml. Though rather full in the body, it presented very nearly the form, and imitated well the actions, of that huge animal. The mouth was opened wide, probably by two hands, to devour a warrior armed with a sword, who had come forth to contend with this formidable creature, ancT who struck it with repeated blows, till it writhed in agony, and finally expired. Lastly, out of another sack came the white devil, a meagre, shivering figure, and so paint- ed as to represent an European. It took snuff, rubbed its hands, and attempted, in the most awkward manner, to walk on its naked feet. The audience, amid shouts of laughter, called the particular attention of the captain to this perform- ance ; which being really good, he deemed it advisable to join in the mirth. As soon as our traveller was fixed at Eyeo, he began to ne- gotiate in regard to the means of advancing into Houssa, anxious to pass through that country and reach Bornou before the rains should set in. The king had professed a determina- tion to serve him in every shape ; but this proved to be the very thing in which he was least inclined to fulfil his promise. All African princes seek to make a monopoly of the strangers who enter their territory. It was hinted, that one journey was well and fully employed in seeing the kingdom of Yarriba and visiting its great monarch. Captain Clapperton, having pleaded the positive command of his sovereign, was then in- formed that the direct route through Nyffe was much disturbed / HUr.H CLAPPERTON. 453 by civil war, the inroad of the Fcllatas, and the insurrection of a great body of Houssa slaves, — reports suspected at the time to have been got up merely to detain the travellers, but afterward found to be correct. The king absolutely refused permission to proceed to Ilakah, though situated on the Niger at the distance of only three days' journey ; but he undertook to convey them to Houssa by a safer though somewhat circui- tous route, through the kingdom of Borgoo. After passing through a number of smaller places, the mis- sion arrived at Kiama, capital of a district of the same name, and containing thirty thousand inhabitants. Kiama, Wawa, Niki, and Boussa are provinces composing the kingdom of Borgoo, all subject in a certain sense to the sovereign of Bous- but the ditferent cities plunder and make war on each sa other, without the slightest regard to the supreme authority. The people of Kiama and of Borgoo in general have the re- putation of being the greatest thieves and robbers in all Africa ; a character which nothing in their actual conduct appeared to confirm. Clappcrton was well received at Kiama ; and the king soon visited him with the most singular train ever seen by an European. Six young girls, without any apparel ex- cept a fillet on the forehead, and a stnng of beads round the waist, carrying each three light spears, ran by the side of his horse, keeping pace with it at full gallop. " Their light form, the vivacity of their eyes, and the ease with which they appear- ed to fly over the ground, made them appear something more than mortal." On the king's entrance, the young ladies laid down their spears, wrapped themselves in blue mantles, and attended on his majesty. On his taking leave, they discarded their attire ; he mounted his horse, " and away went the most extraordinary cavalcade I ever saw in my life." Our traveller was visited by the principal queen, who had lost her youth and charms ; but a good deal of flirtation passed between him and the eldest daughter, who, however, being twenty-five, was considered in Africa as already on the wane. Yarro, the king, was extremely accommodating, and no difficulty was found in proceeding. onward to Wawa. Wawa is a large city, containing eighteen thousand inhabi- tants, enriched by the constant passage of the Houssa cara- vans. The people spend the wealth thus acquired in dissolute pleasure, and have been denounced by our traveller as the most complete set of roaring topers he had ever known. The festivities were usually prolonged till near morning, and the town resounded through the whole night with the song, the dance, the castanet, and the Arab guitar. The Wawa ladies paid a very particular and rather troublesome attention to the 39 454 HUGH CLAPPERTOVr. English party. The Captain complains of being pestered by the governor's daughter, who came several times a-day, always half-tipsy, painted and bedizened in the highest style of Afri- can finery, to make love to him ; and on meeting only with cold excuses, she departed usually in a flood of tears. But the most persevering suit was that of Zumu, an Arab widow, pos- sessor of a thousand slaves, and the second personage in Wawa. Being turned of twenty, she was considered here ag past her bloom, and a too ample indulgence in the luxuries which her wealth afforded had enlarged her dimensions till they could be justly likened to those of a huge water-cask; yet she had still some beauty, and, being only of a deep-brown complexion, considered herself white, and was in the meet eager search aAer a white husband. In this pursuit she cast her eyes first upon the servant, to whom our traveller hesitatrsi not to assign the palm of good looks in preference to himself; and he gave Lander full permission to follow his fortune. But that sage person, unmoved by all her charms and possessions, repelled the overture in so decided a manner, that the widow soon saw there was nothing to be made of him. She then withdrew her artillery from Lander, and directed it entirely against his master, the Captain, to whom she laid very close siege. At length, in a frolic, he agreed to visit her. He found her surrounded by every circumstance of African pomp, seated cross-legged on a piece of Turkey carpet, with an English pewter mug for her goora-pot, and dressed in a rich striped silk and cotton robe of country manufacture. Her eyebrows were dyed black, her hair blue, her hands and feet red ; neck- laces and girdles of beads, coral, and gold profusely adorned her person. She made a display of additional finery lodged in her repositories, leading him through a series of apartments, one of which was ornamented with a number of pewter dishes and bright brass pans. After these preliminaries, she at once declared her wish to accompany him on his journey, and pro- posed to send forthwith for a malem, or holy man, to read the fatha, by which their fates would be indissolubly united. Clap- perton, who seems to have been completely stunned by this proposal, stammered out the best apology he could, and has- tened away. His conduct, however, does not appear to have been so decisive as to deter the lady from the most energetic perseverance in her suit. She even obtained his permission for his servant Pascoe to accept a wife from among her slaves; but he was not aware that, according to African ideas, she had thus acquired a sort of claim to himself. Regardless of all these tender solicitations, our traveller had no sooner completed his arrangements than he set out for the HUGH CLAPPERTON. 455 u Niger, leaving directions for his baggage to join him at the ferry ofComie, while he went round by way of Bouasa. We shall follow him at present to the former place, where he did not find any of his baggage, but learned that the widow, having placed it under arrest, had left Wawa with drums beat- ing and a nitmerous train ; and besides, that she claimed a full right to his person, because his servant Pascoe had ac- cepted a wife at her hand. It was whispered, moreover, that she was meditating to supplant the governor, — a scheme which, aided by the personal bravery of the strangers, she might probably realize, — and afterward she meant to invite the Captain to ascend the throne of Wawa. " It would have been a fine end to my journey, indeed,'' says he, "if I had de- posed old Mohammed, and set up for myself, with a walking tunbutt for a queen." Scarcely had he received this account when a present from the widow intimated her arrival in neighbouring village. Our author, however, insensible to all the brilliant hopes thus opened, set o£f full speed for Wawa to recover his baggage. On his arrival, the governor refused to liberate it till Zuma's return, — Clapperton in vain protesting that his movements and hers had no sort of connexion. However, next day, the sound of drums was heard, and the widow made her entree in full pomp, astride on a very fine horse, with housings of scarlet cloth, trimmed with lace. The large circumference of her own person was invested in a red silk mantle, red trowsers, and morocco boots ; and numer- ous spells, sewed variously in coloured leather, were hung all round her. She was followed by n train of armed attendants, and preceded by a drummer decked in ostrich feathers. On the whole, the scene was so splendid, that our hero's resolution seems for]a moment to have wavered. However, his part wad scon taken. Pascoe was directed to return his wife, and thus extinguish all claim that could be founded upon her ; and having received his baggage our traveller set forwarJ without even admitting the fond widow to any further conference. On his way to Comie, Clapperton had visited Boussa, a place chiefly interesting as the scene where the career of Park terminated in a manner so tragical. Every thing tended to confirm the report of Amadi Fatouma, and to dispel the skep- ticism with which it had been originally regarded. The king, iiowever, and all the citizens, spoke of the event v.'ith deep grief and reluctance, and disavowed all personal concern in the transaction. One man gave as the reason of the attack on the discoverers, that the English had been mistaken for the ad- vanced guard of the Fellatas,who were then ravaging Soudan. It was added, that a number of natives died in consequence, 456 HUGH CLAPPERTON. as was imagined, of eating the meat found in the boats, which was supposed to be human flesh. That the Enghsh have no abode but on the sea, and that they cat the flesh of the iic' feet artleasness of manners, which, whether observed in black or white, are sure 10 command the esteem and reverence of the other sex. Her eyelids were !>tained with a bluish4>lack powder, her person was excessively clean, and her apparel flowing, neat, and graceful. We shot a hawk this evening, which was hovering over our house, at the r^ quest of several of the natives, who ate the body of the bird, but preaerved ito head and claws, to render them " keen of eye and swift of foot. " The king will not allow us to go to Jenna by the nearest beaten path, on the plea that as. sacred fetish land would lie in our way, we should die the moment we should tread upon it. Tmday, MarA 30th.— The occurrencies of this day may be rekoed in very few words. The pleasantest news we hear is the fact of the King of Jenna having arrived at that town from Katunga. His messenger arrivM here Ihki morning, and came to see us in the afternoon, accompanied by a friend. We regaled him with a ^ass of rum, according, to our general custom, the fiM mouthful whereof he squirted from his own mto the month of his associate, and tin vena. This is the first time we have wimessed this dirty and disgusting practice. The chief sent for us again this afternoon, and summed up the mea> I'ure of his exorbitant demands by requesting a ^uu-boat, with a hundred men from England, aad a few conuuon tobacco-pipes for his own private use. We eooid easily give a bill for the former, but the latter we dared not part with at any risk, because, considering the long journey before us, we are convinced we liave nothing to spare ; indeed, it is our opinion that the presents will all be ex- liuuted long before it be completed. With the same facility we have written a ?Hicr for forty ounces of gold, to be distributed among the chiefs of Engliah 'own and the rest of our partisans. We had adjusted these litde matters to the apparent satisfaction of all parties, when we were most agreeably surprised by an assurance from the chief that we diall quit this place to-morrow afternoon with the newly-arrived Jenna messenger. We are accordin^y on the qui vive 'AUule A/Kct. ■hell, the currency of many part* 4f that country and of the interior of 41 478 MCBAKP AUD JOHN LAMDUL inmtlijBg erenr thing in • itate of forwardneit for our departure ; nor can w« help wining, tor the Mke of oar credit, that we may never meet such needy and importonate firiends aa have pestered oa lince oar residence in t|iis town. The soil of Badagrv conaista of a layer of fine whitish sand, over loam, clay, and earth. Tne sand is so soft and aeep that no one can walk on it withont considerable labour aiid difficalt3r. The natives procare die necessaries of life chiefly by fishing and the cultivation of the yam and Indian corn. In the Tor- mer employment they use nets and speara, and likewise earthen pots, which they bait with palm-nut. These novel instruments are furnished with small apertures, not unlike those of a common wire mouse-trap. Oranges, limes, cocoanatfi, ElantuoB, &nd bananas are produced in abundance in the neighbourhood. The etter sort of people are possessed of a small kind of bullock, with sheep, goate, and poultry ; the chief himself is a drover and butcher, and when in waut of money he orders one of his bullocks to be slaughtered and publicly sold in the market The dwellingi> of the inhabitants are neatly coustructed of bamboo, and thatched with palm leaves. They contain several apartmentf , all of them on the ground-floor. Some of the houses or huts are built in the eoozie form, which is nearly round, and others are in the form of an oblong square : all have excellent yar^ attached to them, wherein lime-trees and others are planted in rowa, and it gives one pleasure to look at the cleanliness and taste which prevail in these courts. The land is excessively fer'ale ; and if the natives could only be induced to lay aside their habitual indolence, and the sluggishness of their charac- ters, and devote a little more attention to the improvement of the soil, the coun- try mi^t soon be brought to an extraordinary pitch of beauty and perfection. Aa it is, vegetation springs forth spontaneously, is luxuriant even to rankness, and is ever ple^ingly verdant. A singular custom of administering justice prevails at Badagry . It is by means of a large wooden cap, having three comers, which is placed on the head of a culprit at the period of his examination. This fantastic work of mechanism, no doubt, by the structure of internal springs, may be made to move and shake witfiout any visible agent— on the same pnnciple as the enchanted Turk, or any other figure in our puppet-shows. It is beUeved the native priests alone are in the secret. When this cap is observed to shake while, on the head of a suspect- ed person, he is condemned, without further evidence being required; but should it remain without any perceptible motion, his innocence is apparent, and he is forthwith acquitted. ' The fame of this wonderful cap makes a great dm in the town, and as many marvellous stories are told of it here as were related in Inland a century or two ago of the famous brazen head of Roser Bacon. A respectable man, the chief of French Town, wa? tried by me ordeal of the cap adiorttime ance, for having, it was alleged, accepted a bribe of the Lagos chieftain to destroy Adooley by poison. The fa!ta\ cap was no sooner put on his head than it was observed to move slightly, and then to become inoie vio- lently agitated. The criminal felt its motion, and was terrified to such a degree that he fell down in a swoon. On awaking, he confessed his guilt, and implored forgiveness, which was granted him by Adooley, because, it was said, of his sor- row and contrition, but really, no doubt, of his birth and connexions. On the morning of the Slat of March our travellers bade adieu to the chief of Badagry, and tetween ten and eleven o'clock of the same night set out in King A dooley's war-canoe (lent them for this purposo) on their way towards the Nurer. The canoe, they say was above forty feet in length ; it was propelled through the water by poles instead of paddles, and moved slowly and silently along. It was a clear and lovely night; thenaoon shone glorious "as a silver shield;" and reflecting the starry firmament on the unruffled surface of the water, the real concave of heaven with its reflection seemed to form a perfect world. The scenery on the borders of the river appeared wild andstrikiiig, though not mag- idficent. In the delicious moonshine |t was far from nninterestiug. The banks were low, and partially covered with stunted trees; hut a slave factory, and a fetish hut were tne only buildinn we observed on them. We could not help admiring at lome distance ahead of our canoe, when the windings of the river RICHARD AND JOHN LANDKR. 479 nor can w«> wDuld permit, a noble Lnd aolitaiy palm-tree, with its loftjr braachei bendiiif over tM water's edgu ; to ua it was not unlike a majesticu ^lume of fealhen, noddinf over the head of a beautiAil lady. The principal incidents on the paa- Nge were the croakinf of myriads of frogs, inhabiting small islands in the river, and the chattering and uoise of monkies and parrots kept up among the branches of the trees all da^ long, until about half past eight in the morning of the first of April we landed m the nght of a great multitude assembled to gaze at us, and passing through a place where a great fair or market is held, and where thou- sands of people had congregated ror diepurposes of trade, we entered an ezten- sire and romantic town called JVow. llie major part of the inhabitants had never before had an opportunity of seeing white men, so that their curiosity, as may be supposed, was excessive. Two of the principal persons came out to meet us, preceded by men bearing large silk umbrellas, and another playing a horn, which produced such terrible looiids, that we gladly took refuge, as soon as we could, in the chief's house. The apartment into which we were introduced is furnished with a roof precise- ly like the roof of a common English baru, inverted. In the middle of it, which reached to within a few inches of the floor, a large square hole had been made, to admit air and water to a shrub that was growing directly lender it. The most nmarkable, if not the only, ornament in the room, was a (^ointity of human jaw-bones, hung up on the side of the wall like a strinc ol ouions.- After a formal and most ceremonious introduction, we were libendly regaled with water from a calabash, which is a compliment the natives pay to all strangers, and tiwn shown intu a very small apartment. Here my brother endeavoured to pro- rare a little sleep, having remained awake last ni^ht ; but we were so annoyed by perpei.(.al interruptions and intnisions, the firing of muskets, the gamdity of women, the unceasing; squall of children, the druiuceh petitions of men and bays; and a laugh (but it is quite out of my power to describe it — one that a^ prozimatesmore to the nature of a horse-bugh than any thing I know) — that it was found impossible to close one's eyes. The market of this place is supplied abundantly with Indian com, palm oil, &c. ; togeteer with trona," and other articles brought hither from die borden of the desert of Zaarha, through the medium of the wandering Arabs. By ikib rwulations of the fetish, neither a white man nor a horse is permitted to deep' at Wow during the night season. We know not what is become of the horses ; they were to have preceded us to this place by land, but are not yet arrived. With respect to ourselves we shall be obliged to walk to a neighbounng village, and spend the night there. Our course to this town through this creek, was N. by E., and Badagiy is distant firom it about thirty miles, by the route we have come. A violent thunder-storm, which is called a tornado on the coast, visited us this afternoon, and confined us to the "worst hut's worst room," till it had subsided, and the weather became finer. At three P. M. we sallied forth, and presenthr were greeted with hootings, groans, andhallooings, from a multitude of people of all ages — fi-om a child to its grandmother, and they followed close at our heels aa we went along, filling the air with their laughter and raillery. A merry-andrew at a country town in England, during the Whitsun holydays, never excited so great a stir as did our departure from Wow this afternoon. But it is " fool's day," and some allowance ought to be made for that, no doubt. We had not proceeded more than a dozen paces from the outskirts of the town, when we were visited by a pelting shower, which wetted us to the skin in a moment. A gutter or hoUow, misnamed a pathway, was soon overflowed; and we had to wade in it up to our knees in water, and through a most melancholy-looking forest, before we entered a village. It is called SagbUj and is about eight miles from Wow. We were dripping wet on our arrivid, and the weather still con- tinuing unpleasant, it was some time before any one made his appearance to invite us into a hut. At length the chief came out to welcome us to his village, and immediately introduced us into a long narrow apartment, wherein we are to * A TegeUble alkali. 180 BICHABD AND JOHN LANDBB. Ictk0 np oar quarten for the night It ia built of clay> and i> fturnithed with two •pertnres to admit light and air into the room. One end of it was occupied with a 'v.umberof noisy goats, while we took possession of the other. Paakoe* and his wife are lying on mats at our feet ; and a Toby Philpot, widi his ruddy cheek and jug of ale, belonging to the chief, separates them from the goats. The remainder ofour people have nowhere to sleep. The walls of our apartment are ornamented with strings of dry, rattling human bones, written charms,, or fetishes, sheep-skins, and bows and arrows. We did not repose near so com- fortably as could have been desired, owing to the swarms of miuquitoea and black ants, which treated us very deapitefuUy till morning. Friday, April 2d. — Bet ween six and seven o'clock A. M., we continued our route through woods, and large open patches of ground, and at about eleven in the forenoon, arrived at the borders of a deep glen, more wild, romantic, and picturesque than can be conceived. It is enclosed and overhung on ail sides by trees of amazing height and dimensions, which hide it in deep shadow. Fancy might picture a spot so silent and solemn as this as the abode of genii and fiiiries; every thing conducing to render it grand, melancholy, and vener- able; and the gleu only wants an old dilapidated castle, a rock with a cave in it, or something of the kind, to render it the most interesting place in the universe. "niere was one beautiful sight, however, which we would not omit mentioning for the world ; — it was that of an incredible number of butterflies, fluttering about us Uke a swarm of bees. They had chosen this, no doubt, as a place of tefuge against the fury of the elements. They were variegated by the most brilliant tints and colourings imaginable — ^the wings of some were of a shining green, edged and sprinkled wi&' gold; others were of sky-blue and silver; others of purple and gold deUghtfmly blending into each other; and the wings of some were like dark silk velvet, trimmed and braided with lace. To revert from insects to men : our followers formed a group, at once savage and imposing. As they winded down the paths of the glen, with their grotesque clothing and arms, bundles, and fierce Mack countenances, they might be mii- taken for a strange band of ruffians of the most fearful character. Besides our own, we had hired twenty men of Adooley to carry the luggage, as there are no beasts of burden in the country .t Being all assembled at me bottom of the glen, we found that a long and dangerous bog or swamp, filled with putrid water and tfn decaying remains of vegetable substances, inteiwoted our path, and must neceasanly be crossed. Boughs of trees had been thrown into the swamp by some good-natured people to assist travellers in the attempt, so that our men, iUmishing themselves with long poles, which they used as walking-sticks, with much difficulty and exertion succeeded in getting over, and fewer accidents oc- curred to them than could have been supposed possible from the nature of the slough. For my own part, I was taken on the back of a large and powerful man, of amazing strength. His brawny shoulders supported me without any i^parent fatigue on his part ; and he carried me through bo^ and water, anil over branches of trees no bigger than a man's leg, rendered slippery with mud, in safety to the opposite side. Although he walked as fust and with as much ease as bis companions, he did not lay me down for twenty minutes, the swamp being, as qearly as we could guess, a full quarter of a mile iu length. We then walked to a small village called Basha; whence without stopping we continued our journey, and about four in the afternoon passed through another village, somewhat larger than the former, which is called Soato. Here we found ou^ selves so much exhausted with over-fatigue and want of food, that we were com- pelled to sit down dnd rest awhile, and here — " Naked youths and paintod ohieft admire Our speech, our colour, and our strange attire." ' But they are a very uncourteous and clownish race, and teased us so much with their rudeness and begging propensities, that we were glad to be rid of them by * Om of the Landers' attendants. t Bafdena of all kinds are invariably carried on the head by the people of Yariba, and the ai- tivw «f fWiwiseUisr oouatrios i« Afriea, RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 481 getting out again. Having passed two ctlier swamps in the same manner as we had done before, we were complelely tired and could go no farther; for we lad been walking all day, in an intricate, miserable path, sometimes expoeed to the sun, and sometimea threading our way through a tangled wood. It is now ail o'clock in the evening — our people are gone to the next town to fetch die horses, which Adooley promised should meet us yesterday ; and my brother and I are resting fiy ourselves under a grove of trees, which is in the neighbourhood of a body of stagnant water, wherein women are bathing and casting sidelong glances at us. I^ is a low, marshy, and unwholesome spot, and it is extremely probaJble that we shall be obliged to sleep here on the grass all night ; but what can we do T The village, it is true, is not many miles ahead, but then we are unable to walk. Saturday, April 3d.— ^e had made fires of dried wood and fallen leaves last evening, and had prepared to repose for the night under a canopy of trees, and were in fact actually stretched at full length on the turf for that purpose, when we were agreeably surprised by the arrival of four of our men from the village with hammocks; for though sleeping in the open air, with " heaven for one's canopy," in a dark wood, and all that, may be very pretty in description, yet in reality nothing can be more disagreeable; for the crawling of ants, black worms, Ac. over one's face disperses the most enchanting reveiy. These hammocks were highly acceptable, and we were lifted into them with very grateful feelinfs. It is pleasant, too, after a long day's journey on foot, to be carried along so easily on one's back, to eee parrots and other solemn birds perched on the branches of very tall trees, while the trees themselves seem capering away from oae most surprisingly; as well as to gaze on the cheerful moon, and admire all the host of heaven. After a charming journey of eight or ten miles, we entered the large and populous town of Bidjie. About a quarter of a mile from the town we were met by a fellow with a cow's horn, wno, chiming in with a trumpeter that had accompanied us from Wow, produced a harmony surpassing all that had pre- ceded It. Two men followed the Bidjie musician with umbrellas of variegated slk, and, thui) honoured and escorted, we were set down, amid a crowd of peo- ple, in the centre of the town. As usual, the natives testified the wilddeught they felt at our visit by clapping of hands and luud bursts of laughter. Preaent- \j, at the noise of three or four drums, which was a signal that thronciency, owing to a wonderfully capacious mouth and teeth of extraordinary size, baa not been near so flattering as could havtf been wished. Ilia people, however, who had assembled in great numbers, were of a diiferent opinion, and when they heard their chief draw the first sound from the little in> atrament, " Shoati of applause ran rattling to the ^kie*." Tnmpikea are as common from Badagry to this place as on any public road in England. Instead of horses, carriages, &c., people carrying burdens alone are taxed; but as we are under protection of the government, no duty has been ex- acted for any of our things. Stmday, April 4th. — ^We arose at sunrise this morning to make arrangementg for leaving this place, which is no easy task ; and sent to signify our intention to the chief shortly after. He expressed a desire to see us as soon as we could conveniently come; and accordingly after breakfast we repaired to his habita- tion, which is adjoining ours. Led through a number of yards and huts, in- habited only by goats and sheep, which were tethered to posts, and a quantity of tame pigeons, we perceived the object of our visit squatting on a leopard's akin under a decent looking verandah. He was surrounded by his drummers and other distinguished persons, who made room for us as we drew near. But the chief arose aa soon as he saw us, and beckoning to us to follow him, we were nahered through a labyrinth of low huts, and still lower doors, till at last we en- tered the innermost apartment of the whole suit, and here we were requested to ntdown and drink rum. The doors we had seen were carved with figures of men, which exactly resembled certain rude attempts at portraying the human bodv which mav still be observed in several old churches and chapels in the west of England. 'The chief informed us that we were at Uberty to quit Bidjieas Boon as the heat of the sun should have somewhat abated, but previous to our departure he promised to return our visit. On leaving the place he followed ua, thouffh without our knowledge ; but finding that we walked faster than he, and that ne could not keep pace with us, (for he is a bulky man,^ he hastily des- patched a messenger to inform us that kings always walk with a slow and measured step, and that our strides being lon^ and vulgar, he woula thank as to leaaen our speed, and stop awhile to enable him to come up with us, which of eoune we agreed to with great good-will. A few minutes after this he reached our house, dressed in a tobe of green silk damask, very rich and showy, and a aeall^ap made of purple and crimson velvet. With the exception of strings of white beads, which encircled his arms, he used no personal ornaments. He re- mained chatting with us a long time. Many of the '."tmen of Bidjie have the flesh on their foreheads risen in the shape of marbles, and their cheeks similarly cut up and deformed. The lobes of their ears are likewise pierced, and the holes made surprisingly large, for the insertiunof pieces of ivory and wood into them, which is a prevaiUng fashion with all ranks. We read the church service this rooming, acreeably to our general custom. The natives, of whose society we have never Been able to rid ounelvea, seemed to attach great awe and reverence to our form of worship, for we had made them understand what we were going about, which induced them to pay a high degree of silent attention to the ceremony, and set at rest, for the timet Ibat pecuhar continuous laugh by which they are distinguished from their neighbours. In the afternoon, or, as the natives express it, " when the son had lost his strength," we departed from the town of^ Bidjie, accompanied by il« good4atured, nappy governor, and reached the banks of a rivulet called You'm a very few minutes. Butterflies were here more numerous than can be imagin- «d; niilliona of them fluttered round us, and hterally hid from our sight every iMug hut their own variegated and beantiflil wings. .it BICHARD AND JOHN L.AMDKR. 483 Hare on the banks of the Yow we took a hat farewell of die affeetionite old ehief, who implored the " Great God" to bless lu ; and as the canoes in wbidi we hsd embarked moved from the apot, a loud long laugh, with clapping of hands from the lower classes, evinced the satisfaction they lelt at having seen us, and their hearty wishes for our welfare. The Yow is an extremely narrow rivulet, not more than a few feet in breadth ; and flows in a serpentine direction thron|^ a flat country; covered with rushes and tall rank grass. Crocodiles are said to i«8ort here in great numbers ; the low bark or growl of these rapacious animals we heard distinctly, and almost close to us. After we had been pushed along against the stream by poles for five or six miles, between four and live o'clock in the afternoon we landed at a narrow creek, which ran a little way into a thick and gloomy forest. We had not pro- ceeded more than two hundred yards on the pathway, when we were met by a messenger from Jenna, who informed na that the owners of all the horses in the town haid rode out to welcome their chief, and escort him to his residence, so that we should be obliged to walk the remainder of the way. A few minutes only had elapsed, however, from this time, before we descried a horse approach- ing us in the path. This was a goodly sight to us, who were already becoming wearied and sore with the exertions we had made during the day, for we did not reflect a moment that the animal might not, afler all, be for our use. However, we soon met, - ty in any part of the w jrld, that he was approaching those eternal shades where in ancient time the souls of good men were supposed to wander. The woods rang with the songs of insects and night-birds, which saluted us xvith Uttle iiiter- miasion till about ten o'clock at night, when we entered Laatoo, a large and pleasant town. Here we were informed that no house would be offered us, the fetish-priest having declared that the moment a white man should enter the dwellings of the inhabitants, they would be seized by their enemies and enslaved. We arrived thirsty and exausted, but for a long time could not procure even a drop of water. Our tent had been left on the road for want of carriers, and we had made up our minds to rest under « tree, when about two hours afterward it was fortunately brought into the town. We fixed it immediately, and having mcceeded in procuring wood from the unkidd inhahitantt, whe kiiuiled a fire in front of it, aqd our people laid themselves in groups outude, while we eniered, and attempted vainly to deep. 484 BICHARD AND JOHN LANDBS. Mamdag, April 5t&. — Before sunrise this morning we were all on the alert, and struck the tent at a very early hour. We then sent the carriers onward with the luggage, and hastily left the town after them, without bidding adieu either to the chief or any of his people, on account of their inhospitality? and in an hour's time reached the extensive and important town of Lam. On Ginaounting, we were first led to a large, cleanly-swept square, wherein is preserved the fetish of the place, which is the model of a canoe, having three wooden figures with paddles in it. After waiting in the shade for an hour, surrounded by an immense multimde of people of all ages, the chiers approach was announced by a gene- ral rush from our quarters to the other end of the square, where he was walking. We went towards him in order to pay him the accustomed salutation of shaking hands, &c. ; but one of his followers, fancying that I kept his master's hand clasped in mine longer than the occasion might warrant, looked fiercely in my face, and snatched away my hand, eagerly and roughly, without, however, utter- ing a word. I could have pulled the fellow's ears with the greatest good-will in the worlds haJ not the fear of secret revenge deterred me. As it was, I smoth- ered my rising choler, and with my brother quietly followed the chief to hisprin- c'pal hut, under whose verandah we were served with goora-nuts in a huge pewter platter. Presently the chief squatted himself down on a handsome rush mat of native manufacture, and we were desired to sit by him on an elegant Turkey carpet which had been laid there for the purpose. He was rather fan- cifully dressed ; and wore two tobes, that nearest the skin being of blaek silk velvet, and the other crimson velvet lined with sarsenet. His boots were of yel- low leather, neatly worked: and his wrists were loaded with bracelets of silver and cupper. The chief's countenance betrayed much seriousness and solidly ; and the diverting laugh of his countrymen was superseded by a sober cheerful- ness. Many of his wires sat behind him in lines — some of whom were of a bright copper color ; indeed, great numbers of the inhabitants of Lorro have fairer complexions than mulattoes. The yard of the hut was crammed full of riirious and inquisitive people, who stood with open mouth during the whole of the audience. The ohief wished to impress strongly on our minds his own dig- nity and power* he said he was greater than the Governor of Jeuna, inasmuch as the Utter was a slave to the King of Katunga, but himself was a freeman. He would give us permission to depart to-morrow, he continued ; and in the mean- time would supply us witli provisions. The chief was as good as his word, for shortly after we had quitted the hut we received a goat and some yams; and he returned our visit in the cool of the evening. It appears that it is not his gene- ral practice to drink spirituous liquors in the presence of his people, or it may be against the law to do so ; for having carefully exchided all prying eyes from our dwelling, and ordered a mat to be hung over the doorway, he even then turned his face to the wall, whenever he attempted to swallow the brandy we offered him. He remained with us rather better than an hour. We have forgotten to mention, that on our presentation to the chief in the morning, a chaptei' from the Koran was repeated to him by a Mohammedan priest, to which both he and his people seip^^.ed to pay great respect and attention. Public schools are established here for the avowed purpose of teaching the rising generation the rudiments of the Mohammedan religion. A singular custom prevails in the town, of compelling children at the breast to swallow a quantity of cold water from a calabash. An infant was nearly chok- ed this afternoon by the injection of more than a pint of water down its throat Whether mothers follow this custom for the purpose of curing children of any imaginary complaints, or, as is more probable, in the hope of rendering them less eager for their natural food, we have not ascertained. The inhabitants possess horses, aasea, and mules, though not in considerable numbers; they have, however, great abundance of sheep and goats, which are bred in the town; and their yards and huts are the common place of resort for theee animals— inde< 1 they may be said to grow up and live with the children of their owners. We have obMrved th« countiy to be Mnribly riaiiig to-day ; and agrienltiure BICHARO AND JOHN LANDBB. 485 ippeui to be conducted on a regular system, which is an evident proof of the aeliTe and industrious habits of the people. The gloomy fastnesses and wild- nesns of nature, such as we passed on the first day or two of our journey from Badagry- are leas common as we advance; and open glades, with plantations of btmnas, and fields of yams and Indian com, all neatly fenced, met our View from the path yesterday and this morning. The inhabitants of Larro also ex- hibit greater cleanliness of person and tidiness of apparel than th^ tribes nearer the sea; and importunate beggars have disappeared entirely. Tkesday, April 6th. — The sun had scarcely risen above the horizon, and the mistB of the morning yet hung upon the hills, when we quitted the town of Lar- ro, and pursued our journey on horseback- Three horsemen from Jenna fol- lowed ua on the path, and we were enlivened by the wild jingling of their ani- mal's bells, till we got within a mile of that town, where we Sighted at a kind of turnpike, and fired a salute of two muskets. Here we were met by a parcel of fellows with horns, who blew on them with the accustomed energy of the na- tives : these men preceded us over i bridge, which is thrown across a moat that wrrounds Jenna, into the centre of the town, where we alighted, and waited the chief's pleasure in an open shed. We had not been seated many moments be- fore an' immense crowd of people pressed in upon us on every side, subjecting 08 to the accustomed inconveniences of want of air, strong, unwholesome smeUa, ind a confused hubbub that defies description. Never were people more eager , to behold us. The little ones formed themselves into a ring close to the shed, ' then followed those of maturer age, after them came a still older class, and the Itst circle consisted of people as tall as steeples, most of whom held infants in their arms. Altogether was formed a large ampitheatre of black woolly heads and teeth set in jetty faces; and although we felt rather annoyed at their inno- cent curiosity, and were obliged to wait a considerable time tor the new chie^ we could not help being highly diverted with the spectacle around us. At length, to our great reUef and joy, news was brought that he was ready to receive us. Such is the etiquette here, that the longer a stranger is compelled to wait to be introduced, the greater is the honor done him, and the higher is the rank of that person supposed to be who exacts this unpleasant delay. We discovered the chief, or rather governor, sitting on a piece of leather, under a large verandah. It one end of a commodious square yard. He was clad in the prevailing finery of crimson velvet tobe and cap, both edged with gold lace. At his right hand at his wives and women, and we were desired to place ourselves on his left. The women sang the praises of their master in a loud unpleasant voice, in which they were assisted by the music (equally unharmouious^ of diums, fifes, clarion- ets, and horns. On our wishing the chief all the happmess in the world, those that had flocked into Uie yard after us, and every one near him, prostrated then»- wives on the ground and clapped their hands. Goora-nuts were presented ua in water, and a profusion of compliments passed on both sides; but the dignity of the newly-made governor seemed to sit rather awkwardly upon hini, for lie was shy and bashful as a maiden, aud really appeared agitated and idraid of hia white-laced visitants. Strange as it may seem, the patience of the most patient mnnle in the world was completely exhausted, as might be seen by their deser- iixu of the premises before we quitted them, notwithstanding the few words that had passed between the chief and ourselves. The ceremony of introduc- tion being over, we bade adieu to the chief, and having visited the grave of Dr. Morriaou in our way, repaired to a hut which had been got ready for our re- ception. The former governor of Jenna, who, it will be recollected, treated the gentle- men composing the last mission so handsomely, died about fifteen months ago, u>d the lung of Yarriba chose one of the meanest of his slaves as his successor. This is an invariable rule with the sovereigns of that country of which Jenna is a province; for they fear that, its distance from the capital being very great, a person of higher rank, if poasesaed of talents and spirit, could easily influence the natives to throw off the yoke, and declare themselves independent of Yarri- ba. The present governor ia a Hauna man, and waa nised to the dignity be now holds, in idl probability, on ■econnt of his childish simplicity and artleisneas ; 486 RICHABD AND JOHN LAIVDKB* for a p^non with a eonntenance more indicatiTe of innocence, and perfaaptna-* pidit3r akj, we never recollect to have seen. The Qualities of hia heart, h(nreT-< ea, are aaid to be excellent, and hiis ttianners are milaand amiable. He had been twelve months in coming from Katunga to this place, being under the neceaita' of stopping at every town between Jenna and his capital to receive the applauses and congratulations' of the inhabitants and to join in their festivities and amuse- ments. He did not make his entry here till yesterday. It is related in Captain Clapperton's journal than one of old Pascoe's wives eloped from him in Katunga, while he was asleep, taking with her the tnokela Mrs. Belzoni had given him, and that she was never afterwards heard of. This woman had the effrontery to introduce herself into our house to-day witfi au in- fant, whereof she asserted with warmth that Pascoe wa» the father, and that dw was determined to leave it upon his hands. She had prevailed upon a number of Haussa females to accompany her, that the^ might endeavor to induce her qiumdam husband, who is a countryman of theirs, to receive the child, and make up the breach between them; but the infant not being mora than nine, or at most twelve montks old, and three or four years having elapsed since the elope- ment took place, we were convinced, independently of the age and infirmities of Pascoe, that it c .uld by no rule of law be his. Accordingly, notwithftandhig the uproar occasioned by the women's tongues, ^which is no small matter in any part of the world,) the mother, with her spurious offspring, and the ladies that came to aid and abet her imposition, were turned out of the vard without any ceremony, to the great relief of Pascoe and his present rib, who felt rather uncomfortable while the palaver was carrying on. The fetish priest of the town came dancing into our hut this aflemoon, (April 7th,) looking exceedingly wild and roaring as if possessed bv an evil spirit. We Eaid little attention to the fellows fooleries, who, not liking his reception, left the ut, after we had given him the accustomed fee o' "■ few eowries. The man's person and dress, together with its whimsical ornaments, were admirably fitted to impose on the credulity and superstition of the inhabitants, though many of the town's people, influenced perhaps bv the spreading doctrines of Mahomet, spoke their minds pretty freely, calhng him a scoun<£el and .a devil. There was something peculiar in the priest's countenance that we could not define. On his shoulders he bore a large club, carved at one end with the figure of a man's head. A vast number of strings of cowries were suspended on this wear pon, which were intermixed with bells, broken combs, small pieces of wood, with rude imitations of men's faces cut on them, large sea-shells, bits of iron and brass, nut shells, &c. &c. Perhaps the number of cowries on his person did not fall far short of twenty thousand ; and the weight of his various ornaments almost pressed him to the ground. After this feUow had left our apartment, three or four others came to torment us with drums, whistles, and horns, and began and ended the evening's serenade to their own infinite delight and satis- ftcdon. The native drum answers the purpose of a tambarine and bagpipe as well, and is of peculiar formation. Its tojp is encircled with little brass bells, and is played upon with one hand, while the fingers of the other are employed at the same time in tapping on its surface. The instrument itself is held under the left arm, but instead of an outer wooden case, strings alone are used from end to end, which being pressed against the musician's side, sounds somewhat simi- lar to those of the Scotch bagpipe, but very inferior, are produced. The drum- mers, with their companions of the horns and whisdes, subsist entirely on the charity of the ijublic, who require their services on all occasions of general merriment and jollity. We were witnesses this morning, (April 8th,) to a specimen of native tumbling and dancing, with the usual accompaniments of vocal and instrumental music. By far the most diverting part of the entertainment was the dancing; but even this did not answer the expectations we had formed of it. The performers were liberally supplied with country beer, and, like most amusements of the kind, they ended this with wrangling and intoxication. The fellows that acconapa- nied us as guides fVom Badagty, who in their native place would sell their birtb- ri^t for a glaaa of ram, have now waahcd tfannsehrei and thrown aiide tbw e ■%-, RIOHAKD AND JOHN LANOKB. 467 N^ ■ppearinf at all public places m borrowed finery. They now never leave Aht habitatioiiB withoat Adooley'a iword, which they have with them, and a koit of foUowen. This morning they attended the celebration of the games, in ^wy apparel, with silk umbrellas held over their heads, and among other utides of dress, the principal of them wore an immense dralMsolored Quaker's hit, of the coarsest quality. They will scarcely deign to speak to a poor man. We learn with regret that all the horses of the late governor of Jenna were interred, according to custom, with the corpse of their master; and we begin to be apprehensive that we shall be obliged to walk the whole of the v/ay to Ka- tanga, as the present ruler is not the owner of a single beast of burden. This niece of ill news was carefully withheld from us till after the presents had all been duly delivered to the governor and his head men; but the latter alone are to blame in this instance. Sf atters being in this unpleasant state, we have sent a messenger to the chief of Larro, to i^orm him of the circumstance, and en- tnathim to redeem his promise of lending us a horse or a mule ; and another to Adooley, requesting him to despatch immediately one of our horses, at least, from Badagty, for mat we have found it impossible to do without hhn. But wiiether the latter will accede to it or not remains to be seen. We do not think that he will; and yet we can hardly imagine he will carry lus chicanery so fiur,. because he tnust fear that the variety of orders we have given him to receive nloable presents from England wiU never be honored by our countrymen if he lefoses to fulfil his engagements to us. This evening a corpse was interred at a short distance from our dwelling, and tjiefrieuds of rae deceased have been employed more than an hour in bewailing their loss. The low plaintive noise they make sounds dolefully in our hut, and it has a veiy sorrowful and depressing effect on our spirits. We have been pretty busily engaged during the whole of the afternoon in writing letters and despatches for England. 'Hiey will be forwarded by Adoo- ley, as soon as possible, to Cape Coast Castle. The Badagrian guides and car- riers will return home to-morrow, to our great relief, for they have been a con- aamt trouble, and have harrassed us from morning till night. Friday, April 9tA. — Since the demise of the late governor, it is calculated that Jemia has lost more than five hundred of its population, chiefly by wars, intes- tine broils, &c., and for want of a ruler. It must not be imagined, however, duit because the people of this country are almost perpetually engaged in con- flicts with their neighbors, the slaughter of human beings is therefore very great. They pursue war, as it is called, partly as an amusement, or to " keep their buds m;" and partly -to benefit themselves by the capture of slaves. As we were sailing down the coa^ we were told that the natives of Cape La Hoo- and Jack-a4ack had been warring for three years previously, and were still at variance ; but, during that long period, only one single decrepit old woman, who found it no easy matter to run as fast as her countrymen, was left behind, and be- came the solitary victim of a hundred engagements. Much after the same fitab- ion are the bloodless wars of Jenna. Success depends much more on the onn- niiig and address of the parties,- than on any extraordinary display of intrepidi- 9; and living, not dead, subjects are sought after ; so that it is their tRterest t» woid hard blows, and enrich themselves by the sale of their prisoners. Per- ls^ the extraorre the two Muaanlinani pnUicly went throofb tliair ablntioiii in front of our houae, taming their facet to the eait, ihey aeeoMd to pray very devoutly tu tiie founder of their faith. When thia wm concfaidail, th^ aaiu: ua an Arabio hymn with veiy great aolemnity, and the wiioie had an immamate and wonderful effect on the neliiga of many of their fcUoweiB in the yard, who, miataking loudneaa of voice for fervor, aind hypo- critical aeriouaneaa for piety, made tM two worahippeia a preaent of money. Tlie women of Jenna employ theniaelves geneiaUy in apinning cotton or pre- paring Indian corn for food. Much of the former material grow* in the vicinity •f the town, but the cultivation of the pkmt ia not carried On with the spirit it deaervea. Silk, which is brought over land from Tripoli, the inhabitantR wme- timea interweave in their cotton garmenta, but auch, being very expemuve, are only worn by the hii^r claaa of people. They have- abundance of bullocks, nigs, goala, aheep, and poultnr, but they prefer vegetable food to animal; their diet, indeed, ia what we riioald term poor and watery, consiating chiefly of pre- parationa of the yam and of Indian com ; notwidwtuiding which a atronger or more athletie race of people ia no where to be met with. Burdena with them, aa with the nativea of many parts of the continent, are invariably carried on the head; which, it is more thui likely, occasiona that dignified uprightness of form and statelinMs of walk ao often apoken of by thoae acquainted with the pleasing peeoliaritiea of the African female. The weight of a feaUier is borne on the head in preference to its b^ing carried in the huid; and it not unfrequently re- qnirea the united atrength of three men to lift a calabash of goods from the ground to the cbouldei of one; and then, and not till then, does the amazing strength of jhe African appear . The greater part of die inhabitants of Jenna have the hair of their heads and their eyebrowa shaven ; but the governor's mta- sitert and aervants wear their hair in the shape of a horse shoe, as a mark ofdia- linction. It is confined to the crown of the oead by large daubs of indigo, and, none of the people presuming to imitate it, anaweni the purpose of a liveiy. It ia the custom here, when a governor dies, fi>r two of his favorite wives to quit the worid on the same day, in order diat he may have a litde pleasant social company in a future state; but the late governor's devoted wives had no ambi- tion or inclination to follow their venerwble huaband to the grave, and went and hid ^mselves before the ftiueral ccoremonies were performed, and have re- mained concealed ever since, with die remainder of hia women. To-day, how- ever, one of these unfortunates, (she to whom our house belongs,) was disrav- eied in her hiding place at the present governor's, and the alternative of a poi- aoned ohahce, or to nave her heu broken bv the dob of the fistish priest, was of- fered her. She baa cfaoseu the former mode of dying, aa bein| the leas terrible of the twO| and baa come to owp yard to spend her last lionrs m the societf ef her faidifiil sUves. TImmni «dUiWa their mistress by the endearing name of mother. Poor eraatoraRyip «QiiqMP> Ibey learned her misfortune they imfped their apinning; iho gammtf^ (MTwMiai was also reUwpusbed; their sbeep» goats, and poultry, were aufiUvfilo (OM^atburge widtoutreatraint; and they abandon- ed themselves to the moat Moeiaive, most poiniaat grief ; but now die arrival of their miatreas has addedf if niimble, to tbeur amictioii. lliereisnottobefband in the world, perbapa, aa M| » 5j nor» truly aonrowful than a lonely, defenceless woman in tears; and onaoefc aa^maaionAs thia it may eaaily be conceived, die distress is more peeultariy catlti^ju|,beartthat could not be touched at a scene of thia nature, must be unfeelia|pi&fitdL Females have been coming all day to condole widi die oki lady, aid ttfUpep with her; ao that we have beufd nothiiig but BobbiBg and cryiiiyfioiaiiiprniiig till the aatting sun. Theprinci- pidmalea in die town have Uknoae bentobere to pay their iaat respects to their nrntreas; and so baa her gravedifl|Mr» wbohaa joat riaon firom prostrating him- aaif on the ground befinre her. MMnidutaDdingtbe repgeaeninHnaa and remon- fltfanoea of the prieat, and tba niayen of tim Tenacabla vietim to her gods for fbititade to undorgo the dnadnd oideal, bMr.naolntuw haa forMken Dur mare MCHARD AND JOHN LANDBK. 489 iian once. She has entered our yard twice to expire in the amu of her women, and twice has she laid aside the fatal poison in order to take another walk, and gaze once more on the splendor of the sun and the glory of the heavens; for die cannot bear the idea of losing sight of them forever. She is still restless and oneasy, and would gladly run away from death, if she durst; for that imaginary being appears to her in a more terrible light than our pictures represent him, with his shadowy fonn and fatal dart. Die she must, and she knows it; nevei^ theless she will tenaciously cling to life to the very last moment. Meanwhile her grave is preparing, and preparations are making for a wake at her funeral. She is to be ouned here in one of her oWta huts, the moment after the spirit has quitted her body, which will be asceilained by striking the ground near which it may be lying at the time ; when, if no motion or struggle ensues, the old woman will be considered as dead. The poison used by Uie natives on this occasion destroys life, it is said, in fifteen minutes. The reason of our not meeting with a better reception at Laatoo, when we dept there, was the want of a chief to that town, the last having followed the old governor of Jenna to the eternal shades, for he was his slave. Widows are burnt in India, just as they are poisoned or clubbed here ; but in the former coun- try, I believe, no male victims are destroyed on such occasions. The origm of tiu8 abominable custom is understood to have arisen from a dread on the part of the chiefs of the country, in olden time, that their principal wives, who alone were in possession of their confidence, and knew where their money was con- cealed, might secretly attempt their life, in order at once to establish their own freedom, and become possessed of the property. That, far from having any motives to destroy her husband, a woman might, on the contrary, have a strong inducement to cherish him as long as possible, the existence of the wife was made to depend entirely on that of her lord ; and this custom has been handed down from father to son, even to the present time. But why men also, who can have no interest to gain on the death of their prince, should be obliged to conform to the same rite is not near so easily accounted for. The present gov- ernor of Jeima must of necessity go down to the grave on the first intelligence of the demise of the King of Yarriba; and as that monarch is a very aged man, die situation of the former is not the most enviable in the world. Previous to her swallowing the poison, the favorite wife of the deceased chief or ruler destroys privately m\ the wealth, or rather money, of her former part- ner, in order that it may not fall into the hands of his successor. The same cus- tom is observed at Badagry also ; and although the king's son may be of age at the period of his father's death, he inherits his authority and influence only. He is left to his own sagacity and exertions to procure wealth, which con seldom be obtained without rapine, enslavement, and bloodshed. Whenever a town is deprived of its chief, the iidiabitants acknowledge no law — anarchy, troubles, and confusion immediately prevail, and till a successor is appointed, all labor is at an end. The stronger oppress the weak, and con* sttimnate every species of crime, without being amenable to any tribunal for their actions. Private property is no longer respected ; and thus, before a per- .natured fellow, we readily complied with his wish. The chief of Chaadoo, however, presendy ■ent a meweager to request the said precious head and legs ; aod to oim they RICHARD A^rD JOHN LANDER. 497 were finally committed by the disappointed eunuch, who could hardly forbear veeping on the occasion : these relics are extremely valuable as a charm. The chief sent us a goat and a quantity of bananas, a dish of pounded, or rather mashed yam with gravy, and a large basket of eaffas. These are a kind of pudding, made into little round ball^, from bruised Indian com, which is first boued to £e consistence of thick paste. From being made entirely of coarse iotirand water, they have an insipid taste when new, but when kept for a day or two, they become sour, and in tnis state arr eaten by the natives. There are Kveraldeep wells in the town, but most of them are dried up, so that water is exceedingly scarce, and it is sold in the market-place to the inhabitants. — We are daily accosted on the road with such salutations a i these : " I hope you go well on the path ;" " Success to the king's work;" " God bless you, white men ;" "A blessing on your return," &c. Wednesday, AprU 2dth. — Being in want of money we sent needles this mor< ning to the market to sell. It is a custom in Yarriba, that ailer a buyer has agreed to pay a certain sum for an article, he retracts his expressions, and affirms that he only promised to give about half the sum demanded. This has occasion- ed violent altercations between our people and the natives ; but it is an established custom, from which there is no appeal. The governor's mother was buried this afternoon at a neighbouring village, and the funeral was attended by all hU wives or women, as mourners. They were dressed in their holyday attire ; and look- ed tolerably smart The mourners exhibited no signs of grief whatever ; on the contrary, they were as lively as a wedding party. Attended by a drummer, they pawed through our yard four hours ago, on their return to the governor's house, which is only a few steps from ours, and there they have been singing and danc- infto the noise of the drum ever since. Thursday, April iUHh. — It commenced raining this morning at a very early hour, and continued with uncommon violence till between ten and eleven o'clock, when it suddenly ceased and we quitted Chaadoo. Before this, how- ever, the credulous governor, who in common with his people imagines that white meii influence the elements, paid us a visit, with a calabash of honey as a present, to thank us, he said, for the rain that had fallen, of which the country is greatly in want, and invoked blessings on us. The kindness of this good old man is remarkable. He never seemed weary of obUging us, regretted his ina- bility to do more, and solicited us very pressingly to remain witii him another day. We traversed a mountainous country, intersected with streams of excellent water ; and at noon entered a small but pleasant and picturesque village, which i« ornamented with noble, shady trees. Here we waited a very short time, but continuing our route, arrived towards evening at a capacious walled town colled Row, wherein we shall pass the night. The governor of the town is a morose, surly, and ill-natured man. He sent us only a few ban'anrs this evening, and a calabash of eggs, which were all stale and unfit to be eaten, so that our people were obliged to go supperless to bed. He ascribed the badness of his fare to extreme poverty ; yet his vanity exacted from our Jenna messengers the most abject method of salutation we are ac- quainted with. These men walked backwards from him several yards, to throw flirt on their heads, and with the dust and filth still clinging to their hair, they were compelled to address the chief with their faces to the ground. Our apart- ment unfortunately communicates with his, and the restless tongues of his nu- merous wives prevented either my brother or self from closing our eyes long' lifter sunset. In the centre of our yard grows a tree, round which several staves are driven into the ground. This tree is a fetish-tree, and these staves also fetish, and therefore we received a strong injunction not to tie our horses to either of them. Calabashes, common articles of earthenware, and even feathers, eg^- shells, and the bones of animals — indeed, any kind of inanimate substance, is ■nade fetish by the credulous, stupid natives; and like the horse-shoe which is still ■uiled to the doors of the more superstitious of the peasantry in Enghind, *hes« fetishes are supposed to preserve them from chosts and evil spiriti. It is sacri* lege to touch them, »im1 to ridicnle tham would be daimecous. 498 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. After passing through several towns of no very considerable importance and without any occurrence of much interest, our travellers on Tuesday the 4th of May, entered a town of prodigious extent, called Bohoo, which is fortified with a triple wall and moats. Without being exposed to the customary formalities, they say, we were immediately conducted to the re&udence of the governor! The usual conversation passed between us, and after we had returned to our hut, a bullock was sent us, with yams, bananas, and a huge calabash of new milk, which did not contain less than six gallons; and 0!ir people sat down to enjoy themselves in perfect good-humour. In the afternoon a message was delivered to us, signifying that the governor's " head minister" would be very glad to see us, and would t:hank us to visit him in the course of the day. But having experienced a relapsfe, my sufferings were such as to prevent my leaving the hut, and my brother was therefore obli- ged to go alone. He afterward informed me that a pleasant walk of rather more than two mil«!3 conducted him to the habitation of the minister, by whom he was very kindly received. The compliments of the day only were exchanged be- tween them ; and the numerous wives and large iamily of the master of the house, who are on these occasions generally exhibited to a stranger, having am- ply gratified their curiosity by an examination of his person, the interview ter- minated ; and he presently returned to our abode, atVer promising to visit the minister again to-morrow. Bolwo lies north-east of Acboro, and is built on the slope of a very gentle and fertile hill, at whose base flows a stream of milk-white water ; and behind which, on a rising ground, is the Falatah hamlet already mentioned. Its immense triple wall is little short of twenty miles in circuit ; but besides huts and gardens, it encloses a vast number of acres of excellent meadow li; id, on which bullocks, sheep, and goats indiscriminately feed. By the hasty view obtained of it, the town is not much unlike Kano ; but there is no large swamp like t hat which intersects the latter city. Bohoo was formerly the metro- polis of Yarriba; but about half a century ago, the reigning prince preferriM the plain at Katunga, the seat of government was transferred there, since which time Bohoo has considerably declined in wealth, population, and consequence, although it is still considered a place of great importance, and the second town in the kingdom. It is bounded on all sides by hills of gradual ascent, which are prettily wooded, and commands an extensive horizon. The land in the vicinity of the town presents a most inviting appearance, by no means inferior to any part of England in the most favourable season of the year. It seems to be duly appreciated by the Falatahs, so great a number of whom reside with their flocks in different parts, that the minister candidly declared he could not inform us of their amount. These foreigneis sell their milk, butter, and cheese in the market at a rea BICRARD AND JOHN LANDER. Illy within bounds, for as we rode out of the city we were astonished at its vast extent On the 8th of May our travellers set out from Bohoo on their way towards Katunsa, the metropolis of the kingdom of Yarriba, where they arrived on the I3th of the same month. Stopping at the town of Leoquadda, they put up in a yard in the centre of which was a circular enclosure without a roof, witLin which was an alligator which had been confined there seven years. It was fed with rats only, and generally devoured five a day. On approaching Katiinga, an escort was sent to meet them. As this escort came up, Lander sounded his bugle, at which the natives were astonished and plexsed ; but a black trumpeter, jealous of the performance, challenged a contest which terminated in his entire defeat He was hooted and laughed at by his companions for his presumption, and gave up the trial in despair. He hung down his head, remained silent, luok- ed extremely silly, and did not venture to put his horn to his mouth again until he imagined his defeat was forgotten. The leader of the escort is described as a strange looking, powerful fellow, of gigantic sbiture, with eyes large, keen, piercing, and ever in motion, with broad nose squatted on both cheeks, his lips immensely large, exposing a fine set of teeth; the beard was black, thick, grisly, and covering all die lower part of his face reached to his bosom ; the famous Blue Beard was nothing to him ; and in gazing on his features one would almost be incUned to believe that all the most iniquitous and depraved passions of human nature were centered iu his heart. Yet with sO unlovely and forbidding an appearance, he was in reality as inno- cent and docile as a lamb. He wore on his head a small rush hat, in shape hke a common earthen ware pan inverted ; his breast was enveloped in a coarse piece of blue ck)th ; from his lefl shoulder hung a large quiver of arrows ; and in his right hand he held a bow, which he brandished like a lance ; a short pair of trowsers covered his thighs, and fantastically made leathern boots incased hi^i feet and legs. His skin was of jetty blackness, his forehead high ; but his tre- mendous beard, which was slightly tinged with gray, contributed, perhaps, more than any thing else, to impart that wildness and fierceness to his looks which at first inspiried us with a kind of dread of our leader. Thus escorted, our travellers entered the gates of Katunga. As is the cus- tom, they staid under a tree just inside the walls, till the king and his eunuchs were informed of their arrival, and then, afler a wearisome delay, rode to the residence of Ebo, the chief eunuch, who, next to the king, was the most influen- tial man in the place. We found this personage, they say, a great, fat, round, oily man, airing him- self under the verandah of his dwelling. Other eunuchs of a similar appearance were sitting on the ground with him. Afler conversing together for a long time, we walked together to the king's house. Information of our coming had been previously sent to the monarch, and we waited with much patience for a considei able period till he had put on his robes of state. Meantime, to amuse us and beguile the hour away, the head drummer and his assistants, with the most benevolent intention, commenced a concert of the most bewitchuig melody ; and long drums, kettle drums, and horns were pk>yed with litde intermission till Mansohdi made his appearance, when all noises we re suddenly hushed, and we were desired to draw nearer to pay v.ur respects to his majesty. We did so afler the English manner, much to the entertainment and diversion of the king, who endeavoured to imitate us, but it was easy to perceive that he is but a novice in the European mode of salutation, bowing and shaking hands. We have no doubt that it was owing to the rusticity and awk- wardness of our address that Mansolah's risible facuhies were so strongly excit- ed ; but he laughed so long and heartily, and his wives, and eunuchs, and sub- jects of all sorts, joined him with such good will, and such power of lungs, that we were constrained to unite our voices to the general burst of kindly feeling, although if we had been asked the cause of such jollity and obstreperous mirtli, we should have been at a loss for an answer. Mansolah's headpiece was something like a bishop's mitre, profusely orna- mented with strings of coral, one of wliich answered the purpose of a riband, for it was tied under the chin to prevent the cap from blowing off. His tobe .MCHARD AND JOBNLANDSB. Ml of green rilk, crimson ailk damask, and green silk velvet, whieh wen dl i together like pieces of patchwork. He wore English cotton stockings, and neat leathern sandals of native workmanship. A large piece of superfine li^t blue cloth, given the chief by Captain Ciapperton, he used for a carpet The eu- noehs, and other individuals who were present at the interview, prostrated thea»> wives before their prince, agreeably to the custom of the country, and rubbed their heads with earth two separate times, retreating at some distance to perfbrm this humiliating and degrading ceremony, and then drawing near the royal per- mn, to lie again with their faces in the dust They saluted the ground also near which he was sitting, by kissing it ferventlv and repeatedly, and by placing each cheek on it Then, and not till then, with their heads, and faces, and lips, and breasts, stained with the damp red soil, which still clung to them, they were al- lowed to seat themselves near their monarch, and to join in the conversation. Two or three of the inferior eunuchs, not satisfied with the servile prostration, be- gan to sport and roll themselves on the ground; but this could not be effected without immense labour and difficulty, and panting and straining, for, like Sir John Falstaff, they could be compared to nothing so appropriately as huge hiUs of fleih. There they lay wallowing in the mire, like immense turtles flounder- ing in the sea, till Ebo desired them to rise. We observed, among the individ- oals present, a very considerable numbei of bald headed old men, their hair, or mtber wool, having most likely been rubbed off by repeated applications of earth, sand, gravel, filth, or whatever else may be at hand, when the prince hap- pens to make his appearance. The conference having ended, a kid, a calabash of eaffaa, and two thousand cowries in money were presented to us; and, cheered by a flourish of music, we laughed in concert, and shook hands with the king, and walked away towards oar own dwelling, which had been repaired and thoroughly cleaned out for our lole use. Here we lay down to repose our aching limbs. In the evening the king returned our visit, and immediately took a fancy to my brother's bugle horn, which was readily given him. He was vastly pleased with the present, and by smiles and words returned us many thanks ior it; said that he was quite delighted ; and that it made his heart glad to see us; hoped we should make our- wlvos comfortable while we remained in Katunga; shook hands, made a bow, ud, "smiling in heart and soul content," the sovereign departed, followed by a mite of wives, eunuchs, and other attendants. The Landers, having advised with Ebo, did not think it best to inform the king of their intended journey to the Niger, and only stated to him that the King of England, anxious to procure the restoration of certain papers which belonged to I countryman of theirs, who perished at Boossa about twenty years before, which papers were supposed to be in possession of the Sultan of Yaoorie, had de- spatched them thither for the purpose of obtaining the papers and taking them back to England. Mansolah, without expressing any surprise at this informa- tion, very promptly observed that he would send a messenger to Kiama, Wow- wow, Boossa, and Yaoorie, to acquaint the rulers of those provinces with their intentions to pay them a visit, and that on the man's return they should have leave to depart. Their stay at Katunga was comparatively pleasant : they were not disturbed by the jarring noise of women's tongues, which had annoyed and followed them It every stage of their journey from Budagry, since the apartments of the wives of Ebo, at whose residence they put up, were at some distance from theirs. Our male visiters too, they say, are few and select, and do not remain with us any very considerable time together. An order has been issued by the king, that if any impertinent individual troubles us at any time with his company when it is not desired, Ebo is at liberty to behead him; and no one shulliiave the effront- ery, says Mansolah, to tax the eunuch with injustice or cruelty in the perform- ance of his duties. This proclamation has hud the desired eti'ect; for dreading the even-handed Ebo, who is public executioner, as well as chief eunuch, the inhabitants of Katunga have hitherto repressed their curiosity, luid have confin- ed themselves to their own abodes. The city of Katunga was, at thia time, in a declining condition; whole streets 43 RICBAKD AND JOHN LANBl were almost deserted ; the walls were gone to decay ; and evety thing portend- ed approaching ruin. Still it was no inconsiderable city, as the following k- count of its markets may serve to show. A market is held daily in different parts of Katnnga, but twice a week it is much larger and better attended than on either of the other days. I visited one of the latter this morning, which is styled tlie " Queen's market ;" but as it ix shifted to another place towards evemng, it is then called the " King's market." The sellers were by far more numerous than the buyers ; and, on the whole, the articles exposed for sale by no means realized the expectiitions which we had formed of them. Among them we observed three or four different kinds of com; beans, peas, and vegetables in abundance; the mi-cadania butter ; ground or Guinea nuts; country cotton cloths, indigo, red clay, salt, and different varie- ties of pepper; besides trona, snuff and tobacco, knives, barbs, hooks, and nee- dles, tho latter of the rudest native manufacture. There were also finger-rings of tin and lead; and iron bracelets and armlets; old shells, old bones, and otiier venerable things, which European antiquaries would gaze on with rapture; be- sides native soap, little cakes of cheese and butter; an English common blue plate, a great variety of beads both of native and European manufacture, among the former of which we noticed the famous Agra bead, which at Cape Coaxt Castle, Accra, and other places, is sold for its weight in gold, and which has vain- ly been attempted to be imitated by the Italians and our own countrymen. Pro- visions also were offered for sale m abundance ; and besides beef and mutton, which were made up into little round balls, weighing about an ounce and tliree- quarters each, and presented not the most delicate or tempting appearance, we observed an immense quantity of rats, mice, and lizards, dressed and undressed, all having their skins on, and arranged in rows. I met with and purchased a very singular kind of stone in the market. The nativea informed us that it was dug from the earth, in a country called Iffie, which is stated to be " four moons" journey from Katunga, where, according to their tradition, their first parents were created, and from whence all Africa has been peopled. Ignorant of mineralogy, as I am of most other sciences, I am unac- quainted with the nature and properties of the stone alluded to, and therefore 1 grieve to say I am incapable of giving a scientific description of it. It consists of a variety of little transparent stones, white, green, and every shade of blue, all imbedded in a species of clayey earth, resembling rough mosaic work. Our travellers remained at Katunga from the 13th of May until the Sltt of the same month. During this time they had several interviews with Mansolah. The object of one of these interviews seems not a little singular. I was desired by a messenger this morning, says John Lander, to visit the king at his residence, and on my arrival there, found a great number of people assembled together. The object of this summons was explained by Lbo, who said I had been sent for to see tl at the present he (the eunuch) had received diould be shown to the people without any reservation whatever. It was ac- cordingly spread out on the iloor, together with the king's. Even a bit of Eng- glish brown soap, which we had just before given Ebo, was exhibited along with the other things ; for so great a degree of jealousy exists among the eunuchs and others, arising from the apprehension that one might have received more than another, that Ebo himself, powerful as he is, would dread the effects of it on his own person, should he be tbund to have concealed a single thing. They all, in fact, endeavour to disarm censure by an appearance of openness and sincerit}) . On Friday, the 21st of May, our travellers visited Mansolah for the last time. Instead of a visit from the king (to adopt their own words,) which we were yes- terday told he was to honour us with, we were requested this morning to repair to his residence. Accordingly, having first saddled our horses and packed up the luggage, between six and seven o'clock, A. M. we walked together to the royal premises. On our arrival we were introduced without any ceremony, into a private yard, wherein the king had been patiently waiting our coming for some, time previooely. He was rather plainly dressed in the costume of the country, namely, a tobe, trousers, and saudab, with a cap very much resembling in shape those which were worn by ekieriy ladies in the time of Queen Eliza- RICHAIID AND JOHN LANDBB. 508 beth, and ntill retained by some in the more remote parta of England. On hai right the eunuchs were reposing their huge limbs on the ground, with aevend of the elders of the people ; and his le(\ was graced by a circle of his young wives, behind whom 8at the widows of more than one of his predecessors, many of whom appeared aged. A performer on a whistle was the only musician present, so that, during a very long intei view, a little whistling now and then was the only amusement which the prince could afford us. A good deal of dis- cussion ensued, and much serious whispering between the monarch and his wives, in the course of which both parties quitted the yard two or three times to iioid a private conference, followed by the eunuchs with their hands clasped on their breasts. Mansolah at length scraped together two thousand cowries (about three shillings and sixpence of our money,) which he presented to tlie four men tiiat had accompanied us from Badagry and Jenna, as messengers, guides, &c., to enable them to purchase provisions on their journey homeward. This sum had been collected from the king's wives, each having contributed a portion, be- cause their lord and master did not happen to be in a liberal mood. Poor souls! they possess scarcely the shadow of royalty, much less the substance ; the exte- rior forms of respect which they receive from the male portion of the people alone distinguishing them from their less illustrious countrywomen. They are compelled to work in order to provide themselves food and clothing, and besides which part of the earnings is applied to the king's use. To effect these objects they are necessitated to make long and painful journeys to distant parts of the napire, for the purpose of trading. They have, however, the privilege of trav- elling from town to town without being subjected to the usual duty, and can command the use of the governor's house wherever they go. The boasted in- dustry of ancient queens and princesses in more classic regions sinks into noth- ing when compared to the laborious life wliich is led by the female branch of the royal family of Yarriba. IVIansoiah, afler some time, beckoned us to draw near him, for we were sit- ting at some distance on a bundle of sticks, and, with a most benevolent smile playing upon his wrinkled features, placed a goora-nut in the right hand of each o( us, and then asked our Christain names. "Richard and John," we replied. "Richard-ee and John-ee," said the king, for he was unable to pronounce our Christian names without affixing a vowel to the end of them, "you may sit down again." We did so, and remained in that position till we were both com- pletely wearied, when we desired Ebo to ask the king's permission for us to go home to breakfast, which was granted without reluctance. So, having shaken hands heartily with the good old man, and wished him a very long and happy reign, we bid him farewell for the last time, bowed to the ladies, and retired witii all tiaste to our hut. On leaving Katunga, our travellers' route lay through the towns of Lesquad- da, Atoopa, and Keshee. Besides their own, carriers from Ketunga accompani- ed them for the purpose of aiding in carrying the luggage. They all suffered severely with the weight of their burdens, particularly their own carriers, who were more heavily laden than those from Katunga. Our travellers, therefore, had recourse to an artifice for the more equal distribution of the burdens. We lightened (they say) the burdens on our own men, and distributed a portion of what we had taken out of them into the boxes &c. of their already overladen Katunga associates, without, however, permitting the latter to know any thing of the circumstance. Among the carriers was a very little man called Gazherie, (small man,) on account of his diminutive stature ; he was, notwithstanding, very muscular, and possessed uncommon strength, activity, and vigour of body, and bore a package containing our tent, which, though very heavy, was yet by far the lightest load of the whole. Conceiving that corporeal strength, rather than bulk or height, should, in this case, be taken into the account, a bag of shot, weighing 2d lbs., was extracted from Jowdie's burden, and clandestinely added to lus. The litde man trudged along merrily without dreaming of the fraud that had been practised upon him, till we arrived within a short distance of Les- quadda, when, imagining that one end of the tent was heavier than the other, he was induced to take it from his head, and presently discovered the cheat. He fi04 BICUARD AND JOHN LANDEB. was Diuch enraged at being thns deceived, and called hi« companions aroaad him to witneaa the fact, and aaid he was resolved to proceed no Tarther than Lesqnadda. The consequence of all this was, a combination was formed be- tween the carriers, and they after coming at Lesquadda, furiously resolved not to stir another step. We tried gentle means at first, but these having no effect, we resorted to theu* own mode of argument, namely, fierce looks, violent action^ vociferous bawling, and expres^^ive gesture, which intimidated them so much', that they snatched up their burdens without saying a word, and ran away with alacrity and good humour. An extraordinary spectacle presented itself on the way to Atoopa — a middle aged woman sitting on the road side, the colour of whose skin was I'alurally as bright a red as a piece of our own scarlet cloth. We were informed that she was in good health ; but we were in too great hurry to ask her any questions ; or take a nearer view of her person; indeed our,guide seemed much disinclined to go within a hundred yards of her. She was a most singular looking being. On arriving at Keeshee, the governor sent us a present of a fine young bullock, a quantity of yams, and more than a gallon of excellent strong beer. In the centre of the town there is a high stony hill, almost covered with trees of stunted Svwth, to which in case of invasion the inhabitants fly for refuge. As soon as ey have reached its summit, it is borne, say they, by a supernatural power, be- yond the clouds, where it remains till the danger is over. Some years have elapsed since this miracle last took place, yet the story is told with a serious belief of Its truth, and with the most ainusmg gravit) . A great number of emigrunts from different countries reside here. In no town have we seen so many fine tall men and good looking women, as at this place; yet several individuals of both sexes are to be met with who have lost the sight of one eye, and others who have unseemly wens on the throat, as large as cocoanuts. We likewise saw a cripple here for the first time, and a female dwarf whose height scarcely exceeds thirty inches, and whose appearance bespeaks her to be between thirty and forty years of age. Her head is disproportionably large to the size of her body ; her features, like her voice, are harsh, masculine, and un- pleasant in the extreme. It would be ridiculous to be afraid of such a diminutive thing ; yet there was an expression in her countenance, so peculiarly repulsive, unwomanly, and hideous, that on her approaching our hut, I felt a very unusual and disagreeable sensation steal over me. Descriptions of an elf, or a black dwarf in the Arabian Night's Entertainments, or modern Kuropean romances, would serve well to portray the form and lineaments of this singular little being. This is a market day here, and I took a walk this evening to the place where the market is held The crowd which gathered around me was very great. If I happened to stand still even for a moment, the people pressed by thousands to get close to me ; and if I attempted to go on, they tumbled one over another to get out of my way, overturned standings and calabashes, threw down their own- em and scattered their property about in all directions. Smiths welcomed me by clashing their iron tools against each other, and drummers by thumping violent- ly upon one end of their instruments. A few women and children ran from me in a fright ; but the majority less timid, approached as near as they could to catch a glimpse of the first white man they had ever seen. My appearance seemed to interest them amazingly, for they tittered and wished me welt, and turned about to titter again. On returning, the crowd became more dense than ever, and drove all before them like a torrent, Do^s, goats, sheep, and poultry, were borne along against their will, which territied Siem so much that nothing could be heard but noises of the most lamentable description; children screamed, dogs yelled, sheep and goats bleated most piteously, and fowls cackled and fluttered from among the crowd. Happy indeed was I to shelter myself from all this up- roar in our own yard, whither the multitude dared not follow. The widows of the deceased chief of Keeshee (this chief had recently died,) set apart a portion of the twenty-four hours to cry for their bereavement, and prav to their gods. They began this evening in the same sad, mournful tone which is commonly heard on similar occasions, all over the country. We asked our interpreter why the women grieved so bitterly. He answered quickly, " What RICRARD AXD JOHN LANDER. siys matter? they langh directly." So I auppose they cry from habit rather than from feeling; and that they cnn shed teard and be merry in the Mune breath whenever diey please. On one occasion the crowd of visiters, at this place, which thronged upon our iravellerB, was so great and ho irksome that tliey had recourse to Sie expedient of smoking them off', by kindling a fire at the door of their hut. It succeeded agreeably to their wishes. A party of more agreeable visiters, which came to see them, consisted of Fa- latah women and girls from the village ofAeba. These females, they my, are so modest and so retiring, and evince so much native delicacy in their whole beha- viour that they excited in us the highest respect. Their personal attractions are no less winning. They have fine sparkling jetty eyes, with eyelashes dark and jtlossy as the raven's plume. Their features are agreeable although their com- plexions are tawny. Their general form is elegant; thoir hands small and deli- cate ; and the peculiar cleanhness of their persons, and neatness of dress added tA these, rendered their society altogether as desirable as that of theirneighbours was disagreeable. On a second visit, these enga^ng female friends came with bowls of milk and foorah. This was in the morning. In the evening they came again with a few of their male companions, and remained a considerable time. Both sexes deported themselves in the most modest and respectful manner. It appears that the Falatahs inhabiting Acha, though very nnmerous are but one family, for we are told that their ancestor separated himself from his friends, relatives and acquaintances, and exiling himself forever from his native country, travelled hither with his wives and children, his flocks and herds. The sons and daughters of his descendants intermarry only among their own kindred ; and they are betrothed to each other in infancy and childhood. They appear to be a superior race. The governor of Keeshee told many wonderful stories of the towns under his Hway, his amazing power, great influence, and of the entire subjection in which his own people were kept by his own good government, of which latter, he gave a specimen by bawling to a group of children that had followed our steps into the yard, to go about their business. Every one in this country disj^lays thib ridiculous vanity; and in most of the towns we have visited, it was the hrst great care of their chiefs to impress on our minds an idea of their vast importance, which in many instances was refuted by their ragged tobes and squalid appear- ance. The governor was so old and innrm that he could not have many yean to live. We gave him a lotion for a swelled foot which greatly elated one or two of his attendants, and their animated looks and gestures bespoke hearts over- flowing with gratitude. The cause of this was soon explained. The next morning a young man, one of the number, visited us with a countenance so rueful, and spoke in a tone so low and melancholy, that his whole appearance was completely altered, insomuch that we were desirous to learn what evil had befallen him. He informed us that he would be doomed to die with two com- panions as soon an their governor's dissolution should take place ; and as the old man has already one foot in the grave, the poor fellow's sadnese was not to be woiidered at. When this same individual and his associates observed me giving the lotion to their master yesterday they imagined it would prolong his existence, and consequendy tlieir own ; and hence arose that burst of tieeling. The people here imagine we can do any thing, but more especially that we are acquainted with and can cure all the complaints and disorders to which man is liable. The governor solicited a charm of us to preserve his house from the efiects of fire and to cause hiui to become rich. On the day of departure from Keeshee, May 26th, we arose before sunrise, and having token a tiasty breakfast, went to pay our respects to the governor, and Uiank him ior his hospitality and kindness. On returning to our lodgings, we had the pleasure of receiving the morning salutation of our fair friends £e Falatahs on bended knee. Resolved to have another and a last chat with the white strangers, these females had come for the purpose of offering us two cala- bashes of new milk. This and former little acts of kindness, which we have received from these dark-eyed maidens, effectually won our regard, because we 43* 506 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDKR. ioMW they were diunterestedly given ; and the few minutes we had the happj. neee of apending in their company and that of their countrymen, redeeued many hours of Ratleasness and melancholy, which absence from our native country, and thoughts of home and friends, hut too oilen excite in our breasts. It was therefore not without a feeling of sorrow that we bade tliem adieu. For my own part, (says John Lander,) when they blessed me in the name of Alia and their prophet, and implored blessings on my head, and when I gazed upoa the faces of the simple hearted and innocent females who had so piously and fervently invoked the benediction, with the consciousness of beholding them no more in this life, my heart was touched with sorrow ; for of all reflections, thia is certainly the most melancholy and dispiriting ! " Ye who have known what 't is to dote upon A few dear objectR, will in ladueis feci Such partings break the heart tboy fondly hoped to heal !" Although we left Keeshee between six and seven in the morning, we were obliged to seat ourselves on a green turf in the outskirts of the town, and wait there till a quarter after nine, before the carriers with the luggage made their appearance. Here we were joined by the Borgoo fatakU, (a company of mer- chants,) and our ears were saluted with the hoarse, dull sounds oi' their drum, which was played by a ragged one-eyed Yarribean long after we were on our journey. A company of merchants trading through the country has always a drummer in their pay, who walks at the head of the party, and performs on his instrument continually, be the journey ever so long, for the purpose of anima- ting the slaves to quicken their steps. Our route lay through a vast and lonely forest, infested by bands of robbers, and in which there is not a single human habitation. My brother went imarmed before the fatalde, and travelled alone, while 1 remained behind to defend the carriers in case of necessity. He had already rode some distance in advance of U8, when about twenty very suspicious looking fellows, armed with lances and bows and arrows, suddenly made their appearance from behind the trees where they had concealed themselves, and stood in the middle of the path before the men with the luggage, who were so terrified, tliat they were preparing to drop their burdens and run away. My gun being loaded, I levelled it at Ihein, and had nearly discharged it at the leader, which intimidated them all so much, that they retreated again into the heart of the forest. When the people of Yarriba observe any one approaching them on the road whose appearance inspires them with apprehensions as to the honesty of his intentions, they fling oflf their loads without waiting the result of the meeting, and take to their heels without ventur- ing to look behind them. The robbers, therefore, when they saw our people, no doubt, expected to obtain an easy booty ; not anticipating to find a white man among them, nor thinking that our carriers would have mude a stand. We jooraeyed fifteen miles liirough this dreaded forest, which occupied us five hours and three quarters, owjng to the weakness of our horses and want of water, but above all, to the. oppressive heat of the weather, from which we aU suffered more or less. W' then arrived at the Moussa, which is a rivulet separating the kingdom of Yarriba from Borgoo. Having satisfied our thirst and bathed, we crossed the stream, and entered a little village on the northern bank, where we halted for the day. The crossing of the Moussa introduced our travellers into a country very dif- ferent from Yarriba — inhabited by a different people, who speak a difl'erent language, profess a different religion, and whose manners, customs, amusements, and pursuits are altogether difl'erent. The route now led towards Kiama, which even in the approach presented a complete change of scene. Instead of smiling plains and cultivated hills it consisted of a huge tract of mountain-forest, crowded with wild animals of every description, and infested with numerous bands of robbers. Kiama belongs to the Kingdom, or rather cluster of states, called Borgoo. The former mission had understood Borgoo to comprise also Boussa aiMl Wawa. This is stated by the Landers to be a mistake ; and indeed these coutitriea resemble much more the fertile plain of Eyeo or Yaixiba. Borgoo, mCBARD AND JOHN LANDEB. 507 OB the contrary, though divenified by beautiful and fertile valleys, u generally moantainoui and rugged, tenanted by a people bold and brave, warm bbth in friendship and enmity, and oAen addicted to lawless and predatory exploits. The narrative enumerates, as belonging to Borgoo, eight different states, among which Niki takes the lead. Its capitJil in deucribed as one of the largest cities in Central Africa, and the sovereign as having seventy other towns depen|bnt upon him; which, however, if we may believe the report made to our truBfers, pay no other tribute besides one beautiful maiden during the Ufetime of eJRFof their chiefs. While resting at a little village yet at some distance from Kiama, our travellers were met by an escort sent by the king to conduct them to the city. The musi- cal jingling of little bells (they say^ announced the approach of a body of horse- men, who in less than a minute galloped up to our hut, and saluted us one a(\er another with a martial air, by brandishina their spears, to our great discomfiture, within a few feet of our faces. To display their horsemanship the more eti'ectu- ally, they caused their spirited steeds to prance and rear in our presence ; and when they imagined we were convinced of their abilities, they dismounted to § rostrate themselves before us, and acquaint us with the welfare of their prince, etting out under the conduct of this escort, the path lay through a forest. At one place we remarked two immensely large trees, springing up almost close togeuer; their mighty trunks and branches were firmly twisted and clasped round each other, like giants in the act of embracing, and presented an appear- ance highly novel and singular. Ant-hills were numerous on the road ; and a few paces from it, we observed, as we rode along, little cone-shaped mud build- ings, erected by the natives for the purpose of smelting iron ore, which is iound in abundance in different parts of the country. At sunset we arrived at a village called Bcniktuny, which means in the language of the people a cunning man ; and found there three women waiting our arrival, with com and milk from the King of Kiama: this was very acceptable, for we had been without food thirteen hours. Although the sun had gone down on leaving Benikenny, tlie moon and stars iiupplied us with a cooler and more agreeable light ; and we journeyed on through the forest more slowly than before. In spite of our fatigue, we could not help admiring the serenity and beauty of the evening, nor be insensible to the deUcions fragrance shed around from trees niid shrubs. The appearance of our warlike and romantic escort was also liighly amusing. They were clad in the fashion of the East, and sought their way between tlie trees on our right and left ; but sometimes they fell in our rear, and then again dashed suddenly by us with astonishing swifhiess, looking as wild as the scenery tlirough which Uieir chargers bounded. The effect was rendered more imposing bv the reflection of the moonbeams from their polished spears, and the pieces of silver which are affixed to their caps, while the luminous firefly appeared in the air like rising and falling particles of flame. About 8 o'clock Kiama appeared before us, and in a few minutes we entered the city, and rode directly to the king's house He came out to receive us after we had been waiting outside a very short time, and welcomed us with much satisfaction and good-will. He is an elderly man, almost toothless, and has a beard as white as wool. We observed nothing remarkable in his dress or ap- pearance. His first question was concerning the health of our sovereign, and his second and last respecting our own welfare. He seemed to be exceedingly well pleased at seeing me agai't. We then took our leave, and were conducted by one of his slaves to a hut, or rather an assemblage of huts, adjoining his own residence. But they were not entirely to our satisfaction, for many oT them had only one aperture m each, which was scarcely three feet square ; so that we could not get into them excepting on our hands and knees. Ttiey were, besides, 10 very close and warm, that we found great difficulty in breathing ; and we prefered a hut which was cooler and better ventilated, though it had the inconve- nience of a thoroughfare. No sooner were we securely housed, than half a dozen of f^e king's wives introduced themselves with huge calabashes of sour milk, fried pancakes, and beef stewed in rice, the fint we have yet seen. Yari- 608 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. oufi coloured mats of excellent workmanship werr afterward brought for our use : and with thankful hearts and comfortable feelings w? lay down to rest. The day after their arrival at Kiama, the travellers, having selected a present for the king, repaired to his residence. The king's name was Yarro. Yarro, (we agaii adopt the words of their journal,) professes the Mohammedan faith, yet it is d^y to perceive the very lender acquaintance he has obtained of the ftreceptMl the Koran, by tht confidence which he still places in the religion of lis father?, in placing fetii^hes to guard the entrance of his houses, and a lorn (heir half-naked walls. In one of the huts we observed a stool of very curious workmanship. The forn) of it is nearly square ; the two principal sides are each supported by four little wooden figures of men ; and another of large di- mensions, seated on a clumsy representation of a hippopotamus, is placed be- tween them. These images were subsequently presented to us by Yarro, and we learned that the natives, before undertaking any water excursion, applied for protection from the hippopotami and other dangers of the river to the principal ngnre, which is represented as mounted on one of those creatures. This impor- tant personage is attended by his musicians, and guarded b^ soldiers, some ann- ed with muskets, and others with bows and arrows, who formed the legs of the stool. In an inner apartment we discovered Yarro sitting alone on buffalo hides ; and we were desired to place ourselves near him. The walb of this apartment were adorned with very good prints of our most gracious sovereign George the Fourth, his late royal brother tho Duke of York, Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington on horseback, together with an officer in the light dragoons, in com- pany with a smartly dressed and huppy looking English lady. Opposite to them were hung horse accoutrements ; and on each side were dirty scraps of paper containing select sentences from the Koran. On the floor lay muskets, several handsomely ornamented lances, and other weapons, all confusedly heaped to- gether by the side of a large granite stone used for pounding pepper. These were the most striking objects we observed in the king's hut ; adjoining which were others, through whose dhninutive doors Yarro's wives were straining their eyes to catch a glimpse of our persons. The following incidents may serve to illustrate e^tt farther t?ie manners and habits which prevail at the court of this prince. Our travellers say tiiey were obliged to violate the Sabbath, by cleaning and polishing a. sword and pistol, sent them for that purpose by the king, to be used at the up ^roachin^^ Mohammedan festival. Yarro shortly afterward sent us (they say) a turkey, and one of his women presented us with a roasted bac^ger, u quantity of y;: lis, &c., for the use of one of our people. This evening the king's wives unanimously bestowed h severe reprimand on their husband for neglecting to ofler the-n a portion of a bottle of rum which we gave hiin yester- day ; and they scolded so lustily that the nt;ise was heard outside the wall sur- rounding their huts, which led us to mako the discoverv. To appease the indig- nation of these ladies, and to reconcile tham to their lu ss, I presented them with a few beads and some other triftes ; but we much doubt their efficacy. We receive frequent visits from a number of Mohammedan maUams (priests) residing atKiaina. This afternoon they sent two young boys to pray lor us. The boys dropped on their knees, and recited the lesson that they had reen taught without committing a blunder ; but a few needles was the only recoin- pen<«e we thought proper to make tham, so that it is not likely their masters will desire any more prayers to be offered at the shrine of their prophet for Christians so illiberal ^nd irreligious. Of all the vices of which Mohammedan priests are guilty, (ana by all accounts they are not a few,) slander and defainr. (ion of charac- ter appear to be by fiir tlie most general. Never do we hear a m Viam speak of his neighbours in terms of common respect. By his account they are all tlie vilest creatures under the sun, not one escaping the hish of his censure. "Avoid that man," said a complacent and comfortable-looking old Mohammedan last night, pointing to one of his companions as he ({uitted the hut, (he had just blessed him in the name of Alia,) " for, believe uui, he will take every opportu- jiii/ of dec. ving yea ; aud if you go so far as to tnist him with any ol votur RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 509 property, he will cheat you of every cowrie." The venerable speaker bad a quantity of gilt buttons, nearly new in his possession, which we had given him to t>dU, for we are frequently obliged to make such shifts for a meal, and when his invective was finished, he aro ^e to take his leave : but the self-righteous priest had neglected, in the hurry of discourse, to secure a few but tons which he had Sarioined, for as he stood up they dropped from the folds of hrs garment on the oor. The man's confusion was immediately apparent, but we did not wish to push him further by increasing his shame, and we suffered him to go about his business, in the belief that the circumstance had wholly escaped our observation. Gilt buttons fetch a high price here (from two to three hundred cowries each;) and as we have a great quantity of tliem, it is likely from henceforth they will be of infinite service to us. V/omen use buttons to ornament their necks, fingers, and wris'^s; and they imagine that the brightest of them are made of gold. The celebration of the " Bebun Salah," or " Great Prayer day," by tlie Mus- sulmans of Kiama took place during our travellers' stay there. All the Mussul- mans with the king at their head repaired to a convenient spot about . mile witliout the city, 'fhe custom is to uet out about .^u.irise, but on this occaf^ion, owing to the threatening appearance of the weather, they did not assemble until between nine and ten o'clock. The wois'iipers arranged themsfieives in six lines or rows, the women forming the la^t, and sat down on as many ridges of earth, which had apparently been thrown up for the purpose. The chief mallam no sooner began a prayer, than the talking and noise of the multitude immedihteiy ceased, and the deepest attention seemed o be puid by every one, though the 8'jbstance of what he s: id could only be guessei' at, because it was m Arabic, which none of them understood. The ceremony much resembled that which was performed at Badagry ; and the forms which are generally practised, I be- lieve, on all public religious meetings in Mohammedan countries, such as ablution prostration, &.C., were observed on this occasion. The king, however, did not rise, iishe should have done, when the worshippers stood up, but satislied himself by uttering the name of Alia, and by simple prostration only. When the usual fokm of prayer had been gone through, the head mallam placed himself on a hillock, nnd for about five minutes read to the people a few loose pages of the Korau, wti^ch he held in his hand. While thus engaged, two priests of inferior order knelt ce.iide him to hold the hem of his tobe, and a third, in the same posi- tion, held the skirts from behind. Aller he hud finished reading, the priest de- wended from the hillock, and with the help of his assistants, slaughtered a L^heep which had been bound and brought to him for sacrifice. 'The blood of the am- n>al was caught in a calabasli ; and the king, and the more devo'.ei of hi - subjects washed their hands in it, and sprinkled some of it on the ground. This conclu- sion of the ceremony -..as announced by the discharge of a few old muskets; and with drums beating and fifes playing, the people returned to their respective homes. Most of them were smartly dressed in all the finery they could procure. About a hundred of the men rode on horseback, with lances and other weapong in their hands, which, with the gav trappings of their horses, gave them a respect- able appearance. In the afternoon, all th9i. "^becoming the Chief of Kiama. '•'= c: have here endeavoured, to the best of our ability, to describe an African . ;. ^-■"K^e ; but it is impossible to convey a correct idea of the singular and fan- wstic apppiiranoc of tlie numerous groups of people that met our view ou a!< sides, o/to describe their animation and delight ; the martial equipment of the soldiers and their noble steeds, and tlie wild, romantic, and overpowering interest of the wli' ' iiiusH. Hinging and dancing have been kent up all night, and the revellers will not think of retiring to rest till morning. The king visited us at our hut the morning before our depurture, attended by three or four of his younger wives. His object was to get sbmething from us; therefore we considered it no compliment. Like the King of Yarriba, he has seen all the articles which we have given to his people, but unlike uiai monarch, he has converted to his own use whatever pleased hiui best. From a present inteoded for his son, he took the only piece of clotli which it contained, and ■vhich we are unable to replace. He. then begged a little medicine for weak eyes; and was presented with a quantity of Epsom salts and a small syringe. He immediately began tiying experiments on the instrument by spirting water into the faces of Iub wives, who did not appear to enjoy the diversion so well as iumseir. 512 BICBARD AND iOHN UANDBR. On Saturday June 5th, our traveUera bade adieu to Keama, and bent their eourae through the town« of Kakafungi, Coobly, and Zalee to Booasa on the Niger. When they were about half a mile from Keama, lookinc behind them, they observed a great fat woman running aller them at her full speed. She' soon overtook them, almost breathless with exertion. We then found (they say,) that the object of her care was to present us with a bowl of new milk, which she had neglected to bring in time for us to drink before we set out! From the violence of her exertions, her whole person was thrown into the ut- most disorder imaginable. This woman.is a favourite singer to the king, and had supplied us with milk and provisions two or tliree days before our depart- ure, for which we gave her a few triHing articles in payment; these it appears had produced so sensible an effect upon her, that when taking leave uf us laot evening, she began to shed tears and sobbed aloud. This was now renewed, and we were obliged to spur on our hordes to spare our feelings. We were afterwards told tliat the woman's sorrow was only feigned in our presence for the purpose of obtaining a reward, and that she always has abundance of tears at command. On the way to Coobly, John Lander had a severe attack of fever, and on his arrivpJ there was exceedmgly ill. His brother Richard administered ten grains of cai 1'' jr<"r which he fell into a kind of stupor and an insensibility to sur- roundii.<- s, and though after a time his reason returned, he again soon be- came wort, d Richard expected every moment would be his last. He says, my brother, uuring the few mtervals he had from delirium, seemed to be aware of his danger, and entered into arrangements respecting his family concerns. At this moment ray feelings were of too painful u nature to be described. The un- happy fate of my late muster, Captain Clapperton, came forcibly to my mind. I hadf followed him into this country, where he perished ; I had attended him in his parting moments ; I had performed the lost mournful office for him which oiur nature requires, and the thought that I should have to go through the same ead ceremonies fur my brother overwhelmed me with grief. These sad ibrebodings, happily, were not realized. The disease took a new turn, and John was soon well enough to proceed on the journey which now lay towards Boossa. Before setting out the messengers arrived from Boossa, with a quantity of onions as a present from the queen, and with orders from the king to escort the travellers to the city of Boossa. An old woman applied at their lodgings for medicine Uiat would produce her an entire new set of teeth : or said she, " If I can only be supplied with two large and strong ones, I shall be satisfied with them." She was becoming rather impertinent when Richard Lander recommended her to procure two iron ones from a blacksmith, which displeased her so much that she went away in a pet. The city oi Boossa stands on the Niger ; it was supposed by Clapperton to be situated on m island in this river, but the Landers ascertained this opinion to be incorrect. On entering the city, they discharged their pieces as a signal tf their arrival^ and soon they were introduced to tlie king, whom they found sit- ting in an inner apartment in company with the midikie, his principal wife, or queen. They welcomed them to Boossa with every appearance of cordialiQr, •nd with rueliil countenances, gravely assuring tliem, that they had both been weeping in the morning for the death of Captain Chipperton whose untimely «nd they would never cease to lament. This king was regarded as the most powerful chief of Western Africa, as the Sultan of Bornou was of Northern Africa. The dress of the king and queen when they returned our travellers' visit af their hut, is thus described. The king wore a white cotton tobe over another of blue and white, a cup of red cloth, and leathern sandals of the same colour. The midikie was clud in a common check shirt; u plain piece of blue cotton was fas> tened round her head, wholly concealing tlie hair; u larger piece of the same kind was thrown over tlie lell shoulder, and a third tied round her waist, reached eo far as the middle of tlie leg. Her I'eet were bare, as were likewise her arms up to the elbow ; u brass ring ornamented each great loe, and eight silver brace- kta each wnst, the least of them weighing Uttle less than a quarter of a pound. RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. &n Beaides tfieae omamento, the queen wore a necklace of coral and bits of gold, tnd small pieces of pipe coral were stuck in the lobe of each ear. Boosiia 18 celebrated bm the place near which Park and his companiu.rw were destroyed, while sailing down ttie Niger. Our tiaveUers say, this river, here in its widest part is not more than a stone's throw across at present The rock on which we sat overlooks the siMit where Mr. Park and his associates met their un- happy fit' ; we could not help meditating on that circumstance, and on the number oi valuable lives which have been sacrificed in attempting to explore this river, and secretly implored the Almighty that we might be the humble means of setting at rest forever the great question of its course and termination. While at Boossa the Landers entertained hopej of being able to recover some of the effects and especially the journal of Park. They were presented with a tobe, which, it was said, belonged to a white man who came from the north many year:* before, and had been purchased by the king's father. It was made of rich crimson damask, and was very heavy from the immense quantity of gold embroidery with which it was covered. As the time when the late king was said to have purchased this tobe corresponded very nearly to the supposed period of Park's death, and as no other white man had been known to have come tiroai the north so far south as Boossa, the Landers believed it to be part of the spoil obtained from the canoe of that ill-fated traveller. Whether Mr. Park him- Eelfwore the tobe, or whether he intended it as a present to a native chief was uncertain- The chief who presented it. to them had never worn the tobe, nor had his predecessor, from a snperstitious feeling ; besides, observed the king, " it micht excite the cupidity of the neighbouring powers." 'fhe king, on application being made to lum for any books or papers of Mr. Park yet in his possession, returned for answer, that when Mr. Park was lost in the Niger, he was a very litde boy, and that he knew not what had become of his effects ; that the deplorable event occurred in the reisn of the late king's pre- decessor, who died shortly after; and that all traces of the white manl^ad been lost with him. This reply seemed to end the matter, but by repeating their re- qnest to the king, and by further inquiries, the Landers at length thought they had attained the object of their hopej. One afternoon, (they say,) the king came to see us, followed by a man with a book under his arm, which was said to have been picked up in the Niger after the loss of our countryman. It was en- veloped in a large cotton cloth, and our hearts beat high with expectation as die man was slowly unfolding it, for by its size we guessed it to be Mr. Park's jour- nal; but our disappointment and chagrin were great, when, on opening the book, we discovered it to be an old nautical publication of the last century. The title-page was missing, but its contents were chiefly tables of logarithms. It vfa»- a thick royal quarto, which led us to conjecture that it was a journal; between ibe leaves we found a few loose papers of very little consequence indeed ; one of them contained two or three observations on the height of the water in the Gambia ; one was a tailor's bill on a Mr. Anderson ; and another was addressed to Mr. Mungo Park, and contained an invitation to dinner, — ^ihe following is a. copy of it: — "Mr. and Mrs. Watson would be happy to have the pleasure of Mr. Park's! company at dinner on Tuesday next, at half-past five o'clock. " An answer is requested. " Strand, OtAiVoD. 1804." The king, as well as the owner of the book, looked as greatly mortified as our- selves, when they were told that the one produced was not that of which we were in quest, because the reward promised would not of course be obtained. As icon as our curiosity had been fully satisfied, the papers were carefully col- lected and placed again between the leaves, and the book as carefully folded in its envelope iis before, and taken away by its owner, who values it ao much as a Iwusehold god. Thus all our hopes of obtaining Mr. Park's journal or papers, io this city, are entirely defeated. 'The inquiry, on our put, has not been pros- «cnted without much trouble and aiixieQr, and some httle personal sacrifices 44 a«ess 514 RICBABD AND JOHN LANDER.' likewise, which, had they been ten times as great, we would gladly have made while a single hope remained of their being effectual. On the sSdi of June, onr travellers with their attendants embarked upon tb« river the great object of their perilous adventures, in a canoe, and proceeded up the stream to Yaoorie, the extreme point of their journey towards the north. Their object seems to have been both to conciliate the king ci Yaooiie, and to obtain intelligence, if possible, of the papers of Mr. Park. The Niger is degcri- hed as widening from half a mile, (its breadth near Boossa.) first to a mile, and at length to two miles, and passing through a rich and charming country. Beau- tiful, spreading, and spicy trees, adorned like a park, the sc(;ne on each Hide of the river ; com, nearly ripe, waved over the water's edge ; large open viilcge s appeared every half-hour ; and herds of spotted cattle were observed gruzini; and enjoying the cool of the shade. The apf :!arance of the river for several miles was no less enchanting than its borders ; it was as smooth as a lake ; ca- noes, laden with sheep and goats, were paddled by women down its almost im- perceptible current ; swallows and a variety of aquatic birds were sporting over Its glassy surface, which was ornamented by a number of pretty islands. The heat of the weather was very distressing until the approach of evening when the travellers landing, fixed their tent on a plot of rising com, and having nothing to 'jat went supperless to rest. On re-embarking the next day, they again beheld with feelings of admir.-:- tion, the Niger continuing the same delightf'bl and magnificent appearance. They say, we had proceeded only a few hundred yards when the river gradu- ally widened to two miles, and continued so as far as the eye could reach. It looked very ^much like an artificial canal ; the Y)anks having the appearance of a dwarf wall, with vegetation beyond. In most places the water was e.\trenie- iy shallow, but in others it was deep enough to float a frigate. During the first two hours of the day the scenery was as interesting and picturesque as can be imagined. The banks were literally covered with hamlets and villages ; fine trees, bending under the weight of their dark and impenetrable foliage, every- where relieved the eye from the glare of the sun's rays, and, contrasted withttie lively verdure of the little hills and plains, produced the most pleasing effect. Afterward, however, there was a decided change ; the banks, which before con- nstedof dark earth, clay, or sand, were now composed of black rugged rocks; large 8andb»nks and islands were scattered in the river;>which diverted it into a variety of litde channels, and eflectually destroyed its appearance. About eleven o'clock, dark clouds from the west foretold an approaching storm ; and our boatmen used their utmost exertions in endeavouring to reach a village, or some place of security, before it should burst upon us ; but in this hope'we were disappointed, for in a very few minutes it blew a hurricane, ac- companied by thunder and lightning of the most awfiil description, and the rain fell m torrents. It became, besides, so dark, that nothing could be clearly dis- tinguished at the distance of only a few yards. We were wetted to the skin in a moment; and our canoe was in danger of sinking as we came abreast of a little fishing village, on an island, close to the water's edge. We jumped on diore as soon as possible, and ran without shoes or hats into tlie first hut we came to for protection from the storm. Here our unlooked-for intrasion fright- ened away a poor woman, who rushed out of the hut as we entered it ; but we commenced throwing off our dripping clothes, and displacing a pot of M\ which was stewing over a few expiring embers, heaped up all the dry wood we could find. Not till then did we cuscover that our situation was fittle better than it had been in the canoe ; the hut had two large open doorways opposite each other, through which the wind 8we|>t the rain, and filled it with pools of water. This was too much for us, and sallying out immediately, half-drr^sed, we hurri- ed towards a hut which we perceived at a short distance ; but this was nc better han that which we had left, — all seemed alike ; and rashing back again through ,he pelfing rain, we regained our deserted hut, and resigned ourselves to all its E conveniences. Our people shortly afterward came up to us, quite benumbed ith cold and wet; ana, notwithstanding tbeur distress and onr own comfortless mdition, we could not forbear laughing at their comical aad ragged appear- HICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. $15 •nee. Meantime the hostesn and her husband, with several of the other villaf en, sommoned up resolution enough to visit, us; and by way of a peace-ofTeriof, tiiey brought with them firewood and a -mall quantity of provisions. This en- abled us to kindle two large fires in the hut, which, as the storm was abating, soon dried up the water ; but we were unavoidably obliged to lie down in damp clothes. My brother and I sat up during the best part of the night, for we found it impossible to sleep, not only on account of myriads of mosquitoes, but the groaning and snoring of men, the barking and growling of dogs, an incessant drumming at an adjacent village, and the startling roar of c lion, which wan prowling about our quarters near the whole of the night. The tempest was succeeded by a cool evening, and a remarkably clear night. In the morning, on leaving the village, we were followed to the beach by a few of its inhabitants, and when the canoe was pushed off at seven o'clock, they cheered us loudly. These peojile are harmless and good-naiured, but dirW in their persons and singular in their manners. Their language is different from that tipoken at Boossa. Most of the villages on the islands, as far as Yaoorie, it is said, are inhabited by the same race of people, and they are also scattered on the bunks of tlie river. The women daub their hair with red clay, but they are too poor to purchase many personal ornaments, and the men use none whatev- er. They appear to have the necessaries of life in abundance; they are partial to agriculture, and cultivate large portions of land whh com, rice, and onions ; besides which fishing is carried on by them on an extensive scale, and uumben of the men go three days' journey up the Niger to catch fish. Most of their huts are supported on clay pillars, which are wonderfully small ; or on stone slabs not inoie than an inch in thickness; The walls of the huts are only two or three inches in thickness; but these have no large doorways like that wmch we occu- pied; and instead of them, they are furnished with a small single aperture near the roof, to which their owners are obliged to climb ; and even then they can- not enter without great exertion. These huts approach nearer to the shape of a common English oven than any thing else we have ever seen. We had passed the island whereon we slept last night but a few minutes, and had just entered into the main river, when we came to a spot where it spreads again into branchei' and each channel was Uterallv filled with dangerous rocks, sandbanks, and low islands covered with tall rank grass. The appearance of them was extremely di||ieartening. We were conducted up the main branch of the river, but Tvere soon obliged to land with our people in order to lighten the canoe, which, after a deal of exertion, was Ufted over a ridge of rocks into deep- er water. During the greater part of the morning, indeed, our canoe was con- tinually striking against concealed rocks, or' running on hidden sandbanks, but sustained no apparent damage by the concussion ; the only inconvenience we experienced from it was the fatiguing one of being obliged to get out and in whenever it was found necessary. It therefore aftbrded us much pleasure to be landed, about two o'clock in the afternoon, on the left bank of the river, for wo were heartily tired of our morning's work, and felt highly gratified that it was over. At a short distance from the water's edge the country was thkkly studded with clu;3ters of huts, which all together are called the village of Sooloo ; and we lookup our quarters in a large one, which is nearest the landing-place. The inhabitants resemble very much the islanders ahready spoken of; they cultivate much land, and catch vast ]uantities offish ; but thougn they live well, they are clothed very indifferently. The only ornaments tliey wear are made of the back-bone of a certain species offish, which are tied round the loins and other parts of the body. Besides com, &c., the inhabitants also grow immense quan- tities of onions, and they have large storehouses full of these readj^to be exported to difierent parts of the continent. The price of an onion here is two cowries ; at Katunga tbrty, and at Badagry they fetch so high a price as a hundred cow- ries each. We were treated this afternoon with much hospitality by them, and they did all in their power to render oar short stay as agreeable as possible. 516 BICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. Both of as awoke in the morning rather unwell, which was most Kkely occaw sioned by our exposure to the tempest of Friday. The old chief of the villaire accompanied us to the water's edge when we quitted our hut for the pnrpo8<> of embarking, and enjoined the " king of the canoe" to be particularly careful of his charge. "Careful!" an^i^vered the man; "to be sure I will; do I not know that white men are more precious than a boat-load of eggs, and require as much care to be taken of them I" We entreated the same man a short time afterward to be more active and diligent in the management of his canoe, for he was rather inclined to be lazy, and sufiered every one to go before ours ; but he replied gravely. " Kings do not travel so liist as common men ; I must convey you along as slowly as possibFe." We had heard so unfavourable an account of the state of the river at one par- ticular place which we should have to pass, that our people were compelled to disembark and walk along the banks a considerable way, till we had naased it, when we took them in again. We found the description to be in nowise exag- gerated ; it presented a most forbidding appearance, and yields only to the stat't of the Niger near Boossa, in difficulty and danger. On our arrival at this formi- dable place, we discovered a range of black rocks running directly across the stream, and the water, finding only one narrow passage, rushed through it with Jreat impetuositv, overturning and carrying away every thing in its course. >nr boatmen, with the assistance of a number of the natives, who planted them- selves on the rocks on each side of the only channel, and in the stream at the stem of the canoe, lifted it by main force into smoother and safer water. The last difficulty with respect to rocks and sandbanks was now overcome, and in a very litde time we came to the termination of all the islands, after which, it is said, there is not a single dangerous place up the Niger. The river here pre> sented its noblest appearance ; not a single rock nor sandbank was anywhere perceptible ; its borders resumed their beauty, and a strong, refreshing breeze, which had blown during the whole of the morning, now gave it the motion of a slighdy-agitated sea. In the course of the morning we passed two lovely little islands, clothed in verdure, which at a short distance looked as charming as the fabled gardens of Hesperia ; indeed no spot on earth can excel them in beauty of appearance. These islands are inhabited by a few individuals. About eleven A. M. we landed at the foot of a little village on the east bank of the river, where our horses and men had arrived befor9rUs. Here a little milk was presented to us by a Falatah in the service of the Sultan of Yaoorie, and we rested under a large tree on hour or two, awaiting the arrival of carriers from the city of Yaoorie, who had been sent for yesterday by one of the messengers that had charge of our horses. These men arrived at the village between one and two o'clock in the afternoon, and we immediately mountwid and rode on- wards. We travelled over a steril country, which was gradually rising at 6very step, and abounded plentifully in game. "The weather was oppressively warm, and we were obliged to refresh ourselves by halting occasionally and resting in the shade. The soil, which at first was so indifferent and barren, improved greatly as we drew near Yaoorie ; and immense patches of land, cultivated with a vari- ety of corn, also with rice, indigo, cotton, &c., were visible on every side. Labourers were employed in these plantations, attended by a drummer, that they might be excited b^ the sound of his instrument to work well and briskly. On attaining the summit of a steep hill, we rode over a very narrow pathway, so much overhung by an impenetrable thorny shrub that there was not room for more than one man to walk. This led us to the wall of Yaoorie, and we en- tered the city through an amazingly strong passage, in which was an immense door covered with plates of iron, rudely fastened to the wood-work. We were almost exhausted with fatigue on our arrival, insomuch that we excused our- selves from visiting and paying our respects to the sultan, and we were conduct- ed to a convenient habitation', which had been prepared for us. The city of Yaoorie is the capital of Yaoorie, a large, flourishing, and united kingdom, under the dominion of an hereditary monardh, whose government ii RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 617 ab abflolnte despotism. The city is ofprodigious extent, and is supposed to be as populous 08 any other on the whole continent. Its wall is high and very ex- cellent, thong^h made of clay alone, and majr be between twenty and tnir^ miles in~circuit; and it h:is eight vast entrance-gates or doors, well fortified after the manner of the country. Between the clusters of huts in the city, there is a considerable qnantity of fertile land, which is left for cattle to graze on, or for the purposes of agriculture. There is a great varifety of trees within the walls of the city, consisting of the lime, the palm, the mi-cadania, and the date; but the latter, though it appears very luxuriant, never was known to bear fruit. The palm tree adorns the banks of the Niger, and increases in quantity the farther we advance np the river ; yet that variety of it which bears the cocoanut is no where to be seen, owing most likely to the distance from the sea. No estima- tion can be formed of the number of inhabitants, but it is surprisingly great. The sultan's residence, as well as the houses of many of the principsJ inhabit- ants of the city, are two stories in height, have thick and clumsy stairs of clay leading to the upper apartments, which are rather lofty. The principal part of the houses are built in the circular or coozie fashion. The natives of Western and Central, and we believe, also of Northern Afnca, moisten the floors of their hots and the inside of their walls with a solution of cow-dung and water, two or three times a day, or as often as they can find the materials. Though disagreea- ble to the smell of a European, this keeps the interior of a dwelling as cool aa it is dark. The inhabitants have f ome few manufactures, and grow indigo, tobacco, on- ions, different kinds of grain, and rice of a very superior quality ; have horses, balloelcs, goats, &c., and are industrious, yet they are poorly clsid, and discon- tented with their condition. The higher ciass of women wear their hair plaited very ingeniously, and dyed blue with indigo ; theur lips are stained yellow and blue, which gives them an inexpressibly odd appearance ; and their eyes are blackened with powdered an- timony, or something of the some nature and properties. The use ofhennahis « general at Yaoorie as elsewhere ; the more opulent females jnake use of diiB most beautiful dye in profusion ; they simply apply the pounded leaves of dw tiantto the teeth, and to the finger and toe-nails ; for the latter i*. is made into a ind of poultice, and in the evening is put on those parts, and remains till next morning. The poorer sort of females, from necessity probably, make ose of neither of these ornaments, and save tattooing, they have no personal embellisb- ments whatever. Before visiting the sultan, the chief Arab of the city, or the sultan's prime nunister, came to pay his respects to the travellers. He is desr-ibed as a very old man, as dark as a native, and dressed in the costume of the « ')autry. Hu beard was long, and white as snow, and a singular tuft of hair which was direct- , ly under the lower lip did not look much unlike the tail of a white moiue. Though toothless, the old man was yet very communicative — and intielligent. On the evening of the day after their arrival, the sultan sent the travellera a bollock, a fine large sheep of a peculiar species, the handsomest, they say, we ever saw; a great quantity of milk, and several hundred weighf of rice; and the next evening they received a large turkey and a bowl of rice from the chief of the Arabs. The following is Lander's description of their first visit to the saltan, which took place on the second day after their arrival : — This evening, by desire, we went to pay onr respects to the sultan. We t from 9occatoo. My reply to him was, that I iiad been told he was the greatest monarch in the country, and therefore I should have felt ashamed to have visited him with the trifling present which I had to offer, as he might consider it an in- sult to his dignity. A frown of disapprobation settled on his countenance at hearing this, and he sharply rejoined, that he was perfectly well acquainted witli the nature and value of the presents which had been made to the various chiefs I had visited ; but that if I had nothing to otfer him, it was my duty, and should have been my first care, to have paid my respects to him at Yaoorie. Here the conv .-ation was abruptly ended; the sultan was more than half-inclined to be a ..gry with us ; and we were not at all sorry to be reconducted tp the open air. ' The character of the sultan is much like that of most of the chiefs in Africa. He manifested the same childish fondness for presents, and resorted to the same EeVty stratagems and tricks to obtain them. He received his presents very cold- er, probably, with the view of getting somethmg more, purchased goods of the ttuvellers, and then neglected payment, under the pretence that they asked too much for them, and on one occasion when having made application for the sale of some powder and red cloth, they were sent to him with a message that he was at liberty to give what he thought proper for them, he kept the goods without making the slightest acknowledgment, and also sent in the evening of the same day to beg a few needles. He deferred giving permission for their departure from day to day and week to week, under a variety of nonsensical excu.ses, with the intention of detaining them at Yaoorie, until he had drained them of every thing they had. One of the inducements urged upon the travellers for their longer stay, and as related in their own "^'ords, was as follows : He has made us a present of a quantity of worthless feathers, which he had caused to be plucked from the body of a live o.Urich ; and because he entertaiiied an opinion, that if others were added to them they would altogether form a very acceptid»le present to our gracious sovereign, he informed us that it would bie necessary we should wait till such time as the ostrich should regain its plumage, in order for that part of its body which had not been previously plucked to un- dergo a similar operation; for the weather, he asi^erted, was much too cold for the bird to lose all its feathers at one and the sai le time. And further to en- courage their growth, he would order that two tho isand cowries* worth of bat- ter (alM>ut twelve pounds weight) should be diligeutijr rubbed into the skin of the animal. This money has actually been deducted by the sultan for this express purpose from the sum which he was indebted to us ; because, he said, he did not approve of paying for the butter from his own pocket. The sultan was guilty of similar tricks towards his own subjects, as well as towurda most of the merchants who visit Yaoorie. He however at last, after complaining sadly of his poverty, begged our travellers to accept a female slave in lieu of the money he owed tliem, and which he declared his inability to pay. After a good deal of hesitation, they took the girl, and she became the wite of (me of their attendants. BICHARD AND JOHN LANDKB. 619 The saltan*! daughters, (say our travellers,) are very numerous ; and in ae* cordance with the usual custom of the country, we have been obliged to make them a present of a button, or a string of beads, or some such tride. Many of these ladies are not very young, tor tney have passed the meridian ol'lile ; bat DOtwittiatanding their seniority, tliey have had bitter disputes uni quarrels with their sisters lor ihe fancied better place which ttie latter have in our good graces, and the consequen. kinder treutineut wtiich ttiey have experienced at our hands. A breach ii tiius made in the att'tiut.ons of the royal sisters towards each other, ' and it may be years before domestic harmony is re^stabUshed among them. One or otiier of these females complains to us every day of having been eugar ged in wrangling or lighting witn a sister, on the score of jealousy ; and we are obliged to master all our patience and condole with them in their little misfof' tunes, without, however, having tne ability to relieve them. Two or tiuee of tnese daiiguters are our daily visiters; and they trifle away a good deal of time in our company. Tney sometimes bring with them a pleasant intcxicating liquor called boota, (a kind of beer,) which Uiey otfer us to drink ; but thiy contrive to get tipsy with it ttiemselves. These ladies are occasionally go troublesome that we are obliged to frighten them away with our pistols. The heir apparent on one occasion paid t.ie travellers a visit, but the chief of the Arabs entering, and seeing tne young man in conversu.ion with them. Deemed surprised and displeased, and immediately ordered the young man to quit the apartment with his suite, which order the prince instantly obeyed, with- out a syllable of complaint at the peremptory command. Tne Arab afterwards on being solicited tor an explanation of such arbitrary conduct, said that it was done in order to prevent the young man from soliciting poison which he might employ in the destruction of liis fataer's litii. The travellers used every means while at Yaoorie that might possibly enable them to discover the papers of Park, or wtuch might disclose additional facts in regard to his melancholy late. Park made his voyage down the Niger at about the same sea'ion of the year— > the heat was excessive — the river low, and oi course presenting the rocks and islands in its channel to obstruct his progress. He must have had a thousand difficulties to encounter ; his canoemeu, wuo in all probability were his slaves, were said to be cnained to the canoe, in order to prevent their running away ; hia pi ot was unuc juaia.ed wit.i the river any further than Yaoorie, and was theretoie discharged there, wnile Park witli a companion, and three white boys, continued their voyage down the iNiger, without any person whatever to point out the safest channel, or warn them Oi' their danger. When the accident hap- pened at doossa by whish taey lojt their livesi, it is said they preferred being drowned to avoid ,ia they imagined, a more dreadful death. The caief oftne Arabs informed our travellers, that Park did not visit Yaoorie, but remained in his canoe, and despatched a messenger in his stead to the sultan with a smtable present. The chiei of tae Arabs was sent to Park with presents in return, and by his descri^j.ion of Park's dress, he must have worn the laced tobe wnich tne travellers outainud at tiooisa. He was said to have been drown- ed in d)is same dress. The Arab informed the Landers that he had in his pos- Kssion a cutlass and a double-harteUed gun which was part of Mr. Park's present to the sultan. Tney expressed a wish to look at toese weapons, and they were immediately sent lor. Tne gun was very excellent, and handsomely mounted ; and we odered our own lowimg-piece in exchange lor it, which was cheerfully agreed to. After repeated applications to the sultan for the lost papers of Park, without obtniaing any satisfactory reply, the travellers i^eut one of their attendants with a message that they wished to receive a tiuiU and decisive answer in regard to the papers, which wt:re the sole object of their v/sit, and that they wished to quit Vaoorie immediately. This bold step seemed to startle the sultan, and he in- itantly despatched tne old Arab lo iuiorra them that "he declared to God, in the moat solemn manner, that he had never had in his post>e8sion, nor seen, any 'books or papers of the white travellers that perished at Boo.sa." Toe Anm likewise assured us that we were at liberty to proceed on our journey whenever we ^ould think propier. 520 mCHARD AND JOHN LANDKK. ' Thus, notwithatanding all the falae hopes which the sultan artfally held oat to lis that Mr. Park's papers were actually in his possession, his letter to Captain Clapperton, which exprennly stated this to be the case, and the pitiful shufflinf which he has diHplaycd to keep us so long in suspense with refipect to any tme information, it appears, without doubt, that he has not, and never has had, a single book or paper in the Cnglirth language. His only motive for the das- tardly conduct he has displayed could have been neither more nor less than the hope of getting us into his power by misrepresentation and falsehood, in order to obtain some of the European articles which we had in our possession. The sultan afterwards sent to inform us that he should be occupied three days in writing to the King of England an explanation of his conduct with respect to Mr. Park's papers ; and he would therefore thank us to remain in Yaoorie tiU the expiration of that period. At last, on the first of August, after having been detained at Yaoorie about five weeks, shut up in narrow and gloomy apartment", annoyed by night by my. riads of gnats, cockroaches, black ants, and bats, and vexed by day by human visiters, whose society was scarcely less tolerable, the travellers received the joy. fill intelligence that they were at liber^ to depart. Accordingly they paid their respects to the king, took their leave of him, and the nextntoming were on their return to Boossa. On Monday, the 2d of August, our travellers left Yaoorie, and proceeding through the river Cubbie, returned, down the Niger, by a different channel, to Boossa. Their departure from the city is thus described : All was hun-y, bustle, noise, and confusion at a very eariy hour iq the mominf , in getting our things ready for starting ; but in spite of our exertions we had to wait a long time outside our house, atler the beasts had been laden, and our peo- ple had their burdens on their heads, for the sultan's long-expected letter to oar most gracious sovereign. A mallam was at length perceived hurrying -wards us with it ; and after him came, mounted on a large bony horse, and mely well dressed in the costume of his country, the venerable Arab chief, our us with his company a little way on our journey. His anp-^arance uua lately and patri»rchal in the extreme. But this crafty old man wos not our fr> und, for he had used us deceitfully, and misrepresentecf us and our goods to iiis master; and we had enjoyed an innocent kind of revenge, in administering to him, after repeated applications, a powerful dose of medicine, which, harmless in its effects, hod yet been very troublesome to him. Indeed it was not till we had " jalaped" the sultan, his sister, and all the royal family, that we were permitted to take onr farewell of Yaoorie. The city was literally covered with water on our passing through it, and the deep hollows formed by the rains were very numerous, and dangerous by being invisible ; neverth'^less, with care and patience, we all got outside the gates in safety. It is pleasant, very pleasant, after an imprisonment of five weeks in a close, darii, aiul unwholesome chamber, subject t(» a^ery kind of inconvenience and much anxiety, to be set at liberty; to know and feel that one is free; to admire again the beauties of God's creation, and enjoy once more the cheering fi'esh' ness of the country. It is only in health that such feelings can either be excited or indulged. Objects ever so charming are looked on with indifference by an invalid. For our parts, we had entered Yaoorie in sickness, and had suffered much in that city ; but we left it in all the strength and vigour of health. During our residence there, the growth of vegetation had been astonishingly rapid ; the face of the country wore an aspect «ntirely different and improved; the trees and shrubs had put on r. greener and lovelier "livery;" the grasses, stunted as they were before for want of moisture, had sprung up to the surprising height often or twelve feet ; and the com and rice had grown up with no less vigour. Owing to the reputed badness of the path, that by which we had entered Yaoorie was rejected for a more northeriy one, leading in almost a direct line to the river Cubbie. About a mile or two from the walls of Yaoorie the old Arab stopped suddenly, and we imitating his example, he offered up a short though animated Mohammedan prayer for our success, and bidding ua an affectionate farewell, he turned his horse aboat and returned to the city. »► HICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 531 In the anticipation of journeying to Guarie, we had purchased an am ofAli, the Arab; and this animal, as well as the horses, suffered greatly front the attacks of a species of large fly, which is to them by day what mosquitoes are to man' kind by night; and this evil, combined with the ru^gedness and inequality of the rood, which was intercepted by deep and rapid rivulets, caused us much delay and annoyance. About mid-day we arrived at the walls of a pretty coa'^iderabU town, called Guada, and halted near a small creek of a river flowing from Cab- bie, and entered the Niger a little lower down. Here, as soon as we had taken I slight refreshment, we Mcnt our beasts across the Niger to proceed by land to Boossa, and embarked in two eanuen, which were each paddled by four men. These canoes are about eighteen or twenty feet long, and ibrmed from a sincle log of wood, unlike those of Coossa. When we got into the main body of uie Cnbbie river, the canoemen kept us exposed to the sun for a consklerable time, waiting the arrival of two companions, because the men with whom we had been supplied were unable to manage both canoes by themselves. Though we entreated the four men to go a little way with us, or at least to convey ns into a cool and shady place, which we pointed out to them, for protection from the iiui'b rays, they would not hearken to us ; we (bund scolding, tiireut-), and suppli- cation to be all equally unavailing ; they maintained the same calm, yet mortify- ing placidity of countenance, than which in such a case nothing can be more vexing. At length we were fain to hold our peace, and patiently resigned our- lelves to the inconvenience. The Cubbie river falls into the Niger about four miles from the creek where . we had embarked ; and on entering the Niger, we found it running trom two to three miles an hour, and with trifling labour on the part of the cauoenien, we could have journeyed very rapidly: but though we hadtuken on board their two companions, the whole of them were so obstinately ind lent, that we travelled very slowly indeed, insomuch that we did not expect to arrive at the appointed halting-place for the night. The canoes, however, were passing along almost close to the shore, and we saw a woman at the water's edge who had a quantity of cheap country beer for sale, and thinking it might animate the men to a little more exertion, we purchased as much as they could drink, which in a few miu- ntes completely metamorphosed them. The meekness, innocence, and couipo- tore of their listless countenances soon passed away ; their heavy eyes sparkled with fire and animation; they trembled all over with anxiety to display their itrength, dexterity, and vigour ; and each being emulous to rival his companion, they snatched up their paddles, and by their united efloits ti.e canoes glided through the water with inconceivable velocity, even to the dangirof up.et.iug. Thus we proceeded down the river till the aun had set, and the moon was shin- ing beautifully on the water, as we drew near to a small Cumbrie village on the borders of the river, where we landed and pitched our tent. The thermometer tCKlay has varied from 7b° to Q-^"*. Tuesday, August 3d. — Arising at an early hour, we shot a partridge and Gaine(|-fowl, and breakfasted in the open air, under the intense scratiny ef a hundred black eyes; then, striking our tent, vi-i> lastened to the canoes which we had lefl secured, and embarked on the river while it was yet moining, and the aircool and pleasant. Though the lowering appearance ot the finnament seem- ed to betoken a violent storm, the bfnck clouds dispersed as the sun gathered atrengd), and he burst out on us, an hour after our departure, with peculiar heat and splendour. On all the borders of the numerous branches of the river, as well as on its nnall islands, vast quantities o/'coru were glowing ; and it being near the time ot harvest, it was nearly ripe, and waved over the water's edge very prettily. Plat- forms were every where erected to the height of, or rather above the com, which grows as high as ten or twelve feet. People were stationed on these to scare away the numerous flights of small birds, which do great mischief, and would, without this precaution, destroy the hopes of the cultivator. A boy or giri, and in many cases a woman with a child Kt'her breast, and even a whole family to^ gether, we observed on the platforms, amusing themselves in this manner, with- out the slightest diade or covering of any kind to shelter them from the fiercensM #-^ 522 RICHARD AND JOBN LANDER, of the Bunbeams. Standing erect and motionless, many of them looked like statues of black marble, rather than living huni;in beings; but others, particular- ly the women, disregarding their duty, were industriously employed in plaiting straw, supplying the wants of their children, manufacturing mats, dressing pro- visions, &c. In order tb<^ more effectually to frighten away the birds, several of the watchers were furnished v \ih slings and stones, in the use of which they seem to be very skilful ; beside these, pieces of rope were fastened from the platform to a tree at some distance, to which large calabashes were suspended, with holes in ihem, through which sticks were passed, so that when the rope is pulled they make a loud clattering noise. The calabashes are sometimes fasten- ed whole to the rope, containing about a handful of stones, which answer the purpose of making a noi^e when put in motion, as well as the sticks. To this ts oflen added the hallooing and screaming of the watchers, which is dismrj enough to frighten an evil spirit, and it rarely fails to produce the desired effect. The inhabitants of many of the numerous walled towns and open villages on the banks of the Niger, and also of the islands, we find, are for the most part Cumbrie people — a poor, de.'ipised, abused, but industrious and hard-working race. They are but too often oppressed and persecuted by their more fortunate aud powerful neighbours, who affirm that they are fitted by nature onlv for slaves, and are therefore invariably treated by them as such. The Cumbrie also inhabit many parts of Houssa and other Countries ; thay speak different languages, but they have all the same pursuits, superstitiuni^ amusements, and peculiar manncrA, to which they firmly and scrupulou.sly ad- here, both in good and bad fortune, in sickness and in health, in freedom and slavery, at home and in foreign countries, notwithstanding the scorn and derision to which it subjects them ; and they are known to cherish and maintain them to the end of life, with as much pertinacity as the Hebrew does his faith and na- tional customs. Inheriting from their ancestors a peaceful, timid, passionless, incurious disposition, they fall an easy prey to all who choose to molest them ; t'^^y bow their necks to the yoke ol'^ slavery without a murmur, and think it a matter of course ; and perhaps no people in the world are to be foimd who are Ies3 susceptible of intense feeling and the finer emotions of the human mind, on being stolen away from their favourite amusements and pursuits, and from the bosom of their wives aud families, than these Cumbrie people, who are held io sue! general disesteem. Thousands of them reside in the kingdom of Yaoorie and Its province of Cngarski ; and most of the slaves in the capital have been taken from among them. The tribute, or rather ^rent, which they pay to the sultan for the land they cuhi- vato, consists of a quantity of corn, about the size of a bundle as much as a man can carry, for every plot of land, whether it be large or small. When, howevtr, the harvest fails, thev are i^t liberty to give a certain nnmYp/r uf cowries in lieu of the accustomed duty of com. If the poor have no ricans of paying their irent when it becomes due, the sultan immediately despati^hes a body of horse- men to their villages, with a command to seize and carry a^ray as many of the people as tliey may think proper. Ii sometimes happen/), however, thai the sul- tan of Yaoone pulls the reins of oppression with too tight a hand ; and as cow- ards, when driven to desperation, often giv" specimens ct extraordinary cour- age and resolution, so the negligeni and desi>ised Cumbrie, writhing under the lash of injuries which they have never desen^ed, t'efend themselves with extra- ordinary determination and bravery, and r-ot unfi'equently come off victorious from the conflict. The benefit which results to them from these advantages is an exemption from the payment of rent for two or three subsequent years. During our residence at Yaoorie, an expedition despatched by the sultan for the above purpose, returned unsuccessful from Engarski. The most unfa- vourable trait in the character of the Cumbrie is the extreme dirtiness they display in their habits generally, from which not one of them appears to be free. They are generally con&.dered good agriculturists and expert fishermen: they grow abundance of corti and onions, but a great part of ttie former is disposed of to the natives of Boossa and Yaoorie, to whose monarchs they are MibjMtt Most of them are rather sloveoly about their persons, and make use of f««t orM' RICBARO AND JOHN LANDEH. 533 iMnts, and even these are of the commonest description. They bore immense holes in the lobe of the ear for the admission of bits of fiie colourc I wood ; and the soft part of the septum of the nose is pdrforated m hke manner, through which is thrust a long piece of blue glass. When the femdes have a mind to appear with unusuifi smartness and effect, a crocodile's tooth is inserted dirough both lips, and projects upwards as far as the npse. These useless, unbecoming, and singiilar ornaments, impart to the countenance an unnatural and barbarous expression, which is very far from agreeable, and produces an unpleasant and Sinful emotion in the mind of the beholder. In our intercourse with the Cum- e, they appeared mild, innooent, and even amiable m their manners ; and thev behaved to us with ali the civility, hospitality, and kindness of their natures, untinctnred by insinceritv or lukev.armness. The door-way to the deeping ^'uts of these people, to which we alluded on our passage up the river, is the only opening they nave, and is closed by a mat which IS suspended inside. They have ro steps to enter by, but scramble into it as well as they can. Tht; common coozie hut is use J by them for ordinsry pur- poses, such as cooking, &c., during the day, but never'at night. These sleep- ing huts are about seven or eight feet wide, they are nearly circular, are made of clay, and thatched with the palm loaf; they are elevated above the ground so 88 to secure the inmates from the annoyance of ants, snakes) and the wet ground, aild even for protection from the alligators which prowl about at night in search if prey. We were informed of instances where *hese creatures have carried off the legs and arms of natives, who have incauti')usly exposed themselves to dieur attacks. The huts will hold about half a doziin people. Sometimes the pillars supporting the huts are walled round, but this is not often done. The natives frequently kill the alligators by means of a heavy spear about ten kei long. One end is furnished with a heavy piece of iron-wood to give it force, and the other with a sharp-pointed barbed iron. It is attached to the bow of their canoe by a piece of grass rope, which is fastened to the upper end, and is a formidable weapon. A smaller spear of the same description is used by Ihesa people in killing fish, in which occupation they are very expert. Aa we proceeded down the Niger by a ditferent channel from that by which we had ascended it to Yaoorie, we had fresh opportiunities of remarking the iBore striking features on its banks. The river, as might naturally have been expected, is much swollen, and its current more impetuous than when we passed Bp on our voyage to Yaoorie ; and many of the stones and rocks which then umoyed us are now under water, and completely hidden. In tlie earlier part of the evening we landed at a small Cumbrie village, and our canoes were pulled upon a sandy beach for the night in security. The thermometer has been at 95^ l»day. Wednesday, August 4th.— The inhabitants of the village wherein we slept laat night had nothing to offer us to eat, either then or this morning ; but we had the good fortune to shoot a partridge, and we had it dressed for breakfast. Bat h. was, like many others, a most unsavoury repast, for we had nottiing to eat with it, not even a little salt; the people of the village, as well as most of their country- men, making use of a quantity of woodashes instead, which contains saline par- ticles, because salt is too expensive an article for these 8i>-\ple villagers to pur^ chaoe for their own consumptioL. We had every thing conveyed to the canoes at an early hour, and at seven o'clock, A. M., we w ere once more upon the Niger. "The canoemen, as well as our own people, had forecast and contrivance enough to supply themselves with a few ears of Indian corn last night, which they Uiought Uiemselves warranted to pluck from a field at no great distance from their sieeping (quarters ; yet all of them complained of hunger this morning, and led *he village in a very ill-humour. Tc satisfy their appetites, our canoes were p itled on shore repeatedly during the forenoon, for the men to steal some of the com which overhung the margm of the river. They were, however, paroeived by the more diligent of the watchers, but they did not take any mea- nues to prevent them, because they saw that they were the sultan's servants, and the whole of these have the privilege of stealing as much com from the CmArie as .they have oooasioii for. Use pjoor maa had a canoe laden with S24 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. new corn, which was pounced upon by these hungiy plunderers, who com- pelled its reluctant owner to transfer it from his canoe into their own, without temunerating him in anywise for the loss he thu6 sustained. Another individual who happened to be in a canoe was chased a considerable distance down the river, under the impression that he had likewise com with hiui, the robbers en- deavouring to palliate their conduct by saying, that as the man paid no tribute to the sultan, his effects were at all times liable to be seized. The man, however, exerted all his strength, and happily succeeded in making his escape. About noon we observed a herd of Falutah cows grazing on the banks of the river ; and in the water a little way from them we saw an immenine crocodile floating on the surface like a long canoe, for which it was at first mistaken, and watching an opportunity to seize one of them, and destroy it by dragging it into the river. As soon as he was perceived by the canoemen, they paddled as softly as possible towards him, intending to wait at a short distance till the crocodile should have accomplished his object, when they agreed to pull rapidly towardii the shore and reap the fruit of the reptile's amazing strength, by scaring him. of from his prey, or destroying him with harpoons, for the skin of a crocodile is not considered impenetrable here. Their intentions, however, were frustrated by the sudden disappearance of the crocodile, which dived the moment he perceived the canoe so near him, making a loud plashing noise, and agitating tlie water in a remarkable manner in his descent. We waited in vain for him to rise again. A very short time after this the canoemen landed at Warree, which is the most celebrated market-town in the dependency of Engarski, and consists of several cltisters of huts encircled by a dwarf clay wall. The market is attended by many thousands of people from different parts of the country, besides Yaoorie, Boossa, and Wowow, yet nothing peculiar to Engarski is exposed for sale in it ; and the cheapness at which tlie productions of the country are disposed of is most likely the principal inducement for buyers to resort to Warree. Vast numbers of ca- noe? filled with people and goods, were passing from one side of the Niger to the other during our limited stay outside the town, and the countenances of both buyers and sellers betrayed a very anxious and business-like expression, Ah soon as our curiosity was fully satisfied, we also crossed over to the Boossa side of the river, and landed at a small walled town called Gamicassa, which is inhab- ited by the Cumbrie, and situated about five miles north of the city of Boossa. At no great distance from this place and within sight of it, all the branches of the Niger meet and form a beautiful and magnificent body of water, at least seven or eight miles in width; and it is truly astonishing what becomes of it, for at Boossa the river is not more than a stone's throw across, and its depth is in pro- portion to its narrowness. But about an hour's walk from thence it again be- comes a noble riyer, and maintains its width, it is said, even to Funda. This singular fact favours the opinion, that a large portion of the waters of the Niger is conveyed by subterraneous passages froi'i the town of Gamicassa to a few miles below Boossa. Shortly after our arrival, when we were making some allusion to the river to one of the inhabitants, a Falatah hearing us came Ibrward and made the extraor- dinary assertion, that instead of running to Funda, it took a turn to the east- ward, and disembogued itself into the lake Tshad in Boriiou. But theories respecting the Niger are even more various and contrary in this country than the hypotheses of the learned of Europe on the subject. Scarcely two people are to be found (hat agree in the same opinion, and their suppositions are not con- fined to the course and termination, but include ali.o tiie source of this myste- rious river ; yet, with all their talk, it is easy to perceive ttiat the natives are all entirely ignorant of the matter. The earlier part of the evening, after our arrival at Gamicassa, was calm, flerene, and delightfuj ; and the silvery moon shone with urrusual resplendence. It was a favourable time for the inhabitants of the town to enjoy themselves; and accordingly they were thus employed in go earnest. Singing, dancing, and mdsic-piuying are the only divertisements >. ivh which the generality uf the Cumbrie are acquainted ; and though this people are even more despised than the slothful Uottentota of the southern part of ttie continent,— 'though their rights RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 535 are UHheeded and their liberties abased, yet these considerations do not seem Ut impress them with gloomy reflections ; and they trifle away their leisure honra in play, with as much zest and thoughtless jollity as though they were the. most favoured people in the world. A sudden and confused nuise of merriment awoke me from a pleasing kind of revery in which I was indulging in the iiioon^liiue. I went out instantly to a»- r«trtain the cause of stfch obstreperous mirth, und dbcovered a number of young girls, and married women with children on Uieir backs, dancing, singing, romp^ iof , and clapping their hands, after the nuinner of the country ; and a group of their male relatives standing beside them as judges and spectators of their pro- ceedings. A female would spring suddenly from amid her companions, and aiVer skipping and dancing with great animation till she became (juite exhausted, would fall backwards into the arms of her associates, who, anxiously watching her movements, had put themselves into a suitable attitude to receive her. An- other would then supply her place, and then another, till all the festive party had danced in turn ; and this amusement was kept up with so much spirit, that wreams of laughter and other violent tokeas of delight continued as long as it lasted. The dance (if it deserves the name) commenced with the whole of the females, married and single. They hrst formed them.-t Ives into a circle, holding fast of each other's arms, and then they moved round very slowly without lifting their feet lr>om the ground. This exercise seemed to have occasioned them much exertiou and difticulty, if we might be allowed to judge from the violent and peculiar manner in which they shook and twisted their bodies, as well aa from the failure of several of the younger girls, who were obliged to quit the ring almost as soon as it was formed. This slowness of motion was gradually succeeded by a sprightlier movement, till they ran round so swiftly, that tlie circle was suddenly broken, and many of the women were thrown with violence to the ground. The singing, or rather screaming, and clapping of hands, to- fetlier with other noises, more vociferous and wild than these, were continued oil the approach of morning, when a heavy shower drove every one home. No- thing, perhaps, in this country is more capable of producing a wild, romantic, and pleasing elfect than such a spectiicle as this, and at such a time. In front of us lay the celebrated Niger, reflecting from its unruffled smface tho splendid canopy over our heads, with the radiant clouds of departing duy. On each side of the river Nature had scattered with a lavish hand '^ iimt lovely of her gifts; and verdant trees cast their tall shadows on the wute \ I most close to the place where we stood was a circle of naked savage wouk ij li Mark as a cual, who were perfbrming the oddest antics imaginable ; and sull in Mier ^todd a wild- 'ooking group of their male companions, resting on their tail njm' and partici- pating in the frolic with all their hearts. A three-cornered ru.ili or traw hat, having a high peak, but without a brim, was the only article of dress v\ orn by these men. Altogether, as we have already said, the scene was such as to fill the mind with the highest gratification and delight. To us it was irresistibly charm- ing, and we contemplated it a long time with emotions of the most pleasin. description. Thursday, August ZUt. — It rained incessantly till between eleven and twelv-; oclock in the forenoon, when the sun made his appearance at intervals, and the weather, became fine, which we promptly availed ourselves of, in pursuing our journey along the banks of the Niger to Boossa The path was filled with water, and broken up by the force of the rains. After an hour's ride we drew near ti the walls of the city, and soon arrived at the drummer's house, whiclj had been (lur former residence. Here we found the midiki on her knees to receive and welcome us back again to Boossa in the name of the king. But we were not rermitted to enter and take possession of our old apartments, for the queen con- ducted us to other hut**, which form part of a cluster inhabited by Falatahs, and emigrants of both sexes from Yarriba and Nouftie, who are mostly slaves to tlie Ung. A quantity of milk and large calabashes of rice and fish, stewed in palm oil, were sent us a few minutes after our arrival ; and in the evening we were vidtedby the monarch, who said he had been appreheusive that we required a little repose and quietness after our journey, ana therefore h« did not Uke to in- RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. trade onus before. He expressed the pleasure he feh on seeing as again, and welcomed us with the utmost cordiality. The midiki, who hud accompanied him to our house, paid us a similar compliment. It has been told ua that the drummer's wife had excited the envy of the queen by wearing round her neck a smart gilt button which we had given her; and that this is the only reason that we are not allowed to occupy our former lodgings in her house. Yet, to he even with her^inr rival, the queen had extracted from her little sheepskin box, wherein they had been confined for a quarter of a century, a small number of round and flat golden ornaments, with which she has adurm d her sable bosom, and thereby totally eclipsed the transitory splendour of the button belonging to the drummer's wife. On our arrival at Boossa, the face and hands of my brother and self were much swollen and highly inflamed by exposure to the sun, and this circumstance, sim[ili> as it was, excited the queen's sympathy almost to tears. Friday, August Gth. — In a conversation with the king this rooming, he inti- mated that it would be necessary for us to visit Wowow, previous to our gotii^ to Funda, because the prince of that state, be said had already made war on Kiama on our account, and captured a few of its people. The king had been induced, from tlie representations of the midiki, who is sister to the chief of Wowow, to urge our taking this step ; and as we dare not raise objections, \m* have promised to go thither in a day or two, although we are well aware that tlm litde present we shall be necessitated to ofler him will by no means answer his expectations. The king has himself repeated to us the promise which he niaile to our man, of furnishing us with a canoe sufliciently large to contain the whole of our people and ourselves, and whatever goods we may have led ; and in order to bind him to his word, we have given him our tent and the horse which was lately his own ; so that deprived of ^ese, we shall not have the means of travelling on land, and shall therefore of necessity be obliged to proceed by water. To the queen also, whose influence over the mind and actions of her husband is un- bounded, we have made a present much greater than our means warranted, with which she is more than pleased. We have further endeavoured to win her ftvour by kindness, compliment, and flattery ; and these means are tlie moBt powerful and efiective in the world. The simple-hearted females of this country are quite unable to resist them. Thus far every thing is favourable to our en- terprise, yet doubts sometimes ari.se in our minds ; and should a canoe be denied us after all thai the monarch of this place has said, we are determined, when the, time draws near for our departure, to take a canoe of our own accord, and steal away from Boossa by night. " Faiatahs," said the king to-day with much seri- ousness, " reside on each side of the river in considerable numbers, and I begin to fear that they will endanger your perponal safety." " But," answers Pascoe, our interpreter, "Englishmen are gods of the waters, and no evil can liefail tiieni inboats, even though all Africa, or the whole world, should fight against them. ' yl will, however," said the king in reply, "go down and ask tlie becken rouah (dark or black water, which the Niger is everywhere emphatically styled) whether it will be prudent and ^iiCe for the white men to embark on it or not. and I will be sure to acquaint you and them of my success, be it good or bad." To-morrow morning, we underi>tiind, be intends making this singular experi- ment; and we only hope that the Migcr may return him a favourable answer to hisquestion. To-day, when we ascertained that it was the actual intention of tlie king to supply us with a canoe, we thought proper to present him, in the name of our sovereign, with one of those beautiful silver medals which were cast during thu American war, for the purpose of distributing among those Indian chiefs who were favourable to the English interests. A large and valuable chain of the same metal was attached to it, and nothing which e had previously given the king seemed to have pleased him so much as thus medal and chain; he regarded it indeed with childish admiration. We assured him that he might now consider himself as the King of England's most part ;ular friend, and that he could nut oflTer a more grateful return, than by favouring and aasisting us in our plan of journeying to the ml^waler by way of Ue Niger. ■p RICHARD AND JOHN LANDRR. 627 Saturday, August 7th. — Just after we had arisen this mornina, the king came to U8 with joy beaming in his countenance, and quickly informed us that, accord- ing to bin promise, he had been down to the Niger, with his mallam or priest, and that the result of his visit was highly favourable to our wishes as well as his own; '■ the river having promised to conduct us in safety to its termination." One of our greatest apprehensions is by this means removed. At length, all things being ready, our travellers departed for Wowow, and the next day arrived at that city. On entering it, they immediately galloped swiftly towards the king's residence, and fired oflf a couple of pistols as a signal of their arrival. The king, they say, presently came out to see us ; but as the messenger t'roni Boossa was not at hand, and as it is the custom never to enter into any kind of conversation without him, the old chief awaited his coming with much patience for more than half an hour, nor could we approach him during that time. Indeed, no foreigner is permitted to do so, whatever may be his rank, unless in presence of the representative of the chief from whom he last came. A number of well dressed mallams walked before the king on his coming out, and a man be mng on his shoulder a heavy sword came after them; and last of all IbUowed a long train of his wives and children, who squatted themselves on the ground, and jfilled up the doorway. In the wall on each side of the entrance «f the town is a large niche, in one of which the king stood fixed and motionless, with his hitiJi cla4pad under his tobe and supported on his bosom; and round a pole which had been placed erect in the otner niche, a naked youth had entwined his legs, remaining in breathless anxiety to be a spectator of the ap- proaching interview. No two human beings ever bore a more striking resem- uiance to statues than these ; the deception was indeed complete. For ourselves, we had sent our horses to graze, and sat about a dozen paces from the doorway, under a large tree ; — the mallams. were sprawling on the earth between the king and us; and at a respectful distance on each side, groups of the inhabitants had assembled to gratify their curiosity. While the king remained in the above position, without moving a single muscle, aiid which lasted till our messenger had made his appearance, a singing- woman drew near the person of her sovereign, and began to exercise her voca- tion in a tone of voice that displayed any thing but sweetness and melody, and 80 loud and shrill as to frighten away the birds from the trees near the spot. Aller this salutation, she fell on her knees, and repeatedly threw handfuls of earth over her left shoulder down her back. The Boossa messenger who liad been so anxiously expected at length arrived, and the spell which had bound every one to the spot was dissolved in a moment. We were then conducted to the king, and formally introduced to him ; but' the grave, eccentric old man Hiiook hands with us without taking them from th6 tobe in which they had been enveloped, or even condescending to Idok in oar faces, for he never makes it a practice to raise his head above a certain height ; fearing he may discover the person with whom he may be conversing, gazing full in his countenance, to which he has a very strange but unconquerable antipathy. The interview lasted but a moment, and we were hastily conducted to the house which was occupied by the late Captain Clapperton; and here we were soon visited by a number of the principal people of the city. In the course of the morning we received a quantity of eggs, milk, yams, and a fat sheep, as a present from the king. Our travellers remained at Wowow until the 20th of August. The incidents which occurred during their sojourn there were very similar to those already related as having taken place at other African courts. The Mohammedan Sab> bath was celebrated, as is usual, by public recreations and festivities, and follow- ed by the customary horse-race. The race was commenced by eight or ten ponies, as handsome as they were swift, and the competition between them was most spirited. After the contest between them had been concluded, the king made his appearance at the lower end of the course, riding slowly towards the starting place, preceded by singing and dancing women, who bawled and caper- ed before him. The horses were chiefly rode by little boys, one of whom was the king's son : when they galloped past their sovereign they invariably doftied 538 BICHARD AND JOHN LANDEB. their oapa as a mark of respect. As soon as the race was over the idng retnmed' to his residence, and his example was presently followed by the |>rince and the other part of his household. But all these were obliged to return by a different path, Mcause it is against the rules of etiquette for any one of the natives to at- tend the footsteps of his sovereign on the celebration of any public amusement. The king received his present with great satisfaction, although he sent a mes- senger to me travellers after its reception to inquire if they had not brought any cor^ beads with them from England. The present consisted of two pair of silver bracelets, apiece of coarse muslin, sufficient for a couple of turbans, ato- baeco pipe, two razors, a new gilt button, two small and inferior looking-glasses, a clasp luiife, a pair of scissors, and two combs. The king expressed great satisfaction that the travellers visited him, because he said it would convince his neighbours that the white men neither disliked nor despised him. " I am now infinitely happy,'' said he to them, " for surely I could not have lefl the world in peace if you had departed from the country without having visited the old king of Wowow." Guns were fired off in hon- our of their arrival ; and the king and his wives, elated with joy, passed the ihy in dancing, laughing, and singing. The king informed the travellers that he would sell them a canoe, and assured them that he was couvinced that they would return in safety to their own country by way of the Niger, wliich, he said, did not contain a single rock from Inguazhuligee to Funda. The following extracts from the journal of the Landers, containing some ac- count of the religion, customs, and condition of the kingdom of Wowow, may not be uninteresting to the readers of this book : — The religion is nominally Ma- hometan ; but still much deference is paid to the ancient religion of the country. The travellers say : This day a long and gay procession, formed by the female followers of the an- dent religion of the country, passed through the town, walking and dancing alternately, with large spreading branches of trees in their hands. The priestess, at the time we saw her, had just swallowed fetish-water, and was carried on the shoulders of one of the devotees, who was assisted by two female companions, supporting the trembling hands and arms of their mistress. Her body was con- vulsed all over, and her features shockingly distorted, while she stared wildly and vacandy on the troop of enthusiasts and other objects which surrounded her. The priestess was then believed to be possessed with a demon ; indeed, to us they all appeared to be so, for not one of them seemed in their sober senses, so indiscribably fantastic were their actions, and so unseemly did they deport themselves. A younger woman was Ukewise borne on the shoulders of a friend, and carried along in Uie same manner as hs^r mistress ; but she was by no means so uncouth a figure, nor wa^ her agit^ition so great as that of the priestess, by whom she was preceded. The whole of the women forming this strange pre- cession might amount to between ninety and a hundred; they were clad in their " holyday best;" their motions were regulated at tiuies by the sound of druniH and fifes, and to this music they joined their wild shrill voices. They were arranged in couples, and with the branches of ti-ees shaking in the air, presented one of the most extraordinary and grotesque spectacles tliat the human mind can conceive. The King of Wowow is making new roads, and repairing and widening old ones leading to and from the city. This is the only instance we have yet seen wherein even the sUghtest attention has been paid by a chief to the state of the public pathway, during the whole of the journey from Badagry to Yaoorie ; and the reason urged by the ruler of this place for undertaking the business is some- what singular, though shrewd and just. " If," savs he, " an enemy were to come towards my gates with a hostile intention, and find the roads broken up or overgrown with weeds, would they not say among themselves, ' Oh, this King of Wowow is a careless, slothful, cowardly governor; his town contains but few inhabitants, for see, the path is green and untrodden by human feet ; let us so and attack it, for it will easily fall into our hands ?' But," he continued, " should they find it of convenient width, smooth, and free from grass, they would imme- diately say, 'This road is trodden by the feet of many people ; the town must RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. J30 be popalons, strong, and flourishing, and its monarch watchful and brave ; if we venture to make an assault, we foresee that we shall be overpowered and alain i it is better for us all to turn back while we are yet undiscovered and nnharmeJ, lest some evil fall upon us when it is too late to retreat.' " Thus the talkative old king argues with his people, that they may throw off that laziness which is natural to them, and be animated to industry and labour in the common cause. A greater quantity of yams is cultivated in the. vicinity of Wowow than is grown in nil the other principalities of Borgoo put together. It is a common question on the path when the natives meet a stranger, " What! are you going to Wowow to eat yams ?" And the King of Boossa jocosely observed to us in parting, " That after we had tasted the yams of his relative, he was apprehenrive we should be inclined to remain a longer period in Wowow than he had pro- posed, for that they were a powerful inducement." Rice and corn are also cultivated to an unlimited extent here, and two species uf beans, so that the necessaries of Ufe are very plentiful and chean. Reaping has commenced, and the wet season, it is said, is nearly over. / < i most other places, indigo and cotton are yearly produced at Wowow in abundance. Sunday, August I5th. — Yesterday and this morning I was seized with giddi- ness of the head and other symptoms, which are the usual precursors of a fever in this country. We had left our medicine-chest behind at Boossa, and as 1 wa9 apprehensive that I should be laid up in this city, if I remained in it longer, my brother agreed with me in opinion, that it would be advisable for me to return without delay to Boossa, and leave him here to settle the business respecting the ranoe, &e. I therefore got nn horseback as soon as the vertigo had passed away, and without stopping tu bid adieu to the king, immediately depaited on mv journey with two attendants. My brother furnished me afterwards with the following account of the events which fell under his own observation daring the time we were absent from each other. " A very few miuv after my brother had departed from Wowow, die prince sent me a young bullock and a number of yams ; and his brother likewise pre- sented me with a quantity of milk, rice, and a fatted goat. " About mid-day the female worshippers of the "ncient gods, who have already .been alluded to, perfoimed a second mystical ceremony, which is enjoined by their religion, and afterward paraded the streets in the same order as on the former occasion. When it was over and the procession had dispersed, without intimating their intention, several of them paid me a visit attended by musicians with drums, flutes, and guitars, and a great number of little boys and girls. I was sitting in ashed outside our hut at the time, with a sheet spread belbre me. to keep o^ the eyes of tlie curious ; and when it was pulled up by the priestess herselt, who was fantastically dressed in man's apparel, and when, with her large rolling eyes, and phrensied countenance and manner, she performed her antics before me, uttering at the same time a piercing yell, more dismal than a dog's at midnight, I started and shuddered a moment, for I was quite unprepared to wit- ness such an object. But the poor enthusiast had no evil intention, for she fell down on her knees, gazed at me with tears in her eyes, and with a look of tender- ness, held out her hand as a token of friendship, blessed me, and then arose and went out to make room for her principal attendants, who shrieked like her, and nlTered their hands in the same manner. Our Boossa messenger, and other in- dividuals, who had come in before this most singular method of salutation was ended, subsequently received the benediction of the devotees, which was bestow- ed on them by the elder of the females. The method of doing it was novel and peculiar ; in the first place, the man was placed in a stooping position, the female then twisted his left arm, and pulled it over the back with all her might ; it was then let go, to the great relief of tlie man ; and she placed both her hands on his xhoulders, which she pressed down with great energy, muttering between her leeth during the time the blessing which he had sought ; but this was so inaudible dure sorrow, pain, and punishment: — a variety of tortures are 'mJ0bte for them, sach as scourging and beating, till it is considered sufficient punishment has been ^iflicted for their misdeeds, when they are exalted to a happier state of being. " Others, who waver between the Mohammedan religion and the ancient faith, believe that at the end of the world a voice will sound from heaven to in- vite all black men to the world of bliss, but that these will be too much uncon- cerned and too lazy to embrace the offer ; a second voice will then proclaim tlie same invitation to white men, who will spring up with alacrity and transport, and enter the celestial regions before them, with books in their hands. They pro- fess to believe also, that two men were originally created, one black and the other white, from whom the whole world is descended. " The professors of the ancient superstition sacrifice a bullock, a sheep, or a black goat to their divinities, but they shudder at the very idea of a human oflfer- ing. Instead of agreeing with us that the world will be destroyed by fire, they suppose that its Divine Maker will roll it up like a parchment scroll, and pat it aside for a futiue occasion. " It is somewhat remarkable that in Haus? ley have a tradition that the name of our great forefather was Adam (pronounced exactly in the same manner as we pronounce the word.) Da Adam, in the same language, signifies an object when observed indistinctly at a distance, bearing the least resemblance to a man. The mother of the human race is called Ameenatoo in Haussa. The more respectable classes of society in Wowow and Boossa, after their decease, are buried in the yard of the house in which they resided when alive; while the people in the common walks of life are interred in a spot of ground selected for the purpose in a thick wood, which is at some distance from the city, and answering to our own places of burial. The fiiends of the former, as soon as they are made acquainted with his dissolution, resort to his house, and make lamentation for him for the space of seven days, wearing during that period their very worst apparel. But the relatives of a poor man attend his remains to the burying ground, and abide in the wood tiU their grief is assuaged and the time of mourning expired. " Marriage among free people is exceedingly simple, and is attended witli litde mirth or festive recreation of any kind. The intended husband is allowed to have nothing to do in the affair, though it concerns him so neariy, and the pa- rents of the girl are equally oitof the question. When the parties become attached to each other, the femple goes immediately to acquaint her grandmoAtr of the circumstance, and coaxes £e old woman to give her consent for her to live henceforward with her suitor, for she alone has the power of giving the maiden away. If 'it happens, however that she has no grandinotlier, the girl i» at liberty to act as she pleases. Several days are always allowed for the old wo- maa to reflect and ponder over the whole matter in her mind ; and this interval is generally (embraced by the man in making her trifling presents, and doing fcer RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. ^^i^ •thsr liltfA afli of kindness, in the h(^ of gaining her over to his interoosk When a five man forma an affection for a female who is a slave, and he has money soffieient for the purpose, he goes to her master, whoever he may he, Hnbosoms hw mind to him, and informs him of his intention of taking the woman to wife, if he will give him permission. Should the owner of the lirl approve of the connexion, the suitor pays him twenty thousand cowries for hu' consent to the match, though a smaller sum is oftentimes offered and accepted ; ai\d the ob- ject of his affections from tliat time becomes his spouse. Yet the children whidi «lie may bear him cannot be retained by the father, but are considered the ex- chisive property of the wife's master, who lays claim to tbem and takes them away as soon as thev are able to run about. ' Nor does the marriage ceremony break the bonds of the woman's slavery, for she is liable to be called upon wheu« ever the master thinks proper, when she is obliged to serve him in the same manner as if she had remained in a single state. The union of slaves among each other depends entirely upon the will and pleasure of their owners. " A man is at Uberty to retiun his wife to her parents at any time, and without adducing ^ny reason tor his dislike and dissatisfaction. When this is his inten- tion, he treats his spouse with disrespect and unkindness, which she soon under- stands the meaning of, and of her own accord she goes back to her friends, and tells tbem of what h<^ occurred. These subsequently repair in a body to the husband's house, and question him in a formal manner whether it id his desiro that his wife should continue to abide with tbem. If so, the connexion is fortli- with dissolved, and she is again considered in the light of an unmarried woman. The children (if any) the mother is by no means permitted to take along with her, but they are left behind with their father, who delivers them over to the care of his other women. " The King of Wowow daily inquires after my health, and sends me a quan- ti^ of yam.", milk, and eggs, every morning. Although this old chief has receiv- ed a present infinitely smaller than we have given any other ruler, yet his treat- ment of us has been more generous than that of all of them together. His brother, also, and one or two other respectable individuals, have been equally kind, and have endeavoured all in their power to render our stay among them perfectly agreeable. They expect nothing in return lor their hospitality, for we have nothing but a few needles to offer them, and we have told them so again aad again ; nevertheless, their attention and kindness do not diminish. " Tuesday, August 17th. — I was taken extremely unwell tltis morning with an indiscribable and very unpleasant sensation in the head, which made me so life- less and stupid that 1 could scarcely keep my eyes open for the remainder of the day, and obliged me to lie on my mat till evening, where I dozed away the-houra more uncomfortably than I can describe. It is very remarkable that hitherto in the evening preceding the day on which we have been taken ill we have ever been surprisingly brisk and hvely, with an unnatural flow of spirits; and we are 80 well aware of this that we always anticipate what is sure to follow, when we find ourselves in this merry mood, namely, an attack of illness on the ensuing morning. "The messenger sent by the king to procure us a canoe is not yet returned from Inguazhilligee ; another was despatched after him yesterday, and this morning a third, it is said, has left the town on the same errand ; so at least peo- ple have informed us. The object of the first of these men is not confined to his visiting the ferry ; but if he could not meet with a canoe to his satisfaction there, he has been desired to proceed farther down the Q,uorra until he should see one that shouldanswer our purpose. He is also to examine and report the appearance of a reef of rocki like that at Boossa, which runs across the river below nguazhiUigee, and collect monies and dail'^s owing to his master. It is therefore not much to be wondered at that he is not yet returned to Wowow. In tlie eve- ning one of our men arrived from my brother at Boossa ; he informed me by letter of his convalescence, and of his intention of returning to this city yesterday, whksh however had been frustrated by desire of the king. The letter stated further that the midiki would settle with her brother, the prince of Wowow, for the canoe which he has promised to sell as ; and therefore that I was at Uberty to 532 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. take mj leave of him whenever I might think proper. AIm in die' easing I r^ ceived an intimation Trom the king to remain in the city till his meaeenger, who ia hourly eipected, shall have returned from the banks of the Niger. Indeed it is more than unlikely, if my present indisposition continue, that I shall be aUe to undergo the fatigues of a journey to Boossa, for a day or two at least; so that this restraint of the king I shall scarcely feel." At Wowow our travellers gained further intelligence in regard to the books and papers of Mr. Park, but were not able to recover any thing of value. It ap> peared that one of the inhabitants had picked up in the Niger several books, «( the period of Mr. Park's death, ana that he kept them carefully concealed tiOthe iurival of Captain Clapperton at Wowow, when, finding that that officer made no inquiry for such books, he neglected to pay any further attention to them, and to use his own words, " they dropped or fell to pieces." A young man by the name of Abba with whom the travellers became acquainted at Wowow, in* formed them, that the late king of Wowow, father to the then king, became pos- sessed of much of Mr. Park's property, among which was a great quandty of guns and ammunition, particularly, musket balls, which they saw. Before this monarch's dissolution he lefl them to be divided among his sons, and our triiTel- len were able to recover uotliing but a large pillow or cushion, containillg an old Arabic manuscript. August 20th, John Lander bid farewell to the king of Wowow, and returned to join his brother, who it will be recollected, had gone to Boossa. On his journey thither, which required about two days, he encamped at night at a little village, whose inhabitant entertained the most frightful notions of the character of white mei*. " In the evening, when the sun was going down, and when the birds, recover- ing from the sultry heat of the day, had begun to warble in the coolness of eve- ning, the elders of the village assembled under thespreading branches of a noble tree to spend an hour or two in familiar chat, in pursuance of their common practice. To promote their cheerfulness and assist their conversation, large calabashes of strong home-brewed beer were placed by the side of them. Hav- ing swallowed two or three large draughts, the old men drbw close to each other, and the venerable chronicler of the harulet, in an under tone, started a conversa- tion respecting their guest, the fearful white man of the west ; and various and horrible were the conjectures of each on the cannibalism of his countrymen ; their mysterious supernatural powers, and their partiality for the blood of black men in particular. Their conversation became more serious as the beer began to operate on the old men, and as the dusk of evening came on they drew still closer together ; their legs, which had before been stretched out carelessly and comfortably at full lei, »th on die ground, were now gathered up under them ; and every now and then they ventured to look back over their shoulders to steal a glance at me, for I was not far off, but this only seemed to inspire them with greater fear than before. The younger natives were about this time returning to the village from their usual occupations by the river-side aud in the fields, and they stopped to join the company of the old men. The latter were almost na- ked, and tiie young men and girls were perfectly so, as well as the children of both sexes which had been attracted to the party, and stood listening to the tales of horror which were related. One of our men had been sitting all the while with them, partaking of their beer, and had been silent till he conceived it almost time to retire, when he endeavoured to undeceive them in regard to their opin- ion of the unnatural propensities of while men, and to overthrow all the visions of bloody adventures which they had imbibed in their infancy, and cherished in their old age, and which had this evening been strengthened almost to realities by my presence, assisted by the effects of the beer they had drunk. But their love for the marvellous could not so easih' be eradicated from their minds, and they turned a deaf ear to his remarks. The children shunned my hut as if it contained a serpent or a scorpion, and one or two of them that met me by acci- dent, started, then looked an.\iou8ly, eagerljr, and entreatingly at me for a mo- ment, as if overcome by terror, and then shrieked aload and raa away." RICTQARD AND JOHN LANOSR. 533 f,AtBoeople ; and it was not till past four in the afternoon that he showed himself i'om one of his huts. His arrival was welcomed by a spirited rally upon the drums, while he took his seat on a stool between the queen's station and the group of Falatahs, and perceiving us among the crowd, he invited us to place ourselves near his person. Several attendants who had followed their master stood on each side of him, forming, if it may so be called, a " guard of honour." One of these men held two large bundles of spears, whose points or barbs were confined in caps of burnished brass, on which he rested his head with much so- lemnity, and with a slight inclination of the body ; while from his temples was suspended a huge and enormous hat, made either of grass or rushes, which reached to the ground, and covered him like a shield. Others held loose bunr dies of spears, fans, and arrows, with the two prodigious Arab trumpets which have before been casually alluded to. Thus attended, the king entered into the spirit ofthe performances with a merry heart, and a determination to be pleased with them. He appeared to be by far the most delighted spectator ofthe whole, and signified his approbation by encouraging words and glances to those who danced or sung to his satisfaction. A cheerful smile ..animated his countenance during the whole time, and caused his featrjres to assume an expression of good- RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 696 kainonr which it is a particular cuRtom in him never to display so fully except «■ occasions of public festivity and enjoyment, though he is one of the pleasant- Ml and best-tempered men that we have met with in Africa. There was an elderly femide who danced alone before the king, and by the pIMlliarity of her looks, and her ludicrous and uncommon gestures, afforded us fery great amusement. This woman is a tail, awkward, ma.<)culine, and un- comely figure ; yet she endeavoured to look ho serious, at the same time with ko ueh acobitenance, and with a half-aveket8, accompa- nied with three cheers ; and launching out into the river they were soon out of Hght. Passing by many important towns and villages, and beautiful and highly culti- vated islands, they proceeded on their way without stopping until they reached the village of Dacannie, a distance of about one hundred miles. Indeed they were unable to land on account of the marshy nature of the banks of the river. The men becoming too fatigued to labour any longer, they sutl'ered the canoe to driA: along with the current, when, on a sudden,. an incredible number of hippopotami arose very near them, and came plunging all round the canoe, and placed them in imminent danger. Thinking to f r'ghtcii them off, they say, we Bred a shot or two at theqi, but the noise only called up from the water, and out of the fens, about as many more of their unwieldy companions, and we were more closely beset than before. Our people, who had never in all their lives been exposed in a canoe to such huge and formidable beasts, trembled with fear, and absolutely wept aloud ; and their terror was not a little increased by the dreadful peals of thunder which rattled over their heads, and by the awful dark- ness which prevailed, broken at intervals by flashes of lightning whose glare was truly awful. Our people told us that these formidable animals frequently upset canoes in the river, when every one in them is sure to perish. These came so close to us that we could reach them with the butt-end of a gun. When I flred at the fir.'^t, which I must have hit, every one of them came to the surface of the water, and pursued us so fast that it was with the greate t difficulty we could keep before them Having fired a second time, the report of the gun was fol- lowed by a loud roaring noise, and we seemed to increase r.ur distance from thein. No doubt, at first, when we intermpted them, they were only sporting, and wallowing in the river for their own amusement, but hud they upset our canoe we should have paid dearly for it. Finding we could not induce our people to land, we agreed to continue on all night. The eastern horizon became very dark, and the lightning more and more vivid ; indeed, we did not recollect ever having seen such strong forked light- ning before in our lives. At eleven, P. M., it blew somewhat stronger than a gale, and at midnight the storm was at its height. The wind swept the water furiously over the side of the caiioe, so that she was in danger of filling. Driven about by the wind, our frail bark became unmanageable, but at length we got near a bank which in some measure protected us, and we were fortunate enough to lay hold of a thorny tree against which we were driven, and which was grow- ing nearly in the centre of tlie stream. Presently we fastened the canoe to its brauehesj^ and wrapping our cloaks round our persons, and with our legs dangling half over the sides of the little vessel, we lay down to sleep. And though the thunder continued to roar, and the rain beat in our faces, and our canoe lay rocking like a cradle, still my brotlier slept soundly. The wind kept blowing hard from the eastward till aAer midnight, when it became eahu. The 546 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. rain then descended in torrents, accompanied with thunder and lightohig of the most awl'ul description. We lav in our canoe drenched with rain, and our little vessel was filling so fast, that two people were obliged to be constantly baling out the water to keep her afloat. The water elephants, as the natives term the hippopotami, frequently came snorting near us, but fortunately did not touch our canoe. The rain continued until three in the morning, when it became clear, and we saw the stars sparkling like gems over our heads. Again getting under way, in about two hours, they put into a small village rnlied Dacannie. After drying their clothes, and partaking of some slight re- I'reshments, they again proceeded down the river, until about mid-day, when they arrived at a small island called Gungo. The banks now became high and beau- tifully cultivated, palm trees grew in profusion, and the towns and villages were not more than two or three miles from each other. We observed, they say, some hundreds of large canoes, w\*b :*. hut in their middle, passing along the river, some crossing and recrossing to the opposite banks, while others were pursuing their course along them. They mostly seemed to consist of families of people, for while the men were paddling, the women and girls were singing to a guitur with tlieir Uttle delicate voices, and produced a very pretty effect. When we passed close to any of their canoes, they would suddenly stop their music, and exclaim, Ki, ki, ma nenee acca chiken zhilagee! Oh dear, oh dear! what do I see in that canoe ? at the same time expressing the utmost astonishment both in their features and gestures. We had not been on the water more than half an hour after leaving Gungo, before the wind rose to a gale, causing the river to be agitated like a sea, and our canoe to be tossed about like a cocoanut shell. It also rained heavily, inso- much that in a moment we were wettod to the skin, and onr canoe soon became half filled with water. We were tli n the middle of the river and in danger of sinking. Our men struggled hard so pull the canoe among the rushes on the right bank, for the purpose of holding on by them till ,the wind and rain diould abate, and the wkter become smooth. It was not without great exertion that this was effected, for the wind was against us, the water was in commotion, and our fragile little vessel, as a sailor would express it, " shipped several seas." No sooner had we got into the morass, and were congratulating ourselves on our deUverance, than a frightful crocodile, of prodigious size, sprang forth from his retreat, close to the canoe, and plunged underneath it with extraordinary violence, to the amazement and terror of us all : we had evidently disturbed him from his sleep. Had he touched our canoe, he would have upset it. The rain in addition to the water that washed in from the river over the bows of the canoe, employed three persons constantly baling to keep her afloat. The wind and rain having subsided, we left our retreat about half past eight, and kept on down the river. About ton in the morning we arrived opposite a large village, which is situated on a low, flat island ; and the current at this place rushing with the impetuosity of a torrent over a broad sand-bank, and notwithstanding we exerted all our powers to avoid it, we were completely foiled : the canoe became unmanage- able ; we were carried along with irresistible velocity ; and in less than two minutes she struck against the roof of a hut which was covered with water. By the sudden and forcible shock, one of our men was thrown with violence overboard, but the others, more fortunate, clung to the boughs of a tree. Though the current was so exceedingly rapid, the water was very shallow, and the man was enabled to join his companions shortly afterward : he appeared more fright- ened than hurt. The village was nearly washed away with the exception of about a dozen houses, so high were the waters of the river. The next place at which the travellers touched was the island of Fofo. The consternution of the people at seeing them was very great, and it was with some diflicult^. that they could obtain lodgings and food. Leavmg Fofo, they pa.ssed the river Coodonia, a stream of considerable size, which enters the Niger from the northward, and next arrived at Egga, a large town about three miles from the bank of the river. The travellers proceeded up to the town through a creek leading to the landing place. The town was RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 647 upwards of two miles in length, and onr travellers were struck with the immense iromber of large, bulky canoes, which lay off it, filled with trading commodities, and all kinds of merchandize common to the countir. They also had huts in them, and had blood smeared on their bterns, and feathers stuck in it as a charm or preservative agaihst robbers, and the evil disposed, The town wat^ found to be of prodigious extent, and the population immense. Like other towns on tlie bank of the river, it was frequently inundated, and a large portion of it was at that time overflowed with water. The chief received the travellers with great cordiality. He was seated on a cow's hide spread on the ground, smoking from a pipe about three yardd long, and surrounded by a number of Falatuha, and Heveral old mallams. The travel- lers were requested to sit near him. He looked at them witli surprise, from head to foot, told them they were strange looking people, and well worth seeing. They were indeed objects of great curiosity to all the people of Kgga, who came flocking by hundreds to the door of their hut, 86 that they were obliged to blockade the door ways, and stiUion a guard to keep them off. The chief paid them a visit and begged thuttliey would allow his wives and principal people to come and see them. They could not but comply witli the request. The curi- osity of tlie people to see tlieni became so intense that they dured not stir out of doors, and were obliged to take their exercir^e by walking round and round in their hut, like wild beasts in a cage. They seemed to be regarded, in fact, in tlie same light as the fiercest tigers in England; for if they approached near tlie door, the people would retreat in the greatest trepidation, and on their retiring to the back of the hut, they would again approach in silence and with caution. The travellers one day detenuined to salisly their curiosity, and accordingly walked about out side their hut for two hours. The people of Egga endeavoured to persuade them not to proceed on their way, until they could procure for them a convoy of traders going to attend a famous market called Bocqtut, and under who.se protection they might be secure from the attacks of tlie bloody and ferocious people who inhabited the banks of the Niger between Egga and tiiat city. Their representations of the dangers to which the travellers would be exposed so frightened their attendants, tliat at fust all but two, refused to accompany them. Finding, however, tliat they could not get their wages for their past services, if they stopped here, and seeing the trav- ellers determined, they concluded to go with them. Bidding farewell to the chief of Egga, and firing otl'tiiree muskets as a parting salute, they proceeded on their way. A few miles below the town, they saw a sea-gull which flew over their heads, a most gratifying sight, as it reminded them tliat they were drawing near the object of tlieir wishes and tlieir hopes. They also beheld about half a dozen white pelicans, which were sailing gracefully on the water. As they passed along, the banks at first appeared like a low swampy country, and then succeeded a region of great fertility and beauty, with large open villages on both banks of the river for many miles. However, they did not stop until reaching a small hamlet, situated on an island, where as the sun was declining, and the men were fatigued, tliey intended to sleep. The inhabitants, they say, no sooner saw us than tliey raised the war cry, and every man and woman armed them- selves with swords and dirks, bows and arrows, assuming a tlireatening and jiarming position. We called out lustily to them in the Haussa language, but ihey were unable to understand eitlier our words or gestures. Fortunately, in a few minutes, a woman, who could converse a little in the Haussa tongue, came down to us at the water-side, and we informed her tliat we were friends and Christians, travelling down the river to our native country. This she repeated to them around her, and partially succeeded in reuioving their sus- picions. The people, however, being either unable or unwilling to accommodate them with a lodging, they again set out, and continued on tlieir way until they came to a large town on the western bank, called Kacunda. The people were at first alarmed at their appearance, but an old Mohammedan priest, relieved them of their fears, and entertained the travellers in his own hut, with a friendly hospitality. 548 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. Kacunda is the capital of a kingdom of the same name. Its government is despotic ; it maintains little intercourse with any other considerable nation, but confines its trade almost exclusively to divers people inhabiting the hanks or the Niger to the soutliward. The natives are tall, well-formed, and muscular, Strings of red cornelian stone cut into something like th^ shape of a heart and hiehly polished, constituted their chief ornaments. Their only dress was a piece orcotton cloth round the loins. The chief who resided at some distance from the place where the travellerR landed, did not see them, but sent his brother to welcome them, with presents of goora nuts, a goat, some yam.", and an innnense quantity of beer. They in turn gave him a present for the chief, and also several little things which he fancied, and which seemed to have the eilect of securing for them his friendship. H« gave them a dreadful account of the natives down the river, and, to use their own words, " would not have us think of going among them, hut return b)' the way we had come." He said to us, with much emphasis, " If you go down the river, you will surely fall into their hands and be murdered." " Go, we mus't, I said, if we live or die by it, and that also to-inorrow." At Egga, they hud heard similar stories in regard to the manners of the people down the Niger. They were said to be public robbers, living under no king, acknowledging no hiunan authority, in a word, a community of ferocious out- laws. But nothing could daunt the resolution of the Landers, or deter them from the execution of their purpose. But to avoid the danger as far as po.xgible, they resolved, agreeably to the suggestion of their friend, the brother of the chief of Kacunda, to perform the voyage in the night season until they should have passed the most dangerous town. They loaded their four muskets and two pistols with ball and slugs, made every possible preparation for their de- fence, exhorted their men to fidelity and courage, commended themselves to diu keeping of Divine Providence, and at half past four in the afternoon, moved otT from Kacunda, amid tlie vigorous and animated exertions of their men, in gal- lant style. They soon passed a large town, i'rom which issued a great and con- fused noise as of a multitude quarreling, and saw other towns on the \\ esterii bank, but cautiously avoided them all. The next morning they passed a huge and naked white rock, in the form of a perfect dome, arising from the centre uf the river, about twenty feet in height, and covered with an immense number of white birds, in consequence of which they named it Bird Rock. It stands three or four miles from the town of Bocqua. As the travellers passed it, they were very nearly lost in a whirlpool, and it was with the utmost difficulty they could prevent the canoe from being carried away and dashed against the rocks. Shortly after, seeing a convenient place for landing, the men being languid and weary with hunger and exertion, they halted on the right bank of the river. Three of the men went in search of fire wood, and as they were straggling about in the bush, a village suddenly opened before them, and they entered one of the huts to procure a Uttle fire. It happened to contain only women ; but they were terrified beyond measure, at the sudden intrusion of strange looking men, whose language they could not understand, and whose business they did not know, and they all ran into the woods. The men very composedly taking some of the burning embers from the fire, returned in a few minutes to their masters, and related the circumstance of their having discovered a village, and also told them how the women had run away from them as soon as they saw . them. This they thought lightly of, and immediately sent Pascoe, Abrdhum, and Jowdie, in company, to obtain some fire, and to purchase a few yams. In about ten minutes they returned in haste, telling us, to use the travellers own words, " that they had been to the village, and had asked for some fire, but tliat the people did not understand them, and that instead of attending to their vvishes, they looked terrified, and had suddenly disappeared. In consequence of their threatening attitudes, our people had left the village, and rejoined us with all the haste tliey could. We did not, however, think that they would attack us, and we proceeded to make our fires and then laid ourselves down. TotaUy unconscious of danger, we were reclining on our mats, when in about twenty minutes after our men had returned, one of them shouted with a loud RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 549 voice, "War is corning! O, war is coniiiiji^!" ami rantowarils us witii a ecreain (if terror, telling us that tiie native;) were ha.stoiiiti<( to attiick lut. We started up ;itthi!4 unusual exclamation, ami lookiii;; ahout us, beheld u large party of men iiluiO!>l naked, riiuuin^ in a very irrejt;ular manner, and witli uncouth gestures, towards our liule encampment. Tliey were all variously armed witli muskets, Lows and arrow^i, knives, cutlasses, harb.s, long spears, and other instruments of (Itstruction ; and as we gazed upon this hand of wild men, with their ferocious looks, and hostile appearance, which was not u little heightened on observing tiie weupoiis in their hands. Our party was much scattered, hut fortunately we could see them coming to lis at some di.stance, and we had time to collect our men. We resolved, how- fver, to prevent blooilslied if possible, our nuuiber were too few to leave us ji (hance of escaping by any other way. The natives were approaching us fiist, ;tiid iiad by this time arrived almost close to our palm tree. Not a moment was 10 l)e lost. We desired I'ascoe and ail our people to follow behind us at a short ili»t;ince, with the loaded uniskets and pistols ; and we enjoined them strictly not to tire, unless they fust fired at tis. One of the natives, who proved to be the ( hief, we perceived a little in advance of his companions ; and throwing down (iiir pistols, which we had snatched up in the lirst moment of surprise, my broth- er and i walked very composedly towards him. As we approached him, we iiiude all the signs and motions we could with our arms, to deter him and his people i'rom firing on us. His quiver was dangling at his side ; his bow was hent, and an arrow which was pointed at our breasts, alieady trembled on the string, when we were within a tew yards of his person. This was a highly criti- (al moment — llie next might be our last. But the hand of Providence averted the blow ; for just as the chief was about to pull the fatal cord, u man that was nearest him rushed forward and stayed his arm. At that in.stant we stood before him, and instantly held out our hands ; all of them trembled like aspen leaves ; \iie chief looked up full in our faces, kneeling on the ground, light seemed to Hash from his dark, rolling eyes, his Lody was convulsed all over, as though he were enduring the utmost torture, and with a timorous, yet undehnable e.\- presiiionof coimtenauce, in which all the passions of our nature were strangely Mended, he drooped his head, eagerly grasped our proffered hands, and burst into tears. This was a sign of friendship ; harmony followed, and war and bloodshed were thought of no more. The following explanation of his conduct was allerwards given by the chief. "A few minutes after you first landed, one of my people came to me, and said that a number of strange people had Jirrived at the market place. I sent him back again to get as near to you as he could, to hear what you intended doing. He soon atler returned to me, and said that you spoke in a language which he could not understand. Not doubting that it was your intention to attack my village at night, and carry off my people, I de- sired them to get ready to fight. We were all prepared and eager to kill you, and came down breathing vengeance and slaughter, supposing that you were iny enemies, and had landed from the oppo.site side of the river. But whenyou came to meet us unarmed, and we saw your white faces, we were all so Iright- ened that we could not pull our bows, nor move hand or foot; and when you drew near me, and extended your hands towards me, I felt my heart faint within me, and believed that you were Children of Heaccn, and had dropped from the skies. And now said he, " white men, all I want is your forgiveness." That you shall have most heartily, we said, as we .shook hands with ihe old chief; and having taken care to assure him that we had not come from st Rood a place as he had imagined, we congratulated ourselves, as well as him ri.at this afiair had so happily ended. For our parts we had reason to feel the most unspeakable pleasure, and we offered up internally to our merciful Creator, a prayer of thanksgiving and praise, for the Almighty had indeed, to use the words of the Psalmist, delivered our souls from death, and our feet from tailing, and pre- served us from any terror by night, and from the arrow that fiieth by day ; lioni the pestilence that walketh in darkness, and from the uestruction that wasteth at noon day. We were grateful that our blood had not been shed, and that we had been prevented from spilling the blood of others. Our guns were all loaded 47 550 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. with balls and sitigs, our men were ready to present them, and a single arrow from a bow would have been the signal of immediate destruction. It was a nar- row escape, and God grant we may never be so near a cruel death again. It was happy for us that our white faces and calm behaviour produced the effect it did on these people. In another minute our bodies would have been as full of arrows OS a porcupine's is full of quills. This place which the travellers had thus accidentally discovered, proved to be the famous market place, Bocqua, of which they had heard so much before. During their short stay here they were treated with the greatest hospitality ; and received from the chief and people valuable presents, both of provisions and money. The stories which the travellers had heard in regard to the character of the inhabitants on the Niger below, were here substantially repeated. The evening of the day after theii departure from Bocqua, they descried a canoe, and pulled towards it ; but those that were in it, frightened on steins, them, jumped out and hid themselves in the forest. In two or three minute they perceived on the left bank a few dilapidated huts, and pulled their canoe ashore, intending to remain there for the night. A number of women first of)- served them, and hurried away to an adjacent village, where they saw them pro- viding themselves with muskets and other uncivil weapons, and very formidable Amazons they appeared to be. We did not seem to regard them, but jumping on shore with our mats, satdown under the branches of a large cocoanut tree. We had not been long seated before a number of people made their appear ance, running hastily towards us with swords and muskets in their hands. See- ing that we were sitting down quietly, they hesitated, and stopping at a short distance from us, wished to know what we wanted at their town. We had re- course to our usual method of expressing ourselves by signs, and the natives finding that we were really harmless beings, ventured to draw nearer, and very soon became reconciled to us. Thechief of this place, which was called Abbazacca, a tall, Herculean, awk- ward figure, with a sullen and most forbidding countenance, on receiving his presents began to grumble, and told us plainly that he would not let us leave his village till something better was given to him. To enforce his threats, fourteen of his slaves stood around hi tn armed with muskets, whose appearance alone, he thought would be sufficient to intimidate us into compliance. We by no means wished to have any disturbance, and therefore endeavoured to persuade him that we had nothing more to give him. I directed all our travelling things to be taken out of the boxes before him, and had them put back again and locked up. This would not satisfy him, and he desired them to be searched again, and that he himself might be allowed to examine them. Our patience was now (juite exhausted : " Tell the chief," said I to our interpreter, " the boxes shidl be opened no more, and let him stop my people from loading the canoe if he dare." My brother and I had armed ourselves v/ith the loaded pistols and with the swords, as well as all our people, and on telhng the chief what we had done, we ordered them to proceed loading the canoe, which they obeyed directly. The chief stood amazed and did not offer to interfere. This old rascal had muttered and grumbled at every thing which was ofi'ered him ; this was of no use, and that of no value. After having gone the length he did, and having shown his in- solent airs, without producing the expected impression, he feared that he should get nothing at all, and therefore accepted the present we had offered him al first. This same chief resolvod upon accompanying the traveller.'^ in his cunoe to ;i large town about a day's journey from this place, and of" which he said, his brotlier was governor. Leaving x^bbazarca, and proceeding on their voyage, at two in tlus afternoon, tiicy came abreast of a village called l)aniui£;:o(). VVe had IK) sooiKjr tniuie our appearance, they .^ay, than wo were lustily liailed by a little squinling fellow, tiressi'd in an Knglisli soldier's jacket, who kept cryinj, out as loud iis Ills lungs would [lerniit hiui, "Holloa, you Kn^rlisluiicn ! you < !)mc here." However, we were not inclined to obey his sununcuis. and a.s tlie cur- rent swept tliiMn along past the village, took no notice of the littit' man. Short- ly, however, u dozen canoes overtook them, and desired them to turn back, a-^ RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 551 they had forgotten to pay their respects to the king. They complied with the request. The man in the red jacket proved to be a messenger from the king of Bonny, sent here to buy slaves. The king of Damuggoo treated them with great kind- ness, expressed the greatest satisfaction at liaving been permitted to behold white men, and being informed thai tliey were ambassadors from the great king of the white men, resolved to hold a rejoicing in their honour. The ceremonies commenced by a volley of musketry being fired off by comiiumd of the chief, and the travellers were afterwards saluted by a discharge from the swivels. This was a signal for the inhabitants to come forward and follow the examph; of their monarch, which they did with so much spirit and effect that a continual firing was kept np till between eleven and twelve o'clock, from which time the people pa- raded the town for the remainder of the night, dancing, singing, and making merry. The religion of Damuggoos is pagan. The people worship fetishes, and sev- eral fetish ceremonies were performed by the king and his people, to ensure the .safet" of the travellers on their pas.sage down the river to the sea. The govern- ment IS despotic. The chief, though benev leut in appearance, was severe in his punishments. Our travellers being seriously incommoded by the crowds of people who thronged their hut, and unable to keep them away, complained to the king, who told them to cut off their heads. The people carry on a trade with the Bocqua market, taking thither powder, muskets, soap, Manchester cot- tons, and other articles of European manufacture, and great cpumtitit^s of rum, or rather of rum and water, for not more than one third of it is genuine spirit, and exchanging them for ivory and slaves which are sold to the European traders. On their departure from Damuggoo, the king sent a canoe manned with his own men, which in company with their own canoe, should assist in conveying them and their attendants to the sea. Every thing being ready, the travellers were seated in their canoe, waiting for the boatmen and impatient for their arri- val, when they saw the king coming with a tram of followers. The mallam and all his principal people were with him, bringing numerous jars of palm wine. A mat was spread near the water side, whereon the chief sat himself", and we were instantly desired to place ourselves, one on each side of his person. The palm wine and some rum were then produced ; and as we were about to take a long farewell of our hospitable host, we drank of his offering, rather than give offence by a refusal. The j)alm wine circulated freely in the bowls, and the natives of the village, who witnessed all proceedings with no little anxiety, .seemed to be greatly delighted at seeing their chief so familiar with white men. .\ fatted goat was given ns as a parting gift, and a fmall decanter of rum was thrust in my brother's bosom as a cordial during the night. The fetish having l)een sufficiently invoked, and all having got into the canoe, we glided down the .stream with delightful rapidity, without stopping any where, or meeting with further hindrances till midnight. The canoemen entertained us with their na- tive songs, keeping time with their paddles, and every thing contributed to ren- der the passage pleasant. But alas ! this happiness was to be of short duration. The travellers had proceeded down the river about a day's journey, when they came to a large market town called Kirree. A great munber of* canoes were lying near the bank. They ap|)eared to be very large, and had flags lying on long bamboo canes. We took no notice of them, but pu.s.sed on, and in a ■short time allerw.ird we saw about tifly canoes before us, coming up the river. They appeared to be very large aiin to the iniiskels. car li canoe had a long gun in its bow that would carry a shot of four or six pouiuts, besides being provided with a good slock of swords and l)oarding piki's. By this time our canoes were side by side, and with astonisliing rapidity our luggage found its way into those of our opponents. This mode of proceeding; I did not relish at all ; so as my gun was loaded with two balls and four siujis, 1 took deliberate aim at the leader, and he would have paid for his temerity with his life in one moment more, had not three of his people sprung on nie and forced the gun from my hands. My jacket and shoes were as (piicklv plinulir- ed from me, and observing some other fellows at the same time taking awjiy Fdscoe's wife, I lost all connnand over myself, and was determined to sell luy life as dearly as I could. I encouraged my men to arm themselves with their pad- dles and defend them.selves to the last. I instantly seized hold of Pa.scoe's witV', and with the assistance of one of my men dragged her from the fellow's gni.sp; Pascoe at the same time levelled a blow at his head with one of our iron-wood paddles, that sent him reeling backwards, and we saw him no more. Our canoe having been so complet«ly relieved of her cargo, which had f on- sistedonly of our luggage, we had plenty of room in her for battle, and bein^; each of us provided with a paddle, we determined, as we had got clear of our adversary, to cut down the first fellow who should dare to board us. This was not attempted ; and as none of the other canoes had offered to interfere, I was in hopes of finding some friends among them, but at all events was determined to follow the people who had plundered us to the market, where they seemed to be going. We accordingly pulled after them as fast as we could, ftly men, now that the fray was over, began to diink of their forlorn condition. All then things were gone, and as they gave up all hojjes of regaining them, or being abie to revenge themselves on the robbers, they gave vent to their rage in tears and execrations. I desired them to be quiet, and endeavoured all in my power to pacify them by telling them that if we were spared to reach the sea in .safety, I would pay them for every thing they had lost. We were following the canoe tliat had attacked us, as fast as we possii)l\ could to regain our things, if po,ssible, when some people hailed us from a largti canoe, which I found afterward belonged to the new Calebar river. One of the people, who was apparently a person of consequence, called out lustily to me, "Holloa, white man, you French, you English .'" "Yes, English," I answered immediately. "Come here in my canoe," he .said, and our two canoes ap- proached each other rapidly. [ accordingly got into his canoe, and he put three of his men into nnne to assist in pulling her to the market. The people ol' the canoe treated me with much kindness, and the chief of her who had hailed me, gave me a glasH of rum. There were seviual females also in the canoe, who appeared to take a great deal of interest in my safety. On looking around me 1 now observed my brother coming towards us in the Damuggoo canoe, and the same villain who had plundered me was the first to pursue him. As we had been absent from each other all the nu)rjiing, and tli'J foregoing transactions relate only to my. self the following narrative of my broth- er will give the reader an account of his proceedings to the time 1 saw him, and the disaster which soon after followed. My brother left the village nearly two hours before me, and therefore he was far in advance when the Damuggoo canne, in which I had remained, was pushed off tiie land. Wisliing to overtalte liim, for ho had uo guide, the men exorttjd a? RICHARD AND JOHN LAN'DER. 553 tlieiuselves wonderfully, to make amends for the time which they had trifled away, and it was really a.stonishing to see the rapidity witli vvliich the canoe was impelled through the water. The morning was >. >ol, tierene, and delightful, and the sun had just emerged Iroiu a mass of dense clouds, whicli were fringed with a silvery light. On each side o)'the river, gentle and undulatitig hills ro.se one behind the other, covered with verdure, uiid heie and there varied hy groves of dark, green trees, which served to render the prosj)eot yet more agreeable, The smooth, transj arent surface of the river, disturljed only by the molions of our paddles, so calm, so peacelid in its gentle cour.>ie, relh'cted with unerring trutli the enchanting land- scape from either side, and lent its friendly aid to hasten us to cu.' long-wished for destination. After we had been in the canoe perhaps an iiour, one of the men who happen- ed to be standijig in tlie bow, fancied that he could ilescry, in another canoe. tiien at a considerable distance before us, a slieep and goat which my brother Imd taken away with him in the morning. All doubt as to the identity of the animals having been renu)ve(l from his own mind, and those of his companions, though (or my own part I nuist own that my visioti was not near keen enough to allow me to agree with tiiem in opinion, we gave chase to the suspected ca- noe. The men sianmoned all their resolution and strength to the Uisk, and, like an arrow from a bow, our nnrrow vessel darted through the water. We wained rapidly on the chase, and the people, perceiving our object, and mis- trusting our intentions, kept near the shore, ami laboured hard to get away from lis. They then entered a branch of die river, and sheltered themselves aurong a number of canoes that were lying alongside a large market place, situated on the right bank. This did not damp the spirit of our men, or deter them from t'ollovving the pursued : we succeeded in discovering their hiding place ; and at length, alter much wrangling and many threats, the robbers, (for such they pro- ved to be,) were conipelled to restore the animals. But how my brother could h;u e sulfered two men to plunder his canoe, puzzled me exceedingly, and 1 was totally at a loss to account Cor it. IVoUiing could exceed my surprise, on ap- pro.nhiug the market, to observe, as I thought, large Fjiropeaji Hags, atHxed to poles, and waving over almost every canoe that was there. On a clo.ser exam- ination, i discovered tlu'm to be only imitations, though they were executed with uncommon skill and neatness. British colours appareiUly were the most prevalent, and among these Uie Union Hag seemed to be Hie general favourite. Nor did my ii:)rmer surprise diminish in the least when ! landed, on Hnding tliat the Uiarket people were clad in i'^unijiean apparel, liiough, with Hie odd iimcy which is remarkable among Indians wlio have any intercourse with Europeans, none of them were dressed in a complete suit ol clothes. One wore a hat onl), with a Manchester coit(Ui tied round his waist, anoHier a shirt, another a jacket. &c. As all natives wiHi the exception of kings, uk; forbidden by law to wear trousers, a couniutn pocket handkerchief was generally sid)stituted for that arti- clf of dress, 'I'lie multitude formed tin; most nuitley group that we have ever seen; uoHiing 54 RICHARD ANP JOHN LANDER. women and children, and armed men, whose weapoas were in their hands. Such was their size, that each of them was paddled by nearly forty people. In pursuance of our arran,';oiiient we passed througli the midst of them, bnt could see nothing ; and we had advanced a few yards when on looking l)ehiiid n^, we discovered that the war-canoes had been turned round and were swil'tly pursu- ing us. Appearances were hostile ; the apprehension of danger suddeiilv tlasli- ed across my mind ; we endeavoured and struirgled hard to escape ; but fpii, had taken possession of the minds of my companions, and as they were una!)li) to exert themselves we did not get on ; all Mas vain. Our canoe was overtukon in a moment, and nearly sent under water by the violence with wiiicli her pur- suer dashed against her ; a second crash threw two or three of the Daniiiggoo people overboard, and by the shock of the tiiird, she capsized and sinik. All this seemed the work of enchantment, so quickly did events succeed eadi othci : yet in this interval, a couple of ill-looking fellows had jumped into our canor, and in the confusion which prevailed, began emptying it of its contents wiih as- tonishing celerity. On finding myself in the water, my first care was, very naturally, to pet om again; and therefore looking round on a hundred rufHans, in whose cuunten anceslcould discover not a single trace of gentleness or pity, I swam to a liir;." canoe apart from the others, in which I observed two females and some little ones, for in their breasts, thought I, compassion and tenderness nuist surely dwell. Perceiving my design, a sturdy man of gigantic stature, such as litiic children dream of, black as a coal, and with a most hideous countenance, sud- denly sprang towards me, and stooping down, laid hold of my arm, and snatched me with a violent jerk out of the water, letting me fall like a log into the canoe, without speaking a word. I soon recovered, and sat up with my companions, the women and children. and discovered them wiping tears from their faces. In momentary expectation of a barbarous and painful death, ' for what else,' said I to my.self, ' can all this lead to?' the scene around me produced litde impression on my mind; my thoughts were wandering far away, and tliis day 1 thought was to be inyliusi, I was meditatiiig in this manner, heedless of all that was going on around me, and reckless of what came next, when I looked up and saw my brother at a little distance, gazing steadlastly upon me ; when he saw that I observed him, he held up his arm with a .sorrowful look, and pointed his finger to the skies, O ! how distinctly and eloquently were all the emotions of his soul at that moment de- picted in his countenance ! Who could not understand him .' He would have said, "Trust in tJod!" I was touched with grief Thoughts of home and friends rushed upon my mind, and almost overpowered me. My heart hovered over the scenes of infancy and boyhood. O how vividly did early impressions return to my soul ! But such feelings could be indulged only lor a moment, Recollecting myself, I bade them, as 1 thought, an everlasting adieu ; and wean- ing; nay heart and thoughts from all worldly associations, with fervour I invoked the God of my life, before whose awful throne 1 imagined \ve shoidd shortly appear, for fortitude and consolation in the hour of trial. My heart became subdued and softened ; my mind regained its serenity aiul composure ; and though there was nothing but tunmlt and distraction without, within all wiis tranquillity and resignation. On account of the eagerness and anxiety with which every one endeavoured to get near us in order to share the expected phuider, ami the coidiision which prevailed in consequence, many of the war-canoes cliushed against each other with such violence, that three or four of them were upset at one time, and the scene which ensued bafHes all description. M.iii, women and children, cling ing to their Heating property, were struggling in the river, luid screaming an' crying out as loud as they were able, to be saved from drowning. Those that were more fortunate, were beating their comitrymeu off from getting into their ciuioes, by strikuig their heads and hands with paddles, as they laid hold of the sides and nearly upset them. When the noise and disorder had iti some measure ficased. my brother's catioe and that which I was in were by the side of each other, and he instantly took his shirt from his back, and threw it over nie, for 1 W.> RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER, 555 was naked. I then stepped into his canoe ; for whatever mi^ht he our fate, it would be a mournful kind of pleasure to comfort and console one anotiier in the hour of trial and sulfering. But I had no sooner done so, than I was dragged back again by a powerful arm, which I could not resist, and conmianded, by furious gestures, to sit still, on my peril. Unwilling to aggravate our condition by obstinacy or bravado, which would have been vain and ridiculous, I inade no reply, but did as I was desired, and silently watched tht> motions of ouri side, but i)oth were filled with water. A \arire carpet i)ag, containing all our wearing apparel, was lying cut open, and deprived of all its contents with the exception of a shirt, a pair of trousers and a waistcoat, ftlany valual)le articles which it had contained were gone. The whole of my journal, with the exception of .i note hook with remarks from llabba to this place, was lost. Four guns, one of which had been the property of Mr. Park, four cutlasses and tvvo pistols were gone. Nine ele- phant's tusks, the finest [ had seen in the country, which had been given me by the kings of VVovvow and Boossa, a quantity of ostrich feathers, some handsome leopard skins, a great variety of .>*eeds, all our buttons, cowries, and needles, which were necessary for us to purchase provisions with, all were missing, and said to have been sunk in the river. The two boxes and the bag were all that could be found. We had been desired to seat ourselves, which as soon as we had done, a circle gathered round us and began questioning lis ; but at that moment the sound ol screams and the clashing of arms reached the spot ; and the multitude, catching tire at the noise, drew their swords, and leaving us to ourselves, ran away to the place whence it proceeded. The poor women were hurrying with their little property towards the river from all directions, iind iinaghiing that we ourselves might lie trampled under loot, were we to remain longer sitting on the ground we joined tlir- Hying fugitives and all rushed into the water, jumped into the ca- noes, and pushed oif Hie land, whither our pursuers dared not follow us. The origin of all this was a de.-irejfor more plunder on the part of the EI)oe people, Seeing the few things of ours in the market place, which had been taken from their canoes, tliey made a rush to the place to recover them. The natives, who were Kirree people, stood ready for then), anned with swords, daggers, and guns; and the savage Eboes, finding themselves foiled in the attempt, retreated to their canoes without risking an attack, although we fully expected to have been spectators of a furious and bloody battle. The noise and uproar which this pro- duced were dreadful and beyond all desciiption. This alter all was a fortunate circumstajice, inasmuch as my brother and I. having unconsciously jiunped into the same canoe, found ourselves in each other's coin[)any, and were thus aflbrdtjd, for a short time at least, the pleasure of conversing without interruption ; and he dien related to me all that had hap- pened to him .'7 '■'Oiit of ns was the nirirkot-iilaco. wliich was crair.inod with proplo, fn.m all parts nl'theiUM^hhoiirini^ foiintiT, of diileroiit tribes, a fiiriU iiiullitiidf,' of wild men. of feiocioiK-4 aspect, and sava^^e, imeoiitii iiiiiiii:eis. 'I'o tliese hcloii^'ed tl:e (iioioe of either ^i^iviiii; us life and liherty, or dooming; us to death or sla\ery In the latter determination, tlieir minds nii!,'ht be swayed l)y suspicion or caprice, or influenced by hatred ; in the former, they mifiht be pujded by tlie hop( s of gain, or biassed by the fears of j)unishnient, — for many of tiieni had come from the sea-coast, and sucii an ad\enture as ours could not lonir remain confcaled from tlie knowiediie of our countrymen. Tiie shore for a long way was lined with tiieir canoes, iiaving the colours of various l'.uro|iean nations \vaving from long poles, which were fiisteued to the seats. Several of these had as maiiv as three tlags in each ; they were all of inunenso size, and fringed with blue cotton (Imfl) (Ut into scallops. Besides these there were others of the strauirest and most KBUK tANuK. grotesque patterns, such as representations of wild beasts, men's legs, wine- glasses, decanters, and things of still nmre whimsical shapes. Whence the bar- i)arians procured these emblematical banners we cannot tell ; but we understand that each tribe has its own peculiar Hags, which are unfurled whenever they un- dertake any enterprise of importance. Canoes were likewise stationed near an island or sand-bank in the middle of the river, which we considered to be neutral, as their owners did not seem to interfere with the proceedings of the ilay. But there happened t«) be among the savages a few well dressed Moham- medan priests, who had come late to the market from the northward. These were decidedly our friends. Many times they ble-^^sed us with uplifted hands and I'oiiipas.sionate countenances, exclaiming, "Alia SuUikee !" (God is King!) -Nor did they confine themselves to simple e.vpressions of pity or concern ; but as we sHhsefjuently learned, they joined the assembly, and spolu," in our liivour with warmth and energy, taxing those who had assaulted us with cowardice, linelly, and wrong, and proposing to have them beheaded on the spot as a just punishment for their crime. This was bold language, but it produced a salutary iffeet on the minds of the hearers. .\t about diree in the afternoon we were ordered to lelurn to the Miiall island tVoiii whence we had come, and the setting of the sun bcntg the signal for the •^^ouncil to dissolve, we were uguiii sent for to llits market. Tlie people had been 558 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. r.ngagt'd in deliberation and discussion during the whole of the day, and with throbbing hearts we received their resolution in nearly the following words ; " Tiiat the king of the country being absent, they had taken upon themselves, to consider tlie occurrence which had taken place in the morning, and to give judg- ment accordingly. Those of our things which had been saved from the water should be rt-turiied to us, and the person that had first connnenced the attiick on my brotiier slionld lose his head, as a just retribution for his otfence, having acted without ills chief's pennission ; that with regard to us, we must consider our- selves prisoiu'rs, and consent to be conducted on the following morning to OtiV, king of the Kboe country, Ijcfore whom we should undergo an examination, and whose will and pleasure concerning our persons would then be explained." We received the iiit('lligciir(! with feelings of rapture, and with bursting hearts wo ollered up tliaiiks to our Divine Creator for his signal preservation of us throughout this disastrous day. It was, perhaps, fortunate for us, that we had no article of value which tlie natives were at all solicitous iibout ; and to this circumstance, added to the eiivv of those who ha ying round him, and making great lamentation. The next morning, agreeable to the decision already related, the Landers bade adieu to Kirree, the scene of all their sorrows, and accompanied by six large war canoes, again took their station in the canoe with the Damuggoo people. Their condition was now very different from what it had ever been before, for they RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 559 were prisoners — and bound to the court, they had reason to believe, of a most fierce and savage king, at whose hands they were to receive their sentence of liberty or slavery, life or death. They had lost their clothing, their money, their goods, they had not even any thing with which they could purch.ise a uieal, and Sieir sable guardians knowing this, neglected to take into consideration the state of their stomachs. A piece of roasted yam to each, washed down with a little water, was all they could obtain to satisfy their hunger. They had been on the river about two days and a half, when one of the Eboe men in their canoe, exclaimed, "There is my country!" pointing to a clump of very high trees at some distance before them, and after passing a low fertile island they quickly came to it. The town was yet a good way down the river. In a short time, however, they came to an extensive moni.Hs, intersected by little channels in every direction, and by one of these got into clear water in front of the town. Here, they say, we found hundreds of canoes, some of them even larger than any we had previously met with. They were furnished with sheds and awnings, and afforded commodious habitations for a vast number of people, who constantly resided in them. Perhaps, one of these canoes which was made of a single trunk, afforded accommodations for seventy individuals. When we came along side these canoes, two or three huge brawny fellows, in broken English, asked how we did, in a tone which Stentor might have envi- ed ; and the shaking of hands with our powerful friends was really a punish- ment on account of the violent squeezes which we were compelled to .suffer. The chief of these men called himself Gun, though Blunderbuss, or Thunder would '".uv d been an appropriate name ; and without solicitation, he informed us that though he was not a great man, yet he was "a little military king;" that his brother's name was King Boy, and his father's King Forday, who with King Jacket governed all the Brass country. But what was infinitely more interesting to us than this ridiculous list of kings, was the information he gave us, that, be- sides a Spanish schooner, an English vessel called the " Thomas of Liverpool." was lying in the Jirst Brass river, which Mr. Gun said was frequented by Liver- pool traders for palm oil. On arriving at the palace, and having crossed the yard, in which we saw no- thing remarkable, we entered by a wooden door into another which was far su- perior. This formed an oblong square; it was cleanly swept, and each of its sides was furnished with an excellent portico. Near the door-way we saw with surprise a large heavy cannon lying on the ground. From this enclosure we were led into a third. Here we were desired to place ourselves among a crowd of half-dressed armed men, who were huddled together, some sitting and others standing, and awaiting the coming of the prince. Our friend Gun was among them, and he immediately claimed priority of acquaintance with us. He chatted with amazing volubility, and in less than two minutes he was on the most fa- miliar footing, slapping us, resting his heavy arms on our shoulders, laughing loud at every word we said, looking knowingly, and occasionally applying the palm of his hand to our backs with the most feeling energy, as a token of his approbation. We wished him to answer questions which concerned us nearly, but the only satisfaction we received was contained in the expression, " O yes, to be sure !" and this was repeated so often, with an emphasis so peculiar, and with a grin so irresistibly ludicrous, that in spite of our disappointment we were lustily entertained by him. In this manner was the time beguiled, till we heard a door suddenly open on our right, and the dreaded Obie, king of the Eboe country, stood before us ! And yet there was nothing so very dreadful in his appearance, after all, for he was a sprightly young man, with a mild open countenance, and an eye which indicated quickness, intelligence, and good-nature, rather than the ferocity which, we had been told, he possessed in an eminent degree. He received us with a smile of welcome, and shook hands with infinite cordiality, often compli- menting us with the word "yes!" to which his knowledge of English is confined, and which, no doubt, he had been tutored to pronounce for the occasion. Seve- ral attendants followed their sovereign, most of whom were unarnnjd, and 5G0 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. almost naked ; and three little boys were likewise in attendance, whose office it wiw to iiin him when desired. His dress somewhat resembled that which was worn, on state occasions, by the monarch of Yatriba. lu appearance was altogether lirUliant, and from tlu; vast profusion of coral ornamenLs with which he was decorated, Obie might have been not inappropriately styled, " the coral King." lie was seated on a throne of clay; a cap shaped like a sugar loaf, and thickly covered with strings of coral and pieces ol' broken looking-glass, grUced his head ; strings of the saiiio materials encircled his neck, some of them reaching almost to his knees. Uv, wore a short Spanish surtout of red cloth, murh too small, ornamented with gold epauletts, and overspread in front with gold hice. Thirteen or fourteen bract;- lets were fastened to each wrist with old cop|)er buttons ; his trousers composed of the same material its his coat, stuck as closely to the .«kiii, and reached mi lower than the middle part of his legs, were ornamented at the lower part witli precisely the same ninnber of strings of beads as encircled his wrists; besidi's which a string of little brass bells encircled each leg above the ankles, but the fee'. were naked. Thus splendidly clothed, Obie, smiling at his own magnilicencc, siiookliis feet for the bells to tinkle, sat down with the utmost self-couiplacency, and looked around liim. Our story was related to the king in full by the Bonny messenger who had occompanied us from Daumggoo, who a^o dwelt upon the losses which the people of that place and his own had met with at Kirree. If we may be allowed to form an opinion, it was a line piece of savage eloquence. The man's looks and gestures were natural, animated, ibrcible, and strictly in keeping with the feeling, power, and energy with which his expressions were poured forth. Thi; inilections of his voice, also, were truly admirable. This singular speech lasted, as nearly as we could guess, two whole hours, and produced a vi.sible eiVect upon all present. As soon as it was over we were invited by Obie to take some re- I'reshnient; being in truth extremely hungry, we thankfully accepted the ofler, and fish and yams swinmiing in oil were lorthwith brought us on English plates, the king retiring in the meanwhile, from motives of delicacy. The next day, about noon, we were informed that our attendance was re- quired at the king's house, Obie being fully prepared, it was said, to resume the hearing of our ciuse. A common English chair placed in the court, and covered with red cloth, stood ready for the king's use. On the left of the chair stood about fifty of the king's attendants, and to the right of it Bonny, Brass, and the Danmggoo people with our own were assembled. In less than half an hour, the men having in the mean time been rt;raled with a large quantity of palm wine, the monarch dressed in every respect as the day before, entered the yard. His fat, round cheeks were swelling with good humour, real or assumed, as he shook hands with a sprightly air, and instantly sat himself down to receive the prostrations and addresses of his subjects. The business of the day was entered into with spirit, and a violent altercation soon arose between the Brass and Bonny people, but scarcely any part of the conversation was interpreted to us. Sufficient, however, was explained to put us in a very bad humour ; for notwithstanding the opinion we had fonned of the benevolence of the chief, we were assured that we should never leave the coun- try unless ransomed at a high price ! The discussion was violent and strong, and tlie council did not break up till a late hoar in the afternoon. They came to no decision, but were to meet again the ne.\t day. The next day Obie, with a serious countenance, announced his decision. He said that there was no necessity for further discussion respecting the white men, his mind was already made up on the subject ; and for the first time he brielly explained himself to this efiect: — That circumstances having thrown us in the way of his subjects, by the laws and usages of the country, he was not only en- titled to our persons, but had equal right to thos(j of our attendants; that he should take no further advantage of his good Ibrtune than by exchanging us for as much English goods as would amount to twenty slaves ; that he should pre- vent our leaving Uie town, till such time as our countrymen at Brass or Bonny RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 561 should pay for our ransom. Concerning tlie good^ of which we had been rob- bed at Kirrce, he would use his utmost exertions to ffet them restored. He litmented that circumstance more than any one, but denied that a single subject of his liad any thing to do with it, and atlrihuted it to tiie rnshnes.s and brutality ofacertuin people who inhabited a country nearly opposite to hi-t own, whose monarch was his particular friend ; therefore he apprehended little difficulty in seeing justice done us; ' but then,' said he, 'it is necessary that you should wait iiere for an iiidcHnite time, till a council of rhat nation be held, when the plun- derers will be examined and your claims established.' The king was assured that there wtis not the slightest necessity for our deten- tion, that our countrymen would pay the ransom the moment they should see ua, but not belore. But it was all in vain ; it was of no use either to implore or re- monstrate. This determination, however, it will be seen was subsetpiently altered. One evening aftertliis Obie, in his showy coral dress, but barefooted, came to visit us in our hut, to inspect our booUs, and examine the contents of our medi- cine chest. His approach was announced by the jingling of the little bells which encircled his feet. He appeared greatly pleased with every tiling he saw, and looked aghast when ini'ormed of the powerful properties of fome of the medi- cines, which ended in a fit of laughter. He expressed a strong desire to have :i little, especially of the purgatives ; and as we treated the Hultan of Yaoorie and family, so we treated him. Obie was evidently fearful of our books, having been informed that they could " tell all things !" and appeared to shrink with horror at one which was ofi'ered him, shaking his head, saying that he must not accept it, for that it was good only for white men, " whose God was not hiii god!" The next diiy on being introduced to the palace, we found ICing Boy in the inner yard, and from his significant physiognomy, we conjectured that he had something of consequence to communicate. Obie received us with his usual politeness and jocularity, but instantly directed his attention and discourse to King Boy, who maintained an earnest and pretty animated conversation with him for some time. As we were frequently pointed out, and named, we had no doubt whatever that it was chiefly concerning ourselves, which opinion was soon after confirmed. Shortly after the termination of the palaver how transported we were to hear King Boy explain himself in broken English to this effect: "In the conversation which I have just had with Obie, I have been induced to offer him the goods which he demands for your ransom, on the faith that they be hereafter repaid me by the master of the brig Thomas which is now lying in the first Brass River, and that the value of fifleen bars, or slaves, be added thereto in European goods, and likewise a cask of rum, as a remuneration for the hazard and trouble which I shall inevitably incur in transporting you to Brass. If you consent to these conditions, and on these only, I consent to redeem you ; you will fortliwitli give rae a bill on Captain Lake for the receipt of the articles to the value of thirty-five bars, afler which, you will be at liberty to leave this place, and go along with me whenever you may tliink proper, agreeably to the understanding at present ex- isting between Obie and myself. This was heavenly news indeed, and we immediately gave the bill on Mr. Lake, rejoiced at the opportunity which seemed so providentially opened to us of getting down to the sea. Obie perceived by the great and sudden change in our countenances the joy that filled our breasts; and having asked us whether we were not pleaspd with his arrangements, in the fullness of our hearts, he ex- acted from us I 1). rise that on returning to England, we should inform our countrymen d nt. he \ as a good man, and that we would pay him a visit when- ever we should coii'o again into the country. When King . 'oy came for his book, I gave it him, and he wished to send it down to the brig, t.(i know if it was good. This I had expected, so I told him that the book would be of no use unless we were sent along with it, and that the captain would not pay it before be had taken us on board the brig, on which he put it into bia pocket-book. 48 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A {./ ^ .^. ,.v 'iff 4^ ^^ 1.0 1.1 11.25 1^12 US 140 2.5 2.2 ■ 2.0 u 1^ \ ^'^ ^""^ ^ Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTM.N.Y. I4SM (716) 172-4303 '^ ^ 562 KICBARD AND lOBR LANDBK. ■ Fearing that Bomething might vet occor to detain na, and nltimatdly change the kiag'a reaolation altogether, we lost not a moment, but baatened to our lodgings, and having aent oar people on board Boy's canoe, we harried after them imme- diately, and embarked at three in the afternoon. Thia canoe was extremely Itfge and heavily Ia4jen. It was paddled by forty men and boys, in addition to whom there might have been about twenty individuals, so that the whole number would amount to at least six^. At seven in the evening we settled ourselves for the night. King Boy slept on shore with his wife Addizetta, Obie's favourite daughter, and on her account we waited till between seven and eight o'clock in the morn- ing, when she made her appearance with her husband. On stepping into the canoe, with a spirit of gallantry, Boy handed her to the best seal, on a box cloce to which he himself sat, and which we had relinquished in her favour from mo- tives of delicacy. Addizetta might have been between twenty and thirty years of age ; her person was tail, stout, and well proportioned, her countenance round and open, bnt dull, and singularly inexpressive, her forehead was smooth, and shining as polished ebony, her eyes full, large, and beautiful, though languid; her cheeks of a Dutch-like breadth and fulness, her r.ode finely compressed, her mouth pretty, and embellished by a set of elegant teeth, perfectly even and regu- lar, and white as the teeth of a greyhound; her chin — but I cannot describe a c^ lin ; I only know that it agreed well with the other features of the face. Her dress consisted of a piece of figured silk encircling the waist and extending as low aa the knees, her woolly nair tastily braided and enclosed in a tiet, ended in a peak; tlie net was adorned with coral beads, strings of which hung from the crown to the forehead. She wore necklacrs of the same cost!/ bead, copper rings encircled her fingers and great toes, bracelets of ivory her vvrists, and euor- mous rings ako of elephant's tusks decorated her legs, near the &nkle, by which she was almost disabled from walking, on account of their prodigious weight and immense size. Her person was tattooed in various parts, and by the side of each eye near the temple vein was formed the representation of the point of an arrow. About ten in the morning a mess of fish, boiled with yams and plantains, was provided for breakfast. As King Boy was fearful that our presence might in- commode his lady, we were desired to move farther back, that she might eat with additional confidence and comfort, for alas! we were not placed on an equality with Addizetta and her kingly spouse. No two individuals in the world have had greater reason to complain of die- tnrbed slumbers or nighdy watching than ourselves. Hitherto it had been occa- ■ioned chiefly \iy exposure to damps, rains, and dews, mosquito attacks, frightful and piercing noises, or over-fatigue, or anxiety of mind. But now in the ab- sence of most of these causes, we were cramped for want of room, insomuch that we found it impossible to* place ourselves in a recumbent posture without having the heavy legs of Mr. and Mrs. Boy, with their prodigious ornaments ot' ivory, placed either on our faces or on our breasts. It would be ridiculous to suppose that one could enjoy the refreshment of sleep, when two or more un- covered legs and feet, huge, black, and rough, were traversing one's face and body, stopping up the passages of respiration, and pressing so heavily as at times to threaten suffocation. I could not long endure so serious an inconve- nience, but preferred last night to sit up in the canoe. My brother was indir- Eoaed and unable to follow my example, and therefore I endeavoured, if possi- le, to render his situation more tolerable. With this object in view, I pinched the feet of our snoring companiona, Mr. and Mrs. Boy, till the pain caused them lo awake and remove Uiem from hia face. We continued our course down the riy^r until about two hours after mid- night, when we stopped near a small village, and taking my matin my hand, I went on shore determined, if poaaible, to sleep on the ground. Overcome by fatigue, and the fear of being attacked by alligatora, or any thing eke, I selected a di7 place and bid myself down on my mat. I had neariy dropped asleep when i was roused by aeveral severe atings, and fonnd myaell' covered with black ants. They had got up my trowMn, ara were tennentiii| me dreadfully. At first MCHABD AND JOHN LANDKE. 663 I knew not what to do. and ran about as Tast as I coald with the idea of ihakini' them off, bat with all my endeavoun, it was long before I could get rid of them. Our men, Pascoe, Sam, and Jowdie, seeing the condition I was in, landed froRi the canoe, and made large fires in the form of a ring. I laid down in the midst of them and slept till day-light. The sting of a black ant b quite as painful as that of a wasp. In about four days from the time of leaving the Eboe country, the travellers under conduct of King Boy and his escort, arrived at Brass town, which stands about sixty miles from the ocean. It is described as a most wretched, filthy, and abominable place. Properly speaking, it consisted of two towns, one of them under the domination of a noted scoundrel called King Jacket, and the other governed by a rival chief named King Forday. This chief soon sent Richard Lander a summons to visit him, and he accordingly complied with it. His house stood about a hundred yards from that of King Boy, with whom the travellers were lodged. On entering it, Richard Lander says, I found him sitting half- drunk, with about a dozen of his wives and a number of dogs in a filthy room. I was desired to sit down by his side, and to drink a glass of rum. He then gave me to understand as well as he could that it was cusitouiary for every white man who came to the river, to pay him four bars. I expressed my igrin ranee and surprise at this, but was soon silenced by bis saying " That is my demand, and I shall not allow you to leave this town until you give me a book for that amount." Seeing that I had nothing to do but to comply with his demand, I gave him a bill on Lake, the commander of the English vessel, after which i;e said, "To-morrow ^'ou may go to the brig, and take one servant with you : but your mate," mean> ing my brother, " must remain here with your seven people, until my son. King Boy, shall bring the goods for himself and me ; after this they snail be sent on board without delay." Much as I regretted the necessity of parting with my brother, I was obliged to agree to this arrangement ; and with the hopes of profi^ ing by it, I told King Forday that we were all very hungry, and begged him to send us a fowl or two ; which he prnmisAd to do. In order that I might make a decent appearance before my countrymen, I was obliged to sit all the afternoon with an old cloth wrapped round me, until my clcthes were washed and dried. Six o'clock in the evening came, and the mean old king sent us neither fowls nor yams. This was the most starving place that we had yet seen. Mr. Gun gave us two meals, consisting of a little pounded yam, and fish stewed in palm oil, and for this he had the impudence to demand two muskets in payment. These fellows, like the rest on the coast, were a set of imposing rascals, little better than downright savages. We were told that they had lately absolutely starved three white men to death, who were wrecked in a slaving vessel when crossing the bar. The next day, agreeable to the arrangment imposed upon him by King For- day, Richard Lander with one attendant, leaving his brother and the othen of his party at Brass town, embarked with King Boy on board his canoe, and the next morning arrived in the main branch of the Q,uorra river, which is called the river Nun, or the First Brass River, having entered it, he says, opposite to a large branch, which King Boy informed me runs to Benin. The direction of the river Nun was here nearly north and south, and we kept on our course down the stream. • About a quarter of an hour after we had entered the river Nun, we descried, at a distance before us two vessels lying at anchor. The emotions of delight which the sight of them occasioned were quite beyond my powers of description. The one nearest to us was a schooner, a Spanish slave vessel, whose captain we had seen at Brass town. Our canoe was quickly by her side, and I went on board. The raptain received me very kindly, and invited me to take some spirits and water widi him. We next directed our course to tlie English brig, which was lying about three huadrad yards lower down the river. Having reached her with feelings of de* light mingled with doubt, I went on board. Here I found every thing in a sad . condition: four of the crew had fwi died of fever ; four more which completed ike whole, were lying tick in their hammocks, and the captain appeared to ba 564 RICHARD AND JOHN LANDEB. in the very last stage of illness. I now stated to him who I was, explained my situation to him as well as I could, and had my instructions read to him by one of his own people, that he might see I was not imposing on him. I then re- quested that ne would redeem us by paying what had been demanded by King Ucy, and assured him that whatever he might give i> him on our account, would certainly be repaid to him by the British government. To my utter surprii^e and consternation, he flatly refused to give u Hingle thing, and ill and weak as he was, made use of the most offensive and shameful oaths I ever heard. " If you think, " said he, " that you have a fool to deal with, you are mistaken : I'll not give a b y flint for your bill ; I would not give a for it." Petrified witli amazement, at such conduct, I shrunk from him with terror. I could scarcely believe what I heard till my ears were assailed with a repetition of the c^ame. Disappointed beyond measure at such brutal conduct from one of my own countrymen, my feelings totally overpowered me, and I was ready to sink witli grief and shame. Returning to the canoe, I told I^ng Boy that he must take us to Bonny, as plenty of English ships were there. " No, no," said he, " dis captain no pay. Bonny captain no pay ; I wont take you any further." As this would not do, I again had recourse to the captain, and implored him to do something forme, telluig him if he would let me have only ten muskets. Boy might be content with them, when he found that he could get nothing else. The only reply I received was, " I have told you already I will not let you have even a flint, so bother me no more." " But 1 have a brother and eight people at Brass town," I said to him ; " and if you do not intend to pay King Boy, at least persuade him to bring them here, or else he will poison or starve my brother before I can get any assis- tance from a man-of-war, and sell all my people." The only answer I received was, " If you can get ihem on board, I will take them away ; but as I have told you before, you do not g'^t a flint from me." I then endeavoured to persuade Boy to go back for ray people, and that he shouiu he paid some time or other. " xes," said the captain, "make haste and bring them." Boy very naturally required some of his goods before he went, and it was with no small difficulty I prevailed on him to go without them. He, however, got ready to depart, and I sent my man in hia canoe with a note foi my brother. I desired him to give Antonio a note on any EngUsh captain he might And at Bonny for his woges, and also one for the Oamuggoo people, that they might receive the small present I had promised to their good old chief At two in the ailemoon, King Boy leA me, promising to return with my brother and people in three days, but grumbliug at not having been paid his goods. The next morning Captain Lake seemed to be much better and I ventured to ask him for a change of linen, of which I was in great want. He read'ly com- plied with my request. In the course of the morning I conversed wuh him about our travels, related to him the particulars of our conditon, pointed out the injurious consequences that would result from not keeping our word with King Boy, and again asked him to give me ten muskets for my bill on Government. He had listened to my story with attention, but I no sooner advanced my wants, than with a furious oath he repeated his refusal, and finding him as deterniined as ever he had been, I mentioned it no more. He moreover told me, in the most unkind and petuleiit manner, " If your brother and people are not here in three days, I go without them." Fearing he would do this, I took an opportunity of begging him, in the event of my brother and men not arriving by the ii3d,' (the expiration of the three days) to wait a little longer for them, asserting that if he went away without them, they would be assuredly starved or sold as slaves, but he replied, " I rant help it, I shall wait no longer." The 22d I was on the look<«ut the whole day for him and our men. Lake, observing die distress I was in, told me not to trouble myself any more about them ; adding, that he was sure he was dead, and that I need not expect to see him again. " If he had been alive", said Lake, " he would have been here by tiiis time ; to-morrow morning I shall leave *he river^" The next morning, to my great joy and the mortification of Lake, the sea- RICHARD AND JOttS LANDER. 565 hreese was so strong as to raise a considerable surf on the bar, and prevented us from getting out. This was an anxious time, and the whole of the day my eyes were riveted to the part of the river where I knew my brother must come, witk out my seeing any thing of him. The day passed away in tedious watching, end the night was far spent without my seeing him. About midnight, I saw several large canoes malting their way over to the west bank of the river, in one of which I imagined I could distinguii^h my brother. I observed them soon aAer land, and saw, by the fires which tliey made, that they had encamped under some mangrove trees. All my apprehensions vanished in an instant, and I was over- joyed with tlie thoughts of meeting my brother in the morning. The Captain of tlie brig having obaen-ed them, suddenly exclaimed: — ^"Now^ we shall have a little fighting to-morrow ; go you and load seventeen muskets, and put five buck-shot into each. I will take care that the cannon shall be load- ed to the muzzle with balls and flints, and if there is any row, I will give them Much a scouring as they never had." He then directed me to place the muskets and cutlasses out of sight, near the stem of the vessel, and said to me ; — ^The in- stant your people come on board call them aA, and let them stand by the arms. Tell them, if there is any row, to arm themselves directly, and drive all the Brass jieople overboard." This was summary work, with a vengeance, and ever}- thing betokened that Lake was in earnest. In the morning at day-break, I was on the lookout for my brother, and ob- served him and &e people get into the canoe. They had no sooner embarked than they all landed agam, which I could account for in no other way than by supposing that it was tlie intention of Boy to keep them on shore until he had received his goods. I was not long in this state of anxiety, for at about seven o'clock they embarked and were brought on board. My station, during the time the canoe was coming from the shore to ttie ves- sel, had been by the cannon ; it wad the only one on board, but had been loaded as Lake had directed, and pointed to the gangway of the brig where the Brass people must come. The muskets were all ready, lying concealed where Lake had directed them to be placed, and he repeated the same orders that he had given me yesterday, respecting the part my people were to take in the business. Lake received my brother civUly, but immediately expressed his determination to dismiss Boy without giving him a single article, and to make the best of his way out of the river. Meanwhile King Boy, full of gloomy forebodings, had been lingering about the deck. He had evidently foresight enough to suspect what was to take place, and he appeared troubled and uneasy, and bewildered in thonsht. The poor fellow was quite an aJtered person ; his habitual haughtiness had entirely fbrMdi- en him, and given place to an humble and cringing demeanour. A plate of meat was presented him, of which he ate sparingly, and showed clearly that he was thinking more of his promised goods than of his appetite, and a quantity of rum that was given him was drank carelessly, and without dfording any appa- rent satisfaction. Knowing how things were like to terminate, we endeavour- ed to get Boy into a good humour by telling him he should certainly have his goods some time or other, but it was all to no purpose, the present was the only thing in his mind. I rummaged over the few things left us from our disaster at Kirree, and found, to my suprise, five silver bracelets wrapped up in a piece of flannel. I was not aware of having these, and immediately offered them to him, along witli a native sword — a great curiosity, which we had brought with us from Yarriba. with the intention of taking it to England. Boy accepted of these, and my brother then offered him his watch. This was refused with disdain, for Boy knew not its value ; and callinc one of his men to look at what he said we wish- ed to impose on him in lieu of nis ban, both of tiiem, with a significant groan, turned fVom us with acorn amd indignation, nor wouM they speak to us or even look at U8 again. Boy now ventured to approach Captain Lake on the quarter deck, and with an anxious, petitioning countenance, asked for the good* which bad been prom- ised him, nepared for the desperate game he wee about to play, it waa Ine ob- 46" 566 RTCQARD AND JOHN LANDES. ject of Lake to gain as much time as possible that he might get bis vessel under way before he name to an open rupture. Therefore he pretended to be busy in writing, and desired Boy to wait a moment. Becoming impatient with delay, Boy repeated his demand a second and a third time, " Give me my bar^i." <'i NO WILL," said Lake, in a voice of thunder, " I no will, I tell you ; I won't give you a flint." Terrified by the demeanour of Lake, and the threats and oaths he made use of, poor King Boy suddenly retreated, and seeing men going aloft to loosen the sails, apprehensive of being carried off to sea, he quickly dis- appeared from the deck, and was soon observed making his way on shore m hiu canoe, with the rest of his people ; this was the lost we saw of him. At ten in the morning, the vessel was got under way and we dropped down the river. At noon the breeze died away, and we were obliged to let go an anchor to prevent our drifting on tlie western breakers at the mouth of the riv- er. A few minutes more would have been fatal to us, and the vessel was fortu- nately stopped, although the depth of water where she lay was only five fathomx. The rollers which came into the river over the bar were so high that they some- times passed nearly over the bow of the vessel, and caused her to ride very un- easily by her anchor. The vessel rode very uneasy all night, in consequence of the long heavy waves which set in from the bar, and w hich are called by the sailors ^rounrfstoe^. About eleven we got under way, but were obliged to anchor again in the after- noon, as the water was not deep enough for the vessel to pass the bar. The next moniing, the wind favouring us, we made another attempt at getting out of the river- We had already made some progress v/hen the wind again died away, and the current setting us rapidly over to the eastern breakers, we were obliged to let go an anchor to save us from destruction. Immediately the tide rushed past the vessel at the rate of eight miles an hour. We passed a restless and most uneasy night. The Captain and the people were much alarmed for the safety of the brig. The heavy ground swell which set in, increased by the strength of the tide, caused her to pitch and labour so hard that a man was placed to watch the cable, and give notice the moment it complained. Daylight had scarcely dawned when the pall of the windlass broke. The chain cable ran out so swiftly that in half a minute the windlass wiis broken to atoms. My brother and I, with our people, rendered all the assistance in our power to prevent the ship from drifting. We succeeded in fastening the cable to ringbolts, but soon the ringbolts were fairly drawn out of the deck by the strain on the cable. About eight o'clock in the morning, a terrific wave, called by sailors a sea, struck the vessel with tremendous force and broke the chain cable. " The cable is gone," shouted a voice, and the next instant the Captain cried out in a firm, collected tone, " cut away the kedge," which was promptly obeyed, and the ves- sel was again stopped from drifting among the breakers. We were riding by the kedge, a small anchor, on which the safety of the brig now depended. The breakers were close under our stern, and this was not ex- pected to hold ten minutes — it was a forlorn hope — every eye was fixed on the raging surf, and every heart thrilled with agitation, expecting every moment that tlie vessel would be dashed in pieces. A few long and awful minutes were pas- sed in this state, which have left an indelible impression on our minds. Never shall I forget the chief mate saying to me, " Now, Sir, every one for himself; a few minutes will be the last of us." The tumultuous sea was raging in moun- tainous waves close by us, their foam dashing against the sides of the brig, which was only prevented from being carried among them by a weak anchor and ca- ble. The natives, from whom we could expect no favours, were busy on shore making large fires, and other signals for us to desert the vessel and land at cer- tain places, e.v.[ ecting, no doubt, eyery moment to see her a prey to the waves, and those who escaped their fury to (all into their hands. Wretched resource ! the sea would have been far more merciful than they. Such was our perilous situation, when a fine sea-breeze set in which literally saved us iVom destruction. The sails were loosened to relieve the anchor from the stmin of the vessel, and aha rode out tiM ebb tide without drifting. At tea % RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER. 667 A. M. the tide had nearly ceased ranning out, and the fury of the sea rather abated. At half-past ten tlie wind fell light, and instead of drifting over to the western breakers as yesterday and the day before, the brig was now set towards those on the eastern side, and again we had a narrow escape. But with the as- sistance of the beat, and good management, we at length passed clear over the bar on the edge of the breakers, in a depth of water less than three fathoms, and made sail to the eastward. Our troubles were now at an end; by the pro- tection of a merciful Providence, we had escaped dangers, the very thoughts of which had filled our hearts with horror; and with a grateful heart and tears of joy for all his mercies, we offered up a silent prayer of thanks for our deliv- erance. The great problem of the termination of the Niger was now solved ; Richard and John Lander, beginning at the point where Park lost his life in the attempt, had the honour of being the first Europeans to traverse it to its termination, and to behold it, with absolute certainty, mingling its far descending waters with the waves of the ocean in the bay of Benin. In two days time. Captain Lake landed them in the island of Fernando Po, whence they took passage for Rio Janeiro, and thence sailed to England, where they arrived and landed at Portsmouth, June 9th, 1831 , having been absent about one year and four months. Richard Lander, leaving his brother here, hastened to London, where he arrived the next morning, and reported their discovery to Lord Godericb, his Majesty's Colonial Secretary. SAMUEL HEARNE. SAMtTEL Hkarne was bom in London in the year 1742. For a short time in early lire he was a midshipman in the navy. Having entered into the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, he soon gave proof of his zeal and ability, in ex- amining the northern coast of Hudson's Bay, and in improving the fishery. The native Indians, who range over rather than inhabit the large tract of coun- try north of Churchill river, having repeatedl)[ brought specimens of copper ore to tlie company's factory, it was plausibly conjectured that these had been found not far from the British settlements ; and as the savages affirmed that the mines were not very distant from a large river, it was imagined, most erroneously, as was proved by the result, that this stream must emp^ itself into Hudson's Bay. In 1768, the Indians who came to trade at Prince of Wales' Fort brought further accounts of this river, exhibiting at the same time samples of copper, which they affirmed to be the produce of a mine in its vicinity. The governor now deter- mined to despatch an intelligent person across the continent to obtain more pre- cise information. Samuel Hearne was chosen for this service, a man of great hardihood and sagacity, bred in the employment of thd company, and who, with- out pretensions to high scientific attainments, possessed sufficient knowledge to enable him to coa^truct a chart of the country tlirough which he travelled. His instructions directed him to proceed to the borders of the country of the Athabas- ca Indians, where it wits expected he would meet with a river represented by the Indians to abound with copper ore, and to be so far north that in the middle of summer the sun did not set. It was called by the natives Neetha-sansan Da- zey, or the Far-off Metal River; and Mr. Hearne was directed to explore its course to the mouth, where he was to determine the latitude and longitude, to ascertain whether it was navigable, and to judge of the practicability of a setll<>- ment. He was enjoined also to examine the mines alleged to exist in that dis- trict, the nature of the soil and its productions, and to make every inquiry and observation towards discovering the north-west passage. On the 6th of November, 1769, he set out from Uie Prince of Wales' Fort, Hudson's Bay, upon his perilous'journey. He was accompanied by two Eng- lishmen only — Ilbester, a sailor, and Merriman, a landsman ; by two of the Home Guard Souuiem !ndian»--4 name given to those natives residing as servants on the company's plantation, and employed in hunting ; and by eight Northern In- dians, under tlie command of Captam Chawchina]^aw and Lieutenant Nabyah. He was provided with amunition for two years, some necessary iron imple- ments, a few knives, tobacco, and other useful articles. As to his personal out- fit, his stock consisted simply of the shirt and clothes he wore, one spare coat, a pair of drawers, as much cloth as would make two or three pairs of Indian stock- mgs, and a blanket for his bed. " The nature of traveUing long joumies," he observes, "in these countries will not admit of carrying even the most common article of clothing; so that die traveller is obUged to depend on the district he traverses for hia dress as well as .his sustenance." The baseness and treachery of the Indians, however, soon put a period to the first journey, and the desertion of Chawchinahaw with his whole escort rendered it absolutely necessary for the little party to make the best of their way back to the fort, where they arrived ■•is. SAMUEL HEABNE. 669 on the 8lh of December, aAer penetrating only two hundred miles into the interior. It was now determined to resume the expedition with greater precautions against failure. The Indian women, who accompanied their husbands in the first journey, were left behind, as were the two Englishmen, who had been of little service ; and instead of the treacherous Chawchinahaw, Heame selected an Indian named Connequeesee, who affirmed he was acquainted with the coun- try, having once been near the river, the discovery of which formed one great object of the journey. Attended by tliis man, along with three Northern in- diana and two of the Home-guard natives, the traveller once more set out, on the 23d February, while the snow was so deep on the top of tlie ramparts of the fort that few of the cannon could be seen. After undergoing the severest ex- tremeties from hunger and fatigue, Mr. Heame reached, in August, the river Doobaunt, in latitude 63 deg. 10 min. north. The progress thus far, however, had been painful beyond measure, owing to the difficulty of pushing forward through a wild unexplored country, intersected with rivers, lakes, and woods, at the outset thickly covered with snow ; and on the approach of the warmer months so flooded and marshy as to render travelling on foot inexpressibly fa- tiguing. To add to this, the voracity, improvidence, and indolence of the In- dians, subjected the party to repeated distress. If from fishing or hunting a lar- ger supply than usual was procured, instead of using it with modetation, and laying up a store for future necessities, all was devoured by the savages, who, like ihe boa after he has gorged his prey, coiled themselves up, and remained in s state of sleepy torpor till the call ol' hunger again roused them to activity. At first die party subsisted without difficulty on the fish which abounded in the lakes and rivers ; but in the beginning of April they entirely disappeared ; and as the " goose season," or period when the geese, swans, ducks, and other migratory birds resort to these latitudes, was yet distant, they began to suffer grievously for want of provisions. Occasionally they were relieved by killing a few deer or musk-oxen ; but the ground and the brushwood were so saturat- ed with moisture from the melting of the snow, that to kindle a fire was impos- sible ; with their clothes drenched in rain, their spirits depressed, they were com- pelled to eat their meat raw — a necessity grievous at all times, but in the case of the flesh of the musk-ox. which is rank, tough, and strongly impregnated with the sickening substance from which it derives its name, peculiarly repulsive and unwholesome. The simple and modest manner in which these severe suflerings are describ- ed by Heame is peculiarly striking. " The record," says he, "in detail of each day's fare since the commencement of this joumey would be little more tliao a (lull repetition of the same circumstances. A sufficieut idea of it may be given in a few words, by observing, that it may justly be said to have been either all feasting or all famine; sometimes we had too much, seldom just enough, fre- quently too litde, and often none at all. It will be only necessary to say, that ^e lasted many times two whole days and nights, twice upwards of three days, and once, while at Shenanhee, near seven days, during which we tasted not a mouUiful of any thing, except a few cranberries, water, scraps of old leather, and burnt bones." On these pressing occa.sions Hearne oftetv saw the Indians examine their wardrobe, which consisted chiefly of skin clothing, considering attentively what part could best be spared, when sometimes a piece of half rotten deer-skin, at others a pair of old shoes would be sacrificed to alleviate ex- treme hunger. " None of our .natural wants," he observes, " if we except thirst, are so distressing or hard to endure as hunger, and in wandering situations like that which I now experienced, the hardship is greatly aggravated by the uncer- tainty with regard to its duration, and the means most proper to be used to remove it, as well as by the labour and fatigue we must necessarily undergo for that pur- pose, and the disappointments which too frequenUy frastrated our best concert- ed plans and most strenuous exertions. It not only enfeebles the body, but de- presses the spirits, in spite of every effort to prevent it. Besides which, for want of action, the stomach so far looses its digestive powers, that after a long fast, it resumes its office with pain and reluctance. Daring this journey I have too 670 SAMUEL HBABNB. frequently experienced the dreadful eflfecta of this calamity, and more than onc« been reduced to so low a state by hunger, that when Providence threw any thing in my way, my stomach has been scarcely able to retain more than two or three ounces without producing the most oppressive pain." On the 30th of June they arrived at a small river called Cathawhachaga, which empties itself into White Snow Lake, in 64 deg. north latitude. Here, as the Suide declared they could not that summer reach the Coppermine River, Ilearne etermined to pass the winter, with the intention of pushing on to his destina- tion in 1771. They accordingly forsook their northward route, and taking a westerly course were joined in a few days by many troops of wandering In- dians; so that by the 30th of Julv they mustered about seventy tents, contain- ing nearly six hundred souls, and ou moving in the morning the whole ground seemed alive witli men, women, children, and dogs. The deer were so plenty that, though lately five or six individuals had almost perished with hunger, thi'n numerous body supported themselves with great ease, and often killed their game for the skins, leaving the carcass to be devoured by the foxes. In thit* manner, engaged alternately in hunting and fishing, making observations on the country, and studying the extraordinary manners of his associates, the English traveller was preparing for his winter sojourn, when an accident rendered his quadrant useless, and compelled him, on the 13th of August, to set out on his return to the fort. The hardships he endured on his route homeward were various and accumu- lated. He was plundered by the Northe.rn Indians, who, adding insult to injury, entered his tent, smoked a pipe which they filled with the white man's tobacco, asked to see his luggage, and without waiting for an answer turned the bag inside out, and spread every article on the ground. The work of appropriation was equally rapid, and ths empty bag was flung to the owner; but a fit of compunc- tion seizing them, they restored a knife, an awl, and a needle. On begging hard for his razors, they consented to give up one, and added soap enough to shave him during the remainder of his journey, making him understand that the sur- render of these articles called for his warmest gratitude. As the cold weather approached, the party thus plundered suflfered grievous- ly for want of that warm deer-skin clothing used by the Indians at this season. A dress of this kind is rather costly, requiring the prime parts of from eight to eleven skins. These Ilearne at last managed to collect; but as the Indian women alone could prepare them, he was compelled to carry thi.s load along with him from day to day, earnestly begging the natives, at each successive resting place, to permit their wives to dress his skins. He met, however, with a surly and uniform refusal; and at last, after bearing the burden for several weeks, was forced to throw it otf, and sustain the cold as he best could, without either skin- clothing or snow-shoes. When, continuing their course in this forlorn condition to the southeast, they met with Captain Matonabbee, a powerful and intelligent chief, who was then on his way to Prince of Wales' Fort, with furs and other articles of trade. It was this person who brought the accounts of the Copper- mine River, which induced the company to fit out the expedition, and he was naturally interested in its success. He evinced the utmost activity in relieving their wants, furnished them with a warm suit of otter and other skins, and, not being able to provide them with snow-shoes, directed them to a small range of woods, where they found materials for both shoes and sledges. Matonabbee then treated the party to a feast, and took occasion in his conversation with Heame to explain the causes of his failure, and to offer his assistance in a third expedition. He attiibuted all their misfortunes to the misconduct of the guide, and to their having no women with them. " In an expedition of this kind," said he, " when the men are all so heavily laden that they can neither hunt nor trav- el to any considerable distance, in case they meet with success in hunting who is to carry the produce of their labour? Women were made for labour ; one of them can carry or haul as much as two men can do. They also pitch our tents, make and mend our clothing, keep us warm at night; and, in tiict, there is no such thing as traveUing any considerable distance, or for any length of time, in this country, without mem ; and yet, though they do every thing, they are main- .V ■AMUBL HBARNE. 571 uinad at • trifliof ezpenM ; Tor, aa they always cook, the very lickint of their fingera, in acarce timea, israfficient for their ■ubairrtence." Aniited by ihia Ariend* \j chief, the English traveller again set forward, and aAer experiencing an in- tense degree of cold, by which the favourite doc in his sledge woa frozen to death, he reached the fort on the 25th of November, having been absent eight months and twenty-two days. Matonabbee arrived a few days after. Though twice compelled to return, Heame, whose spirit was not to be over- come by fatigue or disappointment, offered his services to proceed on a third journey, which was ultimately crowned with success. For this he engaged Mat- onabbee as guide, and declined taking any Home-gunrd Indians. 'I'heir place, however, was occupied, according to the principles already laid down, by seven of Matonabbee's wives, who, by the assistance they afforded did no disparage- ment to the singular picture of female activity which he had drawn. Tney set out on the 7th of December, and notwithstanding frequent privations, want of food, and intense cold, their sufferings were not so aggravated as in the former attempts. The country through which they passed towards the west was wild and barren, occasionally covered with thick shrubby woods of stunted pine and dwarf juniper, studded with fre(|uent lakes and swamps, whose sides were fring- ed with willows. Through this ground they travelled in high spirits, but on rather short commons, owing to the scarcity of deer, and the improvidence of the Indians, who consumed every thing in store during the first days of their march, trusting to find a stock of provisions which they had hid in a certain spot on their way to the fort. On reaching the place, however, they discovered t^at the provisions had been carried off; and the equanimity with which thr Indians bore the disappointment, and travelled forward under the conjoined miseries of hun- l^er and fatigue, was very striking. At last they succeeded in killing a few deei, and halted to take some refreshment. For a whole day they never ceased eat- ing, and an additional repast on two large buck deer, which they killed a few days after, at last fairly overcame Captain Matonabbee, who, afler devouring at one sitting as much as would have satisfied six moderate men, seemed somewhat un- reasonably astonished to find himself indisposed. Having recovered from the effects of this surfeit, they proceeded from Island I^e toward the main branch of the Cathawhachaga, which they crof ed, and directing their course by Patridge Lake, and Snow Bird Luke, arrived on the 2d of March at a large tent of Northern Indians, not far from the Doobaunt Whoie River. Although these people had remained in the same spot since the begin- ning of winter, they found a plentiful subsistence by catching deer in a pound. Their mode of accomplishing this is to select a well frequented deer path, and enclose with a strong fence of twisted trees and brush wood a space of about a mile in circumference, and sometimes more. The entrance of the pound is not larger than a common gate, and its inside is crowded with innumerable ^mall hedges, in the openings of which are fixed snares of strong well twisted thongs. One end is generaUy fastened to a growing tree ; and as all the wood and jun^ gle within the enclosure is left standing, its interior forms a complete labynnth. On each side of the door, a line of small trees, stuck up in the snow fifteen or twenty yards apart, form two sides of an acute angle, widening gradually from the entrance, from which they sometimes extend two or three miles. Between these rows of brushwood runs the path frequented by the deer. When all things are prepared, the Indians take their station on some eminence commanding a prospect of this path, and the moment any deer are seen going that way, the whole encampment, men, women, and children, steal under cover of the woods till they get behind them. They then show themselves in the open ground, and, drawing up in the form of a crescent, advance with shouts. The deer, finding themselves pursued, and at the same time imagining the rows of brushy poles to be people stationed to prevent their passing on either side, run straight forward till they get into the pound. The Indians instantly close in, block up the en- trance, and while the women and children run round the outside to prevent them from breaking or leaping the fence, the men enter with their spears and bows, and speedily dispatco such aa are caught in the snarea or are running looM. 572 SAMUEL HEARNE. On the 8(h of April, they reached an island in a nmall lake named Thelewey- aza-wetii, and pitched their tent; and as the deer were numerous, and ttie party, which had been joined by various wandering Indians, now amounted to seventy persons, they determined to remain for some time, and make preparationH for their enterprise in the ensuing summer. They were busily employed during tlieir intervals from hunting, iu providing staves of birch about one and a quarter inch square and seven or eight feet long, which served for tent-poles all the sum- mer, and were converted into snow-shoes in winter. Birch-rind, with timbers and other wood for canoes, fonned also objects of attention ; and us Clowey. the place fixed upon for building their canoes, was still many vaWea distant, all the wood was reduced to its proper size to make it light for carriage. At this place Matonabbee solaced himself by purchasing of some Northern Indians an- other wife, who for size and sinews, might have shamed a grenadier. "Take them in a body," says Heame, " and the Indian women are as destitute of real beaut;^ as those f any nation lever saw, although there are some few of them when' young who are tolerable; but the care of a family, added to their couHtant hard labour, soon make the most beautiful among them look old and wrinkled, even before they ore thirty, and several of the more ordinary ones at that age are perfect antidotes to the tender passion Ask a Northern Indian, What is beauty 1 he will answer, A broad flat face, small eyes, high cheek-bones, three or four broad black lines acioss narh chtsek, a low forehead, a large brood chin, a hook nose, and a tawny hide. These beauties are greatly heightened, or at least ren- dered more valuable, if the possessor is capable of dressing all kinds of skint;, and able to carry eight or ten stone in summer, and to haul a far greater weight in wint'ir. Such and similar accomplishments are all that are stmght after or ex- pected in an Indian Northern woman. As to their temper, it is of little conw- quenee ; for the men have a wonderful facility in making the most stubbont comply with as much alacrity as could be expected from those of the mildest and most obliging turn of mind." Before starting from this station, Matonabbee took the precaution of sending in advance a small party with the wood and birch-rind; they were directed to press forward to Clowey, a lake near the barren ground, and there build the boat. to be ready upon their arrival. When the journey was about to be resumed, one of the women was taken in labour. The moment the poor creature was de- livered, '* which," says Hearne, "was not till she had suffered a severe labour of fi%-two hours," the signal was made for setting forward; the mother took her infant on her back, and walked with the rest ; and though another person had the humanity to haul her sledge for one day only, she was obliged to carry a con- siderable load in addition to her little one, and was compelled tirequently to wade knee-deep in water and wet snow. Amid all this, her looks, pale and emaciated, and the moans which burst from her, sufficiently proved the intolerable pain she endured, but produced no effect upon the hard hearts of her husband and his companions. When an Indian woman is taken in labour, a small tent is erected for her, at such a distance from the encampment that her cries cannot be heard, and the other women are her attendants, no male except children in amis, ever offering to approach ; and even in the most critical cases no assistance is ever given, — a conduct arising from the opinion that nature is sufficient to perform all that is necessary. When Heame informed them of the assistance derived by European women from the skill and attention of regular practitioners, their an- swer was ironical and characteristic. " No doubt," said they, " the many hump- backs, bandy-legs, and other deformities so common among you English are owing to the great skill of the persons who assisted in bringing them into the world, and to the extraordinary care of their nurses aAerward." In eleven days they travelled a distance of eighty-five miles, and on the 3d of May arrived at Clowey, where they were joined by some estrange Indians, and commenced tlie important business of building their canoes. The party sent ahead for this purpose arrived only two days before, and had made no progress in joining the timbers they had carried along with them. The whole tools used by an Indian in this operation, in making snow-shoes, and all other kinds of wood-work, are a hatchet, a knife, afile, and an awl ; but in the use of these they SAMUEL IIEARNB. 673 ■re very ae^terone. In shape, their canoes bear some resemblance to a weaver*! xhuttle, Having flut bottoni:*, with Htruit upii^^ht xiJe'*, and nharp at each end. The Htern i8 the widexttpart, being constructed for the reception of the baf^guge; and occasionally it odmibia second perKon, who. lies at full length in the bottom of the little vessel, which seldom exceeds twelve or tliirtceii feet in length, and kbout two feet in breudtli at the widest part The forepart is unnecessarily long and nacrow, and covered witii birch-burk, which adds to the weight without con- tributing to the burden of the canoe. The Indians, for the must part, employ a single paddle; double ones, like those of the Esquimaux, are seldom used un- less by hunters, who lie in ambush for the purpose of killing deer as they cross rivers and narro^ lakes. Upon the whole, their vessels, tliough formed of tlie same materials as those of the iSoutheru Indians, are much smaller and lighter ; and, from the extreme simplicity of build, are the best that could be contiived for the necessities of these poor savages, who are frequently obliged to carry tliemupou their back a hundred and sometimes a hundred and tifty miles, without having occasion to launch ihem. At Ciowey the expedition was joined by nearly two hundred Indians from various quarters, most of whom built canoes tiiere ; and on the 2'M of May, Mr. Hearne and Matonabbee, whose character and r-r<b<* 46' north, Matonahbee deemed it expedient to leave all the women, takiug the precaution to kill as many deer as were necessary for their support during his absence. The flesh was cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun, — a fi-equent mode of preserving it in these high northern latitudes, by which it is kept palatable and nourishing for a twelvemonth. Having completed these arrangements, the party resumed their journey on the 1st of July, proceeding amid dreadful storms of snow, and occa- sional torrents of rain, which drenched them to the skin, through a barren and desolate country, where it was impossible with the wet nioes and green brush- wood to kindle a fire. Compelled to take shelter in caves at night, — for they had no tents,— obliged to eat their meat raw, with the enjoyment of no higher luxury than a pipe, they yet pushed forward with unshaken perseverance, and alier a week of great suftiering had the comfort to observe a complete change in the weather, which first became moderate, and soon afier tut sultry that it was •ometimes impossible to move at all. ,-#- SAMUEL HEARNE. 676 Early on the morning of the 13th of July, the expedition crossed a long chain of hills, from the top of which they discerned a branch that joins the Copper- mine, about forty miles from its influx into the sea. Here the Indians kiUed a few fine buck-deer, procured some excellent firewood, and, as it was not certain that 80 favourable an opportunity would soon occur again, they sat down with appetites sharpened by long privation, spirits raised by the recollection of hard- ships overcome, and the almost certain prospect of ere long accomplishing the great object of their expedition, to the most cheerful and comfortable mealthey had enjoyed for a long period. The reader will be amused with Heame's de- scription of this delicious repast, and of the mysteries of Indian cookery. "As such favourable opportunities of indulging the appetite," says he, "happen but seldom, it is a general rule with the Indians, which we did not neglect, to exert every art in dressing their food which the most refined skill in Indian cooking has been able to invent, and which consists chiefly in boiling, broiling, and roast- ing : but of all the dishes cooked by these people, a bacate, as it is called in their language, is certainly the most delicions (at least for a change) which can be pre- pared from a deer only, without any other ingredient. It is a kind of Scotch ' haggis,' made with the blood, a good quantity of fat shred small, some of the tenderest of the flesh, together with the heart and lungs, cut, or more commonly torn intq small shiver8,--all which is put into the stomach and roasted, by being suspended over the fire by a string. Care must be taken that it does not get too much heat at first, as the bag would thereby be liable to be burnt, and the con- tents let out. When it it is sufficiently done it will emit a rich steam, in the same manner as a fowl or a joint of meat, which is as much as to say, ' Come eat me now !' and if it be taken in time, before the blood or the contents are too much done, it is certainly a most delicious morsel, even without pepper, salt, or any other seasoning." Having regaled themselves in this sumptuous manner, and taken a few hou{s' rest, they once more set out, and after a walk of nine or ten miles, at last arrived at the Coppermine. Scarcely had Heame congratulated himself on reaching the great object of bis mission, unpacked his sun'eying instruments, and pre- pared to follow its progress to the great Arctic Ocean, when one of those dark and terrible scenes occurred which are so strikingly characteristic of savage life. As soon as M atonabbee and his party gained tlie banks of the river, three spies were sent out to discover whether an^ Esquimaux, were in the neighbourhood. After a short absence they returned with intelligence that they had seen five tents, about twelve miles distant on the west side of the river. All was now warlike preparation ; the guns, knives, and spears were carefully examined ; and as they learned that the nature of the ground would render it eas^ to advance unper- ceived, it was determined to steal upon their victims in this manner, and put them to death. This plan was executed with the most savage exactness; and nothing could present a more dreadful view of human nature in its unenlighten- ed state than the perfect unanimity of purpose which pervaded the whole body of Indians upon this horrid oocasion, although at other times they were in no respect amenable to discipline. Each man first painted his target, some with a representation of the sun, others of the moon, and several with the pictures of beasts and birds of prey, or of ima- l>iaary beings, which the^ atfirmed to be the inhabitants of the elements upon v'boae assistance they relied for success in their enterprise. They then moved with the utmost stealth in the direction of the tents, taking care not to cross any of tlie hills which cdncealed their approach. It was a miserable circumstance tliat these poor creatures had taken up their abode in such ground that their ene- mies, without being observed, formed an ambuscade not two hundred yards distant, and lay for sometime watching the motions of the Esquimaux, as if inarkiu|; their victims Here the last preparations for the attack were made : the Indians tied up their long blabk hair in a knot behind, lest it should be blown in their e^es ; painted their liices black and red, which gave them a hideous as- pect; dehberately tucked up the sleeves of their jackets close under the armpila, and pulled off their stockings; while some, still more eager to render themselvei light for running, threw ofl' their jacket*, and stood wiu their weapon* in their 576 flAMITRT. HRtnMK. SAMUEL HEARNE. 677 handa quite naked, except their breech-clothes and shoes. By the time all were ready it wad near one o'clock in the morning ; when, finding the Esquimaux quiet, they rushed from their concealment. In an instant, roused by the shouti of the savages, the unfortunate wretches, men, women, and children, ran naked out of the tents, and attempted to escape ; but the Indians had surrounded them on the land side, and as none dared to leap into the river, all were murdered in cold blood ; while Hearne, whom a regard for his personal safety had compelled to accompany the party, stood a short way off rooted to the ground in nonror and agony. " The shrieks and groans of the poor expiring wretches," says he, in his strik* ing account of this dreadful episode iu savage life, " were truly distressing; and my horror was much increased at seeing a young girl, about eighteen yean of age, killed so near me that when the first spear was stuck into her side she fell down at my feet and twisted round my legs, so that it was with difficulty tliat I could disengage myself from her dying grasps. As two Indian men pur- sued this unfortunate victim, I solicited very hard for her life ; but the mur- derers made no reply till they had stuck both their spears through her body and transfixed her to the ground. They then looKed me sternly in the face, and began to ridicule me by asking if Ixvanted an Esquimaux wife, while they paid not the slightest regard to the shrieks and agony of the poor wretch, w!io v/c<) turning round their spears like an eel. Indeed, after receiving from them much abusive language on the occasion, I was at length obliged to desire that they would be more expeditious in despatching their victim out of her misery, otherwise I should be obliged out of pity to assist in the friendly office of putting an end to the existence of a fellow-creature who was so cruelly wounded. On this request being made, one of the Indians hastily drew his spear from the place where it was first lodged, and pierced it thropgh her breast near the heart. The love of life, however, even in this most miserable state, was so predomin^tnt, that though this might be jusdy called the most merciful act which could be done for the poor creature, it seemed to be unwelcome ; for, though much exhausted by pain and loss of blood, she made several efforts to ward off the friendly blow. My situation and the terror of my mind at beholding this butchery cannot easily be conceived, much less described : though I summed up all the fortitude I was master of on the occasion, it was with difficulty that I could refrain from tears ; and I am confident that my features must have feelingly expressed how sincerely I was affected at the barbarous scene I then witnessed. Even nt hour I can> not reflect on the transactions of that horrid day without shedding tears." After making an accurate survey of the river till its junction with the sea, Hearne proceeded to one of the copper-mines, which he found scarcely to de- serve the name, it being nothing more than a chaotic mass of rocks and gravel, rent by an earthquake, or some other convulsion, into numerous fissures, through one of which flowed a small river. Although the Indians had talked in mag nS- cent terms of this mine, after a search of four hours a solitary piece of ore vrtm oU that could be discovered ; and instead of pointing out the hills composed en- tirely of copper, and the quantity of rich ore with which they had affirmed it would be easy to freight a large vessel, they now told a ridiculous story of some insults offered to the goddess of the mine, who in revenge declared that she would sit upon it till she and it sunk together into the earth. In consequence of this threat, they nsxt year found her sunk up to the waist, and the quantity of copper much decreased, while the following summer she had entirely disappear- ed, aud the whole mine along with her. In reaching the sea, Hearne had accomplished the great object of his journey, and his homeward route did not vary materially from his course to the Arctic Ocean. On the 3l6t of July, they arrived at the place where the Indians had left their families, and on the 9th of August resumed their course to the south- west; traveUing with frequent intervals of rest, till, on the 24th of November, they reached the northern shore of the great Athabasca Luke. In this latitude, at this season, the sun's course formed an extremely small segment of a circle above the horizon, scarcely rising half-way up the trees ; but the brilliancy of the Stan, and the brilliant and beautiftil light emitted by the aurora borealia, even 49* ■'■'i- aw SAMUEL HEABNE. widiouttbeaidofUie mooti, amply compensated for the want of the sun, so that at midnigfat Heame could see to read very small print. In the deep stillneas of the night, also, these northern meteors were heard to make a rushing ami crackling noise, like the waving of a large flag in & f'esh git'.e of wind. Aecord- ing to the information of the natives, the Athabasca Lake is nearly one hundred ai^ twenty leagues long from east to west, and twenty wide from north to south. It was beiautifally studded with islands, covered with tall poplars, birch, and pines, which were plentifully stocked with deer, and abounded with pike, trout, and barbel, besides the species known by the Indians under the name of tittamegj metfay, and shoes. TluB counUy through which they had hitherto travelled had been extremely barren and hilly, covered with stunted firs and dwarf willows; but it now sub- sided into a fine plain, occasionally varied with tall woods, and well stocked witli buffalo and moose-deer. The party spent some days with much pleasure la hunting ; And as the flesh of the younger buffaloes was delicious, their exhausted stock of provisions was seasonably supplied. In one of their excursions an inci- dent occurred strikingly characteristic of savage life. The Indians came sudden- ly on the track of a strange snow-shoe, and following it to a wild part of the country, remote from any human habitation, they discovered a hut, in which a young Indian woman was sitting alone. She had lived for the last eight moons in abrolqte solitude, and recounted with aflecting simplicity the circumstances by which she had been drivei) from her own people. She belonged, she said, to the tribe of the Dog-ribbed Indians, and in an inroad of the Athabasca nation, in the summer of 1770, had been taken prisoner. The savages, according to their invariable practice, stole upon the tents in the night, and murdered before her face her father, mother, and husband, while she and three other young women were reserved from the slaughter, and made captive. Her child, four or five months old, she contrived to carry with her, concealed among some clothing ; but on arriving at the place where the party had left their wives, her preciouH bundle was examined by the Athabasca women, one of whom tore the infant from its mrtther, and killed it on the spot. In Europe, an act so inhuman would, in all probability, have been instantly followed by the insanity of the parent ; but in North America, though maternal affection is equally intense, the nerves arc more sternly strung. So horrid a cruelty, however, determined her, though the man whose property she had become was kind and careful of her, to take the first opportunity of escaping, with the intention of returning to her own nation; but the great distance, and the numerous winding rivers and creeks she had to pass, caused her to lose the way, and winter coming on, she had built a hut in this secluded spot. When discovered, she was in good health, well fed, and in the opinion of Heame one of the finest Indian women he had ever seen. Five or six inches of hoop made into a knife, and the iron shank of an arrow-head, which served as an awl, were the only implements she possessed ; and with these ahe mode snow-shoes and otheY useful articles. For subsistence she snared partridges, rabbits, and squirrels, and had killed two or three beavers and gotrr porcupines. Alter the few deer-sinews she had brought with her were expended in making snares and sewing her clothing, she suppUed their plac with the sinewa of rabbit's legs, which she twisted together with great dexterity. Thus occupied, she not only oecame reconciled to her desolate situation, but had • found time to amuse herself by manufacturing litde pieces of personal orna- ment. Her clothing was formed of rabbit-skins sewed .together ; the materials, though rude, being tastefully disposed so as to make her garb assume a pleasing, though desert-bred appearance. The sin^lar circumstances under wnich she was found, her beauty and useful accomplishments, occasioned a contest amonc the Indians, as tQ who should have her for a wife ; and the matter lieing decided, she accompanied them in their journey. On the Ist of March they left the level country of the Athabascas, and approached the stony hills bounding the teirito- ries of th' Northern Indians, traversing which, they arrived in safety at Prince of Wales' Fort, on the 29th of June, 1772, having been abaent eighteen months and twenty'tbree days. "■V SAMUEL HEARNE. 579 The journey of Hearae miut be regarded as forming an important era in the geography of America. For some time it had been supposed that this vast con- tinent extended in an almost unbroken mass towards the Pole ; and we find it thus depicted in the maps of that period. The circumstance of Heame having reached the shore of the great Arctic Ocean at once demonstrated the fallacy of all such ideas. It threw a new and clear light upon the structure of this portion of the globe, and resting upon the results Uius distinctly ascertained, the ouman mind, indefatigable in the pursuit of knowledge, started forward in a career of still more enlarged and interesting discovery. SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. Whilc the Hudson's Bay Company, by the mission of Mr. Heame, rindicat' ed tiieir character from the charge of mdifference to the cause of geographical discovery, another institution had arisen, under the title of the Nordi W'est Fur Company, which although, in its earliest exertions, it experienced many severe reverses, at last arrived, by the intelligence and perseverance of its partners and servants, at a degree of prosperity which surpassed the chartered companies of France and England. In the counting-house of Mr. Gregory, a partner of this company, was bred a native of Inverness, named Alexander Mackenzie. In conductrng the practical details of the fur trade, he had been settled at an early period of life in the country to the north-west of Lake Superior, and became animated with the ambition of penetrating across the continent: for this under- taking he w|s eminently qualified, possessing an inquisitive and enterprising mind, with . strong frame of body, and combining the fervid and exclusive gen- iM which has been said to characterize the Scots in general, with that more caur tiMU and enduring temperament which belongs to the northern Highlander. SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 581 On the 3d of June, 1789, Mackenzie set out from Fort Chepewyan, at the head of the Athabasca Lake, a station nearly central between Hudson's Bay aud the Pacific. He had resided here for eight years, and was familiar with the difficulties of the journey as well as aware of the most likely methods of sur- mounting them. He took with him four canoes. In the first be embarked witii a German and four Canadians, two of the latter being accompanied by their wives. A Northern Indian, called the' English Chief, who had been a follower of Matonabbee, the guide of Mr. Heame, occupied the second with his two wives. The third was paddled by two stout young Indians, who acted in the double capacity of hunters and interpreters ; while the fourth was laden with provisions, clothing, ainunition, and various articles intended as presents for the Indians. This last canoe was committed to the charge of Mr. Le Rqu.y, one of the company's clerks. On the 4th of June, the party reached Slave River, which connects the Atha- basca and Slave Lakes, in a course of at^out one hundred and seventy miles; and on the 9th of the same month, they arrived at the Slave Luke, without ex- periencing any other inconveniences than those arising from the attacks of the mosquitoes during the heat of the day, and the extreme cold in the morning and evening. In the river were frequent rapids, which obliged them to land and transport their cunoes and luggage over the carrying places, — a toilsome pro- cess, but attended with no danger, as the path had been cleared by the Indians trading with the company. The banks were covered with various kinds of trees ; but, owing to its inferior level and its rich bladk soil, the western side was more tliickly wooded than the other. On the eastern bank, composed of a yel- low clay mixed with gravel, the trees were smaller, but in full leaf, though the ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in depth. At a little distance from the river were extensive plains frequented bj herds of bnifaloes ; the woods bordering its sides were tenanted by moose and reindeer; and numerous colo- nies of beavers built their habitations on the small streams which fed the lake. This large body (rf water was covered with ice, which had not given way except in a small strip round the shore, where the depth, nowhere exceeding three feet, was scarcely sufficient to float the canoes. Though now the 9th of June, there was every appearance that the ice would detain the expedition for a considera- ble time ; and it was thought necessary to pitch their tents. The nets were now Het; the Indians went off in different directions to hunt; the women gathered berries of various sorts, which abounded in the neighboring woods ; and their larder was soon supplied with plenty of geese, dnoks, and beaver, excellent trout, carp, and white fish, and some dozens of swan and duck eggs, which were picked up on an adjacent island. Their stay, therefore, was far from unpleas- ant, combining the novelty of a residence in a strange country with the excite- ment and variety of a hunter's life; and on the 15th, after a rest of six days, as the ice had given way a little, they resumed their journey. Since leaving Atlyibasca, the twilight had been so bright, owing to the short disappearance of the sun below the horizon, that even at midnight not a star was to be seen; but as they glided along the lake they were greeted by the moon, which rose beautifully above the woods, with her lower horn in a state of eclipse. The obscuration continued for about six minutes in a cloudless sky. Coasting along the shore, they came to a lodge of Red Knife Indians, so denom- inated from their using copper knives. One of these men engaged to conduct them to the mouth of the river which was the object of their search; but such were the impediments encountered^from drift ice, contrary winds, and the igno- rance of the guide, whom the English Chief threatened to murder for engaging in a service for which he was uitfit, that it was the 29th of the month before they embarked upon the river since known by the name of the traveller who now first ascended it. On leaving the lake, the Mackenzie River was found to run to the westward, becoming graduidly narrower for twenty-four miles, till it diminished into a stream not more than half a mile wide, with a strong current, ^nd a depth of three and a half fathoms. A stiff breeze from the eastward noWdrove them on at a great rate, and after a rapid run often miles, the channel gradually widen- ed till it assumed the appearance of anaaall lake, which proved to be the utmost :> m SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. limit known to tlieir guide. They now came in sight uftlie chain of the Horn Mountains, bearing nortli-we^t, and had some difficuliy in recovering the chanuel of the river. Having resumed their course on the Ist of July, they met with no interrup- tion for five days, when they obser\-ed several smokes on the northern bank. On lauding they discovered an encampment of five families of Slave and Dog- ribbed Indians, who on the first appearance of the party fled into the woods in consternation. The entieaties of the English Chief, whose language they un- derstood, at leni^th disisipated their apprehensions; and the distribution of a few beads, rings, and knives, with a stipply of grog, reconciled them entirely to the strangers. Their account of the diiiiculties. in the farther navigation of the river was not a little appalling ; they asserted that it would require several winters to reach the sea, and that old age would inevitably overtake the party before their return. Monsters of horrid shapes and malignant disposition were represented as having their abodes in the rocky cuvds on the banks, ready to devour the pre- sumptuous traveller who approached; aud the more substantial impediment of two impassable fiilLs was said to exist about thirty day's march from where they then were. Though such tales were treated with contempt by Mackenzie, the Indians, al- ready tired of the voyage, drank tiiem in with willing ears, and they could scarce- ly be persuaded to pursue their journey. On consenting to proceed, one of the Dog-ribbed Indians was induced, by the present of a kettle, an axe, and some other articles, to accompany them as a guide; but when the time of embarkation arrived, his love of home came upon him with such violence that he used every artifice to escape from his agreement, and at last was actually forced on board, Previous to his departure, a singular ceremony took place: with great solemnity he cut off a lock of his hair, and dividing it into three parts, fastened one to the upper part of his wifie's head, blowing on it thrice with the utmost violence, and uttering certain words as a charm. The other two locks he fixed with the same ceremonies to the heads of his two children. These Indians were, in general, a meager, u^ly, and ill-favoured race, particularly ill-made in their legs. Some of them wore their hair very long, others allowed a tress to fall behind, cutting the rest short round their ears. A few old men had beards, while the young and middle-aged appeared to have pulled out every hair on their chin. Each cheek was adorned by two double lines tattooed from the ear to the nose, of which the gristle was perforated so as to admit a goose quill or a small piece of wood. Their clothing coxisisted of dressed deer-skins. For winter wear these were prepared with the fur, and the shirts made of them decorated with a neat embroidery, composed of porcupine quills and the hair of the moose deer, col- oured red, black, yellow, or white Their shirts reached to the mid-thigh, while their upper garments covered the whole body, having a fringe round the bottom. Their leggius, which were embroidered round the ankle and sewed to their ■hoes, reached to mid-thigh. The dress of the women was nearly the same as that of the men. They wore gorgets of wood or horn, and had bracelets of the same materials. On their hfead was placed a fillet or bandeau, formed of strips of leather, embroidered richly with porcupine quills, and stuck round with bears' claws or talons of wild fowl. Their belts aud garters were neatly constructed of the sinews of wild animals and porcupine quills. From these belts descended a long fringe composed of strings of leathei, and worked round with hair of va- rious colours, and their mittens nung from their neck in a position convenient for the reception of their hands. Their arms and weapons forthe cbase were bows and arrows, spears, daggers, and a large club formed of the reindeer horn, called a pogamagan. The bows were about five or six feet long, wiUi strings of sinews ; and flint, iron, or copper, supplied famrbs to the arrows. Their ■pears, nearly six feet long, were pointed with bone, while their stone axes were fastened with cords of green skin to a wooden handle. Their canoes were light, and ao small as to carry only one person. On the 5th of July, the party re^mbarked. Continuing their course west- ■outb-west they passed the Great Bear Lake River; and steering through nu- merous islands, came in sight of a ridge of snowy mountauis, Iraquented, ac'^ BIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 583 cording to their guide, by herds of bean and small white buflaloes. The bankii of the river appeared to be pretty thickly peopled; and though at first the n»> tires nniformly attempted to escape, the offer of presents generally brought them back, and procured a seasonable supply of hares, partridges, fish, or reindeer. The same stories of spirits or manitous which haunted the stream, and of fearfhl rapids which would dash the canoes to pieces, were repeated by these tribes; and the guide upon whom such representations had a powerful effect decamped in the night during a storm of thunder and lightning. His place, however, was won supplied; and, afler a short sail they approached an encampment of In- dians, whose brawny figures, healthy appearance, and great cleanliness, showed them to be a superior race to those lately passed. From them Mackenzie learn- ed that he must sleep ten nights before arriving at the sea, and in three nights would meet the Esquimaux, with whom they had been fbrmerly at war, but were now in a state of peace. One of these people, whose language was most intelligible to the interpreter, agreed to accompany the party : but became dread- fully alarmed when some of^ the men discharged their fowling pieces. It was evident none of his race had ever heard the report of firearms. To reconcile him to his departure, his two brothers followed in their canoes, and diverted him with native songs, and other airs said to be imitations of those of the Esquimaux. The triumph of music was never more strikingly exhibited ; from deep dejection the Indian at once passed into a state of the highest and most ludicrous excite- ment, keeping lime to the songs by a variety of grotesque gesticulations, per- formed with such unceasing rapidity and so little regard to the slendemess of the bark, which quivered under his weight, that they expected every moment to see it upset. In one of his paroxysms, shooting his canoe along side of Mackenzie's, he leaped into it, and commenced an Esquimaux dance. At last he was restored to some degree of composure, which became complete on their passing a hill, where he informed them that three winters ago the Esquimaux had ^ain his grandfather. Mackenzie soon after reached the tents of a tribe named Deguthee-Dinees, or Qnarrellers, who justified their name by the menacing gestures with which they received the stranger's approach. A few presents, however, reconciled them to the intraaion; and they communicated the gratifying intelligence that the distance overland to the sea, either by an easteriy or westerly route was inconsiderable. The party now pushed on with renewed hopes; and the river soon after sepa- rating into several streams, they chose the middle and largest, which ran north. This shortly brought in sight a range of snowy mountains, stretching far to the northward ; and, by an obiiervation, Mackenzie found the latitude to be (J7° 47', which convinced him that the waters on which their frail barks were then gliding nrastflow into the great Hyperborean Ocean. At this moment, when within a few days of accomplishing the great object of their journey, the Indians sank into a fit of despondency, and hesitated to proceed. The guide pleaded ignoraBce of the country, as he had never before penetrated to the shores of the Benahnlla Toe, or White Man's Lake. Mackenzie assured them he would return if they did not reach it in seven days, and prevailed on them to continue their course. It was now the 11th of July, and the sun at midnight was considerably above the horizon, while every thing denoted the proximity of the sea. On landing at a deserted encampment, still marked by tlie ashes of some Esquimaux fires, they observed several pieces of whale bone, and a place where train oil had been epilt. Soon after thev came to three houses recently left by the natives. The ground-plot of these habitations was oval, about fifteen f : et long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either end; the whole wo;) nning the bed of the whole family. In the middle of the other half, a space of four feet wide, which had been hollowed to the depth of twelve inches, was the only spot where a grown person could stand upright. One side of it was covered with willow branches, and the other formed ttra hearth. The door, in one end of the house, Mas about two feet and a half high by two feet wide, and was reached through a covered way about five feet long; so that the only ac- cess to tfiis curious dwelling was by creeping on all fours. On the top was an -*f' 584 8tR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. orifice about eighteen inches square which served the triple purpose ofu window, a chimney, and an occasional door. The under-ground part of the floor wag lined with split wood, while cross pieces of timber, laid on six or eight upright stakes, supported an oblong square roof; the whole being formed of drift wood, and covered with branches and dry grass, over which was spreacf earth a foot thick. On either side of these houses were a few Square holes, about two feet deep, covered with split wood and earth, excepting one small place in the mid- dle, which appeared to be contrived for the preservation of the winter stock of provisions. In and about the houses lay sled runners, and bones, pieces of whalebone, and poplar bark cut in circles, u^ed evidently to buoy the nets; and before each habitation a great number of stumps of trees were driven imo the ground, upon which its late possessors had probably hung their nets and fish to dry in the sun. The signs of vegetation were by this time scarcely perceptible ; the trees had dwindled into a few dwarf willows, not more than three feet high ; and though the footmarks on the sandy beach of some of the islands showed that the natives had recently been there, all attempts to obtain a sight of them proved unavail- ing. The discontent of the guide and of the Indian hunters was now renewed ; but their assertion that on the morrow they were to reach a large lake in which the Esquimaux killed a huge fish, and whose chores were inhabited by white bears, convinced Mackenzie that this description referred to the Arctic Sea, with its mighty denizen the whole. He accordingly pressed forward with fresh ardour, and the canoes were soon carried by the current to the entrance of the lake, which, from all the accompanying circumstances, appears to have been an arm of the Arctic Ocean. It was quite open to the westwiird, and by an obser- vation the latitude was found to be 69°. From the spot where this survey was taken they now continued their course to the westernmost point of a high isl- and, which they reached afler a run of fifteen miles, and around it the utmoiit depth of water was only five feet.' The lake appeared to be covered with ice for about two leagues' distance, no land was seen ahead, and it was found im- possible to proceed farther. Happily, when they had thus reached the liirthest point of their progress northward, and were about to return in great disappoint- ment, two circumstances occurred which rendered it certain that they had pene- trated to the seu : the first was the appearance of many large floating substances in the water, believed at first to be masses ol ice, which, on being approached, turned out to be whales ; and the second, the rise and fall of the tide, observed both at the eastern and western emUof the island, which they named Whale Isl- and. Having, in company with the English Chief, ascended to its highest ground, Mackenzie saw the solid ice extending to the east ; and to the west, as fiir as the eye could reach, they dimly discerned a chain of mountains, apparent- ly about twenty leagues' distance, stretching to the northward. Many isl- ands were seen to the eastward ; but though they came to a grave, on which lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear, they met no living human beings in these arctic solitudes. The red fox and the reindeer, flocks of beautiful plovers, some ven- erable white owls, and several large white gulls were the only natives. Previous to setting out on their return, a post was erected close tq the tents, upon which the traveller engraved the latitude of die place, his own name, the number of per- sons by whom he was accompanied, and the time they had spent on the island.' It was now the 16th of July, and they re-embarked on their homeward voy- age. On the 21st the sun, which for some time had never set, descended below the horizon, and the same day eleven of the natives joined them. They repre- sented their tribe as numerous, and perpetually at war with the Esquimaux, who had broken a treaty into which they had inveigled tlie Indians, and butchered ma- ny of them. Occasionally a strong body ascended the river in large canoes, in search of flints to point their spears and arrows. At present they were on the banks of a lake to the eastward, hunting reindeer, and would soon begin to catch big fish (whales) for their winter stock. They had been informed that the same Esquimaux, eight or ten winters ago, saw to the westward, on White Man's Lake, several large canoes full of white men who gave iron in exchange for leather. On landing at a lodge of the natives farther down the river, the Eng- ■% %, SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIB* 665 liah Chief obtained sonie other particulars from a Dog-ribbed Indian, who had been driven by some private quarrel from hi« own nation, and lived among the Hare Indians. According to his information there was a much larger river to the south-west of the mountains, which fell into White Man's Lake. The peo- ple on its bonks were a gigantic and wicked race, who could kill common men with their eyes, and sailed in huge cunoes. There was, he added, no known communication by water with this great river; but those who had seen it went over the mountains and it flowed toward the mid-day sun. This description proceeded, he acknowledged, not from personal observation, but was taken from tlie report of others who inhabited the opposite mountains. Mackenzie, having fallen in with one of these strangers, by a bribe of some beads prevailed upon him to delineate the circumjacent country and the course of the unknown river upon the sand. The map proved a very rude production. He traced out a long point of land between the rivers without paying the least attention to their courses. This isthmus he represented as running into the great lake, at the extreniily of which, as he had been told by Indians of other nations, there was built a Benabulla Couin, or White Man's Fort. "This," savs Mackeniie, " I took to be Oonaluska Fort, and consequently the river to the west to be Cook's River, and that the body of water or sea into which the river discharges itself at Whale Island communicated with Norton Sound." , Mackenzie now endeavoured to procure a guide across tlie mountains, but the natives steadily refused ; and any additional intelligence which they commu- nicated regarding the country only consisted of legends concerning the super- natural power and ferocity of its inhabitants. They were represented as a sort of monsters widi wings, who fed on huge birds, which, though they killed them with ease, no other mortal would venture to assail. Having gravely stated this, they began both young and old to jump and dance with astonishing violence and perseverance, imitating the cries of the reindeer, bear, and wolf, in the hope of mtimidating Mackenzie; but when he threatened with an angry aspect to force one of them along with him across the mountains, a sudden lit of sickness soized the whole party, and in a faint tone, which formed a ludicrous contrast to their former vociferation, they declared they would expire the instant they were taken from their homes. In the end the traveller was compelled to leave them with- out accomplishing his object. On the 1st of August, as the expedition approached the river of the Bear Lake, the stars, which hitherto, from the extreme clearness of the twilight, had continued invisible, began to twinkle in the sky: and the air, from being oppres- sively sultry, became so cold that perpetual exercise could scarcely keep the men warm. The women were now constantly employed in making shoes of moose skin, as a pair did not lust more than a day, wtiile the hunters brought in supplies of geese, reindeer, and beaver; and on one occasion a wolf was killed, roasted, and euten with great satisfaction. On the 22d of August, they reached the entrance of the Slave Lake, after which their progress homeward presented no feature of interest, and on the 12th of September they arrived in safety at Fort Chepewyan, after an absence of 102 days. The importance of this jour- ney must be apparent, on considering it in connexion with the expedition of Heame. Both travellers had succeeded in reaching the shores of an artic sea ; and it became not only an established fact that there was an ocean of great ex- tent in the north of America, but it was rendered extremely probable that this sea formed its continuous boundary. Mackenzie concluded his first journey in September, 1789, and about three years afterward undertook a second expedition, which proved still more difticult and hazardous, and equally important and satisfactory in its results. His object was to ascend the Peace River, which rises in th<^ Rocky Mountains, and cross- ing these, to penetrate to that unknown river which in his former journey had been the subject of his unceasing inquiry. This he conjectured must commu- nicate with the sea ; and, pursuing its course, he hoped to reach the shores of the Pacific. Setting out accordingly, on the 10th of October, 1792, he pushed on to the remotest European settlement, where he spent the winter in a traffic for furs with the Beaver and Rocky Indians. Having despatched six canoes to 50 586 SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. Fort Chepewynn with the cargo he had collected, he engaged hunters and in. terpreters, and launched the canoe in which he had determined to prutwcute bin diacoveries. Her dimensions were twenty-five feet long within, exclusive of the curves of stem and stem, twenty-six inches hold, and four feet nine inches beam. She was at the same time so light tliat two men could carry her three or four miles without resting. In this slender vessel they not only stowed away their provisions, presents, arms, ammunition, and baggage, to the weight of tiOO'O pounds, but found room for seven Europeans, two Indians, and the leader him- self. On embarking, the winter interpreter left in charge of the fort could not refrain from tears when he anticipated the dangers they were about to encoun- ter, wliUe they themselves offered up their prayers to Almighty God for a safe return. The commencement of their voyage was propitious ; and under a serene sky, with a keen but healthy air, the bark glided through some beautiful scenery. On the west side of the river the ground rose in a gently-ascending lawn, brok- en at intervals by abrupt precipices, and extending in a rich woodland pempec- tive as far aa the eye could reach. This magnificent ampitheaire prefented groves of poplar in every direction, whose openings were enlivened with herds- of elks and buffaloes ; the former choosing the steeps and uplands, tlie latter preferring the plains. At this time the buffaloes were attended by their yonng ones, which frisked about, while the female elks were great with youn<.' . Thu whole country displayed an exuberant verdure : the trees which bore blosgonis were rapidly bursting into flower, and the soft velvet rind of the branches re- flected the oblique rays of a rising or a setting sun, imparting a cheerfulness and brilliancy to the scene, which gladdened the heart with the buoyant influences of the season. After a few days the air became colder, the country more deeo- late, Uie track of the large grisly bear was discerned on the banks, and the weath- er was occasionally broken by storms of thunder and lightning. From this time till the 2lBt of May, the passage was attended with difliculties that would have disheartened a less energetic leader. The river being broken by frequent cascades and dangerous rapids, it was necessary to carry their canoe and luggage till they could resume their voyage in safety. On their nearer ap- proach to the Rocky Mountains, the stream, hemmed in between stupendous rocks, presented a continuance of frightful torrents and impracticable cataractK. The dangers to which they had already been exposed had greatly disheartened the men, and they began to murmur audibly, so that no alternative was left but to return. Indeed there was some reason for this irresolution ; by water farther progress was impossible, and they could only advance over a mountain whose sides were broken by sharp jagged rocks, and thickly covered with « . o^d. Mac- kenzie despatched a recoimoitering party, with orders to ascend the mountain, and proceed in a straight course from its summit, keeping the lit e of the river till they ascertained that it was navigable. During their absence his people re- paired die ranoe, while he took an altitude, which ascertained the latitude to be 56° 6'. At sunset the scouts returned by different routes. They had penetrat- ed through thick Vvoods, ascended hills and dived into valleys, till they got be- yond the rapids, and agreed, that though the difficulties to be encountered by land were alarming, it was their only course. Unpromising as the task appear- ed, their spirits had risen and their murmurs were forgotten ; so that a kettle of wild rice sweetened with sugar, with the usual evening regale of rum, renewed their courage ; and after a night's rest, they proceeded at break of day on their laborious journey. In the flrst place tab men cut a road up the mountain where the trees were smallest, felling some in such a manner as to make them fall parallel to the road without separating them entirely from the stumps, in this way forming a kind of railing on either side. The baggage and the canoe were then brought from the water side to the encampment, an undertaking exceedingly perilous, as a single false step must have been followed by immersion into th^ river, which flowed here with furious rapidly. Having accomplished this labour, the party breathed a licde, and then ascended the mountain with the canoe, having the line or rope by which it was drawn up doubled, and fastened successively to the stumps left SIB ALEXANDER MACKBKZIB. 887 for this parpof e while a man at the end hauled it round a tree, holding it on and ahifting it aa they advanced. In this manner the canoe was warped np the ateep; and by two in the afternoon ev ty thing had been carried to the summit. Men were then despatched to cut the road onwards : and the incessant labour of an* other day could only penetrate about three miles, while mountain!* much more elevated raised their snowy summits around in every direction. Theae, howev- er, were at a distance ; and another day's exertion brought them through a wood of tall pines to the banks of the river above the rapids. Before again embark- ing, Mackenzie left attuched to a pole a knife, a steel, flint, beads, and other tri- fles, as a token of amity to the natives: and one of his Indians added a small round stick of green wood, chewed at one end in the form of a brush, used to pick miirruw out of bones, — an initrument which he explained to be intended as an emblem to the people of u country abounding in animals. They now resumed their voyage, enclosed on all sides by mountains whose summits were covered with snow, and one of which to the south rose to a majes- tic height. The air became chill; the water, through which they frequently waded, towing or pushing their bark, wns intensely cold ; and on the 31st of May, they reached a point minutely described to them before setting out by an old Indi in warrior. Here the river separated into two streams, one running west-north-west, and the other south-south-east. The first of these they had been warned to avoid, as it soon lost itself in various smaller currents among the mountains; and the steersman accordingly proceeded into the eastern branch, which though not so broad as the other, was far more rapid. The course of ' tlieir journey now led them through many populous beaver settlements. In some places these auimals had cut down several acres of large poplars; and they saw nmltitudes busy from sunrise to sunset erecting houses, procuring food, su- perintending their dikes, and going diligently through all the labours of their lit- tle commonwealth. Perceiving soon after a smoke in the forest which lined the banks, and bearing the sounds of human voices in great confusion, they be- came aware that they were near an Indian encampment from which the inhabi- tants were retreating. Accordingly, on approaching the shore, two ferocioui looking men sprang from the woods and took their station on a rising ground, brandishing their spears with loud vociferations. A few words of explanation from the interpreter, and some presents pacified them, and Mackenzie made anxious enquiries regarding the nature of the country, and the great river which formed the object of his search. To his mortification he found that they were unacquainted with any river to the westward; they had just arrived over a car- rying place of eleven days from another stream, which was nothing else than a branch of the one the expedition was then navigating. Their iron, they said, was ' trocured in exchange for beaver and dress moose skins from the people there, who travelled during a moon to the country of other tribes living in hous- es, and theie in their turn extended their journies to the ocean; or, to use their disparaging epithet, the Great Stinking Lake, where they traded with white peo- ple, who came in canoes as large as i^land.s. Their knowledge of the country, however, appeared so vague, that all hope of procuring a guide was vain, and the heart of^ the traveller sank within him as he felt that his favorite project was on the point of being disconcerted. , Amid this despondency a faint hope remained that the natives, under the influ- ence of superstition, timidity, or from iuiperlisctly understanding the interpre- ter, had not communicated all they knew; and after a nighi of sleepless anx- iety, the traveller rpse with the sun to repeat his inquiries. At first nothing satisfactory could be elicited; but suddenly, Mackenzie, who stood beside the in- terpre'^rs, understood from the few words he knew of their language, that one person mentioned a great river, while he pointed significantly to that which lay before them. On a strict inquiry, the interpreter, who had been tired of the voy-> age, and of whose fidelity some suspicion was entertained, acknowledged that the Indian spoke of a large river whose course was toward the mid-day sun, a branch of which flowed near the source of the stream they were now navigating. This branch, he added, it would not be difficult to reach, there being only three small lake.s and as many carrying places on the way to it; bm be also loaisted 588 8IR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. that the great rirer did not discharge itself into the aea. This last assertion was imputed to his ignorance of the country, while a rude map, which he delineated with a piece of coal on a strip of bark, convinced them that his information so for as it went was to be relied on. A new ray of hope now arose ; and having in- duced an Indian to go forward as a guide to the borders of the amaW lakes, Mac- kenzie resumed his journey on the 10th of June, promising, if successful in his object, to revisit these friendly Indians in two niouus. These people were of low stature and meagre frame, owing probably to the difficulty of procuring subsistence ; round faces, high cheek bones, black hair hanging in elt-locks over their shoulders, and a swarthy yellow complexion, com- bined to give them a forbidding aspect; while their garments of beaver, reindeer, and ground hog skins, dressed with the hair outward, having the tail of this last animal hanging down the back, might, when seen at a dii^tauce, occasion some doubt whether they belonged to the human race. Their women were extreme- ly ugly, lustier and taller than the men, but much inferior in cleanliness. Their warlike weapons were cedar bows, six iinet long, with a short iron pike at one end, so that they might also be used as spears. The arrows were barbed with iron, ilmt, stone, or bone, from two to two feet and a half long, and feathered with great neatness. They had two kinds of spears, both double-edged, of well polished iron, and with shafts from six to eight feet long. Their knives were of iron worked by themselves, and their axes resembled a carpenter's adze. They used snares of green skin, nets and fis'iing lines of willow bark, hooks of small bones, and kettles oiwalnpe so closely woven a'i not to leak. Besides tiiese ihey had various dishes of wood and bark, horn and wooden spoons and buckets, and leathern and network bags. Their canoes, of spruce bark, calculated tu hold from two to five persons, were propelled by paddles six feel long, with the blade shaped like a heart. Pursuing their journey under the direction of the new guide, they reached a small lake in latitude 54° 24', which Mackenzie considered as the highest or southernmost source of the Ungigah or Peace River. They passed two other lakes, and again entered the river, the uaviga ion of which, from its rapidity and the trees and rocks in its channel, now became dangec'Ous. The. canoe struck on a sharp rock, which shattered the stern, and drove her to the other side, where the bow met the same fate ; to complete the disaster, she pa.ssed at this moment over a cascade, which broke several holes in her bottom, and reduced her to a complete wreck, lying flat upon the water. All hands now jumped out, and cUnging desperately to the sides, were hurried several hundred yards through a foaming torrent beset with sharp rocks, upon which they were every instant in danger of being dashed to pieces. Being carried, however, into shallow water, where the canoe rested on the stones, they V/ere relieved from their perilous sit- uation by their companions on shore. After this escape a consultation was held regarding their future proceedings. Benumbed with cold, and intimidated be their recent dangers, the Indians pro- posed an immediate return; but the remonstrances of their letuier, enforced by the usual arguments of a hearty n:\eal and an allowance of rum, banished their fears. It was next proposed to abandon the wreck, to carry the baggage to the river, which the guide athrmed to be at no great distance, and there to construct a new vessel. But as it was suspected that this representation was not to be re- lied on, a party was despatched to reconnoitre, and brought buck a very confus- ed and unpromising account of the country. It was therefore determined to repair the canoe and proceed as before. For this purpose bark was collected,' which, with a few pieces of oilcloth and plenty of gum, restored their shattered boat to something like a sea-worthy condition. Her frail state, however, ren- dered it necessary to carry part of the lading on men's shoulders along the banks; apd as the road had to be opened vvith hatchets, their progress was extremely slow. On the 16th of June, Mr. Mackay a|iid tw^ Indians were despatched with or- ders to penetrate if possible to the great river ii\ the direction indicated by the guide. They succeeded ; hut returned with a discouraging account of the in- termiiwbJe woods and deep niorasses that intervfiued. Th9S9 gloomy prospects SIR ALEXANDER MACKEXZTE, i 589 were increased by the desertion of their gnide; but nothing could repress Mac- kenzie's ardour. Cutting a passage through the woods, carrying the canoe round the rapids and cascndes, they held on their slow and toilrome way, till at lust, atlet passing a swamp, in many places wading to mid-thigh, they en- joyed the satisfaction of reaching the bank of the great river, which had been the object of so much anxious expectation and protracted hope. Embarking anew, they were borne along by a strong current, which, slacken- ing atler a short time, allowed them to glide gently between banks of high white ciiflTs, sunnounted with grotesque and singularly shaped piimades. Aller some progress, the party were alarmed by a loud whoop from the thick woods; at the same moment a canoe guided by a single savage shot out from the mouth of a small tributary stream, and a number of natives, armed with bows and arrows, appeared on an adjacent rising ground, uttering loud cries, and manifesting by their gestures that instant death would be inflicted on any one who landed. Ev- ery attempt to conciliate them proved unavailing; and a canoe was observed to steal swiftly down the river, with the evident design of communicating the alarm and piocuring assistance. At this critical moment the courage and prudence of ."lackenxie providentially saved his party. He landed alone, with two pistols stuck in his belt ; having first, however, given orders to one of his Indians to steal into the woods with a couple of guns, and to keep near him in case of at- tack. " I had not been long," says he, " in my station on the bank, with my In- dian in ambush behind me, when two of the nati\« came ofl* in a canoe, but stopped when they got within one hundred yards of me. I made signs to them to land, and as an inducement displayed looking-glasses, beads, and other allur- ing trinket-*. At length, btit with every mark of extreme apprehension, they approached the shore, taking care to turn their canoe stern foremost, and still not venturing to land. I now made them a present of some beads, with which they were going to push off, when I renewed my entreaties, and after some time prevailed on them to come ashore and sit down by me. My Indian hunter now thought it right to join me, andcreated some alarm in my new acquaintance. It was, however, soon removed, and I had the satisfiiction to tiiid that he and these people perfectly understood each other. I i'.structed him to say every tiling to them which might tend to sooth their fears and win their confidence. I express- ed my wish to conduct them to our canoe; but they declined this offer; and when they observed some of my people coming towards us, they requested me to let them return, and I was s'l well satisfied with the progress which I had made in my intercourse with t' .^m, that I did not hesitate a moment in comply- ing with their desire. During their short stay they observed us, and every tiling about lis, with a mixture of admiration and asionishment. We could plainly perceivp that their friends received them with graat joy on their return, and that the arti<;ias which they carried back with them were exatpined with a general and eager curiosity ; they also appeared to hold a consultation which lusted about a quarter of im hour, and the result was an invitation to come over to them, which we clieerfully accepted. Nevertheless, on our landing, they betrayed evrdent signs of contu the first he had seen, by whom he was kindly received, Mackenzie very platt« sibly conjectured that these might be the ships of Captain Cook. It was now the I8th of July, aud, surrounded by friendly natives, with plen- ty of provisions, pleasant weather, and the anticipation of speedily reaching the great object of their wishes, they resumed their voyage in a large canoe, accompanied by four of the Indians. The navigation of the river, as they ap^ preached the ocean, was interrupted by rapids and cascades ; but their skill in surmounting these impediments was now considerable, and on the 20th, after a passage of thirty-six miles, they arrived at the mouth of the river, which discharges itself by various smaller channels into an arm of the Pacific Ocean, The purpose oi' the expedition was now completed, and its indefatigable leader painted, in large characters, upon the face of the ruck under whose shelter th^y had slept, this simple memorial : — " Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada by laud, the twenty-second of July, 1793," "rhe inscription was only written with vermillion, end has probably long aga been wrjuhed away by the fury of the elements ; but the name of Mackenzie is enduringly consecrated in the a,nnals of discovery, as the first person wiio pien« etrated fron\ s^a to sea across. (be immei^e continent of Nur(h Aineiipa. WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. Caftain William Edward Parry was the son of Doctor Parry, of Bath', England, and was born in 1790. Th« nidiments of his education he received at the grammar school of Bath, and, at the age of twelve he was placed on board the " Ville de Paris ;" and from 1803 to 1806 he continued on board the same ship, employed in blockading the French fleet in Brest. During this time, he attended closely to geometry, navigation, French, and other useful branches of teaming. His behaviour was exemplary : Admu'al Cornwabi.. said of him, " He has been the pattern of good conduct to all our young people." From th« Ville de Paris he removed, in May, to the Tribune irigate, which, during 1806, 1807, and 1808, was constantly blockading or cruising, and encountered some of the heaviest gales which had been experienced by the oldest seamen. In January, 1807, he was sent in a boat by his commander, to reconnoitre in Con- cameau bay, and he executed his commission with such courage as to approach close to a French line-of-battle ship, and such ability as to remain undiscovered by her. In April, 1808, the Tribune was sent into the Baltic, to which sea she returned in the following year. This service was a fatiguing and perilous one ; which, nevertheless, did not acquire for those engaged in it all the credit that they deserved. The swarms of Danish gun-boats which issued from the ports of Denmark were most formidable enemies, being of a low construction, and haviuy UdOt WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. 595 in action the power of attacking a ship of war in whatever direction they chose, and with an overwhelming number of guns, while she could reply with only a few, and those in some instances not capable of carrying a shot so far as the long guns of the enemy. At the age of nineteen Mr. Parry passed his examination, and was promoted to the rank of lieutenant, through the interest of lord Low- ther. He joined the Alexandria frigate in 1610, and served that year in the Bai* tic, where he was several times engaged with Danish schooners and gun-boats. In 1811 and 1812, he was on the Leith station, employed in protecting the Greenland whale fisheiy. During his leisure momenta he was not inactive. He prepared charts of the Baltic navigation, he spent part of the night in studying the situation of the principal fixed stars in our hemisphere, and he made a sur- vey of the Baltic sound and the Voe in Shetland, an excellent harbour which was little known. In 1813, under a promise of promotion — of which, however, circumstances prevented the performance — he sailed to Halifax, and was ucca- pied on board the La Hogue, in cruising in pursuit of Rogers. In 1816^ he ob- tained a first lieutenancy in the Niger, which was stationed off Halifax, and 'th« river St. Lawrence, and Quebec. Early in 1817, he obtained leave to return to England. In 1818, the Admiralty fitted out two expeditions; one destined fw the dis- covery of the north-west passage, the other to attempt a voyage across the Pole, The first, which is the one we are at present to follow, consisted of the Isabella, of three hundred and eighty-five tons, commanded by Captain John Ross, an officer of reputation and experience, who had twice wintered in the Baltic, had been employed in surveying the White Sea, and had been as far north as Bear or Cherie Island. Another vessel, the Alexander, of two hundred and fiAy-two tons, was commanded by Lieutenant Parry. On the 18th of April the vessels dropped down the Thames, and by the end of the month, were off the Shetland Islands. By the 27th of May they came in view of Cape Farewell ; round which, as usual, were floating numerous and loAy icebergs of the most varied forms and tints. On the 14th of June they reached the Whale Islands, where they were informed by the governor of the Danish settlement that the post winter had been uncommonly severe, the neigh- bouring bays and straits having been all fiozen two months earlier than usual, and that some of the channels to the northward of his station were still bound in with the ice. A curious statement was here made, that the Esquimaux, by their own account, could see across the whole breadth of the bay, though not less than two hundred miles, which would be an extraordinary instance of the power of refraction ; but the ice, it may be observed, often presents dec^tive appearances of land. On the 18th of June, in the neighbourhood of Waygat Island, an im- penetrable barrier obliged the discoverers to stop their course, making them- iielves fast to an iceberg, and having forty-five whale ships in company. Obser- vations made on land proved this island to be misplaced on the maps by no lew than five degrees of longitude. At length the ice attached to tlie eastern shore broke up, though still forming a continuous and impenetrable rampart at some distance to the westward, in which direction it had drilled ; but in the intermedi- ate space they were enabled to move forward slowly along the coast, labouHng through narrow and intricate channels, amid mountains and loose fragments of ice. They steered their course, however, to the highest parts of the bay, and in about latitude 75° came to a coast which had not been visited by former naviga- tors. They were struck, as Batfin had been, by the great number of whales which were slumbering securely in these deep recesses, never having been alarmed by the harpoon. On the 7th of August, in the same latitude, a heavy gale sprnng up, and driving the ice against the vessels, made u display of its ter- rible and dangerous power. A trial of strength ensued between the ice and the ships ; being dashed against each other with such force, that the anchors and cables were successively broken, and a boat, which could not be withdrawn from between their sterns, was crushed to pieces. Providentially, when instant destruction was expected, the icy mass receded, and the ships, owing to the ex- traordinary strength of their construction, escaped without material injury. / 506 WILLIAM EDWARD PARIIY. Proceeding along a high mountainous coast, the expedition came to a tribe of Esquimaux, who, of all human beings, seem to exist in a state of the deepest aeclusion. They had never before seen men belonging to the civilized world, or of a rare different from their own. The first small party whom the naviga- tors approached showed every sign of the deepest alarm ; dreading, as we after- wards understood, a fatal influence from the mere touch of these beings of an unknown species. Yet they seem to have felt a secret attraction towards the strangers, and advanced, holding fast the long knives lodged in their boots, and looking significantly at each other. Having come to a chasm which separated them from the English, they made earnest signs that only Saccheous, the inter- preter, who bore a certain resemblance to them, should come across. He went mrward and offered his hand. They shrunk back for some time in alarm ; at length the boldest touched it, and, finding it flesh and blood, set up a loud shout, which three others joined. The rest of the party then came up, to the number «f eight, with fifly dogs, which joined with their masters in raising a tremendous «Iamor. Ross and Parrv now thought it time to come forward. This move- ment excited alarm, andl a tendency to retreat ; but Saccheous having taught these ofiicers to pull their noses, this sign of amity was graciously accepted. A mirror was now held up to them, on seeing their faces in which, they showed the most extreme astonishment ; they looked round on each other a few mo- ments in silence, then set up a general shout, succeeded by a loud laugh of delight and surprise. The ship was then the next object of their speculation. They began by endeavouring to ascertain its nature by interrogating itself; for tiiey conceived it to be a huge bird spreading its vast wings and endowed with reason. One of them, pulling his nose with the utmost solemniiy, began an address : "Who are you? Whence come you? Is it from tlie sun or the moon?" The ship remaining silent, they at length applied to Saccheous, who assured them that it was a frame of timber, the work of human art. To them, however, who had never seen any wood but slight twigs and stunted heath, its immense planks and masts were objects of amazement. What animal, they also asked, could furnish those enormous skins which were spread for the sails. Their admiration was soon followed by a desire to possess some of the objects which met their «yes, but with little ceremony or discrimination as to the means of effecting their end. They attempted first a spare topmast, then an anchor ; and these proving too ponderous, one of them tried the smith's anvil ; but, finding it fixed, made off at last with the large hammer. Another wonder was for them to see, the sailors mounting the topmast ; nor was it without much hesitation that they ventured their own feet in the shrouds. A little terrier dog appeared to them a contemptible object, wholly unfit for drawing burdens or being yoked in a sledge, while the grunt of a hog filled them with alarm. This tribe, in features, form, and even language, belong evidently to the Es- quimaux, — a race widely diffused over all the shores of the Arctic ocean. They appear to have little or no communication with the rest, and amid the general resemblance have some distinguishing characters. The boat, large or small, which we almost instinctively associate with our idea of the Greenlander, is here wholly unknown. Much of their food is found within the deep, but is procured merely by walking ovelr the icy surface, which incrusts it during the greater part of the year. Yet they have one important advantage, not only over other Es- quimaux, but over the most civilized of the native Americans. The country affords iron, which, being flattened by sharp stones, and inserted in a handle made of the horn of the seu-unicorn, forms knives nmch moie efficient than those framed of bone by the neighbouring hordes. Again, unlike the other tribes, they have a king, who rules seemingly with gentle sway ; for they described him - as strong, very good, and very much beloved. The discoverers did not visit the court of this Arctic potentate ; but they understood that he drew a tribute, con- sisting of train-oil, seal-skins, and the bone of the unicorn. Like other Green- landers, they had sledges drawn by large and powerful teams of dogs ; their chase was chiefly confined to hares, foxes of various colours, the seal, and the narwal. They rejected with horror the perverted luxuries of biscuit, sweet- WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. 607' meats, or spirits ; train-oil, as it streained from the seal and the unicorn, alone gratified their palate. Captain Rosa, swayed by national impressions, gave to this tribe the name o{ Arctic Highlanders. In the northern part of this coast, the navi^rators observed a remarkable phe- nomenon, — a range of clilFs, the snowy covering of which had exchanged its native white for a tint of dark crimsfui. This red snow was not only examined on the spot, buta portion of it was Kiuughtto England, and was analyzed by the most learned men both at home and abroad, who have entertained various opin- ions as to the origin of the colour. The latest observations, as elsewhere ob- served, have e-stabiishcd its vegetable origin. Having now pa.ssed Cape Dudley Digges, Captain Ross found himself among those spacious sounds which BaHin had named, but so imperfectly dbscribed. He seems, however, to have followed the same hasty method. On looking up an inlet or opening, and seeing it, at whatever distance, apparently closed by land, he pronounced it at once a bay, and deemed farther investigation super- fluous. Too much importance seems also to have beeu attached to barriers of ice, which in many cjises were only temporary. He sailed past VVolsten- holme an I Whale Sounds very quickly, without approaching even their entrance ; concluding them to be blocked up with ice, and to aftbrd no hope of a passage. As these openings stretched towards tlie north, it must be arlniitted that they could not, in tliis high latitude, be considered very favourable as to a western route. He came next to Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, which we may recollect Bathn to have described as the most spacious and promising in the whole circuit of these coasts. It was viewed with greater attention ; but Captain Ross con- sidered himself as having distinctly seen it, at the distance of eighteen leagues, completely enclosed by land. The space appears too great for so positive an inference, and the belief that ice barred its entrance seems to have been adopted on very slight grounds. He. came next to a spacious bay, which had hitherto been unknown and unobserved, — afterward to that which Baffin had called Alderman Jones' Sound ; but in respect to both, the ice at their entrance, and the apparent boundary of highland in the interior, led, as in the other instances, to a prompt and unfavourable conclusion. The season was now somewhat advanced, the end of August approached, the sun set after a perpetual day of two months and a half, and u thick tog rendered the lengthening nights more gloomy. The land, seen at some distance, consisted of very high and steep mountains, presenting, however, some spots fit for human habitation. An opening, forty-five miles wide, to the southward of a promonto- ry which was named Cape Charlotte, was decided against in the usual summary manner. On the 30th of August, Uie expedition came to a most magnificent inlet, bordered by lofty mountiiins of peculiar grandeur, while the water, being clearand free from ice, presented so tempting an appearance that it was impos- sible to refrain from entering. This channel, which soon proved to be the Lancaster Sound of Baffin, was ascended for thirty miles ; during which run, ofScers and men crowded the topmast, filled with enthusiastic hope, and judging that it afforded much fairer hopes of success than any of those so hastily passed. Captain Ros5, however, and those whom he consulted, never showed those san- guine expectations. He soon thought that he discovered a high ridge stretch- ing directly across the inlet ; and though a great part of it was deeply involved in mist, yet a passage in this direction was judged to be liopeless. Tlie sea being open, however, the commander proceeded ; but about twelve o'clock Mr. Bever- ley, the assistant surgeon, came down from the crow's nest, staling, that he had seen the land stretching very nearly across the entire bay. Hereupon, it is.«aid, all hopes were renounced, even by the most sanguine, and CaptJim Ross sailed onward merely for the purpose of making some uiagnetical observations. At three o'clock, the sky having cleared, tlie couunander himself went on deck, when he states tliat he distinctly saw across the bottom of the bay a chain of mountains continuous and connected with those that formed its opposite shores. The weather then becoming unsettled, he made the signal to steer the vessel out of Lancaster Sound. Lieutenant Parry, however, declares that to him, in tlie Isabella, this signal appeared altogether mysterious, being hinuelf full 51 596 WILLIAM EDWARD PASRY. of the most sanguine expectations, and seing no ground whatever for this ab- rupt retreat; but his duty obliged him to follow On regaining the entrance of this great channel, Captain Ross continued to steer southward along the western shore of Baffin's Bay and Davis' Strait, with- out seeing any entrance which .afforded equal promise. Cumberland Strait alone was similar in magnitude ; but it could lead only into the higher latituden of Hudson's Bay, and afforded thus little chance ofa free passage into tiie Arctic sea. After surveying, therefore, some of these shores, he returned home early in October. The Captain arrived in England under the most decided conviction, tiiat Baf- fin's observations had been perfectly correct, and that Lancaster Sound wa.s u bay, affording no entrance into any western sea. If even any strait existed be- tween the mountain, it must, he conceived, be for ever innavigable, on account of the ice with which it is filled. The intelligent individuals, however, who bad fitted out the expedition with such zeal and on so great a scale, felt deep dissatis- faction both at this conclusion and at the premises from which it had been drawn. . The grounds, in particular, on which Lancaster Sound, an opening kg noble ' and so spacious, and in a position so favourable in respect to western dii^covcry. had been so abnipdy quitted, appeared wholly inadmissible. The same opinion was very decidedly espoused by several of the officers, and especially by Lieu- tenant Parry, who was second m command, but had never been consulted on the occasion, and who declared the relinquishment of all attempts at discovery at that crisis to be in his eyes completely unaccountable. It was determined, in short, that a fresh expedition should be equipped, and entrusted to Mr. Parry, that he might fulfil, if possible, his own sangume hopes, and those of his employ- ers. He was furnished with the Hecia of three hundred and seventy-five tons, and a crew of fifly-eight men ; and with the Griper gun-brig of one hundred and eighty tons, and thirty-six men, commanded by Lieutenant Liddon. These ships were made as strong and as well-fitted as possible for the navigation of the Arctic seas ; and were stored with ample provisions for two years, a copious supply of antiscorbutics, and every thing which could enable the crews to endure the most extreme rigours ofa Polar winter. Lieutenant Parry, destined to outstrip all his predecessors in the career of Arctic discovery, weighed anchor from the Nore on the llth of May, 1819, and on the 20th rounded the most northerly point of the Orjkneys. He endeav- oured to cross the Atiantic about the parallel of 58°, and though impeded during the first fortnight of June by a series of unfavourable weather, obtained on the 15th, from the distance apparendy of not less than forty leagues, a view of the lofW cliffs composing Cape Farewell. On the 18th the ships first fell in with icebergs, the air being also filled with petrels, kittiwakes, terns, and otlier winged inhabitants of the northern sky. Parry now made an effort to push north and west, through the icy masses, in the direction of Lancaster Sound ; but these suddenly closed upon him ; and on the 35th the two ships were so immovably beset, that no power could turn tiieir heads a single point of the compass. The vesseb remained thus fixed, but safe, when on the morning of the second day, a heavy roll of the sea loosened the ice, and drove its masses against them with such violence that only their very strong construction saved them from severe injury. The discoverers therefore were fain to extricate Uiemselves as soon as possible ; and, resigning the idea of reaching Lancaster Sound by the most di- rect route, began to coast northward along the border of this great icy field, till they slioald find open water. In U.ia progress they varied the observation cf Davis, that in the narrowest part of the great eca, misnamed his Strait, Uie shores on each side could be discovered at the same moment. Thus they proceeded, till they reached the Women's Islands, and Hope Sanderson, in about latitude 73°. As every step was now likely to carry them farther from their destination. Parry determined upon a dc^^perate push to the westward. Favoured with a modernte breeze, the ships were run into the detached pieces and floes of ice, through which they were heaved with hawsers ; but the obstacles became always heavier, till they were completely beset, and a heavy fog coming on, made them litde able to take advantage of any favourable change. Yet in the course of a WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. 599 week, Uiough repeatedly aud sometimes dangerously beset, tliey warped their way from lane to lune ot open water, till only one lengthened floe separated them from a wide open sea to the westward. By laboriously sawing through this ob- struction, they were able to penetrate finally the great icy barrier, aud saw the western shore, clear of ice. extending before tliem. The navigators now bore directly down upon Lancaster Sound, and on the 30th of July found themselves at its entrance. They felt an extraordinary emo- tion as they recognized this mugniliccnt cliannel with the lofty cliffs by which it Uiw guarded, aware that a very short time would decide the fate of their grand undertaking. Tiiey were fmtalized, however, by a fresh breeze coming directly down the Sound, which suffered them to make only very alow progress. There was no appearance, however, of obstruction either from ice or land, and even the heavy swell which came down the inlet, driving the water repeatedly in at the stern windows, was hailed as an indication of open sea to the westward. The Hecia left the Griper beliind, but still without inuking any great way herself till the 3d of August, when an easterly breeze sprung up, carrying both vessels rapidly forward. A crowd of sail was set, aud they pushed triumphantly to the westward. Their minds were filled with anxious nope and suspense. The mast-heads were crowded witli officers and men, and the successive reports brought down from the topmast pinnacle, called the crow's nest, were eagerly listened to. Their course was still unobstructed. They passed various head- lands, with several wide openings towards the north and south, which they hasti- ly named Croker Bay, Navy Board Inlet, &c.; but these it was not their present object to explore. The wind, freshening more and more, carried them happily forward, till at midnight they found themselves in longitude 83° 12', nearly a hundred and fifty miles from the moutli of the grand inlet, which still retained a breadth of fifty miles. The succass of the expedition, they fondly hoped, was now to a great extent decided. The Hecla, at this time, slackened her course to allow her companion to come up, which she did in longitude 85°. They together proceeded to longitude 86* 30', and found two other inlets, which they named Burnet and Stratton ; then a bold cape named Fellfoot, forming apparently the termination of this long line of coast. The lengthened swell which still rolled in from the north and west, with the oceanic colour of the waters, inspired the flattering hope that they had already passed the region of straits and inlets, and were now wafted along the wide expanse, of the Polar basin. Nothing, in short, it was hoped, would hence- forth obstruct their progress to Icy Cape, the western boundary of America. An alarm of land was given, but it proved to arise only from an island of no great extent. However, more land was soon discovered beyond Cape Fellfoot, which was ascertained to be the entrance to a noble bay, extendiilg on their risht, which they named Maxwell Bay. An uninterrupted range of sea still stretched out before them, though tliey were somewhat discomposed by seeing on the soutli a line of continuous ice; but it left an open route before them, and they hoped to find it merely a detached stream. A little space onward, however, they discovered with deep dismay, this ice to be joined to a compact and impene- trable body of floes, which completely crossed the channel, and joined the western point of Maxwell Bay. It behooved them, therefore, immediately to draw back, to avoid being embayed in ice, along the edges of which a violent surf was then beating. The officers began to amuse themselves with fruitless attempts to catch white whales, when the weather cleared, and they saw to the south an open sea, with a dark water-sky. Parry, hoping that this might lead to a free passage in a lower latitude, steered in this direction, and found himself at the mouth of a great inlet, ten leagues broad, with no visible termination ; and to the two capes at its entrance he gave the names of Clarence and Seppings. The mariners, finding the western shore of this inlet deeply encumbered with ice, moved across to the eastern, where they found a broad and opea channel. The coast was the most dreary and desolate they had ever beheld even in the Arctic world, presenting scarcely a semblance of either animal or vegetable Ufe. Navigation was rendered more arduous from the entire irregularity of the com- pass, now evidently approaching to the magnetic Pole, aud showing an ex< 600 WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. cefw of variation which they vainly attempted to measure, so that the binnacieit wei'e laid aside an useless lumber. They sailed a hundred and twenty miles up this inlet, and its augmenting width inspired them with correspondmg hopes ; when, with extreme consternation, thvy suddenly perceived the ice to diverge from its parallel course, running clothe in to a point of land which appeared to form the southern extremity of the etwtern shore. To this foreland they gave the name of Cape Kater. The western liori/.on alsio n[»peared covered with heavy and extensive Hoes, a bright and da/ziiug ice-blinU extending from nhore to sliore. The name of the I'riiicu Regent was given to ihiji spacious inlet, w^hich Parry strongly suspected must hiive a communication with Hud.son'M Bay. He now determined to riMurn to tiie old station, and watch the opportu- nity when the relenting ice would allow the ships to proceed westward. That station was reached not without t^ome ditliculty, amid ire and fog. At Prince Leopold's Islands, on the 15tb, the ice was as impenetrable as ever, with a bright blink, and from a high hill there was no water to be seen ; luckily, also, then' was no land. On the 18th, on getting once more close to the northern shore, the navigators begun to make a little way, and soiuc showers of ruin and snow, accompanied with heavy wind, produced such an effect, that on the 21st the whole ice had disappeared, and they could scarcely believe it to be the same sea which had just before been covered with floes upon floes, as far as the eye could reach. Mr. Parry now crowded all sail to the westward, and, though detained by want of wind, he passed Radstock Bay, Capes Hurd and Hothum, and Beechy Island; after which he reached u fine and broad inlet, leading to the nordi, to which he assigned Wellington, the greatest name of the age. The sea up to this inlet being perfectly open, he would not have hesitated to ascend it, had there not been before him, along the south coast of an island named Comwallis, an open channel, leading in a direction, which, being due west, he could have no hesitation in preferring. Wellington Inlet was now considered by the navi- gators, so high were their hopes, as forming the western boundary of tlie land stretching from Buflin's Bay tu the Polar Sea, into which they had little doubt they were entering. For this reason Captain Parry did not hesitate to give to the great channel which had effected so desitable a junction the merited appella- tion of Barrow's Strait, after the much esteemed promoter of the expedition. A favourable breeze now sprung up, and the adventurers passed gaily and tri- umphantly along the extensive shore of Comwallis Island, then coasted a larger island named Buthurst, and next a smaller one called Byam Martin. At this place, they judged, by some expen'menU, that they had passed the magnetic meridian, situated, probably, in about 100" west longitude, and where the com- pass would have pointed due south instead of due north. The navigation now became extremely dithcult, in consequence of thick fogs, which not only froze on the shrouds, but, as the compass was also useless, took away all means of knowing the direction ir. v^hich they sailed. They were obliged to trust to the land and ice preserving :he same line, and sometimes employed the most odd expedients for uscertainirg the precise point. They encountered also a compact floe of ice, through w hich they were obliged to bore their way by main Torce. Through all tliese obstacles they reached the coast of an island larger than any before discovered, to which they gave the name of Melville. The wind now failed, and they slowly moved forward by towing and warping, till, on the 4th of September, Mr. Parry could announce to his joyful crew, that, having reache'ea it was still immoveable. This interval of painful inaction was employed by Captain Parry in an excur- sion across Melville island. Tiia ground was still njostly covered with soften- ed snow, and even the cleared tracts were extremely desolate, though checkered by intervals of iine verdure. Deer were seen traversing the plains in consider- able numbers. To the north appeared nnotiier island to which was given the name of Sabine, By the n»iddle of June pools were every where formed; the dissolved water flowed in streams, and even in torrents which rendered hunting and travelling unsafe. There were al.so channels of water in whicii boats could pa.ss; yet throughout June and July the great covering oCice in the surrounding sea remained entire, and kept the ships in harbour. On llie 2d oi August, how- ever, the whole mass, by one of those sudden luovenienLs to which it is liable, broke up and floated out; and the explorers had now an open water in which to prosecute their discovery. It was con.solatory to thiiilv that this was the very season at which they had last year entered Lancaster Sound ; and if they could make as brilliant a voyage this summer, the following one would see them not far from Beliring's Straits. But it was not without souie ol)structions that on the 4th they reached the same sp«,t wheri' ich . ^ han- nels are filled. Cap;.jiu Lyon had proof of their strength whc u^ .a two hawsers repeatedly carried away, and his best bower anchor, weighing more than a ton, wrenched from the bows, and broken otT as if it had been crockery war.. Amid these troubles, the sailors were amused by the sight of three com- panion-ships, two belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and one bringing out settlers for Lord Selkirk's colony. These last, who were chiefly Dutch and Germans, were ssen waltzing on deck often for hours together, and were oUl. driven in by a severe fall of snow. Although almost in despair at the numerous detentions tliey had experienced, they recreated themselves from time to time by matrimonial arrangemenLs, in which they were so diligent, that, it is said, there was scarcely a bail which did not end in a marriage. Amid these obstructions, tlie ships spent nineteen days in making seventy miles; which course, however, brought them, on the 21st, within two leagues of what ara called the Savage Islands. On the following afternoon a loud shouting was heard over the ice, and soon after iliere appeared a numerous band of na- tives, paddling their canoes through tlie lanes of open water, or, where tliese failed, drawing them over the pieces of ice. Among a great number of kayaks, or boa's rowed by a single man, were five oomiaks, or women's boats, construe' ed of a frame work of wood and whalebone, covered with deer sldns, having fla' sides and bottoms, and of considerable size. One of them, 25 feet by S, conta "• ed women, boys, and children, to the number of twe»'.t}-uue. Presently began a wild, merry, noisy scene of frolic and tratHc. The natives carried it on with eagerness and even fury, stripping themselves to the very skins which formed their only covering, till tliey were in a state of total nudity, except that the ladies always made a laudable reservation of tlieir breeches. They drove what they meant should be an excessively hard bargain; yet, being wholly ignorant of the value of the rich skins with which nature has invested the animals of this Arctic climate, they raised shouts of triumph when they obtained in exchange a nail, a saw, or a razor. Their aspect was wilder and more dishevelled tlian tliat of any other tribe even among this rude race ; tJieir character also seems fiercer and more savage : and indeed it is in this quarter that most of the tragical encop . i-s. with Esquimaux have occurred. Some of the ancient dames were prom- .j ■».(' to be the most hideous objects that mortal eye had ever beheld; inflamed v)-.: . wrinkled skin, black teeth, and deformed features, rendered them scarcely hu- man : hence much apology was found for the dark and dire BuspicionB cherish- ed by Forbishor's crew respecting one of these damsf^ls; and the odd investiga* m t WILLIAM EDWARD TCRRY. G05 •1 ^ tion to whici, it protn{)ted. The children were rather pretty ; tlioiigh. from be- ing thrown carelessly into the bottom of the boats, tiiey had much the appear- ance of the young of wild animals. Besides traffic, the natives carried on a great deal of rather nide frolic, like that of ill regulated school boys. One of tliem got behind a sailor, shouted loudly in one ear, and gave him a hearty bo.\ on the other, which was hailed with a loud and general laugh. They also car- ried on a dance, consisting chiefly of ^'iolent leaping and stamping, though in tolerable time. In spite of every obstruction, Captain Parry, early in Augnst, reached the en- trance of Fox's Channel, and canr^ in view of Soutlsampton L-iland. It was now the question whether to sail directly up this channel, and reach, by a compara- tively short route, Repulse Bay and the higher latitudes, or to make the south- western circuit of Southampton Island, and ascend the beaten track of the Wel- come. CapUin Parry judiciously preferred the former, notwitlistanding its un- certainties, on account of the great time which would be saved should this course be found practicable. On the 15th he came to a strait stretching westward, and apparently separating the island from other land on the north. Hoping to find this the Frozen Strait of Middleton, he entered it; but it soon proved a spacious and beautiful basin, enclosed by land on every side. He named it the Duke of York's Bay, and considered it one of the finest harbors in the world ; but, after adtuiring a large floe covered entirely with minerals, shells, and plants, he moved out of it, and pursued the voyage. On the 21st the navigators found themselves in another strait, nut much encumbered with ice, but darkened by thick fogs ; and, before they almost knew where they were, a heavy swell from the south- ward showed that they had passed through the Frozen Strait, and were in the broad channel of the Welcome. They speedily entered Repulse Bay, in which modern speculation hsul cherished the hope of a passage ; but a short investiga- tion, made by boats in every direction, proved that it was really as Middleton had described it, completely enclosed. A good deal of time had thus been lost through the skepticism so unjustly attached to the narrative of that eminent navi- gator. Captain Parry, having come with all speed out of Repulse Bay, began the ca- reer of discovery along a coast hitherto unknown. An inlet was soon found, and called by the name of Core; but when ascended a certain length, it was not found to reach far inland. At the mouth of this opening, the valleys were richly clad with grass and moss, the birds singing, butterflies and other insects displaying the most gaudy tinti^, so that the sailor^ might have fancied themselves in a happier climate, had not the mighty piles of ice in the Frozen Strait told a diflerent tale. Hunting parties traversed the country in various directions, and the game laws of the preceding year were strictly re-enacte''., by which every beast or bird slain was to be employed for the general good, allowing only the head and legs as a douceur to the captor. The latter, however, adopted and made good a theory, agreeably to which the description /leod was greatly f^.xtend* ed, so as to include even several joints of tho back bone. Having pttssed Gore Inlet, the expedition found itself among tho.»e numerous isles described by Middleton, which formed a complete labyrinth <>> various shapes and sizes, while strong currents setting between theui in various direc> lions, amid fogs and drifting ice,' rendored the navigation truly perilous. The i'in\ was assailed by successive masses ru.shing out from an inlet; her anchor was dragged along the rocks with a grinding noise, and on being drawn up, the two flukes were found to be broken off. The same vessel was afterwards car- ried along by a violent current, amid thick mist, without there being nny means uf guicting or altering its direction; so that Captain Parry considers it altogether providential that she Was not dashed to pieces against the surrounding rocks. However, one channel, and one only, was found, by which the mariners at last made their way through this perilous maze. No sooner had they reached the open sea, than, being obliged to run before a northerly breeze, they were much disheartened to find themselves, on the 3d of September, at the very point which they had left on the preceding 6th of August. All the interval had been em< ployed in the mere negative discovery, that there was nothing to discover. / 606 WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. Captain Parry soon reached the northern coast, and resumed his task, which was rendered very tedious by the necessity of examining e\ery opening and channel, in the hope that each might prove the desired passage into the Polar ocean. He first explored a large inlet, the name of which he gave to Captain Lyon, then a smaller one, which was named from Lieutenant Hoppner ; and by connecting these with Gore Inlet, he completed his delineation of the coast. The seamen had then the pleasure of opening a traffic with a party of Esqui- maux, whose first timidity was soon overcome by the hope of being supplied with some iron tools. In the course of this transuction, the surprise of the crew was aroused by the conduct of a lady, who had sold one boot, but obstiuately re- tained the other in disregard of the strongest remonstrances as to the ridiculous figure she in consequence made. At length, suspicion rose to such a pitch, that, aU courtesy being set aside, her person was laid iiold of and the boot pulled oil'. Then indeed it proved a complete depository of stolen treasure, since no less than two spoons and a pewter plate were found within this capacious receptacle. The end of September now approached, and Captain Parry found himself suddenly in the depth of winter. Snow had been falling during the whole of the shoi I summer; but the united warmth of the air and earth had melted it as it fell, nrul left the ground still open to the sun's rays. In one moment, as it were, the c, J- ir>ie good its lodgement, and spread its white and dazzling mantle over law ea. The rays being then no longer able to reach the soil, the whole becaiL ibject to permanent and impenetrable frost. Some parts of the snow were iuaeed dissolved, and then refrozen in varied and beautiful forms of crys- tallization ; whereas, at Melville Island, tlie dead white covering once spread over, nature had never changed its aspect. A more serious symptom existed in the rapid formation of soft or pancake ice on the surface oi'^the deep. The obstacle presented by this crust was at first so slight as to be scarcely felt by a ship before a favoring gale ; but it contiimally increased, till the vessel, rolling from side to side, and all her resources failing, became, like Gulliver, bound by the feeble hands of Lilliputians. At tlie same time the various pieces of drift ice, which were tossing m the sea without, had been cemented mto one great field called "the ice," that threatened ever> moment to bear down upon the ves- sels, and dash them in pieces. Under this combination of circumstances, the navigators could no longer even attempt to reach the land, but determined to saw into the heart of a large adjoining floe, and there take up their winter quarters. There was about half a mile to penetrate, which, in the present soft state of the pancake ice, was not very laborious. It was, however, far from pleasant, the ice bending like leather beneath their feet, and causing tiiem sometimes to sink into the water, whence they did not escape without a cold bath. Captain Parry was now frozen up for another winter in the midst of the northern sea, and he forthwith ap{)lied himself to make the necessary arrange- ments, with that judicious foresight which had been already so conspicuous in Xhe same trying circumstances. Through lessons taught by experience, and by several ingenious contrivances, the ships were much more thoroughly heated than in the former voyage ; the provisioning, too, was more ample, and anti- dotes against scurvy still more copiously supplied. The Polar theatre opened 4m the 9th of November with " The Rivals." Captains Parry and Lyon volun- teered to appear as Sir Anthony and Captain Absolute; while the ladies had very generously removed an ample growth of beard, disregarding the comfort- able warmth which it atforded in an Arctic climate. The company were well received, and carried through their performances with unabated spirit; yet this season does not seem to have gone off with the same eclat as the preceding. Novelty, from the first the ch'wA' attraction, had worn otf, and the discomfort of a stage, the exhibitions of which were attended with a cold thirty degrees under the freezing pomt, became rather severe. The sailors found for themselves a more sober and useful, as well as efficacious, remedy against mnui. They es- tablished a school, in which the better instructed undertook to revive the know- ledge of letters among others who had almost entirely lost the sUght tincture which they had once imbibed. These hardy tars applied themselves to their book with ardent and laudable zeal, and showed a pride in their new attain- WILLIAM BPWARD PARRT. 607 uaents like that of little boys at school. By Christmas sixteen well written cop- ies were forthcoming from those who, two months before, could scarcely form a letter. Amid these varied and pleasing occupations, the shortest day passed over their heads almost unobserved, especially as the sun never ehtirely left them. Captain Lyon never saw a merrier Christmas than was celebrated on board. The sailors, being amply regaled with fresh beef, cranberry pies, and grog, be- came so extremely elevated, that they insisted on successively drinking, with ee hearty cheers, the health of each officer. The animal world in this rigorous climate, even though the ground was com- pletely frozen over, did not disappear so entirely as on Melville Island. A few solitary hares were caught; but they were in a miserable state of leanness, weigh- ing only five or six pounds, and had a pure white covering, which resembled swan's down rather than hair. About a hundred white foxes were found in the nets during the winier. These beautiful creatures, when first caught, were per- fectly wild and ungovernable ; but shortly, the young ones at least, threw off this timidity. A delicate little animal found one day in the snare proved to be an ermine; but it was excessively fiightened, and, to the general regret, soon died. The winter months were also enlivened by various beautiful appearances which the sky at that season presented. The northern world, when the sun de- parts, is by no means involved in that deep, monotonous gloom which such a privation might indicate. After that luminary has finally quitted the earth, and the long northern winter has closed in, the heavens become a gay scene, through which the most brilliant meteors are perpetually playing. Those most singular and beautiful streams of light, called commonly the Aurora Borealis, or North- ern Morning, keep up an almost incessant illumination. They were discerned in full splendor by Captains Parry and Lyon during their Arctic residence. The light had a tendency to form an irregular arch, which, in calm weather, was often very distinct, though its upper boundary was seldom well defined ; but whenever the air became agitated, showers of rays spread in every direction, with the brilliancy and rapidity of lightning. Sometimes long bands of light were spread out with inconceivable rapidity, but always appearing to move to and from a fixed point, somewhat like a riband held in the hand and shaken with an undulatory motion. No rule, however, could be traced in the movements of those lighter parcels called '* the merry dancers," which flew about perpetually in every direction and towards every quarter. In stormy weather die northern Ughts always became more rapid in their motions, sharing all the wildness of the blast. They gave an indescribable air of magic to the whole scene, and made it not wonderful that by the untiught Indian they should be viewed as "the spirits of his fathers roaming through the land of souls." Several questions have been agitated with respect to the Aurora. It has been said to be accompanied by a hissing cracking noise ; and indeed Captain LyoB obserres, that the sudden glare and rapid bursts of those wondrooa showers of fire make it difficult to fancy their movements wholly without sound. Yet no- thing was really ever heard. Captain Parry complams that he could not expose his ear 'o the cold long enough completely to ascertain the point; but Captain Lyon (I lares that he stood lor hours on the ice listening, and at a distance from every sounding body, till he became satisfied that none proceeded from the ^w- rora. It has been a question whether this meteor hid the stars; it was generally decided that it dimmed tlie lustre of those heavenly bodies, as if a thin gauze veil had been drawn over them, — an effect which was augmented when several luminous portions were spread over each other. In a clear atmosphere these lights shono with a brightness which gave the impression that they were nearer than the clouds : but whenever these last overspread the sky, tiie Aurora was hid by them, and must therefore have been more distant. To Captain Parry the hght appeared to assume tints of yellow and lilac; but to Captain Lyon its colour always resembled that of the Milky Way, or of very vivid sheet lightning. The present writer saw the Aurora once, and only once, m its utmost brilliancy, and exhibiting all the phenomena described by these northern observers, — his impressions agreeing particularly with those of Captain Lyon. 606 WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. Other luminous meteors, arising apparently from the refraction caused by the minute spiculse of ice, appear in succeKsion to embellish the northern sky. Tiie sun and the moon are often surrounded with halos.^oncentric circles of vapor, tinted with the briglilcst hues of the rainbow. Parhelia, or mock suns, frequent- ly adorned with tliese accompaniments, shine at once in different quarters of the hrmament. Ellis, who went with Moor and Smith to Hudson's Bay, has seen si\ in one sky. They are most brilliant at day-break, diminish in lustre as the real sun ascends, but again brighten at his setting. The sun himself, for sonic time before he finally departs lor the winter, and also afler his reappearance in the spring, tinges the sky with hues of matchless brilliancy. The edges of tlie clouds near that luminary often present a fiery or burnished appearance, while the opposite horizon glows with a deep purple, gradually softening as itascendti into a delicate rose colour of inconceivable beauty. As the solar orb at periods never rises more than a few drgrees a ove the horizon, he is, as it were, in a state of permanent rising and s<;tting, and seems to exhibit longer and more va- riously the beautiiul appearances rising out of that position. At this time tli»! naked eye can view him without being dazzled ; and Captain Lyon consider^) the softened blush colour, which his ruys exhibit through frost, as possessing u charm which surpasses even that of an Ituliun .'^ky. Amid all the.se resources, the monotony of the scene was beginning to be oji- pressive, when it wsus relieved by an unexpected incident, which attracted uni- versal attention. On tlie morning of tlic Ist of February, a numbei of distant figures were seen moving over the ice, and when they were viewed through glasses, the cry was raised, " E.squimaux, Esquimaux !" As it was of great im- portance to deal courteoutily and discreetly wiUi these strangers, the two cciii- manders formed a party of six, who walked in files behind each other, that they might cause no alarm. The E^quimaux then formed themselves into a line of twenty one, advanced slowly, and at length made a full stop. In this order they saluted tlie strangers by the usual movement of beating the breasts. They were substantially clothed in rich and daik deer skins, and appeared a much more quiet and orderly race than their rude countrymen of the Savage Islandc On the English producing their precious commodities, knives, nails, and needles, an active traiiic was set on foot; and the females, on seeing that much impor- tance was attached to the skins which formed their clothing, began immediately to strip off those with which their fair persons were covered. The captiiins felt alarced for the consequences, under a temperature more than fifty degrees be- low the freezing point; but were soon '•jn:;oled by observ'ng underneath anotli- er comfortable .suit. They were now cordially invited to enter their habitations, to which they agreed most readily, only Uiat there appeared no habitations to enter. However, they were led to a hole in the snow, and instructed to place themselves on their hands and knees, in which position, having crept through a long winding passage, they arrived at a Utile hall with a dome-shaped roof whence doors opened into three apartments; each occupied by a separate family. These proved to be live distinct mansions, tenanted by sixty-four men, women, and children. The materials and structure of these abodes was still more sin^^ular than tlieir position. Snow, die chief product of the northern tempests, became here a protection agaitist its own cold. It was formed into curved slabs of about two feet long and half a foot thick, put together by a most judicious masonry, so as to present a .species of dome shaped structures, rising six or seven feet above the ground, and about fourteen or sixteen feet in diiimeter. The mode of inserting the key slab, which bound the whole tojrether, would, it is said, have been satis- factory to the eye of a regular bred artist. A plate of ice in the roof served a.s a window and admitted the light as through {iround glass; which, when it shone on the interior muiisioiis, in their first state of pure and beautiful transparency, produced sofl and glittering tints of green and blue. l>iit, alas • ere long, accu- mulated dirt, smoke, and otial, converted these apartments into a scene of black- ness and stench. Thi* little village appeared at first a cluster of hillocks amid the snow; but successive falls tilled up the vacuities, and converted it almost in- to a smooth surfiice, so that even boys and dogs were seen walking and sporting over the roofs ; though, as summer and thaw advanced, a leg sometimes pene- • WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. 600 trated and appeared to the alarmed inhabitants below. Tlien, too, the eeilinff begins to drip ; and tlie tenants, after repeatedly endeavouring to patch it with fresh slabs, and catching, of course some severe colds, are ob!iirehese gallant aiaplii- bia, "ome with their cubs mounted on their backs, made .he most desperate re- sistance, and one of them tore the planks of a boat in two or three places. Three only were killed, the flesh of which was found tolerable, affording a variety amid the ordinary sea diet. The discoverers now proceeded northwards, and saw before them a bold and high range of coast, separated apparently from that along which they were sail- ing. This feature agreeing with the indications of the faiv Iligliuk, flattered them that they were approaching the strait exhibited by her as forming the entrance into the Polar basin. They pushed on full of hope and animation, and were farther cheered by reaching the small island of Igloolik, which she had described as situated at the very commencement of the passage. Accordingly they soon saw the strait stretching westward before them inloag perspective; but, alas! thev die. covered at the same time an unbroken sheet of ice stretching from shore to more, crossing and blocking up the passage, and this not a loose accidental floe, but the ice of the preceding winter, on which the midsummer had not produced the slightest change. Unable to advance a single step, they amused themselves with land excursions in different directions; and Captain Parry at length determined, on the 14Ui of Augue:, with B.jaatty of six, to undertake an expedition along the frozen Burface of the strait. The jouroey was very laborious, the ice being sometimes thrown up in nigged hummocks, and occaaionally leaving large spa* 612 WILLIAM EDWARD PARRT. ceil of open water, which it was necessary to cross on a plank, or on pieces of ice, instead of boats. In four duys they came in view of u peninsula terminated by a bold cape, the approach to which was guarded by successive ranges of strala, resembling tlie tiers oi galleries of u high and commanding fortification. Tlie i)arty, however, scrambled to the summit, whence they enjoyed a most gratifying spectacle. They were at the narrowest part of the strait, hi /e about two miles across, with a tide or current running through it at the rate of two miles an hour. Westward the shores on each side receded, till, for three points of the compass, and amid a clear horizon, no land wns visible. The captain doub^ted not tliat from this position he beheld the Polar sea; into which, notwith- standing the formidable barriers of ice which intervened, he cherished the uiotit sanguine hopes of forcing his way. He named this the strait of the Fury and Hecla, and gave the sailors an extra can of grog, to drink a safe and speedy pas- sage through its channel. Captain Parry now lost no time in returning to the ships, where bis arrival was joyful and seasonable ; for the opposing barrier, which had been gradually sotleniug-and breaking into various rentB and fissures, at once almost entirely disappeared, and the vessels next morning were in open water. On the 21st. they got under way; and, though retarded by fogs and other obstructions, had arrived on the 26tli at that central and narrowest channel which the commander had formerly reached. A brisk breeze now sprung up, the sky cleared, they dashed across a current of three or four knots an hour, and sanguinely hoped for an entire success, which would compensate so many delays and disappointments. Suddenly, from the crows nest above, it was announced that ice, in a continu- ous a^ I impenetrable field, unmoved from its winter station, occupied the whole bre .uih of the channel. In an hoar they reached this barrier, which they found aoti, porous, and what is termed rotten. Spreading all their canvass, they bore down upon it, and actually forced their way through a space of three or four hundred yards; but they were stuck, and found their progress arrested by a fix- ed and impenetrable mass. From this point, during the whole season, the ships were unable to advance a sir.gle step. Nor had the crews any means of exert- ing their activity except in land journeys. Captain Lyon undertook an exf edi- tion southward, to ascertain if any inlet from sea to sea in this direction had es- caped notice. The country, however, was so filled with rugged and rocky hills, some a thousand feet high, and with chains of lakes in which much ice was floating, that he could not proceed above seven miles, Though it was the be- ginning of September, the eeason was only that of early spring; and the buds of the poppy and saxifrage were just unfolding, to be prematurely nipped by the fast approaching winter. More satisfactory information was derived from an excursion made by Messrs. Reid and Bushman, who penetrated sixty miles westward along the southeni coast of Cockbum Island, till they reachid a pinnacle, whence they saw, beyond all doubt, the Polar ocean spreadmg its boundless expanse before them ; but tre- mendous barriers of ice filled the strait, and precluded all approach towards that great and desired object. It was now the middle of September, and the usual symptoms of deer troop- ing in herds southward, floating pieces of ice consolidating into masses, and the thin pancake crust forming on the surface of :'.ie waters, reminded the mariners, not only that they could hope for no farther removal of the obstacles which ar- rested their progress, but that they must lose no time in providing winter quar- ters. The middle of the strait, at the spot wi>ere they hud been first stopped, occurred as the station whence they would be most likely to push future discov- ery ; but prudence suggested a doubt, whether the ships, enclosed in this icy prison with such strong barriers on each aide, might ever be able to effect their extrication. It appeared, at all events, a serious consideration, that they might be shut up here for eleven months, sjurrounded by rocks and ice, amid the pri- vations of an Arctic winter. By returning to Igloolik, they would be ready to catch the earliest opening, which was expected to take place on the eastern aide, from whence a few days would bring them to their present station. WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. 613 On the 30th of October, by the usual operation of .sawing, the ships were estab- lished in a harbor at Igloolik. The enniiing t- pregnable fortress. Having touched nt Cape Seppings. Captain Parry proceeded down the inlet, where he was no longer arretted by an unbroken barrier of ice. Tlie sea, how- ever, was still heavily encumbered by numerous small fragnient-, employed to carry him us far as a ship could go, and with her were Mut two boats, to be drugged or navigated according to circumstances, along the unknown uud desolate expanse between Spib'.bergen and t'le Pole. These boats, being built of successive thin planks of a'>li, fir, and oak, with sheets of water-proof canvass ami stout felt, in^srposed, united the greatest possible degree of strength and elasticity. The interior whs made capacious and flat- floored, somewhat as in troop-bouts, and u runiicr iittached to each side of the keel fitted them to bo drawn along he ice like a sledge. Wheels were also ttken on board, in case tlieir use should be found practicable. The adventurers started early. On the 2 'tli of March, 1827, they were towed down the river by the Comet steamboat, and on tlie 4th of April weighed from the Nore, On the IDth they entered the flue harbour of Hammerfest in Norway, where tliey remained two or tliree weeks, and took on board eight reindeer, with a quantity of picked moss for their provender. Quitting Norway on the 11th of May, tliey soon foimd tliemselves among the ice, and met a number of whale ships. On tlie 13th, they were in view of Hakluy t's Headland, when the Captain endeavoured to push hiu way to the uorth-euat in the track of Phipps. Tlie vessel, however, was soon completely beset, and even enclosed in a large floe, which carried her slowly eastward along with it. As every day was now WILLIAM EDWARD PARRYo 617 aa irretrievable loss, Cuptain Parry became impatient in tlie extreme, and form- ed a plan to push off northward, leaving the ship to fii»d a harbour for heraelf, where he trusted on his return to trace her t-.U. But tu«s survey of the route in die proposed direction was most discouraging. In consequence of some violent agitation in the preceding season, the ice had been piled up in innumerable niunmocks, causing the sea to resemble a stone-mason's yard, except that it con- uined masses six times larger. This state of the surface, which would have rendered it impossible to drag the boats more than a mile in the day, was found to prevail for a considerable space with little interruption. The current mean- time continued to carry the ship, with the floe to which it was attached, slowly to the eastward, till it brought her into shoals in the vicinity of ice, whore she grounded in six fathoms ; alter which Captain Parry felt it quite out of the question to leave her till she was lodged in a secure harbour. He worked oa gradually, however, t.. the east and nor'.ii, passing VValdenlslaud, and obtaining a full view cf the Sevew Islands; but here the sea was covered with one un- broken land floe attached to all the shores, which destroyed every hope of finding a harbour ai.iong these islands. No choice was then left but to steer back for the coast of fcjpitzbergen, where he unexpectedly lighted on a very excellent harbour, named by him Hecia Cove, and which proved to be part of the bay to which an old Dutch chart had givoi tlie name of Treurenberg. It was now the '20th of June, and the best of the seas in had been spent in beating backwards and forwards on these ice-bound shore.*; he therefore resolved, without further delay, to prosecute the main object of hi>' enterprise. Scarcely hoping to reach the Pole, ne determined, at all events, to push as far north as possible. He took with him seventy-one days' provision, consisting of pemmican, (beef dried and pounded,) biscuit, cocoa, and rum. Spirits of wine, as the most portable and concentrated fuel, was alone used for ih'it purpose. There were provided changes of warm clothing, thick fur dresses for sleeping in, and strong Esqui- maux boots. The reindeer and tdso the wheels were given up at once as alto- gether useless in the present rugged state of the ice ; but four sledges, con- structed out of the Esquimaux snow-shoes, proved very convenient for dragging along the baggage. On tiie '<^2d of June tlie expeditionary party quitted the ship, and betook them- selves to the boats amid the cheers of their associates. Although all the shores were still frozen, they had an open sea, calm and smooth as a mirror, through which they sailed slowly but agreeably with their loaded vessels. After proceed- ing thua for about eighty miles, they reached, not as they had hoped, the maiu body of the ice, but a surface intermediate between ice and water. This could neither be walked nor sailed over, but was to be passed by the two methods alteruutoly. However, on such a strange and perilous plan it behooved them to land, in order to commence tlieir laborious and monotonous journey towards the Pole. Captain Parry describes in an interesting manner the singular mode of travel- ling to which tiiey were compelled to adhere. The first step was to convert nigl.t into day ; to begin their journey in the evening, and end it in the morning. Thus, while they had quite enough of light, they avoided the snow-glare and the blindness which it usually produces ; they iiad the ice drier and harder beneath them; and they enjoyed tlie greatest warmth, wiien it was most wanted^ during the period of sleep: they were only a little annoyed by frequent and denser fogs. Thus their notions of night and day became inverted. They rose in what they called the morning, but which was really lete in the evening, and having per- formed their devotions, breakfasted on warm cocoa and biscuit. They tiieu drew on their boots usually either wet or hard frozen ; and which, though perfectly dtied, would have been equally soaked in fitleen minutes. The party then travelled five or six hours, and a little after midnight stopped to dine. They now performed an equal journey in what they called the afternoon ; and in the evening, that is, at an advanced morning hour, halted as for the night. They then applied themselves to obtain rest and comfort, put on dry stockings and fur bpots, cooked something warm for supper, smoked their pipes, told over their 618 WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. exploits, and, forgetting the toils of the day, enjoyed an interval of ease and gayety. Then, wrapping themselves in their fur cloaks, they lay down in the boat, rather too close together perhaps, but with very tolerable comfort. The sound of a bugle roused them at night to their breakfast of cocoa, and to a repe- tition of the same round. The progress for several days was most slow and laborious. The floes were small, exceedingly rough, and with interposed lanes of water, which could not be crossed without unloading the boats. It was commonly necessary to convey these and the stores by two stages, when the sailors, being obliged to return for the second portion, had to go three times over the same ground ; sometime!) they were obliged to make three stages, and thus to pass over it five times. There fell as ranch rain as they had experienced during the whole course of seven years in a lower latitude. A great deal of the ice over which they travelled was formed into numberless irregular needle-like crystals, standing upwards, and pointed at both ends. The horizontal surface of this part had sometimes the appearance of greenish velvet, while the vertical sections, when in a com- pact state, resembled the most beautiful satin-spar, and asbestos when going to pieces. These peculiar wedges, it was supposed, were produced by the drops of rain piercing through tlie superficial ice. The needles at first afforded tolerably firm looting ; but becoming always more Ibose and movable as the summer advanced, they at last cut the boots and feet as if they had been pen- knives. Sometimes, too, there arose hummocks so elevated and rugged that the boats could only be borne over them, in a direction almost perpendicular, by those formidable operations called " a standing pull and a bowline haul." The result of all this was, that a severe exertion of five or six hours did not iisually produce a progress of above a mile and a half or two miles, and that iu a winding direction; so that, after having entered upon the ice on the 34tbof June, in latitude 81° 13' they found themselves on the 29th only in 81° 23', hav- ing thus made only about eight miles of direct nothing. Captain Parry soon relinquished all hope of reaching the Pole; however, it was resolved to push onward as far as pessible. The party came at length to somewhat smoother ice and larger floes, and made rather better progress. While the boat*? were land- ing on one of these, the commander and Lieutenant Ross usually pushed on to the other end to ascertain the best coiirse. On reaching the extremity, they commonly mounted the largest hummock, whence they beheld ascepe of which nothing could exceed the dreariness. The eye rested only upon ice*, and a sky liid in dense and dismal fogs. Amid this scene of inanimate desolation, the view of a passing bird, or of ice in any peculiar shape, excited an intense interest. which they smiled to recollect ; but they were principally cheered by viewing the two boats in the distance, the moving figures of the men winding with their sledges among the hummocks, and by hearing the sound of human voices, which broke the silence of this froze i wilderness. The rain, and the increasing warmth of the season, indeed grad' tally softened the ice and snow, but this only caused the travellers to sink deep at every step. At one place they sunk repeat- edly three feet, and required three hours to make a hundred yards. As they halted on the 5th of July, the margin of the floe broke, and a bag of cocoa fell into the sea, but luckily alighted on a tongue of ice and was taken up.*^ At the same time pools and even lakes were formed on the frozen surface ; and though the peculiar blue of these supe;'|lacial lakes formed one of the most beautitul tints in nature, this was a poor compensation for being obliged to make a great detour in order to avoid them. Still, amid all these difficulties, the floes became on the whole larger, the lanes of water longer, and the day's journey was gradually extended. Having attained 82" 40', they began to hold it as a fixe'' the ice and snow; depriving them of confidence in any spot on which they ( I place their boats or persons, and often sinking two or three feet in an infiaui. However the drift southwani made no longer any deduction from their progrci-- liut addod to it, every obser vation giving them several miles beyond their reckoiiiii>.' There was nion- open water, and it was a relief to them that the sun in tlitir niglily journeyii ir was lower in the 'horizon; while, being to the northward, he md not, as fonnerly, glare in their faces. They met several bears, and killed one, which was eagerly devoured by the hungry crew ; but the meal was followed by such severe syinj toms of indfigestion as inspired an unfavourable opinion regarding ' <■ flesh of this animal. Captain Parry attributed the bad eflects to the enormc ' (juajitity eaten. At length, on the 11th of August, they heard the sound ol the surge beating against the exterior margin of the great ice-field. They were soon launched on the open sea, and reached Tabic Island, where a supply of broad had been deposited; but Bruen had discovered it, and devoured the \\ ' /le. They found, however, some accommodations; while the stores left ;;' ^ ten's Island were still quite undisturbed. On the 2l8t the navigators arriveti ai Hecla Cove, from whence soon afterward, they sailed for England. Such WHS the result of tlie first and only attempt to penetrate to the Pole over the frozen surface of the deep. All the prowess, energy, and hardihood of British seamen were exerted to the utmost, without making even nn approach towards the liilfilment of their object. A failure so complejc has suspended for the present every idea of resuming the project; yet there seems nothing in the details just given to deter from the enterprise as mipossible, or even to render it 620 •WILLIAM EDWARD PARltT. very unfeasible. The lUifavoiAnble issue seems evidently owing to the advanced season of the year, when the thaw and consequent dissolution of the ice had made great progress, and all the materials of the great northern floor were broken up. The water, in its progressive conversion from solid into fluid, presented only a treacherous quicksand, in which the travellers sunk at every step, with the peril of being finally swallowed up. The ice in these intermediate stages of its transition into water, and in the breaches and pressures to which this gave rise, assumed a variety of much more rugged forms, than when it was spread and fast bound over the surface of the ocean. Its tendency also when loosened to float to the southward, carrying with it whatever is muviii^ iUong its surface, inevit- ably defeats every attetppt to proceed over it in a contrary direction. We en- tirely concur, therefore, in Mr. Scoresby's opinion, that a departure much earlier iu the season would be quite indispensable to give any chance of suc(>?s8. \ \ SIR JOHN ROSS* The first voyage of this distinguished navigator, in the northern seas, has already been described in connection with those of Captain Parry. On the 23d uf May, 1829, he again sailed from Wolwich in the Victory, fitted as a steamer, on a second expedition to the North Pole. By the power of steam, which had produced such wonders in modern navigation, he noped to vanquish the ob- stacles which had arrested the progress of ail former navigators. Another vessel, named the John, was taken up to carry stores and provisions, and to fish by the way. The two vessels were to meet at Lock Ryan. When the Victory was off the Mall of Galloway, the principal stroker got his arm entansled in the machine- ry, and the bone was so spUntered, as well as fractured, that amputation was necessary ; but the surgeon had not joined, and Ross was under the necessity of doing the best he could for the unfortunate sufferer. On the meeting of the two ships, the crew of the John mutinied, and refused to accompany the Victo- ry. Three men, however, of the mutineers, entered for the latter, and having procured an Irish labourer as a fire-stroker, she proceeded alone on her voyage. On the 23d of July, the party reached Holsieinburg, in Davis' Strait, where they purchased some stores from a wrecked vessel, and the governor made them a present of six Esquimaux dogs, which proved to be of essential use in dragging the dedges. All things being ready, they stood to the northward, along the coast 53 622 SIR JOHN ROSS. of Baffin's Bay ; and having reached the latitude of 74^ 14' on the 3d of Augunt. ran across, and on the 5th reached the entrance of Lancaster Sound. On t(ie 11th of August, they steered direct for the south side of Prince Regent's Inlet ; and having passed Elwin and Batty Bays, saw the spot where the Fury was wrecked, and the poles of the tents standing, but could not discern the ship; alv. had gone to pieces, or to the bottom. The Victory was moored in a good ice harbour, within a quarter of a mile of the spot where the Fury's stores were landed. Here the coast was almost lined with coal. One tent was nearly entire, but had evidently been visited by bears. Where the preserved meats and veget- ables had been deposited every thing was found entire. The canisters had been piled up in two heaps, but though exposed to all the chances of the climate for four years, they had not suffered in the slightest degree. There had been no water to rust them, and the security of the joinings had prevented the bears from smelling their contents. The canisters were large and numerous, and they took as many as they could, together with whatever they wanted of wine, spirits. bread, flour, cocoa, sugar, lime-juice, &c., all being in excellent condition. They uncasked, moreover, ten tons of charcoal. The gun-powder, in patent cases, was perfectly dry; and of this, what they did not take, they destroyed, — by Sir £. Parry's request, as it appears, to prevent its falling into the hands of the Ls- quimaux. Standing along the coast to the southward, they passed Cape Gerry ; and from hence their progress was slow, and much impeded by snow, icebergs, and con- trary winds. At the end of September, the Victory being beset with ice, and no hope of extrication presenting itself for eight successive days, there remained no doubt of her having reached her winter's home. The first step therefore to be taken, was to lighten the ship, to throw over- board the steam-engine, and to make such arrangements and regulations for the long winter, as seemed necessary for their convenience and comfort ; and which differed but little from those devised by Captain Parry. No time was lost in roofing the ship over, and surrounding her with an embankment of snow iis high up as the gunwale, where it met the canvass roofing, and sheltered the people from all wind ; the upper deck was also covered with snow two feet and a half thick, and trodden down until it became a solid mass of ice, and then sprinkled over with sand, so as to present the appearance of a rolled gravel walk. Though the temperature out of doors was frequently from 30 to '67 degrees below zero, the system of comfort and economy within was as perfect as could be desired; but even witliout, however low tli'e temperature, provided there was no wind, the men could take exercise and make bunting excursions without much inconvenience. The men attended schools ; and on Sundays', divine service was invariably performed. ' In some way or other,' says Captain Ross, 'the last three months passed away without weariness, and had, indeed, been almost unfelt.' On the 9th of January, 1830, an unexpected source of amusement occurred in the visit of a tribe of Esquimaux, to tlie number of about thirty. The village of the tribe in question consisted of twelve snow huts, which had the appearance of so many inverted basins ; and u passage leads to each through a long crooked mound. They are generally about ten leet in diameter, and immediately oppo- site the door-way is a bank of snow, two feet and a half high, level at top, and covered with various skins, which serves as the general sleeping place of the whole family. A lamp of moss and oil supplies both light and heat, so as to make the apartment perfectly comfortable. But light is admitted also by a large oval piece of ice fixed in the roof. In the crooked passage is a recess for the dogs ; the passage appears to be made crooked to enable tliem to turn the open- ing to leeward when the wind blows. Being formed entirely of blocks of snow, the completion of the fabric is the work of a few hours. Our voyagers soon discovered that these Esquimaux were able to give them some important geographical information ; that they were acquainted with Win- ter Island and Repulse Bay, and had led Acoolee, a station opposite to the latter, only thirteen days before. One man drew with his pencil several large lakes close to that part of the country where they then were, and marked Uie spots SIR JOHN ROSS. 623 where their countrymen were to be found. There was also a female geogra- pher in the party, who pointed out to them where they must sleep in their future progress, and where food was to be obtained. These people are provident, and in the summer season they kill immense quantities of game and fish, which they bury in the snow, for their winter provision, when land animals are less plenti- ful, and the weather so severe as to prevent them from making their hunting ex- oursions. About the month of April, p^eat herds of musk-oxen and rein-deer make their appearance from the southward : and bears, wolves, gluttons, foxes, harei?, and ermines, are abundant. Among the birds, swans, grouse, ptarmigans, partridges, snipes, and sea-guls are met with in considerable numbers. The seal is one of their most useful animals, both for food and clothing. But the quantities of salmon that frequent the lakes on the neighbouring isth- mus, which communicate by small rivers with the sea, are quite astonishing. (]^aptain Ross states that a party once brought from the fishery five hundred fish, •itid returned for two hundred more, which was all they could carry. This was in the month of July. They had now passed their first winter, not merely without sufiering great in- convenience, but in comparative comfort; and as ^' ng advanced they looked forward to the time when the trutli of the Esquin i > geography should be put to the test by a journey on land. On the 1st of April, Captain Ross set out on this expedition ; and he returned on the 10th. A second and third journey to- wards the end of April, put him in full possession of the geography of this isth- mus, which connects the peninsula, named by Ross, Boothia, and the land which, for the present, we are to consider as part of the continent of America ; it also separates Prince Regent'slnlet from the western sea ; and, by a fourth journey, was ascertained to be about fifteen miles in width, consisting of a. lake ten miles long in the centK;, and five miles of land. This spot, until its geography was decideJ. had raised expectations that a passage might be found hereabouts into the sea to the westward. But when the hope of a navigable passage into the western sea appeared to be at an f^i\, and that, according to the Esquimaux geography, the southern, like the V rn shore of Prince Regent's Inlet was closed round with land, the next importuiti point to be ascertained, was, whtlher the land to the southward of the isthmus was connected with, or a part of, the main land of North America, — and this could only be done by tracing the western shore as far as their provisions would allow them to proceed. Coming to a projecting headland, which the com- mander named Cape Felix, the land was seen to tend to the south-west. A fatiguing journey of twenty miles over ice and snow, brought them to another projecting headland, which they named Victory Point. Finding their stores of provisions more than half consumed, notwithstanding a reduction of their allow- ance, they found themselves obliged to return to the ship by the shortest route. On Victory Point our travellers erected a cairn of stones, six feet high, iu which was inclosed a canister containing a brief account of the proceedings of the expe- dition since its departure from England, — but without the remotest hope mat this little history would ever meet the eye of any European. Towards the end of June, while the ship was preparing for sea, in prosecu- tion of further discovery, Sir John Ross went, with a party of his people and some natives, to a river about fifteen miles from the ship, on a fishing excursion, in which he appears to have been more successful in purchasing than in catching salmon. For a large knife, an Esquimaux gave him out of one of their frozen pits, two hundred and twenty fish, averaging five pounds each. The natives take them by a spear with two divergent barbs of bone or ivory. But they now learned for the first time the use of the net, and were fully aware of its value, when they aflerwards saw so many thousands taken at a single draught. The seamen having taught them the art of making them, there is no doubt their skins, when split into stripes or threads will effectually serve the purpose, and that these poor people will thus be able to procure an inexhaustible supply of this species of food. It was not until the 19th of August that any attempt was made to get the ship out of the ice, and even then it was found impossible to move her. ' The third 624 SIR JOHN ROSS. week in August,' ma Captain Ross, ' found us where we had been since May in prospect, since September in place ; the ice was still clos*. The tempera- ture, however, was particularly favourable.' From the Ist to the 17th of Sep- tember, the time was chiefly spent in futile attempts to ^et the ship released, but on the afternoon of the latter day they succeeded in warpm^ her out into clear wa- ter, and getting her once more under sail. Their hopes ot making progress at so late a season of the year, were soon at an end; the sea became covered with icu of the worst kind, uud new ice was forming; the weather was most tempestuous. They were not yet, moreover, in a secure hurbour. The whole of October was employed in the severe labour of cutting away the ice; thus they one day gained an advance of sixteen feet, on another fitly, another forty; and after a month's incessant toil, the amount of their progress was no more than eight hundred and fifty feet. Here they were doomed to pass another winter, and as much nf the following summer as would expire before favourable circumstances might con- tribute to their liberation ; here they once more commenced hoi^sing the ship, building the embankments, and levelling the hummocks of ice near them ; an(l here they resumed their former devices for passing the long dreary winter, which appeared to have set in already with great severity. In April, 1831, Captain Ross set out on an expedition towards the isthmus, with the view of ascertaining, as nearly as the nature of the operation and accu- racy of his dipping needle would admit, the exact position of the north magnetic Pole. ' The place of the observatory,' he says, was as near to the magnetic Pole as the limited means which I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the dip, as indicated by my dipping needle, was 89^ 59', being thus within one minute of tlie vertical ; while the proximity at least of this Pole, if not its actual existence wheae we stood, was further confirmed by the action, or rather by the total inaction of the several horizontal needles then in my" possession. These were suspended in the most delicate manner possible, but there was not one which showed the slightest effort to move from the position in which it waa placed : a fact, which even tlie most moderately informed of readers must now know to be one which proves that the centre of attraction lies at a very small horizontal distance, if at any. The latitude of this place is 70** 5' 17", and its longiUide96«46'45"W.' The party having proceeded to the northward as far as Cape Nicholas, the coast was seen stretching out due north, to the distance of ten or twelve miles farther ; and the commander conclude ' 't preserved, in all probability, the some direction as far as Cape Walker, in latitude 74° 15'. At this cape there is a great inlet, leading, no doubt, to the western sea, which washes the western shore of the Boothian Peninsula, and which, in all probability, extends down to the western coast of America. ' It may well be supposed how slowly the time moved on while shut up, for the second year, during so many months. About the middle of August, 1831, the Captain says : We were weary for want of occupation, for want of variety, for want of the means of external exertion, for want of thought, and for want of society. To-day was as yesterday — and as was to-day, so would be to- morrow ; while if there was no variety, as no hope of better, is it wonderful that even the visits of barbarians were welcome; or can any thing more strongly show the nature of our pleasures than the confession that these were delightful- even as the society of London might be amid the business of London? When the winter has once in reality set in, our minds become made up on the subject; like the donnouse we wrap ourselves up in a sort of furry contentment, since better cannoi be, and wait for the times to come : it is a far other thing, to be ever awake, waiting to rise and become active, yet ever to find that all nature is still asleep, and that we had nothing more to do than to wish, and groan, and hope as best we might. When snow was our decks, snow our awnings, snow our observatories, snow iixa larders, snow our salt ; and when all the ouier uses of snow should be at last of no more avail, our cofhns and our graves were to be graves and coffins of snow. Is not this more than enough of snow, than suffices tor admiration ? Is it not worse, that during ten of the months lu a year, the • ground is snow, andice,and "slush;" th^t during the whole year, its tormenting. SIR JOHN ROSS. 625 shilling, odious presence is ever before the eye? Who more than I, luu admired the glaziers of the extreme north ; who more has lovad to contemplate the ice- bergs sailing from the Pole before the tide and the gain, floating along the ocean, through calm and through storm, like castles, and towel's, and mountains, gorge- ous in colouring, and magnificent, if often capricious in form 7 and I have sought too amid the crashing, and the splitting, and the th>mdering roarings of a sea of moving moimtains, for the sublime, and ielt that nature could do no more. In all this there has been beauty, horror, danger, every thivg that could excite ; they would have excited a poet even to the verge of madi ess. But to see, to Iiave seen, ice and snow, to have felt ice and snow forever, und nothing forever l)Ut suow and ice, during all the months of the year — to have seen and felt but uninterrupted and unceasing ice and snow, during all the months of four years — this it is that has made the sight of these most chilling and wearisome objects an t;vil which is still one in recollection, as if the remembrance would never cease.' The ship was loose on the 28th of August, and crept to the northward on her intended return, about four miles in three days. Up to the end of September, their chance of liberation became less every day — the prospect was a dismal one, as it suggested the idea that the ship would never be extricated, and that they would be compelled to abandon her with all that was on board. ' When we tirst moved from our late harbour,' says Captain Ross, ' every man looked for- ward to his three years' wages, his return to England, and his meeting witii friends and family ; the depression of their spirits was now proportionate.' Fast beset in Victoria Harbour, in October, they began to dismantle the ship, land the provisions, and place their two boats so as to be able to construct sledges under them. The winter passed over as usual, except that one case of scurvy occurred. In February, however, the medical report was less favourable than it had hitherto been; all were much enfeebled: an old wound which Captain Uo.ss had in his side, broke out with bleeding — one of the indications of scurvy. The cold was intense, and Captain Ross says, ' I do not believe there is another record of such a continuous low temperature; and it was a state of things most certainly to confirm us in our resolution of leaving the ship to her helpless fate, und attempting to save ourselves in the best manner that we could.' Accord- ingly, towards the end of April, they conmienced carrying forwards a certain quantity of provisions, and the boats with their sledges, for the purpose of ad- vancing more easily afterwards. The labour of poceeding over ice and snow was most severe, and the wind and snow-drift rendered it almost intolerable. On the 21st of May, all the provisions had been carried forward to the several deposits, except as much as would serve for about a month. In the process of forming these depoits, it was found that they had travelled two hundred and thirty-nine miles to gain about thirty in a direct line. Preparation was now made for their final departure, which took place on the 29th of May. Every thing on shore was secured, which could be of use in case they were to return, or wiiich if they did not, would prove of use to the natives. Ttie colours were tlierefore hoisted and nailed to the mast, and a parting glass was drank to the poor ship. On the 1st of July, after a full month's most fatiguing journey, they encamped on Fury Beach. The first thing to be done, was to construct a house, which was to be thirty-one by sixteen feet, and seven feet high ; to be covered with canvass. The next was to set the carpenters to work in repairing the three boats of the Fury. On the 1st of August the ice unexpectedly broke up, leaving some navigable clear water, on which they prepared to embark, in the hope of reaching Baffin's Bay before the departure of the whaling vessels. The boats were stored with two months' provisions, bedding, and other necessary articles ; and each carried seven men with an officer. The sudden setting in of ice, however, obliged them to haul the boats on shore , ?.nd from this time they crept among rocks, and ice, and icebergs along shore, on to the last day of August, when they reached the north-eastern extremity of America ; and here they were stopped by finding the sea, at the junction of Regent's Inlet with Barrows' Strait, covered with one solid mass of ice. They remained here three days, when every one agreeing *53 * 096 8IB JOHN ROSS. that ail hope of escape was at an end, and that nothing remained for them but to return to Fury Beach, they prepared for this retrogrtule movement. On the 25th of September they determined to commence their return. Their situation had now become truly serious ; it was even doubtful whether the state of the ice would allow them to work their boats back to Fury Beach, — they had but ten days' provisions left, at half allowance, nor fuel enough remaining to melt the snow for their required consumption of water. They were now also experiencing the greatest sufferings they had yet endured from the cold. They were soon convinced that going back in the boats was out of the question ; they therefore hauled them up on the beach above high-water mark, and the carpenter set about making sledges out of the empty bread caaks. On the 7th of October, afler a most toilsome and harrassing journey, they reached their house — ' our labours at an end, and ourselves once more at home.' Here, of the provi»ious left behind them, flour, sugar, soups, peas, vegetables, pickles, and lemon-juice were in abundance ; but of preserved meats there re- mained not more than would suflice for their voyage in the boats during the next season. The winter at Fury Beach passed away in the same monotonous man- ner as the preceding had done. The chief event which cast a damp on all, was the death of the carpenter, on the last day of February,1833. The want of ex- ercise, of sufficient employment, short allowance of food, lowness of spirits, produced by the unbroken sight of the dull, uniform, melancholy waste of snow and ice had the effect of reducing the whole party to a more indifferent state of health than had hitherto been experienced. Two of the seamen were far gone with the scurvy, and all were weary of their miserable home. At length tiie long looked for period arrived, when it was deemed necessary to abandon the house, in search of better fortune ; and on the 7th of July, being Sundiy, the last divine service was performed in their winter habitation. The following day they bade it adieu forever ! and having been detained a short time at Batty Bay, and iinding tlie ice to separate, and a lane of water open out, they succeeded in crossing over to the eastern side of Prince Regent s Inlet. Standing along the southern shore of Barrows' Strait, on the 26Ui of August they discovered a sail, — and, after some tantalizing delays, they succeeded in making themselves visible to the crew of one of her boats. The account of the meeting between the ciew and our travellers, we give in the language of Cap- tain Ross. " The vessel was soon along side, when the mate addressed us, by presuming that we had met with some misfortune and lost our ship. This be- ing answered in the affirmative, I requested to know the name of his vessel, and expressed our wish to be taken on board. I was answered that it was " the Isa- bella, of Hull, once commanded by Captain Ross ;" on which I stated that I was the identical man in question, and my people the crew of the Victory. , That the mate, who commanded this boat, was as much astonished at this information as he appeared to be, I do not doubt; while with the usual blunderheadedness of men on such occasions, he assured me that I had been dead two years. I easily convinced him, however, that what ought to have been true according to his estimate, was a somewhat premature conclusion ; as the bear-Uke form of the whole of us might have shown him, had he taken time to consider, that we were certainly not whaling gentlemen, and that we carried tolerable evidence of .our being " true men and no impostors," on our backs, and in our starven and un- shaven countenances. A hearty congratulation followed of course, in the true seaman style, and, after a few natural inquiries, he added that the Isabella was commanded by Captain Humphreys ; when he immediately went off in his boat, to comiimnicate this information on board — repeating that we had long been given up as lost, not by them alone, but by all England. As we approached slowly afler him to tue ship, ne jumped up the side, and in a minute the rigging was manned ; while we were saluted with three cheers as we came within cable's length, and were not long in getting on board of my old vessel, where we were all received by Captain Humphreys with a hearty seaman's welcome. Though we had not been supported by our names and our characters, we should not the less have claimed from charity, the attentions that we received, SIR JOHN ROSS. 627 for never was teen a more miserable set of wretches ; while, that we were a re- pulsive looking people, none of us could doubt. If, to be poor, wretchedly poor, as far as all our present property was concerned, was to have a claim on charity, no one could well deserve it more; but if to look so, be to frighten away the so-called charitable, no beggar that wanders in Ireland could have outdone ua in exciting the repugnance of those who have not kn'own what poverty can be. Unshaven since I know not when, dirty, dressed in the rags of wild beasts instead of the tatters of civilization, and starved to the very bones, our gaunt and grim looks, when contrasted with the well-dressed and well-fed men around us, made us all feel, I believe for the first time, what we really were, as well as vvhnt we seemed to others. Poverty is without half its mark unless it be contrasted with wealth; and what we might have known to be true in the past days, we had forgotten to think of, till we were thus reminded what we truly were, as well as seemed to be. But the ludicrous goon took place of all other feelings ; in such a crowd and such confusion, all serious thought was impossible, while the new buovoncy of our spirits made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene which now opened. Every man was hungry and was to be fed, all were ragged and were to be clothed, there was no one to whom washing was not indispensible, nor one whom his beard did not deprive of all EngUsh semblance. AH, every thing too, was to be done at once ; it was washing, dressing, shaving, eating, all inter- mingled ; while, in the midst of all^ there were interminable questions to be ask- ed and answered on all sides ; the adventures of the Victory, our own escapes, the politics of England, and the news which was now four years old. But all subsided into peace at last. The sick were accommodated, the seamen disposed of, and all was done, for all of us, which care and kindness could perform. Night at length brought quiet and serious thought, and I trust there was not one man among us who did not there express, where it was due, his gratitude for that interposition which had raised us all from despair, and had brought us from the very borders of a not distant grave, to life, and friends, and civilization. Long accustomed, however, to a cold bed on the hard snow or the bare rock, few could sleep amid the comfort of our new accommodations. I was myself compelled to leave the bed which had been kindly assigned me, and take my abode in a chair for the night ; nor did it fare much better with the rest. It was for time to reconcile us to this sudden and violent change, to break through what had become habit, and to inure us once more to the usages of our former days." After a favourable passage the travellers landed at Hull on the 18th of October, 1833. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. The discoveries of Hearne and Mackenzie established the great fact that tlicrc is a northern coast in America, washed by the Arctic Ocean, which forms, in all probability, its continuous boundary; t:nd they demonstrated the practicabilit) nl' reaching this limit by passing over the va<>t plains which stretch northward frotii Canada and Hudson's Bay. The voyages of Captain Parry, also, which have been already detailed, fully corroborated this opinion ; and it appeared evident that another expedition, properly conducted, might reach this shore, and more fully examine its whole extent. Such an expediuon, accordingly, sailed from England on the 23d of May, 1820, its command being intrusted to Lieutenant, now Sir John Franklin, assisted by Dr. Ilichardson, an able mineralogist and natural historian. During the first portion of their journey, they followed the chain of the great lakes, instead of the more eastern track pursued by Hearne, and having descen'l- ed tlie Coppermine River, arrived, on the 21st of July, at the shore of the Arctic Ocean, where tliey commenced their career of discovery. Important as v ^ ^, tlie particulars of this survey, when considered in relation to the furtherance of «reograpliicul science, a minute detail is here unnecessary, and we shall attempt only a general sketch. Paddling along the coast to the eastward, on the inside of a crowded range of islands, they encamped on shore after a run of thirty-seven miles, in which they experienced little interruption, and saw only a small iceberg in the distance, though that beautiful luminous cit'ulgence emitted from Uie congregated ices, and distinguished by the name of ice-blinli, was distinctly visible to the north- ward. The coast was found of moderate height, easy of access, and cover- ed with vegetation; but the islands were rocky and barren, presenting higii eliflfs of a columnar structure. In continuing their voyage, the dangers which heset a navigator in these dreadful polar solitudes thickened gloomily around them : the coast became broken and steril, and at length rose into a high and rugged promontory, against which some large masses of ice had drifted, threat- ening destruction to their slender canoes. In attempting to round this cape the wind rose, an awful gloom involved the sky, and the thunder burst over their heads, compelling them to encamp till the storm subsided. They then, at the imminent risk of having the canoes crushed by the floating ice, doubled the drea- ry promontory, which they denominated Cape Barrow, and entered Detention Harbour, where they landed. Around them the land consisted of mountains of granite, rising abruptly from the water's edge, destitute of vegetation, and at- taining an elevation of 1400 or 1500 feet; seals and small deer were tfie only animals seen, and the former were so shy that all attempts to approach within shot were unsuccessful. With the deer the hunters were more fortunate ; but these were not numerous ; and while the ice closed gradually around them, and their little stock of provisiona, consistiDg of pemmican and cured beef, everyday diminished, it was impossible not to regard their situation with uneasmese. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 029 Rounding Cape Kater, they entered Arctic Sound, and sent a party to explore a river upon the banks of which they expected to find an Elsquimaux encamp* nient. All, however, was silent, desolate, and deserted : even these hardy na- tives, bred amid the polar ices, hud removed from so barren a spot, and the hun- ters returned with two small deer and a brown bear; the latter animal so lean and sickly looking that the men declined eating it; but the officers boiled its paws, and found them excellent. Proceeding along the easte'-n shore of Arctic Sound, to which they gave the name of Banke^ii'd Peninsula, the expedition made its painful way along a coast indented by bays, and in many places studded with islands, till on the 10th of August they reached the open m^a; and sailing, us they imagined, between the continent uud u lurge island, found to their deep disappointment that, instead of an open channel, they were in the centre of a vast buy. The state of the expe- dition now culled for the most serious consideration on the part of the command- er. So much time had already been spent in exploring the sounds and inlets, that all hope of reaching Repulne Buy was vain; both cunoes hud sustuined ma- teriol injury; the fuel was expended; their provisions were sufficient only for three duvs; the appearances of the setting in of the urctin winter were too une- quivocal to be mistaken ; the deer, which had hitherto supplied them with fresh meat, would, it was well known, soon disappear: the geese and other aquatic birds were already winging their way to the southward; while the men, who had up to this moment displayed the utmost counige, began to look dishearten- ed, and to entertain serious apprehensions for their safety. Under these circiun- Btances, Franklin, with the concurrence of his otticers, determined not to endan- ger the lives of his people by a fardier advance; and, uller spending four days in a minute survey of the bay, it was resolved to return by Hood's River to Fort Enterprise. Franklin's researches, as fur as prosecated at this time, favoured the opinion of those who contended for the practicability of a north-west pas- sage. It appeared probable that the coast ran east and west in the latitude as- signed to Mackenzie's River, and little doubt could, in his opinion, be entertain- ed regarding the existence of a continued sea in that direction. The portion over which they passed was navigable for vessels of any size ; and the ice they met with, after quitting Detention Harbour, would not have arrested a strong boat, while the chain of islands afforded shelter from all heavy seas, and there were good harbours at convenient distances. Having with much severe priva- tion completed their course from Point Tumagain in Melville Bay to the en- trance of Hood's River, they ascended as high as the first rapid and encamped, terminating here their voyage on the Arctic Sea, during which they had gone over 650 geographical miles. On the prospect of commencing their land journey the Canadians could not conceal their satisfaction; and the evening previous to their departure waa Eassed in talking over their past adventures, and congratulating each other i^ aving at length turned their bucks upon the sea, — little anticipating that the most painful and hazardous portion of the expedition was yet to come. Before setting off, an assortment of iron materials, beads, looking glasses, and other ar- ticles, were put up in a conspicuous situation for the Esquimaux, and the Eng- lish union was planted on the loftiest sand hill, where it might '>e seen by any ships passii"; in the offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box a letter con- taining an ' utlilfe of the proceedings of the expedition, the latitude and longi- tude of the principal places, and the course intended to be pursued towards Slave Lake. They now p-oceeded up the river in their canoes, and though upon a short allowance of provisions, oie produce of their nets and fowUng- pieces furnished for a few days enough to ward oft' absolute wur.t, but they were often on the very brink of it. Their progress was nuich interrupted by shoals and rapids, and one eveiung they encamped at the lower end of a narrow cha'«m, the walls of which were upwards of 200 feet high, and in some places only a few yards apart. Into this the river precipitates itself, forming two magnificent cas- cades, to which they gave the name of Wilberforce Falls. On taking u survey of its farther course, from a neighboring hill, it was discovered to be so rapid and shallow that all progress in the large canoea seemed impossible. Two smaller 630 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 'V' boats were therefore constructed ; and on the Ist of September, they sei off with the intention of proceeding in as direct a line as possible to the part of Point Lake opposite their spring encampment, — a distance which appeared compara- tively trifling, being only 149 miles. Their luggage consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chisels, astronomical instruments, clothing blankets, ihree ket- tles, and the two canoes, each so light as to be carried easily by a single man. But disaster attacked them in their very first stage. A storm of snow came on, accompanied by a high wind, against which it was very ditiicult to carry the ca- noes, that were damaged by the falls of those who bore them. The ground was covered with small stones, and much pain was endured by the carriers, whose soft moose skin shoes were soon cut through. The cold was intense ; and on encamping they looked in vain lor wood ; a fire of moss was all they could pro- cure, which served them to cook their supper, but gave so little heat that they were glad to creep under their blankets. Having ascended next morning one of tlie higlie.=' hills, they ascertained that the rivei" »ook a westerly course, and Franklin, thinking that to follow it (iirther would lead to a more tedious journey than their exhausted strength could en- dure, determined to quit its banks and make H ..-ectly for Point Lake. Emerg- ing, therefore, from the valley, they crossed a barren country, varied only by marshy levels and small lakes. The weather was fine, but unfortunately no berry-bearing plants were found, the surface being covered in the more humid spots with a few grasses, and in other places with some gray melancholy lichens. On encamping, the last piece of pemmican, or pounded flesh, was distributed, with a little arrow root, for supper. The evening was warm ; but dark clouds overspread the sky, and they experienced those sudden alternations of climute which occur in the polar latitudes at this season. At midnight it rained in tor- rents; but towards morning a snow storm arose, accompanied by a violentgale. During the whole day the storm continued, and not having the comfort of a fire the men remained in bed, but the tents were frozen ; around them the snow had drifted ,to the depth of three feet, and even within .lay several inches tliick on their blankets. Though the storm had not abated, any longer delay was impos- sible, for they knew every hour would increase the intensity of an arctic winter; and though faint from fasting, and with their clothes stiffened by frost, it was ab- solutely necessary to push forward. They sutfered much in packing the frozen tents and bedclothes, and could hardly keep their hands out of their fur mittens. On attempting to move, Franklin was seized with a fainting fit, occasioned by hunger and exhaustion, and on recovering refused to eat a morsel of portable soup, which was immediately prepared for him, as it had been drawn from the only remaining meal of the party. The people, however, kindly crowded round him, and overcame his reluctance. The effect of eating was his rapid recovery; and the expedition moved on. Disaster now crowded on disaster. The wind rose so high, that those who carried the canoes were frequently blown down, and one of the boats was so much shattered as to be rendered unserviceable. The ground was covered with snow ; and though the swamps were frozen, yet the ice was often not suf- ficiently strong; so that they plunged in knee deep. A fire, however was made of the bark and timbers of the broken canoe ; and aff '^r having fasted three days, their last meal of portable soup and arrow root was cooked. Each man's allowance at this melancholy dinner was exceedingly scanty ; but it allayed the pangs of hunger and encouraged them to press forward at a quicker rate. They had now reached a more hilly country, strewed with large stones, and covered witli gray lichen, well known to the Canadians by its name tripe de roche. In cases of extremity, it is boiled and eaten; but its taste is nauseous, its quality purga- tive, and it sometimes produces an intolerable griping and loathing. The part}', not being aware of this, gathered a considerable quantity. A few partridges also had been shot; and at night some willows were dug up from under the snow, with which they lighted a fire and cooked their supper. Next day they came to Cracrofl,'8 River, flowing to the westward over a chan- nel of large stones that rendered it impossible to cross in the canoe. No alter- native was left but to attempt a precariou«i passage over some rocks at a rapid ; SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 631 and in effecting this some of the men, losing their balance, slipped into the water. They were instantly rescued by their companions ; but so intense was the frost, that their drenched clothes became caked with ice, and they suffered much dur- ing the remainder of the day's march. The hunters had fallen in with some par- tridges, which they shot, and they found enough of roots to make a fire ; so that their supper, though scanty, was comparatively comfortable. Next momirg they pushed forward with ardour, and passed the river Congecathawhachaga of Mr. Hearne. The country which lay before them was hilly, and covered with snow to a great depth. The sides of the hills were traversed by sharp angular rocks, where the drifted snow, filling up the interstices, presented a smooth but fallacious surfiice, which often gave way and precipitated them into the chasms with their heavy loads. In this painful and arduous manner they struggled for- ward several days, feeding on tripe de roche, which was so frozen to the rocks that their hands were benumbed before a meal could be collected, and so desti- tute of nutritive juices that it allayed hunger only for a very short time. At length reaching the summit of a hill, they, to their great delight, beheld a herd of musk oxen feeding in the valley below ; an instant halt was made, the best hunt- ers were called out, and while they proceeded with extreme caution in a circui- tous route, their companions watched their proceedings with intense anxiety. When near enough to open their fire, the report reverberated through the hills, and one of the largest cows was seen to falh "This success," says Franklin, in that simple and beautiful account of his journey which any change of language would only weaken, "infused spirit into our starving party. The contents of its stomach were devoured upon the spot ; and tlie raw intestines, which were next attacked, were pronounced by the most delicate of the party to be excellent. A few willows, whose tops were seen peeping through the snow in the bottom of the valley, were quicldy grubbed, the tents were pitched, end supper cooked and devodred with avidity. It was the sixth day since we l,ad had a good meal. I do not think that we witnessed, through the course of our journey, a more striking proof of the wise dispensation of the Almighty, and of the weakness of our own judgment, than on this day. We had considered the dense (bg which prevailed throughout the morning as almost the greatest inconvenience which could have befallen us, since it rendered the air extremely cold, and prevented us from distinguishing any distant ol)ject towards which our course could be di- rected. Yet this very darkness enabled the party to get to the top of the hill, which bounded the valley wherein the musk oxen were grazing, without being perceived. Had the herd discovered us and taken the alarm, our hunters, in their present state of debility, would in all probabiUity have liiiled in approaching them." On the following day a strong southerly wind blowing with a snow drift, they took a day's rest, and as only enough remained of the musk ox to serve for two days, they contented themselves with a single meal. Next morning, though the gale had not diminished, they pushed forward, and notwithstanding their rest and recent supply of animal food, the whole party felt greater weakness than they had hitherto experienced. The weather was hazy, bat after an hour's march the sky cleared, and th6y found themselves on the borders of a lake, of which they could not discern the termination m either direction. In these cir- cumstances they travelled along its hanks to the westward in search of a crossing place. Credit, one of the Canadians, left the party in hopes of falling in with deer , but did not return ; and on encamping in the evening, hungry and fatigued, they had to divide for supper a single partridge and some tripe de roche. This weed from the first had been unpalatable, but now became insupportably nauseous, and began in many to produce severe pains and bowel complaints, especially in Mr. Hood, one of the young officers attached to the expedition. This solitary partridge was the last morsel of anunfil food that remained ; and they turned with deep anxiety to the hope of catching some Hsh in Uio lake, but discovered that the persons entrusted with them had improvidently thrown away three of the nets and burnt the floats on leaving Ilood'.s River. Things now began to look very gloomy; and as the men were daily getting weaker, it was judged ex- pedient to lighten their burdens of every thing except ammunition, clothing, and 632 $IR JOHN FRANKLIN. the instraments necessary to guide them on their way. The dipping needle, tlie azimuth compass, the magnet, a large thermometer, and the few books they car- ried, were therefore deposited at this encampment, after having torn out from these latter the tables necessary for working the latitude and longitude. Re- wards also were oromised by Franklin to such of the party as should kill any animals, and in the morning they prepared to go forward. At this moment a fine trait of disinterestedness occurred; as the officers as- sembled round a small fire, enduring an intense degree of hunger whiclv they had no means of satisfying, Perrault, one of the Canadians, presented each of them with a piece of meat out of a little store which he had saved from his al- lowance. " It was received," says Franklin, " with great thankfulness, and such an instance of self-denial and kindness filled onr eyes with tears." Pressing for- ward to a river issuing from the lake, they met their comrade Credit, and re- ceived the joyful intelligence that he had killed two deer. One of these wus immediately cut up and prepared for breakfast ; and having sent some of the party for the other, the rest proceeded down the river, which was about 300 yardls broad, in search of a place to cross. Having chosen a spot where the cur- rent was smooth, immediately above a rapid, Franklin and two Canadian bout- men, St. Germain and Uelauger, pushed from tiie shore. The breeze was fresh, and the current stronger than they imagined, so that they approached the very edge of the rapid; and Belanger, eiD{)loying his paddle to steady the canoe, lo^t his balance, and overset the bark in tlie middle of it. The party clung to its side, and reaching a rock where the stream was but waist deep, kept their foot- ing till the cauoe was emptied of water, after which Belanger held itsteady while iSt. Germain replaced Frankhn in it and dexterously leaped in himself. Such was their situation that if the man who stood on the rock had raised his foot they would have been lost. His friends therefore were compelled to leave him, and after a second disaster, in which the canoe struck, and was as expeditiously right- ed as before, they reached the opposite bank. Meanwhile Belanger sutiered extremely, immersed to his middle, and enduring intense cold. He called pite- ously for relief, and St. Germain, re-embarking, attempted to reach him, but was hvirried down the rapid, and on coming ashore was so benumbed as to be incapable of further exertion. A second ettbrt, but equally unsuccessful, was made by Adam : they ttjen tried to carry out a line formed of the slings of the men's loads, but it broke, and was carried down the stream. At last, when he was almost exhausted, the canoe reached him with a small cord of one of the remain- ing nets, and he was dragged to shore quite insensible. On being stripped, rol- led in blankets, and put to bed between two men, he recovered. During these operations Franklin was left alone upon the bank, and it seemed a matter of the utmost doubt whether he should ever be rejoined by his companions. " It impossible," says he, " to describe my sensations as I witnessed the various un- successful attempts to relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my seeing distinctly what was going on, and I continued pacing up and down the rock on which I stood, regardless of the coldness of my drenched and stiffening garments. The canoe, in every attempt to reach him, was hurried down the rapid, and was lost to view among the rocky islets with a fury that seemed to threaten instant destruction; once indeed I fancied that I saw it overwhelmed in the waves; such an event would have been fatal to the whole party. Separated as I was from my companions, without gun, ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making a fire, and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily sealed. My com- panions, too, driven to the necessity of coasting the lake, must have sunk under the fatigue of rounding its innumerable arms and bays, which, as we learned af- terward from the Indians, are very extensive. By the goodness of Providence, however, we were spared at tliat time and some of us have been permitted to offer up our tiianksgiving in a civilized land for tlie signal deliverance we then and afterward experienced. On setting out next morning, Perrault brought in a fine male deer, which raised the spirits of the party, as it secured them in provisions for two days ; and they trusted to support themselves for a diird on the skin which they carried with them. Having ascended the Willingham Mountains, they entered upon a rug- is Sm JOHN FRANKLIN* 633 ged country intersected by deep ravines, the passage of which was eo difficult that they could only make ten miles with great fatigue. The deer was now picked to the last morsel, and they ate pieces of the singed hide with a little tripe de roche. At other times this meal might have sufficed ; but, exliausted by slen- der food and continued toil, their appetites had become ravenous. Hitherto events had been so meicifully ordered that in their utmost need some little sup- ply in the tripe de roche had never failed them; but it was the will of God that their confidence should be yet more strongly tried ; for they now entered upon a level country covered with snow, where even this miserable lichen was no longer to be found; and a bed of Iceland moss, which was boiled for supper, proved so bitter tliat none of the party, though enduring the extremities of hunger, could taste more than a few spoonfuls. Another distress now attacked them : the in- tensity of the cold increased, while they became less fit to endure it. Their blankets did not sutiice to keep them warm, and the slightest breeze pierced through their debilitated frames. " The reader," says Franklin, " will probably be desirous to know how we passed our time in such a comfordess situation. The first operation after encamping was to thaw our frozen shoes, if a sufficient fire could be made ; dry ones were dien put on. Each person then wrote his notes of the daily occurrences, and evening prayers were read. As soon as supper was prepared it was eaten, generally in the dark, and we went to bed and kept up a cheerful conversation until our blankets were thawed by the heat of our bodies, and we hi^d gathered sufficient warmtli to enable us to iaU asleep. On many nights we had not even the luxiiry of going to bed in dry clothes ; for, when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes, we dared not venture to pull them off, lest ffiey should freeze so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morning, and therefore inconvenient to carry." Hunger, fatigue, and disappointment began now to have a calamitous effect upon the tempers of the men. One, who carried the canoe, after several severe falls, threw down his burden, and obstinately refused to resume it. It was ac- cordingly given to another, who proved stronger, and pushed forward at so rap- id a rate that Mr. Hood, whose weakness was now extreme, could not keep up with them; and as Franklin attempted to pursue and stop them, the whole party was separated. Dr. Richardson, who had remained behind to gather tripe de- roche, joined him, and on advancing they found the men encamped among some willows, where they found some pieces of skin and a few bones of deer which had been devoured by the wolves. On these they had made a meal, hav- ing burnt and pounded the bones, boiled the skin, and added their old shoes to the mess. With liiis no fault could be found ; but on questioning the person to whom the canoe had been instrusted, it was discovered that he had left the boat behind, it having, as he said, been broken by a fall and rendered entirely useless. To the infatuated obstinacy of the men in refusing to retrace tlieir steps and fetch it, even in its shattered state, is to be ascribed nmch of the distress of ffieir subsequent journey. Every argument seemed entirely thrown away; and they had appaiently lost all hope of being preserved. When the hunters, who had been out for some time, did not make their appearance, they became furious at the idea of having been deserted, and throwing down their bundles, declared tliey would follow them at all ha/urds, and leave the weakest to keep up as they best could. The remonstrances of the officers at length opened their minds to the madness of such a scheme ; and on encamping in the evening they found some pines seven or eight feet high, which furnished a comfortable fire, when they made tlieir supper of tripe de roche. Next iiiorniiig a herd of deer came in sight, and they killed five, — a supply which, considering the extremity of hunger and despair to which Uiey were reduced, was especially providential. It was evident that He, wiliiout whom not a sparrow falls to the giound, was with them in their extremity of distress ; and casting themselves upon his care, every heart expanded with hope and gratitude. The Canadians now earnestly petitioned for a day's rest. They pleaded their recent suilerings, and dial die enjoyment of two substantial meals, after eight days of famine, would enable Uiem to press forward more vigorously. The 54 634 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. flesh, the ekins, and even the stomachs of the deer were accordingly equally (!i> vided among the party, and some of them suffered severely from too free an in- dulgence in the use of this food at\er so long an abstinence. Next morning the ]>arty resumed their journey, and a(\er a walk of three miles came to the Cop- permine River. Its current was strong, but with a canoe there would have been no difficult in crossing; and the reckless folly of the men in abandoning their only means of transport was now brought strongly to their mind. No ford could be discovered, and the plan was suggested of framing a vessel of willows, covered with the canvass of the tent; butthe most experienced boatmen declared the willows were too small to bear the weight; and no pines could be found. Nothing remaincfd but to resume their march along the borders of the lake ; and looking out eagerly, but in vain, for some fordable place, they encamped at the east end. Anxious to adopt every possible means for preserving the party, Franklin sent Mr. Back forward with the interpreters to hunt. He was direct- ed to halt at the first pines and construct a raft ; and if his hunters had killed ani- mals sufficient to provision them, he was to cross immediately and send the In- dians with supplies of meat to the party behind. At this time it was discovered that two of the men had stolen part of the offi- cer's provision, though it had been doled out with the strictest impartiality, and tney saw their leaders suiieriug more acutely than themselves. To punish this was impossible, except by the threat that they should forfeit their wages, which .])roduced Utile efiect. Despondency had deeply seized upon the party, and in the morning strict orders could not prevent them from straggling in search of the remains of animals; in consequence of which much time was Tost in halting. ,and ammunition in firing guns to collect diem. The snow, however, had dis- appeared, and pressing forward with more alacrity they came to an arm of the lake running nortli-east. The idea of making the long circuit round it was dis- tressing, and liaving halted to consult what was to be done, some one discovered in a clift" tlie carcass of a deer which had fallen into n chasm. It was quite putrid, -but evon in that state appeared delicious, and a fire being kindl 3d a large portion ■ was soon devoured; while the men, cheered by this imexpectfed breakfast, re- gained their confidence, and requested leave to return to the lapid, insisting on the practicability, of constructing a sufficiently strong rafl of wiL'ows, though they . had formerly pronounced it impossible. Their advice was folIoNVed ; and hav- ing sent off Augustus, one of tlie interpreters, to inform Mr. Back of this change of plan, they commenced their retrograde j,uovement, and encamped at liight in a deep valley among some large willows, where they supped on the remf.ins of . the putrid deer. Next day tliey regained the rapids, commenced cutting willows for the raft, and a reward ot 300 livres was promised by Franklin to Uie person who slvtiM convey a line across the river strong enough to manage the raft and trant;poi:t the party. The willows when cut were bound into fagots, and the work com- pleted; but the greenness of tlie wood rendered it heavy, and incapable of snp- , porting more than one man at a time. Still riiey hoped to be able to cross ; but all depended on getting a line carried to the opposite bank, through a current VSO yards wide, strong, deep, and intensely cold. Belanger and Benoit, the two strongest men of the party, repeatedly attempted to take the raft over, but for want of oars were driven back. The tent staves were then tied together, and formed a strong pole; but it was not long enough to reach the bottom even at a short distance from the shore. Dr. Richardson next produced a paddle he had brought from the coiist, but which w;is ,'ound not powerful enough to impel the rail against a strong breeze. The fuihue of every attempt occasioned a deep despondency, which threatened to have the most fatid effects, when Dr. llichardson, willi a disinterested couruge that made him forget his own weakness, threw off his upper garments, and attempted to swim wiUi a rope to the oppo- site bank. Plunging in with the line round his n>iddle he at first made some way, but the extreme cold was too much lor him, and in a few moments \m arms became powerless; still, being an expert swimmer, lie not only kept him- self atloat, but made way by turning on his back and using his legs, so that he had nearly reached the other bide, wficn, to the inexpressible anguish of thost- SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 63o who watched his progress, his limbs became benumbed, and he sank. A!l hands now hauled ou the line, and drew him ashore almost lifeless; but placed before a fire of willows, and stripped of his wet clothes, he gradually revived enough to give directions as to the mode of treating him. His thin and emariated limbs, whicli were now exposed to view, produced an involuntary exclamai:ou of com- passion and surprise : — " Ah, que nous sommes maigres !" said the French Ca- nadians ; but it is probable that few of them would have presented so gaunt and attenuated an appearance as the brave and excellent man who had thus nearly fallen a sacrifice to his humanity, for it was discovered about this time that the hunters were in the practice of witliholding the game wliich they shot, and devouring it in secret. ^ Soon after this the party were joined by Mr. Back, who had traced the lake about fifteen miles farther up without discovering any place where it was possi- ble to get across; and towards evening Credit, who had been out hunting, re- turned without any game of his own killing; but brought the antlers and back- bone of a deer shot during the summer. These relics had already been picked clean by the wolves and birds of prey, but the marrow remained in the spine ; and though completely putrid, and so acrid as to excoriate the lips, it was not the less acceptable. The bones were rendered friable by burning, and the whole eagerly devoured. St. Germain, one of the voyagers, now suggested that a ca- noe might be made of the painted canvass used to wrap up the bedding, and of- fered to construct it upon a frame of willows. For this purpose he and Adam removed to a clump of willows, while another party proceeded to the spot where they had encamped on tlie 25th, to collect pitch among the small pines to pay over the seams. A snow storm at this moment came ou, and the sufferings of the men hourly increasing, a deep gloom settled upon their spirits. Mr. Hood was by this time reduced to a perfect shadow; Mr. Back required the support of a stick; Dr. Richardson was lame ; and Franklin so feeble that, after a strug- gle of three hours, he found himself utterly unable to reach the spot where St. Germain was at work, a distance of only three-quarters of a mile, and returned completely exhausted. The Canadian voyagers had now fallen into a state of despondency which bordered on despair, and, indifferent to their fate, refused to make the slightest exertion. The onicers were unable to undergo the labour of gathering the tripe de roche, and Samandre, the cook, sullenly declined contin- uing his labours. At this miserable crisis the conduct of John Hepburn, an English sailor, was especially admirable, presenting a striking contrast to the gloomy selfishness of the Canadians. His firm reliance on the watcliftil good- ness of God, and a cheerful resignation to his will, never for a moment forsook him ; and, animated by this blessed principle, his strength appeared to be pre- served as the means of saving the party. He collected the tripe de roche for the officers' mess, cooked and served it out, and showed the most indefatigable zeal in his efforts to relieve their sufferings. A gleam of hope at length arose when St. Germain completed the canoe. It was impossible not to feel that their last chance of escape seemed to hang upon this little bark; — would it prove sufficient for their purpose? or, constructed of such wretched materials, would it not at once sink to the bottom ? Amid this conflict of contending emotions it was launched on the river, and every heart bounded with exultation when it floated, and St. Germain transported himself to the opposite side. It was drawn back, and, one by one, the whole party were ferried over, though from the leaky state of the Httle bark, their garmenu and bedding were completely drenched. Franklin immediately despatched Mr. back and three men to push on to Fort Enterprise in search of the Indians, while he himself followed "Svith the rest. Nothing could exceed the joy of the Canadian voyagers at this unlooked for deliverance. Their spirits rose from the deepest despondency into tumultuoui exultation. They shook the ofRccrs by the hand, cried out that their worst dirti' culties were at an end, and expressed a confident hope of being able to reach Fort Enterprise in the course of a few daya, — a bonterous and sudden confi. dence, to which the silent gratitude and quiet resolution of the pious Hepburn presented a striking coostrast. 636 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. Their tents and bedclothes were so much frozen, and the men, who had kin- dled a small fire, so weary, that it was eight in the morning before the bundles were packed, and the jiarty set forward. They travelled in single files, each at a smaLl distance from his neighbour. Mr. Hood, who was now nearly exhaust- ed, was obliged to walk at a gentle pace in the rear. Dr. Richardson kindly keep- ing beside him ; while Franklin led the foremost men, that he might make them halt occasionally till the stragglers came up. Credit, hitherto one of their must active hunters, became lamentably weak from the effects of tripe de roche on his constitution, and Vaillaiit, from the same cause was getting daily more ema- ciated. They only advanced six miles during the day, and at night satisfied the cravings of hunger by a small quantity of tripe de roche mixed up with some scraps of roasted leather. During the night the wind increased to a strong gale, which continuing next day, 'besides being piercingly cold, filled the atmosphere with a thick snow drift. Having boiled and eaten the remains of their old shoes, and every shred of leather which could be picked up, they set forward at nine over bleak hills separated by equally barren valleys. ^ In this manner they journeyed till noon, not without much straggling and fre- ?uent halts, at which time Samandre came up with the melancholy news that Jredit and Vaillant had dropped down and were utterly unable to proceed. Dr. Richardson went back, and discovering Vaillant about a mile and a half in the rear, assured him that a fire was kindled a little way on, and that he would re- cover if he could but reach it ; the poor fellow struggled up on his feet and fee- bly tried to advance, but fell down every step in the deep snow. Leaving him, Dr. Richardson retraced his steps about a mile farther in a fruitless search for Credit. In returning he passed Vaillant, who had fallen down, utterly unable to renew his efforts to rejoin the party, Belanger went back to carry his bur- den and assist him to the fire ; but the cold had produced such a numbness that he could not speak or make the slightest exertion. The stoutest of the party were now implored to make a last effort to transport him to the fire, but declar- ed themselves utterly unable for the task. They eagerly requested leave to throw down tlieir loads, and proceed with the utmost speed to Fort Enterprise: a scheme projected in the despair of the moment, and which must have brought destruction upon the whole. Matters had now reached a dreadful crisis ; it was necessary to come to an immediate decision regarding their ultimate measures, and a plan proposed by Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson was adopted. These gentlemen consented to remain, with a single attendant, at the first spot where there was sufficient fire- wood and tripe de roche for ten days' consumption, while Franklin and the rest were to proceed with all expedition to Fort Enterprise, and send immediate as- sistance. This scheme jiromised to relieve them of a consideraTile portion of their burdens: for one of the tents and various other articles were to be left; and it gave poor Credit and Vaillant a fairer opportunity, should they revive, of regaining their companions. On tlic resolution being communcated to the uieii, they were cheered with the prospect of an alleviation of their misery, and press- ed forward in search of a convenient spot for the proposed separation. Near nightfall they encamped under the lee of a hill among some willows, which fur- nished a small fire, but not sufficient to thaw their frozen clothes; and no tripe de roche having been found during the day, they lay down hungry, cold, and full of the gloomiest appiehensions, while sleep fled from their eyelids, and the images of their dying companions rose before their imagination in colours which made them shudder for a fate that might soon become their own. Next morn- ing the weather, providentially, was mild, and setting out at nine they arrived towards noon at a thicket of willows in the neighbourhood of some rocks bear- ing a pretty full supply of tripe de roche. Here Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood determined to remain. The tent was pitched, a barrel of ammunition and other articles were deposited, and Hepburn, who volunteered the service, was ap- pointed to continue with them. The rest of the party now had only to carry a single tent, the ammunition, and the ofhcers' journals, in addition to their own clothes and a single blanket for Captain Franklin. When all was ready, the whole party united In thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty God for their xau^ SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 63t tual presen'ation, and separated with t!ie melancholy reflection that it might in ull probability be the lust time they siionld ever again meet in this world. On leaving their friends, Captain Franklin and his party descended into a more level country ; but the snow lay so deep, and they were so little able to wade through it, that they encamp»Ml after a painful march of only four miles and a half, in which Belanger and Michel, an Iroquois, were left far behind, yet still titruggling forward. In the evening they came in dreadfully exhausted, and Belanger, till now one of the strongest of the party, could not refrain from tears as he declared he was totally unable to proceed, and implored permission to re- turn to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood. Michel made the same request, and it was agreed that they should do so. The cold of the night was excessive, and the men were so weal^ that they could not raise the tent; from its weight it was impossible to transport it fom place to place, and it was cut up, the canvass serving them for a covering; but, though they lay close together, the intense frost deprived them of sleep. Having no tripe de roche, they had supped on an infusion of the Labrador tea plant, with a iew morsels of burnt leather. Mi- chel and Belanger, being apparently more exhausted in the morning than over night, were left, while the rest moved forward. After a very short progress Per- rautt was attacked with a fit of dizziness, but, on halting a little, again proposed to proceed. In ten minutes, however, he sank down, and weeping aloud, de- clared his total inability to go on. He was accordingly advised to join Michel and Belanger, — a proposal in which he acquiesced. These examples of the to- tal liiilure of the strongest in the party, had a very unfavorable effect on the spir- its of the rest, and the exertion of wading through the snow and crossing a lake on the ice, where they were frequently blown down, was so severe that Fontano, after having repeatedly fallen, piteously complained that he was utterly unable to go farther. Being not two miles from the others it was thought best that he should attempt to rejoin them, and as he was much beloved, the parting was very distressing. They watched him for some time, and were comforted by seeing that, though bis progress was very slow, he kept his feet better than before. The whole party was now reduced to five persons. Captain Franklin, Adam, Peltier, Benoit, and Samandre, the interpreter Augustus having pressed forward by himself during the late frequent halts. They made that day only four miles und a half, and encamped for the night under a rock, supping again on the Lab- rador tea plant and some shreds of burnt leather. The evening was compara- tively mild, the breeze light, and having the comfort of a fire, they enjoyed some sleep. This was of infinite advantage ; it gave them new spirits, which were further invigorated by a breakfast of tripe de roche, this being the fourth day since they had a regular meal. On reaching Marten Lake they found it frozen over, — a circumstance which they knew would enable them to walk upon the ice straight to Fort Enterprise. It may be easily imagined what were the sensations of the party in approach* ing the spot which they trusted would be the end of all their toils and privations. From the arrangements previously made it was judged certain that tliey would here find relief, and be able to send assistance to their unfortunate companions. It was a spot where they had enjoyed, at a former period of the expedition, the greatest comfort; but it was possible, though they scarcely permitted themselves to contemplate so dreadful an idea, that circumstances mignt have occurred to defeat their present expectations. On approaching the hou&e their minds were strongly agitated between hope and fear, and contrary to their usual custom, they advanced in silence. At length they reached it, and their worst apprehen- sions were realized. It was completely desolate. No provisions had been de- posited; no trace of Indians could be discovered; no letter lay there from Mr. Wentzel to inform them where the Indians might be found. On entering, a mute despair seized the party. They gazed on the cold hearth, comfortless walls, and broken sashes, through which the wind and snow penetrated, and, awakening to a full sense of the horrors of their situation, burst into tears. On recovering a little, and looking round with more attention, a note was found from Mr. Back, stating that having two days befoire tbid reached the house, he 54* ** 638 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. had proceeded in search of the Indians ; but it described his party as so debili- tated that it was doubtful whether they would be able to roach Fort Providence. Tlie sufferings endured by this meritorious officer and his little party, one of whom was frozen to death, were equally dreadful with those which fell to the share of his excellent commander. The poor sufferers, thus grievously disappointed, now examined the deserted habitation for the means of subsistence, and found several deer-skins thrown away during their former residence ut the fort. The heaps of ashes were care- fully raked, and a considerable collection of bones discovered, which were hoard- ed up for the purpose of being pounded and manufactured into soup. The Sarchment originally employed instead of glass had been torn from tne win- ows, and the place was exposed to all the inclemency of an arctic winter ; but they succeeded in filling the sashes with loose boards, and as the temperature of the outer air was now from 15° to 20° below zero, this precaution was Especially necessary. To procure water they melted the frozen lumps of snow, and the flooring of the neighbouring apartment was broken up for fuel. Having completed these arrangements, they assembled round the fire, and were busy singmg the hair off a deer skin, when they were cheered by the en- trance of the interpreter, who had made his way to the fort by a different route, tlirough a country he had never traversed before. Though by far the strongest of the party, he was now so enfeebled by famine that he could not follow two deer which he had seen on his way. Next morning there was a heavy gale from the south-east, and the snow drifted so thick that no one ventured abroad. On the evening of the succeeding day, a figure covered with ice, benumbed with cold, and fdmost speechless, staggered into the house ; it was one of the Cana- dians, who had been despatched with a note by Mr. Back, and having fallen into a rapid narrowly escaped being drowned. To change his dress, wrap him in warm blanketa, and pour some soup over his throat, was their first care ; and after a little he revived enough to answer the anxious questions with which he was assaUed. From his repUes but little comfort was derived. Mr. Back had seen no trace of the Indians, and the messenger's recollection appeared confused with regard to the part of the country where he had left his officer, who, as he stated, intended to proceed to the spot where the Indian chief Akaitcho had en- camped last summer, — a distance of about thirty miles. Thither he proposed to follow when he was a little recruited; and, though dissuaded from the attempt, persisted that as the track was beaten he would be able to make it out, and to convey intelligence of the situation of Captain FrankUn's party. Accordingly, the fifth day after his arrival, he departed from the fort with a small supply of singed hide. Not long after, Adam, one of the five men who now remained with Captain Fraiddin, became so ill that he was utterly incapable of moving, and it was dis- covered Uiat he had been for some time afflicted with oedematous swellings in va- rious parts of his body, which he had hitherto generously concealed, from a wish not to impede the movements of his companions. As it was impossible for this poor man to travel, it was necessary to abandon the original intention of pro- ceeding with the whole party to Fort Providence, and Peltier and Samandre, who were in almost as weak a state, having expressed a wish to remain with Adam, Captain Franklin, along with Augustus and Benoit, determined to press on to Fort Providence, and to send relief to their companions by the first party of Indians tliey should meet. Having accordingly given directions regarding the journals and charts which were left in their custody, and the best mode of forwading succour to Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson, Franklin set forward with his two attendants; but so feeble had they become that the distance accomplished in six hours was only four miles. They encamped on the borders of Round Rock Lake, and, unable to find any tripe de roche, made tlieir supper on fried deer skin. The night proved intensely cold, and altiiough they crept as close to each other as possible, they shivered in every Umb, and the wind pierced tlirough tlieir famished frames. Next morn- ing was mild, and they set out early, but had scarce proceeded a few yards when FrankUu fell between two rocks and broke his snow shoes, an accident which SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 639 i.icapacitated him from keeping up with Benoit and Augustus. In a very short time his attempt to press forward completely exhausted him ; and as the only hope of preserving the Uves of the party appeared to rest on their speedily reach- ing Fort Providence, he determined, rather than retard them, to retrace his steps to the house, while they proceeded for assistance. Calling a moment's halt, he addressed one note to Mr. Back, requesting an immediate supply of meat from Reindeer Lake, and another to the commandant of Fort Providfence, with ur> gent entreaties for assistance. This done, Augustus and Benoit resumed their journey and Famklin returned to the house. On arriving he found Adam, Saniandre, and Peltier still alive ; but the two first, whose minds seemed quite enfeebled, could not be prevailed on to leave their bed, and their nervous weakness was so great that they scarcely ceased shedding tears all day. It was even with difhculty that they were prevailed on to take any nourishment; and the labour of cutting and carrying fuel, gathering the tripe de roche, and cooking fell entirely upon Franklin and Peltier. The frost was now so severe that it was evident this lichen would soon be bound up in ice, and as their strengtli daily declined every exertion became irksome. When once seated, it required a painful effort to rise up, and not unfrequently they had to lift each other from their chairs. This miserable condition could not last long. Peltier soon became almost incapable of holding the hatchet; the bone soup had become so acrid as to corrode the inside of their mouths; the tripe de roche, cov- ered with ice, defied all efforts to detach it from the rock; and though the reindeer sported on the banks of the river, no one had strength enough to go afler them, or to hold a gun so steadily as to secure an aim. Still the hopes and cheerfulness of Franklin did not desert him. From his knowledge of the places mostly frequented by the Indians, he was sanguine as to the likelihood of their being found ; and their speedy arrival formed a con- stant subject of conversation. At length, on the evening of the 29th, when talk- ing of this long looked for relief, and silting round the fire, Peltier suddenly leaped up and uttered a joyful exclamation, imagining he heard the bustle of the Indians in the adjoining room. It was not the Indians, however, but Dr. Rich- ardson and Hepburn, who came in each carrying his bundle. The meeting was one of mingled joy and sorrow. Poor Hood's absence was instantly perceived, and their saddest anticipations were confirmed by Dr. Richardson declaring that this young ofRcer and Michel were dead, and that neither Perrault nor Fontano had reached the tent or been heard of. Such news could not fail to create de- spondency. All were shocked at the emaciated countenances and hollow voices of Dr. Richardson and his companion, while Captain Franklin and his fellow- sufferers, having become gradually accustomed to the dreadful effects of famine upon each other, were not aware that, to the eyes of their friends who had just arrived, the alteration upon themselves was equally melancholy. " The doc- tor,', says Franklin, "particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of our voices, which he requested us to make more cheerful if possible, not aware that his own partook of the same key. The arrival of these friends, however, was soon attended with a favourable change. Though gready reduced, they were still in a better condition than their unfortunate companions, and it was not long till Hepbuin shot a partridge. Dr. Richardson speedily tore off the feathers, and having held it a few minutes at the fire divided it into six pieces : Franklin and his companions ravenously devour- ed their portions, " being the first morsel of flesh that any of them had tasted for thirty-one days," and Dr. Richardson cheered them with the prospect tljat Hep- bum might possibly bring in a deer in his next expedition. The counsels and example of this pious and intelligent man produced the best eflects on tlie spirits of the party. He had brought with him his Testament and Prayer Book; and by reading portions of Scripture appropriate to their situation, and encouraging them to join in prayer and thanksgiving, he led them to the only Source whence, under the awful circumstances in which they were placed, Uiey could derive hope or consolation. He taught them the necessity of exertion, whatever pain it might at first cost ; roused them to pay some attention to the cleanliness of their apartment, and insisted particularly that during the day they should roll up ■ST' 640 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. their blankets, whicli they had been in the practice of leaving beiiide the fire where they elept. Their Bcverul taskn were now allnted tn each ; Hepburn and Richardson went out in search of deer, while Franklin, being unable to walk far, remained nearer the house, and digged under the snow lor nkina, which, during their former hap- py winter residence at thin station, when they killed and ate abundance of game, were thrown away as useless, but now, in their almost putrid state, formed their principal support. The cutting of firewood wtis intrusted to Peltier and Sa- mandre ; but both were so weak and dispirited that it was geneially performed by Hepburn on his return from hunting ; as for Adam, his legs were still so se- verely swollen that he kept his bed, though an operation performed by Dr. Richardson gave him some ease. In the midst of these necessary cares, ail seemed for a while to dread approaching the subject of Hood and ami iMichel'a death ; but at length, one evening, on the return of the doctor from hunting, and after having despatched their usual supper of singed skin and bone-soup, they requested him to relate the pat ticulars ; and a more afilicting, or in some respects a. more terrific story, as it appears in his published narrative, could not well bo conceived. He stated, that after being left by Captain Franklin, they remained beside tlie fire as long as it lasted. Having no tripe de roche, they supped on an infusion of the country tea-plant, which was grateful Irom its wiirmth, but afibrded no nourishment, and retired to rest. Next day proved stormy, and the snow being so deep that a fire could not be kindled with the green willows, they lay in bed reading some religious books, with which the party had been furnished before leaving England, by the afi"ectionate and pious care of a lady. " They proved," says Richardson, " of incalculable value to us. We read portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and found that they inspired us on < h perusal with so strong a sense of the omni- preseuce of a beneficent God, til nur situation in these wilds appeared no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with calmness, but with cheerfulness, de- tailing with unrestrained confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope upon our future prospects." The weather clearing up. Dr. Richardson went out in search of tripe de roche, leaving Mr. Hood in bed and Hepburn cutting willows for a fire; but tlie rock? were covered with ice and snow, and he was unsuccessful. On his return he found Michel the Iroquois, who delivered the note from Frankhn. All were surprised to see him alone ; but he stated that Belanger had separated from him, and, as he supposed, lost his way, he himself having wandered far from the straight road. They had afterward good reason to suspect t!ie truth of tliis story, but believed it at that moment, and were njoiced to see him produce a hare and a partridge, — an unlooked-for supply, which they received with humble thankful- ness to the Giver of all good. Franklin's note advised them to advance to a little wood of pines, which would aflbrd better fuel ; and to this they removed under the guidance of Michel, who led them straig|it to the spot. As he had declared himself so little acquainted with the country as to lose his way, it seemed strange that he shoidd at once conduct them to the thicket. This roused their attention, and made them feel rather uneasy as to his honesty ; and various circumstances occurred to increase their suspicion. He requested the loan of a hatchet, when any otlier hunter would have taken only his knife. He remained abroad all day without any definite employment. He brought them some raw meat, saying that it was part of the carcass of a wolf; but which they had afterward reason to believe* was a portion of the bodies of Belanger and Perrault, whom they suspected him to have murdered. He shunned the society of Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, refusing to sleep in the tent, and preferring to lie alone at the fire. On going out with the purpose of remaining a whole day, he often returned abrupdy, and wh^n questioned gave vague answers. In a few days he began to regret that he had left Captain Franklin's party, re- fused to take any share in the labour of cutting wood, talked in a surly and inso- lent manner, and could scarcely be prevailed upon to go out and hunt at all. Tbesesymptomsof gloomy dissatisfaction increased; he resisted all entreaties. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 641 and when Mr. Hood, who was now reduced by famine to the last extremity, re- monntrated with him, he flew into a violent passion, and exclaimed, " It is of no use hunting, there are no animals ; you had better kill and eat me.'' He after* ward, however consented to go out, but returned upon some frivolous pretence ; and on the second day that dreadful catastrophe took place which will be best given in the words of Dr. Richardson's Journal. " In the morning," says he, " being Sunday, October 20th, we again urged Michel to go a-hiuiting, that he might, if pos.sible, leave us some provision, to- morrow being the day for his quitting us ; but he showed great unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the Are under the pretence of cleaning his gun. AAer we had read the morning service, I went about noon to gather some tripe de roche, leaving Mr Hood sitting before the tent at the fireside, arguing with Michel. Hepburn was employed in cutting down a tree at a small distance from the tent, being desirous of accumulating a quantity of firewood. A short time afler I went out I heard the report of a gun, and about ten minutes after- ward, Hepburn called to me in a voice of great alarm, to come directly. When I arrived I found poor Hood lying hfeless at the fireside, a ball having apparent- ly entered his forehead. I was at first horror-struck with the idea that in a fit of despondency he had hurried himself into the presence of his Almighty Judge by an act of his own hand ; but the conduct of Michel soon gave rise to other thoughts, and excited suspicions which were confirmed, when, upon examining the body, I found that the shot had entered the back part of the head and had passed out at the forehead, while tiie muzzle of the gun had been applied so close as to set fire to the nightcap !)ehind. The gun, which wa.s of the longest kind supplied to the Indians, could not have been placed in the po-^itiun to in- flict sucn a wound, except by a second person. Upon inquiring of Michel how it happened, he replied that Mr. Hood had sent him into the tent for the short gun, and that during his absence the long gun had gone off, he did not know whether b^ accident or not. He held the short gun in his hand at the time he was speakmg. Hepburn afterwards asserted, that previous to the report of the gun, Mr. Hc()(l and Michel were speaking to each other, in an elevated angry tone : he added, that Mr. Hood, being seated at the fireside, was hid from him by intervening willows ; but that on hearing the report he looked up, and saw Michel rising up from before the tent door, or just behind where Mr. Hood was seated, and tlien going into the tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharg- ed for the purpose of cleaning it, he did not go to the fire at first ; and when Mi- chel called to him that Mr. Hood was dead, a considerable time had elap.sed. * * *' Bickersteth's Scripture Help was lying open beside the body, as if it had fallen from his hand, and it is probable that he was reading it at tlie instant of his death." Such was the melancholy fate of Mr. Hood, a young officer of the highest promise, who by his conduct had endeared himself to every member of the expe- (Ution, and whose sutl'erings, as they were more intense fronj the peculiarity of his constitution, were borne with a placid and unpretending fortitude which it was impossible to contemplate without emotion. Both Dr. Richardson and Hepburn were convinced he had met his death fiom the hands of Michel ; but to have accused him at that moment would have been the extremity of rashness. They were so reduced by famine that he could easily have overpowered both. His appearance showed that he possessed secret supplies of food ; he was of great bodily strength, and was armed to the teeth, carrying, besides his gun, a brace of pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. To have hinted a suspicion, therefore, might have been instantly fatal, and they affected to consider the deatli of their companion entirely accidental. As his weakness had been the chief cause of delaying their journey, they now set out for the fort, having first paid the last rites to tlie dead in the only way which their situation would permit. The ground was so hard and their strength so exhausted, that to dig a grave was impossible ; so they carried the body into the willow grove behind the tent, and returning to the fire, read the funeral service in addition to their evening de- votions. i.<.^ .«;, 642 Sm JOHN FRANKLIN. In the morning, having singed the hfiir off a portion of Mr. Hood's biifV;i!o robe, they boiled and ate it for breakfust. Meanwhile, tlie conduct of Miclul was HO extraordinary, that had they not lujen already convinced of his guilt, no doubt of it could have remained. Though not a breath of their au-spicions reach- ed his ears, he repeatedly protested that he was incapable of cotnniitting sucli un act; he kept constantly on his guard; appeared fearful of leaving Dr. Ricli- ardson and ilepburnalone even for the shortest time : and when llepl)urn spoke he listened an.xionsly, though very imperfectly acquainted with the Knglisli lan- guage, fixed his eyes keenly upon him, and asked fiercely if he accused him of the murder. He evinced great unwillingness to set out for the fort, and wished Dr. Ilichardson to proceed to the Coppermine River, where he said the woods would supply plenty of deer. On finding this advice disregarded, his conduct became more and more alarming ; he nmttercd to himself, fell into sullen fits of abstraction, tiud used those convulsive and abrupt gestures otlen involuntarily exhibited by a person whose mind is full of some dreadful purpose. Suddenly awakening from this revery, he again expressed his unwillingness to return to the fort, and renewed his solicitations to Dr. Richardson to repair to the Bouthern woods, where they would find ample subsistence. On being requested to pursue his own plan alone, and leave them to continue their journey, he broke into an ungovernable fury, accused Hepburn of having told stories against him, nnd assumed such airs of superiority as showed that he knew they were both in h 3 power, at the same time giving vent to expressions of hatred against the white people, calling them deadly enemies, and atiirming they had killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. DR. RICHARDSON SHOOTING MICHEL. None of these menaces were lost upon Richardson and Hepbnm; both felt they were not safe in this man's company ; and these dreadful surmises rose into certainty when he threw out hints that he would free himself from all restraint on the morrow. Being now convinced that, as he had cruelly murdered Hood, he was resolved also to sacrifice them, they ascribed his not having already done 80 to tlie circumstance of his not knowing the way to the fort, and requiring their guidance. They came to this conclusion without any communication with each Dtlier; for their fierce companion would not leave them a moment, watching them witli a malignant look, and frequently muttering threats against Plepbum. Towards evening, as they approached the spot where it would be necessary to SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 643 Stop for the night, Michel halted to gather tripe de roche, and to their surprise bode them walk on, and he would soon overtake them. Hepburn anci Dr. llicharddon, now lel\ alone together for the iinit time nince Mr. Hood'« death, rapidly opened their minds to each other. In addition to the factn already men- tioned, otherH came to light which left not tlie slightest doubt an to Michel's guilt; and so convinced was Hepburn of there being no safety lor them but in his death, that, though a man ot extreme benevolence and deep religious principle, he ofTered to be the instrument of it himself. " Had my own life," says Dr. Richardson, " alone been threatened, I would not have purchased it by such a measure ; but I considered myself also as intrusted with that of Hepburn's, a man who, i)v his humane attentions and devotedness bad so endeared himself to me. that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own." Animated by such feelings, and convinced that Michel's death was necessary to self-preservation, he determined tliat it ought to be by his own, and not by Hepburn's hand ; and on his coming up, shot him through the head with a pistol. It appeared that he had gathered no tripe de roche, and had halted to put hit* gim in order, no doubt with the intention of attacking them when in the act of encamping. Dr. kichard^ion and Hepburn now pursued their way to the fort; but fatigue, and want of food and fuel, had nearly proved fatal to them. They remarked, however, that repeatedly when dtath appeared inevitable, an unexpected supply of -provisions again restored them ; and the confidence tliat, when no human help was nigh, they were supported by a merciful God, inspired them witli renewed hope. At last they had tiie delight of beholding from an eminence the smoke issuing from the chimney of the fort, and inunediately after embracing those friends for whose fate tliey had entertained so many melancholy forebodings. So ended this interesting narrative. The whole parly was now once more united, but under circumstances of the most distressing privation ; all emaciated to such a degree as to look like living skelelouri ; their hands shook from weakness, so that to take an aim was impos- sible ; and the rein-deer, partridges, and other game ilew or bounded past in joyousness and security, while the unhappy beings who beheld tliem were gaunt with hunger. The winter was closing iu with «11 its horrors ; it became daily more dithcult to procure fuel, the labour of cutting and carrying Uie logs being so grievous that only Dr. Richardson and Hepburn could undoitake it; and to scrape the ground for bones, and to cook tliis miserable meal, was all Captain Franklin could accomplish. On the 1st of November the doctor obtained some tripe de roche ; and as Peltier and Samandre were iu the last stage of exhauslion, it was hoped a little of the soup might revive them. All was in vain ; they tast- ed a few spoonfuls, but soon complained of a soreness in their throats, and both died in the course of the night, apparently without pain. To inter the bodies, or even carry them to the river, was a task for which the united strength of the survivors was inadequate ; all they could do was to remove them into an opposite part of the house; and the living and the dead remained in awful contigLMty under tlie same roof The party was now reduced to four, — Franklin, Richardson, Hepburn, imd Adam. Tlie last had become dreadfully low since the death of his companions, and could not bear to be left alone for a moment. Their stock of bones was exhausted, and in a short time it was evident that *he severity of the frost would render the gatlieriug of the tripe de roche impossible. Under thiese circumstan- ces, with death by famine approaching every hour, this little band of pious and brave men were supported by an unwavering reliance on the tnercy of God. " We read prayers," says Captain Franklin,. *' and a portion of the New Testa- ment in the morning and evening, as had been our practice since Dr. Richard- son's arrival ; and I may remark, tliat the performance of these duties always afforded us the greatest consolation, serving to reanimate our hope in the mercy of the Omnipotent, who alone could save and deliver us." It seemed as if "t were the mysterious design of the Almighty to permit them to be reduced to tlia lowest depth of suffering, tliat his power might be magnified at the very moment when every human effort appeared utterly impotent. Hitherto Dr. Richardson H 644 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. and Hepburn had been the healthiest of the party, but they had overwrought themselves and had sunk rapidly. Owing to their loss of flesh, the hard- ness of the floor, from which they were only protected by a single blanket, rendered the whole surface of their bodies sore ; yet the labour of turning from one side to the other, was too much for them. As their strength sank, their mental faculties partook of the weakness of their frame ; and, to employ the can- did and simple expressions of the excellent leader, " an unreasonable pettishness with each other began to manifest itself, each believing the other weaker in Intel lect than himself, and more in need of advice and assistance." During this gloomy period, after the first acute pains of hunger (which lasted but for three or four days) had subsided, they generally enjoyed the refreshment of sleep, accom- panied by dreams which, for the most part, partook of a pleaisant character, and very often related to the pleasures of feasting. Help, however, was now near at hand, and we shall not impair the aft*ecting description of their deliverance by giving it in any other than Captain Franklin's own words. " On November the 7th, Adani had passed a restless night, being disquieted by gloomy apprehensions of approaching death, which they tried in vain to dispel. He was so low in the morning as scarcely to be able to speak, and Captain Franklin remained by his bedside to cheer him as much a-s possible, while the doctor and Hepburn went out to cut wood. They had hardly begun their labour when they were amazed at hearing the report of a musket, and could scarcely believe thon's Bay Comjiany ; who transmitted injunctions to their officers in the fur countries to provide depots of provisions at Uie stations pointed out by Franklin. The budding of proper boifs for die navigation of the Arctic Sea, as well as the passage of die rapids between York Factory and Mackenzie River, formed the next object of attention. It was evident diat die canoes of birch bark em- ployed by Sir A. Mackenzie, and by Captain Franklin in his first journey, though excellendy adapted for the American rivers, uniting lightness end facili.y of repair with speed, were yet, from the tenderness of the bark, litde fitted to re- sist the force of die arctic waves, or the collision of the sharp-pointed masses of ice. Captain Franklin accordingly 'obtained the Admiralty's jjermission to have three boats constructed at Woolwich, under his own superinlciidence. '• They were built," says he, "of mahogany, wiUi timbers of ash, bodi ends exacdy alike, and fitted to be steered either widi a ship-oar or a rudder. The largest, being twenty-six feet long and five feet four inches broad, was adapted for six rower.s, a steersman, and an officer; it was found to be capable ot carrying three tons weight in achiition to the crew, and could be transportt'd with ease on the shoul- ders of six men. The odier two boats were twenty -four (eet in length, (bur Icet ten inches broad, and held a crew of five men, l)csides a sttMrsman and an officer, with an 'jxtra weight of two and a half ton.-i. In addition to these, anodier 'ittle vesst. was constructed, at Woolwich, which redected great « fi-dit upon its in- ventor, Lieutenant-colonel Pasley, of the Royal Fnginecrs. its shape wa« ei- acdy that of one ol' die valves of a walnut-shell, and it was framed of well season- ed planks of aah, fastened togcUier with thougs, and covered with Mackiutosii'f 55 - 646 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. prepared canvass. It weighed only eighty-five pounds, and when taken to pieces could be made up in five or nix parcels, and again put together in less than twenty minutes, although it was nine feet long by four feet four inches in breadth." Each person on board was provided' with two .suits of water-proof dresses, prepared by Mr. Mackintosh, of (Jiasgow ; the guns, whir!. w«re of the same bore as the fovvling-pieccH furnislied by tlie Hiid.«on's Bay Company to the Indian hunters, I. ad their locks tempered to resist the cold ; each luing fitted with a broad Indian dagger, similar to a bayonet, which, on being disjoined. could be used as a knife. Ammunition of the in-st (juality, and a store of provi- sions sulficient for two year.s, were also sn])|)lic(l. The expedition sailed from Liverpool on the Kith of February, iSi'i, and after a favourable pas.sage to New- York, proceeded to Albany, travelled through Utica, Rochester, and Geneva, crossed the Miajrcira and Lake Ontario, coasted the northern shore of Lake Superior, and thence pushed forwavfl through ilainy Lake, the Lake oftne Woods, Lake Winnipeg, Saskatcliawan iliver, and arrived at Cumberland House on the Ifitli of June. From this station, proceeding northward to Isle a laCros.se, and passing through Deep River. ;tm\ Clear and Buit'ulo Lakes, they overtook their lioatsin Methye River, on the morning of the 29th of June. The advanced period of the .season rendered it impos-ihlt! t(» em- bark on the Mackenzie before the middle of August, so that it became necessary to po.stpone the great expedition till the en.suiiig sutiimer. They accordingly established their winter quarters on the banks, erecting a habitation and a store. which they named Fort Franklin. The ."superintendence of lliese huildiiiirs was committed to Lieutenant Back, while Captain Franklin determined to descend the river, take a view of the Polar Sea, and return to winter quarters before the extreme coldshouhl set in. In this voyage there occurred nothing worthy of particular notice till the arri- val at Whale Island, where, though Mackenzie had the strongest reasons to conclude that he had reached the sea, he appears not to have been completely satisfied on that point. Probably his d. 650 SIR JOHIf FRANK L.1N, the same kindness that they bestow upon the Indians. Do not deceive your- selves, and suppose that they are afraid of you ; I tell you they are not, and that it is entirely owing to their humanity th.it many of you were not killed to-day, for they have all guns with which they can destroy you either near or at a dis- tance. I also have a gun, and can assure you that if a white man had fallen, I would have been the first to have revenged his death." During this speech, which was delivered, as they perceived from the boat?, with much energy and spirited gesticulation, the Esquimaux expressed their ap- probation by frequent shouts, and ou its conclusion made <■' very penitent, though somewhat singular apology : " They had never seen white men before," they said, "and really all the things in the boat were so beautiful and desirable that it was impossible not to steal them. As they were very anxious, however, for the friendship and trade of the white men, they solemnly promised never to repeat such conduct, and at the request of Angnstus, sent back the large kettle, the tent, and some pairs of shoes which they had carried off. The interj)reter was afterward invited to a dance, and a friendly understanding seemed to be es- tablished; but Captain Franklin soon discovered that the professions of the na- tives were hollow and treacherous; and nothing but his jealous precautions saved him and his companions from massacre, in which it had been resolved to include the faithful Augustus. Their voyage along the coast in the direction of wf st-north-west, after a pro- gress of twelve miles, was impeded by the ice stretching from the shore far to seaward. The boats were in consequence hauled up ; aud as the frozen masses were piled round to the height of thirty feet, it beoaine necessary to await the breaking up of this formidable barrier. Having gone to sleep, the othcers were startled at midnight by the guard calling to arms : three Esquimaux, belonging to a large party encamped at some distance, had stolen forward, and been only discovered when close at hand. Alarmed at the appearance of the men, who stood to their arms, the strangers were on the point of discharging their arrows, when they were arrested by the loud voice of Augustus, who explained the ob- ject of the expedition, and dilated upon the advantages which they would derive from it. A present confirmed his statement, and an amicable intercourse was opened, — a line, however, being first drawn at a certain distance from the tents, across which no Esquimaux was to pass under the penalty of being instantly shot. Against this they made no remonstrance, only remarking, when informed of the treacherous conduct of the natives at the mouth of Mackenzie River, that "these were bad men, altogether difterent from them, and never failed either to steal or quarrel whenever an opportunity was offered." The delight exhibited by these people, including the most elderly among them, on receiving any little present, was exactly similar to that of children when they get hold of toys. They ran from one thing to another; examined with restless curiosity every part of Augustus's dress, who, to gratify his vanity, had put on his gayest apparel; and, ignorant of the uses of the articles presented to them, they walked about with cod fish hooks and awls dangling from the nose, and copper thimbles strung to their trowsers or reindeer jackets. The men were robust, and taller than those seen on the east coast by Captain Parry, though their manner of life appeared to be nearly the same. With the broad nose and small eyes, which peculiarly dis- tinguish the whole Esquimaux tribes, they had the cheek bones less projecting than those of the eastern coast. From a constant exposure to the glare of the ice and snow, the whole party were afflicted with sore eyes, and two of the old men seemed nearly blind. They wore the hair on the upper lip and chin, and every man had pieces of bone or shells thrust through the septum of the nose, while holes were pierced on each side of the under lip, in which were j)laced circular pieces of ivory with a large blue bead in the centre, — ornaments which they valued highly, and declined selling. Their clothes consisted of a jacket of reindeer hkin, with a skirt behind and before, and a small hood ; breeches of the same material, and large seal skin boots. The dress of the females difiered from that of the men only in their wearing wide trousers, and in the size of their hoods, which did not fit close to their heads, but were made large for the purpose of receiving tlieir children: tlieue were ornamented with stripes of ditl'ereot co- SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 651 ill) those eared to iirly dis- ojectiiig of the the old in, and le nose, placed Its which a jacket eches of differed of thei' purpose Brent co- loured skins, and round the top was fastened a band of wolf's hair, made to stand erect. The women were from four feet and a half to four feet three-qiiarter» high, and some of the younger, though too corpident, were pretty; their black hair was tastefully turned up from behind to the top of the head, and braided with strings of white and blue beads and cords of white deer skin. Both men and women were much pleased by having their portraits sketched by Captain Back ; and one young lady, who sat for a full length, and chose the extraordina- ry attitude of stutfing both hands into her breeches pockets, interru|)ted the la- bours of the draughtsman by repeatedly jumping into the air, and smiling in a very ludicrous and irresistible manner. The men were armed with bows and arrows, long knives, which they concealed in the shirt sleeve, and spears tipped with bone. The Esquimaux hud predicted that as soon as a strong wind began to blow from the laud it would loosen the ice ; and on the 12th of July a heavy rain with a pretty high gale set in and opened a passage. The boats accordingly were launched ; and, passing by a wide bay named by the commander alter his friends Captains riabiiie and Kay, they were suddenly arrested by a compact body of ice, and enveloped at the same time in a dense fog. On attempting to puli back for the purpose of landing, they discovered that the ice had closed between them and the shore. In this situation only one alternative was left, which was to pull to seaward and trace the outer border of the ice. This they at last etfect- ed; though a sudden change of wind brought on a heavy swell, and surrounded them with floating masses of ice, which threatened to crush the boats to pieces. They succeeded, however, after five hours employed in sailing in and out be- tween these floating icebergs, in reaching the shore and landing a little to the west of Point Sabine. After a detention of two days they proceeded as far a» Point Kay; but being here again impeded by a compact body of ice, which ex- tended to seaward as far as the eye could reach, they were obliged to encamp and wait patiently for the first strong breeze from the land. The time of their sojourn in these arctic solitudes was pleasantly occupied in making astronomical observations, collecting specimens of the plants in flower, sketching scenery, and completing charts of the coast. Augustus went in search of his countrymen, and returned at night with a young Esquimaux and his wife, who, after a few presents, became loquacious, and informed them that the ice would soon break up. Symptoms of this desirable change were observed next day, and with great labour they reached Herschel Island. At the moment they made the shore a herd of reindeer came bounding down to the beach, pursued by three Esquimaux hunters, and immediately took the water, while the natives, startled at sight of the strangers, ga'/.ed for a moment, consulted among them- selves, changed the heads of their arrows, and prepared their bows. Their hos- tile intentions, however, were laid aside when they were addressed by Augus- tus ; and in the evening a large party arrived, bringing dried meat, fish, and game, for which they received presents in exchange, which set them singing and dancing round the encampment for the greater part of the night. From these people was collected some curious information. They stated that they procured beads, knives, and iron, principally from Esquimaux residing far away to the west, and also from It\dians who came annually from the interior by a river directly opposite the encampment, to which Captain Franklin gave the name of MounUain Indian River. Whence the Indians or the Esquimaux ob- tained these goods they could not tell, but supposed it was from Kabloonacht or white men, at a great distance to the west. The articles were not of British maimfacliire, from which Captain Franklin concluded that the Kabloonacht must be the Russian fur-traders. It was with great difliculty that the boats made even a short distance from Herschel Island. The ice repeatedly closed in upon then: leaving only a nar- row channel, often too shallow to float the boats, and djnse fogs now became frequent, rendering their navigation peculiarly hazardous. These dreary cur- tains hanging over the ice gave it the appearance of water, and exposed them to the danger of being shut in by an impenetrable barrier when they exp»-Cied an open sea. They continued their course, however, till they came ubreust of 653 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. Mount Conybnare, when they encamped, and crossing a swampy level ascend' ed to t!i(; siiin.riit, from which they enjoyed a striking view into the interior. Thrct! nohle range-t o("inonnlain-< were seen parallel to the Biickland chain, but of less altitiiile, while the prospect was bounded by a fourth range, mingling tiMiir pyrainidil summits with the clouds, and covered with snow. From this last cucumptiient their advance was extremely slow. The boats were pushed forward tliroiiirh smill lanes, the utmost vigilance being necessary to prevent their buiug entirely shut in, as a few hours otlen made essential changes, and their frail craft could only be saved by being frequently hauled upon the beach. The calm weather also retarded them, and they earnestly longed for a strong gale to break up the compacted fields of ice, anil permit them to continue their voyage. After a detention of some days their wishes seemed about to be gratified ; at midnight, on the 2.jth of July, a'strong south-westerly breeze sprang up, accom- panied by thunder and lightning; but in the morning an impenetrable fog hung over the sea. On the land side the prospect was equally dreary ; an extensive swamp, in which they sank ankle deep at every step, prevented any excursions into the interior, and the clouds of mosquitoes which forever buzzed around them kept them in a perpetual irritation. At length, however, the fog dispersed, dis- closing an open lane of water about Haifa mile from shore; following its course for eiglit miles they came to the inout!i of a wide river, which had its rise in the British range of mountains. Its course approached near the line of demarca- tion between the American dominions of Great Britain and Ru3.sia, and Captain Franklin named it Clarence River, after the Uuke of Clarence, then lord high admiral, and subsequently King William IV. On the most elevated part of the coast near its mouth they erected a pile of drift wood, under which they depos- ited a tin box containing, a royal silver medal, and an account of the proceedings of the expedition; after which tl»e union flag was hoisted with three hearty cheers. I'hey now continued their voyage, though often beset by ice and interrupted by togs, and, passing the boundary between Russian and British America, de- scried an encampment of natives on a low island, surrounded by many oomiaks and kayaks guarded by Esquimatix dogs, while their masters were last asleep in the tents. The interpreter being despatched to arouse tliem, a singular scene took place. At his lirst call a little squabby woman rushed out in a state of per- fect nudity, uttered a loud yell, and instantly ran back again to rouse her hus- band, wlio, shouting out that strangers were at hand, awoke the whole band. In a moment all seized their arms, and, without waitiu'j to put on their deer skin breeches or jackets, swarmed out upon the beach, which in an instant was covered with fifty-four grown up persons completely naked, very outrageous, dirtv, and ugly. A short parley quieted their fears, an interchange of presents took place, and the boats crossed Camden Bay. having in view the noble range of the Romanzoff Mountains, whose peaks wore covered with snow. Soon after they arrived at the mouth of a river which discharged into the sea so great a volume of water that even three miles from land the taste was perfect- ly fresh ; and having reached latitude 70° 7', liuther progress was prevented by i3e closely packed on the outer border of a reef, and they dis>. ,;vered that the great chain of the Rocky Mountains either terminated abreast of their present situation, or receded so far to the southward as to fade away in the distance. During their detention. Captain Back, to whose pencil we are indebted for many adiniral)le drawings of arctic scenery, made a sketch of the most western moun- tain, whicli they named Mount Copleston. Various circumstances now warned them that much further progress along this inhospitable coast was impracticable. The logs ' lime more frequent and perilous, the water was often so shallow that even i niles from shore the boats grounded, and on getting into deeper soundings, tl. peated shocks received from nmsses of floating ice severely in- jured their tinilit IS, especially those of the Lion, which was very leaky. Still they struggled on from Flaxman Island along a low, desolate shore, rendered more dreary by the stormy weather, till on the 10th a gale brought along with it a thick fog, and they hauled up the boats, encamping on a low spot which they SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 653 named Foggy Island. Here they kindled fires, dried their clothes, which were completely wet with the moisture jf the atmosphere, and amused themselves in their murky prison by proceeding in search of reindeer. The fog caused fre- quent and sometimes ludicrou.^ mistakes ; and on one occasion, alter the men had spent a long time in stealing upon some deer, and were congratulating them- selves on coining within shot, to their amuzemcnt the animals took wing and disappeared in the fog, with a scream and a cackle which at once declared their genus, and seemed to deride the credulity of their pursuers. "We witnessed with regret," says Captain Franklin, " in these short rnmhles, the havoc which this dreary weather made among the flowers. Many which had been blooming upon our arrival were now lying prostrate and witheied, and these symptoms of decay could not fail painfully to remind us that the end of our operations was fast approaching. Oflen at this time did every one express a wi.sli that we had some decked vessel, in which the provisions could be secured from the injury of salt-water, and the crew sheltered when they required rest, that we might quit this shallow coast and steer at once towards Icy Cape." So frequently did they attempt to fulfil this desire, and so perpetually were they driven back by the fog closing upon them, that the sailors declared the island was enchanted. Indeed, to a superstitious mind the appearances furnished some ground for believing it. The fog would oflen disperse, and permit a short glimpse of a point about three miles distant, bearing north-west by west; and in a moment every hand was at work, the boats were launched, the crews embarked; but before they could be dragged into deep water the spirit of the mist once more drew his impenetrable curtain round them, and after resting a while on their oars, they were compelled io pull back to their old quarters. Scarcely had they kindled a fire and begun to dry their clothes, soaked with wading over the flats, when the fog again open- ed, the boats were launched, and the desired point almost gained; but their tor- mentor once more enveloped earth and oceun in a thicker gloom than before. "Fog is, of all others," says Captain Frankhn, "the most hazardous state of the atmosphere for navigation in an icy sea, especially where it is accompanied by strong breezes; but particularly so for boats where the shore is unapproachable. If caught by a gale, a heavy swell, or drifting ice, the result must be their wreck, or the throwing their provisions overboard to lighten them, so as to proceed in shoal water. Many large pieces of ice were seen on the border of the shallow water, and from the lowness of the temperature we concluded that the main body was at no great distance." The nights were now lengthening; the grasses and the whole aspect of the vegetation was autumnal ; ttieir stores of drift wood had been so nmch drawn upon that, though the tents were wet through, and they were for warmth obliged to wrap tlieir feet in blankets, no fire was allowed except to cook the victuals. The provisions were barely sutticient for the support of the jjarty on their re- turn, while the frequency of the fogs, the shallowness which prevented the boats from floating, the heavy swell that, as the wind freshened, rose upon the flats, compelled tliem to haul farther from the land, and the danger which in doing so they necessarily incurred from drift ice, formed an accumulation of difticullies which rendered their progress from Point Aii-vilBty across Pudhoe Bay to Return Reef the most discouraging and painful part of the whole voyage. It was now the 19th of August, and the boats, though the exertions of the crew had been un- wearied, were only halfway between the mouth of Mackenzie's River and Icy Cape. The young ice had already begun to form at night on the pools of fresh water, and the mind of the commander recurred naturally and wisely to liis for- mer experience. He recollected that only one day later, and in a latitude two degrees southerly, he had in his first voyage encountered severe storms of wind and snow, and that in a fortnight the winter would set in with all its horrors. Already the sun began to sink below the horizon, and with this change the mean temperature of the atmosphere rapidly decreased; the deer were hastening from the coast; the Esquimaux had ceased to appear; no winter houses gave indica- tions that this remote coast was inhabited; and the autumnal parties of geese hourly winging their flight to the westward, indicated that winter had already surprised theui in their polar solitudes. It had been Franklin's great object to C5i SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. double Icy Cape, and meet tlie expedition under Captain Beechey in Kot/,ebue'» Inlet, but fVnin tlie distance and the advanced season this was now impracticable. On the otlier hand, his instructions directed him, ' if, in conseq\ience of slow progress, or other unloreseen accident, it should remain doubtful whether the ex- j)edition .should be able to reach Kotzebiie's Inlet the same seanon, to commence their return on the I'Uh or 2ihh of Auijust." To relinquish the Jireat object of his anibitioti; itnd to disappoint the confidence reposed in h\s exertions, was a siicrifice uhicli cost him no ordinary |)ain; and had he been aware of the fact, (with whicli the reader will be immediately ac(iuainted,) that the barge of ihe IJlossom was at that moment only 141) miles distant, we have his own authority for stating that no dilficulties or dangers would have prevailed on him to return; but. under the circum.itances in wliich he was placed, to nialte any further etibri in advance was incompatible with the higher duties which he owed to his officers and crew. After a. mature consideration of every thinjj, he foimed the reluctant conclusion that they had reached the point where perseverance would have been rashness, and their best eH'orts must have only leci to a more calamitous failure. It was resolved therefore to return; and on the morniui; of the 18th of August they betfan their retreat to the .'Mackenzie River, which, without any material danger, with the exception of !i severe gale encountered oti" Point Kay, they reached on the 4th of September. Thence they proceeded to Kort Franklin, where they met Dr. Richardson, Mr. Kendall, and their friends of the eastern expedition, who, after a j)rosperous and interesting voyage to the mouth of the Coppermine, had returned to the Fort on the 1st of .September. Of this interesting journey our liujits will only permit a very cursory glance. Fortunately for the eastern exjjedition, the coast between the mouths of Macken- zie and Coppermine Rivers presented none of those serious obstacles which at every step were starting up in the dreary and protracted route of the western party; and they consequently accomj)lished a voyage of about 500 miles, be- tween the 4lh of July and the 8th of Augu.st. It was eminently successful in the accurate survey of this hitherto unexplored coast, but unvaried by any remark- able incidents. The Es(]uimaux, on various parLs of the coast, were more nu- merous, pacific^ comfortable, and wealthy than the western tribes; but their civ- ilization had not eradicated the propensity lor thieving. On one occasion the boats were surrounded by a fleet of about fifty kayaks, and an attack was made exactly similar to that upon Franklin; but though their object was the same, it was pursued with less vigoui, and ihe moment the sailors levelled their muskets the whole party dispersed with precipitation. On arriving at Atkinson Island they discovered, under shelter of a chain of sand hills drilled by the wind to the height of thirty feet, a small F,squimaux town, consisiing of seventeen winter bouses, besides a larger building, which Dr. llichardson it tirst conjectured to be a house of assembly for ihe tribe. Oolig- buck the iute.preter, however, wlio:e ideas were more gross and commonplace, pronounced it 'o be a general eating room. "This large building," says Dr. Richardson, " was in the interior a square of twenty-seven feet, having the roof supported on two strong riilge poles two feet apart, and resting on four upright posts. The floor in the centre liBfnied of split logs, dressed and laid with great care, was smrounded by a raisetl border about three feet wide, which was no doubt meant lor seats. The walls, tluee feet high, were inclined outwards, for the convenience of leaning the back against them, and the ascent to the door, which was on the south side, was formed of logs. The outside, which was cov- ered with earth, had nearly a hemispherical form, and round its base were rang- ed the sculls of twenty-one whales. There was a square hole in the roof, and the central log of the floor had a basin shaped-cavity one foot in diameter, which was perhaps intended for a lamp. The general attention to comfort in the construction of the village, and the erection of a building of such magnitude, requiring a union of purpose in a considerable number of people, were eviden- ces of a more advanced progress towards civilization than had yet been found among the E.squiinaux. Whale sculls were confined to the large building, and to one of tlie dwelling houses, which had three or four placed round it. Many ;^*.- ^' SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 655 wooden trays and handharrows for carrying whale blubber were lying on the ground, most of them in a state oftleray." On making the traverse of Harrowby Bay, land was oopn round the bottom ; and on nearing the shore twelve tents were distinguished on iin adjoining emi- nence. When the boats appeared, a woman, who was wiilUiii<; aloiiff the beach, gave the alarm, and the men rushed out, brandishiri;; their knives, and emiduy- ing the mostfuriou-s expressions. In vain Oolii^buck eJidfa^omcd to calm their apprehensions, explaining that the slramiers were friends; they only replied by shouts, leap.s, or hideous grimaces, intended to inspire terror, and displayed great agility, freipiently standini? on one foot and throwin'j the other nearly as high as their head. Dr. Richardson, nothiuir intimidated by these geslicul.itions, lie- thought himself of enoimcinj;, at the hiirhest hey he could reach, the word " Noo- woeriawgo," meaning "I wish to barter," and the sound operated hhe a spell. The savages instantly liecame (piiet; one of them ran to his kayaU. paddled off to the boats, and was followed by crowds, who fearlessly came alongside, readi- ly exchanging bows, arrows, spears, and dressed seal skins, for bits of old iron hoop, fdes and beads. "The females," says Dr. Richardson, 'unlike those of other Indian tribes, had much handsomer features than the men; and one young woman of the party would have been deemed pretty even in Kiuope. Our presents seemed to render them perfectly happy, and they danced with such ec- stacy in their slender boats as to incur more than once great hazard of being overset. A bimdie of strings of beads being thrown into an oomiak, it was caught by an old woman, who hugged the treasure to her breast with the strong- est expression of rapture; while another elderly dame, who had stretched out her arms in vain, became the very picture of despair. On its being explained, however, that the present was intended for the whole party, an amicable division took place ; and to show their gratitude, they sang a soug to a pleasing air. keep- ing time with their oars. They gave ns many presssng inviuitions to pass the night iit their tents, in which they were joined by the men; and to excite our liberality the moUiers drew their children out of their wide boots, where they were accustomed to carry them naked, and holding them up begged beads for them. For a time their entreaties were successful; but being de.sirous of getting clear of our visitors heCoie breakfast time, we at length told them the stock was- exhausted, and they took leave." "The voyjige, owing to the clear atmosphere, the nnencnmbered state of the coast, and the abundant supply of provisions, was pursued with ease and com- fort; and on the 8th of August, havinj; made a hold cape, rising precipitously from the sea to the height of ;550 feet, l)r. Richardson an poles, forty deer iido% two kayaks, many hundred weight of fish, numerous skins of od, earthem jars for cooking, two living foxes, ten large dogt, bundles of lanees, harpoons, bows and arrows, a qnanti^ of whalebone, suns fuU of dottnng, SOBM mnnanan nets made of hide for takmg small whale and porpoises, Mght bvcad planks, masts, sails, paddles, &c., besides sea horse hides ana teeth, aad aTariety of namelesB articles ahrays to be found among die Esquimaux." In the mean time, Mr. Elson in the barge proceeded along the shore for sev- ooty nules, to a promontory, denominated by Beechcy Cape Banow, which was afterwards discovered to be onfy distant 14o mUes fifom the extreme pomt of FtanUin's discoveries. Upon this new line of coast posts were erectM at va- rievadiitBnces, widi directions for Captain Franklin, snould hn succeed in push- ins so flar to the westward. A frequent communication was opened with the imabitants, who were fiiund to resemble the other Esquimaux, with the un- pleasant dUfference that their manners were more rude ami boisterous, and their eondnot in some instances decidedly hostile. Point Barrow, the most northerly part of America yet discovered, formed the termination to a spit of land jnttini; oat several miles from the more regular coast line. The width of the neck did not exceed a mile and a half; on die extremity were several small lakes, and on ili eastern side a village. The danger of being shut in by the ice war now great, and Mr. Ebon determined to kind, obtain the necessary observations, erect a post, and deposit instructions for Franldin. This plan, however, was frustrated by the vioMnt conduct of the natives, who assemUed in formidUble numbers, and threatened to attack the crew of the ba tablishment in which the party might pass the winter of lo^^tad whence they misht extend their survey in the summer of 1838. Messrs. Dease and Simpson, with the remainder of the party