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Les diagrammes suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 4 5 6 J 2otll CONGJRESS, "* 2d Session. (^ ■'S mm mmm [ SENATE. ] ^^ if * jf Cf^* w [84] MEMORIAL X)P WILLIAM A SLACUM, PR*YINrt f^ampensatioii for his services in obtaining information in rdation to ike settlements on the Oregon river. Dkcember 18, 1837. Referred t(.i the Committee on Foreign Relations, anil ordered to be printed. To the Senate and Honsn of Representatives of the United Stales of America in (Jonfrress assembled : The memorial of William A. Slacitm Rkspeotfully represents: * That he is a purser in the navy of tlie United States ; tiiat on the 12th of November, 1835, he received' the communication (marked A) which accompanies this memorial, from the Secretary of State, by the . direction of the President of the United States, charging him with the performance of a certain " comjnission" therein specified, to wit: " to obtain some spe- cific and authentic information in regard to the inhabitants of the country in the neighborhood of the Oregon, or Columbia river; and, generally, endeavor to obtain all such information, political, physical, .statistical, nnd geographical, as may prove useful or interesting to this Government." That, on the 1st of June, 1836, youi memorialist commenced to perforin this commission. He kfl Guaymas, which is situated. near the head of the Gulf of California, on that day, and proceeded to Petic. He arrived there on the 4th of the same month, and purchased m\iles, provisions, &,c , for his journey to the Columbia river. These preparations being made, he was informed, by the best authority, that the land route to the Columbia was, at that season of the year, impracticable. (See letter No. 1.) Accord- ingly, he was compelled to abandon that attempt, and he returned to Guay- mas, in the hope of being able to procure a vessel, by which to efiect his object. There, so anxious was your memorialist to fulfil the trust confided to him, he chartered the only vessel he could procure, being a small boat of 12 tons burden, (and which had formerly been the long-boat of the ship James Monroe, of New York,) and in her he set sail for the Columbia riter, on the 7th of July, 1836. (See letter No. 2.), After havigating about 400 miles in this frail boat, havmg been out in her 19 days, and been well-nigh lost, your memorial ist was forced to put in^ Mazatlan in distress, and there B)aiv " ^'ves, prinrcrs. I --^4] 3 abandon her. (See letter Ko. 3.) At the latter place your momorialisf heard that a vessel was lying at La-Paz, Lower California, that was soon to sail for the Sandwich islands. This being now the only hope left of ac- complishing his mission that year, your memorialist determined to proceed t(^ the Sandwich islands in her, and' there procure, if possible, a vessel to go into the Columbia. Accordingly, he sailed from La-Paz on the 10th October, (see letter No. 4,) and reached the Sandwich islands the 5th of November following. There he chartered the American brig Loriot, and set'Sail for the Columbia on the 24th of the same month. (See letter No. 5.) He Krrived in the (Columbia river on the 22d of December, 1836. Your memorialist here begs leave to refer your honorable body to his memoir, which accompanies this memorial, (marked B,) and which con- tains a full and true account of all that transpired during his presence in the Cohimbia river and its tributaries. It, together with the maps and charts which are herewith presented, and which make a part of the said memoir, comprises the result of your memorialist's laborious and perilous mission. Having made this narrative of his operations, your memorialist beg? leave to submit the following considerations to your notice : 1st. This imdertaking was not in the tenor of his official duties. Me was charged with its performance by the President's direction, througli the Department of State. 2d. Although " the necessary and reasonable expenses" attending this mission were promised to be paid by the Government, your memorialist regrets to state, that engagement has not been entirely fulfilled. In the settlement of his accounts at the proptir department, considerable dcduc- lions have been made, and refused to be allowed, from the amount of ac- tual expenses paid by your memorialist, and which he humbly thinks ought to be allowed and repaid to him. (See papers marketi C, and let- ters Nos. 6 and 7.) 3d. Your memorialist has not submitted any account against the (tov- ernment for the expenses of preparing for the land journey to the Columbia river. He has exhibited no account for the freight, insurance, or inter- est of the tnoneys devoted by him to the public service ; nor has he charged the ITnited States with the money which he thought it prudent and politic to expend in presents to the natives, and others whom he? visited-. (Papier marked I) contains the probable amount of these ex- penses.) All the above-mentioned charges and expenses, which were incurred and paid by your memorialist for Ihe benefit solely of his Government, he has not presented against it, because he had reasonably expected that the President, in consideration of the services he had rendered, would have made him a suitable compensation. In this expectation your memorialist has been disappointed, and there- fore he presents this memorial to your honorable body, with the request /hat, if you approve his services, you will indemnify him for the actual expenses he has paid in performing them; and will also make him what- ever remuneration you may deem those services to merit from the Con- gress of the United States. And as ia duty bound, your meniorialist will ever pray, &c. W. A, SLACUM. ! 3 A. [^4] Department op State, Washington, November \ I, 1835. , S»". : Having understood tliat yoii are about to visit the Pacific ocean, the President has determined to avail himself of the opportunity thus afford- ed, to obtain some specific and authentic information in regard to the inhabitants of the country in the neighborliood of the Oregon or Columbia river. In ^he belief that you will willingly lend your services in the pros- ecution of this object, I now give you, by the President's direction, such general instructions as may be necessary for your guidance in the execu- tion of the proposed commission. Upon your arrival on the northwest coast of America, you will embrace the earliest opportunity to proceed to and up the river Oregon, by such conveyances as may be thought to offer the greatest facilities for attaining the ends in view. You will, from time to time, as they occur in your progress, stjp at the different settlements of whites on the coast of tJie Uni- ted States, and on the banks of the river, and also at the various Indian villages on the banki^, or in the immediate neighborhood of that river; ascertain, as nearly as possible, the population of each ; the relative num- ber of whites (distinguishing the nation to which they belong) and abo- rigines ; the jurisdiction the whites acknowledge ; the sentiments enter- tained by all in respect to the United States, and to the two European pow(!rs haviuir possessions in that regioti ; and, generally, endeavor to obtain all such information, politicil, physical, statistical, and geographical, as may prove useful or interesting to this Government. For this purpose, it is recommended that you should, whilst employed on this service, keep a journal, in whicli to note down whatever may strike you as worthy of observation, and by the aid of which you will be enabled, when the jour- ney is com])lete(l, to make a full and acciu'ate report to this department of all the information you may have collected in regard to the country and its inhabitants. . Your necessary and reasonable travelling expenses will be paid from the lieginning of your journey from the coast of the Pacific to the Columbia river, and till your return to this city. Vouchers, in all cases where it may be practicable to get them, will be required in, the settlement of your account at the Treasury Department. I am, sir. vour obedient servant, JOHN FORSYTH. William A. Slaci'm, Esq. " n. American Brig Loriot, off San Blas, March 26, 1837. Sir : My letters from GuaymaS) Mazatlan, and San Bias, up to the lOth of October last, will have acquainted you with the difficulties I encountered in endeavoring to get to the Columbia river by the route along the seacoast from Lower California, and also of my intention to proceed to the Sand- wich islands to purchase a vessel to take me into the Columbia. SSSlSt [24] 4 From information I received al Oahii, I considered it necessary to have a vessel under my entire control, in order to be independent of the Hudson Bay Company, (who have absolute authority over the inhabitants on either side of the river, and from 'vhom alone the commonest wants or supplies could be procured ;) at the same time to have a shelter under the flag of my country, from whence I might hold communications with the Indians and whites, and obtain the information required in the "Instructions" I had the honor to receive from the Department of State, of November 11, 1835. 1 have now the honor to communicate the following account of my proceedings, and the result of my observations. I left Oahu in the American brig Loriot on the 24th of November last, and on the 22d of December made Cape Disappointment, tlie northern point of entrance to the Columbia. The wiild wa? high from the west- ward, and the bar presented a terrific appearance, breaking entirely across the channel from the north to the south shoals. The wind blowing di' rectly on shore, and believing it would be impossible to work off against the heavy westwardly swell, we attempted the passage at twelve M., and crossed the bar safely, in not less than five fathoms, and anchored, at two o'clock, in Baker's bay. I am thus particular because the idea generally prevails that the bar of the Columbia should never be crossed when it breaks. In the afternoon the wind strengthen(?d to a gale, but wc were completely sheltered by Cape Disappointment. About ei^ht o'clock at night we were visited by a large canoe, containing twelve Indians of the Chenook tribe. The principal chief, Chejiamus, and his wife, \yere of the party ; they brought us wild fowl, ducks, geese, dec. The first question Chenamus asked on coming on board was, " Is this King George or Boston ship ? " Chenamus told us two vessels were lying at Fort George, distant fourteen miles, on the opposite side of the bay. It was late in the afternoon of the 23d before we weighed, when we stood up the bay towards Fort George. We anchored at night opposite the fort, (at the entrance of the river formed by Chenook point ard Point George,) distant five miles. Early on the morning of the 24th, I crossed over in the boat to the fort, and found the ships alluded to by the Indians were the Hudson Bay Com- pany's ships Nereide and Llama, both loaded and ready for sea ; the former with the annual supply of goods suitable for the Indian trade at the Hudson Bay Company's depots aloujEf the coast at the north, from Pugitt's sound in 47° 30' north, to Fort Simpson, in 64° 40' north ; the latter with a valuable cargo of British manufactures, bound to St. Francisco, California. Ascertained the Hudson Bay Company's ship "Columbia" crossed the bar on the 26th of November, bound to London, with a valua- ^ble cargo of furs and peltries, valued at £80,000— $380,000. On tlie morning of the 25th, John Bionie, the Hudson Bay Company's trader at Fort George, doubtless with a view to inform the chief factors (Messrs. McLaughlin and Finlayson) of the appearance of the Loriot, des- patched a canoe to Fort Vancouver. I availed myself of this oppc "tunity to write to Mr. Finlayson, (a gentleman whom I had known formerly at the Sandwich island^) requesting him to send me down a pilot and a stove, if to be procured at tlie fort. The wind favoring, on the 26th we stood up the river, but made little \ i [24] J 4 t \ t progress against a strong current ; the wind falling light, at night we were compelled to anchor. On the 31st I received an answer from Mr. Finlayson, (by the pilot whom he sent down,) giving me a polite invitation to visit Fort Vancouver — was told that Mr. Doughiss, one of the partners of the Hudson Bay Company, had come down the river. That gentleman, however, proceeded to Fort George by an inside passage ; and I afterwards understood the chief object in his coining down was to inquire into the cause of my visit, as it was already known that the Loriot had no cargo on board. Up to this period we had made but little headway in working up against the wind, with but few hours slack tide ; but this favored my landing daily, and visiting every Indian lodge and village on the river, from " Chenook" to " Oak point." The next day, Mr. Douglass, returning from Fort George, called aboard the Loriot, and repeated the invitation given me by Mr. Finlayson, to visit Fort Vancouver ; and, as there was but one more Indian settlement be- tween this point and the Hudson Bay Company's establishment at Vancou- ver, I embarked with Mr. Douglass, in his canoe, with nine " Canadian voyaguers." We made about fifty miles in twenty-four hours, and landed next day at the fort, where I met a hospitable reception from Dr. John McLaughlin and Mr. Duncan Finlayson. Political and statistical. — State of the country. — In 1G70, a charter of Charles the 2d granted an exclusive trade to the governors and company of adventurers of London, trading into Hudson's bay. They were to have the sole trade and commerce of and to all the seas, bays, and straights, creeks, lakes, rivers, and sounds, in whatsoever latitude, that lie within the straights commonly called Hudson's straights, together with all the lands, countries, and territories upon the coasts of such seas, bays, and straights, which were possessed by any English subject, or subjects of any other Christian State, together with the fishing for all sorts of fish, of whales, sturgeon, and all other royal fish, with the royalty of the seas. As lute as 1825, this extensive charter had not received any parliamentary confirma- tion or sanction. In consequence of the many difficulties and quarrels between the North- west and Hudson Bay Companies, the British Government compelled them to merge their stock into one company, and they are ni)w called the Hud- son Bay Company. This coalition took place in 1821. It is therefore under the charter of the Northwest Company, if such exists, that the Hud- son Bay Company now claim the exclusive right to, and the trade and commerce of, all the country from the north bank of the Columbia river, to 54^^ 40' north, alotifr the coast of the North Pacific ocean., and from thence of all the country within three marine leagues of the coasts the Frozen tr Arctic sea. ^ In 1818, when Fort George (Astoria) was formally given up by Captain Hickcy, of his British Maj sty's ship Blossom, and Judge Prevost and Cap- tain Biddle, the American commissioners, had placed the customary pla- cards declaratory of the event on Capo Di»sappointaient and Point George, the question would scarcely have been asked by any of his Britisli Majes- ty's subjects to whom the country of right belonged. . Soon after the de- parture of the United States ship Ontario, Ca])t;tin Birldle, the buildings al Fort George were destroyed by fire. It is said the act was comniiicd by nm [ 24 ] 6 the Indians, who Hkewise took away the placards put up by the American commissioners. The JNorthwest Company being at this time established at Fort George, (having purchased of Mr. John Jacob Astor, of New York, his interest in his trading establishment, called by him Astoria,) continued to trade with the Indians, and built a trading-house near the site of the old fort. This was kept up, first by the Northwest, and since by the Hudson Bay Com- pany, to the present day. For several years previously to the coalition, however, the interior trade of both companies had become materially less- ened by their vicious and destructive opposition to each oilier; but from this period, the coalition, in 1821, the nov/ Hudson Bay Company have extended their enterprises over an extent of country almost incalculable. I shall endeavor to point out the enterprise of this company, and the in- fluence they exercise over the Indian tribes within our acknowledged lines of territory, and their unauthorized hitroduction of large quantities of British goods within the territorial limits of the United States. Fort Vancouver, the principal depot of the Hudson Bay Conipany west of the Rocky mountains, stands on a gentle acclivity, four hundred yards from the shore, on the noth bank of the Columbia, or Oregon river, about 100 miles from its uiouth. The principal buildings are enclosed by a picket forming an area of 7o0 by 450 feet. Within the pickets, there are thirty-four buildings of all descriptions, including ofiicers' dwelling houses, workshops for carpenters, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, coopers, tinners, &;c., all of wood, except the magazine for powder, which is of brick ; outside and very near the fort there are forty nine cabins for laborers and mechanics, a large and commodious barn, and seven buildings attached thereto ; a hospital and large boat house on the shore, six miles above the fort. On the north bank, the Hudson Bay Company have erected a saw-mill on a neve " ' ag stream of water that falls into the Columbia; cuts 2,000 to 2,40(' of lumber daily ; employs 28 men, chiefly Sandwich Islanders, and ten >oke of oxen ; depth of water, four fathoms, a't the mill, where the largest ships of the company take in their cargoes for the Sandwich islands market. The farm at Vancouver contains, at this time, about 3,000 acres of land, fenced and under cultivation, employing generally 100 men, chiefly Cana- dians and half-breed Iroquois; the mechanics are Europeans. These, with the factors, traders, clerks, and domestics, may be estimated at thirty. The laborers and mechanics live outside the fort, in good log cabins— two or three families generally under one roof; and as nearly every man has a wife, or lives with an Indian or half-breed woman, and as each family has from two to five slaves, the whole number of persons about Vancouver may be estimated at 750 to 800 souls. The police of the establishment is as strict as in the best regulated military garrison. The men are engaged for the term of five years, at the rate of £17 to £15 per annum ; but, as the ex- change is reduced to currency at the rate of five shillings to the dollar, the pound sterling is valued at $4 ; hence, the price of labor is $5 66§ to {$6 66| per month. The ration consists of eight gallons of potatoes and eight salt salmon a week per man. in winter, and peas and tallow in summer ; no bread or meat allowed by the company at any time. Out of this ration, each man has to support himself and family, or make his Indian slaves hunt and fish foj their support. 1 i 7 [ 24 ] The farm at Vancouver has produced this year, 8,000 bushels of wheat, 5,500 bushels of barley, 6,000 bushels of oats, 9,000 bushels of peas, 14,000 bushels of potatoes, besides large quantities of turnips, (rutabaga,) pumpkins, 4fcc. About 6,000 bushels of wheat, of the old qrop, remain on hand this year. iStock consists of about 1,000 head of neat cattle, TOO hogs, 200 shee, , 450 to 500 horses, and 40 yoke of working oxen. There is a large threshing machine, distillery, (not at present in operation,) and a grist-mill. In short, th(i fiirm is abundantly supplied with all the requisite utensils for a much larger establishment ; and it will be much increased the ensuing year. A thriving orchard is also planted ; the apple, quince, pears, and the grape grow well. Trade^ ^c. — A large ship arrives annually from London, and discharges at Vancouver; CcTTgo, chiefly coarse woollens, cloths, baizes, and blankets; hardware, cutlery, calicoes, cottons, and cotton handkerchiefs; tea, sugar, coffee, and cocoa; tobacco, soap, beads, guns, powder, lead, rum, playing cards, boots, shoes, ready-made clothing, &,c., A:c.; besides every description of sea stores, canvass, cordage, paints, oils, chains and chain cable, anchors, tfcc, to refit the company's ships that remain on the coast. These are the ship Nereide, the brig Llama, the schooner Cadborougli, and sloop Brough- ton ; the steamboat Benrer, of 150 tons, two engines of thirty horse power each, built in London last year. 'J^hese vessels are all well armed and niiunied ; the crews are engaged in England, to serve five years, at £2 per month for seamen. The London ship, with the annual supply, usually arrives in the Columbia in early spring, discharges, and takes a cargo of lumber to the Sandwich islands; returns in August to receive the furs that are brought to the depot (Fort Vancouver) once a year, from the interior, via the Columbia river, from the Snake country, and from the American rendezvous west of the Rocky mountains, and. from as far south as St. Francisco, «x California. Whilst one of the company's vessels brings in the collections of furs and peltries made rtt the different depots along the coast at the north, (see map,) the steamboat is now being employed in navi- gating those magnificent straights from Juan de Tuca to Siickern. Im- mense quantities of furs, sea otter, beaver, martin, and sable can be collected along the shores of these bays and inlets. The chief traders at Narquallah, in 47° 30', Fort Langley, in 49° 50', Fort McLaughlin, in 52° 10', Fort Simpson, in 54° 40' north, purchase all the furs and peltries from the In- dians in their vicinity and as far as New Caledonia, in the interior, and supply them with guns, powder, lead, tobacco, beadsj &.c. ; all of which supplies are taken from the principal depot at Fort Vancouver. An express, as it is called, goes out in March, annually, from Vancouver, and ascends 1,he Columbia 900 miles in batteaux. One of the chief factors, or chief traders, takes charge of the property, and conveys to York factory, on Hudson's bay, the annual returns of the business conducted by the Hud- son Bay Company west of the Rocky mountains, in the Cojumbia district. This party likewise conveys to the different forts along the route, (see map.) goods suitable to the Indian trade ; other parties take up supplies, as they may be required, to Wallawallah, 250 miles above Vancouver; to Colville, 600 miles above ; to the fort at the junction of Lewis's river, 700 miles above; and to the south to the Fort McRoys, on the river Umpqua, in lati- tude 43° 50' north: and last year, chief trader Mclicod took up to the American rendezvous, in about latitude 43° north, a large supply of British manufactures. This assemblaire of American trappers and hunters takes [24] 9 place annually on the western side of tlie Rocky niountuins, generally m the month of July, and amounts from 450 to 500 men, who brings the result of their year's lah)or to sdll to the American fur traders. These persons purchase their supplies for the trappers at St. Louis; though, after being subject to the duties on these articles, (chiefly of British manufacture,) they transport their goods about i,400 miles by land, to sell to citizens of the United States within our acknowledged lines of territory. Last year, ihey met a powerful opponent, in the agent of this foreign monopoly, chief trader McLeod, who could well afford to undersell the American fur trader on his ovm ground — first, by having the advantage of water communiciition on the Columbia and Lewis's rivers for a distance of 700 to 800 miles; and. secondly, by introducing the goods free of duty, v\ hich is equal to at least twenty-five to thirty per cenUnn: but a greater evil than this exists in the influence the Hudson Bay Company exercises over the Indians, by suppl}'- ing them with arms and ammunition, which may prove, at some future period, highly dangerous to our frontier settlements. Besides this, the policy of this company is calculated to perpetuate the institution of slavery, which now exists, and is encouraged, among all the Indian tribes west of tlie Rocky mountains. I shall refer to this more particularly hereafter. From what I have seen, I feel perfectly satisfied that no individual enterprise can compete with this immense foreign monopoly established in our own waters; for instance, an American vessel, coming from New York oi* Boston to trade on the nortli- west coast or the Columbia, would bring a cargo chiefly of British manu- factures, on which ihe duties had been paid ; or, if the cargo was shipped for drawback, the vessel would have to enter some other port to discharge and reload, in order to get the benefit of the debenture certificates; whereas the Hudson Bay Company's vessels come direct from liOndon, discharge at Vancouver, pay no duty, nor are they subject to the expense and delay of discharging and reloading in a foreign port. Since the year 1828, a party of forty to fifty trappers, (Canadians,) with their women, slaves, &.c., generally amounting to 150 to 200 persons, and 300 horses, go out from Vancouver, towards the south, as far as 40° north latitude. These parties search every stream, and take every beaver skirj they find, regardless of the destruction of the young animals: excesses, too. ore unquestionably comhiitted by these hunting parties on the Indians ; and every small American party (save one) that has passed through the same country has met defeat and death. The parties oeing much smaller than those of the Hudson Bay Company, the Indians attack them with success; and the Americans hesitate not to charge the subordinate agents of the Hudson Bay Company with instigating the Indians to attack all other parties. In 1829, the American brig Owyhee, Captain I3omines, of New York, entered the Columbia, and commenced trading with the Indians for beaver skins and peltries. In the course of nine months, Captain Domipes pro- cured a cargo valued dX ninety-six thousand dollars. It happened that this year the fever that has since desolated the Cohiinbia from the falls to Oak point appeared, and Dr. McLaughlin, thechieffactorofthe Hudson Bay Com- pany, with all the gravity imaginable, informed me the Indians to this day be- lieve that Homines, of the '■^Boston shijt,''' brought the fever to the river. How easy was it for the Hudson Bay Company's agents to make the Indians believe this absurdity, for reasons, too, the most obvious ! Domines was dai- 9 [24] ly assailed with reports that the Indians intended attacking him when hi«? vessel was lying at the rapids of the Willhamett, alias the " Maltononiah," of Lewis and Clark. The Rev. Jason Lee told me Dr. McLaughlin had in- formed him that the principal chief of the Willhamett tribe had proposed to cut off the Owyhee, doubtless thinking it would prove agreeable to the Hud- son Bay Company. Dr. McLaughlin, of course, forbid the measure. The Indians are taught to believe that no vessels but the "Company's" ships are allowed to trade in the river ; and most of them are afraid to sell their skins but at Vancouver or Fort George ; of this 1 had positive evidence from the Indians themselves, as well as from a remark made by chief tra- der, McLeod, aboard the " Llama," in Baker's bay. It was mentioned in the course of conversation that a Madam " Perand," wife of one of the Canadian settlers on the Willhamett, had just come in with twenty to thirty fine beaver skins. Some one of the party remarked, turning towards Cap- tain Bancroft, of the Loriot, "there is a fine chance for a bargain." Mr. Mc Leod quickly replied— "d — n the skin shall Madam 'Perand' sell to cross the bar of the Columbia." This was said in the presence of Captains McNeil, Bancroft, Brotchie, Rd. Bevrevie, and myself. The next American vessel that entered the river after the Owyhee and her consort, the " Convoy," was the brig " Mary Dane," of Boston. She arrived in 1835, to procure a cargo of salmon. In consequence of some arrangement, the cause of whicli I am unacquainted with, Mr. Wyeth, the owner and agent, agreed not lo purchase furs, provided 13r. McLaughlin would throw no impediment in his w;iy of procuring salmon. This en- terprise failed ; only 800 to 900 pounds of salmon were obtained. Stock, i$'c. of the Hudson Bay Company, is held in shares, (100.) Chief traders and chief factors who reside in America, are called partners. Chief factors are entitled to one-eight of one share, or rather the profits arising from the same, equal to about $4,500 to $5,000 per annum. Chief traders one-sixteenth, or half the above amount, $2,250 to $2,500. They are not stockholders in perpetuity, as they cannot sell out as other stockholders, but have only a life estate in the general stock. A council annually assembles at " York Factory," where reports from the different " districts," east and west of the Rocky mountains are read and recorded, and their proceedings forwarded to London, to the "Hudson Bay house." Chief factors and chief traders hold a seat at this council board, and Gavernor Simpson presides. It is here that every new enterprise is canvassed, expense and probable profits carefully inquired into, as each member feels a personal interest in every measure adopted. If it is ascer- tained that in certain "districts" the quantity of beaver diminishes, the trap- pers are immediately ordered to desist for a few years, that the animals may increase, as the wealth of t!ie country consists in its furs ; and so strict are the laws among many of the northern Indian tribes that to kill a beaver out of season, (i. e. in the spring or summer,) is a crime punished with death. The enforcement of this law is strongly encouraged by the Hudson Bay Company. Not so careful, however, are the company of the territory not their own ; on the contrary, they have established, a rort and trading house called " McRoy's Fort," on the river Umpqua, in 43*^ 50'. This fine stream falls into the Pacific, (but is not laid down in any printed map ;) ten thousand beaver skins are collected here, and double this amount brought out of the country adjacent, within our lines ; and the Indians are encouraged to " (rap the streams-^ at all seasons ; from Wallawallah, Lewis's river, and the Snake [24] 10 f I .|- •li country, all lying between 42° and 46° north latitude, 60,000 skins me collected. The price of a beaver skin in the '> Columbia district" is ten shillings, $2, payable in goods at 50 per cent on the invoice cost. Each skin averages one and a half pound, and is worth in New York or Lon- don $5 per pound ; value $7 50. The beaver skin is the circulating me- dium of the country. Indian slavery. — The price of a slave varies from eight to fifteen blan- kets. Women are valued higher than men. If a slave dies within six months of the time of purchase, the seller returns one-half the purchase money. As long as the Hudson Bay Company permit their servants to hold slaves, the institution of slavery will be perpetuated, as the price, eight to fifteen blankets, is too tempting for an Indian to resist. Many instances have occurred where a man has sold his own child. The chief factor at Vancouver says the slaves are the property of the women with whom their woikmen live, and do not belong to men in their employ, although I have known cases to the contrary. We shall see how this reasoning applies. These women, who are said to be the owners of the slaves, are frequently bought themselves by the men with whom they live, when they are mere children ; of course they have no means to purchase, until their husbands w their men make the purchase from the proceeds of their labor ; and then these women are considered the ostensible owners, which neither lessens the traffic, nor ameliorates the condition of the slave, whilst the Hudson Bay Company find it to their interest to encourage their servants to inter- marry or live with the native women, as it attoches the men to the soil, and their offspring (half breeds) become in their turn useful hunters and work- men at the different depots. of the company. The slaves are generally em- ployed to cut wood, hunt, and fish, for the families of the men employed by the Hudson Bay Company, and are ready for any extra work. Each man of the trapping parties has from two to three slaves, who assist to hunt, and take care of the horses and camp ; they thereby save the company the ex- pense of employing at least double the number of men that would other- wise be required on these excursions. After passing ten days at Fort Vancouver, and visiting the Indian lodges near the farm, hed his ears he ^nch in- bnnd in le The Rev. Jason Lee, missionary of the Methodist Episcopal Church, of New York, having heard through Dr. McLaughlin of my intention to visit the Willhamett settlement, politely came down from the mission house, dis- tant eighteen miles, to meet me at this place. In company with this gen- tleman, I called on all the settlers in the lower settlement, and next day vis- ited the mission house and upper settlement. No language of mine can convey an adequate idea of the great benefit these worthy and most excel- lent n^eu, the Messrs. Jason and Daniel Lee, Messrs. Shephard and Edwards, their assistants, have conferred upon this part of the countrj^, not by pre- cept, but example, as I think the following result of their labors will show. To use Mr. Jason Lee's own words, " it was after having heard that an Indian, of the Flat Head tribe had crossed the Rocky mountains to inquire of Governor Clark, at St. Louis, about the Grorf that the pale faces worship- ped, that first led me to think of establishing a ' mission' west of the moun- tains." Two years since, last October, Mr. Lee's party encamped on the ground where their dwelling now stands, immediately on the banks of the "Willhamett." They commenced felling timber with their own hands, and by Christmas they erected the frame of their house and had it half covered in, and fenced 24 acres of land. In the spring they put in a crop which pro- duced the first year, 1835, 150 bushels of wheat. 35 do. 56 do. 87 do. 250 do. 2d year, 1836 : 500 bushete of wheat of oats, of barley, of peas, of potatoes. of peas, of oats, of barley, of corn, of beans, of potatoes, with a full supply of garden vegetables. They have built a good barn, added to their dwelling-house, which now consists of four large rooms, 18 by 20 feet, lofts and cellar, have a good garden and 150 acres of land enclosed under good fencing. With the exception of three months' hired labor of a carpenter to finish the inside of their dwelling and make tables, forms, &,c. for their school room, the above is the work of these pious and industrious men, assisted by the Indian children of the school. Their family at present consists of 3 adults, and 19 full blooded, and4 half breed Indian children, 10 of whom are orphans. 7 girls and 15 boys attend the school ; likewise 8 half breeds' children of the neighboring settlers. The children are all taught to speak English. Several of them read perfectly well. They are all well clothed and fed, and are already very cleanly in their habits. The larger boys work on the farm in fine weather. They can plough, reap, and do all ordinary farm work well. Several of them evince gooid me- chanical genius. Mx. Lee assures me that most of the boys have earned their board, clothing, and tuition, estimating their labor at the lowest rate of wages allowed by the Hudson Bay Company. Their school and family could be much increased, but they do not wish to add to their number until they receive further assistance, thinking it the wisest plan at present, for [24] 12 n i the sake of example, to attend strictly to the mental and physical instruc- tion of these " Neophytes." The land on which the mission house is established is rich alluvial de- posite, open prairie, interspersed with good timber. Mr. liCe acknowledges the kindest assistance from Dr. McLaughlin, of Fort Vancouver, who gave him the use of horses, oxen, and milch cows, and furnished him with all his supplies. Indeed, Dr. McLaughlin has acted towards many of the settlers in the same manner, giving them the use of cattle and horses on the following terms : The produce of the neat cattle and horses belong to the Hudson Bay Company, and are liable to be called for at any time. If the cattle die, the persons holding them are not charged with their value. Horses^ to be returned in kind, or the sura of $8, the current value of the horse, is charged. To convey an idea of the industry and iprogress of the Willhamett set- tlement, I beg to refer to paper B. It would be doing the Messrs. Lee and their associates injustice, were I to omit speaking of their successful and happy efforts in establishing a temperance society among men who are gen- erally considered as being almost without the pale of moral restraint, (I mean trappers ;) and it affords me great pleasure to add, that every white man in the settlement entertains the highest respect for the character and conduct of the Lees and their associates. This circumstance is sufficient evidence of their worth. Papers C and D will show their laudable efforts in arresting this destructive element, the white man's poison, the Indian's certain death. The case of Ewing Young, referred to in paper C, will be understood by his statement E, and some verbal explanations which I shall make in rela- tion to his case. After duly considering the great benefit that would result to this thriving country if the distillery of Ewing Young could be prevented from being put into operation, and inasmuch as he candidly admitted it was nothing but sheer necessity that compelled him to adopt the measure, I told him (Young) that I thought he had gained his point without adopting the expedient that produced it, as 1 was authorized by Mr. Finlayson to sf.y,. " if he would abandon his enterprise of distiUing whiskey, he could he permitted to get his necessary supplies from Fort Vancouver, on the same terms as other men ;" and further : I proposed to loan him ^150, get him a supply of decent clothing from the fort, in my name, and give himself and his partner, Carmichael, a passage to California, as he informed me*he was exceedingly anxious to go thither to clear himself of the calumny that General Figacou, had through Dr. McLaughlin, circulated against him, producing in effect the most unjustifiable persecution. Mr. Young seemed deeply sensible of my offer : said a cloud hung over him so long, through Dr. McLaughlin's influence, that he was almost maddened by the harsh treatment he had received from that gentleman. I left him under a promise of receiving an answer to my proposition next day. In the course of con- versation with Mr. Lee, Young, and other settlers, I found that nothing was wanting to insure comfort, wealth, and every happiness to the people of this most beautiful country but the possession of neat cattle, all of those in the country being owned by the Hudson Bay Company, who refuse to sell them under any circumstances whatever. I then proposed to give to as many of the settlers as chose to embark in the Loriot, a free passage to California, where they might procure cattle at $3 per head. The advan- tage of being landed in California or Bodega free of expense, and the risk I being othing d him ijg the to st.y,. uld he e same :et him imselt' me 'he y that it him, leemed lirough harsh iromise f con- othing people those Ifuse to five to saffc to ladvnn- 13 [•i4] of the road, was very great. A meeting was accordingly held in the lower settlement, where the paper F was drawn up. Mr. Young was appointed leader of the party. All the settlers who had money due' them worn the Hudson Bay Company contributed to the enterprise. Ten men embarked in the Loriot, and were landed safely at Bodega, on the 20th February. I advanced Mr. Lee $500. This sum, added to the contributions of the settlers, produced $1,600, a sura sufficient to purchase five hundred head of cattle in California. I will here remark that when I parted with Mr. Young, at Monterey, on the 2d March, he had every prospect of pro- curing all the cattle required, on the north side of the bay of St. Francisco, He hr\d likewise received propositions from several Americans residing at California to return with him to the Willhamett with their stock of cattle, thus doubly reinforcing the settlement from this accession the party will receive in California. They will doubtless reach the Willhamett scifely in June, the distance by the coast of the Pacilic being about six hundred miles. The men are all experienced woodsmen. 1 certainly view this measure as one of the highest importance to the future growth and pros- perity of this fine country, even if no other object is attained by my visit to the Columbia. A large cargo of wheat, five thousand five hundred bushels, could at this time be procured from the settlers on the Willhamett. It would find a good market at the Sandwich islands, the Russian settlements at Norfolk sound, (Sitka,) or in Peru ; but some steps must be taken by our Government to protect the settlers and the trader, not from the hostility of the Indians, but from a much more formidable enemy, that any American trading house establishing itself on the Willhamet or Columbia would have to encounter, in the Hudson Bay Company. All the Canadian settlers have been in the service of the company ; and from being for a long time subject to the most servile submission to the chiefs of tne monopoly, are now, although discharged from the service of the company, still blindly obedient to the will of those in authority at Vancouver, who, on their part, urge the plea that, by the.legislative enactments of Canada, they are prohibited from discharging their servants in the Indian country. Therefore they consider the people of the Willhamett, although freemen in every sense of the word still subject to the protection and authority, liierwise thraldom of the Hudson Bay Company — it being only necessary for the authorities at Vancouver to say, " if you disobey my orders, your supplies shall be cut off;" and the settler knows Sit once that. his few comforts, nay, necessaries of life, are stopped, rendering him more miserable than the savage that lurks around his dwelling. At the public meeting that took place at " Camp Maud du Sable" on the subject of the expedition to California, the liveliest interest appeared to be felt when 1 told the " Canadians" that, although they were located within the territorial limits of the United States, their pre-emption rights would doubtless be secured them when our Government should take possession of the country. I also cheered tliem with the hope that ere long some steps might be taken to open a trade and commerce with the country. They now only find a market for their wheat, after being compelled to transport it themselves in canoes, (the portage of the Willhamett in their way,) at Fort Vancouver, at the low price of 50 cts. per bushel, payable in goods at 50 per cent, advance, whilst the Russians are paying $1 50 this year'in Cali- m risk [24] 14 m iil fornia for their supplies for "Sitka." Tiie quantity annually required i?< about 25,000 bushels. The entrance of the Columbia river is formed by Cape Disappointment on the north, in latitude 46° 19' north, and 123° 59' west longitude, and Point Adams, on the south, in 46° 14' north, ai>d 123° 54' west longitude, physical and geographical. It was between the years 1780 and 1782, 1 believe, that Captain Meir, in ^n English merchant ship of London, saw " Cape Disappointment," and entered the bay between the two capes ; but, as " Chemook" and " Tongue pcnnt" interlock, Captain Meir left the bay under the impression that it extended no further inland. He published an account ol his voyage in London, in 1785 — 1786, on his return, and called the boy Deception bay. The next year, 1783 to 1784, Captain Gray, of Boston, in tlie American'ship" Columbia," entered the bay and stood up the river as far OS the point designated on the map as Gray's bay, where he overhauled and retitted his ship. Captain Gray called the river the " Columbia," after his ship. In 1787, Vancouver entered the river, and Lt. Brougton, in the cutter Chatham, stood up the river as far as the bluff, (the old ^ite of Fort Vancouver,) about one mile distant from the site of the present fort. But the Spaniards had doubtless a knowledge of this country long before this period. The expedition from San Bias, in 1776, saw the river, and ..called it the " Oregon." (Manuscripts in the marine archives at Madrid.) The Rus- sian expedition under fiehring, in 1741, did not come as far south, as Cnpe Flattery, in 49° north. As I" have not the means at present of giving any further information of ihp early discovery of this part of the countiy, I shall now speak of its present appearance, &c., begging to claim your atten- tion to the maps of the Columbia and the country south as far as the Rus- sian settlements as Bodega. In entering the Columbia river, you find a bar extending across the channel, (two miles in width,) from the north to the south shoals. The shoalest water on the bar is four and a half fathoms ; but as the prevailing winds in winter are from the westward, and the entrance lies exposed to the swell of the Pacific ocean, the bar breaks with a wind of any force if from the west of north or south and west of east. At present, vessels are kept outside for several days waiting for clear weather to run in, having neither beacon, buoys, nor lights to guide them when close in with the shore. This delay would be obviated in a great measure if ihe coast was surveyed and propierly lighted. "Cape Disappointment" is a hi^h, bold promontory, about 400 feet above the sea, covered with timber from its base to the top. »* Point Adams" is low, and cannot be seen at a great distance. The sail- ing directions which I shall be able to present with a chart of the river, will more fully e:^plain the appearance of the bay and river. As far as the depth of water is marked on the chart, it may be fully relied on. f ca.ii....t Isave this subject without pointing out the great facihty and the advantages- that would result from a thorough ctit of not more than three-quarters of a mile through the lowest point of the Cape Disappointment, from Baker's bay to the ocean. The soil is light, and the height not more than sixty feet at the point proposed ; and I have not the slightest doubt that a deep and safe channel would soon be made by the action of the tide (at the rate of five to six knots an hour) as it sweeps around the bay, bringing with it the whole volume of water of the Columbia and its tributaries. Every thing around the shores oi Baker's bay shows the richness of the 15 [54] metit tude, west Meir, nent," " and essiou oyage I'ption in the as far hauled ," after in the 3f Fort 3ut the period. it the e Rus- is Cape , I shall • atten- le Rus- oss the The availing ised to ;e if ire kept neither This cd and iiontory, the top. he sail- er, will as th(^ ca'..ii.<^t antages- lers of a Baker's xty feet iep nnd Tate of |th it the of the soil. The pines, furs, and the most beautiful variety of flowers, grow to an ex- traordinary size, whilst the finest grasses are seen at this season frhiging^tlie sides of the hills to the water's edge. For the first ten miles, as you ascend the Columbia from (/henook and Point George, whiqh may, properly speak- ing, be called the momh of the river, its width is about four nules. It then narrows to about one mile, and continues at this width to Vancouver, (with but two exceptions, for a mile or two.) At " Oak Poini" village, the oak is first seen : from thence the oak, ash, laurel, cotton wood, beach, alder, pines, firs, yew, and cedar, are found to the falls. Geological formations at Fort George are concretions of shells, sandstone, and plumbago. On the Willhamett, remarkably fine gray granite is found. Indiati statistics.— The first tribes of Indians in Baker's bay, are the Chenook, on the north Clatsops. On the south the latter live at Point Adan^s and on Young's river, where Lewis and Clark wintered. Both tribes at this, time do not exceed 800. Rum Rumley, the principal chief of the Clatsops, who was always the white man's friend, and who rendered every assistance in his power to Lewis and Clark, is no more ; and, "s an evidence of the effect of intemperance among these miserable Indians, out of 40 descendant of this chief not one is this day alive. Chenamas (Chenook) claims authority over the people from " Baker's bay" to the Cowility ; but Squamaqui disputes his fiuthority from Gray's bay to the above point. From the river Cowility to the falls of the Columbia, (see map.) '• Kassenow"' claims authority. His tribe, since 1829, has lost more than 2,000 souls by fever. They are principally " Rea Ratacks," very erratic, and the only gocd hunters on the river below the falls, as all the other tribes immediately on the river below the falls, as well as those who frequent the waters of the Columbia during the season of the salmon and sturgeon, subsist chiefly on fish and wild fowl ; and the ease with which they procure food, fish, and fowl, with the delicious vegetable the " Wapspitoo" and " Kamass" engenders the most indolent habits among these people. Willhamett or Multonomah tribes live in the valley formed by the range" of mountains, running north and south, in which Mount Hood and Mount Vancouver is laid down in Arrowsmith's map, (sometimes called the Klannet range, from the Indians of that name,) and on the west by the Kallamook and Yamstills, running south parallel with river and ocean. In ascending this beautiful river, even in midwinter, you find both 'sides clothed in ever- green, presenting a more l)eautiful prospect that the Ohio in June. l*Vr 10 to 12 miles, on the left bank, the river is low, and occasionally overflows. On the right the land rises gradually from the water's edge, covered with firs, cedar, laurel, and pine. The oak and ash is at this season covered with long moss, of a pale sage green, contrasting finely with the deeper tints of the evergreens. The first tribe of Indiana are the Kallamooks, on the left bank, on a small stream of the same name, 30 miles from its mouth : 2d are Keowewall'ahs, alias Tummewatas ox Willhametts. This tribe, now nearly extinct, was formerly very numerous, and live at the falls of the river, 32 miles from its mouth, on the right bank. They claim the ri^ht of fishing at the falls, and exact a tribute from other tribes who come hither in the salmon season, (from May till October.) Principal chie& deceased. This river at the prment day takes its name from this tribe. 3d. " Kallapooyahs" occupy lodges on both sides of the river. 4th. " Fallatrahs" on a small stream of same name, right or west bank. 5th. Champoicho — west bank. 6th. Yam« I' ' I 1 1] ; ili 1*1 IN] [24] IG stills— west bank. 7th. Leeiahs— both sides. 8th. Hanchoicks. All these 5 tribes speak Kaliapooyah diakct, and are doubtless of that tribe, but at present are divided as designated, and governed by chiei's as named. • All these tribes do not exceed 1,200. The ague and fever, which commenced on the Columbia in 1829, likewise appeared on this river at the same time. It is supposed that it has been more fatal in its effects. It has swept off not less than 5,000 to 6,000 souls. In a direction still further south, in Tularez, near St. Francisco, CaUfomia, entire villages have been depopulated, I am happy to add, however, that this scourge to these poor Indians is disap- pearing. The abovenamed constitute all the Indians to be found on the Willhamett, from its source in the mountains to its entrance into the Columbia, a distance of about 200 miles. The brig Owyhee, Captain Domines, moored at the rapids about a mile below the falls, in 12 feet water. Above the falls there is doubtless steam- Ijoat navigation for 150 miles. For a distance of 250 miles in extent by 40 in breadth, including both sides the river, (6,500,000 acres,) the land is of the most superior quality, rich alluvial deposite, yielding in several in- stances the first year 60 bushels of fine wheat to the acre. The general aspect of the plams is prairie, but well interspersed with woodlands, pre- senting the most beautiful scenery imaginable. The pastures at this day (12th January) pre covered with the richest grasses, 8 to 12 inches high. I should be aliiiost afraid to speak of the extraordinary mildness of the climate of this country, were I not enabled to present you thermometrical observations at Vancouver and Fort Simpson, in 52° north, and Bodega, in 39°. I may fairly state the difference to be equal to 15° of latitude ' between the coasts of the west and east of this continent. It is to be kept in view, that the Willhamett is due south from the Columbia. I found, on my return to Vancouver, on the I9th January, that snow had fallen, and the river^was closed with floating ice, ihat had come down and blocked up the passage. Although I was not more than 70 to 80 mines south, I neither saw snow n6r ice. I consider the Willhamett as the finest grazing country in the world. Here there are no droughts, as on the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, or the plains of California, whilst the lands abound with richer grasses, both in winter and summer. In 1818, the Hudson Bay Company had one bull and two cows ; last year they salted 70, and have now upwards of 1,000 head of neat cattle from this stock. No comment is necessary in pre- senting this fact tp your notice. The low grounds of the Columbia over- flow, and the highlands are covered with timber of great size, which would require immense labor in clearing. Fort Vancouver is the only spot, from Fort George upwards, where a rarm of any size could be opened. From the map of the country south of the Columbia, which I shall be able to prepare from the rough thon^ correct sketches in my possession, you will discover there are four rivers which fall into the Pacific ocean between 41° 33' north latitude and Columbia. Three of these, with "Peli- can bay," in latitude 42° 4' north, are within the limits of the United States, but are not laid down in any published chart of the present day. Klamet riv^r, 41° 33' north latitude, 123° 54' west longitude. [ West "Rougues" liver, 42^ 26, north latitude, 124° 14" west longitude. West Cowis river, 43° 31' north latitude, 124°4' west longitude. . West Umpgua, 43° 60' north latitude, 123° 56' west longitude. Last year, 183*^, the Hudson Bay Company's schooner " Cadborough," 17 [24] these 5 , but at A. AH imenced 06 time. t oflF not rularez, ated. I is disap- i on the into the t a mile s steam- ttent by 3 land is veral in- general ids, pre- this day les high. « of the •metrical Bodega, latitude D be kept I found, d fallen, blocked south, I e world. 5, or the I, both in one bull of 1,000 in pre- )ia over- ;h would )ot, from shall be )ssession, ic ocean ith "Peli- e United t day. )ngitnde. I. • t )orough," tillered two of these rivers with 8 feet water. " Pelican bay" is a good harbor. From the intbrmation of Mr. Young and other trappers, 1 ain told the Umpqua is nearly the same size as the Willhamett. The lands are equally good and well timbered. The river called " Rougues," or sometimes Smith's river, abounds with the finest timber west of the Rocky mountains ; and it may be fairly estimated that the valleys of the rivere certainly within the limits of the United States,* contain at least 14,000,000 of acres of land of first quality, equal to the best lands of Missouri or Illi- nois. The Indians west of the Rocky mounUiins, between the Columbia and 42° north latitude, may be estimated at 100,000, two-thirds of whom are armed by the Hudson Bay Company. North of the Columbia, along the coast to Cape Flattery, the " Chehulis" Indians inhabit the country. They have a friendly intercourse with the Indians of Baker's bay, although theyspoak a different dialect. On the " Cowility," (^see map,) which falls into the Columbia, there are a few Indians of the Klackutuck tribe. Coal has been found here. Dr. McLaughlin now compels the (^anfidians, whose term of service expires, and who are anxious to become farmers, to settle on this river, as it lies to the north of the Columbia. The rea- son he assigns is, that the north side of the Columbia river will belong to the Hudson Bay Company. If one side of the river is claimed, with the same propriety they might claim both sides. The navigation of the Colum- bia is absolutely necessary to the Hudson Bay Company^ without this, they have no passage into the heart of their finest possessions in the interior, New Caledonia, &c. 1 loiow not what p jlitical influence they command ; but this monopoly is very wealthy ; and, when the question of our western lines of territory is settled, they (the Hudson Bay Company) will make the most strenuous efforts to retain free navigation of the Columbia — more im- portant to them than the free navigation of the St. Lawrence is to the peo- ple of the United States. 1 beg leave to call your attention to the topography of " PugUCs sound'^ and urge, in the most earnest manner, that this point should never be abandoned. If the United States claim, as I hope tbey ever will, at least OS far as 49 degrees of north latitude, running due west from the « Lake of the Woeds,^^ on the above parallel we shall take in " Pugitt's sound." In a military point of view, it is of the highest importance to the United States. If it were in the hands of any foreign power, especially Great Britain, with the influence she could command (through the Hudson Bay Company) over the Indians at the north, on those magnificent straights of " Juan de Tuca," a force.of 20,000 men could be brought by water iii large canoes to the sound, " Pttgitfs," in a few days, from thence to the Columbia ; the dis- tance is but two days' march, via the Cowility. I hope our claim to 54° of north latitude will never be abandoned ; at all events, we should never mve up Pugitt's sound, nor permit the free navigation of the Columbia, unless, indeed, a fair equivalent was oflfered, such as the free navigation of the' St. Lawrence. I am now more convinced than ever of the importance of the Columbia river, even as a place where, for eight months in the year, our whalers from the coast of Japan might resort for supplies, which, in the course of a few years, would be abundant, if the citizens of the United States could receive from the Grovernment the protection due to them. A jcustom-house, established at the mouth of the Columbia, would eff!ectually • Exclusive of the Columbia and Willhamett, mmmmm ■IP [24] 18 T r? ' ' I ft i' protect the American trader from the raonojioly which the Htidson Hiiy Company enjoy at this time, and a singh mihtary post would be sufficient to ^ive effect to the laws of the United States, and protect our citizens in their lawful avocations. We descended the Columbia in the Loriot on the 23d of January, and found the Hudson Bay Company's ships Nereide and Llima still in " Baker's bay." having been detained since the 22d of December. On the '29th of January, a violent gale from the southeast commenced before day light. On the morning of the 30th, the Loriot parted both cables, and was driven ashore. We received every iissistuice from the Nereide and Llama, In two or three days the Loriot was got afloat. In the mean time, Captain Bancroft went up to Fort Vancouver, and succeeded in getting a good chain- cable, stream, and anchor. On the 10th of February, the bar was smooth and the wind from the eastward. AVe got under way with the Hudson Bay Company's ships Nereide and Lliima, and crossed the bar safely, and store! on our way towards » Bodega," the Russian settlement in California. Nothing material occurred from the day we left Columbia utrtil the mornino^ of the I9th of February, when we made the land off thd "Presidia Ross.' Tlie wind being light, I took the boat at 8 miles distant, and pjissed in lor the fort. About three miles distant from the Xjoriot, I met three Bydackcus coming off to us. An officer deiivere/d a polite message from the Russian Governor, and immediately returned to the shore with me. About 2 o'clock 1 landed, and met a hospital le reception from Mr. Peter Rostrometinotf, tJ»e Russian military and civil comunuidant of the Russian American Fur Company. The Presidia Ross lies in 38° 40' north latitnde, immediately on the ocean, on a hill sloping gradually towards the sea. The rear is crowned by a range of hills 1,500 leet in height, covered with {unes, firs, cedar, and laurel, ren- dering the position of the fort highly picturesque. The fort is an enclo' sure 100 yards S(]uare, picketted with limber 8 inches thick by 18 feet high^ mounts four 12 lb. carronadeson eadi angle, and four 6 lb. brass howitzer-s fronting the principal gate ; has two octangular block-houses, with loop holes for musketry, and 8 buildings within the enclosure and 48 outside, heside a large boat-house at the landing place, blacksmith's shop, carpen' ters and coopers' shop, and a large stable for 200 cows, the number usually milked. The Russians first settled at "Bodega,'' about 18 miles south of Ross, in 1813. it was thought to afford facilities for ship-building, and a good point for seal fishing and " sea otter" hunting. Two vessels of up- wards of two hundred tons have been built here, and several smaller ves- sels of 25 to 40 tons. The oak, however, *of which these vessels have been built, is not good, although it is an evergreen, and resembles in grain the " post oak ;" it is of far inferior quality. This establishmentof theiiussiaus seems now to be kept up principally as a " point d'appui ;" and hereafter it may be urged in furtherance of the claims of the "Imperial Autocrat'^ to ttiis country, having now been in possession of Ross and "^ Bodega" for 24 years, without molestation. Two ships annually come down for wheal from (Sitka.) Their cargoes are purchfised in California; like*vise, tallow and jerked beeC^ for Nils on the Russian American Fur Company, St. Peters' Inii^. Tl)€se bills fall intp the hands of the Aroerjean traders from Boston and the Sandwich islands, who receive these bills, irom the Califbrougos as nioney in payment of goods. Ross contains about 400 souls : 60 of whom are Russians and "Fins," 80 '^Kodiacka," the xemainder Indians of the neighborhood, who work well with the plough and uckle. All the Rus' 19 [M] :n » for sians and Pinlimders are artisans. Wages $35 to $40 per annum. They export butter and cheese to Sitka. But few skins (seals) are now taken — no sea otters. This year the farm is much increased. 240 fanegas, equal to 600 bushels, ol wheat is sown. It generally yields 12 bushels for one. Stock, 1,500 head of neat cattle, SOO horses and mules, 400 to 500 sheep, and 3(K) hogs. Climate, ^*c. — Within the last three years a very material change has taken place in the climate along this coast. Formerly, in the months of May, June, July, August, September, and October, the winds prevailed from northwest to west ; November, pecemher, January, February, Marclt, and April, southwest to south southeiist winds prevailed ; but for three years past the winds arc exactly reversed. It is, consequently, much colder in winter than formerly. In May and June fogs settle on the hills near Ross, and produce rust in wheat. Therinometrical observations at Ross, in 1836, Fahrenheit. Latitude 38° 41' north. 1830, maximum 66°, average 12 M. " minimum 43° " maximum " minimum " maximum *' minimum maximum minimum maximum In October, November, (( December, Jauuurv, 1837 (( February, 72^ 38° 62° 36° 5S° 38° 56° 43P " " muumum 7V/«6er. — Oaks, four species— two are evergre^ni ; sweet-scented laurel, excellent wood ; cedar of Lebanon ; " Douglass pine" grows to an extra- ordinary size ; common pines, firs, alder, and the red wood, a species of cedar, the l)est wood in tl»e country. An agent of the Russian Government was liere last year. He c^me through via {^iberia from St. Petersburg, and visited nil the posts in Kam- .schatka, and on the northwest coast. Me got perti^ission irom ibe late General Figaroa (then commandant general of California) to put iip a large buikUng on the hsuy of St. Fnuicisco, ostensibly to be used as a granary to receive the wheat purchased in California ; but, in effect, it was intended as a block-house, and was to have been made defensible. The timber was got out, and now lies ready to be used. General Figaroa died, and his succeissorj " Chico,'' prohibited the Bussiqns' frosm erecting their blpc.k- how$e Mr. Rostrome(ino.ff readily granted npe permission for the party that accompanied me from the Columbia to land at Bodeig^. L'e also fHrniphqe Oolupqbia, he. ' In the mean jtijip^, X h^kve the .honor to remain your most obedient ser- vant, WILLIAM A. SLACLM. To the Hon. Jqbw Fprbyitih, StcTHs^^f 9f State. .iji.ji > ri —PIP [34] \ ! I : i , 20 (A.) OiiKuoN Territory, Wallametle Hettlimmt. Articles of agreement made and entered into this Vilh day nf Jnmiartjj in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hvndred and thirty-seven. Whereas we, the undersigned, settlers upon the Wallamette river, are fully convinced of the importance and necessity of having neat cattle of our own, in order successfully to carri^ on our farms, and gain n comfortable livelihood ; and whereas we find it impossible to purchase them here, as all the cattle in the country belong to the Hudson Bay Company, they refusing to sell them under any circumstances ; and as we believe that the possession of cattle would not only benefit us personally, but will materially benefit the whole settlement, we, the undersigned, do therefore agree— 1st. To avail ourselves of an offer of W. A. Slacum, Esq., of the United States Navy, to take passage in the American brig Loriot, Captain Ban- croft, free of charge, to proceed to California, to purchase cattle for our- selves and all our neighbors who choose to join us in this enterprise, either by accompanying us themselves or furnishing the means of purchasing cattle in California. 2d. We agree to contribute funds according to our means, making u common stock concern, subject to the following conditions : The expenses of all those who go to California are to be borne by the company, calcu- lating the time so employed at the rate of twenty dollars per month ; pro- visions likewise to be paid by the company. 3d. The wages of the men thus employed are to be calculated as so much money, and each one is to be credited accordingly ; and each and every member of the company shall have his portion of the cattle which may arrive safely at the Wallamette, there to be divided agreeably to capital and wages employed in the enterprise. 4th. All those who go for the purpose aforesaid, to California, hereby bind themselves to return to the Wallamette with the cattle, and to use their best endeavors to protect the same. 5th. We hereby agree that Ewing Young shall be leader of the party, and P. L. Edwards, treasurer, and that they shall be joint purchasers of the cattle. 6th. If any man desert the company in California, he shall forfeit all wages which he njay have earned. If, after the arrival of the party in California, any man shall choose to labor tor his personal benefit, he shall have liberty to do so ; provided that he shall be bound to invest the proceds of his labor in the common stock, and he shall not enter into any engagements which shiJl prevent him from leaving when required ; but such person shall not be entitled to any remimeration from the company for the time so em- ployed. EWING YOUNG, P, L. EDWARDS, JAMES A. O'NEAL, his . JOHN X TURNER, mark. ► I' I t21 [24] WEBLEY J. HAWKHURST, CALVIN TIBBETTS, LAWRENCE CARMICHAEL, his PIERRE X DEPAU, mark. GEORGE GAY, WILLIAM J. BAILEY, his EMAT X ERaUIETTE, mark. [84] 22 I a o n o 1^ O 0Q "I 1 I .3 la 4i <({ O 10 la id. c»< SSSSSS3^S«;;8:SgS^9S 2S2 ejjwweic. o» — — in ^ >M OiOD s> c»o» >0( ilii ;? m^SoimSco^S;o^^c • » SCO •fi S c C'S 3 •o o « > *'.!! (d w's jau3 ® ll« SOQua S ." S 60 bp O c.S -1 s — «^ *" I« c o &» •9 to p «> •<3t o-n .o •a 1 ■o a M I I u M O Si .^ tt> lOQ •a C 18 g. 23 C. [24J Wallambtte Sktti,emrnt, January 2, 1837. Gentlemen : Whereas we, the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, have learned with no conpmon interest, and with feelings of deep regret^ that you are now preparing a distillery icrt the purpose of manu- fiicturing ardent spirits to be sold in this vicinity ; and whereas we are most fully convinced that the vending of spirituous liquors will more effectually paralyse our efforts for the promotion of temperance than any other, or all other obstacles that can be thrown in our way ; and whereas we do feel a lively and intense interest in the success o( the temperance cause, believing, as we do, that the prosperity and interests of this rising iuid infant settlement will be materially affected by it, both as, respects their temporal and spiritual welfare ; and that the poor Indian, whose case is even now indescribably wretched, will be made far more so by the use of ardent spirits ; and whereas, gentlemen, you are not ignorant that the Inws of the United States prohibit American citizens from selling ardent spirits to Indians, under the penalty of a heavy fine; and, as you do not pretend to justify your enterprise, but urge pecuniary necessity as the reason of your procedure ; and as we do hot, cannot^ think it will be of pecuniary interest to prosecute this business, if, as you have determined to do, you discontinue it the present season ; and as we are not enemies, but friends, and do not wish, under existing circumstances, that you should sacrifice one single penny of the money you have already expended, we do, therefore, for the above, and various other reasons we could urge, Resolved, \st, That we, the undersigned, do most earnestly &n6 feelingly request you, gentlemen, to abandon your enterprise for ever. /iesolved, 2dly, That we will, and do hereby agree, to pay you |he sum you have already expended, if you will give us the avails of your expendi- uire, or deduct the value of them from the bill of expenses. Resolved, 3dly. That a committee of one be appointed to make known the views of this society, and present our request to Messrs. Young and Car- niichael. Resolved, \tkty, That we, the undersigned, will pay the sums severally affixed to oiu* names to Messrs. Young and Carmichael, on or lefore the 31st day of March, 1837, the better to enable them to give op their enter- prise. Resolved, hthly^ That the inhabitants of this settlement who are not attached to this society shall be invited to affix their names to this request, and to give what they feel free to give for the promotion of this object JOSEPH GERVAIS XAVIER !,A DESCOSTE DESPORTS MACKAY JOHN HORD JOHN TURNER CALVIN TIBBETS WINSLOW ANDERSON CHARLES PLANTE CHARLES RONDEAU JOSEPH DE LOR - ^ *> « s - . CHARLES ROE 238i9sk 6 bushels of 00 wheat. 8 00 4 00 4 00 G bushels of wheat. 4 4 00 00 [84] *i4 I I S. H. SMITH - . - - $4 0<> JAMES O'NIEL - - - - 6 (M) WEBLEY J. HAWKHURST - - 5 00 ANDRES PECOR, LOUIS FORCIA, ELISHA EZEKIGL, ETTIENNE LUCIA. The undersigned jointly promise to pay the balance, be the same raoie or le;ss. JASON LEE, DANIEL LEE, CYRUS SHEPPARD, P. S. EDWARDS. The undersigned are not members of the Oregon Temperance Society, but ccncur in urging the foregoing request. PIERRE DEPAU, A. ERdUETTE, JOHN BAPTISTE PERROULT, GEORGE GAY, P. BILLiaUE, CHARLES SCHE JTE, WILLIAM CARMING, T. J. HUBBARD - - - - $8 00 Messrs. Young' & Carmichael. Note. — ^T. J. Hubbard has since joined the temperance society. Wallamette, January 13, 1837. Gentlemen : Having taken into consideration your request to abolish our enterpriNe in manufacturing ardent spirits, we therefore doBgreetostop our proceedings for the present. But, gentlemen, the reasons for our first beginning such an undertaking were the innumerable difficulties and tyrannising oppression of the Hudson Bay Company here, under the absolute authority of Dr. John McLaughlin, who has treated us with more disdain than any American citizen of feeling can support. But as there are now some favorable circumstances occurred that we can get along without making spirituous liquors, we resolve to stop the manufacturing of it for the present. P. S. — Gentlemen, we do not feel it consistent with our feelings to re- ceive any recompense whatever fot our expenditure, but we aie thankful to the society for their offer. We remain, &c. vours, YOlfNG & CARMICHAEL. To the Oregon Temperance Society. 35 [24] TTiermometrical observatioiis taken at Fort Fa/icoaver, IcUkude 45° 37' fiorth. ' 1833, June, Minimum . A. M. 52° July, do. do. 47° August, do. do. 52° September, do. do. 48° ' October, do. do. 35° November, do. do. 30° December, do. do. 09° 1534, January, do. do. 06° February, do. do. 28° March, do. do. 30° April, do. 6 do. 32° May, do. do. 42° June, do. do. 49° July, do. do. 55° August, do. do. 49° September, do. do. 46° October, do. do. 36° November, do. do. 31° December, do. do. 18° 1535, January, do. do. ^^° February, do. do. 28® March, do. do. 31° 1836, April, do. 7 do. 40° May, do. do. 42° June, do. do. 4S° July, do. do. 65° August, do. do. 54° September, doi. 'io. 40° October, do. do. 41° November, do. do. 29° Decemlier, do. do. 16° 1837, January, do. do. 22° Maximum, do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. da do. do. do. .do. do. dov do. do. do. do, do. dov do. do. dot do. do. do. do. do. do. do. 12 M. do. do« do. 3 P. M. do. do» do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. dok do. do. do. do. do. do. 4 P. M. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. 660 89° 83° 81° 73° 62° 52° 43° 64° 66° 83° 86° 90° 1*3° 86° 86° 73° 61° 49° 52° 58° 61° 68° -81° 83° 97° 98° 86° 81° 61° 53° 48° Bon )in, led le- lul C. Amount of Mr. Slacnm's account, as made out at the Depart- ment of State .-->-. ^5,969 74 From which the following deductions have been made at the same, viz : • From item No. 14, one-third of the amount, l)eing for board, &c, of servant, not allowed - - $9 08 ♦ The servant abovu alluded to, and on whose account the above deductions arc made, I carried with me I'roiu this District lo Mexico.. ULs expenses were only charged to the Gk)v- cruiueiit from tiie coiiunencemcnt of my journey from the wepartment of State, shows ; and the benefit that will result to the United States from that measure alone, will be, nny is, at this moment, more than ten times equivalent to all the expenses in- curred in my journey. From the 1st day of June, 1836, when my private affairs were closed in Guaymas, I devoted myself to the duty assigned me ; wholly regardless of ray private interest, which would have led me to the capital of Mexico, to prosecute, in person, the claim I hold against that Government. (See my letter of October 10th, from San Bias.) In conclusion, 1 beg leave most respectfully to remark, that inasmnch as I have paid on the account of the Government of the United States in specie, which I carried with me at my own risk, it seems to be but f«ir tlmtl should he re-iii(ibursed in the same currency, to the full amount of my account. Witii sentiments of the highest respect, I am your mosi obedient setrvant, Wll^JUIAM A. ^LACUM. To the Hon. John Forsyth, No. 7. Al^HX»AZ»0|tttA. Sir : In submitting this acoount for the actual expmses Ihave paid in |;old>and>ailv&r, on account of the Government of the United States, Iw»sh It to be distinctly understood, that, from June, 1836, when Iclosed my pri- vate affairs as nearly as I could in Guaymas, I devoted all my time and energies to execute the commission intrusted to me, to the postponement of my plivote intereist, w^di would have led me to the city of Mexico, to urae in psrson the claim I hold against thdt Government, for about' 1(^000 dollars. 31 [24 1 ih as r;ie, [mtl niv m I distinctly state, likewise, that I had no private business ut the Sandwich islands, or elsewhere, to attend to, after June, 1836, when I commenced my journey towards the Columbia rii er from Lower CaUfoi-niu. When I failed in getting to the Columbia by land from Lower California, (see my letters of June and July, from Guaymas,) I availed myself of the only alternative, namely, that of goinof to the Sandwich islands, to procure a vessel to take raie into the river ; my anxiety to proceed caused me to take up a small ves- sel of 20 tons, to perform a voyage of 3,()t>0 miles. Finding on examination that this vessel was not sea-worthy, i chartered another even smaller, and after being out 19 days, and nearly entirely wrecked, I was compelled to abandon this vessel, and take passage in ihe English barque Falcon for the Sandwich islands, where I chartered the Loriot, and proceeded to the Co- lumbia river. Hence has arisen the charges for Joven Teresa, and the Lo- retano, (see my letter from Mazatlan, of July, 1836,) the charges for cloth- ing, blankets, &c. were as necessary for my use, to withstand the rigor of the climate, exposed as I was, as to the arms which I carried witli me at my own expense. Part of the clothing I g-ve to the Indians for services rendered. 1 took with me gold and silver at my o\»|i risk, and which was calculated to increase the dangers of the journey : these were neither few n»r light. I have made presents of arms, &,c. to persons who have been civil to me, and Imve acttially expended, in this way, over $200. I have; not charged these items in my account, nor is there any charge for interest, because I have reasonably thought that the arduous duty I have performed would receive the attention of the Executive of the United States. With great respect, I remain, WILLIAM A. SLACUM. To the honorable John Forsyth, iSecretari/ of State, Washington, No. 8. EXTRACT- Falcon, ovi' Sax Bla§, October 10/A, 1836. My dkar Stu : 1 have much pleasure in acknowledging the receipt of your favor of the 20th, just from Mexico. ' I have requested my friends, Messrs. Barron, P^orbes, df. Co. to forward to you the drafts on the custom-house at Guaymas, a>id have to beg the favor of your doing all you can to get the claim adjusted. I am compelled to proceed, on duty for the Government, to the Oregon, else I should hasten to Mexico, to endeavor to make some settlement or this, to me, important claim. I put the greatest trust in your getting the claim acknowledged at once, from its apparent equity. Yours most truly, WILLIAM A. SLACUM. To I*owhattan Ellis, Esq. . Mexico.