rise and sunset would he six hours, and in the other nine hours long. Tin- single sentence in ttie Saga, or half sentence, on which the decision of the (|ucsti(Mi is balanced, is this: "The sun shines there on eykt and dagmal on the shortest day of the year." points of time, not /lours. To find this the astronomer Hishop Thorlaciiis was iiistrurted in nl -irvr the time of suniiM- •nnd sunset at Rcykholt on the first Saturday occurring l^'twccn the iith and the 17th of Octoher. One was found to occur at lialf-past seven in the morning, and the otlier at MJiBmi [II »Miii "The \iir«if,'i:ins wlui first went ovlt to Iculanil were sprunf; from soiiie of the iiuist distiiij;iiisheil families in the l.iiid of their nativity. . . . 'I'heir ])re(lonilnant character is that of unsuspecting frankness, pious contentment, and a steady liveliness of temperament, com- bined with a strength of intellect and aruteness of mind seldom to be met with in other parts of the world. I'lKir /,iii!;iiiij,'c; ilras, and mode of life han km inviiiiabl} the same during a period of nine centuries." "h,u:i ::: o^l ";:; u' l!:"l t, «.u>c ,l.l n..es of ...ee .>ivi,ion, ..«rec wi.h ...o,e o. th. »ub-.l.v ,,on ot one , r ^^^ „,,,.urin;4 time by the 5unN p.^age over :::r Sr^L^l t :!;.. as L as .Hu.^M. whc. U^. n.nUe.o„ W.,... .hat^ountry: " m on 1i.U in use was the natural horizon of each township. .livi,ie,l into c^ht equal .art . - I.V m^unt^in Ukl -'- -^^ -- -'-"^-^ conveniently, and by pyramids of stone where natural nu.U, ' I li.il il oiiiits .It .1 MiiT hour 111 Miiillicrn N'lrw.iv sii|i|i'iris ilif i \\\u luvn al I'rnics^nr Sturm tli.U Ihc tituc v.iriis with the l.ititude llui tlic Liliimli' uf NULiMs, of soutliern IclUihI, and Kriks- (j<>rd in (Irccnl.md were all included willdn two or tliri'i- degrees. • ViijfiiMon «ay«: " Tlie»e iLivnutrki .ire traclitii>n.\l on every farm ; anil many uf lliiMii, no doubt, clali' from the rarlint srtttrr^. AmRrimison confirms thi^ statement. It wan the immemorial practice in Norway. The precise latitude indicated In- the shortest day of nine- liours. as accepted by Rafn, was 4' ^4 '« • !<»' t'^^ precession of the equinoxes in the interval since Leif's tin.e has been calnihtrd (see paper by Storm); and it results in making the site to which Leifs observation applies to ... _, whicli it is safe to say includes only uliiit was rcj^ardcd by instructors as established geographical truth, occius the following: — ' Corrected for precession of tin- c(|iiinoxc» and refraction, by Ntr. Coelinuyden, of Copcnh.i^en. ' Aniicjiiiiates American*, p. jgj. r ;? ' tf ' !ll!!. ' !Lg!l ' .. (txWi'aloaj LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Outlook from near the Site of Leifs Houses Frontispiece. Page Vineland of I.eif Erikson i« Length of Shortest Day 31 Outline of Coast from Cape Farewell, Oreenland, southward jg Region of Vineland, between Cape Ann and Cape Cod, — folding sheet of Maps . .28-29 Vineland of I.eif between Cape Ar.n and Cape Cod, — sheet of Maps . . . .29-30 Flat Rocks on Kast Coast of Newfoundland (Helluland), near St. Johns .... 30 C'aptain James Cook's Map (1775) 31 Ilydrographic Chart of Fog lianks J2 Nova Scoti.i, Admiralty Chart ^t^ ('osa's Map (1500) .►, Ruysch's Map (1507) ., Hendricxsen's Map (1614-1616), Dutch Archives 1, Southac's Map (1694-1734) ,. Local Map of Cape Cod Peninsula e,^ Detailfd Maj) of Cape Cod Peninsula of Co.ist Snr\'ey ei Tracings, showing Archipelago in Forty-third Degree 53 Was there a City of Nortimbega in the Forty-third Degree, — sheet of Maps. . . 54 .Mlefonsce and the Two Cape Bretons, — sheet of Maps eg Vineland Hasin C,- Coast Survey, the C.umet and Plymouth 71-72 I^eiPs huulfall on Cape Cod and Route to Site of his Houses on the Charles River 7^-74 Remalu>; of Ilrik's House at Rrattahliil, Circenland -, Fiiuivalents of the River ( harles, — sheet of fourteen Maps 76-77 Chamjilain's Majis of Kast Coast of Cape Cod, against Chatham and Nauset Harbor . . 78 Present View of Straumil a-.id Straumfjord, against Chatham, C:ape Cod .... 79 •xsemi'sm, ■mmr.sr.i^: LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 2 Page Birch-bark Canoe and Esquimaux Skin-boat Folding Map of Charles River ~ '' Equivalents between Cape Ann and Cape Cod 90-91 Boston Back Bay and Harbor 9^-93 Northmen's Landing and Settlement 93-94 Photograph of traces of Leifs House and Charles River 95 Photograi)h of conceived Site and traces of Thorfinn's Long House 95 Photograph of traces of Thorfinn's House 9 Photograph of Fish-pit and Thorfinn's Landing 9 Photograph of Site of Huts ^^ Stone Walls of Ancient Norumbega, at Watertown, - Photographs by Miss Cornelia Horsford '°^ Map of Ortelius. .57°; Solis, ,598; and Botero, ,603, - showing Norumbega and Norvega (Norway), Carenas and the Rio Crande, Claudia and Nova Francia, all in the same degree of latitude with Boston '° Greenland, region about Eriksfjonl and Leifs Home at Brattahlid "« Notf. -m THE RF.AnF,R.-Some of the Illustrations may seem misplaced; but they were needed at different points. My wish has been to place in accessible form as much of ,he material collected and used by me as I might venture to insert, with less regard to the criticism than to the ser^•ice of the reader. PREFACE. TN my address at the unveiling of the statue to Leif Erikson in Boston, Oct. 29, 1887, I sketched an outline of the evidence that the Vineland of the Northmen was in southeastern New England. In 1889, under the title of " The Problem of the Northmen," I gave, in a letter to the President of the American Geographical Society, an out- line of the Discovery of the Site of Leif's Houses in Vineland, speaking of it as the fulfilment of a prediction. Later, in the same year, on the occasion of the completion of a commemorative Tower, at the mouth of Stony Brook, I communicated to the Geographical Society the Discovery of the Ancient City of Norumbega. The detailed evidences of the accuracy of my later deduction have just been published in a letter to President Daly, entitled " The Defences of Norumbega." The present paper points out the Landfall of Leif on Cape Cod, and the site of the houses he built in Vineland ; discusses the exploration of the Charles River by Thorwald, the site of his wreck, where he set up his old keel, — Kjalarnes (Cape Cod) ; and his burial- place, — Krossa-ness (the Gurnet); and indicates the locality of Straum- fjord (Chatham), the southernmost point reached by Thorfinn. The literature of the subject has been recently enriched by an elabo- rate paper from the pen of Prof. Gustav Storm, of Christiania. It gives a recast of the evidence of the trustworthiness of the Sagas. The author attaches little significance to the part played by Bjarni and Thor- wald in the identification of the region of Vineland, does not attempt the Landfall of Leif nor the site of his houses, and follows with a presen- 4 PREFACE. tation of the evidence that Newfoundland was Markland, and Nova Scotia was Vineland. The work well illustrates the inherent difficulties of the problem even to a Scandinavian scholar, and the great patience and care with which through many years Professor Storm has pursued it. This learned author, like Forster,' seems to have been repelled by the manifold repetitions and defective sequences in the relations preserved under the head of Thorfinn's Sagas. The cargoes of selected wood {m'dsurr) shipped to Greenland ; the details of topography and hydrography ; the islands observed ; the alternating shallows at the mouth of the river flowing through a lake to the sea ; the Hop (a small landlocked bay, salt at flood tide and fresh at ebb), on the shore of which and in the same house Leif, Thorwald, Thorfinn, and Freydis successively dwelt ; the fish-pits, the sand-beaches, the muddy banks of the river, — all are alike of relatively less interest to Forster, Malte-Brun, Laing,^ and Storm. Had it fallen to their lot, ;icquainted as they were with the Vineland Sagas, to pass a lifetime in the territory where the terms of the Sagas might apply and their applicability be tested, — something the record of which would be sought for in vain in books, because a book cannot contain the record of what has not been found, — the problem would doubtless long since have been solved. More than fifty years ago, the historian George Bancroft, after such examination of the subject as to him then seemed possible, left it con- ceivable that the Northmen may have reached the shores between Belle Isle and Hudson's Straits ; and this notion is adopted by Justin Win- sor, the editor of " The Narrative and Critical History of America,"* after a lecent elaborate collocation of the literature of the subject. Referring to Mr. Bancroft's statement that " Scandinavians may have reached the shores of Labrador; the soil of the United States has not ' Mr. J. R. Forster, author of " Hisloirc des Ddcouverlcs et des Voyages fails dans Ic Nord. Paris. MDCCI. XXXVIII." ' Samuel Lainj;. Ksq., transLitor from the Icelandic of the llcimskringla. London, 1.S44. » Vol. i. p. 93. 1S89. PREFACE. 5 one vestige of their presence," — Mr. Winsor says it "is as /rue now as when first wriiten." Rev. Edmund F. Slafter, D. D., the careful editor of " Beamish's Trans- lation of the Vineland Sagas,"* in the publications of the Prince Society, says in his Introduction (page ii): — "The ground has been carefully surveyed, and the conclusion has been reached that no remains are to be found on the coast of America that can be traced to the visits of the Northmen in the tenth century." The Committee appointed by the Massachusetts Historical Society to investigate the problem of the Northmen give the following as, in the judgment of the Corresponding Secretary, " the result of the best historical criticism" : '^ — " There is the same sort of reason for believing in Leif Erikson that there is for believing in the existence of Agamemnon. They are both traditions accepted by the later writers ; but there is no more reason for regarding as true the details related about his discoveries than there is for accepting as historical truth the narrative contained in the Homeric poems." These authorities seem to have written under the impression that the evidence, if there be any, of the presence of the Northmen at any par- ticular point on the New England coast might be found in print. As they have failed to find it, they have been led to the conviction that such evidence cannot be found.' The problem of the Northmen in America has been studied for the most part, and necessarily, in libraries. It was at one time thoucht to ' Voynfies of the Northmen to America. 1877. p. It. ' I'roceedinjis of tlie M.issachusetts Ilistoric.il Society, December, 1887; also N.irrative and Critical History of America, vol. i. p. 98. ' I'rof. Henry Mitchell, a lifelonp officer of the United -States Coast Survey, professionally familiar with llie outline of oiir Kastcrn shores, in a paper which I have been permitted to see, — written many years a','0, and read be''nre .1 social gatlierins;. but not printed, — expressed the conviction, after a care- ful sillily of the S.aijas that l.eif's Landfall was on Cape Cod, .and Vineland the west sliore of Cape Cod Hay. Tliis was the result of what m.ay be reg.arded as the earliest study of the Siigas in their application to the actual Atlantic coast. PREFACE. be a question mainly, if not solely, of textual interpretation. From the time of Torfasus — who, in 1 705, first called attention to the Sagas telling of the discovery in 1000 of America by Northmen — the determina- tion of the places of their Landfall and settlement has been believed to rest on the meaning of a single Old Norse word, eyktarstad, since this and the sentence in which it occurred in the Saga of Eirik Raude (Erik the Red) might, if rightly understood, give the latitude of Vineland. It will be seen, in the progress of the present paper, that this meaning still plays a most important part as a coincident test in the solution of the problem. Such a problem must be worked out, ultimately, in \\\tjield. It must be solved by the juxtaposition of the descriptive terms of the Sagas con- taining the record of the discovery with the observed geography, in- cluding tiie latitude and longitude, the topography and hydrography, the geology and natural history of the regions assumed to have been visited and occupied, and by the study of the logs of the early Norse navigators as left us in the Sagas. To all this must be added the terminology of local names, and the ethnology of the region since the advent of the Northmen. Since the days of Rafn, Agassiz has found tha region I have assigned to the early occupancy of the Northmen to be a vast area of countless moraines, without which there could have been no salient of Cape Cod. Bache and Mitchell and Davis of the Coast Survey have determined the curves and currents, tides and soundings of our coast to the British lines, and learned much of the laws that govern the changing banks. The Admiralty charts of British North America and careful explorations by compe^ nt men have given us the coast-lines from Cape Sable along Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the shores of Labrador to Cape Chudlcigh. All these unite to enable us to see where the Vine- land of the Sagas was possible and where it was impossible. The study of the aboriginal languages in connection with the territorial limits of Indian tribes has come to be felt, as it was not earlier, to be a factor in PREFACE. 7 the solution of geographical problems. Photography has appeared to make it possible for a student to command the scenery, the maps and charts, and the ancient geographical manuscripts of the world. Earlier it was not so easy as it now is to visit Norway, study its instructive topogra- phy, and become acquainted with the usages of the people from whom the enterprising Northmen of ancient Iceland went out ; or, by personal in- spection, to become familiar with the features of our own New England coast. It is only within comparatively recent times that southern Green- land has been the subject of careful study by scientific men of Sweden, Denmark, and Nor.iav. They have brought to light the remains of churches and dwellings and cemeteries of the Northmen of the time of Eirik Raude and the centuries that followed immediately after. Norden- skjbld has given us, among many other most interesting pictures, photo- graphs of the possible remains of Leif's paternal mansion, — Brattahlid, — in which were celebrated the nuptials of Thorfinn Karlsefni and Gudrid. Tlie more I have studied the Saga of Eirik Raude the more pro- foundly have I become impressed with the fidelity and trustworthiness of the memories that were held in tradition, and finally taken down and preserved on the introduction of the art of writing. I have before me, I believe, the chief sources of our knowledge of the early discovery of Vineland. But it seemed to me desirable to discuss the individual renderings of the Sagas, one by one ; and so I have had made, at my side as it were, a new translation of the Summary of the Vineland Sagas in Peringskjold's Heimskringla. This summary — tlie so-called interpolation into the life of Olaf Tryggvasson — seems a res7ime of the Vineland Sagas. Some details are omitted, which other relations supply. The whole expedition to Straum- fjord, except the supply of food from the castaway whale (the scene of which seems to be misplaced), is wanting, — as is also the account of the profusion of ducks' eggs^ on Monomoy; the occurrence of great islands before the mouth of Charles River (the Brevsters and the others); ' See Xotes in Appendix. SE 8 PREFACE. the exploration of the river by Thorwald during the summer after the first winter, and the general features of the Charles ; the shallows at the entrance of the river to the Back Bay below the Brookline bridge ; vari- ous topographical features and bearings that enable one to identify im- portant localities; and many other particulars, such as the occurrence of young corn-plants at the time of fish-spawning, the fish-pits, some of the visits of the Skrai'lings, and certain incidents of the battle in which Freydis took part. But the continuity of the story, embracing the prin- cipal and more important events, — the work of one Saga man, principally of compilation, — forced upon me the desirability of a new translation, for which a rare opportunity by a thoroughly educated native Icelander pre- sented itself. Mr. Arngrimsson has made at my instance a fresh rendering of the original Norse, as given in Peringskjbld. To this I have only ventured to add from the translations of the other Sagas, by different persons on different ships at different times, such fragments in the form of notes as help to fill out the portraits of the voyages and experiences, and as have enabled me to realize to myself the story in its proper sequences. That others may enjoy the fruits of this work, I print them in con- nection with the Peringskjold Saga in the Appendix. To this I have added a part of the so-called Thorfinn Sagas, from the translation made under the supervision of Rev. Dr. De Costa, and contained in his " Pre- Columbian Discovery of America." Of the accuracy of the picture I have produced for study there can be no doubt, on looking at the results at which I have arrived. They clear up the misapprehensions that have arisen since the Northmen came, and make intelligible the relations of Verrazano, Gomez, Parmcnticr, Alle- fonsce, Thevet, Ramusio, David Ingram, John Dee, Haki.'yt, Sir Hum- phrey Gilbert, Champlain, Lescarbot, and others, and the cartography of a century and more, stamped with the name Nokumiiega. It has seemed to me well to submit a considerable selection of the pictures, maps, charts, cuts, photographs, etc., which have served in my PREFACE. 9 research, along with my exposition of the old story of the Sagas. They may enable those interested in the subject better to see upon what my con- victions rest ; and they may lend assistance in lines of inquiry which I have not pursued, and so contribute to the aid of others in the study of the early history of this coast region. My purpose in the paper that follows is mainly to demonstrate beyond the reach of question the locality of Leif's Landfall and the site of his houses in Vineland. To the officers of the United States Coast Survey and Hydrographical Bureau at Washington I am greatly indebted for authoritative maps, charts, and records. The City Government of Cambridge has given me the kind co-operation of the office of the City Engineer in the surveys of the region of Charles River and in the production of maps. The priceless collection of maps and charts of the late J. Carson Brevoort relating to the Cartogra- phy of New England has long been drawn upon by me for photographic copies, and is now, as a whole, in my possession. I have also had the loan of the collections of maps of the late Mr. S. L. M. Barlow, of New York, for utmost freedom in photographic copying, of which I have taken full advantage, especially in all the maps illustrating the beginnings of New France. From the Rev. Dr. B. F. De Costa I have the original tra- cings of the map of Hieronymus Verrazano of 1529, of that of William de Teste, and also of John Rotz ; of the New England portions of the Molyneux Globe and also of the Leno.x Globe, and the precious photo- graphic negatives of Maiollo's map of 1 524-1 527 from the Ambrosian Library at Milan. The Leno.x, John Carter Ii.own, American Geographical Society, Con- gressional, Boston Public, Athenasum, and American Academy libraries, and, above all, the Harvard College Library have given me co-operation on every hand. To Baron Nordenskjold of Stockholm, M. Gaffarel of Dijon, M. Beauvois of Colberon, Cote d'Or, I am indebted for their publications in fields of labor connected with the Northmen. I have most valuable works from the library of the late Dr. Worsaae, of Copenhagen, relating to lO TREFACE. Vineland. I have also possessed myself, in the publications of the Royal Geographical Society of Denmark, of copies of a considerable number of ancient maps of Danish and Icelandic authorities. The Bibliotheque Nationalo of Paris has, through the co-operation of Miss Healy, the daughter of the artist, furnished me with photographs of specific por- tions of the manuscripts and of original pen-and-ink sketches relating to the American coast, by Allcfonsce, the pilot of Roberval.* I have been so fortunate as to secure a perfect copy of Thevet's " Cosmographie " of 1575- Photographs, sketches, and original drawings of various intercstmg points have been furnished me by Miss Cornelia Horsford. To Mr. Samuel Adams Drake, the historian, I am indebted for photographs and maps of the coast of Newfoundland. All these have made it possible to test the relations of the Sagas by methods, — in some respects quite new. I may not forget to acknowledge the varied services of Mr. Thomas J. Kiernan of Harvard College Library, and of Mr. George Davis of the Cambridge City Engineer's office. ' The efforts that resulted in giving to me these precious aljsolute f.u-similes have led to the extension of the service to students of any ancient manuscripts in the archives of the L.br.iry, upcn payment of the cost. DESCRIPTIVE NORSE WORDS EMPLOYED IN THE SAGAS OF ERIK THE RED AND OF THORFINN. Budir, — Booths ; temporary abodes, less substantial than permanent dwellings ; as, booths at a fair. Furdustrand, — From furda, spectre, and strand, a shore : furdustrandir, spectral or wonder- ful strands; applying to a long sand-beach, convex to the sea, in sailing past which new shore is constantly entering on the horizon before and vanishing behind. Possibly, also, because of the appearance of mirage ; also because it was so long sailing past it, a curve I of constantly increasing radius. Helluland, or Helleland, — Slate-rock, fissile, flat-stone, or broad-stone land. Authority,— educated Norwegians (Vigfusson). HoU, — Contracted from hvdil, hill or hillock (Vigfusson). Ulks-water (Patterdale, England) has the same root. Hdp, — A small landlocked bay, or inlet, connected with the sea so as to be salt at flood tide and fresh at ebb (Vigfusson)." Name given by Thorfinn to the lake through which a river flowed to the sea ; also applied to the country surrounding the lake." Husa-snotrn, — House-scales for weighing. Swedish wag, Latin statemm ligneam, wooden scale-pan (Peringskjold). * Old Norse Dictionary, p. 281. ■^mp,n. (Anglo-Saxon /r/ Scottish //o/,-, ,»oty« ; pcrlmps connected with A.-S hop English hoop, with reference to a curved or circular form.) .•/ .„,/„// laudlocked bay, or inlet, connected with the sea so as to be salt at flood and fresli at ebli Frcqiu-nt in niodcrn usage. The trutlifiilness of the description, In tlie iise of the single word hdp applied to the lower Charles IS worthy of notice. At Hood the w.itcr in the great expansion c.illed the liack Hay (the " lake " of I eif ) rises some ten to twelve feet, and backs up the river proper to the fall at Watertown, making at Mood a salt-water balh.ng-resort near (-.erry's Landing (at the site of Leifs houses), and overspreading all the me,idows with salt water: while at ebb the fresh w.iter, now ten or twelve feet lower in the narrow and shallow channel of the river proper, is prolonged into the area of the Hack liay, through which the river Hows into the sea. '^ There is another division of the definition of hdp by Vigfusson (ist ed. ii. 3R7): "A local name, HSp, Hops-OS, Vestr-hop I.andr: in England, local names, as Stanhope, Easthope (Kemble's Dipl.); 13 UESCRll'TlVE NORSE WORDS, ETC. Hveiti-ax, — llvciti, wheat, and ax, car-of-corn (Vigfussoii)- Skeat says the word wheat is derived from a Teutonic root wliich means ?<'////c', and qualifies the color of the (lour made from the grain, kernel, or corn of whatever kind. JhiUir is tvhite, as applied to the Wiiile River in Iceland (Henderson). H.aving in mind the general law of aboriginal languages, that names are descriptive of the objects to which they are attached, Hveiti-ax would be white ear-flf-ciirn. JIvciti qualitied the color of the aggregation of kernels on the spike. Indian corn, if white, ailmits of such a descriptive name. Kernels, up to the time of ripening, are white. In ripening, some varieties take on color. If the ear of Indian corn was green, that is, unripe, when first observed, it was white. ^alarnes, — From kjolr, keel, and nacs,^ nose. Kjalar is the genitive. Kjalar-nes, the name of the north end of Cape Cod, — the ness of the Keel (Tliorw.dd and Thorfinn). Merriam's map of about the end of the sixteenth century has /'. {P. ^ Promonto- rium) Coaranes, probably from i.atives, the offspring of mixed parentage. Lok gives Caremis, Mercitor C. lie Arenas, Ch.implain Cape lilam\ Gosnold Cape Coii, to the same point. Krossa-nes, — From krossa, to inark with a cross, and nes, a promontory (Vigfusson). Thorwald directed crosses to be set up at his grave. Vallard, on his map of 1543, recog- nised the Krossa-nes in his Cap de Croix, near C. de Arenas. Harkland, — Primarily a boundary ; wooded land, and also open field ; land inviting to settlement (Norwegians. Danes, and Swedes ; also Vigfusson). Hater, — Mdsur-:^>nosurr, "spot wood;" curly maple; decorative wood ; any marbled or veined wood (see Vigfusson ; Beamish, Prince Society's Ed., p. 68). Also burr, burl, borl, or warty outgrowth on oak, ash, birch, and other trees. Mosur ^=.0\i\ High German knorrigcr auswuchs. 'Pough and decorative ; used to make platters, bowls, chalices, scale-pans, cups, and maces. M asur, — a as in fate. Elleshoop in Ilolstoin (rirein) ; Kinttiope, St. Afaif^anl's hope, <:iQ.,\n Orkney." The name has no equivalent in our lannu.^^;e, and taken in connection with tlie phrase a riTer Jlowiiit; through a /iii-e into the sea. and the statement in the Sa^as th.it the lake was so shallow at ebb tiile that vessels could not enter the river above (Cottage Kami station) to .sail up except at flood, it presents a picture that can scarcely lie matched for clearness and conipUteness. What was true in the year rooo is true to-day. What was a hdp. an inlet, a landlocked bay, alternately deep enough to (loat sea-going vessels and shallow enough to ground tliem at the mouth of die river in the upper part, alternately .salt and fresh, was not more true nine hundred years ago than it is to-day. The map which I have compiled, compared witli that published at \'alladolid iu i5i>S. which gives the site of the Norwegian colony on tlie Kio Crande (the Charles), may be studied in this connection and with the S.agas. \'errazano (1524) described this like, in his letter to the King, as "among sm.all hills, and as three leagues around, and connected by a river half a league long with the sea " His map shows the mouth of the river .Anguilemc, entering from above the lake. ' Aaes. or ness, or nes, nose. DESCRIPTIVE NORSE WORDS, ETC. u SkrOBUngi, Skraellngjar, — Ski-ill, a mob (Vigfusson; ; applied to the great crowd of Indians in tlicir canoes and in tlieir eager traffic; as, " Tlie wliole water looked as if sprinkled with cinders" (Smith), or "sown with coal" (Beamish). Primarily, it does not mean the Indians, much less the Esquimaux; rather the lowest of men, hideous in personal appearance. It means also a mob, a disorderly crowd without a leader. The first party, in nine skin-boats (birch-bark canoes) were not called Skrailings in the Saga ; they were not numerous enough to be called a mob, and were too distant to be distinctly seen. Stranmey, Straumb, — From Unumr, stream, race, or tide, and o or oe, island. It applies at Chatham, the " heel " of Cape Cod, to a long narrow beach parallel to the shore, between which and the mainland, and outside as well, the tide is visible and strong. Straumgard, — From straumr, current, and ffird, sound, tidal frith, oblong bay or channel, in which the tidal current is noticeable; a channel extending Mn-//^'//, — that is, w/ a cul-de-sac. Vinland, — Named from its productions, Winland (or Vineland), — Leif ; Adam of Bremen. THE LANDFALL OF LFIF ERIKSON i 'sy^ VINLAND OF LEIF ERIKSON. INCLUDING THE RIVER, FORT AND CITY OF NORUMBEGA. THE HOP OF THORFINN, (the ancient Boston Back Bay) AND THE ADJACENT COAST. AS DETERMINED BY EbfH Norton Horsford. o s i-4^ ^^^ "-^-^sr^^^-^, Watstt Jfixritr \ C O HA S S E T .^''ici. H I :N G II A M A I N T k E E :WEYMO)VTH ' J S C I T l^ .r V^ ;' „.^^^ '','j '\ \ " r'%\ 1. A ii A 7 K V 4^ \f% ^A y>. / ^~., r H :m-^ ) I Jl I> i >T If ,J2ss«iin— ^ A 41j«t Akiiww4 >/ o ^^ a '« ■j-f'**.""'^ /< 7 fc. "!:^: y tSri^ II ..r >£- i/f'iMniQ -B-E- ' r I 1 % o — ^^ *^. «i»-^ THE LANDFALL A CCEPTING the discovery of America by Northmen about a. d icoo, — doubted only by those who liave not liad the leisure and oppor- tunity patiently to examine the evidence bearing upon the subject, — and recognizing it as settled, that somewhere within a fortnight's sail to the southwest of Greenland there must be the Vineland of Leif, so long the theme of fireside story, of tradition, of record in the Sagas, in the relation of Adam of Bremen, and in the church archives touching the departure of Bishop Erik Gnupsson ' to Vineland, — the question is one, not of the reality of discovery, but of locality. To Humboldt, its ])lace was between Boston and New York. Accord'- ing to Rafn, Leif Erikson set up his houses — the earliest Norse dwellings in New England — on the shores of Narragansett Bay. The following paper rests on the conviction that Leif did not go to the south of Cape Cod, but built his houses within the limits of the present city of Cam- bridge, on the banks of the river Charles, not far from its entrance into Massachusetts Bay, at Boston. How can we find Where Leik eirst made Land? Geographical position is expressed in terms of latitude and longitude, — that is, in distance counted in degrees and fractions from the equator toward the pole, and in distance in degrees and fractions from an accepted meridian crossing this line at right angles. For example, Cambridge Observatory is so many degrees, minutes, and seconds of latitude from the equator; and ' The story of the ;ippoinlnipnt of liisliop Erik I'psi (Gmipssnn) to missionnry service in Vine- land in 1121 is .1 matter of well-known rccoril, preserved in tlie archives of the Vatican. ^^ -B--« Vt' i8 rut: landfai.i. ok i.kit erikson, so many degrees of longitude, or hours and fractions, west from the Ob- servatory at Grecnwicii, England : furnished with these terms and a mod- ern globe, we at once find the site of the Cambridge Observatory. This is an easy task. With our geograpliical situation along a nortli and south ocean shore, whicli substantially replaces the longitude, we have but one term — the latitude — to find. Hut the problem of the discovery by North- men is one reaching back to times when there was no (Ireeinvich Obser- vatory, and to people who had no written language ; who knew little or nothing of the equator or of globes, and to whonj the oceanic world was the North Atlantic. Even with the latitude only to ascertain, one wonders how there could have been left to us a record of the discovered region that might be interpreted, with precision, after nine hundred years. Bearing upon this question, ih ;e are, in the Icelandic History of the i)iscovery of America — the \'ineland Sagas — hints of the coast-line and topography, of the vegetation, animal life, climate, the length of the shortest day of the year, the logs of the ships, and the diaries, more or less com- plete, of the chief persons connected with the Landfall and colonization nf V'ineland. .All these contribute to the determination of the latitude. Besides the writers who have found evidence of the presence of the Northmen in Massachusetts and Rhnde Island, there have long been learned men who held to the notion that VMneland should be sought farther north. Of the region-- to which V'ineland has been assigned by authorities that accept the fact of the discovery, but are not agreed as to its latitude, the extremes are the coast of Labrador from Cape Chudleigh — the entrance to Hudson's Straits — to Belle Isle, and the coast of south- eastern New England. These two regions are greatly contrasted in their topography and hydrography. They are unlike in their relative maximum growth of trees and shrubbery. The coast of Labrador has no beaches, no forests, — only stunted birches, low pines (evergreen, coniferous trees), and shrubbery, — no meadows, and little or no arable land; but it h.is bold, rocky shores, and lofty mountains, and long Arctic winters, and ice-bound coasts for more ^4 AND SITK OK HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 19 than half the year, while southeastern New England has extensive beaches, forests, meadows, land that may be cultivated, low mountains only, — or hills of a few hundred feet, — winters of moderate duration, and not infre- quently the ground for considerable periods quite free from snow, while the larger harbors are rarely frozen over. Vegetation. Beside these more general contrasts, there arc, or were, in the field of vegetation two special ones of great significance. In Vineland, wherever that may have been, Indian corn (maize) grew wild, — solved itself , as the stories of the discovery (the Northern Sagas) say. (Beamish.) It was called "inayes, like Virginia w/irat," by Capt. Jdlin Smith, and " Indian wheat" by De Soto. Indian corn {Zia Mays) is indigenous in America, and ripens under favorable circiinistances. It was found here by the Spaniards : Coronado ate of it at Zufti in 1 537-1 540; De Soto found it in 1541 in our present Gulf States. In south- eastern New England it ripens : Champlain found it along our coast in 1604-5 ; Capt. John Smith saw it growing on the islands in Hoston harbor in 1614; the Pilgrims found it near Provincetown in 1620 ; Iligginson writes of its having been planted and growing well in 1629, Winthrop was glad to purchase it of Indians in 1630. In Labrador Indian corn does not ripen ; it cannot, of course, grow toild. Why ? Unripe seeds do not germinate. Again, in the Vincland of the Northmen, according to the descriptions of the country given in the Sagas, f;rctpes grew ivild. and were found in great abundance. Hence the name of the country, — Vineiand. Grapes ^owW/// in southeastern New England. Grapes do not grow in Labrador. The first point, then, so far as vegetation is concerned, is that Labrador could not have been the Vineiand wlierc forests prevailed, and where corn and grapes greio ivild. Tlie second point is, that what is now southeastern New England might have held tlie Vineiand of the Northmen, so far as \.\\^ forests and grapes and corn are concerned. ao THE LANDFAI.I. OK I.KII KKIKSUN, Climate. On tlie subject of climate as inHucnciug vegetation there is other evidence. Opposite Greenland [th.nt is in Labrador] there are such hard frosts tliat il is not habitable, so far as is known. — IcfUuuiic Sthool History; Autie preach to the Indians all this winter." The winter of 1774 1775 was mild. There was plougliing. and the peach-trees were in Mossom on the loth of .•Vpril. —the day of the battle of Lexington. The mean temperature of the winters for iiinrieen years just just, a.s taken from the I'nited States Signal Service Station of Boston, has been for Oecember. 30 i' Kah. ; January, 20.2i Kebruary, 27.7'; March, 33 7 , — an average for the four months of 29.5'. ?M i-*."!. ,.«***' ,u" iIWMMlCTGxznr' ' •♦^ ."«!*•.":!!' ■«<-,ai.i «*♦» r ?* r-- »«. •-!. M. 3». ■ tt, ak « 4> -a, w w. »t. %. i ""'»*»f i"^ 1 -'' ■ ■*■ , rt ■'» "^■' i i *:• ii^^j-'- i A -.v^ i9 / *<-tr -^.: (."■ / 1. > : "t- *■ ""' !. 1 P "*- u j ti I. mi. 1^ r, Jr. J o u -•H J.f' X...»:. • ■'^•' K^ ii^V^'\?!\i.^ii lu 1 /\0 60 D IT N G A -^^Jk. *-3 , TTH BAT ^"^fji^^: ^ilMOtikl. ** "*^*Sy, SOTJTH BAT ^*Tfj£r ^- ' JIjSpa c . » * & « iii. ii iiii i i ii 4|. W iJuk Mf^i f R Svforloaf btarir^ S. CJittint 9 » /S SralariUIand .l/ielifhOwufrhtmra^ WJT.KJifimUjmik. L.AejCyAM■■■!. 2»S0 0tM. Wte ^ S700 rt' *■ s' 4i 5a' i4' S2' so,' #»■ -M' ■ I ii. I III I I'l i n I n ij< 8ii i > »ii I 111 I i >^ I iii I III 65' fit' 63' 02 n' lion|;itad» 0* &»• sr V' »*?-^ ^'*_" Aft '■T* A^a W A«X i^aa «.^ laJT"*"- '*-'■» _ ^>«i;« -- i^ M» T 4-i S^S>:'!^.-'-^^^^-^4^"-^--^^^^ 1BO0 _.,,-••''' .^.^;;— •••"'"i M jui0 ^..*^ Z7. rmJilSi of tlie \. \. \ N N Gulf Stream rr.,,aJ,_.,ufk^Ap^f_.,!!:.,^e J^^ ■■■" \ 'V V \ V gv.e anat ■MO id.trt. \ M7« ST" V \ •JSf- teoo lib iib stoo idb ^"^■^^ *-<^ /.•. .^ in iij?rii;?.?ft*;"j" 3 Jul«* 01*2;.--- -«i^ »*' '^: J-lf --^■■^..rA \ VIOO \ ^^ 34* •s aeso niTo «^? jAo )^~ V7* 6a* &*• o* *» "* M' S4' sr 90' w »'^ I III I I < Br 49* of W B»" ™»' "" « ^ — • 1. A- \ -.i'^- \. %tio *»oo \^^ '^1^. '.O: M» ^ \ ^«l- lioniritade in iime ifiurt. of ^ Xcridion'of -J^EMauiacbf k if''' IS' i«''>' If *»■ •' *' ■»• %■ * S6' se- Bi- 53:.j»' ■*•' y::<. «; " ■ I - 1 ■ > ■ I ' ■' " ■'■■ A ■■ I .■. » •<» .j' ' t f ■' ■ '-■-..A »'iiifiiBiiHi#s«^iy(iiiiJiiiilWii»iW :K» % n a z '1 k-^ys AND SITE OK HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 31 Lenctii ok the Day. Another branch of evidence is in the length of the shortest day of the year in Vineland. On this the most eminent scholars have differed. Let us see on what the question rests. We are familiar with the steadily decreasing elevation of the sun at mid- day as autumn advances, until about the 21st of December, when he paurss and turns again to ascend. At this time our day has its least length. This day, to our south, all the way to a point some 23" 28' south of the equator, would be longer than it is here. North of us it would be shorter. Nice observation and a little calculation would enable one to tell how far north from the equator he is, if note is taken of the time between sunrise and sunset of the shortest day, — the 21st of December. Now, this observation of the length of the shortest day in Vineland, on the occasion of tiieir irst visit, was made by the Northmen, but unhappily in terms which by the most eminent Icelandic scholars have not been interpreted alike ; as a consequence, there has not been .igrcement among them as to the length of the shortest day, and of course the latitude of Vineland has not been fixed from this relation. The most important of these opinions gave six hours as the minimum length of the shortest day in the year at \'inoland. and nine hours as the maximum length. Intermediate lengths have been suggested, — as seven h(iur> and eight, — and also an estimated length greater than nine hours. Ikit it would take one too far to con>idcr more than two of these estimates. 1 will take that of si.x hours and that of nine hours. These days would be composed each of one half on either side of midday. In one case the half would h(\ three hours long, and in the other the half would be four hours and a half long. In the one case the whole day between sun- rise and sunset would be si.x hours, and in the other nine hours long. The single .sentence in ttie Saga, or half sentence, on which the decision of the question is balanced, is this : " The sun shines there on ey^-/ and dtxgmal on the shortest day of the year." 22 THE LANDKAI.I. OK I.K.IK KRIKSON, The Other half of the sentence is: " Day and night were more nearly equal in Vineland than in Greenland." This latter fragment has weight, as showing the difiiculty of accepting for Vineland the shortest day as one of six hours. The day and niglit, in tliat case, would tiol be more itmrly equal, as the south of Greenland and the north of Vineland would be in the same latitude. The condition of the problem of the latitude of Vineland, as determined by the shortest day, may be thus summed up : — Risk, in a letter writtL-n December, 183 1, to Mr. VVhcaton, our Minister at Copen- hagen, pronounced it practically impossible of solution. liishop Sveinsoii, of Skalholt, did not understand it. Torf.xiis, sent to him by the Kin^; of Denmark to be in- structed as to the meaning of cyktarslad and dagmalastad, at first thought the day to be six hours long. I'orstcr interpreted the passage in the Saga to mean tvj;/// hours, — a notion later held by Torl;eus. \'idalin, and after him I'inn Jonsson, Rafn, and Finn Magnussen, held the day to be nine hours long. This subject was discussed in the Ai)|ieiuii.\ to my .Address at the un- veiling of the statue to Leif in Boston in i-SSy. My effort was needlessly elaborate. I there attempted a solution of the question of the time of eykt, which has been so often sought. It depended largely on whether eyktarstad was a particular hour or the end of a particular hour, and was practically settled when Vidalin found, in the passage in .Snorri's " Kdda," that at Reykholl autumn ends and winter begins at sunset at the time of eykt. Sunset is essentially a point of time, and not ar. hour: all le.xi- cographers are agreed on this. The beginning of winter, at Reykholt, the residence of Snorri Sturlason, where the. above observation was made, was in the week including the middle of October. The point or time of eykt by modern reckoning would be ascertained by a determination of the time of sunset or sunrise ; they are alike equidistant from midday. They are points of time, not hours. To find this the astronomer Bishop Thorlacius was instructed to observe the time of sunrise und sunset at Reykholt on the first Saturday occurring between the iith and the 17th of October. One was found to occur at half-pa.st seven in the morning, and the other at AND SITK Ol- HIS HOUSKS IN VINELAND. 23 half-past four in tne afternoon. The one was daomalastad, the time of break- fast ; the other, cyktarslad, the time of the afternoon lunch, at Reykholt. Professor Storm has arrived at the conclusion that as the time of cykt varies with the latitude in Norway, it is therefore of no value in determin- ing the latitude of Vineland. Vigfusson mentions that cykt, the afternoon lunch, occurs in Norway — he does not mention the degree of latitude — at half-past three. At the home of Bjiirnsen, in the region of interior Nor- way, Gudbrandsdal, it is now at about five o'clock. In the neighborhood of Christiania it is at half-past five. The Church seems, doubtless for well-considered reasons, to have tried to make cykt coincident with 7iona (the ninth hour), at three o'clock. It is n(.t remarkable that Professor Storm came to the conviction that Leif's observation that on the shortest day in Vineland the sun shone on tykt and dai^nia/, was of no value in determining its latitude. Hut in this deduction of Professor Storm a consideration of domestic habit has momentarily escaped him ; its significance will be apparent. Of Icelandic life we have an authoritative picture in Henderson. In 1814 ami 1S15 a Scotch gentleman, Dr. Ilcntlerson, went on horseback, at- tended by an adequate escort with suitable equipment, entirely around the coast of Iceland, and crossed the country in various directions four times. He liad, as a scholar and philanthropist, supervised the printinj; of the Hiljlc in Icelandic, and as the apjcnt of the British and Foreign Hible Society, undertaken the distribution of the Hible to such families of Iicland as had not before jwssesscd it. It became his duty to visit the clergy and learned men. including the officials, and also the people of all ranks in their homes. This labor occupied him, except during the winter, for two years. To no I'.iiglishman (M- Scotchman probably, before or since, has it been possible to become better .acquainted with the general cultivation, the habits, the domestic life, the inherited ways, the usages, of the Icelandic people, than he was. I lis opportunities do not seem ever to have been equalled by any man of any natioii- iility. die jniblished bis journal ; in that he remarks : — " The Norwegians who first went over to Iceland were sprung from some of the most distinguished f.imilies in the l.ind of their nativity. . . . Their jvedoniinant character is that of unsuspecting frankness, pious contentment, and a steady liveliness of tempera?uent, com- bined with a strength of Intellect and .iruteness of mind seliloin to be met with in other parts of the world. Their /(//^-vi/^v, liress, and mode of h/c have then invarnil>t\ lite same during a (•criihl of nine cenliiries." 24 THE 1.ANUKALL OK I.EIK ERIKbON, EvKTARSTAD and Dagmai.astad. What do tliesc old Norse words, cyktaistad and dai^malasUui, mean? One of them, the latter, is still in use in Iceland. \Vc can see its meaiiiuij without an etTort. Dii<- means "day," early morninj^; mal means " meal ;" stad or lad means "time" or " tide." ICarlv moriiing — meal-lime — breakfast varies, as to precisely when it is served, with domestic habits and social classes ; but it is a morniug meal. About cyktaistad there has been a va> nount of discussion. The root of tlie word is tykt. Tliis was held by a srcat authority in Icelandic mailers — I'iun Ma^nussen — to mean " oiLjhlh." But Professor \'igfus.son, of O.xford, England, in his " Icelandic i:)iclionary," says " lykt has noliiing to do with (///./,' the Icelan- dic word for " eighth." ' Vigfusson also says : " In Norway ykt means a luncheon ' There .1 c re.isons for hesit.iting about accepting the conclusion of Viytusson. Tiic origin of this system of u! 'sions of three hours e.ich solmus ,i n.itur.il one. and of very early cl.ile In the "Hook .jf .Sun Di.ils," Geori;e Ikll & Sons, Lontlon, 18S9, paiie iS. Introduction, the Kev. D. H. H.iij;h. in a p.ipcr iKlore the Yorkshire .Archasological .Society (Journal, vol. v pait xvii ) is authority for the following;; — " The octaval .system is of very aiK'iciiI origin. We tiiid in Job xniii. S. 9, alliisiun m.ule i" a man with his face toward ihe sunrising, locikin>; Ix'fore, bchiiid, to the right liand and !o the left, or, -as it is rendered by the Targum. ' ri>iiiR, selling, glowin)!, hiding," corrcspDndiiiK «ith the four cardinal p j.^7^v. .•N»I4^ ^»ik Nt*!* ■UhM. -f'i ^ >""«y>a< ^-^ ■i" X •?^ ■^■^ riSjl....-»««V' I J.. . -ii.»R- r^j Jt«, , '" ■%1 ? * 1,M i I \ -.1 \' ^ -jil- -^ ii4> '^1 \ \ 1 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 - IM ^, m 11^ 12.0 U Hi 1.6 6' V] <^ /2 VI c-: ^j. ''^# «ra '{^f A //. V ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ?!3 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 L >J>«. Geratd Mtrotiori iimd """1« ■» Duwljan in 15*9; /' / 4j7 t5w 2> / jTot/'j* rMji^c/jt •*iC / T^ \ A \ >\ n ^ 1 ».. I A* d^L^^ / ** ,r^ >. ^•=» * JOHN DEE, 1580. Pr.OU THI MOLIMEAUX aU)BB. M^l. DB BUY, 1596. ^y<^ ^■%A MSfiB/AM I vjYrri.rET. '^'jj- ft L A M "^ AND SIT1-: OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 29 The first three names in horizontal succession in either column are the same, and well known. They bear to-day the names they bore nine hundred years ago ; their latitude and longitude are well known. The second three names in either column are borne by projections, provinces, or regions lying to the southerly of Greenland. In the first column they arc unknown ; in the second they are known. Let us consider the relative distances of these projections and their directions from one another in each column. They were subjects of instruction in the schools. At Skalholt, not far from the modern Reykjavik, in very early times was established one of the two great institutions of learning of Iceland. The ip . ld .. %- fiLw4>^LJfr, .itUli^r»Mt^ other was at Holum. One of the most learned and renowned officers of instruc- tion at Skalholt was Ste- phanius, who, to assist in teaching his classes the his- tory of Icelandic discoveries, prepared a map, of which a copy has been preser\'ed, and is herewith presented to the reader. On this we see the names of the localities just men- tioned as occurring in the old school geography. We see their conceived relative positions, and their estimated relative distances apart, coinciding with those in the first of the columns just presented. Norway, Iceland, and Greenland arc on a line running easterly and westerly. Greenland, Hcl- luland, Markland, and Vineland are on a curve, the chord of which bears iis li . 30 THE LANDFALL OK LEIK KKIKSON, - 1 to the west of south. We see that from Greenland to Hclluland is far- ther than from the nearest point of the latter to Mari• z o ; I I. f ';•!»» ^'l\ ''-*t '» I. . -'*> - ■•'''. ^■ .1 ■ i"'. •' ■ (II nil: I Nl. \N I) III A y. w I' () ( ,v I) 1, A .V I) Mlllt IIh- KiM-ks V .Sutlllflillj;!! l>r;tMii(V S\ H\ y.\ s nk.-ii hv Ohiii:h »r iIh- Huiii r IIonoi ii \iii,k ilu- I.4IKIIN (tniM I X N KtNKKs »(' Ihi A |l\l I H A r, r V . II.- fUnlrM^iIoA MMB I'^WK ^mm flkHMl VMM .MM*. ' t^m- L\\\ w' ' I \ «H^ ^^mS A (; i: N I. » A 1. (' II A It r III INK INI. \ \ l> III .\ K U' I' I J r ,v I) 1, A N u «i(li iIh' KiH'ks V .Siuiiiiliii^ii. ' ■ * • — o****!* •msfmrnm^r AND Sine OK HIS MOUSES IN VINEI.AND. 3« going out from Greenland with purpose to reverse the voyage of the first — observed tliree great projections; the second navigator verifying the t)bservations of the first, and in addition giving names to the projec- tions. These names were the names given in the fragment of Icelandic school geography and on Stephanius's map, — Helluland, Markland, and Vineland. liut the history gives us more. It gives in general terms the /I'me rec|uired and the direction for sailing from one poiiJ to the next and it gives the appearance of the projections, — their physical and geographical characteristics. Let us apply the descriptions given in this history to these projections as we know them to-day. The first projection encountered in sailing southward from Greenland — Helluland — is described by its discoverer as an island, \^re?,Qn\.\v\g flat rocks at the shore where the ship touched, and behind them, in the in- terior, snow-covered mountains. Being an island, it could not have been Labrador. It is called Icaria on the map of the Zeni. The j^ro;/// — Markland — is described as being zcit/iout mountains; wooded, and skirted -with sand-beaches. The ///m/— Promontorium Vinlandia> — is described as being wooded, having low hills in the interior, extended sand-beaches, and figured as having a bay at the west, opening out to the ocean on the north. All this is from Icelandic history. Now let us look at the geographical characteristics of what may be these same projections as we know the: i to-day. The //>j/ projection is Newfoundland (Helluland .'). We present a photograph of the shore of Newfoundland in the neigh- borhood of the most prominent salient on the east coast, — St. John's, the Cape Speer (Spear) of Capt. John Rut, 1527.' In the offing an iceberg looms through the fog ; there is no beach. The shore is an expansion of flat rocks. In the mist one sees a bold promontory on the right. The ' See letter to Henry VIII. | I'urchas, vol. lii. p- 809. j \ 32 THE LANDl ALL OF LlilK ERIKSON, loofathom line closely apiM-oaclies the shore.' Newfoundland is sur- rounded by water. Its length on the eastern face is three hundred and twenty miles. In a valley in the interior not distant from St. John's (the capital and seaport), trees attaining to the maximum size, indicated in the accompanying photograph, are found in sheltered places. For the most part, the native soil of the southeasterly portion is covered with scattered shrubbery and rank grasses. Far in the interior and nearer the northwestern coast of the island are forests. There are mountains in the southern part, and snow-covered mountains in the northern part. The Sagas seem to make this distinction. The sciond projection is Nova Scotia (Markland .-'). According to the Admiralty chart of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton (presented herewith), the trend of the. southern coast is E. N. Fi. and W. S. \V. This coast is the lee side of the land as regards glacial move- ment. Sable Island is what remains, above water, of a long moraine swept by the glaciers coming from the north, — the monument of count- less wrecks and their cause. Much of Nova Scotia is bordered by sand- beaches and bluffs, as mentioned by Leif, which, it will be later observed, are wanting on the coast of Maine, as they are on the cast coast of Newfoundland. The whole region is low, wooded along the coast, and without mountains. It is not an island. The //«>?). This region has been elaborately survej'cd by the United States Govern- ment. I present, first, a comprehensive outline of the territory of the most southern of the three great projections, — extending from the mouth of the Mcrrimac to, and including, the entrance to Narragansett Bay; second, a detailed map of the peninsula of Cape Cod from the United States Coast Survey. ■ ' ' ^ ,■ It will be seen that Cape Cod fPromontorium Vinlandi.T ?) is bordered by sand-beaches ; that it ha.s small hills in the interior, but no mountains. > .See herewith the Ailmir.ilty (li,iri liy the great navii;.->tiir and discoverer Capt. James Conk ; also chart, United States Hydrographical Bureau, is introduced later. i T •- *3 ," 1^ -.Ve^' r < ' ' '^ :•- *• -'" , • - . ^ - . ■ *! -^ ^^i^'^fC^'A-. '• """^^'^ f -"^^ ' ■ itfi^ ^ ^m7i^ ^-^-iS^ . -^ Wr -^wrmammmm I I. .tm'z ■^':mf'^ ^i^; i; vr^i. ' iWay" I 11 AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 33 We are, let us remcriiber, seeking now only for an equivalent of the latitude. We have found, as the result of an examination of the charts of the Admiralty and United States Coast Survey and familiar modern history, that the first great projection southwest of Greenland — Newfoundland — is an island, and has snow-covered mountains, but no sand-beaches; that the second of the great jjrojections — Nova Scotia — is girt about with sand- beac/ies, and has no mountains ; and that the third of the great projections — Cape Cod — is bordered with sand-beaches, and is without mountains. We arc entirely safe in the conclusion, aside from the evidence in the succession of the projections, ihat Newfoundland could not have been the Vineland of the old Icelandic school geogra])hy. Why not ? Because it has snow-covered mountains and no sand-beaches. F r the same reasons it could not have been the Markland of the Sagas. Vineland must then have been either Nova Scotia or Cape Cod, — both of which present extended sand-beaches and no mountains. The S.\gas. Let us now look at the history to which we have been referring. It is contained in what have been called the Vineland Sagas. They constitute a small body of Icelandic literature that has come down to us from the period of the events narrated, for a long time held in mem- ory by frequent recitations, the habit of the people, and as part of a system of education, and sometimes for professional .service, — transmitted from sire and matron to son and daughter as fireside entertainmen*: and culture for a series of generations, and then, with the introduction of the art of writing, transferred to parchment.' ' S.iga-mcn. The children of Iccl.iiid of our day (so I g.itlicr from native Icelanders) know of nothing more s.irred th.in the duty of .ilisolute .iccur.icy in rcpeatini; a Saija. Rev. Dr. Henderson (iSi 3-i,Si4) dwells on the intellectual accomplishments in the humlilest or;^ Ka'-miisscn, now of Milwaukee. Wis., that I nii^;lit have the latest results of scholarlv research in this field. 36 TUld LAN DI ALL OK LEIF ERIKSON, those of Rafn, Worsaae, HuniU/Jl, Whcaton, Kolil, J. Eliot Cabot, B. F. Uc Costa, and of all others, as Mr. Cabot remarks, •'competent to form a judgment on them." Professor Storm has pursued to their issues other important inquiries connected with the Northmen, lie finds the story by the Prelate Adam of Bremen of his interview with the King of Denmark in regard to Vineland, somewhere about 1070, — once questioned, then overlooked, then quite forgotten, and then taking its place in history. — to be entirely trustworthy. This is the relation : — " Besides, it was stated [by the King] that an island had been visited by many, lying in that ocean, which was railed Vineland, because vines making excellent wine grew there spontaneously ; cereals grew there without planting, of their own accord. This we know, not from fabulous reports, but by the certain testimony of the Danes." Professor Storm discusses the story of Ari Marson, a kinsman of Erik the Red. which records a possible visit to America as early as 982 ; but it is foreign to the object of this paper.' So, too, he takes up the stories of Bjorn Asbrandsson and Gudleif Gudlaugsson ; but they also belong to another field of inquiry. II Tni. Southern Limit of the Vineland of Leif. Before turning to the language of the Sagas, one thing further may be mentioned in determining the southern limit of our search for Vineland as given on Stephanius's map. Stephanius says: " Beyond Promontorium Viiilandix uwis a great lyulf, of li'hich not/iins; was kti07un" If Promon- torium Vinlandia? was the peninsula of Cape Cod. it follows that \ineland must have been north of the forty-first dec^ree. We have the Promontorium X'inlandia-, with the bay wide-mouthed on the west, open tt) the north, corresponding with the Hook of Cape Cod. Besides this, in a relation of the Saga, which we anticipate, it is men- tioned that a merchant-ship of one of the Northmen was driven on a neck ' See also the le.irned rliscussion in great detail nf the .story of Ari Marson and (Ireat Ireland, by Beauvois, at the Congre.ss of Americanistes at Nancy in 1.S75. ik ■A'l^Tia;!^^."^' ■iC:-i-^A: AND SITK OF HIS HOUSES IN VINEI.AND. 37 z^bife:^. c'rnd broke off its keel. To repair this — that is, to renew the keel — the vessel, Professor Mitchell thinks, was beached at high tide, careened, and Mie work done between tides.' The construction of the hull of a vessel of this period is exhibited in the drawing of the recently exhumed Gokstad Viking ship, which I saw in 1880, and which has been the sub- ject of an elaborate paper by M. Nicolayson, of Christiania. I add, from Du Chaillu's " Viking Agi'," a cut show- ing the mode of attaching the keel. One sees how precisely the terms of the Saga apply. The keel was not merely broken, it was broken off. This beaching was possible on or near the interior shores of Cape Cod, just outside the Hook, or anywhere lower down the inner shore where the tide is some ten to twelve feet, but not possible anyivlierc south of t/ic peninsula 0/ Cape Cod. Why? On Nantuc- ket, opposite Buzzard's May, the tides will not permit it ; and on Shel- Ur Island, ir ( lanliner's i5ay, the mean tide is less than three feet. In such depth a mcrchant- shi|i, with a complement of thirty to forty men, and construction providing for a cargo, loulil not be careened for repairs to its keel. Profes.sor Mitchell's view, however, if accepted, confirms Stephanius, and limits the southern range of our search for Vincland. ' Tills view, so very tliouj^litful of I'rofossor Mitcliell, is open to question, li the lij;lit of .1 stone tablet fonnil in .i grave across the Hay in Essex County, a /jr j/w/A- of which appears on our title page, and to wliich I sh.ill Liter recur. I \t] EXPEDITION OF BJARNI. Driftino in Long Northeast Winds anu Storms and the SoirrHERLV-SErriNf; Arctic Current.' BjARNi.a Norwegian niercliant and ship-master, on a voyage in 985 from Iceland to Greenland, had been driven in a northeast storm, accompanied by fog and rain for many days, upon a low, wooded projection of the coast, having here and there little hillocks in the interior. He did not land, as the country did not look like Greenland, — which he had heard was a region of ice-covered mountains and little vegetation, — but sailed to the northeast, with a fair wind, for two days, when he came to another projec- tion, also low, relatively without mountains, and wooded. Leaving this second projection without landing, and with the same favoring wind, after three days' sail he came on a high land, having snow-covered mountains, which proved to be an island, the nearest part of which was from three to four days' sail to the southwest of Greenland. After sailing three days more, under stress of canvas so great as to compel him to shorten sail, he reached Herjulfsncss, the residence of his father, at the southern extremity of Greenland. I liere reprociiice a part of a recent pilot-chart issued by the Government IIydroi,napliic:il liiircaii, on which is given the tracks of various derelicts, and of the great timher-rafl that went to pieces Dec. 18, 1887, showing the course pursued by them in drifting ; and, besides these, showing the course of a buoy which broke hose from ifs moorings off Cape A'lUr. and after forty-six days was captured off Nantuclcet Shoals. Its course lay along, and just witliin, the margin of the Arctic current. (.See arrows j Its progress may have been hastened by a northeast wind, and it may have been retarded by a southwesterly wind. Hut the chances are that tlie record on the chart indicates very fairly the rate of the Arctic current, as, unless the wind was exactly with, or exactly in the teeth of, the course of the current, the buoy would have been blown into the Gulf Stream or toward the shore. Such a current, with the addition > See S.iga of T.rik the Red in tlie Appcmlix 40 THE LANDFAI.I. OF LKIF F.RIKSuN. of a northeasterly wind, Hjarni hail.' Hjarni's story determines that the land he first saw after the lon<^ easterly storm — thi- same that I.eif reaches as his most southern point — wtis some fourtcin days' sail, with a fair wind, southwest from Greenland. Dr. De Costa gives — on his tracing of Hieronymus Verrazano's map, made in the Vatican Library — Rio da kisses, in thi- group of thirty-eight islands which his brother Giovanni counted in his voyage northwaril. Desimoni made it Caho dcs hasas in 1524. Cabo de basses and />'. des basses occur also on the Uauphin map (Jomard), north of Terra Nova (one of the Penobscot group), so called, 154? The presence of this name, H. des Hasscs QlJass Harbor.'), on the maps, and of other names, as of I'renchman's Bay and of Monte de Trigo* on Hieronymus X'erra- ' In the CISC of John Kut. cited in my Address .it the unveilinj; n( tlic statue to I.cif Erik.snn. in Boston, Oct. 29. 1S87. .ind quoted from in the letter found in Turcliis (vol. iii. p. 809), his ship was driven by a wind from e.istnortlieast, which drove liini obliquely into the Arctic current. His ])Osition at the beginniuK of the .storm w.as in 53° north ; longitude not definitely known. After some twenty days he found Inmsell off Cape De li.as H.irbor (Uass Harbor, Mount Desert), twenty-five leagues (Rut's estimate) north oi .St. John's Harbor (Gloucester, M.a.ss.), in the forty-third degree, according to AUefonsce. from which place his letter was written. • - Tti-jujiit, — in allusion to the ancient chariot-races. See Hakluyt Society, William Strackey. Hy R. H. M.ijor. 1 add the cuts showing how the group of three peaks seems, to one sailing by, to pass and be passed, as if in a race. ?•'<< / iLL»i<''> r /?^. £ ~^*< 3. — ^ — i f^ , ■- r,> ^ AND SITli OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND, 41 zailo, Gastaldi, and Ruscclli, taken in connection with the presence of a Piedmont pilot with Capt. John Rut on the "Mary Guilford" in 1527, — who, with several sailors on shore with him, accordinj; to Ramusio, were put to death with frightful torture by the Indians in this neighborhood, — lends su|)port to the notion that it was Giovanni Verrazano who perished hereabout and then, and not as a pirate in Spain, according to Buckingham Smith and Mr. Murphy. Bjarni's log gives distances in nautical values. They require to be translated. But as we now know tlio distance from Belle Isle to Green- land, the path through which he had sailed, and the times during which he sailed from point to point throughout his route, we may arrive at a rough estimate of his rate. From the most northern part, of Newfoundland to Cape Farewell is about si.x hundred and ninety miles. This Bjarni sailed in three days and nights, — at the rate of about two hundred and thirty miles a day, or nearly ten miles an hour.' From Cape Race to Belie Isle Bjarni sailed along the land, on the look out for any indication there might be of a channel, so as to be able to ascertain whether or not he was coasting an island, and therefore he did not record the time. (The distance from Cape Race to Belle Isle is three hundred and twenty miles.) From Cape Sable, the low wooded land, to Cape Race, the high land of snowy mountains, Bjarni consumed three days and nights. His log states that " t/iey kept the sea for three days and ni_<^/its, until a fine breeze from the sont/iiccst." The distance on the map, in right line, is the same from Cape Sable to Cape Race that it is from Belle Isle to Cape Farewell ; and one version of the log records the same time for sailing the one stretch and the other. From the southernmost land Bjarni had seen, — Promontorium Vin- landia^ — the first he again saw was after sailing away two days and nights, with " the land on the larboard and their s/ieet on the land side.'' ' The S.nga tr.msl.itcd from Peringskjiilil gives the time as tour days. It will later appear that three days is probably more nearly correct. 43 THE 1.ANDKAIJ. OF I.KIK FRIKSON. i ^i I The land and tlic slu'ct on tlic larboard side indicate a wind from the southerly. Hjarni had been for many days in a frightful northeast storm accompanied by fog and rain, which had driven him from the neighbor- hood of Iceland through all the intervening sea — he did not know how far — to the neighborhood of Promontorium V'inlandiiv.' Such a storm must have had its counterpart to the far southwest. It had swept across the country. Fair weather iiad followed. I he storm centre (the lowest barometer) had passed to the north of him. Later tlie breeze was " fine from the southwest," and later still became a gale. This summary of the meteorology, to which Hjarni was a witness, is a familiar one at the signal-service stations. As a matter of course, about the time the .storm centre passed to the northwest of him the wind was less strong where he was, and, as might be presumed, thev were forty-eight hours in running from Promontorium Vin- landi-T to Markland (on our maps from Cape Cod to Cape Sable), — about two hundred and seventy-five miles, or scarcely si.\ knots an hour. Let us now return to the equivalent of the latitude. Having the direc- tions, we seek the distances. A [)art of them we know, because we know that Greenland and the island to the southerly of it — Newfoundland — were the Greenland and the Helluland which were familiar to Hjarni and Leif. They were familiar not only to them, but to their successors. Thorlacius maps them. .So do others, before Torfa-us wrote.- The distance from Cape Race, where Hjarni, sailing to the northeast, first found high mountains, to Cape Farewell (Greenland) is in hUitude more 'Cn'xn four fifths of the whole distance from Promontorium Vin- landicX (Cape Cod) to Greenland. From Cape Farewell to Cape Race is, in right line, ten hundred and ninety statute miles; and in degrees of latitude it is 13" 30', while from Cape Race to Cape Cod it is 4" 30'. ' See Stcplianius's .M.ip, p.ige 29. > Sec Tidskrift. iS,S5-i886. -^■■yjJtaiiatei^'jK^ifc^i,, , , -_ - - Norfolk'* •" Sch." .JU ,/ Nov.W "^'<,\. Oct 240^- Kiiv. 3 -o N :t.l Bk.Lavar* ■o- Jan. 29, Oci ^ItaiM ' '.v " . f 's^ \ < 1 te MriM I' ! n imm i i ,. ^.«>».i»n^f«is.»-nii,»yj»iiy»>ji.f *,'. AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 43 ' The trend of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton is about E. N. E. and W. S. VV. ; but from Cape Sable to Cape Race it is nearer N. E. by E. ; and from Cape Cod to Cape Race it is nearly N. E. It may be stated thus : — Cape Farewell is in 60° 10' Latitude, and 43° Longitude. Cape Race „ 46° 40' .. - 53° 'o' „ Cape Sable „ 43" 3o' .. -. 65= 10' Cape Cod „ 42° lo' „ .. 70" 10 The total northing between Cape Cod and Cape Sable is only 1° 20', and between Cape Cod and Cape Race 4° 3o'- But the difference in longitude between Vineland (Cape Cod) and Helluland (Cape Race) is 17°. Let us now recall the object of immediate search. It is the latitude of Vineland. We have brought it down to a range of 4" 30' of latitude, — that is, it is within extreme limits of about three hundred miles north and south, along a northeasterly and southwesterly shore of the Atlantic. This assumes for the moment that the Vineland of Leif did not extend south of the elboiv of the peninsula of Cape Cod. This Stephanius said, and this we have stated in passing on page 37 i but we shall later more fully see the demonstration of its truth. That, and the testimony of the name " Kjalarnes," and the renewal of Thorwald's keel go together. Let us consider the situation anew. Now, Bjarni was three days and nights, with a " f^ne breeze from the southwest," in making the 3° lo' of latitude and 12° of longitude between Cape Sable and Cape Race, — six hundred and ninety statute miles; and he was two days and two nights, with a southerly (?) wind, making the 5" of longitude with the i" 20' of latitude between Cape Cod and Cape Sable, -two hundred and seventy-f^ve miles. Taking the latter division of the voyage in reverse, Leif made it in two days, -that is, probably two days and nights; as he came upon land in the early (.?) mornmg (those who landed observed the dew). The times would then be prac- tically identical. 44 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF EklKSON, [if I Leif's Exi'kdition and Lanokai I.. Leif, having heard Hjanii's story, buys, equips, and mans his ship. He touches the island Bjarni had coasted, notes the flat rocks along the shore (see photograph, page 31), calls it Helluland, and sails away for Bjarni's next salient, taking it in reverse. He finds the shore sandy, calls the land Mark- land, and sails away for the next point. Here is Leif's record from the time uf leaving Markland: ' — " Leif said, ' We shall give this land a name according tt) its kind, and call it Markland.' Then they hastened on board, and put to sea again, with the wind from the northeast, and were out for two days until they sighted land. They sailed to the countrj', and tame to See S.iga of Krik K,\iifle. .Appendix. » W. W. Withcrspoon (.■\meritaii .Xmliroimloeist. vol xi. p 380), says : " Whilst travclliii); through the State of Nev.idn, ... my attention was attracted to numbers of Indians, principally squaws and ■ children, camped along the borders of Honey I.ak-. The shores of this lake were bordered by large beds of tides, or rushes, crowin;: in the shallows. I was told that the Indians came to the lake every year to gather honey-dew; and never having heard of this before. I made a hurried investigation, and found the tulcs when freshly gathered to be .sparsely covered with small, clear, bright points or drops of a sticky and verv sweet liquid, resembling honey in both taste and consistency. The drops in some instances were a little larger than a pin's head, hut as a nile were very minute. This. I was told, was the 'honey-dew ; ' and it was to gather this that the Indians were then gathering the tulcs, . . . " 1 was informed by the white men living near Hcmcy Lake that the lake derived its name from this honey-dew Whether the dew is the result of perforations in the stalks produced by insects, or is ,1 deixisit made by some insect. I am unable to say." Touching tlie last point the following observation will have weight. Driving in Lenox. Mass.. late in September. 1889. I noticed the leaves on shagbark hickory-trees by the loadsidc to be apparently varnished on one side. On eximination I found the substance sticky, and to be sweet to the taste. The quantity that had issued was so considerable as to have dripped and stained the fence rails and the ground. On some leaves there were little white crystalline scales. looking and tasting precisely like cane sugar. It was palpably an exudation from the leaf. The leaves of elms were also varnished; but the substance, though viscid, was bitter to the tasie The day was dull, and the season h,aut Cape Cod. and much of a long, slender- leaved grass, deeply rooted in the sands : but having been accustomed to think that the sweetness of the dew observed by the Northmen was another word for refreshing i)urity, very natural to men who had for a long time been at sea. it had not occurred to me to look for indications of honey-dew I !■ mt&m*. SLilgMISSBg T' 1. J(J".'?"P?."*I» TIIK RIVER h GULF or ST LAWRENCE .NEW FOUNDLAND.NOVASCOTIA AM) TIIK. UANKS \I).IA( KNT. lUliM riiK IIHITISII \ llMIKM.rV KUKM M MAUINK M.iir S lOVST srl(\KYS. (r7 f«f r '«./ J^m^tf * !«" '"J -*» '.f* 5>rw»rt ttitmir J <»m»» .CMnMaM \» ■-•ii'"" i' ! '/ s.i... i*.'kf:' •: ■^ .,:.^^i^»M^-'f' L"s:affiaasfes yv 1 ■•' t;. -^ /lA fM ■^ *#««W'«*«»!S!«I»W»«*! ,.^-W!9««*i»ft>i» ■ AND SITE OF HIS HOUSKS IN VINELAND. 45 Having landed and observed the sweetness of the dew, they again embarked. " 'J'hen they went on board, and sailed through ' a bay that lay between the island and a ness that jutted out northeastward^ from the mainland, and steered . . . westward," past the ness." The two great facts relating to the Landfall are — {\) descending from the nortlieast upon an island lying to the north of the mainland; and (2) its having on the west a broad bay opening out to the north. Leif, in plain sailing to the southwest from Ncwfoimdland, could not have fallen on an island on the north shore of Nova Scotia, even if he might have been west of the island of Newfoundland. Why .•' Because Prince Edward Island, or Cape Breton, or the Mag- dalen Islands, would have intercepted hint. But in sailing from Cape Race, reversing Bjarni's route, might not Leif have fallen on an island on the south side of Nova Scotia? Yes. But how will he, on leaving the island, as the Saga requires, sail through or across a bay or sound opening outward to the north ? Look at the Admiralty map; look at the chart of Stephanius; look at the sentence above from the Saga ! All the bays on the south shore of Nova Scotia which Leif could have reached by sailing from Cape Race at the northeast, open to the ocean, not to the north, but to the south. On reflection it will be clear to the reader, with the maps before him, that this is conclusive as to the latitude of the Landfall. It could not have been on the coast of Maine, as there are no sand-beaches from Portland to Frenchman's Bay; and a sandy shore is essential, though not enough of itself to determine Vincland. Had it depended alone on a belt of sandy shore or lowland, wooded, and the absence of snow-covered mountains (as these qualities are common to the peninsulas of Cape Cod and of Nova Scotia), the Landfall might ' Thea- .ire oilier versions : as, " across a bay," and " into a sound." " Another version is "■north." » .SVi/'/frt' westward. H 46 TUK LANDFALL OK LEIF ERIKSON, have been on Nova Scotia, tliough Markland with ^andy shores could not have been Newfoundland. Wliy ? A\:c/oii>iti,'an(/ /ms no sand-beaches. But coiiiing from the northeast upon the Landfall ^t the notlh of the mainland, and then sailing westward through a bay opening out to the north and past a ncss jutting out from the mainland to the northeast, determines the question adversely, so far as Nova Scotia is concerned. There is a feature of the coast which may be mentioned as most inter- esting and corroborative. It is that the southernmost part of Vineland on Stephanius's map, in presenting a bay opening to the ocean on the north, as already observed, and having a long, narrow promontory going north- ward, the continuation of the mainland on the east, corresponds to Cape Cod Bay, already referred to, and suggests the name which the Dutch gave to Cape Cod, — Witle Moek {White Hook). Tin; Island on wiricii the Landfall Occurred. but it must be admitted that the island which was Lcifs Landfall is not on our modern maps, nor on the map of Stephanius. Have we then made a mistake, after all ? No ; the island was there. It existed down to 1602. Gosnold saw it. It was there to Allefonsce in 1543, to Ruysch in 1507, to Cosa in 1500, probably to the crew of John Cabot in 1497, and we may add to Lcif in icxx). It was the Kjblrnes (Kjalarncs) of Tliorwald and Thorfinn; the Coar- anes of Merriam ; the Carenas of Lok ; the Cape Arenes of Thevet ; the Cape de Arenas of Mercator; the C. de arena of Vallard; the C. de Sablons of the Dauphin niaj); the Cap Blanc of Champlain (1605); the Insel Baccalaurus of Ruysch (1507), and its equivalent, the Cape Cod of Gosnold (1602), — the Cape Cod of to-day. North End of Cape Cod an Isl.\n». How far southwarTAe StcUes(/em-r(f/ . m /Ae /8'-^ A/j////,sl, /0'/6 , /> "Be/vuiSeMe/.s van NifUH-Xed^/land 'raying for a Spedal Orfroy aawi/i//(/ fo /Jw Phmm/ of ^7 MtirrJi /6'/4 , Mfmor/aJ, Its s/i^mn^ f/ie exteMo/y < n rnes mnA h\ ■ Sc/tip/je> (oi /le/is //en^/r/ej: x of Mim/iden//W ''^-^ .^ / 1 1. !--■ ! / *•. I'w^- . , -:!!::; h "> '■ ^ .■*T.« y I Tkto I, from •urvcya miuia It; (iipt ('y|iriiui ^ullllhlU1|t, uiuIit ilm niitlnMiiy if iIk' llntiah kO thn year ^iMlalMd In ••!■• form with otbor uharti uf Umi ('«BadiiM miiI M<'» hiuilsuil aouto, itliout I7a'4, ia Ixmduu. ■m of tk« ('. ft. (JoMi Md UtKxtaUc Itarvvjr, WmUdkUhi, I). (. ., in Mty. iaa«, (rom k inr} KALI ' t f j j I -j- j I, i j Jo .^,.^ UU4. : f t .,-WK-. ■^v.,T^SA^.-i. m -% 'I' '^ : •:i - t ^f- W^' ' "-W , -,. '**^'t''*K^**S5f?**f!S t ■ f 1 t -^'■X.-> ' J'C^^-^X'^^'-y ^^^-^ VV'/ r' r 5 9 8 : s - < • r i* ^i 5 S 2's f |Si)\, and published in 1734. It presents a passage across the cape, or peninsula, which Soiithack traversed in a whalebdat in 1717- It is now crossed by two bridges. It liad its eastern terminus in Nausel I larbor, and its western outlet is now Hoat Meadow River. Tliis passage, answering to po])ular belief on the Cape, was closed in about 1740. It appears to me, passing along the highway, to be filled up with blown sand, through which still creeps a slender rivulet. 2. We have the map of the Dutch explorer, from surveys of Hendricxscn, in 1614. It shows ojjen way through Mass River on the south side to Hass Hole on the north, now occupied with the river, swamps, ponds, and an area of -sand-ridges thrown up by wind and water. 1 have visited the region. Through this pass the Puritan Colony of i6^*<, going to Quinnipiac frf)ni Boston, afterward settling at Guilford, according to tradition, jjrobably passed. It is one of the routes which it has been proposed to open for a ship-canal across the peninsula of Cape Cod. This ancient channel, cutting off the eastern part of the [K-ninsiiIa, made, as seems probable, the great triangular Island of Louisa of X'errazano, — about the size, as he estimated, of the Island of Rhodes.' The map of Ilendricxsen bears rather on the merging of the numerous original more or less detached moraines into the present continuous peninsula. V We have the map of Ruysch, bearing date of 1507, produced from records by Portuguese discoverers of the earlier years of the si.xtecntli century. Although a little distorted, there can be no question that In. Raccalaurus was the portion of the present Cape Cod within which the Pilgrims anchored in 1620, around which " the Race " sweeps, and on which stands Provincetown to-day. A glance at the large and detailed Coast Survey Map of Cape Cod shows the Islet Haccalaurus united by a long neck, quite slender toward the south, connecting with the main peninsula near the Highland Light. Il shows, loo clearly to leave a doubt, that th('re was a time when the long, narrow strip of drift sand constituted a part of the body of the ancient moraines at cither end. 4. A few years nearer to the time of Leif we have Cosa's map of 1500. As Cosa was not on the New England shore, the portion of the map north of the West Indies must have been supplied to him. As John Cabot is the only earlier navigator whose sketch of the region of Ca()e Ann and Cape Cod has come down to us, it is fair ■o^~ ;<•.►"' .*vi*: ' 1 quote ttic followinf; froin I'lrevoort's ver.sion of \'iTr.iz,ino. p.it;p 43 : " Weijjhinfj .inclior [in Itoston HarlM)r], Wf s.iilcd e.islwaril, .is the l.ind Uirneil tint w.iy, ruiinini; ci.;IUy leifjues K.imusio s.iys fifty], U'c snw .ilways in siijlit of it an i^limd 01' tri.mgnlir form, (list, int ten le,ij;iies from the continent, in .size like the Isl.ind of Rhodes, full of hilis. covered with trees, and thicklv inh.il)il(d, [judj;iu;;j from the series of fires which we s.iw them ni.ikinjj all aloni; the shore. We baptized it with the n.inie of your illustrious mother [Louisa]." V'crrazano appears, in dclerniinir.f; the laneh. and Southack, side by side with the detailed Coast Survey map of Ca|)e Cod, enables one to see that the navigators who furnished the originals may have found ' John Cal)Ol in i4'*7 Sec inscription I'ii Lok s map. \l 48 TllK LANIJIALI. OK I.KIK KKIKSON. to infer that one of Cabot's crew shipped with Cosa ami f;avc liini tlic outline of this portion ot iiis niaj). It is, naturally, out of proportion, but shows a larger and lesser island at the summit of the Cape. The narrow straits, in keeping with the idea that the whole region was niaiio up of islanils, were like the rest of Cosa's great maji. and doubtless his own work I'he Charles (the Kio Ciranile: and the rocks and islands at its mouth are there as they are on Kuysch's, and as described by Alletonsce and Thevct, and as they ap|)ear on the Coast Survey Chart. The portion of the map which 1 ascribe to the sailor, reached from Cavo do V'nglaterra — Ca|)e Hritain (Hrelon), Cape Ann — to Cape Cod, the salient beyond the most distant Hag, — a memory of the act of sovereignty (planting a tlag) of John Cabot. It bears the Venetian and Uritish arms quartered on Humboldt's copy. See Cosa's map in llumboUlt's " M.xamen Critique ;" also (Joniara and Stevens. Near Cape Hreton is Cavo .St. Johan of Lok's map, the C. .Sainct Jean of Thevet, the alternative St. Johan of Allefonsce, — the Hay of .St. John of Cajit. Jnhn Rut. The site of Boston Harbor, and the rocks anil islands ne.ir its entrance, are indi- cated, as is also the salient below Cohasset, — the site of the fourth tlag counting from the north, — and next the (jurnet, or possibly the salient of Manomet, on which is set up the fifth (lag. Against the coast between Cape Britain (Breton) and Cape Cod is the recognition of the discovery of the bay,' in the inscription " M.ir descu- bierta por ingleses." The fifth flag is followed by the scuyiu- nf Cape Cod Bay and the islands at the northern end. The larger may represent the part of the eminence behiiul I'rovincetown, and the smaller the bulbous expansion at the end of the low neck which runs out from Race I'oint. See Cap de la Franci-scane, on Allefonsce's map, referred to in his te.\t as C. de .N'orombergue. If it is obvious from the detailed map of the Coast Survey that I'rovincetown was once an island, it is equally obvious that r.imct River was once a i)assage through ; and that this was true of Boat Meadow Creek and Bass River Thus we see that tl;c present north end of Cape Cod may have been (in at least four ways) part of an island, five hundred years after the Saga of ICrik the Red required that it should be an island. J J 4 AND SlTi: OK Ills HOUSES IN VINELANU 49 a channel above the Highland I.iglit, and anulhcr at I'amet River ; or, as we liave seen, a clianncl may have been at Uuat Meadow River, where St)Uthack went throuj^li in the whaleboat in about 1717; or at Bass River, according to the tradition that one of the English ships in 1639 with the colony for New Haven sailed across Cape Cod; or as making to Verrazano the Island of Louisa, 1524. . . How WAS ALL THIS PoSSIIU.E ? To tlie geological student it is obvious, as already intimated, that the whole peninsula was originally a cluster of terminal moraines, which from an early period, under the influence of currents and tides and winds, have been coalescing, — tlie abrasion carrying the sand and fine gravel away from the parent mound in a talus along the edges of the stream. It will serve to make the matter more clear, if we dwell a moment on the geological history of Cape Cod. The region of the forty-fir>t, forty-second, and forty-third degrees of latitude was swept by an endless succession of glaciers, each succeeding the otlicr, as a general thing, leaving its terminal moraines a little less advanced, — giving us tlie ridges so incomparably displayed along the valley of the Charles above Waltham, through more or less of the town of Plymouth, and throughout the peninsula of Cape Cod, Martha's Vine- yard, Nantucket, and Long Island, New York. One sees evidence of them, possibly, in the fishing-banks of to-day. To see how recently some of these clianges have been made, compare the map of Captain Southack with tlw Coast Survey charts, — areas that were dry at low tide two hundred years ago are now at all tides under water; or com- pare them with the maps of Champlain, with the salient of the shallow terminating in Haturier. Currents have cut down mounds and dispersed them, or have filled uj) areas of slack water with drifting sand. The closing up of the mouths of harbors, and the projection of long narrow h ill jvjt the Cowyard, lliree miles away, as it is wiiere it si)rings from the mainland. Or, look at tiie beach that unites Sacpiish Head with the Gurnet, or that leads noith- west from the latter to Hrant Point. The translation of sand by water and wind is a familiar phenomenon on the south shore of Long Island, New York. Napeague Heach, near the east end, is a strip, several miles wide, of sand-dunes, now uniting Montauk with the portions of Long Mand farther west. The beach was at one time an open strait. Indeed, the Indian name, Napeague, — "divide under rcv;A-/-,"~ describes its larlier condition. West of East Hampton, along the great South Hay, and farther along down to Rock- away and Coney Island, beaches are continually opening and riosing, vanishing and re-forming. It is not improbable that the beach between Provincefown and the Highland has been repeatedly opened and closed. Some twenty-five years ago heavy storms occasionally made a breach over some jiarts of the Neck; and the Ciovernmcnt, alarmed at the possibility of the isol.a- tion of Provincetown, directed a line of piles to be driven where the danger seemed imminent. In spite of this, great alarm was felt during the winter of 1S8S-18S9, lest a break should occur. ;\ look at the detailed Coast Survey map will show, near the Hii;!iland Light Life- saving Station, how very narrow the beach is at the head of the swamp and meadow of the little bay which was open to Cape Cod Hay be- fore the breakwater tr.aversed by the railroad and highway was set up. (Coast Survey, Detailed Map.) It is not impossible that this beach, open at the time of Leif, was continuous at the time of Thnrwald and Thorfinn ; .again open at the time of Ruvsch, and closed toThevct; open again to Gosnold (1602), and closed to Prinne and Chani])laiii and the Pilgrims. The year 1889 has iT J s A ^ w ««•■«■ Hi Ji 1 \ ». v-r \ s <** t ■iz* '>^. •■: .1.^ ''^1^**... --;i.'^ ..; ^-~- .> i .1, V l"^^* J '"iff rf 5i, .'VUii'-iiiak'.i .^i- :-3/> ^r^s" -;^^?^-'f^*;^--'--'<-^»^^'iJ=^ '•^'KT^tsr' ftt>>*--^''= m- •<«~»« S-ff ■^^. V^ .tl ^fw V "•i ' \ '1 ^ .^^.M dg*'v* i ''>t 7 ... 7- ** Hh i .,"■- *>;. . ^4 f? :»l. " «/**^ ^ .'^" ;'^w jf, „ .:,i?\: ■ <;< 4 awi'-t'^'^r .:^"v *l ..t ft- * ^ -^'-^g. y^ r Tn'' r^':";^- •\4>, 1 ~^'tf,w:'- if.. :^^f H,/ -..^BK!*'---* <^3' , fi. ;^.- t t ■'' ' ' .X' .- f J". J I • 5 /:-P.- I L *j^>4 / i f IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // i/ 4f <. %

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SA Bt / at v''^ I lU Bj V 16 «>i * ' 3j' oi »t .«-,v(.<>i M '"t KUM 1 il>^ ^ »!«1 ^V'''^/* ^ A A *. 4 ..*•. * .. I •■1 $ Hm ^ ^^ i.r. I AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 51 witnessed such wearing away of the neck north of the Highland Light Life-saving Station, that vessels outside can now see through the depression the light on the point beyond Provincetown harbor. There can be nothing violent in assuming that the In. Baccalaurus, observed by the early Portuguese navigators and recorded by Ruysch, was in existence at the time of Leifs Landfall. It bore the Same name that it bears now, Baccalaurus, — " Cod." There is no more question of this than that the region north of Pamet River was an island in earlier times. i/» Let us now look at the detailed map of the peninsula of Cape Cod, which the Office of the Coast Survey has kindly permitted me to use. It enables us to realize that we have before us the portrait of a crescent- shaped cluster of glacial moraines. The last glacier had melted away in its seat, in Cape Cod Bay. The map shows the cliannels among these ancient moraines now closed at points; filled up with wind-blown sand, as at Bass Hole and Boat Meadow River; or shut in at the east end, as at Pamet River, and lastly near the Highland Light, where once may have been the channel that separated the island for Leifs Landfall. From the point of the Landfall which we have now reached, the dem- onstration that we stand on — Promontorium Vinlandia; — is established by the doctrine of exclusions. Let us recall the argument. TiiK Landfall. We reduced the range of its latitude to an ocean front of three hundred miles. Vincland required sand-beaches. The north part and the south part. Nova Scotia and Cape Cod, had extended sand-beaches. The part between — the State of Maine, like Newfoundland and Labrador farther north — had no sand-beaches. Vincland must be Nova Scotia or Cape Cod. It could not be Nova Scotia. Why .' Because Leif landed on the southern, after two days' sail from tiie more northern, of two sandy coasts. The island on which ho landed was on the north side of the mainland, -^■^ ' i ' !' if: 52 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, at the east of a bay opening out to the ocean on the north. The ccn- ditions are impossible for Nova Scotia. (Sec the Admiralty map.) Having determined the initial point of Vineland, the remainder of what is said in the Sagas may be studied as prediction, the verification of which must be sought in ancient and modern maps or other records, in the charts of the United States Coast Survey, in local histories, in the geology and geography of the region, and in field exploration. The discussion about the length of the shortest day as indicating the latitude, takes on its proper place. So, too, I.aing's stories of the grapes and of poor Tyrker, over which some conscious experts have waxed merry ; the white car of the unripe Indian corn being wheat (a grain that was not heard of here till Champlain brought it I; the trouble about the pro- fusion of eggs of water-fowl on Monomoy, even now described by sports- men in the terms employed in Thorfinn's Saga ; the pleasantry about Vineland's possible extension to Africa, and the early visit to Muitra- manna-land (White Man's Land) to the south, — all which may have interest to j)atient students, but has little or no necessary connection with the Landfall of Leif. The sixth point is that the Sagas alone yield a demonstration that Leif's Landfall was on Cape Cod. The Vineland of Leif lay in the forty-second and forty-third degrees. ^Lassachusctts also lies in the forty-second and forty-third degrees of north latitude. Let us become familiar with its ocean front.' ' Plwtoj^raphs of Afdfis of the A\"v Eni;/ami Coast from A. D. 1000, ch 1507 Siilij 1598 Verrazano (MaiolIo>) 1524 Mcrmm *. f French M.ip (The Oanphin) 1546 Cliamplain iftii Thevct about is?6 Coast Survey 1S86 Mercator . is^g These outlines m.ike sufficiently clear that the Rio (Innde of Ruysch. the Charles of John Smith, and the Norumbega of Allefonscc ami Thevet were one and the same. I'here is on one hide of ,Cr»« ■ : ^dr^fM r I ^•U ,s ^^i^s^'-"^. \''.\fc*r O^ l.-Cf BAV 1/ **« ] J.^a,. 1/ ) u»iia/i(iej( ^vH4^^ ififeia »•« cit\ K onm COSA I77S~ e^ra i^H4^ MovcL rfo.ncta> "'"^> ^ • O.Ji ^"'J'^t on Fcom tKe MolirxcauK Glob« J 597. 'Oan. Fi-om tKe Mol E Hm^awa K^«/e/ • ^^«'elo.f^cLrxCc5CQ.rte C«a>o die b«a.Tfc ■^ ^ C•U•A^cna« ifltaia "^ l£3 o <^* "^'^(i \j,: "'■'^'^-.t, on Fi-om tKe MoIImcauk Glob« 1597. >o"* BUTte /li VV4. iV«Nui|^«^< c-^>^ v^ V^- {jt'i^i Lrt-na. y^ytfUeb isu. 6p Sbtitft. IblJl \ y^hll^f* 'JL"^: "•fr UttlfA KOUSAS Co4*t 5ft>erey: /££^ vT ■' Ca^6 /i >!«« ' I i 1 ( 1 i t 1 f \ i • ; 1 .« \ % .....J A. AND SITE OK HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 53 Characteristics of the Region in the Latiti-de of the Forty- second AND FORTY-TIIIKD UeOREES. We have before us the region in which we are to seek for Leif's houses. It embraces tlic shores of Massachusetts 13ay. It is unique in its geography and geology. Its great salient, Cape Cod, is the most striking feature of the Atlantic coast between Florida and Newfoundland. The peninsula from Buzzard's Hay to the Race (the summit of the peninsula of Cape Cod) is a collection of terminal glacial moraines, gradually wearing away to constitute or to modify the banks and shoals that border the shores. At Portland, within a few leagues of the northern limit of Massacliusetts, sand-beaches, that have extended almost without interruption from the coral reefs of Morida to that point, practically cease. Maine, Newfound- land, and Labrador, at the best, i)rcsent uniformly sharp, rocky outlines to the sea. Nova Scotia presents a border of sand-be"aches. The brow of the one-hundred-fathom line that like a shelf, as Agassiz says,' stretch- in'' from the outer banks of Newfoundland to the Straits of Florida. the mnutli nf .-i river an Island Claudia and Cape Hrcton, and on tlie oilier Cape Cod. hearini; sometimes the names that have preceded it ; and much more that will reveal itself to a student ol the collection of maps. The eliief purpose in view was to show th.at there was a river having an archipelago at its mouth in the forty-third deforce. 1 have also introduced several other collections of sections of maps, to save space in illustration. Thcv will aid the student, and do not need to be particularizwl here. I'hotof^niphs of Afafis hcnrinii on the presence of an amient ah alhd Xaiumlvi;a on a river of the same name in the forty-third degree, showing that the name is the dialectic equivalent of A'or'iuay. Peter Martyr i52o-'!37 Mcrcatrir Wvtdiet '517 Solis ■ • • 'i"'7 naiipliin >M3-'546 Thc'et '55^ Mcrcator '5^") Mich,icl I,ok l?*' Jolin Deo M**" Jmlatis '5W Pietro I'lancic 1594 I)e llry '59* Wytflict IjW .Solis 59S Quadili . 1600 Hondius, Mercator ifioo CKimplain » Orlelius '570 .'inlij 1598 Botcro '603 > Cruises of the •' Wake." (See Hydrographic Chart of Atlantic Coast.) 54 THE LANDFALL OK LF.IK KKIKSON, comes U|) to witliiii twenty miles of the Ilij^lilaiul I-iylit on Cape Cod. It seems to marl; under water, in some degree, the area of glacial in- tluence. Iie)c)nd this brow sets abrujitly in the great deep of the Atlantic. Our Arctic Current, sweeping southward between the shore and the western margin of the Cjulf Stream, ha.-> influenced the history of the Western World scarcely less than the cod-fish, whose empire the .\rctic Current shares," from its great breadth again^t northern Newfoundland to its vanishing puint against Hatteras.'^ This current contributes, if it does not largely provide for, a maximum rise of tide in Massachusetts Hay of iVom ten to twelve feet, while immediately to its south — as on Nantucket — the average tide is but little over three feet. The change in the height of the tide is in keeping with a change in the temperature of the water. It is cold north of Cape Cod, when it is relatively warm immediately to the south. It was tt) this promontory of Cape Cod that the Ciulf .Stream (see Pilot Chart), brought navigators who had aimed to strike the coast at lower latitudes. V'errazano. for example, ignorant both of the power and direction of the Gulf Stream from the Straits of l-lorida, and of the eastward veering of the needle on the west side of the line of no vari- ation, was conducted by invisible influences to the north of his purposed destination, — latitude 34" north. The master of the "Mayflower" was alike the unconscious victim of the Gulf Stream and magnetic deviation.'^ Kunstmann's gap, on one of his maps of the Atlantic co.ist, illustrates the t ' The current varies from one to two .mil .1 li.ilf milis ,in lionr, wlicrc ol)scr\ations have licen nia>!e from some distance n(jrtli of lUIIe Isle. 1 North Atlantic I'ilot.) Anything more siiccitic I have not {ound. '' A buoy drifted, as related on page 39, in the outer margin of the outer current from off Cape Kace to Nantucket Shoals, through twenty and a li.ilf degrees of longitude and .six lUgret's of latitude, between Nov. 2, 1SS7, and Dec. 1. 18S7. (Ilydmgraphic liureau, W.tsh- inglon, D.C. Sec map of lo^s ' ( ^ p- f •Hv C' •■ »;"'■ ?. ,y. ". ^^^,■.' ■ 1 ^■ ^" <^ /}. e. c). -e* vl Wm M '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY 14580 (716) 872-4503 a^ > -^. ^ «- Wr 1 s y WAS THERE A CITY OF NORUMBEGA IN THE 43d DEGREE? PETER MARTYR. ORBI8 TERRAE C0MPEND108A DE8CRIPTIO n ::x ?«i,(pam ex iVi^niVhmeriMi Mercat-ong RTmmklasMrrciifQr fieri cmahat mfefc comoAore farmX a Hipron- P nrrn r ^^ ■ ' ' * II ■ ■ni l. I - I 1 1 ^ m : /;/ Mi f • LA A. L_-— ^,.^ ^^^— ¥^-^=^H-| Judaiis, 1593. />• /^^ iri' ':<^ Sp* PETRO PLANCIE, 1594. FROM THE MOLINEAUX GLOBE, 1592. -X "'^. o I 1i LI nub c. vT '< -w v> *./• v/' ^J^^^vV ^ /, Q ^_ *A \^ DE BRY, 1596. >:^^j-\^ WYTFLIET, isgy. %lta / \ r^^*j:^JJADUS, 1600 •=^/ HONDIUS MERCATOR, 1600. ORTELIUS, ,570. V" ^ SOUS, i:;98. d* I giKSi"'- AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 55 uniform experience. He did net sketch the coast, which it must have been guess-work to do. The cajje of the Bertomens (Cape Breton = Cape Ann) and the short section to the south including the river and the coast immediately following show where the trustworthy cartography ceased. Thus we see on many maps the Chesapeake Bay placed side by side with the Bay of St. Christopher (Plymouth Harbor), the interval spanned with a comma. Sebastian Cabot's map of 1544 covers it with a panther's tail. Navigators had failed to reach the intervening shores ; or if they did, had not found recognition. To this Gulf Stream and the Arctic Current, as well as to the north- east and southeast winds, so frequent against the great salient, and the trend of the coast from the north to the pocket of Cape Cod, may have been largely due, from very early days, the visits to our immediate shores of the bold adventurers — the Basques and Bretons, the Portu- guese and Spaniards — as well as of the navigators of England and France. Did the Basques early tind the Baccalaos, and carry the name to their language? Was Cape Cod — still bearing its red cedars, the He arb-cs — by metathesis become Brazil, which so long held its place north of the tropics? The fragment between Cape Cod and Cape Ann — this Massachusetts Bay, a crescent floating, a waif on the sea — was again and again placed on charts, with little or no extension north or south ; or attached to the cast coast of Asia, as on Ruysch's map. (See, for example, the maps of Schoner and the Lenox Globe.) It was the chance landfalls of the navigators tiiat revealed the presence of the cod, with which, as with the stock-fish, in Icelandic and Norwegian waters they were familiar; and its discovery on our shores ga\e, as we have seen, the great impetus to maritime enterprise in the north Atlantic in the sixteenth century. It was mainly that they might profit by the industry of cod-fishing that the Portuguese and French and English came to Massachusetts Bay. It was to the circumstance of finding the cod along the Massachusetts shore, 56 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, — the Bacca-loo' (the Indian name of the cod-fish) against the New-found- land of John Cabot, — with their supposed coincident range, possibly more than to any other one thing, that we ascribe the march of those two names, Baccalaos and Newfoundland, side by sjde northward along the coast. They paused awhile beyond Cape Ann (the earlier Cape Breton) with the Dauphin map and Vallard, with the map of 1544 ascribed to Sebas- tian Cabot, Gastaldi and RusccUi, with Merriam and Lok, against the Archipelago off the coast of Maine; and then with Diego Ilomcm and Mercator, carrying features of the cluster opposite the mouth of the Penobscot, presented on \^errazano's map, they were largely transferred to the mouth of the grcit River of Canada, of Jacques Cartier, — the river St. Lawrence. The great oceanic currents from the north nearer the shore and from the south farther east, and the prevalence of long northeast storms accom- panied by fog and rain, were prominent among the agencies that determined Bjarni's earliest approach to Cape Cod ; they were more or less the same that brought to the neighborhood of this bold projection John Cabot in 1497, and, as we have seen, the Bretons earlier, and the Basques possibly earlier still ; and later, the Portuguese, and Verra/.ano and Thcvet, and the Pilgrims. They were the same agencies that so long concealed from navi- gators' all detail of the region from St. Augustine to Chatham Light, ' See letter of Raimundus ; W'insor, vol. iii. p. 54. lltxaa, lioiii. Ditxi. llaros. occur on ancient mnps as geojjraphiral words up and down tlie coast on both siilos of North and South Aniciic.i, and on both sides of Africa The word /uuiii — coni- |)Oundcd of fii/i, "water,' and iiJtid, " lanil" - is obviously aulochtlionous Wlut seem derivatives enter into Kuropean langua/^os, ancient and modern. It is also Alj;on(iuiii for "sliect of still water,'' surrounded more or less perfectly by Lind. /.oo is still preserved in Mic-mac for "food " (Rand's Mic-mac Oiciionary) /{ t> " "f '" — 1 "- — - "■ 1607, and two years later to Hendrik Hudson. Early Outlines ok Southeastern New England. Let us glance at the coast of southeastern New England as preserved to us on earlier maps. I have added (see list, pages 47-48) photographic copies of fragments of a number of ancient maps, with some tracings and outlines of dates spanning a period of nearly nine hundred years. Promontorium VinlandiaL\ on the map of Stephanius of 1570, is a part of the record of the Landfall of Leif, and was first seen by him in the summer of 1000 a. d. In the explanation of the map, Stephanius remarks, as translated by Mr. J. Fulford Vicary, the author of "Saga Time": — "The Geographical Society in Copenhagen have published a chart in their eighth number for the year 1885-1886. The date of this chart is 1570. It is by the rector of Skalholt School, Sigurd Stephanius. The chart is based on the historical Sagas. " The explanation of the chart, as given by the worthy schoolmaster, Sigurd Stephanius, is literally translated. (Stii^n 7 tine, p. 197.) A. "This is where the English have come [Cape Ann to Marblehead], and has a name for barrenness, cither from sun or cold. li. " Tliis is whore Vinland lies, which, from the abundance of useful things or from the land's fruitfulncss, is called good. Our countrymen [Icelanders] have thought that to the soiif/i it ends with the lui/d sea, ami that a son mi or fjoni sepa- rates it from America. . . . C. "A rocky land often referred to in histories [I lelluland = Icaria = New- foundland]." A. " This IS where the Ettj^Iish have come, and has a name for barren- ness, either from sun or cohi" Looking at the outline across from Promontorium \'inlandia\ one recognizes the angles of the coast at the northern margin of Massachu- .setts Hay from Marblehead Neck around Cape Ann. This includes the site of the Landfall of John Cabot in 1497, the Cavo de Yngla-Terra 58 THE LANDFALL OF LKIF ERIKSON, (Enc^land^ Britain- Hrcton). the Cape Breton and St. Johan of Allc- fonsco in the forty-third degree. -the modern Gloucester, the (N)oranbega of Hieronymus Verra.ano's map (.5=9). and, possibly, the Normans O (Island), still preserved as Norman's Woe near Norman's Cove on the local maps of Essex County. .-.,,,, oo The angle at A is where, in my letter to Judge Daly, March ..1885 I placed the Landfall of John Cabot in I497- , , , • . The region occupied by the Skra-lings. in the neighborhood of which according to the Sagas. Vincland is to be sought, is at h on the west side of Massachusetts Bay. ., , , No rivers are indicated on the map of Stcphanms ; but on that of I ok which contains the chart of Massachvi^ctts Bay by John Cabot made in .497.and on that of Cosa, .500,-which I conceive to be the work of the careful sailor who made the voyage of 1497 ^vith John Cabot, and afterwards shipped with Cosa (who was not personally on our coast).- we have about midway of the bay. the mouth of a river confounded with a channel, connected with the St. Lawrence, and making an island as it also appears on Lok's map, and in it islands extending out ,nto the sea. On neither of the maps is the name of the river given; but on the map of Ruvsch (isoyX which includes the region from Cape Ann around Cape Cod 'to Narragansett Bay. we have the river and islands at the mouth, and the river called R/o Grande (R Grado, Portuguese). Alle- fonsee speaks (.543^ of the region as having been discovered by the Portuguese. , , 1 .1 Thevet gives the two names of the river which he heard, - the Acrcruncia of the Iroquois and the Norombegue of the French. On Mer- cator's map the name is Rio Grande, and the same on Soliss map, - on both of which we have the city of Norombegue. To the same nver seem to have been given various other names, including Gomez. Gamas. Gas. and Guast.^ less lasting. Verra.ano i^^2^^^^ it the name Angu.lenu^ the translation of the Algonquin Mis-sha-um (the great parallel-sided) 1 Gu.ist, an officer of De Mont's cxpcilition. O It, O H » t» g4 •\ / f -^ 1/ ^ RELATIONS OF ALLEFONSCE TO THE T\ IN THE 4;r AND THE OTHER BETW ?^i W ..6f^* 5 «» ?r. .4 ,oVy^^^ ALLEFONSCE, i543- ,,:'^^^U So ^MJintiv m\clo^M >:jTot^ ef> la^ ^rrc <:ft /<»ii i- ^ 'f>,^«>"<. rER CHAMPLAIN'S TIME. -.'"'^^^^iiil^^'i' ^ /_ /w-^^5->»c><6'^^r7-^ ^*5;^^ •4" p -^ ^' OUTLINE FROM ^ • COAST- SURVEY MAP • '""^aS^ r t i ,m»- s ^ % /■ ^^ . *■• .•r -(«#» ,^^»;v^" "s: At. ^ J^*^'**'"*''*^'^' ,»,-'?' '" * \ I- * M" ^ as o H i !2 '^^ { , ^^e*-ifta ANU SHE OF HIS IIOUSKS IN VINKLAND. 59 5 I ■i *: *^ it still bears, — the Charles. Kohl speaks of the alternation of the names Rio Grande and Norom- begiie, which, in common with Champlain and most other writers of the last three centuries, he confounds with the I'enobscot, — the Pentagoet of Maine. I may refer to the accompanying collections of tracings (see page 48) to show these alternations, and their uniform companionship with the island Claudia and what I conceive to be the outline of coast at Salem, which in my paper on the Landfall of Cabot I have likened, for conveni- ence and also an argument, to the capital letter M. They will leave in the mind of the student no douI)t on the point. 'I'hese sheets will also serve to illustrate various points to be taken up later. The main point to be established here and by these tracings is that the river midway between the Ca])c Breton of Allefonsce in the forty-third degree and the Carenas of Lok, or between Cape Ann and Cape Cod, having its mouth not far from Claudia, and having in and near its mouth many islands and rocks, is the modern Charles, finding its mouth in Boston Harbor in latitude 42 22'. We have been conducted to the fact of landing by Lcif on the shore of a lake. Let us now return to the Saga of l-irik the Red. ■L H D ss p '^ ^ r :3 '*; ;^ ■>. > ¥ ^3 '^ ,V S .N -3 s SUMMARV OF BjARNl's ReTI'RN X'oVAGE. Bjarni related ' that from the southernmost land he saw, leaving the land "on the larboard with their sheet on the land side," he sailed two da}S and two nights before he sighted land again. Now, assuming that the point from which he sailed was Cape Cod, and that the point ' See Appendix. fl 60 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, of land lie saw first, after sailing forty-eight hours, was Cape Sable, the southwest roach of Nova Scotia, we find, estimating by the scale on the map, that he had sailed about two hundred and seventy-five miles. Then he sailed with "a fine breeze from the southwest for three days and three nights," and "saw a third land, which was high and mountainous, wich snowy mountains." (Newfoundland is mountainous in the southern part, and has snow-covered mountains in the northern part.) " They let the sail stand [did not shorten], and kept along the land, and sazc it was an island" Then they turned from the land, and " stood out to sea with the same breeze" (from the southwest). But tlie wind increased, and " lijarni bade them shorten [equivalent to taking a reef], and not sail more than ship and tackle could safely bear. After sailing three days and nights,' they made, the fourth time, land ; and wlien they asked Bjarni whether he supposed this was Greenland, he replied, ' This country is most like what I have been told of Greenland. Here let us make for land.' They did so, and came to the land in the evening under a ncss, where they found a boat. On this ncss dwelt Bjarni's father Herjulf, and from that is called Hierulfsness." Let us glance again at the SUMMARV OF THE StORV OF LlCIF. Lcif bought Bjarni's ship. Bjarni's story was alro.uiy familiar to him. Leif organized a crew of thirty-five men, and .sailed in the .spring of the year 1000, reversing the track of Bjarni. in these days the story would be contained in the ship's log. He touched at the point Bjarni left last before reaching Hierulfsness, his father's residence. The Saga has preserved the name Lcif gave, — Helluland (flat-rock land). "There was no grass to be .seen ; there were large snowy mountains up the country." The shores were flat. Leif went on, still reversing Bjarni's route, till he came to the next ' PeringskjoKI s.iys four days and nij;lit». if AND SITK OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 6i salient, which was, in point of attractiveness, the opposite of Helluland. It was not mountainous, not rocky, not desolate, but wooded ; was skirted with extensive white sand-beaches, and inviting to settlement. He landed, examined, and called it Markland (woodland). He resumed the reverse route of Bjarni, always with a northeast wind, and in two days came to the most southerly land that Bjarni had seen. Leif's Route from his Landfam. to the Site of his Houses. We have followed Leif to his Landfall. We have seen that it was on an island at the north end of Cape Cod, now connected with the promon- tory. That this northern extremity of Cape Cod was the Kjalarnes of Thorwald and Thorfinn will become clear when we turn to the Sagas relating to these explorers. It seems better to present here the different relations, or versions, or English translations of the story of Leif that have been studied by me.' They sometimes vary slightly fiom one another, but occasionally in a most important way. I have thought to present the remainder of Leif's story in sets of corresponding passages. This will enable the reader better to see the field of study upon which conviction must largely rest, and per- haps better enable him to understand the method of research. "v Here follow, with Smith's, the corresponding passages in other versions of the story before me. Smith says ; '■ Returning to their ship, they sailed through a bay which lay between the island and a promontory runninr; toward the northeast, and directing their course westward, tliey passed beyond this promontory." Deamish: ".After that they went to the ship, and sailed into a sound which lay between the island and a ness [promontory] whicii ran out to the eastward of the I.md, and then steered westward past the ncss." ' I do nut (lislinnuish lietwecn different versions, diffrront relations, or different S.iga.s orTli.ieltir The essential thing is to gam the pictures impressed on dilierent minds by the same olijects 62 THE LANDFALL OK LKU" EKIKSON, Dc Costa: "Then they went on boanl, aiul sailed into a sound that was between the island and a ness that went out northward ixom the land, and sailed westward past the ness." yatms Eliot Cabot says, " steered westward." II. Smit/i : " In the bay there were shallows left of very great extent." Btawis/i : " It was very shallow at ebb-tide, and their ship stood up so that it was far to see from the ship to the water." De Costa : " There was very shallow water at ebb-tide, so that the ship lay dry ; and there was a long way between their ship and the water" Cabot : " There were great shoals at ebb-tide, and their vessel stood up, and it was far to see from the ship to the sea." The language clearly refers to grounding in an ebb-tide in the mud. If the bottom had been gravel, the ship, having a keel, would have careened, not "stood up." in." Smith: " So great was the desire of the men to land, that without waiting for the high tide to carry them nearer, they went ashore where a river poured out of a lake. When the tide rose, they took their boat and rowed back to the ship, and passed first up the river and then into the lake. Having cast anchor," etc. Inamis/t: "So much did they de--ire to land, that they did not wait until the water again rose under their ship, but ran at once on shore at a jjlacc where a river flows out of a lake; but so soon as the waters rose up under the ship, then li>iik tiiey boats and rowed to the ship, and floated it uj) the river and thence into the lake, and there cast anchor." D<- Ci'sta : " They were so desirous to get to the land that they would not wait till their ship floated, but ran to the land, to a place wlicre a river comes out of a lake. ,\s soon as their ship was afloat, they took to the boats, rowed to the ship, towed her up the river and from thence into the lake, where they cast anchor." Cabot : " Ilut they were so curious to fare to tlie land that they could not bear to bide till the sea came under their ship, and ran ashore where a river flows out from a lake. Hut when the sea came under their ship, then took they the boat and rowed to the ship, and took it up into the river and then into the lake, and there cast anchor." Arng;rimsson says, "moved," or " floated," -not moved it, but uioved loil/i it, as it floaud. il AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 63 IV. Smit/i: "They disembarked, and erected temporary habitations. Having subse- quently determined, liowcver, to remain there during the winter, they built more permanent dwellings." Beamish : " They brought up from the ship their skin cots, and made there booths. After this they took counsel, and formed the resolution of remaining there for the winter, and built there large houses." Dt- Costa: "They carried their beds out of the ship, and set up their tents. They resolved to put things in order for wintering there, and they erected a large house." Cabot : " Afterwards they took counsel to stay there that winter, and made there great houses." Arn^nmsson is substantially the same as De Costa. See Appendix. V. Smith: "Their dwellings being completed, Leif said to his companions, 'I pro- pose that our numbers be divided into two companies, for I wish to explore the country ; each one of these companies shall alternately remain at home and go out exploring. Let the exploring party, however, never go farther than they may return the same evening ; neither let them separate one from another.' It was so arranged. Leif himself, on alternate days, went out exploring and remained at home." Beamish says substantially the same. " Now they did so for a time." Dc Costa adds: "This they continued to do for some time." He uses "fellow- travellers" instead of "companions." Cahot says : " Hut when they had ended their house-building, then said Leif to his companions, ' Now let our company be divided into two parts, and the land kenned ; and one half shall ken the land, and fare not further than that they may come home at evening, and they shall not seiiarate.' Now so thev did one time, Leif ch;inged about, so that he went with them [one day], and [the next] was at home at the house." vt Smith: "So great was the goodness of the land that they conceived that cattle would be able to find provender in winter, none of that intense cold occurring to which they were accustomed in their own country, and the grass not withering very much." If 64 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, neamisli : "The nature of the country was, as tlicy thought, so good tlial cattle would not require house-tccding in winter, for there came no frost in winter, and little did the gras> witiier then." De Costa: "The country appeared to them of so good a kind that it would not be necessary to gather fodder li.)r the cattle in winter. There was no frost in winter, and the grass was not much withered." Cabot: "There was the land so good, as it seemed to them, that no cattle would want fodder for the winter. There came no frost in the winter, and little did the grass fall ott then." VII. Smith: The equality in the length of the days vi^as greater there than in Green- land or Iceland. On the shortest day the sun reniaired above the horizon from half- past seven in the morning till half-past four in the afti.'rnoon. Beamish: " Day and night were more equal than in Greenland and Iceland, for on the shortest day was the sun above the horizon fron half-past seven in the forenoon till hall'-past four in the afternoon." De Costa: "Day and night were more equal thai; in Greenland and Iceland, for on the shortest day the sun was in t!ic sky between tyktarstad and the dat^malastaJ!' Arngrimsson : Same as De Costa. Cabot: "Day and night were more equal than in Greenland or Iceland; the sun had there cyktarslad imA Jagmalastaii on the shortest day." The Saga says: " Meira var thar jafndaegri en a Graenlandi edr Islandi ; sol hafd thar cyktars-tad ok dagmala-stad um skamdcgi." Literally translated, it read.s, — " More was there equality-of-day-and-night than in Greenland or Iceland ; sun have there aftcrnoon-lunch-time and breakfast -time on the shortest day." Rafii translates the Saga into Latin as follows: — Ibidem major, quam in Graenlandia aut Islandia, fuit dierum xqualitas ; ubi dies brevissimus erat, sol ubi locum habuit (supra liorizontom fuit) ah liura ante meridiem dimidiata octava, usque ad horam quintam post meridiem dimidiatam. The mcanint; of ev^iars/ad w^^ discussed under the head of Lad/tide, and will be resumed further on. b4. AND SITE OK HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 65 VIII. Sniit/t: "It happened one evening that one of the company was missint^. This was Tyri riirrvnl. 2\ifa fniles fu iSt** JSthSfnittyif at* li*tJt1im tf f/ittfis not mtwh riUiVHt, jiW>rrV7f ^e Ja4fM ttmti f*^ ^iirttmt th*- tltMfi ^'ts up (he liiuMiu-t ,Ouf Ihr 1^ ttmWHf fnmi y,aul. He. . Mil*. Hi. . /;■<.■. a*. » Sli^a. 1 //'/. . lUii,-. ir.i. .. triiil'Jie, y- ■ linirrl. .«•. . fMi*. HJ!. . ,»irliv. ti.. fT«r . ! /inf. . ^»r.t. ; -till. , Sm,iH. in. . s»a. 1 '■ -26 l&it' 18 t9 16 U hi 17** IS If MMUv la J7H 16 JU\ Idi, TIDKS ;. Bii/h Wai^riiJI iiiff iri.imyi- lt(ISTIh\ U ^ Sfinitif li'i/fj rur //'*r.' A'nr/' ifli. ifo. H*^ .. Jfuiti n'st* uHtf fiiil of Ti'/t's JO ., I -ai jSi, i&a NOTK. "i/f Hi/it's .Siinkt^i /{iH-ic.. * Jutcff *t/Hn'f- H'ttfff. • /V*T* awtt.tA . # A/hm/. i^» /irfAtiffi.t. '■<:■ J0 17^ T7ir tiMuutiHtf.! iffffuM j/if tUttlfvl ■fuHint'ii nrt- fu)/'mtsrf/ 111 fi'rf.tJuijf witlfiHif lit tiithvunt at tnftiit Urn It'ntvr. S tor .Slriftni . -ta us =Si 09 as €7 OS OJ. as 02 26 - zs-\ 3:^8 3m 01^ OF m^mt ]immm m. COMPILED FROM THE LATEST SURVEYS, 7 — r<^^ S.THAXTER & SON i;;.^^ BEABINGS AND niSTAl^«l'. ♦»* DAKGUKS. Bearings & Distance of daB^ MmoCi livitfi' iiffltl HouM. t! Zfard/'iiffi ledffe S.E.^S. T/if'tves I«il4fe £. if •R:'* S. . . J5(fsft>n Z^dge- £.^Jir, .... Mar^ts Zedtfe X£.by E. ^^E. T*^ksburv £ockKE. %K Jtot* S\£. jr^ixA'sJfoiik S.W% TK €bmmi*nonans ZedgeK^z W. Jbtiiiy Jtodk^ S. Wbv v.. . "ReaTiniEJB nmlDiRtancp ftoT Whifing'j leH^ft' y.N.iV. V m SAoafSpofof'I'Jf^ d?.»r*v EordepOi of wafer ott ^ ah 24 .£&- i2- 21 20 i JM.'f*UJiai'i{E.^'X'^^\'.!i^ tm'/f.v ti'om Lonj Islanrf lfj//if tittrf UlhyW^^V. frtpnt Jiosfort fJifhf 1tovse.iH,tftmcr l\ nufe^. A^tm* Xetlijc lletitv ihtm lAHuf Monti ^^f/UKfyi^%N:^HsfanceJmil^uearfy,Ihitn Zfosfon LiifM JV.^^E. 7% tuiA^r ^/fft'tiVft/eif Zet/^e hfurs troiii Zonff Jshuul Ziffhf E.hy ^^''SKditfanee 2 nifles^ ttefit-ty'. Fmtm Jftt^-fott lufh'tJiou.veXW.IfyJf.ffisfatu^Jh mile*. ^ Fm- Jefittt lif^mafrr ON fhe afhtve iianijers.ste Ch4irt. 2'h*^' orr tuttnv i-otiks Hittf A'i^o/^fjf m iJte rmnify of" Broad, Sound rtladre fo llif ttt^tth tiro'i /Kutt'ttoiv of which ,nSfe iTiarf. Zou«/ Ijshnut Zufht. unit Ji,f/ Lufhf on Sfn* in ntfUfe t^ear^ (he ffanh'ntfW.niuVfetuh fo ht/oy oh dflJfotik .off J'S JUrrfon . doing up thv W. nuintief tti^iHie/c tntv.rriTy^.rhouM he tohett iwffoahjtf (,\,vern4H>; PORT .1 Dn ^ ft rr R r 0'2 7roo 69 68 6? se .SJ Ji yZedtfeZufMBouM. S.K^£. 6%Tni/es neewly 'mff .sledge S.£.^ S. 2»3. do. -js ledge KbySi^sS. :&$..do. nZed^K^W. J^ do. i.tIeti*feM£.byE. \K . 7^ do. w^^l{oehJ!ir.X.%£. 2h do. S\E. * do. tJ(o4* .f.W% jr.. ...h.. do. isitionav2etfyeJr.'/2 JK 7'/. .-£'»**^ ., r% 12.-' '^-t 4 lit..' ,;«,&;- iy ■1^ .33i yy jiT* ^^^^ JW ^yj' 7*2 i^'-9 K^ *kt:r 7 a ,tn* * ,^ ''^^ ,^^^- «U^t* o" ^ * S _JP5^ J3 -^ «V ^-j f>S ''l^' j.,i. 7 /f >». fs^^r. ^^1. Jd 6B A^ SI AO 49 48 7 Wt &i n L- 13^ ^m. 2^ ^7 \sJt* ^* 3 U ^.. SanOfri,^^ 25^4 20 20 r>* "^^^ 26^ 2JV4. J7 23 20 20 19 20 treat lott^ 26 iS^k Jfp ike S^.Th a ^rt ofh is d6*ng. *ti down fftrJin TGi 26h 27^2 20 cr.H. 26 16 J7 77 16 iGii,. je*i. 24H, 2&i 2^j^ ctt. m-. Id 26 U 279» 28 2jp% Tird. Jtrd. j>^. st \ «m< - ^^ 2i^ 2pi 26 19 19^ Idi^ J6 17 hrd,. 2i^ '7 16^ r7^* 22^ 2^ /o 2»M 14 22ft 18 24^ M. 27'yi 23H 20 ^^ (»j^*'' ^^ d 11 23 26 i3 22 n 22 7 "^^Lf:- J -iiaStifa^v 72 23 25 '^^* 24^ 11% 22 22 IW^ 25 23^4^ 7<^ 26 14^ xnt. *f, 22 2i^ 26 26 13%^ 2& ■It. m,f 20 1* 12 .rf. ^'^ 28 \1(- lO^ltaMA 48 47 4€ 4S 44 i iQ 20 KeuHdu on fkip Set ul' fht> riirr«>n1. Ufa miles tu ihe^ JSashftinf ofJttNtHunLf Ihn^fis not muctt^ current t he6rem^&i€> jMfkt and P*^/eriitn /Jw iltw*1 •tett itf» f/te etumveJ ,(mf the etib amtotff front JHIftn&Mktt tfnf, >wfs ,um>fwlm( tnTikt.t tfir eliattnel fowurifs ike S^. TJie ffooti Jtris sfrani/ tiatnufh' Jifarlc Jfitek fhnnnf't mi to Gettrifett ijhtml.lhe ebbseSt out ^tOvn^ thrtniffk Iht' .»////»• rfnmH*f,nnt1 i-ensi^a itmi- m^ domt' fivnv the IfarroW'S.iov in i'/nnt/t>r o^f/fintf t>irn'tv7 hv it on Ifintini/'s ledffe.ar ti^^ the (Tutnnd. hi ffif M/nirtot'the AifirfiHCt, the flootl ihirintf . a ^rt ofifsperioti seti 6/ the Stmffmtirtl , (att in mtf .ffivntj. Ttte rtih whu'^ is j6wNff, sett to the Nor^ward , and tfretfrnnv o iftnttt workno/ mtset to hraf down ^teMvrrows tugaittsf an ehh eitrrenf. v-2e Abrevuriions iiM'd in the liolfoius of ihifi OihtI . vu tbr .'Ifiiff . • sf. far SttnteJt. \ Itrlt. tvrJtnihen. /// ^..Fine. frs..-. fitnrse. st/i. . Stirhv. ^nn. . .. Stnoll . r 25 a... -. gr. ^. .Staid. 6k.. .S/teOs. I hu. .(Srtvrd. \ifk. (toy . .Swft ,. Jiltu*. .. Mue. .Pftrk. hni...H..jff(ifrd. '7 Ara. Ji8!^ Iff^ 18 TIOE S Si4fh Water FiiU and lltonf/e JiOSWN U. i^ Spring HiIm rise IhitT JTenp do. do. ffh „ I^MMv rise and fitll' ot'JtJes J(t „ NOTE. Sonifies Sunken Jiot^k ♦ Jtitek n'fffirc Wolev. • JltH'h fmn.ih . . • ShtMl. ^^ Fathoms. <^.) JJte smauiiHffs within .the ttoHe»i snitiire.t are oftntKmt in tiTt.t/ntse wiihonf »> ioUnmis at mnm low Water. Muov f> ^.tin-Hetl. ^.tbrnineh. S tin" Sfriptd . -24 -23 23H -22 7% 14U i(^ IS 26 24 16%. li 'U -20 J»- 10 J7 t:^ R 76*- 2& Azy t R V SAILING lUREt^TIO^S. WAf'u itetfr Mmof,t Kedtfe , Miuf tfir I.iifhf to iM'ar S.E.hy Xarnf .tftw X. W. ftr y. laUti h*09ttm liifht lmir« V.Xif.oit wMrh beotiittf Jct^p it tuui tnm Hit if ttnfi/ n'ifhin /^ itn'it-s ot'f/ie I.itfht . Jloint ^Ihrftm wiM ifteti /tfftr S. hi "•/ h'. 7v fuift'.r tfijtfauf . itml ymt H-Ht hare a clepfh o/'IH fhthoui.t H'tittT, titoit .tfttr ft'. tuaJiirtif th** i^mrjif. ffw^t .uhHI fh** /<**•// /MjJ»f on f/tr Spif fftttra JT. W. *8 n^rtut for if antl ji'ou -H'itt jnut^ a short (iMtatu^Xa^'t from the hnoyjf oft fihc li^ftuvion. Give tfte Liffhf on the Spit h jtmai/ t/erth /fttiinff it ott tfir ^fafifoavd hiuuJ^4it*^l ■.tlrer jV. K *:i Ifext ' tit/tiftf/ <>//>• fo itttfhe a*ioH'Oftt!e fiir^/te tHtntvtt m* 'r/ston ffttrttor bv t/ie tray ot\lInuu7 Sound . utar tntnifZo/u/ Lfu/tf7 lit/7tf to fttfir S.W. h W.on whii7t /H'uriuff7ttftp it,nH4l rnu tor if .unfit, ni/ftiu 's iniJt' of^tTtf J.i«/hf,ir7ufi t/tf ttfUfw is a.v ti7H>vf. 71u>rf is iinofher ihann*7 fa enter ttt*^ Harttot' ffinntyh Jirvad. StnoHt.tbr iftforrnatiort m rel4itLOTV fo if see stuUny lines on Chjorf fur dimtions fo ,rail Oft t7ie Typstem or Imck vniy. see fhtirt. Jieti(in.,- n:-Jutj to. In t4'iii^natm ff.f jrntr /Sti.i l\ SMn-irt /! Otr.iiiy in ik»tUribr Offtm ar'^Z'uinet Omrt rf i^ jfutrut oT Munteatttn . JUUM 'rw fvi/'i^ 1 k^V^*'' "• "*' :&,.r^<^:r,.^-''^^- •%:S .^1 ^iil 6«4..R. US!"*"- "JiiVifir 2«> •>!?««., N?l r1^ Js. 3* ^.,,3H -.. 7 ...-I ..*•.*!' WAor KM--r.:-if *• /r'A* 3»» ^OwJr'v /**^ '^*? ■» J3'*l'''''vJ».' iJlt Jto«*9 U-W!"* 9L»- fftrw ■<=fe^|j^.. ffo»'jr ^^ .^"^a -o ef ""-^M r^.f^v ^«<4fe -^ *''^hef0a ^ i?l6. 3^ ■■;j?;j"' :??» .^>vi^^;:/-SS ■';^> •fi^' j*«rifr <^.'* «r ;:a.v Id ■■ft-;-: /I i*^-/*.- w i^' "'. .rf ff 7-k 7% 9% fff* . it Wi 2^4- 7^* ^ 1 ^^■'■■■- tt'. (fis fpt to ,f*. jr. tf af<^ .^.• If s •^ - •'i* »5 .^ {"A Mr Murtiu/t '■ Well m ^ a «««. '*r/r -^Wl •i>W^*V-v* COHASSE' ■1" SO 54r S3 S2 Si 49 4» aJ^.T^TTT ^m-: 'rhi.'Ri i.i-iijfc -/» m ■ >^ > '^ *^ v^' O 7 Photographic Sciences Corporafen \ S ^ ^ ^ :\ \ ;\ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 <^ ... .J ■;■> :■ tvl'^-^'-'^'*'^--*'''^'*-'^'''''" " 5- 1 aUHMOO V.-. ■"■■'■■■ I ^a»v^trw^-^ I* ( ■ "% ^.'•^•^:^i^^^^>»!:i^jm.^^-;^r^^-^"' RIVER FLOWING THROUGH A LAKE INTO THE SEA' VINLAND OP THE NORTHMEN CopieH cJi^der Ir^striictior^ by Geo. DaVis, Civil Erpgii^ecr. ^J^ ^^ Scdtie of Miles. . ftf 2a' » = ^IJE Of LEIf '5 )4odSE5. n E TT irH ELSE jJ I — -4 ':J3osTON 'C^ 'RIVER FLOWING THROUGH A LAKE INTO THE SEA' VINLAND OP THE NORTHMEN 6opiecl Cii^cler li^slrlictioi? by Geo. DttVis, Civil Ei?^ii?e«r. '/> A I J^ ScAie of ^iieft. x = §IJE Of LEIf 'S floiJSE5. ¥iH a N (T I U nJ- ^ •;■ ••c«rB/ rp-r / ^ 4 /. A O ) / \ A f «»*,«,, ■ 1 ■ » •■ *> 1 / ■■^^ ■'^ "I, // « ( A nS H )i »* (1 •,' !! iX AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 67 / / WM the rettirn 0/ the tide they rowed to the ship. They floated up the river on the flood into the lake, and there cast anchor. Except at high tide the vessel (it was a merchant-ship) could not enter the Charles near and below che Brookline Bridge. Thorfinn states this later of his vessel. There is no practicable landing-place going up the river between the Back Bay proper and Symonds's hill, near Gerry's Landing, — against the foot of Appleton Street, Cambridge.' " They brought up from the ship their skin cots, and made booths. After this they took counsel together, resolved to remain for the winter, and built there large houses." THORWALD'S EXPEDITION TO VINELAND. Exploration of Charles River westward from Leif's Houses bv Thorwald's Men. " Now Thorwald [a. n. 1002] made ready for his voyage with thirty men, after consulting with his brother Lcif. They rigged their ship and put to sea. Nothing is related of this expedition until they came to Vineland, to the booths put up by Leif, where they secured the ship and tackle, and remained quietly all winter and lived by fishing." Thorwald mentions the abundance and size of the salmon. I have a salmon-sinker of stone picked up on the bank of the Charles, near the site of Leif's houses, and I have seen and photographed four others found within a short distance of the memorial terrace in front of Professor Longfellow's house. " In spring Thorwald ordered the vessel to be rigged, and that some men should proceed in the long-boat westward along the coast, and explore it during the summer. They thought the country beautiful and well wooded, the distance small between the forest and the sea, and the strand full of white sand. There were also many islands and very shallow water. They found no abode for man or beast ; but upon an island far toward the west ' See map of the "river flowing through .1 lake to the sea." lit 68 THE LANDKAI.L OF LEIF ERIKSON, they found a corn-barn constructed of wood. They found no other trace of human work, and came back in autumn to Leif's houses." This was the first exploration of Charles River by Northmen of which we have record. " They thought the country beautiful and well wooded, the distance small between the forest and the sea ; '" thai is, as far as tide-water ex- tended, the margin of meadow was narrow, and the upland covered with beautiful forest. This very well describes the narrow strip of meadow between the rise of land on either side and the immediate bank of the river, as far as VVatertown, — the head of tide-water. " The strand was white sand," as contrasted with the black mud of the meadows along the margin of tide-water. " There were also many islands and verj' shallow water." There arc several islands in the expansion of the river between the Arsenal and the higher lands, about a mile below the Watertown dam. There are also occasional islands between Watertown and Waltliam. From these to the bridge below the Boston and Albany Crossing there is the group of many islands, a cluster of summits of ancient moraines against Fort Norumbega. Several of these are now but three or four feet out of water, as those opposite the mouth of Stony Brook. Thcu may have been more before the erection of the dam of some ten feet at Waltham. There are many islands above the Boston and Albany Crossing, at Wcilcslcy and Needham and in Mcdway, and one in Winthroii's pond in Holliston. The shallows alternate with still water throughout the whole distance ; they are the sites for mills and manufacturing establishments along the river, for some thirty miles or more. The single wooden corn-barn observed on an island " far towards the west " points to the growth of the grain, and perhaps to the prudence of the natives, in securing the corn against squirrels or other rodents by a belt of water. There are extensive plains in Millis and Medway and Hollis- ton, along the shores of the Charles and Bogasto (Norse, Borj^ar-s/o?). Throughout this plateau corn is now a regular and successful crop, and ■■ wm AND SITE OK HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 69 here I saw in 1889 the loft of a barn filled with cornstalks intended for fodder for the cattle. The description of the Charles River in the few sentences quoted might challenge in its completeness any effort of a surveyor or engineer of to-day. Thevet wrote of it as "one of the most beautiful rivers in the world." To him it bore the Iroquois name of Agoncy (or Agguncia) ; and he and Allefonsce knew it as the Norimbega and Norombergue, and it was known before and after that as the Rio Grande, a name given by the Portuguese navigators (Ruysch's map) as already mentioned. " Exploration of Coast Northward and Eastward from Mouth of CuARLKs River, hv Thorwald. The next summer (1004) Thorwald, with a portion of his company, in the great ship coasted along the eastern shore, and in passing round the land to the northward encountered a violent storm. They were driven by f I the storm against a neck of land, and the keel was broken off.' Here they remained for some time, whilo they renewed their keel." Then Thorwald said to his companions : " Now let us fix up the old keel on this neck of ' The accompanying cut. from Du CliaiUu's " Vikin;; Age," shows how the keel was attnched, ami how it might be wrenched off, and tlie necessity of being able to get iimh-r the luill to make repairs. ' Thorwald .and his men set up the broken keel on a sandy cape, and called it Kjihrnes; .iiul Thorfinn found an old keel set up in the sand on a sandy cape. The sandy cape was not far from ; i 70 THE LANDFALL OK LEIK ERIKSON, land, and let us call the place Kjalarncs " ' (promontory of the keel, or keel promontory). This was their first i)romontory, as vvc shall later sec, — the Promontorium Vinlandia.- of Stephanius's map. the promontory f.imili.ir to them all .is shown in the S.ig.-i, antl not far from where in turn Leif, Thor- walil, 'I'horfinn, and Kreydis had dwelt in Leifs houses on the shore of a '• like throujjh which a river tlowed from the land and passed into the sea." This was the Hi^p of I'horfinn, defined to be a •• small l.mdloiked li.iy, salt at Hood-tide and fresh at ebb." Such a Hdp lies at the northwest of the Cape Old of tiosnold, widiin a distance of forty miles. The convex coast of Furdustrand, — the Tromontorium Vinlandia? of the map (jf Stephanius, with its deep bay on the west, like our Cape Cod and Cape Cod l!ay. which we recoi;ni/.e to be the only great he.idland and bay on our c «ist looking nortliward with clear e.vpanse to Newfoundland, will find place for discussion on other ,).ajj;es. On the titlepage I have placed a picture of a legendary cut. It is of a small t.iblet, a few inches in length, of which a photograph, procured by Mr. Andrew K. Ober of Hevcrly, lies before me. It was taken, some years since, from a grave in Essex County, .iliout forty miles from Cape Cod across .\Lissachusetts Iby ; and a sketch of it with the date has been preserved by I'rofessor I'utnam of the Peabody .Museum. With it were other articles, as a circular brass shield and remair.s of an iron axe. The tablet may suggest pictorially —the story of Thorwald's kcLl, with its curved end set up in the sand. And with this hint one has an idea, as one studies the lines, of the method by which the wrecked vessel was disjjosed in a cr.idlc and transported on a r.aihvay with skids up the slope of the neck into position for repairs. The tablet seems to suggest a considerable line of movement, and a change in its direction before launching. The large Coast Survey map, assuming the wreck to have occurred on the nick between the Race light and tlie bulbous end of the cape looking soutlnvard, will help the student to form a conception of the course pursued in the extemporized shipyard nine hundred jears .igo. The cut introduced from Uu Chaillu will dlustrale how the keel w.is attached. It is not without interest that something like this picture, including especially the elevtition, and a suggestion of oarsmen (the dots stand in early Icelandic for units, and here possibly for units of oarsmen), exists in the centre of the inscription on Dighton Rock. This part has been pronounced by an accomplished expert (see Schoolcraft), familiar with the meaning of Indian characters, not to be of Indian oriuin, while all the rest is the work of Indians. ' Danish. Wiicjy Swedish, «(7J/ Anglo- S.ixon, «rtf.t. .W'fj is modern English. SS.\( Ml SI I ItlT.-i 1U, X«Tt)^lti'lll Tf.ll- ../„. .v„,„ „„„.»./,•... .. V h M llul- .1 SI II. ■„„l,i ,V 11;,../*.//' II 1:7 I /•i:irr/:iisi iKIhl'liinl .1— :•'"!" 9 i»r*' ^ix»n IP .1 1 ss.\( III si/ns ^ Siiili' '.ClIlOll ] IBT.'i . f>. nnfff'1'tii iiK.l I'ift r.fi'ntm f'.X.t. im.-. ,iifl IHtU lii:.i .if't tHi'ii ■„„i,i M ii;„, /*.,// II \ .\r,ii.,,n/,i, r .\..y .„„i *„lur,ti '*■'■' •If I 1^1'" 1-7 I rnlTTKHHOH Xuiii'n'Irmlnil S4 40 U. '» 'D B Ifluh /V*i.- It wrf ^iwn |» NU mi l.ttw U'nltT iilinii fkn«iMf(i- l^lv* irAIHI* .nut ..lr.llrvi»r "111 llirt iln. Awi ilgi> til II . d.. .!■. IIT- ila 'lu Kit . J. .Ill .1" 0.7. .Ill tLfi. at- >l«Mwi«...o , L». .1.7. ->Hi-^4jilli^H It h 1 ''M M AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 71 Smith says of Thorwalcl (page 112): " Having done as he desired [set up the old keel], they sailed along the coast, leaving that neck to the eastward,' and entered the mouths of the neighboring bays, until they came to a certain promontory which was covered with wood," — the Gurnet. It was larger formerly. The mass of bowlders extending out from its base show that the bluff has worn away, especially on the east side. " Here they cast anchor and prepared to land ; and Thorwald and all his companions went on shore. Then said Thorwald, 'This is a pleasant place, and here I should like to fix my habitation,' " — " my farm," Laing ; " my abode," De Costa; "my dwelling," Beamish; "my dwellings," Cabot; "my home," Arngrimsson. > Over this passage much thought has been expended. lieamish snys: "After tliat they sailed away around the eastern sliores of the land and into the mouths of tlie friths which Lay nearest thereto, and to a point of land which stretched out and was covered all over with wood." Arnj;rims- son says, "eastward off the shore." (See Appendix.) If tlie vessel .sailed around the island and cape, eastward, and then southward along the east face of t'l.c peninsula of Cape Cod, it would come to Nauset (Norse, A'aes j and Algonquin, et. — newt the Cape) headland and harbor and strait, open to Captain SouUiack in 1717 through to Cape Cod li.ay. Il Thorwald went farther south, he would cr.counlcr Point Care and I'oint Gilbert of Dr. De Costa, - and possibly more prominent at the time of I.eif than at the time of Champlain, — who gave the outline of the coast and the bays. Champlain encountered Indians, and had several fights wilh thcnv If this latter be the correct understanding of the Sagas, the place where Thor.vald landed, admired the ncss as a possible future home, provoked a battle, w.as wounded, died, and was buried, may have been in the region of Chatham, to which Thor- finn came later. This does not commend itself to me The ui.iform persuasion, in which I have shared, that Krossa-ncs (the crosses at the promon- tory) was the Gurnet, was supported by the name C. St. Croix on the .nap of Vall.ird de Dieppe (•543) '' 's entitled to more study. Accepting this view, it is obvious that if I.eif's Landfall co- incides with Kjalarnes, Thorwald, in sailing to the westward, — that is, in leaving the neck where he h.ad been wrecked, to his eastward, — did substantially what I.eif did ; that is, "he sailed through a bay." He more closely followed its shores. It follows that the "certain promontory" was approached by sailing, as a whole, westward. To Leif this promontory bore northwest and southeast This is the second promontory observed by I.eif, by Thorwald. and by Thorfinn when he went westward to Leif's houses from Kjalarnes seeking Thorhall. To Thorwald there was within this promontory a bay of san|ilur and San Antonio. St. John the liaptisl. I'arailisi) and Refugio. Is possibly a herilaj;c from ISisliop I'psi who came here in ii;i, or from some of his siuiessors, preserved liy the people of mixed descent found lure by the French. To the Church must also be ascribed the names I'aradiso and Kefuj^io on the maps of (iastaldi, Ruscelli, \errairani>. I Ipius's globe, and in the text of Thevet. iUino's Cluvcriiis. and ()j;ilby. (See Ilefenc es of .Norumbepa. 1891.) ' The archipclaj;!) of Hoston H.ay and that off the coast of Maine confused the cartographers, Rio Cirande appeared at sever.d points. • Mii \ha-um, "great par.dlcl sided river;" that is, Uij; F'el. • Thcve', Monlanus. De Lael. : / } ri'^'i — . — STRAUMEr , S BAY WHERE SERVANrS WERE WE: ,,,,,5.. ••SENT TO THE SOUTHWEST \flSif.., , . . • • TO STRAUMFJORD iURTtti aw «?' "^K m.VrwSkoil-tliMnimnF'fi-'Uif lua ■i-^ V! \! 1/ \ \ % \ / / /! t . [' \ 'if T' -\-- - -.1.1^ ajjnut»flij « .:ib. AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND 73 " Having returned to the promontory, they looked round and saw in the inner bay several elevations,, which they considered to be habitations." Such or similar structures were seen in the same region, were figured by Champlain six hundred years later, and indicated on maps and a globe of earlier date.' " An innumerable multitude of canoes were seen approaching from an inner bay, by which Thorwald's party was immediately attacked." In the fight Thorwald was fatally wounded. He requested tliat lie might be buried on the promontory. " Tiiere bury me," he said, " and place a cross at my head, and another at my feet, and call that place for evermore Krossa-nes " (Cape of Crosses). Sailing past the Gurnet. Careful reading will satisfy the student that it is recorded in the Sagas that all except Freydis sailed past the promontory of the Gurnet, as also did the unfortunate Thorhall, — the latter sailing only southward. All except Freydis came to Lcif's houses. 'V i The Significance of Carenas cannot be overestimated. The significance of the name Carenas on the map of Michael Lok of 15S2, as the probable heir of Kjalarncs, the name of the cape on which Thorwald's vessel was wrecked in 1004, greatly impressed me some years ago, as indicating the region of Vincland. Was Carenas the spot where Thorwald and his men set up in the sand the old keel that had been broken off \\\\QK\ in a storm his vessel had been driven on shore? Carenas was a very simple instance of metathesis : Carenas = Karanes. On another map (Merriam ?) of about the same period, and nearly against the same geo- graphical point, occurs P. Coaranes = Promontorium Coarancs.' (Ice- ' l.uni^d I'lllit. on tlie m.ips of M.iiollo and Hieronymus Verr.izrino, and the glohe of Ulpius. '■' Kjiiliiiiiis is tlie yenilive ot A'/ii/)tii\ ; A'jii/r is AVt'/, aiul Hit is iiixe. or pronioiilory. K/o/rnes as iitlcrcil liv a native Irelaiidcr. anil ('otiniHfs by a Kiiro|Haii of lower latitude, differ but little from catli other 74 THE LANDFALL OK LEIF ERIKSON, landers to-flay spell the name Koarancs, leaving out the o and accenting the a, and giving it an accent equivalent to oa.\ There is also on the same map, and next in succession against the same promontory, C. de las Arenas. It is indicated both by the contour of the coast and Ny the geographical names for a considerable distance on either side. In the same geo- graphical order of succession on either side — that is, at I he same point — there are on maps of earlier and later date C. des Sablons (1543), C. de arenes (1556), C. de arenas (1569), C. de Arena, — all of the sixteenth cen- tury, and the Cape Cod of Gosnold in 1602, and C. Blanc in 1604 of Champlain. It is impossible to escape the conviction that they all be- long to and qualify points on, or very near, the same geographical salient looking northward at the southern limit from the forty-third degree. This is our Cape Cod. How obvious is the thread of white sand running through these names from the Kjolrnes of icxx) to the Cap Hlanc of 1604-1612-1632 ! The promontory to which it applies is stamped on the map of Stcphanius, deduced mainly from the Vineland Sagas, and continued down to the Coast Survey map of to-day. T mm r.--i'. - R.„s o. EK.K-S HO.SH w..nKB T.„.K,,.. .M> C;unK„> W.KH M.KK,.,. (l.o. Second Oe.n,a„ Nor.,. Pole Expedition, damn, Vuc^cry 0/ .Immm). SKETCH OF THE THORFINN EXPEDITION TO VINELAND. T N tliis enterprise three or more ships took part, and altogether not A less than one hundred and sixty persons, of whom at least seven were women. They were provided with supplies of cattle a.^d whatever else mi^'ht be needed for settlement in a new country. Tho^'rfinn Karlsefni, with his wife Gudrid and their companions, embarked on the ship in which Thorf^nn came to Greenland the year before Snorri Thorl)randson went with liis own ship and company. Bj.rni Grimolfson and Thorhall Gamlason sailed in the ship that brought Tliorbiorn to Greenland. Among the women besides Gudnd. the wife of Thorfinn, was Freydis, the half-sister of Lief, the wife of Thorvard. These vessels sailed southwest from Eiriksfjord,^ Greenland, in the sprin.^ of .007, and arrived in the neighborhood of Boston in the latter part of May, soon after the time of corn-planting,- the spawning-season; that is, the time when tlie f^sh go up the rivers and smaller sti-eams, to . The modern Igaliko Kjord See NordenskjoWs Den andra Dicksonska expedition en till Gri5nl.ind. 76 THE LANDFALL OF LKIF ERIKSON, il i deposit their spawn where their eggs have greater chance of protection at the time of hatching. The fleet — pcrliaps not Including Tliorliall's ship — remained in port for two months, during whicli time Leif's houses, lent to Tliorfinn were surrounded by a stockade for the greater safety of Gudrid and her housi'hold. Here Ciudrid and Hjarni and a iiundrcd men remained; while 'Jhr^rfinn and Thorhall, witli two vessels, went southeastward to Kjalarncs and Straumfjord (Cape Cod and Ciiatham). Corn was now in I'le ear. After a short stay, Thorliall, who desired to explore Vineland, sailed northward round the outside of tlic cape, hut when he turned westward was blown out to sea and lost. Thorfinn went to seek him; but nut finding him after long search, returned to the site of Leif's houses. Let us proceed more in detail. The events of the Thorfinn -Sagas grouj) themselves under two heads. Under the first head fall the discovery of tiic two harbors on the outside of Cape Cod; the three days" tour of the Irish* servants; the story of the long narrow island of Straumey, of which the present Mo- nomoy is the southern extension ; the story of the narrow strait (Straum- fjord) between the Straumey and the mainland at Chatham, of the count- less ducks' eggs, and of the Wunderstrand (or the I-'urdustrand, so called), the convex sandy shore, — so wearisome is the pursuit of a vanishing horizon, along a cur\e of constantly increasing radius, to Nau- set Harbor!^ ' Irisli anil Scot were tlic s.ntne. - Tliortinn's S.i;;a mentions going south along tlic I'unlnslr.iml, anil s.iys it was uvniliijul, iH'caiise it seemed si> Umi; to sail p.ist it. It was curved. The .Saga says, "TliiKi; m.(MN to ii|- <<)Vks." A glance at the det.iiled (.'oast .Survey map of Cape Cot have prevailed. In still e.iilier times the whole salient was a cluster of detached niornines. These gridu dly coabsced under the influences of winds, waves, tides, and the .Arctic current. Once I'.imet Kivcr must have been a str.dt. The eastern end of the v.dity must have been open to the sea The swamps and ponds farther south with scattered dunes show that there were numerous coves between I'amct River and the |ircscnt entrance to Nauset HarUir. Champlain s maps and (losnold's rel.itions. to which Hr. Oe Costa has called attention, show that the present prolon;;ed continuous be.ach is relativily modern. It is obvious that there must h.ivc been coves in Thorfinn's time. '«'^^-i!v'i [^■- - If Ruysch, 1507. .^i^jf V Kf^'Tu ■J>//, is/. "> VJ. fffit Tracing of Wm. de Testie, by Rev. Dr. de Costa 5''/-*.;s N o r K u iM^r f-> ^ ^., *'. Vf.i x - T * i * "K* .* A ''^i^ »'^ %'v- v'v VlWx ^.^ >■ 3^^ Wytfliet, 1597. / ^ .^•^ IC- ^'-^ John Dee, 1580. *• John Dee, 1580 Solis, 1598. C31 Mernam 1 From the Molineaux Globe, 1592. ■-JV 1 ^1/ ^^''^^''-v^U. <(,'-= ■'■'t.'et^ Bitoii \r 1 '^.. 1 'I' I I I ^ '» ,„>'-" .0.. \ .'fcL F.r" ■■-^,. ■•■> ^''it i i AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 77 Under the second head falls the determination of the site of Leif's houses. , . , The vessel in which Gudrid sailed with Thorfinn Karlscfni, her hus- band, carried sixty men and five women. They sailed long, until they came to a river which flowed through a lake and passed into the sea. Before the mouth of the river were great islands. They passed up into the lake. Karlsefni sailed through the lake as far as the mouth of the river (above), and called the place Hdp. They found sandy shoals there, so that they could not pass up the river except at high tide. Having entered its mouth, they cast anchor, and took possession of Leif's houses, l-inding thoir cattle and stores. The other vessels probably stopped fcr a time in the neighborhood, possibly at anchor in Boston Harbor or in the Hack Hay. They had arrived at Vincland possibly in May or early June (the time of early corn-plants), and had remained licre some two months, erecting additional houses. - some nearer, others farther from the water, - and enclosed some of them in a stockade. It was here (later) that Snorr. (son of -Iliorfinn and Gudrid) was born. They observed Indian corn, new/y sown, — that is, when the recently planted corn had just appeared above the ground, and was of course without tassels or ears, — growing wild on lowlands; and vinos (the Saga does not say j^w/w; it was too early) on the uplands. Fish were found in all the rivers. They dug pits for them at the margin of extreme high tide, and where the land was highest, to catch them in the spawning-season. EXPKDITION TO StRAUMFJORD. Some two months after arriving in Vineland, two vessels at least — one under Thorhall, and the other having Thorfinn on board — sailed away around Cohasset and along the Scituatc beach, and across the mouth of Cape Cod Bay to Kjalarnes, where, leaving on their right the old keel set up by Thorwald, they sailed along the outer, convex shore of Cape Cod, wondering at the retreat of the horizon as they went southward. 1/ k I i 78 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF KRIKSON, Thoifinn gave to it the descriptive name of " Wiinderstrand," or " Pur- dustrand." At length they came to where the .shore was indented with coves.' Here they anchored, and sent out two Scotch servants," directing them to run for three days to tlie southwest, and report what tiiey saw. On their return one brought a bunch of grapes, and tlie other a white ear-of-corn. Two months before, they had seen corn in an earlier stage (recently planted), and vines, 7iot grapes. Now they saw corn white in the ear,^ and the fruit of the vine, — a bunch of, grapes. (Both were unripe.) Thorhall and Thorfinn f iled farther, coming to another bay. Against it was an island, which Thorfinn described as the resort, at nesting-time, of innumerable sca-fowI, and called it Straumey, — Straumo. They steered the ship into a long bay between tlie i.sland and the mainland. The island was narrow and long, having little or no indentations, as may be inferred, since the explorers could at the same time observe the strong tide on the outside of the island and that in the channel between the island and the mainland. This was the Straumfjord. Thorfinn described the long bay, or channel, in the name " Straumfjord." It lay again.st the present Chatham ; it lies there now. This was the limit of Thorfinn's explorations to the south. Stephanius says the Northmen did not go south of Proniontorium Vinlandia' (Cape Cod, the Peninsula). Thorhall, weary of the hard fare, and desiring to go back and ^xplore Vincland, sailed northward along the conve.v beach of Furdustrand, or Wundcrstrand, round Kjalarne> (the Cape of the Keel), and would have sailed westward to Vincland, but was blown out to sea. He had with him nine men, all the others preferring to stay with Thorfinn. ' Cliinipl,\in. in 1604-5, observed b.iys and figured lliem. Tlie expression " indented with coves" ni:iy rclcr to tlie condition of tl):n;;s before the n, >r,imes li.^d co.ilesced to their present slate. ' Monomoy .ind Nauset beach (Straumey) filfil the requirements of the Saj;a as to the flocks of birds and Iheir nesting. Nauset lulfils the needs of the country into whicli the Scotch servants were sent, to run to the .southwest and return within three days. Old Chatham Harbor, and the lone, narrow ^^y stretching southward, fulfil the needs of Straumfjord; and against it lies the long, narrow island (Straumey). on b«)th sides of which the tid.d currents observed by the Northmen nviv be observed to day. See Appendix anil detailed Coast Survey map of Cajjc Cod. • It was white ; all Indian corn (maize) is white when urripe. See Oossary. f''ilif faiiT^rtft < ' -t^ ftr/ir 5l(t>>. MJOl »CJ| ^^ ^ . -* J> ■Jfti .r r .!# 3^ & -ft <«r s a 'CX^-r^. -'' y ^1^ -^ V , ^ ^ v_ . V f. ■:£.'^ % >^ >'■ k* *! .,/** iJ ** J0'\ \i ?. r ,* (J. * ■ 1*-— •» •• . '•iii ■'. if Sft ,',i> n -\*>- >aA .ii' i^ v^»-; OOJ .OOA'OOC.ioi ■''^"V«„'.,«Bffltf»'Hft*-..«n"'i'^''"' y J* ^j'4mM^ i JL t t 11 MiiIHaH TT-tftUA/ OT >I\)V' w (^«J^^ ^ Qt 1 -, i »» i 3 .:i-?'' --^'.^-^^- • ■:: t.W::, *:■:*», v^^;.:.■;.•;..♦vIV "-C ■::^:^^^^m^' ^^" „ttnin«<»""''^" ChAMI'LAIN s ArjAINST MODERN CHATHAM LiGHT * - r * ■ i C'llAMI'I.AINS EnTHANCR TO NaUSRTI llAHIIorR. i-f. I ^ I toof.inte AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 79 Reading between the lines, one sees tliat Thorfinn observed the storm which sprang up immediately after Thorhall's departure, ^ave up his projecled expedition southward, and went promptly with one ship to the rescue of Thorhall. "Sailing northward round Kjalarnes, they went westward after passing thai promontory, — the land lying to the left hand [the Gurnet and Cohassct]. There they saw extensive forests." " When they had sailed for some time, they came to a place where a river flowed from southeast to northwest.' Having entered its mouth, they cast anchor on the southwestern bank."^ It is not necessary to dwell on the fate of Thorhall. The record of his purpose and departure left us testimony of the situation of Vine- land from Cape Cod. He went northivard around Furdustrand, and attempting to sail 'westward to V'ineland, was blown off to sea. He went partly round the Race on which the old keel had been set up. Thorfinn, one sees, was familiar with the position of Vineland with regard to Straumfjbrd and Kjalarnes before Thorhall started to sail there} The men, under Thorfinn's direction, felled timber, hewed it, brought it to the ship, and piled it on a cliff to dry. The vines, which ran to the tops of high trees, were cut down to facilitate gathering the grapes, which were dried for fi'^'ire use.* r* ' The site of Leifs houses, .is .ilrc.idy referred to. See the large m.ip of the Ch.irles River from .tbove the C.imbri(li;e Cemetery to the Warren Uridjje. ' This applies to a point in the appr bpc I 1 'I I t£ 80 'llli: LANDFALL OK LLIF JiRlKSON, Thorfinn went several times back and fortli between Hdp and Straiim- fjiird. Me had, as we Iiave seen, established his wife in a dwelling pro- tected by a stockade, — naturally, before the birth of Snorri, her son. I find no evidence that she left Vineland for any point whatever after her arrival, till she sailed with her husband and her little boy, in his third year, for Greenland. Thorfinn decided to explore the rcgi about Hdp. This enabled him to see that the river, which flowed ,)ast his dwellings Uirough a lake to the sea, came first from the west to the cast (Waltham to Cam- bridge). -At the point near which the houses were built there was a cliff, and also a cove where the ship might lie against the solid land, — the southwest bank (southwest from the dwelling-house of Leif, afterward occupied by Thorfinn's lurty), out of the way of the tidal currents. Elsewhere the banks are uniformly of meadow submerged by high tides, unsuited eitiier to loading a ship or to landing from a ship. After the first winter, one morning early, they saw from Leif's houses nine birch-bark canoes (mistaken for boats of sealskin) coming down the river, which issued from behind a promontory to the southward. The men in the canoes were small of stature, fierce in expression, swarthy, with ugly hair, great eyes, and broad cheeks. They remained some time, wondering at the new-comers, and then retired round the pro- montory to the sout/rwi-sf. (One relation says to the soutii.) Later, there was a second vi.sit of these fierce canoe-men, and a third, and perhaps more visits, coming from beyond the promontory at the southward or southwestward, in such numbers that the whole water looked as if " s/>rifi/(:M rci/// coais" (the brown or copper-colored faces ill the canoes). The Northmen called these natives Skralin^cr, which means, primarily, "men of the lowest order, hideous in appearance;" and secondarily, "a mob, a crowd without a leader," which came to be ap])lied to the Indians as a race.' They came for barter, and sold furs for strips ' Cnntz (Vol. L, p. 2;4) siys the n.ime means nlso " scn»|).s or pairitiRs," — that is, ove for a long; distance, hcini; meadow bank, (lid not permit ot landini;. Kocks and ■■ hard pan " at various moderate dei)tlis have been found for a distance of some two hundred feet toward llie sohd Ianik. TliDrhall was called the Hunter, . . . was of great stature, ... of a hard nature, taciturn, . . . crafty, malicious. ... He went in the ship with Thorwald. . . . He used the ship in which Thorbiorn came. . . . They carried forty and a hundred' men." (De Costa, page 57.) Third Relation. " At this time . . . much was sjioken about a Vineland voyage; and both Gudrid and others persuaded Karlsefni much to that expedition. Now this expedition was resolved upon, and they got ready a crew of si.vty men ' Tlie Norse Imndreil w.is 120. 40+ 120 ;^ iCiO, the number of Tliorfinn's total comp.-jny. AND sitl; of his houses in vineland. 83 and five women. . . . They put to sea with the ship, and came to Leif's houses safe, and carried up their goods." (De Costa, page 64.) Another account says: — "Kailsefiii asked Lcif for his houses in Vineland, but he said he would lend them, but not give them. Then they put to sea with the ship [the one that containctl Gudrid, with sixty men and five women], and came to Leif's houses safe, and carried up their goods." (De Costa, page 72.) Fmirth Relation. " Karlscfni, with Snorri and Hjarni and the rest of his comrades, sailed south. They sailed long, until they came to a river which flowed from the land through a lake and passed into the sea. Before tkc mouth of the river lucre ,!^rcat islands, and thty were not able to enter the river cxeept at the hii^hest tide. Karlscfni sailed into the mouth of the river, and called the land H6p." (De Costa, page 69.) Fifth Relation. " It is said that Karlscfni and Snorri and Rjarni and his comrades sailed along the coast to the south. They sailed along until they came to a river flowing from the land through a lake into the sea, where there were sandy shoals, where it was impossible to pass up except with the highest tide Karlscfni sailed up to the mouth of the river with his lolk, and called the place H6p.' " (De Costa, page 56.) Sixth Relation, — a fragment which shows the perplexity t)f the scribes. " It is some men's say, that Bjanii and Gudrid remained behind, anil a hundred men with them, and did not go farther [than Leif's houses] ; but that Karlscfni and Snorri went southward, and forty men with them, and were not longer in Hop than barely two months, and the same summer came iaei [from Straumfjord]." (Beamish, I'rince Society, page 58.) ' This paragraph h.is iiniformly licen siippo.scil to l)e an account of an cxpcilition from Straum- fjord to tlie soMl/i. Careful study will reveal to tlie student tli.it as Tluirfinn entered Hop and arrived in this expedition at l.eifs houses in Vinel.ind, from which Thorwald h.ul .sailed no//// to explore to the north aiul east, this understandin;!; of the paragraph must he given up. A little further study of the fifth and sixth relations will show that on this reading alone the whole sequence of events in the stories ol Leif, Thorwald, I'horliail, and Tliorfinn, which has perplexed all students of the Vineland Sagas, comes into instant harmony. The lowland about Hi5p was where the indigenous Indian corn grew, .and the higher land where grapevines flourished. It was near where I.eiCs houses were that the skin boats (birch- burk ranoes) first appeared It was the lake through which, to the se.a, a river flowed inuiiediately from the west. It also flows for a short distance from southeast to northwest directly toward the site of Leif's houses. The Hdp was a 1 ike, -a small landlocked bay. salt at flood-tide and fresh at ebb. How do we know that rhorlinn came back to leif's house.' liecau.se the Saga s.ays so; because, moreover, there was his home, and there were -his wife and .son. *l 1/ 84 THE LANDFALL OK LF.IF FRIKSON, Seventh Relation, — a fragment. "They passed half a month here \there, — Beamish] carelessly, having brought with them their cattle [ami mniistd t/mnselvcs, and did not pcrcdvc aitything luzo. — UeaniishJ." H »» ! I Tiiorfinn's Expf.dition. I now present an atteiiipt at continuous relation, made up of selections from the different relations. The conversation frequently turned, at Hrattahlid, on the discovery of Vineland the Good ; many saying that an expedition there held out a fair prospect of gain. At length Thorfinn and Snorri made preparations for going on an expedition thither in the following spring ,1007). Ujarni Griniolfson and Thorhall Gamlason determined to accompany them. There were one hundred and sixty in all, of whom seven were women. They took with them all kinds of livestock, for they designed to colonize the land. Thortinn asked I.eif to give him the dwellings which he had erected in Vineland. Leif told him that he would grant him the use of them, but that he could not give them to him. . . . Thorfinn, with Snorri Thorbrandson and Bjarni Grimolfson and all the rest of the company, sailed toward the soutliwcst. They went on for scmie time, until they came to a river which, flowing from land, passed through a lake into the sea. They found great islands before the mouth of the river. Thorfinn and his companions sailed u[) as far as the mouth of the river (at the Hrooklyn Hridge), and called the place H6p. . . . They found sandy shoals there, so that they could not i)ass up the river except at high tide.' They . . . came to l.eifs booths hale and whole, and landed their cattle. They took their cargo from the ship, and prepared to remani there. They had with them all sorts of cattle. The country there was very beau- tiful. They undertook nothing but to explore the land. Having landed, they observed that where the land was low, recently planted (or "new sown") corn grew wild. Where it was higher, vines were found. The cattle went up into the country. They dug fish-pits where the land began, and where the land wjis highest ; and when the tide went down there were sacred fish (halibut) in the pits. ' The "sandy sho.->Is" applied to the mouth of the river, where it enters, below tlood-tide. the "Back Hay," ne.ir the Cottaiie F.wm Station on the Uoston ami Albany Railro.id. The "j;re.it islands'' were against the outlet of the river, Ix'jow the lake, into the bay, — visible from the eminence of the old Fort Point and intliidini; those farther out, against Nantaskct See Coast Survey map. • AND Sine OK Ills HOUSES IN VINliLAND. 85 Thorfinn Karlscfni and his people had made their dwellings above the lake; and some of tiie houses were near the water, others more distant. (Beamish, Trince Society, vol. i. p. 55.) Now took they out their goods and made a separate building, and set that building farther from the strand or the edge of the lake. (Ikamish, I'rince Society, page 65.) Now hereof is this to say. Karlsefni (Thorfinn) had posts driven stron;;ly round about his booths, and mule all complete. At this time Gudrid, the wife of Karlsefni (Thorfinn), bore a man-child, and he was called Snorri. Karlsefni had wood felled and hewed and brought to the ship, and had the wood piled on the cliff to dry. l''.very river was full of fish. In the forest there were a great number of wild beasts of all kinds. Thence they sailetl toward the south for two days, and arrived at a ucss, or promontory of land,' They sailed along the shores of this promontory, the land lying to the starboard. These shores are extensive and sandy. They made for land, and found on the ness the keel of a ship; whereupon they called the place Kjalarncs. And the strands they called luirdustrands, for it was long and wearisome to sail by them, then the land became indented with coves. King Olaf Tryggvason had given Leif two Scots, a man named Ilaki and a woman named Ilckia. They were swifter of foot than wild animals; these I.eif had given to Thorfinn, and they were then in his ship. When tliey had sailed beyond Furdustrands, then set they the Scots on shore, and bade them run to the southward of the land and explore its qualities, and come back again within three days. They stayed away the appointed tmie ; but when they came back, the one had a bunch of grapes, and the other an ear *" r rn.'-* These went on board, and after that they sailed farther. They sailed into a fjiird (bay, or strait") ; there lay an island before it, on each side of which were strong currents. They called this island Straumey, — Straum-oe (stream, or current island). There were so many eider-ducks on the island that one could hardly walk without treading on the eggs.^ They called tiie place Straumfjord (bay of currents).' They were there for the winter without having provided food beforehand. In the summer the fishing declined, and they were badly off for provisions; then ' Cohasset. ' How ohvious th.it tliis w.is of later date than that of tlic first landing, when the corn Thorfinn's parly saw was " new sown." — that is. reirntly planlci!, and hfoic cars had appeared • See ,\V>/(M in .Xppendix al)0ut liirds eggs. < That is, open at tioth extremes, so tliat water may pass throngh r 86 Tin: LANPFALI. OF l.KIK KRIKSON. ♦ » ■ I disappeared I'lioi hall the Iliintsiiian. They searched after Thorhall for tliiee days, and (omul hini on the tup of a nuk, . . . They hade him come home with them, and he did so. A short time after a whale was cast ashore. . . . 'I'he cooks dreased the whale, and they all ate of it, but wore all taken ill immediately afterwards. They threw all the remainder of the llesh from the rorks into the sea, commending themselves to God ; aftijr which the air became milder. They were again able to go fishin}?, nor from that time was there any want of provisions, for there was abundance of wild aiiiinals hunted on the mainland, of ej;;,'s taken on the island, and of fish caught in the sea. And now they began to dispute where they should go next. Thorhall the Hunter wished to go north, round l'"urdustrands and Kjalarnes, and so to explore Vinland. Thortinn would go southwest along the coast. It was thought more advisable that each should explore separatclv. Thorhall, therefore, got ready out under the island with only nine men. All the others went with Thorfinn. Thorhall's ]wrty then sailed northward, round riinliistrands and Kjalarnes, and would sail westward, but were driven off by a strong adverse wind. Afterward Thorfinn went with one ship to seek Thorhall the Hunter, but the rest remained behind, and they sailed northward past Kjalarnes, ami thence westwaril, the land lying on their larboard (left hand). There were wild woods over all as far as they could see, and scarcely any open places. When they had sailed for some time, they came to a place where a river flowed from southeast to northwest. Having entered its mouth, they cast anchor on its southwestern bank. One morning early, as they were looking round, they jaw a number (uinel of canoes, in which poles were carried, rowed from the south round a cajic. These poles vibrated in the direction of the sun, emitting a sound like reeds shaken by the wind. Then said Thorfinn, "What do you think this means?" .Snorri Tiior- brandson answered, " Perhaps it is a sign of [xiace. Let us take a white shield and hold out toward them." They did so. Upon this, those in the canoes rowed toward them, seeming to wonder who they were, and went up upon the laiul. They were swarthy in complexion, short, and savage in ap|)earance, with ugly hair, great eyes, and broad cheeks. When they had stayed sonic time, and gazed at the strangers in astonishment, they tleparted and retired beyond the promontory to the southwest. One morning they saw a great number of canoes approaching from beyond the promontory at the southwest. Thc> were in such great numbers that the whole water looked as if it were sprinkled with coals. I'oles were, as before, suspended in each canoe. (They were descending the river on the early ebb tide, — the banks weie full, — and holding u\i their paddles) Thorfinn and his J i Ikkii^n. ■ -JM I Th.'/ nr^n/ tn ftr sAw ^/m ujtfi/ Mty ci^^ *•" -'^l ^ 'n-Atre I CAMBRIDGE. L . Gerry's Landing, Site of- LeIFs houses at end of Bluff — Symonds Hill. T ThorF-inn's Landing . R . Rocks where Norse party got ashore from pursuit of the Skraellings : 'V 1'-^^: ,, T/tor//nn ctt c r/yr rK^/e/i, //o/y/zk » ''■\\ 7?t9 j/t/'o afvuft ' "tvAtre a r/'rtr& wijiiji ; Afart /htmovfj '///;■ , Comfimni0rri—/cii'faii ^;^_^ //"ouM o/ Me r/'itr'f. ''■' /or a smaA^ /mm/ AeAmtt /a* ant/ /nsA <»/ *jU) |t> , / ^Vi^yrt/r^ l>n for at^t f/'mi wiM M*/ ci /Xuy//^ » //-om /At /oncZ/iassttt' M^u^ ^' ^■^.^V^ TTtej/l/^ yrou(>rjtc/onlii//Wt'! / ■^i /«"r*- Wnfy' it/on /At mou^/m(rn^ '/jlji ifO f/t/o //m^a^' 'Thorfinnj^/tWA/s if/ / p— = ^^;V)i>'' /'^'"'/^ofMtr/itr'fSroa/r/i^Sr/t/ft}^/ { /or a s.'na/^ /tr/Mi/ /^cAt vftl'' / / wndta f I # ^ ^ / f^ // ' ''TWVfiiW' •""■■''■*■ ^ V ' ' /J1 ■ i I 90 TIIK LANDFALL OK LKIT ERIKSON, I ;» i 1 of tide water, three miles above, was the city of Norumbcga, — "before tlic mouth of [this] river," Thorfinn says, "were gnal islanUs." So say Allefonsce and Thevet, Champhiin and W'intluop, and the Coast Sur- vey. .All except -Allefonsce record the elbow of Nantasket and Hull. The last three place the name Cohasset at the salient opjKKsite Nahant. Thorwald attempted in his second season in V'ineland to exjjlore the shore to the cast and north from the moutli of the river, — the trend towards Cape Ann, — and around the land to the northwest; but he was driven off by a storm, and swept upon the neck of Cape Cod, where he was wrecked, and where the keel of his ship was broken off. Here it was that after renewing his keel, he set up the old one, and called the cape Kjalarncs, — Cape of the Keel. From this — the genitive, the nominative being Kjblrncs, afterward becoming Coaranes — there came Carenas, C. de Arenas, Cape Sablons, Cape Hlanc, and W'itte Hoeck ; and last, Cai)e Cod, — all of which apply to the same point. Thortinn sailed from Leif's houses out through the harbor, along Scituate beach, across Cape Cod Hay, around Kjalarnes, and southward along the Furdustrand (the curved east side of the peninsula) to .Straum- fjord (Chatham), the /nrl oi Cape Cod, and later, seeking Thorhail, he returned rt)und Kjalarnes, along the shores of the Bay, p.ast the Ciiirnit to Hop, — the Boston Back liay, — coming to I.,eif's houses on the Charles near the Cambridge City Hospital. Lcif first landed — made his Landfall- on an i.'-land at the north end of Caj^e Cod (the Kjalarnes of 'I'horwald and Thorfinn), now joined to the main land, and afterward sail(cl arnv.s Cape Cod Bay. Thorwald also sailed across the liay. Lcif and Thorfinn sailed westerly, past tlie promontory, beginning at the Ciurnet (where Thorwald lost his life and was buried) and stretching to the northward-northeastward, from the main land to Cohasset, between which and N'aliant was the gate to l^os ton Harlior, (the Porl aux /s/rs of Champlain), the oiit.r mouth of Charles River; thence to the inner mouth of the river against La>l Bos- tor, and up the Charks thnm-h the Back Bay and river above Brook I \ » o ...1 ^^. ^^# ^* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ^ i/ 21'-, ^ < V, « % «/- t/j f/- 1.0 I.I 1.25 U} 12.8 IM 2.2 m 12.0 1.8 14 III 1.6 ^^ ^/ > m /a y /A Photographic Sciences Corporation '^ iV # \\ «■ -!^ «> ■«e^> 6^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^. Maiollo's Verrazano, 15 ^'■y '-''•: ::0i- D. Ribero, in the year 1539. '■^l Agnese, 1543. .Jm WEEN CAPE ANN AND CAPE COD. Cosa, 1500. • VDi-g^K/y^j aioUo's Verrazano, 1524. r^ I 3L *H. 7 ^>, -^•- «^ Henry Huth, 1534. '543- \, ?o^-^ l/-.-_„..^-^^....... NVOVA THAN CI A' VKBEGA.' :^r -^m- uafe^i Gastaldi, 1550. Capt. John Smith, 1614. 1 1' i i i 1 1; if • il' N ■« v; ■ '*, ^ ■' §. ' ^.t «t»V>H »i .^.,^ '^ '° sV" *^^it,.*\,^.,f,, ; rc*-»,t'' 1 i.. «*»'"* ,-*'' On m ,«r ..<' ^ >':->' i" ^« !(^ ^^ / ,^' ^»l •!■(»,, \ A ^^ ^ ' ''*• ^ ' 'v \\ '^ 6_ riS.;' A O O d •iMkbrt immm * A Q O Q X X a v 3 ■-i c AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELANU. 91 line Bridge, to tiie soutli end of Symonds's hill near the Cambridge City Hospital. Here was the site of Leif's houses. Let us look at the forms of expression in the different translations. Sailing across the mouth of a bay, or " through a bay," or, as another relation says, " into that sound that lies between the island and the ness which jutted out north of the main land, and steered westward past the ness-" or according to another version, "westward past a promontory nroiectincr to the northeastward from the main land,"- all these leave from Cape Cod but one path for Leif's vessel. This path led westerly toward the Gurnet, and then northwesterly along the Sc.tuate beach and past the Cohasset rocks; which salient coast -the Gurnet, Scituate beach and Cohasset - constitutes the promontory projecting northerly and northeasterly from the mainland ; and then sailing westerly tluough the channel a-ainst Nantasket to the mouth of a river " before which, as Thorfinn's Saga says, "there were great islands" (Noddles Island, Cas- tle Island. Governor's Island, and the lesser islands nearer the entrance to the harbor), where Leif's ship grounded on an ebb tide. At this point the vessel sat upri-ht, "stood up ".(of course, in a yielding bottom). At the inner mouth of the river there are two fjords. They are the lower Chadcs leading to the Boston Back Bay, and the Fort Point Channel leading to the South Bay, separated from the I'.ack Bay in early times (see De Barre's map) by a neck, at the narrowest part but a few rods wide The study of the map and the course of the tide tells us in gen- eral terms where the grounding on an ebb tide must have been. The vessel must have been to the northerly of I'ort Hill.' Why? First, for this reason : The inner mouth of the river before which were the great islands was to the north of the ancient Fort Hill. The place before the mouth of the river where Leif's ship grounded on an ebb tide, and " stood up," was in soft bottom (had it been hard bottom she would have careened, - not "stood up," as the Saga says), out of the swash channel. Looking at the surroundings on the Coast Sur- ' See also Pilot Cli.\rt of Boston Harbor. 9a THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, vcy and the bearings as given in the Sagas, one sees that it was proba- bly in the ancient shallows off the present site of Fancuil Hall, not far from a line at the same time tangent to the ancient salient of Fort Hill, and also to that of Copp's Hill. Where the vessel grounded, the men took boat and rowed to the Boston shore. At Cape Cod they had been ashore for a few hours, — only touched on an island. They were naturally impatient to be on the mainland where (for example) they might get fresh water. For a brief time a part of the crew were on terra Jirma. On the return of the tide the men went on board the vessel. Second, when the rising tide lifted the vessel it " moved, '^ — the literal language of the Saga. It was not towed or rowed, but Jloated of itself, or"'.novcd." Had it grounded to the south of I'^rt Hill, it would have been carried up Fort Point Channel, in which case the next terms in the Saga would not apply. They require a " rirer /hzving throui^k a lake.'' The vessel, therefore, could not have gone up into the south bay, into which, as no ri\er enters, no river could flow t/irouj;/i. The vessel could only have gone up the Charles, which still flows through the ancient I5ack Bay, or what remains of it after the great encroachment of the cities on either side.' The Coast .Survey map of I?oston Harbor and the Hack Hay, in its recorded soundings with the more lightly shaded bed of the stream at low water, will illustrate what is said of the lake through which the river flowed to the sea. The large detached map from the Warren Bridge to the west bound- ary of the Winchester I^lacc exhibits in great detail the features to which the S.igas refer. It will be a light task to see where the vessel must have gone after entering the I^ack Bav on the rising tide. On either side of the chan- nel at low tide was mud, and beyond it were the hare mud flats, in ' Sec map of tlie river flowing through a lake to the sea, showing ani lent extent of the IJack I!ay. 4 Vi -.^;:5«: ■-.. ' ■ <■• ■ ^ '_<,•■;. ■l^\^n C- > ! 1- ,•.••7 ^-^^ ~ (. , y ^/ '■' ' ' ^ , / .w * ''" f IfffffiTip^' ffyT.T'-'"'"" n % I < \ \ ' /-'■,; •', '-«i*0: t.^i - H_ '*'^- -:-s>v^^J' !■ -1'ri.?i )N-r> -■=» in enttrinif iw S'tnrhtuit^l hand \ ni,i,k . ,, - Ilntl \ IHwk luul Hrd h»ri\t>TUal strtpiNi.lktiujrr Oiiov A' LJ» ^ n f. k Ski f/C > A i » 1 1P i. ij': 3 ■ ■■;mV Bj 3 '.III ■»'' i*\ '»■'. '♦7 lb G 15 Iril r'» \«> \- u ^ ^••^^ ■"' ^^ Vii 13* 12* yelk i*t v»i I5t , 16* ■~ ft* '" All «l ^* *-^ ii'l Vik I'm. 16 11 l5l »»• vii lU .8 .^..^10 ii^HA lAJ^j in /SiMowM /If mMT/r /: *M~ 'V 'X. »« *• <\ ■ -% 4 ■ ^.^: 1 i# r-su 1^ " " "'^ •**. 1 -k--, 4 ' ^^Z J. . -a ft ■* ■.-'":■ w».S;- '■l/. ,.' : .^J' ",,-*• .''i^ «•* * it ■B. ,. Jii 1 '" 1^ %3«:. ;..*t ft" ft^ .'^i^- ,^ *-. ' ''*; '■ ^K ■■> t "■ *!tiVl^ ' '> * 'I 1 i I A \ H li I ^?J "^?^-''*»''^ ^'^45v^:«,-» - "V' .>!s^>*^ y*-*^' /'J . , *. 'V V-- u> * * 10 ^r ;i r ■1 -V 1 1 - * ' — \ i • • ^:l 1 V ^ ->.ti[*v^ J ,' "N rrrrf-^'"^ '' ' " *^ -=.^ -ra- ^ iinnim»i-Mrn i « ii i . I '^^.^uAtu-n. Cm*,^f^ ifitoiA ^ A jk -J*. ^ i ^ A .« * A * * — • FL^r? OF SITE AM0 .SETTLE MEMT M»,frA 9.///9 *£ ^jUfcjp. ^ g«.>.^. Jfa^/r/^A-. 1 HCLIOTTPC PniNTINOCO { I H t • • J AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 93 W»»V A^V ir- ' places three quarters of a mile wide, left as the salt water retreated with the ebb. The vessel was a merchant ship, and had only a single square mainsail. It was in a narrow channel ; they could not beat, and there was little or no use for oars. They had obviously no alternative but to yield to the current of the flood tide until tiiey came to a prac- tical landing-place. Why ? Because the shore was constantly being swallowed up by the rising tide. Close study of the Coast Survey map of the lower Charles (above the bridge at the Cottage Farm Radway Station; that is, above the ancient Back Bay) will show. that, by reason of the meadow banks of mud, it was not till the vessel reached the ancient bluff of .Symondss hill that its occupants could go ashore. At this point the vessel could rest on an even keel at low tide. Here he n^ainland. thirty-f^ve feet above high water, had been under-cut to be- come a cliff by the abra.ion at flood and ebb of the outer curve o the current of the Charles. At the west end of the bluff was eligible land- ing, and building ground. Here, and here only, is where the nvcr flows from the soul/uasl to the «.r//r.«/, as required by the Sagas, -directly toward the end of the bluff, the site of Leifs houses, as remarked by Thorfinn. It is the only point on the river to which the language of the Sa-as f^ts. From there could be seen the promontory at the south a°.d southwest, from beyond which the river issued beanng its tlcet of Skracling canoes, and behind which to the southwest they later retired, as related in Thorfinns Saga.^ There is the only landmg-place where Thorfinn could have gone ashore on the southwest bank, as viewed from Leifs houses. TlK. Coast Survey map shows the first spot where a plank could reach fro.n the deck of the vessel to solid huid above tide-water A .lance will show - as a personal exploration by boat would br.ng vividly before a student -the first spot where Leifs vessel could have laid in the water and also against the bank at all tides.^ Uated li I Uul. w),o lr'equcn..y in his cnnoc ,owed up ,..e river: when .oM the sU.ry of the #■■■- 94 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, b|i| Nor is there any point above for a considerable distance where landing from a vessel's deck is possible, — certainly none below the Winchester Place, the present western bounds of the Cambridge City cemetery, nearly a mile away along the river. Why? Hccause the meadow and its soft, abrupt muddy banks lie between the immediate water of the river and the higher solid land ; and here there is the fatal condition that the river flows, from the west instead of from the southeast. So far, the demonstration is one resting on the doctrine of exclusions. Nevertheless, the positive determination of the exact point where Leif built his houses cannot be established from the Saga of Erik the Red alone. We have found the first point where Lcif could have gone ashore and laid his ship; but the absolute conviction which adequate evidence gives as to the precise site of Leif's houses rests upon evi- dence which is found in other Sagas. Thorfinn came several years later directly to Leif's houses, and oc- cupied them during the three years that he was in Vineland. Certain incidents occurring during his stay were recorded in the Sagas. Others occurred during the stay of Freydis, who also dwelt at Leif's houses. These incidents bear upon the tojiography, hydrography, and relative position of prominent points, — as of the houses, the Ianding-])!aces, the fish-pits, the promontory, tlie rocks above half-tide, — which, it will be clearly seen, establish that one spo/ only, and that but a few rods square, could have been the site of Leif'-s houses. It rests on the form of de- monstration that any alternative is absurd. To illustrate these incidents it has seemed to me better to present the required features on a skeleton map of absolute accuracy, — a de- tailed Coast Survey map' of the Charles River, — in connection with a S,i!;a, lie responded tint llie first spot wliere I.eif (ftili/ Iiive I.mried wis the Miilf V nowii as Sjmonds's lidl. There are, it is triic, a few y.irrls of slupiiit; liird shore .it the south cud of the lirrvoklinc I!rid.;e but not eligible, because the v.irvin^ line of the '•hnre would not jjermit the vessel at .tII tides to lie in the u'atti , or on even ketl. .ind at the simc lin-e be .iccessible from the .shore. ' Coast Survey m.ip, not before primed, supplied to me b) the City Engineer .Also Davis's chart. - 1-. II : m "* T X o t/^ X 5 I c 5; tr TI w" PI O < 1 c 2 m > 3 X to H Ul ■- O X ^ 7. a z m c w •fl i m > m a r » n r ■< CI a a o -< c 2 H P a Ir ■'il I . .-^-jic-^.TJi^-m TRACES OF CONCEIVED SITE OF LONO HOU.^E OF TIIORFINN LEIF'S HOUSE IN THE DISTANCE. mmmm'^ ■'^r-'-^'-'iife ni* ..,-(*«!mt-. " ss^'siP^- Aiiuiiim-'jj. AND SITt OF HIS MOUSES IN VINELAND. 95 ■^ map of the shores produced from recent actual survey; also numerous photographs. The photograph facing the titlepage gives Thorfinn's landing-place, on the southwest bank, on the return from the search for Thorhall, on the branch stream, at the extreme right; the promontory, from beyond which at the south the river i.sues; the course of the nver from the southeast to the northwest; one of four fish-pits, and the traces near it of the remains of Leifs principal house; also the course of the nver below, past the rocks, -all on three combined photographs, makmg a continuous whole. . xr , , „, Let us remember that Thevct had described the elbow at Nantasket, Civcn its latitude, 42° 14'. '"^"d recorded the Irocois name, - A.ayascon (which means the human arm), our Nantaskct; that Champlau. found and left the name Yrocois on the Charles; that Verrazano had described the outer and inner harbor (the Back Bay), and had given the estimated rise and fall of the tide at the mouth of the river, and found it eight feet. This point could not have been south of Cape Cod. as beyond Monomoy the average tido is from three to four feet. Allefonsce and Thcvet had described the rocks and islands off the ,nouth of Boston Harbor and Charles River as in the forty-third degree. Thorfinn's Saga had mentioned, as already n-f.-red to. the islands be ore the mouth of the river, -the " Muchas Islas" and " Lagus Islas of so many later maps, and also recalled in the " Port aux Isles of Cbam- phin Thevet, .Allefonsce, and Vornizano had f.nuul the river having the same name. Norumbega.' "IMie forty-third was the degree in which O.Wlby placed Norumbega. Verrazano and Thevet, Gastaldi and Kuscelli an°d Ikino, had placed the Refugio. Paradiso, and Flora between Cape Breton (Cape Ann) and the mouth of the Norumbega River ^the Charles). The name Norumbega, with dialectic modification, applied, according to Thevet and Allefonsce a.id Solis. and a great number of maps of ' Thevet says Norumbegue. "marked on some ch.uts as tl.e Rio Grande" - Kom.. 96 TIIK LANDIAM. OF MMF KRIKSON, i>i ;!-> the s.xtecth century, not o.ily to (I,c river, but also to a city, of which the co.neut.unai device was given on the maps at a short distance up the nver fron, the lake, less than three miles above the site of I eifs houses. This lake (the «ack Hay at flood tide) was called by Thor- f.nn "Hop." which is Icelandic for a •small land-locked bay salt at tlood tide a,ul fresh at ebb." and which is the wonderfully pc'rfect do- scr.pt,on of the ancient Hoston Hack Bay. includin.^ the mc.adows sub- merged at high tide. Verrazano and Ulpius saw the '' AWman l7//a" at the site of Leifs houses on the Charles, looking out on the mead- ows. I he "Hop" of Thorfinn (the I5ack Bay) was described by Ver- razano as -a small lake, son>e three leagues around, among numerous small lulls. -Iremont. Copps, Bunker, Breed's. Winter. Corey's Mt Auburn, etc. ' The lesser chart, on which are in.licated the sites of the fish-i^its the dwellings, and the topography incidentally described, requires only the careful reading of the Saga (which I luue had newly translated from I enngskjold and printed in the .Appendix, and u ith it sections from the so-called rhorfinn's Sagas) to enable one to see where Leif landed where later he built his houses, and where he passed his only winter in Vineland ; the spot where Thorwald came, and from which rowing west- ward he explored the Charles, through its shallows and its islands- the- •spot to which, after the shipwreck at Kialarnes (Cape Cod), and the Innial of their leader on the Gurnet, his crew returned to pass the win- ter, and m the spring following to bear tl-.e heavy tidings home to I eif at Brattahlid. To ti.is spot later came Thorfinn and Gudrid, and with them the households - men an'd women - and equipment f<,r founding a coloivy Here Snorri was born. l-Von, here went out the expedition t.nder Thorfinn along the Scituate beach, and past the Gurnet, and across the entrance to Cape Cod Ray, around the long curve east and south of Cape Cod, to Nauset Harbor southward, and then to the next harbor farther south on the east f.ace of the peninsula, and the quarters at Chatham against Straumo and Straumfjord, - the region of the junctinn » \ i a ilK uKlM nl wlnl. ,,r.-,,. |.,sh 1>„ l,.,„rr wlm. .,rc,,. •• I'roumntnry .1 tl,. n„„1, W.s, '• .K-'.r f.,il.n ,r.>- ,,n.l ...br. ""^mmmmm l-'ish Pit on liiu- nC sin-iiii iroiii the high Limls of Mt. Anliuni fiimifiv, in (nurc. (oriur nl" it'm.iiiiN nf hortimrs lung Ikmisc :it Icll loTrmninnl, Site of two lints nn tin- riL;lu .ilwu.- ilir M.i.hv.iv. 't f ') ) i i I :#. \ Manmsi l» ■^"' ■■' '■''' 'II lull "I'l'- llMll "I "llll >>t on, 111,1 ul |.iMl'» lliill^i III |,l||.o I f Silr iiT Iwii lllllo. Mini tiTllllT ill tiMllt ^ir AND SITE OK HIS HOLSKS IN VINKLAND. 97 >ri>m'iiiiii<1. with the mainland of the sandspit of Monomoy ; the region of the Old Stage Harbor and Champlain's collision (six hundred years later) witii tlie natives, some of them of Norse blood (^as found by the Pilgrims in 1620); the region beyond wliich southward Thorfinn did not go} From this expedition Thorfinn sailed northward along the Furdustrand and westward, at length returning to Leif'o houses, after seeking in vain to find Tiiorhall. Here, too, came Freydis and tlie ill-fated Helge and Fin- bogi, and tlieir crews and women. Mere was the site indicated by Ver- razano of the Norman Villa, whirii, renewed by successors to Thorfinn, may have held Lcif's house still standing in 1524. I have selected from many photographs one showing the inequalities nf the surface at the site of Leif's house before the grass had started in the spring; and another of a larger house, the building of which I have ascribed to Thorfinn, for reasons which careful study of the Sagas and the locality will enable any reader to see for himself. Near tiiem are tlie fish-pits, and tlie only siiip-landing place meeting the special require- ments of the Sagas. It is solid earth in the midst of marsh at the southwest of Leif's house and on the southwest bank. There is dut one suck spot. Near it are tiie traces of one hut in the side hill ; and there arc also traces of what may have been several others, referred to in tlie Sagas. I introduce several i)hotographs of the region. The photograph against the titlepage should be studied, and also the charts of the river, — jiarticularly the large one of Cambridge, and that smaller one of the region of Clerry's Landing. After the dealii of Leif's father, and of the brotiierA Thorstein and 'Ihorwald, Thorfinn came to Cireenland, where he was receised by Leif, will) had succeeded to his father's estates and prerogatives as well as to his name, — i.iiiU. It was to the heir lurik, (r lirik,'- to whom Gudrid ' See Stciilinnins in S;ign Time. • The Il.iuks liok S.ii;.i uiiifcirmly speaks of I.cif as Erik Sec Reeves's translation of original, l8yo, "Vincl-md dct (iotlie." 98 THK LANOrAU. OF LKIK KKIKSON, It- !n » referred the wealthy nobleman Thorfinn who sued for her hand; and it was in the paternal mansion which Lcif had inherited that her nuptials were celebrated. It was the consent of Leif which Thorfinn secured, to occupy the house which Lcif had built in the V'incland he discovered and owned, and the country wliich. in keeping with the generally prevailing notion, he regarded as an island (see Adam of Bremen), and which seems — by Northmen, at least — to have been recognized as Leif's. — that is, Mrik's. That this claim was recognized by his successors will be obvious to the careful student. ! have added a series of maps, fmm Stephanius down to and includ- ing the Coast Survey, to enable such as care to read somewhat more of the evidence for themselves to gratify their wish. That Carenas (Kjalarnes= Cape Cod), Krossaness (the Gurnet), Port aux Isles (Cohasset), Vingacrt's Eylan (Vinelandl, the valley of the Charles against Cambridge, Nantasket, and the Archipelago of Boston Harbor, are to be found in the region ascribed to the site of Leif's houses mav be supplemented by one further important branch of evi- dence. Properly to weigh this evidence requires a little patience. We need some knowledge of the social life of Iceland. Let us try to place ourselves in a position to understand it. Al.I, WHO FOMOWFD LkIF FROM BRATTAIII.in IN C.Kl IM AM) CAMK TO Lkik's Hoi sfs. First of thorn in point of time was Thorwald. " Thorwald, Leif's brother, two years after Leif's return, upon consulta- tion with Leif, made ready for his voyage, and put to sea. Nothing is said of their expedition until //icy came to Lci/'s /ii>iiscs." Thorfinn, with his expedition of three or more vessels and one hundred and sixty souls, of whom seven were women, came — with at least the part of the fleet which contained his wife Gudrid, the women of the colony. AND SITE OF HIS IIOUSICS IN VINELANI). 99 Hjarni Grimolfson, and the larger part of the company — directly to Lei/'s /lousis, and built additional houses. Frcydis in the joint expedition with Helge and Vmx\hog\ came directly to Lii/'s /louses. What a fortunate circumstance that there were so many of Norse blood and habits resident, successively, in the same houses! They must have looked out on the same landscape, fished from the same banks, rowed on the same river, had more or loss common experiences. Their narrations must have some qualities in common. In a certain sense they must be like the Gospels, — they must be repetitions. The student of the Sagas appreciates this, and it helps and guards his judgment. All that is recorded as basing been seen about the residence of Lcif in \'incland, whether by him or his brother Thorwaid, or by Thorfinn or Gudrid or I'Veydis; all that is said of houses, some nearer to the water and some farther away; of fish-pits in which the fish were taken in the spawning season; of the collection of maser wood, the canals for transporting it, and the cliff on which it w-as i)iled to dry; of the points of compass, as the river flt)wing toward the house, from southeast to northwest; of the Skraclings issuing in canoes from behind the prom- ontory at the south; of the landing by Thorfinn, on his return from seeking Thorhall, on the southwest bank of the tributary stream ; of the small land-locked bay, the Hop; of the tides, alternate salt and fresh water; of the collisii)ns and the flag of truce (the whole shield); of the newly- planted corn ; of grapes and their gathering; of the dairy and its products ; of the furs and .salmon-fishing; and of much more of the topography and the life iu N'iiicland, — all help to make identification of the site of the house certain. The variety of the sources of evidence and the extent of its accumulation help us to see how impossible it is to conceive of two localities agreeing with each other in so many features. When I predicted, at a scientific gathering, that Leif's houses once occupied a specific locality of linuted extent, I had not recently been at ICX3 THi: I.ANDFAI.I. OF LKIF ERIKSON, the place, nor did I for more than a year tliercaftcr visit it, as it had not occurred to me that tlie traces of wooden dwelHng-housos could have been so long preserved. So it hapjiened that in finding, as soon as I looked for them, the outlines of the foundations of houses, the fish- pits, and the extraordinary topographical features required by the Sagas, I had the satisfaction of looking upon what might bo regarded as the fulfilment of my own predictions, — that is, my deductions from the Vincland Sagas (the ships' logs) applied to the charts of the Coast Survey. These had given me the precise spot of Lcif's houses on a north and south coast, which gave me. on the maps, the latitude. It re- mained to compare this with the evidence, in Lcif's observation, as to the length of the shortest day in Vine' nd. This topic has been discussed at some length on pages 21-23; ^'^'^ its great significance and conse- quent importance, and the respect due to difference of opinion, justify additional consideration. L.\TITUDE OF ViNELAND. Leif had remarked that on the shortest day of the year in Vineland they had the sun at h'yktarst.-id and at D.ignialastad. It was a striking fact which everybody knew was impossible to experience in Greenland or Iceland. It was early seen that this observation held the key to the latitude of Vineland. Eykt was an established meal in Iceland : a lunch between dinner and supper ; and dac;ntal w.is breakfast, — the last as distant, before noon, from the midcKay meal, as the first was, in the afternoon. These times — das^mal and cvkt — fell at sunrise and sunsrt in Vineland on December 21. As they were points of time equi-distant from midday, if one could know the true time when ryfct occurred at sunset, at a given ])lace, he would know the length of the shortest day of the year at tluit place. If one knows the length of tiie shortest day f)f the year at a given place, a little calculation gives him the latitude. How was this time found out .' AM) SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. lOI It happened once that Snorri Sturlcson, the great poet and historian of Iceland, observed and left on record that cykt occurred at his residence — Reykholt — on the opening day of winter; that is, on the first Saturday between the iith and the 17th of October. To know, then, tlic time of cykt, it was only necessary to know at what hour and minute sunset took ])lace at Snorri's residence on the opening day ■ of the Icelandic winter, about the 15th of October. The enlightened King of Denmark, made aware of this, directed Thoriacius, an astronomer, to determine by careful observation the exact time of sunset on this day at Reykholt. It was found to be at half-past four. This was the moment of eykt. An event occurring at cykl occurred at half-past four in the afternoon. This four hours and a half before sunset in the afternoon, with as much more after sunrise in the forenoon, gave the total length of the day as nine hours, wherever sunset and eykl might be coincident in time. Lcif's observation gave to Rafn the length of the shortest day, as observed in Vineland. It rested, we see, on the astronomical observation of Thoriacius. It gave the site of Lcif's houses, according to Rafn, near Newport, on the shore of Narragansctt Bay. Hut. somewhat unhappily for this result, it was later found that the time of the lunch in Norway, called cykt, was not everywhere at the same time. It varied with the latitude and the prevailing habits of the people. At Hjornsen's home in Gudbrandsdal it is the meal taken at al)out five. I found it farther south, in Christiania, half an hour later; and north of Trondhjem it is said by V^igfus.sen to be at half- past three. At Snorri's mansion in Iceland it was at half-past four. This irregularity in Norway led Professor Storm, of the University of Christiania, to the conclusion that cykt as a point of time was varia- ble, and must be given up as a factor in determining the latitude of V^iiieland. Eykt, he reasoned, must be regarded as an hour ending at half-past four. This view bail a measure of support in the ecclesiastical ordinances of Iceland. I02 THE LANDFALL OK Ll-.ll" KKIKSON, I have been led to another conclusion. The fact that Snoiri recoids the coincident occurrence of cykt and of sunset carries in it the point of moment ; to wit, tiiat one of the two factors was variable in its time. Tlie other was uniform in its time. Eykt, at Reykholt, as time was constant. Sunset as time was variable. Sunset is a point, not an hour. Why was tykt constant.' Eyli was a lunch, the time of takint; which was fi.xed by a human want. The time for this meal, like the moment of midday, for obvious domestic and social reasons, — such as economy of time, the keeping of appointments, the needs of cattle and i^heeji in feeding and watering, of herdsmen and shepherds, — must be the sanw in the same (general hlitude throughout considerable districts. The con- venient and successful jjursuit of the chief avocations, — sucli as attend- ance at school, on public gathering.s grazing, farming, fishing, domestic duties, and economies, etc., — made it desirable. The habit would be onic exacting, all the more with a people who from necessity arc constantly employed, and therefore have no time to lie wastid in the needless over- lapping of engagements. Habits acquired in early life arc broken up with difficulty in later years. The Rev. Dr. Henderson, the missionary to Iceland in 1S13 and 18 [4, says the iiabits and customs of the people have remained unchanged for nine hundred years. flalf-past four as eykt wa^ a period, or brief interval, for a hurriitl meal as well known as twelve, or noon, at Re\kholt. The farmers, the shepherds, the fisliermon, the mothers, the chiklreii, in the general latitude of Reykholt, a few leagues only from Reykavik the present c.ipital, on the one hand, and less from Skalholt the great school, on the other, would all obey the same cykt. .So it came about that when Eirik Raude gathered his siiips and their crews in lircidafjord, and departed from Schnefelsncss, within the same degree of latitude as Reykholt, for (iunniborn's Island and Greenland, they took with them the lifelong habit of a lunch at half-p.ast four. As a matter of habit, the lunch and the lime of it were coupled in their minds and their k^ AND SITE Ul" HIS HOUSES IN VINELANU. 103 wants. They nccflcd the lunch at Iialf-past four as distinctly as they felt tht- want of the midday meal at twelve. Eykl meant lialf-past four, as niidday meant twelve. It was Eyktar-stad. This habit had become a second nature, which they kept up because of its being a part of an organism, and arranged all tlieir appointments to meet it in Greenland, somewhat farther south. The boy Lcif when he went with his father had tlic habit. When, fifteen years later, to man- hood grown, he bought Hjarnis ship and manned it with tiiirty-five sailors, he found a body of men who had lived in the haljit of a lunch at half-past four, and needed it ; and when they ail reached X'ineland, they found it convenient — indeed necessary — to observe the hour of 4:30 for cykt, the .'\fternoun Lunxii. There was only one day in the whole year in Vineland, in which there was a shade less of light at the breakfast and at the afternoon meal. The injlcxihility of habit preserved for us the time of its sunset, and with it the length of the shortest day, in Vineland. TiiK Length ok the Shortest Day ok the Year at Lkik's Mouses IN Vineland. In addition to what has alreadj- been said as to liow the length of tiic shortest day of tile \ear came to have such siffnificance, I give the following. Autumn lasts till the sun sets in !•>> ktarstadr ; winter till the (vernaO equi- nox; spring till the May "moving days;" summer till the autumnal ciiuinox (Snorri). On this, I'aul Vidalin, and after him Bishop h'inn Jiinson, assuming that the beginning of winter corresponds with that of the Icelandic c.ilendar, — the work between the nth and the 17th of October, as the sun sets on the 17th of October at 4:30 at Reykholt, the lesitKnce of Snorri, — I'^yktarstadr was in- ferred to be 4:30 P. M. ; thus making, Storm suggests, cykt the hour between 3:30 and 4: 30, This is on the notion that eykt referred to an hour and not to a point of time at the end of the hour. With the idea that the term referred to an luuir, it was found that while the beginning of the region of nine hours for the shortest day would be, as given by Rafn, in the region of Newport, the point of exactly eight hours for i ^ tB ) 104 TllK LANDFALL OK LEIK EKIKSON. rf the shortest day would be found iiDith of llie latitude of St. John's, Newfound - laud (^more strictly at 49' 55')- The region throughout which the length of the shortest day ( December 2 1 1 would be between nine hours and eight hours would include Nova Scotia near its northern limits. The determination of the latitude of a shortest day of nine hours, as given by Rafn, was 41' 24' 10'. This, revised by Professor Hugge of Copenhagen, gave 41° 22'. Mr. Geelmuyden, observing tliat neither the effect of the precession of the equinoxes nor that of refraction had been taken into account by Professor Hugge, revised his solution and gave, as published in Professor Storm's paper, the latitude of the shortest day of the year nine hundred years ago as "42' 21'" (^ about that of Boston).' . The late Mr. Arthur Wellington Reeves reo,'iested Captain Phythian, Supcrin- tenilent of the United States Nav.il Observatory .it W.ishington, to repeat the calculation of Mr. Geelmuvden. Their results alike niaile the beginning in a sliortest day of eight hours, — that is, the northernmost point where Leif could have passed his winter. — somewhere not nro]>ose depends of course upon the mterjirct.!- tion of the data fnrnishe- «)] \M ' \ cos (^ COS 8 / where is the latitude, X the declination of the sun, and C t'lc zcnilh distance of the sun. For the shorUst day of the year looo A. u. in the latitude of Cambridge, Mass., wc have the following data : — ^ = 4j° 2i' 48.3", the latitude of Cambridge Observatory (Mass.), (= 90° -|- 16' (the mean semi-dianielcr of the sun) -}- 34' (the mean refraction at the horizon), = 90° 50'. 8 = — J3»34 25'5-" " Hence we have — log sin 'i [(+(o278 log sin 3i [{— (0 — «)] =9.3332732 log cos ^ =9.8684621 log COS 8 =9.9621546 log sin Yi P = 9.7468421 ••• /i P = 33° S .1. i i,-;., ,; lam :ii W atntivw n A -^^m^ •<, ■• ■ r • » ' ^ ^J lio.Mli 'lillM 'il.!...^!!. \\ ll. I l.i" li. %'^ ANU SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 107 ^ the occasional mild winters, and the native fruits and grains mentioned as characteristic of Vineland in the Sagas of Leif and Thorfinn, and in the relation of Adam of Bremen. SlMMARY. Thus have been brought into harmony the ancient geography of the North Atlantic, as shown on Stcphanius's map, with the more recent on the Admiralty charts and the work of the United States Coast Survey; the records of sailing-time, and the directions in which the wind blew to Bjarni and to Leif; the coast lines and topography and their distinguish- ing features, described by one and recognized by the other; the st'Ty of Thorwald's broken keel set up at Kjalarncs as told in the Sagas, and the story as told on the s/a>ic tablet found in an ancient grave ii't far from Norman's O, across the bay from Cape Cod ; the undercurrent of details murmuring through the Sagas of Erik the Red and Thorfinn Karlsefni, and the lesser strains of Thorwald and Thorhall, of Tx rker and Freydis, of Gudrid and Snorre Thorbrandsson, ail in the same key ; the story of the King of Denmark to Adam of Bremen of the Vine- land of wine and cereals, and the stories of Leif and Tho nn of the Vineland of grapes and corn ; the furs of the Northmen and of the Breton French ; the fish-pits and the sacred fish at the spawning season, and also the time of the young corn-plants ; the pavements of Stony Brou,. and the fishway at Watertown, the ancient Norumlxga on maps and in records from 1520 to 1634; the maps of Champlain and Lescarbot, with the rela- tions of Purchas ; the walls, docks, and wharves a league above Leif's houses, at the head of tide-water on the Charles ; and lastly, the length of the shortest day of the year in Vineland, in terins which vual it.s latitude and at the same time refer it to astronomical observation, — all these have been brought by research, mainly in the field, into harmony with oiii another, and with the conclusion ih.at the Landfall of Leif was in the lati- tude of Boston, and his Vincland-home in the basin t)f Charles River in till' State of iMassachusetts. io8 THE LANDFALL OK LEIK ERIKSON, What nkxt of tuf. Northmen ? It requires liule knowledge of human nature to sec that after the report brought home by Leif and Thorfinn of the attractiveness of the country, wliere grapes and corn grew without culture, and where the win- ters were not severe, others would repeat Thorfinn's effort at coloniza- tion; that in time these efforts would be successful; and that ulti- mately the people of Greenland would be transferred, as a whole, to the more attractive country. The Northmen coming down liere would brino- their language, and impress it more tir less on localities, streams, bavs, etc., and we might expect to find traces of these names still Is it possible to find traces of the habits or the language of the Northmen in the X'ineland to which Leif came? It has been intimated in my preceding paiiers that the number of Northmen who came was large, and that to some extent they became merged in the native people. The drift of my immediately preceding paper — "Thf Defences of Norumbega"— is to show that Norumbcga was a sea-port, from which considerable commerce was cirried on, and that there were white people throughout the territory of New l^ngland. Of the-e white people, Peter Martyr. Merrera, Navarettc, Verrazano, and lacciues Cartier have written. It is recorded of the whites that they had blue eyes and red hair, and that they maintained habits eminently characteristic of the Northmen. Among other things, they pre.serveil their own ancient hi-tory in their families by recitation and song (by rci)caliiig Sagas). They kej.t tame deer, and made cheese from their milk. They maintained commerce in furs, fi>li, and choice wood. Among them were S,ri^-,i mat, — \h<^ Snc-.c,l ii,i„ t|,^ «,.a.' Ttiorlli.ir.^ Shkh. Tl... Kr.nch (llplonmll.f!. hIwsv, r-ni, n.lu.rr.l tl,.t |»„,t(.ti was l„,ilt nitliln thv ..Tijttiml limits ..f ft *>^m««QML ..;:R=■ i /^--o., '^ iHJ^l.<"\' v,-^..-^-^-^.-^': t^ .a f^■•^p^^^■ •.v,»4 v»a:.. : .->-.:^^^ }■ ■■7',. f ^ V-,. w/ AM. / \ /; ) irtlBtli'i* ;!(«' !J^"' "■!'■<;! :.;tii I'-f" "». -•»)!!; i| ^ij ;1: ,(■;,,, H '..ll l\ ■ ( 'IVll!<\ >ltl«l'l »' I**, ^ 1 AND S1T1-: OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 109 Siurn Asbrandson, — ])erhaps also those of .St. Brandan, and of St. Culumba (see Gaffarel and Beauvois), the legends of the Basques, and of llie white men encountered by Columbus in the West Indies. (.See Ir\ing anil Herrcra.) My next paper will trace the connection between the Northmen and the name of the Western Continent. The name seems to have arisen in Vineland, which, in all its extension (see map, page 29), was regarded by the Northmen as a part of the discovery by Erik when he fell upon Greenland, in 982. The natives of Vineland could not easily utter "I'irikr" or "/Kirekr" (Norse forms) without prefi.xing an «/, — out of which, to the listener, arose " Hm-erik.i " -- Amf.ric.\. ' .S"iJj,v got hi (gooil t.ilkor) was the phr.isc among the Senec.i Indians applied to a missionary { ' i-i f .M.\r Of Southern Point oh Gkef.ni.and from Hvitserker (Capb Farewell) Northwestwari), including KklKSEJURDER Willi UraTTAHLID (Kbik's IIoISE) KhiKSOE, ANIl Nl'IMllROUS SETTLEMENTS. (From Danish Archives, Cronan, Dutvvery oj Amtricii.) A P V II N 1) I X. A SUMMARY OK THE VINELANU SAGAS IN rERINGSKIOLDS EDITION OF THE HEIMSKRINGLA OF SNORRI STURLEYSON. iil I. Leif Kuikson Uaiti/kd. TllAP summer [999 a. t>., fifteen years after the settlement of Greenland], Leif the son of I'jrik the Red came from Greenland to Norway. I. eif visited King Olaf was converted to Christianity, and remained that winter with the Kinsj. Ici.i AM) CllKlSlfANl/.i:i). But when King Olaf had nearly prejiared his army for departure from Nidaros, he placed tiensmen [retainers] over all Thr.iiulheim's districts, shires, and provinces. 1 12 TIIK I.ANDI AI.l. or I.r.IK ERIKSON, i To Ici'l.uul he sent Gizur the Wliite iind HjaUi Skcj:;i;i;ison to advocate Cliristianity ; and with them he sent a priest iiaiiud 1 hi)rmotl and other urd.iiiieil men. Hut he retained as hostages four Icelanders, whom he deemed the noblest; namely, Kjartan Olafsson, Ilalldor GiRlmmulsson, Kolbein 'Ihoriiarsson, and Sverlin^; Riinolfsson. Hut out ut' tji/ur's auvl iij.ilti's travels it remains for me to relate, that they reached Iceland before the Althing met ; ' that they went to the Assembly, and that Chris- tianit\' was at that Althing legally adopted in Iceland, and thatsunmier every man was baptized. GrEEM.AMi ClIRlSTIAN'IZKD. During the same summer [a. D, iooo] King flat sent I-eif Eiriksson to Green- land. On the sea he picked up a crew who la\' on a shii)'s wreck and were helpless. .\nd then he fouiui Vineland the Fair, ami came that summer to Cireenl.uul, bringing with him a priest and preachers, and went to his father at Hrattahlid. After that he was called " I.eif the I.ucky." Hut his father s.iiil it was about even, — that he had saved a crew at sea, and brought a juggler [so he called the priest] to land. 11. HjAKM IU:kiii.fsso\'.s Voyack. Heriulf was the son of Hard Herjulfsson. a relative of Ingolf the Colonist.' To him Ilerjulf Ingulf had given the land between Vog and Reykj.mes. Ilerjtdf dwelt first at Drejistukk. His wife was named Thorgerd; but their son, Hj.\rni. He was .1 man of great promise. When tjuite young, he longed to go abroad, and soon acquireil both wealth and distinction, and jiassed the winters abroatl and with his father alternately. It was not long before Hj.irni owned a trading-vessel. Hut the l.i-,t uintiT he was in Nonva)', his father, Ilerjulf, ilisposed of his farni ,inil wiiit to Grecnlaml with Ivirik. Along with Ilerjulf was a SaNon,^ a Christian, — the same who composed llafgenlinga I.<-iy [The Song of the Tempest]. In it occurs the following stanza, the forty-ninth : — ' Atlhitii;. the general a-sHcin'.'fv i)f the Icchnilic ri>mmon»T.illh Thcic the piusllv iii.igistratcs ifihfiir) aiid other cliiefs l^iyr/'v?'" I imt tvci\ vear tn cn.iit laws and adminislct jusliie l>iirmi; the lirsl stixty-six iKarsl of the oloniiation ptri.xl (UHjx.imi liJ) there w.as no .Milling, Inil the kailin); mrn hrld thiir meetings at Kjal.irncs. in the south of Iceland The Althing wa» iiiaugur.iicil in i)ya a. i>., and was held cvciy year at Thingvellit until the year iXoo. Then lliete was no .Mthiiig untd l.S4i; hut since then, the nuMlern Althing ha* liecn held .it Kevkjavik. ■■' Inp'.ll. a Norwegian thief, wai the first Scandinavian colonist in Icclanld and less able to bear t the ship; and there was then but a short distance to go to the ship. Hut the horse which larik rode stumbled, and he fell otf and injured his foot. ' Jhiull, Rliricr, 'ir iletp snow remainin'.; "ii ihc grniinil from vc.ir to vc.ir. ' More literally, " not inquiring or curious." ' l..itutiUtt. laiid searrli. /i V .1 \ it •l 11 \ AND SITE OK HIS UOUSKS IN VINKLAND. "5 Then said l';irik, " It is not clucrccd that I slioiild discover more countries tiuin this one we now inhabit; and farther sliali we not together travel." Kirik then returned to Jirattahiid; but Lcif went to his siiip, and his companions, a crew of thirty-five, with iiini. In their company was a German, named 'lyrkir. They then fitted out their shii), and when they were ready, sailed seaward. They now found tliat country first whicli Mjarni liad lound last. Tliere they stood in, cast anchor and put out a boat, and went ashore, but Cuuld see no grass [herbage]. Great glaciers covered the iiighhinds, but it was as one flat rock from tlie sea to tiie glaciers. The country appeared to be utterly worthless. Then said Leif : " The same thing has not happened to us which did to lijarni, that we have not stepped ashore; and now I shall give this country a name, and call it Helluland [Flat-Kock land]"' They liien went to the ship, and put out to sen and found another country. They again sailed to land, cast anchor, put out a boat, and walked ashore. That country was level and wooded, and white sands in many places where they went, and not steep along the sea. Then l.eif said : " This country -iliall be named according to its qualities, Markland '^ [Woodland]." Then going down again t.. the ship ,\s cpiickly as possible, they sailed seaward, and for two ila\s they sailetl with a northeasterly wind until they sighted land. They sailed to the country, and came to an isl.uid which lay to the north of the mainland, walked ashore there, aiul looked about in fine weather. They noticed that dew was on the grass, and happening to touch it with their hands and put it into their mouths thought they never had ta>tcd anything so sweet as that. They then went to their ship, and sailed into that sound which l.iy between the island and the ness which jutted out north of the mainland, and steered westward past the ness. There great shallows extended at ebb tide, and then their ship stood aground, and then it ap- peared far from the vessel to the .sea. lUit so eager were they to go ashore, th.it they could not wait until the sea should return to their ship, but leaped ashon- where a river flowed out of a lake. Hut when the tide returned to their ship, then tl -y took the bo.it and rowed to the ship, and it moved [floated] up into the river, and then into the lake. There they cast anchor, and carried their leathern ham- mocks" ashore, and made booths there. They then decided to dwell there during the winter, and erected there a large building There was no lack of salmon, either in the lake or the river, and greater salmon they had never seen. Hut the ipialit)- of the country w.is so good according to uh.it it seemed to them that live-stock would not ncctl provender in winter. \o frosts came there during the winter, and ' More litor.illy, " Kl.i);stnne-l.ind." //Mi. i flatstone or tl.ii;stonc. '■' M.UKiii of iMilliv.itid linil. The ii.iinc C.ipe St M.irk i* found in thi* region, on cirlv m.ip5. " //<).//,■/. plural of //lij/if. .1 naulic.il lirni for " h.immiirk " Tlice li.ininiotks were leather b.ags. and the sailors used lu luiiig them .ashore .and keep ihein in the iiarliorliooths (Vigfusson) IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) t ^ / O {./ ^ MP ^ ///// A C/x 4e 1.0 I.I 1.25 !ff iia 2.5 i^'' 111 - IM IS 2.2 2.0 1.8 1-4 11.6 V^ <^ ^3 c>^ /A %s y Photographic Sciences Corporation 4^ w\ <^ L1>' N> CV^ O^ ^I4 '<> 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 #3 ^ ///„ cP |i I I. ii6 THE LANDFALL OF LflF ERIKSON, i\ H « herbage withered there but little. Day and night were there more even than in Greenland or Iceland, for on the shortest days* the sun had the place of eykt* and the place of dagmal.^ But when they had completed the building, Leif thus addressed his companions : " Now will I that our company be divided into two divisions, for I want to have this country explored. One division shall remain at home about the house,* the other examine land ; but go no farther than that they may come home in the even- ing, and separate not." For a while they did this. Leif alternately went with them or remained about the house. Leif v.'as a large and strong man, of commanding presence, wise, and in all things moderate. Leif stays in Vineland during that winter, then sails to Greenland and saves a castaway crew. One evening it so happened that one of the cn:w was missing; it was Tyrkir the German. About this Leif was greatly troubled ; for Tyrkir had been with him and his father for a long ^imc, and had been very fond of Leif in his childhood. Leif accordingly greatly upbraided his companions, and prepared with twelve men to seek him. But when they had gone but a short distance from the liouse, Tyrkir walked towards them and was received with great joy. Leif directly observed that his foster-father was in good humor. Tyrkir had a prominent forehead, twinkling eyes, a tiny face, was small of stature and insignificant in appearance, but well skilled in every handicraft. Then Leif addressed him : " Why wert thou so late, my fosterer, and separate from the company?" Tyrkir then spoke first a long while in German, and roiled his eyes about and made grimaces. ]iut when they did not understand what he said, he after a while spoke in Norse, saying, " I did not go much farther than ye, yet I have some news to relate, for^ I found wine-wood' and grapes." " Can that be true, my fosterer?" said Leif. " Certainly it is true," quoth Tyrkir, " for I was born in a country where neither wine-wood [vines] nor grapes were wanting." They now slept over the night. Hut in the nmrning Leif said to his companions, " Now we shall carry on two occupations, each alternate days, — either gather grapes, ' SiamJfui, the shortest days in winter • EyktarstaJr, — t.\\M is, the plate (>( eyll, or fytlmart, at the lime of the fiflh watch; or afternoon lunch-time. ' D,t,fmJAi-!ta(/r,thc place o( (/,icm W.inting it. Rafn. from " There .ilso were fields," etc., to "buikling timber." '' So in all the manii'icripts. Hv,iti, — Modern Icelandic, hvM: D.inish. hvede ; Swedish, ivrtf ; German, H^riun (compare the adjective h//iir, " white |") —the name of a grain yielding white flour. [The Icelandic word in Thorfinn's Saga is /nritinx (i/j- — earofcorn; li-.cilinx is, literally, " while car-of^:orn "). Corn is a generic term in Kngland, under which is included wheat as a cereal grain. Wheat was not known in America before Champlain, while Indian corn was indigenous. The Vineland discoverers would naturally give the name kveiti tn a new kind of grain yielding white flour, such as Indian corn. — E. N. H.] * Literally, "self-sown." « \Mii!urr. m. Old High Oerm:,i,. tuastir ; Old F.nglish. masfr. — K. N. H.J " i.itcr.illy, " ntountains under snow." fr ! if ii8 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, Leif took fifteen men from the rock. After that he was called " Leif the Lucky." ' Leif now acquired both ample wealth and honor. That winter a great sickness broke out amon(j Thorir's crew, and carried off Thorir and a great part of his com- pany. That same winter also died Eirik the Red. There was now great talk about Lcif's expedition to Vincland ; and to Thorvald his brother it seemed that too little of the country had been explored. Then said Leif to Thorvald, "Take thou my ship, brother, if thou wilt, to Vinelan(.l ; but yet I would have the ship first go after the timber which Thdrir had on the rock." That was done. IV. Thorwald Erikson's Expedition. Of Thorvald, Lei/'s Brother, ami the Skraeliiigf in Vineland. Now Thorvald prepared for this expedition, taking with him thirty men, accord- ing to his brother's advice. Then they fitted out their ship pnd sailed seaward; and there is no report of their journey until they came to Leifs booths in Vineland, and stayed there during the vinter, and subsisted by fishing. Hut in the spring Thorvald said that they slioiild make the ship ready, and that the ship's boat and a number of men with it should go along the west of tlie country and explore there during tlie summer. The country appeared to them beautiful and well wooded, and but a short distance between the forest and the sea and white sands. Numerous islands were there, and great shallows. Nowhere found they any abodes of men or beasts; but on one island far to the west they found a corn-shed.''* No other vestiges of men did they find, and in the autumn they returned to Leifs booths. Hut the following summer Thorvald went in the trading-vessel along the east side, and rounded the country on the north. ^ Then a great storm fell u|)on them off a certain headland, and they were driven there ashore, and broke off the keel from under the ship. There they had a long ilelay while rejjairing the vessel. Tlien saitl Thorvald, " Now will I tliat we erect the keel lu-re ujion this ness, and call it Kjalarnes [Cape (^ the KcelJ ; " and they did so, Then the}- sailed away and stood eastward off the land,* and into those bays which there lay nearest, and to that headland which there jutted out. ' Leifr. inn hef'i-ni ; so c.tllcd in Iceland, rather than Leif Kiriksson. ' Kornhjiilmr, — literallv. " a corn (c grain< helmet ; " a covering for corn or grain. ' N.tutical, " stood otT the north shore." * Aiisir /yri: l.inJil,— literally, '• Eastward, .irounci the land " The |)repositio;i fyrir with accusative, and joined to an aiHerh denolin); direction (a auslr. the east), signifies motion toward tlial direction (expressed by the ending " ward " in »uch compuundi a»" eastward") and beyond or past the place or point occupied by its I ( M I AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 119 This headland was all covered with forest. Here they ran the vessels into an anchorage and put out gangways, and then Thorvald walked ashore with all his companions.' Then said Thorvald, " Here it is beautiful, and here would I make my home." They then walked to the ship and saw on the sand, in from the headland, three hillocks ; and going thither they saw three skin-boats,^ and under each three men. They then divided their forces, and seized them all except one, who escaped with his boat. They killed the eight, and then walked back to the cape ard looked around there, and saw towards the inner part of the bay several hillocks, which they .supposed to be dwellings [.settlements, h'i'^ir.] Thereupon a drowsiness came over them, so great that they could not keep themselves awake, but fell all asleep. Then a cry broke upon their ears, ard they all awoke. Thus said the cry: " Awake, Thorvald, and all thy companions, if thou wilt .save thy life; and go on board thy ship with all thy men, and depart from this country at once ! " ' Then from the inner part of the bay countless skin-boats approached and bore down upon them. Then said Thorvald, " Let us advance the battle-covers [shields] to the gunwale, and defend [ourselves] as best we may, but not attack them much." This they did. Hut the Skraelings shot upon them awhile, then fled each as best he could. Then Thorvald asked his men if any of them were wounded. They replied that they were not. " I have," said he, " received a wound under the arm. An arrow flew between the gunwale and the shield and lodged in my armpit; here is the arrow still, and this will cause my Gcath. Now I advise this: that ye prepare for your journey homeward as quickly as possible. But me ye shall carry to the head- land which I thought so inviting to dwell on. Mayhap that my words will come true, and that I shall dwell there awhile. There ye shall bury me, and place a cross at my head and another at my feet, and ever after call the headland Krossanes [Cape of Crosses]." Thorvald then expired, and his companions did everything as he had directed. Afterwards they went and joined their companions, and then each told the other such tidings as they knew. That winter they dwelt there, and gathered wine-wood [grape-vines] for the ship, and grapes. Hut in the spring they set sail for Greenland, and reached liiriksfjord in safety, and told Lcif the sad tidings. object {^ee Vigfnsson) [ne.imish s.ivs " After tlint thev sniled aw.iy round the ea.stern shores of the land, and into the muuths of the friths which lay nearest thereto, and to a point of land which stretched out and was covered .ill over with wood " Smith says : " Having done as he desired, ihcy sailed along the coasts leaving that neck to the eastward, .and entered the mouths of the neighboring b.iys." Both are consistent with the Coast Survey chart. — E. N. H ] I [The Gurnet. — E. N 11.] ' l!irchb.irk canoes. • [This cry was probably from one of Leif's party who had remained in Vineland — E. N. H.] f;;l ti\ I20 THE LANDFALL OK LEIF ERIKSON, lit 4| :■ n Thorstein Erikson's Expedition to Vineland. In the mean time it had come to pass in Greenland that Tliorstein of Eiriksfjord had taken a wife, and obtained Gudrid, Thorbjorn's dau";hter, who had been married to Th6rir Eastman, mentioned above. Thorstein Eiriksson became now desirous to go to Vineland after his brother's body, and accordin{,'ly fitted out the same vessel, and chose all his crew accordinjj to size and strength, taking with him twenty-five' men and his wife Gudrid. When ready, they sailed seaward and out of sight of land. All summer they were tossed about, a.id knew not whither they went ; but when the first week of winter was past,^ they made land at Lysufjcird in Greenland, in the Ves- turbygd [Western settlement]. Thorstein now sought winter quarters for them, and obtained lodgings for all his sailors; but himself and his wife were still without a place. Accordingly, they two had to remain for some nights at the ship. One day it so happened that men came to their tents early. Their leader asked who were in the tent. Thorstein answered, " Two men ; but who asks? " " Thorstein is my name," replied the other, " and I am called Thorstein Svartur [the Black], But my errand hither is to invite ye both, thee and thy wife, to dwell with me." Thorstein Eiriksson said he would consult his wife. But she bade him decide this. Accordingly he accepted the offer. "To-morrow, then," says Thorstein, "I shall come for you with a team. I do not indeed lack anything to provide for ye; but it is very lonesome in my house. There my wife and myself dwell alone, for I am very singular.^ 1 also have another religion * than \e have, and yet I suppose yours the better." In the morning, accordingly, Thorstein the Black came after them; and they went with him to dwell, and were well entertained. Gudrid was a noble-looking woman, discreet, and knew well how to conduct her- self among strangers. It happened early in the winter that a disease broke out among Thorstein Eiriks- son's sailors, and several of his men died. Thorstein bade them make coffins about the bodies of the deceasetl, and move them to the ship, and there keep them. " For I will," said he, "have them all taken to luriksfjord next summer."' ' PeringskjriUl translate? hiilfaii prijja taiii; by " fifty." '■^ I The winter was reckoned by the .incieni Northmen to commence on the first Saturday which fell between the nth and iSlh days of October — J. T. SMITH. It was on this .Saturday that Eykt at Reykholt occurred at •unset. — E N. II. 1 ' F.iiif'ykkr, sclf-villcd. • Literally, " custom." » An illuMlraiion of tl e rigid adherence to the ceremonies of the Church. %\ '/I i AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 131 It wa3 not long before the sickness came into Thorstein's home ; and his wife, named Grimhild, was the first to take the disease. She was an exceedingly large woman, and strong as a man ; but yet the disease laid her low. Soon after this, Thorstein Eiriksson became ill; so that they were both sick at the same time. And then Grimhild, the wife of Thorstein the Black, died. But when she was dead, Thorstein, her husband, walked out of the sitting-room ' after a board to lay the body on. Then said Gudrid, " Be not long away, my Thorstein." He promised this. Then said Thorstein Eiriksson, "In a strange manner does the housewife now act; for now she rises upon her elbow, pushes her feet out of bed,* and fumbles for her shoes." Just then Thorstein the Black came in ; and directly Grimhild lay down, and then it creaked in every timber of the house. Thorstein now made a coffin about Grim- hild's body, and buried it. He was a man of great size and strength, and required it all before he could move her out of the house. But now Thorstein Eiriksson became rapidly worse, and died. This weighed heavily on his wife Gudrid. They were then all 'in the same sitting-room. Gudrid had been sitting in a chair in front of the bench on which her husband had lain. Then Thorstein the Black took her off the chair into his arms, and sat down on the other bench opposite the corpse; and reasoned with her in many ways, and consoled her, and promised that he would accompany her to Eiriksfjord, and take with her the body of Thorstein her husband, and those of his companions. " I also shall," added he, " take more servants into the house to comfort and cheer thee." She thanked him. Then Thorstein Eiriksson sat up and said, "Where is Gudrid?" Three times he said this, but she remained silent. Then she said to Thorstein [the Black], " Whether shall I make reply to this or no?" He bade her not answer. Then Thorstein the Black walked across the floor, and sat down on the chair; but Gudrid sat on his knees, and he said, "What wilt thou. Namesake ? " After a while the other replied : " I should like to tell this Gudrid her destiny, that she may the more easily bear my death. For now I am come to good abodes of rest. But this I have to tell thee, Gudrid : that thou shalt be married to an Icelander, and ye two shall live long together, and from ye will spring many men,^ it,; 1 ' Stofa {Gnxmm, Stubt ; Danish, i'/c*; Swedish, j/x^ ; English, " stove "), a bathing-room with a stove; a small detached sinRlc room ; a ladies' sitting-room in ancient dwellings, distinct from skili. Along the walls were arranged beds and benches, as may be seen in the b,iJ >lof,s, in Iceland, at the present day. '' S/oH: a timber, a board A'uiiu stotk, the board in the side of the bed. ' Noble men. 133 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, vigorous, illustrious, excellent, and lovable. Ye two will go from Greenland to Nor- way and thence to Iceland, and there make your home, and there ye shall dwell a long time. And thou shalt live longer than he. Thou shalt go abroad and go south,' and come ' ick to Iceland to thy estate ; and then a church will be erected there, and in it shalt thou be ordained a nun. And there shalt thou die." Then Thorstein sank back, and his body was enswathed and taken on board the ship. Thorstein the Black kept well everything he had promised Gudrid. In the spring he sold his farm and live-stock, made the ship ready, engaged a crew, and went to Eiriksfjord, where all the corpses were buried at church. Gudrid went to Leif at Brattahlid ; but Thorstein the Black took up his abode in Eiriksfjord, and dwelt there while he lived, and was always looked upon as an able and valiant man. VI. Of Thorfinn Karlsefni's Expedition to Vineland, and of THE SKRAELINGS. The same summer,' there came a ship from Norway to Greenland. The skipper* was named Thorfirin Karlsefni. He was the son of Thord Hesthofda, the son of Snorri, the son of Thord from Hofdi. Thorfinn Karlsefni was very wealthy, and re- mained during the winter at Brattahlid with Leif Eiriksson. Soon he began to pay his attentions to Gudrid, and wooed her; but she referred to Leif to answer on her behalf After this she was betrothed to him, and their wedding made that winter. Then there was the same talk as before about going to Vineland ; and people greatly urged Karlsefni to go, — both Gudrid and others. The expedition was accordingly decided upon, and he engaged a crew of sixty men and five women. Karlsefni and his crew made that agreement that they should all share equally whatever goods they obtained. They took with them all kinds of live-siock, for they intended to settle the country if they could do so. Karlsefni asked Leif for his houses in Vineland ; but he said he wouli' lend his houses, not give them. After this they put to sea, and arrived safe ind sound at Leif's booths, and car- ried their leathern hammocks ashore there. Soon a great and good catch came into their hands, for a large and good whale [ro/ir whale] was there cast ashore. Accord- ingly they cut up the whale, and now there was no lack of food. Their cattle went up 1 So Rafn and PcrinRskjold. I.ittrally, " Ro South," hut idiomatically meaning " go to Rome." » Thit is. when Thnrstcin tho Hl.ick came to F.iriksfjord. ' Literally, " tht man who steered the ship." !l! i AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. '23 into the country ; but soon the male animals became unmanageable, and gave much trouble. They had brought with them one bull. Karlsefp.i had his men fell trees and hew timber for the ship, and placed the wood on a certain rock to dry.' They made use of all the natural wealth there, both grapes and all kinds of game and other products. This first winter past, the summer came, and then they became aware of Skraelings. Out of the woods where their cattle were [grazing], a large company of men emerged. Then the bull began to roar and bellow exceedingly loud; but at this the Skraelings became frightened, and ran away with their burdens, which were gray fur, sable fur, and all kinds of peltry; and now the Skraelings turned to Karlsefni's farmstead, and wanted to enter the houses, but Karlsefni ordered to guard the doors. Neither understood the other's language. Then the Skraelings let down their bundles, and untied these and offered to them for barter, and wanted mostly weapons in exchange. But Karlsefni prohibited to sell the arms. He now contrived a scheme in this way: he would have the women carry out milk (or milk-food^) to the Skraelings; and when they saw the milk, then they would buy that and nothing else. This trading expe- dition of the Skraelings amounted, then, to this, — that they carried their goods away in their stomachs, while Karlsefni and his companions retained the bundles and peltry; and with this result the Skraelings went away. It row behooves to relate that Karlsefni had a strong stockade made about his building, and fortified the place. At this time Gudrid his wife gave birth to a male child, and this boy was named Snorri. Early the next winter the Skraelings came to them, much more numerous than formerly, but having the same goods as before. Then Karlsefni said to the women, " Now ye shall carry out that food which was most used on the former occasion, and nothing else." And when the Skraelings saw that, they threw their bundles inside the paling. But Gudrid sat in the door within by the cradle of her son Snorri. Then a shadow fell on the door, and there walked in a wom.in with a black woven [cloth] kirtle,' rather short of stature, wearing a ribbon^ about her head, with light brown hair, wan-looking, and so large-eyed that none had ever seen so large eyes in any man's head. She walked to where Gudrid sat, and said, " What is thy name?" The other replied, " I am called Gudrid ; but what is thy name? " " Gudrid am I hight," replied the other. Then the housewife offered her hand, inviting her to sit beside her. But it hap- pened, all at the same time, that Gudrid heard a great crash, and the woman dis- ' [The transLition by Mr. J- Eliot Cabot differs in two particuLirs, both of which commend themselves. It rcids : " Karlsefni had wood filled and hewn, and ttotighl to Iht i/iif, and the wood filed on the cliff to dry" — K.. N. ii] - Riinyl, milk or milk-food ' This, iind the command of the Icelandic tongue, determined the Norse origin of the woman. * A habit still preserved among some Indian tribes. \\ * t I l! 124 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, appeared ; and just then one of the Skraelings was killed by one of Karlsefni's men,' because he had tried to take away their weapons. And now the Skraelings went away as quickly as possible, but their clothing ' and wares lay there behind. No one had seen the woman but Gudrid alone, [Let us consider this incident ! The house is surrounded by a stockade of upright logs, — that is, a palisade for defence against surprise or as-^^ult in Thorfinn's absences. The door does not open on hinges, but is arranged to slide in a groove parallel to tlie threshold. As there were no windows, the figure of the woman in the doorway darkened all the room. A woman glides in, and is kindly invited by a gesture to sit beside Gudrid. The unexpected guest is fair, has large eyes, auburn hair bound by a band of cloth — a snood — around the forehead. It was for such use that the red flannel was sought and purchased, as described in other Sagas. The woman wears a woven gown. Here is the textile fabric of which, vaguely, Champlain heard six hundred years later. With the shout or scream near by attending the killing of a Skraeling by one of Gudrid's housemen or guard, the woman vanished. How natural to ask the name of the woman by the side of Snorri's cradle, — Gudrid, — and how natural the repetition of the inquiry, and the answer ! This strange woman spoke in Icelandic ! What a world of revelation is presented in this fact ! JVorse people were already here. One realizes what Freydis said : " Expeditions to Vineland were commonly regarded as profitable and honorable." There was commerce here. Gudrid told the dignitaries at Rome of the beautiful country in the far wes.t ; of Vineland the Good, and of the Christian settlements made there by S<'andinavians. Adam Von Bremen was told by the Danish King that he had subjects there, in the land where corn grew wild and grapes abounded. And this occurred near Gerry's Landing, between Norse women, nine hundred years ago ! — e. n. h.] "Now we shall have to form our plans," said Karlscfni; " for I suspect they will visit us the third time, and for war and in great numbers. We shall now adopt this plan, — that ten men go out on this ness and show themselves; but the rest of our force shall go into the woods, and there be cutting a clearing for our cattle when the enemy emerges from the forest. We shall also take the bull along, and let him go ahead of us." ° But where the mi.'eting was intended the landscape was such that a lake was on one side, but forest on the other. Karlsefni's plan was accordingly adopted. The Skraelings now came to the place which Karlscfni had intended for the fight; and there a battle was fought, and large numbers of the Skraelings were slain. Among the Skr^.eiings there was one large and handsome man, and it seemed to Karlscfni that he was their chief. Now, one of the Skraelings had picked up an axe and looked at it awhile, and lifted it against his comrade and struck him. The man ' Litera'ly, "man-servant." ' Klitnli, cloth or clothes • A curious coincidence with the pl.in of ihe early New-England colonists, who, when working in the field, placed the cattle between themselves and the forest as scouts; for on the approach of the Indians the cattle used to show signs of great terror AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. »25 immediately fell down dead. Then the great man took the axe and looked at it awhile, and then hurled it out on the sea as far as he could. The Skraelings then fled, each as best he could, to the woods? ; and thus their conflict for the time ended. Karlsefni and his men stayed there that whole winter; but in the spring Karlsefni announced that he would not remain there any longer, but would return to Greenland. Accordingly they made ready for the voyage, and took with them great wealth in vines, berries, and peltry. Then they put to sea, and brought the vessel safe and sound into Eiriksfjord, and abode there during the winter. VII. Of Freydis, Eirik's D.\UGHrER, and her Expedition to Vineland, AND her Crimes. Once more there arose a talk about an expedition to Vineland, for it was looked upon as profitable and honorable. That summer in which Karlsefni came from Vine- land, a ship came from Norway to Greenland. Two brothers, Hclgi and Finnbogi, steered the ship. They remained in Greenland that winter. These brothers were Icelanders by birth, and hailed from the Austfjords [the East-fjords]. The narrative now turns to where Freydis, Eirik's daughter, made a trip from her home at Gardar, and visited the brothers Helgi and Finnbogi, and proposed to them to go to Vineland with their ship, and that they should go halves in' whatever wealth they obtained there. The brothers agreed to this. She then went to see Leif, her brother, and requested him to let her have the buildings which he had caused to be erected in Vineland. But he replied as on a former occasion, — said he would lend the houses, not give them. Between F"reydis and the brothers mentioned above there was an agreement that either party should have thirty men skilled in arms on board that ship, and women in addition. But Freydis broke this at once, and had five r • : more, and hid them so that the brothers became not aware of :hem until they came to Vine- land. And now they put to sea. They had agreed before that they should sail close together if possible, and there was but little difiference between them ; but yet the brothers arrived a little before the others did, and had then carried their stores up to Leif's houses. But when Freydis arrived, then her crew cleared th.- ships and carried their goods to the houses. Then said Freydis, " Why did ye carry your goods in her"? " " Because we thought," replied they, " that every word of agreement between us would be kept." "To me," she answered, " Leif granted and lent these houses; not to ye." " In wickedness shall we brothers not be able to match thee," said Melgi. ' Literally, " go halven in," etc MU 136 THE LANDFALL OF LFIF KKIKSON, I h m « They then carried their goods out and put them ' carefully away, and made a shed building fo' hemselves farther from' the sea on a lake shore, and fortified it well; but I'-reydi. ad her men cut timber for her ship. Winter now approached ; and then the two brothers proposed that athletic games should begin, and chief amusements be held. This was done awhile, until the men made accusations against one another. Then a quarrel arose, and the games were discontinued, and intercourse between the houses ceased. This went on during a great part of the winter. One morning early it came to pass that Frcydis arose from her couch and dressed, without pulling on her shoes or stockings.'' Hut the weather was such that much dew had fallen. She took her husband's cloak and put it on, and then she walked to the house of the brothers. But a ..iiort while before some man had walked out and shut the door half-way.® She opened the door, and stood in the doorway, and there remained silent. Hut Finnbogi lay farthest in the house. He was awake, and said, " What wilt thou hither, Freydis?" She replied, " I wish that thou wouidst arise and walk out with me ; I want to speak to thee." He did so ; and they walked to a tree which lay by the wall of the house, and sat down there. " How dost thou like it here? " she began. " I like the country well, but do not like the coldness between us, for it seems to me without good cause." * " Now spcakest thou the truth," she replied ; " and so it seems to me. But my errand hither is that I would trade vessels with ye brothers, for ye have a larger ship than I ; and I would away from here." " That I shall bring about," said he, " if thou art then satisfied." With this they separated ; and she walked home, but Finnbogi went to his bed. She then stepped into her bed with cold feet; and with that Thorvald awoke, and asked why she was so cold and wet. But she replied in a great huff, — " I had gone to the brothers to ask leave to purchase their ship, for I wanted to buy a larger vessel Rut they became so incensed that they beat me and ill-treated me. Rut thou, poor wretch ! art not likely to wish to avenge or obtain satisfaction for my shame nor thine. I now begin to feel that I am no longer in Greenland, and from thee I shall obtain separation unless thou avenge this." ' *«(ii »<■/««; wanting in Rafn. ' Ra(n . forr =fjarr, — that is, " farther away." Peringsltjold : fyrr, possibly ^fyrir, " before." » Uofm/. ♦ SHIiifdi. shoe-clothes. ' Literally, lokuit hurdiniri i tiuitjan klofa, — that is, " shut the door to the middle of the groove." *■ More liicr.illy, " The qiLiIitv of the country seems good to mc, but that coldness between us seems to me evil, for I think it without good cause." Ptistr, storm, anger. I AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 127 But he could not bear her rebuke.'and bade his men arise at once and don their armor; and they did so, and went to the house of the brothers and walked in upon them asleep, and then led each one out as he was bound. But Freydis had every one who came out put to death. Thus all the men were killed ; but the women were still alive, and no man would kill them- Then said Freydis, " Hand me the axe ; " and that was done. Then she fell upon ' the five women who were there and left them dead. After this wicked deed Freydis and her men went to their own house, and no one could notice anything but that Freydis thought she had well managed. And to her companions she said, "If we have the good fortune* to reach Green- land, then," added she, " shall I have that man's life that tells of these events.' But let us say that when we left they dwelt there behind." Now, early in the spring they fitted out that ship which had belonged to the brothers', and loaded it with all the goods which they could obtain and the ship could carry. Then they put to sea, and had a quick passage, and brought their ship into Eiriksfjord early that summer. There was Thorfinn Karlsefni with his ship, bound for a voyage and awaiting a favorable wind. It is said that no costlier ship ever left Greenland than the one he commanded.* Freydis went to her farmstead, which all the while had remained unharmed. She granted her followers a large booty, for she wanted to have her crime kept secret. But all were not so reserved '^ in remaining silent about their evil deeds and wicked- ness, that these did not come to light at last. And finally this came to the ears of her brother Leif, and the story seemed to him most horrible. Lcif then took three men of Freydis's crew, and tortured them all at the same time to tell* the truth about this event And their evidence was all one way.' Then said Lcif, " I have not a heart to deal with my sister as she deserves; but this I prophesy, that their offspring will never prosper." * And thus it came to pass that from that time no one thought of them* anything but evil.'" ' rfqr Ann, attacks. « "If it (alls to our lot." » All'imliim. events, deeds. ♦ I.ilerallv, "steered." » t/MJhm ,ml:an, " reserved, close ; " but in modem Icelandic, " faithful to his word." So translated by Peringskjnlil and Rafn. » l,iter.ally, " to tell." ' That is, " agreed on everything." • Literally, "thrive." « i"rcy» More literally, " counted them worth anything but evil." 'U I 4 11 128 THE LANDFALL OK LEIF ERIKSON, MosuRR-wooD. Thorfinn Karlsefni and his Lineage. It is now necessary to relate that Karlsefni fitted Dut his ship and sailed from Greenland to Norway. He had a speedy passage, ant' came to Norway with every- thing safi: and sound, and remained there during the winter and sold his wares. He and his wife were highly favored by the leading men of Norway. Hut in the follow- ing spring he rigged out his vessel to sail to Iceland Hut when he was all ready, and his ships lay oflT the bridges waiting for favorable wind, there came to him a German related to people in Hremeu ' in Saxon-land.' He desired to purchase of Karlsefni his /nisa-snotni.^ " I will not sell," said Karlsefni. " I oficr you half a pound of gold," * said the Southerner. Karlsefni thought this a good bid, and closed the bargain. The German then went away with the husa-siiotra. Hut Karlsefni knew not what wood was in it. It was mi.surr^ from Vincland. And now Karlsefni put to sea, and brought his ship to Skagafjord, in the north quarter of Iceland. There he remained during the winter. In the following spring he bought the GlumbiV Estate [see Henderson's map of Iceland], on which he built a house, and where he lived during the remainder of his life, much honored. f! If! From Karlsefni and his wife sprang a numerous and illustrious race. Thorfinn being dead, Gudrid and Snorri remained on the estate, — the latter being the son born in Vineland. When Snorri married, Gudrid took a journey to Rome, and ' I.it^r.i]ly, "rel.ited to |icoplc in liremen " Drcmen w.i.s a strongly fortified commercial city, of great enterprise .inil we.ilth, on the Wcscr. **>.i\iinl.inil, — a gcri r»1 name for the ri-gion of Ilanse towns. ' [Perincskjiild's transLaiion into Swedish is 10.;^, "scales for weighing;" .and his transl.itiim into Latin is Lignr.im sttilmtm. Anilriws and Stodilard give for shin a, " ( I ) steelyard ; also, a balance, a goldsmith's scaler. (;) polelwr of a chariot ; also, a kind of platter, so called from its rescnihlancc to the scale of a steelyard or balance " These I-itin eipiivalcnts mav reconcile the variously suggested meanings The steelyard .and .scaler perform somewhat the same otfice, and the names might 1k' equivalent, and were iiuleetl. The bar of a steelyard, pole-bar, brootn-handle, and house-bar — all (tf which have been suggested bv translators — have a common quality. The sealc-pan is thin and concave. One made of masur-wood — burr wood — might lie thin, not liable to crack or warp, and 'aslinn. The nilerhicing fibres of such wood give v.alue to it for chalices, goblets, and maces ; besides, it was a deciirative wood. In such wood the Hremen merchant could see a value for industrial uses, — as we use like wood in the form of veneers for furniture, for interior linish. for bowls, kncadingtroughs mortars (for household use), etc. — K. N 11 ) * .l/.>>^. eight ounces. Keamish estimates the value at sixteen potmds sterling Herrcr.a, the Spanish amhor. mentions a half mark as equal to eight imnces. '■ IVringskjold and Uafn, mauuir ; Vigfusson, mMUur ; Modern and Old High German, masur = knorri^tr ,111 mm, hi i High German and Old English, m.rcer, — a maple-tree, spot wood Canto V, last stan/a, and .^p|icndix, Sc.itt's "Lord of the Isles": " Itring here," he said, "the makers four," — large wooden ilrinking cups or goblet*. 1 AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 129 afterward returned to her son's house, who had meantime built .1 church at Glumbae. Gudrid subsequently entered a convent, and passed the remainder of her life in solitude. Snorri had a son who was named Thorgeir. He was the father of Ingveld, the mother of Bishop Brand. The daughter of Snorri, Karlscfni's son, was named Hall- frit, f Icr son was Runoif, the father of Bishop Th6rlak. Karlscfni and Gudrid had another son named Bjarni. His daughter was Thornun, mother of Bisliop Bjarni. l'"rom Karlscfni many great and good men are descended ; and of ail men Karlscfni has most clearly reported of all these e.Kpeditions of which anything is now related. IX. Narr.\tives of Tiiorfinn Karlsefni.' There was a man named Tliord, who dwelt at Hofda, in Hcifda-Strand. He married Fridgerda, daughter of Thonr the Idle, and of I'Vidgerda the daughter of Kiarval, King of the Irish. Thord was the son of Biarne Byrdusmjor, son ol Thor- vald, son of .\slak, son of Biarni Ironsides, son of Ragnar Lodbrok. They had a son named Snorri, who married Thorhild the Tartridge, daughter of Thord Geller. They had a son named Thord Horsehead. Thorfinn Karlscfni was his son, whose mother's name was Thorunn. Thorfmn occupied his time in merchant voyages, and was thought a good trader. One summer he fitted out his ship for a voyage to Greenland, attended by Snorri Thorbrandsson, of Alpafjord, and a crew of forty men. There was a man named Biarni Grimolfsson, of Breidafjord, and another named Thorhall Gamlasson, of Auslfjoril. The men fitted out a ship .at the same time, to voyage to Gtecn- land. They also h.id a crew of forty men. This ship and that of rhorlinn, as soon as they were ready, put to sea. It is not said how long they were on the voyage; it is only told that both ships arrived at I'.riksfjord in the aiitunm of that year. Leif anil other people rode down to the ships, and friendly exchanges were made. The captains requested I.eif to take whatever he desired of their goods. Leif in return entertained them well, and invited the princip.il men of both ships to spenil the . winter with him at Brattalilid. The merchants accepted his invitation with thanks. Afterwards their goods were moved to Br.ittalilid, where they hail cver\' entertain- ment that they could desire; therefore their winter quarters pleased them much. When tlie Yulc-fe.ist began, Leif was silent, and more depressed than usual. Then Karlscfni said to Leif, — ' \Thi« tr.iiis, on the top of a rock, where he la)' breathing, blowing through his nose and mouth, and muttering. They asked why he had gone there. He replied that this was nothing that concerned them. They said that he should go home with them, which he did. Afterwards a whale ' [This term .ipplied to the inhabitants of both Scotland and Ireland. — E N ii.] ^ See iVolt-s, p. 141. " [The two preceding paragrajihs evidently l)elong ti> another Saga; the succeeding paragraphs have also the appearance of being fragments of scp.iratc rel.itions. in all probability misplaced by a copyist. In the original of this Thorfinn Sag.i, l.cif was called Kirik. The Sagas of Kirik Raudc (Krik the Red) include the stories of the expeditions and iliscoveries made by the f.itlier and the sons. (In the dc.tlh of the father .and both brothers, I.eif succeeded to the patrimony and all rights of discovery of the family, and also, It would seem, to the name of the father —EN 11 ] f: f il. hi 132 THE LANDKALI. OF LEIF ERIKSON, was cast ashore in that place, and they assembled and cut it ii[), not knowing what kind of a whale it was. They boiled it with water, and devoured it, and were taken sick. Then Thorhall said, " Now you sec that Thor is more prompt to give aid than your Christ. This was cast ashore as a reward for the hymn which I composed to my patron Thor, who rarely forsakes me." When they knew this, they cast all the remains of the whale into the sea, and commended their affairs to God. After which the air became milder, and opportunities were given for fishing, and from that time there was an abundance of food ; and there were beasts on the land, eggs on the island, and fish in the sea. ! ! They say that Thorhall desired to go northward around Wonder- Strand to explore Vineland, but Karlscfni wished to go along the shore south. Then Thorhall prepared himself at the island, but did not have more than nine men in his whole company; and all the others went in the company of Karlscfni. When Thorhall was carrying water to his ship, he sang this verse: — " People s.iid when liitlier I Came, that I the best Drink would h.ave ; but thi? land It justly becomes me to blame. I, a warrior, am now obliged To bear the pail; Wine touches not my lips, IJut 1 bow down to the spring." And when they had made ready and were about to sail, Thorhall sang, — " Let us return Thither where tour] countrymen rejoice. Let the ship try The smooth ways of the sea, While the strong heroes Live on Wonder-Strand, and there boil whales, — Which is an honor to the land." Afterwards he sailed north, to go around Wonder-Strand and Kialarncs; but when he wished to sail westward they were met by a storm from the west and driven to Ireland, where they were beaten and made slaves. And, as merchants reported, there Thorhall died. It is said that Karlsefni, with Snorri and Biarni and his comrades, sailed along the coast south.' • ' (This p.iraRr.iph l.iid the ffuiiKliiion nf the notion ih.il Thorfinn went south of Cape Cod. I have referred to it in the text, page 85 Of the early Norlhmcu coming to Vineland none passed Mononioy. — E. N. H ] :* i AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 133 They sailed long, until they came to a river flowing out from the land through a lake into the sea ; here there were sandy shoals, which it was impossible to pass up except with the highest tide. Karlsefni sailed up to the mouth of the river with his folk, and called the place Hop. Having come to the land, they saw that where the ground was low, corn grew, and where it was higher, vines were found. Every river was full of fish. They dug pits where the land began, and where the land was highest; and when the tide went down there were sacred fish in the pits. There were great numbers of all kinds of wild beasts in the woods. They stayed there half a month, and enjoyed themselves, and did not notice any- thing ; they had their cattle with them. And early one morning, when they looked around, they saw a great many skin boats [birch-bark canoes], and poles were swung upon them, and it sounded like reeds shaken by the wind, and they pointed to the sun.' Then said Karlsefni, "What may this moan?" Snorri Thorbrandsson replied, " It may be that this is a sign of peace; so let us take a white shield and hold it towards them." They did so. Thereupon they rowed towards them, wondering at them, and came to land. These people were swarthy and fierce, and had bushy hair on their heads; they had very large eyes and broad cheeks. They stayed there for a time and gazed upon those they met, and afterwards roivcd away southward around the ness. Karlsefni and his people had made their houses above the lake, and some of the houses were near the lake, and others more distant. They wintered there, and there was no snow, and all their cattle fed themselves on the grass. Hut when spring came, they saw one morning early that a number of canoes rowed from the south around the ness, — so many as if the sea were sown with coal; poles were also swung on each boat. Karlsefni and his people then raised up the shield, and when they came together they began to trade. And these people would rather have red cloth; for '.ins they offered skins and real furs. They would also buy swords and spears; liit this Karlsefni and Snorri forbade. For a whole fur skin the Skraclings took a p oce of rod cloth a span long, and bound it round their heads. Thus went on their traffic for a time; then the cloth began to be scarce with Karlsefni and his people, and they cut it u]) into small pieces, which were not wider than a finger's breadth ; and yet the Skraelings gave just as much as before, and more. ' Possibly the paddles were simply held up while the canoes Hoatcd with the ebb tide. When they returned up the river they /uJ to row; it was aj^niiitst the tide. '34 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON, It happened that a bull which Karlsefni had, ran out of the wood and roared aloud; this frightened the Skraelings, and they rushed to their canoes and rowed away toward the south, and after that they were not seen for three whole weeks. But at the end of that time a great number of Skraelings' ships were seen coming from the south like a rushing torrent [ebb-tide. — E. N. U.], all the poles turned from the sun, and they all yelled very loud. Then Karlsefni's people took a red shield and held it towards them. The Skraelings leaped out of their vessels, and after this they went against each other and fought. There was a hot shower of weapons, be- cause the Skraelings had slings. Karlsefni's people saw that they raised up on a pole a very large ball, something like a sheep's paunch [seal-skin distended. — E. X. H.], and of a blue color; this they swung from the pole over Karlsefni's men upon the ground, and it made a great noise as it fell down. This caused great fear with Karlsefni and his men, so that they thought only of running away, and they retreated along the river; for it seemed to them- that the Skraelings pressed thm on all sides ; they did not stop until they came to some rocks, where they made a bold stand. Freydis came out and saw that Karlsefni's people fell back, and she cried out, " Why do you run, strong men as you arc, before these miserable creatures, whom I thought you would knock down like cattle? And if I had arms, methinks I could fight better than any of you." They gave no heed to [her?] words. Freydis would go with them, but she was slower because she was pregnant ; still she followed after them into the woods. She found a dead man in the woods ; it was Snorri Thorbrandsson, and there stood a flat stone in his head ; the sword lay naked by his side. This she took up, and made ready to defend herself Then the Skraelings came toward her. She drew out her breasts from under her clothes and dashed them against the naked sword ; by this the Skraelings became frightened, and ran off to their ships and rowed away. Karlsefni and his men then came up and praised her courage. Two men fell on Karlsefni's side, but a number of the Skraelings. Karlsefni's band was overmatched. And now they went home to their dwellings and bound up their wounds, and considered what crowd that was that pressed upon them from the land sitle ; and it now seemed to them that it could hardly have been real people from tin- ships [canoes], but that these must have been optical illusions. The Skraelings also found a dead man, and an axe lay by him ; one of them took up the axe and cut wood with it; and then one after another did the same, and thought it was a fine thing and cut well. After that one took it and cut at a stone so that the axe broke; and then they thought it was of no use because it would not cut stone, and they cast it away. Karlsefni and his people now thought that they saw, although the land had many good qualities, that they still would always be exposed there to the fear of attacks from the original dwellers. They decided, therefore, to go away, and to return to their own land. 1 «' It #t AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 135 They coasted northward along the shore, and found five Skrachngs clad in skins sleeping near the sea. They had with them vessels containing animal marrow mixed with blood. Karlscfni's people thought that these men had been banished from the land; they killed them. After that they came to a ness ; and many wild beasts were there, and the ness was covered all over with dung from the beasts which had lain there during the night. Now they came back to Sfraumfjord, and there was a plenty of everything that they wanted to have. It is thus that some men say that Biarni and Gudrid stayed behind, and one hundred men with them, and did not go farther; but that Karlscfni and Snorri went southward, and forty men with them, and were not longer in H6p than barely two months, and the same summer came back. Karlsefni then went with one ship to seek Thorhall the Hunter, but the rest remained behind ; and they sailed northward past Kialarness, and thence westward, and the land was upon their larboard. There were wild woods over all, as far as they could see, and scarcely any open places. And when they had sailed long, a river ran out of the land from west to east. They sailed into the mouth of the river, and lay by its banks. [The foregoing paragraph should follow that immedi- ately after Thorhall's second song. It shows, like the one just before it, the confu- sion of the copyist, or of the original scribe; and the two together testify to the conscientiousness of the relators. — E. N. Ii.] i s I'M I NOTES. Map of Ruysch. This map of Ruyscli, 1S07, lias preserved — attaclied naturally to the coast of Asia, in keep- ing witli tlie Ideographical notions of the clay — a wonderfully accurate chart of the coast from Cape Ann around the peninsula of Cape Cod and including Narra,i;ansett liay. The In. Uiggettu — the dialectic equivalent of Uagaduce (Trumbull) and of Aqnidnet (noted Ijy Roger Willi.inis, and still preserved at Newport) — seems to have marked the extent of the I'ortuguese explor.itions. We have, besides, Cape Portogessi in tlie latitude of Cape Coil; Terra Nova, the land discovered by John Cabot in 1497; the Rio (Irande, — the name, preserved for more than a century, of the Charles, —with llie Archipelago (of (iomez) at its mouth, and the Baia de Rockas, for which the numerous " Breakers " of the Coast Survey chart furnish the equivalent. There are also given Gloucester Harbor, and the mouths of the gulfs on either side of Salem Neck. The point of greatest significance is the island — In. Bacca- lauras — against the end of Cape Cod. Let us refresh tin' recollection for a moment by glancing at the si dure of Cape Cod. It has been studied by .Agassiz as a tine exhibition of terminal mor.iines. The whole region is charac- terized by glacial deposits. The town of I'ly- mouth includes more than a hundred lakes and ponds which occupy depressions in the great group of moraines. Indeed, a large part of this region of the State is marked by them. The chain of moraines extending eastward and north- ward from Onset I'ay to the Race where the last great glaciers died out in Cape Cod B.iy, was doubtless traversed by many channels that have, from that day on, been closing U]) with sand through the great natural agencies. — currents, winds, and waves, — until now, with the excep- tion of a few points, on either side of the penin- sula the beaches are continuous. New beaches form, and old ones are froin time to time swept away, in the neighborhood of Chatham. They show the instrumentalities which, in times gone by, have modified the character of the Cape, and which were quite adequate to connecting the beach and the cluster of moraines and the sand- dunes at the northern end, with the Highland Range. In some instances channels have been in part filled by blown sand. Such is the channel of the ancient Bass River, still open at both extremes and for a considerable distance inland, and there closed by blown sand. This was prob- ■ably the channel traversed, according to tradi- tion, by the ship of the New Haven colonists in 1639. It was, I conceive, this channel that made all easterly and northerly from it the Island of Louisa of Verrazano (1 524), which was, he writes, Irian ^u!ar ami of ahvut the she of the /slaiiii of Rhodes. Cabf.nas. To return to Lok's map containing the inscrip- tion, "J. dabot, 1497.-' If Cabot's chart of 1497, referred to by Raimundus (see Dr. Deane's paper in the "Narrative and Critical History of Amer- ica," ill. 54.), was incorporated into Lok's general map, including Cartier's river of Canada of 1534- 1535. — the St. Lawrence, — on the one hand, and Verrazano's isthmus. — which I have else- where (in '■ Address." r.S,S7, and also in " Landfall of Cabot" and "Site of Norumbega." 1S.S6) pointed out as the narrow strip eastward from Barnstable, to thr north of which would, of course, be Cape Cod, — then this portion of the map, as- suming it to bear properly the date of 1497, con- tains the earliest recognition, after the Saga time, of the Norse name Cahi;nas. '38 THE LANDFALL OK LEIK ERIKSON, I 'J iif i>ri 113 The Icelandic schoolmaster Slepliaiiins, in his map illustrating the j,'toj{rapliy of Xiiiclanil anil the bay it (aces, (•ives the nortlicrn angle within Cape Ann to Englishmen, and the southern sa- lient (Cape Cod) to I'romontorinm Vinlandi;e. Cosa had recognized, in 1500, the previous pres- ence of the English in this bay. It is in the inscription "mar descnbierta por inglescs." In point ot time this is next to the insiription, "J. (labot, 1497, " virtually endiirsed by Lok in his dedication to Sir I'hilip Si.»/,! Aiitt ) on llie island \Sliaiimi-y\ that one could scarcely walk in con- sL-epience of the eggs." (lieamish, l*rince Society's I'uhlications, p. 51,) "2. On the island there were an immense number of eider-ducks, so that it w.is scarcelv possible lo walk wiUiont treading on their eggs." (Ueamish, Prince Sociel\'s Pultlicatimis, p. 105 ) "3. There was a grc.it nuniher of birds, and it was .scarcely possible to tiiul a place for their (cet among the eggs." (IJe Costa, I'rc-Cohunbian Discovery nf America, i86S„ p. 66 ) It is evident thjt some of the narrators or translators did not regard the source of the eggs as eider-ducks. Fifty years ago there were on the coast, in lali- r An alliisi.in, finssibly. to his .ibandcmmcnt of the con- templated fxpc'ilition sonthward I'om Straumfjnrd (Chat- ham), when he went to seek The'-han. 140 THK I.ANDKALL OK I.KIK KRIKSON, IS ,1. ,« ■I tucic 4i°-42', some twcniy-fivf distinclly named kinds of wild ducks wtll known to sportsmen and collectors of birds. This list ini ludcd livu kinds of coot, of which the eider duck wis one. A single one, oidy, of all these dilferent kinds of ducks was known to nest in the rej;ion, .ln,is .\poiiui. (Letter of Dr. De Kay, first znoloj;ist of the Natur.d History of New York, to Thomp- son, hist />iiif; on tlhiit." Fifty years .ago, says an old farmer, boys were allowed to go from Cliatliam (against the ancient Straumfjord) "gull-egging," immedi.itcly after corn-planting, some time in June. This was .1 kind of holiday privilege. The eider-duck is a native of the Arctic re- gions. Sportsmen having preserves among the islands off the main shore of l.al)rador tell me that the nesting-season of eider-ducks is in early summer, and that they nest in great numbers on the islands along the coast, in tut'ts of shrubbery. I'rof. A. S. I'ack.ard observed their nests on this coast in places so sheltered, atiii not on saml. The egg.s Thorfinn's party observed were on the iiinil, and therefore, it is to be presumed, could not have been eider eggs. A little reflection will Impress the careful student of the incompatibility of the eiiler-ihick coming to'nest so far south, to a region of forests and me.adows and grapes and corn growing wild, such as the .Saga describes. They came here possibly in southern migration after nestini^. Numerous ducks, of various kinds, and eggs on the sand very close together were seen undoubtedly, as they may have been seen any time within the last two hundred and lifty ye.irs; but the circumstance that one of the Saga rel.itions docs nut specialize the kind of birds is more in keeping with the prob.diilities than the statement of the other two lel.itions, - that the eggs were the eggs of eider-ducks. Icelanders h.ive informed me that the eider is domesticiled in Iceland, and that special arrange- ments are made for its nests. As the (locks of ducks were so large fifty years ago, and so tatnc that individu.il birds were somititnes knocked down with a c.iiie when they were (lying across a beach from water to water, it is not impossd)le that the Northmen of Thortinn's party may have knocked down a duck of the family of coots, — which embraces the eider, — and so, with the observed profusion of eggs, laid the foundation for the statement in the Sagas. TosinuN OF riiK lloi-. In the S.iga of Thorfinn, after a version of the death of Thorwald, it is stated that " they looked upon the mountain range that was at ll(>p and that which they now lound, as all one, and it also ,i/>f>iitr,-if ti> fit' ofi-(/iiiil length from Sirauiiijjorii lo fiotli /ifdirs." Thorlinn, sailing across the bay from the Cape near I'rovincetown, may have caught glimpses of the hills in the interior beyond the ( iiirnet and I'ly- moiith, and conceived them to be identical with, or of the same range as, the Hills (Blue Hills of Milton) visible from the li.ack I!ay(H('ip) and from many points about lioston. The language of the Sagas — dilVerently ren(lered by lieamish. Smith, Klioi, De Costa, and others — appear to leave it possible that Thorfinn m.iy have seen these hills from SIraumey (Chatham lieach), and that he was leil lo a personal examination of the locality. The Coast Survey map (p. 04), presenting the stations used in triangulalion of the coast of Mas- sachusetts, exhibits an open trough for the line of vision from the Hlue Hills to Chatham. In onler lo its service in Thorfinn's interest, there must have been eminences from which the inter- vening hills would be below the range of vision. .Such elevations I did not find. The wiilth of land area, made up of moderate hills and valleys, on the line toward the Hlue Hills from Chatham Lights, w.ts .at least some sixteen miles. I :if i AND SITK OK HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 141 Icarntil from an .issistaiil to the former Chief of Ihf Coast Survey, - t'aplaiii Elilrid^e, — still re- siding on tlie spot, that llie observations between tlic station nearest to Cliatli.im and the illue Hills were coiidueted with the aid of rockets. The distance for direct vision was too jjrcat. Only looniinj; (refraction) could have availe;incral direction from the north beyond the (inrnet I have re- peatedly seen from the elevation above I'rovince- town, and .dso from the Highland Light, lint in sailing from I'rovincetown to lioston, on a line passing near to Minot's Ledge Light, I carefully watched for the appearance of the Illue Hills, and did not distinctly see them with a glass until approaching Cohassct, or later, I'oint Allerlon. I am satislied, therefore, that although the lilue Hills are several huiuln-d feet high, it was not the lilue Hills proper, but what seemed to be a con- tinuation of tlic range, that was seen by the Northmen from the Curnet, or from the emi- nences of the north end of Cape Cod. I'ROMONTORIKS OF CaPK Cull ANM THE C.URNKT. Let US put together the quotations from the Sagas bearing on the relations of the two pro- montories to each other. Lcif hnil toni'hcd on the island " lying opposite to the norlliirly part of the niiiinl.-xnd," and "siiik'd throii)rh !i Ijiiy wliieh lay lielwecn the inland and n pronionloiy running; towards the northeast, iinil direelinjj their conrsi' westward, they passed lieyoiid the pronionlory." He enine lo "where a river Hows frcnn tlie land through 11 lake into the sea." "Thorhall the Hunter wished to go north, round Furdtistrand and Kjalarncs, anti so to explore Vine- land." Thorhall's desire to exp!t>rc Vineland betrays that his visit to the region had been for a brief inlcrvnl only, and had preceded his visit to Straumfjord. "TliorhnH's partvtlicn sailed northward round Kur- dustraiidir and Kjalarncs. liut when they desired to sail Ihcncc westward they were met by an adverse tempest and driven off. " Thorlinn went with one ship to seek Thorhall tin, Hunler, the rest runiaining behind. Sailing north- K'./n/ round Kjal.irnes, they went uifi/wiiiil after pass- ing //(,!/ (•ntmoiilctry lying to their left hand. There they saw extensive forests." 'I'liere were, then. t7Vt> promontories. On one Leif had landed. On this Thorw.dd had set up the old keel in the sand, and called the place Kj.v larnes. Thortinn, some years later, came upon this old keel, and recognized the place as Kjalarncs, h.aving heard Thorwald's story. How plainly this Saga shows that the experiences of Leif and Thorwald were familiar to Thorlinn and Thor- hall I Krinn this point Thorwald and Thorfinn sailed wi-slcr/v to the scioinl promontory. Here Thorwald was buried. Thorlinn sailed past it on his return from Siraumcy to the site of I.eifs houses, as Lcif had done after his Landfall, to where "a river (lows from the land through a lake into the sea." Let us pause a moment to consider. . /// three, — I.eiJ\ J'horuKi/ii, nil,/ T/iorfinn, — as we shall later still more plainly see, /;(((/ /'een at a point — a promnntory — soiil/ienst of Vine- land. To one the point had been recognized as an i.flan beathes. from the possibility of being \'ineland. Southwest of (Heenl.ind, across the Str.iils of lielle Isle, lies .NcwInuiKlland. This w.is the last point left by lii.irni on bis return from the South before reaching lireenland, and the first touched liy l.eif going South, after leaving (ireen- land. l.eif iiillcii it Helliiliinii. Its shore was covered by flat rocks (see phoiograpli, p 31). — its interior marked by mountains covered, at the times of liiarni's and Leif 's visits, with snow. Marklanil, the next projection, was •■ low, Hat, and overgrown with wihmI; ant. For some time before 1S55 it was cut through against the Chatham Light, constituting the entrance to Chatham liarbor. Hut the storm of l.'^;^. which c.irricd aw.iy .Minot's Ledge Light, cut down the bluff against the old Chatham I,ii;ht-houso. and undermining the tower wlicre the bluff is not less than forty feet high, b.ack for three hundred feet, it obliterated the be.ich for the time being. The harbor was open at the date of the accompanying Co.ast Survey maps, but it is now closey currents). The channel between the island and the shore, only a few hundred yards in width in some places, was the Straumfjord, — a fjord /larini; a slroni; em rent throiii^h it. It is the same to-d.ay. To-day the current through this channel is about si.\ knots with either tide. The island — the long, narrow beach — is the great .shooting ground of Massachusetts sportsmen fo. duck, plover, snipe, etc., in their migrations north and south. From here, in the season, small birds by the thousand arc shipped daily to the (Juincy Market. Mere are quantities of gulls' eggs on the sand wastes. In earlier times, ship-masters have told me, the eggs were so numeious as to make it dillicull to walk with- out treading on them, — precisely the language of the Sagas. This was the spot which meets the needs of the S.tga that describes the movements of the Tlior- finn expedition before the defection of Thorhall, who wanted to go north around Furdiislrand, and 7oest~ii'arii to explore I'ineland. with whose location he was plainly fimiliar. It was clearly at the northwest of Cape C oil. This is in keeping with the remark of Stepha- nius, that the water south of Straumfjord was rcgardeil as a <;Hlf that separated Vineland. as an island, from .America. The presence of the Northmen in Narragansctt i'- i AND SITE OF HIS HOUSES IN VINELAND. 145 Bay, before and after tlie discovery of Vineland, is conceivable. Tlie liistorical record to wliich Stepliaiiius refers applies to the time before 1012. TllORFlNN'S Cl.IFK, AND THE CaPE ST. MaRGIIA- RITA OK VERRAZANO. The promontory at the southwest ; the expanse of the nnuUly banks of the meadows covered at high water; the very few points of hard soil where the crew could have landed, — that is, the points which were of solid mainland, and not marsh ; the rocks at College Wharf below half-tide where tlie Northmen jumped ashore in the fight with the Skraelings ; the creek, or bayou, where the vessel could be hauled up, ns Thorwald mentions, for the winter, and from which landing on solid ground on the southwest bank was not only easy, but the o«/cpoint where it was possible ; the course of the river .above the l.inding; the presence of salmon in the river : the birch-bark canoes resem- bling and suggesting the skin canoes with which they (the Northmen) were acqu unted, — all these are obvious to the careful student of the river and its history, although it may be very difficult to make it clear to one who cannot or does not visit the localities. Even the Skraelings, men- tioned in the Sag.as as dealers in peltry of various kinds and in quantity, were described by Alle- fonsce and Tlicvet, by David Ingram in connection with the story of Xorumbega, by the liretons, the Dutch, and the ICnglish. Hut there is one thing called for in the Sag.as that docs not now exist on the banks of the river. It is mentioned in the Thorlinn .Sagas th.U //.• pi/fii wod on a cliff near III,- ship to ./rv, where it might be swept by the breezes, and be not far from an adequ.ate depth of water for easy loading. Where is the clilT? All the wants of tlic narrative but this are met near Gerry's Landing, Symonds's hill, — the spot to which laden vessels came, and from which the supplies coming by water for the early Watertown were for a long time carried up. There is no other point on the river where the Northmen cnuld have landed on x\w soii;hwest,rn hiiii of the river, with a promontory at their south- west, from behind which above the landing the river issued to sweep past the dwellings down to the Lake, and where in a sheltered recess the ship could lie in safety through the winter. At no other point on the tidal portion of the river is the ebb current from the southeast to the northwest. The Saga demands a cliff at this particular point. The cliff is wanting. Fifty years ago the milldam across the B,ack Bay did not exist. Men who were living in Cam- bridge at that time may remember to have strolled along what was then called Bank Lane, a pathw,ay by which, skirting the meadow-banks along the river, the proprietors — owners of ripariiin rights in the gr.ass of the marsh lands— were able to reach and remove their hay. Between Gerry's Landing' and Mt. Auburn Street, abutting on the river, tliey recall, as I do, — and I h.ave been a res- ident here only forty-four years, — the steep, beet- ling bank, swept by the current of the Charles at its base. Some remember the swallows' nests near the top. The height of the bluff is vari- ously remembered; but the late Mr. Coolidge, who owned the neighboring land, and who culti- vated for a term of years the higher land north- west of the landing, remembered it as sloping slightly toward the foundation of the City Hos- pital, and as having .about the same height as the foundations of his own residence, — thirty-five feet above high- water mark. Tliis bluff was cut down to aid in filling low places in Cam- bridge, and for filling up the mill-dam across the Back Bay. Thus we have the Last requirement of the Sa- gas, — the cliff on which Thorfinn piled his hewn wood to dry, and from which it could be easily shot t3 the vessel to be stowed aw.iy for its voy- aire. How tlie wood became wet and needed to be dried before shipping, belongs to another line of inquiry.'' It will f.acilitate the understanding of the text if it is remarked here, — wli.it will become obvious further on to one familiar with the locality, — that Leifs ship grounded on the Hats, prob.ably above Castle Island during ebb-tide, and that the men ran asiicre somewhere in the neighboHiood of Dock Square, or of East Boston. The tide was issuing between Copp's Hill and Noddle's Island (East Boston). When the ebb ceased and the 1 So called from its neamejs to tlie residence of Vice- President Elbridge Cerry. ni.w tlie home of Prof. James Kussell Lowell. « Sec " Discovery o( the Ancient City of Norumlwga," 10 146 THE LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSOM, I) riood-tide rose, " they passed up," — " floated " or "moved "up, — the river. Tliey could not sail up (the river was too narrow), and they were not rowed up. Direction of the Flow ok the Charlks. The river of Leif, up which he flontctU at the outlet of tlie lake between Copp's Hill on one side and Charlestown and Noddle's Island on the other, is still deep at low tide (Des Harres gives three fathoms, presumably at low water. V'erra- zano gives ei^l\t feel). Thorfinn and his com- panions sailed, or Hoated, up as far as the mouth of the river above (Cottai;e Farm Station on lios- ton and Albany Railroad), and called the pl.ice '• Hiip." This was the name of the Hack liay and meadow region above, covered with water at flood-tide.' The term is descriptive of a land- locked harbor, with the flood and ebb allernalely salt and fresh. (See Gloss.iry.) Thorfinn's approach to the site of Leif's houses is thus described; — Sailing; norlh around KjaLirnes, they went west- ward after passing Ihat /"rominiftiry [tljc (iurnct and Cohasset], the land lying to their left hand [larboard). There they saw c.vtciuleil f.)rests [the region from Ije- low Manomet toward Plymouth]. When tiiey had s.iiled for some time they came to a place where a riz'er Jiinucd from the s\nttht\ist to thf tiortftwest [Sy- nionda's hill near Cambridge City llospital.) Having enteied its mouth, they cast anchor on the southwtst- trn batik [mouth of the rivulet draining Mt. .\uburnl. — SMrni, p. 1S5. The only portion of the Charles where the current is from southeast to northwest is in the last quarter of a mile as it aporoaches Symonds's hill. See city map, page 94. The Gurnet Krossa-nes. The moraine of the Gurnet above high water is probably some twenty or thirty acres in extent; and the highest point —the Nose — on which the light-house (seventy-two feet tall) stands, which is probably several feet above the summit of the t The word " mouth " as applied to the rivfr seems to have been used to desij^u.ite .it least two localities — one bctwe-n Copp's Mill and Noddle's IsLind, another at Hrook- linc Hridge. Possibly there was another at the limit of flood- tide. original moraine (thrown up for purposes of mili- tary defence), may be some forty feet above high water. As it presents a bluff to the east — the ocean — it was once larger. The tide is some ten to twelve feet. The distance from the Spit at I'rovincetown to the Gurnet is some seventeen miles. It is not impossible that the altitude of the promontory was a|iparently greater from refraction at the time of Leif, as the I'rovincetown hills seemed higher from the (iurnet than they really were at the time of my last visit in the month of July. As some students of the subject have been led by its intrinsic difficulties to place Vineland on Nova Scotia, I have prepared a map showing where the shortest day of six, seven, eight, and nine hours would place Vineland, and where it could not be, under the topographical conditions supplied by the Sag.is. The shores of Markland (Nova Scotia) were sandy. The shores of Vineland (the Furdustrand — Straumey) were sandy. From Cape Chudieigh, the entrance to Hudson Bay (the northern limit of ISisliop Sveinson's Vineland) to lielle Isle was praclic.dly willioul beaches. From lielle Isle to Cabot's Strait, the eastern face of Newfound- land, the shore, like that of Labrador, is bold, rocky, desolate, and uiillioiil heailie^. The coast of Nova .Scotia is girt about with white sand- be.aches. The coast from Frenchman's Day to Portland is bold and rocky, and without beaches. From Portland south, with trifling in- terruptions, to Florida the coast is a long line of sany ini.ii,'inod tlienisclvos lo be surrmindcil on all -.i-lcs by tlic .Skraclinss. I'licy cliil not lialt till they rcaclicil some rocks, when tliey turncil alxiut .ind fought valiantly. •■ [■"reyilis, l.eif's half-sister, endeavored lo keep up with them. Tlic Skraelings pursucil her. She saw a man lying deail. This w.is Thorbr.and, Ihe sim of Sni.rri [SmilhJ, in whose head a flat stone was stickini; [a Hint arrow-head |. His sword lay nakeil by his side. This she seizeil, and pre- pared to defend herself. The Skraclings came up with her. She struck her breast with the naked sword, which so aston- ished the Skraclinns that they fled hack to their canoes, and rowed off as fast as thcv c