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IVIaps, platas, charts, ate, may ba filmad at diffarant rsduction ratios. Thosa too larga to ba antiraly includad in ona axposura ara filmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand cornar, laft to right and top to bottom, as many framas as raquirad. Tha following diagrams illustrata tha mathod: Las cartas, planchas, tablaaux, ate, pauvant Atre fllmAs A daa taux da rAduction diff Arants. Lorsqua la documant ast trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul clichA, 11 ast f limA A partir da I'angla supAriaur gaucha, da gaucha A droita, at da haut an bas, an pranant la nombra d'imagas nAcassaira. Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 TH 3fottatal OF TRAVELS THROUGH ^*#, THE NORTH-WEST CONTINENT ^^i OF AMERICA. 'NN* *f [Price One Shilling.] .'■•■.*,- ^ ■ A T ;• !■ . -I. '.; . OK JOURNAL OF Voyages and Travels, THROUGH ^ The NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF m '!.".'v>*^"». *'■ '^■. , "-i-'l ' THE YEARS 1789 and 1795, j| sv Mr. MACLAURIES. , - " '.■«».■ V ,,T. .}t J. ■ . ■'• ;. .■'•I -^ w ,., ■ i LONDON: 5 ; miNTED FOR J. LEE, N». 12, King Street, Covent Garden* ^ ^ ,,• 7' Smeefonf PrinUr, 148, ^/. Martinet lanff , ' -. ^ Charing Cross* . '><^'^-:- ^-^■v' f l802» -'A :;iV'.-i-. NARRATIVE of a VOYAGE THROUGH THE f # North'TVest Part of America^ PERFORMED IN 1789 AND 1793. Mr. I. Maclaiirios embarked in a canoe on Wednesday the third of June 1789, Jit nine o'clock in the morning, at Fort Chepewyan, on the south side of the Lake of the hills, in latitude 58. 40 N. longitude 110. 30 W. the crew consisted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their wives and a German ; they were accompanied also by an Indian, who had acquir- ed the title of English chief, and his two wives, in a small canoe, with two young Indians, his followers, in in another small canoe. These men were engaged to serve in the double capacity of interpreters and hutiters. They were also accompanied by another canoe equipped for the purpose of trade. In this, which was assigned to the care of M. L'Heureux, oneof the trading company's clerks, were shipped a stock of provisions, and a pro- per assortment of articles of merchandize as j)rcsents ta procure a friendly reception among the Indians, as well as a proper supply of arms and ammunition. They proceeded «long one of the branches of the" Lake, until they arrived in the Peace River, which at this spot is upwards of a mile broad, and heie assumes the name of the Slave River. At the close of the next day they came at the mouth of the Dog River, at which station the river they were proceeding in, is two leagues in breadth. In their course along the Peace or Slave River, they met with several falls, at which they \vere obliged to carry the canoes and goods over land, till they had passed them. On the ninth of June they entered a small branch of the river on the east bank, after a serpentine course, through which after about ten B Biiles ;. t-ii/'i* ■P,' ■V; I^Iadaurks' Journal over iVt ( ■ i ■ niilos they arrivod at the Shivc Lake, when they found a proat change in the weather, which was become ex- tremely cold. The lake was covered with ice which did not seem to have given way, except near the shore. The gnats and musquitocs had beeii very troublesome dnring tli(;ir passage along the river, bi'T they did not ven- ture to accompany thtin to this colder climate. The banks ol' the river were covered with wood, but the ground was not thawed above a loot in depth, n(»twithstan(ling the leaf was at its full growth, while along the lake there was scarcely any appearance of \crdure. The Indians informed them, that at a small distance from the river were extensive plains fre- quented by large herds of bufl'aloes, while the moose and rein deer kept possession of the woods. The bea- vers in great numbers build their habitations in the small lakes and rivers, and the mud banks in the river are covered with wild fowl, in vast abundance. From theiice they steered east along the banks of the lake, until they arrived at the houses built by Messrs. Grant and L'lleureux in 1785, where they landed, unloaded the canoes, and pitched their tents, and where they renuiined several days, being pre- vented from pursuing their course, by the ice. Here they obtained a quantity of tish, and some geese and clucks, as well as heavers. A westerly wind having at length chased a passage, they embarked about sun set, on the 15th of June, and landed on a small island, about half past eleven P. M. at which time the atmosphere was sufiicicntly clear to admit of reading or writing uithout the aid of any other light. On the next day they again emlxirked, but ■were much impeded in their course for several days by the floating ice. T hey caught some fish, aiid the hun- ters killed a rein deer, and its fawn, and shortly after- wards five lar^e and two small ones. On the 21st of June, Mr. Maclauries found the latitude to be 6l. 34 K. and on thc22d6l. 63 N. Though the weather was I *»' ■f 1 The North-west Continent of Amarica. •wa*; f;ir from heins; warm, they woro toimented and their u»sl intcrniptod by whole hosts of inus(juitoes. Oil the '^ikl of June thry arrived at three lodges of the llt'd Knife Indians,* of whom M. L'lleureux purchased upwards of cii^ht packs of good beaver and marten skins. They coidd gain no information from these Indians, that vmis material to the expei'.itiun ; but in order to save Jc. much time as possible in circumnavigating tfie b iV'j in the lake, Mr. Maclanries engaged one of the ln:lians as a guide, and ])nrchased a large new canoe for \\\m to embark in, along with two other young Indians. On the 'J.')th of June the latitude was found to be ir2. '2V N. Mr. Maolanries pointed out to the Indians the pn»bability of an establislunent heiniv formed there, for the purposes of trade, at wiiich they expressed great satisfaction, and pleasure. I'he land Idtherto on the borders of the lake had borne n barren aspect. It produced however great abundance of raspberries, goo:f a laige and spreading growth. I^anding on one of the i' lands in the hike, Mr. Mac- lauries was much sur[)rized at observing that the greater part of the wood, with which it had been h^rmerly co- vered, was cut down, leaving only the stumps. Upon enquiring the cause of this, he was infonned by the English chief, that some of these Islands had been some winters before inhabited by many of the Slave Indians, who were however driven away by the Kinstenaax, They proceeded traversing the lake and its bays, but were still interrupted in their course by the floating ice. On the 26"th of June, their latitude was 01. 4-0 N. 'I'he country seemed to be well stocked v/ith moose and rein deers, and also with white partridges, which at * So called frum cheir uling copper knives. t^is Machiuiioi^ Journal over 4 n this soason assume a grry color. Tlio Indians killcila «;oupIc of Swans. On tiic 2•.:,» The Korth-vccst Continent of America. •iU* I I seen bnt the Pine and the Bii' h, which were small in si/i', and Irsv in lUMnho'*, Tho ciunuit biicanie so slronj^ that it was at l('n»i;th in actnal obullitioii, and prochicod an lii>sin<4noi'5e like a kettle of water in a moderate b.t:ito of hoihni;. On the O'th of .luly, the sun set at fit'ty-tliree mimites past nine, and rose the next mornin'j; at seven niinnles before two : On the latter day, the river increased in bn.'adth, and the current began to slacken, 'i'iiey saw smoke on the North Shore, which tiny made c\ery exirtioa to approach. As they drew near they saw the natives ruiming about in much apparent confusion, some were makin.!:; to the woods, and others hurr^iiig to their Canoes, llaviu!; landed the Kngli'-h chief and his young men, they endeavoured to dissipate their fears, in which tiiey at length succeeded, and the fugitive In- diaas returned from their hiding places. There wimc hve families, consistii\g of twenfy-five or thirty por- ••-ons, of two ditl'erent tribes, the Slave and Dog-rib Indians, all of whom soon became viry familiar on receiving presents of knives, beads, hatchets, and other articles. Tilt only information that could be procured from those Indian-^, relative to the course Mr. Maclauries and Kis party were pursuing, was of the wihh'st and most fibul )us nature. It had the elfect however of tcrri- f}ing the Indians who attended tiie latter, whom it rrquired some troul>le to convince to tlie contrary, 'I hey however by desire of Mr. Maclauries persuaded VAC of these Indians to accompany them. These In- dians are a lean, ugly, ill-made people, particularly about tliC legs ; and many of them appeared in an un- healthy state, which may be attributed to their natural •filthiness. They are of a moderate height, and air far as could be discovered, through the coat of dirt £ad grease that covered tliem, arc of a fairer complex- ion tlian the generality of Indian^, who are natives of warmer climates. Their, clothing is made of the dressed B J skins J Maciauries^ Journal over ■^ : I : I :- 4 1 I. ( iW- I M II skins of the rein or moose deer, though more com- monly of the former. Of these they prepare shirts, Kvhich reach to the middle of the thigh. Their dwellings are of a very simple structure, consist- ing only of a few poles, supported by a fork, and form- ing a semicircle at the bottom, with some branches, or a piece of bark as a covering. They build two of these huts facing each other, and make the fire be- tween them. The furniture agrees with the buildings ; they have a few dishes of wood, bark, or horn ; the vessels in which they cook their victuals are in the shape of a gourd, narrow at top, and wide at bottom, and jnade of watape fabricated in such a manner as to hole', 'water, which is made to boil by putting a succession of icd hot stones into it. The Watape is manufactured firom the divided roots of the Spruce and Fir, which are wove with such a degree of compactness as to contain fluids. These vessels contain from two to six gallons. They make nets from three to forty fathoms in length, and from thirteen to thirty-six meshes in depth, of the £bres of willow bark ; their lines are made of iie sinews of the rein deer. Their arms and weapons for hunting are bows and arrows, spears, daggers and pojamajams, or clubs. The bows are about five or six feet in length, and the strings are of sinews or raw skins. The ar- rows are two feet and a half long, including the barb, which is variously formed of bone, horn, flint, iron, or copper, and arc winged with three feathers. The pol« of the spear is about six feet in length, and pointed with a barbed bone of ten inches ; with this w eapon they strike the rein deer in the water. The daggers are flat, and sharp pointed, about twelve inches long, and made of horn or bone. The pojamajam is made of the horn ot the rein deer, the branches being all cut off, except that which forms the extremity. This instrument is about two feet in length, and is employed to dispatch their enemies in battle, and such animals as they catch in snares plaaQcd for that purpose. These are about three > com- shirtSy onsist- 1 forra- mches, two of ire bc- Idings ; n ; the B shape Uy ami to hold jsion of ictured ich are contain gallons, length, of the ! sinews hunting (lajams, length. The ar- e barb, ron, or he pol* ed with )n thejf are flat, id made horn o& exci^pt racnt is iispaich :y catch e about three The North-xccst Continent of America. f three fiithoms long, and arc made of the green skin of the rein or moose deer, but in such small stripes that it re- quires from ten to thirty strands to mal^e this cord, which is not thicker than a cod-line, and yet is strong enough to resist any animal that can be entangled in it. Snares or nooses are also made of sinews, to take the lesser animals, such as hares and white partridges, which are very numerous Their axes are manufactured of apiece of brown or grey stone, from six to eight inches long, and two inches thick. The inside is flat, and the out- side round and tapering to an edge, an inch wide ; they are fastened by the middle with the flat side inwards to an handle, two feet long, with a cord of green skin. This is the tool with which they split their wood, and the only one we saw with them. They kindle fire by striking together a piece of white and yellow pyrites and a flint stone over a piece of touchwood. They are universally provided with a small bag, containing these materials, so that they are in a continual state of preparation to produce fire. From the adjoining tribes, the Red Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in barter for marten skins, and a few beaver, small pieces of iron, of which they manufacture knives, by fixing them at the end of a short stick, and with them and the beaver's teeth they finish all their work. Their canoes are small, pointed at both ends, flat bottomed and covered in the fore part. They are made of the bark of the birch tree, and fir wood, but of so slight a construction, that the man, whom one of these light vessels bears on the water, can in return carry it over land without any difliculty. It is very seldom that more than one embarks in them, nor are they capable of receiving more than two. The paddles are six feet long one half of which is occupied by a blade about eight inches wide. Mr. Maclauries and his party pursued their course, and passed the Great Bear Lake River, which is of con- .■^iderable deptn, and an hundred yards wide ; its water is clear and has the greenish hue of the sea. On the 7th. of s Maclauncii Journal oxer t hesitate to approach, and represented him>. 47 N. ' ^ Their new conductor being very much dish6artened and quite tired of his situation, used his infiuence to pre.ent 16 Maclauries* Journal oter . ! i prevent their proceeding. The party also became s«r discouraged from tlie accounts they had heard, and from various other circumstances, -that tliere was every reason to believe they would have deserted if it had been in their power. Mr. Maclauries however satisfied- them in some degree, by the assurance that he would proceed onwards but seven days more, and if he did not then reach the sea he would return. On the 11th, Mr. Maclauries sat up all night td observe the sun. At ludf past twelve, he called up. one of the men to view a spectacle, w hich he had ner ver before seen, who on seeing the sun so high, thought it was a signal to Jembark, and began to call his com*' panions, wlio could scarcely be persuaded that the sua had not descended nearer to the horizon, and that it Wa$ then but a short time p«ist midnight. In the course of the day they landed, where there "were three houses or rather huts belpngmg to the natives.. The ground plot was of aa oval form about iiftCL'n feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either end; the whole of it was dry about twelve inches below the surface of the gxound,. and one half of it was covered over with willow branches, which probably ^rve as a bed. for the whole family. A space in die middle of the other part of about four feet wide was deep- ened twelve inches more ; ami was the only spot in the bouse where a grown person could stand upright. The door or entrance is in the middle of one end of the bous from expressions ot real i;unccm that they trerc obliged to return without reaching the sea, an object, the hope of attaining which, had encouraged them to bcar.with- out murmuring the hardships of the expedition. They however declared their readiness to follow him wher- ever he should be pleased to lead them. On the 13th their latitude was found to be 69. 14 N. longitude 135 W. In the afternoon Mr. Maclaurics re- ascended the hill, but could not discover that the ico had been put in motion by the force of the wind. It was now become necessary to obtain as much provi- sion as possible, their stores being reduced to about five, hundred weight, which without any other suppty, would not have sufficed for fifteen people above twelve days. About eight the next morning, one of the men saw a great many animalb in the water, which he at first sup- posed to be peices of ice. Mr. Maclauries however being awakened about nine immediately discovci-ed that they were whales, and having ordered the canoe to be prepared they embarked in pursuit of them. They &iled however in their attempt, the foggy weather pre- venting them from continuing the pursuit. The fog having dispersed about twelve, they embarked again for the purpose of taking a view of the ice. The return of the fog however prevented them from pro- ceeding, and a sudden squall from the N. E. placed them in imminent danger, as from the violence of the swell it was only by a great exertion that two men could bale out the water from the canoe. At eight they encamped on the eaistern end of the island, which Mr. Maclauries named Whole island. It is about seven {[cagues in length from cast to west, but not more than halt a mile in breadth. They saw several red foxes, one of which was killed. Here Mr. Maclauries ordered a post to be erected close tp their tents, on which he engraved the latitude of the place, his own name, the number of persons he had with him, and the time they remained there , The ::i^ 77/e North-west Continent of America, 13 The tide here appeared to rise sixteen or eighteen Inches. They obtained a very few geese and cranes, md a very small quantity of fish. Great numbers of /ild fowl were seen with tlicir young ones, but they ^ere so shy that they could not be approached. They liscovered here the first spruce tree they had seen for some time ; it is considered indeed as extraordinary tliat my wood whatever should grow in this part of the ;orld, as the ground never thaws above five inches from the surface, 1 he course of the river divided into innu- nerable streams, and meandering through islands, some )f which being covered with wood and others >^'ith grass, [formed a delightful view. The mountains that formed the )pposite hori;^on were at the distance of forty miles. rj'hc inland view was neither so extensive nor agreeable, fbeing terminated by a near range of bleak barren hills, ibetween which are small lakes or ponds, while the Isurrounding country is covered with tufts of moss, with- lout the shade of a single tree. They took their departure at three o'clock in the [.morning, on the 18th. In the course of the day the jkunters killed two rein deers, which were the only large fcanimals they had seen since they had been in the ri- jver, and which proved a very seasonable supply, as [their Pemmican had become mouldy spme time before, ilthough that in that situation tlicy were under the iccessity of eating it. The Indian killed also eight geese. On the morning of the 19th, they discovered that jtheir conductor had escaped, he had left the moon skiR hvhich Mr. Maclauries gave him for a covering, and gone toff in his shirt through the weather was very cold. They [Could not discover any reason for his conduct, except that he had expressed his apprehensions of being taken away as a slave. In the afternoon they saw large fligiits of geese with their young ones, and the hunters killed twenty-two of them. On the 21st, they left the channel formed by the IsUnds for the uninterrupted channel of the river, whcic C they m 14 Macfauries' Journal over 'd u*, i J i « they found the currrcnt so strong that it was absolutely necessary to itow the canoe with a line. At half pnst «ight they landed on the same spot, where they had hchre encamped on the 9th, where they were soon after joined by eleven of the natives, amongst whom •^vas the brother of him who had accompanied Mr, Maclauries and his party as a guide. This man was eager in his enquiries after his absent brother, and was Aot satisfied with the information he Feceive^l from Mr. Maclauries and his party. The people of the latter having phiced their kettle of meat on the fire, Ir. Maclauiies was obliged to guard it from the na- tives who made several attempts to possess themselves 'Of its contents, which was the only instance he had hitherto discovered of their being influenced by a pil- fering disposition. Mr. Maclauries saw the sun set, for the first time since he had been here before. These natives had large huts built with drift wood on the declivity of the beach, and in the iubide the earth was dug away so as to form a level floor. At each end was a stout fork, whereon was laid a strong ridge pole which formed a support to the whole struc- ture, and a covering of spruce bark preserved it from the rain. Various &j)ars of different heights were fixed within the hut riud covered with split fish that hang on them to dry, and fires were made in different parts to accelerate the operation. There were rails also on the outside of the buildino; which were hung around with fish, but in a fresher s^dte than those within. The spawn is also carefully preserved and dried in the same manner. Mr. Maclauries obtained as many fish from them as the canoe could con'- eniently contain, and some strings of beads were the price paid for them, an article which they preferred to every other. Iron they held in little or no estimation. They belong to a numerous iribo,- with whom the Esquimaux had been continually at variance, and though the latter hud promised friendship, they had just # 'ii )Solutcly lalf pHst bey had ere soon it whom icd Mr, nan was and was ejl from c of the the fire, a the na- leniselves c he had by a pil- sun sct| e. rift wood iubide the loor. At . a strong ole struc- »d it from sera fixed that hang ;rcnt parts rails also ng around ise within, lied in the many fish y contain, ; paid for rcry other. whom the ance, and they had just The North-west Continent of America. 15 list before in the mo«t treacherous manner butchered Ionic of the people. The latter therefore declared their determination to withdraw all confidence in fu- ire from the Equimaux, and to collect themselves n a formidable body that they might be enabled iQ p;evciigc the death of their friends. Rein deer, bears, wolvcreens, martins, foxes, hares md white buti"aloe»s, are, according to the natives, ^he onltr quadrupeds in their country, and the latter /ere c!iiy to be found in the mountains to the west- ward. The banks of the river \yere well covered nth small wood, spruce, fir, birch and willow. On the 24th, they continued their course, but were jain under the necessity of using the tow line, the tream being so strong as to render all their attempts stem it with the paddles, unavaihng. At noon they observed a lodge on the side of the river, and it« inha- bitants hurrying in great confusion to the woods. Three len only waited their arrival, who however refused have any communication with them until Mr. Mac* luries appeared with a present of beads. The Indians ^d at first taken them for Esquimaux, and were still »picious of their designs. These people had been. ^ere but a short time, and their lodge was not yet )nipieted, nor had they any fish in a state of prepa« Ltion for their provision. They took care to concea} leir women and the greater part of their effects in tha roods. The weather became very sultry on the 25th, but le current had relaxed of its force, so that thf iddle was sufficient for their progress during the reater part of the day. The inland part of the coun- ry is mountainous, and the banks of the river io\/ kt covered with wood, amongst which was the poplar it of small growth, and the first they had seen on leir return. A pigeon also flew by them, and harea bpeared to be in great plenty. They passed many idifui encampmeuts, which they, did uot see in their' C 2 passage m 1^ Maclauries* Journal over f ! ■U. ■♦ ■ ■^i. 1 1^4 ^ > V 1 ' '1 1 f d ■ i ■ . b' ' * passage down the river. About seven, the sky, to the westward, became of a steel-blue color with iigiit- ning and thunder. 'I'hey landed to prepare agaitjst the coining storm, but before they could erect their tents it came on with the greatest violence. The ridge pole of ISIr. Macluurie's lodge, which was nine inches and a half in circumference, was broken in in the rhiddlc ; and they were obliged to throw them- selves flat on tlie ground to escape being wounded by the stones that were hurled about in the air like sand. The violence of the storm however subsided in a short time. Proceeding in their course, the next morning they landed about eight, at three large Indian lodges, the inhabitants of which were asleep, and expressed un- common alarm and apprehension, when awakened by them, although they had seen them before. Their ha- bitations were crowded with fish, hanging to dry ; but as Mr. Maclauries's party wanted some for hi? private "use, they sent the Indian young men to visit the nets, who returned with abundance of large white fish, to which the name has been given of Poison Inconnu, some of a round shape and green color, and a few white ones, all which were very agreeable food. Shortly aftenvards, pursuing their course, they passed a river of some extensive appearance, flowing from the east- ward ^ which was called by one of the natives who followed them, the Winter Road River. On the 27th they landed at several lodges of Indians, from whom they endeavoured to gain some information relative to the circumjacent country, but what they could glean in this way was either so confined or hyper- bolical, as to be of little use to them. They however gained from these people a plentiful supply of fish, dry as well as fresh, and as many whortle berries as they chose, for which they paid with the usual articles ol bead*, awls, knives and tin. About sun set Mr. Mac- lauries was under the necessity of shooting one of the | The North-tvest Continent ^ Ameri$a* 17 sky, to ith liglit- 'O against * ?rcct their icc. The was nine broken in row theni- )undecl by like sand, in a short rning they odges, the ressed un- rakened by Their hu- dry ; but hi? private t the nets, ite fish, to n Inconnu, and a few ^d. Shortly ssed a river n the east- latives who ; of Indians, % information |i what they f sd or hyper- ey however ^ of fish, dry ries as they I articles o( t Mr. Mac- I one of the dogs, as those animals could not be kept from the bag* gage : this incident caused a general alarm, and the M'omen took their children on their backs and ran int* the woods. Mr. Maclauries ordorcd the cause of thid act of severity to be explained, with an assurauco that no injury would be offered to themselves. The worauM however, to whom the dog belonged, was very much grieved and declared that the loss of five children dur* ing the preceding winter, had not affected her so muck us the death of this dog, but her grief was not of loiig duration, and a few beads, &c. soon assuaged her jorrow. On the upper part of the beach liquorice grew in great abundance, and was then in- blossom. Mr. Mac- lauries pulled up some of the roots which were large anU long, but the natives were ignorant of its qualities, and considered it as a weed of no use or value. They landed again on the 28th, where there were two lodges full of fish, but no inhabitants. The In- dians, with Mr. Macklauries, in rummaging this place, found several articles which they proposed to take, for the purchase of which, he ordered beads and awls to be left, an act of justice which they could not compfV^ hcnd, as the owners were not present. A few houl^ afterwards they landed at a fire, whore were some young Indians who had been hunting geese. Out of two hundred geese they picked thirty-six which were eatable, the rest were putrid and emitted a horrid stench ; they had been killed some time without having been gutted, and in this state of loathsome rottenness there was every reason to suppose they are eaten by the natives. They departed, and encamped again at eight, and at nine a violent btorm came on, ao cunipanied by a heavy rain, their tents were blown down, and their canoe was in imminent danger, '^he storm lasted two hourti, and delui^ed them with wet. The weather, the heat of which had been before insupportable, was iio cold on the next day that they C3 could 18 ■^'' Maclauriei Journal over \i Nil 4i 1 ' is ■ \ I'Hihii' iii ^ could not put on clothcA enough to keep them wnrm, C)rt the 1st of AugUHt they mot with another encamp- ment, but only saw one family who ha(i but few fish. This was the rirst night since their departure from Ahi- basca, when it was sulficiently dark to render the stars visible. The next day they were obliged to tow the canoe, and Mr. Macluuries walked along the bank of the river; in his way he observed several small springs of mineral water, running from the foot of ih« mountains, and on the beach he saw several lump* of iron ore. When they came to the river of the Bear Ijike, ^r Maclauries ordered one of the young Indians to wait for his canoe, and he took his place in their small one. This river is about two hundred and fifty yards broad at that place, the water clear and of a greenish color. They landed on the opposite shore, and con- tinued walking till five in the afternoon, when they saw several smokes along the shore. Considering these as certain indications thai they should meet with some of the natives, they quickened their pace, but in their progress experienced a very sulphureous smell, and ^■R*1ength discovered that the whole bank was on fire JWBr a very considerable distance. It proved to be a coal mine, to which the fiie had communicated from an old Indian encampment. The beach was covered ^ith coals, and the English chief gathered some of the softest he could And, as a black dye, it being the .puneral, as he said, which was used by the natives to render their quills black. As they proceeded on a long river, they saw not the least appearance of snow, though the mountains had been covered with it when they passed before. They found the water much iiallen, and discovered many shoals which were not before visible. They killed several geese of a larger size than those they bad generally seen. On the 4th of August the wea- ther became again extremely warm. Numerous tracks 1 The North-west Continent of Jmerica, 19 warm, icainp- ]w fish. Iin Ala- no stars low the le bank [1 small of ih« lump* iians to ir small y yards greenish nd con- en they ng these ith some ; in their ell, and s on fire to be a ted from covered [le of the eing the iitives to saw not iountain9 before, scoverod They Dse they the wea- ns tracks ef rein deer appeared on the sides of the river. The current was very str<)nJ^. They set tlcir »).'ts, but on raising tliein next :■ ■J.: cold clay it impresr I with the for some hich, the ding any 3ver, not followers, ith some ons, but On the T of the Jidc of it. the great nited Ibr the eas- hich tiie e, some- tc; there Indians, t for the young em with o geese, itiide ta ary cir- ; qiiaUty rom the by the id hum >horte:t, tnty of finding Tiiey get the T/nind, and having hift their mast behind them, they landed to cut another. Thcv then hoisted sail, and wore driven on at a great rate; at twelve the wind and swell were so much augmented, that their under yard broke, but luckily the mast thwart resisted, till they harl time to fasten down the yard with a pole, without lowering sail. I'hey took in a large quan- tity of water, but had the mast given way, they would in all probability have' fdlcd, and sunk. Two men vveVe continually oiiH)loyod in baling out the water, which they took in ail sides. They fortunately how- ever doubled a point that secured them from the wind and swr 11, and encamped for the night in order to wait for the Indians whom they had previously sent on a hunting expedition. At noon, on the 26th, the latitude was found to be 6l. 2.9 N. The English chief and his people being quite ex- hausted with fatigue, he expressed his desire on the morning of the 27th, to remain behind, in order to proceed to the country of tho. Beaver Indians, en- gaging at the same time ,to return to Athabasca, in the course of the winter. The next evening how- ever, Mr. Maclauries and his party having proceeded a short distance, the English chief presented himself before them drenched with wet, and in much con- fusion informed Mr, Maclauries, that his canoe had been broken to pieces, and that they had lost their fowling pieces : This party sopn came up, and th6 whole again joined TNIr. Maclauries. They arrived at Mr. LTIeureux's house on the 30th, at two in the afternoon. It was late before Mr. L'Heu- reux, and the Indians arrived, when according to a promise, which Mr. Maclauries had made the latter, he gave them a plentitul equipment of iron ware, ammunition, tabacco, &c. as a recompence for the toil and inconveniencies they had sustained. Mr. Mac* lauries proposed to the English chief to proceed to 4he country of the Beaver Indians, and bring them to 27 Madauries* Jovnal over 1 1 li'ti I'i ■:| to dispose of their peltries to Mr. L'Heureux, whon* he intended to liavc there t,'ie ensuing winter. The English chief had ci\j;agctl to be at Athabassa in the ensuing month of March, with plenty of furs. Mr. Maclauries set up all ni«5ht on the 31st, to make the necessary arrangement, for the embarka- tion in the morning, and to prepare instructions for Mr. L'lieureux. They obtained some provisions there, and parted from him at iive, in fine calm weather. The latitude shortly afterwards was found to be 62. J6 N. and on the 2d oi September, 62. 31 N. They procecled in their course until the 7th; they ran the canoe on a stump, by which it fille 1 with water, before it could be got to land, and requi- red the employment of two hours to repair it. The next day, at three in the afternoon, they came to the first carry mg place, Portage des Koyes, and en- camped at the upper end of ir, to dry their cloathes^ l&ome of which were almost spoiled. The canoe and bag-^age were on the 9th, carried over the two carrying places, called the Portage des Che- tique, and the Portage de la Montagne, after having passed which, they incamped at the Dog River, at balf past four in t!ie afternoon, in a state of great fa- tigue. At half past five in the morning they continued their cosrse, and met with frequent showers of raia and hail in the forenoon; and in the afternooa two showers of snow. At six in the evening, they landed at a lodge of Knisteneaux, consisting of three men and five women, and children, who had sepa- rated from the rest of their party, in the enemy'* country, out of absolute hunger. They were entirely ignorant of the fate of their friends, but imagined they had returned to the Peace River, or had perished for want of food, Mr. Maclauries supplied them with a few articles, of which they were in want, and hira" «elf and his party continued their course the next aiorning. During the night it had froacn very hard. On .'^i* ^J ! '.; The Ndt f.h-west Continent of Ainerka, n whom The L in the st, to ibarka- ms for > there^ eather. be 62. They ey ran 1 with requi- . 'I'he Line to ml en-^ outhcs^ 2(1 over s Che- having ^er, at eat fa- itinucd Df raia ernooa h they f three sepa- nemy'* ntirely agined Brished n with 1 him" ; next hard. On i On the IQth, about tlirpe in the afternoon, tliey arrived at ClieiKvvyan Fort, trom whence they had originally took their departure, and thus concluded their first vo}ai',e, which had occupied no less than one hundred and two days in the performance. E)id of the first Voyage. , VOYAGE II. J-VJL.i. M'aclauries attain took his departure after mak- ing every necessary preparation, from Fort Chepewyan •on tlic iOth of October 1792> for the purpose of pro- ceeding up the Peace River. He resolved to go i j far as the most distant settlement, which would occupy *he remaining part of the season, it being the route by which he proposed to attempt his next discovery across the mountJiins from the source of that tiver. In consequence of this design, he left the establish- ment of Fort Chepewyan in charge of IMr. Roderic Maclauries, accompanied by two canoes, laden with the necessary articles for traoe. They steered west for one of the branches that communicates with the Peace River, called the Pine River, and at seven in the morn- ing of the rith entered the Peace River. On the 13th, at noon, they arrived at Peace PoinI, from which, according to the report of the interpreter, the river derived its name, it being the spot where the Knisteneaux and Beaver Indians settled their dispute, and which was agreed t-s be the boundary of the two tribes. They arrived at the falls on the 17th ; the river at this place is about four hundred yards broad, and the fall about twenty feet high. The weather was very cold, and snow fell during the night, several inches deep. They passed the Loon River, and came along side the Grand Isle ; and as it froze very hard, they used mucL expedition, i ./ w 24 Maclaurics Journal over iiilii ■ I . ! : I B- expedition, and landed at tlie old establishment about* three in the morning of the Ipth. The country through which they had passed is low from the entrance of the river to the falls, and with the exception of a few open parts covered with grass, it is cloathed with wood : where the banks are very low tLc soil is good, being composed of the sediment of the river, and putrificd leaves and vegetables : wliere they are more elevated, they display a face of yellowish clay, mixed with small stones. They landed at the establishment at Athabasca, at six o'clock in the morning of the 20th, amidst the rejoi- cing and firing of the people, who were animated by the prospect of again indulging themselves in the luxury of rum, of which they had been deprived since the be- ginning of May, it being the practice throughout the north west, neither to sell or give any rum to the natives during the summer. JMr. Maclauries called them together, to the number of forty-two, hunters or nien able to bear arms, to confer with them, and str lengthened his advice, by a nine gallon cask of redu- ced rum, and a quantity of tobacco. The number of people belonging to this establishment amounted to about three hundred, of whom sixty were hunters. Although appearing from thcii: language to be of the same stock as the Chepewyans, they have adopted the manners and customs of their former enemies the Knis- tcneaux. They pursued ^heir course till they arrived at the foot of the river, when taking the western branch, they landed on the first of November, at the place which Avas designed to be their winter residence. The wea- ther !iad ii'deed become so cold and disagreeable, that Mr. Maclaurics was more than once apprehensive of being stopped by the ice; and it required the utmost exertions of the men to prevent it: nor were their labors at an end, for there was not a single hut to receive them. They found two men, who had been sent t about is low nt\\ the iSf it is ow the of the re they ellowish asca, at le rcjoi- atod by ; luxury the be- lout the to the 5 called nters or cm, and jf rcdu- imber of ntcd to hunters. 3 of the )tcd the ' lie Knis- l at the ch, they e which he wea- jle, that ?nsive of utmost src their ! hut to ad been sent The N'orih'Wcsl Continent of America, U Wttt forward the preceding spring, to square timber, for the erection of a house, and with them the principal chief of the place, and about seventy men, who had been anxiously waiting the arrival of Mr. Maclaurics mnd his party, and received them with every mark of satisfaction and regard which they could express. In addition to the wood which flourished below the fall, these banks produce the cypress tree, arrow wood, ^nd thorn. Opposite to their present situation were cautiful meadows, with various animals grazing on em, and groves of poplars irregularly scattered over hem. Mr. MaclauTJes assembled the Inised to treat them with kindness, if their behavior iieserved it, but at the same time, with equal severity, H they failed in those returns, wJiieh he had a right io expect from them. He then gave them some rum imd tobacco, and they departed after making the fair- est promises. The men who had been employed lor that purpose, having collected an ample quantity f»f materials, all hands were set to work on the 7th, to construct the fort, build the house, and form store Ihouses. The river was completely frozen over by the |22nd, and a clear passage was obtained over it for the hunters, who now procured plenty of fresh meat« phe frost was so severe on the 27th, that the axes *)f the workmen became almost as brittle as glass. f These natives had not the least acquuiutance with %hc medical art, or the healing virtues of any herb ijr plant, and Mr. Maclauries was forced to be phy- i^ician and surgeon. One of them was suddenly at- Itacked whilst at work in the woods, with a pain in liis thumb, which disabled him from holding the axe. On examining him, there was found a narrow red stripe, about half an inch wide, from his thumb to is shoulder; the pain was violent, accompanied by :hilness and shivering. The next day the stripe c«- reased, and was accompanied by several blotches s« Madauries* Journal over IH'li< m K- t on his body, and pains in his stomach. Mr. Mao laurics at a loss what to do, at length took some blood from him, the man obtained rest, and in a short time he gained his former health and activity. Mu ISlaclauries was very much surprized, whilst walking in tlie woods, at such a season 6i the yeai^ to be saluted with the singing of birds, while they seemed by their vivacity to be actuatedL by the in- vigorating power of a more genial season. Some of them were very beautiful. On the a3rd of December, Mr. Maclauries re- moved into the house that had been erected for him, and set the men to begin the buildings, intended for their own habitations. Materials suflicient to erect five houses, of seventeen feet by twelve, were already collected. On the Qi)th, the wind being N. E. and the weather calm and cloudy, a rumbling noise was heard in the air, hke distant thunder, when the sky cleared away, in the south west, fiom whence there blew a perfect hurricane, which lasted till eight. Soon after it commenced, the atmosphere became so warm, that it dissolved all the snow upon the ground, where the iec was covered with water, ajid had the same appearance as when it is breaking up in the spring. From eight to nine, the weather became calm, but immediately after a wind arose from the N. E. with equal violence, with clouds, rain and hail, which continued throughout the night, and till the evening ,of the next day, when it turned to snow. The people who were with Mr. Maclauries awoke him snn occasions, or when preparing for battle, and confirmed to Mr. Maclauries, this singular custom iii firing guns, in order to express their grief for thd 4ieath of relations and friends. The w./men alone in- oar Uivor, which is of a large appearance, falls in from the cast. On the l()th they saw two grisly and hideous bears. The canue on the 18th struck on the stump of u tree, and unfortunately where the banks were so steep that there was no place to unload, except a small spot, on which tliey contrived to dispose the. lading in the bow, which lightened the canoe so as to raise the broken part of it above the surface of the water, by whicli contrivance they reached a convenient situation. In the course of the day they saw a ground hofl:, and two cormomnts. They encountered, on the ipth, very strong currents, and the canoe was placed in imminent danger. They were under the necessity of towing the canoe the greater part of the way, and the men who held the line were obliged to walk along a very steep and dangerous bank, .where one false step would have been productive of the most destructive consequences. In another part of the way they were compelled to carry the canoe, for a short distance, over land. Providentially, however, they escaped all the dangers which presented themselves and encamped safely for the night. On the next day they combated even greater danger. With infinite ditticulty they pa-jsed over the foiut of a rock, which fortunately w,)s not a hard stone, so that they were enabled to cut stc ps in it for the distance of twenty feet; from this JNI ". Maclauries, at the hazard of his life, leaped on a small rock below, wliere he re- ceived those who followed him upon his shoulders. In this manner four of them passed and dragged up the canoe, in which attempt they broke her. Very luckily a dry tree had fallen from the rock above them, with- out which they could not have made a fire, as no \Vheii the T'hc North'Uest Continent $f Ammca» J3 the cunoe was repaired, they continued towing it along the rucks to the luxt point, where they embarked, a» they could not at present make any further use of tho line, but got alon«; tiie rocks of a round ibhind of btonu, till they came to a small sandy bay. Mr. Macklay and the Indians who had been on shore since the canoe had been broken, were prevented from coining to tliem by the ruj^gcd and inaccessable state of the ground. Mr. Maciauries, and the party with him, therefore, again resumed their course, with the assist- ance of poles, with which they pushed onwards till they cam."* beneath a precipice, where they could not find any bottom, so that tlu'y were again obliged to have recourse to the lino, the management of which was rendered not only difliciilt but dangerous, as the men employed in towing were under the necessity of passing on the outside of trees that grew on the edge of the precipice. They however surmounted this difficulty as they had done many others, and the whole party once more united. At noon, on the same day, INIr. Maciauries landed to take an altitude. While he was thus engaged, the men went on shore to fasten the canoe, but as the cur- rent was not very stro»i^, they had been negligent in performing this office ; it proved, however, sufticijntly powerful to sheer her off, and if it had not happened that one of the men, from absolute fatigue, had remained and held the end of the line, they would have been de- prived not only of every means of prosecuung their voyage, but even of present subsistence. The latitude was found to be 5G N. In the evening the canoe nar- rowly escaped being dashed to pieces in a rapid cur- rent which they had reached, their line being broken by a wave, by which they were thrown into the utmost alarm, and were glad to stop for the night, particularly as the river above them, as far 23 they could see, was a continued white sheet of foaming water. 1; I -t i h (2 i-MminKmr ib at which pe- riod it began to dechne. This elevated situation, how- ever, aftbrded them no prospect, as mountains rising still higher, and covered with «iiow, were seen far above them in every direction. With the greatest ex- ertions, and the most penetrating wit and labour, they ;irrived at the river at four in the afternoon on the 24th. 4 bout two hundred yards below the spot at which they had arrived, the stream rushed with an astonishing but silent velocity between perpendicular rocks, which are not more than thirty-tive yards asuntler, when the water is high it was over thoi^e rocks in a channel three times that width, where it is bounded by far more ele- vated precipices. They remained here till the next day, when they again embarked, during which time the water rose one foot r'.nd a half perpendicular height. On the 26tli^ thougli the suix had shone upon them throughout the day, the air was so cold tliat the men, although actively employed, could not resist it without the aid of their Wank^t coats. They attributed ihis circumstajjce in some measure to tae gc neral height of the country, and to the surrounding mountains, which were coveied with ice and snow Ihey were alarmed at break of day on the 30th, when ou shore, by the continual barking of their dog, and at length discovered that the cause of it • proceeded from a wolf, who was parading a ridge a few ^ards behind them, having been most probably allured by tJiie scent of their small portion of fresh jneut. (-%;. 1 m ■;i I: \ F i !i!i 36 MadauM Journal ovrr . On the 31st, the men were so cold, that they landed at nine in the morning, to kindle a fire, which was considered as a very uncommon circumstance, at that season of the year; a small quantity of rum however served as an adequate substitute; shortly afterwards, they arrived at the fori<, one branch run- ning about W.N.W. and the other S.S.E. Mr. Mac- lauries thought the former most likely to bring them nearest to the part, where he wished to fall on the Pacific Ocean, but from what he had heard in answer to his enquiries, amongst the Indians, in the course of the expedition, he was induced to take the latter, into which they pursued their course, although con- trary to the wishes of his men and the Indian, who was with them, particularly when they percei'ed ''\^ difficulty of stemming the current. Mr. Mac however determined to proceed, but the rush of water was so great, that they were most of the afternoon advancing two or three miles. Latitude on the 1st of June 55. 42. l6N. - In no part of the North-west did they see so many bea/ers, as during this day: In some places thes€f animals had cut down several acres of large poplars. , The time which these wonderful creatures allot for their labours, whether in erecting their various habi- . tations, or providing food, is the \khole of the inter- val between the sitting and the rising of the sun. On the 3d of June the Latitude, 55. 22. 3 N. ' They embarked, after resting for the night, on the 4th of June, at four in the morning, in a very heavy fog. The water had been continually rising, tind in many places overflowed its banks. I'he cur- rent also was so strong that their progress was very tedious, and required the most laborious exertions. They could not find any place fit for an encampment until nine at night, when they landed oji a bank of gravel,, of which little more appeared above water than the spot they occupied. In the morning, how*- evcr, The North-west Continent of America, 3T ■i ri r n i- evcr thny found their canoe and bagi^agc in the water, which hud continued risinu; dUrine the nijiht. Having traversed to the north shore, Mr. Mac- lauries disembarked, accompanied by Mr. Macklay and the hunters, in order to ascend an adjacent mountain, with the hope of obtaining a view of the interior part of the country. When they had reached the summit, they found that it extended onwards, in an even, level country, so that encumbered as they were Avith thick wood, no distant view could be obtained : Mr. Maclauries therefore climbed a very lofty tree, from the top of which he discovered, on the right,^ a ridge of mountains, covered with snow, bearing about north east, from thence another rii'ge of high land, whereon no snow was visible, stretched toward the South, between which, and the snowy hills, on the east side, there appeared to be an opening, which they determined to be the course of the river. 'J'hey returned to tlie river, and discharged their pieces, twice which was the signal agreed upon, with those who remained in the canoe, but received no answer. They waited with the greatest anxiety,- and made excursions in various directicms along the river, but could not gain sight of it. At half past six in the evening. Mr. Macklay and one of the canoes of the In- dians, set off to proceed down the river, as far as thev could, before the nidit came on, and to conti- »ue their journey in the morning to the place, where they had encamped the preceding evening. Mr. Mac- lauries proposed to make his excursion upwards, and if they both failed of success in meeting the' canoe, it was agreed they should return to the place where they then separated. In this situation, Mr. Maclauries, and the Indian who was with him, had plenty df water to drink. but with solid food they were wholly unprovided ; they had not seen even a partridge throughout the day, and tiie tracks of rein-deer that they had discovered, E were .. V!i. I as Madavrics* Journal over I 11 ■ i lii 1 ■" were of an old date. They were however preparing to raakc a Led of the btranchcs of trees, with no other canopy than the heavens, when they heard a shot, and soon afterwards another, which was the signal agreed upon if Mr. Macklay and the Indian should see the canoe. But Mr. Mudaurics was so fatigued /rom the heat and exercise of the day, as well as incommoded from drinking iin unusual quantity of cold water, that he did not wish to remove till the following morning, the Indian, however, made such bitter complaints of the cold and hunger, which he suffered, that Mr. Mac^ lauries yielded to his solicitations, and they reached the s,)ioe when it was nearly dark, barefooted arid drenc/ vith rain. When he arrived on board the canoe, ti . Indians, who had remained in it, told a dismal talc of the hardships they had undergone, in the course of the day, which Mr. Maclauries thought .^|t prudent to aftect to believe, and to comfort each of thcni with a consolatory dram. On the 7th of June, the latitude was found to be 55. 2. 51 N. longitude 122. 35. 50 W. Mr. Mac- klay and the hunters walked the greatest part of the day, and in the course of their excursion, killed a porcupine. The next day it rained, and thundered during the night. For the last two days, they had been anxiously looking out for the carrying place, but could not discover it. All that remained for them to do, was to push forward, till the river became no longer navigable; it had now indeed overflowed its hanks, so that it was eight at night, before they could discover a place to encamp. Having found plenty of wild parsnips, they gathered the tops, and ' boiled them with pemmican, for supper. After pursuing their courso, the greater part of the day, on the pth, they discovered a smell of fire, and in a short time heard people in the w©ods, as if in a, state of confusion. A'r. Maclauries ordered the canoo 40 be steered to the side of the river, but before they — were i'i^*.. a The North-west Continent of Jmericd, ' ^0 were half over, two men appeared on a rising ground, brandishing their spears, displaying their bows^ and arrows, and accompanying their hostile gestures with lyDud vociferations. The interpreter assured them, no injury was intended them; they did not seem however disposed to confide in this declaration, and actually threatened to discharge their arrows at the party in the canoe. Some time passed in hearing and answer- ing their questions ; and at length they consented to the landing of the party, though not without betraying \;;ry evident symptoms of fear and distrust. 'Ihcy however hlid aside their weapons, and when Mr. Mac- Jauries stepped forward and took each of them by the hand, one of them, but with a very trenmlous action, drew his knife from his sleeve and prcsenti'.d it to him, as a mark of his submisson. They examined Mr. Maclaurics, and tho^e who were with him, and every thing about them, with minute, and suspicious attention. Thev had heard of white men, but this was the first time they had ever seen a human being of a complexion different from their own. They had not been here but a few hours, nor had ihey yet erect- ed their sheds ; and, except these two men, they had all fled, leaving their little property behind them. The canoe was now unloaded, the nec*^':sary bag- gage carried up the hill, and the tents pitched. About five in the afternoon, two hours after thoy had landed, the whole party of Indians had assembled. It consisted only of three men, three women, and seven or eight boys and girls. With their scratched legs, bleed- ing feet, and disheveled hair, as in the hurry of their flight they had left their shoes and leggings behind them, they exhibited a most wretched appearance ; they were consoledj however, with beads and other trifles, which" seemed td^please them. Peramican also was given them to eat, which was not unwelcome, and was at least su- perior to their own provisions, which consisted chiefl} of 3ried fish. E 2 Mr. 40 MachiiM Jovrnal over ^1 Mr. Maclaurics endeavoured to gain from them all the information they possessed, relative to the country through which his intended route lay, but he failed in •btaining what he sought for and expected, for they persisted in their ignorance of any such river as he men- tioned, that discharged itself into the sea. Still, how- <;ver, he could not avoid thinking, that they had not disclosed their knowledge of the country, freely and .fully, and he had some doubts of the fidelity of his in- terpreter, who he knew was very much tired of the voyage; he therefore determined to make another at- tempt the next day, to obtain that inform? ion which he considered they possessed. In the mean time, on Jbis expressing a desire to partake of their fish, they brought him a few dried trout, well cured, which had been taken in the river they lately left. One of the men alsp brought him five beaver skins as a present. The next day he had another conference with thcm^. vhen one of them said he knew of a large river that run towards the r^'d-day sun, a branch of which flowed near the source . hat which they were now navigating, and that there were only three small lakes, and as many carrying places leading into a small river, which dis- charged itself into the great river, but that the latter did not empty itself into the sea. The opinion that*th9 river did not discharge itself into the sea, Mr. Maclau* Bcs imputed to his ignorance of the country. His hopes were now renewed, aud he resolved to continue his voyage with all expedition. He induced oim2 of the Indians by presents to accompany him, as a guide, to the ^rst inhabitants which they might expect to meet with on the small lakes. These Indians are low in stature, not exceeding five ' feet, six or seven inches, and are of a meagre appear- ance. Their faces are round, with high cheek bones, and their eyes small, and of a dark brown colour. Their hair is of a dingy black, hanging loose and in dis- order over their slioulders^ their beards are eradicated with iS The North-west Continent of America, «« mth the exception of a few straggling hairs, and their coraplcction of a swarthy yellow. Their dress consists trf robes made of the skins of the heaver, the ground hog, and the rein dec?r, dressed in ihc hair, and of the moose skin without it. Their garments they tie over their shoulders, and fasten them round the middle with a belt of green skin, which is as stiff as horn*. Their * ieggings are long, and if they were topped with a waist* band might be called trowscrs, which, as well as their «hoes, are made of dressed moose, elk, or rein, deer skins, n «(i.^- The women, in addition to their dress, have an apron ^ which is fastened round the waist, and hangs down to the knees. They are in general more lusty than the- men, and taller in proportion, but intinitely less cleanly, A black artificial stripe crosses the face, bc.eath the eye^from ear to ear, which at first sight lo(i>ks like scabs,. from the accumulation of dirt upon it. Their arms consist ©f bows made of cedar, with a short iron spike at one end, which, swrvcs occasionally as spears. Their arrows are well made, barbed and pointed with iron, flint, stone, or bone. They hava twa kinds of spears, both double-edged, and of. well- l^olished iron ; and also spears made of* bone. Their, knives arc pieces of iron shaped and handled by them* selves. Their axes are something like. our. adze, and i are used in the same manner. i . S'j^'They have snares made of green skinr, which they cut' to the size of st;urgeon-rt\vine, and twist a certaia num- ber of them together; and though when completed the}! do not exceed the thickness^of a cod- line, thoir strength- is sufficient to hold a; moo-Mj de(>r ; they aro from one and a half to two fathoms in length. Their nets anti- fishing lines are made of , willow bark and nettles, thoscr made of the lattenare finer and smoother than if mador with hempen thread.. Their hooks are^mall bones iixcd in pieces of wood «plit for the purpose, and tied round with fine, watape. Their kettles arc also made of watiipoy E3 so if, 'il i 'V;l w M .T. MadaurU^ jAUtnaft^r -u? •. • i nrfi. H 1 1 ' :M . ii so closely woven that they neter leak ; some are niiiRe of spruce bark, which they hang over the fire at such a distance as to receive the heat without being withim reach of tlie blaze, a very tedious operation. They have spruce bark in great plenty, with which they make their canoes ; the bark is taken off the tree the whole length of the intended canoo, which it commonly about eighteen feet, and is sewed with watape at both etids, two laths are then laid and fixed along the edge of the bark, which forms the gun-whale; in these are fixed th« Jbars, and against them bear the ribs or timbers that ar* cut to the length, to which the bark can be stretched ; ftnd to give additional strength, slips of wood are laid 5)etween them, to make the whole water tight; gum is abundantly employed. These vessels carry from two to live people. Previous to their departure, the natives had caught a coupk of trout, of about six pounds weight, which they ibrought Mr. Alaclauries, and he paid them with beads ; they likewise gave him a net made with nettles, the skin of a moose deer dressed, and a white horn in the shap« i)f a spoon. On the 10th, at ten in the morning, they embarked; Their guide expressed much less concern about the undertaking in which he had engaged, than his compa* xiions, who appeared to be affected with great solicitude for his safety. As they proceeded they found the river, the next day, reduced to the breadth of fifteen yards, with a .moderate current. Shortly afterwards they quitted the main branch of the river, which, according to the in-* formation of the guide, terminated at a short distance^ where it is supplied by the snow that covers the moun* tains. In the same direction is a valley, which appears to be of very great depth, and is full of snow,, that lises nearly to the height of the land, and forms a re-* servoir of itself sufhcient to furnish a river, whene\'et there is a moderate degree of heat. Thi.bir^Qch which ^ o^" "^ISi-. they; ■■":.'3l!'?i''-' The North-iaut Conlinent of America, 4^ li^io^ left WAS not at thh time more than ton yards broad, iwhile that which they entered was still less. Here the ctirrent was very trifling, and the channel so meander- ing, that they sometimes found it dithcult to work the canoe forward. The straight course from this to the entrance of a small lake or pond, is about (oast) (me mile. This entrance by the river into the lake, was al* moat choked up by a quantity of drift wood, which ap- peated to Mr. Maclaurics an extraordinary circum* stance, but he afterwards found that it falls down from the mountain. The water, however, was so high, that the country was entirely overflowed, :md they passed viith the canoe among the branches of trees. The prin«- cipal wood along the banks is spruce, intermixed with a few white birch growing on detached spots, the inter- vening spaces being covered with willow and alder. They advanced into the lake and took up their station for the night. They were disappointed in their expec- tation of seeing any natives, but were encouraged by their guide to hope they should see some to-morrow* They saw beavers, swans, geese, and ducks, in great numbers, but did not discharge their pieces from the fear of alarming the natives. They iilso saw blue* jays, yellow birds, and one beautiful humming bird ; of the first and last they had not seen any since they had been in the north west. The lake is about two miles in length, east by south, and from three to five hundred yards wide. This Mr. Maciauries considered «s the highest and southernmost of the Unjigate, or Peace River, latitude 54. 24 N. longitude 121 W. which after a winding course, through a vast extent of coun- try, receiving many large rivers in its progress, and^ passing through the Slave Lake, eiripties itself into the frozen Ocean in latitude 70 N. and longitude 135 W. >-^:They were obliged the next day to clear away some floating drift wood, to get to the carry uig place, over which is a beaten path of only one hundred and seventy ^ve jfmccs iu length. The lake empties itself by a small J * river* m |!f #i MiulauM Journal over I 1 1 »r < ? ; river, which if the channel was not interrupted by htrgB trees that had fallen across it, would have admitted tlieir canoe with all its lading ; the impediment, indeed, might have been removed by two axe-men, in a few hours. On the edge of the water they observed u large quantity of thick yellow scum or froth, of an acrid taste and smell. They embarbarked on the next lake, which is nearly of the same extent as that they hid just left, from whence they passed into a small river which was so full of fallen wood as to require great exertion to force a passage. Their course continued to be obstsucted b/ banks of gravel, as well as fallen trees, through which they were obliged to force and cut their way at a great cxponce of time and trouble. At half past five in tlio afternoon they entered a small round lake of about one third of a nulc in diameter. Regaining the river they were stopped, at half past six, by two large trees that lay across it, and it was with the greatest dithculty that the canoe was prevented from driving against thenu. Here they encamped for the night. Having carried the canoe and lading, the next morn* ing, the 13th, beyond the rapid current, they pushed otf again into the river. They had proceeded but a short way when the canoe struck, and notwithstanding all their exertions, the violence of the current was so great as to drive her sideways down the river, and break her by the first bar. Mr. Maclauiies immediately jumped into the water, and the men followed his ex*- ample, but before they could set her stniight, or stop her, they came to deeper water, and were obliged to re-embark witli the utmost precipitation. They had scarcely regained thoir situations when tiiey drove against a rock, which so shattered the stern of the .canoe that it held only by the gunwale, aiKl the steers- man could nc natives had deserted their camp, which appeared to be erected for no more than two families. Two Indians were instantly dispatch- ed in search of them, who overtook them, but their language wa^ mutually unintelligible, and all attempts to produce a friendly communication were fruitless, th« natives actually discharging five arrows at the two In- dians, which however the latter avoided by means of the trees. On hearin;; this account from the Indians, Mr. Maclauries, accon^panied by Mr. Macklay, and one of the Indians, set oft* to overtake the natives, but they had so far gone that Mr. Maclauries thought it advisable to give up the pursuit. The next day, they shot a red deer, and got it on board. Tlie coimtry, as they proceeded, began to change its appearance ; the banks were but of a moder* ate heiglit, froih whence the ground continued gradually rising to a considerable distance, covered with poplars and cypresses, but without any kind of underwood. There are also several low points, which the river that is here about three hundred yards in breadth, sometimes overflows, and which arc shaded with the Hard, the soft birch, the spices and the willow. For some di^ftance before they came to this part of the river, the banks ■were rugged, irregular and lofty, and were varied with the poplar, different kinds of spices, fir, small birch, trees, cedars, alders, and several species of the willow. They landed this day at a deserted house, which was the only Indian habitation of the kind they had seen, on this side of Mechilimakina; it was about thirty feet long, and twenty wide, with three doors, three feet high, by one foot and a half in breadth ; there were also three fire places, at ec^ual distance from each other, and beds on v.,;. 4S 'Maclaurk^ Journal over V\ li' h' u.f ■II on each siJc of them, Lchind the bec^s was a narrow space in the form of a manger and somewhat elcvatcil, that was appropriated to the purpose of keeping fish. Openings appeared between the logs of the waii, ff^r the purpose, as it was conjectured, of discharging ar- rows at a besieging enemy. Within, they also found a large machine of a cylindrical form, which was fifteen leet long, and four feet and a half in diameter, one end wa.> square, like the head of a cask, and a conical ma- chine was fixed inwards, to tlie other end, of similar di- mensions, at the extremity of which was an opening of about seven inches diameter. This machine, thev had no doubt, was contrived to set in the river to catch large fish, and very well adapted for that purpose ; as wlien they were once in, it would be impossible for them to get out, unless it should have strength sufficient to break through it. It was made of long pieces of split wood, rounded to the size of a small finger, and placed, at the distance of an inch asunder, on six hoops; to this wa-j added, a kind of boot, of the same materials, into which, it may be supposed, the fish are driven, when ;hcy are to be taken out. * ' ' Their canoe was now become so crazy, that it was a mrtter ot absolute necessity to construct another. jNIi*. Maclauries therefore dispatched four men, for tl'C pur- pose of procuring bark, who returned with a sufficient quantity to mak^. the bottom of a canoe, of five fathoms in length, and ^our feet and a half in height. They pursued their course however a;? yet in the old canoe. Latitude on the 21st, 52. 47. 51 N. A number of Indians appeared on one of the banks, who after making use of many menaces, discharged a volley of an*ows, some of which fell short of the canoe, and otluns passed ovvT it, so that fortunately they did no injury. Mr. Maclauries having due precaution, left the canoe, and walked by himself along the beach. Some presents were otiered on the part of Air. Maclauries, and every thing said that could tend to sooth the fears, and produce th« confidence The North-west Continent of America. 49 confidence of the natives, who having held a consultation /or a shoit time, at length the most I'amiliar communica- tion took place between both parties. Mr. Maclaunes encamped, and endeavoured to procure information from the natives, rehitive to the river he was proceeding in, but could not obtain any that was very satisfactory. These Indians consisted of seven fimilies, containing eighteen men, they were clad in Icat'ier, and had sonje beaver and rabbit skin blankets. ''hey had not been long arrived in this part of the country, when they pro- posed to pass the summer, to catch fish, for their win- ter provision ; for this purpose they were preparing ma- chines, similar, to that which had been observed in the Indian-house, lately examined. The first which they take in them are large, which only visit this part of the river at certain seasons. These people dirt'er very little, if at all either in their appearance, language or man- ners, from the Rocky Mountain Indians. Some bark was obtained here, but of a very indifterent kind. Tuey pursued their course on the 21:nd, with two of the natives whom Mr. Maclauries persuaded to accom- pany them. The country on the right presented a very beautiful appearance ; it rose at first rather abruptly to the height of seventy-five feet, when the precipice was succeeded by an inclined plain to the foot of anc her steep, which was followed by another extent of gently rising ground ; these objects, which were shaded with groves of hr, presenting themselves alternately to a con- siderable distance. Shortly afterwards they landed and observed several men, who at first displayed a spirit of hostility, but were soon persuaded Into friendly inteuourse. Tht^y held their bows and arrows in their hands, and appeared in their garments which were fastened round the neck, but left the right arm free for action. A cord fasti ned a blan':et, or leather covering, under the right arm -pit, 80 X\i\- \i ( - i.'ii •^ arrow that was nearly spent. Proceeding a short dis- tance further, they landed again on seeing some natives oands weight of small shot, which indeed might he .con- ' *cited into bullets, but with great waste. 4, ^ , . From -**6. The North'tcest Continent of America* From what be had heard of the river, he was con- vinced it could not empty itself into the ocean, to the north of wliat is called the River of the West, so that with its windings the distance mustbe very great. Such being the discouraging circumstances of his situation, added to the discontents of his people, he could not but be alarmed at the idea cf attempting to get ta the dis- charge of such a rapid river, especially when he reflected upon the hardy progress ol his return up it. lie deter- mined, however, to proceed with resolution and set fu- ture events at defiance ; at the same time he suffered himself to cherish the hope that he might be able to pe- netrate with more safety, and in a shorter period, to the ocean, by the inland western communication. To carry this project into execution, he must have returned a considerable distance up the river, which would necessarily be attended with a very serious in- convenience, as being a retrograde motion, it could not fail to cool the ardor, slacken the zeal, and weaken tlie confidence of those who had no greater inducement" to the ui. iertaking than to follow the conductor of it- These considerations distressed the mind of Mr. Mac- lauries not a little. . To those pec V, who had given him all the inform- ation they coulu, Mr. Maclauries presented sniuc beads, which they preferred to any other artick- -n his posses- sion. In the afternoon luey had a thunder storm witli heavy rain, and in the evening when it had subsided, the Indians amused them with singing a* d dancing, in which they were joined by the yo ng women. After ;i rjstlcss night, Mr. Maclauries ca.led the Indians toge- ther with a view of obtaining, if possible, some addi- tional information. At the commcnc incnt, however, of this conversation, he was mucL prised by the fol- lowing question from one of the Indians : " What," de- manded he, " can be the reason that you are so parti- cular and anxious in your inquiries of us respecting a knowledge of this country ; do not you white men know . ^.,* . ■f'^ eveiy f wr Maciauries* Journal over ■:H!" !i t IH \ .*!* ^very thing in the world ?" This interrogator v was so Ycry unexpected that it occasioned some hesitation be- fore Mr. Maciauries could answer it. At length, how- ever, he replied that they certainly were acquainted with the principal circumstances of every part of the world, that he knew where the sea was, and where ho himself then was, but that he did not exactly under- stand what obstacles might interrupt him in getting to it, with which the Indian, who had asked the question, and his relations must be well acquainted, as they had eo frequently surmounted them. Thus he fortunately preserved the impression on their minds of the superi- ority of white people over them, but gained little additi- onal information. It became now, however, absolutely necessary for ]\Ir. Alaclauries to come to a final determination which route to take, and no long interval of reflection was employed before he preferred to go over-land ; the com- parative shortness and security of such a journey being alone sufficient to determine him. He accordingly pro- posed to two of the Indians to accompany him, and one ©f them readily assented to his proposition. He now called ihose of his people about him wha had not been present at his consultation with the na- tives, and alter passing a warm eulogium on their for- titude, patience, and perseverance ; he stated the dif- ficulties that threatened their continuing to navigate the river, the length of time it would require, and the scanty provision they had for such a voyage ; he then proceeded for the loregoing reasons to propose a shorter route by trying the over-land road to the sea ; at the same time, as he knew from experience the difficulty of retaining guides,, and as many circumstances might occur to prevent their progress in that direction, he de- clared his resolution not to attempt it, unless they would engage if they could not, after all, proceed over- land, to return with him an continue their voyage to the discharge of the waters, whatever the distance might The North-west Continent of America*. 53 might be. At all events, he declared in the most solemn manner, that he would not abandon his design of reaching the sea^ if he made the attempt alone, and that he did not despair of returning in safety to his friends. This proposition met with the most zealous return, and they unanimously assured him that they were as willing now as they had ever been to abide by his reso- lutions, whatever they might be, and to follow him wherever he should go. He therefore requested them to prepare for an immediate departure, and at the same time gave notice to the man, wlio had engaged to be their guide, to be in readiness to accompany them. When their determination to return up the river was made known, some of the natives took a very abrupt departure, but to those who remained Mr. Maclauries gave a few useful articles, explaining to them at the same time, the advantages that would result to thf^m, if their relation conducte « €3 To add to their distress they had not an ounce of gum for the reparation of the canoe, and not one of tlie men had sufficient courage to venture into the woods to . collect it. In this perplexing situation Mr. Maclauries . ordered the canoe to be loaded, and dropped to an old house, one side of whicii with its roof had been carried . away by the water, but the then remaining angles was eufficient to shelter them from the woods, lie then ordered two sirong piquets to be driven into the ground, to which the canoe was fastened, so that if they were hard pressed they had only to step on board and )>U3h oif. They w^re under the necessity of making a smoke to keep oil" the swarms of flies which would otherwise have . . . tormented The North-west Continent of America » m tormented them, but they did not venture to excite a blaze as it would have been a mark for the arrows of the enemy. Mr. Maclaurics, Mr. Macklay, and three men kept altcrnato watch^ and allowei the Indians to do as they liked. * At five the next morning, the 25th, they arose, and ITS the situation they left on tfie preceding day was pre- ferable to that they theu occupied, Mr. Maclauries de- termined to return to it. On their arrival Mr. Macklay informed him, that the men had expressed their dissatis* faction to him in a very unreserved manner, and had in very strong terms declared their resolution to follow Mr. Maclauries no further in his proposed cnterprize ; Mr. Maclauries, however, would not appear to havo received any secret communication, and employed all his thoughts in contriving means to bring; about a ic- conciliation with the natives. Latitude 52. 47. 51 N,. While Mr. Maclauries was employed in taking the latitude, the men loaded the canoe without his orders, and as this was the first time they had ventured ^c act in such a decided manner, he naturally concluded that they had preconcerted a plan for their return ; he thought it prudent, however, to take no notice of this transaction, ^nd to wait the issue of future circum-* stances. At this moment his Indians perceived a pert son in the edge of the woods above them, and they were immediately dispatched to discover who it was. After a short absence they returned with a. young woman whom they had seen before, but her language was not clearly comprehended, so that they could not learn "rom her, with any degree of certainty, the cause of the unfortunate alarm which had taken place among the natives. She told them her errand was to fetch some things she had left behind her ; they treated her with great kindness, gave her something to eat, and added a present of such articles as they thought might [ lease her. On her expressing a wish to leave them, tuey readily consented to her departure, and indulged . the i \.^ rrr U Tdadaurks* Journal over M i the hope that her reception would induce the natlros to return in pe»rc, and aftbrd an opportunity of convinc- ing them that there was no hostile design nitcnded against thein> 'I'hongh a very apparent anxiety prevailed among the people for their departure, Mr. Machuiries appeared to be wholly inattentive to it, and at eight in the even" ing he ordered four men to step into the canoe, which had been loaded for several hours, and drop down to the guard house ; his command was immediately obeyed, Hie rest proceeded there by land. About midnight a rustling noise was heard in th»; woods which created a general alarm, and Mr. Maclaurics was awakened to be informed of the circumstance, but heard nothing. At one lie took his turn of the watch, and the dog contrnuad unceasingly to run backwards and forwards along the skirts of the wood, in a state of restless vigi- lance. At two in the morning the centinel informed him that he saw something like a human figure, creep- ing along on all-fours, about fifty paces above them. After some time had passed in their search, Mr. Mae* kurics at length discovered that the information was true, and it appeared to him that a bear had occasioned the alarm, but when day-light appeared it proved to bo- an old grey-haired blind man, who had been compelled to leave his hiding place by extreme hunger, being too infirm to join in the flight of the natives to whom ho belonged. When Mb. Maelatiries put his hand upon this object of decayed nature, the alarm of the old maa was so great that he was almost thrown into convul- sions : Mr. Maclauries immediately led him to the fire, which had been just lighted, and gave him something to eat, which he much wanted, as he had not tasted food for two days. When his hunger was satisfied, and he became warm and composed, Mr. Maclauries re- quested information of him as to the cause of that alarm that had taken place respecting them, among his relations and friends, whose regard, appeared to have beei^ :..ijf - conciliated The Korth-tvest Continent of Amcrka, 6^ dog 4'onciHfttcd but a few days preceding. He replied, that very soou after tliey liad left his friends, some natives Arrived ivom above, who said tliey were enemies, and their unexpected return, in direct contradiction to their •own declaration, had confirmed that opinion. The na- tives were now, he said, so scattered, that a consider- able time would elapse before they could meet again. Mr. Maclauries gave him the real history of their re- turn, as well as. of the desertion of their guide, and at the same time stated the impossibility of their proceed- ing unless they procured a native to conduct them. He rcpUcd, that if he had not lost his sight he would, M^ith the greatest readiness, have accomp;inied them : He also confirmed the accounts which they had re- ceived of the country, and the route to the westward. Mr. ]Maclauries did not neglect to employ every argu- ment in his |)ower that the old man might be persuaded •of their friendly dispoiiition to tlie inhabitants, where- cver they might meet them. The old man informed them also that he expected a considerable number of his tribe to come on the upper part of the river, to fish for present support, and to cui'e them for winter store, among whom he had a son and two brothers. In consequence of these communications, Mr. Mac- lauries deemed it altogether unnecessary to lose any further time at this ^place, and he informed the old man Ihat he must accompany him for the purpose of intro- ducing them to his friends and relations, and that if he met with his son or brothers, Mr. Maclauries de- pended uponJbim to persuade them, or some of their party, to attend the former and his people, as guides in their meditated expedition. IJe expressed his wishes to be excused from this service ; and in other circum- stances they would not have insisted on it, but situated as they were they could not yield to his request. At seven in the morning they left this place, which JVIr. Maclauries named Deserter's River or Creek. 7'hcir blind guide was however so averse to continuing among €0 Madaurm* Journal oter u amont; them, that Mr. Muclaurics was iimlcr the very disn^recabic necessity of ordering the men to carry him into the canoe, and this was tltc first act during their voyage that had the semblance of violent dealing. The canoe was at kuigth become so leaky as to bo absolutely unfit for service, and it was the unremitting employment of one person to keep her clear of water, they therefore inquired of the old man where they could conveniently obtain the articles necessary to build a new one, and thcv understood from him that at some distance up the river they should find plenty of bark and cedar. v » • Throughout the whole of this day the men had been in a state of extreme ill humour, and as they dul not choose openly to vent it upon Mr. Maclaurics, they disputed and quarrelled among themselves. About sun- set the canoe struck upon the stump of a tree, which broke a large hole in her bottom, a circumstance that gave them an opportunity to let loose their disconienf, without reserve. Mr. ^laclauries left them as soon as they had landed, and ascended an elevated bank iiiuch harassed in his mind. At this place there was a sub- terraneous house, where he determined to pass the night. The water had risen since they passed down, and it was with the utmost exertion that they came up several points in the course of the day. They embarked at half past four, (the 27th,) with very favourable weather, and at eight they landed where there was an appearance of their being able to procure bark, they however obtained but a small quantity. At twelve they went on shore again and extracted as much as was necessary for their purpose. It now remained for them to fix on a proper place for building another canoe, as it was impossible to proceed with their old one, which was become an absolute wreck. At five in the afternoon they came to a spot well adapted to the business in which they were about to engage. It was on a small island not much encumbered with wood, thougli; <^ The lf«rth-a)tsl Contiatnt of Aiiurut, 61 :ame with [here kurc At lucK lined Ith'sr old \e in the I was )od. .1. *■ .though Uicrc was plenty of the spruce kind on the oppo- site land, which was only divided IVojn them by a small channel. They now landed, but betore the canoe was unloaded and the tent pitched, a violoitt thunder storm came on, accompanied with rain, wiiich did not subside till the night had closed in upon them. At a very early hour the next mornini; every man was employed in making preparations lor building ano- ther canoe, and diflcrent parties went in search of •wood, watape, and gum. At two in the afternoon they .all returned successful, except the collectors of gum, and of that article it was much toured they would not obtain here a sufficient supply for their immediate wants. After a necessary portion of time allotted for refreshment each began his particular work. Latitude 53. 2.3-2 N. The weather continued fine till the 28th. At five o'clock, they renewed their labour, and the canoe was got in a state of considerable forwardness. The conductor of the work, thougii a good man, was remarkable for the tardiness of his operations, what- ever they might be, and was more disposed to eat, than be active; Mr. Maclauries therefore took the opportunity of unfolding his sentiments to him, and thereby discovering to all around, the real state of his mind, and the resolution he had formed for his future conduct. After reproaching him for his general inactivity, but particularly on the present occasion, when their time was so precious, Mr. Maclauries mentioned the apparent want of economy, both of ; himself and his companions, in the article of provisions. V He informed him, that he was not altogether a stran- ger to their 'late conversation, from whence he drew ;the conclusion, that they wished to put an end to the voyage, if that were so, he expressed his wish, that :they would be explicit, and toll him at once their . determination to follow him no longer. He concluded, bpwever by assuring the man, that whatever plan they G bad ^w I I €2 Maclaurki' Journal over K! had meditated to pursue, it was his fixed and unal- terable determination, to proceed, in spite of every ditliculty that might oppose, or danger that should threaten him. The man was very much mortified at this remonstrance, being addressed particularly to him, and replied, that he did not deserve his displeasure, more than the rest of them. Mr. Mac- iauries' object being answered, the conversation drop- ped, and the work went on. About two in the afternoon, a canoe appeared in sight, with two natives on board, who agreeably sur- prized thejri by coming up to the Island, when they recognized their guide, and a native, whom they had already seen. The former apologized for his conduct, and assured Mr. Maclauries, that since he had left him, his whole time had been employed in search- ing after his family, who had been siezed with the general panic, that had been occasioned by the false •^port of the people, who had fled. He said it was generally apprehended by the natives, that Mr. Mac- lauries and his party, had been unfriendly to their relations above, who were now expected on the rivci ill great numbers. Latitude 53. 3. 7 N. The blind old man gave a very favorable account of them to his friends, and they all tbree were very merry together, during the whole of the afternoon. That their guide, however, might not escape from them, during the night, Mr. Maclauries determined jo watch him. The strangers conducted themselves with great good humour throughout the next da}', but at about eleven at night, Mr. Maclauries observed the old man creeping, on his hands and knees, towards the water side. They followed him to the canoe, ^nd found he would have gone away with it, if he had not been interrupted in his design. He denied how- ever ihe intention, of which he was accused, and declared his sole object was to assuage his thirst. At length, howeyer, he acknowledged tbc trtfth, and Mr. Maclauries The North-west Continent of America, 63 ]VIaclauries thought it necessary to set a watch upon him (luring the remainder of the night. Tiie guide, however, and ais companion found means, whilst Mr.. IMacklay, who was upon the watch, was busily cm- ployed on the oanoe, to escape ilnperceived. At fi\e in the afternoon (1st of July) their vessel was completed, and ready for service. She proved a stronger and better boat than the old one, though had it not been for the gum, obtained from the latter, it would have been a matter of great difficulty to have procured a sufficiency of that article, to have prevent-! ed her from leaking. The remainder of the day was employed by the people in cleaning and refreshing themsdves, as they had enjoyed no relaxation from their labour, since they landed on this spot. The old man having manifested, for various ar.d probably, very fallacious reasons, a very great aversion to accompany them any further, it did not appear that there was any necessity to force his inclination. Mr, Maclauries therefore ga\<^ him a few pounds of pemmican, for his' immediate support, and took leave of him, and the- place, which he named Canoe Island. During their stay there, they had been most cruelly tormented by the fiies, particularly the sand fly, which they considered as the most tormenting insect, of its size, in nature. Mr. Maclauries was compelled ^o put the people upon short allowance, and coniine them to two meals a xtay, one of which was composed o^ the dried roes 6f hsh, pounded and boiled in water, thickeneii with a small quantity of flour, and fattened with a bit of grian. These articles being brought to the consistency of a hasty pudding, produce a sub- stantial, and not unpleasant dish. The natives are very careful of the roes of fish, which they dry, and preserve in baskets, made of bark. The men were however in high spirits, when they perceived the supe- rior excellence of the new vessel, and retlectjd that it was the work of th«»ir own hands. ■ G 2 ' ' At" K'-' i^^s-J w Maclaunes* Journal ever r-i ill i J. At eleven o'clodc (the 2cl) they arrived at the Rapids, and experienced considerable difficulty, and danger in clearing them. Two of the men took the line, which was seventy fathom in length, with a small roll of bark, and after climbing the rock, they descended on the dther side of that, which opposed the progress of the danoe, and then having fastened the end of the line tb the roll of bark, the latter was carried to the canoe by the current. The men thus drew up the canoe, tliough to get to the 'water's edge above, they were obliged to let themselves down with the line, twisted iVund a tree, from the summit of the rock. They at length cleared the Rapid, with the additional trouble of Carrying the canoe, and unloading at two cascades. They were not more than two hours getting up thir difficult part of the river, including the time employed ilk repairing a hole, which had been broken ni th«^ CaiK)e, by the negligence of the steersman. There they expected to meet with the natives, but there was not the least appearance of them. They saw several fish leap out of the water, which appeared to be of the salmon kind. At ten in the morning, on th© 3d, tbey came to a small river, which answered to the description of that, whose course the natives had said they followed, in their journies to the sea coaet. Mr. Maclaurics was much perplexed, but at length deter- mined to proceed a few leagues further up the river; they were in expectation of finding their guide, or pro* curing another, as after all they might return hither. They proceeded agai'i at four in the afternoon, and had not been upon the water more than three quarters of an hour, when they saw two canoes coming with the stream. The people in the canoes having perceived t^em^ immediately landed, and they went on shore at the same place. These people proved to be their guide »nd six of his relations. He was covered with a painted beaver robe, so that they scarcely knew him in his fine habiliment. The strangers examined them with the moit -T" :-"^^:> The North-west Continent of America, 66 mo»t minute attention, and two of them, as Mr. Mac- Jauries was now informed, belonged to the people, whom they first saw, and who fled with so much alarm from them. They told Mr. Maclauries that they were so much terrified on that occasion, as not to approach their huts for two days ; and that when they ventured thither, they found the greater part of their property destroyed by the fire, running on the ground.. These people arc called Naseud Dence, but though said to be of a ditfcrent- tribe, Mr. Maclauries found no diffe- rence in their language, from that of the Nejaitas or Carriers. Their lodges were at some distance, on a small lake, and had not the guide gone there for thcun, Mr. Maclauries would not have seen any human being on the river. They informed him, that the road by their habitations, was the shortest, and they proposed that he should take it. it an early hour on the morning of the 4th, and at *;o suggestion of ^heir guide, they proceeded to the landing place, leading to the strangers' lodges, and from thence onwards, till half past eight, when they landed at the entrance of a small rivulet, w here their friendig were waiting for them. ' 'i= 'i Here it was necessary that they should leave their canoe, and whatever they could not carry on their backs. In the first place, therefore, they prepared a stage, on which the cauoe was placed, bottom up- wards, and shaded by a covering of small leaves and branches, to keep her from the ruin. They then built an oblong hollow square, ten feet by five, of groeiv logs, wherein they placed every article, it was neces- . sary for them to leave there, and covered the whoib . witfi large pieces of timber. While they were employed in this necessary business, their guide and his companions were so impatient to be gone, that they could not persuade the former to wait till they were prepared for their departure, and tliey had some difficulty in persuading another of the G '3 nalivos €i r) Maclauric!^ Journal ovet w< ' } 1] ■ i^ y^> l^i I natives to remain, who had underto ik to conduct thctn) when the guide had promised to wait their arrival. At noon they were in a state of preparation to enter the woods, and carried on their backs four bags and tk half of pcmmican, weighing from eighty-five to ninety pounds each ; a case with Mr. Maclauries's instruments; a parcel of goods for presents, weighing ninety pounds | and another parcel containing ammunition, of the same weight. Each of the Canadians had a burden ©f about forty-five pounds weight of pemmican to carry, besidf § their gun, &c. with which they were very much dis*-- Satisfied, and if they had dared, would have instantly decamped. Mr. Maclauries's own load, and that of Mr^ Macklay, consisted of twenty-two pounds of pemmican, some rice, a little sugar, &c. amounting in the whole to about seventy pound each, besides their arms and ammunition. Mr. Maclauries had also the tube of hi» • telescope, swun^ across his shoulder, which was a very troublesome addition to his burden. It was determined, that they should content themselves with two meals &-day, which was regulated without difficulty, as their provisions did not require the ceremony of cooking. In this state of equipment they began their journey about twelve at noon, the commencement of which wat a steep ascent of about a mile, it lay along a well-beatetx path, but the comnry through which it led was rugged, and full of wood. When they were in a state of ex-» treme heat from the toil of their jounicy, the rain came on and continued till the evening, and whe^ it ceased the 'underwood continued its dropping upon them. About half-past six they arrived at an Indian camp with three fires, where they found their guide, and on his recommendation they determined to remain there for the night. The computed distance of this day's jour- ney was about twelve geographical miles. • * ' At sun-set an elderly man and three other natives Joined them from the westward ; the former bore a . > lancQ ■<1*""R The Narth'toeat Continent of America, 9r r lance that very much resembled a Serjeant's halberd, Mfhich he had lately received, he said, by way of bartci from the natives of the sea-coast, who procured it from the white men. According to his report it did not re- quire more than six days journey, for people who were heavily laden, to reach the country of those with whom they bartered their skins for iron, &c. and from thence it was not quite two days march to the sea. These na- tives proposed to send two young men on before Mr, Maclaurics and his party, to notify to the different tribes that they were approaching, in order that those tribes might not be surprized at their appearance, aivd might be disposed to a friendly reception. This was a measure which Mr. Maclauries could not but approve, and he endeavoured, by some small presents, to pre* possess their couriers in his favour. These people live poorly at this season, and Mr. Mac* lauries could scarce procure any provision from them, except a few small dried fish of the carp kind. As soon as Mr. Maclauries and his party laid down to rest, the natives began to sing in a manner very different from what the former bad been accustomed to hear among ravages. It was not accompanied either by dancing, drum or rattle, but consisted of soft plaintive tones and a modulation that was rather agreeable, it had some- what the air of church music v At five the next morning, when they were ready to depart, the guide refused to accompany them any fur- ther, alledging that the young men would answer their purpose as well as himself. Mr. Maclauries knew it would be in vain to remonstrate with him, and there- fore submitted. He thought proper, however, to in- foam him that one of the people had lost his dag or poignard, requesting his assistance in the recovery of it. The man asked Mr. Maclauries what he would give him to conjure it back again, and a knife was promised to be the price of his necromantic ex,ertion. Accordingly ...all the dags and knives in the place were gathered togc- fii , \ ther, '^■'1 m 6B ^Maclauries* Journal over ill .1:- thcr, and the natives formed a circle round them, the conjuror remaining in the middle. When this part of the ceremony was arranged he began to sing, the rest joining in the chorus, and after some time he produced the poignard, which was stuck in the ground, and re- turned it to Mr. Maclauries. The guide, however, before they departed, volunta- rily offered to accompany them, and actually conducted them as far as a small lake, where they found an en- campment of these families. Mr. Maclauries endea- voured to persuade an elderly man of this encampment to accompany him to the next tribe, but could not pre- vail upon him to comply with his wishes. He was therefore obliged to content himself with the guides al- ready engaged, for whom he was obliged to wait some time till they had provided stores for their journey. In the course of the day, as they proceeded, they found the ground covered with hail, the hailstones in- creased injsize as they advanced, some of them being as big as musket balls. They also passed three winter hutB, with a ridge hole, covered with the branches of the Canadian balsam tree. One of the men had a vio- lent pain in his knee, and Mr. Maclauries asked the guides to take a share of his burthen, as they had no- thing very heavy to carry but their beaver robes and bows and arrows, but they could not be made to un- derstand a word of the request. At half past eight on the 6th, they fell upon the road which they first intended to have taken from the Great River, and which must be shorter than that which they had travelled. The West Road River was also in sight, winding through a valky. They had not Diet with any water since their encampment on the preceding night, and they were afflicted with, violent thirst, the river was at such a distance from them, and the descent to it so long and steep that they were com- pelled to be satisfied with casting their longing looks to- wards it. Tlicb The North-Wit Contimnt ^ Amerxca,^ ^0 f t s '• Their guides now left them to inform the next tribe of their approach ; but Mr. Maclauries, mistrusting that they would desert and return home, followed them him- self as fast as he could, accompanied by one of his In- dians ; they did not overtake them however till they came to a family of natives, consisting of one man, two women, and six children, with \Vhom they found them. The man pointed out on© of his wives as a native of the sea-coast, which he said was it no great distance. ITiis woman was more inclinea *o corpu- lency than any they had yet seen, was of a low stature, with an oblong face, grey eyes, and a flattish nose. She was decorated with ornaments of various kinds^ such as lareie blue beads, either pendant from her ears, encircling her neck, or braided in her hair, and also wore bracelets of brass, copper and horn ; her gar- ments consisted of a kind of tunic, which was covered with a robe of matted bark, fringed round the bottom with sea-otter skins. None of the women whom they kad seen since they crossed the mountain wore thid kind of dress. She confirmed the account of her hus- band, that they were at no great distance from the sea. Age seemed to be an object of great veneration with these people, as they carried an old woman by turns on their backs, who was quite blind and infirm from the advanced period of her life. The rest of Mr. Maclauries's party having joined him, they proceeded, accompanied by a boy from the family they had just quitted, instead of the elder of the guides, who would not go any farther. About two in the after- noon they came up with two men and their families, i*ho, when they first saw them, were sitting down, but no sooner did they perceive them than they rose and seized their arm.s. The guides, however, having spoken to them, they laid by their arms and received them as friends. These people had a very sickly appearance; one of the women had a tattooed line along her chin, of the same length as her mouth. - Their I' * 70 Maeiaurks* Journal over I ! ii l'\ Their former guides wore now replaced by these two men, with whom Mr. Maclauries and hi« parly pro- ceeded ; they camd to an uneven, hilly and swampy county, through which their way was impeded by a considerable number of fallen trees. At five in the af- ternoon they were overtaken by a heavy shower of rain and hail, and being at the same time very much fatigued, ihey encamped for the night near a small creek. At five the next morning, (the 7th) they quitted their station, and proceeded across two n. .mtains co- vered with spruce, poplar, white; birch, and other trees. They then descended into a level country, where they found a good road through woods of cypress, 'i'hey arrived at two small lakes, at the distance of fourteen miles, through which the river passes, and their road kept on a parallel hne with it on a range of elevated ground. Shortly afterwards they came up with a party, consisting of a man, two women, and the same number of children. The eldest of the women was engaged in clearing a circular spot, of about five feet in diameter, of the weeds that infested it ; this spot contained the grave of her husband and a son, and whenever she passed this way she alwayjL Stopped to pay this tribute of aflfection. . "^ : f Coming up with another party, consisting- of seven men, and several women and children, they took ano- ther guide, and continuing their route at six o'clock in the evening, crossed the river which was knee deep and about one hundred yards over. At the recomnu.*nda- tion of their guide they proceeded onwards to a family of his friends, where they arrived at half past seven, and where he had gone forward and procured them a welcome and quiet reception. It rained throughout the night, and it was seven the next morning before the weather would allow them to proceed. The guide brought them five small boiled fish, in a platter made of bark, some of which were of the carp kind, and the others of a species unknowife; - ■ 0- I '\ Th', North'Xvest Continent 9f America, n V |a In 'r ^ I \ to them. Having dried their clothes they proceeded again about eight, their guide cheerfully continuing to accompany them. In this part of their jonrney they were surprized with the appearance of several regular basons, some of them furnished with water and the others empty ; their slope, from the edge to the bottom, formed an angle of about forty-five degrees, and their perpendicular depth was about twelve feet. Those that contained water disco- vt»red gravel near their edges, while the empty ones were covered with grass and herbs, among which vere discovered mustard and mint. . They now proccdcd over a long and very uneven coun- try, and at two in the afternoon arrived at the largest river they had seen since they left their canoe, and which forced its way between and over several huge stones that opposed its progress. This river abounds with fish, and must fall into the great river further down than they had extended their voyage. A heavy and continued rain fell through great part of the night ; and as they were, in :ome measure ex- posed to it where they rested the night, time was re- quired to dry their cloaths, so that it was half past seven in the morning before they were ready to set out. Tliey found the country quite destitute of game. Late in tiic afternoon they discovered the tops of the moun- tains covered with snow over very high intermediate land. They killed a whitehead and a grey eagle, and three grey partridges ; they saw also two otters in the river, and several beaver lodges along it. At an early hour in the morning, (the 10th) they prepared to cross the river on a small raft which Uiey found there. This xwei was about thirty yards, and it required five trips to get them all over. About nine they reached two temporary huts that contained thirteen men, with whom they found their guide, who had preceded them in order to secure a good reception. These men cariled themselves Stona-cusii-Dinais, which . denomination^ ' i 76 Maclcr.irics' Journal orer the bank. The weir is a work of considerable inge- nuity, and stops the stream which is about fifty yards in breadth, and ten feet deep, nearly two thirds. It is constructed bv fixins; small trees in the bed of the river, in a slanting position, with the thick part downwards, over these is placed a bed of gravel on which is placed a range of lesser trees, and so on alternately till the work is brought to its proper height, it was then nearly four feet above the level of the water ; beneath it the machines are placed into which the salmon fall when they attempt to leap over. On either side there is a large frame of timber-work, six feet above the level of the upper water, in which passages are left for salmon, leading directly into the machines, which are taken up at pleasure. < " . - ' The water of this river is of the colour of asses-milk, ■which IMr. Maclauries attributed, in part, to the lime- stone, that in many places forms the bed of the river, but principally to the rivulets which fall from moun- tains of the same materials. These people indulge an extreme superstition respect- ing this fish, as it is apparently their only animal food ; ' for flesh they never taste, and one of their dogs having picked and swallowed a bone which h;id been left by Mr. ISIaclruries's party, was beaten by his master till Ihe disgorged it. One of Mr. Maclauries's people hav- ing thrown a bone of the deer into the river, a native, who had observed the circumstance, immediately dived and brought it up, and having consigned it to the fire instantly proceeded to wash his polluted hands. As they were still at some distance from the sea, IMr. Maclauries made application for a canoe or two, with people to conduct them thither. After receiving va- rious excuses, he at length comprehended that the only objection was to the embarking venison in a canoe on their river, as tlie fish would instantly smell it and abandon them, so that they must all starve. Mr. Maclauries soon eased their apprehensions on that ^_ , - . pointy The North-west Continent of America* '•' an. .V ^oint, and desired to know what he was to do with the venison that remained, when he was told to give it to one of the strangers who was pointed out to him, sa being of a tribe that eat flesh. lie now requested to be furnished with some fresh sahnon in irs raw state; but, insti-ad of his wish being complied with, the^ brought him a couple of them roasted, observ- ing at the same time, that the current was very strong, and would bring him to the next village, where the wants of himself and people would be abundantly supplied. In short, Mr. Maclauries and his people were to mak-^ haste to depart. This was rather unex- pected after i.o much kin(4ness and hospitality, but iheir igiiorance of the language prevented them from being able to discover the cause. , ;• At eight o'clock in the morning, fifteen men armed, the friends and relations of these people, arrived by land, in conse([uence of notice sent them in the night, immediately after the appearance of our guides. Tiiey were more corpulent and of a better appearance than the inhabitants of the interior. , Their dress consists of .:, single robe tied over the shoulders, falling doM'n behind, to the heels, a little below the knees, wilh a deep fringe round tlie bottom. 'It is generally made of the bavk of the cedar tree, which they prepare as fine as hemp. In addition to tins rube, tlu' women wear a close fiinge hanging down b< fore thei\i about two feet in length, and half as wide. The colour of the eye is grey with a tinge of red. They have all high cheek bones, but the women arc Diore remarkable for that feature than tlic men. At one in ihe afternoon they enib:irkcd, with their .«mp^l hagi»age, in two canoes, accompanied h^ sc\en of the natives. 'I'he stream was rapid, and ran upwards of six miles an hour. Tboy canxe to Jt weir, such as has been already described, wliere the natives landed ttiem, and shot over it without taking a drop of water. They re-einbaikcd and proc«Hsh, one of the people v.hf* came with them from the last village approached, with a kind of ladle in one hand, containing oil, ^nd in the other something that resem- bled the inner rind of the cocoa-nut, but of a lighter colour, this he dipped in the oil, and, having e.it it, indicated by his gestures how palatable he thought it. lie then presented Mr. Maclauries with a small piece of it, which he chose to taste in its dry state, though iho. oil was free from any unplcasiint smell. A square cake of this was next produced, when a man took it to the water near the house, and having thoroughly soakc 1% ' BHHB 80 s:i Maclauries* Journal over ' In this situation they remained for upwards of three hours, and not one of the curious latives left them during all that time, except a party of ten or twelve of them, vfhom the chief ordered to go and catch fish, which they did in great abundance, with dipping nets, at the foot of the VVeir. At length they were relieved from the gazing crowd, and got a lodge erected, and covered in for their recep- tion during the night. Mr. Maclauries now presented the young chief with a blanket, and several other ar- ticles, that appeared to be very gratifying to him. Similar articles were also distributed to others. The communication, however, was awkward and inconve- nient, being carried on entirely by signs, as there was toot a person present who was qualified for the office of an interpreter • •? 'They were very desirous to get some fresh salmon, that they might dress them in their own way, but could not by any means obtain that gratification, though there were thousands of tiiat fish strung on cords, which were fastened to stakes in the river. The na- tives were even averse to their approacliing the sp jt where they clean and prepare tlieni for their own eating, Not only this but these people had indeed taken their kettle from them, lest they should employ it in getting watir from the river; and they assigned, as the reason for this piecaution, that the salmon dislike the smell of iron. At the same time however, they supplied the travellers with wooden boxes, which were capable of holding any tlkid. The village consisted of four elevated houses, and seven built on the ground, besides a considerable num- ber of other buildings or sheds, which are used only as kitchens, and pia(es for curing their fish. Ihe fo (ner ftre constructed by fixing a certain number of posts ih the earth, on ^ome ot ufeieh are laid, and to others» are fastened, the support