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Maps, plates, charts, stc, may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Thoss too large to be entirely included In one exposure are fiined beginning in the upper left hend corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as rsquirad. The following diagrams Illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent itre fllmia t das taux da rMuction diffirents. Lorsque le document eat trap grand pour Atre reprodult en un seul cllchi, II est fllmi i psrtir de i'angle supirieur gauche, de gauche i drolte, et de haut en Inw, en prencnt le nombre d'imagea nicessaira. Las diagrammas sulvants illustrent le mithode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 TMEE MONTHS in CANADA and the UNITED STATES. James ; Horatio. Booty. " When thou haply seest Some rare, noie-wori'^iy object in thy travels, Make me partaker of thy happiness. "--Shakspeare. London: Printed ly the Author at his private residence. 1862. 7^^ \ \x "-«J My dear Friends, The followins^ pages contain various incidents and particulars of my trip in America and Canada, chiefly collected from a journal which I kept during my tour. My manuscript which I arranged, was seen only by a few of you, as having made a resolution to put it into print I withdrew it. I have no wish to magnify in the least degree what I have been able to accom- plish in the following pages ; however, I must say that the production of the same has cost me much time and labour. I am only delighted that I have been so far successful in making a completion of this book, for it has seemed to me many times almost beyond my powers. After what I have stated, I trust any errors and imperfections that may be discovered in the printing of the following pages, will be excused on the plea of the work having been entirely carried out by such Jin amnteur as. Yours truly, James. Horatio. Booty. Lmidon, 1802. 1 ■ 'V^f,^.- '* /-"V: } '»* to THREE MONTHS in CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. I had often pictured to myself that a trip across the Atlantic would be full of novelty and pleasure'. However, I never fully believed that I should be able to niake such a tour, by reason of the length of time that it would require. But reader, I must tell you, tliat after havinnr made my « notions " of such a trip ler triin for a start, ssm SO after sundrj arrangements and leavetakiiig of most of my friends, I started on the afternoon of the 28th of April ( 1859 ) for Liverpool, where I staid with my cousin Mr S. H. Lloyd until the 30th. By 8 o'c that morning I arrived at the quay where there was a steam tender lying alongside to receive the passengers for transport to the Gunard Steamship lying in mid-channel, with her steam up ready for starting. As soon as every hody had gained the latter ship they were all bustling about to see that their luggage had been carried on board "all right"; at last the stream of baggage ceased and as everything has an end, so the Mail Agent arriving with his postal cargo, gave an indication to the friends to take leave of those they hjid come to see off: — " Some wave the hand, and some begin to cry, " " Some take a weed, and nodding, say good bye. " And now the steam is on, and off goes the splendid steamsLip "Persia", Captain Judkins. She had a full cargo and over 170 cabin passengers. . I was most fortunate in having obtained a very comfortable I>erth in a cabin which was one of the largest in the ship, on this voyage there were only two berths, the one occupied by myself, and the other by another young man; when the ship however has the full: complement of passengers two more berths are put up: having this extra space added much to my com- fort during the voyage. Tnless there chances to be some peculiarity in arrangemeut or circumstances all voyages I shoiild say resemble each other so much that it is needless to tire the reader with dulness of repitition. Ship life, particularly on a steamer is not at all fra- grant, in short you meet with such a comhinatiou of grease, steam, onions, and dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating invisibly in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of existence which shortly after sailing begins to come upon you; the sight of every white- capped wave, the people, and in fact everything around you causes a mysterious sensation which steals slowly and inexplicably upon you. It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of the epidemic; most of the people step on board in the highest possible feather, they parade the deck and seem on the best possible terms with themselves and mankind generally; meanwhile the treacherous ship undulates and heaves in the most graceful man- ner, and then most of them yield to the mysterious spell. During the'dinner Stewards will occasionally upset a soup plate which sometimes falls inside the waistcoast of a "Swell", who travelling for the first time, thinks it requisite to"get himself up" as if going to the Opera. People under the influence of some internal and irresistible agency, will occasionally spring from the table with an energy that is but too painfully exhausted, upsettmg a few side dishes as their feet catch the corner of the cloth. Ladies, whose rosy cheeks and bright eyes dimmed with parting tear, had, as they waved the last adieu, told of huoyant health and spirits, gather mysterious- ly to the sides of the vessel, ready for any emer- gency, or perhaps lie helpless in their herths, resign- ing themselves to the uhiquitous stewardess, who seems to think their groans and agonies a regular part of the play. Then of course there are young ladies, "charming creatures," who in a very short space of lime are going to die, and are sure they will die, and don't care if they do ; these also in time are consigned with all speed to the dismal lower regions. Again, there are always some whose interiors have heen case-hardened by Old Neptune, these patrol the deck and they seem to be having a good time generally, and they always meet you with "What a charming run we are having! Is it not delightful? and so on. Fortunately I could class myself with the latter portion of the passen- gers for I did not suffer at all, so I was thus enahled to enjoy the passage to a greater extent than I had {inticipatcd. But at night ! the beauties of a night on shiphoard ! down in your berth, with the sea fizzing and gurg- ling within a few feet of your ear; and then at 12o*c the steward comes along to put out your light, and there you are ! as my companion in my cabin said to me, Jonah in the Whale was not more dismal. There in profound ignorance and hlindnesg^'ou lie, and find yourself jlled about in all manner of ways ; probably you lay awake some time and every kind of odd noise in the ship attracts your notice, creaking straining, blowing off steam, and if the weather is at all foggy you have the benefit of the fog whistle every few minutes; however after listening with all your might for some time sleep overcomes you, and the morning light at once convinces you that nothing very particular has been the matter, and that all these frightful noises are only the necessary atten- dants of what is tenncd a good run. The eleven days that now divide England and America are not long enough for anything, but in a voyage cf three or four months people of course must give up to their situation, and make arrangements to live a regular life. If a ship heaves in sight, and during our passag3 we passed several, or a Whale spouts, it causes a great sensation. Walking the deck is the means of getting rid of many an hour, and aftlsr you have got your sea legs you find the exercise agreeable enough; a double convenience of getting warmth and fresh air is to seat yourself under the shelter of one of the red smoke pipes of the steamer, and in that situation Time can be killed by reading &c. Everything is done on board these ships with an admira-ble order and system, which gives you confi- dence in seeing such watchfulness and care displayed. On Sunday morning service is performed by the Captain in the Saloon, a procession of the greater part of the sailors dressed in their best, file in, and take their places, together with such passengers as feel disposed. We were two Sundays at sea, on the G second one a Cleigyman, one of the passengers, officiated. We were enlivened during the voyage with some music, performed exceedingly well by six of the stewards ; they played for a short time previous to breakfast, and after dinner for an hour or two. It is said "music hath charms " and certainly I never saw it more exemplified than on these occasions, for the delightful strains floating over the expanse of waters seemed to give "better spirits " to most of the passengers. At the end of the voyage a subscription was made for these musical stewards, and over .£15 collected. After we had been out nine Jays or so most of the passengers began to improve, and the sick ones reap^ ^icd by degrees to take a little fresh air, and Ifegan to talk of the pleasure they would have when they were once more on "terra firma" . The first part of the voyage the weather was very agreeable, but the last four . or five days we encountered very heavy head winds; it was stated however to be a " good run ", and a very pleasant passage. Well, I must now acquaint the reader that early on the morning of the llth.ofMay a Pilot came on board, -and that by 9 o'c the "Persia" came to an anchorage in New York Bay; the weather unfortimately was wet and dull, which prevented most things that were presented to view bearing that gay appearance that they otherwise would have done. Taking leave of our worthy Captain, we were all soon rn lande 1 on the soil of the Giant Republic at Jersey City, vliere the whjin^es, &c, of the Cunard line are established, they not having been able to procure sufficient space on the New York side. The first thing to be encountered was, of course, the Custom house; but I must tell the reader, that a Custom house Officer in America is not that species of detective police and pompous inquisitive sort of personage that you too often meet with in the Old World. He did not consider it requisite to tumble everything out on the floor, and put you to every possible inconvenience, by way of exhibiting his importance; perfectly satisfied on that point himself, he impressed you with it by simple courtesy, thus gaining respect instead of exciting ill-will and contempt. In a short time the examination was finished, and a few minutes more we were all on board of the ferryboat to cross to New York. These ferryboats were totally different to any I had ever seen in England there is a good clear hundred feet gangway, twelve or fourteen feet broad, on each side of the engine, and a covered cabin outside each gangway, extending half the length of the vessel ; a 1 latforni accommodating itself to the rise and fall of the water, enables you to drive on board with perfect ease, while the little kind of basin into which you run on eitlier side, being formed of strong piles fastened only at the bottom, yields to the vessel as she strikes, and entirely does away with any con- cussion. I do not think I found anything more perfect Ms' 8 l! in construction and arrangement tlian the ferries and their boats; the charges are very moderate, varying according to distances, and ranging from one half- penny upwards. It is difficult to say what struck me most forcibly on landing at New York; barring the universality of the Saxon tongue I should have been puzzled to decide in what part of the world I was. The forest of masts, and bustle on the quays, reminded me of the great sea-port of Liverpool, but most everything else that met the eye was novel and strange. Seating myself in an Omnibus I soon reached the Metropolitan Fotel which is situated in Broadway, and the roader may perhaps imagine with what pleasure I thus made my first entrance into an American Hotel. I could hardly fancy myself in "propria persona" ( as they say in the classics ) in the City of New York, with three thousand miles of ocean intervening between myself and my friends at home; I had often thought that I should be delighted to see that go- ahead American City, but I had not an idea thai my wishes would so soon be realised. I was not entirely by myself whilst in New York, for one of my fellow passengers, Mr Mc'Lean of Manchester, staid with me at my Hotel, so we had the pleasure of each other's society during my stay. There is comparatively little difficulty in finding your way about New York, or, indeed most American towns, except in the old parts thereof, which are as full of twists and turns as our own. The newer part 9 .»» of the City is divided into Avenues running nearly parallel with the Hudson River, the streets cross them at right angles, and hoth are simply numbered ; the masses of buildings which these sections form are very nearly uniform in area, and are termed blocks. The principal thoroughfare is "Broadway", which may be said to bisect New York longitudinally, it is nearly three miles in length, but the width is not so great as I had imagined. The great place for lounging, or "loafing", as they term it — is Broad- way and here on a fine afternoon you will see some of the neatest feet, some of the prettiest hands, and some of the brightest eyes, and also some of the sweetest smiles that any one would ever wish to behold; had they but good figures, the picture would be complete; they dress with Parisian perfection, and in short they are considered the veriest little ducks in the world. I am sure the reader will not be surprised when I mention the fact, that "loafing" up and down Broadway is a favourite occupation with the young men who have leisure hours to spare. No one could be at a loss in being able to find an Hotel to his fancy in New York, they are most numerous, and they are all carried out in a manner perfectly new to an Englishman. I purpose leaving my remarks on the Hotels until I have finished the subject of my tour. Amongst the public edificies of the City, the City Hall, the Custom House, and the Merchants Exchange rank the foremost ; the Post Office is in no way I l\\ 10 ronijirkjxble for nrcliitectural beauty, but merely as beiiii,' one of the remnants of the past, having been I'ormerly used as a Church by one of the old Dutch congregations : it was in the Custom House that General Washington was inaugurated as the first i'resident of the United States. The most fashionable part of New York is the '• Fifth Avenue ", in which are situated some of the finest private mansions in the City; these houses are for the most part very elegant, and they command very high rents, ^300 to <£400 per Annum being moderate, and this without any garden, the ground being so high in value that it is a rare thing to see a gnrden attached. One of the greatest public works of the City is the Croton Aqueduct, by which New York is abundantly supplied with water, brought fr(>m the Croton Lake, forty miles distant. During mv stav in the Citv I visited a new Park which was in course of formation, it is several hundred acres in extent; when finished it will be a delightful retreat. The shops in New York are very good, but, gpnerjiUy spoaking, ?o nmch alike, that the eye is wearied with sameness, when the novelty has worn ofl'; the rivalrv which exists as to the *' luxe " of fitting up some of these shops is surprising. The houses are mostly built of brick, and generally have steps up to them, by which nrrangement the area receives much more light. Many of the shops have stops down to the basement, which is let out for dininjT Saloon^; &c : the better class of houses, large 11 Hotels, and some of tke shops, have tiioir fronts faced with stone of a reddish brown which has a pleasant appearance. The most remarkable among the new buildings is the magnificient Store of Mr Stewart, it has upwards of «ne himdred and fifty feet frontage on Broadway, and runs back nearly tiie same distance; is five stories high, besides the basement; its front is faced with white marble, and it contains nearly every market- able commodity except eatables. Amid the variety of shops I could not fail to notice the wonderful number of oyster-saloons stuckdown on the basement, and photographic rooms perched on the top floors; their name is legion ; everybody eats oysters, and everybody seems to take everybody else's portrait. Our American friends deal largely in newspaper puffs, and some of them are amusing enough. I heard that the most gigantic advertiser is Professor HoUoway, so well known in this country ; it is said that he advertises in thirteen hundred papers in the United States, and has expended in various parts of the world, the enormous sum of nearly half a million s'<;erling, solely for that purpose. I must now say a few words respecting the state of the streets ; the paving, except in Broadway, is not equal to that in the City of London, and doubtless New York is infinitely dirtier than London; I must certainly say it is not so clean as it should be, con- sidering thjit the sum nominally spent in cleansing the streets, amounts to nearly j660,000 a year. 12 I ! iiU i ■, ! III! But over and al)(>ve what I have just stated, thefo is a great nuisance in the streets of New York, especially in the lower and business part of the City, which must he palpable to every visitor; — ^ I refer to the obstructions on the pavement and that, be it observed, in spite of laws passed for the prevention thereof, but rendered nugatory from maladministration. In many places you will see a man occupying the whole pavement opposite his Store with immense boxes and bales for apparently an indefinite period, for I have noticed the same things resting in the same places day after day, and forcing every passer- by off the pavement. During my stay in New York, I visited the Opera House, where I was fortunate enough in seeing that charming little actress Piccolomini, in"La Favorita'% the House is a very fine building, and is capable of accommodating over four thousand persons; evening dress is not compulsory. I also visited most of the thentres, the interior arrangements of which are much superior to what one meets with in our London Houses ; all the decorations are also very elaborate, there is a clear gangway of several feet in the centre of tlie Pit which arrangement gives easy access to the seats ; these latter are lined and also backed with lol velvet, and in fact, everyw^here through the House, comfort is studied. The visitor to a theatre in New York is not obliged to buy a "bill of the play" but can take one or more if he pleases, free of charge when he enters ; these programmes, in addition to 13 the usual details of tlie evening's entertainment, contain numerous advertisements, which plan I have no douht the proprietors find pay very well. An important feature in a populous City, is the means of conveyance, which in New York, in addition to hack cabs and omnibusses, includes what are termed horse-railroad cars. The habits of the Am^cans being essentially gregarious, and business teaching the truism, that a cent saved is a cent gained^ hackney coaches are comparatively little used by the men; for be it remembered, that idlers in th»t country are an invisible minority of the community! The natural consequence is, that these coaches are clean and expensive, a stranger certainly might take them to be private carriages, so well are they kept. The drivers are very free and easy, but not meaning to be uncivil. Their free-and-easiness can never be better exemplified than in an old anecdote, told of so many people, from an ex-prince of France, down- ward; viz, the prince having ordered a hack cab, was standing at the door of the Hotel, smoking his cigar, and waiting for its arrival. When cabby drove up, judging from the appearance of the prince that he was "the fare", he said, "Are you the chap that sent for a cab? " And being answered with an affir- mative smile, he said, "Well, get in; I guess I'm the gentleman that's to drive you." The next means of conveyance to be noticed, is the Omnibus; they are certainly superior to our English ones, simply because they are broader: the most' 1^ It 14 rotund embodiment of an Alderman after a turtle- soup dinner, even if he had — to use the emphatic language of Mr Weller — been " swellin wisibly ", could pass up the centre without inconvenience to the passengers on either side. No conductors are employ- ed on these omnibusses, which doubtless effects a very great saving ; the door shuts by a strap running along the roof, with a noose on the end, which the driver puts on his foot. Any one wishing to alight, pulls the strap; the driver stops; and, putting his hand through a pigeon-hole place in the roof, takes the fare. There is only one complaint against the omnibusses — and that is, their monoply of Broadway, which would really have a very fine and imposing appearance were it not for them ; the constant noise also is deafening. The last means of conveyance to be mentioned are the horse-railroad cars, which — the city being built on a perfect flat— are admirably adapted for locomo- tion. Tlie rails are laid down in a broad Avenue, on each side of Broadway, and in various other parts of the city; the cars are drawn by a pair of horsei, and they will hold from five and twenty to thirty passen- gers; these cars may be called long omnibusses, low on the wheels, very broad, airy, and clean, and excessively convenient for getting in and out. There is a break at both ends, one under the charge of the driver, the other under the guard; so that, though trotting along at a good pace, they are very soon stopped. When they arrive at the end of th« tfiVih-WA}% ike horses change ends, thus . avoiding the nreeessity of any tumittg, the s])ace required for which would have made a great tt'fference in the expense. For a huF^, bustling city, on a flat, the horse-railroad car is unquestionahly by far the best conveyance, on account of carrying so many, and being s6 handy for ingress aiid egrefis. "V^Tiilst speaking of the cars, I ought to mention that I was ratuer surprised to fiild a notice affixed on some of taem to the cfTeRt that, " Coloured people are allowed to ride in this Car"; they are not permitted to enter a car unless it bears the said notice. One morning accompanied by Cf^tain Tiidcer, I visitM the Unitecl States Navy Yard, which is sitikated abrogs^ the East River at Brooklyn ; this lattet place is mostly inhabited by business people from N^w York, who have constant access to and fro by meftAs of numerous feitiesi across the East River. Before I close my account of New York, I must not omit to mention the great kindness I met with from several gentlemen, to whom I had letters of introduction from friends in London; more especially from Captain Tinker, and Mr Murray; the former gentleman very kindly invited me to meet several of his friends, in whose company I spent a pleasant evening. Mr Murray was also most kind in entertain- ing me at his Club house, and giving me useful information respecting the Giant Republic through which I wds about to travel. "Well, r^ador, I must now tell you, that after a 10 i! i'i delightful stay of a week in New York, I left that hustling city for Philadelphia, where I arrived on the evening of May 1 8 th. Philadelphia is in extent and popula- tion, the second city in the Union. It was settled in 1682 hy a colony of English Quakers, under the guidance of William Penn. The soubriquet of the City of Brotherly Love, which it now bears, was given to it by Penn himself. This city lies between t'le Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, six miles above their junction; the site however is so low and level, that it does not make a very impressive appearance from any approach. But the elegance, symmetry, and neatness of its streets, and the picturesque character of the higher suburban land to the north- ward, fully compensate for this want. The streets of Philadelphia, which run north and south from the Schuylkill to the Delaware, are named after the trees, a row whereof grow on each side; but whether from a poetic spirit, or to aid the memory, some of the names are changed, that the following couplet, em- bracing the eight principal ones, may form a handy guide to the stranger or the resident : — " Chestnut, walnut, spruce, and pine, ' Market, arch, race, and vine." Mulberry, sassafrass, and juniper, would have dished the poetry . The cross streets are all called by numbers ; thus any domicile is easily found. The traverse street is an exception however, being called "Broad"; it looks 17 lis name well, and extends from the city into the country. The chief of the public buildings is the State House, in which is a room where on the 4th. July 1776, the Declaration of Independence was adopted by Congress, and publicly proclaimed from the steps on the same day. On viewing that room I was told that it now presents the same appearance as regards furniture, and interior decorations, as it did on that eventful day. Another public building is the Girard College, a magnificient edifice, founded by one Stephen Girard some years since for the education of orphans. The United States Mint is situated in Philadelphia, and there is also a Navy Yard. Many of the bank edifices are very elegant, built of marble and other materials. Churches, Art Societies, and Literary and Scientific Institutions abound in Philadelphia. This city, like many others in America, is liberally supplied with water. Magnificient basins are built in a natural mound at Fairmount, about two miles distant ; the water is forced up into these basins from the river by powerful water-wheels, worked by the said river, which is dammed up for the purpose of obtaining sufficieut fall, as the stream is sometimes very low. May 20th. To day I left Philadelphia for the great commercial city of Baltimore. One of the chief attractions in this city, is a very splendid Monument erected to the memory of Washington; it is built of pure white marble, is 196 Mt in height inclusive r <>r the l>asein(?nt, and is surmounted by a colossal statue of the "pater* patriab" ; it is said to be the chief amon » the structures of the kind. In several respects Baltimore deserves the name of a fine city. It possesses many elegant public buildings; its streets are wide, long, and full of life and Activity. The people in this city who enjoy the widest — if not the most enviable — reputation, are the fire companies. They are all volunteers, and their engines are admi- rable. I heard they are all as jealous of each other as "Kilkenny Cats", and when they come together, they scarcely ever lose an opportunity of getting up a fight. They are even accused of doing occasionally a little bit of arson, so as to get the chance of a row. The people composing the companies are almost entirely rowdies, and apparently of any aga above sixteen: when extinguishing fires, they exhibit a courage and reckless daring that cannot be surpassed, and they are never so happy as when the excitement of danger is at its highest. Their numbers are so great, that they materially afi'ect the elections of all candidates for city affairs; the style of persons chosen may hence be easily guessed. \ May 21st. To day I journeyed on by rail to Washington, the political capital of the United States. The principal object of attraction is the Capitol, which stands on a rising knoll, commanding an extensive panoramic view of the surrounding country. The building is on a grand scale, and faced with marble, which, glittering in the sunbeams, gives it IM A very imposing appearance, which will be materially tiiiluinced when the two wings are conripleted, the corner stone of which was laid in 1851 . The Senate Chamber, and tlie Hall of Representatives of the Congress of the United States, are in the wings of the Capitol, on either side of the central building. The grand rotunda contains eight large pictures, illustrating scenes in American history, painted for the Government by native artists. The comer stone of this splendid structure was laid by Washington himself, Sept: 18th. 1793. The surrounding grounds, which are beautifully cultivated, and embellished by fountains and statuary, embrace from twenty five to tliirtv acres. The Presidents' Mansion is situated on a high terrace at the other extremity of the city, near which are the buildings of the Navy and War De- partments, and also those of the State and Treaaiiry Departments, the latter is a new and very imposing structure. May 22nd. I attended Church this morning, and during the afternoon I enjoyed some strolls ubout the neighbourhood. May 23rd. The Capitol took much of my atten- tion to day, and I was delighted with all that I had the chance of seeing. Washington is delightftdly situated on the banks of the Potomac River; the site of the city was chosen by Washington himself. The principal street is Pennsylvania Avenue, it is more than a mile in length, is very broad, and well planted with trees. !i i i! „ .May.24t|i. I waiteid in this city till to day, in ordrir to avail myself of the opportunity of visiting the "Tomb of General Washington"; as on every Tuesday and Fiiday a Steamer leaves for making an excursion to the spot. The Tomb is situated ou Mount Vernon, which lies on the banks of the Potomac River, about sixteen miles from the city of Washing- ton. A little distance from the Tomb is the mansion where the **hero" retired to in 1796, and he died there on the 14th. December 1799. The mansion although in a dilapidated condition, is beautifully located on elevated ground, overlooking the still waters of the Potomac. No spot in Ameiica is visited with greater interest or with feelings of more profound reverence thaii Mount Vernon; and no day is held more sacred in the calendar of the Republic than the day (22nd. February) which gave birth to the "Father of his Country". I was very glad I remained to make this excursion which I thoroughly enjoyed. I returned to Washington to dinner by 4 o'c, after which I took the rail back to Baltimore. May 25th. To day I commenced making my way to "The West", taking a through ticket frcm Balti- more to Cincinnati, a distance of six hundred and sixty miles. I left the former city early this morn- ing, and about mid-day alighted for the night at Harpers Ferry. As this great route is in extent, commercial importance, and pictorial attraction, one of the most important and int;eresting in the States, 21 I purpose giving a few details as regards the scenery &c, which most attracted my notice. Harpers Ferry is most beautifully situated in the midst of romantic scenery. During the afternoon I enjoyed some most agreeable rambles in the vicinity of this delightful spot. There is a gun factory ^ situated at this place, belonging to the government, which gives employment to several hundred people. This evening I was greatly amused by listening from the front rooms of the Hotel at an open air meeting, which took place in order to give »»wo candidates (for the State of Ohio) an opportunity of expressing their opinions. May 26th. This morning I took the mid-day train for Grafton, arriving there by lOo'c in the evening; a very good Hotel situated at the Station, enabled me to refresh the inward man, and then to enjoy a few hours sleep. The reason of my staying the night at Harpers Ferry was to enable me to view the scenery on this great route in daylight, and I was not dissappointed by so doing. The whole course of the railway is through a region of the highest picturesque variety and beauty, and the grbater part is very mountainous. From a place called Piedmont the line makes an ascent of seventeen miles by a grade, of which eleven miles is at the rate of 116 feet per mile. The frequent curves which occur on the line present to view some magnificient prospects; a portion of the way is on the rugged and uncultivated mountain sides, and it was many times thrilling to one's sense;^, to mr 22. !|jn 'i f m bj as it sct'iued in such dangerous positions; if the least thing had gone YTong, nothing could buve prevented the train from being precipitated several hundred feet into the valley beneath. May 27th. Tliis morning I was up betimes, leaving Grafton soon after 4 o'c by the express train for Cincinnati. The scenery during the most of to day's journey was also very beautiful. At a place called Benwood I first had sight of the famed Ohio River, which was crossed by a Ferry and the rail again taken on the other side. After a very pleasant journey I reached Cincinnati at 8 o'c this evening. I was very glad in being able to obtain a "good snooze" in the Burnet House Hotel, after having had such a length of railway travelling. May 28th. And now reader, I must give you some account of Cincinnati, or, as it is generally called, the "Queen City of the West". It is the largest capital of the Mississippi region, and with its population of over 200,000, is the fifth in extent and importance in all the Union. Its central position on the Ohio River has made it a receiving and distri- buting depot for all the wide and rich country tributary to those great waters. The streets in this great city are mostly of good width, well paved, and well lighted with gas. Main street, the great business highway, is five and a half miles long, and is intersected at right angles by fourteen leading streets, named First, Second, and so on. Amongst the principal buildings is the Observatory, ; ill 23 which has a beautiful position upon Mount Adams, in the eastern part of the city. It commands an extensive view of the Ohio, and of the surrounding country. There are a great number of Churches, and Schools in the city, and also several Benevolent Institutions. Cincinnati is distinguished for the culture of the grape, r.nd it is chiefly owing to the perseverance of Mr. Longworth, that they have been so far successful in producing wine. I learnt that about fifty thousand gallonsis madeperyear. Thewineiscalled "Catawba", and is made both still and sparkling. The following lines will show the reader, how this "Catawba Wine'' has been poetized by Longfellow. — l- "Very good in its way Is the Verzenay Or the Sillery soft and creamy ; Bat Catawba Wine _ Has a taste more divine, More dulcet, delicious, and dreamy. "There grows no vine By the haunted Rhine, By Danube or Guadalquiver, Nor on Island or Cape, That bears such a Grape As grows by the beautiful river." Cincinnati is also noted for its pig trade, from which the city obtains the soubriquet of "Porkopolis". Pff 24 I i ■ i I I! :|.ii< The following account is from a gjntleman, who visited one of the slaughter houses, possibly it may be curious enough to be read by some, but if your nerves are at all delicate, pass the description over, for, though perfectly true, it is very horrid. He says, — "Poor piggy mustdie" is a very old saying, whence it came I cannot tell; but were it not for its great antiquity, Cincinnati might claim the honour. The post of slaughter is at the outskirts of uie town, and as you approach it, the squeaking of end- less droves proceeding to their doom fills the air, and in wet weather the muck they make is beyond descrip- tion, as the roads and streets are carelessly made, and as carelessly left to fate. When we were within a couple of hundred yards of the slaughter house, they were absolutely knee-deep, and, there being no trottoir, we were compelled to wait till an empty cart came by, when, for a small consideration, Jonathan ferried us through the mud pond. Behind the house is the large pen in which the pigs are first gathered, and hence they are driven up an inclined plane into a small partition about twelve feet square, capable of containing from ten to fifteen pigs at once. In this enclosure stands the executioner, armed with a hammer, — something in shape like that used to break stones for the roads in England — his shirt-sleeves turned up, so that nothing may impede the use of his brawny arms. The time arrived, down comes the hammer with deadly accuracy on the forehead of 25 poor piggy, gjnerally killing but sometimes only stunninghim, in which case, as he awakes to conscious- ness in the scalding caldron, his struggles are frightful to look at, but happily very short. A trap-hatch opens .at the side of this enclosure, through which the corpses are thrust into the sticking-room, whence the blood flows into tanks beneath, to be sold, together with the hoofs and hair, to the manufacturers of priissiate of potash and Prussian blue. Thence they are pushed down an inclined plane into a trough containing a thousand gallons of boiling water, and broad enough to take in piggy lengthways. By the iim'i they have passed down this caldron, they are ready for scraping, for which purpose a large table is joined on to the lower end of the caldron, and on which they are artistically thrown. Five men stand in a row on each side of the table, armed with scrapers, and, as piggy passes down, he gets scrap 3d cleaner and cleaner, till the last polishes him as smooth as a yearling baby. Having thus reached the lower end of the table, there are a quantity of hooks fitted to strong wooden arms, which revolve round a stout pillar, and which, in describing the circle, plumb the lower end of the table. On these piggy is hooked, and the operation of cutting open and cleansing is performed — at the rate of three a minute — by operators steeped in blood, and standing in an ocean of the f>ame, despite the eternal buckets of water with which a host of boys keep deluging the floor. These said operations finished, piggy is hung up on hooks to cool. 26 ii . ntid, when sufficiently so, he is removed thence to the other end of the building, ready for sending to the preparing-houses, >yhither he and his defunct brethren are conveyed in carts open at the side, and containing about thirty pigs each. The wholei off this part of the town during porking season is alive with these carts, and we will now follow one, so that we may see how piggy is finally disposed of. The cart ascends the hill till it comes to a line of buildings* with the canal running at the back thereof; a huge and solid block lies ready for the corpse, and at each side appear a pair of brawny arms grasping a long cleaver made scimitar-shape ; smaller tables are around, and artists with sharp knives attend thereat. Piggy is brought in from the cart, and laid on the solid block; one blow of the scimitar-shaped cleaver severs his head, which is thrown aside and sold in the city, chiefly I believe, to Germans, though of course a Hebrew might purchase if he had a fancy therefor. The head off, two blows sever him lengthways; the hams, the shoulders, and the rib-pieces fly off at a blow each; it has been stated that "two hands, in less than thirteen hours, cut up eight hundred and fifty hogs, averaging over two hundred pounds each, two others placing them on the blocks for the purpose. All these hogs were weighed singly on the scales, in the course of eleven hours. Another hand trimmed thi hams — seventeen hundred pieces — as fast as they were separated from the carcasses. The hogs were thus cut up and disposed of at the rate of more than 27 one to the minute. " Knifemen then come into play, cutting out the inner fat, and trimming the hams neatly, to send across the way for careful curing; the other parts are put into the pickle-barrels, except tha fat, which, after carefully removing all the small pieces of meat that the first hasty cutting may have left, is thrown into a hoilirg callron to he melted down into lard. Barring the time taken up in the transit from the slaughter-house to these cutting-up stores, and the time he hangs to cool, it may be safely asserted, that from the moment piggy gets his first blow till his carcass is curing and his fat boiling into lard, not more than five minutes elapse. A table of piggy statistics for one year may not be uninteresting to the reader. 180,000 bis. of Pork of 196 lbs ea.— 35,280,000 Bacon No. 1 Lard Star Candles Bar Soap Fancy Soap &c 25,000,000 16,500,000 2,500,000 6,200,000 8,800,000 94,280,0001bs . Besides Lard Oil 1,200,000 Gallons! Some idea of the activity exhibited may be formed, when the reader is told that the season for these labours averages only ten weeks, beginning with the second week in November and closing in January ; and that the annual number cured at Cincinnati is about 500,000 head, and the value of these animals when cured, was estimated in 1851 as .£1,155,000. n :!'■')■ 2t --.'f -..■■, Such are the facts wlich I place before the reader to give him some idea of the extent of the pig trade in Cincinnati. There are various other branches of trade which flourish in the neighbourhood of this great - city, two I will mention; the first is "Monongahela whiskey", which is a most important article of manu- facture, being produced annually to the value of ^560,000: the second is the value of foundry products which is estimated at <£725,000 annually, there being forty four foundries, one-third of which are employed in the stove trade; as many as a thousand stoves have been made in one day. The rapid rise of Cincinnati is most astonishing. By a statistical work I find that in 1800 it numbered only 750 inhabitants; in 1840, 46,338 and in 1850, 115,438* these calculations merely include its corporate limits* If the suburbs be added, the population will reach 150,000: of which number only about 3000 are coloured. May 29th. To day being Sunday, it gave me an opportunity of resting from the fatigues of travelling. I attended Church in the momins:, then took a stroll and returned to dinner at 3 o'c. I had a very pleasant walk in the evening. May 30th. At mid-day I left Cincinnati by a Steamer on the Ohio River for Louisville, a distance of 133 miles. The place you embark from is called the levee, and as all the large towns on the river have a levee, I may as well explain the meaning of the term. It is nothing more nor less than the sloping 2« off of the banks of a river, and then paving them, by which operation two objects are gained: • — first, the bank$ are secured from the inroads of the stream; secondly, the boats are thereby enabled at all times to land passengers and cargo with perfect facility. These levees extend the whole length of the town, and are lined with steamers of all kinds and elasses, but all built on a similar plan; the number of them at Cincinnati gives some indication of the commercia! activity of that great city. I enibarked on the "Lady Franklin", and was soon floating down the river of the — ^hi— o. Tlie banks are undulating, and prettily interspersed with cottage villas, which are dotted about the more cul- tivated parts. In consequence of the lowness of the river, wfe were prevented making that quick progress which we otherwise should have done, several times getting on to sand-bars, thereby causing detention. The weather towards liight became stormy, heavy rain with lig'itning. I fortunately had the opportu- nity on the steamer of making the acquaintance of a gentleman, ( accompanied by a friend) MrCrowell of Boston, from whom I received much attention when I visited that citv. As Mr Crowell and his friend purposed making a similar tour to myself through Kentucky, I with much pleasure joined them in that route. Finding that we should not reach our desti- nation this evening in consequence of great detention, I "turned in" to my berth and enjoyed a few hours rest. I pui-pose leaving my description of the steamer 30 llf! It I ! till I have seen more of them. May 31st. Early this morningthe steamer arrived at Louisville, and by 6 o'c we were aafejy lodged in the "Louisville Hotel". L( u'sville has a population of about 60,000, and is the chief city of Kentucky. While in this city I had the pleasure of receiving the first letter from home, which w^as forwarded to me from New York, If the reader has himself been a similar distance from home, he can tell with what feelings of delight any ' news is received from those so far distant from him. June 1st. Before leaving Louisville, Mr Crowell, his friend, and I determined upon visiting "The Mammoth Cave", — the would-be rival of Niagara; — so, early this morning we took the rail to Mum- fordsville, a distance of seventy four miles, thence we proceeded by Stage to Bell's Hotel, about fourteen miles, where we dined. After dinner we again travelled by Stage a distance of nine miles to the Cave Hotel, which is situated within two hundred feet of the entrance to the Cave. In the latter portion of this route which lies through an extensive forest, I may really say there is no road. For at least one half of the way, there is nothing but a rugged tract of rock and roots of trees, ever threatening the springs of the carriage and the limbs of the passengers with frightful fractures. However, by walking over theworst of it, you protect the latter and save the former, thus rendering accidents of rare occurrence. It was 8 o'c in the evening before we : 31 arrived at the Cave Hotel, and assuredly I was A9t sorrv when I reached there, ag the journey had heen. very fatiguing. The weather to day was magnificent, exceedingly hot ; the latter feature was well undeir sto( 1 by myself and the other passenger^ who had seats on the outside of the Stage. However, on the other hand, tlie time passed very quickly and very pleasantly, for there were about eight other visitors besides ot;rselves who intended visiting the Cave» and ().mong^ them was a young man who had "roughed it" in California, and travelled otherwise a great dea); he was certainly the life of the party, for he had 9! plentiful supply of anecdotes and jokes, which kq)t all of 11$ in capital spirits the whole of the journey. The position of the Cave Hotel is lovely, surroundr ed by the wild forest scenery, and in the midst of air, of the purest quality. The building is rather a straggling one, chiefly ground floor, with a verandah all roun 1, but nevertheless every comfort is at the service of the visitor. The evening was niost delight- ful, and after having enjoyed the repast prepared for lis aft<;^r our arrival, I with several of my fellow passen - g.*rs enjoyed a stroll about the garden grounds attached to the Hotel. Amongst the visitors was a Brahmin, Mr Gangooly of Calcutta, accompanied by a few friends, who were making a tour through the States, he afterwards intended visiting London, and also Paris. On hearing that an Englishman was one of the company present, Mr Gangooly desire^ to be introducedto me; we then. F^ 82 ,'•!•, ,1 1; /' •■ if had a long chat respecting the mutinied which had ta*;en place in India; I found him to bo a very pleasant and agreeable young man and much ei^oyed his society. June 2nd. This morning all the visitors were early risers, and by half past 7 o'c breakfast was finished. At 8 o'c all assembled and put themselves under the care of Nicholas the guide, who was to conduct us through thefarfamed^Mammoth Gave". Weformed a party of fifteen, and amongst the number were three ladies; a few smiles were occasioned when the ladies made their appearance, for they came forth in the peculiar costume of the '^Bloomer"; this dress is always provided by the Hotel Proprietor in order to allow ladies to visit the Gave in comfort, for it woulclbe impossible for them to enter in their ordinary dress, in consequence of the difficulty they would have in making their way through the numberless intricate passages. And now the reader must fancy himself one of the fifteen, with a little oil lamp in his bnnl, accom- panying Nicholas, who also is provided vith a lamp and a further supply of the "oily material", in casei of any of the lamps requiring a "replenisher". Afher having passed through a lovely and romantic dell, you make a descent of about thirty feet, and then you perceive a sudden and very evident decrease in the temperature, and you find yourself all at once fairly within the precincts ofthis nether world. The temperature of the Gave is uniformly the same, both 33 in summor and winter, viz 59 deg. Fahrenheit, remarkably dry, and of extraordinary salubrity, and hence considered highly beneficial for invalids. A short distance from the entrance you pass the remains of numerous Saltpetre Yats, as in 1814 immense quantities of Saltpetre were manufactured in the Cave, and although the manufacture has been stopped some long time, yet the quantity of nittous earth still remaining is enormous. The first object of interest is the "Great Vestibule", this vast chamber has one single unsupported arch, covering an area of one and a half acres of ground. The lofty roof, a hundred feet above your head, becomes at length dimly seen; a glimpse is obtained of its enormous dome, with great groined arches and lofty buttresses formed of stalactitic rock. A little further on we come to "Audubon's Avenue", which extends for about half a mile, but presents nothing of very special interest; we then pass through the main Cave for another half mile, when we reach. the "Kentuckv Cliffs", so called from a fancied resem- blance to the Cliffs on the Kentucky River: then making a descent of about forty feet, we enter the "Church". This is a grand apartment, a hundred feet in diameter, with a roof formed of one solid seamless rock suspended seventy feet overhead. Religious services have been performed in the dim religious light of torches, under this magnificent roof. The "Gothic Avenue" is next reached, it is forty feet high and thirty wide, and is nearly two miles ?A I F° '.t I , ! in length. The next object of interest is a huge masa of rock, called the "Giant's Coffin", to which it hears such a striking resemblance that anyone would remark it at first sight. We pass around this in leaving the main passage to visit the rivers, and all the other wonders of this Cave. The passage here is eighty feet high, and a hundred feet wide: on the rock over- head is seen a remarkable natural curiosity, being a p(irfect representation of an animal, formed of a black incrustation of gypsum, which is abundant here, and in other parts also. We now pass several small cabins which had been constructed of rock for the reception of consumptive invalids, it having at one time been supposed that the pure and equable atmosphere of this locality would be highly beneficial to such. It has, accordingly, at various times, been the abode of numerous patients, some of whom have spent seven months and even longer in this extraordinary place. After passing through variously formed passages &;, we reach "Humble Schute", being so called in consequence of the visitor being obliged to humble himself by bowing his body in order to effect an entrance through this narrow passage of some twenty feet in length. .: • ^ •- . .. Next follows what is called the "Fat Man's Misery", being a passage of over a hundred feet in length, eighteen inches wide, and from three to five feet high, widening, however above, so as -o allow for the free use of the arms. In addition to the extremely 35 contracted space through which the hody reqtiires to he forced, the passage winds in a zig-zag manner throttghout its whole length. A thin man can make pretty good progress here, hut one that is corpulent has hut a poor chance, and so it unfortunately proved in this present visit. One of the gentlemen of our party was rather a "rotund character"; we had nearly completed our journey in Indian file as usual, through this tortuous passage, when our fat friend, who was pufRng andhlowing and lahouringonhehind, suddenly called out, "halt there a-head, Fm stuck as tight as a wedge!" and, sure enough, there he was, jammed hard aiid fast hetween the walls, the oruide admin- i.*ftering cold comfort by the assurance that he would find much more difficulty in getting hack again. By a violent muscular effort, he succeeded in forcinghis b)ity through, hut not without seriously damaging his unmentionahles. The whole of our party then en^ergad into what is appropriately named "Great Relief Hall", and our corpulent friend enjoyed the luxury of expanding his rotund person to its legitimate dimensions — a privilege which he gratefully acknow- ledged. Leaving Great Relief Hall, and walking about half a mile, we arrive at "River Hall". This Hall descends like the slope of a mountain; the roof stretches away before you, vast and grand as the firmament at mid- night. Gradually ascending, and keeping close to the wall, you next observe on the opposite side a steep precipice, over yhich you look dowA, by the aid of the lights, upon a brood black 3G 1 'i . Uk I sheet of water, eighty feet below you, called Ibe "Dead Sea". This is an awfully impressive place; tlie sights and sounds of which do not soon pass from the memory. Descending from the eminence by a ladder twenty feet in length, we found ourselves among piles of gigantic rocks; it was certainly a most picturesque sight to see us all passing along these wild and craggy patbs in single file, at times disappearing behind high cliffs, sinking into ravines, and the lights shining upwards througb the fissures ill the rocks. Passing further along you hear the roar of invisible waterfalls; and at the foot of the slope, the river "Styx" lies before you, deep and l)]ack, overarched with rock. Across these unearthly looking waters we were conveyed in a boat by the guide, soon reaching a level and lofty hall, at the end of which we arrived at the banks of "Echo River", To embark on this most interesting and marvellous of all the rivers in the Cave, the visitor is compelled to pass under an arch, which, at an ordinary stage of tlie water, allows him but about three feet of space. This is rather uncomfortable to most people, but the difficulty soon disappears, inasmuch as in a few boats* lengths, the vault becomes wide and lofty. I am sure no one can voyage on this river without experiencing most peculiar feelings. The deep solem- nity, the novelty, the grandeur of the scene, present- ed under the glare of numerous lights, cannot fail powerfully to impress the most stolid and unromantic mind. A whisper here, so astonishing is the echo, I 87 is maguifielmto a loud, hissing sound; and when a fe vv of our party gave a good halloo, it was perfectly deafening; the river is three quarters of a mile in length, and about twenty five feet in width. After the prevalence of long and heavy rains, it is said sbiiiet'mes to rise to a perpendicular height of more than fifty feet. At such times it is impossible to naivigate it. The low arch at the entrance cannot be piassed when the water is even a few feet above the ordlnfii ./level; and cases have been known where parties have been obliged to stay for hours in conse- quence of the water rising rapidly. In these waters the celebrated "Eyeless Fish" is found; a curiosity peculiar to the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. It is a small fish, some three or four iiiches in length, of a white, or rather pale colour, some specimens being almost semi-transparent. Leaving Echo River, the visitor has a journey to perform of - .lout four miles to reach the end of the Cave. Tr; ' ung "Silliman's Avenue" and other parts of the C •, e of less general interest you reach the "Rocky Mountains". Here a fi^reat contrast to the scenes hitherto passed is presented. You are compelled to clamber up ihe rough sides of enormous masses of rock for the distance of thirty or forty feet. You thf T' emerge into a great cave, the roof of which is nbo\. ' hundred feet in height; and a huge pile, consisting of large masses of rock, is seen completely crowding the cavern on one side. It is supposed these masses were detached by a great earthquake 1' j ' ;, 1 1 Flffl i 1, i il 11 ff"" 1 k J 'i ! M fl i i i 1- 1 1 s wliich occurred in this vicinity in 1811. It would I am sure be tiring the reader to recount further the numberless interesting parts of this Cave, suffice it to say, that at almost every step there is something to stop and admire, stalactites most numerous and magnificent in appearance. The length of this wonderful Cave is nine miles, so the reader may perhaps be partly t l^o to conceive the energy that is required to effect v. novel undertaking. However, the air being so extremely pure, fatigue is not felt to such an extent as might be imagined. At various times we were enabled to refresh ourselves with capital spring water; and in the middle of the day we formed a most picturesque group in a large vestibule of the Cave, and enjoyed some of the "good things of this world" which our guide had taken in with him. Well, after having made a successful tour through the Cave, we retraced our steps, and reached the entrance in safety by 6 o'c in the evening ; after having n:ale a most agreeable and interesting visit to the m'^st wonderful natural curiosity that I have ever seen. Our guide Nicholas was a very facetious fellow, and he every now and then amused u? all by his laconic anecdotes. The weather this evening was lovely. June 3r 1. In yesterday's route through the Cave we omitted making one detour to visit the "Star Chamber", and the "Gothic Chapel"; so Mr Crowell, his friend, and I, accompanied by Mr Gangooly and our facetious guide Nicholas, spent three hours this » 39 morning in viewin maornificent sunset that I had ever seen. June 16th. Cleveland, after Cincinnati, ia the chief city of Ohio; it is situated on the shore of Lake Erie. The streets are wide, regular, well paved, and most agreeably shaded with fine trees. Near the centre of the town is a public square, occupying ten acres. After dinnpr I was again on the move, leaving at 3 o'c for Buffalo, where I arrived by 11 o'c at night; the railway on a great part of this route is constructed on the banks of Lake Erie. June 17th. I had a pleasant stroll through th9 • principal portions of Buffalo this morning. In the vicinity of the city there are a great number of private residences, most of them having pleasant gardens attached, whicli gave them an appearance similar to villas in our own country. * * r^- . > Buffalo is an important commercial and ralsa^ II d9 manufacturing city, it has grown so great and so fast, that although it was laid out as late as 1801, and in 1813 had only two hundred houses, its popu- lation numbered two years since 80,000. It certainly is a wondrous place — a type of American activity and enterprise: a splendid harbour, a lighthouse, piers, breakwater, &c, have been constructed, and the place is daily increasing. In the year 1852 upwards of four thousand vessels, representing a million and a half of tonnage, cleared at the harbour, and goods to the value of nearly seven millions sterling arrived from the Lakes, the ^eater portion of the cargoes being grain. The value of goodn annually delivered by the Erie Canal is eight millions. This afternoon I quitted Buffalo, and in an hour I was conveyed by rail to that "Wonder of Wonders" the Falls of Niagara. Having decided upon staying at the hotel on the Canada shore first, as soon as I alighted from the cars I made my way to the Ferry House (about ten minutes walk); here there is an inclined plane, down which I descended in a car, which was worked by a water wheel and rope. Arrived at the bottom of the inclined plane I found a ferry-boat waiting to convey me over the Niagara River to the Canadian side; about ten minutes sufHced to land me in safety on the soil of Canada, the passage in the ferry-boat was most exciting and novel, for it was tossed about like a mere toy on the mass of turbulent waters, and ' being quite close to « portion of the Falls it was ^^i .<"• GJ i almost impossible to hear oqe'^ oim voice. At soon as I gained the opposite shore I proceeded to the Clifton House Hotel, which is situated nearly opposite the centre of the irregular crescent formed hy the Falls. ., u. Douhtless the reader will now say, what were yo«r first impressions? That is a difficult question tp answer. Certainly, I did not share that feeling of disappointment which some people have expressed. The following few remarks were made hy a gentleman who visited Niagara some time previous to my being th^'re. He said — *'If a man propose to go to Niagara for mare beauty, he had better stay at home and look at a lily through a microscope; if to hear a mighty noise, he had better go where the anchors are forged in Portsmouth Dockyard; if to see a mighty struggle of waters, he had better take a cruise on board a pilot boat, in the Bay of Biscay, during an equi' noctial gale; but, if he be content to see the most glorious cataract his Maker has placed upon our globe ; if, in a stupendous work of Nature, he have a soul- ; to recognise the Almighty Workman; and if, while gazing thereon, he can travel from Nature up to Nature's God; then, let him go to Niagara, in full * assurance of enjoying one of the grandest and most solemnizing scenes that this earth affords." It is certainly impossible to acquaint the readerr with the state of my feelings when I found myself ; face to fa^e wit^these most wonderful Falls. ' J am- - fully satisfied tlmt it it^ & loDg tiint) before the finite senses of any human heing can grasp the full glory of this extraordinary spectacle. I cannot say that I ever reached a satisfactory comprehension of it. I only know that I understood thoroughly what was meant hy the ancient phrase of **spellhound" ; that I knew what fascination was; and that I made full allowance for the madness of any poor» weak, excited human creature who, in a moment of impulse or frenzy, had thrown him or her self headlong into that too heautiful and too entrancing, abyss. I will leave till tomorrow giving a further account of this enchanting spot. My pleasures to day were heightened by receiving news from home, and after I had read the letters I could but say to myself, Oh, how I wish some of my friends were present with me to enjoy the beauties of Niagara. June 18th. The weather to day was lovely. I Was fortunate in arriving at the Falls before the commencement of the "season", which enabled me to obtain first rate accommodation at the hotel; my bedroom was situated facing the Falls, a finer prospect it was impossible to obtain. After the first feelings of mingled awe and delight were over^ I began in some degree to realise the sublimity of the scene. What overcomes the visitor at first is the continual roar of the mass of mighty waters, it is perfectly deafening, but as soon as the ear becomes accustomed to it, th«y descend with a lulling and soothing vmi. Th« »oiie of the Fall* j^: m is sometimes heard at a very great distance, but of course it is constantly modified by the direction and strength of the wind. - . . -^ - The great Lakes of North America — Superior, Michigan, Huron and Erie — pour the flood of their accumulated waters into Lake Ontario, through a channel of about 36 miles in length. This channel is named the Niagara River, and is part of the boundary between Canada and the State of New York. Twenty two miles below its commencement at Lake Erie occur those celebrated Falls of Niagara. These Falls are divided into two by Goat Island. The Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall is in reality Niagara itself, it is 2000 feet wide, and 160 feet high. The American Falls are 900 feet wide, and about 160 foet high, stupendous as they arc, they must be considered no more than an off;*lioot from the main cataract. Over tliis magnificent precipit3 it is said the irresistible tide rushes at the rate of a hundred million tons of water every hour! Niagara, according to the testimony of all who dwell near it, is never more beautiful than in the cold midwinter, when no tourists vi?it it, and when the sides of the chasm are corrugated and adorned with pillars and stalactites of silvery frost; and when huge Mocks of ice from Lake Erie> weighing hundreds of tons, are hurled down the Rapids and over the Falls, as if they were of no greater specific gravity than feathers or human bodies, and reappear half a mile lower down tb river, shivered to numberless fragments. wmm 63 Vi f* It is a tradition of Niagara tl;at, in 1822 or 1823, such a thick wall of ice was formed above Goat Island that no water flowed past for several Lours, and that in the interval tlie precipice at the Horse Shoe Fall was perfectly bare and dry. A picture of the scene, painted at the time, is still in existence. One of the grandest views of the Horse Shoe Fall is obtained from "Table Rock", a large overhanging ledga; from this point the sight is most impressive an 1 sublime. Amongst the numberless spots of interest to which the visitor is taken by the guides, is one on a path which lies under a portion of the Horse Shoe Fall ; waterproof garments are provided as it is almost impossible to walk on the said spot without getting drenched. However, I felt inclined to make my o^wn ^t ay, so I discarded both the use of the guide and the waterproof garments. I was fortunate in viewing the scone in safety, but of course I did not penetrate anything like the distance as if I had been accompanied by a guide. On the narrow path where 1 stood the view was awfully grand, the thick volume of water which seemed near enough for me to touch, came bounding down with immense velocitv; added to this, the hissing spray, and the deafening roar from the misty vortex which was at my feet, pro- duced an indescribable feeling of awe, and I was more than ever impressed with the tremendous mag- nificence of Niagara. This evening 1 had a most delightful walk along the banks of the Niagara River on the Canadian side; 64 about three miles from the Falls is situated a Suspension Bridge, a noble and stupendous structure, it spans the river, and forms a communication between Canada and the States. Over this bridge the Great Western Railway passes, and the road for carriages and foot passengers is suspended twenty ei£[ht feet below the railway line. The length of the bridge is 800 feet; width, 24 feet; height above the river, 250feot. June 19th. This morning I walked to Church, about three miles from the Hotel; after I returned I enjoyed a itroU till half past 2 o'c when a hundred and thirty of us sat down to dinner; this is not near the number who are present in "the season", about another five weeks time. After dinner I seated my^ self in the balcony of the Hotel, from which spot I was able to enjoy the magnificent sight of the Falls. The weather to day was lovely, very hot ; the evening was also beautiful. I ought to say a few words about the Clifton House Hotel, which is a most extensive place; the accom- modation was most excellent, every comfort that the visitor could wish for being at his command. There are gardens attached, also cor cert rooms, and large public saloons, which of course are the chief places of attraction during the season, and to make the Hotel complete, it is lighted with gas. June 20th. This morning I quitted the Clifkon House,— re-crossing the Niagara River in the ferry- boat-*-"in order to stay a little time on the American .1 : 65 in- shore at the Cataract House Hotel. The view xom this side of the river is not near so grand as that from the Canada shore, only a portion of the Horse l^ioe Fall heing visihle, and the sight of the American Pall being lost to view altogether. However, there are various spots of interest to be visited, first of which is Goat Island. This island which is heavily wooded, divides the Fallfi, it is half a mile long by a quarter broad, and contains about seventy acres. At the extremity of the island is a bridge leading to ''Terrapin Tower". This tower occupies a singular and awful position. A few scattered masses of rock lie on th<$ very brink of the Great Fall, seeming as if unable to maintain their position against the tre- mendous rush, of water. Upon these rocks the tower is built. From the summit is obtained the most magnificent view that can be conceived, — the rapids above rolling tumidtuously towards you, — the green water of the mijjhty Falls at your feet, — ^below you the hissing caldron of spray, and the river with its steep banks beyond, — in fact the whole range of the Falls themselves, and the world of raging waters around them, are seen from this commanding point of view. The tower is forty five feet high. The bridge leading to this tower is usually wet with spray, which behoves the visitor to be careful in crossing. Another splendid sight is obtained by descending "Biddle's Stairs", which were erected to enable visitors to reach the bottom of the perpendicular precipice. From this point the sight is terrifi<". 6»j The frowning cliff seems about to fall, and I was stunned by the roar of the water as it fell headlong on the broken rocks, burst into a white foam, and re-ascended in clouds of spray. Terrapin Bridge and Tower, now diminished by distance, seemed about to be swept over the Falls. Portions of the rock fall here occasionally, so that the passage is not altogether unattended with danger. The following lines arc by Lord Morpeth, now Earl of Carlisle— "There's nothing great orbrififht, thou glorious Fall ! Thou m.ays't not to the fancy's sense recal ; The thunder-riven cloud, the lightning's leap, The stirring of the chamberR of the deep. Earth's "emerald green, and many tinted dyes. The fleecy .whiteness of the upper skies. The tread of armies thickening as they come. The boom of cannon and the bent of drum, The brow oF beauty and the form of grace, V\\6 passion and the prowess of our race. The song of Homer in its loftiest hour. The imresistcd sweep of human power, Britannia's trident on the azure sea, America's young shout of liberty ! Oh! may the waves that madden in thy deep^ There spend their rnge, nor climb the encircling steep, And till the conflict of thy surges cease, The nations on thy banks repose in peace ! " There are various albums at Niagara, containing m riT i ' 67 other eftusioTis equally creditable to their authors ; hut there is also a mas3 of rubbish, from which I will only give two specimens. One, evidently from the pen of a Cockney; and the other, the poetical inspiration of a free and enlightened. Cockney poet — "Next to the bliss of seeing Sarah, Is that of seeing Nia — ga — ^ra." Free and enlightened — "Of all the roaring, pouring, Spraying streams that dash, Niagara is Number One All to immortal smash ! " Not desiring to appear to as great disadvantage as either of the two last quoted writers, I decline the attempt. .Tune 21st. This morning I walked to see the "Wl^irlpool", which is situated about three miles below the Falls. This novel sight is occasioned by the river making noarly a right angle, while it is here narrower thaa at any other place, not being more than thirty rous wide, and the current running with such velocity as to rise up in the middle ten feet above the sides, tliis has been ascertained by meas'irement. After dining I amused myself by strolling about Goat IrJand. To reach this island the visitor has to cross two light iron bridges (con- necting Bath Island) at the first of which he has to M j.tv ; '.Hi m. ¥ ran i 63 pay twenty five cents, and to enter his name in a book, this entitles him to cross as often as he pleases. Prom these bridges the "Rapids" are seen in grand and impressive aspect; forming a magnificent sight. The fall of the river from the head of the rapids (a mile above the Falls) to the edge of the precipice is nearly sixty feet; and the tumultuous madness of the waters, hurling and foaming; in wayward billows and breakers aown this descent, as if fretting with impatience, is a fine contrast to the uniform mag- nificent sweep with which at length they gush into the thundering flood below. Thus have I endeavoured to place before the reader the glories of Niagara; I feel it is but a poor and shadowy description of that wonderful and glorious sight. I can assure the reader that it was not without great reluctance that I ouitted that enchanting spot, after having spent four days of the greatest pleasure imaginable. June 22n(l. This morning compelled me to take my last look at Niagara, and having taken my seat in the Cars I was soon on my way to Hamilton. This city is among the most beautiful and most prosperous in Canada; I only staid there three hours, then proceeded again to Toronto, reaching there by 5 o'c. Finding that there was to be a representation of the Opera of the Bohemian Girl at the theatre this evening, I took my place in the boxes, there to witness the manner in which theatricals were con- ducted in this pjirt of Canada. I was surprised on Si 69 entering, to And the theatre very small, certainly not the size of the Strand Theatre in London; the accommodation was very indifferent, the fittings and decorations to match. I was still further astonished when I perceived only two men appear to form the Orchestra, hut it was a fact, one played a piano* nnd the other a violin; I need not dilate upon the merits of the "get up" of the Opera, I will leave this to the reader to imagine. June 23rd. Toronto is the largest and most po- pulous city in Canada West, it is prettily situated on Lake Ontario, a lake ahout a hundred and ninety miles long hy fifty hroad. The position of the town is ndmirahly adapted for a sjeai commercial city: it possesses a secure harhour, and it has many facilities of speedy water and railway communication. The Provincial Legislature meets at Toronto and Quebec, alternately, every four years — an arrange- ment made since the disturbances of 1849, which resulted in the burning of the Parliament Houses at Montreal. However, these arrangements are now altered, the city of Ottawa having been selected by the Home Government in place of Toronto. The University claims the most attention amongst the various public buildings in Toronto, it is a very fine and handsome edifice. June 24th . This morning I left Toronto, and after travelling al»out six hours by railway I arrived in Kingston. This is but a small place, though once of considerable importance; it is beautifully situated. ■I. i. 1! ■ <■ t T'lt 70 and is strongly fortified; it also possesses some very fine public buildings. June 25tli. This morning at 6 o'c I left Kingston by Steamer, to make my way down the River St Lawrence to the City of Montreal. I had looked forward with much pleasure to this tour, having heard that the route lay through some most beautiful scenery. After about three hours sail from Kingston, the steamer arrived at the finest portion of the route, known and admired by many as the "Thousand Isles". It wns certainly many times a curious speculation to me, how the steamer was to find its way through the labyrinth of the countless islands, which studded the broad waters of the St Lawrence; the scenery was charming. By 3 o'c we arrived at the " Rapids ", passing which always creates an excitement on board; previous to arriving at Lachine Rapid, which is the principal one and the most dangerous, an old Indian came on board to pilot the steamer through this intricate and difficult passage. Soon was the steamer in the midst of the raging water, and it required all the energy and self command of our trusty pilot to keep the vessel from making a plunge into various dangerous parts of the river; such was the force of the current that the steamer was carried along at the rate of thirty miles an hour, and this without the aid of any steam power, the engines beins; purposely stopped. Passing over these Rapids was certainly both novel and exciting, but I was glad when I found the steamer had passed them all in safety. The 71 weather this morning had been dull, but as the after- noon advanced it became overcast, and soon we encountered a heavy thunderstorm, this slightly interfered with the afternoon's pleasure; however I enjoyed this day's route exceedingly. By 6 o'c the steamer reached Montreal, a short time sufficed for landings &c, and taking a seat in an omnibus I was soon "set down" at the Montreal House Hotel. June 26th. The weather to day was lovely, very hot. This day is always looked forward to by the inhabitants of Montreal, and it is considered to be tliegaladay of tbe year ; it is called " Grand Procession Sunday". I was fortunate in arriving in time to view the ceremony; this consisted in the High Priest going in f^tate to the Cathedral, accompanied by Nuns, Priests, the numerous charity schools of the city, and numberless other personages too numerous to mention. When these various people chanted as they pjissed alongi, the effect was very striking; on the arrival of the procession at the Cathedral, a grand service and High Mass was performed in that edifice. June 27th. I must now give the reader some idea of the venerable, picturesque, and flourishing city of Montreal ( invariably pronounced Montre — all). It is one of the most ancient cities on the North American Continent^ having been founded in 1642. It contains a population of 75,000. It is not only a beautiful but a solidly-built city^ and wears a general'air and aspect of sti^ngth befitting the climate. By the French Roman Catholics* who form nearlv ■<■■ i f f : 72 one half of the population, it is called affectionately the Ville Marie, or town of the Virgin Mary; the names of its principal streets, derived from those of the Saints in the Romish Calendar, testify alike to the fervency and to the faith of its founders. The quays of Montreal are unsurpassed hy those of any city in America; built of solid limestone, and uniting with the locks and cut stone wharves of the Lachine Canal, they display for several miles a mass of con- tinuous masonry. Unlike the towns of the Ohio and the Mississippi, no unsightly warehouses disfigure the river side. A broad terrace, faced with xy limestone, the parapets of which are surmounted ^ith a substantial iron railing, divides the city from the river throughout its whole length. Amongst the public buildings, the most remark- able is the Roman Catholic Cathedral; of the vastness of the interior of this edifice, an idea may be formed from the fact thcit it is capable of accommodating nearly 12,000 persons. The view from the summit of its towers, one of which I ascended — embracing the city and its suburbs, the river, and the surround- ing country — is exceedingly beautiful . Other elegant public edifices claim the attention of the visitor, also numerous banks, nunneries, and churches: all of these buildings are erected in a most durable manner. June 28th. The weather yesterday and to day was splendid; the heat which prevailed would be thought extreme in England (94 degrees in the shade), although in this part it was only the commencement 73 of the hot weather. Previously to the acquiiition of the present railway system in Canada, the immense resources of that country were consequently little known. Foremost in this system of railways is the Grand Trunk Railway, which running through the head of Canada for a distance of 1000 miles, is the most important; it has ocean termini at Portland and Quehec, and on the West communicates with the great lines of rail- ways in the States. In the construction of this immense length of railway it was seen to be important that perfect unity should be preserved, and that no break should occur in crossing the river St Lawrence. Then arose the question, can the St Lawrence be bridged? At the point proposed the river is no less than two miles wide, the current is very rapid, and in the spring much danger arises from the immense masses of floating ice. However, after a careful inspection of the proposed spot, it was decided as practicable to erect an iron bridge, on the tubular principle, so triumphantly instanced in the construc- tion of the Britannia Bridge over the Menai Straits in England. This now brings me to my intended remarks respecting the Victoria Tubular Bridge at Montreal. This bridge when completed will certainly be the most wonderful production of engineering skill in the world; the iron tubes rest upon twenty five piers, these latter are very massive, many of the blocks of stonfr weighing twelve to fifteen tons each. The centre •'it tube is three hundred and thirty feet in leugth, and the twelve tubes on each lide of the centre one arc two hundred and forty two feet in length; the height of the centre span is sixty feet above summer water level. The length of "tubing" is over one mile and three quiirters, with the stone approaches — which are exceedingly massive — the length is just upon two miles. The great difficulty that had to be encountered was being able to get a good foundation upon the rocky bed of the river, and the work that had to be accom- plished — previous to a single stone being laid — was immense; this portion of the work was rendered more tedious in consequence of the rapidfty with which the river run^, which is equal to seven miles an hour. All the iron plates were shipped from Birkenhead, the rivets and other portions were made on the spot, large workshops being erected close handy. The way in which they formed the tubes, was first by erecting an immense staging from pier to pier, and on this the iron platen were rivetted together ; that done, the staging was removed, and the tube was then complete in its resting place. I was most fortunate in being able to inspect this wonderful structure, as I had the good fortune this morning to meet Mr Campbell (who I had last seen in Chicago); this gentleman had a letter of intro- duction to Mr Hodges, the Engineer who was carrying out the works on the part of the eminent contractors Messrs Peto and Co. Mr Campbell very kindly asked me to accompany him, and we both received great 75 attention from Mr Hodges, who explained to ua moat of the details of the construction of the bridge : Mr Ross (the Chief Engineer of the Railway Go) alao accompanied us in our tour of inspection. There •till remained throe tubes to be erected, but the worka were expected to be finished bj the end of the year. To Mr Ross — in conjunction with Mr R. Stephenson — is the honour and praise due of perfecting this stupendous and extraordinary bridge. This evening I hired a carriage and had a most delightful ride round the Mountain, a route generally recommended to strangers, the views from varioua points are splendid. June 29th. This morning at 7 o'c I bade adieu to Montreal ; crossing the St Lawrence by Ferry, I took n^y place in the cars for Quebec, which city is situated 170 miles from Montreal. By 2 o'c I had arrived oppo&ite Quebec, and as the city lies on the same side of tlie river St Lawrence as Montreal, I had to re-cross by Ferry, * Quebec is the capital of United Canada, and after Montreal, the most populous city in British North America ; it is the quaintest and most remarkable city in the New World — picturesque as Edinburgh and strong as Gibraltar. Everybody who has seen or read of Quebec must remember the magnificent towering rock overhanging the river, on the summit of whii^h the citadel is placed, forming at once the chief stronghold of its defence, and the grandest future of its scenery. The city is divided into twg i:t 76 sections, called the Upper and the Lower Towns ; the Tipper Town occupying the highest part of the pro- montory, which is surrounded by strong walls and other fortifications ; and the Lower Town, being built around the base of Cape Diamond. The latter is the bufiness quarter. June 80th. I had not been m!*ny hoars in Quebec before I stood at the wall of the citadel, overlooking the river from a dizzy height of 3(X)feet — the standard of Great Britain floating over my head ; the red-coated soldiers of my native land pacing their rounds, and suggesting, by their general appearance, the dear old country, from which I was separated by so many thousand miles of ocean; and on *':3 soil of whose noble colony I stood, and felt that I was no longer a "foreigner", as I was sometimes reminded when in the United Sthtes. The Citadel with its numerous buildings covers about 40 acres ; its imx>regnable position makes li, perhaps the strongest fortress on the American Con- tinent. The vie-y from the citadel is mosc lovely, taking in, as it doe^, the opposite banks of the great river for nearly 50 miles up and down. I heard it said, that a gentleman once r'^marked, that the only scene he knew more glorious than that 'vhich meets the eye from the citadel at Quebec was Rio Janeiro, which he believed to be by far the grandest in the world ; but the Rio lacks the associations of Quebec. Who could forget that beneath its walls two chieftaini, the Itravest of the brave, fell on the same battle field. I »,*>1 i,-\ The spot where our liero fell is marked hy a pillar, erected in 1834 — seventy five years after the event — bearing the following simple inscription : — Here died Wolfe, Victorious. Nor has the noblo foe been forgotten, though for a long time unnoticed. In the year 1827, the Earl of Dalhousie being Governor-General, a monument was raised in Quebec to Wolfe and Montcalm. The following words, forming part of the inscription I think Well worthy of insertion: "Military prowess gave them a common death. History a common fame, Posteritv a common monument." It is a curious fact, that when the foundation stone was laid, an old soldier from Ross-sliire, the last living veteran of the gallant band who fought under Wolfe, was ])resent at the ceremony, bein^,* then in his 95th year. I did not fail going on to the Heiglits of Abraham, laTuous as being the battle fioH where Wolfe, the young General of thirty two, gained Canada for Great Jiritain, and wrested from the French their American empire. While T was enjoyiujL? myself in this roman- tic spot, 1 was enlivened by the '3'Hh rp^tinent making (heir appearance, being marched out fnmi tne citadel to perforii: various field exercises. Qu^-bec contains — besides a very fine Roman Catholic Cathedral — numerous churches and nunneries, also various fine edifices, Iwth public and private. This afternoon I 7'^ liad a carriage and made a most delightful excursion to the Fulls of Montmorenci, situated about eight miles from the city : these falls are a ^'ery fine sight, the descent of the torrent is 250 feet. Those who visit the falls in the winter, see one fine feature added to the scene, although they may lose some others. The spray freezes, and forms a regular cone, of a hundred feet and upwards in height, standing imme- diately at the bottom of the cataract. July 1st. Although I couldhave staid longer with much pleasure in the interesting city of Quebec, yet I resolved to pursue my journey without delay. I shnll always have most pleasing recollections of my trip in Canada, wdere 1 spent many delightful days. Canada, adieu! It was half past 6 o'c this morning that I left Quebec by rail V, ay for Portland, a distance of 320 miles, where I arrived bv 7 o'c in the evening. Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine, is handsomely situated on a p^minsula. The harbor is one of the l)est on the Atlantic coast, the anchorage being pro- tected on every side by land, whilst the water is deep, and conmiunication with the ocean direct and ronveaieut. This city is elegantly built, and the streets are beautifully shaded and embellished with trees; these rural delights give a most pleasing appearance to many of the towns in the States. After enjoying tea on my arrival, I took a stroll through fl portion of the city. July 2nd. Thismomingljourneyedon, andabout 79 mid-day aiTived in thp city of Boston : tli^ Tremont House, a most comfortable hotel, formed my head- quarters. Boston is one of the most interesting of the great American Cities, not only from its position assci id in commercial rank to New York alone, but from its historical associations, and from its numerous and admirable establishment! for education, benevolence, &c ; and from its elegant public and private architec- ture, and from the surpassing natural beauty of all its suburban landscape. Boston Common or Park is a favourite resort of the citizens, it contains about fifty acres, prettily laid out. It would be taxing the reader to give a list of the many public buildings that adorn Boston, amongst which the Churches are numerous, many of them are imposing edifices. The streets of this city, which grew up according to circumstance"-, are manv of them intricate; but these old parts which ren:ain, relieve the eye from the tiring monotony of broad and straight streets. The ncighhourliood of Boston has a charm for a wanderer from the old country ; the roads are excellent, tiie fields and gardens are tidied up, creepers are led up the cottage walls, suburban villas abound, every- thing looked more clean, more snug, and moresettled than the neighbourhood of any other city I visited in America, and tlius forced back upon the mind asso- ciations and reflections of dear old home. July 3rd. This mori\ing I attended Church, and aft<)rwards had a stroll till dinner, also in the evening. 80 July 4th. This day is always held as a national holiday in America, it being the anniversj.ry of the States. It is useless to try to give the reader any idea of the excitement that was going on in the city to day. I strolled about and enjoyed seeing all the various amusements which were going forward ; the day was finished with a grand display of fireworks and illuminations, these however I did not witness, as I left at 6 o'c to re-visit New York, I went by rail to Fall River, where the Steamer Metropolis was waiting to convey passengers on to New York. The steamers on this route are very large, and splendidly fitted up; the Metropolis had berth accommodation for a thousand passengers, so some idea may be formed of their capacity. July 5th. The Metropolis reached New York by ^ o'c this morning, and on landing I walked to the Metropolitan Hotel, where I had before staid. On my way to the hotel I was amused by watching several men with ice-carts, leaving a square block of ice at nearly every doorway ; the consumption of ice is immense, as a daily supply is delivered for a mere trirtt'. I made application to day to Cunard & Goto obtain a passage home in their Steamship Arabia, which was to leave Boston in a week hence for Liverpool: I was very fortunate in being able to obtain a berth, as at this season of the year there are always a great number of people leaving-^or England. I called this morning I called on Mr Galwey, the ffputleman who went out with me in the same cabin H'l I in the Persia ; I had the pleasure of his company at my hotel to dinner, when I made him acquainted with the success of my tour; after dining we went to Nihh)'s Theatre, wliich is attached to the hotel. July 6th. To day I also staid in New York. I did myself the pleasure this morning of calling upon Messrs Murray & Ingate, from whom I had received much kind attention; tliey were pleased to find tliat I had made such a del^'g^itful tour, and that I had enjoyed myself so thoroughly. After spending a pleasant day strolling ahout the city I returned to dinner at 6 o'c, after which I went to Niblo's. July 7th. This morning I "bade adieu" to New Yoi-k, leaving at 7 o'c by Steamer on the Hudson River for Albany. The scenery on the Hudson is in many parts magnificent, I certainly enjoyed the trip on this noble river cxceedinglv. On the summit of the banks of this livor not a great distance from Now York, is situated Wenliam Lake, from w^hich is obtained the well known ice that isexported to England. One of the most attractive spots on the Hudson is West Point, at which place is situated the United States Military Acalamy. By 6 o'c Albany hove in sight. }^ the steamer neaved the wharf, it became alive with Paddy cabmen and porters of every age: the former, brandishing their whips, nuide suih a rush on board when we got within jumpinK distance, that one would hiwo thought tins) had come to storm the vessel. I soon lauded and in a little tinn' was 5nug in tlie C(»nKvt»*»8 Hall Hotel. Albany is the 82 capital of the Empire State, and has a populatlun of 70,000. July Sth. Leaving Albany this morning I journey- ed on by railway to Whitehall, where I embarked on board a steamer, and traversed a portion of Lake Cham plain as far as Fort Ticonderoga. I arrived at this latter spot by 1 o'c, when I lunched, and at 8 o'c started in a Stage with several other tourists for Lake George. On the route we passed through the village of Ticonderoga, where I noticed four conspicuous churches. One of them looked neglected, and in reply to a few remarks respecting the state in which the Church was then in, the driver gave his opinion as follows : — "I guess she was a Baptist, but I reckon shedid'ntpay, so they stopped running her. '* On arriving at Lake George, I embarked on the Minne — ha — ha, a beautiful steamer, to proceed to the head of the lake, a distance of 36 miles. The scenery on Lake George is most lovely, its surface is very where dotted with the most romantic looking i slands, and its iliores are encompassed by picturesque lulls, clothed with rich vegetation, and, many of Iheni, rising to a height thai almost entitles them to rank as mountains. By 6 o'c the head of the Lake was reached, and I soon obtained comfortable quarters in the extensive Fort William Henry Hotel ; the views i'rom this elegant building were most exquisite, and the entertainment admirable. .July 9th. The weather yesterday ard to day was ^plpndid. I amused myself this mornin«r for a couple J33 of jbouvs by taking a boat, and enjoying a quiet row on the lake by myself ; this vras quite a treat, nothing disturbed the serenity of the scene, and I cnjoyel.) steam, an