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 CH n IIVNTINO COSirMK. 
 
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 PmiyO A JOVJRNI^Y fX^KAlKUl OF SPOUT LV 
 
 
 BV 
 
 MiiH. MJiKUyiOS ST. MAUH; 
 
 I 
 
 " V" who l.nc thf haunts oi Nsiinnv 
 L«)\T tbf sriiR^liin*' of rl!<> ui(mOv>\v% 
 l.ovs the s}m4/.tt of (he fon-st. 
 f*Hf Jh,. wind RDiojii,' '5''>- htfuU'lWH ; 
 iiJit »hn rmn »b..wm* ami th.. .moyf sttorni, 
 % ' t." mabies Rf gnStit Hvora 
 
 Mn'ir pUisities of plne-trtH«8, 
 
 (luinsler In tho mountains* ! Htnv nti<l llaien 
 
 • « • • ,. 
 
 fore'^ts anfl the pratrifw, 
 ' • grail \akcn of tho noidihmd." 
 
 /.I'lirif'rilitir. 
 
 W*f*t teAP ANO I Lt.U ST RATION'S 
 
 i 
 
 LONDON: 
 JVUn MlJiMAY, ALPKMAKLE HTUK15T 
 
 1890. 
 
\ 
 
 \ 
 
 /I 
 
 
 
 ■•Si'.. ic 
 
 
 
 -'U.- 
 
IMPEESSIONS OP 
 
 A TENDERFOOT 
 
 DURING A JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF SPORT IN 
 THE FAR WEST. 
 
 \\\ 
 
 Mils. ALGKKNOX ST. MAUU. 
 
 "Ye who love tlie luuints of Xjifurf. 
 Love tlio sunshine of the meadow. 
 Love the sh.'ulow of tlie forest. 
 Love tlie wind amontf llie hiunehes ; 
 And the rain shower and the snow storm. 
 And the rushinjr of (jrreat, rivers 
 Through their palisades of pine-trees, 
 And the thunder hi the mountains! Stay and li-<teii 
 
 • • • • « 
 
 From the forests and the prairies, 
 From tlie great lakes of the nortl'iland." 
 
 iMmjfrlloir. 
 
 WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOiiN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, 
 
 1890. 
 
 
Sz8 
 
 143309 
 
 Sor\) s r?-S(?/. •S.f^ 
 
 li 
 
 •! 
 
V 
 
 I 
 
 / 
 
 TO 
 MY DEAR SISTERS, 
 
 WHO A8KKD FOB AU 
 
 ACCOUNT OP OUR WANDERINGS IN THE NORTH WEST. 
 
 THIS UTTM BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY 
 
 f! 
 

. 
 
 THE HOUSE AT FINDLAY CREEK. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 After many months spent in wandering, when the 
 excitement of changing scenes and varied incidents has 
 ended, the traveller naturally wishes to collect the 
 impressions made, and to put them in a tangible form, 
 especially if, as in my case, he has never before been 
 beyond the beaten track. 
 
 Euskin has said that a human soul can do nothing 
 better than "see something, and tell what it saw in a 
 plain way." This I have tried to do, but, from lack of 
 literary skill, the following pages may not suggest to the 
 reader all the wonder and pleasure I experienced among 
 the strange and often beautiful scenes they describe. 
 I would fain have . given more glowing descriptions 
 

 ff 
 
 ym 
 
 INTRODUCTION, 
 
 than those I find in my note-books, of the wondrous cities 
 I saw, full of energetic, industrious people, with many of 
 whom we spent most delightful days; of noble rivers 
 and far-reaching railroads, by which long distances were 
 traversed with ease, and where grand mountains and 
 valleys were all too quickly passed; of great primeval 
 forests which the axe has not yet despoiled; and of 
 quaint, peaceful Indian villages, where sunsets seemed 
 to linger, illuming and transfiguring all the bare and 
 primitive surroundings with soft, deep shadows and a 
 poetry quite their own. How true it is that " one goes 
 from Dan to Beersheba and says it is all barren, and 
 another has seen heaven and angels in the way." To me 
 the r lental exhilaration of fresh scenes and fresh faces was 
 a continual delight, and in recalling those scenes and faces 
 I have been prompted to put memories and notes together, 
 and, with the addition of my few hastily-drawn sketches, 
 I now venture to offer the result to any one who, in 
 lenient mood, will care to accompany me over the many 
 leagues of our travels in this, my first essay in literature. 
 
 I have chosen the title *' Impressions of a Tenderfoot " 
 in order that those who read may not expect great 
 things, a "Tenderfoot" meaning in the "Far-West," 
 a person new to the country, or, must it be con- 
 fessed, a "Greenhorn." Thus regarded, I trust that 
 the contents of this volume may meet with a generous 
 and lenient handling. 
 
 We undertook our journey in search of health, sport, 
 and pleasure. We found these in different degrees, but 
 
 'J, 
 
 I 
 
INTRODUCTION, ^ 
 
 the total far exceeded our expectations, and althongli our 
 visible trophies are less numerous than tliey nii.-ht have 
 been under other conditions, the experiences we had 
 together are a fund of delightful reminiscence for the 
 years to come, when the now willing feet will have to be 
 content to travel nearer and smoother paths. 
 
 S. St. M. 
 
 • 
 
 f 
 
ill 
 
 ^ 
 
 I 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 13 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 The VoyAQE— Land— Quebkc. 
 Liverpool-The Parisicm-Discomforts of travel-St. Pierre "'''"' 
 —A foithless emigrant— Kimouski— Quebec— Falls of 
 Montmorency-Montreal-Toronto-A « slaughter sale » 1 
 
 , CHAPTER ir. 
 Fbom Toronto to North Bay by the Great Lakes. 
 Niagara-Canadian loyalty-The Canadian army-Uututored 
 courtesy-The Canadian Paci6o Railway : their cars and 
 officials 
 
 CHAPTER in. 
 
 Journey to Winnipeg— The Prairie to Calgary. 
 
 Railway discomforts-Chapleau-Railway fare-Lake Superior 
 —Fellow-travellers— Dangers of the ice— Fort William 
 -Winnipeg— Lord Wolseley's Red River expedition— 
 •Ihe prairie-Regina— Blackfoot and Cree Indians- 
 Buffalo — Calgary 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Calgary — Mitford. 
 Life on a lanche— A private railway accident-Cochrane— 
 Gophers— A horse ranche— "The jumping pound"— 
 Customs of the Indians-A rough life-Native flowers 
 --A coal-mine— I take charge of the live stock— A cow 
 boy's outfit-The timber limits— Another railway acci- 
 ^^°' .. 35 
 
 23 
 
xii 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Bakff — Good Pishing in Minnewonka Lake. 
 
 Banff — Up the Bow River — Minnewonka Lake — The Stony 
 Indians — A 281b. trout — The National Park — vis Mori' 
 tana — A good basket of fish — A rough Yorkshireman — 
 Becordsof the Hudson's Bay Co. — LegenJ of Lake Minne- 
 wonka — Hot springs 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 Vancouver — Victoria. 
 
 To Vancouver — Vermilion Lakes— Scaling the Rocky Moun- 
 tains — Golden City — Engineering feats — Glacier house — 
 A missionary in difficulties — Comforts for sick travellers 
 — Chinese labourers — The Fraser River — Yale — Van- 
 couver — Vancouver Island — Victoria — Mr. Dunsmuir — 
 The Indians — Expedition to Cowichan Lake- -A tame 
 bear — Forest trees — Tree grouse, or fool hens — My first 
 camping experience — "Cowichan Hotel" 
 
 PAGE 
 
 52 
 
 66 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Cowichan Lake — Our Hawati Indians — Down the Rapid8. 
 
 Our Hawati Indians — Roughing it — ^Trout fishing — A healthy 
 life — Indians and alcohol — Shooting the rapids — The 
 charms of open air life — Guamachen Hotel 
 
 84 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Victoria — Portland — Notes about Alaska. 
 
 Victoria — Indian rising on the Skena River — The Chinese 
 quarter — Anecdote of the Princess Louise — Voyage to 
 San Francisco— Tacoma — Precocious children — Columbia 
 River — Portland — A series of mishaps — Sacramento 
 Valley — A skunk — Attractions of Alaska — Duncan's 
 mission 
 
 97 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 San Francisco and Chinatown — The Chinese Question. 
 
 San Francisco -Cable cars— Cliff House— The sea lions — 
 ; Mr. Sutro's gardens — Matthew Arnold's Civilization in 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 • •• 
 
 xiu 
 
 PAOB 
 
 America— American popular literature — Chinatown — Jobs 
 houses— Chinese customs— 'American dislike of the Chinese 
 — Baron v. Hubner's opinion — The Chinese question .. 108 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 San Fbanoisco— Monterey — Journey to Vancouveb. 
 
 San Francisco — Cliflf House— Sea bathing — Woodward's 
 Gardens — Mission schools for Chinese children — Occi- 
 dental Hotel — Pamelos — Cliflf House— Monterey — Sea 
 bathing — The Monterey pine — Accident to a horse — 
 Journey to Portland — Discomforts of railway travelling 
 — Puget Sound .. .. .. .. .. .. 123 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Vancouver — Canoeing in Howe Sound. 
 
 Vancouver again — Large trees — ^The timber of British Co- 
 lumbia — Clearing building lots — ^The Indian village — 
 Reckless workmen — Important law-suit — Excursion to 
 the " North Arm " — ^Expedition to Howe Soimd — Camp- 
 ing out — Native bear story — Sunday in camp — "A 
 smudge "— Squawmish Place— Mosquitoes— A long paddle 133 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Glacier House — The Columbia River. 
 
 Start for Glacier House — Jackass Mountain — The Cariboo 
 mines — Auri sacra fames — Surveying the Selkirk Moun- 
 tains — The glaciers — Rev. W. S. Green — Finding Co- 
 lumbus' anchor — Navvies as art patrons — Journey to 
 Golden City — On the Columbia River — The Kootenay 
 Indians — Habits of the miners — A Western man — ^Vicissi- 
 tudes of life — At Windermere— A race for a claim .. 146 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Sam's Landing — ^The Trail Tp Findlay Creek — The Ponies. 
 
 Sam's landing — Native ponies — Geological terraces — Bunch 
 grass — Findlay Creek — Fishing — Vitality of bear — Kettle 
 River — " Panning out " gold — Deserted log-houses — Ex- 
 travagance of miners — Trip to Canal Flat — Startled mule 
 teams — Life at Findlay Creek — A horse thief .. .. 162 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAOB 
 
 II 
 
 i 
 
 176 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Fishing — Miners — Aloebnon's Diart. 
 Start for a hunting expedition — Amateur doctoring — An after- 
 noon sport — Miners' opinion of English ladies — A reti- 
 cent Indian — Miners as literary critics — A day's wash- 
 ing — White squaws — The camp at Skookum-Chuck — 
 A stampede — A grey wolf 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 In Search of better Sport — Life at Findla'x Creek — Good- 
 bye — Days on the Trail. 
 
 In search of better sport — Diflaculties of mining — Capla — 
 Prairie Indians — An Austrian hunting party — The stage 
 waggon — ^Intense cold — Good-bye to Findlay Creek — 
 The force of habit .. .. .. .. .. .. 189 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Brewer's "Stopping-House" — Hot Springs — Indian Women 
 
 — From Windermere to Golden City. 
 Mrs. Brewer on manners — Gold nuggets — Hot Springs — Indian 
 squaws — Sick travellers — The Windermere Hctel — 
 « Bull's Ball "—The " Mai on "—Wild fowl— Shushwaps 
 — Wheelhouse as my bedroom — Dutch Pete — American 
 whist .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 200 
 
 CHAPTER XVll. 
 
 Notes about Early French Settlers — Hunting in the 
 
 Mountains. 
 
 Banff Springs Hciel — Early French settlers — Extracts from 
 letters — Trade as the only field of action — Prohibition 
 of spirituous liquors — Algernon's diary — Horse Thief 
 Creek — A bad shot — A narrow escape — Heavy snow- 
 storm — The tracks of a grizzly — Whisky Hill — A deep 
 cafion — Tepe's of Shushwaps — A rough trail — A Yankee 
 editor — A rat hunt .. .. .. .. ,. 214 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 The Prairie — Winnipeg — Moose-Hunting — Manitoba. 
 The prairie — Winnipeg — Indian characteristics — A great 
 English horse — The prairie in winter — House .' Legis- 
 lature — Monsieur Narquet — Indian curios — Old Fort 
 Garry — Hudson's Bay stores — The last buffalo — Moose- 
 hunting — More about moose .. .. .. .. 236 
 
 I 
 
 *^ ^**— ^•*. •k -*« 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 Life in a Ldmbek-Camp. 
 
 Life in a lumber-camp-Intorior of our tent-Food-Camn 
 birds-Sauteaux Indians-Whitehead the engineer-A 
 Uttle brown squirrel— The foreman's chest— A bear story 
 ~btream.driving-15° below zero-Buccaro Jimmy- 
 Sunday in camp-Our tent on fire-Bret Harte's descrip- 
 tzons— The foreman's letter .. 
 
 XV 
 
 I'AOB 
 
 247 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Homeward Bound. 
 
 Homeward bound-A dreary landscape-Library at Ottawa 
 -Chaudi^re Falls-A visit to the Museum-Yukon 
 Kiver- American hospitality - Tiffany's-Pea-nuts- 
 Jlome again 
 
 ^ .. .. 269 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 ■ Cii 
 
 Our Hunting Costume 
 
 A Blackfoot Indian 
 
 Indian Tep;68 on the Prairie 
 
 '"he Bow River 
 
 The Columbia River .. 
 
 Windermere, British Columbia 
 
 FiNDLAY Creek 
 
 Map 
 
 • • 
 
 • • .. 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 • • 
 
 To face page 32 
 
 •• 
 
 »> 
 
 „ 48 
 
 
 >» 
 
 » 64 
 
 
 »» 
 
 » 154 
 
 
 11 
 
 » 160 
 
 
 >i 
 
 » 178 
 
 
 • 
 
 At end 
 
f 
 
 
4 
 
 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Voyage— -Land — Quebec. 
 
 « 
 
 " For we are all, like swimmers in the sea, 
 Poised on the top of a huge wave of fate 
 Which hangs uncertain to which side to fall ; 
 And whether it will heave us up to land, 
 Or whether it will roll us out to sea, 
 Back out to sea, to the deep waves of death, 
 We know not, and no search will make as know. 
 Only. the event will teach us in that hour." 
 
 Matthew Arnold. 
 
 May 2nd. — What a glorious evening it was, our last 
 for some time in dear old England. What brilliant 
 effects of sun and cloud ! the first pale shades of green 
 in the budding trees harmonizing well with the russet 
 browns of the bare pastures and wooded hollows. 
 
 It was nearly dark when we reached Liverpool; the 
 great river, flowing silently between huge buildings with 
 their tall chimneys, seemed ghostlike and weird, while 
 innumerable glimmering lights from both houses and 
 
 B 
 
^^^^m 
 
 a IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 ships helped to add a mysterious attraction to the scene 
 through tlie grey mists of an early summer night. 
 
 What endless thoughts were mine ! — of kind friends 
 left behind, of pleasant memories; what hopes for the 
 future, and through all, what anticipations of seeing great 
 and unknown lands beyond the wide seas ! 
 
 To Algernon these pleasures were not new, for he had 
 trodden many of these "happy hunting-grounds" before; 
 still, he was keen to go again, and no one understands nor 
 appreciates more than he the freedom of life in the Far 
 West. 
 
 May 2>rd. — ^We left Liverpool at 4 o'clock on a steam 
 tug from the docks, to join the Allan Line's best steamer, 
 the Par Ulan. Half an hour on a very rough sea was 
 most trying; the passengers were crowded together like 
 sheep in a pen, with all the baggage huddled round 
 anyhow, the sea sweeping the deck of the tug every few 
 minutes in a way which made it difficult to keep dry ; thus 
 we reached the steamer, and found some of the passengers, 
 who had been wiser than ourselves, comfortably settled, 
 having embarked before she left the dock. We reached 
 Loch Foyle at 8 the following morning, and there had 
 to await the arrival of the mails. 
 
 The Parisian is a fine steamer of 5300 tons, and Captain 
 Smith, her commander, is a favourite with every one. 
 
 We had already many emigrants on board. Here more 
 joined, making their number over 800 ; cabin passengers, 
 intermediate and crew made another 200. 
 
'.] 
 
 DISCOMFORTS OF TRA VEL. 
 
 Iin 
 
 Ire 
 
 May 5th. — After leaving Loch Foyle, we had rough 
 weather, and my experiences resulted in no literary 
 
 suggestions. 
 
 All voyages are alike in so far that they have a 
 beginning and an end; therefore, being a bad sailor 
 myself, I intend to say as little about this part of my 
 travels as possible. To see the world, one must become 
 callous to personal comfort ; travelling does all men 
 good; they find their level, come in contact with the 
 enterprise of others, and see life from many different 
 points of view ; and the results of wandering to and fro 
 upon the earth are often garnered stores of wisdom. 
 
 How true are Laurence Oliphant's ideas on this subject ! 
 " The proverb that a rolling stone gathers no moss ^'s, like 
 " most proverbs, neater as an epigram than as a truth, in so 
 " far as its application to human existence is concerned. 
 " Even if by ' moss * is signified hard cash, commercial and 
 " industrial enterprises have undergone such a change since 
 " the introduction of steam and electricity, that the men 
 " who have made most money in these days are often those 
 " who have been flying about from one quarter of the world 
 " to another in its successful pursuit — taking contracts, 
 " obtaining concessions, forming companies, or engaging in 
 " speculations, the profitable nature of which has been 
 " revealed to them in the course of their travels. But 
 " there may be said to be other kinds of moss besides 
 " money, of which the human rolling stone gathers more 
 " than the stationary one. He meets with adventures, he 
 " acquires new views, he undergoes experiences, and gains 
 
 u 2 
 
I i 
 
 4 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " a general knowledge of the world, the whole crystallising 
 " in after life into a rich fund of reminiscences, which 
 " becomes the moss that he has gathered." 
 
 TItursday, 10th. — A glorious day. A school of whales, 
 some icebergs, and several Newfoundland fishing 
 schooners have been sighted. Owing to the Straits of 
 Belleisle being full of ice, our captain has been obliged 
 to enter the Gulf of St. Lawrence by Cape Breton, which 
 will take two days longer. 
 
 Two years ago the Atlantic steamers to Quebec were 
 delayed seven days at the Straits of Belleisle, wedged in 
 by ice floes on every side. The cold and discomfort 
 experienced by the passengers were very great, as the 
 provisions did not hold out. 
 
 The Sardinian that same year was nineteen days 
 making Quebec, the ship getting among icebergs and 
 thick fog. 
 
 The first land seen this morning, the Island of St. 
 Pierre, belongs to France, and has a French marquis as 
 Governor. It is an important place so far as the fishing 
 industries are concerned, and aU sailors in the French 
 navy are obliged to serve a sort of apprenticeship with 
 the iishing-boats in tliese seas before joining the regular 
 navy. At the present time, the French are giving us 
 some trouble, claiming fifteen miles of coast as their right 
 on the shores of Newfoundland in connection with these 
 fisheries. 
 
 Great excitement on deck at a supposed line of icebergs. 
 
I.] 
 
 IN SIGHT OF LAND, 
 
 the owners of telescopes and field-glasses vying with each 
 other in their eagerness to discover what they might or 
 might not be. After some suspense and on nearer 
 inspection the supposed line of icebergs proved to be the 
 coast of Newfoundland, the high cliffs of which were 
 white with snow. Before evening land was viewed on 
 both sides of the ship, Cape Hay on the right. Cape Breton 
 on the left. 
 
 As one gazes on the horizon out at sea, it seems strange 
 to a novice that with such a boundless extent one can 
 really see little more than from six to eight miles. When 
 a ship is coming into view, the upper spars are visible at 
 a much greater distance, being naturally above the limited 
 horizon of the sea ; for the same reason, land can often be 
 seen at a great distance, and if the country be mountain- 
 ous as far as forty or fifty miles. 
 
 Some years ago. Captain Smith was asked to take 
 charge of a young woman who was going out to be 
 married in Canada. The lover had sent £120 for h^r 
 outfit and expenses. Before half the voyage was over 
 the young woman came to the Captain, and told him she 
 had changed her mind, having met a " new " man on 
 the steamer whom she liked better, and him she intended 
 to marry. Protests were useless ; she married her fellow- 
 passenger the day the ship arrived at Quebec. The 
 rejected suitor had only an interview with the Captain to 
 console him for the loss of his money and his bride. 
 
 May \Wi. — Glorious sunshine, which made one forget 
 
'^^ 
 
 fy IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 the trials of the early part of the voyage. At 8 A.M. we 
 passed the Island of (laspe, and after that saw the 
 Canadian coast more clearly ; black, bare, and rugged it 
 all looked, some scattered fir and pine trees standing out 
 plainly against the cold-looking rocks, the deep gullies of 
 which, still full of snow-drifts, made the scene appear 
 most wintry. As we steamed along, small fishing-villages 
 came in view, with cultivated patches of land here and 
 there. The emigrants could not conceal their disappoint- 
 ment with their first glimpse of Canada; but with its 
 marvellous resources, doubtless in a few years their ideas 
 w^ill change. First impressions are not always to be 
 trusted. 
 
 On arriving at Rimouski the pilot and health officers 
 came on board ; here we were delayed for nearly an hour, 
 one of the emigrants refusing to be vaccinated. However, 
 on being threatened with quarantine for six weeks, his 
 scruples were overcome, and he submitted to the operation. 
 The Canadian laws are very strict regarding vaccination, 
 as a few years ago they had a terrible epidemic of small 
 pox in Montreal and Quebec. 
 
 At this place disembarked two very rough-looking 
 lumbermen, brothers, who were among our cabin passen- 
 gers, returning from Belfast, where they had been to 
 receive money left to them. They had inherited £80,000 ; 
 neither of them could write his name. One was a 
 hunchback, who had worked for twenty-eight years as 
 cook in a lumber camp. So does the wheel of Fortune 
 turn! 
 
'.] 
 
 QUEBEC, 
 
 Sunday, May VMh. — 
 
 " *Ti8 always morning aotnewhere, and above 
 Tho awakening uontineuts from shore to shore 
 Somewhere the birds are singing evermore." 
 
 Pleasant morning thoughts are these of the American 
 poet and singer. 
 
 On deck at 6.30 to see the far-famed view of Quebec 
 from the St. Lawrence. Alas ! the morning was wet and 
 misty ; we passed the Falls of Montmorency, and ended 
 our voyage at Point Levis, crossing to Quebec in the ferry 
 boat ; but even from that shrouded glimpse of the Heights 
 of Abraham we realized how few were the scenes that 
 could rival the incomparable beauty of that ancient 
 fortress and quaint old city towering high above the noble 
 river, of which all Canadians are so justly proud. 
 
 May lAth. — Quebec is an old-fashioned place, with a 
 French-looking and, for the most part, a French-speaking 
 population. Even the houses in the lower quarter of the 
 town have a foreign look about them, with their green 
 outside shutters and their tin roofs, while over the shop 
 doors still hang quaint old French signs. The carriages 
 chiefly used are French caleches, the models of which 
 doubtless came from France during the reign of Louis XIV., 
 wlien the impoverished gentilhomme became the un- 
 willing emigrant; odd-looking vehicles they are, these 
 high two-wheeled carriages on their loose springs, carrying 
 two persons inside, and the driver perched on his little 
 seat just above his he le, but admirable and easy for 
 
 • ••-^♦>^.»'* •■•*•'■* •* -■■ — — *'»*..'*K^*-- 
 
J 
 
 \ fi 
 
 8 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 going over very rough roads ; outside the town these were 
 very rough, owing to the lateness of the spring, the frost 
 not being yet out of the ground, and great banks of snow 
 still lying on either side. 
 
 Quebec has never gone ahead like other cities in the 
 Dominion, and is now rather taking a retrograde movement, 
 the result of the decline in her timber trade, which never 
 recovered the effects of a strike some years ago, when, 
 owing to a rise in wages, most of the lumber business went 
 to Montreal and Three Rivers. Large fortunes were 
 made in Quebec in the lumber trade at one time ; those 
 days are past, and the inhabitants are no longer the 
 wealthy citizens they were. 
 
 We visited the Falls of Montmorency. An introduction 
 to Mrs. P. proved useful; she was most kind, and we 
 followed her down a long flight of rather slippery wooden 
 steps to a summer-house half-way below the falls, where 
 we saw a wild rush of snow water surging with irresistible 
 force over the high rocks, it being here the river takes its 
 last mad plunge into the St. Lawrence. 
 
 The old gateways of the town no longer exist, having 
 been demolished by some Vandal mayor of Quebec, who 
 built " nice new ones " in their places, thereby, alas ! 
 destroying much of the historical interest of the city. 
 
 We spent two. hours at the citadel, walking round the 
 fortifications. A magnificent landscape extended far 
 beneath us : the great St. Lawrence wending its way 
 majestically to the sea; the country dotted over with 
 villages and churches all along the river's course ; opposite 
 
I.] 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 }^ 
 
 Ir 
 
 n 
 
 to Quebec the rising town of Point Levis ; further down 
 on the same side as Quebec, Beauport, and further still 
 the spray rising from the Falls of i>.*"ontinorency ; and as 
 the river receded further into the sunshine and the mist, 
 losing itself at length in the far distance, this glorious 
 panorama suggested one of Turner's grandest effects of 
 sunshine and cloud. 
 
 We left Quebec this afternoon, making out first journey 
 in a Pullman car. In the districts round the town, we 
 passed through large tracts of country cut up into small 
 farms ; the people have lived on them thus from genera- 
 tion to generation, bettering their condition but little, 
 selling their hay crops, and growing all else they require 
 on tlieir own bits of land. Further west much is achieved 
 by toil and thrift, but these old settlers seem to have little 
 idea of progression. 
 
 May \Wi, Hotel Windsor, Montreal. — A fine hotel, 
 fitted with every possible convenience. We paid $G per 
 day each person; this included everything except wine. 
 We had an excellent suite of rooms, with a bath-room 
 attached, and could order what we liked in the dining- 
 room provided it was mentioned on the long " menu " 
 for the day. Everything was detailed on this " menu," 
 beginning with breads and rolls of all kinds. 
 
 Our introductions were not of much use to us here, as 
 we found that Sir G. Stephen and Sir Donald Smith 
 were both away at the Sault Ste. Marie. 
 
 We drove round the mountain, and from thexS had 
 
i 
 
 ''■ 
 
 / 
 
 :; 
 
 II 
 
 I 
 
 ii H 
 
 
 lo JMFJiESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 magnificent views of the river, town, and surrounding land- 
 scape. Our way home took us through tlie beautiful 
 cemetery, the trees all bursting into leaf, fitting emblems 
 of the hope for those lying there so silently. A fine 
 monument, presented by the citizens of Montreal, marks 
 the remains of all firemen killed on duiy in tliis city ; the 
 dangers of their calling are much greater here than in 
 England, owing to the large number of wooden houses. 
 
 This place is much changed since Algernon was here in 
 1870. The Canadipn Pacific Eailway station stands where 
 he remembers the old Main Guard to have been ; he also 
 pointed out a small hospital in Notre Dame Street which 
 was the mess-house of the 60th Eifles. The town has 
 enormously extended since that time, there being a great 
 number of excellent shops: a dollar seems to go little 
 further than a shilling does at home. Bought some 
 blankets for campin;^^'; and travelling in out jf the way 
 places. It is always desirable to have one's own, as at 
 any of the small stopping-houses and hotels there is risk 
 in using those provided : mountain fever can be carried 
 in this way. 
 
 H 
 
 Queen's Hotel, Toronto, May IWi, — This town is the 
 seat of a University, has a cathedral, many fine churches, 
 and other large public buildings. 
 
 The hotel i« an old-fashioned plpce, the cooking rather 
 messy ; thj work is done by negro servants ; those who 
 waited at table showed us to our places with the greatest 
 deference, but once there they did not mind how long they 
 
1 
 
 1.1 
 
 TORONTO. 
 
 IX 
 
 kept us waiting for our dinner, and when they did bring 
 it, dashed the dishes down in front of us as if they were 
 conferring a favour, and dealing a pack of cards; they 
 slipped about with their great flat feet, reminding us of 
 ducks by their movements. Negroes detest being called 
 niggers; they prefer being designated coloured men — 
 coloured gentlemen still better. 
 
 Buckwheat cakes and maple syrup I tasted here for the 
 first time ; both were excellent. 
 
 Wine was very expensive at all these hotels ; no light 
 claret procurable under $1 a bottle ; champagnes were as 
 much as $14 a bottle. Most people drank tea, coffee, or 
 iced water during lunch or dinner. We were here offered 
 butter- milk ; this I declined. At the " Bars " of the hotels 
 cocktails and all kinds of drinks can be procured at from 
 10 to 25 cents each. 
 
 io 
 t 
 
 May 21s^. — Dined at Government House with Sir Alex- 
 ander Campbell and his charming little daughter Miss 
 Marjorie ; we saw many pretty women while in Canada, 
 but she was quite the prettiest. Afterwards went to a 
 " Fancy Fair," in aid of an Art Institute which the people 
 are anxious to build, so as to have a suitable place for 
 their annual exhibition of pictures by Canadian artists. 
 In this scheme both Lord Lansdowne, who was the late 
 Governor-General, and Lady Lansdowne took much 
 interest. Algernon met here many old friends, who gave 
 us a kind welcome to Toronto. 
 
 I was told that although clothing and all imported goods 
 
i\m 
 
 i;r 
 
 f a IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 TTT 
 
 ;! I 
 
 were expensive, the prices of bread, meat, and other pro- 
 visions were extremely reasonable. House-rent, however, 
 was high, and I was somewhat amused to hear that certain 
 acquaintances Algernon asked after had gone to Europe for 
 economy. People who were furnishing a house here, told 
 us that they had many difficulties to contend with ; that 
 only very plain furniture of a regulation pattern was to be 
 procured in Canada, and that before duty and carriage 
 were paid on anything they obtained from England or 
 New York, nearly 60 per cent, on the cost of the whole 
 was charged. 
 
 A " Slaughter Sale " of dry goods or a " Slaughter Sale 
 of Babies* Buggies " were startling announcements over 
 shop ^vindows ; these were, I found, the terms used for 
 clearing sales, dry goods, meaning silks, muslins, 8lc. ; 
 babies' buggies, an Americanism for children's perambu- 
 lators. No doubt often one word is as good as another, 
 but the unusual always attracts attention. 
 
II.] 
 
 ( 13 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 From Toronto to North Bay by the Great Lakes. 
 
 "Ye who love 
 Tlie shaggy forests, fierce delights 
 Of sounding waterfalls, of heights 
 That hang like broken moons above, 
 With brows of pine that brush the sun. 
 Believe and follow." 
 
 Toronto, May 2'ird. — A glorious day for visiting 
 Niagara. We left the hotel soon after 7 a.m., and took 
 our places in a first-class railway car. Into this tumbled 
 all sorts and conditions of men, and it was not long 
 before I realized the fact that the first class in this 
 country is on a par with the third at home, there 
 being no second or third class carriages used ; and unless 
 places can be taken in a sleeping or drawing-room car, 
 one is sometimes obliged to travel with the roughest 
 people. 
 
 We passed through a good farming country. All along 
 the shores of Lake Ontario the land is in an excellent 
 state of cultivation, but many burnt stumps are seen 
 among the growing crops. How to get rid of these 
 hindrances to husbandry is a ditticult problem. Labour 
 
', 1^ 
 
 14 niFRESSWNS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 is so valuable that time cannot be spared to dig them out 
 at once, so a few are removed year by year by burning 
 and grubbing. 
 
 It would be impossible for me to describe the unspeak- 
 able vastness and grandeur of Niagara, but as our visit 
 there was part of our pleasant Canadian travels, I cannot 
 pass it by without briefly giving my impressions. 
 
 As is well known, the Falls are best seen from the 
 Canadian side. Goat Island divides the two falls. Clouds 
 of spray and the noise of the great rushing waters were 
 the first glimpse and sounds that met us. The American 
 Fall is a vast volume of water, thundering down in a 
 glittering cascade of white foam. But the Horse Shoe 
 Fall ! The memory of this will live through my lifetime. 
 There we saw seas of bright green waters rolling over into 
 the great gulf below. The majesty and immensity over- 
 whelmed me. I\i presence ofthis mighty work of the great 
 Creator, all — all seemed to sink into insignificance. 
 The ills of life, the shortness of it, the disappointments 
 and the joys — ail were forgotten. We felt as if we had 
 had a glimpse into the unseen, where strange forms 
 moved in the great wreaths of mist and foam, and gleams 
 of sunshine through the mysterious haze transfigured the 
 face of the waters. 
 
 The surrounding woods were now full of song, — 
 
 
 " And birds in blended gold and blue, 
 Were thick and sweet as swarming bees ; 
 And sang as if in Paradise, 
 And all their Paradise was spring." 
 
II.] 
 
 N.TAGARA. 
 
 n 
 
 When we first ai-rived in Canada they had not yet 
 returned from the south. Now it interests me to watch 
 them, as many of them are those I have not seen before : 
 the golden oriole, waxwing, woodpeckers of different kinds, 
 canaries and humming-birds — all of brighter hues than 
 our familiar English birds. Even the thrush has here 
 borrowed from the robin, and appears with a red breast. 
 
 Goat Island is on the American side. As we re-crossed 
 the suspension bridge which unites Canada and America, 
 men were busily employed in widening the bridge, and 
 while I had to ask for the assistance of a hand, I saw 
 men standing on the girders in perilous positions, 
 driving great bolts home, apparently as much at their 
 ease as if they had been on land, instead of appearing, 
 as they did to me, suspended in mid air, with the rushing 
 river below them.* 
 
 The hideous mills and glaring hotels, the tawdry shops, 
 the noisy cab-drivers who implore to be hired, and lastly, 
 the people who offer to be guides when you want none of 
 them — all these things harshly jar upon my mind at a 
 time when I would fain go silently on my way, and 
 disappointed me in our visit to Niagara. There are many 
 unnecessary ways of seeing the Falls to which the unsus- 
 pecting traveller becomes a victim, which add little to his 
 pleasure. If willing to go, he is taken down damp and 
 slippery steps, or " elevators," clothed in oilskins, to see 
 the Falls from below, and hurried in a wild rush through 
 spi..y which completely soaks him : confused in mind and 
 * This bridge has been carried away by a recent storm. 
 
?i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 x6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 disturbed in body, he is thankful to emerge, thoroughly 
 frightened, from what has appeared to him a most 
 hazardous experience. 
 
 The best way, if one wishes to see the Falls from below, 
 is to embark in Tlie Maid of the Mist, a small steamer 
 which runs up the river almost under the Horse Shoe 
 Fall, looking from above like a cockle-shell bobbing up 
 and down in the water. 
 
 Toronto, May 24^^.— This is the Queen's birthday. The 
 loyalty of the Canadians should make England blush. 
 They are holding high holiday to-day because of it, and 
 rejoicing most heartily, the whole town being en fete ; and 
 from almost every house a flag is flying, and the people, 
 dressed in their holiday attire, are crowding down the 
 principal streets. 
 
 All here seem to have the deepest affection for the 
 mother country, and even those families who have been in 
 Canada for several generations appear to have this feeling 
 of love for the country of their forefathers in an extra- 
 ordinary degree. Mr. Goldwin Smith, who has taken up 
 his residence among these good people, may have a few 
 followers, for he is an eloquent and able man, although 
 his mind appears to have become warped and his sym- 
 pathies alienated in a manner which many cannot under- 
 stand. The handing over of Canada to the Americans, 
 which he is perpetually advocating, can only meet 
 with the universal condemnation it deserves among a 
 loyal and upright people like the Canadians, who love 
 
 
II.] 
 
 CANADIAN LOYALTY. 
 
 17 
 
 If 
 
 their country and their Queen, and who hope to see the 
 bonds tliat unite Canada to the mother country consoli- 
 dated and strengthened as time goes on ; whenever 
 (in the words of General Lord Wolseley) "God in His 
 mercy is pleased to send us a statesman wise enough and 
 great enough to federate and consolidate into one united 
 British empire all the many lands and provinces which 
 acknowledge Queen Victoria as their sovereign." * 
 
 Most Canadians met in society have often been in 
 England, and seem to know it better than their own 
 country, for when they wish to travel they generally 
 cross the Atlantic. 
 
 The Governor of Ontario, Sir Alexander Campbell, 
 asked us to join his party for the races. The course lies on 
 pretty undulating ground close to the shore of the lake. 
 The meeting was held under the rules of the Ontario 
 Jockey Club, and no betting was allowed. Tlie Governor 
 
 • The late Eight Hon. W. E. Forster, in an address to the Philo- 
 sophical Institution of Edinburgh in 1875, says : — 
 
 "I believe that our union with our Colonies will not be severed, 
 because I believe that we and they will more and more prize this 
 union, and become convinced that it can only be preserved by looking 
 forward to association on equal terras. In other words, I believe our 
 colonial empire will last, because no longer striving to rule our Colonies 
 as dependencies when they have become strong enough to be indepen- 
 dent. We shall welcome them as our partners in a common and 
 rising Empire." What more popular cry at present than the preserva- 
 tion of our colonial empire ? Some twelve years ago, it is true, a 
 voice from Oxford declared this empire to be an illusion for the future 
 and a danger for the present ; but Professor Gold win Smith has gone 
 to Canada, and his eloquent arguments for disruption have as little 
 convinced the Canadians as ourselves. .. . -. .. u.. .-: ; 
 
 '\/9 
 
1 
 
 1 1 
 
 [I 
 
 7 
 
 tl' 
 
 •} ' 
 
 I! 
 
 i8 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 and his party were treated with the greatest deference, 
 and his carriages were the only ones allowed to drive up 
 the course. Opposite the winning-post Sir Alexander 
 Campbell had a charming box ; in this we sat for most of 
 the afternoon. There were some nice young horses, but 
 the riding was very bad, so much so that one or two 
 that ought to have been winners got into the second place. 
 The crowd was quiet and orderly, two mounted police 
 being sufficient to keep the course, and doing it extremely 
 well ; each of them was provided with a cutting whip, 
 wliich they seemed to use pretty freely among the crowd. 
 I thought of the questions which would be asked in the 
 House, and of the rage of an English mob, if such a thing 
 was even hinted at there. 
 
 Canada will soon possess a fine army of its own ; 
 the regulars are a splendid body of men, and besides 
 these it has 40,000 Militia and Volunteers; in case 
 of emergency all men over eighteen are liable to be called 
 out for military service. This law was made at the time 
 when the English troops were withdrawn. 
 
 The Police at Toronto equal the London Police in 
 smartness and civility, and are dressed in exactly the 
 same way. When Sir Alexander Campbell was Post- 
 master-General he had the Postmen also dressed like those 
 in England ; until that time they had worn the same 
 uniform as the American Postmen, whic'i is ugly and 
 unworkmanlike. 
 
 I have had several long and interesting conversations 
 about the wheat-growing capacity of the country : here, as 
 
II.] 
 
 UNTUTORED COURTESY. 
 
 19 
 
 elsewhere, opinions differ much, but it is an undisputed 
 fact that since 1882 there have only been two abundant 
 harvests, that of last year being one of them. It is 
 against the profitable working of the laud that the season 
 is so short and labour so expensive ; and even if farmers 
 get emigrants direct from the ships, they seldom remain 
 with them long ; the land fever is so strong, each wants 
 to have a " holding " for himself, and this can still be 
 obtained for a nominal sum. 
 
 Further west 160 acres can be bought for $10, 
 
 Colonel S , with whom we dined last night, told us 
 
 a curious story : When he came out to America, nearly 
 twenty-five years ago, he was asked to take charge of a 
 
 young lady on a journey from the States. Miss T 
 
 was exceedingly beautiful. After they started, a Californian 
 gold-digger got into the same car ; he was a tall, rough - 
 looking fellow, dressed in the usual Western fashion, with 
 buckskin shirt, and trousers with fringes down the seams, 
 long boots, and a broad-brimmed hat ; he was armed with 
 a revolver and a bowie knife, stuck into his belt. He 
 
 sat down opposite Miss T , and stared at her in a 
 
 manner which greatly annoyed Colonel S . Several 
 
 times during the journey he was on the point of getting 
 up and expostulating ; as he expressed it : " It made my 
 English blood boil to see the insolence of the fellow ; " 
 
 each time, however. Miss T prevented his doing so 
 
 by whispering to him to sit still — that it did not in the 
 least matter to her. 
 
 They got out at the next station ; the man followed them : 
 
 c 2 
 
' -'y 
 
 20 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 ^' 
 
 \ If 
 
 ■ ( 
 
 on taking their seats again, the Californian, with the air of 
 a prince, took off his hat, and feeling in his pocket, brought 
 out a large nugget of gold, which he threw into the lap of 
 the astonished girl, saying : " Heaven bless your pretty 
 face ; it's the prettiest face I've ever seen on God's earth. 
 
 Keep that in remembrance of Jack ," and was gone. 
 
 Colonel S told me he felt sure had he made the 
 
 slightest pr( '>est the man would have shot him dead ; that 
 
 it was only the calmness and coolness of Miss T that 
 
 prevented this. He also added that, after twenty-five 
 years' experience of the country and its people, he saw 
 that what he had at the time mistaken for the most 
 insulting conduct was in reality an act of untutored and 
 involuntary homage to a beautiful woman. 
 
 I 
 
 May 25th. — Often in a journey plans and routes are 
 changed, and a traveller may be unable to avail himself of 
 introductions ; but arriving as a stranger, if provided with 
 letters to the right people it helps to make things much 
 pleasanter, and he hears and sees many things wliich 
 otherwise he would miss ; and great trouble is generally 
 taken in showing strangers all that i.3 worth seeing. This 
 we found frequently in our own case. 
 
 h 
 
 May 26th. — Said good-bye to Toronto and to my maid, 
 as, after duly considering the matter, we found that it was 
 impossible to take her with us. Travelling ^vith a maid 
 in this country is more trouble than can be imagined, as, 
 except in the big towns, no accommodation is provided, 
 
".] 
 
 C. p. Ji. CO:S CAHS, 
 
 21 
 
 and she is consequently always in the way ; fortunately 
 I was able to send mine to stay with her aunt at Chicago. 
 She was regretful, but I felt I had acted wisely. 
 
 The lake route to Port Arthur is still closed on account 
 of the ice in Thunder Bay. This chain of lakes is so 
 immense that little land is seen during the voyage ; and 
 on Lake Huron especially tremendous storms frequently 
 occur. For this and other reasons we had decided 
 to join the Canadian Pacific Railway by a branch line 
 from here, which takes us in one night's journey to a 
 station called No^th Bay, the junction where we had 
 to wait for the mail train from Montreal. After about an 
 hour there we were glad at last to find ourselves really on 
 our way to the Eocky Mountains. 
 
 The C.P.R. Co., as it is always called out here, have 
 made their "Cars " as near perfection as is possible ; nothing 
 approaching their luxury and comfort is to be found on 
 the American Continent — so many old travellers assured 
 me. The sleeping cars which are used on long journeys 
 have high-backed seats for two persons facing each other ; 
 at night these seats are arranged as beds, an upper berth 
 being let down from above. There is a ladies* dressing- 
 room at the end of the car but so many have to share 
 this that it ceases to be a luxury. The most comfortable 
 way when travelling is to engage the " State-room," which 
 accommodates two persons ; there being only one of these 
 on each car, it is not" always to be procured, sometimes 
 being reserved several weeks before. 
 
 The railway officials are civil and obliging, and any 
 
^mt 
 
 22 IMFEESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 little service they may do is not from mercenary motives, 
 as they always seem to think themselves quite one's equal. 
 Eich Americans and others will, however, soon introduce 
 the odious tipping system ; the negro porter who has 
 charge of the sleeper already looks out for his little present 
 at the end of the journey : he does all he is asked on 
 the cars, and is a great adept at making beds, when the 
 time comes for all the passengers to turn in ; but it makes 
 it difficult to judge where to give and where not when the 
 greatest offence is sometimes taken at the offer of muney. 
 These negro servants of the company are dressed in a 
 serviceable grey serge uniform with brass buttons and 
 cap to match ; in the morning and evening when making 
 the beds they wear white cotton jackets ; they are always 
 clean and tidy. I do not know much about negroes, but 
 they look cleaner than white men would doing the same 
 work, and they never appear fussed or overheated. 
 
 t 
 
III.] 
 
 ( 23 ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Journey to Winnipeg — The Prairie — To Cvlgary, 
 
 " 'Tis with our judgments as our watches, none 
 Go just alike, yet each believes his own." 
 
 We passed to-day through large tracts of cold and bleak- 
 looking forest ; here and there a nirror-like lake or moun- 
 tain stream enlivened the scene. It is only after having 
 been in the rugged vast wilderness of natural forest that 
 we realise for the first time the enormous difficulties 
 the settler has to overcome in making a farm-steading 
 out of this chaos. 
 
 Settlers' shanties are to bo seen from time to time as one 
 goes along : at every station where we stopped groups of 
 men were waiting to see the train pass ; it was evidently 
 the excitement of the day. The sight of new faces, the 
 hope of seeing a friend pass by, or the chance of hearing a 
 few words of news, are trivial events which have a 
 wonderful power in a country where the requirements of 
 the settler's life compel men to live apart froir^ their 
 fellows. 
 
 I really believe it is a kind dispensation of Providence 
 
h 
 
 I 
 
 
 W 
 
 ' j 
 
 ! I 
 
 m 
 
 :l 
 
 t I 
 
 Sjlii 
 
 24 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 that they have to work so hard ; and hence only a few 
 realise and regret that there is little or no time for mental 
 culture. 
 
 May 29<A. — The constant noise in the train is very 
 tiring, but as the pace is much slower than in England, it 
 does not shake in the same way. Chapleau was the 
 first place we saw this morning : we passed through a 
 country of rocks and burnt woods, where iorest fires seemed 
 to have cleared out every living thing ; but there is such a 
 wealth of timber in the North-West that little is thought 
 of fires, nor are the precautions to prevent them insisted 
 on in the way they ought to be. When a forest fire 
 begins it may go for miles, leaving nothing but complete 
 desolation beliind it. Everywhere one sees the ravages of 
 past fires, whole tracts of forest with only the blackened 
 and burnt stumps of trees remaining. As the country 
 gets settled up no doubt these things will improve. 
 
 Near Messanabie, where Dog Lake is crossed, a short 
 portage connects the waters flowing southwards into Lake 
 Superior with those flow'ng northwards into Hudson's 
 Bay. This is the old Dog Lake route by which many of 
 the stores for the Hudson's Bay forts in the North-West 
 went up, and by which the furs were sent down. 
 
 Dining cars are attached to the trains : these cars run 
 300-mile sections, returning the same distance the follow- 
 ing day. The food provided is simple and good ; supplies 
 come chiefly from Winnipeg and Montreal, but the 
 conductors have the power to buy fish, poultry, and what- 
 
 *il" 
 
III.] 
 
 RAILWAY FARE. 
 
 25 
 
 ever become necessary, at any of the stations that they 
 pass. At one station, for instance, two Indians brought 
 some wild ducks for sale, which our conductor bought. 
 
 Many people travelling do not care to enter the dining- 
 car except for breakfast and dinner, as the latter is seldom 
 later in the day than 6 o'clock. 
 
 The following is one day's menu, for which we were 
 charged 75 cents, or about three shillings per meal : 
 
 Breakfast. 
 
 Fruits, PoiTidge and Cream, Tea, Coffee, Cocoa, Chocolate. 
 
 Fresh-boiled Trout, Beefsteaks with Mushrooms, English Bacon, 
 
 Lamb Cutlets, Sweet-cured Hams, Eggs, Omelettes. 
 
 Breads. 
 Brown, Dipped Toast, Dry Toast, Graham Bread, Corn Bread, 
 
 HotEolls. 
 
 Lunch. , 
 
 Cold meats. Stew, Californian Pears, Cheese and Biscuits, 
 Tea and Coffee. 
 
 2St 
 m 
 
 le 
 
 Dinner. 
 
 ■ " idaey Soup, Salmon and Potatoes, Salmi of Duck, Boast Beef, 
 
 Ft oast Lamb. 
 
 Eice Pudding, Cranberry Pies. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 There were excellent clarets, spirits, and beer. The 
 above, I think, proves that the comforts of the ta])lo are 
 carefully studied by the Canadian Pacific Company. 
 
 . \t ilazokama, Lake Superior comes into view. The day 
 
26 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOJ'. [chap. 
 
 I 
 
 
 '\\ 
 
 J 'i '^ 
 
 i| I 
 
 I 
 
 was not so clear as we would have wished, but the sharp 
 and rugged ^dges of the cliffs, lialf hidden by mist, looked 
 striking and impressive. There is stili a great deal of ice 
 all along the coast ; the enormous extent of water makes 
 it difficult to realise that this is a fresh- water lake. A 
 chain of islands separate Nepigon Bay from the lake, and 
 the shore of the bay is the line followed by the train to 
 and from Nepigon station. Excellent trout fishing can be 
 obtained in the Nepigon river, where 6-lb. trout are not 
 uncommon. 
 
 On Lake Superior jhe large lake trout are numercas, 
 white fish — Coregonus alhus — also ; these last are excellent 
 eating; during the summer great numbers of them are 
 caught, dried, and used in winter as one of the principal 
 articles of food. The dogs which draw the traineaux are 
 also fed with them, one dried fish being the daily allow- 
 ance for each dog. 
 
 All r,orts of people as our fellow-travellers. One little 
 weasel-faced man, a German by birth, has been everywhere 
 and seen everything, and is now travelling on some 
 scientific expedition. He tells us he has spent the last 
 two years among the Esquimaux, and shot many polar 
 bears ; he is now on his way to stay with two Indian 
 tribes, in order to learn something of their language. 
 
 The Micmacs, in New Brunswick, are the only tribe who 
 possess a written language. Some of the Indian legends 
 are very pretty, but rarely can they be ptrsuaded to tell 
 them to strangers. Until after Winnipeg is reached most 
 of the Indians are dressed in the same way as the white 
 
 i| 
 
III.] 
 
 LAKE SUPERIOR. 
 
 27 
 
 people, which costume does not at all suit the noble 
 red man. 
 
 Port Arthur is beautifully situated on the west shore 
 of Thunder Bay, now a flourishing town, and one of the 
 great exporting places for grain. We had fine views of 
 the famous Sleeping Giant mountain, behind which is the 
 Silver Inlet, a mining locality which has yielded almost 
 fabulous wealth. 
 
 The Canadian Pacific Company's steamers have been 
 blocked in the ice for the last seven days, and were only 
 extricated yesterday. One foolhardy passenger with 
 several guides attempted, with the aid of a dog traineau, 
 to reach the land, in order to avoid the vexatious delay ; 
 the ice, however, became so broken up before they had 
 accomplished half the distance, that they were only 
 rescued with considerable danger and difficulty by a relief 
 party from the shore, who dragged a boat over the ice and 
 through the water, arriving just in time, as these too 
 adventurous people were completely exhausted. 
 
 All watches are put back one hour here, and another 
 hour when we reach Winnipeg ; they were put back four- 
 and-a-half hours when crossing the Atlantic, and half an 
 hour will also have to be deducted on reaching Calgary, 
 so the difference of time between London and Calgary is 
 seven hours. Thus, when it is but 5 p.m. here it is mid- 
 night in England. 
 
 Fort William, an old Hudson Bay post on the Kami- 
 nistiquia river, affords extraordinary advantages for 
 lake traffic. After this is passed, we reach a place 
 
28 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 
 ■.I 
 
 
 ;;5 i 
 
 called Savenne ; there we saw two of the old boats built 
 at Quebec and used by Lord Wolseley in 1870 on his way 
 to Fort Garry, now Winnipeg. 
 
 At East Selkirk the line turns southward, and at 
 St. Boniface the river is crossed by a long iron bridge, and 
 Winnipeg is reached. It is now a flourishing town of 
 25,000 inhabitants, but at the time of Lord Wolseley's 
 expedition it was only the principal Hudson's Bay trading- 
 post, with little to be seen except the for^ and a small settle- 
 ment of about 250 to 300 people, chiefly known then as 
 the centre of the half-breed rebellion under Louis Eiel. 
 
 To reach Fort Garry, Lord Wolseley had to bring his 
 troops by steamer to Thunder Bay, at the head of Lake 
 Superior, and after making a road for forty miles through 
 the woods to Lake Shebandowan, he accomplished the rest 
 of the way by using the lakes, rivers and portages con- 
 necting them. I may add that the Kaministiquia and 
 Matawan rivers were used to get both boats and stores to 
 this point, as well as the road to Lake Shebandowan. It 
 took his little force ninety-five days to complete a journey 
 which we accomplished in forty-five hours. 
 
 It is very interesting to Algernon, seeing all this country 
 again, as he was one of the officers with Lord Wolseley, 
 who told me Algernon carried the heaviest pack during 
 that expedition ; and having both skill and experience in 
 canoe work, he steered many of the boats down the most 
 dangerous part of tiie rapids. 
 
 Winnipeg is situated on the isthmus of land formed by 
 the junction of the Assiniboine and the Red rivers, is about 
 
 
 in 
 
HI.] 
 
 THE PRAIRIE. 
 
 29 
 
 to 
 
 It 
 
 }^ 
 
 n 
 
 it 
 
 ninety miles from the United States frontier, fifty miles 
 south of the lake whose name it takes, and into which the 
 Eed river runs, opening up by water all the vast and 
 fertile region of the Saskatchewan. The Saskatchewan 
 river is 500 miles long, and drains an area of 25,000 
 square miles. As we intended to revisit Winnipeg, we 
 only ren^ ined there a short time and then rejoined the 
 "Cars." 
 
 From here to Brandon we pass through the great wheat 
 country of Manitoba ; after leaving Brandon we are really 
 on the prairie — grass everywhere, and such grass ! 
 
 Now and again the train stops, and we find ourselves 
 in a prairie town, which appears to consist of an hotel (at 
 the bar of which the most fiery whisky is to be had !) with 
 several wooden houses scattered round it, and generally a 
 few stray cattle. 
 
 Talking of hotels, when one enters the North-West 
 Territory the prohibition of spirits is strenuously enforced, 
 though, in spite of this, whisky seems to be generally 
 procurable with a little management. 
 
 Portage la Prairie and Brandon are the two principal 
 grain markets of the province. 
 
 In the Canadian North- West there are about 300 
 million acre;! of arable and pasture land, of which one- 
 third or more may be capable of producing wheat of the 
 finest quality.* 
 
 * " The Prairie Section (according to the Canadian Geological Survey 
 Eeports) may be said to extend from the Eed river, on the 97th 
 meridian W. from Greenwich, to Calgary, near the Rocky Mountains, 
 
y 
 
 jT 
 
 I ' ' 
 
 iU 
 
 30 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Further on we passed Eegina, the capital of Assiniboia ; 
 the Executive Council of the North-West Territory, em- 
 
 ;(: 
 
 on the 114th meridiau, a distance of 800 miles, and from the 49th to 
 the 54th degrees of north latitude. 
 
 There are three distinct plateaux or steppes sloping from the Rocky 
 Mountains, north-easterly towards Lake Winnipeg and the Red 
 river, having well-defined escarpments running north-westerly parallel 
 with the range. 
 
 The general slope from the foot-hills of the Rockies averages about 
 five feet to the mile. 
 
 The lowest of these plateaux averages about 800 feet above the sea, 
 and embraces an extensive lake system nearly 14,000 miles in extent, 
 the largest, Lake Winnipeg, covering 8,500 square miles. 
 
 The total area, including the lakes, is 55,000 square miles. 
 
 This interior basin, the lowest of the continent, generally known as 
 the Red River Valley, has perhaps the finest wheat-land in the world. 
 It is only fifty-two miles wide at the International boundary, and 
 rises thence southward for about 200 miles, attaining an elevation 
 nearly one thousand feet above sea-level. 
 
 The second steppe is about 250 miles wide at the 49th parallel, and 
 200 miles at the 54th, having an area of over 100,000 square miles, 
 71,000 square miles of which form the eastern portion of the great 
 plains. Its average elevation is 1,600 feet above sea-level. 
 
 The third steppe has an average elevation of 3,000 feet, being 4,000 
 feet at the foot-hills and 2,000 feet at its eastern edge. Its area is 
 134,000 square miles, of which 115,000 are almost entirely devoid of 
 forest. Its breadth on the 49th parallel is 465 miles. 
 
 The total area south of the 54th parallel is 280,000 square miles — 
 about 180,000,000 of acres ; of which, after allowing for swamps and 
 lakes, mountains and barrens, by far the greater portion is arable. 
 
 In a recent report of the Senate of Canada it is stated that this 
 northern forest-covered region embraces also the greatest fur-producing 
 country in the world, supplying three-fourths of all the valuable 
 furs sou. in Leipsic and London, to the annual value of millions of 
 dollars. 
 
 The climate of the eastern slope of the Rockies for a belt of over 
 150 miles in width is, as compared with the plains on the same 
 latitude eastward, exceptionally mild in winter. A south-west wind, 
 
 
 \m 
 
 W miM ' M.li 
 
III.] 
 
 NORTH- WEST MOUNTED POLICE, 
 
 31 
 
 IS 
 
 of 
 
 ble 
 lof 
 
 3r 
 
 bracing the provinces of Assiniboia, Alberta, Saskatche- 
 wan, and Athabaska, meet here. At this place also are 
 the headquarters of the North- West Mounted Police, a 
 military organisation numbering 1000, of whom Canada 
 is justly proud, they being nearly all picked men, and 
 under the strictest military discipline. 
 
 The country, though retaining all the characteristics of 
 the prairie, is now more broken and undulating ; deserted 
 lakes and buffalo wallows become more frequent, and are 
 favourite resorts of water-fowl of all kinds. Swans, 
 cranes, geese, pelicans, and uu.cks of many varieties all 
 frequent them ; snipe, plover, curlew, and prairie chicken 
 are also to be met with in this part of the country, while 
 now and again the wandering coyotd may be seen 
 skulking on his lonely way ; antelopes are rare, being shy 
 and timid animals, and therefore scared by the noise of 
 
 called the Chinook, blowing at right angles to and over the Rockies, 
 brings a thaw, removing snow, and enabling cattle to feed out all the 
 year round. At Caumore, in the Rockies, 4,200 feet above the tide, 
 cattle range out during the winter. The remarkable warmth of a 
 wind passing for hundreds of miles over snow-covered mountains, could 
 not be accounted for by the proximity of the warm waters of the Pacific, 
 but is explained by the alternate expansion and condensation of air 
 flowing from the ocean level over the mountains, and descending 
 thence to the plains below. As the moisture is evaporated or the air 
 expanded in rising over the mountains, latent heat is absorbed, which 
 is given out again by the condensation of the moisture or the com- 
 pression of the air in descending to the plains below. 
 
 The Bow river coal area is estimated to contain 330,000,000 of tons, 
 and will be the chief source of supply for the prairie region and for 
 many hundred miles of railway, and an increasing source oF traffic for 
 the latter." — President T. Reefer's Address to Am. Soc. C.E., 1888. 
 
Sa 
 
 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 I i 
 
 !.' 
 
 - • 
 
 j 
 
 m 
 
 !> 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 (. 
 
 i/ 
 i I 
 
 
 ii 
 
 the passing trains. The prairie which we have traversed 
 is all marked by the old trails of buffalo, and in some 
 places their bones and skulls lie thickly scattered. 
 
 At Medicine Hat we saw many Blackfoot and Cree 
 Indians, their reservations not being far off. Most of the 
 squaws sat on the ground, huddled up in their coloured 
 blankets, looking miserable enough, some of them smoking, 
 and offering for sale polished buffalo horns, which are so 
 scarce now that even those gathered off the prairie 
 command a ready sale. The braves, in blankets of 
 brilliant colours, stood talking in groups. One Indian 
 papoose was looking longingly at an orange which a 
 small white child was eating. I had just time, as 
 the train moved off, to obtain three from the dining car 
 and give them to the child ; and the squaws bobbed 
 their heads in acknowledgment, and giggled with 
 pleasure as the papoose toddled towards them with the 
 oranges in her small arms. Trifling incidents like this 
 bring one into touch with the people, and gratify oneself 
 as well. 
 
 A station garden was being made here, and seemed to 
 be a novel and interesting sight to the inhabitants, who 
 crowded round it. A man was busily engaged planting 
 trees and flower-seeds, while at the other end of the 
 garden two enterprising black pigs had entered un- 
 observed through a hole in the fence, and were enjoying 
 themselves vastly, ploughing up the soft earth with their 
 snouts, until they were routed with ignominy by the aid 
 of sticks and stones. 
 
^^mm 
 
 A Itl.AlKI-OOT INDIAN. 
 
 [ /(; /(lie !> 
 
V n 
 
 ) I 
 
 f'f 
 
 * 
 
 
 I. 
 
 SI 
 
 !*i 
 
HI.] 
 
 BUFFALO, 
 
 33 
 
 'I 
 
 Wlioii Al;,'emoii was in Colorado in 187;', there were 
 thousands of bulMo on the phiins, and when ho was 
 coming eastwards the following year by the Kansas Paciiic 
 Kailway, the train was 8toi)ped for many hours by the 
 big herd crossing the line. 
 
 There were two herds, the " southern herd," which 
 ranged between tlie lliver Platte and Old IMexico, and the 
 " northern herd," which rarely crossed the I'latte, and 
 ranged as far north as the Great Slave Lake. 
 
 The last time the northern herd came north, over 
 800,000 were killed for their hides alone, which at that 
 time were valued at $1 each. Now it is next to im- 
 possible to procure a good buffalo robe. A very fine one, 
 which was sent to the Colonial Exhibition in London, was 
 sold on its return to Toronto for $60 — a great bargain. 
 
 No fence, however strong, stopped the buffalo. As 
 the herd marched on, by sheer weight it broke down 
 every impediment. If the leaders failed to do this, the 
 animals behind pressed forward, walking over the bodies 
 of those who fell in front. 
 
 With the march of civilization, they were bound in 
 time to disappear, but the wanton destruction of these 
 noble creatures seemed ruthless waste.* 
 
 We now saw glimpses of the Bow river ; the undula- 
 tions of the foot-hills were a relief after the level prairie 
 
 u 
 
 * Have just heard that the tame herd of buffalu near Winnipeg 
 has been sold to a ranche in Texas for $18,000 ; only nine of these 
 animals are pure bred, the remainder of the herd are crossed with 
 Texan cows. 
 
 D 
 

 i 
 
 i' 
 
 '11 
 
 / 
 
 34 
 
 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 over which we had heen travelling for two days, and we 
 were glad to be nearing our journey's end. 
 
 In the old days before the railway, it was thought to 
 be fast travelling to go from Winnipeg to the Eocky 
 Mountains in six weeks. The same journey took us 
 three days. We reached Calgary at two in the morning, 
 having been much delayed by the heating of a wheel, 
 which necessitated our frequently stopping to cool it down. 
 
 A lad killed a snake at '^ue of the places where we 
 stopped. There are a few rattlesnakes round Medicine 
 Hat, but, with this exception, there are not many in this 
 part of the country. 
 
 A 
 
iv.l 
 
 ( 35 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 C.LGARY AND MiTFOED. 
 
 " What man would live coffined with brick and stone ? 
 Imprisoned from the influences of air ! 
 And cramped with selfish landmarks everywhere, 
 When all before him stretciies furrowless and lon'a 
 The unmapped prairie none can fence or ovin."~LoweU. 
 
 Boyal Hotel, Calgary, May 30^— After a five clays' 
 journey, we were glad to leave the train ; a dirty-looking 
 room and not particularly clean-looking beds were not 
 inviting; however, at 2 a.m. we had nothing to do but 
 make the best of them. No baths were procurable this 
 morning, and we had the toughest of beef-steaks for 
 breakfast. This hotel seems used as a sort of club by 
 many me.i coming in long distances from their ranches ; 
 when obliged to remain in town for tlie night they sit in 
 tlie bar, talking and smoking in groups. 
 
 Calgary is the centre of the great ranching country, and 
 one of the cliief outfitting-plac,33 for the mining districts 
 We found it full of Cowboys and Lilians ; the slioj.s which 
 the latter seemed to appreciate were the butchers and 
 
 D 2 
 
IT 
 
 36 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 photograpliers, some of their own portraits being for sale 
 in the windows of the latter. 
 
 During dinner we had a message from the G s to 
 
 come and see them in their car. They were on their 
 way to Toronto, and gave us charming accounts of the 
 delights of their journey through the mountains. 
 
 A telegram from the C s, telling us to come to 
 
 Mitford this evening, was very welcome. The train to 
 Vancouver does not pass till 2 a.ti., so we were glad to go 
 by a freight train passing in the afternoon. 
 
 It required some persuasion to induce the co'iductor of 
 the freight train to take us with him ; but ultimately he 
 agreed to do so, and he helped us to get our baggage into 
 the caboose. 
 
 When getting off at Mitford, Algeinon offered him a 
 couple of dollars for his trouble, but he shook his head and 
 declined them with thanks. The gratuitous civilioy of 
 some of the people here strikes one veiy pleasantly. 
 
 We received a most kind welcome from our friends, who 
 have a nice little house. 
 
 I 
 
 Mitford, May ?>lst. — ^We have a beautiful view of the 
 Eocky Mountains here, and on a fine morning it is 
 difficult to believe they are sixty miles distant : we are 
 surrounded '<y fine undulating prairie. The cattle are fat 
 and sleek, thougli they have had nothing but what they 
 could find on the " range " all winter. The great draw- 
 back here is the frost at night ; even in summer there is 
 often enough to injure the potatoes and wheat. 
 
Vf^ 
 
 LIFE ON A RANCHE. 
 
 37 
 
 
 ^ Adela and I amused ourselves planting the garden : we 
 sowed c »bbages, lettuces, cauliflowers, carrots, beet, and 
 beans.* 
 
 The soil is surprisingly rich; one digs nearly a yard 
 deep, and still it is the same good brown loam everywhere. 
 
 Tlie saw-mill and house are close to the ClMl. ; at the 
 former fifty men are at work. Their wages are from |20 
 to $30 a month, and they are boarded as well. A private 
 railway brings the logs down from the forest, they are 
 sawn up here and put m the cars for market. 
 
 N , Tom C , and Algernon have been busy this 
 
 morning making a garden fence. They also are building a 
 new hen-house; the latter requires to be w^ell put together, 
 to keep out the cold in winter, and lias double walls, with 
 saw-dust filled up between. Dug-out hen-houses with 
 turf roofs also make warm shelter ; only a few have stoves, 
 and often the claws of the poor birds get fi' 't- bitten. The 
 cat here has had her '^.ars frozen off; fortuiiiiiily they Ijolh 
 are gone just at the same place, and give her the appear- 
 ance of having her ears cropped. 
 
 Jmu \st. — Mr. Kerfoot, a neighbour, and one of the best 
 riders and drivers in the North-West, drove Adela's i)onies 
 in the buckboard. They have been on the prairie Tor six 
 months ; when " taken up " they often require re-breaking ; 
 one of them lay down twice, bucked, and made a great 
 fuss, Mr. Kerfoot drove them patiently and well. The 
 harness and buckboard, both of American make, were 
 * And heard afterwards everything had done well. 
 
w 
 
 I! 
 
 •i'l 
 
 il: 
 
 u i 
 
 ill 
 
 if ^^ i 
 
 ! 
 
 38 IMFjRESSIONS of a tenderfoot, [chap. 
 
 perfectly adapted to the rough roads and prairie work. 
 These carriages, owing to the wide axle, are almost 
 impossible to upset, and one can drive them where no 
 English carriage could go. The harness enables the horses 
 to go quite independently of each other ; the pole-pieces, 
 instead of being, as in England, fast to the head of the pole, 
 are here attached to a short bar called the yoke, which 
 works loosely on the end of it, and also giv^s the horses a 
 straight pull in holding back. 
 
 We all started on the private railway to see the 
 timber limits, which are fifteen miles distant. A truck 
 was arranged for us to sit on in front of the engine, 
 the latter pushing us along. The men in charge drove too 
 fast, and when we had gone about three miles, we felt 
 several great jolts, the truck had left the rails and upset ; 
 most fortunately for us, one of the wheels got wedged in 
 the sand, and the brakesman, having put on the brakes, 
 stopped the engine. For a few moments there was an 
 awful feeling of suspense ; we all expected the engine 
 would come crashing down on the top of us; happily, 
 however, this did not occur, else we might all have been 
 killed. On regaining our feet, we found the only person 
 badly injured was the brakesniiin ; he, poor fellow, lay 
 under the engine, with three bad wounds in his head, and 
 his ear almost severed from the scalp. With difficulty he 
 was extricated from his perilous position, and while the 
 C s and Algernon remained with him, N — 
 
 and I 
 
 went for assistance. 
 
 We ran for three miles across the prairie, and sent for the 
 
 .*~;^sa«* 
 
iv.l 
 
 A RAILWAY ACCIDENT. 
 
 39 
 
 id 
 
 doctor — there was one fortunately only two miles off — and 
 having procured a mattress, pillows, ether, and bandages, 
 harnessed the buckboard ; then there was a doubt if we 
 could manage the ponies, which had been so refractory the 
 day before. I undertook to drive, and kept them at full 
 gallop the whole way. One condition I made before start- 
 ing, that in going up the hill over very rough ground, as 
 the ponies required my undivided attention, I was not to 
 be allowed to be jolted out of the carriage. 
 
 The doctor came quickly, a waggon followed, the 
 poor fellow was soon in his little bed at the saw-mills, 
 and, wonderful to relate, though so terribly injured, and 
 with a badly-fractured skull, he recovered. It is always 
 much in favour of these men during illness that they have 
 lived a hardy out-of-door life, 
 
 June 2nd. — Drove to the British American Co.'s sheep- 
 ranclie. The manager was away, but his housekeeper gave 
 us luncheon ; afterwards we went out fishing. We caught 
 nineteen trout; having heard how easy it was to catch 
 iish here, we were disappointed at finding them very 
 shy. A thunder-storm was going on most of the time, 
 which may have been the reason of our want of success. 
 Here the fish take best on a bright sunny day — ^just the 
 contrary to what they do in England. 
 
 We went on later to the store at Cochrane, kept by a 
 Frenchman, who had previously lived all his life in Paris. 
 He said he was doing pretty well, but the prairie life 
 seemed somewhat to depress him. 
 
I 
 
 1 
 
 • ;ii 
 
 :' 11 
 
 40 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Jtine Zrd. — The doctor who comes to see the man who 
 was liurt in the engine, has travelled mucli, and was for a 
 long time in the Hudson Bay Co.'s service. He told me 
 that when at IMoose Factory he had an excellent team of 
 ten Esquimaux dogs, and had on one occasion driven 
 them to Albany, a distance of 110 miles, in 24 hours, 
 returning the same distance two days later. The old 
 breed of Esquimaux dogs is very scarce now ; we saw a 
 team in Calgary, the leaders being the only fine ones ; for 
 this pair the owner was offered £100, which he refused. 
 
 June 4:th. — 10° of frost last night.. 
 
 Algernon went for a ride with Mr. Kerfoot, and in the 
 afternoon we all rode over to his horse-ranche. The horses 
 are most clever in avoiding the gopher holes, and if given 
 their heads they can go at any pace over them without 
 making a mistake. 
 
 Gophers abound here ; in places the prairie is full of 
 their burrows, and being a kind of marmot, they live 
 underground. 
 
 At the ranche we saw more than a hundred horses. The 
 corrals are wonderfully well arranged, three opening into 
 each other. When the band of horses has been driven 
 into the first, which is the largest, the horses required for 
 branding or breaking are separated from the rest, and, the 
 gate being opened, are turned into the second corral. The 
 entrance into the third corral is by a very high and strong 
 gate, so arranged as to swing round against the side of 
 this corral, with just space for a horse to stand between. 
 
 P 
 
 '*M 
 
IV.] 
 
 THE JUMPING POUND, 
 
 41 
 
 A single horse is now let through this gate, which is 
 swung round, holding him against the side of the third 
 corral, so that he is helpless and cannot fight or hurt 
 liimself while being branded or bridled. 
 
 Algernon chose a horse, and after he had been lunged 
 on a lariat, Mr, Kerfoot saddled, mounted, and took 
 him for a gallop over the prairie, and brought him in 
 quite quiet. Unless a horse shows temper, this is about 
 all the breaking he gets ; constant work and plenty of it 
 effect the rest. 
 
 Mrs. Kerfoot gave us a most excellent tea, with cakes of 
 all kinds, which had been made by herself. Our ride 
 home in the evening across the prairie was most enjoyable, 
 the setting sun tipping the distant snowy peaks of tlio 
 Eockies with golden and fiery red colours. 
 
 June Q>tli. — On the other side of the Bow river is a canon 
 known as " the jumping iwund" over the edge of which 
 the hunters used to drive the buffalo, and in tliis canon 
 their bones still lie in places two or three feet deep ; they 
 are now being taken away and used for manure. 
 
 A band of Blackfoot Indians passed to-day ; tlie chief, 
 " Three Plumes," rode up to the house to show his permit, 
 which is given by the Indian agent to enable them 
 to leave their reservations for a stated time ; this band 
 had been on a visit to the Stony Indians. We have 
 since heard that the guests on leaving stole thirty ponies. 
 
 Had they passed here without showing their permit, 
 the mounted police would have been informed, and it is 
 
i!;l 
 
 
 4a IMPJiESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 one of their duties to see that the Indians remain on their 
 reservations. They seemed very friendly, shook hands 
 with all the men they saw about, inspected the railway 
 engine with interest, and rode away. An Indian seldom 
 expresses any surprise. 
 
 After the last rebellion several chiefs were taken to 
 Montreal and shown everything that was calculated to 
 impress them ; the only remark they made was, " Why do 
 not the white men make their squaws work ? " Their 
 squaws do all the hard work, but perhaps will have an 
 easier time as the men get more civilized. In many cases 
 there is a strong feeling of antipathy between the white 
 and red men. The Indians in many parts of the North- 
 West Territory bury their dead on a raised platform, the 
 body is placed upon it wrapped in birch-bark, often with a 
 l)iece of tobacco in the hand. I was sorry to hear that 
 to get possession of this tobacco, the body is often pulled 
 down by rough whites ; and one can understand the 
 distress this causes the Indians, whose dead are as sacred 
 to them as ours are to us. 
 
 Whilst on their reservations they' have a daily ration of 
 food given to them, consisting of 1 lb. of meat, 1 lb. of flour, 
 some tea and sugar ; also one suit of clothes, a blanket, 
 and $3 per annum. 
 
 June 7th. — Algernon and Tom C- 
 
 - have gone into 
 Calgary, which is twenty-five miles distant ; they left at 
 7 A.M. and return to-morrow. 
 Adela and I took the ponies and drove in the buckboard 
 
 '.Jt^lMfMlMI 
 
bo 
 It 
 
 i 
 
 IV.] 
 
 A ROUGH LIFE. 
 
 43 
 
 to see neighbours who have a cattle-ranch twelve miles 
 from here. As we left the trail we bumped along over the 
 prairie, hut in this kind of carriage one does not feel it 
 much, and finally found ourselves confronted by a large bog, 
 which did not look inviting, but which appeared to be the 
 only approach to the ranch. Adela went to inspect it 
 accompanied by her faithful deer-hound Ginger. He sniffed 
 the place suspiciously, but would not go through it ; so after 
 liaving wet her feet she was obliged to return to the 
 buckboard, and finally after some trouble we drove through 
 in safety, feeling much relieved when we found ourselves 
 at the other side. 
 
 The ranche was a nice log-house, the inside being match- 
 boarded with the red Douglas pine, which gave an air of 
 comfort and refinement to the nicely-arranged rooms. 
 The old Scotch lady and her two daughters were at home, 
 and gave us an excellent tea, which we much enjoyed 
 after our long drive. They do everything for themselves, 
 having no servants, for the very good reason that on 
 account of the loneliness of the place no one will stay 
 with them. 
 
 I asked our hostess what had induced her to leave 
 Scotland. She said her eldest son was one of the engineers 
 on the C.P.E. and had advised her to come ; that son was 
 now married and had gone to Vancouver, so she and her 
 daughters were now living with the younger son, who had 
 just started this cattle-ranch. 
 
 It gives some idea of hardship when one sees ladies 
 obliged to do everything for themselves. During the 
 
44 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 siiiumer, when the days are long and sunny, it may ho 
 pleasant ; I doubt it. But when the snow is deep, and the 
 place sliut off from all communication with the outer world, 
 when the days close in at four o'clock, and wolves and 
 bears occasionally prowl round the house, then these poor 
 folk must wish themselves back again in their Highland 
 home far over the wide sea. 
 
 ! 
 
 ; 1 
 
 i .';• 
 
 June llth. — Until this morning we have not seen the 
 liockies for nearly a week. 
 
 Innumerable wild flowers grow on the prairie; last 
 month there were anemones of all colours, and in a few 
 weeks there will be masses of dog-roses and wild honey- 
 suckle : it is a kind pro\ ision of nature that this wild rose 
 is so hardy, it stands even the extreme cold of winter, and 
 grows from the root each year. The doctor, who is a 
 botanist, sent a collection of wild flowers which he had 
 made on the prairie to Kew Gardens, to be classified. He 
 has lent me two books that I am glad to have : " Gray's 
 Manual of Botany," and a catalogue of Canadian plants, 
 by John McEwan, M.A., RL.S., F.E.C.S. 
 
 One of the best districts for collecting wild flowers is at 
 the foot of the Crowfoot valley; this place (and also 
 Morley) are Indian reservations, and it is remarkable that 
 in choosing them the Indians have selected the most fertile 
 and prettiest valleys. 
 
 "We went to see the coal-mine which was discovered 
 three years ago ; the first traces of coal being seen at the 
 mouth of a badger's hole. Adela and I only went in as 
 
 *-a M4j« i )w ' n. < ^. ' » <i »j 
 
 ; , m , 'm r. r 's siaa g af-tMM UCJ S Ss 
 
IV.] 
 
 THE LIVE STOCK. 
 
 45 
 
 far as tlie end of the first gallery, where we met a man and 
 horse l)rinp,ing up a truck of coal to the nioutli ; the otlua-s 
 all departed along a similar gallery, eacli carrying a Davy 
 lamp; as yet there is little danger of gas, the workings 
 being quite near the surface. 
 
 d 
 le 
 Is 
 
 June 13^/t, — I have become quite attached to all the 
 animals here, and have undertaken the charge of the 
 poultry ; indeed I feel quite sorry for several of them,, 
 which have lost some of their toes from the effects of frost- 
 bite : one old white hen runs about on stumps, seemingly 
 not much inconvenienced ! All the people here, who have 
 poultry, find the necessity of keeping them very warm, 
 and either make them "dug-outs" or else comfortable 
 wooden houses. Eggs are still about 6s. a dozen, and 
 chickens are almost impossible to procure. We have four 
 chickens hatched, and four hens sitting. 
 
 Of other animals, " Ginger," the deer-hound, is a large 
 tawny-coloured dog, and is supposed to be the last of his 
 race, a descendant of Gelert ; we have also " Jack," the 
 kitchen dog, a thick-set brown spaniel, \\\i\\ a white chest, 
 he has evidently been roughly treated at some time, as he 
 is inclined to bite, and growls at every one ; his sole virtue 
 is his de\^9tion to the cook. When any one says " Go 
 away, kitchen dog ! " he struts off with his tail over his 
 back. With one sitting-room, much confusion is caused 
 by his appearance at lunch or dinner, as he and the deer- 
 hound are on the worst of terms. 
 
 ** Polly," a black retriever puppy, is so unaccustomed to 
 
wr 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 46 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 womankincl, tliat when Adela or I go to play with hor, she 
 tries to escape by getting under the house, which is raised 
 ofr the ground to make it dry during the winter, tlie 
 ordinary way of building out liere. 
 
 There are two pigs, a black and a white one ; and two 
 cows, a wild and a quiet one j and a calf which takes about 
 three men to hold. 
 
 We shall soon be going " further west ; " but our visit 
 liere has been a most pleasant one. 
 
 N made me a good easel to-day; he is a clever 
 
 carpenter. 
 
 We saw a coyote this evening. Two of the men crossed 
 the river after him ; but he was too wary to let them get a 
 shot. 
 
 We heard last night of a Major , at Fort , who 
 
 some years ago married a very beautiful squaw, a Blood 
 Indian ; he took her to England, and she has travelled with 
 him to different placeSj and yet now, if she gets a chance, 
 slie throws off all her civilized dress, wraps herself in a 
 blanket, and returns to her tribe. So wild are some of 
 these races by nature, that civilized life for the first 
 generation seems an impossibility. 
 
 June IGth. — We crossed the railway bridge over the Bow 
 river ; tliis Avas to me rather a difficult feat, as I had to 
 walk on the sleepers and saw the river running beneath. 
 In one of the railway cuttings we found a bed of fossilized 
 mussels, and in the soil above we saw croppings of coal. 
 
 There is a wealth of grass all round us, such as one only 
 
 f. 
 
IV.] 
 
 A COWBOYS OUTFIT. 
 
 47 
 
 sees at liome in the hay-time, and growing among it many 
 deliglitful wild flowers, most of them new to me. 
 
 \ ,! 
 
 June 18^/t. — Adela's sitting hens reqnirealot of running 
 after ; half wild, and fleet as hares, they appear to have a 
 strange dislike to returning to their nests, so we have to 
 get some of the men to help us to run them down. 
 
 Two ranchers came to luncheon to-day — true types, I 
 should think, of " western men." I hear that their father 
 in England is a rich man, but he seems to do but little for 
 his sons. They work hard, even washing all their own 
 clothes and cooking, and it is not therefore to be wondered 
 at that they look rough. 
 
 The usual dress out here is a blue flannel shirt, with no 
 -roUar, but a coloured handkerchief tied loosely round the 
 neck, a buckskin shirt, a pair of leather "shapa" with fringes 
 down the seams, worn over trousers, boots, and a broad- 
 brimmed felt hat, with a leather band round it, which is 
 generally stamped with patterns and ornamented in some 
 way. 
 
 " Shap " is an abbreviation of the Mexican word " chap- 
 arajos," and are long leather leggings. A lariat coiled at 
 the horn of the Mexican saddle, a plaited leather bridle 
 with a severe Spanish bit, and a pair of smart spurs, often 
 silver-mounted, complete the cowboy's outfit. Furtlier 
 south the saddle and bridle are often heavily plated with 
 silver ; $300 and $400 is not an unusual price to pay for 
 them there, and though their owner is often short of 
 money, he will seldom part with these things. 
 
s; ' 
 
 ?h k 
 
 48 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap, 
 
 IVo men from a neiglibouring ranclie rode by this 
 afternoon, they had been rounding up their cattle all day, 
 and looked jaded and worn. "We saw them drive out a 
 refractory steer from a band of cattle which l)elonged to 
 some one else, — no easy mutter for them on their tired 
 bronchos, — and after it was done they disappeared over 
 the prairie, driving their steer in front of them. 
 
 June IWh to 20fJi. — Mr. Van Home, president of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, arrived by s, enal train, and 
 stayed for half-an-hour to talk over some bn.siix^ss-matter 
 
 with Mr. C . He is on liis way to Yancouv«jr, and, I 
 
 hear, generally goes at the rate of fifty miles an hour all 
 through the mountains. His car is more like a house 
 than a railway carriage, having bed-room, bath-room, 
 dining-room, kitchen, and lastly, an excellent cook. 
 
 A good gallop over the prairie tliis morning was 
 delightful. All the horses lune are most excellent hacks, 
 and never stumljle. 
 
 June 21st. — To- ^.ay we visited the forest or timber 
 liiiiits. starting early The ride was (juite delightful, as 
 we cantered up and down these limitless plams of 
 iii-ass, with the mountains stretcliing awav into the dim 
 distance as far as the eye could reach, and extending 
 in (Janada alone for 800 miles, I felt uU the exhilaration 
 that freedom gives in these untrod len solitudes. A horse 
 i',ust be ridden with a loose rein here, to enalile him to 
 see the gopher holes, of which the ground is full. Tares 
 
 4^-—.. .. __.. 
 
 .:"■'» .KBS 
 
 ..■iwiaj,ii;..|,ii'iiiii. - 
 
Si 
 S 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 
m 
 
 mmmmmmma 
 
 n 
 
 ? .' 
 
 i' I 
 
 i 
 
 
 I 
 
 Ti 
 
IV.] 
 
 FRENCH SETTLERS. 
 
 49 
 
 of many shades, pea-vine, wild oamoniile, cyclamens, 
 bugle-flowers, and many other wild flowers, we saw as 
 we rode along ; also myrtles, gooseberries, and dog-roses. 
 Occasionally a few prairie hen rose in front of us, and 
 flew away, wondering doubtless at being disturbed. 
 
 As we came in view of tlie log-house where some of the 
 lumbermen live, we saw the forest beneath us, and in 
 the distance the snowy mountains ; these great snow peaks 
 change their aspect with every gleam of sunlight, with 
 every shower, with every breath of wind, and in their 
 ever-changing beauty continually suggested fresh thoughts 
 from the book of Nature. 
 
 Lord Beaconsfield said tha^- one might get tired of 
 mountains, but that trees were a constant enjoyment ; 
 but I could never tire of the everlasting hills. 
 
 We rode on four miles further, over somewhat 
 marshy ground, then, after descending a rather pre- 
 cipitous path, we found ourselves at a place which 
 goes by the name of Dog Pond Creek ; the horses were 
 all picketed out, the harness and saddles having been 
 removed. 
 
 "We then went to fish in a pretty creek close by ; the 
 fish seemed amused by our efforts to catch them, for they 
 moved slowly after the fly, but would not take; three 
 times I changed it, but, alas ! no luck. 
 
 Two nice Frenchwomen from the ranche near came to 
 talk to us, and said it was useless, as the fish were only 
 
 caught on a day with a bright sun shining. Mr. C 
 
 then tried a minnow, with no better succesG ; so we 
 
 E 
 
1 
 
 ' 
 
 so IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 bundled up our rods, and wondered what we should do 
 without fish for our luncheon. 
 
 Madame d'Artigue and her husband and sister (French 
 people from the Basque Provinces) are in charge of this 
 ranche for some one who lives in Calgary. It was quite 
 a pleasure to see their beautifully-managed poultry-yards. 
 There were hundreds of chickens of all ages and sizes, 
 rows of boxes for the sitting hens with one hen in each, 
 all arranged in the simple and practical manner peculiar 
 to French people. There is an excellent market for 
 poultry in the North-West ; they told me that for i. capon 
 they got $1 • 75 cents in Calgary. 
 
 These good people were most hospitable, insisting on 
 giving us a skim-milk cheese, a bucketful of milk, and a 
 tin-dishful of eggs ; with the last we made a large 
 omelet, and with all these things, added to what we had 
 brought from Mitford, made an excellent repast. 
 
 When the horses were being talcen to water, four got 
 
 loose, and galloped off, much to our dismay ; but Tom C 
 
 on his excellent cow pony soon brought them back again. 
 We said good-bye to the kind-hearted French people, who 
 stood waving their hands to us, until a rising mound hid 
 them from our sight. Continuing our ride, we stopped 
 
 and had tea at the I 's. We were all rather tired, and 
 
 the mosquitoes were very troublesome tliis evening, 
 literally covering the horses, but fortunately annoying us 
 less by their bites than by their numbers. 
 
 Sundmj, June 2Uh, — In the evening we had a service 
 
 } 
 
 . 
 
;v.] 
 
 ANOTHER RAIL WA Y ACCIDENT, 
 
 51 
 
 from a travelling minister — about half the men came ; the 
 hymns selected by him were not at all cheerful nor bright, 
 and his sermon was not suitable in any way to the re- 
 quirements of his listeners, which one regretted. 
 
 Two hens hatched off to-day twenty-six chickens, a 
 welcome addition to the poultry-yard ; and, as Adela and 
 I have taken much trouble, we felt rewarded. 
 
 Algernon rode to the hors'^.-ranch, and, as we leave to- 
 morrow, he returned the horse kindly lent to him. 
 
 Eather a tragic termination to our visit was caused 
 by another accident on the railway. In the evening we 
 heard the mill-whistle blowing violently, and found that 
 the engine, returning with four trucks of lumber, had been 
 thrown off the rails ; the engineer got jammed between the 
 engine and the logs, and had his leg broken in two places ; 
 but such is the toughness of these men thirt when being 
 carried down we heard him joking with the others about 
 not yet needing to be carried feet first, though he must 
 have been suffering great pain. 
 
 VI 
 
 us 
 
 ^ice 
 
 E 2 
 
 ^i 
 
 It 
 
^^■^TST" 
 
 I I 
 
 52 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap, 
 
 CHAPTEE V. 
 Banff — Good Fishing in Minnewonka Lake. 
 
 " Lo — peak on peak in stairways sit 
 In stepping-stones that reach to God." 
 
 !l|i 
 
 'i 
 
 I 
 
 June 26^7t. — Said good-bye to the C s last night with 
 
 regret. A train which stops to take up passengers at 
 3 A.M. is unusual at home, but such was the hour at 
 which we left Mitford, and we reached Banff at 7 a.m. 
 We did not think a sleeping-car necessary, as it was only 
 a four hours' journey, and we were rewarded, on entering 
 the Eockies at Canmore at early dawn, by the rare beauty 
 of the sunrise. 
 
 The large hotel of the Canadian Pacific Eailway 
 Company at Banff is built entirely of wood, like an 
 enormous Swiss chalet ; it stands alone, about half a mile 
 from the small but rapidly growing town. 
 
 The hotel has accommodation for 300 persons ; it is ex- 
 ceedingly comfortable in every respect. Wonderful enter- 
 prise on the part of the Company to have erected such a 
 fine building in the middle of these mountains ! 
 
 i 
 
 ^ifiKmn 
 
 mm 
 
v.] 
 
 THE BOW RIVER. 
 
 53 
 
 ex- 
 ter- 
 ili a 
 
 June 21th. — We got a capital suite of rooms with a 
 lovely view, for 3J^ dollars a day. This included every- 
 thing except wme. 
 
 A glorious day was our first here. In the afternoon we 
 went in a steam-launch up the Bow river, some young 
 Englishmen having started two of these boats as a 
 speculation. We went in one called the "Mountain 
 Belle," the only other passengers being two elderly people 
 on their way to England from Australia, who were 
 spending a few days at the hotel. The scenery was mag- 
 nificent, and at each bend of the river we saw something 
 new and pleasing. The water was of an intensely green 
 colour, caused by the number of glacier streams which 
 poured into it. The young woods looked bright and 
 green, but the burnt trunks of fallen giant trees, told of 
 the terrible bush fires which have run through these woods 
 in past times. 
 
 In all directions were seen strips of burnt timber, ex- 
 tending from the base of the mountains to the snow-line, 
 showing where the fires have run up to the mountain 
 tops through the green woods. SnoAvy peaks reared their 
 ragged crests into the sky on all sides. Among such scenes 
 we passed up the river for twelve miles, though, owing to 
 the sandbanks shifting, there was some difficulty in the 
 navigation, but our skipper seemed to know his business. 
 
 We then disembarked at a little moss-covered shanty, 
 which has been built as a restaurant for the summer 
 months, and sat on the banks surveying tlie loveliness 
 around. 
 
 ill 
 
ri 
 
 
 *i 
 
 [j \ 
 
 iF 
 
 if 
 
 54 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 All the little streams which run into the Bow river 
 near here are full of trout which take a fly greedily. 
 I was the first lady who had been so far up the river. 
 
 June 20th. — ^We hired a couple of bronchos and rode 
 to the Minnewonka Lake. In the Indian language 
 Minnewonka means " The bad spirit," but I am sorry to 
 say the settlers often call it the " devil's lake," which is a 
 very ugly name compared with the Indian one. 
 
 In the same way they have changed the names of many 
 of the mountains — for the worse I think, as those chosen 
 by the Indians were always much more appropriate. 
 
 Our first start was not promising; a very lame pony 
 came for one of us, and some time was spent in exchanging 
 this for another; and though Algernon got a good one, 
 mine was a real bone-shaker, and was so tired that I could 
 hardly keep him on his legs. This was not quite what we 
 had wished with a nine-mile ride before us, but sometimes 
 one's mood is to make the best of everything, and the 
 beauty of the scene soon made me forget my miserable 
 steed. At one moment we were galloping across grassy 
 flats, then through wooded valleys with ranges of high 
 mountains as far as we could see in every direction, and 
 as we kept ascending we saw the river winding away 
 among the woods far below. In one of the prettiest places 
 we passed was a large camp of Stony Indians, and we 
 were greeted by a mob of Indian dogs, which ran out 
 barking and snapping at our ponies. 
 
 The Stonies are now a very peaceable people, and many' 
 
 !' I 
 
 "mi 
 
v.] 
 
 MINNE WONKA LAKE. 
 
 55 
 
 of them are Methodists. At their reservation at Morley is 
 a large Methodist mission. 
 
 Though the white men are not allowed to shoot game 
 until August 15th, the Indians have no restrictions of 
 this kind, and therefore the destruction of game with 
 them goes on in season and out of season. 
 
 We were now in the burnt woods, and, the trail being 
 very rough, had to go slowly. Upon the grass slopes of 
 Castle Mountain, which stood high above us, are some- 
 times to be seen the Kocky Mountain goat ; and a black 
 bear in search of berries may also be descried occasionally, 
 but we saw none and pursued our way. 
 
 The trail has been improved in the last two years, so 
 that a carriage can jolt along to the lake ; but I pity the 
 poor sufferers inside. Originally it was an Indian trail 
 winding about in all directions.* 
 
 Occasionally we crossed a log bridge over a creek. As 
 we went along I observed many wild flowers growing by 
 the side of the trail, especially a red Castilleia growing in 
 great bushes, and columbines of every shade and hue. 
 
 Having reached the lake about 6 a.m., we found two 
 log-houses in course of building, and after some little 
 trouble secured one of the workers to go out fishing 
 with us. "We unsaddled the ponies, and having watered 
 them at the lake, picketed them with the lariat one always 
 carries in this country, among the best grass we could see, 
 and left them eating it and the pea- vine, which the horses 
 love better than anything. 
 
 * Since writing this a good new road has been made from Banff. 
 
 '1 
 
 ) \t 
 
I 
 
 $6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 I \ 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 m-\ 
 
 We started in an excellent boat which our man had 
 just built, and rowed gently down the lake ; but, alas, it 
 was not possible to catch these trout with the rods we had 
 brought. Our boatman told us the lake was 600 feet 
 deep, and the fish were generally lying just off the shallow 
 places, so we were reluctantly obliged to troll with a spoon- 
 We got into a nice bay out of the wind, and the bright 
 sun made everything look pleasant. 
 
 Algernon suddenly said, " I've got one ; " the line was 
 slowly drawn in, and we awaited the arrival of the fish in 
 breathless suspense. " Are you sure he is there ? " " Is 
 he a big one ? " were the questions which quickly followed ; 
 (the fish, big or small, came along slowly"^ Algernon was 
 getting towards the end of the line, two sinkers had 
 already been drawn into the boat, the boatman got ready 
 his gaff. " Here he comes," said Algernon, " a big one, 
 by Jove ! " Although he had come pretty quietly he did 
 not like the look of the boat, gave a sudden roll, the line 
 snapped, he was off — no, gaffed just two inches above the 
 tail, and he was thrown into the boat with a heavy flop, 
 a 28-lb. trout, measuring three feet in length and over ten 
 inches in depth. We congratulated ourselves that the fish 
 was with us instead of in the lake, and having mended 
 the line and fixed the spoon, prepared for another try. 
 Not so fast. We rowed about for some time without a 
 nibble, and although the fish did not take, we had a 
 pleasant time, and kept hoping our luck would change. 
 For what is life worth without hope, which gives zest to 
 the true sportsman, who with it is content with little, 
 
 ! 
 
Y.1 
 
 FISHING EXPEDITION, 
 
 57 
 
 a 
 a 
 
 Ilia 
 
 sometimes, nay often, with nothing. — Hope carries us 
 poor mortals cheerfully on from the cradle to the grave ; 
 and though, perhaps, through some fault in ourselves, 
 what we wish to attain turns out a " Will of the Wisp," 
 still one always goes on cheerfully looking for better things. 
 
 But to return to our fishing. We became hungry, and, 
 having brought nothing with us, landed at the boatman's 
 " shack," where he quickly lighted a fire, and made us some 
 excellent tea, and with bread, jam, and biscuits we managed 
 pretty veil. We hoped to have added fish to our feast, 
 but had it not in our hearts to cut up the big one at once, 
 as we wished to show him at the hotel. 
 
 After having a look at the ponies we started again 
 in the boat, and by six o'clock had landed three more 
 fish, weighing respectively three, four, and six pounds. 
 With a nine-mile ride before us we felt it was time to 
 start for the hotel, and having resaddled, the question 
 arose, what was to be done with the spoil We did not 
 wish to leave it behind, and if we did not pack it with us, 
 there was no other means of getting it home. So Algernon 
 wrapped up the big fish in a sack, which he tied firmly 
 to the back of his Californian saddle, and the other three, 
 secured in the same way, were fastened with buckskin 
 thongs to my saddle. Off we started for the hotel, but 
 the transit of the fish was not so easy a matter ; several 
 times Algernon had to stop and retie the thongs, and still 
 they flopped about and were uncomfortable baggage ; not 
 until 8.30 did we reach our destination, tired and hot after 
 our long day. Several people came to see our fish at the 
 
 ; ( 
 
 I 
 
1 
 
 iW 
 
 kl 
 
 il 
 
 1^ IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 door, amongst them one enthusiastic fisherman — of course, 
 English — who quickly brought scales, and weighed the 
 biggest. " A good twenty-eight pounds ! " he said. 
 
 We were glad to eat our dinner — the chef serving the 
 fish as " Truite i\ la St. Maur " — and even more so to turn 
 into a good bed. 
 
 Jime 2^th. — Connor, the forester of the National Park 
 here, took us for a long ride ; we had two excellent ponies, 
 which " loped " along with us as if they had nothing on 
 their backs ; of course my weight was insignificant, but 
 Algernon, with his Californian saddle, which weighs 35 lbs., 
 must ride 17 stone. 
 
 The National Park, which the Government is making 
 here, is a tract of country about twenty-eight miles square, 
 including some grand mountains and splendid scenery, 
 amongst which they are laying out roads and riding-paths, 
 and in this park they hope to preserve the various game 
 animals of the country ; but for the latter purpose the size 
 is inadequate. We received every kindness and civility 
 from the Superintendent of the Park — Mr. Stewart, who 
 lives in a nice log-house near to the Canadian Pacific 
 Eailway Hotel. 
 
 The Stony Indians killed two mountain sheep close to 
 Lake Minnewonka a day or two ago. The Eocky Moun- 
 tain Sheep, or American Big-Horn {Ovis montana), has a 
 coat of hair like that of a deer, or still more like a caribou ; 
 a large ram stands as high as 3 ft. 6 in. in the shoulder, 
 and weighs over 300 lbs. There is a splendid specimen 
 
vj 
 
 THE NATIONAL PARK, 
 
 59 
 
 a 
 
 of a head at Mr. Stewart's office, which wa8 shot by the 
 forester last winter. These creatures are exceedingly 
 timid, choosing the most inaccessible places as iceding- 
 grounds ; being great climbers, and able to jump from 
 enormous heights, they can often evade the hunters 
 when pursued, and this makes their heads one of the most 
 valued trophies of the Western hunter. 
 
 We rode along with our guide for five or six milos on 
 the same trail as yesterday, and after picketing the ponies, 
 turned off sharp to the right, and walked over very rough 
 ground covered with burnt timber, to a carion which 
 Connor said he had just discovered. We climbed over the 
 large charred logs, which was not a very clean amusement, 
 for a few hundred yards, and then entered the caiion, 
 which I can better describe as a deep ravine, almost 
 closing over our heads, with precipitous rocks on either 
 side, not unlike the eerie places which are occasionally seen 
 in some wild Highland glen. The shades of the big pine 
 trees somewhat darkened the carion, still we were able to 
 admire the lovely mosses and lichens which grew in the 
 richest profusion among the fallen timber. 
 
 As it seemed to me probable that we might come across 
 a bear, and as none of us had brought even a revolver, I 
 declined to go further ; for in such a place it would have 
 been impossible to run away, for we could only go slowly 
 over the windfalls, and a bear visited thus in his own 
 stronghold might resent intrusion. On our way in, Connor 
 had shown us a place where he had seen one only three 
 weeks before. Bears are extremely fond of fruit and berries 
 
 / ^ 
 
1 
 
 
 
 
 '' , 
 
 
 
 i ' 
 
 ii 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 J 
 
 ■\ 
 
 M 
 
 n 
 
 i\% 
 
 M 
 
 
 6o IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chai-. 
 
 of ail kh^ls, and, when in season, these creatures are 
 ger erally found where they are growing in any quantity. 
 lldiAj in the morning and just before sundown are the 
 best times to find bear. 
 
 We got back for a late dinner, and in the evening heard 
 Liszt's 2nd Rhapsodic, beautifully played by an American 
 lady on the new Steinway grand piano in the music-iooni ; 
 a treat hardly to be expected in the middle of the Rockies. 
 
 June dOth. — A very early start and a delightful 
 morning ride brought us again to Lake Minnewonka, 
 where we fished all day. We had a fair wind and sailed, 
 which enabled us to get much further than last time, and 
 had f'.nother excellent day's fishing. 
 
 Our bag of Thursday weighed 42 lbs., tliis day's fifteen 
 fisli weighed 51 lbs. ; we got one fine trout of 12 lbs., two 
 of 8 lbs., and the resf. from 6 to 4 lbs. We lunched about 
 eight miles down the lake, at a very pretty place with a 
 shingly beach and nicely-timbered bank. Our boat- 
 man (by the w;iy, a gentleman), who, for some reason 
 best known to himself, had chosen this rough life, had 
 thf ughtfully brought cups, plates, knives, tea and a 
 ke'tlj; and as we had plenty of trout, and a good fire, 
 we soon had some cooked, and enjoyed an excellent lunch. 
 The Indian manner of cooking fish we found best; the 
 fish is split down the middle, boned and stretched out like 
 a kipper on a long split stick, the lower end of which is 
 stuck into the ground ; the fish is placed lengthways, and 
 the upper end of the split is then secured with a stiip of 
 
v.] 
 
 A YORKSHIREMAN. 
 
 6i 
 
 bark. The skin side is turned to the fire, and left to broil, 
 and tJie fish is afterwards, if large, turned, and the other 
 side treated in the same way ; but with a small fish, cooking 
 on one side is sufficient. 
 
 I never could understand how it was, that though I often 
 saw the Indians cooking fish without salt, when dono they 
 seemed not to require any. Was i; for the reason that 
 hunger was the best sauce, or that being freshly out of the 
 water, the flavour of the fish was so good that it required 
 nothing to improve it ? 
 
 I found tea also was much more palatable without milk 
 than I would have imagined: when no luxuries can be 
 had, one soon learns to do without them, and the people 
 who live on hardy fare seem contented enough. 
 
 To-day, however, we met an exception in a rough-looking 
 miner, who hailed from Barnsley in Yorkshire. As we 
 were nearing the shore of the lake after our day's fishing, 
 we heard a considerable flow of language, not of the 
 choicest, emanating from the interior of the log shanty 
 where our boatman lived. The latter explained that the 
 miner there was a " rough lot," and thiit we had better leave 
 him alon'3 : on landing, however, we were surprised to find 
 that the said rough customer liad taken thv. trouble to 
 bring in and saddle our ponies. We thanked him and 
 talked to him for a few minutes ; he told me that he bad 
 been in two bad colliery explosions since arriving in 
 Canada, and had come to the Lake to rest and recover 
 from the effects of them. He had been six years in the 
 Dominion, but said that, when he got to work again, he 
 
 
 m 
 
 
i 
 
 i. 
 
 62 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 hoped to save $100 and go home to Barnsley. " In the 
 old country," he said, "when sick, we are well looked 
 after ; in Canada we are well paid while wt. can work, but 
 if we get ill, no one cares." 
 
 He took off his hat, and showed us he had hardly any 
 hair, it had all been burnt oif at the colliery accident at 
 Nanaimo in Vancouver Island, where fifty Chinamen were 
 killed, this poor fellow saving his life by climbing up a 
 rope in the air-shaft. 
 
 I said to him, " No pay would compensate me for 
 passing so much of my time in the dark." "Oh," he 
 answered, " we boys like it," and we parted. 
 
 July \st^ Sunday. — Algernon and I went to church, 
 and joined in the English service in the Methodist Chapel. 
 
 In Canada there is a heavy fine for any one compelling 
 another to work on Sunday. The Canadian Pacific trains 
 do not leave Vancouver or Montvpal on that day, though 
 those that have started previously continue their journey. 
 
 t: 
 
 SI 
 
 July 2nd. — Algernon and a man from this hotel went 
 off to try and get a bear to-day. They returned in the 
 evening tired out after a tremendous walk over the 
 mountains, having only seen a porcupine, w-hicli they shot 
 on the roof of an old lumber-camp they found in the 
 valley the other side of the mountains they had crossed 
 over. 
 
 The following extracts were quoted to us by Dr. H., 
 who was a long while in the employ of the Hudson's Bay 
 
v.] 
 
 THE HUDSON'S BA V COMPANY. 
 
 63 
 
 ' 
 
 Company. There were many interesting entries in the 
 old Hudson's Bay Company's journals and entry-books 
 kept at the different forts ; but some years ago most of 
 the oldest books were unfortunately destroyed. 
 
 " Dec. 31st, 1795. Served out a quart of mm per man ; 
 the evening spent in innocent mirth and jollity. 
 
 "Jan. 1st, 1796. All the Indians drunk about the 
 place, great trouble in keeping order." 
 
 The following entry appears even of an earlier date, 
 and must have come from the far north. 
 
 "The Company's cook, a lad of 16, having been carried 
 off by the Esquimaux, three out of a party of six passing 
 Esquimaux were seized as hostages until the return of the 
 boy." 
 
 Here there was a break of five years in the journal, 
 and it did not state if he was recovered : probably not, 
 from the following : — " Had a row with the three 
 Esquimaux detained. They were s^ut, and their ears 
 pickled in rum, and sent on to tlieir tribe, to show them 
 what had happened." 
 
 This treatment appears somewhat harsh, but retributive 
 justice overawes savages as nothing else has power to do. 
 
 To the Hudson's Bay Company we owe a debt of 
 gratitude, for they were the pioneers of civilization in the 
 North-West. They were the first to open up an organized 
 system of trade in this wild region, and always dealt 
 honestly with the Indians, keeping good stores, and by 
 just dealing earned their respect. 
 
 At the earliest fur sales, the bidding was dune, as it was 
 
 \ 
 
 Mi 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
; t' 
 
 J %* 
 
 ;:i V! 
 
 64 IMFEESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 called, " by the candle." As each bale of furs was put up 
 to auction a candle was lighted, and the person bidding- 
 last, as the candle went out, got the furs. The candle 
 burnt about two minutes. 
 
 July 37x1. — News from Montreal brings the inte.'ligence 
 of 30 deaths from sunstroke ; also of intense heat in 
 Manitoba, with a temperature of 105". Here the weather 
 is quite delightful, even a little chilly in the evening. 
 
 The Indian legend of Lake Minnewonka runs thus: 
 One of the first Indians who saw this lake did so by 
 climbing to the top of one of the highest mountains which 
 surrounded it. In the lake he saw an enormous fish, so 
 large that from where he stood it looked the whole length 
 of the lake, to which he therefore gave its present name, 
 The Lake of the Evil Spirit. 
 
 Near Banff there are five hot sulplmr springs ; the two 
 principally used flow from the central spur of Sulplmr 
 Mountain, 800 feet above the level of Bow river; the 
 main spring issues at the rate of a million and a half 
 gallons daily, and has a temperature of 115". A short 
 way from it there is anotlier, witli a temperature of So'^. 
 Bound these springs have lately l>cen erected small 
 bathing-houses, where liut baths can be obtained, the 
 water being brought in pipes from the springs; a 
 (|uarter-dollar is charged for a bath. I heard that, besides 
 sulphur, iron and thirteen other substances occur in this 
 water, and that it is specially IjcneHcial in rheumai-isni 
 and skin diseases. We saw a pair of crutches hanging up 
 
 % 
 
 i< i 
 
THK liUW lilVtK. 
 
 ['It face p, {\4. 
 
 r^ 
 
W> 'r 
 
 ^1 ! 
 
 ' ' 1 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 'I 
 
 
 I 
 
 ilil Its 
 
 M^; 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 ■A 
 
 i; 
 
v.] 
 
 BANFF HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 65 
 
 I 
 
 in the trees. On a board below was printed, " The owner 
 of these has left the springs — cured ! " 
 
 Ha., a mile from Banff are more hot springs, one in a 
 large cave ; the only entrance to it used to be by a funnel- 
 shaped hole in the roof, through whicli people were lowered 
 by a rope ; this has now been improved by an opening 
 from the side through a gallery. In tliis natural chamber 
 is a pool 30 feet wide where the water comes bubbling 
 up ; however, the fumes of sulphur are too strong to be 
 pleasant. A few yards from this is the Basin, a large 
 plunge bath in the open, surrounded by overhanging 
 rocks. Here most of the visitors to Banff enjoy a swim. 
 Very hot sulphur baths should not be taken without 
 the advice of a doctor, as they have a lowering effect on 
 the action of the heart ; here, as in other places, we met 
 persons .'iuftering from the abuse of them. 
 
 There are two neat Swiss chalets built at the cave and 
 basin, containing dressing-rooms ; tea can be obtained in 
 them, and as they are only half a mile from the town, 
 they are most accessible, and consequently most popular 
 with tourists. 
 
 The Banff Hotel is lighted by electricity, but under the 
 present nianagement it is turned off at ten o'clock; a 
 most awkward custom this proved, as we were in the 
 midst of packing for a start at 5 a.m. when out went the 
 lights. We fortunately got candles, which helped us 
 through our difficulties. 
 
 \ ! 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
66 lAIFJiESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 t 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Vancouver — Victopja. 
 
 " Primeval forests ! virgin sod ! 
 That Saxon has not ravished yet." — Joaquin Miller. 
 
 I 
 
 July Ath. — Left Banff at an early hour before daylight. 
 The clerk at the station was very troublesome about our 
 saddles ; said they must follow us. We afterwards found 
 there would have been no difficulty in checking them to 
 Vancouver with the other baggage had we put them into 
 a packing-case with handles — a useful thing to know. 
 The system of checking baggage through to its destina- 
 tion, which is in general use all through Canada and the 
 States, is excellent and saves much trouble. You hand 
 your luggage over, and receive checks in exchange. On 
 presenting these at the end of your journey, you receive 
 yaur bel«>ngings. 
 
 The morning was loA^^ly, with a few showers, wliicli 
 nmde the mountains more than ever grand. The words of 
 the Canticle kept recurring to me: "0 ye luuuutilitla (UI<1 
 hills, bless ye the Lord ! praise Him and magnify ttim ful' 
 
 V% 
 
VI.] 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 61 
 
 . 
 
 \ 
 
 ever ! " On leaving Banff for Vancouver, the railway runs 
 alongside the Bow river, and through well-timbered 
 valleys. On the left lie the Vermilion Lakes, where 
 there is good trout-fishing, and in the distance is seen 
 Mount Massive and the snow peaks of many others of 
 the range. On we go, past Castle Mountain, which towers 
 above us in one sheer precipice of 5,000 feet, and the 
 further we travel in this direction the more grand and 
 impressive the scenery becomes. Many people obtain a 
 permit to ride on the cow-catcher of the engine. We 
 were contented to look at the scenery from the platform 
 of the car, and for this purpose we had camp-stools placed 
 outside. 
 
 While we made the ascent to the station called Stephen, 
 an extra engine of enormous power was attached behind 
 us ; thus we reached the summit of the Eocky Mountains. 
 
 All the gradients on the Canadian Pacific Eailway which 
 exceed 1 in 100 are concentrated on the 134 miles from 
 the Bow river, three miles east of the summit of the Eockies, 
 to the Albert Canon on the Illecillewast. From Steplien the 
 line descends rapidly, passing the beautiful Wapta Lake, 
 and crossing the deep ravine of the same name, now more 
 commonly known as the Kicking-Horse Pass. The 
 scenery here is almost terrible in its grandeur ; and as we 
 rushed along, we could only marvel at the triumphs of 
 engineering skill which have enabled men to overcome tbe 
 tremendous difficulties of constructing a railway through 
 this place. High over our heads we see many grand moun- 
 tains, the liighest peaks of which are hidden from our view 
 
 F 2 
 
 <i 
 
 ("it 
 

 I 
 
 68 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 by snow and mist, wiiile far below rushes the mountain 
 torrent. The Canon rapidly deepens, till beyond Palliser 
 the mountain sides become vertical, rising straight up 
 thousands of feet. Down this vast chasm the railway and 
 river go together. Ledges are cut out of the solid rock, 
 and the track crosses and re-crosses the ravine, turning 
 and twisting in every direction. 
 
 On leaving tlie Rockies behind us, we passed through 
 the little mining-town of Golden City, situated near the 
 Columbia river. 
 
 An excellent steamer runs up this river for eighty 
 miles to the Columbia lakes. It is a pleasant trip, and 
 only takes three or four days; and in late autumn the 
 lagoons along the river-side are the haunts of thousands 
 of wild-fowl. 
 
 ' From Golden City the range of the Selkirk Mountains 
 extends in an apparently unbroken line from the S.W. 
 to the N.E. Near here is the oldest log-camp in the 
 Mountains, where a Government engineering party, under 
 Mr. Walter Moberly, C.E., spent the winter of 1871. 
 
 I classed our journey from Banff' to Vancouver into 
 three interesting divisions. Each was beautiful, but 
 entirely different. 
 
 1st. The Kicking-Horse Pass and the Eocky Mountains. 
 
 2nd. The passes through the Selkirk Mountains, and 
 the views of the Great Glacier. 
 
 3rd. The Canons and valley of the Eraser river. 
 
 The last-named is supposed to be one of the finest 
 salmon rivers in the world, though, to a sportsman, it 
 
 'f 
 
▼fcl 
 
 GLACIER HOUSE, 
 
 69 
 
 is a disappointing fact that the salmon here will not take 
 ally. 
 
 From Golden the line gradually ascends at the rate of 
 IIG feet to the mile, and soon the C/oliimbia river is left 
 1,000 feet below. The mountain sides here are densely 
 timbered with enormous trees ; the great size of the 
 Douglas pine, spruce, and cedars was surprising. 
 
 The Hnest of all the mountain peaks along the line is the 
 one named Sir Donald, which seemed to rear its rocky 
 and vast pinnacles close against the sky. 
 
 The princii)al difficulties in the construction of this 
 part of the line were caused by the mountain torrents 
 rushing down through narrow gorges, over which the 
 trains had to pass by bridging, snow-sheds, or tunnelling. 
 
 The highest of these bridges is crossed at Stony Creek, 
 it is 295 feet above the water, and the highest bridge in 
 the world, and is constructed entirely of timber. There are 
 over six miles of snow-sheds in the Selkirks. Without 
 these the line could not be kept open in winter, on account 
 of the avalanches, or " snow-slides," as they are called here. 
 
 As we neared the "Glacier House," we had our first 
 glimpse of the Great Glacier, which looks like an 
 immense river of ice ; but although it is enormous, several 
 of those in Switzerland are larger. 
 
 A good hotel has been built here by the Canadian 
 I'acific Eailway Company. 
 
 We continueti the descent from this place, and the loop 
 was soon reaclu'l, wjiere the line made several startling 
 twists and turns, lirsu crossing a valley leading from the 
 
 
 »-,3 
 
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 X 
 
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 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 1.25 
 
 •£ ^ lli£ 
 
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 1.4 
 
 1.6 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
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 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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 76 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Eoss Peak Glacier, then touching for a moment on Ross 
 Peak ; and from there doubling back upon itself. The con- 
 struction of the engine and carriage wheels of American 
 railways render these sharp curves practicable, and they 
 have these loops now on many other railways in the 
 States. We saw lovely flowers and shrubs on the rugged 
 slopes of some of the deep ravines, and in several of the 
 mountain valleys red lilies, columbines in endless variety, 
 waving ferns, strange grasses, hemlocks, and bulrushes. 
 
 A missionary with his sick wife joined the cars at a 
 place called Field, and the whole of the following day 
 she was lying with the curtains drawn across her bed, in 
 the same car in which we were all travelling. Later, at 
 one of the stations where we stopped, a doctor came 
 to see her, but, owing to the short time the train 
 remained there, he could do little for her. The husband 
 took refuge in tears, and seemed utterly overcome by his 
 troubles. I felt sorry for them. First warning them that 
 I was not a lady doctor, I offered to see liis wife. She 
 was a poor, nervous, hysterical woman, very ill certainly, 
 but not dying, as she supposed. A little cheering up did 
 wonders. I wanted medicine ; none was at hand. Fortu- 
 nately I remembered Algernon had in one of his bags a 
 bottle of castor oil of rough quality for softening the 
 leather of his boots. I dosed the poor lady >vith this ! 
 and before they left she was certainly better. 
 
 I have always been told three things are safe to try in 
 case of illness : 1st, hot bath ; 2nd, a dose ; 3rd, put the 
 patient to bed. 
 
 1 
 
VI.] 
 
 CHINESE LABOURERS. 
 
 7» 
 
 The husband was a Methodist minister, and they were 
 on their way to Cariboo for mission work among the 
 miners there, when she was taken ill. They had be^^ at 
 Field for a fortnight, and were now coming by train in 
 order to be near a doctor. They were both extremely 
 helpless people; he looked ridiculously young, and she 
 physically unfitted for the wild and comfortless life she 
 had before her. Some people have such powers of mind 
 that they rise above all bodily weakness, and cannot be 
 hindered by physical infirmity from anything they under- 
 take. She, poor soul! was not one of these fortunate 
 characters. 
 
 The helpless are always to be pitied, and are, I am 
 sorry to say, looked down upon by working men who can 
 " turn their hands to anything." 
 
 One suggestion I would like to make to the directors 
 of the Canadian Pacific Ilailway Company, that in the 
 interests of the majority there is absolute necessity to 
 provide separate accommodation for sick persons. To 
 travel for days with sick and suffering people (as we had 
 to do more than once) who would fain have quiet, and 
 cannot stand the lea.sL noise or motion, is hard on every 
 one. The difficulty, I fear, will remain unsolved if extra 
 payment is required, as many invalids would be unable 
 to pay more than for a sleeping carriage. 
 
 Gangs of Chinese labourers were at work on the line, 
 and we passed their little camps, where little rickety tents 
 held aloft by a few sticks of bamboo seemed their only 
 shelter. In these camps thirty or forty men live, sub- 
 
 ■Ki 
 
7a IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 sisting principally on rice aiid a little dried fish, quite 
 content so long as they are making enough money with 
 which to return to their own country. They are excellent 
 labourers, very industrious and, as a rule, honest, working 
 for lower wages than the white men. This is one of the 
 many reasons why there is such a strong feeling against 
 them. Tliey lower the rate of wages in a country where 
 they get a footing. Nearly all the domestic servants at 
 Vancouver and in Victoria are Chinese. People living 
 here told me they did not know what they should do 
 without them, and in Victoria they have their own quarter 
 in the city. 
 
 All along the Caiion of the Eraser river reminded me of 
 the scenery in the Highlands of Scotland on a large scale. 
 
 The railway seemed often to run on trestles of wood 
 fastened to the solid rock, which often goes in one sheer 
 precipice down to the rushing river below, the water of 
 which appeared a mud colour. 
 
 We had glimpses of Indians fishing for salmon from 
 time to time ; sitting in their dug-out canoes, they looked 
 picturesque. The salmon they smoke and dry for their 
 winter food. 
 
 The train passed through many tunnels, and when at 
 last the old and nearly deserted town of Yale was reached, 
 we felt we were getting near the end of our journey. 
 Formerly this was an important place, the head of navi- 
 gation on the Fraser river ; and from it by the old 
 government road, which followed the course of the river, 
 the Cariboo and other ^ mining districts were reached. 
 
 ( 
 
VI.] 
 
 VANCOUVER. 
 
 73 
 
 
 Now the railway has changed everything, and consequently 
 many nice-looking little wooden houses, with their 
 patches of garden, are closed and deserted. A feeling of 
 sadness came over me at the sight of pretty little desolate 
 homes. The apple and cherry trees, of which there were 
 many, were in full bloom, and the rich green colouring 
 of the valley, with the broad river flowing through it, gave 
 an appearance of prosperity which in reality did not exist ; 
 for, the moment the railway took the trade from the place, 
 the inhabitants migrated. 
 
 After Yale was 1 ilt behind, we passed into more open 
 country, and seemed to be continually crossing creeks and 
 lagoons, which, with the sunshine of early morning on 
 them, looked lovely. Then as we approached Vancouver, 
 we came into heavily-timbered country, and at last reached 
 tlie terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, Vancouver. 
 
 In May 1886, the site of this town was occupied by 
 dense forest, the trees being of enormous size. During 
 the two following months a clearing was made, and a 
 town built ; in July of that same year it was entirely 
 destroyed by fire, one house alone remaining. With the 
 usual energy of the " western man," the following day 
 building was recommenced. Vancouver now has a popu- 
 lation of 5,000 people ; there is an excellent harbour, and 
 a regular steamship service to Victoria, Vancouver Island, 
 China, Japan, San Francisco, Alaska, and Puget Sound 
 Ports. Land has already become of great value in the 
 town of Vancouver, and in a few years it will be an 
 important place. 
 
^^ 
 
 74 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 We went on board the steamer YosemitS here ; after the 
 usual delay in getting our luggage, we steamed oft for 
 Victoria, Vancouver Island, which is 80 miles distant. It 
 seems rather stupid to have called the new town, which 
 is the terminus of the railway, by the same name as the 
 island, as it must sometimes lead to confusion. 
 
 The sea was like a mirror, and therefore I was able to 
 enjoy the beautiful scenery. As we left the harbour, we 
 saw on our left the range of high mountains, known as 
 the Coast range, the peaks of which were still white with 
 snow; splendid forests stretched in every du-ection, and 
 as these were left behind, we passed numbers of prettily- 
 wooded islands. 
 
 Far to the south, in American territory, the peak of 
 Mount Baker, 13,000 feet, rears its solitary, cone-like crest 
 into tlie sky ; 3,000 feet of this mountain are covered 
 with perpetual snow. 
 
 We arrived about sunset at Victoria, and were surprised 
 with the smallness of the harbour; the best harbour 
 on the island is at Esquimault, a few miles north of 
 Victoria. 
 
 JuIt/ 7th, Dryad Hotel, Victoria. — Instead of house- 
 maids here Chinamen do the work, and do it very well too, 
 except that they have an awkward way of rushing into 
 the rooms without knocking ; but as I had an inner 
 room only accessible through Algernon's, this did not 
 art'ect me much. It seemed odd at first not to be able to 
 ask the Chinamen for what was wanted, but there was: a 
 
VI.] 
 
 VICTORIA, 
 
 75 
 
 . 
 
 set of diminutive boys called "bellboys," who seemed 
 able to make them understand. 
 
 We went for a long drive, visiting the dry dock at 
 Esquimault, but I am persuaded that our Jehu, for some 
 reason of his own, kept going round and round, perhaps 
 by way of lengthening our pleasure and his remuneration ! 
 Tlie carriages are heavy lumbering landaus. I find 
 many are sent out from England, the inside being filled 
 with goods, and the wheels being also put inside. No 
 doubt they are unsaleable at home, and they are got rid 
 of in this way. 
 
 Victoria is a quiet little place, with many nice houses 
 standing in their own gardens. Honeysuckle grows in 
 the greatest profusion up the sides of the houses, and in 
 festoons over the verandahs. The native honeysuckle is 
 the red variety; but, in Victoria, where they prefer 
 everything English, they have planted the sweet-smelling 
 English kind, which now grows most luxuriantly every- 
 where. 
 
 There is a cathedral here, and many churches of other 
 denominations. The Bishop of Victoria is at present 
 in England. We went to see his garden, which is one of 
 the prettiest in the place. Mrs. Hills, the Bishop's wife, 
 took the greatest interest in it, but she died some inonl/hs 
 ago. A brown retriever sat howling piteously on the 
 door-step of the house, and we were told that ever since 
 her death this poor faithful animal had thus mourned the 
 loss of liis mistr 's in this way ! 
 
 There is a fine hospital at Victoria, entirely managed 
 
y« IMPHESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 by Boman Catholics. Another large one is now being 
 built for the Protestants of this place. We saw also the 
 house of the Roman Catholic Archbishop, who has just 
 been murdered. 
 
 The coal here, and in fact all down the Pacific coast, is 
 supplied from the mines at Nanaimo. Mr. Dunsmuir,* 
 who now owns these mines, began life as a labouring man. 
 His career reads like a fairy tale : — Returning from work 
 one evening, he found the indications of coal. Being too 
 poor to develop the mine himself, he waited, and ultimatelj'' 
 found two Englishmen ready to invest £10,000 apiece 
 in the enterprise. He soon bought them out, and now 
 possesses the whole mine, from which he has realized an 
 enormous fortune. He has been exceedingly generous 
 with his money, and is greatly respected, and is virtually 
 the builder and owner of the only railway in the island — 
 that from Victoria to Nanaimo. 
 
 Sunday, Jxdy 8th. — A glorious summer day. We went 
 to St. John's Church, which is no distance from the hotel, 
 and thoroughly appreciated the service after having been 
 out of reach of a church for weeks. The rector, the Rev. 
 J. Jenns, gave us most excellent sermons both morning 
 and evening, and from him and others we received much 
 attention and kindness. 
 
 July 9th. — ^We walked up to the barracks in the 
 morning. Colonel Holmes and Major Peters showed us 
 • He has died since we were in Victoria. 
 
VI.] 
 
 CONDITION OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 77 
 
 everything of interest in the place. A battery of artillery 
 is stationed here. I asked to see the medals some of 
 the men wore ; they were given after the last half-breed 
 rebellion, which was heaJed by Kiel, who was afterwards 
 hanged — a fate he richly deserved. 
 
 At Fish Creek, where one of the principal engagements 
 took place, twenty out of the sixty men in this battery 
 were killed. The Indians — more especially the Blackfeet 
 and Bloods — are great warriors when they get on the 
 war-path, so that this rebellion would iiave been much 
 more serious if the Indians had joined the half-breeds. 
 It was in a great measure prevented by the cowboys, 
 who told the Indians that if they went on the war-path 
 they would shoot down their women and children. This 
 had the effect of keeping them quiet. The power of the 
 Indians is now pretty well broken, as they have so many 
 intertribal quarrels that they seldom or never combine, 
 and without combination can do little harm to the rapidly 
 increasing settlers. 
 
 The Indians along the coast make a good living by 
 catching salmon in the salt water with the spoon, and at 
 certain seasons they can be caught in this way in the 
 harbour of Esquimault, and give good sport. 
 
 July llth.—Ux. T- 
 
 -, who arrived here last night, 
 Algernon, and I started on a fishing expedition to the 
 Cowichan Lake. In a useful little note-book which 
 Algernon treasures, we find this entry : " When in Van- 
 couver Island, be sure and try Cowichan Lake for salmon." 
 
78 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 "We had procured our provisions and a tent from the 
 Hudson Bay Stores here. We left Victoria early in the 
 morning by train, and after two or three hours' journey 
 got off at a station called Duncan, after the first settler, 
 who came here twenty-six years ago — a nice old man, 
 with a pleasant wife. He had engaged Indians for us, and 
 done all he could to start us comfortably. 
 
 While we were packing our luggage on the waggon at 
 Duncan, one of the horses was much terrified when he 
 winded a bear. Two men could hardly hold him, and 
 until we started he shivered with fright. No doubt the 
 power of scenting danger is a great protection to animals 
 who would be otherwise helpless. 
 
 The bear wliich caused all this alarm was not very 
 formidable — no larger than a spaniel. An Indian had 
 brought him in from the woods a few weeks before, and a 
 funny little fellow he was, so droll in his movements. 
 He ran about all over the place, seeming greatly to enjoy 
 a game of romps with the dogs. A squaw brought a 
 pailful of berries to sell ; some were given to him. He 
 was so much afraid that the dogs would take them that he 
 say down, encircling them with his paws, and devoured 
 them with the greatest haste. When he found that the 
 pail had gone to the kitchen, he made three sudden raids 
 in that direction, but each time was circumvented 
 by his owner. He was very miscliievous, and climbed 
 like a cat. We saw him run up a scaffolding-pole, which 
 reached above the second floor of the hotel, with the 
 greatest ease. Black bears, of which this was one, climb 
 
VI.] 
 
 FOREST TREES. 
 
 n 
 
 well. They are not so savage as grizzlies, for the former 
 will seldom attack a man unless wounded. 
 
 We jolted along in our waggon through the most 
 beautiful woods I had ever seen. The great cedar-trees 
 towered Tar above us, and also magnificent specimens of 
 the Douglas pine and spruce. We felt glad tliat the 
 lumbermen with their relentless axes had not yet disturbed 
 the harmony of tlie place,. Here and there we saw where 
 a tree had been felled to make room for a waggon to pass 
 on the trail. 
 
 Our driver told us that once after a storm he had 
 found no less than thirty-five fallen trees across the 
 trail; wlien we see their size, we imderstand the labour 
 entailed in chopping. Of course, when the trail was 
 cleared after tlie storm, many of them were not disturbed, 
 but the track was carried round them. 
 
 We were told of a tree near Cowichan Lake 89 feet in 
 circumference, but we did not see it, and rather doubt its 
 existence. In the forest fires the Douglas pine does not 
 suffer so much as other trees, owing to the great thick- 
 ness of its bark. The trunks are often charred and 
 blackened, but still the tree grows in great luxuriance. 
 In the marshes and swampy grounds of these woods is 
 found a great leafy plant whicli is called by the settlers 
 skunk cabbage, of which bears are extremely fond. When 
 they emerge from their winter sleep, they search for and 
 devour it greedily. When the hybernating season is over, 
 these animals are in good condition, but a few weeks 
 afterwards they become extremely thin. 
 
8o IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 > 
 
 Mountain lion, lynx, and deer of several varieties are 
 also found in these woods, and in winter a great many 
 timber-wolves. Tree-grouse also abound ; they are some- 
 what larger than the Scotcli grouse, perch in the trees, and 
 if alarmed, when on the ground, run, but if in a tree, they 
 remain perfectly still while one approoches within a 
 few yards of them, evidently trusting to their colour for 
 concealment. On this account they are commonly known 
 by the name of " fool hens." In Canada there are no less 
 than five varieties of this beautiful bird.* 
 
 Some parts of tlie trail were very rough. The pole 
 bent like a bow as our waggon jolted down some of the 
 steep gulches. This looked alarming; but in the wilds 
 one thinks little of these things, and becomes accustomed 
 to all kinds of tracks and modes of transit. Often we 
 had to hold on tight to prevent being jerked off the 
 waggon over stumps and cahots (holes). 
 
 Physical weakness and infirmities are hard to bear in 
 all places, but those who are delicate and unwilling to 
 rough it, should not attempt difficult expeditions in this 
 country ; great energy and an utter disregard for the 
 comiorts of life are required the moment the beaten track 
 is left ; but for the strong, healthy, and vigorous, camping 
 out means rest and enjoyment ; troubles seem left far 
 behind, while one lives from day to day in close contact 
 with the beauties of nature ; and I cannot but feel that many 
 
 * 1. Cock of the Plains — Tetrao (centrocercus) urophasianus. 2. 
 Dusky grouse — Tetrao ohscurus. 3. Sharp- tailed grouse — Tetrar> 
 (centrocercus) Phasianellm. 4. Euflf grouse — Tetrao umbellu$. 5. 
 Pinnated grouse. 
 
VI.] 
 
 CAMPING OUT. 
 
 St 
 
 men worn out with sedentary work in large cities would 
 have their nerves and bodies invigorated were they to try a 
 montli or two of repose in these vast solitudes, instead of 
 remaining at their post until health is utterly destroyed. 
 
 We had been told we should find an hotel near Cowichan 
 Lake ; we did find a log-house, but with little in it, so 
 dirty and comfortless we did not care to remain there ; so 
 having procured the loan of a boat, as our canoes were 
 not to arrive until the morrow, we put our kit into it, 
 and rowed to seek a camping-ground. 
 
 By this time evening was closing in, and ni> first 
 experience of cam]^ing was rather a rough one ; the brush- 
 wood was so thick that we had to "swamp it" out v.ith 
 an axe ; when this was done, the tent up, and the fire 
 lighted, things looked better, though to me the place 
 appeared weird and cliill in the evening light ; to Alger- 
 npn it was nothing, he having spent years in the woods in 
 times gone by. 
 
 The sun, which had thrown a flood of golden light over 
 everything, now disappeared, leaving us in the ever- 
 increasing darkness to make the best arrangements we 
 could for the night. 
 
 My advice to campers-out is, to be prepared for every 
 inconvenience, for, however complete are the arrangements, 
 generally something is forgotten ; make the best of it, 
 feeling it is but a shifting scene in the great drama of life, 
 and though this camping-ground is damp, and overgrown 
 with bush, and there is an ominous and disturbing buzzing 
 of insects, to-morrow's camp may be dry and delightful. 
 
msmmmm 
 
 «« 
 
 
 t ' I 
 
 82 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 The first misfortune happened to a large glass bottle of 
 home-made raspberry jam, which the good woman at the 
 hotel at Duncan, had allowed us to buy, after seeing it 
 made. This slipped from my hands whilst I was getting 
 out of the boat, and the bottle broke in a thousand pieces. 
 Owing to the scarcity of fruit and vegetables, jam becomes 
 a necessity when camping out. More misfortunes ! On 
 unpacking we found that towels and flour, which the 
 people at Hudson Bay Stores at Victoria had promised 
 to put in, were missing ! A real disaster ! 
 
 Supper was cheering after our long day ; a boiling kettle 
 has a world of music in its hum, and to its melody we 
 listened until it boiled. Our tea was excellent, and when 
 one sees how easy it is to have really good tea, it is 
 annoying to think how many people give it in an un- 
 drinkable form to their dearest friends — or otherwise — 
 at nve o'clock, who may chance to come in late, more hot 
 water being the unfailing remedy ; or else, what is quite as 
 bad if not worse, a liquid is offered which tastes like 
 essence of senna, because the hot water is not forthcoming. 
 
 I dozed off on my rough bed, thinking of the words of 
 the song, "My lodging is on the cold ground." Being 
 unaccustomed to sleep in a tent, I found myself listening 
 to every sound ; and I dreamt of grizzlies, the dreams of 
 bears turning into the odour of fine bacon, and awoke to 
 find it daylight, and the men preparing breakfast by the 
 camp fire. We repacked our provisions, leaving them to 
 be picked up on our return, and rowed back to the hotel. 
 Three uninviting-looking towels were all the proprietor 
 
 " 
 
 \ 
 4 
 
VI.] 
 
 COWICHAN HOTEL. 
 
 83 
 
 of 
 
 >^ 
 
 4. 
 
 could spare. Judging by his and his sons' appearance, 
 I should say they were a toilet article seldom used by 
 themselves. 
 
 A bar-room, in the corner of which lay unopened cases 
 of provisions, soon attracted our attention, and by diving 
 into numerous boxes, we soon found flour and other things 
 we wanted ; and having made out our own bill on a piece 
 of cardboard, the Doctor said he would tell us what we 
 owed on our return ; this, I may add, he did not fail to do, 
 and of course charged exorbitantly; but remembering 
 Sir John Falstaffs reflection that " young men must live," 
 we were glad to get his things at any price, as without 
 them we should have been unable to proceed. 
 
 The Doctor's son told me his tale of woe ; how he hated 
 the place and the life, that they had nothing but dis- 
 comforts of every kind to contend with, that they used to 
 live at Ealing where all was happiness, in a comfortable 
 home, and of how his father had come here with the idea 
 of making money. Not until we all became merry while 
 unpacking their boxes of provisions did we lure a smile 
 into his unhappy face. 
 
 The few unwary travellers, who, seeing tempting 
 notices of the " Cowichan Hotel " — " a Paradise for 
 Sportsmen," come from Victoria, and finding no accom- 
 modation, and notliing but discomfort, leave as soon as 
 they can, sadder and wiser men, one night generally being 
 more than sufficient experience of the sort of paradise it 
 proves to be. 
 
 G 2 
 
84 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT. [chap. 
 
 CHAPTEK VII. 
 
 CowicHAN Lake — Our Hawaii Indians — Down 
 
 THE Eapids. 
 
 "In the valley by the river, , 
 
 In the bosom of the Forest ; 
 And the forest's life was in it, 
 All its mystery and its magic, 
 All the lightness of the birch-tree, 
 All the toughness of the cedar, 
 All the larch's supple sinews ; 
 And it floated on the river 
 Like a yellow leaf in Bxxi\xmn.."— Longfellow. 
 
 Our Indians came in their dug-out canoes a long way- 
 up-stream to join us here. A slow and tedious journey, 
 owing to the many " portages "* on the river. We were 
 delighted, while waiting, to see them arrive; after an 
 hour's rest they were ready to start again. Two 
 Indians paddled in each canoe, and there was plenty 
 of room for all our things, when the arrangements were 
 completed. Only two of them spoke English, and of that 
 only a few words. 
 
 * " Portages," places where the canoe has to be carried. 
 
 
HAP. 
 
 VII.] 
 
 OUR INDIANS. 
 
 85 
 
 way 
 ney, 
 vere 
 an 
 wo 
 nty 
 vere 
 )liat 
 
 All of them, however, chatter Chinook, a sort of jargon 
 originally used in trading with the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany. Most Indians on the Pacific side of the Selkirk 
 Mountains speak this jargon (of which there are only 
 three hundred words) as well as their own language. 
 
 Our four men were of the Hawati tribe, most excellent 
 boatmen, but three out of the four were singularly ugly 
 and flatfaced ; " Sam," the tallest Indian, was the inter- 
 preter of the party. At the stern of Sam's canoe sat 
 " Chuckumlilac ; " unlike the others, he had the eagle 
 nose so typical of the Eed Indian ; his straight black hair 
 was cut square on his neck. They were all dressed in 
 red shirts and blue overalls, with brightly-coloured 
 pocket-handkerchiefs tied round their heads, this arrange- 
 ment being partly to protect the head from the sun, and 
 partly to keep their liair out of their eyes. In the other 
 canoe were George Haltin and " Jim," the former the best 
 hunter in the district; last fall no less than 100 deer 
 fell to his rifle. A funny-looking little man he was, with 
 an enormous head; he preferred going barefooted, and 
 crept about like a snake so quietly and silently. He 
 carried his Winchester rifle ; as we paddled along I asked 
 him which he preferred, his rifle or his squaw, and judging 
 from the way he hugged the weapon when the question 
 was interpreted to him, I fear the poor squaw was not in 
 it. Jim, the last of tlie four Indians, sat at the stern of 
 Algernon's canoe, and was also a good hunter. 
 
 They were very active men, and, if short of provisions, 
 could paddle all day on little food. Exercise seemed 
 
 II 
 
 \i 
 
 wm 
 
m 
 
 86 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 second nature to them, but when this was over, their only 
 idea seemed to be eating or sleeping. We amused our- 
 selves fishing as we paddled along up the lake, and called at 
 our old camp, for the things we had left behind in the 
 morning ; towards evening we camped in quite a charm- 
 ing spot, I should think twelve miles from the starting- 
 place. Our tent was pitched on the borders of a shingle 
 beach; close by was a running stream wending its way 
 through alder-trees; behind us were thickly-wooded 
 forests, and as we walked into the great woods, which 
 stretched away miles from the shores of the lake, we 
 were struck by the wonderful beauty of the scene. 
 Fallen timber obstructed our way and had to be climbed 
 over every few yards ; the varieties of many-hued maples, 
 spruce, and cedar, blending as thry did with the richly- 
 coloured mosses and lichens which hung in great festoons 
 on every side, were to me new and strange, and the flash 
 of some humming-birds and bright butterflies, as they 
 flitted quickly by, disturbed by our presence, gave 
 animation to the scene. 
 
 We enjoyed our supper of freshly-caught trout; the 
 Indians broiled them for us, and Algernon's bread made 
 in the frying-pan was also most successful; these things 
 we supplemented with bacon, baked potatoes, some fresh 
 butter (brought from Victoria) and a plentiful supply of 
 tea, which one drinks at all times here without any bad 
 effects. Hunger is after all the best sauce, and cooking 
 to us being a novelty, we were much pleased with our 
 small feats in that line. 
 
 ( 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
VII.] 
 
 CAMPING OUT. 
 
 87 
 
 Tlie shingle beach made rather a hard bed ! gravel and 
 pebbles cannot be like a spring-mattress, consequently 
 my bones ached for a little time after getting up, but it 
 was dry, which our beds of the previous night certainly 
 were not. Sleeping in the open air is very different from 
 repose in a comfortable bed in a house, but has this 
 advantage that one always awakes cheerful and refreshed ; 
 and even the sluggard, were be here, would not care to 
 linger with daylight and sunshine round him everywhere. 
 Algernon and his hunter departed early with their rifles, 
 and not long after returned with a deer. The Indian's mode 
 of carrying it was strange ; after skinning the animal, he 
 put all the good meat and haunches into the skin, of 
 which he made a sack, and thus carried it back to camp. 
 
 With two of the Indians, I went fishing ; here the fly 
 seemed useless. First of all I tried a large, then a small 
 one, and after that a Scotch burn trout fly, but all with no 
 success. In the middle of the lake we saw two Indians 
 fishing, and feeling instinctively that they would know 
 best what to use in their own water, I signed to our men 
 to join them, and we found at the bottom of their canoe 
 about twenty-four beautiful trout and charr {Salmo salve- 
 linus), varying in size from about two to six pounds each. 
 The owi.v,.o of the boat were a man and his squaw, who 
 lived at the foot of the lake. The squaw sliowed me their 
 spoils with evident pleasure. After looking at me as if 
 I were a curiosity from the British Museum, she devoted 
 her attention to our flies, which she regarded most con- 
 temptuously. They then showed us a spoon with which 
 
 :^i 
 
 IP 
 
88 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 they were trolling, and baited us a hook with a piece of 
 silvery-looking trout. 
 
 Our luck from this time began to change, and we soon 
 had a plentiful supply of beautiful fish for our supper, 
 and some of these, I have every reason to believe, were 
 charr, for they were singularly rich in colour, seven rows 
 of gold and yellow spots on either side, the back similar 
 in tint to a mackerel, the under part being silvery white, 
 with a beautiful pink stripe down both sides, the lower 
 fins bright scarlet, the head small, the tail and back fins 
 mottled like tortoise-shell, and the flesh of a rich coral 
 colour.* 
 
 Trolling is not the same pleasure as fly-fishing; there 
 is no skill required in drawing in hand over hand on a 
 strong line a three or six pound trout; but we, being 
 hungry, were glad to get them. For when neither butcher 
 nor fishmonger are near, the question of how to fill the 
 pot becomes a most interesting one. 
 
 The Indians were of course delighted with the venison, 
 and to-night's supper of venison steaks and broiled trout 
 was a pleasant change. The Indians generally cook their 
 meat and fish in the way I have already described, on 
 sticks before the fire. These Indians also fried venison 
 steaks in oil, adding Worcester sauce after taking them 
 
 * The two species of trout — yellow trout (Sa^mo fario) and the great 
 lake trout (Salmo ferox) — can always be distinguished from charrs by 
 the characteristic of having two complete rows of teeth in the vomer 
 or central bone in the roof of the mouth, wliilst in oharrs the vomer 
 has only a few teeth, and those in the most forward part. — 11. 
 Gholmondeley Fennell. 
 
 i 
 
VII.] 
 
 COWICHAN LAKE. 
 
 89 
 
 / 
 
 off the fire, the result being equal to any chefs method. 
 How they eat ! One Indian can consume more meat than 
 four -white men, often 10 or 12 lbs. at a sitting ! The 
 Hudson Bay allowance of pemmican for an Indian boy 
 used to be 6 lbs. per day. 
 
 We saw a richly-coloured snake gliding about among 
 the stones while we were waiting for supper, but he got 
 into a hole before we could kill him. 
 
 July 14:th. — An early start. Breakfasted 5 a.m. To- 
 day caught twenty-seven trout, the largest 6 lbs. 
 
 The lake scenery was very beautiful, reminding me of 
 Scotland ; but the mountain sides here are more densely 
 wooded, being covered with enormous timber. 
 
 We camped at the head of the lake under huge cedar- 
 trees, the most beautiful camping-ground imaginable. 
 Much fallen timber and drift-wood lay about here ; the 
 latter proved useful for the camp fires. 
 
 The timber by which we were surrounded would be of 
 immense value if in an accessible place ; but the fallen 
 trees lie here until they become covered with masses of 
 ferns and lichens. These mosses and lichens are of the 
 richest colours and rarest beauty. 
 
 Some day doubtless saw-mills, railways, and steamboats 
 will change this lovely scene, but fortunately for the 
 present, nature remains undisturbed. 
 
 Our Indians sleep in the open air, and have their own 
 camp fire, round which they talk in low musical voice", for 
 hours, while they whittle out new paddles for their canoes. 
 
 \ n 
 
 i 
 
 . X 
 
90 IMPHESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 
 .1 
 
 J\dy 19>th, — Four days have passed in this delightful 
 paradise ; regretfully we must leave it. A glorious haze 
 liung over everything in the sunlight of early morning ; 
 by 6 A.M. the canoes were packed, and we quitted this 
 lovely retreat. The heat was overpowering as the hours 
 wore on, and though it was a day of days for painting, 
 the reflections in the water being so wonderfully clear 
 and beautiful, still lying back in the canoe and doing 
 nothing seemed pleasanter, while the ceaseless stroke of the 
 paddles, and the varied and melancholy cries of the loons 
 (the great northern diver), of which there were many in 
 this lake, were the only sounds which broke the stillness. 
 
 In this way we paddled along ; and when we landed, 
 more tlian half way down the lake, it was afternoon. 
 Our Indians gathered berries — we found wild raspberries 
 on bushes 12 to IG feet high. Eesting in the shade was 
 ploasant, and having arranged my blanket on a mossy 
 bank under my weary head, I fell asleep, and at length 
 awoke to find our Indians ready to start again, so we all 
 took our places, and off we went. 
 
 They paddled and we killed time by trolling as we went 
 along ; part of the time I fished with a spoon on a trout 
 rod, and landed a 4-lb. trout after excellent play, which 
 amusement the Indians failed to appreciate, their only 
 idea being to kill. We camped when it was getting dark. 
 Our Indians were very sulky, and we had to do every- 
 thing for ourselves. They are often difficult to deal with, 
 taking offence for no apparent reason ; the only thing to 
 be done was to leave them alone to recover their tempers. 
 
 ' 
 
 1l;i:i 
 
vir.] 
 
 WE LEA VE THE LAKE. 
 
 9X 
 
 An early start arranged for to-morrow. 
 
 I bathed in the lake most days wliile the men were 
 preparing breakfast, it was so refreshing, and the water 
 not in the least cold, and one day heard a wliirr over my 
 head, but could not see anything for a moment, and then 
 descried two tiny humming-birds hovering above me. 
 They looked like large bright-coloured butterflies at a 
 little distance. 
 
 One of the Indians brought us a huge dragon-fly, but 
 just as we were about to transfix him with a pin he 
 fortunately for liimself took flight. 
 
 1 
 
 July X^th. — Indifferent fishing as we paddled along 
 to-day. We called at a raft on which, in a wooden 
 " shack," * lived a young Englishman named Maitland, 
 where we left a fine trout in return for one he had given 
 us on our way up. He, like many others, had bought a 
 block of land, and was waiting for times to improve, a 
 common way of trying to make money out here. 
 
 We stopped at the foot of the lake, at the hotel, which 
 looked as uninvitmg as ever, and again saw the melan- 
 choly son of the house, and gave him a 6-lb. trout in 
 iiope of cheering him; and having paid our bill for 
 provisions, we said good-bye to the Cowichan Lake and 
 entered the river. Our Indians had another fit of the 
 sulks when Algernon refused to treat them to whisky at 
 the hotel bar, as we were now going to run a series of 
 rapids. 
 
 * Rough board hut. 
 
 ^(-1 
 
9a IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 One of the laws of the country most strictly enforced 
 is that against giving Indians spirits in any form, and the 
 fine for the infraction is $50. In spite of this law, people 
 do give it them occasionally, and Indians have been 
 known themselves to inform against the man who has 
 stood treat. Spirits almost always affect them in the 
 same way ; for the time they become perfectly mad, and 
 moderation is unknown among them. After our return 
 we heard that " Chuckumlilac," the Indian who sat in the 
 bow of my canoe, had killed his brother witli a blow from 
 his paddle after one of these drinking-revels ; so we felt 
 thankful we had not encouraged them at a time when all 
 their powers of quickness and daring were absolutely 
 necessary for our safety. 
 
 On we went, faster and faster. One moment the Indian 
 in the bow used his paddle, the next he seized his pole, 
 and, with the most marvellous quickness and dexterity, 
 eluded many dangers from rocks and logs which, had we 
 touched them at the pace the canoe was going, would have 
 upset us all into the tumultuous stream. By inserting 
 his pole in the bank or on some projecting point of rock, 
 the canoe was made to swing round, and in this way we 
 avoided many obstructions which threatened our frail 
 craft. 
 
 The delights of the journey — how can one recall them 
 all? The flowing river was a bright green colour, and, 
 though very deep, we could see stones lying at the bottom 
 of some of the quiet pools, and occasionally some frightened 
 trout darted away as the canoe passed. When we came 
 
 '• 
 
VII.] 
 
 SHOOTING THE RAPIDS. 
 
 93 
 
 ,. 
 
 to white foam and rough water, we knew we were nearing 
 a rapid, and I sat very still, wondering how we should 
 pass through. The little lithe Indian seated in the how, 
 Chuckumlilac, chose his course at a glance. I shall always 
 see him as he appeared to-day; his brown, walnut- 
 coloured skin, his black hair, cut squarely round his neck, 
 his thin wrinkled face, and his sharp eagle eyes ; round 
 his head was tied a coloured handkerchief, and the rest of 
 his dress was in harmonious tints of blue and red; in 
 his belt hung a large knife. With what grace and ease 
 he moved ! 
 
 Sam, the other Indian, who paddled in the stern of the 
 canoe, we could not induce to be cheerful ; he did not like 
 the white men. Several times he had complained that 
 they had been hard to the Indians, and doubtless he had 
 cause for doing so. As the country gets settled up, the 
 Indians are losing their hunting-grounds, and the more 
 discerning of their race see that they are being crowded 
 out by the white man, though the Indians both round 
 Victoria and the coast are such good workers that they 
 are still pretty well holding their own. There is a pride 
 and dignity in the people one cannot help admiring. We 
 heard both of their dirt and dishonesty, but had to 
 complain of neither. Several times when I dropped or 
 mislaid things in camp, they were returned to me, and the 
 men took the greatest trouble in searching for anything 
 that had been lost. 
 
 To return to my Indians. The two canoes kept 
 together whilst running down the river, Algernon's leading 
 
•mm 
 
 94 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 the way. Tho ease with which the Indians steered 
 through tlie rapids was wonderful. Rocky channels, 
 narrow enough already, were often made still narrower by 
 fallen timber, in many cases this left only room for the 
 canoe to pass ; in others the axe had to be used to clear a 
 way. When there was a sharp bend in the river, and not 
 room to swing the canoe with the paddle or pole, the 
 Indian in the stern jumped out on to a log or rock, and 
 with a line from the stern swung her into the best channel, 
 and jumped in just as she fled down the rapid. 
 
 The risks of a trip on a river full of rapids are con- 
 siderable. One mistake in a bad place with pole or 
 paddle either upsets or smashes the canoe, and then the 
 chances are against a safe landing. When we reached 
 the first falls which were too high to run in the canoes, 
 we jumped out into the shoal water, and wading from 
 rock to rock with our " kit," got to the bank, and there 
 clambered along as best we could to the foot of the falls. 
 The canoes were half-carried, half-floated to a point from 
 which they could be lowered by ropes over the fall, which 
 done, our canoe was then reloaded, and we were off again. 
 
 I was glad that my tweed petticoat reached only to my 
 knees, and with long boots, a flannel shirt, and Norfolk 
 jacket, I could jump from rock to rock in a way that 
 surprised even myself. All the men were occupied with 
 the baggage and canoes, so it was fortunate I could get 
 about without help. Only twice, when the portages were 
 through rather deep water, Algernon carried me over. 
 
 In Canada and New Brunswick, where Algernon has 
 
VII.] 
 
 CHARMS OF OPEN-AIR LIFE. 
 
 95 
 
 principally hunted, the canoes used were generally birch- 
 bark ; here they are all dug-outs, generally of cedar ; they 
 are made on a beautiful model for the work they have 
 to do, and are very light, the wood being only half an 
 inch in thickness. 
 
 Sometimes, as we got into heavy rapids, it seemed 
 impossible that they would allow themselves to be guided, 
 but as we glided through the water at about ten miles an 
 hour, sometimes rushing past a large rock, at others within 
 a few inches of a sweeper, as they call the trees which 
 hang across the river just clear of the water, we saw how 
 skilfully the Indians steered, and felt when each danger 
 was passed the same sort of excitement as when clearing 
 a big fence with hounds. The banks of the river were 
 lovely, green with maidenhair ferns and mosses, whilst 
 high on both sides towered big trees. 
 
 The day's work being over, we camped on a bank, and 
 amused ourselves fishing for an hour or two before supper, 
 and were able with the fly to catch a few nice trout ; and 
 after a good supper were lulled to sleep by the murmur of 
 running waters. 
 
 Wonderful is the rest to body and mind in this kind of 
 wild life. I marvel no more that weary and disappointed 
 men go into the woods to find oblivion. , 
 
 " No tears, 
 Dim the sweet look which Nature wears." 
 
 There is often solace in the sight of God's grand and 
 glorious works, and care is dwarfed, for human plans 
 
i 
 
 I ■ 
 
 96 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 appear insignificant indeed, compared with the great 
 designs of creation. 
 
 The camp was roused at 3 . 30 a.m., and after a hasty- 
 meal of biscuits and tea, we paddled down the remainder of 
 the Cowichan River ; heavy dew and mist hung over every- 
 thing when we started, but after an hour or two the day 
 cleared and was bright. One of the Indians shot a deer from 
 the canoe, but we could not find it in the *' chapperal." * 
 
 We shot a good many rapids this morning, but none so 
 rough as those liigher up the river. On reaching Duncan, 
 we were greeted by several squaws, who seemed to have 
 much news to tell our boatmen. We ourselves were glad 
 to hurry off to the nice little inn, which goes by the name 
 of the Guamachen Hotel, where we enjoyed breakfast 
 which we had not been obliged to cook for ourselves. 
 
 We then called on Duncan and his wife — nice Scotch 
 people who were the first settlers here, and after whom 
 the village takes its name. They have a farm and 
 orchard, and seemed getting on well. With his assistance 
 we settled up with the Indians, and left for Victoria by 
 the only train which passes this place daily from Nanaimo. 
 
 It is very difficult to keep one's clothes tidy in camp, 
 as perpetually the fire " wants fixing up," or the kettle 
 boils over, or perhaps one sees the frying-pan sliding 
 quietly into the fire ; then, clean or dirty, one must go to 
 the rescue. I found the best way to avoid having to wash 
 my hands perpetually was to wear a long pair of dogskin 
 gloves, and to keep them on most of the day. 
 
 ' * The bush. 
 
 u. 
 
 ] ;; 
 
 i^.' 
 
VIII. 
 
 ( 97 ) 
 
 N 
 
 imp, 
 ittle 
 ling 
 to 
 
 skin 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Victoria — Portland — Notes about Alaska. 
 
 " The brotherhood not of equality, nor of hkcness, but of giving and 
 receiving ; the souls that are unlike, and the nations that are unlike, 
 each receiving something from and of the others' glory." — Bicskiii. 
 
 Victoria, August 20th. — Played tennis in Sir Matthew 
 Begbie's garden. He was absent, but we went there with 
 the clergyman's daughters. The iron churcii of which 
 their father is rector was erected by Lady Burdett Coutts. 
 
 There was great excitement about an Indian rising on 
 the Skena river. The Ixittery of artillery quartered at 
 Victoria left for tlie Skena the day before we arrived. 
 All the trouble was caused by stupid interference on the 
 the part of the police. An Indian dispute had been 
 settled by the offender being shot — ^.justly according to 
 their views. The police tried to arrest the chief who had 
 done this, and, failing to do so, shot him dead. All the 
 neighbouring Indians n se, and the few white men were 
 surrounded in a fort near Hazelton. In Vancouver Island 
 the Indians have not received the same fair treatment as 
 
 Ik 
 
98 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 in the North- West Territory ; reserves have been taken 
 from them, and others they do not like substituted ; this 
 they deeply resent. 
 
 We found it veould cost us $60 each to make a journey 
 to San Francisco. We thought and spoke of taking 
 another trip to the north end of this island, to a place 
 called Comox, but the curator of the museum, a good 
 sportsman, told Algernon it was too early in the season 
 to kill mountain goats; so we decided to go to San 
 Francisco via Tacoma, 2' A took berths on the steamer 
 which sails on Monday. 
 
 We visited the Chinese quarters of the city, which we 
 found very interesting ; there were many excellent shops 
 where oriental goods of all sorts were sold. We found 
 the Chinese extremely civil and obliging. I bought a pair 
 of large earthenware dragons, which we sent home ronnd 
 Cape Horn, in one of the Hudison's Bay Company's steamers. 
 
 Afterwards we spent a quarter of an hour in a Chinese 
 druggist's shop — all the medicines were dispensed in a 
 dry state, and we were told were infused by the buyers 
 according to the prescription which the chemist wrote 
 outside each packet, 
 
 A duty of $50 is imposed on all Chinamen lauding in 
 this country; this appears hard, as they do most of the 
 labour here. In the old days some people tried import- 
 ing servants from Hlngland, but this did not answer, they 
 generally married directly, and we were told of an amusing 
 instance. A gentleman had engaged three maid-servants, 
 but the vessel in which they sailed from England stopped 
 
 > 
 
VIII.] 
 
 VICTORIA. 
 
 99 
 
 a 
 
 in 
 the 
 ort- 
 hey 
 3mg 
 nts, 
 ped 
 
 at San Francisco cp, route; they all married there, 
 whilst the unfortunate man who had hoped to have the 
 comfort of English servants, had their journeys to pay 
 for, though he never even saw them. 
 
 The opening of tlie Canadian Pacific Eailway has made 
 Vancouver Island much more accessible. Many people 
 here remember when it took six weeks to reach it from 
 England, now the journey can be accomplished in fourteen 
 days. 
 
 After dining with friends, we rowed up an inlet at the 
 entrance to a river inside the harbour called " the gorge," 
 which looks like an ornamental lake. There were many 
 pleasure-boats filled with happy-looking people enjoying 
 the lovely evening, and in the harbour we saw steamers 
 preparing to sail for all parts of the world, and I almost 
 wished we were going in one of them to the Sandwich 
 Islands, to China or Japan. 
 
 The Princess Louise and the Marquis of Lome were 
 at Victoria for three months when he was Governor- 
 General of Canada, and they were most popular with all 
 classes. An amusing anecdote is told about the Princess. 
 Soon after her arrival she went into a shop and bought a 
 small toy. Having forgotten her purse, she said, " Will 
 you trust me ? " The man looked at her, and said, " Yes ; 
 I guess you are good for half a dollar." On finding out 
 afterwards that it was the Princess to whom he had spoken 
 in this way, he was so mortified he said he would have 
 given everything in his " store " not to have done it. 
 
 After a busy evening, packing, by 11 p.m. we were on 
 
 II 'J, 
 
 1 :■ 
 
 fil 
 
 ■^1 
 
 m 
 
loo IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 the Tacoma boat, on our way to San Francisco. The 
 steamer did not leave the harbour until 4 A.M., so we had 
 a good sleep on board ; but when she began to move the 
 vibration was very great. The old story — powerful 
 engines and a very light hull. 
 
 We had a capital cabin, with a private door opening to 
 the deck. The ship was built like an American river- 
 boat, with two tiers of cabins and old-fashioned beam- 
 engines ; food vile, though plentiful. The route was down 
 the Puget Sound. The scenery was rather disappointing, 
 the only fine sight being Mount Ranier, or Tacoma, as it is 
 now called, forty miles off and 14,600 feet high, a solitary 
 snow -covered peak, rising into the blue sky. We called at 
 Port Townshend, and afterwards at Seattle. The ster.mer 
 remained here three hours, and we amused ourselves by 
 walking through the town — a very primitive place, only 
 two or three streets being finished, the rest of the blocks 
 unoccupied.* 
 
 More money is made and lost in Canada and the 
 States by gambling in town lots in new cities than in 
 almost any other way. This place seems no exception, 
 and we were told that there was a " hoom, " on here, which 
 means that the prices of land were rising to some absurdly 
 liigh figure. 
 
 On our arrival at Tacoma we found quite a large town, 
 where four years ago stood a pine forest. They have 
 called their city after the mountain. The steamers start 
 from this place for Alaska; the Oregon and Californian 
 
 ♦ Since we returned home the place has been destroyed by fire. 
 
VIII.] 
 
 TOCAMA. 
 
 lOI 
 
 Eailway runs also from here in connection with the 
 Northern Pacific Eailway. The hotel is finely situated, 
 standing on a high cliff overlooking the valley and 
 mountain beyond ; at high tide the sea covers the low 
 ground, making it look like an immense lake ; for weeks 
 at a time the mountain is invisible, being enveloped in 
 clouds, but we were fortunate in seeing it. 
 
 We observed during dinner something which appeared 
 to us unusual. Two small children (Americans), a girl 
 and boy, the latter certainly not more than five years old, 
 and the girl perhaps a little older, came in at 8 . 30, sat 
 down at a table near us, and ordered their dinner, even 
 looking over the " luine carte " which was handed to them. 
 Fortunately they drank milk, but they ate a most un- 
 wholesome dinner, of which lobster and large ice creams 
 were two of the component parts. The menu card must 
 have puzzled them as one of the dishes was " Tetc dc veau 
 en torture," I thought more likely it would be the little 
 boy who would thus suffer. When tliey finished w^ 
 asked the small person if he had enjoyed his dinner ; he 
 crossed his arms behind his back, surveyed us leisurely, 
 and merely said, " You bet." 
 
 A large cinnamon be ar belongs to the hotel ; he 
 seems well looked after, and appears good-tempered, and 
 devoted to his keeper. We were amused to see this huge 
 creature playing with a broom as if he were a kitten. 
 
 
 I 
 
 July 2oth. — We left Tacoma for San Francisco. We 
 had some difliculty in getting to the station, owing to the 
 
102 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 want of caiTiages, and had to drive with some odious 
 people who took the best places, and were both rude and 
 disagreeable. 
 
 The journey to Portland was not very interesting ; the 
 Columbia river is crossed near here by a large steam 
 ferry, which takes two trains over at a time. It is a very 
 fine river, and all Canadians say here should have been the 
 boundary of Canada, as it forms a natural frontier ; but 
 the boundaries were settled cliiefly in England, where 
 great ignorance then existed as to the geography of the 
 country, and the Viceroy of that time seems to have been 
 equally mistaken in allowing such a boundary as the 
 present one to have been decided on. The story goes 
 that some adviser of the Viceroy's, more sportsman than 
 patriot, said, " Let the Columbia go. What is the good 
 of a river where the salmon won't take a fly." During 
 the run of fish, many thousand salmon are canned 
 daily.* 
 
 Some of the small islands off the coast of Vancouver are 
 half American and half Canadian. Portland itself is on 
 tlie Williamette river, and from Eobin son's Hill, which is 
 in the upper part of the town, we had a magnificent view 
 of the Columbia and Williamette rivers, and of the Great 
 Cascade range with all its glittering peaks, and on the 
 
 * " Until the last three years the canning industry of the Colunxbia 
 showed a steady increase ; in 1883 the total pack was not less than 
 629,400 cases, valued at $3,147,000 : each of the last four seasons has, 
 however, shown a marked falling off, the entire export since 1866, 
 exclusive of the salt pack in barrels and of the large local consumption, 
 amounts to 371,116,000 lbs., or about 25,000,000 lish." 
 
VIII.] 
 
 PORTLAND. 
 
 103 
 
 extreme right, 78 miles distant, the snowy crown of IMount 
 Jefferson. Across the river, 50 miles off, rose Mount Hood, 
 one of the most beautiful mountains on the coast ; to the 
 north-east stood out the crests of Mount Adams and Mount 
 St. Helen's, and in the same direction on a very clear day 
 might be descried the great Tacoma, the monarch of the 
 range ; all these five peaks were white with snow. 
 
 We had a series of mishaps on reaching Portland ; tired 
 of the bad food on the cars, we decided to wait until we 
 arrived there. We were desperately hungry, and on 
 inquiring for the Oregon and California Eailway Station 
 and a restaurant, were told by a crowd of greedy cabmen 
 " both a long way off." Hiring a carriage, we were driven 
 50 yards to the restaurant. There we found an excellent 
 menu and wretched food. Starting again, our driver took 
 us a couple of hundred yards, and again stopped, this time 
 to convey us over the ferry ; his charge so far was $2, and 
 he wanted another to cross the ferry ; but having been 
 sufficiently swindled, we removed our baggage, and 
 dismissed him, the station being on the other side. Thus 
 sometimes fares the globe-trotter ! 
 
 Money is certainly the god worshipped " out West." It 
 was constantly the topic of conversation among our fellow- 
 travellers, until we were weary of hearing about these 
 *' corner lots " and *' booming cities ; " the pursuit of 
 wealth is not so apparent in England, though many are 
 hasting to be rich in our country also. Here it seemed to 
 me so mt..iy had no time for anything else. The haste and 
 unrest, whether in making a fortune, taking a journey, or 
 
 M 
 
 
i 
 
 I! • 
 
 104 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 even eating food, surprised me, and I conld not help often 
 saying to myself, why all this needless hurry ? Happily 
 
 ♦• There are in this loud stunning tide 
 
 Of human care and crime, 
 With whom the melodies abide 
 
 Of the everlasting chime ; 
 Who carry music in their heart 
 Through dusty lane and wrangling mart, 
 Plying their daily task witli busier feet. 
 Because their secret souls a holy strain repeat ;" 
 
 and if this were not so to counteract the materialism of 
 the world, how would it be ? 
 
 July 2^th. — Travelling in heated cars made me wish we 
 were still camping out in the cool green woods. We 
 passed Mount Shasta, 14,440 feet high, and after leaving 
 the volcanic regions of gloomy-looking rocks which lie for 
 many miles round it, we found oursslves running down 
 countless zigzags in the mountains, with uncomfortably 
 short turns at the corners, and diving still further down 
 the valley we arrived in the Cation of the Sacramento. 
 Following the river brought us at last into the fertile 
 country of the Sacramento valley, where prosperous farms, 
 heavily-laden orchards, corn-fields ripe with golden grain, 
 and bronzed peasants, made a happy and abundant land- 
 scape. There was an air about these people which 
 reminded me of Spain, the picturesque grouping and 
 colours which Phillips painted so well; no doubt many 
 of them could tell of Spanish ancestry, and many of them 
 still have Spanish names. 
 
VIII.] 
 
 A TTRA CTIONS OF ALA SKA . 
 
 105 
 
 The " Buffet " arrangements on this railway were very 
 inferior to the Canadian Pacific Kail way. This is a matter 
 of consideration when one travels three days in succession. 
 At some of the places where we stopped to dine, the 
 food was uneatable, the tables nearly covered with small 
 dishes containing many things, but nothing good, and the 
 masses of black flies everywhere were not appetising. 
 After all, there are many worse things than the slices of 
 beef or mutton with which we so often find fault in our 
 refreshment-rooms at home. 
 
 The train ran over a skunk in the night. I was awakened 
 in my berth by a stifling sensation, as were all the other 
 passengers, and it was quite twenty minutes before the 
 terrible odour died away. 
 
 We travelled with some pleasant Americans, who were 
 returning from a visit to Alaska. They told us of the 
 delights of a journey there, and from what they said, we 
 regretted that we were unable to go ; they said that with 
 the exception of two places in the Sound, they were in 
 calm water the whole time. 
 
 A trip to Alaska takes nearly three weeks ; and from 
 Victoria to Sitka and back again, with everything sup- 
 plied except wine, the fare is $95 each. 
 
 It is pleasant to hear impressions about new places 
 from people who have visited them ; tlie guide-books are 
 so inaccurate, that very little reliance can be placed on 
 their descriptions. 
 
 The principal sights of Alaska are Mount St. Elias, the 
 highest mountain in North America (19,G00 feet high); 
 
 
 r 
 
 i'jl 
 
 I ; 
 
 H 
 
^ 
 
 xo6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 as yet no party has succeeded in reaching the summit, 
 although several attempts have been made. We heard 
 that the whole distance from base to summit has to be 
 climbed on ice and snow; the "Muir" glacier, the 
 largest in the world, is also seen there, the toe of which 
 measures more than one mile across. 
 
 The State of Alaska was purchased by the United 
 States Government from llussia in 1867, for $7,200,000 ; 
 the value of the seal fishery alone pays the Government 
 4^ per cent, on the outlay. It is a pity it is not English 
 territory, as it lies across the northern boundary of 
 Canada, and abounds in rich mines. "Alaska" is a 
 corruption of Al-ay-ek-sa, the name given by the natives 
 to the mainland, signifying great country. It contains 
 nearly 000,000 square miles of territory ; Sitka, the old 
 capital of the Russian possessions in America, was the 
 religious, commercial, political and educational centre ; 
 with the change of government, came a new people into 
 the country, and the majority of Russians left, their 
 places being taken by Americans. 
 
 At Sitka, there is a fine Greek church with silver gates, 
 built by the Russians. 
 
 The white settlers have not; set the example they ought 
 to have done to the Indians, hence the saying which has 
 passed into a proverb at Sitka, " It takes twenty years to 
 make an Indian into a Boston man, but only six months 
 to make a Boston man into an Indian." 
 
 White men buy the Indian girls from their mothers at 
 ages varying from ten to twenty years, for from $50 to 
 
VIII.J 
 
 DUNCAN'S MISSION. 
 
 107 
 
 $75. The Indian women believe themselves honourably 
 married, and make good wives, but, alas ! the men do not 
 hold the same views, and often leave them. 
 
 The population consists of 17,G17 Esquimaux; 2,145 
 Aleuts; 1,756 Creoles; 5,000 Tinnehs; 0,437 Thleigets; 
 788 Hydahs, and 500 whites ; making a total of 38,843. 
 
 The Metlahkatlah, known as Duncan's mission, is one 
 of the most successful in the far north. For reasons 
 which take too long to explain here, but are never- 
 theless much to be regretted, Mr. Duncan removed into 
 United States territory from British Columbia, taking 
 with him 1,000 Indians, about the most civilised and the 
 finest of their race on British soil. 
 
 ( I; 
 
PF 
 
 108 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 San Francisco and China-Town. — The Chinese 
 
 Question. 
 
 " Tlie strongest recollections seem to be, ' ' 
 
 Like latent music, in the commonest things ; 
 We put our hand upon them passing by. 
 And rudely touch the imsuspected strings." 
 
 Clifford Harrison. 
 
 Occidental Hotel, San Francisco, July 28^/i. — ^We came 
 here late last night, preferring this to the "Palace 
 Hotel," where one is known only by a number ! Many 
 people go there only to say tliat they have stayed in 
 the largest hotel in the world. 
 
 This morning, after breakfast, we mounted one of the 
 Cable Cars at the corner of the street near this hotel, and 
 went a distance of four miles, going iri? f^^aep ascents most 
 part of the way, until the gardens of the Golden Cate 
 Park were reached ; there we changed into a train, which 
 was furnished with open cars ; it took us over a sandy- 
 looking desert to the Cliff House, one of the sights of San 
 Francisco. 
 
IX.1 
 
 CUFF HOUSE. 
 
 Z09 
 
 Tlie Cable Cars amused me, this boiiij,' tlio first time I 
 had seen them ; it looked quite startling to feel them 
 moving along withoit steam or horses, propelled by an 
 underground cable, and they go either up or down hill 
 with equal ease. Carriages are seldom seen in San 
 Francisco, owing to the number of street cars that 
 always block the principal thoroughfares, and people living 
 in the country who have carriages, rarely bring them into 
 the town. 
 
 When we got near the Cliff House wo had some won- 
 derful views of the blue sea, and the great waves breaking 
 all along the coast were Idautiful and grand ; and yet there 
 are many persons " Out West " who have never seen the 
 sea. I met a woman of fifty on our journey from Victoria, 
 B.C., who told me she had never seen either the sea or a 
 mountain until a few weeks before, having spent all her 
 life on tlie prairie. " But," she added, " my man has now 
 made his pile, and we are having a look around." I asked 
 her which impressed her most. She said simply, '* Oh, the 
 ocean ! the longer I gaze the more I love it, until I feel I 
 can never leave it." 
 
 We soon came in sight of the three large rocks, where 
 the sea-lions have their home, and we looked at them for 
 some time through telescopes and glasses ; tlie rocks on 
 which they live are about half a mile from the shore. !N^o 
 one is allowed to molest them ; there are supposed to be 
 about 500 of them, some are enormous, measuring 16 to 
 18 feet in length, and they are very savage if disturbed. 
 Some of the old males are much scarred from fighting, and 
 
no IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 it was curious to observe their slow and awkward move- 
 ments, as they pulled themselves up and off the slippery 
 rocks. On the Sutro heights, above the Cliff House, are 
 charming gardens, laid out by Mr. Sutro ; they are open 
 to the public, and show what can be done by irrigation 
 on this sandy soil ; for there the desert is transformed as 
 if by magic, and all kinds of beautiful flowers grow in 
 the greatest luxuriance. I asked one of the gardeners, a 
 German, the name of a plant which much pleased me ; 
 there were beds of it with flowers of all colours, growing 
 creeper-like on the ground, the bloom somewhat resembling 
 a wild rose. The gardener ga-^e me a large parcel of 
 cuttings, they were portulaccas ; he also gave me cuttings 
 of Mcsemhryanthemum cwdifolmm,, which are pretty for 
 edging beds. I packed and sent them to my gardener 
 in England, but they did not carry. Both these plants 
 can be grown from seed, and thrive well in this 
 country. 
 
 The climate here is perfect : in winter no colder than at 
 this time of year ; indeed, residents consider the month of 
 August the coldest in San Francisco, because of the trade- 
 winds, which, however, did not annoy uf, though they 
 generally blew from two to six o'clock in the afternoon. 
 We heard by our English letters much about the cold and 
 wet summer at home, but with us it has been perpetual 
 sunshine, two wet days at Quebec and one on the 
 prairie being our record for three months. 
 
 An American lady, speaking about Matthew Arnold's 
 article on * Civilization in America,' remarked that, though 
 
IX.] 
 
 CHINA-TOWN, 
 
 III 
 
 severe, it was on the whole true, except when he said 
 that all children read Roe's novels instead of those of 
 Sir Walter Scott. "There he is wrong," she remarked. 
 " In the East they had hardly heard of G. P. Eoe ; on this 
 side he was certainly better known." She also added, " If 
 Matthew Arnold thought so little of our civilization, why 
 did he not show us a better example ? He did not even 
 wear evening clothes at the largest parties he attended 
 in America, which rather annoyed people. As a writer 
 he is admired, but his article was very hard on us as a 
 nation." 
 
 The impression a stranger receives is that Carlyle and 
 Emerson are adored, especially the latter, and that 
 IngersoU holds no place among the learred. His articles 
 have been refuted by several, and most ably answered in 
 a small book, which has reached its eighth edition, and is 
 entitled, ' Notes on IngersoU,' by the Eev. L. A. Lambart, 
 a Catholic priest. 
 
 We wandered all through China-Town. Several guides 
 offered to take charge of us, but we preferrsd seeing what 
 we could by ourselves. If it were not for the ordinary style 
 of building the houses, we could fancy ourselves in Pekin 
 or Canton. There is a population of over 40,000 Chinese in 
 San Francisco. They all live in ihe quarter called " Cliina- 
 Town," apart from every one else, pursuing mostly their 
 own work and trades. We saw Chinese hunying in every 
 direction, for the Celestial is always busy, and therefore 
 in haste. We passed many stores containing good, of all 
 kinds, and by looking throu!,di the doorway we saw how 
 
II » IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 I 
 
 the people were employed. In one shop there were boot- 
 makers at work ; in another sew-ng machines were busy. 
 The Chinese excel in all kinds of labour, and are so frugal 
 that they can undersell the Americans even in cheap 
 tailoring. But here the sweating system is also in vogue, 
 and it is the middleman who is making a profit. A pair 
 of blue overalls (an article of clothing worn by almost 
 every workman) is made by the men employed in these 
 tailors' shops for a quarter-dollar, or one shilling of our 
 money. We passed many provision-shops, and very 
 unpalatable the food looked ; thin pieces of meat, dried 
 ducks, bundles of sausages, and stale pork being the 
 principal things we noticed. There were baskets of 
 vegetables of all kinds in front of the win'^ows of these 
 shops, and these seemed to find a ready sale. 
 
 Then, through a narrow door far under the level of an 
 ordinary cellar, we saw the barber at work in his shop. 
 The front part of a Chinaman's head is kept shaved ; the 
 back is arranged into a pigtail. Where nature has not 
 been bountiful, and I doubt if she Is ever sufficiently so — 
 it makes no difference, as all appear to have black silk 
 plaited in with their hair to make the pigtail longer ; it 
 usually reaches down the back as far as the knees. In 
 China it is thought disrespectful to roll it round one's head, 
 but in this country the Chinese servants do it in order 
 to get the pigtaijs out of the way. When the Chinaman's 
 forehead is shaved and his pigtail arranged, he is by 
 no means out of the hands of the barber, for the inside 
 of his ears have also to be shaved. We saw this being 
 
 f 
 
f 
 
 iX.] 
 
 CHINA-TOWN. 
 
 X13 
 
 an 
 
 done, and rather a disagreeable process it seemed ; but 
 I suppose the Celestial must suffer with the rest of the 
 world 'p(mr etrc hcau. 
 
 We found all the Chinese civil and obliging. Before 
 entering their Joss-houses, as they cull their places of 
 worship, their shops, or restaurants, we asked permission 
 to do so, which was readily granted. Among the anti- 
 Chinese party the custom is to treat the Celestials as 
 rudely as possible. We did not .^ish to do this, nor did 
 the Americans who accompanied us. We went into the 
 shop of a goldsmith, who was beating out gold rings, 
 and we saw some that he had finished. He was 
 working by a small reed lamp, similar to those found in 
 the ruins of Pompeii, and by him also stood a very 
 curious old pair of scales, with which he weighed hvj 
 rings before selling them by weight. Though we did 
 not buy, as we i^assed out he raised his head from his 
 work and nodded to us. 
 
 Our next visit was to a restaurant, and having bowed to 
 the 7 .'MJ *n charge, we passed in. Saw two cooks making 
 ii* i ' ; : JO rolls ; which, when finished, were stamped with 
 a Oh.^ ic ;aark. These rolls are filled with mincemeat, 
 and are :;cxit to Chinamen all over Canada and America. 
 We did not like the taste of them ; and, after sf;eing them 
 passed into the ovens, we went upstairs, in Chinese 
 restaurants here, the higher up you go the more you pay, 
 and for this reason, the houses not being built on the lines 
 ft a Chinaman's ideal, it is only on the upper floor tliat 
 seci iii- n, «ind a garden on the roof with verandahs to sit 
 
 iJ 
 
 M 
 
^IIV .^ . .4 ^ 
 
 RsarmMnmi 
 
 ^mm 
 
 wmm 
 
 Ifi 
 
 114 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 in, can be obtained. On the" first floor we saw an eating- 
 house for the poorer class of workmen ; each tabla being 
 partitioned off from the next with screens. After mounting 
 to the upper-floor, we found ourselves in a charming 
 Chinese house ; all the fittings and furniture were of home 
 workmanship, the chairs and tables being of ebony, 
 beautifully inlaid with mother-of-pearl, while valuable 
 carvings, screens, and lamps were tastefully arranged. 
 Both the Chinese ano ■ lese have certainly perfect 
 taste. Six or eight round .. :9s were neatly laid out for 
 dinner. The dishes were so small, that though there were 
 many of them piled up with fruits, tiny pieces of fish, 
 and other things, it looked to me like a doll's dinner- 
 party, and not a repast prepared for hungry men. Oppo- 
 site to each guest were tiny plates, a china spoon, a pair of 
 ivory chopsticks, and a small glass bowl, containing some 
 kind of liquevr. 
 
 We passed through the kitchen, where several cooks 
 were busily engaged with their tiny pans ; but a hungry 
 navvy would have eaten up everything we saw in a very 
 short time. Can this be all the food Celestials need ? Is 
 the bird's-nest soup so very sustaining, or do they not eat 
 in the quantities Europeans do ? The last question is 
 answered negatively, the problem solved ; Chinamen can 
 live on rice, and nothing else, doing the hardest work in 
 mines, or manual labour all the time; and this is how 
 they can save so much where other men must eat to live. 
 
 We were attracted by the sounds of merry voices, and 
 passed on, and soon were intently watching a dinner- 
 
 [ 
 
 t 
 
 { 
 
IX.] 
 
 CHINA TEA. 
 
 "5 
 
 party from behind a screen. Ten Chinamen were 
 dining together ; by their dress we concluded they were 
 well-to-do merchants — some of whom are very wealthy — 
 they were evidently enjoying excellent jokes ; as we 
 watched them from our undignified position, we observed 
 that in this, as well as in some of the other private rooms, 
 was an alcove, with the opium pipe ; by it, on a luxurious 
 coucli, one of the guests was lying in a sort of stupor, 
 apparently unconscious ; the other guests seemed to take 
 no notice of him, as if there was nothing unusual in his 
 condition. 
 
 We passed into another room, and had tea ; it was nicely 
 served in beautiful oriental china cups. In front of each 
 person stood a covered cup on a little stand : and the tea- 
 leaves were placed in each of these ; a Chinaman came in 
 and poured boiling water from a bronze kettle over the 
 leaves, the cover was replaced, and in a few minutes the 
 tea was ready ; and, with care, was poured into another 
 cup, and the one containing the leaves acted as a kind of 
 tea-pot, and was refilled with boiling water. Excellent 
 tea it was, but somewhat costly ; so much so, that our 
 American friends, who bought 1 lb., had $5 to pay for it. 
 Green tea is preferred, the flavour is more flowery and 
 delicate, when infused being of a pale colour. Our 
 tea was served with plates of cakes, nuts, and ginger. 
 During the time we were having it a band played in the 
 verandah, and such a band ! The noise made by the five 
 niT-'-icians was deafening ; but as three of their number 
 had gongs (or something very like them), and the fourth 
 
 I 2 
 
 
mtm 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 
 
 
 n6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 a drum, it was not surprising. The fifth musician had a 
 sort of trumpet, and when the gongs at intervals ceased 
 playing, the trumpet, single-handed, produced most dis- 
 cordant tones, mingled with wails, which were meant for 
 singing. We were thankful when this performance ceased, 
 though, judging by the acclamations of the rest of the 
 audience, the music was considered excellent. 
 
 We visited several joss-houses, and were saddened by 
 the rows of idols we saw, some of which were very 
 hideous. The Chinese do not pray to the good spirits, we 
 were told, as they do them no harm, but to the evil ones. 
 All these poor souls seem to be in a state of the greatest 
 spiritual darkness, having few redeeming points in their 
 religion. There is no devoutness in their joss-houses, the 
 men who are in charge sleep about the doors ; those who 
 come in to say their prayers write them, and afterwards 
 burn them in an oven. 
 
 Looking in at several uf the opium dens, we saw as 
 much of them as we wished ; we heard enough about the 
 horrors of this vice, and occasionally we passed a China- 
 man who looked like a ghost — an unmistakaMe victim. 
 
 Some of the people we met could not reason, nor even 
 speak quietly on the subject of the Chinese question. The 
 moment anything was said about China or the Chinese, 
 they talked without weighing either their words or their 
 arguments. With such a person it was our fate to travel in 
 the cars for three days, coming from Portland. Unsought, 
 he joined in our conversation, which happened to be on the 
 subject of the Chinese ; he remarked, " The Chinese are of 
 
 \ 
 
 \ I 
 
IX.] AMERICAN DISLIKE OF THE CHINESE. 117 
 
 no use in San Francisco, or, for that matter, in America, 
 and they must go, for they are parasites ; dirty, useless, 
 lying, and dishonest." With some difficulty I was able 
 to remark that at Victoria the Englisli people told me 
 they were most valuable as domestic servants, where 
 no other servants were available, and did a great deal 
 of work; he continued his abuse. "They were the 
 curse of his country, and brought over disease and many 
 other dreadful things." I asked him if he had ever been 
 to China-Town. He confessed that, though he had lived 
 in the city of San Francisco twenty years, he had never 
 been there, nor had he ever allowed liis wife to go, nor to 
 have any dealings with the Chinese. He then advised 
 Algernon not to allow me to visit China-To^vn, as it 
 M'^ould be at the peril of our lives from small-pox, lepros , 
 and other horrors. 
 
 The subject lapsed, as we did not trouble to talk mufh 
 more to him, though for two days we travelled onwards 
 in the same dusty and hot cars. 
 
 I do not know why it is, but when nearing one's 
 destination, ideas are often exchanged, and he again 
 joined us ; but I think he must have forgotten our con- 
 versation of the previous day, for to our amusement he 
 began telling us of the best shops in San Francisco, 
 adding, " When my wife wants Chinese bargains, she buys 
 them of a smuggler who calls once a week at our house ; 
 our home is full of valuable things we have got from him 
 at cheap prices." 
 
 Fancy taking advice from such a creature ! 
 
ii8 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Of course we went to Cllina-To^vn, and profited by our 
 visit ; how often while travelling one comes across these 
 extraordinary types of humanity, who are contradictions 
 in themselves. 
 
 Before ending my remarks about the Chinese, I would 
 quote extracts which appeared in the columns of the 
 Vienna press. The Chinese question is important enough 
 to deserve dispassionate handling, and to call for the 
 highest degree of statesmanship in dealing with it. The 
 extracts are the writing of so great an authority as 
 Baron Alexander Von Hubner, formerly the Austrian 
 Ambassador to Trance, who for years past has been 
 travelling round the world, and who is the author of many 
 learned works. He says : — 
 
 " Whoever speaks of the important changes on the face 
 " of the globe must not allow China to pass unremarked. 
 " The war of England and France against the Celestial 
 " Empire was an historical fact of world-wide importance, 
 " not because of the military successes achieved, the most 
 " famous of which was the plunder and destruction of the 
 *' Imperial Palace at Pekin, but because the allies cast down 
 " the walls through which 400,000,000 of inhabitants were 
 " hermetically closed in from the outer world. With the 
 " intention of opening China to Europeans, the globe has 
 " been thrown open to the Chinese. Who travels no^- 
 " through .lie flowery kingdom ? No one with the exception 
 " of the missionaries whose presence was already tolerated 
 " there, and in addition to these, there were a few explorers. 
 *' But the Chinese are streaming over the greater part of the 
 
IX.] 
 
 THE CHINESE QUESTION. 
 
 119 
 
 tlie 
 Tlie 
 
 " ylobe, and are also forinin*,' colonies, albeit after their own 
 " fashion. Highly gifted, although inferior to the Caucasian 
 " in the highest spheres of mental activity, endowed with 
 " an untiring industry though temperate to the utmost 
 " abstemiousness, frugal, a born merchant of probity ever 
 " true to his word, a first-class cultivator especially in 
 " gardening, distinguished in every kind of handicraft, the 
 " son of the middle kingdom, slowly, surely, and unre- 
 " marked, is supplanting the Europeans wherever they are 
 " brought together. I am speaking of them only as I have 
 " found them. In 1871, the entire English trade with 
 " China, amounting then as now to £42,000,000 sterling, 
 " was transacted by English firms. The four great houses, 
 " one of which was American, were in Shanghai, while the 
 " smaller ones ware distributed among the treaty ports. 
 " Added to these were the middle-men, as the sale of 
 " English imports in the interior of the Empire was effected 
 " by English merchants. In addition to this, the firm of 
 " Eussell & Co. owned twenty steamers, that kept up the 
 " commercial intercourse between the treaty ports extend- 
 *' ing to the Yangtse river. Now-a-days, with the exception 
 " of some great influential English firms, all the same trade, 
 " together with the Eussell steamers, has passed into the 
 " hands of Chinese merchants or of Chinese corporations. 
 " In Macao, for 400 years in possession of the Portuguese, 
 " are to be seen magnificent palaces, some of which date 
 " from the sixteenth century ; they are situated in the 
 " finest part of the city, where the Chinese are not in the 
 " habit of building, and yet the greater part of these palaces 
 
 ri 
 
120 TMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " liave passed by purchase into the hands of rich Chinese, 
 " and are inhabited by them. On my first visit to 
 " Singapore in 1871, the population consisted of 100 white 
 " families, of 20,000 Malays, and a few thousand Chinese. 
 " On my return there the beginning of 1884, the population 
 " was divided according to the official census into 100 white 
 " families, 20,000 Malays, and 86,000 Chinese. A new 
 " Chinese town had sprung up, with magnificent stores, 
 " beautiful residences and pagodas. I imagined I was 
 " transported to Canton. The country lying to the south 
 " of Anglo-China, which a few years ago was uninhabited, 
 is now filling up with Chinese. The number of sons of 
 the flowery kingdom who emigrated to that point and to 
 Singapore, amounted to 100,000 in 1882, to 150,000 in 
 1883, and last year an important increase in these 
 numbers was expected. The Draconian laws, through 
 which efforts have been made in California and Australia 
 to get rid of this inconvenient opposition, are well 
 known. These laws, that stand in glaring contradiction 
 to the philosophic principles of equality and fraternity 
 among all races, despite all efforts to maintain their 
 efficiency, remain a dead letter. I never met more Chinese 
 in San Francisco than I did last summer, and in Australia 
 the Chinese demand is ever increasing in importance. To 
 a man who will do the same work for half-price all doors 
 are open. Even in the South Sea Islands, the influence 
 of Chinese labour is already felt. The important trade of 
 the Gilbert Islands is in the hands of a Chinese firm. On 
 the Sandwich Islands, the sons of the middle kingdom are 
 
.X.] 
 
 BARON HUBNER'S OPINION, 
 
 121 
 
 spreading every year. The North Americans, until now 
 the rulers of that island under the native kings of Hawaii, 
 are already feeling the earth shaking beneath their feet as 
 in vain they resist their inroads. All these things I have 
 seen with my own eyes, excepting in Chili and Peru, 
 countries that I did not visit. From official documents, 
 however, I extract the fact that since 18G0 200,000 
 Chinese have landed there, an enormous number con- 
 sidering the small European population in these countries. 
 Europe with her 300,000,000, China with her 400,000,000, 
 represent, with the exception of India, the two most over- 
 populated parts of the world. Both send their sons t(j 
 foreign climes. They consist of two mighty streams, of 
 which one is wliite and the other yellow. In the annals 
 of history, there is no mention of such immense masses of 
 people. A series of questions now arises. How will the 
 states of the old continent be affected by the emigration 
 of so many of its sons ? Now suffering from a plethora 
 after such a severe fleecing, will Europe remain in a full 
 healthy condition, or similar to Spain, will she lapsr into 
 a state of anemia ? Who can tell ? What fate is in store 
 for the young, rising, aspiring powers of Central Asia, 
 that are neither kingdoms nor republics, and what will be 
 the reactionary effect on the mother country and on 
 Europe ? We do not know. What will be the result of 
 the meeting of these white and yellow streams ? Will 
 they flow peacefully in parallel lines in their respective 
 channels, or will their commingling lead to chaotic events ? 
 We cannot tell. Will Christian society and Christian 
 
 Hfi* 
 
laa IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 !■{( 
 
 " civilization in their present form disappear, or will they 
 " emerge victorious from the conflict, carrying their living, 
 " fruitful, everlasting principles to all the corners of the 
 " earth ? We cannot know. These are the unsolved pro- 
 " blems, the secrets of the future hidden within the womb 
 " of time. What we now distinguish is only the first 
 " overture of the great drama of the coming times. The 
 " curtain is not yet rung up, and the plot is only to be 
 " worked out in the twentieth century." 
 
 Mr. Hayter, the Government Statist of Victoria, and the 
 highest authority on such matters in Australasia, has just 
 issued his computation, from which it appears there are 
 but 31,000 Chinese in all Australia, while the Europeans 
 number nearly 3,000,000. Far from the Chinese pouring 
 into that continent in ever-increasing swarms, they have 
 steadily decreased in number ever since the yield of gold 
 began to fall off". 
 
 Australia is half as large again as tlie Chinese Empire 
 proper, nearly as large as the continent of Europe; in 
 spite of all the foregoing reassuring statistics, there is 
 an absolute panic in America and Australia at this 
 moment on the subject of Chinese immigration ; both 
 countries have now refused to receive Chinamen as 
 immigrants or otherwise, on any terms whatever. 
 
 An American, whose opinion was of some value, said to 
 me, " The real difficulty is that the Chinese do not make 
 citizens; America wants citizens." A Chinaman's only 
 thought is to collect money in order to return with it to 
 China. Even his body, if he dies, must go back there. 
 
( 123 ) 
 
 CHAriER X. 
 
 San Francisco — Monterey — Journey to Vancouyek. 
 
 J 
 
 "Looking seaward o'er the sand-hills, stands the fortress, old and 
 quaint. 
 By the San Francisco friars lifted to their patron saint." 
 
 Uret Ilarte. 
 
 San Francisco, July Zlst. — Algernon went to the Presidio, 
 the military station, which is at Tort Point, and from 
 there had a fine view of the harbour. ^ • . 
 
 We visited the mint, and saw $10 ])ieces being niatle, 
 also saw some bars of gold worth £2000 each which 
 had just come out of the moulds. While ^vaiting to be 
 taken round we were ' amusing ourselves looking at the 
 cases of old coins, when I heard an authoritative voice 
 behind me addressing me thus, " What is that coin ? " and 
 turning to reply, I saw^ a tall, powerful-looking woman. 
 I wondered who and what she might be, and was presently 
 told that she was a well-known lawyer in San Francisco. 
 She looked as if she could argue any point to its bitter end. 
 
 We also visited the mission church of Dolores, the first 
 church built in California ; it was erected in 1776, and is 
 
 i' 
 
 \ 
 
r 
 
 
 ^ii 
 
 124 IMPRESSI0r3 OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 consequently the oldest building here. The little white- 
 washed oluipel did not impress me much, and the altars 
 were gaudy with paper flowers. 
 
 Sir Francis Dr^'ce sailed along the Californian coast in 
 1579, but historians do not agrse as to whether he dis- 
 covered the bay of San Francisco or not. For some unex- 
 plained cause, no settlement resulted froii;i this expedition, 
 the first being made by Gaspar de Portales at San Diego 
 in 17G9. He, with Father Yuuinera Lorra, founded a 
 mission there, erected a cross at Monterey, and continuing 
 tlieir journey northwards, by the merest accident came 
 on the now world-famed bay of San Francisco, so named 
 by them after San Francisco d'Assisi, the founder of tlie 
 order of Franciscans. 
 
 As we were passing quietly 'ilong the street we heard 
 the alarm sound at the fire Ptation, it being 12 o'clock, at 
 whicli hour the engine horses are trained to do as follows : — 
 The moment the alarm sounds, the horses gallop into 
 their pi..ces at the engine in readiness to start for a fire. 
 During the night, if warned by the electric bell, in twenty 
 seconds from the time thgy hear it the engine is off. 
 By cleverly devised mechanism the harness is balanced 
 over the horses in their stalls, the bell communicates witli 
 an electric wire, which instantly drops the harness on 
 the iiorses ; they, knowing the sound of the alarm, at once 
 gallop to the engine. The men kindly sounded the gong 
 for ua a second time, the horses snorted with excitement 
 and galloped for their places, two for the engine, the 
 others for the salvage carriage, and one of the firemen 
 
 >\ 
 
 
 || i 
 
X.] 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 125 
 
 assured me tliat on u dark night they looked round 
 for the light of the fir^ as they galloped along. Charming 
 horses they were, of the Shire breed, and strong, powerful 
 animals. 
 
 An "old engine-horse who had been so hurt last winter, 
 by falling into a drain on his way to a fire, as to be unfit 
 for engine work, was changed into the salvage carriage, to 
 which he strongly objected, and still always galloped to the 
 engine if he got a chance. The fireman told me it was 
 easy to teach a new hcrse his place, but always difficult to 
 make an old ore change his position. 
 
 In the larger stations the men come down a pole 
 from their rooms to their places on the engine, electric 
 wires jerk the blankets off their beds, and this uwakea 
 them. One pull draws on their clothes and boots, and 
 two buttons seem to fix all their garments. 
 
 Woodward's Gardens, which we visited, used to be well 
 kept; but we found them in a miserable state. The 
 gardens were pretty, but to see the poor animals, dirty, 
 neglected, and half-starved, made me quite unhappy ; so 
 much so that I wrote a protest in the form of a letter to 
 the editor of the leading newspaper. We hear the 
 advantages cf a free press, but the letter on behalf of 
 the dumb sulferers, whoie condition I was a xious to 
 ameliorate, never appeared. 
 
 We went to see the Mission Schools for Chinese children 
 at 933, Sacramento Street. I wac assured by many people, 
 who seemed to know everything else about San Francisco, 
 that there were no Christian schools for Chinese children in 
 
 
 W i 
 
126 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 this place. "We saw twenty-one girls here, many of them 
 placed in this Mission by the Society for the Prevention 
 of Cruelty to Children. They appeared to be intelligent, 
 and sang several English hymns very nicely, some of them 
 speaking English with a good accent. Several of the 
 older girls seemed stupified by the ill-treatment they had 
 received during a life of shame and ill-usage in the dens 
 of the Chinese quarter. One poor creature, quite blind 
 and deeply scarred witli small-pox, sat and wept silently 
 in the corner. I thought — 
 
 " He's true to God who's true to man ; wherever wrong is done, 
 To the humblest and the weakest, 'neath the all-beholding sun, 
 That wrong is also done to us ; and they are slaves most base. 
 Whose love of right is for themselves, and not for all their race." 
 
 These children are supported and educated at the 
 expense of different churches in England. 
 
 One incident rather amused me in connection with our 
 visit to this mission. A lady, whose name I do not even 
 remember, who sat near us at dinner at tiie Occidental 
 Hotel, asked if she might come witl^ l e to visit the 
 school. She came ; and when we were leaving, I thanked 
 the matron, and to]d her liow deeply interested we were 
 with all we had seen. My newly-made acquaintance 
 followed, and I heard lier thank the matron for " such an 
 elegant entertainm'in*-, ! " There are several other mission 
 schools for Chinese children, the addresses of wliich I give 
 below.* 
 
 • Methodist Mission, 916, Washington Street; Baptist Mission, 
 Sacramento Street; M'ss E. R. Cable's Mission, 810, Central Avenue. 
 
X.] 
 
 CLIFF HOUSE. 
 
 127 
 
 One could spend a long time in San Francisco without 
 seeing everything. Alas! our time is nearly over. We 
 leave to-morrow for Monterey. 
 
 
 August 2nd. — Spent our afternoon at the Cliff House, 
 going there by the new railway, which winds like a jnake 
 alone the edcre of the cliff. As we came near our destina- 
 tion we were far above the sea, and as we peered down 
 into the depths below, and saw the billows rolling in 
 against these great precipices, though the scene was 
 quite beautiful, our sensations were not altogether 
 pleasing. One might have a magnificent view of London 
 if suspended on a scaffolding from the dome of St. Paul's. 
 Our feelings were something similor to what this experi- 
 ence would be. 
 
 To-day I wanted nothing better than to sit on tho sea- 
 shore and enjoy myself; and surely there never were 
 more wondrous tints in the breaking waves n\ there 
 were on this August afternoon ; and the corals, th(^ 
 brightly -tinted shells, and the seaweeds each had a litlie 
 lesson of nature to give me as I sat silently there. 
 
 " Our hearts are one with the sunlit scene, 
 With the sounds that fill the generous air ; 
 With the seaweeds purple, and brown, and green. 
 With the delicate sandflowers blooming there, 
 With the pink and v.hite shells which lie at our feet." 
 
 The docks here are worth a visit, and from them you 
 can see steamers starting for every part of the world. 
 
128 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 We were much T)leased with the Occidental Hotel ; it 
 
 ■A. ' 
 
 was both comfortable and quiet. We had good rooms, 
 the table \fn,6 excellent, the charges moderati', and the 
 manager, Major Hooj)er, most civil. Fruit and flowers 
 were sent daily to our rooms, and when we left, a 
 beautiful bouquet of pink roses was given to me. 
 
 One night, for dinner. Major Hooper ordered for us a 
 dish of " Pamelos," excellent fish which are only found 
 in the bay of San Francisco, and are considered a great 
 delicacy. These fish were about the size of a whiting, and 
 their flavour reminded mc of whitebait. 
 
 Hotel Del Monti, Montcreij, Auf/ust 4:th. — A four hours' 
 journey from San Francisco brought us to this place. The 
 train passed through pretty country ; for on this white- 
 looking sandy soil anything will grow if it is irrigated. 
 
 The evergreen oaks here takr . the place of olive-trees ; 
 the latter are only beginning to be cultivated here. The 
 oak's foliage, at a little distance, did not look unlike the 
 olive, and the soft grey colouring blended well with the 
 intensely blue sky. The pasture appeared dried up for 
 lack of moisture ; still the cattle fed, and seemed to thrive. 
 In the fields of Indian corn, many of wliich we passed, 
 was the only richly-coloured green we saw during our 
 journey. Horses and cattle gladly eat the leaves of this 
 plant. 
 
 Before reacliing Monterey, our train plunged into a 
 long carion, and on emerging from it we found ourselves 
 at the station of Del Monti. The hotel stands in h vely 
 
 ■ rc>BM»it-»- ^ UM i it 
 
X.] 
 
 SEA-BATHING, 
 
 129 
 
 it 
 
 
 gardens, and is a favourite resort of the people of San 
 Francisco. 
 
 We brought with us an introduction to Mr. Charles 
 Crocker, who ws most civil to us ; but he was in very- 
 bad health at the time, and died shortly afterwards. 
 
 The bathing here was excellent, only more people bathe 
 in the large baths than in the sea. It was very amusing 
 looking on. Many of the girls were good swimmers 
 and some of the men dived well. The most energetic of 
 the bathers generally swam out to the end of the Pier in 
 the sea after having been in the baths ; we saw them 
 capitally from our position above. The bathers have 
 much to learn from Trouville in the way of bathing- 
 dresses, all those worn here being of dark blue with 
 stockinged feet, the only touch of colour were the red caps. 
 The men displayed greater variety in their costumes. 
 When on the pier we saw a somewhat curious sight. The 
 water was very clear, and in it we watched large shoals 
 of sardines pursued by mackerel. The shoals seemed 
 to us about twenty yards in diameter, and circular in 
 shape, and the sardines on the outside were always swim- 
 ming towards the centre in their endeavours to get into 
 safety, and so constantly pushing those already there to 
 the outside. This gave a curiously regular movement to 
 the whole shoal. 
 
 We went for a long drive in the afternoon by the shore 
 and saw the Cypress Grove {Cupressus macrocarpa), the 
 only existing one in the world of this variety. The trees, 
 which stand in a very exposed position, are twisted into 
 
 I 
 
 
 V' 
 
I30 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 all sorts of capricious shapes by the winds of the Pacific 
 Ocean. 
 
 Grey, the Botanist, visited this Cypress Grove, and saw 
 also the Monterey Pine {Pinua insignis) ; he said they 
 ■were both indigenous to this place only. Many are now 
 sent to all parts of the world, and Monterey Pines are 
 being planted extensively on the sandy plains of Califor- 
 nia, their principal merit being that they grow in almost 
 pure sand. 
 
 The Cypress Grove was beautiful, but very difficult to 
 sketch. A sad accident happened while we were there. 
 A good pair of horses had brought us from the hotel, 
 the stupid driver tied them up by the head to one of the 
 cypress-trees, and there left them to their own devices. 
 One of them evidently attempted to roll, and getting the 
 bridle in some way caught up in a branch broke his neck. 
 My attention was attracted in that direction while I was 
 sketching, and seeing the poor horse down, I ran as quickly 
 as I could to his aid ; but he was dead. When the driver 
 came he was much annoyed, and would, if he could, 
 have gladly blamed us for his own stupidity. "We sent 
 him back to the hotel for another horse, whilst we had 
 lunch in one of the sheltered coves. 
 
 The rocks here are covered with masses of bright-col- 
 oured seaweeds, and many large sea-birds flew lazily over 
 our heads ; as we passed along there were several little 
 Chinese camps at different places near the road ; at these, 
 baskets full of polished Ebluna shells were being sold : 
 these shells are of beautiful pink and green shades inside. 
 
 
 1 
 
i 
 
 X.] 
 
 AN UNCOMFORTABLE JO URNE V. 131 
 
 } 
 
 They were five cents per shell ; and the lady/ with whom 
 I was driving bought 200 to decorate the cornice of one of 
 her rooms in New York. The fish that inhabit these 
 shells, after being dried in the sim, are an article of 
 export to China. I was very tired after finishing packing 
 for our departure at 6 A.M. on the morrow. 
 
 We spent the next day at San Francisco, and received 
 the greatest attention and civility from the manager of 
 the Occidental Hotel ; and when we left that evening he 
 kindly packed three baskets for us, one of wine, one of 
 fruit, and one of luncheon. Nothing was forgotten in our 
 luncheon basket, even table napkins were included ; these 
 were Chinese, of curious coloured paper. 
 
 The journey was long, hot, and dusty, and we fully 
 appreciated the contents of the baskets before we arrived 
 at Portland, Oregon, which we did the tl-ird day after 
 starting. 
 
 On leaving Portland we found the cars very much 
 crowded, as there had been a meeting of the Teachers' 
 Association, and many of the women were returning home. 
 
 Algernon and I could only secure two uj-.er berths 
 away from each other ; and as I had a man sleeping below 
 me, I had to go to bed at 8.30 before he " turned in," and 
 I had to get up at 4 a.m. before he " turned out," at which 
 time I climbed down the ladder with the assistance of the 
 black porter. I doubt if those who boast of the comforts 
 of American travelling have ever tried one hot and dusty 
 night in crowded cars. 
 
 K 2 
 
ivapfH 
 
 132 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 We spent a few hours at Tacoma, and were glad to get 
 into a capital cabin on board the Puget Sound steamer 
 for Vancouver, B.C., the door of which opened on to the 
 outer deck, so that we could sit in our cabin and enjoy 
 the view and fresh air, which was delightful after the 
 heated cars. 
 
 Puget Sound seemed prettier to-day than when we were 
 going south. Then we had been living in the beautiful 
 woods, now we were returning from Oregon, where all 
 was dried up with the hot sun, and so the fresh pine 
 woods looked green and lovely. 
 
 We were amused by a half-grown raccoon which was on 
 the upper deck ; he made a curious little cry as he tried 
 to escape from a box to which he was tied by a thong. 
 These creatures are easily tamed, and make rather amusing 
 pets, but this half- wild one seemed very unhappy. 
 
 We were much pleased to arrive at Vancouver, where 
 we found thirty-six letters waiting for us at the hotel ; in 
 Canada letters follow one from place to place without 
 extra charge for postage. 
 
 I 
 
HAP. 
 
 XI.] 
 
 ( 133 ) 
 
 (get 
 imer 
 
 the 
 njoy 
 
 the 
 
 vere 
 
 biful 
 
 all 
 
 pine 
 
 } on 
 
 ried 
 mg. 
 sing 
 
 lere 
 
 in 
 
 out 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 ' Vancouver — Canoeing in Howe Sound. 
 
 " Made at night a lodge of branches, 
 And a bed with boughs of hemlock, 
 And a fire before the doorway, 
 With the dry cones of the pine-trees." — Longfellow. 
 
 Canadian Pacific Hotel, Vancouver, British Columbia, 
 August 12th. — Very much tired after our long journey. 
 This being Sunday we went to the Scotch Church close to 
 the hotel in the afternoon. Eather a dismal service, 
 and each time I leaned back my cloak adhered firmly to 
 the newly-varnished seat. 
 
 In the evening we sat in the wide verandah of the 
 hotel, and had a glorious view of the Sound and the 
 mountains beyond, by pale clear moonlight. 
 
 As I recalled the day of the month, it seemed to bring 
 a whiff of the Scotch mountains and heather ; we thought 
 of many friends far off in Scotland, not shooting grouse, 
 however, until to-morrow, as it is Sunday. 
 
 How one dreams in the moonlight, and through the 
 
 <! 
 
4WI 
 
 134 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 mists of time, thoughts of childhood, recollections, im- 
 pressions, how they crowd into one's niiiiJ, and things 
 long forgotten are recalled as if they had happened but 
 yesterday ! 
 
 August l^th. — We drove round the park at Vancouver, 
 the roads of which are being made, and visited the 
 big trees, which are certainly magnificent, one cedar 
 being 50 feet in circumference, a Douglas pine 44 feet, 
 and the largest existing spruce 38 feet, all measured 
 6 feet from the ground.* These trees are extraordinary, 
 not only from their great girth, but from their enormous 
 height. The Sequoice of California are of course much 
 larger, bitt are a perfectly different variety of tree. I 
 doubt if there exist anywhere larger specimens of the 
 three previously named. 
 
 We saw during our drive no less than six eagles' nests. 
 
 All along the Puget Sound and round this place saw- 
 mills are busy at work. Already the merchants of 
 Australia, Chili, Peru, China, the United States, and Great 
 Britain have discovered that in British Columbia they can 
 obtain a class of timber no other country can supply: 
 red, yellow, and white pine, cedar, hemlock, spruce, larch, 
 and fir, and all of a size that is unrivalled elsewhere. 
 
 No one can estimate the enormous amount of timber 
 in this province ; it covers the whole of the country one 
 may say up to the snow-line, an area larger than France 
 and the British Isles combined. 
 
 * These large trees generally grow in groups of three. 
 
XI.] 
 
 VANCOUVER TOWN. 
 
 135 
 
 i 
 
 Where was formerly primeval forest, the town of 
 Vancouver now stands, with carpenters, stonemasons, 
 and bricklayers all hard at work increasing its size every 
 day. 
 
 The hotel is the principal building in the town, whilst 
 scattered round are some nice houses, a few streets, many 
 building-lots, and much waste land for sale. 
 
 Without having seen the forest in its wild state, one 
 cannot understand the amount of labour necessary to 
 bring a " building lot " into condition. Each of the large 
 stumps left in the ground when a tree is felled costs $30 
 to remove. They have partly to be burnt, partly blown 
 out with giant powder and the rest dug out with picks. 
 To clear one small building lot costs $300. Speculators 
 in such lots^ are asking very large prices, which we 
 are told are still going up. We saw a lot which had 
 just been sold for $5000, with only room for one small 
 house between two already built on adjacent ground, and 
 called Mr. Van Home's and Lord Durham's lots after their 
 respective owners. Vancouver will some day hold an 
 important position, being the railway terminus, and a 
 starting-point to all parts of the world. 
 
 We went across the inlet in a row-boat to visit the 
 Indian village which we had only seen before in the dis- 
 tance, when, as we looked across the inlet from the hotel, 
 its little white houses and church glistened in the morning 
 sun. We had considerable trouble in crossing, owing 
 to the tide, which runs in and out very quickly, and 
 on reaching the other side we fastened the boat, and 
 
 
1 
 
 136 IMPRESSJONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 walked through the village, which seemed clean and 
 quiet. 
 
 Most of the men were away, but we found two busily 
 engaged making a dug-out canoe, which they were scoop- 
 ing out. One of the Indians looked old and wrinkled, but 
 the other seemed young and active. With the assistance 
 of an Indian boy who understood a little English, Algernon 
 inquired if there was a hunter there who could go after 
 sheep and goat with him. They only shook their heads and 
 said they knew of no one. Many children were playing 
 about, and six squaws were sitting together, making 
 rather a nice screen with tabs of T^rooUen cloth. They all 
 appeared to be amused by our t isit ; they seemed happy 
 and contented and looked up lazily as we passed. The 
 Mission is Roman Catholic and tho church also. On Sun- 
 days a priest comes to take the services ; on week days, we 
 '7ere told, they were conducted by the schoolmaster. The 
 inside of the church was clean and tidy ; these people look 
 after it themselves. Poor simple souls ! they seem to have 
 grasped the truth, that there is One who came to save all 
 who believe in Him. 
 
 The Indians in this village earn a good living by 
 lumbering, nearly all the men working in saw-mills not 
 far from here. 
 
 The evening was beautiful, not a ripple stirred the water, 
 and the mountains were glorious. Our pleasure was rather 
 marred by four stupid men in a boat, who fired in the 
 direction we were going, and several bullets fell close to 
 us ; they were too far off to hear our remonstrances, but as 
 
XI.] 
 
 AN IMPORTANT LA W SUIT. 
 
 »37 
 
 I 
 
 
 every one possesses firearms here, naturally they fall into 
 the hands of many who do not ntiderstand how to use 
 them with safety to others. 
 
 Blasting goes on daily at Vancouver, and few precautions 
 are taken to warn passers-by. A man was killed last 
 week in this way. The workmen get so accustomed to 
 the use of these dangerous explosives that they leave them 
 lying about. Two days ago enough giant powder was 
 found close to the hotel to have blown up the whole town, 
 but it did not excite much attention; we were told it 
 belonged to the men making roads. 
 
 Vancouver is full of the most eminent lawyers in 
 Canada ; an important case is proceeding : " The Govern- 
 ment of Canada v. The Canadian Pacific Railway." The 
 part of the line made by the Government was to be given 
 ovf^r to the Canadian Pacific Railway Company at a certain 
 date, and was to be built up to the standard of the Union 
 Pacific line. The Canadian Pacific Railway Company now 
 maintain that the line is not up to the promised stan- 
 dard. This case will involve an expense of $6,000,000 
 to the losing side, so all the best legal advice has 
 been procured by both parties. I was told by several 
 of the leading men engaged, that it had entailed 
 tremendous labour for them to learn all the railway 
 terms and slang, which it was absolutely necessary 
 for them to do, in order to examine and understand 
 witnesses.* 
 . We looked into the Court and heard some cross- 
 
 « '1 
 
 * I understand this case is still proceeding. 
 
138 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Ti \ 
 
 examination going on, and were also shown photo- 
 graphs of portions of the line said to be unsafe. How- 
 ever, the President of the Canadian Pacific Ptailway 
 is reported to have come through the mountains, the 
 whole way, going at the rate of fifty miles an hour; 
 this does not look as if he were afraid about the state 
 of the line. 
 
 Bears are frequently met with in the forest between 
 Vancouver and New Westminster; wc drove that way, 
 a::?rl Algernon took his rifle, but we saw no v/i'd animals 
 of any kind. The forest is so dense in some paii.0 it 
 looked as if a way could hardly be forced through it. 
 Ev«,rywhere a profusion of wild hemes of aU kinds is 
 found: raspberries, their canes 18 feet high, salraon- 
 berrics, blueberries, and cranberries, and these are what 
 attract the bears. During our drive we saw trees said to be 
 280 feet high ; most of the road was an old corduroy one, 
 and we bumped along all the time, taking much interest 
 in what we saw. 
 
 August I'Uh. — ^We Wore invited to join a party going 
 up the mlct called the " Fjrth Arm." 
 
 At the entrance of the harbour on the rocks, lay th3 
 wrick of the old Hud3on's Bay steamer Beave'r, the 
 first steambcat that rouj ided Cape Horn, and this she did 
 in 1837. A queer-looKing craft she was, and hardly the 
 size of a small steam-tug. Thu quick running tide had 
 put l^ar on the rocks, and there she will lie until she falls 
 tc pieces. 
 
i 
 
 XI.] 
 
 A CANOE EXPEDITION. 
 
 139 
 
 We crossed to Moodyville, and saw the large saw-mills 
 at work, and then steamed for twelve miles up the inlet, 
 until we were in impressive solitudes and amidst grand 
 wooded mountains, the distance fading into intense depths 
 of blue. On our way back we saw a glorious sunset, 
 lighting up all the mountains. 
 
 August lUh. — "We prepared for our canoe expedition to 
 Howe Sound. 
 
 August 17th. — ^We were to start from False Creek, half 
 a mile from the hotel. On reaching the shore at 7 a.m. 
 yesterday, we saw the Indian's canoe anchored on the other 
 side of the creek ; after much calling and whistling, our 
 Indian (William by name) came out of his house, and 
 through Algernon's stalking-glass we saw him packing in all 
 haste, with the assistance of his "clootchman" (Chinook for 
 woman) ; at last he came, and we started. Fine weather 
 smiled on us, and in the distance Vancouver Island was 
 visible ; thus we crossed to the lighthouse, which is on the 
 other side (.»f the entrance to Buzzards Inlet. 
 
 We had received an invitation to breakfast at the light- 
 house, near wiiich Mr. O'Brian (an artist) and his shier 
 were living. We found their tsnt very comfortable, and 
 our morning's sail had given us the best of appetites. 
 They spoke well of the reliability of our I iian, who had 
 once been for six weeks witli them. Upon starting again 
 the sea was too rough for me; and I suffered from the 
 effects of the swell. We sailed the whole way, and it was 
 
140 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 exciting to see our Indian seated in the stern of the canoe, 
 with the sheet in his hand, driving us, as it were, in the 
 direction he wished, and our little narrow canoe, with its 
 big square sail, speeding us through the water so quickly 
 that at times I felt nervous. Algernon and the Indian, 
 however, reassured me. These coast Indians are all 
 good seamen, accustomed to sail their canoes in all sorts 
 of weather, and these dug-outs really float like corks on 
 the water. 
 
 The mountains seemed wooded to the very summit on 
 either side, and in the distance we saw some fine snow- 
 peaks. 
 
 At 7 o'clock, after twelve hours' sailing, the canoe was 
 drawn up on the banks, and we camped for the night, which 
 would have passed more pleasantly had the mosquitoes 
 left us in peace. It was almost dark by the time supper 
 was ready. Our " menu " for the evening was as follows : 
 hot bread, tea, bacon, cold chicken, salt beef, and baked 
 potatoes ; so we did not starve. Our camp was beside a 
 small stream, and facing us was one of the great islands 
 in the sound. 
 
 Our Indian is a good specimen of what an Indian 
 can be when compelled to work for himself. He is 
 bright, intelligent, with good manners, and his camping- 
 kit was so complete as to be far better than our own, for 
 he had a pillow, and white sheets to sleep in, under the 
 sky of heaven. Also he possessed a leather bag, a looking- 
 glass, a brush and comb, and occasionally he put on a pair 
 of new boots. We had brush and comb, but no sheets, 
 
I 
 
 XL] 
 
 A BEAU STORY. 
 
 141 
 
 
 pillows, or looking-glass ! Whenever he did put on his 
 new boots, then occasior or fancy led him into the water, 
 and so the boots got soaked ! 
 
 Over the camp-fire, William told us a bear story, and 
 tliis is word for word as I iieard it from him : — 
 
 " Indian go after wild sheep, see bear. Him shoot 
 " bear with shot-gun, once, twice ; still bear come on. 
 " Indian get out knife, still bear come. Bear catch him, 
 " go, bite, bite, bite ! Indian up arms, scratch him, bite, 
 " bite, bite ! Indian get knife into bear. Bear thinks 
 " man dead, goes and sits not far off. Indian very sick, 
 " watch bear. Bear watch man too much. Man load gun 
 " again. Bear looks, man shoot again, kill bear. Man 
 " very sick, get back camp all blood ! " 
 
 Algernon fished with small success, only getting one 
 trout for supper. We saw another. Our Indian ran 
 down to a shallow place, and with a long pole with gaff 
 attached, secured him ; but alas ! the new boots were in 
 the water several times. 
 
 We spent Sunday in camp, and I read the Psalms for 
 the day to Algernon and the Indian, and the latter drew 
 nearer to listen. 
 
 " The liigh hills are a refuge for the wild goats, and the 
 rocks for the conies." 
 
 " He appointed the moon for seasons, the sun knoweth 
 his going down." 
 
 "Thou makest darkness, and it is night, wherein all 
 the beasts of the forest do creep forth." 
 
 \) 
 
 ■ 
 
 i 
 
142 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " The young lions roar after their prey, and seek their 
 meat from God." 
 
 William tells us he is a Roman Catholic, but in his 
 simplicity thinks all belong to that Church. He says, 
 " Me no able to read, but my boy he learn ; he be able to 
 do all that." 
 
 Our supper of mutton broth, fried onions, tongue, trout, 
 hot bread and biscuits, was much enjoyed. We were 
 obliged to sleep with a smudge in our tent, as the mos- 
 quitoes were so bad. It was made with a few hot 
 cinders covered with green leaves and cedar bark. This 
 soon emitted a smoke, and we slept in peace. 
 
 We started on Monday for Squawmish Place, at the 
 head of Howe Sound ; it is an Indian reserve. We 
 had no wind, so Algernon and the Indian had to paddle 
 the whole way. The sun was hot, and we were glad 
 to get out of the current (which was strong enough 
 to make the work hard), and into the shadow of the 
 great grey rocks, that were covered with masses of 
 seaweed and mussels which lent them every shade of grey 
 and yellow. 
 
 We saw an eagle perched on the top of a Douglas pine ; 
 it seemed a long way off, and when Algernon got cut his 
 rifle, I did not expect he would hit him, but the royal 
 bird fell, a large one too when extended, and of the white- 
 headed variety. We placed him in the stern of the canoe, 
 intending to bring him back, but alas ! the heat of that 
 one day defeated our intentions. 
 
 ,1 
 
XI.] 
 
 OUR CAMP. 
 
 143 
 
 The words of Longfellow came to my mind — 
 
 " And the evening sun descending, 
 Set the clouds on fire with redness, 
 Burned the broad sky like a prairie, 
 Left uiDon the level water 
 One long track and trail of splendour.'' 
 
 On, on they paddled for many a long mile before a suital)le 
 resting-place was found, and the canoe was hauled up for 
 the night. Our camp was perched high up on some rocks 
 among trees, and below us flowed quite a large river. After 
 the tent was pitched, we went off fishing for a couple of 
 hours. No success. The Indian said, " Salmon not come 
 yet," and it did not seem that they had. We then 
 amused ourselves trying to shoot seals. They were wary 
 and would not allow the canoe within 200 yards of them, 
 but when far enough away to feel secure, they kept 
 bobbing their heads up and down in a very aggravating 
 manner ; but happily it is not always necessary to one's 
 enjoyment that one should kill. Men who are excellent 
 sportsmen have told me that some of their pleasantest 
 days after game have been those when success has not 
 crowned their efforts, though they have been enabled to 
 learn something new about the habits of the animals they 
 have been in pursuit of. 
 
 After an excellent supper " turned in," but not to sleep, 
 as it was now the mosquitoes' turn to have an excellent 
 supper. They were in thousands, and besides these pests 
 we were tormented by sandflies, which got through our 
 blankets and irritated us beyond endurance ; so much so 
 
 I- 
 
144 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 that in the middle of the night, we pulled our blankets on to 
 bare rocks, where there was a little wind, and at last slept ; 
 but our blankets were quite wet with the heavy dew when 
 we got up at 4 a.m. The liigh rock that we had chosen over- 
 looked the Sound, and we had a lovely view. Thousands 
 of stars were still twinkling when we started. Afterpaddling 
 and sailing six miles, we camped for breakfast in the most 
 delightful spot ; no mosquitoes. Here we remained until 
 next morning, and spent the day exploring the woods, but 
 found no game of any kind, following the stream about 
 half a mile up the mountain-side, we discovered some 
 natural granite baths filled with icy stream-water. In the 
 springtime douhtlesG this is a huge mountain torrent. 
 
 ! 
 
 ' 
 
 August 22nd. — A lovely morning. The Indian had 
 breakfast ready at 4 . 30, when I came out of my tent. We 
 are returning, and this expedition has been somewhat 
 disappointing ; firstly, because the salmon had not come 
 into Howe Sound, and secondly, the time is closed for the 
 shooting of mountain sheep and goat till September, and 
 it is somewhat aggravating, for poor Algernon to feel so 
 near and be unable to have a few days after them. Mos- 
 quitoes and sandflies have found us out in our retreat here 
 also, and at night we have to cover our faces in silk shirts to 
 defeat them. Oddly enough, we have been travelling about 
 with curious mosquito cages which can be placed round 
 one's head, completely defending it, but having never 
 had any use for them, we left them behind us at Van- 
 couver. Alas ! alas ! 
 
 ♦ 
 
XI.] 
 
 A LONG PADDLE. 
 
 US 
 
 We started with what the Indian called &"siivash" wind. 
 Our canoe sailed beautifully. The wind, however, soon 
 dropped., and so Algernon and the Indian had to do a long 
 day's paddling. We stopped for two hours, going ashore 
 at a pretty spot where there was a creek and lots of good 
 water. The Indian and I prepared dinner, while Algernon 
 lay on his blankets and enjoyed a rest. They paddled 
 by turns, and at last reached the lighthouse, where 
 the O'Brians invited us to tea in thoir tent. This we 
 declined; we wished to reach Vancouver by night, 
 and wind and tide being fairly favourable, we went on. 
 The sun beat down on our tired heads as from a 
 furnace, but stiU they plied their paddles sturdily, and 
 when we reached False Creek we had been for sixteen 
 hours in the canoe ; a hard day's work ! 
 
 Aitgust 23rd. — My face was very much swollen from 
 mosquito bites, but carbonate of soda with a little water, 
 dabbed on gently with the aid of a bit of cotton wool, at 
 once removed all irritation. The comforts of a house are 
 indeed great when one has been a week in the open, and 
 after a good night's rest we were quite ourselves again, 
 although the object of our expedition — sport — had not 
 been attained. 
 
 , 
 
146 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 CHAPTEK XII. 
 
 Glacier House — The Columbia Eiver. 
 
 ** Worth makes the man, the want of it the fellow, 
 The rest is all but leather and prunella." — Pope, i 
 
 August 24:t7i. — "We left Vancouver in the afternoon for 
 Glacier House, and from the platform of the last car on 
 the train, looked at the deep ravines and great chasms 
 over which the trestle bridges carried us along the banks 
 of the Fraser river. 
 
 The old Cariboo trail winds along the opposite side of 
 the Canon, in many places passing over wooden cribwork 
 on the edge of the bare rocks, and over this a stage with 
 six horses formerly ran daily, no paroT>et of any kind 
 protecting the traveller from a fall o\^c the precipices. 
 In the spring of the year the teams were often almost 
 unbroken, and were only induced to go by starting at 
 full gallop. The road at one point (on what is called 
 Jackass Mountain) goes round a corner with a precipice 
 of 1,500 feet sheer below it. No one seems to have 
 thought it dangerous, though more than one bad accident 
 
XII.] 
 
 CARIBOO MINES, 
 
 147 
 
 . 
 
 occurred here, and once the stage waggon went right over 
 into the chasm beneath. 
 
 The Bishop of Columbia gives an interesting account in 
 his journal of his journey along the old trail when the 
 Cariboo gold-mines were first discovered, and before the 
 staging days, in which he compares his position to a fly 
 upon the face of a perpendicular rock, in this case 
 between 2,000 and 3,000 feet high. 
 
 Many a miner lost his life at Jackass Mountain and 
 Nicaragua Slide. 
 
 In 1860 all supplies were transported to the mines on 
 the miners* backs or on those of Indians, who carried as 
 much as 100 or 150 lbs. William's Creek sustained 
 16,000 people, some of whom left with large fortunes. 
 *' Cariboo Cameron," a man who worked in the mines in 
 this neighbourhood, took out $100,000 of gold in three 
 months ; with the money he built a house in Montreal, 
 and after spending all that he had, came back an old 
 man, and worked as before until his death. 
 
 At that time at Cariboo the gold was taken out in 
 immense quantities. Few of the miners would leave 
 their claims in order to obtain the necessaries of life, and 
 $70 worth of gold dust was given for a sack of flour, and 
 so in proportion for every sort of provision. 
 
 Before the rush of thieves and adventurers into Cariboo, 
 the miners were so honest that their bags of gold dust 
 were left on the shelves in their shanties. Any traveller 
 might enter these and help himself from the flour bag, or 
 cut himself a slice of bacon — true hospitality thus obtained 
 
 L 2 
 
 . 
 
148 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Bi- 
 
 1 
 
 in the midst of the roughest country. The rush for 
 gold in a short time so changed all these kindly ways, 
 that men had to carry loaded revolvers day and night 
 to protect themselves from robbery and murder. Four- 
 teen men caught red-handed were sent down to Victoria 
 for trial, sentenced to death by Chief Justice Begbie, and 
 hanged. This swift .retribution did much good. 
 
 The Indians were now on their fishing-grounds, and we 
 saw long rows of smoked salmon drying under wooden 
 sheds, this being their way of preserving it for the winter. 
 Further up the river, Chinamen were washing for gold. 
 
 An excellent dinner at North Bend ended the day; 
 had breakfast on the dining-car, and arri\ at Glacier 
 House in time for lunch. Here, travelling along the line 
 in their saloon, we met Mr. and Mrs. Abbot and party, 
 whose acquaintance we had made at Vancouver. 
 
 The Eev. W. S. Green and the Rev. — Swansey had 
 been at Glacier House since the middle of June. They 
 were making a survey of the glaciers in the Selkirks for 
 the Geographical Society ; * had seen much while there, 
 and had made several important ascents and crossed 
 many of the glaciers, discovering also a valley hitherto un- 
 known. They experienced considerable difficulty in finding 
 any one to go with them ; but during the latter part of 
 the time they were fortunate in securing the services of a 
 miner known as Mountaineering Ben, a fine bold fellow, 
 ready and willing to do whatever he was told, and though 
 
 * The Rev. W. S. Green has just published a book, " The Selkirk 
 Glaciers." 
 
 \f 
 
XII.] 
 
 THE GREAT GLACIER. 
 
 f49 
 
 g* 
 
 of course with no actual knowledge of Alpine climbin 
 still reliable in emergencies. 
 
 On their last trip they had been absent eleven days, 
 and had crossed and surveyed seven glaciers, and were of 
 course far above the snow-line most of the time. 
 
 One morning when at breakfast they received a visit . 
 from some mountain goats, who almost walked into their 
 camp ; needless to add the rifle was unloaded. The 
 mountain goats are fine animals ; their heads when seen 
 alone givf little idea of their size. 
 
 Glacier House is not a good place to hunt from, owing 
 to the number of glaciers in the surrounding mountains. 
 To get to the game, one must cross one or more of them, 
 which is dangerous without roping, and other precautions. 
 
 • August 25t7i. — We went with Mr. Green and his fiicnd 
 to the great glacier, and after a walk of two miles came to 
 where the bridge over the creek formerly stood ; it is now 
 washed away. We scrambled over as best we could, 
 through water part of the way, Mr. Green in front of me 
 and Algernon behind, and on reaching the glacier, were 
 amply repaid for our walk by the view we had of the 
 moraine and ice caves. 
 
 The glacier at the base is half a mile across, and five to 
 eight miles long, and from this point we could count six 
 others. Mr. Green told us that he had discovered one 
 larger than this, and that it will be called the Marian 
 Glacier. ■ < ^ - 
 
 Mr. Green was marking the stones at the base of the 
 
 -> 
 
T 
 
 ISO IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 glacier to see at what pace it was advancing or receding; ; 
 and for this purpose he and his friend had to cross it several 
 hundred feet above, to fix poles into the ice at different 
 points. They wished us to go with them, and with such 
 efficient guides, armed with ice axes and ropes, I was most 
 anxious to try it. Algernon, however, objected. I had no 
 proper nails in my shoes, and would knock myself up. So 
 we watched them instead, but it was not the same excite- 
 ment. They returned in about three hours, and on our way 
 down to the hotel, measured a huge boulder of rock which 
 had been carried there by the ice ages ago. It was 
 60 X 33 X 34 feet. Another boulder we measured was 
 91 X 44 X 40 feet. This was the largest carried by 
 ice which Mr. Green had seen duiing his visit to the 
 Selkirks. 
 
 Most pleasant companions were these two Iriahi clergy- 
 men, and great travellers. Mr. G. had made many im- 
 portant Alpine ascents, had visited the West Indies and 
 New Zealand on scientific expeditions, and had been one 
 of those selected for the Deep Sea Commission, so he 
 told us many things which interested and amused us, and 
 our time together passed very agreeably. He related 
 to us, that when in the West Indies, where five varieties 
 of oranges grow and quantities of sugar-cane, he was 
 amused to find all marmalade was made either by Crosse 
 and Blackwell or Keiller of Dundee, for which luxury 
 they paid four shillings a pot. 
 
 When in the same place, he heard much of a Frenclunau 
 who had a sugar plantation near the coast, and was living 
 
 W 
 
XII.] 
 
 A CHARMING HOTEL, 
 
 iS« 
 
 in the bay where Cohimbua first landed, and where ho 
 was said to have lost the anchor of his ship. This enter- 
 prising Frenchman sought long, hoping to discover its 
 whereabouts, and at last found an anchor whicli he 
 supposed was the one belonging to the explorer. 
 
 Mr. G. drove fifteen miles to see it ; but, alas, the anchor 
 was that of a 1000-ton ship : nevertheless, a portrait of the 
 Frenchman, with his name, appeared in the papers of the 
 Geographical Society of Paris shortly after, claiming for 
 him the interesting discovery ! 
 
 The Canadian Pacific Railway Company have built a 
 charming hotel here, small, but comfortable, and the 
 scenery among these glorious snow-clad mountains is of 
 great grandeur and beauty. In the distance on every side 
 there are glaciers; the valleys clad with pine-trees give 
 warmth to the scene, and the exhilarating effect of the 
 mountain air makes one ready to undertake anything. 
 
 There was a small bear at the hotel, and he was an 
 exceedingly good-tempered, funny little animal. I brought 
 him some bunches of blueberries, and he picked off the 
 fruit with evident enjoyment. 
 
 The tracks of a grizzly were seen the day before on the 
 trail, two miles off; they were about a foot long. Algernon 
 spent two days in trying to get him, but with no success. 
 Two black bear have been shot within three miles of 
 Glacier House this season. 
 
 As I was sketching to-day, some navvies passed the 
 place where I was sitting. It was Saturday evening, 
 and the men had just been paid their week's wages. 
 
 i 
 
1.^2 
 
 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 H 
 
 Two )f them had evidently been drinking, so I half 
 closed my portfolio, as I did not wish to run the chance 
 of their stopping to talk to me. They went on, hut 
 the next two stayed, and appeared anxious to see 
 what I was doing. They were sober, so I ^Aont on 
 painting. They looked with much interest at my sketch ; 
 and one of them said : " I ^vish to buy that picture." I 
 told him that I did ixot sell my sketches, but painted 
 merely for my own amusement; but that there was an 
 artist staying in tJie hotel wlio had some very nice pic- 
 tures of the places round. " I've seen his," the man 
 replied, " but I like yours best ; wliy won't you sell me 
 this one ? Kame your own price." The man's evident 
 desire "i^ have the sketch pleased me, and, to make a long 
 story short, I said I would give it to him. To this he ssid 
 " No ; I won't take it for nothing." 
 
 He was so anxious to come to some arrangement about 
 it, that at last 1 .said : " If you will send some money to 
 the Hospital (which has been opened for railway employes 
 at Donald) yoTi sliall have the picture." He promised 
 he would come next day to tiettle about it ; but we left 
 by tl'e mid-day train, and he had not then arrived.* 
 
 Tho men get excellent %^'age3, working on the rail- 
 way — some as much as two and even three dollars a 
 day; and as they have no other means of spending their 
 money, those who do not save spend :t, alas ! at the 
 
 * Months afterwards I heard he had come tliat evening, and was 
 much disappomted ; bt as I did not knov/ his name, I could then. 
 dp nothing. 
 
 "" 
 
 m 
 
•S" 
 
 ■n 
 
 t 
 
 XII.] , JOURNEY TO GOLDEN CITY. 
 
 «ai 
 
 saloons and drinking-bars. Books and newspapers, we 
 always found, \\-ere very welcome. 
 
 AVe travelled from Vancouver with the Head Master 
 of the Brighton Grammar School, who told us he had 
 made arrangements to send the men books from home. 
 He and a friend had been out in Canada to visit some of 
 their old school-boys, having been anxious to see for 
 themselves if they had deteriorated uiaong their rough 
 surroundings. Evidently they had found this to be the 
 case in some instances. He lectured much to workinf^- 
 men, and seemed to take great interest in everything he 
 heard about the country and settlers. 
 
 We had to leave Glacier House on Sunday evening for 
 Golden City, and passing the Beaver and Kicking-Horse 
 Ptivers, which were both in flood from heavy rain, we found 
 our train suddenly brought to a stand-still. A tree had 
 fallen across the line, but it was soon removed with the 
 help of an axe, and on we went. 
 
 At Golden City we found Captain Armstrong, of the 
 steamer Duchess, waiting for us at the station with a 
 waggon ; wf; w ere ere long settled on board, with the best 
 cabin placed at our disposal. The Duchess v as built 
 owing to the enterprise of several Englishmen, and many 
 persons travelling in Canada will doubtless gladly avail 
 themselves of this means of seeing the Eocky Mountains 
 and Selkirks from the Columbia Piiver. 
 
 There is also a trail this way by which one can get into 
 the United States territory at a place called Sandy Point 
 
 \ 
 
! 
 
 wmm 
 
 ■■■y 
 
 
 i 
 
 iir 
 
 I 
 
 154 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Station on the Northern Pacific Railway. Of course such 
 an expedition requires Indian guides and good ponies, and 
 would take aTx)ut twelve or fourteen days. 
 
 At last we were off. We started earlv in the morning, 
 and for several hours passengers and freight kept joining the 
 steamer. About twelve persons sat down to dinner. Some of 
 the men looked rough and unkempt, others always seemed 
 to prefer coming when everyone else had gone away. A 
 Chinaman waited, and the cook was also Chinese. The 
 food, which was excellent, was brought up from below on 
 a primitive so^-t of " lift," or what "would be called in this 
 country an " elevator." I was quite anxious about the 
 Chinese boy who waited ; he had an awkward way of 
 putting his head instead of the dishes into the lift, and that 
 this portion of his body remained in its proper place was 
 solely by the favour of fortune I It was only a question 
 of time when he should lose his head if he remained 
 possessed of his ill-placed confidence in the lift. 
 
 Captain Armstrong told us he had a very fine-looking 
 Indian for a time as servant, but he was photographed 
 frequently without his knowledge, and the last time 
 cleaning boots and knives. A picture of him in this menial 
 capacity was too much for his pride ; next day, the first 
 time the steamer stopped, he left never to return. 
 
 The principal tribes here are the Kootenays and Shus- 
 whaps; the latter came originally from near Cariboo. 
 There are about 500 Kootenays and 100 Shuswhaps in this 
 district. "When the Commissioners came to allot them 
 reservations, for several years tliey refused them, their 
 
 - 
 
;of 
 
 of 
 
 ,^as 
 
 L'St 
 
 
T 
 i'; 
 
 w. 
 
XII.] 
 
 KOOTENAY INDIANS. 
 
 155 
 
 % 
 
 
 chief saying, " Our land extends from the boundaries of 
 the United States to the Eocky Mountains. Let the white 
 men come if they will ; we shall not interfere with them." 
 And they kept their word. But as time passed, and they 
 understood better the chances of being crowded out, they 
 accepted reservations, but they do not receive rations, and 
 do not feel bound to live on their reservations. 
 
 Several times have the whito settlers been completely 
 in the power of these Indians, who have always behaved 
 well. I will give one example of the way troubles 
 arose. 
 
 A miner who thought he was being robbed watched his 
 gold night and day. A Kootenay Indian with hiii bride 
 were passing ; he had not been concerned in the robbery, 
 but lifted a nugget of gold to show his bride. The miner 
 fired, the Kootenay was wounded, drew his knife, and 
 made for the miner, who fired three times before killing 
 his vic4m. The tribe rose, and, surrounding the miners, 
 could easily have annihilated them. Their chief showed 
 great patience, demanded the hanging of the murderer 
 only, and finally consented to let his trial come off at 
 Victoria, B.C. Indians went down as witnesses. Tlie 
 white man got off, and now keeps a bar at Esquimault, 
 but in the Kootenay country his life would not be worth 
 an hour's purchase. 
 
 The Kootenays like ranching, and own about 1,000 
 heod of cattle. They take little or no interest in mining, 
 and none of these tribes liave any gold ornaments. The 
 name of the last good Kootenay chief was Michael; lio 
 
 IV 
 
iS6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 h ' 
 
 died eight years ago. The present chief is inferior to him in 
 every way. 
 
 The punishment given to squaws who have given 
 offence to the tribe, is to fell a large pine-tree with 
 nothing but a small tomahawk, and as they do almost 
 all the manual labour this seems to me very hard on 
 them. 
 
 The mounted police, commanded by Major Steel, have 
 just been removed from this valley. Seventy-five men 
 were here. These were necessary where many interests 
 had to be considered; but the Government of British 
 Columbia did not care to pay for their support, so they 
 were removed. 
 
 Major Steel was liked and respected by the Indians ; 
 they always told him the truth, and knew he wished to 
 deal fairly and impartially with them. Alas ! that there 
 are not more who command their esteem and respect. 
 They find white men every day trying to get the better of 
 them, and treating them in a way which is a disgrace to 
 civilization. 
 
 Mining is the great attraction in the Kootenay district. 
 Mines of inexhaustible wealth are always supposed to be 
 waiting for the mining adventurer, and no doubt some are 
 found; but there is generally the difficulty of want of 
 capital to develop them. During the sunmier miners take 
 up other work, so as to be able to spend the winter on 
 their claims. 
 
 '• I noticed a fine-looking young follow on the boat, 
 dressed in the costume of the country, blue overalls, long 
 
 ; 
 
XII.] 
 
 A WESTERN MAN. 
 
 157 
 
 
 I 
 
 :. 
 
 boots, blue sliirt all embroidered and laced up the front, 
 and a cowboy's hat ; his nice open and good-tempered- 
 looking ''ace made me wish to speak to him. An 
 opportunity soon occurred. He was going to shoot a 
 duck, but found he had no cartridge in his rifle. I said 
 it was a pity. Ho seemed pleased when I addressed him, 
 and told me the old story. He had been prospecting, had 
 found a galena-mine, and pointed out a mountain in the 
 distance where his treasure was, but he had no money to 
 work it. He and a friend toiled at it in the winter ; in 
 the fall (as the autumn is called here) he made money by 
 carrying freight up and down the river, after the steamer 
 had stopped running. 
 
 Four men rowing brought up their boat, with 2,000 lbs. 
 of stuff on board, 100 miles up stream in four days. One 
 load generally paid them from $100 to $115, but often 
 they had to start with only half a load. 
 
 He had been out here five years, and liked the life, had 
 just built himself a new boat, and hoped to make his first 
 trip in her shortly. 
 
 Later in the day Captain Armstrong said to me, " I will 
 point you out one of the best specimens I know of a 
 * Western man,' " and directed my attention to the young 
 fellow to whom I had been speaking. He also said, " He 
 is the strongest and one of the most determined men in 
 the valley, and will make his way." 
 
 Until lately both passengers' tickets and freight were 
 paid for either in nuggets or gold dust. We saw a 2-oz, 
 nugget, worth £7, wliich the Captain had just obtained. 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 I 
 
158 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 A few days before we came up, Captain Armstrong sent a 
 50-lb. bag of gold dust to be changed at the bank in 
 Victoria. The gold is so pure it is worth $18 an ounce, 
 and loses very little when smelted. 
 
 A smelter is being built at Vancouver, and will prove a 
 great advantage and convenience to miners in Canada and 
 British Columbia, for until now all ore has had to be sent 
 to the States to be smelted, and a heavy duty is required 
 at the frontier. 
 
 I sketched for some hours from the deck of the 
 steamer, and left my painting materials there when I 
 went to tea. Algernon was standing near, when a 
 bumptious and very loquacious young man who had come 
 from Ontario came up to him and said, " You are an 
 artist ; you seem to paint rather nicely." Algernon was 
 much amused, as painting is not one of his accomplish- 
 ments, and the speaker looked anything but a capable 
 critic. Appearances are sometimes deceptive ! 
 
 This reminds me of another occasion, when some 
 friends of ours were travelling on the cars in the usual 
 cowboy's " kit." An elderly gentleman, one of their fellow- 
 travellers, who was anxious to hear all he could about 
 ranching, was told by the porter of the train that he 
 might get all the information he wanted from two cowboys 
 in the smoking-room. These were our two friends, who 
 were not cowboys ; but thi$ mistake was likely to occur, 
 as nearly every one dresses in this way. 
 
 A very strong-minded American lady was \\\ \\\^ \'\;^\\\ 
 from the Glacier House with us, travelling in tlie lilteVBBta 
 
XII.] 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 159 
 
 of some Boston newspaper. Her appearance would have 
 warranted her being able to travel round the world alone. 
 She had on a short serge dress, her hair was cropped, and 
 at the back of her head she wore a grey wideawake, while 
 her sole ornament was a small liqueur bottle suspended 
 by a silver chain. She kept her note-book and pencil in 
 hand the whole time. 
 
 I can't help thinking, as I see all these strange people — 
 miners, boatmen, cowboys, toilers of all kinds — how some 
 are born to fortune and some to toil, and that the majority 
 know little but hard work from their cradles to their 
 graves, and that many of these turn out nobler and better 
 than those who lead lives of luxury and pleasure ; and 
 how work has nearly always a good effect on character, 
 while that of luxury and pleasure is just the contrary. 
 
 " Out West " we saw no poor, for all could get work, 
 and there were few idlers. The idlers there were had 
 chosen their lot, being addicted to either drinking or 
 gambling, and when idleness and dissipation mastered 
 them, they would blame fate by saying they were " down 
 in their luck." 
 
 We had a lovely trip up the Columl^ia river. Captain 
 Armstrong was so kind and considerate that, though I was 
 the only woman on board, I did not feel it in the least, 
 and the passengers amused me. They w^ere mostly 
 surveyors, prospectors, and miners. Captain Armstrong 
 told me that there were two parties on board, four men 
 belonging to one and three to the other ; that they were 
 going to try which should bo the first to stake a claim on 
 
i6o IMPRESSIOA'S OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap 
 
 iK » 
 
 1 ■!■ 
 
 a ricli ^Mlcna-miiio, wliicli one of the four liiul discovered. 
 Tlie finder was a drunken, good-for-notliing man. With 
 liis party was the nice youni,' fellow T had been speaking 
 to the day before, and two others. These men liad 
 promised to help the finder of the mine to establish his 
 claim and their own. 
 
 On the opposite side were a mining engineer, a fnie-look- 
 ing big mar., who was a miner, and a hanger-on, who had 
 promised to take them to the mine. Tlie latter, having 
 failed to get the drunken discoverer of the mine to tell 
 him where it was, was rather in disgrace with the men 
 with whom he was travelling. 
 
 Our steamer stopped for the night, making fast to the 
 bank. The three had horses waiting at this point, and 
 ho])cd to start at dawn, and so get ahead of the other 
 party. However, when morning came their horses had 
 disappeared, having been let loose by some of the others ; 
 so they had to come on board again as far as the next 
 stopping-place, which was ten miles from the coveted 
 mine, over the most unpromising-looking country for a 
 hurried marcii. Here both parties went ashore, scowling 
 at each other. The four men took a pony and a r^/w-boat 
 off the steamer ; we left them all on the bank. I asked 
 Captain Armstrong who would win. He answered, " The 
 young fellow will get there first. Last winter he walked 
 to Golden over a bad trail a distance of thirty miles, 
 stayed there for one hour, and then returned, walking 
 fifty more." 
 
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 AN EVENING AT WINDERMERE. 
 
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 1 
 
 strength and energy ? I may add that this young fellow 
 did get to the mine first, running on and liring the trail 
 behind him, to delay the opposition party. 
 
 After entering the Columbia lake we came to undu- 
 lating country — excellent grazing-land. We stopped at a 
 landing called "Windermere, where a small hotel has lately 
 been built. Two Kootenay Indians were standing by 
 their ponies at the landing, and looked most picturesque ; 
 they were the first we had seen. 
 
 Before the Canadian Pacific was built, it took eight 
 days with pack-horses to reach this place from Sandpoint, 
 on the Northern Pacific EaUway. 
 
 It being too late to start for Findlay Creek, we arranged 
 to stay on board for the night, and spent the evening 
 paddling about in a canoe, and shooting a few ducks. 
 
 After our return a drunken miner, armed with a 
 Winchester rifle, came on board, and asked first for 
 whisky, and then to stay. Neither of these things 
 would Captain Armstrong allow, so he had to spend the 
 night in the willow-bushes on the bank. 
 
 itt 
 
i62 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOl, [chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Sam's Landing — The Trail to Findlay Creek- 
 
 The Ponies. 
 
 " The hills were brown, the heavens were blue, 
 A woodpecker pounded a pine-top shell ; 
 While a partridge whistled the whole day through. 
 For a rabbit to dance in the chapparel. 
 And a grey grouse drummed ' All's well. All's well.'" 
 
 Joaquin Miller. 
 
 August 19th, Findlay Creek. — ^Twu miserable-looking 
 Indian ponies were all we could hire. Algernon's was 
 so small it did not look as if it could carry him, but as 
 no others were available we were obliged to make the 
 
 best of them, and started. The C s kindly sent a 
 
 buckboard for our luggage ; we took with us only what 
 was absolutely necessary. 
 
 The youth from Ontario before mentioned succeeded in 
 obtaining a better pony. He was on his way to a place 
 called Canal Flat, and notwithstanding the advice of more 
 experienced people, fastened his valise behind his saddle, 
 and started at a gallop ! We jogged along slowly, and 
 
 i 
 
p. 
 
 XIII.] 
 
 GEOLOGICAL TERRACES. 
 
 163 
 
 after half-a-mile met him again, this time looking a 
 helpless object. He had had a bad fall. The pony, 
 naturally frightened by the jerking of the valise, had 
 begun bucking, and very soon got rid of his rider. The 
 contents of the valise were strewed over the ground, and a 
 good-natured squaw had caught the pony. There we left 
 him. 
 
 Our ponies required a good deal of spur ; the Indian to 
 whom they belonged owned 100, but he only caught up a 
 few at a time, and \v orked them until they were tired out 
 and poor, and ther iresh ones took their place ; a bad 
 system, and very hard on the ponies. 
 
 The country over which we rode was terraced, undu- 
 lating ground. All through British Columbia these 
 terraces abound, the three successive tiers marking three 
 successive epochs when geological disturbances took place ; 
 they are quite uniform, of even surface, and covered 
 with bunch grass and sage brush, being quite free from 
 boulders, while here and there a few scattered pines relieve 
 the yellow bareness so characteristic of this district. 
 
 These terraces. Dr. Hector says, are noticeable also on 
 the Athabasca, in California, and in Mexico. Bunch 
 grass only is found growing on them, the peculiar soil 
 formed by the disintegration of limestone or soft volcanic 
 rocks seeming to suit its requirements. One great dis- 
 advantage of the bunch grass as food for cattle is that 
 it takes three years to recover after being closely eaten 
 down, and from its mode of growth in distinct tufts, 
 the ground is but scantily covered with herbage; there- 
 
 \r 2 
 
^im 
 
 164 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 fore a cattle range must be very extensive, thirty acres 
 not being too much to allow for each beast. 
 
 It was refreshing sometimes after riding down-hill to 
 come to a creek with a running stream, and bright- 
 coloured grass ; but we quickly left these places behind, 
 and most of our ride lay over dusty plains, with a few 
 pine-trees scattered about, where everything looked dried- 
 up, there not having been rain for two months. 
 
 The chirrup of grasshoppers made a cheerful sound, and 
 occasionally from beliind a pine-tree, we saw a little chip- 
 munk hurrying off chattering after having a look at us. 
 Pretty little fellows they are, about half the size of a 
 squirrel, with two little stripes down the back. 
 
 Our Indian followed us in order to receive payment for 
 the hire of his ponies, and having caught us up gave 
 Algernon his pony, the other being tired out; and con- 
 tinuing our journey until the shadows of evening fell, we 
 at last drew near Findlay Creek. Three or four times 
 during the day we had taken off the saddles and given 
 the ponies a good rest and feed, but as neither of us had 
 tasted food for over twelve hours, we were glad at last to 
 see this wooden house of Findlay Creek, to have a kindly 
 welcome from our friends, and a good tea. Poor Indians ! 
 it is shameful to think there are wliite men who hire their 
 ponies, and then don't pay for them. We heard later that 
 the lad who was bucked off had acted in this way. 
 
 This building has been put up since our friends were 
 here last year. It is a board house. Passing into it we 
 found ourselves in the sitting-room, behind which was the 
 
XIII.] 
 
 FIND LAY CREEK. 
 
 x6s 
 
 kitchen and servant's room ; on either side of the sitting- 
 room are two bedrooms, one the C 's, the other ours. 
 
 N has a tent outside, a short distance from the house. 
 
 A narrow shelf runs round the sitting-room, three and a 
 half feet from the floor ; on it are arranged rows of meat 
 cans, tinned Californian fruits, rifles, cartridges, fishing- 
 rods, and other things, mostly of a sporting character. 
 A stove, a table, some wooden stools, and two hammock 
 chairs, complete the furniture of the room. 
 
 The ponies feed around the house, and a cow which 
 has been lent to Adela does likewise ; the calf is 
 tethered, but gives us some trouble by constantly getting 
 loose. The fresh milk is a welcome addition to tea, 
 and a daily rice pudding is much appreciated, as milk 
 in these out-of-the-way places is the greatest luxury. 
 
 August 20th. — Algernon and N went off for a 
 
 hunt to-day, and expect to get back to-morrow. They 
 packed their blankets, a frying-pan, teapot, and a few other 
 things which they took with them. 
 
 August 2\st. — Tom C left for Calgary this morning, 
 
 driving on the buckboard, as he had sprained his ankle ; 
 the trail is exceedingly rough, so this kind of locomotion 
 is not very comfortable ! 
 
 Adela and I spent our morning in making pine pillows. 
 First we had to find some stuff to make into cases; 
 a piece of striped window-blind did this. Then we had 
 
 to fell our 
 
 pme 
 
 -i.tjes ; 
 
 it took the needles of three small 
 
i66 IMFFESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 trees to fill one pillow, but they were most successful 
 when done. The scent of the pine needles has a most 
 soothing effect on the nerves ; the only objection to our 
 pillows is their weight. 
 
 The hunters have come back tired and hungry. They 
 had seen nothing, not even the track of a deer. 
 
 The C s' ponies escaped to-day ; they were loose, to 
 
 enable them to pick up more food, but two had their 
 lariats trailing. Algernon went off to look for them ; he 
 returned in the evening, having been twenty miles in 
 search of them, but finding himself at the Canal Flat, 
 where Baillie Grohman has a store, he purchased two 
 pairs of moccasins, of which he is very proud. 
 
 The ponies were caught and brought back, the first one 
 
 from the upper camp by the Chinese cook ; then N 
 
 on this truant (Whitebait by n ne) found Adela's ; and 
 
 towards evening Pongo, N 's pony, came to feed, and 
 
 was speedily captured and picketed. 
 
 On the steamer coming up the Columbia, Algernon met 
 a hunter, named Moulson. Fe knows all this country well, 
 and Algernon would fain have gone hunting with lum, but 
 Moulson had unfortunately made his plans for the autumn, 
 so it was impossible. He, however, gave us much in- 
 formation. The distances to get to game seem to me 
 very great; he seemed to think nothing of them, and 
 spoke of carrying his pack of 60 lbs. weight on his back 
 for days together as nothing uncommon. 
 
 In the upper Kootenay Lake, which it takes eight days 
 to reach from here with pack-ponies, there is excellent 
 
 „ 
 
XIII.] 
 
 VITALITY OF A GRIZZL Y. 
 
 167 
 
 spring fisliing. The land-locked salmon is found in these 
 waters, also the red and white charr. The red charr is 
 excellent eating, and is caught up to 20 lbs. weight. In 
 some of the small streams which flow into the Kootenay 
 I^ke, is found what the miners call red fish; they 
 are from 3 to G inches long, rather flat and very good food. 
 They are spawned one year, and return the following to 
 the same place, spawn, and remain working their way up- 
 stream until they die, the mouth and fins decaying ; when 
 washed ashore they are a favourite food for the bears, a 
 number of which frequent these creeks. 
 
 Moulson told us the following bear story : In the summer 
 of 1875, on the shores of Ochre Lake, he and a party of 
 miners saw a large grizzly bear. Moulson fired at a distance 
 of 75 yards : the grizzly made for the river, and many shots 
 were fired at him. After swimming the river he was found 
 500 yards away from the bank, with eighteen shots in him. 
 two of the bullets having gone through his heart; this 
 shows the wonderful vitality of the animal, and the conse- 
 quent danger of following him when wounded. 
 
 The Kettle river, at the foot of the gold range, is also a 
 good place for sport ; this same hunter told us he had shot 
 forty-seven deer there one fall. 
 
 The upper camp, is about a mile and a half from us, 
 and there the manager and many of the men who are 
 gold-mining live. Adela and I went to see the men 
 working the hydraulic on the river bank; the force 
 of the water is so great that one saw the whole bank 
 crumbling away under its power. They were working 
 
 f 
 
1' 
 
 i68 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 to get down to the old bed of the creek, where they 
 expect to find gold in considerable quantities. One 
 of the miners gave us each a large pan of gravel 
 and sand to "pan out," as they call it; we sat down 
 beside a small stream, and proceeded to wash it. Tliis 
 was slow work, as we did not understand how to do it. 
 One has to keep one's pan under the water, and by 
 constantly shaking it, the big stones and gravel come to 
 the top ; these must be removed until nothing is left but 
 the black sand ; if there be any gold it is found in this 
 deposit. We each spent about an hour and a half over 
 our respective pans, and were rather wet before they were 
 done. I had three colours in mine, Adela two. Colours 
 are small atoms of gold, about the size of a pin's head ; 
 three colours in a pan pay for working. 
 
 People who ought to know, said there was certainly 
 much gold to be found at Findlay Creek, which extends 
 for eight miles. 
 
 Frank, an old French Canadian miner, who helped us 
 with one of the pans, told us a good miner could wash out 
 125 pan» a day, and that they have been paid as much as 
 $6 for each pan. He told us also that he and three 
 other men made $14,000 each in three months. He spent 
 the whole of it in prospecting. Another miner, a friend 
 of his in the States, made $250,000 in seven weeks, went 
 to San Francisco, and spent it all!! Miners seldom 
 save or lay by money to start in other modes of life ; 
 easy come, easy go, either in having what they call a 
 good time, or in prospecting for another mine. Cases 
 
 s 
 
XIII.] 
 
 ''PANNING OUT'' GOLD. 
 
 169 
 
 are too common of miners going into big cities, and in 
 an astonishingly short time, running through incredibly 
 large sums of money. 
 
 For thn^e days previous to the 3rd September, I had 
 been feeling very feverish, and rather feared an attack of 
 mountain fever, but quinine averted it. 
 
 Algernon and N went off that afternoon for some 
 
 days; they wished to try and find an Indian to hunt 
 with them, and also to buy some ponies for us, and 
 to fetch some provisions. 
 
 1 
 
 Septemher 4ih. — Adela and I started after lunch to go 
 and fish ; only one pony was available, which goes by the 
 name of Whitebait, and if any pony can be like a fish, it 
 is this one, both as regards colour, and a fishy eye of 
 which he is the possessor. 
 
 She rode ; the trail was very dusty, and after a mile and 
 a half we picketed the pony, and began to fish. They had 
 been working the hydraulic above this place, so we did not 
 get a single rise, and eventually took to sketching. 
 After this we wandered about, finding the single chrys- 
 anthemum growing in great abundance, and other 
 flowers also, but heavy drops of rain began to fall, so we 
 started for camp. I rode ; we had a very steep ascent to 
 make from the creek, and when we got to the top Adela 
 looked tired. Happy thought ! the pony might carry 
 two : I got behind the saddle, the long-suffering White- 
 bait did not seem to mind ; Adela scrambled up in front. 
 
170 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 and so we rode back to the wooden house. It was rather 
 difficult to keep one's balance without a saddle on the 
 hills and steep banks. Adela suggested, "What if we 
 meet a grizzly ! " however, this did not happen, and we 
 got home all right. 
 
 Three people arrived to tea from Canal Flat, friends of 
 the B. Grohman's; they were drenched with rain, the 
 two girls having on only their cotton bodices and riding- 
 skirts. It is advisable always to wear flannel shirts and 
 to have warm clothes in this country, as the mornings and 
 evenings are always cold, and chills are apt to bring on 
 mountain fever. 
 
 A red lily grows here which is very pretty ; we dug up 
 some roots to send home. 
 
 < 
 
 Sqitemhcr 5th. — Spent the morning at the hydraulic. 
 An Indian arrived with three ponies, two for us, the other 
 for one of the men at the upper camp. Their price was 
 $50 each. 
 
 September 6th.- 
 
 -Algernon and 
 
 N- 
 
 returned, both 
 
 looking rather tired, they had been over eighty miles 
 looking for a half-breed hunter; he has promised to go 
 out with them in three weeks, so in the meantime they 
 have made up their minds to hunt by themselves. 
 
 September 7th. — Saddled our ponies and started for 
 Canal Flat ; we rode down the trail alongside the creek, 
 which was wild looking with its huge boulders of rock, 
 the trail sometimes being cut out of the face of the cliff 
 
 1: 
 
^p 
 
 XIII.] 
 
 DESERTED LOG HOUSES. 
 
 171 
 
 
 high above the stream, whilst the rush of water could be 
 heard in the canon far below. 
 
 We crossed a small flat on which were many deserted 
 log-houses, some with their doors still locked, though 
 their owners would probably never return. One pretty 
 little log-house with a verandah (very likely built years 
 ago by some man who had brought the girl he loved 
 with him, and wished her home to be prettier than the 
 others) stands by itself deserted like the rest; a fine vie^v 
 of the mountains and creek stretching away in the 
 distance before it. They are all gone, the people "ho 
 built them — and where? only the log-liouses remain, 
 dreary and desoUtu, since the gold rush of 18G3, wheii 
 a quarter 01 a million of dollars was taken out of the 
 creek. 
 
 The ponies stepped carefully over the fallen timber, 
 and we jogged along through pretty woods, passing on 
 our way one or two small lakes, the banks of which were 
 white with alkali. We descended at last by a steep 
 pack-trail to the flat. Gangs of men were working there 
 at the Kootenay Canal, both Chinese and white labourers. 
 This canal was being made to connect the upper 
 Columbia lake and the Kootenay river, and is a work 
 of great enterprise ; the only thing that makes one doubt- 
 ful of its success as a financial speculation is that many 
 men who know every inch of the Kootenay river, say 
 that there are falls lower down, which render it utterly 
 unnavigable. One can hardly believe that men would 
 undertake such an enormous expenditure of money, 
 
172 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 without first ascertaining this fact, which, if true, would 
 render the canal practically useless. 
 
 The Indians seemed much amused with our appearance, 
 and came to the store where we went to buy some things 
 in order to observe us more closely. 
 
 We were not much to look at, as Adela and I 
 dressed with regard only to perfect comfort: woollen 
 petticoats and tweed jackets, cowboy hats and long 
 thick boots, the only suitable dress for roughing it out 
 here. 
 
 One pretty-looking squaw was what they would call 
 ''heap smart." Her bright-coloured blanket thrown 
 gracefully round her active figure, and her embroidered 
 leggings, her moccasins, blue bead necklace, and the gay 
 silk handkerchief which she wore, all formed masses of 
 rich colouring ; she, like all Kootenay women, carried her 
 "quirt' or riding- whip, for they are horse Indians and 
 rarely walk. All the others sat in groups and chatted 
 in their own tongue. 
 
 After a pleasant tea at the Grohmans', the ponies were 
 saddled up, and off we rode again, reaching the wooden 
 house about 8 p.m. 
 
 The bunch grass looks dried up and withered, for 
 there is frost at night; still the ponies live on it and 
 flourish, and how patient they are with those terrible 
 black flies, which choose a place on their necks where 
 ponies cannot dislodge them ! We find rows of them 
 with their heads buried until the places are raw and 
 bleeding ; perhaps this is partly the reason why the poor 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
XIII.] 
 
 STARTLED MULE TEAMS. 
 
 173 
 
 % 
 
 creatures so love a dust-bath. After they return from a 
 long day's journey they paw up the ground, and then 
 roll where it is soft, ana get up a mass of mud and dust ; 
 but a few shakes, and they are clean again, as clean as 
 one wants an Indian pony to be. 
 
 Adela and I spend a quarter of an hour daily in giving 
 our special favourites a brush-up, and certainly, since 
 they have got over the alarm of seeing women in petticoats 
 attending to them, they are most tractable and quiet, 
 and seem pleased to stand patiently as long as we 
 wish. 
 
 All ponies and dogs ** out West " seem shy of women. 
 When riding up the trail from Windermere, I caused two 
 mule teams so much alarm by my unusual appearance on 
 a side-saddle, that in order to pacify them, and prevent 
 the waggons from leaving the trail, I had to conceal my 
 objectionable self behind some bushes unril they had 
 passed. 
 
 SepUmler Sth. — Up at 7 A.M. Watered all the ponies 
 with Algernon at the creek close by. I cleaned my 
 boots and mended Algernon's moccasins. My pony 
 went as pack-horse, as we were still short of one, and 
 by 12 o'clock five pories were saddled and packed and 
 off ; they went to bring back provisions for a hunt. 
 
 Here most men ridp in Californian saddles, for on them a 
 certain amount of " kit " can be packed ; they are, however, 
 exceedingly heavy, some of them weighing 38 lbs. When 
 a long journey has to be done, this must be an objection, 
 
174 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 but they are the only saddles which will stand the rough 
 work of these parts. 
 
 Adela and I were only to go half-way down the trail to 
 get letters out of a box which was nailed to a pine-tree 
 there, and was our post-office, and we also hoped to meet 
 Tom C on his way back. 
 
 The want of books and music we feel much. We 
 have read all the books we have, and a banjo is the 
 only musical instrument that can be carried in the 
 mountains. 
 
 The miners have no amusement of any kind. They 
 work hard all the seven days, and seem contented a^^d 
 happy, and one only regrets that so many squander 
 their savings at the first big town they go to after their 
 summer's work is over. 
 
 I gave $50 for the white pony at the upper camp 
 to-day, as I did not like the one purchased for Algernon. 
 (And he turned out a really good one, carrying Algernon 
 over the roughest ground and the worst " windfalls " during 
 the time we were in the mountains, without giving him a 
 fall, and on one occasion he took me down the side of a 
 ravine ovor ground where it looked as if only a goat could 
 have travelled.) 
 
 v* 
 
 '^ 
 
 We had the offer of another horse, but did not much 
 fancy him or his owner, the latter being a very rough- 
 looking fellow, who was armed with a revolver and belt 
 full of cartridges. We heard just after that the police 
 were searching for a horse-thief, who had stolen a band of 
 
HHIil 
 
 f^mmmmmmmmti 
 
 \^ 
 
 XIII.] 
 
 yi HORSE THIEF. 
 
 175 
 
 forty horses and brought them into British Columbia from 
 tne North-West Territory. We thought most likely this 
 was the man that was wanted; but aU the poHce had left 
 the coimtry, and as Findlay Creek is between the Selkirks 
 and Rockies, the thief was fairly safe, and could easily get 
 off into the States. 
 
 All the Government horses are branded on the hoof, 
 and any one found in possession of them, whether thief or 
 not, is fined $50. In many places a horse-thief would be 
 lynched without a trial. 
 
176 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 CHAPTEE XIV. 
 
 Fishing — Miners — Algernon's Diary. 
 
 " Above the pines the moon was slowly drifting, 
 The river sang below ; 
 The dim sierras, far beyond, uplifting 
 Their minarets of snow." — Bret Harte, 
 
 ^■* 
 
 September. — The weather was glorious, and we lived 
 out of djors all the time; some da)S for hours together 
 I sat on a log, overlooking the valley, and watched the 
 ponies feeding. We were obliged to keep some of them 
 on lariats, because they strayed so much to dig for the 
 roots of the pea- vine, which has a carroty-looking root, that 
 seems to be very nourishing. It smells rather like a bean, 
 and horses are extremely fond of it. 
 
 A few days ago our hunters started again at dawn. The 
 animals were brought in, the new purchase — the white 
 pony — mounted and saddled, much to the satisfaction of 
 the owner. Blankets, tent, pots, pans, tin mugs, &c., were 
 all collected, as well as provisions, aid one of the miners 
 who helped to pack, showed them how to make "he 
 diamond hitch," a knot specially used for fastening loads 
 on to pack-saddles. 
 
 V .._._. 
 
XIV.] 
 
 A REFRACTORY HORSE. 
 
 177 
 
 Breakfast bacon had been sent for all the way to 
 Golden City ; but one does not always get what one sends 
 for. Bacon was very scarce ; a side of horrid-looking, very 
 
 fat salt pork came instead. N sat and looked at it 
 
 sadly, saying, " How can one eat such stuff ; " however, 
 there was nothing to take its place, so it went on the 
 expedition ; and, I may add, was thankfully eaten. 
 
 All was finally settled, and the hunters said good-bye. 
 
 N and Algernon waved their hands, the kettles 
 
 rattled, the black horse bucked two or three times, rushed 
 madly forwards, and in a few minutes disappeared into 
 the woods, leaving behind him provisions of all kinds 
 scattered in every direction. We all started in pursuit, 
 and after some time found him with the pack-saddle 
 broken and most of the heavy things Ipng round him 
 or in his tracks. Half the day was lost before the pack- 
 saddle was mended. N this time rode away on 
 
 the refractory horse, " Pongo " following with the pack- 
 saddle. 
 
 In the afternoon I galloped my pony to the upper camp, 
 and returned with 20 lbs. of flour. 
 
 The mornings are bitterly cold, but after the sun is up 
 the thermometer sometimes bLands at 85" or 90° in the 
 shade, and at night 8° or 9° of frost. The changes of about 
 70° in the twenty-four hours made me again feel ill. I 
 took quinine and aconite to try to keep off fever, for 
 there is no doctor nearer than Golden City, 150 miles off. 
 • Adela and I consulted the Homoeopathic book on fevers 
 of all kinds, and finding my ailments suited all the 
 
 K 
 
T 
 
 178 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 symptoms, finally decided on perseverance with aconite as 
 a remedy ; but I was depressed, and feeling very " down 
 on my luck," and went to bed after a very hot bath. 
 Adela too felt ill with swollen face and tooth-ache. 
 No sooner was I in bed than drip, drip, drip, came the 
 rain through the roof. As I knew that both cold and 
 draughts were to be avoided, and as in spite of all our 
 arrangements the wind was blowing in every direction, 
 I got up, covered the bed with a waterproof, hoisted 
 an umbrella over my head, and having arranged a screen 
 with some shawls, went to sleep, and uwoke in the 
 morning much better. 
 
 Wrote some letters which had to lie peacefully upon 
 the shelf until there was an opportunity of posting them. 
 
 The hunters returned from their three days' trip in the 
 mountains, the trail by which they had hoped to go they 
 found impassable — owing to " windfalls " — without a lot 
 of chopping, and they saw no sign of game. 
 
 The first clergyman we had seen since our arrival came 
 to-day, Mr. Irving by name, from Donald, where he had 
 a nice little church ; he had just, completed the annual tour 
 of his district, which covers an area in British Columbia as 
 large as Scotland, having taken the same pony 780 miles 
 in seven weeks, the animal all the time feeding only on 
 the bunch grass. He told me that the railway hands 
 at Donald had assisted during their spare time in carving 
 all the cedar benches in the little church, and that 
 they had sometmies five short services on Sunday. 
 Donald now has a hospital for the railway-men, who 
 
I'lNDLAY CRKEK. 
 
 LTu Jaw p. 17.-<. 
 
■J 
 
 •^ma 
 
XIV.] 
 
 AN AFTERNOON'S SPORT. 
 
 179 
 
 i 
 
 unfortunately meet with numerous accidents in the moun- 
 tainous section of the C.P.E. At first it was defective in 
 many respects, but now the men are well cared for, the 
 nurse being a man who came there as a patient and 
 expressed a wish to remain. There have been as many 
 as twenty-one patients at one time in hospital. 
 
 Had a long ride up the valley, and enjoyed a gallop. 
 Saw pretty views of the blue mountains on either side of 
 Findlay Creek, which wended its way through its rocky bed 
 far below us, looking like a silver thread in the bright 
 sunshine. The trail became narrow and difficult as we 
 descended, so much so that a false step on the part of 
 the ponies would have plunged us into the creek far 
 below. We picketed the ponies where they could have 
 a good feed, having first taken off their saddles, then we 
 began to fish. 
 
 Such a nice-looking pool at the end of a little rapid, the 
 water of the brightest emerald green. From the rock 
 above, from which I was casting, I saw not only my line 
 and minnow, but also the fish inspecting it : alas ! they 
 did not seem to think much of him, so after a few casts I 
 removed him and tried one half his size. 
 
 It is quite a fallacy to think that British Columbian 
 trout are easily caught. After looking through my fly- 
 book, I selected a small-sized fly with bright hackles, and 
 soon we had nine nice trout on the bank. I now tried a 
 grasshopper ; he was too big, so I returned to my fly, and 
 two more fish were added to the basket — quite a pleasant 
 little afternoon's sport. 
 
 N 2 
 
z8o IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Last night we were all awakened by the barking of 
 one of the dogs, but as he was always giving false alarms, 
 we shouted to him to keep quiet. Soon, however, we 
 heard some one outside saying, " Paper ! letter ! " Alger- 
 non called Tom C , and they found an Indian who 
 
 had ridden up thirty-five miles during the night with a 
 letter. After an hour or two he took the answer back, 
 making seventy-five miles in all, in the dark, over a bad 
 trail part of the way — a good night's work ! 
 
 Algernon and Tom C took a pack-pony down to the 
 
 flat, to get sugar, tea, and bacon. I went with them a couple 
 of miles, then I stopped to make a sketch, and after two 
 hours resaddled, fastened my drawing-block and other 
 tilings to my saddle by the buckskin thongs, and galloped 
 back to the house. 
 
 Two Indians who had brought potatoes seemed de- 
 lighted to go on a hunt with Algernon and N , and 
 
 accordingly they made up their minds to start at dawn the 
 following day. They were rather fine-looking Indians, and 
 wore their hair long, parted in the middle, and plaited 
 down the sides with beads and ribbons. They wore bead 
 necklaces and leather bracelets, studded with brass nails ; 
 also woollen shirts, and tight blanket leggings, fringed, and 
 reaching half way up their thighs, and a blanket fastened 
 round their waists by a cartridge-belt, which also held a 
 large hunting-knife, completed their costume. 
 
 The Indians mostly carry their rifles in covers, generally 
 made of buckskin, and often prettily worked with beads. 
 On their feet they wear moccasins ; at this time they are 
 
 ■MM 
 
t 
 
 XIV.] 
 
 A MINER'S OPINION, 
 
 i8i 
 
 all wearing old ones, as the hunting season has just 
 begun, but as soon as they have had time to dress some 
 hides, they will all appear in smart new ones. 
 
 Septemher \Uh. — Algernon, N , and three Indians, 
 
 with six horses, one of which carried the pack, started on 
 their hunt to-day. 
 
 Septemher l&th. — Mr. Irving, who was with us two days 
 ago, held a service at Canal Flat. We hoped to have 
 gone, though it was a ride of over twenty miles, but all 
 the ponies had stampeded except Adela's, and as they 
 were nowhere to be found we had to give it up. 
 
 The cold nights seemed somewhat to try the horses. 
 Adela's horse was ill to-day with a swelled throat, which we 
 blistered with mustard. We find that one of the "cayeuses" 
 we bought is well known as a beast that always strays and 
 take others away with him. An unpleasant discovery ! 
 
 One of the miners came up to see Tom C , who was 
 
 away, and we went out to speak to him. He said, " There 
 is one thing that surprises me about you two ladies." 
 
 I asked, "What is that?" 
 
 " Well," he said, " I've never before seen any real ladies 
 from the old country, and I always understood that they 
 would not speak to a fellow like me, and behaved so 
 haughty like. Now it's quite different to what I expected 
 with you two ladies ; and you are not dressed either as I 
 
 expected, but William " (a man the C shad brought from 
 
 England) "tells me if I saw you in England I should 
 
1 8a IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 hardly know you — that Lady A wears a hat there 
 
 ever so high on her head!" — which he evidently con- 
 sidered a sign of considerable distinction. 
 
 We were much amused with this old miner's candour. 
 No doubt, having lived in the mountains all his life, he 
 expected us to appear in silk gowns of bright colours, like 
 the pictures of beautiful ladies on pin-boxes. Instead of 
 this, we took the greatest trouble to procure sufficiently 
 rough clothes for the life out here, and wear the same 
 day after day. 
 
 The miners here are very simple in some ways, and are 
 apt to take things in too literal a sense. They are very 
 much down on ignorance of facts with which they are 
 acquainted. For instance, I gave them some books which 
 I thought would interest them ; they were selected by a 
 friend, and, needless to relate, were tales with a good 
 moral tendency. One of the books was called, "The 
 Californian Gold-Digger." A few days after their distri- 
 bution, Frank, one of the miners, told me " The story was 
 not true ; " that the whole thing was impossible ; that 
 he had read it; that "no woman could wander in the 
 woods with her child in a carriage for days together ; " in 
 the first place the carriage could not travel in the woods. 
 In fact, he was prepared to argue that the greater part of the 
 story was incorrect. No doubt he was right. Experienced 
 in the life of the woods, the inaccuracies struck him, and 
 in such a way that he doubted the whole of the book, and 
 the author's ultimate design was lost. 
 
 In another book the word " salvation " was mentioned. 
 
 . 
 
 aasi 
 
 mm 
 
\ 
 
 XIV.] 
 
 A RETICENT INDIAN, 
 
 183 
 
 A. miner asked Adela confidentially whether I belonged 
 to the Salvation Army, as I had given him a book wi< h 
 the word in it. Alas ! their utter ignorance and lack of 
 religious teaching made me feel quite sad. 
 
 The two maids were sulky, so Adela and I had a day's 
 washing, and after it was over were glad to see all the 
 clothes clean and hanging up to dry; half an hour's 
 washing, however, made my back and shoulders ache. 
 For those who only know the smooth side of life and are 
 dissatisfied, how excellent it would be if they were exiled 
 even for a month, and deprived of most of the comforts of 
 home life ; on their return, how they would appreciate theui! 
 
 In the afternoon one of the Indians who started with 
 
 Algernon and N came galloping up to the " shack." 
 
 We ran out to hear the news. Asked if he had a letter, he 
 looked at us in silence, for an Indian is always dignified 
 and reserved; but still he sat there, and I found, after 
 waiting some time, that he had a haunch of venison 
 fastened in a sack behind the saddle. We concluded this 
 to be the reason of his visit, and quickly appropriated the 
 venison. We had been without fresh meat for some days, 
 so were glad of it. Afterwards we found this meat had 
 been shot by some of the Indians. He had only come to 
 have a look at us on the way down the trail, "white 
 squaws" being still a ciiriosity in the Kootenay valley. 
 
 Tom C said I was the first person he had met who had 
 
 got something from an Indian for nothing ! A few days 
 afterwards I saw the same Indian again, and paid him for 
 what I had so calmly taken. 
 
i84 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Found the black horse to-day nearly strangled. He 
 had contrived to tie up his legs in a manner worthy of 
 Maskelyne and Cooke's best efforts ; so much so, that in a 
 few hours he would have died ; I cut him loose. A clever 
 cow pony will never come to grief with a lariat, and can 
 generally unwind himself by going the reverse way. This 
 was a tiresome, stupid animal all the time we had him. 
 It is most dangerous — so far as the ponies are concerned 
 — to place a knot at' the end of a lariat, as in the event 
 of a stampede the horse may hang himself by means of 
 the knot, and starve to death. Instances, alas ! are not 
 uncommon of ponies having met this fate. 
 
 As I was painting this afternoon, one of the miners 
 came with a message, and asked if he might see my 
 sketches, as he had " never seen a picture painted with a 
 brush." He looked with interest at several, and then 
 said, "Well, I never thought as how one could do all 
 these things with a brush and pencil. I thought as how 
 all these things were done by machinery." This man 
 had lived in the mountains for tliirty-three years, and 
 when I told him of the prices which were given for 
 beautiful pictures, he seemed utterly astonished. 
 
 September 22nd. — The weather commences to feel wintry, 
 and the nights are very cold ; the wind blows through this 
 wooden house, and there is a feeling of snow in the keen 
 air. The hunters have returned this evening ; both look 
 tired, having had no sport. I copy from Algernon's diary 
 an account of their week's expedition : — 
 
 i 
 
[chap. 
 
 XIV.] THE CAMP AT SKOOKUM'CHUCK, 185 
 
 led. He 
 v^orthy of 
 that in a 
 A clever 
 and can 
 y. This 
 iad him. 
 oncerned 
 .he event 
 neans of 
 are not 
 
 3 miners 
 
 see my 
 
 id with a 
 
 nd then 
 
 i do all 
 
 |b as how 
 
 lis man 
 
 irs, and 
 
 ven for 
 
 wintry, 
 igh this 
 he keen 
 th look 
 s diary 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 " We left with three Kootenays, all riding, and a pack- 
 " pony, to look for goat. The trail, after leaving the flat 
 " on the other side of Findlay Creek, was very rough, full 
 " of fallen timber, bogs, and nearly perpendicular bluffs. 
 " Our animals are excellent mountain ponies. We camped 
 " the first night about half-way to Skookum-chuck (* quick 
 " water '), at an old prospector's camp. No tent required, 
 " as the night was lovely. The ponies found plenty of 
 " grass as we hobbled them. 
 
 " Started at 5 a.m. A much worse trail ; one of the 
 " Indians staked his pony, and had to leave him hobbled 
 " on the trail. Got to Skookum-chuck at 4 p.m. ; went 
 " to look for deer. 
 
 " Tuesday. — This is a lovely creek and fine scenery. 
 " We went along the bank up-stream for about six hours, 
 " and camped at an old Indian camp — quite the most 
 " beautiful situation one could imagine. I wish(;d to try 
 " for goat here, as there were heaps of fresh sign, but 
 " the Indians said there were none here now, and promised 
 
 " any number farther up the creek. N and I 
 
 " went up a goat-traU in the evening, and waited in hopes 
 " of catching one coming down from the range to drink, 
 " but had no luck. 
 
 " Wednesday. — Went further up the creek iio the pro- 
 " mised 'happy hunting-grounds,' I climbed a nearly 
 " perpendicular mountain 3,000 or 4,000 feet, and when 
 " on top, saw only a succession of precipices, with no sign 
 " of goat. The Indian went as fast as he could, and had 
 " no knowledge of hunting — more of trying to run me out 
 
i86 IMPJiESSWA^S OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " of sight ; so I told him, * Not my idea of hunting ; no 
 " sign of goat.' This made Louis very sulky, and as they 
 " were utterly useless as hunters, we decided to return. 
 
 "Friday. — Started at dawn, after some trouble in 
 
 " catching Pongo, N 's pony. The trail led first up a 
 
 " terribly steep zigzag for 2,000 or 3,000 feet ; then a 
 " descent began through very thick scrub over our heads, 
 " through which we made our way as best we could, over 
 " endless ' windfalls ' and rocks. By this time it was pour- 
 " ing with rain, and at intc /als it changed to heavy sleet 
 " or snow, so that in a short time we had not a dry rag on 
 " us. After several hours of this work, the trail having 
 " quite given out, we scaled another mountain. Struck 
 " the trail near the top, and at last got well above the 
 " snow-line, making up our minds to camp in an old crater 
 " we found with a small lake in it — a most lovely sp ";. 
 " Jnst as we were getting do-v^n to the lake, Louis, who 
 " was a few yards ahead with the pack-pony, saw a small 
 " bear, and at once fired, without waiting for one of us. 
 " Needless to say, he missed, as most of the Indians are 
 " poor shots, especially at any running object. For any one 
 " who could shoo^ at all, it would have been an easy mark. 
 " After changing into some dry things, as it was freezing as 
 " hard as it could up here, I went out to prospect for goat, 
 " but with no better luck, beyond seeing some old tracks. 
 
 " Saturday. — An caly start. The scenery when we rode 
 " on to the summit from our camping-ground was most 
 " magnificent. The Selkirks and Eockies, with their tops 
 " covered with snow, and with the rising sun shining on 
 
 t 
 
 ' 
 
XIV.] 
 
 A STAMPEDE. 
 
 187 
 
 " them, extended for hundreds of miles around us, for we 
 " were at a great height, and in a wonderfully clear atmo- 
 
 *' sphere. A rough trail and steep. We reached the C 's 
 
 " camp tired and hungry." 
 
 H 
 
 t 
 
 From the foregoing, one can see that many of the 
 Indians at the present time will take sportsmen away 
 from game, so anxious are they to keep it for themselves. 
 Those districts where the Indians are great hunters are 
 the worst places for white m?n to find sport. 
 
 J 
 
 V. 
 
 September 25th. — ^I now resume my journal. The horses 
 all stampeded during the night, though picketed with the 
 greatest care; but the soil here holds picket-pins very 
 badly. We thought a bear or wolf must have been the 
 cause. We found it most annoying ; all had to turn out 
 to search for the missing horses. We walked in different 
 directions, and for many hours ; sometimes a burnt stump 
 in the far distance seemed to shape itself to one's excited 
 imagination into the form of one of the black ponies. We 
 met the Indian pony staked at Skookum-chuck, looking 
 well and fat ; then we got on the trail of a lariat, and fol- 
 lowed a long distance, only to find a black horse belonging 
 to the upper camp. Starlight at last we found wandering 
 alone, with liis lariat broken, and saw other five ponies, 
 but alas ! none of them aurs. The sun was hot, and 
 walking through the long grass and windfalls was very 
 fatiguing ; at length we began to retrace our steps. 
 
 I was glad to meet Algernon with Adela's horse, on 
 
,x 
 
 188 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 which he had put a Californian saddle, and come to find 
 me from the upper camp. I tried to ride sideways, but 
 that did not do, so seated myself in the ordinary way. I 
 suppose custom is everything, but I felt very little would 
 send me flying — an inglorious voluntary. All the squaws 
 " out West " ride across, and ride very well. 
 
 On reaching the upper camp, met Adela. She had 
 found all the horses except one — the black one with a 
 white blaze — our bane, and also not paid for ! We spent 
 the afternoon looking for him, without success. 
 
 Septcmher 2&th. — Algernon was up early, and shot a 
 grey wolf which was trying to play with the dogs ; a 
 huge brute it was, with a good coat, and not unlike an 
 " Esqui " dog in colour. We had heard the wolves making 
 a great noise for several nights, but did not think they 
 would venture so near in the daytime. Algernon prepared 
 the head for stuffing, and the skin was stretched to dry on 
 the wall in the sun. 
 
 Adela and I searched for the lost pony. We feared he 
 was stolen, or hung up somewhere in the way I have 
 already described ; if the latter, we felt no time was to be 
 lost, so we searched all the woods round for him, but with 
 no success. 
 
 We never saw or heard of him again. 
 
 ■ 
 
XV.] 
 
 ( 189 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE XV. 
 
 In Search of better Sport— Life at Findlay 
 • Creek— Good-bye— Days on the Trail. 
 
 " And so in mountain solitudes o'ertaken, 
 As by some spell divine 
 Tiieir cares drop from them, like the needles shaken 
 From out the gusty pine."— J5re< J5br<e. 
 
 Findlay Creek, September 27^^.- Algernon and N- 
 
 said good-bye to Findlay Creek, having arranged to meet 
 
 their hunters at Windermere. Tom C went also 
 
 on his way to Calgary, Adela and I rode part of the 
 way with them, and I felt rather depressed at being 
 left behind, but Algernon thought I could not stand the 
 rough work or walking. 
 
 Margeau, the half-breed, one of the best hunters in the 
 Kootenay Valley, when they saw him three weeks ago, 
 told them that last year he was out with two Austrians ; 
 they had seven pack ponies, and as far as he could see, 
 one of the ponies carried a load of white pocket-handker- 
 chiefs ! the quantity of " kit " these men had seemed to 
 amuse him very much. • 
 
I90 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Algernon and N- 
 
 - have started off on this their third 
 hunt with renewed hope and energy. 
 
 The house was very lonely to-night with all the 
 men gone, and the stillness only broken by the dismal 
 howling of the wolves. But though we hung up the 
 carcase of the dead wolf as a bait, we did not get a shot, 
 these animals being most wary. 
 
 Our days were mostly spent in riding about seeking for 
 the missing horse, and in visiting the hydraulic. The 
 weather was delightful, a hot sun with a light breeze off 
 the mountains. "We passed in our rides sometimes over 
 flats covered with bunch grass, and here and there clumps 
 of pine-trees, with high wooded hiUs on either side ; now 
 and then our ponies had to climb over windfalls or down 
 the side of some steep rocky gulch. 
 
 I had my rifle hitched to my saddle, and felt 
 happier with it there. We passed many elk-horns lying 
 about, some of them large ones. The Indians seem to 
 have cleared this part of the country of game ; last year 
 at their Christmas feast they had 800 deer ; they kill 
 them in season and out of season, which seems a great 
 pity. 
 
 My pony '* Baldie " and I have become good friends ; 
 he is a queer-lcoking creature, with a white blaze on his 
 forehead and four white legs, but pretty tough and a good 
 hack. If he is given an hour or two's rest with his 
 saddle off (when he enjoys a good roll), he can canter 
 along with me all day ; he likes to drink at every creek 
 
■■ 
 
 T. [chap, 
 their third 
 
 li all the 
 (he dismal 
 g up the 
 get a shot, 
 
 eeking for 
 ilic. The 
 breeze off 
 imes over 
 ire clumps 
 side ; now 
 J or down 
 
 and felt 
 
 rns lying 
 
 seem to 
 
 ast year 
 
 ley kill 
 
 a great 
 
 friends ; 
 ze on his 
 d a good 
 with his 
 1 canter 
 ry creek 
 
 XV.] 
 
 DIFFICULTIES OF MINING. 
 
 191 
 
 he passes, and no amount of water seems to do him 
 any harm. 
 
 October 2nd. — There is much sameness in our daily 
 record. We eat, drink, and sleep ; we would read books, 
 but that our small library has become exhausted. No 
 post, no church, no garden, and all the wool I was making 
 stockings with is also finished. 
 
 The miners have almost got down to the bed-rock in 
 the river ; hard work ; the men continually have to keep 
 moving large stones and rocks which impede their progress, 
 and when unable to do so, they have to blow them up with 
 dynamite. The Chinamen who work here are miserable- 
 looking specimens, and do all this labour, feeding almost 
 entirely on rice ; the horrible effects of opium-smoking are 
 seen in their languidness and death-like pallor. 
 
 The difficulties connected with mining here are very 
 great. Though the men have only been working a short 
 time, the ditch which carries the water has broken 
 incessantly ; this is from no fault in construction, but 
 because the banks in some places have not settled. All 
 this delays the work, for when a break occurs the water 
 must at once be turned off at the nearest gate to prevent 
 further damage. The ditch carrying the water for this 
 hydraulic comes a distance of five miles. 
 
 October Srd. — Last night I felt somewhat alarmed, 
 having heard Indians passing just before we went to bed. 
 Here we are with only two English maids and a lad 
 
'1 . 
 
 192 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 who had lately come from England. Adela (to prevent 
 my being frightened) assured me that there were no 
 Indians, that I was mistaken, in fact, that it was only 
 the lad snoring, but this morning we saw two Indians 
 coming down from the upper camp; they had passed 
 during the night, driving some cattle with them ; these 
 were the sounds that had disturbed me. 
 
 The Indians do not sell their calves, but sell yearlings 
 which have been on the range the better part of two 
 summers ; the meat of these is excellent ; perhaps feeding 
 on the bunch grass brings the animal to earlier maturity 
 than with us. A two-year-old steer, which will weigh 
 500 lbs., can be bought for $30 = £8, his value when killed 
 being about 6 cents per lb., or about 3c?. in our money. 
 
 We called the Indians, as I wanted to buy some of 
 their ornaments, and when they rode up to the house, we 
 gave them each some tobacco, and I purchased from 
 them an embroidered fire-bag, with a fringe of mink tails, 
 and a bead necklace strung on leather. The Indians 
 spoke to each other all the time, and I heard one of them 
 say in Chinook " that there were a lot of Clootchmans 
 (women) about." Adela whispered, "Let them go, it's 
 time they went away." I saw she was uneasy, and I 
 was not sorry when they rode off. 
 
 Our life here is an entirely outdoor one, and the weather 
 having been so fine for the last six weeks, has made the 
 greatest difference in the pleasure of our visit. 
 
 Vrmlst sketching one day, Adela and 1 viewed two 
 
 1 
 
XV.] 
 
 « CAPLA» 
 
 193 
 
 f 
 
 partridges ; the gun was two miles away at the shack, but 
 she quickly jumped on one of the ponies, and returned 
 with it. We were so pleased, and even thought of our 
 possible dinner. Alas! there is many a slip 'twixt the 
 cup and the lip. The too impulsive deerhound ran in too 
 soon, spoilt our chance, and we saw our hoped-for dinner 
 fly away. Partridges are scarce here, owing to the number 
 of grey wolves, which prey upon them when no larger 
 game is to be procured. 
 
 We have been expecting C 's return for the last 
 
 three days ; the anxiety of being without men in the house 
 we do not like; I have kept my little Colt's repeating 
 rifle loaded in my room, and Adela has a pistoL 
 
 We had almost given up hopes of him when I heard a 
 holloa, and we saw a cloud of dust coming up the trail, 
 and in a short time he was with us. His pony was about 
 "played out." I took charge of poor "Whitebait," 
 watered him, took off his saddle and bridle, and turned 
 him loose ; no wonder he was tired, for he had come about 
 80 miles in two days. • 
 
 Adela tells us to-night how pleased she was when our 
 Indian visitors rode away the other day, as she recognised 
 one of them as " Capla " as soon as she saw them, he 
 being the Indian who shot two white men in the valley 
 some time before. The story is as follows, but certainly 
 there were extenuating circumstances : — 
 
 In some out-of-the-way place, Capla met two miners ; 
 he was starving, and asked for food; this they refused 
 to give, and moreover told him that they would 
 
 
 
 Ji 
 
194 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOJ, [chap. 
 
 : 
 
 shoot him if he did not " clear out." He went, but waited 
 until they gave him a chance, and then shot them both. 
 A squaw of his own tribe informed the police, but there 
 was not sufficient evidence to convict him, and he got off ; 
 he has been rather avoided by the settlers and miners 
 since that time. 
 
 One day I said to Frank (one of the miners), " Don't 
 you know any good stories to tell me ? " 
 
 " Well, I guess, a good many. In the year 1863, a lot 
 " of us were up in the Yellowstone Park, at a place they 
 ♦* called the Big Gulch. Well, the party were attacked by 
 " Indians ; we were eighteen hunters, but we knew that the 
 " 300 Indians would wipe us all out if they got the chance ; 
 *' having a good quantity of ammunition, we were able to 
 " hold our own. One of the hunters had an Indian wife ; 
 " she fought for us against her people, killing seven Indians 
 " to her own rifle, and when the bullets were nearly all 
 " used up, she made more under a heavy fire. Ah ! she 
 " was a good woman for fighting ; we repulsed the attack 
 " after many hours. 
 
 ** Yes, I could tell you many stories of things I've seen 
 myself : — 
 
 " On the Mississippi one time, when the miners were 
 " away from camp, the Indians came down, cleared the 
 " camp of all that there was to carry away ; one person 
 ♦' was in it, a white woman, the wife of one of rhe men ; 
 •" her they knocked on the head and scalped, leaving her 
 " for dead. In the evening, however, when the miners 
 " returned, they found she was not dead but scalped, and 
 
 : 
 
 
XV.] 
 
 THE PRAIRIE INDIANS. 
 
 195 
 
 " what was worse, the scalp carried off, aud irretrievably 
 " gone ! " 
 
 " Did she live ? " I asked. 
 
 " Oh, yes, she lived. She was ill all winter, but the 
 " boys made a sort of plaster of canvas and balsam they got 
 " off the trees, and put her head into a case of this, and 
 " when she got well they got her a wig. We were soon 
 " even with them ; we killed eighteen Indians that night, 
 " and put their heads in a row close to where the steamer 
 " passed. Some fresh comers on board were shocked at 
 " the sight, called us cruel : we were armed, and forced them 
 " to leave the steamer, and come with us to our camp, 
 " where they saw the scalped woman. They did not call 
 " us cruel then ! " 
 
 These pioneering days must have been troublesome and 
 rough ; although things are changed for the better now, so 
 lately as five years ago our host found three dead men on 
 the trail as he was coming up to Findlay Creek from 
 Golden. 
 
 The Prairie Indians in the North-West Territory do not 
 take to industrial pursuits like those in British Columbia, 
 and for this reason, that while the former have Government 
 grants and rations, the latter have none; therefore they 
 like farming, fishing, lumbering, and such work, while 
 the Prairie Indians, having no incentive to work, hunt, 
 and this is their sole occupation. The system of reserva- 
 tions is just and right. They provide a settled home to 
 those Indians who would otherwise be without land of 
 their own ; but education for the rising generation would 
 
 2 
 
196 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 be decidedly more advantageous than the system of 
 rations, which only tends to pauperize them, while many 
 of the poor Indians, being completely in the power of the 
 agents who distribute the rations, are robbed by them in 
 the most disgraceful manner. 
 
 In Canada the Indians are in undisputed possession of 
 their reserves, and long may it be so, until time and the 
 march of civilisat'on transform them into a useful 
 population. 
 
 October Ihth. — Lovely weather, with brilliant sunshine. 
 Had we been in a log-house we should have felt 
 perfectly warm; but it got bitterly cold at night in the 
 " shack." When I opened my little window in the early 
 morning, the temperature was the same outside and in ; 
 the water was frozen in my basin, and my sponge like a 
 rock. Fortunately I have warm clothes — one requires 
 them — and also I have a large indiarubber water-bag 
 which is almost a necessity when travelling in out-of-the- 
 way places, which I put into my bed at night, and is a 
 great comfort. We have nailed woollen shawls up to 
 keep off the draughts, as we were all beginning to suffer 
 from the effects of them. A log-house is usually built by 
 squaring the logs, and notching them ^a lieia they cross at 
 the corners, so that they fit closely together, the notches 
 also binding the building firmly ; the roof is also made 
 of logs resting on a strong roof-tree, and covered with a 
 foot of earth. If it be wished to make the house extra 
 warm, the chinks between the logs are filled with moss. 
 
of 
 
 XV.] 
 
 THE STAGE WAGGON. 
 
 197 
 
 A shack is built by nailing boards upright to a frame the 
 size of the intended house; the roof is also of boards 
 roughly nailed on, and the whole construction often leaks 
 like a sieve. 
 
 A passing Indian promised to deliver a letter tu 
 Algernon. Having been paid, he started, after a long 
 and animated conversation chiefly carried on by signs, 
 during which he repeatedly nodded his head, and I fondly 
 imagined understood. I enclosed my letter to Captain 
 Armstrong, who, I knew, would send it to Algernon where 
 he is hunting on Horse-thief Creek. (I may mention that 
 the Indian did not ful'y understand me. He thought he 
 had to find Algernon, and never went to Captain 
 Armstrong. He followed the former's trail for three days, 
 and then, finding it led over a small glacier, and a storm 
 coming on, he, as the miners say, made tracks for home. 
 As he had had a three days' ride for his two dollars, he 
 was not overpaid, although unsuccessful in his mission.) 
 
 The stage waggon, with four very hard-worked-looking 
 ponies, came up this afternoon. The driver told us that 
 Capla, the Indian I mentioned before, " held up " a man 
 yesterday and took $16 from him. To hold a man up in 
 North-West parlance means to threaten to shoot him if he 
 does not hold his hands up over his head. The man 
 seemed frightened, and after being robbed offered Capla 
 his watch, which was promptly thrown back in his face. 
 We travel over the same trail to-morrow and next day, 
 but the driver has his revolver, and I decided to hitch my 
 rifle on to my saddle. 
 
^w 
 
 r 
 
 .-J 
 
 
 198 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Said good-bye to Findlay Creek. I was sorry to leave 
 
 the C s behind (they are going to move to the 
 
 log camp farther up the valley), but glad to leave the 
 place, as the cold was intense, being below zero. I 
 preferred to ride all the way, as the jolting and discomfort 
 of driving over a rough trail is more easily imagined than 
 described. We all breakfasted in our fur cloaks, but the 
 bright sunshine soon made us feel warmer. 
 
 The stage waggon came to the door at 8 a.m. The 
 
 baggage was quickly packed ; the C s sent all their 
 
 heavy things, as this was the last chance of their having 
 them conveyed by steamer on the Columbia this year, as 
 the river was beginning to freeze up. Then Adela's two 
 maids, who looked upon theu' journey as a very important 
 
 one, were seated, and lastly Percy D , who seems to have 
 
 had enough gold-mining for the present, one half-day's 
 hard work at the hydraulic having damped liis youthful 
 ardour. 
 
 Fresh snow lies on the mountains everywhere ; white 
 hoar-frost has covered the trees, the leaves, and the grass, 
 and the ground crackles under the weight of the ponies 
 and waggon. So cold is it that I am glad to fasten my 
 big cloak round me as I ride along. 
 
 Findlay Creek looked its best as we were leaving ; the 
 mountains covered with snow, the foreground of larch and 
 dark green stone-pine standing out sharply in the clear 
 atmosphere of a winter day. The trail about 150 feet 
 above the creek did not daunt the Jehu of the waggon, 
 who, by many imprecations, threats, and a free use of the 
 
 ■ 
 
XV.] 
 
 THE FORCE OF HABIT. 
 
 199 
 
 whip, urged the ponies into a hand-gallop, and, with only 
 sufficient room for the waggon to pass, they made the 
 best pa?.e they could over a very bad road. Custom 
 certainly makes a difference to every one ; indeed, I am 
 not at all sure that habit is not often mistaken for courage. 
 A man accustomed to horses is not afraid of them, neither 
 is a sailor afraid in a boat, but a tailor or a landsman 
 might in their places be wrongly mistaken for a coward. 
 
 . / 
 
 tf-i fe A a a fe a g e s; 
 
200 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Brewer's " Stopping-housk " — Hot Springs — Indian 
 Women — From Windermere to Goldkn City. 
 
 ' - * 
 
 *' From toil he wins his spirits light, 
 From busy day the peaceful uight ; 
 Rich, from the very want of wealth, 
 In heaven's best treasures, peace and health." — Orey. 
 
 After an eight hours' ride Mrs Brewer, the wife of the 
 proprietor of the " stopping-house " at Hot Springs, greets 
 me at her door with " Oh ! you've come, have you ? I was 
 expecting you." 
 
 Adela's two maids and Percy D arrive ten minutes 
 
 later in the waggon. It amuses me to notice that the maids 
 have donned a quantity of tawdry jewellery during their 
 drive; this seems to impress Mrs. Brewer, who receives 
 them as visitors of much greater distinction than myself. 
 We follow her into the kitchen, and not having had any- 
 thing to eat since 7 A.M., I ask for a cup of tea. She says 
 nothing, but begins an impromptu toilet, first brushing and 
 replaiting her hair, then by placing a tin basin on the 
 stove she contrives to get the chill off the water, and 
 
Bnr! 
 
 ,u>i i,wi"g: 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 XVI.] 
 
 MRS. BREWER ON MANNERS. 
 
 20I 
 
 IAN 
 
 rthe 
 
 reets 
 
 was 
 
 lutes 
 laids 
 ;heir 
 >ives 
 self, 
 my- 
 3ays 
 and 
 the 
 and 
 
 I 
 
 with the aid of some yellow soap produces a most excellent 
 polish on her good-humoured face ; she then suddenly 
 appears in a clean gown, fastening with the aid of a large 
 brass pin, a coloured kerchief round her neck, and while 
 donning these garments keeps up a running conversation 
 with us, the principal subject of it being complaints 
 of how Brewer's manners have fallen off since he came to 
 this country ! Mrs. Brewer, thoujrh Irish, is a good type 
 of a " western woman," for she does the whole work of the 
 ^•topping-house," having to get through all the cleaning 
 and cooking, besides the waiting on fourteen or fifteen 
 people at their meals three times a day. I am so much 
 amused with her and her conversation that I forget all 
 about my tea, and having been told there are sulphur 
 springs near here, am just starting out to find them, when 
 I am recalled by Mrs. Brewer's lusty voice, " It is only at 
 " this first tea that stewed cabbage and hashed turnips are 
 " provided," so I gladly sit down at once to revel in these 
 delicacj 'a of civilisation! The meat, however, is very 
 tou^ii -rsirJ er makes me fancy I am eating the sole of my 
 shot ; ? ': t; are are excellent rolls, potatoes, and molasses. 
 Brewer (6 ?. hard-working man, and in spite of liis wife's 
 complaints of the effects of British Columbia on his 
 manners, I find they are still much better than her own. 
 Every picture has its pathetic side. This couple have 
 been married thirteen years and have one small child, poor 
 lit?-; fellow! when only eight months old he fell into the 
 file, w.i'A half his face was dreadfully burnt; the hard- 
 work !ijg mother stopped to tell me all about the accident, 
 
1 
 
 202 IMx^RESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT. Fchap. 
 
 ,•! 
 
 i 
 
 and of how unhappy they both were when they thought 
 they would lose him. In their love fch^3 disfigurements 
 of his little face are forgotten ! There are no fewer than 
 sixteen cats under the stove; the little burnt child sits 
 and hugs the kittens in his arms, until one wonders they 
 are not squeezed to death. This army of cats is required 
 to keep the mountain rats in check ; they are very destruc- 
 tive and will ruin a gr<Mle in a few hours, and have a 
 curious habit of carrying my shining object to their 
 
 holes ; they will also empty a ^ack of grain in an incredibly 
 short time. 
 
 Brewer came to talk to me after tea ; he asked me if I 
 should like to see his gold nuggets, and having replied in 
 the afitirmative, he returned presently with several small 
 canvas bags full of them ; the value of the gold he said 
 was about £300. Here, with all sorts of people coming 
 and going, he seemed to have no anxiety about the safety 
 of his treasure. This speaks well for the country. 
 
 I must also mention that during the whole time of our 
 visit in the mountains, though we kept all the saddles, 
 bridles, and lariats under the verandah by the front door, 
 nothing was ever lost or missing. 
 
 I started for the Hot Springs after tea. A climb over a 
 steep trail of nearly a mile brought me to the first basin, 
 the water of which is perfectly hot and very clear ; it is 
 eight or nine feet long, about two feet deep and four 
 feet wide; the overflow leaves a curious rocky-looking 
 deposit, and in the crevices of the sandstone below 
 quantities of maiden-hair fern grow. It is curious to see 
 
 
XVI.] 
 
 HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 203 
 
 such delicate ferns growing here where the temperature is 
 so low at night ; but if one feels the ground, it proves quite 
 warm, and must have, therefore, the same effect as a hot-bed. 
 On going a couple of hundred yards further and making 
 a steep descent, I found myself by the side of a mountain 
 stream. Another large basin had been formed here, and 
 into it tlie clear water comes bubbling up boiling hot, 
 looking like champagne, while by the side of it runs the 
 icy cold water of the mountain stream. I felt much 
 tempted to have a bathe, but just as I had made up my 
 mind to do so two miners appeared on the scene. 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 October 16^A.— The mail waggon did not start till 12.30, 
 and we had a shorter distance to go to-day, so I amuse 
 myself wandering about. The morning was very cold 
 and sunless, but fortunately the snow kept off. The 
 r.rail seemed quite lively with passers-by; first come 
 three bullock teams, hauling heavy loads of lumber; 
 the great creatures move slowly but do ten miles a 
 day, oxen taking much longer to feed than horses. Then 
 pass three squaws, with ten ponies, evidently following 
 the men who went up yesterday evening, on their 
 way to hunt. The women ride astride their saddles, 
 and do not seem to mind what load their ponies 
 carry. One squaw has two boys on the pony with her, 
 another carries in the hood of her blanket a crying 
 papoose, while the third conveys a cat in the same way. 
 Thfc children seem much frightened when I go to speak to 
 them, evidently not being used to " white " people. I 
 
 ' -iifivri»K Wt urn* ■■ >■ 
 
f 
 
 .' 
 
 204 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 make them understand by signs that I wish to purchase 
 one of their " quirts " (riding- whips) ; they sieem amused, 
 and I secure one for $1. It consists of a short wooden 
 handle, painted red and ornamented with brass nails, 
 having at one end a loop of coloured cloth for the wrist 
 and at the other end two leather thongs, which form a lash 
 about two feet long. 
 
 At last the time came to start ; the four ponies were 
 caught, and harnessed to the waggon. I saddled up 
 Baldy, and said good-bye to Mrs. Brewer, who regretted 
 that she had not had more time to talk to me and to the 
 two maids ! 
 
 Shortly before we left, a waggon arrived from Canal 
 Flat with two poor men in it very ill with mountain 
 fever ; they asked for beef tea ; stewed beef was offered 
 to them instead. Fortunately I had a sausage of Brand's 
 beef tea, and was very glad to give them some of it. (For 
 the next three days they happened to travel with me, 
 and 1 was able to doctor them with chlorodyne, and other 
 things, which I think saved their lives ; they had no one 
 else to look after them.) 
 
 I kept as near the waggon as I could, as there had been 
 a scare about the Indians the day before. At one place 
 we heard some shouting, but found it was only some 
 Indians bringing a band of horses down the trail. Tliey 
 generally on good ground go at full gallop and seldom 
 lose a pony, as they are accustomed to be driven in this 
 way. From the time they are small foals they follow 
 their mothers, and instances have been known of their 
 
 'V««.fM'*««r4>-4r-h-«Hfr««^>-«— fw,^ ■••^■'.^A 
 
XVI.] 
 
 THE WINDERMERE HOTEL. 
 
 205 
 
 going forty to sixty miles when only a week old. In this 
 way they become tractable before they are broken. All 
 the time we were in British Columbia, we never saw a 
 lame or broken-kneed pony, although taken very long 
 
 journeys. Percy D got the loan of a pony, and 
 
 therefore I had a companion for the remainder of my ride 
 to Windermere, '^ which I was glad, as to ride with a 
 waggon is to go at a very tiresome pace. 
 
 i 
 
 We cantered along leaving the stage far behind, and 
 just as it was getting dark, reached the wooden house 
 near the Columbia Lake, which is designated the " Winder- 
 mere Hotel." Imagine my pleasure ; the first person who 
 
 greeted me was Algernon ; he and N had both come 
 
 in from the mountains two hours before, and were greatly 
 astonished to see me, thinking I had left Findlay Creek 
 some time ago. They looked tired and unkempt, having 
 been for twenty-four hours without food. 
 
 Everything was beautifully clean, and we enjoyed 
 a most excellent tea, the only drawback to our repose 
 and comfort being the " Saloon " or " Bar." After we had 
 gone to bed, there was too much noise to allow us to sleep, 
 and the drunken orgie ended in what they call a " Bull's 
 Ball " in this country. A fiddler arrived, about thirty men 
 danced together, and the shuffling of feet and the talking 
 and the laughing, and the reek of bad tobacco, disturbed 
 us until an early hour the next morning. 
 
 Algernon is wakened by N at 4 A.M., and on 
 
 going out to the stables they find the white pony and 
 
i 
 
 '•! 
 
 i 
 
 ao6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 anothei, belonging to the manager of the hotel, gone ; but 
 after an hour's search, they are both recovered. One of 
 the drunken heroes of the night's merry-making let them 
 out of the stables. At first we heard that they were 
 stolen, and Algernon at once equipped himself to go after 
 the thief. I was so glad that this was not necessary, 
 as besides the risks, had he ridden in the opposite 
 direction, we should have missed the steamer, the last one 
 down the Columbia this year, and I heard that the 150 
 miles' ride to Golden was over a very bad trail. 
 
 Algernon saddled the ponies and we started for the ten- 
 mile ride down the trail to the steamer. The weather 
 looked threatening, but fortunately held up until we were 
 quite near the end of our ride. Three waggons with pas- 
 sengers of all sorts followed us. The Government have 
 been improving the trail, which is now much better than 
 it was last year. At length we reached the boat, and were 
 welcomed by Captain Armstrong, and as there is no cabin 
 on the Marion, we were glad to avail ourselves of his kind 
 offer of tea in the warehouse, where there is a cooking- 
 stove, used to prepare food for some men whom he has 
 working above here to improve the channel of the river. 
 At first the prospects of our journey looked gloomy 
 enough. There was no possible room for the ponies on 
 board, and it seemed as likely as not that we should have 
 to ride them ourselves all the way to Golden. Fortunately, 
 as the boat was about to start, a man was found who was 
 willing to take them down for us for the sum of $12. 
 
 There was a board roof or hurricane deck, with canvas 
 
 . i 
 
XVI.] 
 
 THE " MARION." 
 
 207 
 
 hangings at the sides, which afforded some shelter against 
 
 the rain, which came down in torrents. The passengers sat 
 
 shivering round the funnel of the steamer, while the poor 
 
 sick men were stretched out on blankets amidships. The 
 
 larger steamer The Ducliess no longer runs on the river, as 
 
 she draws too much water. The Marion^ therefore, a 
 
 much smaller boat, has taken her place, which the men 
 
 say could float in a heavy dew ! When full of cargo and 
 
 passengers, she draws little more than a foot of water. 
 
 The day improved as we ran down the river, and the 
 
 wheel-house where Captain Armstrciij.^ allowed us to sit 
 
 » 
 was certainly the most comfortable j)lace in the boat, and 
 
 from it we had beautiful views of the river as we steamed 
 
 along. The heavy mist rose slowly off the mountains on 
 
 either side of the valley, and let us see the hills, quite 
 
 white with snow. - 
 
 Bump ! bump ! bump ! arid we were aground upon a 
 sand-bank. After much patient work with poles, and 
 having made a hawser fast to a tree on the bank, which 
 all the men on board hauled at with a will, the Marion 
 was floated again. This happened several times, and 
 rendered our progress rather slow. 
 
 At one place, as we drew near the bank to " wood up," 
 — as taking on board wood for tlie engines is called, — Al- 
 gernon sees Moulson, a miner and hunter whom we saw 
 on our way up. He tells us that the Shushwap Indians 
 have had good hunting in the neighbourhood, so Algernon 
 decides to remain for a week and have a hunt with him. 
 We hastily collect his blankets, rifle, cartridges, and 
 

 ao8 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 kit-bag, have only just time to say good-bye before the 
 steamer starts, and we leave them standing on the bank. 
 
 N has had enough of it, he says ; and certainly it 
 
 must be very cold work camping out at night, with the 
 thermometer below zero. 
 
 The storm which was so severe in the mountains a few 
 days ago is over, and after the first fall of snow there is 
 often a good chance of getting bear, before they finally 
 settle down in their winter quarters. 
 
 I much wished to stay with Algernon, but N and 
 
 Captain Armstrong advised me strongly against doing so, 
 both on account of the cold and also because a third 
 person's presence might diminish the chances of sport; 
 and further, they will need a pack-pony, and they hope to 
 get ours on the way to Golden. 
 
 N goes to Mitford en route for England at once, 
 
 while I am bound for Banff Hotel as the nearest point 
 where I can wait for Algernon. Meantime, as we steam 
 along, the amusement of firing at ducks and geese with a 
 rifle is diverting ; but as the birds get alarmed the moment 
 they hear the boat coming, we put down the rifles. Then, 
 bad luck ! from a bed of rushes up rise three large geese. 
 
 All the lakes which lie along the Columbia valley are 
 covered with wild-fowl at the present time ; besides wild 
 swan, there are geese, ducks, herons, bitterns, grebes, 
 pelicans, and many other varieties in abundance. We hear 
 the weird cries of many of these birds towards evening, 
 and it becomes too dark at 6 o'clock to proceed further. 
 
 The steamboat is moored near the bank, by a log-house 
 
 ^i 
 
' 
 
 ise 
 
 XVI.] WHEEL-HOUSE AS MY BEDROOM, 209 
 
 owned by a man called " Dutch Pete " — not an uncommon 
 name in the Columbia valley, for we have already heard 
 of " Shushwap Pete " and " Kootenay Pete." 
 
 Our landlord looks exactly as if he had tumbled out of 
 one of Teniers' pictures ; he is rather stout, with fair hair, 
 has a Dutch-looking face, wears a round-brimmed hat, 
 and the inevitable pipe is always in his mouth; and 
 though apparently rather overwhelmed by such a sudden 
 invasion, he soon rises to the emergency. He has to pre- 
 pare supper for twelve hungry people. The log-house is 
 divided into three rooms ; in one of them the sick men 
 are lodged ; in the centre room, which is provided with a 
 good wooden table and long benches, we are all glad to sit 
 down and wait for supper. 
 
 There are three women on the steamer besides myself ; 
 they have the third room allotted to them, while Captain 
 Armstrong kindly gives me the wheel-house on the 
 steamer as my sleeping-place. It has the merit of being 
 quiet, and though it is tiny, I have it all to myself; 
 so with my warm blankets and fur rugs, I shall be fairly 
 comfortable, and able to defy the weather. The night 
 air is exceedingly cold, and the evening almost as light 
 as day now the moon is up, and thousands of stars are 
 visible. 
 
 We are all very hungry, and glad when, after a great deal 
 of shuffling, whispering, and preparation, supper is at last 
 ready ; and really excellent it is for such a place, for we 
 have beefsteaks (where from?) and baked potatoes, hot 
 rolls and tea, with good salt butter, I sit near Captain 
 
210 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 5; 
 
 •< 
 
 Armstrong ; opposite to me is a female passenger, returning 
 from Windermere. She wears upon her head a thing they 
 please to call a " Fascinator." It fascinates me, but not 
 in the way its owner would wisli ; for as I look at this 
 comical brown woollen liead-dress trimmed with beads, it 
 makes me smile, in spite of my efforts not to do so, 
 I am asked to explain the reason of my amusement 
 
 by N and Captain Armstrong, but of course I 
 
 cannot. • 
 
 Some one to-morrow will mourn the loss of these beef- 
 steaks which we have so much appreciated this evening, 
 because they were put in a " cache. " * by a boatman who 
 went up the river yesterday, for food on the way down. 
 No ill-feeling seems to result from thus taking possession 
 of the property of another ; that it was required to feed 
 hungry people seems sufficient excuso. 
 
 This stopping-house is what I expected, but the English 
 maids, who have been rendered perfectly unbearable by 
 the attentions they have received during their exit from 
 British Columbia, complain bitterly of their discomforts, 
 and of the cold. 
 
 In order to be a good traveller, one must always be 
 prepared to accept the inevitable, and I am sure this rule 
 would also apply well to all travellers on life's journey. 
 These months in the Eocky Mountains have taught me a 
 great deal in that way. When I see these poor sick men 
 enduring all this cold and fatigue uncomplainingly, I 
 thank God that we are all well after our wanderings. 
 
 ■ * Hiding-place. 
 
XVI.] 
 
 DUTCH PETE, 
 
 ail 
 
 Fortunately I have tinned soup, quinino, and other 
 things with me, so that I am able to look after the 
 invalids. 
 
 Nature is very beautiful and perfect in her dispositions ; 
 in most places in these mountains grows the " mahonia " 
 or Oregon grape ; also the white sage. The root and 
 berries of the mahonia infused as a strong tea, or the 
 leaves of the sage treated in the same way, as the 
 settlers say, " breaks the fever," or in other words, is an 
 excellent remedy. With considerable trouble, we had 
 collected some of the roots of the mahonia, and were pre- 
 paring it in the above manner, but the untiring '* Dutch 
 Pete," who desired to put everything in order, threw it 
 away when we left the room for a few minutes ! 
 
 Life is a struggle, a survival of the fittest ; but this 
 is surely a sorry place for invalids, but in spite of many 
 drawbacks, the patients are improving; moving home- 
 wards possibly cheers them. 
 
 Ings. 
 
 Ere long I return to my little wheel-house on the 
 steamer, and after wrapping myself up in the warmest 
 possible way, soon fall asleep. Sounds of wood-chopping 
 and of engine fires being lighted are the first I hear in the 
 morning ; then the more welcome call to breakfast ; after 
 that we soon start again. 
 
 I left in the care of " Dutch Pete " two extra plaids, 
 which he promised to deliver to Algernon, the weather 
 being so extremely cold that I feared he had not taken 
 sufficiently warm things with him; these never reached 
 
 p 2 
 
212 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap 
 
 hira. All these hunting expeditions are a great anxiety 
 to me. 
 
 On the Cars. — Our J-eamboat Marion reached the wharf 
 half-a-mile from Golden, at three o'clock. At six o'clock, 
 N and I stepped into the cars, and were again sur- 
 rounded by comforts of all kinds. 
 
 Snow aU round us, and by moonlight we have occasional 
 glimpses of the wondrous scenery thT*ough which we are 
 passing. Before Banff is reached, the snow has become 
 quite deep. All looks horridly wintry, the severe cold 
 having come rather suddenly ; however, we have little to 
 complain about, this having been one of the finest autumns 
 on record in the North-West. 
 
 October 19^7i.. — Wish N good-bye; step out on the 
 
 snowy platform 3 a.m. A quick drive takes me to the 
 Banff Springs Hotel. 
 
 Nothing to do but rest and get my luggage unpacked. 
 The hot air after the freshness in the mountains is to me 
 intolerable ; I am obliged to sleep Vv*ith all my windows 
 open. 
 
 Find some Canadians whom we met at Vancouver ; one 
 of them plays most charmingly. There is a new Steinway 
 grand piano in the hotel. As I listen to Cln>pin's 
 Nocturnes and Brahm's Hungarian dances, I close my 
 eyes and think of all we have seen and done, with a 
 feeling of security and rest which is delightful, although I 
 thoroughly enjoyed the f ae life in the. mountains. 
 
 The season at BaixiT is over; all the large rooms are 
 
XVI.] 
 
 AMERICAN WHIST. 
 
 «i3 
 
 closed. Still by every train one or two travellers arrive, 
 either on their way to the coast or homeward bound. The 
 hotel, however, though half empty, is not devoid of some 
 romance. "'Tis love, 'tis love that makes the world go 
 round." A bridal pair are in the house, having been 
 married in the small English church here last Tuesday. 
 
 October 2\8t. — Nice simple service in the English 
 church; there are als^ Presbyterian and Methodist 
 services held here every Sunday. 
 
 October 2^tlo. — More snow. It is coming down in pow- 
 dery flakes to-day. Had a lovely drive in a sledge ; with 
 the bells it sounded cheerful. All carts and waggons 
 are now on runners, and the river is frozen, which gives 
 the place quite an unfamiliar look. 
 
 The horrors of being frost-bitten are not an uncommon 
 experience here, but the speedy application of snow to 
 the affected parts, or, in the case of the hands and feet, 
 plunging them into cold water and keeping them there 
 while the thawing process is going on, prevents much 
 harm being done except in very aggravated cases. 
 
 Played a rubber of whist this evening, and discovered 
 that in "American whist" honours do not coi:nt, and 
 short whist is seven, not five, as with us. 
 
?i4 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 ( r « 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Notes about Early French Settlers — Hunting in 
 
 THE Mountains. ; 
 
 I s 
 
 " What man would read and read the self-same faces, 
 And like the marbles which the windmill grinds, 
 Rub smooth for ever with the same smooth minds, 
 .' ■ ' This year retracing last year's, every year's dull traces, 
 
 When there are woods and un-man-stifled places?" — Lowell. 
 
 Banff Springs Hotel, Rocky Mountains. — Some of the 
 early Canadian histories are very interesting ; among 
 others, ' The Old Eegime in Canada,' by Parkman, and 
 extracts from old French letters given in tlii.^ work are 
 specially quaint and cmious. 
 
 Early in the 17th century we find the following entries 
 relating to the nohlcsse who had emigrated to Canada 
 during the reign of Louis XIV. : — 
 
 " The gentilhommc had no vocation for emigrating. He 
 *' liked the army ; ho liked the Court. If he could not be 
 " of it, it was something to live in its shadow. The life of 
 " a backwoods settler had no charm for him ; he was not 
 " used to labour, and he could not trade without being 
 " liable to forfeit his nobility." 
 
 "When Talon came to Canada, there were but four 
 
XVII.] 
 
 EARLY FRENCH SETTLERS, 
 
 215 
 
 " noble families in the Colony. Where, then, could be 
 " found the material for a Canadian noblesse ? First, in 
 " the regiment Carignan Salieres, sent from France by 
 " command of Louis XIV., for the assistance of his Cana- 
 '* dian colony. Two hundred of them landed at Quebec, 
 ** 1665. Most of the officers of the expedition were gentils- 
 '* hommes. Secondly, in the issue of patents of nobility. 
 " Stracy asked for four such patents ; Talon for five more. 
 " Money smoothed the path to advancement.* 
 - "Jacques le Ber, the merchant who had long kept a 
 " shop a.. Montreal, got himself made a gentleman for 
 " 6,000 livres." f They did not, however, make much 
 progress or continue to flourish, as seen by the following 
 extracts from letters : — 
 
 " Many of our gentilshommes ojffkicrs and other owners of 
 " seignories lead what in France is called the life of a 
 " country gentleman, and spend most of thei t iiue in 
 " hunting or fishing. As their requirements in food aud 
 " clothing are greater than those of the simple habitants, 
 " and as they do not devote themselves to the improving of 
 " their land, they mix themselves up in trade, run into debt 
 " on all hands, incite their young habitants to range the 
 "*' woods, and send their own children there to trade for furs 
 "* in the Indian villages and in the depth of the forest, in 
 ■" spite of the prohibition of His Majesty. Yet with all 
 *' this they are in miserable poverty." % 
 
 I 
 
 * Talon's • Memoire sur I'Etat present du Canada,' 1667. 
 
 t Ex ' Vie de Mademoiselle le Ber,' 325. 
 
 X " Lettre de Duchesneau an'Ministre," 10 Novembre, 1679. 
 
t ':! 
 
 ; if 
 
 216 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " It is pitiful to see their children, of whom they have great 
 " numbers, passing all the summer with nothing on them 
 •* but a shirt, and their wives and daughters working in the 
 " fields." * 
 
 " "We must give them some com at once, or they will 
 " starve." t 
 
 " Above all things, monseigneur, permit me to say that 
 " the nobles of this new country are everything that is most 
 " beggarly, and that to increase the number is to increase 
 " the number of do-nothings. A new country requires 
 " hard workers, who will handle the axe or mattock." 
 
 " The sons of our councillors are no more industrious 
 " than the nobles, and their only resource is to take to the 
 " woods, trade a little with the Indians, and for the most 
 " part, fall into the disorders of which I have had the 
 " honour to inform you. I shall ucv uU possible means to 
 " induce them to engage in regular commerce ; but as our 
 " nobles and councillors are all very poor and weighed 
 " down with debt, they could not get credit for a single 
 " crown-piece." % 
 
 Louis XIV., dispenser of charity, came to the rescue. 
 He granted an alms of 100 crowns to each family, coupled 
 with a warning to the recipients of his bounty that " their 
 misery proceeds from their ambition to live as persons of 
 quality and without labour." § 
 
 • « Lettre de Champigny au Ministre," 26 Aoiit, 1687. 
 t Ibid., 6 Novembre, 1687. 
 
 X Abstract of Denonville's letters and of minister's answers, N.Y. 
 Colonial Documents, IX. 317, 318. 
 § 'Old Regime in Canada.* Parkman. 
 
xvir.] TRADE AS THE ONLY FIELD OF ACTION. 217 
 
 
 " Nobles in Canada were also permitted to trade even at 
 " retail, without derogating from their rank." * 
 
 " Time and har'^^'hips, however, seem to have made 
 " later on pioneers of these same men, who are spoken of 
 " thus contemptuously ; " and still writing of the early 
 settler, the letter continues, " and it is no matter of 
 " wonder that he threw himself into the only field of action 
 " which in time of peace was open to him. It was trade, 
 " but trade seasoned by adventure and ennobled by danger ; 
 *' defiant of edict and ordinance, outlawed, conducted in 
 " arms among forests and savages." In short, it was the 
 western fur trade. The tyro was likely to fail in it 
 at first, but time and experience formed him to the 
 work. 
 
 " On the Great Lakes, in the wastes of the North-West, 
 " on the Mississippi and the plains beyond, we find the 
 " roving gentilhomme, chief of a gang of bushrangers often 
 ** his own habitants ; sometimes proscribed by the Govern- 
 " ment, sometimes leagued in contraband traffic with its 
 " highest officials, a hardy vidette of civilization, tracing 
 " unknown streams, piercing unknown forests, trading, 
 " fighting, negotiating, and building forts. Again we find 
 " him on the shores of Acadia or Maine, surrounded by 
 " Indian retainers, a menace and a terror to the neigh- 
 " bouring English colonist. 
 
 ** Saint Custin, Du Slent La Darantaye, La Salle, La 
 " Motte-Cadillac, Iberville, Bienville, La Verendrye, are 
 " names that stand conspicuous on the pages of half-savage. 
 * '• Lettre de Meules au Ministre," 1685. 
 
■ ! 
 
 ; ,1 
 
 2i8 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " romance, that refreshes the hard and practical annals of 
 " American colonisation. It was they and such as they 
 ** who discovered the Oliio, explored the Mississippi to its 
 " mouth, discovered the Rocky Mountains, and founded 
 " Detroit, St. Louis, and New Orleans. 
 
 "In the summer of 1648 was held at the mission 
 ** station of Sillery, a temperance meeting, the first in all 
 " probability on this continent. In the eyes of the 
 " missionaries, brandy was a fiend with all crimes and 
 " miseries in its train. Tlie Jesuits of that day went with 
 " a high hand into the work of reform, and it fared ill 
 " with any found selling brandy to the. Indians." * 
 
 Now after more than two hundred years have passed, 
 under a different government, and a new regime, with the 
 country civilized, it is somewhat curious to find the same 
 law still existing over the North-West Territory. Any 
 one at the present time found selling spirits to Indians is 
 liable to be heavily fined, and there exists a prohibition 
 against any spirituous liquors being brought into the 
 country without a permit. In spite of these restrictions 
 however, I am sorry to say a great deal of drinking goes 
 on, and now most of the large hotels have got a permit, 
 which makes tliis law in reality a farce. 
 
 October 2%th. — Algernon returned at 12 p.m., havmg had 
 bad sport. In his own words follow the accounts of his 
 two hunting expeditions. 
 
 "Windermere, October Uh. — We are still here, having 
 • ' Old Regime iu Canada,' Purkman. 
 
 1 
 
XVII.] 
 
 HORSE-THIEF CREEK, 
 
 919 
 
 ** waited for Margeau. Having nothing else to do, we 
 " paddled across the lake at daybreak, and spent most of 
 " the day cruising through the woods looking for deer, but 
 " saw none. Margeau arrived this evening, so we are to 
 ** start to-morrow. 
 
 I 
 
 goes 
 
 
 "October 5th. — Up at break of day; packed our kit. 
 Baptiste and Prevost arrived at 9.30, when we packed 
 two ponies and started for Horse-Thief Creek. Margeau's 
 wife, a Kootenay, and his daughter, a pretty girl and 
 capital rider, came up with us, as they wanted to gather 
 blueberries to preserve for the winter, and, like all people 
 of Indian blood, love to get into the woods. When we 
 came to the crossing at Horse-Thief Creek it was bank- 
 full, and as we did not want to wet our packs, we took 
 them off the ponies and carried them over a fallen tree 
 which lay across the creek, making the ponies half wade, 
 half swim over. Margeau's girl rode her pony, though it 
 was swimming when in the middle of the creek. If it 
 had been carried off its legs, the girl would have had a 
 bad time, for the creek was flooded with glacier rater. 
 
 " We camped as soon as everything had crossed, and 
 hobbled the ponies ; the feed was poor, tlie fire having 
 run through the woods here. We drove them a little 
 way from the creek, and, having put a bell on my pony 
 and Margeau's, we left them to shift for themselves. 
 
 ' " October 6^^.— Broke up camp at daybreak. Had some 
 :*' trouble in finding the ponies. After going up the trail 
 
230 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 ' 
 
 about six miles, we camped, and after watering the ponies 
 and getting some dinner, went to look for bear. We saw 
 some fresh tracks, but that was all. This place is where 
 the sheriff caught the horse-thieves after whom the 
 creek is named. They had camped here, and only one of 
 them was in camp when the sherifif came on him ; the 
 other two were hunting, and were of course * held up ' as 
 they were returning, suspecting nothing. Judging from 
 the lot of beaver dams here, the number of camps and 
 the amount of work they have done, there must be about 
 thirty or forty beaver. I regretted much I had not 
 brought up some traps, and should certainly have done 
 so if I had known the country better. 
 " Baptiste's wife and daughter were delighted with the 
 profusion of berries growing about here, and by evening 
 had filled everything which they had with them in the 
 way of bags ; so they returned home next morning. 
 
 " October 1th. — ^We came up about six miles ; some of 
 " the trail pretty rough. Camped on a flat by the creek, 
 " and hunted for bear with no better success, although 
 " there were plenty of fresh tracks. 
 
 " Bears are most shy, and have wonderful noses, though 
 " their sight is poor, and in the mountains, where the wind 
 " hardly ever blows fair in one direction for half an hour, 
 " they have every chance in their favour of scenting th^ 
 " hunter before they are themselves seen. 
 
 " October 8th. — Started at break of day. The trail ended 
 " here, so we had to take through the woods as best w6 
 
XVII.] 
 
 A BAD SHOT, 
 
 221 
 
 u 
 if 
 (( 
 « 
 « 
 « 
 (c 
 (( 
 (( 
 
 (( 
 (( 
 (( 
 ({ 
 (( 
 
 tt 
 
 « 
 « 
 (( 
 C( 
 
 <( 
 « 
 
 « 
 
 could. We had some tremendous climbing through heavy 
 timber up one of the steepest mountains I could well 
 imagine. The ponies were all good at the work and in 
 hard condition, so that, with the exception of having to 
 re-pack them once or twice when they shifted their loads 
 by brushing against trees, we got on very well, and 
 about 3 o'clock reached our intended camping-ground, 
 just on the edge of the timber-line, a few hundred feet 
 from the top of the range. 
 
 " Some Kootenays had camped here in the summer. 
 There was first-rate water, wood, and plenty of excellent 
 grass, so we and the ponies were all suited ; the latter 
 were soon hobbled and feeding up to their knees in grass. 
 Our tents were pitched, and the rest of the evening spent 
 in making the camp comfortable, and mending moccasins. 
 
 " October 9th. — We all started from camp together, spying 
 the ground carefully when we reached the * divide,* but 
 saw nothing for a long time. At last Baptiste, who 
 was ahead a few yards, came suddenly upon a goat. I 
 just had a snap-shot as he bolted round some rocks, and 
 missed him clean — bad luck ! It was a great mistake and 
 very much against my wish that we all kept together. 
 Two people are quite enough, particularly where there are 
 so many loose rocks, which one careless step may set 
 rolling ; added to which, four people cannot help making 
 far too much noise to get near game on this open ground, 
 where sound carries so easily. 
 
 October 10^^. — We again started from camp together. 
 
saa IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 i1 
 
 but after we had got a little beyond the divide above the 
 
 camp, N and his man stopped. Baptiate and I went 
 
 on over another ridge, then down into a deep valley, where 
 we found fresh tracks, which we followed nearly down to 
 the creek in the bottom, then up again and along thd' 
 side of the mountain, over some very queer ground for 
 climbing. At last we saw an old buck feeding, and, after 
 a long stalk — for he was suspicious, and in a position to 
 command a good view of most of the ground, and the- 
 wind as usual was very shifty — I was just getting into 
 position for a shot when he bolted, and though I fired I 
 did not get him. 
 
 " We saw three or four goats lying high up on the range 
 on the opposite side of the valley we were in, but we had 
 no blankets nor food, so had to leave them in peace, and 
 got back to camp very late, rather tired and disappointed. 
 
 We found N had prepared us an excellent supper, 
 
 and had made his first attempt at baking, which was a 
 great success. ^ 
 
 " October 11th. — Woke up to find the tent weighed down 
 " with a load of snow ; the ponies had worked their way 
 " nearly to the divide above the camp the night before, but 
 " the snow had driven them down far below us. We soon 
 " caught them and drove them up to camp, picketed them, 
 " and after breakfast loaded up the pack-ponies, and 
 " started over the range, a very rough trail, not improved 
 " by the wet snow. 
 
 "We crossed the first divide, and descended into the 
 
 .LSmfe i tiSft i'" 
 
XVII.} 
 
 A NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 923 
 
 the 
 
 " valley beyond ; the wet snow had made the going very 
 " bad, and when we left the high ground the ponies were at' 
 " times nearly up to their hocks in mud. The next divide 
 " we had to cross was barred by a small glacier ; the old 
 " snow was all gone, and notliing but * glare' ice, with fresh' 
 " loose snow, was left upon which to cross. Baptiste said' 
 " he would try with a pack-pony first ; so we chose what 
 " looked the best line, and he started, leading the pony by 
 " the lariat. They got half across the ice when the pony 
 " slipped, got frightened, lost its footing, and slid down the 
 " steep incline on its side at a great pace, Baptiste holding 
 " on by the lariat, and following in the same way. The 
 " pony spun round and round with the pace it was going^ 
 " but the pack stopped him from rolling over on his back. I 
 " thought some one would be hurt, but at last they brought 
 " up in some snow, and were none the worse. It took a 
 " great deal of persuasion to get the pony to stand up again, 
 " as it was well scared ; we ultimately got it and all the 
 " others over this place, and down some very bad rocks on 
 " the other side the divide j nothing but a goat or a good 
 " mountain pony would have got over this place ; it is won- 
 " derful how they get about with a heavy pack or still 
 " heavier man on their backs. 
 
 " About 4,30 in the afternoon, we reached the creek we 
 " meant to camp on ; excellent water, wood, and lots of 
 " grasg again, added to which it looked good goat country. 
 " "We turned the ponies loose after hobbling them, and had 
 " the tents up and dinner cooking ; the glasses were got 
 " out, and with them we at once got a sight of three or 
 
I 
 
 334 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " four goats feeding nearly on the top of the mountain 
 *' facing our camp. 
 
 " It was too late to go after them to-night, so we passed 
 " the time cutting a good supply of wood, but making as 
 " little noise as possible in doing so, as sound carries 
 ** wonderfully on this high ground. 
 
 " October \2th, — ^We started directly it was light for the 
 ** goats we had seen last night, but when we got high up, 
 *' the wind kept shifting so much that, after waiting for 
 *' some hours in hopes of its becoming settled, we decided 
 " to return, and wait for a better chance next day. The 
 " goats were still in the place W3 had seen them in the 
 ** night before. By the time we got to camp, it looked 
 " as if we were in for a heavy storiiX. 
 
 '■ 
 
 " October IZth. — We found there had been a fall of snow 
 in the night, but it stopped by daylight, and we started up 
 to where we had seen the goats ; we found by their tracks 
 
 that they had moved, owing to the rough night. N 
 
 and Baptiste started after them ; Prevost and I hunted 
 along the ridge to the south-east, but saw neither goat nor 
 tracks. The going was bad and in places dangerous, as 
 the steep hill-sides had frozen in the early part of the 
 night, and the snow prevented us seeing what we were 
 treading on. I slipped in one bad place, and know 1 
 shall feel the strain I gave my side for some time. 
 
 " October lUh. — A really heavy snow-storm began after 
 *' dark last night ; this morning it is still snowing as it only 
 
XVII.] 
 
 THE TRACKS OF A GRIZZLY. 
 
 225 
 
 ' 
 
 " can snow in these mountains ; the nir is full of driving 
 " powdery flakes, and the clouds, when one catches a sight 
 " of them, look as if there were plenty more to come. The 
 " thermometer has gone a good many degrees below zero, 
 " and as hunting is impossible, there is nothing to do 
 " but to drive the ponies up from below camp, as they 
 " seem inclined to work towards the Columbia, and then 
 " spend the day in camp. 
 
 ited 
 nor 
 
 3, as 
 the 
 
 i^ere 
 1 
 
 fter 
 
 " October IQth. — Our food was now about finished, and 
 as my companion did not like the idea of going on short 
 rations for a day or two, on the chance of getting goat, to 
 my great regret we had to start for Horse-Thief Creek. 
 The trail was very bad most of the way, and for the last 
 fav' miles led through second-growth spruce which had 
 been burnt the last year, just enough to kill it and no 
 more. Any one who has travelled through this would 
 understand that with pack-ponies, it was not all pleasure. 
 We rode across Horse-Thief Creek where the trail struck 
 it, and camped on the other side, on a nice flat with 
 plenty of goose-grass for the ponies, so we knew they 
 would not stray, and only hobbled them. It was a lovely 
 moonlight night, and we were all soon asleep. I woke 
 about midnight, and heard something splashing in the 
 creek, but thinking it was only some of the ponies 
 drinking, or crossing the water to another bank of goose- 
 grass we had come through from the other side, I slept 
 until morning. On turning out, I went down to the 
 creek to see if any ponies had crossed, and there found 
 
226 IMPEESSIONS 01^ A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 1:1 
 
 -Is 
 
 " the tidcks of a large grizzly, and which I could have easily 
 " shot in the bright moonlight, if I had known it was a bear. 
 
 " October IQth. — Started early for "Windermere. "We met 
 ** Baptiste's son before we got to Tob}/ Creek ; he was 
 " starting with Susan Margeau, the girl who searched for 
 berries, to come and find u;- and hunt the ground beyond 
 where we were camped ; but Baptiste told them to return. 
 We reached the hotel at Windermere about two o'clock, 
 and to my great delight my wife arrived shorv'y after. 
 " This trip proves the truth of my opinion that, unless 
 one knows the country oneself, and is not tied to time, 
 it is little good hunting here, I am certain that, 
 knowing the country as T do now, I could have good 
 sport even alone, if I retuirn, and choose my own time 
 and place. I have lost six weeks of the best season for 
 hunting, owing to a friend not having been able to get 
 hunters engiiged for me as he had expected; this has 
 enMvely spoiled my sport. 
 
 " October llth. — We r.^opped to-day in the steamer at 
 a wouJing-stage, and to my surprise, w^ere hailed from 
 the bank by Moulson, a miner and hunter whom I knew. 
 On hearing I had had no sport, he was very anxious I 
 should coTiie ashore, an :1 go on a hunt with him, and that 
 ray wife should also come. I thought it too rough a trip 
 for her : =0 with my blankets and a ihange in my kit- 
 bag and my stalking-glass over my shoulderj I said 
 ^ood-bye to her,, and jumped ashore with my rifle, 
 leaving her to go down to Banff to await me there. 
 
 I f 
 
 . - MiWAjttWIR!!! Wr.w li ""t-. 
 
'. [chap. 
 
 ve easily 
 IS a bear. 
 
 "We met 
 he was 
 3lied for 
 . beyond 
 ) return, 
 o'clock, 
 after, 
 t, unless 
 to time, 
 in that, 
 ,ve gjod 
 wn time 
 asoi? for 
 e to get 
 ;]iis has 
 
 imer at 
 d froia 
 knev^. 
 ious I 
 nd that 
 a trip 
 ny kit- 
 said 
 rifle, 
 
 !S!^ 
 
 ' I » 1 ■ I , WJil 1 
 
 HIT 
 
 xvil] 
 
 WHISKY HILL. 
 
 227 
 
 " Moulson had two horses and all his cooking-kit, so I 
 " left mine on the boat. We hoped to hit off my ponies 
 " on the trail, but the rascal we got to ride them down 
 " did the whole seventy miles in the half-day and night, 
 " so had passed, as we found on getting to the trail and 
 " inspecting the tracks. We sleep to-night at Macmillan's 
 " ' shack,' a few miles from where I came ashore. 
 
 " October 18^7i. — We packed one horse and I rode the 
 other, while Moulson walked. We reached Whisky Hill 
 about mid-day, and camped on the river, which ran close 
 below it. After picketing the horse we took a look round, 
 but saw no tracks. Moulson's reason for coming here was 
 that he knew it to be a great spring hunting-place for 
 sheep, and he hoped, as no Indians were now hunting 
 here, that we should get sheep high up in the range. I 
 find him an excellent hunter and first-ra^" climber. 
 The ground here is much more difficult and dangerous 
 than where I have just come from, on Horse-Thief Creek. 
 We are now in the Rockies, and the high ground we 
 are hunting over is full of precipices and canons, re- 
 quiring care aiic'. good nerves to enable one to get about. 
 I have done no big climbing for many years, Tnd was 
 r.fraid I should not be any good, but after the first few 
 hours, found I could get along as well as in the old days. 
 
 " October l^th. — We started early, breakfosting before 
 daylight, and hunted all over Whisky HiJl, a huge 
 mountain of grardte, broken up by cafions in al". directions, 
 
 Q 2 
 
,!*i 
 
 (■' i 
 
 
 ', 
 
 
 :\ 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 i 
 
 228 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 « 
 
 u 
 
 it 
 « 
 <( 
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 {( 
 
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 (( 
 
 te 
 (( 
 
 (( 
 
 ti 
 €( 
 « 
 
 and split in two longitudinally, by one of great depth. 
 The latter was a surprise to us, and when we had cruised 
 over all the ground on this side of it, we had to descend 
 and start up the other half of the mountain, so to speak, 
 wliich meant a good deal of extra climbing. When we 
 reached the rop, or rather a flat just on the edge of the 
 timber, as the real top was a bare peak of granite, it 
 looked just the ground for sheep, as there was plenty of 
 grass, water, and lots of sheltered ledges, which they like 
 to lie in, but not a sheep nor a track did we see. 
 
 " The scenery was beautiful — range after range of snowy 
 peaks in every direction, and the 'Columbia, from the 
 upper lake down to Golden, winding along the valley. 
 
 ** Below us flocks of geese and ducks were flying up and 
 down, but we noticed that the geese were leaving for the 
 south, which was a sure sign winter would be on us in a 
 few days. 
 
 " Moulson is disgusted at having brought me to a place 
 with no game in it ; so we have decided to move down to 
 Washout Creek to-morrow, as there we shall be nearer 
 to the main range. 
 
 " October 20th. — Moved camp and turned the horses 
 " loose, having belled one of them, for we knew they would 
 " work down to their old range near Macmillan's shack. 
 ** We fixed up camp near a nice creek, about half a mile 
 " back from the trail, and then took a short turn to see our 
 " best route for to-morrow ; it looks bad, as the creek we 
 " are camped on is cauoned a mile from the mouth, and the 
 
w-"«np^^ 
 
 ymmm'. 
 
 , [chap. 
 
 fc depth. 
 I cruised 
 descend 
 
 speak, 
 Jhen we 
 e of the 
 •anite, it 
 )lenty of 
 hey like 
 
 )f snowy 
 rom the 
 ^alley. 
 y up and 
 g for the 
 
 1 us in a 
 
 a place 
 Idown to 
 nearer 
 
 horses 
 
 would 
 
 shack. 
 
 a mile 
 
 I see our 
 
 reek we 
 
 md the 
 
 XVII.] 
 
 TEPES OF SHUSHWAPS. 
 
 229 
 
 mountains on either side are split lengthways by canons 
 with wall sides every mile or so, each of which we shall 
 have to go round, after hunting the ground between them, 
 
 " October 1\st — Started at daylight ; climbed up to the 
 left of the creek. Spent the whole day hunting over 
 almost impracticable ground, and found not a single track. 
 Got to camp late, and started in the dark for Macmillan's. 
 Caught the horses and got some food, and returned with 
 both ; the horses we had to picket for fear of their going 
 back, but we have brought some oat-straw for them, so 
 they held out pretty well. 
 
 " October 22nd. — It snowed, froze, and rained alternately 
 most of the night. Packed one horse, and we went * ride 
 and tie ' on the other. The weather did not improve, 
 but was if possible worse. We made twenty-two miles, 
 and camped close to the Hay ranche. The worst camp 
 we have had, but we got beef and potatoes, so we lived 
 well. If there only comes a really heavy storm, we 
 ought to get sheep now, if there are any on the range. 
 Two tepes of Shushwaps here, and the usual lot of 
 papooses and cur-dogs ; the latter are fearful thieves. 
 The Indians have been hunting further down the river, 
 and are now taking a- band of ponies packed with their 
 winter supply of flour up to where they live. We went 
 and had a talk with them, and I took the opportunity to 
 get a squaw to do some mending for me, as they sew 
 buckskin beautifully with sinew, which is the only thing 
 
w 
 
 
 230 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " which stands hard work, and I had none, as we have 
 " killed no game. 
 
 " October 23rd. — Heavy rain and snow all night ; looked 
 " like lasting all day too. It cleared about 3 p.m. — a good 
 " sign for our chances to-morrow. "We dined sumptuously 
 " on beef and boiled beans, but, for some unknown reason, 
 " the latter madcs va both feel wretchedly ill. 
 
 " October 24:t7i. — ^We turned out at 2.30 a.m., got breakfast, 
 and walked to the foot of the range over some awfully 
 swampy ground covered with alders — never very good 
 going, but in the dark and covered with fresh snow, it was 
 no holiday. We there lit a fire and waited for daylight, 
 which appeared in about an hour. We had noticed one 
 deer trail fresh in the snow, and that was all. We now 
 started up the mountain — a very hard climb at any time, 
 but, with six inches of fresh snow, it was really queer 
 work, and we both were feeling very ill. On reaching the 
 top we found our climb useless, as we were separated from 
 the good ground by a wall canon several hundred feet 
 deep, so we had to retrace our steps, and were too seedy 
 to do anything bri return to camp. 
 
 " A miner staying at the ranch had found a keg of 
 whisky cached in the potato-ground. He must have had 
 a wonderful nose for spirit to find it in such an unlikely 
 place ; having found it, he had some out, and we annexed 
 a portion, and had it hot and strong and full of pepper, 
 wliich did us both good. 
 
 - ~- • ■ j j Ji!B ig i e««i>ir'.tg*.'ag»»»~.' ♦ - 
 
 «•* •*"-i-.*f •MrlTM*. 
 
^ [chap. 
 we have 
 
 ; looked 
 — a good 
 ptuously 
 1 reason, 
 
 reakfast, 
 
 1 awfully 
 
 3ry good 
 
 w, it was 
 
 daylight, 
 
 ;iced one 
 
 We now 
 
 ny time^ 
 
 y queer 
 
 hing the 
 
 ed from 
 
 red feet 
 
 »o seedy 
 
 keg of 
 ave had 
 Lnlikely 
 nnexed 
 pepper. 
 
 XVII.] 
 
 A ROUGH TRAIL. 
 
 231 
 
 " On the way back 1 shot three grouse, which we stewed, 
 and they made us an excellent supper. 
 
 " October 2&th. — I was very ill all night, but slept in the 
 morning. Another heavy snowstorm ; stopped in camp 
 and wrote a letter for the discoverer of the whisky. 
 In the evening we packed a blanket a-piece, a kettle, an 
 axe, tea and bread, and started up the mountain. I shot 
 a grouse on the way, and we camped high up. A cold 
 night, but we found dry cedar to burn, so we had a warm 
 camp under a rock. 
 
 " Started over the mountain at daybreak ; there was now 
 a lot of snow, and we had a rough climb, but saw no 
 tracks, though it looked excellent ground for game. We 
 worked back to our fire by 2 p.m., packed our blankets, 
 and started for camp, having made up our minds that 
 there were no sheep here at this time of year. I shot a 
 grouse on the way down, and with beef, potatoes, stewed 
 fruit, and rice, we made up for our disappointment as 
 regards sport, by an excellent dinner. 
 
 " October 21th. — ^We packed the horse, and took the 
 " traU as far as a shack five miles from Golden, where we 
 " stopped for the night, as the horses were about played 
 " out, for the snow had balled all day, and the trail was 
 " terrible going. I shot two grouse, which were useful for 
 " supper. 
 
 " October 2^th. — It had snowed all night, and was at it 
 
•■) 
 
 
 ■: 
 
 
 • 1 
 
 
 
 
 ';i 
 
 
 " i 
 
 i 
 
 
 • ! 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
 ! 
 
 
 ;, 
 
 ; 
 
 I:' 
 
 '; I 
 
 232 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " as hard as ever this morning, but soon after daylight we 
 " packed our horse, and made for Golden, arriving about 
 " eleven o'clock. 
 
 " Here I settled accounts with Moulson, with whom I 
 " was quite sorry to part ; he was a charming companion, 
 " and first-rate in the mountains. He takes care of 
 " Chance and Baldie, our two ponies, till next year, when 
 " I hope to return, and at 5 . 30 I take the cars for BanfP, 
 "arriving at 11.30." 
 
 October 28^^, Banff Springs Hotel, Rocky Mountains, — 
 (I now resume my own journal where I left off at page 218). 
 Met pleasant people here, who told us much that interested 
 us about their travels in Cashmere, Mongolia, and other 
 out-of-the-way places. 
 
 While we were all talking in the drawing-room after 
 dinner, the editor of some Chicago newspaper introduced 
 himself, bowing first to me. " Mrs. St. Maur, I believe ? '' 
 I told him I was Mrs. St. Maur. He then said, "I 
 " have come to ask whether you were perfectly satisfied 
 " with the article I wrote about your fishing in the Minne- 
 " wanka Lake. Was the description of the gafl&ng of the 
 " 28-lb. trout correct ? " ' , ' 
 
 Only two days previously I had been shown the article 
 referred to for the first time. So far as I could judge, it 
 was chiefly a family history of Algernon and myself, the 
 28-lb. trout only occupying a secondary place in the 
 narrative. How he had found out anything about us 
 puzzled me. It was badly written, and when, on oUr 
 
 r 
 
[chap. 
 
 xvn.] 
 
 A YANKEE EDITOR. 
 
 233 
 
 article 
 dge, it 
 
 f, the 
 n the 
 
 t us 
 oUr 
 
 return to England, I heard it, or part of it, had been copied 
 into the Field, we were exceedingly annoyed. 
 
 Here was a dilemma. But had I not appeared satisfied, 
 something more distasteful might have been written. So 
 I an&wered briefly, and thanked him. Fortunately he 
 had to catch a train — his train for Chicago, — and that 
 was the last we saw of him. • , . 
 
 It was not the last we heard of him, for the C s re- 
 cognised him as having been one of their fellow-travellers 
 on their journey from Vancouver. At one of the places 
 where they stopped to dine, this Yankee got out with them 
 for dinner. The " menu," which was written in French, 
 
 was not legible. Mrs. C remarked to her husband that 
 
 she could not read it. The editor immediately joined in 
 their conversation from the other side of the table, saying, 
 ** I guess, in the States we do all our chewing in English ; I 
 like to know what my victuals are when I eat them." 
 When one considers that the article on our fishing had 
 been written by this untutored person, was it to be 
 wondered at that it did not quite suit my fancy ? 
 
 October 29th. — A busy day, putting all our wardrobes 
 into order. When there is an accumulation of mending 
 to be done, it is then one misses a maid. Fortunately for 
 me, there were two nice Scotch girls in the hotel, who 
 were concerned with the temporary management. One 
 of them, I believe for the sole reason that I was from the 
 "auld countree," took away a great pile of Algernon's 
 stockings, and brought them back beautifully mended. 
 
V. 
 
 234 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 October ZQth. — ^We walked through the woods, very 
 rough going, as the only trail is where the trees have been 
 cut about one foot from the ground ; these stumps catch 
 one's petticoat (though it be very short), impeding 
 progress ; and there was deep snow as well. 
 
 October ^Ist. — A glorious day ; tried another sketch of 
 these wonderful mountains with indifferent success. In 
 the afternoon drove with two people staying here to the 
 "Minnewanka Lake." Saw a cayote on the way there, 
 but he was too quick for Algernon, and before he was out 
 of the waggonette with his rifle, had disappeared into the 
 woods. 
 
 At the lake, the boatman thought there was an off- 
 chance of a wild sheep, so Algernon remained there for 
 the night in order to hunt at early dawn. "We had a 
 funny little tea-party in a warm log-house, before we 
 started for our return journey. A gentleman's house ! for 
 we saw at once our host was such, though he was at 
 some pains to conceal his identity. Ah! how fond 
 mothers at home would grieve, were they to see some of 
 their dear sons out here, getting along ^ best they can! 
 There is this difference, however; here no one is 
 ashamed of working, and the free life makes men con- 
 tent 
 
 " Here Life the undiminished man demands, 
 New faculties stretch out to meet new wants, 
 What nature asks, that nature also grants. 
 Here man is lord, not drudge, of eyes and feet and hands, 
 And to his life is knit with hourly bands." 
 
[chap. 
 
 XVII.] 
 
 A RAT HUNT. 
 
 235 
 
 A wooden hotel is being built here, and will be available 
 for sportsmen next spring ; the only tenant at present is a 
 mountain rat, who lives in the unlighted stove. Now a 
 rat I have a great antipathy to at any time, but when two 
 cats were taken into the empty room, where he was to be 
 exhibited, I was inspired with confidence. Seeing a high 
 
 wooden table in the corner of the room, Mrs. B and I 
 
 chose this as our point of observation, sitting after the 
 fashion of Turkish ladies. The mountain rat was let out 
 of his temporary home — the stove; a creature much 
 larger than an English rat, with a bushy tail, came out 
 and ran so fast, that a doubt was expressed as to where he 
 had gone. From our vantage-ground, the table, we heard an 
 unpleasant suggestion that the rat was behind us. In an 
 instant we were both out of the room, and preferred a 
 view of this interesting animal through the window. The 
 two cats did not attack, they only ran after it ! 
 
 Our drive back to the hotel through the mountains was 
 beautiful ; all descriptions would fail to tell of what we 
 saw : far below us in the valley the little mountain 
 stream, half frozen in the arms of its strange nurse winter, 
 shining all along the silvery way it had mapped out for 
 itself. Among the grey rocks, half covered with snow, 
 were many frozen waterfalls, seemingly arrested in their 
 course, and transfixed into thousands of icicles, while 
 towering mountain ranges with snowy peaks seemed to 
 surround us on all sides. 
 
236 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERF007, [chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 The Prairie — ^Winnipeg — Moose-Hunting — Manitoba. 
 
 ** The wild free woods make no man halt or blind, 
 Cities rob men of eyes and hands and feet." — Lowell. 
 
 Banff Sp'ings Hotel, Bochy Mountains, November 2nd. — 
 The guardian of the National Park told me the following 
 anecdote of the Stony Indians. When he first arrived 
 here everything was in a state of disorder, not a house in 
 the place, and his party were in tents and not too well 
 stocked with provisions. Under these circumstances it 
 was deemed advisable not to encourage the Indians, who 
 from time to time came round begging for food, but to 
 refuse to give them anything. However, late one after- 
 noon an Indian arrived with his squaw and papoose and a 
 little boy; they had evidently come a long way, and 
 when food was refused the small child began to cry, 
 and the Indian gave him his pipe, which is supposed to 
 allay the pangs of hunger. On seeing that they were 
 really in need, Mr. Stewart ordered them a dish of food ; 
 before touching it they sat down, and, closing their eyes, 
 asked their grace. The sight of starving people not 
 
 i ii i iin p Mi i iiiJiii i ww 'i'«' *, w .|,i 'ww!' 
 
 t4«l>«U|» •»■-•-»«• 
 
XVIII.] INDIAN CHARACTERISTICS, 
 
 237 
 
 I cry, 
 to 
 
 T'ere 
 )od; 
 
 lyes, 
 not 
 
 forgetful to thank their Father above for His mercies 
 could not fail to impress any one who witnessed the scene. 
 What bright ami simple faith was theirs ! Is it not true 
 
 " That in even savage bosoms 
 There are longings, yearning, strivings, 
 For tlie good they comprehend not. 
 That the feeble hands, and helplebs, 
 Groping blindly in the darknesH 
 Touch God's right hand in that darkness ? " 
 
 1 was told of a Blackfoot Indian who the other day got 
 into the cars at one of the prairie stations. After a time 
 he signed to some man to ask if he could get anything to 
 eat; the man thus questioned gave him a dinner in the 
 dining-car. The Indian was much pleased, and maintained 
 a most dignified demeanour throughout, but looked round 
 to see how he should use his knife and fork, which 
 he then managed just as well as the other people who 
 were dining round him. An Indian considers it undigni- 
 fied ever to seem surprised, and is seldom in a hurry. 
 
 When the railway was being built, the things which 
 pleased the Indians most were the Clydesdale horses, 
 as they had never seen anything larger than their 
 own bronchos; but here were horses seventeen hands 
 high! They sat looking at them with the greatest 
 astonishment, and a Kootenay, who was mounted on 
 one, returned to his tribe with such wonderful stories of 
 the size and breadth of the great English horses that they 
 laughed at him, thinking he spoke nonsense. 
 
 Royal Hotel, Winnipeg, November 8th. — We left Banff 
 
r 
 
 1 
 
 238 IMPHESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 some (lays ajifo for Mitford, where we arrived at 3 in the 
 morning. It was not very pleasant turning out of the 
 warm cars at that hour, and finding oneself on the snow- 
 covered prairie, with a cutting wind and hard frost. 
 
 Fortunately E. W knew we were coming, and we 
 
 found him waiting for us with a lantern, our only light 
 until we got to the new hotel, which has been built and 
 furnished since we were here last. We were glad to get 
 to bed, though I was so thoroughly chilled that I could 
 not get warm all the rest of the night. 
 
 Next morning after breakfast we took a twelve-mile 
 walk, first to the coal-mine, and afterwards to Cochrane 
 and back, leaving for Calgary at the same dismal hour, 
 3 A.M., at which we had arrived. We spent half the night 
 and the next day there, as Algernon had some business to 
 attend to, and then left at 3.18 A.M. 
 
 Three very cold and broken nights had quite tired me 
 out, and I found two days in the cars to Winnipeg 
 comparatively restful. 
 
 The prairie in June and the prairie in November are 
 woefully unlike. In June all was green and bright ; the 
 glorious summer, with all its hope and joy, had plenty in 
 store for our pleasure. Now it looked bare, and gloomy, 
 and hopeless; the prairie towns seemed like belated 
 travellers, camping until they found better things, the 
 thin frame houses in straight stiff rows appearing ill fitted 
 to keep out the piercing cold. 
 
 Of game on the prairie one sees little or none from the 
 cars; the shrill whistle of the locomotive over the wide 
 
XVIII.] 
 
 HOUSE OF LEGISLATURE. 
 
 239 
 
 expanse and in the once silent mountain valleys has 
 sounded the death-knell of the splendid bi<f <,'ame of 
 North America. 
 
 We reached Winnipeg at 6 p.m., and were not sorry to 
 find ourselves there and to have a good rest. 
 
 November Qth. — We went to see the opening of the 
 House of Legislature for the province of Manitoba this 
 afternoon, and were pointed out some of the principal 
 men. We heard the leader of the Government, Mr. 
 Greenaway, make his opening speech — a defence of 
 himself and other members of the Government, who had 
 been accui.ad of bribery in one of the Winnipeg papers. 
 
 The most remarkable person we saw was Mons. Narquet, 
 a half-breed, a most able man, who for fifteen years had 
 been premier, but this year, on his Government going out, 
 was leader of the Opposition.* He was by far the most 
 eloquent rmember of the House, and very proud of his 
 Indian descent. In a former session he was jeered at for 
 this by a Scotchman, who should have known better. 
 Narquet's reply, however, was so dignified that it silenced 
 any further remarks, and left the member who had 
 attacked him somewhat humiliated ; it was to this effect, 
 " that he was proud of the Scotch blood in his veins, but 
 still prouder of his Indian descent, knowing that an 
 attack of the description to which he had been subjected 
 would never have been made by an Indian." 
 
 There is a most excellent library and museum attached 
 • Mons. Narqnet died this year. 
 
M 
 
 940 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 to the House of Legislature, and any one in the Province 
 of Manitoba having an order from a member can make 
 use of them. 
 
 While in Winnipeg we were shown a charming private 
 collection of Indian curios — beautiful bead-work, som3 of 
 the patterns looking quite Oriental. The broad ribbons of 
 bead-work have the patterns the same on both sides, the 
 combination of colours being hannonious and well chosen. 
 The work done by the half-breeds is inferior in every way, 
 the work being coarser and the colours harsher in tone. 
 From whence have these isolated Indiaji tribes got their 
 Oriental patterns ? 
 
 We paid an interesting visit to the Hudson's Bay 
 Company's stores, which stand almost on the site of the 
 Old Tort Garry, of which only tlie old gateway now 
 remains. Tlie stores are able to supply everything one 
 can think of. All kinds of provisions, furs, ironmongery, 
 and machinery, can be bought there, and all of good quality. 
 Winnipeg is the great commercial centre of this western 
 countxy. As I passed the millinery department with. 
 Paris fashions in hats and bonnets, I thought how different 
 must Old lort Garry have been, when the trade consisted 
 principally in outfitting the company's hunters, and 
 receiving in the spring the proceeds of their hunt, or in 
 trading goods to strange Indians and hunters in barter for 
 furs, and other native produce. 
 
 Our train left at 6 p.m., and we had to hurry our pre- 
 parationi:', and obtain another supply of ^amp-kit, in the 
 
immmsn-^mmmmmm 
 
 P^»^»^"TBI 
 
 XVIII.] 
 
 OZI> FORT GARRY. 
 
 241 
 
 ongery, 
 ualit'''. 
 
 *j 
 
 estern 
 
 with. 
 
 fferent 
 
 sisted 
 
 \ pre- 
 iii the 
 
 
 way of kettles, and provisions, as Algernon had set his 
 heart on getting a moose if possible before we went home. 
 We have heard of a place where there is a good chance, if 
 it will only snow a little. 
 
 Algernon went to the Hudson's Bay Stores, and as he 
 knew exactly what he wanted and they are used to out- 
 fitting hunters every day, he soon had idl he required 
 packed in a case, and sent to the " depot," as the station is 
 called. 
 
 On our way to the station, we stopped at the taxider- 
 mist's shop ; he is setting up a head for me, I never saw 
 such a fine collection of heads. He had two splendid 
 buffalo, the last they are ever likely to get. One, shot 
 near Swift Current a few months ago, was for sale for $100. 
 The price asked did not seem excessive when one considers 
 the value of an auk's egg ! He also had very fine 
 specimens of moose, elk, caribou, wild sheep, timber 
 wolves, goat, mule, deer, and lynx. We also saw in the 
 town many specimens of this season's furs. 
 
 Arrived at the station, with vague ideas of our destina- 
 tion, in bitterly cold weather, so that I was very glad of a 
 large rabbit robe which had kindly been lent to me, 
 
 Algernon has not even seen his hunter yet, but he was 
 taken by a man to a bootmaker's shop ; the bootmaker 
 said his friend, who was in the shop, was friend of the 
 man who would take us hunting ! This sounded rather 
 complicated. The bootmaker and his friend, who showed 
 most kind interest in our preparations., both arrived at the 
 station " on time, ' as they say here, and after our " kit " 
 
 R 
 
i 1 
 
 < 
 
 1 
 
 J 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 '1 
 
 
 (1 
 -1 
 
 
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 1 
 
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 ;1 
 
 I 
 
 242 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 was all checked to one place, on second tlioughts they 
 changed our destination. By " kit " I mean blankets, 
 provisions, tent, rifles, kettles, and the everlasting frying- 
 pan ; all our other baggage we had checked through to 
 Ottawa, to await our arrival there. 
 
 It is very pleasant to see how people out here, who 
 know little or nothing about us, put themselves to the 
 greatest trouble and inconvenience to help us if they can. 
 
 We found ourselves before morning on the platform of 
 a little wayside station, en route for the happy hunting- 
 grounds. My heart certainly failed me at Winnipeg — it 
 seemed almost a wildgoose chase, but my failing spirits 
 revived here, when we found ourselves at a charming little 
 clean wooden hotel, and heard one man after another say 
 that there was a good chance for moose. 
 
 Here, as at Winnipeg, the men all tried to dissuade me 
 from going with Algernon, saying it was too rough ; but 
 having experienced the horrors 01 being left behind so 
 often, I determmed at all risks to keep with him. 
 
 So many men we have seen this year have had little or 
 no sport ; this is very disappointing, but if one were 
 always successful, there would not be the same excitement. 
 
 Hunting moose requires the greatest skill ; they possess 
 the keenest powers of smell and hearing, and if they get 
 the slightest scent of the hunter, or if he snaps even a 
 twig within their hearing, they are off, and sometimes do 
 not stop for twelve hours or more. Algernon, who has 
 hunted them a great deal in New Brunswick, says it is a 
 
 
 mam* 
 
[chap. 
 
 XVIII.] 
 
 MOOSE-HUNTING. 
 
 243 
 
 possess 
 ley get 
 I even a 
 lies do 
 10 has 
 it is a 
 
 curious fact that they seem to distinguish at once between 
 the snapping of a bough caused by a storm in the woods, 
 and that caused by persons striking one or treading on it. 
 Their food consists of willows, dogwood, and, if they 
 cannot get these, young birch ; the dogwood they prefer. 
 They also browse on the young wood of other hardwood 
 trees, but the two mentioned are their staple food ; they 
 therefore live principally in swampy ground, and in 
 summer prefer the neighbourhood of a lake or river, in 
 which they will often stand for hours wit?: nothing out of 
 the water but their heads, so as to avoid the bites of the 
 mosquitoes and moose-fly. 
 
 T]iere are three ways of hunting moose : calling, still- 
 hunting or creeping, and running them down on snow- 
 shoes. 
 
 Calling begins the first full moon in September ; few 
 white men and for that matter few Indians are good 
 callers. The call is given through a birch-bark horn ; the 
 hunter selects, if possible, a small lake with open meadow 
 round it, or a wide grassy creek side, in the neighbourhood 
 of which he knows there are moose ; he gets to this place 
 just before sundown, and after selecting a position so that 
 as much of the open ground as possible shall be out of 
 shadow of the surrounding trees when the moon rises, and 
 also commanded by the rifle, which is generally in the 
 liands of a companion, waits till the sun is down, and then 
 usually climbs a convenient tree, so that the sound may 
 carry further. He now gives the call, a most wild com- 
 plaining kind of cry, which can be heard two or three 
 
 R 2 
 
 W 
 
 •\ 
 
 i 
 
 , m 
 
 I 
 
< 1 
 
 ^< 
 
 |7 
 
 • 
 
 244 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 miles in the still evening ; perhaps he raay get no answer, 
 but if there are moose in the neighbourhood, as a rule an 
 answer will be heard in half an hour or so, if the call has 
 been given correctly. Sometimes after the answer another 
 call has to be given, but generally this does more harm 
 tlian good. The caller now descends, and if alone pre- 
 pares for a shot, if with a friend, joins him and keeps 
 watch. The most perfect silence must be maintained, and 
 on no account must the hunter move, as a twig cracking 
 when the moose comes is enough to cause him to glide 
 silently away, which he will do in the thickest underwood 
 without making a sound. Often one hears the moose 
 coming for a mile, sn^ ishing the dead branches, and 
 breaking down everything in his way, making a novice 
 think that twenty moose are coming instead of one. When, 
 however, he arrives within about 200 yards, he generally 
 stops and becomes suspicious, and, if possible, tries to get to 
 leeward of the spot from which the call proceeded ; if he 
 succeeds in this, he is of course gone directly ; if not, the 
 caller gives a low call M'liich is most difficult, as half a 
 note out is enough to undeceive the moose : but if all goes 
 well, the bull will now walk and often trot right out into 
 the open, straight to where the hunter is concealed, when, if 
 the light is not too bad, a bullet drops him dead at fifty 
 yards. 
 
 Still-hunting, or creeping, is really the most sportsman- 
 like way of killing moose, and likewise the most difficult, 
 and consists of stalking him in his feeding-ground, which is 
 generally of a swampy nature, thickly covered with willows 
 
 V i 
 
 .MraHHHI»3K< 
 
 Mwya 
 
r 
 
 mr^^rtm 
 
 ■vmi 
 
 ; [chap. 
 
 ) answer, 
 a rule an 
 I call has 
 ' another 
 3re harm 
 one pre- 
 id keeps 
 ned, and 
 cracking 
 to glide 
 derwood 
 3 moose 
 les, and 
 I novice 
 
 When, 
 [enerally 
 ;o get to 
 
 ; if he 
 not, the 
 
 half a 
 
 |all goes 
 
 )\\t into 
 
 .^hen, if 
 
 It fifty 
 
 Itsnian- 
 ffficult, 
 Ihich is 
 dllows 
 
 XVIII.] 
 
 MOJ^£ ABOUT MOOSE. 
 
 245 
 
 and other growth. It is almost hopeless to attempt this, 
 except in moccasins, and then a " tenderfoot," which is what 
 they call one new to the country out here, will generally 
 find he has given the moose his wind, as moosj almost 
 invariably before settling to feed or rest, which they 
 generally do standing up, take care to get to leeward of 
 their own trail, so that a hunte.' not up to this always 
 gives them his wind ; whilst any one used to the sport 
 keeps working well to leeward of the trail, and so catches 
 the moose unawares. If once alarmed moose will, 
 generally travel from twelve to twenty-four hours without 
 a halt, and at their usual trot soon put thirty or forty 
 miles between themselves and their enemies. 
 
 Chasing on snow-shoes when the snow is over 2^ or 3 
 feet deep is of course no sport, but simply murder, and 
 should be stopped by law, but with 1^ feet of good snow 
 the hunter and the moose are about equally matched ; it 
 is then a question of great patience, endurance, and 
 perseverance to kill a moose in this way. 
 
 Algernon says, " We used if possible to find out where a 
 " moose-yard was, and try and start the moose just at 
 " dayoreak ; if there were three or four, we would pick the 
 " biggest by the tracks, and start after him at a steady trot. 
 '' The moose always chooses the roughest ground ; it makes 
 " no difference to him, and bothers the hunter a good deal. 
 " If the hunter is in good condition, the moose can 
 " generally be run to a stand-.still by suudowu. 
 
 " It is best on getting up to the moose to sit down and 
 " get one's wind before attempting to shoot him, as after a 
 
246 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " hard day like this one otherwise makes a very bad shot. 
 " A good feed of moose liver broiled on the fire while yon 
 " skin him soon puts you right for the tramp home to camp 
 " by moonlight, with some of the meat packed on your back 
 "or in the hide, which is used as a temporary toboggan ; 
 " the rest you probably fetch next day." 
 
 h' 
 
 ; ii 
 
^ 
 
 T. [CHAP. 
 
 r bad shot, 
 while you 
 le to camp 
 your back 
 toboggan ; 
 
 XIX.] 
 
 ( 247 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Life in a Lumber-Camp. » 
 
 " The roaring camp fire with rude humour painted 
 The ruddy tiuts of health."— ioive«. 
 
 The Woods, Manitoba, JVovemher.—A sledge drawn by 
 two horses arrived, and on it were soon firmly fastened 
 our provisions, blankets, and other things. 
 
 The trail was very bad, and part of the way lay through 
 burnt woods, but some of the swamps we had to pass over 
 were fortunately frozen hard. One of the men going on 
 with us told us that the day before, whan coming out of 
 the woods, he had seen a fine moose, but had not his rifle 
 with him. 
 
 A few miles from the camp we had to cross a river in a 
 tub of a boat, and after making the best of our way 
 through more " muskegs " and over rough ground, just as 
 it was getting dark we came in sight of tlie lumber-camp. 
 As none of my sex—except the doctor, who happens to be 
 a woman— had ever been up to a lumber-camp in this 
 part of the country, my arrival caused much surprise. 
 One of the men who were standing about the door of the 
 
 ;,i 
 
Ml 
 
 
 
 i : 
 ■ . , 
 
 248 IMFHESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 camp when we appeared ran in, saying, " By , here's 
 
 " a woman ! " 
 
 I must confess \\hen I reached the inside I wished 
 myself back at Winnipeg. A large fire of piled logs 
 burnt on a raised hearth in the centre of the camp, the 
 smoke escaping by a hole in the roof. When we entered 
 the only light was from this huge fire, which threw a 
 ruddy glow on the rows of weather-beaten faces which 
 surrounded it. The men seemed of many nationalities — 
 Germans, Norwegians, Finlanders, Americans, Canadians, 
 and Scotchmen, and their fine physique testified to the 
 health of the life they were leading. 
 
 Great disappointment was expressed that no oue had 
 brought a newspaper. The Americans were interested in 
 the elections now going on in the States, and even 
 here party-feeling seemed to run high. It is difficult to 
 describe the pleasure which books and papers give to 
 these men, as there are always tv/o or three hours in 
 which they have nothing to do before bed-time. For this 
 reason the few books in a camp are read and re-read many 
 times. 
 
 One of the men told me that he had worked for a time 
 on Lord Lansdowne's ranch, and there the men were given 
 a good supply of books. He said once he had as many 
 as eighty of his ow^n, but they got lost, " some of the boys " 
 borrowing them and forgetting to return them. 
 
 The camp itself is a low log building, oblong in shajie, 
 with rough bunks in two tiers running round three sitlus 
 of it; and on the fourth side is the large cooking-stove 
 
 111 
 
pram 
 
 t.^jm 
 
 XIX.] 
 
 INTERIOR OF OUR TENT. 
 
 249 
 
 time 
 given 
 many 
 
 and the cook's shelves and table, holding plates, dishes, 
 cooking utensils, and food. Suspended on poles run over 
 the cross-beams in the roof were the men's wet gloves, 
 and socks, drying, and each man kept in his bunk or 
 under it, his box or bag, containing his extra clothes and 
 his few other possessions. There are two doors, one at 
 the back, and the other in front of the house. 
 
 After resting awhile, we heard the sledge with our " kit " 
 arriving, and went out to get our things off. Then 
 Algernon and the foreman of the camp, who was going to 
 hunt with him, pitched our tent about 200 yards from the 
 lumber camp, on the top of a little hill, some of the other 
 men good-naturedly giving assistance, and cutting up a 
 supply of firewood for us. The foreman lent us an old 
 tent, which we put over our own, thus doubling the 
 thickness of the canvas ; he also lent us a sheet-iron stove, 
 which we put at the end of the tent nearest to the door, 
 and which, when lighted, made the inside very warm in a 
 few minutes. An even temperature in a tent is impossible 
 to maintain; it is either very hot or very cold. Some 
 rough hay from the stables was put under our blankets, 
 and as we had plenty of the latter and rabbit-robes, we 
 felt we should sleep well. The stove soon burnt brightly ; 
 we had our kettle boiling and supper cooking in half an 
 hour. We hung up our lamp by a string from the ridge 
 pole, so had a pleasant light in our little tent ; then I was 
 glad to stretch myself out, weary as I then was, on the 
 blankets and rugg, which made a capital sofa yro tent,, for 
 we had had a long day, and we were both tired. 
 
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 85© IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 Novcmhcr \Wi. — ^.t 5.30 in the morning Algernon 
 started with his hunter after moose : to him, therefore, fell 
 the task of preparing breakfiist. 
 
 After they were gone I put on a long pair of dogskin 
 gloves, and tlien began my duties. The first thing was to 
 arrange the inside of the tent, to fold up the blankets, 
 and place everything in its own place ; if this be not 
 done, then all the comfort of tent-life is at an end, 
 because nothing can be found when wanted. 
 
 Luncheon I was supposed to get for myself, but bread 
 and marmalade are enough, and I drink water rather than 
 have the trouble of boiling the kettle. "With a hungry 
 hunter to be fed at night it is a very different matter, and 
 I always prepare a very good supper before Algernon's 
 return. The cook at the camp with whom I have made 
 friends, makes excellent bread and cakes for us daily, 
 thus saving me all the trouble of baking ; and any of the 
 other men who are about the camp are most anxious to do 
 anything to help me, and they seem very much pleased if 
 I talk to them about their homes and people. 
 
 I took one of the men with me, and went off to shoot 
 
 some rabbits with my rifle. I got four. One of these I 
 
 exchanged at the lumber-camp for a partridge, and the cook 
 
 was good enough to prepare the other three for the pot. 
 
 I tlien set to work, and this was our menu at supper. 
 
 Rabbit Broth. 
 Grilled Partridge, 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Stewed Apricots. 
 Rice Pudding. 
 
[chap. 
 
 XIX.] 
 
 CAMP-BIRDS, 
 
 251 
 
 (We drank nothing but tea while in camp.) 
 
 The hunters returned — no moose! The weather they 
 say is too fine; there has been just a sprinkling of 
 snow but not enough to prevent them from making too 
 much noise in travelling through the woods. To-day 
 tliey came on the fresh tracks of a moose that they had 
 disturbed. 
 
 Just as we were beginning supper, a hand was thrust 
 into the tent door with a large plate full of buns — a most 
 welcome addition. 
 
 I saw the first snow-birds to-day ; the moose-birds, 
 of which there seem many round the camp, are wonder- 
 fully tame ; the latter seem rather like jackdaws in their 
 ways, the same sort of independent birds; indeed when 
 the weather is cold and food scarce they will eat out of 
 one's hand. They are called by the men Whisky- Jacks, 
 and bear a charmed life for the most part, as they are 
 thought lucky about a camp ; they are pretty birds about 
 the size of a jay and of a bluish-grey colour. 
 
 The rabbits here do not burrow, but hide under the 
 brush and in hollow logs ; they resemble the blue hare, 
 and like him turn snow-white in winter. Poor little 
 fellows! so much of the brush was burnt by last year's 
 fire that they find it rather hard to hide themselves 
 until there is a fall of snow. The Sauteaux Indians 
 make their skins into beautiful robes, which are so warm 
 that when roUe I in one of them no cold can penetrate. 
 It takes about 50^ skins to make a good robe. The skins 
 are plaited into ropes with the hair outwards on botli 
 
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 sides, and then these ropes are fastened together until the 
 robe is the right size : one can put one's fingers through it 
 anywhere. 
 
 The little squirrels and chipmunks scold me as I pass 
 along under the bare trees and wander about for hours at 
 a time with them as my only companions. 
 
 Last night I heard one little squirrel very busy making 
 a raid on our provisions ; I did not grudge him his share 
 so long as he did not invite his uncles, his cousins, and his 
 aunts to assist him, for I fear then the store-house would 
 not have withstood the strain. 
 
 The man who owns all this lumbering business here is 
 married to a daughter of Whitehead the engineer, who 
 helped to drive the first locomotive in England with 
 George Stephenson. Whitehead still lives, a hale old 
 man of eighty-six years, and sometimes comes to pay his 
 daughter a visit. He lives in the States, and from 
 his association with Stephenson was looked upon as 
 such a celebrity, and so many came to see him in con- 
 sequence, that he had to build a high fence round his 
 house to shut himself off from the too curious public. 
 
 This morning Algernon and liis hunter wished to start 
 very early because they knew exactly where the moose 
 were ; so Algernon woke me at 5.30 a.m. 
 
 One sleeps here with one's head well under the blankets 
 and furs, because of the intense cold. My first thought. 
 What a cold morning! and so it was. All water frozen 
 solid in the tent, but with the aid of the stove, which we 
 
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 XIX.] 
 
 A LITTLE BROWN SQUIRREL. 
 
 253 
 
 soon have blazing, we get up some degree of heat, and 
 after breakfast felt quite warm. 
 
 A glorious morning, but snow is required for hunting, 
 and of course the snow has not come. 
 
 There are moose-tracks all round, but it is impossible to 
 get near them without making a noise, more especially as 
 we are in the midst of burnt woods; for this reason 
 
 Algernon and W returned at 12 o'clock, as they were 
 
 anxious not to frighten these moose off the ground. 
 
 We arranged the tent, and I obtained a supply of water 
 for our day's requirements at the creek. The stream is all 
 frozen over, but by dipping one's can through a hole in 
 the ice one can get some out, the danger being (from the 
 slippery state of the ground) the probability of following 
 the can into the hole. It is somewhat of a novel experi- 
 ence this winter camp-life to me. The squirrels, ermine, 
 chipmunks, snowbirds, woodpeckers, and moosebirds all 
 eye me curiously as an intruder into their dominions, and 
 so I doubtless am. How tame they are ! they hop round 
 the camp-door or the tent-door ; it amuses me to watch 
 them. One little brown squirrel with a straight bnish of 
 a tail, not like the feathery tails of our English squirrels, 
 is provisioning his camp for the winter with a cold 
 potato, which seems rather a big load ; he moves off with 
 considerable difficulty, having fastened the potato into 
 his two upper teeth, and by holding his head very far back 
 he just manages it. Wise squirrel ! in a few weeks the 
 lumber-camp moves ten miles further into the bush, as by 
 that time the men will have finished cutting the logs 
 
 
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 here, and the chances of a further harvest for him will 
 have gone. 
 
 The men call the ermine white weasels ; their little coats 
 are familiar to me, I have seen them frequently on muffs 
 and used as the lining of cloaks. These tiny creatures 
 will often go into the camps and eat out of the men's 
 hands, even take crumbs out of their pockets, and these 
 lonely lumbermen seem to love animals and will seldom 
 do them any harm. 
 
 I am greatly struck with the happy contentment of 
 the men ; the majority appear to wish for nothing more 
 than their circumstances allow, and rarely do they change 
 their employment. 
 
 It is quite a^ pleasure to see an expert lumberman wield 
 his axe ; he does make the chips fly, and the axe seems 
 never to rest, but to be swung round with the most 
 perfect ease as each blow falls. Not until a new hand 
 has been two winters in the woods is he considered 
 to have had sufficient practice to use it properly. 
 
 Some raw rabbit meat froze solid, so that we had to cut 
 it off the tin dish with an axe. People do not know the 
 power of frost at home; I only record these trivial 
 incidents as they have never occurred to me before. 
 
 The lumbermen have come out in their winter clothing. 
 They mostly wear capotes, a red cap the same as the bonnet 
 roiige at the time of the French Revolution, doubtless 
 brought into the country by the early French settlers, and 
 made of blue or red wool ; they pull these over the ears if 
 necessary. They also wear over their ordinary clothing 
 
XIX.] 
 
 THE FOREMAN'S CHEST. 
 
 255 
 
 long red duffel stockings, and over them, boots lined Avith 
 flannel. Their hands have to be kept constantly covered 
 with great warm buckskin mits ; these have one place for 
 all the fingers and thumb, like a baby's glove. All this 
 extra clothing costs a great deal — these mits $2 (over 8s.) 
 a pair, and with the hard work they do not last long. 
 One of the men tells me his boots and overboots cost him 
 $100 a year. 
 
 At the lumber-camp the foreman keeps two large chests 
 fill* d with blankets, mits, caps, trousers, jerseys, tobacco, 
 all the goods the men are likely to want; he even has 
 watches. All this encourages thrift among them. He 
 sometimes sells as much as $4,000 worth during a 
 winter. Many of the men anive totally unprovided with 
 the necessary clothes for this out-of-door life; these are 
 speedily supplied from the chests, and the price deducted 
 from their wages. 
 
 If snow would only come, then moose would easily be 
 obtained, as they are in the woods all round this camp, 
 but with hard frost and little or no snow, every sound, 
 even the breaking of the tiniest twig in this keen air, 
 makes a noise like a pistol-shot. We wake each morning, 
 expecting to find the ground thickly covered with snow, in 
 which case the hunters would have a good chance ; they 
 are out all and every day as it is, but have not yet had 
 one shot. 
 
 After we have finished supper in the evenings, we often 
 hear a voice outside — Algernon's hunter — asking how we 
 are getting along, if we are cold, if we have enough of 
 
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 sj6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
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 everything. Algernon invites him to come in and have a 
 talk. He is foreman of the lumber-camp, and an 
 excellent hunter as well. I ask for bear stories. 
 
 "Yes! oh yes! there are," he says, "lots of bears 
 " round here, but all are hybemating now." 
 
 " Do you never come across them during the winter ? " 
 
 "One time we were clearing a new trail for hauling 
 " logs, and under a great tree stump which they were 
 " removing the boys came upon no less than four together. 
 ** The men seemed startled for a moment ; I ran off to fetch 
 ** my gun, and shot two of them ; one escaped into the 
 *' woods, and one took up a tree, and a half-breed toma- 
 " hawked him. An old hunter who is here had his foot 
 ** clawed by a wounded bear. He had to run, and took 
 " refuge in a tree, which was too small, and his leg hung 
 ** down too near the bear : finally her attention was diverted 
 " by a dog, and she left him ; for which, as he had dropped 
 " his rifle, he was not sorry." 
 
 These men's lives are full of hardships and adventure, 
 consequently they do not seem to think much of a fuss 
 with a bear. 
 
 When Algernon was in Colorado some years ago, he 
 went to a log-house one day, where he found the owner in 
 bed. He knew the man, and asked what was the matter. 
 It appeared that he had set a trap in the alder-brush near 
 his house for a bear which had been about there for some 
 days. Going to look at it the morning before Algernon 
 paid this visit, he found a cub in the trap. He went to 
 knock it on the head, but it began to cry. The old bear 
 
XIX.] 
 
 STREAM-DRIVING, 
 
 «S7 
 
 was up in the brush close by.'and charged directly. The 
 man fired at her with one of the old small-bore Kentucky 
 rifles, and as it turned out afterwards, shot her through 
 the heart ; but she did not mind, and came on. He ran 
 for his life, but tripped over an alder root. She caught 
 him at once, biting him through one shoulder and both 
 thighs, in which she made her teeth meet, and with a hind- 
 foot took a strip of flesh off from his neck to the small of 
 his back. His son, who had luckily gone with him, then 
 killed the bear with a blow at the back of the head with 
 the heavy barrel of the rifle. The man recovered, but a 
 year after Algernon went to ask him to come bear- 
 hunting with him. He replied that " he guessed he had 
 " not lost any bears ! " 
 
 Stream-driving, as floating the logs down the river to 
 the mill or other destination is called, is the roughest work 
 the lumbermen have. The foreman told me that from the 
 time the drive starts until it arrives neither he nor any 
 of the men have dry clothes on them day or night, and 
 that for seventy-five days on last year's drive he never had 
 more than four hours* sleep. 
 
 The foreman of a drive is always supposed to go at the 
 
 head of it, which is the post of danger. As W said, 
 
 " How can I put other men's lives in danger and not risk 
 " my own ? " He then told us the following story :— 
 
 "Well, two men came from New Brunswick w'io had 
 " the reputation of being the best men on a drive in their 
 " district. 27,000 logs had jammed on our river, and I 
 " started in a canoe with them to break it. I told them I 
 
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 aS8 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " would break it with my axe, and they promised to pick 
 *' me up ; at the second blow of the axe off went the logs. 
 " I got back into the canoe, but the men scared, and jumped 
 ** out on to a rock in the rapids. I was unable to manage 
 " the canoe alone, so canoe and I went over the falls with 
 " tho logs, and she turned over. I was used to walking on 
 " logs — you see our driving boots have 112 spikes in them, 
 " which stick firm into a log when you jump on it — so I 
 " was able to jump from log to log until I reached the shore. 
 " The two men thought they had seen the last of me, but 
 '' they hadn't, and I was able to tell them afterwards they 
 " weren't the right sort, and to dismiss them. When the 
 " boss heard of it, he said he would not have me run no 
 ' such risks again, anyway not on his jams." 
 
 Two m.n cutting with a cross-saw and two men 
 skidding ^nth a team will, if timber grows fairly thick, 
 cut and pile eighty logs in a day, while four men un« 
 accustomed to the work will only \ manage half that 
 number. 
 
 A few of the men here have farms in Ontario, which 
 they have sublet, as they prefer working in the woods. 
 
 This is a wonderful country for the industrious working 
 man. For $10 he can become the possessor of 160 acres 
 of land, on condition that he builds a house, cultivates a 
 certain amount of ground annually, and lives on it for six 
 months in the year. He can select any unoccupied land, 
 and for any extra quantity he may require he pays %1 per 
 acre. A good log-house can be built for |150. Why 
 then do not more of our surplus population emigrate to 
 
 7 
 
XIX.] 
 
 is" below zero. 
 
 259 
 
 men 
 
 which 
 ds. 
 
 orking 
 
 acres 
 
 mtes a 
 
 br six 
 
 land, 
 
 52 per 
 
 Why 
 
 ate to 
 
 this country ? Many of them could find the small sum 
 necessary to bring them here and buy laud; there is 
 room for any number. But no, many who might come 
 remain at home idle, coveting what is not theirs, too lazy 
 to work, listening with willing ears to the gospel of 
 spoliation preached by those who make a living by it, and 
 who really do not care what becomes of their country or 
 of their dupes. 
 
 It is cold at nights in spite of blankets and furs, as we 
 have now 10** or 15° below zero. The heat of our bodies 
 condenses on the outside of the rabbit robes, so that they 
 are covered with a coating of ice in the morning. 
 
 Algernon's hunter is a fine example of how a working- 
 man can get along if he wilL He has taught himself to 
 read and write, and amuses me when he talks of his wife. 
 He seems to consider weight and size everything ; telling 
 me with evident pride she weighs over 200 lbs. He 
 married her when she was fifteen and he two years older ; 
 Le saw her first helping her father to clear a road to his 
 homestead, which sounds rather hard work for a young 
 woman. They have got on "just splendid," he says. Now 
 he earns at the rate of $100 a month, and has the summer 
 to himself. He owns over 400 acres near here, as well 
 as his farm in Ontario. He evidently does not think 
 with the old Scotch saying, "Good gear is put up in 
 small bundles," 
 
 "Buccaro Jimmy" came up from the camp this 
 morning with a book, thinking I might like "a bit of 
 reading," Jimmy's idea of a delightful book being " Quick 
 
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 360 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 " and Dead," by Amelia Beeves. Its principal merit 
 seemed to be that it \7as improbable and highly sensational. 
 
 I asked if he ever went to see his relations, and where 
 they lived. 
 
 "Well," said Buccaro Jimmy, "I have not seen my 
 " people for nearly nine years, and they think me dead ; 
 "anyway, it was in the newspapers I*d been killed by 
 " Indians when scouting." 
 
 " Why don't yon write, or go home and see them ? " I 
 asked. 
 
 " I did go to the office where the old man was working 
 " after I'd been away three years. My own father looked 
 " up from his writing, and asked me what I wanted ; he 
 " did not know me, so I just left, and have never been 
 " there again. I love the life on the plains, and as soon 
 " as the grass gets green again I shall go back there, but 
 " I prefer the States to Canada — it's more home-like." 
 
 Seemingly encouraged by my listening to him, he went 
 on in a little while, as if he were thinking aloud. "What 
 " more does one want with all the woods around ? But it's 
 " a hard life, I tell you, riding after the wild cattle on the 
 " plains, and loping along on a horse for days together, out 
 " in all weathers, and, as often as not, all night too. Yes, 
 " we like our rig " (meaning saddle, bridle, shaps, spurs, and 
 lariat) " to be of the best. Mine are worth $360, and are 
 " lying at Winnipeg until I want them again. One time 
 " I lost a whole rig ; my horse was drowned crossing the 
 " Snake River. It's very deep, you know, and a strong 
 " current, and while we were crossing he got carried off. I 
 
XIX.] 
 
 BUCCARO JIMMY, 
 
 a6i 
 
 " got hold of a Cottonwood and pulled myself out, but I lost 
 " all that rig, and it was worth $300, and the horse too. 
 " When the spring comes, I'm going on one of Sir John 
 " Kaye's places. I guess there will be some bronchos to 
 " break there. Often when I've been breaking them in 
 " Montana, they've bucked till the blood came out of my 
 " nose, ears, and mouth, and it gives a man a pain here," 
 putting his hand on his chest. " I like to travel. When 
 " I make $2,000 or $3,000 I go off for a trip ; you see I 
 " don't care to drink or gamble, so I spend my money 
 " travelling. I've been to the Sandwich Islands and New 
 " Mexico, and think some day I'll go to South Africa to see 
 " that. Yes, we often get killed off, but that is because 
 " we are just out of luck." 
 
 . Alas, poor Jimmy! I have since heard he both drank 
 and gambled, and was a hardish case. 
 
 Such are the men daily met with here. I am told by 
 
 W , he has known a man to change his name six times 
 
 in a year. No characters are necessary in a lumber camp ; 
 each stands on his own merits. No gambling is permitted, 
 and the men have to go to bed at 9 o'clock. If they 
 work well, they stay generally through the winter ; if they 
 are idle, they are paid off directly. They are comfortable 
 and well fed, and can earn from %\\ to $2^ per day. The 
 cost of boarding the men is about $2^ per week when 
 well managed. 
 
 This evening one of the new hands, having given 
 himself a holiday, came back with four bottles of whisky. 
 After he had been put to bed, for the reason that he 
 
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 a6a IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 could not go himself, Karl, who is W 's nephew, and 
 who was in charge of the camp, poured out the contents of 
 the bottles into the snow. In the morning the owner was 
 frantic ; but it is by these rough methods that good order 
 is maintained. 
 
 Sunday, November 18<A. — ^A calm, lovely and very frosty 
 day. There is no work to do, so the men wander listlessly 
 about. It really made me feel quite miserable that they 
 had no one to speak to them of better things. At last I 
 mustered up sufficient courage to offer to come and read to 
 them. They accepted glaaly, and at 7.30, after the 
 supper was cleared away, I went to the camp, sat on a 
 barrel near where the lamp hung, because half the camp 
 seemed dark, and read the psalms and lessons for the day, 
 and then talked to them about what I had read, and they 
 were so quiet and attentive, one could not hear the 
 slightest sound. We had several hymns, in which the 
 men joined. I read each verse to them first, because they 
 had not a Bible, prayer-book, nor hymn-book among them. 
 The intense earnestness of some of their faces showed how 
 much they felt even this little effort on their behalf. 
 
 When the big camp is started and there are 150 to 200 
 men at work, they have a weekly service. 
 
 Becklessness is their principal characteristic ; they seem 
 to think little and care less. In spite of this, however, 
 there is much that is noble and to be admired in some of 
 these lumbermen. They would share their last sixpence 
 with any friend who required it, and they nurse each 
 
XIX.] 
 
 OUR TENT ON FIRE, 
 
 963 
 
 other when ill with the tenderness and gentle care of a 
 woman. 
 
 November 19th. — Axgernon was up very early. Just as 
 I was dressing, the tent caught fire; it was caused by 
 the ridge pole being too near the stove-pipe. Of course it 
 all blazed up, and I had only just time to dash out, 
 drawing my fur cloak over mo as I wen'-. 
 
 The men, fortunately for us, were just stkiting for work. 
 The cry of " Fire " soon brought then? running, and many 
 willing hands extinguished the flames. Prrt of the tent 
 wuo burned, but we wero able to put it right with spare 
 bits of canvas. We are glad that aU oui- things were not 
 destroyed. 
 
 When I came in this evening I found a comer of the 
 tent again smouldering, but I put it out quite easily. 
 Two fires in one day are rather alarming. 
 
 The foreman told me that last year a man arrived at 
 the camp on a Sunday, and said that he had been sent by 
 the Presbytery at Winnipeg. He asked him if ho might 
 hold a service for the men, to which he willingly con- 
 sented. He then said it was customary after the service 
 to make a collection, and that the Presbytery expected 
 every man to give a dollar towards the expenses. To this 
 the foreman said no, that the service might be held, but no 
 money collected from the men. Afterwards the man tried 
 to make him alter his decision, without success. He heard 
 of him later going the round of other camps, collecting as 
 
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 264 IMPHESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 much as $17 at one. To make a long story short, it vras 
 found that he was sent by no one at Winnipeg, but was a 
 Yankee swindler from Montana, and that he had collected 
 $400 in this way during the winter. 
 
 Karl, the young fellow who took me out shooting 
 several times, I thought was a Norwegian, but he says he 
 is an American. On asking him a little about his family, 
 he told me that his mother came from Glasgow and his 
 father from the Clyde, therefore I should have said he 
 was Scotch. They, however, all like the privileges of 
 American citizens. 
 
 Once, having gone to the lumber-camp to fetch 
 something, I found the camp cook and foreman examining 
 and sorting the letters for the morrow's post, and was 
 amused at hearing the following dialogue. It must be 
 remembered that from always being a very necessary 
 person in camp, the cook not only holds an important 
 post so far as the comfort of the men is concerned, but 
 also, from being always at home, sees and knows all that 
 goes on. On this occasion he seemed to take a great 
 interest in the correspondence — not idle curiosity, but 
 rather a fatherly interest in the well-doing of the 
 camp. 
 
 ** Whose letter is this ? " asked the foreman, taking up a 
 thick and closely written envelope. 
 
 " Oh," replied the cook, " that one is Jamie's letter to 
 "his sweetheart; it took him several evenings to write 
 "it all." 
 
 Many letters were looked over with passing remarks. 
 
[chap. 
 
 3fIX.J 
 
 KARLS LETTER. 
 
 265 
 
 up a 
 
 At last one seemed to puzzle them ; it was firmly closed, 
 with no address. 
 
 " Ihat," said the cook, " must be Karl's letter, but he 
 " does not wish us to know her name ! " 
 
 They had not decided the probable destination of the 
 letter when the door was burst open and Karl himself 
 walked m, having shaken the snow from his rough 
 clothing, which was, however, made picturesque by a red 
 cap "toque," sash, and red dufifel overall stockings. 
 Standing before them 6 feet 4 without his boots, a picture 
 of health and strength, with honesty and candour written 
 on every line of his young face, — they asked him, — 
 
 " Whose letter is this ? " 
 
 " It's mine ! " replied Karl, " you can address it to my 
 "mother!"* 
 
 The Canadian lumbermen so thoroughly understand 
 their work, that in the States they are paid $10 a month 
 more than any other men. Many out here squander 
 their wages ;• happily there are exceptions. One young 
 fellow who has been in the woods two years has saved 
 over $300, bought a hundred and sixty acres of land, and 
 owns a house besides, which he has sublet for $5 a 
 month. He hopes in the spring to have out his father, 
 mother, and sisters, " from the old country " to live with 
 him. He told me he came from an estate in Forfarshire. 
 TMs gives an idea of what any steady hardworking young 
 man may do in this country, if he will. 
 
 • Poor Karl will have to get some one else to write his Jove-letters 
 now, fur alas I we hear that a gun accident has blown off his right hand 1 
 
366 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 . ii 
 
 U, 
 
 • November 21s<. — Breakfast in our tent this morning 
 at 5.30. No snow having come, and I feeling the 
 cold very considerably, Algernon has decided to leave. 
 Packed all our blankets, gave our tent — or what was left 
 
 of it, our kettles and camping things to W , and said 
 
 good-bye to all the men. Our things were soon piled 
 on the sledge that was to take us out of the woods, 
 and we started. 
 
 I am glad to have had a glimpse of hunting-life in 
 winter, also to have visited a lumber-camp. My only ideas 
 of both have been gathered from Bret Harte ; certainly his 
 descriptions are very true and ualistic, but the actual 
 reality more hard and rough than I could have believed 
 possible. Under such conditions men are living who 
 might do greater things, if the wheel of fortune had 
 arranged otherwise, — this is, of course, granting there is 
 such a wheel ! 
 
 The season for camping out with pleasure is in autumn ; 
 that time is long since past. The wintry weather and 
 intense cold made me often glad to retreat into the 
 shelter of our tent for fear of being frost-bitten, and aU 
 last night our rest was disturbed by the purring of a lynx 
 close by. Algernon crept cautiously to the entrance 
 with his rifle several times, but the night was too dark for 
 him to get a shot. The place where we crossed the 
 Winnipeg river ten days ago, was that same night 
 frozen strongly enough for a waggon and team to cross 
 the ice, and to-day our team and ourselves came over it 
 also. 
 
Xix.] 
 
 THE FOREMANS LETTER. 
 
 267 
 
 When we were leaving, after ten days spent among the 
 lumbermen, Algernon asked what he was to pay. The 
 foreman, who had nearly every day hunted with him, 
 would not take any money. They all said they had " liked 
 " so much having a visit from Mr. and Mrs. St. Maur." 
 This from those who only knew us as strangers from a far 
 off country which the majority had never seen, and those 
 who had seen were never likely to see again, touched us 
 deeply, and I realised the old truth, that some are bom 
 nature's gentlemen, and that on the other hand, how often 
 does experience teach us that "In the midst of the 
 " banquet of culture clowns delight to pasture on what 
 " wise men reject as garbage." 
 
 tumn ; 
 
 ir and 
 the 
 
 |nd all 
 lynx 
 
 Itrance 
 
 ,rk for 
 the 
 night 
 cross 
 er it 
 
 Since leaving the woods we sent the men a supply of 
 seventy books for winter reading; the following is a 
 copy of the letter acknowledging them which arrived after 
 our return to England. 
 
 To Mr. Algernon St. Maue. 
 
 Dear Sir, — The books sent by Mrs. St. Maur came 
 welcome to hand, and were happily received by all hands 
 in the camp, and the boys all wish her the happiest 
 Christmas and New Year she ever had, and they are 
 terribly well pleased with the selection of books she made ; 
 and also I received the knife and book you sent me from 
 New York, and I am sure I am not worthy of getting 
 such a gift, but I will keep them in long remem- 
 brance of you and with many thanks. The snow is no 
 
 ; 
 
a68 . IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 *;f ■ 
 
 deeper than when you left, and the weather much 
 wanner. 
 
 I have one hundred and fifteen men in camp now. 
 I wish Mrs. St Maur was here now, she would see 
 a difference in my camp and see how happy the men 
 are with the books she sent them. The cook and all the 
 men send their best respects to you both, and Karl and I 
 our best wishes to you both, and hoping you will have a 
 good Christmas, 
 
 I remain, yours respectfully, 
 
 Walter Wardropk 
 
 ( i| 
 
[chap. 
 much 
 
 XX. I 
 
 269 
 
 CHAPTEE XX. 
 HoMEWAED Bound. 
 
 "What man o'er one old thought would brood and pore, 
 Shut like a book between its covers thin, 
 For every fool to leave his dog-ears in 
 When solitude is his, and God for evermore, 
 Just for the opening of a paltry door ? " 
 
 On the cars en route for Ottawa, Novemler. — Last night 
 we were fortunate enough to secure the state room, so this 
 morning we could dress comfortably, which is not possible 
 elsewhere on the car. 
 
 From Winnipeg it is a three-days' journey to Ottawa, 
 the first part mostly through *' barrens " and burnt woods ; 
 the rivers which we passed were all frozen, and over every- 
 thing there was a wintry mantle of thin snow and ice, 
 while overhead the sky was grey and heavy ; so that we 
 were glad to turn away from the dreary landscape outside 
 and amuse ourselves by reading and talking to some of 
 our fellow-travellers. 
 
 When we entered the cars last night we were accosted 
 by a Scotchman returning from Australia, where he 
 
I. 
 
 a7o IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 had settled, and we supposed made money. He told 
 Algernon that his heart warmed to hun on seeing he 
 was an Englishman, and he pressed him to partake of a 
 large bottle of brandy which he produced from his pocket. 
 Algernon declined his company and offer, which seemed 
 to offend him, for he sat and sulked for the rest of the 
 evening. 
 
 Two old Scotch women, a mother and daughter, were 
 also travelling with us ; they told me they had just 
 succeeded to $40,000 by the death of the old woman's son. 
 They would have been much better in an emigrant car, 
 for we soon saw the old woman's only idea was to drink 
 the whole time. Here was an instance of too much 
 money being left to totally uneducated people doing them 
 more harm than good. 
 
 We felt extremely sorry for a poor lady who was very 
 ill; she was going with her husband to Montreal for 
 advice. They had spent more than twenty years of their 
 lives in the colonies, engaged in mission work ; now she 
 seemed quite broken down. 
 
 At Chapleau Algernon saw one of the factors of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, whom he had last met at Fort 
 Alexander in 1870 when on his way to Fort Garry; he 
 was glad to see him again and have a talk over old 
 times. 
 
 Bussell House, Ottawa, November 2Qth. — We were not 
 sorry to arrive here a few days ago and settle down in 
 comfortable rooms in this hotel. 
 
^^••r^ 
 
 w^m 
 
 1^^ 
 
 XX.] 
 
 LIBRARY AT OTTA WA, 
 
 871 
 
 the 
 Fort 
 ; he 
 
 old 
 
 Dined at Eideau Hall with the Governor-General and 
 Lady Stanley of Preston ; a party of twenty-six. We hear 
 from every one, although they have hut lately arrived, how 
 much they are liked in Canada. The librarian, Monsieur 
 de Celles, took me in to dinner, and invited us to come 
 and see the library the following day, which we accordingly 
 did. 
 
 Monsieur de Celles kindly took us round the library, 
 pointing out all that was particularly interesting. 
 There is a fine collection of 150,000 volumes, the most 
 valuable and interesting books in the collection being 
 those relating to the early history of Canada. Some 
 of these were written by the Jesuit fathers as early as 
 the 15th century; among them we saw works of De 
 Champlain, De Salles, a history of Philip de Commines, 
 and many others. Nearly all these books were collected 
 in Europe, mostly in London, Paris, and Leipsic, 
 
 Champlain's surveys have been proved to be most 
 correct ; in his memoirs he mentions the loss of one of 
 his surveying instruments; this has recently been dis- 
 covered at the place indicated by him, and is now in the 
 possession of Mr. "Walter Cassels, at Toronto. 
 
 During the 17th century several Frenchmen of certain 
 intellectual eminence from time to time made their home 
 in Canada. Among these may be mentioned the Jesuit 
 Charlevoix, traveller and historian ; the physician Sarrasin, 
 and the Marquis de la Galisonniere, me of the French 
 governors of Canada. 
 
 Sarrasin, a naturalist as well as a physician, has left 
 
 V 
 
 iV 
 
u 
 
 •'■ 
 
 'I 
 
 I 
 
 w^r^ 
 
 (, 
 
 I 
 
 
 '1' 
 
 ii 
 
 
 I 
 
 T 
 
 a7a IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 his name to the botanical genus Sarracenia, of which the 
 curious American species S. purpurea, the " pitcher-plant," 
 ■was described by him.* 
 
 We drove to see the Chaudifere Falls, a fine volume of 
 water, for some distance a continuation of rapids extending 
 firom shore to shore ; finally the mass of water rushes over 
 an irregular wall of rock some 30 feet high. The natural 
 beauties of the river at this place have been much 
 destroyed by saw-mills and telegraph-lines, the poles 
 being placed on rocks in the stream and the wires 
 stretching across the river. Here in 1869 three men of 
 the 60th Eifles were drowned, the small raft they were 
 fishing from breaking from its moorings and going over 
 the falls. 
 
 The situation of Ottawa is beautiful, and the Parliament 
 buildings very fine ; the view from the terrace round them 
 quite magnificent. We are enjoying our little visit, 
 the kind friends we have met here making it very 
 pleasant. 
 
 The weather is hopeless. Much as we had wished to 
 have some sleighing and tobogganing here, since I had 
 never had any, it is impossible, for there is nothing but 
 rain overhead and slush underfoot. When it does not 
 rain it is what we call in Scotland " very saft," altogether 
 very unusual weather in Canada at this time of year. 
 But we read of frightful storms in the Atlantic, with 
 blizzards at Quebec and elsewhere, so at any rate we are 
 better off where we are. 
 
 ♦ Ex Parkman's * History of Canada.* 
 
 fe^-./ 
 
XX.] 
 
 A VISIT TO THE MUSEUM, 
 
 273 
 
 ed to 
 
 had 
 
 but 
 
 not 
 
 jther 
 
 lyear. 
 
 I with 
 are 
 
 We visited the museuDi, and Professor Dawson kindly 
 showed us many things which interested us. There is a 
 fine collection of specimens of all the minerals, marbles, 
 and rocks found in the Dominion. We walked through 
 several rooms containing stuffed specimens of animals 
 and birds. I was glad to see again my friend of the woods, 
 the moose-bird. I found his real name was the great 
 northern shrike, Laniua horealis; he has many aliases, 
 being also called the Hudson's Bay bird. 
 
 Professor Dawson was sending specimens of seeds found 
 this year in the mountains to the trial farms, and he most 
 kindly gave me a small packet of the " Castilleja pallida" 
 procured on Mount Tod at an elevation of 6,000 feet. I 
 was very anxious to obtain some roots of this plant. Un- 
 fortunately the snow was so deep when we were in the 
 Eocky Mountains at Banff before we left that I could 
 not find them. It grows in luxuriant clumps of fiery 
 red, and is commonly called wild geranium from its 
 flaming red leaves, It is got in many districts in the 
 Eocky Mountains. Professor Dawson says it is thought 
 that this plant possesses some of the properties of an 
 orchid, living on the roots of other plants and trees. 
 
 Professor Dawson gave me a charming account of his 
 explorations up the Yukon river in Alaska this summer, 
 and showed me many photographs he bad taken there. 
 He states that most of the gold-mines on the Yukon are 
 on British territory. 
 
 We intend to leave Ottawa to-morrow. 
 
874 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap 
 
 Hotd Windsor, Montreal, December Ist. — Arrived last 
 night, and found a ball going on in the hotel. On 
 entering the hall, a well-dressed man ran up to us and 
 insisted on shaking us both warmly by the hand. Alger- 
 non forgets who people are, but I was much amused, 
 remembering shortly after that it was the manager of 
 the Dryad Hotel at Victoria. The house was horridly 
 crowded, and, we not being ball-goers, the evening was 
 somewhat disturbed by the sounds of music and dancing. 
 
 The patois spoken by the uneducated class of French 
 Canadians is exceedingly difficult to understand, the 
 pronunciation being so very different. Indeed, were some 
 of this people set down in the middle of Paris, I doubt if 
 they would be understood at all. For instance, a child 
 comes up to us in the street and says, " Quel td" We 
 don't understand what she wants, but a Canadian gentle- 
 man passing pulls out his watch and tells her the hour. 
 " Qtielle heure est-il ? " was her question. 
 
 The snow has come at last, there being about six inches 
 in the streets, and we have had two sleigh drives; the 
 sleighs lined with buffalo robes and the drivers dressed in 
 furs are comfortable and picturesque. 
 
 December 4th. — The weather is again wretched, so we 
 have suddenly decided to sail on the 8th from New York. 
 Algernon this morning met Captain Armstrong, who told 
 
 him the C s were well, and had left the Eootenay 
 
 Valley, which we. were glad to hear. 
 
 ■) 
 
XX.] 
 
 AMERICAN HOSPITALITY. 
 
 a7S 
 
 We are sorry to say good-bye to Canada, where we have 
 spent so many happy months, but the prospect of home 
 is delightful, as I am tired of wandering. 
 
 Hotel Brunswick, New York. — ^We arrived here yester- 
 day; the weather beautifully bright and mild. We 
 walked round most of the principal streets and saw the 
 shops, and many nice carriages and well-dressed people. 
 Here one feels instinctively that dress is more studied 
 than in England. 
 
 The elevated railway was not quite so ugly as I 
 expected ; it looked to me like a railway bridge. 
 
 Friday. — Most hospitable are the Americans. We left 
 one of our letters of introduction with Algernon's card 
 before dinner last evening. In an hour or so we received a 
 very kind note, saying that the friend to whom it was ad- 
 dressed would call in the morning. He duly arrived, and 
 was most kind ; promised us an excellent time if we would 
 remain for even a week longer in New York. Alas I our 
 plans are settled, the passages in the Unibria taken for 
 to-morrow, and, after considering the matter, we think that 
 as the weather is unusually fine and mild, we had better 
 seize this favourable opportunity for crossing the Atlantic, 
 as only ten days ago furious storms raged all along the 
 Atlantic coast, causing shipwrecks and disasters of every 
 kind. 
 
 Failing to induce us to prolong our visit, our friend 
 
ai6 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 (. .' 
 
 y 
 
 at once said, " Then we must do all we can to-day," and 
 we start forthwith. 
 
 Firstly, he gives us a luncheon-party at Delmonico's, 
 the well-known restaurant, where we tried the famous 
 American dish, terrapin. Terrapin is a species of small 
 turtle ; ours was served stewed in a wine sauce, with 
 truffles. After an excellent lunch, at which a most 
 charming young lady made the fourth, we started for 
 Tiffany's, the shop in New York which one ought to see. 
 Our friend seemed well known there as a good customer, 
 and we were shown at his request the most beautiful gems, 
 necklaces, pearls, and other beautiful and costly things, 
 many of them having been purchased at famous sales in 
 Europe. This building is a great square block of five 
 floors, and one mounts to each floor at will in an elevator, 
 which mounts at twice the ordinary pace. We pass 
 through endless clocks, bronzes, statuary, china, and fans, 
 until we cry, "Enough." During Christmas week, Mr. 
 Tiffany tells me he generally sells over $1,000,000 worth 
 of goods. 
 
 From Tiffany's to the curio shops, from there to the tea- 
 party of a friend our kind guide takes us. In the evening 
 we have a pleasant dinner-party of six at his house, and 
 this makes a charming fintale to our few days at New 
 York. In all countries and among all nationalities, there 
 are interesting people and the reverse. Nowhere did we 
 meet more pleasant men and women than in America. 
 There is a charm and originality about the race one sees 
 
XX.] 
 
 PEA'NUTS, 
 
 277 
 
 nowhere else. But there are Americans and Americans 
 in the same way as there are pleasant people and the 
 reverse in other countries. It is for this reason hard 
 on the nice Americans to class them all together like a 
 flock of sheep, often too much the way in England. 
 
 For many weeks I have been on the look-out for some 
 poa-nuts, as one can arrange capital Chinese dolls by 
 dressing little figures, using the nuts to form the face, 
 hands, and feet. Now to buy pea-nuts in the street of an 
 American town is the quintessence of vulgarity ; it would 
 be like eating hot chestnuts at a stall in Piccadilly. Ap 
 we go along the street, I see a stall and a basket of 
 pea-nuts. Algernon sighs, but we are alone and nobody 
 knows us, so I ask the proprietor of the pea-nuts to sell 
 me a small number ; he proceeds to fill a bag, is 
 overjoyed with the five cents I give him, and I carry off 
 my nuts in triumph — truly the only cheap thing we have 
 seen in New York. My triumph lasts but a short time ; 
 the paper of the bag is thin and breaks, my mufif is 
 small and won't hold them, and our friend, who is to 
 rejoin us shortly, will be terribly shocked at my 
 carrying such vulgar things. Happily, though, there is 
 a large deep pocket in my gown, and into this the bag of 
 nuts fits wdl, and there it remains, harmlessly enough, 
 for the rest of the afternoon. 
 
 Saturday y December 8th. — An early start, and we are soon 
 on board the Umlria. Crowds of people on the pier, seeing 
 
278 IMPRESSIONS OF A TENDERFOOT, [chap. 
 
 their friends off. A beautiful morning as we steam down 
 the river and out into a perfectly calm sea. 
 
 Another fine day, which I enjoy whiling away the long 
 hours watching the varied lights and shadows on the 
 water, and a stray sail now and then. 
 
 The ship began to roll, and roll she did. Happy lands- 
 men, who have never been to sea, write nautical songs, 
 like "A Life on the Ocean Wave," and "Over the 
 rolling Sea." I would advise them not lo try the 
 reality. How the ship groans ! how she rocks and strains, 
 and seems even to gasp as fresh waves strike her! I 
 feel for the next few days too ill to live; existence is 
 painful, and the most dismal thoughts crowd into my 
 aching head. All our loose things fall from time to time 
 heavily on the floor of our cabin, or roll about there. 
 Algernon, who is an excellent sailor, sleeps peacefully the 
 whole night. The captain and sailors call all this motion 
 a breeze. I am thankful not to have seen a storm. I 
 impart to the stewardess who looks after me the informa- 
 tion that personally I would prefer the occupation of 
 crossing-sweeper to any position of distinction on board 
 ship. Yet she tells me that there is considerable difficulty 
 in procuring the situation of stewardess, so many women 
 apply for the vacant situations. 
 
 My maid was too ill to be of the slightest use to me 
 either going or returning. They may be willing, but, as 
 a rule, servants are not good travellers. 
 
 te-;fw* 
 
XX.] 
 
 HOME. 
 
 279 
 
 After six days and nine hours (then the second best 
 passage on record), a sight of Ireland made us feel our 
 voyage was nearly ended, and the following morning we 
 steamed up the Mersey, and found ourselves safely at 
 Liverpool. I felt so happy that I could have shaken 
 hands with every one I saw. 
 
 To thoroughly enjoy home one must travel, and when 
 far away by comparison is realized the rest, the comfort, 
 and the repose which one finds in no other place. 
 
 I to me 
 )ut, as 
 
 In 
 
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 il: 
 
■BBSRaOS 
 
 I '. 
 
 LoxDoy : 
 
 PBIMTKO Br WILUAK CL0W13 AND 80N8, LIMITUD, 
 STAIUOUO 8IB1BT AND CHAKUia CKOSS. 
 
 l/i 
 
 I ^ |l'i 
 
 «' .1 
 
 01 
 
 !^ 
 


 London 
 
Lpndon, John Murray 
 
 H'alAer i!r Boutallsc. 
 
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 l!ll 
 
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 wme^^^mm 
 
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Albemarle Street, London. 
 October, 1800. 
 
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