IMAGE EVALUATBON TEST TARGET (MTS) 1.0 I.I ■30 "" 163 uuu M 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■« 6" ► V] > ^2 ^. <^2 ^^'^ ^%. #^ /A o^ Photographic Sciences Corporation « r^\ ^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4303 ^ yf "^ V ^1>^ A' «- CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et biblicgraphiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically uniaua, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couieur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pellicul^n Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes g^ographiques en couieur Coloured ink (i.b. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couieur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) □ Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couieur □ Bound with other material/ Relii avec d'autres documents D n n Tight binding may caus^ shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serree peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distorsion le long de la marge intdrieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutAes lors dune restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsqu£ ceia itait possible, ces pages n'ont pas Mi filmdes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimentaires; L'lnstitut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a iti possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-etre uniques du point de vue biblicyiaphique, qui peuvent modifiar une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans 'a m^thode normale de filmage soHi indiqu^s ci-dessous. r~~[ Coloured pages/ Piiiges de couieur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagies Pages restored and/oi Pages restaurdes et/ou pelliculdes Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages d^color^es, tachetdes ou piquees Pages detached/ Pages d^tachees Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prin Quality in^gale de I'impression Includes supplementary materia Comprend du materiel supplementaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible r~n Pages damaged/ J I Pages restored and/or laminated/ r~n Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ I I Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ r~^ Includes supplementary material/ I I Only edition available/ n Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiallement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., on' 6ti filmdes i nouveau de facon a obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filme-l at the reduction ratio *;hecked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiqui ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X Thn copy filmed hers has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: McLennan Library IVIcGill University iVIontreal The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in Iteeping wirh the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —^(meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever appiiea. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand comer, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams iliustr«t« the method: L'exempiaire filmA fut reproduit grice A la gin^rcsiti de: McLennan Library McGill University Montreal Lee imeges suivantes ont iti reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at de la nettetA de l'exempiaire film^, at en eonformiti avec les conditions du contrat de fiimage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim^ sont filmis en commeri«;ant par le premier plat at en tsrminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impreasion ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, seion le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmte en commenpant per la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration at an terminant par la derniiire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un dea symboie'i suivants apparaitra sur la demiire image de cheque microfiche, seSon le caa: Ic symbols — *> signifie 'A SUIVRS", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Lea cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmte A des taux de rMuction diff«rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seuj cliche, il est filmi d partir de I'angle supirieur gauche, de gauche i droite, et de huw en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imeges nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iilustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 9!iPani j^ssassmam Baron LioMAL Nathan DeROTHSCHILID. Momher cf FarliarncriL, fcr the City of London. RUIIING SKETCHES OF J^tn onh ^Mutts, IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, GERMANY, BELGIUM, AND SCOTLAND. BY GEORGE COPWAY, (KAII-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH) CIIIE? or THE OJIBWAY NATION, NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. mm JIllustraUonB. NEW YORK: I J. C. RIKER, 129 FULTON STREET. 1851. I r// Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year J851, by . GEORGE COPWAY, In the Clerk's Office for the Southern Dis.rlt of New York. STKKKOTVPKD BV THOMAS B. SMITH. 216 WILLIAM STBKBT, K. Y. TO RICHARD PENNELL, M.D., AXD HIS LADY, AS A MARK OF THE HIGHEST RESPECT AND GRATITUDE FOR THEIR KINDNESS, QL\)is bolume IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. ! ^ttfiixt. In putting out the following pages, it has been in part to satisfy the inquiries by my- friends in this country, how I liked my tour through Europe, as well as to pre- serve the pleasing incidents which were shown me, by the people wherever I sojourned. Without following the general course of travellers in encumbering their books in deep historical researches of the various countries they have visited,— I have merely put enough to interest the general reader, of the towns, and time-worn ruins which came under my personal observation. Much of this is devoted to sketches of men now prom- inent before the European public, which I hope will re- pay the reader for the time occupied in reading them. Evening after evening I have been requested to recite my impressions of the country since I have returned. I send forth this volume to the fireside of the paleface. All VI PREFACE. hope will be overlooked by them. Now I am once more ia the land of my fathe™. A :"■''': ';-.^="°- '">-="" than ever,-a„d™y the Great Spmt ever smile on the land of my birth. Farewell until you hear from me again— Kah-ge-ga-gah-bowh. New York, May, 1861. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. THK DEPARTURE, '^" CHAPTER IL ™^ 0^^*'' 21 CHAPTER III. THE OCEAN- ... ' 29 CHAPTER IV. IRISH CHANNEL AND COAST, oa CHAPTER V. ARRIVAL-STRANGE THIN(J8 AND PEOPLE— DOCKS, SHIPS, BTO., . 42 CHAPTER VI. THK PEOPLE TOWN COl'NTRY r« CHAPTER VIL HISTORICAL NOTICES OF LIVERPOOL a» ' ' • • • . 66 II if ■ • • via CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. COMMENCEMENT OF TEAVEL 'AOt 77 CHAPTER IX. LONDON, CHAPTER X. ILLUSTBIOCS ILLiTSTRATED CHAPTER XI. BAMBLE8 IN HAMPTON COrw ' CHAPTER XII. ANOTHER VISIT TO LIVERPOOL > • • CHAPTER XIII. JENNT LIND, . CHAPTER XIV. BAPTIST NOKL-TRAVELS TO COLOGNE. THE RHINE, PSACE CONGRESS . CHAPTER XV. CHAPTER XVL 91 98 114 127 148 IfiS . 198 . 208 CHAPTER XVII. AFTER SKETCHES OF SPEECHES AND MSN .221 77 148 153 CONTENTS. ix CHAPTER XVllI. WUtTtHKS CONTINUED, . . '«„? CHAPTER XIX. VISIT TO HKIDKLBEUO. , . nKA ' 264 CHAPTER XX. LONDON AOAIN, „,._ CHAPTER XXI. FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND 282 CHAPTER XXII. LFCTURES AND ADDBESSES IN LONDON, AND TRAVELS TO THE •"'^"^ 297 CHAPTER XXJII. SCOTLAND, ... .«. 884 1# J fi • if: EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. CHAPTEE I. THE DEPARTURE. It is nearly five months since I first had any idea of going to Germany. It was suggested in a conversation I had with the great Philanthropist and celebrated " Learn- ed Blacksmith," ElihuBurrett, in Washington. The fact of leaving my native land seems now a reality. The suggestions which were then made as a means of prepa- ration, have been attended to — and now I am going to a country where the people will be strangers to me, and whose language will be difierent from mine — whose habits and manners will be altogether their own. I have thought that I loved my native land ; but I realize it more to-day than ever ; and all that is Imrely in ^ 12 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. -ynafve land is magnified. I .an .e at .hi, .no^ent al the ,ce„e. „C beau.y and grandeur which I have be. held u. .he f„re». „„,d. The rivers whose courses I havo traced as .hey glided i„ deep shadow through .he forests- the beautiful lakes on whose wooded banks I have wan- '™''""""'-°°^— -"=" in n,y view; and alter- nately pleasure and regret flit across my breast as I think ot the varied past. Valley after valley, and mountain after mountain ap-' pears in view, and in each I recognise a familiar face, wh.eh ofte,, greeted me in the land where I first drew my brea.h. and found I had my me in a world of .„i, ] may see other countries equally beautiful and grand in -nery, yet let me he an enthusiast tbr my own dear na. .ron must sever me from my mends and conntry. My path no one knows save the Deitv ^ tu . ^ ^^'^y ■ The waste of waters ^^"'"""-•'-"■'-"".emysensationswhen =hal firs, see the 01, WoH,? Wha. kind of country 18 England ? is Germany ? ^ Such were my thoughts while seated in the Adams House, m Boston, to take my breakfast for the last time before sa.lmg_a„d while mustng thns, , perce,ved ,u,.e ' '*%■ EUROPEAX OBSERVATIONS. 13 a commotion among the boarders as they sat at table, and I could distinguish the following sad sentences, " The President is dead ! He died last evening." Then Gen- eral Zachariah Taylor is no more ! and we shall take to Europe the news of his death. My only wish on hearing of this event was for his safety ; and I hoped the Great Spirit had forgiven him for killing so many of the red men of my country. " Haste ! Haste !" the hands of my watch told me, as I found that the time of my departure was near. Every- thing being in readiness, I took to the steamer, where I met my friends. What a beautiful morning ! The sky so clear, and brought nearer, as it were, by sympathy with earth ! The air, heated by the warm sun, came to us soft and balmy, as our vessel lay anchored in the shade. Life in the crowded streets, and noise of carts echoing in the busi- ness part of the city ; and Commerce pouring her treas- ures from every clime to the wharf of Boston ! Havin"- gazed with wonder and admiration on the ships, and wharvt., and warehouses, I stepped on board the beauti- ful Niagara. I found one on board who is going to the Peace Congress, the Rev. Dr. Barrett, of Boston He u EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. wa, attended by a band of soldier,, who honored hun w„h their coming down to see him ofl; because he had tickled the.r ears with a very neat and appropriate sermon yes- terday. Just five minutes before twelve o'clock, brandy wme, and music. The Captain mounted the paddie-box' and called out "Let go I" and as the wheels moved I «.ounted the long-boat and delivered the following ad- dress to my friends on the wharf: which having delivered, I had to throw at them. I ,i*'i " The day is bright'ning which we long have sought. I see Its early light and hail its dawn • The gentle voice of Peace ™y ear hath caught, And from my forest home I greet the morn liere, now, I meet you with a brother's hand- B,d you farewell-then speed me on m^ way lo jom the white men in a foreign land And from the dawn bring on the bright noonday. Noonday of Peace! O. glorious jubilee, ^ When ail mankind are one from sea to sea. Farewell, my native land, rock, hill, and plain, River and lake, and forest home adieu- Months shall depart e'er I shall tread again Am.d your scenes, and be once more with you I leave thee now ; but wheresoeer I go Whatever scenes of grandeur meet my eyes, ^ EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. My heart can but one native country know, And that, the fairest land beneath the skies. America ! farewell ; thou art that gem, Brightest and fairest in earth's diadem." 15 Having backed to the middle of the stream, our wheels rolled and thundered forward, and with the first revolu- tions they made, our iron lungs went '' Bangr '' Bangr The echo having died away, we were soon seen in the distance. The harbor of Boston appears most to advantage when looking at it from the water. The waters are still, and yet the surface is all life-crafts of every name and size, and vessels from every country ! The flags of nations here wave without fear. The further we were borne on by our ship, the more the city of Boston seemed to lift up her spires, glittering before the sun. The State House rising above the rest, appeared to look down the chimneys around -t. Viewino- this I thought of my first excursion to its summit, eleven years ago, when I first attempted to learn the ways and language of the Pale Face. From yonder steeple I then gazed with wonder and astonishment on the works of the 16 EUROPPJAN OBSERVATIONS. wh.te man. I had ju»t come from the forest, where the wh,te man with hi, axe had hardly ever entered Tra- -S my varied life was like watching the snow-white clouds, which though lovel>, now assume a dark and (rownn,g aspect, and anon, when they have been rent by slonns, arc light and fleecy. As we ploughed down and out of the harbor, the sea seen,ed ready .„ fed „s i„ i,s arms. A lovelier day I Imve hardly ever seen. May the Gods be kind and pro- pitious I The last thing I could see in the distance was the Bunker Hill Monument, which appeared to tower over all the surrounding country. This column was reared in commemoration of a battle, and in honor of men who •ought bravely for their firesides, while they expelled the red man from his native soil. The day I h„pe is „„t ,i, d.stant when the cause of Humanity will be blessed with the men wito will change this spirit of hero-wchip into adoration for everything noble and elevating. Then shall columns devoted to the Prince of Peace arise one after "..other to the clouds, which shall be hke beacon lights ... the highway of Progress for the generations yet to come. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 17 The rocky Islands loomed far off in our view, and soon nothing but the dark outline of the land could be seen — and still I gazed and gazed, and when it had become concealed from sight, I could with a heart full of affection for my native land, say — " America, America I Heaven's blessing attend her 1 While we live we •will cherish, and love, and defend her. Tho' the scorner may sneer at, and witlings defame her, Our hearts swell -with gladness whenever we name her." To the following gentlemen I am greatly indebted for their kindness in preparing for my journey. God bless them. I have never asked a true American anything but I have received. I can do nothing more than to love and cherish them. Their smiles have left a lasting sensation in my heart. I may find in the world men equally kind to me, but these I shall never forget : J. P. Bigelow, the Mayor, Amos Lawrence, Julius A. Palmer, and Mr. Walworth. I might namo others who have been my friends in Boston. Those have upheld me in all my efforts — they gave me encouragement in their expression of good-will to my race, and notwithstanding all the many aggrava- ted wrongs which my poor brethren have received from 18 ECEOPEAN 0BSEBVATI0N3. the hand, of .he Pale Faee, I have a nature within „e wh,eh, when I see the kind aets of the white man covers a multitude of sins. I have regarded the Christian of this country a, one whose opportunities of doing good have been numerous • and who when he has embraced these opportunities has enjoyed more of Heaven's smiles than any one could ex- penence elsewhere. On board this Steamer bound for Europe are people from all parts of the United S.ates-from the south north and west-caeh having an object in view. Some' are going to the continent, and others on business of an official character, while others are in pursuit of happi. ness or riches. Here I am too_a Delegate to the Peace Congress in behalf of the Christian Indians of Ameri. ca! A few years, and what a change : Not very long ago I heard the war-cry of the West ringing in my ear. The scattered and mangled remains of noble figures I have seen; But the dawn of a better day has" come. The war-whoop has died away in the song of praise to the Great Spirit. Art, Science, Literature, like a thousand streams, roll on their mighty tide, to purify and refine the Indian mind. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 19 There is a man on board who seldom speaks — silent, thoughtful, grave, even to sadness. Who can he be ? An Englishman in appearance, an Englishman I find him to be. But sad his experience ! The Q,ueen City of the West vi^ill be to him an interesting spot, for in travelling while there a bright and noble youth died, and that man is his father, carrying the sad intelligence to his own domestic circle of the death of his son. His intention was to have travelled all over the United States and the Canadas, that this son of his might bee as much as was desirable of the New World before he should settle down in some professional calling. But what a contrast ! There is a Southern gentleman whose very finger ends are full of life, and whose wit- ticisms set the whole company in a roar of laughter. So full of animation, so full of oddity is he that you have only to look that way and a hearty laugh will instantly put to flight a legion of '< blues," if you happen to be troubled with these unwelcome visitors. Sea-sickness ! what utter wretchedness and mise- ry ! The wind is fair, the sky is clear, and the boat moving at the rate of thirteen knots an hour. A table groaning with good things, but the very sight of them lil ii 20 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. distracts you. I have been trying my best to eat, but cannot—and perfectly disgusted with the eatables of the salojn, good as they are, bid adieu to all, and "turn in" for the night about 8 o'clock. k^ I ""^ CHAPTER II. THE OCEAN. Old Ocean I Here it is, surrounding me on all sides ! — To the limit of human vision this expanse of waters is illimitable, except that it is bounded by the horizon, which forever recedes as we approach it. How appal- lingly is the mind impressed in contemplating these huge domains! What wonders lie in the world beneath familiar to the monsters of the deep, but strange and mysterious to us. Here too are objects of terror— shoals and quicksands that lie treacherously concealed, waiting the behests of Fate, and the maniac fury of the Ocean to give to their desolate bosoms the treasures of which they are forever bereft. Our noble ship is now sailing over deep valleys and lofty mountains, like an eagle in upper air, and the peering eye of Imagination, which is sharper than the eagle's, sees far down, dismal caverns and the V i 4 22 EUROPEAN OBSEKVATIONa. i«ve,„e.,. of h„„,a„ bones. Porchance there are i,. that iatho,„le,a region tho,e who porforn, the ritea of Chria- fan burial for the „oor sailor, and that his body repose, m some sepulehre-but ah <. it eaunot be. A hie on the sea and a life „„ ,he la„d_h„w slrikin. 'l.e contrast I Reverting from the present to n.y child- hood, and from the sea to „.,y home in ,h„ forest I re- member a saifor, by the name of Lewis, who strayed from the coast to my father's lodge, and who became so attached to onr mode of hfe that he lived with ns three or fonr years. When he came to understand onr Ian- guage so as to be understood in the n-igwam, he told u. many a thrilling tale of the sea. F, ,., this stray son of the ocean I gathered my reverence for the sea ; and the thought of its waves throbbing upon the shore swelled n.y heart wuh emotion. The one thought that has been w,lh me ever since is of its awful grandeur, and of it, Manitou who made all things, tell us of a monstrous great hsh, su no doubt maids. t cue v.h.ie-and of sharks, sea-bears and mer- superstitious tales of the sea found a ready woleome in the wigwam of the Indian, by his warm fire -a hospitable board. In the winter nights, eighteen 1 are in that 8 of Chris- 5dy reposes w striking- niy child- rest, I re- strayed lecatne so 1 us three our lan- e told us ly son of and the swelled las been d of its ngs. eat fish, id mer- a ready rm fire ghteen EUROPE AN OBSERVATIONS. 28 years ago, I would sit with iny chin resting on the palms of my hands, and, listening to Lewis, drink in the whole story of the ocean. His " yarns" were long and tough, hard to digest, yet I believed all he said, ibr his sage pipe, added to my veneration for age (for his locks were white and he had trod for years the hard path of experi- ence), gave me the most implicit confidence in him. These tales, wakened to life by the sea-breeze, are now crowding in my head — but where is the sea-munster? Stop ! be patient I we shall see the father of black fish by-and-by. The secottd day out. No wind of any account — the sky is clear — the sun's lieating rays pour on our deck deep waves roll onward and before us, as if they feared to be overtaken — our foaming track stretches like a fur- row over the field of waters — Our vessel rolls heavily onward, the ar«is of iron clashing below the deck, and the wheels thundering their revolutions through the foaming billows — Our bow now rising and bowing ma- jestically, and now see-sawing over the ridge of a moun- tain wave. delightful ride, were it not for sea-sick- ness ! What indescribable misery does this single word impart I It is as if a dozen live chickens were fighting 24 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. in you, or dancing a half-civiiized polka. Imagine this, and you will have a good idea of sea-sickness. But enough of this, for it is now comparatively calm, and our company one by one ascend the quarter-deck to promenade with zigzag steps. "A whale on the starboard side!" sang out one of the crew. There, sure enough, at more than two miles, distance, the spray rose at intervals, and long did I watch it, and not till it had passed from sight did I begin to realize that I was on the ocean, where there are monsters that play with the waves as if they were the ripples of a lake. Then again Lewis's " sea yarns" came trooping around me, and the sight I had just be- held gave fresh coloring to his pictures. Thefoicrth day. Still the wind is fair; our sails in full stretch-the waves rise higher and higher-a mo- notonous life in a very small kingdom is tiat on shipboard -yet we have here the Scotchman s " war-whoop." the bagpipe, squeaking most delightiul music. The young man himself who greased the wheels of Time by opening and shutting his arms over the bag of wind, apparently enjoyed the sound : and certainly those who can find something to admire in this, have more discrimination EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 26 magine this, kness. But calm, and rter-deck to out one of two miles, long did I sight did I e there are y were the sea yarns" d just be- IV sails in -r — a mo- shipboard loop," the he young f opening pparently can find mination than I am possessed of. Up and down he trod the quarter-deck, treading out his music and smiling at his fine performance— ogling and squinting, and laughing expressively at one corner of his mouth. This is what our backwoodsmen would call a big-horned music. But it is a good mu^ic when nothing else can be got ; and thankful we are to enjoy it. It is night again, and the bright-eyed stars one by one peer out, beholding themselves reflected in the sea. I stand on the stern of the boat, and whole worlds mirror their bright faces on this ocean. There goes a shooting star :— and along its fiery track lies a trail of glory, dying behind it. It is gone ! but where ? Why did the never-dying stars tremble as it passed ? I was taught in the woods that these bright stars were the homes of the good and the great— that each one was a representative of some hero of former ages, whose vir- tucs shone in the skies according as he had done on earth. If so— which of these represent a Howard, a Raikcs, a Calvin, a Luther, a Wesley, and a Wash- ington ? In deeds of virtue God is the San, and others appear, only when He is the centre of attraction. The sun has gone down in the west, carrying comets in his 26 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. iJ i| fiery bosom, but in a few short hours he will ascend the eastern skies, and glory will spread over the sea, and the rolling billows will shout his welcome. What a journey will the earth have accomplished in a few short hours I But what is this compared with the speed of the mind ? Give lightning the start by a million of furlongs, and the mind will be the first to reach its destination. It is itself a universe of stars, and of these there is a polar star by which in this world it guides its frail bark over the ocean of life. As the speed of a body may be so great that the distance over which it passes is imperceptible, so it is with the mind. In the twinkling of an eye it travels to whatever part of creation it pleases — and the eye of the mind possesses magnifying powers that no dis- tance can elude. I have no doubt but that at this very moment Dr. Dick and Dr. Nichol are travelling from star u star with their telescopes. I have learned from these star-gazers much useful reflection. These rolling wheels, which are a fee- ble representation of the revolving spheres, say I shall yet see them in the old world. Like a child I would sit at their feet and learn wisdom. A few hours ago I felt nothing but the monotony of the scene — now, new beau- •f EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 27 ascend the ea, and the -t a journey hort hours I 3ed of the of furlongs, ination. It ! is a polar I bark over be so great )erceptible, f an eye it i — and the hat no dis- it Dr. Dick with their Lzers much [ are a fee- iay I shall '. would sit ; ago I felt new beau- ties are seen in every spray and new glories in the sky. This is the very place where one can realize something on which the soul can live. Say what you will, I feel like a man. The ocean has turned slave, and bears us on its back to a distant land. The mightiest element is conquered by man, and its waves in humiliating agony die groaning at his feet. I feel a more vital current running through my veins when I reflect that some part of mc is immortal. What if fleets and navies are some- times engulphed in the sea, and thousands go down to people its caverns, — the mind, the soul, yet lives, and must live on though the last billow should howl its wail of woe for the expiring stars. Every strip of sail, every rope, every spar, and every revolution of the paddle, echoes the sentiment that man is immortal. Every breath of steam and every clash of polished steel in this wonderful machine that is urging us onward, tells me that man alone is next to God. The forests may wave their heads, and the mighty rivers may roll on, singing their songs of exultation— yet are they but the emblem of human majesty and greatness. The mountains may rise to the sky, or pierce the home of the Great Spirit- yet man is the one for whom this world is made, and m M« 28 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. who was made for a world higher than this. The ocean may be his burial-place, or the wide earth may become one vast cemetery, where rich and poor, master and slave, civilized and savage, with friends and enemies, lie side by side. No distinction now ! Sleep on, ye genera- tions, sleep I Over your graves I shall yet stray. A day in weeping or laughing, and then I too will haste away. ye bright worlds that are now waiting, embrace the good who are departing I Ye stars, when ye " shout for joy," say to the departing spirit, "Your toils are ended." I could stay in this place all night, and feast my soul with contemplation. The dew and the spray are damp- ening the deck, the passengers have all gone to rest, and 1 too must seek my resting-place. The ocean may become master and enemies, lie 1, ye genera- ;ray. A day haste away, embrace the e " shout for are ended." ast my soul y are damp- to rest, and CHAPTEK III. THE OCEAN". The morning dawns — but old Neptune is either asleep or has gone to visit some " watering place" at the north. The red-faced sun rises out of the sea, and I greet him with a fraternal welcome. Majestically he ascends the eastern slope, and claims the whole azure sky as his kingdom. His rays are pencilled on a floating canvass of clouds, which the skilful fancy would fain weave into the most beautiful drapery. If Sol would only paint such a picture of sea and sky on the canvass over my head as I now behold !— But there is a daguerreotype of it on my memory which the sun-light will not fade. An iceberg ahead ! I have read of icebergs, but this is the first I ever saw. It towers high, like the sail of a ship. I cannot look at it without associating it with the ill-fated "President." A thousand distressing images I 80 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. present themselves at the thought that she may have been sunk by such an iceberg. The screams and groans of the dying, mingled with the sudden letting off of steam and the roaring of the waters, as she sank to rise no more— I will not think of it ! There was one on board who stirred the souls of men with holy zeal, but whose heart, burning on the altar of his God, was quenched in the merciless v^aters. That noble soul was George Cuokman. Those eyes which electrified assem- blies with their glance, are set like stars in the ocean. Those hands which with their gestures threw a magic spell over the spectators, are perished forever. That voice which stirred the fourtain of feeling to its very depths, is hushed, and the sea-shell whispers his dirge on the deep. But his memory still lives in our hearts. His stirring eloquence breathes the same spirit as of yore. The vestments of his high-born thoughts, and the image- ry with which he surrounded himself, proclaim his genius. The knowledge diffused in his ardent desire for the good of others, is still spreading. The ideas which he awakened in the mhids of others are extending them- selves, for as there is no bound set to the progress of truth so there is no limit to the pursuit of it. Eternity must EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 81 may have and groans ting off of sank to rise i^as one on 'y zeal, but God, was le soul was fied assem- the ocean. w a magic er. That its very is dirge on !arts. His s of yore, he image- claim his desire for as which ng them- s of truth nity must be shortened and infinity must contract its empire, before the rays of truth will cease to fly onward. The influence of this one man will cause heaven to widen its domains ; and like a grain falling into the earth the soul will there multiply itself, having laid its body in the dust and as- cended to its God. " The soul on earth is an immortal guest, Compelled to starve at an unreal feast ; A spark ^vhich upward tends by nature's force ; A stream, divided from its parent source ; A drop, dissevered from the boundless sea ; A moment, parted from eternity; A pilgrim, panting for the rest to come ; An exile, anxious for his native home." It is calculated that at the close of this day we shall be near the middle of the Atlantic, between the Old World and the New, and then I am to read a letter which was not to be opened until the first half of the voyage had been accomplished. On its back was written— " To Kahgegagahbowlk, Present. N. B. Not to be opened and read until half-way over, on his voyage to Europe. By his friend J. S. A." 82 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 1-^ I have had my curiosity excited to know what was in it, for an Indian has some curiosity, though he does not show it by opening his eyes and mouth unmercifully, as refmed and polite nations do, who have more manners than the red man. Soon after sunset I was informed that we were half- way over the sea, which is not what the sailor always means by " half-seas-over." I walked to the bow of the boat, and there stood, looking about me on all sides. Be- fore me, nothing could I see-behind me I eould see noth- ing but the faint track of the stcamer_on my right, noth- ing was to be seen, and on my left, there was no visible object. Above me the stars shone brightly, and beneath me was the dark blue sea. Here is mid ocean ; I can imagine myself suspended between the Old World and the New, at the distance of 1500 miles in each direction. The ocean where we are now-0 how deep it is ! How is my soul oppressed with the feeling of immensity ! A sea without visible limit^this is something which with- out knowledge cannot be contemplated without terror. " Plere is a place to think of the Great Spirit, and to feel him near you. For the first time, I felt awed by the thought that though man may subdue the sea, yet God is SI 1 hat was in 10 does not rcifully, as e manners vere half- or always ow of the des, Be- see noth- ?ht, noth- 10 visible • beneath 1 ; I can I and the lirection. I How ity ! A 'h. with- ; terror. to feel by the EUROPEAN OBSEKVATIONS. 83 greater than man. Like the petrel over the stormy sea, man roams the ocean of life, tossed and agitated by a thousand anxieties. This is about half-way. The waves are rocking cur faithful boat as if they thought it might now take a little rest. The sea sings a lullaby like the tree-tops in my na- tive forests. I dream of land again, where summer never forsakes the plains, and where spring never forsakes the beautiful vales. Rivers swell their tides eternally, and mountains clothed in nature's own garb, lose their tops in the clouds — this is the land for the Indian. " Alas that dreams are only dreams ! That fancy cannot give A lasting beauty to those forms Which scarce a moment live." 2^ God IS CHArTER ly. IRISH CHANXEL AND COAST. Awoke and ^ot up at 4 o'clock, having slept but little. The light-house appeared abreast of us, and the Cape on our right. What a relief it is to see land again ! The shore is barren, and the country perfectly naked. The Island on our left has a house on it. and a small patch of cultivated land. The sky is hazy, anj the atmosphere has a fo-fry ap. pearance. The hills „„ the Irish coast are desolaWook- me objects. Cold Ireland l_yet a land of warm hearts • A country of famine, yet full „f ,h„, „,t„^, ^.^,.^,^_^ wh,ch makes one " laugh and grow fat." The hills ap- pear bold, and so naked that I shudder at the idea ofliv- ing in such a country. I have heard a great deal about Erin. The fortunes of the Irish are as varied as those oi'iny own i^ople-the ty EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 35 history of both is mostly a history of misfortunes. The Iris'imau has nobly struf]ffiled aj^aiiist the tide of adversity that has been bearinj^ him downward, and though phy- sically defeated, he is in mind unconquered, and has still a name in the world. On our right are the hills of " ould Ireland," and we are nearing l^e famrous Giant's Causeway. The cultiva- ted parts of the shore appear in dots, and we are near enough to sec the " huts," about which so much has been said in ridicule and commiseration. Pointing with our spy-glass in the direction of the houses, we see men and women, and children running about the huts. Spot after spot is green, and the crops of the year are beginning to be gathered. The fields of " Murphys," the staple food of the Irish, can be seen. What a delightful morning greets us on our entering the Irish Chamtel / This channel I have read and heard about, and now, in the many associations with which it is connected in my voyage to the Old World, it will never be forgotten. The channel is covered with sails, and sprinkled here and there with ducks. The sky is now clear as far as a sky in this country can be, for I have heard much of the fogginess of Ireland. I se EU KOPK AX O USEIiVATIOXS. Lookhior over the hills, T say lo myiself; " This is Paddy land !" and the very thoi.crht of Paddy is so full of drol- lery that I laugh outright Avheii I think of the genuine wit of the Irish. I have had in my native land, reasons to thank the Irish, for when I have met an Irish gentle- man I have found a gentleman indeed— high-minded, generous, and noble I This is the Emerald Isle which I have seen the emi- grant in Canada weep for ! A love of country is in my breast ! There is none so devoid of feeling but that at times he sighs for home ; and in my own country I have seen this people weep, wringing their hands, while they talked of Cork, the scenery of Killarney, the famed Blarney-stone, and a thousand other things. This people have two peculiarities, 2vit and fecli?tg, which together make eloquence, for which they are so celebrated. The heart's blood of the Irishman is warm : his passions some- times overrule his better judgment. There is a noble daring in his nature which is not easily extinguished. The sweet flower of hospitality is forever budding in his dwelling, however low and humble it may be. There is a queer drollery in each corner of his mouth and eyes. His life is full of great vicissitudes. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. S7 This is the land which fiavc birth to O'Connell, the fiery luj^ot of eloquence 1 His tongue I'anned the fire of Patriotism, and bathed a nation in tears. O'C'onnell stood pre-eminent in the British Tarliament until his death. When he spoke, the shaggy mane of the Briti&h Lion gave evidence of the magnetism of his oratory. The tears of O'Connell mingled with the tears of the two Houses, and of the Reporters, who could not help weeping at the recital of Ireland's misfortunes. The warm hearts of his people justly loved him. This car- ries me back to a scene which I witnessed in Canada, and which, though common, made a strong impression upon me. On the afternoon of a certain day, quite late in the Fall, my father and I, being on a hunting excursion, paused before the cabin of a settler, and soon we heard the peculiar brogue of the Irish inviting us to come in. My father lighted his pipe and was going out, when the man of the cabin insisted he should sit down. The scanty appearance of straw in one corner told the amount they had of this world's goods. "Sit down, master, sit down wid me." My father took a seat, and then commenced a queer conversation. From all that I I 88 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIOXS. y could learn from my imperfect knowledge of English, he was trying to impress my father with the greatness of Daniel O'Connell, his achievements in Ireland, and his speeches in the British Parliament. My father under- stood only a few words of English : " no" and " yes" were the only ones he used in his responses. The Irish- man would show how O'Connell stood while addressing the British Lorus, and then with a significant look say to my father, " You think O'Connell a great man ?" My father with a shake of the head answered "no," not knowing which of the two words in his vocabulary ought to be used. "You say no?'' "Yes," said my father, with a nod, very innocently confessing to having used that word instead of " yes." But the enraged Irishman thought all the while that my father deprlci- ated the Statesman of his native land. " You mean 'yes,' eh?" "Yes," said my father with a smile that seemed to deprecate the Irishman's vengeance ; and this ended the interview, which was as warm as the heart of an Irishman would admit of without coming to blows. This incident of my boyhood rushes into my head as fresh as if it had happened just now ; but at that time little did I expect ever to see the land of this race of EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 39 people. Now here it is I its cold bleak hills towering above the mist which creeps along the edge of the shore, and winding ravines full of huts clustering together. Having rested but little last night, I fell asleep, and to my utter disappointment when I awoke we had passed the Giant's Causeway ! and I could only have a glimpse of it as it receded in the distance. Ships are seen all over the surface of the channel. It is very still and calm. How aggravating it must be to sec us shoot by them and they almost stationary I Vari- ous cities of Ireland appear on our right. The sky is full of fog, — and on our left we see Scotland. Numerous sea-birds are flying around us. I am determined to see the Blarney-stone some day. Weary and tired though I am, and with aching eyes, I must sit down to write a note to my father. " No-say. " Me quach ne de nain ne mah owh Monedo. Tah que she non Omah. Me nwah bah me nah quod sah Ewh Odah keem Ewh Me no seno we ne neh." (I had better not write this letter in Indian, on the pages of this book, for fear some one will come on me for darn- I i 1 40 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ages for the breaking of his jaw while trying to speak the words.) THE INTSRPRETATION. " Father. " I thank the Great Spirit that I have arrived here safe. I am now in the land of tlie Irishman. By its looks I should think it a very pleasant land." At 2 o'clock we see the Isle of Man. On our left, steamboat sans in view at a distance. 5 o'clock. The steamer for America is now in sight Our signal hoisted, " The President is dead !" and the captain of the steamer read the signal. " Sir Robert Peel is dead," was the answer. At 10 o'clock we see the lights along the docks, and our gnn'^ repeat the sound with which we parted from the wharf of Boston, 'bang,' 'bang,' ' bang,' with two others added, by which the people will expect to hear somethmg more than usual by this steamer. The line of lights makes a splendid appearance, and if the docks are equal in extent what must I think of the commerce of this city ? We dropped anchor a short time before 12 o'clock. W EUKOrEAN OBSERVATIONS. r This is Liverpool. Wo meet some of those who preceded us to this country. Sunday morning. I hunted among those to whom I carried letters for some one who would invite me to at- tend church with him, and was fortunate enough to suc- ceed. Spoke in the al'tcrnoon. Encountered a few dozen beggars in the street on my way to church. 1 find it hard to get small change for them all. = *-|i It'' 3! 'J ; ii« > i I CHAPTER V. ARRIVAL— STRAXGE THINGS AND PEOPLE- DOCKS — SHIPS, ETC. The Liverpool Times announced my arrival in the fol lowing lans^uage : " A Chief of the Ojibway NATioN.-The steam-ship Niagara, which arrived on Saturday last, brought over to this country the Rev. George Copway, or Kah-Ge-Ga- Gah-Bowh, a chief of the Ojibway nation. Twelve years ago he was a hunter in the woods of America, but having obtained his education at the expense of some benevolent gentleman of the state of Illinois, during the years 1838-9, he returned to his nation, determined to labor Ibr the elevation of his tribe. He has devised a scheme for concentrating and civilizing the American Indians of the north-west, upon territory to be purchased by the free contributions of the American people ; and EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 43 wo uriilerstand he intends shortly to hokl a meeting in this town with the view of explaining the object at which he aims. He is a fine, noble-looking man, very intelligent, and speaks the English language with great fluency, correctness, and elegance. He purposes attend- ing the Peace Congress at Frankfort, and his stay here will necessarily be very limited. He sat on the bench with Mr. Rushton, on Wednesday last, for a short time, and appeared to take great interest in the proceedings of the Police Court." To Mr. Baines the Editor of the Times, and to the Editors of the other papers, I am indebted for the kind manner in which they came forward to place me before the citizens of Liverpool and the British public in general. This, then, is a part of England. How crowded are the streets 1 What large truck horses 1 with plenty of oiiaiibuses and noisy beggars ; and worse than all, the shaving hack-drivers. Beardless as I am comparatively, they yet manage to shave me. Sabbath morning, I went to see the Rev. Mr. Penncll, brother of a friend of mine in New York. This gentle- man's kindness was serviceable to me in a great many ways— I shall not forget it. We attended a meeting *' l>i li H- ^ h * I & u E r itOPKAN 0U8E It VATlONri. out ol' town ill the rural district of Seacornbo. The Old World beiiijr new 1 o me, my first business will be to make observation of tlii ii^'s, and to describe tlietn as I sec tl lem. Lik e .1 new being on the sta«re of lile, I must gatb, i- ihj materials (or future reilectiou. I am now a school-boy, and I shall study the English character, and leurn if jjossible some of its many noble qualities. Now, alter live days, gazing, I have seen somethin.r of the English. How kind they are! The name of Charles ^Sumner, of Boston, is here justly appreciated, Ibr wherever 1 have delivered the letters from this gentle- man I have met with a cordial reception. I am snugly housed with the Rev. G . Pennell. The Mersey river sweeps before me, ebbing and llowing with the sea. The view of the harbor is beautiful ! Belbre these several items of interest grow cold I will sit down and write a friend in Boston, the Kev. Mr. Norris, for I must still send '• paper talk" to my American friends, though I am :],000 miles from them. M// Dear Friend : — I am Liverpool, July eYth, 1850, now in a strange place. The country, the people, and the places are strange. The sky is strange— indeed the waters before my win- ;«?' EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 45 (low roll with strange rapidity. The steamhoats look strange, black, miserable things — the wretched ferry- boats are the worst things of all. The recollection of Lhe ocean is grateful to me, for never did I dream that I should ever have such a pleas- ant journey over the " big waters" as I did. Fair winds, clear skies, and no rolling sea — calm as the wa- ters of our dear " Hudson," that beloved river, which winds along (as Byron said of such scenery,) " In the wild power of mountain majesty." The Port of Liverpool. From my window I can see a thousand ships. They appear like forest trees, their masts towering between me and the great city. The tide, rising higher here than in America, rolls in and out rapidly before me, and the diversity of ships sweep in a mighty phalanx, on each side of the river. I can see all kinds of boats, from a yawl to a steamship. The steam- boats run here on these waterr nearly as often as our omnibuses in the streets of Boston. But how wretched they are I no cover overhead at all. The rain comes down without mercy, and the rain here is dirty and smoky enough. 6> !l •k; KUKOI'KAX OIlSKIiVA'I'IONH. The port irt iuliuiiiilily well ciilciilalt'tl to accomiiiodiitf S(>voriil tlioiisatid HliipH iiioic. Tlif Hans of all nations ajipcar lu-n-, and none wave iiiorc proudly than " the Bl(irn and stripes." 'riu-st< Hash iVoui sea to soa, and roll on, ovi-r t'vcry wave. One half the eonnuerce is inider the thi;; of .Viiierica. We bron',rht the news of the death of tho rresident of the United States, into this eonntry. The next day all the Auierieau ships had their lla^s half-mast, and tiic papers from all the prineipal towns of the kin<>doni arc tilled with retrivts at his departure, lie seems to have been esteemed very ' trhly in this eonntry — all ereeds speak well of him. (ireat anxiety is felt us to what eonrse Mr. Fillmore will take with reference to the ox- eitin<«- tpjestions of the day. T/ic Dovks of Liir>-iHH>l. Of tlie celebrity of these YOU have already heard. They are a piece of master workmanshi[) — a noble monument of untiring' industry. The tide brings in a hundred ships inside, and when it g-oes out, it takes with it as many more. There, within the reach of the streets which run troni the town into tho river, are hid secure the ships which liave braved the oceans of all quarters of the world. Here, now, as I KUUOPKAN OHSKRVATIONS. 47 if woary of wanderiuf^ l)y Hra, sliunbcr the p^od-likc in- strumenls of navi^^ulioii. I can lii-ar the peculiar cry of llie sailor, now while I write, T I'elt so snuill when the captain told us that we were ahout half-way over the sea. What I nothiiif» around us but the blue, clear sky, and the ini<;hty caverns be- neath us ! To be suspended thus, is not so pleasant. ]iut, how secure did I feel there, when I knew that (lod was near I His arms were around us. We shall praise him. The town of Liverpool is a rusty-looking place at first ; but the better acquainted you are with the place, the better you like it. The streets are mostly narrow, com[)ared with ours in America. Liverpool appears to be almost as larj^e as New York. The town police is a well-rcf^ulated arrangement. The policemen march to duty just as the soldiers do. They wear black clothes, high hats and glazed at the rim. There nuist be several thousands of them, for they appear to be in every place. The svnoke of the town, or in fact of the whole country, is like the smoke of Pittsburg. I have just commenced with the //inglish, in receiv- ing their hospitality, having already been in the country, 48 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. to the mansions of these Liverpool merchants. I find everything in a tasteful order — the parks, gardens, hedges, ponds filled with fish, &:c., are all in array, as it were, to entice the very angels from the skies. My cause is here warndy advocated by the papers, and I hope to realize the whole of what I had anticipa- ted from these noble English people. I meet with no- thing but kindness. I expect to deliver an address be- fore the Mayor and merchants, at 11 o'clock, A. M., on Monday, and lay my plan before the people, at the Merchants' Exchange Rooms. The Peace Congress does not meet until the 22d of August, and I shall visit Manchester and London before then. Afterwards I go to Glasgow and Edinburgh, and devote two weeks to France. It is my present purpose to return in November. I have only written about the port, docks, town, &c., without much about the people. I must reserve that for another time. My dear friend, do enjoij America while I am away for me too, will you ? and I will see all the sights in Europe for you, in exchange. Farewell ! Yours faithfully, [a. COPWAY, Ojibway Nation. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 49 The common things wliich interest and arrest one's attention are numerous — the town enveloped in smoke ; the docks stretching away for over six miles ; the ferry- boats, smoky, black and dirty — no covers to them. The rain is sufTered to come dovi^n without any conscience on the heads of old and young, and the soot falls on your linen, or on your face, until you make beautiful, fine, delicate streaks across your cheeks and nose in wiping the sweat from your forehead. I see much form and order in everything which con- cerns the conduct of the people. Every lamp-post must have a guard, as if it were an object of great interest and importance, and every corner is more or less favored with the presence of a policeman. None of the well-informed have the impudence which shows itself in asking endless questions. All the impu- dence of the country seems concentrated in the street- beggar, who is the very personification of this questiona- ble virtue. These scape-goats from Purgatory have for nearly a week watched the door of the Waterloo Hotel. They know where green ones resort, and there they gather together like silk-worms on a mulberry. How gracefully they doff their hats I with what mock reve- 60 EUROPEAN OUSERVATIONS. I*^f' I III rence lliey uncover their heads I They bend the knee for a " Penny, please, sir I" Having received one, anoth- er comrade is sent on tlie same errand, until you have given pennies to a company of a dozen beggars, and this only sharpens their appetite. To get rid of this human- ity in rags I gave away many a penny when I landed, but this only brought more. The Waterloo House, the Adelphi, and other large Hotels, are guarded for the special accommodation of the rich by enormous charges. Although I have nothing to say in favor of this, I can assure any of our Americans travelling this way, that they will find all things right at the Waterloo, and the keeper, Mr. Lynn, a fine- hearted gentleman. My experience has taught me that Hotel servants in this country are constant plagues. I am resolved not to be annoyed by them. If any charges for servants are to be made I mean to have it included in the Bill — for when you call for your bill the charge is made out for lodging and meals only. Then come the servants like a regiment of starved turkeys clamoring for food. First the Porter, with an air of dignity, " Please remember the Porter, sir." EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 51 How much ? " 2s. 6d. sir."— (about 02^ cts.) Paid. " Please renioinber the Chamber-maid, sir," says another. How much ? " I get 2s. Q>d. sir."- -Paid. "Please remembc ■ ; Bootblack, sir." How much ? " 2s. sir."— Pau/. " Please remember the 'Enand-boy^^ says a boy, touching his cap. How much ? " 2s. sir."— Pate?. Here comes a man with a whip in his hand, and touches his cap to his forehead. " Please pay for I lo looking at my carnage .'" Job is said to have had a greal deal of patience, but sure I am he never M'as in England. Were I allowed to give advice to these Hotel keepers, I would say, " When you make out your bills, pu* in your charge for Servants' hire and all, and do not trouble us Americans with such intrusions, for our time is pre- cious." CIIAPTEE VI. THE PEOPLE — TOWN" — COUNTRY. m On Sabbath last, in the morning, I first saw Liverpool. I have since visited the docks, public buildings and in- stitutions. One week has nearly elapsed, and I am an- nounced to speak twice on Sunday, the 29th, which is to-morrow. Mr. Richard Rathbone and his brother, the ex-mayor of Liverpool, have been unremitting in their kind atten- tions to me, I shall never forget the beautiful country residences of these gentlemen. The wild woods of " Woodcote"' shall ever have a place in my memory. There I have just been entertained in company with the chief magistrate of Liverpool, E. Rushton, and four or five counsellors-at-law. The lovely pond girded with grass and shrubbery, the beautil'ully shaded walks, the exquisite flowers — how shall I begin to describe them ? EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 53 My friend Richard Ralhbouc's house is in the oentro of this lovely Httle kingdom. On Thursday evening I stood amid tlie foliage of the trees and saw the sun sinking in the midst of gorgeous clouds, its golden rays reflected on the sky and the scenery around me, and then I realized the appropriateness of a description that had before been only a picture in my imagination. " IIow soft the green bank sloping down from the hill To the spot where the fountain grew suddenly still 1 How cool was the shadow the long brandies gave As they liung frt)m the willow, and dipped in the wave ! And then each pale lily, that slept in the stream Rose and fell with a wave, as if stirred by a dream." I left a delightful reality for a remembrance when the carriage drove me away from this place. May the sun- shine of heaven ever rest upon it. Next day, I must go and visit the family of William Rathbone, the ex-mayor. In the lovely spot where I shall see them, the flowers and shrubbery of all lands are growing. " Green Bank" — how appropriate the appella- tion ! Here we must feast again, I suppose : the very thoughts of such a groaning board makes me groan in- wardly, and the recollection of such fearful inroads upon 64 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. m the dainties of the table gives me a leaning in that di- rection. A Reverend gentleman dined with us, and my fondest anticipations as to the dinner were fully realized. After enjoying a walk about the grounds I had reluctantly to leave, for other engagements. Mr. E-athbone is truly one of nature's noblemen. The Liverpool Standard, on Thursday morning, an- nounced our presence and arrival, as follows : "An Indian Chief.— By the Niagara steam-ship, an Indian chief of the Ojibway nation, named Kah-ge-ga- gah-bowkh, arrived in this town. He is on his way to the Peace Congress, at Frankfort, and will only make a short stay in Liverpool. His adopted name is George Copway. We were yesterday introduced to him, and found him a very intelligent man. His complexion is of course rather dark, and his hair long and biack, and he is a tall, well-proportioned, and handsome man, with the manners and graceful dignity of a perfect gentleman. We hail his presence amongst us as a token of spreading intelligence among the North American Indians. We give in another column a well- written poem composed for Mr. Copway and recited by him on board the Niagara. QEORGE COPWAV (ivAi] c.E (lA (5An nrnvn i EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 55 We may also mention that we had placed in our hands two volumes from the pen of our North American friend, one of his own life, entitled, ' History of a Child of the Forest, and of his Nation,' and the other a poetic sketch of 'the bravery and prowess of the Ojibway nation.' Both works proclaim their author to be a man of close observation, of original thought, and of sound judgment." I have learned that the Peace Congress does not sit until the 22d, 23d, and 24th, of next month ; and now I shall have a little time to visit the different towns. I will have one invariable set of rules to observe wherever I shall be durin- my stay in this country— and it is this. I will uphold my race— I will endeavor never to say nor do anything which will prejudice the mind of the British public against my people— In this land of refine- ment I will be an Indian— I will treat everybody in a manner that becomes a gentleman— I will patiently an- swer all questions that may be asked me— I will study to please the people, and lay my own feelings to one side. Since I have to be in the country so long before going to the Peace Congress, I will deliver some lectures and addresses before the people, and endeavor if possible to interest them in reference to the present condition and 56 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. prospects of the Indian races in America, and to give them some idea of what we have been doing for the civilization of the Red man. Sabbath day. I had to speak for the Rev. Mr. Hall, in Birkenhead — A very pleasant time — the people are easily affected — they appear to enjoy themselves. I spoke to another audience this afternoon ; and I must soon speak to another. I see people flocking to the house .... Yes — it was crowded. A very good building, and seats cir- cular — I hope some good is done. One thing I have noticed with regret in this country ; and that is, the agitation of the Wesleyans. There seems to be a division on the subject of government and disci- pline of this body. Many have asked me which side of tho agitation I belong to. My answer has been, / knoio no side. The church government of the Methodists in England and America has been rather too coercive. Too much power is lodged in the hands of the Ministers, and here it has resulted in a rupture all over the country. The papers are full of it ; and the organs of the two sec- tions show that there is a great deal of bitterness of feel- ing on both sides. They run one another down, while each one praises itself The struggle has commenced, and EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 67 no one can tell when nor where the controversy will end. The ministers have no desire of losing their power by ac- ceding to the wishes of the minority. The others are persevering in their demands for a reformation, somewhere, for the good of the whole— and English-like, one is just as obstinate as the other. One thing which seems to be a source of misunder- standing with them, is this— the trjdng of members by the Rules for the temporal regulation of the Church, and condemning them by these rules, and thus reading them out of the churches, which is said to be making the rules for the better temporal government of a church, para- mount to the laivs of God. Whether this is the case I caniiot say, but it is the impression I receive from all that I have heard said on the subject. I was to have given a lecture at the Commercial Sales' Room, but it was attended by gentlemen and no ladies, or at most only two or three. The lecture was then postponed, and the meeting was appointed at the Me- chanics' Institute, where I am to deliver my next lecture. Though I am constantly busy, time slips by me so rapidly that I can accomplish but little — and now for the meeting. The house was crammed, and the people well 3* I 58 EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. Ui ♦-t packed— a good room (br speaking in it is too. On Thurs- day morning, among the papers that noticed my lecture was the Mercury. I shall give the entire report. NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. Last evening a meeting was held in the Mechanics' Institution, to hear the Rev. George Copway, a chief of the Ojibway Indians, explain his scheme for concentra- ting the Indians of North America on the northwest frontier of the United States. There was a very large attendance. Mr. Wm. EATimoNE occupied the chair, and after a few preliminary remarks, introduced Mr. Copway to the meeting. The Rev. Mr. Copway then came forward, and was enthusiastically received by the meeting. After some introductory remarks, he proceeded to state what were the causes which caused the Indians to decrease, and why they had not improved. There had been an idea amongst the pale faces that the Indians were a doomed race : there seemed to be something over their heads, and therefore they would not lift their hands to extricate the Indians. One ot the reasons which caused a decrease in EUBOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 59 the numher of Indians was the diacases which had been introduced into, their, country by JEuropeans, such as small-pox, and other diseases, which their simple medi- cines and limited knowledge were unable to cure ; and not only had their number been diminished by disease, but also by wars amongst themselves, and since European arms had been introduced amongst them the mortality in their affrays had been greatly augmented. The wars which had taken place between the European nations in America had also thinned the number of Indians. The fourta cause of their diminution was the use of ardent spirits, one of the greatest curses which had been intro- duced into their country by the white man. — (Applause.) He instanced two or three cases in which the most de- structive results had been caused to the Indians by the free use of ardent spirits, and yet the white man philo- sophically said this was all Providence. He sometimes trembled for the people of the United States, though he hoped never to have the same feeling as when he was on the war trail. The Indians occupied no half-way ground. When they professed to be Christians they would be found to be so.— (Applause.) He now came to the reasons why the Indians had not improved. The 60 EUUOrEAN OJJSEIJVATIONS. ii^.t ll I reasons why they had not improved wore that no sooner had they a school established, and they befran to culti- vate the ground, than they were forced to give up their land and go further west ; and sometimes when they re- fused to give up their land the most nefarious means were resorted to to compel them to do so. The first great reason, therefore, why they had not improved was that they were not allowed to remain on their land lon»»««■ 1 1 CHAPTER VII. HISTORICAL NOTICES OF LIVERPOOL. [These notices are gathered from a small volume-Black's Rail- way Map.] Liverpool, the second city in the kingdom of Great Britain, is situated on the right side of the Mersey. A castle is said to have been built here by Roger of Poic- tiers, which was demolished in 1659. St. Georges' Church now stands on the site. During the civil wirs, Liverpool held out against Prince Rupert for a month,' but at last it Avas taken, and many of the garrison and the inhabitants were put to the sM-ord. The town was very soon after retaken by Colonel Birch, and continued to remain true to the popular cause. Liverpool was merely a chapelry attached to the parish of Walton, till the reign of William III., and in 1650 there were only fifteen ships belonging to the port. EUllOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 67 It was deeply engaged in the African slave-trade ; and in 1764, more than half this trade was carried on by the merchants of Liverpool. Since the great extension of the Cotton Manufacture, it has become the port where the great bulk of the raw material is received, and whence the exports of manufac- tured goods are chiefly made to all parts of the world. It also enjoys a very large proportion of the trade between England and Ireland, especially since the employment of steam-vessels for the conveyance of merchandise. Liverpool is supposed to possess one-twelfth part of the shipping of Great Britain ; one-fourth part of the foreign trade ; one-sixth part of the general commerce ; and one half as much trade as the port of London. The custom dues are between four and five millions sterling; the Cotton imported reaching a million and a half of bags. The imports are about twenty milions m value, the ex- ports exceeding that sum by a fourth, and it is calculated that 1000 tons of goods pass daily between Liverpool and Manchester. About two fifths of the tonnage inwards and outwards are engaged in the trade with the United States. Considerable trafTic is also carried on v/:h the West India Islands, Brazil, and other parts of South 68 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. America, and the East Indies. Its intercourse with Ire- land is about equal in amount with that kept up with every port in Great Britain. The inland trade of Liver- pool is much assisted by means of canals and railways, and it has benefited more than any port in Great Britain (London excepted) from the application of steam power to navigation. The docks are constructed on the most stupendous scale. They consist of Avet, dry, and graving docks, and a^e connected with wide and commodious quays, and immense warehouses. The wet docks occupy a water superficies of 90 acres, 3384 yards, and the quays measure 7 miles 156 yards in length. Until about fifty years ago, the streets of Liverpool were narrow and inconvenient, and the buildings devoid of architectural beauty, but successive improvements have given to the town an elegance not to be met with in any other commercial port in the kingdom. The most important public buildings are, the town hall, the ex- change building, and the custom house. The town hall is a handsome Palladian building, surmounted by a dome, which is crowned by a statue of Britannia. It contains a rmmber of portraits, and a statue of Roscoe, by Chantry, and on the landing of the staircase there is a statue of ^ -^r EUROPEAN OBSEEVATIONS. 69 Canning, by the same artist. The interior of the town hall, besides the rooms on the basement story, contains a saloon, two drawing rooms, two ball rooms, a banqueting room, and a refectory, the whole elegantly fitted up. The Exchange buildings form three sides of a square, in the centre of which is a group of statuary, in memory of Nelson, executed by Westmacott in 1813. The new custom house, by far the finest building in Liverpool, both in magnitude and architectural execution, contains also the post office, the excise office, the stamp office, the dock treasurer's and secretary's offices, the board room and offices of the dock committee. At the junction of London Road and Pembroke Place, there is an equestrian statue of George IIL, by West- macott. St. James' Cemetery was once a quay of red stone, and consists principally of catacombs. On the summit of the rock, near the entrance, is a beautiful chapel, containing some good sculpture. Here the late Mr. Huskisson was interred, and a monument to his memory has been placed over the spot, with a statue of fine white marble, habited in. a toga, Liverpool contains thirty-two places of worship con- 70 EUROPEAN OESERVATIONS. nected with the Establishment, and fifty-nine belonging to the Dissent,: rs of various denominations. There are in Liverpool, 75 Sunday Schools, with 10,000 scholars; 43 evening Schools, with 548 scholars ; 648 day Schools, with 28,916 scholars; there are 13 Medical charities, 12 provident, and 23 religious. There are 15 literary insti- tutions, 12 places of public amusement, and 10 prisons. Among the literary institutions may be mentioned the Royal Institution, formed in 1814 by Mr. Roscoe— the Literary and Scientific, and Commercial Institution set on foot in 1835— the Mechanic's Institution, opened m 1837 — the Liverpool Institution of Fine Arts— the Atheneum— the Lyceum— the Collegiate Institution, &c. The markets of Liverpool are very remarkable struc- tures ; that of St. John occupies nearly two acres of ground, the whole under one roof, supported by 116 pillars. The Zoological Gardens comprise ten acres of ground, and are laid out with a great degree of taste. The manufactures of Liverpool are not important. There are several sugar refineries, some small foundries, a good deal of ship building in wood and iron, a man- ^^T EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 71 ufar-tory of steam engines, anchors, chain cables, and similar articles naturally demanded iu a large port. The value of the corporation estates is estimated at three millions of money, and the annual income derived from rent and dock dues has increased to upwards of £320,000. A great proportion of this income has been devoted to the improvement of the town, including the building of churches and other public edifices. The sura expended in these objects and in widening the streets be- tween 178G and 1838 amounts to £608,300. The site of Liverpool is low and unhealthy. Accord- ing to the Registrar-General's returns of births and deaths, the deaths and marriages are double, while the births are little more than half the numbers of the averages of all England. la 1700 the population of Liverpool was 4240. In 1841 it was 223,003. It returns two members to Parli- ament. The country around Liverpool abounds in every direc- tion with fine residences. Of these the most important are, Knowsley Hall (Earl of Derby); Croxteth Park (Earl of Sefton) ; Ince Blandell, the seat of the Blandell family ; Childwall Abbey (Marquis of Salisbury) ; Speke 72 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. Hall (Mr. Watt) ; Hall Hall (Mr. Blackbune) ; Wool- tou Hall, &c. At Everton is the cottage where Prince Rupert estab- lished his head-quarters when he besieged the town in 1G44. On the morning of July 31st, Mr. Pennell took me to the Mayor, and Sir Elkanor Etma.ta.fre. Manchester, as its name shows (Man-castra) was a Roman station, and is supposed to have taken its rise in the reign of Titus. Under the Saxons it became the abode of a Thane. After the Norman Conquest, Wil- liam gave the place to William of Poictou. The ba- rony descended to the Grelleys, and the De la Warres, and at length the Manorial rights became vested in the ' family of Mosley. In the civil wars, Manchester ranged itself on the side of Parliament, and sustained a siege conducted by Lord Strau-e, afterwards Earl of Derby. Manchester was distinguished for its manufactures so early as the times of Edward VIH. and Edward VI. At "ist the w^oollen was the only branch of trade ; but since the middle of the last century, the cotton business has taken the lead, and Manchester has now become the centre of that manufacture. Of late the spinning and i!f EUROrEAX OBSEHVATIONS. 73 weaving of silk have been introduced, and the printing and dyeing of silk are also extensively carried on in this town. The manufacture of macliinery has risen to great im- portance and perfection in Manchester, and it has also manufactures of linen, small- wares, hats, umbrellas, &c. Its commerce is greatly aided by its communications with almost every part of England, by means of rail- ways and canals. The district in which the town stands contains some of the best coal strata in England ; a circumstance to which the place is indebted in no small degree for its prosperity. One of the most inter- esting buildings in Manchester is the Collegiate Church, a noble Gothic building, containing several chapels and chantries, a richly ornamented choir, a number of mon- uments. &c. It was built in 1422. The reputed foun- der was Thomas Lord De la Warre. but several other persons assisted in building it. Considerable additions were made in the sixteenth century, and many altera- tions and additions are of recent origin. Of the numerous chapels, all but one are private property. The chapel of the Derby family is that which possesses the greatest share of historic interest. 4 74 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. St. Mary's chapel contains several interesting monuments of the family of the Chathams ; and the Traflbrd chapel, in addition to the memorials of the ancient family from which it takes its name, possesses a very handsome mon- ument to the memory of Dauntsey Hulme, Esq., a dis- tinguished philanthropist. There are a considerable number of other churches in Manchester, and the church-building society has been formed to promote ad- ditional church accommodations. The Dissenters have also numerous places of worship, and Manchester has been long distinguished as possessing a greater dissenting population than any other town in the kingdom. The ecclesiastical government of Manchester was for- merly vested in the warden and four fellows of the Col- legiate Church, subsequently elevated to the rank of a cathedral. The first bishop was consecrated in 1847. The free grammar school of Manchester was founded in the early part of the fifteenth century by Hugh Oldham, Bishop of Exeter, and is very richly endowed, but is far from efl:ecting the good which its splendid resources might pro- duce. Chetham's Hospital, or the College, was originp.lly EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 75 founded by the De la Warres in the reign of Henry VI. After the dissolution, it became the property of the Derby family, and was purchased from the celebrated Countess of Derby, in compliance with the will of Humphry Chc-tham, an eminent merchant, for the pur- pose of forming a blue-coat hospital and library. This institution provides for the education and support of eighty poor children. The library consists of about 25,000 volumes, and there is an annual provision for its augmentation. The inhabitants of the town are allowed free access to it under certain regulations. The educa- tional institutions in Manchester have been defective both in number and quality, but great exertions are now making to extend the benefits of instruction to all classes of the community. There are two Mechanics' Institutions in the town ; several Lyceums ; an Institution called the AthenEeum, a Literary and Philosophical Society, numerous charita- ble institutions, &c. The other public buildings worthy of notice are, the Exchange, the Infirmary, the Society of Arts or Royal Institution, the Town-Hall, the two Theatres, the new Museum of Natural History, the New Bailey Pnson, Manchester Commercial Rooms, &c., &c. Ill hi ht'. hi 76 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. A Botanic Garden was formed here in 1830. There are five railways diverging from Manchester, which furnish the town with the greatest facilities fbr extending its trade, viz. Liverpool, Leeds, Bolton and Bury, Birming- ham and Sheffield Railways. The immense mills, workshops and foundries well deserve a visit from the tourist. Manchester returns two members of Parlia- ment, Its population is 163,856. CHAPTEE VIII. COMMENCEMENT OF TRAVEL. This morning I find good Lessons from the followino-. which will be useful alike to all travellers as it will be to me. And here it is from Mr. Black's Railway Guide. He says, — " Pack up your luggage in such order that you can readily carry with you the small matters you may want on your journey, or immediately on your arrival ; let the rest be put in such trunks, cases, boxes, or other pack- ages as will either effectually protect it, or show at first sight that it must be handled carefully ; remembering that, at railway stations, a great deal of business must be done in a little time, and therefore luggage, which seems able to bear it, sometimes gets rough usage. 78 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIOXS. P Let your name and destination appear legibly on your luggage ; and if you wish to be safe against all chances of loss, put your name and address inside also of each package. Picture to yourself your trunk lying on the road, left in the corner of an office, or sent "out to a wrong direction, and imagine what you would then wish should be on or in it, that it might be correctly and speedily sent to you. What you would then wish you had done, do before you start. Let the label be of a strong material, and firmly attached to the package. Be at the station some minutes before the time ; if you do not resolve to be so, expect to see the train on its way without you. Get your ticket (by paying your fare), and be careful to understand exactly how far that ticket frees you. On some railways you keep that ticket to the end of your journey; on others you are called on Ibr it at startmg. In either case be ready with it, remembering that, if you cannot produce it, you may be called upon to pay your fare again. See where your luggage is placed on the carriage, and prefer that it should be on that in which you are to be seated, if practicable ; see also that the company's ticket EUROPEAX OBSERVATIONS. 79 I or luggage number be affixed to each package, or you may be called on to pay the carriage of it. Expect to pay for the carriage of all your luggage above 56 lbs. weight. -^ Take the best care you can to prevent the necessity of your leaving the carriage before you reach the refresh- ment station at the end of your journey. Take your seats as soon as you have made all needful arrangements; you may have with you a carpet-bag, hat-box, or other luggage, if it be not so bulky as to an- noy your fellow-passengers. Do not open the carriage doors yourself; and do not at any station, except those where refreshments are provi- ded, attempt to leave the carriage for any reason what- ever, without the knowledge of the conductor, lest you be injured by some accident, or left behind. Neither smoking nor dogs are allowed in the car- riages ; the latter are conveyed under proper arrange- ments, and at a small charge, which may easily be learnt ut each station. Female attendants will be found at -^aoh terminus, and at the * refreshment station, to wait on ladies and children. II i 80 EITROPKAN OBSEKVATJOXS. Children under ten years of age are conveyed at half- price ; only inlants unable to walk are carried without charge. Invalids and decrepit persons commonly receive very considerate attention from the persons employed at the stations and on the line ; but they must calculate on none which would materially interfere with the general working of the establishment, except they have expressly applied for, and been assured of, it beforehand. Carriages of various kinds, special and public, suitable to the dilferent localities, will be found at both the termini, and at nearly all the stations. On change of carriage, or leaving the train, be careful to see what becomes of your luggage. Each person employed on the line has a distinguishing u.unbcr on the collar of his coat ; if you have any com" plaint to make, write to the Secretary, designating the offender by his number. Railway servants are enjoined to the observance of civility and attention to all passengers, atul they usually fullil these duties very cheerfully when treated with common propriety. They are forbidden to receive any fee or gratuity." I i EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 81 This I shall endeavor to follow in all my travels. This morning I start for the metropolis. At 9 o'clock the cars move ; everything connected with them goes on like clockwork. The depot is an iron building, covered with glass. Here are men in uniform, at work : they are those who belong to the railway company. The coaches are built diflerently from those in America. They are calculated more for comfort, at least in sum- mer ; but in winter they must be cold, for Lhere is uo place for fire in them. The tunnel through which we pass is over a mile in length, and some distance under ground. Having trav- ersed this artificial cave, the black iron pony starts oa his way to London in good earnest. Here we go ! whirling, rolling, rattling, whistling, at the rate of 30 miles an hour. Our conductor in uniform wear, a watch, and car- ries in his hand a whistle. With his tirr. -piece he reg- ulates his speed, and with his whistle '^alls out " all aboard !"— he speaks not, but Wows his shrill whistle. This I think is a very good arrange.:. :, for many a time some one speaks as loud a. he, nmi iu that case he could not be heard ; but no one can imitntf tlie whistle. This therefore is much more suitab''? than the sailor phrase, 4* II 82 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. " all aboard," to say nothing of the idea which it gives to travelling in a rail-car instead of a steamboat. But no one can stop to ruminate when being run away with. Here we go ! What a beautiful country ! I can at least take a bird's-eye ^-iew of it. Groups of trees, and cultivated fields sp: .,, ig as far as the eye can reach, on both sides. Beautiful green hedges, and fields of grain, some being reaped, and some still standing, waving gracefully as if inviting the reapers to the har- vest. There is scarcely a spot of land as far as the eye can reach that is not cultivated. Wlierever the English- man discovers land there he must have a farm. How vastly superior in poirt of cultivation is th=- mtry to America I Were they as much superior . cu' .ivation of mind, we might be ashamed of ourselves . Unfortu- nately, they who till the soil have generally little time, and still less opportunity, for mental improvement. With- out this, all this landscape beauty is but an outside shell, and when our country shall have become as old as Enf^- land now is, we may excel the English in cultivation and refinement. I could wear out the points of a hundred steel pens in writing the word "beautiful." The garden-like appear- [■* Lit !li i, Si EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 83 ance of the whole country I The architectural appearance of the residences, from the proud castle to the humble cottage, including country seats, churches, farm-houses, and every variety of shelter ! The speedy and perfect arrangement of the railways, and the facility with which the functions of the post-office department are carried on, are surprising. When I see and think of these things, I am half inclined to regret coming to this country, for fear that on my return home I may not love my native wilds as I did before. But whether this will be the ef- fect upon me I shall be able to judge better hereafter, when I sha.l have seen other parts of the kingdom. For two hours we have been flying like a blazing comet. We have passed over a rolling country, and found that there are some marshes, even here. The roads traverse in all directions, and are bordered with lovely cottages, through the casements of which we per- ceive now and then beautiful faces, looking at us as we pass. The road-sides are planted with shade trees, and our eyes are refreshed with the sight of orchards, giving sweet promise of refreshment to the body when their fruits shall have been gathered in. Much pains seems to be taken in the rearing of ornamental trees, and much 84 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIOXS. care bestowed in setting them out and making them sub- servient to art. Look at those deep valleys ! and the hills, how lofty and finely delineated ! How rich and luxuriant are the gardens that beautify their sides ! But you cannot see them at any great distance, for the atmosphere is hazy. The people are active in their various oc- cupations, which in the towns we pass are generally divided between gardening and some mechanical em- ployment. And this is England ! the land about which I have heard and read so much ! It is but a small island, and I remember that when I was a young lad, away in the forest, I often looked at the little spot it occupied on the map, (for geographies had found their way to us), and as I was told it was Great Britain, I inquired, and wondered as I asked, why such a diminutive place should be called " Great." I thought I might put it in my pocket, it looked so portable and insignificant. But now I find it large—not so large in extent of territory as some coun- tries, but large in point of population and the intelli- gence of the people. Among its inhabitants are some of the most distinguished teachers of the world— men who ^ EUllOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 85 live their lives in earnest, and who will live in their works for ages. In this country I see the heart of that commerce whose broad wings are spread over every country in the world. It was here the Anglo-Saxon Race was cradled ; here they were educated, and from this place they have gone forth ; distinguished wherever they have gone, for enter- prise, perseverance and intelligence. These are the qual- ities which characterize England, and will perpetuate its existence. Its power is concentrated in the intelligence and education of the people, and whatever adds to these will strengthen the bands that bind it, and consolidate the foundation of its government. But we are now within sight of a great city. The tall black chimneys of its manufactories first attract my notice ; then the lofty steeples of its churches ; its tower- ing, massive public edifices— all are in view. Stepping from the cars, I tread the streets of the great city of Birmingham. This is the head of manufactures. The steel which is here made will accomplish the double work of doirur good and doing evil— good in the way of subduing the wilderness and causing it to minister to the life of man, 86 EUIIOPKAN ODSEIIVATIONS. uud evil in the way oi' ik'stioyluf? life and niakiu}^ tlio earth desolate. Implements ol" husbandry, and the arts on the one hand, and swords, knives, rifles and muskets on the other. '>?•■':,: IIISTOKICAr. SKKTCU OF niRMlNOIIAM. " nirmin<,'hain, a lar<,^e commercial and manufacturing city, is situated in the north-east corner of Warwickshire. It is sevcniy-nine miles south-east Irom Liverpool, and the same distance north-east from liristol, both in a straij^ht line. As Rirmin<>:ham is nearly in the centre of Enjxland, its situation is elevated. The soil around it is lijjht, but has lately been nuich improved. The appear- ance of the city itself is mean ; most of the houses being small and of a common class, b't. Martins is the only building of great antiquity. Its exterior is rather meagre, having in IGDO been cased witii a covering of bricks to prevent it from falling. The spire alone remains in its original state, a graceful monument of olden architecture. The interior is grand and imposing, though disfigured by a coating of plaster and tawdry ornaments. St. Thilips church is an elegant building, and, in the opinion of many, forms the chief architectural ornament of the city. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 87 Besides th.se two, there are ten churches and chapels belonging to the Estabhshed Church, and forty-five Dis- senting Chapels, several of them elegant erections. Till lately, Birmingham possessed lew public buildings worthy o|- notice, but the citizens are adding to their number. The town-hall is a splendid edifice of Corinthian order, the material being of Anglesea marble. Its length is 1 G6 feet; breadth 104 feet; and height 83 feet. The Sa- loon, 110 feet long, 05 feet wide, and 05 foet high, con- tains one of the largest organs in Europe. The grammar- school is a splendid Gothic edifi.e, designed by Mr. Barry, and erected at an expense of £4000. The theatre, the . banks, the libraries. Society of Arts, &c., are worthy of notice. The Schools in Birmingham are numerous and flourishing. Among these may be mentioned the free grammar-school, founded and chartered by Edward VI. Its income derived from land is £300 per annum. The Blue-Coat School, and the Protestant Dissenters' Charity School are supported by subscriptions. There are several associations for moral and intellectual improvement, such tts a mechanics' institution, possessing a library of 1200 volumes, the Society of Arts and a philosophical institu- tion. The old library contains about 17,000 volumes. ;«''^??«?ft**Mffl5st?!*^ 7 88 EUROPEAN OBSEKVATIONS. and the new library 4000 volumes. The Savings Bank and provident institutions, and Societies are numerous and highly beneficial. There are also many charitable insti- tutions well supported. The Dispensary, Humane So- ciety, and Magdalen Institution merit great praiso. From a very early period Birmingham has been renown- ed for its manufactures in steel and iron. This trade is now carried on to an extent elsewhere unequalled. The principal branches of it are, plate and plated wares, or- namented steel goods, jewelery, japanery, papier mache, cut glass ornaments, steel-pens, buckles, and buttons, cast-iron ariicles, guns, steam engines, &c. Birmingham IS connected with London and various places by means of canals, and forms a centre of railway communication with every part of the kingdom. The railway from London to Birmingham, which was opened in 1837, is now amalgamated with the Grand Junction Line, the two forming the London and North Western Railway. Birmingham returns two members of Parliament. The population in 1831 was 110,914: including the suburbs 138,252. In 1841 it was 182,922." Having touched at Birmingham, I am still on my way li EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 89 to Lotulou — now rushing headlong into the base of a hill, where is nothing but darkness, smoke, and noise — now suddenly emerging into light, pleasantness, and joy — and now rushing madly onward as if the old proverb, " Cau- tion is the parent ol .safety," had been entirely forgotten. About 2 o'clock, I am in the suburb station of the great city of Loudon. The people swarm like bees, but there is comparatively no confusion among them. The hack drivers are endowed with a most persuasive elo- quence, but like certain other orators there is in what they say more sound than sense. To know where I should go I stood for a while, biting my lips, and leaning on one of the posts. Directly I took a " bee-line" to Mr. Jlandall's Hotel, in King Street, Cheap-side, where I have been told a great many Amer- icans stay. " What a sight of people !" as one of the New-Englanders would say. Oxford, Holborn and Cheap- side seemed to me literally crammed and sufTocating. Old houses, settled at the corners, but looking as if, had they ever been going to fall they would have tumbled long before. Antique and odd-looking edifices, smutty walls, and narrow, worn-out pavements, were among the first objects that presented themselves to my view. And ^, ^^^ \e waters rose higher and higher, untirthj tops of all the loftiest mountains were eompletely cov- ered. For weeks they floated everywhere, driven by fearful gusts of wind, and e..posed to the most terrific aefon of rain and hail. When this red man, Na-nah- boo.shoo, eaded out i„ despair to the Great Spirit and begged for suceor. Manitou heard him and put a stop to the great tempests. After some days the red man, not »eemg any appearances of land, sent a beaver to dive down in the waters and proenre him some of the earth from below, should any be found. The beaver went and after a considerable time had elapsed returned in a most exhausted condition, without being able ,o find the earth anddied almost as soon as ho had got upon the rati' Another was then sent, bnt it resulted in the same ill success, and he perished from exhaustion. At last a musk- rat was despatched upon the mission, and after a very long tm,e, insomuch that the red man thought he had per 132 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ; M III' ished, his little form was seen extended upon his back in the last gasps of life, holding up one of his small paws. He was eagerly rescued from the water and revived with care, when he opened his paw and disclosed that it con- tained a very small piece of the muddy bottom. This the red man dried carefully, and having reduced it to a powder held it in the palm of his hand, and offering it up with a prayer to Manitou, blew it to the four quarters of the watery waste. No sooner was this done than the tops of the mountains and the upper branches of their trees began to appear, and the M'aters rushed down through its thousands of subterraneous channels, and off the land to the sea, and the earth was left dry. From this red man and his wife the world was again re- peopled, but with the addition of two other colors, — the pale faces and the black men. From the rapidity with which the world was re-peopled they found i+. necessary to separate and so branched oiF, all over the world, to find homes. The red men kept to themselves and found in this country their proper residence. The Manitou, it seems, thought proper to allow some of the giants and huge animals to escape the effects of the flood. It was ascertained that some of them found shelter in the deep (ii. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. I33 cave, of that u™ whieh ,,,,,,, ,,„^„,^^^^_ ^^^ ^^.^^ they had so seoured that no Mater penetrated. Bein. friendly with the water-gods, they were preserved par- '-"y by their help and food supplied them. These creatures too beeamo numerous and harassed the red men, between whom long wars ensued. The mastodon and the b,g em destroyed the lives of many persons. A great herned serpent next appeared, who, by means of his P-onous breath, produeed diseases, and eaused the death «f-ny, but the Mani.ou killed him with thunderbolts. Another ealamity was a blazing star which fell in the mnlst of the red men and destroyed many people. This last event eaused them to separate and beeome distinct tnbes, who soon fell into disputes and wars amon. them- selves, which they pursued through a long period, until they utterly destroyed each other's nationality, and so re- duced their numbers that their lands were overrun by w,ld beasts. Those that were left went to a mountain ^vhere the Great Spirit preserved them. From the top ef th,s mountain they could behold the sun rise to see him Bet. They were told that it was heated in great fires he- lew and rose sparkling from them in the morning, cooled off throughout the day, and went down at night to be re- I ^m^ 134 EUROrEAN OBSERVATIOXS. 1 ( I i heated for the next day's use by the Great Manitou. They all spoke the same language then and resolved amongst themselves to preserve the chain of alliance in such a manner, that no time should be able to extinguish them as one people. They collected together in the West, and divided the country into districts, and these were al- lotted to Chiefs and Leaders, during the war with the prc-occupying natives, and their descendants are now the various nations of red men. No people in the world have ever, probably, so com- pletely mingled up their early history in fictions and allegories, types and symbols, as the red men of this con- tinent. Making but little difference between th sym- bolic and the hostorical, they have left very little distinc- tion to mark the true from the false. Our notions of a Deity, founded, apparently, upon some original truth, is so subtile, and divisible, and establish such a confused admixture of spirit and matter in every shape, that popu- lar belief seems to have entirely confounded the possible with the impossible, and the natural with the super- natural, " 'Tis a history Handed from ages down ; a nurse's tale, Which cluldi-eu, open-ey'd and mouth'd, devour ; !• !i I EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. And tt„,, a, g.„„„|„„, .^^^^^^^ ^ we learn it and believe." 185 Ao..o„ so far a, respecs cause and effect, takes the -.Je.t range, thtough tl„s agency of ,„„a or eviU„fl„. en s, by „en, beasts, devils, or gods. The red „an be- holU.ng.o„e things mysterious and wonderful, believe, a" are s.™lar, and without the means of navigating h^reason,>..atfancyWi,lonaw.,aseaof.a™ing ad dashing Pagination. He beholds a spirit in every phenomenon, and fears a wizard or witch in every en! J. H.s Wild behefinthemerea.es fears and alarms, and terror of the supernatural prompts him wherever ha Socs to resort to amulet and charm, however ridiculous in themselves, for preservation. A beast, or a bird, a man g°d. or devil, a stone. se,en, or a wi.ard, a wind' ->d. or ray oflight are so many causes of action' ^Watmg along the mysterious Chain connecting earth n..^es as ..were by telegraphic lines, along Which life : 'T"' "^' "' ""^ ■"-»' "o the reward or penaltyof h.s attention, or disregard. Wo were, so say the ancient traditions, long time a^o -s.dreadf„l,ya„n„yedhythe fearful visit of the Flyi,; I 136 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. heads. These heads were enveloped in a beard and hair flaminj? like fire ; they were of monstrous size, and shot through the air with the velocity of lightning. Human power was not adequate to cope with them. Our priests pronounced them an emanation of some mysterious influ- ence, and it remained with the priests alone, to exorcise them by their arts. Drum, rattle, and incantation, were considered of more avail than arrow or club. One evening, after they had been plagued a long time with this terriHc visitation, the Flying head came to the door of a lodge oc- cupied by a single female and her dog. She was sitting composedly before the fire roasting acorns, which, as they became done, she deliberately took from the fire and eat. Amazement seized the Flying head, who put out two huge black paws, from beneath his streaming beard. Supposing the woman to be eating live coals he with- drew, and from that time he came no more among them. The stonish Giants then invaded us. They were a power- ful tribe from the wilderness, tall, fierce, and hostile, and resistance to them was vain. They defeated and over- came an army which was sent out again.t them, and put the whole country in fear. These Giants were not only of prodigious strength, but they were cannibals, devour- EUROPEAN OliSERVATIOXS. I37 ing men, women, and children in their inroads. Our tradition tells us that these monsters eame from the east side of the Mississippi, that existing in forests withont habitations, they forgot the rules of humanity ; and be- gan at first to eat raw flesh, and next men. They prac- tised rolling themselves in the sand, and by this means their bodies were covered with hard ski.., so that our ar- rows only rattled against their tough hides, and fell harmless at their feet. Our ancestors fir.ding the, could "ot injure or dismay them fled and hid in caves and glens, and were entirely subdued by these fierce inva- ders for many winters (or years). At length the great Spirit visited his people, and finding them in such dis- tress He determined to grant them relief, and rid them entirely of these barbarous invaders. To accomplish this he put on the form of one of them, and brandishing a heavy club led them on under the pretence of finding the Mastodon. When they got near the resort of these huge animals, night coming on, he bid them lie down in a hollow, telling them that he would make the attack at daybreak. But at daybreak, he ascended a height, and overwhelmed them with a vast mass of rocks. OnJ only escaped, and he fled towards the north. The huge I 138 KL'HOI'KAN OnSKIlVATIONS. «"nu8 of the rf«t oi.r traditions tell „» aro to bo soon yi'l, as the frooil Spirit killed (heiu. The lu'liof ii, Witchoralt prevailed extensively ; its edects up„u iho red man's prosperity an.l population, ao- cordin^r to our traditions, were at limes appallinjr. The theory of tl... he lief was this. The witches and wizards constituted a secret association, and met at nijrht to pro- medifafe misehief, and were bound amonf? themselves to iuviolablo secrecy. They had power to turn themselves into foxes ..r wolves, and run swill, emitlin- lUishcs of lijiht. They could also transform themselves into a tur- key or hifr owl, and fly veiy last. If detected, or hotly pursued, they could chanrje themselves into a stone or rotten lo-. They sought carefully to procure the venom of snakes or poisonous roots to elFect their purposes. They could blow hairs or worms into a person. Once ui)ou a time, say our traditions, there lived a red man near a populous villajre, who in steppin- out of his lodge, to his great surprise, immediately sunk info the earth, and found himself in a large room, surrounded by three hun- dred witches and wizards, ^cxt morning he went to the council and told the chiefs of this extraordinary oc- currence. They asked him if he could identify the per- liViiOViUS OlISKIa-AT.O.NS. I39 «™»- He. „„ ho „„„,„. T.K.y „H.„ ,„.,.,„„„„„,^,„ , .^ :;;™"":"'""°''"'— "-'■". "i..u,,„„t ,.„ ';■'« "■'- '-k w„ .„ .„,„ „„, „,j. |^_.^^„,_^ ^^^^ The.ld„„,„„prevaWa,„„,„anther.d„™. And as ■«t.as,..,.,„„e,.a„a,„,a,„„,„.hoO.,eida,tw„re. '""':: '""''"' '"' ''■ T'-ir oxocu.i„„„ .a. .he notori- °r : """' "''° "^""■^'' '" "- -- °'- ".o palo ,ace, about .„„It„v„„.Uo„. He „„.„,,,a u. ,„.„„ aec„.di„, .„ a pnor decro. of the counoil, a„d struck thorn down w.th his tomahawk. Oue was kilied i„ the ,od,e, the Other near the lodge door. Wehav„a,reatah„„da„ceofstoriesi„r„ha,;on.„ atnes, or little hei„,s, so stuall as scarcely to he visihla .ut to sharp-seeiu, eyes. They dwell evetywhere. and flowers are presumed to shelter ,ar,„ parties of the™ in a ™u shower. The red n,an as he rec,i.,es under the ^l-le o, the forests, faueies they are ahout hi™ ; he de- ectsthetrtiuy voices in the i„seet.h„™, and with half. *sed eye he hehelds the.n spor.in, hy .Housands on a f H 140 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. sun-ray. In the evening they are seen and heard, and sometimes revel avi^ay the whole night. " And now they throng the moonlight glade, Above — below — on every side, Their little minim forms arrayed In all the tricksy pomp of fairy pride !" They are friendly or adverse to him, as he deserves they should be, and great care is taken by him not to of- fend them. Young Indian girls are often surprised by them and led to their beautiful abodes and shown the wonders of Fairy land. They overhear lovers or discon- solate ones, and aid them as was the case with the Oji- baw maid w lO loved the Moon. How many years ago tradition does not inform us, but contents itsrlf with handing down to us the fact that on the south-east end of lake Superior lived an old Sachem and his wife who had an only daughter, whose beauty was of so astonishing an order, that her fame spread all through the Indian na- tions, and many old chiefs sought her father's lodge to ob- tain the hand of his child for their sons. The young men came in numbers to woo her, but both the old men's petition, and young ones, solicitations were alike displeas- ing to the young Indian maid, who desired to live single and remain with her parents. Many were the rich 'ft f EUnOPEAN 0BSEEVATI0N3. I41 offer, and inducements made by the warrior, around ,0 obtain her. Some went on dangerous expeditions to gam a reputation that she would admire-but that pro- dueed no alteration in her mind-she was inflexible. Three of the finest young warriors of her people eon- te..ded for her, they first went off a war seout and brought her sealps. she heeded them not ; they then proeured her the most superb offerings of rich furs and feathe,^, it was useless, she would not even admire them. They then agreed to try their speed before her, if she would let the victor be her companion : she would net eonsent-they were hopeless. And soo. the report spread far and wide of her dangerous beauty, and the ^.de of the Lake upon which she resided, became an avo,ded spot, lest any of the young braves should see her, and lose their peace of mind forever in love, hope- less, hapless love ! During a whole winter, no one came near the lodge of her father : there she remained secluded with her parents, pondering over the heaps of treasure that a host of refused lovers had given her, and endeavoring to recall the best and finest-looking amongst them. A fairy who had watched this iaslidious (dir one cast a charm upon her, which immediately produced the' 142 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. Il contrary effect of her former indifference, and so powerful was it, that it seems she was to fall in love with the first object she should see outside of her father's lodge. And it being night, the first sight that she saw was the moon, which in consequence of the fairy's spell appeared to her as the face of a most enchanting young brave. Jiae sighed and going into the lodge shut the door, and went to rest, but could not sleep, she was so tormented by the love she bore the moon. Early the next morning she took a pail and went to a near spring for water, but for- got what she intended to do, and strolled on some dis- tance along the shores of the lake, lost in admiration of • the moon's face. It was the commencement of spring, and the snows had all melted away, leaving the young and tender grass and early flowers in its stead. The birds were about buildinL: their nests, and the air was full of sweetness and pleasant sounds. She looked sadly around her, and she saw that every living thing appeared to have a mate. The birds went two and two, the animals the same, and even the tiny delicate flowers appeared to grow up side by side in love and reMance upon each other. Lost in this meditative mood the day imperceptibly to her declined, and the full moon sprang EUEOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. I43 up. to which she turned her looks in desperate emotion of tenderness and love, as she gazed, it seemed to near her, and feeling that she was lifted up from the earth at the same time-she saw that she was hastening to her lover. However, let it be as it may, says the tradition, earth never held her more. And to this day as the Ojibwa braves and damsels behold the shadows upon the moon's faee. they imagine they perceive the outline of the fair young Indian maid and her pail. Our traditions inform us of a huge musquito which in- fasted the lake shores, and destroyed many people. This terrible creature Manitou destroyed, and from his body sprang the present insect of that name. His dimensions were so great that he darkened the country he was flying over. With tales and traditions of such a kind the Indian begmles the winter, and the circle around the lodge- fire receives a fresh charm from the horrors and wondlr- ful narrations of its inmates. These stories increase the estimation of home and its safety, for the strong dash of oriental predilection fbr the marvellous prevails even over the better judgment of the red man-he loves to hear of dangers, when he cannot find them to endure or I 144 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ^! dare. The spirit of wandering adventure and love of peril forms a striking feature in his own composition. " Their dangers and delights are near allies ; From the same stem the rose and prickle rise." The forest paths are full of fancy's pictures. Its avenues are enchanted passages, and the whole wood a magnifi- cently adorned palace wherein the red man's heart re- joices. The songs of its gaudy-colored birds are rare music, and the dash of a waterfall nature's accompani- ment to the general melody. Here his poetic mind re- ceives its impulses, which the solitudes of the deep woods seem to nurse and cherish. At early morn the dew- sprinkled leaves and flowers exhale delightful odors. At noon when all around is parched, cool breezes seem to assemble in the woods for shelter from the heat. At evening's pensive hour the musical notes of insects awaken, and the night-flowers pour out the fragrance of their incense — " Like sweet thoughts that come Wing'd from the maiden's fancy, and fly off In music to the skies, and then are lost; These ever-streaming odors seek the sun And fade in the light he scatters." It -vould fill folios to recount the many superstitions EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 14g in common report among the red men, many of whom to tins day truly believe the legends. In one of the small bays which indent Lake Superior a long time ago, said an old ehief "I have been told there was a small pond, or rather lake, whieh oceupied about some 600 yards of space, being „f ,„ „,,i f„^ About ,ts margin the wild animals frequented and hither many came to drink-its wa.e„ were sweet and whole- some, and the color of it was a deep blue. A great many attempts had been made to ascertain its depth, but so great had been the quantity of line used to no purpose, it ™s considered by us all as having no bottom. In times past there was an account of its I =ing the ab«le of a very ternfic and formidable creature, which had been repeat- edly by straggling hunters, and by one of these I was told about it. He states that being on a scout in search of buffalo, he chose to watch near this place presuming the buffalo would come here to drink about noon-he had h.d himself behind a small lump covered with thick bushes, through which he commanded a fair view of the pond. Sometime (after he had waited) he observed the surface of the pond very much agitated, and the water appeared to boil up in a perfect foam ; he became uneasy rw II Hill!: I I ; 146 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 3 ' to know the cause, and keeping his eyes fixed on the waters, he soon perceived the form of a huge beast rising from the centre of the lake, which swam towards the shore on the same side with himself In the meanwhile fear overpowered him, and he was unable to leave his hiding-place from its effects — he saw that this animal was ten times the size of a buffalo, although its head was shaped like that beast and had huge horns on it. Its body was very unwieldy, and its feet were like the bear, armed with monstrous claws. It passed him and rushed off into the woods, when he heard a great outcry of buffalo, some of whom passed his hiding-place in great terror and speed. He continued to watch for the great beast's re- turn, which after a brief space took place. The monster was bloody, and had half a buffalo in its mouth. It came and laid down on th", bank of the little lake and finished its meal of raw meat, then sunning itself for an hour, it plunged into the water and began to descend, causing the same agitation to ensue that had characterized its first coming. He saw the impress of the beast's shape on the bank, where it had reclined, and the marks its claws had made in tearing the buffalo. Others came ftnd saw it. And this is believed to refer to the animals' EUROPEAN" OBSKRVATIONS. I47 old bone, a, f„„„d in .he valleys of the Wert .ea.tered throughout the country. Ladies and ge„;Ieme„.-I have new only referred to these in an allegorieal manner, endeavoring .„ aranse you more than anything else. -The tales which my brothers in the Ameriean forest have preserved, and, like the story of the three black crows, every narrator clips, untjl It is as black as a real erow. I must cut my story short for two hours yet, to have the pleasure of seeing and hearing the famed Jenny Lind, and it is now nine o'clock. Thank you for your kind at- tention, ladies and gentlemen-with a bow. iil 11 I CHAPTER XIII. JENNY LIND. I WAS glad to get through with my lecture, whether my audience was or not. It delayed the pleasure which I anticipated in hearing Jenny Lind for the first time, and therefore I was glad to escape from the sound of my own voice. Whether any of my audience had any . ler motive in wishing me through, I cannot say. As to my proceedings after my escape from the lecture- room, and my impressions of the songstress, I cannot do better than to give them as expressed in a letter to B. T., of the New- York Tribune. Liverpool, August I6th, 1850. — I have just heard the identical and far-famed Jenny Lind ! An hour ago her voice filled the largest hall that I ever saw — the Philhar- monic — containing between four and six thousand people. So great has been the excitement here for these ten days, that everything for sale has Jenny to it. Jenny is EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. I49 in everything— the stores, the sales-rooms, and from the .pleudid halls to the cellar-all. all things are baptized with the all-potent name of the Swedish young squaw I " Last week it was said that all the seats had been en- gaged, and that even the standing stalls were selhng at a premium. Not thinking I should be here so long, I had not taken the precaution of previously procuring a ticket ; and finding I had to be here on the same evening she sang, yet otherwise engaged, I had to put myself against her singing with a lecture this evening. I had a full house, and immediately cut off my exercises in order to go to the hall to get in. Yes. to try to get in ! 0, presumption ; on what will I depend to get in ? was l query which had to be solved first. The people who crowded around me seemed to say that I could not, for they had heard that the house was all in a suffocation. Stepping into the carriage. I said. 'I will hear the far- famed Jenny Lind this very night— drive on.' "Going from the hall where I delivered an address to an infatuated people, I had little time to conclude in what way I had to get in. I had previously, during the day. sent a note saying that the Indian chief would. II 1 1 : j 150 EUROPE^iN OBSERVATIOXS. about nine o'clock, be at the door, and desired a seat if others had none, and the hour had already arrived. We drove up. The house was besieged with people. A sea of heads and shoulders ! Noise and confusion ! ' Who is here !' ' The Indian Chief desires to get ad- mittance,' was the word given by my Arion. ' Come in !' says the man at the gateway, to my astonishment— and as I was stepping out, two of my best friends in this city were by the door, who immediately took me by the hand, and led me by the seats on the aisle— up to the very next from the singers ! ! I could hardly credit I was in. The first song had already been sung, and there was an intermission, during which I had the pleasure of being shown all parts of the splendid Hall— and my dress excited as much attention as any one there, for Jenny Lind had not come out then. •' Soon the company of the society began to arrange themselves— and the people settled. One or two pieces were sung, and then came on the sight which my very black eyes were aching to see. The last sound of the chiming of an immense crowd subsided ; all eyes turned toward the door of the closet where she was, and so soon as the door opened, cheers, deafening cheers, filled the EUliOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 151 Hall ! clapping of hands ! waving of handkerchiefs by the ladies ail over the house ! yet still I was not moved. She bowed a most exquisite, modest bow !— Her dress quite plain, yet gracefully made. Her hair— no profu- sion of flowers, nor the wild extravagant torture of the hair. Her Ibrm is slender— a full chest— and a mouth like that of the Hon. Henry Clay. She glanced her blue eyes over the sea .of heads. Her eyes sparkled like stars glimmering in a cloudless sky. Her motions were easy and natural. She sang. Her very first notes thrilled through me. The immense house full of people were in agony at some of her touching notes. 0, what unearthly and heavenly music ! My soul, wrapt in ecstacy, seemed borne on to the Garden of Eden. I could appreciate the poet's words : " ' Her deep and thrilling song Seemed with its piercing melody to reach The soul, and in mysterious unison, Blend with all thoughts of gentleness and love.' "Her voice echoed all over the house. Then arose the maddening shout ; for a minute they cheered to get her back ! Sure enough she came, and sung over the same piece and then retired. I then could breathe freer, fw 152 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. () ' for I had been holdinpr my breath with intense interest while she sansr. •' A lady by my side sat motionless, like a statue, yet the tears sparkled as they wound their way on her cheek with her breast heaving with emotion. Another, and yet quite an aged gentleman, gazed with interest, the perspiration rolling down his face ; he turns to his lady and says : ' She sings like our poor Emma used to, be- fore she died.' Both wept. " Oh ! tell the poor classes all over the land, that this far-famed vocalist was once an obscure girl— yes, a poor girl. Let them imitate such examples, and be some- thing while they live. " Yours, truly, " KAH-GE-GA-GAH-BOWH." /. ■^'li^Mi^'iiSM^^isssesssaae ISO interest CHAPTER XIV. BAPTIST NOEL— TRAVELS TO COLOGNE. This evening I delivered another lecture before a good house; and at a quarter after nine o'clock I r^ave for London again, travelling all night. Here I leave my lady until I return from Germany. The night was tedious, and though I am capable of sleeping soundly in almost any situation, I awoke several times before getting to the London station. I have here to get myself ready, for on Monday I leave for Frankfort on the Main. I arrived in London about 4 o'clock, and felt about -, bad as I looked. Again I quartered myself in George street, Hanover square, where I saw several gentlemen from America, travelling and enjoying the strange sights of the Old World. A Mr. K., from New York, is the life of our company. He runs down the English and makes fimr 154 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. fun of their peculiarities, "just for greens," as we say in the west. Sabbath morning. This is a beautiful day, and the sky is very clear for England, for here we see the sun about once a week, and that only for a few minutes. The streets arc comparatively still, and the people are going to church. I lay out to go and hear the great and pious good man, the Rev. Baptist Noel, this evening, for I cannot be content with hearsay — I must go and hear for myself The night coming on, we repaired to an old Chapel in the north part of Oxford street. The building is very simple, no decorations, the seats or pews high-backed and plain, without cushions. The pulpit projects from the wall, in the old-fashioned style. The people began to come in, and soon the aisle and every part of the house was filled. I Avas seated about half-way up the aisle in a good seat, and in a favorable position to see and hear. The door of the vestiy opens, and forth he comes, and kneels down on the cushion at the Bible desk. Now we see him to advantage. His kneeling form incites to the same posture hi the observer, for it bespeaks the posture of the mind. The reader commences. 0, wretched ! u EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 155 Ke sings it out in a monotonous tone, varied only by a twang that serves to fix the attention, not to the reading, but to the manner of it. What is still worse and more absurd, he reads with an air, as though he were delight- ed with his performance. The genuine singing is then gone through with, and at the close the Reverend man prays. Stillness reigns throughout the house. I never felt before how a man could talk with God !~so fervent, so humble, so simple— such saint-like simplicity ! His trembling and faltering voice vibrates along the galleries with a heavenly sweetness that seemed to dissolve into the whispering of angels. The cause of humanity escapes not his prayer. He calls down blessings upon his audi- ence. Individuals, even, are held up one by one, and the tender language of love and sympathy falls from his lips, and springs in an overflowing fountain from his eyes, and rolls in drops along his earnest face. I loved the man before, but I love him better now. I love all things which discover the better nature in man, which stir the depths of sympathy, and which give evi- dence of the living soul that was breathed into man at the creation. 0, could men have more of this and less of self, I would be willing to spend an eternity of years rm. ! ii I ill If f!:!il! '■ Ij ^iii Ii 1 if 1'!!' 1 i 1 ii If n M ! ■ >'!; i ' ■;! I ■ > ■■* -■ ' 1! 1 it' , i 'i ' 1 156 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. in this world. But self-love rnake^ a hell for mankind, and with this they torment each other. Having ended his prayer, the pastor rose and read, and it was the sense you listened to as well as the language and manner. He is tall, leans forward a little — his face is neither full nor lean, the forehead is well developed, his arms are long ; and as to his eloquence, when he had spoken ahout twenty minutes, I said to myself, " Can this be Baptist Noel ?" for, for plainness I never did hear any one to equal him ! A child might easily understand him. A man of ordinary capacity might preach as good a ser- mon, if not better, so far as talent is concerned. What then is the peculiarity of this man's discourse which dis- tinguishes him ? It is simplicity, fervor and love. There are here, no flights of oratory, no distortion of counte- nance, no awkward display of ungraceful arms. His discourse was long, yet none moved from their seats. The audience followed him from beginning to end. After presenting the sweetness and holy character of our Lord, he turns to the sinner with a look that I never shall forget. " This is the Saviour whom you de- spise." So much of deep compassion his face reveals that the ■ mankind, read, and J language I — his face developed, en he had " Can this I hear any stand him. ood a ser- 1. What which dis- e. There af counte- i:om their finning to character lok that I n you de- s tliat the EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 157 people partook of his feelings, yet could not respo.id. The audience could but weep. In the interval following that sentence I thought angels could have looked down with wonder and admiration, yea. with tenderness and sympa- thy. On he goes, in still sweeter strains, praising and glori- fying his Redeemer, and expressing his solicitude for the eternal welfare of the vast assemblage. As he closed his long and faithful sermon he offered a prayer, to which I could respond with a swelling heart, Amen. The breathless stillness is broken. The clerk again makes his rehearsal, a sound of unintelligible words. I was requested to see him in the vestry, and assenting gladly, there found him the same warm-hearted, earnest preacher. We bid him adieu. As I stepped out my thoughts recurred to men of renew., whom I have seen. Men who in the world's estimation are esteemed " greai." But I had just seen a greater than they. I felt like a child, and would have wept, an hour, yea, a day, to have tar- ried with him. 1 .ay have the pleasure of enjoying an eternity with li^rn. I riw i "■'■ II ,i ; 158 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. This is the man who lately caused no small sensation in the Established Church by his arguments in favor of baptism by immersion. I find in conversation with Episcopalians that many of them still esteem him very highly for his benevolence of heart and his true piety. Weary and tired I lay me down, desirous of gaining some rest, as to-morrow I must leave with the delegation from liondon for Frankfort-on-the-Main. This morning (August 19th) we have beautiful weath- er, and the prospect of a very fine day. Having seen a few friends^ I now leave. It will take one hour to pick out my hazardous way amid omnibuses, hacks, stages and go-carts. I need not speak of the disappointment experienced so often by pedestrians in the great city of London. Those who have been there will at once chide me for allotting so short a time as one hour for my undertaking. Here I am with my trunk and carriage blockaded by any number of drays, 'busses and so forth, et cetera, com- pletely pent in, as a ship by icebergs, with no chance to go this side or that, on or back. Hark I how the pugnacious drivers talk I they swear like troopers, though I never hectrd troopers swear, yet I i EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 159 sensation 1 favor of ion with him very piety, if gaining' lelegation ul weath- will take mnibuses, ienced so I. Those ' allotting ikaded by ;era, com- chance to icy swear car, yet I I I know they couldn't do it worse. And while I am wait- ing they are swearing over their horses' backs. My watch says IV. yet I'm not in sight of the bridge. " Driver, go on, do propel, and you shall have 2s.6d. more. Do get to the station before the train leaves." My friend Dr. Francis of New York sometimes styled me a P r, but here it tried my patience and good temper very severely. " Is the train gone ?" "No, they are soon going — bless them." " Are you going to Frankfort ?" " Yes, sir." " Let me see your card." FRANKFORT ON THE MAINE. No. 227. [vignette.] DELEGATE GLOEY TO GOD IN THE HIGHEST; ON EARTH IPIiA(DIgo Departure from London Bridge Station, Mondny, Aug. 19ih, at 4 in the afternoon. Sittings of Congress, Aug. 22, 224.3, DepiirUire from Frankfort on return on the morning of Thursday, Aug. 29. WILLIAM STOKES, Secretary. REV. GEO. COPWAY. 160 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. " Pass in." " Hurry, hurry, my man." I have my seat safe ; my trunk also, and about me is a set of jovial, hearty English- men with a sprinkling of lean Yankees. At quarter-past four our conductor whistles, and at the signal more than sixteen cars are urawn uut, all crowded full, for there are over five hundred in the company, though a great many have gone - n in previous trains, and will meet us in Frankfort. The scenery along the railway is very beautiful, roll- ing hills dotted with trees, and valleys filled with har- vesting, farms well cultivated, trees and shrubbery grow- ing, and industrious people working. But as we pass everybody looks at our train, wondering. Dover — the place of our embarkation. We have been running through deep tunnels, going, really, by faith and not by sight. We are now stepping on board a swift steamer, for Calais. The light-house is in view. The wind blows fierce, the waves rise high, and the channel is in a foam. Be- neath the beautiful rays of the moon how brightly the waters glisten. And how our boat plunges amid the waves. It begins to toss about, The ladies begin to lie U iiiii • EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 161 down. It matters not where, for Old Neptune is giving them a shake, so the floor is better than no place. Sea-sickness I awful pleasure ! What an internal improvement is progressing. It seems as though the committee of interior had ordered a search ibr smuggled goods, fearing that from England we might carry over some hardware in our stomachs, to France, and neglect to pay duty. The saloon is packed with prostrate passengers. Some sick, very sick, and angry with the Captain because he will not stop and let them get out ! Gentlemen stand on the deck, doing all they can to keep themselves down, and their meals, ditto. We who are well, cannot but smile at the very ludi- crous figure which some make, but the pitiful looks of ladies, and the desponding looks of gentlemen, seem to say, " We don't see anything to laugh at." A few moments pass, and we are in the harbor of Calais, just before us is the first of Brother Crapeau's land. A beautiful station is it, and just at the river's side. Now, it is French, French, French. Nothing but French. Nothing than French. Nothing except French. Here we are taking la coffee. i I 18, i 162 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. The people here seem to have made calculations as to how much money they would make by us ; no very small sum neither. Exchange Oflicer is here, and those who have a delegation ticket, are alloNved to pass their bag- gage over without much trouble A little after eleven o'clock, at night. We are now ready, and our conductor blows a blast of his horn, which has the same signification as the " whistle" of the Eng- hshman, and the "all aboard" of the Yankee. But here, before I leave Calais, 1 will give you some historical reminiscences of the place. " Calais has 10,000 inhabitants ; it is a fortress of the 2d class, situated in a most barren and unpicturesque district, with sandhills raised by the wind and the sea on the one side, and morasses on the other, contributing con- siderably to its military strength, but by no means to the beauty of its position. An English traveller of the time of James I., described it as 'a beggarly, extorting town ; monstrous dear and sluttish.' In the opinion of many, tliis description holds good down to the present time. Except to an Englishman setting his foot for the first time on the Continent, to whom everything is novel, Calais has little that is remarkable to show. After an EUROPEAN OBSERVATIOXS. 163 hour or two it becomes tiresome, and a traveller will do well to quit it as soon as he has cleared his baggage from the custom-house, and procured the signature of the pohce to his passport, which, if he be pressed for time, will be done almost at any hour of the day or night, so as not to delay his departure. It is necessary to be aware of this, as the commissionaires of the hotels will sometimes en- deavor to detain a stranger, under pretence of not beino- able to get his passport signed. Travellers landing at a French port, and not intendin.'i it was once famous. It has, besides, numerous other important manufactures ; and its trade and commercial prosperity are much pro- 3 ancient and the de Berri : the in- Tiarkably r of very •y capital athcrine ; can with the birds, listrict. tolerable interested as is visi ; possesses the room ;e famous, ifactures ; much prn- ECROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. I71 motcd by the two navigable canals which .rave:,e the town. The cultivation of beet-root for sugar is carried on to a great extent in the country round Lille. Outside the Paris gate are nearly 200 wi„j„nll, pH„ei. pally used for grinding rapeseed. There are not so many curiosities in this tow« as to pay any man for seeing a„d visiting. The streets are old- fash,oned and houses ancient. Mud .walls falling in pieces —signs of houses very prominent. At a little after 10, we are here in Ghent, celebrated for us many curiosities and ancient buildings. No town seems to possess that claim of attention as this does. But w cannot even go up to the streets to see it, for we s,,,y but 10 minutes. There are in sight, many public build- .ngs. The curious roofed and gabled houses, high, paint- e^ roofs, ,-.. curious devices around them strike my eye The grass >, literally covered with drapery g„„ds and cottons, bleaching. L'>"^«re we came to it did we see its steeples. Be- ^"ff a I ^ „,orning. the sky i^ fine, and the atmosphere Our company is gathering, and we will soon be on our way again. This city is associated with many s.rrin^ ,5" r 172 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ! ! ill, : I iij events. To Americans more than any city in this king- dom. The following are a few of the historical associations connected with this city. Ghent lies upon the rivers Scheldt and Lys, whose nu- merous branches, traversing the town, form canals in all directions: it has about 92,000 inhabitants. In the time of Charles V. this was, perhaps, the largest and most populous city of Europe. It contained 35,000 houses, and 175,000 inhabitants ; and that emperor used spor- tively to say that he could put all Paris into his glove (gant). The circumference of its walls at the present day .X...UL- as between 7 and 8 miles. In ihe 10th cen- tury ^■' s the capital of Flanders, but in process of time the turbulent weavers, among whom a spirit of indepen- dence had early begun to work, rose up against their feudal superiors, and threw off their yoke, or obtained from them concessions and immunities which formed the origin of popular rights in Europe. At length its burghers became so bold and warlike, that they were able to re- pulse from their walls 21,000 English, commanded by Edward I., in 1297 ; vnd r^/aibuted to beat the elite of the French chivalry at Courtray, in the "Battle of isociations f, M EUROPEAN OBSERVATIOXS. 173 Spurs.' Their allegiance both to the counts of Flanders and dukes of Burgiuidy, seems to have been little more than nominal ; since, whenever these seigneurs attempted to impose a tax which was unpopular, the great bell sounded the alarm, the citizens flew to arms, and slew or expelled from the town the officers appointed by- their sovereign. It did not take long to equip an armament of burghers and artisans, who had weapons always at hand, and who repaired to the scene of action in their every-day or working dress, only distinguished by a badge, such as a white sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. Thus it happened that popular tumults were as frequent in the 14th and 15th centuries in Ghent as they have been at Paris in the 19th, and rather more difficult to quell. On the other hand, it not unfrequontly happened, that the seigneur, aroused by some act of atrocity or in- subordination, collected his forces together and took signal and terrible vengeance. These courageous but undisci- plined citizens then atoned for their audacity on the field of battle, being mowed down in thousands. Afterwards came the season of retribution and humiliation for the town : enormous subsidies were levied on it ; its dearest privileges were confiscated ; and its most honored citizens IJ 174 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. f 'ii'i Ml ' and magistrates were condemned to march out of the gates in their skirts, with halters round their necks, and to kiss the dust before the feet of their imperious lord and conqueror. The city of Ghent was several times forced to make such an abject and ludicrous act of submission. The immediate cause of its decline and ruin may be traced to this spirit of revolt. " Intoxicated with the extent of their riches, and the fulness of their freedom," the citizens engaged in a contest with their sovereign, Philip the Good. It is no little proof of their vast re- sources that they were able to maintain it from 1448 to 1453 ; but in the end they were compelled to submit, with abject humiliation, heavy fines, and loss of trade. In 1400 the city of Ghent is said to have contained 80,000 men capable of bearing arms. The number of weavers then amounted to 40,000 ; and they alone could furnish 18,000 fighting men out of their corporation. A custom derived from that period still exists in the town : — A bell was rung at morning, noon, and evening, to sum- mon the weavers to their work and meals ; while it toll- ed, the drawbridges over the canals could not be raised for the passage of vessels ; and other persons were even enjoined not to go out into the streets, for fear of inter- EUROPE AX OBSERVATIONS. 175 rupting the vast stream of population ; while children were carefully kept within doors, lest they should be trod- den mider foot by the passing multitude. Though fallen from its high estate, and sunk both in population and extent of manufacture below what it was in the proud days of Burgundian rule, it does not display the same signs of decay and listlessness as Bruges : it is still the Belgic Manchester. In 1804, while united to France, it was ranked by Napoleon as the third manu- facturing town in his dominions, after Lyons and Rouen. The revolution of 1830, however, has inflicted another vital blow on its prosperity ; and there are now many workmen out of employ. Several considerable manufac- tures are carried on here, especially that of cotton. In 1801, a clever Fleming, named Lieven Bauens, brought over from Manchester English workmen and spinning- jennies. The manufacture quickly took root, so as to employ in a few years more than 30,000 workmen. Sixty steam-engines were employed, not long ago, in the town and neighborhood to set in motion the machinery of the various cotton mills. But since the Revolution many have ceased to work, and several proprietors have removed their establishments to Holland. 176 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ■>i The picturesqueness of the houses of G heat, the fantas- tic variety of gable etuis rising stepwise, or ornamented with scrolls and carving, arrest the stranger's eye at every turn." No country that ever I visited possesses such sameness as this. Nothing seems to be anywhere, which could give it the contrast. All alike, the land is cultivated. The group of willows, and rows of poplar trees, are the prin- cipal objects which are seen along the flat road. Some places the farms are so immersed in water that they appear more like lakes skirted with wood. Women are useful here. They are up to the knees in mud, digging up or fishing up their potatoes — fine fields of this useful article of food are now covered with water. They appear to be devoid of curiosity, for when our trains are passing, they do not even Icok to see the train as it whizzes by them. Working away without any interruption. Tobacco is grown here for each farm, as one corner of it may be seen growing. The road is very dusty. We soon will get to the fron- tier of Belgium. The next place of note we come to is Liege. Jt is situated where, around it are mountains the first of the EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 177 kind we saw. The scenery is fine around it, being down somewhat in a valley. The following are some of its his- torical associations : " Liege lies at the junction of the Ourthe with the Mouse ; it has 58,500 inhabitants, and differs from most other Belgian towns, inasmuch as it at least appears to be thriving. The clouds of smoke usually seen from a distance hanging over it, proclaim the manufacturing city, the Birmingham of the Low Countries ; and the dirty houses, murky atmosphere, and coal-stained streets, are the natural consequence of the branch of industry in which its inhabitants are engaged. " The staple manu- factory is that of fire-arms ; Liege is, in fact, one great armory, and produces a better article, it is said, at a low price, than can be made for the same sum in England. The saddlery is also very good here, and a particular kind of coarse cloth is manufactured in large quantities. There is a Royal Cannon Foundry here, and Mr. Cockerill manufactures spinning machinery and steam-engines to rival the English. The cause of this commercial pros- perity is, as iniglit be conjectured, the presence of coal in great abundance close at hand. The mines arc worked upon the most scientific principles : some of them are 8# 4 ' ^ it 'A ? !!ti Wi «! 1 1 178 EUROPEAN OBSEliVATIONS. situated so near to the town that their galleries are car- ried under the streets, so that many of the houses, and even the bed of the river, are in some places undermined. Previous to the Eevolutidn, Holland was supplied with coal from Belgium ; but the home consumption has since increased to such an exient, from the numerous manu- factories which have sprung up on all sides, that the Bel- gian mines are now inadequate to suj ily the demand, and a law has been passed permitting the importation of coals from Newcastle. The buildings best worth notice in Liege are, the Church of St. Jaques and the interior court of the Palais de Justice, formerly palace of the Prince Bishop, built by the Cardinal Bishop Erard de la Marck, 1533. The stunted pillars of the colonnade which surrounds it bear a resemblance to those of the ducal palace at Venice, and have a striking efFect with much the same character as those found in works of Moorish architecture. Each pillar is carved with a ditlerent pattern. A visit to Liege, and the mention of the Bishop and his palace, are likely to call to the mind of an English- man the vivid scenes and descriptions of Q,uentin Dur- ward. He will, however, in vain endeavor to identify EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 179 many of the places there spoken of, with the spot. The Bisliop's " Castle of Schoiiwaldt, situated about 10 miles from the town," cannot be Seraing, as it was not built till a much later period. Sir Walter Scott never visited Liege himself, so that his localities arc purely imaginary ; yet, from the vividness of his description of the town, and the perfect consistency of all his topographical details, few readers would doubt that he was personally ac- quainted with it. He has also made a slight variation in the romance from the real facts of history as fa. as re- lates to Liege : and as the events on which he founded the novel are of the highest interest, and serve to illus- trate the story of this ancient " Imperial free city," it may not be amiss shortly to relate them. The citizens of Liege, puffed up, as Philip de Commines says, by pride and riches, gave constant proofs of their boldness and in- dependence by acts of insubordination, and even of open rebellion against their liege Lord, Charles the Bold of Burgundy, and against th: ishops who were his allies or supported by him. He had inflicted severe chastisement upon the Liegois after his victory at St. Trend (when many thousands were left dead on the field), by abridging their privileges and taking away their banners ; and when ij A/. O.. \t IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ / O 'P 4^s % fe «' f/i 7- 1.0 I.I 1.25 Mi Ui IM 1.8 U ill 1.6 v] •^ /a ^h "e* %^ ^ ■c). ^m .^1^ .>1* > ^ /;^ ¥/ opm Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i\ iV :\ \ ^\^ M ■^ ? ^ ^. w. fe C/j 180 *j EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. they submissively brought him the keys of the town, he refused to enter by the gates, but compelled them to bat- ter down the city wall for a distance of 20 fathoms, and fill up the ditch. He then entered by the breach, with his visor down, his lance in rest, at the head of his armed bands, as a conqueror ; and further, to disable the bold burghers from mutiny, ordered all their fortifications to be demolished. This punishment was inflicted in 1467, but it was so little regarded, that the very next year they again broke out into open revolt, at the instigation of se- cret emissaries of Louis XL, seized upon the person of their bishop in his castle at Tongres, and brought him prisoner to Lioge. They were headed by one John de Vilde, or Ville, called by the French Le Sauvage : it is not improbable that he was an Englishman, whose real name was Wild, and that he was one of those lawless soldiers who at that time served wherever they got best paid, changing sides whenever it suited them." Immediately after we left the frontier of Prussia in Belgium, we came to the Rhenish Prussia ; and we have just stopped 10 minutes in Aix-la-Chapelle. This EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 181 to me is a very interesting place on account of its many historical reminiscences. " Aixla-Chapelle, a town of 37,800 inhabitants, was known to the Romans under the name of Aquis Grani. The warm springs were a sufficient inducement to fix that bath-loving people on the spot, and remains of their baths are constantly found in digging. It is to Charle- magne, however, that the city owed its eminence. He was born here, as some conjecture, and without doubt died here, 8I4. He raised it to the rank of second city in his Empire, and made it capital of his dominions N. of th.3 Alps, appointing it the place of coronation for the German Emperors his successors. In the middle ages it flourished with the privileges of a Free Imperial City, and attained great eminence in its manufactures, especially in that of cloth, for which it is celebrated, even to the present day. In later times it has been distinguished by the Con- gresses held here— 1. In 1668, when a treaty of peace was concluded between France and Spain ;— 2. In 1748, when a general peace was signed by the sovereigns of Europe ; and— 3. In 1818, at which the Emperors of Austria and Russia, and the King of Prussia, were pros- 182 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ent ill person, and Ambassadors were sent from George IV. and Louis XVIII. to decide on the evacuation of France by the Anied armies. After the peace of Paris, Aix was separated from France, to which it had been united by Napoleon, and added to the dominions of the King of Prussia. By the handsome new streets and fine buildings erected since that event, as well as by the increase of population, it appears to be returning to its ancient prosperity. Since the days of the Romans and Charlemagne, it has been celebrated as a watering-place, and is annually frequent- ed by many thousand visitors. The Hotel de Ville (llathhaus), in thu great market- place, is a vast and somewhat imposing building. Strang- ers generally become acquainted with it when they re- pair thither to have their passports signed in the Police Office, situated in the right wing, near a small tower, said erroneously to be of Roman origin, and called the Tower of Granus. The Rathhaus occupies the site of the palace in which Charlemagne was born ; it is re- markable as the place of meeting of the two Congresses of 1718 and 1818. In the grand saloon on the second floor, where the conferences are held, are shown some EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 183 bad pictures of the members of the congress collectively, and some equally bad portraits of the ministers and sove. reigns who assisted at them ; among them, that of Lord Sandwich, the English minister, is conspicuous. The smaller room on. the same floor was occupied by Sir Thomas Lawrence as a painting-room in 1818, while painting the portraits of the sovereigns and other emi- nent persons thori assembled, for the gallery at Windsor. In the centre of the square is a fountain, surmounted by the bronze statue of the Emperor Charlemagne. It appears to have been erected at the same time as tho Rathhaus, in 1353, The position of the Tomb, in which once reposed the mortal remains of Charlemagne, is marked by a large slab of marble under the centre of the dome, inscribed with the words, " Carolo Magno." A massive brazen chandelier hangs above it, the gift of the Emperor Fred- erick Barbarossa. The vault below is now empty, having been opened by the Emperor Otho in 997. He found the body of Charlemagne not reclining in his coffin, as is the usual fashion of the dead, but seated in his throne as one alive, clothed in the imperial robes, bearing the scep- tre in his hand, and on his knees a copy of the Gospels. 184 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. On his flcshless brow was the crown, the imperial man- tle covered his shoulders, the sword Joyeuse was by his side, and the pilgrim's pouch, which he had borne al- ways while living, was still fastened to his girdle. All thcfae venerable relics were removed, and used in the cor- onation ceremonies of succeeding Emperors of Germany. They are now deposited at Vienna. The throne, in which the body of Charlemagne was seated, alone re- mains ; it is placed in the gallery running round the oc- tagon, facing the choir. It is an arm-chair, in shape somewhat like that of Edward the Confessor, in West- minster Abbey, but made of slabs of white marble, which, during the coronation, were covered with plates of gold. It is protected by wooden boards, which the sacristan will remove to satisfy a stranger's curiosity. The front of the gallery was originally adorned with 32 pillars of granite and porphyry, brought by Charlemagne from the Ex- arch's Palace at Ravenna, and partly from the East : these were somewhat wantonly removed by the French, and as only a part of them have been returned from Paris, they have not been replaced. In front of some of the side chapels may be seen small models in coarse wax, of arms, legs, and other parts of the human body, hung up EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 185 as votive offerings by poor people, who believe that mala- dies in their limbs have been cured by the interposition of the Saint to whose altars they dedicate these gifts. In the side chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, stands an an- tique sarcophagus of Parian marble, the work of Roman or Greek artists, ornamented with a fine bas-relief of the Rape of Proserpine : the feet of the dead Charlemagne originally rested in it, within his tomb." And here are some of the Reliques of an ancient order and date, to believe in all which a man must have an iron stomach to digest the tough with the soft. " The Grandes Reliques are publicly shown to the people only once in 7 years, from the 15th to the 27th of July. So sacred was this ceremony held, and so hi/rh was the privilege esteemed of obtaining a glimpse of them, that in former times no fewer than 150,000 pilgrims resorted to the spot from all parts on this occasion ; and even so lately as in 1839, the last aniversary, the number of pious visitors exceeded 60,000. These relics were pre- sented to Charlemagne by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and by Aaron king of Persia. They are deposited in a rich shrine of silver gilt, the work of artists of the 9th century, and consist of— 1. The robe worn by the Vir- 186 EUROPE.VN OBSERVATIONS. ■ giti at the Nativity ; it is of cotton, 5 feet long. — 2. The swaddling-clothes on which Jesus was wrapped ; they are of cloth, as coarse as sacking, of a yellow color. — 3. The cloth on which the head of John the Baptist was laid. — 4. The scarf worn by our Saviour at the Cruci- fixion, bearing stains of blood. Intermixed with these religious reliques are many curious antique gems, some Babylonian cylinders, and tlie like, which serve as jewels to ornament the saintly treasury. The fee for seeing all these wonders amounts to about 10s. English." Here for the first time the people recognized me as be- ing the Indian from America. They came and stood in groups just by, and watched me as I paced the platform of the station. As we now leave for Cologne I am so tired and sleepy I shall treat myself with a short rest for my eyes — and awake a few miles from Cologne. Having arrived. Here is a crowd, and while I was looking after myself, I heard some one naming me by name, and from the crowd of Germans too. On looking up I saw James Buchanan Read of Philadelphia, the Painter Poet. And stretching his long arm he pulled me to him, and soon introduced me to another Poet, Charles EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 187 Close, the cotemporary of Mr. Frielegarth, the Poet. I received a message of apologies for his inability of seeing me. But I am at home, for here is a young Amer- ican, tall and lean as a staff-post. I wandered about with them by moonlight, and gazed with wonder on the curiosities of the place. This is a noted place. I will give a short notice of it gathered from the items of my travels. •' Cologne is a fortified town of 65,000 inhabitants, on the left bank of the Rhine, connected by a bridge of boats with the fortress and suburb of Deutz, which has 3700 inhabitants. It is the largest and wealthiest city on the Rhine, and has recently been made a free port. Cologne owes its existence to a camp pitched here, by the Romans, under Marcus Agrippa, which was after- wards enlarged and rendered permanent by the removal (under Tiberius) of a native tribe, called the Ubii, from the right bank of the Rhine, an event njpntioned by Tacitus (Ann. I. 3G), and by their settlement on the left bank, at the spot now occupied by Cologne. This first city was called Civitas Ubiorum. More than 80 years after, Agrippina, mother of Nero, and wife of Claudius, 188 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ■ who was herself born here, sent hither a colony of Ro- man veterans, and gave to it her own name, calling it Colonia Agrippina. A part Only of its ancient appella- tion is retained in the modern name of Cologne. !n the middle ages, from its wealth, power, and ihe considerable ecclcciastical foundations of its bishops, it was often called the Rome of the North. The object which first claims attention here is the Cathedral (Dom Kirche), which, though begun in 1218, during the reign of the Elector and Archbishop of Co- logne, Conrad of Hochstedten, has remained up to the present time in a condition between a fragment and a ruin. Had the original plan been completed, (views of the intended edifice are to be procured,) it would have been the St. Peter's of Gothic architecture. Even in. its present state, it is one of the finest Gothic monuments in Europe. It is to be regretted that the name of the architect who commenced and planned it, is not with certainty aso^rtained ; as he deserved to be recorded, who conceived so splendid a structure. The two principal towers, according to the original designs, were to have been raised to the height of 500 feet. That which is most finished at present is not above one third of the EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 189 height. Oa its top still remains the crane employed by the masons to raise the stones for the building. And it has stood for centuries. It was onco taken down, but a tremendous thunder-storm, which oc arred soon after, wag attributed to its removal by the superstitious citizens, and it was therefore instantly replaced, or a similar one set up in its stead. It is well that it should remain, as it looks as though the present generation had not entirely abandoned the notion of resuming and completing the structure. The King of Prussia, whose taste for the arts, and zeal for the preservation of ancient edifices, is equal to his liberality, has for many years past expended a considera- ble sum upon it : this, however, has been employed not in advancing the edifice, but in repairing dilapidations, and preserving what is built, from the ruin into which it threatened to fall owing to previous neglect. The resto- ration? and repairs are conducted in a masterly and most workmanlike manner ; the faulty stone of the Drachen- fels has been replaced by another of a sounder texture ; and the new sculpture and masonry are at least equal to those displayed in the original edifice, while, as mechani- cal science has made vast strides since the building was 11 100 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. founded, it is evident that money alone is wanting to complete it. It is well worth while to ascend the scaf- folding, both to view closely the details of the restora- tions, and to enjoy the view. The entire length of the body of the church is 400 ft., and its breadth IGl. In a small chapel immediately behind the high altar is ^he celebrat'^d Shrine of the Three Kings of Colog >e, or Magi, who came from the East with presents for the infant Saviour. Their bones were obtained from Milan by the Emperor Frederic Barbarosrsa, when he took that city by storm, and were presented by him to the then bishop of Cologne, who had accompanied him on his warlike expedition. The case or coffin in which they are deposited is of solid silver gilt, and curiously wrought, surrounded by small arcades, supported on inlaid pillars, and by figures of the Apostles and Prophets. The vast treasures which once decorated it, were sadly diminished at the time of the French revolu- tion, when the shrine and its contents were transported for safety by the Chapter, to Arnsberg, in Westphalia. Many of the jewels were sold to maintain the persons who ccompanied it, and have been replaced by paste or EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 191 giass imitations; but the precious stones, the gcmj, cameos, and rich enamels which still remain, will give a fair notion of its riches and magnificence in its original state, while those among them of Babylonish origin, visi- ble here as at Aix, afford wide scope for curious inquiry. The skullrf of the three kings, inscribed with their n^mo^—Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazer—wniien in rubies, are exhibited to view through an opening in the eli.ine, crowned with diadems (a ghastly contrast), which were of gold, and studded -.'ith real jewels, but are now only silver gilt. Among the antiques still re- maining are two, of Leda, and Cupid and Psyche, highly beautiful, but singularly inappropriate to their present position. Those who show the tomb assert that its treasures are still worth six millions of francs= 240,000^. ; this is an exaggeration, no doubt. This shrine is opened to the public gaze on Sundays and festivals ; but those who desire to see it at other times, or to have a nearer and more minute view of it, must apply to the sacristan, and pay a fp^ reduced from 2 thalers to 1 th. 16 S. gr. (=6 fr.), which admits a party." 192 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS . Here one might remain a week or more and not get to the end of those curiosities which it does pay a man for viewing We leave it for the present. I- « 1 f> I fi mm mm CHAPTER Xy. THE HHINE. The fatigues of yesterday rest heavily upon my eye- lids, and it is with difficulty that I raise them, this morning. My friend J. B. R. is still a slave of Morpheus, yet his arms are partly free and he shook hands with me. It is the 21st of August. Daylight was long since ahout me. The hoat on which I am a passenger is a long, narrow affair, with no covering of any account, and is quite full if rot more. Just below us is the re- nowned " Bridge of Boats." An army of boats, side by side, extending from one side of the river to the other, and aflbrding passage for pedestrians, coaches and carts. Now we are oft: Ah, here is a man whom I met in Illinois in '37. The Rev. Mr. Jacobus a German gentle- man. I find he does not recognize me, but upon nearer approach he greets me as an old acquaintance. 9 194 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 11 Having met a gentleman so replete with intelligence, I must not fail to obtain liiin as an interpreter. He nar- rates to me his adventures, which interest me very much. From Cologne for many miles the country is flat, vni the scenery very monotonous. The first considerable town we reach is Bonn, cele- brated for its university, library, and being the place where it is said Beethoven lived. An ancient-looking place it is too. The sketches of history and descriptions given to my readers — that they may judge of it, for themselves. " Bonn, a town of 12,000 inhabitants, on the left bank of the Rhine, is chiefly remarkable for its University, es- tablished by the King of Prussia, in 1818, which has al- ready attained a high reputation on the Continent, owing to the improved discipline maintained among the students, and to the discernment exercised by the govern- ment in the appointment of professors. Among those who have already filled chairs here, the most distinguish- ed are Niebuhr (now dead) and Schlegel. The number of students amounts to 720. The Electors of Cologne formerly resided here, having removed their court hither from Cologne in 1268 ; their ill; EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 195 Palace now serves to contain the University ; it is of immense size, with a facade nearly a quarter of a mile long, and includes the Lecture-rooms, Library of about 100,000 volumes, and the Academical Hall, recently decorated with frescos, painted under the direction of Cornelius, a living artist, by his pupils. The subjects are the four faculties. Philosophy, Jurisprudence, Medi- cine, in which Cuvier and Linnaeus are conspicuous, and Theology, where Luther, Calvin, Wickliffe, St. Jerome and the Fathers, and Ignatius Loyola, and other di- vines, both Catholic and Protestant, are introduced. The artist who painted the Philosophy seems to have shown undue favor to his own countrymen : thus, Homer appears sadly in the background in comparison with Wieland and Herder ; Goethe is made prominent, at the expense of Shakspeare and Dante, who hold very subor- dinate situations and are very indistinctly defined ; Vir- gil and Aristotle are sadly eclipsed by others of the mod- erns ; while Bacon, Socrates, and Cicero, are in a great degree thrown into the shade. The same building contains the Museum of Rhenish Antiquities, a very large and interesting assemblage of local remains discovered on the banks of the Rhine, and I 196 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. relics of Roman settlements in this part of Germany. They are placed under the care of the veteran Professor Schlegel, to whom application must be made for a ticket of admission. It is much to be lamented that the collec- tion is, as yet, neither named nor catalogued. The fol- lowing seem to be the most remarkable objects : — A Ro- man altar, dedicated to Victory, which formerly stood in the square, called Romer Platz, and is supposed by some to be the identical Ara Abiorum mentioned by Tacitus (Annal. I. 30.) A bronze vase, bearing figures of Her- cules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure style of art, found at Zulpich. Numerous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass ves- sels, a winged head of Mercury, found at Hadernheim ; the gravestone of one M. CedUus, who fell in the great battle of Varus (hello Variano), against Arminus (? if genuine) ; — Jupiter's wig, and thunderbolt of bronze, from the Hundsruck ; tiles stamped with the numbers of seve- ral Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in these parts ; a Roman mill-stone of Mendig tufa, and an ancient Ger- man shield of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in Westphalia, besides 200 bronzes. An avenue of chestnuts, about half a mile long, form- ing an agreeable walk, conducts to the Chateau of Pop- EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 197 pelsdorf, which has also been appropriated by the King to the use of the University, and contains the Museum of Natural History. The collection of minerals and fos- sils is particularly extensive and good, and especially in- teresting, as illustrating the geology of the Rhine, and of the volcanic deposits of the Siebengebirge and Eifel ; arranged by Professor Goldfuss. Among the fossil re- mains may be seen a complete series from the brown coal formation of Friesdorf, near Bonn. A set of fossil frogs, from the most perfect state down to that of a tad- pole, discovered in the shale called paper-coal, deserves notice. Attached to the chateau is the Botanic Garden — very spacious, very rich, beautifully situated, and ad- mirably kept. The Minster, surmounted by five towers, is a stately building externally, in the older or round-arched Gothic style ; the interior is very plain. It was founded in 320, by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, and con- tains a bronze statue of her. The choir, with its two towers, the crypt and the cloisters, date probably from 1151 ; the rest of the church is later, probably 1270. Beethoven, the composer, was born in the house No. 934, Rhein Strasse, A monument is erected to his I 198 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. memory in the Market-place. In the church-yard out- side the Sternen Thor Niebuhr, the historian is buried. Here also arc the graves of several students killed in duels. The most notable events in the annals of Bonn, are its capture after a long siege, in 1584, by Archbishop Ernest of Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who had been de- posed from the see, because he had become a Protestant ; and its surrender to the English and Dutch army under Marlborough, in 1703, after a siege the operations of which were conducted by the celebrated Coehorn. In the course of it a great part of the town was burnt. At Bonn the beauties of the Rhine may be said to have already commenced." But, the scenery it is said commences at about 20 miles above Cologne. And now it is in view I Grand and lofty hills or mountains rise from the water's edge. The seven mountains are now around us. And really I am now on the Rhine. A reality, yet like a fairy dream. About this river I have heard and read a great deal. History, romance, and song, dwell along these banks. The towering clifis frown down the works of man. These hills bear on their points the ruins of palaces and fortifications. Crumbling they loiter down to the EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 199 very edge of the water. Towers appear on our right and on our left. Ages have rolled on the ye irs, and every year has added interest to the events already recorded. ! beautiful ! As we turn from one point of view to another, every variety of scenery is presented. Along these deep valleys are fields growing with the grape, and harvest. Every hill looks down. And the sides of the banks seem places as wild as any scenery in America. The hills jutting up from all directions present new features. Town after town, city after city, and village, cluster on the edge of the banks. Eveiy point of land has with it associations which the traveller beholds with a great deal of interest. Legends, and notions of superstition are creeping into the ideas of people even here. Our guide-books relate to us many a fabulous story connected with miracles of deliverance. Poetry and song. Over this river each sweet strain has exliausted itself The Germans rightly think that tliero is only one Rhine in the world. We give them credit for love of country, and we ask them the same, when we say it would take twenty-five or thirty such rivers to make one Mississippi I 200 EUROPEAN OBSERVA'flONS. When any nation comes to boasting of ri^'ers, we have one too that could swallow all the German rivers at once. Along these banks in profusion lay the fragments of ancient glory. The thirty years' war has left its sad me- morials along its shore. Armies have stood gazing at each other from bank to bank. These high hills have been clothed with mailed warriors. Furious they have rushed on against one another, and blood has rolled on, and mingled in the stream. The armies of the Romans have made these shores rumble with their tread ; their voice has echoed along its bank, thou river of majestic beauty, and grandeur I A tale couldst thou unfold, if but to mortal ears thy silent waters could only speak. Undisturbed kings repose along thy shore, and no voice nor shout shall ever wake them to battle again. Thy waters they have disturbed. Thy glens they have loaded with their gains, and defaced thy natural walls. Lofty and giant trees waved on high their proud and shaggy tops, where now whisper the leaves of the vine. I would be willing to linger on thy shore, could the scene which nations have acted be once more EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 201 brought in view. From the frozen tops of the Icy Alps, thy waters drip, and gently roll. Along thy course, Princes bow to thee. Till lost in the ocean of immensity. ! see, see ! the grand peaks of the hills on the left.— Our boat whirls from eddy to eddy.—The company gaze and admire. The long and narrow steamer cuts the water without much noise. " Bang," " Bang," echoes the firing of a gun ; and the sound rolls back, and back again, from side to side. This is done at every steamer that passes here, for the pleasure of travellers, that they might hear the sound. The hills gradually rise higher and higher. We have just passed the palace where the aueen of England stay- ed when she was here on a recent visit. Beautiful pal- aces rest on the sides of the hills. Old ruins, ivy-covered, lay desolate on each hill, and towers leaning to the water's edge. Tales and Legends are told at each crevice of the rocks. Wonders and displays of miraculous power, and a great deal of superstition, much more than the North American Indians ever had. The Germans adore this river. Its historians, J. V. Muller, Heeren, Rotleck. Ranke, and Winklemann. have 9* I 202 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. left on their shores which other generations will see and admire. Its poets, the names, Lessing, Gessner, Wieland, Gil- lert, Vass Stolberg, Guthe, and Schiller, have all left some- thing as a memento of their fond love for this noble river. I will give here a few specimens of the ardor they feel for this river, by a German writer : — " There are rivers, whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, but none which unites almost everything that can render an earthly object magnificent and charming, in the same degree as the Rhine. As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions into the open sea, so it comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age with momen- tous events in the history of the neighboring nations. A river which presents so many historical recollections of Roman conquests and defeats, of the chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, of the wars and negotiations of modern times, of the coronations of emperors, whose bones repose by its side ; on whose borders stand the two grandest monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages ; whose banks present every variety of wild and picturesque EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ^»l 203 rocks, thick forests, fertile plains ; vineyards, sometimes gently sloping, sometimes perched among lofty crags, where industry has won a domain among the fortresses of nature; whose banks are ornamented with populous cities, flourishing towns and villages, castles and ruins, with which a thousand legends are connected; with beautiful and romantic roads, and salutary mineral springs; a river whose waters ofler choice fish, as its banks ofler the choicest wines ; which, in its course of 900 miles aflxjrds 630 miles of uninterrupted navigation, from Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks to exchange the rich and various products of its shores ; whose cities, famous for commerce, science, and works of strength, which furnish protection to Germany, are also famous as the seats of Roman colonies, and of ecclesiastical councils, and are associated with many of the most important events recorded in the history of man- kind ;— such a river it is not surprising that the Germans regard with a kind of reverence, and frequently call in poetry Father, or King Rhme:' Just before us is the rapid below Castell. The waters roar here in great commotion. The mountains are higher here still, and before night, I set down to read again I 204 EUROPEAX ODSKUVATION'S. the description which Byron by the following lines hm immortalized this as well as himself, in writing the fol- lowing description of this beautifnl and strange river. The whn'e day I have spent in looking over these ruins, and the erngs everywhere to be seen. On llii! banks of the majestic Rliino, There Harohl gazes on a work divine, A blending of all beauties ; streams and dells, Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, mountain, vine. And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells From gray but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, Worn, but unst ping to the baser crowd, All tenantless, «vve to the crannying wind. Or holding dark communion with the cioud. There was a day when they were young and proud, Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, And those which waved are sh'redless dust e'er now, And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. Beneath these battlements, within those walls. Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, "^oing his evil will, nor less elate Than mightier heroes of a Ioniser date. What want these outlaws conquerors should have ? But History's purchased page to call them great ? A wider space, and ornamented f^rave ? Tlieir hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. In their ban.iiiiil fcudH and singlo fieliln, What ileeda of prowess unrecorded died ! And Love, wl.ich lent a l.Iazon to their sliiclds, With einblcnis wll devised l,y amorous pride! Through all the mad of iron Iiearts wouhl glide; But still their fla.uo was fier. eness, and drew on Keen contest and destruction near allied, ^ And many a tower for some fair mischief won, Saw the discolor'd Rhine, beneath its ruin run. But Thou, exulting and al>ounding river ! Making thy waves u blessing as they flow Through banks whose beauty would endure forever Could man but leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the (*harp scythe of conflict,— then to see Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know Earth paved like Heaven ; and to seem such to me, Even now what wants thy stream ?-that it should Lethe be. A thousand battles have aspail'd thy banks, But these and half their fame have pass'daway. And Slaughter heap'd on high' his weltering ranks : Their very graves are gone, and what are they ? Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yesterday, And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream Glass'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ; But o'er tlie blacken'd memory's blighting dream Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem. Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long delighted The stranger fain would linger on his way ! Thine is a scene alike where souls united Or lonely Contemplation thus might stray ; 205 I 206 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey On self-condemning bosoms it were here, Where Nature, nor too sombre, nor too gay, Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere. Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year Adieu to thee again ! a vain adieu! There can be no farewell to scene like thine : The mind is color'd by thy every hue ; And if reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine 1 'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise ; More jnighty spots may rise — more glaring shine, But none unite in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair, and soft — the glories of old days. The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen. The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom. The forest's growth, and Gothic walls between, The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been In mockery of man's art ; and these withal A race of faces happy as the scene. Whose fertile bounties here extend to all. Still springing o'er thy banks, though Empires near them fall. Bykon. what power and beauty is there in those lines after one has looked on this majestic river ! The night intercepts our view. The towns and villa- ges of the Germans show their lights and fires, and the city of Mayence is in sight, on our right ; on our left is EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 207 the fortified town of Castell, where we land and reluct- antly leave our boat, and 20 miles more then we shall be in the free city of Frankfort. After a delay of two hours we have at last started, and an hour's journey or more we are in Frankfort ! and only 4,300 miles from home. But thank heaven I am safe. CHAPTER XVI. PEACE CONGRESS. The proceedings of the Third General Peace Congress, were opened on Thursday, the 22d of August, 1850, at Franldbrt-on-the-Maine, in St. Paul's Church, the build- ing made memorable by the recent meetings of the Frankfort Parliament. It is a handsome circular build- ing, with a gallery supported by marble columns, and wa> fitted up in its present state for the German Parlia- ment. Behind the President's chair, was a large shield emblazoned with the German eagle, whilst above the crimson drapery on which this heraldic decoration rested, were three flags, each black, crimson and gold. The staves surrounded by triumphal wreaths. The aspect of the interior of St. Paul's Church on the 22d, attracted, however, much less attention than did one of its visitors, when it was whispered round the place that General Haynau was present. It ! EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 209 He sat for some time near one of tlie side doors, listen- ing, apparently with much attention, but left before the termination of the proceeding's. The seats lately occu- pied by the members of the Frankfort Parliament, were OH the present occasion filled by a numerous company, made up of Germans, Englishmen, Americans, French- men, and Belgians. The seat put up for the Archduke John, and subsequently occupied by M. Gagern, was now filled by the President (for that year) of the Peace Con- gress, Herr Jaup, late Minister of Hesse-Darmstadt. There were about 500 English present, out of an audi- ence of 2000. Among the delegates to the meeting, were R. Cobden, Esq., M. P. ; Chas. Hindley, Esq., M. P. ; Lawrence Hey worth, Esq., M. P. ; Dr. Lee, F. R. S. ; Revs. J. Burrett, E. Miall, and H. Richards ; Elihu Burritt, Jo- seph Stuvge, J. Wilson, Dr. Dick, and others, from Eng- land. The list of American deputies included, — Massa- chusetts, Rev. Mark Trafton, Boston, Rev. Dr. Hitchcock, Rev. Mr. Sargent, John Tappan, Esq. ; Maine, Rev. Da- vid Tliurston ; Rhode Island, Rev. Dr. Hall ; New Hampshire, Hon. John Prentiss ; Connecticut, Rev. G. W. Pennington ; New York, G. Williams, Henry Garret ; 210 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 4 1 Pennsylvania, Prof. CD. Cleveland, Samuel Sartain ; Kentucky, W. H. G. Butler, Patrick Joyes ; Missouri, Rev. Dr. Bullard, and from the North American Indians, the Chief Kah-ge-ga-gah-bowh, or Geo. Cop way, in cos- tume. From Illinois, T. Eastman ; Indiana, A. R. For- syth ; Michigan, N. H. B. Dowling ; American Peace Society, L, S. Jacobs. From France the following gentlemen attended : M. M. Cormenin, ancien depute, member of the French Council of State ; Emile de Girardin, Editor of La Presse ; Joseph Gamier, Professor of Political Economy ; Guilaumin, Editor of the Economht ; Coqueril, fils ; Lacan, Ernest, Pontonie, fils. From Brussels, M. Visschers, M. Depeti- aux, Inspector-General of Prisons in Belgium. Germany contributed delegates from Darmstadt, Leipsic, Wiesbaden, Mainx, Homberg, Bonn, Giessen, Frankfort, and other places. The Congress sat three days, there being a morning and evening session each day. The correspondence of the London Times, spoke of us — the following : "A North American Indian, who entered with the other delegates, but who has not yet spoken, was received EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. With plaudits almost equal to those which hailed the trance of Cobden." 211 en- FIRST DAY. The centre of St. Paul's Church was appropriated to the members of the foreign delegation, and to the Ger- man members of the Congress; the galleries both on the ground floor and above, being accommodated to the ac- commodation of visitors, among whom was a large num- ber of ladies. The business of the Congress commenced each day at ten o'clock, A. M. The first resolution submitted to the Congress, was to the following eflect :_ " The Congress of the friends of Universal Peace, as- sembled at Frankfort-on-the-Main, on the 22d, 23d, and 24th of August. 1850, acknowledge that recourse to arms being condemned alike by religion, morality, reason, and humanity, it is the duty of all men to adopt measures cal- culated to abolish war ; and the Congress recommends all its members to labor in their respective Countries by means of a better education of youth, by the pulpit, the platform, and the press, as well as by other practical methods to eradicate those hereditary hatreds, and politi- 212 cal and EUROPEAN OBSEUVATIOXS. il ,'hich hr been com men rally the cause of disastrous wars." The followinjT nicinbers spoke in favor of this resolu- tion, which was carried by a unanimous vote. The R(!V. John Burrelt, T-e Pasttor, Bonnet of Paris, M. de Car- menin, of Paris ; H. J. Garret, of New York, (whose ap- pearance, he bein«T of a pure negro blood, excited consid- arable sensation and interest.) The second resolution, as follows, was presented in a speech of great power by M. Visschers, of Brussels. " This Congress is of opinion that one of the most ef- fectual means of preserving peace, would be for Govern- ments to refer to arbitration all those diilerences between them which cannot otherwise be amicably settled." This was supported by M. Bach, of Darmstadt ; M. Mourch, of Franklbrt ; M. Emile de Girardin (this gentle- man rising to reply to some difficulties which had been suggested in the practical application of arbitration) ; Prof. Cleveland, of the United States ; and Richard Cob- den, M. P. Mr. Cobden said it was not his intention to have spoken that day, but he must say a word or two on the supposed difficulties of arbitration. No doubt there were difficul- P EUROPEAN OnSEUVATlONS. 213 ties— but were tlioro not diflicultios i„ war loo ? and wlmt he wished to put before tlio dii.lomatists of Europe and America was, which of these dilheulties will you choose— war or arbitration ? One of theui it must be ; ibr you confess that neither your diplomacy, nor your me- diation enable you to settle your (luarrels— {renerally about some point of etiquette or trumpery debt of a few thou- sand pounds. What ho wanted was, if the peoj.le of England or America saw their Governments again iuvol- vcd in a quarrel with some weaker power, whether on the shores of Portugal or Greece, and refusing the ofler made by sucli a power to settle the dispute by arbitration, but resorting to the sword to enforce their demands, then he did hope that the people would drive such govern- ments from power, and supply their places with men who would do the business in a more workmanlike man- ner. Mr. Cobden alluded to the progress whi(rh tho Peace cause had made during the past year, and said that two remarkable illustrations of this progress had oc- curred in the last peace meethig which he attended in London, and in the meeting which he was then address- ing at Frankfort. At the meeting in London ho sat side by side with General Klapka, the general who had un- 214 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. successfully fought the battles in Hungary. At the meet- ing of this present Congress, at Frankfort, no less a person than General Haynau had for some time occupied a place among the visitors (General H. had left the hall before Mr. Cobden rose to speak). He (Mr. C.) thought it very significant, when they found at their meetings such men as the military leaders, both of liberty and despotism. It incited in these men's minds something like the davv^n of a suspicion that their own profession was not of the most stable and satisfactory character. (Cheers). THE SECOND DAY. diaries Ilindley, Esq. proposed the second resolution : " That the standing armaments with which the govern- ments of Europe menace one another impose intolerable burdens and inflict grievous moral and social evils upon their respective communities ; this Congress cannot there- fore too earnestly call the attention of governments to the necessity of entering upon a system of international disarmament, without prejudice to such measures as may be considered necessary for the maintenance of the secu- rity of the citizens and the internal tranquillity of each State." EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 215 The Hon. gentletian brought forwar.' a vast body of statistics, with a view to show that war had always con- tributed to national ruin, for which reason it was necessa- ry to abolish the existing standing armies, the prime cause of war. He expressed the belief that the time would arrive at which national hatred would cease and all men be brethren. Mr. Hindley was loudly apjilauded. The Rabbi Stein, of Frankfort, said that war ought not to be admitted, even in self defence, as the limit at which self-defence began would be difficult to define. Instead, he remarked, of making weapons of war, let men be employed in cultivating land, and if Europe were not large enough, there was America. Let the governments of Europe, instead of dividing men by the sword, employ them in making railways. M. Joseph Gamier showed that permanent armies render unproductive a great part of the force of man, and that consequently armies diminish the welfare of societies. He showed also that the governments, by standing armies, are obliged to crush the people by taxa- tion. The Rev. Mr. Buller of the fc.xte of Missouri, dwelt 216 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. oil the fact that the United ^States has no permanent army, though they were larger than any European State. M. Emile de Gimrdin, next spoke. He remarked that the immense sums which armies had cost would have enabled great works of peace to be accomplished, and all social problems to be solved. After the revolu- tion of February, he had, he sai- oricd " Disarm, dis- arm I Have confidence in the justice of our cause, and in the sentiments of all the nations of Europe." But ho had not been listened to, and had been accused of treason. Well, two armies had been sent to the Ehine and the Alps, and what glory had Frenchmen gained ? They had given themselves two enemies — misery and hunger, and had lighted up war in their streets. Mr. Cobdcn said that standing armies were more dan- gerous in peace than in war. War was a state of mad- ness and passion for which some excuse might be made, but a standing armament was a permanent injustice. The third resolution was then adopted. The fourth resolution was then brought forward. It was as follow.s — " This Congress reiterates its strong disapprobation of rmanent uropean smarked 3t would iplished, } revolu- irm, dis- ■use, and But ho ;used of le Rhine gained ? iery and lore dan- of mad- be made, istice. vard. It bation of KUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 217 all foreign loans negotiated for the purpose of furnishing to one people the means of slaughfning another." M. Druckcr of Amsterdam, considered that the par- ticipation among the diflbrent nations of twenty-five mil- lions of paper money was a powerful guarantee for peace. M. E. dc airardm said that certain democrats re- garded war as the only means of reconquering their lost liberties, but the money he thought might be employed in more useful purposes. War could not be carried on ^vithout means, and therefore if loans of money were re- fused it could not take place ; he should therefore support the resolution. M. Z. de Stettin remarked that a general customs union between all nations of the world would be the best guarantee against war. The fourth resolution was carried, and second day's sittings brought to a close. THIRD, AND LAST DAY. Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, the meeting of the Congress was well attended. Some ex- citement was produced by the appearance of the Rev. 10 218 EITIIOPEAN OBSEliVATIONS. Mr. Copway, formerly a native American Indian Chief, who spoke al <,n-eal lenjilh and witli much enerjry on tho immorality and irrehgionof war. The precedinnr speak- ers had been Umited in their observations to speeches of twenty minutes each ; but, in consequence of the pecu- liar circumstanoes of this case, he was allowed to address the meeting for forty minutes. The speech of this per- son was received with much enthusiasm. Ho proposed the fifth resolution, namely — " This Congress acknowledging the principle of non- intervention, recognizes it to be the sole right of every state to regulate its own aHairs." Mr. Copway was followed by two German gentlemen, Dr. Nell and Dr. Bodensee. The latter speaker urged the Confrress to undertake the settlement of the Schles- wig-llolstciu question. The proposition did not apparent- ly meet with a very cordial reception. The Chairman suggested that the introduction of that question would involve a breach of their rules which pro- hibited the discussion of any existing political question. Mr. Cobden also observed, that it would be impossible for tho Congress then to go on with the subject, as nei- ther party appeared to be duly represented at the meeting. EUIIOPEAX OUSERVATIOXg. 219 The resolution was adopted. The sixth rcsohuioii was ns lollows : "This Congress recommends all the friends of Peace to prepare public opinion in their respective countries Ibr the convocation of a Congress of the representatives of the various states, with a view to the formation of a code of interna- tional law." Mr. E. Mini!, repudiated the notion that tliere was anything visionary or Utopian in the peace movement, and made a strong protest against what are called " practical men." Elihii Burritt, entered into a history of the peace theory, which he maintained owed its origin to Franco and Germany and not to America. Mr. Chapiii of New York, astonished the assembly by a burst of Yankee elociuence, and the novel coloring which he gave to rather old materials. The resolution was carried, together with an additional one against duelling. On the latter M. Carmenm and ill Girardm spoke. A vote of thanks to the municipal authorities of Frankfort followed, in honor of whom Mr. Cobden led an English " Hip, hip, hurrah," to the intense astonishment of the Germans. 220 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. It was then resolved that the proceedings should be printed and circulated at a small charge ; and a vote of thanks to Dr. Jaup having been passed, the proceedings were declared at an end. The Congress it was announced would be held in Lon- don next year, which will take place about the month of August, 1851. CHAPTER X7II. AFTER SKETCHES OF SPEECHES AND MEN. The last of the Congress is about over, and I have made my poorest speech. For never in my life did I speak to such disadvantage. The people had already heard Girardin, the French orator, Cobden, and a host of others. The speeches of these men had given a common- place character to the speeches which were to come after them. The people had become tired of listening, and seemed to have no desire for anything new. Besides this, no new feature could be brought forward in support of the great cause of Peace, and all the arguments had been worn threadbare. The good speeches had preceded me, and the very best, which was to be delivered by the Rev. E. H. Chapin, of New York city, was just at my heels. In this predicament I could not look upon my- self with any great degree of confidence, nor as being in a very enviable situation. h: 222 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. The fifth resolution, which was moved by me, was as fellows : — " This Congress acknowledging the principle of non- intervention, recognizes it to be the sole right of every State to regulate its own affairs." I will not trouble the reader with even an outline of the remarks with which I endeavored to enforce the reso- lution. It is enough to say that they were listened to with more attention than I expected, and more than they deserved . It is doubtful whether any but members of a Peace Congress would be so lenient. I will give a short passage from the papers which kindly noticed me, not in the way of boasting, but to re- cord the good-will and kind feeling of the people with whom I sojourned : " The personal appearance and manner of the different members of the Congress, gave occasion to many inter- esting sketches. None seemed to attract more notice than an Indian Chief, who it appears was one of the delegates from America. His Indian name is given as Ka-ge-ga-ga-bowh, and some accounts call him a chief of the Otto ways, while others mention him as being of the Ojibbeways. In some papers he is also called EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 223 Rev. Copway. Ono correspondent speaks of him as fol- lows : •' The ladies direct their looks no longer to the finely bearded men on the left; the beardless Indian Chief, with the noble Roman profile, and the long, shining, black hair, takes their attention. He bears in his hand a long, and mystically ornamented staff, which looks like a princely sceptre, and wears a dark blue frock, with a scarf over his shoulders, and bright metallic plates upon his right arm. The Frankforters are sorry that he wears a modern hat, instead of a cap with feathers, yet this mixture of European elegance with Indian nature has a striking effect, which is increased by the reflection that he has come from the forests of the New World, with a message of peace to the Old, though he finds more gaping curiosity than sympathy." His manner on entering the tribune is described as follows : " An aristocratic bearing — and is not the orator a Prince ? — an earnest, calm countenance, well-toned voice, few, but natural gestures, and an epic manner, as if he stood ill the midst of his tribe, relating clearly, and with- out passion, some important occurrence. But by degrees mmmmi 224 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. he becomes warmer, steps back and forth in the tribune, raises his voice, which he now accompanies with more passionate gestures, and finally with words that I did not understand, brings forward his Indian pipe of peace, and amid the greatest enthusiasm presents it to the President of the assembly." In the course of two hours after, my speech was in the language of the Germans. I might have done somethinsf towards leaving a good impression of the speaking powers of an aboriginal American, had not a portly Yankee come forward and taken from my hand the laurels. But glad I am that it is an American who has won the best expression of feeling and approbation of the people. The speeches of Girardin and the matter-of-fact Cob- den had shaken the pillars of the immense building iu which the multitude were assembled : but tJie sjwcch ■ -s yet to be delivered. The name " E. H. Chapin" was called, and the person who answered to that name passed by my side and went up to the tribune. No sooner had he commenced speak- ing than there was felt to be something beyond the power of language, or the mere expression of ideas. The audi- ence listened. Now and then an applause escaped the EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 225 assembly. He enumerated the reasons why we should expect peace, and the blessings which would flow from it. In a few words, in vivid flashes, he pictured the whole course of improvement and reform which had fol- lowed the invention of the j)rinting press. The Bible was on its way— the sails of every land, and the mighty power of steam, were urging on the period of universal peace— oceans, lakes, rivers, air, electricity, all things were in motion to spread the event which is the desire of all nations. The steamer was dragging its rope of gold across the sea, from one continent and island to another— and as he closed, the applause of the assembly made the veiy building tremble. In the midst of this thundering applause he again passed me, and as soon as he sat down I arose, not know- ing what I was doing, and said, " It was well worth while to come 4,000 miles to deliver such an address," and then sitting down and turning to my English friends I whispered, " There ! try and beat that if you can !" Certainly tliis was very injudicious, inasmuch as it might have been construed into an insult, but I could not help it, Ibr my nerves had been so run away with that I lost all my sell-command. 10* ¥ ., r^ 226 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. The lollowing sketch of the Rov. Mr. Chapiii, in an English paper, will bo recognized by those who have seen and heard him. It is vdry liie-like : " Edwin H. Chapin is one of the ablest and most elo- quent expounders and defenders of the doctrine of unlim- ited salvation. He has no faith in the old black fellow who keeps the fire-office down stairs. He imagines that poets and divines give him more credit for sagacity and potency than he deserves, and that if he ever was a genius he is now in his dotage, and furthermore that he has not goodness enough to be entitled to our respect, nor influence sufficient over our future destiny to alarm our fears. To him a devil by any other name is just as dreadful, and the Satan he endeavors to subdue he calls Evil, Sin, Crime, Vice, Error. He thinks the distillery, where the worm dieth not and the fires are unquenched, is a hell on earth which causes weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth Mr. Chapin is an independent, straight-forward man, who has a will and a way of his own, and he is willing to allow others the same freedom he assumes himself. He does not exjject his church to cough when he takes cold, nor to persj)ire when he is warm, nor to sneeze i:E DK. CI lAPii: Jk-I*^''"-'- EUKOPEAN 0158ERVATION.S. 227 when he lakes sniifT, nor to acquiesce in silent snhmission to every proposition that he makes. He is not a theoU)fri. cal tyrant, threateninjr venpreance and outer-darkness and eternal fire to all the menihers of his ilook wiio will not uncoinpluininjrly and nnhesitatino:ly yield to his spiritual snpervisorBhip. His lessons and lectures may sometimes smell of the lamp, hut they never smell of hrimstone. His education, his temperament, his or<,^anization of hrain, his natural henevolence, and the society in which he has lived, moved, and had his beinpf, have contributed to make him a preacher of the gospel. He advocates with heroic courage and mitiring zeal the doctrines of his faith, but is universally respected by all denominations of professing Christians. Mr. Chapiu is happily constituted. The animal and the angel of his nature are so nicely balanced, and his poetical temperament is so admirably controlled by his practical knowledge, that his intellectual eflbrts arc inva- riably stamped with the mint-mark of true currency. There is a harmonious blending of the poetical and the practical, a pleasant union of the material with the spir- itual, an anr>in-arm connection of tlu; ornamental and the useful, a body and soul johied together, in his dis- V':l m 228 EUItOPEAN OJJSKRVATIOXS. courses. He avoids two extremes, ami is not so material as to be eloddish or of the earth earthy, nor so aerial as to bo vapory or of the clouds cloudy. There is somethiiif^ tangible, solid, nutritious and enduring in his sermons. He is not profound in the learning of the schools. Many of his inferiors could master him on doctrinal questions. The outbursting and overwhelming ofTusions of his natu- ral eloquence, the striking originality of his conceptions, the irresistible power of his captivating voice, the vivid and copious display of illustration, thrill and charm the appreciative hearer. He presents his arguments and ap- peals with on articulation as distinct and understandable as his gesticulation is awkward. He is sometimes ab- rupt, rapid and vehement, but never " tears a passion to tatters." His tenacious memory enables him to quote with great promptitude, and he has that delicate, sensitive taste which enables him to select Avith unerring precision whatever is truly sublime and beautiful in an author. Mr. Chapin declaims splendidly in spite of his hands, which are always in his way. The stiff and technical restraints of style which disfigure the pulpit eflbrts of some divines never appear in his sermons, but seem rather to pinion his elbows and cramp his fingers. He fi E U ROPE A N OHS E U VA'l'IONS. 229 hns a .'ervid itriagiiiation, groat facility of e.vpmssion, is scTupulously correct in his pronunciation. Ho never in- dulges in liypocrilical cant. There is no theatrical up- liiliii!? of the liamls and uprollin- of the eyes. Ho seems to have a thorough knowledge of his subject, and commands your admiration by the kingly majesty and sublime beauty of his thought. Now he flings a page of meaning into a single aphorism,— now he electrifies his spell-bound hearers with a spontaneous burst o' elo- qnence,— now he dissolves their eyes to tears by a wizard stroke of pathos,— now he controls their hearts with the sovereign power of a monarch who rules tlie mind-realm. He infuses liis soul into liis voice, and both into the nerves and heart of the hearers. In pei^son, he is stout, fleshy and well-proportioned. His countenance is mild, benignant and thoughtful, with an expression of integrity, denoting his inability to per- form a mean action. He is near-sighted, and his delbct is no small disadvantage to him when he reads, atid may account for his ungrateful action in the pulpit, since it compels him to face his manuscript so closely he almost eats his own words and salutes his own rich figures and glowing sentiments, and fu'fils literally the scriptural 230 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ih maxim, " He shall kiss his own lips who givcth a correct answer." But, as I have just intimated, he usually reads his discourses, althonimterecl, lanf'ul in lind you, flair you you will ight of a une, call and it is .fficulties culations iding his ; always, ling, and iprehend ntricate ; unravel ; s you, as sentence erchance r : hence here you were when he began. He does not point out the road you are to travel for the accomplishment of your purpose, but he gives you theories which are to be your guide. You do not advance ; you are not carried forwards either with or against your will ; but keeping the one point in view, instead of approaching tou-arcU it, you move round It always at the same distance. Alas! alas! it was this very fault which before, in these same walls, led to nothing. Here, in the Peace Congress of the Nations, I understood how Germany, like the virgins who slept, entered not to the fbast when at last the bridegroom came ibr whose arrival they had so long been watching. If you are tired of listening to the speaker, then look at that man sitting on the right of the president, and leaning back in his chair quite at his ease ; his right el- bow on the table, and his head resting on his hand. His thin dark hair is combed over his forehead on the right, his eyebrows are drawn somewhat together, and he seems not to be merely looking at, but scrutinizing, those before him. His mouth \^ firmly closed, by which I mean that the lips do not merely gently touch each other, but that they do so with a pressure. Such a mouth is always indicative of steady resolve. As he sits there, moving 11 242 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. only his eyes, but not turninp: his head, there is, me- thiuks, a rather dark expression ahout the brow. Perhaps I may be wrong ; yet strangely enough, that countenance recalls one I have elsewhere seen, over which, and with good reason, an expression of gloom was spread. Now look yourself, and tell me is there not in that head a strange resemblance to one well known to you ? Does it not remind you of Napoleon ? For my part I thought at once of that picture where he is sitting after a defeat with knitted brow and eyes gazing fixedly before him. It is said that he whom you are looking at, and who at this distance looks so like the Emperor, is related to him ; and I dare say he is not disinclined to assist the resemblance as much as is in his power. The president reads the name of Emile Girardin as being next on the list of those who have announced their intention to speak ; and he whom we have been observ- inf' rises and mounts the tribune. He moves with a quick step ; he makes haste to obey the summons. He seems quite at home iu his present place, as if he were accustomed to be often where he is. There is nothing like hesitation in his manner, although he does pause for a moment or two. and looks around him before he be- EUROr'EAX OnSKUVATIONS. 243 gins to speak. Why he does so I do not know ; perhaps it is only his usual manner ; perhaps, however, it may be done for e/Tect. He holds in his hand a small piece of paper, on which some notes are written ; but once having begun to speak, he is in no want of ideas : thoughts, and words to express them, come crowding on ; and the short-hand writers yonder will have enough to do to follow him. Hi.s utterance is rapid ; and now and then having said something terse and to the point, he comes to a dead stop. He has pronounced words that strike you. and he knows they do so ; he knew they would before he uttered them, and he is giving you time to let you feel their effect, and, if you like, to applaud. His countenance does not grow animated by speaking; his brow is knit the same as before ; and there is still something dark about the eyes, and the upper part of the face as he looks straight before him. Action, that diffi- cult part of the orator's art, he has yet to learn. He moves his right hand up and down at regular intervals, and then again it takes hold of the tribune in company with the left. There is something very commo.iplace in this monotony of action, corresponding as it does in no way whatever with the matter of his discourse. But 244 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. how well-turned arc his phrases, how elegant his diction ! It is true he often says somt'lhing that would not mean much if translated into English ; although as he puts it in the elegant language of France, it does arrest your at- tention. His sentences are mostly short ; and it is in these short ones that there is most point. He utters them abrupt- ly, and at the same time with much decision ; as if those words were to settle the question at once. ' La science de- truit la politique,' he will tell you ; or, ' II y a une nouvelle politique dans Ic monde — c'est la science.' This is not said as a theory, but uttered as a law. It is pronounced like a commandment, and as such you are to receive it. To the applause which greets him he seems accustomed, and waits quietly each time till the noise has subsided before he again begins to speak. He intends that each word shall be heard, and till all is quiet that cannot be. A phrase of usual length, followed by one of but five or six words, spoken quickly, but with the firmest intona- tion, and the discourse is at an end. He quits the tribune as quickly as he entered it, and taking his seat, is again an imperturbable spectator as before. What a thunder of applause now resounds through the building as yonder speaker is about to ascend the tribune I EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 245 diction ! ot mean e puts it your at- in these 1 abrupt- s if those ience de- nouvelle lis is not onounced eceive it. mstomed, subsided that each annot be. ut five or st intona- le tribune t, is again rough the le tribune I That is Cobden. There is nothing in his person that could lead you to believe he would battle still wlien reso- lution appeared to be in vain ; nothing that might incline you to notice him in a crowd of men. But let him speak, and you at once acknowledge the man to be ' a power' — a power that dictates, and must be treated with like a neighboring state. He is below the middle height, and of spare habit ; one of those men, in short, who Sallust tells us are to be feared in a state. Every syllable he utters is as distinct as the organs of speech can i.nake it. He speaks rather slowly at first, and at times so* ne what hesitatingly ; but this is not because he does not know what to say, but because he is thinking how he shall express his meaning with the very utmost amount of power. He does not seek fine words, but strong ones. And strength there is in what he says, and in his manner of saying it. His sentences are short, like the Roman sword ; but they are forged for close warfare and a hard struggle. He leans forward as he speaks ; and with his right arm, as he dashes it downwards, seems to beat his arguments into his hearers' minds. Right or wrong, his whole heart is in the cause. Of that there can be no doubt. He speaks from conviction ; and with an earnestness and Mttii 240 EUKOl'EAN OBSERVATIONS. intensity such as one rarely hears. There is nothing ele- gant in his language ; it is clothed with no ornament, but, like the naked limbs oC the gladiator, it trusts en- tirely to its unaided strength. All he proposes is intelli- gible ; all his reasoning is plain and clear. He knows nothing of theory, but deals solely with facts. He hurls into the arena before you — at your very feet, as it were — some fact, some massive fact ; and he tells you to get rid of it — to move it thence if you can. That is his mode of arguing. There is such energy in his manner, such life and energy in his words, that you now understand the power of the Corn-Law League. Such speaking is new here. It takes every one by surprise ; but after a while you hear from time to time exclamations in various languages, all expressive of won- derment at the boldness of his thoughts, and the manner in which they are imparted to you. But he cares only for convincing his audience, and cares not for its ap- plause. He is full of his plan, and does not like delay ; hence he is impatient of the ' bravos' and the shouts ; and he can hardly wait till the storm of approbation has sub- sided. But as he retires to his place, it does not die away EUKOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 247 SO soon, and all give expression to their feelings in one long round of applause. As in the plays of the French dramatists there is more attention to the rules of art than in our own, so is it in the speeches we have heard to-day, In style and in ar- rangement the French were certainly the best : they were the most finished of all. Victor Hugo was to have been there, and it would have been interesting to hear the a,uthor of' a la Colonne' speak on the benefits of uni- versal peace. But as he stated in his letter, ' his physi- cians had condemned him to repose' — an expression, by the by, which it would never have entered the head of an Englishman or a German to make use of. Cobden's words fell from his lips with all the force of a sledge- hammer. There was truly nothing in his oratory, but all he said had weight and substance, or rather had weight because it was composed of real tangible stuff. The Peace Congress afibrded much matter for thought, independently of the especial object for which it was held : one could here study to advantage the distinctive fea- tures of the different nationalities." Besides the above, I give a leader in the Times news- paper in London, in reference to the Peace Congress, H 248 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. which is characteristic of that paper to run down any such scheme, " Mr. Cobden has been ' starring' in the Provinces du- ring the week. It cannot be denied that, as far as num- bers are concerned, he has drawn a numerous audience at Frankfort. The portion of his performance which appears to have given the most unlimited satisfaction, was the chaste and humorous manner in which he indoctrinated the motley assembly in the Paul's ';irche in the mystery of a true British cheer. Henceforth it may be expected that the guttural sounds in which the chamois hunter of the Alps, and the green-coated rifleman of the Tyrolese mountains, are wont to give utterance to the pent-up emotions of their minds will give place to the measured * hip,' ' hip,' ' hurrah I' of the Guild-Hall or Free-mason Tavern. The remainder of Mr. Cobden's performance does not seem to have met with the same success, as his final point, nor is such consummation to be wondered at. A formidable rival sprung up in the person of an Ojibway Chief — who for the best portion of an hour indulged the audience with a rhapsody upon the impropriety of dig- EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 249 ging up the war hatchet — and taking a scalp from a fallen foe. La Longue Calchine was the Jenny Lind of the Paul's kirche. He evidently got the better of Mr. Cobden, who to regain his ascendency could find nothing more to the purpose than to give the audience a sample of an English after-dinner cheer. The people who had been collected together in the Paul's kirche were evidently delighted with the diversion after the weariness of the orators, and set about cheering with all the powers of their united lungs. To be sure there were no very subtle arguments to be deduced from their hurrahs, but they were, at any rate, as conclusive as the speeches. Any serious comment upon the proceedings of the Peace meeting is entirely out o^ ne question. One of the speakers — Mr. Hindiey, of Oldham, had the naivete to relate to the audience a short conversation between himself and Lord Brougham. The point of the anecdote was that Lord Broufjham had once told M. Hindiey that the ministers of the Peace Congress were ' the greatest fools.' Whate\er our opinion may be, we might have hesitated before expressing it quite so tersely as the noble 250 EunopEAN obsp:kvations. and learned Lord. But since the ^vord has been said, we will only add that a great many people are of Lord Brougham's way of thinking upon this point. As to the horrors of warfare there can be no question. We have as profound a detestation of all armaments, military or naval, as the Ojibway Chief himself. We would hail with rapture the day when the last bayonet to be found in Europe Avas turned into a corkscrew or a carving-knife. But what avail our empty wishes ? Is it right or honest to foster the delusion that any serious — any appreciable — in- fluence over the course of events can be exercised by the delivery of a tissue of inane platitudes upon the advan- tages of peace and the calamities of war ? It would be just as much to the purpose if a Congress should be held to-morrow to point out the beauties of truth, and the ugliness of lying. We do not see why each of the ten commandments should not in time furnish pretext for a meeting of nations in Frankfort or elsewhere. Charity, patience, humanity, honesty, sincerity, purity of word and deed, are all excellent topics for very excellent essays or orations. The human race requires to be set right upon each of these points to the hill as much as upon the hor- rors of war. Nay, the series of ethical agitations we EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 251 propose would be much more to the purpose, than what is called a Peace Congress. Mr. Cobderi and the Ojib- way are turning up a shallow furrow indeed. Could nations and individuals be persuaded to act with justice, and forbearance, and humanity, — could they be taught not to covet their neighbor's goods, and to do to others as they would themselves be done by, the armies of Europe might at once be put on the half-pay list. War is but the expression of evil passions — certainly on the side of one — probably on the part of both of the belli- gerent powers. But it would seem from the records of history that civilization is a plant of slow growth. Time is the great element in all human improvement. Men cannot be made just and merciful by a batch of speeches and in two or three hours' time. When the present generation has passed away, and another and another, it may happen that the transcen- dental dreams of universal fraternity may be realized ; but, as yet, we grieve to say it, we see little prospect for so desirable an object. There is one point connected with the Congress which cannot but very forcibly arrest the attention. When we read over the resolutions proposed to the assembly we find i 252 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. them to consist as usual of recommendations of National disarmament, of disapprobation of foreign loans nego- tiated for the purpose of furnishing one people the means of slaughtering another, and so forth. Now, when these gentlemen find practically, that the ^^overi'^nents of Eu- rope cannot or will not disarm the troops at their com- mand — when they sec that, for all their talk, the Emper- or of Russia need but propose a loan, and the subscription list is filled up in the course of a morning in ihe city — of what avail is it to persist in such visionary schemes ? Whatever may be the case in daj- to come, the present Mr. Cobden and his Indian friend are belbre their age." This is a fair specimen of English raillery which has been heard by us and read, as we have now travelled over a country which is now groaning in spile of its gi- gantic wealth. It will be tolerated in other nations to say much against the Peace movement in this or any other country where less disaster has attended the passions of war — but an Englishman whose very country is now groaning of a debt created by the past folly of its. Heads, is the last one who could be expected to say so much against the present benevolent movement of the cause of Peace, EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 253 The devastating eflects of the national debt is felt in the splendid palaces of the rich^ and reek in the gutters of the miserable. But, to be consistent — I have heard the Englishmen even say that the national debt was ben- eficial to the people ! and to the country with its gov- ernment. If this is beneficial — then the slavery entailed on the American continent by the British government in its early days must of course be a benefit to the people of this country. One is just as detestable as the other, and the present enlightened age will not tolerate such evils. CHAPTER XIX. VISIT TO HEIDELBERG. Saturday morning, and a pleasant morning it is too, Our Congress is over, but the people are as busy as ever The Prince Frederick desired I should see him this morn- ing at 7 o'clock, masonicaily. I saw him last evening just as he was leaving his room. Ho is a fine-looking man, and as stately in his bearing as General Scott, of the United States. Indeed, I never saw a man more commandmg in his appearance. This morning my friend Dr. J. W. Carove, desires me to visit the Heidelberg University, of which he is one of the Professors. After that, at 9 o'clock, I must bid farewell to the city of Frankfort. As I Avas passing through the Parade Grounds the Prince was having a review of the soldiers. Ten thou- sand soldiers in arms I the sight was an imposing one. Their burnished weapons and splendid equipage glittered EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 255 before the sun, and the tall plume of the Prince, who was conspicuous on the field, waved before us as we passed. These soldiers make a brilliant and formidable appear- ance, but such things are altogether repugnant to my feelings since my warrior's creed has been changed to a harmless one. My visit to the University was pleasant. I ascended the Tower which is situated on a hill about three miles high, and had a panoramic view of the vast country which surrounds it. Far off in the westward are visible the peaks of the hills of France. A mountain range, looking as if its top was lost in the clouds, makes its ap- pearance. The mountain on which I stood extended its rugged hill-tops northward, as far as the eye could reach. Far off in an easterly direction the villages of the Ger- man nation lay slumbering in peace and silence. There again rolls the tide of the beautiful Rhine. The fiery beams of the sun glisten on its surface, and the whole water appears as if it were a river of fire. Onward it rolls its winding course, its crystal waters enclosed in a locket of green. Here is also the Neckar, coming into sight as if it were just emerging from under the hill, and like a classic river oi' modern times it passes by this tern- 256 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. pie of learning. On the other side of the Neckar the farms appear in dots, and the whole valley is loaded with grain and vegetation. The hardy race of women are in the fields performing the duties of husbandmen, while their husbands, sons, and brothers are stationed at the frontier towns of the north, ready for war. These German women are short and portly and have ruddy complexions. With their sun- burnt faces they may com- pare to advantage, so far as redness is conceriied, with any of our squaws in America ; and like them they are serviceable at home and in the field. But of course there are ladies for the parlor in Germany as well as in every other civilized country. To grace saloons and drawing-rooms, women must be converted into butter- flies, joined in the middle by a thread, ornamented with a great variety of hues, formed to flutter and fly about, and to live on sickening sweets, such as their counterparts, the flowers of the boudoir, may ofler. There is more heart in a German peasant woman, and more soul in a simple-minded squaw, than in a thousand toys that are formed only for ornaments and playlliings. Doubtless either extreme is to be deprecated, and the noble gentlewoman is a medium between the two, Iree from EUIiOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 257 cocarseness on the one hand and from frailty on the other. The spires in the south-west are the steeples of Straus- burg. I cannot stay here, for the time approaches Avhen I must leave the town. I think of it with reluct- ance, and I shall be still more reluctant to part with these things which minister so greatly to my enjoyment. Where I stand it blows a gale, yet I would gladly stay here till sunset, and take a view of the surrounding scenery, the hills bathed in the glory of the setting sun, and the rich landscape softened by the shadows of the mountains. The whole valley is dotted with villages surrounded with vineyards and gardens that look >.o if they had been made for the lovers of the picturesque as much as for subsistence and comfort. Here and there the smoke rising from groups of dwellings, awaken a thousand associations of domestic peace and social har- mony within, and, to one of great imagination, associa- tions of fairy habitations, among the clouds. There is a rail car coining up the valley ! Its trail of smoke ex- tending in a right line, and appearing motionless, while the car shoots over the ground like an arrow, produces a singular impression. The spinning of a fleece of idack I li^ itfjtAi 258 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS wool, is a homely comparison, but th< >' ^'ight be a worse one. The company who have managed lo ffPi 'p here are well pleased with the sight, and in accordance with cus- tom I have recorded my name, nation, place of resi- dence, &c. I must now descend and find my way to the University, to see the library, museum, and other objects of interest. But first of all I shall take a look at the old castld, which is the noblest ruin I ever beheld. I cannot do better than give the reader a description of it by one who knows something of its history. " The Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. The building dis- plays tile M'ork of various hands, the taste of difiljrent founders, and the styles of successive centuries : it is highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, its vastness, and the relics of architectural mao-- nificence which it still displays, after having been three times burnt, and having ten times experienced the hor- rors of war. Its final ruin, however, did not arise from those causes ; but after the greater part of the building had been restored to its former splendor in 1718-20, it EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 269 was sot oa S'... by lightninrr in 1701 : and since the total confiagmtion which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is at present only ii eullectiou of red stone wall, and has remained roofless for nearly a century. It is approached by a carriage-road from behind, and by a winding foot-path on the side of the Neckar. The oldest part remaining is probably that built by the Electors Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the character of a stronghold of the middle ages, and the teeth of the port- cullis still project from beneath the archway leading to It. The Friedrichsbau, named from the Elector, who built it in 1G07, is distinguished by excessive richness of decoration : its facade to the south is ornamented with statues of ancestors of the electoral family from Char- lemagne. The part of the building most deserving of admiration, for the good taste of its design, and the ele- gance of its decorations, is that which overlooks the river, and extends along the east side of the quadrangle built by Otto Henry (155G), in the style called cinque cento, which is allied to the Elizabethan of England. The statues of heroes from sacred and profane history, which decorate the front, though of (keuper) sand- stone, are by no means contemptible as works of art. 260 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. The English traveller will view with some interest that part of the castle called the English Palace, from its having been built for the reception of the Prin- cess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of James I., and grand- daughter of Mary aueen of Scots. The triumphal arch, having pillars entwined with ivy leaves, was erected by her husband, the Elector Frederick V., afterwards King of Bohemia, to celebrate their nuptials ; it led to the flower-garden which he caused to be laid out for her pleasure, and it still goes by the name of Elizabethan Pforti?. " When her husband hesitated to accept the crown of Bohemia, this high-hearted wife exclaimed, ' Let me rather eat dry bread at a king's table than feast at the board of an elector :' and it seemed as if some avenging demon hovered in the air, to take her literally at her word ; for she and her family lived to eat dry bread— ay, and to beg it before they ate it ; but she ivould be a queen."— Mrs. Jameson. The -ranite pillars supporting the canopy of the well in the corner of the court of the castle are said by some to have been brought from Charlemagne's palace at Ingelheiiii, though they are undoubtedly derived from the quarry in the Od^n- wald. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 261 In. a cellar under the castle is the famous Heidel- berg Tun ; it is the largest wine cask in the world, being capable of holding 800 hogsheads, or 283,200 bot- tles, which is far less, after all, than the dimensions of the porter vat of a London brewer. In former days, when the Tun was filled with the produce of the vintage, it was usual to dance on the platform on the top. It has, however, remained empty since 1769, more than half a century. One of the towers which formed the outer defences of the Castle {der Gesprengte Thurm) was under- mined and blown up by the French ; but so thick were the walls, and so strongly built, that though nearly the whole of one side was detached by the explosion, instead of crumbling to pieces, it merely slid down from its place, in one solid mass, into the ditch, where it still remains. Subterranean passages, for the most part still preserved and accessible, extend under the ramparts. The Gardens and Shrubberies round the castle, and the adjoining Terrace, to the eastward, afford the most agreeable vvalks and splendid points of view it is possible to conceive over the Neckar, issuing out of its vine-clad valley, and winding through a plain of the utmost fertil- 262 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ity to join the Rhine, which appears here and there in distant flashes glittering in the sun. Spires and towers proclaim the existence of" cities and villages almost with- out number, and the landscape is bounded by the outline ot" the Vosges mountains. The best general view of the building may be obtain- ed from the extremity of the terrace raised upon arches, and prejecting over the Neckar. The castle, however, is so grand an object, and the surrounding country so ex- ceedingly beautiful, that the stranger will hardly be satisfied with seeing it from one point. He should mount the heights on the right bank of the Neckar, either by a path leading from the end of the bridge, which is steep, or by a more gradual ascent from Neuenheim. An agreeable path, easily accessible, called the Philosopher's Walk, conducts along the slope of the hill fronting the town. The hill behind it, which stands in the anjrel be- tween the valley of the Rhine and N.^ekar, called the Heiligeberg, presents a more exte.isive prospect. On the top are ruins of a crstle and ■ incrfh of St. Michael, which succeeded to a Roman fort built on the spot. In 1391, the sect called FIag:;eilants nade a pilgrimage to this holy mountain, clad ,u black, and wearing a white EUROPEAN" OBSERVATIONS. 263 cross in front and behind. In the thirty years' war, Tilly opened his trenches to bombard the town from this point. About 50 yards above the bridge, on the right bank, in a solitary inn called Hirschgasse, the at. dents' duels are fought. Four or five sometimes take place in a day ; and it is no uncommon t liing for a student to have been engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, ni the course of four or five years. The Konigstsuhl, the highest hill in this district, lies behind the town and castle. The summit may be reach- ed in 1 , or 1 1- hour's walk, and the view is the most extensive in the neighborhood. A lofty tower has been erected for the convenience of visitors, who often repair hither to see the sun rise, and if possible to extend the limits ol the panorama, which includes the valleys of the Rhine and Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Mountains on the W., the Taunus on the N. W,, the ridge of the Black Forest on the S., with the castle of Ebersteinburg, near Badcu ^nd the spire of Strasburg Minster, 90 miles ofT, Tilly bombarded the town from this hill, after his attack fron> th} right bank, and failed : remains of his trenches are still visible. 2G4 EUROPEAN 0BSERVATI0X3. There is a small tavern near the top, called Kohlhol', where persons anxious to see the sun rise sometimes pass the night previously. The banks of the Neckar above Heidelberg are very interesting, and afford many pleasant excursions — one of the most agreeable being to Neckargemund (Inn, Pfalz ; good), six miles off. A road, overlooking the Neckar, runs from the castle, along the shoulder of the hill to the Wolf's Brunnen, an agreeable walk of two miles. It is a pretty retired nook, named from a spring which rises there. There is a small inn close to it, fumed for ito trout." Here i s;. v a ceremony of embracing, which I never saw bei. r a any country. Dr. Pennington, an Ameri- can delegate for the colored race, having once been made a D.D., and received a diploma from the Professors of this Inslitution, met for the first time some of the Professors ; and a Dr., one of the Professors, having been informed that Mr. Pennington was among the strangers who had come to visit the University, immediately sought for him, and they met in the old dilapidated chapel inside of the old castle. They made addresses Wi the crowd first, and then they embraced one another before the audience, EUROPEAN OBSEKVATIONS. 205 and Jcissed each other. While I was looking for some comer in which I might indulge my pardonable smile, I stumbled over an old dried up monk with his hands out- stretched towards me for ah7is. It was, however, only an image clothed in rags. The library is a wonderful collection of books and MSS., both ancient and modern. Here we saw Luther's MS., a "Dissertation on the Prophecies of Isaiah," and his "Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks," and other mementos of him in different forms. The time is now over, and I am required to return to Frankfort, just in time for the ears ! On my left is seated my warm-hearted friend. Dr. J. W. Crovae. Weary, and my eyes filled with dust, I fell asleep. Dreamed of home — 0, how provoking I When we took leave of Frankfort this morning, we left a German with a pipe in his mouth, standing near the station, pointing the passengers to another part of the building. This afternoon he is here still, standing in the same place, and smoking the same identical pipe, though it is probable that a number of pipes full of tobacco have passed into smoke since morning. lu most cases useless and noxious things, however much they 266 EUROPEAX OBSERVATIONS. may be favorites of iLe public, end in smoke. This is a fair specimen of the smoking propensity of the Germans. A7^gust 21th. 1 have visited a place of resort near Weisbaden, the prettiest I have seen. It is a gambling place, authorized by the government ; and all ranks (it would not be proper to say classes), of the people go there —ladies as well as gentlemen. I stood in the hall a few minutes ago, and saw a file of men and women, 15 or 20 in number, standing with their florins in hand and throwing them into a pile, when a single toss would tell the story whether they gained or lost. One man had 25 florins in his hand, and threw one at a time until he had but two left, and those two won him back what he had thrown upon the table and seven florins besides. Tlae players sat opposite each other, with faces as hard as marble, and hearts still harder, no doubt. But the gardens, walks, lakes, fountains, are all beau- tiful. This city is the prettiest I have seen in this coun- try, without any exception. The 28th, I leave for Dusseldorf to visit the German poet, Mr. Freiligrath. At 9 o'clock, I am on the Rhine, gliding along in a Bwift steamer. 0, how delightful ! The hill-tops turning EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 267 about as we pass them by, as if to present themselves to us in every position, that we may take a view of them on all sides. The passengers are all on deck, gazing as if it were the first time. There are, however, a few ex- ceptions. For the thousandth time you exclaim, " What a difference there is in people !" There is a man from who seems not to know that there is anything to admire in the scenery around him. In his hands is a novel, and his soul, if he has one, is wrapped up in that. It is not merely every creature that has four legs that is an animal. If any of my own acquaintance were to fix their eyes on a book when passing over such a beautiful country as this, I would jerk their heads up at the risk of offending them, and tell them to see the glorious attire with which nature adorns herself I enjoyed the trip coming down much better than that going up, for there were not so many passengers on board. My friend Mr. Close accompanied me to Dusseldorf, where I find the famous poet, who, on account of his re- publican feelings and predilections is not allowed to pub- lish his poems without inspection by the government. For the violation of this rule he has seen the inside of a 268 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. prison — of such a tolerant character is the government of Prussia ! Him and his Turkish lady I find very affable and kind. Both are handsome, and their minds are as good as, yea better, than their looks, A lovely little pappoose, a pic- ture of innocence, lies nestling in a cradle. Bud of promise, unfolding thy tender leaves to the scorching heats, the biting frosts, and the merciless storms of this world, take this kiss from a red man of the American wilderness. Thou hast a softer bed, and more tender hands to rear thee, in this garden of the Old World, than the wild flower that buds and blossoms in the forests of the New. For thy own and thy parents' sake, God bless thee, sweet babe ! My time being limited, I leave for Cologne, where I expect to spend the evening with men of science. About half a dozen of us spend the evening together, and endeavor to amuse each other. Students from Bonn arrived about 12 o'clock. My friends have been trying very hard to make me drink. Though this is a very strange way of showing their friendship, they are never- theless friends — such inconsistencies do the customs of society subject us to ! EUROPEAN OBSEllVATIONS. 269 To their cordial solicitations I said " no," but finding they " would not take no for an answer," I left the com- pany rather unceremoniously, about 2 o'clock in the morning. At an early hour I found they had been hunt- ing for me through the crooked and coffin-like streets of Cologne until 4 o'clock, or daylight. They thought, I suppose, that an Indian could not find his way home. For a literary and scientific people these Germans are a strange set. Their recreations are in proportion to their soundness and laboriousness as scholars. Among other things which they learn they will find that when I say yes I mean yes, and when I say no I mean 7W — according to the scripture injunction, "Let your yea be yea and your nay nay." While speaking of this celebrated poet I here give a short notice of him, and a piece of exquisite poetry, from his pen : — " One of the most gifted of modern German poets is Freiligrath, the author of the exquisite poem we copy below. His early education was a commercial one, having served his time as a clerk in a wealthy banking house of Holland. He secretly cultivated poetry, while immersed in business occupations ; and, unknown to his 270 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. friends, bej^an to contribute to a German periodical the first (iedgelin N k ■^% ■ ^ X V 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 r^^ '^2 \ ;V 272 EUROPEAN 'OBSERVATIONS. Swing from the cups that tremble on those stems The little spirits, the embodied scents, Some bearinjr shields, some topped with diadems, Delicate mists their robe and ornaments. From the flushed bosom of the queenly Rose Arises gracefully a slender Lady, Pearls glisten in her hair, that freely (lows As dew-drops glisten where the copse is shady. Forth from the visor of the " Helmet plant" A keen-fiiced Knight steps mid tlio dark-green leaves, His presence breathing liigh chivalric vaunt ; Complete in steel he shines from crest to greaves • Over his morion, nodding waywardly, Hangs heron plumage, gray, and silver pale, Leaving the " Lily," with sick, languid eye, A wood-nymph, thin as gossamer her veil. Out of the " Turk-cap" comes a swarthy Moor, Wearing his flaunting robes with scornful show ; On his green turban glitters, fixed before, The golden radiance of the crescent bow. Forth from the " Crown Imperial," bold and tall, Sceptre in hand, appears an ermined King ; From the blue " Iris," girt witJi falciiions all, His hunters troop, green-vested like tiie spring. Sullenly swirling down from the " Narciss," A youthful form, with silent sorrow laden. Steps to the bed, to print his fevered kiss Upon the red lips of the sleeping maiden. 38, EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. The other spirits, crowding, press and swing All round the couch in many circles jay ; They swing and press tliemselves, and softly sing Over the eleeper their mysterious lay :— " Maiden, O cruel maiden I thou hast torn Up from the earth our every slender tie. And, in this gaudy colored shard forlorn, Left us to weaken, wither, fade, and die. " Alas ! how happy once was our repose On the maternal bosom of the earth, Where through the tall tree-tops that o'er us rose, The sun made vistas to behold our mirth ! " The balmy spring, with many a gentle breeze, Cooled our weak stems that to its bidding bent At eve descending under the s*iU trees How blissful was our faery merriment I " Clear on us then fell heaven's own dew and rain ; Foul water now surrounds us stagnantly We fade, and we shall die— but not in vain. If, ere we pass, our vengeance lights on thee." The spirits' song is hushed, their errand told ; Bending, around the sleeper's couch they go; And, with the brooding silences of old, Retiu-ns again the whispering soft and low. Hark ! how the rustling rises round the wreath ! How glow her clieeks, instinctive of their doom ! See hi)Av upon her all the sj^irits breathe- How the scents undulate throughout the room I 12* 273 274 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. The slanted sparkles of the western day Smiting the room, each spirit vanisheth ; Lpon the cushions of the couch she lay ; Aa beautiful and, ah ! as cold as death. One faded blossom, lying all alone, Lends to her cheek a tender tint of red, With her wan sisters sleeps that hapless one — Oh ! fatal breath of flowers ! — the maid is dead. H. G. K. They had agreed to meet and accompany me to the station for Calais, at 6^ o'clock, but only one was present to bid me farewell. I am now again on my way to Ca- lais, and London, Travelled ^11 day and all night — the road dusty, and our company quite jaded — a poorer-looking set I never saw — passed over Dover, Brighton, and Conlay — I am in London agaiu CHAPTER XX. H. G. K. to the present to Ca- ty, and I never — T am LONDO.N- AGAIN". I HAVE just got inside of Babylon again. The noise and confusion which reign over this great city, would make stronger heads than mine to turn and ache. " Buses" long and narrow, low and humiliating, and affectionately close. There are but the lower classes who has mrnopolized these in this country, and very seldom any of the higher classes are even seen in them. There are a great many thousand of these conveniences which run from the Exchange, London Bridge, and the great thoroughfares of the city. There are in general twenty- one for a load. Thirteen inside and eight outside, and sometimes more than enough. The peculiar feature in the appearance of the stores in the oldest part of London is the narrowness of its stores, which is generally the case in the famous street Cheapside. But in the west end, the resort of the up- I 276 EUROPEAN" OBSERVATIONS. per-ten-dom, the stores are more of a modern size and appearance. Particularly so in Regent street. There are stores there which in point of richness surpass any- thing I have ever seen. The stores in New York are some as neat-looking as any I have seen. Nothing of all that I have seen surpasses in point of size, convenience, elegance of taste, as that one in New York lately built by " Bowen & McNamee," their extensive silk store, and that of Stewart's. The streets are generally narrow in the old part of the city. Long, crooked, high and dark, dismal, smutty- looking after a gas-light is very soon after that necessary to travel with. Or if no gas-light, a man must accus- tom himself to walking by faith, or feeling. I have to officiate in the Rev. Mr. Luke's Chapel Sun- day twice. As he is still on the continent. A delightful audience. An attentive one. And T sh -ild judge an intelligent one also. The people here call their meeting-houses of all Dissen- ters, Chapels, and the Established Churches are only to be called a Church or Churches. The Chapels and Churches that I have been in, in this city, are very old fashioned. No cushioned seats, high EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 277 backs, and one sitting in them can sleep very easy, and not a sight of anything except your head. The pulpits are more like a barrel, and when shown in one of these I always did feel as though I was in a barrel hooped-up and was speaking through a bunghole, — stand- ing in one position, — there is therefore no animation. Not much elbow-room, neither for the feet. Cramped on all sides, one cannot but wish for room. I know it is not necessary with some to have any room, and others again — that is the most effective part of their perform- ance, Monday morning. I had a visit from a gentle, man and lady who offer me a suite of rooms. And I am glad that the Great Spirit has put this into their hearts, as to do me this kindness. I have gladly availed myself of seeing them early in this week. Found cards in my room of people who have called. I must go to this and to that one. I cannot go to all, my time is limited, and however pleased I might be to see them, some like myself must be disappointed. To record the events of this week would be to com- mence another volume, when I have spent the most agreeable part of my sojourn in England. 278 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 1 ■ • h ||| 'ii! t • ■ 1 ■j " 1 r \ " ; 1 ■ i ^ ■ ■ 1: j ■''i :( ■ r '; i: , t, i 1 1 j ! \ j i i it i Letters after letters. This morning I received at a quarter before 9 o'clock eighteen letters ! And two com- mittees have waited on me, for to go and deliver ad- dresses to their people, for objects of Benevolence. I had expected a great deal might be done to do some good to my own countrymen in the way of presenting the object of their own educational interests, and for this rea- son I endeavored to seek the aid and countenance of the so-called " Aboriginal Protection Society" — and instead of being any benefit I had to just leave off everything when so many obstacles were thrown in my way. I had made a false high estimation of this body. A great name indeed without any power. A body without a knowing aim, and less energy of purpose. I seo a Gluaker friend from Philadelphia is also here in the city, presenting his colonization scheme, in which very few of the people seem to interest themselves. In the visits that I made with a Rev. Gentleman \\\ the poor districts of this great city I find much misery and wretchedness. Another afternoon has been allotted to visiting the Rag- ged schools. Certainly it is not a poetical name. These schools are poor-looking enough, but certainly they looked EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 279 a great deal better than names indicated. Delivered five addresses to-day, and endeavored to please and gratify the young English boys and girls. God bless them. I have now delayed over two weeks in this city, and having received an invitation to go to Scotland and from Lord Brougham at his country-seat, I leave now for Leeds. The travel between here and that city is very good ; and everything comfortable. Here I stayed for a short time and delivered addresses to the sabbath-school children in one of the churches. Preached on Sabbath, lectured on week days, and visited during the day the surrounding country. This is a great manufacturing country. Cloth is here made to perfection. I have just visited Mr. Rawson's cloth factory, where I hav seen the process of cloth- makinsf. Here the railways meet from all directions — diverging over the whole surrounding country. I used to read a great deal about Leeds. To look over it from the highest hill near-by appears as if it was one vast smoke house. Smoke, smoke, all but smoke. 280 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. The consul of the United States here is a fine hearted gentleman. In my visit to this place I found the historical notices of this place as follows, which I hope will be of some use to my readers in the way of information : " Leeds, the largest and most flourishing town of York-, shire, on the Aire, is the metropolis of the woollen manu- facture, and the fifth town in England in point of popu- lation and commercial activity. It is an ancient town, and was probably a Roman station, but has been the scene of no historical events. Its situation is highly ad- vantageous for manufacturing and commercial purposes. The chief articles of manufacture here are superfine cloths, kerseymeres, swansdowns, shalloons, carpets, blan- kets, &c. ; plate-glass, earthenware, and the spinning of flax to a great extent. Its merchants also buy extensive- ly the woollen and stuff' goods made in the neighboring towns and villages, and get them finished and dyed ; so that Leeds is a general mart for all these fabrics. The Leeds cloth-halls form an interesting spectacle on the market-days. Machine-making is a flourishing business in Lc;ids. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal connects Leeds with the Western sea, and by means of the river EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 281 Aire it has a communication with the Humber. By means of railways, this town now enjoys every advantage which can be given, by the most rapid communication with all parts of Great Britain. Leeds has eight churches, numerous dissenting chapels, a free grammar school, a national school, a philosophical and literary socie- ty, a mechanics' institute, a theatre, and various charita- ble institutions. Leeds was the native place of Dr. Hart- ley, author of Observations on Man ; Wilson, the painter ; and Smeaton, the celebrated engineer. Dr. Priestley, the distinguished philosopher, officiated for several years as the minister of the Unitarian chapel here. Leeds gives the title of Duke to the family of Os- borne, which sprung from this town. Two M.P. Pop. of town and liberty, 152,054. About three miles from Leeds are the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, picturesquely situated in a vale watered by the Aire. This abbey was founded in 1157 by Henry de Lacy for monks of the Cistertian order," CHAPTER XXI. FIRST VISr/ TO SCOTLAND. Having always had a iireat desire to visit the coun+-y of the Scots, I must leave Leeds and travel northward with my son and lady, and see the famed country so much honored with the songs of the two best poets in their day — Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott. On our journey we go first to see the birthplace of my companion in Knaresborough ; and after visiting Ripon at the residence of Mr. William Hovell, the brother of my father-in-law. The numerous curiosities here in Knares- borough are interesting. I virited the Dropping Well, and wrote my notices a few steps where the water drips. Thus is a romantic wilderness connected with all the scenery of this stream of water which rolls along so si- lently here. Rock, bold, and large trees ovevhanging their branches are standing along the rugged banks— and here cool breezes assemble and run in ripples over th EUROPEAN OBSEliVATIONS. 283 smooth surface of the cicar waters of this singular spot. How often did i use to hear in Canada from a poitly fair one of this place. The walks, yea, the moonlight walks, as the silent waters rolled underneath in the deep shade of yon valley. Step after step, then the waters descend from the wood-hill, it emerges and then sunning itself in clear noonday -where the lamb and the herds of the tame ones are sporting over the fields made green by its waters. The Town Hall is a wretched place I deliver an ad- dress in the Hall, and find some warm hearts here for all it does look rather forlorn just now. A raiiioad runs by the town. I give here the historical notices of the place : " Knaresborough is delightfully situated on the banks of the Nidd, which flows through a most romantic valley below precipitous rocks. The church is a large old struc- ture, containing several monuments. Here are the re- mains of a castle which was erected soon after the con- quest. It belonged at one time to Piers Gaveston, the favorite of Edward II. In the year 1331 it was granted by Edward III. to his son, the celebrated John of Gaunt, 284 ELROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. and was afterwards one of the places in which Richard II. was imprisoned. During the civil wars it sustained a siege from the parliamentary forces under Lord Fair- fax, and at last surrendered upon honorable terms. It was afterwards dismantled by order of the parliament. Part of the principal tower is still remaining. In the ^valk along the bank of the Nidd opposite the ruins of the castle, is a celebrated petrifying or dropping well, springing in a declivity at the foot of a limestone rock. Near it is a curious excavation called St. Robert's Chap- el, hollowed out of the solid rock ; its roof is groined, and the altar adorned with Gothic ornaments. About half a mile lower down the river are the remains of a priory founded by Richard Plantagenet. A mile to the east is St. Robert's cave, remarkable oa account of the discovery of a skeleton here in 1759, which led to the conviction and execution of the celebrated Eugene Aram. Knares- bnrough has manufactories of linen and cotton, and its coru-market is one of the largest in the county. Two M P. Pop. 1,G78. Knarosborough v/asthe birthplace of the famous blind guide John Metcalf. He had lost his sight in infancy, and yet frequently acted as a guide over the forest during the night, or when the paths were covered EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 285 with snow, — contracted for makinj? roads, buildinar bridges, &c. He died in 1810, aged ninety-three years." I visited to-day the town oi' Harrogate. Placed in a level land, and surrounded with hedges, houses rather scattered. It is the Saratoga of the county of Yorkshire. There are thousands here now to drink the water. The mineral springs which are found here is all that which has builded this town — and boarding-houses are as nu- merous as any of the Spa places in America. They charge all they can get too, and they will not refuse even any amount after you have paid your bill. The Brunswick House is very good, but we rather liked the " Crown Hotel," where they charged us an aristo- cratic charge for four days. Here is the hisiorical notice of it — short and brief We have had some good times here, friends are kind, and attended my lectures well : " Harrogate is celebrated for its mineral springs, which are annually visited by about 2,000 persons. It consists of two scattered villages, known by the names of High and Tiow Harrogate, situated about a mile from each other, and possessing ample accommodation for visi- 286 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. Ill i tors. Harrogate possesses both chalybeate and sulphur- ous springs. Of the former the oldest is the Tewit Well, which was discovered about the year 1576. The Old Spa, situated on the Stray, was discovered by Dr. Stan- hope, previous to 1631. The Starbeck chalybeate is about midway between Harrogate and Knaresborough. The Saline chalybeate is situated at Low Harrogate, and was discovered in 1819. The sulphurous springs are, the Old Sulphur Wells, situated at Low Harrogate, close by the Leeds and Ripon road ; the Crown Sulphur Well, situated in the pleasure-grounds belonging to the Crown Hotel ; and the Knaresborough or Starbeck Spa, situated nearly midway between Harrogate and Knaresborough. Harrogate possesses a considerable number of hotels, several boarding-houses, public baths, promenade-rooms, ball and billiard-rooms, circulating libraries and reading- rooms, four places of worship, &c. High and Low Har- rogate contain upwards of 4,000 inhabitants," Saturday morning we set off to the North, to the great coal place, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The railroad leads over a quite level country. Farms, towns, and gentlemen's country-seats, are on our left and on our right. The sky is better here. Coal-pits are all EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 287 along each side of the road. And vast quantities of coal lay in heaps just from the bowels of the earth, Newcastle is a very interesting city ; I preached here, and always had very full audiences, and to Mr. McLiver I am indebted for this, and afterwards also, from my warm-hearted friend, Joseph Kimpster, one of the Dele- gates to the Peace Congress. The notices of this place are given as follows : " Newcastle-upon-Tyne is supposed to have derived its origin from Pons ^lii, the second station from the eastern extremity of the Eoman wall. Previous to the Conquest the place was called Monkchester, from the number of monastic institutions ; its present name was derived from a castle erected here by Robert, eldest son of William the Conqueror, on his return from an expedition into Scot- land. Nev/castle was anciently the resort of numerous pilgrims, who came to visit the holy well of .lesus' Mount, now Jesmond, a mile north-east of the town. One of the principal streets in Newcastle is still called Pilgrim Street. Another ancient town, called Pampedon, appears to have been included in the limits of the modern Newcastle ; its name may be traced in the modern Pan- don Hall, Pandon Bank, &c. Newcastle has been the I 288 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. scene of many most interesting events in the history of England. David I. of Scotland made himself master of the town in the reign of Stephen, and obliged the people to swear allegiance to the Empress Maude. Here John of England and William the Lion of Scotland had a con- ference in the year 1209. Here again Alexander of Scotland and his dueen came, in 1235-36, and had a conference with the King of England. Here John Baliol did homage to Edward I. for the crown of Scotland. In 1293, the famous Sir William Wallace, in one of his in- roads into England, made several vehement but unsuc- cessful attacks upon the town. In 1318, during the reign of Edward II., an unsuccessful attempt at a perma- nent peace between the Scots and English was made here — two nuncios from the Pope, and two envoys from Philip of France, besides the English and Scotch com- missioners, being present. In 1342, David Bruce, King of Scotland, made an unsuccessful attack upon the town shortly before the battle of Neville's Cross ; and, twelve years afterwards, commissioners met here to consult on his ransom. In 1012, Newcastle was besieged by the Scottish army under General Lesley ; but the Marquis of Newcastle, who was governor for the King, successfully EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 289 defended the town against him. In the next year, how- ever, the Scots under General Leven took it by storm ; but Sir John Marlcy, then mayor, retired to the castle, with about .'jOO men, which he held till terms of capitu- lation were obtained. In 1G36, above 5,000 persons died of the plague at Newcastle. In 1646, Charles I. was brought hither from Newark by the Scots, to whom he had surrendered himself Newcastle is supposed to have been incorporated by William Rufus ; but the first mayor was appointed in the reign of Henry III. The town, which has more than doubled its size during the present century, is situated on the summit and decliv- ities of three lofty eminences, rising from the north bank of the Tyne, and ten miles from its mouth. The town of Gateshead occupies the opposite bank, and may be re- garded as a sort of suburb of Newcastle. " A strange mixture of ancient and modern objects strikes your eye in the more lofty and prominent features of Newcastle. There stands, tall, and stalwart, and square, and blaclc as ink, the old donjon-keep of Robert Curthose, the son of the Conqueror. To the left still higher towers over the town the fine steeple of St. Nicholas, and to the right the new and lofty column in honor of Earl Grey. Here, 13 I 290 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. along the banks of tho river, you see ranges, one above another, of dim and dingy buildings, that have stood for centuries amid the smoke of the great caj)ital of coal ; and there, on its bold eminence, a Grecian fabric, stand- ing proudly aloft, like the Temple of Minerva in Athena. Beyond it, agaui, you catch the tops of houses, and ranges of streets, that indicate a degree of modern mag- nificence which at once astonishes you in the midst of so much that is difierent, and stimulates you to a nearer in- spection."* Newcastle has undergone a most wonderful change during the last few years. In the centre of the town the old and narrow streets have been swept away, and some of the noblest and most magnificent streets and squares in the kingdom erected in their room. Tho person by whose genius and industry this marvellous change has been effected is Mr. Grainger, a native of the town, who has made his way from the condition of a charity boy, and the apprentice to a carpenter and builder. " The following," says Miss Martineau, ■' is a surnmaiy of five years' work of Mr. Grainger, from August, 1834, to August, 1839. The old property removed consisted of * Howitt's Visits to Remarkable Places, 2d Series, p. 287. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 291 two theatres, the late butcher-market, Anderson Place, one large inn, eight public-houses, eighty private houses, and a great number of work-shops and inferior buildings. The site of the improvements cost XH5,937, workmen's wages and materials, X'199,753 ; total, £G45,G90. Out of this have arisen the following : nine new streets, ex- tending collectively 1 mile 289 yards ; the new market, the central exchange, new theatre, new dispensary, music hall, lecture room, two chapels. Incorporated Company's Hall, two auction marts, ten inns, twelve public-houses, forty private houses, and 325 houses with shops. The value of the whole Amounts to £995,000." Besides these magnificent erections, Mr. Grainger's plan compre- hends the junction of .several railways, the formation of extensive quays, the erection of ranges of manufactories, and on the high ground of villas and terraces. The other objects of interest in Newcastle are St. Nich- olas' Church, a handsome edifice, with a beautiful spire in the form of an imperial crown, an altar-piece, by Tin- toretto, and a valuable library, containing, among other curious books, the Bible of Hexham Abbey ; — St. An- drew's Church, a very ancient structure, part of it of Ncrman architecture — St. John's Church, containing an 202 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. ancient font and several ancient monuments ; All Saints' Church, a modern edifice of Grecian architecture, with a steeple 202 feet high; St. Ann's, St. Thomas's, Mary Magdalene, &c. ; the infirmary, the Keelmen's Hospital, the monument erected to Earl Grey, surmounted by a statue of that nobleman ; the Royal Arcade, 250 feet long, by 20 wide and 35 feet high, &c. The new cover- ed market is pronounced to be the finest in the kingdom. Its area is more than two acres. Newcastle also pos- sesses several meeting-houses, hospitals, and other chari- table institutions, a literary and scientific institution, con- taining a fine library and reading room, a museum room of Egyptian antiquities, a gallery of Eoman altars, and other antiquities, &c. The free gramrpar school was founded by Thomas Horsley, who was mayor of Newcastle in 1525. Here the late Lords Eldon, Stoweil, and Colling- wood, the poet Akenside, and other eminent persons re- ceived the earlier part of their education. The principal business of Newcastle is in the shipment of coals, the produce of the surrounding coal-pits. About three millions of tons of coals are shipped annually from the river Tyne. The other chief articles of export are lead, cast and wrought iron, glass and pottery, copperas and EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 293 other chemical productions, soap, colors, grindstones, salt, and pickled salmon. The imports are wine, spirituous liquors, and fruit, corn, timber, flax, tallow, and hidea from the Baltic, and tobacco and various other articles from North America. Newcastle returns two members to Parliament. Pop. 49,860." Newcastle is a noted place, and of late the railway king, George Hudson, has done some good to this town by having an iron and stone bridge which has been placed across the chasm that forms the winding of the river. A beautiful piece of workmanship it is too. A white man, a day or two ago, deliberately took off his clothes on the top of this bridge and jumped down to the water just for the amusement of the bystanders — after coming up, he took up a collection among the wit- nesses to his performance. Good as this place is, and kind as the friends are to us, we must travel still northward, to Edinburgh. The railroad scuds over the country which perceptibly begins to change into a mountainous region from a low monotonous country, yea, the road leads over a beautiful country, just by precipices nearly overhanging the sea- I :i ■ ! 294 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. P. shore On one side is liie mountain region, on the other is the ocean sweeping on its bosom a thousand ships, and far off is a steamer like a mere speck in the ocean. Its snake-like trail behind hangs and is lost in the clear sky from behind. Though I have letters of some importance, yet I cannot find it so convenient to be dependent altogether to great names as long as one can halp himself. And now we are in Edinburgh ! the great city of the Scotch people. This is that Castle which often I have heard about, and now recurs to me a scene which I saw some years ago in my native land. It was a group of Scotch people who had just settled near by my father's. Just then I began to hear them speak, and I heard the name Edinburgh, and Edinburgh Castle so often that I could speak it, if I could nothing besides — for an elderly woman with a pipe in her hand was sitting in the cor- ner of the log-fire, and she in speaking of " Edinburgh Castle," wept like a child. " Na, na, na, ever see Edin- burgh Castle," said she, as she shook her head into her lap. I love to see in any one a love of country, so much as to weep at the mention of one's birthplace. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 295 And this is the city of palaces, and there are a great many things to admire in this city. It is situated in a romantic and abrupt country — high, naked liills, — grim- visaged, hard-browed, and frowning with dignity. And amidst this country so full of hills and so full of valleys is this city situated. There is yonder palace where the dueen of Scots lived, " Holyrood Palace," and on that high hill is the Edinburgh Castle, in which King James was born. what lovely sight it is to see in this wild scene monuments to the memory of Scott and Burns I I can hardly see Nelson's on account of these others. 1 traversed this city, and saw a great many good men — the Rev. William Ried, one of the most eloquent divines of this country, and a go-a-head reformer. Noble and generous. God bless his heart. I spend a part of a week here and the other in Glasgow, and I might stay here all the rest of my days among a people who seem to be so full of kindness. I delivered three lectures in Edinburgh and two in Glasgow, and finding I am required to be in London at the first great meeting of the people who are friendly to the cause of Temperance, I must again repair to London. 296 EUKOrEAX OBSERVATIONS. Si I' h While I stayed in Edinburgh I met J. P. Nichols, LL.D., with whom I found much interest, as he has been in America, and spoke much in favor of the Ameri- cans as a kind-hearted race of people. I took breakfast with Professor Simpson, the discov- erer of chloroform, near the sea-shore with other friends. A man of middle age, stature full, and rather in the al- dermanic order, his face well-proportioned, — and his fore- head indicates his acquired fame. The strangest thing that I saw was the fossil tree, the remains of a tree in the rock under the hill of stone, which, in blasting for rocks they found in a state of preser- vation, having turned into a rock. There it still lay perfect — its roots — and branches, and tapered-ofT some- what inclined. This is about 25 or 30 feet under the hill, and a short distance from the water. No one can tell how long this may have lain here. After speaking to crowded houses lu Edinhurgh and Glasgow, I must leave for London, ._, i,„o way of Ber- wick. And after a travel of a day and a half I am again in London. CHAPTER XXII. LECTURES AND ADDRESSES IN LONDON, AND TRAVELS TO THE NORTH. The great meeting at the Loudon Tavern is over, and the papers are full of notices of it. Some applaud and some condemn the speeches. It was a brilliant sight indeed. Crowds had to leave for want of room. I will sit down and write about it to one of the Boston papers — of things in general which I have seen, and what I have done in my northern tour. London, Oct. 25th, 1850. EuiToiJs New-Englander : — Though I have been very silent since I came to this country, it is not that I have been idle. i After enjoying the tour through Germany, Holland and Belgium, I came to the city of London, and have bten travelling in tlio North of England for live weeks, and 13* "9SBHW* 298 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. saw a glimpse of the Highlands of Scotland. I must say, M'ith reference to the home of the nohle-hearted Scotch, it is near like the grandeur of America Ours is of course better. In my tour to the North, I have delivered lectures in the principal cities and towns on my way, which were well attended. I found in Newcastle-upon-Tyne a very warm reception, and when I came away felt as though I was leaving my only friends. I hope to see them again. In Scotland I found a people sturdy, energetic, enter- prising ; and in Edinburgh I can say I have friends who will always be in the right place in my heart. Here- and-there I ha/e delivered temperance lectures ^or the people, and though, in this laud of " drinking," one has to have an unusual precaution not to be led by the pop- ular fashion of drinking ; for if any one is to dine with lords and dukes, there it is temperance principles are to be tested. Comparing this country with America, the latter is a sober country, for here, beer-drinking and gin- drinking are the bane. The English are a beer-drinking nation, — the Scotch, a whiskey-drinking nation, — and the French, a wine-driiiking nation. Each of these, of course, drink other drinks besides cold water, but it is the EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 299 I above peculiar drinks iu which each excels. And yet, through England and Scotland the people are at work in organizing societies for the prevention of" this bane of civ- ilization. In Scotland, I addressed the young abstainers styling themselves the " League of Temperance," twice — once in Edinburgh, and again in Glasgow. There were over 4,000 children assembled in the Free Presbyterian As- sembly-room, where I saw a sight, which, when I could look into the future, I could say from my heart, " When these shall become the representatives in the world forty years from now, should they continue to abstain, old Al- cohol will die from starvation for the want of victims, and this land, long polluted, will be seen by angels with envious eyes I 0, let it come 1" I heard these children sing, and while they sang their parents could look with a smile as they, thought of the bright future. I tried to say something, but my heart was too much disturbed. But I will tell you what I did and said after the lecture was over. I told the children there were a great many thousands of young teetotallers in America, i asked the children to give three cheers for the young abstinence cause m Europe ; they did, boys and girls waving caps, ■OMRHMii iiiBi i uKii 300 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS, Mt. pocket-handkerchiefs, aprons, &c., with a sound hke that of many waters I And then ''once more, three hearty cheers for all young ahstainers in North America." Then it was I heard a cheer which lasted for more than a minute. The immense huilding in every part was crammed. I addressed also a meeting in a large chapel in Glas- gow, and that, too, was crowdingly attended, — though it is perilous for me to go to Scotland, on account of the kindness of the people. I am going again in the course of two weeks, and after enjoying several more meetings, I hope to leave /o/' tnij native land. 0, how dear is my land to me ! If now no other way could I see Than to swhn across over tlie wide sea, I'd see my home — and then see thee ! I attended at the " London Tavern" the first of a se- ries of temperance meetings which are to he held during the coming winter, or during the World's Fair. I cannot chronicle every event which transpired in my stay in this city. The meetings I attended in the suh- urbs of the city were interesting. Norwood, Kentish- town, Maberly, Westminster, kc. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 301 Here I became acquainted witli a jieullemau by tlie name of John Cassell, a coflce-dealer, a Yunkeo-EiijrliBh. man, tall and well mado. Me related to me tlie time ■wdien he used *o deliver temperance lectures throuj,diout the country. I believe he is now very rich. He is the principal mover in this great temperance demonstration. My lectures and addresses were always well attended. Here also I became acquainted with the great English Temperance Apostle Jabez Burns, D.D. Preached for him and attended several temperance lectures with him. I found him very favorably disposed to the Americans hi general, and yet hates the institution of slavery. I had to get myself an office at the Strand where I could see the people who called on me every day. The great temperance demonstration has taken place in Drury-lane Theatre, being the largest hall or house which could be got, as the Old Exeter Hall is now un- dergoing repairs. Committee after committee has called to get me to de- liver a Jresses for benevolent purposes. Letters are pouring in from the surrounding country, — of pressing in- vitations. I wish 1 could go and sec them all, it would gratify me very much. 302 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. It has been raining for some time, and the fog of this country is different from any other— the mud and fog are the same, for in these narrow streets the mud flies, and the fog is all down in the mud, so heavy is the at- mosphere. I was pleasantly quartered with a gentleman in Vin- cent Square while I stayed there. This is the last Sabbath I am to be in the city. My appointments run to the North as follows :— Nov. 7, 185C 1 . . . London. 8, " • • • Manchester. 9, " • ■ • Manchester. 10, " (Sunday,) London. 11, " • • • Huddersfield. 12, " • • • Manchester. 13, " • • • Huddersfield. 14, " . . York, (7 1-2 o'clock.) 15, " . . . Darlington, (7 1-2 o'clock.) 16, " • • • « a «« 17, " (Sunday,) Newcastle-upon-Tyne. 18, " . • * Sunderland. 19, " . . . York. 20, " t • • Sunderland. 21, " • • • Darlington. 22, " ♦ • > Newcastle-upon-Tyne. EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 303 Nov. 23, 1850 . . . Edinburgh. " 24, " (Sunday,) Edinburgh. . . Edinburgh. . Edinburgh. . Dundee. . Perth. . Dundee. . Glasgow. (Sunday,) Paisley. . . Glasgow, . . . Perth. Edinburgh. . . Edinburgh. Travel to Liverpool. . . . To sail for America by the steamer Africa. Dec « 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, Such are my appointments before I sail for ray native land. To begin with, I am not well and have already disap- pointed two of my audiences at Manchester. A cold has been on me which has prostrated me. I am just able to go and fill my London appointment at the Rev. S. Luke's. The following is the address which I gave because many here had heard of a plan which I had pioposed to the general Government of this country for the purpose I lii'! 804 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. of doing something' good for our Indians. And I deliv- ered this for the purpose of doing the cause of my race some good before the British public. II II i THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. " My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge." — Hosea iv. 6. " I have taken upon myself this afternoon to adopt the language of God in the movxth of His prophet, 785 years before the birth of the Saviour ; and perhaps, in the midst of this crowded audience, there is no one who is more fit to adopt these words than myself ' Mi/ people are de- stroyed for lack of knowledge.' In speaking of the history of my brethren, the North American Indians, I cannot help referring to the many evils which have tended to reduce, or demoralize, and to ruin them, since the discovery of the western continent. In view of all that I have seen, as well as of all which history relates, I can adopt the language of the text : ' My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge.' And, in speaking this afternoon briefly upon the subject, T would first endeavor to engage your attention, by refer- ring to the means of the destmction of the North Ameri- EUIIOPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 305 can Indians, arising from their social disarrangement the conditirii in which they were found, when America was first discovered. It has been the idea of many, tliat the downfall and ruin of some nations is absolutely ne- cessary, before they can be blessed by Christian educa- tion ; but, on referring to the structure of society, and the elements which have caused their downfall and ruin, you will find that it has not been altogether through the iron will of Him that lives above, that they have declined and disappeared from the face of the earth. And this, which applies especially to the Indians, will be found to hold good, in most instances, with regard to the other na- tions of the earth. What, then, has caused the ruin and the downfall of the Indians of North America ? One of the first reasons is, that of the 273 Indian tribes of America, about a quarter of them, that have had to do with Europeans, have come in contact with the worst classes of society. There is a class of men, roman- tic in their ideas, adventurous in their spirits, and reck- less in their lives, having no morals, nor fear of God's law, nor regard to the common law of mankind ; and these are the first to come in contact with the diflerent races of men all over the earth They have nothing in 306 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. the shape of morality, or of Christian education — that education wliich, in coming in contact with the nations of the earth, warms up their universal characteristic, which is veneration. These have been the men, that have sowed discord and perpetuated so many jars in our country, and produced the greatest prejudices against civilization or education in the minds of the Indians. They reason thus. If these are the specimens of civil- ized life, they have little predilection to become civilized after the same manner. They have little or nothing to do with Christian, civilized, good people ; they are ac- quainted only with the worst classes of society, who prowl about the forest, like roaring lions, and on their way sow destruction and discord ; and instead of him who once could send up a shout, and a merry shout of his children, to the skies, grief, misery and distress have, step by step, followed the course of the Indian, The second reason that I give, why the Indians of North America have not improved, but have been reduced in numbers, since they have come in contact with Eu- ropean races, is, the introduclion of ammunUlon of tear, in the shape of rifles and muskets. It is true that the Indians were just as expert with the bow and arrow, iiii EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. 807 before they came in contact with the races of men that had what they termed the "serpent, that spits out fire and death," which was their definition of a gun ; but they soon saw that a shot would do more execution than an arrow; and therefore, in their wars among themselves, they have destroyed one another ten times more than be- fore they possessed such a weapon. The third reason is, that the Indians have been brought together on both sides of the armies of the Eii- ropean poivers that have fought in our country. The Spanish, the French, the Dutch, the Americans, and the British, have all called out the aid of the savage from the forest wilds, to arm ag.Mst their supposed enemies. Before this the Indians knew not what they were at war with each other for ; but the Indian's prowess, bravery, stern nature, have been appealed to, and he has been caused to leave his forest wild, and in the midst of the war-shout and the death-song he has sung and danced like a fiend, intoxicated, as it were, by the promises that have been given to him, in the event of victory. But the Indian goes back to the wood, and no one cares for him, much less to teach him Christianity. The fourth reason is, because the institutions, or at 308 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. least the i^chnoh, that have hren established in our coun- tnf, have not met the icants of the Indian youth. It has been an itk-a of some of our missionaries, that in order to become educated we must be taught in our own laujiuaf^^e. Tiiereforc the Indians, in learning their own lauguaf^e, have perpetuated their own ideas, and had no- thin«T to do with English literature. Twelve years ago, when I first began to speak the English language, 1 used to tell the missionaries—" Teach the Indian children the English language, and you will not be under the necessi- ty of teaching them their own, for that will come to them naturally." For instance. There are some letters in the English alphabet which we omit entirely — such as f, I, r, V, X ; these are altogether silent — we have no use for them. Now, if we are taught in our own lan- guage, we cannot make any use of these ; but the sooner we are taught the English language, the sooner will we be introduced into the wide fields of the past, as well as the literature of the white man ; and by reading, learn- ing, transforming gradually the entire feelings, the thoughts, the actions, the very emotions of the Indian, we become even ivs the noble white man that loves his God. But because we have been taught in our own Ian- EUROPEAN OBSEItVATlOXS. 309 F guage, we have been perpetuating our old ideas from one to another. Two or thiee years back I visited tiie west- ern country, went through the valleys of the Mississippi and the Missouri. There I saw that the missionaries had begun to adopt what I told them, and what th-v ought to have done in the first instance. Now we are twenty- live or thirty years in our progress behind what we should have been, if, at the moment we came in contact with good men, we had been taught English education. The Ignorance that arises from our not learning the English language in the first instance, has been another of the means, indirectly, of the decrease of our race. Fifthly, diseases of sl foreign nature have been intro- duced—diseases which were not before known among us —such as the small-pox and other epidemics, and the dis- eases arising from a course of vicious habits ; and nation after nation has died, through not knowing how to check these diseases. Thus, the Mandans, and others in the west, were once powerful nations. In the years '37 and '38 the small-pox raged among the nations of the west ; and one of those tribes that suffered most I saw a year ago, last October. When the old chief perceived that his village was dying away every hour— that his wife was i|^ , 810 EUROPEAN OnSEUVATIONS. declining, that some of his family had already died, and that himself was about to fall a victim to the horrible disease, he said to his two sons — " (io to the cast, to the wigwams of the white man ; never look back ; go right to the cast, and tell ther i that we have all died here in our village." They started, and went across the Council Blufis ; and at the fall of that year the yovmger of the two got his brother to go back again ; and there they saw their once populous village all desolate, and their whole country, as it were, laid waste by this dreadful dis- ease ; and when they went to their wigwam, they saw the remains of their relatives. They hunted round the different places, to bee if they could discover any traces of their father. They went just below the spring, and there they saw something in the shape of a coat ; they weut up to it, and perceived the remains of their father ; his old pipe, that he often had with him in his council, lay by, his pouch also by his side. There he lay, with his head towards the water, as if he had gone there to die. The youngest of the brothers went to the top of the hill, near the banks of the river, and stood looking about wildly over the whole country, that seemed to have been covered by the ravages of disease. His brother war, just EUROPEAN 0I3SEUVATI0NS. 311 in the act of going away from him ; and this yonng man could not bear the idea that they two were the only rep- resentatives of a village of nearly two thousand people. He looked round on the country in which he once lived, and the fields over which he had sported, and seemed as if taken by despair. He seized his gun, put the muzzle of it to his mouth ; and when his brother turned to look at him, he saw the flash ; and he fell a victim to despair. Such are the effects of disease in our country. The last reason that I will give, why the Indians of North America have decreased so much, is the use of al- coholic drinks. The Indian has no uolished society to check him, no social ties to restrain him ; and therefore, when he comes in contact with the intoxicating liquor he drinks and drinks, and step by step digs his grave, and down he goes. This is perhaps one of the strongest rea- sons I have named. The whole of our country was blessed with the smiles of the Great Spirit, before such things were introduced among us ; and now what is the consequence ? The gradual diminishing of some nations, and the utter extinction of others. Gradually do they recede towards the setting sun, till it has become a creed to the white man, that it is of no use to endeavor to EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. check their progress, and to save the North American Iii- diaris. These are some of the things, my friends, that have produced the duwufall and ruin of ray brethren. But I am surprised to find even in Christian lands, where I see, and am dehghted to see, the white man engaged in read- in"- this blessed Book, that ho should think he discovers in that Book some things that might be construed into the idea, that the imi law of God is that which has crushed and made few the noble sons of America. It is not so, mv breihren. 1 read in a diflerent light from this the character of the God whom you love and serve. His benevolence is written ui the page of nature around me ; and every blade of glass, and the sweet sounds that vibrate on my ear, and salute my heart with feelings of warm emotion, tell me that the God who made the earth is a God of love. The God that we adore, my brethren, is not the author of the downfall and ruin of the North American Indians ; it is the laws of nature disarranged altogether in the Indian, by the elements of destruction which I have named, which has caused his downfall. ' But,' it may be asked, ' why is it that the Indians of North America have not improved, when they have been EUKOPEAN OBSEKVATIONS. 313 iu contact M'ith Christian men, and since cfTorts have been put forth to save them ?' It is too often the case, that because we place so much vahie on what little we bestow for the cause of Almighty God that we expect in a short time to receive an equivalent, in the shape of trophies to His glory. I have in my hand a little work, which illustrates the gradual progress of the North Amer- ican Indians in literature. Among the Indians to which I belong, the Ojibway nation, our publications amount to fifty-three, consisting of translations of different books for schools, as well as the Word of God. We have a good deal of the Old Testament translated into our language, and the whole of the New Testament. The Mohawks have five or six translations of various works ; the Sene- cas also have different translations. The Shawnees have a variety of literature, which belong to them alone. The Ottawas have five or six translations of English literature, as well as of the Bible and Testament. The Menomenes, Wyandott, Sioux, Chickasaws, Choctaws, Creeks, Osages, and the Cherokees— all these Indian na- tions have various books, for the purpose of improving the young mind. The Cherokees, perhaps, have improv- ed a great deal faster than the other Indian nations, 14 I i I I'i irri ! 11 814 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. thou'^h their having been ilrivou iVom their abode, the side of the Mississippi, has prevented them IVom improv- ing so fast as they would otherwise have done. The Ojibways are begimiing to have several of their own seminaries amongst them, for the purpose of perpetuating pure principles in our country : and if living in brick houses, and having farm-yards, that are filled with diflbr- ent kinds of domestic animals, and fields that wave be- fore the wind, are no signs of ivilization, the Indians will never become civilized. If the Indian, having been taught the means of elevation, have not exhibited any energy of character, in order to grasp the great truths that were presented to his mind, and store them in his heart — then his condition is a hopeless one. We have sometimes been told that tlie Indians cannot improve ; but send one of our young men into your halls of educa- tion, and see if he will be behind four or five white boys that are sent there at the name time, with the same ad- vantages for instruction. Not one of these I have known that have been sent into religious schools, but what has come back at least with a great deal of credit to himself, and much gratification to the hearts of those that sent him. The composition of the Indian's mind is like that EUKOPEAN OUSKHVATIONS. 315 of the Saxon race; it only iv.iuircB hard ruhbitig, i,i or- der to hriuiT out the briglitost and best (lualities. ' Wliat, then, have missions done V This has oll.-u been asked me, hy people in this cou.itry, as well as in America ; lau-hing at the idea of our missions, as il'they had not done anything, and pointing with the finger of scorn at the scenes of their labors. Now, if these peoj.le can give us a plan that has worked better than ours, I certainly will adopt it, provided it be attached to the eternal throne ; but do not tell me that splendid laws, and education, and such policy as this, is alone io be the means of profiting the nation to which I belong. It is not your farms nor your palaces tliat we want ; it is that sanctified education that has made your people become powerful, energetic, and prosperous. But do not tell me that education alone is necessary, in order to elevate the Indian. Why, my brethren, I like education very well ; but apart from Christianity, apart from the morals of the Gospel, it is like building a splendid mansion by the sea- side ; in a few years it will begin to reel, and down it must thunder at last upon the waters. But place the edifice upon the liock that was given Ibr the salvation of the world, and build it as high as the skies, and it will 816 EUROPEAN OBSERVATIONS. remain, to guide the pathway of geueralions in the fu- ture. When you have the principles of the Gospel to cement a structure of this kind, it must stand, and per- petuate its blessings to those who live around its base. This is the kind of education that we want for the red man of the west. We have had diversity of missions. Our Methodist friends work their way ; our Presbyterian friends their way ; our Baptist friends their way, the Episcopalian church their way, the Moravians their way. Why, my dear friends, when it concerns the salvation of a na- tion — why do we go to perpetuate the heart-burnings gendered in the breasts of those who alike read and learn the laws of God and the Word of God ? If any one comes into our country as a missionary, I would to God that he would leave all his dogmas behind him, and bring the simple Word of truth in his hands, with his heart swelling with the work that is before him. It is then that he will become like a comet, blazing forth in the dark mind of the Indian. This diversity has been one of the great means of retarding the progress of im- provement ; because the missionaries think that they are hired, for £50, or £G0, or X80 a-yoar, to go and perpet- i KUUOPEAN OHSKRVATIONS. 817 uato the particiiliir views of the (leiimiiiiialiori that setit thorn ; whereas the luihaiis do not even know that there are sueh views. Wc want the morals ol" tlie (Jospel ; we want that kind otinstrnetion wliieh shall open heaven itself, and let down the j^entle stream of Uod's j^raee, and which, instead of difluHinfi^ diseord and conlendirip; ele- ments, shall hind soeiety, as it were, in one, and teach men, for mutual ^^ood, to labor side by side, in unfolding the bainier of Christ, And now in reference to the cause which I have to advocate before you. Ever since the first settlement in North America, cmi THE GOVERNESS ; or the Education of Circum- stances. 12mo., cloth. 75 cts. " One person is more, and another less, the creature of circum- stances, but no one is altogetlier independent of them." KATHERINE DOUGLASS; or, Principle Deve- loped. By S. Selby Coppard. 12mo., clo. 75 cts. " This story is a domestic one, and chaxmingly written." AMY HARRINGTON; or, a Sister's Love. By the author of the Curate of Linwood, etc. l2mo., clo. 75 cents. " If other love wound, this falleth soft On tlie tired heart, like evening dew ; In life and in death, in sorrow and joy, A sister's love ever is true." V J. C. RIKER'S Recent Publications. i THE LIFE OF SILAS TALBOT, Commodore in the United States xNavy. By Henry T. Tuckerman. 18mo., cloth. 38 cts. "Mr. Tuckerman has rendered an excellent service to our historical literature, by the pubUcation of this pleasant and weU written volume." THE ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. By Henry T. Tuckerman. 12mo., cloth. ^1. " This is a new edition of a beautiful and popular work, written with all the author's grace and richness of style and clearness of thought and description." — Boston Courier. THE EMPEROR JULIAN and His Generation. By Dr. Neander. 12rao., clo. 75 cts. « It takes in the entire range of the history of the Christian Cliurch as well as the personal history of the Emperor."'— Commer- cial Advertiser. J. C. RIKER, has in press and will shortly publish : STUDIES AND ^TORIES, from Chronicle and His- tory. By Mrs. Hall and Mrs. Forster. Freely Illustrated. HERBERT TRACY ; or the Trials of Mercantile Life and the Morality of Trade. By " X Count- iNG-HousE Man." Designed for Young Men.