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1
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
ItY
LOUIS MOIIEAU gOTTSClIALIv,
I'lAMST AND L(JM1'(I.SKI!,
CnKV.U.IKK IIP TllF. (illllEllJ OP mAIlKM.A THE CATIlcl.If, rllARI.T:^ 111 . .IND
i.lD.N MP iiiir,f<rKi!f-i.iMiioiiiii ; mk.miipii up rin; riiii.iiAUM.rNii!
»oi;iErm:< up imiiDPArx. ni;w youk, u.iva.v.i,
KKi i)i: jANEiiiii, KTc. mc.
DURL\(} Ills PROPKSSiONAL TOriiS IN THE TNITED STATES,
CANADA, THE ANTILLES, AND SOUTH AMElilCA.
PBRHEDED HY A
SHORT RIOGRAnilCAL SKKTCII WITH CONTKMrOHAXlDrS
vIlITIClSMS.
EDixnn nv itis sister,
CLAUA GOTTSCIIALK.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH I!Y
ROBEUT E, PETEKSOX, IM.I).
"Wo soo that nothing is wantlnpr In tho wurks of Ooltsrhalk, iii'itli.'r viiri.'iy in ilii>
sn1i|('cl< troatfd of, nor nri,i;hiallt)' of stylo. Ho nicrilH llioii. ii« (•uin|i'>-'fr :iii,| ;i~ uitUt.
:i si'iiiuiitu place ulougsido of the groat masters of modern art."— A. Mah.momki,.
P IT I L A D E L P IT I A :
J. B. LTIM'IXCOTT & CO.;
LONDON: 10 SOL'THAMl'TON STREET, COVENT GARDEN.
1881.
^4i
^\l-
n\'^
0-
,v-
'-t*
r
\^^
Entered according to Act of Congre««, In tho yoar 1881. by
UOHKRT E. PETERSON, M.l>.,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress.
'0
A
W-
,^7
THE CITY OF NEW ORLEANS,
THE BIHTIIPLACE OP
LOUIS MOREAU OOTTSCIIALK,
m» Volume
IS DEDICATED BT HIS
BROTHER AND SISTERS.
(iii)
CONTKXTS.
lUOCKAI'IIlCAL SKKTCII.
t'lIAl'TKil I.
r
I'arriitnsi' ni'il Mrtli— Minlcnl pri'rdiity— Pi'licnfolH'.iltli of liisinntln'r
— lii'iimval til I'artH ('lii'i.itiiiii — Mnlhi'i' aluniii'il liy luaiini; tlic \ii,'ni.i
— Uicit Mii'iirisi' to llml it <viis till' rliild — father's iisnlvii to liavo
hill) tailKlil liilisir-— Alli'nlotii 111' till' lli';;ri',-s slave iiid iliilil — i:!-
froutiTy of liuliaii — lU'tuni to Now Urlcaii.i
ClL\i'Ti;U II.
Mr. I.i'trlliir, IiIh ti-aclicr of iiiaiio — Mr. Miojaii, tonflu'r on violin—
llaiii'l |ii'oL,'iTss^l'lays oi'uaii at ratln'ili-al ina.-s — I'liaMi', from imiio-
tioii, to iclati' Ills sii '.ss to lii.-i luollii'i- — Ills llr^t coiu'i'i-l — (iieat
suci.'i'ss — l''atlu'i''s ivsoliitioii to scinl liliii to Taris— Coiu.'i'rt liofoi'is
dLi(aitiii(.' — .Viiucilotcof .Mr. liarrau'l, tho liainlrrssi'i' .
•i'J
CII.Al'TKR III.
Loavi'H Ni'W Oi'li'Him for l'ari> — Arrival in I'aris — Ilalli'', liis (Irst mii-
siral iirol'i'Si.or — Allerwanis ('.■uailli' Slaiiiaty — lli-s lovo for .Mr. Sta-
iiiaty — ('oiii|iositiim tau^'lit liiiii liy Mr. .Malnli'ii — (itlior stiulii's—
liitroiluiM'il liy liis j;raiiilamit, tlm .Mar.(iiisi' ilo la liiaiiKf, to tho
I<Mki' of r^alvainli ami llo' DiulicsHi' do Xarliomii-, Diiko il'l'Varro,
liollisiliild, I'Mouard Kodriu'in' — Oroal iiiciiiory for ii.iisii' — .Musical
iMiirinotiTliny .'ipplii'd to iitlu'r studifS — Coiu'ort, Kan /nii/iiiil, at tlio
Salle rii-yid — ('mild .\iiieriia jirodiiee an artist.' — (ireat Hiiifcss^
('lio|iiirs iirediiliuii — Coiieert at ."^edaii — llitlierto playi'd only eoni-
liositioiis of lieetlioveii, .Mendilssnlm, Liszt, Tliallier^',- and ('liii|iin
— Writes ' Daiise Ossianiiiio',' ' Les llallades d'Ossian,' or ' l,e l.ai
ilu Pernier Meiiestrel,' • La Orandu V'alse,' ' La Uraiido I'Undu Con-
cert' — AiU'cduti'.s ..........
A* (v)
31
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
tturu to Pnri/-Hooom..s intimate with Rev. A.lolpho Monocl-
K,>tuiu to 1 u Monod — Concert for workmen of Mr.
^'"^^•^"'^'^^I'f ';L,I,op 1 al been burned _ Account and criticism
Sn'^u'l^^MuS^- Presentation of address^by workmen to
liottschalk
PAai
35
CHAPTER V.
Mr Plevel Erard-Caricatured by ' Cbam'-Anecdotes-Journey to
'^wit'er and-' Le songe d'une nuit d'6te-Taken ill at Roushes-
C V/certs a »4onHva-(rrand Duches. of RuBsia-l'nncess Weyma —
O K^ V^erdon for hospital a-r the ^g' ^l^o^Il^^l^iSd n
hi,n_\oti.'e in ' La France Musicale,' by L. Encudier— Lrititib,ii b
Oscar Commettant; ' J'arisian Press,' by 1 '; -^'^f ' ,f^; '^'^'''" ^^"^
I'lnstitut), Escudier, Fiorentino, and Theophile Gaiitier . •
42
CHAPTER VI.
Return from Switzerland to Paris-Leaves for Madrid-Visits Bor
,le lux Pau, Tarbes, Bayonne-Dinner given to him by Monseigneur
Domn't Canlinal Archbishop of Bordeaux-Notices of press and
criticisms of artists-Concerts for benefit of the poor . . • o
CHAPTER VII.
Arrival in Spain-Concerts at Bilboa-Concert for ^«?f"\«f *:):°/^i:
..ored— Called before audience seventeen times-A ^'l^'^ ' " " f'p
»'r„ep -injury <» Li. f "5" l^^>:^S^St2
celebrated bull-tighter, Jose Redondo with *'\\,f " "^'^^i^'^Lcaves
Montes-Presents by Duke and Duchess de Moiitpuisar i.cavc^
Spain for Paris and New York . , •
59
CONTENTS,
VU
PAOS
35
42
CIIArTER viir.
Arrival in Now York — Rarnnm's offer doclinid — licavcs fnr New Or-
l,.,^,is — Concerts in New York and Pliiladi'liiliia — Conperts at New
Orleans — (iold medal i)resented to him — V.eturns to New York —
Concert at lioston, and news of his father''! death — Leaves for New
Or'oans — Pays his father's dehts — Publishes ' Lai.t Mope,' etc. —
Eighty concerts from 1855 to 1850 — Death of his mother— Returns
to the Antilles, in company with Ailelina Patti — Composes 'Colum-
bia,' etc. — His rest at Matouba — Other pieces composed — Acain at
Havana — Organizes a great festival with eight hundred musicians —
' La Nuit des Troijinues' — Created Chevalier of the royal and distin-
guished order of (Charles III. hy Queen Isabell.a — Arrival and deatii
of his brother Kdward in New York — Max Strakosch's offer accepted
— Eleven hundred concerts given — Leaves San Francisco for South
America — Arrival and tour in South America — Lima, Montevideo,
lUienos Ayres — Concerts given for iH-nelit of Fren h, Oerman, ami
English hospitals— (iold medals — Hio Janeiro — Marked att. iiiion
from Dom Pedro and Queen— Attacked with fellow fever— Visits to
Emperor l)(mi Pedro — Soiree in his lionour at Emperor's pahKe, San
Christorao — Emperor's delicacy — Kindness of Emperor during his
sickness— Public reception hy ch-rgy of Imperial College of Alcan-
tara — Concert at Valenza— His last concert — Faints at piano and
conveyed houit, — Illness — Conveyed to Tijuca — His decease .
66
54
CHAPTER IX.
Notices of his death— His funeral under the cnj^trol of the 1'- ilharmo-
nio Society — (Jreat lamcn.tation in Hio— Hurial in cemetery of San
.lose Uaptista — Orations at his grave— His intentions aftirr leaving
Brazil to visit Great Britain — On receiving news of death his sisters
leave London for T.'ow "i'ork— (^ottschalk's body brought to New
York — Conveyed to St. Stephen's Church — Funeral eehdiration —
His bixly, with that of his brother Edwanl, conveyed to Orcjnwood
Cemetery — Monument erected by his brother and sisters
POSTHUMOUS CRITICISMS.
GOTTSCHALK A9 A MAN
GOTTSCUALK AS A COMPOSER AND PUNIST .
79
80
59
VUl
coy TENTS.
NOTES OF A riAXTST.
CIlAl'TKR I.
Fir.t vi<it to Cnl.n-llavan.M -Forts Morn. niMt ( .■>bn,.,'i-r stoin-
„,,„.. ..m.-ers-lu.-iaout on tho >toa.u...- iVoui Now OrloMUS-C o.mts
M ,U- Ca^snto aii.l Malaiiorta— Mc'tin^ of thf counis in ^paui— mu-
' ; i; , ,u.i,l..ur,._Firs\ .vonin^: in llavaua-Kn,lisl. travoU.rs ,n
,, ,i,,. ,„. ,Ji „iu. ,„ t,av.-lU.r. in their a.-.-unts ol ^'•--^^ "' "'^
-U'ln.-s aiwl ,.,mn.rt-i..viU..l to pahuv by Marshal ftonaiio-
Opora of 'I'.t. ChaniiKtr,. Cul.ai...'-<iraiKl concvrt ol >"■•"■'>;'""«
hl.n.lro.l i...rforuu.rs-h>m„M.s,. lahuur i" P'ttn.}-' '' "l'- 'I'rV'
irounos ,.xiHTto.l at Havana-Trimni.h of 'I ra^-.ala-h I.mI ot li.l-
viata Ol, th'. lacli.■s-l■:nthu^iasn. lor ].a (ia//.a!UKa- 'artRM ol 1m .jz-
zolini an.l (iaz/a..if:a-La farto^i-Strilo r.Miow.Ml WU:c,-n tl.o
parti.'s— lnt,.rf.MviRM. of autlioi-iti.'s— Trip U) Canl.-nas— Kxi-or s .ma
i,•aa.•^vith riut,.(l t>tatos-No(.-cssith-s of a t<i.a.ii>h city— < hurch
an,l thoatr..; of n Yank.'., city, h..t.'!, ..hnr.-li, u<■^^^y■^vrv """;.•; ""'^
i-on.vrt hall— Con.-.'rt at Canl..nas— K.tnrii to Havana— liilh.;ul-
tk'S of the road
89
CHAPTKR II.
(• .n.trv of tl,.. Antilh-^^-Iiitcrior ..f Cul.a— Su-ar pIant.ntinns-Tr..at-
„„.nt" ..f slav,..-l.if.' .-xt Cayn,ito-l!ats~Hooks_ ,.• ^■i;-i'-)\ ';'t
r..n,l,-rs the J^pani.ar.K unhappy-Hnihark lor M Ihoinas— ,st. Do-
nun.'o an.l its assoHati.ms-Tah's at tie 1„tsi,1 — Bras (<.ui..—
A-;7ssinati(.n in !^t. Doniin-o— .Instifkation of tho no^jro.'S— Ksrape
of faniilv I.. N.-w Orh.ans— St. Th..nias— hivit,iti..n Innu -ov.^rnoi-
t;,,,„.rall-Thr...>com-,.rts— Hv.'ntofth.M.v.'nin-— Ch.-valu'r.h.h
— Kiv.U.ri.'k Harl.aronssa— Hiivcaiu'ers— Harhan.ussa s tow.'r ami
f,„.,,.,...;_X,.f;n, ir.a.litions- St. Thomas :. fr.'.. ymrt— Th.- .•x.-hanp^
of Vh.' lwon.nlin..u' — A nav.al station of ^Mvat inii.ortan.-.— U'llow
fev.T— Town of St. Thon.;^s— I'i.mr.'s.iu.. IV't.'S at th.' l'..rt .)l I'ran.o
on tlu' inau.Mirati..n of th.' statu.- oftli.' i'lnipn'ss Jos.'plnn.'— ( .mc.'rt
—\'\<\\ to Mr. I!, at I'hi/.n.'la— li.'.vptiou at I'.in..'- C.n.'.'rts a.li.s
—IWrc.'hma (la C.t.' femi.-)— Hs.'ap." of Ih.' Ihisati lannly— IL'siu-
talitv ..f th.. .■r.'..l.'S— Ma.la:u Ihisati— dp.'ra troapo want.'.l at St.
]>i,,,.;v_l','„lVssor of pian.. wanto.l— K.'t,'r.'t on l.'i vinix Martmi.iu.—
I'ian.. m.-i.h' liv ll.'uri ll,.,/— I!,'p..rts of my .h'alh- Fnn.'ral h..nia^;.'
tu the bard of'tho tr.ipicn- Ucsciiptioiiof biipcrb culourud ungravaig
'JO
CONTEXTS.
i%
89
i)'J
niAl'TER HI.
PAiiE
N,.w York onro moro-Pix yavs lo„lisl,ly H,...nt-r.oan>inf: at ra,.,l...u
_Cn,u-,..-,l .MV.s.-lf in a ,l,.s..n-Liv,- l.k.. a hrnuit-lNH.r l^nl t„i .-m-
paninn— iVM-i-ii.tiuii oC .■al.in ami suiTn.in.lin- s.',.n,T.v— ..tMl"'so
1 Krnon.ls mni.- • l.a Man-lu- .los (Jil,am..s,' ' Pnlo.na, • < u ,m>b, ,
Tastoivlla .. CavalluMv,' M..ui,..ss..,' ,.f.-My va,v'alH,n;l hi.' u-
stn,v.l In ni.— l.ivin;,' tl,.. \\U- of i,ni„itiv.. ';">'""'"— Z, J ";'^*: '.',''"
_<„akos.l. oll-.TS an .■n^as.Mn,.nx-l a.v..i.t-lNH.s.v and v,.utl.-
Con.cit at N.'w V,Hk— lii.l.anl llnUiuanan artist nii.l a -.■ntl.man—
Tlu. artist is n,..>vl,anais,.-Tl... ,.r..ss .f tlu, ''"i"; ^''"'■^- '; ';^;-
tni-s— 'Mun.uuvs Koli.Mis-— Kn,i,t.n..ssnl liu.uan liinKs— 1 nst-'">-
c...-t at N-w V,„k-l.oss,.>-\Vallar,.-lianuuus o.!...-l'atl... s
,„j,>,li..,..-I....-iv,. for N.'U- (h-l,.aMs-|.:Mtl.us,astu; '•"'■'■l",",".'-' ; [:
isian rrimtatinu— Tlirown ,.n n.y own n.so„nvs--l'ai.uly ..l.liga nm.^
—I'av n,v tath,.r's ,l,.l,ts-Tnur in NfW Hn-lana-l' .rst r,v..,i,ts at
]V,ston-l)is«mrag.'nirnt-koss,s-KrtMrn to New ^ orl.-k.4 .'i
front tl.o Connt,.ss .le riavi,'ny-llall-s „llVr-^.uv,.ss-llal iml)-
lislH.s ' he lianjo- iuu\ ' l.a M.rrli..,' .■tc.-l!ap>'l .al.— kasf Hoi-,
first sola for liltv aoUars-lIall ,,urrliasca it troii. tl..^ i,ul.lisl,w tor
,,,m.. i,ri,.— lunumso uuiuImm- sin..- soM- N.'W V,rk as bnllia.t n
isil- as in l.sr.T-l'on'i-n journals on til.- V •— M..st ^..v,-rnni,-iitMn-
t..r.-st,Ml in thu fall ..f tlo-'r.-iniUi.— It:nor;auv..f f..ivi^;n.-rs ^ouv^^n-
in- tlo- Ui.it.-a ^tat.-s-Iii.tan,M.s of this ,;;iioran..--l.a.-uiia .n o,i.r
(■ivili/.ati..n— liri-uoli— Cuiui-aiiion of the .k-sert l..llo«s luo t.. .^.■^^
Yi.rk
CHATTKR IV.
-Flour
Chifa'o—Citv raisoa from tm t.. t\vv\vv f,.rt— ll-.u.- raism--
ana --rain "at ilu.-air,.-Mihvaiik.-.— lianu.-r ..f '(in-ai llol., in tlie
Dav'— Si.uix niassam- in .Miiui.-sota— I'l.ilharuioni.; s.M-..-ty, tli.-atr.-,
an.'l ronc-rt hall at Milwauk.-,— F r-ii.l. .'.-k -iv.-s a ai"n,-r-Ama-
,l,,,it— C.invov .if wouu.lo.l— M>.'lii.ii.ali.iii ot Mi^s
aiii
tours of ''r.-at I
Ni..litiii-al..s— T.M.-.l..— Kap- f,.r conv.Tsi..n— ilauall.-n (( anada —
EuHish s..l,li..rs-Musi,-al fast.- not ,l..v.-l..poa-.s.-v.;r listen to to.
ju.i.li,— IJi.hopof Chi.-ati.i-M.Ul.-. I'atti-Air.vtm- in.-ia-nt at sta-
ti„n-I,...-khorl-kin.-..ln i.ai-a.uis a ymn- soMu'r .•.m.l..mn,..l to
d.-ath-St. I,.mis-J^.H-i.-ty.tivia.-.l into di.iu,-s-C atlo. u-s in it-
inajoritv-ti.-nuan jM-ofc-ssor ..f niusi,-^ Maladroit imitation <.t th,,
.rn.at i.'r..f,->sor of li.mii— S.ap n..t iiifonipatihl.,- with i:rmn>^--M;x^>
at Father Hvairs .hiuvh— Why .lo.-s Ih.- pri.-st -.-t out ol tin- k.-y .—
Hacr,..l nuisi.— S.-r.-nn.l.- to (ioi.oral H.Uh-.;k-Aui.oiino.s ^r,-at vie-
torv, ami also a sa.l .ml— fin.-innali-l.il.ia.y ..I doling M""^ '^'; r-
cantil.' Asso.-iati.ui— ('..inm.-r.-.. of Cin.-innati lu lar.l aii.l hams-
Visit sla.mht.-r h.ms.— Ja.-ks.urs d.-f.-at ..f jiauks-^-.-y.-uth r.-;:!-
mont of N.w Voik-l!i..t in Ualtim.u— lia.l '"'^""'^-p'!";'''''; I
cert at I'hilad.-lphia-' l.Tnion- -x.-it.-s gn-at ,.,,thu>iasiu-A . r
con,.-.-rts in X.-w York ami I'hila.l.aphia l--v,. ';''■ ^^ ''~'''";r .';"-
Auxious to see aiiuy of tUo IVtoiuat— luoideut ou the way to \\ aaU-
CONTEyTS.
p
.„,ton in 185G_Wintor of ff^-£^:^ Jl^^Si^S:
Jability-Trains tak.n for tn-.-ys- n "^^/.f ..,,,„, ,,„urs-Car
1UU-.1 ui. for k.tch.'u-Me. s t . '^ ^ j;,^, „„,.„Ho.l as „urs...-l'.UU
,,u„.lr-.l and fifty ^^""^^ , I ery-Couiforl of sleeping cars .
volunteer corps New \ork aimuiy
132
CHAPTER V.
convent of tl.o Si.tor« of the VisitatJ^n-IJanglUer of Oen-.^^
^°!!l-r,.sentation l^v the lady supen^'^J^^^^^^^^^
ll.Her-Titiens, Negr.n., "^^'^ ^,"" ' ^'^ t vLiutiful in the world-
;„• Music at nul-l'-lP ;;,'^- on ot t > -J ^.^ ^.^,^,,^ V^'T'V?'^
Concert at ^^ ""'""a'""-";^ ">i, ,„ .> minister, I5aron b^tuikc-l, Mr.
Merrier, Mr. de Tassera ''« f^^ ^e inati-l'lavs tl,e nat.onal
Blon.lel, Belgian '"''V'^''', , M hVcoh-lHs person and cha.acter-
air of each <">'"try-- '■•^'^''l' "'i''^'^Xur annoyan.e-Anglo-^axou
Cneert ah.ne at ^Vor^ester-AmaU .^_^_,^^^^^f ^^_^,^,^.,^ p^
„>ethod of playing m«s,e ^vludyjj 1- «^^^ ,^,, f,„.,„, ^ judpn.en -
-it,„s_Knglislnnan hetore a picUir., ■ , . ,. i,,^'^ „msic hall—
A So-Saxon lacks the r::}:itS^^^^S^>^-^^ -«""""* "^'"^
tuccess of aeronaut '"^t 'attle of K.thmo ^ ^^_^^^^.^,^j "-"""^""ons
York volunteers— Mr. B., aturiur, "" yy^^ ]?.•» marvellous
llMr. n. forn.s an Italian "V-^^Ji^^P^ll^ec-md cc.ncert at I'rovi-
to let said to cost five thousand do'aTf _,,,,,,,„.,„n_p„rtsmouth
S::;i!^rilln.an_^l.ns.. r.T-;3 l^'Lrnun>-l-ortiand,
a eharming town-1'relty girls m^^^^.^^,^, ,,f j,,,,, .luan-^u-
, Maine-Magnificen concert-^a^^^^^ ^^^^ i^„i,t-t*).nngtn;ld,
„i„i_Mistake of the amati-iirs •"»• ' , ' jUirlington, \ er-
Massachusetts-Matinee ^,^i:;'^^;^^ii,[^e^-n«vrid Fn^-^ oi ^
mont— Hishop Hopkins— <^>"/"«^.-;_st i^^^^.^ence River— Visit to
iCcanaclians-Montreal-La C^^^^^^^ ^, , f Boston
Alvargo Island-Kaugh er of '^"7''" „,„,re_auel.ec-' L'Ar.ge de-
\ ss Reed— Captain Blair— Lord l^*}"™''^ , "^^riests— Convents—
-^V^'f Kalkbre mer-Streets «'r^H*l,Tc „.«lians-Iiitern>entof
tLi.i:^i ^-r-'^nlJuS^'^nusl -^evl^ - the Esplanade
a s..rgeant of ^^^'^^"[r CanrltL v cabul^ 1>"""'>''^" ^""^^ 145
■;^.SXS:^^^S^^^ of Parliament . •
CHAPTER VI.
.Billad to tho moon,' hy Alfred .;|"^;i;:\i;Jt-Dion Rm.ci'."^^^
F uchman-Kingston-Toronto-^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Batavia-Indian t""'l'--^"\« ^^J^ 'l^chool gins' pKiiic-Klnura
—Most heautiful country in the «oi 11 ^, ^.frio— Roni.— I tica —
Zoswego-Cominerce of OsweRO-L.il- JJ t;^^^^ i,,,i_ Reports
Charming town-( eneral »UCk an ^^^.^,. ^.^j^.^e Er.e-
ahout McClellan-Clevelaml-bJi;iay,^^^.^^^^^^_^^^^^.^
Madam S -^
132
CONTEXTS.
, «<• a:.,^iilTr nlfivill"' — Scntrh molo-
Sinsnlar noticc-Tho f^^l^^^J^SS^uS' W y-l-.t.i fight-
jA
PAOS
-San.lusky-W arrant ''f '^" ^^-J^; ^^ f ju.l.Mu-nt on a.t-Win.l
Monclu-,'-lnto"so oo , at i^.\ ^^ •^\\_a,, .Li^lu-i. of Cin.innat
Lat..s-Whi.'h most o be f^-:'-*''^/.'^ •':,„, Hiblfs-Inaianap.
ati
I
,i,_Major un.lor arrest-*. • ^"< w ^' '" ^_,,i,„. .rtiU.ry-Hat-
145
at that i.u-si, uii^ ""*'~'i"i":„'V.,lo— Suoc.-ss at Chicago— Clii.-ago niorft
CHAPTER VII.
159
Last
• „^Tiipir number — Effect upon me —
of conccrts^__given •- Their numDe .^^ ^^^^^^ _
,,st tour o^ «""'^"* .,f!;f\vish 1 give three concerts in one day-
Tlionglils of t'|«/^'f "f ~:, ,„,,,,,iitlH.d it-Uomantic cause ot my
Theflr>*t i.ian.^^t who has ■;<;»';7;^. ^..ly a fasliional-le luxv.ry,
f,aur.^A clan, for ^^ '"J" ^ l^^''^4^t'',°,,o^,^ appreciated by many
and music an _«g;;««£^^X dillnhe'rited bV thought-Lauu-r-
__I)o not write lor these J""." „_„,,„ nhvsical ulienomenon—
tine'B description of ""'^'^-S" Neura ^i^^^^^^^
Its in"««"«'^-^'^.^7'^;,°lr Phn^deS Year's Day -A
Smith"— ' lleruause,' why composed
CHAPTER VIII.
SpringneU (niinols)-9t^ichol^^<^:;^HbnU^: -;! --
\ifi;ations-Concert ^^.^^'^^S "^-J.^^^^^^^ of Schiller's
ron from New 'Jrauada-Soldiers prescm ^^^^ ^^^,^
. WaUensteiu--Squint-eyed e^'""'''r^,'^"™ecou to General
who could make tweuty-flve percuss o^^^^ ^^^,^.^^,^ j„ ,..,
--riii^iJiSrfluS t^£clt|nt^
S^^S^^l^ tir^tl^'of SS::e-iiorror of slavery made
Xll
COXTKSTS.
mo cmanr'niat.' my nosrroos
tin- loiistitutii'ii— f^'ii'lii ''■'"'
CuloiiL'l EllnWdilh .
Vu-rnu'iii/i' Imt niii" pr'niii'l'', tli:"' "'
ii|iiiii tvvi) iidlilicMl < rrots — No illu-
Mrxiuiaria— M;ush:ill House lloU'l—
ISO
ClIAl'THR IX.
V, ,„. ;UuhMnh-rs to • Mason's Musi.al ^^'l''''^/''" '-'' 'r,'' , ,;
,"■„.„„,. Jonruar-l^anry but '">'M-'''lH^-^';>'"r, ^;' '^ ' I
' bnanliu^'-s.hool, tbo n...st iut.rrst.nf,' . .Mu.-ut- l.a>t 1 -
n ,1 ' V's o,;ila-Tho ral,.i.'at..,l IWWIiov.m.-TIu; -ivat ,l,;a,l ! 1 ons
f, • ,v I Ul,' • iu,..s .ouunitlra in tl,..ir nau.- :_Cho,„n-l.as nou-
t' l ' o art-l-U.l.worsbiiUMM's-IMuHoriciausulHy/.antnnu-
'n .' 4r a ■ A,|.,.r>.hus-lloinnan and b,.e.-lV,..tbov..n, l„s. ,
,1 1 ■ ' — «-.piuiou of u,ys,.U-My ...sist-un- for l.lt,...u uioutb.
tin 'pet 1 .i;-How avoi.l beenuuMj; brutah.e, _( omu,,. n
tha ol ■^'•''1' ' " , >^, ,„„.k„t l,nnks-l)isr.vct tnomls-lb-n-
at Kbuira-l'iauo fui-bi,l.U.u-Sun,lay at < 'M"; M^'.^ -';/ • f^^
1. , Tl,,' ui-esrnt uTation of Heedicrs— W illiauisport, 1 a.—
t (i, ; ::;^\:.u.s-.u..u.>-al Scotf s opiuiou „f Lee_-I>..spaleb tn.m
t - (i ■ Tno.- of l...uusylvania-Volunte.T u,il.ta,-y \"""'--\ 1 '' "
;.,s-lnit,.,lbytlu.i.: liativd of thm—lireat eons en.at.o -1 a-
loio , ..tin>/or...anizea-Coneert-MaaaUi StrakoR.'lj-lnniuy
, , > ' t s-Hariii-Carb. Tatti-Wbat a fan. ly !-.\u ineoni-
: a e vo m^ ,Sn elos.es tbe ball ou tiptr,e_A,lyise,l ,>ut,,n. o^
I Ut at llarrisbup^-tieneral Hwell-r^tuart "t boes u >-
Won.au-s i,aa,inatio„-IK.r .nlb,eu..e .'''/"''-,♦':'•; /'^.''t.
Cmau.-t of rioutberu wo,„eu-Stron-nnna.'a ^^, ui en <'* '^' ;\ 7
,Ha-l''eu.ab.s of ^■.•u- 0,-leans-My fnena s s aten,ent-(.em'ial
t er-Mi«s Beauregard-Laay De Forli-Cha.'b,ttc Corday . .
lOO
rTIAPTRR X.
Williamsport-Fresb telegram ^^^'^ ^'-^r'^!'-^'^^'.^^^ \n
.b.feuee of capitnl— Mv eousius-Oue m tbe ^."•t'",'";, , .-M,..
tbe Snubern lu-n,y-lla,erstown in tbe 1"-'--'; ;:_,;; ^^^.^
rat,.s-()n tbe roaa to llar.Msbur^r-hveiTboa.Mn^' t,u \
,1.,1, „.e do ^-Onuvrt out of ..uestion-Koad obstn de < , .;| J^
t,ai„s, wa.ons of all .orts. eto.-Train stops ''";"•''-.' . I! ^^^
over tiio Sus4uebanna-Ch-eat ansu■ty-^Vomen, dead N^^tb in.ut,
coyTj:xTs.
XUl
ISO
lOO
do not .VMS,. tnlkiiiK — TinMl of snsr.-ns( — Mrnltosrl. M.'u ,m,
Amrlia I'Mtti, ana nivsi'lf pM .mt of tl,.. ,M.s-Station ..MnnnlKjr.l l.y
inountMiiis of iniiil<'<— IHscovi-r my t«o (.i.-uios— CUirU.Tiii- ^..n>—
'11, IV,' tlioii^aiwl uicM at work on tin- iiitiviiclmu'iits— ( l.i>:y I'liuu
tlici.iM.lv, 's at til,' disposition of tlic (ioviii..!- for .l.-f.^nc- ol llo' city
_Tn'.ops from N,'W .lcrs,y an,l N.^w Vork-N,w York "'■portor,—
S^nsational n.^ws— Pinner, rr,.nUcm,'ii 1— The poor l.larUs— ( attlo
,lriv,.n t.,wanls iIh- monntains— licnoral Milroy .l,.|cat.'.l_-A vonn-
man insl killed on llic fortilh-itioiis— lieport coiuvrimin M,'( 1,'llan-
Knovv M,CI,41an— nl,l men, uomcn, and eliil.lren 1,'avin- the eit.v—
Mnrmnis a-ainst l'hilad,.|phia-Heauret;ard-s faetoinm and harl"T
_l;-,i„.,n— His sin-nlar history-.\ little Spanish hoy adop|,.,l i,y
me in Spain-Thc^ tocsin sonn.ls— Hands parad,' the sti,'ets— \\ hat
d.H.s military .■nthnsiasm amount to .'-Which si,U' is truth ?—
Jclhrson Uavis on om^ sid,', and Lincoln on tiic other, order thanks
"to the Almi-htv— The panic i,i,.,vases— A pMn^ral s.u,r, ,/,</;.»/—
All kinds of vehicles put into r,Minisition— I ram leaves in a lew
i„i„„t,'s— lireat c.iiifusion— Curse my ^-allantry— l.ad,i,'s fiive no
thanks for court, 'sies rcndercl— At Philadelphia— heave lor ^c■^v
Bruusui.k— t'oncrt at N.nv L,.n,h,n— l>ra\viu- tor riMrmts com-
ni,.,„.,.,l— Irish resist— Uioters hurn railroad hrid-e at ll.-'em—
Troops (.rden.d from Morris's Island — ' Trihiuie ollice Imrned —
rn.s,.nted \vith hasket of ilow,'rs—lMtchlmi-h— Nashua— .N.'ws ot
takin- of I'ort Hudson received— Maiuhcstcr— Forced to give up
coucL'rt
!08
CIIArTER XI.
0„ a tour— Madoinoiselle CoiMU.'r, Bri-uoli, Cnvlo Tntti, Helnvns,
Max Strakos.'h. Ashforth— Behreirs weaknesses— D.'Viv,., ".''vy—
A hh-siii" to hot(d proprietors— A tempest ot snow- hockloiu—
Yimm- ladies' seuiinari,'S— Cultivatint,' the mind and improvm- tho
tast,- "imperative amoiif; Amcrh'au women— l'r,.fer our system ot
o.lucatin- women to that of Hurop,— A sleigh nd,'-Its .lisaereo-
al,l,,„,.ss— Winter triu' season for inspiration— ^lacrilic,' mysell—
Kn<l of the ride a seminary .d'yoniit; -iris— (iermans an,l spectacl.^s
-Curiositv of the' vouii- j;irls-' Mahlen's I'rayer'-l'cmae ser-
vants— Harvard— Temp.'st of snow— A-ivahlo surprise— Uciyil-
i/ation '-hash ju.l-ment and a.uiv,.ahlo surpnse-Keturn to tho
(.,^,.s---<trakos,di w-_< nearly fro/eii— Ihav,^ to pass the night at
liarvard— I'iftv or sixty i,ass,'U,L;ers— Disahled sohliers, '•<'•;—'»-;■
min.lcl ..f a storm at pea— Terrihle ■■oudiLiou ot thinus— ( )htain
hnhdngs at the postinast,.r-s-The postmast,.r and his launly-
I'overtv, hut not want— Kurop,' cannot nn.lerstand th,' character
of the American fanner- (iood night— Condilh.u on awnkmg— I Ic!
,,,,pp,.,-s signs of cold wint,.,— Muskrats an,l trout-Sick yming
snhliei— Anxietv- for him— Nol'h' hearts ui tins world ot ,lollais
an,l cuts- Sull-onn- from the cold of men and ,.attle— Milwaulo'e ^^^^
imijossihlo ..••••••■'
imposs
B
XIV
COSTEyTS.
CHArXRR XII.
r*iti
" [
N^,w Vo.k-llnrtl..;l-> 'M'^^J ' ,,., „i,,„,r„tic city-Can;-
_Fi-fia.mt Hall ; <''^'":'* '';,'„ .i,v_lts f,.uiul.T-Lain.- "udi-
e„co - Sunday - J"l "« ''; ?l^,.,p,..,,ts from the d.'uf and dumb
Institution for D.af '^'' . " i^^* a^^f, .luml.. and Mind-S,.r.nK-
_L..tt..r from 'f "'^ •'^;//,^ , '"ac id.-nt whilo ,.laying-Arnve in
fleld-Sniall .ui.lienc.--Ui n» a a,,,,.,!,^,, ,,nn.a .lonna-
New York-lKd.ut of M .« H^^^
l>l«y ..uatuor ..f »f i,''"^;; ,7,^ . [JEpiHcopalianH an.l Lont-Stam-
ism disa,.,..ar.nK .n ^^^ }^^^!^^ .ir s-H.'-apiM^aranc. of BrignoU
ford-Two larn-' coll.'g s [^ >"""]; ^^ Mario-Ma/.z<dini-('l.aract.T
_Tl.o tonor imr ^'''^^'''''"'"7^ 'u ^-"lono ' Buc.rss of-To what
ofhisvoic.-Wlmtid.a8eB M^^^^^ .^ ^,.,,„„.l „,t f
owing-T inud.ty "^.. »"!";„."'"■•."«./ tenor-An oyation-Kx-
'Soinnambula-Iftt^ ft y" "'^ . J „rign(di'8 ^^^ ,,, i„,a.l and
citcn>e,.t of the ^^^^^-^l^^.VYl^^'^-.iVph.'rablo conccrt-Sil-nco
horns-llis fear of ^''%,'''' *Z ,,,,„,e;t when- pim-s not encored
„.1„,„_" Short and sweet — Unly '^"'"^^^ •• " .._.> <.n„i"_" Charley
_MuHical celebrities who ''^^^o succeed.^ in. -ham ^^^^^^_^^^^,^^ .^
such a one, f.rst-rate 'I""" ^^ } ",?^,, t^, at table-Manners of
eredulity of A"ier,can8-Manm^ ^^^^,.,,^„j j,,^ ,,,,
men, from being " too nun y " P ' " 'y ^^k_j,nrL'e audien.'e—
Bha^neful .legradation-MaUnee at ^ ;^^J;"'-;,,_it,t..rson, Nev.
Departure of 1 irst "'^b;" J"^ .'^'^y i'^.^.t place in the world to
Jersey-Nine t.ckets-I^^^w J^J^^ey P^ ^^^,|,^^„„,, .-xperienco-
give concerts .n - !=''':'» I'^^^f^^.^.^; philosopher right _ Concert m
Ignoble observation - *;'*'„;''^^,, ioermau opera broken up for
iJ'ew York for benefit of ";Y"!""TiY^,i "pUia_Lil,eral movement
^•ant of money-Fine <^""'^'^'*/^.i;"£Jderson-Reasons for being
making way-New York, l^^y.-^^^Ss everywhere-Unfortunate
proud of hi"'-N»'-.^\'»l^-^*"i^"^ue M_-Hand8omest little hall in
U-''\':^^r::^::'^:Z^:^^r.., intelligent, ..legant-
CHAPTER XIII.
, >. • v Travelling music master-Arrive at Norwich-
^Xfetr'^A^^mirJ/TuSces himself- Singular personage-
COSTEyTS.
m
FAOI
'hrpo
I'S llf
rt in
ics —
Caiii-
loVi'Il
n tlui
aiiili-
tdstoii
(liiinb
l>riiiK-
•ive in
iiniii —
iritan-
-Stam-
rigiioli
iractiT
what
act of
11 — Kk-
iiil and
^ili'uco,
I'licorud
Jliarltjy
alii's in
iiicrs of
to, li'sa
lieiK'o —
11, New
vorlil to
•ieiice —
ncort in
1 up for
lovt'inijnt
'or liping
rortuiiate
e hall in
■U'Bant —
k, 1 h>ve
scgara-^
toil, play
' Honin,
—Sunday
. 231
JJorwich —
rsouage —
•MuRie Valo'-A pr.Mt-r amatonr of whlf^kpy than of mu«lo-N.-w
ih a ;■ r . -.-V:.!..... Variaiii, Ivlward Honiuan-Uj.hanl
uiS':!';::.. -S-1^^^
I, .ai 1 avi ur-().i furUmgU-OtlUvrs say no ri.ht to ..„ntn,l
t .^,1 ; .IV ts of wliiskfy-CoiuxTt at llaltiinor— .ov- for
1 1 . ,, , t« ......i.h'-Tlirir lovo for art-Cou-.Tt at WashiUK-
; . '" , „ (•,„i...„-i__\,lvciituro on roail l)ai'k to Wasliin;;-
olr'si^^k^hT ;:[ U " • Iman :.;:i"u.t_.'on..,.,.t at Washin.ton
' Wrts w t 1 1 his la.lv-Mrs. hinooln-hin.-h. .lo.s .mt «..ar
;r, V i 1 H— - '^"'l 'laughtor-Concrt at Washington-hi.n.-
t in t.(i n •;,■ 1 (irant and statf-(irant ma.l- Li.'Ut-nant- ...n..ra l-
M :aui Variani sings ' Star Hpanglod "-"-'-^-l-JJl^ i; ^
fill,.,! with Kol.li.Ts-rart.'ir.', l.ox..», and onhrstral fetalis -i.'^i'l'"
? 1 d V, onstra.ioi._Syn,.athi/.o with South-l.av. for , -"^ ;^
Lu....!! i.r..v,-iit.Ml s.-v.-n or .-ight tiin.'S from giving cone Is tl. rt—
I^^ , ;; ^1 'of Ilarrishurg-^'on....H at >'<'"^t-honso-;.^M|W o
of th- adics-1'iani.sts, howarf l-Charnung audi..nc.--( 'v"" » >""
ou rm I hv the gong-A rcginu'nt of v.-terans-Adv.... uio of
M l.nos.'l ,. V..stvali, 'the Hup.-rh'-" He n.-v.-r plays hut hm
o n .nusi.--Liko th'e white man in the "-»'<' ''.■fj::"^-^^,"^
affliotinL' gift — What Berlioz sai.l-Criticisin — I ach -1 - Mr. Ko
Ou-1 V t-l>.scriptiou of Lam^aster-Chnhhy-fac. ch.Mr,.n-^ 'r-
1 a maiwu.rs-Change of weather-C.-ncrt at 1 l''^-'^ '••;;.«- i;^;
,.ruor and Hecr-tary of State Prf^-'^-'*'''^''"'" '';;,;'! [,"of
iH.twcn Kast and W-'st-lVniisylvania more polite tl'-|"/" '««■
; l,r!uiant sisfrs-Hethlehem-ViUageH, towns in >"""- ■;^-
MagnifRvnt conrert-Moravian ^'hurch and seminary-A «ag.,r A
proSr of music !-U'it little swearing and drunkenness . . 24.
CHAPTER XIV.
Concert at Easton— Artists' room— Ladies and gentlemen of Bethle-
lem accompany mc-' Cradle Song' sung in the train-l'att. sing-
iig high tcno. -Young girls dancing to late hour-Leave He hle-
le^u_ Waving of handkerchiefs from seminary -Sad s'Kl't« «*
Btaton-- Contingent of conscripts -Sa<l partings-The (}ern|an
consc pt- " Dear Catherine, God, C.od bless thee-_rhe right of
these fatlu-rlcss families upon us all-Arrived at Haltimor.^My
lo^ fr en s the Curletts-Sunday at high mass-' Agnus Dei sung
f "mJ"-- -An ohl maid who did police duty-The m.s..hievous
one-Scapegraces-Fortress Monroe-Oath of li.lelity-1 low taken
!^Shoemiker stationer and music seller-Mawkish English songs
developed hy tl:e war-Mel,Klies adapted to t^';'^'^''*'''^ .^^^S
ruined spared tie ' Mai.len's Prayer'— A confession-' 1 he Uattle
Crv of E'^ on.' " >ght to become our national air-Sadly heroic-
r^'t"f--Vu,gm nts, how formed-Slander and calumny-The first
f^l The V.cr nursed hy the jealous-Ma.z.olini-Ovat.on to Hrig-
no i-Boe hoveu aa symi-honist, as composer for the p.ano-Beet-
XVI
coyn:yTs,
rviB
I f iiiii.ili'iiiT' — isn III;;, rciiii.-v n .im.i — ■ • ^ .
^.r . Lr or .1... .own plav. r.ma.y on Ho; lU.l. t''!- '-;!;;
Wil ianiMiort-l'-nnsvlvMnla ll..' li.li-t ol Hi- Mnt..- ,■.■! linnwiy
S^liakustli— I'ul'liu will lio flioiilf.l this ev.ning •
CHArTKK XV.
_Au -Saxon iu>n;:iMatiou not M.tli.i..ntly a.fvj.-l.c'av, .^ .u-
!,„■ _\ nionn,...--T>o not iH'li.'V in w< " w'"' »^'^'; ^ '!""•
1 ,r~_So g a.oH-I-is/t, Clioi-in, an,l t!,,. (i,.nnans_(l,opm'«
^:;S:';o;,;^.;"-.Cy-l^,.ular in ;. /,;■-;;:.„;;- j:[,;:,';.£
.,,l„rs-Co".v.t at l!rn..klyn-Str.n«ay ,.n,l ''' l^' •'^- ', ' ''^
\rtwl iM'ih't IS muinMii --i i.i.^ ..■•■ ....
couiijany iUul'S
. 2G4
co\ti:m>i.
XVU
ill-
-All
IH
nill-
IliH
n'crt
I out
.•Ul'l
n I'nr
n,i:iy
U to
[rish-
luticr '
lull —
toll —
■■uiia-
Cllll-
iiilm-
ili'iirs
N.^w-
tlii'ir
Hiiii's
a.lv—
nil" ill
lli'l|illS
'. 'M'"'-
iiiiiary
laii.l—
S|ili'ii-
inilV—
rnliccrt
I licaril
lli>li(ii)
-Wliat
ii-a,-.'.!
lllrl- nil
[ildarll-
itti mill
atrint —
isi' vlio
jichl'iMlrt
artist a
ifts liko
tlio iii-
;iL;ali(iii<l
rilAI'TKU XVI.
r.titi
ll.i.k trn,„ tli.M'.m.'.Tt— n.'nutifiil .■(V.Mt „r rl.-nntly .lr..(.>..Ml l;i.li..s—
l.;„,.|isl, ..Ilir.TM <U;-^s,;\ t.. atliart atl.nlinn-K.K.M- n.-tliiiiK ni-ro
il|.|„v,l thai, a fMsl.ini.al.l.' I':n;;lisl.ii.aii, mil.'-*-' it !"• I«m lasl.Km-
„|.l.. V •;>l,iM...,-S 1.1 .-"'■.■"■t, Mil ,,i.r..s ,.n.„,v,l-->un«l.in..
I'Mlti— Wliat a iM'antifnl tiling iii..,li.iii.' iHl— Aniv at 1 ivM-,tt—
|.i.-l,t vari a-..— MM.Iauh- .!,• I.a-niup— Invit.^l to tak- luiwl.--
nTki.oVii iiain— Kn,lia.,t,.,l 1,„„.,._ Its ii.istn.Hs- An u. an ilo
i„„„vssioi,-(iraii.Maii-l.i.Tof V,.s,.Mr.i,.s-Mran,l..loi. tli,. ImmKs
„,;,„, St. |,a«ivii,v- N,it tn'atr.l with r,.s|H.,t-l',iivious iii-.tlMrs—
liuhiMi-Ma.laiii.'M.Tliii-Wliat lias 1 on. ' l.,.|— ron.v.t-.Not ft
I,,, aiLli,.. I.i.t svn.pathot'i,— Anvst.Ml-A.liHirahlo caii.loi.,- of
lli.rinsti r tlo' |M.a"rr— .liistic.. wU a.lniiiiislo.-..,! |_>i,l,.n— Imii-
l,a,k tVon. Kin>.'slon for Capo St. Viiir..nt-Stiakosrh •"''■■■'-•;'''<-;»
..ai.si/.,..! srh .,.r-l{.niin.lo,l of tho .loatl. ot a l.orso in a hi. Il-l.t
_I ■init at faio f*t. Vin.oiit— A lamlloid's wc^honi.— li.a. Ii W ator-
,„«.ii— (iivo n.ii.vrt at s.^von o'clock on aoconnt of wo.kin-nici. rt
l,all— TiriMl ,„.t— rtica— Hoantili.l .•l.iir.lo's— As.vlm.. l.ir tli- m-
Naii. — lloa.l iilivsirian oiio of onr iTioii.ls — Coiiroit and warm
iiu.licnr.— Sloop "at ho-pital h.v invitation of tl.o .|o,|ni->pii itnal
,i.a.iilo>tations— Til. haunt,..! hoii>,.-Tlw fw.. y..n.i- ni.M.-Un.M.la
,,„„„„„„itv — liivit.'.l t.. visit th.Mn— 1-ill.MMl l.nii.lr...l a.rosol stiaw-
l„.ni,.s— Svia.ns Ha.l l.ot.'l-liailioa.l .i-.wsinj.'s— A provMoii.'-i
lor Am.Mi.aii raiUvavs— Syra.nso always t;iv''s w fi k"""' iiii'ln'ixo
—Osw.M'o ri'inarkahl".. lor its siU.ati..n— Alwa.vs j.lay with pl.^asiir.)
at (isw.^'o— 1).. not coii.lii.lo till' r.MiMpts p„,,|— On.- thiii- ni.moy
.■aiinot nil.— <i.'n..va— l.ak.s of Now Voik — A .lysp.^pti.^ Kn;^lisli
niiisi.ian— Aiihiini— Channin- l.attalioii of yoiin;; ^'irls— " 1 have
not vt hoar.l oiio air"— Tho t;olii'ral who ivcou'iii/os Imt two aiis—
A rolatioii l.v oiioof niv friomls— ' Ilonio, Swo.-t Homo — Anlmrii —
"lioafonin-'ra.kothoniakos with his piaii.."— i » rritns :— ( atholio
cliuroh — Kx.TiahIo nuisii Uooln-stor — Clianniii^' town — Mionl'l
liki' to transport sonio of my anilioncos to Hmopo— I'.nmiiiio typo
in tho Cnitoil Statos siiporior to that of Kiiio,,.— Tlioir iiilln.^ n
„„.„_Most .•haniiiii- tvpos of womoii at lioihost.M— Tho oloniont 1
foar Mil' most in niv loiic.rts— Joy of tho i,„in,snr,il Mr. X., a sup-
position— Alwavs 'tho samo son-— Thoso who h.iv th.n- to loso
;„.„ t„„is_M..nto Mayor uiul Nowtoii a fool-I know an ass .— \ ol- _^__
tairo's apostropl.o • •
. 277
204
CIIAPTKR XVII.
Loavo IJocl.ostoi— liooomnionil ' Conoivss Lall'-Airiv.- at Lo.kport—
I'oi.rs rain-1'Vw at .onrort— IM.I my h.^st— My pri.i.ipl.— W ho
ii.it a trno artist— li.si.iration iiiiloponilont of will— Nt out ai;ain tor
Caiiaila — That .ui-s.mI p..n^' — Custon. ovorytl.in-— Aimtlior l.-at
torn fn.ni tho troo of mv Uliisi.ns— Catlioli.- ohiiivh— ( oiitrast ho-
two.Mi tho sormoii aii.l tho fa.ts— A .Iroaiy month ol May— A <lia-
triho a.'ainst fashioiiahl.' miisi. — Not as olovatnl as tho iiii.si.' ot
tho Clnisty miiistrols— Noglfct of our a-ont— Insult— Coiivoisutioii
XVMl
COSTKSTS.
PtilR
Hi, .!. •' M>.!va.oi,v, say in, tl.U A,.|,..i,.a .van ll.. -;;• ^'^^ ';
is^a 'nit .,1 with Ur,.' - Tr,.n..,.au ,l,vn,,.s lus atl-nti-m o
I:;:;;,vAn'!:.■i^an-l^^v,■r-Ki.■ora-l^..,u,,..•.-Ma...unuuv..-^.la-_^^^
tun -(iriilas ilclight in iiuirtio
ciiAi'TKU xvni.
T,.n.nt,.. Cana.la-Snv-H. ..on..,.r.-Cunv,.rsatin„ ^-'^l--:^;;J^:;Z
I), ., Imi.'IwIl .'riitlnii.'ii— S i.irk til .(/»"»/•/'<■"/"■■— 1 "ii-li ' lU,!"" \
^. W ,.n ti.U.ts shunLt U- sol.r-' John Marvin,.,,,, h •;;;:->-
: r," ,ir'-''t'ull,vt,,r of- ll.r Ma.i.Hty's ..,>st...us - wo l^a ...«
His:a^ss;^>;i'!r;;;-^^^^^^^^
^ T''-^;':r :::;; ;i;;^l^:;:;;,s:,!;*':ri:rr n:;::i,l;ri;r r •
, i„„l..,.t.-nM. Pop- a n.arty.— <ia.il.aM> a In.'l.way rol,l„.,-
kv w i U., au,lsi„i ...ixi.- K.v,K.h,,ronuM,.,a.,o,H_>a,n,.
|„.;Vr CaMaila-A.-aiu travllin,' att.r Ion, ■•'■P"-- 'l^T ,, [
r,.i,os..-Charity co,„-..its an.l la, y P''»''';"''%'"-^'\V ^'l,,,,,,
A so..iat.,l Co-Mpany of Artists,' T.^ta an,l ,v, ,•_> lam. A -.oa o.
^^^;J' ^.^'^iV ai l^ai.vu,/(<.maaa)-lnaioul.ms s.vn.s-^
■ssof tl.r Kn.'lisl. .(.rporal, ii.,tvvitl,stan,ln.!,' a i';'to too Ixjil'-'-
oss oi in. i-n u. .1 1 ' .,,.,,.. 1,1, ,,„.,. „,,i,|.r Haiinahand—Uos-
S;;,:„r.;;ji:xn;ir-.";:7^::s;s.;-M;.u.-N..r.„mi.,.iu
r
io.\n:.\Ts.
is9
\n,..ri,.a-Wl.o mor.. or 1-.- Ilk.—Ti.knor \ Kl.l.U. Ilawth.-rn...
, I , l„l H. VVI,itti,.,-lM.O,lH ,u..l ll... Ii.l.lli;:.'..! ,..•....".■...>•..
.■„ll...tl,mol i,ul..wia|ili^— l»i,k.'iiss i„;.n.M.ii|.(-\Mial lik.— Il.m
;,,,,..,',,„ ,.n,l MUll'li.i.V Mi. 1 Mt_Wlnl II.Mn„ ,„,.s,.....H UM.l
\,.w V..ik .ln,.s iH.t— M; 111.' N'w Voik— n|M.n. m ^"^\,V'; .'^7■
,.,„„;,.,t_'-l'.Kir liillr lliiiiK!"
CHAI'TKll XIX.
„„r .•lvili/..tini,-.\,iMt.Kri.ti.' |.riv.i.,'-s_M. iMVuur ol tl"> ^rU h^.^-.l^.m
" ..vn.ptin |„.>uliar.as..s-Ain...iran last- omm^' l.i, . .•-•
TI ' l la in' of a p.„,..ation of ynMng prls-ri,.v-la.„l out:l,l o
Jw , Jnv,.n„.o\^.llini.ifl,on.inU,..r.u.,.as.^^^
,,„„i;.in„ of tl,iM;;s in tlo^ fnit.'.! f""'-'^— 'l;' ''! ''
vi'ix'il in liliTa-
;;;;:;: o 1 '-v,;niVh;.Vo ;u.i„i,.o,i m. a.. v"-..in.._H,., out
£:.,,! :,_.i,.,.,U ...rnfast .,..tw,.,.u tlo. W..st an,l .In- '-^ "--^
.ont.n.pt fo. fa>l,ion an,l ,„.atn,.^s-Chi.a^'o a way> 1,.. ctN .1 o
Vv , t-Moon.,>n,l Sn,itl,V n.w hall inat>j;n,-al,.l-llall ;■'■•' ',""■;''; ?
di., .0 ol.l-'Tmnont llous. -S.., ,1 ronn-H la.y.. l.vll.ant an,l
;.h,sias,i,-Tlu..ann,.rwl -ns s,.v...y-. nv. l.msa,. a^ . of
nraM,^ lan.l-S.M in lot twrnty tlionsan.l hoal V , V" ' '"'
n i.Mnti.' ranal-N.'W Ara.l.^niy of Mnsi. In'inf,' Inull l.y ( n-l.N-
X„'i t u- i. s « itl.out ..nf;aK-n>..nts-Attark-.l for vlay.nj, ( Inrk-
^ ;;« i-ianos-llon-s, ..IHor not ..././, in .na.t,. o, ...n.,. .-
Ti.aUM.ru' ana Hranl's ,,i.„os-('h..pin an,l '" --V"' >- ^^•^'' ' '
iV, ' r^l.l{,..,<,,n^ «hv— Wliv 1 like Cliirk.'iinK s— Nin.ln>k>--no-
M i, 1, of .n.-lM,oi,_l>o,nlation-rHKl.tlnl a.-.m-Lan-
: n u ' n 'i"hl.oM>h..oa-/;. •:>,>. !>.• l...o,ia-Tl... rr.M„lm,an an.l
t :onIa.^-iaa.,o_Fi,lUin, with tlu. ina ans_WoM.,^y H -
Tl„. Ml.tlorn. -iv.s a v...-li-o— Kn.i.M ..t.on to II.- A\';t— W 1.' >' ."
i,|:;_ri>.'i..nati-l!n,..M ll-mso. ,lirty a,.,l ,l,.ar-lM.yMogno,..y of
WVstern pcopK— Thoi.- fi-.'o ami .'asy l.-Lavionr ....
312
tl-vf I
XX
coxTEyrs.
CHAPTER XX.
PAng
Krcntzcr sonata of Bopthovpii— N.'Wsi.ap.T rriticiam— Mozart Hall— •
Kxpcriciii'c of tlii> r>w<.Miish doctor— Kxccssivc cold—' Moiit lilaiu-
and ' Vonng M.mis Association' at Detroit— !St. Lonis— D.-t.-ntion on
i..i;)r,)H,l— tV)ninion roads— Tli.' trne cause— Cold int,'nst — The ' Lm-
(IcU House'- Hhould lik. it better if— Morelli and I search fiir a,
restaurant The artist's intention— Inspired artist like a key-hoard
— Siirin.'tiehl. Illinois— Audience listen, Imt too late I— Hypocrisy
and vanitv'— S.'nniui at St. Louis— lUoomiuKton (Illinois' -"Do
vou want the portrait of Chuckle and his wife .'' — Two poor nuns-
All chauiliers taken!— Lie down on the tloor— .loliet, last year the-
atre of a s.'andalous action— What a tour in the W.-st reciuires- Fair
concert at Joliet— Curious incident— Dohler relates his interviews
—Set out afiain- Tho placard, caution !— Christy Minstrels' Ailver-
tiseinent — The deail horse covered with placards— American lures
— Kalamaz. ' (Michigan)— Excellent hotel— Charming concert— Ue-
spectal.le audience— Leave for Ann Arhor— State I'liiversity— The
famous singer, (ioodstock !— L(mdon, Canada— Concert— Canadian
receipts— The 1st of .January— Mr. Kdmiind Harris and faiidly—
rrais(> of Morelli— The telegraplii.; dispatch— The knight of the ra-
2,,,—Leave for New York by first train— Passports reciuired— Ih'.r-
rislmrg — Coiict'rt in court-room — Siberian cold — Artists' room —
Dayton (Ohio)— Kxeellent andienci — Fine examide of cold on hu-
man nature — Thi' letter at Hethlehcm— The concert at Wilmington,
Delawar. — Mu/.io visits the music store-^My violin— Headache —
The letter from the ladi.-s- Want of delicacy— Two stones— The
tJascon— The paralytic lady and the Englishman . . . .323
La
CHAPTER XXL
Toledo— Oliver House, one of best in the United States— Xew York-
Heard Miss Kellogg for first tiim — Charming artist— A matter ol
pndc — Powers, I'aliners, Miss Stebbins, Church, JSierstadt, etc.- -
Poe's tales— Cooiier-Irving— That cliciue of imbeciles— What they
say- l!ai>haei and Fornarina— Hyroii — Let mo be understood— Rem-
brandt— Victor Hugo— Dickens— Works of the artist not responsible
for his private lift — New York Philharmonic— Poor Poe — TIk- mute
ins*ruiiients— Dunkirk— Conversation between two ladies— AiKithor
amusing thing at St. Louis— truth, why art thou not pet ro-
l,.,„„|_Sui)erb concert at Rochester— Hatavia— Erie— Struck with
a snow ball— No enthusiasm, reason why— Erie to Lockport, off the
rails- Invariable i)hrase of the conductor— Lockport faithful to its
ti-adition— rtica, as always— Visit.'d all my good frien(l
II,.. K Visited insane asylum — Aunt Libbey
-Her dress—
The Queen of England enchanted to visit her— Playing and
in<'in the Asvlum— Aunt Libby plays— L 's eonsternation-
■ii'S-
-Tho
lady betrothi'd to (Jen. Washington, and beciue.ithed by him to all
the'presi.leiits of the riiite<l States— HulValo— Charming audi.'uci'—
Syracuse cold— What the newspaper says— What warms up an audi-
ence—Commencement of concert like lirst stage of a grand dinner—
coy TEXTS.
XXI
Audioncc and artist — AVliat tVatuvi's 1 — My Sappho— What a fall —
Leave lur Calil'driiia with Miizic ai'.tl wit'. — " 1 will make a trip U>
youth .Viueriea" — When are vou fjoin;,' .' — Iiupressarici ami the l>la-
carils- Oh; ho! 1 thouirht you had left — nisapiioiiitecl fellow artists
— Su'ilii, Jenny hind's afient — Tlie predestined om — Farewell .on-
cirts at New York — Hnihurk on third April <in hoard of Ariel —
Parting — Sea siekness — four hundri'd passengers — .Most heteroge-
neous assenililagi' — Singers and aetors and I'nited States uiai'shal —
Judgi — Lawyers — Senators ami doctors — Ministers, wlio jireaeh
ol!i(Tally ami otlicioiisly— Flirtation— Twu hrides— liife on hoard-
Bill of ftu'o
33G
CHArTER XXII.
Land in sight — Aspinwall — Negro jiorters — Negress frnit selle.s —
Howard hotel and the piano- '"rain leaves — The road— Fanners'
huts — Arrive at J'anania — Lai.ness of inhahitants — Houses and
cathedral, all dilapidated — An adroit jirestidigitateur — Apathy,
laziness, and lilth everywhere — Steamer Constitution — Heat exees-
s,ivo — Isle of I'earls — I'earl lishing dangi'rous — Not slejit for three
<lays — the 'squatters' worse thiin niosciuitoes — •]? flats' — The
sU'wanl — l!es<'iuhh's hotid at Ht. Louis — Dull monotony on ship
board — Heat like that of a lead foundry — Air, air, 1 suthieate I —
jvpiseopal servile — New bride appears ofteni'st wher<' husband is not
— I'asseDgers liml their levid— Singers quarrel — Harmony among
musicians impossible — One hour and a half at table. — The dinner —
Between the, courses I go on deck — (ieographical dictionary taken
for a Bible — Honeymoon and threats of a revolver — Acapuleo,
Mexico^Tako in coal here — Indians ami eai s — Bay infested by
sharks— The little Indian girl — Had lu<'k to me— //cnHasn cttnillin)
looks like a pin-cushion — Houses, streets, and cathedral — The
' l'adre"--Th(^ paper above the image i>f a saint — Hx-voios — hnnio-
bilitv everywhi'rc — The guard house — Questions — I'on Diego Alva-
rez—Louisiana Hotel and its landlord — Hut on«^ nati ui, humanity,
out one cinintry, the globe— Thi! landlord, an old Frenchman — He-
-lunts all his alfairs — What he said of the little prodigy (Jottsehalk
— l!eeonnu<'nds his tavern — The thin waiter — Ah 1 I'aris, sir — Dis-
covery, the landloril's wife The son of Dim .luan Alvarez, his wife
and (iaughter — How dres.icd — Steamt>r in sight — Tln^ '(iolden City'
— "Lee has snrrende'ed"' — Lincoln has been assassinated — Wilkes
Bdoth — Atl'ecting sigl t (Ui board the ('(Uistitntion— Women those
wl> > show the least 1 egrets — Tin; judge weeps as if he ha<l lost a
fa.>..„- — All the men crushed, overwhebned — Women's irrational
impulses — Men and women compared — The female s ssionist —
The meeting (11! board— Presided over by Judge Field of the Supreme
Court of the United States — An a])ostrophe on Lincoln — Hymn
of the Hepulilic by the Italian singers — I play my piece * Union' —
Tog — Singular impatieucc of passt-ugurs
3-19
xxu
COyTESTS.
CILM'TKR XXIII.
PMlB
Shall bo at Pan Franoiseo to-.lay-S.al I!,„k-T!u. 'fl.ff Hm.so -
) rt 'A .■atru/-Th.- m;,,!,!... ,1.,..'_ Hay of Han iTaiw-.s.- o-
T,.l,s.-..n.lstU,. hays of Na,>l.s au.l <^;"^'''"''"\M'l''--;'';' ;'-,'-
_a; n! a'll'', S„ral,.s, l.hry.u-Cow.ls hav. only mstnut-K.nj;
i„'m- I'liiliil"' an.l Louis Naiu,! ,_llow tl..' i>oiMilanty ol I.oms
Sol- • 1 'i^m-Mr. Ba.lg.T, fln.k...in.,-s a,'..n.-fos„>o,,obt u
i;,r..l_Tl,.- anst in .<an Kran-isoo-Tl... ' Cosnioi-ol.tan a n.a^-u,-
,i,.,.„t ...li;ic..— Cliiikoiin- i.iano in ladirs' ,.ail..ui — llo^ wait.Ms—
Tl , hi! of fan— Not .-asilv .•au^ht-Hrillat f<avar.n_( o„k,.,y,
i sJ Inul paintin, in ,l,o rnit,-.l ^^ta.,-s-Tl.o In.Uan an,l ,.,ano
v.. 1, !, „f lioston— Uo vnii un.loistana my con.panson .'— 1 m)
1,,.:; "sin.n.r in tln^ worl.l. now known t-Tl,.. In.lian, ahvays tl.o
,a ,n-lVs..,i,,tio„ of San lMan..is..o-Tlu.alr,^, ohs-Ma^juHv-
Zov a. ,1„. lu.nnaplno,Ut..-Cales ".oro nupulUvnt tl.an H,os,^o^
v.:,v io,k-<'alil'""ia win.— Markets of >an l-.-an. is. >— ^uuts-
M .s . .opp-r, silv.T, an.l ,,.1.1 in,.xl.austil,l..-Opals-MKns- of
,, r. l.Mun-Minin- vi.tin,s-Hxp.M.s..s an.l n..v...--..n,in,i. ...... ..;s
. i tl„s.: wl,..^.n.l...tak.- nunin^-Ifnto ..f int.-.vst ,n C al,t..,n,a
_^T Ini al I)up.mt an.l his lawsnit-Mr. Li.'k-li.vat a.lvan... u
r..;^ S:.., -m!.ss.s. lU.l...r an.l Lin.i..rb..r,..,-Is ..;>'-;■-;; - ;
,l,.;„,„l '_CoM,-.-it> at San Kian.is.-o n..v.M-s.Knv.l.'.l-<»l'^ H 'H . u.l
S„. k.'s.h-l'anl .Inli.-n-fin.u. ll.,n.ish..s-M.ss A.la M..nk... -
T . rhin.-s.., Sam K...', .Irn-ist-My intr.Hlu.tn.n to l.nn. lus s .s-
, ;„nLTh.' ri.h .•hin..s.. an.l his ''^u.,ht..v-A...m,^ t., carry h,.
oir-B..si.gc.s put t.. llight-Slif is s..nt hack to C h.na . . • JO-
CHATTER XXIV.
Intro.ln ■...! t.. M. .h' Cazoth, iM-.u'h ..„nsul-rnf...t.u.at.^ oreatur-s
'^ ,: ,1.,. (•r,..sns,.s..f San K,-an..isn.-K.vn..l. c.ounu..,..al -oum.
-Small nuo,:..r ..f p.vtty w.nn,.n_Magu„e's <M'<""7?'; ij ,7'!'
n.t a.lmiiv V.T.li tl. ..x.M.ss-l-'i.s. .■.■p'"s.'^talnm ol -h. nan at
P u^i -Ma.lan... M..nn....h..t .1.. Barival-'l o .ntuMS.. an op-.a a^..l h.
■ .p..s.. ..n.., two .iim.r..nt thiu,s-A.vu.,. »'> {-"''^;;;; ;:;- J^^ ;
i,,„ ; „iani-t— ■ Tannhausor- arran-.'-l by mys.'lt t-i ■ nrt. . n pi mos
nvonl-.is an.l lin.lshis piam.n.nt.— Ilis .•onnt..naii.'.'->.'.r.'t at 1. st
is. .TMl ..!■ snppos,.,l t.. hav.. I n-Mass at Kn'u.h ..Inuvh-l 1 o
.■ts fro 1 Auv..r.'n,._A s..rm.m whi.'h w.,uM hav.. h..,.n fjr.. -s.^i e
^ ::', !;:!li-";v.:r,hy..f.h.-.^..h..li.M-..!i.i..n-Vir.in ;r..y^V^^^^
t n-it..iv-Thc h,.t..l .l.Mk i.upu.l.M.tly pon,p..us-l I..' iMvn. h .st.m
raut-kl-l.er-Ugly town-Must inho.i.itahlo u.ul sa.l.l..st I hav .,■ ov or
i
COyTKXTS.
XXUl
siMMi— Kimilv from N.«w Orloaiis an.l yonii- Lonisi.iMi.-uis— Snn|lay
,,,,, X'O -'-111 '■"■• ""••"' aays-lMVMl, iMli.Uls au,l tl„. sn.nll vn-
L-rharitv. ,..t„.rosity, a,.a kiM,ln..ss_L,.av.. tor .ay'on ... th.
St.,.',— Wliat took plan, .m tin' ,-„a.l— Ai-nv at Dayt.m- 1 1.. h.ill,
i..,w li.rl,t,Ml-.-U,..- ai.,li....cc-Calif...-nia n.i.i.Ts-.'.'tH.n...., -In-Jit
LMy lia.., back .ploi.ai.l— The It.d.aii girl aud licr lovui— ^.ul l.it... o,i>
302
CHAP'Ili:il XXV.
L,.av<- Vir-'inia Citv— Uud.'iic-srt at stap'om.',.— Amialil.' r.M.i.lo !— Tli.i
lmasra';M.-<»CiMistia..ity!-Th,- l.uly at tl..- back onnplan.s-
'ni.t.b Flat' a i.ivtty villa-.— (•......■.•t-\.ulb..io. vt'iy <im,.t-
'Tak.'i. in'.'— l':ir,.ft..f .•.•itai.i i.as«a,t:oH— Wh.at I )..•! ivo b,. y—
Artisti.. ifinora....-, a.. ..xa...i.l.- of it-S'ick for tl.r.... ..ays-.Nowb.M-..
h, lu.-op.--..l'l lb,, so isolat,.,l a. I....'0-Wbat 1 bav,. ."■;■;-•;<'
:"untrv'of ...o.n.y not tbo on. for artiHt-Kro.u ; 1 n.,h Hat' to
Nova.la Citv-A.li.m t,. iny spbvn-' (i.'ass V alb-y ,a.ann.n^— N -
va.laCitv-l'in,-s,.a,'iousl.ot,.ls-C,.nc...-tatT,;n.i.,.ran,... Iball-lb,
a«.li-m-.-ll.av,. ah-,.,a,ly .'iv,.n twolv. con...rts.-l af;.n,. a..,l,l,u,.,'.
of tl.,.«,- trav,.ls-Califor.>ia a l.nn.bi.g -T.- tbonsan.l ••""""
tbinu'H wantin^-I.,siv,. o.. st,.a.....r Julia for Mo,-kto..-\\ ,a«r Hot,'!
_St.K.kt,.n .•..s...nbl,s f;a.'ran.,-..t„„.. a small s,ab.-( onn^rt sinal -
.hi.l.',. r„,l,.rbill— I'astor llapp,M-s.-lt— N.^wspaiu'r c-onchi^b's tiat
"I^^l,. not know how t,. i.lay th,! pian-.-'-Insane hosp.t.'.l— 1 !»•
((,.nnan ba.-o..-('olfnx-' Who th.'.. is th.s CoMax .' -1 .-s.int.Ml
on n.v fa,, -lay with a spl-n.lia ,n..,lal-lt. .l..sonpt,o.., a., al th„
details of th.- pr,'s,.ntatio..-lts ,.o:;,'.-()n b,.ar,l tb.- ( ,.l,.ia,l,>-
(Vast ,.f (',.sta Hi,.a-l'...>'ato.'y~\Vl.at not :-L>'ft San l.ra..,;.s.oou
ti„. iMli— ll-s-it suir.M'at;..-— Ma-niti,.i.nt n.oonli;,'bt s,.,-i...— 1 n,' pas-
..........s—Kinf- Ka...,.ha.n,.ha V. and the San.lwich ls!MU,U-M-.n-
do/.H-Cuptain CM.k-Kanak n^litri-m- Polygamy -Nsfis a,.,l
a...'ht,.rs wiv,.s-(iu,vn Kala.ua-Only the n.oth,;r win; .......jbl-s
—llm.oUiIu-Vi.-toria. sist,.r of pi-.-s.-nt ki..g -Lnilo.'.n ,> th,. k.n;,'
-'ManzaiiiUo,' a M.-xh^an t,.wn-l'ir,"i.'>-« a'.,! y'^'^'i^ ^"'"'■;"^
-\ monst.-,n.s to.-toist— An in.p,'rial s,.l,l.,.r— A,.apul,.,i— nnl> .i
small boi-on-h— Tl.,' Kre.K.h ivturnud horo— Mox.oan sol,l.,-rs— U.e
goner;',! '. — What town depniiulated
388
CHAPTER XXVI.
l'.inaina-Isla..,l of ToIwko— A boat oon.,-s for us-NeKroport.-rs-Suc-
,.,.,m1 in ,.olb.,tinu' niv trunks— What is s,.,.n on th,- i-oa.l— lb,. oM
t„«„— Ol.l .1,'snit ,„il,.i:— liuins, rui..s— Th,-eath,Mlral— 1 h..>tr,.,.ts
_\spinwaU IIot,.l— l'i-,.ni..na,l,. ,m. the lamparts— I b,' l.i\ UMibl.-s
,n.l tl.,'ir ai.iifor.M— A eon.vrt by siibsc'ripti,*..— Cotta-.- pian,., a
hvbri,l-The ..lin.ate— The ,.r,.si,l,.nt of the Stat,— Mis n.otb,..- an
„l,l n -ess— His f.ab..r, hish,ip of Panama— A p.-etty-i.l. .lan-hter
of ,l„.^,ri,-st-Th,. Fr,.n,l. n.nsnl, Mr. 1),- Y— (Vramie a.;t of
the Indians fr.mi Chiriiiui— (iolden ornaments from ( hiri,im— the
XXIV
coyjEyTS.
hnpiiv idoa of the nsont— T?ic1iii<'ss of oxen vat ions at riiirii|iii— Ilor
ril)l.-"tast.'of till- Spanish rrli^ion— Tli.- i.irtiiiv ri'i-iv^i-ntini,' I'lirKii
■ .■ i< II ... «.. I.I ...^. *!..> i.i..>i.^* till
till' <ii>|is! — The
i'it;ni'is — iMifjlish
Inillan l'IiI with
tory (.') — Sii|ii'i-stitious facniiTs — How to hh'ss
]Mii>iilation — rnriviii/.i'ilanilifinoraiit — I)ri'ail>r!>
«ti-anuT—Voyaf;o to hiiua— Holy cargo— Th.' Iiltl
lar-c lilaik fvi's-Simr gi-aiii-s— tiood sist.'is sini; rantirli'ri — lioat
rofks sini'ularly— Caiitii'li'S intrrniiitoil— Ivllfct on tin- I'olisli ami
l'iTuvian''i.rii'sts— The liltl.- Italian La/.arisI— Wliat s.'a-si.knfss is
_i'ro.'cssion at (iuatmiala .luring Holy W.'ok— llorrilih' |.art ol it —
I'avta— Kxtraorilinarv ariailv— .Misery ami lilth— Th- slui. s liiil.-t
—kir.'L't of arrival on passrhgers— Liltlo prii'st h.Toni.s iilayliil—
M.l-'ournifrsrcpU' to thi; aWii.— In harliour, Callao, nowharl— ho
IVrnvian nmnitor--Vrigato 'La Nnmani'la-— I'.'rnvian soMn-rs— I ho
BistiTs ,l,.light.Ml—AiiiM'arani;eofCallai>— Train alMint to start— lh«
countrrffit coin— Waiting for gratnity— Kirst, siroml, ami third
class cars— Kv.Tvthing linishiMl hen — Lima— Ucscrii.tion of l.iina—
F.Miialc il.'vot.vs— Organ plavcil out of turn — Callinlral— 1 he pic-
ture of Miirill.H— What has hecoiiieof it ?— I.iiiia fonmleil hy I'l/.arro,
miir.— The old inanuscriiit— Uuueii Madam Jauo to Maniuis trancis
Pizarro .
401
CHAPTKR XXVII.
Streets of Lima, liow i)aved— l-'ilth and winged sen vengers— Sugges-
tion to the New York anthorith's- Houses and architectiin— Hotels
full— Kefngees— Unfortunate niouient fur concerts— Hevoliition—
Hehels and government- Civil war normal state ol l'erii-\\hat 1
understaml nl>out political alVairs- The oiits against the I'l'^— ' '"•-
ruption evervwh..ri— Kveryhody lives on the governmeiil — 1 ho
government robs her creditors— How the luilitary r<d. the treasiiry
^How the arinv is recruite.l— Arrogance of the military— How they
pay their debt;- What shall I say of Holivia .'-Cause ol war he-
tween Bolivia and Peru— President Mezarijo a ferocious heast— I era
and puhlic schools— " tiod protect us from religious l.herty .
—When thev construct railroads— Hate innovation, and go hack-
ward— Hatred for foreigners— What I sMid— Peruvian character—
The government a niilite.v oligarchy— rnhridled corruption—
Kxamination of Siianish American governments— The people who
cry out against monarchy !— What they submit to— Haltle ol Lima
— My friend Dupeyron— ' Benediction des Poignards'- Letter to
Mr ■Dniievron— A«akene<l by noise of liriiig— The lighting— Bat-
terv of artillery under e,ir windows— What I see from behind tlio
l,li;„ls— A ball'loilged i.i the balcony— Horrible tumult— Battle coii-
ti„,i,.s_lndian imisicians and j^oldiers— O Christian charity I—
Heap of slain— The little gamin— The wounded— The Parisian joker
—His care for the wounded— Dupeyron and the women ev.'rywhere
—Charity, is she not feminine .'—The dying Indian and the monk—
P.il, ceon lire— Sacking comnM'Uced— Those who surrendered assas-
Ki„,.,t,.,l_The revolutionary troops— Screams of the wounded—
Whole ariiiv of Cauzeco deliles— Description of them-No one found
wiUin- to assist the wounded- What do yon teach in your con-
vents'— French miscreants (I) assist with duvotion— Those nice lel-
lows who take the communiou
413
c(K\Tf:yTS.
XXV
PAoa
riiirii|iii — Tlor-
-:t'ntiii.i,' imr^ra-
1' cruiis '. — 'I'lio
iiliiiii f;iil with
.aiilicli'ri — Hiiat
(lie I'olisli iuiil
si'ii-sickiii'ss is
ilili' |i!irt iif it —
li" sliiji's tiiili't
DiiW'S [ilavl'iil —
iiowliail — Tilt)
11 soliiic'is — Tlio
it til start — Tlio
mil, anil tliinl
[itioii of Lima —
•ilial — Till' pir-
iiIimI liy I'i/.aiiii,
Maniuis Fnuiuis
401
>n;:iTS — Sii<;!r<>s-
iti'ituri' — Hotels
< — lii'volntioii —
f I'liii-What I
St till' ins — Cor-
ivi'inniciit — 'I'lio
•ol) till- tivasiiry
tiiry — How tlii'Y
'.•lusi- ol' war ln'-
ous bi'ast — I'l'rii
■,'ioiis lilpcrty I"
11, anil f-'o liark-
.•iaii cliaracti'r —
•il corruptions
Till- ])i'<)pl(' who
— HaltU- of Lima
arils' — Letter to
le li^;htiiif; — Hat-
t'rom liehinil tho
milt— Hattle coii-
;tiaii charity I —
lie Parisian joker
imeii evi'ry where
anil the monk —
irreiiilereil assas-
thi" womiih'il —
111 — No one t'ouiiil
teh in your con-
1 — Those nice fel-
CHAI'TlvU XXVIII.
I-Allli
Kscape of fionie/, Saiiche/— Continue to lirinj,' in the wounileil — Lima
laly altemls the sick— The priest missiiij,'— •• Ah ! little mother, am
1 living ?" — Kurt of ."*anla Catalina not siirreinlereil— Narrow escape
of my piano— A charming youni,' irirl killeil — The Monieiieros —
,\noliier li.itlle piiiliahle — I'rii'il potatoesof the ' liarriere ile Clichy" —
Things lakiii;; an alarmiiig turn — The h>rt still hohls out — The ileail
ami woiiiiileil — Sail elh-i.ls of civil war — Santa Catalina surremlereil
— What will liecoiiie of Us.' — Details of lliglil of (ioiiiez Saiiche/. —
Fears realized as to my concerts — (ianleii of Olaiza— The Peruvian
Maliille — How the ililliciilty was overcome — Compositioiiou ' Le Hailo
ill Ma^chera' — Lve of war with Spain — My concerts limshcil My
success -The super!) ilecoratioii prcseliteil to me — Sea haths at Cho-
rillos — Civil war in Spain — IJaymomli. an Italian savant -'I'lic coca
ami its marv.llous ellects— llov- useil - IJuliark for Islay, port of
Are<|uipa— The ilesert anil t , amhos—Areiiuipcfios— Their in-
iloiiiitahle character — City of .,rci]uipa — Islay to .\rei)uipa a her-
culean journey— The lainliu!; at Islay— Am known— The young
chililreii aiel luilian girl ' athiiig— Arica— La Paz— Tacna— Tr\ ing
to persiiaile iiictogoto Pxilivia — One hunilrcd ami eighty leagues
on mules aii.l no hotels — No ilaiiger— Convoys of silver — Honesty
of the hi. Mans — Tioopof Spanish adorsat Arica— Singiil.irly tempteil
— Ari(;a, its fortilications ami church— A decree of Prados — The cniu-
iiiaiidaiitgeiieral — His campaigns in the interior — Arrival of Indians
from liolivi.i — The cholo i,;' Peru — Soiree at X "s- Society at
'I icna — The only arislocrr'.^y anioiig iiarveiiues ami reiuihlicaiis,
that of wi-allh— What I liiid ridiculous— Pretty women and dancing
— The mecapaiiucna, how danced— The wile of X.— . . .429
CHAPTKIt XXIX.
Descendants of the Incas— Prejudice against the Indians— Tlie wife
of X., a discendant from the Caciiiue iliiascar — Her marvellous
heauly when young — liolivar— Compared with Washington— His
charai'tcr— His" stay at Tacna— ' The pearl of Tacna' and Holivar
— The romance— a" tragical history — Pass the evening with a Swiss
merchant— Charming evening— Invited to eat game taken on tho
Tacora- -Second comert at Tacna— The stolen horse and the In-
dians of liolivia— Triiks of rohhers — False singing of the idd Span-
i<h priest— The aceompaniment — The jdayiiig of the old Indian —
No regard to the key in whiili thi' priest was singing— Plans
(•haiiL'ed l>v homhardiiient of Valparaiso— liolivia o|)eii liefore me—
Tliree hunikreil miles in the interior— Desert and Andes— What
travellers over the Andes exposed to! — Caravan of French travellers
-Crimes of Bolivia — An invitation— Character of the Indians— Tho
port of Ari'-a and the earav.iiis— The President of liolivia, .S'fior
(ieiieral Melgarejo— His charaiter— A sort of tiger— Curious cus-
toms of the Indians of Tacna — Indian hride complains that her hus-
band did not whip her I— Their humility and suhmission— Tlio
market and church- Preparing for liaster Sunday—' Tristos,' a
413
XXVI
CONTENTS.
PAOB
CllArTRU XXX.
ci.l...l to tr..--I;a ^'•'-•'•' •„,,,!::' u,....s and ..iga.vtt.s-- I'l.- Uv..
j.,un....y-' l'..-'l'l<' '1" ".'%,,,, ,,.ii,v MM.ulo-'n..- r,..l.sr..v...c.
i„rs...n,..,--Our t"^;'--!; , , ., ,,,i^, i.,„_-Cl.:..a,.t,.r ot tl.-- voa.l
8..,.v.>,l ui.-Hi>l"t? ^"""T, Val„a.•ai^o-li^•at aui...al..m o,.
l„,^,,l-H.i.l.- an.l !-'':'"•'"-'' '■'Vn' IM'i.al .-l-'.v -f <'l'il'- '''/."^^
M„„.lla..-Tl..- I'^'^f'^'"^- ' ' 'lliV,,. l.-n....i.-au a,.,l th. K..^l.sl'-
Dortor I'l.ill.pi k.ll.Ml aiM ..t;' ,,,, ,,^_TI..' j,M.a..an,- 1 1..-
.n,v...-no.-H ."scai..'-( .'^1 ■>'"l ^. ',,,,, a-Tl.c" u.ost lH'a..1il..l -..1
ArL'.'iitii.i' llu-atre >" ,J' '..?., ts-Tli." son of Dictator Tlovcs of
assays!., an.l ''a''l'tr^''^'»''":^,,r"'i' , !,. of fo.oi;:.. alfahs-KN.U-l
eoiuiuost of hhn-lle.oauos ""',.„ a,vH-Co..st...nati,m at
f„r two y.-a.-s-lio...a.ns m > 7" ,„;'i^;;,... m,!-!..'.--!!!^ >-Mtl..MS
A.:tio.i of th.- f(.r.Mgn.-vs-riic lioi,t.>l,i ^ ^ ^ . . . 45G
Tho tt'iius •••**'
CIIAPTKR XXXJ.
Fovt«.,a.o assasMtiates a Frondunar. '^^^^^t^^^^^''^-
Enrol..— l!-"iomini.ms tal ''^ \''''^;\. ' ,X saf.-uanl of <iti/.'"s
;;;;=^r^nu:; rS^^m^TUe peo,le of tl. Ar,e.Une
C<i\T/:.\TS.
XXVll
PAIIR
Last foii
Willi gdlili'ii
iilili.V "'■II' —
,11.1 hmial—
1 aiiiiy— Our
.•uslom . . 444
T.'i>uWic til.' sink— Till- juiMli: fn'nsury a niil.li ccw— Spauisli-
AiM.ii.im rcpulilirs-Wliiit I — ItiicMms A.vrcs— Tli<' sa.l.li'st .•oiinii y
ill til.' «(irl.l — iM(iiil.vi. I. Ml — Writing! my Ki"""' ' Taiaiitrll,.- —
Ciimt (iioaiinimii to invsiMil it to the piinc'ss— Ditsdii, iiiid • Srvoii
Octaves'— iS. ♦«• ■*''
('(i.NCMTtflON ,
y/.n' — liiviti'il
I'oliiai"'— I'l'-
i pistiil— Till-
,.^__Tli.' two
ri'disriivi'icil
,,,. „f tlic i(ia<l
! — Our host —
rlu'ii— SiiiUH'r
I,,, invarialili'.
auiiiialiii" on
,.,.__Straits of
Cliili, I'lnita
il till' Kn'xlish-
tli." Indians —
vcrnnii'nt — In-
j^riianai'o — The
ainily of I'iifiV-
hoanlilnl n'lrl
>..n Nata— llor
,,y,.s — Oi'lmt at
iisi- of niin-snc-
itator Flori's of
lontt'vich'o — An
atc's — 1 nial<'' !v
alfaiis— KxihMl
onstcrnation at
,. His lirotliorK
d yiori'S Hies—
res reinstated —
45 G
vks— L<'.'iv<'s for
IVrn— Hi' i« 'i
uanl of citizons
oiu' williii;-: •'•
..ail pri.'Sit— The
V aV'iH' ("I'votfd
fiso ih-<' V''"' ''^
of the Argentine
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
( xxix)
jigii^X'.l^.m--'
I
FRKFACJE TO TllR ISlOGllAl'llY.
,;„„»..„.........■.'--' -■'■' ■'""; ■;:;
, ,. , ; ,.,,iv v.ars .l.Tiv.a In..., .1o.......h.I> -.
))(tSS(!
<, tiny
i,„ ,„.,„„.■.■ wi-- A. ■■...»..is Lis .^.1 i^-™;-
, , ,,„.,•..,,.,. ... .vl" ... .' '■""-" ■■' "■■"■'■■"•"■ •""" "."
comi,oser, scliolur, un'l i"'"'-
(xxxi)
HP"
BKXJRAriiKWL SKKTCIl
("ILVr^TKIJ I.
J<(it IS M(iui:.\r (Iottschai.k, tin- I'iiinist mi'l ('oiiiiMisci-.
mill lilt' "Illy Aiiu'rifim iiiiistfr of the iinMlfni sflnxilnf
iiiiisif, was ii iiiitivf uf XfW Oili'iiiis in llic Stutc of Loiiisi-
uiiii. ill tlio riiihd States of Aiiicriiii. His lallu-r was an
Kiitrlisliiuaii, liorii ill Loiidon; liis iiiotlicr a Cn'olc, Iioru in
NfW Orleans. It is pmliahle, if not eertaiii, tlial what leii-
(lereil (Jottselialk s<i atli'aeti\f was iliie to the two iiati.iivs
wUiell lie tlius inlierited, for lie |M)ssesseil tlie WMi'intli ot'
lu'art wliicli eliaraeteri/es the Creole, and tlu' diu-iiity of
llliililier so lieeiiliar to the KliiiTish. His aiieerjtors on his
inotherV side, all of nol>!e I" reiieh oriii'in, were resideiurt
of the island of St. Doininiro. His great-iiraiKlfather,
Antoine de Mnisle, Chevalier of the royal and military
Ortier of St. I.onis, was i-oinniaiidant or ifovernor of the
(jiiarter of tlie(Jraiide Riviere, parish of »<t. Rose, in the
northern part of the island. His .son, Theothit Cainillede
IJnisle, when the IJritisli took possessioi >f St. Domiim-o,^
received a eoniinission in the liritish \V lnilia_ .\riny of
Gt'orj^i! III. us t«nsiij;n, and afterwards . captain of the
Chasseurs of St. (ieori^e, in the reu'iineh. of Colonel the
Baron de .Montaleiiihert, raised in St. Doiniiiii;!) for the
defeiieu of the island. Ill tho terrihle insiirreetion and
niassaere whieh took |>la<"e after the British ahandoned the
island, Conunandaiit <le Hnisle was kilU'il. and Captain de
Hriisle escaped with others to various West Fiidia islands,
and to Louisiana, then in p(.'ssession of the French (iovern-
meiit. On tlie Kith of .lanuary, l«(»tt, Captain <U' IJnisle,
who had tied to Jainaiea, entered into ii contract of inar-
riuirc with Miss ^hlrie Jo.sepUino Alix J)eyiiant, who had
" 3 (:25) •
26
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
Ukcwiso escape.: with l.rr lather, Lientonai.t Loui. Chm-
X iH'vnuut, a,Kl hei- m.-ther, Lady Mane Iheirse
Y a a-le, tVum the island. AftcT the ..arnap" ot ( :.ijtam
<;. r>rusl6 he einio-rated with his wite an.l hei- athers
'. ,a to New Orleans. Several eh il dm, were tlie irmt ot
ti ;narriau-e,anK>nu^ whon. was Miss Auneede Bru.sle,
I'narkahle^br her ^beauty, her wit, and nn.su-a ^enn .
Miss de. Ih-usle at tla- a-e of titteen was n.arried o M •
Edward ( Jottsc-halk, a hroker, of-reat reputed wealth, nu h
isteenied as a gentleuutn of tine euUure, and -^'-; - ;^^ -(^
n lin.-uist,-he spoke ei.^ht or nnie languages On the htli
J\Us lS-^0, Mrs. ( J..ttsehalk i-ave birth to her eldest son,
Lou!r^Iorc;uGottsehalk,the .d>ieet^ of this sket. k Io
was named Moreau after an unele on his uiothei ^ bule, tlic
Count .Moreau de Tlslet. , ^ ^i i i: „+^
From his hirth he was a preeoeious hut ratlier d^> '''i/c
child and early displayed a taste for musie, smgmg all tlio
tunes he heard phlyed. The eholera, in 1831, took trom
him a little sister, and left his mother, who had also
Irvu attacked with the disease, at death s <loor. Her pliy-
sieian having ordered a change of air. Ins lather ].nrchase(l
a property at Pass Christian, on the (Jultot_ Mexico, where
he decidc'<l to settle and reside until his \vile s health should
he iierlectlv restored.
\t this tune it was a charming hut wild and almost un-
inhabited spot. The change of scene and air seen.ed_ to
have the desired effect. Mrs. Uottschalk began to im-
prove, and :Sh.reau, then about thi-i-e years ot age, seemed
to take nexv life amidst the beauties of nature which sur-
romided him; his health became invigorated, and he tol-
lowed his father in all his rambles, which he, a great lover
of nature, took morning smd evening. , , , , ,
]Shi<lam (iottscl.alk, who, suiee her health had been ini-
l,aired. sang (MiIv at intervals, resumed again her youthtul
!,ecupatioir(she^ was then only iiineteen years old), and
once more commenced studying singing. Moreau ^eatea
alon.-side of her on a little sto.d, listene.l atto.tively to his
mother, without, however, her observing the extraordinary
interest wliich the chiM manifested ior the nmsic. One
da V, when she ha<l been practising very assiduous! v the
grand air of ' Grace,' from the opera ot ' Robert le Duibk,
ri
MOTHER'S A ^TOMSIIMKNT.
27
Louis Clins-
ario Tln'ivse
!,v of Ciiptiiin
lu'i- tatlu'rV
•0 the iViiit ()t'
eo lie BnisK",
iisii-al !j;i'iuus.
irriod to Mr.
wealth, imifh
iviiiarkalile as
. On the 8th
hov eldest son,
^ sketch, lie
her's s'kIc, the
ather dolicntc
ringing all the
31^ took from
,vho had also
H)i\ Her jihy-
(luT ]mivhasL'd
Mexico, -where
s health should
and almost un-
aii' seemed to
: began to im-
of age, seemed
ure which sur-
ed, and he t'ol-
0, a great lover
h had heen im-
in her youthful
years old), and
'Moreau, seated
rtentivcly to his
e I'xtrao'rdinary
he music. One
assiduously the
ohert Ic Diahle,'
feeliuir faticued, she retired into her chamher, leaving lu'r
child Tdone'in the room, when, frightened hy vhe sound of
the i-iano, she (luickly got uji, as the Indians, to whom nearly
the wliole i>lace hi'l'oiigeil, were ne\er backward in coin-
mittinti dei.redations. 'The tirst thcuight of the young wife
was, that one of them had .)litai,ie<l an entrance into the
house, and, attracted hy tiie sight of the iud<nown instru-
ment, had cndeavoured'to learn for himself the nature of the
tliinu-; wln'n,ci;refully opening the door, she saw tlie cliiM
standing; on a stool with a jireoccujiit'd air, with his little
hands (7n the piano, endeavouring to find the keysof Ir.e
notes he out-lit to strike. His mothi'r, utterly astonished,
did not sjicak to him, hut watdied what he was doing,
when, to her extreme surjiriso, the child reproduced |he air
whic-h she had sunu' a (piarter of an hour hi'lbre. The cry
of iiride given hv the youiiLi- mother attracted the negro
servants, and, to"the givat terror of many of them, they
were listeners to the' first musical essays of one ot t he
o-i-eatest pianists that ever were horn. The ehlest ot the
iieu-roes shook their heads and whispered the word
''zoiid)i," which in the negro tongue signilies devil; the
vounu'er ones looked on admiringly, and taking, with re-
Kpeotftlie little hands of the child into their own, kissed
them. At Mr. CJottschalk's return the circumstance was
related to him, and to the great chagrin of his wiie he
instantlv decided that instead of remaining he wouhl en-
deavour to disposeof the property an<l return to the city,
l\)r the purpose of securing to the child a perfect musical
education. . , , .n , i ^
Like an openimr Hower the nature ot the child di-veloped
Itself little hv little. His heart was so tender that he could
not hear to see anv one around him suttering. One day,
when his i>arents had taken him with them to pay a visit
to a lady some distance from home, the child wiis paiutully
struck at the sit-'ht of a negress who had the " car can (a
species of round' wooden instrument, fastened hy a padlock
placed around the neck of neirroes as a punishment, which
pri'vents them from Ivimr down— kei.t on sometimes tor
two or three months) around her neck. As in the city they
were less eruel to their slaves than in the country where
tlK'i-e were no magistrates to enforce the laws, Moreau,
,■4
28
niOGHAPniCAL SKETCH.
never Leforo having soon a cairan, turno.l his hoad from the
Sit w th horn.i-, an.l .U-inan.lo.l, to hor groat n.orti .n^-
t o a oxplanation from Ma.lani , to whom rho ^aNO
h 1 n ro. Sho on.U.avou.va to mako tho ohihl unao. -stand
th I ti ■ nooToss had dosorvod tho imnishmon and that he
tl.at t R IK \othinu', howovor, could oahn him,
;;:;; ho ti;;^ht hi; t^dho.- toTa. savah. m. tutho.- hooon.
h . lito o.aharrassod, Ma.kim took up tho mat ,
K rhusv an.l i.roi.oso.l to soil Sarah, who, sho saul, ANa^
^ U S.a to imn^ tho ohiokons. Tho -rgam was c.nn-
lotod and Mr. Gottsohalk made tho child a proont ot
^ u : who hocamo a .lovorod .on-ant to him, and afterwards
iho clild-s-nui-se to all his aftord.oni hrothors and sistoi.s.
His i'd ionco was romarkahlo, and his all rt ion or his
Jt; anilanitod almost to id.Aatry His iatlK., a hougk
kin.l was what is called strict, and hrought up hl^ 1 ttle
S hi the most elevated ideas, and never penni tc^ hm
the indulcjenoe of any weakness. At Jl'^'^'^' , >.'"%.* 'V;'^,;
he on-aovd in conversation pertaining to a child ot son on,
!uu lai vady soomod to understand the extent and import-
a 00 t- the duties whic-h his father placed hoio.v him
"When >hM-oau shall have hrothors and sisters," he wonl.
.av '' .pa <'onnts upon his working for thom,and he must
Auk iorohand that they will have a father m Moreau
The little child "Hclorstood all and seoined nya va u to
ad..pt tho prosp(H-tivo family which his iuthoi at a latti
iioriod hcnuoathed to him. i -i i
^ S nine passed, and when autumn came it was decided
tha lowholo fanuly shonhl return to New Orleans. As
t^tt\.o sumnu/lasted. Madam !^<>ttschalk ^is s<>rry
at the prospect of quitting so charming a spot, hut, \M
Jho^rs appr..ach ot" winter hronudit the Indunis tmrn ho
lopths of the forest to the noighljourhood ot t^o <lwe 1 ng
her re-rots were lessoned, particularly so, as one 'Kn^^ '1
Sroatlv occupied in making cakes im- * S-^';^';-;;/^ ^
white^vrms lloing oxposo.l, a passing Indian stop pen I m a -
ration of her heauty and made an attempt /<• J^ - •
She called for help, and the man ot the woods ^^vut laugli-
'"^^hiThic'ident decided her, and the month of Xovemhor
saw them all again settled in New Orleans.
r : t
i
PLAYS TUE ORGAN.
29
■ad fioni the
it iiiortiticii-
1111 rlu' ^lilV('
[ uiulcrstiiiKl
luitl that ho
I cahii liiiii,
athcrhc'coin-
I the inattor
liL' said, \vas
in was (■(•ni-
a ]nvsont of
1(1 aftt-rwartls
and sistoi-s. _
rtioii for his
iiT, altlioiiiih
\\\) his little
onnitti'd hiiu
yi'ars of ago,
liild of sovou,
t and iiui'"i't-
[ boforo liiiii.
rs," ho would
I, and lie tuust
!• in Moivan."'
in ailvani'i' to
lior at A lator
it was doc'ided
Orleans, As
lalk was sony
|iot, l)nt, whoa
lians from the
■ the dwoUing,
ono day, wlion
, hor l)"oautiful
opjtod in admi-
to kiss thorn,
ds went laugh-
1 of Xovembor
CHAPTER ir.
The first tliono-ht of Mr. ( iottschalk, nftor tlioir return
to New Ork'ans, was to make in(|uirios for tin- host ]irotossor
of the piano. Mr. Letellior, a vouiitr Frenchman, a siuirer
of u-reat tak'ut at tlu' Theatre d'Ork'-ans, was introduced to
him, and immediately Moroau eommence(' the study of
music. One year afterwards, Mr. Letellior, ..ill of pride at
the remarkah'le progress of his pupil, rei>eated I'Vi'rywhero
that the little (Jottschalk could read at first sight any
manuscript which might ho ]>laeod Itefore him. l)e>*ides
the piano ho was also taught the violin, and Mr. Miolan,
the l)rothor of .\hidam Carvalho, tlie French singer, was
chosen for his professor.
Several years were thus passed. Moroan, althougli in
delicate health, grew in height ; hut the ]>assion he had for
music did not ]>revoiit tlio assiduous labour to whii-h his
father subjected him from becoming injurious to his con-
stitution. Ono day, when Mr. Letellior, who Wi-.s organist
at the Cathedral of St. J^ouis, liad taken his little scholar
to show him the mechanism of the organ, and to oxiiliiin
it to liiin. he was surprised to see how (puckly tlie child
imdorstood, and decided to teach him the organ. As Mr.
(xottschalk made no objection to the proposition, the idea
of the jirofessor was immediately i>ut into execution, and
the lessons connuence(l. His progress was so rajiid that one
year afti^r — Moroau miglit then have boon seven years old—
iiavinji: gone to high mass one Sunday, ^fr. lA'tellier beck-
oned to him so energetically that he was obliged to under-
stand that his pn)fossor wanted him in the choir; but what
was liis surprise when, reaching it, ^fr. Letellior said to
him. " Xow. tlion, sit down, and decipbor this mass for me;
the tenor is ill, I nuist take his place," and there is nol)ody
else to play the o gan ; and above all make no blunders —
now begin." Trend)ling, but not darii.ir to disobey, the
child coinmeuced. Mr. Lotollior managed the pedals,
3*
30
BIOr.R. I PIIK A L SKF TCII.
whi.'!. Lis littlo feet could net iviu-li. ^Vl.cn tLo iumss avhs
tini.hr.Utliri.ro1'r.-sortonk his impil i.ilnsanns.a... LTMina-
down stairs,, ..vsn>tv.l i>ir. <o his tatluT, say...- : - Ih."... is
the most hoa..tin.l tlov.ci- of ,..y .•.•ow.. ; .1 his chil, .lors
,„.thccoi.ii' the srivatcst ...usi.'ia.i in the w..i-l(l, sac-iv \hv\\.
inv iian.c. is ...it Lctciru'.-." a...l tho p.o.l^ i.ian, Avtr,.....;
witho.....ti<m,l<isscMlhi,... Thc.'hil.l,ii..l.atu...t1ou-oho„.(.,
.n-a<|K'.l his i-ath.M--s ha..<!, a...l tnod to (h-a,ir hm. away.
Tho.. ........ini-- o.i hofo.r, he did not stop yntd .e .va<-hed
home ''Wheiv is i..aimiia'f' he iiKUiiivd, ai.<l, fhi-owi..-;-
hi...selfi..to his n.othei-"sa.-l..s,e..(U-av(Uii-ed to ivh.te to he.'
his ,„o.-i.i..ir"s s..eeess; h.it so p'eat was h.s_ emotion, that
Mr. (Jottsei.alk was ohli,-jed to go to his assistance, and to
exnlai.i what had hapi^cnech , i ^. • i * ..
Seve.-al vea.'s passcl away. IMoroau had attained ten
years ..f au'e; his talent was so great that there was nothn.-
t-n,-ther diihcult for l.in.,s,. .Nil". Letellier ca...hdly acki.ow -
e.h^e.l that he had nothing more toteaci.him,and the onl}
thf..-- rei..ai..ini-- to he (hme was to si'i.d him to France
Mr -liottschalk: wl... had always che.-ished the thought ot
lui\ i....- his ehild.v.i ed.icatcd in Europe, was only too l.appv
have a reason tor it, a..d <lecide.l, to the g.vat regret ot
his V ife, that his so., shouhl leave New ()rlea..s and go to
I'Mi-is when he should attain the age ot twelve years
'u'thil K..-iod,the condition of tho Theatre d Orleans,
owin- to il.anv ci.vumstanc-es useless to mention, was lav
f,-om riourishh.'o-, and many of the musicians ot < l'^7"-<'»^^'^; '
we.-e unemploved. Mr. ^Hdan, one (.t the i.uml.er cat e
(..,e dav to M,-.CJottschalk to re-iuest him to pevinit hl^ ..
tol.lavata concert which he was about to give tor his ow a
he.l.Hl At this tin.e Mr. (iottschalk, engaged ni business
as a stock-b,-ok-r, was led to indulge the h(.i.e ot an inde-
pendent fortune ibr his children, and, never having an idea
that a..v of them would be in the musical P'-i^'^'^'*';;; '^
liatlv i-efused. lUit Mr. Miohm would take no letiisal,
and' returue<l a.nun to tho charge. The second time his
pc.titio.i met with more success as it was supported -x U
lish which the little artist had of bemg hoard '^ "'> l^;-
A select p,-o.n-ammo was, theivfove, placed betore he e. ts
of the Creole a.i.l Americm '^'l^'^tanti o ^ew Orlean.,
and in a few davs more tickets were sold than the conceit
iiiMss was
''Tln-iv "is
cliild tlois
nvw Du'u'.
1, Avcrjiint;
(I !i'() llolIU',
liiiu :i\viiy.
\v ITiK'llL'd
I, (lircwiiii;'
flati- toluT
lotion, that
iKV, and to
ttainod tiii
vas notliinii;
\y acknowi-
lid tlic only
to France.
tliouirlit of
ly too liappy
'lit ivgivt of
lis and go to
' yi'ars.
re d"(3rlt'ans,
ion, was fur
tlR'orclicstni
limber, came
M'niit his son
.■ for his own
lI in husinoss
e of an indo-
ivinti' iin idea
irofession, he
e no refusal,
>nd time his
lorted hy tlie
ird in luihlie.
fore the eyes
u'W Orleans;
.11 the concert
FAREWELL COSCEUT.
01
room could seat. On the cvetiinsr of the jierformanee the
hall was t-rowded, and there was hanlly stanilini;' room to
bi! found. Tlie youiijLj artist played several pieces, hut the
one wliicli was most successtiil was the ' j.ucie' hy L'crt/.
When he came to the most ditlicult passage nl' the piece,
the enthusiasm was at its lu'ight, and the last note was
liardly struck when the young executant was cai'ricd ulf
in triumph.
FAcrything being arranged for ^hireau's departure, in
A])ril, 1S42, at the recpiest of his father's tViends, he gave
u farewell co'icert. At the liead o: the patrons of tlu' eon-
cert was Mr. David, the French consul. The expected day,
a""". aited with so much impatience by all the musii-al aiua-
teurs, and by the curious who had never heard tlie young
musician, at last arrived. Xevi-r, ])erhaps, hail the splendiil
ball-room St. J^ouis been filled with so large and brilliant
an a.ssemlilage. All the ilifc of the city were there. .\t
the conclusion of the concert, Mr. David stepped upon the
.'^tage and presented to the young artist a monsti'ous boiKjUet.
JSloreau thought but of one thing, his mother, and, turning
to the stage-box whei'e she was seated, screamed out,
"^himma, it is lor you I"
Oil the evening of the concert, the little juanist went to
the hairdresser, Mr. liiarraiKl, to have his hair dressi'd.
"All! I see,"' said the hainlresser, "• you are going to the
eoneert of little Moreau (Jottsehalkl \ also should like to
have gone, but I caunoi spare so much money at once 1"
" Would you !ik(! to go'r" asked Moreau. "To gol indeeil
I shouul." "Very wi'll, then, I can give you a ticket ; I am
Moreau Gottschalk." (Jreat was the surprise of the hair-
dresser, and Moreau had that evening one more admirer.
CHAPTER HI,
Ix May, 1S4-2. Moreau left Xew Orleans on tlu- Taglioiii,
a sailing vessel, hound for Havre, under the commaud ot
Captain iiogers, a friend of Mr. Gottschalk, in whose charge
g.^ liioanAriiicAL sketch.
''T -a The Jnlv l!.win^lu-amv.a in Paris, a.ul wa.
•i to u n a l.rivaie iaiuily, wIm. nov.r n.vivod
,.liur.l t.. iMUi. n 'His first musi.al pro-
,,orc. tl.an •^'.^^ " 7^,,:^ /^^..n Moroau ^vas .onti.lM
lessor was UalU', l>»t no.c -,1 i,-,,.], \^^. taui-ht
,,„t liki,.- tiu« nonchalant n a ^l v u nn.lor th. mu-
^ '•"M"^±^;.,;v n ;^c.o,^'iontions, nol,U.-lu.arn.a, an.
C'anullr ^/!"'''^^"' .;"' ' , ......ftiT vi.ars,W!'s.)tti"n i>U'asi-(l
l'''''-:'r;i ,;'i'::i ,, ' c ; ; .l.v.i: p.,! «,,,■ ,„„'„ ,„..,.
aitHcnlty in r.ta mt.ir what he h d l^ ■ ^H J ^^^^^_
.onK>nstnnK..s.. h.,.-oo.^-,^
rapliv. In tlK' same \N .!>•"- "11 ...wii,, hi-; means soon
""Sus to 1845, he had only played in the salons of the
irts of tlio
iH- iiiiitlior
is, ainl \v:H
.T ivft'ivt'd
lUsical pro-
is foiitiiU'd,
he tauitlit
llT tlu' lUU-
f till' time,
leiirted, and
fteii ] pleased
y man moro
mi to inusie,
lositlon was
s eeleUrati'd
om may l)e
it in, (J reek,
At the same
elegant po-
iianners soon
idi, and the
dueed at the
angi', heeame
, Kothschild,
of those who
>nr. Ho rfi*^-
heing ahle to
o days" study.
ho had more
l»i«iued hythe
system of iiiu-
[irv and geog-
Art i.oeti(iuo'
lis means soon
iteen, he eoiiltl
h,and Italian.
H)rientales' of
i Spanish lik^
ae salons of the
cnopixs coMPLDn:sT.
S8
Parisian aristocracy, among whom In- was tTled and caressed
on account of his aristocratic maimers and great talent as
an artist, lie now, however, decided to apiiear in pnltlie,
an<l in April of this year gave a concert, /(om ])iii/<iiif, at the
Halle IMeyel, the annoimccnient of which created a marked
Hcnsation. Rum' itr had spoken so trenuently of llie yninig
( Jottschalk in the fasliioMal)le world, he had heen so niui'ii a|p-
])lauded, that all wi-ri- eager to hear him. I>esides,he was an
"•American,"' and the (luestion was asked, "Could Anui-ica
liroduce an artist?"" 'I hi- hall was tilleil to ovi-rtlowiiiir.
The anticipations of this hrilliant assendilage, composed
of the I'arisian and foreign aristocracy, as well as of his
fellow-countrymen then resident in l'i,ris, as also of all the
prinei[>al artists, were perfectly realized. The splendi<l
])laying of the young piaiust, at once elegant and vigorous,
his expression so pure and impassioned, and the gleams of
decided originality, all cond)ine(l to secure for him the most
hrilliant success. At the close of the concert the applause
was iniinense, and a wreath of tlowers was thrown to the
young riHiioso. The graci'ful and modest manner with
which he received it comjiletiKl his success, (."liopin, who
was present, after the concert, said in the artists" room, in the
[iresence of his friends, putting his hands on his head, ' J)on-
nez luoi la main, moii enfant; je vous predis que vous serez
le roi des pianistes." ((Jive me your hand, my child; I
predict that you will hcMme the king of pianists.) These
few and simple Avonls Ah>reau valued more than all the
1)ravos he had received, for Chopin was chary of his ]»raise.
From that hour he lield his diploma as an artist.
Tie had hitherto heen known only from playing the com-
positions of others, IJeethoven, Mendelssohn", J>is/.t, Tlial-
herg, and Cliopin. Ife now heeame a eomposi'r himsi'lf.
In 184G he wrote his 'Danse Ussianiiiue." It was hut a
tritle, but gave evidence of future greatness. This <;erm of
oriifiiiality re- :>ale(l itself more and more in the pieces en-
titled 'Les ]>allades d"Ossian,' or 'Le Lai du iH'rnier Mene-
strel,' 'l^a Uraude ^.'alse,' and 'La Grande Etude de Con-
cert,' which appeared in 1847.
Tn tlu^ inonth of Xovemher, 1847, he wished to make liis
tii-st trial in one of the ]irovinees before a paying jiuhlic,
and like Liszt and Thalborg he chose for his dcOut the city of .
84
liKxniM'lUCAf. SKETCH.
S>.liUi,Ml.U'li cuiovvd a (rHaiii n'|.ntiiti..n lor diU-ttiUitc-isin.
lie WHS not U'ss ti.rtiiiiati- tliaii liis illustnous prt'dtrcssoiv,
anil wart m-i'ivcil with rai-turons api'laiisi'.
It mi--lit Ik-sui.i.<>sc<1 that sucli i-'i-rat success won.d have
spoiled l.in.,an.l that th.' way in which lu; was courtcl
and iT'tcd ev-rvwhiTO would liavc n.hl.cd hini ol his sini-
i.licitv of 1 art. l?ut 8n<h was not the ease; he renianied
the sinie ,Jnd, treutlej.euev..lent, modest youth that his
infant .hiys jiave promise ot. The followinj,' anecdote will
irivi' some insiirht into his nature.
^ One Sui lav evo in Paris, as he was walkimr leisurely
home, ho heanl a deei-drawn si-h, tlu^n a so.: tunun.!i
round he hclield a vountj recruit, almost a child, l.edi-we.l
in teai-'^ His sorrow was so genuine, his pnet so unteijrne<l,
that he asked him if ho could do anythmir to liel}. hiiu.
- Mas, no," answered the la.l; "au accident has happened to
„H. that has no remedy, and which will hrin- on me such
a punishment as I shall never he aide to hear. ' " Uit what is
it •'•' ivA<^^\ (iottschalk. - Well, you see, s,r, whenever wo
tear or losc^ anv of our clothes, wo have to remain m portect
ooniinement for a week or moro, sometimes m darkness; it
depends <ai the nature of the article wo have h.st 'n' torn.
1 have just torn my trousers, and 1 dare not go Inu'k to the
harracks, for if 1 havo to uiuh'rgo such a punishment 1
shall make away with myself. Fancy, Monsieur, 1 , eommg
from the country, heing deprive.l ot air ami light lo . a
fortui.dit!" (iottschalk, greatly touched, hade the recruit to
folloxv" an.1, heing near the Ruo .lo l.ondres where ho know
■I kind and ohlii-ing tailor, ho retraced Ins stops thither. Jle
found the man and his family gathero. I together reading ;
ho explained the ease, and heggo.l the tailor lor tho i^.or
young man's sake to see what was needed to ho done. J ho
kind'tailor readily complied, and with tho hidp ot Ins wiie
maiuu-ed to repair th garment.aiul thus save the voun.g man
fr,.m his dreaded pm.-.shmeut. Needless to say, he paid the
tailor handsomelv for the time and lahour he ha<l oxpeialod.
Once when ahout entering one of those large oonlec-
tionerios called restaurants in Paris, ho noticed a young
soldier who was standing at tho window admiring ami
seeming ready to devour all tho good things so heautilully
decorated and arruugcd to tempt the puhhc. Ihe young
ilcttiuiti'isin.
jiri'iU'ci'ssor-*,
^ wonltl Imvi'
was <'(turtt'<l
II ol" liis siiii-
lii' ri'inaiiu'"!
utli that his
iim'ciU>to w ill
iiitr U'isiiivly
s(il»; turning
lild, heiU'Wotl
HO uiiti'itriic<l,
to lic'lji him.
s liai>i)t'iK'(l to
I oil 11)0 such
-' I'utwhat is
wlii'iii'vor wi"
lain ill iiortc'ct
1 (larkiR'ss; it
■ lost or torn.
:<) hack to tho
|tuiiisliiiu'iit I
cur, l,couiiiit;"
(I liicht for. SI
.' the recruit to
hciv ho knew
)s thither, lie
iithor reading ;
• for the poor
he (lone. The
olp (»t' his wife
the vouiiu; man
iy,he paid tin-
had expeiKled.
'. large eonl'ec-
ti('e(f a young
admiring and
1 HO heautifiilly
3. The young
aOTTSVllM.K AM) SOLDIKli.
85
soldier's t'aco was so '.onest and lu' seei ud so to <'nJoy tlie
fruit, meats, and o)lu r things through tli" glass, that (iott-
sclialk turiu'd round and spoki- to him. The youth started,
hhishcd, and taking off his(.i]) kept turning it round and
round in his tiiigers. "No, iinU'cd, 1 do not joke," repliecl
(iottselialk,'"when 1 ask you if you should like togo insido
and take dinner the-e," " Miit, Monsieur, who is to jiav
for xX'C ''I, of course," an ...ered (Jottschalk. '•() Mon-
sieur'." was all the soldier lould say. 'J'hey went in ; hv
(Jottsclialk's order tlii' hill of fare was hane'ed to the sol-
dier. Ih'kcpt reading it, hut now that 111' lad his choit-e
lie could not make up his mind, and at last with a deep
sigh lie said, "I cannot choose. Monsieur." (iottschalk,
laughing, called the waiter and ordered ii dinner, such as,
mow than likely, the son of Mars had never eaten, and
never did eat in afti-rtimes. On his rerurn hoiiu' (Jott-
schalk told it to his family, and said lie. was touched to
tears to see with what avidity the jioor lad ate and how
grateful lie was for such a treat.
CIIArTER IV.
The lioaltli of his mother having hocomo delieato, owing
to hi-r grief arising from long separation from her much
loved son, it was arranged that she should go to Paris with
her other children, who would thus also have the henetit
of a Parisian education. This resolution was spei-dilv car-
ried out, and the liimily soon found themselvi's in Paris.
The reunion of mother and son was very atlectiiig. From
this iiionient Morca.i heeame the sole ]irot"cfor o\' his
mother and the youKger children, his father, whose husi-
ne>s detained him in New Orleans, having confided to him
the care of the family.
The great success (Jottschalk met with at Sedan induced
him to give another concert at the Salle Pleyel. The
audience was equally distinguished as the lirst, and tlio
86
ui()i:iiAniic.\L sKh/nn.
friiiflitoii now luiiiirlt'il its pmisi-s with those i.t' tin- coimois-
' ' ', jmisiiiiiir liis hiiinl,sai<l.
■ Vomit; iiiiiii, I invdict I'or vou ii liitmv siuli as tew hum
Hi'Urrt. ThallHTir, wlio was jiiVHciit, jri-asjiiii!: liis haiul,sai<l.
laii, I invdict I'or you a '
havo yi't sct-ii
"A'youiii; iiiaiiist," savH a critic on tliis occasion, '• ot a
most proniisintr future, Vl;. (Sottschalk, whom tiic salons so
rt'aililv rcccivctl into th»'ir protection, lias Just |»ert'orme(l
l.uMicly in tiie Salle IMeyel. Horn upon the hanks of the
Mississippi, he seems t(» have hrout-ht to the Old World
sontis which he had irathered 'ui the viririn forests of his
countrv. Notliinir can hi' more ori^inah or more pliiisini>;
to the ear than the composition of this yonnji; ("reole.
Listen to the ' Uamhoula, and you will comprehend tho
poetrv of a tropical clime. (Jotts.halk's execution is mar-
vellous, lie jHissesses a force, a jrrace, an idiandonment
which carry you away, in spite of yourself, ami compel
vou to applaud like a mere r'ii>/,i(iir. The piano is no
loiiirer the dry and monotonous instrument \vith which
yoifwere ac(inainted, and you will find spriiitfintr fr«>m he-
neath the creative linirers of the artist all the tlmlnrs of tho
orchestra, tuns Irs saii/iirs ilcs insffiinu ntn a n nt.
"There is a scale like a strini; of i)earls leading you
hack to the minor key! Oh! listen to that s'-ali- which
flows so sweetly ; it is not the hand of a man which touches
the keys; it is the wing of a sylph that caresses them, and
eatjses them to resound'with the ]>urest harmony."
Tho composition of vUamhonla' was written under
the following circumstances. After Iris mother's arrival
Moreau was" stricken ilown with typhoid fever. During
the delirium which accompanies this fever, he was seen to
wave ids liands, which those aroimd him supposed to ho
symptonis of the delirium ; hut during his convalescence,
which was verv slow, he one day got up and wrote out
' Band)oula,' which he said had been running in his hrain
during his illness. It is composed upon four bars of a
neunrmelody, well known in Louisiana, and is considered
one of the n^ost remarkable, as it is one of the most ditti-
eult of execution, of all his eimipositions.
When he had sutKciently improved, lie went to the
Ardennes, for tho full recovery of his lu-alth, and there
composed the ' Danse des Ondjres,' the uaiue of which ho
I' coillinis-
iiinil,sai<l.
« few null
loM, '• of 11
;• salons so
|K'rt'orint tl
lUs of tilt'
)l(l Woll.l
'Htrt of llirt
V |ili'asiiiu;
HIT Crfolf.
clu'iid tlu>
loii is iiiar-
inilonniciit
ml coniiK'l
iaiio is no
ith whicli
jl from l>e-
\l)n>i of the
■adiiiff you
•all- wliich
ii'li toiU'liL's
thcni, uud
»'.
;tt'n under
ir's arrival
r. During
vas seen to
)Ose(l to 1)0
ivalesfunce,
wrote out
11 hirt 1)raiu
bars of a
considerctl
! most ditK-
cnt to the
. and there
f which ho
liAMltorLA.
87
afterwards dianp-d to tliat of * Dansi- Ossiani.iuc,' l.fsidcs
the two' MallailcsdOssiaii,' wlii.-ji luM(ini|.osfd uioneni-lil
tor the It'tc du^- ..f his motln-r. Tlif • Uanairu'r," ..nc ..fliis
lii'st «'oni|M.sit s, was tlun wriltfn. At this pi-riod In-
made tiu' a(i|uaintancc of Mr. Leon Kscudier, wlio lu-caiue
not onlv the iiiti'!lii^-«'nt |inl(lisiicr of his worksin Paris, l.itt
the devoti'd friend which he remained initil the death of
(Joftselialk. lie also eomiiosed > Lcs ("oljicrs dOr," w hiiji
afterwards iravo ri-^o to asinirular e|iis<Mh.. In 1,s4h the t-.l-
lowinir eritiei.-iu and notiee ai>|.eared in ' J.a Franet- Miim-
eale,' I'aris.
Wlio -l.M's not kn.w th,. ' Unml)on)a V Wlio is IIht-wIi,, Imw not r.'.i.l
""•'''•'"•'■'1'" f fliat |>ictiiivs.|ii,., ..xcitin^'il.ifKT, «lii,|, >;iv,.s .■xinvssii.n
to th-l.TliTiK (.!■ th.' IWKIO..S .' Joyful or siid, plaiiitiv... auioioii.s, jriilniis
forsakcMi, solitary. fali^Mi.Ml, ..nniil.Ml, or tli.. Ii.s'irt Mil,., I with jri-icC t|„'.
n.-M. lor.', 'Is all in .lanfinj; tli.' ' Hanilioiila.' l,o,,k down Hot.- at t'li.K,.
two lilaik-lint.'.j woni with short pi'tticoats, their n.'.ks and ears orna-
ni.'Ht,'il with iMiral, !<■ n;i„ril l.nil.nil, ilan.ln^' niider the l.anana ti
Iho whole of their iMidies is in movement ; further on are .'nuips who ex-
cute and stin.ulat.. them to every exeess of fan.'v; two .h-ro,.s roll ihe'ir
active linK'ers over a noisy taml"uirine, ai mpaiiyiii- it with a laiiL'nishite'
chant, lively or impassioned, according; to the pose of the dancers I iitle
n.-roes, like those ,m the canvas of Decamps, are jumping aronnd the
lidd ers ; It IS lull ol folly and delnshui. The ' Uamhonla' is at its hei..ht
I his attractive dance has frciueiitly furnished alheniefor instrmiient.il
coinpositions, which, however, have not ol.tained all the sn.vess that we
expe.'ted from them. Th." Creole ails transp,.rted into our sahuis loso
their char.acter, at once wild, lan-uishiii};, indescrihahle, which I, as no re-
semlilaiice to any otli.T Kiiropean musics ; some have thou. -lit that it was snf.
ticieiit to liav(" the chants written down, and to reproduce them with varia-
tions, in order to ol.tain new elfects : not so, the elfects have lailed. One
must have lived under the hurniiiK sky from whence tlieCre..!,. draws his
niehHlies;one must l.e impregnated with tli.-s •centric chants, which
an- little dramas in artion ; in one word, one must he (Veol,.. as composer
and executant, m or.ler to feel and mak.) otliers understand the whole
on^'inality of ' Haiiihonla.'
We have .liscovered this Crcide composer ; an American roniix.ser, h.m
J'icii. \es, indeed, an<l a jiianist compos.. r and iilaver of the lii.'hest
ordi-r, who as yet is .miy known in the aristocratii^ sahuis of I'aris'and
whose name will soon make a Kreat noise. We have (rernian piaiiisi,
Iliin-.arian, Hiissian, Italian i.ianists. We have ended l,y .tiscoverin.'
iM-.Mich pianists ; and now we liave an American pianist. His name is
<iottsclialk. Close the lips, advance the ton<;iie, aj.pear a little like
whistlinfr, and y(m will Iiav.. the key to tlio ))r.uiiinciati<ui. (iottsi^halk is
alre.idy a marvellous juanist ; his school is that of Chopin, Thallu-r.- and
1 riid.-nt united toj;etlier. He has taken from one his. lifrhtness, >:ra,v, and
l.iirity; troin the others, tiieir unrestrained passion and their attrai'tivo
l.nlliancy ; and I can assure yon that for a hmj; time a pianist soori.'inal
so sympathetic, has not heeu seen. Gottsuluilk has composed several
4
X-
88
luixniM'i KM. sKjyrcii.
•'• ' '■■■ ' I'ir,,;!: ;',',, 1,1: M»':,"". ,ia ,.„<,. ■.. >i»»- -i"
trail v.TV Maiitilully idiiijis ^wo. ...■ ■■■■•■•■ ■• ,■; .,.,,
Vfti, io.s in tlil.l.'tS .".•..I., will, ^^.,n.l..rlu^ lif;l.tn,.ss. 1 h
/^ I • I" •- « m. a /.m»/ssn,.. variati.m. «!...«.• .armom.
imiiiMliatfly ii'tiiriin
tlii'iiii" ill fc
an- uf iliiri-
,nnl i,t il lllll,
tllf tllfllH', 'i
Itiit why
i;r '" ;;;: iLu.:';: the niias, .r .i,^^n... una tnu...,,).
„,„, air, ivsolvcMl t<. make- a pf-U-stnan t..ui; ... tl.c- \ .>^i>.
1, 1 r.^xt ...o.-.,i..u^ .'.s. a..a w..it o.,t to take a Avalk
Tl!lK u,tv..rthola...ls.a,K;,anai..l.a,.sal.so,..v.^^
i.vvr.,t.a"l.i..i tnn.. roc..un.l/.MK how la.- he. l.a.U. MK, a.,
..,..M...-..tlvhow .r.sta.,t h. was i.-o.„ h.s "..., w la v 1-
luxl 1 'ft his ca.-i.et ha.o-, vs^vvUnv: to .vta.-.. to h,caUa>t.
T h ^.Trisc^o..looki,.,L^a.•o,...aJK.io..,..n.....s. .ntho
1 u St vc of a viUaL.', whiU. he still tho,.o.ht h....se ... the
; ;;,, c.o....t.y ; la.t his ^^vvn^^ was m-.vase. 'X ^ he a^>-
aL.veahle sensatio.. of a hc-a vv ha.iU la.U ..,.o., h.s > . I •
T.iiM.i...-- .•o....a he saw a ,ij:e..aa.'...e, wla; .vpirdea hi... u ith
Bi.si.i.'io.,, a..a sei'.nea ivady to ai'.-est 1......
" Yoi.f passiioi't '." , J, ,. -.
'' M V ,,assiK;.-t 1 h..t T have not trot it wi 1. i.ie ; I lelt it
at my'iii.i this iuo.-..i..g," rcpliea CJottschalk.
_L
A.\ Mtvi:.\ irtii:.
no
jiiocK 111' <'nUii
• mili'iisuf Miin'.
<1 It'll tillH'H tllll
IHC.
I'd HIKII'/' /', tl"'
(ii)ttn<'iiiilk liiis
IllH l'llll'll'ill<'l'''l
U\vV.f 111'- ll<"l''
iial mill fiii>;i'iK
• iiiiildli- I'liiUil,
HH'tiu wuy, Willi
rsirmlo I'lnli^fimoy
I's, iiliii |iriij.'i-i'H-
(■( is llliull' li.V H
(■ of iH-ai'N ; lliis
ftiT tliii- -.ii'i I
Til' ilifiii"' ill ''
iiifs iin- of iiiiri-
III" linlll of <///'('.
• til tilt! tllfllll'. ''
[ijility. Hilt vvli.v
1 till' 1"'" "'VI'll 1111
a hiuiilii'il tiiiii's,
\it n-isci iiil'i,,l"il' •
hii'li ili'lli's aiiiily-
•il ill tlif fniiit iif
I alongside of tlio
[lllH.
lillliTO <»t^ WCIK'
ill tlu- Vosiil'S.
II ii niri'i^'t l»i'jr;
re, and at dav-
» take 11 walk,
isciu'c of miinl,
hatl ^-oiK', and
inn, wlifiv ho
II to liivakt'ast.
I liinisi'lf in the
t himsell' in the
^t'd by the dis-
•n liis shoiil(U'r.
ardedhini with
th nie; I left it
•♦Yo:^, yoM, we know tiiat; if thoii hast not irot it, l\,\:
ward niareji to th*' L'Manlhoiise."
Oottschalk, for ;iii iustinit. tlioiiu'ht of resisting;, l.iit a> a
crowd ot' idlers lieiiini to asseiiiliie, he |int on a Mtoiit heart
and followed the licndarine. Arriviiio- at the triiardhon»',
lie was left alone for a few inonu.nfs, iiwailiim' the ina\or
to cNaniine him. After a <|iiarler of jiii hour's soliliide
another •.•(.iiiljiriiie entered, and, seat iiio- himself near a win-
tlow, without takiiiir the troiihle to look at the juisoner,
took II |.a|ier from his poeket and henjiii readiii!:-, • l.u
France Mnsieide," tluii eilited h.v I.eonaiid Marie Ksciidier,
in which was an aecoiiiit of tlie lust |irivate eoncerf uivcn
hy (iottschalk, and in which ' l,es Cnllicrs d'Or' Avas in-
Kcrihi'd in lariic letti'rs on the hack of the pajier. 'I'hink-
int,' that the opiiortiinity had airi\('d for iirovinu; his iden-
tity, he spokt- to the li'eiidarme. and said to him ; —
"My yood man, if yon wi.-li to know a\ ho I am, yoc
laive only to read the article on the third iia<re and hack ot
the fourth."
The u-eiidanne, who had iirohahlv in him more reline-
nient than his comrade, louked at tlie ]iianist attentively,
and without sayimra word left the room. A tew moments
had hardly ela|ised when (Jottschidk was hroimht liefore
the mayor. The mayor, who was a very tiit, tioiid-natnivd
man, and _([ni!" jovial, (|iiestioned his prisoner', and haviim-
learned his name laiiulu'd heai'tily at the advt'iitnre; hiif
(iottschalk, with the perspicacity which characferi/ed him,
lierceivinii- that he still had a ("iiint trace of suspicion, led
the conversation in such a Avay tiu;t he learned from the
tfood.Mr. Mayor that he had two daughters who phiyed on
the piano,aiMl that the ' liananier' wasonc of theii- liivourite
jiieces. "They luive a piano," thonu'ht (iottschalk; "all
riixhtf'and he felt that the difliciil'ty of niakiiii;- himself
known was removed. Half an hour afterwards the yonnt;'
pianist saw himself at the piano, haviiiii; tln' wl.ol" iiiinily
ol' Mr. Mayor for his audience. Thei-c was n • lono'er an'v
question aliout the passport. A piece played like that coid'd
ly appertain to the youiiii; Anu'rican", wl we talent was
on
making- so much noise at I'aris. (Jottscha;k was invite.d
to spend several days in the liimily of the mavor, to the
murtiHeutitm of the geudanuc who^irrested hint, and the
4Q BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
ffroat ai^ar.pointiiietit of the rabl.le of the villasce, wlio liad
fioped that the ei)isode wouhl luivc toniuuatod m a very
dittereut way. , , . ,
Un his return to Paris he performed at several e.meeit.
ffot ui. 1)V Mr. Leon Esc-udier, and afterwards, y eldnig- to
the desire of a great uundjer of persons, he gave lessons on
^ ' AboiT'this period Gottsehalk heeanie aoqnaintcd with
the celel)rated I'rotestant preacher in i'aris, Mr. Ado plie
M.mod. He had been very kind to a person ni whom
Mr. Monod was very much interested, whieh, commg to
ihe knowle.ls.e of the latter, resulted m a warni tnend-
Bhip, and in^iottsehalk beeoming a frequent visitor a h i^
house. Mr. Monod was very fond ot musie, and bottsehalk
was alwavs pleased to gratify him Ho was aeeustomed to
sav. that ids music was " more ht ^or heaven t 'an tor eaitl
On one occasion Mr. Monod called on Gottsehalk to in-
vite him to spend an evening with him, to meet some ot
his English tVien.ls then in I'aris. Gottsehalk was not at
home. ^ Ah he was returnino: he met him m the street.
AVhile talkino- together a poor woman came up and asked
them for aim?. Mr. Monod, wishing to discover it he was
as benevolent as he was talented, left him, and wate^icd
to see what the young pianist would do lie saw him talk
to the woman, give lu-r alms, walk a little way with her
and get at a baker's .shop a large loat ot bread and hand
it toiler. " This act," sai<l Mr, Monod, "touched me more
than anvthiniT I had yet seen, because it was done without
his l)eiifir aware that any one saw him."
The intimacv and friendship whuh existed between the
Rev Mr. Mon'od and Gottsehalk soon extended Uy their
respective families, and subsist between the survivors ot
''in 1^5o'tl^ woi-kshops of Mv. Tleyel, the celebrated
iriano manufacturer of I'aris, unfortunately burned down
and threw a large number of workmen out ot einployinent
The susceptible heart of Gottsehalk was greatly atlected
bv their misfortune, and, resolving to come t«^ their assist-
ance, he proposed to give a concert for their benefit in
rievel's Concert Hall. In a week there was not a place to
be had ; all the seats were sold. Mr. Erard, another ceic-
coy CERT FOR WORKMEN.
41
age, who had
ted ill u very
vend concerts
s, y elding' to
ivc lessons on
piainted with
Mr. Adolpho
■son in whom
•h, coming to
warm t'riend-
: visitor at his
lid (jlottschalk
accustomed to
lian for earth."
ttschalk to in-
meet some ot
dk was not at
in the street.
iijt and asked
over if he was
, and watched
3 saw him talk
way with her,
)read and hand
uheil me more
s done without
t>d between the
ended to their
le survivors of
the celebrated
' burned down
)f employment,
sreatly atiected
to their assist-
heir beiietit in
s not a ytlace to
•d, another cele-
brated piano mainifacturer, generouslv subscribed 500
trancs; iuid asked only for ten stalls, hv. Tlevcl did the
same. Tbc banker, Mr. Xatlian Treille, Madam' .Mcnnecbet
(le hanval, the mtelligeiit and cbarnunn' woman, cadi t(K)k
100 francs' worth of tickets. Mr. Javal, .Mr. t)rtila, <'tc.
also subscrdjcd. Tlie followini; is traiislatc.l from an ac-
count of the concert by Mr. i<:seudier as it apiicared in
'La 1 ranee Musicale' of the 27th of April, lh'->U.
THE WOIIK.MKX OF PLEYEL AND GOTTSCII.M.K.
Here is oiu- of tlu- most l.oaiitiful and most coniplct.. triiaiiplis wliirli we
lav,^ witnossL-d tliis winter, (inttschalk can in.scril,.- tliis eveninK uiM.n
)).s lieait; then, was never anytliiiiK ni.ire soleiiin and more animated.
It was lor tlie workin;;men, viitims of tl
fire at Mr. I'leveis maniifac-
lad lirouglit togetiier all tlie artists, all the lasliii.n-
tory, that (iottsehalk
able world of Paris; man,nises, duehesse.s, hankers, m.-n of h'tters, anil
statesmen. All the salons were so full that two hundred oersons could
not obtain a idaee to be pres.'iit at the tele.
There is (iottsehalk ; they elap their hands ; the Celebrated artist is pro-
digious ; he j.lays with an art, a grace, a siiirit, a lightness, a iiower, which
carries oil everybo<ly, maniiiis..s, hankers, aii.l duchesses. He commenced
the concvrt with ' I.al'hasse dii jeune Henri,' ami finished with ' llamboula ■
He was call.Ml to repeat all his iiieces, and, to content th." enthusiasts who
did not cease to cry encore, he added to his i)rogramme ' .Moissonneuse, Han-
.anier,' which lie had to jday twice, and ' Uo<l aav(( the Qucn,' which
was alsocalled lor again. These taken in accomit, (iottsehalk i. laved four-
teen times. They cried encore after ' Mancenillier,' an adoral.leV'omposi.
tion, hcIkJ il'inirn- of genius which was ten times interrupted bvajiplause
Hardly had (iottsehalk again finished plaving on the piano this charmiiiK
poetic inspiration, when a workman of riev.d's factory advanced uiion tho
stage, holding a majestic bou.iiiet in his hand, which he- i.rusented to tho
beloved musician in the name of his comrades. The hall, as viui may well
sujipose, was carri<>.l away ; then (iottsehalk executeil the andante of 'Lucie'
by Liszt. He is at least an artist, a great artist, who can interpret in
the author's manner this original and dillicult composition. I wish that
Liszt lia<l been there; lie would, like all the rest of us, have frantically
clappeil his hands. On all sides they cried encore, and through the whole
hall they rose uji, the better to see if Gottschalk had not more than two
hands c.t tho ends of his arms.
Th- morning after this fCte, the workmen of I'level's factories went to
express theirgratitude to Mr. (iottsehalk, and sent to him a letter of thanks
which did honour to the artist as well as to those who wrote it.
The following address was presented liy the (leleirati\s
of tho workmen to Gottschalk, the next dav after" the
concert : —
Mo.NsiEuii: Paris, 22 Avril, 18.W.
Nous veiinns, an iiom donop camarndes, vous offrir le trilmt de notro re-
counaissauce pour la sympathie que vous avez montree pour le ualhuur
4*
42
BIOGKAPIJICAL SKETCH.
m,i a ini atfimlrc cTtnins d'entr,. nous par ,->,. cessation momentan6e e
eratitu.!.- .'Ht i.our t(.uj..u.s f^niv.H. .laus n,« nvurs. I-.IU m- conlona pour
n .l.l.ru.'S .lui avons assisf. ^ la b.-Ho soim- d'hu-v, vi ,,ui -iv'-s .■. U
„,.,.• a.- v.M s.nte.n.1.0 avoc la ,,lus vive a.ln.iraf.m po...- vot.v t« .n
8 ist..nu.nt .rU.l.f ; ct, iM'st ,.1-ins .Ics s..nti,u..nt,s .,ui n.ms uisiMrrnl et
V ,..',. ...so a.t on, ct lo I'laisir .1.,- voir l.s arts v.n.r a.ns. .... a..!, a
li„'l..st,'i' ...,..« nous v^ous d.manelons .l-accueillir les remtTCcuients los
plus siiict.rrs ile
Vos tr..s humbles et obeissants sorviteurs, ^,__ _^^^^ Donoouoe.
IjKVKHUK,
(ifI..I.OT,
Cuiiriox,
Di.U'.fiu.'s di'S onvriors do la po.'tion d..s atclioi's do
M. rieycl & Co. qui a ete iiicendioo lo 20 Mars.l&ul.'.
A Monsieur Gottscuai-k.
{Translation.)
Paris, 22 April, ISnO.
Sir
Wo com., in the name of our comrades, to offer you the tribute of our
g,.a i „r,to tSsv,.>pa,by wl.ieh you have shown for the n..s.o.-tu,u.s
wl i.h e.. tain au.onV us have experieneed from the te.,.pora..y eessal.onof
L 1. r oe sion,.d b.v th.. .he, a..d to beg you to bel.eve that <;'"-,l;>f -"^
cratitude is for..v,.r e,.<:raven upon o...- hear s. 1-or us 'l';li'K.";'«-;\ "
«. re present at the beautiful soi.ee of yesterday, a... who have ha,l tho
Uas.m'ot hearing' vou, it is mh-gled with the liv..l>est a.ln...a .o,. for
• ... ... o justly :.elei.rat...l ; a...l it is, over.lowi..g wth thes....t> meuts
w I 1 i h vou a..d vour generous aetio.. i..spire us, and the plea^ur.. of
seeing tile arts tln.s .•on.i..g to the assistance of indust.-y, that we ask you
to receive th.. siii.>.i-est tha.iks of
Your very humblo aud obedient servants,
iinu vci^i uu William Dosoohoe,
Lkkkhuk,
(ilMLLOT,
ClllU'.O.N,
Del.x'ates from tlifl workmen of the workshops of
^h'^ss.•s. I'leyel & Co. which wero burned down
March 25, IbOO.
To Mr. OOTTSCHALK.
ClIArTER V.
.\T this poricl a stron<r fViondsliip Pi.rmi<r iii. l.otwocn
Gottsc-hiilk iin.l tliL- nol.k", intoUiircnt, and .i^ood Mi'. 1 K-y^-'U
whose iuflueiu-e had .irmitLT vahio in the eyes ..t the vom.ir
man than the ai-pluuse of the most seleet audieiiee. it was
inn momentanee ile
iiui' iicitic iii'oriiiiilo
lie sc folirniiil jiour
I't cjiii avoiis I'll lo
1 pour votri' tal'iit
li iKiiis iiispiiciil ft
I'liir aiiisi I'li aidf a
ifintTcicuiunts lea
II.I.IAM DosoouoB,
KKHltK,
II.I.llT,
iilMtlX,
:i()n tli'S ati'liors ilo
Utio lo 25 Murs.1850,
s, 22 April, 1850.
11 the triliutc of our
f(ir tin- iiiisfortmics
uilH)rai'.v <i.'ssati(iii of
tliat (lur profouiul
r lis (l<'lcf,'atfs, who
1 wlio liavf had tho
lii'st aitiiiiratioii for
; with thcsciitiiiu'lits
and this ploa>ini' of
try, that we ask you
r'lM.IAM DOSOOIIOE,
KKKIIUK,
IMI.I.OT,
H.'U'ION,
of till! workshops of
wore burned down
'liiiiT n|t liotwoon
•rood Nfr. rU'Vol,
•Vfs of the youiii:
iiulic'iico. It wad
THE nUSD CRITIC.
43
cliiiniiing to soo tliesc two men, one of tliom just oiiterin.ij;
upuii life, till" otlit'i- near tlie moment of leaving it, so
elosfly united: the young-i'i- listeniiii;, with interest and ad-
miration, to the elevated conversation of the man of ueniiis,
who had heen so mueh aiflieted. Mr. Krard had fre-
qnently proposed to Gottsehalk the playing of his pianos.
Hut althoui,di he admired the meehaiusm and liriiliancv of
the iiistrinuents made hy this eelehrated manufaetnrer, (tott-
sehalk remained faithful to those of I'leyel, whicli liad
tak^'U their sweetness and freedom, aildcd to I'orcc of cliar-
aetei', from him who had iu some «ort breathed into them
the breath of life.
]Jut it must not ho supposed that the sueeess of Gott-
schalk dill not in some minds ins].ire envy and suii'ovst
adverse eriticism. He was earieatinvd by 'Cham,' an(T^"()no
eritic, wlio laboured under the misfortune of beino- blind,
Iniade more than one disaj^n-eeable remark on Gottrdtalk's
ji'ivin^- his eompositions Creole names; he mii>-ht as well,
he said, "call them the melon and apple-tree, insti-ad of
' Hananier'and'Maneenillier,' for all that the publi(; cared."
He had even been so rude one day that Uottsehalk's friends
took it in hand, and wished to eall him to aeeount. This,
however, (Jottschalk would in no wise permit, and the'
matter droppe.l for some time. One evenino-, at a concert
at the llall IJonue Xouvelle, _o;iven by the wonderful little
pianist Tito Mattei, (Jottschalk, who had l)een to hear him,
on eomins? out after the concert, was stopped bv the crowd
on the top of the stairs, and saw at his elbow h'is blind foe,
Avho was vaiidy endeavourino; to secure a footiuij; to o-ot
down. Gottschalk, without bciui,' recoo-nized, hei"i)ed liim
down to the door, where the critic metNvith his assistant,
lurnmg round, he asked to whom he was indebted for t)ie
kindness. Gottschalk simply uttered his name, and left.
*rom that day he counted one more admirer, and, we may
say, trained one more frienih
We may add another anecdote as further displavinj? his
character. One evenin<r, by invitation, he plaved at Lord
lud(U-s, m the Champs Elys6es. Cominu; out from tho
party about two o'eloek in the mornin-r— it was a tine,
balmy sununer mornin,<r— he had jiroceeiU'd but a short
distance when he was stopped by a man who held a lar-re
, DlonRSPIlKAL SKETCH.
r„l,l,>.,v. ■• l.a liouis.. ..„ la ";•■./".':',;',. .-.kct,
„,ul «,Ul, •• My p"l n>an 1 l.avi n ^ > > , ..n,. lav,.,,,-,
yoj^torday, luul i ii.iM. a lain .^ luurhase
ioul-^ iin.l no work yf''f^\^^^)^^
l>muHor tlK-in. ' ^'^>^V' T i o no mm^ ban this,"
ta . n> ^orrv niv «j;ooil man, 1 lia\e no moic
^ .1 1 A1....V fiM.'iiiU aniontr others a LK'oK i.iii'i'j
Swit/A-rlan.l. MaiiN ^V^'^'^: "'';', 7,, ^i^^c invited him to
v„„to.l hh,. fro,,, ''•"'l* "t , 'w 'l^w ",'«.ial it >v.ml,l
^'fe^tnsrrtiwr .!;;;:iirL »o,.,o .1... ..„.,
I'aris, and ho yielded. ,,^,,,„„t,,ro Air. Leon Esondier
^'^:;tdertLook><>nrl5are,.u muj.^^^ ^
schalk had nothm.^ read> . , .f^*^" ^ t^'. I will unve you
to take a ivtnsal; he must lm\e a i.iece. .- ^
S)0^ranes if you -^ ^^f^^ ^^ ,^^^^
Bchalk consented, and, ^'^^^^-^^^'^^"^ ^ ^^^^^ critable hiiou,
the next n.orning, ^•<l"n.>os|Hl a le^o c, a^^^^^^ ^^^.1 ^^^
two hours after Gottsehalk had 1 tt
5ii_.„„
COS CERT FOR THE POOR.
45
rds of Front'h
tuniod round
in my jKH-ket,
mt oiH' favour,
I," The luiiu
valk in front.
a(l,sai(l, "Vou
a novifo in the
' said G., "do
"Hun lily '." I'ti-
notliini; to oat
:c mysc'lf, for I
lie to ])UiTliasc
I his jiui'so, saiti,
ore than this,"
leave France for
a Creole family
invited him to
iid hitherto pro-
ion. Finally, in
•neiioial it would
Home time from
'. Leon Esoiidier
lo- a ]tieoo of his
n-, as the proverb
[lis oiroumstanoe,
, catohit." C^ott-
r was not willing
" I will ij;ive you
» At last Gott-
t and five o'eloek
a veritable bijou,
Vom the opera of
init d'ete,' whioh
\h\ Eseudier, who
morning to got it,
o the young artist,
e humidity of the
place, ho was seized witli a jjutrid fever at Los I{ousscs,and
was obliged to send for his friends, who rame immediately,
and it was not until six weeks afterwards that he was in'u
tit condition to be transjiortoil by them to (Jrandson. Miss
M. J> , on his arrival, bestowed upon him the eare
of a sister. After he had recovered suiHcientlv ho set out
for (leneva, from which jilaco delegatidus had Iteen st'ut to
him, inviting him to play. Kvervwliere he was grirted
with the greatest aii]ilause and admiration. Xotwitlistaiid-
ing, liowever, the honours which awaited him, hi' never
ajijicars to have become vainglorious, or to have been car-
ried away by the adulations which surrounded him on all
sides. It was one of tlio most beautiful ti-aits in his cha-
racter that ho never forgot the poor and the sutleriiig ; his
hand was ever open to tht";' wants, and his talents were
always at their disposal. At Geneva, ho gave cont-orts for
the jioor, and at Yverdon one for the bcnetit of a hosjiital
for the aged, Avhich ei.abled them to add another wing to
the building, to which wing they gjivo the name of Gott-
sehalk — which it still bears.
At the period of this visit, Gottselialk was only twenty-
one. As displaj-ing his ]»rogross in art, and the reimtation
which he had achieved, we jirel'er to give some conti'inpo-
raneous criticisms which Jiiarked the ai>prociation of his
sUle, talents, and genius as artist and composer. AVe select
only those which wore Avritton by acknowledged autlK)ri-
ties in musical science.
(Frnm La France Afitslcale, 18 August, ISSO.)
Gottselialk had no otlior reason for goinj,' to Switzerland than to sock
rest, far from the world, and above all from I'aris, that j;r('at fity. He
has arrived in tlie canton de Vand, and will remain there for some days,
silent and unknown, in the midst of a friend's family, haiipy to have him.
Hut notwitlistandinj^ he had taken every ])ossil)le i)reiaution to escajx!
from the eares of cclehrity, his urrne quickly escaped from the valley in
which he was resting on all its echoes, and deputation iifter deputation
has heen sent to him from Geneva invitinj; him to eome there tliat he may
be heard at least once. Tiie celebrated j)ianist resisted as far as he could
all tlie seductions of wliich he has been the object. For nearly a month
he allcfied the siifferin}; state in which he found iiimsidf since his arrival ;
his streiii;th was enfeebled ; his chest, owin;; to the coolness of the climate,
t'xperieiice<l a ditliculty of respiration, in one word, he draiijred himself
along rather than walked. Thanks to (Jod, and to the great care bestow ed
upon him, Gottschalk has regained his health and strcutjtli ; but, as all is
DioanAPiirrAL sketch.
46
ti„. Tirana .lu.'l...ss '•'"l".-^'^ *''";"(-, . ,,,ist, w\...s- ......l.-sty is .miumI .
Vautl.i.T, t.. '•'■li'•i''''^'''''Vi ,, ,.u.vial l.ic .....«s t,...k l.i.n l.v th.; La"'
Tlottschalk will g.. ^';/^'^\ p" ;'\o ,UtUcwiutor..'ason
and will rutiuu from theucc to 1 ai w, to 1>'' l. focii.iKU.
Tu. p.of u,.iv.-.aiity, «'t'(^iri:Si- '- r;:.irVi'-^
• o ..o,M. . Ift Til.' il.iiuaii' of '\'t '" *;" ' , , :. ,, ti.iii" so i.lMiioiii.'iii'l.
,s a rail' '^.m- '" , ,• ^^ i.raiuln's, i> a tinun • . i
'*'t?,:;:Vthis tin.', -^ mu.t .....s.,.. ■- ;;^,^ wos.', inm
,.,.nii>r .,,,.1 o'l.'ln-at.'il Anu'ru'au i>iaiii> ■ ,i„. ,r,.aii.l.'st an.l mo'^t
fonui.lal.U- wlii.l' lias ip i ' I 1 " .„. „ t,,.. u-utun..' Mtl Us
Kranl lias pn'sent.-l to l.un ! 1 ^^•'^ ..rVntri.' l-.m.ls, tl..' in.'lo.l.v sa.lly
„vst..ri....sways,tl..^.carvu..- y li t^^^ „.i^,,,, ,,,,.v u; ask
,,i,„ ,..r ,1.0 '••'■f ■>-t-tucU f AN 1"^^^.^ .,f _„.,, I 1... will, .lay
lJo..tl.ovo.., or a t.iKU.' "» ";"' ' '-.r am o.l' an.l .•.■l.'l.rat.'.l p.-otossoi, Mi.
ii;;-;;v=:uur;;;-u;i*.*^! •*- ■■"■■ "••■ •"- "■ « '
,,lavin.' recalls that ot Liszt oi l"'^' » '; , „,i „f uis .listaiit ,o,m ry,
-^'^!^ " ^""- tL' s..^r;'r;; uiaS y- ^-^^^-"^ ^^-^ •^^'"-' ^"'^"■
£sofUM"'Ha,iil...ula,' tUat n.'t^ro <lan.o ^,„, ,„,.t..o, of last wint.'Vs
y •,,-'.;»..-, marvoll...is .•o...Vos..r '»" 1 ; "^ ' "^r. (iottscl.alk is tw...nty
yi-ars of age.
iFrom U France Musical., 27 Ocinher, 1850.)
GOTTSCHALK IN SWITZEIILASD.
. 1 f <5u-it7('t.land. Tho sojourn of tlioocl.^-
Oottsolialk lias not .ts f \'«f ^^fj^^ ^^ '.^^ of trian.pl.s and f..s,.vals
l,ra,..l artist in tlii« country ^ f J"-;" ."^jf J.,, enthusiastic' as that wh.cli
T, ,.,.,> is r.'rhai.s no example of a cu P"" ' , ,^,^, ,„.en h..ard. lUit
CRITICISMS.
47
wsiMo for I'im to
ml rciiucsts iif tho
)la-i, ai- well as liiT
i,.iit at tlu'iiiiK'Tt-
!■ tlii-u ill til.' tirst
ii.l,l!iM,f tlifsniriV,
II, Mr. Ic lianm 'I"
1(1(1. -sty i-. .'.iii'il ti^
k liiiu'l.y th.' lianl
,.v!i. Fi'.iii til. ■lie.!
tcrwnr.lH to Lyi.ns,
r Hfasiiii.
L. Ksci-DiEU.
,cr, iwn.)
soiii.' .liospii artists,
t.i cmbrac.' it in its
iifT s!i iilifiiciii''""'.
sji.'i'ially.
Mr. (liitts.'halk, Ilii>
event. <1.' se. liini
.. Lirandfst and iii"st
•ksli.>l>s, an.l uhifU
,e n.iitiirn.' witli its
Is tin' ni.'l'"iy sadly
mi),'lit vU\y it; ask
sonata in./' miimr of
Art, and lo' will i>lay
oratiMl iirotVssor, Mr.
■ith the title of grand
nstnuncnt, and wlmso
toncli you to tears m
' his distant country,
,1,1 tlio African sidon-
,i,.teor of last winter's
(lottschalk is twenty
(JUUL-8 ElCllllKUO.)
, 1850.)
s'D.
he soinurn of tlio oel.^-
riani'plis an<l festivals,
lusiastio as that which
has heen heard. Hut
alent has found appre-
,iorth.'(irand Duoh.-ss
iuvitu hiiu to visit her
. 7.1 >•■; /*,"""",""■ ''arriare of tho prnnd duchess wns at the
d.H.r ot he hotel where the artist was, and at „teied the salon of
her HiKhness. M,e was in ^i-at cou'i-any, with her ladies ot honour and
the I nncesses \\(,lkons..ya.id S(,ul;(,yanet. The Kraud duchess con versed
a Ion- time with (.ottschalk, a t^rand collation was afterwards served „„
At tl... re(|iiest of the -raiid duchess, (lottschalk placed hin.s.df at tin",
piano, and all the piec's he jdayed caused hini to receive teilerat.'d f(di.ita-
tions. The;:raii(l(liicliess afterwards present. .(I him, with clianiiJM- .-race,
a little jewel-case, sayiiif,' to him, "This is not a t.'stinioiiv of iiiv a.rmira-
tioii, hut simply a souvenir; let it sometimes recall to von" a peis,,i, whom
yon have inspired with the ^'reatest iiiter.'st !" The hex inclosed a ma''-
iiiliceiit hreast-r in, forine(l l,y an enormous pearl and diamonds from tin)
Jewel-lidx of her lli;,'hlless.
A few days since, (iottsdialk was presented to tho tiueen of Sardinia
who conversed at leiij,'th with him.
Mauik Kscnuuu.
(/nw Mr F,<,lll,lm, (If la G(K,lte ilc l.aufannr, 28 \„ri'mli,,; ISW.)
COXCKRT.S Ol- M|{. (iUTT.SCHALK— \N AKTIST's IMl'KESSIOX.S.
ToTiiK KniToi! OK TiiK 'Iazi-.ttk hh Lai-sa.nnk :
M.any friends haviii- manifested a desire to know the oi.inion of an
artis ^M-(,wn f:ray un,hT tin, harness, and l.eiii;,- wiKii.;; to acknowled;;,,
my old n:„.su.al experi..nce, will you, Mr. Klitor, i.ermit me to commiini-
ca e to you th." impression which the talent of our yount; and alivady so
cehdirated artist has produce(l upon me? •' & / ^"
_^ Behold this full hall ! how many j.ersons hnvo not mentally exdaimed •
It is a piano, ami he -s n( thin^r hut a pianist !" that is true ; hut it is a
h!.Tt'man';"f,S','in.r '''''''''•^' "^ ^"'"^' *"'""'" '" *''" "'"''""' "^"''^' ''"* "'"
As lor the pianist, Mr. Oottsohalk offers an intorostinR study to phvsio-
nomists. \\ hen the crowd has assemhled, r..stless and m. tli.. watcll' .^V
r^it-wr-T!'!? '"•■"',. ■?1'1'"''"- ""'J ■■^». i"torestin;5 coiuiteuaiu.e, a tou'ruuro
latuer p.i.llemaiilike, very pale, his oyes cast down. His physiognomy
sadness!' "'"'■■""•'"''^■' """^ ^''^"^ i'' "' '^" ''i'* features a trace of pain and
sup, rh.r t'llelit ^"'* "■' ^^'° ^'■"'" ^''" "''" '''^"Smz^ ^
Il.avo a moment's patience! tlirso touches, so cohl. so iimonsihle, vou
aie alK>ut lo liea. hecome animated, to wee,,, to sin-, hefore you ; then- is
l(',Mu"V"f i", rr " ","' t" realize this prodigy; y.m at lirst listen with
douht, hut little hy httle y.uir ear hecomes habituated to this tender and
plaintive accent ; you cannot detach yourself fr.m. it, von are conjured
unknown to yours..lf, you yi.dd to a supernatural for.."; and the artist ?
behold how his look hecomes aniniat.-.l, and how his pale tint b..conie:! lit-
tle hy litth3 coloured ! how his featur.'s .-xpn'ss the stilleriii-s ..f his soul ;
how noble his head is and how all his body seems to grow larger; it is an
attraction without .'xample, y.m do not dream of analvzinfr vour sensa-
tions; you ask If It IS music, you apidaud, you cry bravo wi'th all your
might, but without iiremeditation, for it is a siiontaueoiis expression", in-
stinctive of astonishmont and admiration (we, personally, had not even
4H
monuAriiWAr sketch.
i„M..ftinns of l.uii.an HeiiHutioim, \w romU'ia tin m .iii i
J: r i^^Vuiii:;" r ;:::.r«:;';v;:H'^:; ^v... vouai.. i at t..
foot ..f.'v.-ry i.agf ol llaciii.-. , f,,^ „j, ,,13
.:;:!,:;r;,;:.t.;:.,R™s:;,,!;:vs :;;»,.. oi. ;....,.
8inf:in« n«ain his Hong of ""''' ''"•'^J;" ','',, 'I'l.v that .nh...,n silrm.'e a.ul
public whhh maains '"/I'^'^/'^'-y "^. \;; .U' .V,., l,,v.. s-..ul,iu.. .vsth.ss.
Iho eyes of this .auu, l'''*''-, ^ 'f,,^::, 17.., wl,-. he returns to el,ur,u
dis.iuiete<l, not ahle to he still ""^ '^ ' "" ' j, „^ ,,t lirst. And if we a^'aiu
our ears anew, we see th.s >;"''f ".''" 'T;^;^'' Vu.r d tears one ho.ir fr-.n
relleet, that every sound wh>eh he i^au^ts t' j^^;|,;^^, .^ „,„,._ j.j, ,.,,„,„.
'::.S!.S=h:u:;:::!'"f^':i«tai;nUud m that noUe pride without
-;;:;{ ri^^Xe;: "urihjr . .0. h. si-^;.:;:,- -- :
;:^.:it;t::nvrr;:^h":i:^:i!«s;:i:iM:i«b^^^^^^
able to ai.pr.-eiate the an.en.ty of '>''* ' •^'' '. ' ^ „,. ^-ill wateh over him
knowled,' whieh he possesses and '^ ' " \, J ^j.i,,, he takes the
,. the sake .^ 'l' S'l^U ^v^ « ~ "'^ -'-" '^ "'^"'"-^ ""'
jdaee of a father— tins is uio vt./ » ^^^^ Sciiuiwamxk.
friend has for him.
The following is extracted from an artiele, dated Lau-
in that journal under date ot 10 .Novembei, 18oU.
Cft/J'frls^fS.
4n
(■x|)ri's.'i tl.i' mar-
iiifiil vilii-ati', iiiio
iillr, liic liiilldi, tllO
III' sliiuli's, all tlm
villi idciihiiiii anil
for (Hffli'ultii'8 he is
ill (lassii'al iiiii!*i<^
ami i>aiiiful xi'iiti-
11 a l"'ll nix' ^l"f«<i
MMul"! lint iiiiajiiiu)
iiig, iimri! iiuisivi t
w.iulil ranv lis too
Itairi- iilaii-'l at tlio
If )ilaTs for UH liis
.) our »•>•«■«, so much
i(.H wUii'li inviti- us
thfiilly till' iiiiloli'ut
\u<i to his little oun
liat shall we say of
t soli'Uiii silence and
, jirairies at the fool
p and cliarming that
while he is far from
•1' seen him, restless,
I he returns to ehaim
rst. And if we acain
tears one hour from
it is true, liis reeoiu-
uoldu pride without
ream in tliis world ;
lis tlit.uglits turn to-
tliers, and his sisters,
dmirers of his talents
■r he shall go, they
friends who will ho
icter and the feller 1
e will wateh over him
I which he takes tho
lich his admirer and
Cll. SCIIUIWAMHK.
•tide, dated Lau-
ittc'i-son, a oorre-
8, whirh a[ilifarc'd
n\ 1850.
Three hours hefore ihe openin- of tho doors, the hall had heen taken
as if l.y .'ssaiilt. At half p:i>t seven ||„.v «,.,•„ ,,|,|i^-|.,l t,, Inipn.viM. seats
oil the ori'l."stra, the hall not h-'ini; sulli.ieMtl v lar-e to eoiilaiu the erow.l.
At three o'eioik t^.e steamer had hrnu-ht a Kreat numherof |.,'i-soiis fioiil
MorL'.s, \evay, Nyoii, and even fioiu liolh-s, t.-n ha-u.s fro,,, {.au^aiiii".
.] he imhlieeoiiveyaiiees vv hlrh arrived in the iiiorniiij,' were lull of dilettaiili
from Ivurdoa and (Jrandson.
A I'l'iiti'iiilri' (iolisrlinlk, cm finisiTult la vl.>;
I'iir (111 I'lilMHiititH Hcccinl.H III fiiic* imuA I'liilmnti-r;
1,'ion nil ml.' 1,1,'ml, pur m il..iini nm^;!,.,
V.n riivU<:iiit Hum ni'iirs In »;\\a hi'Iim t;ii'i'<piirli'r :
JIaii k1 III III I,' I'lili.'r t'a .Iit.tii6 hi ^-iMir,..
V.t h\ 1,111 ji'iiiic Iroiit u ri'ijn 1,1 liiiirliT,
I'll I'liin ilc.iix d.iiivi'iilr Kuiiiii'lio i^ 111 iiic'iiiuini
Tu KiiH Icl til fiilrc iiiuiiT.
(Friim Ihr diiriir Suisxi-, /.iiiisdniif, 'J.O /immlirr, IS.'iO.)
Mr fiottsehalk K'lve at Yve on, on the 17th uist., a second ronn.pt
•vhich was icieived with the same I'lithnsiasui. ,U an artist he leaves
ns a uiiii|ue and inellalile reniemliraiieH : as a man, he has .'ained our
hearts. No words an- suMirieiitly iiowrfiil to eNpiLss to him our nro-
found sentrnieiits of syiii].atli\-, gratitude, and adniiratioii.
{I'nmi iliv F, million tin Si,\-I,; Ihrii. 1 \„n'iiih,i; lsr,(l,)
The American pianist, fiottschalk, lias very r -eeiillv ohiai 1 in ,=lwilzer-
l.-liid one ot thns" siK sses which oi.e may, notwilhstandiii- /„ /,„„„/,V,- ,,f
tho formula, (pialify as dimeiilt to descrilie. .hiinv hind has almust 1 n
surpassed, for we have never heard that she was carried oil' liodilv This
accident has hapiieiied, it is said, to (lottsehalk. A voiin", iir,".|iv and
robust (ieiievese-irl waited for him at the comin-oiil ot' the ,i,i ,-; 'w h,',„
the inainst liad 1 n covered with flowers, and eiivelopiiii,' him all at oiin,
in a lar-o mantle took him in her arms and carried him olf, which tho
frail and delicato nature of her victim iiermitted her to ,lo easilv to tlio
general consternation. Wo do not know if this he true; we teu'it as it
was told. What is certain is, that the young pianist preeipitatelv left
(.eiieva alter having heen the delight of tl legant s,.,jetv there liv
playing with charming grace his favorite conip.isitious, • Mainhniil.i '''la
havano,' ' le IJananier,' and his capricu on ' lu Soiige ,11111,' unit ,|-,-.t,V
USCAU Cu.M.MK'nA.NT.
At tho conclusion of hU oonoorts, hU tVicnds at (,"rand.
so!i lu'iii^t,^ anxious to liavo liiin, li ■ iinallv concluded to
pass tlic rest of his time at tho old chatcau'thcv inhal.ifod,
which was cclcliratod for a sicsre it hud snstamcd, and at
which 'Charles lo Tcmeraire' was killed ]Iis visit hcin<'-
coiiiiileted, he returnc<l to Paris, where shortly after his
arrival he received an invitation from the Qiuvn of Spain,
who M-as desirous to lu'ar him play 'Le JJamhoida,' which
he had dedicated to her.
On the 12th of January, 1831, Mr. L. Kscudier, in an •
BioauArmcAh sketcij.
sehulk to rui-iH,' writoH iw t.)Uouri.-
(lottBcUalk ImH Riven j'- .;-„7;^ ,f . -l I... 1... H-v.vM --,; than
,,,illi,M.l IVU.. (iot scha Iv . '^ *; ,' ,,i, ,,.,„,„rt. wind. wr» onn.i.l.T-
in 1 sy. At Yvnlou »'•• ' ,^ ^ , ,,^,y„„„ lor II... a^'..,l ; ono w> .«
„r.wrnt.vl to la.u at l.ausan...'. '^^ ';''', ,, ,,• t,„. ,,,11..-.. pr..s..nl...l to
;;;r..s,,on,UM, ........>-. ' ^;;;: V- - .' - lan,l th.. n,.,.oarann, .-f thin
; i;.„t artist. Ho l.as carnnl --^J ^ ^ ^ : \,J ,.„„, r..as..n O.r writ-
^' •-"liJ.ra^y ::ri-.'M';.ttlrU, iLt ... wa. aavu.,cin« at a ra.ul
^^:bSl^":i:^a::;l'o:>;;^a fe. aay« in ran.; .e i. exrocted in
Spain.
13 April, ISul.
•1 n wi,n U thorp who flops not play a littlo
TwPnty /oars .apo thpy saul, fll'; .", J 'Z,;,,,., ,,,,o .lo... not ,.lay on I
on th.. ,.ia>,o r Thoy T.OW ><"' ^^; j ' ^■;,!,,,, ,,,iHl ,.n th.. pianosh.M,hl
vorvwoin" lttl'"'^'''l''V"'''\V '.fT,, hli.. lik..thal..r I'aris., f..r hmi
;;;;,u.t to..layn,.on >'-' ' i;-^;;; ll^^Uhith^!^ with hin. ; an.U.Hunj
t,. , ;,.aa.., charm, in..v,n an.l '-y-^^ '';'"" '^,,,,1 h.!shonl.l join t..,.x....pt.onal
tol,avpanan,li..n...Mlr..H.ur,.sal^ol b^ ;,^. f....Un^r fV.r tho
„,„,i,,a ,,,.,Uti..s --^'V f V, .sJi, n n u a farilitv ..f u...,.hanisu. ...rn.-l
M;htU'ti..s of styl.. 'i>''lof'/;l'7'.' ''?,",, ; ,i,is last n...rit, h- aHt..nish..s
toth..hit,'l..'st.>Ntr,.n>... l'''';:XT ir I n the .•..ntrary, Iw p.'S-
for an instant. th.m tL-y "n. t ,1 of h m- . ^^ „f ,,„.„-
s,,ss... only th.. ..thor '"'"•'J'^' ' '^,,.'^ ^ ;„ \ H„.„n ..on.pany, hut who re-
j.lac.. artists wh..n> ono s.>. ks "' J ";,,%'",,■,,„ ,v,.,,u..nt ,v„u-rts.
Luun po^^..rh■ss to ..xctto tl'-- f- '•' ';^' , ; / „„„,,U of th..so who posB.^«s
Mr. (l..tts..halk .s on.' .1 ;';;,^;.^\ ,„„,.r ..f tho pianist, all tho
all th.. ,lith.r....t ..l..n..;nts ^'^ J^^^^.*^ 'Vn im-sistihl,. pn'sti,'-. He is an ac-
a,trihnt,.s whioh V"^''''''" 'r,. .'^ .ow ar on., n.ay .'arry f.noy in oxpr..B-
ictum nf Gott-
. fit liniisfttini', onrt
jiliiyi'il iiii>ri' tliiin
to «'ay, carrii-'l olf
10 jir ''ill* I'l tlii'S'"
11 iiii.iK'i":'""" ■■'''''
iii;li wiTt! ooimiiliT-
lu' a>,'fil ; oil" ">"H
A l)iiii'iii''t ^v.■^t* 'i';*"
1 wan ornani/.i'il ii»
,.„ll,.;;.' pr.'s.'lit.'il to
(if Swit/.i rlaiiil. At
i in.'ilal iif lioniirary
r(i tD fmiiiicrato all
ni>ii<'arancit "f tin**
liiw.TS, ftiwl v.n-atlirt
,m«hI ri'asdii fur writ-
[^ivaiiciug at a raiiM
lio ia cxpcetoil in
M- at this pcM-iod
niV()iuthoi>on of
(•nticnf Kiiroi>e,
OS Debuts,' I'ui'iri,
)<\np<* not, play a littlo
vlio.loi's licit i>lay on it
irtlKll tlif !'•»"" **''""^'^
. that of I'arisi, for liim
witliliiiii; aiiilforliiiii
mill join to I'Xfi'iitioiial
,,uisi'to f.'.'liii^' for till'
(if iiii'i'liauisiii (^arrii'<l
istiiKTit.lwastoiiislu^s
the contrary, li'' l>o«-
. c'ati'!.rory of coniuKin-
(■(iiiijiaiiy, Imt who ro-
iicut ci.nci'rt!*.
■r of tlioi^o wlio possess
(if tlio jiianist, all tlio
pi-Lstif.'.'. ll«' i>< iin "t'-
,• carrv fniicv i" oxpr.-s-
tics taki'U with rhythm
it ho lU'Vfr traiisi'<'ii'l«.
g sweet molodios and of
CRITK'ISMS.
51
srath'rlnK tho lijilit pnasasri-s from the top of tli.> ki'y-1«-.aril. As to |ircs-
ti's^c, fiijfui', fclat, lirio, iirij^iiiality, IiIm playing s'liikcs from the IliHf,
ila/./.lc'H, n«|iiiii.slics ; aii>l flic iMfaiitiiic siiiiiiliiily of his siiiiliiiK capriirsl
tho ijianiiiii;.' raHo with wlii.h lie ninliTs Niiiijili- IhiiiKS. »>• .|ii tn hcldiiij
to a Mcnmil iinliviiliiality, distinct fmin tliat wliiih iliaractcrj/cs his
thiindcrint' ciicrnics. 'I'lic siuccss. also, nf Mr. <intlsclifilk nlicii lii<
is III the pich •(• (if a I'ivillzcd muHicnl audience, is jiiiiiiciise. Tlicre i<i
applause, traiisp.irl, which, tar from causing,' (Hie td fed that vexatimis
irritation caused hy facliti.iiis, exaK«er.ited, or ridiculous cnthusiisiii. nf
whiih we so iifleil have the spectacle, ime is liap|iv to see and henr. At
tlie concert which lie f,'av.i last month in the Hall lloiiiie Nouvelle, tlie
UrcMter jiart of his pi s were encored. Further, Mr. (Joltsclmlk, (.u that
evening', merit. 'd a eiil ifiy superior to those which I havo already ^iveii
to him; he executed in the most masterly luauner the sonata in ,i of
Heellioveii, the style ami foi m of which I'lo not ajiproach in aiiv wav
the style or .''aiiiiliar forms nf real i.iaiio iiiiisic. It is impossil.lc to p|,i"v
hetter the andante, to ^.-ive more relief to the thousand aiMlies.|iies of lie-
variations, and to hetter direct the last course of the liiiah) without IcltiiiK
it lose anylhiii;; of its ciintinual and vertiginous anlmir.
I'lcsidcs, to apprecijite, as they should he, talents of this nature re-
quires special critics— as is done hy Ijs/t in his ndmirahle xtiidv just
puhlisliud ill tho journal ' La Musiiiue," on Chopin.
{Fiitm t/in rmiJIiliin <le V Asurmblre Ktiliimtic, Purls, 'JO April, IS.M.)
Imnicliately after the solemnities of Kaster, tlit- series of mundane
conceits recoiiuneiiccMl with more fury than ever. Mr. (iott-chalk has
Civeii at I'leyel'sasoinV for the hencfi't of tho workmen who had sustained
losses owiii;; to the lire. Never was the reputation and vouue of an artist
so promptly and generally established as that which .Mr. (iottschalk ciijovs
to-day. And, nevertheless, then- have heeii neithi'r pompons imtl's nor
any sort of ( harlataiiism. Mr. (iottschalk was horn at .New (trlcans, and
came to Paris to tinish his studies, lie received lessons on the piano from
that excidlent prolessor, .Mr. .'^taniaty, and studied harinonv and coni-
positlon with an ahle th.M.iist, .Mr. .Maleden. All these laliours were,
however, only those of an amateur; hut, unknown to himself, the ania-
teur was already an artist, a ereat artist. The memories of childl I
recalliMl to him the n.'ero airs to w liicli he hail lie.'ii nui^eil, ho translated
theiii npon his key-hoard, and we have the ' liananier,' the • liamhoula.' the
' Manceiiillier,' and those charniiui,' and simiilo melodies which art and
scicie'c extract in the most ilistineiiishcd wtxy. .Mr. (iottschalk has he-
<■" "i" man a la mode, the indispeiisahle pianist. I!ut the puMic who
idoli/.e him are nnmercifiil to him. When Mr. (iottschalk Iihs pl.ayed a
]iiece, they cry his ; thronfjli excess of coi;rte-y the younj; pianist plays a
new riiie. the audience, more ami more enclianteil, jiVain demaiel his.' the
jierforncT jilays ai;ain a new |iiece, which thev a;rain tvi-h to hear n-
pe.-ited, and it wouhl not he rij;ht hecause their demaml would not stop
li.'foiv the inexhaustihle complaisance of the author. \Vc have seen this
exchani.'e take plai'c four or live times in succession. «
Mr. (iottschalk has all the >;race ami charm of Chopin, with more de-
cided character; less magisterial than Th.alhere, he has, i.erliaps, more
warmth ; less severe than rriident, he has more fjrace and (dejrance. And
then, all his (lieces are very short, and a great wav always to please is
not to wish to jday too long. Au. Au'a.m (de I'lnstitut). '
52
liionnAPincAi. sKi-rcii.
oottschalk's* soiufiK.
...).alk: "A ..•.■•" ■"•"^^ '" '''"'"^ ' , V .N . m 1 • viU l.-. l.Horo
i::x r;;:t-i;f ^i:^:^;;;;3 s£ E;; rS
".,irf.. has been dedsivo, 1 will ov.u say truimi.hal. L«> ^ i'".H.
Dm'ii.- tlR. winter at Paris l.o ,truvo sovonil ccn.yrts all
o\- which sLrHU'<l to iucivasf his ivi-utatu-u us an artist aiul
a iiiuu. We take the following—
(From the Fcuilleton da Corsnirc, Puris, IG M,ireh, 1851.)
Uni f:nU..l.alk was tho groat surp.iHc ainl attractim. of tUo ..voiunR.
I, wm l^i u:.I^lo to t..ll you tl>- ..ntl.usia>,nwlu..l; I.; ox., -a
llios a«ay ou lightnings, ho gives a uew piece, luore t.auu.ng than
'■/;//■/< /s.us.
68
■ior tali'iit of (Jott-
■ riiriii-' witli him
IIm will 1"', lii'lor.)
>1 iif til.' iiiiiiii'."
n ^;iiiiit. Ill Olio
II. (I liiiii till' syiii-
-(l;iy 111' Ht;iii(ii iu
s lire iiw;iil'''l vsitU
liut in wuiidiifiil to
riit tlic .yiiiit.' .•mil
<icinliH, rc.iii|MWi'rs,
IHMlMtc'tttillllf Hlll)o-
,-.l to Kirir.rs ll.ill
(cciiniiaiiii'l lli''iii'.
,•,. if tlli'V li.ul IK't
V liapIii'llH too ottcu
"iiinst cntliiisiiistii'.
iidst'lc'lici'ius ])iccc.8
■^iiiil tliat a shower
.■IVri'tol' ' lt,lli:illi«T'
iiiiiiuli'S, aii'l tiott-
■ must I'lithii-iiiivtic
iau,' a Mnzmka, 'la
could ii.ilsav wliiih
atUiMi is, that thorn
hoch';;aiico, aiiil tlie
ilioula.' ' laSavaiii','
hicli hohl you coii-
(iiic ; ho is a iiianisl
r. His insiiiratiniis,
•ou, ami his iilayiug
Icavo its luark, wo
llio »tiu<turo. This
KrttlDIIUi.
oriil ('(iiiivrts, all
L uri an artist aiul
„rrh, IPr.l.)
•tiou of ttio ovoiiiiiK.
which ho cxcito.l at
r luorits, (iottsrhalk's
n as th(! jiiauist lias
iM'ifoot t;i''"''' '• '"'' "
he last iiioloily, which
u c.avmiiig than tliu
flMt. Tli.> ftu.lh'iK'n ntfnhi cry oucic win, all thrlr powop ; fhcv ,|,.i,imi,1
"". i''"7 '■"•;","•• " .•''.''■'": !''■'>- ^' "'''■'' •■'"■ ""■■"■ I 'loni „:.t.u''i„ .t
• , 7?"" M .";'';,"' "" '"■'«""»'. l"'"'"'-'. •■""1 inarvclluuH. Arte- U„tlH, ha k
(/■'("HI an ,„li,!,- in An /Vf/iicc .l/,(s„„/f, J)iri.i, '23 Mimh, IS.M.)
Yo« (h.ttschalk w-,.. Innt Tii....ln.v n-hnirahl.., ,„arv,.|l„UH, innu,.,,.,..
f '"•': ""• r''""; ^ '■""••• ' '•" ""' ><"""• " '"oro wnithv naiu- thau h,> to
hoinuiM|.h:,Mtly carrici ji.tu the w.uM of art. I |.itv these who were i„,t
lu-oeui at this nieiMoral.le sniri'e ; to the,,, ,„ie does not know how to ...ve
an idea o| the unsur|,assed talent of (ioitsehalk. Talent ' | ,„|„|,, ,,,"..,,,
Benms; for the vouiik pianist hrin^'s into the worhl so encmuhered wl'li,
j.nimHt coi,i|iosers a lo'w lorni and ideas of which i can coi,i,.«t ,|,c
.ater.u.y will, him (iutiM halk |,layed ei^d.t ,,i s; live we, nco.vd
n the midst o( a|.|,|."iise. which hurst out after each i-hraso or each varia-
tion, with an ejecirifyiiitr clliMt.
(iottschalk is now upon a throne ; to overthrow him v o,ild ivoiiiiv moro
thau a rovolutioM to take place in the [liaiio ami mnoi.fc' pianistsl
lii:o.v I'iscriiiKK,
{I'lim itn iirlirlr i,i [.,< Clmnniii, ]\iris, Murrh 2'^, ]>:,1.)
Ahov„„lI it is the sentiment which HelzoH niH, n.Kl .arries me aloUL'
with It 111 the won.h.rlnl execution of Mr. (iotfschnlk. The uiost ililelli-
Keiit and most inspired orchestra in tlio world (even if it was the Conser-
vatoire s could not luterpicl the .entree of th,.' Concerto' of WelM.rhetter
hau (iottschalk ,l,d. t would I,, i,|ivdillic,.lt to render the ^..vat
piuLo ot IJeuthoveii with more warmth in,l force th.iii he.
T.VXIl.K llKI.oIlli.
Tho fulI.nviMg iK l.y Tlit'oplalo CJuuIk'I', tliu cTlchiatL'.l
ri'i'iicli ('fit If : —
(/•';om /■h,!l//lnn tlv In Pn.i^r, Ihri.i, 31 Afnirl,, ]K>1.)
An orifrinality marked hy ^^M,d taste and a littl centricitv, ilovoi.l
of charlatanism have always appeared to us the two chh.f ,,„alities i„ ,,.,
artist ol true tahnt ; we have Mkewise suhmitted ourselves unreserv! dl"
fir '\ rim ;'.'",' "' T"}V^'-' ;""' "'' '•"''"''■■•"i"" •■'-• ^I''- "ottschalk froui the
(Irst time that we had the pleasure of hearing him. Am.uiK o„r il.,r
pianists to-day there are hut few who hav,. known h..w to creat,. for them-
selves an iiicontestahle individuality. I.jszt, IV-ict, and Thalhen- ..p.
the ,,oints of comparison ordinarily .liosen hy t;.c puolic whe,, it ,irsircs
to measure the value of their imitalor.s or of their followers without
knowiiif; It. iiMoiii,
II is, then, nmreilifflcnlt than one mi-ht rhink to,leparf from the l„.ateu
Vn r M . 1 ''V'" 'l" ""■",';■'" ''''■' '-''""J-'^i'l" ll'ose of the masters. If
Mdualit.v which escapes so -uany others, it is perhaps owiu- to tl„. fact
that alter having fonued his talent hy .solid sludie,,. he has lefl i, o
h-i!^" Vm^'mT V'l' *'"' f!""™" ^"^•"■"■^'s of his country, fro,,, which l,o
has biou-ht hack tons the colours and iiorfumes. What ideascs us ih
54
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
niusio, as in all other things, is novolty ; and wo have also been as m« 1
c annVrby the n>..l.>,lious ccrin of tho Amencan artist, as "■ e alroa >
ha^'t e M. by the chants of tho Muew.in, and the reyer.es under the pa «
which i^i'feu David and Ernest Keyer have noted with their souvenn.
"'Arilis'last concert, Gottschalk had the applause of tho vrhole ball
TlH. ' S-n ie^ eneo're, and tho young artist yielded himself wUbon
aieetation, and with the most perfect courtesy, to tho demands ol hi=
audience.
CIIArTER VI.
Gottschalk returned from Switzerland in Oc-toV.er.
Shortly after his arrival in Paris he reeeived »" invitation
from the (iueen of Spain, to whom he had dedieated It
Bamhonla,' to visit Ma.lrid. His iiime as an ^^
rearhed her ears, and she was desirous ot hearing him.
Durino- the winter he gave several eoneerts m J ans. .\t
this i,rriod his father arrived from New Orleans o,, a visi
to hil tiunily. It was very touehiiig to see the V^^^/^
hai.piness of the tather at heholdmg the suceess (;t In.
nuirh loved son f<n- whom he had made so many sa "rifiees
After several months passed together Gottsciialk set out
for Madrid in oomrany with his father, who Yaydecl ^ b
him as far as Bordeaux, where they par ed ^;ott halk
ao-reeing to meet his father m the United States the to 1-
Imvin- sprino-. The newsi-apers of the south ot 1 ra.jec. had
all hmdded^his coming, and he ;^^«%^^-^'V«^^^^''\ 'y\'.V -l !','
greatest enthusiasm. After eavmg Boi^eaux ^e Mjited
I'au, Tarbes. Bavonne, and other places ot note. Hi- tame
liad precede.1 liini, an<l every additiona concert seeuK'd onl)
to increase it. Not only was he admired as an ai-tist tuu
composer, but as a philanthropist and as one of the m >
cburitable and u'eiierous of men. _ Concerts were given loi
ihe benetit of the poor, and donations made to hospitaK
Vhile at Bordimx Mgr. Donnet, Cardinal .Arc-ld)ishop
of r.ordeaux, i-'ave him a grand dinner, at which manj
hishops an.l other .lignitaries of the church were prc^e i •
As conveying the best idea of the impression he made and
I been as much
as 'Vf already
luler the palms
huir souvenirs
ho whole hall,
liiiiself without
Aeuiauds of his
in Oi't()V)or.
an invitation
:k-(licatL'(l ' K'
in artifit bad
lioarino; liini.
in I'aris. At
ans on a visit
:lie ]ii-i(lo and
mwoss of Ins
any sa 'i-ifiecs.
C'iialk sot ont
travclod with
;1, Gottsclialk
States the tbl-
of France liad
mod with the
ux lie visite<l
)te. His fame
rt scern'.'d only
s an artist and
ue of the in()st
kverc given for
to hospitals,
lal Arehbishop
:, whieh many
1 were present,
m he made and
CRITICISMS.
65
the maimer in winch lie was received, wo refer to the fob
lowing coiitomporaiieouH notices and criticisms: —
{From the. Courrnr de !u Gironde, Bordeaux, 20 June, IS.'il.)
Tho last Wednwday of Mr. and Madme. was magnificent. Not-
withstandin); tropiial heat and tlie seductions of the country, « hiih re-
tained all tliu r/ite of our society in their cliateaux and vilUs, tlie salons
of Afr. and Madnie. were literally invaded.
I'radier, tho great sculptor, tho author of so many chefs (riniire, tho
Praxiteles of th's nineteenth century, on his way througli Hordeaux, was
presi'iit at this delightful sdin'e, at wliich Mad. hahorde, the adniiral)le
cantatrice, and (iottsc;!alk, tho celcLrated pianist, had very willingly lout
their si'rvices.
As to tiottschalk everybody knows the iinnienso elTect which he alwavs
produces. At half-past two in the morning he was still at the piano;
applauded, surrounded, fitted, they gave liim no r.'st. After many of his
new and nnpublishecl compositions, they wished to hear again ' Mancenil-
lier,' the ' Dansedes Omlires,' ' (rod fea\e the Queen,' ' LaCluisse du.leiine
Henri,' ' Lucia,' the ' Carnaval de Venise,' tho ' Mouvement iierpeluel'
of Welior. What nH)rc ca'\ I say ? A pianist who can hold his audience
for two hours breathless ! What a miracle ! A. Uoldi.v.
(From the Memorial Bordelais, Bordeaux, 19 June, IS,')!.)
A grand concert for the benefit of tho poor is announced soon to take
place, in tho hall of the (Irand Theatre, tr) bo given before his departure
for Spain, by our illustrious i)ianist, Gottsclialk.
This noble iilea will mi'ct with t)ie unanimous sympathy cf our people.
Mr. (iottschalk also has to go to Libourne next Monday, where a musi-
cal festival for the benefit of the jioor has lik(!wise been organized.
Honour to tho great artist who kuows how to combine a great heart with
great talents !
(From L'Ami des Arts, Bordeaux, 15 June, 1851.)
In an article on Mr, Gottsclialk, Mr. G. liarthelemon says : "
) have found in Mr. Gottsclialk a peculiar cachet ; he does i
As at first,
not imitate
any one : his playing is neither tiiat ot Liszt nor of Thalberg: it is still
better— that of Gottschalk."
In an article in 'L'Agent Dramatiqne,' of Tonlouso,
8 Jmie, 1851, Mr. Barthelemon, from Bordeaux, under date
of 31 May, says: —
Enthusiasm carries us away. Figure to yourself a pale young man. with
regular features, and such hands as are seldom made. It is (Jottschalk.
Gottschalk is one of those <7iVe organizations who make their souls jiass
into a piano-case and then come out again by striking on the key-board.
Talent more i)ure and more brilliant never charm I our ear ; the audacitv
and thunder of Liszt are tempereil in him with the melodious sentiments of
the (Jernian masters. His elegant compositions acquire under Lis liugers
a grace, which cannot bo deaciibetl.
66
BIOGRAPHICAL SKKTCU.
Thus, whil- the ngh han.l 'l^'^. f-'^..^^'^^, " " u ' v. rliginous rai-iaity, Hi,.,
fn.m one -lul ot the 1^' >-'"""' ,.,^„.^ „,■ „,. .i„s an.l of chn.u.atie tia.ts.
tuemeloay is never h,s, una., the U^^^ X^,. ,^^^ „.,^.. j, ,,
it always detaches itsell willi I'l-aiiy ^ Saist-Uikil Dri-ouv.
ijure, as velvety as tlie Urst.
a-yo,n .ke C,„nri.r ,k la Gimn.le, B.r.k.n.r, 21 M,„ 1S51.)
Mr. uottschai. will leave ^^:^^^^t::^:::: ::;;;: j^i^i^"^^
an.l as a uiau, for the generosity of his Ui-aii ^^ Uou.i.n.
iiieuse talent.
Af.. I' ILirtlielcmoii, uKakiiil? in tlic 'AtiiI ilw Arts' of
his concluding rcuiarks;—
Mav we 1,0 remitted t. say in ^-}f^::^:^^,^:^^^
;^:.ar'-;?verr^e^S t^U itT^j; U.i. trait;sin.,le as it is, is that ol
'^ifSorirto fln,l all these qualities united in the same man : talent,
modesty, bounty, and t-'i'";'""';''-. , .,,„„. ,.„„„„ persons who on Thursday
,,;i;?„*;;s,.i;:n;i: «>':■■«' ;L,/v,u«"i„u. ..a «.«■«
and will say with them:— ,,,,,, i,._^,is to plory, to
will be blessed by the poor !
(From rimUcateur, Bordeaux, 20 Jub,, 1P51.)
, X, f< ..t«,.h'.lk for the henefit of the poor has
!r;;;i",ss" ^-^iSvl ■'-'"--"■' "-"'t"?-^
CIiITlCls^fs.
57
frnm the Cmirricr
tiiiio, it eli.iinis.
L !ill its cDiiliiurs,
,us nii>iility, lliort
loiiml till- iiii'li>'ly
t:lir()iiiatii; traits.
to di'scriln' ; liilt
wliicli rovcis it ;
ii; last uott' is iiS
-KlElL Dll'OL'V.
,„; 18;)!.)
ivciiir as an artist
, fqiial to liis im-
A. IVniii.N.
mi cU'S Arts' of
10 poor, wiys, in
tsclialk, aft IT liav-
aiiil to tin" I"""" *'"'
< of A 'li' S? •
tiow.'is h>' liail just
lo as it is, is tliat of
! samo man : taU-nt,
lis who on Tliursday
and delicate hands,
1 h'ads to plory, to
tlie iiowerful I— you
1851.)
ii'fit of the poor has
of lient>vol('ni:o, pro-
ul to those for wlioni
ans and aniat.'urs of
tliv eagerness. The
;1 were not the K'ast
ahuost the same as
)Ut tlie risk of reiieat-
void the difficulty, let
.ctTt to the other took
at the ai)l)lause, the
bravos, and transports of ndujiration were not diseontlnued; and that to
tlie ^,■ltis^a(•tion nt havinj; liecu alile t<' l^ave to tlu' unfortunate of onr citv
a ter>tiniony of his symi)atliy, lie lias also liei^n aide to eonvinc.! himscif
how iiiueh the i.nMie was senslMe of this aet of geniTositv on his ])art,
and how much his rieh and heautiful talent wa.s felt "and wortiiily
ainireeiated liy it.
The tiisiiiihlv of the coneert was fine, although rather grave. A pieee
for two pianos, on '.lerusah'ur (the opera hy Verdi), composed exprecslv
for til is ociasioii, whilst founded on meloilies of rather weak value, was
given, neverlhcd.'ss, with conspicuous ellect, thanks to the vigour of its
execution, which caused it to he warmly ajiplauded.
After iviimining about" two iiiontlis in J^onloiUix CJott-
sc'lialk iirocci'di'd on liis joiiruoy. ^«t(i|ijiiiio- at J'aii, lie
tcavc a (■(iiuri-t wliich Iirouirlit out an article from Mr.
ratriek 0'(^iiin, memlier of the Corjis J.eo'islatif. It con-
tains many tliiiio-s with which the ri'ader has already heen
iiiade aeiiiiaiuted; hut weghe it as a piece of contemporary
history.
(Fi'im the Mi'moridl (lot Pi/n'w'is, Pan, (j Aikjii.sI, Is.'il.)
A few years since there arrived at I'aris the son ( f a gentleman of Lonisi-
an.-i. In that country, wliert- the reiiiemhr.iiu'e if Fr;ir,ce is not ellaccd,
it is the dream of families to give their children a Kn mh and jiarticn-
larly a J'arisian education. He, thanks to his parents' fortune, received
lessons from the hest masters; he learned fencing from (irisier, horse-
manship from I'ellier, and IStamaty taught him the piano; without reck-
oning (ireek, Latin, and the rest. One day .Stamaty, his joofcssor of the
liiano, discovered in the child a marvellous aptitude for this instrument,
riaoed opposite the key-l>oa:'d, he was already more than a scholar, and
besides the mechanical perfection attained only hy practice, he gave, by
a thousand traits, marks of an artist. At the end of a short time tjtamaty
had nothing more to teaeh him.
(ireek and Latin, the riding-school, and the fenoing-hall, one may Judge,
were then somewhat ahandoned. The child, heoonie ayoungman, t'l It him-
self led by an irresistible vocation, lie g;ive himself "np to it with .irdoiir,
with passion, and he then commenced hard and persevering studies, the
prelude to success of all great artists, (ienius in the rough does not throw
out great lustre, and it is just ; to burn with all its lires the diamond
reijuires cutting ; the talent which owes nothing to labour is a chinnra of
idleness, a iiull'ed-u]> invention of unappreciated genius.
Is it necessary to say that this young man was (iottschalk ? Some time
afterwards nothing w;is sjioken about in the musical world of I'aris except
of a great jiianist, the rival of Liszt, of Chopin, and of Tlialberg. It was,
who should hear (iottschalk, or who should appbiiid his ni'gro chant of
' Hamboula' so original and languishing, or who should admire the eminent
artist, and at the same time tlu' composer of the I'lite, for this new artist
was both the one and the other. Only some juivileged salons, that of
Madame Merlin, or of M. Orlila, for examjde, had yet the monopoly of
Gottschalk ; and when, one year after, during the winter of ib-i'J, ho ap-
BIOGRAPniCAL SKETCH.
m
^8
peared in public for the first time. hiB name was already cclobratct. and
his success ^'''^'^l']\^^'l^- . from his d^'Ut Oottschalk was Rr ■^etcd ouo of
Tliat success was uumenst , '^om uis ,._„.„i,,r ' ' Ossian,' ' la Savau.','
the nuasters of his ar . U ^'^^^J^^^^^^^r. licrlioz, Fiorcntiuo,
and twenty other del.cu.UH «"'» "«^'° . ( ,,. ,.„, ...ine.l a reputation
Escudier, '"'''"Pl'^'^^^r drluMe re "tation, and ren^U-red lion.age to
i„.nticisn.,howo.ll)etoro his^^m^^^^^^^^^ ^^ it, received tlie
hiu.. (.L.ttschalk had thus o. o .lay, ^^ . 'f ^..^ ,.^„ o„,y g,v«.
baptism of ^«"»«-'\,^-'''teuJd ^ war^^^^^^ '''^ J"""'"^ ^f
Summer camo, he tr^vellwl u)« ar ..^cited an enthusiasm which
notlun^lmtahmgovation At .uc^a^^^^^^ ^,i„^^^^ ,,,„l u.o
amounted to frenzy. /^^'^ " ^' /Jk^.f es ecMu. At Lausanne they
Queen of tiar.linia loaded hnn witl "'"'^'^/'|/'';; V ,. admiration took
^;.wh..hned hin. -ith Jowers ^^^-^^^X ,!g:.'^-tS>. At last
an alarming character lor this "'^'V^"Vvi,.vviTiL'beea applauded and
^fter havii^g played in ^^^-'^f;^^r^^^-^^^'^r,.o.
f,te.l ..verywherc and '^^^}^'"'^^^;^,U retained him for two
;;iS; t^m he;;^n:imf l^iJZ hi^'^w come to us on his road to Spain,
where otlier crowns await him. j ^ ^■^^Q flrgt
A salon, always ^<^'^V^^^^^^£^i^,Z^Znc.,...>.n\>\.A in
elevated by talent, 'a'reception worthy of him.
(From UlnternatUmal, Bayonne, 15 Septmber, 1851.)
Many Journals of M.lrid the ' ^^^^^^ ^':::^:^ ^^^^
-^;:ra:^^r"^rS;ir ^1 l^eblo-r L these words :-
GOTTSCHALK.
Wo have the pleasure of --u-ing to »- -f-]^''^} ^^^ ^^^Jl^li^
monic Circles will P.^'Y '— S'^^, :\ i' ,ne^ tho distinguished
the celebrate.1 pianist ^'"»'^' f. •"•*'• '''',^1^1,^ has been passed on him,
musician who has '";;f «[ „^ ."^ \", fi'\U ma vel ous execution of Listz,
Se^aJlu^^ally wi: riS^sta;^il^»^i«e -ong those of the Thalbergs
and the I'r'i;!''"**';. „ v^cmlier Theophilo Gautier, Patrick O'Quin. de
L£::s;'a;d'S:;':;t.;^'Si:i;rId Cities, have tendered the homage
'^^V^'''''.te^Tn^he Commencement of this month concerts at Biar-
UrC'^^lgel^givlt^tl&o a sentiment which moves the heart as
^tr;in.Si tr hav/t:- opportunity of a-l-^ng tins notability
who^ thi foreign press pictures to us as the beau rd.al of «j P'--^;^^^^
ARRIVAL AT MADRID.
59
f colo1)rntLii, and
vasgr !otc<lonoof
iaii,' MaSavaiio,'
•rlioz, FioriJiitino,
tilled a reputation
lulcred liDiuagf to
T it, received the
can only give,
liis journey waa
.■nthusiasm which
Weimar and tlio
\t Lausanne they
r admiration took
lization. At last,
oa applauded and
e, last winter, new
ained him for two
his road to Spain,
, has from tho first
ence, assembled in
Die iu character as
851.)
rsor,' tho 'Trilmne
ity of tho celebrated
iu these words : —
s, that the Philhar-
Madrid in honour of
a, tlio distinguished
eon passed on him,
execution of Listz,
lose of the Thalberga
Patrick O'Quin, de
jndered tho homage
th concerts at Biar-
if France has ?poken.
to Madrid, wo know
some other important
[list has said of him,
moves the lieart as
irinp this notability
a/ of a pianist.
H. Da Costa.
CHAPTER VII.
Ox 1,19 arrival in Spain he found honours and triunirihs
awamnir him gmiter than ho liad cvor recrivod hvi\nv.
At 15ih(,a, tho tinst .Spanish oity in which lie i.h-vo.l, ho
g^ivo threo concerts in seven days. The entire mvipts of
tJie third concert were placed in the hands of the mmiici-
pal authorities to he devoted to the Maison <le Charite.
J he Ajuntamionto the directors of the hospital, and tho
elerp acknowledged the receipt witli the warmest thanks.
Un l-is arrival at Madrid he wrote to his father tho fol-
lowing letters : —
Madkid, 17 November, 1851.
The Queen has not yet decided to allow mo to play before her The
nob lay show themselves somewhat reserved towards me. t is saf.l tha?
the Queen, on hearing that I am an American, exclaimed that she wo id
never patronue an artist of tliat nation. Whotlier th , „. ," n t
he .•amour of it has spread abroad, and the courtiers dislike t 1 w mo
too marked a degree of courfsy, for fear of irrititing Her Ma , tv ^
cannot, however, complain now ; they are all excessively amiable tow/irds
me, and for this reason : li a Kxcelleney the Dnko nf l<i.,,w. , 1 i i ?
of the Queen Dowager Christina, re^!i;^''n^t ,^o iy^a m •ti:;:^'^;!^
in the kin.lest manner possible. The Queen Dowi.Jer !,"« J ,. . *
invitati.m tothe ball aiid supperwl,ieli'r"J';:r^;r
1. h list, to celebrate the anniversary of tho bfrthday of 1 er daughter
Madrid, 19 November, 1851.
honour that could Vo^^u;;C^;i:.^ n^' lli 'ei.^'tl ^hS,;;;
the ,,rst artist ever admitted so freely to tho private apa^^iUs oMh^
My Secretary immediately donned his best coat, white kid gloves etc
and escorted my two pianos to the parlour of Her >fai..sty At -) „V ., U
in the evening, tho King's pianist came for me and ,. a cnririer . a^
hour we were at the foot of tho grand staircase of the pal^ce^ '
60
mOGRAnilCAL SKETCH.
M tho to, „f ,1... st.in.as.., two s..ntiu...s Hto,,,- ^X.^T s^t
iu^r thi'iiisrlv.'s, .■111 attiaUHi i.v ( •'■,.,.,.,.,,,, ^ .yliit.' silk stoikiiiK's,
Mm. cloth ..mlToiaeiva with gold, KiU'i' l)ltw lii s, \\ im. . , • , ^^^
s,i»aiT-shi.iM.,l apiu-tnu.ut, at on,- m.I. ..t '{ ^ '' '\,.,, t„ ,,,,.ivo us.
,,„t'. it is a fort, HI., for Si-am to l'"^^ p^,,--^ j ^ " liTa ,U' au,l p-a.M'ful
...utation is '-;:>- --'-;.::i/7i;,;> si. "vial,. a.., h..tv..ry
youii«uianwasth..Kuij;. ^/ 7' "' ' .,!!^,,,,,. .^„.i salut.'d mo with the
(liK'iiitiu.l aii.l .-ourb.ous, l•o^o at my ^"\ ""• 7. , . ^,,. ,.,,,.,1^ s,„o,l the
u/^aost allahility. Tho ^^ -;;'--«;;;■ S'kU wiU. tru. .MicaLy
approach. Tlio King cam.' "'■'■'r "'" f "'\^'^ '\' '~ j ,,,„, d,.,„.„ isa-
U he (iuccu :•• The tapestry over * '^;. '>"."' ,\\f.,:"^,'t ZlvL, smile.
bella enterea. She receive.l »»' -"J "''^^lon w th t he m s _ ra ^^,^^ ^^^ ^
The Queen is very tall ami ^ <•';• .^'\'^,.i'"'' a er a mou'ieiit's silence,
chestnut colour. an,l lips nicl.ne.l o 'i^h " ;,r y ,u are perfectly rea.ly
l,cr Majesty said to me >" ^P'^";;; '- ,„',,,;";«. -^ I lirst played 'my duo
to play, Monsieur, I shall he ha py to 'l-^'"^ .y""' . ■ V \ ,,,..ira i„,r
f„r\wo pianos, assist.-d by the ^^f^^^'^^^JlXS.^y' chair. The
Majestv rise, leave her seat, ""^^ 'l'^*^' ' ^^ ,Vtt " l)owaf;er a little
Kins >Cas to my right leaning «'" *''« P'^ ; ^ ,,^ ' Vx laim in Spanish,
farther olV. Several times I ^;''''''\. '\'^,*' '.^7.^ the piece was over, the
.. Inever heard anything so «•;»'"'; ^%J^ ^,M to n.e : "Very
King came an-l complimented me, and t"^ ;','," „,, ^j,,,, re.uieste.l
g.,od, Monsieur (iottschalk, that was -^J''^ ^.^^ .U that 'you in
the ' Hananier,' one of niy own ->"n'- I' ' ; "' t'^,, ,, , the King ; " it is
r^^'Kir y n^i; "' 1 'iS^^ thJ ^S;!' .nd the Uueeu and her
QU£E\ cmuST/SA.
61
An otripor afketl
!>; .mil-.'i-y r^pl. ■li-
ned a liallii'iiliiT
liciT ri'i'i'ivcil us,
.voncli'il'ully liiil-
tilll, lilK'-lodkillg
I'lrciil.'ui', wiinu-
of tlii'ir (insH nf
,■ silk st(irkin);s,
;C(l ill till' lic'lu'st
alli'd us into tlio
iiuiiiiro of till)
,.sty. A iiioiiii'iit
livi' or six gn-at
ty, awaiting H*'''
came at last to a
1 door, liiddi'ii by
was to rwcivo ns.
i-ivato signal, llo
,t wliicli filled tlio
)i)d lieltire iiif, and
and tone of voice :
a man of your tal-
wliose Nvidesiireiid
lialili' and graiM'ful
rtain age, Initvery
Inted mo with tlio
er eliair stood tlio
, with truo delicacy
et, all alone, hcfoio
I near me tliewholo
lished, or courteous
words which go to
iced llcr Majesty's
sieiir (iottschalk, it
icd, and Qrcen Isa-
iiost gracious smile,
lilne eyes, hair of a
a moment's silence,
are perfectly ready
first played my duo
e jiiiiilc, I heard her
ind my chair. The
eeii Dowager a little
exclaim in Spanish,
j)iec(! was over, tlio
said to me; 'Very
The King reciuested
reoU' air, that you in
•lid the King; " it is
d tlio Uueeu and her
mother appeared fo he charmed with it. Tlie King asked mo for nnnther
ol my juoces. 1 j.layed the 'Daiise (Ksianiqii.',' which i.nuliiced as llat-
tering an cllect as its predecessors. The Queen came to nie, and aillre^sed
luo a coiiipliiiient conceived in the most givuious teiiiis ; she then asked
me for another performance. 1 played tlie ' Moissonnense.' The Kin"
said: "That is good music, Monsiei-v (iottschalk; that is poetry itself!
It will not bo appreciated in ^pain ; the only pianists we admire Ii.to
are th(jse wlio iierforni acrobatic teats on their instrument."
A conversation of half an hour followed, when the (ineeii said soniethinK,
that 1 did not hear, to the King. He tunii'd to me and t(j|d me that her
Majesty insisted on hearing tho jiiece I liad dedicated to her, the ' Ham-
boula,' .another beautiful old Creole air, " VVe are so much pleased with
it," said tho King, "that I fre(|uentlv eitlier jilav it mvself, or have it
I.layeil for me." I begged th.Mr MaJesti.'S to have" a little indulgence for
mo, in case I did not jile.-ise them so well in this as in o! her pieces ; for I
liad not playeil it for a long time. "Say yon so!" replied the King,
laughing ; " thi-n yon must play it for us, tVir I wish ,iow to see in what
manner you will he able to play badly. ' 1 jijaved the ' liamboula,' and
the King and Uiieeii ai)peare(l to be nineh astonished at it.
Queen Christina walked uji and down the room, hnmming the air ami
exclaiming, now and then, "How beautiful 1" The (iueeii paid me an-
other very fiattering coinpliinent, and the King chatt.ul with me for another
halt Innir. Qneeii Christina said to him, "Sir. this evening's entertain-
ment should strengthen your taste for the piano." "All, M dame,"
replied tho King, " iny piano will remain closed all dav to-i ■ : ' w ;' I
shall not h.avo the courage to touch it for some timo vet, I fear. 1 then
.advanci'd to her Majesty and returned mv thanks fo'r the verv llatterin"
manner in which I h.ad been received. " It is I, sir," said the Qii i"
graciously, "who should thank you for tho charming suln',; wo have
passed." It being then time to retire, the King acconii)anied us to tho
door of the saloon .and romaineil there, watching our departure, until wo
had passed tho third or fourth saloon, waving his hand to mo and smiling
pleasantly. This is considered to be the most jKilito coinpliini'iit the King
can jiay to a visitor; but it is rather troublesome, as it obliges one to
retire backwards.
Yesterday evening I wont to tho Queen Dowager's ball. I had tho
honour of dancing several polkas before her Majesty with tho vonng and
charming Countess of Casa Valencia, tho daught.^r of one of her Majesty's
grooms of tho Cliambor. Tho Queen and the Que(«n Dowager were seated
on adivan or throno ; tho King occupied ,an aiin-chair to thoQin-.'n's left ;
Ins father, sisters, and brother wore seated to the right of tho tiiioon
Dowager. Around this royal group was an immense circle of lords and
ladies of tho (^oiirt, all standing. Tho King rose and walked slowh
around tho groat saloon, .addressing a smile to one, a kind remark to an-
other. On porcoivingme, ho advanced immediately towards mo, and after
making a few courteous inquiries as to my healtli after tho fatigues of the
■previous night, repeated the compliments" ho was then pleased to .address
me. All eyes were lixeil ujion me, aii.l my triumph— a legitimate one-
over those who had before treated me so coldly, was complete.
Tho Queen Dow.agor's chief jihysicMan came up to me, and saiil : " Per-
mit mo, sir, to be .among the first to felicitate! yon upon your signal success
last evening. Her M.ajesty, tho Queen Dowager, told mo that vou had
ploas.Hl her infinitely, and that she ])referrod yonr stvl.j of plaving ov(ni '
to that of Liszt, the pianist who had 'aeretoforo been her greatest favourite."
6
62
niOGRAPIIICAL SKETCH.
After Ills roooption bv tlio (iiioon,who Bubsoqncatly con-
fcriT.1 unoii liiiu the onk-r ol' IwiIk'Hii the Ciitholic, the
Intiititiis, sistors to \\w K'uuj^, also It-toa him; thoy con-
tinually jvcrivo.l him in tlu'lr aj.artmonts, and the wholo
CcMirt followed the fashion which royalty had set, so tluit
he waH in trnth the ' lion' of the nobility of Spam.
Hitherto the Conrt luul monopolized him, bnt tiie peojjlo
of Madrid now demanded to hear him. Accord niirly, bo
irave three concerts at the Tcatro del Circe, winch were
attended by vast crowds, whose enthnsiasm, bravos, ami
plaudits proclaimed him the first pnunst ot the atre. At
the first of these concerts six of his pieces were encored;
lie was called before the audience Beventeen tunes, and the
last time a crown of gold was thrown to him. , ,, ,,
After remaining some time at >[adrid he visited \ alU-
dolid, the first city of Old Castillo. 11 is reception there is
thus described by Mr. Mario Eseiulior in 'La France Mum-
cale,' of Paris, of February 1, lBo-2.
GOTTSCIIALK AT VALLADOLID.
Aftor Ins triumph at Maarid, Oott.chalk IjaH g.v„e ''^VfJ'^!:;;,!;;;::;;'^:;;
tal of OM Castillo. Uar,lly had h- arnve.l than the ""f' " j'^'^,' . ^^ \\l
was mi..,l with tlie nu.st ,UstinKUish..l aiuatours of tl.. ;' y- , . ^^ ^f" \'^' ,f
of Valhuloli.l, tli. M..nt,»-nior of Spain, s.nt t.. Inn. V' ' t V. lerno
thoir co„.raa;.s to felicitate and olVer their services to InM. K ; '•;_
L-eneral of OUl Castille went hin.self to pay hnn a visit ""'^1 l''V J ': . . ,"3
nilieent e.,uipa,'e at his disposal. Two .lays alter his arm 1 ^ "J^"' ;^^^^^^,^j
of the city fiave hiiu a serenade, and the jjovernor "" f' \ ! ^^^ ,^ "
dinner at which all the authorities were present. 1 he huMuiKi o i 1 .
ill" It; was n'sent. H. H. H. did him the honour of sending tor des e
a c^^ki^ail'l l.y her royal haii.ls. J''"' "-^ ''"^ ^^ ::t.:H: ^ n'
the i.ilice of tin. Inf.mta, sister of the KiliR, who wished o le.ir inui, ni i
i£ru :!m-hhn the liveliest felicitations, '^'f -''i'^; jl'.^rtii Z
what to attribute th..se marks of /.eal and respect o, of « In - ;'^ t' «
object, when he learned, some one writes us, that ^ ' '^ ^ *• , ' , '„t^. ,
beila had written to the authorities o all Castille that f ' ^ , \ .'^^j;;'
his journey the celebrated pianist should be ':''^'«;^^''\Vv .1 U-U 1 a. d
dist nctioi,: He has given three concerts in six .ays ^^ ^ • ' ' ' 'j ',
th.. cr..wd has not eease.l to follow him. The h.nl t..ok l';^^ "^^ ^, \' ;
atre, an.l his triumph was signali.e.l hy '"'^V'''^^'^^r^'"r,.': ^ -^ ,^ 'Ve s^ 1, ■ '
cau be imaglncl. His • Carnaval de V.-nise and his la ta-M. J- • .-.b m
have particularly ..xcited transports ot enthusiasm. 1 1'"'^" ; ;" ./'..VA-e
8un.d l.v th..se who have heanl them, two .lazzlniK compoMthms o Yrve
an rS^mdi y. (f..ttschalk was to leave iimnediately '»'• l^'"'^--; ''J; ' ^,
w s exmc ed as at Valladolid. The second of March he wdl '•'';''"
Zlrhl^ and ..n the 40. 1.^ is to be present at a Court ball, lor >^ huh the
Uueen has seut him a diruot invitation.
cqncatly con-
Ciitholic-, tho
ni; tlioy con-
11(1 the wiiolo
(I set, HO that
imiii.
)Ut the yieoplo
'conlitiirly, he
', wh'uii were
I, hnivoH, and
the age. At
iViTC eiK'ored ;
times, and tho
I.
visited Valla-
ei>ti(>!i there is
I France Musi-
aU.Kloliil, thfi'api-
1 wlRTl^lH'lllifl'ltt'l'
:ity. Tln'Stmli'lits
('imtiitioii of six i>f
1.1. Till- frovfiiior-
iliid 1>1:UM' his iimt;-
rival till' imisii'iiuis
Icri'd liiin !i graiicl
lio hiisbaiul of tin)
sfiiiliii',' for (li'SSiTt
:i(! w.'is n-i'civi'd at
■d to hear liiiii, and
lialk ilid not know
if which ho was tlio
xci!llent Uucfii Isa-
shi' dfsiri'd that on
1 with till' jiifatf.st
i at VaUadolid, and
Ilk lih-ici' at tlie the-
ihovfaiiytlunt: tliat
tiisiaon ■.liTiisahMu*
'hesi' arc, wo arc as-
mpositioiis of verve
for Uurt;os,wlicrc ho
h he will return to
ball, for which th«
SISGULA hOXOUR.
63
ve^^ singiilar and .listui.ruislied h,„io„r to he o» er t?, .,n
artist aii.l eonii.o.Kor. I^he Coimt ,1,. i>;,., /• Vi I
|w (■hami.er ,„' ji. M. i^ahH^; ;;;!a'^„ V ^i ^ ■ :,';',;!,i'
Kc.ym.ait, wrolo hiiii tiju li>ll„ivi,iLr litlor— J^'"iil»w
Mr. OuTTHCIIALK :
as a mark of „.y j, .,' st'c i ai," h •''"" •■'■■'.^- ''""'"•" "four cavalry
.1.1..,:.'.. ^i2^:^':,'z:^sz::;r:;':^-^,^f;r'^7'^'"-
fri ■••dsjji; " "v°n' lo \(iii wiij, (III. „,||..j s,,„.,,ro
Vour very lumihlc and
Very ohedjent servant.
letr!:'; '"^'''^^ "^^^""^ *'''' ft>lIowing note at the loot of tho
^nu'c'oi;i!i'Tf/'%^'''''"'''''' "r"""'"" "^ »''« Chamber of H. M. Isabella.
A short time after, wliilo prepari-irr to visit Bnr-os, lio
met witli an adventure whieh ohliir,..! l.im to iK.stnom. J.is
\<^.viiir(". Ihis a, venture, as related hy C;ottschalk to ],is
annly, was as lollows. J.eaviii,<r tho Co.irt in one of tlie
nnn. '^''^'^^''^ ^"^^'^V^^v^} hy his secretary, he heanl his
lanu calie., and stopiung the eoaeh he found he ],ad heon
al e.l hy (he pianist of the Court, who eanie running ,„,.
Oo tse ui Ik <.pene<l tho eoaeli (U,or, wlien the luanist,s;.in-
th. t Go sehalk innne.liately fainted, and was taken to Jus
Hotel. Ui, examination it was f)und that his little tiu-^.,
was very much injured, and the suri^eons leared they would
an-e to am pulsate it. To this Gottsc-halk would not eon-
Hiit, as It would i.revent him from ever j^lavin-^ ao'tij,, Ife
was lunety-oue days ii, ixroveriuir. What wa.C very re-
markable instead of injuring, it absolutely henelitcd his
hnger which became na.ro powerful than over, an«l eii-
i . fo, 'n * ''"''i-"'^''' ^•^'r^"i'\J'''««'K^'^ ^vith mo,v Cclat than
iJttoi e. 1 ho motive assigned for this groat outrai^e was the
64
liincnAPiiK^L sKKTni.
,„,•„,. |„ys,.„t,, t.. II. I . ,'•',,„.,, „„.,„•„„,, IV,-
r fl... U imf who S loWl'tl llllll III* fiii.i>» •
t;r;';'',;i:.:'':i ■ii'-i.-^ '--"«""
,,, ;;, ,""'n , a; . ':l.; Ar.is.i.,m' ^i.s.mii-i I;-'- '■■7,™ .;^-
til ;••„,.' ..„ bin, tl,.> tillo „r l...nun,r.v ."""'1;>' : ",-';,
toiin-ii 111,- (.(.iici'i't fivi'ii at tlio UMiK)
luorniiig uftiT t he li I'st i,cTlbnuai»cc.
t. llll'll null «i'lii>"i ■• — •- • ,. ,
As tllO l.lSt liotl'!*"' ll"' Ml t,l 111 . .".'r, _ .
■;„,,., ,,i...i»«. A. .1.. 1.... .;;;-;;; '^^i'^Z^.S^ rii ., ..»
13 Juin, IbO'i."
A, ho Uft. .1.0 .l,c»tro, «/rn,v,l acoo,n,»..|o.l 1,;,n to 1.H
until tilico o'ol<.,;k ill the uioiliiug
T
THE swoiti) t.-r }f'>\T/:s.
(!.')
o(Ti[.siO(l.niul
liiilk for I'vcr
ilu- li(iiii>ur of
..-.'pllil, sistiT
[itti'iitioii, iVi'-
)U'. Uiif (lay
i,lly |HVSt't\tfll
Alter lif l>:;'l
eiiti'd him ii»
itfil hnii two
l.y lirilliiiiits.
.U'\viis that it
■ ITIllH'St of tllO
I his rt'tnrii l>y
iiIkt. His ro-
at tlic 'l't''atro
first time ' Fa*
an<l wliifli lio
ivci'ivfil. 'I'lic
.f Matlri'l, the
iiui l>v tli<> c'liiiiont
til,' t.'illi of tin' city
riiil of liis niilfs-do-
tlirougli till! riwiin,
. \vli( re (iottsclialk
(>, (tciimiiiiUiii'il liy
tliiit all till' i.fopln
,,,11, .(I ti> ri'iH'.it till)
ilili' to ri'slr.iin liis
1 till' rliinax of tin;
ra;;ossi> dii'il away,
,.il with ril)l">i>'<. "II
rill, ii sou contort du
niod liim to \\\ri
iriiiients, that of
,hhI heiK'atli hi^^
a;* coiniic'lli-'il to
scene eoutiDned
Tlii'iidniinifioii which he iii.<|,ii'( il aiiioiintt <! iilnio-t t..
faiialii'i<lll. AfltT till' SCiM.li.l rolird't li,' lirii\ii| I';, ,111 t|„.
• •(•Irliialcd 'I'onvadoiMl'iill-liolit.T), |)<.ii ,ln,-,' K.'iIi.ikIm. tin,
follow iiio' Ifiici' acioiii[iaiiied l»y a iiiau'iiitin nt -.wurd : -
Mv lii'vu M. (ioTTsi iiM.K : I .■stiTiii viiy hiylilv 111,' invilation v,,ii r^oiit
'"" l"i-V"iii-i I'lt. Il alVof,|,.,| iii,.,.,ii ,,|,|,.,itmiitv to lii'.'iraii ai'tiHl i.io.
claiiiM'il liy all Ihr iiitrllly.'iit aiiiali'iirs of tl,,. two «oi! I.s, as on,, of tlio
v,.|y }•>■>{ |,iaiilst, ol tl„. litiio. Wi>liiii;; to pivsiiit y,,ii a la^liii- >,„iv,i,ir
ot my a,liiiirali.,ii, 1 juay y,,u t,>a,', ,|>t oi f llo,'.«,,r,|s «ii|", m 1,1,1, |
liavr inairitaiii,,,! tli,. Spaiii-li Toi,„. In tli.. liiul, nii,l ^'|,,iioi,H i„,Mti.,n to
wliMh It was r,ij>,.,| l,y tl„. ,„,i,.li n-ivlt,..l Kiari,is,,. .M,,iit,.s |i„im wli,,iii
tins su„i-<l ,l,'s,vn,I.Mlt,.iii,'. Iii,..\,liaiii,'i'l ask, as ,i |,i f of v,„ii' . •*!,■,. i,i
an aiito^rripli Ir your lian,l, wliMi I shall r,-anl us ,,ii,.of tl„. st
|,iv,i,,i,ssonv..niisofniy lif,.. .|„^,, i!,;„„.v„„.
At the close of till' second concert, he wax airaiii escMpted
to liis hotel, and the _vnmio-,.i- inciiiliers of thc"iiiost dlMin-
,i;-iiished faniiliesof .Nladriij yave him a iiTaiid haiHiiiet a^
a mark of their ailiiiiration and <'steeiii.
Afti-r ieaviiiiT .Madrid he visitc(| other <'itics <,f S|,aiii.
At Cordova, the archliisho|n;ave him a splciKlid diiiiiiraini
l»resciit.d him with a copy of his • Pastoral I'oenis.' 'I'he
canons inyiu.d him to inspecf the treasures of the Secret
Liltrary of the Cathedral ; and lie was invited to one of the
nieetiiio-sof th,, authorities of the citv, to lu' ofliciallv inv-
seiitcd with their coiioratiilations.
At no time was (Jottschalk ever carried awav hv the
trihiites awanled him. hut always received them u ith that
modest simi-licily which so uivatlv characterized him.
Iheirreater part of the money which he made he distri-
hiited for eharitahle |iiir|ioses.' In Madrid, he o-ave 1.'),(MI(I
reals towards ihe constriictioii of a ]io>|,itiil.
At ,^an laicar, lie met the Dnke dc .Moiit|iensicr. A
warm friendshiii sprnnt; np hetweeii them. IJcfoiv his de-
parture lie was invited tooneof the Duke's private siijipers,
where eticjUette was laid aside for cordial and familiar en-
joyment. The Dnke and Onchess made him maoniticcnt
presi'iits.
Owiiiir to the accident h" met with, his dei.artnre for
Aineriea was (U'layed heyonvl the ]ieriod aii'reed upon with
his father, who was anxiously awaitino- his coniino-. He,
therefore, Avas I'hliged to leave Spain, vvhieh he d'iil verv'
a*
uo
II lot; II A I lllVA L SKE nil.
ivlnrtnntlv, for Tuns ii. onU-v to h.v hU inot Wr .m-l /ist..i>|
;;;::l';;',;';;;,:;'J,i ■;,; ' r,;,.l'i li.' ■ unn^,,, .a naw, ,■„>■ n^w
Yolk.
(MlAlTKll Vlll.
On n.o KHli ..!■ .la.nn.rv, 1h:.:'., ()..ttsrl,alk urrivo<l i..
NW York, wlHT. h. foun.l his fatl.;;.' aNvaun.t; lum.
SI ,u-tlv an.; In. amval Nl^ nanuun ..a Iva u,,,m uuu :^^^^^^
wi,lH.A to n.ak. an arnm-nucMt with Imn .- a .....
n th.o,...l. tl... r,ut...l States, HMuilar (.. f at u "-1' ''^
, a.U. with .l.-n,.y l/.n.l. rntortunat..lv h.s tath.-r
;: al;v..li.rih..wn.an,an.ltl.oM,l.tUYU.l.l|-^^^^^^
,■,,,.. his s<.n"s .li-nitv t.> a.'.vpt his ..tier; aial at., i •i.u.ui-
;' short timciu New Y..rk, th..- !.■ t t..r N.'W (..■...,.
llis lirst oon.rrt in New Y..rk t..ok p la.x. ';';-'';
num. •itt'i.'hr.l t.. Xihlo's Thi'at.v, on th.' Uth ..I K'hn.aiN,
S T In. was ,.n.v.U..l I.y the tashi.>n=,hU. s.-^i.t^
,rX w Yo.-k, who nmnill-stcl the greatest .leh.h a j-
j,,,,'..rn.an.'o, nn.l pie.v aft..' i-.e..' was .^^';;;''; ' \' ';/ ^,^
wMi-inest ai.plauso. Nos.unier was the eon.vrt oNei than lie
l^^^X^dio^y. an..the.-. Tla' s.eon.l t.>ok ^hwe six
aays^al>...-u.u-.Kin the theatre itsolt; wlneh was er..N^.le.l
to (tvertlowiiiL!;. , . ,. , i ..t- i'i,',l.,ili>l.
On their way to New Orleans they st.-pin 1 J '• *
i.hiM wlR.re(Jotts.'halkirave his first e.meert m that . itN .
\ J iu V hv ns the .liary of M.". .Tohn.B..nvier IVters.-.., a
voun. amateur a.ul e....,.,.. , '':/ '- I'^'rwhl h i^ hl^
Vi.tli.i s„l.sc..,.iently to that t, -.-ihle '^{r^r.' f o V?o .f
,,l,,i„„, ;,f „K..r,.'ine--ei.k.,.^.v. ^^'r h l?..l K..,
A reh 1 1«."^;'>, lu" writ.'s tliat he vent to Ootts.;halk > -n-
;:;-t at Ihe Musical Fund Hall on the ovoning ot that
tlay :—
A7;ir oA'/./;.i.vA
m
T and histrir.
' rc'iimiiK'il ill
(■*• li_V 11 ^lUllll
•(.IIiI'kT, 1>|')-,
viv, for New
Ik iirrivt'd ii.
waiiiiiii liiiii.
I|i(l|| llllM, illlll
for ii tmisical
hat whicli 111'
Ills tiithrr liad
nil) lif li»ikt'il
;()illil (liTojiilto
1 afiir ri'iiiain-
Ni'W Orleans,
•c at till' liall-
li dl' Ki'hruary,
lonaltlo soc'u'ty
(Iclisi'lit at livs
.rtfil with tliu
rt oviT than ho
toiik |ila<'o six
h was iTdwded
L'd at, I'hiladid-
■rt in that city.
vicr IVtorson, a
lisc, who ffU a
c, which is the
cr the date of
l()ttschalk"s con-
Livoninii' of that
Wlh'ii wi' n>A tt) III,, li.ill, \vi. fniiii,! tli.it it \vi\* /I Jam, iiiit\\ ItlMtainU
iiiu' it \wis a laiiiy nielli. At cl^'lit ..nliMk th.. rm it (•.riniiiiiii .■(!,
ii(itt»*iliiill< liiiiih'lf tlii'ii Iliad.' hi-i a|i|M'araiii'i' aiiiiii tri'iiu'ii'loiis ap-
liluiiKi'. ^ 111' Ik vc'IV .viimi;; lciiikiii(;, (|u,.s nut scriii ici lie (iv.t t\\ i'IiI.v-Hvk
vi'ai'H cif a;.'!', Iiaii<l..^niiii', uml, to irnun Hi,. « Imli., Is m(i easy ami iiiiat-
I'Tti'd ill his iiiamii'i' that ii pcrhnii niiijil ii.it (ail to Im> |.|fii»i'..| «iih him
M a iii/iil. As a |il,iyi.|' hi' Mirpas.Hi.s ..vni .laill. ami his ix.'riili.iii is
fistiiiiii.liii;,'. Ill' |il.'iys, tiMi, Willi s.iiMiiih last.' ami ix|)ri.ssii.ii tjiat any
|)('rsoii whn has any liTliii;,' cuiilil imt lu'l|) luil hi' iilrasi'il.
^ It al^i|i('ars, IVdim ( iDftschalk's noti's, that the cniiccrts iii
N'l'W ^ oi'k did not pay cxiiciiscs,
Hii tiii'ir a.-'-iMil ill New OrUans liis fcIlow-citizcns re-
ceived him with 'I'li arms, it seemi'd to him like retiirii-
iiiii' to liis liimily and liome. |';\-ery door was tliiown opm
to him. Ahidam I'., the cliarminu' |iianist, who had lurii
aniojiu' tlieearrn'st tojirediet what he would he, wlien. onJv
ti'ii yi'iii's of iiii'e, he pjayed at one of her di'liu'htl'iil xiirees,
was amoiiii' tlie first to welcome him, and open her .w/Zo// to
him. His old nrofcssor, Leti'llii'r, was ids >hadow. Tho
l''i't'emasons of .New ( )rleans ^'a\•o him a dinner, at whicji
he was coiiii'i'atiilatcd hy an address in poi'try, written for
the occasion. Coiiccrt sncceeded concert withoiit interi'ii|i-
tioii; at one of tlicm three hinidred lioiii|iiets were tiirown
to him, and, to his c'l'cat siir|irise, almost vvwy one jiad a
fiiiii' attached to it. His sojoiu'n in his nati\-e'city was all
siinsliiiu', hut, notwithstimdint!; his y-reat desire to remain
tiiere, he felt the necessity of leavinu'. He then uaM' a
tiiiywell coiici'i-t, and it was at this concert that hi> fellow-
citizens, with that ^eiu'rosity and delicacy which charac-
terize them, jiresenti'd him "wifli a s|ilen(Iid n-,,|,l nieilal,
which I'ontained nine hinnlrcd dollars' worih of i.',,j,|.
<_iottschalk lovi'd this medal as a tJivoiirite child loves the
first jewel u'iven him hy his mother. He wrote to his
mother and sisters in l'a"ris: '•! should so much love voii
to see it, hut 1 feel myself inci,|iahle of |iartiiiu- with it."
'I'lie medal wasof j aire, u'old, of a circular form, and massive.
It had upon one side an eU'irantly executed Ju'ad and hust
I-;' (Jottschalk eiicircleil in a wreath of laurels, and upon
the reverse, "A L. M. (iuTTsciiAi.K, ses C'oinpatriotcs de la
:>'i.;!velle Orleans, 11 Mai, hSo:',/'
After remainiiiii- a short time in Xcw Orleans, he ci-ossed •
over to C."nl-a. liua he met with a warm reception. In-
Qg nioGRA nut AL Ski: 'r< if.
vito.l to tlio i^alacr l.v tlio Cai-taiii (u'luTal. hv foviid that
l,i< 11.1, u' had iMH..r.lc".l liiiu. Ai\vv -ivin,ii- srvrnil roiHrrts
he- ivtunK.l a-aiu to Xcw York. In (.K-tohcr, IS.,4 a short
tiuiu iK'tbiv u-iviiiir a cou.rrt in F.ostou, he iv.vived a M<'-
jvnnaannonnrini^This tatlicTS -Wh lie rcsovo. to ^lav
rather than .lisipi-ohit the i-nhhe; hut as the taet had
he<-onie known, a -h.on. was east „ver the andienee who
U-reatlv svnn.athized with hinu and t.-r the most part kept
^ih.nee, ahhouol,. as it was afterward said, - the master-
spirit slione out IVir more hri-htly than l)eh.re. At the
elose of the eoneert, he immediately left tor Xew Orleans.
After the hurial of his father, an exarumatum ot tlK estate
proved it to he insolvent, lie at onee resolved to pay his
father's dehts, and his earliest earnin-s were devoted to
this purpose, whieh was in time aeeomplished. A more
nohle aet of tilial devotion is seldom .met with.
In 1S.>-) he puldished 'The Last lh.po,"Lo C han du
8oldat,' ' La ^larehc de Xuit,' ' La .lota Arrau'onesa / deru-
salem,' ' Les Souvenirs d'Andalousie,' ' La ^ alse 1 oeti.pio,
^ From IS-),') to 185G he iravc no less than eighty eoneerts
in New York, the last of whieh was as hriUiant as tlie
'nil the 2d of Xovomher, IS.-.O, his mother was sc^ized
Avith ap..plexv, and fell dead. This was a terrihle hh.w t.>
him, for he i.lolized his mother, and was never tired ot
speakino- „f lier heauty, wit, sxrace, and ae.'omplishments.
(lottsehalk alwir>-s insisted, when hi Paris, that his mntlier
should attend his eoneert^ that lie might have the heneht
of her eritieisms, whh'h were always ,iust. At such times
he would make his hrothers and sisters sit in the tront
row- hut the mother would retire into some ohseure cor-
ner as she could never listen to her son's p aymg without
slK'ddino- tears. She possessed a. wonderful memory, and
had heeii tauu'lit hy her uncle, Count Casimir Moreau de
rislet.a ii-ifted and most h-arned lawyer ot New Orleans, to
recite pieces from the French tragedians. _
In 18:.d he au-aiii returned to the Antdles, in company
Avith A.lernia Fatti. then only 14 years of a,<xe._ He visited
with her Havana, Santiag.> .le Cuha, Forto Frine.pe, I or o
Rieo etc. lie composed ' Cohuuhiu,' ' La Marehe bolen-
' fdi'iid tluit
ral conci'ils,
sr)4, 11 sluirt
•ivrd a tt'U'-
ilvoil to iiliiy
ho i'act liiiil
uru'iu-o. wlio
iSt \<-AVt kl'lit
• the niastcr-
•('." At tho
s'l'W Orleans,
of tlK estate
.'d to i>ay his
> devoted to
'd. A more
1.
Le Chant dn
mesa,' '.leru-
l>u I'oetimie,'
nhtv eoiieerts
illiaiit as the
:'r was si'i/.ed
■rihle Mow to
lever tired of
iiiii)lishiiK'nts.
at his iiiother
vc tlie beuetit
At such times
; in the trout
» obscure cor-
\\\w^ without
memory, and
ir ^hireau do
L'W Orleans, to
■s, in cnm]iany
i>. lie visited
'rinci|ie, I'orto
Marehe iSoleu-
<i/rr To //OSJ'JTALS.
C>9
nele, ' Les V;nx Creoles,' 'La Chute .Ics FeiiilK.s/ ■ La
(.itanella, 'Ainnul a Sovilie,' etc JVlin- the neeessily
. res , he retuv. to a friend's j.lantation at Alatoui.a.
lie e he composed 'Lel'antonic de JJonhenr," I'uh.nia,'
and 'J'astorella e Cavaiiliere.'
Au-ainwe find him'ar Havana, where he was idolized
ilere Jie organized a great festival, in winch 8(10 mu>i<ians
pertonued under his direction his heantiful svnmhnnv .,f
J.a .N.nt des Iropuiucs,' whi.-h ^^^,v.■ received with Vaii-
turous aiiplause. '
While here, learning that Queen Tsahella l,a<l iounded
t-'ur imspitals. he remitted to Spain l.-),(IOO waU This
gave rve to the lollowing correspondi^nce, of which we -ivo
ii taiiislatioii.
OOVEKXMKNT OV TlfF Tlioviv, k OK VaI.I..Mm,I.,i,.
Mr Mi.NisTF,,: Tl,o fl„.vali,.i- L„„is M.-ivan (n,!ts.l,allv ,!,■ \Uu<lO a
IMa.nst c...,. .,-,.t,.,l i„ I.;u,„,„, l.,vi„,^ ,va,l i„ tl,. • .M„„i...,n. ,. H. ' 'I'.at
l''^nul,Uou ot i,m,. h„s,,i,Mls, on. „f wUicl. will l,,.,,- , ,',. a '. .al f
t - nins .s,.,-..,,,. iMtanta, a.ul ,l,.sirin,t: tos,.,..m,l a ,,roj,.,., as prais. v ,• - s
.■leyat,.,l, has i>la,-,.,l at th.. ,lisj,„Mti„n of ny ...v.'-ni.nt til, ■ su.aoni^^O
h.,l\V^!v /I'T" l"'"'"'-""" '•'"■tlu. arts has ,.v..,-sl,own its-U'so ,,,liu'!,t.,.,vL
nas (I, i-n,., to (hrorat.- inaiiy pio,„iii,.nt artists wlio liav,- tints l„.,.ii ahl,'
M • t 11 '''','■ "'■'* l;''''i':sts, ,r not th.. first to-,lav in VW.rnJ,
M . tM.ha k lias l„.s„l,.s, an ..l,.^at...l l„.art an,l an ..lii.ht.Mn.,! rhari v
1, s..,.s «n,>t h,. p!an.s at this tnn,. at th,. .lispositi.m of th.. hospital l.is
alms aiv nii.n,.rons an,l c.nisi.h.rahl,.. I h,.j. th,.n to piopos,. to Vo „• .\., .
.;n,..v o suhnut tor th,.a,,prol,ation of If,.,- Mairstv/a ,,.,.,.,.,. w,: 1 a, .s
li'.u ( h,.val„.r ot th,. (h-,l,.r of Nohiliu- of Charts HI. or of Saitt Jul
(.0,1 i,rot,.,.t \onr Kx,.,.Il,.n,..v for luii-th of years.
Vai.i.auolu), 2IJ April, l>(i4.
His Kxo,.ll,Mi,.y J. DcKXA. (iov,.rnor, to His E.N-,^,.lI,.nfy
th,. Mmist-.r ,if i-tate, Mar<iuis de MiLA|.i,,.iii.:,<.
The title of ^^d.tillero (Chevalier) of the roval and di.tin-
piished order of Charles II F. wtis bestowed on < Jt.tt^chiilk
by (^tieen Isabella, and a dipl.^ma of the said institution
and title beiirmo- date the ninth dav of S,.i,tember 1,S(J4
w:ts lorwarded to hii.i in Xew V,.rk, together with liu'
order set with diamonds.
After ail id)sen.'e ofnetirly six years, he received tin offer
trom .Max Strakos.-h to mtike a tour of the United States
which he acceiited, and once more he is found in Xew York''
70
BIOGRAPIUOA L SKETCH.
wliore bis first coiieort under the ejipii^omcut \vns givon
(.11 tho lltli of Febmury, 1802. L'mlor tbi^ eiigiiiiviiiuiU,
bo tnivLTSL'd tbo No.w EiiiilaiiKl, ISliddlc, and \\_estorn
Btatcr*, and Canada; from tb(> Atlantio to tbo l/acitic, and
a< far rtoutli as N(.rfolk, Viri^inia. It was tlio period of tlie
civil war, and be could not ^'o furtber soutb. lie gave
more tban 1100 concerts in tluve years. At Saratoga, be
sravo a concert for tbo benetit of tbo aoldier.s and duruig
Lis iirogress very many for tbo poor. ^. , . -.o^o
Wbi'lo in Xew York, after bis return from Cuba nilShii.
bis brotber Kdward, tben residing in I'aris, was taken ill,
and appeared to bo iroinir rapidly mto a declnio. lie was
a yonn'-- man of rcmarkai)le u^enius, not only for music, but
for drawing and lauiiniages; bnt, unfortunately, of no appli-
cation, and of so retiring a disposition tbat be was never
willin--, wbcn bo assisted b/us brotber at public concerts,
tbat bis name sbonld appear. His sistei-s, wbo bad re-
moved from Paris to London, bearing tbat bcAvas seriously
ill, sent for bim. On bis arrival, tliey were so alarmed
at bis appearance,
tbat tbev immediatelv wrote Gott-
scbalk tbat tbey would send l^dward to bim. Wbeii^ tbc
vessel in wbicb be bad taken passage readied Xcw ^ orK.
be was unable to leave Ids bertb. . Gottscbalk, Avbo ba<l
been awaitinii' bis arrival, bad bim taken immediately to
bis botcl, called in tbe Ijest i.bysicians, nnrscd bim witb tbo
gri'atest tenderness, Watcbed over bim as a motber Avould
ber sick ebild, and left notbing undone tbat migbt restore
bis bealtb. As soon as tbe weatber became warm— be bad
arrived in February— bo took bim to tbe seaside, and would
liimself carry bim to and from tbebcacb. At nigbt be liad
bis bed placed alongside of bis brotber's, wbose failmi:'
breatb did not permit bim to speak above a wbisper and
idacino- bis band in bis wonld tbus pass tbe mgbt. It, bow-
ever, was miavailing, tbougb bis life was prolonged until
tbe autumn. For tbree days before bis deatb, Gottscbalk
was constantly witb bim, and on tbe 2Ttb of September,
1SG3, be died in bis arms, tbe last rites ot tlie Catliolic
Gburcb baving been admhiistered to bim by Doctor Cum-
mins, of yew York. . n a ^^ k
In ISO,-), (bittsebalk left San Francisco for Sontb Ameriea.
lie bad long wisbed to visit it, and particularly Kio Janeiro.
VISITS SOUTH AMERICA.
71
; was givon
MigaiieiiR'Hi,
ul \\"estt'rn
I'ai'itic, and
)C'i'i(«l oi tlie
1. lie gave
Saratoga, lu-
ami (luring
ul)a in 18(12,
•ad taken ill,
lie. He was
Y music, but
, ofno appli-
le was never
ilie concerts,
vlio had re-
vas seriously
! so alarmed
wrote Gott-
Wlien the
I Xew Yori<,
Ik, who had
mediately to
him with the
lother would
iiight restori'
[irm — he had
le, and would
night he had
•hose tailing
whis|icr. and
i-ht. It,how-
donsred until
1, Goltseludk
t' September,
the Catholic
Doctor Cum-
Lxth America.
• Rio Janeiro.
But Ills mother was excecdino-h- averse to if, ns A\o had i
l.re>cntiinent that lie would dic'tlicre, and that she .jiould
never see liim again. During her life, he acvd.'d to her
request, hilt now she was dead he east aside what liethou<-ht
only a superstitious notion of Ids mother, an.I determined
to mdnlge his long-clierislied desire.
He reached Lima, and, in turn, other portions of SoiiHi
.America; everywhere successful, everywhere fete.l, everv-
wlierc lavishing Ins talents and inonev for the poor and
distressed Nbmtev.deoand Thienos Ayres had been visited
bv he cho era. He gave concerts ibr the German, the
liench and the Kngbsh hospitals-for the orphans from
thecholera and for the purposes of public edu,.Mt ion. Floral
emwns and gol.l me.lals met him everywhere, makii,.- his
lite a complete ovation. '"'
On_ the lOflj of May 18n0, Gotfschalk reached IJi,.
-laneiro ()„ Ins nrrival, he was invited to the pala.r. and
leceived from the Kmporor of Brazil, the Icarncl an.l ac-
eomphshed ^^om IVdro, an.l his ,|ueen an.l lamilv mark..,l
attenti..ns. On the .^)d ..f .Mine he was tak..,, ill, for tl,,.
first time, but perlornie.l on that evenintr. ( )n ihe 5th of
August he was so ill fV„m an atta.-k of\ell..w fever that
It was rum..iired lie was .lying. F..urteen davs after he had
s.) far re.-ove]-e<l as to he able to make short"'trij.s info tlie
country to recu].erate. ^
_Buring his convalescence he wrote a letter to one of his
triends, of which the following is a translation:—
Rio .Iankiko, August, 18(59.
It is . almost a pl.autom that writes to you. I havo boon very dan.',.r.
01
;:i;:v::i"t/,;:r;i;r ,^i;,r'' " -- " ™"" "•.-.' '-
Iliavoim.t with a n.c..ption hero such as has uovcv h.vn o(r,..v,l to nnv
n t,st ,n thjs ,.,.unt,-.v. Th,. six- cnuvrt. ^vhu■U I hav. al.va.i .' ',, ^l^ .
> 1 .•rowd..,! to su.h a ,h.,,reo that speculators sol,l h„x.s at tl.; io r at ^
<>n.uy arrival at I!i.i-a spl,.„,li.l city. ,vith the most marvolh-uslv l„.-,u-
:;;;!'" ";:!;x;'-iirs^;;'t!;:;™;,»-:-»;::;;;:-; -:
couvmod, M»„U„,s, 1„ ,],„ g,,,„ ,„„.,„l„„.|,uli ,„, „v„ ,„1„1„J! ,1,;. „„n'
72
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
Ili.'V liai
„„ !,;r,l;^lJ■;^^:n!;;;;:»f-:'>;"=.'p■"V'l■ 't^^
" ";„ ; W.- skin,.,..;.l .iv.-i- ...ail,'- «ili,i" 1", "i"' ' »«' '"'"^ ''■' ','" > ,
hail the ilclit-ai-y to
At all "^>' 1"-'T:'" W,M,l'^v ^'i^in^-thatl.isina^.o^asumvo.tl.yofuu..
r.'lniin tiom asking in.' In I'l.iy, >a.s uy tu.h lu i . . ,,.,
(Etude). Th.l'n..c..ssl.u,H.nal .;,,■ ^'f ' ^ !M I ^ ' ^ ,„s askod lor
had a «ucoc.ss of tear., and; 1 .^' "";•„'„, „, i o-.ln..k in th.
V tcriiiinati'd at 4 o'clnck in tlm
mviT^illl,' till' wlinlo
Mtios Creol.is,' tor four hands. Th
tinu- fanal.arly wth tli.u- guests ""/^'-f^f^^^
details on the Mornu;ns, ^^as en.aUed sa Cv m ^,^.,^-,,„,„„i ,
iust read Dixou-s ' iNew An.onea. ^V en I '^" .;\,",„„„. ^i,,., „,, ,„y
he atmosphere o: the drawing-room nd I ^'' "^^ ' ' ^- ' ,.,.^.,,, ,,„,„. „n.
in ,he evening a earriage rolh'd u,, to "'^ -j^-';'!,;.!^ ", .•"■'" '''■'''^
Majesties was introduced into my r;-"'; Jl« " '" , ' : t al in.mund, when
,ue\mlMd.alfoftheKnMHMorandK>nl.ress Mtn
iiig mo away from the pomps and vanities of Ihi. >vo.ld. It pi
(//.-A'jy.iA'.i' ASD J-n/:j::.UASoys.
13
1,1 lUO tliat till'
was f'iiisi};iHMl
ic Kiiiliri'ss anil
i- spdUi' (if tlii'ir
oiis with which
the Kmiircrts, 1
nail lioiiiloii' at
H'siili' hull, say-
id, in fact, con-
Uatcs, spii'ltnal-
s, manners ami
lick hy till' vcr-
taimncnts. lie
stands ])crfi'ctly
. Tin- Kniiicror
uiccrts. 1 hayo
iccn rcccivcil in
,' Kniipii'ss, who
s yuii urn aware,
tc'df twenty-two
jlU' never fort;els
(if myself at his
ilayed at (\uirt.
I the delicacy to
unworthy of nil',
ir the .soiVi'c. The
rsons hi'sides tho
■s. The Kniperor
nd my ' 'I'reiiiolo'
y ' Miirte,' which
fmliress aski'd for
I 4 ()■( hick ill tho
,ersin;j; the wholo
iicr to have soiiio
miiletely as 1 had
vas overheated hy
some time for my
Lay fever came on.
lu, tho iihysiciaiis
i of my condition,
iiKliure how 1 was.
Toward f^ o'clock
[ainherlain of their
lly to iiniuire after
ic'al moment, when
Id not help think-
ickiiess in a forei;.'n
1 the honest cham-
Id lacii)t;s ^'littere.l
I cloud with which
ICC of death hnrry-
ihl. It was philo-
sophical and — distressinj: in i>roiinrtion. ^„ friends, savo my f.iithfnl Fir-
iiiiii ; no family : no hived hand l.i clas|i mine and to make ine led in ono
last jiressiire that my life was still dear In snmc one. liiit 1 wax alisiird
and dismal.
The pliilharinonic societies and the musical cluhs have sent nii' diplimias
of honni'ary memlier>iiip. Tiie (iermans, who, in all my travels tlinm-li-
out .'^oiitli America, have always luriiied the incist solid' jiart of my ainli-
ences, thanks to their traditional love of music, have imt deserted mo
liere either. The (ieriuan t'hoi'al Society, althoiinh ( xcliisively compdsed
of amateurs, saun at my lirst three cinicerts. These (icrniaiis "have really
the monopoly of choral musii;. They sanj; tho ' Hunter's Chorus' from
' I)er Freischut/.' at my second ooiicert with a hrio aii.L fire that electriliiMl
the audience. Tliey are led hy an excellent musician, who is moreover ;l
distiiiL'uished and modest man— .Mr. Tijike. 1 inel him some twelve years
njro at yprinudeld.
'I lie Freemasons have invited nie t>i visit tlieir ' (Jrand Orient.' On
the (lay apiiointed for the reception, a (ieputatKin caiiK,- for me, and I was
introduced with all the ceremony of sohnui occasions. Tho discourse of
the Cirand Master hreatlmd a fervent lovi for American institutions. All
the Iodides of Rio were rejireseiited hy (leiuilations. In these countries
where the soul is as ardent as the clime, everythiiijr is new and picturesiiuo
to the stian>,'er whoohserves. Freemasonry exists hen? in all the fervour of
its palmiest days. Kjo 'i deputation mado its entrance with its banners.
The costumes Wi'w. sin^'ularly intenstin;,'. A lew lodges have iidopted th«
dress (if the Franciscans, bin it is sky-blue: others wear llowiii;^' white
draperies : others, .a^ain, .mi! elad in loiif; black mantles embroidered with
death's heads, iMid with ji tar^e hi ck hood, the ell'ect of which is jihan-
tasiiiaj;oric and conducivi to niirlitmare.
The clergy who direct the Imperial voile e of Alcantar.i have also -iveu
me a )iubli(.' receiition. The olid impils of luo college tbrnied on a liis'.; as I
arrived. Tho profesMirs and ''ithers came to receiv nv wit^ a b;,nd of
music. All the college m 't at ;iie hLiujui i. The presid,.nt addressed me
a discourse which was wed coreeived ft;. 1 well delivered, lie sjioke, aa
usual, of the 'great Hepi blic, for tho T'rltod Slates, ])articularlv since
the war, are the object of 1; • wlhusias'ii of all Eolith America, which is
])roU(l of tho Monroe doctr ■ •uid of the Americaiiism to which it has given
rise. Moreover, 1 believe it all these Hoaih Aiiierii an liepublics und.T-
stanil that, sooner or latei, the rni*(;d States will be the arbitei' of tii-ir
fate., and Brazil, although riilel by monarchical ii'stitutions, is, in point
of fact he most liberal of all these countries, and the most disp 'sed to
avail If of the imiiiilse wo have ri\c;i to civilization.
Hn Iter tlit; disci urse of the president I was expected to repiv, and
this \ • the hardest thing for me. 'idu know how aw kward 1 am for
eveiyt'iing outside of mm ic. Fortunitidy, I had taken a glass of cham-
pr.'-'iM (which I exeurate), and i" r'aitli, 1 tired my ships. Ii hose Spanish
for ic speech, as it is tlie Language which has most analogy with I'ortn-
gueso, and everyone here ni. h-rslands it. It ap|iears I did not aciiiiit
myself too badly, for some of the pajiers went such lengths as to .jieak or
MV .loiiuence I
Some of the papers have announced that I perished in the eartbcinake.
1 beg you to believe that this is not so. I have no more perished i! m I
have been married, which id auolLer piece of news the papers circulate
when tliey lack "copy." »
I
74
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
„,„l virgin lorosts. ''^^^--^'l ^'y^";: ';^, Hudin ' ^-11,1.; to c!..ar
wu.m1s ar.i so .U'liso that tho "'l''^' '[■^"^s-. '" = f,.,, „ tu,.,u wlu^never
th.Mu, have a.loi.t..a tho harbarou. phm o J " ' b ^ ^,. ,^ ^,„„„,i„ ,,„
thoy ^viHh to ....large the..- ,V''''l"' ^^ ,/^," ^ i„ „ Kt a. The elVeet i.
crowLed with lla,...s, ixmun.ln.g o.u f J '« > UH _o ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^
tUe;;^ila,.ce ot t^;;--:;-^ :,:-;,,; jSti-.^^: ^This,h..weve.,
clario,,et,a«uM.ot a.la ..,- nn^^^^
did i.ot vrevo.t their attacRii.^ . . .^^ naught the haniiome sei-
pho..y i,. a l^^v that wouhl have dl.edarul^^^t^^^^^^^^ . ^^^^^ ,^, ^
*n.ce of M. Ketis hii.vselt. I u.a. e f '^ l^/, ", ,\ ,, ,11 h=. ...ight, a llute
the satislaction of see.,,g a tromb n '^ '^'^^ ^^ ,^ „ ,„„ „,t,, .ho suc-
^:^ •^l;;,l:!neJ\he:r';:;::r: diligenrcides, a..d co...,leted the orche.tra
of the grand occasions of Valcuza.
On ScT.tcnilKn' 11 Gott.chalk n.crain returned to K;o, and
c^^^SZ concerts, unto.,g othe.. those on tbe j^h, 8^,
S^ll nth of October, at whuats,xeeni.=njvs^cn^^^
..ftcr Avhich he beijan his work tor the ^^'^Ji^''^' ,^ "^ f
'^^k'cnlean labours he gave three ^^^-^^p^^^l
Uth, and lBtlw>f XoW,er On he ^;^^;^^l,,^
IniSs'^T^l^- i^ad^lU bought np at doul.le
^t:; ^rvoved a great success. <?'^ tlte inonnng o^ he
or.th the iec-ond concert was f '^^'^''•tised to t. k pU e tne
loUowing evenhtg, at the usual price. ^ ^ ;^f^;^;^;^.
LAST COXCERT.
76
10 mouiitnliis "f
s hail made' iqi
iiLvrt, Tlif ilih-
lysiciaii kiiIimimI
lol'ty Miiiiiiitaiu!!
fiCll!'!', fill" tllCS(!
lossiblo to clfar
tUi'iii wlifiit'Vt'i-
»ik simiiuits aro
la. Tilt; flVcot U
t will not stiip at
(3 I'azciuht of liilii
, some inoraliziii};
i imitiitiiMico, and
the station. As
mi the top of iho
ly ailvent. They
("as arranged that
ly reci'ption. Hut
Let having escaped
u the carriage a
;. This, however,
itic eccentric syin-
, thi; harmonic sci-
halcony, and hi-l
1 h'sniiglit, aiiuto
<it haste, who suc-
leted tliu orchestra
icd to Rio, and
m the 5th, 8th,
nos ^VL'l•e used ;
;tival. Duniig
•ts,on the 12th,
1 of Xovouiher
id rod and titty
up at double
moruino; ot' the
) talvL- place the
le seats wore all
iiny boxes were
joeanie seriously
•ame, with ir<iu
\)\w. After the
took his place
to,' his tavourite
ineco.
seioiiH
Tlanlly liad lie roimiieiiced \\licii lu' irll uiiccn-
iu a swodii. fh' was at oiuv eomi'Ved to ids Ikhhc,
and (•(.iiiphuiied of liivat jiaiiis in In.s" ahdonieii. lie
was^ innnedlately attended by one of the best pliysieians
of IJio. Oil the -liX of December, at his re(iuest, a second
physi('ian was called in, but the remedies apiilied ])roved
miavailin.o;. On December 8th be was induced to liavo
hinisclf couveyud to Tijuca, a plateau sonic two or tliree
inilcs from liio. ]Ie sccnicd to improve. Uu llie 14th an
internal abscess broke, which afforded some relief; but he
had bec(»nic so weak that, on the morning of the 18th, he
yielded up his life.
CIL\rTKR IX.
GoTTsniALK died at 4 o'clock on the morniii<r of the 18th
of Decendter, 18()!t, and tlie fnllowiiisj notice of liis deatli
ajipea -ed in the Jornal da Tarde of the same date.
The frreat artist is dead ! At 4 o'clock this morning, after prnlnngcd
snflerings, (iottsciialk breathed liis last — victim of that art to which lie
had consrcrnted tlio choicest years of his life. One more stone for the
trmple of immortality, one more star to shine in the lirmameiit of tlie
elect of (fdil. Tlie sepnlchro may conceal his body, but it cannot hide his
name, whicli not evi'U coming ages shall have the ]Fower to obliterati;.
Still are sounding in (uir eais the echoing harmonii's of tliar. final con-
cert, last song of the dying swan, solciiMi and majestic as the sound of his
own fame. Son of that giant country which will yet dictate laws to tho
world, (iottsciialk was a universal celebrity.
Oeniuses liavo no fatherland. In speaking of great poets, the world
IS their country, and idl ages claim lliom. lie was liorn in America, and
thougli he had visited many lands, fate still destined that on Ann rican
soil he shoulil liml his last resting place, (lifted with rare endowments of
inti'llect, not li*s couspiee.ou.; were the qualities of his heart.
Tin' i.iuse (if (Jdttri'halk was ever employ(!d in the noblest of objects.
To alleviati' sutler;;,.; was with him a constant ])ractice, as it was also liis
delight. How many times has it dried tlm tears of or]ihana I How has
it tempered the grief of the widow ! Many concerts were given by him
in aid of dill'eient benevolent societies, and" the numerous medals which
h<- had receiveil were the most convincing iiroofs of his charity and intel-
ligence. The public then of this capital shouhl go to-morrow to jiay the
:-CTi
;m
76
r.for.llM'IlK Af' SKKTCir.
llu; tomb that is to inclos,' tl.o ■•.•n.a.ns ol a «n at .u.m.
'iV. toll.win. nn-ount .-f his r.uu.n.l .s U.k.n Inuu the
'Ki.tWrum' .'1" the 21st lAvfinhiT:—
T,„. fun.nd of .iot.s..i,aiu wa« a ........m i;;'^;;;;-;;:;s^:;::;:,,.;;;;:
Hi'l,. ration an.l anistu' "'•"""""•V , „ ,1.,. ,.xi..>iis,- ..t tlu' same Sodc-ly
th.' .•ountry. TIh- l.o'ly was ..ml.al.n.Ml . t t . ' M"
^::;:s;:^:";;';:;:^r;;:i5ri^ ^ '-"^
fac,..* of all, a„.l many .•v.s w.-re ''"'.'l'^",; '';,.,.,, „f p,.o,,lo vas cv,..!
I„ tlio o.UH.t..ry of San .los. ^ ' 1'" '' ,, "^i, ,f ;,,i .^.I.kon th. last,
S.s;:;:v::.s:;a.r;;-;u:;v:;^.i ;u..^
:^[r. Ihnry ri'ealle, in a letter to ti iVieiul, suys:—
VI i„ iJiri 111" lio foroif^npr or countryman,
In all tl.o years I havo hv.-d . '^ ' ,, ' ^^ ,,' , ^.u^t of tl,. n.v...-to-
th. .l..atl> of no n>an vnAn.M so "' ! '' '\'^' ,' \', n' . thougl. we show..!
,.,..x...ll,..l artist, <-''-, ;''^'';;;;t' ;;:',,.; , ana b.mo,u-,.,l h..,v :
rr':::;n"u;::fc?r sl^tu" ^:;A' a,.a,u u. omy ta.. of tuis ..>■ o.
4l.(i.lM.O inhabitants is about tins '[''l^l'^'"";;'''. :;,•,,,,,.,,,,,. ,as, on.' c-f wlnoh,
coustautlv worked to i)erf.*t it.
coniposjitious.
lied li'iirs uiKiii
ii()Vim1 to liit>
s ii iiu'iiilicr.
ifcHtatinn. Tin."
till' |ircM'iiius ri'-
, an (K't of ctiii-
I tlicSiH'icty anil
In' saiiii' Snciuly
y, the Ixiily lay
lately ilcctirati'il.
,liiili (iottsclialk
It. I'rcviiius to
till! ' Moitt',' omi
icat artist. Tim
ili'il anil followed
A liand of nuisit;
iness marked tlio
peoiilo vas even
spoken till! last,
iif onr time. I)r.
La I'anlo. r^eiihor
eters of tlie gen<>-
Btird tiuii<l tears.
«vy9 : —
f or countryman,
lit of tlie never-to-
thougli weshowinl
il hononred here ;
alk of this eity of
•ras,oneof which,
ud iipou which ho
o v\:^it Europe,
ndi^li inipr •^-
iuvrts in (ireat
W iinpublishc'd
hKATIl AXn ITXEliAr..
T7
A-i soon iis the fidiiiirs of his dcntli ivadu'd Ills sistcis in
Jiondon, they inunc(liati'l\Milflioiio-li mai'ly lirolxchdn'iii'ttMl,
iMjido iiiTiiniri'iiu'nts to ri'lnrn to their native euimtrv. On'
their arrival in New York, where tliey found llie'ir imiIv
snrvivino; brother, (iaston, recently retiirned tVnni Mexico,
awaiiino; them, the first thoiio-hts of all of them were
tnrned towards havini,^ the remains of tlieir brother iiroiiuht
to the I'niied States. After many dilliciilties, the l.odv
eventually reached Xew York in "tlie steamer Merrima'c
from K'io, after havin-i- been detained for some davs at
(|narantiiie. On hmdin-i; it was eonveved to St. Stephen's
Church, on 28tli St. On the 3d of 6ct(.ber, isyu, while
the heuvi'ns were draped in clouds and drowneil in tt'ars,
a vast and sym|.athetic concourse assend)U'd in St. Stephen's
rliurch,to do honour to Ins sanctitied dust, and witness the
imposinii' ceremonies of the Catholic Church, which con-
sio-iu'd him to his iinal ri'stinu; place.
The irnind altar was (lrape<l with crajie. The collin,
covered with a lu'avy black pall, and profiisclv strewn with
flowers wrou,o-ht into various apiirojiriatedeviirs, was placed
upon a cataiiilque at the foot of tlie centre aisle, withstands
of candles at its head and foot. The jiriests all wore their
inourning vestments.
The music, out of respect for tlie most eminent jiianist
aiKl^ comiioser this country lias produced, was Clieru-
bini's .iiraud retpiiem mass iii C. minor. Tin- mass was fiiuio-
from the ori^-inal score as a full chorus throuo'hout. The
].iece sung at the ott'ertory of the mass was'a recent ar-
rangement for the occasion by his sister, Miss Clara (Jott-
sch;i!k, herself an eminent pianist and composer, from 'La
Solitude' and 'Last Hope,' two of the gival composer's
most popular ])roductio!is. As an interhuU', MVnsee
Poetiqne' was given v\ith great effect.
At the close of the service, 'Alorte' was peribrmed during
the removal of the body. '""
The^ metallic ease in which the remains were brouo;ht
froiu South America was inclosed in a beautiful mahoiranv
cofKn, upon the lid of which Avas a plain silver plate with
the inscriplioii: —
7*
78
moaiiAPllICAL SKETCU,
LoflH MOUKAI! (ioTTClllALK,
Dlwl (•.•.■.•nilMT is, iMi'.i,
Aj!i;il 40 yuartt.
Tli(! I'otly Wiis met lit tlio flinrc'h door I'.y lluit ot Kd-
ward'rt, tiikeii from (."alvary CciiK'tiTy. Tlio two wire tlifii
c'onvcyi'd to (Ircciiwood/iind (k'i)ositt'd in tlio vault [ire-
jiari'd tor tliciii s'ldi- liy side.
A iiiairiiitifciit iiioiuniu'iit, » tli<' finest wliito
iiiai'Mc, was I'lvctfd to liis iiu'nio >. On tlic pi'iU'stal ivsts
tiK' tijjiuro of an iinLCi'l ; in one liund hIio holds a book, on
whose white iiajjos are graven : —
Marclio do Niiit,
Dt'l'llilT AllKllW,
Mortt! 1 !
niiiiaiiicr,
Last lIoiH!,
MunauifS Eolions,
In tlio oIluM- hand is the trunipt-t of fame.
A\ lu'r fc'C't lies a marhle lyre, with its ehords l)roken.
The pedestal hears the tbllowinj, inscription in front:—
III loviiij,' lui'niiiry of
liOriS MoliKAl' (ioi rsciiAl.K,
tho Lolfbrati'd Aineric-an Tiaiiist
mill '.'miiposi'r.
Bdi'ii in Ni'w OrU^aiis, Louisiana,
Hth May, lS21t,
Died in Ui<> Janeiro, Brazil,
IH Duo. 18()i»,
Aged 40 year.s.
TTIs nnlilc licnrt and generosity made him beloved by all, and to liis sis
ters and liiotlicr, l>v wliom tliis iiionunient is erected, in all love and grati-
tude, he over was the best and most loving of brjth.TS.
On the hase of the monument: — '
Time will never erase the remembrance of his noble deeds and genius.
On the other side: —
Also to the loving memory of Edward George Oottschalk, l>orn in New
Orleans, Louisiana, 14 Deeember, 18HII, di.'d in New V.n'k, 'Z^ S-i.teiubrr,
1803, aged 27 years. He bore his sulTerings with patience and resignation.
Wherever Gottsohalk appeared the muse of poetry be-
came iuspire(L From Switzerland to Rio piece after piece
of poetry' was dedicated to him. They would till (piitc a
volume. In truth, it might be said, that wherever he made
tliat ot K(l-
ro wiTc tlitii
,0 vjiult [UV-
fiiu'st -will to
ii'di'stal i'v>ts
[s a bouk, on
aOTTSrilALK AS A MAS.
w
his ..phoammy poetry, tIom.,-s,u,Ml cnmnn ^^^,^vo h,.stou,.,l
"P"" ii>M. I ;• vvuH lavscutul wifl, tl„vo onlrr. tl,„t ..f
ClK.valjcr .lo 1 Onl.v mil ot, n.ilit.ir. ,l,i Mn„ ,1. ||„i
>; tlm hiuMo- IJ..l..t,.ii,-|.,n.l),.Mri.'),ortlu. n.val an.l .li..
tm.u,slH.,| (,,,.,,. or IsalK.lla flu. (^,tl..li,, and ;,(•(' ,1 ;
du lu liuil y cli^tiuguMe Unlcii do Carlos Tcrccm
(Is Itrokcn.
ill t'runt: —
II, and to liis sis
11 love ami gruli-
Bt'ds and genius.
filk, liorn in New
k, -S l^^'llt^'nlb(•^■,
! and resignation.
of jioc'try Ijo-
,'(■0 aftri" piece
1(1 till (luiti' a
rcvoi' he made
aOTTSClIALK Arf A .MAN.
TiiK tollmviiiir artirlo, u.ulor fl,.. sitr„afMro of 'Fhwo'
Me extrart troni the '.New Y,.rk J.ra.lrr,- 1.S7():_ = '
Ail I r.'inciiilicr ahont (Jottsclialk iiinMllir ic ii.ot i
al.s.,lut,. «„>-.sliij,; aii.l linillv ti,. t . . i '^i /md sri, ■„<■.. was an
^.ncn,.w .iJttachalk j.rotty intimately, and hav,. had many a good time
Ho «aH tl.(, man to Lav., a good time with.
km' 'mo':;:.:^.::;-::^;^/"" ^^-•'•' '^""- = -'-t im wa. ..iany .a
th'i;.ltS:^K::r];;J,;''""^ "- ^^'^^ '- -"^^ -n,,anionah,,. man and
iisll;:sf " ' '^'""" '"'"'"■■• ''"^* '^' "'"'" "-•'' -"^ '^•■y"""^ worth
^JIo wouldn't listen to twaddle, of course ; he didn't consi,!...- it ,,„lita
^'':S::^^^^ f^^.r'''^' '» ^■- >-' -- ^-^ the wo...,, ,„.,
I
80
Tiini;n.\pin<:\i. SKETCH.
•■■•SraH^Erri-:;^^ "
"'•';.';:;•; ,,, l,,u-,nv tim.k (.ot.«.-l.«lk «•«« a rolitl.ian, wouM .V"-. I
,..'i:r;n"::/i xl:;:."". -'^ "" ■•"•'-'-■■•^ ■ ^""■"^' ■■" ■" '""
Nml'li) t.i tlic li:i.kl"'ti.'. ...iiir.TtH ill Ciuuiila, tlio audi-
.j^'j^^'i^^^Jt-'i^r";.;^';:;:;.';-:;:'-- m.....->' >
;v';;;';:::;'l;:/J;;; .".lir ... ':»::,£■•■. ■ - '..., .-.■ ...i... » ■ <■•■■
„ (,,....■ [..-ms » (.-.I. i' "..' .li-ii."".;" ";'''•,, „,■„ ,|„i,. ,ril.„.,. I.. 11...
-;;::;,::;r:;;i:":" ;,;'':r'i;r\;;.a'»i;:.i»..".., .1.. -' '-•
M..lll^AU UoilSUlALIi.
00IISCU.1LK A9 COM|.Oai!R AND ItASIST.
tl„. vivitVin^' li." IS ii.dst tiv,iu.' "l.v '7'' ;;, ' ' ..,,,1 „,,i„ ,i„.ir ..xpiuisivo
{i„„s of tin. .,WHl,..n H.l,o„ !'• ' • ;.^; , ^,' ;„ „ur -lays ; tlu" rhar-
ncter and toicc ol tlifir >t\ h ioiisimi i i . p|-,.t,.nsion to
tl... art of paintin?. and r.M.t,M.t.<l *''"'', ;^..^, ,,„.",.l,n„l of tlio
,„„.,nonions and '•l"='^''-r'\ "'!;^7; •,, '^ ^! ;,,, , pMntin,, bas .lisrov-
i|llli('ul.
ri>!«llll:<.
ui.it mill |iiiUti'.il
woiiM .v<"> '
11(11
lis «.ri' viTy
(ilipiilii'llt tn IiHiil-
tliij
.|| Iliil'U lU
Ciuuiila, till) iiudi-
iKl.l
l.Iay.Ml 'll.iil
ivvcil "l-.'irc
liiit (it Inst,
lullv 111
I, iiiiiri' siiirit pi
DoihII
>h.
(' til save
liiH litV
iim lii'iii;^ 11 l':iiiiiti(;
iltli' tril'uti' ti> tlin
ititl'iil liimis,
y ilcli
icr sjiiiils ('4
1(
ho namu u
iially
ml will li'iin
f LtlLlS
XIST.
by ^fr. A. ^^:ll•-
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tvl' (if JlllK' 1'*,
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^'aiii tlii'ii' cxpaiisivi)
laid till' I'n-st loiinda-
rlcctl'll till' pi
ve 111'
our <lnys
roil, I H'Cl'l
mil- HO pr
writing 1
til
the cliar-
sitioii, foii-
•ti'iisiou to
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listit
itin>;, lias (lisrov-
roalistic, uatu-
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23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTEk.N.Y. 14580
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'•?SSf3JP!T^?—
I
1 I
GOTTSCIIALK AS COMPOSER A\D A/ITIST. ^l
ralistic, ami inipressionalisfi,; sohools. W. liav.. als,, our r.'nr..s,.ntativ..s
of Oiwutalisiu, K,.li.-i..n Davi.l, lirycr, aiM liizct, wl.„.s.. „aiM..s s,. w-U
.•.■siM.ii.l to tlioso ot D.ranii.s, Marilliat, and l'V..ni,.iitin ; ..iir N,.o.{i,v,.ks
Ilk,. M„ino,l Viotor Massu.an.l DapiMo, wl.o mull to ,.,s llaii.on, (irnmii-!
ami th,. whnl,. aidiaio srliuol. i,i tlir (Icinaii,! for .■oniiios,.is Inr tli.- plino
tlHTf has nsrii up a crowd of landscai.f-iiaii.t.Ts. j.roiH.rlv ;^o-,allc.l ,»»,•,'
pamt.'rs, scutiiMcntalists, or aiiiatfurs of the iMcturosqu..". M,.ii,I.>Ns,,Imi
W,t ( iKipiu, Sfph.-ii ll..ll,.r, I'ru.lont, Kosonliain. Wollf, Drlioiix, S.l.u-
loll otc, have couiiK«(.,l Humorous charactHristic piocvs, v.rit.iMo hiioux
o, ..•sorii.tive^,r,„v.. l'o,.ts, musidans, l.,vors of natnro. timv have suni;
ot tlwir absent homo or ot thoir lost country, hy translating "into th.. lan-
gua;:.. ot s.nmds the manners, character, and teniperainent of <liller..nt
nationalities.
(i..ttsehalk merits a separate place in tliis school for his individualitv
his distinction the originality of his eom,,ositioiis. and his excei.tional
skill in art Without haying l.een the discijde either of Chopin or of
Liszt, (.ottschalk very much resembles these illustrious masters by bis
line, delicate, dreamy teniperanu'iit ; surrounded, like Clioi.in, from his
infancy with generous a«ecti(ms and tender cares, liorn and reare<l in
aristocratic society, his instruction and education were carefiillv watched
over. I need not relate th;' interesting and romantic ejiisodes whi<h drove
the grandparents of (iottsclialk, whose maternal ancestors were the Count
and Countess <Ui Hrusle, from St. Domingo.
The name of (Jottschalk will always live in the ni.inorv of liis friends.
lIiH work as composer brings him near to Cliojiin ; :.s artist, he holds a
position between Liszt and Tlialberg ; lie obtained from the idaiio verv
peculiar ellects of sonorousness ; his jday, liy turns ner\o„s .lul of extremV
delicacy, astonished and charine<l, he used tlie perlals with great abilitv,
a perfect tact, but to our mind he, jierliaps, too fre.inentlv ii^^ed the soft
pedal. Minute critics reiiroached him with writing liis line embroideries,
his delicate arabescpies in very sharp octaves of the piano. The obscM-fa-
tion is just, but it must be remarked that manv of th(. comipositions of
t.oitschalk favour by the rhythm and the nature of the ideas these elfects
ot shrill sonorousness, which scintillate in the liannonic scale of sounds
like a jet of electric lire.
Of a feverisli activity, burning to write, as if under a presentiment of
bis premature di'ath, (iottsclialk published in a few years a relatively con-
siderable number of original compositions, ingenious, delicati^ly chiselled
and of such tinished work as alKrms the rare conscience of' the artist.
Notwithstanding the universal infatuation of the voiui" scho.d for the
JHiwerful sonorousness and the processes of Tlialb(>rg', (iottsclialk has sac-
riliced very little to the fondness of arpeggios, which for a long time had
become a vi'ritable monommia, at the point even of fatiguing the inv.'iitor
himself. Gottsclialk knows how to escape from this fever of imitation, and
preserves in his compositions that wholly s])ecial flavour of j.oetic reverie
an individual character eminently original. liis grand fantasi.is oii
'.J.'rusalem,' the '(fod 8ave the (jueen,' ami 'Trovatore,' perhaps accuse
bun of being a little under the intlueni'e of Thalbcrg. but they are an
exception; (iottsclialk ofti'iii'st only depends on his inMsoiial inspiration,
and on memories and bical impressions, remaining sfi-iile before him; soft
melodies, new rhythms, harmonious murmurs, a whole musical w<uld
rendered prolific by the artist.
'Le Bamboula,' ' le Banjo,' 'Colombia,' have the lixed character of
go IilOai{A I III <- .1 /. f^l^l' T( 11.
,.|,-i...., O^M.m. 1'?"^%, ,,,.„; ,„„vi„.^ ,,assi.ma,.- note vibraUs
lumsi'lt. V" ."""^Jf"' 7 „,„„,, ,,;,...,.s for til.' salmi an.l .■.mwrt true
eftVot is iifvor sought oi , Im al^^,^^^ P" ^ ; , j,;^ youthful rap-
„crit..«.«".i."«;'»'"l»»"»."l»'«a
last souvouir of syuipathetic admiration.
his nootnrnos,
,' 'Kicorclati,'
uoto vibratts
\\ of till) artist
liens,' 'Chuti'
s havo all iiitl-
.1 has t'Xci'Uod
ore alisoluti4y
si-iration, vnid
1 fiiiioiTt true
itli wisely cut
■s FoUets,' 'la
' I'usciiiiuaile,'
e i)iaiio, where
tiuii, where the
s youthful rap-
mesa,' ' Bergi'i-e
,' 'Fantenie tie
juisheil hanuo-
xrclie lie Nuit,'
,s,' 'I'Union,' a
ami Scherzo,' —
rtility of iniagi-
iclialk— neither
lyle. Ho then
leof the masters
rable souvenirs
ave appreciated
eiulerness ; and
irate to him this
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
BY
LOUIS MOREAU GOTTSCHALK.
(83)
■e"-^V®f!ffi«i£^--^: . afct^
PREFACE.
BY THE KUITOR.
TiiK Notes .ind Diary of L. M. Gottsclmlk now ofTcred to the
public oiiifiit to liiive jippeareJ several years ago ; eirciiinstances
over wliicli 1 liad no control prevented it. It is hoped, however,
that this delay will not have diminished the interest felt by all who
have known and admired L. M. ( lottsehalk.
After four years' anxious waiting, by dint of constant applying
to the Brazilian Government, and through the kind consideration
of the Emperor, the trunk containing the pajiers of the celebrated
pianist was at last sent to iiis family in London. When opened it
was found to contain nothing but a mass of soiled and torn papers,
in such a dihipidated condition that at first I, who undertook the
task, confess to having felt discouraged. Still, having resolved to
do it, I set to work, and, after a labour of patience and persever-
ance lasting two years, I completed, as far as was in my power,
the Notes now published.
This I state, and feel right to state, in order tliat if any fault is
found, the blame may rest on me, not on my brother. Had he
lived, and been able to accomplish his cherished scjienie of pub-
lishing his travels, the work, no doubt, would have h&m more per-
fect. I have done the best in my power, considering the difficulty
of the task ; and must now leave the success of the work in the
hands of the public, and to those who have appreciateil our dear
brother as a man and as an artist.
1 am greatly indebted to Messrs. Houghton, Osgood 6c Co., of
Boston, Mass., for their kind permission to use the three articles
entitled ' Notes of a Pianist,' which appeared in the 'Atlantic
Monthly.'
CLARA GOTTSCHALK.
LosDos, March, 1880.
8
(85)
tiii»jat,rtiii..r ^
NOTES OF THE ALTlIOIl
WHICH MAY HERVK AS I'HKFACE.
WitiTTKN willioiit Older and without coiinoction, with liasty piii
ii|.(.n llic l.'.'ivi's of my |.ockc|.l.ook, llicse Notes, wliicli souk- iliiy I
(.iirpose to publish, were at first di'stiiiod only to bo read by iny-
self. I have taken, durin^t tiie long years that I have travelled, the
habit of fixing daily my impressions of my Journey. They possess
no literary merit, but they speak absolutely the truth: is that a
sufficient compensation for the numerous deficiencies of style which
the critic can find in them? The recollections of my travels have
often sii|)porti'd me in the ennui and fatijiuc of my wanderiufr life.
In writing about the present 1 otten forgot the bitterness of liie
past, and when, on the contrary, the present became wenrisome, I
plunged into happy memories of the times which are no more, and
I reawakened its charming emotions. These poor leaves have
received my joy, my griefs, and my pains for the long time that I
have whirled in that monotonous and agitated circle whicii is called
the life of concerts. :May the resider lend to them a little charm
when it is wanting, and when he shall find too flagrant i)roo('s of
awkwardness in my pen, let liim remember that 1 was but a musi-
cian, and only a pianist !
(
(87)
r"^
NOTES OF A riANlST.
CIlAlTEIi I.
^fv fiixt visit to Till)!! was in IS.'):',. It was on my rotnrn
from Kiiro[H'. I lia<l Just spent ciulitcfii montlis in Spain,
five of which wen- at the Court of Maih'id. I spoko Span-
isli; tlic (^uivn iiad conferred uiio?' me flie Cross of Isahella
the Catiiolic; and the Ciiiclanero, after havinu,' lieard tlie
porformanco of my symphony 'Lo Sie<;e de SaratC'wse,' had
presented mo witli the sword of Montes, tlie iiii'noiis ' Imll-
ti^hter.' I was tlierefore in tlie l)e^t condition to i)e well
received in the ' I'earl of the Antilles,' without relyinu;
upon the hundred letters of recommendation which it was
not necessary for me to present in ordi'r to receive the most
generous and friendly hospitality. 80 much has heen
written upon Jlavana that 1 shall not essay to s[)eak of
what is so well known; that Ihivana is situated ut the
hottom of a. l)ay (uiay not this he the origin of its name,
which ujt to this time remains douhtful, notwithstanding
the researches of the etymologists — Havre, Haven, Havana?),
the very narrow entrance of which is defended hy the funous
'Morro' on the left, whose camions gape, in a frightfully
suggestive manner, within reach of your hand ; on the riglit
hy tlie no less formidable Fort Culjana, huilt in the rock,
and bristling like its opposite neighbour with a triple row
of open jaws. Hardly have you jiassed these two threaten-
ing sentinels, than the sight re[)oses on red, white, yellow,
pink, and green-ccloured houses, with stiuare and iliittened
roofs like those of an Arab's. We come to anchor. The
never-ending torture of custom-house ofKciuls, doctor of
the port, captain of the port, clerks of the port, and por-
ters of the port commences. After a great deal of noise
8* ( 89 )
pQ SOTKS or A rUMST.
,„„1 littl." w..rk (it i. n.tl.cr tlu- i.umiiir ..f .InioiT t|m.,irs l.v
Juluur an.l ' liA.n.lmrk. Tl..-y tl,.,, ,.hj us ... a s.,ua v
Lll in si-l.t nftl.r .'ivil Kuanls,ai..l i'stal^ .>h ...... ..Im itv
l.v i.icai.snr <..ir i.ass|...rts uivrii j.ivviouMy to tla- nij.tain
until we shall M"'"" <'"' i^'"""' "' '" '•''' '"'"" """' ''•
us a itci'iuit to land. , n ■ i ,.i
|)unn>^ tl... v..va..r tV-n. N.-w (Mean, to Havana, 1 Lad
whose. n.o.U.st tnivllin,t.MliTss ha.l .xp-jsnl .1'."'.'."',"'
,„.U.n.ss of some .-i.'h tra.h'sn.cn,asiK.ru.s ,.t n..livj.lna s
.;;,„,, ,.,,,,1 ,h. st..an..rs ofth. wo.l.K an.l who n-v nhva>H
n.,M..n.i/.o.l l.v thoir cravats of cvory shixl.- an.l .•olo.n, th. i
insoK.n.v, ana ha-l tast.. Tl.o tw.; stranuvi's, who ayi-"';-'!
to h. hut sli-l.tlv aiUvtcl hy th...r ostm.'ism stoo.1 aj.a t.
]K.sin.iM to inaU;. n,. f.T the .•u.h'.u.ss ot n.y ^-ll";;;-;-'""' • "
men, r soULcht an oi-i.ort.n.ity to mtroUiur niys.lt t.. tl.ci .
!j,.\.v..nin^-,wh... a.vo.,lin,,^ to th.ir ^'y^/^''^ ''-3- ^
c-onvorsin,^ at the stern of th,- hoat, 1 Wan t h.n. l-'-'ou . e
the nan,.: „f ('o.n.t Man.iani, an exile; latl.o ir yo. an
..hilosopher, whom I ha.l known u, 1 ans. >'^;}^\^^
iKrasio,', an.l i,itr...luee.l invs..li At the ^"''l <« ' " *
hour we were the best tVien.ls u. the w.M-l.l. lea rne.l I at
tlu- lar-e ..M man with re.l beard was he^Count do ( a>-
sat..,and that his tVi.n.l was the Count .lo M'^l'M-'ta, ••;
travellin.r tor th.ir i-U-asure, an.l m i...sscssion ol a tortuiiL
ofn,anvniiUi..ns. () wealthy sh.M.keei.ers, it you hut knew
it' There was soniethinti t<.uehintr ni their trieiidslui.,
wiiieh ha.l been e..ntraete.l un.ler very sinirular eireuni-
.tanees. Both of these old bachelors i.hil..soi.h.r., an.l
travellers, iifty-six years ..hi, ha.l made up tl-'"; /'^"L' ;;;
the one in Tuscany, the ..ther in Tumi t.. visi the h e
,,i,rts of the d..be. They had laid their plans iiic hodically
bv tixin.r the probable ep.x-h of their death at the age <.t
sixtv-tiv"-, an.l they c...n,ne„ce.l their travels One eyenm-
the "Count do Cassat.) ha.l sou-ht refu-e tor the . light in an
inn in the imrth of Spain, an.l ha.l iii.)n.>poli/.e.l tor Ins
supper the scanty pr..visi..ns whi.-h from tune iinmei.u^nal
are found (whe.r fomi.l at all) h. the laixler ot a Spanish
um— that is to say, a eup of chocolate, some hard egg>>, aiul
s/ym/.A/i MEhyriMi,
M
\\f tliintTH l»y
I'd \A\w a I It I
« in :i s(|Uiir*'
our idfiitity
I till- fiiptMiii
tiiriicd to iH
iiu' llifv 'jcivo
iiviiiiii, I liiid
two Itiiliaiis,
tllllll to tlic
if iiidividiiids
no iiiv ahvav;*
I colour, their
^vlio apiK'iircd
1, stood apart,
■llow-coiiiitry-
ysi'lf to tlu'lll.
• Ill, lln'V wi'iv
iciii iiroiiouiico
liolic ^iiH't and
1 si'izi'd the
nd of lialf an
I U'liniid that
L'otuit dc ("as-
liilaiicrta, hoth
)n of a fortunu
yon l)Ut ki\e\v
i-'ir friendship,
liXnlar ciivnin-
loso]ilu'i's, ami
\) tlii'ir inindi^,
> visit the live
IS mi'tliodieally
I at the age »»t
;. One evening
the night in an
poli/.ed for \)\^
ne iinnioniorial
•r of a Spanish
: hard eggfi, and
ohves. \\ li. II another hungry traveller presented hini„.|f,
the landlorii, pressed hy tlie reiterated demaiids ..f the
lle\Veo|iier,expos.d his sitlial ion to th.. fi rst. 'rheCoiinl di'
( assato, with niiK'ii .■arnestiiess and t-o.-d hnnionr, olU'.vd
the halt of his siipptTaiid his hed to the iieweoiner, who
was no other than the Coinit de Malaperta. Tlie sii,..-,,-
lanly o» this meeting, the simihiruv of Mieir positi.ms
tastes, and pr(,j,.,ts hoimd them to each other, and thev
have never separated since that dav. When I h.cani.' ac-
quainted with them they had alreailv visited Asia. Afii.a,
the whole <.f Kiirope, and South Ain.rica, and tliev wen'
now ironig to Havana ,» root, for Mcxi,,., \vnu\ whence
they e\|.ected to leave for Australia, and the epoch which
they had lixcd for their death hciiii; verv Hear, I ). V tliev
w..iil.| return from thence to Turin.' They each wrote daily
tlieir impressions of tlieir travels. Theri.nnt <le Malap.rta,
u learned philosopher, whom a lii^dit shade of misanlhri.pv
I'crhaps rendered less agiveahle than Count de ('assat(., wa's
to undertake the task of con(U-nsiiii.' and comhinin.-- the
two journals at the end of the voyai^e.
Italians and eiitlnisiasts, two lioiirs had not elapsed after
landing hclore they had found a inusie-sliop and a piano,
anil my tirst evening in Havana was spent in plaviii-- for
these twocliariniiigand veiierahle men the whole repertory
ot^their (K'ar Italian music.
This manner of travelling hardly resemhled tliat r)f the
two hng ishmen tliat \ nut some years since at ToIi.)sa.
Iiey ha<l their courier, who spoke Spanish (of wliicli tliey
did not understand a word); they carried tlieir tea with
them ; wore green veils on their trrav hats, and tlu'ir eternal
tie!d.n;|ass suspended in its ease hy a hand around the
shoulder. J'hey read every numher of ' The Times' which
liad heen issued since they left homo, and had Wvn sent
to them from England. I found them eiuht months after-
wards, at Cadiz, at the Ihjtel d'Aiigleterre, with their tea,
green veils, gray hats, their spy.c:..ss; and their courier. The
only change which had taken j.lace in them w. s that they
ha< ' L nele Tom's Cahin' (tlieii ail in vogue), which their
amhassador had given tliem at Madrid.' Thev <li<l not
understand one Avord of Spanish ; had never' seen the
country, only the Hotel Anglais of Cadiz, of Seville, and of
92
ISOTES OF A PIAMST.
''?'mI A w; ; . r,;n'u'; lit; .Va, of .1,0 11....1 .l•A"-
and \(>iiii__, ,-. ^,w 1 ,^f^| know the (. olisouin,
imm-ossioiiB ot Italy. \\ no (l(K^ m-i ivi. \i„,.i' tlii>
Wor to iK^.tk^s ™n*<a,.toa bv m.ll.ons
i , : van t " .1. 1. 1 .nakc; to ro„on-a.o n,t« >i-' >";;;-i» "^
ri;;:'!;raBi:^f^'|;:S'?-^:i-;S
i^ioncu aic r^r*^ ,.i.ivtlie castanets, ami arc 8mugi2;lers ;
tha tt. Gem . arc beer ban-el:. in the n.onnns and LarroU,
that tnc vjtci iiiaiin .I Ttiilians are <riveii to assat^si-
of leer in the evening ; that the Italians a. »
-£ Strbeenta Z'SZ Xn ^I'^'nlt^.o .Jo.
aiiAMJ FESTIVAL.
avo iK'on re-
I't'iiinsulairo
Hotel d'An-
lunv a I'oun-
rlu> inair-KTrt
■ all ]>ivcon-
'•^, and above
me wisher* to
a (•ariK't-lia<r.
-nernl are an
Can-: '^Tliat
, but for tl>e
\\ ni(n-e eom-
e to yiureliase
many do not
ratopi whom
ithern States,
rtVontery, and
ma.ny mamas
f to them his
the Coliseum,
St. MiM-k, the
, and the liay
taly by heart,
loss. I have a
)f classioal _d.>
i of eenturies.
1, the personal
o the minds of
wlien they are
imstances men
, and to probe
II tell me that
sive; that the
that the S\.an-
ire smugglers ;
md polygamy ;
ling and barrels
u;iven to assassi-
this I know, or
ae not to know
03
it, Soim- travellers, through imbecility or ])ad faith in
sjieaking of the plantations in Cuba, deny the assertions of
tlie enemies of slavery Iiy assuring us that the slaves on
the plantations visited by them have a happy air, and that
during their stay they had not heard a single blow of the
Avhip. lla]>py tourists! Suppose that, instead of looking
upon these joyous tiiees which smile in the |ii'esenci' of their
master, you had had the curiosity to take otl'tlu' clotlus of
these unfortiuiates and to examine tlii'ir shoulders, you
would have learned more in a few seconds by the view of
certain scars badly heaii'd.and jierhaps wounds still I)Ieed-
iiifr, scarcely healed, than all your observations, founded
upon your su])positions, had taught you.
On my arrival at Havana T forgot the distance I had just
travelled, and kei)t on my linen clothes. The winter was
truly oi)0 of th" most rigorous that had ever been expt ri-
enced in llas'ana. So on the day after my arrival 1 was
taken ill, and was contined to my bed by a" threatened in-
flammation of the lungs for three wi'cks. 1 was scarcely
well when the Captain-General, Marshal Serrano, invited
nie to the J*alace, and two days afterwards I gave a very
successful concert; but the fatigue I experienced, after my
long illness, caused a great irritation of the bowels, which
rendered it again necessary to keep my room, and to diet
myself. Two months after (on the offer made to me by the
Cicneral-in-chief to place at my dis|)osal all of tlu- military
bands) — I had, I say, the idea of giving a grand festival,
and I made an arrangement with the director (»f the Italian
com])any, then in itossession of the givat tlioatre of Taeon.
]tc contracted with me to furnisli his chief performers, all
the choruses, and all his orchestra, on condition of bavin*'-
an interest in the result. I set to work and eom[iosed, on
some Spanisl' verses, written for me by a Ihivaiiese poet, an
opera in one act, entitled ' Fete Champetre Cid)aine.' Then
I composed a Triumphal Ilynm and a grand march. My
orchestra consish d of six hundred and lifty pei-fonnei-s
eighty-seven choristers, fifteen solo singei's, fifty drums
and eigh-.y trumpets— that i ; to ^ay, nearly nine hundred
persouti bellowing and blowiu;; to see who could scream
04
NOTI-S OF A PIANIST.
tl.o lou.lcst. The violins alono wore seventy in numhov,
You .an iu.lirc of the ottbct. Nc, one can ha-e an;. t.U
of t e h hoi.- whiel. it cost me. The copyu^g ulone at t^^
re .stral parts amounted to live thousand trancs Ih Me
w.' e two thousand pa.^^es of the act ot the <>l-'>'^ •', ^' ,\^'^.
^^. Cuhah.e' more than fm.r thousand V^^^:^^^^^
two tliousand l.a-es for the llvnui. 1 was obhge.l to am tc
o h^h scluvtor all. Beii.les, I had to revise p^vre hy
1 t 1r' whole ei-ht or ten tliousan.l pag'es. I had m t e
;S\v^ < -ch an anionnt of labour tlmt 1 rc-mamc.1 sj^eji^-
t vo hours at work, sleeping only two hours m v^ e,^ tAA entj -
!• 1 xv.< to ir V a very heavy forfeit m case 1 was not
.'';; V at the t me «xed n\he contract made with tlie nn-
n ^.H^. of th^^i^So. " Xotice to artists. To give a con-
^n t ^ Ta:^- i' o.,nal to laying a plan for a cjunjjaijrn
Jopiming an opera of Meyerbeer on the stage, or to el t n g
t K "ri^i^Joriot'of Bal/aV-, finally it is an immense elfo t,
reiuiring a great deal of money, of time, ol dij^oinac^ ,
ai I uwles of steel in the service of an iron will.
"mv health iV>r a veiy Unig ti.ne has ^^}}-^'-^^^
i^ sen- far from being altogether re-established J-^*.^^"^ *,
don- and change of climate have great y_ tried it. I u -t
; t • nling to the a.lviee of my \''^y-^^^,^'^^^\^'
S of the *orth which, .hiring thU^ -.del^ ^^)^n
excessive. In eight days I prokd^iy shall '^^ ^ ;;^'^ ^'
loans au<l I shallremain there only one or two AveeU
The heat here is already insupportable, and m spite ot
tlK em i-t m de by the opera, an<l two or t^ree American
1 i ivuscs nearly everybody has left for the country.
We ox ect from "day to day the company ot 'Zarzuela
ra S^mH opera), that Don Carlos Kaya, the present -
(a opanisn > i )t . ; ^^ engage, and
iSSVo nl ^i Cing^^ tlUical season with
:tnu-:^flu;r;:rilliant'ltaliav troupe, whisht U3^^
hnpressario promises us at the beginnr-.g "^^ ^f ["^^,^^1
l" til now I do not know anything deh-ite about the p<r
I /of this latter companj'. So many ^^^'^^J^^
i' » Mf tbnt it -^ impossible to foresee who will be
c!;:4vdy ll^on mLuuc-c.1. 'The lust uvuuber of tl.o ' .To„m„1
LA GAZZAXIGA.
05
in number,
•0 any idea
ilonc of the
IK'S. There
•ra; for the
and nearly
o'c'd to write
iiso i)as2;e hy
[ had in the
ned sc'vonty-
vory twcnty-
so 1 was not
^•iih tlie ini-
'o give a eon-
a camiiaiirn,
or to oditint:;
mient^e e-ifort,
if diidonuiey,
win."
•arions, and it
I, Exfossive
;d it. I nuist
eneountor the
ntor, hart been
1)0 at Xi'W Or-
I'o weeks,
nd in spite of
ree Amcriean
untry.
' of ' Zarzuela'
le present im-
to engage, and
cal season with
hifh the sanie
of December.
about the prr-
liifercnt artists
ee who will be
I) have all suc-
of the '.Tonrnal
de la Marine,' of Havana, asserts that the whole four will
eome. This assertion is so much the more singular, as, he-
sides thi'se four [irima donnas di Cartelle, Iveiniett, con-
tralto, is already engaged, as well as Fanny Xatale, soprano
sfogato, and Agnes Xatali, contralto. Total, suveii doniie
de prime Cartelli. The tenors are J'ancarri, A'olpiiii (whose
wile is engaged as second prima donna for the operas of
'Mezzo C'arattero')!! and Testa, a charming tenoriiie, whose
ex(piisire method makes up for the <lcticiency of a synijia-
thetic Itut fet-lde voice. The baritone and bass are equally
goiul. 'J'hu choruses are to be augmented by foiu- men anil
four women engaged in Paris bv Air. Kaya. The orchestra
Avill also l;o engaged there, the artists engaged for the
S]>anisli opera are — Prima donna. La Latarre, J^a Xastariz,
and La Santa Maria; tenor, Gonzales; baritones, Fol-
guerras and Kuentes. The leaders of the on-hestra for tlio
two companies are six in number — a nujuber which ap-
pearing ex; ggerated is nevertheless hardly sufficient for an
audieiii'c that constantly wishes something new, and deserts
the theatre on a second" representation; ' La T'-aviata'is the
only opera that has triumi>he(l over the apathy of the ])ub-
lic of Havana. Ahix Abiretzi'k gave it twelve or tifteen
times before crowded houses last winter, and nineteon times
the preceding season.
It is ji fact sutlicii'ntly interesting to be noticed that tho
ladies literally took jiossession of the theatre everv time the
posters aimounced 'Traviata.' (3n t .e ].art of 'the ladies
were sobs, transports, ejaculations at each of the dift(-'rent
catastrophes of the drama of Alexander Dumas fils, the
sight of which was very amusing, and more tlian once ex-
cited the unbecoming laughter of the pit. La (iazzaniga,
wIioh; gestures and acting are somewhat violent and often
exaggerated and adapted to a southern audience, had Ijc-
eome two years ago the idol of the fenunine puidic of
Havana. The enthusiasm which she excited bordered on
madness. The gentlemen threw their hats to her, the ladies
their embroidered handkerchiefs and their bracelets. Two
factions were formed, whose disputes, begun in the theatre,
were kept up in the streets, and many times frequently
threatened to liecome a riot. One of these factions took
tin part of Frezzolini ; it was the enlightened and eon-
1
I
II
NOTES OF A PIASIST.
tl,.. la.lios an.l the yountr ^ /'V' ; .md at" tl.o aristocrat u;
(,,..aui.iuistas or ^^--^ ! j^; ' ;^ \^^ortuuat. dancorH
],alls of one or the othci l' '\"; ;!\^.^.,,. H,orciU-ssly sacri-
,vla. l.olo.>un.a to t^u" oH"-; ' /; a^ confo.fuar.rs, tlu;
fi,, 1. The ^l'-;-;;f - i:!'^.:;^V;; ;me l.ore '^ k IVas lata,'
vafos wore i.arti>an_>. i ■ V ^ themselves at Ins shop.
j,„.l all the <la//,anuiui> a> sui . ' K,e//olhnstas ran
Another, 'a la ^-;'''''''"V 'i; hu ma l.assio,,s should he
there. It^^^''^ iV'T n. Ji.K M ^^ ''
exeite.! so violont v _ hy suel U uu ^^ ,^^ ^.^10^.
certain that si^eenktu-u ^'^,J' ;;'l^'^^. ,,,,s A^re n.ade in
veseenee, .M tl. ^-^, ^^ /^l ^^^,,1,, receive.) fr<nn the
a few months. At la "^ !\" ' ^. .^ .,„i i i,i commem.^ration
l.ul.lie a I.M-e and a cup * \;; '5^\^;a ,,|,taiued in ' Satlb' hy
k.thedouUe triumph which ^^^^ I'/^^'^'Vpi,, ,,,,ipts were
Pacini and the M5nn<lisi ^l"^^"^^^, the icwels whieh
over twenty-tivc thousai ..mc. ^^^ . ^ ^^.^.,-\,itl,out ex-
,vere tl.rown o ^^.^^J^ ^tl ii^to oi'ty thousand francs.
am^'i-ation valued a. ii^^»^^", '/V,, , .,^^. ^„ecoss last year in
"La Cartesi, soprano s ogato, lV''< J^.^ ;'! .p^,^ ,xuheranec
^Trovatore,'an.l l'a[^^^'» '\'-^>;;;;;, ,J, , 1 e oxakvrations re-
of her gesture. and^.rt.m ^^^^;^,^ advantage
called Uazz-aniga. ^he h. I ^^^^ Nothing more was
of ai^poaring ''^^^^ ^^ !^tml o^^ partisansf The Gaz-
wunting to a\yaken the "'^y^;' "' • \^^.,. iiappv rival, was
zaniquistas adopted lioi-^ l^^^^^^^^^^^f the strife recom-
Bustained hy ^l^e iKH^plc o ta,t| am the encore
n,enced. The anthmntu^s ^^^ ^ J^^ of both prima dou-
1 l>ave heen to Cardena. to give a ^?^^^:^'Z
tion tor whieh had been ^;^J^ ^ty .vhich is not
I'hilharinonlc Society «*, * ,^,{' '"^e^^w reckone.1 among
CAnDICXAS.
07
composed of
If ^•i^ls wre
aristocrat ii;
latt.' (liUU'orr<
iU'ssly sacri-
ctioiH'rs, tlio
la l^-iiv'iata;
1 at his sliop.
'.olinistas ran
lis should ho
ilitios. lt_ is
ifoiioral ottbr-
voro made iu
ivod I'roiu the
iimit'inoration
[ in ' Sattb' by
roc'C'iptrt wore
jewels which
V without ex-
nsaud francs.
ss last year iu
"hoexuheranee
iiiigerations re-
.mse advantage
ling more was
uis^ The Gaz-
ip))y rival, was
! strife recom-
and the encore
loth prima don-
Each of them
'ceipts of each
iand francs.
rt, the 8uhscrii>-
advance by the
tv, which is not
reckoned among
'arly one-half of
y- seven hundred
I thousand hogs-
heads of mrdassos) is exj ported every year from Cai-ilenas.
Its Jurisdiction contains five huiidivd thousand souls and
six hundred sugar houses. AVithsucli t'lcuiciits it must he
one of the richest of the island, llcr husincss is almost
exclusively witli the I'liited States, ^'isited priiiciiially
by the ^'ankees, whose activity, enteritrising spirit, and
industry agree marvellously witli the necessities and char-
acter of its inhabitants, she is at the head of every enter-
l)rise and of all the ]irogress which for some years past
have ti'ansformcd ancient Cuba, and made of her to-dav
one of the richest, most civili/ed, and most beautiful coun-
tries of the world, rerhaps the jjreceding statistics may l)e
found useless and tiresome, but it seems to me, now that
regenerated Hpain has revealed to Europe all her resources,
and again takes tlie rank which fornu'rly belonged to her
among the groat nations, that it will not be witlKuit interest
to many ])ersons in the community to know the imiiortaneo
of one of the new ports of its ])rinciiial colony. The
theatre at Cardenas is only a provisional one, and but little
Avorthy of notice. They are constructing a new one, which is
only about one-third uj», and has alreacly cost one hundred
and ninety-five thousand francs, and ])romiscs to be like the
Tacon Theatre at Havana. Tlie churcli isof the ( Gothic style,
and has so much the more charm, as 1 am accustomecl to the
massive and heavy architecture which the talent oi' Iferrera
has made to such a u'reat degree the fashion for the last two
centuries. It is elegant and boldly su]iports two aerial
clock-towers which, at a distance, give a picturoscjue etl'ect
by detaching it from the dark verdure of the cocoa trees and
jtalms. The churcli and theatre are the two prime neces-
sities of a Spanish American city. In the United States,
when they found a new city, they commence building a
liotel, afterwards a church, and finally the noAvsjiaper ofHce.
Given, the hotel, church, and political discussions, yon
have the existence of the Yankee. Immediately- after the
newspaper office comes the 'Lecture' or 'Concert Hull.'
The 'Loctiires,' of which French people can have but an
imperfect idea, are essentially an American inventio'% and
have become an imperative necessity for a ])eo]ile cotistantly
occuided with popular elections, political or religious dis-
cussions, and public discourses on every possible subject.
t7
,,g NOTES OF A PIAXIST.
Tho i,rolW.ion c.f lecturer i^ one of the most lucrative that
] l^wCot Kv^'.-vl.o.ly Hpeaks M'ith tu-ihty and w.th a
•or in elo,iuenc-o tl.at .lenuuuls no s,.ec-ial study
\ •oneert at Canlonas was a c-oniplete suuyss, n.l 1 ^^ as
.n.^m.Switii the enthusiastic reception winch they Ka^e
" Widedly my trip to Cardenas In. tal^en fidndons pnv
^'•^1'i'T ""nn;srit ^;w.>ti;;:iohnm!;^'il;;rcssions.
^r !iu'»d s t Us n ^v^^^^ I mni^norant ..s to
one can sec what lie liKes. -luc ini^y- p,.i-li'nis
in.r of h ero«;lyphics. But the """'r*'!.„\.^,, .,,.^ „„:,,„
•■^v" A t AT'iriias " \Vhcrc are we gonig t \\ e ai c gf )in_
tlietniu (ia;)»wu Cardenas to Havana, tor it ih
1 ;<-\ fii.it tnv three days 1 luive uclu n^inj, -^
by it) tliat loi TuiLc f ,,,.,, :^,g(,eiotv of Cardenas,
Havana. Invited hy the 1 hiUunomci^y v
the happiest memories of my lirBt %o>agc to ^im. ,
ISu to S I'VTon my -eat anA my tat,guo».' Uow
liswMsMBewsiHSWt'**
Inrrative that
y, and with a
idy.
coss, and 1 was
I'u'h thoy gave
I fiihulous pro-
)f iiiiinvssions.
iirnonint as t<>
lilway rarriatre
111(1 whose ji'i-ks
. spirals (.'haria-
onl the eyo the
tic I'ornis every
irh I have just
disk. I'erhaps
hie to the uiak-
s: "Where are
" Wc arc gf)ini!;
c a little kiiowl-
een ignorant for
80, my residence
[Tavana, for it is
ave commenced
ring to return to
ioty of Cardenas,
1 all the ardour
>rous friends and
connected with
J to Cuha, could
;nes an hour, and
tering every now
'tor insists on ex-
•tive as resulting
e of green wood.
' vicissitudes and
tears my cars and
,gaytome,"IIa8t
^tatigues? How
niM.oauK WITH i.ocoMnrni:. ,,,,
;i'pii:tv:s'a;;j^
says tlujt eve,y road Ie.,ds to Ro,,,.., tlu.;. was c i !
easou tor tlnnkn.g that tl.c railn.a.l fWm, C'ardc a In
navana must conduct me to Havana
last tnice la.>,.| I„sscd Irom station to station fro.n inn
o mn an.l_tin,ln.g n.vs..]f fiu-thcr off than ever f le
end otour .lourney ! J)o „ot complain, for if thy <'on. lu-t •
on y gn-cs thee p-een wo<.d, I endl.re the horn! ^ cl ^^1 '
■^ ^^' .''"^ ^,^'.^" Vl;^-l'i^'l' l"i^ I-een served up to us on the roa.l "'
After tins < lalogue hetwec-n the locolnotive and n v df
I placed myself ni a comfortahle position for a nai. fro a
which I was not awakened until n.v arrival at av,
hK)ken down hut happy for hanng e;caped the dai ge.^ of
a long and fatiguing journey. '"'fetra oi
CIIArTER II.
wi?if •''''""^P' ""^ ^''"^ ^'^'1'^""'^ '^"1'''^''^^ ^ voluptuous languor
ndi IS contagious; It is a poison which slowly infiltmie
ul tlie senses, ai.d henumhs the soul with a species of
i passed at Caymito, m the interior of C^iha. I had iust
recovered from a serious illness; some newspapers, in.lied
ad niourned for me in very flue necroh.,.ical artic'les; M-
^Z&o"^^' tt'anng a malignant fever, had prescrihed
t^^- T:^'"^ ? '^'"^ ^" 1'"^^ nn■con^•ak.scence in
thejunsdictmn of Guanajay, near the Sierra d'Anafc Ft
^^as a vast plan., m the centre of which rose a lartre s.n.are
modern huilding, Jiaving only a grovmd-fioor, life, most of
r
100
AOTKS or A PIAMST.
1
tlK. CulKin lumsos. A fruM,.! <.t hu.usnv u, md intrn.V. o
cwti.l.lish ii sUL'iir i.lm.lation <.n tins land, pla.'C'l at i".> ''>-
,. al la casa d.! a.ao (tlu- mast.rV lu.u.o) the oiily one; .y.t
, Vl Kvorv su-ar i-lantatum invanal.ly consist, ot tlR.
win- h.\ildini:-s, wl.u-h, for hv-u-nir reasons, and or
vonk^.ro, arc identical: C'asa del amo which cn.-n .k
the centiv, and is isolated iVoni the rest ot tho^//.ra ; ca^a
rm al, the cmuwandant-s or mana.^a.r'. dwelUn-,
, a . niol .inda, the huildinK which contan.s thcs cam-
:,:.,c lor hrnisinu^ the canes; it •-"nnuni.^ates with he
sa del ealdcras ^(boilers). Ai erwards .oxuv. d lio^.d
pital), d comd^n which the d..niest.c animals are ke}. ,
1 +i, U- ■^i Poiie distance, las caonehos do la negrada
;\^;,'' d^n4 E V o el^^nni the mayoral nhuts them np
ti^^h; k and key, M^cr havin- c.dlcd the roll, a.id nuuc
tl . n rene-it the Pater Noster and the Ave ^hirui. 2sotlnng
; ' d ye eUsfcd at my friend's. There was one house
d at wfiieh wo arrived throndi an immense avenue ot
m ms A kind of woodc.i asc-ent of twelve stq.. led to an
ex eior gallery, a sort of Indian veranda which is to a
Oda hvellinrj what a porter's lod.tje is with the 1 rench.
Fn t e -alk^T vou k.ok out upon the conn rv; i is an
olen-ioi-v; visitors ean he soon comintc, and in the dis-
?. CO he ne-voes watehed at their work. 1 here, he is
m sed hi the hammock or the hutaca, m snu.kmg sleep-
Ingjn drinking cottee, and, above all, m respiring the air
"^^li^om- in ?he easa del amo, or to bolon. to the plantation,
.urns up the whole life of the negro. I^o servo el amo is
tl m shal's baton of the model slavQs. By way ot l.unish-
ent thenegroeB of the town, who have committed any
e'-cadXs, are sent by their master to the holds which
lorvi a manner, for the galleys. Tlio beasts^ ot burden
i- the t^^^l are intlnitely better treated, and their oxistonce
ess ccmiprcmiisod than that of the poor slaves, obliged,
di rim the grinding season, to work from oig^htoen , to
t^e ty hour^"every ^ay, to brave the heat ot the devouring
sn or endure the ^lohi-ing rains without any other
k"hes than calico drawers. , The mayorales, or oveijjm.,
treat the sick negroes in their own way. I do not know
tliit they understand anything at all, but these gentlemen
inh'iiAi'tl to
I at ii.y tli^-
i>iily one yvi
isists of tlio
•lis, and tor
ic'h ot'cniru's
lijiiic'i ; «"i^iv
'a ilwL'Huiii;;
t^ the stoani-
tfrt with the
K'rt d hiispltdl
lalrt aivkt'iit;
i} hi nogtachi
uits them up
)11, and made
nil. Nothhig
;as one house
iwo avenue of
teps led to an
^■hieh is to a
, the French,
itry; it is an
id, in the dis-
There, life is
noking, sleep-
[)iring the air
:he plantation,
«rve el anio is
,vay of punish-
Dinmitted any
• fields, which
ists of hurden
their existence
laves, ohliged,
II eighteen to
the devouring
)ut any other
^, or overseers,
do not know
lese gentlemen
S/A'6V7,.1A' nr.MEDY.
101
ha en pn.<s,on for systems; then tl,.- ....nsemiencos of fhcs..
. I li.sistn.ns. J.c,,„ (a ,,:,u,,t mrdicine) Is iruunillv the
urn ersa! panacea must conm.unly en.plo vd.' I f n cu t
^mtiago ,h. Cuha a l!as,,nc .ahm.st :lll H... over vr f
e r;"a^;'"rr",;'';/'""'l' '-U-.uhoconldh^nly
u.Kl, and treated all the sick uith cold water. \ UyX
e.stern m the n. hUe of tl ..alMal was the onlv'L nejt
t Kit at tlie riire of an liysterical voiiHir lu^-ress whom
hev threw twtce a day into the hasin. sh. struo..,- „
r hfy in the water, and hy a miracle was not drowne. , . t
^™:;i!:''^^'^"'^^^''''- '-—that she <iied five ii;;-^
frJI'^f^T r^''*;^ • ^ "'''.'•''•^^'"^ ^^■''■^ "t "" J-nr-s distance
fiom the first (.ahms of Caymito. Tliron-hont the ,st
plains an.l the. ^dds of .ane not a vestio-e of ah 1 it o,
triuj dese,;t tor a league ronml; the mo.n.tains ^* A itJ
n the hon.on. Ah'.ry an.l Theophilo (^authier would 1 >
Kvon.emad m contemplating Ihis para.lise, in w i .1 an
of mv" >V'"' ''""'"'"'• f'"t'"-t""nt.ly, the onlv co a . V
ot 1 . Kden was a very ugly ..egress who, ever, eve ,J^
a tcr haying roastc.] the .■ofiU-, hruised her Corn in a 1. w
piece o wood, and recited the Ave Ah.ria Ik-Iov , M
«. ourc.1 im..go of the Vi,^i,, .ame and s.,natte< d wn t
n r. ;:•/'" ^^": "^■•.'""'''' 'V"' tl'ore, in the .hlrkness, sunj t
charm, the canciones of the countrv. I would ]i,rl,t hv
0} tills Mient and primitive nature, into a cntemnlative
reverie, wliu-h those in the midst of t}:e ever\--d. v w, • ,?
«.n never u.ulerstand. Tlfe moon rose ov<^; tli. Si^.,;* e
Anate Fhe crickets chirped m thefiel.ls; th- Ion- ave
uue ot pa 1.18, whidi exf-nded fn.m the casa t the en-'
ranee ot the ], antation, was sepa.-ated into two ll-u k
ands on the umform ground of the fields. The phos o ,t
rescvn a.-ahesqnes of tlie fire-flies flashed s.iddenlv^tLCh
the thick darkness that surrounded us. The distant noi.Ts
ot thesava.mah, horne softly hy tlie hive^e, st uck o i nu'
eai- m drawn-out murmurs. The cadence.] r-h.t, ■ ? "^
an this poe»y , which no one can ever ima'ane
9* * '
102
yoTKs or A /v.i.v/s^r.
. r • r ivtirin-. I tlnvw on.v ii"..v a last l.-.k m all
,, V .llous nat.uv, and witlahvw into no; <>"">""[- „,
., ,Mt .l-i//U'.», Htni.k ii.v laiMp and cxtniguisl.c it 1 he
; , U, ; h '^^^ little anin.als in thoC'uhan count rv honscs
' mncnL-. The a,artnu.nts havin, no ...hnj^ m t -
♦• w ..If ■md hian'"- sonaratfd from each otlit-i <""}">
natnos (o\*i «,. i... tlicir (luartci-H. As soon as niiiht
mmmmm
T Iro wa- little of variety and of relative interest as na>
uotl'ini? contrary to the couuuandinents ot our Mothei the
«■(..
r.i/'/'.i/.v i.oito .\si, /.rsAd/:.
tm
ly iMirar ; my
iiir my tiruin
I tla' I'xtrtiiu'
ciniiiiu'd tlius
(•(• ot" SiTi'llo,
it* tosiiy, tli«'
f, look oil llll
y iliiimlitT.
low iukI iIk'Ii
shed it. 'Hio
oiiiitry lionsc'rt
liiio;s'lnit tin-
otluT only l>y
ic'Vfii U't't, till'
urity. Kv^'iy
illCCllls II IK'St.
lliat (Tdss tliL'
•ill tiistc" of the
uttiuji- imiuli,
^ soon UH nijilit
wiiiiffd colony
,• with my lyi'^*
iming, liiid my
8liari» littli' *'fy
liiimlior. Kow
y iiK'lii(U'<l l»nt
the rustic lihm-
•0 Good ("hiis-
iiual of Cultiva-
I'd into Sjiaiiish.
the Holy Mass),
iitcrcst, as may
cious discovery
the eighteenth
ters, inii>ossihle
Kather Don An-
le Holy TiKiuisi-
of His Majesty
he work l>y the
\t he has found
our Mother the
Holy Cliiircli. This l.ook corifaincd tli(. pocticjil works o\'
tile valiant and very illustrious (thus nm the title of the
worM cjiptiiiii of mtiiiitry, Scfior Don H,. radio .\ii.-iwto
.lose d(> los Angeles de J.(.ho e Xiiiieiies. This l.nivi' mail
ot war mtorms us, in mi epistle t(. the ivader, that -Mais
hail ailopted him for his well-heloved son; that Apollo in
m-ailtude tor the Worship which he had vowed |„ the
Muses, treated hiiii iis aspoiled child." Well, at last lu .e
IS a siiKvre pivfai-e. One feels at ease with irood (aptain
I.oho who, m spite of the hullying airs which he takes on,
IS at hottoin the most nmiahle of creatures. His cascnu.
has all the appearancoof Memhrino's helmet. Mis sonnets,
when he does not turn lliein against the enemies of tlu'
proud (astiliaii, are the iH.iupu.ts of ( 'lil(»ris. Jn the midst
otall this l.urles(pie nihl.ish I found some charming thiii.--s,
HOUR, pictures of manners truly strikiim", and some vi'tv
minute details. A poem on the taking of (Jihraltur, for
example, where, swimming in the midst of Homeric de-
nouncements, and of furious imprecations ayainst the Knu--
lish, I discoven'd some very interestiiiir historical tiicts of
an undouhted character, f toimd in it the wh le tralle ■
ot (ill I Mas' characters. Whether l.esaire has stolen or
l»orrowed his work, he is ci-rtainly the only one that lias
made ol(l Spain known to France. ' A/>r<>/)i>s ot' Lesatre, what
most irritates the national susceptihilitv of the Spaniu-ds'
Uihraltar, it may he replied; or rather the witty, hut sli-lit-
ly veritahle gasconades of Alexander Dumas, r)/»/u,«« of
Madrid, ^o! What has ren<lered, and still renders the
Spaniards unhappy, is the usurped ir|ory of the author of
!i''\ '!';l'-i in ''^'^■'••'r'^ 'I ^^•"■'^ Mhicli l n-ad in Spain, enti-
tled "(ill IHas, stolen and translated into French I.y a Mr
Lesage, and restored licre to Si.anish hy a Spaniard," jealous
ot his honour, and who does not jiermit any one to ridicule
las nation." ^rust not this Spaniard he sHiihtly related to
the illustrious Chevalier de la .Nhmcha? Whether or iK.t
this he the case, it is almost certain that Lesai;e only com-
piled ditierent \yorks already puhlishnl at Madrid, Which
however, does not ])reyent Ciil lUas from hein-i- an exact
mirror of the Spain of the eighteenth century /"juid somo-
tnuerf, also, of the nineteenth.
104
Aor/v.S o/' .1 I'lAMST.
,„,.„^,, ,„ fall. All il.i' i.aH..'UL'rr. wont holoNV I < "' "
U..olat. .uuntry wl.i.h oi....u.a nut Ik- . • • ?^
a 8t..nnv sky. Alt^cthcT, an.l nmiv c^siii'-iallv tli in
. HN^t.Zus ainni-V, n..e on. lo- on. nM> ..nkn,^ an.
'rf^ :^ ;u'%.X.l(.rl.an.wl...vinUK.ov.^
L\lr (.t" Hu. l.ous. lorn.r.l a .••,,•.•1. an.un.l n.y uran I-
;, : :;::".'.,!;l:r;.^g:M,.r ■,,• ....if, .u- "-•■*-;;,;;;;
otlR-r while my LM-an.lniothci- c-ontmucl. I was \Mi"<.' >t
• I'o 1 he favourite of Sally, to judge by the stones w th
?-, . i lU mv head. 1 was not tiiv.1 ol hstennig tor
"^t^a^^nl tn.o nu.ncaiousaa;...t,.es ..O.ni.
T,.,u.,ui (the elown of the negroes), and the 1- '»^^'> ^J.
anapl Uiu, who.c type represent, our puneluuello ot
nt'CITAr.^ Of .}/)■ (ilt.WfiMnllll.li.
105
'llMlllilS. Oil
'I'll.' iii.i^lit
I rciiuiiiii'il
lllpliiU'tl <1'*'
iiu': lliirli
tlu'V wi^liitl
inuiiii'' MiiUy
, wc'ir Inst oil
lly tin- liiilili'
i;,oiiiiitiuii liy
siirnrtiiiii, so
.I'u.s. Whi'ii
liniiuliiiotlu'r
ko nil till- IH'st
li ; till' iiiirni-
il.iit loiisilit ill
ist tlu' lu'irroi'rt
towiinls tliciii
ii strikiiiu iiiul
I iitiiiin foimd
vflliiiii: oil tlic!
IV in till' I'Vi'M-
uysi'lt', iiml tlu'
iiiil my fiTaiitl-
on tlic lu'iirtli,
ri'ss, Inikfil Ik'I'
U' iio_u;ro iiirtiir-
vviiik' listi'iiiiig
lit of N!ii>ok'oii
ohstiiinti'ly by-
I look at her, in
niillit lio. AVo
I its l)alilii<'liiiif<,
Mie between the
I wiirt without
the stories with
of listeniiii!; for
iitnres of ('online
the knavery of_
• punehiiiello of
- -I-. NNe hM..,u.,i ,., .SalK ... v.. II ,|,af SK. knew tlu,
U.nle o h,.r xA./vr.v |,y|,.,,rt uiM. ... int-.v,. U.mI rnu-
f 'I'les till tn-,lav, n.HJ sfill luakes „„. li,,.! an i..ex|MVsHi,| ,
'•""•''• ';.' "II ll.e>e naive jewvials of o„r o!,| ,„..l,,.,,, r
H ho.iM hke to n.late, in their |.i.t.,r.s.,,u. lai,::.u.,. l,,,,
their eN.,,i,s,t.. nri,i„ali,_v. suM.e ..f thole Cvul.. |„.||.„iH
\\l.ose siinpir alM lnii,.hil,^r i.u.l.MJy irncs riirht to tl,,. l„,„.t
anil iiu.kes you .hvani ..f nnknoun w,.rl,U. To relnrn to
the iveitals uf my oi;n..li„uih..r. On.. „f n.v tlivoiirite
Htorieswas that oi .ln|,„ 1.,,.. ( 'oiiik'., raptain ^.f t .im-
juvay neirroes ,,t |,:,yu„ Sarah, who fiUnl ti,.. whol.. ..f
i.oj,isiaMa with li.e reiH.rf ,,f his saiiuniiiiarv . N|,i.,its. He
resist..,! al..ne. this hero „f ,„„• savannas, 'all li... ..NiM.li.
tions s..|,t in piirsiiil nC him. Strani-v riiiMoiiis w..|v i,,
eireiilation <.ii this siil,i,.,.t. SoiM..|i„u.s j, u-,.s a .L.taeh-
ment ..» tro„i.s that had veiituiv,| to H... haunt of this
I'n.u-an.I, who disappear..,! witlioiif aiiv one JHiiitr able to
di>e..v..r any tra.'e ,.f him. Sanetiin.; it was the hunter,
MK.se ball was tlatlc-iu'd a-aii.st tli.. hivast ,,f hras Caioi'.
WH.s.. skill was rendeiv.liiiv.iliu.rabk. I.y ...,,,ai,. he,.bs w th'
yh.eh Ih. r.ibb...! ,t The ne-ro..s ass..,-t..,! ,l,,t his l,„.k
hiseinated.and tliat lie fed on h.i.na.i Ik'sh. II.. was tiinllv
«;ipfnivd,i,i„l_,.,„„l,.„„i..,| tol... hi.iiir ii, the 's,, liar..-. 1
Hte .!,.. .Spanish ('a.lu..lnd. I|, ],„, |,,,,„ ^,„'^„.,^,„, J,'
terrible s.-u.-vy, and tl... iiifi.,.tii,,. ...bMirs exhaled bv his
eo.-p... two h..,.,s ;,fr,.,- his ,.xee„ti..„ iiu.l.. il,,.).. b..,Vhin,
n.nt..ary t.. tlu. law that eondenuu-d hini f., .•..,„ain s,.s-
pc.de. to the ,irall..wK tor two <h.ys. Son...ti.,u.s Sallv in-
e.T.ipted the .,a.Tat.veof ...y ^r,,„uI.nother to ex,..vise u
/onib,, oi wlueh, she sai.l, she felt the impniv br..ath on
Jie. laee. \N c i.i .Towed o.ir eirele, shivering- with fri-dit
arouiul n.v piiidmotlu.r, who, aft..r erossin.- lu'i-self and'
^eol.liiiir Sally, took ,.p h..,- sto.-y whe.v she ha<l left u\X
1 will not repeat the lonj? Herie.s of inisfort,i,i,.,s .,„.! of
in.' Vh'''? ■■•.!'' •''■'''•■^' VV'' *'"""^^' sii,.,.,nnbed at the
time ot the te.T.b e ins.u-.vetio.. of St. Doniiiii.,,. It would
be too l„„ir, and besi.les is only the history of tho.se of all
heeoloinstst.t St. Don.in-o towa.-ds theek.se of the last cvn-
. f t-l^'.t ^' •';''^;"H"*""l^'^^l'V'; the Count de Brusle, irove.-.ied
at tiut epoch the quarter ol XYiq petite riviere. UU family \Na.s
106
NOTES OP A PI AX 1ST
it
,uit,.nillv ono of the first against w umi the han Is ^f B J^O"
wore iiifuriat,..!. My great-unelos Avrre all '"'^-.•^; ';*^;
Their (hiu.^hters and wives, fallen n.tc the i-ower ot their
'l^r sla;-es,.vero .ut t« death after 1--J^ --;;{:
-....•ted to the most uornhle outrages. M\ gieat-giand
t eres^-a id in the dress of an old nn.htttress ' woudou
w eh) h I unrse, and ran, notwithstandn.g Ins seventy
V-u to lac-e himself at tlie hea<l of the eolomal troops
ih ...e u? was heroically kille.L Mv .n-andtnother saved
'self, half naked and dying Avit(i ^f^^^^^^l';^^'^
many da vs in the woods, hehig tinally found l.y the cap-
du\>f an Kni.dish vessel whieli made sail tor Janmiea.
C any one ho astonished that the name o.ay f bt
iZ^iul awakens in me sond^re memories, ^^\^J-
could iH.t help feeling an indescrihahle sentiment ot mela -
. olv -hen fir the fi^st time heholding this hdal land w h
which are ;.ssociated so many grievous reco lections .^ Our
dw u^s hurnt, our properties devastate-h onv ^r unes
mnihilated. Such were the first eilects ot that war he-
Jw m two races who had only i.i ->"^^r 1^'r'"J^' c^t^
hat implacahle hatred which ^'J^'l^ "-^^''^ , r\'^^:^^^^^^^^^^^
C\ui anv one, however, he astonished a- the i^^/l^ition
ex^rctt.l hy the negroes towards their old masters? A\ hat
c-mse mor^ver, more legitimate than that ot this people
; h^ir au'ony rising in one grand ottbrt to reconcpier their
nlu)wie.lied"i-i^-5^^« and their rank inhmmuuty? In
a)S'en latin? at this distance of time which o-day ^epij.
r cs us Vom the events of this niemorahle epc.ch, tlie work
;^^^;^,Ltion appears tons purged from the stains im-
irinted on it bv human passions. It disengages itselt tiom
chdows which ohsciired it; the blood has disappeared;
s ain^ ure wiped out ; and from the bosom, ot this worb
vhic crumbles iwav rises, sombre and imposing ho grand
>rm of Toussaint rOuverture, the entuisiastic liberator of
r ce that nb.eteen cent.iries of Christianity ha. not yet
£in aW^to entranchise tVom the yoke c^ ^1^^%^^:
cn-eater i.art of the colonists emigrated to ^ew Uikans
5 V ^-aLunother, then very young was ot tins mirrd.er ;
\ m4t number also to Santiago de C uba, .Nhich is the
oaSe Ihat. now, even in many parts of the island ot Cuba,
French Creole is spoken in preference to Spanish.
^a
FREDERICK DARDAROUSSA.
107
[s of T^iasson
iiiassacrod.
wor (>t' their
o; boon sub-
groat-graiid-
.'J,(^ ' woutlou'
\\\A Hoveiity
lonial troops,
(lotlier saved
f, wnndoring
l)y the cap-
for Jainaii-a.
o-.ily of St.
, au(i that I
('lit of molaii-
tal hind with
ic'tions? Our
our fortunoa
that war hc-
)t'twoeu them
for the other.
lie retaliation
isters? What
of this people
jconquer their
iimanity t In
li to-day i^opa-
Kieh, the work
the stains ira-
tros itself from
's disappeared;
1 of this world
;ing, the grand
ti(riiherator of
l-y liad not yet
inisories. The
New Orleans
this number) ;
, whieh is the
sland of Cuba,
.iiish.
St. Thomas, July, IS,-;?.
^ I have 1)0011 hero for fifteen days, and ouirlit notwitlistand-
ing to go unmediately to Venezuehi, wliere J have been
e.xiiectod t„r mx months, but as soon as tlio news of inv
arrival roaohed the (iovornor-Cionoral he wrote me invitiiiir
me to dme with liim I was rec(mimended to him by the
i.x-1 ivsi,Umt, (u'lU'i-al Keh of the Kepublic of I Vru. At
tlie ctessert Ins Lxoelleiiey proposed a toast in mv hoii..in-,an(l
expressed the desire that 1 miglit l^e hea^rat least om-e
belore leaving the island. A subscription list was (.pcnod
at tlie tahir, and next day a deputation of amateurs of the
city caiue to offer me fifteen hundred dollars for thive eon-
certs. 1 be last took place day before yosterdav, 'la ^farche
de:suit, '\alse poeticpie,' and the 'Banjo,' were encored,
liio event of the evening was a gigantic bomniet of ro.ses
and of cape jessamin, tliat two negroes, bcndiiiir mider the
burden eame to present to me upon tlie stage ni the name
of the Chevalier de L , a Genoese gentleman, a dilettante
smger, and besidos possessing also very uncor.inion musieal
erudition. Ihe bou(iuet was not less than four feet in cir-
cumference.
The Chevalier (le L has lived in this island for many
years, and has l)uilt a mansion at tlie loot of the ^ower of
J^rederu'k J5arbaroussa,on the summit of a hill which over-
looks the harbouiNaiid which was the haunt of the buccaneers
ami filibusters. Frederick Uarbaroussa, their chief at Sahit
Iboinas, made of it a veritable fortress, as its position ren-
dered It impregnable. I found still there the camions in the
ombrasuros, and some piles of balls; nothins is more melan-
cli()ly or speaKs more to the imairination than these ruins
and some old arquebuses on the wall, and 1 j.'-knowledo-o
that i could not help feelii,g a certain uneasiness o„ ,icscend-
mg the suliterraiioan vaults, dug out of the livii.o- rock in
winch they shut up their i.risoners of war. Several in-
struments of torture, ami manv skeletons of men and
women in chains found at a small distance below the soil
winch the porter of the villa showed us, recalled to tlij
imagination the most sombre ].ictures of the bloodv du- las
^yblch according to tradition have bore taken place. I
listened shivoniig at the recital which an old nco-ro officer
told me. He spoke in a lo\v voice as if ho feared that
108
yOTES OF A PIASIST.
n
1
FiMlorico ol Ycnhvro mi-lit f^till boar lum. Ho kiu'W the
*•■ U m tu-ouu^h his father, who ha.l it from a.u.thc.r ch
. n w ose- father had kn.,w,i hJarhan.ussa. Ivery wuehc
^ f^uom'ed the na.ne .f Frederick i;'-^"-'-:;.^^ ;:;;^;;:;:^
Lis voice au.l irave lue a mysterious look by ^^hu■\i ^ t out
doubt he Avish'ed to make me understand that the spirit ot
'Verdmjo'sfdl inhabited the tower.
The Island of Saint Thomas is hardly twenty-hve miles
hi c-ireumferenee. The Danish government, unders undmg
; yrd the advantage it -idit draw Irom tlje ^o-
n-ai.bh-al lu^itiou of this little island have made ot it a
fiv .ort (.win- to wbieh it has to-day ac-iuiiod a -om-
ie im portanec whieh none of the .large islan-ls ot he
A t\ les ea 1 now dispute with her,-Saint ^Fhomasis to-dav
l^' "llun'e of the\wo continents-the market m which
•ire bartered the products of the two worlds, bt. -i'oimiig)
mk her mal4iny; Havana^ tobacco; Cuba m.d 1 orto
Kico sn.'-ar; Jamaica, rum; Santiago, c^ooa; Antiocuia,
ii k! Id l>l^nd gold ; Venezuela, hides. All these are b.. led
n va«t warehouses, true chaoses, -l'^'^'^ «\^. ^^It . •
i.roducts of Europe, from the niuslms ot Manchc^ta aiui
the s ks of Lyons, to the bottles of Doctor Girandeau ot
sSn G^vdi:^ It s a species of lair to which twi-e a year
ail the 1 cddlersof the two continents of Spanish America
r ior K commerce in specialties is doubtless unknown,
f ■ r el-^rAvilv sells everything here. The periumer keeps
i)low-shares, and sells English needles.
^iXirope hi return furnishe- her the products marc or ks
reliable of her commerce: Nantes, the wmes ot Si.ain, ami
^ h ms of Westphalia; Hamburg, ^rard s pumos ; Cajhz,
tlic oil^ of Aix; Birminsham, hardware; Fans, ch na ci.ipes
SI e Hell Toledo blades etc. etc. St Thomas is a nava
S^^tionof the greatest importance. I er l-^'t, ^rround..
bvhi'di mountains, attbrds a sate a/yl'^i ^o y^^^V '^ «* '\'
En s'durin- the hurricanes so terrible m the Antilles. It
t it, he Kunt of junction of all the En^dish and A niencan
tJue,V network of which extends from Southampton
tt Sw York to the Isthrnus of .Panama aiid covers the
whole of the coasts of tlie Atlantic and Pacitic us iai as
^Tiifortunately, the yellow fever rages cruelly at St.
SAIXT THOMAS.
100
[o km'W the
another old
cry li 1110 lie
I he 1 AViTL'd
lirli without
the spirit of
ty-tive iiiilori
ulorstuiidiiig
oiii the ^w-
uude of it a
lired a coiu-
slandrt of the
iiiias is to-day
kct in which
St. Pondngo
la mid Torto
,; Aiitroc'uia,
CSC are stored
found all the
iiiehesti-u- and
Girandeau of
I twi^-e a year
uish America
less unknown,
L'rfunier keeps
ts more or less
of Spain, and
[lianos; Cadiz,
<, china craiies;
las is a naval
irt, surrounded
vessels of all
e Antilles. It
1 and A nierican
. Southampton
and covers the
leilie as far as
cruelly at St.
Thomas. According to the ofRdal statistics it carries oft"
more than one-third of tiic sailors wlio remain in i)ort
during the months of July and August.
On my arrival the e] Idemic was raging in all its violence.
The authorities had taken the scvcrt-st measures to ]irevciit
the lioats from landing. The steamer was forced to anchor
one milu out at sea. The marine hos])ital had heen trans-
ported to the other side of the hay, and surrouiuhMl hy a
sanitary cordon to prevent all comiiiuiiication hetweeii "the
town and the jiort. In sjiite of all these precautions, two
days after our arrival, our steamer had alreadv lost seven of
our men hclonging to the hoat, and three servants on lioard
attacked witli the same plague succumhed in a few hours.
Another steamer leaving St. Thomas for Southampton at
the same iteriod lost during the voyage twenty-ein-ht sailors
and fourteen passengers.
.My intention on arriving Avas to take inmiediatelv the
schooner Isaliel, which started for A'enezuela twice a month.
I rememhered that Tlerz was not willing to venture a con-
cert at St. Thoinas, and I knew too well the great experi-
ence which my illustrious predecessor had ai'4uired in tlie
art of giving concerts, not to follow his example and 'Inirn'
St. Thomas. The consignee's ofHce of the Isahel was ()\>i'u,
and r hastened there and took my passage. " The schooner
will leave in two days," the caittain said'to mo. 1 ]< w spend
two days unless hy visiting the environs on horsehack?
It is what I undertook to do. There is nothing so pictu-
resque as St. Thomas. Figure to yourself oife of those
hox-es of toys in painted wood from Xuremborsr, Avith their
polished white little houses with red roofs, and their trees
of symmetrical foliage. Place the houses the one hehind
the other on three littl(> hills, throw here and there clusters
of palms and cocoanut trees, add a background of moun-
tains like sugar-loaves, a foreground of n'eat, prettv (Iwel-
liiigs cocpiettishly stuck here and there, a skv like^hat of
Switzerland, a i»retty littL whitewashed fort, pierced for six
guns, enahling the tinted breeches of six pretty little green
bronze cannon to pass out. not forgetting the big (ioTman
sentinel, sleeping or smoking his pi[ie,"iu his seiitrv-l)ox
and you Avill understand the "charm which detained me lie-
I'ore this agreeable and peaceful scene. I staid there until
10
110
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
i
the bcnnning of cvcih.g. The night came on, I rotracod
the rca.l to town, an<l I did not leave m two days
Fvorvtlihi" at St. Thomas wears an air ot gentdi.y an«l
.mod nature That soothes the eyesight and the nund ; espe-
rially in leaving Cuba where everything seems iii a state ot
1. '. V The ne.rroes are free at St. Tliomas. Ihe mulat-
vies .emed to me remarkably pretty-they have pre-
served the t;on<>» (a sort of turban) ot bright colors. _
The tetes at the Tort de France, on the inauguration ot
the statue of the Empress Josephine, have been very bril-
linnt For three davs the town has been literally (uerruu
bv iimumerable strangers who have been attracted trom all
tiic nei.--hbouring islands to witness the brilliant sc.lemnitv.
The h«Ttels were not large enough ; some slejit a hi Mir
ctuilr (that is in the open air). 1 have supped witli hve
En.'-'ish ofKcers, who had hired tor the night, from a re-
taiU-r of lu.uoi-s, the place beneath his counter. It was
<loubtless impossilde for anybody to sleei)— thanks to a
crowd of invading colonists with whom it was necessary to
dispute inch by inch the ground. .,.11.1
1 had, tired of the war from the hi-st night, abandoned
the field of battle to them, and gone to walk, by tlie liglit
of the moon, on the 'place' of the town— an immense
s<iuare bordered with gigantic tamarind trees, in the imd-
d e of which was erected the statue of Joseplime. 1 hi=^
statue is cut out of one block of beautiful white marble.
The attitude is simple and noble. The Kmpress, standing
erect, holds in one hand the m-'dallion of the Lmperor,and
with the other seems to indicate a Pomt of the hon/on
through which her eyes seek to pie.ye. That pomt is the
* Three Islets,' the birth-place of the .illustrious Creole.
The vessels of the trovernment, the Fulton, Lnciter, and
Ardent, sent to all the little Antilles to ^f "'.f/ '>'"' ^7^;
ornors, who had been invited, have returned with the del ai-
tations of the consul-general and governor ot Cuadaloupe,
the consuls-iicneral of Dominica, of Bar'iadoes, Grenada,
Santa CYuz,^tc. etc. A chamberhun o the ^;i"J^^/^-
mark represente.l all the Danish Antilles. Ihe first da)
was consecrated bv a banquet to two hundred p. rsons. given
bv the island to her guests. The next <lay there was a
oovia-nment hall. Fifteen hundred invitations had been
Gi;axd ro.\r/:nT.
Ill
n, I rctracod
ays.
jiontilily ami
niiiid ; (.'spe-
I in a state of
The iimlat-
oy Itave pre-
olors.
uitiiiiiit'um of
L'oii very bril-
rally overrun
icti'd from all
,nt solemnity,
opt (i hi I'clli'
|ie(l with five
lit, from a re-
nter. It wart
-thanks to a
18 necessary to
ht, ahandoned
:, hy the lijrht
-an inmiense
s, in the mid-
leitlune. This
white marhle.
)ress, standing
! Emperor, and
;)f the liorizon
lat point is the
)us ('reole.
n, Lueifer, and
rins; their gov-
with the dejiu-
)f Guadaloujie,
does, Grenada,
i king of IX'n-
The first day
\ \n isons, given
ly there was a
tiuns hatl heen
10
s-
g on, that is to say, to,- fo,„. ho„,s people mished eaeli
other with a desperation the more inexpli' .ahle as the t .!
peratuiv liad heroine iiisupportal.Iy hot. At supper tlie eii-
husiam reaehe,! its hidK.t ,.oint: parth-ularlv i'ter av... v
i api.\ speecli in treueli, nuKk-hvthe Kiiirlisi. ..•oveni,.r ('.f
jSauite J ueie. The seliolars ofthe semiuarv ^.^v \l
upper gallery, and at a sig.ml tVnn, the iroverr,o,.,.f M.ut\u.
in the mid.st ot prolonged applause. Apropos of the s.holais
ot the seminary I ought m passing to feli.itate tlum on
the niaimer m whieh thev exceuted the 'Miserere' of
I rovatore, arranged for military musie, with sole, for tl
saxophone, hy their ahle I'rotessor Don dose Kuix, a <lis
tmguished guitarist, who, after travellini; and -ivin- e.,,,-
certs through all America, has come to c^tal.lisli hiinsc.lf at
^-amt 1 lerre. ihe ].rogrammo announced for the last dav
ilef?'!!?! /''*?' Ml V '"' ^''■''" ^'y ^'"tt.schalk. The consul-
gcneial had cAlled on ine to contrihuto hy my talent to the
success ot the iete, which so far had hoen so hrilliant.
1 had aceepted a suhsidy of tweho hundred dollars,
AYhich had heen vote<l to me hy the colony for the expenses
ot a concert and had asked the services of Ma.Iam llu<lan,
a distinguished smger, an old pupil of the Conservatoire
^^ho IS Letter known in the profession, espoeially at ]5or-
dcaux, where she ohtamed ahout twelve years since trreat
success, under the name of Madam Koska. All the l-ov-
ernors with their staffs were j.resent at the concert. In
the middle o my piece 'the Siege of Sarao„ssa,' under a
till tire ot chromatic gra].e-shot and deadly oetaves, I
hought ot looking into the hall, where I saw the line
la.-ge head ot an Lnglish major, re<l and snoriuirrthe maj.-r,
iiot the head) like a German humming-toi.. You n'av
im:.gme the hlow given to my amoHr pmnrr. At the
moment that the tirst cannon gave the sigiml ti.r the assault
ot baragossa I hold y commenced ' God" Save the Queen,'
^^ liuh I comhine.1 admirahly with ' Partant pour la Svrie •'
iijy hig major started out of his sleep at the noise of the
V :'/ / • .^ ''^'llicose hearer, enchanted with the n.fn.te
conhnle of these two themes, in spite of their opposin-
ihythms, recognized his national air, and, deli-hted a^
1
112
NOTES OF A PTAMST.
■'• \
down ui-on licr warm and prolonged ai-plauso.
PoSCE.
T l,,v,. i,i«o.l four wopka on tlio i.lantalioii of Mr. K.
honours of tlicir c.nitbrtal.lo Mnansion. A\ Imt < "''i"' "o
io^^-r those ibur wooks, so rapidly clapscMl, have lo
n : r !' • of nonu.d artilt condc.nns me. In so itudc I find
h/rev Sesai d c.ont-.nplatiou fertile sourees ot n.spiration.
Th .n T u n V thonlhts inwardly all n,v fa.-n ties ai-e
Bt .Athene 1, an'd retake their ori.trhuil ty wlueh the niee -
su ?o net of s.>c-ietv, and the eonstramed tnetion ot men
■1 il rt H;.ok» to tmnslato into its langnage, Imt ot wln.-li
1 ,i;.t.i.,t ro+lections. For mvselt, who, tiom a su ivi^
choU', the stirring and noisy existeaoe 1^' ^^ ]^J ^^^^^
nomad virtuoso imposes on me, is that to xNhidi i uut c
Z^l.t antipathy ; thus, ahove all H.ave on^oy^^-^ ^ "^
i:Sr;^irK^W deprived of for - -ny yej^s^ the
T l\i- nil iov« '' not havino- to "live a concert —that is to
J:^ n , bS^obl^ i^ allxe^ hour, to bestow a certain
nn^ tvot (^ispirationfor the price of a few dollars, but
to « id one's self in the home-life of the family ; that is t
I V o have the heart warmed by the contact of good and
" ihble P UcV Kl to forget the^housand and one jealous-
?es a id in sJries to which the talented artist is exposed.
^ijt^~ j>^>'*r*=V ■.Ut*J'C«-'-'^'=W'"*
PONCE.
113
mt I fi^-'fravc
a 1.1 tlioVlV
hii'h brougbt
PoNCB.
^w of Mr. K.
itality which
lazticla. Hut
stuu'tii>n, and
n K. do the
hat charnrint?
^c'd, liave lol't
ite gives mcl
the thousand
enco to whicli
solitude I tind
)t' inspiration.
■ fat'ulties are
kich the ineea-
•ietion of men,
a I myself. I
in the thee of
utiful sunset I
vc'llous things,
;, hut of which
;, only the pale
from a sii-kly
•nsity to meUiu-
h the career of
lich I have the
Mijoyed at Pla-
nany years, the
rt" — that is to
lestow a certain
[ow dollars, hut
lily; that is to
icf of good and
and one jealous-
: is exposed.
At ria/.ne la I agam mot a .listingnished an.l clever man,
old Doctor l> whom I had ahva.ly cn.'oimtercd in mv
travels, and wiiom 1 loved at lirst sinhf lor his juvenile eii-
tlmsiasm tor j.oetry, and his enlii^hteiied taste ti.r the arts
J;re(iu..ntly some visitors came from Manat v, Areciho, ,„•
Irom some ot the neighhouring plantations." The Doctor
tlien recited to us some fragments of iJacine. I played ,„•
improvise.l according to the caprice of my .imagination;
Adeline an.l .Madam K. sang a duo.
1 have fonn.l at Donee the most Hatt.-ring and most h..s-
pi al.le reception, lu.ur concerts given at the theatre l.efore
u l.rilliant, an.litory, whose enthusiastic .lemonstrations res-
tihe.[ tiieir great taste for music, have more than iustitic.l
m my eyi's, the reputation that Donee enjoys. The ladies
are charmin,<r, and dress with the most retliied taste If I
Avas still at that happy peri...l of seventeen to twenty years
ot age, when the brilliant illusions of our youth .-arry ns
with rapi.l Hijrht on their variegated wi'nics, when one
glan.r, only (jt the love.l one, one grasp on ly^f the lian.l,
vonl.l have hlle.1 me with ecstasies, l .f., not doubt bu
hat I should have tallen .lesperately in love with many ol'
the charming cr.'atures wh.. gra.v.l the raiiires of boxes in
tJi.3 theatre at each one of my concerts. JJnt, alas' it is
a long time-thanks to cares and to business that" time
has thrown m my path-since my heart has be.'<.me dea.l-
ene.l, and feels no more these tender emoti.ms; so I am
content with adinirmg, without desiring more.
St. Pierhe.
Tlie last political events at T^arcelona (La C.Ve fernnA
are ot a nature to cure radically all artists who have the
insane Idea ..t making a tour there. There have arrive.l
here witbm tliese last few days a family of Italian sinu^ers,
named I.usati, escapcnl by miracle from the horrors of
xainme. thanks to the mtrepi.lity of a captain wh..se small
decked vessel was able m the night to slip between the
armed vessels wh.ch now close the mouth of the iJarcelona
Kiyer-the only and last entrance tlirough wl.i.h the un-
tortunate besieged hope to receive succour. The .U-tails
wlucli we hav.> gathered are nauseatiutc ; thev are .lyin.-
of hunger in the town; an.l infants and women are bein"
10* *
NOTES OF A PIASIST.
114
kUlcd in tlio Htroots l.v way of ynKtinu" by (lru..kon Holdu i-k
T A K' -an ...n.ulj.an-u-a.k-.l in his house nun-ortod
In .-.■!■ ami his fau.ily ior a mo„th on hm .. .by lK;as,
h, t va.l <.r sah. The Fmu-h consnl, homL; so nn-
r, . as to oi.on his window, ivcived u hall n. h s
h d'r. Ten or twelve i,rete,uU«rs tearn.j, o meccjs n.
the midst of everv exeess of a hl..ody anarchy, the tiag
nJs ot tlu^ unha,,y.count.y. What "^^^^^^v j--;^-;
the forei.'n artists who insist on gonitj to tn then In. k n
e S ni 1 repuhlies! The Busati linn, y have lo.md
re a mr,.ti*m worthy of the sentin.ents oi eontratern.tv,
h e , lthon,^h wo say it, oxists in the hearts o all ar .sh.
T .. r voles -ire of all People, the most hospitahle and tl e
n,^t 1 m pt .'iVel W. tirst concert of the JU.sat, took
^ce^ theatre. Madan.c liusati, a s<.i.rano ./o^./o
i^ed to X state of soprano ,//<;/fo, -'^--;;^ ^ J^,-
good style the eavatina of 'Attila' and o J^ ' ;^"' ;,^;^
It is too much to denumd more of a smger vn ho lias Dcui
the best A d-isa to Tasta in the best time of that inecmi-
"N<mn;u' >h.denK>iselle Busati -;g , -^^.^;^», ^
v.,W... What then, remams to lier .' Iheie rtniani
;;.; ttne bU ek e yes tilled with tire, which are not a slight
:::i^^J^n IbJ all which she ntiU 1-1<;;;- --^[^j^
Mr Busat; a baritone, an old caricuto ot the Itahan ui-tii
a^ir Place an<l lmp.vssario at Canjcas, has caused
amusement in the Duo of El Tureo in 'A tila
An opera troupe is veiy much wan ed-the island c
TTVinds it with might and main. The theatre o ht J icue
Tve^ handson.c^ The subsidy gmnted by the town ^.
fifteen hundred francs per month. It would then be possi-
b XrC^^ who understands his business, ^Mth some
piUlble siLgers, to make not a bad speculation by coming
"^tf=ilf ."i^Woeure a professor of tlie
piLo^a "CnsciLtioLs xmisiciau w1k> ^^l^J^^I^
Icconling to all probabilities, be .hould be able to make
ii!S**5i<> i«itl^->»«''*"--'"'
ken sold'urH.
lud (by iK'iiH,
hi'iiit; («• i"_'-
, hall ill liif^
to jiioci'H, ill
■liy, till' iVajr-
to awaits all
tlic'ir luck ill
liavo loll IK I
coiitVattTiiity,
I of all artists.
ital)k' and the
c JUisati took
)l)raiio xj'i><j<iij>
ovtTtlR'k'ss in
'Siuirtiniide.'
who has hot'ii
of that inc'oin-
; with all the
•s the eavatina
■di' by Verdi.
<t about to say
There remain
re not a slight
as an artiste.
3 Italian Oiiera
lis, has eaused
la.'
-the island de-
re of Ht. IMerre
»y the town is
I then be possi-
less, w ith some
tiou by coming
irofessor of the
,V8, on pressing
assure to him
ler annum, and,
le able to make
A riASlST WASTED,
11.-)
from Ins lessons eight to ten thousand friin.-s. A.s a matter
ot course this figure could not be attained without v.rv
great regularity an. I an assi.luoiis activitv. The expenses
111 t lis rountry in leading a ivuular life "..ouM not 'n. Ik-
yond three thousand to thirty-Hve hundred fnua'^s „(.,•
"'iiiuin it with this informati.K some I'arisian journal
could disembarrass me from the importunities of a .n.wd of
music-mad fathers, and save from the misiTics of tlu" i.ro-
tessorsh.p at Paris one of those innnmerabh. I'stimabjo
artists whom the crushing prestige of g.vat stars ,• [...uus
to obscurity m a great theatre, but wli.. takes a-ain hi.
rank m a more humble sphere, it woul.l confc-r a irivat favour
on them. I he professorshin at St. Pierre is represented by
Mr. Maurice / , the able leader of the orchestra, for-
merly at Amiens and at Strasburg; Sikler, a violiuist,
that the bills ot las hrst concerts, on his arrival at Marti-
nKpie, presented to us as first violin of the Kinu: <.f Naples-
larnain, n distinguished violoncellist, formerly secud'
prize ot the Conservatoire, now professor (.f the piano and
organist. '
You who know the ban et arriere-ban of the pianists
come to my aid Save me from these res,,ectable fiithers
adorned with charming daughters who drum, in spite of
eommon sense, the key-board from morinng to nio-lit, and
make me curse the day when I l,rought into the world the
' Lanamer,' the ' Banjo,' and all the other exotic products
whu-h my concerts liave brought in voir„e in America
Every one makes mo feel how much it was to be re.rrettc.l
that so many brilliant talents should be lost for want <.f •,
good director. Seriously, I have found amon<j manv youn-
Oreoe girls an organization such as more than oiie good
artiste might wish for. '^
I left .Slartini.pie with great regret. I have there also
devoted and too warm friendships, not to cost me a ^nvat
deal m leaving this good littk island, so charming i7. its
poverty, and whose hospitality had almost given me back
all the joys which I had not experienced since I left my
family. •>
A few days since 1 was present at a soiree given bv Mr
L-— -,. one of the most opulent Creoles. There w-is
music ; and I played upon a marvellously tine piano maim-
no
NOTES or A I'l.W/sT.
iiii'turc'l I.v luv illustrioiiK coiifiviv, ll.iiri ITiTZ ; t.iH
piano, wlii.li f^st iiitiH'ii tli(nisaii<l tVaiics, "m a pU'co o\
luniitmv -a vrritahlf rhif-<r<n(v,r (.1' rarisiim iirliistry ;
it is all of clionv, with iiioiildiiiirH of uill l)roii/t', (•liisillii
liUf a l.i'ion of Kronuiit Mfuri<r. Unt its I'xtc-rior, iK'aiitilnl
us it was, stnirk inc K-ss than its <iiialiiii's of souimI, its
mstallino liiiii.i.litv, and tl cinality of its roMn<lncss like
tliV voiw in all its rciiisfrrs. 1 coniiilinunt tlio illustnuus
pianist and nianufaftunT on liis work.
Mv licaltli is piod. I liavt- for sonic months invarialtly
n.ninaiMvd all mv U-ttors with the same i.hrasc- for the
imrpose of falsifvinir tlie ahstird storifs which have cuvu-
lated, and still circiilate, on my aecoiint since my illness at
Santia"-o -storii's which the newspapers of the I nited
States an<l of Ciiha hasten to publish with a .•iivat many
eommentaries. I wish to speak of my death. Ihis sad
event took place at Suntia.tr<' three months airo. I ^vas
.•arricd ott" in three davs hy a frightful attack ol Mi' 'k
V(,mit ; it is the newsiuiper of 'Savana la o'raiide who tells
it; l)Ut the'Uevuc do Villa Clara," without doubt better
iniormed, makes me succumb to an aneurism of the heart,
which I miieh prefer, the aneurism beiiii!; much mo'e
poetical than tlio vomit. 1 have written to these irentle-
iiun. assuring them that T am still alive, ancl reiiuestmi,'
them to pui.lish my letter when it reaches them. 1 be
newsi.aper ' Savana " la grande' has already been at tiic
expense of a lithoiiraph of the ^'(Icccasid and cirr to hi'
r,,/rrtl,</ (,'offsrhal//;' which it fiii/ishes gratis to its wih-
soribers. \W what means, in sueli a ease, can they make
im> return to life? As to the ' Koamio de \ illii Clara, it
had alri'adv announeed to its iniiiuTons subscribers a superb
eolonred engraving, and a romance composed by an amateur
of the town— the' whole entitled ' Funeral homage to t bo
bar.l ot the tropics.' I understood what I owed to those
who so much retrretted me, and consented to remain dead
for some davs. I will not say anything about tlie music
of the funeral romance of the amati'ur of Villa C'lara, but
the coloured eiiirravimr merits, from its oriixmulitv ot
de^i<'n and of colour, a verv jiarticular notice. 1 he subject
of if is allegorical. The genius of oitisic sluils tears over a
n
i:.\t,Ji'Ai/.\i.—(>\ .yy i>f.mii.
117
i Hit/.; tais
in a pu'tt' <>t
iiiii iiiliistiy ;
m/.c, cliisi'llcd
rior, iK'iiiitil'ul
of souikI, its
•(tiindiu'ss likt'
tliu illustriuuti
tlis inviiniilily
ilmisi' tor till'
•h liiivt- (ircu-
i' iiiv illiu'ss at
if till' I'liitt'd
a irri-at iiianv
itli'. This sa.l
rt ajit). I wart
tack of l>li' •!<
iikU'" who tells
t (loiil)t bi'ttcr
n of tlu' lifart,
g iinuli iiioi'e
) tlii'so ucittlo-
aiul iviiuc'stiiiu;
OS tlu'in. The
y hoeii at the
and ever to lie
litis to its sub-
can they make
Villii Clara,' it
ribers a sujieib
I by an ariiati'iir
homage to the
owed to those
to remain dead
bout the niusie
V'illa Clara, but
originulity of
L!0. 'riie sul))eet
icds tears over a
hriibn hjir inul msls ,i l,l,„-l; nil ,,rrr n bust, wliiili the
* Revue de \'illa Clara" says is mine. The in niiis nf mii>ic
in iinitfled in a troiiliadipur's robe and a paler, .m' tunic, with
II most aniiisintr efre-i, whi.h iv.alls that (.f the Christ of
the Cathedral of Ihirpis. which Christ, the sacristan as-
sur«Ml me, when I visited the cilllirh ill IS.VJ, /,„.v Ininnn,
tlish. iiiidhiiil linii J<iini(/ siriiiniii'iu/ ill till' riru: Thev tn.ik
it and carrii-d it in t,iiii,ij>/i to th'e convent of llie Kraiici^-
eans; /„i( it rscxfin/ Jhmi (liitur, und eaine to i>liiir H.-Jf in
till httlr rliiipi/ <,{• the Cathedral, to the riLiht on (iilcnn.'
where you can still so,, it, by the liel|.of'the tritlii..- sum'
ot two reals which the sacristan (Uinaiids to hliow Vi'.ii the
miraculous etHgy of the Savi.Mir, and t.. telh voii "its very
tmlbtiil history. I return t<. tlie enj.raviiit; of the ' Revue.'
I hi' genius of music lias Ids mouth o|peii, an<l ceeiiis piv-
l.ared to swallow a long serpent, which, after more mature
examination, I recognized to he a black rii)bon on which
are these words, which the ireiiius of music let fall in the
depths of his attliction : " Cn/,/ Jp„/„ I,, wini/ms n.,i
inviiliajf mslolins iirnliiitiiilnr I mean to ].reserve the
romance and llie engraving. Somy iiewsjiajiers of the
United States have ])ersisted, in s]iite of a letter address.d
by me to the Tiiited States Courier,' in believing me still
very ill. Notwitlistandiiig what they say, I was iievi r in
better healtli. '
I Imve suecooded at I'ort-au-Prinee and at tlie islands of
St. Tliomas and Porto Kieo. I explored these two latter
on liorsebaek, and have gone over them in every sense. I
liaye made some notes on wliat has appeared to me inter-
esting.
CHAPTER III.
New York, Februnry, 1802.
IlEnE T am again, after an alisenco of six years, once
more in Xew York! Six years foolisldy spent, tlirown to
the wind, as if life were infinite, and youth eternal; six
years, during wliieli I have roamed at random under the
a > rutin ro, \Mili \\n<"" ' l ,. , , -i ,•„■ ,„, Kiivitiir
tlu- Spanish Main. , '^,!'- ;:;;! j^ I h^i'h Sw.-ImIu -.U
tiv., six, or ..i;xht '•'•;♦'''*;;;;': ^,;''^;n.iousiv n.soiv..i
part-iiv iVo.n .lay t.. .lav 4"'\*". *'..;,, .^ .vho.v'tlu. piano
was still unknown hvtu.u-s..»^^^
,„vHn.^.rs l^'''l >'''»l'\''.-^^'*;*"\ A; J ./ a.-c- Mark cy^s,
whi.U v.iUMl th.^nsclvos wi h ; ;; , ;; i,i„.^ as the
h..in,unji aj^ain nu" ^•"- '^^^"; ,? l^^l fe'wo..k tlmvs, tor-
bii-a sin^s, as the tlowc J* »1,' ';^;;'" ^ ,,,vo.l mv heart
,.tr,.l of the l-:;;^;^^;;^^, ^^rlow^rwh.. hopes to luvr-
a.ul my purse ^V'^^J'^^ "';;";;. ,,,a. um the tieUls inwhieh
vest an hun.lre.leais 1. r cNer} ^l si-rui.tr-
Hoc-nt .louhloons are »»"'^^^^^: '"^ V^/;^ hu han.l-
,,i,,n,an.l my heart and V^''''^'.^^^' ^/Urv. Tlu-n,
,,roaip,lity, one tine .luv were f ^ V^'';^.^^^^^^^^ of mvself,
^n
A J/r>.v.s'77?ors rnoTit.
lll>
iir niy>*»'ir to
,,.it.>i>k lilt' —
ri-lfiif r<ii>f<»t'
'tori Ilia' of
,,!■ on IfllVlMJ?
I ri'iuiy yi'ii );
Dies" r*<<o<l
utitiir, ill '1'"*
isly lirrl'i't'ti'd
liiitr tin.' hotel
1, 1 (M'ossfd an
r islaritl, oi" oil
o BuiH'ortrtivcly
, Svv('ili-lu i>i>'l
loivrt ot' I'ani.
>,' to whom L
iivuHtopju'd for
\\\ir oil" my <U'-
ioiisly n-solvi'd
hi'ivtlu' i>iimo
lou with which
st attV'-tionrt'.), I
i-iTi' hlack c'yi'S,_
viT I sjioke of
II liviiiL? art the
rook Hows, for-
sowcd my hi'urt
lio hopes to har-
jtields in which
loves of si)riiii!;-
)r the husband-
by this double
, be dry. Tlicn,
d and "of myself,
neiO, I hastened
lisbed volcano of
like a cenobite,
t th;'t I had met
mo, followed mo
ovorywhere, aii(" lovi'd me with that absurd iiiid toiiehiiiir
constancy wlii.li one onlv mrels with in do<rs iiiid niihl-
nicn. .\lv_ Trie id, whose "lolly \v„h .piiet ainf inoUcnsive,
believed himself to be the ijimtdit ynii'is h, thr ,r,>rl>l. He
siitreivd, he sjiid, from a <.n,i!;aiific and inonstrons tooth iniid
if was by this only that I reco-nized tlmt he was insniie,
theoilKr s;i„ii>ti>nis heiiiir tbiiii(l aiiion^- too many individ-
uals to he considered as tin ainiorinal tinit of the human
mind) a monstrons tooth which periodiciilly increased,
and thicateiied to encroach ii|i(»n the whole jaw. Tor'
mcntcil with the d.'sire to reu-eiicrafe huinanitv,*he divided
his time between the study of .leiitistry, which he Iciriied
tor the pMi-pose of ( staiitly conibatinu; the timtastic pro-
L'ress of his molar, and a voluminous c(irrespoiidence which
he earned on with the I'op,., his hnfhn; and the Kmperor
ot the hiviich, his cousin, in whi<h he pleaded the interests
(•tiiiimanity, and called himself the I'rince of 'rhou-rht and
i;aise(l me to the diirnity of his illustrious friend and iM^ne-
tactor. In the midst of this intcll-vtual ruin one thin"-
onlv survived— his love for music, lie plaved upon the
violin, and, a sin.rular thin^-, althouuh insane, lie under-
Htood nothinif of the music of the fiiti'rel
IVrched upon the edjre of the crater, on the very top of
tho mountain, my cabin overlooked the whole (•oiintrv
J ho rock on which it was bnilt huntr over a pnvipiie
wiioso depths were conceali-d by cac'ti, convolviili. and
bamboos. The one who had preceded mo had surroiiiKh.d
this lower unround with a iiara|.et,aiid ha<l made of it a ter-
race, which was level with the bedroom. lie had rcpiested
to be buried there, and from my bed uL njirht I could see
by tluMiioonlijjht the white tombstone at a'few steps from
my window. Every evening: I moved mv piano upon
the terra.-e, and tliere, in view of the niost beautiful
scenery in the world, which was bathed by the serene and
limpid atmosphere of the tropics, I played, f,>r wt/.^./f' „/,„., .,
everythiiiiT that the scene which opened "before me insi)ired-J
and what a scene! Fi,s,nire to yourself a tri«rantic ami)lii-
theatre, sueli as an army of Titans mji^ht have carved on;
111 the mounhiins; to the rij^ht and left vir>,'in forests tilled
with wild and distant harmonies, which are like the mar
ofdkncc; before mo twenty leagues of e.juntry whose ma-do
^90 NOTES OF A riASIST.
anysclf; I was ^"^'^'^^ * J i-ri^ vl i gild, all things,
S^ir astll^ tl'^r nS Lk n| vagabond lit.,
strong and confident ^j^^ ^^etoniB of these
•It f a In t*civ lized and voluptuous race, cannot be
Zfof iLond-^coinoy, a Parisian idler, or an American
^'if ^ih'e'ckpthB of my conscience I heard sometimes a
In the *|4 1 "^ f> I > J ^ I to what I ought
voice which recalled inc lo « nat , ^,>t,irn to a
PREFER POETIC BARBARISM.
121
e transpavL'ncy
u of the sky;
niouiiiiiin, (lo-
,'r on the tr;reon
;ho town; iuul
, wlioso linu of
. a torrent of
leai)e(l with a
l; depths of the
n,' 'LaMarche
;orella e Caval-
)rks. I k't n»y
) in the conteni-
cnd, to whom I
Idish loqiuK'ity,
uvate humanity ._
1 these ruins of
r, strikes all its
J of that nature
tively, and my
vards others and
espair vanished,
g;ilds all things,
y vagahond life,
customs of these
strietly virtuous,
saw again those
I hrown hosoms,
ithout fearing the
tfuUy innnoral, I
e tropies, in the
s race, cannot he
r, or an American
}ard sometimes a
to what I ought
e to return to a
rmitted myself to
become hy the languor — the '_/)/r nlcnli' — morally 1k>-
numbed, so fur that tlie idea of again appearing before a
jiolislu'd audience si'eiiu'd to me, very honestly, absurd.
For what gooil V I said to myself. And besides it is too
late: and I continued to live, to sleep, to awaken, to run
over the savamias on horseback, to listen to the female
l)arrots eoquet in the guava-trees at sunrise, to the crickets
chirp in the tit'lds of sugar-eane at night-fall, to smoke my
cigar, to drink my eottee, to cradle myself in my luiin-
mock^Hnally, to enjoy all the jileasurcs bevoiid which the
'Guogiro' sees only death, or, what is still worse, the
feverish agitation of northern society. Here is the secret of
the atroi)hy of the new Spanish colonies, (lo then and
talk of stocks, of credit fonder, of exchange, to that
sybarite, king of the savanna; who can live tlie whole
year on exquisite bananas, on savory cocoa which he has
not had the trouble to plant ; who smokes the best tobacco in
the world ; who replaces the horse of yesterday by a better
chosen in the first 'Caballada' that he meets with ; who,
clothed with his linen drawers, sees the seasons succeed
each other with a iJerjtetual summer; and who in the
evening, under the palm-trees, tinds beautifid, dreamy
girls imi)atient to bestow their love on him — who shall
know how to murmur in his ears these three words,
eternally beautiful, " Yo te quiero" (I love thee).
The moralists, I well know, condemn all this ; and they
are right. But poetry is often in antagonism with virtue ;
and now that I am shivering under the icy wind and gray
sky of the Xorth, that I hear discussions on Erie, Trairfe
du Ciiieu, Harlem, and Cumberland, that I reail in the
news[tapers the lists of dead and wounded, the devastation
of incendiaries, the abductions and assassinations which
are committed on both sides under the name of retaliation,
I find myself excusing the derai-savages of the savannas
who prefer their poetic barbarism to our barbarous pro-
gress.
Recalled suddenly to real life by a great grief, I wished
to break all tlie ties that bound me to these six years that
are lost.
It was at this period that Strakoscli wrotr to mo, offer-
ing me an engagement for a round of concerts in the United
*«*'*'
r
122
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
^t..to^ I ho^Uatcd an instant, oast a last ^trlan.o at the
Kates, i nisuan-<i «i ,i,.,>Mni was Hi isliotl —
l.ast,travo a sV^rh, an.l si-nnl. ^ j r. *; ^sa va-o vcnith
1 was savo.1 ; l.nt w ho sha s^n i ^^^ ^ ^ '!;;,, f,, are
an<l l-oosy 1-<V"S "'ti.^^uv uttcT^lS Sh,.t then, up
1,v naturo vagabonds; the-) .iu ''; "J "^ ^ ,,.i„j..s are
New Yokk, February 15, 18G2.
Mv first oom-ert at Xow York, aftor fs. v«.-» cf aW"«.
tJk i.lu.o ..„ the o:evc.nth. 1 I'^'J" '«;;;, ,„^ /^
eiifliiiiil
hi-h position which ho ocrnpias. ll^^^J'^r^ •''' \vom
±i%r^s^tiS^^^^^
a^ c- Wuo Ilo admires and n.ulerstands he gj-'* ^
( .u uitheelassics);huthe does not eone^ude t. Mn n.
„t !,...« not»l.n,|r liW «houl,lor« on l.oarmg " ' ' • "^ '"
';;,"m'„, ,„ ,.„,„.,^.|..n, ho i^-jjrr'uT'i ;;•(!;: i-vc-r-i
MY REAPPEAHASrE.
123
lliUK'o at the
as Hiislit-'tl —
iilva.tro youth
11(1 vouth aro
Shut them up
lit wuigs are
{otrulato their
11(1 holihiess —
icjverieiice, a'ld
irity of talent.
,runry 15, 18G2.
arri of al)senee,
ly. I felt too
ilid not t(^ ho
idienee all ti»o
frieutls, who,
Aorth's Uall in
ained nio and
iirhe de Nuit'
Hised. Kic'hanl
the piano, who
kship, had lent
ic Tell' and my
ave visited the
lit merits more
tV eont^eientious
lhI and modest
out etfort at the
taste and the
rvod him from
instrument of
the great dead
ic'lude from this
alent. He does
ho is eomiielled
iiprehi'nds Baeh,
•iiio- the name of
a (jciifli'inin).
avinjr diseovered
niy return from
Europe in 18o3 took i)]ace on the Jlfh of F,f>r>iar>/,(]vc\i\ri\
to postpone my mippt-aranee forsonu' (lavs so that it miulit
take j.lace on the IJf/t »/ FiIiviki,-;/, i.W.'-a niciiioralile
eoincKK'iice of whieh the pnhlic (whom it did not interest
the least in the world) was informed tliroiii>i' all tlie news-
papers. A (juestiou l»y many of my frit'iids: " MV-y do
you snjisuch thinfjs in i/oitr aiivcrflscwrhtx.' W/n/ ih i/mi
not sfri/a' out surh (tin/)(f-'"us epithets in ijniw /ifin-nn/s /"'
Alas! Are you ignorant tluit the artist" is merchandise
which the impressario has purchased, tlie value of whidi
he enhances as he chooses? You mii-ht as well reproach
certain ]iseudo-gold mhie eomi)anies for announciiii!; divi-
dends which they will never pay, as to render aif artist
responsil.le for the lures of his contractor. A jioor old
negress heeomes, in the hands of the Jupiter of museums
(Harnum), the nurse of AVashiugton. Whv, then, do you
thmk you should he astonished at the ma<riiificeut titles
wliich are coupled with my name?
The artist, once thus sold, lieloiiffs no lontrer to liimself,
hut heeomes the pro])erty of tlie impressario, who en-
deavours as he sees lit to heighten his value. His friends
help him, and shout ihat he is of good qualitv; his eiu'mies
that he is trumpery, and worth nothinir. Tlie impressario
heing vulnerahle only through the i)Ocket, that i.^, through
the artists whom he cries up, it is u])on the latter thiit tTie
hlows fall ; like coachmen who, every time they meet ilie
liorses of their rivals whom they hate, strike them Avith
their wliips, so it is upon us that the critics, who liave
quarrelled with the impressario, revenge themselves.
Thus far the press of the United States have treated mo
with great kindness, with the exception of two newspaper
writers, one of wlu^m is an old minister, who does not
understand music, and the other an ohscure writer, wJio
uses his iien in the service of his pei-sonal antipathies. If
they had used the one-hundredth part of the efforts which
they have employed to prove that I am a fool, in ac<iuiriii<r,
the cue a knowledge of the art of which he pretends to he
a luminary, and the other in correcting one or two pieces
for the piano which he has puhlished, they miirht have
succee<le(l in arriving at an honest mediocrity, ijisti?ad of
remaining malicious uohodies.
124
SOTES OF A /'/.l.ViSr.
. • V >«' York with the winio kiii<hios» ; time
^,,,1 ,,,t oha.i.-i'a the «.M -> !'l .»^ f( ^'tractors n.u;aiiu..l
...tcniatlc m-wm <;^,;-;^. '\j;ii;;lU;:\:i. sounsh littU.
the same. -^"- V* ''" " ,;^u i.e ,,„„rs cut every wi-ek
i;::,:';i, ^-";:AX:^tJ: jm...„ ..« ..„ ..-
,„,„,„-;g ,„ ,1„ Nvith '!'';.■'''",''•;, Xn'liave just imUUhfl,
«i.p- '•^'<'^'>;'''';';'?,ISrc r".ai';y ana ,he •<;:,.»
nil my <-.nKvrts. '■'"'""■, V"; .,„.,;., 'i „„,,,os of 'M"r-
C,.-,„ll,»; «,-o "lYy-,-'"' t,e5 il; o, ,„/ .v.;!k,.,i..n»
inmvs Iv^lieiis, 1 am lea oy J^i i,,,„vm thui"s. When, m
,., ,,,.as.ire the emptme.^ of h«g^^^^^^^^ j ^^^^.^ u«ft
1S.>^, I returned to the *- "\tt f 7 , ,nv reimtation,
elove;. year, hetbre (at ^^^j" ^^ .^.i^'f^ i.IS;! the Atlan-
whoUv ran^nm, ha<l not, » '"^ ^ ^l^'-'^^j .,,, i,^ IMciuin, in
tio. 'rwo c»r three li^l'Hhva eo, ot >, M^^' ^ - ^^^^ .,
Italy, in France, ^l--;^;;^^ w 'no '.^J u^'lhnated in
name; hut this na.ne, so :young, ^^.-^f '\. J^, ^.,, .^ ,u,eess,
Ameri.a. My ^ :::i:^^^ l:ZX.\^ of the expenses.
hutthereeeii.H(luln«>ta mn^^^^^^ ^ ^.,^^^,^^. ^,^ ^|^^
The secona, ^J^i^^" ^.\^?^ !* ; ,,r hun red dollars. The ex-
two eon.-erts 1 lost V'^^V nie with that trooa-nutured
ocllent Wallaee luul otte re mt it i t^ ^ . ^^^^ ^^_
c4iestra,anailomnan,tntauim read v to ohligo me,
whom at all times I ^'^ve ov er oun ea > ^^ J^ ^^^.^
played with me two P^^';;'«« « /^;^,,^^^ I^^^^ a<>llars. It was a
,,noerts t then lost^twentj-four luMiaa^^ ^^.^ ^^ ^^^
aeeided failnr. ^J^XiS "i^?!^^ thousand dollars
onpi!reinenttora}tai,onuu ^ ^^.^ prejudices
and my ^'M*^^'^«%f^^'^' ^t/vv^xom he ohstinately insisted
(,,;„.t) aP^-t^l^^;;;:,'^^;;;^^^^ beasts, l refused,
in seeing only a ^'"* "f"V ^ew Orleans, my native city.
AVe left, my tather and I, for ^ew ^^ -^ ^^ that
Mv fellow-citizens re^-«^^'*-^^\."f " *' Kceived the sane-
time the only American ar^t who had vec. ^^^^_^^^^
tion of tlu. ^^^^^^tZ^MA. enthusiasrn
assistino;, I was recei ed v^^it "i a ^ ^ ^ ^ I deserved
DEATH OF FATHER.
125
diulnoss; tunc
•(.rt\umti'ly, the
ctors rvuiaiiu'tl
irt sourish littlo
lit every wi'ek
brtuiiatcly, has
just jiuljlislu'd,
are encored at
aud the '())'>«
)ro/;os of 'Mur-
luy rei-oUeetious
iisxs. When, in
■hU'h T had left
. mv reiiutation,
ossed the Atlan-
i in Belp;iuni, in
liad givl'u me a
ot aa'liiuated in
k was a sueeess,
f of the expenses.
a tiaseo; in the
\oUars. The ex-
liat good-natured
, conduet the or-
iRcientiouBpianist,
idy to ohlige me,
)s. In these two
dollars. It was a
c the offer of an
y thousand dollars
ad his prejudices
ihstinately insisted
beasts. I refused,
ns, my native city.
ph. I was at that
received the sane-
national self-love
rihahle enthusiasm
hecause I deserved
ise I was first cele-
hrnted in Paris under the name of the 'Pianiste coni))ositeur
Louisianais.' From my birth I had always \'\\vi\ in atHii-
(.1, re— thanks to the successful siicculations cnti'rcd into l>y
my tather. Certain of I)eing altle to rely upon him, [
quietly ])ermilted myself to follow those pursuits in wliich
I anticipated only pleasure aixl enjoyment. Poorly pre-
]»ared for the realities of American life by my long sojourn
in the factitious and enervating atmosphere oi" I'sirisian
salons, where 1 easily discounted the success wliicli iny
youth, my iudependeui position, the education which 1 had
received, and a certain originality in the coui])ositioMs which
1 had already iiublished, partly justified, 1 found myself
taken unawares, when one day, constrained by necess'*^y
and the death of my father, hastened by a series of financial
disasters, I foinid myself witliout other resources than my
talents to enable me to perform the sacred duties lH'(|ueathed
to me by him. I was obliged to pay his debts, which my
concerts at Xew Orleans had already in part lighti'ued the
weight of, and to sustain in I'aris a numerous finiiily, my
mother and six brothers and sisters. Of all misery, the
saihlesf is not that which betrays itself by its rags. I'overty
in a l)lack coat, tliat poverty whicli, to save appearances,
smiles, with death at the lieart, is certainly the most
poignant; then I under.*tood it. Nevertheless, my brilliant
success in Europe was too recent for me not to perceive a
near and easy escape from my sad troubles. I believed
success still })ossil)le. I then undertook a tour in Kew
En<>land. At Poston my first receipts exceeded one hundri'd
dollars; at tlie second concert I made forty-nine dollars.
I have not related that it was an hour before commencing
a concert at Jioston, tliat a despatch from one of my uncles
apprised me that my father was in the pangs of <k'ath, ami
had just blessed me — singular and touching wandering of
his great intelligence at the moment of liis dissolution — in
seven languages, which he si)oke admirably. 1 cannot de-
scribe to you my despair, but let those who comprehend it
add to it the terrible necessity of appearing in )(ul)lie at
such a moment. I might have \i\\\ off" the I'oncert, but the
ex]>enses had been incurred; the least delay augmented my
loss. I thought of those to whom I had become the onl}'
); I drove back my despair, and played! I do not
prop;
11^
126
NOTES OF A PI Ay 1ST.
"■'r:\:;:.ll;;m "rS E,«lan,l (wIkto, I „,„ ,u,x\<.us to
.,.V« o •« r. iLr I .V.u„a rt;e moj;t .nuputlK-.,.-^ m.,.
W.ixtV, lunuln-a dolUu-s in a -v -on ta
Tlu'n it w.L that I loooived a letter from " '^;, IJ^/*^^^
Y i.i\ia;n^ , >^"' " , »Ji,n nviiortod mo to return to 1 aris,
!"•■'?';■'! l'''''"1tt r,Snl- J ™e to ^mm to Paris, «Vs.
^lioutrlit it hirt
known to tlif
liu'L'd. I neoil
lipi'iinini-o, had
niaUfontinuwl
ting the grout
nu him. An-
igo to say that
iuy father, hut
i ot' receiving a
to (hi with the
vhich was more
am anxious to
upathetie reeep-
t's. A. S., in a
ly 'kid gloves;'
ny FreiK'h man-
hu'h there were
ions account, in
[ that mine was
loise that I drew
e it as it may, I
hs.
lad heen the ob-
oi-dis<tvt musical
lerit, undeceived,
my own eountry-
iug for the wants
e\v York,
irge sale in Paris,
n one of my old
old Countess de
lady of honour to
o return to Paris,
IV iH'int!; soon aii-
withheld through
urn to Paris, iirst
hat I had not suc-
lich at this epoch
, and which from
LAST HOPE.
127
the exaggerated accoiuits of the money which dciuiy Li»id
liad made tlu-re, rendered my ill success njore strikiiiir.
I had composed a lew pieces, one of them of a luclaMclinly
character, and with whicli was comicctcd a touching epi-
sode of my Journey to Santiago do Cuba, that soomed to mt;
to nnito the conditions re(piisite for pojtularity. A pub-
lisher purchased it from me t()r iifty dollars, advisinn' me
to endeavour to copy the style of the pianist (iocki'l,()f
whom a certain i)iece — how 1 do not know — had just ob-
tained a great run.
At liist one day I played some of my compositions to
Mr. Jlali, the pubjisher. "Why do you not give a concert
to make them known V" he saicl to me. "Ma foi," 1 an-
swered him, "it is a luxury that my means no loiiixt'r pi-r-
mit me!" "Bull! i will pay you one hundred dollars for
a piano concert oidy at Dodsworth's Koomis."
Eight days ufter I played in this snmll hall (whoso pro-
portions are such that 1 should never wish to see them
exceeded, as they are those that make the i»uino heurd ud-
vuntugoously before a select audience) my new pieces, ' Lo
Banjo,' the ' Marche de Xuit,' the SJota Aragonesa,' and ' Le
Chant du Solihit.' Its success surpassed my most brilliant
exi)ectations. During //rt> months I continued, without in-
terrui)tion, a series of weekly concerts for the i)iano only,
in the same place, without being forsaken by the public
favour. 'Le Banjo' and 'La Marche,' and many other
l>ieces purchased by Hull, wore jmblished and sold"\virh a
rapidity which left no doubt as to the final result of Hall's
speculation, and which time has only corroborated. Every-
body knows of the enormous edition which was jaiblished
of 'Banjo,' and 'Marche de Nuit.' I then concluded a con-
tract which assured to Hall the exclusive property in all
my compositions for the United States. As IhUI wished to
possess my works anterior to those which he had just pub-
lished, and having faith in my talent as a composer, ho
addressed the publisher of the melancholy piece of which I
have already spoken, for the purpose of jiurchusing it.
"Willingly," was the reply; "it does not sell at ull; ](uy
me the fifty dollurs which it bus cost me, and it is yours."'
Tliis little ideco wus 'Last Hope,' of which more thun
thirty rtive thousand copies have been published in America,
r
^^^ j;on:s OF A riAsrsT.
„:, ,v„u.i, .n, r-'"<-';y-^ - ;!;^:*l;:';;;:;;:";rwS
st,u..l in most luva <.t *''^'^"; •••''uVt,„,,,,l to-.lay t.. NfW
,,,, i,un.as..i . th "^y ;;i:;;'^^;^,, ^ "n m"-^*^^-"*-^'^*'^
York, after an aljsonro .1 mx > ^'. Vovcn-c.l luysclf l.v ro-
I have eon-inere.! m.l. > ^ ^ ;;^^..,. , •„ five lum-
fusi.ig all those wl>" '^H'"*^ / , ^, "fi,,. one l.icee only. One
.Ueafanother one thonsan. ' ' ^ ^l^^^;,! the ' Last lloi-e'
publisher, the one who »' f' :J \\ ,,,, i have n.. LnMulun>\
[a ^et.tlen.an, I annst ^Yl ' > n ' Mun.uuvs Iv.liens.
U-ere.lnKM.neth..nsan d a^^^ ^^.^,^ the thirty
Thissun»n>aa.Mnesnii^e m n.n.^^^^^^_^^^
dollars, at wliuji ^u-e I ';^^; «^^^^^^^^ ,., ,„, to ^ive a proo
years before. U 1^'^' \ ^ ^..H 1 i^ ^N-^th ^vhonl n»y ."ontraet
if n.y .L^ratitude ^^ ^^ -. V'^ ;,:^^ ,,,, Koliens,' 'l^isto-
had cxi/iml. I «^^>;^ ; ! ^^,Uo ' lua many ..tber i>ays
^:^ S'urS ^Z^n. k a new contract, wluch 1
was ready to sign.
Kew York, F.-Lninry, 1BC.J.
.Vhat astonishes n.o is to a^n ii.^ New York, in 18.2,
at least as brilliant as ^yl'^^'l^^^, ^ \ !,. ,o opinionate.! an
The majority ..f ^J^''^'^" ^ '.Jha it is inlpossible, at a
aoeount of the events of ^"^ ;'*^/ '^l ,tatc of the country,
distance, to form an exa^l-^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^,^^. ,,,^,,^,.^,, „,,
For a year I ^^^^ « tor «"'' /"''^•"'^^ /'"•'",'"■' ""''
closed; that the i*;^.'''') •:'',' /w;/.,/..; thnt thr1nror>j<m
'i
FOliEIGX ir.SORA \(K.
.lu>r,artiTn run
. jiiiK'unt wliiih
loiiiofiiiyluiirt
Hall, who first
, iintl t'l'oiii that
„ic to that fain-
rs who, wlu'U I
;ly to tlisfouniiic
I'to-diiy to Nyw
ii jiosition whiil
>.,l myself hy ro-
\v\\ OIK' live hun-
i i.icee only. ^^I'c
I the 'Last Hope
liave no irnulsrc),
lunuures Kollenrt.
t with the thirty
linniy pieces some
me t(> iiive a proof
,vhom mv contract
, K, .liens,' M'asto-
nanv other pieces,
V contract, which i
foRK, F.'l.rnavy, 1»C2.
N^ow York, in l^^'j^,
the South in 1H.')7.
; so opinionated an
t 18 impossihle, at a
tate of the country,
hat the theatres mr
nite fortinie.'i are ex-
ur; that theterrori.^m
in r('i>at,ti<-ai}!*; that
near haviivii a duel
this fact, which was
bands of ioeemUarics
)re a jnihllc who mint
120
it,^ tl .It 1 ha. (Ici.U.l to return to Now ^•o,•l^ and d
ti.n.d. n.y national pride di.l not ponnit nu- o h l.' i"
;o?;.:;;r]i;"'^'''' ^ a.:)<now].d.e, hLtween ours.Iv':,
tl d.t he san.e ti.mg n.ysolf. Lot no one tax n.e w .1
^aM^emtion. .1 have stid u newspapc-r in n.v p..,^.
inch a <-orrospondent writes fron. the l-ju cd S.a
th t the. depm,ation of our money is such that he has ,
a workman dym.i. with luu.uer, otiW a !■ ' ;■ o, ! d | ,,
paper to ohtan. a j-iec-e of 'hiva.!. T' unhe • ttC
veracons correspondents increased in ,|.e C-t i.t n^
^ar.t; the m,.re fiho.d are jealous <.nt' !^,'S' 7*
..;.7 ;. theory f,,t if is a Hopi,;' ^aid a eeleh.-ate. J a o
' to n.e. Lniortunate.lyH.r the a.lversari.s o f d ,.
at.cpnncipkM lie tluuir ,« far neems ,„,ssil.k. wint. v ,•
iK-y may ,Io. The truth, carefully .iftcJ hv tic: or s f
le.r press reaches sometimes the people hv 'm ii v
Kloams, whu-h sets them to thinking. U.ie mde i'^. , Is
that under such conditions, they have ..rnfi e >
douds wlneh may liave ohscm-ed .Jur jUti wLc ^ .4
vvhidijhey have uvaile.l themseh J of as an i,^:,i;i *i:i:l
.^ofJl^S^^^^^
^•e,o;ners remain who arc relatively instructed o, tl e "Z
of tlK, three or four of the greatest nations of t e .1
iUnanam 18.)4, it one mio;ht venture in the environs of
St. Louis wi hout fear of heing attacked hv th,. . ian<
I or many, the country remain? the same as it wa C
U.ateauhriami wrote 'Les Xatehez,' an.l saw par ouet '
o^ the Aleseliacebe (Mississijipi)
\ew Vn.^L '' °^'^ !"^"'*^;J ^^''^^"^"'^ 1>5«'"«^- ^vho resides in
^ew \ork, wrote from Paris to his son some years since
Non:s OF A riASisr.
\'V)
•„/ H4<.>, \? Uaruuni was not .mc - .^.,, ;,, ,, few
,,,n,H from li'rl''''^^ ''' \ '' ,, t imi'o^'^il.U- ; l>nt J .lo
i...> ulHunl thai It apiK .; " ;\,,,,^,„a which L nm-
""^ '»'l-''''•^%'•^■^^''' -i; ,U is n ntolli..-..t ..lass ^vh.. r.a.l
not i.i-ovc. 'llH--" ••;•'*" '\, '.'"•„ not lio most nmiuTous,
„orthat vvhu-h A\*^^ !" V '^ .,-„,,us mind, who uhvayK
l''-'"^*'"'"'"'"' ''"' f i/, . u-or of tho West o.ily an
ti.hts for i.poKMvss sees m tlH ,,,,,v/.v7.>..i ..r.</r..
l„ro;r „ss<>.<sn,,-Aud m '! I f.' !^^, u ]' Aineri.iuo est un rays
From 'ralU.yran.U;vho '^^ ' ^ ^''^J'^^^. . .. Amcrira is a rouu-
clc saU.s coehons c-t .U- j. o o^^ *^ - ^^ ^ /immorman, the
trv of dirty ho.i^s a.ul i t^ h^-h ^'ousc-rvatouv,
"VAmeriHUo >' ^'^^ ,\;i^ , , / ,f Htcam-enpncs-'), there is
(^'Amonca was oi.U a < ^^^»J j^ -^j^-,, ^^.^tv spite ui-on the
;..taueiui.K.,>t.uauwho u notH^^^
Americans .» V'^'^'^Hw Uis h i. pil m lH4V.vas appomte.!
I, i,,,it ^l""''r""''.^'Tro the « me bench as Zimmerman
i,/-l84U to sit as ^ff^ Xtf;^ Conservatoire. .
at the exhihxtum \^[ ! 'f^^ l!'"re inn.iense lacmu. in eor-
There is no .louht th.tt tlK c ai ....prociation ot the
/.-/-(X r'/•^s 1^ "'^r i.niA 1 usurped phice. The wheels
like parasites ^^lue^^ c,eeu a-i^^U^^^ ^^^^ ^^^.^^ , ^o
of our jjrovernmeut ^'^^^^^^^ ^y perhaps, Avorship a
.n-ate ui^on the ear ^<>"^f "^^^j. .',^,i\{o not often enough
httle too muc-h the K^^^l^" ,\f ^.{^" « ' thought. Each ot
kill the fatted calf to ioivst tho ^l^^* ^^ ^\^,^^^^ ^tlier
,, think ourse ves l^^^^^ -^ '^^^^^^^^^^^
man-an excellent i'^^thwmi ^ ^own to our owmi
which often k>ads "« ^^ w^h to ^^
level those to whose level anc caim „,pertain to all
kults happi^ are n^na u>, ^^-^^^^Sce'L heautiful
f!
y ('(irrini un by
isiii iiskt'd 1110,
■at Htati'><nHMi '.
,w that all thirt
,il.U-; but J tl*»
,1 whiili I niu-
class ^vh() n'Utl
iiost nvniuTous,
o'wvf urt jnstiir.
1,1, who always
to West only an
nvHlzcd saratjcx.
pie ost un pays
n'l-ica is a foun-
iinnncrnian, the
ri C'onsorvatouv,
Inu; me, because
lines k vapeur"
Kjrines"), tliere is
fv s\)ite iqion the
p'laee ti) say that
rl,\vas apliointed
11 as Zimmernuui
atoire.
use laeunic in eer-
)prei'iati()n of the
1,1 we trei'.t them
laoe. The wheels
•s, too new not to
jrhaps, Avorship a
11, )t often enough
thought. Each of
3r) than any other
rs self-respect, hut
down to our own
tain. These little
loy appertain to all
like the heautiful
ho hite the nurse's
liiuasoi.i. jgi
Itreast and whom the exiiheiance of health sojiictiincs nii-
ders tiirhident.
I htiird Ihitriioli last niirht in '.Marta.' This fav,.iirife
tenor has still his pretty voir,-, and lias pr,'s,'rved, notwitli-
standing the progress of uii n,i/M>i,/><,ii,/ which annovs him,
the anstocratie elegance which, with liis tiii,> Imir/and his
handsoiiie winte neck, have given him so much success with
the ladies. Notwithstanding the defcts wlii,li his detrac-
tors reproach him with, he is an artist whom 1 admire
above all singers, who arc all, for the most part, iiiicoiith. I le
understands music, and knows how to Jiidtrf of a miisha!
work. His enemies will he much astoiiishe.l to learn that
ho knows by heart 'Hummers Concerto' in A //»//*<,/•, which
he studied when, (|uile a child, h,- fhouglit of becoming a
luanist, and which he still plays in a'charmiiiir manner!
lie knows how to sing, and if it were ii,.t for Jiis fear of
the i.iiblic, which nara.yzes all Ids powers, he would be
classed among the best singers of the age. besides, he is
careful of his toilet, which, among artists, is one of the
rarest (pialitics, and which I place among the most brilliant
of those ].ossessed by Urignoli. I kni'w him in lS4i>, at
Paris, at the period when, still tmite yoiiiiir, he made his
(li'fjut under the amorous a'gis of the beiiutifiil Afadam It.
-, the poor maniac,
y\y comi)aiiion in the desert of M-
has followed me to Xew York. He is wild in "the midst Of
the bustle of a great city. He is an excellent man, a
striking examj)le of the part which circumstances have in
the formation of what is called a man of srcnius. He is a
great man spoiled. The stuff was in him; but tate had
willed otherwise. T?orn at (iuadaloupe of parents, one of
whom was a iiegre.ss, the other a European, his taste for
music developed itself at an early age. He plaved on the
violin when only eight years old,^uld learned ahnie to i.lav
the piano. lie wrote vei-ses, read Voltaire, Rousseau, anil
the philosophers, and had learned h's alphabet alone. J hit,
unfortunately for him, it was lieftire 1848. Slavery still
existed in the French colony, and he soon learned tlnit the
sphere in Avhidi he nust move became more contracted on
account of the prejudices of caste, as soon as ho endeavoured
to become free.
132
IfOTES or A PIASI'^T.
%
CTIAPTKR IV.
CnirAoo, April 14.
The corps of C.-noml A\ »''»'.^ ' '"' »'. . ,.Uv of Chi.aoo
is alnuHt .... u U.v.l with J.akc M'^^ •'f ' ^^ ^ ',,1^ „,• ^i,,
,„o„t live yours a,,... 1" '-' 'I^Vi;) '' I . 'l' vholc of
Milwaukee (State of WiBConsin), April 15, 18G2.
I havo^u.t seen, -v^^ ^1^ J);: i:I;;;;;;^Ai:w^^^n;^
troplo-t-«'eT-h^\^ aV ^^^^ the Day.' Tlu«
na-iua-koe; ui i.ngli"n, >^'^^ iw.,.amo celct rated by
eluof, who conmmncea the ^^^^^'.^^^^^Jf, '' (si^ee thi.
his au.luc-ity, his astuteness, and his <^ ^^^ ' ^ ^. 3^1^,,,,^-
was written, the Sioux have f J"-?^ ^ ^\^^/^ [ ^u^^^i of the
shot, and forty of their chiets hung. Hit tiopi y
LXIilAX /lAXXKR.
laa
irAoo, April 14.
V lust i'V(>liili,i:.
itv 111" Clii'iifi'**
1(1 Wllrt tl(M'<K'il
(' viirds of tlio
'I'Ir. Avholt' of
t'crt. This has
niK'hiiK'H which
ithotit shiikiii^
luTtiiios ttf nine
iX storii'S hiiih,
hahitiiiits heiiijj;
ill loiiviiiu; thi'
tivin the level of
a dozen. The
her stori'hoiises
Liid -five nnUion
liehiiran will he
iim vessels laden
ir the seaeoast.
n), April 15, 1P62.
) of a tinman, a
or of Ma-na-wau-
the Day.' ThiH
,ic celehrated h^'
L'lty. (Hint'O this
State of Minne-
i hundred of the
of a warrior who
i?^», ovd ci(/ht(cn
• lieinL'shave hecn
Che trophy I have
spoken (>f is a loiiir hoK-, tenninuted hy u little rinjr, which
iiialxTs it rcr-fiiildcii hiittfi'tly lief ; over flici'iiiLr is >tri'tilir(l,
like a tandiniu'iiie, the skin of the neck, td' the heml i.il
till- scalh, in liiet— of another eliiit' ulmMi Ma-nu-waii-na-
nia-kee killed in hattli'. The hair of tliK vanipiishrd, vcrv
loMir. and Mack as a <'rn\v, liiinti' from the rintr over the
jMilc like the Tnrki-*h standards. The wind, Hhakinir these
ionir locks, caMM'd the hundreds of rinirs of c(i|i|icr and sil-
ver, ami the eaufli' feathers attachi'd to tlu'in, to /)inule in a
verv>inister laaniier. K\ery rinir indicates an enemy killed
ami scaliied hy Ma-na-waii-na-iua-kee. What is friirhtlul
to hehold, are the ears, the nostrils, and the trapin-r holes
of the eyes on this human skin, tla," wrons^' side of which is
eovered with red and hrilliant resin, which adds to the
liorror of this hloody spoil. I had a irreat desire to pur-
chase it, hut [ was asked ei-fhteen hundred francs for it —
three hundix'tl ami sixtv .iollars.
Milwaukee is one of thono WoMfeni towns of tlie United
States which,_l)orn hut vesterday, an hiiilt as l>y eiicliant-
luent. ['riiH'ljially pi'opled hy (Jerinans (in a popidiition of
sixty thousand siails, they numher forty-iivo thousand), it
promises— thanks to the industry of this I'cononiicjd, laho-
rious, and industrio is race ^t(l hecomt' one of the most
tlourishinu depots for ^rain in the West.
It already possesses a Philharinoiiic Society, a theatre, a
concert hall, and a matrinliceiit hotel. Do not fori^et that
we are one thousand miles i'rom Xew York, and veT'v close
to the Indian territories. The cook of the hotel is a Rorde-
lais. The tfood man is wild w'th Joy since our arrival.
lie had not spoken French for ten vears. Ih' had heard
me, it appears, on my passai^e from Jjordeaux in 1S."»2, and
ahsohitely insisted on triviiii-- me a dinner, to which I invited
my_travellin>i; eoinpanions— Ih-iirnoli, the tenor; Susini, the
haritonc; and the Maestro-Muzzio, the frieial and i.ujiil of
Verdi. If you have ever heeii at Bordeaux, you must have
retained tlie rememhrance that they know hmvtoeat there,
and that the rrppcs a r/iiiil<',inu\ the roi/nmis an brtirrc fm/.^
deserve to partake of the jz:lory of the' Chateau Lalitto aial
Saint Emilion. I must add that our ijood IJordelais, true
artist as he is, made it a point of honour, and I declare that
the sabnid which he served up to us were all simply incom-
1a
J
134
NOTES OF A FIAMST.
paral.lo. ^Vo have invito.l him (the i-ropriotor cook) .nd
his tiiinily to our i-omvrU. ^ -^ wM-apiug
us from these amateur.^ of ^//Z ' '.J, ^^Vof our planet 'i
vessels.
April 18.
At one of the stations, gj.in. ^-^^f::^^^
^vo foun.1 a convoy of wounded * ^" /\^^ J^^ ^f/ ^, ,,aies
l,uv^^ Landing. It is a heart-renc^ \\'^, ' fMi-. N Uitingales'
of the vlaee are nursnig them. Ihe Mi -^W o
multiply here.
April 19.
Yesterdav the ice finally hroke in .^J^e ^fj^^^l;;;!:;:^
Lates Michigan and Hun^n, ajul permv^^ th^^can^
the Far West to return east\Naul. ^''^ " V,,,.,,i
grain in ahu.ulance to the 2sew and the OH AV oild.
Toledo, April 20.
T1.0 ,.,e of ^.--:™> i:^,£;s trs'S^:^
constitutes one ot the oliaiaetciisues n
discovered at every ^^ ^':;:^ ^::L^£^o
found framed placaids in ^ \^ ,*;j'\^,4„llers to visit his
very cordially ^^^'^J^^ 10 30 o'Xck,! o'clock,
church. {Sermons ev ^-y Sund..} at I J.^u ^^^^■^^^,, a
and at 7 o'clock .. the ^^y^^^'f' .^\^.': /h.'i whose taith
^t ^t^'^ll t ^^^- ofWsUn religion is
'' '^? ; t ;t hcMnTno d<mht ahout the conversion ot any
r ^-homt lak^to his ehurch. It i. a certam conquest,
and he has saved his iriend.
MUSICAL TASTE.
185
or cook) '.nd
hile boraphig
lat I must be
. a gnitlcwn
) shall delivor
species iiiuUi-
11 r planet 'i
■ln!?an, which
rmcT has 8\v«il-
, forty or fifty
April 18.
ago to Toledo,
; battle- -ritts-
All the ladies
^ Nightingales'
April 19.
strait between
:he steamers of
West furnishes
L World.
Toledo, April 20.
iselytisin, which
of Americans, is
At the hotel we
erend So-and-So
ers to visit his
'elock, 1 o'clock,
) an American a
iend whose faith
i own religion is
inversion of any
certain contiuest,
Hamilton, Cftiiada, April 23.
English soldiers, jointed dolls all of a ]iieco, vi-iy neat,
but biutalized by tlio diseijiline and religious worship
which the so-ealled liberal education inculcates on each
Englishman for the hierarchy and the ticfitious suiieriority
of name and money.
The taste for music is not well developed. Aji otKcer
very candidly said to me after the concert tbat the ].i(.i.le
were not satisfied. I oug it to liave played themes from
tlie operas of 'La Sonnambula,' ' La Lucia'— hi short, a
London repertory; " that is," said he, "some true music."'
"You should have played some themes without ornament."
Let us never listen to the ]iublic. We should hang our-
selves in despair. At St. Louis, the wife of a judge said
to mo that I was deficient in charm ; that my "music was
too learned (I had just played a transcrii^tirn oi the
'Miserere'); that I ought to play national airs— 'Yankee
Doodle,' ' Hail Columbia,' ' Dixie's Land,' etc. At Havana,
Count O'Reilley discwered that I j.layed too loud. At
Xew York, II said that I played too soft.
April 24.
Composed a serenade for Simpson, on the words of a
friend of Pond's.
April 26.
In the car I met Monseigneur the Bishop of Chicago
(Homan Catholic), who was on his way to ]S''ew ^'ork to
embark for Europe. Mdlle. Patti had already been to see
him to obtain the setting at liberty of her brother Carlito,
whose name appeared iii a list of prisoners from the South.
The bisliop lives in a beautiful building that overlooks the
lake.
Toledo.
We took a carriage ride at Toledo with M , Carlotta
Patti, and a young German, a music-seller. I gave him a
i-Wav. At the moment I was least expecting it, he was
taken with nausea, and, ex abnqjio, he un nsciously be-
sprinkled me.
186
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
I
April 27.
At a station on my journey back to New York, a^c^owd
eo^i.tin, of -•--^' VJ»;^'^^;, t Abe Arrival of the
iuan,inuu>unung,avat '^^^^^ ^^.^ ,^ th bis
tnun. 1^}-' ^'^^ ^5 ;^^ ^XCintvUecl us tbat bo was
bauakeirbu- . ^^^^/'X ; k lied in tbe last battle (1 Ut.-
tbe fatber of a yo"ng othc KU ^ ^^,,,^ ,,..i, .^bout
lur, Lauaing;), wboso ;.;- A .^^ /^\,,as. ' Tbe cofbn wdl
to be reeeive. by 1"? J.'^"Hyj,n U ^'^'»'' ^^'^^^^ *^^*? T^''^'''
not arrive tbis ^^'^^""^^'; ,,^ i^,^,,ui,ea tbe bour of tbe con-
stoicism of bis race, co^ y ^V^ ^^^^ ^^^,^, ^ub bis bttlo
ductor,and,wbenoui t a lur, ^.^.^^^_ j^^ ^i,^.
eonn.auy di-l'l--r bebuvl a tii ^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^. ^ ^, ^ty
back-round ^'^''^V^''?']^^^^^^^^^ to be all in a .tate ot
little village, ^vboseudutascun^^^^^^ ^ .^ ^^
ovpitcmcnt. \Vbat a sati ^niio 1 ,„.„„_» T never sb all
bis grief.
'""' ^;;;rfoT;lo%!:tt U ^ X a vmngo,notwW,»t.„a-
been found asleep wlule ^"i\ ,^"\^,\i^r ^in.ost a youtb, nor
,,,,, N-tber t^.e ag^^^^^^ tbe .judges
his good coiiduet antmori), ^^ p ^.^^.^t w»« "^^''''"'^'^
He was condemned to eatb. {^'^^^ ^^,,,i,^bie cbarac^er
of it, and, taking "^^^ "^^'^^^^^VmSl^^ti sent a telegrapluc
Bt. Louis is tbe caintal^-uri -d^^iuB^W
two hundred thousand inhabitants, n
April 27.
ork, a crowd
portiilAe old
vrrival of the
ycrt with bis
that ho was
hattle (I'itts-
ul was about
Mio cottin will
1 the singular
jr of the" con-
witb his little
roa(b lu the
ics of a pretty
all in a state of
he sky is blue,
I never shall
trembling lips
iceakd from us
•urney of seven-
! a very pretty
3, uotwitlistaud-
s, Avho appeared
fore.
he Army of the
rtial for having
imple was neees-
lost a youth, nor
2nee the judges.
>nt was uiformed
ichable character
icnt a telegraphic
m that, in virtue
I.
May, 1862.
nd contains about
is a dull aud tiro-
SAIXT LOUIS.
137
some town. Like all American cities of French or S]»anish
origin, it is comjtoscd of heterogeneous clcnu'iits wliicli
have not yet amalgamated. Society is (livi([e<l into sefia-
rate clicpies. The Catholics (old 'French Creoles from
Louisiana), who, as I have already said, at the end of the
last century, went up the Mi.s»is,sippi, and Ibunded St.
Louis, are in the majority, and are so much the more
fervent, as tiie Episcopalians (Anglo-Saxons), also very
numerous, are animated with the spirit of i>roselytisni,an'd
make a bitter war on tlieni, which the others return with
interest. The Cierinans (they are numerous here, as through-
out the West) have organized a Philharmonic Society, which
perforins the works of Beethoven, Mendelssohn, Schumann,
and Wagner. I was introduced to an old (Jerman musi-
cian, with uncombed hair, bushy beard, in constitution like
a bear, in disjiositiou the ameiiify of a boar at bay to a pack
of hounds, I know this tyi)e ; it is found evei-ywhere. It
should be time that many great unknown nmsi<"ians should
be convinced that a tiegligent toilet is the niii/ui/roit imita-
tion of the surly and misanthropic behaviour of the great
symphonist of JJoiui, that it does not constitute a sufficient
title to tni'rit the admiration and respect of their contem-
poraries. Besides, soap is not hicomi>atible with genius;
and it is now proved that the daily use of a coml) does not
exercise any injurious influence on the lobes of the brain.
My concerts are not very profitable. AVe are in I'assion
Week ; and neither the Episcopalians nor the Catholics go
to concerts in the second half of Lent.
St. Louis is not a handsome city, so mucii is lacking.
The streets are badly paved, and its buildings are irregular;
but it possesses an interest for me, which none of tlie
sumptuous new cities of our continent inspire me with. It
recalls to me Xew Orleans, The names, even of the old
fanulies, are familiar to my ears. Indeed, a great mmiber
of the old French inhabitants of Louisiana ascended the
river and took up their residence at St, Louis, I oven see that
the city was founded by an old Louisianian, I too often
have present in my mehiory one of those stu[iid remarks
of Trollope in his book on the United States. Thus, when
he speaks of Baltimore, which he loves, he found in it an
English air, and drank there excellent Madeira ; but never-
12*
c
I
t.
188
yOTES OF A PIAMST.
I nn
thelcB. let mc bo V-^-^^^l^^J^Z. Oiu'^icX
a suc-ies of relaxation tiom J »-"*;.> | ^i,, B., at Nvliose
1 Ave, thank, to n.y -^|;-^i'^;::^:i,.aity, and ^vUose
house I ahvavH ^''^\; ..^^'^'^ n\e the doinestu- hearth
laiuily eirele ahvays ^'^^ f '«, ^^^.^^^^^^^^^^^ of Father Kyan. Ihe
1 have been to mass attht ^";"; , , ^^.\^y of men's
JL rather gave n.e 1^;;-^^;,^^ tn Uu-h, to my a.-
voices, NvUliout any ^-^^ 1'; "',;!; ,,,iontly to ^vlsh to
hononr to Goa. ^\ ^^^^^^.^^^ ii m^^ ^^^^
thonohts. When «H^^ ''\"" '' of Gocl'i That Nvlueh is
and through the nose is ^"1?,"^*^^^^^^^^ (iod. ^Vbat tor-
un^vorthy of our ears, ^^ }^ "^o have ears to hear the
tare is it not tor the t"\^'V^ '''£.,! lower than the organ
Ihole of the (io^^f^;^ l^^,^,r^\y oonnnences c.n-
aeeomi>animentl The l'^^^ ^^^^^i,! / In spite ot the
rectly, hut lowers l^^\^. \^' ^^ w..note, he soon passes to a
organist, who gives ";*^.^^^{i^aeseend into the cellar it
lower one, and uisensiblj^ v ouiu u^
tl.o litnnv did not finish m time. . , ^y^^atl
'^"m give to God the r-rogat^^^;^^^?;^,^^:^? kng false
.hall we'in our c-onoens sing ust ami tri, ^^.^^^ ^^^^^
and badly to God? V^'^^I-^^^tt^i^^^^^^^ Bhock me,
or theatrical exin-essionsnth^thur ,^^^^^^^ ^
-i S^J So^S^^-lJ language in pulpit elo-
^"Sced in the choir of the church a tablet with this in-
scription- ,, ^^^^, j^ ,„y ae France. 1818."
St. Louis, lob^.
%
CiyciXXATI.
139
St. Loni^» Is
(!) in wliit'li
15., at wlioso
, and whoso
L' hoartli.
i-Kyan. The
trio t)f intni s
L'h, to my aft-
y to ^visll to
mu into iiult*-
liove, reached
honour to any
ic mass invari
. Vcoy 1 Mu^i*-'
.,\ to do more
perfume the
to sing falsely
That whieh is
:ia. AVhat tor-
jira to hear the
than the organ
■onnnences cor-
;u spite of the
soon passes to a
xito the cellar it
musicl Wliatl
,e, and sing false
not wish trilling
diich shook me,
lan I would per-
re in pulpH ^lo-
hlet with this in-
L8.
St. Louis, 1862,
General Ilalleck,
de a speech,
He
announco<l, in the midst of an entlmsiasm inipos,sil)le to
dest-rilte, the cajitnrc of tlie island and the fort wliich for
thiee weeks resisted che ilotilla of Commodore Foote and
tliuarmy of General I'ope. We liavo taken five thousand
prisoners, one hundred and twenty-five cannons of large
calil)re, ten thousand guns, three generals, etc., and at the
same time the bloody battle of Corinth took place, twenty
thousand dead and Mounded — a sad victory! and even
sterile, since IJeauregard has re-entered without molestation
into his entrenchments at Corinth where he is pi-otected by
formidable works uul an army of one hundred thousand
men.
Last Sunday at St. Louis they oxi)ected,at six o'clock in
the evening, the first arrival of the wounded from Pittsbun'
Landing (Corinth). Besides the ordinary liospitals, they
have converted two or three of the most beautiful buildiutis
in the city into hos2)itals for the same purjiosc.
At C!ineinnati 1 saw a superb library and lecture hall of
tlu" Young Men's Mercantile Association. There are three
hundred thousand volumes — all the French classics I
found there ' lo Xord,' the 'Gazette d'Augsburg,' the
'Charivari,' 'Figaro,' all the illustrated ])apers oi' Furope,
aiid iill the great newspajiers of the world. The expenses
of this establishment are thirty-seven thousand dollars per
annum, which is defrayed by an annual contribution of
three dollars from each of the members. I saw there a
superb bust in white marble by our great sculptor, Hiram
Powers.
Tlie commerce of Cincinnati is principally confined to
lard and hams. Three or four millions of hams are for-
warded from this, the largest city of Ohio, to every part of
America. I have visited the principal slaughter-house,
and manufactory of hams. An ingenious and gigantic
steam machine seizes the poor aninials, kills theni, "scalds
them, cuts them up, cleans them, washes and salts them.
All this is done without solution of continuity, and if you
have the patience to go and watch the othtT end of the
machine you will see them come out of it in the form of a
ham, ready to be eaten, from the poor innocent jiig who
entered full of confidence the other side of the machine.
Kiiie hundred hogs are thus dispatched daily !
,it
140
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
i-
May 25.
Tl.o nowH roceivoa yostorday, Sunday, of tlio .U'tVat ..f
B-mt . iXm has arousofl the inttriotic cnthusu.sn.
whkai L nmidly Huc-eoedu.- victories ot tlio last t^^o
!;;;l;;i;:;,/',^;:;i:.r],;u,,.''::r .lia-^^'a -on. «eve„ o.w
. 1, 1,„L. , 1 nioiv. Tlu'V fair tlmt the 0.titi*racy,
Ar.i^lnno-ton There was a not yesterday in isainuiuiL.
^"' ^laewiLd to hang a ma.. -^- -1;--^^^^
sioniit sentiments. An imposing toree ot i-oheo guaid the
^'llid husiness for me, who ought t^ give a ..noert there
• : I..,- . T verv well understand how to till the iiali ,
E,t iUs la, eovll^ I ™Iia l-c to ,nn.,unoe tlu>t I would
! I' ■ i ^.,,,,1' III tlio til'* I iiitcixalatu '^aiikio Uio-
, :•' I . . itu 'Col iilli' >.' The »e«„„l i. a S.utliciii iicgm
t, ;;;• wliicli tlie Co,itl..U.,atc, .ince . ,o <-o.;..»;;;- ^
V^' T'i'nal "S .".""-» of- Bl;:-.Kar,rinvariablv
5 S£^i5^^b^o--^-^?-
fl «:Jt t thotml I might he the fir»t one choked.
May 26.
Super!) concert at the Academy in P\"J»*^#^";. ^ J,;;,*;
parts are hvirniiig to meet
I
JOURNEY TO WASIIjyaiOX.
141
May 25.
10 (U'f-ilt of
oiithusiasin,
10 last two
[c(l Hcrciiitv.
exc'lii>ivfly
that motro-
ini!;t()n. It
Seven otlici'
['ew (lays ten
Uoiit'ederacy,
ircliina; ui'^*^
1 Baltiuiore.
)rcssed seces-
icL' guard the
concert there
fill the hall ;
that I would
i-ariations on
Yankee Doo-
)ntheni negro
menei'nient of
I the musie of
,rd invariahlv
loint at which
11 of partisans
me to hlowB.
dollai-s. It is
)iie choked.
May 26.
idelphia. The
,r AV'ashington
Baltimore," the
lovernnient for
elay the volun-
ng in from all
■derates. This
evening the Avliole of the generals, majors, Itriiradiers, and
coloiiels (if the troops tVonrtlie t^tafe of J'ennsvTvania liave
received orders from the State government to'pnt all flu-r
soldiers under arms and leave in tv.entv-fonr hours. The
State of IVmisylvania has already furnished one ]uni(i;'ed
thousand men, she will send froin liere in four davs ei-lit
thousand more; the State of New York one liumlred thou-
sand men.
I have played ' L'Union.' Unheard-of enthusiasm. Cir-
cumstances gave to it a real interest which has heen the
pretext for a noisy and patriotic manifi'station on the part
of the audience. Kecalls, encores, hurrahs, etc. !
If I had phiycd it at IJaltimore at this time when the
effervescence is at its height, I prohahly should have heen
knocked down.
i:.c2.
_ After having given fifteen concerts in Xew York, ami
eight in I*hiladelphia,Ileft for Baltimore and Washintrton.
My impatience greatly increases as I ap].r')ach the theatre
of war. ^ I desire, al)ove all, to see the Army of the I'oto-
mac. The advanced lines of the Confederates are hut a few
miles from the Federal cajiital. From I'hiladeliphia to
Baltimore the route presented nothing new to me. It only
recalled a trip which I made in 18o(),' from AVashijiirton to
Kcw York, during Avhich myself and four or five liundred
other travellers in the train were on the point of dyinu: of
cold and hunger. We were 8urprise<l hy a great stoi-iu of
snow, so fiu'ious that in a few hours the road was completely
ohstructed. AVe remained stationary the whole ni<,dit.
Our provision of wood and coal was exliausted ; our food
also. The cold hecame insupportahle; the morning found
us literally buried mider the snow, masses of which were
piled up above the dooi's of the cars. Our positi(»n was no
longer tenable; our only hope was to see arrive, I think
from Wilmington, the nearest town, a snow-ploua:h, and a
party of lahourers. While waiting, hunger matle its de-
mands, children wept, the women cried" lamentably, the
conductor swore like cm Irishman, and I mvself shivered
with cold. All this made a frightful tumult. Mounted
on the roof of a car, I explored tlie country, which, as far
SOTES OF A PIASIST.
»- ^ Y „ fi.w Hies limn>i't«n cwifiht ll»t
eountry wa. u.tersce ed ^^lt^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ . ,,., , w,
,.ut ..f the (lue^hon tor "« '^ J";\V^^^^^^^^ i saw at last a
man in a hUmI, a H"';^'-^^'^ ;' /J'V" ofU'le-nipln.- evobitums,
,Uiof ana lu.y arm. I ^^ -^^ ^^ ^ .^„,! ,,U.n .\M
HO violent that the tumu who a ^^^^^.^^^^
stopi'^-l 'i-'"^ "^'^'^^ ^. • T T m, It t-ike to avoi.l falling w the
U the .lireetion ^v^^'^ ^^ ^ ^^ ;^'^^^ ^fter having aisap-
holesorclit.'heshi.Men 1> \'<^ f'^L on eoiaing to the
pearea twenty tiiucs, t^V^o;^n at " w guanlian sU-.h My
surfaeo I ^in-Ivea almost 1 v-cn at |^ ^ ^^^.,, ^,,„„., i
man gaine.l a T"'^; > ;^^\;^ tot my nutterings before a
urrived at '^'^'}'''''f'''':ft'i^!l^^{. .Vs to my travelhng
angry 'it .mji^^^^';}!,-..^, „„. o^e of the most severe that^ had
The wmter ot ISoO ^^ aa one c)i J ^^ tj^^ ^,,,y itselt was
ever been experience.! m ^„^^y ^Xlbu.y the Hndson
frozen over. From ^ ^.'^ ^ii%i\c;eB%loughed the
was frozen so hard that ^^•J'-*-''-* , i ft/tv-five miles,
river for the distance of one ^""^VS\.,f ' i'l had been
ic ni-ht, in returning trom 1^^''' V^.k.-d v the ice at the
^r^i^a concert, onr f -un^t^XS^ ^^^^^ r""
falfmg of the tide, and 1 did '^J'J'r'' ...^ i^d taken
Hix o'clock in the "^"."»"^>^T.^''^'yaa?, under ordinary
.oven hours m crossing, wmt ev^^y ^la^ ; ^^.^^^^^^^^_ .^.^^^
■!,?t.;„f, there i, -'"-^r,';^.!" Sion I Jke j.lcko,,
of ,-cgular.. Jff'' So- voluutoow. W« rcacli tl.c
bridge ia gujwea l)j poata ui
4Jb
A/iA/'TAn/LlTY OF )V1A'A'A/;.
143
iuitiht.' Tho
Doks; it wuH
h the f»iu)W,
iiw at last a
luy hantlkor-
ic'fvobitionrt,
;nur«UaM t^lftl
"lini, iHiiiitiiig
tiiUiiiji i»» ^li«
luiving (Viriai>
ouiiiit:; to the
iaii sleth My
two houi'rt I
rin""a before a
mv traveUing
,-uy they eould,
L>lt' for'havhii!;
d hungi-y a»i«^
evcrc that had
; hay itself was
y tho Hudson
} plouglied tho
tiftv-ftvo inilos.
icrolhad been
)y the iee at the
Sew York until
, we had taken
under onlinary
minutes.^ The
ter are of iron;
, Avhieh euts the
siidac^.
The Hun floods
call to me those
The river Dela-
1 1 notice pickets
tl line, and every
AVe reach the
rhosapeake, the width of whieli is considcnihlu in this
place.
ClIEKArKAKK.
Crossed in jroin.' to \Vushi^^^ton 27 May, 18G2. ^^prinu-
tinie. Jlealth below zero. "
RorTE TO WAHIIINflTON.
I Still notice pickets of rofjnlni-s iit every station ; at
every hrancli of tiie road, and at evt-rv bridirt,. ] j|,st have
again a proof of that incessant activity of nnnd wliirli
torments the Vaiikiv'. We have in our "car manv individ-
uals whom, by their apjicarance, [ ji>(l<;e to lie Western
fanners. Uur train stops to await the one froju W'ash-no;-
ton; one of the tiirmers has profited by it to uet out. "l
see him from heio walking in a field aiomrsidt'tlie road;
lie has dug with bis heel a little liole, and he is about to
study the nature of the ground. Xo doubt if he finds it
rich he \yill think nothing of ([uitting his farm in the West
to establish another in these latitudes.
The a(l(ipf<il)illt>i of the Yaidvee is wonderful. IFe is
ready to set his hand to anything; to settle himself down
anywhere if he sees the least el'iance of success. J lis im-
perturbable coniidenco in himself, an indomitable fund of
energy, and we must also say a greediness for gain, wiiicli
too often extinguishes every other feeling, explains his
facility in adaptiiig himself to all the circumstant-es of life.
My music [lublisher. Hall, was first a lawyer; afterwards,
by turn, a dealer in furniture, maimfacturerJ.:' guitars, nmsie
imblisher, piano manufacturer, member of ('oiiirress, sena-
tor of the State of Xew York, general of miliria, and to-
day he is to be found in his nuisic shop, busy at work,
making bargains, ajid selling my compo> itions. ' \ ouu'bt to
add that through all these mimerous changes lie has nierited
the esteem of his fellow-citizens by tlie incm-ruptible honesty
of his dealings and the uprightness of his mind,
I.x THE Caks ooino to Washinoton, May 27.
Scarcely was the proclamation of the President ].nblished
(ni which he » .lis for reinforcements to defend Washinirton
in ease the Confederates take the offensive), than at once all
jl
144
SOTKS OF A PIAMf^T.
%
I
♦I .oM-uT. of the NortluTH Stutort are on loot. In tw-nty-
iinny alifixlN .mi. mu. > . .v.civo from t a- National
Vnt .vstaurant .l.i.l. --l;-^ ^.i^:" l.e 1 il .Ina-o lor
.,orvant couus to hand to carl, tuiv ny • (^,„^,^in.^ At
tlu. .lav, ^vl.•u•h is, »u/ /-, NHTV varu. an I tuni- .^
U. tlu' theatre ol war, \!' /; '^f,, ;^ r.f i.rmulh,.u- f.^ul
have lornu.l asso.u.tion. tor ' ' .'^^ J ^,.,,.,. i„ the
"''t'" • 11 •. to ^iiv that those sncc-onrs are si.ontuncouft
J v:,;:;;;l'r--nt sov„ ,„. ,.■..■■„.« .1. .....u-y
■i;;-::;^';fi:;:;'!i:i.»"«^^v'i:S;i:';;"^;:'i;:::'^
,l,„t .Iresso.! tl.0, wo,m. s ,.t ''' h "„'•":,',.,.,,, „,,1 that
„,, laborious 1>-U,«;u.n .h. no ■' ,™^,*;;,^,,i, ,„,U „f
1 "Mr thns, one day, the oujui y /
-ii '"-r"i!-\?t, '''tit'ii;::'.; s 'r '.•„«.,>■ .0 a,v
3 o clock 1 . Ai. .^^'/' . . :^^ irt the liith
sto,im,g to let a tram o solduas uss n._,.j^ .^^^^ ^^
Volunteer Kegiment ot >e\\ i* i^ ...thu^iastic cheers
AVashln^ton. They V^^'^j^'^'^f .^^^^^i,; ' !. : ,n express.'
with ns, and are ont ot ^'^-^^^^jJ " *\\\V ,arl with glasses
The restaurant hoys l-ass thi<mg '^ « DocUedly,
filled with lemonade, '^?, ^'^J^^t^,, ^uAA. At
these \aakees are ^^>^, "^"V. /^ ^^^f ,^; i I^^^^^^^^^^ comtort of the
Bleeiun-cars,in whi ,tor ,„attres8 and pillows,
hcd IS i.reparcl loi ^'»"',^y;'' ' . j^ them to give every
The ears are so arranged as to tnuuic &
1
S/STKliS OF Till': VISITATIOy.
Uf)
Til t\v<^iity-
'it' J'\(U'nil
; with tlio
.e Natioiml
might ho
or nil oxcfl-
lu train. A
I of t'aro lor
iipiinu;. At
I the route
DM the way
IT iri'Mtleiniii
ovidini;' t'ootl
ijori. In the
^eu two biii»-
fty thoiiwvntl
. spontunoous
the ordinary
nurses, and 1
white hands
^, Avouuded at
retrretted that
> least hope of
.ehing earos of
lilwav we are
t is the Fii'th
lory a-oing to
iisiastu- I'heei-ft
ig 'an exjiress.'
i-ri with glasses
e. Deeidedly,
thewoild. At
comfort of the
, a magnitieeut
ess and pillows.
.. to give every
family tlio nunilur of h.ds 't desires. As soon as dnv
diiwns, llicy are ni-aiii convi'rted into ordinary ciirs. '|"h\.
iiie<liiinisni hy wliich thi' heds are made is most ingenious,
and dues honour to the invenlivi' sjiirit of the Anierieans.
CTIAPTER V.
WAHiiiNnTON, Mny 30.
I WAS prcsont at the reliearsal of aconeert wliich U to take
platv at il.o ^'onventof the Sisters of the Visitation, (hn-iu"-
a tair for the poor. Tlie convent, wliich tlie I.adv Siipi-ricM-
invited me to visit, comprises a small jiark, a nionasterv
lor the professc'd sister-i, u concert hull, magniticcnt halls
tor study, and for the recreation of the scholars, larire gar-
dens, a heautiful collection of philosophical instriinienrs,
and spacious dormitories wliich hold one hundred heds.
The young girls who at this time are receiving their edu-
cation here are nearly all from the South, and nianv of them
have not heard from their relatives for lu-arlv a'\far. A
charity school and an asylum f(,r the p • "are 'attach -d
to the convent. The kind reception which these -rood
sisters gave me prevents me from expressiui; mv opmion
on their music, under pain of heing horrihlv un<--rateful it
may suffice for you to know that the only professor of
music m the convent is an Eix/lish ,s/a/c/-, seveiitv vears old
who teaches the harp, the piano (I was ahoiit^o sav the
harpsichord), and singing, and whose compositions consti-
tute the whole repertory of the pupils. One of the i.tipils
the daughter of General B , who has taken Xew Orleans'
and occuj.ies it at this moment, has made in mv honour an
incursion into profane musip hy playing for iiumh a storm v
manner ' I Orage' hy Lacomhe and the liuitasiu of Asdier
on • Lucrezia.'
Two. hundred most charming young girls are itresent at
this preparatory rehearsal. Some of' them who had l.ccn
to my concerts knew me. I had requested the J.ady
SOTICS OF -t riASl^T.
s!!..nor not to a.k n. ^^^^^^y;XJ^^^ :^ '::^,tZZ
,,|Vort,lmt son,, two ot »'»•/;;; ^{ ,,,o.l„.r.l t\n'ux-
'"'' ^'\'''' ■ il... 1 ...Iv SuLiM-ior i.tvHcuti-d nu" in »!,*• nan,*; of
;:;;;:;;':;;^w';^;.ny'«^.u;' »;..! ^'^^ «... «,.... w,,.,,
workctl thi',11. *.,.,„ fliroo milofl from Waf*l>-
^n7c.,v, iK nothing n,oro l'';;*"^^'^* f;,, , "t U,,t.ll to tho
.onu.uunty by Kin^' ^ '» ^^^^^ ho,,,, wagous tilU-.l
Ti,i't ii convoy ot vdK'l |)Usoncrrt '^ . j. v„lnnttT,-i*
" th wonn.k'a. This at't.rnoon a ^f "'^''Vp •,; ,'y„ne.,,t
.o,n Khoao Tslan.l Ijas "Yltl^:^! mn *an.l s a,.;;v..v.l,
r^;-r;i;u^:rir;y ti::fis:^:i, a,th
wore tive hundred milca oft.
WASIimOTON.
The. wa. at ^Vashington a y^^^f'ti^t:^'"^
tidi-itat.ur, and proiossor ot the P^'^" '• p,,st-,di-ita-
lu.-mHV,ng, he took to ^'Y^^l'^^.^/i;, , Tre ln,beUished
tour. nU exhibitions ot ^l^'^^^f ^ij; ^ ho nan,e he has
^vith l.iat,o forte ^^''^''!''''-7^ 1^^ (of I'almer he
It is asserted H at ^i^»^' ™/.,,i'- The first two w,ll
rihnan for next w Miter, as also Ristmi. ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^
wotsi>i:it iti hUEiis.
147
r my joiiruoy
I slllti'l't^'toUrt
,1(1, fiilliiiu' t"
odiuvd tlicin-
IllT'' '' 1
,s ot'chiinniMiT
:, of in iH-iiu-m-
Hn'nTrt whuh
ort tVoiu Wrtnh-
^ till' roinitry.
ho chupc'l tlii-y
llVSC'lltltl to till'
inti llu' t'ity ^v*•
o wairous tilli'ti
it r)i"\(tlnntt'iTf<
'Pliis rf;j:'uiH'iit
ul hiis iiiiswi'ivd,
, althongli they
\A\ iiiiijXlor, pi't'«-
Hi'rt lessons not
uoso jtrestidiiiitii-
are enibellished
he name ho lias
n (of l*almer lie
■st, many persons
Cliasse,' while he
idin.
i are ensjaged in
The tirst two will
•onjr donhts ah»»nt
phia, and r>oston,
n is uniiitelliu;il)lo,
q\\ as the tragedies
ot Ahieri (,r ol |',.|li,.., inp „„ andieii.,. ,,f l,o,i..s» V„n-
k.rs. hop,. IJistnri niiiy not 1... disippuint..!. The .iie-
eesH ..f Karhrl m (he TniLd States must nnt h,. cnnsj.hTe.l
as ev,.U.,„v ot the taste of tlie AnierL^ans lor foiviirn a.tors.
Ivaelul had a nanie eonseerated hy a seri.s of tiiuniphH
w.thoiit exampl.. for tn-eMty-liv, yrars. Ih,. nan,.. L\
l.ienrd thee-ivHopeot in.liti;.r,M.e t,. foreiirn art \vlii,h is
peei.liar to Amenrans Upsides, overyhodv iindi'rstands, or
ougl.t to uh.h rstaiMl, Fn.n.h, whilst the Italian, whi.h is
not a .ommer.ial lan,Lriia-e,-- and for manv An.eri.ans it is
ot no use except as it serves to sean the nulodhs in the
o|.erasot Mellmi and V..rdi, - is only n h.nirnaire ,1. hnr
an( IS , lot spoken. Kx.vpt ' lo tamo/ whi.h is proxvrl.ial
1 douht It anionir <.ne Innidred thousand persons out of
iNew ^ork one hundred i,,v to he found who can lui.ler-
Htand one phrase of what Madame Kistori is prei^ared to
givo tlieni. ' '
E.V lidl-TK Flill rilll,Alil:i.riMA.
Midni.irht ^rav m. The hattalion of a r,.uiment whi.-l,
was 111 the last hattle is just enterintr the station, covered
witli dust; some wounded otiicersare supported. Wc have
Jiist taken up at a station manv wounded and sick Tliev
are generallv young otlhvrs l)elon^n„sr to ri<-h .Northern
tamilies. I have never in my life seen a more lieart-rend-
nig siiTJit than the spectacle of these heroic victims of oi.r
monstrous war. A y,.un,t; otti.-er whose features, naturally
liandsome, are disutfured hy wastinj;, enters t)io car, sui.-
porte( hy two soldiers, sweafiuij from fever and shiverin-r
not\yitlistandinjr the temperature of dune; he is carried
to Ins car. lie is a livin- skeleton. I have since learned
that the Imrstiuirot a ]»om]) shattered liis thh^h. A convoy
ot wounded went thron,u-h the town vesterday. The hos-
I'ltals hemg full they were sent to the naval aiWnal. Tliev
were so teehle that many of them ha<l to rest frequently on
the road. Jhey were escorted hy an immense crowd of
ehildren, women, ami citizens, all anxious to .rive them
marks of synii.athy. 1'he street hoys offered duriii"- their
passage to carry their knai.sacks and arms for them"
Ihe Opera House (Academy of Music) at I'hila.leli.hia
IS certainly one of the most beautiful in the world It
h
NOTES OF A PIASIST.
four chori.tpr. all ^^ 'uc .n^kIc .liploiuatic corps at my
At Washington I Uaut«^NK .^^ ^^^^ ftrst row.
concert. They were aUl^^^^^^^^^^ Ih.
of orchestra ^^tallB^Count ^^^^ ^^ . .^^^.i^^a poet, Sinimsh
Minister •, Baron » ?,f^^ ?•?; Bc;^ -^ Italian Minister.
Belgian Minister; ^ If f^'f , f , ^ !i.>t c fantasia, in winch
fwas to play th« Union a laa^^^^^^ .^^.^.^^ .^i,, ^lea
I have i'^torcalated the Amencai 1 ^^^^^^ entlemen hy
oanic into my mind to ahite eacu ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^.^ j^,
laying to him the •^a^^iona ^ir oi . ^,^ „f , p^ece,
.ev.resented. Tins f^^^f ^^JI V)dn^ as I have told you
cn\ar.in. the f ^ f^h %1 ^"'^^^^^^^^^^
' The Union.' I hii'l the P'^' J "^^ ^. ^^ -^^g appeared ' Par-
comitenances ^l^^n^^^rSai^l M ' Garibaldi's Hymn,
taut ponr la Sync, La Ma^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^.^..^m Hymn,
'God save the Czar. _ ^/^J^^'^TtU^^^^
I was satisfied by playtn.J, ^^n hG mon lloi.' Mr. Blon-
la Syrie,' ^^^^^'^l,^^:^ about saying the mm-
del, the mmister f^V^'^'^^J,^^ ,,,1^, i^i, mansion the rendez-
,trel-whose taste ^9^ ^^t i^ndcj^ ^^ .^^^, fon.u my
vous of all the art^^s ^ ^AoA me with some beau-
SrS,wSn^-atosettomusic.
LINCOLN. •
rresident Lincoln is the ^^^ ^^^^^
West. lliB character answers l^tlitto^ta ^^.^
they have in Eu^ '^^ f^wld/arms excessively long,
back l^o"^^ 1^^%^^'^\ f i^'^^^^^^^^^^ that long frame
his crane-hke K^«' ^^'-^^XX h^"^ ^^^^ ^PP'^''^"^'
whose •lH^^'^l^^^^;;^'^^i{re£^^^^^^ of him something
a grapevine covered ^y^l^S ^ould .strike us in a dis-
g,fotesciue and stra,_ige -■ ^^ .^^^^.^^^^^ ,] expres-
^.reeable "^'^f ^f^.^^om 5uig of honesty in his counte-
sion of goodness and somcuiui-,
i:
LIXCOLX.
149
rod persons,
j-A Favorita,'
i)ristcvs, aiul
(jiveu. Tho
,tion I
I corps at my
he first rows
linister; Hw
)oet, Spanish
Mr. Blondel,
II Minister,
isia, in which
,rs. The idea
gentlemen hy
itry which he
n of my piece,
lave told yovi,
11 these official
iippeared ' Par-
ihaldi's Hymn,
Jclijian Hymn,
)'rartant pour
oi.' Mr. Blon-
^aying the min-
ion tiie rendez-
rton, foimd my
v'ith some beau-
imerican of the
, the idea which
Tall, thin, his
xcessively long,
iiat long frame
le appearance ol
[■ him something
tke us in a dis-
head, the cxpros-
ty in his counte-
nance, did not attract, and cause Ins exterior to be tor-
gotten.
Lincoln is eloquent in his own way. He can speak a
long time and utter no idle words. How many great pub-
lic Orators would be embarrassed to do as nuicli ! Ho pos-
sesses the three qualities which arc required in our jioindar
government — an •'i{tfi:cil)lc'Jirnuic.',:% an hicorrn/itih/f hnntsfi/^
and ^(w(/ m*.sr, which make him find the natural lolution
of (questions tlie most difficult in ajipearance. Ib-illiant
eloquence, without good sense and honesty, is not only
dangi-rous, but also of pernicious infiuence. Lincoln is
essentially good and benevolent. Ho loves to tell jokes,
and does it with a humour which is always very comical,
but the salt is not always the pnirst Affir, if all the stories
are authentic which are attributed to him.
Jnn.} 3.
Gave a concert alone at Worcester (Massachusetts). Ih-ig-
noli, Amodio, and Madam do Lussan are at Boston ; they
gave a concert there last eveiung; the whole weiglit of the
concert fell thus on my shoulders. I'layed the 'prrhitlc. ui
Dflai of Chopin, under the name of ' Me<litation Eeliirieuse,'
'Last no2)o,' ' Banjo,' 'Union,' 'Trovatcsro,' and 'Muniuu-es
Eoliens.' Recall eel several times. A crazy amateur, having
a book of Beethoven's sonatas under liis arm, came to seek
me between the first and second part of my performance,
re(pu^?ting me to play an andante of Ik'othoven. I con-
sented by playing that in Aflat of the 'Sonata patheti(iue.'
I had the satisfaction of seeing my amateur while I played,
with his eyes fixed on the text, in the English style, to" see
if I made a mistake. Of all the absurdities practised by
the Anglo-Saxon race in matters of art, this is what makes
me sutt'er the most. Their manner of playing music is
Avholly speculative; it is a play of the wits. Tbey like to
see such or such chords solved. Tliey delight in the cpisotfrs
of a second repetition. "Tlicy comprehend music in their
own Avay," you will tell me; but I doubt if that is a right
one. ^fusic is a thing eminently sensuous. Certain con)-
binations move us, not because they are ingenious, but
because they move unr nervous system in a certain way.
I have a horror of musical Puritans. They are arid natures,
13*
1
160
KOTES OF A PUylST.
B„u.ul Often coiunnt ^^'I'l^^f^^^ "^f ",^;^,; .i . Tniitfcm t;
,K>t to coraimmusc Im ,«olt '>,•", ".el IwcatTilotfuo
^^rTiX^ Richmond, Vnoh com,nonc«l .ho
carnod up ^y"l „lV' .i,,.,! to the nuarters of General
y"s movements.
s:tvSK:g&»r;rKrY„*vo.„„.c.«,tho
A THEATRICAL MOXOMAXIAC.
151
incapable of
never judge
[liose tasters
?eu the seal,
u inipertau'b-
[ is served to
Tartuttes of
is the Eiig-
inditferent ;
le takes eare
tu judgment,
[lis catalogue
ts go in all
. He thinks,
re, because it
idgnient.
lenient, so in-
ncc, laborious
in, they must
■h they like iti
: for oratorios,
in this music,
they listen to
itter drops, of
;ively bitter to
• the stomach."
le of his uiiig-
uem, which he
who visit Bos-
d stalls. It is
white. Carya-
, It is adniira-
3omtncnced the
aining his posi-
ction. He had
apparatus, the
•ters of General
^ were instantly
Volunteers, the
most aristocratic corps of the Uiiiti'd States, sint-e it is com-
posed cMtiri'Iy of the sons of wealtliv iiiinilics, have taken
with tliem, tor a service of three months, their l)and <if
music, lliis timcy of millionaire soldiirs will cost them
fittecn thousand dollars. It is a magniticent military
band, numbering more tlian sixty persons, all meritorious
artists.
:Mr. H a fui-rier, who has mtide more than t\vo hundred
thousand dollars by soiling beaver skins from Canada, and
bear skms trom the Rocky Alountains, has become almost
a theatrical mon<mianiac. Ko is forty-tive years old, with
a small, sourish voice. Tfe lias a daughter sixteen years
old, pretty but singing false, and a wife forty years of age,
who smgs badly. AVith these elements he has formed an
Italian opera company, hi wliich he is tenor assoluto, Ins
daughter prima donna, and his wife contralto. It must be
a(hiiitted that his operas are got up regardless of expense;
but hgure to yourself 'La Traviata' by'a merchant of otter
skins and his interesting family ! Their //(•/>,<< took place
at the Acaduiny of Music. The eccentricity of the thin"-
hatl drawn an immense crowd; all the ral)bit-skiu mer-
cliaiits strutted there. Tliey applauded Mr. B., whose
nuniio was adorable, and all obtained a success in bursts
ot laughter. They were recalled. Miss 13. managed
to api)ear the same evening in four marvellous toilets,
which cost, It IS said, five thousand dollai-s. The lather
^^—^ "^vas dressed absurdly. In the first act lie was niufHed
up m a troubadour s cloak, and funnel-shaped boots which
reached to his waist, and gave liim the appearance of a
mock scavenger. Besides, he had not been willin<r to sacri-
hce to the demand of the stage a magnificent pair of whis-
kers. VV e are going to have in a few days 'II Trovatore,'
Madam B. singing Azucena. I liave known peoi.Ie less
crazy who were sent to the madhouse,
June 5. Second concert at Providence. All mv pieces
encored. Kecalled three times. After ' Kijrolotto,' the
public opened a subscription in order to persuade me to
give a matinee, on the 9th, for piano alone. I shall i.lay
SIX pieces announced in the programme, and six others left
to the choice of the audience.
p
I,''
^,^2 NOTES OF A riAyiST.
';il.an ha. t.kcu tl^e A,-a; W of Mu^ {l^^^l^r of
i„ton.Un^ t.> i^V:/">y;:^KZ^Sa;ne Hermann (the
Julien'r^ m London. .Mi^>* xf. .,'7^; HoreharcUand^ladanio
d'Angri, pnina donna, aie e gaj^ul a^ ' , -i,,tAVcen the
Amodio, Imritone; fep"'\ f ^^^,! "^^ l;\\ ternunate
acts two or tlrreo rV"r'^ na^S
with a. seance of "^^'^^^ ^]-^'*; \" .J [ ^^^^^^^ proportions,
in Spain, ten years ago, '^J;* "\';'^^^^^^
he is very adroit, and, aDcnc an, ^^ ^ _
artof attn^ct^p th^I^v^l- J ^ ^^.^ fe chieagdst.
E::S;^d 'S:itL:;^,^-y g-e ^ith sou. success the
' Noces de Jeanuette.
Portsmouth, June o.
A ctavmin, little ^■-^^--^fi^ ^J^ Z
houso- ..r» of Y™:; i,C; VhoS. mC meeting .tt the
Btivcts arc liiiM jwtli "'^V*' JV',., tliem-look lilco an alley
,„,„ sift, ^^^^^^^^i^tm^i^n in iVont, a>al a
in a park. L\ei\ nouscua & Q^J^,
kitcllen garden with ^-S^^^^-^^ J^/^^^^^^^^^^^
arrival was an event ^ J^""^"^"; .^|^,,t intention of seeing
passed before the hotel ^'^t^^^"^ f ^i*^"^^^^^^ pretty, though a
lis and of being adinired TJfJ^^'-^^t ^he station we met
little provincial in ^\^^"^,.f^ f;^.Lre\vere numberless om-
;!J^:^ t: Ktif St^e^^^t married and gone
^^^:;/^^Ung:1^^^at Po^outh^^^tn^i^u.^
enthusiasm. All the PJ^f^^^J!;^;^^ ^i^^^^^^^
S^'^S^^t li;:;^r^tmar^^onths takes
pCe at the Museum. The public crowd theie.
Portland, Maine, June 6.
_j. +v,n mrmt beautiful I have had
for many y«>»: V '•" fivi huiulml peraoiis, and ia one
^s-i'^vfi^^^i '■■
MADAMINA OF DON JUAN. '
153
or one week,
ike tliosc (^f
lormann (the
,aiulMiulanie
ig-noli, tenor ;
,' loetween the
•ill terniinute
whose siu'cess
i prop<n'tionf>,
•in theAVet^t;
4 the (litHcult
r at hid repre-
t Chicago, St.
10 success the
SMOUTH, June 5.
loan. All the
hiteness. The
meeting at the
>k like an alley
in front, anil a
the rear. Our
iiig young girls
entiou of seeing
>retty, though a
! station we met
numberless em-
larried and gone
Extraordinary
e hall is used on
•e. The " hahy"
my months takes
there.
ND, Maine, June 6.
tiful I have had
ncored ; recalled.
;rsons, and is one
properties. The
pul)lic are desirous tliat I slionld votnrn and ffive another
concert. Extraordinary enthusiasm.
Salkm.
smal
Concert, Saturday, .Tune 7. Afudi success. A .,„<,,,
town. IJdoro the (omniercial devi'loj.mont of iJoston it
had a large trade with India; now it is toi-pid. The old
and rich merchants of Boston retire liore. \Ve remarked
on our way to tlie hall a great number of vf)uiio; </irls ..-oinir
and eonimg. It is the town library, and they y-o^to ehaii..e
the books they have out for new ones, these libraries
exist m all the United States.
Leaving at 8 o'clock, there remains for us the iier-
spective ot passing a Sunday at Salem. " Katber die'"
said Susmi. We hire a gigantic four-horse coach. It has
the torm of an English stage, and holds four inside and
tour outside. Iho weather is beautiful. The horses i.aco
the road. We visit the JS^aval Arsenal at Charlestown.
llicy work there by gaslight.
A\'e arrive in the morning at IJ o'clock.
'Madamina' of Don Juan is, at my concerts, almost
always encored. Susini sings it with his beautiful voice.
Is It the beauty of the music which is so sparkliiiij that it
attracts even AV^estern audiences? "Yes, without^loubt,"
the believers will answer nie. How is it that, every time
he sings it without announcing it, there has be i a com-
plete failure ? Is that not eufliciently conviiiciiii How,
then, do you explain the complete silence of tie itublic'
every time that Susini sung the barcarolle of Kicci's 'Sulla
poppa? '_ And one day that the programme announced
' iVladamina' Susini sang by mistake the work of Kieci.
V\ lid ai)i)lause from the amateurs, who were transported
111 thinking they heard the music of Mozart.
Jur 18.
Going to Providence, I found in the car Mason, the
pianist, who is about to give a concert ;.t the Younir Ladies'
Academ^y. °
The country is delicious: a little bay very near Xew
llayen ; the sea on the right ; nice sailing parties riding at
anchor; a cluster of trees behind a pretty village; and a
church whose sharp steeple seems to pierce the sky.
154
NOTES OF A riAM^T.
Si.uisr.KiKU , Mass., Jmie 28, 18CS.
cuii»loycd here.
MATINEE.
Newark, June 30.
T \ Tmi» • 70 000. A rcmarkal)ly
(State of New Jersey) l^/ ;2cl^ mc of Holland,
aclivc «nanufactnnng town ij^^"-^'^u broken. Th.
tilled grounds.
BuBLixoTOS, Vermont, July 3.
A «mall town built on Lak. ^-t;:;ti','^^m^S
seen in Switzerland any bng ™>r*;^ J^^;^ ^ j^^,,! attracted
mountains which ^'"'^''^^.t/ll wUb oo^^ from 8t. Al-
many. Two steamers i^^fX\ a 4 am ^^^o^'^y ^^^
bans and a train ^'""^ J™^ ^'^^\^^ Episcopal Church,
iug ibool, aud a chapol iu Gotlnc .tylc
Es ROUTE FOR Montreal, July 4.
I ain haivpy to escape th^ricnse^ of the 4^ of^^ ^
smell Canada, or g^^/^^^^re r.^ W^^ to l>e Canadians
the station P^^^^^^^^XX & ^^^''^'^^ '''^'''^'
hy their aPP-«J 'mix^re of old Norman with the ex-
;!;SsKof MolSr^ ^e Canadians are behind the age
aiiTignorant.
inie 28, 186S.
lijiMt! to the
vi\ rifl'-'^ ill'*-'
vorkinon are
ARK, June 30.
, remarkably
. of llollainl,
troken. The
rollri itself in
mi.i:;ht think
id among the
ermont, July 3.
I have never
:it'ul than the
hatl attracted
e fr(»m St. Al-
d expressly for
scopal Church,
le of Chopin's.
take tea with
Iso an excellent
)f ' La Vierge k
iidsons are good
tr his house, on
It a large hoard-
MoNTBEAt, July 4.
4th of July. T
AV^e take up at
to l)e Canadians
le French which
nan with the ex-
behind the age
RAFTS ON ST. LA WRESCE. 155
10 o'clock. Arrived at xAfontreal. Tlie train stoi)i.ed at
the station opposite Montreal, which, as well as the lake
opened niagniticently on the sight. In the distance arc'
splendid huildings, among which we nuist mention Xctre
l>ame, a beautitul cathedral, with very tine steeples. We
cross tiie lake on a steamboat. AVe are hardly ten hours
m Canada, yet we have already met some specin'iens of that
surly, conceited, egotistic type, of which the English only
Jias (and it is tortuiiate) the secret.
From Montkkal to La Chink, July 5.
On the road I saw a tailor's sign, 'Hardes tonte faites.'
1 isoldtivnch. Arrived at La Chine. Opposite, on the
other shore, we see the church of a villaoe entirelv inhabited
l)y Li( bans c-j^nverted to Catholicism. ^It is call'-l Coylm-
awaggher. 1 he church, whose small cupola is covorcl with
coi.per, glistens 111 the sun like a minaret. The St. Law-
rence IS magniticent. We see some rafts desceiidii,.^ the
current, it is trightful to behold. They cut timber np the
bt. J.awrence and, to avoid the expense of transi.ortation,
they attach the trunks of the trees together and thus let
them Hoat to Ab>ntreal. Two or three men, with 'onir l-oles,
direct this sumular raft. It would make your hair staiul
on end to see these men guide them over the rapids of the
river; the ratt glances, rebounds, disappears ami.l the
toani, and passes the rapi.ls like an arrow. At the invita-
tion ot t iree oflicers of the Scotch Guards, we went in a
canoe as far as Alyarge Island ; two soldiers followed us in
a boat with provisions. The daughter of Trobriant, Aladam
Stevens, ot J3oston, Colonel Reid, and two Misses Reid ac-
companied us. We san- in chorus the quartette of ' Rigo-
etto. Ihe large wild Lirds flew away frightened by our
harmonious accents. Kam is the life of the company, as
u .V r L V'^' • " J"'^^' r'^ ^^^'•l Dmimore. The peasants
w ear buckles in tlieir shoes.
July 6.
Arrived at Quebec. Citadel on -he top of a cliff four
or hve hu.alred feet high, that comman<ls the harbour.
J he suburbs comnu-nce at the shore, but, to speak propcrl v,
1 nl' "/' '"''""•' '''\H *'^J^ "*■ ^•'^ J'i" 5 it is reached by
a Clocked, narrow, and silent street.
mmmmmimt^^'
150
yori-S OF A riANlST.
with i.m*t., .u.,1 ,'*'\'l;"™' :;'":;£ SWc..»..ltl;e
Btroets several of iny P^*:^;^*;; , „,,„thctic. Despi^^ed by the
The population is ugly ami «r'^^''^Yi In.mv
E.i'll.ll they return vt in ^-^^-^^^ jtX<l lV"ot above
On the terraee at ^"f ^^^' \""' n i« b retehed out, pro-
the bay, and at n.y ^V^^^ ^^.^^""^iVereeive the Bteeplu of
dueing a singular op u-a >7f *' \l^[,'i „,e. I can cast
S^Xr;:'^0n%n^4J afternoon it is the general
ber, the forests ^-^^^S^^..^^ I'C said, are very
two t1.oasand m^i. Tl^ ^^^l' ^'^^^^t au^^^^^^ Thus they
numerous, and exeitise a ^ tiy -, ,,^ circuses, puppet-
i^jfLirsrikSrtr:"",! «> ,^^,^ o. ..,0
nances, sallow complexions "^^^ f^^ J'^^^^eets (luite a num-
Et;«l>i*aif Json>i'LS:'i the cut of tUe .u.
CANADIAN riiONUNCtA TION.
157
iviilior is tViO
,ulalo vFiviu'h)
{\A (the Cuna-
•^ list of tlu-m
,n. Lonl i'iXi-
it tlie coiioort.
i are translatod
cts are orowdod
uiul, tlierc are
0, Sirtterrt of tlio
1, etc. The old
v'ed the luiine of
of the Eiiglisli
ces?
"concert, on the
vhistUng in the
Despised hy the
lusy.
lid red feet above
rcti-hed ont, pro-
ve the steeple oi
me. I('i»» ^^f
and look into all
X is the general
d, consists in tim-
irrison consists ot
uive said, are very
ority. Thus they
g circuses, puppet-
a to judge of the
el)ec— dull counte-
nien. The streets,
treets (^uite a nuni-
coats, Avith yellow
their waist. They
L the cut of the sur-
tout, which is too largo for tlicni, and the had sloovos recall
the cassock. Tliesi- are pujiils of the cojli'ii'i'.
Tile |tn>nunciation of the Canadians is ridiculous and ]ire-
tentious, the more so as thev think they spt'ak so well. Mr.
Caiichon was the Ministi'r of tiie Interior for some years.
Those are called demagogues here who have not contril»ute<l
to the suhscfiptions for the Pope.
J'aparn/ouais ein via (vieux) honlme jires du houis (hois),
(Canadian pronunciation). Mr. C'anchon laughs very much
at the ridiculous ]>ronunciation of the I'arisians, " Ra-
chail surt(»ut exagerait leu fran(;ais et lui ]!(i!i-A regretta leu
Canatla."
" Ses louais" (laws) are local; England has nothing to <>•
with them.
Jul-
Saw the interment of a sergeant of artillery, who ww.
killed hy a soldier. A detachment of the 17th Rif s ot
the artillery gunners, and one hundred sergeants, wi h<
start' orticers, acciniipanied the body, which was ])la<'e>i (>ii
a gun carriage. The music was lingular. The dnunmers
beat a roll which lasted one bar; then a rest for one bar,
and a blow of the bass drum on the weak ])art of the bar;
then a harmony of eight bars in the minor naxle, played
by tlutos in minor thirds. It was melancholy and mournful,
and tilled you with profomid emotion. I followed them for a
quarter of an hour, not being ahle to tear myself away from
the melancholy charm of this strange niusic. The sound
of the bass drum in counter-time, the rests alternating with
this luguhrious roll, the i)laintive melody of the ilutes, and
the slow rhythm marked by the tread of the soldiers, pro-
duced an ett'ect which I had never before imagined.
Quebec, July 9.
Review on the Esplanade. The troops are superb, and
of tine appearance. The Governor-general walked in citi-
zen's dress. The band of music is large, and has played
' Dixii',' which is very popular here, not only on account
of its melody , Avhich is very original, but because, being the
air adopted by the Confederates, they are delighted in being
able by this means of proving their sympathyfor the Soutli.
m
158
NOTES OF A /V.»>7.^r.
Af„. .1,0 -"■"\;.^:;.;':; J :r; 1 1™ ui;;:.,! ..i- 1'., ■
,„„1 „U .:,c..lH-.-.-, '' ;'^, ': 't, w l\,.Uam,i.,' m,uvlK.,l tl,»
AftiTllOOH, 4 OC.Mvk. lOOlv
Montrciil. , Lwliert- irmitly applnudctl. A
,,;i'l;i,!f':,l- ;;'„!;:;;\",:u!'a ;i:^'«,u a,>i.J „. .-
AV
urec-or" (Hi o'clock).
Loavo Montreal hy the tnvin for Ottawa.
July 11.
CANADIAN NAMKS OF PERSONS.
Aliraliaiu I'epine
Drol.'t.
Poulain.
L'lwit'V.
L(> hnnli-
Cansi' urnln.
(ii-.-.iiiT.
I'ns mill.
Ciiiiou (jngi')
Boauiiri''
, , La fontahiP.
Lnjiin. |,.^j„ ,luiiul(<lt>ctor)-
K!M>n'"(:'rainu...r.-1.ant).UM,u...au.
i.;/;;;;:".hu.ntagn«. J-achauc...
Boxi.T, J ,^ vigu.'ur (vi<.li"i''t).
La v(m!. jji^ chaiin.^ ((.iauist).
I'oiner. J j^ I,,.,,,, (organist).
J'-- '■"^V- L'arrivee.
I'diniiiiiT.
Lu meinour.
tenant of tl.e ^'-^^ti^e X tv^ o of 'rebel notoriety, u^
,nonth .go, on ^'^^'^^-'V ^Vl^T e\i^ . very near at first ben vg
vvvi,.gtornntUeblcH-kaae. liONa j ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^
taken by the Yankee.;, ^^^ j ^^ ,, ^^Jj Imnself.
f:^;;^Sn^:x:o-Si^--^
cer in the Sootcli FusiWeK. ,„,y u.
„.„t hero wl.Hlu --■:^;:? ;,;',^;V[' 'C;.;..,„hva .o aooom-
and
canoe. A>* i»i ^^ ashnigtc
Arrived at Ottawa. \''V^ ^'^'^^^n.^^ of the town,
ent here which, ^''^"^^^'^S'-"'?/ ^^'uVrr uired to accom-
:.l the nmnber of ^V-^^^^^^ ffin-n Crusoe;.
"F'
st.\(;i-i..M{ Tvr/: or n{/:\rn.]t.i\'.
i:)0
tho Quoon'
nl of honour
ours, iitfoiii-
munla-d tlio
itr i\nn?>, iiiitl
t'siglit. I'l"^
to R'turu to
iiilaiuU'tl. A
A mo "ouit-
July !!•
aiiiP.
iiiiitl (doctor)-
ati.
lice.
t.
uiHir (violinist),
iiniu^ (l.iauist).
1,. (organist).
VL'U.
Mity years, lie«-
lusod liirusolf a
(..\ notoriety, iu
■iir at tirstbeinji;
irt Bto[»l>e<l near
, iurttify himself,
/itv, i)'y making
•itii hirn. Kani,
,thcr yomig otH-
July 11.
I hotiso of parlia-
i^^^ss of the town,
.mired to aeeoni-
ohuison CrusoeH
irc seattered. It
IS n eify in prosiu'cf. From the station Iho convent of
(Jray Sisters, who e(hi<'atc voiiiiij jrirls, can he seen. I.s
cathe(hal is liamlsonie, and possessi's an ortran made in
Knirland at tlie cost of XITOO sterling. The IJishop is from
Marx'illi's -diis name is doseph (Ju'vircs. 'I'here is also u
college fory(Mmg men kept hy tho Uhlatu Fathers; u very
iiuna'rou.s order in Cunuda.
CILVrTEll XL
OfiDRN8nrnn, Sunday, July 12.
I WAS walking on the border of tho liivr St. Lawrence,
whoso tunndtnoiis waters rolled like th>> waves of the sea.'
The'Uallad to tho Moon,' by Alfred Musset, was recalK'd to
my n^uul on seeing tho sun go down. His deep red disk
drowned in the violet mist, appeared to hamr balanced on
tho lop of a church steeple, of which Iliad' a glimpse on
the Canadian shore. The night drew on, the air had a
delightful freshness, and tho streets wer.' o'ershadowed bv
large trees whoso thhk foliage im])arted an air of mvsterv
to all tho dwellings. A I'rotestant church concealed be-
hind a cluster of trees attracted my attention. The sound
of tho organ ami a liymu sung by female voices rose above
the silence and calm of tho night. Xotiiintr .(.nld be more
beautiful than this hymn; in spito of myself I was melted
to tears. It was Sunday's e\ening ser\ico.
En noi'TK FOR AVatku town, .July 13.
In tho cars was a crowd of soldiers and some Irishmen (/ans
Irfi ri</ii<s (hi m(/)>nir (drunk). ])ecidedly 1 do not liko
tho Irish; t|iey aro a rudo, ignorant, 8ii]ierstitious race.
AVatortown is a pretty spot. My concert has taken place
—a great success — received some l)ouqnets. There are many
French people living here, so many that a French paper,
"Lo jthare des lacs," is published here.
At Watertown I found a singular type of Frenchman,
lie gives lessons in dancing, in FreMc'h, singing, and fcn-
emg, and now and then is an impressario and aii agent for
;;;;r;mu. ' -v. ,!»-;;;:;;::,:';;;;:;':n':';'li ..'' > -i-" •:!';;
TouoNTO, July 18-
M,«„, .■...■or. unaor 'l^M^'^ri;;'-.''-- V-^^^^^^^^
Alllii'tl'™"",,'.' •,"> ,1,,,,' lli.m liomi.iinll, ll»->
Wiae his own workH. ^^^^^^^^ j^^^^ 32.
Clmrimnp; Vittle town. bocuf.btf.«, July 22.
, . n The mmimns of the military baud
^^''l'^''^ =' Ai-m-UN, July 23.
piS:,L. Magnmcont concert. ^^^^^^^,„^, ,,„,^ ,^.
I„ ,hc car. tVrcc rc™on» « J "f'U'u.g it- J?'"'"-
w
,, Ih. .jjivi'H t'oi"
veiling, July 15-
, to U'uvo at 11
(I my I'iaiio.
TouoNTO, July 1*-
,f Major (U-ncnil
iris woiv pivsi'Ut.
,,lavi"<U a trans-
1 Ho'uficaiilt, tho
is tlio most iiui'U-
.(ly, not a Fivnch
„.r tlu'in an<l l>'»t-
urultfratiourf they
Batavu, July 22.
BocuESTRR, July 22.
the military baiul
itinsjr for inc.
Aunnis, July 23.
\m eight huiulred
[jANASPAiorA, July 24.
r, 'lefl Miserahlos' in
roading it. C»nan-
l,.rs of Lake Canau-
utifal green laAm iu
77// I 'I r SIC
161
whos.' .viitiva laruf frc- covers witli its dark sIukIowk u
roiiuli >toiu' iimli'r which an Intlian, one of tlic last «tccii-
jiants (.f the country lut'orc the arrival of llic whiles, is
niternd. Ih- was an imlian Chief. Mr. Wood, who lirst
settled at Canandaijjjna, was his friend. He was an oM man
who died many viars ag<i. He had m-ver failed dnrintr lii'^
lile to iiaint wilii white every year the loml. of his frTend.
• iiiMivA, .Inly Un.
(Jeneva is situated on tia- ' ke, whieh is forty miles lont;
and time hroad. Immense eoiicert — an inundation of
lK.U(iUets. TIk' sIku-i's of the lake are exactly like those of
Lake (Jeni'vu (Switzerland land its wat«'r is so cold that i)er-
soiis drowned in it never rise to thesurfaiv. 1 spent thedav
at the house of the Rev. Mr. Kec!;, . verv well infornuil
jrentleman who keeps the eolleu'eat Walnut" Hill. He has a
tharminn- dwellini-' hiiilt of hniwn stone, eovered with iw
and Juoss. 1 took u sail m a yaeht (.n the lake.
July 2(i
On goin*; from (Jeneva to the extremity of the lake (in
a Hteamer) to take the train for Elmira, tlie most heauliliil
country in the world is seen. Vounu' girls from a lioardin-'-
school are on hoard, each one has'lier hasket tilled witli
(lainties. The mistress and her hushand carry a hasket
hlled with cold eatahles. They were iroing on a pi.nic
and left us at a charming little 'landing place. The thick
tufted trees threw their hranches almost to the water on
the edge of the lake. A white little church pierced
through the foliage of the hill. Shady ravines seeme.l
to mvite them to he seated. Decidedly these young girls
have chosen a delicious jiluee to iiass u eharming duy''un(l
dnie U]ton the grass.
Elmiua, July 2G.
Gave a concert, and (hy the hye) have conducted mvself
Iiadly towards the audience. It is true that the audience
did not «, serve hetter treatment.
OsiVKfio, .Filly 29.
Passed four houi-s at Syracuse on the road. A prettv
good concert at Oswego. Fonnd there the excellent J5arrv,
14* ^ ■
A'
III
i^'j
-■ - ^sm. ' i'^i t ^fmm
1..
m
162
NOTES OF A PIAXIST.
and his noat, pretty wifo, as aiiiiablo as ever. Great en-
tlmsiasiii. The eoiinnerce of Oswejjo eonsi^^s in hunl)er tor
buiidino's, and idl sorts of grain. Xoar Oswego is the
greatest" lionr-inill probably la existenee. Jiast yi-ar it
grouinl 550,000 barrels of tlour. 1 took a walk on the shores
of Lake Ontario, which is a vast bine ocean. On my lett a
ton<nio of land, coveretl with thick shade, ran out into the
blue mirror of the lake. On my right stands Fort Oswego,
with its wooden wharf. 1 was on a steep clitf, about one
hundred feet high, which looked out ou the country
around me.
Rome, .July 30.
Neat little village, but I will, nevertheless, ne^er go
there again.
Utica, July 31.
A charming town of 27,000 inhab'vants. All the houses
have in frontal green grassplot. The streets are lined with
trees, which give a |iark-like appearance to the town. Ivy
covers the houses, and its festoons reach to the roots, tail-
ing back gracefully over the windows. x. ■. • n
^rhey say that McOlellan, under the influence of his old
sympathies, and the memories of his comradeship with the
Southern irenerals, who, for the most part, were his iriends
and schoolfellows, has not pushed the war as vigorously as
tliey had a riiiht to expect from him. ^ ou must recolect
that .Trlierson Davis was Secretary of War at the period ot
the Orimeaii war, and that it was he ^vho tirst tlisc-oyered
the merits of Cai)tain McOlellan, and sent him to Sebas-
topol, where he made himself known by the sagacity ot Ins
observations and the depth of his judgment m the report
on that celebrated siege which he ma(h; to his government.
Others say that he is in tavor of slavery, and c()nse(iuently
less hostile to the South than he is to the Republican party
. of the North; the party l)y which, for some tune, the
President seems disposed to be mfluer.ced. It is said
that treason lurks in tliebiu'hest region of our government,
and that, obedient to the sympathies of the family, McCjeb
Ian has revealed, at manv times, the Federal plans betore
Kichmond. I know nothing about it. So many absurd
MADAM STErilEX /'
it;;3
\-or. Groat en-
's in hunhor tor
Oswego is the
Jiiist yi'ar it
ilk on the shores
1. On my left a
ran out into tlio
lis Fort Oswego,
clitt", about one
on the country
Rome, July 30.
heless, never go
Utica, July 31.
All the houses
its are lined with
) the town. Ivy
;o the roofs, fall-
tluenee of his old
•adeship with the
, were his friends
r as vigorously as
ou nuist reeolleet
ir at the ^leriod of
n tirst diseoveved
lit him to tSebas-
rlie sagacity of his
out in the report
o his government,
and conseipiently
Republican jiarty
r some time, the
need. It is said
if our government,
he family, McC'lel-
dcral plans before
tjo many absurd
and contradictory things are said that it becojnes mvc^^Mrv
to renounce ail opinion founded on rumours, and admit m.lV
fliose probabditics which are approved hy the stri<-tcst
good sense and the most rigorous moderation.
Clevelaxd, Sunday, Nov(>nilicr 2.'?.
It snows, it blows, the lake is furious; Avaves of muddv
watcr rise no like mountains, and roll and sj.read themselves
in_ sheets of loam on tlie shore, on which they first l)reak
\yith a crash. I hear their roarimrs in mv chamber. Xo-
thjng can give you an idea of the gloom with which it in-
spires me. Sunday is always a sjylenetic davin all I'rotestai-t
comitries but in Cleveland it is enough to make von com-
mit suicide. Lake Erie is dani.-erous at this season; like
alj the great lakes of America, it is a sea, plus tornadnes of
wind and the dangers of the coast, whic'i arc multiplied in
consequence of the proximity of the shore.
Novomlier 2!.
In going from Cleveland to Detroit Ave mot in tin. car
Madam Stej)hen T) , the wife of the famous Senator
who contested the presidency with Lincoln, and made him-
selt the leader of a groat party. The bi.autv and elctrance
ot Uadain I) ha\e jiassed info a proverb, and are as
celebrated as the eloquence of the Senator, who has been
dead tor nearly a year. She still possesses great beautv,
appears to be about twenty-five yeai-s of ace, although \\vy
intimate frien.ls (alasl Avho has them mit?) i.retend that
she IS past thirty. IFer sti-ictly black costume; her botmef,
trom rt-hich poops out the widow's cap of while tulle, li.ar-
velously sets off the beauty of her complexion and the
regularity of lier fc^atures. She is a woman such as doubt-
less the Greeks imagined when they consecrated a A\-orshi]i
to beauty, and, after having once seen her, it is more ditH-
c'ult to forget her than to have her alwavs present to the
imagination.
Toledo, November 20, 18t!2.
INothhig intorosting. Audience stiqud. In tlu" Artist's
Room there was a bill attached to the wall: "If, before
commencing the concert, the i)oi-forniers do not pav the
rout of the hall, the porter has orders from the i)ropi-f( toiv
!'.^
I'f
r?
^g^ NOTES OF A PIAMST.
fn turn off the "-as." Tluit does net give u,-* ii very jiigh
Llo • the 1 onosly of the artists Vho have i..rtbnued he-
foie ?l.o T<1 'liau\.ul,lic, or of the liherality ot the ama-
teurs of the town.
Nov««il)or 27.
Goino- fnnnT..le(lo to Erie (Penn«ylvama), on a^w't "jar
,ne h he smokin-c-ar, some fanner, without douht, pluNe.l
t eife ITestnaie.lc(mscieutiously. Ilisstoc^kot luusirwas
nhe;i to some Seot<-h and Irish airs. Only he I'lay- ej^ry-
t i - in F. I slioukl have seen nothu^j; aniiss in it if he
W not invariahly taken it hito his he.d t<. l'l=>y >- j-;
instead of B flat. At tiie heginmng I was ^^f 1;^ ; 1^;
leno-th I was suiumlarly pleased with it Ihe ^'J li^^;"^;
not^ nee intro.luee.l there was a fight hetween tl>e C ,im
F wli -li hy turns, seeming to dispute the possession ot the
' ii^nk ;a,ui mehu;eholy lmrniony,phinged me n>to^^^
reverie I sa^^' unfolcUnl hefore my eyes all sorts ot eli. nn
n" hVmrs, without douht, since they ravished ^ne as lo.ig
as inv rA-erie laste<l, hut I was not ahle at erwards to reea 1
JhJn. The Seoteh melodies are, aocording to ^^^.y J'^^'^J^
se whieh have the most -character; it is, m truth, the
n sic of the mountains and of fantastic legends. I d i-
c<^er in it the reflection of the Scottish character nn^stujil
exalted, very superstitious, poetic, dreamy, and amM. Its
n'erv s of a fourth, aiul the fre<iueiit employment of the
1 .1 chord, the rhvthm weakened hy the ahsence ot ac.en-
ti^cd oaderoes, powerfully contrihute to give them their
eCcter of strmlge melancholy and of twilight poesy.
Erie, Pennsylvania, Novembor 27.
Three or four days a^o, hehig at Cleveland at the hotel
Ai -' er (the most frightful, filthy eatuig-honse m the
woi^d) I ^vas looking" through the window and saw a
some aistance a small cemetery. A rector, to whoin I had
Si troduced that morning, told ine respectmg this suh-
Pct that the cemetc.ry had Hn- many days heen the theme
S c< ivei-sation, that every night for a week past a gho
?ook his pastime there, ""^-^ 'f --^ured even nito Ae
streets. Some women were said to have seen it 1 he sto. }
appeared foolish to me, like all ghost stones. Nevertheless
1
THE WARRANT i)F ARRK.'iT.
165
fj a \-ovy liiu'li
K'dbnut'd be-
,' of tlio UlUll-
Novi"tjil)or 27.
on a rii-at near
doubt, iilaVL'd
kot'imisii-was
' iilaycd t'vcrv-
niss ill it if lio
J (lay r> natural
hocked, but at
'he oVilitt'i-ated
'WW the C and
^ssession of the
ne into a sloojiy
sorts of charm-
ed me as long
•wards to recall
r to my mind,
's, in truth, the
legends. Idis-
•acter, mystical,
and wihl. Its
)loyment of the
,l)sence of accen-
rjive them their
ilight looesy.
lia, Noveinbcir 27.
nd at the hotel
ir-house in the
low and saw at
, to -whom I had
pecthig this sub-
; l)een the theme
L!ek past a ghost
I even into the
en it. The story
c's. Xevertheless
T read ma ( Icyr and pai^T tliis eveniiio- tlie followin-^
article: 'Last night two J rish servants met tlic gliost (Pf
the ..omctery u, Knc Street. The fright Mj.ieh th'se poor
girls received has been such that one of them fainted, and
the other has l.ad a nervous attack, which still conthiues,
and places her lite iii daiiirer.
Saxpi-sky, Oliio, Dccciiili(.r 4.
Small town and very strange audience. The ai.i.lause
nmch'''*'''''^'' "*' '''^'^'^^"'^"' ''■^''^•'^ frighteucl Patti \ery
• i'; ^^''\ ;*''■ 1'"^"'"' ^ ^'"V^ ^^'^"^ ^" ^ni^J<^S I fiiHl myself
m the midst of a mountam of trunks. I end by s,|uafti„.r
down among them, from whence I hear the conductor <a'v
to Ins c.mpanion ''I have there two emhahned bodies T'
Imagine what 1 felt !
Zanesville, Ohio, Decomb.-r f).
There were many soldiers in the audience. The liotel
Xin^ passable and the landlord did all he could to be a<n-ee-
al.l.. to us. I b.rgot to mention a remarkable incident at
Sandusky. Purmg the concert a warrant of arrest I'or me
bec-ausc I had not paid the license to the town. "Very
well ; Let us pay the six dollars, and I do not -o to i.rison ''
Ihese thmgs are aniusing, an.l break the monotonv of our
existence. I bad just linisbed 'Murmures EoliensV whic^h
the public, had encored. I returned into the artist's numi,
and h.und rnyself in the presence of the constable. Oh '
the mstabd.tv of human things. On the one side irlory!
on tlH3 other t^.o sombre dun-eons of Sandusky. The\ a|;i-
ol ami the Tarpeian Kockl Strakosch, the new Dccius,
has otlered himselt uj., and, thanks to six dollars, has saved
me Irom the horror of ca[itivity.
December 6.
In going from Zanesville to Columbus, after seekin.r in
vain for a seat in the smoking-car, I found myself hi a* car
fille.1 Avith nien badly clothed aixl with long heards. I
bought at first that they were recruits, but Teamed that
they were prisoners of war, an.l had no more doubt on tlio
subject on hearing one of them whittle 'Dixie.' iv^t hav-
Jp,
1(3G
SOTES or A PIASIST.
i,., any .cat I was inviu.! U ^y^^^;;;;^ ^'^^ 2Z
oM torn hat and an '{I' ,J/, '^^ ^.^ u W'lni: iVoni his re
youn- man ^vas nmi \ rg n, an.l, . . i^i^avionr
i,K..nnannors, ^'^'^'^f ^''\^ .^.^X,^ ^ s. Th.v ^vor. all
sin^-nlarly -'''^r^^ V' , Vo ^ c H Vrs anJ scldiors of the
,„,;i,r the guanl () ^''TV; > h ir on.l .-• One of tlie
rnitcl States ^^'^^ -^^S'^'^,^;! ^V^^,^^^^ gave a
soldiers hought hyo cents ^^^^^ * ^"J,,.^,,,! it wifh t'.vo
l,n,aful to one of the 1>V^7^ ';; ^^^"Ju-e om something,
'•vluM- companions. V'"^;:*^." n - ^^"^ ^^vseli' These
l.at was atVaul rom i<f •• .^ ^ ^^' "^,urterenee u.d s*oi-
pily impressed on their countenances.
I. it not singular tluit An^nc^ns ^v1k>^cc^ t^ P-- J
clear and practical judgmen; » * f ";^\; '\,, . , ,,. ent^r
power 'or understandmg r[nK-iples, as soon as v
into the donuun of the j^^^^^^' j;' ^«t^.^,^;. ; ' , ..ood sense
go astray, and repeat «i>-"-'}^^^ [^j^^ ^ u' h. -crretlections
should make them reject? ^ '/^^,,;',''\,, ,,, magazine re-
on readwig an article o'^l'^^^^V V/^"' ;" ,,,, the •'•eneral
Suu-kable tor the talent of ff^^l^^^l^l M<^dhly.'
tone of its articles. I refer ^^ /I''; .;^,;''^^^,,^,, ,, talented
The author of this ^rtic eJmnselt av -^ a^-^t do ^^ ^^^^^^
writer, Judging ^--^-^^tltir ^mi^Si^ Ibr those
oomimts so many 1-. n.acis tiul u ,^ ^i,^^jmee of
,ompetent in th- ^'^^^;\P^™^1,*^'% V, , ,^erity, as a
the ie^.l.rity of . l^Unu . mi, whoM^ nt k to ^ y,
musician, is, I tea., a« ^^^J^'VV,; ^^^ ;:^ „ ,,,e. And,'lirst,
of IJarnum to have hecn Wa^hmgo s n ^^^^^
what would you say ot an «'^ T^^^^ ^^Ji^ory, of five
exact a repetition, ma.le 1^' ;^ f ^ \ ^1^ /i^ once? You
or -xt1.ousa.u words whch^-;l- ^^ ^^^^^^^
cert^nnly would say, that an .m k altogether as
fnmi memory such a long 'li^^''^^"^;, , ."^'V ^vertlK'lcss my
phenomenal as the pl^^'-^^^f ^';^ ;^ ;,t U^i^i words famt
hypothesis is hased upon ^^^Vfl'*^;;^; J,,^' ^ ,vinc. relati.Mi
id even to the ears o a e uh on - j^^,,^^^^ ^^,, i, ,,
to human passion, to it^ inTtic u
BUM) TOM,
167
iidscnie iMl^w
1, lie bill! an
KMilder. 'Hil^
J iVoiii liiri I't?"
ilis Iteluivionr
Tln'V won- all
soldiers of the
■. One of the
i-n, anA irave a
.(\ it with two
em somothiuir,
myself. Thise
renee Unil ^toi-
•ar have unhap-
;em to posses;^ a
;,u ait ;n'(linary
u a*4^- '^^y enter
,1- the lao.^t part
heir good sen^e
tho-e retieetions
a vuag-azine re-
iin<l *he general
a:,!i.' Monthly.'
doi'j! atahiuted
maiiV erroiv and
lossible for those
jr continuance of
o posterity, as a
f the old negress
iirse. And, iirst,
should declare
memory, of live
[hut once? You
,ahle of verifying
1 he altogether aa
Nevertheless my
is in words farni-
rs having relation
bctions. that is to
sav, oil things wliich all conipreliend, know, and \'vv\, Jhit
with Tom wc liave to deal with music, tliat is to sav, an art
whose suhtilty must necessarily escape tlie profane. " 'Tom,'
says tlie autlior, 'repeats tlic pic'ce iV.ini meniorv.' This i'^
Hupposmg, what is not proved, tliat Tom had iio"knowle(hvo
ot the piece ; what was the piece ? If it was siniplv one of
those known melodies with its invariahic dress of varia-
tions consecrated by long usage, T sliall astonish no person
In; remarking, that any diild studying; music and endowed
witli a good musical ori,''anism, does as much vwvy (hiy
If tlie i.iece is difHcult and complicated, I absolutely chab
lenge the competency of the i.ul)!ic to judge the correct
accuracy of its reproduction. The writer of the article
will pardon me for telli'ig him that he recalls to me an
audience that I saAV assembled, to be jiresent at a most ex-
traordinary thing that a mathematical i)henomenon was
about to perform, which was instantaneously fi-om memory
to resolve the most complicated jiroblems. ':Mr. Ampet-e of
the Academy proposed a most diihcult problem to liini.
J he infimt prodigy gave him an answer, and tlie audience
applauded with contidence to the skies, lie might have an-
swered whatever he wished, the honest people dul not know
a word of algebra, and ingenuously thouirbt that what they
heard was really marvellous. I will go'further and aiHrm
that 'Yankee ])oodle' can be played 'in five hundred, six
hundred, or one thousand dltterent wavs, proA-ided tlie
theme is generally preserved, without more than ten in he
audience perceiving the least ditference.
December.
Invariably at every concert a small note of Tattcs de
:jIouches' mpiests me to i)lay ' Last Hope.' The other
day I received one comiwsed as follows: "Mr. G., voui' -;i
t'il l)ien faire le plaisir a 3(5 jeunes filles de jouer la ' i)en ^ e
Esperance' qu'elles jouent toutes."
At Cleveland the cold is intense, the north wind M'<,vs,
the lake roars. To comi)lete our misfortune we o-o ,.avii
to the 'Augier House,' where it appeal's that the '^)l. I pro-
prietor has sold out, and the new lias not yet takci i.osses-
siou ; wx> fall uito an interregnum, that is to say, soK.ething
T
I
^^.g NOTES OF A PfAMST.
„1,H, U not -an4,y,.™t,-<™-!'|;;'X Jl^tt
g„anl in tW 1«-'P; J"';^ i! t, Xa ' .t,"mi,ml.C list
N,.v..,-tla.lc.s. w.. final Iv ..l.tau, ; fV/,,;'' .,,,,, t not
:v,;!a't b-vl' :;li"l'-cl. ^venturing u . ival mnark,
we arc insulted.
MvnisoN, Wisconsin, December, 18G2.
olic-) and the marble capitol are superb.
December 12, 1862.
Mon.c.i,no„r ti.e A,-.,i.w,o,, of c''n™:-;;,„f,v?';i:;!;;j:
produces upon the masses, i^^ J ^^ ^"\^ ^.^, ,,,.,.,., hi,vu.?
.icn to tl.e discussion ^^ /^^^^^^^^^^^^^ heard that
Itali.m --^^V„i^\;:;r; 1^ ^^^illsllop in a theatric.!
an actor wh.. *^"^'^\//'',^, V''*^ „the ri<.ht arm during tlie
play was struck with I '""'^^/^fV/nd "lie ad.led, r>ehold
toin-es.>tation-''a pid^nt of <^^^^;^^ ^, u.Ued
-;-;StLM££^^^
tiers ot ignorant L Itramontanes.
Bosidos, the
liotol wo are
intervals un<l
s too soon tor
you stand on
in at a uivi-u
■nninal)!*' list
i\ any of tlioni.
,atitte. but not
■e ])rutU'nt not
in tlio ratio of
iviul remark,
December, 18G2.
voars old, and
itliedral (Catli-
uember 12, 1862.
iti last Sunday
near the tenor.
•tises tolerance,
sipirit of Turi-
ous that ho can
ottVH'ts whieh it
iniself for never
or never having;
11 read a play of
; to his aiulienee
', and made allu-
Meaux with an
A'ing heard that
ip in a theatrical
- nrm durinsz; the
added, F^hold
ni in the United
of the Shakers;
louters of eamp-
erannuated thun-
! I have visited
IIUS/I KMKIRA TIOX.
1(19
Canada and have been able to ineasuj-e tlic dej^ree of bnitish-
ni'Srf to wliich the al)soluto reiyii of I'aitli as'understood by
tlie -Nhiri.st futliers and the ISulpicians can lead a people, I
tremble, on sceinu; tbe Irish emii>-ration increased in a ratio
tliat threatens to overrun the whole L'nited States; it is the
saddest of all on account of the ignorance, tho brutal in-
stincts, and the blind and ferocious superstition of all the
Irish. I however do not know whieh I should fear the more,
the fanatics of tho liible or the fanatics of Rome. The i'uri-
taiis are as ral)id as the monks of the tifteenth century. They
think only of proseljy-tism, and of the propagation", in sjiite
of everything, of their iiiitli. Like all other fanatical sects,
they have forgotten the; spirit to attach themselves to the
mere letter. In 18.')fi, in the State of Xew York, individual
suliscribers had furnished more than onelunidred thousand
dollars for tho purpose of printing Bibles ! It is impossiblo
to be serious in thinking on the" results obtained bv these
immense efforts! Fifty tliousand Mibles sent to "(Miina,
six thousand liibles to ChancU'rnagore, tivt' thousand little
books to the coast of Africa— and in Eiii^lish. Is it not a
monomaiua, and ought not this wav of untierstanding
religion to be cured by cold-water batlis?
Indianapolis, I)ecoml)€)r If).
Alongside of my own chamber I have that of a major,
who has been sit-k for two months. He is under an indict-
ment for disobeying the orders of liis superior. Ff)ur
soldiera are on guard in tho corridor, and two sentinels
gnard_ his door. Tho State of Indiana has a formidable
1 larty in favour of the rebellion. One of the soldiers couijhed
horribly. I offered him a lozenge, which has cured mcTof a
cold ihmi which I was suffering greatly for some da vs. He
accepted it with thanks. At tho moment of swallowiu"- it.
one of his comrades said to me, distrustfully, " Ah, li;
a I are
you not a secessionist! We shall die soon enous^h without
your coming to poison us." Poor unfortunates'!
The snow has been let loose over the whok' countrv that
I have travelled through for the List two days (IVoni Ken-
tucky to Indiana). I "think with heart-breaking of the
wretched men in the iield ; of thousands of men'without
shelter, sleeping on the snow, and not ha\ing even a blanket.
15
5!jf
170
NOTKS OF A iV-lAVSr.
! ; . .um.vnt^. Uur aVtilUTy al.. h nmn.nsc, and I do
not Uovc- that finer i-oxM he louiul in iMjrope.
F r t' ur lay« the tolof^Taph ha. hcen gnu.g us eventful
now ot "re t^natlo uhtd> i. h.ing lonj;'ht at 1^ rc-.lenek -
,^. Tin' whole tWrc-e of two great armies are engj.ge •
'n^resi 1 i-^ still un.Uri.le.1. Thr earnag. will he trightiul.
^'^-^S' ing>.hu- audien,.. I n.et with! ^__. on .an unagjue
.-1 yi I'p^U u din o iuti;^.. nn.st he, whi.h, i^.un.led
m f^^n m' e ght years a^o, nevertheless give receipt. <>f
?1 v( oi four Imndred dollars, and sometimes inore. 1 he
^ Ui ^en^ an honest former asked me, helore the ec^nec.^
Pnling to my piano, what t^uit M.ig ^--J^-- ^ ^^^^^ ^
da.H-iug whieh, lor two hours and a M^^^tf ^ f^^ou h^
un inexhaustible mireo of amusement. Ihey weie on
front henches, and greatly auiK)yed uie.
\Vhnt witl diilieulty T become accustomed to aie the
;r„:^'h^;. .bo" S L ..ot .W,,,,.! o„ly in .1,0 oonoo.t
, me olv siwik of tliom by way of Im-monab
tbo ba-aat'O oav »"<! t'lo 1"«. oar ot tbo tpni. ( oita n n. t
. lisSmTon.l tliat inscots rctioct in tlion- i>by»lol<.gloul oon-
U^ctl. eSeuds a. lar a. piuidst.) I ought to have the gait oi
mi old lionton-
ly inspL'otcMl in
t'tc'on now ivgi-
ago he told 1110
oiisc, and 1 do
[)po.
iiig us eventful
t lit Fredericks-
j8 are eutjiiged.
nil 1)0 tVigh'tVul.
■()\i can iniagino
which, founded
give receipts of
IK'S more. The
sfore the concert,
rdeou was." Ho
the tail hothercd
'ille, a charining_
ssed the whole of
lid not know the
outs only a kind
unitary stops in
or, afforded them
riiey wero on the
omed to are the
f is heri' aii[ilauso
mus and the voice
rse to whistling,
in-ive late at the
nruUUe of a piece,
for a hattalion of
1 talk during the
lily ill the concert
memorial,
iincwhere l)et\veen
liii. Certain natu-
physiological con-
\vgotation upon
this peculiarity of
to have the gait of
If
GOTTSCIIM.K AUOVT TO MA/my. jy|
n locomotive and the intelliu-onco cf i, hand-hex \II
notions ..t tune and sjiace arc etl'acod fn.m my mind, .hist
Ike tJio drunkanl, cf wlu.iu seme one asked tlio distance
Ijotween tlic Chaussee d'Antiii and the I'orte .St. Jknis
W.O replied, -ten small ^lassc^." If vou ask mo wha^
tunc It 18, 1 will reply, "It is time to shut up mv trunk "
or ; is time to play the banjo," or "It is time t. put ..'.i
my Mack coat." Those throe events arc vei-v noarlv the
most mon,..,a ,lo of my daily existence. I <.„,.s„le niyself
by thinking that I am not the only one of my spcries.
CmcAoo, December 20.
L>i?.ll':!.yi''i''^ '"av-,!" ^^^i')^-""'^'^'^^ P'M't-'- (^^'is<•onsi„) that
Auii.iKl htorr W illis, m his magazine of '(Jikv a Month '
ai'noM,ic,.s that "(jottschalk is, it is said, about to marry u
young lady-a millionaire-of Xew York." JVrmit mo to
assort that the news is not true, h'eci.iv,. the assurance of
It, n mv Inonds, with all the affliction winch I have in
pving It t(. you. No, alas! \ have not this moment the
least hope of ever attaining that oasis in life which is called
mai'riage. I have not yet arrived at tiiat blest haven, where
after so many storms and t-mposts I might cast anchor, and
my ,P>;>H-ceo/>,da>tciH a myth, uhich, as I advance along
tlie iirul path of celibacy, becomes more and more faI)ulous.
is It not sad.^ and are we not worthy of j.itj-— we old
bachelors who, ike stray travellers, see the fatal time draw
near wlioii we sjiall remain alone on the road of life ? ^Vo
must travel the desolate way whi.ai still separates us f.'om
the sovoroigi, goal, without a holy love to partake our joys
and our griefs, or a friendly arm to sustain us in our last
ilOU''S.
Xot being al)le to do better, I console myself by tliinkine
on the muse, the eternal bri.lc .Iways young, always con-
stant for those who lovo her,and whose .'baste caresses defy
the outrages of time. For her, there are no old bachelors,
no wrinkles, no white hairs, no winter ..f life, but the per-
petual sprniir-time of ilh.sions. 8ho .weetly shigs in my
heart lUiirve lous things which ravish, console, and sootho
niy griot, and her seductions are „^ powerful at the close as
at tlie dawn.
■Hut I i.orcei\-e that T liavo become pathetic, and after
r
.-2 SOTHS or A riAMST.
invih t.) whom I am .uiiajiv.!. j
'iWtwoeu S.)iith Am.Ti.-aan.l tlu" I nitul ^^-y*^ " ' ,
mwM was iiiv ti-a to (hue 'e/'w^/e/r \n Uli an (> huuu ■
'■■■"'■' 'rr ''X:" '"t,>, ' Un.S '"wX ;';'; anxi,., he
J.
f
< /IKWaO A.\/> MII.WM Kit:.
17;3
.liislu's,M'fniiii!i;
VI' ju.*t wrilli'H,
lias litrii ail "lil
ciiniiici- iK'ri'>il'i-
ilio initial (.t'tlio
States it lias so
a.l, tiiat if "MJy
•Vi'iits, (•!' wliifh
I, I should liii\«-'
o\vs, ami shtiiiM
to Utah to avoid
lo;:;islatioii.
le till- poor devil
ij»ty stoiiiai'h and
III oimli'iit iiohk-
rdad. The tal)U'
(I vossols of jrold
astor of the house
hnis de tiiisan is
fasto of this wine
lascus are divine,"
jsentud the plates
, and wine from
rd of Hajrdad pre-
, foi-tuiiate follow!
and, ahovc all, do
iroeeed.
1 i!^ suffering the
ties and deeaiiters
t ]ireveiit the host
i-olish the empti-
s witli anxiety the
lore fortunate, hut
list of all the usual
hadow of any food
he- tahle, his spirit
i of this iuiagiimry
inorc liiniiri'v than
repast, hilt with iiiipty slonmch an'
t'Vt'l'.
I am the dervish and the newspapers wlii.h niairv ine
to tiiiK'iful youiig heiiv-ses are so many opulent iiuhli'meh
of iiagdad, and yoii will discover llie moral to my eost
without my assistance, and as I slmll lie accused of writing
williout any reason what possesses as little siihstance as the
repast oH'cred to the dervish, I hasten to speak ahoiit my
eonrerls at Chieago, which have heeii very suhstaiitial as
t'> liie ■• • I have given tlu'n four concerts, and must
retiir. le ( Hiiorrow to give the tinii and last. Chicau'o,
of all ihe Western cities, is the one which most resemliles
New York. It is animated and tlourisliing, one feels tli.il it
is young, full of sap, and asks nothing hetter than to enjoy
life. It possesst's (aste and enthusiasin, I think of a hiu'lier
standard than all the other cities in this section of conntrv.
What I also prefer \\\ it is that it is exempt from that pro-
vincialism which oiu' leels the more in proportion as one
leaves the intellectual focus of tlie I'nited States.
The ludies wear licre heautiful furs. The commerce in
furs is eonsiderahle. They come hy land from the IJussian
possessions iii^\merica. The ladies who always possess u
fertile inventive genius when it concerns then- clothing,
have foiind means to render their enormous t'lir lioniieTs
^U-racenil, in which they miitHo themselves this winter.
These hats remind me of the skin cap of the drum-major,
hut Hatt.'r and terminating in a kind of fox's tail wliich
hangs over the neck.
The stores are immense. In one hlock alone I eounted
live tiishionahlc warehouses which are each five stories hiirh
and employ from eighty to one hundred clerks. The sin'rill
merchants from the interior of the ti-rritories among the
iSrornions como here at the hegiiming of winter to inaki-
their [airehases.
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, has 00,000 inhahitants, splendid
residences, ])arks, marhle fountains, etc. A female furrier
j.aid me a visit. She is the daughter of the Comtesse de
~- 9" learning that I knew the Grande Duchesse Anne
de Kussio she however hecame more reserved, and I thoutrht
she was afraid that I might discover that her title,"" of
which she makes here a great display, is uot as legitiuiate
15*
'f:
i .
1 1
174
SOTKS OF A I'LWfST.
ns luT Alsatinn iw.vnt which hIh- it. vain nought to .■...ktuI.
It is .vi.mrkal.l.. that >,h..o.t nil the K.issuu.s u h<. ...v ...
A.n.ri.-.. nn ('......ts, just as ah..ost all th. '''''^l!'''';; ^^^ '"I
Miiitlt'lsrtohii.
CllAPTKH VTT.
Nrw York, Duc«m1)«T, 1802.
I „ \v..; iust tiiiisht..! (it is hnnlly two hou.-s suu. _1 have
a.-.MVi'.l ill' Now Vo.-k) .ny last to...- ot (•....(■(«.-ts loi' this >i-a-
so uv. uivc... c.iohty-tivc. .-...■o.-ts ... to...- ..,o„ths a.. I
alf. I hau. t.-avc.iK.rtiftcr., tho..sa.>.l .....Ics o. ho ....1-
...a.l At St. Louis r travo sc-vcii (-....(v.-ts ui six <la,ys; a
' i ,.n,, live, i., fou.- .lays. A tbu- wcrUs n.o.v u. this way
a, r^houl.l have hm.me an i.liot! 1 .j-. lee., ho... -s a ; a
"the n.ilroaa! A.-.-ive ..t sc-ven o Vloek ^ - ;;-; ^2'
oat with all si.ee<l,ai.i.ea.- at ei.uht o eloek heU iv the imhU .
Tho lust U.>te ti..isl[e;i, .-..Sh quiekly to." ...V l"^'^f ^N/ .
rn ro„te ..ntil next <h.y to .veo.nn.e.ue always the >.
thiuL'l I hav. l.eeo..,e st,.i.i<l with .t. T have the ai^e -
ue . of an a..to...ato.. ..n.lei- the iutineuee ot a yolta.e p.le
M tin^-ers n.ove o.. the keylx.anl with love.-.sh heat, and
?. the ...o.uent it is not ,.ossihle for n.o to hea.< the n.ns.e,
w tl.ont exnei-ieu.-in- son.ethhi- of the sensation ot th t
,! ..>• AuLule.- i)„nias .///>•, eo...len...ea tor o.ie n.ou 1.
t.,,at uothii,.^ l.nt ,.i..eo,.._ The si^ht ot ^^-^^^^'^
hail- on e.i.l like the viet.ni u. •l..vsenee ol the ^^ heel (
• U-h he is ahout to he to.-ture.l. Wh.lst my h.,,irers are
t s .n<.vin,% my thought is elsewhere. Ilai.l..er ha,
V pool- nu,el,i,.s it ti-avei-ses the tieal, a-id .ees again t We
clJa.' Antilles, where I -a^•e t.-an-imlly a lit le ..mee.-t eNe j
two or three nonths eomfortahly, without tat.o-u...g iny-^^'^n
where I slept for weeks the sleep of the spirit, so aelie.ous
^ pootieal in .he n.i.lst of the volnptu.nu. a..d enerva n.j^
atmosphere of those happy lan.ls of the vl). .lee tar niente
" juwe la/.v hree/es m..r.iu..-ing softly hear o.. the..- wn.gs
the lunguid and di.ta.it harmonies of the eouutiy, and whose
Itjllt to COlHTlll.
iiiis u lio iirt' ill
iiiiisiriaiis wild
< of S|iolir ami
, nt'CciiilxT, 1B«52.
)iirs mwv I liiivc
•crts t'o!' this M'li-
foiir iiioiitlis au«l
iiik's oil tlu- niil-
iii t*ix <liivs; at
more in this way
ilccn hours a <lay
: ill tho owning,
lit'lorotht'imhrK'.
my hiiijrairt'i iii"l
always the samu
liavo the aiiiaar-
of a voltaic pil*-'.
c'voi-ish heat, ami
o hoar tho mnsic,
sensation of that
(I for Olio month
' a jiiano sots my
> of tho whool on
1st my lintroi's are
liai>l>ier than
1(1 sees a<i;ain thoso
ittlo coiioert every
t iiitigning myself,
qiirit, so tlolioions,
ins and enervaliny;
■ Dolec far nieiito,'
r.\r on their winy-s
jonntry, and whoso
V<'T-».1.
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
if 1^ m
I ^ Ilia
H: 1^ 12.0
1.8
1.25
1.4
1.6
.,1 6" —
►
"^
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
S
q
V
mc
^ss
\
\\
23 WEST MAIN SI SEET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
k
%
6^
'Q.
CIHM/ICMH
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Series.
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microfiches.
Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques
W!
wwiBiM iii JumiiawtJi i iWi^w!^^
"*^f
THE CHARMiya YOUNG GIRL.
(.J
quiot and droaniy 1)inls soom novor to jirouse from tlio con-
toiiii»liiti<)ii of ail tho inarvi'ls of tliis tiTrt'strial paradise
(.■xcrpt to lovo and to slcvj.. What an awakcnini!; for nie
aitcr five years of tliis trojiical gypsy life!
Tho libertines ].lease tliomseUes witji peopliiiij their
panidise with a crowd of imaginary liouris. 1 do not
imagine mine oxe^'pt imder tlie exjiress proliil)itioii of
giving a concert under tlic penalty of being precipitated into
l)iirg.itory. By way of retaliation helT ought to be the
general entrepot for all the harpsichords little and .n-eat,
past and future. This perspective freezes me with terror.'
_ I have taken some notes during the lony; hoiirs of travel
111 the West. They are written^ o) coimiiif, and I shall
have, myself, trouble in decii.hering them from thi' leaves
ot my memorandum. Tlie jolt ot'the railroad makes mv
lead i.encil describe all sorts of fantastic iigures; there are
zig--/,ags, hieroglyphics, and Gothic catliedral steepl(>s.
tor some time I had wished to give three *'oncerts in
one day (F had already done it at 8t. Louis, and T claim, in
detault of other merit, to bo the first ].ianist wlio has ac-
oomi)lished this tnar deforce m America), but the (piesHon
was of three concerts echelor.ned over a'route of one hun-
drc;(l miles. Leaving Xew York in the morniiii-- I arrived
at Aewark, a matinee aimounced at noon ; haiPthere com-
plete success; at one and a half o'clock I took the train
tor Albany M-liere a second concert was to take place at
half i)ast four o'clock; the third was to be at Trov, and
Ava.s not to commence until eiirht o'clock in the evening.
So far everything went well, "but man projioses and (icMl
disposes!" I had hi tlie car for neiiibbours a charmiiif--
young gnd and her mother, both hanii)ered with boxe^,
umbrellas, and other movable utensils, embarrassinii', invad-
ing, calamitous, without whicli no female havTuir any
respect tor herself could ornament the interior ofn i-ar.
ihey stopped at Fishkill. On seeing them i-vt up I did
us much under the influence which two prettv eyes always
exercise, and rushed out, my heart in mv mouth*, my ri'du
arm gracefully bent (the left carried a c-age and a J-aiun-y
another feminine article which I liad fortrotten to mention
iiithe inventory of tliese ladies an<l which I had heroically
seized), I ottered my hantl to them to descend. Here, my
I'
I!
1%
170
NOTES OF A PI Ay 1ST.
n.a.l.rs mav interrupt inc to s.y tl.nt my ^t^JP. ;;;;;;<;
an.usiuLC and lu.s ....thin.^ extraoraumry in it. A\ a.t tlu n .
^W^U'^-i..' H is iustwLat tl.c hu-omotive di.l uot .lo.
In^; ' in s ot'tlu. ouu-tosics of n.y tmvclhn. .o|n,^,uons
n u ot ho little ro>..rn,tnl ..onycrsatun; wl.u i o^^c.a to
u;hhni>r that _ . . a hoiuititul
smtcl to Strakosch oommomling to lum luB doav
^Jrs/c, A FAsmoxAnLE lualhy.
177
y stow is lii>t
. WiUttlu'Ul
vo (litl not do.
Ilir collllliUlioilS
hull 1 owotl to
•(■ (hit . . •
r pri'tty tiling's
luoc't hi'iuitiful
iictor had fried
<oc' thu last car
I'oiidl
;m"!i'airo at Fish-
tVoiii any hal)i-
t Alhany in an
half pity J"^''
two ]iriiH't'ssosl
is walkini;' with
et tlu'iu at thc
back to nu- and
110 of 1km- irii-ndri
thonsand tender
tty phaeton (the
ves ott" rapidly,
) that of Arahia
alone, and liiyen
onience of beinj^
ii) I-\villiievi'r be
it Avith the wintl-
ijnre. Firndn, I
isses in packing,
and who seems
, tender atfectiini
A-e. It was fonr
)lv full, lie sent
to him his dear
it. I, for myself,
it and inimitable
ies, and of so many
spoken to me of
turehased on the
little lad was dis-
^u^ ^J •" 7T' ^"'''^"•' " ^•"n-"ter, worked for
Un icl, I again t.u.k conrago, and o-iviu.- s,.mc n.oncv
to the boy, ma.le him <.on,luct n.e to' Chim.l.-s residon;:!
rp?'^' l'"'''''^''' '" cliarnuiiir affcrnoc.n.
hen. IS u class of UKlivi.luals for whom th. arts are only
a fashionable luxury, and music, in particular, an a-reeablc
no,.. ,^,1 ,legant superHuify that •.grceably v^yW^i^,
u.h serves to hll up the interval that sei-arates the linu"
b.rlenioiuK le iron, the time for supper. For them all i-
soph.cal discussions on the aesthetic, of art, are no nl.'re
1 an puer. hues, analogcns to that of the fairy wlio oecu-
ie.l herselt in weighm.-- strains ofMust in a seale ..f spider's
o •] V'V'lV'^i ^^r '•'"""' ^^''-oogh a prejudice which
.Uoe,. hack to the barbarism ..f the Alid.lle Ai-vs, thev ner-
sist m reb.sing a ,.lace in the higher sphere of social order)
me or them only merchants of the lowest rank who trade
. .piestionablo products, the most of the time awkwardly,
since they rarely make a ibrtune. "^
Performers are for them mountelianks or jutrglers, who
ply the agihty of their han.ls, like daiu-er. oi- aero as
thatot their legs. The paintc..-, whose c^./^./-..»... eleco!
i.Ke tlie wall ot their saloons, tigares hi the budi-vt of their
expenses un.ler_ the same title with the upho£terer ^ho
has covered their lloor with anAnbnsson; and if they w.re
ieit to themselves they would value according to fho price
ot the canvas and the oil, the 'Heart of the Ande.< of
Church or the 'Le Maivheaux Chevaux' of Kosa J5onlieur.
it IS not lor these, wh.. are disinlierited by tho.io.ht, tliat I
write but there are others, and it is to those that J address
myself, wlio recognize in the artist the privileged instrument
ot a moral and civilizing influence, and who appreciate art
because hey draw from It pure and unspeakable enjoy-
ment; who respect i., because it is the highest expressii
of human thought aspiring towards the Eternal Lb'al
and love it as the trien<l into whose bosom they lu.ur their
joys and their griefs to find there a faithful cclio of the
emotions ot tlieir soul.
Lamertine lias rightly said, "La mtisi.pio est la litterattire
(Iti c(e_ur, elle commence lA on finit la i.arole." Indeed
music IS a psycho-i.hysical pheuomoiion. It is in its essence
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
f,nn nn.l in Us (lovclopmont an ideal. It Huffieo., not
a -^^'"^f '7'.J'\" . "\, ,, a,,.stuna at least to po.ve.y.MnnsK-.
to 1)0 (leal, it not to unuci ^,,l„nitte(l to its i!\tlnonee-,
Idiots and ^^^^rVi!:'Z'l^^r<^^^^^'^ "^'^"^"^ ^^
not beini? eontmed to t le P'^^''^ /' , ^- ^1,^ ^oul, music
a word, a.Hl -^pa^sstng o.dy 1 c ; | "^/^J \ ,^^, ,a,. 'assin.i-
l.as the itdvantatjeover 1 tcrat t o^^O «ontinients
1,,, it to Ids <f " r'^«^^\^"^' ^;1.; • t(i ,in the intelleetual
which donnnate hun. 1> ) onn u '''^^ ■ illimitable in
order of things, to t lie ''^'"^''^J^Zm. innate, un.le-
that of the iinairmation. It ""^^^^^J;; ),;, ri,„f Litoni-
Ilnable ieeUng ^]nA. ^-VJ^;;-!^^:::^; aeS.;ndin,,ancl
tnreisalwaj;s ^'^'-l^^^'^'^ ' t Hi hannlv with the limited
a.toi-mines i.j us '"n'^^^^^ons haim j^ ^^^ .^ ^^^.^._
souse whieh it exi.ressea. ^y l" livo deDending on our
haps by turns objective «^^< ^ n ' f U is S^^^^
S te ot- mind at the time ^^■e hear it l^^J J\,., i^.ten
under the wholly V^^y^f^'^.^L^A warlike
passively, ami it ^uo-ests ^ ^.^^^^ I'^J^^ nightingale, the
Inaveh, a waU/. !^ ^^''}'\%^^^!^^^^^^^
eau-oniatic scales imitating the mil mun^ ,ul)ieetivo
'pastoral symphony,' are f ^'"^,1 .^^^ ^,;,^ Jon we .1 seover
when, under the intluence ot a ««^^^" '\^^ ^ " ,r psychical
in its general ^-f^ ^ ^^'S^,;^ror\^v^^^
state and assimdate it. it ^'^ "/,^;' "t.^^^
we see reflected the ^n^^tions vh eh agUate^^^ ^^^.^^^
so much the more «^f J^ ^J. ,];," ^i ".'^rc.vhich is unfblde(l
aware of it are the r^"l^«^f 9* ' i will explain myself:
before the eyes o our i«i«f ""\ ""• i^^^ tldnking on his dis-
I'lay a melancholy passage *« ' ^^^^J^^^'^'dh^er mourning
iant country, to an ^^l»'^"^^«":^;^]*:^;'^r ^^^^^^ assured that
for her child, to a ^'«'n"'^^^^\.^.?^\!^ii t ppi^pviate to itself
each one of. these various f ;^^;.|\^ ^,,2!^^^ in them the
these plaintive harmonies, and will reco„u
voice of its own suttering. ^^.^ ^^,y that it is
Music in itse t is still a mj^tery , a • ^,^,i
composed of three P"'^^;^ 1!^" '..f 'bS under the .x-
vhythmical symmetry. . ,^;^;^,^_^ .^r^^^^^^^^^ because
.1 /7/l\v/r.lZ: AGEST.
171)
It pufficos, not
porcc'ivt! imisic.
to Us ititlnoiuv,
>tt'(l iiu'iiniuu; <>t"
the soul, m|isic
Olio can asshui-
) tlie sontiiiioiitri
1 the intollectual
irt iHiinitublo in
lat innate, undo-
,(; Idc(d. Litera-
(lcrKtaii(Vni!i, and
with the limited
contrary, i^* l"-'i'-
ependini!; on our
s ohjeotivo when,
sound, we listen
ions. A warlike
iua;htii)2;ale, the
of the wind in the
It is sul)iective
ssion, wo discover
ith our psychical
i mirror in which
3 us with a fidelity
'cs without lieing
which is unfolded
ill explain myself:
inking on his dis-
mother mourning
(1 he assured that
ipropriate to itself
Tuize in them the
e know that it is
.ir, vihration, and
act under the ex-
,s no sound, hecause
5 glass—it hecomes
1 vibration. Take
c by changing the
duration of eacli of the notes which compose it— v.m will
render if uiuvcogMizable and obscure, because vl.ii have
destroyeil its symmetry.
JUit wliv,tlieii,d() \\i\t several liammorsHtrikiiitr in cadenco
make music V They nevertheless possess air, vii.rati,,,,, and
' I'i ,^Ml-^A *'"■'" I'"' '"■''"'■•^ "*■" <J'''''l fi''l<'^' tlie ear so
agreeaNy ? AV hy is the minor mode siiiri.^estive of .adiu-s'
I here is the mystery ; there the inexplicable plu.nomen..i,'.
\\ e .l.»_n,.. hesitate to say that music, whi.-h. like spe,vh,
is perccuved through the medium of the ear, .Iocs not, JikJ
tlie latter, cal upon the brain for an explanation of the
sensation j.rothice.l by the vibration of the nerves; it
addresses itselt to a mysterious agent within us whieli is
snijerior to the intelligeiu-e, since it is independent of it,
andinakes us feel that which it can neither con.-eive nor
explain. Let us examine the different attributes of musical
phenomena.
t
\. ]\I,i^;n h n phisieal agent ; it impresses on the body
shoc^vs which shake the organs to their base. In c'lmn-h/s
the flame ot the can.lles oscillates to the murmuriix^s of
the organ. A powerful ordiestra near a sheet of water
rufl.es Its surface. A learned traveller speaks of aii iron
ring which swi.p to the murmur of the iiills of Tiv.li
In ^wifKerlaiul, I excited at will-in a poor child afflicted
A th a Irightful nervous malady, hysteric-al and cataleptical
c uses— by playmg in the minor key of E flat. The learned
1 octor Lertier asserted that tlic sound of the drum gave
him the colic. The sound of the trumpet, some physic ians
assert, quickens the pulse and excites, although most hisen-
sib y, ]K..rspiratioii. Tlie sound of the bassoon is cold ; that
o he P reiich horn at a distance, and the remote harmonics
ofthe harp are voluptuous. The tlute, played soffly in the
middle register calms the nerves. ThL low notes of o
l.iano fn..hten little chil.lren. I had a dog who would
sleep on hearmo: music, but as soon as I pf^iycl in the
minor key would howl piteously. The dog of a cele-
brated singer, Avhom I knew, would moan bitterly, an<l
give signs of violent suffering, when his mistress sang a
chromatic scale. A certain chord produces on my nerve of
Hearing a sensation analogous to that which the heliotrope
180
NOTES OF A PIAXIST.
pi'odnotM on my souse of wnu'll nnd the iiiiionpiijo on Viy
KcMsc of tiisti'. "^ liiU'liorr* voice cliiiniu'd l>y its riiifX before
one l)ii<l tiiiii' to M'i/.c tlio Sfiisf oi tlio phruao or to iiiipro-
ciatc the ])uritv of lier <liction.
We can afKVin, tlu-n, tliat nnisical sonnd, rliytliniical or
not rliytliniical, intlucnccs our whole economy: (juickens
the pulse, sliirlitly exciti's iiei-spiration, and produces a
Hpecics of voluptuous and transient irritation in our nervous
system.
2. Mdfiio is a mornl ngrvt. Tlirnugh the medium of the
nervous system it brinjrs into ]play the superior faculties ;
its lansrui'ure is that of sentiment. Moreover, the ideas
which have presided over the combitintions of musical art
establish relations between its comi)Osers and the soul. AVc
sidi with Bellini in the tinale of 'La Sonnambula ;' -vve
Hlmdder with "Weber in the sublime phantasmagoria of
' ' Der Freischutz.' The mystical inspirations of Talestrina,
the masses of Mozart, transport us into the celestial regions
towards which they rise like melodious incense.
^lusic awakens in us reminisrences, memories, associa-
tions. A celebrated pianist, a friend of inine, related to
me that he knew in a citv where he was giving concerts a
charming young girl, ife was twenty years old, with all
the poetic"^ illusions of this romantic age; she was sixteen.
They loved each other without daring to confess it, and
jierhaps without knowing it themselves. But the moment
for parting came. lie was passing his last evening at her
liouse. "Watched hy the family, he could scarcely shako
hands with her stealthily at the moment of bidding her
adieu. Alas ! the poem Ijegun was. arrested at its first
pasre ; he never saw her again !
l)isheartened, fnuitie with grief, after having wandered
at random through the dark streets, he found himself again
without knowing how, under her window, at two o'clock
in the morning." She was also awake. Their thoughts,
united by that divine tie which merits the name of love only
in the morning of life, had met together, for she was play-
ing softly in the solitude of her chamber the first notes of
a iuazourka which tliey had dance<l together. "I^Iy tears
flowed," said he to me, " on hearing this music, Avhich seemed
|)jiio on r.iy
riiij; bt't'ore
or to iipiiro-
ythmiciil or
y: (luickc'ii.s
producos a
our ut'r\'oud
(lium of the
lor facultk's ;
■r, tho iiU'us
musical art
ho sodl. We
[iiiihula ;' "vvo
isniagoria of
)f ralestriiia,
L'rttial regions
e.
)ries, associa-
10, related to
iig concerts a
old, Avith all
! was sixteen,
nifess it, and
: the moment
'oning at her
earcely shake
' bidding her
d at its first
ing wandered
himself again
t two o'eloek
icir thoughts,
le of love only
she was play-
first notes of
r. " i^Iy tears
which seemed
f:pFf:crs of music.
181
Tt^-as the stidnl i.laint ..f 1,,,. heart ; it
'I'll was exhahng from her fii.g,,-,.; it was
to me snhlinio
\\as her grief '
the eternal tarcwdi !"'
Imi /c H f^r'"^^^^^ '"'!'"^ *''^' {"Hnortahlefei'icJot'tlc
hcioic city, helnnd whose fallen walls he Imd fo„iht e
i^".:h,a;;ds;;;:i;d;h:;al;irrv^L'^
ittc-c-tions which constitute ' home.' ^
J ll(> Tlinmniioi.ir V...:.. x .. , .
att;
\
The mercenary Swiss troops formerly in France nn.1 Yn
uni s Li^l ed tl.V^?'^''' "''^''''' '■'"'■^^ ''""^ mscordan't
^-u.uKis lunamea these brave mountaineers \vUh u-..,.liL-.
-lo|;^by recalling to them their count^ ^^it^t^
Xapoleon III finds liimself obliged to allow the Arabs
a nu^'^ ■ "k^ r""'"''''^'^*^"^ ^'^ ^^ incor,.orate wUl 1 i^'
ann^ , their barbarous music of fiutes and tanvtnn s ,
cler the pe.jalty of seeing them revolt. Th^t^^:^^:
these soldiers to make marches under whicS w ho.t s
1 laj^^o a Creole ox the Antilles one of his dunces, with
II
! i
li
182
NOTICS OF A I'lAMST.
• f ..i.vtl.in it-* i.liiintivo iin.l .Ircnmy nu'l^dy, and
its (IlliUllt rllUllin, us lUiinni I „.;, I, ,,,,,»,„< ..sill.
vutoru-s nf 1T'.':5 n^n.t the mvmlcr. ot l.unc. us
uvnius of Duiuourioz.
-x;:s ::3; w^^^^
1,0011 Ki'oii not to loino a ti idl . i ,,^.|, ,,f
l.enls I'an- t(. tlHMKrk ot then c^^^^^^^^^^ p ^ ^^^
.vh-u-h tlu.y arc so l-ro^^uMh^^^ i;*^, I <> l.ar it ; thoy
the (ln>ve an long 'i'\. ^^ ">," / /^ ' ," .,,,a to .Vu' after it
haveheen soon to ivtnso ho .a>tu c ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^,^
.nst..ino,l to lK> mlornoa f^'-^J ^^^ ,u 1 he Cks i-asturo
ruountains of Pcotlanjl '\"<\^^\1':^ ;,•;;" j/'o Uhorlan.l, the
o^vinir to a softening ot the ^im alinai m ^^^^^^
oureA by every ^^^^Z^^T^ ^^^^' ^"^ ^^
so vigorous. All ot the ''" ' ,|. and tli s was on
l-"''!rLl .?' ^Mt^ti;;'; ••h»cLla\n,oa, "«■/»,<
opera. If !-''"•'• ,J ' ',.. ,„„i , 1,1, ,vas all.
■ " C 4 i'ie. irhon-ibie ...tttU, of tljo taurtee^>",
,vw'l, la„i ,na,lo of I""™,;';-, ^//Jl'^^f^ut'^ t th'i.on^e
l,aste„«l toen.K-ea ™?™ > '.XJ / ..fhtnii^^^ i»'ane
of.a.e«fiii.vtnena»who«iil.e.iato, itK ^ ^^^^^1
„,vl,n„ at Olen.-ottt-™™- - - - „,..„^ , „ ,,
:;;;tr of^Jri^ a,Hu\™T.:.w of t..e „.o.t aoeno v^^^> o.
V iiu'lody, antl
Iwisiiisiii.
llic rc'|iiiMifim
t'nuH'c us Uk'
the panic time
\ ha^ a i-syt-lio-
y whistling to
vcH to bo t-'ijl"-
l)ourrf; caiiarii'rt
illcs ami Smtli
L' ; t*iii(U'rs have
i-latiA till' rhi'V-
a larui' bi-U, <'{
at till' lii'atl of
wear it ; tlioy
1 to ilii' aftiT it
ilusia the inuli'S
K'o if their iinni-
aniinals are ai'-
' thi'in. In thi!
ho tloi'ks ]iasturc
:hoOhorlan(l,tlH'
opor at the sound
beconio iniboi'ilo,
r. Thoy oixU'av-
:hat intolli'<'t oni-e
l)iittio(l. Once ho
., and this was on
le soptiior of his
oxolaiuiod, " fltxt
all.
tho Insurrection,
fiold of oarnaire, I
sgust at the house
le immense insane
I small organ, and
d we invited a few
t docile patients of
Mi's/r Ay/> Till- issAsr. j^g
....■,,,,,,, ..x,..,„i ,i„. „i„., ,„'„:,. 'i',;;'; , ' ,'"1.;,?,;
r.si..,! s ,.,„.i„, ,' t ' , ',':',""i'" ""•"'"! '"""i-
:■'«! mm., „„.i I,.. „|,|„„ 1 ;„ ' i i',"" r " I'';; "'■
Ihe truth is now so recoo-nizod in Finv.,. . +i *.
. H.,.o ,i.e orni,&.,„. „,, ,„,,„„: ;r.i' 1 »s, ;;',.,:;:";:
4i#
1^4
yoTi:s i>r a r/ASisT.
.tun.r, of (irniu.nv, wLuv all >i..jr. mnl wl.'- ""l"-
,•„,,., .'i...n.l nmsi.. will, its lal.o.irs ainl it. tos ivaU It
I will n.oiv pani-Mlarly iiunti.m 1' ran.v, uhwli .-la l.an
inoiv ll.at. vlM l">i..lml ( M-pl.. '•.... s nn.MH-M n| workin--
inon. How inauv ..f Wiv^v latter, wlu. imssixl at tlu- .•ahai.t
tlu'ir .nni.unts ,.!• U'ismv in .Irii.kii.K. ncxv tnul a i.l.;asant,
ivrivatioM in those, iv-.iiiions wh.^iv tl.. npint -.1 ass. ..Mat. nil
an.l of tVatc.n.ity is o..!rnMU-.v.l an. .lc;v..l..i...l- an. , .1 c
,„„,,, .,,,, , ,.,n. .amtiu. slatisti.- of .•i-Murs, wit ho.U .l...il.t
i, w.nl.l 1.0 .lis....v..v.l that tlK.y l.uv. .hnmns hr. ni i.n>-
,,„rti..n as n.nsi-al s.H-ictirrt huvo in.Mvasc.l. >"*"'•'•.";
u,vlK.tt»T; v..nf heart is in s.uni' way punticl whyn it is
stn.n-lv in.iirc-nat..l with tlu' n.-hh" hanu-.nu.s .. a tmo
•horns-, un.l it honnnrs .lilli.M.lt ..ot to tn.st as a hrother
him whose voi.-o is hlen.lr.l with yoi.r ..wn, an.l w.a.se
lu,,rt is nnite.1 with yonrs in u cominumty ot pniv and
iovinl t'lnotions. . . ■ i i
" 'If ()rphe..ns are ever estahlishcl m America, he assmv.l
that the 'ha r-r.. on is' -the Hc.urjre of tho eomitry— an.l re-
volvers will eeu«c to he imtioniil iiirttitiitions.
January, 1803.
I Imve heon (•onfincd to my 1)0.1 for f.Mir .hi.ys hy a sc-vero
attack of ncural.iriii in <>'>^' ^'Ve aiul <.ne side ot my lioa.l. i
have Hutiere.1 very much, hut, thanks to 'V^f'^tl'*';^. ;
Dr. Smith, the most amiahle eompaiuon that u sick man
couM desire, an.l to the attentions ot all connecte.l with the
Tremont Ihmse, the hest hotel I know ot (with the H ou-
tinental' at Phihulelphia), I am greatly hetter, and hope ui
u lew davs from this to recommence my 'eoneerti/.mg
i,ere.n-inutioiis. I was alono in my room when a m.mient
Im a friend brought me a. journal ot last month c-ontaiiimg
a^^letter from u lady in Indianapolis on my concert m that
eitv It is 7 o'clock. New- Year's Day 1 Magical epo<-h,
Avllich, when we are children, excites in us a glmv ot mde-
Hcrihahle felicity, and which, as we hecomo old, brings with
it onlv the remembrance of lost happiness. I was re(-allmg
to mVself family joys, and was measuring the extent ot
what we all lose as we advuuee in lite. Each ot these
/^.t iii:nvEusE.
peak, for in-
wlmst' nidiis-
nl\\iiv> iisHit-
■stivulr'. Uiit
ich to-dnv Imrt
il of worUinir-
iit till' ciilmivt
iii*l a jiK'ti^iint
•d; ami, it' we
vitlioiit (loiiltt
iiislicd ill in'o-
Iii ia<t. you
ifd wlu'ii it i-<
Dllic'rt of 11 lilH!
st as a lirotlu'i"
i- II, and wiioso
^- ot' \\\\v<i mid
'icn, 1h' artHurc'd
ititrv — mid IV-
.Tannary, 1803.
av.H liy u scvoro
itt' my lioad. I
110 attc'iitioii of
lat il siL-k man
R'l-tc'd witli tlio
with the ' Coll-
ier, mid liopo in
' ' ooiicerti/.ing'
vluMi il luoineiit
Diitli containing
concert in tliiit
Masjcietil i'iku-Ii,
a glow of indo-
[)ld, brings with
I was rociilliiig
t the extent of
Each of these
j:;';:';::' '-f^: '- 1'^" ■■ '■""■»• ..., .i„. i,„i„v„v 1-
ourselves. Wl„.. ....; ,' ., y " ' " " '"i^'' '"''•n made iii
v^nn.ni>i.ed! wi,a( ineMdsii,:.;.i.ti; ,;:•••':'••''''*
iMiisical jil.stra,.iin„ not t , • • V ''*'." '"''.^^ ""I.v n
f ti.esyM.,athi;s'r;.d : ,;;.:;^';'''''ir'\^^
to he iii..I<.sed witliin fl.e w 1 1 , • V '" ""' ""''^'"'"i'l,
^•'M"-erora<.; ' 1" ,";•,;, ':;''''^^
•M-•ri.•ular^^;il::;;l;H:.^r,;;:•;?^:^^
life (and wli(» hnn not' J\.,y t\V Vr l'-""^^ '" "'.^ ai'nst
Htood that I an nr/uMvi, . I ;r 'rS'^ "my l,e ander-
bnt I donottlilMl fl,. ^''-"^ ' ^"^'■^' merited it),
- .i^iightniny ;:; t :r, :";£7':;; "i'^-^'-'^ ''"y i-
(.roLation of -tlds mother [ si U I il';'!; Z' r^i ^'^ "''■
lost my t nie in writin.r ' .. F', .. .'"'^ "^^ ^ '"'d n(.t
tlmngli I have no m^Jivc/rtn^^ ^-'''-^'^ •^""-'')- ^'^^^
my love f„r chil Iren n.'.ll ., V'*" '''-"'^>' '•^' "'<"Tii,iro,
^irain I reiie-.t .> ,"f,^ { "' !'^ .^^ '"^'1' HUrronnd.s the cradle
composition, hn y H t i a r"tir;^ ''^ !'V l'"'' "'^'^
for her little intl nt wh. n ' r^^''"^"'".'^^ l'^''' affection
called to heriJf : IJ , , '';"'T"f T'V^^ ''''""« •^''^' '•^'-
niy concert. ''"'' ''^"^'^^ «^'^' ^'^^l j'"«t I^ciird at
16*
Q NOTES OF A PIANIST.
. The omaic .ong-^i. » ;|ot i^^;^f:^::,:^:: :zi
Bo„mn. o«.r,,,^- ;;-;., 1.^
M.«lt, J..U know, »'"'■'■' 'l,eta,U\vliul. ogago us
it hal. tho advantage ov« «" ™ j ^I'.^,/ ' ,„i,lg inftnite
boun,la.-k.» upou tl.o l,«uvr8 t ug it , < 1 .-_.^_^,^, ,„j.
nlothor^vho has lost her ^"^J^ s Ju" mt -^c uul, to c.u-h of
t.e.., an exile who ^-^J-jf^^ ^^ > S"of its 'own proper
the'«e sorvowing; hearts ^\ Hi appeai ii ^
grief, and the vetieetiou ^'^j;':^^^ i,y mon^orieB of a
yonno-ersi.lei of nunc, ^^^'^^^^^"j^^/Vi fancy throug^^ a
ace an<l strengthenea hy «'^';*;"'f'„ • .\,=-,ies].ite itstritiing
sorrow once spared my heart. ^
CHAPTER VIII.
SpniNOPiEi-n, Illinois, January 8, 1863.
^-r. 1 1 TTntol r ' " n Eaeh one of these oxelama-
St. Nicholas Hotel {...■) Y , , .11 ^-on a story ot
1
SPRIXCFIELD, ILLISOIS.
1S7
■t pet to music?
ow, on ('(niunt!;
given inolodi-
gs — a mother's
lerof tlie 'Bor-
ic 'Home Jour-
cfording to our
■hieli engage ua
I our own domi-
ively undelined,
of imposing iio
opening inlinite
iiiii-s to" rove un-
■kuly, board l)y a,
bewails his mis-
} land, to eaeh of
of its own proper
iv memories of a
rouiiht up hy me,
nianey through a
icr awav tVom us.
;. I imaithied her
thought of loshig
■etions, ripened by
r up afresh to be
"despite its triiling
L-alls to nic a great
render the St. Nidiolas Hotel, Sprinirtid,!, forever eel,-
pmted! J irst, the Legislature l)eing in session, flu. Ix.use
IS tiill, which la the same as saying that the beefsti'aks are
leuthcMy, the eggs too hard. ].et him ex].laiu who enn
the afhmty whieh exists between vietnals and u crowd, and
what inakea one tho consequence ot the otlier; but sucli is
tlie lact. I have bitterly real'.zed it at the Ihirnett Ib.uso
in_ ( lucinnati. Ouo of my agents had to share his rliami.cr
with tlireo persons. One stole his ijold v/atch. his fham
and his trock coat. AVe are coojied up, six of us, in a little
njoni hardly krgo enough to hold one bed conifortal)lv
llu) water to wash with is as black as ink. The prcorietm-
charges us for a supper which we have not eaten, and upon
a limid ohservatiou wliich we make respecting it, looks at
us as if he wishe*! to crush us, and addressing the i.orte--
throws out this men-.orable phrase, which seemed to me -.ot
to speak very highly in favour of the honesty of the travel-
lers with Avhom he is in the habit of dealing: "Eillv, take
care that the trunks are not taken away betorc the bills are
paid !
excellent Lincoln, Springfield lias been vour liome, but
that does not increase my admiration for its inhabitants!
March 5.
Given my first concert at ^Vashington— great success
Audience variegated ! diplomats, generals, ctt^ In the first
row I recognized General irerron,^ny old friend from Xcw
Granada. .he porch of the liotel is alwavs cro\\-dod
lliere are some thousands of soldiers, uniforms of everv
nation, German, French, Polish, Austrian, Croats, etc I
particularly remark a regiment from the west, I think
whose shakos, a sort of monument, whidi has ])ehind the'
ap))earance of a Tyrolese hat, and before is ornamented with a
visor is surmounted instead of a [.lumo with a squirrel's tail
lois, January 8, 1863.
3 of these exdama-
[ tell vou a story ot
tions which should
ler's'WalL-nstein.'
After the concert, a sqnint-eytl gentleman requested me
with a mysterious air. to gra-c him an interview for ten
minutes to-morrow. He ha i come ! i thought it was for
L
188
the 1
it
yOTES OF A riANIST.
i.urpnso of l.looainjr my purse, I am so accnstomea to
IT Tl.u immlHT of fathors out of woi-k, ot ori-liaiiH ot
tciulor asro, and of widows vitliout sui)iK)rt is invariably
siii.ndarlv duvdopod the luorning after a coiu'ort, and iny
1„ iTrinos^u-c uouerally overrtm ; but my wiumt-eyod prc)-
fes>,^or ?s fc^imply only a professor of physiolop- at the L ni-
vei-ity. lie has remarked, he sai.l, that I played more
quieklv than any other, and as he has seen that one ot his
eonfrateri.itv, in a book just published has athrmed that
the nund.er''of pereussions given by tlie human nerves eouU
not transeend more than twenty-five in a sceond he should
he happy to prove the falsity of his rivals assertion. Ue
dared to hope that I would eontirin liis observa ions, lie
gave mo a long dissertation, and repeated to me that he was
liappv to have known the pianist who could make more
tliau'twentv-tive j*('?v'*/*.*.sv'o/*s in a second.
O Art ! where art thou 'i I took enormous proportions in
his eves bv telling him that I play the 'mouvement perpetuel
of Weber in less than two minutes. What would you wish
me to have said to this ignoramus ? Couhl I resolve to
descend from the pedestal on which he had p aeed me .'
Here I am then definitely classed scientifically by this scpiint-
eyed gentleman among the most powerful known motors.^
Thu-d concert to-morrow, the 8th March. Second, this
eveniiur, the 7th. To-morrow I shall go to General W ads-
worth's camp. Two young cavalry majors avetoscMid us
horses, the roads being so broken that t will be difhcii t,
even with our hackneys, to got to the camp, which is on tlie
other side of the Potomac. The government has done us
the favour of sending us a safe-conduct. Mr. beward, the
Secret:.. -v of State, desires to see me, not as an artist only,
but as a'Louisianian remaining faithful to tbe Constitution.
The dav before yesterday the house ot Baron .MeiTier,
the French Minister, was burnt. All the furniture and tlie
wardrobe of Mr. and ^ladam were lost to that extent ti ait
Madam, the Baroness, had to borrow stockmp from
Madam Ritro. Interesting details! li.c city 1';'.^ the
appearance t)f having been just taken by assault. Military
everywhere. Soldiers on every side. An immense crowd.
I have solemn! V taken the oath of allegi-ince to tlie
government at Washington. My borror of slavery matle
=rn
nORROR OF SLAVKRY.
accnstomed to
of oi'iiliaurt of
t is invarialtly
>iu'ort, and my
[uiiit-oyi'd I'l'*^
p- at till! Uni-
I played more
that one of his
5 atlirnic'il that
lan nerves could
cond he shoidd
, assertion. He
nervations, lie
me that he was
lid make more
IS proportions in
.■ment perpetuel'
would you wish
luld I resolve to
had plaecd me ?
lyhy thisscp;int-
known motors,
h. Second, this
) General AVads-
•s are to send us
will be difficult,
), which is on the
lent has done us
Mr. Seward, the
as an artist oidy,
the Constitution.
Baron Mercier,
furniture and tlie
that extent that
stockiiijis from
iic city has the
asa\dt. Military
L immense crowd,
alk'giraice to the
of slavery made
189
tlio (iitlmlic <ogi„a n.irHr,lin,it ,lm,|,tl„l „oi,l V „,
are no longer br>ken-the general movem> k/. ,
. "mfication. ^ o one fraction of the pcoi.le has he r ht
reclaim its autonomy, if it does not\-a Ty w th it -nx t -r
g«aranteesof,a-ogressand civilisation tluui^tl^^^
ity who IS enslaving it. TnM the South in wishing, o • W v
t mo fl o T"' -^'""I^".' l^^"*^^''''' "^omniients"<t modern
Tt d l'^"'^'"".^"''^"-^"''^^'-^^'^^ i^li it only slavery
iMndeed unbecoming my fc-llow-citi;.ons of the South to
nsk lor the liberty of reclaiming their indepcn.I ■ u'e lu
this independence is only to bo'made use of for t le ^'niei
vation ot the most odious of abuses and tl <> n n f « . ."
putiye upon lil^rty. I do noU^a -J^a^- m, W iS^^d
i.;g n.e iiegro. I believe him veiy inferil>; mo ^ f ^ «
A^h to ^o race so maltreated as this has been bv ch-n, o
could have remained as - /'rL • • ^ ^ "'>"^'c
found.) • (Kemaming part not
J , Alexa.vhria, i\pril 27.
i have for a long time desired to see this little citv on
1- i„ ,ho wj,^^ j;si^ ;-i''i;pt s,"E^^
190
yOTES OF A PIANIST.
t,o Con^aeratos, anA finally b^-;. the ^-ral ^-J^^
of the tirst-that I. ^S^P^^^'^^^^ ' V^i^;e^u8 w we find
that iudetinable >^«!' "f \\V 'ttlc amMn our thoughts
ourselves on a.i oM ^f^^^*^^.^: f !^;n*y oi which itMms
^^'^?r^rV at the'Mar.hall no;^^^^^^
'"Vr"^^V^^ho Arnivof the Potomac has heen estah-
ral hospital ot the A^^^^J/^; .' ^-^^^^ invalids at every
lished at AlexaiKhna, thereto eANemcc^^^^ ^^^^^
step. The sight of a »;"^ '^^^.^Jst allthoL whoiu
spectacle ; bore it is l^^a^t- endu^ , a most ^^ ^j^^
I meet being yp}"V^ /r^TrrthfaSs of actual war.
^Marshall ll7^^,«\^%^'^^^^^? ^iVc^ith a y^ i^^^ -^ "i"-"
It was here that ^<^^o»^l ^Vf^^'"^i^l^if Kufwortl^ a new
\T r^'^ ri>tt LalilS iuly of w.rs .uul
^l'^^^;^H^;;.eTis as erted,had never knocked at his
Si ;;d^^eii^i. again asserted, a virgin.
CHAPTER IX.
As in the past J ec^itinuc^o^ whWed i|^^-. ^ Thi.
agitated life is a ^^f f J^^^S^^^rSiable and of more
themselves have not a '"1<^ mm« ""/. ^ j^stiny sub-
unchangeable vigidity than hat to aUuci^^^^^ J
everythhi is "^^^J^^ :/;;\ * e^i^^^^^^^^ my agent I
peregrinations. /^^^Xi a few amount of the
know m advance, ^^^thin a ic^^ nmnhev of inhabitants. I
receipts in a town ot a g^v e^^ "^^^^^^^^J ,^^^ inextricable
know, with my eyes shut, e^ fiJ <>"*^ ^. ^^^^ ,.ailroads with
o-oncral qv.irtcrs
there a little of
8 wlieu we iind
n our thoughts
,f which it"" has
rirginiau soil is
the tbot8te\>s of
[otcl,' almo;*t on-
11 of Alexandria
men. The gene-
3 has l)een estah-
tuvaliils at every
is always a sad
t all those whom
,t children. The
ids of actual war.
ling hero of nine-
r:ilriWorth, a new
)nly of wars and
r knocked at his
virgin.
THE PL7JLIC.
191
led in space. This
The Chartreux
tiahle and of mo re
L-h my destiny suh-
y-thing is foreseen,
regulated in my
mce of my agent, I
the amount of the
• of itdmhitants. I
of the incxtricahle
■ the railroads with
railroad conductors
siiliite me familiarly as one of tlie omi.Iov)^.^. The vonu"-
girls at the refrcshmont-room of the station, whcri- tivo
minutes are givi-n, select for me the hcst cut of ham and
sugar my tea witli the ohHijhig smile that all well-tan-ht
tradespeople owe to their customers. At H oVIo-k T sihite
in my l)lack suit my audience, and yive them 'II Trovatore '
A t 'rVr ""^'^^'' ^'.' "'"^ tliey encore the 'Alurnunvs Koliens''
At halt-past nme they call again for ' La liercense,' in the
midst ot tlio enthusiasm of some yountr romantic vir-nns,
and some papas slightly inclined in a semi-conscious state
to sleep, wlio find the piece ful 1 of asrreeahle effects. A t ten
o clock 1 carry off my patriotic audience to tlie In^lliocrent
accents of 1 he Union' fantasia ; and at lialf-past ten T 'throw
myself, exhausted and depoetized, into the prosaic arms of
the blessed Morpheus, whom 1 should he tempted to caiu.ni/e
It 1 were J ope, and if the good man (I speak of Morpheus)
liad not chosen to live hefore the invention of canonization.
1 his morning hreakfasted hi a hurry, and, alas! five six
seven, eight, or ten hours of railroad, and always the same'
flung— the crowd, and to he isolated! Isolation is cer-
tainly sometimes a sad thing; hut to he alone and find
yourself surrounded-or he Jostled hy the multitiale and
feel that, outside of the indirect relations of the ' ticket
ofhce,_no other tie attaches you to those who surround
3-ou— IS it not worse than ostracism or the desert'' I in-
demnify myself- hy making physiognomical observations
on those whom I meet. I classify individuals
A hook written hy a talented observer on the phvsio..-
nomy of tlie public would he very interesting. La vater, Tf
he liad liad tlio great misfortune of bcin<r oljHired to .rive
concerts wouh certainly have studied^ the characte'r of
that collective being-tliaf monster-gentle and feroci(»us,
satiated and famished, glutted and corrupted, artless and
capricious-which is called the public. You would not
believe how much there i. t],at is interesting in the public
(outside of the receipts which are naturallv the moit im-
p(n-tant of its phases). Do you remember the storv of flio
prisoner in the Hastile, who, midst the horrors of his cap-
tivity, found amusement in taminir a mouse— the onlv com-
panion of his solitude; and of tlia>, other who beiruiied the
monotony of his time by hunting in the dark^for a pin
192
yOTES OF A PIAyiST.
Uonnan or DuU-h (I call ^'^»" ' ^ , ; '^ .^;,a Dutc-li those
Goetho, Mon.lelssolnj a.ul ^.^f '^^ \,*;'tl>or-cM.untrv are
love of beer, a eonluil ^^'f,^, ^ •"* ^^ j^. M us hands, and has
his hair ^^f^^^y^^'X^l^^^^^^^^ ^'"^
tlio unpardonable ^\eaKnt.sf» uui. i
2;:ianot^>nstotheKhjr.c.l)anuM^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^
^ l\.ould, if ^^^'^^r^y^ Ibsoribers in n.^'
C^'^; the'lionle Journal,' are in the B.ajor.ty-by
theVarmth or coldness of the ^^^'^^^ ^^^^.^ewas only
I ao not ^o^y^^^orr^^^^;^^ •„ ^.^
one lantasia or the Vf^' ^,"'\\\"V-'..,,,,,, all the lucubrations
able eticct of the tei, id-water npc - l^^^^^^, ,f i>,,,.
.rudently «^')fi'l^ ^ ^^ „l. .V h .n.ldv whirl of the con-
imY>i''
...iprudently conii.led to tne T^?-^^^^;;: ,• ^f the con-
i have come in the "^«V^^\\^^F ks t the invariuble
cert in which I hud "^^'f^^' "^"^J.^v ^-^ ine "I>ou the stage
perio.licity winch ^!'"f ^^^P^*;;^, S/li fhefe is only one
ieforc the same piano, ^^J^'^^l^;,^'^^^ ;,, ^s humour, but
,„„i, „t; tl,o «">>'™--. ""* t; a .1 '....Vila; tl.^. «.-f .
THE CREAT DEAD.
103
kcthom. The
ic reiK'tition <>t'
caiv, isoliitioii
ig of all), toivo
lu'insolvi'M.
i()iiiu'>*, l»vit tlie
jiinj jtroMciiif*:
I t() the sku's?
; liave ijot into
uiulorstand by
town a professor
.(luirod, toll you
lu'ct^ if tlioy are
nnenofScliilU'i',
1(1 Dnti'li tlioj*c
•tlior-c'ountry are
i-son wlio fonibrt
hands, and has
nseribe his goo-
such or Bucli a
ihsorihers in ni^'
I,' or 'Dwitrhts
;hc majority— hy
at there was only
ess to the intoler-
1 the lucubrations
istrument of I'au.
whirl of the con-
to the invariable
ng ui>ou the stage
: there is only one
in its humour, hut
and eharaoteristie
[linc-schcwl (may I
lost'iuteresting ele-
•hich my attention
•astorella,' the first,
iut of its title, the
second, thanks to tlio small talk hetm-en the malicious and
awkward young girl, and the am.M-ous chevalier, ha\e .rnie-
rally tlie privilege ot awakening in an uiuMinivocal niiriuier
the notice ot tile pretty battalion on the left or rii^ht win.'
A\ one or the other extremity, like the cnanlian of the tlo.'l"c
charged wi h the care of keeping on tlu- road the refractorv
siieep, IS generally found the local J5eethove!i, wiio is xwt
celebrated, and whose immaculate and delicate taste can
not be pleasei with the plain water-gniel serve.l up to the
barlnirous vulgar, and who feeds oulv on the divjuo am-
l)r()sia enianating from the masters (dead— this is imi.ortant
and puntied m the crucible consecrated by opiuiori and bv
time); this is of the best tone, seeing that aristocracv fs
always conservative. The great dead! liow mauv little
erimes are committed in their name! It is sweet to be able
to crush a living youth who incommodes you (and what
way IS more commodious and less compromisiujr than to
throw an old name at his licad!).
Chopin's genius has developed itself within the fifteen
>ears since he has rid his contemporaries of its iierishable
envelope. One could scarcely believe how much his com-
positions have improved.
Thirty years ago lie travelled in Germanv, when his
comimsuions only obtained the disdainful criticisms of the
worshippers of suns that had set.
The form! O pagans of art! The form! When then will
the time come, routine fetish worshii.pers, when you will
Jiave the courage or the talent to avow tha^ there is more
genius 111 the pretty waltzes of Strauss than in five hundred
pages ot school-work; in eight notes of genius, whollv
without ornament, ignorant of their nakedness, but iK-auti-
tul in their ignorance, than in a loijarithmical problem?
Ihere was a period in France, in Italy, and in Spain when
the cuncdti wcrethe rage. The poetical mania in its licen-
tiousness, deceiving Itself ill its devouring fervour, chuK'- to
a worship ot material tours deforce. T^he idea! Wha't is
It then { It matters not what sensualists, ondovx ed bv God
lyitli the power ot creation, can ima<.ine it! 15ut the" form
difficuir"^'''"'''""*' *^''' '"'"'''"*'"" ^^'*' '"'''^''''' "' *^''' ^^''' ^^'^'
Already under the lever empire the rhetoricians of Bv-
17
■■:;. -.i_^^ji','!„u^^,„J4Jv^ u»wi.» J. p »
194
KOTES OF A PI A MS T.
loMuths' should,!., t ho.r '■r''wt:/Hti«m-'uH. above all
Un.l. tho U-ttor A '^»'<^"\\\, *;,(^^\C x'stouisluHl reader
^^'t;^!:S;ula::AVistarein.,c^^al^^
(vho -si;eet theu..jAvc«^ a^t ^. ^£^ ,,,iu.U..j? other
c-steem tor beer, aiul hu ks ^" \\\m. ^Jj^, taneiful, has
.tin...la..t.) l.is "»^l'^'-"//'V tvoe f t ie inimoleratc t.so of
oontributea i\^V"^f truWwcthlp a r\vbo does not
tVibuted to the advent of long hair.
There is^Uhin - a want of,o,^nUbrto ^^
aspirations and nwr^^^^^^^^ ,,,,1 the
wards regions ot \"^ " . 'nths of reality, fettering m
latter ten<l t-anl the lo.^st ^^tt,,,,^,,rne
"^J::" ^^ tk Wniidence in myself and my
irritability when I.am ^^^itic^^^^^^^^^^ . ^^ ^ris, it
If I write my iniaginatio j'^.^f ^^^^ ^, .^on as I
traverses space and shows "^^'^"•Y,^'; ^.^ttertlv it be-
llh to plaee it ^l^on paper, fixnnn^^^
comes a l!at. The wings beo.n e ^^ ^^>^ ICJ^,,,, thing
iro, were led
s lost for so
hotter. Had
it tlieinselvos
, of liiu's (the
nose (litfeivut
. oye the ap-
in(l above all
lilt ions of the
•ite ii i><Hiii in
1(1 for twelvo
lishecl reader
i-ikiug agauist
lessons on the
men of irenins,
OS a ]iarti('ular
ucludhig other
! faneiful, has
loderatc nse of
who does not
idating liciuid,
got drunk to
iiszt have cou-
m between my
isire to soar to-
lity, while the
ity, fettering in
nd keeping me
I myself and my
vings of Iris, it
As soon as I
I butterfly it be-
mder the burden
ischievous thing
offers me a thou-
c. J 11 r/-: T- n. i a ex is tfxce.
l!t.>
sand onf'onrnironieiils ((. r,,ll,,\v if w;,i, ,,.„, ;. i , r .
t;.giveaii.nntVan..linn.y;nvnwonstJ :.^^^
"M.tlMt til, bclatnl U-nxvWvv pursues, it vani-lirs into tl ..
.h..;!<.H.s at the. n..n.oMt wlu.. 1 think'l ha "! J , : '
iN.r tiftivM months n.y cxlston.v has lurn \\nC\ .V- XL^
>ag; 1 should ..c-rtainly hcvon.e brntali.c.d h • 1 * ^ ,^
"n>in [() «cirk tl) (iiici some p(,««i . >■ w.iv (o <,,i,,l,.,f tl...
li a the Arab of the de,.c-rt, to appease his thirst, . n
ehhles into lus nK.uth-the sali'varv t^^lan.ls, i • ,,, !
IK ii.ul (Hunk (a Cien-ian would not fail to rail it -x vuu\u
1 »> ot Jigiit. A\ hy not, said I to mv.sc.lf, should 1 not trv
IS means; and by transferring the 'indn-lifhie' pr „ J Jf
otnf /'"''' ^'t' ^^"'^ ^ conmieneed writing mV
notes of travel. Sueh is the monotony of my ti-avel."t •,•?
I soon understood that what I wrote\vas mu 'ss 1
efleetion ol my surroun.lirgs than the exju-essio, of vh' t
took place withm myself. But as that notion no st(^nc
tli V'-^""' j'«"^^»'^^ly "H'naeed with petrifaction, I d , | U
T ^nnVi'^ ^ ^''''i^''\^ «^'i^- salutary illus:., by 1 ch
I could traverse, without succumbinir, the 'ts^hara' of ' ,
ceits^ through which I have wlurled' for mole Ihan two
nobir. ^T^ ""^ "'^' pocket-books (I was about to sav my
pebbles;, they never leave me. They are like an intinvite
compamon lor me, a mute confidant Vho has th i^ime o
advantage over all the railroad friends I have evei iie of
bearing me without my being obliged to stm n n,; o'fce
1
•mhhwWjW^w,-
196
NOTES OF A /'/.LV/.^T.
to .... m.a >'^'V^'V''<^'':7v\ r ; t c X It, tha luM von un.lor
coMl.l a. n.iu-h Ik. huuI ' , .j^^^. Us that I Lav.. lUl.cl
V,.,n tlu. M\.s,s.n.l.; ;; ; '^ ; 'tvouM tako ..ma care to
Yt.i-k to tlu. >1*"'"'"\ .Vn nnvthii..' i-l-^o than nnacii-
l.n.vout von from .hscovonn;^ ".■. oir im-cs looks liko
.l.val.1 A;u.ro,l y,^u-H ; ^^f ^ ^'j!;^;; J.i,^.al tl.. haste
the- sale ot at. oIkIi^^K. _ / '^Z ' ^..^rvollouslv ui inakiu,;:;
^vith whu-h 1 WHO, assist, i u , a ^^ ^.^^^,^^,^^
_what should 1 say ^ hjv^ o ^^^^ ^,,,„,.^, ,u,,,a hy
^^"^^^r'^n"S<'r ^TSas l^^a^'i^ a house,
or iv man on I'^'irl^J^'^,; ^^ j'^,. poekot-hooks would greatly
Deealeaiy I 1""\, f •' , ]X-M' lant.n,a.iie. Iiuaguui-
jj,-,,. by heing '""'Y^"^' V . \ u thin-s, Avhieh some read-
tiou might see m tlj^^m^lu mn ^ '^ ;^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^., i
ers, alas, will. Be^uvh mm wm^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ Amenoan,
^l;^!^^ mr^m i'i^pr^ t.fhe vardouea ibr my bung-
U,vi style and awkward language.
Euniu, New York, Sunday, Juno, 1803.
■;„o will cJc- mak»n;e ^-ovo, o • -^--; ^.^ „„„, a„,,
Elnnra is composed ot twci\c »in-ii^
of the week. _ Wikfast, I took a nap. Then I
This monung, after ,»^^»'\1^5, ' ,,^.„i .vhereltmmd two
.vent down hUo ^^V^^^:ZC^ looking as dis-
ladies with their ^""^^>.^,^^ ^%i ,re a large Bible. Every
mal as possible. I '^ ;%* T. ^ i, observe(f in all puritanica
%!:7TS {^^.nrof' «a,oo. It i» .0 cuo o.- ti,o
^r^^'"'"- 1 ;f rJn.l in his croodncsa ever thinks of us;
buti'aiZo/S,g'l.U.5o. o„ a Sunday, u,.ou h.
liiiii.i: soriETir.s.
VM
noo il listons
what rrifiiilf*
1(1 yon hikU'I'
1 iiavc lill»'cl
1(1 from Nt-'W
jrroiit ('inv to
than nntU'ii-
rort lookn like
and the haste
As ill makinjj;
L'tiiri'**, rockotrt
\)iu' HOI'S in
idrt rhased hy
Hoori a house,
lins,
would greatly
tro. Inuigina-
ic'h tjouie reud-
of my pen. I
an Ameriean,
I for my bung-
day, Juno, 1803.
le day discover
raotrt aeeordii^g
nos]»heres. Xo
tiiat Sunday at
i the other days
a nap. Then I
lerc I found t^yo
., looking as dis-
e Bible. Every
in all puritanical
is a day devoted
lich God has in-
is to die of the
ver thinks of us;
5unday, upon his
creation in Anicnca, it is very donbtlhl wluihcr he re-
joi.vs m I'ls work, on siving so many dishcartt'n.d fn.vs.
As to the lhl)l.' (hke that I HmukI in (h,- parlonn, I should
not have lymarUl it cxc.pt for its colossal pro,,ortions.
ill., zeal ot the Mil.Ie societies is sm-li that you cannot find
a hotel -what do I Hay?~a chamber in a hotel or steamer
witiiontone or more IMbles. The number of ( )|,1 Toti-
men^rt which the iJihle societies gratuitously disi,. • of
amounts aumially to two millions; two-thirds of the books
are sent to the -Nhdays, Chinese, Hindoos, ('atljis, .Mah-aclies
and ^lamese, wlio doubth'ss mciye tlu'in joyfullv, ami hcII
theni to their urocers by weight ; the ivmaiiKh'r are dis-
ril.ute<l in the I nited States, esi-ecially among the soldiers.
1 <Iare to assert that among them miscreants are to he found,
lyg-ard essot the Hebrew epics, whose sacrilci-ifMis lupes are
lighted \vith tlie erotic heat of the caiiticlo^)f canticles of
oolonioii,
I5esi(|c.s the Bible societies there are, in every town. Tract
societies, which rival the ardour of the first, and whose mis.
Slot, is to scatter profiisi'ly all sorts of relio.i,,us ITihle stories
eddying ancc(h)tes, niiraculoiis conversions, j.arallels he-
tweeii infidels and Protestants, iind the sectarian excelleii.-e
ot the sect - — - (here jOace the name of one of the two
or three hundred sects that flourish in the United States
eai-h one ot which aspires to govern the others). All this iii
juimphlets, tl^v-Ieuves, etc., whicli rain upon the traveller in
the steamer, m the hotels, in the railroad cars, in the streets
everywhere, iinally, \vliere the ].resence of a man gises
promise ot a soul to be saved and a recruit into the ranks
ot the phalanx, be it rnivcrsalist, Methodist, C'alvinist,
1 useyite, Maptist, Spiritualist, or soinetiiini; else. I recall
a good luan who was always found in the trains i^oln-r (V,,iu
^ewlork to J'hiladeiphia, at seven o'clock on siindav
eveiung (the only train permitted (.n that day), and who
^hw<} to slip, whether or i.o, into tiie tra\ellers' poekc'ts a
little sermon On the non-observance of the Sabhath day, and
tile terrible pumshmcnts reserved for those wIk. by travel-
ling on Sunday committed the crime of high treason ni-aiiist
the Divinity.
AVliat could I do ? Xo stores o))en, no carriaires in the
-streets, not the least noise, not the least sign of life, excel. t
17* • ^
1
198
S(>TI-:s nr A I'L\MST.
1
Ts f it luMl iKvn vi.it..l l.y tlu. plau-.n; or .l.oK.n, W lan.
Vham .1 ... 1 aviuL' 1k'<'.. |..vs.Mt at ...,0 or two ,„«..m'.vs
-visr;::;::.:%t;::;;\*'T!;;'';:ia.o.
-sr:i;a;r'V/Vt^^^i;;r;^-;.!t-^^
a i.V. is ,.c-.-n.itt..l (l.y p.in.u to tl.. l.ar t ..•ou. h tho
.'""•'"V , , ,r. .li.r-.iKlK tlic Rinii ii zi'il i<.iiiil.iKn»i'' ..I
;t":"'::;i1; ,;.;;'>" tLr-uo .,. «„.„■. „gai., o,, «,, .uu
V i^ I i \n the phu-e of ^;o,.rs i^ invar.al/b' a'' <? < - ; •
This ivnru..ls me of an infidont fo.u.oftc.l ^Mth the
r • 0.8 e Sohii. This c.harn.ii.g a...l acromphshcl
Moxsn.fii /,/: SOI..M.
it M.I
kc hIukIowm
Vi'iii I'liiii't li,
.iWll llplit'liis
u. Wciiritil
I "tnivi'i A
ho Hiu \vitli
vo umcHiu ivrt
thi'ivdii, mill
II liiis lui'ii a
Mliiy iiii ii'i*'-
•n iViiit 1 I'oi'i
tlinmirh tlio
i(ly,\\iii>l<i'V,
ui'itl r (ii'tiiiM
I. Tlu' liiiii.
mI till' liiui"—
>o May, I f*at
—the "^'Foivst
ist \\A I t'om-
lu' liotcl, and,
iiiitl a rlrrsjiy-
i^'ii of Divine
lie t(» stop my
n\islc. 1 now
lunti-nanci'rt of
in ou any such
er of the Sal)-
fv)nii'l)otly had
,ly, as 1 found
iich cases, hy a
q)lain, the hat
l»ly an old one.
(I'tod with the
atroniplishod
though jieoi'lc
I account of her
qiok'on) was in
rely u delicious
't '• |T<;..turc, (nil of wif, wl... was trvint; hor wi„,.s i,,
c iv T?"'; •' '""' "i'".'" ^"'i''"' '•''•"■'•■'^ ••'•♦■"-'■'" •"
:.:':- i.lLff';:^n;:^;::;:!i:r;^!;::-;^',::i^;;::i;:;:
IJa.lcn-IJadcn was at tliis epoch only tlie irmh./voiH ..f
'•;r"' ^;''''''-:^'^''''fllV'l''-noll.in.s,a.u|.a,nh!' I "^
"ilu' I. ":"!;''' ;-"''"'^'"^ Lis <.p<'n.H there, nor i ..l v
< l.t Ins concdies, ,„„•, „, |i„c., Mn.o. ,!,, S..In. I.er
>"^"'l.s, towlM,l,an.ll,erlK,n.tif,,leves,Kl,ewasiMd.I. Vl
ot Ifalv. At He pen<Ml <.f wl,i,.l, I npeak, her l.eantv was
<i Kirs one, that she was deaf (a as she still is)- fl„.
o her hat she had Afor-sieur de Solln fi>r a husl „ l\l ^
H eur .1. .sohu, whom s„ci,.ty, with that instinctive .kt • L
on, winch IS he infallihlo characteristic of t ^ al s
J^oiiu. iio IS dead, now, poor man! and witln.iit ev..|.
i';?;."!'- ,Tr" ' !•" '^^''r^''' '^''^"^=^i' ''■'^ BucccHHo link
lua. hol.llyathrm that she has lost .u.thin^ hy the c 1, ...
rsiu il'''- VT f *''^; ''•"•^" ^'^^ ^''^' ^Jarchic;nc:ss of s !; o
Mo ,s aid o have heen a partic-ular friend of Fer. n ,
time' t(uu '^V'"">^^''!'. ^^"^ "'"^'^ visited frequently at 1 '
time hy Mlk. ,le Mo„t, , o, ,unv Empress) I fo.m.Mn lo
place ot iny hut which was new, o,/o ko ,>l,l an of «, h
Hn,s;ular shape, that despite my goo<l nature, I couMu
keep from Imully protesting a.ffuinst the (-ha mro ( ,,. •
ny tnends hear.! me, and tou,.he.l ^vith .ny' misfo ,ne
promMled to exa.nine the fossil chapeau 1 ha,l in my a s'
^V'f ^H*^ V ''"'^ ^'."' " "" t'^« hat of the hushand o \l ' ' J
okl hata. \V hereupon I aj.proaclied the Count and 8 nrp
•nou.rh, he liad my hat under his arm. He n ade me !
thousand excuse8_for after all he ^yas a ^rentleman- md
to our mutual satisfaction we entered once moro in?n ,'
session of our legitimate eoitiures. '"^° J'"''
• WV^ ' J*!^ ' !. -i J^* ' .fe^^U- ^U- ' '1 ' - ^ ' < ' '"
I
200
yOTES OF A PIANIST.
Wo leave to-morrow for Wmiam.l;ort. i" r""''),'™;|V;:
I l,a4 sive.1 tl,i» ««k ten concert. ... «.x .lays ... tc. ,1.1
''lltht'havo go,.e this cve„i,.s *" 1'™' ''■« fVl'[;
iXr ,„n.-,stor, who. ^X^St" .-"ncw 't,l" or
r,.7.miiy.ulu,,,.,isi,c.a;Ti,c,,..e,ug^^^^^^
tivc brotl.crs, ..11 iiii..istci-a, ai.i oiic "sto . -\''»l;'™ f^ r .L
c,.tl,..ria.m with which ho conihats tS'tho h- v ' Wc y
rarl; where he «m„ot fail to di»tu.g..i»h h.m>.eli.
WituA».po«T, r»., Monday, Jmie 15, wra.
Left Elmira this mcn.i.is at 4 o'clock. Amve.l at \W -
•;^--:^i;^;orcoi^i^:!^
S;.VSra™rcCfi;,\erat"i the ^laee that ..nthtds
mc of the Swiss villages.
4 V. M. The town is all in commotion A dospatch
has lecu received auuouuciug the mvasion of the btatc by
I
reniisylvania.
ays iirteu dit-
the Rev. Mr.
told be irt but
if bis brotbor,
isidorod to bo
S"e\v York or
are nunisterB,
ration roi'kons
iidam Beecber-
i Cabin.' The
great notoriety
le impassioned
He is the idol
hey bavc lately
iitbs' voyage to
\s accepted the
before going to
imself.
y, June 15, 1863.
Arrived at Wil-
W ilbanisport is
housand inbabi-
lIs 'Ice Creain.'
,e Inland of St.
ende' (a Danisb
■tubs, and where
cines. The mil-
the roar of her
he probably tries
e makes one sus-
In the window
hats, the formed
ce baskets cmpt>/.
i is an air of ease,
ace that reminds
ion. A despatch
a of the State by
/-AA- ,1A7; M-CLELLAX.
201
three columns of Uol,,].., nmn-binir on tbo ,..,mt.l Tl. ,
despHtrlMsp]a.,,i-dnlonu]ltlu. st.vc-t ,•<> ,■ ^ ^ V ;. ^'"'
ragiT to ],„„„.„„,,„„ if, ■'""•> ■''"■0« m„ly „„.l
< htatnig espionage at tlio same tim. nonfali/o lo s ^
\ ims tboy miglit otherwise ren<ler. The iK'or.le hen s^.K . J
-becessu>n^.ts to-niglit, Unionists to-,^oX, ^^r^.'
threatening Washington .L fbrnlidZ;' fir twV"^
and with the- ,nost darimrri im HI l^^. ''' ''r"";'™""' '■*' '''« l'''^'^^'^.
to be cuuceived of by any one of orl^ai; hiil^lS^^C^"'' '^ ^'"*-
rTv-*"--iw'-^'''
202
SOTES OF A riANIST.
^,1 u . lint the ('onfcdorate concral
and arram^t y monaoc 1 it Init the i ^^^^^^^ ^^
ha<l iiU-<l ort the flank ot J ^^ '^^^^^^^^^^^^ j^^, n,ana>uvr 's wore
clays Into the ^•^^t:;;^;;^;:;'i^,^taino«B conntvy, covered
Besides, 1 ^'•"J^y^^:'"''^ 5ntlnscc ed by rivers and brooks,
^vith iniponetrable ^^'^'f ;^;;"Vt^Xl J^^^ i^ ^o say,
,vith ^"^"^^^"^^^l^^^^'rVttod to «,nn^ or render inettt-
,vith all the ^^"^«^" .*^4\'^^,;" ,'T^^ ynmlly,
cient the vigilanec ot ^".f^ ;^,. J' f..^^ the .estiniony ot
Lee is a gr^^^S^''^"^^^" V^^JS S^^
General Scc>tt,_who '^^^'j^ it must not be forgotten
l,ost strategist "^^^^^^tul to t ack the Confederates on
that the 1"^'<^-''«1^//X^^tt^u themselves; and us an
their own ground ;thejUt erne ^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^,^^ g,,
.; V \( Another rtcsiiatfli from the Governor of ronn-
d„,te.lemtos, my> tl.o ''«1« !'■ 'fiY,,^,™! ,. Thi. last
town IS only loitj-n\e muc^ crowds multiply and
I go out mto '^'\f'fX^,lf„^i\o^ovo the shop of
increase everv ";«^{;;^-i^^l,l^^^ ot strawberries and her
;!::i£:ed llSs^^Je^Su'Lre, but the poor woman
appears terribly frightened. . ^^niams-
port) draws up m ^^^ttlc ar aj ^'\^' 1 ^ ^f Germans
It nicessary for me to «£*^^^^^,f ^s are Germans)?
(all the musieians m ^\\!'^^^l ^l^^^n ^xx^
There are five of them : ^^^X insKent), a cavernous
down eo.istUution I ^P^f^^J |^^^ f e larronet too high, a
7K i;;;i rris; vi«o=y':o -t sa- u, ,oue. i
II
derate ctneral
iind, tbimks to
ananivi -s were
Altered lor two
onntry, covered
era luul brooks,
I, that is to sa.y,
or render inetti-
iitiou. yinally,^
le testui'.ony ot
he ri-i»ellioii the
not he forgotten
(jontbderates on
lives; and us an
wi hoinlre m sit
tan ci'diro j>ara
honso that, even
lim out").
overnor of Pcnn-
to arms. The
zed ^Iartinsl)urg,
stown. Tliis last
te capital,
■ds multiply and
icforc the shop of
wherries and her
the poor woman
one in Williama-
i-incipal square ; is
posed of Germans
es are Germans)?
ton with a hroken-
ment), a cavernous
irionet too high, a
ilent and irascible
rough their hatred
ist otf its yoke. I
FAMILY OF THE PATHS.
203
of .l.isVoXmins ;.c.h;,'rt''''' '"""^ ""'">■ "'"" l'an>„.m„„i
of M urioo*Sn£tllWr'" "' ^^''f ■■'''"'":..•. wife
groat tri,„„|,|,s l's,ii,i tlmt SAn, , fi '"•'"ov"! ««iio
«o ho., la,,., uaok v-^;Xi;Ai'ii;r,a'r;,,t:H;:r """
204
yOTESOFA PiAMsr.
Is
fivov.arsa-o)xvasornu.en ly^uuc-^'^"^^^^^^^
] lor sons, httmv l?a ih . ■ tu.^ diantaute-, bravely
buss.> i.rofuiulu, au.l >1V>1^' :^;X i uilv. The clnl.hr.i ot
^hiurice Htrakosc-h, a ^ ' > ;;'rv"^e better kiunvn -, C'ar-
charnnn- compositions * r'!'\,^uul narvellous a-ility
lotta, ^vhose -■^'l^''}}''^.^'^'^,^^ j J n<.w exeit-mg in
have set wiUl the L VA^'' ,^ J^^^' '^^ { ^',i ni which Adclina
London a second -^l^tf/!.,.i'^\,,e Carlo and Adelina;
has gained there. ^ ^^''1' n. d\vith ; as to Carlo,
thcTast Europe is already "X^V ,f ^^^ ,' ^iventurous
tempor has led him to <-a>i^'''"'VX nnimerV, to New
i vod the violin in a veiy.renu ku k^ 1^^^^^^^^ ^^^^,,^
Vok, ^vhere he sung, ^"^/^■^^;|\" I ^^vhelv, utter haviiig
seventeen years ^^J^^l^}^^ i^i^ar led, it is said
been the hero c.t ^f^''\'-^'^''^^^^^^^ be<-ame nnis cal
enlisted as pnvato m ^^J^^^^IJ,^ battle bulletins,
leader, ^va8 killed and i'^^"; ^^^^ ^vho to so many
and is us well to-day "? f \. 1"^/,;^^^^^^ l^, 'what u iamilv 1
rnvilogcs add Jlud o tn n e ban, ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^,, ,,,,th
i^Si^:^.:eSlCe3U.t enumerated.
WiLL.,M8P0KT, Midnight, June 15, 1863.
I .i,.ested to Strakosch that tH^^n<^rt muunmced^
to-mon-ow at Hamsburg ^-^^'^f^^^S^ to be bom-
evident that people ^vho oxpec e try n^on\ ^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ;
barded are not in the ^^a « ot "^M^.Ke risk we might
'Eolian Murmurs,' '^tCMto ^^ay no "V ,,,ospect v.f a
run by rushing into tl^e lion den- l^^t t^ 1 ^^^^1^^^. .^^,,,.
good house, and the i;'^^'"\^ \ „f ^^^^^^ . ,af ear to me.
lion were exaggerated, ^.^'V^^^j^i^^^^^^.^^Vra vonng man, who
At the concert this eve^ni g, 1 ^''"^[^ {• ,_^,J „ot seem-
IXTEMPERANCE OF WOMAN.
20;-
;c(l tionie ft)uv or
.\v Y» rkinulaU
San FraiK'iseo.
[Olio, Antonio, a
intante-, bravely
The tliiltlrfn ot
iitti, niai-rifd to
liianist, wlioso
or kntn\ n ; Car-
irvollous aiiility
tiiowoxoitingin
11 whicli Ailolina
rloand AdoVma;
itli ; as to Carlo,
lu8 udvonturous
lexu'o (whoro he
iimnnor) ; to ^\•^v
•ood (ho was then
lero, after haviiii?
luarrk'd, it is said,
^•, bocamo nnisioal
ly battle bullotins,
,t*, who to 80 many
AVhat a t'annly '.
,.ot-arnis are worth
rated?
night, June 15, 1863.
cert announced tor
)0 given up. It is
noinent to be boni-
lear 'Cradle Songs,
f the risk we might
lit the iirositeet_i)t a
le rumoui-s ot" mva-
u deaf ear to me.
1 a voung man, who
on til-toe, not seein-
thk c.untry that m
•h noise as vossible.
■ot not being able to
iiisoribe thy nanio on my tablets, or have it oiK'-ravod in
letters of gold, in ordor that it may l)o liandod d.iwn to the
adiniratioii of posterity !
I leave to-iuorrow morning \.\v Tlarrisbnrir.
Making all allowance for oxaggeration, tlu'iv is nolonrror
any doubt that the ivbols are advancing towards tlie cimi-
tal, and 1 begin to tiiink that unless it be a jiart of tiie i.lan
of Strakosch to make me ].lay In-foro (Joneral .Jenkins and
his staff, our concert to-morrow will hardly oome off.
Another division, or rather army .orps, of which the
ooniniand of Jenkins is only the advance, is alroadv at Car-
hsl. , in the valley of the Cumborland. Jt is ooinnianded
by Ewell, the general thatStoiu-wall Jackson recommendod
on his death-bed, and designated as worth v of succeeding-
him ui the command of the famous Stonowail briirade. 'i'his
General Ewell has become famous for his rare i'ntrei.iditv.
lie has a wooden leg, which helms fiistened to his sadd'le
on the day of battle.
Stuart, the general of cavalry of Lee's armv, is youu"-,
handsome, brave, and generous. The last "in format ic'lii
havmo; been given me by a lialtimore belle, stroiiirly at-
tached to the Secessionists, as are almost all the laflios of
Maryland, I cannot guarantee its exactitude. A woman's
imagination is a deceitful prism through which she sees
everytliiiig rose colour (^r everything lilack, accordiiK-- as
she loves or hates the object which is reflected. This wou!d
furnish, if I knew how to write, matter for a very lono-
chapter, in which, acknowledging tliat it is the privilo<n3
of woman to inspire in us our noljlest actions, and to be
the source of all our poesy, I would dejilore the influence
which thtvy- so fatally exert over our conduct. JJut for the
women our civil war would long ago have been ended.
Th'V'Ugh their imprudent zeal, and' the intemiierancc of
thoir opinions, which, in politics as in other thiiiifs, carry
them beyond tlieir mark, tlioy have on both sides con-
tributed to foment the discord and to envenom the strife.
Quevedo, the great satirist, was accustomed to cry out v.hoii
any event, catasfophe, or crime was related to him, " Quicn
rs eOar "AMio is she?" Indeed, women are found at
the bottom of every social revolution, and in all the little
accidents of social life.
18
. mnr— mMJcaM
206
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
i
for some time nas '^ow uuuuv, .v. .> w.^, i --- , ^^ ,
toroc-ious .irnpVu-ity tho nuvssacre ot a 1 c-lasses in tlu. ^.^"t
.nul the 'strmiiC-iiH"(lo(l women' ot Isow Knglan 1, an h(
llllmalla the aimilmation of tlu. MoClellan P^;^'!^:^:
Tmhnoa with rrojn.lleoH, thoy oxeerato or ndore n j '^nc\-
T.k" a law, a race, as their raiuour or their i.er: onal attc.-
&wl;.em in this or that .liivetion; --^ ""^ \\l:
table they hecome heroie, without susveetinsr it lil^^ '^ ';
Jounlain? wh.) wrote prose without knowing it V^-V;^^
nn.l uiH-etlectintr, they commit with innocent tranknos
n^nstrous crueiTies, ai which their ton.lei' natures wm^^^^^
revolt if the hlin.hiess of their passion . ul not a n >t
alwavs prevent them from seeing rationally ami soheil^
-nV^ i^ou .nvinir entire faith to the stories ot .lewels inade
f o lon^s cra-rhercl on the hanle-fiehls I will cite that
v,>man of the South, who burst into laughter <'" ^_;;;:"g/[«
funeral procession pass by of a young K.lera ^ J ,^' ' V "Y,
noar Uaton-Koiige ; and that young mad woman ot the ^ oi tli,
A_- ])— 1, untbrtunately endowe.l with eloquence, who,
tor some time has gone about '1^;:^'!^"^' F^^-J;;;;!^;!!!
rtho
uisc
H 'S";oo'mX;;;;e";;;;;;;iB'vi;e'rebeis-and ti^ ..>.»«.
What do I say? The ladies of BaltinK>re o > ashvi k^
and St. Louis, crying as loud as they can baxl, llunali
J^^ Jetferfon Davil'^ in the presence of wounde<l lederals,
V aSl'up their children in Confederate flags, and making
iK^i sin- every time an otKcer of the United States passes
b 'My Slaryland' or 'Dixie,' for the purpose ot drawing on
tl mseives the prosecution of t^/*:^"^"^^'!^';^/^^!'^;
imr plausible the reproaches winch the enemies of the latter
mf keft? at it attacks women and chil.lren ; and my beautvtul
tailc fellow-citizens in New Ouleans, provoking the oth-
oe"-i (^- r.utler so far as to render indispeneable he regret-
abk m4 ires which that general thought it lus duty to
?re seeng a conflict becoming imminent on account ot
IheS h^LSnt hostile manifestations. Here is what a ymmg
offi er a friend of mine, wrote to me on this subject : "On
aS V ng a New Orleans I flattered myself that I Avas above
"ucl Utle annoyances; I had made up "^y^J"- t^;X"
.ider them as childish behaviour; but soon, I admit, the
CO iitor/ ons, the grimaces, the sneers of the women that I
met he in ulting care with which they placed their hand-
Silefs on their nose when they met me, or wiped their
•■«f«(-«»«*S3s;
GEXEIIAL nUTUCIVS ORDERS.
207
ndoro n | inoi-
■ jttT: '>imi attW'-
crvoas nii<l ii-ri-
insr it, like Mr.
o'it ; passioimto
R-eiit t'ninkiH'ss
• natures would
•lid not almost
Uy and soln-rly.
, of jowvlrt niado
I will cite that
ter on seeing tlie
ral otHeer. killed
iianot'tlieXortli,
I eloquence, wlio,
preaeliinf>; with
■ses in the 8outh ;
V England, who
in party, heeausc
and the women,
re, of Nashville,
II hawl, "Hurrah
ounded Federals,
Hags, and making
ited States passes
osc of drawing on
lent, or of render-
jmies of the latter
and my beautiful
•ovoking the offi-
'neahle the regrct-
ht it liis duty to_
■nt on account of
re is what a young
this subject : "On
f that I was above
my mind to con-
?oon, I admit, the
the women that I
placed their hand-
ne, or wiped their
dross if they had touclu.d mo in ,,assinir, tlio affectation
th winch tlu.y walkod in the n.ud in iho nudX , f .
3 1*"::': ':;; :;; ^^^it ^^^ i-— t wia-re i v:' ;:
• vol i;,7 1 r ''f^'^.l'>"i'"i>'t annoyan.vs, i., a
i|.;rection, and to .sp.. hk; t;^-;,;; ;:;;:;; ;;i:;;,i:r
iinmiliiition that von
I'liy, and eausc-d me u sort of ],ainful liumiiii.Tion tint von
r^i"""t irnagme; and neverthdc.ss these insn Iv ' h
, .M ^r ' „"o^^'<^ver, witliont m.<lortat:in.r to mike
S^ e^ ;hv S' i""' '"•:;"'/" ^'"'''^'^ ^^y '-^^ i-'--'" ' r
u a.ij, MliK-l, says that 'every woman who .],.>11 ;„
su t an ofheor or soldier in the streets will be c . i, L* 1 .',"
m,t con.-ern me. Is it diffienlt to Jndire by this a .^•.. t
0:^:^7^^' a-1 eonsecfuently h!ul noticing to li;^ J «
I do not like war, and military glory affects me but
shditly when it is not jnstiti..lI>y^iV.at pri Sn .!
I almn war and that of the war of Llepe Lie ee in
Hdi^l^l;:] ^;\r"j''^- .^^-"^--i-i womJ^ «
ct^ es t bo V^^^V r^^^ odious as soon as their nussion
'Ladv do For i- V'^^^^'-'T'. V^ ^-''""ty, and devotion.
SMy do lorli, of wliom Mach ave speaks, was -m nn
natural mother, an in.leeent v,raffo ; C'la riot e C oril v ^"
tJieboutl and North, who phu-e themselves in their b-d
i with
. ,l/H.+i, 1 !>', . """. '""n iiisuu, Tiie august m
horror! ^ '^''^'^''^'''8 ndieulous emblems, till me
It is one o'cloc\- in the morning. Thev beat the 'to
ear't^me" "° "'^' '''"^"■^'' ^^mkoseh turns u .leaf
208
,\OTES OF A riAMST.
CIIArTEE X.
T....O IP, 4 o'clock in tlio morning.
Wiu.iA.MflPOUT, June It*. * " '^'"'^"-
i- ,., ^^\^(^ novcrnor onU'rs all tuo
c leaves for •>"'"*'"t:V,l's; ,,K Army. Sad war!
SSli;S;;r£to teU\\,a„.» in „.ir ,.,„.,
I,TI.ECAR9ONT«BB0AD.0llAKn.SDUno.
BecMly, Hagorstown ;. jn l^-^t^i^^tiSi^'S
rates. The Govem()r enjoins the iun|<^ 1 ,^^ ^^ ^ij^.
a<L all the cnnty ban-ek ^vlach ^1 ^nl whU-h arc
pose of; tlicy v.-x\\ '^'l^^lZT All along the mul wo
Ic, be thrown up. at ";^^ ^^^^^ f \,attle array and perform-
sec the agriculturists in '^^'"f' "'%,,.„, disposed to obey
big n^i^i^^^^T evolutions They aUB^^ ^^^ able-bodied
rrrioi!lt^qreueniy,and to take the Sus-
beguis to see V^^^^.^'^J^f ' ^.^i^cr The train continues to
It is ten o'cloc-k in the mornin . J- Harrisburg, tiiat is
advance at the highest ^^l^^'Vtl e dtV nmst be^attacked
I say towards //?'^kins, suuc tW^ ^^^^^^ ^^.^ ^^^^
Sr^-t ii;!: »t;;:^U«tiou; but our^lves,
'm^^
AN AS X 10 US noun.
200
It in tlio morning.
orders all tbo
;e of the State
;8S, an«l a iDajor
iitbnuotl WW that
iit. Another of
Lrmy. Sad warl
cac-h other l)y
rrihle strife may
w m their hands I
DAD TO IlAKBlSDUKO.
,1 of the Confede-
Ytlace before tlieir
may have to dis-
icationrt whii'h arc
Joni? the road we
rray and perform-
dii^posed to oV)ey
n-s all al)lc-ho<lie«l
1 to take the Sna-
ast station apsnrcs
e than thirty miles
itened. Strukosch
e train continues to
Ilarrisbnrg, tiiat is
must he attacke(l
What shall we do i
tioii-, but ourselves,
confSr"'^' l'^'-'""^-^^-'"^^ '^ ^<> '--oine of u, u. all this
1P.M. A mile tlus side of Ilarrlshurir the road ^^
• ",!""- ,'•>,"" ^li« l«ime'"^e muHH of mereliandi^i. eh-
iuh for the last twelve hourn has been c..nec' tte^^^^^
e town to avoid capture o- burniuir by the v Is The
ui; natl-hv-^ Th ^^'''^'S' }'^^ '"-'K^over 'Ihe 5„4 ^
iian .1— w |,j .^ j|,e anxiety niereasfs. ('an voii .Mm... Un
urn; hm^ mo.v temhl. than the expe..tatio^ ,/ ,.e^^ u"
;; .K .fly-n.fbrted, and the i.lia Jt^iZ t he S "; ^
at thiH tune is not at all encoura-inj;. JJut the U . st . .
iHK ...the middle of the bri-l.^efthS sile,^ , I'Sn 1^
the so htude whieh surrounds us, the river whoLTo a I
tremuloiLs waves murmur beneath our feetTaud abmx.
our iKnoranee of what is taking? plaee in from an \vl
I w aJk ot U\ enty minutes. Wc fine at the enti-ance of tbo
depot pik.s, nay mountains of trunk., encunibe • h he w
pneot the mountains has been tunnell... v n.; V -^i*
locomotive. . l>ise.nbowelledV.-mS^^ ..o^, i ! J; ! "Ii:^
iS-;n^^^^^
ni.„ o. f " ^ ^"^ J"*^' ^^"^'^'^ « ^^'m^'^ of my two
pianos-the cowardly mastodons—TChi .kerinir fom-iZ „, u
snu-ly lying m a corner and in i^foc-t healt b ^^ '^ 'f "^
mas^Klons .vhidi Chickering nl.ul^^ pj ' ^ ^'^Z Hi
ou mo m all my i.eregri nations. The tail if the e Vnon-
ster pianos measures three feet in width. Their S.Zis
210
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
ton fcot- tlH'V liuvo Hov.'n nn.l a l.alf o.H4ivc«, nn«l wUli tlu'
. ::l:/tl.l lonni.h.l.U; aPP— - '''TVn: 'n;"'^
,,„.l olK..ru«nt .Iccilitv to tl..- least Miowmfnt ot i .> ln.^,.1^.
r l'l«Tn« So,.H (Ol.i.k.nnK, flu; fatlu-r, the «;""<;'
•h- la our an.r.onstrurtiv. talent, .mven tor none t urn.
nVt a mu'nse in,,.nlsi..u to the n.anutaetnre ot jnanos.
Ci n a.-t<.rie. at UoHton tun. out tortv-two |.,an.H a
!v ' ^/ K V ' hun.lre.l worknu., ..re eonstantiy euM-loved n.
them The later instrunu'nts, eonHtruete.l on new no.lels oi
Their ou'l Invention, rival, if they do not .my..^ the hnest
^'ySowtlS "^V l>-a'-t l-"t at the hlea of leaving, these
t. > ; "e";:,n^aniis of n.y lite ex,<.se.l to t k- c .n,ars ot
a hoinhanhnont or an attack hy assau t. ';,'•;
I'erh-iiH to-mon-ow you will have lived ! ^ «>u w dl pioD-
ihwXr^o kd the tine hivouae.iire -^ ^^!l^ ^^^T'Z
(' nfederate soldier, who will sec with an m.litlerent e>o
^; Mlirmonious howels consumed -itho.d any jvganl h.
the three hundred concerts which you luixe sunnul a.
tile ti. Wity with which you have L.llowed mo in my
"^¥;;"Sy^S^;S to he attacked every moment Thivo
thou and i.ers,U arc at work throw n|i up ^'''trcnehmo , ..
The clerjxy (many hundred persons), m a meet ng wh h
took V lace on this Kuhject, have placed themselves at the
Vspommi of the Goveinor, to he employed jor 1k> de encc
of the city. TriestH, pastors, rcctoi-s, ministers ot all
aen^ii:^fcnB,are at't4 monvent -J^ged "i wd.ecding
h-irrowa full of earth and in digging P^« Vf, • -K
Daiiowa i"'' *'; » ,. ^ y j^ to send this evening
twoTthre S^^^^ ^'-- X-k f^ 'ir
^.c^'lT eont^i^ont. The ^vc.ith Ke^mei. ot J^
X-itional Guards s already on the wa\. llns "^^-gi"^^"}'
wh we fine .liscipline Prince Napoleon so mtua. admired s
romv>ose of yo ing men of the aristocracy ot the nuprad
city Many other rogimentB of volunteers aye soon o
follow Evcryhody here exce).t women ami children ap-
peal disnoe-V to ifght. The llishanded otiicers and men
S the last nine months' levies have met and re-tormod
their old regimentis.
sh\sAT/<>\.t/. \/:\is.
•Jll
in<l witli tlu»
11 rlmniiinj!;
■ my liiijU'.rf*.
,' touiitU'i' <>l
iu-s>) l.av«', l»y
r Homo timo
I IV of itiinios.
-two iiianos a
■ fiii|iloyt'tl ill
\c\v iimdi'lrt of
(iisH till' tinrHt
loaviiig those
lie cliaiKTrt of
I'oor iiiatios!
'on will proVt-
H)iiu' ohsfuro
iiditl'i'ivnt «'yo
my rt'gard for
Hurvivi'd aiul
d me ill my
omeiit. Three
,'ntreiulimeiit<*.
neotiiig which
mselves at tlie
for the defence
init«ters of all
'i\ in wheeling
lor the shari»-
ud this eveinng
York also fur-
ttiment of the
I'his regiment,
nch admired, is
of the imperial
rs are soon to
lid children ap-
fticerrt and men
and re-formod
p. P. "SI. A halt. TV nf lu-lilicry parses :it full trailM|,.
AVe arc crushed in tin- iiiid>t tif tlic crowd, .loins's ilniil
is u ([iiarter of n mile oil". XnnicroiH groups Ktand iM-fore
tli(» telegra|ili otiii'c. Tlie l-i'liels, file dcs|iiili lies jiuiioMiiee,
are ciglilecu miles oil". All llie sliops are closed, juid most
of the liouscs from the garret to the ct-lliir.
" Decidedly our coiKcrt is done fori" exclnims iim jiiteous
voice my poor Stiakosch, A\lin has just returned froui u
voyug*' of discovery. The retlcction is u rather late oii",
and nroves that my excellent I'rienil and agent is n hopetul
yoiitli, and trusts to the last, like Micauher, that sonu--
thiiig w ill ' turn up.'
The hotel is ovi'rruii hy a noisy crowd, in which [
recognize manv Xew York rcjiortcrs, sent in haste hv tlu'
great journals ui the hope f)f furnishing their reailcrs'with
sensational news. Sensational news is a new svnoiivme for
'u canard.' The three preti'iidcd captures ot' Charleston,
and that of \'ickshurir, a yi'ar ago, tlu,' death of .Icffcrsoii
|)avis, an<l so many otlicr canards have hccn irr>f iii;/(i<i(iii.^
caiit/iiixitioiis of the newspapers, and thanks to Which, hy
causing the sale of many millions of ' hullctins,' tiiey have
realized eiiornjous jtrotits. Unfortunately everything'^ wiars
out in this world, and credulity is so (leadened, that now
everything is douhted. I hear some people around me who
assert that the rehels liave never stirred from their general
quarters on the J 'otomac. This is going too tiir. A icji
merchant of the city, who was riding out this morning in
his eciuipago drawn hy two splendiil liorses, was liiado
prisoner hy the Confederate vedettes. His liorses and
carriage were seized, and he was not released until he liad
sworn not to make any remarks on what he had seen in
the rehel camp, I have just Hjioken to him. The news-
papers have told the truth ibr once.
"Dinner, gentlemen!" A general rush to the dining-
room. The hotel is just now'literally invaded. I sueccinl
with great diffieulty in finding a i)lace at the tahle. The
faces of the peojile ahout me are tilled with alarm. (Jut-
sido niniours are repeated in a low voice. The poor hlacks
who wait upon us look so sad and suitpliant, that it would
seem to me laughahle if I did not know the liorrors of.
slavery and the fate reser\ed for the free negroes of tlie
n
2^2 yoTKS or A /-/.i.v/>r.
":^/ M Jain unni Th. (w.v.n...-, i.y u i"--!;;'";';;:;;;'
1 Ua ., tlu. Htatc" ill which tho city i- at |.ivKcnt, it t U!
;;^l!i:kV^:LncinK they will take tw
,,■„,.. ahlc to luako the leant resistance.. It '^^Z";; '
ho ci ti/.cnH aro u.hUt anus or working uj.on J';, '^■
ai.is- hnt these fortitications,thr..wn np ni a tew houi-s,
^e i cJ, III or sustaining an attack |. r!jf., a.nK .n -my
ea'o will n..t l.o of any use unless the Cunledorutes guo
tiiuJ lor the ilefence to ho organize.l.
I see -ill alon" the river great clou.ls, of diiHt; it is tioni
thJ iKTels o c Ttlo whic-h the iVightenc;! fanners arc . riv-
ig tow mis the mountains, in hopes of hahng tl.en. im
tlu; rehels The ivport spreads that a spy has )Ust beeti
n Uel A vcmng inanwh..Nvasw(.rking on the tort.ti-
eato was k'ille.l^ moment ago hy falling from an em-
ha knu^ twenty-four feet high. (!reat ^'onstenmio !
Gtneml Miln.y, a>mman.li.g the avant-guardof the K lo-
rd A n v hastn defeated • Viso<pnpage is m the posscM-
sSn of tii'e enemy, and his unay route<E The olhcers ot
m he et n maiKl, arrives this evening to place himselt at
Ki ;,r ; fimna, a,,.! , 'I'nt an,l «in take g,.«l ca... not
:;'l,;,t hM rlmviug at-tl.. l..-«-„lc.„.ial chau- after
Liueoln.
•»t('f«. 'Tlio
iiuTiil kiifil.
tliroiijfli tho
Tin- ccUllti-
wi'iiirt to l)t'
ijruyiu'ss ot'
lii'ii a negro
roilli; to Ull!
iroc'iiiiiinlion,
ircKi'iit tlii'iii-
nwnt, if tlu!
t without itrt
< true that all
)ii tlic lortiti-
i a tew hours,
', aiitl, in any
tcdomtcrt give
iHt ; it irt fnviu
uorrt arc driv-
ii<r thi'Ui from
hurt just hirii
on tiio t'ortiti-
r from au ein-
courttoniation!
(I of tho Fedo-
1 in tho possos-
rho olHcers of
ion. The groat
o is the idol of
lias taken from
laoo himself at
erush Lee and
; ho irt thought-
good oaro not
certain chant'oa
tial chair after
UI'.MIiF.CMin'S nMiUFR.
218
Old men, Women, and eliildri'n mv Ituving the eltv. A
train lelf this inoniing carrying off many tlioiisand f'niri-
tiyes. Our position in a few hours has liei'ome verv crifjcul.
\N'«' camiot ad.ance, and I fear lest our n'treat should lie
tut off, A militia regiment passes at ([uiek-slcp; it is
going to tlie front. They are, for the most part, young men
frniu fourti'cn to eighteen years old, Tliey muriiiur aitntly
against I'hiladeljihia, which, heing the primipal «ifv in tho
Stato (numhering six hundntl thousand inhaltitants), has
not yet sent one reginn'ut of its National (iniirds to dt ftiid
tile seat of g()vernment, while the distant States (.f New
Jersey, New York, and even l{liodo Island, have already
fiflt'i'U or twenty thousand men on the road for Harrishin'g
antl tiu! valley of the Cumherland.
A train leaving in an luair for Philadelnhia, we run to
tho station. Strakoseh will remain h«'hind to sea re h fur
our trunks, which have hcen missing these two hours. My
tuner has lost liis head ; the two mastodons of Chiekeringrt
liavo disaiipeared, and the t'xpri'ss company declines to ho
responsihie for them. Too ohstinate Strakoseh, why in tho
world did ho mako u« como to ilarrishiirg!
IlARiii^irnn, Jiiiic Ul.
I have lately learned from an ex-oflicer of Heauregaril's
(no'- retired from tho army) that thi' latter has for his har-
her iiudjhrfdhiiu a young Spaniard, who is attached to liini
and follows him everywhere. Hy tho most singular coin-
eidenco, this is no other than Jfauimi, tho Vitth- i/ilmio that,
wlieii quite a child, I adopted in Spain, and that some of
my friends will remeinher to have seen in his picturescpio
Andalusian dross, when some years ago I arrived in Now
York.
T met him in 18')!, half naked, running tho streets of
Valladolid, and making little wax figures. ' IIo u ,is <lying
with liunger, and not wishing to asks alms, ho otle-ed to
tho i)assor8 hy the simjilo products of his art. He was seven
yoai-s old. Almndonod, ho said, hy his j)aronts, tho noor
child had forgotten oven tho name of tlio town inwhi(
was horn, and only romcmhored the harsh treatment w ....
lie suffered from his father, a gitano (gypsy), like liimself
Attracted hy liis intelligent look, I adopted him. At tho
he
ich
1/i
214
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
c'.d of some wecks,Rainou was traiistbniie(l,thank8 to acom-
l)k'to uuijo costume whieh I had iiuuk- for him, and thanks
aW) to that happy thom?htk>ssness of ckildhood, whu-li tof-
L'ets the tr()nl)k"s of the evening, and eonceak with a golden
veil tlic darkness of tlie morrow. lie accompanied me tor
ci<'hteen months through all my travels in Spam. Kamoii
soon became cckhratetl. His ' (iracia,' his ' Sal Andaluza,
the history of his ad')ptioii, and his embroidered leggings,
ma<lc a little hero of him. The (iueen asked to see him,
an<l as a faithful ludnhjo, he had the honour of presenting
to her maiesty his chrf-'lmi^'n\ nVitth waxen hnll, m which
he luid displaved all the resources of his talent, and Avhich
da//.led less by the exactitude of its contour, than by the
originality of its pose. I even think I remember that this
bull was grotes(nic,hutas Ramon had the taith which saves
in art as'in other things, I presided gravely at the presen-
tation to his sovereign of the work ot my protege, and
perhaps the poor boy still flatters himselt every morning,
in shavuig his general, with the intoxicating illusion that
his bull ornaments one ot the galleries ot the Alca/.ar
^'Tcalled to France, I embarked at Cadiz for ^larseilks.
The vessel putting in at Almeria, we landed, Kamon an.l I.
Arrived at the Pia/.a de Armas, my attention was attractc.l
by a Bohemian (gypsy), who pei-sevcTcd m tollowmgus lor
Sine time and attentively observing Monsmir Ramon. A 1
at once they flew into each others' arms ; ' l)u)s niio, ' ^ r-
gin Mariaf' It is my brother! it is thou! i^^^^j}^
theatre, and there they are still embracing. "Scnoi, Mid
£ non to me with an expression which did little honour to
his patriotic feelings and in which I saw less of tcndeniess
than .>f fear, » Sefior, I know the bouses ; it is here where
mv > padre' beat me so much." ^ l.e croNvd, dmwii by this
touclin- scene, commenced with ;hat kindness for strangei.-,
which diaracteri.es the people of Andalusia to ninrninr
loudlv against 'My Lord' (everything in Andalusia A\hK i
is not Spanish is 1^:nLrlish or French) who wished to sepa-
rate a child from its lawful guardians. ,T „ t,
Thev made Ramon understand that he had nothing to
fear, tliat he was at home, that I had no more right over
him ; but the poor little fellow, little reassured by the idea
lankatoaoom-
n, and thanks
i()(l, which for-
with a f>j()l(leu
panied nic for
pain. Kaniou
<al Andahiza,'
lerod loggings^,
ed to see him,
• of pro.-ic'nting
1 hnll, in wliifh
L'nt, and Avhich
ir, than by the
'nibcr that this
th which wivL'S
' at the prc'son-
y protege, and
every morning,
g illusion that
f the 'Aleazar
; for Marseille:*.
L, Kamon and I.
Ml was attracted
following us for
nr Ramon. All
Dios mio,' ' Vir-
! just as at the
" Scnor," said
little honour to
}ss of tenderness
it is hero where
1, drawn by this
icss for strangers
isia to nnirmur
Uidalusia which
wished to sepa-
had nothing to
more right over
ured by the idea
FATHER RAM OX.
215
of agam finding the paternal tent, and frightened at the
].erspective ot the enchantments of nomadlife, whose for-
gotten souvenirs were now oiiening before his eyes with
menacing brightness, the poor little fellow said, clin.ri.isr
tomo, more dead than alive, -8enor, per Dios, lurme
rn''*"/ V 1 ^* *''■ ^'"^ ^''''^ ''^' ^'*^^^' ^'^^'"^"•' *1" "'^t i'or>iako me.)
Iliat did not ai.pear to be the wish of the crowd ; as the
ones, "Lot us rail the alcalde; to prison with the kidnapi)er
ot children! made themselves heard. I endeavoured to
make an explanation. "Xo a la careel." I must refe; "t to
the decision ot t^eiior Corregidor, and here we are on the
Auiy, i at tiio lu'ad, IJanion hanging on to mv greatcoat, and
the crowd pressmg on my heels. The Corregidor was fortu-
JS, •^;.'P!./'""''f^ ^"^"'- ^I« li'-^'l lic'ard ine in Madrid.
Ala toi, J.e said to me, "I can do nothing in this matter;
the child has a iather, it is for him to decide." His father
alter having boen a horse dealer at fairs, some years since
joined con amore the armed contrabandists.
Having, at the moment when he had brouglit one of his
commercial operations to a haj^py conclusion, met a refrac-
tory custom-house officer, he had very gently dispatched
hull with a blow of a 'Xavaja.' -^ » ^ i
The knite was found near the corpse, Father Ramon
was arrested, confessed, and had just been condemned to l)e
garroted, that is to say strangled (the punishment still
used m t^pain). He was in a cell on the erround tloor of the
Careel publica. Without taking the trouble of enterin.r
the prison, the Corregidor, who had wished me well, took
charge ot the negotiation, and as Ramon, myself, and the
crowd (now the entire town) had followed, explained to
Jiiin the state of affairs— the windows of the cell walled up
to the hei^ght of six feet terminated by an iron gratini
whuh, while It permitted the light to enter, prevented tlTc'
prisoner trom seeing out or being seen. " A rich English-
man (. ? ) shouted the Corregidor to him, » has adopted your
son Ramon AV ill you authorize him to take him with
him into his own country?" Soon a doleful voice was
heard! -My son Ramon, the child of my bowels, Jesus
Maria A irgin del Carmen ! Abandon him to an English-
man ; \ on cannot think of it, Senor CoriViridor !" "lie is
right," said the crowd ; and I avow I did hut "know well
21G
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
xvlnt to answer. I lookcl at Ramon ; ho had such a i.itifnl
:!untonanr Uslook was so elo,nent, that 1 felt wilhn. to
luakc. a last atten.i.t. I .losiml the (V.rrc-ulor to dnve awa
the erowd and i-ennit me to sneak privately if^^^^^
walled wuxlow hetween ns) .vith father Kan.on. In .ho. t
the result of the eonsultation was that at he end ot nxe
mimites, the softened erowd could see two hands issue he-
tween the Lars of the window (ahsolutely as in the tine pie-
tuieof Panl Delaroche representing Lord Mattord when he
receives tlic henedictiou of m which we perceive
only the hands). I pot upon a stone, I |.lace< «;";'<; r/,^.
three dollars into one of the extended ha.us, and led a n a
the son of Mr. Ramon, who his lather decla.r.l he alan-
oned to mc as my entire y-roperty. The people apphu.lj U
felicitated Ramon, still hlue from fright, cne< out A n.
el inSesl" reconducted me as far as the vesse , an.l woulu
have carried me in triumph if my natural modes y an.l m^
imi'.tiint desire to ho rid of my new friends had not heen
opposed to it.
Haurisdcro, Juno 16, 4 P. M.
The tocsin sounds, the drums heat a call t<. arms. ^Mili-
tary hands parade the streets, playing national a'rs t c
national flag is home amid acclamations, and produces an
Sesl^Jihahi; enthusiasm. i^^test.^r,hivt at tlj. mm^^^
I feel as if I should love to he a soldier, ^o?'/ /^^^'l • ^^ ^''^^
doe. military enthusiasm. amount to? A little musu a
™t deal c/ noise, arms which glitter in the sun and the
y-o vd who look on! Admirahle Bimphcit^' <.t means,
vhila would appear providential^ to me it 1 '^^^:^J^
member that hoth si<les possess the same elements ot enthu-
Si, ciw<l, sun, and noise, and consequently the same
^'^i;;:it;llrSris th. tmth? ^liich are the martyrs?
Wl ch are the executionei-s? Jefferson Davis decrees
tha kso-i ing to the Almighty for the manitV^t rrotection
M .hie gives to the Confederate arms; Lincoln onlers
u lie m|l-rs to ask of God continuance of his favour to
Kl^gloKs starry Hag, s^-mhol of j-ti^e and of clvlh^a-
tioir it is in the name of outraged liherty that the ^ovu
S it Riclimoiid demands the national independenee ot
1 such a i>itiful
Ic'lt willing: to
r to drive mvay
tely (save the
ioi\. In ^■llOl•t,
the end of rive
hands issne lie-
in the rine j>i(-
aftord when he
I'h we iiereeivo
[U-ed eantionsly
,and I led away
flared he ahan-
[>l)le ayiphmded,
•ied out, "Viva
ssel, and wonld
nodesty and my
la had not been
Juno 10, 4 P. M.
to arms. !Mili-
tional airs ; the
md ]>ro(Uu'es an
t at this moment
Stood God! \vhat
L little ninsie, a
the snn, and the
iieity of means,
if I did not re-
ements of enthii-
uently the same
ire the martyrs?
n Davis decrees
mifest protection
; Lincoln orders
I of his favour to
5 and of civiliza-
that the Govern-
iudcpeudenco of
FLIGHT AT llARRISnCRG.
217
the South, and inflames the ardour of its troops in the
name of the same lilierty whi«h at Wnshiiiirton I'k'ctritii-s
the jiopulation of the Xorth, and puts on toot an army of a
million men to repulso the pretensions of the South. "jJoth,
iKMU'trated by the sanctity of their cause, cut each otlier's
throats in emulation of one another, and dn- like hi-roes!
Moral: nian is a machine more lu'rvous than thouirlitinl,
a voltaic jdle clothed with Hesh, which jrives sj)iirks and
shocks when we know how to heat it. It does not l>cIoni^
to me to touch here these great questions, in order to resohe
them, or to mix myself in the troubles that disturb my
iinhapjiy country. I have my opinions, but they matter
little. What was I thinking of, to "o and throw myself
among the briers of ].olitics 'i When I give my \)v\\ license
it runs at random and does a thousand foolisir things, like
a female iiarrot let loose in a guava tree.
One train leaves at rive o'clock, another left at two
o'clock. I doubt if the one which is promised us can ac-
commodate the constantly increasing crowd of four or five
thousand pei-sons which presses into and around tlie station.
]-,itters are ]irovided for the sick, many arc occupied by
wounded soldiers, who will not be left here. Immense
trains of merchandise continue to ai/ive. The jianic in-
creases. It is no longer a fiight, it is a flood,- -a general
s<iin-e f/)ii jx'ut. It would seem, seeing the jirccijiitation
with which the iidiabitants abandon their city, that the
rebels were already iu sight. Trunks, boxes,'bundles of
clothes, furniture, mattresses, kitchen utensils, and even
pianos, ave piled pell-mell on the road.
Carriages, carts, chariots, indeed all the vehicles in the
city have been put in requisition. The jioor aie. moving in
wheelbarrows. A trader has attached to Ins'-ivftnni'bus,
already full, a long file of spring carts, trucks, busrtjies,
whose ownei-s had probably no horses, and drags them alono-
to the great displeasure of his team, whicli sweat, frf)tir,
and fall, under the increased weight of the load. A long con-
voy comes in with ten locomotives in front. It brings can-
nons, caissons, and many steam-engines in course of conhtruc-
tion, which have been sent to Ilarrisbiirg to ])revent their fidl-
ing into the hands of the enemy. The confusion is at its
height. Cattle bellowing, frightened mules, jirancing hoi-ses,
I
NOTES OF A FIASIST.
you sec here the I'^f^^^^XsclNv^at business luul y()a
iVurore.' Ah, iiupn^^^'"* btiakoscn,
in this cur-.-(l vWy'i .^^^^.u.^^, J have counted, thirty
The static.i is ^V^^'^^J.^^"^.,, V ^c tiiose around then.,
at a tina.. They look K\» ^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ,trikin.,' and bel-
I'ufting, out ot ^^^{'^;^io see a horrilde troop of
lowinj; at eaeh V^^^^^-[.''t wbre a ee<^1ou'ic-al flood. .
antedihn-ian annuals flj^^^^^^^^^^ it'c-nsists of eight
The traui leaves in a ic^^ momj^ ' .Uousand pei-
rhe train leaves m a^- .^T l^Bt t. ihou-d per^
uinc cars, in \yhieh arc puui " ^ ^ r^.j ^,.oi„on arc
,s. Wcarclikclierringsinaba cl ^^^^^. ^^
lorn. Wcarclikclierinngs^naua c. .^^.
sitting on each ^^^f;J'l^^Zo\nAioivooxn^s\nch_i^
children ^^,^^:]:^^y^ C^ nnr^^ the heat is m-
not oceupied. N\ e are i>uij^ .iii-oadv made to-day a
tolerable. Remember tl^t I !»• ^f ' ^f ,4^, from here to
journey of .even hours ad a J^ »y»'^^ ander-
i'hila.lelphia th.'re is as \"^/;^/X^^^ just knl mc to
stand how I curse }^yjf^^ eiovoranei and audacity
give my seat, which h> /^; \;^^\ J'^^ ,,,,^ lady. She (the
Shad succeeded m capturing, to a )om g; ^^^ ^^^^^ ^
young lady) did not ';y^'";.';^^/sX' among the ladies
vide.*H>reud error m ^>^. f " {^'\,^^^ been willing to
(not olie of my tcinalc i"^"^^^;^J^ believing themselves
Unowlc^gc it), -l';;^^-;f^^,n;i^;^ons Wards the
exempted from all "">' '^^^ ^ ^^^ ,,>gards as an impre-
lu-rson "-^^"I'tlnMak ralt.>g^^^ only the resiilt
seriptible right ^^\vA, taku a « ^^ ^.^^y^^., to whom m
of voluntary homage. Ut t^^"; \;\-^,^. ^r for whom I have
xny travels I have S^'^^^'^^.u^v, or ottered my
lowered a window or P^i^k^ ^^V ;,,i,^
hand to get down, I Im »^ ^ .f ^Xlly abstahied from
sevcn-eigliths « . t\-" ^^J^^ ,^ K I reld TroUope on the
thanking mc. t P J*' ,y;.f, "J"^ ^his reserve to an exception
rnited States,! had a inhuted^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^,^.^,^^ j ^
made in my i'^^'^l^^'v "^.'V^.^^S^ of the charming smile
wHUi ni^-SMHMHM
LAST VESTIGE OF CHIVALRY.
219
the liVmaing
l)U>aiir' (Do
ill ' Ma taiite
iiness had you
•ountcd. thirty
arouml them,
kiiii,' and bel-
ri-ibic troop ot
al flood.
iisists of eight
thousand per-
'he women arc
ding, and the
room ^vhich_l3
the heat is in-
made to-day a
it from here to
•on may under-
jnst led me to
ce and audacity
lady. She (the
jejing in this a
uong the ladies
heeu willing to
i-ing themselves
m "towards the
ds as an impre-
only the result
idie.H to whom in
jY whom I liavo
,r, or ottered my
pocket-l)ook that
abstained from
;l TroUope on the
to an exception
1 star which had
e charming smile
■r sex pays to trie
of which I ba^'tJ
TroUope, are the
same prerogatives that all my brothers of the ruder sex
enjoy.
Gallantry', the ladies should not forgot, no longer grows
on oarth as in the days of chivalry; it is the last vestige of
an epoeli when many things were believed in wliicli are
since (lead ; it is to-day a delicate flower, a hot-house plant
wliich would die if it was refused the fecundating ravs of
their smiles. Ihit it is two o'clock in the morning.' AVV are
at riiiladelphia. Fifteen liours and a half of railroad in
one day, without con. Mng our emotions!
The devil take the poets who dare to sing the pleasures
of au artist's life.
.Tuno 17, 180...
Left rhiladelphia at C P. :M. for Xew Brunswick. ^Yc
are stopped on the road for three hours ; it is eleven and
a-half o'clock. We are stationaiy. The road having only
one line, we arc obliged to wait on a turn-out for a convoy
of soldiers who left New York at six o'clock and are to
])ass us at this station. It is probable that an accident lias
happened to it. In the mean time it looks as if we arc
to jiass the night here. Our locomotive has left us on a
voyage of discovery.
July 13.
Concert at Xcw London to-day. The drawing for re-
cruits has begun. That which was feared is now being
realized: the lower class — the Irish — resist. The tele-
grajih has just announced to us that they have set Are to
the buildings where tlie drawings take place. They are
armed. The authorities have ordered out the re<rular
troops now encamped at ' Morris's Island' to march to^'ew
York immediately. Blood Avill flow. The insurgents
having taken up the rails on the railroad feu* several miles,
the conmiunicatious are interrupted.
July 14.
The railroad bridge at Harlem has been burned by the
rioters. The news travels a long way round to reacli us.
The 'Trilmne' office has been burned to the foundations ;
the artillery is in the streets.
220
^'OTES OF A PIANIST.
July 1-i.
I f,Mina on mv puino (as it al^vay^; is at every cH>,u--rt) a
.Inr basket of tt..mMV. Al.nost all my l-uro. uove
; re " After the last i-l-re, an oM gentleman eaiue
f an<l nuule a si.eeeh, thank ng me, m the nanu- ot
t . ulience for the pk-asure whidi 1 had given tlu'in.
ItXml m^ a serenalle by the military band of the h.rt,
-vvhieh he eommaiids.
FiTCHBunoii, July 15.
Charming country, surmunded by ^^^^^ ^^
housiN are built on steep dec-livities. Ihe hotel is caiiai
Jru-hl U ll<.use.' At the hour for eomna-nemg the
einiK he heavens, which had been cloudy all day, oi.(Mied
an m od down cataracts of rain; the streets wore a to t
deei. in mud. Xotwithstanding tins wo had a respectable
audience, and I was enthusiastically encored.
Nashua, July 16.
rretty little town, like all those of XcwEnglancl, hidden
ri ; nt in the midst of the verdure of its gamens and
ot its a 1 Vr e ^ S news of the taking otVl'.n-t Hudson
t:^:d;:d^t V,ur o'ek>cl with ^^^^^^^^yf^Tl
atviKiona Ikdls riuij;, explosions are heard, etc. cie. .v
cei'JirMr. F. lent m^ solue verses in whieh he compares
"" Metlrihe street three little boarding-school girls in a
buggy, who sent me kisses.
Manchestek, July 17.
Manufacturing town, 'n which 'there is nothing remark-
able Only sixtlni tickets sold, which forces me to give
UP ho coneert, more particularly as Madame htrakoseh
has 1st telegraphed me that she dare not leave her chil-
?en t XewVork while the riots contuuie. To-morrow I
i^Bti^^ve a concert at Tortsmouth, but^the tclcgrai-h has
uS tilismitted the news of a not Decidedly I shall
return by way of Boston to Jsew \ork.
MY COyCEliT TROUPE.
001
mmJL
July 14.
•orv foii*''.
rt) a
IV iiixci'ri wove
iltU'iium tame
11 the niuiu" of
I given tlu'in.
ii(t of the fort,
inunon, July 15.
■.intiiiiis. The
hotel if called
nuneneing the
all ilay, oiteued
■ets were a foot
id a respeetablo
Nashua, July 16.
Miglaiid, hidden
itri gardens and
)f i'ort Hudson
)f joyful dcmon-
rd, etc. cte. A
eh he coniitares
chool girla in a
rcHESTER, July 17.
lothing reniark-
rces me to give
dame Strakoseh
•t leave her ehil-
2. To-morrow I
he telegraph has
eeidedly I shall
CIIArTER XI.
Proptnlipr, ISGH.
"SVe are in town. Afy company consists of Matlenioiselle
Cordier, prima donna; Brignoli, tenor; Carlo J*atti, vio-
linist; JJehrens, accompanist; and myself. Also Max
Strakosch, agent and iminrssario ; Ashforth, tuner, to
whom is entrusted the duty of overlooking the packing
and unpacking of mv pianos. Afarii', lady's maid to Made-
moiselle Cordier ; l'!mile, J5rignoli"s valet ; and Firmin, my
eontidential servant, valet, major-domo, secretary, and facto-
tum, who has been for many years my ' Alter ego,' and
who tyrannizes over me with that good-natured familiarity
which all servants tlank they have a right to exereise over
those whom they have for many years willingly taken
eare of for their master.
Such is the list of names of our 'Concert Troupe.' I
now come to the memhei-s of it. Mademoiselle Cordier
is not pretty, but she is French, that is to say, has all the
piquant graces which ai»pcar to belong to her country-
women. She has a flexible voice, whieh she uses with
much art. She was educated at the Conservatoire de Pai-is,
where she took the fii"st pi'ize. An excellent nmsiciau
{mra avis), she can read what she sings, and docs nf>t pos-
sess the gift accorded to almost all Italian singers, of not
learning until after having been taught, like a canary bird
on the l)ird organ, for many yeare. Her maid is a young,
thin, sentimental German, who paints flowers, is always
asleej), is very ugly, and professes an absolute aversion for
the duties of the toilet.
Brignoli is, as you already know, one of the most seduc-
tive tenoi's that can be imagined. His voice, which reminds
me of Mario's, lias a .narvellous purity. His servant Emilo
is an old sailo" who reads Kenan's ' Life of Jesus,' and is
enraptured with the beauties of hia style. Behrena is a
19*
o.oo NOTES OF A PIASIST.
y„„ncr Ooman from ^Tan.l.urff,^vho wears ^F^Ja^'l^;' j^; '^_
Ivi'Wxn^r !in<l after (Inner, liow he iiiaydisoit a \u>i»i to
m a \ . o it. His seecnul, is l,eing a iervent, chseq. e
r^r lllJ-8avarin. IU.hrens, in ove,y ?;^^: l'''^; ^;:^
nu'-im to have delica. i' s prepared lor himself. W e lunt
Xh n st,perintenae,»t of provisions, and l'-;>^;^''- ^^f
tl Wttin.'- up of our meals when we arrive at, a ho el.
A li>vtl 7i tall i.hlocrmatic Ameriean, locks alter the
^:;l;l;::with tl;! ir we that an EngUsli eouehman looks
!.ff,.r l.is horses. lie is the best tuner i know.
S mko Zm^^ agent, impressario, aiid friend, a fine fe-
lon is active as he alone can be. Devivo seeond agent, is
VoloHan Ins an excellent heart, and loves me very
n.m-h tK;X W, a young Englishmai, third .igeijt
V 1 I very large nose' a good fellow, a worker, poor but
IrlloJ nn(l on tlic road to become a first-class agent.
^Tc\re a Wos ing to hotel proprietors, whose purses wc
fill \ndibi whom we are also an' excellent advertisc.n.ent,
S irne^papei^ never fail to mention the hotel where we
put up.
December 28.
A TEMPEST OF SN'OW.
After
Rod.
tcr having given two concerts at Chicago I left for
Kn..^ford (file' hours of railroad from Chicago) where I
in to Ave I concert by myself this evening. I ha« sent
S rcst^ofny company to^Radne (four hours of railway
f nm Chk^aS to giv/also a concert without me; my
naTe b g^sufen'^ly powerful at Roekford to cniable me
?o get a^i .4dience witliout the aid of my companKm. T taU
advantage of it. On their part they cannot tail to d a^
? crowd, and thanks to this strategic mananivie I ^hall
obtain a double financial result without hicreasing my ex-
pe^e or osing time. To-morrow I must \eave Roc-kto d
ami thev Racine, in order for us tojom eacji other at Mil-
Sauk;?(Wisconsin), where a concert is to T^ ?-- - ^-
evening by our whole company. The cold i. exccsbnc.
1
AMKlilCAS WOMEN.
223
^pcotac'los, irt a
iiirt two woak-
toll you, is to
nott'-book ami
iajfo, uiorniiijr,
ort a won! to
LTVciit disfiiilo
V. i>la('c, finds
[•If. We have
1 lie overlooks
ve at a hotel.
)oka after the
oaehmau looks
)\V.
lend, a fine fel-
seeond agent, is
loves nie vi-ry
an, third agent,
orker, ytoor hut
ass agent,
vhose j)urses we
t advertisi'nii'iit,
! hotel where we
December 28.
lioago, I left for
liioago), where I
line." I had sent
lioui-8 of railway
•ithotit mc; my
brd to etiahle mc
»mpanions,T take
not fail to draw
iiananiviel shall
Ticreasing my ex-
t leave Roekford,
aeh other at Mil-
he eiven in the
L'old "is excessive.
At Roekford tlio snow, which has Itcon falling nninter-
ruptedly for two days, is one foot and a half deep in the
streets. The sky at this moment is cloar and the air pure.
Tlie thermometer which, until now, was ahotit ciirhtirn <U^
grecs below /.ero, begins to go down. Jiockford (Illinois) is
a very pretty town of one thonsaiid souls, tlonrisldng as do
all the Western towns. It possesses three scminari»'s for
young ladies, which 1 th'.nk otjght to furnisli this cvenini;
for the concert a contingent of five hundred jiersons.
"^'olmg ladies' seminaries in all the small interior towns of
the West are the soul of a certain class 'oncerts. The
desire for cultivating the nund and jie ,iig the taste is
an imi)erativc necessity among Anieri. ,,ii women which I
liave never found in so high a (leicree in any other race.
The liberty which they enjoy in t^ie United States, anil
which would frighten European mothers, far from injuring
the development of those ex([uisite cpialities which cliarac-
teri/e their sex, adds, on the contrary, to the allurements of
beauty, and vests a finul of confidence in their own strength
and a maturity of intelligence which guard them morein-
fallibly than the anxious and suspicious solicitude with
which a European education surrounds them. Hero tluy
are the sole guardians of their iimocence and safety; and
while lam far from thinking that they do not slip at times
from the abuse of it (perfection is not of this world), I
do not hesitate to give the i»reference to our system. Our
young ladies are responsible to their et)nscienee and enter
into marriage fortified by a practical sense which, in taking
from them a little of that unhealthy and sickly sentimen-
tality of young European girls, prepares, them for the
realities of life. The young European girl — ignorant of
everything, and not made accountable by'^the long childish
tutela<j;e which has been imiwscd upon her — slips, stum-
bles, tails, without knowing it; if she escapes the perilous
passages, she otters to Iter husband a frivolous compan-
ion, a 'Bora,' that is to say, a pretty plaything, but cer-
taiidy incapable of assisting and sustaining liim in his
troubles.
The snow has ceased falling. I sink into it k pee-deep.
The pianist of the town, a professor, has just ottered nie
his services, and proposes a sleigh-ride. I confess that the
224
SOTES OF A riASIST.
^' r. '^ in U.olf IB very plon>»nnt, nml T HhouMbo very
Blt'iph-ndo in poit ib ^^2, . ...-^ i,i i„, used m pmiii-
fon.l of tins km. v* •';;;',, .,',,,, vn,ri':v sU-igh-
i.KT, but Nv inter I'iinu' '^ ''""""",/' M, u lor the .•rm«l
r;r::l'a;!aH;;ti!Cerineju.t..ugiii.atto
cnal.U. me t.. ieel my ^"«^;;,";;-;';, .... The ^now romin.lB
'^'^'i^ rS/'T:i:i::^;i^ V t !he;h>ir ,artiele. c>t;.now
-i;;:l;!;-!^nt:Vh:uAn--i.itiiot;e^
Nature herneltMio m he V ^ '';.:;,;;,; .i,,,! l.nn.ehe.,
trees uttWt me to^va^l^c•ven. l,an t u i na ^^^^^^
cuttii.tc the distant li<.n/.on, ^i^^r, J'' "^^^ , i ,,lsV ^Vhero
are ^ho tlowers? J^ hue is tho ^^^^^ ^.^^ inspiratum.
gives me i>ain, but it ^%\ '"-,,,!.„ t^^ foundati..n, as the
Vhen at night the ^'"'^^.[^""TTof 'un^^^ birds whi.h
l,ail strikes the --><^"r^« ^J^^^^^all;;!. f^omc iind
want to get m-then is tho \^^"[/';^" J ^^ ^.^.^,„ ^f an in-
then fantastic l'«ll"*'M"f ^''^^ J \^,„ d', . of the soul of
detinite and seeivt grief, on " Z;**^ f JJ; .'^ •,„ the midst
all men. '^^VO^^y^^^^^^^'^l^^^A reading
of grief, under »';.;"' J["^^^^^^^^^ ,,ood wine, their radiant
good professor wonld be ««P'» ^f ; f '^^ViT^^^^^^^^
fli. vihiele is worthy ot "Otiee t ^^;y4^'^!i';^.,\,t- which
.(luare box plaeed on a buggy ^ ^ >^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^s primiHve,
two iron runners liavc been ^"»^*^^^^^^^^^^^^ oi.rselves as
orioinal, but -"'^i^f^^^^^t mrehi e aS^-^ out. The wind
well as we can m ^^'f /^^tle maUiine^ ^^^^^^ .^ ^^^^^^^
increases and ^^'^ ^» ;^1 ^^^'f^/ > ./'^^^ horse, animated by
^^^■^•'•"'"rtlltells lio/raUi r'thaii runs. We devour
the noise ot tlie bells nies la ^ luirricane,
space, we have passed thiough the ^^^ ^ ^^^^^^^ At
and enter upon a S^^^^^^i^ify^^J,' S^ eo.ltents flies
every turn of the road our 1 tie ^^^J^^^^ ^.^eie in the
liodM b*^ very
J iisi'd in pum-
ii.,/('l""i' sU'ijrli-
lor the i-rnrl
•liich r\it.* my
■iioiigh lii-'iit to
. snow roiuiiuls
irticlort of wiunv
Ihu'rt not ovt'U
? Tlio lc!iiU'><>^
iiikod l)raii<-ln.'rt,
Hki'U'toii!*, that
winter, I'or it
for inspiration,
nntlation, as tlio
ri'al birds whiih
tion. Sonic iiml
lo echo of an in-
lis of tho son! of
L-ry, in the midst
irritated readini;
ine, their radiant
[esB luuslc iri eou-
rh-ride. But the
^saeritice myself.
;inal, it is a small
wheels of which
It is primi'^ivo,
odatc ourselves as
,etout. The Av hid
iiur's nose ia blue,
arse, animated by
luw. Wo devour
like a luirricanc,
icndous pace. At
h its eontenta flies
of a cirele in the
!k in as well as we
T/fi: r,77,-.i/.iA' rnnFi:s.<iOR. 005
fan. An r.ld l)li,i.| ,„ule has Hf..|.|K.d ]„ )!„. middle of the
road. Uiir ^|Kvd is ho mpid that w.. ,,mM..t turn in time,
nn(l we strike a^o.nist llu' pcor Least, wl,,, sends a hair of
heels ,,t us without strikin,!; ns. Half of ,„„• hox ,'.,nnins
behnid, hut there is still enou.rli to hold on (o. The horse
no lonp.r oheys the reins. I he.rln to understand tiuit our
party., pleasure will end hy hein- thrown into u dit.h.
I he end ot our ride is a seminary lor younu n'wK of which
1 iHMrm to see the roof and trees at the end of the n.ad
We arrive at the seminary. An old and dried-up lady
receives ns I am introduced to her; she is the dire.-tress
ol the estahlis iment. .Mi.s« S. and So, Mr. ({otts,halk.
\\ e pass into the parlour. A pMitleman with dishevelled
hair is walkm^ir up and (h>wn, declaiming 'a lectuiv,' whi.-h
he has to Kive this afternoon to theyounu- i-lrk rncoml.ed
Jiead (I speak ot his exterior), '-ard unshaved; type, nenus
unknown- tjold spectacles. He is u (Jerman professor of
literature ot l<reiuh, and l.hilosophy— was it necessarv to
tell you that Jie wore fr,,l,i spectacles v I),, ,n,t all tlie (ier-
iiiaiis, musicians and savants, wear lliem?
It is a ].oint of transcendental i)hvsio]oiry which I leave
to the investiirations of the learned, to wit: whether the
(lermans who are to heconu- musieians are horn with little
golden specta.-les,just as othei-s are born witlui wart on
tlie nose, or whether this j.arasite is developed and ..rowH
111 proportion as they i»hm<;e into the depths of the science
ot h.irmony. (> apiin, whether this aj.pendas^e is an hon-
ourable badge and symhol which is awarde<l to those who
have penetrated all the secrets lilddeii from vulvar eves
Jiiial ly,are the ooldeii spectacles of the musical (Jeriiians
like the cane of the Spanish Alcalde or the switch of the
JMighsh soldier 111 Avalking, that without which neither the
one nor the other of these immutable and hi variable tynes
eonsKler themselves oom].lete?
I visit the seminary. The pupils are engaged at their
studies; hut 111 the j.assages,on the staircase, in the (h)nni-
tory we iiieet young girls wlio, under their little air of
tright or indifterence, badly conceal heir unruly curiosity.
Jt IS ].]am that they know who I am, and I foresee that I
shall haveto play for these very pretty rude little things
before leaving. A piano groans in an adjoining room! it
f^
SOTKS OF '. riASI^T.
xrM • ITuvcr' Uow far wUl this v\r,:nml
\« tl... 'M'^'•^^''•^,'''{v•^.t .train int.. our h.,uu.v H U
,..,:, ana uttor anotlu-. a ' '^^^^,, ^^.,,^,,,^. ,,,, .vaitcrs
„,n.n, ((i...l ho V7»r^'\ ' ' , , . that th- norvant. a.v < t
^Vo arc a<rain r'>'T"'"?,,^^\i|XnSrs m!y ril'm' h^tve
.now, an,l ^-'IV'^riay We oh^nu-toa tl^ nnul. or.
ariftoa, ana ^^■^\\ ^^^>^r^,, „„t. IhirvaM .. th
we arc stoi>l»oa.
t- ho vUuo whore t^'?^r""\\\\^ ., ,,1 ahltant.. It wouhl
o aaivrcr..ur^ t(^ ^.roceoa ^'^^V'\., \,\,ventv-tive(logrooH he-
l,)\v zero.
,otor has pme .h.w > - -^^ y, ^^,, ,,,..^,est
^Vo might »'^^\-' >^;! , ^^ ve u>u1a have heeu
tA iiml loadings lor ^^:^^'oyov in the afternoon, at
The te,»l--t ^vi I ajna tl-^ V ^, , ,^. a tavern ih al.M^
loMst the conauctor leadrt us u> i ,, ,,i,o,,netor. iho
'>'? li'tn' VS, W„:l of .,on., a,Kl, above all, .hat
Ui loV .li"-;, v-m t^>,,,^;,X;S „,,l, a -ton. n,a„ ,d,o»
irn fiWml» cull ■'"''S'^-"'' 'J ' ith very comfortal.ly fm--
„-*onaaot9 mo to "'V ™ ,'"„" ^ "* ™«'''='' '"•'.''
S»l and ^™Sr''•„A aHllm with oarto. <le v.s.lo
k^iSi' auSXgX^^ a..a r.„a, u.i.o,»,i«
Till: IIMiVMU) IWTKL.
227
this viririim^
\X KHUlU'*'
iiltlu
If, 1 tintliiiVM'U
HtTviint^ an- <>t
tlir iiior^t I'lirt,
uiirsr^i'H in dirt-
,m'ntU'«l diu'nity
■o of roii^t l»i'i't»
uul lUl lao with
peci'iulit'f 31.
It fOlltilUU'rt to
Hiiy it will liiivo
tlio road. ll*'>'^'
vuM irt the iiaiiic
ive nuirtt tret out.
itantrt. Itwouhl
Htorin eontimu's.
:y-tive degrees he-
.,1 by the tempeHt
aiouUl have becji
whole train in the
■il a great danger
irtt now endeavour
wc remain here.
1 the afternoon, at
A tavern is along-
•, proprietor.' The
llotel hart nothuig
lul, above all, what
ptont man, whom
had Hueh luck be-
,ry comfortably fur-
able covered with
,th cartes de yisite
8 in the prairies ot
sfromXew lork..
French lithographs
(Moses defending I know not wliat woman, after a pieturo
l>y S( li(t|iiii), the inonninents of I'mis, ami a Inrire vohune
of maps oil iheCiinieaii Wnr, wrilleii hy tlie coiiiiiiissiniieirt
sent out ill 1S,"),"» l»y his Kxeelleliey -lefferMUi I >avis, tht'tl
Secretary of War of tin- I'liiti'd States, wliit li eoimnissioii
Was eon I posed of Colonel Delatield and ('aiilaiii MeClelluii
of the Kiigiiieers. These iianii's thus assoeiatid liave a siii-
trnlar effe<t I What a contrast, iind what evi'iits sinet' the
illustrious traitor oeeiihied himself with s(» niiieh solirj.
tilde to perieet the miiit'iry seieiiee of the Fi'deral Army
ollieers, and chose for this purpose little Captain MeClellan.
I should have remained a long tinu; meditating on the
iiistahility of human afliiirs and on the mysteries whirh
the future coiui-als, if the gi ng for dinner had not Just
called me t<t the reality of things which is nnieh more
pleasant than revery, seeing that I am very hungry and
that the dinner whati'ver it may he will he very welcome.
I do not HUpposo that tiie Harvard Jlotel dinner will be a
IJelshazzar's feast. 7\g in a rash Judgment and an agrei'-
alile surprisi'. After hit \iiig disagri'e.thly speculated iipoii
w-|iat might l)e tlie ordinary of tliis poor little tavern at a
village of the extreme West, and found a resi>;m'd consola-
tion in niy liunger, I went down into the dining-room and
found it very clean. Tiie thick linen tahle-cloths are white,
the dishes and jilates large, but senqtulously clean, the
servants pretty, courteous, and not at all princesses. The
hill of fare for dinner would make the months water of the
];seudo-hiinter8 of the jilain of St. Denis, who are ecu-
denine<l not to taste venison but under the e(|uivocal and
apocryphal form of steaks called roe-buck, wliich the in-
dustry of tlie Parisian restaurateur has enabled him to
make out of lamb kept preserved in vinegar until it gets
the taste of venison. Here they served up to ns a quarter
of true roe-buck marvellously roasted with its Juice; some
broiled venison, wild ducks, and jirairie-chickens; a large
])uddlng and a glass of excellent ale ended this festival of
Helshazzar. _ Deeidedlv I sulunit to my iiite. I get again
into the train. One liour, two hours glide by, and we do
not start. There are two stoves in the car, yet nevertheless
the cold iiicreasi's nntil Strakosch's eai-s are nearly frozen.
The wind inereasi'S, the snow falls in avalanches, we must
",'mivu f .'bswbw^p'^ ''"
„.^g NOTKS OF A riASI^T.
, . , , , iT.,rvira Unfortunately, conntinjl <m
m.s the night ^^^ [ \^ X; din.c.-^ .onscquontly have
leaving, I vaj'l "^> .^f, ,,\,o, e room whuh 1 have oeeu-
reuouneed a /"V "?ht. u k u jc .^^.^^^^.^ ,^ 1 l.e
pio«l i.art ol the ihiy— it » -i'' ,,i tl,ei,i^sen"-errtot tlietrani,
iotcAehig i-"«^-^-\ " ^' 1^ \v^, a^S children Not
a place ^vas first Vil^^'^^^f J' :.?eVof ^ categories, T hiive
heing able to g<^^"^ ^"!^^^!,^' '''\he ight on the tlo.n-, at
the sad rorsi.c<-tn'e "^ V^^^^^S^.^^^^e "l.clow zero. There
a tenn-crature ot twenty -bx '^^^^^^^ ^ .^._ 'y^,^ society is
are fifty or sixty ot ns in ^>«J:f^,^^j;p jt is comiK.sed of
not, asVou ^vill '"f'" "IJll^^^^.^ nc ;s from thJ Indian
.iek and disbanded ^^^'J^''^^'^"' Ti ^f ,a raagcd emigrants.
iVontiers, peddlers, ot l;^^-^^^;,:^'Sso n^ .vateh-chain.
1 fastened my money m m> ^?^^^'^'\{^^^, dress appeare<l to
Two or three 1'"'^ ''*;; i ;, ^^ r'u-hed me and acpuunt.
belong to the ^vell-to-do^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^.;, , lony
nnoeswere instinctive!} main-. ^'. ,.,.i elans, whu-h,
^^^l^ided into distinct g^^^^^* ^^ u ^ ^vertheless
Without being hostile to ea^i ol^e^ bc^ ^^^^^^ ^^
that if oeeasion require thc> Y", of their neighbours. I
t emselves against the ^?P^^^ ]^^ fhe tempest
l,e.in to think of ^^^^"^^^d a .torm at sea
roars outside. If you {^ " ^^-^ upturning of nature,
you cannot form ^^^ , V^;';,;;/ 'vel ers .vho shall have
\U thoughts turn to the -or tia ^^ .^, ^^
been surprised on the pi'"!'^.; -f foundations. Ihc
ISi thire. The l-^-Z^i^^^^^u tioTanything more
Avind whistles ^»"^^"tabl> . J^o ^ing chromatic
niournful than those as^cnnrng ami ^^^^^ ^^^.^^^ .
scales which you l^^'.r ^Micn ^' j ^c I am -n board.
the cordage ot ^ ^'^? '';1- " ^d vvith their hands frozen;
Two firemen have .p st *^"tcreci wi circulation.
Avith great trouble wc succeed ^^ rest"^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^^,^ ^^
It is the first time ;-nat I see ^^ "J^^^^* ^^^, ^^orth Pole,
often read of in the history .«V.^>Xin ^^•hcre our trunks
Uiave had.to give "P;^^^^;^ ^ ^ac s oft^ Going back at
are. which is only ^^^^j^^Jr^^^^^^^^^ buow which striKCS
Pr o,"'r l^S J-L .m .Ciovo each o.l.o.
■^
rUE POSTMASTER.
, conntir.g on
(LHinontly liave
h 1 liave (K'ou-
ly ttikon. Tlio
ers of tlio train,
cliildron. Not
togoric's, T h'.ive
ni tlic tloor, iit
,v zero. Thorc
Tho sock'ty irt
, 18 couiliosod of
•oni the Indian
.o;od omigrants.
ify Avatrh-fliain.
■OSS ai'l»c«i'^'*\ t<'
ae and at-qnaint-
icnt thif^ * l«^'»y
tie flans, whifb,
ki 11 novertlieless
r Low to defend
r neiglilijowi''*- I
it. Tlio tempest
[ a storm at sea
rning of nature.
i who shall have
■ill find a eertain
bundatlons. The
,w anything more
niding ehromatie
whistles through
nc I am .-n l»oard.
loir hands frozen;
[12 the circulation.
■If what I have so
the Korth To o.
1 whf've our trunks
ft". Going hack at
,now which strikes
turn m about tive
,hout to establish
relieve each other
every half hour, to kcc]i up the fire, under ]ienalty of pee-
ing the water freeze in the hoilcr, and then a<lieu t() leaving
to-iMorrow. Tlie country, wliidi I see in the twiliiiht
through the windows obscured by the ice, is friirlitfullv
sad. An illimitable meadow, which in sunnuer is doubtli-ss
an ocean of verdure, but which now ]trescnts to tlu! eve
only a flescrt of snow which is lost in the distant horiz<Mi.
The hardened snow, masses of which fall Avith a dull rum-
bling noise IVom the roof of the house, and the roariui;- of
the tempest, drive one to desjiair with sadness. 1 write
my journal to comI)at sad thoughts which besii-gc me.
I'oor Strakosch, after two hours of suiierliuiuau effort,
has come back from the lelegraph station, from whence he
sent a despatch to Milwaukee, explaining oin- position; I
doubt if it arrives at its destination. JJefori! an hour tho
wind and snow will have torn down and bm-ied under ten
feet of snow all the telegraph wires. The thernu>meter is
still going down. The cold is insupiiortable, notwitl^stand-
ing our immense stove is getting red-hot and its Jaws flam-
ing with trunks of trees." A cattle train is stojipcd some
distance from the tavern. AVe hear the bellowing of the
poor beasts in the midst of the snow. They will prol)ably
jierish by the cold to-night.
;Max, by virtue of begging, has obtained a bed at tho
postmaster's, whose house is separated from ours oidy by
a small garden. It is seven o'clock in the evening. We have
just sumied oji venison and a cu]) of tea. I wished to go
to my lodgings, but the tempest is so violent that I have
not been able to make the twentA'-fivo paces that separate
t]»e house from the post-oflice. The darkness is prt)f()und.
Assisted by Firmin and Strakosch I again venture to go
out, sui)]»orting the one the other; thrown down at every
stej) by the wind, covert^l with snow, and almost ijaralyzed
with cold, we reach the house of the postmaster. 'The
postmaster, a tall, thin, phlegmatic American with a
beard turning gray, bi.'s us welcome. The teakettle sings
on the lighted stove. A half-open closet reveals the plates
and preserves of the family. A large Bible on a while
woollen table, a pretty white cat who puri-s on her mis-
tress's lap, a little girl of ten years, a daughter nf the
postmaster, knitting stockings alongside < ' "her mother.
20 OS,
230
NOTES OF A riASlST.
,,,,.. all ^---:,, : 7 .ttt"-ant. It ccn.^ts and
dcH-s not «;'j;^*^'\, :^{;;\"rtlK.AnK"n<-anlanno.-8. The
c<„ni..vlK",M the *• \' ,il ts w hieh chameton/.e them are
orae-rly au.l [-j- ^^ ^^, f ;^:; lurbnlence and brutah.mp,
too iiicomi«atil>le ^Mtll tul .^i ,.,,..Uc vou to tind an
io-n„ranee of Em-opean V^^^^^"" ' f AinirWn farmers,
c^inivulent to the la .oinx>us ''^^ ,^;^.^;[.rf/i ' a,' ,neans of
Ale talk polities with \\'«.r; "^^^^^^^^^^
every dass m.derstand m unr "^ ^^^, !^ •'|,„,,,i, everv
to-morrow moruuig. ^^^^^^^^ ^_ ^^^^
SNOW STORM (THE SEQUEL).
Although I had passc^ ^^S^^^ll.S^l^d^ ^l^l? ^ll^
^nth a ^v<>ollon e(,mt..rter a u Ivo^'^^'^^^^ ^^,.^^^^.„ ,
on my head, a,u though I -^^-^^'f ^^^d on awaking
under my mountam ot ^^'\- '' ^ \ , ^. .,,,^, The thennome-
,ay mou.taehes |-overed tl ha ,n ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^
ter thirty-two degi^je ^±1^^^^^^ ^o put them under
likewise our hats and ^^\^;*;^i '^'J- ...^ ..Lures us that it
the stove to thaw them. An ^^^^ ^^ \;l '^^ ,„^ the Indian
^ill he avery r^Z^^\^k.. high, he tells
frontier have huilt then «;*' "'^ , • ^o gain the
us, and all the trou have ^^;^J^^ ,,.^^J intalli-
(loep water ot the la.a;^. 1 ^ "^ ^'.^tlan-. We had with
l,ly\umounee -^--;^;-U^,rf am anxious to learn
us in our ear a siek Jo uig f*' "/''V ...,„,, j^y^elf carefully
how he got through the lu^l t I J^'/' >^,i, ^lie ear to
,, in furs ^^^^^^ \X^ this poor num.
learn it we eould do '"^^"111^^^.^^^^^^^^^
He is verv feeble and young. "^' ^, ', ; " '"^^e care of him
I seek in-the village for some one nn u ^'"(. { '^^^^'^^^^^ ,,,in
i,nn,ei;.eur^ Poor^ yo;;;;g -- • ^^ ^l^^^re liable
5::.r;nn1hisU,ri?of tllars Lx eeiits. I have ^und a
THE FROZEN HOUSE.
281
were ueo<l f<^r
docenoy, and
It conitorts and
uiidt'i-stand (M*
1 fiirnu'i's. The
'torizc them are
and brutali/.hig
you to tind an
lerican farmers.
I Americans of
ails the politit-d
increases every
lisiht. The cold
creak as if thev
o to shiver until
January 1, 1864.
ill my clothes on,
••k, and a fur cap
ly lain drawn up
Luid on awaking
The thermome-
shoes are frozen,
o put them under
• assures us that it
rats on the Indian
iries high, he tells
rivers to gain the
gns wliich hifalli-
iw We had with
II anxious to learn
p myself carefully
; I seek the car to
fort this poor man.
irning to his tiunily.
ii\ take care of him
Will he ever agam
od there are nohle
ts. I have found a
young farmer, who undertakes to take care of liini gratui-
tously. The cattle liave bravely supported this terrible
night. Only one horse is extended on tlic ground to all
ajipearance frozen! They nib him, he is gettiny- uj) asrain,
lie will probably recover. Tlie engineers and ti'rcmen have
suffered most. Tliey had to reniain on the enijini's all
night to keep up the lire, or the water in the boik-rs would
certainly liave been frozen. >i'o ])rol)ability of being able
to start to-day. Milwaukee is iniiK)ssil)le. I cannot even
return to Thicago, althougli the wind blows in that direc-
tion, and consequently would help us in getting alons;
before us the snow is piled up into immense drifts which
render the Journey impossible. AVe breakfast. Before the
<lining-room stove an enormous deer is stretched out, killed
last night at our request; it will be for our dinner. It has
the handsomest head that I have seen. We have also quails.
They cost liere sixty cents per dozen, and are almost as
large as pigeons. Ihe ladies, I am told, passed the night
in dancing. Some one found a fiddler in the village. For-
tunately there is no piaiio ; but for that I should have liad
to play.
CHAPTER XII.
Adrian, Michigan, January 8, 1864.
iNFAMors ooncci-t. Seventy-eight dollars ! ! The peoj.le
pay that they prefer "a good negro sliow." They are
furious at the price for adniission — one dollar.
A singular American characteristic! They insult us as
if we forced them to pay.
In the cars a tjcvUemav and a lady are talking: "These
people are those who exhibite<l last evening." " Xo, they
belong to the panorama, wliich, in parentriesis, must be a
very handsome attiiir judging from the price of admission —
one dollar" (this is spoken wirh a dissatisfied air).
One<lollar admission! it is the universal theme. Everj--
body talks about it, and, singularly, it is with animosity, as
I ^
232 NOTES OF A riANIST.
if the fact of rutting on the bill, one .lullar was Huffic-iont
lo lake the pjico ot" admUsiun out ot thou- pocket, it is
monstrous '.
February 22.
tin- theatre ot the niarisaererf coiuiuiucu uj
fomuk>r and lather of our groat republic.
Bridoepobt, February 23.
A iM-ettv little town, two hours of railway tVom Xew
Yo^llhe birthplace of' Toni Thumb' and ot ' Banauu.
February 24.
, -kT -vr^^v rrnwflofl It is the ninety-tit'th
voyage to the Antilles.
Habtford, February 25.
A hnndsotne town in Connecticut, four and a half hours
from New Sr Whilst I was in a music store I heard
"^"j^fZHf "'^^^^^ to Gottsehalk's concert ?"
i;:^t;^-^^i^ di and a place on the front
"'"fLi Z«<v.-"It is too near, the sound is not so pure as
at a distance."
■ •*qW? .lfl-|ir iMi>« '? * "^
,va3 Ruffic'iont
[)ocket. it iri
Fi'bruary 22.
irtluvo weeks,
Washintrtoii's
ig visited the
o the oxtivine
)ries. I t'oiint
,-ill i>usli on as
iite, which was
10 liidiaus two
.'Oiling. After
,' which c-hIUhI
tVoni the eir-
ashington, the
RT, FeV)ruary 23.
rt-ay from New
of ' Barnuin.'
February 24.
the !iinety-tifth
I in the city of
withont count-
gave before my
jRD, February 25.
uul a half hours
sic store I heard
alk's concert ?"
ice on the front
18 not 80 pure as
BOSTOX AXD PROVIDEXCE.
Srooml hi>h/.—^<l do i„,t ,>aro about lieariu"-. I w
see his lingers. 1 kiu)w all liis ].ieces."
First /«(///.—" Ah ! You play the piano V
ScouH<lit,l!,~^^So! bat 1 have a friend icho plam ti
233
ant to
on the (juitdr.''
(The trutli.)
phvjs them all
FAjruary 2U.
Concert at Eoston. Very fine concert. P.oston, hy a su f-
fic.entlv singular anomaly,!.: the city whicli has eontri-
hute<l he most to M.ake off the yoke of the metropolis, and
that which lias retained the most English-like appearance.
It IS par exce ence flic aristocratic city. It pretends to ho
the most mtellectual in the United States. It is not to bo
denied tliat it has niade enormous progress in the sciences
and arts. 1 he university at Cambridge is the mostcele-
ra ed m the United States. Her poets are known tlie
w orld over. She has for eight year,s possessed the lar-^es^
organ m America. (It cost sixty thousand dollars in Ger-
many.) A musical amateur (Mr. Perkins) has presented to
fl.e city a statue of JJeethoven which cosfAwelle thousand
dollars. It IS a beautiful work of art. Boston has ^ix
till ty-ti ve hundred persons. It is in the latter one of these
the ' Fremont,' that I gave my concerts. It is in nV
cJrt'T.|n -^'.t'^ for hearing and the most magnificent coi^
cert liall in the world.
Providence, February 27.
Two hours from Boston. An aristocratic city, and one
of the oldest in the United States. It was founded by one
of the i uritan pilgrims who emigrated under the (\atholic
•ivmg James II., and still preserves the rigidity of its fbim-
?.^?' I J'P^'c, a large audience. It is the first concert
without ram that I have given in Providence
Xear to Providence (at Newport) is the United States
^r. Jf ,\T^^'' ^T^''\ '^^^^"" ^^ ^''"^at importance.
Union ^^ *^^ smallest State of the
20*
234
NOTES OF A PIASIST.
i\
Sunany, February 28.
emu,'.:. Markocl F^f^^^^I^^'J ". „' 1,„ ,Uhon. Two
ieen succcsstul. ovorflowins— all my pieocs have
Thi. ^vening-lmll o^crflo^vmg^ ^.^^^^ J^ ilasou's new
^J^XS:^ aS:;^^ IJ^tty. no manuiuctures cue huu-
drcd weekly.
February 29.
Kecoived an invitation iVoxn th. ^^^J^^
Blin<l,ana Deaf and Dumb. .^ f^} ^d tl em to come
taken'a great ^^ftcf on for mo su^e I m^^^^^^^^^ .^^^^^^
to all my concerts. They ^^; ^ ^, "^;'^^S ^ ^ijeni, baBlcets
sent me two days ago ^^^^ej^r^^^^^ "^f,vrit\cn by a young
really touched by this gitt.
•' March 1.
I „art in two ho,™ ^'^'^^^ ^-JhT.nrJS
Boston. A concert there tin. «"" ^.^ii,"^,^ "The .tnge
i„g, a..a it fe Tf ^"foonaxe^f otinT o Uich, .luring
7':uSt^™KerVo;k^;it;^ra;.H-e^t eight
o'clock in the morning.
The
been
•DM
YALK t . .LEGJm
2:55
(ly, Ffliruary 28.
I (lay of mortal
One can now
L! driven. Two
ilv liftoon yoavri
arctl like nion-
ston.
iinist, and gracc-
rs at Boston—
»rolK'stra at the
leras which have
my pieces have
on Mason's new
factures one hun-
I'ebruary 29.
rtitution for the
,r creatures liave
ted them to come
lissed one. They
hy them, baslcets
rittcn l»y a young
Bridgcman. The
JU.
l have been
March 1.
; three hours from
The snow is fall-
idience. The stage
r to which, during
[>ed and slid as far
fingering the air 1
rough a cul-de-sac,
ler "staircase which
lid arrive at a little
[ire sewing. Leave
,vc arrive at eight
Miirdi 2.
Last evening, Afiss Harris, a young American jirinia
dduna, made her delnit in 'Lucia. Success : voice u little
weak, hut much intclligenct' and great facility. This e\cn-
iiig, concert at Nihlo's. J play the <iuatuor'of JJeethnvcii
in K Hat. Tlie aiidaiito (which recalls, in the first bars,
' Hatti' of J)on .luau) is one of the sweetest, most tender, and
brightest inspirations of the giant of Loim.
March 3.
Left for Xew Haven. A charming city, where the cele-
brated university, ' Yale College,' is situated. The students
number six hundred. They confer degrees as hii^h as Dr.
of Sciences. Large audience at the cfnicert. Decidedly,
the i'uritaiiism of Xew Kngland is rapidily disapiieariii"
and vanishing away. The majority of niy audience is
composed this eveuhig of Episeo])afians, and nevertheless
we are in Lent ! ! !
Ml 'ch 4.
Loft tliis morning for Stamford, where I jilay this even-
ing. Arrived sit lialf ]»ast eleven o'clock A. M. It is a
]ii'etty town. There are two large colleges lor young yirls,
who, without mistake, will be a"t the concert. My "tickets
are sold at the post-office.
J3rignoli, after an absence from the stage of nearlv a
year, has made his re-ai)pearance at the Academy of Music,
now under the direction of JSraretzek. The t)pera selected
by this charming tenor was 'I Puritani.'
Jirignoli has l)een for eidit years the tenor par excellence
of Xew Yoi'k City. Of all the singei-s who have appeared
for twenty-five years on our first lyric stage, he is the oiilv
one who has succeeded in. triumphing over the insatiable
avidity of our ]teople for novelty and change. Mirate,
Alario, were greatly applauded when they came, but hardly
had they lett when they were forgotten, and they have
turned again to Brignoli with more "enthusiasm than ever.
One of the most charming of the lady admirers of Brignoli
exclaimed, on hearing Mario one evening, that the latter
had lieen less adroit than ordinary in concealing by his art
and talents the changes which time had made on him !
n
yO^-KS OF A PIASIST.
(lunnji whuh ^'"f **'"'V„ ;,, .mblu- ostimatuni, an.l l.a^^
in m% l>as j;auu;. f^' '" ,, , ; tl ^ ....nuos wl.u-h I'.r.-
en-at.(l u l-^)'^'^^ j^ ^,:' ^^hmn. Maz.oUni Is a t.nur
n..U-rt HUCH-c-ss aul iai>e. a n ^^^^^^ .^na-tmu-s ..
.,U 1-orza;' hn v..uo ;^ '';''". !, ' .d m-tor, a.al, at
nml, srm.nis '«"»/\ "'^'^ / \ J.-l ,. want it tor tlu-ir iiumey,
.leasl-s the hulk ot-tlK-imblc^^^^^^^^^^^ ,,^^^,^ f,, a.c
hoara-of Huc.e.., .lue in u o the 1 u^ ^^^^^ j.^^j,,,, ,,1
of ^hlzz<>lini. >I"^t' ;wM 1 t H li. rai-ties ^vel•e iui-
IncHliatcly fonned .[ I^^^^^^^^.'^'u ;Ii>rtunately, Br f^noh
full from the top t;\tlu. ' t ». ^^ ^^^^.^ ^, v.tlle fatigne.1,
whose last \nv with m^J^ ^^.^^L k fore the imhlu- was
was confused, llis mitural \ ' y\\ ,^,,Vuii, who from the
i,u-reascd hy the sight ot his "^ " -jj.^;;^;," ^^^.y,^ it is that
11 thrust' at him two T^T^^nouLr^^ho .an
,uy Briguoli became V'""f > f '^ ^ ^^ J^^^ maimer in the
sing, that is to say,in *»'« "Xti n thev gave 'Sonuuim-
^.^rld. Atthese«md^i;-^en^;^^^^^^^ ^he second
hula,' and 13n-noli ';^'^/^"l^ {^^^^ [j,^ by Lotti, a young
act; they were forced .^.^^l^^'^;^, it^to/hut will Boon be-
GoAnan ten-^, who is J et J ^"^^J^^V said without contra-
ct .me a distinguished star it may ^^^^^^^^ ^^x
diction that the en/;-^; ^^^^^^^^^ to make an ovati<>.i tor
oin.<-ents^l.rohtedl^N' eoccasim ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^
Lotti. These sm.dl J^^f f ^^.J^-bmn^n passions are so
exquisites in .^^^^^'^f *" ^.^'xt to show themselves. The
halty and easily ^^^^ '\ '^f^!;^ ,t ,.e of the stag's head and
i.a;
SHORT COSCKnT.
2:17
c up fifty voy
liiii." This i!J_
J iiiiliort;iiue ot
isoiirt ultsoiu-e —
(I by Man't/.ek
nation, aixl lin'*
ios whu-h Hfisi-
'.■/A)\\\\\ is a tiMinr
(I ^(.iiK'tinu's t'f
lI actor, aii<l, at
., whu'li always
for tlu-ir luoia-y,
ty than for the
'in oik; i>liii'(ii>i>l>''
r, thov havo the
.robalAy the first
\, has had an nii-
aiul to the ai'tiiitC
iror, has fathoinotl
^rartios were hu-
he Acaaoiii^V was
unately, Bnjijnoh,
il a little fatit^ued,
ore the i»ublic was
)lini, who from the
i \ Thus it is that
viot suns:; as he can
ing manner in the
ley gave ' Sonmam-
1 after the second
hy Lotti, a young
?, but will soon he-
aid without contra-
10 were almost all
make an ovation^ tor
|,t the New \ork:
man passions are so
,w themselves, ilio
' the stag's head and
carries with him, to
nssci-Mliat liis confusion and disorder Imve boon caused bv
a baritone of liis oncinios, whom onr tonor insists on Ito-
lio\ing an rri/ ci/r, iuid whom lio soos as lie cdmos upon
the stage wicki'dly sitting in the lirsf box in the i-allorv.
Tlie concert was (h'|ilorablo tins cvoniiiir. ("omploto si-
I011CO. 1 correct myst-U'. Silence wlion 1 entered and when
1 went out, but ninmated conversation all the time 1 was
l>!!iyiiig. But happily we conducted tilings brisklv, and
dispatched over eight pieces in twenty-fivo'miniites/
It isia)t hali-past-eight,and I have alreadv uv* mv over-
coat on again. "Shoit m„j sweet," said a^'lairminir irirl
iroing out. "A great deal shorter than sweet," ^rinn-
bliiigly answered her beau. This is the only concert where
no piece has been encored. 1 pi'rci'ive<i on'the wall of the
artist's saloon the ornamental signatures of musical c 'leb-
rities who have preceded nio. "AV/,,," f<„uuthiii,] (the nsimo
was not legible), "the best dancer in wooden shoes in the
whole world." It was himself who wrote it. "Charley
such a one, a first-rate drummer, wlio can't bo beat.'' There
are anomalies in tlie credulity of Americans which proceed
less from a bad disjiosition than from candid ignorance.
For examjilo, a child or a young girl asks her tather for
something at table, and takes good eare not to add, 'if
you iiloasc ;' when she is served. It is very rare to hear her
say, 'thank you.' As for the men, it "is useless ever to
ask them to make use of these puerile formulas. They are
too innti/)/. This again aj)pears in the order of ideas which
makes them walk on thou- heels, and make as much noise
as possible, when they ha\e to cross a saloon. At all my
concerts I liave an opportunity of obser\ lug this. They
would 1)0 ashamed to walk on tip-toe, it would not be
worthy of a strong mind ; but wliat do they call ' manly"?
Is it, Avhen you tread on your neiglibour's feet, to look at
him with a menacing air, as if sj^ying to him, if you are
not satisfied I will knock you down? All this is 'niunly'l
J/'/;*/// comes from man, and, man being superior to the brute
through his intelligence and not through his force, should
this not be rather called brutality? An artist ap[)oars be-
fore the public, he salutes you ; do you not feel something
which tells you that you ought in return for his salute to give
him welcom , by the only" means which is in your power.
_-L
14
luMrlnni\vilUl'kui^ni(,iuio mm,,,,; .it'tor u I'Uh-c hurt
,l,Hs 1k' mipiK-ar ti. >1iovn that k ^^ ^^^^. ^,^_^^
1 have what I ^va.lt, 1 >'}^'h''V .,^ ;,,l<^ for it. Y"U tell
,,„ these «r. S^^vni' 'I usk panlon-wh.n vo.f ure
you V'^'^-^^; . />,'^tf, ; .h oonstunt .lisoipVuR., uro Ukejo
accusto'iu'dtotlicin im >u.,i' _ ,.„,,,. ^,,.,t\„uM\ts()tuiiK'mty
nany I'ttU" ^'unals through whu-h - ; * . ,v. A man
.,,,.1 Volit^'noss arc uccustouuxl / ^1^ 'I' . ' !,^ , ,,i t<, .x-
who troa.ls uyoa ,uy corns, ';>; !\^J .J^i^^u. to become
p,vs. to me U rep-et, ih ee.t .> ! ,\^. '^^,; ,i.. he ha.
ly iViend than my onem^^ ,^^.^\';^'^, ie.it il.litierence,
^ t^'lm"; oi' ^v^ ^nda have tewer disgusting hghts,
S^^hSn;^^lation,arunkem.ss,cte.
M(ir<;li 5.
Matinee nt Kew Yor^, J-f ^ ^^^.ll^t^ rlt^'S
opera ('Faj^t') ^<^<^V^:^^X^T.X^^y^ W^-
able opposition. ^ V V tbo <levnrturc ot' tlie tirst negro
^Vhat IB gouig oni It ^!:^^;^/^ /'^j^;j;^ ^. rail in one
..hnent for th.. war. ^/Jl'^Xiisclkv who disposes of
iumr. My tnnor goes to the "J^f^^jl^"^^/ ,,, jersey is IIk-
my tiekeis. Uc has sold nme t ekets. jN tu ^c i
epochs that 1 have given co. ce ts ^ ^^^ y ./^.^^^^^^^ i.^^^on,
plrsons. Oranjje, ^^^f ^'f '.f ^g^^ , • t , Madame Bost-
Ihe iirst timo 1 -'^''fl' f ve d Uu-s cross receipts, ex-
{
iVA" \y j/-:i{s/-: \ jxciiiMiu:.
230
(.(1 ir< it lint the
iirf dis^iost'd to
iiviiiliirttiivour
LT !i I'UH'i' lia»*
10 1 lay I'lay it
ivour)." lliu-tlly
) airiMlo t^\vt>iir
<iii<l, "N«'\vtliiit
irt tlic cliiltl ii:*l<-
ir it. Vtiu till
those tritii-s— 'if
— wluii yoii are
j.Vnie, are like so
nuMitsofamonity
wartlly. A man
iniri rouiul to ex-
liVcoly to booonic
s tlio l>aiii lie lias
)lont iiidittoroiK'C,
iro rootod in our
lisguating tights,
tc.
Mar<;li 5.
ICO, although tho
hour, a roinark-
iKluisitivo iKoi)k\
of the first iiogro
son by rail in ono
r who (lis[)Orics ot
New Jersey is th"
hole world exeepL
ly memory enables
itained at difleront
Elizabeth, eighty
:."s fault. Trenton,
ith Madame Bost-
i cross reeoipts, ex-
rto divide among
trv once more my
iiosult, forty-nine
dollars cross ro('oi|tts; audionoo icv, tho |iroinisos goimr to
wreck.^ I coidd not oven suii-ood In iiiiiking thoin a|i|il7iiid
1110. The only niaiiifostiition tlint I obtiiiiuil was n blast
of 11 wlii^flo which u faci'lioiis Tri'iitonian hiMccil at nio
after 'Muniiiiros Ki. lions.' After tho ooncot't a gontloinaii
came to ask nu' if 1 stow 'othts Kolions' ju my |iiaiiii.
Jsow .Ioi*soy is iiiourablo. Coiicorts will lu-vor take tlu ro.
Ihirry Sanderson Idinsi'lf also tried a clianci' at New
Jh'iinswiok (take iioliei' that it is tho most liboral jilarc of
all in Xow doisi-y for oonoorts), gross recoi|ils, lirst conceit
Kovontoon dollars, second concert twelve dollars. I must
iievertlieloss state that tho negro minstrel n']irosoiitalions
always diiiw the crowd.
Obsorvation— A man saiil to my ttinor, "The jkm plo
here lait down (Jottschalk, becuuse the last ti'!". ho was
here lie v.as so drunk ho oould not i»lay." To thosi' who
know my liabits this will appear loss 'iirnoble than hidi-
oroiis. Decidedly, that French pliilosopher who said with
great gravity, '• plus jo oonnais riiomine ot ithis je profori- le
chion" (the bettor I know man, tho more I prefer the doi;),
did not after all say anything!: very liorriblo. I am I'l^it
a\\;aro that dogs tear eaeh otlier to pieees with as mueh
avidity as men do.
M.irt'li 7.
Left Xew York nt ten o'clock for Pliiladolphia, who>v I
am to give u concert this evening. Last evening the oonoert
for the benelit of Harrison took place. The oVohestra per-
formed the overture of an oitera, 'bourgeois gentilhomme,'
composed by Fradellc. The German opera is broken up
for want of money.
up
March S.
Fine concert at Philadelphia. The liberal movement
Avhich is making way against Puritan bitcotrv is gainin<?
ground every day. The 'I'rotostant clergy at this moment
are taking nieasures to ]>revent the running of cars on
Sunday. They have calletl a meeting to whil-li they have
invited all those who arc in favour of observin<f the Sab-
bath. Xono but the ' reverends' were at the iiieetinir. I
played at the concert Tumdiauser" s march for four pianos.
'; 'a
I I
24Q yon:s or a /v.i.v/n?'.
RKTriiK TO Nkvv Y..UU, WMnMilny. Mnr< li 0.
In Ir^vat .Iral of taU-nt, of ^vhi.■l. I an. l.n.u.l ior .n..re
than o!,; .-.ason, l.avu.g l-ccu hi. l.rmcipul luust.r a.ul
m«mt. coUHtuiit iVirlul.
Ma- J>.
Left lor Nonvalk. In cvory M,mrtc.r 'Su. •^ u^^
an- I'l-'.sirnt.Ml with onthnsiasni. ^ '>'"f"' >,.,niH ■
o/.; 'ml.ting allthoHinall town., fhoy ^v^'» l'»-^"^l>
make in all twenty millions. .
Nor^-alk is a {.retty town, i.i.turoscino posmon. \ j
ton miles from th'o town t., tho stat.on, j-roporly ..ok J
T u. roa.l is wi.lo an.l shado.l with t.vos !)> -nnnnoi- Ik I
imoli Iho ,..vtty whitowoodon housos with groo.i shutters
"^^rti"; nntortnnato proiu.lioo! A haokman, who
had a m-o otVoro.1 mo his slrvioos with an ahnost a.greo-
no air (I say almost, hooanso no haok-<lnvor ^ toro...l to
h ,u lito, thn.ntrh .-ortain laws of whuh yon and I a o
:„,; t,'hat whioh donhtless are diotato.l *> ^ -"\ j ^
H^no anthority), no sooner saw ('»'-l;> ^„;"; ';"1;, ..^^ '^
than he clisc-overod the error he was ahont ^^\'^'' f'^
taking us for slightly respectahle |;'''5^:V: ;, " , e
ciuestlon, "Where are yon gomg, yon oti.er •' <;\ X' ^^ ^
that ho appreoiatod UH at our value, or at that winch the
tnihlic opinuni of my dear country gives ns.
^ The cLnceit take^ phu-c in on. of ^ - 'andson^ h^o
tils tliat I have yet poen in the ,^:'Vf^' \.^V 1 1. . J
hall
ouht, the same whieh I had here last
vcai is one of those for whom I am disposed to report as
manV .ieces as they wish me to. An amiahb amhence
wan^i ^ nteUiger.t, elegant, tJie majority c-omposed ot young
^i^ rwWe oTuivming^.hysiognomies are --^« ^« ^^ j, ^
oads of pianists, i.rosent and future, who ^1»«1 ^^^J l*;
(ess prudent than UlysHeB) to cast their eyos upon c.
Lditory. I>oar Xor^^llk! I love you whom I Imo m c
.thiiu' for, hoth for the warm sympathy that yo^^V'^;;
te, anS for having escaped the icy iniluence oi your neigh^
fi
lU
me
-^»»»»> i»iTlP*fftTi
-nrt^»"'^*S*-'^'»
.1/.1//.I.I/ .1. Y.V.I iiisiior.
241
lOfldny, Man li 0.
Ill jiiniii.-t who
iruutl l'i>r iiiDro
ml luasti r aiul
Ma- 0.
'Sat
n t irs
' . l.ro-
)stoii S-J(Ht,UO() ;
l,20(»,<K)i): witli-
r will i»robubly
poHiticm. It is
oiktIv s]icakiiijr.
siiiiiiiK'i", Ih'IiiihI
h givoii rihutterd
liackman, who
in almost niireo-
rivcr in tbrcctl to
1 you ami I nro
fed to thcTu l;y
niihicky violin
nt to conmiit in
itlcnu'n, and hirt
i-rt?" iir()V('<l to mo
it that which the
handsomest little
itod Statos. My
li I had hi-re last
losc'd to repeat as
iimiahlo audience,
omposcd of young
! made to turn the
A-ho shall venture
r eyes upon their
/honi I have done
hy that yon show
nice of your neigh-
hour Stamford, wlms,. niiH'iniiraiK <■, without hriiig so drnr,
A\ill last as loii.r us ^uiii-s. \V,u\ iniprfssions, uhisl nii^ravi'
thciiisclvi'H as dci'ply on the memory as the good, ami T)lti'n
the latter even arc cfliiccd while the otlu'i's still reiiiaiii.
Half ail hour after tlu^ eoiieert I was again on the rail-
road for JJostoii. One word more, ^'orwalk (it is with
regret that I state this) has no good eitrars. The one I liave
just smoked, hoiight at the hole!, is veritaide poison. Ar-
rivi'd at i$oston at seven o'clock. The railway jiorter has for-
gotten to put oiir trunks in the ear, an<l liappier than we,
tlicy remain traiKjiiilly hehiml. If tliey do not arrive in
time, we shall have t(> ]>iit off the concert this evening. I
am assured that I can sue the railroad ci.inpany, hut I know
liy heart the fahle of the iron j.ot and the earthen i.ot, and
have learned to my cost that lawsuits ai\' a had husnii'ss I'or
those who attack othei-s stronger than themselves.
UiiHTON, March 11,
rniileasaiit weather. I piny hadly — too nmcli liitigued,
and have the inilucn/.a. Ahidam Anna IJishoj) also gives
u concert this evening. She is at least lifty years ol.l,
hut thanks to lier name, rendered illustrious bv her first
husl»and. Sir llenry JJishop, the composer oif 'HonK',
Sweet Home,' and also to the great jjopulari.y she enjoys
ill the United States, which she has acciuired hy sin^nng
Knglish ballads, she still succeeds in makmggood receipts]
ller voice is yet agreeable, and she uses it with art. She
lias married, for the third time, Mr. Seliult7.e,an Anu'riean,
who has nothing to do with art. Her second husband was
Bochsa, the celebrated har].ist of the First Kmpire.
Second concert. Eichberg givea an orchestral concert.
Ennu i — en n ii i — en nui.
21
Sunday, March 13.
242
yoTES or A riAMST.
CHAPTER Xlll.
March 14.
T FFT at oi<'ht in the movning for Ts^omich (Connec-ticut).
Tn 1 o (. u- a Sibour introduoexl hinisolt \o mo as one ot
1,1,1, It- to So Ho is a singular pcrsoiingc, who dosOTvra
/ w, Tiio iiiniu'iDak have come witn me toniav i*j j^^
^/<y(//i. i he pi "1^ paid iia j ^ , ^^ introduce you
your concert But I dc.i^e I f ^ f ^^^j i „,,i,e them
to '"yfl'thvPrSiS ou t^^^ harps, which oo.t me
work it out 1)} i)racuhiuj, w _ ^o.^- . ,'„.,i i i,nvo besides
eid.t hmidral ,l«i;a.-«,tlioht«t >n 182. • ' fj, ; X^„„ f „m
t>von.y.live ,.la,»«, ta" -J ^ '-^ C/ mo*" o "Sfes^^r
the harps which are trom i»io> -i-^^'.^ „ i t
gets up he looks as if about to take wings to fly avNay. i
March 14.
oh (Connecticut).
:' to uio as one of
ic master, whose
They go from
■hich they teach
)nff8, etc. There
[his purpose,
lie snow sparkles
3 on the roail we
vho are going to
:tlcn> introduced
)ge, who deserves
re bust, short and
rii beneath which
'ofessor in a basso-
been the founder,
Gprietor for forty
)ung girls who in-
18 than fourteen or
.od health— and I
ly that during the
'Music Vale'" (tbe
ituatcd in the mid-
^.erc has vot been one
me to-day to go to
y to introduce you
, and I make them
rps, which cost me
and I have besides
old" (j"<^gi"g ^"^'""^
,' time the professor
igs to fly away. I
MUSIC VALE.
243
Va
am
gave liini seats for liimself and liis school. After the con-
ciTt he came and grasped my liand warmly ; " never, no iic\cr,
have I lieard anything so touching." liis enthusiasm kncu
no bound-; , he embraced me, and I am convinced from
making acquaintance with his breath of what I liad already
sus tected — that is to say, that the woithy professor of ' Music
e' is a nuich greater amateur of whiskey than of miisic;
after having been introduced to his pupils, I discovered
that Apollo has less to do at the seminary than his mother.
Nkw London.
Arrived at half past eleven A.M. Walked tlirough
the town in spring-like weather. The churches are in tlie
ratio of one for every ten dwellings. I noticed one dwell-
ing surrounded by gardens, which its proprietor has had
the questionable taste of painting canjiry yellow. From
the garden pales to the roof, iTicluding the shutters, all is
yellow. Another, at some distance, is painted a delicate
lilac.
March 21.
Sot out again from Philadelphia for Baltimore. It is
superb weather. I have engaged Madam \'ariani, an
American soprano, for a week. She is mairied to Edward
Ilort'man, a talented pianist, and biother to Eichard Hoff-
man.
Behrens is reading one of ' Dwight's jtapers.' I turned
hastily away, having resolved never to read that })ai>er
again.' An honest press, enlightened criticism, never
wounds mo, even when they notice my weaknesses and my
defects; but 'Dwight's paper' is the reservoir of every
little bilious envy, of every irritating impertinence, of all
sickly spleen, which, under the form of anonymous corre-
spondence, gives the writers the small comfort of injuring
all those who give umbrage to their mediocrity, and enable
them to conceal themselves behind the column of the
chief edijor, D., waiting for the passage of the object of
their envy, and then hurling at him with an edifying uni-
formity tlieir little bladders filled with gall. Theii" spite
uicreases from the small effect of their bombardment. The
doctor oftera something analogous in his mode of cure.
i
244
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
When the blooa i>. vitiate.1, is oorrnpte(J, when mnHor ha^
The nS oHMva. generally felt, and 'Dwight's paper has
been just the thing.
E,i route for Baltimore. Our car is filled with rory
,.o£' «^di^r; who sing sonp; smelling ako of tlu. d.mj
wl \ l-.>v AVo do not at first pay any attention to it, but
; tu An to he viy disagreeable. One beguis to smoke
t en 1 sc" ond-a third imitates him. AVe ask them to
^ ^.Ab^STiVom it on aceount of ^I-^- ^^^^^iiJll'^:
;-niin.r l-idv who accompanies her, to whom tie smoke is
iSaleea e They haaten to let ns kno^^^wltha crowd
^%ZL taken W the Waekguanl s die lonary lu^
we are no eentlemcn; that these are no ladies ; that, being
:;S; t4.have a' ^gf^ o do - J^^^^^
JlSt i:« tC ^^;^-X4 soh^rs in the c.r
commencecl whistling, screaming, and howling, after the
m™ of the Chinese, or of savages when they w sh o
bCw 'heir indomitable courage. An oflicer present pru-
dentlv Sained from hitertering-for many reasons His
firi (w ich I consider bad, he gave us when we ai>
loi Vn hV^ is that they arc soldiei-s on furlough, and
r hP L hanily a ri'l-ht to control them. The second
Si h he idm tgh-e '^, but which I confide in secret as
iii^^^^^^^^^^^ tL -1^-W bottle which lor t^v^ hcnir
has eole round in the vicious' circle of our her es has
Vdf manv drinking stations on his lips, and that an
officer woldd be unwelcome to reclaim an authority which
is .Irowned in a flood of spirits.
'^ We Avill do whatever we pleas ; these worrts souna
in mvearT I acknowledge that I was choked with anger-
.S'reible anger, becluse it had to be mute like right
1 ctXSe force? To be obliged quietly to Bubmit, when
vou know that you have the right on your side, is the
iardest thiiig in the world, and 1 experienced it at that
momeut.
I LOVE DA L TIMORE.
245
hen in«i+tor has
nxd huiDonrs by
sical profession,
iinity and envy,
ts bad hnmours.
ght's paper' has
illed with Tory
^o of tho eternal
tention to it, bnt
begins to smoke,
iVo ask them to
m Variani and a
)ni the smoke is
,\v, with a crowd
dictionary, that
dies ; that, being
pk'ase, and they
more remarkable
nkliers in tlie car
:)wling, after the
len they wish to
[ftcer present pru-
any reasons. His
lis when we ai>
on furlongh, and
lem. The" second
onfide in secret as
ich for two honrs
f our heroes, has
lips, and that an
u authority which
these words sound
oked with anger—
)e mute, like right
y to sul)mit, when
I your side, is the
erienced it at that
Concert at Baltimore. The hall hardly holds five or six
linndred pei-sons. I love Baltimore. I love its ])eople. I
am assured that they are St'ccssionists, but I do not wish to
know anything about it, and have no right to speak but of
that which they have let me know — the warmth of their
friendship, and the constancy witli which they keep their
apprei-iation of me as an artist. Tiesides at Baltimore they
lo\e the arts. They sing more there, and l)etter, than in
niany of tlie largo cities^if the United States. The pro-
fessoi-shiii of the [>iano is rei»resented there by artists of
great talent, who love me (() vara avis!), and whom I love.
O Baltimoreans, my friends, may you some day forget our
misfortunes ! !
March 22.
Concert at Washington. On the front row, my friend,
the Swedish Minister, Count Pieper.
March 23.
Been by carriage to Alexandria. Roads cut up. Deso-
lation everywhere. I have ol)tained a permit from the
provost-marshal to go and return the same evening by the
Virginia shore. _ Concert at Alexandria ; quieter than tlie
last ; many sentinels have mounted guard in the passages,
and hiive even sat down with the audience, to suppress the
noise should there be any. We set out again immediately
after the concert. In the first carriage with myself were
Maflam "\'ariani, Ilotfman, and his mother. In the second
carriage came Strakosch, Behrens, Carlo Patti,and Firmiu.
When all at once these words, "Halt! who goes there V"
the password! and tlie click of a gun reached us with a
clesirness of sound which was increased by the darkness
which surrounded us, striking us with an emotion (I must
confess it) not a little disagreeable. We show ou.r safe
conduct, and, after some parley, Ave proceed. A half an
hour glides i)y. The weather is superb, the sky starry,
and the atmosphere almost warm. The moon lightens the
two banks of the Potomac, on which the angular lines of
the fortifications are visible. " Halt !" Again" that devilish
click. Decidedly, I do ncjt like travelliiig in the midst of
the avant posts. We shttw our i)apers— they are right.
21*
^il
246
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
"NVo procood. The ofliocr in oonimand of the pofii keeps
our nut'e eondiu'ts, assuring ti:^ tliat they are no longer nei|eH-
sary, as in half an hour we will he at the hiidge whieh
crosses the Potomac (u hridge three-(piarters of a mile lone);
it leads into Washington. At the iniddle of the bridge
we are stopped by an untimely sentinel. Unfortunately,
our safe conducts remain hehind us. The chief of the [lOst
arrives. Impossible to pass, " it is our orders." "We shall
have to return to Alexandria ; hut the situation on that
side is scarcely more favourable. AVe have no permission
to enter Alexandria by night, and avc shall he obliged to
remain on the road until daylight.
Max 8trakosch, who has ffot out and has gone on before
to confer Avith the commander of the post, losing patience
at this jtiece of obstinacy, let escajio an energetic exclama-
tion in the language of the ' Vaterland.'^ good luck! the
sergeant is a German. He loves music jjcrhaps, and the
end of Carlo's violin case that sticks outside the coach door
convinces him of our innocence and peacefulness. He jab-
bers in German with his comjiatriot 8trakosch, and the end
of it is that we pass, after (for form only) the brave warrior
has examined our countenances by placing his lantern under
our noses.
March 24.
Concert at "\Vashington. The President of the United
States and his lady are to be there. I have reserved seats
for them in the tirst row. The Secretary of State, Mr.
Seward, accompanies them. Mrs. Lincoln has a very ordi-
nary countenance. Lincoln is remarkably ugly, but has an
intelligent air, and his eyes ha\Ta a remarkal>le expression
of goodness and mildness. After an encore I played iny
fanUisia, ' L'Union,' in the midst of great enthusiasm. Lin-
coln does not wear gloves. I played very badly, and -was
furious against myself, which, however, did not prevent
many of my friends from coming to congratulate me on my
success. Giie of them Avho Avas present at the iirst concert
(at Avhich, by-the-bye, I played very Avell) said to me, "Well
and good, you are in the vein to-night, for at the first eon-
cert one saw that }ou Avere badly prepared,"
LIEVTENAyr-GENERAL GliAST.
247
the pofit keeps
no longer neces-
le biidire wliieh
■(ofa mile lone:);
le of the bri«lgo
Untbrtuimtely,
chief of the [lost
lers." We shall
ituation on that
.e no permission
all be obliged to
IS gone on before
t, losing patience
lergetic exelama-
) g"oo(l luck ! the
perhaps, and the
le the eoaeh door
ulness. He jab-
iseh, and the end
the brave warrior
his lantern under
March 24.
nt of the United
ivc reserved seats
ry of State, Mr.
\ has a very ordi-
,' ngly, but has an
rkal>le expression
core I played my
nthusiasm. Liu-
y badly, and ^\'as
did not prevent
atulate me on my
t the iirat eonc ert
said to me, " Well
>r at the first eon-
d."
Godl Friday, March 25.
Took the railroad to return to Baltimore, ainl met there
my excellent and eonstuiit friends, Mrs. li and her
daughter.
March 26.
Concert at Washinsjton. Crowded from toj) to bottom —
everyplace taken. liientenant-General Grant, and all his
statt'i were present, Gi-ant, the most fortunate of all our
generals, is a small man, of ordinary appearance, slendi'r,
modest. He has taken more than one hunctred thousand
Itrisonei-s, and captured tive hundred cannons in two year^
and a half. The title of Lieuten;T; 1-General, which has
just been decreed to him by the government, is at the least
equivalent to Marshal (of France). We have never luul
but three lieutenant-generals: the first was Washington,
the second Scott, after his fortunate Mexican cam[)aign", and
the third Grant.
Madam Variani sang 'The Star Sjiangled Banner,' eacii
stanza of which was applauded to the skies, and encored.
The enthusiasm nevertheless is confined to the gallerv
filled with soldiers ; the parterre, the boxes, and orchestral
stalls abstain from demonstration. You are not ignorant
that Washington is of very doubtful loyalty, and that lier
most inrtueutial families sympathize with the South.
Easter Snnd.y March 27.
■•o>.\ for Balti-
t my good
It is most beautiful weather. I set out ag
more at half-past seven P. M., and arrived
friends, the Curletts, at ten o'clock.
March 28.
Left for Ilarrisburg. For seven years I have endeavou red
eight or ten times to give a concert at Ilarrisburg, and every
time I have been prevented by some unforeseen circum-
stance. You will perhaps recollect that last year he Con-
federates invaded Pennsylvania at the time announced tor
my concerts, and that on the day I arrived at IFarrisbiirg,
the avant guard of the Secessionists was only a few hours
from the city, and the concert was put off incletinitely.
r
248
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
Harrisbi-ro, March 28.
Car.ital (scat of govcnnncnt of i'ennsvlvania). ^^^'IJ
'hJir customs. Its houses auil pavemeuts ot hiick au c Itan.
Th « of the streets, like all others ^-^r;;y^:^
are borrowed from the vegetable kmLnlom-Uiei.} htua,
A rZa StU,Walnut Stl^et, ete Tf^c c.i>vtc>U - ;- --
arc two large halls for the legislative bodies, is a inggau 1>
mo. uincS cut stone and bricks, surmounted by a cui-la
TcSed position in the middle of a green lawn gives it
SI ccr+ain air of grandeur. ., i.„..„„
"The concert t'akcs place in ^e court-house, ^^^ytue
wishes to install the , piano on the P^f, ^^dS s sent
o'clock but the court is in session, anil the Judge lias sen i
won tc'> him to wait an hour. The hall is i.retty, and my
Tno isbelow the J udge's seat. The audience is charni-
i I observe in it some of those rose and lily complexions
oKhich our ladies have the privilege, and which I denounce
to the artists who follow me, as being those ^vhlch trouble
the soul while you are playing.. They "J^^f ^-u i .^y al-
notes, and give a suppressed ^V^^^^very tinie that oui im
agination evokes their charming images, ihe hotel i^ ex
cellent. March 29.
I iust woke up, calling for help. Civilization is outraged
hy . Iwirc'ustonAo which we «ul'""V "T n.^cn
kind of cowardice which we exhibit in regard to all ancient
u acet^an abominable custom which lacerates the ea.--I
snefkVtlic gona. What! I am of my own tree will in a
Kuo e o/airthe privilegesof hosj.itality and I must
submit to tlil unmerciful discipline which condemns me, by
a barbarous fashion, to be deprived ot my s kep
A reo-imcnt of veterans are passing under m> \"}f^".^\^;
I fm told that for three days they have been figt^ting
front of the army of the Potomac. I took notice yestei da}
at a s ati^n of Lie fortifications improvised with trunk
of tree and a block-house, built since the invasion ot last
veai I took avvalk through the streets and recogiuze
£ charming young girl who applauded me so much la.t
'The world behind the scenes is all in a flurry on account of
REJECTED CRITICISM.
249
isBfRo, March 28.
ylvania). Well
Lt lias preserved
f bru'k are elean.
u reiuisylvania,
—Cherry Street,
»it(tl, where there
•s, in a niggardly
ited hyaeiiiiola;
jcn lawn gives it
ouse. My tuner
bnn about tour
e Judge has sent
8 pretty, and my
udience is charin-
L lily coniplexiona
wh'ieh I denounce
ise which trouble
ike you play false
inie that your inv
The hotel is ex-
Marcli 29.
zation is outraged
»mit through that
irard to all ancient
x-erates the ea>; — I
own free will in a
tality, and I must
h condemns me, by
ly sleep.
nder my windows,
e been fighting in
k notice yesterday
Dvised with trunks
he invasion of last
ets and recognized
1 me so much last
lurry on account of
an adventure of which Mademoiselle Vestvali, 'the superb,'
as the i)lay bills annomice her, bus been the heroine, 1 was
going to say the victim, if the buxom jiroportions and
maseuliiie (jiaracter of the celel)rated contralto did not
render it impossible that she should ever play that role.
8he has smartly chastised the two fools who got scotched
by her rich attractions.
_ "lie never [ilays but his own nmsic." Of all the criti-
cisms of which 1 am the object on the part of tlie impotent
and jealous who, like thorns and barren bushes, encumber
every avenue of art in America, I avow, that this is the
one which I am the least disposed to accept. If I had
never been able to compose, no doubt that the jioorest of
nmsieal pretenders who had mamifacturcil a polka or a
valse, would have thrown it in my face that I ])laye<l
only the nuisic of othera. If my comi)osition,4 had tailed
in originality, "they are copies,^' woulil not have failed to
have Ijeen said; but I compose, and what I compose is
unfortunately my own, and further, the jiublie seem to
like my music; hence their rage. I understand it, but
what I cannot understand, is that after taking a great deal
of trouble to find fault with me, they make that a crime
in me which really is a merit. It is the cunning of tJie
fox — unlortunately one of that ainmal's an.-estors was
guilty of the same thing with a vine of our acquaintance,
and suice then we have heKl him in slight estimation.
Sometimes, in my moments of dist-ouragement, I feel
what the white man felt in the midst of negroes, when he
was disconsolate because he Avas white and liad not a fiat
nose. I begin to regret having received from God the
afilicting gift of being able to" create. AVliy cannot I
enjoy in all the plenitude of its glorious privilege the
right of criticism, and of being able to bark at those who
compose? Criticism in these cases is so much sweeter. If
Thackeray was lecturing to you would you comi)lain that
he gave you Thackeray, and would it not be absnrd if he
recounted to you the [lassages of Handet or Othello \\hi<-h
any actor could recite to you? Perhaps they could recite
it better than Thackeray ; would you conclude from that,
that Thackeray l-ad less talent? Xo, certainly, because a
vulgar mind, po messing no peculiar physiognomy, no strongly
i!
1 ;
' ii
250
NOTES OF A I'lAMST.
inarkod character, can accommodate himself ^o every fashion,
while ho who has heeii east in an orijrinal mould cannot aluU-
eato his iiidividnalitv, <»r that which jjives him siiju'rionty,
in onU'r to reduce himself to the level of the hrst comer
who k owi- how to read and has a voice sutftcieiitly loud to
m&h limself heard. Do you wish to insinuate that the
'\\Mri are superior to all which we accomi)lish i (iranteil,
Jvn !h, dcswhat I reserve to myself to ask of you some
*>tiir..r u.y what you understand hy the classics this con-
vi-nient c' ' with which you knock on the head all those
who unnoy you, I should like to know it', hecause the
apple is a fruit less delicate than the i.ineapple, you woul.l
wish that there should he no apples? Jierhoz told me that
the originality, the suhtlc retinement ot a special talent,
could only he appreciated in very old societies. It we are
vet to lu-oclaim an art and to form our taste, then i
understand that you would like hetter a tame interpreta-
tion of consecrated chefs-(V(tuvrc, than an original, which
is not yet consecrated and whose place m art you dare not
vet desi'niate. I continue the comparison I bcLran. llic
Consecrated ehcfs-iVinivre are the roast heel, Ics grosses
piars dc resistance, on which the people must be nourislied,
who hegin to feed at the hanciuet of civilization, lint
wherefore, when they are sufiiciently fortihed, should
YOU refuse them the little dainties of the dessert, par-
ticularly if, in place of being insipid and indigestible, they
seem to stimulate your taste and refresh your palate dulled
and overheated by too rich food? Have you comp amed
that Rachel was only great in the tragedies ot Corneille and
Kaeine? Have you denied her .talent because she avoids
comedy? We all know that Shakesi)eare is superior to
Mr. De Cordova; nevertheless, none of those who listen to
the charming lectures of this witty artist conceives that it is
a crime in him to give us his own instead of permitting
himself to be taken in tow by a great name embalmed by
the "-lory of two or three centuries. The question is
reduced to this, 'all apples must have the taste of pine-
apples,' if this be the case, 'your humble servant, 1 am not
the man for you. I do not undei-stand that art is like a
uniform in which all of us must be aligned and drilled
like Prussian sergeants.
LANCASTER, VKSWA.
251
o every fiishion,
ild cannot iilnli-
liin snjH'riority,
tlu' tirst c-onKT
Hi'ioiitly loud to
innate that the
lish'i (i ranted,
sk of you isonio
a.ssii's, this con-
head all those
if, heeause the
jiple, you would
ioz told nie that
a special talent,
'ties. If we are
ir taste, then I
tame interpreta-
original, whieh
iirt you dare not
n I began. The
beef, ics grosses
list be nourished,
ivilization. But
fortified, should
the dessert, par-
indigestible, they
our palate dulled
you complained
s of Corneille and
icaiise she avoids
ire is superior to
ose who listen to
;onceives that it is
.'ad of permitting
,me embalmed hy
The question is
the taste of pine-
servant,' I am not
that art is like a
iscned and drilled
There are some individuals who oi.lv Hke dried fruit;
they even like it a little mouldy, aixl if thev tiinl dust in it
they are transjiorted. The fruit in llower, tiie perfume
winch ojiens t<» the sun and l)etrays a voinitf and viiiorons
irrowth, 'Fie then, ].ooh!' aial everv fool who kiidws no
better, cries out, Fie! jiooh! and all the envious and im-
l-otent, who, in their conscience know better, join in the
chorus, so well that the poor apple tree, that' innoci'iitiv
opens Its flowers to the sim, leaving to nature, who hall
iiiade It a tree and not a bush, the ripcninir of its fruit, finds
Itself wholly Interdicted, and would let itself dry uj. wit',
chagrin, if it did not feel withui a conscience stronirer t! u
the clamoring of the fool, the envious, and the iguoriuit.
Lancaster, Marc: -k
_ The concert was very pjood last evening. The ' ,u 1 i.
like all the other IVnnsylvania houses, of brick witl" wh'vi
windows; and a low and narrow door. In the arlour
there is invariably placed horizontally on tlie mai i'< o
one of those oblong looking-glasses, divided into three com-
partments, which date from the begiiming of this century.
}\'e si'i- around us old family [lortraits, badlv painted but
interesting from the simiilicitv of their details and their
costumes wliich belong to the last centuiy. One fact to be
noticed is the remarkable fecundity of the fiimilies. In
Pennsylvania the carriages, the waiting-rooms at tlu? stations,
are filled with ehubby-faced childi-en. The population,
although American, have preserved all the characteristic
traits of the Oiermanic provinces, the large shoes, the immense
round hats, and green vests with doul)le rows of gilt but-
tons, and their blue or yellowish surtouts with oiormous
skirts, which the (ierman peasants have the exclusive privi-
lege of wearing, abound here. The women have their waists
under the arms; some wear an iron gray horizontal bonnet,
like that with which the (^lakeresses nmffle up their
heads under an affectation of Christian humility. We oh-
served at the station an emigrant with three pairs of twins.
Their mannei-s ai-e generally more gentle and simple
than those of the other States which I have visited. Tliere
IS less luxury and a kind of patriarchal simplicity.
%
I
il
rf ■ «■
::ii.1
252
NOTES OF A PLlSrST.
March 30.
Loavo nt clin-on o'clock for lIarriHl)ur<:.
Alter liiiviiit,' lui.l u foretaste of spring wo nro npiin i>ro-
cipitatcd amid tlio rcifioiis of winter. Duriiifi tiie wliolo
wei'k the atniospliere was warm antl everything green was
Hprouting in the snn, and now the rain, tlie snow, tlio
hail, ai:;l the -.vhole (U-solate train of a season m whi •li,
despite all the Northerners say of it, I have not yet Inrn
able to fmtl any charm, hnt in which, on the contrary, I
constantly ilis»-over fresh enemiis. At the con.ert thi»
evening the (Jovernor and the Secretary of State \yere pre-
Hent. "To-morrow morning I leave at eight o'clock for JJeth-
lehem,where 1 givea con<ert in theeveninjr. _
Observation! 1 am hound to state that here, instead ot
wivinir ' man,' they say 'gentleman.' The young clerk at
the desk in ])ointuiuMis out to the waiter sai<l, "Show these
gentlemen their rooms." In the AVes-t they invariably
say ' man.' The driver no more speaks to us as 'tvilo\ys,
and I have not yet heard any one say 'show' in speukmg
of our concerts. „ i ,. , ■ •
Decidedly, although a little behindhand, reunsylvunm is
more polite thuii some of her brilliant sisters.
«
March 31.
Left for Bethlehem at eight o'clock in the morning.
Behrens, who is alwavs hungry, buys a dozen oranges.
He complains that fruit is not nourishing, and that it is
two hours since he breakfasted, and what a breakiast . .
^\<: arrive at Bethlehem in an hour; it is a very I'i^/"-
rcsque village. The princii»al street runs up-hill, and, like
all the interior towns of I'ennsylvauia, it looks oldish
and quiet. The houses are low, the windows and doors
narrow. We tinallv found the village hotel. W hat most
strikes the intelligent tourist who visits the United States
to seek something else than his fortune, is the absence ot
all tradition, everything is new; everything glitters like
new-made furniture. We seek in vain for anything whicli
8].eaks to the imasination carrying it back ot the present
generation. The Villages are towns in miniature. 1 he tar-
mers' wives and daughters wear crinoline and bonnets with
flowers. Here, at least, I find one o.'" those good old taverns,
-I»li« i
THE GOOD OLD TAVLIiX.
258
March 30.
nre ii;;uin jirc-
iijlC tin- wliolo
iiiiT irrrt'ii \\i\n
lie Hiiow, tlic
«tn ill wlii'h,
i not yi't lu'i'ii
10 contrary, I
.\ comrrt tlii»
•tatt' W'.'n' piv-
•lofk for Jk'th-
icro, instead of
ounj; clerk at
, " Siiow tlu'so
K'y invariably
Urt as 'fvllows,'
v' in speaking
'cnnsylvunia ia
March 31.
the morning,
ilozen oranges,
und that it is
, a breakfast ! !
s a very iiietu-
p-hill, antl, like
t looks oldish
ows and dnora
il. AVhat most
i United States
the absence of
iig glitters like
inything which
of the present
iturc. The far-
id bonnets with
ood old taverns,
puch as oxistod in the last century. 'I'lie master and mis-
tress of the hotel (two good f)ld peojile) come to receive us
on the jiorcli. " You are welcome," they suiil to us.
Magiiiliceiit concert. Tin' hall full. Tlic whole villago
was jircsent. Tlie st'iuinary was represented by two hun-
dred and Olid pretty young girls. The pojiulation is wholly
(lerman, and the government Moravian. After the concert
a dance at the hotel, (t'harmiiig yountr gii'l !)
Carlo is decidedly the spoile<l child of the boarding-
pchools. All the young girls dote on liim. lie is JK'sidcs
a <liarming fellow. 1 have to write my autograph hun-
dreds of times.
I have forgotten to mention tlie Moravian churcli, in
whose interior are found the portraits of tlie founders of
the colony, vvhieli luive countenances impossible to describo
— all (k'rmans. At tlu- coiu-ert I ivniarled a man in spec-
tacles and his wite, wbo luuiched all the time and never
once applauded. I wager a lumdred to one that ho is the
jirofcssor of the jdace! 1 have visited tin- seminary, which
IS suiierb. There are two hundred and twenty scholars,
divided into twenty families of ten scholars, who each liavo
their halls for study, their overseers, and their dormitories,
Ro disposed that they are constantly under the eye of the
master. There is a large basin of running water in which
they can swim in summer. I have heard less swearing in
Bethlehem than in any other place in the United States,
and I have seen fewer drunkards there. This gives it a
place in my memory — a privileged pli.ce ; the horror which
I have for drunkenness not being ccpialled except by that
Avhich Mr. D. has for my music. Another thing to state,
although I have walked all over the town, I have not even,
heard once the ' Maiden's I'rayer.' Decidedly, " Bethlehem,
you wish to make a conquest of me '. I !"
22
2.U
SOTES OF A riAMST.^
(ilAlTKR XIV.
Li'FT nt ^i\' '>\l(>ck, iiccoinpim'u'il l>y tlic liidios at tlu'
licti-l. We i.rnv...l at Kastoi, (twi'iitv-i'ight inik's) at si'Vi-ii
oVloi-k. Tlu'V I'oiiirlit to tret iiitntlK'i'oucfrt-i-ooiii. llu'liall
liaK nniv fniir hundred mits, and tlicy liavi' Hold nix Imn-
divd tirki'ts. / /n//» H,r r<n,/,s h yd //*. The aveiiiu's aro
(.Ixtnutc'd hv thuso who canu- late and have to Htand(lur-
iiw the eonc'ert. Althonirh they have [.lit all the ehairs ot
the nei-rhhonrhood \\\ reiiiiisitioii, mine, whieh was l)etore
the i.iano, has luvn taken l.y a ,i,'entlenian who is deternunet
to keep it without wishin.<,Molte <(.nvineed. _ A piece ot old
theatre curtain Innii,' on crosswise on one side of the (.lat-
ionn conceals ns from the audience when we do not have
to appear. It is the nrtists romn. We have ri'turned to
Bcthlelicni with the hulies and irentlenien. In the traui
the whole conipanv connnenced sni«;in;<; my ' t'radle Nuitr,
I'atti sin'nn<'- a hiLdi tenor. One couple who were sleepmi;
Bent, us and our ' I'radle Soni;' to all the .Icvils. ^\ e found
cv»>rvl>odv up at the hotel waitin.i; for us ; and the younj;
(rirls fron'i the seminarv haviuij ohtained permission to pass
the ni.Ldit with their relatives at tliu hotel, they danced to
a lato hour.
April 2, 18G4.
Left nethlehem. The professor of the place and some
vomit; r.<-ople escorted us t(. the station. 1 ho whole semi-
narv ^in at the windows; there is nothint; to he seen but
Avaxin.' handkerchiefs ; as we descend the hill the younj?
ladies ascend to the upper stories ; the dormer-windows are
soon invaded. The road makes a turn ; a.irain a last Ook
east behind. I perceive a very small white point wljicli
waves above the to), of the roofs. I wave my ham kerclnet
hi answer to this unknown little friend (may God bless her);
no more— nothiui; more. .
At the station we saw the country contingent oi con-
1
77//; <,i:i{.\tA.\' cnxsciufT.
2:)r>
ic ladies at tlio
luik's) at si'vi'ii
roein. Tlu-liall
o n(»l(l six liiin-
riio avt'iiui's arc
o to Htaiitl (lur-
all till' fliairs of
hich wart lu't'ore
lio irt (U'tiTiiiiiuMl
A iiii'ct' ot'olil
side of tlio |ilat-
wc do not liavo
ave ri'tui'iR'd to
II. Ill tlu' train
y ' CradU' Soiit!:,'
iio wi'iv slocpiiij;
•vilrt. We found
; and Uie yoniijj;
ji'inirtsioii to ])asrt
, they dunoed to
April 2, 1SG4.
' jilaco aial wnno
The whole seini-
>; to he Keen hnt
le hill the yoiintj;
mer-windowrt are
iirain a last look
liite jioint whieh^
my handkeivhief
iiyGodhlessher);
Dntingent of con-
B(Ti|its leave. A sad siufht 1 Some of these |inor yoiimr
men hliHtered and saiic, whilst otlicrs luivc found in iluir
tla-k the lieees.siry eoiiniire for M'|iaiatioii. The jri">iitest
numlMT, those who have sistern, a mother, chililr ii. a wife,
wh(»m they leave hehiiid them with a vairiie and very dis-
tant hope of s.'rinir apiin, hctray, in s|iite of American
Btoirism, their emotions hy u >(lod hiess you,' 'do not try,'
'one more kisH.' Some veterans, hayonet on their jfiiiis,
Hlirround the detaehineiil. A (fei'inaii eoiiHiiipt ohtailis
leavi- U) remain a few pates hehintl, and murmurs wortln of
consolation in the ear ttf ii.s pot>r wife, anil his little
dailirhter stretthes herself up on tiptoe, while tryiiiir, to
kiss him. lie rejoins the tietaclinitnt, and I see him Miiok-
iiij; his pipe with aswairtrer; he appears thouuht less. The
train starts; the pt)or man leans Mit the tloor to see his-
wife oiiee mt)re. Adieu to all hra!;t;'ni; I Nature at the
last moment has asserted her ritrhts. "■ hear Catherine,"
Haid he with hrt)ken vi:iee, "(iod, (ioil hIess ♦lu't-I" A
lari;e tear eoursetl tlown his cheek. He ean lauirh no more,
nor these his eoiiipaniitiis. AVitf— witl'- witf— the en<::ine
has startetl. The ert)wd give three hurrahs! I loiinii, on
retiirninu; to the hotel, poor Catherine weepiiiLT in a eorner,
her heatl hitl in her apron, with her little tlauuhler. '' How
many ehildivn have ytui'.'" I asketl her. "Ktair," she
f;eiitly answereil me. (Jotl knows if my heart did not
deed at the j)ifture of ijcrief anil pain which I foresaw ft)r
this ]K)or liimily. 1 slippetl some mt»ney into the chilli's
hantl and stole away without lookini; hehind me, thinkinif
on the imprescriptihle ri<i-ht of those fatherless tiimilies
upon us all who are in possession of the supertiiiities of
life, thanks to the iKwition in which it has pleased Gtxl to
jilaco us.
Arrived at I'altimore. I am with my good friends the
Cnrletts. Sunday [ was at high mass and heard a
delicious 'Agnus l)ei' of Marst liner sung hy .Mrs. 15 .
The reli' ions music of Weher resenihles some of the opera
airs of 1, 'ssini. The sermon is poor anil the preacher has
a most jnonouneetl Irish accent. An oltl maid. Miss II.
(near a saint), who in the. choir does police duty over those
in atteiiduiKc, and easts, es]teeially on the young girls.
T
256
NOTES OF A PIAXIST.
iV.f c'nlS^a:^ i.- tloL s„,,r as the grcc, gmr-of the
'"'i!^;il,.rk on l.oar.1 tl.o Morgan. Arrive at Fortress _
,,':X^' \,," 14. We lan,l,onr steamer not going any
fXr.an t .o oatl> of Melity to fl.e governn>eat mu t
ill .1,,, ,11 those who leave here tor Norfolk, toitj
^?. 'u^n ri L o*b- va,-eh<,u«..s for military stoi-e,, and
and the matter is finislied.
Norfolk, "Virginia, April 14.
Mamliv I wished to purchase a note-book, and lor this
pur p^; entei. d a shoeXre, in ^J- -J^-y J^J^^'f
sins 'rS tta'S (W Gri"), r<-i'-,;,'L-*
Vi^ Vi ' '!..nlf Opc, Cloches da Monastere,' and all the
SiSpted to the. aro^su.1; thoy, pro neo^tn^one
tlik"rutl° * 'tnAled\or"r moment, thhiking tliat I
Sdi«d the words ' The Maiden's rrayer '•, it was only a false
K™ Norfolk which had six years ago its nopiilation
I
i t^ i i i iW&Mn * i L Tl ^«? * " ■
r/^
"THE BATTLE CRY OF FREEDOM:^
257
part -whioli slie
, ami puts on a
19 caught Mary
sings the alto in
ions), staring— a
inie, and oomoa
twenty years of
•os! s])oken with
tury of virginal
;eu grapes .of the
rive at Fortress
r not going any
government must
' Xorfolk. Fort-
ilitary stores, and
piled up. In the
ed hefore a desk
ine of them reads
r handd together,
, Virginia, April 14.
book, and for this
ndow of which I
k. At the end of
ed up on a tahle ;
; also, and he gives
' La Californienne'
Irisi) polka, 'Last
stere'' and all the
:he war—' Do they
>t weep,' etc. All
:ouching, but the
hey produce in one
rilo' would dressed
>nt, thinking that I
''•jitAvasonlyafalse
ago its population
QV\ Xorfolk, which
al and Confederate
armies; Xorfolk, ruined finally, deserves to be spared, and
for once at least it escapes the plague of the ' Maiden's
1 raver,
'Tlie Battle Cry of Freedom.' I am accustonied to ju(l.--e
ot tlnngs l„r myself and to give myself but little troulHo
about tlie (late or signature of a piece of nuisic. I am
aware that in so doing I manifest my perfect ignorance of
the rules ot respect which one owes to one's self, and that
tlie great art-i)ropliets will shrug their shoulders wiili i)itv
on reading tliis confession whicli I make without blushing,
hardened sinner that I am, but what do vou desire? I
Jove better to diseover in my chance wand-rings a little
unknown flower, huml)]y conc-ealed at the foot ot' a thorny
bush,tlian to be the infinitesi-ual fraction of a Icirion whom
traaitK.ii makes l)ear arms on the great road 'of routine
betore tlie banner of a miserable chcf^rocacrc consecrated
by luiuiy generations of blind adiuirers, influenced by
prejudice. "^
'The Battle Cry of Freedom' is this obscure flower Ml.icli
1 Jmve discovered on the heap of dirt wliicli the iioetasters
and the masun^tcrs have raised at the foot of their
country s altar since the war began. I know that many
^Ti li ^.T^. '""^ J"A' Pi-ctousions are not well foun(le(l,
lie Lattle Cry ot Freedom' being very popular; and tJ
those I shall reply, that, as their admiration extends to a
crowd ot other trifles possessing neither poctrv nor melody,
they should not suppose that their suttrages can be flattJr-
ing to an author.
lie who drinks whiskey with pleasure should not ven-
ture Ins opinion upon Tokay wine.
'The Battle Cry of Freedom' ought to become our
national air; it has animation, its harmonies are distin-
guished. It has tune, rhythm, and I discover in it a kind
ot epic colouring, something sadly lieroic which a battle
song should have.
I'he judgnient of certain persons is like slov/, sluggish
waters winch would stagnate and grow thick with imid
It canals were not opened for them which they have not
the ioree to make for themselves. The )udgment of these
people IS at the mercy of tashionable prejudices, of routine,
and particularly of ideas consecrated by time. It is from
00*
2-3 NOTES OF A PrANIST.
mssmmm
it folk of itself, bat when ''/» » «;^:;;™\;/' u;^ , -U
plant. Ihej ' "„ ,1, „n.,.clv iuv its flowed oiion, iiiul
solcitrak', mill sec "Hli S''^''^ J'V, ,,, ., „„„,| lliing to
i:irsS!Sf''^.::o;:is:;?...o...a.co.,.ti.ca,
CTaul again into their »™™»';, .,, ;, „,,, „ost inn.iroa
Beethoven, taken a »^J f X ,mn>ose» l-est for tl.o
an,„ns ^-^C^i^^J ek^^^ whlli he combines
orehe«tra. the '""'""'S.' , ,„ ,i,„ orchestra as he has
on ,,aror a.-e always rcateeJ « <^^^^ ,,„ ,.„„, ,
ooncervc, l>en> A» ^ ;»"?;, F^^ „f „„' i,„emge,Ke m
low luetlioi'iit},--!"*^ 'Y , 1,^, ,1,,,^ PxH'tliovcn over dm.
our day., writes V;^"^\^' ^ ^^ !f !^\.,*^X a about to exolain.?
BEETHOVEX AND THE PfAXO.
•2J9
the roguos, ilic
sot" whirh thoy
I all those euvi-
lyjiotlu-^ical air,
mr." I low dv-
•hom you envy 1
iity that 1 have
In- (U«agreeal)le
imply a scandal,
h! what aAviml-
like a hot-house
or it with tender
lowers open, and
a good thing to
Happens to these
it happened to I
lask falling ott" at
ion which should
ic's, died poisoned
is what the Span-
lid has sung again
igs Avhen he is not
; and the immense
loli has, all pulling
leck of Mazzolini,
IS he used to, have
vhoUy discomiited,
i the most inspired
nposes hest for the
hic-h he eomhines
rchestra as he has
le piano he falls he-
my intelligence, in
Beethoven ever did.
II ahout to exclaim?
.'isrht of admiration
Q great, and it is
.toscehisfeehlcness.
'ut which Beethoven
hut imperfectly knew, and \\hieh hesidcs at the jicriod he
wrote was hut the embryo of the piano which is made hy
modern manufacturers. The instrinueutation of tlii' jiiano
is a special matter. The point in ipiestion is not only to
have ideas, hut to know how to adapt them to the piano,
and this is what Beethoven only imiierfectly knew. The
ideas m beautifully and so marvellously clothed in all the
sjilendoiir or all the tenderness which the orchestra affords
him in his profoundest researches are clumsy and often
tame when he adapts them to the jiiano. The number of
formuhe which he i)repared for the j>iano were extraordi-
narily limited, and in many passages we feel what he has
wish'e<l by perceiving that he has not attained what he de-
sired. Many of the eifeets Avhich he combined from his
knowledge of the orchestra have failed on the jiiano, from
iK)t knowing how to translate them into the peculiar lan-
guage of this instrument.
Suppose Raphael engraving his pictures himself after
having paintecl them. The lines, the contours the design
of them would always he pure, the first conception always
inspired; hut the execution, the details, the tints, the
shadows, the lights, the life finally, — do you think he would
have ol)tained them? The poorest engraver would have
succeedetl better.
Behrens, my accompanist, has just gone on a tour of dis-
covery in the town. He has made the acquaintance of tlic
leader of the orchestra. The jtoor man is in distress ; he
was wishing to make his performers play in my honour an
overture whicli the public had never yet heard, hut he has
had to give it up; his orchestra being com])osed of five
nnisicians, one of which is a kettle drummer'.! The poor
man was distressed at the idea of having to accompany lue
in Weber's concerto.
Tncsrtay, April 5.
There happened to me yesterday the most singular, the
most incomprehensible, nlost disagreeable thing that has
happened to me for many years. After dinner I went down
to play at billiards. Tlie waiter came to tell mc that a
gentleman wished to speak to me at the office. I told the
260
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
turncl, sayu>^ that the g<^^'>t\™;^^^ ^l tbun.l mynelf in
and wa. waiting tor «»;; .,,^ ^^^^'i^".Ve moustac-hcs, in onli-
tb. presence ot a, ^^entk-nian ^^^3 > '^-\ .,^ Clark, and ^vheu
nar>- dress, who ^«f "J-^^. f^;\"; ^ ;i:;;;no. I am Captain
I asked tor you ^^ ^^'f {''" I'tlJ^.ii you to eomo wlien I
Clark I tell 3;ou, and ^^ Um^^^ ,ne, puttu.g his fist
send tor you. All tui^ ^^iVp .inouitv of a Prussian ser-
ander iny nose and ^^•^^^\. V^/"!^^^;?^^^^ used in
geant repriman.lmg a ^"ou^cn t ^^^^^/^ J tirat he
fneiitioning his luune and J;' ^^^^^^ '\\\','^,,'ayor ot" th. town,
^vas one ot' t^'^^^^'V'^'" '^U\ 1 i iw ttingly some serious
,„,1 that we had ^'^>"^"^^^ ^ f ^ • "^ ^^ tJu Ine what was the
offeiue. I humbly ^^^"^f S ^,,^Xa ^ lady in rl,e dining-
niatter. " You have just ^^l^ .1 ^ r^^,^ accusation
room, and I wish to P^nus i you h r it ^, ^^ ^ ^^^^
,vas so absurd, and so ">;^;\«^|\j;^ ^;,, m,, an' .Ntadam
aiiK.l alone at ^;. f l^'^^tm. f win to replv, an<[ t
Bohrens, that I did not ^no>^ at « 1^ • ^ ^^ ciark
thou-ht whicli came to V^J^^"^ the lu-t^om ofabot^
ha.l tl.ouglitbinisel. akn j^^^>t^ena t at m^^ -...nltod was as
tie of whiskey, and that the '» '> \,V})^„, o.nxotc when
imadnary as the .irmies PJ^t ^ f - l^^^, ' ^i. ^k , supported
he foudit against the wmdniiH.. e ' .1 ;^ "^^ ■ ^^ \^\^ that
by n.myotlier valiant ^^avnon., h s ■ ^ J;-^ «;^ - ^^^^^ ^^,
Iwas only -"^romm^- the^ la^K , ^J.^^^^^^ ^J^,^, that
all of us was vPomt^v^ ■ ith ^^-J^^^^ j,,,,, to show him-
be wo.dd punis" lu, c^ . A coK , ^ ^^^^^^^ ui ,vai
self, a. .led m tbo ^ok- ot ^y^^f' jj window." I as-
throw him and -^^^'^f^J^J^ "ny lady at the
snred the ^aptain that 1 had^^^^^ insulting^
table, and that ^ff des I ^Aas not m t e i ^^ ^^.^^^,^^ ^^^
ladies. I g'^ve him my ^^old to 1. j ^^^,.,
honour is not worth much. I do "^t ^ ^^^ ^ ^^^, ^^ ^
known you for twenty y^^ ; ^^^^^^ j'' U iptaiu I would
had had the least ;^";;;,;^!,i \t S^bJ^lities of crushing
have jumped on him ^ '^"^ ^ ' " ' > i^^,,,, niore than absurd
"THE CAPTAIN CLAJiKS."
261
but ho poon re-
\\A\ ;<> t'oiiie in,
tbun<l myself iii
istuc'lics, in ordi-
Clnrk, and when
, 1 am Captain
conio wlicn 1
, putting his fist
' II Prussian sir-
phasis he used in
suppose that he
lyor of thv town,
;iy t«>me serious
me what was the
[y in t^io dining-
The aH'cusation
e fact t- »t I had
Mr. an' .Ntadam
>plv, and' tlie only
[lilt Captain Clark
10 lutt torn of a hot-
ad in.-ailtedwas as
[)ov, Quixote when
n Ci: .v., supported
ds, sal I to me that
that ; he plaee for
a closed door), that
xious to show him-
iopotamus,^^"Iwill
e window." I i^''-
n any lady at the
3 habit of insult mg_
"Your w-ord ot
elieve you. I have
t could I do i It I
he captain I wouUl
ibilities of crusluns;
■u more than absurd
u unmerited uisnlt,
1 whose esteem was
e I was wholly igno-
rant of. In the mean time I must say that where soldiers
rule is not a good i)lace for civilians, particularly if they
have the misfortune to pass for being jiolite and men of the
world. There is nothing of which we are more jealous
than those qualities we hear praised in others, and which
we do not ourselves possess. The Captain Clarks are
numerous, and he is not the first of the species I haN<! met
with, although I am jtleased to say, that no one has yet
e(pialled h'un in brutality and rudeness. However, I have
since learned that it was a plot got uj) beforehand to seek a
quarrel with me, and make me commit some excess which
might cause me to be arrested, and driven from the depart-
ment.
I'laycd in the evening. Poor hall, frightful weal'cr,
and not a carriage at anv price if there was one in the
whole town. Sotdiers, soldiers, soldiers, corps de garde!
The city is nothing but a vast corps dc garde. Conquered
country! Oh! the sword!
April 6.
Third concert, not the worst in the world and tolerably
apiilaudod. Patti is evideutlj' the fiivourite here, and I am
not astonished at it ; it is iu>t that he plays better than
usual (we are all too much put out and bewildered in this
corps de garde to play well), but because I never in juy
life played so badly. I am irritated, I feel my heart sAvelling
w^ith indignation at the unjustifiable attack made upon nit,
and the impossibility of justify ingmyscH" from the ]iositi(m
in which I am plact'd renders me miseral)le. To add to it
the stage box is occupied by Captain Clark and Colonel
Giant-lciller, who wished to throw us out of the window.
All ! poor Muse, what business had you in this corps de
garde t
April 7
Superb weather. The ek^ments seem to be appeased m >\\
that we are going away. At eleven o'clock we take tie
steamer whicli is to carry us to Fortress Monroe in an 1 >"ir
and a half. My friend Major Darling waits for me at the
wharf ill an ambulance with eight seats. We have u rived
at the fort. The ditches are one hundred and eigh;^ [eet
iDi
262
NOTES or A PIASIST.
, . f . lorn, The "•arn>oii now numlK'VS three
brcuul and nine feet '^ M'- ^ ^ - ^ thcnsand. The interior
thousand nie.»,< ^'"f^"" "' AVe pas. hofore the quarter-
of the fort is a small tovvn. > c ^^^^^^.^ .^^^^
general inhahited l,v ";;;;;; '^, J n's in a small yellow
t;:g'one hundred and iifty cannons.
1 ..^ ^^^^n ovoni'iO" eoneei't has
4 • 1 o+ P.nltimore, -where tlio e^elu i„
,,,;::^':i::\:i,l Al"ay- the -n,c chamnug l«U,hc.
April 9.
i. .;,-..., l.vT n society of amate.irs
AVas rresoT.t at a ^-^^^^^!\^^^]^lnte the taste
^hoseainiiHto.l^i^alm^toyim^^^^^^ ^
andt<>innnn<>teeha itj,t I e^c > ^^^^^ orchestra and
Sunday, April 10.
.vas at high mass, and ^^^::^i::^:::;;!:t^.
and arrived ^^A'^^^^'^ft'^;^" ?\ 'e tm " f<^r Keadi,>g. The
even stoi. foi dinner, hut took the t u ^ ^^
co.ieert has heen good ^ h^^-^J ;\^, ,,t-my pieees and I
the gas w(>nt ^.f .'^%\^^?^X If I ^vere to judge hy tlie
had to tini^li It in the da t.. ii ^^^^ ^^^^^^^
appla"^'^ "^> 1^^''*^"T' V tL U was to that I owed the
of li<.dit. I like to \""^\f f.^f ;^i;, an amateur, had
^^';. Iv^XSl t fJr' no aid it to the
jS^sSE^oirCi^. WeseKnightsarecou-
KNIGHTS OF THE GOLDEN CIRCLE.
203
A-miml»iT8tlivce
,1. The iutorior
ore tho (luartor-
m liunily. The
u 11 BHiall yellow
:/\w\ There arc
posite the ibrt i^
lilt a fort mount-
April s.
mi'jU; ooufC'i't has
uugpublic.
April 9.
ocicty of amatears
,) olovato the taste
. they give a con-
rhe orchestra and
layAn'y 'Creation'
ves,' and although
'actory.
Sunday, April 10.
nie excellent nuisio.
cva's, was excellent.
was sung most ex-
r.ok in the morning,
M., where I did not
1 for Heading. The
e that I i)layed here
> of my pieces and i
■ere to judge l>y tiie
cr from the absence
s to that I owed the
n, an amateur, had
He did it to the
)rTant role, thanks to
liese Knights arc con-
spirators whoso end was or is ^for I am assured that the
members are very numerous and the chiefs still at liberty)
to resist by force tlu' general government, and to offer peace
to tho South by accc'iiting its conditions. The Ki:ights of
tlu' CJolden Circle availed themselves of the pretext of the
arrival of Fi'deral ofHcers, delegated to preside at the con-
scription, to make a levy of shields. ''] he attempt failed,
through the ad<lrcss of a secret agent of police who became
a member au<l denounced the conspirators.
April 12.
Left for "Williamsport. Pennsylvania is the richest of
the States by reason of its coal-mines. The country ia
mountainous, woody, and intersected b}' brooks and rivers.
AVc crossed on viaducts over many valleys whose depths,
seen from the car door, made me dizzy. 1 have not dined,
and, beginning to led hungry, I succeeded in buying at a
station a herring and some bread. I never ate a herring
Avhich tasted so delicious (hunger was cook). Uehrens
groaned, and made the tears come to our eyes and our
mouths water by jiainting for us a picture of the horroi-s
of hunger and telling us what he would eat were he at
Delmonico's.
Arrive<l at Williamsport at eight o'clock. I had sent a
desi>atch to Strakosch telling of our delay, lie imme-
diately j>nt up bills aimouncing that the concert would not
commence until nine instead of eiglit <^»'clock. My piano
travelled with me in the train. Arrived at half past eight
o'clock at the hotel, toi>k in a hurry a cup of bad tea, ard
away to business. One herring for dinner! nine hours in
the train ! and, in spite of everything, five hundred per-
sona who have paid that }ou may give to them two hours
of poesy, of passion, and of inspiration. I will confess to
you secretly they certainly will be cheated this evening.
204
yOTES OF A PIAMST.
CHAPTER XV.
April 13.
Elmiua. Uoocl concert. A great deal of enthu.iusm. .
Ai>ril 14.
'"'™'^'^''- April W.
AVc Wave for Soranton. Arrive at noon »> Gm^ li™,!
S,„,..tou not kuv.ng until l"^' ,1 ' 4,^^'°;;'' ,„ „,, W«t
Beml i» not cvon a luunlet. ^ /A " » J; ' ," cannoswl of
r"".S '■T;^vl:u::.'rak«a:lut(,,o'. ,....' a ,c,e.
thit^ evening. A kuI r| i**}"-' "' '• , ^ery eonsidorable
desert tor twenty-tonrlKHUj ^^ i.^ |J a ^^ y ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^
pecuniary los., ^V^^^.^^^^^VVTi have t„ pay the expenseB
if the concert bad taken place ^^^^^^^^^ ^^_^^^^.^
Tll^^'St^b^SelT^t'h^tu J plan^ -^ -^l^'r
iiie roaa IS uu. ^i tclcn-apbed to btrako^(n,
After having exanuned the uorizou xj ui^ »
iaL
April 13.
if cntliutiiasin.
April 14.
ontrt to our andi-
( thirty -f'ix inik's
ig. Every pit-'^'O
April 15.
m at Groat Iknd
r(<, tlio train for
■) o'clock. Broad
(Hug to the AVest
i is c(>nil»oscd of
no hero. A tele-
lat tl»e train that
iue, an«l, a bridge
able to get there
' renitiining in this
X very eont^idcrable
s, which opght to
[) pay the expenses
nipany the same as
to Seranton to-day.
lane, and eainiot be
)hed to Strakosch,
aniiniT, that 1 shall
ere iW to give a
the hotel. I make
at lo to be done?
the right and seen
-1 DItUXKKX Hi /SUM AN.
265
dusky mountains, I look to the loft and see there the same
dusky mountains. IJefore me u green an<l gently undulat-
ing plain. The sky is blue. Ilie landlord of "the hotel,
an old white-hairi'd man, is sitting before tiio door caress-
ing a pretty- little girl, who ealls him grandl'atlier. A
drunken Irishman is tolling him how his {'oiupanions of
the mine (wo are in tiio riehest ooal-mining district) wished
to resist the consoi-iption. " When will irishmen and
whiskey cease to be indissolubly connected?" Answer:
AVlien the employes of the Xew ^'ork railroad shall become
jiolitc. When 5lr. ]) — — , of Hoston, shall attain a clear
comprehension of music and shall cease to adore the music
of the future. When my couiitrynu'n shall walk on tiptoe
in a concert room. When hack-drivers shall he governed
by a taritf which shall prevent them from cheating travel-
lers, and from insulting them if they timidly protest against
this delicate o[ieratiou.
In the telegraph office I found two other travellers, com-
]ianions of ciiiuti, and we entered into conversation. One
of them I found to be Mr. Catliii, the brother of the
historiographical In<Uan j)a;nter who visited I'aris some
twenty years ago. I called to mind that Catlin then ob-
tained very great success from curiosity ! thanks to the
novelty of his subject which he had treated (with a very
inexperienced pencil). Theophile Gautier even devoted to
him a long art critique. *SVt' (ni)isif (jloria miDnll ! AVliat
has become of Mr. Catlin, and where are all his jiainted
warrioi-s? After having ramldcd all over I'aris, perhaps
they have returned to their own country, at the bottom of
some valley in the Far West, where of an evoiung they
till their wigwam with the recital of the marvellous child-
ishness and indecent vivacity of the pale-faces upon the
other side of the great salt lake.
The electric apparatus it ap])ears is getting impatient,
for five minutes it has not ceased working. The operator
announces to me that Strakosch is at the te'.egraph at
Seranton and wishes to sjvak to me.
(Convei'sation, one hundred mile «'j)art.)
" Dress for the concert. The inspector of the line will
dispatch a special train which will arrive at Great Bend at
23
r
200
NOTES OF A /'M.V/>r.
\.
at S-mnton, ,..t into tlu- :^^-^^^^^^^^^::;i^''^ r}^ J^.
i^^alu-k I t<.ok .mJa lad ,great need of it) at the excel-
lent hotel, ' Wyoming House.
April 10.
ronccrt at Wn^lmmton. Very, small but cWii^g
although that of last year was crowded.
Sunday, April 17.
Arrived after twelve houi-s of railroad at ^'']\}'!!']^'
jj^.. ^^^T'-l^SK ^ "' M^iel^ 'i^
the eighteenth of April M^ ti^m > ^^^^
Faust' for four pianos. O pianists, \\ no cm ^
Kewbu.;g presents a \^^> rY\t} co ,^^ ^^^^ ^.^^^
Tionses halt ooneealod o> vcniuic f"^^'" + ,, ,.:ii.io-(> in
•li
II..
NF.WlifRd.
2r.7
o'cl(H'k,\vlion a
take you t'» tl'^'
nro iva«ly."
10 o'clock I NVii>*
.(1 llu- hall and
.lie. Tla' iiutU-
l>y a toU'iiirapliK'.
at n Htat\oii ami
the overture of
,.(l. At clfVfU
f it) at the cxt-c-l-
Aprll 10.
1 but channuit,'
it was) will leave
:hat of last year,
Sunday, April 17.
(I at New York.
t three oV-loek on
' my ' Mareiie de
Mitt'l- into the iiro-
They arc never
iii^ that 13 given
(1 if re( [nested to
> they stick in the
trieate yourself as
•ill be held respon-
w it hai>pens that
it Newhurg. The
irg is on tlie oytpo-
istimoe the town of
, d\ril; its white
1 to seale the side
of a toy village in
Tlie Iludsou seen
from the liciglits of Ihe Icwn rolls on majestically, and the_
8ettinir snn at tliis moment ih emiiuriiling the village of
Fishk'ill.
l)o not trust to apiK-arances. Ni'wburg, so ]icaccfnl, was
hist year the theatre of a I'rightfnl tragedy, who^^t* details
will atlVight yon. An nnl'or.nnate negro, accused of hiiv-
ingviolat»'d an Irish girl, was Iviiched and exe<nted Iiy the
]teople. {Some miserahle wretenes throngh their hatred for
the negroei excited the jieo|ile. They broke o|i(ii the
doors o^' ' on in whicli the negro was incai'cerati d
awaitiiiL -is inal. In vain a eoiirageons Irish priest (the
most inveterate enemies of the blacks in the lUited States
are the Irish) endeavoured to appease tlani; these madmen
seized the nid'ortnnate Itlack, drew him into the prison
yard, nnitilated him, and then brokt' his skull with a liam-
mer. They dragged out his dead body l»y the heels
and hung it luad dowiwards. AVluit aims still mori> to
the horror of the erinu' is, that a few days alterwards it
was disiovered that the negro was innocent.
Not eighty jtersons at the concert. Pretext, that, the
coneert having been repeatedly announced, and not having
taken place, the i»nbru; was not willing to be disa[ipointc(l
again. There is no reason to give for it. There are no
good or bad days. There is only a public willing or not
willing to go to a concert.
1 knew a town in France where a concert never suc-
ceeded, and it was always a source of annisemeiit to see
the ingenuity with whicli the inhabitants found an excuse
for it." Sonu'times it was that one of tlu' most intlnential
famili<'s had just lost its chief mi'inler. Sometimes a lady
who was just d\ing. Sometimes it was too late in the sea-
son, somi'times too early.
My iiiano is in the hall, they have not had time to erect
a jil'att'orm. I am surrounded hy a balustrade which
entirely conceals me from public view, my head only is
above "it, and I figure to myself the very amusing ettect
this head must have.
It may he said undouhtedly tliat the audience is enthu-
siastic. Axiom: the enthusiasm of the audience is always
iu the inverse ratio of the receipts. If the latter are very
268
yOTES OF \ riAMST.
.1 I ... ... U .nviit It' it IK i.rotitaMf the lUuU-
:;:J;:'i:^;.i.i. (^'v^'^;'':■r^:;:•lt;t'^;^''..;.• -
tlu. artist^ ^^''''J"' ,, ''S,M 11.;. ..mlial .-vplion
'7 • Y'[h V iiv^l. I 'What Lsoncm ho given ibr
? \Vh Httuit tlio puhlw <h>oH n..t appla.HUvhn
is; iv J ; .. .bo^«ii..u. i-.n.l.'io of .ncn lor tW «;•-
.« „ that tl.c fox found the ,'ra,^s t™, ™m Ok t ; ,^
a,.l„„-! what «.nr gra)... -tj;™'"!;";'; f^VJ .Hh li m
,„a..an^tho,u,eh-c^toh ™W^^^^^^^^^
i
.titalilo tlio au(U-
iiiiuily';
ho loiiu- to oiir
te Hyiiii'iitliy •'<"'
H'liclu'r*, mill «'IV-
(mlial r><v|.(i«»ii
can 1k« jrivi'ii lor
kvlu'M tlu II' it* II
(»t uiniliiiKl wliiu
It' aHtoi\i!'lK'tl iiiid
iTU'daloiiiLr l»y the
l(.iii;;irniiiiiiivii<lo
uuk'd on afcoiuit
II lKT<Tati <le i^<'»
i^'ination of tlio
to I'nibnt'uU-r, for
hoy arc listening,
hini;; i'l>*t! in music
ijit'd to u;ivc thcin
I'thcy then buiUl
hat wht-n it hua
(U'l- another name,
liuv.
I met IV lUoonier.
•t founded hy Mrs.
•itrlits. We have
ire Unitetl States.
•t their rijrlits. I
,vho is young and
% gcen are iierteet
who wisli to free
men for the same
too 8onr. Oh, this
My lellow count ry-
isten to tlieir own
lic-h at ii distance
nd tlie Democrats,
iiropean aristocracy
!s, colonels, generals
posers, who dis(laiu
, and the musicians
O*, fta*^^fl5?"'' "
**u
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23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
.*
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CIHM/ICMH
Microfiche
Series.
CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.
Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductlons historiques
,*.
»:L. ' »,tn -i i ii;- u; i J-l i I'l L i .n ■ !■ j i .L.l ',J i i « MkMi ! _'« i ' !
CHOPIN BECOME CLAS.^ICAL.
2G9
of tlie future wlio liavo a liorror of limpid int'lodics- — sour
grapes! And the horrible demoralization of Kuropcan
society, thankw to which you cannot find among twenty
married women a faithful wife (tliis was said to me by a
vii'tuoiirt Ameriean, who loved her husband moderately)
■ — sour grapes!
Since Liszt has given the word of eonmiand to the
Germans, C'liopin has all at once become classical. His
forms, which before they treated, without understanding
them, as Avhimsical, his harmonies, so worke<l up, have
become so many perfect modi'ls. I do not complain for
my part, having been one of the old Chopinists, l)ut what
I deplore is the frightful abuse which is made of Chopin's
formulas. There is not a small ]iianist comjioser who does
not think himself called u[ion to make Chopin mazourkas,
Chopin nocturnes, Chopin polonaises — it has become an
e])i(lemie in the United States. They have become masters
of Chopin's processes, and employ them without discern-
ment in the most trivial melodies. This recalls to me
Madame F., who composed music after Ilaydn.
SciiEXKCTADV, April 10.
Detestable concert, hardly seventy-five i)ersons, who
applauded at random with a free and easy frankness which
was very amusing.
April 20.
Left for Troy, where I have had a very poor concert.
AVhy should I be so popular in certain towns, and not at
all in others?
Thuividay. I started for Xew York at five o'clock in the
morning. Concert in the evening at the Academy of
Music, TJrooklyn — sujierb audience. A young lady am?,-
teur, full of pretensions, like all amateurs, after insisting
upon being 2»!aeed upon the posters refused to play when
her turn came, on the pretext that she could only play
upon her Steinway. I played in her ])lace, and all my
pieces wore encored. Steinway and Chickering, Guelphs
and Ghibellines of the musicians, are divided into two fac-
tions — the Germans are for Steinway.
23*
270
NOTES OF A riAMST.
April 22.
Sot out at tlirco o'clock from ITow York for roiitrlikiriisie
— clianiniii:; iilace and clianniiig coiu'crt. One ('i' tlio
iiaiicrs for ''the fiiudr of ' Hoimiainbula' has put Meiiiak'.
TIi'h liriii"-s to inv Diind a protrranniu' ]iriiito(l at IJordoaiix
ill whiciri playc'd the ' nauanu-r' and tlie 'Savaiio' wh'u-li
was printed the 'Savaiiier' anil tho 'Baiiauo.'
I'oiiirlikoopsio has several laru;e hoarding-schools lor
yonii<'-ladies and one or two larg-e colleges. One of tlu'iii,
'CoUetjo Hill,' is situated on a hill which overlooks the
towii.'^ From the coUeire porch (whose architecture almost
resembles that of a temple of Diaiui) we see the CatskiU
]\louiitains, and the Hudson rolling on in all its majesty.
This CoUeii-e Hill was onlv three or four years ago a simple
hoanling-school. Its proprietor sold it, not heing able to
make his expenses. His successor, an intelligent ^ ankee,
eommciu'ed hv studving the manners of the town, and
found out tlia't it was aristocratic hut slow. Innovations
are there like exotic plants planted in the oj.en air, they
wither and die. A hoarding-school under the name ot
academv had onlv had up to that time a moderate sueecss;
he baptized it wUh the name of t'ollege, introduced new
branches of instruction, a military uniform, and behold,
Koon a transformation took place, impils llowed in trom
all (luurters, and College Hill became what it now is.
April 23.
Left ronghkeepsie at ton o'clock. We arrive at Ku^tland
at half past four P. M., stojiiiing ten minutes at Tr()y.
r)ehreiis, whose appetite increases with the fatigues ot the
journey, rushes into the butt'et, but the bill ot tare (ndy
offers \ea and eold pies. Ueh reus, who is a philosopher,
consoles himself bv making puns, that grow worse and
worse, whieh, to spare his self-esteem, I plaee to the account
of his gastronomic disappointment.
Conwrt at Rutland very tine. The young girls oi the
town have asked me to play ' Last Hope.'
April 24.
Rimerh weather. The mountains, from which the State
takes its name (Vermont), undulating in the suii. ^ear
VERMOyr MARliLK QTWRRIF.S.
271
April 22.
rrou<rlikt.r]isie
One ci' the
i put ' leinak'l'
L'd at rxirdeaiix
'Savaiie' wliirli
linji'-scliools for
()iie of tlieiii,
1 overlooks the
liiteeture ahiiost
see tlie Catskill
all its ma'n'sty.
[irs ago a simple
)t heiiiir al)le to
.'lligeiit '^'ankee,
the town, and
iv. Innovations
e oi)on air, they
er the name of
loderate success;
, inti'oduced u'-'AV
mi, and hehold,
s Hovved in from
t it now is.
April 23.
irrivo at Rutland
linutes at Troy.
? fatigues of the
hill of fare only
is a philosopher,
grow woise and
ice to the account
5ung girls of the
April 24.
1 which the State
1 the sun. Xoar
i\\(' village are the ceU'hrated marhle-quarries, known under
the name of the ^vutland (^larries.' The white marhle is
so alinndajit here that we notice white niarlde pavements,
ini'losure walls, hrims of wells, and mile-stones on the
road, of the same mat('rial. We have taken a carriage riile
to see the ([Uarries. The worknu'ii have, like all Xortlicrn
workmen, struck for an incri'as(- of wages, ])roportinnc(l to
the progressive advance in price of all articles of prime
necessity at the Xorth.
Tlie country is s[(lendid. A waterfall rushes^ over, and,
its spray sifting the sim's rays, forms a true rainl)ow. A
fertile vallev spreads out hefore us, whose emerald hue
alternates with the deep Idueof a little stream which winds
along slowly at random.
Tiie dark mountains 0!i tlie horizon still preserve at
their summit the snows of winter, lichind us thi' village
of Rutland with its live or six steeples j.iercing the l»luc
sky, the (piarries of white marhle, the blocks of which,
already detached, sjiarkle like diamonds in the sun, and
all around us the green fields of Vermont, which, with the
cloudless sky, form a picture that I ilo not know Ikjw to
descrilie.
Uehreiis has ha<l the unlucky idea of hiring a hnggv,
and, as he knows no more how to drive a horse than I
know how to conciliate the goodwill of Mr. D , tin-
result is that he found himself in too direct contact with
another carriage. His has come out of tlw encounter with
a slight scar, which the hirer of the carriage has generously
estimated at twenty-iive dollars. T douht if the country ()f
Vermont will leave as agreeable an impression ujion him
as ui)on myself.
Ik'hrens was awakened this morning hy the slu'ritl", who
had heeii sent to him by the liirer of carriages, as Relireiis
liad neglected to i)ay the twenty-five dollars. The affair is
settled^ l)ut Behreiis looks ratlier sheepish, lb' makes up
for his discomfiture this niorinng by redoubling his ajipe-
tite and emphasizing his puns more than usual. Stand
from under! We leave in two hours for JJurliiigton, where
I give a concert this evening.
Arrived at the hotel \n Burlington, we diseovered that
Carlo Patti was missing. Max returned to the station,
272
yOTKS OF A PIAMST.
, . .1 IP i,.,lf nn hour WO siiw Carlo coming, fol-
ivu.l at 1,0 on.l of \'^';."'\,. :;',,.,;„. ,lown liko a rotVa.-
us as so.)U a^ nno " •^''^, ' "\;.' \,.^,,.^ foroed to do our bost,
.vith attontiou. 1 csult \\ ^,^0,1 who c-oiuplah, of
tVolh.u; oursolvp. at ease O 1 n he • )o .^ 1.^^
the coMnoss ';* -^^!^^^ :^;^^,*^;l i/^^tt^ the luunonr
own in(.httorou<o \\';,";\\; « ..^ja, .listraoted, inditferont,
;;;i^H::!::;;run;rc^l;t^^;iist, v^^^
boc.ome wana, an<l "-l'^'"';^ ^''"jy/'.Jr .Struck tVon> ^
:l;;^!s;:'t^;^r\r.^^:i:i be 0^^^^ amidst ti.
• ^l^dent impatu-noe of thc.e wd,o l^-';^--_ ,,0
morning attoi »/;'"^^i'^- , . ■ "_whon the audionco
one had encored t
April 26.
I .ot out in a fow moments for rlattsbnrg, on the otter
,We 'of tl,e lake .^V",?" ,"' " S^Tte- slll.onette. of the
„,.li;:;:2"v.'S:"m.™na i.":;-rre«eete,> ,,v U in gram,
a hook o prove t^f^^'^'/VhoBihle itself. Poor Bible I
draws his arguments from ^1^^ ^!^^';;;^^^ f^.,, iutorprota-
Onc of t^,e grcnvt ^^^l^;^^,^^;^; ,;^,tan<l it, is that
tion of the r>d.le, a. ^ 'AWw mtovor he wishes aeeonling
every one can make it ^'^^l^;;; ^^^ ^ IVunsvlvania proves
to his v.re udioes. Bishop i ottci, 01 •^^■"'h,, ,, i,- i' „, of
! i>;.1n tb-it slavery s abominable. iUe iMMiop/'i
bv the i)ible tliat si.n t_ij ^l.,vorv is a divine
!l;f tS'XlSVr'rua^tttrBi'uo i,i tte .,ana. of
Ill MAX HYPOCRISY.
273
arlo coming, fol-
,\vii liko A ri'tViU'-
s loatlniji biK'k Xo
inorfiicc', nnd did
! train froiinvlKTO
pcrwivod bis iiiis-
raniily api'landod
uid listened to tin
cd to do our best,
1 wbo coriiplain of
»s(in lor it in \our
etiocts tbc bumonr
raotod, bidittbront,
ly 1)0 sure, will not
bim. Tbis spark,
? struck from bim
uisbod amidst tbo
and vawn.
n a small town tbo
been kind, and bas
-Avbcn tbc audience
,eat tbat wbieb no
April 2G.
sburg, on tbe otber
lie silbouettes of tbc
ictcd by it in grand
1, lias just puldisbed
s-ine institution, and
itself. Poor Diblo !
1 tbe free interprcta-
mderstand it, is tbat
be wisbes according
rennsvlvania ;)rorc.s
ble. tbo Bisbop of
slavery is a divine
Bible iu tbc bands of
tlieso gentlemen proves notbiiig unless it be tbat we bave
an odd spirit, itnd tbat tbe mo^t ab>urd and odious doc-
trines Hnd always sonietbing to sustain tliem.
("bildren,young girls, constantly read tlie ( )ld Testament,
not expurgated boly bistory, but tbe Bible, sucb as it is in
tbe original, witb its crudities of language, its coiicujiiscent
images, its coarsi'iiess, its monstrous corruptions, ("bildren
do not see in it nuicb to interest tbem, but young girls feed
on it constantly, and nevertbeless tliey jtreservo (or pretend
to preserve) tbe jiurity of tbeir imagmation.
Tliese same maidens wbo remain in;passable in reading
tbe Canticle of Canticles or tbo bistory of Lot, are trouhletl
at tbe word pn»l(il<i(i», blusbing to tbe ears if \()U jiro-
nounce tbc word /lys, and look u)ioii you as ill-bred wbeii,
iiKpiiring of you news of your motber, you tell tbem tbat
sbe bas given you a little brotlur. Fii", tlu'ii! "N'ou may
say tbat sbe bad a bad beadacbc. It is tbe only illness ad-
nutted 111 society. I'uritanic anatomy only recogni/es tbo
feet and tbe bea<l, and in some cases tbe arms, but notbing
aI)ove tbeelltow. AVliat is most deligbtful is tbat t bey un-
derstand very well, notwitbstanding all tbis.
!So if you wisb to say tbat a danscuse bas pretty legs,
3'ou say, sbe bas cbarming ankles. You wisb to say tbat
your wife is brougbt to bed, you say tbat sbe is obliged to
keej) ber cbamber for some time. Tliese expressions are
consecrated and express absolutely tbe same tiling. Ob,
buman by[iocrisy ! You easily accommodate yourself to
tliese little subterfuges.
Tbe journey across tbc lake is cbarming. IMattsburg,
■wbere we are going, bas only four or five tbousand iuliabit-
ants; A speculator in tbe village bas engaged us for a
concert for tbree bundred and twenty dollars. A traveller
bas just assured mc tbat every place is taken, and tbat tluy
come from twenty-live miles around to l)e jiresent at tins
grand tete. A concert like ours is a real revolution for a
village.
Arrived at Plattsbui-g at one P. Af. Excellent botel
Fouguet, situated on tbe edge of a blurt" wbieb overlooks
Lake Cbamplain. Tbis lake freezes in winter ; tbcy tben
use boats on runners, spread tbeir sails and are carried by
tbe wind. I am told tbat tbis kind of travellin'j is as
274
NOTJ'.S or A I'lAMST.
• 1 u w ..frnM.'il.U- tho rate- hv\wi at an avoraiio, when
"; ;; ; . . atan ".„„.„) ii.' «oii »,naii -'i'^-;;;':;^-
t\\(.Mliui> V ,M,..' fthcni hart Kuch iviaarKiilMN Milan
the Lualh'oss of the ieot among the Indians i. one ot the
traits of then- race.
Montreal.
Patti, who went to take a walk, has already ^^^^^ some
I V si ed to sneak coneennn.ti the attack of wueh lie has
L^/1^^ahiiet in apaper/respec-tin. h,sso,mr,wn^ h^
J^oalh and of his service n. ^^^:;^^J^^^,Z
has 1)econie a sort of hero. At ^t. ^^'"^^^'^Y'^'' , ,•
S "«^o; 'l hin, Sv,.uti„, ln,n on ,ns ,,oim.
1
''Tiir. roysTiTCTios .i>' //' iim.s-."
m
w iivcmire, wlit'ii
iiiilo ovfry tlirc-o
• crowdi'il iinil a
vi> to iitlinii tliiit
jy iqiplaiKU'tl.
)f April. L iK-r-
1)V till' inisiM'iiUlo
flio milwiiy c-iU-H
. I just hoiinl a
ut Frriifh ao't'iit
(' with which tho
Parisian i)r«»nun-
|.us), iinswcr.-* my
(■tor. The train
ok'iu'V which ap-
. \\*c stop ovory
lOur. Arrivoil at
loe, wo omhark on
•y us to thc! other
'stcanior I notice
ill articles worked
1 ivniarkahly small
,-c'ry OIK', arthou.tih
(Uans is one of the
Montreal.
already mot some
tiainsaid. Thanks
t Bnitalo has made
k of wliieh lie has
his sojourn in the
lerato armyV I'attl
is, whore Unionism
,nded to the skies
ho found imknown
i him on his politi-
')f Freemasonry eon-
inations are ha]ipily
I ruin of the North,
and in makinu; sterile vows for tlu' trinin|ih of the Sonth.
1 know nothint,' more odions than this kind of hylirid
patriot, who with arms crossed, protests his devotion to the
Kcpnhlic and remainjjneiiter,(X<vpt when l»y his clamours he
endeavours ro fetter the efforts oft he i;-ovcrnnient. 1 admire
and resiu'ct those of the South who tiiiht and saeritieo
themselves for what tlicy thiid< a Just cause. 1 do not par-
ticii)ate in their convictions, hut 1 have only contempt lor
tlu-se i)i>lit!<'(iMn:'^ of the North who wish peace at any
price, without thinkini-' that the plasterinj;' up a few cracks
is of no use when the foundation of tln' t'difice is Lrivmir
wav, and that in the social no more than in the individnal
hody an eatinu; wound does not cease its rava«res hecanse it
is concealed under an anodyne plaster.
"The Constitution as it was"— such is their cry. I'ools
that you arel the Constitution is a chimera, and the venera-
tion which von have for the hroki'ii pact is at least uijsea-
sonahle. Tlu^ Constitution to-day has hecome imi)ossihle.
It would be as iinreasonahle as to reiiuire that a iiian_ should
always wear the clothes of his lioyliood, and have his limlis
shortened in onU'r to accommodate them to his clothes,
now hecome too small, rather than enlar<;e them in propor-
tion to his u;rowth.
Behrens,\vho is the best fellow in the world, and whose
linmoiir is of a (piality that has heeii aide to resist the
melancholv hirtnonce of'the piano (I say melancholy, hecanse
I have reiiiarked that those who make a trade of a thiii^
are >!;enerally those who use it the least; witness the distil-
lers, who har*llvever drink spirits, and the disciples of har-
iiKMiv who are never able to establish it amon.<>; themselves),
Hehreiis, I say, after my i)arenthesis, has become morose
for the last two or three days. The had cheer has taken
etfeet upon his placid and benevolent ora-anization. This
enters into the theorv of one of my frieixls, a mad material-
ist, who protends that the celebrated elegiacs, poets, and
musicians were onlv so, because they had a bad stomach,
and that a few pills discreetly and opportuiu'ly swallowi'd
.would have relieved them. "Let us rejoice that tluw were
not like mv friend. For my part, 1 have always believed
that the artist was a victim, fatally destined in spite of him-
276
NOTES OF A rM.V/>T.
1
srlf to 1.0 nil iMstnum>nt throujil. whi.l.l'rovi.loiico l.ivatlu'^
oil till- world irrtnin i-xi.ivssioiis, rortam kU'iis
In Alsa.v thfV srooj. tlii' eyes out ot .lucks un.l li^vsc.,
ivn.l susiK-ua tlu'ni l.y the fivt, lu-a-l .lownwanls. ii this
nositiou, !mt littk" lavounil.k" to di.uvstiou, tlicy lor<l tlu'iii
.Irnti'ou-^lv. Tlu- liviT inid.'r this ivtiiiuo hfcMucs lat,anil
It is iVoiu Uii'so livers that tlu' famous i^Vrs ,lr Ju,r t/rx.ywa
miulo. Thus, artirttrt who havo tU'Vi-r done .tiii'at thiu.u's,
hut when thi'V wfiv dviuL!; of hunsii-r, or wciv consuiuptivc,
,„. amorous, .".r witlmut hopr, seem t.. lui' t.. ho thu .ticvso and
the ducks whioh lV.vi<lciicc has coudcnuic<I to tlic costly
priviloa" of cxhaliuiT, at the la-ice of their cxistnicc, har-
iMoiiious thouiihts whii'h the /-.///.s- vivants ot mmd ti.<to
tniiKiuillv at tlio haii«|uct of life.
A tnuV' to poor jokes. Art is too vure, its soun-e too
elevated, its eniovuu'iits too retiued, its iunueucc too n.-hk",
its essence, in one Nv..rd, to., divii... f..r me t.; partwipate m
the .rastroiiomi.'al hericfs of my skeptical trien.l. Ait is
the ank'ut aspiration f..r the heautifuK It is y,.luptu..us.
ness suhlime.1 hv the spirit; it. is an irivsistihk' transpoit
Avhi.-h makes lis hurst the h..nds ot nuit.;rial space, thn.ugh
the i.k'al, an.l transp.)rts us to the celestial spheres.
This l.-n.-- di.--ressi..n into whi.-h T have heeii .Irawn, has
Beparate.1 mo iV..m Ik-hrens, an.l fr..m_ the mtluen.-e ..ver
him of the eternal 'ham an.l eo-s, this retu-.- .. tav.'rn-
keepcrs taken at unawares, an.l that punishment t.> which
our .lis..r.lerly life .•on.lemns us. As he who looks d..wn-
wanls at a a.untry k.ses all i.lea ot its pertection, s.. the
st..machs..f a vatjah.^nd comi.any k.se all n..tions ..t a regu-
lar ai.petite whi.-h well hrouo-ht-u|. stoma.-hs <.u.<iht to lave.
AVe dine sometimes at eleven o.-l...-k at nm-ht, sonu-tinu-s
at n.K.n. Sometimes hreakfast prc-.-ch-s the .Imn.-r a halt
hour,an.l s..metinies it is reparate.l fn^m it hy tw.. hun.lre.l
miles of railway. After this, d.. y,.u w..nder that n.y ......I
Mr B., wh.., hec-ause he has an ex.-elk-nt st..ma.-h, is n..t ..t
an ele-iae nature, has heeome sa.l for the last three or t..iir
davs from our feasting at ahsunl hours on ham an.l eg^'s
and stale saii.hviehes! Fortunately the ^t Lawrence Ih-te
has an excellent tahle, and J?ehr.,-ns, who has ina.le to-.lav
three festivals of Helsha/.zar, feels in a merry hui«'onr, an.l
lets Hy at me, when 1 least expect it, a broadside oi puns
of high Germanic tiavour.
J
1
mi: LM,Li:iU vmcLim,
m
V uk'ncc' luvatln's
L'ilS.
lucks am', jit't-si",
wards. In this
they fi't'fl tliciu
biHoiiR's lilt, ami
',s' tlifdif (jnis aro
me ji-ri'at tliiii,t:s,
iTc coiisuiniitivo,
> be tliu licvse ami
iifd to till' (M.stly
ir cxistfiKV, liar-
',v ot' iiiiml ti.'to
ire, its sonrir too
tlm-mT too iioliK',
.« to iiartii'lpati' in
il tVicnd. Art is
It is voluptuous-
csistilih' transport
•ial siiaci', tliroiii>;li
ll SplKTOS.
(.> lu'i'n drawn, lias
lio inHiunco over
irfuirc of tavcrn-
lishnR'iit to wliicli
who looks down-
pfrii'ction, so tho
notions of a irg-u-
rhs ought to have.
t niii'ht, souietiiues
the diumT a half
it hy two Innulred
nder that my _i!;ooil
r stoniai'h, is not of
e last three or four
s on ham and eu-gs
St. Lawrenee Hotel
lo has made to-day
nerry humour, and
. broadside of puns
CTTAI'TKR XVT.
T AM batk from the eoncert. The rain, whi.h has not
ceased fallinir since this morninu', increased towiird eitdit
(.■<'lock, which evidentiv onu'lit' to have diminished the
iv.-cipts. Tlie hall nev'erthe'less was well fdled. inid the
ladies, elcLTantlv dressed, productd a lieautiful etfect as
wen fr<.ni'~the stage. The parterre is jreiu-rally oeetipiud
1)V those who care less for b.-ing seen than for listdiinir to
the musii'. They applamled with enthusiasm, and listened
with an attention which sinirula 'y contrasted with the
noise made by some eUgaiit Knglish otHci'rs, who wwo
determined to' attract attention to their bli.nde whiskers,
their convex chests, and their white gloves, which they
held at a foot's distance outside of the box. Their conver-
sation, whi<'h with noble condescension they made in a loud
voice in onler to permit the whole hall to enjoy tlieir high-
flown humour, was disngrceably interrupted from time to
time by my piano, which 1 willingly would havi> taken
iiway fiom"^the programme, these genth'Uien replacing me
in a very advantageous manner, if I had not thought that,
perhaps', the imblic, accustomed as it must bo to them,
would have mieh preferred me.
1 know nothing more ill bred than a fashionable English-
man, unless it be /(/-o fashionable Knglishmcn.
In the box in (piestion there were three, and they
worthily austained their reputation.
April 28.
Tliursday evening. Second concert. As much as I had
plaved without pleasure the other evening, so much I have
excelled myself to-day. All my pieces have been encored.
I lea\e to-niorrow for Ogdensburg.
April 29.
Set out from ^fontreal at seven o clock. In the car.
Carlo Patti— '• Sunshine Patti,' as I call him, on account of
24
i
278
yoTi:s III' A /'/ 1 \/>'r.
tl..' llilpl'V tll..UirlltllWlU«SS nf hi. rluinirtrr luis llliiai< 11
cuiKnirsl." A vouiiir im.l pretty \\..iiiiiii imh.Ic ii.lvuiP ■ s to
l.iiii. i.n.l th.y i.iv'talkiii.j: touvtlicf. Mh' whs at llu- .•oii-
fi'fl lii-t iii'.'lit. .111 11
A Scidlitz i.()\v(lrr(.rt\vn(lni-liiiis<.l iliuhiiil. sfiis..n:iMy
„.liuini>tiTc<l.im«l I'.'tniivli 1kv..iiu's a I'.urra.K., I.ainaitmc
„ l-,,ul .1.. Kn.k,aiMl Mf. D- - iiii,i:l>t iKv.-iMr an a. ma .1..
man Wliat a lu^aiitirul tliint' lu.Mli.inr is. ami la.w imiI.t-
l.liialo it is lliat I have l.ul the ivripe Id' ih.-se i.iarvelU.llH
pills.
Art'iveat Pivscott, a small Caiia.lian villa.i:.' on the U'l't
haiii< ..f the St. Lawivi.r... Opposite to it, Uo'dcMislau- oi.
Ihe Auu'i-wau shoiv, s.vms t.. rise nut ol t le water I ..'
waves (.f tliis maiesti.' river roll slowly a ..n-r. I la- s m
makes them sparkle like myria.ls o! little pearls. Wo
eross ill a lerry hoat. O-densl.urir isa lar^'e town, very
rieh on ueeouiif of its jroojiiai.hieal position.
Seven or ei-'ht v.'ars a-o I irave a e<.iieert here m •'•mh-
„imv with Maaaiiide l.auranuv. 1 n^niemher that at that
tiiiro I roeeivt-a a i-erfnuu'.! Lillet, in very small wTitin-, m
which soinc! one invit.'d me to come to the town ot - ty
take luneh.' The name was unknown to me. M-vei-tlieless i
aeeei.ted. The house was eoneeale.l in the midst ol a slia.ly
park, surroun.le.1 l.v hi-h walls, thus .lefym- the eiiriosity
or the iiidisereet. No noise from outside eou d distiirh
the
cmiet of this mvsterh.us ah.ule. I should lave t hot. -lit
mvself in the interior of a eonvent, it an (.Id servant lual
n.'.t eome to receive mc to tell me that his mistress wished ine
to wait for her in the e..nservat.lry adjoining the drawing-
room. The residi^nee was sumptuous 1 reiieh i'l''>l"'S
I'arisian enirraviims, and u crowd of those eh\!fi>ut little
tritles and siipertluities which are found only m treiicn
palons, and which the morose and traditional taste ot the
An.do-Saxons excludes from their parlours at (Mi.r tol.l
me'that the mistress of the house was or had heeii pretty,
that she had taste, and ivirrt'tted I'aris.
The mistress of the enchaiite.l house soon entered. Mio
was a woman from forty to forty-tivi- years old, who must
have heen very prettv. She told me her name; and that
A Mm jr. \ Vl'srrrf/.
279
I'l" — has iiimli' a
inlc llllvilh' rs to
Wlis lit llu- I'Oll-
i1)iirli si'iisdiiiiMy
ciuio, l.iuiuiriiin'
c'oiiu' an aiiiiiiliK'
. mill liow mit'or-
tlio>t' luarvi'lloiirt
illiiLTi' rui tlu' Ici't
, ( )i;(U'llsl>ltl\Lr. on
llu' water. The
Sllnllir. 'I'Ih' i^llll
nil' jifiirls. We
liir^'e town, very
1)11.
rvH hvw ill "'"'iii-
lulH-r tliat at tliat
small w ritiiiir, in
■ town of 'to
C. NeVlTtlll'K'HS, I.
• niiilst of a sliady
yiiiii' tlu' curiosity
coiiltl distiirl) llie
iild have tliouirlit
n olil servant lia<l
iiistress wished me
niiiii; till' drawinu;-
Fri'iieh alliums,
liose eleiraiit little
1(1 only in Freiieh
tional taste of the
lours, at (Mice told
)r ha<l heeii pretty,
soon entered. Pho
■ars old, who must
ur name; and that
eelehrated iiamo tlieii rivalled to m.- an infantil.' inmression
which had cii./ravcd on my iiu'inory tlu- coiitii>cd imau;e
of a >i.lciidid voiinu^ uirl ol" |iiilc complexion, siiperh form,
and a wealth "of nndnlatinu: 'l'"!! hair, whom I saw one
eveninir, <»n tlu' halcony of the St. I.oiii.. Ilotd at New-
Orleans, sahitinir, with 'the itestiire of n 'iu.mi. the crowd
assemi.lcd to see luT. A hla<-k velvet I mic hoMiy slant in-r
on the r.honldi'rs caused to he aM'ivciateil the adiiiiraUe
niriiatioii of a hosoiii too sli-htly coinralcd. i)oiihtlesrt
coiintiiiii' more ni.oii the Icvi'imate heanty of her .haniH
than on that of her l.l•eten^iolls, she came to .'lainu as
L'raiiddaniihtcr of Vesi.uccius, a dowry lVom the American
people. C'on-;'re>s. whil>t comimsed of men who were indi-
vidnallv capahle of admirinii' the charms of thi> heaiitilul
(Jenoese, jitdjrt''! ''' /'/-./-^.s' (and I eoiiirratiilate theiii oi. it)
to send hack to the conntrv wheiv they hnil.l .-astles in tho
air the claims of tlie (h's.'i'iidant of the c-,,dfather ol oiir
eoniilrv. The lu'aiitifnl adventuress was much pitied,
mn.h 'loved hv the men, nnich hated hy thi> women (the
one is the con-c(iiience of the other), pa.-seil throiiuh every
phase of ceh.l.ritv, that is to say. that the former placed
licr upon a pedestal, and the latter tried to upset it inlothe
mini. Like the stars, she had her zenith, and hei; wttin«r,
and she was noon foru^ottcii. Aincriea Vespucci, tossed
durinu' twenty years hy the eliaiices of fortune, hecame
stranded soiiie\ears since on tho hanks of th»" St, Lawrence,
whciv an old'inillionaire otfered to her. under colour ot
iiidenmitv, 1 HupiMise, for the injustice of the leirislators
of his country, tlie sovi'reijrnity of the mairniticeiit mansion
where she coiu'calcd herself.
She ma<le me visit the park, the aviary, the lihrary, tho
marhle haths. \ was da/.zled with all the splendours of this
little Kdeii, hidden like a nest in the mos:^ "Paris, she
said to me si.yhing, -Paris '.—without my fortune aial
tweiitv veal's less!"
'Phe poor Vecluse irave mo to i.eih-rstaiid that the Jionest
()oiU'iishiiri;-ers did 'not treat her with respeef. Envious
of her taste, lier travels, her fortune, and her power (.ver
a ri.-li old fellow, wliom, witliout any donht, the jirovident
mothers destined '//( 7W/0' to tho honour of heins; their
Bon-iii-law, and antriy that a stranger had dared to mo-
1
280
NOTES OF A PI A MS T.
nopolizo all ih\i^ fortuno, and that, by troaduig iiii.Ut Oot
all the laws of that dead morality which vc aiy all so
liai.i.v to invoke when wo are not ahlc to ernsh those
whitm we <lo n..t love— the honest ].eoi.le of ([.unloLshnrs;
had raised little hy little an.nnd her one of tlvwe n.snr-
mountahle walls made np of hativd,.iiulonsy and ..t seeivt
maliee eemented hv that sour virtue ot small towns. ^ u^
never went out, saw nobody, and wqit al.me under tl.e
heautiful trees of her park, whilst the birds warbled on
the branehes. , i> i • • i .
I conversed a lout? time with her about l{ubnn, whom
she had well knowirat the salon of Madame Merlm, where
she freciuently visited. . . i
I asked to-day what had hecoinc ot her. She started
asain one fine morning for Paris, said some— she is <lea.l,
said others. , ^. , ,
C'oneert this cveninic. ^ot a large audience hut sympa-
thetic. I d(» not know how L was able to play; i am
enfeeltled. All the pieces encored.
April 30.
J\ constable has come to arrest me, by order of the
prcMdent of the village (it is thus the mayor calls him
self) for not haviuir taki'U out a license, audi am con
denmed to pay a tine of fifty dollars I -o with the c
stable to the justice of the peace, and here is the expositum
of the aitair 'such as the justice of the peacegaye it w'lth
admirable candour. "Mr., it is true tlmt it is the custom
for us to send in advance to collect the five dollars tor the
license, but as the mayor said that the constable whom he
Ind sent last year nuule known 'to torn that you had then
refused to pay ami had insulted by words the authorities,
he has proposed to punish yc^.. for it by letting you give
vour concert without forewarning you that a iK-eiise was
• nee- <sarv, in order to U^ able to tine you fifty dollars.
.admirable simplicity! and behold here .lustice well
administered. Here am I condemned to pay fifty dollars
because a constable who does not know ine .a"<l f>''t<^""d^
verhaps Jones (who has insulted him) with Cottschalk
whom he has never seen, makes a false statement to a
•011-
'on-
Tin: CAI'SI/.ED r CHOOSER.
2S1
roacHng ninli'i- loot
licli A»() art' all so
)le to orusli llioso
j)le of Otrdi'Jislairi!;
nil' of tl>.'>si! iiisur-
ousy, and of secret
small towns. She
t iilono uuiler llie
birds Avarbled ou
out Iviihini, whom
lame Mei-liii, where
' her. She started
some — she is dead,
udieiico hut sympa-
ble to play; 1 am
April 30.
e, by order of the
e mayor calls him-
iisc, and I am eou-
I go with the eon-
3VC is the exposition
peace ji'ave it with
hat it is the custtmi
live dollars for the
: constable whom he
that you ba<l then
•rds the authorities,
by lettincr you give
that a license was
HI tifty dollars."
here justice well
to ]iay tifty dollars
\' me and confounds
n) with Gottsehalk
iilse statement to a
despotic mayor who revenges himself on me by laying a
snare!
Fortnnately, I got out of it.
Sunday, May 1, 18()4.
Spleeiil s}i'.eenl', sjileenll! The streets are deserti'd — T
see the crowds returning from religious si'r\ice. ^'oung,
irn'proachalile, singulai'ly ni'at, alter the iilthiness ot" our
soldiers, this appears to me so mnch the m()reextrai>rdinary.
We end)ark at live o'clock on the Ottawa, a small sti'anu'r
which crosses from Kingston to ("ape St. \'inci'iit in two
hours. We shall sleep there and then shall set out tor W'ater-
town. The wind blows furiously and our })oor little boat
rocks dreadfully. Mr. Strakosch, Avho is not a <!:ood sjiiloi-,
and who a few moments since became I'ale, seeks the
solitude of the captain's cabin. I go up on deck. We pass
alongside of a pretty schooner of which we only see the
prow. She capsized live days ago in one of those storms
so sudden and so terrible on Lake Ontario. She presented
a most singular elfect, lying on her side with her sails
spread, her anchor down, her hull ex|)osed, and her masts
beating like the legs of some giii'antic animal struggling
convulsively. This recalled to my mind the ]painful im-
pression which the death of a horse always make< iii the
bull lights. There is jiarticularly at the end of his agony
a mechi'.nical movement of the feet which act distractedly
as if they wished to walk in the air. It: makes me sick
only to think of it.
We enter into a narrow canal which leads to Cape St.
Vincent, The Ixuit lands at a spruce little hotel on the
biutk of the lake. A tall old man gives us a welcome, the
more assiduous, aa his hotel is at this moment emitty, and
we are nine.
His daughters, charming young ])ersons, ])ink and white,
wait uiioii v.s at table. Excellent supper. Fried trout,
caught in the lake.
May 2.
Slept badly. The ra'.j hive feasted all night under one
of the feet of my bed, and iiave ki'pt me awake.
"We start at six o'clock for Watertown. Keach there at
24*
n
I
282
sotj:s of a piamst.
i.i.-ht o'clock in the luoniinir. ^N o givo a oonoort .o-.lay at
Hovcn o'clock, bocauso the ^vorknlcl^ I do not knmv ot what
fa'-torv. .nvo a l.all in tlic same liall, ^vlllcll is to bcgni at
uint' '"."clock. Andicnce kiiul, and very enthusiastic. L n-
f.n-tnnatclv avo arc timl out. The want of ^\^-^V/Yl'^ i"^;
ii I.nzzin.''in tlie ears, and from the hrst notes 1 teel that i
.liall hanllv he able to play to the end of^ the i.rojrran.n.e.
This \vcek\ve have slej-t on an average tivo hours ni tlio
twenty-four, and travelled every day.
May 3.
Left Watcrtown for Utica. . n . a i
The vooulation of Utica is from thirty to fort.v thousand
souls. Tliere arc some heantiful churches, 1 nnity church,
among others, in which I have ni^ticed an excellent organ,
built bv a musical instrument maker of the town. S-mo
of the "streets arc lined by trees, whose tuck ioliage tonus
a delicious shade. Ihit what particularly attracts the at-
ti-ntion of travellers in Utica is its asylum i..r the insane,
Avhich is one of the most coiuplete establishments on the
American continent. The head laiysician ot the hospital
is one of our friends, lie is hardly more sane on the sub-
icct of music than ins patients. . ^ . ,-, ,.
It pours rain, and I fear that the receipts oi the ccnccit
this evening will be very poor. • . ,i „,o
A'erv warm audience. Utica has ahvays receued mo
well. ""I am always listened to witli kualne * tliere, and
alwava wannlv applauded. .. , r. ^i •
The .loctor takes me to sleep at the ho'.pital tor the in-
sane The doctors and attendants inhabit the hi(;_adc ot tlie
immense ..uadrilateral which the hospitalncrupies. It 18
eleven o'cloc-k. The doctor invites me up mto his chamber
to smoke, he his pipe, I my cigi. . Our conversation at
iiivt languishes as when given up entirely to tlio pleasure
of having nothimr to do, and the spirit i-slows with i-ro-
found solicitude the si-irals of cigar sn^oke as it unrolls
in the air, and dis, lays its forms before (lisai.j -earing. L
asked the (loct(U- if he had ever occupied honsclt with
spiritual manifestations, which for the last httcrn years
have troubled the United States, and whicli at certain
periods ac(iuire new life by the apparition ..t some extra-
ISTERVENTION OF SPIRITS— ADSUHD.
283
concert '.o-day at
ii()t know of what
ich irt to begin at
■iitlinsiastic. I'n-
ol" pli'i'j) LTivt's me
notes I tVvl lliat I
t' the i>ro<2;raninio.
live lioiirs in the
May 3.
'to forty thousand
.'s, Trinity church,
n excellent oriran,
' the town. Smu;
hick foliage forms
•ly attracts the at-
Unn for the insane,
hlishments on the
ian of the hospital
IV sane on the sub-
}ipt9 of the concert
Iways received mo
cindne ^ there, and
hospital for the in-
)it thefa(;ade of the
tal occupies. It is
1] into his chamber
)ur conversation at
rely to tho pleasure
it !;n1ows with jiro-
^n!oke as it unrolls
re disappcarinir. I
iipied himself with
ic last Hficrn years
1 \vhich at certain
itloii t)f some extra-
ordinary iihenomcnon. The Xew York ]iapi'rs for some
(lavs have been full of the I'xtraordinary tbinu-s done by the
l)ii\cnport brothers. I myscit' saw them at St. l^oiiis, and
will tell you hereafter the fai-ts which I have witnessed.
The doctor said to me, what all staid people candidly tell
me here, "I do not know what to think. ' There is certainly
one or some iilu'nonieiia which evade M'ieiiee, and are con-
nected with some unknown principle, iVom which elec-
trieitv, and all the i)henomena of second sij,ht, of sonuiam-
bulisin, of mesmerism probably proceed. As to beru'viiit;'
in the intervention of spirits, and niakini!; a newM'evelation
of it, that is simply absurd. "I was (it is the doctor who
sjieaks) at Port Hope some time since. One of my frit'iids,
aiipointed by the government to do some work for the
establishmeilt of a' railroad, had to live in a large stone-
ho ise which had been place(l at his disposition. The house
had belonged to an old fur trader, who had fre(iuently com-
mitted acts of vio'.i'nee during his life, anil hail made him-
self particularly h:;ted by the Indians who sold their peltry
to him; he had robbed many of them, said some one, and
added in a low voice that he had assassinated some oi' them.
Whether or not merited, the bad rejintation of the fur
tradi'r had become provi.Tbial, and since bis death the house,
some said, was haunted, and afti'rwards the iidiabitants told
me every night the ghost of X. stal.ced through all the
chambers." The doctor and his friend slcjit in the first story.
The invisible ghost (no one had ever sOeii it,l)Ut it had bei'U
heard breathing, walking, coughhig) always made itself
heard the first night the new occupant ]iasscd in thi' house.
Before going to bed the doctor and his friend went over
the house from the cellar to the garret. They sjiut up all
the siM-vants in their chambers, and minutely examined the
large lower hall paved with stone, situateil exactly under
the apartment where they were to sleej), and in which the
spirit i)referred to make himself heard. All the doors lead-
ing into the hall were ludtcd, t'xccpt tha.t which led to the
first story. Retired to their cbaml)ers, the two strangers
waited. The hours jiassed on — nothing was heard save the
noise of their breatliing — and at last, tired of waiting for
nothinii', thev went to bed, certain of having once more
put an emrto chimerical fears, and moi-e tlian ever eon-
284
yOTES OF A PIASIST.
vinrol tl...t d,nrt» only exist ■.,. in,«ginatio,„ Jisoasccl or
■''T'^- ,'^Y:'tk:1u' ;",'"., :: «; ;i?o '"u «.■ 'x-fu-ans,
Avho look like lauuci^ .>ii , „„> tlwit tlicv liad come
,,H,,aron.v.rom,arrass.da^^
to sec these uew Arcaaians at work.
Sykacusk, May 4.
T knoV of Syracuse only the two pavomcnts close to the
1 kno\\ oi } 'I ,^ railroad station (bad hotel, b}-
^^i^'^lSJ ^ ::^ol^ eXivours to make the ^
;i-ni:^i:;i;:the m of ^------i::^^^^., !;i
trains arrive, leave, cross each "f ^: .^;M^, ^;: J ^^ ^t ,m-le^
blind, be well assured bat theie i« ^ '^ ^^^ ^^^^ ,,,,iid
railways, for more uwlcpeudent enteipii.t^
'' Ailiilencc quite numerous and very dilettante.
OSWEGO— AUDURX.
285
tions tViHcased or
'1 by the way, the
wished to see me.
) two young men
,80 of Ainencaiis,
lat they had come
eoiu-ert, and that,
by it for the pur-
I of II eonnmmity
To my (inestion
L'd by the goveru-
Vom six years ago.
•y have tiVteen huu-
id use no tol)aeeo.
They have formed
the evening on re-
family assendtles, a
ven. The ehief of
lie tlieir hospitality
oept; 1 am curious
Syracusk, May 4.
•ements close to the
ition (bad hotel, by-
to make the good
es, uncatal)le. The
vithont ceasing and
^sing at right angles
iseme an inexhaust-
o or three hundred
iifusiop ? "Vou cross
:e care 1' cries a man
rain that hacks and
lic'h take fright. It
drunkards, and the
10 for the American
•prises no one could
dilettante.
Svraouse, without being different from some small towns
whiVh 1 have visited, always gives me a good audu'nce. L
however know nobody or nearly so, and have no personal
friends there.
May G, ISlM.
Leave again for Oswego at half-past tvo o'clock W M.
Arrive at tive o'clock. _
Uswe.'o is remarkable for its pictures(iiio situation. I lie
concert "lias been charming. 1 always play with pleasure
at Oswe.m. They listen to me with attention •. 1 am always
enthusia'^stically applauded there. Do not hasten to con-
clude that because I always go back therewith j, .asure,
the receipts are good, for witli me the one is not the co.i-
se<iuenee of the other. There are some towns where I
always make money and which I do not like, and othcis
where I make nothing an.l yet like to go. 1 know that
this is abstu-d, that reasonable men will shrug their sionl-
ders at it; but you know that artists understand but_ little
about business and have but little forc.sig;l.t. _ '1 here is one
thing that money cannot rule: it is the mspiration ot the
artist.
Fritlav, May 6.
Sot out ao-ain from Oswcffo at half-past seven V. M. for
Geneva, wliere we arrived on the seventh, ot .May at tour
o'clock. We travel since the morning through a succession
of lakes with which the State of New ;j ork id.ounds 1 lie
smallest of these lakes is as larjre as Lake Nv'^;!'-' .^^l- ^
have counted as many as forty-three in the ^^^^'^^^^^^
York alone. Geneva possesses a medical school, an hpisco-
l,al seminary, an independent college, an.l several boardmg-
Sools for-yomig Uulies. I have met here a dyspep ic
lltlish musician, wh.., with the greatest taith m the wor d,
maintains that England has pro.luced the best musicians
ami the best composei-s in the world! Concert jiassable,
and audience very kind.
Saturday mnrninp:, May 7.
Loft again for Auburn. Concert magnificent, all the
pieces encored. Li the hall a charming battalion of young
I
2H<>
yOTES OF A PIASrST.
I*
^ !; It Vlav :m air?" and alYor tlm-c l'^^^^^^ ^^'^ ^ ^:
tllmi.l, are oonfus.,!, an.l (Ik- (•oi.,i.la...ts begin that tlicic i»
"" v''';r..o.l onou.'li conooi-t at Auburn. I board a la.ly
A gciml ™""j' „ iloatciiiiig ra.-kot bo iiiakca with
going out «l\, w lull a ui.uliiim. t l,-ivp often
SUPEltlOniTY OF AMKIIICAN WOMKX.
287
ho romciiihnincc
:li hcuvc'd l)y tlio_
In; mistbrtinio of
K'o (Vul not cease
on then are thi-y
iooos by Mail. S.,
)V six solos, lie re-
nd he went away
ishod toU'ani how
enoval,w*'<^'" you
to his friends that
two firs, the one
, not! Onoofmy
ly concerts ho was
honiselvcs for the
11 the third i>art I
variations. They
)n, 'Homo, Sweet
j>ivvent the good
injr toi)lav 'Homo,
lained bitterly that
t play. The ear ot
thev only nnder-
tinually hear from
niple, the hideoiiB
summer' (oven this
re nmst be only ths
riations, absolutely
them to recognize
iient, they lose the
s begin tliat there is
1. I heard a lady
I'kct ho makes with
a it." I have often
at I always played
[rh noise. O critics I
re not so amusing I
Sundny, May 8.
r>oen to (\itholic clnu'ch and heard mass. Kxei-ralik'
nusicl Origan played liy a young girl who made impossi-
.lU' harmonics. Soi'mon "very long. The pri'achcr screamed
loud cnoui;li totire his lungs.' The congregation was utfectod.
m
1
May it.
Bet out a<!;ain from Auburn at seven o'clock in
the morning tor Koclii'ster, where I arrived at a ([Uartcr
]iast olevon^o'clock. Charming town; one of the neatest,
most animated, and most civilized of the West. Mv con-
certs luri' are always protitablo and my audicnio always
Avcll disposed. Concert tliis evening i xcellent. I should
like to transptu't hi a lum]), for the edification of Europe,
some of the audiences which come under my notice.
The feminine tviie in tlie United States is undoilbtedly
superior to that of Europe. Pretty young girls are a
maioritv in American audiences, wliilst in Eiu'ope they
are an exception. IJosidos the education of women, taken
on an averaVo, is more complete here, American women,
■with their delicate sentiments aiic *^he intelligence which
our system of education devoloi>s united to the iiative
oloijance of their sex, will do more than all the legislators
in ^the world to polish men, and to circumscribe^ within
judicious limits the turbulent ett'.'rvescence which is fountl
at the surliice of all new societies. Without them, 'whiskey'
and the 'revolver' would completely overrun t <. \>y tlioir
soft but powerful intluence, our manner^*, little by little,
become softened; and I foresee the day when a drunkard
will be treated according to his habits, that is to say, like
a brute, and when those who are always ready to draw
their revolver will bo punished as assassins.
At I^H'hester I have seen some of the most charming
typos of women that have ever crossed the dreams of an
old bachelor ! Outside of my excey>tional position of ].iamst
and old bachelor, this i^ the element which I dread the most
in my concerts — it gives mo absence of mind, and a wrong
noto'^is verv quicklv struck! Suppose I have to make a
leap to roach a black kov at the extremity of my koy-boai-d.
I take my measure well, but tlie Cai)itol is close to the lar-
peian; my finger, not well assured, because my eyes are on
ff
288
NOTi:S OF A I'lAyi'^T.
i.no,M-u.iously i.m.,p.taU..l ''f '/^ ' , '' : 'j > -V cf the
,„tural-to n.y '•'>''^^'?y/:! ' "V.rl. ti, out d.tW-t.
^""'^" '' Tt Nl'r X lo u 'novor l.con al.l. to ^lay the
sinMioso tliat -Ml. a., «i'' , i ,,i,l. jvasoii that
,„!,;i,. ,.!■ ...iK'vj, ..«"■ 1"- r',;:;i " hi' m ' " «■ ■■•■«ii»'i)
tl,.. lattvr is sllU in a i.nm.t,. . . u ^ .^^J
,„„1 l„.y„„.l l.U ,«.T^vr^U•t l;,", ',„-.. .n nnvll',
\';^p£tL:^!::'^''^"^''^ "';"-
old tricks. jr^ 1 ^^ ,,,,1, iiijiv clnssical
^r^^.^;:.:'t.i''\ri;;hi^
^^'i;;:^r:;^r^^"Lhi.aoni>y^.^
.oratchin. .without ^nng.' l^hc' tUmraod t^>
are in their J''<l^^"^f'^^^' \^^ -"'X-. ^ li^l-lavH »^kill hy
them. One, who is "<^^1'^'^^' ;^^^*;, ,, /o/./.a.''
attaekin.ii those who are /''"'^V^?;,!/.: easily c-au-ht.
oU- Oi e lias nothinjr t«> ^o^^S '"''^ V"'*" '\" u' Lne cele-
tM. Monte Mayer;a vulgar p^su'nu.uj. ^ X^^L
l>rate.l in S^nin by givms^ a eour e "^^^ ' .J ,,„„terfeit
,,roves that Newton was a ^'^^ ' "^"^'^ i,t-mselves an^
ions eauso tear beeanse thev "^^^^ 7, [''[f'J/J ',"' of the
,oneeal their voiee but, l>y,'-^;;:^,^lS^t. Reives that
king of the forest, tlK>y ^""< , \f ; f "'f^ then that we
'</ KXO]r AN ASS."
289
ic tifld, slips, aiul
, for ('XiUiipK'— >«
laian tU'ptlis "f K
I) the joy of the
itinir out defeets
il will ill (lis«(«ver-
1 fo;- iiU of lis Avho
our ucitrlihoiir to
V own US'.', l-i^'t 11=^
•11 ahli' to I'liiy the
(louhle reason that
I'vcr to lie rfali/A'd)
. that he falls witlj
uiist— upon myself,
how himself iMO(h'-
..' How as to that?
,(ly for the nej,n-oes!
inLi; into ai'eoiint the
)t'ft not jilay classical
of mortals applaud,
loil man, ])e ]iru(lent
more you heinire
nir venomous im]ier-
1 am more than you.
ha lion's skin, eausc
or tlie lion l»y ""'y
nore merciless they
alent is conceded to
Vrt displays skill hy
iols are easily cauglit.
•iun, has become ee e-
Icc-tures in Avhich lie
Rut these counterfeit
fori'-et themselves and
lavniii- the part of the
idiniT themselves that
r. It is then that we
. fraud is discovered,
and everybody lauiihs. They themselves never perceive
it, and ('(.ntii'iue u'l'iively to shake their asses' ears over
their mani'. i know an ass well, who, aftt'r haviiit; devoted
his pen for ten years in provini; to the artistic world that
niv compositions were detestaldc, was advised, iniserahle
wretch, to laihlish in an unlucky day one ol the hicuhra-
tions of his pen and of his _u;a fdled hrainl 1 coidess tliat,
until the luoment that this liaupy composition fi-11 into my
hands, 1 had thouu-ht myself killed hy the attacks of this
severe Aristarchus; hut', after haviui-; read it,! consoled
myself hv addressing; to him ' //( y>(7/o' this apostrophe,
wiiich T 'borrowed from Voltaire: "Sir: 1 panlon your
eriticisms because nobody reads them, hut 1 shall ncvi'r
parcUni your compositions because I have been oiditred to
read them, and they are too bad for me ever to forget
them."
CHAPTER XVII.
May 10.
Ret out again fi-om Rochester.
I recominend 'Congress Uall' to all travellers who attach
anv importance to an ext'cllent table, proiiqit attention, and
airaffable an<l attentive welcome from a landlord.
Arrived at Lockport at two o'clock. It pours rain —the
streets are lakes of mud — every gutter is a cataract. I
confess that if I was the public I would pay double what
one of my tickets costs not to go to the concert this evening.
Few at the concert ; but those who have bra.v'd the in-
clemency of such weather are evidently miisic-1 amateurs,
and I did my best. ^Vfy princiiile is, the smaller the aiidi-
emte the more I ayiply myself. Artists in general act ditt'er-
ently uiuK'r the same circumstances. Are the receipts small,
you see them assume an indifferent air, ]day or sing by
halves, cut down their pieces, shorten their programme;
and in acting thus they are ungrateful, illogical, unjust,
dishonest, uiul unworthy the name of artists. Ungrateful,
25
200
A'or/^.s- or A rrAMsT.
l„.c.nu^i' tlu'V milk.' th.ir ba.l l.u.noiir U'nr upon tl.oso avI.o
tirim v^u n^ to tlu-.r tUvour. rnjiist, lu...u,s. tl.oso
• .w, ,rm.,rt sl.ouia ..ot Ik. .vspuMs 1.1. lor t.o absent.
TlWrS, . Uus. one nu^ht bet .uTVtbn,, [bat tbos.. wbo
I in, to a .'.navrt brave ibe obstacles wbub bave layvent e.l
f ..•tvtnm,.oin^, are. nu- judges otnM.s.,N^
le ta„.l-it, aM.rtoNvbo,n ,be aH.st, .y!''''" ;!» 'T^
, ,,,,-,ate(l, sbouia en<K..vo..r to present Inn.selt n. n^
i : ibt. l)isbo,a.st, beeanse tbe person vvbo bas ,.a,. o
St eketbasa rb-bt to .U-n.ana all .bat ,s ,.r..nusea on tbe
.^.unnle- an-Ciinally, tbev are nnwortby -1 tbe..; yn.-
;U.n beea.ise tbe love of b.ece is u.tb tbeni JTivate. tl . ..
t a t' a.-t a.ul be is u..t a t.M.e a.-tist wbo n.easn.ys tbe
n >^ ' !;,.s and inspin.tua.s wbu-b l^ow iVo.n b.s son
be sum of .lolla.-s a.al cents wbleb bave on te e.l ...
is eott'e.- l..s|.i.-ation is not .•on....a...le.l, k.um n. I be
1 1 cV. .1.1 ..<. eo......a..a it to.- its .nonev. Tbe (..•o,^.-a..m.o
' , ( t lea.l tbe.n t.. tbink so,b..t, to be true to tben.seK es,
;C :^ mlil .lo wbat tbey on^bt_ to do As to n.s,..n.tu.n
Us in,le..e...le..t of tbe will, it bas bai.l.e..e.\ to ne to
l.v 1. -blV before erowded balls, and .eto.-e intelhire..
iene s; and o,. tbeeont,-a.y to,.lay in vdlap,a,.d bet., e
;;;;;rK,,,..es\vbo ba.-dly ..nde.-stood it, in Hueb away as to
please myself, a very dillicult tb.ng .
Wednosday, May 11.
Sot ont acaiii from Lookport for Toronto (<^^'^;'»'^;^> ,
Awakene.l at six oVloek tb.s mo.-..n..ir by ti 'd n .
gone. Ts it possible tbat i,. tbis nu.e ec-ntb cr.. ...-> , > h^
Sn.U of a rep..blie, i.^ a eivili^od ^^-y-^"^^^:^^ i^^
of ba.-ba.-ism sbould not yet bo abol.s.o.H A\ at i a
in a botol. I pay for tbo purpose ot ii..dn.,!X tbe.-e boa.d
u^d I'ldn., -lli^-h inebides" sleep. I an. -dber . e^a
nor o-iill(.v-slavo, nor slave, m.ieh loss a sold.e.-, t at is l.
Z Ian not obli^e.l to'be subje<-te.l to diseiplino; an.
mil'ortiioss an aut'ooratie landlord, .vbom I pay in on;'
t, n.moto my eomfoi-t, sball bavo tbe ri.bt to vt;' -^
destroy my slJep, and bnitallv draw n.e t.-om in> -e at
any bour tbat shall pU-ase bin., as if 1 ^yo.•o lis V ' > •
and you and I suppo,-t tbis ba.-bar...is tyram.y .'. > '^.,"^'*
hose around me murmurs. Custom is eyerytlung w ith tho
,i.v r:\ronri .\.\n-: s/:nMoy.
201
r U]ion tlins(> who
1st, l)i'(':uisc tlmsi'
.Ic I'or till' iiliscnt.
Ill' tliiit tliDsi' wlici
■li liavo jircvi'iiti'd
L'rt <»f music, \vlii>
ciTtaiti of lii'iii|Li'
it liimsi'lt' ill 111"
1 who liiirt iiiiitl lor
is |ir(iiiiisiil on the;
itliy ol' tlirir i>ro-
tlicm j^irateT tliaii
wlio iiicasiu'i'rt till-
flow iVoiii liis '^oul
have I'liti'ivtl into
.(1,1 know i(. Tlu-
V. 'I'lu! in'ojiTiinimo
triu' to thi'msi'lvts,
As to in>i>iratioiv
liai-iic'iKMl to nie to
I JK'foiv inti'irnr»'"f
villages, antl In't'ori;
I teuc'h u way as to
Wcdni's.lay, May 11.
onto (Canada),
linsr by that (.Mirsod
.(■nrii (rnti)ry,iH tho
•tv, this last vostitjo
loIl? AVhat! 1 iini
iindino; thoir hoard
im noitluT colloirian,
a soldiiT, that is to
d to disciiilino; and
■horn I l>ay in order
le riijlit to violontly
11' from my ri'posc at
1 were his ^iroiterty:
tvranny'; No one of
^everything with the
AntrloSnxoii. The empire of riMitiiie liolil- hini in lradni,LC_
striuiTs. That the proprietor of a hotel shonld think yf
oi'dennir tiiat hisu'iie.-ts >liuiild not drink more tliaii a rcrtain
(inanlit V daily,- would you not revolt at it '.' 1- it not ncver-
tln'h'ss"as de~potif to reljuiri' that vou should he awakened
at six o'clock in the inorninjr'^ ihit as tVoin time iiniiie-
niorial, hotel keepers have arrotiated to thcinxhcs the
rioht of not iiermitting us to sleep aftir a certain hour,
wi- <iuii'tlv sulimit to it. . . , ,
it pom's rain. The heavens ari' like leail, and it is cold;
decidedly tills sprinir is liostiU- tons; for one month, out
of twi'iit V soirees, sixt( en at least have hc( n with a pouriiii^^
vain. Tiii're foes again aiiolhi'r leaf toi'ii from the tree of
niv illusions. This l»eautiful month of May, so poetical,
tio' much sung hy th.e poets, is a myth.
Last Siimlay at mass the jireachcr took for the suhject of
his sermon the worship which the Catholic ( hurch gives
to the X'irLciii Mary. "The heautifiil month of May has
he("ii especially consecrated to her," ami the occasion otlering
itself to make use of a little rhetoric, hi' commetK'cd hy pre-
senting to us nature awakening in the spring, the ' uds first
hecomini!; Ln-een, the tlowers exhaling their perfumes to tho
hree/e. ^"Tlie sun, etc. etc. etc" ' Here, the ^ky, whi.'h
lias heen cloudy since the moniiiiir. opened to let jiass (a
ray of simrmhtl you will wiy) — no! lightning, after a clap
of' thunder, followed hy a (h'liige of rain, mingled with hail.
The poor jiriest, who had prepared his sermon in prospect
of a month of Ma\ , like all others, was completely taken
aback, and eoinpivheiKling that the breeze, jierfumed by
the tlowi.rs,aiid the sun no' longer agreed with a iliill, rainy
month, full of st(»rins, tornadoes, and of bad designs, re-
siunied himself to making a sacrifice of his rhetoric, and
soon finished his sermon.
One hour of detention tit TFamilton rn mute for loronto.
Some davs since, on arriving at a small i>lace. a local piiper
fell into 'our hands, ai.d we read in it a diatribe of one hun-
dred lines against fashionable music, the Italians, the (ier-
mans, in one word, airainst every species of art which is
not so elevated as the'music of the Christy minstrels. Our
airent had neglected to trive this Athenian my announce-
riTent, and lie^revenged liimself for it after the manner ot
202
yoTEs or .1 /'/.i.wvr.
nuLM-v rWMrcu, ul... Wn\ tlu'iuKclvos will, U....r tinK ( i.r
lium'by thin i.ri.r.v.lini: sIm.wv.I I.ii.imH' in nil Ins tolly.
Our ..(.iiccTt took i.lar.. thv Hiiiiu- rvr.iin,t.M.iMl lli.'.ir.M,.! iimn
Willi ii.nTiii.l umli.r linislu.l l.in i.rfwl.- l.y K'ttii.ir lly 'jt 'i'*
a poiHoM.'.! arruNV. "This was writtn. lyany .lay. huhv,
l,Mt wc .lid la.t puMish it. luvaUM- \vr <h<l not wisli t.. .1..
harm t.> tlm c.ii.vrtrt whi.'h vviv ahout to tako i.la.v.
Ihiviii.-- i-xainiii.'.! .-Ill- .•(.luiiins, iiial assiiiv.1 ..Mi-sclv.'s Ilia iio
,,,„.H.n Nvasaho.il to tak.' pla.v. ur hav .l.vi.lr.l to pMhlisli
it •• Max, who is ).ati.'iici' itsolf provuh'.! no .•iif toiiriu's
his intnvsts, lu'camr iv.l with ni.tr.' "H iva.liii.ir tho artu'k-.
i'l.. s.w oiilv the last i.ara.irrai.h.-that tlu-iv was no .•oiKvrt
„l„.ut to tako i.la.T,'^ whi.'h was .•alriilat.-l to k.rp avvav
,„;mv of ..ur an'li....v. IK- .•alK^.l on tla- .-lilor, an.l with
thi' ino'^f at;T(val.lr air in th.' worM, intnMlu.v.l hiins.'lt. ^^
M„.r. "1 am your servant, sir. My name is htrakosi-li.
J<:,li(nr. ".\h:"" , ^ ,i- 1 ♦! f
J\l„.r. "I ivijivt that y.ai th..u«<;ht proiuT to pniiiisli that
"''V;/;^)r (with a stitr airV "Thos.., sir, arc my opinions."
Mu. "I am Horry for it (with u gracious air), l.nt piT-
liai's voti will comf to tho con.'.-rtv" , , „ t"
J'J. I i tor {i'w\nmi^-^\Mtni A wishing it tohoHoc-n). "Hem.
ilfm "Have y.m a family T' . .- , ^
AWZ/or. "My stars, yos I 1 think that four ov livo tickets
^^"i/'m* "I am (lolishtcl! You will tin.l them, sir, at your
di-^iosal at the music store, where they will cost you only
seventv-tivo cents each."
And he returned cha.-mcd wiHx his roven.sxe. T figure to
Tiivself the discomfiture of th.' editor. Hut the conse-
nilences ! Poor Strakoscli ! the editor will have his revenge,
and if you ever return here (which j.rohahly you will have
the .n.o.1 sense never to <lo) you may expect to receive liis
hroadsides. I pity you, or rather 1 l.'ity the artis s tor
whom you will he the impressario, tor it will he on them
i,s heing the only vulnerable point of the impressario, that
will fall the blows, like those coachmen who strike tiie
horses of their rivals with heavy blows ot their wlups
whenever they meet them. , . ,
in the last niontli of June I gave thirty-three concerts m
1
r.MiAnisf: .i.v/» nrrr. nrprwisr.s'.
•20n
tlu'ir tWts. Our
ill nil Ills tolly,
ml llic u'immI iiiiiii
litiiiiiJ: tly lit iiM
liiny <l!i\» Hiiicc,
I not \\i-*li tn tli>
: to tiiko |ilii('c.
ulirsflvrs lllilt lli>
'.'idril to |iiil>lisli
1 IK) ollf tollrlKS
idiiiir tlu' artiiU'.
It' w as no coiu'i'l't
cd to keep ilWiiy
(■(lilnr, mill witli
liici'd liiiiisi'lf.
iiic is rttrak<Hi'h."
IT to jmlilish that
arc iiiv oiiinioii'*."
ions air), l»nt por-
liesocn). "Ilcml"
imr or tivo tickets
tlii'in, sir, at yonr
\vill I'ost you only
'iMiiio. T fiijnrc to
. Hut the conse-
1 have hih rovotigc,
dily you Avill have
[teet to receive his
ity the artistH for
t will he on thein,
L' iniiiressario, that
en who strike the
vrt of their whips
ty-threc concerts in
twentv-Hixdtivs. In fourteen inotilhrtidiiriin: which I have
r.niaiiicd idl.'onlv lifly days) I have L'iv.ii nioiv ihaii lour
hundred .•oii<erl>,^iiid'tnivellr.l i v than forty tliou^.and
miles hv railroad. This reminds me of the hlory l.y the
Mill of Alexandie |)iimas, when- his hero laid a wairer to
live a whole month exclusively on pigeon I The fir>t eiLdil
davs did v»'rv well. The second week this insipid tl.-li
heliaii to disir'iist liim. The twentieth day he hail a honor
of"it,aiid on the thirtieth (for he heroically won hi- heti
the siuhl only of a i.i.ireon's t'eat her nave him a fi'Vi'r and
sea->ic'knessl 'l am the sam«' with my concerts; the siyht
of an audience trives me a nausea, and every tveiiiiic; in sit-
tiiiii' down ill fi""ii* "•' f'l'' ii'i'lieiK'c, to the key-lioitrd, to
whTch pitiless fate has di'Voted me, 1 experience tln' panus
of the thirtietli d.jy of pijieoii in Dumas' story. I am
pleased to think tlia'l Iicyoml the tonih concerts I'xist only
m the memory like the niji,hlmare wi' recall to ourselves
confusedly in "the moriiin«;'wl:ich has painfully ilistiirlH'd
our slcep."^ Till- Orientals people their jiaradise with mar-
vellous hoiiris; the Indians till theirs with prairies full of
uame where the chase is eteriuil. 1 love to tiirure to myself
riiat in the paradise wheri' 1 shall tcoCn tlu" local laws strictly
pr<philiit ever jilayiiit; music in jiiililie for nioiu'y, under
the |ienalty of listenint>: twi-nty times successively to 'La
reverie de Uoselh'U.' On the other side 1 represent hell to
nivself as hi'liii; the treiu'ral t'Utrepot of all pianos— sijUtiro,
u-raiid, upriirht, and ohliiiue - an infernal Uotaiiy Hay lor^
Uie practice o{' hanU'iied pianists, in which an audience of
the ilamned listei, to an eternal 'Keverie de Rosclleii,'
plaved to the consnmmatioii of the at;es liy pianists, iii-
halVitants of the somhre em|.ire! Ileyl What do vou say
to it? Itmakesoneshudderoiily totliinkof it,niid Daiitt',
had he known of the piano, w<')uld he have failed, think
vou, to have made it take a part of that fri<rht fill torment
"in his 'Inferno".' No, certainly, and if to the ' Reverie do
Kosellen,' he had added tlii" 'Domia e Mohile," and 'The
Maiden's Praver,' of Miss Uardazewska, I do not doiil.t that
i\r,,lin,, himself would have heeii comparatively happy in
iKit helontriiiir to this honourahle artistic corjioration.
Sometimes I tind myself retarded on the road hy some
aeeident or unforeseen circumstance. I then dispatch a
25*
204
^^OTES OF A PIAXIST.
ti.lo.rrimi to iviv asrcnt and the lionr for tlic concert is nimk-
later- lmtitals(.liaiiiK'Mss(.nicthiicstluittlictclc<.Taniarriv«>s
too late for liini to imUlish it. The au<liencc already asseni-
l.lcd in the hall hecomes a.L^itated and restless at not sirn.g
the artist nhvviw. M V teh-i^raphic dispatch arrives,an(l ^tra-
kosch reads it to the\uidi^nce offering to return the inoiu'y
to tliose who have not the patience to await my arrival. .\
tcle-'-rani from Strakosch in answer to mine, whicii i g-ene-
ndlv receive at the next station, makes mc aware ot its
dcTision. Then, if it is willing to wait forme, I send, trnm
station to station, a telegram which my ageiit rea;.d to tlie
andience to keep it in patience. This calms it. Soon
there is estahlished hetween ns a sympatlu'tic tie. It Ic-
comes interested in the unknown traveller whose thought
traverses space to communicate nith that ot the" ciiAul
anxious to see him. Every one converses with his neigh-
hour; the voun- girl, iiirt with their heanx; the papas
sleep, or talk of Eric or of American gold ; the hall is trans-
forn.ed into a vast frien.lly Tertulia As the telegrapluc
dispatclies toUow each otlicr, tlie enthusiasm augments 1
am seen approaching' more than twenty miles, no moretl.ai
ten miles off, the ^ last stations are genera ly traverscnl
amidst the expectant enthusiasm ot the whole hall. 1 It
exciiemcnt hecomes so great that they almost emhraee
^"'(X B'I'if I were one of the andience, hy-thc-hye, I should
notl.i.ve the least ohjeetion in yielding (wi'.h discrimination)
to this atfectionate demonstration. •
Strakosch then appears and witli tremulous voice says,
.vipin- his forehead as if he luul just pulk.l the ram so
impat'ientlv awaited, more than-litty miles (or rather like
n'impres^ario who after having thought his receipts were
shipwrecked sees them ri.ling at anchor at the .ottom ot
his coffers), these solemn words whicli the audience le-
eeives with a tattoo of ' hurrahs :' " L^idies and ^^^^^^'H:
I have the honour of announcing to you that Mr. (,< ttsehalk
ha^ iust arrived." I then make my entree upon the scene,
and the tattoo of the audience goes on increasing, swells
and takes su.di hoisterous proportions that 1 should not
know how to give vou an idea of it. unless vou have- hear.l
the finale of ^ toue'^of Maestro i'etrella, or that ot ' Medea
THE CIIAMPIDS OF COSVEnTS.
205
ic concert is niado
lotc'k'UTaniari'ivfs
wv already assi'in-
Ikw at not Htrinti;
h arrives, and St ra-
return tliu money
ait my arrival. A
line, Avliich I gene-
s me aware of its
;)rme, I send, from
agi'nt i-ea'd to the
s "calms it. Soon
lathetic tie. It be-
Icr whose thontrht
that of the crowd
■ses Avith his neigh-
heanx; the pa^ias
d; thehallistrans-
As the teletrraphie
;iasm iMisi'ments. I
miles, no more than
Generally traversed
ie whole hall. The
icy almost embrace
by-thc-bye, I shonld
,vi'h discrimination)
■emulous voice says,
jmlled the train,_ so
dies (or rather like
;ht his reeciiits were
or at the bottom of
•h the audience re-
plies and o-ciitlemcn,
thatMr. (iottschalk
itrtH' upon the scene,
»n increasing, swells,
s that I should not
idess you have heard
,1, or that of ' Medea'
of Maestro racu.i, which, to my notion, aiv the \^^o mo.t
dean, ing mnsic-al alH.minaiions wh ch have ever been con -
U >lnc-e the invention of the bass drum, the cymbals,
"' I the whole kitchen battery of m...lcrn mstrumcntation.
i ■ k.si.n,edlv enlaro-e upon this, be..ausc it is charactc-nstic
of m'-AmeVican audience, and a nove and .^l-l'v /'f ^
h 'e in the phvsiology of concerts in the I n.ted States
^ Xotbhig, latterly, worthy of notic^ m ^-y ^^^^^^^^^^
it is a tew lines .-iving an account ot one ol the la ( a -m i-
ublv 1 am hound t.. acknowlc.lge), nuM.tionmg that M .
Uottschalk played ^r-l'^^^-^rj'^'^f ^ 'D^'Ti::!:^
^,,. J, .^ and with magnificent ettec . 1 he t . < le
Son.' for two pianos '. I pity the p<..r haby ^vho should he
eoiuk.mne.1 to l>e c-ra.Ued under tl.e magnmcent ;f ^'<;- >
pianos. This l.rb.gs to my nund by contrast tin- ' M >.. e
h. ]>roplK"te' which 1 s.w at Havana arranged or le
llauaM.let with guitar accompaniment 1 I is probable t
the cluNM.icler of this concert, having g..ne to sl.rpatta n-
H.r (without the ai.l of the two pianos m (p.estio ,), m ^
uive written on the faith of the programme and ot he . m-
babilities, but that his pen still benumbed contounde.l U
FutaisieTriomphale' !.n ' Trovatore' tcr tw<. pianos with
tlie H'radle Song,' which the progranimo announced loi
''l,rth:";:^Sph oxtn.eted from my last letter to the
cHoino Journal' the editor eomnutted an error which majo
of the other papers reproduced and which 1 wish to rectits.
"l^schalk itSs said, has given in the 'mtcl States .u-arly
one thousand coiu-erts and has trave le.l by rad and s eani-
hoat nearly eight thousand miles." It ^^^^^^.^^
oi.rht thousand but eighty thousand mdes L -k. thou-
sand miles hi two years are simply a tritle that tl' . r.ma lest
learned animal, giant, dwarf, phenomenon .)r traveUmg
pianist who ha? speculate.l on the c-ountry <•«.! b. .t
, viug done, and the rights which 1 deman.l as the
c a npion of concerts and of perambulation on railroads
would be as doul>tful as those of the ku.got Sanf n a to
the kingdom of Jerusalem, or ot those o KichannN agner
; the .^.ming races, if I had only Vivdit on the le, ger o
oosteritv for eiirht thousand nuserable little m es! ! Lut
It is ei"-hty thousand miles which I have travelled m less
20G
NOTICS OF A riAMST.
u-
than two years, givh.g on an avorago throe ^•^^^^;;^^;'^^y
tw.. .lavs. It is almost as notable as Doeior {'.) \\ nishu.,
of Uoston, who raises four lliousan.l pounds or tlio young
Conneetieut irirl that JJarnum exhil.its who weighs s>x
hun.lre.1 pounds. My detraef.rs can .leny me everythu.g
m the future, I eare little about it 1 hey 7", «iy/ '"f.
I i)lav only mv own musie, and that it is had ; //"it 1
,rm,w>„v,/atmVeoneerts (how horrible:,); that 1 ^vll•^• "'.v
lingers before eommeneing to play, with my ijandkerehiet
vhirh 1 take from */'.'/ /'-"•/,<,' (what a shame Ij. all these
thin.^s form the suhjeet of a widely extended, anonymous
eorrespon.lenee, with whieh a erowd of austere h.Vi^rs ot
art ..-I'atifv me every morning, whose little bilious spite is
alleViated by telling me eontidentially the most J.isagree-
ahle thiiiixs i'n the world. ., t i ♦•
From Uie heis,dit of my eiirhty thousand miles i dety
the wh..le world; and if my enemies after having- dislodged
lue from «o many other positions attempt to dispute witli
me the possession of this last bulwark, 1 solemnly .kvUire
to them that 1 ahull defend it with the energy ot despair.
ANECDOTES OF KALKBREXXER AND OTHERS.
Ivalkhrenner, who by his didaetie works is recom-
mended to the respect of art i.ts, but whose compositions
1)V their vacuity are condemned to never being played,
had it odd, neat, limpi.l execution, and a pure but suucr-
iicial and tedious stvle. Tlie perfect elegan.-e ot Ins man-
ners, his cultivated intelligence, and his talent gave luni
trreat success in societv. but his extreme vanity, which had
hecome proverbial, had in time rendered him msuppi.rtablv-.
lie thou.--ht himself infallible in everything, and had said
forciblv like a celebrated dancer of the last century I ->V/v.S
I think, -there are u» Europe tliree great men— V oltaire,
Frederick, and mvself." 1 lis best pupil, Stamaty a iellow-
scholar with Osborne, the fortunate tellow-labourer ot
I'.eriot in one hundred <lu..s for the j.iano and violin, was
mv teacher for beven vears. In 1844, then very young, I
.rave at I'aris a s.nree'to which all the illustn..us i.ianists
\>i' the pi'ri.nl were invited, anunig .>thers Kalkljrenner. i
played Chopin's concerto in K minor, Ihalberg s iantasia
KALKDnESXER.
291
reo co'U'i r*s every
(H-tor ('.) ^\ iiishii.,
iiuls, or the young
( who weighs six
•ny 1110 everything
riiVy can say that
it is had ; ^liiit I
I); that 1 wipe iny
1 my iiamlken-hief
shame'.;, all these
tended, anonymous
f anstt'i-e hiviTs ot"
ttle hilious spite is
the most .lisagree-
sand miles I defy
'V having disloilged
]it to dispute with
, 1 solemnly deelare
energy of despair.
;d others.
r works is reeom-
tvhose eomitositions
lever heing played,
d a pure hut suuer-
legaiKv of his man-
lis" talent gavt' him
e vanity, which had
1 him insupiH>rtahlv.
rthing, and had said
last eentury, V-Mrls,
;reat men — Voltaire,
il,Stamaty,a fellow-
: fellow-lahourer of
iano and violin, was
, then very young, I
e illustrious pianists
lers Kalkhrenner. I
•, Thalherg's fantasia
of 'Scmiramide,' and that of Liszt's 'Rohert le PiahU'.
The next (lav 1 went to tlii';.k Kalkhrcniu'r for having eome
to hear me." This atti"..tion softened a littlr tlu' generally
sour disposition of the old i-ianist, who did n..t forgive
the new sehool for knowiiiT something; he took my hand
and said to me with an air of majestie eondesceiision,
"The style is irood; as for the rest there is nothing astonish-
iii"-; von are'mv trrandi-hild (alluding to Stamaty, who
w;Ts his pupil), but, for (Jod"s sake, who advise.l you to
play sueh musie'^ Chopin! I hardly jKirdon you; hut Liszt
and Thalheru-, what rhapsodies! Why did you not i-lay
one of my j.ie.-es'i they are Inautiful, [.lease everyhody,
and are elassieal !" i .i
Kalkhrenner had a son wh(.m he lioj^ed to make Uie
inheritor of his o-lorv, hut who, after having heeii an miant
pi-odi-y, ahorted and heeame a prodigious nullity. One
ni'dit'Tifter havimr hoasted before the Freiieh Court ot the
iinprovisation of his ehild, then eight years old, tlieking
expre.ssed his desire to hear one of these marvi'llous inspi-
rations. The ehild plaeed himself at the [.iano and j-layeil
for si)me minutes, then stopping all at onee he turned
towards his father and artlessly said to him,^'i'apa, 1 havo
forirotti'ii — ." . 1 . 1 •
kalkbrenner lived, wlien I was introduced to liini, in
the (luarter of J'aris called (Mte (FOrleans. This Cite d Or-
leans was a kind of artists' hive. You reached it through
a narrow alley which opened into an interior court around
which mniiv eU'gant pavilions were clustered.
The tirst'whieh met the eye was occupie<l on the ground
Hoor hy Zimmerman, the director of the piano classes at
the Paris Conservatoire. A wearisome ])ianist, a pedantic
and ordinary composer, he was nevertheless an excellent
pa.fessor, and it >va.s he who formed J'riuk'nt, (Jorui, and
all the pianists of the French school. On my arrival at
I'aris he had refused me admission to the Conservatoire,
saying that "America was the country of railroads hut not
of musicians." ,
On the tirst floor was the atelier of Dantan, the cele-
hrated sculptor who has made the busts of every illustrious
artist of this century. The pavilion alongside was occu-
pied by Georges Sanci Avheu she was m I'aris, and alongside
f f
298
NOTES OF A PLiXIST.
of bora camo that of Chovi"- <^1'1'<^^'^^ <?"""^. ' ""
oil miatour who si-ocnlatc-.l on the ivputation ot a man ot
lo -to gather \o his house all the a...sts u, vog,^ to
av and shi- without its ever costu.jr lam a W'"^. ^|'.'''
Ip'rierof Count de i^ often found), alongside ot h.m
^^S;;' ti:^ !^m;h-lK.nist, was the friend of Kalkluvnuer,
.vW widms ho n,lieuled unnuMvitul y. 1 hea,-d hun
rclute the following anee.loto one day that I dmed \Mlh
i a •ui a\salad nn^is served for which Kalkhreuner had
v^it^ Utoseasoning. Atuou. other pretensions ho
latter boasted that he entertainedLetter than anybody e >e
and as to eti-iui'tte many sovereigns had taken counsel ot
his kuowleduv in delicate eases. , . , i-o • ^„
" I 'avc a dinner to the chiefs of the _A«idemy ot Sc-ioneo.
and VTedieine of which I was dean (it is Orhla wl... speaU)
Te French Princes were also invited, and "'>"'y ot er
il strious persons. Tlie number of my servants not be ng
m lie cut, I engaged some more; whether i was owing to
; m u e of their duty, or that they were fngditened a the
aiglit of such an imposing assembly, one ot tln^a bun ed a
plate to Kalkbrenner on his right side. Ivalkbiennci,
Sing l.iniseh eclipsed by the presence of so '.jany ^n'out
^u^nes: and sutierin.g impatiently from >^emg re egate to
an interior place, took care as you umy well !^"l'l !_>- ' ^
6ei/c the (H-casion to tliake himselt noticed. My li lend,
eaW he, in an assumed manner to tho uniortunate servaii ,
♦when any one has the honour oi waiting on guests as d -
tiV-uishefl as we are, ho ought not to bo ig.u.rant tla
platesare to be handed o» the IrjV And on this he l>ridled
, and, the servant having changed his position, l^o he pel
mself'pleuteously from tho dish Some ^"neatterth
Ivdkbre mer a^so gave a dinner. It so happened hat oi.c
J^' the i::i!vants in ^king a <lish off the table upsc^ jho saucn.
on my head (and on saying this Orhla ^t,^,^; ,' '^j'' : {
o„ which there was no lon-er a hair). My . .. d, 1 s.u
to the poor servant, stupetied by his awkwardness, we
uv me has the honour of waiting on such di tiuguishc
n.^.s as wo are, he ought not to be^.^norant that he mus
r.ot upset sauee .m their hea.ls.' ^^'f '''•^■'"'^'V:';;' ?': "«
the llssou, and found it «o much the more bitter as he
ORFrr.A AND THE DOCTORS.
209
» Count , nn
iitioii fit' a man of
rtistrt in vt^guc to
lini .1 ^lonny (this
alongside' of liim
(I of Kalkbri'unor,
y. 1 licard liiin
hat I dined wirli
KalkhrciHicr had
•r iirctcnsions the
than anyhiidy i'l>o,
d taken counsel of
cadeniy of Sciences
Ortila "who si)eaks).
, and many other
servants not heing
or it was owing to
.■e frightened at the
? of them handed a
ide. Kalkhrenner,
of so many groat
beinu; relegated to
ny well suppose, to
iced. ' My friend;
anfortunate servant,
ng on t£uests as dis-
;)"be ignorant that
i on tliis he l)ridlod
position, lie helped
)iue time after this,
) happened that one
able upset (he sauce
showed us his head,
' My fr'.^nd,' I said
wkwardness, 'when
such di tinguished
iiorant that he must
nchreniier understood
u more bitter as he
liked, as I have said, to entertain, and boasti'd that every-
thini:; at his house followed the rules of court eti(plette, of
whirii he had instituted himself grand master." _
Ortila every Thursdav gave a dinner to his friends. Jt
was ;it the period of tlie 'cholera: twelve hundred jKn-sons
die<l (hiily of this horrible disease. All the doctors ordered
a rigorous diet. >■ They are asses,"' said Ortila, laughing;
an(r"^he continued to srive his friends (who nevertheless
found themsi'lves no worse for it) everything which was
tlu'ii considered as tending to engender .he i.revailing dis-
ease salads, ice-creams, and fruit. "They are asses. :ni<l
the proof is that, after having killed me eighteen years
au'o, thev were not al)le to discover that I was not deiul."
Indeed, 'in a terrible illness whi h he had, he fell into_
a cataleptic statt' which presented such appearances of
death that the physicians were deceived for many hours.
lie was i)resent, without iu'ing able to move, at the prepa-
rations for his burial, and heard the conversations of the
doctors who relieved each other, near to him, and made
their observations on the deceased. '^ It is since my death
that 1 have become disgusted with life,"* said he with a
comic seriousness, which leads us to sujipose that the dean
of the Academy had been but moderately satisrted with the
limeral orations which he heard made.
It was at these dinners that I became acquainted with
the most celebrated doctors and surgeons of the time.
Trousseau, who began to make himself kimwn, and at that
time devoted his leisure to a pretty American ; Hoyer, the
venerable chief of chemistry at the Hotel Dieii; Kicord,
the artists' doctor; ras(iuier, the doctor for children and ot
KiiiiT Louis Philippe; Maisonneuve, who wa.s already jilan-
niiuThis marvellous operations; Nelaton, the surgeon who
ci'.re<I (laribaMi; and many others av hose names escape nu'.
Urtila, notwithstanding 'the gravity of his hdxaiys and
the austerity of his manners, took delight in music, and
sung (he was sixty years okl) with much spirit Italian
boutie music.
f1
800
NOTES OF A riAMST.
ClIArTER XYIII.
May 11, 1B64.
Abbived at Toronto at five o'olork P. M. ;ro['>!'/o i;;
the rS (.Uy in C'a.uula. Smaller t .an Mon real, it luH
tile allvantaixe of being more aninmtod. Its «oc-K-ty ,s n.oro
hosiiitablo and Kuroi>ean. i * i tr.
A suuorl. .onfcrt! We play and .in- our best, and, to
in4: Voni the enthusiasm of the ^^^^-^'':''^::: ^i^^'^^'l
• -urn the tirst to the last piece, we svieeeed. I w 11 nu;n i.-u
u nprovement over our eoneerts at M.n.treal, Avhuh s
1 at eouN-ersation, if there was any, took place m an u u e,-
tone that permitted the music to be heard ^(. noui^'
.thcers nuikim,^ themselves insnpp<.rtable to heir ne.j^l-
bours bv their'unseasonable talking, but, on the contrars,
REAL S..- ish gentlemen who di.l not thmk themselves
bound to' show '^heir cnnui by acting in a manner annoying
'^llv^^f ;;r;;.V- ^>r my mimical I^o^jny lias oxj^-
en-ed a ru.le shock this evening ^^•'^'•"V\^^\»^ "V/'
having been eiicore.1, took it into her head to smg mv
Jcra Ue Song,' which was not on the programme. A
Chan ng woman asked me the name of tliat './/vyA//./ ^. S
S'v lowas the composer of xt't And this is ^o nuu^i
Jhenuu^e Vexatious as I have not even the consolation ot
pposing that my pretty interrogator -as one ot n^
enemies uul chose this mode ot proving it. Mie li.ul, tie
Si:;rone, just c^st a dart at^ -^^ ^ J^^^i:^;
wb-i.-h she had thus sharpened, rendered the landid opm
o wh h she had expressed about my latest born more
ni^u o mv paternity. It is salutary that, irom time to
ti we should be recalled to the reality o things, that
to i V that amidst the factitious atmosphere ot bia>se.l
oninonsfr 1 interested tlatterers, in the midst ot whom
v^^; are painp^-ed,the truth should reach us from without.
-*r*p«f''^W«a*:«ja^
Mny 11, 1P(54.
: r. M. Toronto in
luu Montroal, it Iuih
, Its sofk'ty is nioro
int; our best, and, to
dioiur, Avlio oticoivd
■00(1. 1- Avill iiu'iitit»u
Montreal, wliich is
)k placi- in an muler-
e lieard. ^'o younsi;
able to tbeir neiti'b-
bnt, on tbo contrary,
ot tliink theinsi'lyes
n a luanuer annoying
progeny bas cxperi-
^hidani SStrakoscb,
lor bead to sing my
tbe ]irotri">i'>'"t" -^
.1" tbat \fr''<jl>iM !>>>'''(''
And tb'is is so imub_
-on tlio consolation of
itor was one of my
ing it. Sbe bad, tbe
mo, and my vanity,
orod tbe candid opui-
niy latest born more
iry tbat, from time to
id'ity of tilings, tbat is
itmospbere of biassod
in tbe midst of wboni
eacb us from witbout.
THE BARRACKS AT TOROXTO.
801
May 12.
T wont out at eleven o'clock to <lino at -Mr ( J.'s, a IVlo
bv birtb, wbom lon>r association witb hnglisb society has
n.ndcrcl Kn-lisb. 'A" engineer of great talent be bus
dniust wboOy e..nstrnctod tbe '(Jrand '1 rnnk Kadvva
i. oU-ant mansio.i is a model of tasto an. ot con.tort.
It is, intone word, wbat tbe bouso ongbt to l.o ot sucb a
man as bo, wbo can ..tier and kn..ws l..m t.> bost..w tbe
mo-it courteous b.isi)itality. . , .. • c
1 bavo visitcl tbe barracks of tbe six batteries of
artillcrv pla.-e.l in garrison at Toronto. 'I Ijoso wbo are not
tv tb Knilisb sol.liors will witb ditlicu ty torm an idea ot
the adndrable onlor and neatness wbu'b prova-l bore.
Tbo borsos, all of (\ma.lian race, are magniticent animals,
treated witb a solicitude an.l care wliicli struck mo s.)
mucbtbe more as 1 bave BtiU present "1 "^v memorv tbo
brutal eruel, and improvi.lent manner witb wbi.b . Iia\ c
^ ou ;"valry borses troate.l. One oi;tbo cheers tbn.ugb
wboso p..litenc's 1 was able to visit m detail all tbe bar-
racks, intr.xluco.l me into tbe mess-r<i.mi wbore tbo oihceis
take tbeir meals. A piano in one corner two oratori..s ..
Han<lol, and lying in an.>tber corner, as it it was »f ';;i'';';
of being found in sucb good ecmpany, my bumble Cia.lU.
'^Tn tbo coacb-bouses wbero all tbe barness was, I was
astouisbed at the caro witb wbieb every bit ot loatlier is
polisbed, every steel buckle cleaned ; an.l nevertbok^si
trroat .leal of tbe barness is ten years old, an.l bas boon used
fn tbo Crimea, baving been in service at Alma, Inkermaii,
an.l tbe Malak.,tt-. "in spite of all tb s they look new
iloar.1 in a music store tbe fantasia on 'l.a Muette, pla^o.!
bv a cbarming young girl Miss C, an ^^'^^^^^ll^J^:^
:e.narkable streugtb an.l clearness. I/^'^^. f V',^^^^
because it is tbe lii-st case of native talent wbicb I baN e
met witb in Canada. , . ., „
Second concert. A great deal of entbusiasm; nevertbe-
loss we neitbcr played nor sung so well as yesterday.
May 13.
Left Toronto at half-past twelve for Saint Catherine,
wbore we arrived at half-past four o'clock in the atternoon,
26
r*
302
NOTES OF A PI A SI ST.
It poured rain, Tlio nrotty Jiiontli of May fintii.ncH to
hold its own. r liavL' lu-ard wud tliat St. Catlicriiio is pic-
tinvs(|uo! I sc'i'k in vain to discovor the beauties of a
country wliieli I liave heard spoken of so liijrldy. As well
seek the beauty of a woman in sprinj.;; dress who should
liiive accidentally fallen into the water, and wlioni somebody
lias just drawn out. The water filters through the door
and roof of the diliu;ence. The streets are lakes ; the trees,
the houses, the hed_t!;es are vaguely detined throutrh the
compact lines made in the atmosjihere by tlie drojis of rain
driven by the wind. The only inhabitants we meet arc a
young lad and an old blind horse, the one carrying the
other, and wading and splashing furiously to get under
shelter.
We shall not make our fortune here. Bt'hrens, wlio
undertakes, ail iiikriin, the functions of agent, having gone
to the otHce for the sale of tickets, in a part of which lie sees
my portrait, inquires "Is it hero that tickets are soldV"
The proprietor facetiously answers him (unkind man),
"You wish to say where tickets should be sold, for we
liavc not yet sold one."
Seated before the stove I am reading' John Marchmont's
Letracy' (another romance where lawyers and chicanery
form the subject of the book). AVlien will the time come
that English' romancers shall cease to explore the Court f)f
Chancery, and the ' Police dazette' ? It is sad to see nioiu'y,
iu(wey,a"nd always money, the moving sirring of all romances
from 'beyond the sea. A will, a chanjre of lieirs, a false
heir, a fraudulent will; no heirs, no will; and you have
'Orley Farm,' ' Xo Xamo," Woman in AVhite,' 'Aurora
Floyd,' etc. Take away the money and chicanery of the
modern English school, and see-wdiat remains. You will
reply to me that French romances, which speak only of
love, are immoral. Granted. I do not love romani'cs,
but if I must choose between the two passions, in view of
the eflects which they jiroduce I should choose that which
at least awakens in us noble ideas, gives birth to noble
sacritices and self-denial. But then I was reading before
the stove, and Max was meditating, after having read the
last news announcing a fresh Federal victory, a plan for a
concert campaign against the South, when a bass voice re-
Tin: COLLECTOR OF HER MAJESTY.
303
[ay f'l.ntiiiucsi to
Catln'riiio is jiir-
10 iK'iiutu'rt of a
liirlily. As well
hvss who should
wlioiii soincliody
iroiiji'h thu door
hd<i's ; tlier tivi's,
ic'd throiitrh tlu-
tlie drojw ol' rain
its we mt'ct are a
:)iie earryinu; the
<ly to get under
. I^t'hreiis, who
jcnt, haviii^c; gone
; of whic'li he sees
iekets are sold?"
1 (unkind man),
he sold, for we
ohn ]\hu'('hmont's
rs and ehieanory
ill the time eome
[)lorc the Court of
t sad to see money,
ugof allromanees
3 of lieirs, a false
1 ; and you have
AV'hite,' ' Aurora
chieanery of the
mains. You will
ieh speak only of
t love romances,
issions, in view of
L'hoose that whieh
-ea birth to noble
•as reading before
r having read the
■tory, a plan for a
en a bass voiee re-
quested to speak to the agent of Mr. ( ioltschotf (why are
they so ohstinati' in making my name a Kiissian naine'f).
Tile new arrival is a pomjions, fat, short, iipoplcetie indi-
vidual, who had no need of announcing hini>ellas '•cdllec-
tor of Her Majesty's customs" for nie to know that I hail
tin' honour of seeing before me an ollieer of the Kni;Ti>h
govcrnnk'nt. 'flic colU'ctor of He:' Majesty has tlu' im-
portant anil dignitied air of a judge who is just pronoimciiit;
a seyere sentence. Jle addresses Strakoscli with tluit
horrid tone of perfidious i)olitcness with which theattoriiev-
gt'iicral examines a culprit whom he wishes to make con-
tradict himself. " Voii have two pianos? Ilcy, 1 say, tiro
liiaiios, hoth yours, and only one on the permit."
''Ves, we have one piano which we have not declared,
not desiring to pay duty, since we onlv remain two davs in
Canada."
"Ah! yes, I see, certaiidy. TFas not Mr. (iottsdiolf
played with great success at'Toronto? I have heard par-
ticular mention made of a piece for two iiianos which
electi'itied the audience !"
"Yes, sir," answered Strakoscli, "the grand inarch in
'Faust.'"
J la- ]\I<iJrst)fs officer. " For two [lianos ?"
Strdkosch. "Yes, sir."
Contracting his brow, and in the attitude of the lawyer
of the ojiposite party who lias just discovered something
injurious, the officer said, " Two pianos, sir, and you have
only paid duty on one. The (iuet'U, sir, cannot thus be
robbed, and you will have to pay the duty. The (^leen,
sir, will collect the duty."
Strakoscli, vexed and beginning to get tired of the char-
noter of iiKpiisitor which tilis old 'imbecile assumed. "IJut,
sir, this is absurd. You iniglit as well collect a duty on the
clothes which I wear aiid seize them I"
The otticer, indignant and red Avith offended dignity.
"Seize your clothes, sir! The (^ueen, sir, would not do
such a thing. This language is very indei-ent. I shall be
obliged, to my great regret,' to ])rcvent you from using this
instrument this evening. Seize your clothes !"
A dispatch arrives next day. lie has seized my [liano!
Decidedly, this would have undeceived me, if I had ever
804
yOTES '>/' -» I'fAM'^T.
**
I
KH'n ubU' to tamo tluH <-..lK'..t..r. .
fii-Htboii.'li, witmy c-..lkrtoi-.
,,.ra ..f .■v.-l.:.!!,!-'.-^ "'l-l' ;■' ''."- ' ;' ,„,,u. At I'liila-
AVc nro ju>t clo^slnJ, »,,nn'iu <''on us which is
that inc-ommmhlo "^"'»»""^:,;^V ,','"'' ^u\,t visit to
callcl tho k agani ^^-^^^ m ? bonUor to spc-ak of
XM.Ki-.i-'i was in l)o('Ciul)er with AKiiu. v^omui ^ i
^ -^ 1 f .^1 Tho country is inundato.h A travi- Ut a\ ho
rain soenis to hicveaso ^'■^^'^^'H^l -^ ,,.^^, ^.^ who would
J
Nnri:s o\ r.i.v.i/).i.
n05
(. Avlu'ii tliry <'()in-
juHtf*. 1 liiivo n(»t
'riu'iH' wciv fifty
•il, and for uliom
i-rt (»f ri'ct'ipts, wo
luiilu'tuv, on tho
iiriaii spirit wliidi
IS, iiiiil tlii'V iirriyo
ii-olili'iiis wliirh in
nomists, 'fill' sy^'-
.lici-s of iiiusif in
•uui.U'. At riiila-
)r of music, u;ivys
of a tailor, who in
; wiiolc j-oarl At
1(1 i>;i\H' liim tickets
pi-ofossionally f«>i'
=1 nmrvol of science,
an genius which is
. ]My last visit to
Cordier (to speak of
L A traveller, who
me that the lower
erireihand that thoy
onthofMay!" The
t was wc who would
:ry editor? Here is,
as suggested on my
he most ahominahle,
his piano niul draw-
ls," Ah, Strakosch !
nd let us hope that,
5 venom, this terrihle
daily duty without
i-sive and Corkoniau
theories of lllll^i<•. For iiiv «'wn part, T ask no moiv ol
lilin ; and 1 admit that, if f had had a-^ mncli to «oiiiplaiii
(if iVoni one of his employes as lie luul of Strakosdi, 1
should have heeii still moiv'scvi'iv on his prose than lie has
Ikvii on my music, ami, piiliai>s, neither of us would iiavu
(Innc wrong.
I'.rilliaiit concert at Hulliilo.
1 have taken a miillitiide of notes on Canada. W iiat _ii
fii'-hlfiil <()iintrv! It is enough to let you know that it is
i-Miitiallv Catholic Irish and French (what Fivncli?
I.nw Normans of the scvcnttriith century) vicing with
each other in fervent rage, that is, as to wliich shall have
the most churches, Hcrmoiis, monks, and ot white, hlack,
and -•ravnuns. The Ohlatc Fathers, who promenade (^lehec
in their iilthy cassocks, are only hypocritical forms oiit-
rauconslv rnhiciind and (uly, or igiiohly emaciated and
famished. The pulpit is a throne; the eonl'essional a
citailcl. I despair of humanity. (^iel»ec_ exhales the eii-
fei'ldiiiij: higotrvof a iiopuhition preserved in ignorance and
hriitislmess. 'iMio children are weakly, and there are many
idiots and deformeih The skilled native pianists halaiice
hetwcn 'La Yiolette' hy ller/.t an<l 'I'Ange di-clm' ot
Kalkhrcimer. Tim Chevalier (Jouanere is a genius. La
llarpe tho first French poet. The old Fri'uch famil '.s
Avho possess property are called 'Ja'S Sagiu'urs de St.
Herein, do la iMontagiie, ou de St. Maurice' The popu-
lation of Lower Canada— hase, la/y. slavish, and supersti-
tions— is despised hy tho English. Jt returns it in jealous
hatred. Kvc^ry Sunday in the sermon at high mass this
phrase invariilhly reai)pears : "Aliove all, my chddren, do
not sully yourselves hy entering the threslu.ld ot those
di'us uf iierdition called theatres." They permit magu-
lanterns, the circus, and iiui)pet shows.
The [)olka is Ibrhidden ; the waltz prohihited ; the lan-
ccre is tolerated. Judge of the intellectual level with this
riyhnc! The women ^ire thin, with sallow complexions.
Tiie walls, the houses, the streets distil nnita. Lveiy
moment young men are seen in long hliie surtoiits (the
old Levite) with vellow ediringC.) and green scarfs wound
around their waists. These are the college students,
which, it is useless to say, are directed hy the priests.
2G*
r
.,^^^. yOTKS OF A riAMST.
II tu.h,... ;/';';i:i^:if:riJ;;!:;;':;;'h;;l;l>-
,„i„nl, »l..".' """'■' ""■-* >"';.'■,, ..i.Tiinl In.lhC!!.
I;,,!,. ,U,,.I, K„a l.H .v.;;.;;. ;■;,■,■;, '|n,l,w„y ,;..l.l-r.
TIb'V liavv limiUll .1 (h. 1 " .' liik.w.Mii. m\
,.„„. l.nm;i "..IH k; -; , ' "U-uu.i ... ><i. iv"('
K.;'; wi, 11- -1';: /;v:;;;;.*H„."' 1 ,..;'• ;' 'n-ii-'v
*'i;fpoii.i.^iiu,- -rui ,.iay.;vi;wii--:;/':«;!;;f ;;,,„;');:;
,ec.n. t.. 1.0 taken ''•''''\.';,;''' , \ .,? u- fiu.l tlH.iron-in n.
uru (krivcil.
Hero mm again tvavollin. ai^or a Ion, JM-^
,,.,,1 ,,,,ose four niont hs ^^1* |-"^;' " c, ,, ...m, folLnvixl Uv
many others, »^^"vf ^''^ ^'L *'V\V.V' r !^.,.-,t-„,,^r ton or twoUc
;.v,i. for the ', Athu.t.o Mont b , , ;" ;;„'^,,,,„a i,-u..vs
letters .hiily, ni ^■<>"n'*'r*"f' ,,,u^, t ,o a-is of a b.-rrowed
ir ;i^t\sZlJ^U;;ui:r:;U.,!r\vhieh are ^u. ..out to he
J I nf ' 7 Octaves' Bomu
. T1.0 .nn.or --P'-;-;;^:';onxj;;£:r;hau hi. ordinary ones,
cliarming liUlo piecos, but luo.c .a^y
an.isn itau.w nrnn.i coMrAsy.
ao7
•i.iiiit t'l' li'if* iiiif^t-r-
•tiTiiiil tnilliCM.
ms, luki'W.iriii nti'l
,U,.,1 to St. VvU'Y
wiii(l"\v t)t' a 1>(»<»K-
Woun' (.1 Tl.allKr,U'
uto the wIk'U' I'H'-
iuiIki- of liyiiiiirt to
.iHinuMVixu'.' Tbo
•V cvi'iiini: ('""■"'■ ''■■'
,-H i.o(Miliiinty n\>on\
,,,h,ir. Do tl.ry ii«-t
l>,ui'l«U" K.Hk"f Oil
V tiiitl tliriiM>nu;in m
,„,Um. TIh. KiTu.l.
,u«s,l.ntonly ''y <''*■'"'
ily colonists of LoWt'l*
tiifso singular uaiuos
Novembor 1, If***-*.
Llont; iri'oso, if I "'.''>'
vrtsj.ut tilled \n Nvith
Sarato'jca, f<.llowi><l by
proofs', scriWl'linsX »"
iWritiiit; ton or twelve
ow con>nil)an(l I'U'ccs
ho iv->is of u borrowftl
rthich if not gocd aiv
1 are just about to be
P vlnm,' of ' 7 Octavos' Bomo
u£u than hi. ordinary ones.
lai,n.'l.e.l int.. tlu- serene eternity ol ..bli\ lo,., or n.to the
ocean of erilirisiuiiiHl niiil.'volence
" ,, „„.,, •„, „,,i„,,a H.onll. n.ro,n. a ebantv .•on-
.,;,';l.;ani.e.l by ..me h.ii-. ;-'i i"'?''*,^;;;'.. ;::;
..l.uritv eon.-erts an-l iVoin V.vh patrom-.e;^ . ... at. at
li^l.t an ab..se, an-l the .,,ublie .ares ht.le M 'be art s
ba. ..rlias not !jlm> his ^-rviees. (lb-re speak ot lb • I... -
I^MH I'ubru/ To relate the eon.-ert ol W ollenlnu.pt.
Ilissi'tl outravfeoMsly. . i/. ,,,
I met here .lay before yesterday ' The Assoeiat.d ( o,,,-
,,anv o tist/ T.sta and bis wife, the tenor Melani,
„i:.,andNladana.I.oriMi,and.b.-Nlaestnv >-^^^^
of uastronon.ie an.l punnin.^ n.ena.ry It .s tl';' N l*
fMi Devivowbo nianauces the ulmlo tbni-. I i> t'oni-c
;;:,;,;; ;,ms itself ..ntluM|.ybills HJrandltahan,.^^^^^
Conipanv/ Their list of plays consists ..I h.;satoi ,
' ei" Ln.re/.ia; and many otheroperas. 'erta.n male-
V spirits miud.t p<'rbaps remark that the absence ot
. ises'and of orchestra, ..f decorations, an.l o basso pro-
f 1 was injurious to the etle..t, but .n ret nrn, tb.- i.lavn.,s
,.:i .^ imKMle.l bv these mr..sKori..s K'nus sin-nlarly in
vvm' yf ^llu.T.-/ia;"lPuritani;and-Pr..vat..re .•anal
be j.lav.d tb.. same evening! the whole m tw.. h.'urs and a
'''M'itn.'v^
nanv' L'ave ' Liicr.'/ia.' In the supper s.^en.., wh.-n Ma.l
C a nmies t.. tlu. passage of ' Vaso .r..r..,' she S;'y- '^t
tl e .^.Id an.l silv.-r vase .-f the Uorgia amounted to a bh.e
; hu; pit.-h..r of wat..r an.l two tuml ers ;'-,;•;;;;'-.
au.lien..e, wl... di.l not un.h.rstaiid a bit ..t Its laii, noi o
1 . ; = . put np with the glass for the ' Vaso , '..n. (cup ot
J,l,). Mad.' Testa, .m seeing the Ih-in.hsi sung with
'^1 i Hin-nilar ..up was tak.-n with a tit of aught.-r which
." uJht bv Ors..nigo (iennaro. The a,al,..nc.s hmku^
tl at the lauu4,ter was a part ..f the ..p.'ra thought the p. e
„mrvell..usly played, and laughe.l till th..y ••n^;'\» " /''*^
opc.ra ..f ' huere/.ia' en.le.l anu.l the applause ..t he hall.
' I another pla.'e Loon..ra ('Trovatore ) was i..rewarn.;d
tbat she must not .li..; an.l wheretbre? " JJeeause y..u w,U
be .)bliir...l after falling <lead to g.;t up and go out betoio
the au.lieuet., since there id no eurtam.
308
NOTES OF A riAMST.
tenor
ererc' of 'Trovatore,' l^^'^; ' f , \: ^^, ^o with .o nuu-h
Luna and Aznoona ^'-^'^'^^^\^^^ that the task of
pinunii,-!; this hinicntaoic ai^ i l „,, corporal coni-
,lo;.k of the altar f-^^,^^^^ to the co,\stcrnatlon
mcnccl to his .-rcat ^'^^^^^''^Vof thTcWtcrs (the Cointe
of tlKM,rc4K'straa'>^'l^'-';''\^V^"^\?/,;!^^^'^;^^;;!S^
Mo,..,«,l Ito "««- 1 '■■™! U ' !:„„ ami took o1,a,-go
was ;"'i;^rf= t whcmc vas the merry connmnion ot my
regret the tunc ^y ^ \ ^^ ' ^^ ^.^..^^^t of-the atllH-tion-Avhu-h
comrany. Ihis is P^iJ -^ l^j'^^ ^^ ^^^ ^i,,, .a.k-.l that, his
he has for "^*-^/^^\t^^J^"'^,i\\, ^"l^, .U h or German, lieh-
companions not spcakmg einiti i^u^n-
reus can no more perpetrate puns. Novemt)er 29.
Concert at rrovidence, poor enough, rrovidenco is de-
cidedly going Ijehindhand. November 30.
n ,.,.t ot -Roston Yerv great success. Morelli sings
Conceit at ^^^ton. n e y g ^^ ^ ^o the old
remarkably well, lie '?^^;'"»"'/ " .,,^.,..;i., to be ignorant
sch...l of :^-^f;^^^^^ ^Zl «crea^^ to be
of the axiom ot tlie_ \ euustaa luai ^^
a consunnnate vocalist. December 1.
, T^. 4. Tv^;.i.1 .nidience. Fdi'cs to iiud'C
less, passably.
BOSTON, lSTELUi;EyT, LITERARY, I'oU^UEU. 309
vQi\ with a ^w^ovh
horns in the ' Mis-
t*. The Cdiiite »li
,nce witli f"> ii»uc-h
in that the task of
devolved. (I'ho
The corporal eoin-
D the consternation
oristers (the Cinnte
having inipertnrh-
llis snceesrt was
connected with it.
it, and all their snh-
pnrpose to ai»i>laud
I lowed next day the
o-ive 'Trovatore' at
'Miserere' with some
her and took charge
id Azneena accepted
nt they escaped into
at was ahout to take
■ri me. that the ett'ect
L'hrensl he seems to
ry companion of my
)f the atfect ion- which
i also added that, his
iish or German, 13eh-
November 29.
[i. Providenco is de-
November 30.
access. Morelli sin^s
iiii'h young, to the old
,^il)ears to" be ignorant
ou must scream to he
December 1.
dience. Faces to mnke
I trot along, neverthe-
Conccrt at Boston. Great success.
Docomber 2.
DecemUor 3.
Matinee in the ' Music HalF with the grand organ. .1
nlavs remarkably.
'■ " Poc't'iiilicr 4.
Adieu Boston', vou arc stift", pedantic, exclusive (Mr. D.
is it ouX) Your enemies say that you are cold and
1. Its ^I'l^;;-' ,,. J . ti^^t vou are intflhgent, literary,
;;;;;Xl ; t . '^^ol^'p^lantry, if yon have any, would be
Ix'n.sable, if it had produced only the grand organ ..t the
Mii<"i.. Ibdl that li'lorious monument.
^iXm u ve'mu.h like.l to know L<v,.gt^-llow person-
all v'bu his habitual nK.lancholy, and t^'^' 'l''-'^^?/ , ^^
'""\\-e lv,vo no tn,.liti«i.» i" AiiuTi™. Aiohyol,«.v. Il.e
„ot appeal to our in.agmation I haxe ''^^V^ /;, , j,
„wi a.Hl .l»>ly Kla.lc «■(. me to ,la.a„n„g. All u.J
"■Ti;:;Xn'^"T;;t'"^i^M-«'vt7;i.!;w;*-
nf \ir.eric-i It is delicious in our epoch nt palatial stoics
t ^ ^iu one of those old shops, dusty, -nduv con-
Lling iiider their antiuuity that poetic pcrtume ^shuh
810
\OTKS OF A riAXl.'^T.
..hvavs is as.(.ciatiMl will, tl.c- i.a.t. llcir i;''^\\\"^':";''';f '•';^
ir^;;^ v^- Ivhit.i';, t^o ...10.110,. (iuak.. .11.1 ti.o
s. ne l.n .-.l l.v Fi.Ms to siK.n.l tin. .v.nn,. with n.n,
T u^:t t V the •int.lli.vnt aristorra. y of l'>osto„. Jl.u.t
ho U -Itnu. ,c.n,v paint..-, H.>lm.s, th. =.>';ns.nK n^l
ns..n.a a,.thor of th. 'Aut.uM-at ot »1- •,'; ;'\ r^, '^^ ^
' , nniiv otluM-s. Tho ir.iuM'o.is hosi-itaht) ^^ Ui< U .M.i>-
1 1. Xr to hcM- trncts is worthy of th. vr^.nU.Uou whu-h
1. as La a..swo,-s to tlu« iaoa wlu-h o... to,.... v..l.n.
J riU f tho ...Ituiv a..a .u-ha..ity of the s.n-u'ty ot the
fi.llow ai.a his win-, two a.hi.inil'le hoaas. 1 ^^' l'>"i i ;\a>,
'Uai'uiatc4toi,.s,i.vth....cao.li...svo.-s^^^
Tlinhp-ia of Loi>'>-fcllow answi-.-^i tho idoal an h yli \\t i'>n»
ot- a W 1 o Nothi,..,^ oan ho ...o,v ..oMo tha,. tho oo,.-
o,.r of . s^ ia-o, n.o,-o hirn..o..io..s tha,. tho .-ah,, wh.c-h t
iMvathoshalf voiloa h. tho aopths of tho .„.n.o,.so workl.
^V;,!i;;'i^^t;r\iSiovv .a. a portrait .inoh fro,, a
i; ; .'. r to<.k tor that of 8on.o Italia,, of tho Ro,iuissa„ro
a,sta„<v ' ''y \" !^,.„i ,.t tho hottoni tho lithogi-aphod
l:;r:;ft^B,;do;^;ir.ignod i..anorvous b,.t logiblo
At.Mx.i .T ,j,j^^ ^^^_,^^j^ 1^^^^. ^^^ iianason.o, not so
^'''■t "'^''^Vli-ltof Jon.S:w';>s.ti,(:t-h. Tho swollo,.
:; natKs^ ; ia hi;! c;.on.iJs say Iho etfoot of opi....^
; ,. Is a, oa.doV .vo,\vhioh Avorthily cn.wns a ho.-oio noso.
M, Fioa.:whoso :-ollootion of a,.tog,-aphs is vory no.
.hol-i n.c a:.. o,.ti..^-haptor of !>->-- ^.^^Xfaon
r..s..„,hlos friiitloss offorts at sky, sii.oko, and toUagt, dyi.c
hv^m o a loss a,-auirht....a,.; ahor an uttontivo oxa,..i.|a-
L i i oo voro.l that tho spi.-als whioh looko. hkc smoke
Wa u rinirs whi<-li I l>aa takon for olouas wore he
a t o.-'s mothoa of orasniv. Ah to the lolmce it a j
5 ^^J,.^s manner of writi,.g I n.ust ^^^-^^J^'^^
1 .,. was m.u-h mo,.e of smoko a,.a ^<f^,^V^^^^^^
f.,li,.ro which i.rovos to the adn.irors ot tho flowing an.i
a .' r, i;.Vstv o\,f l)ic-ko„s that it is not witho.,t pohshn.g
« "::iaori...,a,..l ha...n.o.-ing, swo,,t '^-^ '-' '^^^
l,erto;;tiou a,KUimplic-ity are arrived at, and that m httia-
M.r.CESAC SEW YORfERS!
811
[a wtl ionic's first
Imiittcd to tlii'iii
(iiiiikcr, iliil thu
I'liitiii' with liiiii,
r)()slon. Jlniit,
111' aiiiusiiiiX :i!itl
I'.ivakt'iist'PabU','
lity wliii'h Mrs.
rcimtation which
one iornirt vohiu-
society of the
[lortrait of Loiig-
Tlio liittiTwas
rsoof 'llyiicTion."
il -which \vc form
)Mc than thocon-
:hc cahu which it
• imiucusc worlds
it. which from a
f the Renaissance.
the lithograplietl
rvous l)ut" Iciiible
lantlrtome, not so
M-h. The swollen
le effect of opium)
twnsii heroic nose,
•siphs is very rich,
»"s mannscript. It
. and foliage, done
attentive examina-
looked like smoke
!• clouds were the
he foliasie it was
acknowledge that
nids in it than of
i)f the flowing and
without ])olisliing,
t and troul)le, that
, and that in litci-ar
ture as in mineralogy the diamond does not sparkle until
after it has heen polishi'd. ■,, . i
n.wton possesses what New Y<n-k has not yet ol.tamed
two comvrt halls, which are in no wise interior t > any ot
the lai-'cst con.'crt halls in the world, and which, as to
ac.usti.;, I consi.ier superior to the hest of this eonlmcnt
•u.d of the old world (TreiMont Hall and Music Ila 1).
I'.csi.lcs 1 love pedantry and vanity when they engencU'r
such results as the trreat orsraii and the bronze statue ot
licethoven in the library. O Miwenac New ^ orkers, who
hoa^t of the irolden patronage you accord to art,_wliat are
your titles'? ' Is it perchance that usurious enterprise w.iich
i< cilled the 'Academy of Music,' by which you will draw
iVoUL the impressario a double tax under the torm ot exorl)i-
t'liit rent and irratuitous admission? ^ ou kill the opera at
X,.w ^'ork, vou place the impressario m laco ot this
dilemma, to be honest, that is t.. say, become bankrupt,
or to i.rosper, that is to say, rob his creditors. n view of
the ultimatum we are not astonished at the litte hesita-
tion with which the greater ].art have ehosen the latter
alternative, and we consi.ier that you are ri'sponsible for
the ruinous deception prac-tised upon tne poor artists wiio
have not been paid.
December 5.
Concert at Ilarrisburg. Charming audience. '
December 6.
Brilliant concert at Tittsburg. They take here de-
cidedly. I have never given a concert here Avhich did not
i.av nie. I plaved upon a s(piare, piano, my graiul not
having arrived in time. On commencing I cast a look o
i/itv on it. "Poor little thing, thou dost not know wliat
•iw'iits thee." But the valiaiit little i-iano did not flincli,
iuKl sustained the assault without losuig a string or a
hammer.
312
yOTES OF A I'lAMST.
CIL\PTER XIX.
AVe tnivollod from llamslMirc: to Pittshnrir l»y niiilit;
not a slcv])iiitr-car, tlK' woivt wrutlicr in tlio woil.l, .•..1<1
and rainv, an<l foiirti'i'n hours union,!!; soMicrs, sniokin,u\
Hin.'-in", swcarinir, and dohiL- all ni.irlit. \\>v tlicir <.\vn yWn-
miv, i^vmtl)inii-" tlia could l.o most .lisatrnyiil.lo t.. otlicTs.
Onr fivili/ation lias some singular di-tiL.oncios. 1 lir-
conii'orts w!iu-li wo possi'ss in the inti-riorofour honsc-s and
in our hotels disappear as soon as we travel. Mi<j,lit we
not have nianv seats so arranired that hy payni.tr a little
more a la<lv and gentleman might he eertam ot tmdmg
duriiiii their )ourney the security and repose wliieli tlio
laws of our eountry give us a right to demand.' Is i
proper that vour .lauirhter, your sister, shoul.l he exposed
without intermission to the gross and protane language
and to theohseene songs of a mixed society which the want
of a divisioi' of seats forces you to suhmit ioi \ ou will
tell me that our repuhlicau institutions are opposed to tlieso
divisions. I do not think so. You A\ould have as much
ri..ht to force all citizens to have their hands calh.us an.l not
to'^wear gloves, r.esides, have you not tirst and second
clasH hotels? Have you not at theatres p aces suited to
all purses? One can he a repuhlicau and not like the
society of those who drink every five minutes, pick their
teeth with their penknife, use their fingers tor handker-
chiefs and eat sausaixe and keep you in rememhrance .1 it
throiK'-ii its odour a lonir time after the sausage has dis-
•inicared. Do not make a mistake as to what 1 thmk.
I am far from elaimiuL' an aristocratic privilege in iavonr
of the rich (of all aristocracies this is the most ahsurd and
the least lo-nc-aluhm T demand in the name ot civili/ation
an end of ''some kind to the ahuse which turhulent and
cross majorities exercise toward intelligent an<l \f^f\'\
minorities, whether it he in railroa.l cars or m the tieid
of polities. 1 do not intend to say, because u man can
ABUSES OF TURniLKST MAJOUlTIi:'^.
ni3
tlio worM, i'i)l(l
Micrs, sinokiiiu;,
tliiir own l>k'a-
vi;ililo to others.
•fii-.i'iH'ios, Tlii-
t'our lioiisi's aiul
ivc'l. Miirlit wc
• iiiiyintr a little
•rtiiin of liiuUiij;
■pose which tlio
deiiiiiiur.' Is it
oiild he exiio>e(l
iroi'aiie liiii,u;uairo
V which the \v:int
it to'^ You will
' ojiposed to these
(I have as iiuuli
Is callous anil not
first and second
places suited to
iiid not like tlio
inutes, pick their
rers for haiidker-
L'nieinhrance if it
sausage lias dis-
to what I think,
rivilogo in favour
most ahsurd and
ino of civilization
ieh turhulent and
jeut an<l jiolished
rs or in the field
.'cuuso a man can
pay more for a seat he must eo!ise(nu'ntly hehave in it
m.'.rc dcceiitlv than a I'oor man (far from that, for the
0(.iitrarv theory, alas! mi-i'lit he proved victoriimsly), hut
im.l.iMhtedly wealth, i>articularly in a new society, heinji;
treiicrallv the proof of social position, we shall he less ex-
posed aiid more rarely find neighliours who would tread
upon our toes, spit over us, smoke under our nose, swt'ar,
and take a siimMilar ]ileas-ire in distnrhinu us when wo
wish to slecj.. iindcr the jirotest that we live in a rcpuhlie
and that const'tpiently -very one ha> a riirht to do what
he pleases, and tliat "oik mim is as good as another; ho
who does not wear trloves having the right to make another
who does understand that he "is at least his eiiual if he is
not liis superior. All this is ahsurd and unworthy of ih
in fifty years this will have disappeared, and our children
will pitv us for having so long tolcrati'd sucl.i an ahuse.
Again, another thing. In order, midonl)tedly, that
ladies may he ahlo to avoid bad company, there are rail-
road cars, called 'ladies' cars,' to which men hv themselves
aro not admittetl. Von may imagine the logic which has
ja-csided over this marvellous iii'-ention when yoii see a
greasv immiirrant and his 'wife,' or your coachman
and his wile, or your cook, who have the right to
pass the gates of paradise, which are forhiddeii to you,_
if, perchance, you belong to the disinherited category of
bachelors. Then, again, the insolence of the yuhaltern
employes! Trollojie has perfectly seized this national
trait. Are you well dressed, the man in tattt'i-s, whom
circumstances accidentally give a superiority over you,
embraces it with avidity ; he reclaims his dignity, which
ho thinks compromised in tho presence of your geiitlemanly
ai>pearance, and crushes you with all his pleboian insolence.
A conductor in the West will never say, in speaking of
you, 'this gentleman,' but ' tliis man," particularly if, by
your dress and polite niannei*s, he recognizes in you your
superiority over him.
Wo accuse travelli'i's who dc» not speak of us advan-
taffoously of cxasrsreration and taking sides, and we hate
them so much the more as we ourselves well know that
they have spoken the truth; and we pardon with difHi iijty
those who discover our weaknesses aiul our oddities.
27
314
NOTES OF A PI AS f ST.
AVouM it not be more voas.Muil.lo fur us to corroot our-
''^int'tllnu- is the Piriningl^am of the Unito.! States. The
jH.trole.nn^vells have given an ^fy^^^^^^^^'^^^i:}'^^'
o its al.va.ly so great ^rospenty. It l'\-^^7'%*''-j;> ''' ,
(,r tiftv large steani faetones; two lunuhva steam oil
retim'r es; n^lmy eann<.n fouu.leries, one ot wln.l. h. n.ost
^nsi,lerable,lu;; <-ast the l="-J^-'7'':'>'r ^-'^^'-Vi^ ''":;;: ;v:
of pounds eaoli, an.l twenty-eight leet long. Ihe spetnla-
?ioi in oil are unl.ear.l of. A young Kngl.shimjj of
nv ac<^aintanee plaee.! his capital, .mo tbousan.1 dM ars
which he had with diffi.-ulty amassed m n small tia. e, lu
aiVoloum eompany. lu fifteen months his one hoi>
ean.l .hollars had Vain.Ml him seventy-hve thousan.l! ! A
O man aii.)r, whon, I know, l..>u.rht, three years a^o, a
pi^.;." of gnund in Pennsylvania whi-'h e.^st hlmtl^e th..u-
iand dollars. The nature of the s.nl gave l;';<'|';;^^' /; '^
wells, lie divi.le.1 his gr.)und into sixteen lots, ^ » 1 'ucd
a e.)mpany for expl.)ring it. They dug-the ml ICnn out
II s Id twelve-sixteenths at thel'ate ot thirty thousand
d Ihirs ea.-h, that is to say, f..r three lum.lre.l an.l sixty
Sand di Uirs, an.l at ti.e last date the tour-sixteen hs
whil-h he ha.l reserved was produeing lum seven hun.lred
dollars per day 1
•Wednesday, Dooembcr 7-
Second eoneort at Tittsburg. An immense ^-rojyd. All
mv nieees enwred. Spent the remam.ler ot the evening at
ff witli Mr.M.,musie\.ublisber,an.l two eharming French
o-o'.itlpmon G an.l T., pr.ifessors of singmg.
^'S on Lg;:in from'l^ittsburg ^ two o clcH-k m Ine jnoni-
ing. Ni-ht cold an.l endless. ■> c.t a sleepmg-car ! ( Id
am" one in the East imagine a railway company without a
Bleeping-car 1
Thursday, December 8.
1
Arrived at half-past ten o'clock in the nu nmg at C leNC-
ln„d It is bitter cold. The North wind blows; the lake
ill ' its rreat brown waves. The sky is wan. Some
a ert that deveiand is charming. I have alwavs ,.un.
U^ reml^ly dull. Besides, the 1'<>^^1^,;1-- »-;", 'llf ^
you have to feed on bread and eggs rather than perish w ith
CLFA'KLAM) AM> HMt IKH'KLS.
"1 ^
\ to corro(^t onr-
itotl States. The
liiuiry hniiulsion
ossi's to-tluy inrty
ii(li-»'(l Htcam oil
t'AvliU'li, till' most
■iifliinii: llioiiSiindH
no-. Tlir Piic'C'ula-
:; Kii<:;lisl\i.iiiii of
thousiiiKl dollars,
I a small trade, in
tlis his otic thou-
e thousand! ! A
throe years apto, a
■ost hi'ni ti\e thoii-
ve ])roiinse of oil
II lots, and formed
—the oil tlew out.
)f thirty thousand
unidred and sixty
lie four-sixteenths
dm seven hundred
inpsday, Doccmbcr 7-
niense ennvd. All
■r of the evening at
o eharming Freneh
ing.
,\4oek in the morn-
eeiiing-ear! Could
eompiiny without a
'liursday, Pcccmber 8.
i> niorning at Clevc-
ind hlows; the lake
ky is Avan. Some
have always found
hi're are so had that
ler than perish Avith
hnmrer. T am assured that the old hotel has heen rejilaced
on the same site hy a new one in tlie same style as tho.-e at
tlu' Kast.
heridedly, the die is cast. Cleveland is devoti'd to had
hotels, the hill of liire ostentatiously enntiiining an inter-
ininahlu list of dishes, not one of wliieli is eatahle. The
lish are too stale, the soup greasy water, the hutter rancid,
the turkey too tough; tlie ox has had to work too long
lu't'ore he'eame to give hattle to our jaws. lam helpeil
to a pi-eserve of such detestahle tasti' that I give uji eating.
Till' lea tastes of ehamomile and hay. Kverything is so
dirty — so hadly prepared! I hurry to get to ("hi<ago;
it is really \\w only eiU' in the West that has attained the
material eivili/ation of Xew York. Xo one can form an
idi'a of till' imi irtanee which a good hotel has for us. Wo
arrive ijenundii'd with cold, fatigue<l liy a long ride, and
hunurv. Let anv one think of the ilisapiiointment, may I
* • 111
not say despan-, in not tmdnig hre, re]iose, or good beds.
The eonei'rt this evening will he full. All the places are
already taken this morning.
Splendid concert; we have given a douhle ]irogramnie —
every jtieee having heen encored. My 'Cradle Song," which
I ]ilayed to satist'y a private request that reached me under
the form of a note, appears to have givi'n satistaction. I
took notice that silence eontinueil the whole time, no con-
versation annoyed me Avhile 1 played, an<l the attention of
the audience was not distra<-ted for a single moment.
I am daily astonished at the rapidity w ith which the
taste for nnisic is developed and is developing in the I'nitt-d
States, At the 1inu> of my tirst return from Europe I was
constantly deploring the want of puhlic interest for jiieces
juirely sentimental ; the puhlic listened with inditferenee ;
to interest it, it hecame necessary to strike it with astonish-
ment ; graiid movements, tmirsilr /Ii/w, ami noise had alone
the jirivilege in piano music, not of jileasing, hut of mak-
ing it ]iatient with it. I was tho_/7'/>/ Anu'rican pianist,
not hy my artistic W( th, hut in chronological order, l^e-
fore me, there were no piano concerts except in peculiar
cases, that is to say, when a very great name arriving from
Europe, placetl itself hy its celehrity heforo the puhlie,
which, willing ')r miwilling, through curiosity, and fashion
816
NOTES or A PTAXIST.
.atl.r than from ta.te, ,naac it ^^;^i:^,Zt:^'J^:^
^'^"•'""^' ;l'i'l^-"^^'' •■ '''; .;' v,S.'U tasU- is k;-...uin- purer,
n,ul with that rcinark.n.l. >' . ;^.;\ ' , „,, ..c.,K.rati..u-of
our who n i.rotrross. 1 t>r ton \ i ai^ a^ nn n r-_ , ^ ^, ^
^onn. KirlihaVc vlayo.l -^.I'-^^'^V. on 1 '^ 'c'.' h'- '
!;;;-j:i:i:e\c,;;;;iX-i:^^-<-
Av!,i.-h compose the proKnuunu' ^ ^.^^ ^^^
^^'^ f '••"'' ''^r;;X : "C s "^ull^ementl.!' civil,
action, hoar our pan in M-.^^^ ,„-iae in havu.- .<....-
izution, an.l 1 cunnot I dp ' ^ '^ - .\ „,,,,, i„ ,xtcn(l-
+„;K,if,..l \v t1\iu the luoilest linuis oi ni;v i'
and greasy soup,(loul)tKsrt Tie ^^ because niv tastes are
If, on the contrary, it prospe ., \}^\\l'J^ -^ ,.•. ..^^^ u is I
not like those of the majority. Um hotel i. i .. ,
who am Avrong. •„,. +^>,. nmnmerce of all kinds
The aptitude of the Amer.ean 1^> f ^"^j . ^,j. ,.i, „,i,,a
11 If ij liruvevi'r. less Tlic ieiiiin> vi
is luarvellous. It in »">_^\';'^ \1 ' To make money
than the sickly thirst *' J " f "'f, ';:^';i tn.lc is very useful
is the end of al '^^ U-olJ W ^v ilh re.p.ires that
in a society ^vhlch *;^™Vf tl\. c m mm ^vc.ll-l.ciuu^hut
every one should contrihute ^V,^^^' > ' ^j, ^a.sorl.ed in
it destroys all individuality, ihc^^^^^^^^^^^ ^,^,,.,^ i,^ ,1,
the collective ^vhole. ^^^^]^Ji,^^h.voycn\n^y^>^:^^
United states ^vould cert nV^ 1 na ^^^. ^,^^^,^^
of gold into the t^yV^f^. ?f'^,\,^,^' ^^ one of my iVien.ls
"Lamartme is poor, 1 ki .1 ""\ ^^f , . ^^^ ...^s ^o smart."
T.
ty to go r.nd see tlio
lU', tlu'V li:ivi' «'Vi'n
jj;s tli'V an- iiIiusimI.
U' islK'i'i>iuin|ii; imrcr,
iicli wo citi- tliroUL^li
whole trt'iu'ratiim ot
J.ast UoiH',' 'Manlie
doivllc c't C'avaluT,'
hii- tliat it is (lilHcMilt
, to listi'ii t(» iiu' 'vvith
or stu(Ui.'<l tin- iiiocoii
lay l>e our siilu-ro of
e Tuovi'UH'iit of civil-
j.rido in liaviuij ron-
iiiV jiowiTs in cxti-iid-
liTt- t)f iiiusif.
k-r liotrl. besides, I
that in th»' saim" way
\itions whifli tlifv <le-
U whii-h thoy di'si-rve.
d huttc'r,strin,ixyini'at,
i)uldl.>oconu'haiikrnpt.
bocauso luy tastes arc
3 hotel is riii-lit, it i^ I
conimeroe of all kinds
lie fertility of his mind
r.iev. To^nake money
aptitude is very usi'ful
il which re(iinres that
omiiion well-heiuichut
idividual is absorbed m
L'elliui, if born in the
have thrown his vessel
great statue of IV'rrec.
Y to one of my friends,
u.i-bt he was so smart,
n'n-y where they trive a
man. Not oidy do they
iiore, they think that ho
AyfF.nirAy aptitct'I: ron commi.uci:.
?,\1
has rendered a servieo to the eonnmmity m wliirh he lives.
For a Ion.-- tini(< 1 have considen'd tiiis as an anomaly, but
I have emled l.y exi.lainimr it in the followinjr maimer:
Thev think it kind of hini to have fixed m the eonnlrv llio
eapind which aiiiriueiits its prosperity. It is always utility.
It is this idea which inspires the newsi-apers m sinall towns
when, on tlu; occasion of concerts given hy gn^at artists on
their travels, thcv oppose tla'so invasions, and n'c(.inmeinl
onlv the patronl/iiiii t)f local concerts, because then the
iiu.ncy docs not leaVe the locality. ^ It ^ lerstandmg
civilization after the manner of the Chii
Sanmhky, Friday.
("(.ncert finite good. Kcalled after each piece. The
audience I'licored us all. [Soino officers who are at the li..tel
upcak of the 'show,' and a man came to the ticket ofhce
for a ticket to the panorama'.
Saturday, DecnmluT 10.
Awoke at live o'clock this morning. The snow is iivo
in<-hes deep ill the street. The hotel omnibus is lull— ^yo
are piled up in it. Wo set out, but the wheels are soon m
a rut. The horses pull ; the traces br(>ak ; tno horses cliate,
and leave the <-arriage in the road. Time presses ; we walk
as far as the station throuirh the snow up to our kiieis.
Un the road. Opposite Sandusky, on the lake, we aro
a],proaching .Tohnsou's Island, where twenty-five hundred
Southern pVisoners are eontined.
Left at six o'clock, we must stop at Clyde, a small village
thive miles from Sandusky, to await the train wlinh goes
to Toledo, where we have to wait again for two lumrs the
train which arrives at Detroit at half-i.ast six o clock this
evenintr. lu the ear I found myself alongside ot a Swiss
who has been living for four yeai-s at Sandusky. lie has
planted three acres of vines, and his harvest this year
amounts to twenty-five hundred dollars. Ills wme, which
I hav(^ tasted, is a little sour vet, but, without any doubt,
wi
he in a few years as good as any in Ohio,
e reach C!lyde. It is a hamlet which is
We reach C!lvde. It is a hamlet wliieli is comi-osed ot
warclK.uses for the railroad, of a hotel, and of twenty dwell-
in-diouses. The parlour of the hotel is ver)- eumtortable.
27*
31H
yOTKS or A I'lAMST.
\\\' tiiid ill it a luui.lsoiiu- stovf, ii w.fa, tnlt.os, aiul a pcr-
tn.it of ({rant. (Jnuit, 1 l.clicvi-, was born at >an<lusky,
aii.l viry naturalb' i'^ tlu- lai.U' of tlio State.
Aftor l.ivakfast wo assoinl.K'.l in tlio lower hall o tl.o
tavern around an inniu-iiHo nist-iron Htovo w iwl. ivMe'iis
an.l sin.i^^s j;aily to tlu' flaim- of tlie trcr trunks whuli aiv
thrown' into it ovcry (luartcr ot an hour.
r have boon talkinic to an old man who has tlio ap-
,„,,raiu'e of a poor farnior. Wo aiv (alkm.ii— I'-^tn .
'rho United States i.ivsonts to strangers this ivn.arkal.li
c.(m.riti<.n of thu.-s, that it is inipossihle tor them to e.m-
ieeturo from ai-pearaiuvs the rank orposition oi those whom
{he meet witll on their travels. If they meet with some
who sparkle with diam..nds and blow their nose ^vl ' < '^
tinkers they will mcvt a-ain with sui-erior and eul nat .1
;;;,;ids e..neeale.l under the fur skin f^reateoat -t ;-.';;;
neer of the ' Far Wost.' My i-omimiiion is wel ^<■'/^'^ '
the literature of the l'.ibk.. Ho loves ,;<.etry and evident U
understands it. Ho speaks to me with ^'"fl"';';!;' M \
poetrv of David. M do Lanau-tmo, whohas 'j)'^ l^'^ 'l^. '
he whole foroc of his style the' splen.lour ol t''^' ' - ';'
would have boon delighted in listening to iun i>l.l ^oin-
^'"'n;c'weathor is superb. The da^li.|g fnm. ^^^^^^^^
under the rays of a bright sun. The tram has an^ed--
wo et outtor Toledo; I manage with great trm-l' ^ - ^;^
a seat There are more than eight hundred pa^^ongol^.
Th gena'il aspect and physiognomy of the i;';'lf^ -;;;.
meets with in the^Vest otter a striking eontrast to tho^e ot
"lK> East. Nearly everybo.\y here lets his l-'an. ^inn .
Their elothes are eoarse without being poor. Iao}-
thing annonnees a great contempt tor i,,sh ion, ''"'1 l^ ' -
(whi'h is one of the peculiar traits ot the \ankee) ha^ la.t
much to do with their dress.
Sunday, Doccmljor 11.
Arrived at Chicago from Detroit after nineteen hours of
rulr..ad The snow is so thick that m many p aces it i^
[Wt^ to a height of three or four feet, an.l has obstructed
'^'chieL is always the eity of the West. We are to inau-
/'.
ill, tabiOH, and a |i<»r-
* born at San<lusky,
Stati.
lie lt)\wr hall of tlie
Htove wliicli rcdtU'ns
\vv trunks wliuh an'
111".
im wlio lias till- ai>-
iiiv talkihii— I'tatry '.
fcrs this ri'niarkahli'
"il)l(' for thini to (on-
Dsitionof thosi' whom
they uurt with son»e
• thi'ir noso with thoir
iliorior ami cultivatotl
gmitc'oat of tlic i)i«)-
nion is well versed in
i jioetr.v an<l eYi(U;ntly
ith enthusiasm of the
who has t\i\aly/e(l with
endour of the I'sidms,
ning to my old loin-
zlina; mow pcintillatos
lie train has arrived —
h ureat trouble to tintl
it hundred jiassengcrs.
uy of tho iieoplu one
ing contrast to those of
lets hi» beard u;row.
being poor, l.very-
)r fashion, and neatness
of the Yankee) has not
Sunaay, Docmlior 11.
after nineteen hours of
lat in many plaees it is
feet, and has oljstrueted
West. AVe are to inau-
i!irm:sr i:\it.\n:ii /.v //,/,/.vo/v.
aio
u-iiratoAfoore i^ Smith's lU'W hall. 'I'he tickets are all sold
ill iidvance. Kxeelleiit hoti-l, ' 'rreniout IIoumi'.'
Mcmiliiy, I>i'i'i'iiili('r I'i.
Concert, hall criininied l>iit the ainlience cold. I have
iiotiii'(l that an audience which iiiaugnrati's a hall is ireiie-
vally cold. 'I'hus also 1 have ne\ er Irmid any enthusiasm
where there was in advance 'high e.\|)ectution.*.'
Tiii'S(l;.y, DiTi'iiiticr If..
Second coi\cert. Audience v«'ry large and very lirilliaiit.
A irrcat ileal of enthusiasm. I saw there the richest farmer
in Tlliiiois. lie owns seventy-three thousand acres of arable
U-i'oimd; in one of his farms alo'ic there are twenty-one
thousand acres. He sold lat"lv in one lot twenty thou-
sand Ilea I of cattle. 'I'hcy talk of making a gigaiit ic canal
from th(. .Vtlantic »'oast, connecting the great central lakes,
and ending at Chicago, whi<h will thus enable Kuroiiean
vi'ssels to'land direi'tly at Chica<ro, elc\cn hundred miles
in the inti'rior of the country. Fifteen Inmdrt'd hoiisi's are
at this moment being built. The new Academy of Music,
Avhich a very young mail by the name of Crosliy is building
athis own exiionsei^his colossal fortuin'of two million dollars
having been made in two years from speculations in whis-
kev), will be inaiiirin-atod on tlu- seventeenth of next May
by the Italhin Opera Company which is at this moment in
isW Yock. Tlie new hall "will hold comfortably three
thousand j'ersous, and rivals in richness of ornamentation
that of ^ew York. The hihabitants of Chicago piH'tend
that they will establish a permanent Italian Opera Coiu-
panv in tlu! West. Notice to artists without eiigagt'ineiits 1
Nothiiur can give you an^' idea of the feverish enteri»rise
which exists here ; everythmg is done in graml style. The
stores are palaces, the hotels towns.
A newspaper attacks me heeause 1 play exclusively on
Chiekering's pianos, and thinks it shocking that 1 place the
maker's name on a plate that diroi ites the side exposed to
]tublic view, lie adds facetiously that it is asserted thai
I intend to wear, suspended to my neck, a j.hu'ard, n|ion
which will be iuseribed the name of my liivoarite maker.
^•20
jfOTi'.s "/•' -t ri.wi^T.
^■"SliaVw^Kiso tcnc is roln.Ht, .trong, horoi.-, nHj^l.tly
I it rirvol's Wss s..n..n.us hut i-octK^al im.l,so t.. .i^Mk,
.;";i.lirn.l tVunnuu., .nnvsi..>nds to the oU^ ac
II K a .1 'Trail o.-ani/ation of fhoi-m. '11umv_ a.v Y.>
•uv ".vlU.nt,uakc.vsiuAna.ru.a,aManiv..lMM^^
r) U-1 • n;^-r .t iH-nsc all <^lK.,-s a.v ba.l, but .....0 I
i 'i To. o, ii.H. an.l <U-licato, ton.lor and poftu- .crausc I
' in, in th. n>o.liti.atipn. of their .^mU.nsuu.rc
V ricl than those of othc-r in-tmmonts. Iho nouud s lu
fh . cxc -u ion of tlK- pianist what c-olours arc in pamtu.-.
A V ot 'c lino i.i.turos arln.irably di-awnwlucU nove.-
tlH Ic a .Ka. oil to us. Thoy are wantn,^^ m colour.
M u V ,.i' i< , wlH.se tlumdering exe<.ntion ast.nushes us,
^:;:Vt;;:C .h> not move ««; thoy are i,,.^au ot sound-
Drnvin.-- and eNe.-ution uro ac(iuired hy lahoui. «- o < u
alld sll.nui are horn in us, and are the outward expressions
of our sensibility and of our soul.
Sandi'sky.
Excellent little hotel. The hill of fore i. les^ andutiojis
than that of Cleveland, but more real, and we dmc^el>
CIIMtACTI It nr r/.wos.
m
jir ti) 1)«' iiii /<iit ill
liut in» piiiii", li*'''^'
'in willicut liuvinii
also ^lnmlll kiitiw
^ that lu' liiis jiivfM
but iii'tm Kranrrt
lis tiii<j;*'i'i^ "l"'" "'.0'
, ill Kraiins inSwit-
inv, ill TurUry, luw
(iV all otlicrjiiaiioj*.
list cdilof llmiks it
1 the maker ami tlio
1 iiidiico an artist to
III instriinu'iit wliieli
lu- natuiv of the »lit-
iihove sp(»ke'ii is iK't-
piaiKM wliicU tliov
nntr, lu'i-oic, Hliii'litly
.V iiowiTt'ul action of
ical ami, so to siicak,
ndri to the fli'giac
,iii. There are very
1(1 niv oiiinioii in that
of "Kuroia'. 1 I'lay
IV l)a<l, but because I
rand jKH'tic, because I
lioir sound, tints more
Mits. The sound is in
•louvrt are in jiainting.
y drawn which never-
i-e wantinir; in colour,
cecution astonishes us,
ire iiiiiorant of sound.
hI by labour. Colour
le outward expressions
Sandi'skv.
(f fare ia less ambitious
real, and we dine very
roiiifortahly. The name of the ti^h attracts the attention
of Moielli, who, iMioily imdeivlandiiii:' MiiuTish, isa^toni^hc(l
at the length of the name on the bill of fare, lie passert
it III us and we sn- on it, " Ki^ll could iml he hail in llie
market to-day." Xeverlheless Monlli asks tor it many
timert wilhoiit obtainin*; it, and coiuplains that they place
on the bill of fare wliat tiiey cannot jiive. "Why do
they amiouiici' this (ish whose nami> is so lonix'.'"
At hetroil— popidation, French Canadian. The accent
of these I'as Bretons of America is friu'lilful. 1 met hi'it'
a Frenchman who, after haviiit;' for a loiiw' lime sustaiiietl
a lawsuit against the («o\ernmeiit of the Inited tStatt'S
eoncerniiii; a j^raiit of land made by I.ouis ^k\'. to one of
his ancestors, has Just obtained a juduincnt which liivt's
to him, besides the land in (lUestion, tlainages to the
amount of fil'tei'ii thousaml dollars.
The Canadian shore lies opposite to Detroit from which
it is only separated b;, the river. It is a daniicrous
iieiirhbourhooil and obli cs the citi/eiis to keep U[t run-
staiit patrols, the rebels infestinff the Caiiadian frontiers, and
thrcati'niiii!; Ibr many weeks to make a di'scint here in
order to burn llie town.
Wednesday, Derombcr 13.
Un 7'oiitr for Peoria from Chica<:o. In the second class
ear where I have gone to smoke, I have conversed with a
Frenchman who, with his moiiki-y, is retiirninu- from
Orcii'on and Idaho. The first is a handsome jovial leliow
with black beard and resolute mien, lie was for ten
years in Illinois, where he emjiloyed himsi'lf in improvin^ii;
liis farm. Oregon and I<laho with tbi'ir inexhaustible
golden riches tempted him. lie wi'iit there four years
ago. He related to me his adventures among the mines;
tliey are very eurious.
Idaho is a vast gold-mine ; the precious metal is as jilenty
as pebble stones, but f/icrc is no inifcr, and nearly all the
adventurers who were able to get there are dea<l. My
Frenchman, who had for many months held on with four
other companions, abandoned the territory. They had
three wagons and for three months travelled through the
desert lighting every night with the Indians who harassed
yOTES OF A PIANIST.
clkHl from thirst or '-^^ \^ *^:^:^ .^^.'N./hhul their wa,un.ns,
ni.ht they iptronehe ^^^^^^^ triat.glo, and trom he-
wim-h they '\'-'''^".-'^;^,;V /' 1 ," e ux-turnal attacks. Arnve I
Inn.l xvhieh they '•^l'^'^;;^ Xm^emhavked on hoard a vesse ,
ixtSanlA-aiH.is(-(.inylMe nane ^^^^ ^^.^^^^^.^ ,,.
i^;.^-X;j::tKn they .t;vu^^ ,,,, a
11,0 i-oor little inor.key ^ R ^J -^ -^ ^„to his
..nils i.lly in a ---,,i^; \n;ntlanns. nuulhis
a nis, and the poor ^^tlo Jin ,^.^^^ ^^^^^^^ ,, ,,
i.oek and like a siek j-1 d ^J «'^^^, , ^ ^, ,^ ,„any negroc^
very l-retty little anu.al, t.s ir^> Us intelligence mueh
^^^-^'^^^;nS"'n;i;;^U-^^^^^^ taH^^^^at 1 an.
surpasses tuat oi j
acciuainted ^vith. ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^_
T> • ^ very u""lv ]»laee.
Coneert this ^^vening at Pooria -^^ 4,t 'v.i.e-story.
The houses are mean and lo^^\^,^^^ ,^,,tcrt hall oilers
The streets are ^\''^^\^>, j ;/";i,K.h is like a theatre, is bo
one peculiarity;-, the 1' '^^"^ ^^ '^ ^^ look down upon the
lu.di that it gives me the \u V > ^^^^ ^^,^ ,i,o,ji,i
Ifdience; wc all ^•^'^^^^^Pl ^X^,, ^.'nmeh that it gives
be drawn into tin al>>>^. J ' ^^1^^. ^^^ ^lexperieneed person
one a sensation an. logons to ii
upon a roof. , onthusiastic. Hotel passahle.
^ An.lienc-e nunK-rous ^ ;\? "'Vbo river is frozen and
Snow has ^^vdon dnruig n^in^ ; ,^^^^ ^.,,, ,tty w^mem
is covered with ^^"'I'V^'^,^;^ .• J];ble I foru'ot t<. say hat at
Their costumes are n"lesba>J'^-^^^'fo,f ,.,,,,, ,
the hotel the waiters are g - ^^^ ^^^^ emigration to the
I have read ma "J \^r; \^;j.a that two hun< red and
AVest is so great tl.at it is ^- !f ^^^^-.^ the last six yeai-s
^LT^t^^t>^^- and the Tacihc coast.
nunsETT norsE, cl\( lyyAii.
r two voars, an(l our
n«; Avhiskcy. Tl.cV
„H.s or c-urca:^sort ot
hoinsL'lvof^, who luid
,v the Iiiihauri. At
."himl their wai2;ons,
riaim-lo, and from ho-
,uvl attacks. Arnvod
kod onboard a vessel,
idred miners rcturn-
lUisions and perliaps
for it. 111
.rill"- with cold and
lus "taken it into \m
It its arms II mmWm
2 The monkey is a
r thaii many negrow
itri intelligence nuich
thont tails' that 1 am
TliurscUy, December 14.
^\ very ugly idacc.
most part one-story.
rhe concert hall otters
1 is like a theatre, IS so
to look down upon the
lie edge lest we should
( so niuch that it gives
an inexperienced person
Elastic. Hotel passable
The river is frozen and
;, l>ut few pretty women.
I forgot to say that at
[^sieged fortresses',
nt t1ie emigration to the
.,1 that two hundred and
ithin the last six yeai-s
and the Tacihc coast.
Xevertheless this region is so vast that this access of popu-
lation lias not even been felt.
The greater part of these emigrants have establisbi'd
themserves in the auriferous territciries of Colorado, Neva(la,
rtali, Idaho, and .\h)ntaMa. Uri'gon, Washington, New
Mexico, and Arizona have coni]>anitively few emigrants,
and Nebraska, Kansas, and Dakota have i>robably lost the
few which tliey had, gold liavuig more attraction than the
richness of the soil.
December 20.
At Cincinnati. The 'Thmiett House' is an imnu'nse cara-
vansarv, very dirty and very dear, where " h;.^ yon eat is
in the Inverse ratio of what you pay, that is to say, is very
little. It is at the eating hours at the JJurnett House that
one can best form an idea of the i>hysiognomy of the
Western people. AVliat is most striking is thefree and
easy behaviour of the men and women. The first wear
flat felt bats, covering badly cultivated heads. Their
lauu-hter particularly has something wild in it; it is a
shrill sound, which recalls the neighing of u horse ratlier
than the jocosity of a polished man.
CIIArTER XX.
I WAS jilaying at the concert the Kreutzer sonata of
Beethoven. The audience had greatly the appearance of
'coiiig to sleep. The next morning a newspaper says:
''We could ourselves have done very well without the
long piece for the piano and. viol' \'' It was notwith-
standing the same \ per that last ^,car was complauung
that we did not give classical music.
I'lay at Mozart Hall. It is a very large theatre; re-
markiihle for your being obliged to go up three stories to
"•et to it. While I was playing 1 recalled to !uind tlie
experience of the Swedish doctor^ I think it was, Avho pre-
'* *■
g.^_^ XOTES OF A PlAXIsr.
iVo/x' like a sorLct un( ^vla;•l> 1'^ '^ ^ ^.,^,,. i i^^eame '
house ../ Ao. to mal<o It rovjvo^o ne > ' - ' \,^,.,,i, ,Veoly
fri.^htonea on foelmK tl.o ^^ » ''^.^'^^ ^ ..'^.J .f M<./art Hall,
,vln.-h f =;;^:;f ^,f f iJi^pasB into the condition o^ a
ahvays'suspected of being an lee depot.
St. Lons.
, T^ 1 oo offor twcntv-tAvo hours' journey.
Arrivcd,Poooml)cr 22 a t^^c.^t^^ ^^^ ^^.^ ^.^^
I do not r^^"!^'"^^'^'l' ^''^1 '1,'r.n hours' d-'tontion. At
with<Mit meeting; ^vItll oiud t to Un on ^.^^^^, ^^^^^^.^^
Kielnnon.1, a vdlage m 'f J 'V^^^^ Jj ^^ ^.ot off the rails,
as the road was l'^*'^"^^^'^'/., ^J" L^^i' ;7,A-ows j^ot on the
and rash ^i^^e'TV^"^^- , , ^.i. „,, ^i.e hanks of the Mississippi
Arrived at six <\^^«^^."^" ' f ^ j, ^.tense. The station,
opposite to St. Loms. .^^^^^ ;'^^ .;,^. X-re the hoat lan.ls,
iAitead of heing oy-posite t <^^^ '^'J^ ^ ^,, ,,,ik on foot in
is a quarter of a nide ott, ^^l^i^^; '^^ Arrived at the steani-
boat, whose saloon(?) ^^ '^ ;;;\Sron packed together,
men, dirty women, and '^^/-^^^''^^.^J^^ ^.^r^elvcs into the
C^ro^ded. sutt^H-ated, we ^-^^^^^ ^^,,„ ,o charged
nndst of this crow.l, ^>"y^^,^; "^,, ^ i,)to so small a space
with the <^-^ffl?r^7^^t:^^ to that of heing
that we preter the n^lv oi ' »c ' ^ . p^,,^ j,, ^ppc'ar-
poisone(h ft.Loui8aBas.vd- okm^^ .^^^
Lee, the shops are ^^.^'^/^ '\i ^^.^^^.t cpiarters of the
LiyUEL'.. HOUSE, ST. LOUIS.
325
cj tlio tcmptn-aturc
us »ul)ioct uiitil it
reserved in an iee-
•s al'tiT. 1 became
•y ail- whieh freely
leof Mozart Hall,
11 of my 1>1o(m1; I
the eoiulitioii of a
iiliu-es in wliieli I
t lilane' and the
,it, wliieli I liave
St. Loi-is.
-tAvo hours' journey.
,-ellod on tliis road
Tars' di'tention. At
lited foi' four hours,
iig got ott" the rails.
i(H)r eows got on the
lee with tlieir lives,
,• ; hut for those Avho
dition of the road, it
ivel here is a perilous
ks of the Mississippi
iiitei\se. The station,
where the boat lands,
must walk on foot in
Arrived at the steam-
1 with soldiers, work-
ren paeked together,
iroe ourselves into the
lere is soon so charged
.<l into so small a space
ozen to that of being
citv. Poor in appear-
street richest in large
oorest quarters of the
he curbs of the pave-
ments arc broken, and wo recognize" the same holes which
wo had seen la>t winter. . , ■ ,,
The ' LiiKlell House' is itrobably, as to its exterior, 1 he
m.wt beautiful building of the kind to be found ni Anieric:i.
rnluckily, it recalls to me a .vrtaiua.lage which I < •'"not
i.xi.ress better than bv saying, that T should bke it better
if there were fewer columns in the corridors and more
chambers, less ruse-work ou the ceiling, UK.re tender l-ect-
steaks, and the corri<lors kept heated at a temperature
which did not recall the horrors of Captain 1 rankliu an.
his heroic compauions. At breakfast, it is our hrst meal
(for the last two days we have lived on cold pies and ajip es),
we literallv froze. The walls and ceiling are painted m
fresco, but\he furnaces throw out no heat.
The servant A\ aits upon us with a listless nonchalance,
hut he also briuii-s us the plates only ten minutes atti'rwards.
In summer ici'(l cotfee and frozen beefsteaks are perliaps
acceptable— but ui winter!
The result is, that Morrelli and T commenced a sea re li
through the streets for a restaurant. We discover a Y reneli-
man,formerlvfrom Xew Orleans, who gives us a genuine
/>rr/steak, aiul not a rv,//-steak, and relates to us all Ins mis-
haps whilst waiting on us.
There is a class of persons who wish to learn what was
the artist's intention. The artist is an instrunient through
which God inspires good things to men._ He is passive.
You mi.^ht as well ask of the sun his intention m producing
the marvellous effects of light and slia.le m a Ian. scai.e.
The inspired artist is like a key-b..ard which sounds cor-
rectlv under the tremor whi.-h agitates it \\ e, all ot us,
have in us a tinger-board, but some have Im.ken the .-..rds
of their soul in such a way that the tmger- .oar.1 no l..nger
produces a soun.l. Others soun.l false, although leeling
ivervthing deeply. These are generally those artists who
having a^livelv eoneepti.m of the beautitul,an<l a thirst
to express it, are not endowed with the taculty of torniu-
lating what thev fcol. Sonu^times by <_lint of slow ana
patimt researche;, assiste.l by their insatiable desire to ex-
press what they experience, they attain to creating some-
thin.r which approaches to genius, but the effort an.l the
"^ 28
r
320
yOTES OF A PiAsrsT.
lal>o,u- arc arraront, two .l.a.-kUs ^^ln g
k»OW. Spbinofiem., Illinois, Dooenan-r 20, l?*i4.
;..., Mollis turn', tlic andii'iico listoiis to
Concert tins ovonin.;:. ' ' f .J ;;.^^,,, cornpU'toly maskcnl
us. Last time lunate ^<'"\^''^*^!^ ^J,^ ^o enjoy what we
the n.usic. The an;lu.m-e -;' f ^ "/^.ion wVu-h, after
.ive them, hut it is to., late u 1 disa-reeahle.
^,, ,,sUs^ ^V"^M > exe^ 11 S 't -nnot^wann up, and
T have tried hard ^'^ ^^^'M"> .'"..,• k.^ the hall is hom-
i play like a ^vann-w.d..r spigo • B^ d. U ^^.^^^^ ^^^.
hll- ; a, little, narrow, drt> . ' ' ; . ,\ airtv ohjeets. It is
.ar.1 six ieot -l-'-r.^^^;; .^^ 1 ' ,i; Uorl^aring. Youp
the artists' room. 1 1'^^"^;\" '• r ,, , V,ke a ladder. l>>hler
on to the stage hy stairs ^ ^ ' ' ;..JX Venise,' two pieees
plays ' Yankee^]).,odle "^l^^^V" J en usiasn. of the audi-
'vhieh never ad m ^'^^' \" S /''. \L, i,,i,ur out a severe
enc-e, hut Avh ieh "'vanahb ^^^^^^^ ^;, ^^^Vv we know what
lecture from the 'if -1"^; ' ,^- ^ .;ve pearanees that these
to think of .t t ^^L-^^^^^^i, t Jvial nmsie soeretly,
trontlemen protest. .^''^^^ '";.^„',,i„^,, of their inferiority,
REIIMON AT ST. LOUIS.
The proachor was -hh^ly Jntont - ^^^^J^
greatest uumher ot words ^^it'\^;f^"'^;;n(led to di.til the
lev of hleas-like 1 almoman ,XNho ]-^^^^ .,^^, j^^^c
ten-thousandth part ot f, S/ 1 "^^f ^^ ^^^ ratio of \t^v,pi-
-.cman, and to increase its P Jf J "^ ^* f ^ fo, ^,,-0 houi-s
.nn.mj. This good r-;^-- - i;:^Sne or two ounces
IsnmMitl,. Thisgoo,l r^"^X;S^o;^ or two ounces
in(lr.>vvnuiginanoceanot (nn typ^^^^^^^^ ^^ .^ ^^^.
of stale ideas. ^^T^^V/';, P^^J ^^^^^ n'earisome--that the
comes a trade, hu. m it * ^^^ 1 if ^ ^ ^'u .uhjects a coUec-
preacher is ^7"^\?"i^; , ,"i f^vX n"-lt' is soon as he
ion of formulae ot ^^l>l^' *;^ ^^£^^ j^-, thoughts hi order
MILK AM) U'ATlill.
327
I genius does not
Dccenibcr 20, l?fi4.
audii'MCf listons to
mnpU'toly inaskotl
L to onjoy whiit wo
^ssiou wliii'li, attor
I very disagreeable.
lUiot warm \\\\ und
L-s, the hall is horn-
s to a kind of Man-
;lirtv ol)'|oets. It is
i)r hearing. Yon go
li a ladder. Dohler
. Venise,' t\YO pieeerf
nsiasn\ of the andi-
bring out a severe
tc'ly we know what
pearances that thi'se
ivial music secretly,
of their inferiority,
ting to despise what
anity \
nt on emitting the
nallest possible tunn-
retended to distil the
telladonna into Lake
the ratio of its vifin-
LMigaged for two houi-s
isc*, one or two ounces
on, as soon as it be-
wearisome— that the
.n all subjects a eoUcc-
himself as soon as he
his thoniihts in order
repeats these fornndnj
nied elsewhere. When
; phrase, and begins to
lose sight of port, an<l knows no l(.ngi>r where to land, he
casts anchor on aniplitications and synonyms; tins keeps
him in his position, and gives liim time to get back again.
Tliis proceeding is like that of the milkmen of Lontlon,
Paris, and of every other place in the \vorl<l where there
are nnlkmen and water, who, out of one vessel of milk
make ten or twelve bv adding water to it.
" Ves, my dear bro"ther {it is the preacher who siteaks),
man is weaker than vou can i)ossibly conceive ; more feeble
than all (a little water), weaker than all otlu'r fi'cble crea-
tnres (a little more water), weak because he cannot resist
ti'inptations (a good i.int of water), and weak because he
vields instead of con<inering (hem! the vessel oi milk is
full)." lie stojis here to put the full vessel to (»ne side, and
to begin at another, and so on, to the end of the sermon.
Bi.ooMiNciroN (Illinois).
I am warming mvself in the concert hall before we be-
gin. Hidden in the midst of the crowd I look like an
amatenr who has come to lu'ar. A little fellow who sells
photoirraphs of C'arlotta I'atti and myself m the ha 1 otiers
me oiie, sayiuii, "J^<> y«)u want the ix.rtrait ot Chuckle and
his wife r' Who is Chuckle? I asked him. ;^,;i";'- '";
is the man who plavs the piano." W here is he/ 1 luit
is he who passed mJ," said the little monster, pointing out
to me a tat man who came into the hall.
Good audience — nuich applauded.
AVe set out again after the concert, the cold being intense.
Passed six hours in suffering, like Tantalus, tailing asleep
and not being able to sleep for want of room to rest. \V e
ou"ht to be four liours in ij;oing, but as it appears impossi-
bk^tbr any train in the whole West to arrive at the pro-
T.er time, we are six hours on the road. On our arrival we
took an omnibus, and, after a (piarter of an hour s.)o!ting, we
<>-ot to a little tavern, benumbed with cold and with broken-
backs. Our companions in misfortune are two j.oor nuns,
who, motionless and silent, draped in then- large l)lack
veils, look like two lugubrious statues ot penitence and
resi<rnation. Alouixside of them are two i-retty girls wlio
Uundi, and whoso thoughtlessness prevents us troni mur-
3-28
NOTES OF A riAMST.
P
; 'tw Yo^' N m vim nn,l.t sco :ue at this mouKut, an<l
1 .^v u von voun-^ l.aro-liniins, who only i-.m^ivc in an
;;l;2;:;i;-a ^;::^^uhnn.U..va with r<>sos and iu.oa^
ch.lHiN moditateon this episode and . . • • • ^t ilu
fin,. ■<m.tAVo..,.tr.,tf«llm«l.ai..l... An iiLiiiny w..s "."U,
w .'t • " toii...v.,i i.y a ,„«.,i„g of b,si,.n.» ■"'; 1 1;;^;^; ;
l..>r of his foniiMine c-oixiUfsts was so great tluit 1 alt tiic
XulatAon of .Joliot wou/d have had the right to give hna
" ^rl.^'et'^llorious tour 'of concerts in the West is for
.n I t s o 4in his chevrons. Bad hotels, snow nmd, rail-
"LS^tlSd^its, delays, settin. out at f j-^;;;: ;; ^.^i^^
r^u^vn•uu<^ ctc It re.iu rcs an iron constitution ad a tinu}
w to si'.cce >d at it. I am tempted to have insc-nl.ed at he
Kul ot iiy o.n-amines-'' G. has nuuk- theto.ir ot the
^U\^L^:' as the French legions mscnhe " Arcole,
' r univil of Venice,' a man in the audience (without douht
tothrtluvt he kn.ows the tune) whistles the theiue xn uiu-
s/.\air..\n fpisodf..
329
.l)v. After liavinj;
luiiiUord annouiK'cM
(ie'iu'nil coiistt.'nni-
uxuIhtiiikt uf tlie
t,\vlii(li one niight
tilt' apiitliy of tU'-
br iin liour." Wo
[. The tire is tlam-
i tlie lioor with our
lioastetl <»n one side
a dran^;ht of \vin<l,
)nt nnder the door,
linntes, like a hei'i-
h ! my jrood friends
at thisnionunt, and
only j)ereeive in an
rosesiind paved with
At ten
)!• several hours.
id iiourisliiii.L!; little
a great seandal. A
ster, reeeived a cow-
Ui incpiiry was made,
bishoiis and L*ri>test-
.ovelaee. The result
ore not the only ones
inister, and the lUini-
1 mreat that half the
he right to give him
rts in the West is for
otels, snow, mud, rail-
D three o'eloek in the
istitution and a Hinty
)have inserihed at the
uade the tour of the
ions inserihe " Arcole,
■rds.
list Dohler [.lays the
dienee (without doubt
istles the theiue in uni-
son. After the last |(iece on the progratnine, a wouian,
agitated and paliiitaiiiig with emotion, ru.-lird into tiie
arlists' room, and aski'd to sir the '/'/"/■ who |ilayed on tln!_
violin. We guessi-d l»y her descriiition tliat >he sjioke of
J)ohler. "■ ITo has alreaily left,'" some one answered. '"ai'd you
will tiiitl him at the liot'el. " I'l^on this shr tfll- us with a
choking voice that Dohler is her cousin, that >he iH'coguized
him as soon as he aiipeared on the platl'orni, altliougli she
had not seen him for ten years, that he hail always hccu her
favourite, that at the age of ten years he alri'ady showed—
a singular ai)titude in catching mice- that he kept them in
a i-age — all this with tears of Joy interrupted l)y the ex-
claiiiatiinirt of the crowd who listen: "Is it possilde'r"
"That 'rt so." (There are always some people n^aily to say
''That's so," without knowing why, or what the matter is.)
The episode is interesting and breaks the [irosaic monotony
of our daily life.
The most interesting and pleasant jiart of the thing is
that on our return to the hotel, l)ohU'r relates to us his
interview with his cousin, who began by throwing herself
into his arms, giving him the most tender names; the first
part of the interview iinished, the explanation began.
"1 recognized thee as soon as thou didst appear; dost thou
recollect diy mice? Why didst thou leave thy jiaternal
mansion to roam over the world?" — ([ suspect she was
going to say to play the actor with a violin, but she
thought it wotdd be cruel on this joyful evening to recall
to his feelings his presi>nt degradation.)
" JK'ar Areid)tu'g," she continued, and she ]irepared her-
self to spring at his neck; when Dohler, who is full of
modesty (seeing she was ugly an<l old), said to her, " [ am
not called Areiiburg, Madam."
"iro\v, unhapi)y one, hast thou changed thy name?''
"My name is jjohler."
"Miserable oncl art thou ashamed of thine — thy name
is Arenburg."
"Madam, I assure you that you arc mistaken; I was
never here before."
"Intrrate, dost thou not know me? And the little mice?"
"I do not know," replied Dohler. " I am a German,
and I have never had anythin<; to do with mice."
28*
i
880 yoTKS OF A iJASi'^T'
. -ii* , +,x 1..^.. 1ii>r ri<''lit 'il' relation-
The goo,l woman, "ot ^^'l^''^^, JV;;^ a.wl i-.aking
use i.f the last ai-muont, '"J*' .'^ ' ^^ i,-,.,!, opinion of
do not tear" (this last ;>^;;;;;^„^ ^, I! .^^^MMhl.T, who
tho la.ly'B l<tK)Nvlo(l,tro <.t l''"'*'' '\ ' -^^^^ bait of oi.u-
,„„,,,„. st,.l.l.cHl at »,"''., ",|^"1 „|,|„.™.,.c of .J
!:x.if K^rr'::;^^;.''.!!^ t..o iv. ....u-.
omcrrs ana ul\ ^;*'''' ;;\'' ,"' ,^1^ . who f.n- sonu- tunc
yonni; girl. o^^l';"^^^^^\n' ! bl^ r^^^^ ^'l'^^-''^^'^
have frocmontoa the most ^« '^''^''V,' ' l*;,,,^ •„ the afternoon,
"nutcno'oloekinthe "-"-f^^ .^^a cL of ll>-n
Thev are pretty, and ^<^^ ^^L and a eloak
generally wear, a ^^tZtl 1 the vigilance of the
trnuned with lur. it w | 'IV' jn jj^t he relaxed,
poliee and the zeal ^'^ f^'"^^ ,; ^^ /; in be arreste.l in
uid that those two a<^•«"^"^S;^;'\'L'.^\,,isty -Nlitistrels'
?he very act of rovBccution ag^-^ ^ ^^^ >^^^„„„i Un.
ivhom they have ioUoweu lt)i a '""'^ .• , ^\^^. ^rowd
:S an Ahn at '^^ZU^^^^^'A^^^
to royant Hall. W liat uo jo a jj,^.,,i(.an hire is a
„„„/ 1» jt v's-"™ St o, !;«»; r,o,«. mi a-w,,
Bcienoc and ;ni art. }^^^[^'y '" y . i,^ j^ few moments.
i„ l?roadwav, ^^ ]'''^\J'^ e .reat artery contracts.
It was near the City "^"' ^ ^^ ^.y ,'nT-nnd.erc.d c-ircnlation
and where -^nsequenth ^^^^^l^.^^,^,,, of a (inarter ot
bec^^nie. more ^^f Vrt caritcV off thi poor animal, who was
ar hour the street carUar.o^^ ^^.^ ^^^,,,
alreadv covered with placaiils.
ta„.U,Ul. Th;,v are !;X'';^urS - ^'-'•' ''i'
ftud stuck 01! your back, joui n.ii, j
^A'.V ARTlOn, MICIIIGAS.
881
lor riirlit <>^ rclation-
•proiuli, aii'l iiiiiking
Me OIK', Avc aiv rifli,
10 u liiirli opinion ot
•s); but DoiiliT, wlio
ImI this bait of oi'ii-
ho had ever [.Uiy^'d
lock ill tho morning,
hiy, and to-(hiy wo
serioa of littU> ava-
on o'floi'k for hirak-
4()le ai.pi'araniT of a
■ the eotlee rendeivil
U. "Caution. roVu'C
rned not to trurtt two
who ioi- some time
',le HtreetH of Chieago
fonr in the afternoon,
vssed. One of them
ilk hat and a eloak
vt the viiiihmee ot the
s will not 1>e rehixed,
11 w>(>n he arrested ui
the 'Christy Mhistrels
long time around the
e attracting the crowd
think of the advertise-
rhe American hire is a
anibus horse fell down
led in a few moments,
le great artery eontracts,
encund)ercd circulation
ci.iration of a (inarter ot
10 poor animal, who was
On his belly you saw
^ invented a miniature
proirrammes which you
• liat, your gloves, b\
mysterious, indefatigab]e,aiid unseen hanils. Tlie Dutdi tonic
of Doctor II is udvertiscd in gigantic httors painted oii
the rocks whicli overlook the falls of the (icncsce Iviver.
It u;ives one a vertigo to read these i>ig letters that soeiii
to look with true Dutch ynnij froiil in(o the roaring gull'
which opens beneath them. One shivers to think of the
danger tiio person ran wlio painted this advertisement.
It is till' lure heroic.
Arrived at Ivaianiazoo at noon, Tlnirsday. Kxcellent
holi'l, (piite new. Charming concert and icspectable
audience. Xo cries, or whistling. All the pieces are en-
cored. The apjiearance of the audience otiors a singular
contrast to that of Joliet.
Di'ocihIm •• :?.
Quit Kalama5:oo for Ann Arl)or, Michigan. Arrived
at five o'clock. (Train behindhand.) A tlourishing little
village whicli particularly owes its importance to the State
University, wldch at this time mimhers eight hundred
and fifty students. They confer (h'grees here as high as
doctor of science, of law, and of divinity. Tlu' I'liiversity
Btudios last four years, and cost for the whole fifteen
(h)llars. This sum is purely nonunal, ai:d is only a pre-
text in order that the students may not appear to receive
State charity.
To-day in the cars a man saitl to his neighbour, who
asked liim if he knew the famous singer (Joodstock,
"Yes, very well, there he is," pointing to Muzio, who was
sitting opposite.
Saturday, arrived at London (Canada) after a journey
of eight "^hours. Small town. Conci-rt this evening.
Canailiau receipts! Thirty-one jiersons comi)rising niy
servants and tuner, who from a^prit <'r corps are sitting in
the public seats in order to increase the numlu'r. It nmst
be acknowledged that the apyilause was in the inverse
ratio of the number. That is to say, that the audience is
warm and I really know glad to have come, and I ]ilaye<l my
best betore these\wenty-one heroes (I deduct what does not
belong to the audience) to thank tlicui for their good-will.
33-2
IfOTES Of A I'lASlST.
Nrw Yoar, l^<i''.
IS nil
\vlu'n in t!io comi
1-,,/h. North. "^^^^yJ'.fjZi L\ useless bruviM..
(,f (.ur no\vsi.iii.oi>, a.ul ' *- • . numy years
Avlii.-h our editors have i uule u.e
Avhou speaking ot Lngluud
Ann Arbor.
between the first and Rccoujl
sine
^c'lo return to Ne%v York
Toronto, January 3.
ert a teh
Between the first and second part of tbo ->nc-ert_a^ U-Uj-
...^Ihie <lospateh is sent «. wdu< i ;-^ ^ '-, i,,, i,,.,
run away before three duNs, it }ou
"I'V^lf.^"'-' • „ yveneh Imirdresser, .
This 1" fi f^^*^"; ^ ^t.,n\slas de Uussie
Doctor and Chevaher de ^t- J' • '^^''^^ il ,.
speeulatedonsharesAv^thashuipcr
who eallrf himself
lie has
Whilst they gained,
DAYToy, nnio.
833
v.
Now Yiar, 1^05.
As t. tlK- car ilurinti
lio t'cho of vuiiislua
IK' ;yiars ^^litU'tl awiiy
8cl' tho swcft imaiii'^
imiiK-ncc'il my mairh
•hose wito I Ui'i'W at
laniiinu; rauiily ; tlio
I ami 1 ■n.U-ralUvliou
iivntrt ivap wl.o liavc
,„. 1 am i-artu'iilafly
'Pho maiTU'«l .lauii-httT
1. It is not (litl'K'iilt,
■n, to maUTstaiitl that
■sH the rosnU of then-
h than then- antq-athy
V panlou tl>c hoastiULj
\ luul U80h>ss hi-availo
(,f ibr rto many years
Ann Akiiob.
en the first nnd second
r,our woi-rano, re(iuest-
' from 'Traviata 1
•wsuaper hestowejl i:'-eat
„ia his hcautifnl style,
orelli left us two days
Toronto, January 3,
trt of the concert a telo-
veadsthus: " ;v'll
do not have Imu
vou
osser, who calls himself
islas de Uussie. Ho has
,er AVhilst they gamed,
nil wont vory well. Losse« came, and wlrli theni disitulcx.
The hhar|icr claimed ciirhlci. i tlmiisaiid dollars. The
kniirlit of the razor liail not a red cent, 'i'luy were ahont
to iirrcst iiini. His wife and cliildreii came and threw
themselves at my feet, Iicirt;iii<r me to ijo hail for tiiirty
'lioMsand <iollars', wliich wonJil l<ee|» liiin out I'f |iri>oii
until the affair was tried. I consiiitcd to it.
I Icavi' yon to judirc of the clfect this tcleu^ram lual oij
me. Tiie\'onecrt is interrn|itcd. 1 Icavi- for New York
hv the first train to-moi-row niorninjr. rnfortnnately, tlu^
Secretary of tlie Interior decided, two days airo, that no
one can i-ntcr into the I'nited States across the Canada
fronticv without iiassports eoniitersii;ncd hy the .American
anthoritit's. This mcasuri' has lu'en taken to jircveiit die
incursion of rehel emisirants fr(5m Canada. I.a* ''y twelve
of tlu'sc adventurers entered into the villau'c ^A' St. Alhans
on the frontier, and rohheil the hank of tiirce or four hun-
dred thousand dollars.
IlAimifiirnd, .laiinnry 28.
Small audience, consoqnontly irreat enthusiasm. The
concert taki-s place in the C(jurt House. 'I'lu' artists' room
is <aM)erally the witnesses' chamher, hut the porter infornw
us'that he has not heeu ahle to light n fue in it, ami he
has put us in tliejuroix' room, whicli is in the second story.
The cold is intense. We have to cross Siherian passatjes
and go up a steep Ktain-ase forty steps to get to our den.
The' concert hall is helow. At i}\X'vy jiicco 1 put oii my
greatcoat, my fur gloves, and go down forty steps. After
my piece I agani V^t on my furs, left at the door, and go
tU) the forty steps. The progrannne half over, 1 have
already two" hundred steps in my legs.
DAtTON, Ohio.
Excellent audience — syraiiathetic and warm. Hotel,
Siherian! Hiirh ceiUngs"; immense, dark, and damp cor-
ridors; a tota'l ahsence of heaters. My Swedish doctor,
of whom I have already liad occasion to speak, ought to
come here and estahlish himself in one of the halls of iMid-
lips's Hotel. Besides, the young man at the desk otlers a
334
ynTES oh' .1 riASisT.
1. nf 11... iiirtiuMico of colil Oil himmii imtuir.
l>»-'ivr' ... ,11
Fcliruary H-
lnor you ; it will p- y*- -;>;;;;; j '^ ''oi^yway
.r,>niity that, i.H a.HonU'.! to ait, and mc
i,rv.hu-hitsai8cil.U-saretirat.-.l: -
.l.asnotal.loto^;to(;ott..^i^l<V.^^^^^^
•„,.., but T luuU.rstaua t''''V;hv .m tl k .n.in.', two
ir' ho i. willing to o.mio >^^\;^y^[ "^'^ ,,i„, '
c,r throe of his i.ioccs. Ut tomst, an^^ ^)^^j^^^ ___„
T .....vo 11 conoort at WilminiXton (tho
Three years ap. T ^^^ ^ ^^ „,„,, o,,,- ...ui-
iKiMV consisted ot I 1'.^"" ";,' . .'....urorial haton of Stra-
\u.i;re.,s, a.ul laysell, un.lor \';';'^.' ,,,,,,. The a.^
kosoh. The reeeipts ^Y''>: ;*^^. .^.^ l^^^e , , bn'tln-rs In
l.lauseO. l>^'»'^^^'''r'^''^^;/,r/\w, states in whieh
.olities as h, music, »"' ^ '^\ V L ,, Mux/io i-ersisto.l
luusieal art is iu Us hrst ;; i^ ^ V^^^^' jj, l,uu2 at Wil-
,..^ '^^'V'lo^a nv e^ ;;ie;;eo:i.ut ho wouUl m.
Tr'^ 'L T li^re is aMi.om,oe.l ei.^lit .lavs m a. -
iK-Uove me. Ha «*"'^'^'. ,-.,,,,.i, \\\. o-.. to the hotel,
vauoo. Wo arrive at six '^ "".^ 0^',,, 'l.:„.,i,,n.l villa-o.
^vhioh would be hardly deoe nt ^ ;^ ^^ .^' -^ at the end
Muzlo visits, the ''-»^:;Vi^,.iJ a "utoiianoe tells mo
of a few "y""^^\,"'^' tou,.f IWu) likes cnoOKS
well enough thut the^^Umi>'.ut «T eight tioketH for
,,, hotter than that of S -• ; -.;;\,, ^,,,^
the eonoort M)ld, an«l ^^^^^'^ , , informs the seller
Mn/io, ten mmu OS '^^^;^' J^^. ^ .^.^i;^ n,{,,laeho whieh will
ot music thot I am take,, v^ it_h ^^^ ^^^ l^. „.^ ^,,, ,1^^ ama-
not permit me to appear tins *-^\"".- . . t^,,. hotel ('0
leuii of ^^^-^^\;^:^:^T^^:^u. letter \.
1 reoeived tl'.roU|ch ^I^V" ' sc 4be for the editieation of
a feminine hanu, which I tiauseiiUt lor
luy readers.
U.
TWO sToiiirs.
r.
1 (Ml huiimii iiiituro.
cot" all Antic p'-lur
Ft'liru.iry l-l-
writtoii to he pro-
,e mi.l ' iiiscnlie
the - -ill lonnt ot
Ik'rt concert last ovoti-
,„,ir hotel. Ask him
Urf, thirt iiinrniiiii;, two
uill ).ay him.
" SiiTiu'tl — •
t nt WilnrmL'toii ^tl>«
live tluMv). Our conj-
liss Hiiukly, Mon-iisi,
liwerial haton of St ra-
ti vc .lulhirs. The ap-
y arc twin brothers in
two States in whieh
.sit!;n. Mnx.io jiersisteil
me' his fortune at W il-
nec, l«ut he wc.uUl n(.t
need iii;ht tlavs m lul-
\Ve u-o to the hotel,
a New 'Kns;lan«l villa.i,a>.
, eomes hack at the end
d eounteiiaiiee tells me
1 of IHiu') likes eoneei.s
.,•0 lu-o eight tickets ior
•k in the eveninsr.
a-avely informs the seller
^k'lit headache whieh will
in<^ before the eiirht ama-
10 evening at the hotcK^.O
t' a gentleman a letter m
ibetbr the editication ot
885
""NVe are very disiii)|.oinf»'d in not iiearing you. Wc are
many ladies now at tlie music store; will you Ik- so kind as
to Clinic and play something for us? Wo will pay yoii the
price of the tickets." No signature. Can it be, Mndam or
Nliss, that the iniiati" delicacy of woman, and particularly of
Anu'rii-an woman can it bt^ that the music which yoil
must lovi' since yoii will spend the cvi-ning at the music
store awaitiiu"; iuy coming to play, has not suggested lo
you that it was unworthy of you to speak of tin- /'/'" n/
This rcciills to nu' twostories which represent your action
under two aspicts. One grotes(|ue, tiie oilu-r uiico''tli,
iiccordiiig as I look at thi'iii from the point of view of my
pocket, or of my heart.
A certain (Jascon was he a (JasconV The French say a
(Jascoii, the iMiglish Avould say an Irishman, the Italians a
Neapolitan, the Spaniards an Andalusian, eai'li nation hav-
ing its type of clown — which in all is idi'iitically the same.
L. t us say (lascon. A (iascoii then saw at an inn a beau-
tiful parrot, lie had never tasted a tropical bird. He was
seized with a desire to taste it. "It the taste is eipial to
its plumaire this must be the pheasant of the iVmericaii
forests!" ■ , . „
" How much for your parrot ?" " One hundred francs,
answcreil his host.
" W'lT well, eook it." Tlu' innkeeper knew his trade,
lie wrung the neck of the poor bird and put it immediately
on the spit. "Now," said the Gascon, "give me five
francs' worth."
This is for the pr'x'c of l/ir lic/crts.
Now for the second story.
I was travelling in Switzerland giving concerts. T was
tlien very young." Without doubt, thanks to this circum-
stance, iiioVe tlian to my talent, there was at Lausanne a
great desire to see and hear me. My first concert attracted
ai: immense crowd. 1 heard one day an ol«l lady spoken
of, who had lost her fn-tune, who adored music, but whose
poverty and infirmities |irevented her from going to bear
mi'. She had expressed her regrets by saying that she had
never so cruelly felt the loss of her*^ fortune as in seeing
herself deprived of listening to music.
r
336
XOTES OF A PIANIST.
I i„.inirc<l ^^■hevv sho livo.l, mul m roAuooa n.ysolf to ho
She ^vis a panilytic lady, vory ,hstnjr.uslu..l l'}' J><;;t '^^
.„Hl iH V v.mral.le aHH'annu'O, and 1 shall novcr lorget the
. d ..• . .notion whu'h i lolt at th. hottom ot n.y hmrt on
s .0 m^^ two tears from her eyes when I. otle.vd to ,,ass the
ovenin- with her, to play for herselt alone everytlnng whi.-h
hn:o;d.l he pi 'aseJl to ask nu>. Tl.e next monnng a te^
tliis to nu", delieions evenintr, 1 received ironi an LngU^ii-
nan' ^O mv ehannin- hut ir.delieate AViha.ngton (..rre-
J,:on.lents,l then thou-ht that only an En-lishnmn eould
be oapal.lo of siieh a thin-) tne followin,|.- letter :-
-8ir,I hear that you have been h'^O^^f ^''',.^ * J'^"'^^^
. \\y wife also is ill, and tor a number ot years has n( t
h'ft her eluunher. She desires to hear you. I otter you
ten dollars to play two pieces to her .
' My answer to the Englishman apphes eniialh, a\ oH to my
Wilminiiton convspoiKients.
" I have received the letter m which you do me the
honour ofmakin-mothootfer of ten (hdlars to play two
pS^ to vourwUe. I might tc.rgetthe want otd^ioac^
•uul tact which your rcpiest shows, it it was not lor the
vexation it dves me which prevents me by its uucouthness,
from acceding to the desire ot an invalid.
CIIArTER XXI.
Toi.rpo, Oliver IIorsE.
On-k of the best houses in the United States. The com-
plaisance of uie Nvaiter goe« to our heart, and ti Is it m t h
larin gratit.de, like the rays of the ';'-^-|<l-i;"\^|^*^
melts the last crust of snow, and makes the tii^t guei
Zots appear. A very striking contrast to the insolence
of the mail at 1) .
New Youk.
the
Th
first time
rco years n-o I wrote this: "Heard yesterday, ibr the
time, Miss liellogg ; a charming artist, a groat deal ot
ii
ST.
A SUBJECT TO BE PROUD OF.
oduood myself to hev.
irnislu'd liy Iht tiistos
shall lu'VL'r lorget tlio
ottdiii of my lu'iirt on
I 1 otfeml to ]iusri the
[one evL'rytliiii<!; wliicU
he next morning after
ivetl iVom an Eng-lish-
te AVihaington corre-
an Englishman eould
vinii letter: —
1 Inlaying for ]\radame
umber of years has not
hear yon. I otfer you
)iies ennally well to my
Avliioh yon do me the
ten dollars to play two
et the want of delieaey
S if it was not for the
< ii)e, by its mieouthuess,
valid."
XI.
Toi.DDO, Oliver IIorsE.
nited States. The eom-
r heart, and tills it with
the uiK'londed sun that
1 makes the tirst green
.-ontrast to the insolenee
New York.
Heard yesterday, for the
ing artist, a great deal of
distinction in her deportmenr and in her intelligence."
Since then Miss Kellogg's talent has only increased. The
]iart of ' Marguerite' in ' Faust' is in every one's ,;\emory , anil
will not he easily ettaeed.
Is it not a subject to be proud of, to thiid< that we, who
vesterdav were not able to count, so to say, one artist, can
"to-day claim as ours talents like Towers, rainier, Miss
Stebbins, t'hurch, Bierstadt, etc.? I recall the astonish-
ment with which they read in Europe the tales of I'oe,
whose success in France, England, and Germany was
already secured long before his lei low-countrymen wished
to accord him any merit. "What! an American?" and
the people were astonished that a nation of mi rchaiits could
engender a poet. They only knew our literature through
Cooper, whose works are translated into every tongue.
Washington Irving himself, although his name is known,
has never had any literary success outside (»f the L'nited
States, excejit in England.
l)Ut the Aincricaiiop/Kihi's also say: Poe has never been
understood in his own country. From whence lia.-s come the
great o[)position of that cli([ue of imbecile, jealous, and
sterile [)edants, who, like thistles and thorns, always
encumber the avenues of all the arts, and dispute their
])lace in the sun with the generous and vivacious plants,
who, histead of thorns, jtreseiit to the sight tlowers and
fruit? IFow many scratches and wounds for the man ■)f
talent before he //r/,s rid o/" these im[)ertinent brambles?
" Tie had immoral jirinciples." Ah ! that is the great word.
AVlieii then will you separate the man from the writer?
the instrument I'rom the thoiiu-ht? Will you find the vir-
gins of Raphael lacking in purity, because Raphael loved
Fornarina? Do you deny the perfume of the attar of roses
because the Chinese inclose it in jars of stone instead of
vases of gold? Ry this reckoning, villaiioiis verses made
by a virtuous writer ought to be read in preference to the
l)oetrv of Byron, who was far from heiiii!; a vessel of elec-
tion !■'
Let me he understood. I lament that the man of genius
is, sometimes, from his private character unworthy of the
sentiments which his writings inspire ; but do not forget
that he dies, while his works live, llis neighbours only
20
i
tf
ooa NOTES OF A PlAyi'-iT.
1,0 is not a l-fliover. Bnt ln> \v - . J! •.!,,, ,|, .,„a
IL. ages, lunnnous -^,-'7;^^;e<l nations, and a.v
imrity ronung generation. , .^\V ,.,.^,.. ^vhat does it
1,H. only ----' ,X \ - n^-'-i-^ ^'^ ^''"'"'■-'" ^
inattH- to me ^^f ^l^''l'''''' .J . , .h,. .livine ehiUl l.A.k:s *.n ns,
La Vierge iV a yl''^;-;/;;^ ^^ ^ e nbrandt was a nuse.-.
i, not ^- »' "'":;;y '^1 ::r e s maweUous t AVas he a
Are Ins hg'hts '^ ' ,^1"\*) ) J^. n,,^,,, has ,iot always been a
miser ot his pah'tte . J^fJ'^Vf . ,r. ^.^.1,^ on the Hearth,
imtternofeon.iugalhdelit). ^ \';^'% ^he l-ieture of
kv^hing in its v^^-^j^-^ -i^;,,.::;ivthc?twiiight^
I) ckens s hearth. , -^^'^/VV ', ' i.,,i,r o,x that aoeount less ot
Is the author of ' l>'\^'i^V^l^^ ,n v I art less of sterile
i,.vatwriterv No ^ ^^ ' ^ ve iS^ the heantilnl
o.ul inrrow morality, and nioic y. •
^htt^tlo say, iW the Pj;;^^-^^-;^ ,,, ,.. the whole
T<. make the works ot ^^i^'^^/^*^' 1,,,,,,,, to me asahsnr.1
of his vrivat. Wb, is f- ^J^' :M'^t\ ose ease might he of
as to deny the t.^ie |^ ; hnc an^^ ^^^^^^ ^
rough wood. _ I know a ea ^^.^^tation thite ot massive
leaving at his e.meeit. *^' ;M>'^^ (^V ^ ^,^,,i,i. Alas'.
liKor.' It had tlic ^^f;^;:^^^ ^^^^^ the world of artV
how many silver Untes f'-f'^^^'l^^ ^,,. to eho.)se yonr
Of c-onrse, I miders and ^^''^^ ,,;^;;'\,\^ t() have near yon
ncighhonrs, it wonld l;^V'::;;',;^:hfb 'whose morals might
a luan, whatever lV^^■''^''\t f very resv.ec-talde imheeile.
,ormi>t all »»-''""^^'^"^'f; .[^Vo^orr Jspon.l with your
t^o, when you purchase '\ 1'^'; "^ ™^;,, ,„, ^bonv before in-
funiiture, yon '^^'l^'^'t/''^V^; "', t I "ite as raueh eontest
qniruig if it has a .i}"^\'\''J' J •,;,!£; of vonr artist
yonr right to proseribe ^^^« ^"^ ^^.f ,. ,^, ba^e observed
J,eighbour ot^;l-','>^!:^^::t:.,neXthan yourself, as to
r,^;^ita::;iMto;:e^i?i^-instrumeiitbeeauseitis
"^t^yoin^u- ^vhen you.hc^ -j^iphoiv. <^ BeeUioven
played l,v the I'bilharmonie ^P^^l^ oi the best
Ibal intelligen. devotion -^^J't^:\:Z.,,ryo if the
AMUsiycr coyvKRSA nox.
830
■ots (Irntik, or tluit
TIh'V pass thronsi-U
Thoy oimobli! and
(1 nations, »i>'l '*''^'
ity. AVhat (loos it
irrii'd to Fornariui ■
lie child I'Aik:-; on ns,
iibrandt waw a miser,
vellous? AVas lie a
vs not always beon a^
K-ket on the Hearth, _
^av, the I'i^-V"-^ f'J
erecl by the twilight J
,11 that" aooount less ot
;e in art less of sterile
Dve for the l)eantifal
,oiisihle for the whole
.eeins to me as absurd
hose ease might be of
.itist, who insisted on
ation thite of massive
in the world. Alas.
in the world of art i
11 are to choose your
eable to have near you
e, whose morals might
v'respeetalde imbecile.
correspond with your
my or ebony before m-
[ ("piite as much contest
liratious of your artist
ulse you have obsL>rve<l
tly than yourself, as to
ustrument because it is
vmphonv of Beethoven
'stra of :N\^w York with
akes it one of the host
riause to observe it tlie
'iccolo has his hair care-
fully comlted, and if the violinists in the front rows have
their boots blackened ? Cei-tainly not ; and it is fortunate,
for your ])leasure would often 1)0 diminislii'd.
Poor I*oe! He drank! AV'lio knows it now?
The other day in the car, there being no seat, 1 took
refuge in the baggage-car, and there I smoked for two
liours, seated on the case of my ])iaiio, alongside of which,
human frailty ! were two other cases also inclosing in-
struments, nowinuto, siiice the principle which made them
vibrato, under a skilful toiu-li, like a keyboanl, has left
them. Tlioy were the bodies of two young soldiers killed
in one of the late battles.
Pi-NKiHK, February 14.
Conversation l)etween two ladies who conversed iu the
corridor of the hotel opposite my cliamlK'r: "What an
eccentric man this Gottschalk is. He is, however, no
great thing. Lately, at Boston, ho had to leave suddenly,
and his concerts no longer attract anybody!
Another amusing thing. At St. Louis,_an officer speak-
ina; of me to a lady, one of my friends beiiig near: —
"Lddil. "Has lieWei\'od any education?"
Offira: "Xone at all; buf that docs not prevent him
froiii being a very good iellow."
LwJ'i. " I thought so."
Offior. "Say nothing ])ad of him, I beg you: for, as I
have told you, he is one of my friends."
Lady. " How does he speak French ?"
Ojfictr. " Oh ! very imperfectly ; but you know he is a
Sj)aniard,"
O truth! why art thou not petroleum! One would at
least know where to dig a well to make thee flow out.
February lli.
Superl) concert at Roclioster. An anomaly. A crowd,
and a ijrcat dad of enthusiasm.
Batavia, February 17.
Xo audience, and no applause. Just as we are com-
mencing, the man who attends to the gas forewarns us
that at nine o'clock all the lights will be extinguished.
340
NOTE^ "^yA PIAMST.
r.
Erie, February 18.
Inill on "'^ '- ,1 , ' I , ,.|,,sa oftlw Amcncaiia are
jrofMr^ama„,werea:'-N„„,.
,K ,M1," Uonoc <lUl,.n-aca, nhy not bo anmseil mstcail of
i;;So 1^ >- hMt'i.::::;^!^ «r'r.u:
tlu'v want, throw all that nas ullm j^i <- i ,, „ ,.
«'"";f ■• A'u-t " tir; rsini;' .^^ ss y^ i J::
;lxitrg:rrna;;rv.f:::fjr,'^;;:^^^^^
inalo It longer ,i„„„a„rt wiucita wliu'h I bavo
gU^nlu t:". hapFuod one Imn.lml .ina, that I have
refused an oucorc.
r have never seen so many tipplers and drudans-places,
l^n. Zst^SM.): ^^^t there is the habitual drunkard,
-'^::::^:^^ ti. .ost in.
mori dty n the ifnited States. '; It is a Gcnnorrah
^vs Le pai en Rest assured that, if it ever is on hr(?, it
will no? be a tire from heaven, but from spontaneous com-
bustion.
February 18.
liionths which I have travelled in the A\ est, it i. the toirj
AUXT LIBDY.
341
Erie, February 18.
the evening at the
struck with a snow-
Y the hlow. How
^nierioans arc I
jort. I asked the
D here pays a (k)llar
angry to pay that
ehikl the public; is '.
id it come? AVheu
amused instead of
something for its
lildren to "me, who,
ts civen to them as
given them on the
y being sulky ? Do
t ; l)ecause you have
concert. You com-
Why have you not
cd to repeat a piece,
lu'crts which I have
x\ times that I have
and drinking-plaees,
s, as at Washington,
ness (they are all of
3 habitual drunkard,
Tton is the most im-
-It is a Gomorrah,"
if it ever is on tir<?, it
i-om spontaneous com-
Fobruary 18.
ort, thirteen hours on
" It is the first time
hs," is the invariable
'lare that, in the three
e West, it is the forty-
eightli time that the train on wliirli I liavo been has lurn
stopped by an accident, either to itself, or from tlie train
which preceded us, and obstructed the road.
_ At this evening's concert, Lockport, I'aitliful to its tradi-
tions, furiushes us with a JiOckport audii'uce — that is to
say one hundred persons gaping for their money, and who
do n()t aiiplaud. " Tlie sealded Cat dreads cold water." At
the iirst concert which I gave here, there were three liun-
drcd persons. They had never seen such an entertainment,
and swore that no one should take them in again. Since
then I liave tried my fortune liere four or five times, but
always with the same result. TIm evening, however, they
have varied the monotony a little by hissing.
" Pardon me, Muse ! 1 have cut thy wings, and instead
of letting thee tly into space, I have usl'd thee to make the
pot boil."
It is not for music, no more is it for art, to come and give
a concert at Locki)ort.
■ The artist's imagination lias no wings save when it is in
those spheres in which it can unfold them and Hy. Here
it becomes a gosling, and is only good to make the pot boil.
We have not even that consolation at Lockport.
Utica, May 2.
As always a charming audience. I have paid visits to
all my good friends. 8^^^ , a charming )■•.; m, and good
nmsician. Dr. K — — , my old friend, a nmn iircat merit,
who has written some important works on ini m.^ity. I have
naturally visited the asylum, and have been recognized by
all my friends. 'Aunt Libl»y,' an old woman with pale
complexion, immediately recognized me. She is always
dressed in a pink gown, with a very large sash, a ])laite<l cap
decorated with gilt paper, and a little white woollen shawl
trinmied with blue nuislin. Small, plain shoes. She in-
forms us that the Queen of England is enchanted > visit her,
and gives her the sum of five hundred thousand dollars.
Wo play and sing in the principal hall of the asyhnn. All
are standing around us listening. Aunt Libby, Avho is
conscious of her high position, whilst we aa'c playing, o]»en8
Avith an air of great dignitv an umbrella, which she holds
■'20*
1
m;
yoTES OF A riAyisT.
the wh..lo time in the air. I ask her to l-lay (n- sing, whirh
H iJ a or hcin^- we-11 i-rrsuadod. 1 g-iv. her n.y ar.n
; ., u. hor t„ the piuno. She ro-iucsts in-, with great
1 1 V a .<l c..n.loseensiou to hohl her ian and her haiul-
ke • ef ' The go,ul old woman improvise^ a knul ot
bu ;ir .'eonipanlinent (al..ys h. .), u sort of ^-t to words
mIso iiin-rovised— 'I ^*ee the Angels,' tuclc, Uwh^tucL i
;"te Angels; ^lUu,. .lou.j {Ml) M tnck^U.rk (here she
■ es a scale), an.l looking with evi.le.it pleasure, t.r^t at
/key-hoaiil, then at those annuu her, ^l^e .•ominenees
^ Yankee Doo.lle,' then ends with 'God, save 1- 'J^ ;
' Kinu- George,' dhuj, <lou,j ; another flonnsh ^;,"'l^:; ^'^» ".
of a Vcale, hen she rises from the piano to reeeue ^^ th a
no est air onr eompliments. r<.or oM woman! she i.
c -luinted, and oilers to show me her sanetnm, sane onnn,
'h ' is f dl of shells, and all sorts of eunous things.
Th;i. another lady is introduced to us, -l- --P'^';;-
1 to his great eonsternation, as having been hei luis
nud'' Afterwards we see a lady who belies es herselt
^' have been betrothed to General ^^^t^^^"-''' Ti .k''
1 leathed by him to alHhe presidents c>t the I in ed S a e.
She is evidently oonsei.ms of the prolihc grandeui ot u
mission, an.l rej.nees in having been the instrument tor a
Doitulation of thirty million souls.
^i recognize some^f the eases which last ycnir were among
the woi't. These now are persons ot 'distinguished and
modest behaviour, who have so well progressed that in a
short time they will leave the asylum.
Bi-VFALO, March 23, 24, and 25.
Charming eoncert. Kind aTidience. I love Buijalo and
Rochester -these arc two cities in whidi I always p ay witli
^:: '^raeuse is cold. I have never obtamjxl tin., a
arge audience. The last concert was a " eh 1> .vttai..
That is what the newspapers say. It riohtl y adds that the
andience and the artist parted mutually disgusted w itl
ech other. It is true at least, as far as lygards one ot
tiiem, the audience, if I might judge frmii its behaviour.
Not one applause from the beginning to the eiu . i la s c i-
^heless did mv best, and I am certain that t iis audK.ieo
muler the spur^of three or fourclacpieurs, would have wamu d
VA L UL OF APPLA I 'SF.
843
lay orsiiig,wiru'li
•vivi- lior my ana
4.S 111'' with gmit
I'aii ami licr liantl-
Dviscs ii kind of
ot'c'liant towonlrt
c/,-, /(/'•/,•, tiirL ' I
((•/:, itii-k (lioro she
t iiU'iirturo, first at
■r, islio coinnic'iK'C'rt
. save tlie Qiu'on,'
isli uiuU-r till' form
) to rcH'C'ivo witli a
1(1 woman! f^lio i^^
ui(.'tnm smctorum,
at" cnrious tliint^s.
IS, who iTcoirnizc's
vinjii; heon hor hus-
lu) i)L'lic'\08 hc'i-si'lf
ashington, and bo-
f the Cnitod States.
tic grandeur of her
lie instrument for a
ist year Avore among
f distinguished and
jro<>;ressed that in a
, March 23, 24, niul 25.
I love Burtalo and
hi always play with
3ver obtained ihere a
IS a "chilly affair."
•iu'htly adds, that the
tally disgusted Avitk
ir as regards one of
! from its behaviour,
to the end. I never-
n that this audience,
s, would have warmed
u]i, and would have found that charming which to-day is
rmmd wearisdiiu', 'J'he commencement of a conei'i't may
lie conqiared to the first stage of a graml dinner, hi't'oiv the
ice is broken, when evi'i-y one is afraid to iireak the siK'iK'i",
and we hardly dare to "speak to our neighbour but helow
our breath, "if among the guests tlii'i'e is one who bri'aks
the ice, immediately all speak at once,and the conversation
having beconu' geiu'ral, each one tries to keep it up. In a
concert, if there is a knot of determiiieil persons who, bold
enough, dare to give the signal, the crowd immediately
follow the current. It wanns up, the nerves are atfceted
bvit; the excitement causes them to discover points which
o"tlierwise would have passed by unperceived. It gives to
their perception u susceptibility which it would not have
under ordinary circumstanci's, and sometimes evi'ii makes
them discover imaginary beauties, so great i.^ their impa-
tience to find food tor their excitement. Figure to yourself,
on the contrary, that there are no claqueurs; you play the
first piece. The bond is lutt yet established between the
artist and the audience.
The artist is ignorant of the disposition of the audience;
the latter may have liked the piei-e, which being iinished,
an amateur counting on the enthusiasm cf the others
ai.plauds warmly— clap! clap!! but finding himself alone
he dreads being remarked, rtorne turn and look at him.
Like a tortoise that precipitately withdraws his head
into his shell after having stealthily adventured to see
what is going on arouiur liiin, he l)eeome.s_ as small as
jtossible iuid takes on an uidifferent air to divert the sus-
l)icioiis of those who are looking at him. The artist, who
does not read the thoughts of the auilicjice and judges
of its sentiments only by its ap]ilause, thinks that he is
not ai)preciated. lie becomes oppressed by a feeling of
injustii'c, and hastens to finish a task which he believes
to' be e(iualiy as i)ainful to the audience as to himself.
lie even skips those jiassages which he would have
lengthened con oinorc under other circumstances if he
was sure of being appreciated. Like a Hanie in a heavy
and moist atmosjdiere his insj irations diniinjsli and end
by becoming extinguished. Audience and artist, for want
of mutual understanding, and whilst both are animated
Hi
\OTES OF A /'/.lA'/.sr.
!• * .,1 w\\\\ o!ifl> other.
,,Uh the Lent ^^^^^^^^:^ auaU...,
Tl,;s V ^vl.ut ^'■''in'*;'''^'*^ .; \ ;. , t,,,, I on all these- point.,
an.' -ad only instuu-t to .^'" '^^ y^i^.^^ t,,^ ,o,urrt %vas lon.t,'
" .Ui savint? that it was ^'''^'!,V^''J' itself (.t'nc.then.i;
'^'^;^^;iS^;^aer 5:^ artist .Uh h.aUte.enee and
-^^^uodr^:(;"'^isin.esu h^o .^^^
n.c!^ artistic or a nu>re striking hajnO^^ ,,^. , ^
in this young faeo ^^^l^t^ ;^^ 1 ^ the stutf for a
crown of el.ou hair. ^'' .^„ '• ;. u. enee. Halt there, my
jrreat artist or for a sui-er m \'^ " -^ „,,e, but pay your
aiidheanstoatra\elia.
New York, Aiinl .5.
-.- 1 f „ r.ilUovnia in comnriny with
Some days after one of > *^^"^^,,,,th afterwards some
asked me when I ^vas go g. A ^ ^,^^ ^ ^ed
newspapers announeed ^^'^^ ^ '^.^,t,. I understood that
ntroX&ti;^ar^^^
of my voyage when an "jn^^tm^e^^ario for the i>urpose
luont for some "^""ths. i lu^ ^^^\ ^„ ^he p aeard ,
of stimulating the f ^^^ 'V^'f^.,?,';;'^^ The tour iinished,
u tarewell eoneerts ^f «^'« ^'^^f f^" ^v York. Saratoga is
the summer agam found "i^ '^J; . ^^j^. autumn. Some
" W/IAT! YOU Mir. STILL i/i:it/:."
345
with each otlitr.
,iU tlic iuidu'iu-i',
,n all tlu'su ix/uit.*,
irinj;, wivrt wili!*lii^'«i
,c I'oiu'i-rt wiiri l"i>,i?
so itself «»f not la'UJi.'
I iouiid iv intimti'ly
ith ititlilVcivnco una
•vor won anything
),iy of contour than
ivory, Hct ofV hy a
riians the Htutt h)r a
ice. Halt there, my
lance, hut i-ay yonr
,utch you fn.ni yom-
.our dinner. A.-* tor
,duig a plate ot i.ork
\
New York, April 3.
•nia in eonii>aiiy with
jy him. , . , .
aid without thmkm^;
to South America.
, came up to me and
onth afterward^/VI"^
leaving the ini ed
■tri I uiiderstood tliat
•neiids of my pre^^"^''^
oincr out the itinerary
ottered me an engage-
e.>.ario for the purpose
put on the placard^,
ire" The tour hnished,
ew York. Saratoga is
for the autumn, ^ome
rtomeinadisappomted
■had left." The newB-
hittci>wect way, by re-
calling to me that I had jmt 'farewell eniieerts" on my
plat'ards, wliicli was e(|iiivalent to deceiviiii; tlie pulilie.
I took up again my itinerary and 1 bought a iarii-e trimk.
Another lucrative engagement jiresented itself. To refuse
was easy, 'hut a hird in the liand is woith two in the
bush.' 1 decided to remain. Besides, you linve alriadv
understood tiiat I iiad no di'sire to K'ave, and that I was
hurning to find a pretext to oiler to 'l»amc Ut'aMin' t(»
justify my change of plans. The newspiipers occupied
tiieniselves, i<nme witli intcri'st, others wilii soui-ness, aliont
my delay iu going. My frii'uds overwhelmed me under
the Weight of an incessant "what! yon are still here," ai
my disajipointed fellow artists began to cast ferocio, -,
looks at me. There was a general alarm. 1 must re-'i;u
myself, willingly or unwillingly, at the same time cu •.ui;.'
the want of reflection Avith which one day I had ex'' >e('
the possibility of my making a tour to South Amenc.-!.
For those who live on the outside of art, entctng it
only through the ]>ublic door, one pianist more oi is '^
no more than a grain of sand carried by the winds » ne
desert, but for the unsatiated and tamislu'd givi'r of con-
certs and their agents one pianist less is a piece more of
cake to divide among themselves; it is a mean of one
hundred concerts during the season whose rect'ij)ts come
hack to the common mass. It is one hundred thousand
dollars which falls to them from heaven, without taking
into consideration the relief to their ainniir jim/ur. The
absent are always in the wrong, and once gone, the ]iid)lie
thinks little of an artist whoin once it liad made its idol.
One tine morning in Fei)ruary, 181!'), I made a contract
Avith Muzio to go to Calitiu-nia. This contract wliii-h I
made as reasonable as possible was thus conceived " that my
iiupressario iu all probability could not lose nnicli in case
of failure and in case of success would have his share of
the i)rotits." For ten years I ha<l thought of visiting
California. In 18.55, the great Smith, the old agent of
Jenny Lind, ottered me an engagement for San Frani'isco
which I acce]»ted. He was to go on hoard the steamer San
Francisco, I think, i)receding me one month, but two hours
hefore embarking he broke his leg, and in this manner
escaped the terrible catastrophe which took place two or
A'or/>' or A riAMST.
I0S.S (.f liioiv thilli (Mu-lmlt .'t till I'' .^^ .'^* , ^,,„„. ,„„.
,,,,0, u.vcTthc-loHS was ,„v(Ust nH«.U .. u> nn .1. lo, t,
tol.l.^.^unl.^:u^lot•tl.eHU.ulm;r 15a u.
York M.c last this tit.u., n.y i-assa.i^a. ..imlC *' y^' J?" .
Si;';;;;: .';r:!i iv n'> -:;;l ^.o-u. .i,y,o,K. .. u.
n!: York A.-a.U.ny of Musj.. m th. u.onn...., an.l tlu,
(.th.r at Urooklyn in the ovrmn.u'. ..notions
W'Ul. .1 lu'iirt swo iMi antl au'itatcMl it\ an uu «-ni _
Iwas an uliot; that Mi. H— , ' \;;^ , i,-,,;, „„iv th.we
hi. that I di.l not know '';''^^;-.,. [;;;^\ .'"^'i' hvi.n.lsl.ips
;3f;;iu;;aS^s.;;yrr ;:^^^^^^ inva-iahu. ,^.
Ji^^ 'u^kiJ^ a CO.;;; 'liahou t^ aU that I lo.e that .
good and generous? ^^^.^ ^
T h..vo been Dhuiged for four days in Tartarus. Poa-
IS:
oL'ii PAssicxnKns.
'.v\i
tho vosspunud tho
ci>«. 'riif unliifUy
Wiis l()St,M>iiu- one
I (•(inccrtrt at N'cw
riiiLC takou. SoiiK'
syiiiitiitliy ivi(l till'
"tlu'so last soim's.
Olio tli<y,oiU' at the
iiioriiuig'', antl tho
by all tho oinotloiH
lose wo lovo hv'w^A
iho unknown, I oiii-
Arii'l. On loaviiiii;
I there. Every liu'o
tender, m«>ro syni-
hecauieinterestiiiij;.
l-e.l, by feeling' tlu'Ui
sible tbreatlrt I wart
(lid it matter to ino
il in his journal that
\v Vork', ailirnied in
i roeaUinj: only those
tho kind tVieiitlshiiid
D tho invariable pul»-
n so many eoneertsll
vividly than joy. It
ions ert'usions ot" Mr.^
rid of the attacks of
all that I lose that ia
April 8.
>-s in Tartarus. Pea-
in, but the sea i_s now
ng a eigar (whieh on
li^), our" bravo little
ir. My thoughts lose
fifteen" hundred miles
all those whom I love!
•rs, many of whom arc
emigrants. In the first class we form the most hetercgc*
lU'iiiiM iissemlilage that can iM)s>ilil_v lie iniaiiiind I Singers;
Striglia, Misses rhiHi[is, Sciiiiri Orlaiidi, Ki>ssitli, Mr.
Mu/.ii>, Miss Simon, his wife (thev urrc married the vi'ry
iiiiirninix of our dciiarturc), I )an Sctchell, ihc talented actor,
a riiiti'd States maishnl (nt' swcet and amiaiilc nianiicis),
a Judge, a lawyer, a person of gross and sour manners,
who meddles in everybody's business, ami contradicts
I'very one, treads on your toes without asking panloii, and
]nits his eiKH'iiious eliair in the most ero\v<lcd places, ami
wlure there is tlii' least rooin. There are al->o a number of
seiiatt'i's and doetors, amiable peopli! who make themselvi's
agrt'cable to everybody, and three ininistcis, who preach
olliciaily twice on Sunday, and olliciou>ly the whole day
during tliewi'ek; Home ladies, ami a considcrabK- rt'sidiio
of that wi'll-known class of panseiigers without exprosion
whose business seems to be to repeal fro'-, time to tinu' -
'• Kino weather," "Tolerably hot," "Dinner will soon be
ready," and other e(|UaIly iuteri'sting nniarks, whose
momentary clearness seems only to augment the obscurity
into which tliey again litll after having ventured these re-
markable observations.
"We have many la<lies, but they are all married, two of
them liaving lighted the torch of hymen the <lay of theii'
dcjiartiire. One of them, a foreigui'r, takes the greatest
]iossible care in being where her husband is not. ' Flirta-
tion," as iar as concerns us old bachelors, is very rare here,
and I, isolated and alone, conti'iit myself with olwrving.
I see, as the day <lcclines, each happy couple r-ceking a lone
eoriier, and tliis involuntarily recalls fo me the poor tiim-
ished ones who suck in the savoury llavours whieh escape
from the kitchen window.
April 12.
In sight of the port of Aspinwall.
During our dinner, a second-class passenger has written
for anmsi'inent a bill of faro which lie has nailed to the
quarter-deck.
The heading is a tortoise, very well drawn, with a chim-
ney on his back and a wheel on eaiOi sidi', representing the
steamer Ariel, on which we are, and wliich is known as
the slowest steamer on the lino.
848
A'orA'A' Of A riAMsr.
BBCOND CLASS -THREE HUNDRED DOLLARS.
(Nolliiiij; t'Xliii lor iiiuttlK.)
lUI.I. <»K FAIIK,
Dl.NNKH.
>S'oh;i«.
VandcrliUtiilluii,
Turtl.',
(mruU'liuil out)
Tuiki'y,
(■I'rittrlii'il <jiU)
Lniiili,
(KCIUIl'llI'll nut)
Cliicki'ii,
(hlTBtilnil out)
OynttTH,
(»'crulflicil uul)
(iriM'ii l'(>n«,
(MlUtclll-l "111)
JoruHaloin Artichokt'H,
Hiiki'il Hcans,
(ncrulcliiil (pul)
Minri'il Pio,
(m-nitiliiMl Milt)
Aiiti'ilihiviaii I'ie,
C. S. Army I'ii-,
lllMlSl,
Gutta IVreha,
Boiled.
Owl,
OvHtcT.
(armti'lii'il uut)
Odiwc,
(■c'rillrliiMl 1)111)
HlM.f.
(ncrulclicd uut)
Ilaiii.
(mritli'liiKl out)
Fried.
Hoot lloeU,
Viyelahle».
Boets (dJHeased),
Side Di»hf».
Hard-tack (it la Monitor), Lolintor Salad.
(Kcrutcliuil uut)
Pilot Hroad (iV la Iron-
sidoM),
Ilaiii and Mjik'S.
(mriitilH J I'Uij
("aiilillowiT.
(scrutiiii'il out)
Dessert.
Custard Pit',
(Hcnilclii'il out)
Drifd Cin'uiiil'i'r Pii'.
Extras.
Tomato Ki'tchnp,
Pleaso roport any civilities on the part of waiters
Jco Water.
CABIBBKAK STEAM-l'BINTKBg.
This itrovos little in thvt^ir of the tahle. From the first
abiu I eaii judge vi' the Bccoml, and the sutire is just antl
Oil
true.
ii
A.^ri\\\u.L.
MO
DOLLARS.
stcT.
mrlKMl out)
IIMC,
rnlriiiMl oiil)
.•f.
rulclicil uiit)
111),
ritli'liuti out)
mi (ind V.fiiii*.
riiti'lii'U »ui)
lllillllWIT,
ruuiii'd uut)
.•rutiliL'<l liut)
usUnl Pie,
irulrlii'il mil)
riod C'liciinil'iT Pio.
Water.
lo. From the first
e satire is just uiul
IHAITKR XXll.
Al-ril 12.
Ei,i;vi:\ (i'cli)ck ill tin' iiioniiiiu;. l.iiinl in ^iu'lit. Wc
Hci! till' inoiiiitaiiis ut' New (iri'iiadii risiiiir up on llic li<>ii-
Z(»li. At two o'clock wc (lis,' .trnish Asiiiiiwall ; some
wliito hoiisi's, ill the luiilst of wliicli (lit' Aiuciiciiii tlai;
.lonts in till' bri't'/i-; a littli- I'lirtlicr on a I'roti'stant clniicli
of cut stone ami ( Jothic aivhitcctiirt' jircsi'iits n sintrnlar
I'tfi'ct ill tlic midst of the [laliii-trees ami haiiilioos which
Hiirronml it. Aspinwall is still only u > Uaire; itsiopnla-
tion tloes not exceed one thousand souls, two-thinls of
which is eoniposcd of neirrocs; hut, thaiiUs to the flux and
reHiix of travellers, wlio every tive or six days cross the
isthmus from one ocean to the other, it lias a certain com-
mercial impoi'tanee and extraordinary animation. It wakes
up imnietliately on the arrival of u steamer. Hardly at the
-vvharf, the steamer is invaded hy ney'ro porters with lai'u'o
pointi'd honnets on their heads,' wliieh recall those of tlio
aistroloi^ers, maile from the strintry hark of a tree, and are
of the colour of tow. We have ureat tronhle to keep otf
tliis turhulent otlicions HWarm, who seizo hy fotve every
]>ackaire that is in slight, and without disqiiietinir them-
selves ahout the proprietor, luid whether you are willin,!^
or unwillinj;, carry it on land. At a hundred yards from
the wharf wo find ourselves in a street, about Hve hundred
yards long, in Avhieli every house is a hotel. There are
twelve or" fifteen, one after another, all American. They
are one-story frame-houses with a porch. The roof extends
above the porch, wliieh is sustained by beams, and formw
a veranda on the grounil floor.
The netr'- ss fniit-sellers abound. They are elad in white
muslin fro\ IS, low in the neek, with short sleeves. The
colour of til, dress is sullied by the dust, scorehed by the
sun, and rumpled by the rain. Eight or ten rows of
fiounces are ru.iged one above the other as high as the
80
3o0
NOTES OF A PIAXIST.
waist. Bare foot. They followed us, offering ns_ in poor
Kiiii-lish, l.iiiuuias, cocoa-mits, oran^c^^s, and some eigars, tor
whu'li tlu-y made us pay ten times their value. 1 buy
Bonie bananas. '• How I'nueliV" I said to her. " Fitty
eents," she answered me. I giv- her a dollar note, wln<-h
she returns to mo, ]n-eterring not to sell to taking i>aper.
The smi is Lurning hot. ^Ve enter, while waitmg the
dej.arture of the train, the ^Toward Hotel, kept hy Mrs.
Smith, an Ameriean. Unfortunately for me, there is a
piano in the lar-re hall. The ])assengers assemble and toree
me to yilay. Tl'ie instrument is from the factory of Kaven
k Baeon, of Xew York; it numbers many lustres, an(l one
lives fast under the tropics.- The strings havcMiot resisted
the climate. Some low notes remain. I utilize them by
plavino- a semblance of my '13anjo,' and clear out.
the' train leaves. It is full. Tlie road is lined Avitli
thick junudes of mangles, bind-weed, ba.iiboos, and palms.
Sometimes the road widens : then we perceive one or two
farmers' huts. Their architecture is primitive: there are
four beams, on Avhich is i.laced; at four or five feet from
the earth, a roofing of palm-leaves. The soil around the
cabin is still black fnmi the fire, which, by Inirning the
forest, has opened a clearing in the midst of this chaos of
vegetatii>n, which grows so rapidly in this warm and
humid soil.
The crossing is made from ocean to ocean m two hours
and a half. We are running alongside of a pretty little
river. Six t)"clock in the afternoon. Arrived at I'anama.
Salvo Atlanric! (Jarrison in full dress ; six negroes and
one mulatto under arms formed in line near the wharf.
^Vc embark in great confusion on a boat which transjiorts
us to the steamer, Avhich is two or three miles out at
sea. The city of Panama, proper, extends for some dis-
tance. The "houses are of Snanish architecture, heavy,
massive, and square, which the laziness of the inhabitants
leave to fall in ruins. An Americati resident assures me
that ten houses have not been built since the departure ot
the Siianianb . Two clock towers overlook the city ; it is
the cathedral. It is as dilapidated as the rest. The roof
])crmits the rain to pass through. The statues of the samts
in the interior, of painted wood, arc rotten and worm-eaten.
ISLE OF PJJARLS.
i)ii\
fcnng iiB ill poor
. Honio cigars, tor
c'ir value. 1 Imy
to her. " Fifty
lollar note, which
) taking pajtcr.
ivhile waiting the
tcl, Iccpt Ity'Mrs.
>r inc, there is a
issonible and force
factory of Kaven
ly histres, and one
have )iot resisted
I utilize them by
clear out.
oad is lined Avith
nboos, and palms,
rceive one or two
mitivc: there are
or five feet from
lie soil around the
■h, hy burning the
^t of this chaos of
1 this warm and
icean in two hours
i of a pretty little
rrived at I'anaina.
5 ; six negroes anil
le near the wharf.
,t which transports
liree miles out at
LMids for some dis-
L-chitecture, heavy,
of the inhabitants
•esident assures me
•e the de}>artare ot
ook the city ; it is
;he rest. The roof
<tatues of the saints
en and worm-eaten.
The doors are oft' their liinges, and hang on one side at the
entrance of the church.
An adroit prestidigitateur, 1 was ti>ld, found tiie means
of di'awing four or live hundred dollars last >vcck from this
miscralde borough, lie announced two representations in
the following style: —
"Homage of tlie a!l-l'owerful Devil." Mr. will give
two representations in miitjio, the product of which, alter
deducting all expenses, will be consecrated to repairing tbe
cathedral rool",and making new doors. The hall wasiilU'd.
The rei'eii its were eight hundred dollars, of which the devil
(or his disciple) took one-half under jiretext of expenses.
Some one assured me that wax-lights are wanting for the
service of religion, and that there is no money to buy them.
Apathy, lazii'ie.ss, and liltii every:,here ; nol)ody is willing
to work. "When their houses (built by ti'c Spaniards whom
they execrate, and to whom nevertheless they owe the little
civilization that remains to them) iidl into ruins, they prop
them ui» with planks or build them up again as well as tiny-
can ; they stop up the ga^is with stones, which they take
from the" wall that encircles the town, arid which to-ilay is
everywhere tumlding down under the double attack of time
and of the wretched builders who have made a (piarry
of it.
On board the steamer Constitution. A splendid steamer,
which makes a still greater contrast Avith that nut-shell —
the Ariel — wliicli we have just left. Th<> heat is excessive,
and produces a malaise, Avhicli we feel doubly fromthe ab-
Beuee of ice. Here, as on the Ariel, the ANiiter is luke-
varm. "We have to pay twenty-tlve cents extra fir a lew
small pieces of ice, and again the bar has to be closed, like
last evening, at ten o'clock.
A pcarrtishery exists on a small island (Isle of Pearls)
one mile from the coast; few are now found, nevertheless
lately a pearl was fished up which was sold i'or eight thou-
sand dollars to the Prince of AVales. The fishery has be-
come dangerous on aeco.mt of the number and daring of
the sharks which are found swimming close in to shore.
I have said that the Constitution is the finest steamer
that I have yet seen, but I am not on that account willing
Ji
352
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
to say that there nu^^it not bo many improvement^ in vari-
ous things which concern the interior.
April 14.
I have not slept for three days. I nm not in Califnrnia,
and I have ah-eady a foretaste of what the^contests are a
prLs of 'squatter^" rights and theories My body it ap-
pears was in the possession of a company of squatters, who,
when 1 wished to estal>lisli myself, were in t.dl activity, an<
Imve <lefended inch by uidi their ground, an. have chased
e away. The mos.,uitoes of Cuba, and ot the swainps of
Louisiana, are certainly disagreeable, bm there is ^""H-thmg
bold in their attack and even m their deicat ; there i^ mmuo-
thin.r in their little trumpeting which comniaiuls respect,
secMnin- to Bav,"lhTo I am, defend ^y^ourselt ; 'but these
smdl obscure V/impires-these 'B flats''-as <.ne of my a.ly
friends music-ally c-alls them, are hateful ^^> 'f ' l^^'^f ^ I
crawl silentlv out of their dens and proht bv the darkness
to accomplish on their sleeping victims their sanguinary
""""'have respeetfullv su-gested that pei-haps cleanliness
mi-ht arrive at a satisfactory result aganist the mvasions
of these pioneers, but the steward a mulatto belongs to the
genus grandiloquent, species msolent, and I draw l'^^'- ^^ "
fused fbr having disturbed the serenity ot lus august tem-
^'^Thislloes not badlv resemble the hotel at St. Louis, Avhicli
has ma-nificent corddors, but n(.thing to hear them with in
whiter: when the thermometer pomts to the cold ot bibeiia.
Here is a saloon one hundred and fifty feet long, and splen-
did in every way. No ice-water, the first tlimg necessary
for -ui American. Gildings all an.und, but l.ed-bugs (13
Ss^Ve'where. An hmir aiid a half at biMe to ea^^ no-
thing good; abundance of meat and vegetables, all bauly
'"''ate\lull monotony of the life on board continues to
unfold slowly and heavily <hiy by dav under the beat o
an atmosphcVe like a lea<l foun.lry, like a benumbed boa
Blowlv unfolding his rings to the perpendicular rays of an
African sun. The sun cooks us, roasts us niclts us, and
reddens us; hi the bhudc it is a hot air bath, m the sun a
THE SEW niilDE.
Oiii
'ovementf in van-
April 14.
not in ( alifornia,
the t'ontosts are &
. My body it ap-
if ' sfiuatters,' wIk^
1 full artivity,an(l
I, and have cliased
of tlie swamps of
there is something
.'at ; then; is some-
•onnnands ves|)eet,
lurself;"' but these
-as one of my lady
o me, because they
tit liy the dai'l<;ness
■i tlieir sanguinary
perhaps cleanliness
jainst the invasions
iatto, belongs to the
d I (Inuv back eon-
of his august tem-
at St. Louis, which
hear them with hi
the cold of Siberia,
■eet long, and splen-
irst tliiuii necessary
(1, but l)ed-bugs (B
If at table to eat no-
-egetables, all badly
board continues to
r mider the heat of
ke a bcmnnl)ed Itoa
endicular rays of an
Is us, melts us, and
.r bath, in the sun a
shrivelling. For fourteen hours in the day we are panting,
and every moment fi-ightened at seeing our sweat stream-
ing lest we siiould be turned to a fountain. Tiie night
succeeds the sun with all the s])leudours of tin- firmament
and the [)li()sphorescent strcannugs of the sea, but there is
no breeze. Whilst we are gasping, sutfocating, for want
of air, !)reatliiiig paiid"idly like a stranded fish on the
beach, I am tempted to cry out as at the Lindcll Hotel,
"For mercy's sake less display and more comfort. Fewer
stars and a little more breeze! some airl some air! some
air ! I sidibcate ! 1*'
Sunday, April 16.
The Episcopal service is read by the purser — the ride on
board limits its duration to forty minutes. A reverend had
ottered his services, but the I'orty nunutes' clause seemed
like an attack u[ion his dignity and ho retired.
The new bride appears the oftenest possible where her
husband is not, in which the gigantic proportions of the
steamer wonderfully assist her. There would be much
to write al)Oiit humanity such as it appears on board.
Sympathies and anti[»athies, attractions and repulsions
have time to manifest themselvos. Passengers find their
level as the dull calm after the horrors of a storm. Our
singers (like all those who make merchandise of music)
arc already (luarrelling. To establish harmony among
nnisicians is as impossible as to find an Irish immigrant
who v»'ould refuse to take from you a glass of whiskey, or
a AVestern man wlio would ask pardon for treading on
your toes.
Our captain, a fine old follow, who weighs three hundred
pounds, evidently likes his dinner; he keeps us an hour
and a half at table. When one, in a small comjiany of
five or six friends around a well-served table, after having
dined well, stojis to taste the' dessert and under the intlii-
ence of the delicious letliargy which accompanies a good
digestion, in taking a glass of wine, prolongs the time
by talking, nothing is more sensible; but after having
swallowed with a grimace some i'vw spoonfuls of peii]iered
hot water, after having courageously wrestled with a
I
3.U
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
],iecc' of ■icof hard as ])ono, one is ooiidoiiinod to iiitcrl'idos
ol' twi'iity inimitc's betwwu wu-h course, and that at a table
laid tor two hundred persons, in the midst of a tU'afening
niiroar, with an atmosphere lailened with the conihined
va]>ours of two huiuhvd ]ilates of hot water and hwt
leather, it is more than any one tdiould reipiire from the
most induliient voyaijer.
1 have fortunati'ly taken the hahit of goins; on deck
between eaeh course. I have for this purpose a large book,
a ueographieal dictionary, which from its shape gives me
a high degree of respectability among many pen^-'is who
think that it is a Uible.
They arc serving the jjcppered hot Avater. Five mmutes.
I iio up on deck and read for half an hour.
^Xeat's leather. Fifteen nunutes. Three tini-s that ior
the soup, the process of deglutition by mastication bchig at
least seveuty-tivc degrees more difficult than ^;at l)y
in"-urii-itation. Half an hour on the deck to_ )\;a I. AVe
mnv then have disposed of an hour, fiftecii minutes addi-
tional made to it, now comes the curry which takes a half
an hour to serve, etc. etc.
The young foreigner (German) having coi imued more
and more to avoid" the presence of her husbiind is, acci-
dentally it apiiears, often found in thi,» "onipa.. d" another
)assenger. The husband, Avho has soi; o notions about tlie
loneymoou which his young wW'o does not t-have in, is
leard this e\oning •■■ make threats of a revolver. Shall
we have a drami^ j\\ iAu\"d\
April 19.
Acapuleo (Mexico) is in sight. After having doubled
a lartre rock the city(?), some huts whose roofs are covered
Avith^palm trees, presents itself to our view. Seated at the
bottom of a pretty little bay on the edge of the beach,
it runs back to the Sierni (a mountam) covered with
forests and thick vegetation. We must take in coal here.
Scarcely have we anchored when we see ourselves sur-
rounded by a crowd of canoes made from the truidcs ot
trees hollowed out bv fire, manne<l by Indians. They are
clothed in white lini'n drawers; their heads are covered
with broad - brinnned straw hats. They sell bananas,
THE LITTLE ISDIAX CIUL.
855
110(1 to iiitorl'idos
1(1 that at a tabic
8t of a (loatbiiiuj;
[\\ tlio ((iiiiltiiH'd
water and \n\'\'
I'LHiuirc from the
f going oil (leek
[X)se a large book,
s shape gives lae
any pen"'>>4 who
>r. Five minutes.
r.
ree tinn's that for
istication behig at
It thaii ^;at by
!ck to !..;(■ I. AV_e
'('U minr.tes addi-
\\\u\\ takes a half
g CO) ^inuod more
• hus'inuid is, acei-
ins|i;i.,. >f another
notions about tlie
5 not share in, is
a revolver. Shall
April 19.
er having doubled
e roofs are covered
ew. Seated at the
>dge of the beach,
ain) covered with
t take in coal here.
see ourselves sur-
i-oni the tnuiks of
Indians. They are
heads are covered
fliey sell bananas,
ornuffos, shell-work, Avhito corals. I was lioping tc> huy
soukT pearls, l)Ut the bay is so hifested by sharks (tintoi-
reras) for some time that the lishing has become very
(liHicult. Last week I am told they carried off eight
imprudent tishcrmeu. On land the beach is covered with
Indians, some s(iuatthig before ].ilcs of fruit, otlering to us
their merchandise in broken English; others, the greater
number, jairsue us, offerim; u^* lu'cklacis of slu'lis and
coloured glass and little I'ms for the head, of shell and
glass-work. A. little Indian girl importunes me,_ she is
"most anxious to sell me some. Expressive and singular
style, white teeth, olive tint. The absence ('f clothes (at
least thev are very scanty) is more than compensate' i)y
the abuiidance of 'her ban- and the largeness of her eyes.
She ends by sticking a pin in my collar, which she abs(v
lutely wishes to make a present of "al hcnuoso cavallero."
The proceeding was too gracious for the 'cavallero' not
to respond to it I gave her a real. Bad lurk t«_) me. In
a moment I Avas surrounded with a swarm of Indians,
small, larii-e, old, and young, vociferating, disputing; the
possession Of me, who pounced down on me like vultures
on a lamb, load me with pins which they stick in me every
where. The 'hnuiioMo ctivaUrro' looks like a pin-cushion.
"The Yankees please me, I love blondes, I have made a
present to the cavallero, the cavallero in return will make
me one." The only way I have to get out of theham'.s
of my brown sirens is to give to them a handful of reals,
and I see them rush on another 'cavallero' and stick him
also full of pins. ,
The houses are miserable huts, the ground plots ot whicii
are c vered with beaten lime. The streets are not paved,
and the footway for the foot passengers, two feet Avide, rn-
alouijside the houses from four to live feet abo\'e the K
of tlie street. . n . i
The church, to all appoaran(>c most miserable, is closed;
I am sorry for it for 1 Avish to see it. The house of Mie
' I'adre' is pointed out to me. lie sleeps, his d(miesti( ...lis
me, a vcrv prettv young Indian girl, on my introducii l;- my-
self Th(i ' Tadi-e!' a fat fellow, is in his hammock. '< re-
ceives mcA^erv iiolitely, and calls the sacristan to let iiu see
tiie church, 'it (jtfers nothing remarkable excejit the decay
^1
t«
M
856
NOTES OF A PIAXrST.
into which its altars, its doors, and its statnos are fallen.
Abovo the inuiL of a saint tliii'L! is a iiapor on which I
road, in lari,^' writing and in unaguiativo Spanish orthogni-
]ihy, "■ Evoiy one too poorto Imy medicines for lierself will
be 'instantly cnred if she makes her devotions Avith sutKeient
fervonr before this image."
Tn one corner, snspended to the wall, is a, mnltitudeof
ex-votos. Tbese are tignres of wax or tin, in lead or gilt-
iia[)er (according to the means of the giver), representing
legs, cj-es, and ears. "When they are suffering from some
disease the devotees suspend belbre the imajo or_ altar of
the saint oi' their pretV-rence, a fac-simile of ihe siek part,
and patiently await their cure.
Eveiywhere tlie hiage of idleness, of indiffercnoe, of
apatliy, of ignorance, i.nd of tilth. In every liouse we per-
ceive women lying in their hanunocks, or men indolently
scpiattini; do^\"n or extended in the shade. Everywhere
inunobility. Civilization will never be able to galvanize
these people wliose soul is buried under the triple layer of
torpor, idleness, anil inertness.
A long hut, l)efore wbi(;h some flint guns are ranged on
a rack, rcjiresent.' the g lard-house. Ten or twelve Indians,
half-naked, lying on their face around a pack of cards,
are playing. " AVMituiel, lazily leaning on his gun, follows
the play eagerly with his eyes.
One of tlie soldiers asks me if I have any news from
" los Franceses." " Is it true tinit the Emperor is obliged to
recall his troops?" Is the Senor an Englishman?" "Xo,"
I tell him, " I am a liussiau ofiicer." "Ah 1 the Serior," sai I a
sergeant tomi'l'toently to me, "wished to see great fighting.
Don IMcgu Vlvarez' (Avith emphasis as one wotild speak of
the ixreaf Xapokvin) will teach the French maimers. He
is in the motmtains, hi.? son connnands here in his absence.
(Theii with idl the swagger of his raee, and straightening
himself I'l* into a theatrical pose) " ^Ve have killed more
than thicty thousand of them in the Sierra." After this
-".eech be straightens hin.self like a bully and gazes around
» V ."{TO Alvdivz, an old T.iui.in, is for tlio Indian Mexicans of the Pncific
■Khiil NaiK'li'nii was for tlio "id G\iard. He is tlieir Lod, tlieir l)eriu-ideal,
tt/"ir idol. Tliis old -reneval, who is eifrlity years old, >,'ov(>rns tlie wliole
Mexican side of the I'ac-iliu. and Iwasts that he has ntver been euiKiiiered.
itnos arc falloii.
ij»or on wliic'li I
liinisli oi'tlK)i!;rii-
Ibr liersdf will
rf -with sufficient
a multitude of
in k'iul or gilt-,
r), ropri'sontiiig
ring tVoiu some
liar or altar of
)f the sick part,
iiidiffercncc, of
y house we [)cr-
men indolently
0. Everywhere
Ae to galvanize
e triple layer of
s arc ranged on
• twelve Indians,
paek of cards,
his gun, follows
any news from
eror is obliged to
hman?" '^'Xo,"
he Seiior," sai 1 a
le great fighting.
would speak of
h manners. lie
' in his absence."
id straightening
ave killed more
ra." After this
nd gazes arouutl
Bxieans of tho Pncifio
(1(1, their bcriu-idcnl,
(1, govcnirt tlii> wiidlo
jviT beon (.'uiKjiioiod.
BCT OXE XAT/')X—nr-M.\\/TY.
3o7
liini to receive the tokens of admiration — dui' to native
lici'oism.
The Louisiana Hotel is a house of less miserable ajipt'ar-
ance than the others. The landlord is a fat man who is a
Frenchman, not to be mistaken if one may judge by this
speech, which he addressed to the Indians lying befori' his
doors.
" Sacre tas do canaille voulez vous bien me ficher le
Camp," and for a iteroration he administered, right and left,
some blows to a group of young pin merchants, who had
again discovered me and hoped to recommence their opera-
tions on the ' cava Hero.'
"You arc a Frenchman, sir," I say to him.
"Xo, sir (with emphasis), I am from Xew Orleans."
The love of country is a prejudice I will admit, I even
know it.
The travellers' life, which I have led, has singularly en-
larged the circle of those whom I regard as compatriots.
From seeing men under every form in all latitudes re-
semble each other, though changed in name, 1 iiave little
by little arrived at recognizing that there is really but one
nation — humanity; but one country — the globe; but one
code, that of Justice and morality. Nevertheless, the memo-
ries of our first years, our first atl'ections, live at the bottom
of our hearts, and this old tavern-keej'cr saying to me in
this obscure hole on the coast of the I'acific, '"I am tVom
Xew Orleans," awakening all at once my sleeping memo-
ries, in a moment became a friend.
"I also," I said to him, "am from Xew Orleans." An ac-
(piaintance was quickly made. He recounted to me all his
afiiiiiv, las life, etc. lie kept a restaurant at Lake I'on-
ohartrain.
" What men these Creoles are ! Another thing from your
Yankees'." (Here he gave way to his hatred for the Yan-
kees.)
Tlie poor man hated the Xorth without being acquainted^
witli it. After having asked me the news about nian\' of
the best known people of Xew Orleans, he spoke to me of
Mor]iliy, the chess-player.
"There is glory for Louisiana! Ihit from his chililhood
he showed what' he would be some da v. lie is not like
IT
ii
"I
k
858
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
nnotlior little i^ro.litjy, Gottsclmlk, who i.roiniso(l;aarvl-
L.iis tl.ii.-s, and whose father sent him to Kumpe lu hopes
of makiir-- a i,nvat musician of him. Nohody has hear. I
imvthinsi more sai.l ahout him. What has he.'ome .. h.m t
1 ;.(,nfess that 1 f.mnd myself a little emharrasse.l in an-
flwerin.-- this iniestion. My self-esteem was e(msi.1erahly
hurt 1 tol.l him the little j.ro(litr,V was still a inanist, aiKl
that'without havii.o- preeisefy realized the expeetatKnis ot
his eountrymenj.e had notwithstanding eontmncd to nnoiIv
''^''iris"i.ossihle, hut I have never heard him ^pokeii of,''
replied the old man, who evidently had a grudge against
th' infant prodigy, who had disapi.ointetl the hopes ot his
1 tat riot ie love. ^ , . , ,
We have an excellent dinner, home hir.ls, whose names
I for.a't, as fat as ortolans. I reeommciul this ol<l tavern-
keeper to travellers. At tahlo wc are waited on hy a tun
waiter in shirt sleeves, wli^se hody, squeezed at the w al^
by a leather hand, is surmounted by a countenanee wrmkle.l
into fol.ls, set otf by Umg, ilat loeks ot gray ]^^ Jj^^
effect of this mummy-like eountenanee ona l)od> eiglityn
years old is impossible to describe. "Monsieur is trom >ew
Orleans," said this diso-uised old man, ui a falsetto voice wi h
a French lisp, in smartly takin- away Irom ine my l.'^^te a
prettv town which has consoled me tor leaving 1 aris. .\li.
Paris', sir, my youth, my well-formed leg, and my arm so
.iurnp, as the'sono. .ay^. If it was not for M" uushand I
shoulil never work for- these Mexican savages.^ I then un-
derstood that this young sexagenarian waiter is the wite ot
my host, who, through an cxe-ss of caution, more preten-
tious thLu justifiable, had renoimeed (these Mexicans are
such sava"-es) the dress of her sex.
Whilst" ve are dining, Don Juan Alvarez, the son of the
old guerrilla, a.ul the actual governor, I'^'^^^^'^-.^^'jtl' 'i^
taniily. They are going to_ visit mir steamer ,^Se n
is an' Indian with insigmhcant teatures. lis \m> -"k
^Siter carry umbrella^, wear silk dresses, gold cluuns and
necklaces, ear-rings, brooches rmgs,enibr.ndered sWa^^^^^^^
criiu)lines They walk with all tlie stittness ot Imi'f'^
wiTh their Sunday clothes on, ridiculously .inmblod to-
gether ; full of pride in parading themselves in these >upei-
I
•ornised Tiiarvol-
Kurojio ill li('|K's
iluxly luw hriinl
n'comc of liiiu't"'
InUTiissc'd ill iin-
as ('()nsi(U'ral)ly
ill a iiianist, and
cxiK'ctatidiis of
utiimcd to work
him fjpokcn of,"'
I grudgo against
the hopos of his
■ds, Avhoso nanios
this old tavern-
tod on hy a thin
ozod at tho waist
tcnanc'O wriukk'tl
gray hair. The
I'a hody eiglitccn
lieiir is from Xew
alst'tto voice with
1 me my plate, "a
ving I'aris. Ah!
, and my arm so
for M" UUSBANl) I
iges." I then un-
iter is tho wife of
ion, more preteii-
ese Mexicans are
oz, the son of the
passes with his
luier. ])on J nan
5. His wife and
s, gold chains and
)idere(l shoes, and
ffness of Indians
uslv innibled to-
'es m tlxese super-
DEMii or f.i.xcof.y.
3oU
anniiated fashions, which must have had tlicir day aiiKMig
the hiuksters of the temple; tliey attain altogetlier the
heiiiht of the grotes(pie wiien they tliink to attain the sum-
mit of I'arisiiiii elegance.
1 ill as Aeapulco is, it acts as an agreeable diversuMi to
the monotony of the ship, and it is not witliout regret that
we slowly return, and soon the huge rock hehind which we
are disapiK'aring coiici-als from our eyes the miserahle huts,
the church, and even the little dismantled Sj.anisli fort which
defends ('.') Acapnli-o, and here we are agaui iihmged aiU'W
ill the dull routine of the steamer.
April 23.
A steamer in sight! It is the Golden City, wliich left
San Francisco two days ag<->. The captain comes on hoard,
and, in the midst of questions from all the i)assengers that
ciii'umi)er the staircase, hurls these words like tliimderholts,
" Kichmond is taken," "Lee has surrendered," " JJncoln has
been assassinated."
The news, more or less true, wliich has been transmitti'd
to us since the commencement of the \air, has reiidi'red us
incrediihais. Nothing is more prohaljle than that Lee has
surrendered, since, on the morning of our departure from
New York, the news of the taking of Petershurg was con-
iinued, hut the death of Lincoln! Some dispute i'or the
paiiers; a passenger has mounted in the rigging, iind has
been requested to' read with a loud voice. Alas! There is
no longer aiiv doul)t Lincoln is di'ad. AYe do not know
the de'Uiils of the horriitle outrage— the name only of the
assassin is mentioned— Wilkes Booth. I remember of hav-
ing seen him jilay a year ago at e'leveland. I was struck
at'^that time with the beauty of his features, and at the
same time l)y a sinister ex[)ressi'>ii of his countenance. I
would even say that he hacl somethhig deadly in his look.
A literary lady among my friends who knew him then,
told me tiiat he had as much natural talent for the stage as
his brother Kdwin, but that his violent and fantastic char-
acter would not permii him to jiolish the natural brutality
of his manners any more than to restrain the fury of his
acting within the (U-dained limits of art.
I never recollect having seen a more atlecting sight than
800
yOTKS OF A riASlST.
that „r.<cM,tc..l l.v tlH. hnnu.n>. .Uvk <.f tlu" Coii.ti utum.
T 1.1...: tiH- -.. .vsi.K.,..K.Mt tiu. sou ;«;;"'»;;'
,u tmv i.-n.s to s.nilo ahovo our l.ra. s, o .•..hUt tlu. n . -
t ml HH ...... C: us. StntMuv ;u..l inoxphmM.- tlin,-'.! M-o
m.n 1.<.H0 who slunv th. hast .vmvts A.onn.l n..
n i m vs ..f tlu. s..a.iK-n Icnvc- tho l.a.lly .Ih.r.l t.a.v>
, i irt Imn.ls, wcvi.. as if hv l.a.ljust lost a atlH.;. Al
^,, !, .Munsurahlr i,n- . f. The wonu-i., att.r htivn.g sh..!
XVt .a.tivi.sc.f thc.assassi,,,an.l tlir ....■a..^^....l.l'0«''l
1 ;i h, .a v. IWr a lonj^ tin.e sus,. u.l that the woman
?l. weens so easily tor so n.any su,K.rtl..al p-.ets, ,.oss^.jjvs
y l^s sensihility than n.an. Sl.e has her .;:'•;<' ;^^
K mroxysu.sof enthusiasm or i.f •Iv^l'l'"'' ^^^'^ ^'" ^
or mi bound to the heights of ]-l'"^: ^'"Vv^Jer
sultan her there. These are irrational nui.ulses,h3''teiKal
' riJi vvliieh lose in depth what they pun m surtaee
In t e l.reson.'e of a unvat sentiment they are m enoi,
the • 1 le HI I man, whose sensibility for sn.all thn.gs
':^.il';nld:r the envelope of hi. }>ffyC;^^:^}:::^X
in the nresenei. of an immense p'let, of soleum »l|'^l;'' ' /^
H , c^na •V,an.lheeoniesa-aia the n.aster,not only thro >gl;
. r< e of muscle, h.it through the greatness o In^ - u^-
AV.unan has more fre.iueutly the p.-etry ot word« than ot
ideas.
April 24, morning.
Wo arc to have a meeting 'on hoard to give <>«;;• ''''l^^-
prelion to the sentiments of grief whieh, with ^n.r^ ^^
S three exeepti,.ns, are felt hy all the passenger . 1 W
; 1 w fh merelv one or two cxeeptions, because a la I},
^te^lnirl^o' Secessionist, has\.i.hed |- toj|;yt^^
ness of t'he respect due to huiaamty so hir «« to nal > e
assassination clf Lincoln as a jndgnu-nt i.-mn ' "^ ^-J^'^^ ;^
or two other female parrots (a speces ot ^^ ' ^^^^ ^j ^;^| ^ ^^^
aredvin" for sorrow in not havmgp.it on then I'.^t ^^^w
diiss , who are exclaiming, witli philosophic, protun.hty,
" that Lhicola must have died .oojrv or later .
liESOUITloSS OS DEATH OF r./\ror..\.
n»n
ilic Constitution,
i nvi\ is calm, all
) ri'iidiT tlu' ion-
ic stillness of all
l.lc thinjr'.l Tlic
vts. Aronml nic
\- ctliiccd t races (_)t'
!• ill u coniiT, liirt
|,.st a fathiT. All
idcr ll>c wciirlit ol'
after having nhed
iiinion coirn'ctnreH
c means cmi'loyed
I that the woman,
111 trriefs, possi'sses
1-^ her ner\ ous tits,
[lair, which carrits
■liniT, hut does not
mimlses, hysterical
[ill in surtiice.
: they are interior,
ty f(n- small things
ty, taki's upon him
solenm despair, his
>r,not only through
•eatness of his sold,
y of words than of
April 24, morning.
I to give ofHcial ex-
■h, with merely two
passengers. 1 have
ons, hecause a lady,
.islicd her forgetful-
far as to (jualify the
from God ; inid one
of female dolls, who
ut on their last new
losophic profundity,
)V lakt
r"
Kvi'iiinij.
The mcetini.', presided over hy Judge Field of the
Supreme Court of the I'nited States, have voted resohitions
which accord with our feelings of lidclity to the govi'ru-
ment, of respi'ct for the meniovy of the gi-cat and good
l/nicoln, and of horror for the exccrahlc act which has
terminated his nnhle and lahorious cari-er.
Where are now thoso Irivojoiis judgments on the man
whom we i\re niug for to-day 'f His ugliness, his
awkward jokes, with which we reproached him:
all have (! sippci'i'ed in presence ol" the majc-ty ot' death.
Hi> gri'atness, his honesty, the purity of that giyat heart,
whiefi !)oats no longer, risi' n]» to-day, and in their resplen-
dent railiancy transligure him whom we called the "coiu-
niDU rail-splitter." <) Internal I'owi'r of the true and heau-
tiful! Yesterday his detractors were lidiculing his large
iiands without gloves, his large feet, his hhmtuess ; to-day
this type whicli we fountl grotcsipU' appears to us on the
threshold '^f immortalitv, and we nnde^^t;uld hy the uni-
versality of our grief what future generations will see in
him.
After the meeting, the Italian singers who are on hoard
siiif the hynm of the Hepnhlic, which 1. acconipany on the
piano. Miss Adelaide I'hillips sings with electric fei'ling the
patriotic song, 'The Star Spanirlcd IJanner.' I play my
]>ieeo, 'Union.' The enthusiasm aroused is without d<>uht
less owing to our music th)vii to the actual eir,eunistaiices.
April 2.').
"We shall arrive to-day, the captain says. Unfortunately
the fog has come up, and we are ohliged to remain (piiet
until ?t disappears. The coast hristlos with rocks, and it
is very dangerous to approacli when tlio weather is not
clear. A general disappointment. Have you taken notice
at the theatre of the precipitation with whicli every one
leaves his seut to go as soon as the i)ieee draws near the
end '( The same perst.ns who for two hours have rem.iined
motioide.-p and silent in their seats jostle and crowd each^
other, as if their life ^vas hi danger if they were accused of
beina: in the hall when the curtain falla. For my part, I
"" 31
f
302
yOTKS OF A I'lASIST.
lu.v,. oft.... olHcrvr.!, witl.o-.t u...k..-.tm..li..,u' it, tj.o im-
rl.t;:.trai..-l.a.lmath....os,,,.u...^
1. ..tln.r iiixl mem to tfV w .ohIiuU Ih' tlit.' tlint to ji uii|>
r t ;. ut I • ri^l< -f l-vaki..u thri.- l.cnul o.- thou-
\ .,'hav-u,.^ |.ati...tlv o...huv.l twc-..tv-t...n- .h.ys .../.•--
i,,i;;lh' t\'u I.OH.-S whi.h wo a.v tonvj to pus. uiotio.le..
,1 Few mili'rt In.iii i)ort hcvui lusiippoitubk- to Uf,
April 20.
Vvvy thirk fog. No i.robuhUity of cvon urrlvii.- to-.hiy.
ClIAl'TER XXITI.
April 27, morning.
TiiK sky is i.hio nm\ tho aii- is lau-o. \Vo shall be at
Sa,! Fmncisco to-lay. Wc soo .lisv,.utly th. •'.o,..,t.n
m the whole coast. The steiUi.er sl-.wly a.lva.ices. he
ri;i;;i;.u:^.hnh...sdves...,K.tieaiivtoc^
Hi.rht. We aiv e.ite.-i..tj i..to the bay. I he 1'^''., tl ...
:i:tio,., a.-e rowe..less to porfay tl-^lf-;^';;;-; j' ^ V^;
tule which is opei.ed to our eyes. To the letl tl.t i*-"!^
i^ c^ he i.u.u.,tai..s tr.-a.b.ally 'l^-V'" ' "'r/ 1 nl
S o. the sho.v e,.a...ellea with the httle ^v '> ;-' \- ^ ,
the villages. The eano..H, na.Tow passages u he. e tlu • t
ete.'u.L^ takes o.i soi.ibiv tii.ts ; the swelliiig ot he hills,
e,-eth.^vtlecti the s.n. ou the ,..tehes ot veraure
a,; lui,To.-ea a,.a coloured ^vith the ^^^^-^^^f^
n.hies a.id the ii.u.ie.ise azu.-e vault ot a sky ike .Naples,
the iiht the ^ Seal Roek,' f.-ow..i..g se.itu.el over some
a us of the beach, and on whic-h for many centu.ues ec ta m
e.lln..ous seals have estal,lisl.ed the.r 4U.u1ers,wu.e.h^
lesshodies we distinguish la.llv s eepu.g or > " ^^ ^'^^^^^^
Ki..antie leeches in the fissures ot the rock. 11^'"^^'' V
liio-h blult; the 'Clitt- House' overlooks the horizon, liom
I
^
Kliiii: it, tlic iin-
iivf imtU'iitlv «'ii-
iIk' station, l'>"*li
tlK- tiivt to .iiiiii|>
iiir lioail Of thoir
iidilioii (>i\ hoard.
tour tliiy^ ill iro^^-
to jiiisrt motioiilwd
L" to Up>.
April 26.
on urriviii;; to-iluy.
Arril 27, morning.
■0. Wc shall ho at
ctly the iiiovintaiiirt
w]y ailvaiues. _ TiK'
Ivto our astoiiiHlu'd
the 1'i.ii, till' iiiiaiii-
k'lidour of the Kiii'c-
thc left the deilivi-
'iid, and at last are
ittlc white houses of
ages wIk'1'0 the light
.welling of the hiH^,
L' patehes of verdtiro
retlex of opals and
f a sky liko Naples,
g sentinel over sonio
imy centuries eertain
uiM-ters, whose sliajie-
Uig or erawling like
roek. IManted on a
s the horizon. From
*>.
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
l^|28
men HM^^M
m
21
2.2
1
40
2.0
1.8
11.25 ill 1.4 111.6
6"
m
e
n
m.
Photographic
Sdences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
m
CIHM/ICMH
Microfiche
Series.
CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.
Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques
THE ''GOLDEN GATE:
3(33
a balcony, many jiersons witli long spy-glasses aiv watclihig
us coming in. Tlio 'C'lirt" House' is six miles from Sun
Francisco, and is a rendezvous for ]>edestrians, eJjuestrians,
an<l carriages. They go there to eat oAsters, and to see the
seals at a few yards from the beach carelessly enjoy thcm-
seb'-'s without being frightened at the approacli of the
curious, their "security never having been troubled, thanks
to a local ordinance which prohibits any harm being done
to them under penalty of a tine.
"We cannot yet see San Francisco, the city being built at
the bottom of the bay, and the latter making an elbow.
Fort Alcatraz* lifts from the middle of a little island in
the bay its gray walls. It incloses all the political prisoners
compromised during the war, and those accused of burning
tlie steamer Panama. Two or three hundred American
soldiers constitute the garrison of this desolate and sterile
rock, on which there is not a drop of water and not a blade
of grass. We are still going ahead! AVe aii' turning a
promontory on our right, and the port of San Francrsco
opens on our view.
The ' Golden Gate,' the entrance of the ba}', surpasses
m magnificence the most beautiful sights I ha\-e ever seen.
Kaples and Constantinople, the two most celebrated bays,
do not present to the eye a more imposing, more dazzling
spectacle, than the Bay of San Francisco, but the city itself
does not answer from the port to the idea which one has
formed of it. We see only sand-hills with scattered houses
of mean appearance. The port is animated, a forest of
masts and of flags. Clouds of smoke which are es(!aping
fromtheferry-boats,with which the bay is covered, and which
are ploughing their way, in every sense, give life to the
picture. The wharf is covered with an eager crowd. We
are approaching slowly. Confusion reigns everywhere,
particularly on board. The young female foreigner profits
by the absence of her Imsband, engaged in hunting for his
trunks, to go on deck to make a passenger explain the beau-
ties of the landscape to her. The portei-s have already in-
' The name of Aleatraz— in Spanish, sea-bird— comes undoubtedly
from tliB imnifinse number oi" these birds whicli inhabit it, and whose
eggs, r. few years ago, when fowls were scarce in California, furnished a
cousiderablu branch of commerce.
^
3G4
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
vu.lo<l m an.l soi/..'<l ui-on our trnnk«. ll>e cai.tain on the
v,a(l.lk'-l)ox is "ivin.^ "..is orders. In pro]K.rtum Jis we ap-
nnu'li shore we afstinun.ish the erowd whuh is ^.nuf
toward our laudiu- l-luee. Frie.i.ls arc ree.-gni/.u.g eaeh
Sher. "Hollo, here is Jack! how do 3;ou do r etc. etc
Everyhody spoks at once. The horses m the wag-ous get
frio-hteued and kick up their heels. The enguie roars; the
drfvers cry out. Conversations are taking phu-ehet ween
tl ,)se on the shore an.l those on board. Handkerchiets
are in reouisitiou. The women are crying for .)oy, and tlie
She show their noses energetically. .All the passengers
re-ard each other as if they were unite, in the closest
frfendshii. The judge himself has a less disagreeahle air !
the young foreigner i^s in the arms of her husban.l, and she
does\iotappear^to find her companion very jli^".^!-;?,^'^; ; ^•
There is a great commotion, " a man overboard I he has
fillen between the wharf and the vessel, and has disappearea.
An4t of the crowd. They fish h m out. He is a
.vagoner ; he has escaped safely with only a cold "^th
Some exchange news, others recognize each othei-. How
are you at honie'r' Home, that magic word which rnakes
the heart of the most doubting beat. Laugh at it it you
will! Call it a weak prejudice Leave ycmr home
Travel, throw yourself into the whirlpool ot he world
s nnder by throwing to the four wuids, the illusions of
yo^h^art,^ts tendernesses, its raptures, until exhausted
by the abu^e or bruises of life it dries up and, insensib e,
henceforth is associated with your being, only by the mate-
r\n\ functions it is called upon to fill in tlie animal economy.
1)0 you say it is dead? Love, ambition, devotion, the
follies of youth, lost illusions I dead, do you say ? lleason
bis taken its place. Return, again to your home there
w ere your first loves blossomed, where your earliest drenm
were ivalized. Behold once m.u-e the place where you
first lisped in life, spelled love; and this atrophied heart,
which you thought was dead, will awaken as trom a long
lethar-y to salut'e, with all the ardour of its first emotions,
as the nightingale sings in the laorning the aurora o spring,
?he memory of this aurora of life-" lilessed home 1
Foi mvsilf this spectacle saddens me. ^o -- «'^--ai^
me, and those I love I have lett very far behind me. ihe
Tlie captain on the
ro]K)rtion ns we ap-
,'(l wliuli irt jjjoing
c rt'ci'gni/.ing each
you doT' etc. etc.
i in the \vag<)ns get
ic enghie roars; the
king "phu-e hetweeii
I'd. irandkerchiefs
•ing for joy, and the
All the passengers
iiited in the closest
ess disagreeahle air!
cr hushand, and she
very disagreeahle.
overhoardl" he has
and has disai)peare(h
him out. He is a
•nly a cold hath,
e each other. " How
c word which makes
Laugh at it if you
Leave your home;
Ipool of the world;
hids, the illusions of
ires, until exhausted
es up and, insensihle,
ng, only hy the mate-
tlie animal economy,
hition, devotion, the
lo you say ? Eeasou
to your home, there
e your earliest drenms
the place where you
this atrophied heart,
vaken as from a long
r of its first emotions,
g the aurora of si)ring,
Blessed home 1"
me. Xo one awaits
' far hehind me. The
CROWDS HAVE ONLY IXSTIXCT.
305
Reverend Mr. Thomas, one of the passengers, is standing
alongside of me. " Is Gottschalk on hoard 'f" criis a voice
from the crowd. "Here he is," replies the Keverend Mr.
Thomas, pointing me out to the crowd, I siihmit to this
exhihition with regret. My looks, considerahly deterio-
rated hy sea-sickness, present the most wretched appearance,
and otter nothing hut what is disappointing ti> those who
always associate the idea of u celehrity of any kind with a
certain i>hysical majesty. Of over one hundred persons who
know my name without ever having seen me, I have in-
variahly read from their looks that they were (piite disap-
pointed in tinding me thin and of ordinary height. The
frankest contented themselves hy saying, "-Ah! 1 thought
that you were taller." The ancients who, without uiider-
standijig anatomy, made such irreproachahle statues,
oheyed instinctively a natural law when they gave so little
ex[>ression to their physiognomy. Form always seduces the
masses, and the people in their youth hecome enraptured
with the form to the exclusion of the mimh
The elegant Alcibiades was evidently more sym])athetic
than the nat-nosed Socrates, and the advocates of I'hryne,
who took from ott" her her tunic, to cause her to be acrpii'tted
(elo([uent peroration which carried with it the austere
judges of the areopagus), were decidedly profound philoso-
j)hers. Sappho must have been pretty. Crowds have only
nistinct ; reason is awakened oidy hy rctiection, and the
crowd never reflects. . It was less hy genius that Peter the
Great controlled the rude Muscovites than hy his terrible
fits of passion, seconded by herculean strength and a gigan-
tic height. _ If on the twenty-fourth February, 1848, King
Louis J*hilippe had mounted a horse and had shown his fine
white head to the Parisian insurgents, the dead republic,
horn of Lamartine and Ledru Rollin, would have aborted.
If, afterwards, when Louis K'apoleon had been elected on
account of his name (it is not necessary to seek for an}' other
reason for his elevation, since he was unknown to France,
except by tAvo attempts which were looked u])on as foolish
and absurd, Ijecause they did not succeed), he had presented
himself to the Parisians on foot at the first review of the
trof)iis which took place on the tenth of Fehruavy, 1850,
the Xapoleonic dynasty would have been extinguished.
31*
if
366
yOTES OF A PIAMST.
ITh boay, too larire lor h\^ Mm htt o lop,. Ins toot
Uvuoi\2i his awkwanl gait, his ivtr.atu.g loroac-aa, and
i( noHO lov.l.l hanllN- have lbun.l t•a^•our ^vUl. t hcMm-
l^ive enthusiastic, and unro«o,'tn.,tr > ivncli poop c. Tt
V n 1 hav soenu.l to then, a KUTilogc to as.ocu.te his
m- o-likc hoacl with the proiilo, like an a"t.,iue ine.hl o
th^ m-eat Kniperor. Thus the President showed hin.selt on
orSaek a d^o^ the niost nu-ttlesonu; h<.rse of us stables.
I e is one of the best and most gn^eefnl riders m Kuropo.
hL fantastic unitbrnMU whi.-h ^f<^.V^f^,^ ''^U'^iZ
ant part concealed the height ot his hgnre. J he tioops
"vere ?ange<l on the Chanips1^:iysees as far as the Col'-nu. o
J, V that is to sav in a direction of three or l(mr nnles
aon<^ he boulevards. Tlie drums were beating the
n aivh, the bands were playing. "The rnnce is coniing,
said tic crowd, and all were awaiting inipatientb , an hen
nU at once the I'rince debouched at the head ot a stalt
d ttorhrw h gold and plumes. His horse excited bv the
S wd nd the music, rendered furious by the spur whiA
ds r do did not spare on him, a<lvanced, roaving.and inak-
i g immense boui!ds. The Prince, ca m and .^"^ilmg, he d
th^ reins with a iirm hand, and with his right took ott
s Int before the colours whic-h were lowered at his pas-
sage He msscd like a water-spout, and the crowd, woijder-
nl at his^^race and his audacity, burst into acchmiations.
ItHs thus his popularity began. A name which sounde
to the cars of the T^rench li^c an echo of one ot their old
llres and great experience m the art of horsemanship;
fid is' what ^his groat reign is founded upon It is true
tbS his sreat gein"s (^oocl or bad, I do not charge myself
S a;pi"ciatfng it) Ivs sinee been obliged to give a rea-
Ion to hose who applauded ^rithout knowing him.
A fewo-rasps of our travelling companion hands, and
the pomise (made in good faith, f^ut after some l^oui-s upon
land effaced from our memory) to see each other often, and
ve go on shore. Mr. Ba<lger, Chickerings "f "^ ; » .
nwMitinsr us and with the kindest zeal placed hmiself
e t* ely^t ur d sposal. Our apartments are reserved for us
at the 'Cosmopolitan Hotel.' We are gammg kno^vledge
?an( i confess hat I have a groat dea of repugnanee to ,
S the only scourge of San Francisco-the dust. Built
itiiiii fomiwitl, and
ivour Avitii the iin-
Krc'iK'ii people. Tt
;e to aswH'iiite tliis
1 anti<iue medal, of
showed himself on
horse of his stahles.
d riders in Europe,
ayed a very import-
figure. The troops
iir aathe Column of
three or four ndles
were heating the
> Prinee is coming,"
r impatiently, Avlien
the head of a staff
horse, excited hy tlie
1 hy the spur which
m1, rearing and mak-
Im and smiling, held
1 his right took otf
J lowered at his pas-
d the crowd, woiuler-
'st into acclamations,
name Avliich sounded
lo of one of their old
art of horsemanship;
ed upon. It is true
do not charge myself
ohliged to give a rea-
cnowing him.
mpanioTis' hands, and
ifter some hoprs upon
each other often, and
ckering's agent, was
zeal placed himselt
nts are reserved for us
•e gaining knowledge
I of repugnance for it),
L8C0 — the dust. Built
COSMO POL /TAX HOTEL.
3G7
upon sandy ground, and hills exitost'd to the wiml, which
hiows everyday at noon for six hours, the city is envel-
oja-d in clouds of dust, which rise in (hmhlc coliiimirt t»f ii
gnivisii colour ahove the <ity, and, at a distanci", recall the
smoke which covers like a dais the great Kiiglish metropolis.
The joiirncy from the wharf to tlu' hotel is made slowly—
the horses Y'dl with ditHcidty, and the wheels of our ('iir-
riage sink six inches dec'it into the saiidv dust. This thick
an(Timpul[)ahle dust, which is dried hy tue sun during eight
months of uhsolute drought, penetrates into the eyes, the
ears, and the mouth.
The 'Cosmopolitan llotel' is a magnificent srpiare edifice
of cut stone, the luxury of whose furniture is e(iual to that
of the first hotels in the United Stales. A si»leudid restau-
rant and a magnificent hilliard-room are connected with it.
The dining-room is ornamented with a profusion of mirrors,
which refiect the gilded eeilings, and the lighted caiulelal)ra
give to it the appearance of a Euroi)ean palace. The
ladies' parlour contains u Chickering piano, which, con-
trary to liotel pianos, is excellent, and in good tune. In a
jiortfolio of music, wliich I fi)Utid on the jtiano, I perceived
the '.\[ai(kni's I'rayer,' rt in (/uo'/ur, California !
The interior service of the hotel is admirahly perfi)rmed.
The waiters, in hlack dresses and white cravats, are i)olite
(they are for the most part French), and neat (the proprie-
tors of hotels in Western cities, B and S -, are re-
quested to meditate on this paragraph), and exercise kind-
ness in taking your or(h>rs without making you feel the
inferiority of "your position. The hill of fiire would have
made Brillat Savarin and Careme faint for joy. ^'egetal)les
in the greatest variety, fruits of all zones, tropical and tem-
perate, and the most artistic dishes appear in the numerous
nomenclature. But I am not easily taken by the allure-
ments of these deceptive baits, which tlie hotels of the West
have taught me to distrust. They are generally supernu-
meraries like those mute choristers which directors add to
their not too numerous choruses, who, opening their moutlis
without singing, do very well as a coup (Foif, hut have no-
thing to do with the music— these artistic dishes have no
other purpose but to increase the bill of fiire. If, some-
times, an inexperienced traveller falls in the snare, he either
808
yOTES OF A PIASIST.
r,.H-.vos tl.l. a.,.wor fnun tl.o wa,..-, '"n.oro s "" more of
it "and !k- tl.us lovscrvi^H one illusmn u.o.y ; o. olso tlic
IlHv.nix askcl for i. S.TV..I u,. to l>in., a.ul tU.n h. ^woar.,
Lut a littlo too late, that lie will lu'vci- ask lor it ii.i'-am.
Tl i' w....ia lu' tl.o time to make a i-lnloso,. n.-al .l.givs-
Hvou o.. tl..o art of c-o,.ki..ii, whieh i. ,uoro eh.sely c..n.u-e ch
l.n is thouul.t with intelleetual c-iv.hzation. Oi.o ol the
.n.l.oris.us oV UriUat Savarin was (who luai.y <'""'^^^';'^ -^
.. lei rated eook, hut wlm was „nly a very huM..nrahle judge,
V .. e eim-"n'^"i'''" ""'' 'U-li'-^'te wit i.ron.i.te.l o wnte a
eharndnl^ hook) " it is the heast that teeds, hut it is man
nnlv who knows how to eat. . . ,. i
In the I'uited States, cookery, like nmsuM>aintin-, and
many other hraiiehes of a high eivili/ation, has .';»-;tly :\«;'^
: . ? ealled into heing. I will rehite to you a little stoy
^vhieh will lead me hy u hy-path to the ^' M ;••;-;; --^ ^'^^
whole opinion upon our national eooker} and oui aits.
\t NlIJ timeof the first outhreak of Asiatie eholera I
was then-I was just ahout telling )'<'» ''I?, ^'f' ' .^^^'^^j^ jf,
cholera made its iirst appearance m 18o2, hy a tutling
a i^t 11 yot. would havi discovered I'ow many spring
t s I reckon. My fatlier, to avoid the scourge, huilt a
Hm-il cottage on the horder of the Gulf of Mexico in a
Xlod s ot called TVs Cliristian. Our onlv neighhours
were a few Indians, the only remains of a tribe formerly
niassaered hy tlie S.anianls, and whose hones were covered
hv a t^^^l mound in the clearings of the wood behind our
'^We^lladT piano, and it was tbere, alone, that I began
mv attc^mpts upon the instrument which, at a a er peiiod,
wL to attract'to me so many admir<n. and ^etnictors to
give me so many joys, and t(5 render Mr. D of IJo.ton
^"S;rS^:^ing when I was playing ' ITail Columbia' a
lai!,e Indian sfopped at the door and -ajch^l iih|u^. n.;ly
mf hands nmning over the keyboard. M> fata u ai
though a man of great intelligence, he w^s not ^it ;mt ta
weakness in whicli all fathers participate who think thur
cl i dren phaMiixes) said to the Indian, "You see what this
H e pde-face can do." The vanity of the «»vage w^^so
much the more wounded as he could not deny that the
THE IXDIAX OF PASS Cl/RIST/AX.
SCO
Tlioro is no more of
1 more; oi' else the
and tlu'U he swears,
asU r(ir it aji-aiii.
thilosophical tliures-
ire closely coiineeted
izatioii. One of the
many think was a
ry hononrahle jndge,
[irompted to write ii
: feeds, but it is inau
iniisie, imintint!;, and
ation, 1ms hardly yet
to you a little story
the expression of my
ery and <Hir arts,
of Asiatic cliolera, I
DU my at;c ; since the
1 18:]2, hy a tritiing
id how nuiny spring
the scoxu-ge, built a
Gulf of Mexico, in a
Our only neighbours
i of a tribe formerly
nc bones were covered
the wood behind our
?, alone, that I began
lich, at a later period,
•ers and detractors, to
j^j^^r. ]) of lioston
g 'ITail Columbia' a
\vatched inquisitively
r>ard. My father (al-
was not without that
ipate, who think their
,n, " You sec what this
,' of the savage was so
aid not deny that the
child did what neither he nor liis had cvi'r doni". lb' came
in and attentively examined the box from wlience the
strange soinids proceeded. Tea was ready. We passed
into the next room without thinking of the Indian. I
al(>ne secretly observed him. His great size and hoarse
\()ice inspired me with childish fear. I saw liim, after
satisfying himself that he was not observed, slowly ap-
l>roacli the piano; he looked attentively at the keyboard,
then carelessly, and as if by accident, he let his hand fall
u[)on a key which returned a soimd. Scarcely had he
heard it, when his countenance, which had remained
morose, brightened, he sat down at the piano, and with all
the force of his arms lie began to beat tlie kevs, calling
out triumphantlv to my father, "You see, 1 never trieii
before, and 1 make more noise than he."
Do you understand my eomjiarison? "Xol" Very
well, then. Go to B , an.l when you shall be told
wliat some one told me — "Mrs. is tlie best singer
here, bet-aiise you can hear her a mile off"— rec-all'^'to
yourself the Indian of ]»ass Christian. "This gallery of
]iaintings is the largest which we have in America." The
Indian of Ta-ss Christian. "JNfr. Such-an-one is an excellent
judge of nmsie; he has sjjent six months in Kuro]ie."
Again, my Indian. "Our hotel is as good as the 'Fifth
Avcime' or the 'Contuiental ;' look at the nund)c>r of dishes
on the bill of fare." The Indian, always the Indian.
To sing you require lungs, but it also re(iuires other
things; an ox can he heard a mile ott". A gallery of
paintings, if it possessed two hundred million daubs, would
not 1)0 worth one miniature of Tsabey, or one of Aleisson-
nier's interiors. Mr. Sueh-an-one, instead of six months,
might have remained six yi'ars in iMirojic, and come back
as big a blockhead as before. Your hotel might have as
many dishes on its bill of fare as the Queen of Spain has
names (I think she has one hundred and thirty -two); if they
are bad your cooking makes it like a cheap eating-house.
But the food of the (.'osmojiolitan Hotel is excellent, or
at least the dishes here are eatable. The town, when vou arc
in the middle of Montgomery Sti-eet (the principal" Street
in San Francisco), looks like the beautiful ].ortions of
Chicago ; the stores are large and luxurious. Built upon
-I
l
370
sotj:s of a riAMsr.
., nun.la-r of hU'vu hills tlic streets rise un.l .Icsc-ciul ; tl.cy
h " v^^Ucl n.a^- ottlK..u l.wt nuul. n.nuuns o bo clou.
I Irivc SITU ow SI M.t wIkmv tlu' .irrouM.l is so sUrp that .v-u
L c o ^o ..;. hv'stc.ps, th. ro,.f ..f tho 1..WW- hoMs. <-o..m,:4
the il-vcl of tho st.i.s of tho one whirh i.mr.l.s ,t
i,,rt lu'h."- <loiie aftcT the housi-s are t)Uilt tlu} n.iM
; . ,.. tlu'in at th. bottom. Thc-y prop thoni t.p an.l
;;;,U;riowcr storU-s to tho..., so that what wa. o,u-e the
Ln-omul floor brcoiiK's tho itarrot. . .,„..,.
^ It s i.upossiblo on soc.u.ir San Francis.o o una-u.o la
tho (bite of its foundation pu's no turtluT bark than
tnt; voars ago, and tlmt it i;a. b... l'-;- ^'-^ ^ho
or thnv tinu.s. 1 have been nhown tbop ^.v ]^ '^, !^
hcich was. It is now nearly a mile iron. it. ihc> lia\t
I '; n I h U land from the sea by throwing into i the
f.nd ear ed from the hills whilst they were levelling.
S' Fn. i.eo nnmbers three theatres, two hirge cnee
i;iss-veralsniall.>ues,an.lanii.iii.iteiuiinbero salo.M^
±C.n s ;uid a Chinese theatre. .Maguire's Op..jt lb>u^
^ . ..nenllv oeeupicd by a dramatie eonipany. >lagimes
t^u e. ; )f Musie is a <-harming hall, whieh holds rom
M en to ei.rhteen h.mdre.l ,.ersons easi v, and inwhuh
the T a an opera under the direetion ot Magnire is ...
irfm- n- be.-e. The ]Met.-op<.litan Theatre ib a little
L or t .an tl e Academy of Musie, but less elegant in_ its
Si cil^e^Irations. vL.^V. '}f'''^'^'^'^i:''^'%
there in opposition to that ot Magiure «. Ibe 'y''%ll
■ Ma mire is e >nsta..tly found throughout all Cal.tornia. 1 he
one" 1 It bears it was, some say, a spo.-tmg cha.-acter, a
"xe^^ I e k..^^^^ fo.-tuni,,nnd,.at the ^an.e _timo
.'s built almost all the thciti-os of the interior an.l ot Sa.
i^^nc o He is very intellige.it, very enterprising, and
mmiderbv himself alone ^br almost all the amnseme..ts
S^ c^oSl^iru cities of the Paeiiic. I have tcMiud inn
voi-v kind and very just in his t.-a.isactio..s. Iheie is,
he shle^ tWs moiae.it at San Fra.u-iseo a circus c.nnpa.iy
to w Sl^^^^^^^^^^^ the hermaphrclite belongs.^ I reinember
hJ^emiiit produced by the ^ITermoso Seii.^i a /oyan
..t Havana when cverv voung pei-son was to..ll^hl.^ in-
teritei in the solution of the mystery eoncerntng her sex.
^f^^th■J:T^' of .sa\ /v.'.i.vf />'(>.
871
iintl (It'scoiKl ; thoy
villains to Ih) <lt>tit'.
s sti stocp tliiit you
)\viT hoiisi' roiiiinii!;
whicli itri'ci'dts it,
•lliiiir tor tlio 1110.4
; hiiilt, tlu'y liavi'
j.rop (lu'iii up null
vluit was oiu'L' tlie
«'0 to iuiat!;iuo that
furtlu'i- liack tlian
1 hunioil tlowu two
he placv wIkto the
•oni it. Thoy liave
rowiiiir into it the
hey were levelliuu;.
», two large eouecTt
uiiihei- of saloons for
ruire's Opera House
)Uip;iuy. Maguire's
, whieh holds from
isily, and in whieh
(.f 'Maguirc is n >w
Theati-e is a little
it less elegant in its
Company is playing
ire's. The name of
t all California. The
porthig character, a
,, at the same time,
i Ulterior and of San
•ry enter] irising, and
all the amusements
I have found him
isactions. There is,
SCO a eireua company
Ljlongs. I rememher
loso Senorita, Zoyara'
ion was fo(.lishly in-
{ concerning her sex.
1 am told that Mile Zoyara is married, and that she is the
hi'st hu>liaiid in llie uorltl and the most cNtcilcnt of
tiitlicrs. 1 suppose from this that the proldfin is solved.
The cafes ami l)illianl-saloons of San Francisco are mag-
nificent, hanilsdiiicr even than tliosi« (if Xcw Vnrk. The
' l>anl< Kxchaiige' is liie most aristocratic of the latter, and
at its har the great merchants every day lliid an c.\([nisite
collation. ( 'liampagne is constantly driiiiU licri' tliroiighout
the whole day. it is the l»ase of all the drinks, such as
li'moiiade, cocktails, smashes, cohhiers. As to \\iv Cali-
fornia wine, I have as yet only seen one lutttle of it, and I
do not helieve that a glass a day is drunk of it in all the
cafes (if San Francisco. I made this remark to a Calil'or-
nian, who laughingly answi'i-cd me: "We lei've the car<j
of it to you Kasti'rii people." 1 know too little of li(|Uors
to decide whether he wished *•> say something not at all
tlattering to our taste in matters of wine.
The markets of Sau Francisco are worthy of heing seen.
They are rtoori'd,and ol' scrupulous neatness, "^i'liis comitry
lias all the hest things of the world in profusion. Fruits
and vegetahles of every zone and every climate alioiind
here. Salmon (I have seen .some which were two feet in
circumrerence) cost two hits (twenty-tive cents) a pound.
They are so pleiitit'ul, that there is a story, true or false,
wl'.ii-li says that the Irish servants stipulate that it shall
not he given them to eat more than twice a week. Straw-
herries ripen tlix; whole year. The appies of Oregon are
excellent. The oranges of Lower California are in ahuud-
ance. The olives are as large and good as those of Anda-
lusia, and will hecome, when the mining fever ahates and
industry develops the resources of the country, an important
hranch of industrial production. Almonds, cherries (aii<l
what cherries'.), peaches, grapes, ajtricots, artichokes, cauli-
flowers, heets (the poorest fire three times larger than those
of the East, aial 1 have seen some that weighed twenty-
five pounds) ; in one word, all the richness of the vegetal)le
kingdom has hcen accumulated here hy Providence on this
land of jiromise, whose climate, a perjietual temperature of
spring, would he the finest in the Avorld, wt'i-e it not for the
cursed wind which comes up every day from noon until
six o'clock and whirls the sandy dust in every direction.
872
snrr.s or A i'iam^t.
. ; all a V tWu.Hl i.. Calavon.s County, tlu" water ot
I- to tlu. .oast ,..vs...ts la.-, olniunnou. .pot.,
.i.tl r to in.li.m. tlmNlu.v nn.st IkmWs o^j^
1 . inti'i-ior of tlu' hill.. >^">'u- have .oiunun.r.l. it i> .ai 1,
.1 "' 1 . in n>any pla.-.s, an.l tl.o o, h-v..- P-'-;;'-; '
Li- as n.any vi.-tin. an t. ^'I'l^"; -j^- ;''*,, .^ I ! ^
M-ic.tin,Hr.nn.n.ayHav o...
vUn I a.l.hvssc..l the Hanu; nnosti.a. ^;^^l^-V^X: i^
;ls^.;:T;;;;;:i'i:i;^.ru;';.-;;:;i.-;^^
;;;; : m.^ at ^^>ot^ 1-1.0 ;^.;ak.), tl.. .lia,.tc.r o.- ncvor.
^ hi ' n! !l.i.-i... There a.v, ve.-l.a,.s th.vo thousm.
K in C'alifoi-nia, and thc^re are ha.-.Uy one-halt lo/ei.
that reLmla,lv u.ake .livhlen.l., and, ncverthelens, all a.-e
"The'l.ad;rSLf Calif^>rnia are rnarvollouB h,>t it
lu, n. mai u j^tore.t, which is one and a halt
;: ^^c^ a non^l o.; a^irit n.ortga^e with ,ood sig..at^-c;s.
1:;.,;:; otherwise he explained ^>-;f ^-^;^.,r ,^ ' 1 1
uvn to three per cent, a month. Uijatal laii., noiwui
Tt u..lin.^ ' in n.ense reso.^rces which tl.e count.-y lavsents
it is tiro oil which wonld hd.ricate a,.d put n. motion all
+.,,> -ivlii'cU of th»> freat machn.e. , . , t • i
T K e r^l es^^ the 'Cosmopolitan' (whica. I eons.der
tlu e ) tlu-ee 0^1 er very good hotels. The extra or. Unary
t- nlmo^ of the city luhin the last ten yc.rs has ,.a -
nllv caused a great increase m the value .u la...l. Chua^^o
. no vais a.ro seemed to have attahied during the si)e.-u-
SlveW^umlthe maximn.n ; hut nothing approach-
[Ill Fmiit'is<M) nuirlit
irt wiii'l. wliifli fiilH
V iiliiiiM ami Imslu'H
and lui'n'ury Hcnii
•d t'ViTV tliiy. \'*'i'V
iity. 'Vlif wiitiT of
IJl- (llcilliillOllrf f<|H>tr<,
t Ik' (Ifpols of till ill
)iiiiiu'ni'i'<I.U ij^ f'iii'K
.il li'vcr ipromi'-*'-* <"
isU'i- the jri'M t'cvi'i'.
[u\\'{ ir the iniiu's
I -will Hiiy iiotliiiit;
ilit'oriiiiiii t'(il<l iin' to
. ''Till' l«Xlii'llscs of
ilicult to cut in tlio
wiisli tlio jroltl, Olio
: miU's to tiii»l it, iind
'nsi(U's, tlio »liK',iiii'g«
)](>yiiK'iit of t'lioriiioiirt
kli'iiiiiU jiiv (U'iir; 1h'-
tilt! c-liniitcT of iH'Vor-
lui.s, tlim' tliousimd
liirdly oiic-liiilf do/A-n
, iievortlit'k'Hs, all are
xro tnarvoUons, l)nt it
liicli is one and u lialf
with good signatures,
ouov rates as high ns
L^apUal fails, iiotwith-
1 the country ]iresentrt;
and put in motion all
tan' (whii^h I consider
Is. The extraordinary
last tea years has uatu-
•alueof"laiid. Chicago
lined <luniig the specu-
hut nothiiig approach-
cosanrrs at >.i.v tn.\.\ri>r»).
878
iii^' to the followiiii; liirures: Admiral !>iipoiit gained last
Vt'iir a lawsuit hy which wi'i-e aeeonled to him ihiity-tiyf
thousand iloUars tor a picei' <if gruimd for whirh he had paid
liftci'ii dollars. Mr. Li«U piiirhaMil for lifty dollars, from
a man who had paid live dollars for it, the uroiind on
which he hiiill tlii' ' 1/ick lloiisi-.' This ground is to-day
worth, without the hotel, live hiiudri'd thousand dollars.
Mrssrs. hadirt'i" and l/mderlierg'r, wholesale ready-mado
clothing nu'reiiaiits, whose large ston- is situated in the
hiisiness strt'ct of San Kraiiciseo, have in the first story a
di'pot for I'hickering's pianos, of which they sell a great
numher. Js it an indication that music is much ciillisaled'^
I would not daro to assi-rt it. Music, of all the arts, is th«
last to ini[ilant itself, and only takes deep root in oM ci\ ili/ed
societies. It is too ahstract, it apiici'tains too much to the
domain of thought and fei-liiig to tlourish, where tl ,■ physi-
eal forci's art' in full activity. It is an art for idlers and
dreamers. Neither the oiieiior the other is found among
men who have to hiiilil houses to shelter theiusehes, and
wh(» have to seek their foo(l. The jilastic arts are the tjrst,
after spok.'ii poetry, which suggest themselves to the miiaU
of primitive peoples.
t'oiicerts at San Francisco have never succeeded. Olo
r.iill and Strakosch left it in confusion. J'aul .Iiilieii, who
lias just passed five months here, has not carried otl" one
thousand dollars net. On the other side, L regret to say it,
the circus tlourishes, and Miss Adah Menken, after having
driven all the [icoiile rvi\/:\\ has carried away with her fifty
thousand dollars. You will easily understand that tho
chaste muse, sister of Apollo, can only go astray hetbro a
puhlic which is enthusiastic at the mulities of Mazeppa.
There are numerous Chinese here. It is supposed that
there are more than seventy thousand in California, and at
least five thousand in San Francisco. The great majority of
them are laundryincn. Stockton Street is lineil with Chi-
nese shops; they sell drugs, seeds, make shoes, etc. Some
of them are very rich, very '.■itelligent, and speak English
readily. I was introduced to Sam Kee, a (Irugtfist I think,
who, seated hehind his desk, was writing his letters — 1> shij)
leaves for China to-morrow.
The neatness with which ho wrote from right to left his
82
374
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
onvx Mv -y-' ' 'l"ubtk'ss to give Iniii a high ic a a ot tlu.
.ti or aV ic-Ti he intro(Uu-ed to him, rei-^'^^t-^ to hiui re-
oue tv "Mr. Gottsehalk, the great, great vnunst, hut
!\v n.' thatthe(V.k.stial oi.ene(l his eyes without u.uk i-
ita, I 1 ' ti.e wonl piauist, he a.kle.1 to it a vai.to.uime Avth
his fingor^^ wliieh'he Bhook rapidly in tlie air repeating
"^m lS'howe.1 very protbuudly, reganliug nie ^vith a
rest e s look. It is plaiu that the pantouimie with the hi -
Tis i 1 not inspire him with eoniideiiee. He aeeompanie^l
£e a far as tlu- door, all the time bowing to mc proiound y,
a muS^ft>r the r"n>o- <>f -mipliim^nting me as tn^
k'st I mi-ht use the uu-ihty ot my lingers to his detiimu i.
I ;l.ii;;d'iu>t he astonished if he ha, ^-^^^f^lS^
ing to his writing to his eorrespondents, that 1 ■ '' '^ "^^
received the visit of a eelebrated robber ot the Lnited
^^One of these rieh Chinese made his daughter eome over
She v. ^ so beautiful that several Yankees, Europeans, and
CVles' ds fell ill love with her. The miserable lather in Ins
dkSe s did not know what to do to seerete l^^/^^^J^^e Iron
'he indisereet regards of the enthusiasts. He elosed Ins
; om. o • 1 visitm-s. But the type of Kosina in the ' Bar-
Mer de Seville' is the eternal type of amorous dainse
An admirer had B(mie ability in his plan, and one night t e
house was lK.siecre<l for the purpose oi earrymg ott tlie
oautv im her iealous Hither. The old Chinese and his
sci^aits iZ Se I themselves, and defendc.l themselves so
we 1 at hev put the besiegei-s to flight. The event mad.
Bueh an inJossion on tlie. honest merchant that he
fnthted as dp, and lorty-eight Ixours after thc/^^^" |^"]
Sdne e et out kgai.i, sighing for the banks ot Ije ye ow
HveJ-where probablv she has married a tat big-bellie
malidaHn to whom she does noteare to speak about her
oilvoii+iirp with the voung barbarian. . • ^ /-
n!ub? if the old Chhiese has a very flattermg idea of
our eivilizatiou.
THE MORMON MISSION AllW
375
)k-koopor pale witli
I 11 \\'\)x\\ i'lwv "t" the
'jn'iitod to hiiii^ iVo-
ifivat |iiiuiist," but
'vos without uiulor-
t^l |iiuitoiuiinu Avitli
I tlie air repeating
<ranliiig nic with a
oiuiiuo with the tin-
i. lie aceouii)anie(l
g to mc proibuiKlly,
ing me, as tVoiii tear
ers U> hir^ detriment,
lentioned, on retnrn-
ts, that he had juj^t
bher of the United
daughter come over.
icee!-'', Euroi)eans, and
liserable father in his
i-ete his treasure from
ists. He closed his
Kosina in the ' Bar-
if amorous damsels,
an, and one night the
of carrying off the
old Chinese and his
'fended themselves so
ht. The event made
t merchant that he
rs after the beautiful
^ ])anks of the yellow
•ied a fat, big-bellied
e to speak about her
very flattering idea of
CHAPTER XXIV.
I WAS introduced to Mr. de Cazotte, French Consul. TTo
is the grandson of Cazotte of the revolution, op.e of the
famous Ilhnninati.
In a narrow street near Stockton Street we see two or three
mifortunatecreaturesooncealingtheirmisery under ]iaiiit and
tinsel, and smiling at us with that horrible stereotyped smile
which ballet ilancers and courtesans possess the secret of.
Two days after my arrival a visiting card was brought
me. " The gentleman is waiting for you down stsiirs,"
said the servant. I meet again here a young Frencliman,
one of my friends, Parisian in mind and heart.
I havebeen introduced to one of the Cro'suses of San Fran-
cisco, wliose fortune, it is said, is incalc;ulable. He came
here as a Mormon missionary, but (piickly iicrceivod that
there was more gold to be gained than jirosclytes to be
made. The women were then in such an inlinitesinial i)ro-
jiortion to the male ])opulation that it would have been
ridiculous to preach polygamy to those who were forced to
be celil)ates.
He obtained a round sum which he made use of; money
brought then ten or fifteen jier cent., and in a few yciirs ho
liad made many millions. He was in his ofHce when I was
admitted into 'his presence, and was amorously caressing
the big too of his riffht foot with the index flnircr and
thuml) of his left hsind. " Gottschalk, Gottschalk !" he
said to me, without letting go his big toe, " I know tliat
name. "Ain't you one of tliem opera singers ? What do
you sing, bass or tenor?"
He has, I am. assured, renounced tlie doctrine of polj-gani}'-,
but he drinks a great deal,
Frc'ich commerce is renresented here by man}' consider-
able houses. Contrary to ti at of other countries where tho
French play in the moTicy market only a secondary part,
they rank here amoi.g t no tirst.
376
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
^vonuM>, but they uro ruro '^^}''}i:'^^^^^ , ^l.c ' bulletin,'
The "owsrai^r. the 'Aha taW<^^^ ^^^
cte are "">'f " ^^. * ' f,.,^ter onu-t thev have too tVeciuently
i.()htK'al matters m niattci oi i luin^tvels, to have
encouragea the ^•"•^■"^S^^f ^f \' ^' .^ an r^^ the
true taste, and r^^'t^^^^^n' > VJ^^se 'C^^^^ W^^^ ^"^5^0.1
attention an.l respect wueh they '^^-^''J- j^^,^^,i .^^^i,,
all the newspaper e.htors ^J .f/W ^f , \,,,o c.f
,avu>g P-'\f--/^,C?:^r^S£n\nvUoa, two only
^"' '' niir thev hek -^^ -"^« l^l-'- From the
came, and tney ueiuuj^v. „,,„,,v('nse anv card, or any-
othei-8 we have "V^'^'^rrr^T, ^Vthrfei notu.n of the
thing else iy'^^^'^^yilK: J f ^^t n Jt^lat^lr n.y first
elementary laws ot P^'^^t^^^f ' /J.,!!":,,,, ^otiees, but all I
concert they all. gave '"f;;-'^^. ^ V "^^ " Ac,n'stonu'<l to
owe them i. limited to t^^j' " ;^* .^^, heir in.liiterenco bo
the courtesy ot ti»o i'^^^^*' I/'f '^'^ V^^ ^^^,, have visited
much the more, as the number « P^'^^^^^^ ^;i . ,,^,,,.,, to he
San Francisco, gives them less f.: 'J-^^' -'V.oyara aiul of
blase. There is yet too ^^^^"^^^^Z ^^ ^ ^i^stUy cn.nclude from
Menken in the ^^'f ?'^'' "'vo^incou h «a l\-ancisco is one
this that the people l^'^^P^^^X \vorld, and intinitely
of the most polished ^^ .\^^ "^ • \^Jv>^es . But a concert
,noreivtinedtlummanyoHhoem^^^^^^^^^^
for them is a concert, that \^,J^*; ^Vbitions,and from their
and less entertaining t^':!';,*!*^"^^^^^^ are w.)rth
1"'"^' ^! ^"\!S:"t^ ^re^ic"^ theiu, and they do
more than a banana , t^;^';^;,^,^^^^^,^, Menken and comj.any
not cost so muc-h. As toi •-»\'' ' ''' ' -^ ^t jioro. Lilly
seem to be the only ""f,^^'', ^ ^ ^ni hero inettaceable
Bnrk, tlie -- -V.S.^.S;Hn^;^ presence the voul
St ir depal^ i::^ -usil in the budget of amusements
'"' SgS^'ri:Pa has commenced the season with ^Trova-
FIRST llEITdiSESTAriON OF " /.7.\V,1A/."
377
! ITnitcd Ftates, the
il ninii1>or of proUy
i(. Tnith iorcrsnio
iu'es atul (Iresscrt is
ttitcs. 1 luivo, it is
\<r cjirls and luan'iotl
Ilia,' tlic 'bulletin,'
ell edited as regards
have too lVe([uently
le luiiistvels, to have
und artists with the
c. We have invited
r at our hotel, alter
ieh not one of theiu
en invited, two only
c i)ai)or. From the
use, any card, or any-
e least notion of the
•ue that after my lirst
mir notiees, hut all I
' so. Aecustonied to
, their inditforenee so
iiistsAvho have visited
than the others to he
dly, of Zoyara aiitl of
diastilyeoneludefroni
San Franeisoo is one
world, and intinitely
i VVest. But a eoneert
an amusement, dearer
jitions, and from their
en of ai'ples are worth
\ of them, and they do
Menken and eomjiany
excite it here. i>illy
him here inethieeable
II my presence the void
huiiget of amusements
he season with 'Trova-
tore.' Putting aside the infatuation of small towns for
everything that is new, the troupe is perfvetly justilied hy
its success.
We have announced a series of six concerts. The two
operas, which are in full activity, will he a ru(le competi-
tion for us. In any other cotmtry we should think '\little of
it, hut here, where, since Mine. 15 — — (and what an ojiera),
there has been no Italian eompany, thi'y have all tlie at-
traction of novelty. Iwas present at the representation of
' Krnani' at the Metrojiolitan. Ahirelli, the excellent bari-
tone, played 'Charles \'.' Ue has still his tine voice, his
intelligent conception of the part, and his just intonation.
This iast (piality will sufHce, to my notion, to secure him
public admiration, — as to sing false has to-<lay become a
condition .sine (/iia. van of singers. The choruses, composed
in great part ot'(iermans and Italians, have l)eeu ([uite sat-
isfactory, as well as the orchestra. I am not among those
who admire Verdi to excess. Some of his operas, 'Attila'
for instance, seem to me in some }>arts unworthy of a great
musician, but on listening to the quintette in the second
act, the duo of the basso", the trio tinale, and the tinale, I
cannot heli) recalling with hitterness the nnsldlled_ judg-
ment which till' whole European press, antl all the sinqile-
tons, who compose three-quarters of the public, gave twenty
yeare ago. I was present at the first representation of
' Ernani* at the Theatre des Italiai'^ at Paris. 1 was ii: the
box of Madame Mennechet de I'arival, a writer of merit,
an eminent pianist, and the Egeria of Ambroise Thomas.
"What detestable i)latitudesl What vulgaritvl What
noise I Wliat vacuity 1" re-echoed around me. Xot one of
the beauties of the opera was noticed, and all the little
hallad eonqtosers fell upon him and tore him to pieces. I
myself, who, thank God, have never ftumd enough gall in
my nature to make me rejoice at the fall of a confrere, I,
myself, in good faith, found everything detestable. No-
thing easier, I said to myself, than to mi*ke such operas.
It litis hai>pened to me siiiu-e to try to make an opera, and
the day in which I sketched out a had duo, I all at (Mice
perceived that Verdi possessed genius. I recommend to
pianisliculcs, who deny talents to "their confreres, who dare
a2*
878
NOTES OF A PIAXIST.
to compose, this little exorcise, which cannot tixil of being
useful to their petty vanity.
Califoknia, 18(55.
I am wanting a pianist. I ha.l executed on fourtetm
pianos the March of Tannha.iser arranged by niysclt. its
success had l>een so j;reat tbat I lia.l to announce another
concert (M. fourteen piano> On the evo ot the concert one
of my pianists fell sick. What am I to do i I'nt ott the
conccn-f^ Is' ever! A warmed-up diin.er is never worth
anvthintj. In the matter of concerts you must never put
oif: The public is flighty, capricious, pitiless. Liarn to
seize the hour it is favonrable to you ; it you do not, it
escapes you without any reason.
Announce only thirteen pianos. Another error, stdl
more dangerous. The public wish to hear lourtccn pian.^
and if von Lnve it one less it wdl think itselt robbed it
demands fourteen pianos in full view on the I'lattorm.
Should you place somemamkms on it, it will be sati>iKa,
provided that it sees there the number ot i-ianos that were
announced. The ditHculty was becoming insurmountal.le.
San Francisco, although filled with all the _ corruption
and with all the plagues arising from civilization, <li^l i>ot
then possess but thirteen first-class pianoforte players. J he
proprietor of the hall, seeing my embarrassment, ottered to
speak to his son, an amateur pianist, he said, of the first
class, who played Thalberg, Liszt, and «-ttscha k w^iout
difiiculty, and for whom it would be only play to take the
part that was wanted for the March ot J;i''"!'«:^^^'»- „ ^J"
perience has for a long time taught me that it is well tor
an artist to beware of the. co-operation of amateui-s in
general, and especially of those who play everything at
first sight, and make havoc in playing the pieces of Liszt
and Thalberg. Ihit the father spoke of him with such
assurance that I accepted his son's assistance (C^od protect
vou, O artists! from the fathei-s of am.' teurs,_ from the s^ns
theiuselves, and from the fathers of female smgers !). J he
concert was to take place in the evening. I sug'^ested that
a rehearsal would be necessary. Ihe son, who m the
interval had been introduced to me, expressed surprise,
and said it was usdess. The part was very easy ; he played the
t.
cannot fail of being
California, 18fi5.
<ocnto(l on ibnrtoon
nged by myself. h»
to announce another
of the concert one
todo'i Put off the
mer is never Mortli
you must never put
, pitiless, iicarn to
u ; if you do not, it
Another error, still
hear fourteen jtianos,
nk itself robl)e(l. It
}\v on the platform.
:, it will be satisficil,
r of i-ianos that were
ninu; insurmountable.
1 all the corrui»tion
I civilization, did not
moforte players. The
arrassnient, otfered to
t, he said, of the first
d Gottschalk without
only play to take the
of Tannhauser. Kx-
me that it is well for
ation of amateiu-s in
play everything at
ins; the pieces of Liszt
ke of him with sucli
issistance (God protect
ni teurs, from the sons
female singers !). Tlie
ing. I suggested that
riie son, who in the
le, exjtressed surprise,
:ery easy ; he played the
THE AMATEUR OF SAX FliAXCISCO.
879
fantasies of Liszt. I replied that it was less for the ditH-
culty of execution than for playing together; and tiiat, if
lie wished, I would jilay with him to jioiiit out to him tiio
movements. lie then placed himself at the piano, and
like all amateurs, after having executed a noisy fiourisli,
attacked with the boldness of innocence tlie piece of Tann-
hauser. At the end of two l)ars, my mind was made up;
I knew what 1 bad to rel}' on, and 1 assure you that it was
liot pleasant. It is not that he played l)a<lly, if he played
at all. The most complaisant ear would liave hardly been
able to distinguish any shreds of Wagner's theme which
were tloating liero and there like waifs in the midst of an
ocean of false notes, in a deafening storm of continuous
pedal (the storm cannot be described), and ol' the com-
plete wreck of the measure and spirit of tlie author; it
was no longer to be thought of. My ]iosition became hor-
rible. To refuse his assistance — the assistance of the first
amateur in San Francisco! elegant and rich, who had
])robably caused to be circulated among all his friends and
all the good society of the city that he deigned to give me
the use of his talent! It was impossil)le! The rehearsal
was short, I did not even make a remark ; it would have
been of as much use as making an Adonis of ^p]sop. The
father, beaming with pride, was looking at me, and, wiping
his forehead, after the piece, said: "Ah ha! what did I tell
you !" The young man seemed convinced of his worth, and,
with the ease which amateurs only possess when the ]tul)li(' is
in (juestion, repeated to me many times, graciously smiling,
with a satisfied little air, " Oh, yes ! I think that that d(»es
very well! Besides, it is va\i/ r<is>/!" Wo ])arted. I
thought seriously of putting off the concert, under tlie
l)retence of indisposition, wlien my tuner, a man of re-
sources, said to me : " Sir, if this young man plays, trouble
is inevitable with the other pianos; it is absolutely neces-
sary to prevent his being heard, and the only way to do it
is this'' — and at the same moment he pushed a croclict in
the piano I designed for the amateur, a vertical i)iano, took
out the whole of the interior mechanism, and, looking
triumphantly at me, added : " The keyboard remains, but
I assure you that there will be no more false notes." The
mode was excellent.
380
NOTES OF A PfAMST.
The evening oiiiiie. The hall was full. My amaUMir, in
white cravat and evenini; dress, was showing hiinscU" in the
liall. His friends awaited the moment of his .'Utranee with
iniliiitienee. He reiinested me to give him a i^iano near the
footlights in full view (for it nuis't be stated that amateurs,
who siiould he less familiarized with the ]»nhlie, have an
imi)assil)ility and saii(j froid which we never aci^uire —
uitain innocence).
^ I placed his dumh jiiano in the middle of the stage, close
to tlie promi)tei'.
Uefore going on the stage, I nmde my thirteen acolytes
take notice, tluit, in order to produce the greatest effect, it
was indispensable not to make any i)reludes, that thus the
jtuhlie might be more surprised on hearing all at once the
fourteen pianos attack the flourish of trumpets with which
the ^hirch in Tannhauscr commences.
One, two, three— we begin. It goes on marvellously.
In tlie midst of the piece I looked at my amateur: he was
superb ; he was sweating great drojts ; he was throwing
his eyes carelessly on tiieauilience, and performed with
miraculous ease the passages apparently the most difficult.
His friends were in raptures. They applauded to excess,
^ome enthusiasts even cried out, " Hurrah for 1" (the
amateur's name). '• Encore 1" "Encore!!" We must re-
l»eat the i)iece. But at the moment of commencing the
amateur forgot my recommendation not to prelude, and
could not resist the tennitation to play a little chromatic
scale. I see him now ! The stupor whicli was printed on
liis countenance is inexpressible. He recfmimenced his
scale. Nothing. The piano was mute. For an instant
he had the idea that the ardour with which lie had played
had been fatal to the strings, hut, throwing a glance inside,
he saw them all right. AVithout doubt it Is the pedals,
and, after some shakes impressed on the pedals, he began
airain his little chromatic scale. Then, persuaded that the
pTano was just out of order, he strove to make me under-
stand that we could not begin again the March.
"Pst! pst! !" said he with a wiUl air, hut I had seen the
danger, and without loss of time, I had given the signal
and' the ^h^rch was reconmienced. ^ly young man, to save
appearances before the audience, made the pantomime of
1. My amatonr, in
ivinji; hiiiisc'U" in tho
if liirt .'ntrunce with
ini a ]iian() near tho
afcd that amateurs,
tho publii', have an
novor a('<iuii'o —
Ic of the stago, close
iiy thirtoon acolytes
he greatest ottect, it
lules, that thus the
ring all at once tho
•urnpets with which
.'8 on marvellously,
ly amateur : ho was
; ho was throwing
nd performed with
y tho most difficult,
ipplauded to excess.
rrah for 1" (the
e ! ! " We must ro-
of commencing the
not to prelude, and
Ely a little chromatic
hicli was printetl on
o recommenced his
te. For an instant
^■hich he had played
rving a glance inside,
ht it i!s the pedals,
the pedals, he began
, persuaded that the
i to make me under-
le March.
r, hut I had seen the
ad given the signal
i young man, to save
e the pantouume of
1
Tm: SECIIKT DISCLOSED.
381
the passages, hut his countenance, which T saw from helow,
was worth painting, it was a mixture of diseouragenient and
of s])ite. The fury with which he struck the poor instru-
ment, which could do nothing, was vt'ry funny.
"That was very well done, gentlemen," I siiid, on enter-
ing into .he artists' room, "Ijut the eil'ect was less than
the tirst time."
''The mischief!" said my amateur to me, "my jiiano
broke all at once."
The secret was kept a, long time by my tuner, but it
finally leaked out, or at least 1 had reason for sniiposing it
did from the furious glance that my unfortunate amateur
threw on me one day that I happened to salute him on
meeting him in the street.
Moral — beware of amateurs.
I have been to mass at the French church. The ])riest,
from Auvergne, gave us a sei-mon which would have
been oidy grotesque, if it had not been the height of
imjiropriety and absurdity in a temple consecrated to (Jod.
The evidently limited hitelligence of this unfortunate
priest, jdaced at the service of a nasal and monotonous
organ, like that of tlie child -eii who reiieat without any
inflexion of their voice and without punctuation lessons
which they do not understand — had suggested to him a
digression on the dogma of the Blessed N'irgin, i\ propos
of the month of Ahiry. After some commonplaces,
drawn from the children's catechism, tMs is nearly the
luminous theory which he expressed. Ho wore spectacles
and had a nervous trick, every time the flow of liis ideas
threatened to be exhausted (and this hapi)ened every two
or throe words), of carrying with a convulsive movement
his hand to his nose, to be certain that his spectacles were
firndy fixed, then coughed, and continued: —
" ^les chera freras. Elu Vierge il a ete achoinsio a parcc
qu'il une bonne fenime. Ac 'telle ou'alle a eleve k
I'enfant Jesus. Veres savez toxis combien les meres oixt
do mal pour elever leure enfants. C'est elle qu'a pris
soin du sien que elle a nourri. II lui doit tout k sa mere
et alle a i)ris sur lui le droit de lui demander ses favours.
Aussi a[»res il a toujoura fait tout pour lui etrtj agreable.
jl
882
NOTES OF A PUStST.
A.msi, nnios Chora fivn.s vouHtro lucll.'uro rooommcnda-
tioii ost do vous a(l<lri"ssor iV la \ um\'u Maru'.
Tht> iKToratioii of thu sermon irt too original tor mi- not
to favour you with it, , . • ^ ^^ / i: , ,.,.. il
"II V a pas heaiu-oui) do moi.dc loi A octto 6.u;liso, ma il
V a dos pamissos qui out phis do famillos (luo la paroisso
fie San Franoisco ot i-uis alios out lours oooupationsot i-ms
boauooup do oes famillos qui m ont sont obligeos do rosti-i
it, la maison i>our on prondro soin." .
This rigman^lo workod on my norvos. It is mnvorthv
of the Catholic roligion to i.ormit suoh indooonoios And
I admit that tho i'rotostants would havo toiind tault it
thov imdoi-stood Frcnoh. Fortunatoly the numhor ot
rovoronds who speak this language, which ho much in-
fidel literature has Hulliod, is in tho inverse ratio ot tliou
hatred for tho doctrines of free thought.
Virginia City, Territory of Nevada, June 4, ISOr).
We havo at last arrived. The dork, an. impudently
pompous genius, extended on his chair behind the .losk,
.is feet as high as his head, after havm- made us tool bv
liis iieromptoiy tone the incommensurable distance w-hicli
soiuratos iiooV travellei-s from a 'hotel clerk grants us
permissioi/ to install ourselves at the rate ot thirty-tiyo
dollars per day in a chamber six teet sfpiare. I timidly
ask if there is not a larger one, hut he answoi-s me an.n-ily,
"Nol" in such a way as to make me understand tliat i
must not abuse his patience, under pain of being driven
out of the little hole he has been wiUmg to give me.
F«)rtunatoly, to the hotel a restaurant is attached, kept l)y
a Frenchman, who with all the simplicity ot his nation
tells me his troubles— always the same-ot shares taken in
the mines which ought to pay immense dividends and
which ruin all who have them.
The town is ugly— built of wood on rough ground.
The streets are steep and irregular. The cates are nunior-
ous The music store is a slioemakors shop, two-tliinis
of which is tilled with boots and tho rest with drawers
and loose sheets of music, which would seem to l'i;ovc' tliat
tho population walks more over the rugged soil ot the
town than on the road florid with art. It is not truly to
VI/lGf.\fA CfTY.
888
llcnro rcoomnuMuliv
laru'."
ungiiial lor hk' not
\ octto 6u;liso, ma il
Ik'rt ([uo la jtarnisse
(H'cuiiatioiis, ct imirt
it obliget'ri <le ivstiT
cs. It is unwortliy
1 in(loceiu'it.'s. Aiitl
liavo tbuiul tinilt it"
•ly the number of
wlui'li HO nnu'h in-
nvorsc ratio of their
t.
f Nevada, June 4, 1865.
•rk, an, immulontly
lir Ix'liind the desk,
iiiiT made lis feel bv
•alilc distance wliieh
itvl clerk,' grants us
rate of tliirty-tlve
t square. I timidly
: answers me angrily,
le understand tliat I
|)ain of being driven
willing to give me.
is attached, kept by
plicity of his nation
L^ — of shares taken in
uonse dividends and
d on rough ground.
The cafes are nuiner-
er's shop, two-thirds
10 rest with drawers
Id seem to ])rove that
rugged soil of the
:t. tt" is not truly to
s|K'ak a town, it has rather the appearance of one of those
JMiropean liiirs, which once a 3'car attract lor two months
merchants and jturciiascrs from the four points of the
horizon. The dust blinds when it doi-s not choke you,
and vice versa, and botli at once. Shut up in the midst of
Hti'cp mountains, the sight perceives as far as it can extend
only the gray tints of tlu' ariil soil, or the sombre masses
of the sage, tlu! only vc<''';table that grows. Jt is meagre,
sad, mean, and monotoii .us. I have never really known
splein save in Virginia (Mty. Tt is the most inhospitable
and the saddest town that I have ever visited. J have
passed eleven days lierc, during which 1 have given three
concerts. I have not receive<l from the inhabitants one
invitation, not one visit, nor any mark of distinction. I
fortunately found here a family i'rom New Orleans, whom
the vicissitudes of fortune have ti'iiiporarily banished here,
and a young Louisianian, who, by their inten-st, sometimes
contributed to dissiitate the ennui of my isolation.
Sunday, sitting m my chamber, the window opening
on my rerrace, 1 was enjoying the only advantage wbieli
Virginia City possesses, a pure sky, \Vbiz, splash, whitf,
whew — good (Jod! AVhat <loes this mean? I was almost
inundated and upset by a column of water which continued
to invade my room. " That is nothing," said a servant to
me, " they are only the firemen who are exercising and
amusing themselves."
Every morning I go out with the firm intention of com-
forting my conseieiice by letting the truth be known, which,
like steam too long compressed, chokes me, that Virginia City
is the saildest, the most Avearisonie, the most inhospitable
jtlace on the globe; but the tiivt ])erson that I meet asks mo
the same (juestion which is jtut invariably to every stranjxer
■who arrives, by every iidiabitant of Virginia i'ity, who
speaks to him — " AVell, sir, hnr do yoii find '•>•)• pfucc f and
on the countenance of your interlocutor you read so legibly
that he expects you to find it with him tFie l yest, the 'most
beautiful, the richest, and most polished in this ])art of
the world, that you do not feel you have the courage to
destroy his illusions and the happiness they cause him.
You drive back the compressed va[iour of your discontent,
and answer him with a doubtful "hem!" which he natu-
1
884
yoTKS OF A riAMST.
rnllv trnnslat.s a. un^m.^rw- in xvlu.t !.;• tljink., an.l l.o
iid.U with mi nir of Haiisfu'd i.ntlL', " > «'n '"'t 'f '-^ • ,. .
„ol,<Mlv,ox.H.i.t tlH-.l.u-t..ran.l tlu- Lonismuuu.s,..! ^vl.o...
have al va<lv HiK.ki'n,i....uitv.l attiT nu-. lavintr asUfl 1. i
V an, atoi- a ci-l.t ..Vio-k i„ tho t.vonmjr, tlu- pompom
kiiuliifss to jrc't Honio from tho FiviM-h restaurant kivper in
tln' iii'i"'iil)ourlitK)(l. ,.,.,, 4 1
I lu.-in tosu.i.<..t tl.at those Frond. mh.U-ls so oorruptod,
nu.l An'I.oso literature is so inunoral {ruir \ o\Unvo nn.l
Kousseau), are less ignorant tluin some have ^'M'l'j "*•;'»
those Hmall virtues, suc-h as chanty, generosity, and knul-
June 0.
T h«ave for Pavton in the stage. The heat is exeessiyo
fortunately the .listanee is only six nnles '^^^'^^^^P^
Htron.' horses, in one hour we shall he there. I reckon
X^ut the driver. Ho passes thro.^h the I'nnnpal ^tiv t
of Vir-inia Citv, and takes up two other passenger., an erne
1 reo mitside and nine inside. The stage can only comtort-
ahly contai.1 eight. Wo stop he ore the l'"^;'!' ^ .' ^^ ^^
irives us a hasket of moat. "(4ood day, Jo, very ^^"ln»/^-
day; Avill you hand this hasket of meat to someone near o
B?il-er CityV" Hua! hi.t! w- ^^^ out ^U^^- .;:^<^; ^
wife wishes to go there also, have you any ; acc '■ A >
1 ce! hut, yesf there is." Slie gc^ts up. /Fho ^ ;?^^
nio, the dust Winds mo, I hogin to lose patience. " In or
"hen will you go?" "What, mister, are you in such
1 TV '" (ThiH Ts said with a certahi emi.hasis, suggesting
he /<; thit he is not in a hurry.) ,lI'V''Ai^-lf"' " vf up'
we hoar " Driver, I want to go to Gold Mill. < - -t p,
tliere is room:" a new passenger who gets inside A to .t
certain time wo find ourselves in the suhurhs ot ^ H\i- "'^.
aty We have added to our h.a<I three haske s, a ro 1 o
wdl payor and a trunk, which is hetwoon my le-s! A hit
mm w o sT tting on tile hood ahove mo, puts, with unpor-
^Ko'olness, his hoots upon n.-lumklor ; two hi , nx^
faced women, fiankod with cahas, with pai^isol., under pie
tenee ot hdll^ afraid, allow Jo to gallantly hoist them m the
1h' tliinkrJ, aii<l lio
I lu't it i> ."
lioiit ('oiitriwru'tion,
■i'miiiiiiis, ()t'\vli(>iii I
llavnitr iiskfd tor
i'iiiii,ir, tin- iKiiniions
liis ibrtmiiitt'ly tlio
■cstaiiraiit \u'c\M' in
iitidi'lrt HO cnrrnittotl,
(rule Voltaire ami
I' have supiiostMl of
'iKTosity, ami kind-
■liino 9.
ho lioat if< oxccssivo,
iU'rf. ^\'c liavo four
\k'. tluTo. T m-koii
I tlio itriiiciiial stirot
or i»assons>;ofs, wo are
mo can only comibrt-
'tlio biitcllorV, who
^•, Jo, vory warm to-
; to some one near to
it attain. ".To, my
any- placo?" " Any
up. The sun bakes
> patience. " Driver,
r, are you in such a
omphasis, sujrticsting
lardly started again,
)ld Mill." "<Jetup,
gots inside. After a
: suburbs of Virginia
iroe baskets, a roll of
ween my legs ! A fat
me, puts, with imper-
aioulder ; two fat, red
h ytarasols, under pro-
mtly hoist them in the
Tin: itiDi: TO iKXYTos, si:vM).\. 386
midst of lh(! other nnfortimato inside passengers, wlioro
tlii-y HUccci'd in ileposiling their eor|inlent Itodies. "■('ling,
clang," wo aro rollini; along. (My neighltonr to the riglit
speaking to .lo-.j *' 'I'iioso poopK' wi' took up at the Inter-
national, aro they not a [tart of tin- travelling company at 11
dollar and a half a ticket 'i" "Vos," answered do. "Ahl
speak to nu'. of iSilly, lu' is worth one dollar and a half; he
was (load drunk every evening, although a eharining fellow."
'i'hereupon ho lurni'd roun<l to take notice of theaumii 'on
which what ho had Just said proiliieed. " Stop, driver, I
am going to i)aytonl" '•'There is room, get up." My
neighbour above me draws back to make room for the ni'W
itassi'iigor, and thrusts his two boots on my right shoulder.
This tnrnished an oppi>rtiniity to the lattir to place his upon
my other shoulder, and liore 1 am between the two. \V'o
urrivo at the toll-gate. J am as rod as a lobster, my noso
peels. 'I'ho dust iilinds mo. 'I'he sweat which 1 w ipo off
from my face would servo for nioilar. Our driver poacealtly
continues his journey, taking up many ]iassengers with his
imperturbable " Ph-nty of room." At the toll-gate, I tiet
rid of the trunk bi'twoon my logs. Iiotwoen tlu- basket,
which raises my foot several inches abovo th" tloor, and
the boots of my companions above me which mal<«' mo
bend my back, I had the appearance ol' one of those Chinoso
grotos(|uo figiu'os, squatting down, the chin at the top of
the knoos, which ornament the otagores. After two hours
of siitfering wx' arrived at Dayton. Dayton has but one
street, or rather has none, seeing that the town is conlinod,
or nearly so, to about one hundreil houses, which line
the road.
Dayton, Ni'vncla, Tnno 0.
A small village, seven miles from ^'ii-ginia City. Sitting
before tho door of the inn, I am tranquilly smoking my
cigar, awaiting tho hour for my concert. All at once I
hoar at some distance the noise of a largo drum. " What
is that?" to tho landlord. " Why," says ho, looking at
mo, "is not your concert for to-night? Well, now, tlu'y
are drumming to call the crowd." A ragannitHn riishod
through the street ringing a boll from door to door "to
call tho crowd ;" but the linest part of the affair is that for
33
■i
'.m
NOTES or A riAMST.
Wn .nit.utos tl.o .In.nm a.ul th. luj; < ni n an .lU. t. A
Hum..,n.k..l l.y two.liun.s,tl.c nn^a- <.l tla- ..11 an.l tl, ■
l,i.. .Iniiu, wl'... havi. r..nio for u " run up to tlu" hI.uw I
'.'.Strive to m-ai..,una lly like u hare tnm. '.ar ot tho..
'''Tl.'ol.!.l'rot- the thcatro i-^ lightodCO by tl.iv.. or Iniir
H.noUinu' Arpi.ul hunps. Th. .tap- is ho dark hat o,„-
'Ivrt ha. mtlKT thi look of a., .xlnhiti..., ..» the Ht.n-
optirnn. Our ai..lioiu-o cMi/iHtH ..t a tew fiual.'s U'U 01
tvi'lve hnvs, inclu.liMu^ theniu the tw.. .Innus, the bass
,,,,„„, „„.l ,1... 1k.11. The halau.e «.v .uiiutk ;n lartre tlan-
,..1 shiptH, with pautalooMH tun.e.l uiM.ver t a.r larije .out
Ti,,i, lar.v ( alilon.ian hatn niv ot gnv le t nv, h hroa I
i ,' i)o not hasten to ,.o„ehale ;tVon, 'h.s that they were
turl.uU-nt. Thev listen attentively, and the.r .le.i.nt and
rauMMil denu-anour woul.l eause shame to n.any and e ues
1 at i.rilen.l to the retin.'nu'nts of en ih/ation. It is not
■sdUthe lirst tina. that 1 have had the ..,.,.or un, tv o
takin- .oti.eofthisla.t in a Cahlornian aiahenee. Ih u
reteuded rud..ness, whi.-h 1 have so o ten heard ^poke o ,
L.H Imek to the l-nnruive tin.es ol the ,nn,er.ol..>s.
M'hev are now nn.eh n.ore retiuid, Letter e.lu.atid than the
' KVr AVest; 1 repiat it, I have rarely seen a inon- peaee-
i', 1 .oi.ulation. 1 is true that I ua.ke my protrran.nies as
. in le >ss hie. It would he as ah.sr.rd to play lor then,
p . vH ver ' dilKeult to nndersta.u 1, or elass.nd n.us.e, as to
!; vehoelsteaks to a newU-horn infant. • »';\v have ne er
Card the piano, a.al of all instrunu.nts ,t ,s the most Ih-
<.ult to remler eomi-ri-la-nsive to an audience who h.,%c
,1 , ost or never heard n.usie. K.ery n.strument wh.eh
^om its nature endnaees. multiple n.nhn.at^u.ns ot scnuaK
in ohseure to an ear that is not aeeustomed to 1 b d)
irt the .-oneert ende.l, than a youn- girl i>ut ot the audien.e
no nts the platforn. and n'.ietly turns out t lu- only Argand
t aLave liL'ht, whether poorly or well, to his part ot the
ex ild ou I B.ppose sheSs the daughter ..f the propneto,-,
^n would waier that she will ho a vrcH.ouH "-.l'"«;^"; '
?o the hushand who shall marry her. At te.i oel k t
nijrht,we iiot into the sta.i^e agam to ^oUirn to \ irgm a
Cny. This time I am sitting alone near the dnver. Iho
I
T.
ilriiiii arc (|Uh't. At
«Ih till' llR-aliv 1 iim
of till- IkII, iiiitl III'-
up t<» till' hlinw." 1
I'o from 'I'lir of tliorto
(V) liy thri'*' or four
is HO (lurk tliiit our
liiiiitioii of the Hti'ri'-
fi'W fiimilt'H, ti'U or
two (Irmiis, till' l)iisft
ruiui'rrt iu lariif tlaii-
o\i'r tlicir lart;i' liootf<.
^ray fi'lt with broatl
III 'I'lis that thi-y were
luid thi'ir (li'ti'iit au<l
ui' to iiiauy aiitlu'iii'i'rt
vili/atioii. It if* not,
111 tlu' oiiiiortunitv of
iiiiiii aiidiciiti'. 'I heir
Dfti'U heard Hpokeu of,
f the uiiiu'r-eolouists.
tter etlueated thai' the
ely Heeli a more peaee-
ke my jiroirrammes aw
(si-.rd to pliiy for them
r classical music, as to
lut. They have never
iits it is the most dilH-
u audience who have
cry instrument which
)iultinationH of soinids,
^tomed to it. Scarc(;ly
;irl i>ut of the audience
iiHOut the oidy Arj^and
veil, to this part of the
irhterof the jiroprietor,
? a precious acquiaition
er. At ten o'clock at
I to return to Virginia
e near the driver. The
77//; rw'o i.('n:iis\
087
Weather is su]ierl». The mooiillirht is splendid. Tlie sky
aliove our head is of u somlire liliic, in which, Lke detached
diamonds, the .«<tars sliiiie out. ( In t|i«' horizon, the niotui-
taiiis, liathcd iu transparent vapours, j^ive to the landscape
the appearance of a liiiry scene.
'I'he moiiiitaiiis are hroutjht so near that, seen from the
hciu'hf where We are, thi'oijiih this Itliie vapour, they scciii
til he ihe waves of ail o<can, which, hy a iiiagiial cH'cct,
have hci'onie petritled in the midst of a tt'iiipct. Tim
ln'ce/.e, whi<'h Mows softly, hi'insis to us the thoiisind dis-
tant soiMids from the dee[i valleys and high peaks. A hir I
coiu'ealed at the hottom of the nreeipice inaKeH its monoto-
nous soiig heard, compost'd of tiirei' notes, which it re]icatii
without inteniiption.
At the tiU'M of the road we perceive at the tof» of the
mountain, along the sides of which our road winds, an
Indian. My driver, it appears, has liveil a long time among
them. They are, said he, very peaceful, and Ic^s lazy than
the majt>rily of their race. They go to Virginia City every
day, and are employed in carrying waicr, hurdeiis, etc. It
must he said that they have no staltle occupations. The
Indian only lives fiom day to day, and would ne\er he ahle
to accustom himself to any iiernianent work. Their wives
are very chaste. She who is uiitiiithfiil is condemned hy
the triite and put to death. I.ast year the peo|)le of (lold
Hill went to giither, at the proper season, ]tiiie-coneH in the
Woods of Ihe neighhoiM'ing mountain. A young Indian
woman and one of the yoinur ^t^<'i\ of CJold Jlill nu't. They
loved eaeh other. Some tune after the two lovers were
surprised hy an Indian of the trihe coming out of the
tunnel of the Uphir Mine. lie showed no resentment, and
even accepted some money whicli the young man offered
him to secure his silence. The next day the Iiody of tlu'
poor Indian girl was found in the tunnel of the Uphir Mine.
1
888
]S!OTES or A PIASI-^T.
CHAPTER XXV.
June 13, 18C5.
Viri?iuia City i'^ such that my ju^ .^ ^^^^
«»;l " ^;S^^i^^^ otLonvi. you would
r;Xl JtgK a .■ivor-fto Tujkcy I ..ehevo
-'" »^ '-'t'^nrrsrouXaH^-r^f-pin^^ Te
are nunreroiia. "« 1"'» ."" . y,i,» mountains arc aea n
covered ^v.tU fX^n„„n X Jd »'''°' *" ' '""""^' "'
fr:c:uf"welrc S iSJe,of whom one i» a lady
Mn™ck,I asked a man who ocnuuc a c„mm- it he
^; „d^J,ange places ^.^^.^^^J. ^ wl
DUTCH FLAT.
389
June 13, 18C5.
c, Ilaviuc; thuiiUy
fifteen dollars tVoin
; antli'ily (pi*ol)af)ly
i), " that ho hatl no
now more 1 I tyll
^, aiul that ends it ;
:e yon pay sixty dol-
m you!" Amiable
y last impression of
cavhis it can be still
did not appear to me
- the Turks in the
'.e pui'pose of finding
voly cool, it is neecs-
urpose of afterwards
otherwise you would
its its didl and sickly
les to be mean, but
Turkey, I believe—
y bottom. The trees
forest of pines. The
mountains are agaiji
its are replaced with
adds to the beauty of
whom one is a lady,
xnipied a corner if he
noment, as I was suf-
). He refuses mo w\th
anity 1 When will thy
:ures ? Politeness is a
an one side to charity.
and, so long as oui- fi'llow-fonntrymen shall atlect to des[iiso
politeness, tliey will be savages and not Cliristians.
"•I bet you it is the place to get a good dinner, ^'irginia
is the place, you l)et. There ain't a plaee in the wurl<l
(nothing short of the world would do), you bet, where you
can live better tlian in Virginia." This is from my neigh-
bour who gives vent to his feelings, having hail a bad sup-
per at the previous station.
The night, a dreadful night, fortunate!}' com]iensated for
by glimpses of a magnificent nature which the moon lighted
up, ]iassed slowly.
Tlie lady at the back complains that her neighliour in the
middle crowds her too nuu'h, or that thi' one ojiposite treads
u]ion her feet; all the awkwardness that I have met with
scarcely ever takes ]tlace in stages but during the night.
The first rays of day at last illuminate our fin-es — dirt}',
covered with dust, our eyes swollen from want of sleep, etc.
We arrive at Dutch Flat, a pretty little village, conceak-d
at the bottom of a w ooded gorge like a nest in a l)ush. I'lie
neat, white houses are covered with magnificent rose bushes,
whose fif)wers cover the trellis as high as the root. They
are small frame houses very neat, very small, etc.
Concert this evening. Almost one huntlred and seventj'
persons. Audience very quiet — very quiet becuuse they do
not applaud. It is true that they di(l not otherwise show
their discontent. I very much suspect that they regretted
their dollar and a half. "Taken in," said one of them some
time afterwards, and added, to console himself, " It is true
that for once it is nothing." It will be the givers of
concerts after mc who will feel their resentment. I still
camiot help remarking the proprietj' of conduct of these
audiences who, howe'ci wearisome our nm.ic nuist a[>poar
to them, submit to it without protest.
It often happens to mo when pL'n'ing to look at my
audience. Tliere are certain passages where I am so ac-
customed to see their countenances brighten up, that in
civilized audiences I am wont to consider it an indissolu-
ble thing like cause and ettect. For exanqole, the close of
'Murmures Eoliens' or even 'Last Hope,' or tia- end of
'Ojos Criolos.' Here, I ]>erceive(l that it is exactly as if I
was speaking Chinese; tlicy hardly understand it, and in-
I
y,,Q yOlTS OF A riAMST.
.luUitivdy rcjranl mo oM-rtiu. n.ysoinvitl. that ';'u;>ous a,,a
vicmt air which other iiruonmiuscs, lor install., la^t upon
h . k n <.f a tc-U.un-ai.h' operator. How n,any things there
nrc o earn, we otten cry out 1 Vomo here, a;,<l m seeing
Zse alanenVos, you will see how many things u is possible
to he iiiuorant of. ... i •4.,..:ii
To give vou an idea of the artistie ignoraiu'e hero it v ill
l'l"st evening the opera hall was tillo,! to ovortlowino-
(thc.re were .lanees, eome..lies, ete.). X. was re.eivo.l ^^^h
thunders .)f applause, hut he is past-nuister in us art. lis
imitations upon the violin of hm Is .luac rui.e.ls are inin i-
tal.le. His music is what can he felt an.l umlers oo.l w.th-
,M,t any need of being a musician (a blow at me\ hvi.ry-
b..dv understood it." Ami here is the measure ol the tastes
(,f Nevada. O ignorance', when will you ceivse to be i)ie-
tentious and insolent! n <. ;„
I have been sick for three days. I cai.not rec(.llect m
fifteen yeai-s of travels and vicissitudes liaving passed eleven
davs so sadlv as hero. 1 defy your finding in the whole o
Ei;ro,.e a village where an artist of reputation would find
hims -If as isolated as 1 have been hero. 11 m place ot p ay-
n- the piano, of having eompose.l two or throe hundred
pieces, oi' having given seven or eight thousand concerts, of
iavin^ .-ivon to tVio poor one hundred or ,.ne hundred and
fiftv tliousand dollars, of haviug boon knighted wice, I
luKl sold suecossfully fi.r ten years quarters ot salted hog,
or la.l made a groat fortune by selling dear what 1 had
b on rT. (leap mv poor isolated chamber would have been
SVt doJi; and admirei-s. l)ocidc.lly the countiy
oTimmcy is not the one of artists. " Muse, etendoz vos ailes
ct fuyozau plus vite."
Juno 16, ISO.").
Loft Dutch Flat bv stage at five o'clock in the morning.
\( vada Citv is thirty miles off, and we sha 1 be there at
i,. If.past eleven o'clock. The country is charming, less
nilliJmiLous; it penults the sight to -toml -w grec^
prairies, which gently undulate an. are lost i"/!'*; 1"'";
foe'ts which cover the sides of the distant mountains. At
ne o'clock we arc at Grass Valley, a yeritable garden;
^■■i.»»
Ii that .urionsimd
iistaiK c, cast ui»)n
many tilings tluTc
uTo, a'i<l in swing
liings ii is ii()ssil)lo
nranco lioro, it will
ai>iK'aiv(l to-day.
od to ovt'i-tlowiiig
was n'( oivc'd with
(T in Ills art. His
IrujicMls, arc ininii-
1 undorstood witli-
,w at nu')- Kvory-
oasnro v»i" tlio tastes
ou eci'.st! to be pre-
cainiot recollect in
aving]iasscd eleven
ing in tiic whole of
[)Utation woidd find
11" in vilaco of i)lay-
,-o or tlirce linndrcd
honsand concerts, of
or one hundred and
; knighted twice, I
irters of salted hog,
ig dear what 1 had
er would have been
H'idedly the country
use, etendez vos ailes
Juno 16, 1805.
look in the morning.
vo shall he there at
•y is channing, less
r» extend over green
are lost in the pine
<tant niountahis. At
, a veritable garden;
GRASS VALLEY.
891
laughing, sprnco, Howerv. coquettish, it has under the
morning sun whicli gib's it the appearance of bidding mo
welcome. Adieu to my apleeu I I have forgotten Viriiinia
("ity and its villunoas mountains, bald and grim, which
make mouths at you peri)etually as if they wished to re-
proach you for the incessant overturnings to which the
cu[iidity of men condenms them. Here the roses crnnb to
the_ roof tojis, tlio trees are gigantic, the brooks gayly roll
their crystal waters, wantoiiiug anud the nicks which are
in their way. No more briers, I)ut trees and flowers ; no
more of bald leprous hill-tops, but verdure and finally life.
1 respire, I live again.
(Jrass \'alley is charming. The streets arc carefully
planked; this gives them the ai)pearaiice of a floor. The
h()tel is excellent. The journalist comes to pay mo a visit.
We set out again at eleven o'clock for Xevada, which is
only four iniles from Grass Valley. The valleys become
larger. The view is magnificent. The trees are gigantic.
At a turn of the road we see all at once below us a large
valley, a pasture, a garden in the midst of which little
houses are at first scattered, afterwards they are grouiicd
together, and finally form a village— it is Nevada. The
stn-ets are also planked as. well as the pavements, and they
are so united and so clean that one might think one was
driving over a floor. There arc several tine, sp;i ious hotels,
furnished with luxury. Large billiard halls are attached to
them.
Concert at Temperance Hall. One hundred and fifty
persons who listen witji infinite attention. I would not
dare to say that thoy listened with pleasure, but at least
they behaved themselves decently. There is decidedly an
amelioration in this evening's audience. All are well
dressed. Some females have hats. Temiterance Hall backs
on a steep hill, covered with verdure, on the top of which
is hung a charniing cottage of Chinese architecture, painted
rose-colour, white, and green.
Nevada City, Juno 17, 1SG5.
I have already given twelve concerts at San Francisco,
made a tour to S.ncramento, Placerville, Carson Citv, Day-
ton, CJold Hill, Virginia City, and Hutch Flat. I shall not
(
a
i
302
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
trv to give you an idoa of tho fatigue of tlio.^e travels.
Those wl.o are una.-.iuainte.l with this eountry could never
conceive what the roads are in the niountan.s, and tliedan-
.rors of all kinds aeei.mi.anyin!.^ the route tVoni >an P raneisc-o
to Nevada. Let it sutHce to state that 1 renuuned twenty
hours in tlie sta<?e from I'laeerville to Carson City. Also
that I was sick for three days afterwanis. _
California is a huiahug. The elinuite is eortainly splen-
did : the mineral and natural richness of the soil are mex-
haustihlo. The p'ncsf fruits ami rajctahl.rs in the world arc
found hero. But wlud is all this to a man who o;yns no
mines, to know that they produce ahnndantly (is this
always true) 'i If, like myself, ho eats l>"t little, and is not
an ei.icuro, what does it matter to him that the most splen-
did salmon in the worl.l, and the most ma<?niheent straw-
herries are found here? Are the mines, the salmon, the
strawberries, etc., a compensation for the thousan.l and one
things wantinsr, which are discovered at every moment at
every step in the so-called civilization ot the t,olden ( ity '
The women are net pretty, and they dress as it tl.e whole
stock of the second-hand clothing shops ot Tans had been
sent to Californii'.
San Francisco, .luly 10, 1805.
I have commenced a second series of concerts here which
so far have bet-n very successful.
August 15, 18G5.
I have left on board the steamer Jnlia,togo to Stockton.
After havhig crossed the bay, .. ^)}^'' ^^"^"^Z
which narrows the passage so that the sides o the boat
graze the banks; this tongue of the sea pioires the lan.l a^
far as Stockton, ninety miles from San 1 nmcisco \Ve
arrived at two o'clock in the morning, but^ I slept until
ei.rht, and did not go on shore until lune. 1 ut up at the
\veber Hotel. Do not suppose that it rotors to the musi-
cian, but rather to a German coloni.t, to .vliom almost tlie
whole town belongs, aiid who possesses a t«)rtune ot many
'" ThT'town, or rather the village, resembles Sacramento
ou uvery small scale: several churches, pretty little cot-
ii
COLFAX ASD GOLDAX.
898
13 of those travels,
•duntry could never
iitaiiis, and tlie(lan-
froniSan Francisc-o
1 remained twenty
(.'arson City. Also
Is.
e is eertainly sjtlen-
i)f the soil are inex-
Irs in the world are
L man who owns no
ahnndantly (is this
hut little, and is not
that the most s]>len-
; magnilieent straw-
les, the salmon, the
he tho!jsand and one
at every moment, at
of the tiolden City 'i
dress as if the whole
Id of Taris had heeu
RANCisco, July 10, ISGC.
[' concerts here which
August 15, 18G5.
lia,to<!;o to Stockton.
into a kind of hayou
the sides of the hoat
lea iiiorces the land as
San Francisco. We
intr, hut I slept until
nine. Put up at the
it refers to the musi-
, to whom almost the
sea a fortune of many
resemhles Sa(>ramento
■lies, pretty little cot-
taiTOs concealed, like nests, hchind the thick foliage of the
large trees.
Concert small, in a mean hall, without platt'orni. We-
ceipts one hun(hvd ami twenty-eight dollars. Tliccxpcnscs
amount to more than the i<'(vi[)t8. 1 have heen intruduccd
to tludgc L'nderhill, a charming man, who is an amateur of
music, and plays the organ in the J'rcshyterian Church of
his friend the pastor I lajipersctt. The latter isa charming,
jovial, agrecahle old man, whose frank laughter indicates a
tranquil conscience, and the ahsence of gall. Amiahleman !
The organ of his little church is charming. J I is room is on
a level with the organ loft, and. its recess conununicates
directly with the pulpit. At the time 1 jiaid him a visit I
found him writing his sermon for the next Sunday. Large,
round, and legihle writing, cli'ar and firm, like the good
man's character. The most magniticent fruits ripen here,
peaches, tigs, grapes, etc.
A small newspaper gives an account of inj' concert. It
lias discovered that L shake with the thumb and the fourth
linger, and thence concludes that 1 do not know how to
play the piano, and that I am a charlatan incapal)le of
playing Ueethoven. The same nonsense still !
1 have visited the insane hospital; been introduced to a
German baron, a very distinguished man, a captain in the
I'russian army, a civil engineer of the greatest worth. 1 le
possesses great intelligence, hut he is msane and imagines
that a hand of jealous persons has heen organized to follow
him day and night, and to ridicule him.
Colfax, the Speaker of the House of Kepresentatives at
"Washington, is here. He spoke last night to an inimense
crowd. The placard of the meeting announcing Colfax, and
that for my concert, are alongside of each otlu'r. A fat
farmer, who evidently understood no more about politics
than he did about music, mixing the two names into one,
in(|uired "AV^ho then is this Coldax?"
l)iiied at the Lafayette Kestaurant, kept hy a Frenchman,
and have eaten there, Avhich it would have heen im[)Ossible
for me to have done at the Weher Hotel.
Aly second concert has not been mui'h more fruitful than
my iirst. The baron (of the Lisiine Ilfjspital) was there,
and congratulated me on my great talent. An amateur of
394
NOTKS OF A PIAMST.
the town playo.1 a solo on thofluto ono to"o Iow.m- tlu,n tl.o
' u. t nnnlHrno, who, not l.oinjr .l.lo to j. ay,the pumo
l.unis the uir to hi. scholar, (^(o ot ^lu; .as inc.os ^ncn
hv him for them to vrartiso is 'Moise le 1 halbe-i^.
• I was rnvscnted on my tt-tcMlay ^v,th a sni-orh mo. a .
All tho .U tails of the presentation will he toun.l m the Cl-
io vi<^ Uieo: " For two clays tho xyoiulermK erow<l has
t?M 0.1 ^ the window ..f Mr. Tucker, the jeweller, m
M ..iKM-y Street, to a.lmire the heaiitiul medal yre-
^ Tt.> t^^ttsehalk on tho day of St. L.mis, his tete. a^ ,
hv his frien.ls of Sail Francisco, m testimony ot, their
.po -ia i. n .>f his talent an.l of their esteem lor his per-
appiuiaii II p .H-he, whose well-
klln'nt Sy II l^iu^lM- 'dy by In. lovJ i.r tho arts
ai^l le .r<.tect^.n wllich ho gives them, that appertains
wo are assure.l, tho initiative of this mag.nticent otiermg
ot- ri; .ect ron.lero.l to a great artist an.l to an amiable nuui
by the^lite of the Bank and of the great meirhants o Sau
iiuXT The subscription-list, Laving at tho head tho
names of Mr. Piocho and of onr worthy an.l respecte.1 con-
sul Mr. De C'azotte,was covered in a tew hours with tort v
Bi.nuitures. Mr. Mezzara, the eminent sculptor, ottered,
wTth the /.eal ..f an artist whoso heart is always veady to
associate him with n.>ble thoughts, to d.-sign tho model lor
tiie me.lal whieb Mr. Tucker was called "po" /.. execute.
It was on the 5tb of August that the ino.lel ot Mr. Me/./.ara
was sent to liim, an.l, altbougb there were only twentv
days for him to accomplisb the dilhcult and .lelicato task
which ho was called .)n to perform, he has succeede.l m
making a chcUVmivrc of jewelry wbicb is c-ei-taml}- unuiue
in America, and which could not be surpasso.l in elegance
in delicacy, and in magnificence m the ateliers ot Iroment
^ "The 1 Cementation of the medal took place at the dinner
which the forty subscribers gave, on the 25tb A|igUBt o
Gotts.-halk. The menu of the banquet whose bill ot laie
must easily have made the ghosts of \ atel, Careme, and
Brillat Savariu leap for joy, was a marvel ot gastronomic
research and of culinary c-hemistrv. At the ^^^^^^^^
taking their seats at the table, Mr. rioche, alter a few ^veil-
A MA(JMIHi:ST GIFT.
31».j
r»no lowiT tliiui tlio
1)1(1 (Jc'i .liiii I'layor
to jilay the piano,
u' last pU'crs n'ivcu
. ThallKT>r'.' ^
h a siiiiorli iiu'dal.
I)t' foiuitl ill the t'ol-
luk'niit;; rro\v<l liiw
r, tlio' jowt'llor, in
aiitiful medal i>re-
Louis, \m tt'te-tlay,
tostiinony of their
L^rtteeiu lor his per-
I'ioehe, whose well-
i.s love for the arts
ni, that aitpertaiiif*,
iiaj:;iutieoiit ottering
to an aiiiiahlo man,
^t merc-hanta of San
iig at the head tho
y and respected con-
.\v liours with forty
it setilptor, ottered,
is always ready to
lesigii tho model for
ed npou to exceutc.
lodel of Mr. Mezzara
e were only twenty
lit and delicate task
he has succeeded in
li is eei-tainly unique
Lir]>assed in elegance,
I ateliers of Froment
k place at the dinner
the 2.'Jtli August, to
L't, whose hill of fare
f Vatel, Careine, and
ar\'el of gastronomic
At the moment of
)che, after a few well-
chosi'u words, handed to (Jottselialk, in the name of all of
theiii. the casket of red velv«'t eoiitaiiiing llu' medal. Mr.
l)e Cazotte, Messrs. Madger, I'ioche, I'ringle, Caselli, Uich-
ard, and Scott made several speeches <) y^/viy/^.v of tho occa-
sion, to which (Jottselialk replied with the modesty and
tact whi»'h characti-rize him.
"The medal is of gold. It is nine inches in circiimier-
eiice. The principal face is formed of six jilates of aurife-
rous (piartz of ditlereiit colours artistically arraiiired, on
which are iixi'd the initials Jj. M. (;. in diamonds, sur-
roiinde<l with a crown of laurels in diamonds and ruhies.
The knot of the crown is fastened hy a ma<riiiticeiit soli-
taire. The reverse of the medal hears the arms ,,i' Cali-
fornia in relief, surrounded hy a circle of diamonds. IJclow
are these words: 'To Gottschalk: a token .rom his Cali-
fornian friends. 25 Aug. 18(5,).' The attachment of the
medal is made of a hirge ring set with diamonds, in the
midst of which is a lyre also with diamonds.
'•The intrinsic vafiie of this jewel, which liaa cost, we
are told, inore than two thousand dollars, is still surpassed
hy its artistic merit. It would he inipossihle, without see-
ing it, to form an idea of the delicacy of the work, of its
marvellous linish, and of the exquisite taste of this little
chrf-d'n iinr. Let us felicitate Mr. Mezzara on the origin-
ality which ho has shown in tho conception of its design,
and Mr. Tucker on the fidelity with whicli he has executed
it. Let us congratulate (Jottselialk ior having been able
by his private qualities and his talent to make friends wlio
know how to prove in such a significant manner tlieir
esteem for him.
'' This present is worthy of a monarch, and it appertained
to the (^ueen City of the Tacitie to present to the first
musician of America a testimony which was at the same
time worthy of the artist and in harmony with the mag-
nilicent generosity and the marvellous development of the
modern El Dorado."
On hoard toe Coi.oRAno, Spptcmbor 30, 18G5.
Li sight of tho coast of Costa Rica.
Purgatory is not what foolish people think it is. I know
by ex]>erieiice that it consists for the moment in going at
896
NOTES OF A riAMST.
tl. rate of i^nrtcn l^not. an h<;ur -ler a .nn ^ ;^1
„.elt a OH...- inn.cs "''',/'";] :\1k.UIh. h tlHr.k that
U- ^vc arrive at any i«.vt <'^\;:'^^; ',/.,„ ,„,. ,ais.U-o.ls l.a.
1 have sinncl u. iny lito, I ut th«- -^"i ' J » :> ^,; ,^
been cruolly eNpiatcd in tho hM » '•-^^ l^^^^;; ;,, ..j ,
;::;; S::':^"::^^^ to the ren.arU. of xny truvelhng
comnauums. „:„i.tnoiitli The heat in the
lioht of the bengal lire^^, the «e""^.,^^ ^^ ^^.^ ^^^^on is
«,„,,,al,.l "'""''S'Xr a k S of l.mm^ I'J- «l-»;-
drive„,liko,.y.cO on a k 1^2iri«La,. whc-o ho
.,..U Wan.l, a,. «- ";™ ' ^ jj^j.^ ttat Captain Coot
r.
r II mn wliu-h w»nil»l
uri' of goiiiji ashoro
Fii'Ulrt. 1 tliiiik that
"all my 111 WU-e'ds luirt
' (layrt of my sojourn
tii-Ht been pm-iird by
ich has liatl at U-ast
1110 to ki'i'i) my bctl,
rks of my travflling
ith. The heat in the
rhc moon iUumuuitcs
ic coast of Costa Kk-a.
/mvc lines are lost on
onds, the jihosi.horos-
itndes, where it soonm
lie transparency of the
of the theatre, where
laved, amid the bluish
ilour of the enchantwl
liuht of the moon is
ne'^of Alphonse Karr,
lying pell-mell on the
,est. Several families of
encampment by thein-
, and the young gu'W
the brothers and hus-
my cabin companions,
heat, gives me the fol-
icli Islands, where he
J has lately left,
the more as King iva-
ion to visit his Court,
he kingdom of the Sand-
They were discovered bv
ight that Captain Cook
billed there in a (luarrel
il the natives. Kameha-
lii; chief of a district, he
recosnized as king ot the
KAMlUlAyrFJIA.
897
wliole of tlie islands, afterwards he armed a brig which ho
had kept when \'anconver made his voyage of di'^covcrv,
ami witli the assistance of two Kiiglish sailors, wlio had
deserted (.1 oh n Young and I)avies),ainl iK-came his ministers,
lie c()ii(|uered all the otlii'r islands of the ardiipelago. 'I'ho
last Iiattle he was engaged in, and in which his victory
was decisive, and gained iiiin the sovereignty, took place in
the valley of Xonhouhan<:ii (Cold X'alK'V). Many thousands
of the hostile Kanak;., on .eeing themselves coniiuered, rather
than yield, threw themselves in a body from an iniinense
]iri'cipi<'e formed by a huge rock whii-h rises more than
tlirci' thousand feet above Cold A'alley.
Kamehanieha was a man of genius, lie ]iredicted Kuro-
peaii civilization. Assisted by the two sailors he applied
himself to civili/.e and itolish his people. 'IMie Kanaks are
mild and hospitable. Their instincts are poetic, and they
possess a simplicity and candour almost infantine. The
Kanak religion was Fetichism. They believed in sujierior
spirits. All their idols were symbolical. They had a sin-
gular custom, the Taboo.
Kamehanieha in his sphere was one of the great spirits of
humanit}'. *llis lieight Avas gigantic. Inking six and a half
feet. The prestige which surrounded him was marvellous.
The Europeans themselves felt it, so irresistible is the force
of genius, lie lived at the beginning of this century.
Tolygamy existed, and the chiefs and kings had, most
freiiuently, their sistera and daughters f(»r wives. In every
district whore tlie king stopped in travelling, all the women,
single and married, rushed to him with the offer to jiartako
of liis royal couch. In every chief's family there was one
of the daughters who was devoted to the office of learning
their traditions for tlio purpose of perpetuating them.
Queen Kalama, widow of Kamehanieha III., has lieen tlie
one who was best acquainted with the traditions of the
country. In this country it is only the mother who ennobles.
So far" is this carried that if the king himself married a
woman of an inferior condition to his own, her children
would be strangled in the cradle. It is tlius that (Jueen
Kalama, who was not of illustrious birth, saw all the fruits
of her union with Kamehanieha III. perish. This respi'ct
for nobility through the female is such that Prince AVilliam,
34
f
1
898
^'OTES OF A riASIST.
onlv 1)V tlie luali- lino. {^^'^^ . ' . ^.j;,,.^ 1,^ H..m an.l H^itmrt
S, Ivhuvcs will. ,avat ly^;;; „ V;\^, „vat uo\my «>
lis wifo! In the; tune o LooW t' U I .^. ^^^^ ^.^, ^,,,^
n-ce lnu.arc.a tlu.nsan, uR ^^^.^^ thousand ^vl^to..
eic^htv-oiuht th.>usan<l »^* "^'^^ ,\j „f »ll the other inhah,-
of antuiue statuary. ^ • ^1,^, ,..n,\tal ot the
Icmohdu, \n the is hu.l ^^^ ^X , urt. It l-o^sesses an
UiuUon., and -the ;-^->'l^''-\ / m h >ia two h\n>aml and
I;inund.UsheUere.ll.o , l;;l;^;';,,,,^^
ii ft V vessels. Ihetowni-* .:„ the island. In tie.
V l.ano,of ^vh•K;ll tl-'7,;;;';;\^ f.^est voU.an<.es in.the
island ..f llawaji;.n-e ' ' '\ .^.^Uiuty envters were m a
Ivorhl. In ^^^^5-^ ' "''* V tv w en these roleanoes arc
:^ e of activity. A P^-^^'^V^^ .;,± , ' l„ 1850 the lava,
norts 1 1 «-ith eoral and madrepore,
,,,,„„,,,. She ^'O^jnteiM^. H c ^^^^^^^^. ,, ,,
(uvdity of (iumainn, that is lo .a^>, i
/,«; fnnetion by hjrth- ^^^^^ ^^ ^ neuteiiaut-goucral
The uniioria ot tlic kui;,
ofFranee. . . „,,^nni/,od and directed J >y a
The inilitary music i^/:!'--"" ;,,^. years since with hi^
Gelnuui. The;kin.w- --g;X,rt .u,erb, i.. the
old wife, (iueeii Ivalama. 1
iV. I XZA MI. LA-ACA PUL CO.
3H0
atlKT .)f I'liuioNN li-
ve hirtH..ii, ana Hliowrt
the irivat ii()l>il»ty «)t
,,,„Uiti()U war* at K-ast
H-,('. the cfUsUH jravo
;w(> thounaial Nvlntcrt.
■ iiU the other mhabi-
s,*yhair; c.nni.lexi'ai
portl.ms of their ho.»y
ino^t celehrateel tyi.es
in the oapitul of the
;.ourt. It i.o:^>^o'*^;"^ an
hol.l two hun.Uvil luu
the foot of an ext met
in ihe island. In the
vatest voUanoeH n» the
\uuty eraterrt were m a
hen these roleanoes arc
,.,,, lnl85Uthelavjw
»,l for a eoui-se ot titrj
,l»m valleys, nu>nntums
,oa, mie<l wv »»''"J' ''""''^
H, coral and madrepore,
izc by formhig auuvmm
,nis. The two prmeu«d
iiul Maoimakea.
roeords of the kmiT., lu
;ay, i.rhne. minister ; it i>i
,at of a lieutenant-general
,i,od and <Vireeted hv a
seme years smeewUh s
paUuc is sni-erb, m the
niiilsf of n park, and is fnrnisjicd in Fiviicli ntvU- Mitli
iiiarvflldtis luxury. All tlio porlraits of !i\ ini; Kuropinn
sovi-reipis are there. Tlio n«rciitioiis at tla- palace arc
vci-y hrilliaiit and imposing'. 'Ilic climate in li'inperatu
and delicious.
Their iiiauiierrt are dissolute, and the women are addicted
to lihertina.iiv. Tliey marry at \nni\ ten to eleven vears
of a^^e and at twenty-four are old.
O.N rioAui) Tin; Coi.nnADo, Scjitoiilicr 30.
AVc rcaehcd on tlie twenty-fourth Man/,aiullo,a Mexican
town, concealed in a little bay, encased l)y mountains,
whose sides lose theniselvi's in the shore; the town in fact
is but a cluster of huts. The Mexican imperial tlau' tloats
at the eiul of a mast on tlio roof of n W|uare ffamt' white-
washed btuldiiiix, the ^'overnor's palace without doubt.
Two or three piroirues loosen from the shore and approach
onr steamer, one of them manneil by three yoiuiir Mexicans,
covered with nnislin drawers, whirii descend as far as the
middle of the thi.udi. They use paddles. Tlie vouiiu'est
of the three is ten years old at most. IK' absolutely wished
to sell me a monstrous tortoise, which he has all the
trouble in the world to keep at the bottom of his hoat.
>'ot beini;' able to well it lie seats himself on the b; l< of the
monster, who tranquilly crawls along without ajipcaring
to notice thi^ increase of his load.
Another canoe lias boardeil us; it is that of the custom-
house. A half naked Indian, whose shirt, with sleeven
boimd with yelknv pipings, is in tatters, is an imperial
soldier who accompaides the custom-house officer.
Arrive at Acapulco to-morrow. Acapulco, according to
the dictionary of Mr. IJouillet, is what in reality it is not,
for it is only a small borough, Tlic houses are all low,
and consist oi" oidy a ground' floor. The French returned
here four days ago and liavc landed a garrison of three
Inmdred Mexican soldiers. They are for the most part
Indians or nudattoes, who go barefooted and are very dirtv.
There is not one of them whose uniform is jierfect, wlii'le
the greater number have the short coat like the Prussian,
which reaches t() the middle of the thighs. Thev are
A lai-ge otHcer of awlcward
small and repulsively ugly,
J
400
A'07Y;.S Oh a /7.1.V/>T.
fi ,...-.. like 11 Dull (hiixoto, in iinif'onn nf tin- line, l-iirmUH
^^ • 1 ; is 1 nil .nnully plu.-cl on .!..• l.an-ll.. nf Ins In.-o
La U Int. a lunjr'l.luo -oat an.l .ap, -.war. a vvat.l.-
r vat nl K^v pantal.-ons .,...tl..l w.tl, .^''•"l'--.^, ' ''^^^
,nV lor ir.s .-War «'' >'^'»'f '"""' '''"'' "'"' .^V v '
i,v ot Inaki^ a...,uain.an.v wl.i.;h t a- Span.h An..;w
T u. ! .Mu-ml '• nai.l th. lieutenant, who intro.lmvs to ,no
11. oU (Quixote. The ge,KM-al is, as I have .meo
In only a n.lonel, hnt it is go...l taste n, the M ex, .an
;;;;;;;., :^non-!, the Huhaltern.,to exalt the eo.nn.an.ler hetore
''■■ffwhole town is .lei.o,.nlate.l. The F.-en.-h ha.l
iJ. • n then.selve., /han Mr. Die^o Alvave. re ,re.
i al the uiountainK whi.-h Hurnanal Aeapnleo \ ith
,,;,,,,, the. anny aeuonnee.l '"»">' ^^ " .,; S
for luivin" tVateu.i/.ea with the enemy; tl ey weic U(l
loi MiiNin (),n. Kivnehman only, whose httlo
Slit r \{i Irn -IW ,lu Va..iHHue,' lau. ha.l the
elose a^ani on us (leii.niun.. -i>^ ,i i
hnjl^rialist. and lives in the cellar durnig the day.
PASAilA A.\D im IVUTEllS,
401
i.r till- liiu', juinuUH
Imii.ll.' nf Ins liir,tr«'
(•ll|i, Wfill'M 11 VSlllcll-
iii'^troiit, II liiiiiil'iil
itli <j;ri'ii-*<'. 1 i>"*l^
itli, mill with tliiit
tlu" Spiiii'tsh Aiiu-ri-
trt of viildiir. ''Wo
WW now, but," he
at on hir* hi'sul, \\w\
ly iiioiistiiclK'. <lrt'\v
m-wrt tVoiu Nh'xiio.
ho iiitnMliW'cr* tit 1110
is, us I hiivi' sitico
tiistt' ill tht> Nh'xiiiin
lie ci)iiiiiiiiiiiUThi>tV)ro
Tlio Fi-iiifh hiul
)it«i!;o Alviin'Z ivtiivtl
iiiiil Ai'iipulco, -with
ants followiii him.
of the' Fri-iirli than
in gi'iuTiil, that this
rinu; the first Kmich
ly of th*; inhahitaiitrt
iny; tlioy woir trii-d
lum only, whoso littUi
titiiiuo,'" has hail the
ssurc'<l he has oiu'iicd
the steamer and will
sells nothiiii!; to the
iring the day.
ClIAITER XX VT.
Ootolpor 1.
TiA\i>Kn at rniiama. The steamer east anchor iMlore tlu'
iHliind of 'roliai><i, at two miles distaiiee fnun liie town.
The Bito irt ravishin^r; tin; island is a broken coast, whosn
steep and |.reci|.itoiis (h'cliv ities pliiiiyv perpendi.iilarly
into tile blue sea.. A bout eoiiieH for Us, it will bave to
make three trips, for it cannot carry at onco four Imndred
))assen,u'ers, and wo are at least four Imndred. The wharf
IS crowded. The netrro i»orters, sellers of fruit and eitjars,
(luarrel aiiKjiii; tliemselves, an customary, for their juvy.
Each of us is assailed by six or eii;ht of these rairu;ed mon-
keys, who otli'i- us tlu'ir services hi Kiii;lisli, French, and
Spanish, and often impime themselves imperiously upon us
b^' Hcizinir, wbetber we are willing or not, our trunks.
'Ihe ^\•onlen sell lenionaiU', rum, and parrots. It is enough
to drive oim wild ; we arc Jostled, sipiee/.ed, tossed abc'mt
from one end of the wharf to the other. The first train is
just starting for Aspinwall, it is for tlie steerau'e i.as-
sengew.
I succeed in collecting tliree of my trunks, wliich are run-
ning at random on the Hhouldei-s of three biisybodies, who
were in (, -jst of a. job, and who consent, by means of a
forced contribution, to permit me to take possession of jiiy
property. A hat-box and small trunk are still missing,
but after the departure I sliall probably find tliem, because I
took tlie ]ireeauti()n of writhig on them "ranama," which
signifies that 1 stop tlierc, aiid takes from tlio jiortei-s the
hope of keeping them with impimity. Tliero remains to
them the consolation in pei-8|»eetive of skinning mo under
the pretext of having had to watch my baggage for two
A n oinniljus, d ruwn by two sorry-look ing hoi-ses, s wafged
in tlie back, driven by a negro, takes mo to the town [iro-
perly so-called, which is u inile off. On oui- road we pass
34*
r
1
402
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
by wretcliod cabins, notiroos in tattors, nuns oi stone-houses,
some totterinir walls, the stones ot^vliieh serveu tor_ huilcl-
iii"- the lew new tottc-niii? liovels whieh are built in tins
(kviri.it town. On u hut', a sign in Freneh, '' Y reneh gen-
tlemen travellers are informed that Jean t ran(,ois, troin
l>aris, washes and does everything pertaining to his trade.^
A lar<'-c square building of eut stone, the whole of wbu n
is l)roken down, and the interior of whieh has beeome a
medley of climbing vlants and trees, is the old Jesuit
college This is the old town, the title might lead one to
sni.nosc that the remainder is less in ruins Vam illusion.
Kuiiis ' ruins ! ruins ! The cathedral is talhng down. 1 he
wooden baleonics of the houses lean towards the street
with an evident tendency of throwing into it tliose who
might be so imprudent as to venture into them. 1 lie dis-
mantled roofs arc ecn-ercd with ve^retation. Ihe elock-
tower of the cathedral is covered instead ot slate with
pearl oyster shells incrusted in the masonry, which sparkle
in the burning rays of the sun. The streets are narrow and
crooked, and the pavements resemble the brim ot a well.
The porches serving for entrances to the shops are dark :
they sell in thein a lot of tattei-s and other mean dirty things,
the Aspinwall Hotel is kept by a Frenchman. 1 he
hotel is dirty, and dilapidated; the dinner is passable,
although I found many flies in my foup and omelette.
Opposite to the hotel a Frenehwoman keeps a shop ot
superannuated dresses. , ,. ,, x
1 have been walking on the promenade of the ramparts on
the edtrc of the sea. An old cannon, which keeps itsclt m
equilibrium ou half of a gun carriage, is vvhat remains of an
immense barraek of cut stone, llie walls have crumbled
and the roof is ftilling in, The ground floor still remains
The windows are grated it serving for a prison. A ci-owd
of unfortunates stretch out their hands to me through the
bars. " Un medio, Benor." I throw some smal pieces ot
money to them. " Dios lo bendiga," covered with benedic-
tions, I was about retiring; but the soldiers, allured hv
my generosity, arc at my heels, and I am so<mi surrounde.
bv a score of black and yellow ring^tail monkeys m red
caps, who have come out of the .g^a/j'^-l'""^*^- ., ^>' J?;\';'
caps I guess that I have business with the mviiiciblcs ot the
T.
THE OLD nisjior A.\/) hAraiiTiins.
403
vuins of stone-houses,
licli serveu for buiUl-
ik'h are built in this
"renc-li, " French gen-
Jean Fraiu;ois, from
•taining to his trade."
J, the whole of whieh
whieh has beeonie a
t?8, is the old Jesuit
itlo might lead one to
nuns. Vain illusion,
is falling down. The
n towards the street
iig into it those who
into them. The dis-
retation. The cloek-
nstead of slate with
asonry, whieh s^iarkle
streets are narrow an<l
le the brim of a well.
» the shops are dark:
her mean dirty things.
a Frenehman. The
le dinner is [)assable,
)up and omelette.
)mau keeps a shoi) of
lade of the ramparts on
, which kcejjs itself in
, is what remains of an
i walls have crumbled
uid floor still remains,
"or a prison. A ero\\(l
ids to me through the
V some small pieces of
' covered with benedic-
le soldiers, allured by
I am soon surrounded
g-tail monkeys in red
fuard-house. Jiy their
th the invinciblcs of the
army of occni)ation. The uniform consists of a scarlet cap,
cotton dra\vei"s, no shirt. Some have Itayoiicts at tlicir
sides, others a cartouche box hung by a slioulder-strap, and
no shoes. They were fighting three weeks ago.
Panama, (VtolKT 7.
A concert, organized by 8Til>scription, given in the ball
of the Hotel deVille. Tlie tickets are a ilollar. Ki'ceipts
one hundred an<l forty dollars. The audience appears to
be charmed, whilst I am playing on a cottage piano wliii-h
I suspect was the product of an illicit union l)etween a
Jew's-harp and a large kettle. The <'limate is so hot and
damj) that the best piano is not playable at the end of three
weeks. Besides they have no timer. The only person who
meddles with them is an unfortunate French secretary at
the consulate, who has one-half of his face and nose eaten
off by a frightful cancer.
I have seen to-day the President of the State, 'Sobrerano,'
of Panama. lie is a dark mulatto, who received me in his
sh'rt-sleeves and slippers, in a nasty, miserable, and unclean
little house. Ilis mother is an old negress who sells pre-
served guava, which she makes herself, and who tfoes every
morning to market, barefooted, in her chemise. The Presi-
dent is the son of the old Bishop of I'anania.
Yestenhiy I was adnuring a pretty girl, eli-ven or twelve
years old, who was making some })urchasi's in the French
Bazaar opposite the hotel. She is, I am told, the daughter
of the priest — this was said artlessly, as if A\e had bi^en
only speaking of the mayor. Besides her, the priest has
also six others — all pretty. She did not hesitate in saying
when she purchased: "•Place that on account of papa, il
Seiior Cura."
The French consul, Mr. T)e Y , cousin, I Ijclieve, of
Mr. Drouyn de LTIuis, is a charming man, who gave me
an excellent dinner, which I thanlcfully accepted and
appreciated with pleasure after the infernal cooking on
board.
lie showed me some superl* specimens of the ceramic
art of the Indians, found in digging near Chiriqui, two
hundred to three hundred miles in the interior. It is
curious that the form, design, and colour of the vases recall
i
404
NOTES OF A PIAXIST.
to iiiin<l those of the Etruscans. In the nccrorohs of
rhir Mi.i an innunuTahl. q'uvutity of gol.len onu.mont.
have \.c.on f.mn.l. The consul has nm.le a ^.o"^- urn ot
then,. Son.e of them are elegant and ot reniarkahle ;n ... k-
numshii.. Thev are for the most part annnals-h/.a.d ,
t V:U, sharks, ami crahs-from one to hvc inches m lengthy
ca-^t in -old, whu'h they douhtless suspended t.oni the
.; k if r wJre to ju.lge from the small ru>gs which were
i , -aHahlv found in afl these objects artistically concealed
t e na'ws or phurd in the middle of the sculpture.
The consul, havin^^ heard of very rich discoveries, ANTote
latc.lv to his asrcnt at C'hiri(iui, ordering him to purchase
a the (n-nanients which had been found in he recen
excavations. The latter complie<l, and the consul recei ed
at thJ cn.l of a few days a very, heavy box lull of shapeless
goklen iniiots,-the asient having had the happy mea, he
laid, of flattening with, the hammer all the objects, so that
thev miirht take up less room!
to ..ive vou an idea of the richness of the excavations
the w">iirht of the rough gold in the objects found at
Chiri.iui has been valued at seventy thousand dollars.
The church is dilapi<lated ; and everywhere the limnblc
taste of the Spanish religion: silver paiiei-s, artificial flow-
ers, horrible painting'. A picture, representing, I sv.pi^ose,
pursjatorv, has particularly attracted my attention. The
?\-initv, i.ainted on a eloud, lets fiill on a crowd of weeping
r.arenfs ndulgences and me<lals. In one corner a litt e
, -iest, on a iFttle cage, in which a spit of souls in trouble
Le roastimr mer a furnace, lets tidl, as through the clunk
of a monev-box, a few pieces of silver, which d.nibt ess are
to refresh the roasting ones. Completely, at the l>otto^n o
the picture, are seen the flames of purgatory, m the mid.t
of which a poiie,a bishop, a kii^g, a wnite man a black
man, and an Indian are burning-to prove doubtless that
no one is protected from the flames of purgatory, and ( on-
senuently could not be dispensed from paving its debt.
There ai4 some farmers who pay the priest for F>;n'^r, •;;
to sweep the church out after high mass on Sunday, i hty
oarefnllv -ather up the dust and spread it oyer their fiel.ls,
l^^ua'kMf Ihat it is an excellent fertilizer and that it blesses
their crop.
APATHY AXD WyORANCE.
the necropolis of
golden onianionts
ide SI collection of
' remarkable work-
t aninuils— li/anlf*,
,-c inches in length,
ispended from the
I rings which were
•tistically concealed
the sculpture.
Ii diset)verics, wrote
g him to purchase
unid in the recent
the consul received
jox full of shajteless
the happy idea, he
the objects, so that
of the excavations,
e objects found at
ousand dollars,
ywhere the horrible
ipei-s, artificial tlow-
resenting, I suppose,
my attcMition. The
a crowd of weeping
one corner a little
t of souls in trouble
3 tiirough the chink
which doubtless are
ely, at the bottom of
•gatory, in the midst
white man, a black
prove doubtless that
' purgatory, and con-
Dm paying its debt,
priest for ptTmission
iss on Sunday. They
id it over their iields,
zer and that it blesses
405
Xothing could give you an idwiof the ignorance and the
ni)atliy of theso people, who i-oiisitautly st-e the progress of
the eivilization <«f the Americans, and who iieverthelcsa
continue to iM)late themselves better than tlie Chinese tlo
behind their Great Wall. They have a horror of inno\a-
tions. The foreigner is repugnant to them beeause he
represents a sunnjiary of ideas and eustoms ditlerent from
those which have been iransinitted to them by their ances-
tors. They take great care not to expand their views be-
yond their small sphere of action, in which they are so
circumscribed that they l)ave finally lost all idea of social
proportion or historical i)erspective, Tliey depreciate all
ft)rei"fn events which take place, and exaggerate all those
whic-li appertain to themselves.
Their views never extend beyond the circle of little*
intrigues and i»etty jtassions in which they take jiart.
Through constantly occui»ying themselves only with them-
selves, they finally lose every idea of pro])ortion ; the im-
perceptible sphere in which they move becomes the centre
of the world ; the universe looks at them — the}' think
themselves great.
Panama, October 10.
The French consul has just told me that I will make the
voyage to Lima in comj)any with sixteen French Sisters of
Charity, tv/o Lazarists, and a young Peruvian [triest, who
has just taken orders at Rome. God grant that this holy
cargo may procure for us a calm and a happy voyage!
The English steamer is ii dozen miles distant from I'anama.
A little steamer — in which are [tiled our trunks, upon wliich
the whole of the sisters and the priest have seated them-
selves — takes us otf. Singular change! I cast a look of
regret on this miserable little town in ruins. I leave there,
almost affections, doubtless very premature ; but a travelling
pianist is outside of all rules, he has little time to lose, he
loves very quickly, and I have left behind me many pieces
of my heart hanging on the thorns by the road.
There was ojtposite to my hotel a little Indian girl, with
large black eyes, and coai-se hair, which scarcely yielded to
the constraint of a large gold comb. A suytple figure,
beautiful yellow bronze round shoulders, naked or nearly
406
yoTKS OF A r/Ayif^T.
,,.,tiK-r. M.e '-<! '>;\;"^; ,^, ,.^' ^ ,,,,i thms though, to
'""wlh J'trml 'l art it "in" to sci^ -r any n.oro .h.n I
'^" .1 r i ti.c str .et. I often h.oKc..l at h.r again, c-mv-
,elvos on thoia 1^7 , "^,^,;' , ;' "' u,4re of conquering i.
„aturcl > o>-\"'f' ^. . .\^V^, c-on<iuen..I, anil the n..-
niie h'l^o tt;^':;,;:; t;t!;^j;,t:t';^;o Httio hoat hogu.
. k ^n.nHr V fho 8ea Is rough, the hoat plunge.
down, ihe pool Bi>Ki I . iroadv manv of them,
h>terrupt their ^'^\»tu4es Al.i. . a Ka } ^^^^_
with dim eye and pale f»f '^^^J'.r^^^^ ''^^ ^.^..''..vallowecl
• i-.,...c nMio Sunerioress lierselt, aitei ikimii-, i^""
?^^ Slitv a^lon^'s Bho eould,get. up, and .bsaupearn at
nei (vij,uu> .1 » p^Uali nrio^t heaves great siglis, Ino
f "T ' S the U W it^ i. n Lazarist, n.ad, distracted, rolls
i
inovKssiox Driiixa iiorr \\i:j:k.
407
)eii on her bosom.
■V. 1 luivc nevi'V
I thnul look— onlv
often iVoni rnv bal-
;r Ji ribbon wbU-b I
She was toatbing
her knoos— pcrbai)s
f*t voice if it wart her
ran and bid horrfclf
il tbcro, though, to
r any more when I
•d at "her again, ecni-
:> grei'nl always the
ntl w<' revensjo our-
villanons liumaiv
ire of (•on(iuering is
iquen-(I, and the un-
over lead me to give
t.
the little boat bogms
h, the boat plunges,
rt horse who does not
>, shakes be.velf as if
Our trunks tunildo
re this t-atastropho to
\idy many of them,
in vain against sea-
or having swallowed
up, and (lisai)pears at
ves great sighs, The
bebottori of a grotto
3 of the mouniain of
, mad, distracted, rolls
d him, muttering me-
errupts to lean in the
lie rigging of the ves-
i faculty of looking at
feeling more my own,
i the inost unmerciful,
iicable of uU evils.
Opposite to 1'avta (IVrii), October ITi.
Some one was lately relating to me that in a procession
at (Jiiatemala during holy wvck, the (k-votccs, no lonovr
satisfied with the large wooden Christ wliii-h they prome-
naded, tliought of putting a big, jovial felhtw, wlio was
willing, upon the cross. He was attached to it in such a
way as to make believe that he was crueitied ; his feet ami
his bands having previously been ]iainted searlet. lie had
besides a female f- 'Mid, whoso services he ofiered, and whom
they transformed into the Virgin ]Mary ; both were i)rome-
naded in jn-ocession as far as the church, where tlie drama
of the Passion was acted in nafiird/ihns. The most shock-
ing part of the thing was that the \'irgin was to the knowl-
edge of all the unstress of the one wlio represented Christ!
There is ut Guatemala an analogous custom at the epoeh
of Holy Week, w ith this difference oidy, that Judas is niade
to ai)pear. They generally conlide the part to an Indian
drunkard or idiot. They heap upon him insults and bad
treatment. The fury of the peojile hardly knows any limits,
and he becomes an object of execration ; the poor Judas is
generally assassinated, if not during the festival, at least iu
the following year.
1'ayta. As tar as the sight can extend only plains of
sand. Extraordinary aridity. Not a blade of grass, not a
tree. This grieves the heart — one feels as iu tlie presence
of a cursed land. The sim lightens up and brings out the
sombre tints of the gorges and irregularities of tlie ground.
A remarkable i)henomeuon is, that all the cliffs, irregular iu
their capricfious forms, are level at their summits, and form
on the horizon a perfectly horizontal line. It never rains
here, and the water comes from the interior of the country.
There^ is not a drop of it for ten leagues of our road. It
costs ill town one dollar a load. I'tiud in Bouillet that
I'ayta is in the mic^dle of an arid plain ! What then docs
he call a mountainous country ?
Landed. Alisery and tilth. Five or six streets parallel
to the shore extend for almost a mile. All the streets
are connected with each other by narrow alleys two feet
in width, which run between every two hduses. The
houses are of bamboos, covered with macaw trees. The
bides are covered with lime which tills up the interstices
408
NOTES OF A riASlST.
l,etwcc.n the bamboos. The sun m;vcr iKMU-trutos luto the
uuJys which ooimect the ntrcet^ with cudi utliei".
October 18, 1865.
We al.-.-oach the orart on onrleft; alrfatly "''""™"|-
in eve T heart. It soemB that every one wishes to make
long a time eoncealed ^^ ?" .V»^,™\%" \;7,,omen clothe
ihVJm. "he Miiiltomo Hithe fuhiess ol his joy "iti»
^gScetil nSnil1o,,8,™l a- for the womo,,, they are
"^f^^t^'w^rlir*: Vnow ahout thorn, mv doa.
, 11 tv" m.iicd ho FrcMh oritie, Mr. Fournior, who did
contlSon, they kugh, lay their plans, and «mg.
,«|**»fl13»W**
CALLAO.
409
lOiK'tnitort into the
li otlief.
October 18, 1865.
already the monn-
loiulx on the hori-
of the Miilorrt an-
i-riving. They are
the oars, another
jrrt re(loui)le their
■.I the passengers
psod, reappear one
prightly.
canity tinds a place
wishes to make up
are those who gain
e slovenly creature
eurse the ettects of
las changed into a
led of having for so
under the horrible
, the women clothe
,like a warrior, v.ho
his arms at the nio-
fc. Besides each one
n her companions,
little priest becomes
^agahi. "You will
ss of his joy ; " it is
he women, they are
)Out them, my dear
r. Fournier, who did
fly an arrow at the
(h'arpest. Placed be-
excites him to break
his gown which con-
jmpetence, he is ver^
es himself to reading
iters have taken the
1, and sing.
The laud appears on our right ; we are in the harbour.
IJi'tore us a lorest of masts. The captain at the Itow gives
his ordei-s in a sharp voice. Callao has no wharf. The
vessels anchor at some distance out. We are passing a
sui)erb »Spanish frigate, J^u Xuniancia, then a small
monitor constructeil in I'eru, which has only one cannon,
whose engine gets out of order every time they use it, and
which makes only two miles an hour, but wliich bus not
cost less than two million five liundred thousand francs.
Some Peruvian soldiers (negroes), are sleeping or smoking
on this monstrous shell. They have red iiantaloons juid
blue coats, which furnishes an opportunity to the Abbe to
remark that the I'eruvian army is as well disciplined as
the French.
We cas. anchor. The port i.^ covered with boats which
come for the mails and passengers. The boat of the
captain of the port, maimed by three or four Peruvian
navy ofHcers, in gold, resplendent, pompous, and makers
of trouble, accost us.
The sisteiM arc delighted. They just now see two white
caps in a boat wliich is approaching. "There they are,
there they are," and the handkerchiefs are waving. These
are without doubt some sisters whom they have known in
Europe. They weep for jo}'. Is it a long time since you
have seen them? I asked. " AV"e do not Know them, sir,
but they are h^isters of Charity." I'oor girls! It is the
same with the soldier who sees again the uniform of his
regiment.
The mails are with great trouble got out of the hold.
It is here that they should possess the method and order
of the Yankees! They must wait t^\•o hours and pay
the watermen who have already invaded the boat, in order
to get them out of the hold. We disembark. Callao
presents nothing remarkable. A great many negroes,
Chinese, and Indians, and a great deal of filth. We have
our trunks carried to the railroad station ; the train runs
from Callao to I ma in half an hour.
Four di''ty, indolent old men (these arc the custom-
house offi(!ers) examine the contents of our trunks. On
seeing that I have live, they upset the first and examine
it minutely, for the purpose, a person said to me who was
86
2^0TES OF A PIASIST.
looklnc on, to tiro out ^''>f;." ,",,., ,i,, ,>tluMv. lint
tlK'V l.a.l tljoir tnnU e^or U. 1 -, -l^^;^.^ ^,.,^,, ,,
a fountorloit. , j i,„..o not vot tjot my
Tho train i. about to f';^^^Z'^L:^nn.U-
the railroua car, Tl« «.™g« .-
. The oarnasios ai«-- •■■^y ,; \, kVo a
that is to .ay, ^ ^r'^iz^ti^^^^^:^:^ ^^
eoaoh. Thoro aro h.^^^ ^^^^"^ '^ Uoa«t wc aro not ox-
the roruvian^. aro ''»'''V, '''r. ' i"^-' ' or to tho i-orilons
,,o,o.l to the ru.lonosB «* ^l"")^^" !f 'Tf k noo tVoui this
„oi-hl>ourhooil of ragged oniigrant., ""^^ \;'; ^^^.'^.t^j,, that
InU in Peru the fathoi^ ot tannho. ; "^J ^'^^ '^^^^^
thoir daughters wil not he ^'^l"' ^f;^^ ^.\ ^.^^teol c-onvorsa-
Stato.,to hoar ^rotane flf'^^HoiotK ""
tion. Thoy shut - "r;;;|^^tt ^?;.M,^^^^^^ Every thu,g
negro gives us our trunfe, which a ^^i'^Jr^^^ bur dc.Uars.
I few stops from here, f7;\^^^";:^\tndTov 'istanoe of a
I l»ad almulyiwd ^^j^/; J^^'f, j^stU --^^^^^'^'''.^"y
qnarterota nule). ^j\ l'^*"^^;^!^" ,,,iiaiH. And here is a
turn toward her slioros. . • ^ ^ called by tho
Lima, the oity ot t^»« ^^f f ' f ' ..u^" ^ ^-oin its aprer.v-
old Spanish writoi-s, is tar mm ^ >^ !- \^^.,, ;,, .,!,|eral,
?-:;Cau!i^ cr = "t ^'^^t angle, hut their
FEMA LE DEVn TEES.
411
obtain a .irrntmty
the otlu'iv. Uut
uitl tliL' IVruvian
of tlu'ir c'luitloyt'rt
rJi'ii'iitionsly. An-
iioijiro who nrtsinvs
he liurt given lii"»
vo not yot j;(»t my
uni of the coiintf
itheHi'('n»t««lisi)osol
irols, thi- (lisrurtHion
etjro, tired of war,
^iiig oft" hin countci-
iikf», and T get into
like the European,
I eight seats like a
rd eTassA, and in this
k'ast wc arc not ex-
>i-8,ortotho iiorilons
id I deduec from this
i ahnost certain that
:e those of the United
• ungenteel conversa-
t k'tive until half an
y"here. Everything
that nobody has any-
wenty minutes, and a
ter takes to the hotel,
t sum of f<^"r dollars,
luled (a distance of a
['ost me one dollar, iny
Uai-s. And hero is a
)i emigration does not
is always called by the
iting, from its apiier.i'-
streets are, in general,
ight angles, but their
filthmoss BurpasHes all iniairinati(.n. Piles of dirt, aiiini.d
(an asses, and all sorts <.f nihl.ish fm.ient under the hin-iiin.r
sun, wl.icli disengages from it every sja.ies of eftliu iiniK
ll.e trutlers, instead of being alongside of (he pa.en.ents,
are i.la.-ed in the mi.l.lle of the street, an.l are truly canals,
three and Cnr teet m deMtli, which roll, when thev are not
stagnant, tlieir poisonous waves, and when I sav that rnr>/.
tnnm^ .-ast into these open drains, any one <an un.lerstaiKl
that the air o| the city of the kings does n<.t brint; to mind
tile roses ot rroveiice.
The houses, mostly built in tlio oV ,,anis]i stvle, that is
to say, massive, heavy, and gloomy, are geneiiillV preccde.1
by that part ot the building fronting the street wl.ieh serves
tor tiie domestics. Then comes a court, which vauuelv re-
fills, hut without ].ossessing their elegan.-e, tlie 'I'ati'o of
Andalusia, llie dwelling properly s.Malled is at the bot-
tom ot the court. All this is dusty, dilapidated, and dirty,
i IS idleness, apathy, and wretchedness such as one invari-
uhlv hiids m all tlie old Spanish colonies.
The principal square is surrounded bvanadesor i.orticoes
under which swarm u whole crowd 'of mcr.hants wh(,se
bo(.tli3 are hlled with odds and ends. One side of the
s.|uare is shut in by the <'atliedral, (hearchitecturc of which
being ot the composite style of the seventeenth <-enturv
produces a good enough effect. AVheii 1 entered it for the
hi-st time. It was m the morning ; a few lonely female devotecM
were [.ertorming their devotions. Clothed for the nvKt
part with the traditional veil, which tliev wear over the
head like a shroud, they recalled to me, by their immobility,
those kneeling statues which are found on the tombs of the
mi.ldle ages. The greater part have made a v<.w, some to
dress all m white for a year, some to dress like a Carmelite
some in blue, these generally conseemted to tlie lilessed
Virgin, lliectteetis ticturesque.
The organ is played out of tune, to tlio disgrace of all
religious propriety, and of all the rules of music; notwith-
standing all the efforts of its torturer, it however did not
succeed in breaking the charm which took possession of me
Ihe cliai.els still deserted, the larire jKiinted nooden saints
standing in semi-obscuriry, twisting themselves into the
postures ot their martyrdom, or of the actions representin.^
1*-
y|
I
412
NOTES OF A riASrST.
the ininu-los. The (-1.1 giMu'trH In.M.n I'V.tl.o <lnst, the
whlh without givln,ii rise to ivligious uRHhtaHou, tuvovuc-d
^'tS'Lul'h/r^Ue to T.i.na that the .ath.lral ,c^
l.Mvin.^ a va"ue idea of what a 'Munllo imjiiit I.e. Dm ic
;rSt knn^vhere the pieture was. I ^^-'."I'^f . * jj
this and later have learned that 1 was n<.t mistaken) 1 at
t c'' N rillo' ha.l l.rohahlv heen sold l.y some rapa. o.m
U w lo k„o vin'^ its value, appropriated M to Jmnselt or
t^ it . uiuht have heen exchanired for a new l't*-^;"v, >
1 1. vm- hritrht, one of those ignohle, c-rude .h uhs
i^i'-h the priest; of South An.eriea (are they e..ntined to
South Anieriea ?) are so please.! with.
The eitvof Lima, the seat ot the vioe-ro\ alt} ot iciu,
was^>umied hy Fnmeis I'izarro hi 1535, tWrty-two years
lifter the diseoverv ot Anieru-a. .
" I found in an old nianusevipt the to»«^^'">^\' i;;;" -'' -
S,.he(hde of the most invineihle (iueen, Ma.him .laiu,
L^-un ed to the Marquis Fra.ieis l>izarro, who has heen and
fs governor of the kin^Moms whieh he has diseovered and
of whieh lie ^--yl;;;''^^'^V\^^ro, residing at the
m^nW tli::iSin:;^^X.*,^he veiie ahle Father^l>on
Fma^ido de Luque, dignitary of the compter and lea
v.. M- +1.0 Chnreh of Dorieuse de \ aeante, v.hu'li 18
h, .itinu- the eitv of Panama, have mmle kno^\n tliat
t aS yc) colnpanions, for the purpose of ^^-^f^^
Cl fo t ie goo.1 of our royal ^•r'>^v", >^v<,, lor lix;e ea. .
more or less with permission and authoriza ion jf Jedio
S^ e Avila, our Governor and C^vpta n-Geneml ot the
^ d m hil^nd, ^mdertaken to eonci«er to ^--J-'N. J^ '; ^ J
a.ul people the sea-coast to the south ot ^ho ku. ■>
land^n^he east, the ^^^^^^L^^Z^t ^l^tlZ
;t riiraui a Vrigai^tine, in 4ieh enterprise you spent a
■ ,-J.TU ' ll-'"'*'*" *''*'^^'"'"*''"'""'"'"^*^''
STRI^KTS OF LIMA.
413
l)y the (lust, tl\e
I siiiL' liar i'rt"»H't,
litatioii, fuvouml
ho catlu'drnl i>«w-
(l the sacristan to
1110, lookiii.uat iiK'
tlii'ii (liivc'toil iiiy-
\\\Q a]»)H'araii«t' ot
inijrlit 1k'. l)Ut ho
[ conchulod tVdin
ot mistakon) that
V some raiiatiourt
>d it to himself, or
now i>i(turo, vory
ihlo, oniilo (laul)rt
thoy ooiitiiK'tl to
■c-rovalty of Toru,
15, forty-two years
wing (loouiiiont: —
A'li, Madam Jano,
who has been and
liua ilisoovered and
'o, residinp; at the
lerable Father Don
ehai)ter and head
Vaeanto, v.hich is
1 Diego do A Imago,
made known that
'l»osc of serving us
liuvc, for live vears,
lorization jf Pedro
itain-Gencral of the
)diseovor, topaeity,
of the said main-
:ponse, and that for
caused to l>o made
terpriso you si)eiit a
largo sum of gold jh'sos, and ina<le sai<l discoveries, in which
you have suth'i'od many a.ciih'iits, and ci in iron ted many
jterils on account of tlie (U'sertion of yoiir men, who aluni-
doiu'd you 'lU a (K-sert island, exci'|iting liiirteeii men, who
were not willing to leave you, and that witli the lu-lpof tho
wiiloi'H and jteoplo which ("aptain Don Di»''go iV^ A Imago
otfered yon, passed from tlio said desert itland, ami dis-
e(»veri'd the said lands and provinces of IVrii and tiie city
of Tumhoz, in which expeilition you and your ooinpanions
have spent more than thirty thousand pesos of gold ; and
that with the desire which you have to servo us, you wish to
follow up the siiid eon(|Uest and populating at your expense,
without our ever being obliged to reimburse you the ex-
penses which for th.is j>urp<)Hoyou have made and will make,
except those which in the present article will be granted to
yon, and that you prayed aii<l re(piested me to grant you
tho command of the saiil con([uest, and to grant certain
privileges: 1 ordain that —
Under Captain F. ih' I'izarro, it may bo permitted you
to eontinue for us. and in tlu' name of our royal crown, tiio
said eonquest of discovery and population of the said pro-
vince of rem, as far as the distance of two hundred leagues,
more or less, from tho coast, starting from the place called
hi the Indian tongue Teninipuedo, and which you have
named Santiatro, as far as the village of Chincha.etc. etc.
^^^llowod by ii score of clauses m which Madam .lane
regulates with profuse ])rolixity of style and scruiiulous
accuracy all the details of this curious document.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Lima.
The streets of Lima arc paved. (?) with small spherical
stones, upon which the foot can jiover be placed 'lat ; you
constantly lose your balance, and your foot are bruised be-
tween the inteisticos of the pebbles, which besides are not
made level. The ground is broken, and there are vallevs;
35*
((tgwi«sti«siH iB^Kw»^^^^'^>'■^
tain. I lu'i. tlu ^'^^^ . .„^,,,a „t i„t(TvalH .v nai-
,ow l.ri.k'^'^^ «'i 'Atones. '.'^''^,"'\ Vm „f Tlu. stnrts, hut
tilth iK .iuM-iv .U'i-;t;;-.'- ^^1:1^^^^
as it novel- nmiH, aii.l lla ai " '^;; , ,i,,i<,,oui.-, 1k-
Hi.loH tnvria.ls of .nrat vnltuir., la. a » ^'^^^^^^
,„.,, tlK. stnvts.lon .tWss V; ^j"!^; / Ju m thon.s.lvc.
^^'•JVni'Uo ni.n n.v^j;^l-rnn^^
,uuni.il.alautl.ontu.sot ^ ''\,^ ' .^. ' !/ ,,. U have tlu^ a.l-
tlK.mran.l .ost the ♦'•^^ W;r',^;;;;3,^, two, on ac-c-ountof
The houses are <-r;^'; J,.^'^:;r VVpa.^sh, that is to
the eai-th.iuakes Ihc "•- [ „^ .^. i;,„i. tVet thu-k.
.av.heavy,n.assive,an.l »:'"^^ ' J ,;;^'' /„,, interior eourt,
I.muense eoa.-h gates give ent ncc "» ,, ^^^.^ ^.e
whieh generally han a ^V;!'' ' " ,jVe , o • Moo ish arehi-
awelling at the hottom. lese « .,,,,,^ i„
teeture, elegant ";i\\ '";^^\\1: a ^.^ IvV ami massive
i^:;fi^u;;^r::.tu::a^Sn:t;;;^t;:^ightJheya.^
)„st now in revolution (When »^,;/: "^;;j;"'; ,o hl(.eka<les
room lett. .,i .i „,.<• wliioh firries iiiv trunks —
1 ,rt, .mt nsimn ^"th be '« ', " •i,.'™, , \'^;',;,,,.l. 1 ol.tain
-j»«s«w*****^''^
1
I'OI.ITICM. Ari'A/liS /.V /'/AT.
415
from untlci- voiir
l,y till' " irnH-m tic
,li' aiul Htnki' tliu
(.|^. — it is II IIIOUM-
,11»> of till' HtlVl't.S
ii\tcrvalw l»v mvr-
a'liu* r^^ »' hiiiiii—
of tlif stri'i'ts, l)Ut
. miiisiimtu, vhicli
u'lr niikno\vir, 1»*'-
■aiitl trniiitl, iiniiiic-
w'ViTi- laws wlii<h
v». upon tlu'Uisclvi's
thoir duty woutlor-
to sujr^n-st to the
'.iinortat'um of soiiu'
who luivo thiK ad-
\\H)rk iutrustc'tl to
u two, on account ot
Spanish, tliat is to
^aiv iniir tccttluclc.
r) an interior court,
ho miiltUc, an.l the
on of Moorish anhi-
iihos(iuos i)aintc»l HI
heavy and lOJj'^wive
iirht they arc like a
ugecs from Ec-uador,
)t "0, and from Chili,
>i»ain, who blockades
.tela. There is not a
1 carries my trunks—
jother hotel. I ohtam
ilor for the night.
)t have chosen a more
■rts. , ,
the city. The whole
country has joined llicni. The c;i|.ital aJiMie lias remained
liiitliful to tin nstilutiunal president. I am wronu in
HMviiiir faithful ; it U truer to say that he still occupies it
with all the ti ps which he has concentrated for the pur-
pose of resisting the eiu'my. It sccnis singular to nn
7\inerican that the whole coiinfrv nhould ranm- itself uudi-r
the ri'hel flag, and that nevi'rtheless (uu- city still in the
power of tlu! government should he silllicient to prevent
the triumph of the reliellion. One hattle only, in which
the hitter should he con((Uere(|, would siiHice foi' the rc-
esfahlishmeiit of onler (at least for some tinu'), civil war
being the n(»rmal state of I'ei'U.
i have tried to unravel the tangled skein of political
ntfairs of the present time. This is wiiat 1 understand
about it: The Spanish goverimicnt claimed from I'erii three
rnillions for <lamage.s done to some nativi's. The constitu-
tional presidi'iit acc«'ded, on the consent of the chambers, to
tlu' demands of Spain. The vice-president, Si-fior A\
Canseco, seized this pretext for ac<Mising the government of
Pern of pusillanimity and raised, in the name of the out-
raged national honour, the standard of rev(dt. JIo was
arrested. Si'ciiig that his attempt was not successlul, he
l)roniised the government to leave the country if tlioy
would pay him the arrears of his account. "Agreed," saiil
IVzet to him, who, above all things, wished to get rid of a
<langerons coadjutor. Unco the dollarn were pocketed, Mr.
Canseco pretended to exile himself, disembarked on the
coast to the south, and raised an army.
To raise an army against the government is in Peru, rh
in all the other S[»anish republics, an easy matter. To bo
in power is to draw handsful out of the coHl-rs of the State.
A party triumphs; the cure is ready, "Myself president,"
" you general ;" but as all the soldiers cannot be generals,
and all the generals presidents, the friends of yesterday
become the enennes of to-morrow. "(Jet out of there'." is
the motto of all politicians in general, but of the Peruvians
in particular.
CorriH)tion reigns everywhere. The gf>vernmeiit is a
milch-cow — all nulk her. An officer lately assured me that
the scale of superior officers and generals of I'erii corre-
sponds to an army of eight hundred thousand men ! and
416
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
I
I
!. 1
'■1'
y%
li
einploje Bw-airt, luc e. t-reditors. because
to tro into the htate trcasiuj, looi^ nti^i^ Tl.n ' -.nlnnola
«lu. sneiuls always more than she gams, ihe colonels
reeeiv"£ec hl^llred an<l sixty ¥^^V^J^:t
Z::{^^:U^o powe. ^ey ^in a «.suU.
nMo rovenue in the toUownig manner: Iheu battalion
r'ta;^ . A o^ltll of oavdry Lkc, ho., a .n.all for-
K o'S- ; S hmi«, S aUo that of thjir fo^go, whiol> .V
Piont allow^ him for the to»|"-y "-ho So -
Smoral arrive 1 X)oos a review tako Jilaco ' ih" "="",,
lo V. for the 'amoro,' Irom the h?i*'-"!«'-''lr*'',n,Cl
Sa»tr«e" to "U Uf the Mcicncte tl>o "olo.,* cnro
li
- % ml— Bii >m w>f «W<n.Ty»w i»8*«-'
a;;af«W''^??3'*^^^^^^***'-"
ARROGANCE OF THE MILITARY.
IS in time of war!
(1 the others are
^ successful revo-
If of the country
from it. A revo-
)untry is without
iracy, and tlie^ tirst
prepared. Every
icetini!; what ought
• creditors, hecause
ius. The colonels
rs per month, and
the gratuities in
feneraf whom they
ley gain a consider-
r. Their battalion
in reality only four
ly for six hundred
>able on account of
js here a small for-
nit. The fraud can
peculiarity, that, in
nent are piit out to
)ockets not only the
nr forage, which the
lary horses. Does a
place? The colonel
»e-merchants, and on
regiment fully filled
s general on the fine
his little trade Avith
lot as easy to borrow
es the colonels enroll
need. And this is
confidential soldiers
idian ; they approach
ind, whilst the other
lid places on his head
serter, and carry him
Cuartal.' Recruiting
her way. They send
417
some soldiers into the country, and they seize by force the
poor Indians, tear them from their families, and lead them,
tied, like the beads of a rosary, to a long rope held at each
end by a soldier.
The arrogance of the military is 'nsupiiortable. Tlieir
insolence and their haughtiness are only e(pialled by their
folly. Overwlielmed with debts, they would not find
credit anywhere if they did not now and then take care to
pay something on account to their creditors. This is the
way the thing is managed (it is a Frenchman, a dealer in
military equiimients, who relates it to me): A colonel I
suppose, owes eighty dollars for u pair of ei)aulets He
comes to bring you twenty dollars on account, and buys a
bicorne which is worth thirty dollars, which h^ has placed
to his account. The account always increases, and the
merchant who receives on account does not dare to -vt\me
credit to his customer for fear of losing both the account
and the principal.
A poor French tailor who had given credit to the oflicers
of 1 ezet, at his fall was in for six hundred thousand francs
and was ruined.
A colonel went to a Frenchman to purchase ten thousan<l
francs' worth of furniture on credit. The Frenchman
retased. The colonel said haughtily to him, "Ah ha! do
you take me for one of those "Frencli beijgars or lorei'ni
adventurers? a pitiful sum often thousand francs' I si.end
It for bonbons!" "The greater reason," the ].oor man
humbly replied to liim, "for not giving you cre<lit."
A Bolivian colonel had an account with a Freiuii coft'ee-
house keeper, which had become so large that the latter
was not willing to give him further credit. The colonel
gave his sword to him, and as the sword was worth more
than the sum due, the cofiee-house keeper gave him the
balance in trade. The swoi-d remained a" year at the
cofiee-house keeper's, and us the col -el had no other lie
went to the reviews, without any, wluch did not prevent
him, however, from being as proud as Artabanus
}L ^^' "'^'i^ liowever go'" badly iu Peru, what shall I say
of Jiohvia.' Mhen the liberator IJolivar cut from the
map the territory of each of the nations which ids vic-
torious sword carved out from the captain-generals of
'^■t^-^-li'*^''i'^'^'^'->
I •
1!
^^^ NOTES OF A riAMST.
a nwh Amoriva he urt^kmea to Bolivia, it is true, an
t '"uttl. 1 >rt".f Coliia. ^ She longed for the tongue .^
.It. IVmvian .oa-eoast) which runs into us torntory
earth (the ^ ^^^^^ '" rj^j^i^ i, the cause ot the ^var
and roh» it.ot ^t^ uu^t ^^j ^ual president, Mezarijo,
between l^^^^^^;^^ ^ ."'bi^ r^'unkanl, who hangs,
a Choi.), IS a ^'^ «"°"' ^'^J^; ^t,, A soldier of fortune,
shoots down, 1; 1*'', "^^Xt o^^ >« ^"'"•'^^•^«- "' ^""''-^
"^ :;^S"onrhl:w\>? - axe the una of his iavourUe
aid-de-canip.
Pebc.
^^t"-^' ' ufier? '' they excUtim with terroi. "God pro-
lis vou n,;;it wait until you have 1c«uch1 to »«-,m lK,foro
'"\i:?,r uf l;*Vaih.aa l, ma.le .Jl^twoen two vi.jagc, u^^
°;t!t rii *1f ™S,ri""*r So to^^lla^o/ have
"""".,1 to h« I "Pera L must sain iioxsession ot; them
?' -m, y m- nno vati-a, ha« to'tight against |,re.,u;. «•
lK,e 1,11.-1 tli,™wl'i'-l' arc not rcro.nmen, e,l hy thotr
I he sniaiieHi """tr . , fpiw. l.ll«ilu'^^ of foreisners m
^''i^'ti tl,o Other day in a moment of anger (with more
I said the ; »«; J; Yi • vour desire to see all the foreigners
Sel^^uVCX^'w^s^gratiiied, before fifty yea. you
UNnP.lDLED COimVPTION.
419
'ia, it ift true, an
to give to it any
LVru on the we^t
It, Bolivia felt ill
vanls the sea was
for the tongue of
>s into irs territory
cause of the war
iresident, Mezarijo,
kanl, who hangs,
soldier of fortune,
rracks. He lately
•m of his favourite
Pebc.
, tail," they used to
'oruvians helieve in
) theui about jjublie
, too young." " No
terror. "God pro-
ignorant ; wait until
'ell might they say
rned to swim hefore
)en two villages, in
In Peru they con-
two villages have
very avenue among
tions the doors are
n possession of them
;ht against prejudice,
commended by their
iness of foreigners in
Peruvians go haek-
the swiftness of the
of anger (with more
:o see all the foreigners
lefore fifty yeai-s you
would return to your national costume-— notliintr hut
leathers. *
Tlicir hatred for foreigners is rooted in their heart, in-
luscd nitt) tlieir blood.
There is not a point in the Peruvian character in which
you do not hud the gangrene of venalitv, of ignorance, of
corruption, of sloth, and of boasting, l^lie pai^has of Asia
Mnior have not a more despotic i)ower in tlie midst of
tie eunuchs ot then- harems, and the unfortunate fellahs of
then- fields, than that which, from the highest to the
l<.\vest in the military scale, is exercised by the epauletted
janissaries who govern Peru. The Peruvian government
IS and has always been a military oli<rarchy niore oppres-
sue inore brutal, and more arbitraiy than the autocracy
ot Kussia will ever be. Their good pleasure, tliis is the
law which governs, and every goose, turkey, i.eacock,
cock, capon, or eagle, from the marshal to the lieutenant
wearing a sword, proclaims this law supreme, and rules
like a despot.
The most unbridled corruption in every branch of
government, the most shameless venality amoiio- all .-lasses
everything IS sold, everything is bought. Sloth, isrnorance,
and Jiatretl ot the foreigner, these are the onh" beliefs
protoundly rooted in the lieart of this race, debauched
physically and morally. Sad spectacle! And is this
wliat the Inited States should risk their soldiers, their
navy, their military honour, and their millions for' Xo'
a thousand times no! Take all the Spanish Americas
and examine their governments.
^ XiCAKAouA composed of negroes, Indians, and mulattoes,
IS governed by an ignorant and barbarous clergy, sui>
ported by some imbecile sabres.
(jTatkmala, suttbcated in the blood and the murmurs
winch proceed from an oppressed people, permits itself to bo
organized by the clergy with the obsequiousness of a con-
quered province.
IIoxDURAS and Salvador are supernumerary subalterns,
wlio, as m glooniy dramas, phow themselves when there is
some assassuiatiou or strangling to be committed.
^ig^Rsa mis^"'
420
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
Costa Rica is the only one of these repu .lies that meets
the Hyniimtliy of honest men on aeconnt ot the ettorts wliieh
she is makhiu to enter into the paths ot civihzution.
Ecuador helongs to the elergy and the Hwonl.
Perit has this at least in its favour, that it is not Baii^jm-
nary, and that in its revolutions, exeent the soldiei-s killed
in bittle, history has never registered those bloody proscni.-
lions wliieh sully and dishonour the next day ol every new
government in the neighbourmg reiniblios.
^ Bolivia is governed by a mulatto Indian, ^vjio calls
himself provisional constitutional president, although he lia I
killed, with his own hands, the lawful president, and wU
eontinue to be provisionally eonstitutional ""t^l^»^%"|; "»'f^
death, unless some other assassin m turn kills him, to
occupy provisionally and constitutionally his place.
The Republic of Paraguay is governed by an hereditary
president for life (?)— a republic I ,
^ Tnd the.e are the people who cry out against monarchy,
whilst thev submit to the most frighttul autocracy and
Tec mmod^tc themselves to it because Lope. II.,. their
ac uTty rant, instead of calling himself sultan, calls himself
hereditary p^sident for life. Is this not comical to the last
SoJree' I is absolutely like the bourgeois gentilhomme
S was not a mcrchanttshame on him) but who purchased
merchandise for the purpose of exchanging it with hi.
friends for money.
Midnight, November 3.
Battle of Lima. ^ j. t i nf
Nevertheless what happy moments passed at Lima . Ot
all those to whom I am indebtetl for them, my fnend Du-
thunderine discliarge oi lync enji-niyj, "- — •-- •
Bomewherf, excited all my good French triends, who leaped
tZi their chrirs as much^on account of the music as tor
the souvenirs which it evoked of their country.
Mn Dupeyron receives a letter, "Are there news of the
revolution ?'' I said laughingly to him. " ) es, read.
The letter is from an officer at the camp (the president s).
mutiWiSiimm'^-"
>ul)l)os thfit moots
rtheetfi)rts wViioh
ivilizution.
Hwonl.
\t it is not san";ui-
the soldioi-s killod
<e bloody proscrip-
; day of every now
'S.
Indian, who calls
it, although ho had
prosiilont, and will
al vuitil his natural
cum kills hull, to
f his place,
id by an hereditary
against monarchy,
tful autocracy and
Lopez II., their
sultan, calls himself
t comical to the last
•geois gontilhommo,
) but who purchased
mging it with his
tfidnight, November 3.
lassed at Lima! Of
hem, my friend Du-
ist.
ither. I played the
Poignards.' This
ity, as Berlioz said
1 triends, who leaped
; of the music as for
r country.
re there news of the
" Yes, read."
imp (the president's).
FWIITISa.
421
who assorts that the two armies arc at the distance of a
kilometre fn)ni each other. The tiglit will take place to-
night or to-morrow morning. The letter ended more
jtiously than horoirally: —
"Ireconnnend my soid to God," said the otfittT. Afr.
l)ui»evroii assures mo that this brave man is one of the
least brave that ho knows.
November G, 4 o'clock in t\v morning.
Started up awakened by a noise. Firmin, my factotum,
calls mo. _ " Th' y are fighting, sir," he calls out to mc.
Indeed firing succeeded rapidly iu opposite directions. It
approached. The whole house is aroused. The battle, if
it takes jdace, will be under our windows, for at tlie cor-
ner of our street, that is to say, at the distance of twenty
yards, is the square, or palace of the government and the
numici])ality, which occupies two sides of the square. The
discharge of musketry increases. A cannon shot. Are
these the revolutionary troops? la it the people who have
risen and attempt to hold out in garrison 1 Is it only a
revolutionary division, which shall have made a movement
and placed Pezet between the fires ? AVe are not able to
find out anything. The trtimpets in the distance are ..lound-
ing the charge. It is a division that is entering the city at
a ruuuing gait. The drums and the trumpets are sounding
the charge and they pass like au avalanche before our wiii^
dows. Dupeyron has seen them, and by their white hats
has recognized the revolutionary troops.
The night is magnificent, the silence profound. Xot a
bell is heard, every church is guardcil by a ])icket of sol-
diers, and in each clock tower they have posted men upon
whose fidelity they can rely.
Sharp discharges of musketry. They are fighting on the
square. The govermnent troops have repulsed the column
Avhich we saw go b^ just now. A battery of artillery is
placed under our wmdows. I can no longer resist my de-
sire to see. Cojicealed behind the blinds, t look down into
the street. It is occupied by a compact crowd of soldici-s
of the revolution, horsemen, covered with large red ponchos,
with large round white hats on their heads'; iicll moll and
immovable as statues. All at once a discharge of artillery ;
30
422
yOTKS OF A PIASfST.
cries, oaths, n furious tempest. In the gloom I see a wljole
world of iihantoins, striving in the midst of a deafening' up-
roar, which risos from time to time al)ovo the loud noise of
the i-annon mingled with the rattling discharges of mus-
ket rv.
A squadron of cavalry dehouehes on the square. Ihey
are received with a discharge of musketry. For some
moments I hear very near mo little whistlings, like the
noise of a switch heating the air.
A little like the ostrich, intrenched hehind my hlmds, i
am inqyassiblo in the midst of the melee. Puff! a dull noise
very near me awakens mo to the reality, and warlike pro-
pensities vanish before the instinctive feeling of self-pre-
servation. It is a hall which has lodged in the balcony.
A moment after I risk looking out again. The wounded
are numerous and cover the jtavement.
Who has won? Who has lost? No one will ever under-
Btand our suspense. A bell 11 the tocsin is ringing. The
church has fallen into the hands of the rebels, who, per-
liips, arc so no longer at this time, the way in which things
go in this unfortunate country.
The shrieks and tumu it under our windows arc horrible.
It is a hand-to-hand fight. The clashing of swords and the
cries of those Avho fall are only heard : " Jesus, Maria,
Dies 1" Dupeyron prepares down stairs in the apothecary's
Bhop charpie, mattresses, etc., for it is probable that they
will open or force the door in a few moments. The only
fear which we have at this time, besides accidents, spent
balls, or stray bombs, is that Pezct is not victorious, and
does not return to Lima to dislodge the besieging column.
The troops at the palace behave iTravely. They have not
yielded an inch. It really requires heroism to fight with-
out a flair, without the word of command — blindly ; for,
like ourselves, they do not know if Tezet is concpicred, or
if they are fighting sixty thousand men or a column.
Six o'clock.
The battle continues. The balls fly and are flattened on
a salient part of the wall alongside of the house. The
children are taken from the rooms which arc fronting the
street, and the whole household— negroes, luulattoes, cholos
nV/.lT-v. AD SPECTACLE!
428
nom I sec a whole
of 11 (loiitViiin^ ui>-
tlio loud noise of
lisi-liarges of uius-
tho square. They
ketry. For some
•luHitVmgs, like the
cluiid my blinds, I
Puft'! ii dull noise
', and warlike pro-
feeling of self-pre-
yed in the baloony.
lin. The wounded
ne will ever under-
u is ringing. The
le rebels, who, per-
'uy in whieh things
udows arc horrible.
?of swords and the
d : " Jesus, Maria,
in the apothecary's
probable that they
oments. The only
lea accidents, spent
not victorious, and
e besieging colunui.
ly. They "have not
roisni to fight with-
iiand — blindly ; for,
.'zet is conquered, or
1 or a cohunn.
Six o'clock.
and arc flattened on
of the house. The
ich arc fronting the
es, niulattoes, cholos
mcludcd— seek shelter in the ]iarlour winch i < at the rear
ot the house. The cries of triumph arc (h-awiiig near ; tJie
discharge ot mu •ketry cejuses. 1 j.lace mysch' attain in the
balcony, stUl, like tlie ostrich, beliind my blind,;, and I
see a strange, charming, indescribable sight. It is at tlie
same time a fairy divaui and a nightinare. A band of
Judian Tiiusieians blowing on horns a sort of wiva"e flourish
(ompof-ed of four low notes whicli always folTow in the
name order, advance running; Jjchind it a long file of
lu( lan soldiers in red pantaloons and round hats like a
turban. They are the cholos of Cauzcco. They go by like
an avalanche without any impediment, in the midst of
frantic acclamations from a crowd of amateur cholos on
horseback, who encumber the pavements, and ai.pear dis-
posed to lend them a helping hand.
Ten minutes of silence, disturbed at great intervals with
single musket shots.
Half-past six o'clock.
Hang! A cannon shot. Bang, bang— piff, putt". The
battle has recommenced most beautiiVdly.
The brave government troojis have commenced fighting
again. The cannonade is redoubled. Our street is a field
of battle. The tocsin sounds. The sun rises. I ijo again
to take my position behind my blinds. Two cannons are
levelled before our door against the palace. The brave
troops will not yield. What a sad spectacle! A poor
cholo stands in a doorway, leaning uj^on his gun ; he has
around him a sea of blood ; his wound must be serious, for
the blood continues to flow and the pool to enlarge. " O
charite Chretienne ! ou etes vous et ose t'on bien invoquer
Bieu en faisant la guerre V (0 Christian charity ! where
art thou, and do wc indeed dare to invoke God in makiii"-
war?) *
I can see half of the square through the opening of our
street, Avhich opens into the middle of it before the gate of
the palace. There is a heap of slain. The revolutionists arc
in ambusli behind, and are firing. They liave got on top
of the roof of the Hotel Alaurin, and are shooting. A
soldier whose cartridges have given out spies the dead
body on the pavement opposite; he searches him after
"i
•|
•■/■;^mm!ff0^M'¥:-''Xf^'i''i'Kssm%>'M)XfmiV'^<<mivs"''
424
A'OjTA'.s- or a riAMST.
huviiM' fillocl hi'* nirtri.lgi-box. A littlo .trainni (ni<ra-
mufHiT), who «'OineH iVom the Bc-une of uftion (tlic tyiu- ut
till! u'aiuin is ioiuul ovi'ii ainotiL' tlic chokw ot 1 itu), walks
arouml tho .U'a.l body and looks at the rol.hu.K oi'cratu.n.
AttenvanU, hoiug Hatislioa that no Ihtsoii sirs limi, lo
appi-oachfs the eorpso, an<l, nn(Ur i-retext ot looku.g at the
wound— a nuiHket wound in the toivhead— takes olt its
cape, and I nee him quietly put it into his poeket, e.-vin,t;
out at the name time, "Vive la revolueion 1 and go skip-
ping ott". 1 1 • 1
iMie firing is against the i)alaee; a breaeh is opened.
Thev nevertheless ^1 ill defend themselves. At a distan«-e
we see troops whii'h are advaneing. It u a revolutionary
division, who have been niaivhing for e even hc.urs an.
who bave sueeeec'-d in turning Tezet s riirht. At the hea.l
uiairb the bugles and drums; almost all are m unitorm;
but the u'-eater part have no shoes. All wear a piece ot
white cloth on the kepi, a rallying sign, so as not b) be
mistaken for the government troops whose nnitorin is tbe
same All are Indians, well made, but small, tbe identical
type of tbe Egyptians. Many of them are mounted on
asies, and accompany the drums on a sort ot cymbal. 1 hey
all pass on to the wpiare, but, as the cannon ot tbe palace
enlilades the whole street, they aiv ranged in two tiles,
which occinw tbe i)avcment, two men abreast, ibe com-
bat begins again more fiercely than ever— as soon as tbo
fresb troo|.3 'debouche on the scpiare. All at once a general,
accompanied by an escort of black cuirassiei-s-donblv
black, for they are negroes, and their rmirass is ot black
iron, announces that tbe revolution has tnmnpbcd. _
Tlien as if by enchantment, ull the windows, balconies,
dormer-windows, the roofs, and the doors are tilled by tbe
curious. They are nevertheless still fighting at tbe palace.
Tbe cannon is all tbe time thundering. A ball has just
flattened itself above my head. I keep it as fi relic.
They be<>-in to carry off tbe wounded. An unfortunate
Boldiei-, wlwse foot has been bruised by a bullet, dmga him-
se.x painfully along on all fours to get out of the fray. Ue
leaves a long train of blood after him. So far they have
carried all the wounded to the military field liospitals, but
at this moment somebody knocks, and leaning over the bal-
Tin: loon i>y/X(! max.
425
tlo train'ni (ra<ra-
Ctioll (tlu' \\]H' of
irt of IVni), walkrt
rohbiiij; oin'ration.
rsoll rttTH liiin, lio
t of looking at the
L'atl — takes oii* its*
his pocket, cryiiit;
)!< 1" ami go skip-
breach is opened.
es. At a distance
13 a revolutionary
eleven hours, and
iirht. At the head
nil are in uniform;
Ml wear a i>iec-e of
rn, so as not to he
lose uniform is the
small, the identical
n are mounted on
•t of cyndml. They
mou of the i)alaco
nged in two tiles,
abreast. The corn-
el' — as soon as the
11 at once a general,
cuirassiera — doubly
cuirass is of black
triumphed,
windows, balconies,
ors are tilled by the
hting at the palace.
r. A ball has just
it as iK relic,
d. An unfortunate
a bullet, dmg3 him-
»ut of the fray. He
1. So far they have
field hospitals, but
eauing over the bal-
cony, I sec three Indian soldiers seriously woundt'd, which
they are carrying on woolen iijaiikcts'lu-ld at the c(>r-
ncrs bv four assistants. The interior court is sipiare, and
from tlie balcony, which at the first story surrounds it,(»ur
eves look down u|iou a hcart-n-nding spectacle. Of the
tiu'ce Indians, one has his two thighs pii'rccd by a hall.
Ilewill recover from it. The second, a very young Indian,
has received two musket wounds in the abdomen ; he suf-
fers horribly and utters groans. A iihotographcr, one of our
friends, a I'arisian Joker, one of those imp' >us miscreants
who believes in nothing, has never ceasi'd boasting about
mn-sing and ibiidling the wounded, and particularly this
poor dying man; he gently scolds him, and «'alls (»ut to
him, itlacing himself at a carry arms, " Soldado I'eriiano
Valientol" the only Spanish words vhich the cholo under-
stands. "Si! Si" (yi'fi, yes), said the latter trying proudly
to stand up again, "Soldado valientol" and vaguely rolling
his eyes, already dimmed by the aiijiroach of death, he
soothes for an instant his pains hi a sentiment of national
l»ri(le.
The third has a broken leg. They are all lying on the
straw, which has been spread all over the court' in anticipa-
tion of tlie wounded.
Dupeyron, a brave and worthy soul, liis assistant, the
whole household, the women (need I say it, for charity is
she not fenunine?) are everywhere. The unfortui'iate
creatures from whom they extract the balls suffer with a
stoicism only to be found among the Indians. They follow
with their eyes the movments of the doctor, and endeavour
to learn from his expression the gravity of their w*)unds.
From time to time they heave a sigh and murmur these
touching words, which, in tlieir language, would exi)ress
" Ah ! little father, I love thee" (tay-tay nura to quiero).
The Indian wounded in the abdoiwen is' dead. The court
is so full that they have already had to use liis body as a
pillow for the new comeiu " Go and get some of the fathers
at St. Domingo," said Dupeyron in the ear of a cholo, who
was consoling liis wounde<l friend, which is the same as
saying that there are many dying.
3t)*
I . Kif.>i';'H»^S^'*».'i
420
^■OTES OF A riAMST.
made the- ivinark thai all tl.f.o thingn (lun.<.t Leluni; t.
tl vaiKiuislK'd but to till' untioii, iind tliiit it was iit kw
Huportl.iourt to a.-stroy it. He ,mi.l lor Ins j;<m..1 sense in t i
ini.lst of tlie brutal intoxieation, tor Ins ofheer eut olt In
10 (Vcl.)ck A.M.
A vomiii In.lian,wliO received a ball in his left breast, is
dviii'--. I'stoi. a monk in the i-assajre belore the .loor and
,;,ake bin, eon.e in. S.iuattinfT on the ;-n'W he e..ntesses
the dvin.-- man in the Indian .haleet. An otheer has been
shot thronilh the head. He died u. a fexy nnnutes
The palace was taken, altir the besiegi'i-s had set it
on tire The unfortunate Ci-ladorcs have surreixlered. i
need not sav (O Vci-le'.) that once inside, tlu" eon(,ueroi-8
(•,.nnnence<rbv massacring the vanciuisiied, then m sacking
evervthmg. The library, the mirrors, the lurniture, everv-
thin- has lH...n broken an.l burned. A soldier timidly
made the remark that all these things^did n<.t belong to
" 111 li'UHC
he
^. ,„. Im
iiaiuVwit). one blow of his sword.
The terrace of the palace is covered with the dea<l. > K>m
our house we can distinguish the uniforius ot the corpsen.
Colonel I'amarra was assassn.ated aiter he had •^"l" ;';;,'
as also the eomii.andant ot; the Celadores, the mtendant,
.111(1 man V other suiierior oitic^M's.
* it i not one division, but the whole arniy ot ( ausoeo,
which has e.derod Lima. They have deceived the a g -
H -e of Fe/A-t, have turned his right and have ca>tered
! ing Lim behind them, when he was tlnnkmghe had
hem m his front, (iomex. Sanchez has saved ninsel ; \m
in to come and attack and dish.dge the reyoli.tioiusts.
This ni-ht's battle is then only the prelude ot the tragedy
l>07..t has ten thousand fresh'troops and lorty-six cannons
of iarei calibre. As soon as he shall discover that !.nna
has im-endered an.l that the revolutionists are behin.l him,
ilo will attack the city. Generals l^ilta and T^ado scour
the streets with numerous escorts ot cava 1-3. llu} me
T dia s oftic^ei-s, negroes, with white ponchos with wide
( s of rc.l, violet, and black, l)lue and green, ^-^-^^^^
a eol'^v.rs, arms of all kinds, from the ance to the «int-
loek i.istol The ^fonteneros have muskets and make a
^^l•y tine appearance, covered to the thighs with the poncho,
sciiEAAfs OF riiK wofrxrum.
427
10 o'cUwk A.M.
1 1 liirt U'l't bivnst, is
H fore the door iui<l
H.niW 111' COlltl'SSOrt
All otHivr luiH bt'on
■w niiiiiiti'?*.
su'gi'rs liinl Hi't it
vc HunriitU'ri'd. I
ido, the coiHiiU'rors
it'd, tlii'ii in Slicking
lie i'urnituiv, cvorv-
A soldier timidly
H did not bc'lonu; to
that it was iit least
lis good sense in the
is ofKeer cut oil' his
ith the dead. Froni
"onus of the eorjises.
he had snrrendered,
ores, the intendant,
le army of Canseco,
; deceived the vigi-
t and liavc entered,
,-jis thinking he liad
,A saved himself; his
ezet, and will decide
f{i the revolutionists,
c^lude of the tragedy,
ind forty-six cannons
1 discover that !.ima
nists are behind him,
ilta and I'rado scour
■ c-avalry. Thiy are
! ponchos with wide
id green, etaialards of
he lance to the Hint-
nuskets and make a
ighs with the poncho.
large hats with wliito bands and a sort of swivel (^tromblon)
on die thigh.
They are placnig jijatrwrns of calvary twenty |(uc»>s apart
tlii-ough the pruic"nial streets. All tlie cinin'hcs arc riiig-
intr the tocsin. It is evident that the vietorloiis troops are
expccting,aKd.iotwitlioiitalarni,t()I)cattackedby (hcarmv
of I'ezet. A thousand liorscnicii pass at a gallop like n
whirhvitid. It is fantastic, niarvclldiis, iiniicard of, savairc
They are the negro ciiirassici-s, with dirty faces, tluir imi-
forms gray with dust, a lari;e sort of swivel across (heir
sadilles. Lancers witli vio)et streamers. Chasseurs on
horseback, then the Moiiteiieros with scarlet poiuhos, apple
peeii, nky blue ; all iheso yeUiug, rushing aloiiir, brandisji-
iiig their swords, with the stamping of ilic horses, ci,-.
The screams of our iioor wounded becr.-jiM jlcafeniiig,
theiv; are already twenty-nii-e of them, and thev are con-
stantly bringing more in. The c(.rpses caniK.t remain here
the whole night. The woun<ls are gangrenous, and the
court being nn-ored with glass all' the emanations for
want of air rise into our chambers. The odour of the
blood is already sickcuiiii;.
The wholi- army of Cauzoco defiles. After the regular
cavalry follow the free scpiadrons of Moiiteiiero.-.''^ A
multitude of larire given, yellow, and blue Ihiirs ; then a
regiment of Indians '• in bail cloth," the unitorm has a
singular effect. Old Polish bonnets of the empire, of can-
vas, also grayish-white. The music of this rei;imcut
consists of little tin flutes, which play a very (luiek I'Tivthm
in a minor key, at a (piick-step wit'h a bass-ilnini accom-
pauimeut. Another regiment of Indians, musical instru-
ments of copper — barbarous, fantastic uniforms, sirms the
same. A scpiadroii of Indians irregularlv armed with
lances, long Hint muskets, some brandislimg large axes.
Their features make one shiver to look at them. Xothiiii'-
more truly savage than all these tattered wretches, the
whole in coloured rags. . Behind comes a squadron of
anned ravoiias, wives of the Indian soldiers, who follow
their husbands everywhere and ride astride ; one of them
has a parrot solemnly seati-d on her shoulder. Xone of the
soldiers wear shoes, nothing but sandals.
AVe would like to send our wounded to the hospital, but
i
i
'df
428
yOTES OF A I'lAMST,
Low niv wo t.. tn.ns,.<.rt tl.o.n? Dunoyron .s ni Mi^spa.r.
s u uf il.o w<..M..ls unless the \Ju are cxtnu-to.l w,ll
W n nl::?!.!, »n.l al.uost all will- booonu. ^aHjcn-nu.^.
At last a iMvurhinandur n..l ..,,0 IVnmu.. has ..tU'i..
nssi u ) has a.MHva to th..l u niuk«, which is hanu'ssc;.! t..
rcart am Iw. ula.H. ..pon it „„ a straw h.<l th.v. ot the
wca^Ur ln,i.ssil.K.olin.liny>pholeon
,,owa of looke-r. ..n, ..t Ka}.ers, o hemic ho' . ^n • m.
struttin- in the streets in tl.e nu.lst <.t a eo U,^. t tiKiu s
t!r i.ion wiling to assist us in carryiP .'k- .uialea a.
liir as the eart!
'"' : ,;, oa, Kn.tl.nu-n,what do vou teaeh m your e..nventB
fln.lV.reaeh To y..ur hrothersV The l-reeepts ot the gospel
V- U' y > vrietise, should they he <litterent roiu those
v-Viel. maki luention of a very little virtue which is uu-
^X;;J Fa;'inii!^m-ts, who .... fonn^^^^y tlu^re,
a.sUe.l us witli a .levotion which sinuilates the Chnstiau
charitv iovL^otteii here. One, an uuiuisitive passer b>,
^WWely wished to enter the --;t <>t; tl.e ,^iar.uac^y o
look nearer at the pile of corpses. " (So lu, _ 1 saul to him,
i'butoncon.lition that you work and assist 1.1 carrying ot
the dea.l ho.lies." " A easo 1111 toina va por un negm.' He
ai swe el me, casting on me a withering look ot oftende.
r. ity. "Ah ha! 'it is true then that the too trciuent
em, act, the constant manipulation,, the daily eommerc^
^vith the most beautiful things en.ls uj r^-rlVfJ-'S^^JII'^^ttl-
I0118 to their greatness and their beauties. I hese nu i tU
wa take the communion Hfty-two times yearly, have hve
ol six hnndred masses said, follow in all the processions,
and yet do not undei-staud the gospel.
rUE ASGEL OF LlIAlilTY.
420
roil ir* ill iU'Hi>air.
ire *'Xtriu'ti'<l will
voiiu' u;iiii.t:i"«'i"»'"*'
viiUi luif* otU'i'i'tl ti)
I'll is liiinii'ssi'd t<»
V 1k'<1 tliivi- of tho
ok' ol'tlu' iiiiiiioiiso
cj H»)' '.*. \vlio iiro
CO t( s< t" tVioiuls,
i. 11 lUiitk'tl iw
■h in your foiiventri
(•(•lits of the gospel
itlereiit from those
kirtue whifii \^ uu-
> fortunately there,
ihites the Christian
liiisitive passer hy,
of the i>hanna«y to
in," 1 said to him,
ssist in carrying; out
ii por ini !iegro'^" he
n»g look of otteiuled
lilt the too fre(iuent
the dail;y^ comnieree
1 rendermg you eal-
ies." These nici; fel-
lus yearly, have five
I ulf the proeessioiis,
CIIAl'TEU XXVIII.
Hnlf-pnst hIx o'clnck P. M.
(Jo.MKZ Santiikz, the minister, has t'scniK'd, it is not
known iio-.v, from the troops who have taken the palace
wlicre he conmianded njt to the last monii-nt. lie i-n-
trenclu'd himself with a few battalions in the little fort of
Santa Catalina at the extremity of the eity, and has held
his ground since this morning against the army of Cansfco.
A summons to yic-ld has heeir sent him; he replied, ho
would sooner die than surrender. Tiie hearer of the flag
of truce lias retin-ned to say on the part of the hesiegeiQ
that they would give no quarter to him If he did not sur-
render at discretion before sinisi't. He has airain refused.
They continue to bring in the wounded to us. Tho
cart man has made six journeys, and the last of our
wounded liave Just gone. The ckad are carried off in a
species of open colHn. The tk)or is impregnated with blood;
after having aired it as nmeh as possible we cover it with
bran, but the emell of the blood is still strong, and still
more that of tlie eold sweat of the dying.
A Lima lady, a neighbour, arrived sit tlie pharmacy nt
six o'cloek this morning to take care of the sick. Vor
twelve hours slie has taken no nourishment, no repose;
her white hands are stained with tlie blood of all these
horrible wounds. She has given the most svmpatlietic
attention, and is everywhere like the angel of charity.
The priests are missing this mornin<r, many of the un-
fortunate creatures are at the jjoint of death. Shu was
kneeling beside them and telling them everything which
might console and ameliorate their anguish. '■'■Ax tayta,
tayta" (little mother), "am I dying?'* "Yes, my son,"
replied the young girl, "and as thou art a brave soldier,
the good God, his Son, and the Holy Virgin are awaiting
thee."
"Ay, tayta! To behold them I must confess to a priest?"
ii
!
r
430
yOTES OF A FIANI'^T.
"'ii the dear 'H,,.o ^T^ ^^^^> ^ ^^'
which -ho !»<"• «>''',' -Jv ,1 1 rtkin" t 10 siKU i.ftlio
„o.kU, to your p.ni;uU>,-, to J'" 2ly not I who .«ouia
t"'"-'!' «'""'• Ko,on,l» 7, 1985.
city (luriiig the past I'^g^^t- <.^^,,,,eo. The result of
lie hu. Boivt ifsJ^ZZ 0.]Uo has boon pUagod
their r.roeeoauigs is not ivno^vn. ,. -^ surrendered.
Tnd sacked by the ^f^^^^^^^^^^^o open all the
My piano had a na ow^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^,1 ^^ taken
"Z^t^^^^ji^ On the
, [he tray! The dead ^''^''''Z'l'^^^^
cathedml walls he nianyhun^^^^^^^^^ ^^ -^ ^, ,,,1
the combat, ^^ad boon collected m he ti^^^ ^.^^^^^ ^^
spectacle, to which the one. <^[ ^^^^ ^^^..^e not returned
?^;^1^lKi^^o;S:^.ongth^
slain, add fresh l^"f «^- , ^^ . ^^,^ ^ead with'n the palace
aJi^hSr roS,^ighbou.,acha™h,gyou,,g
ANOTIIKR liATTLE mODABLE.
431
just toll tlicc, and
ids, thou \vilt rfce
■ over at the car of
n act of contrition
ovd i>y word ; thon
iug tiic wign of the
rl, to run and carry
Tht to cling to vonr
,-onarf, and to bnrn
ly not I who wonld
ling a doctor in the-
lanUi Domingo, you
oir acience will over
November 7, 1865.
vet aivfrendorod, and
'did not attack the
izeco. The result of
ao has l)oen pillaged
s after it surrendered.
lul broke open all the
Use, have forced the
s, etc.
[t was at the custom-
md not had it taken
ice to-day.
ii-e immense. Un tne
noving the vestiges of
there still. On the
corpses, which, durmg
. church. It is a sad
women, who eome to
ivho have not returned
long the heaps ot the
dead withui the palace
3urs, a charming yomig
girl of twenty-two, remarkable for lier beauty, was killed
yesterday by a nuisket-ball in her chest, at the moment
when, like ourselves, urged bv curiosity, she sought to look
into tlie street through tlie blinds of her balcony. One of
the proprietors of the Hotel Maui-in has had both legs car-
ried away by a ball.
1'lie Montonoros continue to pass hy in squadrons the
musket or axe in their tist. Some of them have the lance,
to which is attached a lai-ge green standard, which, soon
from afar, floating on the wind, has a charming effect in the
iiudst of all the brilliant colours of the ponclios.
6 o'clock P. M.
It is probable that we arc about to liave aoain another
battle?. General I'ezet is a league from the citv. Xotwith-
standing the desertion of one^ squadron of cavalry, which
has gone over to the enemy, his army is still sufficient to
dispute the victory with them. Santa Catalina has not yet
capitulated. The i)0[tulace are crowdin<>; in the streets
which lie near the fort. The commander of Santa Catalina,
and he is riglit, above all, fears lest Ids garrison and him-
self should bo massacred if he cai»ituhites. The maijazine
of the arsenal contains enough powder to blow do\vn the
city if the i)eople set fire to it. Our position is horrible.
We have succeeded, with great trouble, in [.rocuring some
bread. I^reservos, sardines, pies, are a great relief. Forcrnos
IS installed in the kitchei, and makes us delicious fVied
potatoes, which bring to mind those of the 'l)arriere de
Clichy,' when at boarding-school I treated the whole of my
schoolmates with my savings (I was then the millionaire
m virtue of being the little American).
One of our neighbours, who found himself at Chorillos,
without being able to ^at l)ack to Lima, has made the whole
journey on foot, and met on the road a division of I'ezet
advancing on Callao.
Tlniigs are taking decidedly an alarminu; turn. Gomez
Sanchez has succeeded in rejoining Pezet, aiid has imj.arted
to him a little of Ids warlike ai-dour. It a])pears that as
soon as he saw that the city would succumb, he left dis-
guised on horseback, and arrived before noon at the quarters-
general of the president. He left in command General
S I
f .
ii
4
if
s 1
r
^g2 NOTES OF A PIASIST.
hole the view extends over '''"^Xv^V;/ tt f- r^^^^
balustrade and "em ot the t™ ''y- „ .,.„ ,„■,„.
,0 I allow n'J^'lf !''^*:T ™,l^l': nd^^ruUs podtion
iites of en .nuig Iran *« jV-f '; ™ '„„ the sight.
Jd'r «nu,..l.:oa. Tin have not yet «.n.,ed o« .n.n;y
d^d boilies, whu'h "e -V 'g on t e icnaec ^^^^^b^^^
honrlna houses, wLero thej «„,' hem They are bring-
The eathednd t""™'" ^ ^"1' 7,' i" etery. A singular
ina them down to lake them to ''° 'J'V EfwA, brSther
eirTsode wa, that ^'^J^^^l^^VfVm the
SS^Sil-L^b oXrt?ms"„°„ iteeting. Sad ett'eets
of civil warl , , , ^ m
10 o'clock P.M.
It is just announced touBthat^Pj^^va.^^-^
the fauboum of Santa ^^^^^^X^^^ PoHco, and,
ricaded tV>r the nijrht. ^^^^^ ^ j^^ ^o the Monteneros,
the streets bclongmg duunff i le m " ^^^^^^^^
it is probahle that they w 11 P\\3jr, rifled If they
Alreally last night a jewo^^ ^hop -as ^^ ^
iisjht to-ni^ht they yill f;:,,*; ^^.%' Vat the first alarm I
rU^rL'S'lXr"e.°"i>u;:;y-ron ha. loaaod two
J
FORT CATAUXA SURnFXDERED.
433
ravrison sweai' to
".<)k -lie oath, and
10 whole battalion
AVhat is horrible
cd we have seen,
ressod, were revo-
lt. Two doctors
have assured nie
^•hioh corroborates
' conquerors killed
the turret of the
ty, and I perfectly
^r of the fort. The
riddled with balls ;
two or three luin-
d perilous position
upon the sight,
ogether already ex-
et carried oif many
rraccs of the neigh-
d as sharp-shooters.
1. They are bring-
netery. A singular
ih brigade, brother
ionists. When the
aptured by the con-
iresident. The two
neeting. Sad effects
10 o'clock P.M.
'.et advances towards
ack it. AVe are bar-
aiger any police, and,
it to the Alonteneros,
some of the houses,
was rifled. If they
ty. Fortunately the
,1 at the first alarm I
cyron has loaded two
revolvers. Forguos has a rifle which fiivs six times, and
another of our guests a iiockct pistol. Jt is not much', but
still sufficient to keep in respect evil doers duriiiL'- the time
ni'cessiiry^ for the •women and children to escape i»y tlio
roofs, which, as I liave said, are flat, and separated from
each other by a Httlo wall which can easilv be crossed. In
the mean while I try to sleep and put the bar of iron across
the door.
Octohpf 8, 10 o'clofk A.M.
Fort Santa Catalina purrendcred last evening, but IVzet
lias retaken Callao and is marching on l.ima,Vrom wliich
he is only three miles off. They huvo shot fifty (jf the pil-
lagers of Callao.
2J oVIock.
From the tin-rct the avnvUgnrdc of Pozet is seen udvni-
cmg towards the city. The artillery and ea\alrv are in
front. The remainder are lost in the horizon in a^-loud of
dust.
The dock tower of the cathedral, behind our house,
swarms with soldiers posted there as shar])-shootei-s. At
the end of c.ir street, which opens on the bridge of Rinial
by winch Pczet i)roposes entering the city, they are erectino^
batteries. , *=
What will become of us?
The revolutionists have bosldos anned the populace
who are m their favour. There is nothing for me to do if
I am able to leave the house, but to jjo and demand i/ro-
tection at the American legation, tnfortunately the fire
of the enemy's cannon enfilades our street, and it is more
than doubtful if we could get there without bein<>- struck
I have some details respecting the fliglit of Gomez San-
chez; at half-past eight o'clock in the morning, when he
saw that the jjalace could not liold out, he escaped bv the
roofs with ten true and devoted followers (devoted ? as if
there could be such in a country where treason is a conse-
crated means of making a fbrtune), they succeeded in get-
ting down into a little street where they found liorses but
some revolutionary soldiei-s discovered thein, and thirty
horsemen put themselves in pursuit of them. Gomez
it
'1
434
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
SanehcT! and his suite betook themselves to the steep moun-
tain roads; it was %' ><r for life, it was a wild mad race.
The revolutionists, better mounted than they, fiained on
them slowly, and the distance between them sensibly di-
minished. Une of the horses of the fugitives gave out,
his rider was killed. The race contiimed. The balls
whistled around the nnnister. "Surrender." cried out the
pursuers to him, and he answered them by sticking his
sv)urs deeper hito hi-: horse's ilauks. A ball struck the oth-
cer near him. The unlucky one tumbled into the dust.
The soldiers began to nuirmur. "Sm-render yourselves,"
said Sanchez to them ; " if you arc too cowardly to strive tor
liberty, I will '.rrive at the president's camp or I will be
idain." '
Six soldiers stopped, and putting their handkercbiets at
the end of their sword, they gave the signal that they sur-
rendered. In the mean time Gomez took the lead, and
after a breathless race of two hours arrived at an ovavt-
poste of I'ezet's hoi-semen. Without taking time to rest
he divided them into two comi)anies, and ret nrneil with one
of them on his tracks, whilst the other, by a circuit, was to
fall on the rear of the pursuing horsemen, lie met the
band ; a fight took place. Taken between the iifteen lan-
cers of the'minister, and the fifteen others, who cut off their
retreat, they were obliged to surrender at discretion, as well
as the six deserters, who one hour before had abandoned
the minister.
Ijccidallll this little lawyer is in soul a hero, in body a dcvd
(unfinished).
December 13, 1865.
My fears arc realized on the suljject of the locality, which
the partial giving way of the theatre has forced me to
choose, in orl^ler to continue the series of my concerts which
hnvc been interrupted. It was in fact doubtful if the
'society of Lima would not be frightened at the idea of
enterii.g into the hall and gardens of Otaiza, the reruvian
Afabide, where every Sunday the tapadas (veiled women)
and their "amigas" had their rendezvous, to give them-
selves up to the stormy 'Zarnaenccas' and other indigenous
'i ** i ! mtiUmmmi^imm
CONCERT AT OTAIZA.
435
^ the steep moiin-
i wild nuul nice.
tlu'V, fjiiinod on
Hicin Heiisibly di-
gitivos guve out,
lued. The bulKs
er." cried out the
I by sticking his
ill struck the otH-
jd into the dust,
luler yourselves,"
■ardly to strive for
.•amp or I will be
handkerchiefs at
nal that they sur-
)ok the load, and
ived at an ovant-
king time to rest
retnrneil with one
y a circuit, was to
jon. lie met the
•en the lifteon lan-
S who cut otf their
discretion, as well
ire had abandoned
ero, in body a devil
December 13, 1865.
the locality, which
has forced me to
my concerts which
•t doubtful if the
ed at the idea of
:aiza, the Peruvian
as (veiled women)
r>u8, to give them-
i other indigenous
dances, which, altliough very [licturosfiue, are not such as
l)rudont mothei-s permit their daughters to indultre in.
In the face of this difKculty tjiere was oidy one means
of overi^oming it ; raise the price of the tickets so hiirh as
to be only within tlie reach of those privileged bv fortune.
I put them^ up to two dollars. It remains now 'to boll
the cat.' TJie ladies were al'raid of compromising thc^m-
selves, no one was willin«r to be the first, althouuh they
were all dying with curiosity to j)enetratc into the'proiime
sanctuary al)out which ^ood and evil tona;ues had l)een
talking for a very long time. The thick groves, tlie dark
alleys, the kiosks, spoke ])owerfully to the imagination,
but, then, what would jieople say?
One of my friends i)ersuade(l liis sisters (o sacrifice
themselves. The rimiour spread that (leneral and
liis family liad taken twenty seats. In four hours the
hall was full. The first concert was not finished before
the seats were already taken for a second.
Besides 'Otaiza,' the proi>rietor, who has been to Paris,
where ho lias assiduously visited for two vears the
Mabille Gardens, had done things like a lord. The
gardens were lighted a giorno. Tlie floor and alleys had
been watered with eau de Cologne, and every ladv received
on entering the hall an enorinous bouquet of Voses and
magnolias.
At each of my concerts 'Eanjo,' 'Murmures Eoliens,'
'Charmes du Foyer,' 'Ojos Criolos' (the last has been
encored throe times) wore called for again.
This eveninc; I gave a seventh concert, i ^lay for the
first time an important arrangement Avhici. I have just
written on ' Le Eallo in JSIaschera.'
We are literally on the eve of a war with Spain, for the
decree, people say, is to be published tf)-morrow. The
conflk't between the latter and Chili renders imminent
the liostilc particii)ation of Peru, the Spanish American
republics being so strongly connected with eac' other by
their common origin and their political instituti ns.
Lima, January 13, 18G6.
My concerts are finished. They have been profitable,
and my success has very much surpassed my expectations.
^'J**'
486
NOTES OF A riANrST.
YAshi (lava a?o a ^uyovh doooratKMi was proscnto<l to mo ,
ff ribbon attacho.1 to it i. Avbito and ml 1 tbink
l<^n^ to re«t n.ysclf at CboriUos, un. to take tl'o ;ca-bu bs
fbero, for, altbongb .lanuary, we are "^/'j'J;;;,"' .''aUo To
riUos is tbree batjuos tVom Lima, and I si all ho ahlc to
' o tbe citv ovcrv day. I bavo tbo idea ot gcnu^^ to
Cbili, ;^n 'b is oigbt days from bere by steamer, tbe croHsmg
being as tranquil as on a lake.
CiioBiixoB, FuTiruary 2, 1866.
T Ivive been resting for fifteen days in a d„lccfar vjrntc,
^vbiJb Imd beecnne indispensable on aeeomit of tbe fatigues
^'tI;:: K Sf ^ tbe civil war in Spain bas tbK>.^ all
tbe S.nnisb Amerieas into commotion. Being at wai^Mtli
tbe l&nla, tbey are rejoiced at seeing them entangle.l in
tbeir attairs at home. l.m., March 18, 1866.
I have been introduced to Raymondi, an Italian savant,
an e SmsU s in natural history. He has been t rave ling
fi'r ten vears on foot, knows all Peru, and has explored tbe
;e;^oi';;gions,to this day uiiknowii. He bas^niea
.rreat deal about the coca and its ettects.. Ibe coca is tne
e^y a small tree which supplies flic same place arrjo.^
tbe Indians that opium docs among the C.hine>e Jbeic s
not an Indian who does not always carry m a little leather
bao- huntr to his neck a supply ot coca.
Ibe Sects of this plant klthougb not ascertained by the
i.bvsk'ians are marvellous. Tbe Iiulians, under its mfiu-
^nccT emrsus ain ]ourneys of from fifteen to twenty hours
Se^ t:\th heavi burcLs, remain wid.oiit -ting fimr
or five days, and do not becomo weaker i( r it. ^p^^lc icis
on foreign\«xpeditions are all always furnished with their
"'V\l i" the mode of proceeding employed by the Indians
for -ati c/ "oca. S^bey talce tbe loaf, aftor baying
enrived itof its filaments and make a ball of it which
tbev ni i a corner of their mouth like a quid of tobacco,
en w tb a little silver or gold pin, the point of winch
tev moisten with their saliva and dip into a little box
SSdS nme,tbey prick the ball. The grams ot hme
i_
EFFECTS OF COCA.
487
roscntod to mo ;
0(1. 1 think of
iko tlio soii-batlis
iHiuniner. Cho-
sliall 1)0 altlo to
idea of goiii^^ to
mer, tlio crossing
February 2, lf*6(5.
a diilccfar vin)t(\
lit of tlio fatigues
u has thrown all
3eing at war with
hem entangled in
,iA, March 18, 1866.
an Italian savant,
8 been travelling
has explored the
[le has told mo a
The coca is the
^ame itlaee among
Chinese. There is
in a little leather
ascertained l)y the
IS, under its intlu-
II to twenty hours
hout eating four
r for it. Soldiers
mished with their
red by the Indians
leaf, after having
I ball of it which
a quid of tobacco,
10 point of -which
p into a little box
L'hc grains of lime
adhering to the pin remain in the ball. They tlien chew,
and as it ajipears tliat there shoidd be a certain proportion
between tlie lime and the coca, to produce this condition,
tiny add sometimes a leaf of coca, or dip again their pin
inti» thc( lime, according as they wish to augment the
(piantity of the one or tlie other.
The effects of the coca are generally felt at tlic expira-
tion of a quarter of an hour. "Their marches are measured
by the number of cocades consumed. Such a village is at
the distance of ten cocades, which is the same as saying
that a peon could go the distance l)y rumiing, provided ho
had ten rations of coca, and a quarter of an hour at each one
of the arma(h)s. These are a kind of station. The peons
are seen to arrive pantuig, their tongues drv, hanging out
of their mouths, their eyes projecting anil bK)odshot. at
the stopping jdaco for the cocado. they fall exhausted
and seem ready to die with fatigue, but inuiiediately they
spit out the liall already masticated and proceed to the
making of the new one.
Little by little the effects of the wonderful plant can bo seen
hi their organism and in their features, and at the tenth
nunute they are ready to rise and continue their journey.
Marcli 20.
I have embarked on board the Lirnena ihv Islay. Islay
is a little port about one hundred leagues south of Lima.
I go there only to get on shore, Islay" being oidy a small
boroujili ; but it is animated, being the outlet on the swa to
Arequi^)a, a city of thirty or forty tliousand iidiabitants,
which IS situated at the distance of thirty leagues in the
interior. It is necessary to cross a desert of sand, and the
baggage is transported on nudes. There are ten parados
or tandjos. The tandjo is a relay and at the same time a
refuge for the traveller overtaken by the night. It is
mostly a hut: four stakes covered over witli a roof of
leaves. One sleeps there or slielters himself from the heat
of the sun and the rain.
I am going to Arequipa. I am curious to see this locus
of insiirrection. The Arequipenos are celebrated for their
indomitable .-haracter and theii warlike disposition. Every
revolution commences at Arequipa, and the soldiers are
considered brave among the brave.
37*
488
NOTES OF A PI AM ST.
I romen>1.ov u <lvin- Indian hoMut the Bixtli of last
nl i V o • Amiuipa is whito, u..d has a i-rotty an^ai-
r Jt^luok^ like i dove cnrnded in a m-st c. ..sos
: .vra poet ; ^Nith its bac-k tc> a largo volrano -^:^}^^^^l
. • it i.roscntsthe most pu-turesquo view. -H'^;; /^^^
... in /ho environB in fresh and ^roon-a rare thn.g in
I'mu ' oro the country is gray duKly, "»;»»'••'• . ^.,..,,,^,,j^
Al thoBG ^vho have travelled tro.u Tslay to AiMlini^
1 i- u tr^ Trif> nq a hcrc'idcan labour. ino '"'^^
£,d S k*, 'vl ".-0 jof, can .1.0, -i.l.ou. nnuh tc,,,' ,..
"'TlX.Tl'.a. to 1.0 -a™,, twolvc loaguo., mul oo.t,
ton sous 11 buikotlul for tlio oattlo.
March 22.
A • 1 „* TJnv A few miserable huts hanging to
Arnvod at May. A ^^'J "^ ^,^,1^,. ^^,^ elitfs and
steep reeks. Ine hea na^ nuuu. -.iv. Tf ;< n/ 1 a very
if ncit more commodious. It is y^/^^^^, •> '7'' q,,^ i,,,^,^^
ashore without being drowned.- plant, only
wv^at M droarv aspect iSot a Icat, not a r''"^^' ""/..
mI Sy rockt^TVe Spaniards being the red f-^f^^^
AUF.QUIPA, ah/ca.
439
ho sixth of lust
■longud to u ivgi-
'^'on, Scnor, tloi
r of Kiiiiok'ou'rt
the Uld (iuard.
< a inc'tty iii>iit'ar-
a noHt of Uiivos,
•alio I'ovcivd with
lew. The vegeta-
1— a rare thing in
lul aritl.
nlav to Arequiiia
ibour. The first
•rive at the Ihinho
stahlished a little
liout much fear of
leagues, and costs
March 22.
; huts hanging to
inder the cliffs and
. It is u'A a very
slay without being
the cliff in a chair
ess dangerous now,
hy means of beams
adder. One hangs
•ynuiastics, and getr
' certain of getting
r, not a plaint' ^"^y.
the red iihantom ot
passport. A liou-
top of the scaffold-
; examined my pass-
: hear my name re-
»ung merchant, who
ouse. AVe arc soon
the customs and the
military oommandant. Two travellers who arrive at this
iMonii'iit from Arcriuipa, and who have made the journey
in tAventy-liMir hours at one stage, present such a look of
fatigue and of miseries undergone \>v tliem, tliat 1 give up
going there. Hi'siilcs, f learn tliut the theatre at AVe(iuipii
has no roof. The evil is not great in a country wliere it
does not rain for nine mouths; but tlie winter is1)ci!:inning,
and in eight days the deluging rains will also luake their
apiiearance, conse(|uently 1 should have to wait three
mouths to be able to auuouiice a concert, the publii- never
going to the theatre 'in the winter for a good reason. I
will continue my voyage to the south as far as Arica,
another little jtort fifty leagues to tlu; south of Islay, i 1 I
return to tho_ boat which has just shot off a caiiu- i — ;
signal of leaving.
At the foot of the cliff a little cove is formed, w^ o th
sea exhausts itself in little soft ri[>]i!es on a beach • ' ii. >rc,
Hat, white stones. Some young children, all luKei, , re
bathing there. A young Indian girl is swimiuiig a ion^*
them in water so transparent that I can see thaf ^\e wcail
no bath hi^ costume. She has placed a hand ke^ '" ,)ver
her chest, but in swimming it has got up, and now answers
for a cravat. Besides, nofcodj seems to see her.
March 23.
Landed at Arica, a pretty country toAvn seen from the
sea. An immense rock, which runs out into the sea and
overhangs the town, is crowned with a battery of largo
cannons. It is an admirable natural fortification. Last
year the constitutional IVruvian squadron came to bom-
bartl Arica, which had pronounced for the revolution, but
it was obliged to retire, no shot being able to reach as high
as this battery perched upon the rock.
With a small effort of the imagination one can see an
immense sphynx itlaced alongside of the town and seeming
to guard it. Its gray and bald croup extends into the in-
terior of^ the country, and loses itself in a chain of moun-
tains which bounds the horizon behind the town. Tlie city
of Arica is, in truth, a little country town. Its imiwrtance
is due particularly to its proximity to Bolivia.
440
iiOTES Oh' .1 I'l.^SlST.
'n,,,o 1. on lM.un a '"'y'^ ' "/.^ '\ ,,. ,,,,10 u'o t.» Bolivia
withhi.n. 1^»\^'''^'»'';;''^'"V ' ' ; fu , I wlu..v there are no
Hotels. AHi\>rthcMhu.j:.M , M a.^ ;'>^^ ,,,,,y
tnivellini; "^•^•»'l^'"*V ll ,^f .loU-irrt arc sent in eases
month hun.hvas au.l ^^T^^^^^^^^ -'.leteers,
,, le ot>;--ha es^ un. . th on^^ ^,,^ .j^, ,,
una a real is neve "»^^ 'p hnn.hv.l leai,nieH. It olten
tnivelle.1 is two, •'''^■^'v " / '/2, ti..nea to nu- by nnn.y
Uai.pons (the laet has -*;^'^;; J'^ r , n'wes at Taei.a with
nKVehants) that the eon oy ot i an ^^^ .^^^^^^^ ^^^^^
one nu.le nussu.- and aU> ^^^ ' V, ^i^^ i„aian, "and
si;';s;::„^';;:;;;?s"^:;ro?^:^L,i„.:,a„a,„.i,„.
it with him on his next trn.. ^^^ Spanish
There is at the V^'-^f ^^f ^ts lanll, playin^^ in
actors, ^vho are fjo.ng to l^mnos A u _^^ ^..^^^^^^^^
every ;o^v^r^tl\^/"^^\: .^ ^4 ^ ^^^^^ l-^-^'"!- ''"^^|«
K J=e!^ ti^Mll^^y -^' 1-^as of whU sh.gnlarly
^Tll"beenpro„i.i;uU,i.nio.^mT^^^^
is like all the Spanish ?-'>V?n,ek r is^ pe^^^ ^"
ond bric-a-brae. The l'\ (^^.^. ;^^,'^^^. J","' t s entirely k^y
one of the sides ot the ^;1,^"\ ' ^"l"^ '^j,^ ^f its heiiiht-tho
and bare. One can I'^^^-'Ib. ^^^^^.^^ r'.tablish the ,.roi.or-
eye having no romt ot I 1 "^^tiuc ^^^^ ^^ ^
tions of this vas granitic ";^^^? ^^'^'y^^, i„ opposite dircc-
lew littlewhitcliness nj-e^bk a z^^^^^ ^^^^^^
tions; these are the I'^^^^-^Xar
battali<M. of soldiers "V, ^^!?^^J,^^\^' ^ as if only a few
secnd from the top. .1''^^^""';^ ^.^^..^-ly a^ if they were
yards oti'. I distinguish them as cluiuy
IM)IA.\S OF A Y.{( I CIKK
AW
lort iV(MU Tiuiia.
liv rail,
ougli Ttu'iui ami
i<luisani,tliiM'ai.i-
i. to go to Uoliviu
^iicsot't'oiintryon
lii'iv thoro arc no
• tVoiu liKi<«;iu'an(l
mkiiowii. ' Kvi'i-y
i are *i.'\\\ in <'a>*c'S
Iiulian uuiU'twi-H,
idinji the tlistaiieo
leaii;ueH. H "t't*""
ed to nie l).v many
ivertat Tacna willi
lie animal lias dietl
the Indian, "and
m; it to yon on the
ho tindrt the case of
animal, and hrings
a troop of Spanish
hv land, playing in
(inal in «listaiu-e to
sliall iierhaps make
)f whieh singnlai'ly
rheehurehof Ariea
s— full of gcw-gaws
perpendicularly on
It is entirely gray
a of its height— the
tjstablish the propor-
pierces the sky. A
bra in opposite direc-
ir optical ettbct. A
lead toy soldiei-s, de-
nie as if only a few
.urly as if they were
nhout to ton<'li mc, aI»sohiti'ly as if I was looking at itn ob-
ject tlirniigli the large end of' an opera glass.
\\\' ha\i' on lioard an indivi(hiai who has jnst iieeii ap-
pointed coiiiniandaiit general ol' liie lorlitications of Arica.
lie is a distinguished man, and i'nll of moderation- u rare
thing among the Peruvians.
There is a decree of I'rado's which suhji'cts to a very se-
vere penalty every Peruvian wliose service's may he retii'iired
l>y the government, and who shall refuse to accejit its man-
(late. ("oloncl \. (i, has hecii oliliged to aliandon his
family to eome to Arica to take the ccimmiual of the forti-
ftcations.
lie relates to me sonu' of his campaigns in the interior.
In the department of Ayacucho there are villages and en-
tire districts whose inhahitants, for the most part Indians,
are so ferocious and independent that no one has evt-r hei'U
ahle to 1 ollect the taxes, oi- make them suhmit to any of
the burdens imjiosed upon the other c;M/.eiis of the ri'|iub-
lic, whilst they exact Iron* the govoniment that protection
whicli it extends to all. They were obedient to the govern-
ment of Marshall Santa Crii/, for forty years, because Santa
Cruz was u half Indian — his moiher being a ('aciipie (a
descendant of tlie privileged iiimilies of the Incas), Xear
to Ayacneho these Indians liavo elected a governor, who
was called for a long time a Peruvian general by his own
authority. His sfm (the general was dead) governed when
IX N. Vergas was sent by the republic of Lima to take the
command with the title' of colonel. He was a fat Indian,
Ulthily dirty, who smelled strong of" dirt fen feet off. " I
made him a present of a ]»air of epaulettes," said \'ergas to
me, "but lie did not know what to do with them, being
naked, with the exception of his sash. He fastened therii
to it, as well as lie could, and demanded that the music of
the regiment, which I had brought with me, should i)arade
the streets with liini in order that all might see him with
his ensign of colonel."
This population is a very savage one. Tlioy tear out
the eyes^ of their prisonei-s, and the bones froin out the
limbs with horrible retinemeiits of cruelty. They are
Catholics; have their churches and their priests, which
I
H
^^o yOTKS OF A riASI.^T.
a,l not prevent tl.n. On the SU.nv(^.nU,U■n..Vo,nb.u.,
•,. v.ry h>..^^a.u hm.l n '«',;,.;, ,,a, the nver. At
.h-elivUieH on a '-•<» ^'''^ , ? h vn Iron. on. M.' to the
;:;i;;:;:;;r;;:ilaat;u-h;w^u^i .,. .v.- .>.. tnnn...
tuou.ly,u...lwithuuoi«e. ^^^^^^^^^^_
Three Tn.lhu. ^'-^,^-1,^" Th^I" r^tt./ tljun
,„ule. are loaded with ; » \ j.^^, ^^H.y have travelled
l.oto.i,who «;ome t'-'>'' ';^.': ;;i the (le.erts,the (or-
three hundred h'a-ues haxt ^^ ^^.^^j^ ^,
dillerasan.l nve.-n; have t«'m J ^^ ^,j. ^,,^,
ad ^vo^th fifteen, thou.sand . kh i|»<^ ; ^p,^, ,i,o1„
Uuan. of 'J'f i'^;-'f5 i;:;;^^ m^.nLn:Jtie teature. do
of IVru IS tat,H,nal,th K. net l^^^^^^^ ^^„,, ^,„,,a ly
1
'-^ ^'"i^f '^ The'll. vhm^ Vlnn; hi. nkin, of an earthy
i,eaeeahle. Uie lioiniau ,, . . |- ,, hvs ognnniy w
Irown, ai.pn>aehes a niost o lack , t^^ >^^ aHu.aranee
tluit of a hrute- Ins t'>r ' ' .' ai ^^^^ ^^„,\',,i, ,o„.
of a monkev and tt>e Vea m his V^^ j^ ^ to
avu-t ; his features a.e ^^'' '«^' ' ,-, i,i,th, and eut slop-
hisears; 1^^^ ^'^^h' H^^V^ ' ^^^^^^^ his forehead is dc-
i,,,totheno^nK.. Ukeam<^^^^ ^
l-lrto^hile^:;^^
TAt NA, At)ril 2.
o ' Tho soeietv of Taona is natiU-ally
I,
>A, M.mh'24. IHim.
MroiiK'imtU', wliiili
l„-t\vi»i> twoHtony
•(•<l, tlu- riviT. At.
•oiii <.ll.'^i<W• ♦'•'''*'
river tlown tunml-
Mnrcli ;U.
,m Bolivia. 'Hnir
, lire IiKliiinrt tVoin
'hey liiivi^ tnivelh'd
ho deserts, the ('"r-
y iiiul uiKlitwith a
The tvpo of the
)f iVrii/ Tlie eholo
itiithetie ieutures do
mild and <?eiierally
rt skin, of an earthy
his i>liVsiogiif>i>»y I'*
i has tiie iMtpfaranee
/enients and hi'^ «">-
mouth is oi'ened to
,rt hirth, and eut slop-
, ; his forehead is de-
I'jrh, stitf, dull IdiH'k
\ie rigidity in thiek
ittlo round eyes, very
ice to the luonkey.
Tacna, A^ril 2.
of Taona is natdrally
i married to Taenenas,
•en eivilizod by a few
or three rieh taiuibes
FACTITIOUS MllSTOCliA r/KS.
448
of the coiuitry, arc tlio eloiuents eoiiHtifutint' (he siu-lit>i of
Tar,,
,,ll.
W'eiilth heiiiijf almost the only nrisfuri'i, cy re<ii(riii/,(M|
ani<)i,<; |ii,rvei,iis and ie]iiil)liri,,is, il cj,,,,,"! lie Lriiii,si,id
that the S — (the fathi-r is Kiiirlish), who are rieii, wi,o
liave a hrother.in London, wl,i> I, avi' triveii soirees, wiio
possess the only ei,i'i'ia_tiv iii the city, occupy the first ,'aiil\.
I have nnt the least ol»j»'ction to these ass,,i,,ptioi,s nt'supe-
rJiMity. That — — - slioidd he the centre of his little cii-cle,
I have not the least ilesiixs to ojipose. lint that this ii,,-
pc'ccptilile cei,ti'e of a i,,icrosi(iiiie cii'cle >lio,,ld jiei'sist ii,
i)clicvii,i;' himself a eel, tl'" when I, i' goes oiitsiiK' of his lidle
sphere, is what I tind riniculoiis. I'naccnstomed to he
seen outside of tin- factitious atiiios|ihere where tln'ir salis-
tieil vanity exercises itself, ll,e>e little centres I'oi'ifct that
they are nohodies except when surrounded hy ofhi-rs
inferior to themselves. What would he tlioiijiht of a
Jiilipntian, who, owii.g to his g.-eat height, has heeii
inade dnim-major of a Jiilipntian regirneiit, who, thrown
into the midst of ijianis, should still aspire to the preroga-
tives of the drum-majoralty'f AhsurdI
There is nothiiiij more irritating than tliosi' factitious
aristocracies which can he explained only hy tlie inferiority
of those among whom they move,
t^ome very pretty wonn'ii at the treasurer's. The dances
are quadrilles, the lancers, the polka, tin; waltz, and the
dance llahanesa, which they dance here entirely diti'ereiit
from what they do at Havana. After supper they dance
thi' me<apa([Uena: it is a species of Bolivian Indian cpiad-
rille, whose music, in a minor key, with u racking rhythm,
reniinds one a little of the Aral* melodies. The figures are
numerous and complicated. .Sometimes the lady, conducted
hy two cavaliers, advances. The step is always the same
throughout the whole (luadrili'; it i(j a skipping from one
foot to the other, rapidly and lightly, which nives to the
ladies the appearance of a shiveriii!; throuirhout their body.
Sometimes tlie lady leads, the arms extended, holding a
handkerchief hy the two etids. With head inclined, she
milker^ the tour (vf tlie room; then all at once, like a frighr-
ened u >ve, she flies and escafies to one extrenuty ; then
slowly ritunis, with her head turned backward, as if she
t
444
NOTES OF A PIASIST.
(wit , t.-;.""'- '""'"'' ':,; link .1,1 lady, wi«,s. i-omul
fij' 10^ it'll^m.S'iplo Cried up l,y tho .u,„ lu.
Caci(iue blood in her vciiis.
CHArTER XXIX.
a very strong pro) ml cj) agam^t ^^^^^^ ^' . ^ , y,,. ,„tiroly
"t-icv^rie. «rVO- .7«™ X* «S::? '"olal^J
rr "'■ "SSIn'" W- lis o,.bi,,, .u;d wfc
b ac'k eyes spaiklc in Z^'"-" ,. , •. ,, earls, descends
Hhows ^vhen she smiles ^^vo ro^^^ ^>\^;l^^t^ \^"^ marvellous
i,,„, the Cacique "7-":-^.i^^irof ^.ulals, always
"i.::;;viMhat indeMigabie ^^<^^^:^^:^
territories with h s con<l"ermg ^ Yf J^,^;''^ te -ontinent of
the Xew Uorld, Avh cU ^Jf. '^^ J ^ possessing either
although less g^'^^^V^'" . ^ e ed n' Ws whole character
his virtue or ^^'^^^''11^1^^^^^^^^ than those of
some features more «tnhi"g. "^^J^ ^" . ^^ ,,f H,e Ke-
las n.odel-the vnnriflHtcs l^iere "^iu AVashington
public of the United ^*;f,^*^; , .V [' ,^i,i,ii bec-omes the
something graver, "f ^-^^^^i^^^"^^ is Cindnnatus
cold genius of tlio An|a<>Saxon au J^.^^^ ^^^.^.^^ ^^^
and Socratoa ennobled by Lmisuanu^ ,
WASHINGTON AND BOLIVAR.
445
3 which carries her
ions and channiuji.
lady, wliose round
up by the sun, has
iiilics -who boast of
sacerdotal, and gov-
lorc exists in general
Indians, and as the
Lonour to be entirely
o betray too clearly
, save their pride by
. take a Cacique for
t this good little old
imp, whose two large
ted orbits, and who
vhite pearls, descends
Ls beai a marvellous
i of scandals, always
a whisper the foUow-
who was hewing out
rd and creating with
Immense cotitinent ot
t^natched from Spain,
1, not possessing either
L his whole character
omantic than those ot
it founder of tbe Ke-
cre is in AVashington
1, which becomes the
If. it. is C'incinnatus
y • whilst Bolivar was
a man of the Spanish-Amcricaji race. Ife partakes of tlie
Coiidottieri of the middlo ages by his extravagant (U'i)ro-
dations, and of the liero by his uitrcpid valour, his ticiy
energy, and the sublime sacrifices which lie has Uiado for
lihcrty and his country. AVashington will never descend
from th'- serene lieights of liistory!^ where lie dominates hi
all the majesty of the great, tlie good, and the true— the
greatest rejiresentatives of humanity ; whilst liolivar has
been already the ty])e of many liomans. If IJolivar, in
the midst of the dissensions which alreadv were com-
mencing to paralyze the Hight of the new ]-epul>lics, had
provoked bitter liatreds, he had also inspired the <;reater
part of the nations which he had just created whh an
idolatrous devotion. From the Straits of ]\higellan to
Venezuela, from the banks of the Ainaz( ■; to the'shores of
the Pacilic, iuid on all the peaks of the Amies, the name of
liolivar excited transports of enthusiasm.
During owq of those short intervals in liis life of
combats, behvecn two battles, he stopped at Tacna. The
hero was teted: the citizens and magistrates exhausted
all the resources which the intoxication of jiatriotic
enthusiasm could suggest. The 'Pearl of Tacna,' and
the descendant of tlie"^ Cacique Iluascar, then in all the
brilliaiK'y of her beauty and" youth, attracted his notice.
Urged by the frenzy of enthusiasm, of grateful patri-
otism, her father, they assert, presented her to the 'l.iber-
ator.' _ Ihit the restless soul of the hero would not per-
mit liim any repose so long as Ins task Avas incomplete.
There still iximained the half of the continent to he taki'u
from the Spaniards, lie tore himself from love, and threw
himself again into the whirlwind of battles. 'J'he cannon,
glory, and ambition soon etliiced the memory of the grand-
(laugliter of the Inca Iluascar. lie never saw ]•< r again !
The poor child! a moment dazzled by the aureole whitli
surrounded the hero, thought that iu*^ ob(ying her father,
she Avas also yielding to the transports of'^hei- own heart;
l)ut when alone and abandoned she became a mother, she
interrogated her heart and discovered that she had never
loved. She Avas then eighteen years old. Concentrating
nil the treasures of tenderness which her virgin heart in-
closed, she resolved never to marry, and to coiisecrate iier-
38
'
/!
2^0T£S OF A PIANIST.
446
.vhioh tunc lu^ only -J-^t; " u^/^l^yu-hlo.! to a dc-
attontioii^ of ^^T-T"' V -1. l+-\vith «> much the more vio-
B^re^vhieh imK-humed ^;,*^^' \ , ^.^^ ,!; ,,ahi..l mute. Hhe
leiice a. her heart up to that . "^ ^'j m' im. impi-y. But
married. Their union ^^ ^ f j^ J' -j ,u ..f stornueame
clouds, at first ^-^''^;}';}^Z^^^ This house was I'or
to darken the peaee o t'^^, '^"^^ ,. . \,,„i the dark drama,
a lono- time enshrouded m "^'^.'^^ '\' ''"i^.^ails unknown to
.vhieh took plaee tl'^TC is st 1 m it. U u ^^^^^^^ .^^
almost all. ^^ ^^''^^.^f *H^'^ "^' ^1 V'owu ; although
The natural daughter «* 1^"^^^ ,,. * Jitul as lu-r mother.
l^,rdly adole^ont, ^ ^^^^X his wishes I So
X loved hei. J"*,^ ^"*-/.'*- , , .„, i „, ..f, p u'^u'ian was
one knows. She died 7^^;^^;,^^ 'j " \\;'',i nu s whieh had
calle.l in, and as ^^er lior cW^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^y^^^._
trouhled the peace (.t he ^^ou^^^'M '^^^ -,,,. if would
pated, remarks upon them Vi^«i,^;,S;\^^uf divided be-
her only a favoured rival. indeserihahlc
I adniit, that sinee, I oanno ^ f ^^^J^^ J^,, offers me
emotion, look ut this gocnl le o d ^^^^ .^^ a-
a eup of tea with all ^^^ ; ''^ ! .'^.7|,ce\i siSlied by a cin^^^^^
mother whose eonseicnee has nex tr been j
Tacna, April 5.
p,,.a ;,,o evening .lU.^ «»;- Stlli.^ ani'T '^
ried in tins eountry. A\ e a^e '^^l^ ., ^,, .,,,a the
played for tliem the -ovt- to J u^fuji^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^
;^;^^eti^.s;^-.n\i:\"i-^-^^^
tl^f ^.Pted wiai through tl.nj^s,^-_ ^
A eharmmg evening ^^^'^7^';^^iX^ '^lasnadieri,'
man amateur and a ladx ^^^^,^,;""£;;;'i ,en invited to eat
and that of 'Rigok'tta lo-daj i li-nc « ^^^ ^^^^
game taken on the ^^^^?>;\. .^^'^^,^^;,'a ' i e ii st chain of
indes, whose snowv pomt r^c> bd^md the ^^^ .^^
mountains of the Merra. It i>= tittecu
lator,horl)oanty,
•acti-(l to Ir'I" the
> yii'ldod to a tlc-
ic-h the more vio-
lainnl mute. Wie
uiK' iiapi'V. But
uU of storm, caiue
i\\\a house was ibr
I the chirk drama,
i.tails unkuowu to
11(1 I here relate it.
irrowu ; although
if as her mother.
:o his wishes'? iS'o
s no physician was
clouds which had
,M)eared to he clissi-
vantint?. It would
uasear, divided he-
1 her instincts as a
rmer, and poisonrnl
litting her to seo m
mt an indescrihahle
oman who oilers mo
f a good old grand-
,u sullied by a crime.
Tacna, April 5.
rchant, who has mar-
1 nmsic, and I have
iUiam Tell' and the
; time that they had
ioh, nevertheless, they
wspapers.
's have sung. A 'jov-
theduo'Masnadieri,
ivc heen invited to eat
'acora is a peak of the
liiid the first cham ot
:oen thousand teet m
INDIANS AND ROBBERS.
447
height. They shoot wild gt'cse tluMv, which arc said to ho
ex(|uisitc. A young clerk lci"t(lroni Mr. llavV, the mer-
chant) for Tacora (two days' walk), and ha.s brought hack
u superb supply.
Tacna, Aj)!-!! G, 180G.
Last evening; second concert at Tacna. Audience ])as-
sahlc. My friend, Mr. H., on.reaching home, found tlie door
of his stable ojien, and his horse, a superb animal, had dis-
appeared. This morning lie lias called in some Indians of
l5olivia for the purpose of pursuing the rol)her, and taking
from him liis horse. A few hours later on tliev brouojlt
the liorse to him. He was found covered with 'foam and
sweat, and bearing all the traces of a long race. It is pro-
bable that some Indian wlio had to make\a sudden Journey
last iiiglit had taken this commodious means of boiTowiiif
the horse of 11 . °
These Indiana which II- liad immediately called
upon, have an admirable instuict in capturing miirauders
and finding stolen horses or catik-. The tricks emploved
by the roldn-rs for the pur])osc of destroying their tracks
are worthy those of the red skin. The print of the foot
betraying the road taken by the animal, they put on him
imitation hoofs; but the Indians do not let themselves be
taken in, they recognize l)y the greater or less depth of
the hoof if it is real or not. Sometimes they [mt on a
sheq) the lioots of a horse or cow, but they make nothing
by it, the Indian has other signs by whicli he recognizes
the animal.
Good Friday.
The Lamentations are sung false by an old Ppanish jji-iest.
The accompaniment consists of a violin and violoncello.
I mention the latter as a memorandum seeing tliat it liad
only one note. It is an old Indian who ]ilays it, and I
forbear saying what he did. While the" i)riest was
chanting the Lamentations, lie was frolicking, making
sometimes trills, sometimes arjieggios, sometimes chromatic
scales, ascending, descending, — he was frolicking, 1 say,
agreeably on the treble striiig, precipitating himself from
its sharp summit into the depths of the fourth string where
he rested on a treinclo, tlu'U came a wpiili whicli esca])ed
altogether upward, tlie whole of this false, out of tune,
NOTES OF A r/.l.V/^-
!Ln... .vUW an, ..anl to tl. V.y .. .... the
l''-^StS;a,t.attK...^^^^^^^
.uc-h a way that U ^-- ^ --^,^ ^^,,,,1 ,„a was takup
him. AVhcu ho 1^';:^^^ ^^;^^ , ;\,,a travolU'-l insensibly
hrcath again the ^ ;' ' , ^^ „v ,, „.,to, r.tunu.l a-ain
upward. c,r(lo^-oii.UHl OH -l<mun ^ ^^^^^ i„vanal.ly m
to the original ^ey, ^^ ^ > •>\\'= ^^.,^i, . then the tatla-r
G, tolhnvcd by a « ;*-,^ .^J^;. ,],^ violin n-..oinim..uva.
bogan again, and ^^'^ ^^'^^^^^^^^^^^ ,,,j, arUlr,hvm^ m Ibo
Tho ottcH-t wa. ^^'-""5?^', . \*iie ettVH-t of a sbowc-bath
r-^r^'JKtrXl^ohdei'ohdeavl
overv tunc that u iciumv.
^''' •> Txcsx, April n.
Imrn all tho ports. I ^^^^^ of gwing a
to .m south to hiuique, %U>uo I \w
^,^ert. What am I ^ do^ ^^X^!^ h^l^^ -^^^^^^
Bolivia is opened ^^t ^^;^^^ f le of .he other republics
the continent, wedged }' |^'^ .^ ;.^,,,, behind the nnowy
who serve her tor ^^''''^'}^^ T^'T^^ oon-
:!;nnits of the Andes she d.he.h.;-;-^ atmosphere of
tinues to live in the ""^¥,^;. ' ^ and c ime.. [have the
revolutions, S"^^"^«^'-TS el^-^a' of liohvia, but it is
crveatest desire to visit ^ /iH^^; ^^ ^^^ - ,,,^y 13
three haiidroO • nles m he "i;"^*;;.^.,,^^,. to cross lirst
nl^de on tho )>aek,. of r;^;^JVvS^^'^ of desert, to
a harrier 01 n.oM.; "^f' ^^^^T^^^^^f snows, and the regions
(he hrst declivities f^^'^aunt\n^ of blood. The
are a dimness, "<^"^««;.^" f \'^i heat .x-casTon besides chaps
r is lip;' iS Idtir^^-le sHn in general, which
I
I
BOLIVIA.
449
ov m
Avhu'h tlie
,ui of til'.' key in
...ssibUi to fellow
.,,,,1 was taking
,xv\\i'd inscnriibly
e, iH'tunu'tl ajrain
)r(l, invariably in
; then the fatlicr
ilin n'connniMU'i'il.
vide, boing in the
of a sViowor-bath
I dear'.
Tacs\, April !).
paraiso change's all
,0 Spaniards' bt'ing
as Gniiyacinil and
itbo'-; iinprndonro,
link^ ..M>f giving a
ill 1 1." ; . ,.
cd in thf interior ot
Die other repnbhcs
behind the nnowy
fc;i>aniards, and eon-
,vmul atniosplicre ot
I V imM. r. have the
f UolLvia, hnt it is
and the journey is
icessarv to cross lirst
t extent of desert, to
nvs, and the regions
rt at fifteen thousand
La V-M, which has at
feet.
ndes arc besides ex-
is fclt particularly on
The tii-st symptmns
niting of hlood. The
u-casion besides chaps
kin in general, which
cracks, sAvells, and degenerates into ulcerations. The
perspective on this side has nothing attractive in it, l>ut
on tlie other it presents a inagniHceii't occasion to go to La
Paz. AVitliout reckoning the season, which is magniliccnt,
tlie rains having ceased and tlie storms of the Andes being
over, a caravan of Frenc-h travellers start to-morrow on
the way to (,'ochabandm and stoj) on the road at La Paz.
It is t'oniposed of French engineers, a number of merchants,
and a French baron also, wlio takes with him the whole
efpiipage for a campaign, tents, wagons, provisions, further
an Indian servant for cook, mules,'arms, and photographic
ai)l)aratus. The safety which foreigners enjoy is relative.
]i<)livia commits with imi)unity tlie most flagrant crimes
against the laws of nations behind these bastions eighteen
thousand feet in heiglit, these giddy defiles, thesr'peaks
v.here the eagle soars or the vicuna pastures. Her people,
strong and warlike by nature, are hardened by forty years
of bloody and desperate strife. Legislation, laws, arts, have
for a long time disappeared before the sword, the symbol
everywhere and here partic;ularly of brutal force, barbarism,
spoliations, assassinations, proscri])ti()ns, military execu-
tions, and all the excesses to which a ferocious and licen-
tious soldier of fortune can give himself who arrives at
supreme power sustained by a victorious and unbridled
soldiery. This is the condition of this unhappy country
whose territory is double that of Franco, whose mineral
and vegetable i-iches are inexhaustible, and which under a
good government would take the first rank among the
strongest and most favoured of the globe.
Tj jna, April 21.
One of my friends having received a letter from one of
his correspondents at Valparaiso, in which the desire of
hearing me is expressed more strongly than ever, T d
myself again eml)arrassed. On the "other side they ve
written to me from Afoquehua (interior of IVru) in \ ng
1110 to go there to give a concert. There is a piano hvU ng-
ing to a S[ianianl, who on account of my decorations tiers
ine hospitality and his piano for my concerts ; but the road
is long. There are no dangers, but much fatiir'i.'. The
Indians here are submissive, tinud, mild, and honct Thev
38*
450
NOTES OF A PIANIST.
i-
ration. Ibc ^^''^^^^^^^ ^^,,ivc here every day, la<len
race. Caravans ot J^"'^*" ,^', . „ .i.i.„c or four unamned,
with in-ots ot\Bdver esc.>rte( y tlncx^ J i ^^^._
half-naked Indians. In ^l^c ;'"'> ^^^^^^^times a inule is
come broken in the monnta s ml ^" t^";«^^^^_ u, ;,
nured and disappears ^ -^^^ ^ ^/^.^n, the sanu.
left on the ^7^\, ^" , ' "' -1 eve the ^^'^'''^^^''^ happened,
Indians pass by the place y*/;^ !-;" . ^.-e thousand or
„,a earr^otfthe oad (f "Jf^ "'^^^^^^^^^i" -ks n^eddled M'ith,
thirty thousand dollars) ^^^^^ ,^7°^',^y,'^other on the road,
although caravans every *!«>/«' ";^ thiThonesty is that the
^Vhat is more lingular ^l\'-^'^f;^\^J'\'',4X^^ thousand
f^^S^s^s:::^^^^^^ worti^nothmg, t^t
-^r;.::;t^Ki^eiongh,g^
it by a tailway eighteen ""l^^,^! ^'^g\^ ;\;i\ole commerce of
its geographical position. ^ ™^''t^.J';\^.^^^ through Tacna.
Bolivia, h.. impuits and ^^^P^^^^^^^^^^^i'''^^^ files^of laden
Thus the nuileteers the -a avan^^^ ^^ ^.^^^^antly
xnules which coine tioin oi ait ^mn^ ^^^^^ ^^_^^.^y
encumber the V^^ ^1^,,-^ ^, ^^ as my do<,r
been more than halt an ^" "/ '" ^ ,,„ ^.,,^ olt'. A caravan ot
^vhich nevertheless was «" y. fj^> 1^?'^^^' ^"\, other, became
loaded mules kickm.g, V'^'^'^'lf.''^'^^^^^^^^^ would
entangled and tbrmed a conj^)act no^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ .^^
neither .o forward '-;;^^^;^ ^^ thSscene is indescril>-
this narrow street, i lie conlUbion|^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^.^ ^^^^^^^^
able. The muleteers .u ..., ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ . ^hc
r:^irr :o!^d tl^t^' ^^-' tlie men-handise was
^tHid^i' ^Ml this --^I^^X^tsrSellent lihe-
.a;Sonl^S^>{^e^^^
(ncfirly four luin-
Uifuity have boon
in'tho projoiK'C ot
I terror and adiui-
intinilely superior
every day, laden
or four unr.rnied,
on, the roads he-
uietimes a nude is
the mud. He is
y season, the same
xceident happened,
•y-five thousand or
'has meddled with,
1 other on the road,
honesty is that the
k-enty-tivc thousand
if they can, a strap,
worth nothing, that
ona (connected with
;es its importance to
• whole commerce ot
tiiulc through Tacna.
' Ions files oi laden
o La'Paz, constantly
ena. I have to-day
lo- as far as my door,
>s otf. A caravan ot
it each other, became
ii<r mass which would
,fi*ied as tiicy were m
:his scene is indeserib-
-ows to their saints,
I, kicked, reared ; tlie
the merchandise was
i-rible noise,
le most excellent h bo-
ms Senor General Mel-
to, a sort of tiger with
ecomes ferocious, lie
SIXGULAR MARRIAGE CUSTOMS.
451
tlicn kills everybody around liim. Tie lias assassinated
with liis own hand 'the ex-presidoiit, wliose place he took.
He caused to be shot for pastime, by some soldiers sent tor
him by his corporals on duty, a •young girl, almost at her
own home, whose beauty he remarked in j.assing before
her window. In the street he cut otf the ears of iTis adju-
tant with his sabre, cleaved the shoulder of bis aid-de-
camp with one blow of an axe, burns, sacks, and gluts him-
self like a ferocious ])east in the midst of all the excesses to
Avhich his savage and sanguinary appetites drive him.
Jjast week, one of his adjutants having observed to him,
that it would be better if he abstained from being present in
the condition in which he was, at a reli«rious procession (ho
was drunk), he placed his revolver on liis chest and killed
him at once.
Some of the customs of Tacna.
The marriages of the civilized Indians of Bolivia are ex-
tremely curious. The future husband having chosen liis
godfaHier, ordinarily a white gentleman, goesVith him to
the house of the ' novia' (bride). The "godfather stipu-
lates with the fatlier or mother (sometimes with the god-
mother w-hidi the 'novia' has chosen) on tJie conditions of
the marriage. Tho.-'e generally arc pieces of pocket-money
or woollen stutfs, or ;i sheeji, to be given to the bride's
parents. Then they send to the neighbouring village of the
husband and the bride to get, for the first, red pantaloons, a
red coat, a three-cornered hat with feathers, and shoes.
For the bride, shoes, a dress of woollen, or of silk when she
is rich. These costumes are the same for all, they are lent
for the ceremony, and are faithfully sent Iwck again the
next day to the furnisher in town. Tliere is nothing so
pitiable as the grimaces of these poor husbands and wfves,
who have never before put on shoes ; they are in torture
and stumble at every stej), their clothes are too large or too
small, and they present the most grotesque appearance in
the world.
After the benediction at the church, they are conducted
into a species of little grove made of small branches and
]>alms, where they are made to sit opposite each other.
Exposed to the remarks of the wedding guests by an open-
ing like a window^, they must remain immovable, looking
ti
I
I
452
NOTES OF A PIAMS:
i
I
at cac-h other without snoakiiig for many hours. The
Lnu.«trt (hu'inff tliis tiiuo <h-ink, danoc, and oat. ihvv coinoa
the c-eromony of oondncting tlicm to the nuptial cabin,
whieh is accompanied with very singular customs undprac-
^7)i*dinarily the godfather or godmother sees in the town, at
the expiration of a few days, the newly-married one's, wljo
come to comv.lain of some trouble which has taken l>ln<;« i"
the household. These complaints are commonly that tlie
bride is not willing to work, or that th<! husband ai.l|ropri-
atesto himself all the pieces of meat or of choupe . (the
national soup). The godfather or godmother is miuested
to administer some blows with a leather strap to the delin-
quent, and the couple return to their village Tt also otten
happens that the woman presents herselt, all m teai>, to
the 1 .riest. " I'adre, m v husband does not love me, he has
not yet whipped me." The priest then causes the husband
to be called, mid after having reproached him with his m-
ditiercnce, places in his hands a whip and ordei> him to
administer correction to his better halt, who, receiving it
with a relish, thanks the priest, and goes away certain tliat
her husband loves her. The humi ity otthese poor Indi-
ans, their submission, their fear of the whites, speaks suth-
cieiitly of wliat they have had to sutler trom the coiKiuest
up to our days. , , , ,, .• vi,^
At every revolution they are treated by both parties like
beasts of burden; they arc torn from their families, and
forced to carry enormous burdens for the distance ot many
hundreds of miles. Ataiiy perish from blcws and fatigue.
AVhen the woman is about to be confined, the man im-
mediately goes to bed, and feigns all the pams of parturi-
W He groans, ho twi.ts, we^^s, and the most curious
part of it is, that he persuades himself that he is suttenng
n the same way as'his wife. He divides with her he
cares which arc lavished upon her, drmks broth koeps Ins
bed, and is di(jted during the convalescence of his betttr-
^'"l have visited the market. It is a parallelogram, open at
the two extremities, by which you can enter from tlie a<l-
iacciit streets. On the two sides arc lateral alleys, covered
like a cloister, under which a crowd ot ludiaua are squat-
i
J
.-.a;<. ,^.'.ii '-~,-■rf«WR^»^■. ^^-'"^
ri:/:rARL\G for eastkr svsday.
468
iy hours. The
It. Tlu'P coint's
! nuptial cabui,
istoiurt undpmc-
OH in the town, at
iri'ietl ones, wlio
ifl taken place in
rnnonly that the
ushand ai>[>ropri-
f ' choupe !' (the
ither irt reipiested
trap to the delin-
iro. It also often
', all in tears, to
t love nie, he has
uses the husband
him with his hi-
id ordei> him to
who, reeeiving it
away eortidn that
f these poor Indi-
lites, speaks suffi-
Vom the con(iue9t
r both parties like
beir families, and
distance of many
lews and fatigue,
ined, the man iin-
e pains of parturi-
the most curious
liat he is suifering
ides with her the
:8 broth, keeps his
snee of his better-
allclogram, open at
inter from the ad-
!i-.il alleys, covered
Indiana are squat-
ting, selling meat, fruit, etc. The fruit, particularly the
grajics, is plicnonicnal. A priest walked slowly through
the nndst ol" the mercliants and made tliem k\ss a little
image of the IJlessed Virnin, j-resenting to tliem a plate on
winch they placed a small piece of money. This operation
takes place every morning, and cannot liiil to be very pro-
ductive to the treasury of the church.
\'isitcd the church at the ujiper part of the town to-dav,
Holy Saturday. They are preparing the church for to-
morrow, Kaster Sunday ; three or four devotees, sitting on
some_ little footstools surrounded by their children, are
chatting before the altar. Home Indian servants are clean-
ing the lamps which are to ornament the altar. The whole
neighbourhood has been placed in reipiisition, and I give
up describing the coup irulL At the first glance this j.ro-
fusion of little mirrors, of children's dolls dressed in little
skirts, like balloons swinging between each nurror, the
little gilt jiaper Hagswhicli at a distance produce the ett'ect
of penny trum[)ets; the jiorcelain cups, the vases of artificial
flowers, the ehandeliei-s, the lamiis idaced alongside of each
other, ()n eacli ste]) of the altar, that heterogeneous crowd
of objects which shine in an equivocal manner, all this re-
calls without mistake those peddler's booths where for a
penny one might win at every trial.
There is an instrument in vogue among the Indians of
which I must speak. It is a flute made of reed, and is
played like a clarionet, it is called 'tristos,' and as it would
seem to indicate has a very sad sound of strange rhythm, a
funereal and lugul)rious tone. Tradition states that the
first 'tristos' was made and the instrument invented by a
friar, who was living among the Indians; he lost his 'gue-
rida,' and made one of these instruments out of the tibia
of his well-beloved.
La Serena (Ciuli), January 3, 1S87.
At my last concert at Valjiaraiso, tlie municipal council
presented me with a golden crown and a gold medal, witli
an inscription. I have had a great deal of success at my
two concerts here. To-morrow I am going to Copiapo on
the coast.
454
yoTKS OF A /v.i.v/.sr.
i\
11
|i
i
i
CopiAPO, February 12.
I luia n..ti.v.l at th.' \'' ' V ,;t,,.o„-,..(.tuivthat ho
^vaso,uM.t-thos.s<»cml Ym-kKV i^^^ .j,^ ^^.^^^ ^^^ ,,,^
F,vn.h cH.Msnl s. ^^V la U hick la-cvontcl hhn
oM-hurr, hut hiHhaa l^^^f ' ''';,,; th.rihymhuo<l to
,,,k..shift.. Day ';:^'^, ;f •' «t>uUlHua.U.nly with a
„u' that Mr. II—— ^^art ^iJ^'r rrj ,i,,,.t,„. ...aiod ui at
„„,,,aul not guvh Mwau \' ; V^'^f^^^^rs, clunng ^vhic•h
^not^.^r'^ ''i^::' ;;:!;. a ^^>n.u. h.t;iUgc;na. au.l a
1., was .lyujg. J, Ho ,m«.ioi acss, at least ui api-ar-
ance, and wo wa.to.l *<>>7, //v % o'to He du.l to-(hiy at
•viur, which was inonu'ntanl} ^^^''^ , ^„|y ,„,,,le
a. in Kuroius and the h [';; l, T^ . roUot, tV<nn whcnoo wo
and niysolf t.. oomo to the ^^ '/;7^!;, .^..^ ory. Two hour«
^vill a'ooo.n|>anv the oori.sc | J^^^.^^^ ;\uH-omi.osod, a.xl
after his ( oat\v ,the l'" ^> ^;^\''' ;," 1,. that the hotel
spreading ts miasm m h mh a > a. ^^^^^^^^.^ .,^ ^^,,
i^ev<^r.M\sf^^^^^^^^,^ ,irc.us whire 000k-
^%^. evciung, at r^f^:^^::!'-^Z r £
at the Ihitel Marcadet I w.v^ iK^er 1 ^^ ^^^^^ ^^.^
niout of a foreigner, ^^y"Vj t'^^ ^ l"^ ^ .^^1^^,,^ ,,.ifi, g,ief.
family, without ;".^-";^.,, "A i^.^ , . Vn this Boli<larity of
Theiv is^also something 0} attutu^ ^^^^ ^^^^^
compatriots who oonie t"fe'^^;^^\J^j,,.,.,,, known, hut who
to him whcmi they 1^^^'^' T-^f^ J;,^- \ho >• mother-country,
boru like themselves .^^^ / "^ ,^" ! ^.a .v ith after death,
rt.,, uave oome ^^ ^Iji;^";^, f ;^ , ^ dshlrv 1 have learned,
J^SJZ ^eM^aLral Mainuis de — , and,
THE sAii iiruun.
4:)')
.ro, February 12.
n, shiiliby tnan,
ijccti-.iv thiit lio
Liiu'nca so oi'tcn
•itU li'mi at tlio
II". 111! W!IS iiu
j.ri'vcnti'd liiin
roby iv(lu(0<l to
nimo to iufonn
Hiuldnily with a
•tor, lallod in at
Wo ri'licvt'd oin'
rs, (lurinj; wliicli
ntuHigonci' aii<l a
t least in aiiiK'ar-
i (lav liis (U-livi-r-
He (Vu'il to-day at
■re arc only made
'ing kei.t as Ion*;
ted all the French
t, iVomwhenoe -sve
ti'ry. Two hours
decomposed, and
-r that the hotel
'ortunately in the
circus where cock-
L the poor corpse
K'h were assendded
esent at the inter-
lis country and his
roken with grief.
11 this solidarity of
ler the last duties
r known, hut who
■ii- mother-country,
ith after death.
,rv 1 have learned,
axiniii de ? wu,
with his vonngi i' Itrofher, occupied in fh(> elevated sjihcrc
of thi' military hicrarcliy a distiiigiiislicd nmk in the
French ariiiv. Mashfuhiess, vexation, disiip|ioiiilinent
caused liy failure in life, made him rlirow the handle after
the hall lut, and thi' [loor ril— - -, an oM scliolnr of the
I'olytechniquc School, cuphiin of engineers, led a misi'rahie
existence, without hope, without any means of escnpe,
ex<H'pt ill suicide, of whica la- often -poke with the suin/
fmiif ol' a determiiu'd man. He owed one yeur'H hoarding
to the keeper of the hotel, nn hoiu'st Frenchman, who di(l
not Vent (ire, knowing his |ioverty, to put him in mind of
his (1 ' .ook care of him through charity.
Til .•tfiii was pliiccd in a lliit heurse, drawn hy a horse,
ntid at midnight we ari' on the road to the cemetery. Thi'
driver of the hearse, a jteon with a poncho on, walks along-
side of the horse, the poor heast stiimltling at every step.
Th(( roads are had, and hilly. ITe fiills down. Wo raise
him u[K A little further on, one of the straps hrcaks.
We stop for the purpose of arranging it. Tiie harness is
tied together with twine. We were so foolish as to ])ay
the coachman in advance for liis journey, and this is the
Avay we are servcil for it. AVe are sto])ped again. This
time it is the halter which has hroketi. The peon informs
us that the horse will not he ahle to go further. While he
is })retciidiiig to sweat hlood and water (to make strenuous
oxertioiis) to arrange the harness, I examine this jieon. lie
is a tall, hrony.cd, roguish fellow, clad jiroudly in a reddish
poncho, to which the hour, tlu' scene, the hearse, tlu' light of
the moon give u liintastic aspect. The French consul has
employed him. lie is a good workman, hut lu' cannot con-
tent himself to stop in the workshop. 'vDo you see," said
he, with a pleasant seriousness and an innocent impudence,
"• I have been one of the executioners of R , and I have
not killed a few in my life before undertaking to bury
tliem. I have done it, and, frankly, I can only live with
thedead."
The harness is too old and the horse too fatigued. The
eoachman makes us wait, and the delays are so numerous
that a good old French Jiasque proposes (after having eased
his conscience by addressing in French some /a/(« words
to the coachman, who does not understand one word of
SOTES OF A riASlST.
I)
i'i
with liirt cDUiiuiny. it i^ a nignmiaic.
to-iiight.
ClIArTER XXX.
TiiP dofiort of Atacania oxtoiulH from the const of Chili
J/i J^li rfho tromc to Bolivia, a distaiu-. of ht y k-ajruos.
1 i t ho;ncmnl«h.sof Ata.atna th,^t the vu'host h.Wo
• 1 V-.f n.ili is found— ' a Uiu'iui Kspiranza. It VNas
,K.,„.ly .eventyfivo m.l hon- o l™.;- J ^Xl 'o. tan,--,
'""1" *;r,Z;£ ™h ...l -^ '»<- .■kl,c,.i„oe.fr,m.
IcilometiT. acroHS the deser . 1 hesitata u ^^^^
an excellent carnaK'C and two 1'or.c,' «^^^ ot JN
i' n .k in the ?veninff. The weather was magniheent. La
5Siiee?.e'?»«*«H«e-'
\h(' cart to tlio
Uiil tlu'iv we iiiv
• tlu! iiilial»itaiitrt
•(lint' out t>ti tlio
h hart (Ml WW tlio
H- (lialU'l Ol' till!
I, and the cUKtoin
A totii'riiiu; <»l(l
■nrt thi' (hx)!', and,
door and iTUiainrt
1 tthull not t*lt'i'i>
the const of Chili
CO of fifty IcajrucH.
the richest silver
s\H'ranza.' It was
d has yielded very
It now yields an-
TiiilUons of francs,
riches, since from
the galleries it can
er, a French engi-
i during my short
to pass some days
.iapo is a liundnd
ed ; but he sent lue
Olio of ■which was
led the one in the
ys upon the route,
left Copiapo at six
ras magiiitit'ent. l^a
revolver (in case of
! diseovered that the
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
k
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^:/-
1.0
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HIM IM
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1.8
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
L1>^
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V
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23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
ru^
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CIHM/ICMH
Microfiche
Series.
CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.
Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques
- iiiir» mmmtMimmmm
THE DESERT OF ATACA.UA.
457
13c-
pistol had been stolon from him thc^ evening before.
8i(h's, one is rarely attacked.
llanlly are we ont of Copiajio than we find onrselvcH
already ni that oalearoous dust, wiruh ha.s the colour of
sand, and which is so fatiguing to the eyes, ^\'e enter inty
a gorge. AVhat horrible aridity! Xot a blade of grass.
Tlie niountains seem to bar the ])assage to ns at every
moment, so near do they approach each other; but we
wind around them. The groun<l becomes tlat, and in a
small plain we perceive some little hovels of dried mud
and their pachlocks, surrounded with walls also of dried
mud — the masonry work of which, made of great scpjare
blocks, recalling that of the Assyrians, gives vaguely rise
to thoughts of Biblical ruins, \o which the gray, Iturnt
country and the red rays of the sun add the aspect of a
Biblical land. There is a well here, Avliich exjilains the
few united hovels which arc called ' J'ueblo de Indios' (In-
dian village). No industry, no labour; we see now and
then a eluld, wlio looks at us passing with an astonished
air. The lather and mother, lying lazily in front of the
cabin, halt naked, are sleeping or forgetting tlitmselves in
the f'lr nicntf, the former of them smoking a cigarette.
As for the rest, the earclessness of these people is favoured
by the climate. It never rains ; it is never cold. AVhen
there is nothing more to buy cigarettes with, the father
makes a great effort and goes to work, eitlier in the town
or at the mine, and, when ho has earned a few dollars, ho
returns to slumber, to eat, to smoke his cigar, and life thus
flows onward for tlicra without any event, without suffer-
ing, like a sleep.
The last houses of Pueblo de Indios' have disappeared.
"We are entering into the desert, of Atacaina. The moun-
tains open before us ; their chains stretch themselves out
instead of surrounding us, and rise on each side of a long
narrow plain, like a wall, a sort of palisade, the top of
which, illuminated by tne sun, renders more sondtre the
first tints of twilight which begin to descend into the plain.
The eye gazes in vain over this immense fiat and gray
surface.
Our coachman looks often behind him. We discover
two black points which detach themselves from the hori-
39
yOTES OF A PIAMST.
tins cMU-ountor, h.hI not l'''\" -' * ' .'.tv in missunng our-
a,-awu,jr near. ]5.s.les w. ' ^^^^^ ';^^,;" ^V to the^n^Ut
selves ,m sooin.ii tho Uv.. l'''^^^'";. J^v are l()st t.) vk'W.
„,l iHu-y themselves u. a ?"; J, , f^l^^nte h>^ the gorge
We areerossh,j^niK,nom k.t.m a^^ ^^^^ ^^.^.^^^ ^.^
(,f Taxepote. The nni.l i> ^^/''/^'V^' ' ,^.,ia.n> vises over
-yin, roa<l ior tl-'o - n. ^^ ^ --,^, ^Vom the
i'ri<nueiits ot rocks, amiu ii n<i>v^ •
,,;mntaius, a ehaos, ^' ^''^ '^^',ii:{^,n.y..r mine. Our
The.-e -Z^^--;^^^'^!;:!^;; \h;:.i; a illl, an.l a hovel
first relay is at ( hile. i ik t. ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^,^
inhahited hy a Cho O l-oon, ^\\ * , :^'"^^.; ;',,,t., Uulen Avith
''''-'' "T'' '"T\'':'"hi^a"^iom'^weektoCopia,o
ai-ovntilerous stones a\ huh '^^ ^ . ^ ^ ^Ve pereeive,
to1.e worked <>.'>^^-"^^^f\\'^\^,{ ^ '^av k^ Vike aVromon-
on the point ot a mountain ^^^^ ,,^.,,,,, ,,.J ^ssassi-
torv hefore U8, a croBS. At t at ^h t a ^^^^^_^^ .^^ ^^^.^
i.ated hy his <^<>^'n'a'>^:^'\/' ^^ ;;,, 1 , traditions of the
region to discover a inme spoken on ^^^^^ ^
Indians. They found ^ ;,;^.,,^;? 'l'^.,tahlished landmarks
ohserved the country ^^'^ .^ "V ?;;,';;;' t,v carefully con-
to lind again the place ot ^^^ ^l^ ^^^ ,,o oth^ per-
eealed the entrance ot ^¥'^T;^^^^,^^ry,nnd took the
son might <li^l'''^^'^^'V'^^ nt iuL^^^ thev should
road i^-r Copiapo, ^^ J^''';;' .,^ ^^ ^^ ,^
iumuHliately i;resent the ^ J^''"^ '^^ ^ ^ ,,,{ i,,ve the pro-
privilege of «^^-:*>7'->V;^'l' ■ J;^ ^^e n tel hv the demon of
>erty legally n^^p^ ^ - J^ J,,, the .diole
c-up ditv, one ot them. ^M■ nmg returned to Copiapo.
But Ills virtim wasuot clo.ul, ',..',,■ ,,^i„„ the iiu-
one of these Chilian 1'^?^^'^', ! V^; ,,,na, and di.l not
i*^ifl
THE LOST MiyE.
459
gallopiiia;. The
t'ertiiiu (U'jiroe of
it lull" ivirivtting
riie linfsc'Uion are
in roassm-ing oiir-
V oft" to the rigUt
■y are lost to view,
■ntt'ring the gorge
It I ain Nvrong \n
arriag«! rises over
I down from the
copper mine. Our
a well, and a hovel
ic horses and mules
earts, laden Avith
a week to C'opiapo
mle. ^Ve pereeive,
nees like a promon-
i miner was assassi-
set at work in this
he traditions of the
•ich. After having
ahlished huxUnarks
, they earefnlly eon-
'r that no other per-
eoverv, and took the
o law, they should
atones, and claim the
e, and have the pro-
Mted hv the demon ot
'sess alone the whole
returned to Copiapo.
time to drag himselt
l)efore dying the un-
iiame of 'his assassin.
I, and, jumphig upon
cm never to tire, he
■Vtacama, and did not
iself and his pursuers
tlie Cordillera of the Andes and the frontier of the Argen-
tine Ki-])ul)li('.
The mine lias since passed into the condition of a legend
known to all the old nuners. It has detied all their re-
searches; they have never heen ahlc to find it. The miner,
condenined to death, lived many years in the Argi'ntinc Ke-
]nd)lic, and on many occasions sent to his friends a rough
]ilan which he had made from memory of the mountains
around the mine, and added that the sun was on his right
at tlie hour for the Ave Maria, while he was close to the
mine, an<l that hefore tiight he had had time to go to Santo
Kosa, hut these vague indications starved only lo i'urther
end)arrass the Catadores, who have finally given it up.
liesides this there are many celehrated mines which liave
heen lost since the conquest In' the Europeans.
Our hoi-ses begin to pant horribly. The road is infernal.
We are bounced to the roof, we are thrown from right to
left, tossed about, etc. etc. The road becomes Pmoother,
the stars and moon lighten up a circular valley which is
surrounded by high mountains. A light before us I It
is a lighthouse in the desert, it is the lantern of the hovel
of Chulo. The liorses neigh-— the i)oor beasts smell the
stalde — a dog barks in the depths of the valley upon our
left. I cannot describe what a singular charm 1 find in
these noises which banish in a moment all the soml)re
clouds Avhich the aridity of the country, the solitudes of' the
desert '•f Atacama, and the recitals of assassination which I
had Just heard, ofnmrders committed by miners, had evoked
in iny mind. The hovel is preceded by a shed, under which
the peons sleep, .ind around which the horses, nudes, cov s,
and goat.s wander at liberty. There is in the interior but one
inhabitable chamber. It is reserved for us. 1'— — yester-
day sent to inform the innkeeper about our coming, which
explains the luxury which is displayed. IVo wax candles
are on a Avhite wooden table; the walls are covered with
illustrations of the Correo d'Altramar. A large man, whose
alxlomen, jioorl}' restrained by pantaloons which reach half
way down his legs, and jiermit his shirt (evidently ])Ut on
in honour of us) to SAvell out like a smock-frock — naked
feet, humble fat face, subdu"d, timid, and jovial, bids us
welcome. He loses himself in salutations. lie evidently
NOTES OF A PIASIST.
U with uU the respect . nc ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ l^,,,,,i i\th hhn,
he does hisbest HO that ^ ^^^^.^ '^ ^; > ' ^ us a beefsteak of
The good man \"t'''-:;;^, ' -^ j'f l^gfa^d goats' milk. We
fresh meat, be ^''^^,;; r ' J^^^l tTo meafis quiekly served
have a raveiiou^^ appetite, '^i; ; ^ ^' ^ |^ ^iJe tlicrc is a
u , on a small white wooden t^^' • J;{' .^'^^ ^,^ ,„,i^eard of
^^t bedstead witli -^^^^i^! ^'e;^:^^^ ^is accnstomc^
luxury, but whi.-b rny tnv el la^ ex j,.^^.j^^.„, it
xno to'distrust. ^^^^f^^^^^^^^.^ts plaited Btraw. The
is a shed ^•*>v^''-'^'V' <^.t of imk upon whieh are burning,
iireplac-e,alargetragnientotioeivU ji,^,^^ gome
Eetiveen' two largo ^^^^ .^^^ ^ ^d Tlie wife of the inn-
firebrands, branc-bes ot *;ly^<^;; "j;'^^^, ., i^rge piece of beet,
keeper euts some ^^/^j^^^^* \",:f,,i ""/c'lion! in it (tbey put
are to set out again '^^ one o dock ^i ^^^
moon, altbougb only, in t e ^i^t Jiar , ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^
enough ligbt for our )ournej - Ji^^^\ ^^^^ ^ i.^o again,
Sl^^XllSl^rll^^cT^iutbedeUevenm
tell him that bis ^'<^^'^f^^,'L':''S^^^ he replied, "I
" Have you any cottee,^ J.^^7made the coffee bimse f.
have some Costa Rua. .^^ '"- etensions. I believe bo
^^^^rSri:^^,Ioannot^^
sipping it. ^ The. goat s milk ^; ^ "f^{^^^^^^ uk-a how
hive excellent cigars ^^^ ^'^ ^^^ "^^ ^^ hovel, with the
well off we are, seated on tue bui u
starrv heavens above us.
(Uutinished.)
tUit!^:^'
DETAILS OF MAXy£IiS.
461
Carlos ^the director
sent hiin onlcrs to
lis, nnd to outertam
,t" liiifU iinportaiK'O,
|,e i^loasc'd with him.
■ivc us a bootstealv ot
(I troatrt' milk. We
niriH quickly served
1 each Hide tlicrc is a
tress, au ui\heard ot
iouoe has accustomed
: at the kitchen. It
i)laite(l straw. The
u which are burning,
e for andirons, some
The wife of the inn-
a large piece of beef,
onions in it (they put
icularly not to drown
L of the kitchen. We _
it is now ten. ibe
'luarter, will give us
des the natives ot the
, to find a place again,
5 in the desert, even in
an is evidently worried
ws may pass upon his
ace brightens when we
" « Yes," he replied, " I
lade the coffee himselt.
tensions. I believe ho
cotfee-maker, than tliat
express it," said Billet,
^gether exquisite. We
,ardly have an idea how
of the hovel, with the
TALDEiiA, riiili, Aiiril 12.
The incidents which occur in a tnivi'lhng artist's cari'cr
arc almost always the sanu-. Tlicv ai iirstsci'in interesting
through their novelty, but as tlity are constantly repi'atcd
tliey j)ecome a i)art of the monotony of tlie daily routine.
It is true, that, for foreigners who are not acquainted with
these co(mtries, there are at every stc[i, in the nutst ordinary
things, in tlie smallest details, apparently inditl'crent, a
thousand interesting olwervatic'ns and curious studies to
take notice of; but for myself, whom habitude lias reiidi'i'cd
callous, and whose curiosity lias become deadened, i dis-
cover nothhig here which does not seem to mo normal,
and it is only by recalling my remembrances of Kiirope, l)y
the comparison of the manners of the old world with tlioso
of these societies hardly 'it the commencement of civili/.a-
tion, that I can seize on the picturesque or barbarous side
of the men and things which surround me. I no longer
keep my journal so carefully. The constant rejietition of
the same incidents tires me by its monotony. To arrive,
to pass through the invariable routine; visits to the editors
of daily papers; to the artists — to smile obsecpiiously,
efforts of mind and body ; in one word to perform all those
manoHivres which are indisi)ensab]e to the artist's success;
prejiaratory seances before some judges of the elite; t() ])eg
for the good-will of pretentious and all-powerful fools,
are the preparations on arrival. I pass over the mechani-
cal ].art, the concerts. More folloAVS the deiiarture with
the insejiarable accompaniment of adieus, of bills to settle,
trunks to pack, and a otra parte eon la mtislea.
Life at Co])iapo is dull and tiresome generally, but it is
jiarticularly so at present on uccount of the approach of
Lent.
1867.
Left Copiapo on the twenty-sixth of April at four o'clock
r. M., and left Valparaiso again on the thirtieth of April.
Great animation on board. All the highest merchants
come to accompany E , who is married this morning
with a young German girl, Miss . I disappear for
39*
I
4<;-2
yOTKS OF .1 HAS 1ST.
tlnv. .lavs, .Innng ^yhu■h \^.. '^^l^. ,, ^■,, is pl.^.s-
,,„t. W. shall i.ass tl.rouuh ^ '* \, ■ j^-.a, tuUowc..l
^v^tlHmt int.m,,.tiou >y ';^V' ai ni-^^^^^ inhalntaut.
u ,lc-solat.. <'''V'>»'^V,''' V /v tl l<v ' tn-av, tlu- .•oUin-
Tlu. w^atluT is c.oia nud J^V^ ;^ " .^^^i j,^ ;:.late nature
Klill i.K.ivsaa. '^^^V „, Lf..i s This c-oast s unilurin,
Htrait. AVo must Mraye '^ ' ^ 1 f;^^,; ' l^^vhi.-h luakcs tho
task ..fvih'tuig very dittuult, ;*^ ' ' ^ j • , ,f ,,f the
sun. Hurrah '' J' ^^^'^''IZv'i^^l^^^ thc.c.l.trauce.
,varas the strait, ot ^^Inch ANJ^at k t a^ . t u ^^^^^^
The two shores 'nTI-<>'*''l^^,^'^'^V .f rn 1 AVo i-ereeivo
country is still '^-''^'J- ^^';;.;; ^l "^"five lU.te.l hy
a little smoke -, jP, ^ ,^ nul ci'Wese desolate re^.M^
souieTn<lian. \^y^'''} T ..vnro theFue<nans. nhahi-
ave nonm.ls, and leroeious 1 h « « ^hc Uu ^^^^
tu,itB of Terra dol ^.'^r^;; ^''^ 'J v^Lx- ses a nulitary
Htunted very "f,; ;^^^'^;^ J ;, 'f^ L\\ ho there to nu.r-
ponal - ;;:'{,;^i.l;^^ 1^ u^ vorv dangerous ^ve shall st.n>
r"' 1 Thc^ i:, s as snuH.th i^s a ndrror, the sio^etaelo i.
BtiU more gl(K)my. We cast anchor.
May IS.
It i« tlic -'ova-mn- ot the colony, .\1 . 1>1«W. i c
L'u- w/havo not -"-xr; ::: .'s-trii;;; hwVot
Our (Iwirc to si'O tlic "<ap'm »'» • "^^ b1,„i-cs «liu-l>
„c.ti,,g otMhj. ..v^o;- a ;; - ;:;„,f,; -„^:;,„ ,;„,v the
t^'is: -iu;'f';u:'.'J:^.rJ';l «. ..,eea„oe .m
Tin: rn-:(iiA\s.
4G3
rli tlio old tnrtuvos
viiiivHolai'is plriis-
it (if liiiul, 1ull(.wi4
IS regular ami lialtl,
mi'O of inlialtitaiit.
is gray, tlu" rolling
his desolate uaturi'
tlieeiitranee ol'tlie
his coast is unil'oriu,
>ye,Avliieli makes the
<%ve have against v.s
ig the heii-iit of the
,ng at full npeed to-
i. fomid the entrance,
little hy little. The
crnal. AVo i.erceive
hly afire lighted by
these desolate regions
theFuegians. inlialii-
of lire). They are
possesses a military
(hall 1)0 there to-mor-
iirurous Ave shall stop
ifrror, the spi'ctaclo M
,\vy tops of the moun-
crs the siiles of thcui
May 18.
•an distinguish a few
t anchor opposite the
and comes out to us,
. Kiobo. He comes to
L-ncc for Tunta Arena.
s suggests the idea_ ot
to go*on shore, Avhich
L'ondescension, i>nly the
r than the caiiacity ot
1 divide ourselves into
ist left ; the canoe will
return for us at seven o'clock in the evening. The chap-
lain of the colony, a Francisciui in frock and hood, conii's
to go on hoard. An honest Kngli^hniaii naively asks if lie
is a I'atagonian.
We arc embarking in the canoe, the governor accom-
panying us. Wo are passing before the Spiteful, an
Knirlisii corvette which watches the coast and takes
soundings. A few days ago two of the otlicers embarked
in a canoe with which they ]iroceede<l along the coast in
till' latitude which we had just passed. Nhmy Fucgians
came to meet them. The oiHcers otlered them some
tritles, buttons, handkerchiefs, etc., to conciliate them,
which they accepted with marks of contentment, but when
the oiHcers turneil towards tin- shore to rejoin their canoe
the Fucgians undertook to [jrevent them. A fight took
]ilace; the two otHcers were armed with revolvers and
killed several rndians, but tlii'y received a volK-y of arrows,
two of which woimded them Vi-ry seriously. 1 have ha<l
an opportunity of examining these arrows, they are very
small, the en<l is a pointed stone and is very >liglitly at-
tached to the wood, so that when an attempt is made to
draw them from the wound the stone remains behind.
These Fucgians are cannibals. Some yciirs ago the
governor of the colony, a German, Doctor riiilliiii, was
killed and eaten by them.
A\"c land at a fpiay which the governor has just coii-
structed. The night is dark, but the stars are shining,
I camiot explain with my jien the strange feeling which
I experienced on landing on this Austral land one hundred
miles fnmi Cajte Horn, in tiie Strait of Magellan in I'ata-
gonia, at the antipodes of civilization.
The governor, Mr. Riobo, has ]iassed many years in I'iiris.
He is a i)erfectly polished gentleman, who performs the hon-
ours of his little kingdom like a man accustonu'd to the best
society. He precedes us on the road. The_ ground is
eovercil with short hard grass; it seems as if we were
walking on a car|tet. We'hear the noise of some voices ;
it is fnun a group in the darkness on the road. " Who goes
there?" it is the passengers by the first canoe returning on
board after havhig explored the whole of the colony.
" L am taking you to the palace of the government," said
404
XOTFS Of A riAMST.
\iv T!i,,l». W.' C" "I'll I'ii:''' "'■ "'''I'" t""."*'^^* "!'""'
„iu. Imiidivl .liiWivi. uimI 1V..M1.-M, 111.' l«ilm;.' >' "' .
■i" in.l .ssil.ililv nl- mjll.t has .■.lax,.! '."!"■''",,'"
s ..-.0 ..•i.l.v.ki.m- some very i.retty little dwart n>ses but
V] .t .. • n e The -mve rnor h.trodnoes u.s to his com-
, aocnt fcUn» wl.Wh the t-""""'"' „r:;,«;j^ .'.^ f .^^
:?;r "i.ti,x^™ ;r <^:i™.i^^t' ub;;^;!^.e „a,,e
hull down with one blow and bites Inni.
ife governor escaped by a miracle from one of the t^^o
r.
j.rt to ii strcot al)<>ut
L't't Maria, ftc, tVom
:ato. Tliiri Htrcft "h
ousi's. It is I'mita
laUitaiits, aivi«K'<l in
I' tlio rcjiular tmops,
ic lialanci' (MUiiiiosfd^
iirt sohlic'fs ii'uilty of
■IS, l)hu'ksiniths, otc.
laxi'tl miicli of tho
u; KiiLcli'^liiiiaii (tluTo
[\e criilian navy who
asrturc'rt 1110 tliat lie is
•srcr than iho others,
i7(1imI with a wooden
nicnt. The governor
and whistles. In a
eh peenied aBk-ep is
idl. The Inirraek is
ir from the depths of
iidiers with lanterns,
onU'i-s. We traverse
lisrlit of a lantern, we
r Rttle dwarf roses hut
roduees us to his eoni-
o two little Anieriean
mals, wliieh, althongh
L'tty claws and teeth,
! dispositions of these
proposes to shut up in
Tlu'y are of the size of
ing at liberty, one laale
a body the colour of a
long,"remiiiding one of
le flesh is delicate and
[ the llamas. It only
fensive, and is very for-
n its assailant, knocks
him.
•le from one of the two
rATAGOX/Ays.
405
nniniids at wliicli we are looking. W'lun the gnanaeo U
furious, he t'jects a greeiii>h s;ili\ a', wlii.h is very iini.leasant.
.S'pjirated from the i\M of the world, the jVovenior has
<le^•oted himself to the well-heing of his little'co|,,i,y. His
<'oMn.iinii<'atioiis Milh the rest of the world heiiii; uuvvr-
tani, It s(.nietiiiies happens tliat for entire months he is
without news from Chili.
(lame is very ahiM.daiit. ( )slricli.s and Lnumacos ahound.
A.lmiial y , who lately passed thh.iiiih the strait,
aiimsed himself for some Ik. ins, with jiis oilicers, in l,ii,,t-
mg, and they tilled a eiinoe with their i:aiiie.
The governor showed us some speeiiueiis of eoal, which
appeareil excellent; also some fragments of atiriferoiis
(luart/. found in the mountains of I'atiiLronia.
I5iit 1 hasten to arrive at the most interesting episode of
our visit at i'nnta. TIk' goveriK.r law sent for' a liimilv of
I'atagoiiiaiis. J cannot deseriho he impression which these
singular heiiigs caused me. The first group to which we
are introduced hy the governor, is conniosed of tlirir men
and one young woman. The rir>t, one in particular, id
very nmcli ahove the ordinary height, hut is not uiirantic.
Ihat which is particularly strikini:-, is tlu' prodio-i,'Mis de-
velo]mieiit <.f the bust, the leiigtli of Hie arms,' and tho
onormous size of the head and icatiires. The nos(> of tho
largest is at least ono-third larger than thelarirest Kurojiean
nose that I have ever seen. The liead is enormous, hut not
monstrous. Tho features are in iJi-ojiortion to the lieacL
As to tl;e woman, she is at least six feet liiuh. She is a
young girl ..f fourteen or fiftei'ii vears, admirahly jiropor-
tioned, slender, with a marvellously heautiful lace; (irocian
statuary in its purest expression liiis never formulated anv-
thjiig more beautiful. The mouth ex(piisitely chiselled, of
bright red, reveals on opciiiui; ihe whitest, most iiolished,
and tho prettiest teeth that I have over seen. Kamicha is
the most colossal and the most beautiful girl in the world.
Ihit here 1 am very much embarrassed in front of this
beautiful Caryatide, who tendei-s me a charming, thoiit>-h
large, hand, and shakes with a co(piettish movenient of I'Pcr
head her cojiper ear-iiendants, of Avhich she seems to ho
particularly proud. How shall I undertake to tell it youV
Kanucha, the beautiful girl, is a handsome boy! 'The
^^,^^ .Vo77;.SC>/'.l /"M.N7.ST. .
♦ lU ,n.. U' U a vouth tl>at all th. \\iUv^<^n\nm
,,,,.„.,.l.v »l...iU.'. In "I'l"'"" ' ■,■„ „.l.i.-li H iH'M.l.-iv.l v.'i-y
''^'■''''t"'\\T;^„.!;■';;Tli^^■^ '""■•••'■'"-''' '''■'■'■•■'■'■''''^
lasti'ii oil the cla^st, I.} a ''' c ,' L-,,, , ,1h. coia, wliwli
y-V "l-; ^'^,; !;;.n\:u'! a;;";Us:rasn.U.las .la.lr
li.iuor^ ivpivsri.t llu m /'"'^ ,,.,.,..1,;,, '• It is not a ram
,;,|, , ,,.„tle <.f bnualy -'^^f^^^XT^vi^-s consent, the
,,,., to HOC a '- ;^;:;i,;;^ ,;.r -tain ti.no, to pro<.n.v a
latter to one ol_ y'V'.' " V ,' ,„, .„» ..tf to swallow innnc
low bottles, wiach both ot lam ^^^^
aiately. Tbcy are not 1' ;■=';'; .- "^,,,1 the Jol.l is too
1-- <>^ ^!r;r'l^:r;h;: S r ol^^aKu .man. groups,
Hniall. lla>y ll^^ ^i'* "^ ,vli.r-u,n. Family ties even
l„it without ^-vc-rnnu t h .- > ^^J ^^^,,, „,,.,„.
have no ^"^^'^^enee, s.neo xe > t^H ^^ . ^^,,„i,,,,
hers of a gnmi. will ' y- ' \;, ,„ ,irunk they bc-
Their eliarac^er i^^cuc 1 U U -t ^^^^^^^ ^^.^^^ ^^^^ ^. ,^^^^,^
eoino ieroeious \\ Ian ans en .^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^,„^
everything -bu-h bc^..^'< - \^;^\^ Umeaiately eate.j
his grave. The tlesli ot the m | .nnbitions, of all
l„.,uii for tho same vm^f^;- . y a bowiuI «<|ua.l
m'K\os A runs.
407
11 tin.' ruta^'otmiiw
f ,1 woiiiati, tlivwrti'rt
nctrt liK« <"'*'• ,^
(.iiicii, ^vll■u•U tlu'V
l-oriolis iicin'lii""irs,
Ai irt rc'iult'icil yi'iy
oldssiil iir(«i»irtl()ns.
^ of Dili' <>i" K'Vt'nil
■1, is turiinl iiisid*'.
\\]\\r\i tlu' woiinii
j.iii, iiiitl AvliifU i-<
iiir llu' ••olil, Avlii'li
.r a triiikot nn>ui\(l
r I/iki- all liKliiitis
k. Ki)i-tlii'iuar«Uiit.
H.'l.iiu'ss. Tlu'V I'l-e-
i.j;. It is not a raro
c will's coiisiMit, the
11 tiiiio, to i>r<)fiiri' a
If to swallow iiiuiKv
,1.1. ThfV imvIVt tho
r,nn<l llu- ir-'l'l i^ ^•'•■>
|rt_iu Hiuall •!;roui>s,
. Family tics cvoii
tly one or two luoir-
ior a time; another,
when drunk they hc-
-• them tlies, they l)iiru
l{ kill his hoi-rtc upon
is immediately eaten.
heir amhitions, of all
:ed U'e if 1 would not
. Tliey are going oii
\id. A seeond s(iuad
■en, Nata, a woman of
several children : her
1 of prey, gives a hard
niipearance to hrr eimniions liicc, luit on cxiiinination ono
dis<'i)\(rs a mild and chiinninu; exiire-sion in it. 'I'lio
tratiires |insscss all iidiniraltle purity. She larrii's in her
anus a little one, a liahy of iil'teeii months, us large as u
child of tell years of age, wliosc roltiist hody, iiot\>ith-
stamrmg the eold, is <()m|iletely naked.
Hi'KN IK AviiKK. .Iniinnry IH, 18(5S,
Notwithstanding tlie heat (one hiiiidreil ami six degrees
jvhove the /I'l'o of I'ahicnheit's theinicineter), iiotwitii-
standing tlie war of raragnay, which liiis already co-t the
four hclligi'reiit parties nearly two hniidrcil thousand iiu'ii,
three-foiirlhs of whom liave heeii di'stroyed hy ehoU-ra,
typlius, dysentery, and pestilence; iiotwith.-tamling the
eommeri'ial crisis, tnic of the lirst etli'cts ot' which lias
hooii at Montevideo the enforeeiucnt of a baper eiirreiiey;
notwithstamling the civil war in tlie interior provinces of
tin- rc[inl»lic-, notwithstanding the invasion of the frontiers
hy Saa, Varela, and 1 know not how many other hrigands
wJH) live only hy rapine, and whose title of general, which
ihey assume, would not in any other countries than these
save from the gallows or the galleys which they have a
thousand times deserved; notwithstanding nil tlk'sc calami-
ties, the company of I'arisiaii hoiitles, liroiight to l'>ueiios
Ayres hy Mr. D'l lote, lias made its dehiit at the Argentine
theatre in the havards of Otrenhaeh.
I siis[iect that the Latin ]iroverh ir. wrong for once- and
their audacity will not, I tear, ho crowned with success.
The company is, however, far from heing unworthy of rhe
puhlic tiivour. ^hldemoiselle 11 , the prima-donna, is
jirctty and sings well; Mr. K., the tenor, is an excelK'iit
actor; Mademoiselle 15. ilanees jiretty well, and has fine
legs; Mr. D'llote himself is a splendid coniie actor. Hut
tlu'se ladit's and gentlenu'ii had not even seen the footlights
of the Argentine theatre hefore they knew to what cause to
attrihute their non-success.
February 3.
My health is ])assal>le. T have had to go to the conntiy
to escape the cholera which was here. Almost twenty-eight
thousand persons have died of it within three mouths.
4G8
XOTES OF A riASIST.
T. • hnvril.lo -rTn,..i1v it has almost disappoaml. Natn-
'lli; ti;;.re t no conoerts, every lamily be.ng m n.ournu.g.
February 11.
Volitioal events have l.rokon up the monotony of our
^tr not know if I have ^^^^^t:'::!^^^^^^^
Ins ims<kvas ^1'%^'^*'-/''':' V( ,,,,.,,. ^.t^loutevideo. ^n>aU
Fortunato llorrs, he is » * ' '^-^^^^^^ ,unue,whic-h,hy
and great trenibleou l^^'-^V^fJ;''!'-, 4V.t antithesis of the
a singukar chance, socnis to ^^^^^t^^, 1'^ ^^^J;"'; " Foutin.to
foroc-ious character o *^^,« ""', ^'ji , ^^^^^^^^ Since
F.ouKMit.mlWtnjnsl^ed.nc^
2::^:;! »a| to nie in. i^un^ons ..^^^^^^^^
the peaceable and V'<^«^■\>^;;■^\'^^4°;^i^
^vhom he had assassnuited, tl'7;^>^^ |;;' ...j^^.i^ hivariably
given to a Frenchwoman, »";\1^\;^*^. f^ ^s clmnco ihrei
Lmin..U.l l^^'^;;^;:,:^^i^;;;;:t^ it was easy h.
nic m fhe way ot tlie »"*^; ^1^ ■; 1 • 1 j^^. ^^oke to me that
n.o to see from the f^"^^ .X^^nSJ^^^ with n.e,but
he would have been happy to li'\^^l"'"^; the salutary
fear which the Unitul fet'it|s 1 ,-,i,>asure of m^t soemg
Lad its ei^ct ^H-n hiuv I had Jhej jj^^^^^^^^^
him draw his rcNuUei. ^."^^^"''^' 1... ..i^ycd for him ma
gentle with me, and ^^'''^P J'^'i^J^,^tVM by making
i^oncert the }f^^^^ ^ ,;^SShs a^o Mr. l^>rtunato,
a conquest othiin. ^-f^'-^' ,, V. ' x- .i,„ niinister of foreign
finding tanltwith the F'l^tKS.ot the mm _
affairs: went to his house «'^^^,f ^. ^"^.i^^^if k/'i.vser.ed
under the influence ot f ^^^"^ ,^ '^^^^^^^^
against a certain othcei% ho '^^ ;^T,^{^' J, ,,4,1, bayonets;
to seek him, g'^^roted hin> 1 ked him jw j ^^^^
^vith a choke-pear in his mout *" f '^^^^^ i^^o
,omtbrt of crying, l-^X-T^-i^-Sh2i without the
L::J^gS;-;» ; S^
FORTH SATO FLORES.
409
ppoar
c(l. Natu-
'm<l in niourmiig.
February 11.
monotony f)t' oi"'
, of the son of the
iu'(iuiiv(l through
lit. His nan If is
oiitcviiloo. Small
.1 name,''vhic-h,l)y
b antithesis of the
:'S it. FORTI'NATO
itc Flowers, Since
,iied respecting his
■(Uis extravagances,
the middle classes
le ear which he had
, which invarialdy
i-s. Chanco threw
o. It was easy for
c spoke to me that
relied with me, l)ut
erhaps, the salutary
11 all these tyrants,
?asure of not sceuig
IS hccome somewhat
)layed for him in a
I ended hy making
^agoMr.Fortunato,
niinister of foreign
m a caning. Then,
which he preserved
diers of his regiment
him with hayonets;
e from him even the
aclc on his neck into
ht hours witliout the
hhig to drink, or to
as l" ft there to die of
n- any one else in the
world woidd ever know whar had heeome ot him. _ Aiter
nianv other tortures he gave him a kick and sent hini ..n.
lie had already heeii ii'iiiltv of so many rohhenes, tiiat, in
^i.ite of the terror which he inspired, and of the number ot in-
dividuals which he ha<l with his own hand despatched t.. the
other worl.l, a General cry of indignation was heard troni
evervwhere, and the i-apa of this amiahle young man limti'd
to Kl.rtunato that State reasons recpured that he should have
a chan-v of air. He left for France. His exile was to last
two vears. He remained ..even days m Europe; and_ t wo
months and u half after his departure from Mc.utevidco,
what was the ceiu'va. consternation on sei'ing one tine moni-
i,,.^ Fortunato descend from the Knglish vessel arriving trom
Furopi". Soon after he betook himself to his old wavs.
Rest.uvd hy his own authority to the grade ot colonel, lie
he..-an to keep his hand in hy torturing his soldiers and his
otiic-ers. One niirht he took a fancy to mvite seveial per-
sons to supi-er. 'Ihinllyhad the dessert come on when lie
became, as usual, fiiriouslv .lrunk,an<l gave an ordt'r to liis
aid-decamp to seize his guests and send them to pass the
night in the guard-house. This took place at the hotel
wiiere 1 lodged.
The whole ni<>-lit the other hoarders and myselt were on
the alert liocause Fortunato had propose<l tiring his ].istol
in the corridors. He broke three hundred tumblers, as
many plates, all the lookhig glasses, and did ';ot retire
until exhausted hy drnnkenneh.- and fatigue he lett to go to
bed. His youngbrothers (the youngest is seventeen years
old) aoeomnanicd him that night as usur.l (they are also bad
like him, but less satiated than their elder brother), went
to an aristocratic club where they knew tlie i.ohtical adver-
saries of their father met ; as they anticii.ated, one ot them,
an hono'U-able and venerable father of a lamily, rich an<l ot
the bet.^'r class, was plaving at billiards at the moment
when they entered. Young Flores, the one seventeen yeai-s
old, struck him a hard blow with a cue which stretched him
on the tlour, pulled out some of his Avhiskers, kicked him m
the lace with his boots, and went away, leavmg him bathed
in blood and unconsciou:
Since mv departure f om Motevideo I heard at small
intervals the fresh mi >aeedd of Fortmiato and his brothers
40
iaSfal-3*»a^i;^i4«t^«^f'S^'^^^'^^' "
470
NOTES OF A PIAMST.
ppnkon of: srnio broken heads, women outraged, and other
similar pecoaailloes, hut no assassinations, leading mo to
hoi-o that these gentlemen were meiuhng. Ail at onee
tliree davs ago, thV^ i^uhmarine teleiirapli, wliieli erosses the
l)av andwuneets Montevideo andliueiios Ayres, l)nngs ua
tlie following news: Fortiuuiio and lii-s irothors luioc men
cuialnst t/n'irpif/>n;han'n<iiml am- the ,jarvisi,>,, and over-
turned General Flores, vho has been (M;<jed to ahandon he
t(„n> and has fled to Union, firo leagaex Jrom JJoiiterateo.
The details soon reaehed ns. Fortunato, tired ot the mae-
tion in whieh the old dietator left him, had had a very
exoited disenssion with him, at the end of whieh he boxed
hi.^ father's ear.s. Hurrying to his barraeks, he came with
his" brothers at tiie liead of his regiment and seized all the
posts, throuu'h the ef/wardice or the defeetiou ot those who
guarded them ; the whole band marehed to the Hotel de
Ville where Flores and all his family had fled. In vain
the old wife of Flores, a very vulgar woman, formerly a
washerwoman, whs^se blind idolatry for Fortunato is the
oidv souree of his had instinets, threw lierselt at the teet ot
this wreteh. " I do not know yon," he cried out to hen
« Do you for'^et," eried out to him the old general, that i
am not onlv your chief, that l)eforo being the first magis-
trate of the Vepublic, I was yom father ?" "Get out of the
wav," replied Fortunato tohiri,"or I irdJ^Pre vjwnyou
oil" And the little brothers, infuriated, brandished their
swo'-ds to excite their soldiers, for the most part drunk.
Poor old Flores, with downcast held, and strangling his
tears, retreated and fled, with some forty ^aithful tollowers,
to conceal himself, as I have said, to Union, and tlie whole
town remained at the mercy of the revolutionists. But the
fMvio-n population, which is.inflnitely more numerous at
lyh.nuvideo than that of the natives, Nvere justly alarmed.
Thev had a right to be alarmed a.^ such brigands, ihe
diplomatic corps met aiitl were deliberating as to what means
phouldbe taken to protect tlie propcty and lives ot tor-
eicniers, when the news arrived thav J ortunato had forced
tlie custom-house stores, and sei/A'd all :he boxes and hales
which were shut up there, to make barricades ot. 'J he
forei<^n miiiisters immediatelv transmitted to their respec-
tive admirals an order to land their troops. The Amen-
AUDACITY OF FORTCNATO.
471
outraged, ancT other
oiis, loading mo to
ling. AiTat once
1, whicli crost-os tiio
los Ayros, brings us
> bnythcrs hdoc risen
-• (jarrit<(>n, (ind ovcr-
'l<j((l to (ilxiiiildn til''
"*■ J'ro)a 3Joii(cri<U'o.
(), tii'cd of tho iuac-
iiu, had had a very
id of which /((' Imuc'I
•racks, ho canio with
it and soizod all tho
foc'tion of those who
lied to tho Hotel do
y had fled. In vain
woman, formerly a
or Fortunato is the
herself at the feet of
he cried out to her.
. old general, " that I
leing" the first magis-
r?" "Get out of the
<• I mil Ji re Vjwn you
ted, hrandished their
lio most part drunk.
1, aud strangling his
rty faithful followers,
LTuion, and the whole
•olntiouists. But the
ly more numerous at
were justly alarmed,
such brigands. The
itiiig as to" what means
orty and lives of for-
Fortunato had fore,.-.!
11 ;he lioxes aud bales
! barricades of. The
aitted to their respec-
• troops. The Ameri-
cans, the Italians, the English, the Spaniards, tbo Brazilians
disombarked and took possession of tlio custom-houso and
the legations. Fortunato, whose audacity has no limits,
votijiiii theiii to dislodge immediately under ]iain of seeing
themselves attacked by the troops under his orders. "Come,
if you dare," was the response of tlie admirals. The hero
found it wiser not to try tho adventure, and shut him-
self up in a little fort wbich li.' barricaded, and whoso
avennes were gnarded by cannons. Recovered from tlieir
panic, father Flores and his faithful followers rallied other
soldiers and foreigners. They retur.ied to Montevideo.
The attitude of the foreigners was too resolute for Fortu-
nato not to understand that he had lost tho game. lie
consented to a parley. The cunning follow had taken
care to keep as hostage an old man. General Balle, minister
of war, and signified that if his projjositions Avcro not
acceded to, he would shoot liis prisoner, and would not sur-
render until after lighting to the last extremity. Father
Flores Avas obliged to accei)t. TIk^ agreed not to take the
life of any of the rebels, to give tliirty thonsand dollai-s
to Fortunato, ,uid i)ermit him to embark, witii his otHcors,
without being molested, and since yesterday avo have had
tho honour of baving the celebrated colonel wii li us. I met
him yesterday in the street. I was hoping tbat bo would
not know me, but as soon as ho saw' me he'raii towards me
extending his arms, and Avilling or unwilling, 1 had to re-
ceive his hug.
CHAPTER XXXI.
February 13, 1808.
FoRTUXATO re-embarked the very evening of our ren-
contre. It appears that he assassinated a Fivncbman liere
a year ago, and the affair having boon brought to the notice
of tho Argentine government by tlie consul of Franco,
as soon as lie learned of the arrival of the celebrated colonel,
the latter found it more prudent to pack off. He is on
.J j^OTES OF A riASIST.
La an ItaUan ^^frf^:::'\Iel^^o:^^'^^^
t<Muo,-n>w by tl.e I'^'^^'f .^'^^ ^.^e"!; 1 -h I know he
possesses, lie will juielvl) ^"'^'^';/ ,,,,.., ,..ti„.. the iiiuonnn-
[n speakin.u' ofpo itics, 1 7.''' ' '<^^ .' 1^, l^"';. , ,a'lns oUl
ions fall of iTado, the ^^^; ';^ '\^.^ • 4'\'^: '^, l,,.,,! in to
aec.onn.lu-^ ni t^ J.VC u 1.1 ^^^^^^ ^^
arrive at l.o^\el, am 111.^ .;.,..! j before Arequ pa, m whu'h
turned and ^I'^ue^-l - ^^ .^^^^^^^^^^ W.\Un Inniseh
he showed huiisoU a^ tow auuy a-. > it„ :. „ ^yretch who
up to this time insolent ";»! dcsp t c He is a ^ c .^^^ _
his Indian, mulatto, and ^",'^'^^^,^',^^" '^^i.i't eir w(.rst
,nt has taken ^^^,^''t ^^nd'enmity sepa-
traits. I eordially dctc st in ^v 1 jespotism
rates l)oih of us. I 1»\^ .^^^^ V,^^ e ,1 son, one daV that
and barbarism, ""^.P^^^V-;^^:' ;^ ^ ^'e V my firmness, and
he sent twenty soldiers to ^iH^t "^^'/J J^.^ diplomat-
and dangerous countries .^^^^ ^^^^^^
In l'>oliv!a a J^^'^^^^ion has j st I u^Kc ;,^,^.^,.t,„,ate
furiously mad tK^i^^'^'^l^^lS'^^^V^^^t^^^^^^^^^ ropnbliesl
c..>untry for the Y^^^^oZm^h^Vr^^^V^^^^'^^''''^^
AVhat scorn and wluitont. age upon Tnci 1^ ,^,iaents
onuality, and ft^ternily are e^ '>i^\^^^ Justice, and
of domoeracies, who tiampi^ 1 ^^j,pituaes whu-h
lower empire I
Bden-08 Avhes, February 13, 18G8.
K -net Intolv died in a neighbouring village ; no one
A r^^est latel} (iieci 1 a .. ^ contagion.
man, always on l'^»-^tf'l« of ^^Vle rapine, civil war.
BAD rniJJSTS.
473
• Europe to-day or
,viU soon I'O epokcn
\vhu'h I know lie
kiiovvM. iL propos,
latinsi the itriiomiu-
jm, Whom liiri old
he euiiasicd in to
t Linur, have (nor-
Arefiuipa, in which
had Bh(j\vn himseU
He 19 a wretch who
blood in his veins ;
^eo8 only their worst
ersonal enmity seiui-
r from his despotism
prison, one day that
by my firmness, and
> myself he diplomat-
lie fear which these
is the only safeguard
1 find ill these hostile
•okcn out against that
or of that unfortunate
^rs. ^Vhat repnhlicsl
ic principles of liherty,
iiese pseudo-presidents
)n riudit, justice, and
lose turpitudes which
the saturnalia of the
Ayres, February 13, 18G8.
During village ; no one
fear of the contagion,
itrelying hody was SUCH
at some mode of pro-
A g;\ueh() (a couiitry-
,e existence is divided
•attle, rapine, civil war,
ea of making use ot his
lasso (the lasso is a strap of thirty or forty feet in length,
at the end of wliich is a slip-knot, which he throws iVom
his running horse to an incredible distance, and with which
he seizes oxen and wild horses either by the head t)r legs);
he threw the lasso, at a great distance, and caught the
body by one leg, and drew it to a distant spot on the desert
of the i'ampas, where he left it to the birds of prey, who
would soon desjuitch it. Do not let the character of the
dead add anything to the horror witii which this jii'ocecd-
ing will inspire you. The clergy have shown themselves
to bo what they have always i)een here — rapacious, cow-
ardly, corriii)t, hideous, egotistic, the receptacle, finally,
of ail the vices which are engendered by idleness, ignorance,
laziness, hypocrisy, and the imiiunity with which all their
worst passions are satiated. A few tiisters of Charity have
alone shown themselves, as always, devoted. They are, I
should add, Europeans ; but what could live or six good^
creatures do in the midst of a i>lague which has carried off
in three months twenty-five thousand souls V Those who
live among the English or the French Catholic clergy can
never know what a bad priest can he. The cassocke<l
bandits of South Americ-a must be seen to comprehend the
indignation which animates me.
Those of ]}uenos Ayres are authorized by law to collect
twenty francs for every corpse buried by them ; but the
law adds : "When the means of the family of the deceased
shall enable it to be paid." They saw that the harvest
promised to he fruitful, so they raised this right of sejuil-
turc to forty francs, and, like vultures, fatten ujion dead
bodies. The more dead bodies there were, the greater the
merry-making among them. Tiie municipality, learning
that a great" number of corpses were lying deprived of
sepulture on the ground at the gate of one of the ceme-
teries, the poverty of their relatians depriving them of the
luxury of possessing forty francs, gave notice to the gentle-
men priests that they must nothwithstanding bury them,
pro Del gratia (for (jod's sake). These worthy ministers
of a religion of devotion, of charity, and of poverty refused
to give extreme unction to those who did not pay in ad-
vance the expense of their future burial. What a race!
AVhat a )jeople! The people of the Argentine Republio
40*
NOTES OF A rHyiST.
;,„„, „„d ov..,v '-' ;X,r CWnnls vulture, luu-j.
„iv al)iuiilouo>l '>y.''"'*'' '^,^' „VhIio<1; cultiviiting litllo
,r.,\-lu.t, iu liou ;>=i«t: ^,''.':" ;,"& ,|,e„, to stall an ">-
•r;,c.r, au,l of the k"^";:^ ;- ^ ^^ i:!: ...u, !.l»mr ; the
.Vividual iu the back; "»«ttai^iui pnnc plurf winch
t a republic (ancmtrap^ou ^^^^^^ak u,ldcr which
t^>- wonl vop>..eut. ^^ ^ them a.^^^^ ^^ despotism urn
There are »^^V^\^'^-^.;Vii^"tff ine Republic. Alas I I
throat.-, aud ^l^i^^ /;. ^^^^ ,^^'^^\,,,,i,h.Am^ republicBj
rnight almost say, behold th^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ agglomera-
lbr:exceptChih,allthe go urn ^^^^^^^^ ^^ American
tiou3 of bandits ^'^^\f , ^"^'^^1,.^, republics, from Mexico
liberty, and ^vlu;;^^-^;^^^^^^^^ theft, barbar-
Buenos Ayres, May ^5.
The saddest country^in ^^^ -^jj^^^^^d^^f
itself "P to become an ox^-e;e»>^ ,omn4ces at the
tensions, a ^"^^^r\ 'S^cX m^^ reaches to those which
lowest round ot the l^^^^ f S^^" the place of everything,
are at the highest ^.^^^'^"^^^^^^^^^ amy a
the church a shop, tj^e gmgun ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^
cut-throat-only one woiblnp, on y ^^.^^^ ,,, tjie
riutus. Venus hersef IS not aaoie ' ,^^^j ^^^ ^^^er
MosTEViDEO, December 15, 1868.
SEVEN OCTAVES.
475
itudos, all cormp-
In thirt liiition ivll
(Irf, vultures, lmrj»,
; cultivatinj; littlo
ily, with tlu' brt'rtrtt
ill the use of tlie
thoni to stub an m-
111 from labour ; the
0(1 vrinciplert whieh
I cloak under whu-li
(1 of (lortpotism anil
le brazen-laced take
Ich-cow— the i.ubhc
■orful, Hhamelesrf, or
rl them from power.
loy cut each others
Republic. Alas! I
American republics ;
of these as?glomcra-
janner of American
publics, from Mexico
andage, theft, barbar-
anished.
Buenos Ayres, May 25,
Id, a frog that puifs
here exaggerated pre-
ich commences at tno
reaches to those which
he place of everything,
a barrack, the army a
■J one religion, that ot
,red, and even m the
ilv worshipi.cd under
liis takes place in the
rest. Sadl ->ad! The
3e, an odious farce.
rEViDEO, December 15, 1868.
tverand'Tarantelle'for
animent, which 'Taran-
tollo' I have dedicated to Tier Roval Ilii^hncaa the Priiicesa
Marguerite, of Italy. One of my best friends, Count ( Jioan-
niiun, an ext-elk'nt amateur ]»imiist, ex-minister from Italj-
to Jhienos Ayres, has promised to present the eoniposi-
lion to tlie princess, himself, and assun>s inc that it will be
■worth tl e new decoration of Italy, which has just been
nistitute«l by the king, Victor Eniaiuicl.'
I compose also a great deal for Ditson of Boston under
tbe pscudonyme of 'Seven Octaves,' and also for Scliott of
^hivence who asks ine for twelve pieces a year.
* M * « »
1 NOTE.
The composer having diorl before the presentation of tliis composition
to the I'rincoss of Italy, and evon before ho hai) entirely revised it, it
happened tliat, wlien after liis deatli his trunks w -e oi)ened and pilla^'cd
by tlie hands of strangers, and oven before liis family knt^w of his death,
the i)oor ' Tarantelle,' only written on a few detached leaves and very im-
perfectly, was pnldished i)y persons of very small scrnpler., in a state of
complete mutilation. Later, the intimate friend of (Jottschalk, Mr. N. R.
Espadero, of Havana, edited this ' Tarantelle' at the request of (Sotts-
chalk's familv, from the artist's manuscript, and Mr. Escudier, of Paris,
has publishell it for a full orch(!stra, also for two pianos, and with quin-
tette accompaniment. t^- "•
I .
CONCLLSION.
cclebnitotl artist, Loins 3ioi ui .„.,v l... miLlislu-.l at some
s:::;;::X^;t=^---'^ ^ "-
y,,,r of 1..3 life. ^^,j unexp<'ct.-.l blow
Uevc it. Ill fn.,n an attack ot X*^"-; '-"o ct -rt , wltb an
Bnll-K-i..n.ly recovercl to -'""".""''\'^;, .\f ," .If directed in
o..ehes.ra of nine hundred ---2: , 1- speak .ith
,,e execution of l.is -Uesma^^«^-^ '^ ^^^ ,,,.;,, ,, Kio
,,leasure of the nnmense .ucce.s « ' '^^ ,, ,^, ,,^,
Janeiro, and of tl.e kindness and ^"'^ ^^ ,^_ „, ,„„ to
• 1 . .1... i,!iliu-e bv the Emperor and l^mprths.
v"' "1: i^eve ylet^r evtraetl from the papers, whose eulog.-
'" "ILd rS a pitch, that it seemed impossible for them to
"" e e'rao^din^iy enthusiasm which the artist had excUed
-::;:::rweiiasU..e..^^
ners, and generous and good heait, wnicu
Mr l.,c.aU6 of «., a^-a f ^^^^^^^^^^^ «"= «"'"' "■"
towards the end of Decembt r, io»..', ^^^^
his death. , , .ilthou''h his family
Delicately as this death was announced, and althou„
(470)
N.
the diary kept by the
ilk, for 80 many y«'nrrt.
ay be publisbeil iit some
hicuna i'ound in the hist
len and unexpected blow
ed for a lonji time to bc-
•vor in August, 18(V,), ho
•ies of concerts, witli an
eh he himself directed in
The letters speak with
1 he was having at llio
siasm with which he was
nd Empress. He sent to
the pa\)era, whose eulogi-
ned impossible for them to
liich the artist ha.l excited
ce, his distinguished man-
,ich had caused him to be
the masses.
Bchalk, wrote to his sister-
th all the feeling which his
npathy for his sisters could
,f their much loved brother,
which his death had thrown
.(1 the illustrious artist alter
jed, and although bis family
COXCfA/SIOX.
477
wore in some sort prepared for a entastroplie, not having lind any
letters for two niontlis, it was a tlnmder-stroke, and one of those
griefs 8(1 profound tluit it is beltec to pass rai>iilly over this period,
in order to speak of tint extraonlinary events whieli followed it.
To tiie ninncroua h'tters addressed by the family to the |)livsi-
cian who hud attended Gottschalk, to the friends who hail sur-
rounded jiiiu with so nnich solicitude, to the landlord of tin; hotel
at Ti'juea where he gav his last sigh, to learn what had taken
l)laee during iiis last monieuls, no answer was ev<T reeeived. and
ui> to the jiresent time, by a species of fatality impossible to under-
stand, his family know absolutely nothing about his last nu)nu;n(s,
nor about the true cause of his death.
A number of excellent and devoted friends, at the head of whom
was the IJaron Vargeaud, wrote sympathetic letters to the family, in
which they deeply grieve.l for the amiable and distluj^uished man,
the mai. of feeling and intelligence as well as the great artist, all
adding that the city of Rio "had never been plunged into a mourn-
ing so profound ;" but no one satisfied the cruel 'oubts, tli<! terrible
anguish, into which the brother and sisters of Gotlschalk were
plunged.
To render their grief still more poif^nant a series of incompre-
hensible acts, in a country as civilized as Hrazil, followed with such
great rapidity, that whatever might have been the means employed,
nothing could arrest its course. Directly a faithless servant profited
by the confusion which the death of Gottschalk had occasioned (a
very different conduct from what might have been expected of him
after ten years of service), and endeavoured to give effect to a paper,
without any signature whatever, by which he claimed a large sum
by way of legacy. This demand not being considered worthy of a
moment's notice, he commenced a suit at law. The judgment was
against him. lie went so far as even to cause the oody of his master
to be seized when it was going to be carried to 'he steamer which
was to convey it to New York, where the family for six months had
been expecting it. Fortunately he failed. The friends of Gotts-
schalk, indignant at this outrage, succeeded through their united
eiforts in preventing his project, and the mortal remains of the
I
1
SOTES OF A riASIST.
A*7ft
• , „t Now York «t the l.o«n.n-,n,' of Ootolnr 1H70,
Rlmo«tftyenrntU'rh.8a.'atl.,cu y
cous..a v.l. to .Uat tunc havu,,' fa.l.Ml. ^^^^^^^^^ ^j. ^,^^
At the aeulh of GoUsd.alk h,. ^"'''^ J^'^^ \ ,,,,., ,., ,„. ,,-,.,,
1 . I'lttlti trunk U» WliU'li IH^ iiii'i*
AnuTU-an vice-consul '^ I'ttW- tu k j^^..^^,,,,,! i.^alecl it
placed the dc-oralions, jcwcIh, etc.
over to the frover.nnent. ^r- ^„,,.,. „„a Or,.hans' Court at
Kio, written m l"'^" '^^y' ,,i, ,,,v.,cts, tranks, ch.thc,
Gollschalk), inf..nnea h.s <""-"y '" ' ,^^^,.„,,, .,,■ M.,-cl>-thc
etc.,w..uhl he sohl at auc.u.n on ^''? '|';\",^ ,,,,,, ,v„,../.c,'
^ov^rnn^at takin, a.lvan.a.c «t >-^ -^^\^J^ ^,, ,.ui h.r the
ty .hick the et^ect. of u '-'f-^ j V^^^Jed at the end of
benelit of widowH and orphans. J'"'^ ;, ^^.,^, „„ ,•„,.« to
March, and alVr the .ale ''-^ ^'^^, '^ .'^ ;'^; ,, „ unUn-
do anything. The content, of u tr d^, >^^- ^ ^ ^^ ^^^^^^.^,,^.^
at ir.o, and -- '^ ^jf ),; ^...../..ak, these conipositions he.ng
Fortunately for the art.stu. --^J; , ^ y^,. ,,,,.„.,, ,,, ,.en
f,iend of Gottschalk, Mr. ^ ^ ^^^ ^:^ ^^^^^^^^^ '„, ,,, ,,„„v, and of
,a,e, aided hy ""7;-'''';.'"J: r^U G<.ttsehalk, to pro-
,Uose which he had '•-- ^ ^^^ „ „,„,„r of which are
a,.ee a .cries of l^J^™- : ::^l,nti.ue,' K'aprioc Polka,'
found some mazourkas-- ''\"" n^. . . ^i Cocoyc," Capnce
.Second «""i"'"I-,^""'\, "'s icB,- edited hy one of his
Cubain,' and many ^^^^ J^^ ^^;obcron . 1 Mains,' ^ Mar-
:rr=;::rt::^ii^^4reser.e.ri^^^^
^' i:wlrrl::::^il>le to enumerate the —res taken hy the
coyc/.rsiox.
470
n<t of OctolHT, li^"f^.
tlio t'muily of tlic ilt-
[.,1 in t»>«' I'lH"^'' of •^'"
>h 1.0 llll'U »"' '"' *'»""|'
vict-con!*iil hiiiiileJ H
nn.l Ori.liaiis* Coiirt ftt
thrt iift.M- III''. Jt'iill' "''
effects, trunks, clothes,
htoenth of M.iivh— the
ivw, '/(?'?'•'"■< '''""'""'"'''
s (li'iitli, air. soM ft)r tiio
■r unived iit the end of
i ; tluTO was no time to
.msis-iin-? of some niifui-
.ublislu'il by II ixiblislier
,„9 appearoil, whoso solo
hes(! comiiositions being
inanuscrii>ts.
levoteil an.l disintcTC-ste.l
ro, of Havana, has been
n of the family, and of
Vom tlotischalk, to pro-
be number of which are
ntique,' ' Caprice Polka,'
e,' ' El Cocoye,' ' Caprice
ri'es' edited by one of his
'Obcronil I Mains," Mar-
be voice from a part of it.
delicacy to purchase at
ly, who preserve for him a
the measures taken by the
iwed.
he Emperor and Empress,
at tiic time of their journey to {'.n^ilanil, (he sisters of (!ottsch>ilk
luid liopi'd that >ooii all wouhl be ended. Il, liowever, jimounted
(o Molhiiif:, except a ('ontinued eorrespotideuce. Hy an ineoni|ire-
liensibie fatality, as soon as one power of attorney was si'ut on de-
manil, the person nauieil in it had left Itio and another Ix'came
necessary. Four powers of attoriu'y were thus sent, tin: first to
the vice-eonsid of the I'liiled States, the seeoinl to tiie minister,
and the others to the coiisid and minister of the (lermaii l''<mpire.
Finally in December, 1M7.'1, the trunk of papers was traiismii.. I to
tiie sisli'rs of (iottsehalk, tlirou;^h the medium of tiu) Uraziliun
minister in London.
Tiieso papers had evidently been considered of no value, and for
this reason had been sent, but the condition in which they were
found rendered llie labour of many months necjessury before the
value of the notes, which were to form tlio i)ook presenteil to-day
to the public, could be ascertained. Some hundreds of scattered
leaves, many torn in two, had to Ix! matched, others wiiicli hail
been exposed to dampnos, reiulercd almost illegible (the ink being
hardly visible), bad to h(! carefully re-copied. It was a veritable
chaos, but till' artist's sisters, too happy in having possession of them,
resolved that these notes should be pulilished, and one of them
undertook the slow and arduous work of putting them in order,
which took two long years — and eleven years from his death will
have passed before the notes of his travels will be read by the
public. These notes, written in French, have been translated liy the
brother-in-law of tiie (h'cetused. Dr. lto!)ert E. Peterson, of I'hila-
delphia. TIk; task was somewhat difficult on iiecouiit of the fine,
delicat(.', and original style of Gottschalk, which is not easily ex-
pressed in English.
In February, 1870, ids sisters received a letter from Hra/.il,
advising them that there would be forwarded to them in a short
time a small box containing his decorations, also a small sum of
money, the only remains of their brother's effects. These decora-
tions, among which the most beautiful one presented to him by the
city of New Orleans, his natal city, was missing, were received with
it
i-HHion
^g^j HOTES OF A VIAMST.
p,...«t.i..y*n« I.i« fmnily luul lo.t all l.opo of ever gating l>«
n..nl r .. s. <.f wi.i.-h i..lna it is ulnu.,st in,.<,n.bl. to .p-.k
,1 witl.oi.l bit.c.rh.-K. olfvoU W1...H0 i..j.mtu-.. huH l"-»
'■' ' M my oth.T f.u.t« which wouhl .lo hul linl.. honour
::r^ :u.lby:uic......-«^-iiy'-' na,.riv...iof....
, L 1 1 l..(. ihrm in tlu) rnitr.1 Stul.'S huv b'''" '1'-
lll..roL .Vi..n.ls of all ..onnTn., .ho ,n.sc.ne uu a.K.H.un
^-;i;::;:;;::;":;r.X^^
r.k. a «acml l..gacy which th- brother rnul n.^t.-r. ot (.otts.halk
w l/hrirlls .o .bar., with tla-n. ; an.l U is with .ia^ ntna.s
., tV .I...V otV.-r to the ,.nblic this vohunc, .-.■rtain that
r; mr ': .' v;:i; t,;: .aJ umane., t,. ... conuauty
:,:!! ,1:: alway. b....n shown ^o the gn.at An^rlean p.an.sM.ul
composer, Lo^ia MoKtsAU GuTTSCUALii. ^ • •
.rDIITMii'""— ~"""
■vtT getting iKWHCHHion
sonn, wrltton with dif-
)«t iiiHM)H»ibln li) Kpriik
iMJO injuBtico Imn hirii
il.l lit. l.iil lilll'- ln>i>""r
1 II (l«'|)rivi'il of wliiit
Stlltl'H, llllVf Ix'iii <1"-
i(! fow jxTHoiif*, lornctl'iil
•(.nt iirliHt, ••oiiipiind to
o jircwrve an allii-tiun
Mi}rlit«, tlifso letters ivro
1(1 Hicters of (lottsclialk
,1 it is Willi 111" utmost
this volmnc, certain fliat
L'S8, the >*i»nii' fionliality
at American pianist ami
CO.