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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 372-4503

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rata

lelure.

32X

Ifrom IRiaoara to tbe Sea,

L. J. FORGET,
President Richeliel- & Ontario Navigation Co.

Official Guide, 1896.

]f rom IFliaQara to tbc Sea

©cscriptivc of tbat BclUibtful Cr(p Oown tbc IRivcr

St. TLawrcncc anO up tbc worlDsfamcC»

Saaucna\i.

(-co-,

-^0^1 I L L U ST RATE D. [^^

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1I3Suc^ In: tbc ipasociiiKV IDcpaitmcnt
of tbc

IRicbclicu anb ©ntarto mavioation dompanv),

IWo. 228 St. ipaul Street, /llbontreal.

EngravcD anO printe& bs 2>csbarats JJ Co.

•tto. 73 St. 3amcs Street, flDontrcal.

A ^-V-^ ^^:^^«.^

JUL 1 2 1937

O F F I C E R vS

OK THK

Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co.

L. J. Forget, President.

C. F. Gildp:rslep:ve, General 3fanaxer.

H. M. BoLGER, Secretary.

J. A. ViijvENEUVE, Accountant.

AI.EX. MirjvOY, Traffic Manager.

George a. Browne, Asst. Traffic Manager.

H. Foster Chaffee, Passenger Agent, Montreal.

J. F. DOI.AN, Agent, Toronto.

Thos. Hanley, Agent, Kingston.

L. H. Myrand, Agent, Quebec.

<^S3^

Entered, according lo A^* of the Parliament of Canada, in the year 1S96, by

Wm. a. Desbaratp,
at the Department of Agriculture.

jfroin fliaoava to tbc Sea.

Here, siile by side, the Old and New
Has eacii a charm spread out to view ;
l"rom where Niagara's thunders roar
By scarped clifT and fruwuiuK shore;
In fertile fields and island proves,
Hy winding streams and wrinkled coves,
In haunts of pleasure gay with life,
In scents of peace and ancient strife.

flHERE is no more beautiful scenery on the continent
of America than that which lies between Niagara and
the sea. Commencing at the Falls of Niagara on the
southern shore, then crossing Lake Ontario to Toronto,
the Queen City of the West ; embarking on one of the
steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation
Company, following the course of the Lake past the
romantic waters of the Bay of Quinte to Kingston, thence
down the St. Lawrence, threading in and out of the Thousand
Islands into the open stretch to Lake St. Francis, shooting
the rapids, stopping over at Montreal and Quebec, and finally
reaching the crowning glory of all, the incomparable grandeur of
the Saguenay River.

Before civiHzation had changed the aspect of North America,
the grandeur of Niagara was known to the inhabitants of the Old

World ; and to-day, when the facilities of trans-
NiAGARA FALLS, po^t^tj^jj ^avc brought the most remote places
within easy access, it is still regarded as Nature's greatest creation.
The scene is much changed since the day when it was regarded as
an object of superstitious fear by the Indians. Then, perhaps, its
environment was more harmonious. Hemmed in by a dense forest,
the approach to the Falls in those early days must have inspired a
feeling of reverence and awe. The only means of access was a nar-
row Indian path, but long before the majesty of the scene burst
upon the spectator, the rumbling and crashing of its waters was
heard, increasing with every step. No wonder that, to the Indian,
Niagara was sacred, or that at stated periods pilgrimages were made

6 From A'ia^ara to tJic Sea.

to propitiate its anger. As an offering to the wrathful deity, a
beautiful young girl was yearly bound fast in a canoe, and then set
adrift in the rapids, while singers chanted her death song till her

NIAGARA FALLS.

frail bark was swept over the cataract and swallowed up in the foam
and spray beneath. Time also has left its impress on this inex-
plicable wonder. Slowly but surely the massive granite is being
worn away by the unceasing turmoil of the waters, and, in 1850, a

a
set
lier

The Ricluiicu & Outario Navi}iatioti Cotufxiny. j

large portion of the Table Rock was precipitated into the ^ulf with
a crash that was heard miles from the scene. I'erhajJS the best
description that has ever been written is from the pen of Charles
Dickens, which we give herewith: — "At length we alighted;
and then for the first lime I heard the mighty rush of water, and
felt the ground tremble underneath m\- feet. The l)ank is very
steep, and was slippery with rain and half melted ice. I hardly
know how I got down, but 1 was soon at the bottom, and climbing,
with two English officers who were crossing and had joined me,
over some broken rocks, deafened by the noise, half blinded by the
spray, and wet to the skin. We were at the foot of the American
Fall. I could see an im-
mense torrent of water
tearing headlong down
from some great height,
but had no idea of shape,
or situation, or anything
but vague immensity.
When we were seated in
the little ferry boat, and
were crossing the swollen
river immediately before
the cataracts, I began to
feel what it was ; but I
was in a manner stun-
ned, and unable to com-
prehend the vastness of
the scene. It was not until I came on Table Rock and looked — great
Heaven, on what a fall of bright green water ! — that it came upon
me in its full might and majesty. Then, when I felt how near to
my Creator I was standing, the first effect, and the enduring one —
instant and lasting — of the tremendous spectacle, was Peace. Peace
of mind, tranquility, calm recollections of the dead, great thoughts
of eternal rest and happiness ; nothing of gloom or terror. Niagara
was at once stamped upon my heart, an image of beauty ; to remain
there changeless and indelible, until its pulses cease to beat forever.
Oh, how the strife and trouble of daily life receded from my view,
and lessened in the distance, during the ten memorable days we
passed on that enchanted ground ! What voices spoke from out the
thundering water ; what faces, faded from the earth, looked out

SPOT WHERE SIR ISAAC IIROCK FELL AT
QIIEENSTON HEIGHTS.

l''io})i Niitiiiira to l/ic Sti

upon iiic from its j^leamiiij; depths ; wliat Heavenly promise glist-
ened in those angels' tears, the drops of many hues, that showered
around, and twined themselves al)out the gorgeous arches which the
changing rainbows made ! '■■' •'• '■'■'• To wander to and fro all day,
and see the cataracts from all points of view, to stand upon the
edge of the great Hor.se-shoe I-'all, marking the hurried water
gathering .strength as it approached the verge, yet seeming, too, to
])ause before it shot into the gulf below ; to gaze from the river's
level up at the torrent as it came streaming down ; to climb the
neighboring heights and watch it through the tre.'s, and see tlie
wreathing water in the rapids hurrying on to take its fearful plunge ;
to linger in the shadow of the solemn rocks three miles below ;

'Xki^ .

ON TORONTO UAY.

watching the river as, stirred by no visible cause, it heaved and
eddied and awoke the echoes, being troubled yet, far down beneath
the surface, by its giant leap ; to have Niagara before me, lighted
by the sun and by the moon, red in the day's decline, and grey as
evening slowly fell upon it ; to look upon it every day, wake up in
the night and hear its ceaseless voice ; this was enough. I think in
every quiet season now, still do these waters roll and leap and roar
and tumble, all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning them, a
hundred feet below. Still, when the sun is on them, do they shine
and glow like molten gold. Still, when the day is gloomy, do they
fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the front of a great
chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. But
always does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down, and
always from its unfathomable grave arises that tremendous ghost of

I.J

GOVKKNMKNT IKH'SK, TORONTO; KKSIDKNCK
OK THK MKU'IKNANT-CiOVKKNOK.

Tlw Riiheln'ii df (hi/iino Xai ligation Conipany. 9

spray ami mist which is
never laid : which has
haunted this phice with
the satr.e dread solemnity
since darkness brooiled
on the deep, and that first
flood before the delujije —
li^ht came rushinj^ on
creation at the word of
God."

vSince the memorable
visit of Dickens, the im-
mediate vicinity of the
Falls has been trans-
formed. Beautiful parks form an agreeable setting to Nature's v-ork.
Hotels have been erected and bridges span the river. The region of
the Falls, above and below, presents a series of delightful pictiT-es
that will claim the leisure of the visitor. One of the most picturesque
spots, though seldom explored by tourists, lies between the whirlpool
and Queenston. We muj^t now leave Niagara, and proceed on a'
.short journey, either by rail or electric car, to the historic village of
Queenston, where from the Heights we can review much of the
scenery we have seen in detail. The country here is particularly
interesting. Yonder on the eminence is the monument
erected by Canada in honour of Sir Isaac Brock, who
fell during an engagement with the American troops
on the 13th of October,
1812. From the gallery
at the top of the column,
reached by a spiral stair-
way, a fine view is ob-
tained. On the opposite
shore is the American
village of L,ewiston, and
from the gorge above we
see the river as it comes
foaming down, eager to
end its struggles in the
calm expanse of the Bay
into which it spreads

BROCK'S
MONUMENT

Spi

Pxrcn^t*^4JM

jtAJPKS\iti.«Jr tnxsr*rT-

^JL.»ti;"Ktji«

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UPPER CANADA COLLEGK, TORONTO.

iii

I'^rom Niagara to the Sc

itself, sweeping on in serene grandeur to merge into the waters of
Lake Ontario.

I'rom Niagara we embark on one of the elegant steamers of the
Niagara Navigation Company, passing clown the River towards the
L,ake. On the American point is Old Fort Niagara which played
an important part in the early history of the coun-
try. It was here that La Salle erected a palissaded
store-hoiise in 1678, when he was building the " Griffin," the first
vessel, with the exception of a birch bark canoe, ever launched on

FORT NIAGARA.

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TRINITY college;, TORONTO.

Lake Erie. This store-house, afier its destruction by the Indians,
was rebuilt by the French in 1687, and finally a stone fort was
erected on the site in 1749 by the Marquis de la Jonquiere. Ten
years later it was taken by the British and remained in their posses-
sion until the close of the War of Independence, when it w?s ceded
to the United States. As the steamer proceeds the Old Fort is left
behind, and soon the whole country, once sacred to Nature and the
Indian, disappears from view. We are now in the stately waters of
Lake Ontario, and our destination is Toronto. The broad expanse
of water is a novelty after the turbulence of Niagara, while the
cooling breeze is truly refreshing and invigorating. From the deck
we are soon able to distinguish the shore to which we are heading,
presently tall spires and massive buildings loom in the distance.
The narrow strip of land which stretches out into the Lake and
forms part of the natural harbour of Toronto, is Hanlan's Island,
recently transformed from an unsightly strip of land into a pictu-

lie Richelieu <3f Ontario Naviiiatioii Company

1 1

TORONTO.

resque pleasure ground. As many will wish to visit some of the
most interesting places in Toronto, we give a brief outline of its
history, the better to enable them to retain a fair impression of the
Queen City.

The city of Toronto, population 188,000, the second in import-
ance of the business centres of the Dominion, is of comparatively
recent growth. In the middle of the last century the site was a
trackless wilderness, the only inhabitants being ;i
powerful tribe of Indians. In 1749, under the govern-
ment of France, a trading post was established, bearing the name
of Fort Rouille, not long after, the country passed into the hands of
the British, and we do not hear much of what took place at Fort
Rouille until 1793, and there seems to have been little change during
the next half century. In 1792 Lieut. -Governor Simcoe arrived in
the colony from England, and established his government at Niagara.
During the following year, being dissatisfied with the location of his
quarters, he set
forth to select
from the vast do-
main under his
rule a site on
which to estab-
lish a permanent
seat of govern-
ment worthy of
the territory it
was to represent.
He had not far
to seek, nor has
the wisdom of
his choice since
been questioned.
Crossing; the
Lake, he was
attracted by the
advantages of
the Bay, as form-
ing a natural
harbour capable

01 meeting tne monument in qitekn's pakk. Toronto, erected to

kiu(;eway volunteers.

From Nia<^ara to tlic Sea,

I ' \

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greatest demands of commerce, advantages which had probably led
the French to adopt it as a trading post fifty years before, in oppo-
sition to the Knglish post on the Oswego.

On landing, Simcoe pitched his tent near the shore, and soon a
large body of men were clearing the forest and cutting roads.
Simcoe named the city York, and remained for several months
superintending the development of the infant capital. The first
road that was cleared was Yonge street, connecting the seat of

government with the
Holland River, and open-
ing up the waterway to
the West. The residence
of the Governor and
Parliament buildings
were established near the
shore, and from this date,
1793, the city of York
takes its birth.

There is little left in
Toronto or in the neigh-
bourhood .suggestive of
its earl}^ history, the
principal feature that re-
calls its memory, is a massive granite boulder in the Queen's Park,
bearing this inscription : —

THIS CAIRN MARKS THE EXACT SITE OF

FORT ROUILI^E, COMMONLY KNOWN AS FORT TORONTO,

AN INDIAN TRADING POST AND STOCKADE, ESTABLISHED

A. D., 1749, BY ORDER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF

LOUIS XV. IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE REPRESENTATIONS

OF THE C( .;NT DE la GALISSONIERE, ADMINISTRATOR

OF NEW FRANCE, 1 747-49.

ERECTED BY THE CORPORATION OF THE CITY OF TORONTO, 1S78.

The administration of Simcoe was of brief duration ; he was
recalled to England in 1796, and little improvement was made under
his immediate successors. Troublesome times were in store for the
young city ; its pioneers were early taught that security and inde-
pendence were only to be obtained after bitter conflict. Early in
the year 1812a threatened invasion by the adjoining country turned
all thoughts into the more serious channels of defense, and for

SCHOOL OF PRACTICAL SCIENCE, TORONTO.

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I'rom Niagara to the Sea.

OSGOO'IK HALL, TORONTO.

nearly three years the city was under arms. An era of comparative
peace appears to have followed, during which institutions were
established, and the city placed again on the highway of prosperity.

In 1834 the city was incor-
porated under the name of
Toronto, but the seeds of
internal strife were begin-
ning to take root and threat-
ened to plunge the commu-
nity into all the horrors of
civil war. The continued
aggressiveness of the Colo-
nial Government aroused
the opposition to the point
of rebellion, and an insur-
gent force was raised at the
north end of the city that, for some days, menaced its security.
Actual warfare, however, was prevented by the timely appearance
of the militia, but discontent reigned for a long time, and it was
not until a revision of the legislation of the Province took place that
harmony was restored. In 1867 a new era dawned for the city ;
by the federation of the provinces, Toronto became the capital
of the Province of Ontario, which gave a great impetus to its com-
merce and substantially assisted in placing it in the proud position
it occupies to-day. Another factor in the development of Toronto
was the completion of the gigantic railway system of Canada, which
has placed her in communication with the entire length and breadth
of the continent. The
site of the city is low,
although it rises gra-
dually from the water's
edge to an elevation of
over 100 feet above the
level of the Lake. The
streets resemble in ar-
rangement those of the
modern cities of the
United States, and there
is an up-to-date appear-
ance about the whole

VICTORIA UNIVERSITY, TORONTO.

The RicluUcu C~ (hilario iVavii>;atio)i Conifyaity. 15

city. The bulk of the buildings are substantial and many of them
are of beautiful architectural design.

In the section of country north of Toronto are situated the
famous Muskoka Lakes, known as the " Highlamls of Ontario," a
favourite summer resort of many of Toronto's wealthy citi/.ens.
The Muskoka district has about eight hundred lakes of all shapes
and sizes, at an elevation of 750 feet above Lake Ontario. The

THE ISLAND I'ARK, TOTONTO.

healthfulness of the region is proverbial, while the hunting and
fishing are not surpassed anywhere. It is within ea.sy access, through
the lines of the Grand Trunk Railway to Gravenhurst, whence a
delightful trip can be taken on the steamers of the Muskoka and
Georgian Bay Navigation Company.

Having briefly reviewed the principal points in the history of
the city, we prepare ourselves for sight seeing. We will start from
our comfortable, well-equipped hotel, the Rossin House, at the
south-east corner of King and York streets, and drive up to Queen's
Park, stopping at the Parliament buildings, a stately pile, but
recently completed. Hurriedly we walk through its spacious cor-
ridors, glance in at the library, admire the beauty of the Assembly
Chamber, and then resume our drive. But a few rods away, in the
western part of the Park, is Toronto University, the pride of the city.

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/•yom A^iai^ara to the Sea.

Not long ago an eminent I^nglish traveller observed that " the
University of Toronto was, perhaps, the only piece of collegiate
architecture on the American continent worthy of standing-room in
the streets of Oxford." In its architectural features it belongs
essentially to the Old World. The buildings are the special glory
of the city ; the style is Norman, the proportions being noble and
the harmony of the whole exquisite. The University was founded
under a Royal Charter in 1827, and it has an endowment of one

TORONTO II.N'IVKRSITY.

million eight hundred thousand dollars. Its faculties include those of
Arts, Science, Law, Theology and Medicine, and it is in federation
with University College and Victoria University. It has also provision
for residence, in this respect differing from most of the Canadian
universities. The University proper, as in London and elsewhere,
is a degree-conferring body, teaching being vested in the colleges.

Leaving the academic shades we wander through the beautiful
drives and walks of the Park which forms part of the endowment of
the University, but many years ago was leased to the Corporation,
by the authorities, for the benefit of the citizens. Situated near the
University is the monument erected to the memory of the Canadian
volunteers who fell while defending the frontier during the Fenian
invasion of 1867.

Osgoode Hall — the palace of justice— where the highest courts of
the Province are held, will claim our attention while in this vicinity.
Interesting is the exterior structure of this building, but its beauty
is altogether eclipsed by the richness and elegance of its interior.

one

Tlic Riclu'licn tir Ontario Navigation Coinf)a)iy. 17

Another Iniikling on Queen street, worthy of note, is the
University of Trinity College, founded in 1852, and having an
endowment of $750,000. The buildings have an ecclesiastical air
about them, and the interior is beautiful.

Still driving through Queen's Park, we approach \'ictoria
University, much smaller than its sister, but architecturally a gem.
As we leave the Park we catch a glimp.se of McMaster University,
a grand looking structure of cut stone and pressed brick. Driving
along Bloor street, westward, we pass up St. George street, one of
the best residential .streets in the city. The stately homes tell the
tale of prosperity and comfort. Winding around eastward we cross
Yonge street and enter the charming suburb of Rosedale. Here the
drives wind in and out in a delightfully irregular manner, while on
every hand are the magnificent homes of Toronto's wealthy citizens.
One of the charms of Toronto, in fact the one that impresses us all,
is the beauty of the lawns and extensive grounds, which surround
so many of the homes. We have not time to drive through the
Rosedale ravines, but catch glimpses of these sylvan retreats as we
cross the many high bridges leading back to Bloor street. Then we
drive down Jarvis street over the smooth asphalt, and, gazing with
delight at the charming homes and well-trimmed lawns, gaily
bedecked with flowers, we, too, are forced to admit that Jarvis street

CORNER OF SHUTER AND CHURCH STREETS, TORONTO.

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h'rom Niaa^ani to the Sea.

THK I'AVILLION— HORTICCLTUKAL GAHDENS — TORONTO.

is one of the finest streets in America. At Carlton street we turn
eastward, so as to pass l)y the Horticultural Gardens, gay with
flowers, and catch the merry laugh of children as they play about

on the velvety sward,
under the maples and
stately elms. "The
Gardens " is a favorite
spot during the sum-
mer months, especially
in the evenings when
either the band of the
" Queen's Own " or
" Grenadiers " dis-
courses sweet music.
Passing down Sher-
bourne street we turn
westward along Queen
street to Church street.
As we turn southward
on Church street we pass the Metropolitan Church, belonging to the
Methodist denomination. In the rear of this is located the Roman
Catholic Cathedral of St. Michaels.

Driving down Church street to King, we come to the most
noted of all the Toronto churches, the Anglican Cathedral of St.
James. Passing westward along King street we find ourselves in
the very heart of the business portion of Toronto. The buildings
are in keeping with
the rest of the city,
massive, substantial
and yet with consider-
able claims to architec-
tural beauty. We soon
reach St. Andrews
Church, Presbyterian,
a noble looking stone
structure, notable even
in thiscity of churches.
Turning southward
toward the Lake we
pass "Government

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KNOX COLLEGE, TORONTO.

The Richelieu & Ontario Navi^ a/ion Company

House." the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the
Province, and, in the next block, the old Parliament Buildings.

Turning westward along the water front we drive through the
grounds of the "Old Fort." Here the quaint old ])uildings, the
block-houses, the remains of le stockades and palisades, as well as
numerous old canons attract our attention, and we — one and all —
long to linger in this historical spot and conjure up the scenes

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THE WOODBINE (RACE TRACK), TORONTO.

of long ago, when "men went to war," and the red men of the
forest vainly sought to drive the white intruder from the home of
his adoption. On, westward, we drive past the New Fort and soon
enter Exhibition Park, where, for two weeks in each September, is
held a great exposition. The Park itself is well worth driving
through. Passing out by the western gate we drive along the Lake
shore through Parkdale, a charming residential quarter of the city.
Turning eastward again we quickly pass the Mercer Reformatory, a
Government institution for the reformation of young girls ; then
northward past Trinity University, and again eastward until we

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reach the Rossin House, where a comfortable meal and cosy room
will }4reet us alter our day's excursion.

In the morning, after an early breakfast, we visit the Canada
Life Building, and get a grand view of the whole city and Bay from

the tower of that
magnificent structure.
Then we stroll leisure-
ly along King street
and up Yonge street to
the Confederation Life
Building, one of the
most striking in the
city. But two blocks
away we pause to ad-
mire the Freehold
Loan Building, then
pass on to Toronto
street, the Wall street
of Toronto, at the
head of which stands
the General Post Of-
fice, a rather unpre-
tentious structure.
Passing down Toronto
street, we turn west-
ward on King, then down Yonge street to the Board of Trade
Building. From the rotunda we obtain another delightful view
of the Bay and Lake, then hurry across the street to take a peep at
the interior of the Bank of Montreal. Time is up, so we reluctantly
wend our way to the hotel, have luncheon, and immediately drive
to the wharf where the staunch steamer of the Richelieu and Ontario
Navigation Company's line is waiting to take us on our journey
eastward.

The little that we have seen of Toronto has made us wish to
become better acquainted with the extent and charms of the city.
We have an interesting journey before us, however, and must hasten
towards our point of departure and then refresh ourselves while the
beauties of Nature are being spread out before us.

The steamers for Montreal leave Toronto docks at 2 o'clock p. m.
daily (except Sundays). Slowly they trace their difficult way

McMaster University, Toronto.

Tin Riihilit'ii &" ihitan'o A'axiiia/ioii Cotnpnny.

among the hordes of small craft of every kind that swarm the Hay.
and point their prow toward the eastern ontlet of the harbour, past
Wiman's baths on Hanlan's Island and the new breakwater on the
mainland side. On the right hand si<le is the Don \'alley issning
from the two converging Rosedale ravines, which in their solitary
grandeur of stupenduous depth and lofty pine within their fold,
remain the monument of .some primeval drift. In front is the i.sland
which protects the harbour from the boisterous weather of the Lake,
extending its narrow strip of land almost acro.ss the entire breadth
of the city. Upon the surface of the Bay can be seen the almost
incessant movement of shipping ves.sels, the island yachts with their
gracefully bulging sails, and canoes and .skiffs dotted here and there
among the larger craft. The whole scene is an imposing one and
reflects great
credit upon the
boasted beauty,
natural and ac-
quired, of the
Queen City, and
the spectator is
content to watch
with the grow-
ing enchantment
which increasing
distance lends,
until the picture
grows dim before
the eyes and
fades from view
in an indistin-
guishable haze.
After issuing
from the narrow
strait into the
broad expanse of
blue waters that
stretches far be-
3'ond the reach
of human vision,
the stately ves-

BROADWAY TABERNACLE.

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sel, instinct with the i)ovvt'r of her mighty enginery, braces up to
meet the freshening; wind and undulating seas that threaten to
oppo.se her progress, and her ponderous wheels are felt to quicken
their ])ulsations as, gathering strength, she strikes with vigorous
strokes into the bosom of the Lake.

Scarcely has the radiant beauty of the distant city disappeared
from view when the steamer draws near its first stopping place, Port

Darlington, about 44 miles from Toronto. It is

PORT DARLINGTON. ,, , u .. ■ * i. t *i 4. c

a small place, but important, both on account of
its brisk and flourishing flour and grain trade, and on account of its
being the lake port of the town of Bowmanville (5,000), which is
beautifully situated inland about two miles and a half, in the mid.st

of a fine agricultural territory.
It is built on an elevated plateau,
from which proud eminence it
commands the boundless sweep
of Lake Ontario's bowing waters.
It is an enterprising town of
important manufacturies (such
a.s- organs and pianos), and of
great industrial activity. The
two sinuous streams that flow on
either side of the town into the
Lake contribute an element of
natural beauty as well as, in the water power they afford, of utility
to the industries of the place.

Our steamer speeds on past shores filled with the mystery of
unwritten history, for already in the distance we may see the dim
outline of the lighthouse of Port Hope, and our footsteps may soon
press —

where centuries ago
The red men fought aud conquered, lost and won.
Whole tribes and races, gone like last year's snow,
Have found the eternal hunting grounds, and run
The fiery gauntlet of their ancient days."

Here, though largely shrouded in mystery, were fought the
fierc^est and most relentless battles for the possession of the Midland
region of Canada. The territory was well worth fighting for. It is
the fabled " happy hunting grou ^ : " deer, black bear, lake salmon,
sturgeon, bass and lake trout were found in lavish abundance, and
still amply repay the skill of the sportman ; and wild rice and maize

MllUARY OV TORONTO UNIVKRSITY.

Tlw Riiht'licH & Ontario Navii^alion ('omfniny.

•-;rew over vast tracts. No wonder, then, that Huron and Al^on-
<iuin struggled valiantly, though unsuccessfully, to retain j)ossession
against the attacks of the Iroquois, that race of athletes who lorded
it over half a continent, and whose alliance was eagerly courted by
1 'ranee and luigland.

A few miles inward is the Indian settlement of Hiawatha,
named after the Hercules of Objiway mythology, whom Longfellow
has immortalized in his melodious trohaics. Here we may wander

TORONTO— KING STRKET. EAST, FROM YONGE STREET.

by the "groves of singing pine trees, ever singing, ever sighing,"
and perchance follow in the trail trod centuries before by moccasined
feet or black robed priest. How changed the aspect : the struggles
for supremacy are ended, and the old tragic scenes are rapidly
passing into the twilight of Homeric legend.

Our thoughts are quickly turned into other channels as we
draw nearer to the prosperous town of Port Hope, which once bore
the Indian name of Ganaraske. The town is most
picturesquely situated on the north shore of the Lake,
rising in the background to a noble eminence, rendering it one of
the most healthful of residential situations. To the sportsman it is

PORT HOPE.

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From Nia^^ara to the Sea.

a paradise, as from its position it is the gateway to the sporting
territory of the reg-'on.

The next stoppage is six miles further along the coast, at
Cobourg (5,000), a town of considerable business activity, it being
the distributing centre of an exceedingly fertile portion
COBOUR . Qf |.|jg Province. It is a place of no mean pretensions to
beauty, its streets being broad and neatly laid out, as well as
frequently adorned by elegant public and private buildings.

PORT HOPE, ONT.

The drives along the eastern approaches of the town are very
beautiful.

Soon after the steamer leaves Cobourg, the day is drawing near
a close, and the voyage acquires a fresh interest for the mind that
is responsive to the picturesqueness of nature. The western sun is
settling with its great halo of crimson light behind the Northum-
berland hills ; eastward the clouds that hang like filmy draperies in
heaven are roseate from the setting sun, while toward the south and
east, Ontario's waters, stretching far away into the grey horizon,
reflect the splendour of the sunset scene from their imperial bosom,
until the view slowly dissolves itself, and the shadow of the coming
night begins to brood upon the face of things.

Darkness creeps along the distant reaches of the deep, and
possibly tlie moon, full-orbed or crescent, comes to shed its luminous
rays upon the dark watery pathway of the great steamer as she

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The RiclielicH cf Ofi/afia N^ai'ii>ation Company.

BAY OF QUINTE.

moves along the coast of Prince Kdward County, past the Ducks,
down toward the lower gap which opens into Kingston, the next
stopping point.

While she is plying her midnight way into the early hours of
the morning, — we shall leave her with all her slumbering pass'fngers
to trace a very pleasant detour through Murray Canal
and Bay of Quinte, available to tourists by means of
the Richelieu Company's new iron steamer " Hamilton," which
alone takes this route down, whereas all the steamers take this course
on their return trip.

The steamer takes a circuitous course from Cobourg to its next
stopping place, Brighton, passing in the distance on the right the
Sandbanks, the vScotch Bonnet Light and Weller's Bay. After
rounding the Presque Isle light into the bay of the same name, it
has to trace a devious way among the difficult and intricate chan-
nels, buoyed by a system of range lights to facilitate navigation
among its shoals, until finally the Port of Brighton is reached.
This has a well-sheltered harbour, and is a district of considerable
industrial activity, its manufacturies covering flouring and plaster
mills, a tanner}', and cannering works.

From Brighton we cross the end of Presque Isle Bay to the
Murray Canal, which has recently been constructed across the
narrow isthmus that joins the Prince Edward Peninsula to the
main land. This construction has been the means of opening up for

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a highway of steamboat traffic, the sinuous picturesqueness of the
Bay of Quinte, with its splendid scenery of elevated shore, capped by
tall trees, and of long reaches which give the place a romantic
beauty eminently fitting it for a field of summer pastime and recu-
peration. We cannot issue from the narrow water of the canal with
its four spanning bridges (railway and three highway bridges) into
the broader waters of the Bay of Quinte, without allowing our
thoughts to drift back to the heroic Fenelon, brother of the famous

Archbishop of Cam-
bra} , who, in 1668,
directed his steps into
the heart of these soli-
tudes. Reared amid
the refined luxury of
his ancestral home at
Perigord, with the
prospect of the alliance
of his house with one
of the most powerful
families of France,
there is a tinge of
romance mingled with
his deeds. But as we
peruse the narrative which history has preserved of the struggles,
privations and dangers to which he was exposed in extending the
cause of religion, terminating with his life at the early age of thirty-
eight, the romantic spell is broken and there gathers around his
memory the auriole of martyrdom.

Leaving the Murray Canal, the steamer courses along the south
shore, past Indian Island over to Trenton (5,000), at the mouth of
River Trent. This is at once the centre of a fine agricul-
tural district and the home of vigourous and varied in-
dustries which are favoured by the presence of exceptional water
power and the distributing media of the Grand Trunk Railway and
the steamboat lines. The town has a beautiful and commanding site
at the head of the Bay of Quinte, of which it has the sweep clear up
to Belleville. On the west it is flanked by the sister mounts Pelion
and Ossa from whose elevated summits the lowlands and the bay,
with its beautiful indentations of coast line, stretch before the eye
in splendid panorama. Northward the eye can catch, amid the

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TRENTON.

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The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company.

undulating hills of Sydney and of Murray, the gleaming waters of
Trent's meandering stream, while southward, beyond the bay and
the peninsula as far as the sight can reach, lies Lake Ontario's
boundless blue, the waters of an inland sea.

Leaving Trenton, the steamer passes Baker's and Nigger's
Islands on the left up the bay towards Belleville. On our right is
Rednerville, the principal shipping port of the Townships of Amelias-
burg and Hillier, well known for their frutt industries. Their apple
production is exceedingly progressive, both in quantity and quality.

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In the distance over our bows looms up by this time the long
and graceful span of Quinte Bridge, which is said to be the longest
highway bridge in America— the creditable product of one of Belle-
ville's manufacturing companies (G. & J. Brown). To the left
before we reach the bridge is seen the Provincial Deaf and Dumb
Institute, whose purpose is to instruct its unfortunate pupils into a
practical knowledge of some useful trades and arts : to the males,
printing, carpentering and shoemaking ; to the female pupils,
domestic work, tailoring, dressmaking, sewing, knitting, use of
sewing machines and fancy work. As we near the massive bridge,
its ponderous draw is opened at a signal from the steamer's whistle,

I'^om Niagara to the Sea.

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BELLEVILLE.

and we glide swiftly through the chasm of the hugh structure
which, from the distance, seemed to present an impossiljle barrier to
our progress.

Entering tiie harbour we are confronted by the city of Belleville
at the mouth of the Moira River. A brief glance at the situation
and surroundings of the city is .sufficient to convince
the tourist or sportsman that nature has singled out
this .spot as an ideal summer resort. Far out in the open waters,
or winding in and out along the shore, hidden among its time-worn
coves, are a series of camping and fishing grounds, the discovery
of which will thrill the sportsman with delight. Here, amidst an
infinite variety of scenery, and the enjoyment of rare and pure
atmosphere, for which the district is famous, the pleasures of
boating and yachting may l)e indulged in to the heart's content.
Bass fishing is the main sport of the Bay ; this gamey fish is
very numerous in its waters, giving place in season to the more
exciting sport of ma.slsinonge fishing, while a few miles inland
are famous trouting grounds. Not only in the summer, but at
all seasons, Belleville holds out special inducements to those
devoted to pleasure or sport. In the fall duck shooting attracts
numerous sportsmen to the Bay, and blue bills and black ducks,
mallards, red heads and widgeon are found in abundance along its
marshes, and fair partridge shooting is to be had. In autumn
the famous deer hunting grounds of the Province may be conve-
niently reached from the city. This is the prospect presented to
us before we set foot on the shores of the city commonly known
as the "Beautiful." From any elevated site its claim to this title
will be found justified. In the centre of the valley through which
the river Moira flows to the Bay, is the business part of the city,
with its substantial buildings and well-ordered streets, picturesque
even in its busiest thoroughfares. On the hills which rise gradually
from the vale are scattered the homes of its citizens amid shrouded
nooks and retreats, combining the pleasures of rural life with the
advantages of a thriving city.

Four riv^ers flow into the Bay of Quinte and facilitate commu-
nication with the interior of the Province. The natural advantages
of its situation early attracted settlers to its shores.

Cautious and steady in its progress from the commencement,
its industries and institutions are on a solid foundation, while
its possibilities are only yet dimly realized.

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From a commercial standpoint Belleville is unique, its resources
render it practically independent of competition. Within a radius
of thirty miles, and easily accessible by rail or water, are extensive
mines of iron ore, gold, galena, lithographic stone, slate, marble,
phosphate, actinolite, mica and asbestos, while on the opposite
shore, connected by the bridge, is Prince Edward County with some
of the finest grain and fruit producing lands of the province. With

water power for deve-
loping raw material,
with rail and water-
ways penetrating in-
land, and with the
facilities of its har-
bour, its proximity to
Lake Ontario and the
St. Lawrence, Belle-
ville appeals forcibly
to the manufacturer.
It is also the ter-

ALBEKT COLLEGE, BELLEVILLE. miHUS Ol thC Mlaland

and Grand Junction
Railway Systems, and the seat of the Bay of Quinte District Exhi-
bition, which is to the Midland District what the Western Fair is
to London, and the Canadian Fair to Ottawa. These advantages
and its connection with Prince Edward County, virtually make it
the county seat of two counties, and the commercial centre of the
Midland district. The markets are amply supplied with every
luxury, and attract, for the abundance and cheapness of the produce
offered, both English and American buyers.

A most important industry is the Corbyville Mills and Distillery,
which assume the proportions of a village near the city. Interest
is also centered in its extensive lumber, planing, paper and flour
mills.

The manufactures of Belleville are widely known, and almost
every enterpri.se is represented. Woollen mills, corset factories,
machine works and potteries, tinware factory, box and basket factory,
tanneries, foundries, carriage works, mining and engineering shops,
biscuit and canning factories, etc., while among its attractions is
that of a flowing mineral water well, which attracts further interest
to the city. Scott's Emulsion and Kennedy's Medicines are here

The RicJulicH <2f Ontario Navigation Company

manufactured and shipped to the wholesale druggists throughout
Canada.

The curative properties of the mineral waters, and the establish-
ment of mineral baths, are calculated to give a still wider reputation
to the city, while the completion of the projected smelting works
will promote its mining interests. Side by side with the commercial
progress of Belleville we may trace its social, municipal and educ.'>-
tional development in the substantial and handsome dwellings of
many of its citizens, in its public buildings and impro\ements, in its
churches and schools. In hotel accommodations the city stands
pre-eminent, for nothing finer is to be found in the Province than
the Hotel Quinte. It is handsome in appearance, constructed on a
good plan, furnished with all the improvements that art and wealth
could suggest, and capable of meeting the requirements of the most
fastidious. The situation of the hotel is favourable, as it commands
an extensive view of the Bay and the surrounding country.

The Court House, approached by a terrace of green sward and
ornamental trees, is one of the finest in the Province, and occupies a

striking position. The Hospital and Home
Some of the Buildings ^^^ beautifully situated on the Bay shore and

of Belleville. -^ -^

are a monument to the enterprise of the ladies
of Belleville. The principal seat of learning is Albert College, a
group of buildings, comprising chapel and class-rooms, dormitory

HOTEL QUINTE, BELLEVILLE

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and proftssors' residence, and gymnasium and museum of natural
history. It was founded in 1857, and owns property to the extent
of $100,000. By its affiliation with the University of Toronto it
gives to Belleville many of the advantages of a university city.
Albert College maintains a large staff of i)rofessors for the education
of young ladies and gentlemen, giving an advanced course in music,
literature and arts, as well as a commercial education, the excellence
of which is acknowledged throughout the Dominion.

The substantial brick building, on Church street, known as the
High School, was erected in 1872 at a co.st of $30,000.

Ontario Business College, located at the corner of Bridge and
Front streets, has obtained an enviable prominence in the field of
commercial education. It was founded in 1868, and is in a flouri.sh-
ing condition, and attracts students not only from every Province in
the Dominion, but from the United States and West India Lslands.
Belleville Business College covering a considerable area, is a similar
institution devoted to commercial education. It receives liberal
patronage and enjoys an extended reputation.

The Ontario Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, situated west
of the city, is among the important buildings of Belleville. Its
surroundings are extremely picturesque.

The Armoury and Drill Hall, located on Church street, is a
solid structure recently erected at a considerable outlay. It is the
headquarters of the 15th Battalion A. L. I., and contains several
trophies of the regiment. Its appointments are very complete.
The gymnasium and the officers' quarters will prove of interest to
visitors.

The Post Office, the City Hall and the other Government buildings
in the same district are in keeping with the requirements of the city.

The Carman Opera House is a spacious and well appointed
building, quite equal to any in Ontario.

In a tour through the city many of the churches representing
various denominations will meet the tye. Some of them are beauti-
ful in design, while others, less pretentious,
are interesting, as being associated with the
earliest development of Belleville, and are all worthy of a city whose
churches have sent out men of distinction to all parts of Canada.

St. Thomas' Church, a handsome stone structure of Gothic
design, replaced a quaint looking edifice, which was consecrated in
1828 by Bishop Stewart.

Beheville's Churches.

Tin Richelieu cf Onfan'o Navii^a/iofi Coinpany.

3.^

vSt. Michael's Church is a beautiful structure. It was built in
1 886 by the Right Rev. Mon.seigneur Farrelly. The congregation
of St. Michael's first assembled in a small chapel built about 1827.
This was replaced in 1833 ])y a more substantial edifice, which in
turn gave place to the present church.

Bridge Street Methodi.st Church is an imposing building, and
its history dates from the earliest settlements. Its congregation was
the first in Canada to introduce instrumental music into tlie services

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lIRinGB STREET. BELLEVILLE.

of the church, and it was the first to have a spire and bell. In it
was convened the first General Conference of the Methodist Church
of Canada which consonmiated the union of Methodism in the
Dominion.

The new St. Andrew's Church (Presbyterian) is architecturally
beautiful and the interior is perfect in design and equipment. The
handsome and costly .stained glass windows are much admired.

Suburban Belleville is not less beautiful than the immediate
limits of the city. There are a number of charming drives, and
quiet secluded retreats that appeal to every lover of the beautiful,
and either by land or water the scenery presented is enchanting.

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The old Diiiulas or Kingston road, which is famed as the ori>,nnal
staj^e route l)et\veen IlaniiltrMi and Montreal in the days previous to
the buihUn.^; of the (irand Trunk Railway, ])asses alonj,' the bay
shore and through the cit>'. It is considered one of the finest
coaching thoroughfares in Canada. That portion of it which lies
between Cobourg and Kingston, passing through Ilelleville, is
always taken by bicyclists for the century fast runs, on account of
its smoothness and general excellence. .\ drive or ride (bicycle or
horseback) along this road is a delightful and healthy exerci.se.

There are three famous fishing grounds in the Bay of Quinte,
besides the sport which may be found in almost every part of the.se
waters. About twenty-five miles east of Ilelleville, is Hay Bay,
in which there is as good fishing and duck shooting as any found in
the vicinity. There are no hotels in the neighborhood and sports-
men must depend on farm hou.ses.

Fine maskinonge fishing is to be obtained in Mosquito Bay,
between Goose and Indian Islands, also at Hay liay and Glen Island.
Massassaga Hotel is about two miles from the shore of Mosquito Bay
and there are aLso farm houses.

At the west end of the Bay of Quinte, near the Murray Canal,
is Trenton Bay. Here there is excellent maskinonge fishing, and
as the spot may be reached by the daily steamers from Belleville, it
is a most desirable ground.

Guides to conduct sportsmen to the best spots are always on
hand and every requisite for the tourist or sportsman may be obtain-
ed in the city.

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massassa(;a park hotki- and (.rounds.

Our steamer now crosses over the Bay to Belleville's charming
summer resort, Massassaga Point, opened up to tourists by the en-
terprise of one of its prominent citizens. It contains a first-class
hotel and several cottages, and is set in the midst of a scene of
unequalled beauty. Besides being in the centre of the haunts of the
maskinonge, it provides for every kind of amusement. The park is
well laid out with cricket and archery grounds, lawn tennis courts
and croquet grounds, protected by the shade of spreading. trees.
Since its opening, a few years ago, it has gradually increased in
popularity and adds yet one more attraction to the city of the
beautiful. A mineral well was bored here some years ago, and the
water is furnished to hot and cold baths, which have been found
highly beneficial to rheumatic patients. "

lycaving Massassaga Point, the steamer enters an expansion of
the Bay across which she traverses past Ox Point and Point Ann,
with their inexhaustible limestone quarries, and Big Island. To the
right is the village of North Port, the shipping place of the township
of Sophiasburg, a district which produces large quantities of apples,
cheese and hops.

Moving on westward, Telegraph Island is passed with its light-
house, Peterson's Ferry on the right, and on the left the Mohawk

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Iihliiiii Kfscrvt.' of 'PyciulciKiK^a, a block olltMiitory which ihc wliiU-
iiilrudcr Itll lo tlic ancestral owners of the whole land. It is popu
lated by the Six Nation Indians -Mohawks, Oneidas. Onondaj^as.
vSenecas, Cayuj;as and Tnscaroras — remnants of the intrepid Iroquois
who left the main stock of their people in New York, in 1784, and
came to Canada. Ik-re they have .settled down in i)eace while the
white man, with his rnshiiii; railways atid his noisy manufactories,
is rapidly ohliteratini; the traces of his old huntinji j^rounds, in the
princijial solitudes which stretched alon^ the margin of the great
lakes. The3 are a Christian community as is attested by the grey
.spire of the church, that can be seen fiom the Jiay, lifting its head
above the clustering trees. A gift to which the Indians point with
pride, is a silver communion service, pre.sented to them by Queen

Anne, carefully preserved and
loyally cherished. In many
way.s they show exceptional
gifts, especially in the line of
practical arts, such as needle
work, for which the Mohawk
mothers are famous. Even
the children show a natural
skill in drawing, in which they
evince a decided superiority
over white boys of the same
age. The men occupy themselves either at agricultural pursuits or
in the employment of some of Deseronto's manufactories.

As we draw near the Docks of Deseronto our steamer passes
Forester's Island Park, owned by Dr. Oronytechka, a pleasant summer
resort commanding an extensive view. This island was a part of
the domain of the powerful Mohawk chief, whose name is perpetuated
in the busy port we are now entering.

Deseronto is conspicuous-from the distance by the massive lumber
piles, the tall smoking chimneys from the numerous large factories,
some brick-colored and some of the color of zinc ; by the
dock-yards, with the steamers and vessels in process of
construction or repair, all giving a prepossession to the spectator that
this is surely a place of great industrial activity.

The town is built on a hill which rises gradually from the
water's edge northwards. Situated on an elbow of the Bay where the
Belleville Reach abruptly turns from the north-east to south into the

.MAKTKI.I.O TOWKR, KINCiSTON.

DESERONTO.

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Picton Reach, it has .. survey of the beautiful scenery of both as well
as, towards the east, of the tortuous channels of the Napanee River.
Towards the west the Telegraph Island Light looms up in the misty
distance like a lairy tower floating on the water's surface ; towards
the south, the long stretch of elevated coast, clothed in foliage green,

PICTON.

ALEXANDRIA HAY, THOUSAND ISLANDS.

seems to approach so close to the opposite shore awAy ahead as to
leave apparently only a narrow gorge between, through which, now
and then, appear the white sails of yachts and schooners working up
the Reach.

We now cross the Long Reach for Picton on the picturesque
shores of Prince Edward County. The passage is enhanced here by

the beauty and variety of the .scene which greets the eye.

The entry to Picton Bay, enclosed by two lofty shores, is
impressive, lending beauty to the prospect of the town which is now
in full view. We may point out that from the elevation of these
shores, a marvelous stretch of lake and woodland grandeur is obtain-
able. From the sheltered position of its harbour Picton is highly
favoured as the shipping centre of Prince Edward County. PVuit and
grain are grown in abundance in th's region and distributed from
Picton. It is a manufacturing town of importance, having large
canning factories, foundries, and a ship yard for the building and
repairing of vessels. It is also the terminus of the Central Ontario
Railroad.

The town is provided v/ith all modern improvements in the way
of water works, electric light, fire alarm, telephone and telegraph

The Ricliclicu c~ Oiifaiio Xav/'i^a/ion Compiniy.

.^9

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systems. The drives on either side of the town are ver\' fine, the
roads being excellent and tracing a way among rich farm-lands,
splendid orchards, rnral homes, and beautiful inland lakes, as they
near the shores of Lake Ontario.

About ten miles from Picton on the Lakeside of Prince Edward
County are the Sandbanks, mounds of shifting sand on the margin of
the great lake.

On leaving Picton the steamer courses along the shore in the
direction of Cilenora, where the land rises abruptly to an elevation of
nearly two hundred feet. Huddling at the foot of the mountain,
with scarcely room for a footing, are the Glen House for tourists,
extensive flouring mills, foundry and machine shops, deriving their
power by water carried through a narrow pipe from the lake on the
summit of the cliff, the celebrated Lake on the Mountain. It is a
little circular sheet of blue water, nestling like an Alpine lake among
its trees in cosy solitude. There is a romantic beauty about this
lake, as well as a tinge of mystery. Being on a level with Lake
Erie, and with no apparent inlet, it is suppo.sed to be connected with
it by means of subterranean channels. Clear and crystal are its
deplhs, which remain unfathomed, an ideal spot around which to
weave dainty stories that may vie with tne beauty of classic legend.

The view from the summit of the mountain is enchanting.
Across the stretch of water lie the pleasant camping grounds and
cottages of Dingman's Island. To the right is the cataract that over-
leaps the edge of the mountain into a romantic chasm, near the base

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THOUSAND ISLANDS SCENKRV.

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of which is a well-known cave. Leaving this delightful spot we
arrive at the historic Adolphustown, with its beautiful memorial
chapel which perpetuates the memory of the United Empire Loyalists,
a body of sturdy men, so jiamed from their devotion to the British
Crown during the Revolutionary War. It was through their efforts

that this district was settled after
the clo.se of hostilities in i<Si2.
Interesting and varied scenery
meets the eye as we take in
the surrounding pros-
pect. To the lei't is 'r>-
dericksburg, and just
beyond Pruiyers Cove,
a favourite mooring
ground for yachts, fur-
nishing excellent sport
in the form of pike fish-
ing and also affording a
safe harbour in the event
/ of storm. Two miles further
on, jutting out into the Bay, is
Indian Point. Its gravel beach
is formed ' by the washings of
the waves coming in from the
Upper Gap. A dense grove of cedars covers part of the shore,
making it a desirable camping ground.

The steamer now issues out upon the waters of the Upper
Gap, and again we catch sight of endless blue over our starboard.
Behind us lie the jutting headlands of Quinte, backed by the dark-
green hills of Glenora down the Adolphus Reach. Over our quarter
is the coast of Amherst Island which we are rapidly approaching, as
we point our bow^ for the North Channel, which separates the Island
from the mainland on the north. Around us roll the slov swells of
the lake, barely making themselves felt in the slight undulatory
motion of the vessel. Here and there, upon the water, can be seen
the graceful forms of white gulls careening on the waves. As we
approach thej- lift successively on their narrow cre.scent wings,
perform a mazy tracery of motion in mid-air, crossing '- i recrossing
one another, circling and intercircling in mystic figures, until they
again alight in the di.stance upon the rolling water.

A CVROri' OF THK THUUSAiNU ISLANDS.

Tlic Richelieu cf Ontario Navio^ation Company.

STELLA.

On the right, as we pass into the North Channel, is Knierald,
Lhe upper landing of Amherst Island. It is the port of a prosperous
agricultural district, and is the home of old artist Daniel Fowler,
whose achievements in landscapes and still-life representations have
won him considerable praise.

On the mainland shore, a little farther on, is the town of Bath,
formerly knowai as IJ^rnesttown.

The next port of importance is Stella (Amherst Island), 12 miles
west of King.ston. It is a place not only of brisk industries in the
agricultural line, but is a most pleasant summer resort with
its picturesque and sheltered bay. There is a large summer
hotel on Stella Point for accommodation of tourists, and the fishing
grounds are excellent. It is a convenient as well as a pleasant
retreat by reason of its neighboring supply stores, cable communi-
cation with the mainland, daily mail and steamboat service. The
drives about the island are beautiful.

The steamer now steers a
clear course for Kingston,
past the Three Brothers
Islands at the foot of Am-
herst, and Salmon Island,
across the broad waters of
the Lower Gap, leaving the
picturesque Bay of Quinte
finally behind.

Proceeding along the
n'orth shore we see the vil-
lage of Cataraqui, adjoining
which is Kington's " City
of the Dead , ' ' where repose,
among its silent tombs, the
remains of the celebrated
Sir John Macdonald, Pre-
mier of Canada, and Sir
Alexander Campbell.
Farther on we behold the
village of Portsmouth,
distinguished for its ship-
building industry and trans-
shipping facilities. Here

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also are located the Kingston Penitentiary, the Rockvvood Asylum,
and the Church of the (iood Thief.

And now we are at Kingston, the Woolwich or West Point of
Canada, with its Military College, its massive grey stone forts, its
martello towers, its imposing public buildings. It is
beautifully situated at the foot of Lake Ontario, at the
head of the River St. Lawrence, and at the mouth of the Rideau or
Great Cataraqui River which, with the Rideau Canal, connects it by
waterway with Ottawa.

A settlement was begun here by the French under Governor
De Courcelles (1672), with the name of Fort Cataraqui, for the
purpose of protecting the fur traders from the murderous depre-
dations of the Indians. His successor. Count de Frontenac, built a
massive stone fort, giving it his own name, which still attaches to
the county. This fort was alternately seized and delapidated by the
French and English, until it was destroyed by the English under
Colonel Bradstreet in 1758. It was again rebuilt under the name of
Fort Henry, which it retains to-day. At the time of the union of
Upper and Lower Canadas (1841), Kingston was made the seat of
Government, but it was afterwards removed to Montreal (1841).

At Kingston, vessels, constructed for lake navigation only,
transfer their cargoes to barges and river boats for conveyance to
Montreal, while in turn these tranship their cargoes brought from
Montreal to the lake boats.

Kingston has quite extensive industries in ship building and
ship repairing, it carries on an extensive grain trade, and has large
smelting works for extracting metal from the ore.

It is also a great educational centre. Its colleges are of conti-
nental repute. They are Queen's University, Royal Medical College
(for male and female). Royal Military College, School of Gunnery,
School of Art, Science Hall, School of Mining, Kingston Business
College, Congregation de Notre-Darae, St. Mary's on the Lake
Convent, and Kingston Ladies' College.

The general appearance of the city is that of solidity and antique
beauty. Its prevalent limestone architecture has secured for it the
name of the " Limestone City." It is \vell laid out, and here and
there is adorned by massive buildings, such as the City Hall, Court
House, with its pillars and dome in Grecian Ionic style, Custom
House, Post Office, St. George's (Anglican) and St. Mary's (R. C.)
cathedrals, which latter are accredited \\\W\ being the finest churches

The Richelieu & Ontario Navi-^atiou Coiiipaiiv.

of Canada, west of Montreal ; in fact, the tower of vSt. Mary's, as
recently rebuilt, is a masterly monument of Gothic architectural art,
and will eminently repay personal inspection by the tourist. The
city is provided with a well-appointed electric street railway which

ON THK CANADIAN SIDK— THOUSAND ISLANDS.

adds to its general comeliness as well as to its conveniences. It has
first-class hotel accommodation, the Frontenac, being a modern,
well-managed hotel.

From Kingston may be taken a pleasant trip through the Rideau
Lakes to Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion. The "James Swift,"

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l-^rom Niai:;aya to the Sea.

a large and comfortable steamer, makes the round trip twice a week,
and, for beauty of scenery, the country it traverses is unsurpassed.
The region abounds in pleasant camping grounds, and good hunting
and fishing may be obtained on the lakes.

We now launch out at early morn upon the silent bosom of the
majestic vSt. Lawrence. Behind us lie the cold^grey'stiuctures of

1,1

IN THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.

illf

THOUSAND ISLANDS.

the Limestone City, with its domes and pinnacles bathed in the
rising lustre of the morning sun. Toward the south-west stretches

the vast calm surface of Ontario beyond the
gap dimmed by the lifting mist, and bearing on
its bosom the shadowy outline of a distant ship. Across the river
stands Garden Island, with its cluster of shipping, and City View
Park, on Wolfe Island, with its undulating groves. Before us lies
the entry to the sinuous channels of the famous archipelago of the
Thousand Islands.

These commence near Kingston with Wolfe, the largest of their
number, where the waters of Lake Ontario issue into the broad
channel of the St. Lawrence, and extend down to Brockville, a
distance of some fifty miles. They number in all some 1700, vary-
ing in size, shape and appearance, from a small lump of barren rock
projecting from the surface of the river, to the large fertile area of
land, crowned with richest foliage and lofty trees, and ornamented
by neatly colored summer residences, or left in their primeval rude-
ness. As we wind in and out amid these charming islands — sylvan
gems which deck a crystal stream — the rapidly changing picture

*■•■

'III

i.1

The Riclulicn e~' Ontario A\iv/oatio)i Coiiipaiiv.

almost ])ewilders us. Delightful, indeed, would he a short vacation
spent in their midst. Here we could

Leave the town with its Imndrcd noises,
Us clatter and wliirr of wheel and steam:

l-'or woodland qniet and silvery voices,
And £> forest camp by a crystal stream.

The picture is too vast for us to be enabled to unite it into one
grand scene, its devious water cour.ses sometimes opening into swell-
ing lakes or closing into narrow gorges across which the shadow of
the island trees throw their image ; with their clustering groups,
head above head, like Neptune's flocks asleep ; with their prodigality
of decorative coloring, both from the hand of man, in neatl}' orna-
mented cottages, and from the more arti.slic hand of nature, iu her
mosses, lichens, flowers and the arabe.sque of dark in-woven leaves,
penetrated by the radiance of the pale blue sky ; but most of all
with their shifting kaleidoscope of scenes which throng the vision
as the steamer traces its way among the labyrinthiaii channels.
Here and there the course seems completely closed and we think
the boat must back out, when nearer approach to the moss-grown
shores discloses a hidden outlet by a sudden turn, perhaps into a
.sheer-sided rock-bound strait, whose shores we can almost touch
troni the decks, or
into a beautiful am-
phitheatre of lake,
bounded by myriad
isles. Their scenery
has indeed more of
the element of the
beautiful and pretty
which wins the
spectator by its
delicate and varied
loveliness, than of
the sublime which
holds our minds in

awe and reverence before the majesty of power or of size. Their
uniqueness is not in their grandeur, but in their daintiness of tints,
of shifting scenes, of growing and dissolving views, of land-locked
bays and lakelets and sinuous transparent streams that wind and
intersect in wildest tracery. They are the nearest approach perhaps

FinnLKR S ELBOW— LOST CHANNKL— CANADIAN ISLANDS

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that the workl presents to the realization of the ancients' dream of
the '' Forhour /iisn/a\" the embodiment of ideal beauty of garden-
land and stream.

These islands were the scene of several thrilling and romantic
adventures during the days of the rebellion. The burning of the
"vSir Robert Peel" occurred here in 1838, by a band of outlaws,
headed by " Bill Johnson," a kind of political Robin Hood, who
had conceived the idea of-confering on Canada the boon of freedom.
The story of his devoted and daring daughter " Kate," who rowed
him from hiding place to hiding place, and kept him supplied with
food, gives a touch of the charm of legend and adventure to these
rock}' mazes.

The passage through the islands extends several hours. The
steamer courses between Howe and Wolfe Islands, past Grindstone
Island, stopping first at Clayton (New York), on the American
mainltmd. It is a favourite summer resort, both on account of the
natural beauty of its scenery, it being just opposite the upper group
of the Thousand Islands, and on account of the splendid fishing
grounds in the vicinity where black bass, pickerel, maskinonge
abound. All lines of steamers stop at Clayton. It is connected
with Niagara Falls, Albany, New York and Utica by railroad.
The trip from New York and Utica can be made in thirteen and
three hours respectively without any changing. The place is also
provided with excellent hotel accommodations.

Taken as a whole, the scenery of the Thousand Islands, the
advantages for boating, fishing and camping, and the purity of the
climate, contribute towards making the region the most unique of
Canada's pleasure grounds.

Almost directly opposite Clayton, on the Canadian shore, is
Gananoque, about eighteen miles east of Kingston. It is a place of
5000 inhabitants, and has won for itself the name of the ' ' Sheffield
of Canada," because of its vigourous mauufacturing industries.

From Clayton, the steamer courses along the American channel
of the river, past Round Island, This island (one mile by one
thousand and four hundred feet) is one of the finest
gems in the entire Ariadne's Crown of Isles. Its
many pretty cottages, beautiful grounds, luxuriant foliage, sub-
stantial docks and splendid water front, make it a most attractive
spot for tourists. Round Island possesses a truly superb hotel, The
Frontenac. It is a truly luxurious summer hotel, and is surrounded

ROUND ISLAND.

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OVEN ISLAND, NEAR ALEXANDRIA BAY.

by beautiful lawns, amply supjjlied with pleasure boats and yaclit.s,
in one word an ideal suninier home.

A few miles farther on, in the very heart of the archipelago, the
steamer passes Thousand Island Park, on W'ellesley Island —a reli-
gious summer encampment under the direction of the Methodists.
It is a very beautiful place of resort, having some four hundred

cottages and an im-
mense tabernacle for
worship, lectures, con-
certs, etc. They usually
engage, for the ser-
vices in this building,
some of the foremost
minds of America.

The run of the
steamer, from Thou-
sand Island Park to
Alexandria Bay, is
superb in the charac-
teristic i.sland scenery. Hundreds of islands lie across the steamer's
tortuous and zig-zag course, all differing in vSize, coast and coloring,
and forming an intricacy of channels, through
which only the experienced pilot could guide the
way. Now we are entering a narrow pass between cliff-like banks
covered with moss and trailing creepers, then we open into a lake-
like expansion, then agam among winding courses through cluster-
ing islands and around rocky points, until we finally emerge from
the labyrinth into Alexandria Bay. This is the "Saratoga of the
St. Lawrence," and is undoubtedly the central attraction of the
whole summer life of the Thousand Islands. It is one of the most
popular as well as one of the most fashionable watering places in
America, and numbers among its frequenters some of the wealthiest
and best known men of the United States. The place boasts of
several good hotels besides numerous cottages of beautiful design.
The adjacent islands are dotted with cottages in all sorts of pictures-
que surroundings, some showing from among the trees perched on
rocky bluffs, others snugly placed on low-lying islands and nestling
in their beautiful coves. Thousands of people from all parts of the
world visit this place annually, attracted there by the fame of its
natural beauty, wholesome atmosphere, pleasant society and excel-

ALEXANORIA BAY.

The RiihcliiH e~ 0)itan'o Nwij^ixfion i'oinf^aiiv

lent fishing This Mecca of the pastime seekers of all America is built
upon a massive pile of rocks, and has an excellent view of the Thou-
sand Islands scenery. In the vicinity is a position whence a hundred
isles can be seen at one view. \'isitors to the Thousand Islands who
wish to take the trip through the liay of Ouinte can do so by taking
any of the Richelieu Company's steamers on the trip up the river.

About opposite Alexandria Hay, on Wellesley Island, is the
Presbyterian resort, Westminster Park. This covers an area of five
hundred acres of irregular uplands, reaching sometimes to an alti-
tude of one hundred and fifty feet. From these heights, easily
accessible on foot or by carriage, the Thousand Islands can be
viewed along the river for a distance of twenty miles. There are an
excellent hotel and many pretty cottages strewn about. Worship is
conducted every Sunday throughout the season.

The steamer now leaves Alexandria Hay and runs down the
widening channel among the outskirting islands, some decked with
pine and firs, and some but arid granite rocks, until it passes the
" Three Sisters," the final pickets of the archipelago, and leaves the
Manatoana, the Garden of the Great Spirit, as the Indians named
the Thousand Islands, finally behind.

Scarcely have we won ourselves from the still lingering images
of the beautiful island scenery we have passed through, when we
come in view of the spires and roofs of the town of
Brockville. This town, named after General Brock,
the hero of Queenstown Heights, 1812, is built on an elevation
which ascends by successive ridges from the St. Lawrence . It is
on the main line of
the Grand Trunk
Railway, and a
branch of the Cana-
dian Pacific Rail-
way runs from it to
Ottawa. It has con-
nection by ferry
with the Rome,
Watertown and
Ogdensburg Rail-
way. Its population
is about 9,000, and
it is a progressive

4 A PICNIC PARTY AMONG THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.

BROCKVILLE.

ir:

III

5<^>

I'yotn Xhiiiiirif to tin Sdi.

PRESCOTT.

husiiiess centre. Its public and private buildings compare favour-
ably with any in Canada.

The steamer next conies to Prescott named after General
Prescott, a town of some 4,000 inhabitants, just about opposite the
American city of Ogdensburj.;. Among its note- worthy
places of interest are lH)rt Wellington, named after the
Iron Duke, the Tomb of Barbara Heck, one of the founders of
Methodism in America, at the little blue church on the river bank,
and the famous Windmill, with its narrow loop-holes peeping from
its side. This is the windmill that figured in the in.surrection of
1837 as the .stronghold of the " Patriots" under the unhappy Van
Schultze. 'Ohese desperate men were forced to surrender, aftc"
several days' defence, and Van Schultze and nine others w<
executed at Fort Henry. The Government have since converw^*
the W^indmill into a splendid lighthouse. Pre.scott has .several
large commercial houses, among.st others, J. P. Wiser Manufacturing
Company's distillery, The Pre.scott Brewing Company, and several
others. Daniels' Hotel is the favourite resort for travellers.

Leaving this historic ground, our steamer courses serenely on
her way, and now bearing to the right di.scloses the imposing group
of buildings of the Point Airy New York vState Asylum, the central,
administration building, of which we give an illustration. Perched
upon the banks which overhang the river, their situation is magni-
ficent. A little further on. to our left, we pass Chimney Island,
which during the French regime was strongly fortified. The calm
stretch of the river varied here and there by a few islands would
scarcely prepare us for the boisterous scenes we are soon to pass
through. But soon after the last glimpse of Prescott fades in the
distance, we pass through the first of the troubled waters of the
St. Lawrence, the Gallops. These are only a foretaste of what is
to follow, for as the spires and roof tops of the town of Morrisburg

are seen through the trees, we find ourselves,
on rounding an intervening point, in

full view of the

Rapids du Plat, as
they swirl their dark
green waters among
a group of wooded
islands and beneath
the shadow of their

Tlu /\i(/u'li('ii c~ (hiliiiio Xaviiintioii Cotu/)aiiv.

LONG SAULT RAPIDS.

overhatiKinj; trees. AfUr shootiiij^ the clii Plat, tlu' steaiiu-r ^Hdi-'s
with .stea(Hly increasing motion, ])ast a i)ictures(|ue point Jiamed

W'oodhinds and in anionj; bohler shores, on the
north side of Croyles Island, into sii>;]it of the
turbulent surface of the Lon^ Sault, with its snow-crested billows
of raj^ing water. This, the first one of the really remarkable rapids
of the St. Lawrence, extends some nine miles down stream to

A VIEW ON THE ST. LAWRENCE. 1-KOM THE STEAMER'S DECK.

Cornwall, divided into two main channels by numerous beautifully
wooded islands. The "shooting of the rapids," as the descent by
boat is called, is a most exciting experience. We see before us a
seething mass of churning waters, rushing with headlong speed
down a decided declivity which stretches ahead, apparently without
termination, far as the eye can reach. Each moment we feel our-
selves and our great vessel being further drawn into the Charybdis
jaws of the mighty current, among its angry darkling eddies, past
jutting headlands, close to insiduous rocks, while the roar of the
surges, the foaming spray that dashes over the vessel, intensifies
the excitement caused by her swift downward and undulating
movement. With her steam almost completely shut off, she dashes

¥■■■

4i.

I'^rom Niagara to the Sea.

%ii

■-'51

in anionj^ the waves that seem to advance to meet her up the hill,
and is carried along, by sheer force of the current, at a speed of
twenty miles an hour, guided alone by the extra-manned helm,
past the dangerous places amid the ocean roar and tumult of the
lashing surf. Navigation of the Long Sault requires exceptional
nerve and precision in piloting as well as extra power to control the
helm ; hence, in " shooting the rapids," the rudder is provided with
a tiller (besides the regular apparatus), and this is manned, while
four men are kept at the wheel to ensure safe steering ; and, as a
result of such precautions, fatal accidents never occur.

The first passage of the Long Sault by steamer was made, about
1840, under the pilotage of the celebrated Indian Terorhialiere. Th*^
channel followed was that which has until recently been considered
the only safe one, namely the southern, on the American side of the
dividing islands. But examinations have been made in these later
days and the northern channel proven quite navigable, so that it has
become as much the highway of steamboat traffic as the southern.
To our right is the picturesque Indian village of St. Regis,
with its little cluster of houses and the glittering roof of its church
standing conspicuously among them. This church, or rather its

bell, is connected
with an histori-
cal incident of
savage Indian
revenge, in the
early days. On
its passage from
France, the bell
was captured by
an English crui-
ser, taken to
Salem, Mass.,
and sold to the
church at Deer-

HOrEVVELL HALL AND CASTLE REST, THOUSAND ISLANDS.

field, of the same
fltate. The St. Regis Indians, hearing of the capture and the
destination of their bell, proceeded stealthily to Deerfield, attacked
the town, massacred forty-seven of the inhabitants and brought one
hundred and twelve captives back with them along with the bell,
which now hangs in the St. Regis Church.

Tlic .\iihclieii & Ontario Ahivii^a/io)i Coiiipaiiy.

Nearly opposite this pretty Indian village, on the left, is the
thriving town of Cornwall, with its extensive woollen and cotton
mills. The completion of the Cornwall Canal, some
twelve miles long, with seven locks, offers a safe passage
to small craft on the eastern journey, and is the onlj' course possible
for all craft bound westward. We are now near the line which

CORNWALL.

■^:'

S4.!

i I

ONE OF THE MANY BREEZY I'OINTS AMONG THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.

divides Canada from the United States, as well as the line separating
Eastern Ontario from Quebec. The bed of the St. Lawrence expands
near Cornwall, forming the beautiful Lake St. Francis. The shores
on either side present a pleasing prospect diversified with woods and
farms. ' ' But, ' ' says a well-known writer : ' ' the chief glory of a sail
down Lake St. Francis, is the distant mountain range, blue against
the horizon, filling up the lack which the eye has vaguely felt in
the flat unbroken horizon which bounds the greater part of Ontario.
It is the Chateauguay range — a spur of the Adirondacks — some-
times drawing nearer, sometimes receding into cloud-like indistinct-
ness. At the lower end of the lake we draw up by the long wooden
pier of Coteau du Lac, whose straggling row of little
French houses, looking still smaller in contrast with the
great stone church and gleaming spire, gives evidence that we are
now in French Canada. A charming scene does this old Coteau
make as seen at sunset on the return trip, when Lake vSt. Francis,

COTEAU.

■w

From Niagara to the Sea.

still as a mirror, reflects the rich crimsons and purples of the
descending sun ; while the old brown timbers of the pier, and the
equally old and brown French Canadian houses, with the rather
Dutch looking boats moored by the pier, compose a picture to
which only a Turner could do justice."

. ^ .

.... 11,1.1 — »- . ........ .„,. — .

" " ^■■■...•...-.-^

*' "^^""""i... "■■ '^r-"-

....... ,„^8

PULLMAN ISLAND, THOirSAND ISLANDS.

Across from Coteau, on the southern side, is the distant town
of Valley field, with its huge cotton mill, at the upper end of the
Beauharnois Canal.

After leaving Coteau Landing, the steamer passes under the
magnificent iron bridge of the Canada Atlantic Railway, one of the
greatest engineering masterpieces that adorn the St. Lawrence. It
is about one mile and a half long. Shortly below this bridge we
enter the Coteau Rapids. This is a very beautiful stretch of rapids
abor*: two miles in length, and frequently having an exceedingly
swift current. It was among them that the detachment of men,
sent to Montreal during General Amherst's expedition (1759),
were lost.

About seven miles further down, we sweep past a small island
whose thickly foU&ged trees almost dip at the margin into the
hurrying stream, round a sharp curve into the Cedar Rapids. This
is a very turbulent stretch of water and its passage is most exciting.
At Limes the steamer seems to be settling as to .sink, but she swiftly
glides from threatening danger, from ominous rock to rock, until she
emerges from the rapids.

But scarcely has she left the Cedars when she enters what on
approach bodes to be the most perilous of all — the Split Rock

The Richelieu & Ontario Navii^ation Company

Rapids — sentineled by huge boulders guarding the entry. One
cannot help a shudder of fear as ship approaches this threatening
rock, but the skilful hand of the helmsman, at the opportune
moment, deftly turns the boat aside and it passes away unscathed.

The Cascades, the last of this series of rapids, is conspicuous
by its white-crested waves which mount tumultuously from the dark
green waters in such a choppy, angry way, that they make the
vessel lurch and toss as though at sea. This group of four rapids
following one another in close succession have a descent of eighty-
two and one half feet, and extend in all, about eleven miles.

Below the Cascades, the river expands into Lake St. Louis.
Almost at its head, where the Cascades' seething waters soften into
calm, the Ottawa River discharges one of its branches into the
broad St. Lawrence, and the dark waters of the northern stream
glide into the calm deep bottom of the great river, to find a purer
home and greater glory \w the resplendent beauty of the lake. On
a high spot, along the south shore of this beautiful St. Louis Lake,
is a cross reared like the serpent in the wilderness for men to look
unto in time of peril and distress — symbols not only of human
weakness and human need, but of Divine support by faith in
Him who, raised upon the cross, was typified by the brazen symbol
of the Arabian wilds. The scenery is very fine along this lake. Calm
and shadowy, the Chateauguay hills rear their lofty heads behind
the trees, lower down the dim outline of Mount Royal can be seen
while further on, the cloudy tops of Beloeil, St. John and Shefibrd
loom against the
sky. From the
point of confluence
of the Ottawa and
St. Lawrence, the
shore, on our left
as we go down, is
the Island of Mont-
real. Along its
margin can be seen
the cottages of
campers from Mont-
real who come here
in large numbers
to spend the sum-

POINT AIRY STATK ASYLUM (OPPOSITE PRKSCOTT.)

i;i

:);■.,►•

From Niagara to llic Sea.

■iil

LACHINE.

mer niontlis. It is a most pleasant place of resortboth on account
of its convenient proximity to the city and on account of its
engaging scenery and wholesome surroundings. There are several
yacht and boating club houses here and there, such as the Royal
St. Lawrence Yacht Club, a little above the head of Dorval
Island, also the Forest and vStream Club.

After issuing from the lake, we come to the town of Lachine,
nine miles from Montreal. This place is associated with the name
of La Salle, who, about the year 1 670, obtained a grant of
land from the Seminary of Montreal, and here formed a
settlement, giving to it the name of Lachine. It was La Salle who,
during his wanderings in the land of the Illinois, first pitched upon
Chicago as a trading post.

At this village, the famous Lachine Canal commences, having
been built to overcome the descent of the river in the Lachine
Rapids. Even as we pass along, we can see the enclosed waters of
the canal bearing upon their bosom the huge form of some up-going
steamer. It is to this little village of Lachine that people come from

Montreal by train to shoot
the rapids. A most exciting
method is to shoot the rapids
in a skiff, under the skillful
guidance of the Indians as
is shown in cut on page 60.
It is apparently, at first
sight, impossible for so
small a boat to live in so
wild a current of waters, but
the Indians are so thor-
oughly acquainted with the
shoals and dangerousplaces,
as well as with the frantic
humours of the fierce cur-
rent, that the feat is some-
times risked by those seek-
ing excitement.

Across from 'Lachine is

the Indian village, Caugh-

nawaga, on the south bank

01 D wrNnMiLi- NEAR pREPcoTT ot tnc rivcr. Its uanic,

(held hv i'aikiot khbels in 1S37.)

■ " ♦. .
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The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company

meaning "praying Indian," is very appropriately attached to the
inhabitants who are devoted adherents of the Roman Catholic faith,
and annually, in June, join in the celebration of the Fete-Dieu,
accoutred in their tribal paint and ornaments.

After passing this village, we come to the magnificent iron
bridge of the C. P. R. It is a beautiful structure built on the

-I

LACHINE RAPIDS.

INDIAN VILLAGE OF CAUGHNAWAOA, OPPOSITE LACHINE.

cantilever principle, much resembling the International Railway
Bridge at Niagara.

Pas.sing under the bridge, the steamer glides into the mid-stream
that moves with the calm majesty of irresistible power and speed,
indicative of the coming rapids, which appear full
in view as we sweep around an intercepting curve.
And now we are before the fiercest, most celebrated, most difficult
of navigation, as well as the last of the great St. Lawrence rapids —
the Machine. A universal stillness reigns among the passengers on
deck, and their hearts throb with a dubious expectation as they look
fcward to the glittering sheet of foaming breakers ahead, with their
two little green islets, dashing through the spray. Human speech
can find no tongue in such a scene, but awe and the overpowering
sense of the mighty forces in raging activity around, inspires the
thrilling stillness of a mingled fear and pleasure in every soul —
fear at the awful possibility of some miscarriage in our descent,
pleasure in the triumphant exhibition of the " fla.sh and cloud of the
cascade, of the earthquake and foam-fire of the cataract," combined
with the howling multitude of waters and the vast swtep and

\,.

¥:

I J

m-'

From Niagara to the Sea.

surging of the ocean wave. In we plunge among the breakers, and
the headlong current bears us towards the shelving and insidious
rocks, sometimes hidden, sometimes disclosed to view with the dark
suggestion of others couched unseen beneath the water. Deftly we
pass them by within a few yards of their treacherous edges, through
foam, through mountain billows, with our bows .sometimes ap-
parently submerged, through hurrying eddy and swirling whirlpool,
through clouds of spray ascending from the churning abyss crowned
with the iridescence of a hundred rainbows, and amid the thunderous
voices of the surging deeps. A moment more, we have completed
the descent and ride in tranquility the placid bosom of the river
beneath, with a sense of relief born of the contemplated danger past.
Had we but deviated to right or left by so much as a few yards, or
cast our length athwart the stream, we had been hurled, by the
angry current, upon the rocks to utter wreck, or instantly capsized,
submerged and rolled amid a raging wilderness of waves. But the
cool hand and clear eye of the pilot is equal to the perilous work,
and it is a notable fact that no accident of any consequence has ever
happened, nor has a single life been lost in the course of many years
of steamboat navigation on these wonderful rapids.

Passing by the beautifully wooded shores of Nun's Island,
we come before the famous Victoria Bridge — one of the wonders of
the continent and one of the greatest engineering achievements of the
age. It connects Montreal with the south shore of the St. Lawrence

by the Grand Trunk Railway, and thus, with
the Canadian Pacific Railway Bridge above,
'ides the alternate route by rail across the
river. It is built of iron on the tubular
principle. There are two abutments and
/, twenty-four piers of solid masonry,
extending in all some two miles. The
tube, through which the trains pass,
is some twenty-two feet high by six-
teen feet wide. The structure cost
$6,300,000. It is the product of the
same minds that spanned the Menai
Straits, Robert Stephenson and A. M.
Ross, and it stands a lasting monument
to their genius, the embodiment in iron
and stone of the glorious ideas which

The Richelieu & Ontario A^ivii^ation Company.

<jave it birth. It is a striking contrast to the more modern Canadian
Pacific Railway Bridge with its lighter, more aerial structure. The
latter gives the impression of neatness, even of frailty, while the
former has stamped upon its face the mark of massiveness and
enduring power, like the great primeval works of nature made to
stand forever. It is a grand sight to stand upon this bridge,

CANADIAN PACiFIC KAILWAV BRIDGE, LACHINK.

^^\

looking forth from one of the openings in the central piers, and
watch the shipping passing underneath upon the bosom of the
curling waters, to see the hurrying streams gather in mounds before
each pier, then glide away on either side in angry eddy and in wave;
to look along the row of massive piers converging in the distance,
with the great iron tube upon their shoulders, reaching into Montreal.
Sweeping beneath the great bridge, we come in full view of the
city of Montreal, with its teeming harbour, with its beautiful public
buildings of massive stone ; its churches, its cathedrals with gleam-
ing pinnacles, and domes and cupolas ; its famous parks ; its learning,
its colleges ; and, most of all, with its royal mountain, lifting its
imperial head above the rush and din of commerce like an altar
open to great and small, to rich and poor, to come to, offering up
their sacrifice of adoration for so much beauty and grandeur freely
sjiven them, both from the hand of man and from the hand of nature.

lill

lii

'4'v

I'rom A'iaqara io the Sea.

As we move through the crowded harbour, we pass here and there
the huge forms of ocean vessels at their moorings. Away ahead we
catch a ghmpse of the towers of Notre Dame and the massive dome
of St. Peter's rising above the other structures, giving us a distant
foretaste, in their sunset glory, of the myriad beauties which lie
wrapt in the hidden bosom of the splendid city. We come to port
near St. Helen's I.sland, once a military stronghold, but now trans-
formed into a magnificent park ; the steamer first stopping at Com-
missioners' Wharf to transfer its passengers to the Quebec steamer,
and then continuing to canal basin.

As tourists generally prefer to visit Montreal on their way
home, we will reserve for the return trip a description of the interest-

SHOOTING THE LACHINE RAPIDS— PAST.

ing points of the city, and sail on down the St. Lawrence towards
Quebec and the Saguenay.

The journey down the S . Lawrence, from Montreal to Quebec,
in one of the palatial steamers that ply on this route, is as pleasant a
trip as could be taken anywhere in America.

Leaving Montreal in the evening, we first pass Longueuil, a
small village on the south bank, and the summer residence of many
Montrealers. Longueuil is memorable in history
stI' LAWRENCE ^°^ ^^^^ rcpulsc of General Carleton, in 1775, by the
Americans. A little down on the north shore is
Longue Pointe. At a distance of nine miles from Montreal, we see
Pointe-aux-Trembles, founded in 1674. Here is one of the old

i-..

The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company.

6 1

French churches, built in 1709. Soon afterwards, we find ourselves
among the Islands of Houcherville. These islands are mostly low
and flat, with very shallow water among them, and a thick growth
of reeds and weeds, affording excellent duck shooting and pike
fishing, but wanting in scenery from their extreme flatness. Here

Iri

A RICHELIEU STEAMER ENTERING THE LACHINE RAPIDS— PRESENT.

V'":

i*<i

From Niagara to the Sea,

it is that the ice grounds, on the break up of winter, occasionally
causing an inundation. At a distance of fifteen miles we pass
Varennes, one of the most prettily situated places l)etween Montreal
and Quebec. It lies with the vSt. Lawrence in front and the Riche-
lieu in its rear. Mineral springs of great virtue are situated here.

At a distance of forty
miles we pa.ssBerthier,
on the north shore,
opposite to the en-
trance of the Riche-
lieu, and to numerous
i.slandssimilar to these
of Boucherville ; till
five miles farther
down, at the junction
of the Richelieu, we
arrive at Sorel, lately
raised to the dignity
of a city. Sorel was
once called William
Henry, after William
IV., who, when in
the navy, and lying off Quebec, visited this place, coming up
in his vessel to Lake St. Peter, whence he took a small boat
upwards. It stands on the site of the fort having been built by de
Tracy in 1665, and was for many years the summer residence of suc-
cessive governors of Canada. There is splendid snipe shooting in
this neighbourhood in October, and very good fishing all through
the year, among the numerous islands which here stud the surface
of the river. About five miles further down, the river expands into
a vast sheet of water, about twenty-five miles long and nine miles
broad, which is known as Lake St. Peter. This lake is, for the most
part, quite shallow, except in the channel, which has been dredged
so as to enable the largest ocean steamers to pass up and down. In
passing through this lake, the traveller, is sure to see several rafts
on their way downwards. The songs of the raftsmen were once a
delightful melody on these waters, but the towing system has done
away with much of the old romance of the river.

Passing the mouth of the St. Francis, which flows in from the
Easttrn Townships, near which is a settlement of the Abenaquis

IMMIGRANTS MEMORIAL STONE.

tiu,.

The RiclulicH &^ On fa no Navii^a/ion Company.

^\S

Indians, we arrive at the city of Three Rivers, situated on the north
shore of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the St. Maurice River,
which here separates into tliree channels, whence the name of the
city is derived, and lying about midway between Ouebec and Mont-
real, being about ninety miles from either of the cities. This is a
most interesting place in many respects. Ik-njamin Suite, the
French Canadian poet and historian, has worked its mines of
historical lore to noble uses, and given it a fame greater than
its lumber and iron industries could ever achieve. The French
began the smelting of iron here as early as 1737. Three Rivers is
the see of a Roman Catholic bishopric. The cathedral is a .stately
edifice, and the neighbourhood is rich in associations to any one who
cares to explore them.

Opposite Three Rivers is Doucet's Landing, the terminus of the
Arthabaska and Three Rivers branch of the Grand Trunk Railway,
thus keeping this section cnsy of access from the south, as the rail-
way on the north shore does on the other side. Here we may
be said to be at the head of tide water, the home of the Tommy-cod
fishery. Continuing our journey, we pa.ss Batiscan, called after a
famous Indian chief known to the first settlers ; then Ste. Anne
and the Jacqnes-Cartier River, after which the land on the river
banks begins to rise, presenting a more bold and picturesque appear-

VICTORIA BRIDGE, G. T. R., MONTREAL.

From Niii\iani to the Sen.

v-^-^n.

atice as we near (Quebec. Ste. Augustine and St. Antoine, two
pretty villages, are soon passed, and the mouth of the Chaudicre is
the next object of interest. Here, .some twelve or more miles from

(Quebec, in the seclusion of the woods, are
the falls of the Chaudicre. a river which,
flowing through the auriferous di.strict of
the Ivastern Townships, and L')ound-
ing, tlirough its course of one hundred
miles, in rapids, precipitates itself down-
wards over a hundred feet into a rocky
and chaotic basin, where, during the
spring floods, the roaring of the waters
and the fantastic clifTs and hedges on
either side combine to make a deep
impression on the mind.

Continuing our way, we come to
Pointe Levis, nearly opposite Quebec, on
the south-western iiore. Before us is the
gran gateway of the St. Lawrence, the famous
Citadel of Quebec, with its majestic memories of mystery, adventure,
victory and defeat. The battle ground where Wolfe won for Eng-
land, and the Celto-Brittanic race, the illimitable Dominion of the
North and West.

From these high cliffs and from under these grey old walls, the
first pioneers of what is now the granary of the world, went forth
into the unknown wilderness. From this antique city, also, departed
the first missionaries.carrying the me.ssage of the cross to distant tribes
and nations. But that which must forever give Quebec its chief
claim to the attention of the traveller is its historical battle-field. It
is impossible to stand here and reflect on the momentous conse-
quences of Wolfe's victory without feeling the influence of the spirit
of the scene.

But philosophic melancholy in these
days gives way at Quebec to more joyful
influences, for it is one of the most de-
lightful places socially to be found any-
where in the world. Whether it be
summer or winter, the people of the
ancient capital take full enjoyment out
of life and strive to make the stranger

i is

O
»5

1 1

if*^

From Niagara to the Sea.

feel at home. Founded by Samuel de Champlain, A.D. 1608,
nearly three centuries have giv-en the fortress city a history rich
in material for the philosopher, the poet and the romancer. Among
the records, associations, and scenes thus brought together, the
traveller, if so inclined, may find endless fields for research, ac-
quaintanceship or observation. He will find the pretty souvenir
book, "Illustrated Quebec." which he can buy for one dollar,
a charming guide and memento of his visit.

To all old friends, to those who dwell
Secure in j'onder Citadel
To old Quebec, whose glorious fame
Few cities of to-day may claim.
Quebec : Past, present and to be
Greeting, our pen shall tell of thee.

Quaint, cmicus bid Quebec, whose winding streets and frown- :
ing battlements are pervaded with the atmosphere of departed :
centuries. Here is the spot where the refined luxury of

QUEBEC. ■

the Old World first touched the barbaric wilderness of
the New. Here is the cradle of Canada. Quebec seems to have,
been specially formed by Nature for the important part assigned to
her in the drama of this continent, for, from her commanding emi- ,
nence, she holds the position pf guardian and sentry of Canada. In i
reviewing the history of Quebebv^i^e meet the interesting figure of
that intrepid explorer, Jacques Cartier. In 1535, Jacques Cartier
sailed from France, under a commission from Francis I. , in hope of
discovering a new highway to the Indies, and also of adding to the i
possessions of his native land.-' .Sailing up the magnificent river, he ■
gave to it the name of St. Lawrence, and, on the 14th of September,
he reached the mouth of a little tributary, which he called Ste. Croix.
Here he cast anchor. The natives of the village of Stadacona,
headed by their chief, Donnacona, paddled out in their birch bark
canoes to meet the strangers, having, been attracted by the novelty
of their wondrous vessels. "■%.:

The meeting of Jacques Carticir and the chief appears to have
been friendly, for he willingly conducted the explorers to the summit
of the rock, and to the little village which nestled beneath. What
a wondrous picture was spread out before him from this noble
height. Clothed in the primeval grandeur of Nature, enriched
with the glory of autumnal tints, no prospect could be more
enchanting, no wealth more unbounded, than that which was

F ^

The Richelieu & Ontario Navioatiou Company

enfolded in the bosom of these
mighty solitudes. Jacques
Cartier had yet to learn that
there was another side to this
rosy picture, for, with the
fading of the leaves, the first
signs of winter approached.
Beautiful, indeed, are the win-
ters of Canada, but we are
prepared for them — Cartier
was not. Untold were the
sufferings of these explorers
during the five months that
they were bound in the grip
of ice and snow. With the
THE ciTADPL, QUEBEC. Tctum of spriug, Jacques Car-

tier sailed again for France, but nothing came of his voyage. The
time had not yet come, and nearly a century was to elapse before
the foiader of New France appeared. In 1608, Samuel de Champlain

From Niagara to the Sea.

planted the white flag of France upon the heights of Quebec.
Champlain was a man of undaunted courage, a soldier, sailor,
statesman, and possessing the heart and soul of a hero. No man
was ever more fitted to found, develop and rule an empire than he.
And it is to his untiring efforts and genius that we are indebted
for the Canada of to-day.

•V 1

^^L_

^^^K wBBBWBBH

^^^^^!

^^^^^H^"

NEW ST. LOUIS GATE, QUEBEC.

But let us wend our way through the winding streets until we
gain the sum"^it of the frowning rocks, where we can take in :i
view none the less beautiful than that which met the gaze of Cham
plain or Jacques Cartier. From Dufferin Terrace, or from the Cita-
del, still higher, the pictures spread out beneath our feet can nowhere
else be duplicated. Here the lily banner of the Bourbons and the
time-worn flag of England have been unfurled in token of supre-
macy. All the memory-haunted scenes of a glorious past swee]>
before our gaze. Yonder is the spot where the noblest sons of
France and England fought for the empire of this land, in the
memorable battle of the Plains of Abraham. No pen is needed to
tell the glory of their death. Behind Dufferin Terrace, in the Gov-
ernor's Garden, the granite column tells their story, by its simple
inscription: "In Memory of Wolfe and Montcalm." Vanquisher
and vanquished lie silent in the tomb, but their names are linked
together in an indissoluble wreath of glory. Nestled together
below us are the antique gables, the peculiar roofs, the quaint spires,
and the historic walls that take us back into the last century, and

The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company

:c.
»r.
m
e.
id

•side by side with them, increasing their interest, are the grand mod-
t-rn structures of the present.

With a copy of " Ilhistrated Quebec," in hand, we commence
n leisurely survey of the picture before us. Every stone in the
walls of Quebec has a history, and every spot of ground is rendered
sacred by the souvenirs of the past.

Behind us rise the grey walls of the ancient citadel, and imme-
<liately under us is the city with its strange confusion of buildings,
all cast, as it were, at random upon the declivities of a mountain,
iind tumbling down in wild confusion to the shores of the great river
below. We do not propose going into all the details of the peculiar
historical attractions of Quebec ; we will take a rapid glance at the
scene before us.

Looking awa^. beyond the churches and monuments, the ram-
parts and gates, we behold a picture that no pencil could delineate
and no poet could describe. Over the heights of Levis, and above
its frowning fortifications, rises the summer sun ; his beams gild the
spires of a hundred historic buildings, each with a story that might
be the basis of a real romance. Still looking to the right, the Isle
of Orleans divides the waters of the St. Lawrence, and looks up to
the citadel as a child to a protecting parent. Then across the stream

' " Where yonder mouutains cracked

And sundered by volcanic fire,

Sings Montmorency's cataract; ' ,

Fit chord for such a granite lyre."

111

r:,

OLD ST. LOUIS GATE (INTERIOR) QUEHKC.

From Niiiiiara to the Sea.

Then the long thin village of Beauport stretches its serpentine length
along the shore and basks in the rays of the rising sun. Beyond
the Beauport Flats arise the blue Laurentians, mound over mound,
till they blend with a few fleecy clouds upon the distant horizon.
From out the forests and fields glances the steeple of the Charle-
bourg Church, a hamlet with a history of its own ; behind this again
appears the humble, but still more interesting, chapel of the Indian
village of Lorette. Lorette, the home of the Huron, the last resting-

GRAND BATTERY. QUEBEC.

jplace of that warrior tribe as its braves disappear like the snow before
the sun of civilization. Of yore, the Huron of Lorette treated with
Montcalm, and fired his arrows at the invader ; to-day the old chief
sits at his door and teaches the rising generation to shoot arrows at
the copper and silver pieces which the traveller sets up to test their
skill. Still turning westward, we notice the sinuosities of the St.
Charles, as it rolls through green meadows down to its confluence
with the St. Lawrence. Yonder is the " Monument of the Brave,"
on the Ste. Foye Road, beside it is a Martello tower, nearer still
is the Wolfe Shaft on the Plains ; scenes once glorious and terrible
in the days of immemorable conflict.

We will start our visit to the city with the Chateau Frontenac.
The site of this beautiful hotel is that of the ancient Chateau St.

The Rkhclieu & Oiitario Navigation Company.

Louis, for above two centuries the seat of the Government of the
Province. The hall of the old fort, in the early days of the
colony, was often the scene of terror and despair at the inroads of
the Iroquois, who, having passed all the French outposts, threat-
ened the fort itself, a.nd massacred some friendly Iroquois within
sight of its walls.

The Chateau Frontenac is a magnificent new fire-proof hotel,
situated at the eastern end of DufFeriu Terrace, commanding delight-
ful views of the St. Lawrence as far as the eye can reach, — down
past the Isle of Orleans, across to L,6vis and beyond, up stream to
Sillery, and, to the left, the country along the beautiful valley of the
St. Charles River. It has been planned with that strong sense of
the fitness of things. In exterior it blends with its surroundings ;
it is part of the wondrous picturesqueness, while the interior is a
monument to the skill of the architect, who has retained the maxi-
mum of comfort and beauty without sacrificing the outlook; which
has been obta^ined by constructing the hotel in the shape of a
horseshoe.

The foundations of the original castle, dating 1620, can
be seen still under Dufferin Terrace.'

While we are mentioning hotels, we ./:. . *

cannot omit the Hotel Victoria, ' I; ,. ..

a more modest and homelike
hotel, situated on
St. John street, ^■

outside of

3i'

I' ■

i-iy

From Niagara to the Sea.

the cily walls, and commanding a view of the valley of the
St. Charles River.

DufFerin Terrace was first laid out by the Earl of Durham,
Governor-General of Canada in 1838. During the administration
of the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, however, it was improved and
enlarged into the present promenade, and has since been known as
DufFerin Terrace. "Of all the historic monuments," writes Mr.
LeMoine, " connecting modern Quebec with its eventful and historic
past, none more deservedly hold a higher place in the estimation of
the antiquarian, the scholar, and the curious stranger, than the
former gates of the renowned fortress. These relics of a by-gone
age, with their massive proportions and grim mediaeval architecture,
no longer exist, however, to carry the mind back to the days which
invest the oldest city in North America with its peculiar interest

and attraction." But Quebec
is still a fortress, and through
the efforts of Lord Dufferin,
a scheme of restoration was
carried out which preserves
the ancient character of the
city, and facilitates the require-
ments of modern progress.
A stroll around the ramparts, and an inspection of the pictu-
resque and substantial archways, gives the visitor a good idea of the
military strength of the city. In the midst of these standing
evidences of defiance or defence, we may trace the dominant influ-
ence of a greater power, in the embodiment of its religious institu-
tions, still breathing the monastic spirit of the seventeenth century.
Crowning the cliffs stands the University of Laval, the chief seat of
French culture in the Dominion. In its foundation may be traced
the intellectual development of the country. To the visitor the
University possesses a peculiar charm, and many a priceless relic
and work of art may be found within its walls. It has been called
after the famous bishop, Mgr. de Laval de Montmorenci, who
endowed it liberally, as did all his successors. Apart from the
boarding house— for medical and law students — and the special
buildings for the medical classes, the main body of the University
consists of an immense six-story edifice about two hundred and fifty
feet in length and seventy in depth. It looks down from the high
rock — two hundred feet above the river — upon the most magnificent

MARTELLO TOWER.

77n- Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company

/."»

scene that nature, combined vvitli human invention, can present in
America. Its triple towers and cross-crowned cupola, seem to rise
into the very heavens. Imposing as the edifice is from the outside,
it is a treasure-hou.se within. Its lecture halls, its professors' rooms.

Wi'

IN CHAMPLAIN STREET, LOWER TOWN. QUEBEC.

i .

Fro7n Niagara to the Sea.

^\-

its classes of chemistry, physics, and mechanical science — filled with
specimens of every modern invention or appliance, would suffice to
keep a stranger hours in pleasant invevStigation. Its vast library,
one of the most extensive and rare in Canada, is a treasure in itself.
Its museum certainly surpasses anything of the class in the country.
Among the celebrated masters represented in the gallery of Laval
may be mentioned Salvator Rosa, Teniers, Romenelli, Joseph Vernet,
Paget, and Perocci Poussin.

On the cliff, near the entrance, may be pointed out the spot
where the gallant General Montgomery fell, at <^he head of the
storming party, December 31, 1775.

Another fine edifice that claims our attention is the Basilica,
near the old Market Square. It is built on the site of the ancient
Church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Recouvrance, erected in 1633, by
Samuel de Champlain, to commemorate the restoration of the colony
by Britain. Within this ancient church were interred the remains
of Laval — perhaps the most historic figure in the annals of New
France — Frontenac, and many other of her worthies. The Basilica
contains, amongst other valuable paintings, the Christ of the Cathe-
dral, by Van Dyke, and the Ecstacy of St. Paul, by Carlo Maratti,
Soime of the pictures were brought to Canada from France during
the Revolution. The square opposite where the new City Hall is
being erected, is the site of the old Jesuit College, the last trace of
which was removed a few years ago. There is interest even in the
site of this old building, for it was the oldest college in America,
dating from the year 1635. Within its walls the martyrs Lalement,
Brebeuf, and Vipond, taught, and Pere Marquette drew his plans
that led to the establishment of Christianity on the banks of the
Mississippi. Adjoining the Basilica is the Cardinal- Archbishop's
Palace, the residence of His Eminence Cardinal Taschereau.

' The next building that claims our attention is the UrSuline
Convent, on Garden street. The convent is beautifully situated in
a garden of seven acres extent, and owes its origin to the religious
zeal of Madame de la Peltrie and Mere Marie de 1' Incarnation, two
remarkable women, whose devotion has formed themes for poets and
historians. The date of th^ earliest foundation was 1641, iand of the
present 1686. There is a small picture preserved here which por-
trajys a touching tradition of th^ early days of Canada. Montcalm,
wiio fell so gloriously in the battle contending with Wolfe for
supremacy on the Heights of Abraham, is buried in the chapel.

I'vom Niagara to the ^ca.

Lord Aylmer, Governor- General of Canada in i8;, i, caused a
simple marble tablet to be placed above the tomb, bearing this
inscription :

HONNHI'R

M O N T C A I, M

1,1-: I)i:STIN HN MI DKKOBANT LA VICTOIKK

I/A KKCOMPKNSI'v par ink MOKT GI.ORIKISK

Montcalm's tomb is said to have been formed by the bursting
of a shell durin<j the ^eige of the city.

The Hotel-Dieu. or Hospital of the Precious Blood, was founded
in 1639, by a niece of Cardinal Richelieu. uring the seventeenth
century it played an importnnt part in the religious life of the French

colony. Attach-

••T* . ed to the convent

is the chapel
which contains
the bones of Fa-
ther Lalement
and the skull of
Falher Jean de
Brebeuf. An in-
teresting episode
in the history of
Canada, during
the last century,
attaches to a re-
lic in the posses-
sion of the Ladies
of the Hotel-
Dieu. In 1742,
a soldier ot the
Montreal Garri-
son professed to
be a sorcerer,
and, in further-
ence of his pre-
tensions, had
profaned sacred
(;bjtcts. He had

NOTRE-DAME-DKS-VICTOIRES, QUEBEC.

1..J-'

The Richiiicit & Oniaiio Navii^adoii Compnuv.

taken a crucifix and, covering it with an innaiual)le substance,
exposed it to the tlames. at the same time reciting certain passages
of vScripture. Pubhc indignation was sd great that he was arrested
and sentenced to make a
public reparation in front
of the parish church of
Montreal. The Bishop of
Quebec obtained the cru-
cifix and presented it to the
Ladies of the H6tel-I)ieu,
where it is still piously
preserved.

A place that is specially
attractive to visitors from
the United Statts is num-
ber 42 St. Louis street. In
it were deposited the re-
mains of Brigadier-General
Montgomery, on the 31st
December, 1775.

The quaint old Church
of Notre-Dame-des-Vic-
toires, erected in 1688, must
also be visited, as it is asso-
ciated with several warlike events : the memorable repulse of Sir
William Phipps' attack on Quebec, on the i6th October, 1690,
and the providential escape of the town from surrender to Sir
Hovenden Walkers' formidable fleet, wrecked on the 22nd August,
171 1. During the seige of Quebec, in 1759, a portion of the church
was destroyed by the batteries from Levis.

Every turn that we take in Quebec brings us face to face with
some memorial of the past, and most of its streets perpetuate the
names of its worthies. Among the curious streets that every visitor
is stire to see may be mentioned Sous-le-Cap and the site of the once
famous Breakneck Stairs. Kven that modern-looking building, the
Post Office, has its history, for it is built on the site of an old legen-
dary-haunted house, known as Le Chien d'Or. There, in the wall, we
can see the curious old stone, with its inscription, and its golden dog
gnawing its bone as of old, and in Mr. Kirby's novel, " The Golden
Dog," we can learn still further of its history.

MONUMENT TO WOLFE AND MONTCALM, gUEllEC.

I'' torn A'ioiiaia to I he St a.

If"

A ver3' etijoyable tour may be made, commencing :'t the Gover-
nor's (iardeii. alonj; vSt. Louis street. On the ri^^iit is Place
d'Armes, a pretty square : a military parade ground in the days of
the I'Vench regime. On the left is Kent House, the residence of the
Duke of Kent, while in Canada. It has not many attractions to
offer to the tourist, but in its day it was regarded as a palace. In

striking contrast is the
Court Hou.se, on the oppo-
site side of the street. But
contrasts are common in
Quebec, for here the old
and new meet together as
they meet nowhere else
on the continent. Close
by is the Music Hall, and
opposite is the little old-
fashioned house once occu-
pied as the headquarters
of General Montcalm.
Here he held his councils
of war and prepared his
plans for the defenc of the
city in 1759. Further on
we pass the Esplanade,
beside the city walls, used
by the British troops as a
parade ground. From here
we can see the Garrison
Club, a very interesting
place, and much appre-
ciated by the officers. Im-
mediately outside the gate,
on the right, is the Skating
Rink, and here we come in view of the handsome buildings of the
Provincial Legislature, which overlook the historic Plains of Abra-
ham.

Turning into those extensive fields that reach from St. Louis
Road to the Cliffs over Wolfe's Cove, and from the Citadel to
Spencerwood, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor, the tourist
finds himself walking upon .soil rendered sacred by the heroic

HOPE HILL, UUhHKC.

f RkhcHau & Ontario Naiii^alion Compioiy

memories of the past. There, beneath the monument that tells
a glorious story— "Here Wolfe fell victorious "—are the ashes of
countless heroes. On such a spot well might the lines of Campbell
be repeated

Ffw, lew shall part wlit-re many meet.

Thf snow shall he tluir winilinu sheet,
.Vnd every turf beneath xoiir feet

Shall he a suUlier's sepulchre."

Beyond are the Martello Towers, built in 1812 for the better
defence of the city's fortifications. Below you, and on the vSte. Foye
Road — which is reached by the Belvedere drive — stands the Monu-

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(iRANDE ALLEE AND ST. LOUIS (lATE, QUEBEC.

ment of the Brave. It has been erected to commemorate the heroism
of the men who perished at the battle of Ste. Foye.

We must now leave Quebec and cross over on the ferry-boat to
Pointe Levis, an the opposite shore. This place is equally as inter-
esting, in proportion to its size, as is Quebec itself. The finest
possible view of the old city is to be had from the Levis heights.
Especially at night, when a thousand electric lights flash upon the
scene. Quebec resembles a Venice, plus the frowning Citadel and
terraces of brilliancy rising one above the other.

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From Niagara to the Sea.

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It was from Levis that the British cannon played upon Quebec
in 1759. The fortifications to-day are of a superior class in every
sense. Immense sums have been spent upon the forts and batteries
of the hilly town. From the heights a magnificent view of the
Montmorency Falls can be had, and the drives around Levis are
as picturesque and attractive as those that lead from Quebec to the
numerous points of interest that surround the place.

Before saying adieu to these scenes of heroism, to the crumbling
relics of ancient Quebec, the tourist should join the pilgrim proces-
sion to that spot hallowed by the mystery of numerous miraculous
cures, visited by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims annually — the
Canadian Mecca — Ste. Anne de Beaupre. Let us leave Quebec, by
the Quebec, Montmorency and Charlevoix Railway, and, as we fly
along, take a glance at the beauties of the surrounding country.

The sun flings a sheet of glory over the broad St. Lawrence, the
green Island of Orleans, the white curtain of Montmorency. Off" to
the north, the rays of morning dance upon the steeples of Charle-
bourg and Lorette, pierce the white clouds upon the summits of the
Laurentians, and finally disappear in the gloom of the pine forest
that marks the limit of cultivation and the beginning of primeval
wildness. We glide past the long serpentine form of Beauport, as it
lays basking upon shore ; the little villages on Orleans, the Isle of
Bacchus, as Champlain called it, display their white cottages and
tapering spires, they whirl away into distance and give place on the
scene to fertile vales and cultivated farms. On our left, the moun-
tains grow larger and bolder, and the huge proportions of Cape
Tourmente break the uniformity of blue hills and green roads. The
last steeple on the island has just vanished, and the St. Lawrence
broadens out before us. From out a wilderness of trees, high over
a long stretch of regular fields, behind several mounds, one peak
appears to cleave the sky. Above it, birds of prey hover in security,
at its foot the hamlet of Beaupre reposes — it is the mountain of Ste.
Anne. Our train suddenly draws up at the little depot on the skirts
of the village. We descend and immediately find ourselves in the
midst of another land, in the centre of an age long past. The rude
habitant carts, the bare-footed urchins, and wooden-shod women, the
simple primitive Norman costumes, the pleasant manners of the
natives, the quaint sign-boards on the hotels, the hurrying pilgrims
and silent devotees, the grotto with its statue and fountain, the
convent of the Hospital nuns on the slope of the hill, the inspiring

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INTERIOR OK THK BASILICA, QUKBKC.

Sv..^",

From Niagara to the Sea.

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edifice of the new temple of worship, the long wharf stretching out,
as it were, to catch and hold each passing steamer, the banners,
crosses, processions, and, above all, the religious seriousness of
every person, all tell emphatically that we are at last in presence of
the world-famed shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre.

To tell the story of Ste. Anne, we must draw upon the Book of
Holy Writ, upon history and upon tradition. We will strive to tell
briefly who the honored patron of the sacred locality was and how

the spot, so remote
fron\ the then known
path of civilization,
became the focus to
which converged so
njan^' rays of faith.
Two places, Nazareth
and Sephoris — at the
foot of Mount Carmel
— contend for the honor
of being the lesidence
of Ste. Anne. Her
husband was Jo- Achim ,
or Eli- Achim. The
only offspring of that marriage was
Mar}', the one destined to become
the mother of the Redeemer, and
whose name was to be called Blessed
by all generations of men. When
the mother of the Holy Virgin died,
her remains were interred near
Jerusalem, in the Valley of Jehosha-
phat. From that vale, in the days
of the Emperoi Trajan, when Christianity was yet but a century
old, tradition tells us that a rudderless ship swept over the Mediter-
ranean with the most precious freight ever borne upon that tideless
sea. This treasure was the body of Ste. Anne, which was being
carried to France and placed in the keeping of St. Auspicius, first
bishop of Apt, a town in Provence. It was there that the great
Christian monarch, Charlemagne, found it. In after year.s, Ste.
Anne became the patroness of Britany, and at Auray a shrine was
built in her honour, and the faith of the simple Breton taught that
she there performed- miraculous cures for all who trusted in her.

MONTMORENCY FAM-S.

Tlic RiiJuiitK (j~ 0)itario A^avii^afion Com pa )t v. 8,

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MOrXT ^TI'! ANXI'. ni'LOW QUI'IiKC.

I'hoM THE ST. I.AWKKNCK.

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From Niagara to the Sea.

It was in 1608 that vSamiiel de Chaniplaiu founded the city of
Quel)ec. A few years later, a crew of Breton sailors were buffetted
most unmercifully by a terrific tempest; all hope seemed to have
fled ; all earthly succor was despaired of ; when, naturally, they
turned to the protection of their people, and they vowed to build a
shrine in honour of Ste. Anne d' Auray, should she guide them safely
through the storm. They landed, at last, under her protection, at
the spot where now stands the beautiful basilica. They built a
little chapel, in fulfilment of their promise. In 1660, it became

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'^"^^S^'^-'^X^Jm^^^^'^-

GETTING WATER FROM THE WELL AT STE. ANNE'S.

necessary to rebuild the unsubstantial edifi'^e — a primitive one indeed
it was — and a Mr. Etienne Lessard gave the land necessary fcr *:he
purpo.se. At that time, a vSulpician father — de Quen — w,i.^ parish
priest of Quebec, and he deputed Rev. Mr. Vignal to go and b'. ess
the corner stone of the new church. The then go einor of Nr^.v
France, M. d'Ailleboust, went down to the ceremony and officially
presided at the laying of the foundat'on of the first shrine to Ste.
Anne in Canada. There were then only ten churches in the country.
In 1670, the chapter of Carcassonne, in France, sent out a relic of
Ste. Anne, to be kept in the new shrine. Rich presents came from

'Jlie Richelieu & Ontario Navii^alioii Company

the Court of Louis XIV., and tlie Queen mother— Anne of Austria —
embroidered a chasuble for the service of Ste. Anne's new altar.
These were days of great faith and great glory ; this was the age
when the spirit of heroism had been revived by Turenne ; the spark
of chivalry had been stirred up by Conde ; exploits of navigators and
explorers were repeated
from lip to lip ; voya-
geurs brought back
stories of the wonder-
ful shrine upon the
banks of the majestic
St. Lawrence ; religious
fervor and national en-
thusiasm combined to
lavish gifts upon the
humble church that
stood amidst primeval
grandeur upon the con-
fines of a new world.
The Marquisde Trace3%
Viceroy of New France,
had vowed, in the hour
of shipwreck, to lay a
gift at the feet of Ste.
Anne. He fulfilled his
compact by presenting
a painting by the famed
artist Lebrun — repre-
senting Ste. Anne and
two pilgrims. It hangs
over the high altar of
the church, and beneath
it are the arms of the

IN THB CHURCH, STE. ANNE.

donor. Bishop Laval de

Montmorency gave two pictures from the brush of Luc Lefrangois, a
Franciscan Friar, and a silver reliquary set in precious stones. In
1706, LeMoine d' Iberville, the heroic pioneer soldier, presented the
massive silver crucifix now on the altar. Previous to 1866, the
niagnificeni new church was erected, also an auxiliary chapel built
with the materials, and having the decorations, steeple and bell, of

I!
I

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,t'.

From Niagara to the Sea.

the primitive church, was placed at the north side of the large
temple. The new church is two hundred feet long, one hundred and
five feet broad, fifty-six feet high internally, and has a number of
lateral chapels and a large sacristy. It was .solemnly blessed and
opened, for public worship, on the 17th of (3ctober, 1876. It was
consecrated with impo.sing ceremonies, upon the i6th of May, 1889,
by His Kminence Cardinal Taschereau. Two years after its com-
pletion — 1878 — it was placed under the charge of tlie Redemptorist
Fathers. It is of Corinthian architecture, and its twin-towers rise to
a height of one hundred and sixty-eight feet. Over the doorway,
between the steeples, is a colossal statue of Ste. Anne, which is
fourteen feet high and of exceptiond beauty. On entering, the
traveller is impressed by the richness and grandeur of the temple, as
well as surprised at the novelty of all he beholds. Ai either side of
the main entrance are pyramids of crutches and various surgical
appliances that have been left by some who found relief from their
infirmities and sufferings. One might easily spend a pleasant day
examining the beautiful paintings, diving into the lateral chapels,
watching the processions of "the lame, the halt and the blind"
coming and going, and taking in scenes that cannot be duplicated
upon the American continent. In 1889, the number of pilgrims ran
up to one hundred thousand, and in 1892, there were one hundred
and fifteen thousand two hundred and ninet}' who passed in and out
of that temple. It has only been within the past twenty or thirty
years that pilgrims have carried away the water from the little
fountain, but marvellous efficacy is attached to it. As to the
authenticity of the miracles performed at the shrine of Ste. Anne, we
are not prepared to speak, nor is it within the limits of our present
purpose. But whether the wonderful cures — hundreds of which are
as well authenticated as any fact of history — are due to the miracu-
lous intervention of the Saint, or to the faith of the devotees, or
to natural causes that have never been explained, still the cold,
undeniable, glaring facts are there. The lame have thrown away
their crutches and have walked, the blind have recovered their
power of vision, the paralytic have been relieved from their suffer-
ings, and numberless other infirmities have disappeared at Ste. Anne
de Beaupre. The writer witnessed one case — of an invalid who had
not walked for years and was carried on a chair to the altar- rails —
and the result was astounding. The infirm pilgrim arose, at a given
moment, from the chair, even as if the Son of God had repeated His
words : " Arise, take up thy bed and walk."

HOLY COMMINION AT THK SHRINE OK STK. ANNE
TROPHY OH PILGRIMS' CRUTCHES.

h'rom Nia^^ani to (he Sea.

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It matters not with what preconceived ideas yon approach this
sacred place, whether yon believe or disbelieve in the intercession of
the vSaint and in the miracnlous effects of the prayers offered np, you
cannot fail to be stirred into
emotion by all the surroundings.
If the traveller is a Roman Ca-
tholic, he finds something subli-
mely uiuisual in a pilgrimage to

A STREET IN THE V'lLLAdE OF STE. ANNE DE BEAUI-RE.

a sacred shrine; he is wafted back to the "Ages of P'aith " when
the pilgrim, with staff in hand and cross on breast, trod the weary
and lengthy paths that led to the centres of devotion ; he feels an
indescribable inspiration in the presence of so much fervor, so
much evidence of sincerity and its reward ; he bends before the
altar, in presence of a pyramid of crutches, canes, and other
objects that tell of the hundreds of cures operated, and he rises
up a better man, a truer Christian, with higher ideals, loftier
conceptions. If the tourist.be a non-Catholic, he cannot fail to
admire the simple faith of the numerous pilgrims that he will meet
at the shrine, he must see in it all a something, so unlike our
matter-of-fact electric and steam-working age, that it leads him back
irresistibly into past ages. He there beholds what he might never
adequately comprehend -the fervor with which millions have been
filled by enthusiastic preachers of holy pilgrimages ; he can satiate
the most craving appetite for the mystic. Even were the excursionist

The RichcliiU c~ Ontario Navigation Company

an unbeliever — an Atheist — he must be improved in some way or
other by a visit to Ste. Anne de Beanpre. The traveller who goes to
8te. Anne for devout purposes most decidedly has chosen the proper
route and the proper terminus ; the one who visits the place through
curiosity is certain to have full and entire satisfaction, and may rely
that in leaving he will have felt perfectly contented with the trip ;
the person who undertakes the journey, no matter with what motive
or with what intention, and who has eyes to see and ears to hear, as
well as an imagination to be kindled and a soul to be stirred into
life, must return home thankful that, before his voyage of life has
drawn to a close, he has enjoyed a real education and excursion
combined.

With Ste. Anne's we must close our description of the interest-
ing .spots in the vicinity of Quebec, and embark on board the
Saguenay River palace sleambor.t on our journey .seaward.

Up to June 13th, Steamers leave Quebec for the vSaguenay and
intermediate Ports, on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 8 a.m.

From June i6th to July 14th, the splendid Steamers Carolina
and Canada will leave on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and
Saturdays, and from July 13th until further notice, daily (Sundays
excepted) at 8 a.m.

The Steamers leave Chicoutimi the day following their depar-
ture from Quebec, it 9.30 a.m.

Leaving the Island of Orleans on our left, we glide along past
picturesque villages, pointed .spires, towering hills, on towards the

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HAIK Sr. PALL, ItKLOVV ylKlihC.

From Niiv^aia to Ihv Sea.

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Cape of Torments, and the region so rich in folk-lore. Chateau
Richer, and the blue peak of Mount .Ste. Anne appear in the
distance and soon we pass (^,rosse Isle, the (luarantine station of the
vSt. lyawrence, where, in 1847-S, thousands of emigrants perished

MURRAY HAY.

during a frightful rage of fever. From here the river begins to
expand, and we are soon in the broad open waters that .seem to have
the proportions of a sea. Soou we come in view of Baie St. Paul
and Isle aux Coudres. In 1663, Baie St. Paul was the scene of a
fierce elemental war. For six months and a half shocks were felt
throughout Canada. Along the St. Lawrence meteors filled the air
which was dark with smoke and cinders, the gra.ss withered and
crops would not grow. New lakes were formed and the appearance
of the shore was altered, and a hill descended into the waters, and
emerged to form an island. Isle aux Coudres has its legend gather-
ing round the memory of Pere La Brosse, the faithful priest of the
Hudson's Bay post at Tadousac. The legend runs that the priest,
one evening, while conversing with his little flock, told them that at
midnight he would be a corpse, and at that hour the bell of the
chapel would toll for the passing soul. He told them not to touch
his body, but to hasten, whatever the weather, on the following day
to Isle aux Coudres to fetch Messieur Compain, who would be

Tht RicliclicH lib" Ontario A^ar/'i^a/ion i'oiiif^aiiy

wailing for tlicm to wrap his body in its shroud. At the first stroke
of nii(hiight, the little band was startled !>> Ihc tolling of the bell,
and on rusliing to the church thc-y found the priest dead before the
altar. With dawn came a violeni slonr but faithful to their
promise, lliey set out for the Isle aux Coucivt?,, where, as foretold,
Father Compain was waiting, breviary in hand, having been warned
in a vision, and l)y the tolling of the bell of his own chapel. I<"or
years after, the Indians, going up and down the vSaguenay never
pas.sed Tadousac without pra>!ng in the church where reposed the
body of him who had been to them the image of theii Heavenly
Father. Prostrating them.selves on his tomb, and placing their
mouths at a little orifice made in the floor of the choir, they talked
to him, as in life, in perfect confidence. The ingenuousness and
simplicity of the faith of these swarthy Montagnais, is a touching
monument to i'ere La Krosse. The relics of Pere La Hrosse, who.se
memory is revered to this day, were removed many years ago to the
church at Chicoutimi.

All along this route a series of wild and rugged grantleur is
presented to view, ibrming a fitting prelude to the splein^or of the
Saguenay.

Murray Bay is now reached, a favourite watering-place of the

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CAPES TRINITY AND ETP:RNITV. SAGUENAY RIVKR.

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23 WEST MAIN .STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14380

(716) 872-4503

■■

From Niagara to the Sea.

Lower St. I,awrence. ''.'he village is picturesquely situated amid
frowning hills and wild scenery ; it is a favourite summer resort for
the fashionable world, the comfortable hotels, well-furnished and
well-arranged boarding-houses, and numerous cottages which are
rented to visitors giving a varied choice of accommodation. Here
also is a valuable mineral spring, whose waters are highly recom-
mended to invalids ; it possesses also good sea-bathing and fine,
bracing air. It is renowned as a sporting place, both for atiglers
and field sports, surrounded by numerous lakes, all well stocked

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with the reputed trout usually supplied on board the Company's
Saguenay steamers. Some miles below Murray Bay, the Pilgrims
are seen. They consist of a remarkable group of rocks, which, from
their height, are visible at a great distance, the " mirage" seeming
constantly to dwell about them, due to refraction of the sun's rays,
owing to the rocks being sparsely covered with vegetation.

Steaming across the river, it is evening when we reach that
beautiful summer resort. Riviere du Loup, five miles from the famed
watering-place, Cacouna, the Newport of Canada. Across the
river, twenty odd miles, we steer towards the town of Tadousac, at
the mouth of the Saguenay. Tadousac was the first settlement

The Richelieu of Ontario N^avigatio)i Company. 93

mr.de by the French on the St. Lawrence. It wa.s their principal
fur-trading po.st, and the large revenues from this trade were a
prolific source of contention during most of the time in which the
kings of France held sway in Canada.

As the fur bearing animals, however, disappeared, so did the
commercial and political glory of Tadousac, and now, a quiet
hamlet, still glorious in its .surroundings, is what is left of the
former active life of this historic spot.

There is a very comfortable Hotel here, owned and kept by the

*3',l.'-!

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CHICOUTIMI, SHOWING STE. ANNE, SACiUENAY RIVER.

ri.

Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, which is well patron-
ized. The atmosphere, at this locality, is especially bracing ; the
salt air from the gulf of St. Lawrence and the breezes from the
Saguenay hills meet here, and probably at no place in North
America can the denizens, from heated localities, find greater relief
or lay in z. larger amount of health than at Tadousac. We are here
given time to walk over and visit the village, including the little
church, the first ever built in Canada, and at half-past eight we
return to the steamer and she prepares to face the mysteries of the
world- famed Saguenay.

On leaving the wharf, we slowly round a cape and enter a scene

From Niagara to the Sea.

which pen has never yet described. No one can realize this picture
all at once ; everything is deceptive, and it takes time to grasp the
magnitude of the surroundings. But by degrees the immensity and
appalling grandeur assert themselves, and the beholder feels and
knows that he is in close communion with the awful majesty of
Nature. Here, above all other places the grandest works of man
sink into insignificance, and the very silence seems to do homage as
to a god. Calm and unbroken is the solitude of Nature in this her
temple. Mirth and laughter may ripple over the waters, but she
heeds them not. Storms and tempests may rage around, and the
sun's fierce rays descend upon her brow seeking to disturb her
serenity ; but in vain. Victorious in some elemental conflict she
ceases from her labours. Peace, inviolate, is the guerdon of her
warfare, and the loneliness of her grandeur the highest monument
of her triumph.

Thus are we made to feel as we enter the seclusion of these
waters. As our vessel moves onward, at every turn some new and
unexpected beauty meets the eye, distinct, bearing the stamp of indi-
viduality, and yet, in some mysterious manner, inseparable from the
whole. There are, however, no rivals among those gorgeous scenes.
Projecting rock and sheltered cove, fir-crowned cliff and open bay.
each to the other lends a charm, and each reiterates the same grand
theme. Even the silent bosom of the waters contributes its meed of
praise, for in their unfathomable depths are mirrored the heights
which soar into the infinite.

Who can picture this scene by moonlight ? Vision is replaced
by feeling. Yonder in the distance a silvery beam of light seems to
have lost is way among these frowning sentinels and to tremble in
their keeping. On we glide through its fairy-like shadows into
darkness again, and the rocks appear to bar our progress. But no ;
still we move, and wonder only succeeds wonder.

But let us change the scene to daylight, in the golden glory of
a summer's day. As the vessel moves onward, the multiform rocks,
the bays and projections, the perpendicular walls, slanting sides and
overhanging cliffs, all change with the rapidity of a kaleidoscopic
view. But there is no monotony, only unceasing loveliness. From
the summit of these rocks crowned with sunshine, to the depths of
the transparent waters, z\\ is beauty and deep and lasting peace.
The scene grows upon you hour by hour until you seem to form a
part, and share in this wondrous manifestation of Nature. The

■Id

*■, Is

i-1

OIIATCHOIAN FALLS.

I'rom Nicxgara to the Sea.

■i:Ji

THE RISE.

shades contrasted with the sunlight, form beautiful combinations,
but when the shadow of Cape Kternity falls upon the surrounding
slopes as if the sun had withdrawn its light, while high above we can

see its glittering
crown, a picture is
formed which no
words can paint,
for no scene will
ever replace that
formed under the
shadows of Cape
Eternity.

But our journey
is not yet ended.
On we pass, sur-
rounded by Nature
in her wildest
moods, until we reach once more the scenes of civilization. The
sight of the beautiful open water known as Ha Ha Bay comes as
a relief after the majesty we have left behind us. The bay was
named, so the story runs, from the surprised laugh of the earliest
French explorers, who, sailing as they thought straight up the
river, found themselves in this huge cul-de-sac. A scattered,
picturesque village decks the shore, and the tourist will meet
with an interesting type of Canadian character in the villagers.
A short drive through a romantic country, enjoying the breeze
of the pine- clad hills, or a sail in the steamer round the bend of
the river will bring us to Chicoutimi.

Beautifully si-
tuated on a hill,
Chicoutimi seems
to form a little
world of its own.
Its name appears
to be singularly
appropriate, mean-
ing in Cree, "Up
to here it is deep."
Chicoutimi was
one of the earliest

THE STRIKE.

The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Companv.

THE STRUGGLE.

Jesuit missions, and a great fur-trading centre, becoming afterwards
one of the principal posts of the Hudson's Bay Co., and it could
boast of a church as early as 1670. But other thoughts claim our

attention, we are
near the famous
hunting and fish-
ing grounds of the
Saguenay region.
Tourists who wish
to reach the para-
dise of wild wood
sport in the vicinity
of Lake St. John,
may take their pas-
sage at Chicoutimi
via the Quebec and
Lake St. John Rail-
way, as the Richelieu steamers connect with the trains on this line.
The beautiful and fertile region of the Lake continues to attract
sportsmen to its shores. Here are the homes and haunts of the land-
locked salmon, rejoicing in the euphonious Indian name of Ouan-an-
ische, and may well be described as a mailed warrior of surpassing
courage and determination when he takes the hook. Dear to the
true hunter, he is not only a good fighter in the water, but a
delicately delicious guest at the table.

Good fishing is to be had anywhere on the rivers and lakes of
the gloriously diversified region around Lake St. John. And there
large game — deer, bear, moose and the wapiti — are to be found in
season with cap-
able and compa-
nionable guides to
lead the hunter
to their native
fastnesses. No-
where in the world
will the sportsman
and the lover of the
grand and beauti-
ful in nature find
better rewards for

, ■ v
i *

j.
I

p.-

THE VICTORY.

From Niagara to the Sea.

his toil. Many American, as well as Canadian, fishing clubs have
leases, or own lakes among these hills. But there is room for thou-
sands more ; the country is so vast and its lakes and rivers simply
inexhaustible. There are good hotels and every accommodation to
be had in the villages around Lake St. John. Guides and canoes
are available there for sportsmen, and an elegant steel steamer, the
" Mistassini," having a capacity for 400 passengers, runs daily
between Roberval and the fishing grounds on the other side of Lake
St. John.

It is time, however, to return to our steamer. Leaving Chicou-
timi behind, we pass again through the magnificent scenery which
is still further impressed on our memory. Rapidly we glide by the
long procession of headland, rock and hill, the scattered hamlets, the
silver threads of cascades here and there trickling down dark
precipices, until towards evening we approach the rocky nooks
of Tadousac. We can just distinguish in the starlight the massive
wooden pier and the lofty pines above us. In a short time we
are fairly out of the Saguenay and enter the wide expanse of the
St. Lawrence.

In the morning we find ourselves again in Quebec, with a
whole day before us, which will afford ample time to visit the pictures-
que suburbs of Quebec. A point of particular interest within pleasant
driving distance is the site of the old hunting lodge of the Intendant
Bigot, beyond the village of Charlebourg. All that now remain of
the building known as Chateau Bigot are its weather-beaten walls,
in an open glade beside a stream, with a few bushes which indicate
the presence of a garden. Here the wicked intendant was wont to
hold his carousals with his boon companions of the hunt, after the
fashion pictured in Le Chien d'Or. The building has its legend of
a buried hoard of silver, and of a beautiful Huron girl, who loved
Bigot, and died a violent death.

Another very enjoyable trip, through open and fertile country,
may be made to the Indian village of Lorette, inhabi.ed by a
remnant of the Huron tribe, and where the last traces of this primi-
tive race are to be found. In the house of one of the chiefs is
preserved a portrait bestowed by royal hands on a former chief.

A charming drive, nine miles below Quebec, leads to the Falls
of Montmorency. ^-f-

The old, long, quairt village of Beauport, where may still be
seen the remnants of Montcalm's forts — and in the centre of which

5-V

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IP"

lOO

From Niagara la the Sea.

is the famous asylum — stretches nearly the whole distance. Like a
huge pre-historic monster, it lies along the shore of the river, its
head resting upon the bridge over the St. Charles and its tail lashing
into foam the wonderful Falls of Montmorency. It would be impos-
.sible to give an accurate description of the beauty, the majesty, the
thundering might of those falls, either in winter or in summer. Down

a precipice of over
two hundred feet,
the Montmorency
River plunges into
the St. Lawrence,
and, as if recoiling
after its terrible fall ,
it bends back \\\
spray, that, when
frozen, leaves a
cone fifty feet high,
in winter, b etween
the torrent behind
and the sheet of ice
in front.

We must not for-
get to visit the
Island of Orleans,
the summer resi-
dence of so many
Quebeckers. It is
a charming sail
down stream dur-
ing which we get a panoramic view of Quebec, Beauport and
the Montmorency Falls, on one side, and Levis on the
other.

I An enjoyable day may be spent visiting either of the places
mentioned, while those who prefer to remain in the city will find
'many new and interesting features.

In the evening the steamer leaves for Montreal, and as the last
trace of Quebec fades from view, we begin to prepare ourselves for
the interesting scenes we are to visit on the morrow. A glance over
the following pages will enable the tourist to become familiar with
the city of the Royal Mount.

POST OFFICE, MONTREAL.

The Richelieu &" Ofitario Navii^ation Coffi/xniy

lOI

MONTREAL.

Montreal is happily typical of Canada, for, besides being the
commercial metropolis of the Dominion, from its position at the head
of ocean navigation, it still retains in its streets and in its
inhabitants, many traces of French and iMiglish occu-
pation. Here the Old World mingles with the New, and the rapid
strides of progress seem only to make the contrast more apparent.
It is not only to the Canadian tourist that Montreal appeals with
special interest ; visitors from the sister country will find amid its
memorials much which speaks to them of their own country, and
many a link that binds them in a friendly bond of union.

The little sketch we propose to give, and the illustrations
accompanying it, will serve to assist in a tour of inspection, and be

,/ M

i I

CUSTOM HOUSE, MONTREAL.

■•<!

I02

From Niai>ara to the St a.

ii^«i'il!!iiWH^''»

worthy of preservation as a souvenir of a visit to the Metropolis
of Canada. The first place we will visit is the Custom House, a
short distance to the west of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation
Company's wharves. Our mission is not to decide any question of
tariff, but to view the cradle of Montreal. Affixed to this building
are two tablets which read as follows : " This site was selected and
named, in i6ii, ' La Place Royale,' by vSamuel de Champlain, the
founder of Canada," and "Near this spot, on the i8th day
of May, 1642, landed the founders of Montreal, commanded by
Paul de Chomedey, sieur de Maisonneuve ; their first proceeding
being a religious service."

The city, it is seen, was founded in 16 12, by Paul de Chomedey,
a knight of the mediaeval school, who was accompanied by a Jesuit,

Father Vimont.
While we are in
the vicinity, it
may be inter-
esting to learn
something of the
ceremony at-
tending the
foundation. As
eve approach-
ed, Maisonneuve
and his follow-
ers assembled at
the place, indic-
ated by yonder
obelisk, where
the first mass was

sung. History has preserved for us part of that early scene in these
words : "Tents were pitched, camp-fires were lighted, evening fell and
mass was held. Fireflies caught and imprisoned in a phial upon the
altar served as lights, and the little band was solemnly addressed by
Vimont in words which included these : ' You are a grain of mustard
seed that shall rise and grow till its branches overshadow the earth.
You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is upon
you, and your children shall fill the land.' " Such, then, were
the beginnings of the city, and the foundation of the educa-
tional and commercial system which in the space of two hundred

:^i',A»':v-.i^i...-

OLD SEMINARY GATE AND CLOCK, MONTREAL.

The Riclu'licu & Ontario Nariiialion Company. 103

>li.s
a
on
of

"g
nd

the

lay

i:!

'%•■

THE DE MAISONNEUVE MONUMENT, PLACE D'ARMES, MONTREAL.

104

From NiaQ;ara to the Sea.
years has . changed the aspect of this vast

^^^

BONBECOURS CHURCH, MONTREAL.

and fift}'
country.

There is, however, an earlier period, which takes us
back into the age of discovery, gathering around the name
of Jacques Cartier, without which no descrip-
tion of Montreal would be complete. In 1535,
Jacques Cartier, shortly after his discovery of
Quebec, sailed up the St. Lawrence in search
of the kingdom of Hochelaga, of which he had
received glowing accounts from the Indians of
Stadacona. On the 2nd of October, the explor-
ing party, consisting of ab' t fifty sailors and
their officers, in a small ga 'on and two long
boats, approached the shores of the mysterious
kingdom. An Indian path led through the
forest to the fortified town or kingdom of
Hochelaga, situated at the base of the moun-
tain. All trace of this village, however, had
disappeared at the time of Champlain's visit,
and its inhabitants had either been massacred or
carried away into captivity during the war after Jacques Cartier's visit.
The history of the war between the Iroquois and Hurons has
boen preserved by a descendant of the latter tribe, from whom v;g
learn that the Hurons and Senecas lived in peace and friendship for
many a generation at the town of Hochelaga. They intermarried
and had no cause for quarrel, till, for some reason, a Seneca chief
refused his son permission to marry a Seneca maiden. Enraged at
the action of the stern parent, the lad}^ refused all offers of marriage,
declaring that she would only wed the warrior who should slay
the chief who had interfered with her happiness. A young
Wyandote, smitten by her charms, attacked and slew
the old 'chief, and received the coveted reward. The
Senecas, however, adopted the cause of their chief, and
a terrible fratricidal war spread desolation through-
out the Huron country, nor did it cease
until the Iroquois had completely broken
ar d almost exterminated the Hurons. The
story of the heroine has been compared to
that of Helen, and the fate of Hochelaga
to the scige of Troy.

A FRENCH CANADIAN HABITANT.

Tlw Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company

105

ast

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P5.
of

l-ch

lor-

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of
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ad
Mt,
or
dt.
las
we
for
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ief
at

'i^

TANT.

While in this vicinity, Bonsecours Church and Bonsecours
Market claim our attention. The Church of Notre-Dame-de-Bonse-
cours, from which the adjoining market derives its name, is, to the
antiquarian, of the deepest interest. Its foundation dates from 1657,
only fifteen years after the foundation ot the city, when de Maison-
neuve donated a piece of land on which to build a chapel. The
first building measured thirty by forty feet, but it was soon found to
be too small, and in 1675 a larger church was commenced which
stood until its destruction by fire in 1754. The present church was
commenced soon after, but not completed until 1771. There are

VICTORIA SUUARE, MONTREAL.

many old paintings in the church to which great value is attached,
but the principal object is the time-honoured statue of the Blessed
Virgin. This was acquired by Sister Mary Bourgeoys, from a noble
of Britany, where it was reputed for miracles. She, in consequence,
brought it over, built the chapel for it, and set it up where it now
stands, and where it has remained the patron of the French sailors
for nearly two centuries and a half. Bonsecours Market is specially
wortliy of a visit on one of its market days. Here an illustration
of the provincial life of the habitant may be obtained. To the
observer of human nature, the habitant and his methods of doing
business will furnish an interesting study. In the midst of the

1 1

■i\A

' t

I,!.

ic;

1 06

From Niagara, to the Sea.

■Jl,^

St, Lawrence, nearly opposite the market, is a favourite resort in
summer, known as St. Helen's Island, named by Champlain after
his wife. The island is laid out as a park and, being thickly
wooded, has many shady walks. Within an enclo-
sure containing a fort is a space reserved for military
purposes. The island is reached by the boats of the
Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company.

To enable the tourist to take in at a glance the
magnificence of the city's situation, we propose to
drive to the Mountain Park. Ascending the moun-
tain by a series of winding roads, a glimpse is obtain-
ed here and there through the foliage of the pano-
rama spread out below ; but it is not till the summit
is reached that an idea of the vastness of the scene
is realized. It was from this point that Jacques
Cartier viewed the fertile country he had come to
claim for France, when, uplifting the cross, he gave
to it the name of Mount Royal.
"Therefrom one sees very far," he wrote, and his words are
re-echoed to-day. On one side stretches out the city with its spires
and domes, glittering in the sun, the palatial homes of the wealthy,
the meaner dwellings of the poor ; broad avenues and parks and
tokens of industry, and beyond Nature's watery highway lined
with docks and shipping, the prosperous towns and villages which
rise from its southern shore. And turning, through the shadow of
the trees, may be seen the beautiful and silent city of the dead.

It may be observed that with the rise of commerce the city has
crept nearer and nearer to the foot of the mountain. For fifty years
after its foundation, the limits of the town were strictly confined
within fortified walls, 01 account ofthe frequent attacks
of the Indians, but as Jiey were subdued or civilized,
suburbs sprang up outside of theseboundaries.
We may trace the recognition of Mon-
treal as a commercial centre as being largely
due to the operations of the North West Company.
This association of wealthy French-Canadian and
Scottish merchants made their headquarters in the
town, while developing the fur trade in the far west,
and their activity and enterprise did much to build
up the commercial fabric of Canada.

in
er

ry
he

he
to
n-
n-

Thc Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company. 107

The advantageous position thus obtained has become perma-
nent, for, backed by the great lake and canal systems which connect
it with Chicago, Duluth, and "other cities, its influence pierces far
into the interior, and the Canadian Pacific Railroad, with head-
quarters in Montreal, brings the commerce of India and China across
the continent. In the year 1672, the population of Montreal was
1520, and an idea of the progress made in fifty years may be gleaned
from the fact that about this time the village of Laprairie, on the
southern shore, wr.s founded by a band of Christian Iroquois. A

MOUNT ROYAL PARK DRIVH, MONTREAL.

hundred years later, in 1770, we find the following description :
' ' Montreal is situated on an island of that name, the second place in
Canada for extent, buildings, and strength. The streets are regular,
forming an oblong square, and the houses are well built. The city
has six or seven gates, large and small, but its fortifications are
mean and inconsiderable. The inhabitants, about five thousand,
are gay and lively, and more attached to dress and finery than those
of Quebec, and, from the number of silk sacks, laced coats, and
powdered heads that are constantly seen in the streets, a stranger
would imagine that Montreal was wholly inhabited by people of

1 08

From Niagara to the Sea.

NEW BOARD OF TRADE BUILDING, MONTREAL.

independent fortunes." As the present population is about three
hundred thousand, considerable progress is manifest since 1770.
For a long time
Commissioners
street, on the
water front, was
the great busi-
ness thorough-
fare ; then St.
Paul street dof-
fed its private
character and as-
sumed a com-
mercial aspect. Later on business found its way into Notre-Dame .
street and thence into St. James street, but here its limitations were
marked for many years. At this time Craig street was an open
ditch, that surrounded the old fortifications of the city. This, in
time, was filled up and transformed into a broad avenue, and then
trade still crept further north. Within the past few years, St, Cathe-
rine street, so long devoted to private residences, has become the
centre of great activity, and dwellings are constantly being con-
verted into stores. Important improvements have been completed
by the municipal authorities within the past ten years that contri-
bute to the beauty and facilities of the city. Nearly all the streets

have been paved, and several of
the leading thoroughfares have been
widened. There has also been a
notable increase of buildings erected
by corporations and business firms.
Among these may be mentioned the
stations of the Grand Trunk and the
Canadian Pacific Railways, both of
which were comparatively insigni-
ficant buildings until within this
period. On St. James street in par-
ticular, several handsome structures
have been completed, including the
lofty building of the New York Life
Insurance Company, at the corner
of Place d' Amies ; the Temple

I1\NK OF TORONTO BUILDING, MONTREAL.

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The Richelieu cf Ontario Navigation Conip.iny. 109

Building, on the site of St. James Methodist Church ; the Canadn
Life Insurance Company's building, at the corner of St. Peter street,
and the Bank of Toronto, at the corner of McGill .street, wherein
the consul for the United States has his offices ; while the Imperial
Building, the Mechanics' Institute, and the City and Districi
Savings Bank buildings have undergone extensive alterations. On
Notre Dame street, the Sun Life Insurance Company's offices, and
the Balmoral Hotel have been added to the list of large buildings,
while on St. Catherine street, the most important structures erected
within this period are St. James Methodist Church, Morgan's dr>-

BONAVENTURE DEI'OT, G. T. R., MONTREAL.

goods Store, Henry Birks &. Sons' Building, and Murphy's Building.
The Montreal Street Railway, on the corner of Craig street and
Place d' Armes hill, have also a fine office building. A corresponding
activity has been noticeable in the erection of private dwellings, and
many stately homes which have been completed within the past few
years, are proof of the prosperity of the city.

Descending the mountain road, we pass under the elevator on
the eastern slope, and gaining the main road, leave the Exhibition
Grounds on the left, and the links of the Montreal Golf Club. The
large stone building facing us, with its prominent dome, is the
Hotel-Dieu St.-Joseph-de-Ville-Marie. It was fir.st founded over

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McGill University.

two hundred and fifty years ago, by the Duchess de Buillion, and
much of the early history of Montreal is bound up with it. Turning
into Pine avenue, we have a good view of the handsome buildings
of Victoria Hospital, the joint gift of Sir Donald A. Smith and Lord
Mount-Stephen. It is constructed on the mo.st approved plans,
equipped with all modern appliances, and recognized as one of the
leading hospitals on the continent.

Driving down McTavish street, a good view of the Reservoir is
obtained, and soon the interesting buildings of McGill are seen.

The grounds and buildings of McGill College
occupy a part of the ancient town of Hochelaga.
A tablet on Metcalf street, in front of the western portion, reads
thus: "Site of large Indian village, claimed to be the town of
Hochelaga, visited by Jacques Cartier, 1535." The
university owes its origin to the Hon. James McGill,
who, by his will, dated 8th January, 181 1, devised
the estate of Burnside, consisting of forty-seven
acres of land with the manor house and buildings
thereon erecied, and also bequeathed the sum of
;i^ 1 0,000 to the Royal Institution of Learning
to establish a university to be distinguished by
the appellation of McGill. With the proceeds
of this estate the present institution was com-
menced, and a Royal charter obtained in 182 1,
and re-organized by an amended charter in 1852.
The William Molson Hall, being the west wing of the College buil-
ding, was erected in 1861, by the donation of Mr. William Molson.
The Peter Redpath Museum was donated to the University, in 1880,
by Mr. Redpath. In 1890, Mr. W. C. McDonald gave the McDonald
Physics Building and its equipment to the University, which is one
of the most valuable additions to McGill, and in the same year the
Redpath Library was added as the gift of Mr. Peter Redpath. The
Donalda Building is the gift of Sir Donald A. Smith, as a college
for the higher education of women.

There are also a large number of endowed chairs ; and endow-
ment for pension fund, and a number of exhibitions and scholarships.
There are fifty professorships and thirty lectures on the staff of the
University in the faculties of arts, applied science, medicine, law,
comparative medicine, and veterinary science. The Peter Redpath
Maseum contains large and valuable collections in botony, zoology,

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mineralogy, and geology, arranged in such a manner
as to facilitate work in these departments.

Within a few minutes' drive from McGill on
Sherbrooke street, we reach the substantial buildings
and ample grounds of Montreal
College, under the direction of
the Sulpicians. This is one of
the best classical colleges
in America. In connec-
tion with it is the Grand
Seminary, and recently a
new school of philosophy
has been erected on the
hill near the Botanical
Gardens, to accommo-
date the increasing num-
ber of students. From

this College priests iiave gone forth into almost every diocese of the
United States. Close to the entrance of the new building may be
seen the ruins of capitulation house, which is asserted by tradition
to have been the headquarters of General Amherst when he occupied
the heights on approaching to the siege of Montreal, then a small
town miles away. A tablet also marks it thus : " Tradition asserts
.that the capitulation of Montreal and Canada was signed here, 1760."

From the mountain, and during our drive, we have been able
to form an idea of the extent as well as the aspect of the city. It

THE OLD TOWERS AT MONTREAL
COLLEGE.

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MONTREAL COLLEGE.

The Richeliiu & Ontario Navigation Company.

113

>',

The Laval University.

■Montreal's
Public Buildings

now remains for us to direct attention to the numerous buildings
and institutions that are calculated to prove of interest.

The Laval University is to the French, what McGill is to the
English— their principal seat of lea ning. The chief seat of Laval,

however, is at Quebec. It rose out of the
Seminary of Quebec, founded by Mgr. Laval,
a princely prelate, who endowed the institution with his vast wealth.
The university charter is dated 1852, and therein is given the name
of its founder. The lectures of the faculties in Montreal have
hitherto been delivered in various buildings scattered over the cily,
but recently a new and handsome building has been erected on St.
Denis street.

Amongst Montreal's most interesting buildings is the Chateau de
Ramezay — one of the oldest historical landmarks — associated
with events of the greatest importance in
Canadian history. It was built in 1705 by
Claude de Ramezay, governor of Montreal.
Within its venerable walls, after the fall of Quebec, in 1760,
arrangements were completed for the withdrawal of the last
French garrison from Montreal, by which act the finest colony ,v^\
of France and for which the French had done so much,
became the possession of Britain.

In 1775 the Chateau was again made memorable as
the headquarters of the American Brigadier- General
Wooster, and in the following year, under General Bene-
dict Arnold, the Commissioners of Congress, Benjamin
Franklin, Samuel Chase, and Charles Carroll,
of Carrolton, here held
council. To Benjamin
Franklin Montreal was
indebted for its first prin-
ler-Fleury Mesplet, who
established the Gazette,
which is still in exist-
ence, as one of the lead-
ing papers of the city.

For years after the
British conquest the Chr -
teau was recognized as
the official residence of

.■^/r??-'

CHATEAU DE RAMESAY.

114

Frovi Niaj^ara to the Sea.

ART ASSOCIATION HUILDING, MONTREAL.

ICnglish governors while here. For a time a portion ot the buildin.::
was used as the Circuit Court, but it is now converted into a
museum, in which repo.se
many interesting .souvenirs
associated with the history
of the Province.

A visit to the spacious
vauhs will give an idea of
the stability of the structure,
which could not be obtain-
ed from an exterior view.

To the west of the Cha-
teau is situated the Court
House, recently enlarged to
meet the legal requirements
of Montreal and the District.
Affixed to this building is

a tablet bearing this inscription : " Here stood the church, chapel,
and residence of the Jesuit Fathers. Built 1692, occupied as military
headquarters 1800. Burnt 1803. Charlevoix and Lafitau, among^
others, sojourned here. On the square, in front, four Iroquois suf-
fered death by fire, in reprisal, by order of Frontenac, 1696."

This square was also, during the present century, the site of the
Town Pilory, so that the administration of justice, in various forms,
seems to have been meted out from this spot from the earliest to the
present time. The north side of the Court House overlooks a large
open space, known as Champ de Mars, still used as a military parade
ground. The soldiers of France and the British troops have both

trod this historic
ground.

East of the
Court House is
the City Hall, a
handsome struc-
ture of grey cut
stone. From the
tower a fine view
is to be obtained.
The Natural
History Muse-

ROYAL VICTORIA HOSPITAL. MONTREAL.

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The RiihcliiH & Ontario Navi\^ation Company

115

um, situated on I'liiversity street, is a small, unpretentious build-
ing, but it will undou))tedly prove interestinj; to many of our
visitors. The library is rich in scientific lore, while many priceless
collections are to be found in the museum. The Ferrier collection
of Egytian antiquities is probably the most perfect in America.
The Natural History Society, which publishes the Canadian Record
of Seienec, has its headquarters in this building.

The Art Gallery, located on Phillips vSquare, contains a fine
collection, in which Canadian art is well represented, but frequently
loan exhibitions are held here, when works are on view from the
private galleries of wealthy citizens. Some of the most valuable
pictures in the
world are the
property of Mon-
trealers. The
onlypubliclibra-
ry in Montreal is
the Fraser Insti-
tute, on Dorches-
ter street. The
number of volu-
mes is somewhat
small, though
the selection is
good. In the
French section
there are many
exceedingly va-
luable works.

The Board of Trade, on St. Sacrament street, is probably the
largest public building in the city. It is a fine solid structure of red
stone, six stories in height and well laid out. Many of the large manu-
facturers and corporations have offices in the building. The Board's
exchange hall occupies an area of over four thousand square feet,
while the safety vaults beneath cover an area of three thousand
square feet.

The Post Office, on St. James street, is built in French Renais-
sance style, and has recently been altered to meet the requirements
of the city, but it is still considered too small for the vast amount of
business transacted.

CITY HALL, MONTREAL.

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Placs d'Arm«s.

In this Square, past and present interests are united. On the
north side is tlie Hank of Montreal, one of the wealthiest institutions
on the continent, having a capital of $12,000,000,
and a reserve fund of $6,000,000. The style of its
architecture, of the Corinthian order, forms a pleasing contrast to
the buildings which surround it. The sculpture of the pediment,
repre.senting Canadian scenes, is the work of Mr. Steel, R. S. A.
Some of the frescoes of the interior are considered very fine and
should he seen. The northern boundary of the city, in 1721,

extended as far
as this building,
the stone fortifi-
cations running
through its site.
Facing the
Hank, on the
south side, is the
parish church
of Notre- Dame,
with its two im-
pressive towers,
which rise to a
height of 227
feet. The length
of the church is
255 feet, with a
breadth of 135
feet, and a .seating capacity of 14,000. To see this vast edifice
crowded, as it is on important festivals of the church, such as
midnight masr. at Christmas and similar occasions, is a most impos-
ing spectacle.

A new chapel at the southeast of the church has been recently
consecrated, and is a beautiful specimen of ecclesiastical architecture.
The view obtained from the west tower is a remarkable one ; on a
clear day, in the far distance, may be seen the hills of Vermont.
The great bell, named Gros Bourdon, weighing 24,780 lbs., is also
located in this tower. Many fine specimens of art are to be found in
the church, which is open at all times. Adjoining the church is
the Seminary of St. vSulpice, which is interesting as preserving the
ancient style of architecture of the building of the city. Many

THE HANK OK MONTREAL.

The Riihelu'u &* Oittatio Navij^ation Company

curious vclumes arc to be fouml in tlie lil)rary of the seniinary,
one of special interest being tlie first parish register of the church,
in which the signature of ile Maisonneuve, the foiuuler of Montreal,
frecjuently occurs.

On the eastern corner of the scjuare is a tablet reading thus :
" In 1675, here lived Daniel de Gresolon, .Sieur Dulhut, one of the
explorers of the Upper Mississippi, after whom the city of Duluth
was named."

THE CHIRCH OF NOTRE-DAME, MONTREAL.

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A little further east, is the site of the house of the founder of
another American city, distinguished by a tablet reading : "In
1694, here stood the house of La Mothe Cadillac, the founder of
Detroit."

The whole of the ground in this vicinity possesses a charm for
the antiquarian and historian. The centre of the square, now
adorned by a monument to the founder, was once the scene of a
battle. The event is recalled by an inscription on a building to the
east of the Bank of Montreal : " Near this square, afterwards named

La Place d'Ar-
mes, the found-
ers of Ville Marie
first encountered
the Iroquois,
whom they de-
feated ; Chome-
dey de Maison-
neuve killing the
chief with his
own hands, 30th
March, 1644. "
The monument,
unveiled last
July, illustrates
some of the prin-
cipal events in the founder's career, and also perpetuates the
memory of several of his contemporaries.

On this square, picturesquely situated, are many of the import-
ant buildings of Montreal. The Windsor, one of the best hotels in

Canada, occupies a commanding site at the
corner of Dorchester street. The hotel is thor-
oughly equipped and provides accommodation for seven hundred
guests. A large hall adjoining, with a seating capacity of 1600, is
uiilized as a ball-room and as a hall for private or public receptions.
Both in winter and summer a large amount of business is done, and
in past years, when the winter carnival was held on the square, a
splendid view of the ice palace and other buildings could be obtained
from the windows of the hotel. Facing the southeast corner of the
hotel is the Macdonald memorial, erected to the memory of the late
Hon. Sir John A. Macdonald, Prime Minister of Canada and one of

WINDSOR HOTEL, MONTREAL.

Dominion Square.

of
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The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company

119

.i^fiCi

ST. JAMES CLUB, MONTREAL.

ihe "Fathers of Confederation." The monument was unveiled on
the 6th of June, 1895, by Lord Aberdeen, the present Governor-
General. The bronze
figure, under the canopy,
represents the Premier
in the robes of a Grand
Commander of the Bath,
of which order he was a
member. The canopy is
crowned with a figure of
Canada, encircled by the
nine provinces of the
Dominion, The bas relief
panels are illustrative of
scenes of Canadian in-
dustry. The figures were designed and modelled by Mr. Wade, an
English sculptor.

At the southeast of the square, facing Dorchester avenue, is St.
James' Cathedral, claimed to be the largest church on the Continent.
The foundations were commenced in 1870, and much of the work is
still incomplete. The ground plan of the cathedral is designed in
the form of a cross, 330 feet long and 222 feet wide, after the model
of St. Peter's at Rome.

The dome, which always attracts visitors, is 70 feet in diameter
and rises to a height of 210 feet inside, while the extreme height to
the top of the
cross is 250 feet.
Adjoining the
cathedral on the
south is the pa-
lace of the Ro-
man Catholic
Archbishop of
Montreal.

Facing the
west end of the
cathedral, on
Dorchester street
is the new stone
and brick struc-

ST. JAMES CATHEDRAL, MONTREAL.

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ture of the Y.M.C.A. The appointments of this building are very
complete, and it has a large membership.

Located at the southwest of the square is the massive grey stone
building of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The exterior appearance
would scarcely indicate that it was the terminus of a modern
railroad ; its substantial tower and turrets, with their ancient loop-
holes, suggesting rather the days of feudal might. However, any
such illusion is immediately dispelled on going into the interior,
where the luxurious waiting rooms and admirably arranged offices
point to the highest civilization of the nineteenth century.

At the foot of the hill is the handsome red brick building, the
principal station of the Grand Trunk Railway. The spacious offices

of this company are,
however, located at
Point St. Charles.

Within a few
minutes' drive of
the square, on Dor-
chester street, is a
building always at-
tractive to visitors
---the Grey Nuns'
Hospital. It was
founded in 1747, by
Madame de You-
ville, the widow of
an officer. Many objects of interest are to be seen here, such as the
personal belongings of the foundress. There is also a legendary
interest attached to portions of the grounds. The story of the red
cross, which is to be seen at the corner cf Dorchester street, takes us
back to the days of the rack, for it is said to mark the grave of one
who, after conviction of murder and robbery, was condemned to be
broken alive.

In Montreal, after 250 years, by Mr. Lighthall we find that the
punishment inflicted on this unfortunate individual was as follows :
"He was condemned to torture ordinary and extraordinary, and
then to have his arms, legs, thighs and reins broken, alive, on a
scaffold to be erected in the market-place of the city, then put on a
rack, his face towards the sky, to be left to die."

The daughter of the founder of the State of Vermont, Ethan

GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY OFFICE, MONTREAL.

lie

122

From Niagara U the Sea.

Allen, was a member of the order of the Grej- Nuns, and there is a
pretty legend connected with her and a picture of St. Joseph which
led her to finally adopt the vows of the sisterhood.

Montreal is known far and wide as the city of churches and
there are many others besides those we have already mentioned that
are worthy of inspection.

Christ Church Cathedral, on St. Catherine street, is a fine
specimen of Gothic architecture, and its proportions are very
beautiful.

On Bleury street is the Church of the Gesu, built after the plan

of the Gesu at Rome, from

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a design by Mr. Keeley, of
Brooklyn, N. Y. It was
consecrated on December
3rd, 1865. The edifice is
one hundred and ninety-two
feet in length, and one
hundred and forty-four feet
wide at the transept ; the
height in the centre is sev-
enty-five feet. The towers,
f-'M which will be the principal
external attraction, have
not yet been built. There
is a profusion of altars on
both sides of the church,
and in the niches and cor-
ners. The paintings of the
Gesu are, however, the great
attraction for all visitors.

CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL, MONTREAL.

St. Patrick's Church is one of the finest structures in the city.
It \s par excellence the shrine where the Irish Catholics worship. It
is surrounded by extensive grounds. The church is under the
direction of the members of St. Sulpice, and its aisles have witnessed
some of the most imposing ceremonies ever beheld in Montreal.

On St. Catherine street, immediately east of St. Denis, is the
gem-like Church of Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes. This was built in
1874. It was erected in honor of the Immaculate Conception and of
the apparition of the Blessed Virgin to Bernadetta Soubirous, in the
Grotto of lyourdes, in the Upper Pyrenees,

The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company

123

ST. PATRICK'S CHURCH, MONTREAL.

To the Numismatic and An-
tiquarian Society of Montreal
we are indebted for the numer-
ous tablets, which, with their
inscriptions, indicate places

ancient Buildings, of historic iu-

etc. terest that

would otherwise be lost
sight of.

At the corner of St. Peter
and St. Paul streets a tablet is
affixed to a building, the in-
scription of which reads as fol-
lows : " Here lived Robert
Cavalier, Sieur de la Salle,
1 668. ' ' The name of La Salle
stands out boldly in history,
and reference has been made to
him previously in connection
with the village of Lachine. To Americans and Canadians his
deeds appeal with equal force. Of him the late Francis Parkman,
of Boston, wrote : " Beset by a throng of enemies, he stands, like the
King of Israel, head and shoulders over all. He was a tower of
adamant, against whose impregnable front hardship and danger,
the rage of man and the elements, the southern sun, the northern
blast, fatigue, famine and disease, delays, disappointments and defer-
red hopes, emptied their quivers in vain. The very pride, which,
Cariolanus like, declared
itself most sternly in the
thickest press of foes, has
in it something to chal-
lenge admiration. Never
under the impenetrable
mail of paladin or cru-
sader, beat a heart of
more intrepid mettle,
than within stoic pano-
ply that armed the breast
of La Salle. America
owes him an enduring

ST. JAMES METHODIST CHURCH, MO.MREAL.

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124

From Niagara to the Sea.

memory, for, in his masculine figure, she sees the pioneer who guided
her to her richest heritage." La Salle met with a tragic fate, being
assassinated by two of his followers in Louisiana, in 1687.

Another hoase that will interest visitors from the sister country,
is situated on the southeast corner of St. Peter and Notre-Dame
streets. It is an old-fashioned building, but it was once the most
magnificent dwelling in the city, with grounds extending across
Notre-Dame and St. James streets, and terminating at Craig street.
It was here that the gallant American, General Montgomery, took
up his headquarters in 1775, and it was afterwards occupied by

HOTEL-DIEU, MONTREAL.

Generals Wooster and Arnold, of the United States Army. The
interior decoration appears to have been very elaborate, for we find
this description: "The principal rooms were wainscotted up to a
certain height, and, above that, tapestried richly with scenes from
the life of Louis XIV." A tablet fixed to the building reads:
"Forrester House. Here General Montgomery resided during the
winter of 1775-6."

Another site that appeals to tourists, is located on St. Paul
street, between Place Royale and St. Sulpice street, as being the birth-
place of Pierre LeMoine in 1661. It was he who conquered the Hud-
son's Bay for France, in 1697, and who discovered the mouth of the
Mississippi, in 1699. In 1700 he was elected the first governor of
Louisiana. His brother, who founded New Orleans, in 17 17, and
was afterwards governor of Louisiana for forty years, was born in
this house.

The Richelieu cf Ontario A'ai'ij^atioti Com/id ny

125

De Catalogne House, on vSt. \'incent street, is tneniora])le as the
home of one of the earliest engineers of Montreal. An inscription
on the building reads: "1693. House of Gedeon de Catalogne,
engineer, oflficer and chronicler. Projector of the earliest Lachine
Canal."

" Beside the dark Uttawa's stream, two Iniiulred years aRo,

A wondrous feat of arms was wrought which ill the world should know."

I,;

INTERIOR OK NOTRE-DAiVIE CHURCH, MONTREAL.

Adam Dollard.

In an old French street, oif St. James street, between St. Peter
and McGill streets, known as Dollard Lane, is a tablet reading :
"To Adam Dollard des Ormeaux, who, with sixteen
colonists, four Algonquins, and one Huron, sacrificed
their lives at the Long Sault of the Ottawa, 21st May, 1660, and
saved the colony. ' '

The story of the heroism of Dollard has been told over and over
again in prose and verse, and is familiar to a large number of
Americans thereby. A few remarks, however, at this period may
prove interesting. At the time that Dollard appears upon the scene,
the garrison of Montreal, or Ville Marie, was held in a state of
terror by the threatened invasion of the Iroquois, who had vowed to
exterminate the French from the face of the earth and carry off the

126

From A'iaqara to I he Sea.

K ■

nuns to their villages. Adam Bollard, a young man lately arrived
from France, had conceived the purpose of ascending the Ottawa to
an advantageous post and surprising the Iroquois, and then inflicting

such puishment upon
them as would relieve
the garrison of the
strain which was para-
lyzing it. Bollard and
his followers, in all
about sixty-three,
after having attended
mass at the parish
church, set forth on
their encounter,
marching by night
until they reached the
foot of the Long Sault
of the Ottawa. Scar-
cely had they taken up
a position when a band
bf the enemy, number-
ing two hundred, was
seen descending the
rapids in canoes. Bol-
lard and his men then
fortified themselves in
an old Algonquin fort
and successfully repulsed the enemy. The next day the forces of the
Iroquois were strengthened by five hundred Mohawks, and fighting
was kept up under these condition day and night for a space of ten
days. The French were now suffering the pangs of thirst, and thirty
of them, on the promise of life, leapt over the palisade and joined the
enemy. Bollard was now left with only twenty-two followers, and,
seeing the weakness of his position, the Iroquois sent demanding
the surrender of the fort, but their message was answered with fire.
This increased the ferocity of the Indians, and with a determined
savage onslaught, they rushed over the bodies of their slain and
caled the palisade. Amidst a scene of the wildest confusion, the in-
furiated Iroquois engaged in a hand to hand encounter, and of the
twenty-two who remained faithful to Bollard, only one, a Huron,

ELEVATOR ON THE EASTERN SLOPE OF MOUNT ROYAL.

The Richelieu C~ Oiilaiio Naviiralion Cotupany

127

d
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In

ages
that

escaped and reached Montreal. The
accounts that he brought to the priests
of the vSeminary is to be found
in the register, which may be
seen in the library before refer-
red to. After the capture of
Ml the fort those who were not
-::=-. ..^.-^,_ _ •- ' dead were eaten by the sav-

, The bravery of those twenty-two heroes so awed the Iroquois
they abandoned the project of a combined attack on Montreal.

" What tho' beside the foainiiiK flood enloinbed their ashes lie,
All earth becomes the iiionumciit of men who noblv die."

With a brief sketch of the sports of Montreal we must close our
sketch of the city.

Montreal is famous for its athletic clubs. The largest body of
athletes is the Montreal Amateur Athletic Association, whose
magnificent grounds are situated on St. Catherine street west, on
the direct line of the cars. The national game is lacrosse, which is
carried to greater perfection here than elsewhere. The Shamrock
Lacrosse Club have recently opened up their beautiful grounds in
the north of the city. The athletic club house, behind the moun-
tain, is the winter resort of the snowshoers, who tramp over the
snow-clad fields and mountain roads by night, to the astonishment
of those unaccustomed to the severity of a Canadian winter. The
Montreal Hunt Club have a fine pack of hounds, which may be
seen at the ken-
nels. As the win- ^^ ' "' Wf

ter is the season
for sports, when
the skating rinks
and curling clubs
are in full swing,
very little idea
can be obtained
at the present of
the extent or of
the enthusiasm
with which the
various sports
are indulged in.

° MONKt.ANDS, VILLA MARIA CONVENT

(KORMER residence of the CiOVERNOR-(;ENERAL.)

128

/•'roin A^/ai>ara to I he Sea.

:M..

OTTAWA.

The trip that we proposed is now an accomplished fact, and
wherever our homes, it may be conveniently reached from Montreal.
The beauty of the scenes through which we have
passed may tempt visitors to penetrate further into the
interior. To those who have leisure at their disposal, we would
suggest a visit to the capital of the Dominion, the city of Ottawa.
The capital is beautifully situated on the banks of the Ottawa River,
and may be reached from Montreal by the Canada Atlantic and
Canadian Pacific railways, both modern and well-equipped lines,
or if preferable by the boats of the Ottawa River Navigation Com-

RiDEAu CANAL, OTTAWA, (from au old eugraviug.)

pany. By rail or water the scenery obtainable during the journej'
is pleasing. Ottawa is the centre of the great lumbering interests
of the Dominion, where one may watch the huge logs as they are
deftly drawn out of the water and converted in a few minutes into
saleable lumber, ready for the markets of America and Europe.

Visitors may also experience the novelty of the descending the
slides, whereby the hardships of the lumbermen's life, for a few
exciting moments becomes the attractive sport of venturesome
.seekers of strange thrills.

The descent of the slides is a feature so peculiar to the city,
that all her illustrious visitors have been introduced to its charms, as
a matter of course, and have thereby been initiated into the craft of
the raftsmen. A part of the various scenes connected with the lum-

H
O

O
»

u
o

-t;

H-t

o
(14

i I

( '!

; \

I30

From Niai>ara to the Sea.

'»

W-

^.f

bering industry, the principal feature of the city is the Parliament
and Departmental buildings. The first stone of these handsome
buildings, which cover an area of over four acres, was laid by the
Prince of Wales in i860.

The buildings form three sides of a huge square, which is laid
down in grass, beautifully kept, whose fresh green surface, crossed
by broad paths, stands above the level of Wellington street, from
which it is separated by a handsome railing.

Rising above this square, on a stone terrace, the central block,
with a massive tovvfcr 220 feet high in the centre, faces the square.
This building contains the two Chambers : one for the Senate and
the other for the Commons. Behind the Chambers is situated the

Parliamenta-
ry Library, a
building of
exceptional
architectural
grace. It is fit-
ted with every
conveniences,
and is admir-
ably arranged
for reading
purposes. The 'collection of the Library is exceedingly valuable.
Running entirely round the three blocks of the Parliament
buildings is a broad drive, and at the sides and in the rear of the
Library, the grounds are laid out in well-planted beds, with great
stretches of green lawn overlooking the cliffs. From here a com-
manding view is obtained of the Ottawa River. The drives in the
vicinity of Ottawa are charming. About two miles from the city is
Rideau Hall, the residence of the Governor-General.

The city is up to date in every way, it has an excellent electric
railway system and several first-class hotels.

Before saying aji revoir to the tourist we wish to draw his atten-
tion to the hotels, railways and supply houses who are advertisers
in this book. None but first-class houses have been accepted for
these pages, and travellers can depend on the reliability of the firms
whom we recommend. An index of these houses will be found on
pages 137 and 138, and will serve as a guide to tourists wishing to
select a hotel or to make purchases.

The Richelieu & Ontario Navii^ation Company.

TOURIST RATES.

131

Trom NIAGARA I'ALLS To Sinci.e. Rk

Torotito . !f'-5o

KiuKslon ^'^^

Clavton ^-^^

Alexandria Bay " ^'>

Montreal "•^•'^

(Juebec '4-25

Murray Bay '2J''^

Riviere du Loup '"-"S

Tadousac '7.25

Chicoutimi, Ha Ha Hay, Saguenay River i«.25

Roberval, (boat to Chicoulinii, thence rail)

Roberval, (up rail, down boat)

From TORONTO TO

Kingston S-""

Clavton, Alexandria Bay 5-"o

Montreal '"""

Abeiiakis Springs ^^^^

Ouebec -l

Murrav BaA-, Riviere du Loup '>4<»

Ta.lousac ; , '6.«)

Chicoutimi, Ha Ha Bay, Saguenay River ^1-'^

Roberval, (boat to Chicoutimi, thence rail)

Roberval, (up rail, down boat) ," «;>•,,• ' :;

Gaspe, Que., R. & O., to Quebec, thence Quebec bb. Co. . . 22.50

Perce, Que., «jo • • • • 23- S''

Sumn-erside, V. E. I., do .... 27., -,0

Charlottetown, P. K. L, do 29.00

Pictou, N. vS., do .... 29.50

Boston, R. & O. to Montreal, thence rail . . ... . ■ • .• '9'>'

R. & O. to Quebec and return to Montreal, thence rail 24. (x)

P. cS: O. to Quebec, thence rail 24.00

New York, R. ik O. to Montreal, thence rail 20.00

R.& O. to Clayton, thence rail U-S^'

R. & O. to Montreal, thence via Lakes Champlain

and George, and rail 21.50

R. & O. to Montreal, thence c7(? Adirondacks . 20.00
R & O to Quebec and return to Montreal, thence

rail 25.00

R. & O. to Quebec, thence rail 25.00

EAST.

From MONTREAL To Single.

Abenakis Springs • ^

Quebec , " 1 ' x

(going Saturdav, returning vSunday)

Murray Bay, Riviere dii Loup [or Cacouna] 5-4<^

Tadousac "^

Saguenay ■ '■

Roberval, (boat to Chicoutimi, thence rail)

Roberval, (up rail, down boat) _,

Cacouna, (boat to Levis, thence L C. R. ) >^

Little Metis, do 7-4 >

i^ITTdditioual charge of $3.'>' will be made for passengers returuiug by
Moutreal, Kiugstou or intermediate points.

TURN.

$2.25

lO-.VS

11.75
12.50
ig.tx)

24. (K)
2S.()0
2'<.(X)
29. IX)
32.00

34-70
34.CXI

S.50

9.(X)
1 6. 70

*I7.(X3

21,70

"24. CXI

*25.oo

*2S.CX)

^30.70

*30.(K)

'37-95
39-65
46.45
49.00

49-85
32.20

34-95

RETURN.

$2. 00

5.00

3.00

9. CO

10.00

13.00

15.00

15-70

9.20

11.60

rail from

132

From Niagara to the Sea.

iliiKi

'■ )

•t.

TOURIST RATHS-Coutinued.

KAST.

From MONTREAL to single, return.

Metapedia, (boat to L^vis, thence I. C. R. ) 925 14.40

Dalhousie, do 9.75 15.10

Moncton, do |i3-oo I21.00

Pointe du Chene, (optional, rail or boat between Levis and

Riviere du Loup) 20.90

Pointe du Chene, (boat to Ldvis, thence L C. R. ) 1300 21.50

St. John, (boat to L^vis, thence L C. R. ) 1300 21.00

Halifax, (boat to L^vis, thence L C. R. ) 15.00 25.00

Pictou, boat to L^vis, thence L C. R 15.00 25.00

Sydney, do iS.oo 27.50

Carleton, boat to Ldvis, L C. R. to Dalhousie, thence North

Anier. Trans. Co., 10.50 16.60

New Richmond, do . . 11.00 17.60

New Carlisle, do . . 12.00 19.60

Paspebiac, do . . 12.25 20.10

Grand River, do . . 12.75 21.10

Perce, do . . 13.00 21.J0

Gaspe, do . . 13.25 21.10

Bostc/U, boat to Quebec, thence rail 14.00

New York, do do 15 00 . .

WEST.

Alexandria Bay, and Thousand Island Points 4.00 6.50

Kingston 4.00 8.50

Toronto . . 8.00 16.70

New York, N. Y., R. & O. to Clayton, thence rail 13.50 . .

Niagara Falls, N. Y. :

Steamer to Toronto, Niagara Nav. Co. to Lewiston,

thence N. Y. C. & H.R. R 19.00

or steamer to Toronto, Niagara Nav. Co. to Queenston,

thence Niagara Falls Park and River Ry 19.00

or steamer to Toronto, "Empress of India " to Port

Dalhousie, thence G. T. R., N. Y. C. & H. R. R. . . 19.00

Buffalo : Steamer to Toronto, thence all routes vid Lewiston,

or Queenston, or Port Dalhousie . . 19.90

Cleveland : Steamer to Toronto, thence aP routes I'id Lewis-
ton, or Queenston, or Port Dalhousie 18. 85 24.60

EAST.

From QUEBEC to Single. Return.

Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup I2.50 I4.00

Tadousac 3.00 5.00

Chicoutimi 4.00 8.00

■Roberval, (boat to Chicoutimi, thence rail) 10.70

" (up rail, down boat) . . 10.00

WEST,

Abenakis Springs . . 4.50

Montreal 3.00 5.00

Alexandria Bay, and Thousand Island Points 7.00 13.50

Kingston 7,00 13.50

Toronto 11.00 21.70

The Richelieu & Ontario Navioation Company. 133

TOURIST RATBS-Contimied.

WEST.
From QUEBEC TO sin,.i.f.. retlrn.

Niagara Falls, N. Y. :

vSteaniei to Toronto, Niagara Nav. Co. to Lewistoii.

thence N. Y. C. & H. R. R I12.45 1:24.00

or steamer to Toronto, Niagara Nav. Co. to Queenston,

thence Niagara Falls P.irk & River Ry 12.45 24.00

or steamer to Toronto, " Empress of India" to Port Dal-

housie, *hence G. T. R., N. Y. C. & H. R. R. . . . 12.45 24.00

Buffalo : Steamer to Toronto, tlience all routes z'id Lewiston,

or Queenston, or Port Dalhousie 15.00 24.00

Cleveland : Steamer to Toronto, thence all routes via Lewis-
ton, or Queenston, or Port Dalhousie 15 85 29.60

Boston, R. & O. to Montreal, thence rail 11.00 iS.oo

New York, R. & O. to Montreal, thence rail 12.00 .23.00

R. & O. to Montreal, thence via Lakes Champlain

and George and rail 13 50

R. & O. to Montreal, thence via Fabyan's, Boston

and rail 16.50 29.00

ABOUT TICKETS, STATEROOMS, ETC.

Rooms reserved on application in person, by mail, or wire.

Comnmnications requesting stateroom reservations should be brief, and
should give the address of the writer, in order to insure proper attention and
acknowledgement.

When it is not possible to assign such staterooms as may be desired, tLe best
room, remaining unassigned on receipt of request, will be allotted.

Half fares charged for children five years of age, and under twelve years-
Children under five years of age will be carried free.

Stop-overs, where allowed, will be granted upon application to Purser.

Passengers are required to exchange their tickets at the Purser's Office,
before obtaining l<eys to stateroom.

STATEROOMS CAN BE SECURED

on application by letter or telegraph to the undersigned Agents, stating clearly
number of berths required, from and to what port and date of starting.

COMPANY'S OFFICES:

J. F. DOI4AN,

z King St., East, Toronto, Out.

THOS. HANliEY, Agent,

Kingston.

I,. H. MY RAND,

Dalhousie St., Quebec, P. Q.

H. FOSTER CHAFFEE, Passenger Agent,

iz8 St. James St., Montreal.

134

Frotn Niagara to the Sea.
CONNECTIONS.

•' jil.

HAMILTON.— With Grand Trunk, and Toronto, Hamilton, and BufTalo Rail-
ways.

TORONTO.— With Niagara Navigation Co., Steamer "Empress of India,"
Hamilton Steamers, and Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Railways.

KINGSTON.— With Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific, through sleepers from

the West (trains run to steamboat dock).
CLAYTON. — With Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Railway, through sleepers,

and with all steamers for the Thousand Lsland hotels.

MONTREAL.— With Canadian Pacific, Grand Trunk, Canada Atlantic, Central
Vermont, Delaware & Hudson, New York Central Railways, for New
York, Boston, White Mountain and Adirondack summer resorts.

QUEBEC— With Intercolonial and Quebec & Lake St. John Railways, and
Quebec Steamship Co.

Express trains from Halifax at 12.20 and St. John at 16.30, Tuesdays and
Fridays, will make connection at Dalhousie following mornings with steamer
for Gaspe.

Passengers for G?sp^ and other Baie des Chaleurs points, from Quebec and
the West, will leave Levis on Tuesdays and Fridays, by express trains, at
14.30 o'clock.

MONTREAL, BAY OF QUINTE AND HAMILTON SERVICE.

In addition to the regular mail line between Toronto and Montreal, steamer
" Hamilton" leaves Hamilton every Monday at 12 noon, and Montreal every
Thursday at 4 p.m., passing through the beautiful scenery of the Bay of Quinte
and Thousand Islands, by day light, and calling at intermediate ports. Tickets
include meals and berths.

Hamilton (rionday) 12 00 noon

Toronto 6.00 p.m.

Darlington 9.30 "

Port Hope 11.00 "

Cobourg 12 00 mid.

Brighton ( T'Mwrfar) 3 00 a.m.

Trenton 6.00 "

Belleville 7.30 "

Northport 9.00 "

Deseronto 9.45 "

Picton 11.30 "

Glenora 12.00 noon

Bath 2.00 p.m.

Kingston 5.00 "

Gananoque f . . . 7.45 "

Brockville .. 11.00 "

Prescott 12.00 mid.

Iroquoi.s (.IVednesday) 3.45 a.m.

Mornsburg ... 500 "

Cornwall 7.00 "

Coteau n 00 "

at nontreal 2.00 p.m.

riontreal (Thursday) 4.00 p.m.

Valleyfield {Friday) i. 00 a.m.

Cornwall . . . . ' 4.00 "

Morri.sburg 9 00 "

Iroquois 11.00 "

Prescott i.oop.m.

Brockville 2.(K) "

Gananoque 600 "

Kingston 10.00 "

Glenora (Saturday) 5.00 a.m.

Picton ' 6 00 "

Deseronto 7.30 "

Northport 8.00 "

Belleville 9.00 "

Trenton 10.30 "

Brighton 12.00 noon

Cobourg 3 00 p.m.

Port Hope 4,00 "

Darlington 6.00 "

Toronto 9.30 "

at Hftinilton (Sunday) 2.00 a.m.

This steamer also runs the rapids.

Return tickets are good for passage on daily mail line going West on pay-
ment of one dollar extra.

Rates of fare are : —

Montreal to Hamilton $ 8.50

Montreal to Hamilton and return 16.00

The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company.

135

TIiVlE=TABLE.

Commencing June ist, steamers will run tri-weekly, and from June 15th
daily (except Sunday) between Toronto and Montreal, on the following time-
table, until about September 14th.

Commencing :Monday, i^tli July, and until further notice, a steamer will
leave Kingston, Clayton, and intermediate ports, every Monday morning,
making a daily steamer through the Islands and Rapids to Montreal, during the
height of the season of pleasure travel.

ROYAL MAIL LINE STEAMERS.

Mis

44
64

70
17S
202
205
208

2l6

241

255
299

329

376

DOWNWARDS.

556

Lv. Toronto daily (Sundays ex-
cepted)

" Darlington (Bowmanville)

" Port Hope

" Col)ourg

" Kingston

" Clayton

" Round Island

" Thousand Island Park . .

" Alexandria Bay

" Brockville

" Prescott

" Cornwall

" Coteau Landing

Ar. at riontreal (go alongside
steamers for Quebec to
transfer passengers and
Baggage)

Lv. riontreal daily (Sundays
excepted)

Ar.at Quebec next morning,
connecting there with
steamer for the Saguenay
River, and at Pointe L6vis
(opposite Quebec) with the
Intercolonial Railway for
all places in the .Maritime
Provinces

2.00 p. 1

S.20 "
6.30 "
7.20 "
5.00 a.i

6.20 "

6.30 '
7.00 "

7-i.S '

•S.45 '

9-3" '

12.45 p.

2.45 '

6.30,

UPWARDS.

6.30 a.m.

Lv. Quebec daily (Sundays ex-
cepted)

Ar. at riontreal next morning.

Lv. riontreal (Canal Ba.sin)
every morningiSundays ex-
cepted)

Lachine(conuectwith noon
train) from Montreal . . .

" Valleyfield

" Coteau Landing (connects
with train leaving Montreal
at 5 p.m.)

" Cornwall

" Dickinson's Landing . . .

" Prescott

" Brockville

" Alexandria Bay

•' Thousand Island Park . .

" Round Island

" Clayton

Ar. Kingston

Lv. Kingston

" Deseronto

" Belleville

" Trenton (Foot Canal) . . .

" Brighton

" Cobourg

" Port Hope

" Darlington (Bowmanvilk/

Ar. Toronto

5 00 p.m.
6.30 a.m.

10.00

1 2.30 p

ni.

6.00

6.40

•

930

2.30 a

7.30

S..^o

10.30

10.40

11.00

' '

11.30

I oop

3.00

' *

e.i.'s

8.00

9-.30

11,00

' '

1.30 a. m

2.10

* '

3-. 30

* '

6 30

SUNDAY SERVICE. —Commencing about May 24th, Steamers leave
Quebec and Montreal at 3 p. m. every Sunday, until September 7th mclusive.

These steamers meet at Three Rivers at 11 p. m. and passengers so desiring
can return to Quebec or Montreal from this point.

Passengers from Montreal can make connection at Sorel with steamer
" Berthier " and return to Montreal about 10.45 p.m.

Parties leaving Three Rivers at i p. m. by steamer " Berthier " can make
connection with down steamer at Sorel and return to Three Rivers by eleveji
o'clock.

SAGUENAY LINE.— Up to June 13th, steamers leave Quebec for the
Saguenay and intermediate ports, on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 8 a. m.

From June i6th to July 14th. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays arid
Saturdays, and from July 13th until further notice, daily (Sundays excepted)
at 8 a. m.

The steamers leave Chicoutimi the day following their departure from
Quebec, at 9.30 a. m.

136

From Niagara, to the Sea.

RATES FOR MEALS AND BERTHS.

, I'.

h -

TORONTO TO MONTREAL.

[Qoing East]

Staterooms $2.00

Breakfast or Supper 0.50

Dinner 0.75

Going West between Montreal and Toronto, Meals and Berths

are included.

MONTREAL AND QUEBEC.

Staterooms, according to location.

Supper or Breakfast I0.50

QUEBEC AND THE SAGUENAY.

Supper or Breakfast $0.50

Dinner 0.75

Staterooms, according to location.

y-*

CHAMBLY LINE.— Steamer " Chambly " leaves Montreal, Tuesdays and
Fridays, at i p. m. Returning Thursdays and Mondays, at 9.30 a. m.

A most fascinating trip can be made on this steamer. Fare going Tuesday,
I4.00, going Friday I5.00, for the round trip, meals and berth incJuded. Or
take G. T. R. train 4 p. m. Saturda}', connecting with steamer at Beloeil at
5 p. ni. Fare, round trip, I4.50.

THREE RIVERS LINE.— Steamer " Berthier " makes the trip to Three
Rivers on the same time-table as the " Chambly." Going Tuesday I4.00, going
Friday I5.00 for the round trip, meals and berth included.

Steamer "Terrebonne" leaves Montreal daily (except Saturdays and
Sundays), at 3.30 p. m., for Boucherville, Varennes and Vercheres. connecting
at Varennes with steamer "Riviere du Loup," for Bout de I'lle, St. Paul
I'Hermite and L'Assomption.

On Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, the steamer "Terrebonne"
goes as far as Contrecoeur.

MUSIC— A Pirst-class Orchestra on Quebec Line all Season.
Write for Musical Programme.

Sparkling, . .
Delicious

. . . DRINK . . .

RADNOR,

Empreaa of
Table Waters.

" A pure natural water, brilliant, pleasantly sparkling, and
delicious to the taste." —The " Lancet," London, Eng.

{■.;

"Art Litho" book paper, in this Guide, specially made by the Canada
Paper Co., Montreal and Toronto.

The Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company.

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS.

137

MONTRKAI. :— ^^<'''••

Avenue House '45

Balmoral Hotel '43

Riendeau Hotel '4^^*

Victoria Hotel '45

Windsor Hotel '4'

Henry Birks & Sons, Jewellers Inside front cover

J. B. & N. Bourassa, Meats '52

Canada Paper Co 136-175

Canadian Rubber Co '4^

John L. Cassidy & Co.. Crockery, etc '46

L. Chaput, Fils & Cie, Wholesale Grocers '76

Desbarats & Co., Engravers and Printers I75

The E. Desbarats Advertising Agency '5i

S. H. & A. S. Ewing, Coffee & vSpice Mills US

Jos. M. Eortier, Cigars '4«

Garth & Co., Dominion Metal Works '47

T. B. Giguere & Co., Butchers '4^

S. Greenshields, Sons & Co, Wholesale Dry Goods 150

Chas. Gurd & Co.. Aerated Waters, &c '41

John Henderson & Co., Furriers Inside back cover

Hudon, Hebert & Co., Wholesale Grocers '49

Laporte, Martin & Co., Wholesale Grocers '46

McCaskill, Dougall & Co., Varnishes ^52

J. McConniff, Ticket Office '59

J. J. Milloy, Tailor .■ '76

Montreal Ice P:xchange ^4^

Murray & Williams, Engineers, &c ^44

Wni. Notman & Son, Photographers '41

Jas. W. Pyke & Co., Metal Merchants '42

Radnor Water Co ^^^

Renaud, King & Patterson, Furniture I5i

Robb Engineering Co '59

Rogers, Robertson & Co., Oils '39

Royal Electric Co ^^9

Wm. Sclater & Co., Ltd., Asbestos, &c Back cover

W. S Walker & Co., Jewellers Inside back cover

J. & R. Weir, Engineers, &c '49

Quebec :—

Chateau Frontenac ^^^

Hotel Victoria ^^3

H. D. Barry, Cigars '^^

Frontenac Steam Laundry ^66

A. Grenier, Grocer, &c '7'

B. Houde & Co., Tobaccos Back cover

<•

'.!•

f
<»>('

I' V

138 From Niagara to the Sea.

QvEunc—Co/itinucd :— page

" Illustrated Quebec " • 156

J. B. Laliberte, Furrier 173

La Roche & Co.*, Druggists 171

G. R. Renfrew & Co., Furriers Inside front cover

V. & B. Sporting Goods Co 170

Whitehead & Turner, Wholesale Grocers 174

Toronto :—

The Rossin House 163

Barton Bros., Fruits, &c 164

A. W. Carrick, Confectioner, &c 162

The J. K. Ellis Co., Jewellers 161

John Goebel, Provisions 152

Parisian Steam Laundry • . . . 164

Poison Iron Works 166

Joseph Rogers, Furrier 1 63

Elias Rogers & Co., Coal and Wood Back cover

Ro.ssin House Grocery 162

Belleville : — Hotel Quinte 156

Cacouna : — Mansion House 156

Hamilton :— Royal Oil Co • 166

Kingston : —

British American Hotel Back cover

Hotel Frontenac Back cover

McKelvey & Birch, Hardware 156

Ottawa :—

"The Gilmour" 169

Grand Union Hotel 169

The Russell House 168

Cole's National Manufacturing Co Back cover

PreSCOTT :—

Daniels' Hotel 154

Prescott Brewing Co 154

J. P. Wiser & Sons, Distillers 153

Tadousac : — Tadousac Hotel 144

Thousand Islands : — The F'rontenac Hotel, Round Island 140

Transportation : —

Canada Atlantic Ry • 169

Delaware & Hudson Canal Co 155

The "James Swift" . . . . Back cover

Michigan Central Ry 160

Muskoka & Georgian Bay Nav. Co 162

New York Central & Hudson River R. R 165

Ottawa River Navigation Co 168

Quebec Central Railway 156

Quebec and Lake St. John Ry 170

Quebec Steamship Co 172

Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Ry 158

Hotels along Connecting Lines : —

Hotel Champlain, Lake Champlain 155

United States Hotel, Saratoga 158

Congress Spring, Saratoga 174