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JOURNAL

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS

IN THE

INTERIOUR OF NORTH AMERICA,

WETVVERN THE 47tH AND 58tFI DEGREES OF NORTn LATITUDE, EXTEND-
ING FROM MONTREAL NEARLY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, A DISTANCE
OF ABOUT 5,000 RULES, INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRIN-
CIPAL OCCURRENCES, DURING A RESIDENCE OF NINETEEN
YEARS, IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.

TO WHICH ARE ADDED,

A CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE FACE OF THE COUNTRY, ITS INHABITANTS,
THEIR MANNERS, CUSTOMS, LAWS, RELIGION, ETC. AND CONSIDERA-
BLE SPECIMENS OF THE TWO LANGUAGES, MOST EXTENSIVELY
SPOKEN ; TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRINCI-
PAL A.NIMALS, TO BE FOUND IN THE FORESTS AND
PRAIRIES OF THIS EXTENSIVE REGION.

ILLUSTRATED BY A MAP OF THE COUNTRY.

BY DANIEL WILLIAMS HARMON.

A I'ARTAEU IN THE MORTII WEST COMPANY.

ANDOVKR :

•RlM'El) UY FLAGG AND^GOULD.

1820.

b 1

DISTRICT OF VERMONT, to wit :

Bb it remembered, that on the second day of August, in the forty fifth
year of the independence of the United States of America, Calvin Harmon
of the said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the rignt
whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit ; — A Journal
of Voyages and Travels in the interiour of North America, between the 47th
and 58th degrees of north latitude, extending from Montreal nearly to the
Pacific Ocean, a distance of about five thousand miles, including an account
of the principal occurrences, during a residence of nineteen years, in differ-
ent parts of the country. To which are added, a concise description of the
face of the country, its inhabitants, their manners, customs, laws, religion,
&c. and considerable specimens of the two ia'nguages, most extensively
spoken ; together with an account of the principal animals, to be found in
the forests and prairies of this extensive region. Illustrated by a Map of
the country. By Daniel Williams Harmon, a partner in the north-west
company. — In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States,
entitled, "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies
of maps, charts, and books, to the aulhours and proprietors of such copies,
during the times therein mentioned."

JESSE GOVE, 5 P'!;^"//'''^'*;
' I trict of yermonl.

PREFACE,

BY THE EDITOR.

Having prepared the following work for the

press, I have a few things to say respecting it,
and the part in regard to it, which I have per-
formed.

The authour of these Voyages and Travels,
had no thought, while in the N. W, Country, of
making publick his Journal. It was commenced
and continued, partly for his own amusement, and
partly to gratify his friends, who, he thought,
would be pleased to be informed, with some par-
ticularity, on his return, how his time had been
employed, during his absence. When he return-
ed to civilized society, he found that curiosity was
awake, in regard to the state of the country which

PIIEFACE.

lie had visited ; and the repeated questions, relat-
ing to this subject, which he was called upon to
answer, together with the suggestions of some
persons, in whose judgment he placed much confi-
dence, that sucii a publication might be useful,
first determined him to commit the following work
to the press.

Had he carried into the wilderness a greater
stock of general information, and expected, on his
retu'*n, to appear in this manner before the publick,
his inquiries would undoubtedly have been more
extensive, and the result of them Avould be more
satisfactory, to men of science. Had literary
men been in the habit of traversing the regions
which he has visited, he would have left it to
them, to give an account of them to the publick.
Havirrg remained nineteen years in the interiour of
North America, without visiting, during that time,
the civilized part of the world, and having, many
times, changed the place of his residence, while
there, he has had an opportunity for taking a
wide survey of the country, and of its inhabitants ;
and if the information which he has collected, he

■I

PREFACE.

Vll

1-
•k

not equal to his opportunities, it is such as no other
existing pubhcation will fully afford.

M^^Kenzie's Voyages give some account of a con-
siderable part of the country which is here de-
scribed. His residence in it, however, was much
shorter than that of the authour of this work, and
his personal acquaintance with the different parts
of it, was much more limited. It is not intended, by
this remark, to detract from the reputation, which
that respectable traveller and his work, have de-
servedly gained. By his toilsome and dangerous
voyage to the North Sea, and by leading the way,
through the Rocky Mountain, to the Pacitic Ocean,
he has richly merited the commendation which he
has received. By comparing the following work
•with that of M^Kenzie, it will appear, that, though
the geographical details are less minute, the coun-
try surveyed, if we except the voyage to the
North Sea, which is wholly out of the sphere of
this publication, is considerably more extensive ;
and the information, in regard to the inhabitants,
is much more particular. Considerable additions
are here made, tc ' '^e existing stock of L,'eographi-
cal information, particularly as it respects the

Vlll

PREFACE.

country beyond the Rocky Mountain. The ba-
sis of the map, here given to the pubhck, is that
of Sir Alexander M^Kenzie, drawn by Arrovvsmith.
That map has received many corrections, and to
it many important additions have been made, by
tlic authour of this work ; so that it is presumed
nqw to be the most correct map of the interiour of
North America, which has ever been pubhshcd.

Literary men have recently taken much inter-
est in comparing the different Indian languages,
spoken on tjiis conilnent, with each other, and
with other languages, particularly with those an-
ciently spoken on the other continent. A very con-
siderable vocabulary of the one w^hich is spoken,
with a little variation of dialect, through the long
tract of country, from a little back of Montreal to
the Rocky Mountain, and one less extensive of the
principal language spoken beyond it, are here giv-
en. Sii' Alexander M^Kenzie has given a voca-
bulary of the first, which will be found, on compari-
son, to be somewhat different from that, which is
contained in this work. Two reasons may be as-
signed for this. In the country about the Atha-
basca Lake, where M^'Kcnzie principally resided.

PREFACE.

the Cree or Knisteneux language is, in some meas-
ure, a mixed dialect ; and it is far less pure, than
that winch is spoken by the inhabitants of the
plains. The words, also, arc spelled by McKen-
zie, much according to the French sound of the
letters, which is frequently calculated to mislead
an English reader. Thus, the name of God, or
the Good Spirit, which M^Kenzie spells Ki-jai-
Manitou, is here spelled Kitch-e-mon-e-too. The
above remark will account, in a great measure, for
this difference : and for that which will be found,
in the spelling of many other words. This is the
native language of the wife of Mr. Harmon, (for
so I may now call her, as they have been regular-
ly married) and great pains have been taken to
make this vocabulary correct, by maliing the nice
distinctions in the sound of the words, as derived
from her repeated pronunciation of them. With
this language he is, also, well acquainted, since it
has been daily spoken in his family, and by him-
self, for many years.

The education of the authour of this ^ork
was not classical ; and had it been more extensive
than it was, a residence for more than half of his

PREFACL.

life, since he has arrived to years of understanding,
in Sf country where the EngHsh language is rarely
spoken, would have poorly qualified him to give
to this publication, a suitable English dress.

The editor undertook the business of prepar-
ing this work for the press, with some reluctance,
arising from the shortness of the time that could
be allowed him for the performance of it, and the
numerous avocations of the gospel ministry, which
would leave but a part of that time at his own com-
mand. For undertaking it at all, in such circum-
stances, his only apology is, that, in the opinion of
the authour, there was no other person, conve-
niently situated for personal intercourse with him,
who would be willing to undertake it, whose cir-
cumstances \?buld be more favourable. It is by
the particular request of the authour, and not be-
cause I suppose that I have performed the office
of an editor, in a manner creditable to myself,
that I have consented to connect my name with
this publication. '*♦

The following work was furnished to my
hand, fully written out ; and though I have written
it wholly over,

should have been much better

PREFACE.

rely

able to satisfy myself, with respect to its style, if
I could as fully have possessed the materials, in
the form of notes and sketches, or bv verbal re-
citals. Every man's own mind is the mould of
his language ; and he who has attempted to vary
that of another, if he be at all accustomed to
writing, must have found the task more difficult
than original composition. The style of this work
is not properly my own, nor that of Mr. Harmon,
but something between both.

There is one subject, on which I wish espe-
cially to address a few remarks, through the me-
dium of this preface, to the christian publick, and
to all who feel any regard for the welfare of the
Indian tribes, whose condition is unfolded in this
work. As Mr. Harmon has returned to the inte-
riour of North America, and, therefore, the obser-
vations which follow, will not be submitted to his
inspection, before they are made publick, the edi-
tor alone must be made accountable for them.

In surveying the widely extended trade of the
North West Company, we perceive evidence of
an energy and perseverance, highly creditable to
the members of it, as men of business. They

PHKFACE.

have explored the western wilds, and planted
their establishments over a tract of country, some
thousands of miles in extent. They have made
the savages of the wilderness tributary to the
comforts of civilized society ; and in many instan-
ces, they have exhibited a surprising fortitude, in
exposing themselves to hardship and to danger.

The souls of the Indians are of more value
than their furs ; and to raise this people in the
scale of intellectual existence, to surronnd them
with the comforts of civilization, to rescue them
from the gloom of superstition, to mould their
hearts to christian kindness, and to cheer their
dying hour with a well founded hope of immortal
glory and blessedness, constitutes an aggregate of
good sufficient to call forth exertion for their re-
lief. The time is rapidly coming, when christian
benevolence will emulate the activity and perse-
verance, which have long been displayed in com-
mercial enterprizes ; when no country will remain
unexplored by the heralds of the cross, where im-
mortal Bouls are shrouded in the darkness of hea^
thenism, and are perishing for lack of vision. The
wandering and benighted sons of our own forests,

riball n(
abando

PREFACE.

XIU

ited
orae
ade
the
tan-
in

■m

rfball not be overlooked. They are not a race
abandoned by God, to inevitable destruction ;
though the idea has, strangely, gotten possession of
some minds. In proportion to the efforts which
have been made, perhaps no missions to the hea-
then have been crowned with greater success,
than those to the American Aborigines. To this
fact, the fruit of the labours of Elliott, of the
Mayhews, of Brainerd, of the Moravians, and, es-
pecially, of the recent establishment among the
Cherokces, will bear abundant witness.

The Indian tribes, whose condition is unfolded
in this work, have claims upon christian compas-
sion; and some facts, which the authour has dis-
closed to me, have led me to suppose, that a mis-
sionary establishment might be made, with ref-
erence to their instruction, with a fair prospect
of success, and with less expense, than ordinarily
attends such operations.

In the numerous establishments of the North
West Company, there are from twelve to fifteen
hundred women and children, who are wholly, or
in part, of Indian extraction. Women have, from
time to time, been taken from ampng the Natives,

! i

III

XIV

PREFACE.

to reside in the forts, by the men in the service
of the company ; and famihes have been reared,
which have generally been left in the country,
when these men have retired to the civilized parts
of the world. These women and children, with a
humanity which deserves commendation, are not
turned over to the savages ; but they are fed, if
not clothed, by the company. They have become
so numerous, as to be a burden to the concern ;
and a rule has been established, that no person, in
the service of the company, shall hereafter take a
woman from among the Natives to reside with
him, as a sufficient number, of a mixed blood, can
be found, who are already connected with the
company. There are, also, in the N. W. country,
many superannuated Canadians, who have spent
the flower of their days in the service of the com-
pany, who have families that they are unwilling to
leave ; and having nothing to attract them to the
civilized world, they continue under the protec-
tion of the company, and are supplied by them,
with the necessaries of life.

A plan has been in contemplation, to provide
for the future maintenance of these people, and

PREFACE.

rvice
ared,
ntry,
)arts
ith a

e not
d, if

como

:ern ;

)n, in

ike a

with

• can
the

:i-?

for the relief of the Company from an increasing
burden, which is, to estabhsh a settlement on the
Rainy Lake River, where the soil is excellent, to
which the people, above mentioned, may resort.
To enable them to make a beginning, in the culti-
vation of the land^ and in the erection of mills,
&;c. the Company propose to give them fifteen
or twenty thousand dollars, and to appoint one of
the Partners to superintend the affairs of the set-
tlement, for three years, or for a longer time, if it
shall be necessary^ .. „

It appears highly probable, tLat a settlement
might thus be formed, which, in a few years, would
secure to those who should belong to it, the com-
forts of life, as the fruit of their own industry ; and
should they prosper, so far as to raise a supply
beyond their own necessities, it might, with mutu-
al advantage, be disposed of to the Company, i

The Partners and Clerks of the North West
Company, who are in the Indian country, as well
as some of those who reside in Canada, and else-
where, have subscribed several thousand dollars,
towp.rd the establishment of a school, either at
the Rainy Lake, or at Fort William, for the in-

xt;

/ .

XVI

PREFACE.

struction of the children, connected with their es-
tabhshments. Some of these children arc the off-
spring of parents, who survey their comparative
degradation, with the deep interest of a strong
natural affection, who are able to bear the ex-
pense of their education, and who would cheerful-
ly contribute, in this way, to raise them to increas-
ed respectability, comfort and usefulness. Should
this school be established, such persons would bo
required to support their children, who should be-
long to it ; while the children of the poor, would
be taught gratuitously.

These facts have opened to my mind a pros-
pect, to which I wish to direct the eye of chris-
tian benevolence. ! would ask, with deep inter-
est, some one of the institutions, whose object is
the diffusion of civilization and Christianity among
the Indian tribes, whether a missionary establish-
ment might not be formed, in concert with the
North West Company, which would, with much
less trouble and even expense to them, accomplish
the object which the Company have in view, than
any establishment which they could independently
make ; and which would, at the same time, have

,^.1.

PREFACE.

XVII

a most auspicious bearing upon the religious in-
terests of the tribes of the N. W. Country.

A school for the instruction of children in the
arts of life, and in the rudiments of science, as well
as in the principles of the christian religion, forms
the basis of the most efficient missionary exertions
among the Indians. The school among the Cher-
okees, is a most interesting object to christian be-
nevolence ; and as the fruit of it, the light of sci-
ence, and the still brighter light of the Sun of
Righteousness, is shedding a cheering radiance
over many minds, that would otherwise have been
shrouded in intellectual and moral darkness. The
school has received the unqualified approbation of
men of all descriptions who have visited it, among
whom are many persons of the most distinguished
character and rank in civil life. If such a school
were established, at a convenient place in the
N, W. Country, it would be as the day spring
from on high to a region, now overspread by an
intellectual and moral midnight.

Men, occupied as the gentlemen of the North
West Company are, in the overwhelminor cares
of a vast commercial concern, would find it diffi-

■m

If §:■

•J

V s

XVlll

PREFACE.

cult to bestow all that attention on a school for
the instruction of the children and yout. ow in
their establishments, whom they might think it
proper to educate, which would be necessary to
secure its proper management. Could this care
be entirely taken off their hands, by men of known
and approved characters, acting under a responsi-
bility to some respectable society ; by men who
would feel all the interests which christian be-
nevolence can create in the welfare of the chil-
dren and youth committed to their care, it does
appear to me, that they would gladly cooperate
with them.

As the North West Company from motives of
interest, as well as from more noble considera-
tions, would contribute something to the support
of such an establishment, should it meet their ap-
probation, the expense of it would, of course, be
less to the society that should embark in the un-
dertaking, than is commonly incurred, in establish-
ments of this sort.

The children and youth above mentioned,
might be instructed in the arts of civilized life, irt
science and in Christianity, with much greater ease

:-■... I'-'l . n ,

PREFACE.

XIX

than the children of the Natives, even it' they
could as easily be obtained ; and when instructed,
they would be equally promising, as the instru-
ments of spreading civilization and the religion of
the gospel, among the Indian tribes. They have
always been habituated to a life, in a great meas-
ure settled ; and they would, therefore, endure
confinement, better than children who have lived
among the wandering savages. They are partial-
ly civilized, by an intercourse with those, who
have carried into the wilderness many of the feel-
ings and habits of civilized society. They would
not be liable to be withdrawn, at an improper
time, from the place of their education, by the
whims and caprice of unstable parents. At the
same time, being familiarly acquainted with the
manners and customs and feelings of the savages,
by a frequent intercourse with them, being able
to speak their languages, and having some of the
Indian blood circulating in their veins, they would,
when properly instructed, be as well qualified to
gain access to the Natives, and to have influence
over them, as if they had originally been taken,
directly from their families.

PREFACE.

As this establishment could probably be made,
with the greatest convenience, within the British
dominions, it might, perhaps, be undertaken with
the surest prospect of success, bj some society in
Great Britain. The Society in Scotland for Pro-
pagating Christian Knowledge has, heretofore,
contributed to the support of missionaries among
the American Indians ; and might, perhaps, be
willing to engage in this undertaking. The Socie-
ty in Massachusetts for Propagating the Gospel
among the Indians of North America has, in some
instances, if I mistake not, acted in concert with
the Society in Scotland, above mentioned; and
might, perhaps, conveniently do it, in this instance.
Every association, however, who may become ac-
quainted with the facts here disclosed, will be able
themselves, to judge most correctly, of their own
resources, and of their own duty. — At Fort Wil-
liam, on Lake Superior, a very considerable num-
ber of the partners of the North West Company
assemble annually, about the middle of June, at
which meeting, many important arrangements are
made, respecting the business of the Company.
At such a meeting, an agent from some benevo-

PREFACE.

XXI

ty m
Pro-
ore,

ipel

lent association, might ascertain their feelings, in
regard to such an establishment as I have proposed.
The Aborigines of America, are capable of be-
ing exalted in the scale of existence, and of arriv-
ing, even at eminence, in the arts and sciences.
The native oratory of some of them, is proverbial
in civilized countries, and has caused them to be
enrolled among the sons of genius. Many of them
afford proof, that they possess acute and compre-
hensive minds ; and as a people, their mental ca-
pacity is certainly respectable. Nor, perhaps, can
a people be found on the earth who are not rais-
ed above them by superior cultivation and means
of improvement, who possess greater elevation of
feeling, and who appear more majestick in ruins.
Their virtues and their vices too, are not those of
ignoble minds. Let their condition be improved
by the arts of civilized life, their minds be en-
lightened by science, and their hearts be softened
by the genial influence of Christianity, and they
will assume a respectable rank among the nations.
Could we hear some of their superior geniuses un-
fold to their countrymen the wonderful scheme of

ii- "

.•i':^

XXll

PREFACE.

redeeming merc}% with the briUiancy and pathos,
which have characterised some of their speeches,
on the interests of their tribes, — with a brilHancy,
rendered more splendid by cultivation, and a pa-
thos, made doubly tender by the softening influ-
ence of the gospel, who would not listen to them
with admiration and with pleasure ? Might we
not hope that, by the blessing of God, they would
be made the honoured and happy instruments, of
turning many of their countrymen, from the errour
of their ways to the wisdom of the just. Could
numbers of them be brought to concert plans for
the extension of the gospel, in the North Wes-
tern wilds, with the skill, and to execute them
with the fortitude and perseverance, which they
display in warring upon each other, the liippiest
"'esults might be expected.

Whether the suggestions here made deserve
consideration or not, I cheerfully submit to the
wisdom and benevolence of those, for whom they
were especially intended. Siich has been my
own view of the importance of the subject here
presented, that I should have charged myself with

-•;f

a cu
oppc
chri^

Bil

££jis*' ••,

PREFACE.

AAlIk

3 pathos,
pecches,
rilliancy,
tid a pa-
Jg influ-
to them
ight we
y would
lents, of
3 errour
Could
lans for
1 Wes-
' them
h they
apples t

Qservc
io the
1 they
n my
here
r with

a culpable neglect, if I had failed to improve this
opportunity, to hold it up to the attention of the
christian publick.

DANIEL HASKEL.

Burlington, Vt. August 2, 1820.

I M

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JOURNAL

April, 1800.
Tuesday^ 29. La Chine. Yesterday, I left
Montreal, for this place, in company with several
other Clerks ; and am on my way to the interiour,
or Indian countries, there to remain, if my life
should be spared, for seven years, at least. For
this space of time I am under an engagement to
serve as a clerk to the North West Company, oth-
erwise denominated M^Tavish, Frobisher, & Co.
The goods intended for the interiour or upper
countries, are here put on board of canoes. These
canoes which are constructed of the bark of the
birch tree, will carry a burden of three and an
half or four tons each; and are severally manned
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HAKMON'S JOURNAL.

t.l

age them with greater dexterity, than any other
people.

Wednesday^ 30. Point Claire. Rainy even-
ing. For the first time in my life, I am to pass
the night in a tent. In the former part of the
day, I was employed in marking bales of goods,
which are to br sent to the Grand Portage or
General Rendezvous. About 12 o'clock, I em-
barked on board of one of the canoes, destined for
the above mentioned place. The whole squad-
ron, which consits of thirty canoes, is divided into
three brigades. One or two Guides or Pilots are
attached to each brigade. Their business is, to
point out the best course up and down the
streams and through the lakes, and to take
charge of the canoes and property on board.
They attend to the repairs of the canoes, which
are frequently broken, and have the same com-
mand over the men, attached to their respective
brigades, as the commander of a vessel has, over
the men on board. ^ The Voyagers, as the men
are called, have many of the customs of sailors ;
and among them the following. By all those on
board, who have never passed certain places, they
expect to be treated with something to drink;
and should a person refuse to comply with their
requisitions, he would be sure of being plunged
into the water, which they profanely call, baptiz-

.:i«"

HARMON S JOURNAL.

ing liim. To avoid such a disaster, I gave the
people of my canoe a few bottles of spirits and
porter, by drinking which, they became very mer-
ry, and exhibited the reverse of their appearance
a few days since, when, with heavy hearts and
weeping eyes, they parted from their relations.
Shortly after we had pitched our tents, an Irish
gentleman, whose house was near the margin of
the water, politely invited me to take tea with
him.

Friday, May 2. Chute au Blondeau. We
have a strong head wind. But, since yesterday
morning, we have come nearly sixty miles, and
have passed two Rapids. At these places, most
of the property was taken out of the canoes, and
carried across the Portages, on the backs of the
people. The young men, who had never been in
the Indian countries, now began to regret that
they had enlisted into this service, which requires
them, as they say, to carry burdens like horses,
when, by remaining in their own country, they
might have laboured like men. , *%ir.k^

Sunday, 4. The wind has been so high, during
the whole of the day, that we could not go upon
the water, I have therefore passed the tirpe in
reading, and in the society of a fellow-clerk.
<u Monday, 5. We are now about one hundred
and twenty miles from Montreal- This afternoon.

'.I

t t

Harmon's journal.

our people killed a deer, with their setting poles,
ag he was crossing the river.

Tuesday, 6. The three Kettles. In the for-
mer part of the day, we passed a beautiful water-
fall, where the Riviere au Rideau, or Curtain
River, falls into this, which is the Ottawa River.
The former is ten or twelve rods wide, and the
water falls perpendicularly, about forty feet, pre-
senting at a little distance, an appearance at once
pleasing and grand. We are now about one hun-
dred and fifty miles from Montreal ; the land on
each side of the river is very level, and the soil
appears to be good. William M'^Gilvray, Esq.
passed us this evening, in a light canoe, bound like
ourselves, to the Grand Portage. >'.^.

Tfiursday, 8. A Chat. We now, for the first
time, see Indian huts or tents.

Friday, 9. We arrived this morning, at this
place, where the North West Company have a
small establishment } and I have passed the after-
noon, in shooting pigeons. , .» iif! i ^ ^ m * 7*

Saturday, 10. Grand Calumet. This Port-
age is nearly two miles long ; and over it, the peo-
ple carry both the canoes and their loading.
Here stands a house, built by those who came
here to traffick with the Indians ; but which has
been abandoned for several years, as the Indians,
who formerly hunted in this vicinity, are now gone

Harmon's jqurnal.

farther north, where Beaver, &c. are found in
greater plenty. Behind this house, I found a small
bark canoe, in which I embarked alone, for the
purpose of shooting ducks. Having proceeded
some distance from the shore, the canoe overset,
and I fell, with my gun, into the water. Having
my great coat on, it was with no small difficulty
that I reached the shore ; and I was happy to es-
cape, with the loss of only my gun.

Sunday, 11. We are encamped on an Island
opposite to Fort Coulonge. Soon after we arriv-
ed here, the person who has the establishment
in charge, came to invite a fellow-clerk, who trav-
els in the same canoe with me, and myself, to sup
with him, to which I readily agreed ; but my com-
panion chose to remain with the canoes. I was
treated with all the politeness of which a Canadi-
an is master, which is not a little ; for in this, as
well as in many other respects, the Canadians re-
semble their ancestors, the French.

Monday, 12. We are encamped on a large
sand bank. I have had a little conversation with my
fellow-traveller, respecting his conduct the last
evening, while I was absent. When I departed
for the Fort, I gave him the keys of our travelling
box and basket, that he might have the means of
making a supper ; and on my return, I was not a
J it tie surprised at finding not only him, but several of

HARMON S JOURNAL.

I :

iv.

the common labourers, much intoxicated. 1 ruprl-
manded Mr. P. with considerable severity, to day,
and told him, that if I should ever again find him
in the like shameful condition, I should be under
the disagreeable necessity of informing our em-
ployers of his conduct, as soon as we should reach
Head-quarters. He promised that he would not
again be guilty of such conduct; but I should
place more reliance on his promise, had not his
mother been a squaw. There seems to be in the
blood of an Indian, a kind of predisposition to in-
temperance. — Wc barter with the natives, receiv-
ing sugar for buscuit, of which, as well as of pork,
beef and spirits, they appear to be uncommonly
fond. V

Tuesday, 13. We are encamped on a rockv
bank, where it is impossible to find a smooth
place, sufficiently large to pitch a tent ; we are
therefore obliged to make our bed between two
large rocks, and sleep in the open air. On the
north side of the river are mountains, which ap-
pear almoct destitute of timber, of any kind.

Wednesday, 14- We shall again sleep where
we did last night, as the people have been employ-
ed, during the whole of the day, in repairing the
canoes, which had become leaky. '.<n«l h*:y

Thursday, 15. Roche Capitaine Portage, This
Portage is so named from a large rock, th^t rises

to a c\
middh
come
persoi
up oi
persor
cross
custoi
I see
choly
ly an
press
of his
Thus
minist
during
death
F

Harmon's jouriVal.

I rupn-
^ to daj,
find him
)e under
our em-
Id reach
ould not
should

not his
e in the
•n to in-
, receiv-
of pork,
mmonly

a rockv
smooth
we are
en two
On the
lich ap-
1.

where
mploy-
ng the

This
t rises

to a considerable height above the water, in the
middle of the rapid. During the day, we have
come up several difficult ones, where many
persons have been drowned, either in coming
up or going down. For every such unfortunate
person, whether his corpse is found of not, a
cross is erected by his companions, agreeably to a
custom of the Roman Catholics ; and at this place,
I see no less than fourteen. This is a melan-
choly sight. It leads me to reflect on the fol-
ly and temerity of man, which cause him to
press on in the path, that has conducted so many
of his fellow creatures, prematurely to the grave.
Thus in hope of gaining a little money, which can
minister but imperfectly to our comfort, and that,
during a short season, we expose ourselves to
death. ^A..'^^,r^"' a-:. ":^ , .,^• ^ ,\ ,\*\: .^ m-\^s.

« , Friday, 16. Came up a rapid where, a few
years since, two canoes, in going down, were brok-
en, and several men were drowned ; therefore,
we see more crosses erected.

Saturday, 17. Roderick M^Kenzie, Esq. agent
for the North West Company, passed us, who,
with those that accompany him, is on his way to
the Grand Portage.

Sunday, IS, The Lazy Portage. This day
we left the Ottawa River on our right hand, and
came up a small river, that falls info it. A-

- f

t * .

Harmon's journal.

bout noon, we passed a cave, in the side of a
high h^ll. This cave, I am told, is spacious ; hut
we were in too great haste, to permit my examin-
ing it. This I was the more inclined to do, as I
am told that the natives relate many remarkable
stories respecting it ; and among others, that a
large animal remains in it, which they call a Man-
eater, and which devours all those, who have the
presumption to approach the entrance, of his soli-
tary dwelling.

Monday, 19. The Pines. Came up several
bad rapids ; but have been so fortunate, thus far,
as to meet with no disaster. The banks on each
side of the river, for a considerable distance, are
a perfect natural wall, formed of smooth stones ;
and are about one hundred (eet high.

Tuesday, 20. La Vase, or Miry-place. Dur-
ing the whole of this day, we have been crossing
pcnds, and small lakes.

Wednesday, 21. After coming over a number
of short portages, and crossing several ponds, and
descending a small river, at the source of which is
a height of land, we have at length arrived at a
place, called the Meadows, which constitutes the
north end of Lake Nipisangue, or, as it is com-
monly written, Nippising. Here we find several
Indians, who appear to be in poor circumstances.
We, however, obtain from them a little sugar,

IM-

\-'

Harmon's journal.

.\\

and a few wooden dishes and spoons, for which we

give them provisions. * ^ ■ . '

^- Thursday, 22. Sailed a part of the day, on

the above mentioned lake ; but, towards noon, the

wind was so high, that we were obliged to encamp

on a small Island, which is almost destitute of

wood.

-t Friday^ 23. The lost Child. This place took
its name from the following circumstance. Seve-
ral years since, the natives, being encamped here,
lost a child, for whom they made diligent search,
but in vain. They imagined, however, that they
heard his lamentations in the bowels of the earth;
whereupon they commenced digging, but to no
purpose ; the reason of which they conceived to be,
that the Devil, or Bad Spirit, as he is called by
the Indians, was continually carrying him from one
place to another, in the earth. Many large holes
have actually been dug in the earth, as our peo-
ple have shown me.

In the morning we left Lake Nipisangue, and
have ever since been descending the French Riv-
er, which is a considerable stream.

In the latter part of the day, we passed a nar-
row place in the French River, to which, a num-
ber of years since, many of the most abandoned
and savage Natives were accustomed to resort
pv<iry spring, and where th^y built a kind of Fort,

«♦

■• : ; I

HARMON S JOURNAL.

or stone wall, which is still to be seen. Behind
this, these villains secreted themselves ; and, when
the vojagers were passing by, discharged volleys
of shot into their canoes, and of course, as the dis-
tance was small, killed many of them. They
would then rush from their hiding place, and fall
upon and butcher the remainder, and go off with
the plunder, which they had thus seized, into
a distant part of the country. But the bet-
ter sort of their countrymen, would not join
them in such barbarous and unprovoked hostilities.
At length the good Indians, who were well dispos-
ed towards the white people from Canada, pro-
nounced these murderers a nuisance to society, and
made war upon them, until the greater part of
them were destroyed. The few that survived,
retired into a distant part of the country, and no-
thing has since been heard, respecting them. The
friendly Indians, for their exertions in extirpating
their unworthy relations, were handsomely re-
warded by the North West Company.

The Canadian Voyagers, when they leave one
stream to go up or down another, have a custom
of pulling off their hats, and making the sign of the
cross, upon which one in each canoe, or at least, in
each brigade, repeats a short prayer. The same
ceremonies are observed by them, whenever they
pass a place, where any one has been interred, and

-Harmon's journal.

a cross has been erected. Those, therefore, who
are in the habit of voyaging this way, are obliged
to say their prayers more frequently perhaps,
than when at home ; for at almost every rap-
id which we have passed, since we left Mon-
treal, we have seen a number of crosses erected ;
and at one, I counted no less than thirty ! It is
truly melancholy, and discouraging, seriously to re-
flect on the great number of my fellow creatures,
who have been brought to an untimely end, by
voyaging this way, as I know not but I shall my-
self, also, be doomed to the same watery grieve.
With such dismal spectacles, however, almost con-
tinually before our eyes, we press forward, with
all the ardour and rashness of youth, in the same
dangerous path, stimulated by the hopes of grati-
fying the eye, and of securing a little gold, j .
«. Saturday, 24. Lake Huron. We find on the
shore of this lake, low Cranberries, in great abun-
dance.

Sunday, 25. The wind has been so high, that
it has prevented us from sailing, the greater part
of the day. We are encamped on an island, of
which there are many in this lake. On one of
them, it is reported, that the Natives killed a
snake, which measured thirty six (eet in length.
The length and size of this astonishing serpent,
they have engraved on a largo smooth rock, which

? ii

, »(

Harmon's travels.

we saw, as we passed by. But we have otteu
seen other engravings, on the rocks, along the
rivers and lakes, of many different kinds of animals,
some of which, I am told, are not now to be found,
in this part of the world, and probably never
existed.. '' '*'*• -^ •'■ '■ 'v-ti ;f...M^^v'

* Wednesday, 28. Island of St. Joseph. To
this place the British troops came and built a for-
tification, when the Americans took possession of
Michilimackinack. There are stationed here one
Captain, one Lieutenant, one Ensign and thirty
nine privates. The fort is built on a beautiful
rise of ground, which is joined to the main island
by a narrow neck of land. As it is not long since
a settlement was made here, they have only four
dwelling houses and tvt^o stores, on the other parts
of the peninsula ; and the inhabitants appear like
exiles. The North West Company have a house
and store here. In the latter, they construct ca-
noes, for sending into the interiour, and down to
Montreal. Vessels, of about sixty tons bur-
then, come here from Detroit and Mackana and
Soult St. Maries. The whole island is computed
to be about twenty miles in circumference ; the
soil is good ; it is distant, nearly nine hundred
miles from Montreal, and forty five from Macka-
na, and is in Lat. 47° North. Spirits are sold here

Harmon's journal.

tor six dollars a gallon ; and other things, in the
same proportion. »yr^ i. . - ' ' >^ ■

Thursday, 29. Duncan M^Gilvray, Esq. one
of the agents for the North West Company, arriv-
ed in the morning, at St. Josephs, from Mackana ;
and soon after, we emharked on board of our
canoes, to come to this small Island. As the
weather is calm, my fellow-traveller and I in-
tend sleeping in our canoe ; but the labourers
will pass the night on shore. * >- v.,- , ' *.v

Friday, 30. Soult St, Maries. Here the
North West Company have another establish-
ment, on the nortft side of the Rapid ; and on
the opposite shore, there are a few Americans,
Scotch and Canadians, who carry on a small traf-
fic with the Natives, and also till the ground a lit-
tle. The soil aboct Lake Huron, which we have
just passed, appears to be good, and the face of the
country is low and level. — Here the North West
Company have built locks, in order to take up
loaded canoes, that they may not be under the
necessity of carrying them by land, to the head of
the Rapid ; for the current is too strong to ie
stemmed by any craft. The Company are like-
wise building a saw mill, at the foot of the Rapid,
to furnish boards, &c. for the Grand Portage, &c.
Here is the outlet of Lake Superiour, by which its
waters pass into Lake Huron. On each of these

» <" I,

!'{

i lj.,1

HARMON S JOURNAL.

lii! f

lakes, the North West Company have a vessej.
One goes to the Grand Portage, and the other to
Detroit, Sic.

Saturday, 31. We shall sleep where we did
the last night. Several of us have visited the
people, who live on the other side of the rapid,
where we saw a dance of the Natives, who are
Sauteux or Chippeways.

Sunday, June, 1. Poinl au Pin, or Pine Point,
in Lake Superiour. We here find the vessel that
sails from this to the Grand Portage. I went on
board, and the Captain informed me, that she
would carry about ninety five tons, and that she
mJikes four or five trips every season. I left the
Soult Sc. Maries, in company with three hundred
men, who are in thirty five canoes.

Monday, 2. Point aux jfrahles, or Maple
Point, We now form four Brigades, in which
there are six clerks. ^' '"' ' > ^ i* t^ -^ ...v,

Tuesday, 3. A high wind during the whole
day. In the morning, we attempted to sail, but
soon found we could not, without shipping a great
deal of water ; we therefore soon landed again,
and r.re encamped, within one hundred rods of
the place where we tarried the last night. * (t \»

Wednesday, 4. As it has rained and snowed
all day, accompanied by a high wind, we have not
been able to leave our encampment of the last

Harmon's journal.

night. Mons. St. Germain, who has the charge
of a small Fort, belonging to the North West
Company, not far from this, visited us, and brought
with him a few necessaries, t. - ** >i«*ii 4i^*itiii j
^" Thursday, 5. Although the swells in the Lake
are very high, we have made good prepress, dur-
ing the whole day. We are encamped neaT a
large rock, on which the Natives, as they pass
this way, leave an arrow or two, or some other
article of little value to appease the Devil, or
Muchamunatoo, as they call him, and prevent him
from doing them harm. l^i.^ *. -i ,. >

Sunday, 8. In the course of the day, we have
passed several islands, which, aa well as the main
land, appear to be covered with little else besides
moss, with here and there a shrubby spruce. ^
- Monday, 9. In the morning we passed anoth-
er Fort, belonging to the North West Company.

Tuesday, 10. We are obliged to anchor our
canoes by a small island, instead of unloading them^
as is customary every night, for the whole coun-
try is on fire ; but whether by accident or design,
I am unable to learn. Our people, who pass this
way every summer, say that, almost every year,
fire runs over this part of the country, which is,
of course, nearly destitute of animals, of any kind,

Thursday, 12. Sugar Point. Our people say
we have sailed ninety miles during the day.

4 W|

■m

Harmon's journal.

!i!

Friday, 13. Grand Portage, where we arriv-
ed late this evening. This place lies in the 48th
degree of north latitude ; and is said to be nine
hundred miles from the Soult St. Maries, and
eighteen hundred from Montreal. The Fort,
which i^ twenty four rods by thirty, is built on
the margin of a bay, at the foot of a hill or moun-
tain, jf considerable height. Within the fort,
there is a considerable number of dwelling houses,
shops and stores, all of which appear to be slight
buildings, and designed only for present conven-
ience. The houses are surrounded by palisades,
which are about eighteen inches in diameter, and
are sunk nearly three feet in the ground, and rise
about fifteen feet above it. The bay is so shallow
that the vessel cannot approach the shore, unless
she is almost without lading. There is a conside-
rable island, directly opposite to the fort, which
shelters the vessel from the winds that blow from
the Lake ; and which renders this, a tolerably
good harbour. There is also another fort, which
stands about two hundred rods from this, belong-
ing to the X. Y. Company, under which firm, a
number of merchants of Montreal and Quebec,
&c. now carry on a trade into this part of the
country. It is only three years since they made
an establishment here ; and as yet, they have had
but little success. ■ t :* - >;. - Wf;^,' -^iiit

"frp

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

This is the Head Quarters or General Ren-
dezvous, for all who trade in this part of the
world ; and therefore, every summer, the greater
part of the Proprietors and Clerks, who have spent
the winter in the Interiour, come here with the
furs which they have been able to collect, during
the preceding season. This, as I am told, is about
the time when they generally arrive ; and some
of them are already here. The people who come
from Montreal with the goods, go no farther
than this, excepting a few who take those articles
to the Rainy Lake, which are intended for Atha-
basca, as that place lies at too great a distance
from this, to permit people who reside there to
come to t'iis place and return, before the winter
commences. Those who bring the goods from
Montreal, on their return, take down the furs, &;c.
from the north, ^m r; „. .v f?/ ^li;*^ j.j cm^O'

Excellent fish, I am informed, are taken here.
White fish are sometimes speared, which will
weigh twenty two pounds. The water in the
lake is uncommonly clear. , , - ...w

Sunday^ 15. The people here pass the sab-
bath, much in the same manner as they do, the
other days of the week. The labouring people
have been employed, during the day, in making and
pressing packs of furs, to be sent to Canada. This
appears, not as it should be. to me, who have been

" 'W

HAUMO^ S JOUKNAL.

tauglit to abstain form labour on the sabbath, and to
consider that it should be employed ii a religious
manner. The people, however, who have been
long in this savage country, have no scruples ot
conscience on this subject. ...,v,.,.^ .-.

.^ ,, Tuesday, 24. I have, for some days past, been
employed, together with several other clerks, in
marking packs of furs. Almost every day, for some
time past, people have been flocking in from
the Interiour, with the returns of the season.

Saturday, 28. The last night, a squaw, in a
state of intoxication, stabbed her husband, who
soon after expired. This afternoon, I went to
their tent, where I saw a number of Indians, of
,both sexes, drinking and crying over the corpse,
to which they would frequently offer rum, and try
to pour it down his throat, supposing him to be as
fond of rum when dead, as he was when alive.
The Natives of this place are Chippeways. .v .

Friday, July 4. In the day time, the Natives
were permitted to dance in the fort, and the Com-
pany made them a present cf thirty six gallons, of
&hrub. In the evening, the gentlemen of tlie
place dressed, and we had a famous ball, in the
dining room. For musick, we had the bag- pipe,
the violin and the flute, which added much to
the interest of the occasion. At the ball, there
was a number of the ladies of this country ; and

Harmon's journal.

I was surprised to find that they could conduct
with so much propriety, and dance so well, r \ .

Sunday, 13. Yesterday, several gentlemen,
on their way to their winter quarters, accompani-
ed me to Charlotte, at the other end of this Port-
age, which is nine miles over. My business was
to send oiF a number of canoes, bound for Fort
des Prairies. The country between this and Fort
Charlotte, is tolerably level ; and the soil appears
to be pretty good. "*' > • • .^ '

Tuesday, 15. This morning a number of gen-
tlemen, as well as myself, left the Grand Portage,
to proceed to winter quarters. I am to accompa-
ny John McDonald, Esq. to Fort des Pra^ es. We
left fort Charlotte, about 3 o'clock P. M. on board
of two canoes, each of which will carry about two
tons, and is pushed on by six Canadians. This is a
small river ; and we have passed several places,
where the men were obliged to carry the lad-
ings, a short distance, and in some places, to trans-
port the canoes also. r^ y.,^

Wednesday, 16, The long Cherry Portage. In
the former part of the day, we crossed small
lakes and ponds, connected by several portages,
and then came over the height of land. Since
passing this, we have descended a small river,
which, I am informed, after running through seve-
ral lakes, at length discharges itself into Hud-

1 .1

r f

Harmon's journal.

son's Bay, in latitude 51° north. At the mouth
of this river, the Hudson Bay Company have a fort,
which is called Albany Factory.

-Friday^ 18. Great Pines. We have this day
crossed the Flinty Lake, so na'"ied from the stone?),
found on its shore. For some time past, I have
had a fit of the ague and fever, every day. It
commenced when I was crossing the large Lakes ;
and, I am told, that it is seldom that a person is
attacked with it, in the region where I now am.
' 'Monday, 21. For the h-it few days, we have
been crossing small lakes and ponds, and coming
down a small river. The country appears thinly
timbered, lies rather^low, and the soil is good. ^ •
^ Tuesday, 22. This evening, there came here
three canoes, manned by Iroquois, who are going
into the vicinity of the upper Red River, to hunt
Beaver, for the North West Company. Some ot
them have their families with them. ''^'i' n kiv
Thursday, 24. Rainy Lake Fort. This is
built about a mile and an half down the river,
from the entrance of the Lake, where there is
a considerable fall. Here the soil is better than
any we have seen, since we left the Ottawa Riv-
er. The timber, also, is of a very good size.
The Lake and River are said to contain excellent
fish, such as sturgeon, white-fish, &c. In the vicin-
ity, a considerable quantity of wild rice is gather-

'-'(

Harmon's journal.

B mouth
^e a fort,

this day
3 stonefj,

I have
lav. 1 1

Lakes ;
erson is
iv am. 'i
7e have
coming
s thinly
3od.
le here
3 going

hunt
ome 01

his is
^ river,
^ere is
r than
a Riv-
size.
jellent

1 vicin-
ather-

■■:^

ed, bj the Natives, who are Chippeways. This
is thought to be nearly as nourishing as the real
rice, and almost as palatable. The kernel of the
former, is rather longer than that of the latter, and
is of a brownish colour. • •♦t"'*b ^t^ .h^ir//.^^

Friday, 25. In the former part of the day,
we overtook several gentlemen, who, like our-
selves, are on their way to their winter quarters.
This is a beautiful river, and pretty free from
rapids. f :*.rii ]f^ vn i iimJW^ ji^'» Jjii; r»n .■*?<• i"^!

Saturday, 26. This morning, we met twenty
four canoes from Athabasca. They say they suf-
fered much for want of food, on their way ; and
during four days, ate nothing. We gave them a
dram, which made them almost forget their late
sufferings. They will arrive at the Rainy Lake,
later than usual. c-"^v? s^?/ Tfrvn fi^ >Mt .?> t; .^.M,r. v

Monday, 28. We have come down several
rapids, at one of which a canoe was broken, the
last year, and a man drowned. We are still in
the Rainy Lake river, which is about one hundred
and twenty miies long, and twelve or fifteen rods
broad. The land on each side is low, and is said
to be excellent. The timber consists of birch, a
species of pine, hemlock, poplar, aspin, cedar,

Tuesday, 29. This day we came across the
Woody Lake, which is full of islands. It is about

Harmon's journal.

thirty six miles in length ; and the soil ahout it is
much like that, along the Rainy Lake River.
We are now in Winipick River, and have passed
a rapid where the last year, three men were
drowned. One of our men fired at a black bear,
but did not kill him. "'"' ^J ^< i-ft^M

Wednesday, 30. Passed a number of miry
Portages, and a place where, three years since,
the Natives, who are Chippeways, fired upon our
people, but without killing any of them. One of
the Indians was taken, with the intention of carry-
ing him to the nearest Fort, and there punishing
him as he deserved. After proceedinoj a consid-
erable distance, however, and when near a rapid,
he jumped out of the canoe, intending, as was sup-
posed, to swim to the opposite shore, and thus es-
cape. But the current was too strong ; and he
went down the rapid, and was probably drowned.

Thursday, 31. Mouth of the River Winipick.
Here the North West Company, and the Hudson
Bay Company, have each a fort. Here the above
named river discharges its waters into Lake Win-
ipick. The River Winipick, through the greater
part of its course, is a succession of small lakes ;
and in several places there are falls, of a conside-
rable height. The country around it is broken ;
and occasionally, majestick and frightful waterfalls
are to be seen, particularly where the White

bout it is

3 River.

e passed

en were

ick bear,

of miry

•1

rs since,

jpon our
One of

of carry-
>unishing
I consid-

a rapid,

ivas sup-

thus es-

and he

rowncd.

^inipick.
Hudson

e above

te Win-

greater
lakes ;

^onside-

)roken j

lerfalls

White

.-■J

HARMON S JOUKNAL.

River joins this, about thirty miles above where
wfc now are. A few miles above this, there is a
small lake, called Lac de Bonne, from which the
Hudson Bay people leave our rout, and proceed to-
ward the Albany Factory. The soil is good ; and
among the fruit, I observe the red plum. The
grape, al^y, grows well in this vicinity. In the neigh-
bouring woods, a few moose and deer are found;
and the Lake and River are well supplied with
fish. — Our people are employed in drying the
gooda some of which were wet, in coming down
the rapids, yesterday. • . ...it-.. -,.x,,..i .* ?.-; ^•'../'r
Saturday^ jhigust 2. When I left the Grand
Portage, it was expected that I should go up the
Sisiscatchwin river, to spend the winter. That
river falls into the north western end of Lake
Winiplck. But, since our arrival here, we have
received intelligence from ♦he Sw^v River De-
partment, which country lies between Lake Win-
ipich and the Red and Asslniboin rivers, that, in
the cpinion of Mr. M<^Leod, who superiiuends the
concerns of that region, it is necessary to make
another establishment there. It is therefore de-
termined that I shall go and take charge of it ;
and I shall accordingly remain here a few days,
to wait for the arrival of the brigade, destined to
the Swaij River department. — The after part of
the day, I spent in shooting pigeons, which I {ounA

"N't
V

(>■

-4 *■

HARMON S JOURNAL.

to be imrneroiis, as at this season, red raspberries,
and other kinds of fruit, are ripe, and exist here
in abundance. ^ «,v.;>H -*->-? i--|i •?-

Sunday, 3. In walking in the adjacent coun-
try, I saw the bushes and brambles loaded with
ripe fruit. While partaking of it, I was led to
reflect on the beneficence of the great Authour of
nature, who scatters his favours with an unsparing
hand, and spreads a table here in the wilderness,
for tb. refreshment of his creatures. ' "■''^ — ' '
* , T'as is the first day which I have ever spent,
since my infancy, without eating either bread or
biscuit. As a substitute for bread, we now make
use of what the Natives call 'pimican^ which con-
sists of lean meat, dried and pounded fine, and
then mixed with melted f|^t. This compound is
put into bags, made of the skins of the buffaloe,
&c. and when cold, it becomes a solid body. If
kept in a dry place, it will continue good for years.
But, if exposed to moisture, it will soon become
musty, and unfit for use. Pimican is a very pala-
table, nourishing and healthy food ; and on it, our
Voyagers subsist, while travelling in this country*
Sometimes we add to the two above named ingre-
dients, sugar or dried berries, which we procure

from the Natives ; and the tfiste of it is thus verv
much improved. ^ .. ,/,.«. ^

'. Monday, 4. 1 have visivcd the Hudson Bay

.t'c

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

Dberries,

'■^V

ist here

nt coun-

ed with

s led to

thour of
nsparing
iderness.

3r spent,
Dread or

)W make

ich Con-

ine, and

pound is
juiTaloe,

1*
1

)dy. If

r years.

become

y pala-

'*■

1 it, our
;ountry»

1 ingre-

jrocure

is very^

m Bay

people, whose fort is but a few rods from ours.
Mr. Miller, the gentleman who has charge of it,
informed me, that they obtain their goods from Al-
bany Factory ; that, in going down with their bar-
ges, they are generally about forty days ; but, that
they arc nearly twice that time in returning, in
consequence of the current. The Factory lies to
the north east from this.

Wednesday, 6. This morning Mr. M^Donell,
whom we passed a few days since, overtook, and
informed us, that one of his canoes broke, in com-
ing dow\ the rapids, that one of the men was
drowned, and most of the property on board was
lost.

Friday, 8. This evening, Mons. Mayotte took
a woman of this country for a wife, or rather con-
cubine. All the ceremonies attending such an
event, are the following. Wheu a person is desi-
rous of taking one of the daughters of the Natives,
as a companion, he makes a present to the parents
of the damsel, of such articles as he supposes will
be most acceptable ; and, among them, rum is in-
dispensable ; for of that all the savages are fond,
to excess. Should the parents accept the articles
oflered, the girl remains at the fort with her
suitor, and is clothed in the Canadian fashion.
The greater part of these young women, as 1 am
informed, are better pleased to remain with the

#■

HARMON S JOURNAL.

i; I

whits people, than with their own relations.
Should the couple, newly joined, not agree, they
are at liberty, at any time, to separate ; but no
part of the property, given to the parents of the
girl, will be refunded, .t -^ v! :f %rf • ,

Sunday, 10. Lnkc Winipick. In the former
part of the day, the people for whom I have long
been waiting, came up ; and soon after, I embark-
ed with them, and came hither. Although we are
not in want of provisions, yet our people have
killed a dog to eat, the flesh of which, they say, is
delicious. The dogs of this country, which resem-
ble wolves, differ considerably from the dogs,
found in the civilized part of the world.

Monday, 11. We embarked, early in the
morning ; but soon, the wind blew so as to oblige
us to make the land, which we have done, on a
point that projects far into the Lake. Soon after
we reached the shore, a number of the Indians of
this quarter, who are Chippeways and Muscagoes,
came to pay their respects to us, to whom we gave
some rum, tobacco, &;c.

Sunday, 17. Entrance of the river Dauphine.
Lake Winipick, which we now leave to go up this
river, is about two hundred and fifty miles in
length, and from three to sixty or seventy, in
breadth. The country about this lake, for a consid-
erable distance, is low, and is overspread with

»ng,

HARMON'S JOURNAL,

clations.

je, they

but no

s of the

former
ave long
embark-
h we are
le have
'J say, is
K resem-
iie dogs,

pretty heavy timber, and the soil appears to be
good. Dauphine river is so shallow, at present,
that our people are under the necessity of leaving
half their ladings, for which they will return, after
having proceeded a certain distance with the re-
mainder. ;^;^t^:»^?_ ■'i^^ik' bm -. i-m^in >r\ -mi} i/i*yfi

Tuesday, 19. Last night, the wind blew so
high, that it drove the water of the Lake to such
a distance up the beach, that we were under the
necessity of removing our baggage farther into
the woods, at three different times. This morn-
ing, our people came back for the remainder of
the property ; and we proceeded up the river,
which is about ten rods wide. The country about
it is level.

Wednesday, 20. Lac St. Martin. The river
Dauphine passes ^hrough this lake. We here
see a great number of swans, bustards, pelicans,
&;c. The country around is swampy j and I am
informed, that Moose are numerous in the vi-
cinity. ■'"■' '''■ ' ^' '" ' '■ ■'■^'' ■• ^^ ■ ^ "''

Friday, 22. This morning we left Lac St.
Martin, and entered the Muddy Lake, where w6
again find fowls, in great abundance.

Saturday, 23. JYorth end of the Plain Portage.
This portage is about two miles over, through a
beautiful country, and the soil is excellent*

Sunday, 24. Little Lake Winipick. Here

Harmon's journal.

l:';:!

iA f ;

ill

N
, Hi;, :

we find a number of the Natives, who arc
Chlppeways, waiting our arrival, to get rum to
drink, and necessaries, to enable them to hunt
the beaver. ,

Monday, 25. We remain still, where we
were the last night ; and have been employed,
during the day, in making out a selection of goods
for the establishment at the entrance of the
river Dauphine, which falls into the west end of
this Lake. At that place, a French missionary
resided, before the British obtained possession
of Canada. He remained there, but for a short
time ; and great success, therefore, could not
have been expected. I am told, however, that
there are some Indians, still living, who recollect
prayers, which were taught them by the mis-
sionary.

Saturday, 30. Encampment Island. Here we
arrived, in the fore part of the day ; and we have
been employed, ever since, in setting aside goods
for the Red Deer River, which falls into this
lake, at the north end. We are now nearly
across the lake, which is about one hundred and
twenty miles long, and from five, to thirty broad.
There are no mountains, of any magnitude, in this
part of the country. The land is generally low,
and well covered with timber, which consists

Harmon's journal.

of a species of pine, birch, poplar, aspiii, wil-
low, &c.

Friday^ September 1. In the morning, Mr. M^
Gillis, with most of the people, left us to proceed
to the Red Deer River, where they are to pass
the ensuing winter. Mr. M^^Leod, with a num-
ber of people in one canoe, has gone to Lac
Bourbon, which place lies nearly north west from
this. We here take, in nets, the white fish, which
are excellent. f

r; Wednesday, 3. I have passed the day in
reading the Bible, and in meditating on my pre-
sent way of living ; and, I must confess, that it too
much resembles that of a savage. ■ '': ^ s

Sunday, 7. Late the last evening, Mr. Mc
Leod returned from Lac Bourbon; and, this
morning, they again embarked for Swan River,
and left me here, with two men, and as many
women, to wait for the arrival of a number of
canoes, which are still behind, but which are
expected in daily.

Wednesday, 10. Yesterday, a part of the
people arri>ed, for Avhom I have been waiting,
some of whom I sent to the Red Deer River, and

others to Swan River. , t .a.

Sunday, October 4. JVorth end of Little Lake

WinipicL From the 29th of August, until the

morning of this day, I remained on Encampment

HARMON S JOURNAL.

ul^

"i I

ill

Island, waiting for the arrival of the people, v.Iii^
were left behind. But, as they had almost con-
stantly high winds, which, I am told, are common
in this late part of the season, they did not make
their appearance, until the second instant. - •
"f During the long stay which I made at that
unpleasant Island, we had little or nothing to eat,
excepting what we took from the water with our
nets. There were times, when we iiet with
little saccess. When the wind was high, we could
not set our nets ; and consequently took nothing.
One night the wind was so high, that it took the
only canoe which we had, to the other side of the
Lake, a distance of five miles, at least. We were
thus deprived of the means of setting our nets.
On the eighth day after this disaster, Provi-
dence sent an Indian to the place of our en-
campment, who lent us his canoe to go in search
of ours, which our people found, uninjured.
While we had no canoe, we were under the
disagreeable necessity of living upon the fish
which we had left on the beach, when we took
them in plenty. They had, by this time, become
almost putrid. Unsavoury, however, as they
were, they did not last so long as we could have
wished; for, when they were expended, we had
nothing to eat, until a kind Providence sent a
black bear near oar tents. One of my men fired,

)lc, v.an
ost con
common
)t make

at that
to eat,
vhh our
ct with
7e could
lothinff.
Dok the
! of the
'^e were
ir nets.
Provi-
our en-
search
injured,
er the
le fish
e took

become
» they
3 have
ve had
sent a
1 fired,

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

and killed him, which was a blessing, for which
we endeavoured to be thankful. We considered
it sent by Heaven ; and felt, that we deserved not
such a favour. But ^he rain descends on the un-
just as well as the just. — Yesterday, it snowed,
during most of the day, which prevented us from
decamping. But early this morning, without re-
luctance, we left the solitary Island, where many
a moment of ennui passed over me. As I had
no other book, I read during my stay there the
greater part of the Bible. This afternoon, we
meet two men, in a small canoe, from Swan
River, loaded with provisions, for the people
of the Red Deer River. We did not suffer so good
an opportunity, for furnishing ourselves with a
sufficiency of food, to sustain us until we should
meet with another supply, to pass unimproved.
How delicious is food to a person who is near
famishing ! But there are thousands, who know
not how to prize abundance, because they have
never experienced the distresses of want.

Thursday, October 9. Little Swan River. Yes-
terday, on account of high winds, we could not
leave our encampment ; but early this morning,
we embarked on board of our canoes, and at
twelve, left Little Lake Winipick, and entered
this river, which is eight or ten rods wide, very
shallow, and full of rapids. I therefore debark-

Harmon's journal.

ed, and walked along on the beach about four miles,
in the snow, mud and water. The people, also,
for want of a sufficiency of water, were obliged to
debark, and drag their canoes up the shallow
places. But we are now encamped around a
large fire, with plenty of food ; I have given to
each of the people a dram, and we have all ceas-
ed to think of the fatigue and trouble of the day.
To make a place to lie down, the people scrape
away the snow, and lay down a few branches ot
the pine, such as this country in every part pro-
duces ; and on this we spread a blanket or two,
and cover ourselves with another. A day of hard
labour, and of great fatigue, will enable a person
to sleep soundly, on such a bed ; and to obtain
refreshment, such as a sluggard will seek for in
vain, on a bed of down.

Friday., 10. Swan River Fort. In the morn-
ing we crossed Swan Lake, which is nearly eight
miles long, and then entered the Great Swan
River. This river is about eleven rods wide ;
there is a sufficiency of water, and there is no
rapid from its mouth to the fort, a distance of
twelve miles. The country adjoining, is low, and
in many places, swampy, and the soil is rich.
Mons. Perigne, the superintendant of the fort, has
a tolerable kitchen garden. The Hudson Bay
people, once came here ; but it is several years

:im .

HARMON S JOURNAL.

since they abandoned the place. As they have
nothing to expect from the Company, but their
salaries, they seem, so far as I can learn, to make
but little exertion to extend their i^'ade, and,
thereby, to benefit their employers. H'-vj •<;;.' '^r
• Saturday, 11. The day has been employed in
fitting out Mons. Perigne, who, with six labouring
men, is to go and build a fort, about fifty miles
up this river, where they will pass the winter. A
few miles from this, there is a salt spring, by boil-
ing down the water of which, tolerable salt is
made. It is less strong than that brought from
Canada ; but, used in sufficient ouantity, it will
preserve meat very well. ' * "^ ... ....x< .vv+

Sunday, 12. The people destined to build a
fort up the river, left us to day. I shall remain
here until some persons arrive from Alexandria,
which is situated nearly one hundred miles to the
westward of this, among the Prairies. There I
shall pass the winter, with Mr. M'^Leod, or go
and build by the side of the Hudson Bay people,
who are about three leagues distant from him.
— Our men shoot a few hares and ducks.

Thursday, 16. We have taken a few fish
out of this river, with nets. This evening, two
men on horses arrived from Alexandria, by whom
I received a letter from Mr. M^Leod, requesting
me to accompany them to that place.

'^f

\ h

Harmon's journal.

,:' s ,'!

Saturday, IS. Second crossing place in the Swan
River. In the morning we left the fort. The
country which we have passed through, is low ;
and the timber, consisting of poplar, aspin, birch,
willow, pine and an inferiour kind of maple, is
small. Of the sap of the maple, sugar is made ;
but its quality is not equal to that, produced
from the real maple. >• >- y,ui4A hr.r iru.<'t w-.arjfu
Monday, 20. Bird Mountain. Here Mons.
Pcrigne and others are building a fort. Yester-
day and to day, our way has been through prai-
ries, interrupted occasionally, by small groves of
wood. Cranes and Pheasants are to be seen in
the prairies ; and to day, I have also seen and
fired at eight Elk, without having killed any of
them. They are about the size of a cow, and of
a light grey colour. The males, which have long
branching horns, are animals of a noble and majes-
tick appearance. .v-t..^

J., Wednesday, 22. The foot of a high hill, and
near a small Lake. The waters of this lake
have a sulphureous taste. In the morning, we
left Swan River on our right, after having
crossed it on a raft, made by tying several dry
trees together. Since leaving that river the
country appears more hilly, and almost destitute
of timber of any kind. Cranes and pheasants
arc to be seen, iiXGij where. I'w «{?, .Hpf'-'.-wi n* ^f

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

' Thursday^23. Alexandria. We arrived here
in the afternoon ; and I am happy to find myself,
at length, at the end of my journey, and where I
hope to pass a few months, at least, in quietness.
The fort is built on a small rise of ground, on the
bank of the Assiniboine, or Upper Red River,
that separates it from a beautiful prairie, about
fen miles long, and from one to four bi'oad, which
is as level as the floor of a house. At a little
distance behind the fort, are small groves of
birch, poplar, aspin and pine. On the whole,
the scenery around it, is delightful. The fort is
sixteen rods in length, by twelve in breadth ;
the house?, stores, &c., are well built, are plaister-
cd on the inside and outside, and are washed over
with a white earth, which answers nearly as well
vs lime, for white washing. This earth is found,
in certain places, in all parts of this country. —
Here horses are to be bousrht of the Natives
for a mere trifle. They are well built, strong, and
tolerably fleet. /^ * tw&k^ f^'A'V^u**^ »t»«, Ui^i\(Jt»>Ahx',\;^

' This place lies in Latitude 52" north, and in
103** west Longitude. Mr. M^Leod is now gone
to fort Dauphine, on horse back, which lies only
four days' march from this, over land ; yet it is
nearly two months, since f passed iherc in a

iiJ:

■#

HARMON 8 JOURNAL.

":\i.:\

»f Tuesday, 28. Mr. M<^Leod and company
have just returned from fort Dauphine ; and I
am happy in meeting him» after so loqg a sep-
aration, and he appears to be pleased to see me,
safely here. From the time that I was left at the
Encampment Island until now, I have had no
person with whom I could converse in English ;
and I am not yet able tp converse in French,
though I can read it tolerably well. .^-^ ,**-.-;
Smday, JSTovember 9. Qn the 30th ultimo, I
set ofij in company with four Canadians, on hor^^
back, for Swan River fort. The day we left
this, it snowed and raired, which caused us tp
pass a very disagreeable night, as we had noth-
ing but our wet blankets with which to cover
ourselves. The people went down for goods ;
and as there is no person there who can rpad and
write, I went to deliver out such articles as we
are in immediate want of here. , „, .. ..,,,

Sunday, 16. The Indians who come to this
establishment are Crees and Assiniboins. The
principal part of the former, generally remain in
the woody part of the country, and hunt the
moose, elk, beaver, &c. and the latter remain in
the large prairies, and hunt buffaloes, wolves, &;c.
Last Wednesday, twelve families of Creea and
.\s9inib0ins came from the large prairies, and let
us have furs and provisions. Both the men and

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

women have been drinking, ever since, and their
noise is very disagreeabJe ; for they talk, sing and
cry, at the same time. — Our men play at cards on
the skbbath, the same as on any other day. For
such improper conduct, I once reproved them ;
but their reply was, there is oo sabbath in this
country, and, they added, no God nor devil ; and
their behaviour but too plainly shows, that they
spoke as they think* It is a lamentable fact, that
those who have been for any considerable time
in this savage country, lay aside a greater part
of the regulations of civilized and christian peo-
ple, and behave little better than the savages.
It is true, we have it not at all times in our
power, to observe the sabbath As we ought, as
the Natives come to our establishments as often
on that day, ds any other ; and when they do
come, they must be attended to, and their wants
must be supplied. We are, also, frequently under
the necessity of travelling on the sabbath. But
it is likewise true, that, if we were rightly dis-
posed, our minds might, on this day, be almost
wb jy occupied with divine things. I must,
therefore, acknowledge, that wc have no rea-
sonable excuse for violating the sabbath, as we

^11 do. ^ \J*10ifH '»^ *« »i -*« »'->r«V .vt«. niftrt.

Wednesday^ 19. Last night, there fell about
four inches of snow, which is the first that we

;'.1

HARMON S JOURNAL.

ll f H

have had, this season. — Yesterday, eight families
of Crees came in. While drinking, one of their
women, who had a sharp pointed knife about her,
fell down, and drove it nearly two inches into her
side ; but the wound is not thought to be mortal.
To see a house fuH of drunken Indians, consisting
of men, women and children, is a most unpleasant
sight ; for, in that condition, they often wrangle,
pull each other by the hair, and fight. At some
times, ten or twelve, of both sexes, may be seen,
fighting each other promiscuously, until at last,
they all fall on the floor, one upon another, some
spilling rum out of a small kettle or dish, which
they hold in their hands, while others are throw-
ing up what they have just drunk. To add to
this uproar, a number of children, some on their
mothers' shoulders, and others running about and
taking hold of their clothes, are constantly bawl-
ing, the older ones, through fear that their par-
ents may be stabbed, or that some other misfor-
tune may befal them, in the fray. These shrieks
of the children, form a very unpleasant chorus to
the brutal noise kept up by their drunken par-
ents, who are engaged in the squabble.

Sunday^ JYovember 30. This, being St. An-
t!rew's day, which is a (vie among the Scotch, and
our Bourgeois^ Mr. M^Leod, belonging to that
nation, the people of the fort, agreeably to the

Harmon's journal.

families
of their
►out her,

into her

mortal,
onsisting:
pleasant
wrangle,
At some
be seen,

at last,
er, some
1, which
3 throw-
) add to
on their
30ut and
\y bawl-
leir par-
• misfor-

shrieks
lorus to
:ei) par-

St. An-
tch, and
to that
' to the

custom of the country, early in the morning, pre-
sented him with a cross, &c. and at the same
time, a number of others, who were at his door,
discharged a volley or two of muskets. Soon af-
ter, they were invited into the hall, where they
received a reasonable dram, after which, Mr.
M'^Leod made them a present of a sufficiency of
spirits, to keep them merry during the remainder
of the day, which they drank at their own house.
In the evening, they were invited to dance in the
hall ; and during it, they received several flagons
of spirits. They behaved with considerable pro-
priety, until about eleven o'clock, when their
heads had become heated, by the great quantity
of spiritou;} liquor which they had drunk, during
the course of the day and evening. Some of
them became quarrelsome, as the Canadians gen-
erally are, when intoxicated, and to high words,
blows soon succeeded; and finally, two battles
were fought, which put an end to this truly genteel,
North Western ball. **{*»<»'< v.^ i;;.j(t.«»j,> is ^ 9i «»,.;.>
if'^ Tuesday, December 2. As yet, we have only a
few inches of snow. Yesterday morning, accom-
panied by six men on horse-back, I went to the
lodge or tent of one of our hunters. The people
went for meat, and I, for the pleasure of riding,
and seeing the country. We arrived at the place
where the Indian was encamped, just as tho sun

HARMON S JOURNAL.

was sinking below tli(5 horizon, and when the hun- ||
ter was about to take a sweat, which is frequently
done in the following manner. The women make
a kind of hut, of bended willows, which is nearly
circular, and if for one or two persons only, not
more than fifteen feet in circumference, and three
or four in height. Over these, they lay the skins
of the buifaloe, Sic. and in the centre of the hut,
they place heated stones. The Indian then en-
ters, perfectly naked, with a dish of water in his
hand, a little of which, he occasionally throws on
the hot stones, to create steam, which, in connex-
ion with the heat, puts him into a profuse perspi-
ration. In this situation he will remain, for about
an hour ; but a person unaccustomed to endure
such heat, could not sustain it for half that time.
They sweat themselves in this manner, they say,
in order that their limbs may become more 8U|>
pie, and they more alert, in pursuing animals, <.

which they are desirous of killing. They, also,
consider sweating a powerful remedy, for the most
of diseases. As they come from sweating, they
frequently plunge into a river, or rub themselves
over with snow. The country we passed
through, is large prairies, with here and there
a grove of small trees. This evening we return-
ed to the fort ; and the horses of our people
were loaded with the flesh of the moose and elk.

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

The buffaloes are as yet a considerable distance
farther, out in the spacious prairies. Nothing but
severtj cold weather will drive them into the
woodjr part of the country, to which they will
then come, in order to be less exposed to the
wind and weather, than they would be, to remain
in the open plains.

Sunday, 21. There is now J.bout a foot of
snow on the ground; and, on th<j 11th instant,
I left this place, in company with ieven Canadians,
for Swan River fort. Each man had a sledge,
drawn by two dogs, loaded with one hundred and
Mty pounds weight of furs, besides provisions to
serve man and beast, to perform the trip. On
our return, the sledges were loaded with goods.
We reached our fort, this afternoon, where 1 am
happy to find Mr. Hugh M<^Gillis, on a visit from
Red Deer River, and also, two men with letters,
from Fort des Prairies, or Sisiscatchwin River.
The former place, lies about one hundred and
fifty miles from this, and the latter, four or five
hundred, in nearly a north direction.

Wednesday, 24. Yesterday, I went to see
the fort of the Hudson Bay Company, which is
siti/atcd about nine miles down this river, and is
in the charge of a Mr. Sutherland. He has a
woman of this country, for a wife, who, I was
pleased to find, could speak the English language,

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

tolerably well. I understand, also, that she can
both read and write it, which she learned to do at
Hudson's Baj, where the Company have a school.
She speaks, likewise, the Cree and Sauteux lan-
guages. She appears to possess natural good
sense, and is far from being deficient, in required
knowledge. * " ' • •

Friday^ January 2, '*^^ The weather,
for several days past, hat '^ecn severely cold.
Yesterday, being the commencement of a new
year, our people, according to a Canadian custom,
which is to get drunk if possible, spent the day
in drinking, and danced in the evening; but
there was neither scratching nor fighting, on this
occasion. . -

Sunday t 4. In the morning, the greater part
of our people, consisting of men, women and chil-
dren, were sent away to pass the remainder of
the winter, about two days' march from this, in
the prairie. They will subsist on the flesh of the
buifaloe, which thev will themselves kill in abund-
anco> During their stay there, they will reside
in tents or lodges, made of the skins of the buffa-
loe, moose or elk. These skins, after hr.ving been
dressed, are sewed together ; and one tent yfiW
contain from ten to twenty five of them. These
tents are erected on poles, and assume the form of
a sugar loaf. Ten or fifteen persons will residd* in

HARMON S JOURNAL.

one of them; for while there, they are either sit-
ting or lying down.

The Indians, who come to this establishment,
are, as has been already observed, Crees and As-
siniboins ; or as some call them, Kinistinoes and
Stone Indians. Both of them are numerous
tribes ; and as they often meet, and some of them
intermarry, their manners and customs are simi-
lar ; but there is no resemblance in their lan-
guages. Both tribes are well furnished with
horses. The Assiniboins, however, are, by far,
the best horsemen; they never go any distance
on foot, and it is generally on horse back, that
they kill their game. ♦'"** '^ '*" ' ''' '-'^' ''''
• They mount their horses, and run down, and
kill the buffaloe, and some other animals, with
bows and arrows, which they find every way as
convenient for this purpose, as lire arms. But the
Crees, when they can procurcSRliem, always make
use of guns. Their clothing consists of leggins of
cloth or dressed Antelope skins, a shirt or frock
of the same materials, and a blanket or dressed
Buffaloe skin, which they wrap round their bodies,
and tie about their waists. To the above they
will often add a cap or bonnet, of the wolf skin,
and shoes for their (eet m^*''' ^ ' ' ^y.

Last evening, I wrote to two fellow travellers
with me from Montreal ; and the letters will be

6§

HAUMON S JOURNAL.

taken to them by the winter express, which
leaves this, tomorrow, and is to pass by the way of
Fortdes Prairies, thence to the Enghsh River, and
thence directly to Athabasca. And, I am inform-
ed, there is an express, which every year leaves
Athabasca, in the month of December, and passes
through the whole country called the orth West,
and in the latter part of March, reach the Soult
St. Maries. Thus the gentlemen who come up
from Montreal, obtain from the interiour, intelli-
gence respecting the transactions of the preceding
summer and fall much earlier than they could
otherwise do. This information, it is importj^nt
that they receive, as soon as possible. This con-
veyance of intelligence, extending^ to, the distan(;e
of nearly three thousand miles, is attended^ .vvith
but a trifling expense to the Company. ? .- —
Thursday, 15. Beautiful weather. On the
eleventh, I accompanied six of our people to the
tent of one of our hunters ; and the day following,
th^y returned with their sledges loaded with
meat ; but I remained, to go along with the
hunter, farther in the prairie. Accordingly, the
next day, I proceeded with him, and saw, in dif-
ferent herds, at least a thousand bufialoes, graz-
ing. They would allow us to come within a few
rods of them before jthey would leave their pla-
ces. At this season, they arc tame, and it is not

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

at all dangerous to go among them. But, in the
fore part of the summer, ^vhich is their rutting sea-
son, it is quite the reverse. Then, if they [)er-
ceive a human being, the males will pursue him,
and if they can overtake, will trample him under
their feet, or pierce their horns through his
body. • i. ;• * '^. . ' ' ^.* . - . .

The male buffaloe, when fat, will weigh from
one thousand, to fifteen hundred pounds, and
the female, from eight hundred, to a thousand.
Their meat is excellent eating; but is not gene-
rally considered so delicious, as that of the moose.

Wednesday, February II. On the 1st inst. ac-
companied by eight of our people, and one of thd
Natives as a guide, I. set otF, with a small assort-
ment of goods, to go and trade with about fifty
families of Crees and Assiniboins. In going to
their camp or village, we were three days, and at
all times, in an open country. After we had en-
camped the first night, there came on a terrible
storm of snow, accompanied by a strong and cold
north wind ; and as we were in an open plain, we
had nothing to shelter us from the violence of the
weather. . In the morning, we were covered with
snow, a foot in depth. Our people, however, soon
harnessed the dogs ; and we proceeded, hoping to
^yarm ourselves, by running. This we found it
difficult to do, as the wind was strong, and directly

'if

t ,'

f,i^

|i tt

Harmon's journal.

in our faces. At the close of the day, after we
had encamped, our guide killed a fat buflfaloe,
which supplied food, both to men and beasts.
While eating it around a large fire, we almost for-
got the suffering which we endured, by the cold of
the preceding night and morning ; and, if we were
not thankful for the blessing bestowed upon us, we
were, at least, glad to enjoy it. After having pass-
ed one or two cold days without eating, there is a
relish in food to which the sons of indolence and
of pleasure, are perfect strangers ; and which they

can purchase only, at the expense of toil and of
hardship, '^"t »■'♦ •ifrt'^s'vAT*^*'*. t .VAjjVft^^Uvvvi -

When we had approached within about a mile
of the camp of the Natives, ten or twelve of their
Chiefs, or most respectable men among them,
came on horseback, to meet, and conduct us to
their dwellings. We arrived at them, through a
crowd of people, who hailed us with a shout of
joy. Immediately after our arrival, the principal
Chief of the village sent his son, to invite me and
my h.terpreter to his tent. As soon as we had en-
tered it, and were seated, the respectable old
Chief caused meat and berries, and the best of
every thing which he had, to be set before us. Be-
fore we had eaten much, we were sent for to an-
other tent, where we received a similar treatment ;
and from this, we were invited to another ; and so

Harmon's journal.

after we
; buffaloe,
id beasts,
ilmost for-
•le cold of
f we were
>on us, we
iving pass-
there is a
ence and
hich they
m1 and of

»ut a mile
e of their
ig them,
ict us to
hrough a

shout of
principal

me and
3 had en-
able old
1 best of

on, till we had been to more than half a dozen.
At all these, we ate a little, and smoked our
pipes; for, my interpreter iiilor ned me, tL^y
would be greatly affronted, and think that we de-
spised them, if we refused to taste of every thing
which was set before us. Hospitality to strangers,
is among the Indian virtues. — During several days
that we remained with these people, we were
treated with more real politeness, than is com-
monly shown to strangers, in the civilized part of

the world. , ji^^j. ^.:;.t; ^ * a^it,* > >;ai -ia-nui
While I was at the camp of the Natives, 1
was invited to attend and see them dance. The
dancers were about thirty in number, and were all
clothed with the skins of the Antelope, dressed,
which were nearly as white as snow ; and upon
their heads they sprinkled a white earth, which
gave them a very genteel appearance. Their
dance was conducted in the following manner. A
man, nearly forty years of age, rose with his tom-
ahawk in his hand, and made, with a very distinct
voice, a long harangue. He recounted all the
noble exploits which he had achieved, in the sev-
eral war-parties with which he had engaged his
enemies ; and he made ment'on of two persons, in
particular, whom he first killed, and then took off
their scalps ; and for each of these, he gave a
blow with his tomahawk against a post, which was

HARAION S JOURNAL.

set up, expressly for that purpost;, near the cen-
ter of the tent. And now the miisick began,
which consisted of tambourines, and the shaking of
bells, accompanied by singing. Soon after, the
man who had made the harangue, began the dance,
with great majesty ; then another arose, and join-
ed him ; and shortly after, another ; and so on, one
after another, until there Avere twelve or fifteen
up, who al! danced around a small fire, that was
in the centre of the tent. While dancing, they
made many savage gestures and shrieks, such as
thcv are in the habit of makinfr, when they encoun-
ter their enemies. In this course ihcy continued,
for nearly an hour, when ihcy took their sweats,
and another party got up, and went through with
the same ceremonies. Their dancing and singing,
however, appeared, to be a succession of the same
things ; and therefore after having remained with
them two or throe hours, I returned to my lodg-
ings ; and how long they continued their amuse-
ment, 1 cannot r.ay, '

In this excursion, we aaw butfaloes in abun-
dance ; and Avhen on a small rise of ground, I think
I may with truth affirm, that there were in view,
grazing on tlie Hurroundirjg plains, at least five
thousand of them. Of these animals, we killed
what wo wanted for our own subsistence, and the
support of our dogs ;; and ithis evening, we return^

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

ed to the i'ort, well pleased with our jaunt, loaded
with furs and provisions, and without having re-
ceived the least affront or the smallest injury from
tlie Natives, notwithstanding most of them became
intoxicated with the spirits, with whici) we suppli-
ed them. V;
- Tuesday, February 17. We have now about
a i'oot and an half of snow on the ground. — Mr.
Monteur, accompanied by two Canadians, arrived,
with letters from our friends, in Fort des Prairies.
— This morning, one of our people killed a buffa-
loc in the Prairie, opposite to the fort; and an-
other came within ten rods of the fort gate, when
the dogs pursued hi a?, and he ran off. ^
^ Thursday^ J 9. This day, I am twenty three
years of age, and iiow rapidly does this space of
time appear to have passed away ! It seems as
if it were but. yesterday, that I was a child. The
truth is, the time tliat we are allowed to remain
in this ileeting world is so short, even if we should
be permitted to reach the utmost boundary of hu-
man life, that a person can scarcely have passed
the ihreshhold of existence, before he must set his
houae in onhr to die. • * - -^
Friday^ 20.. During the lr,st night, we sat up
to deal out spirits to the Indians. One of them has
his own daujL^^liter for a wife, and her mother at the
same time! Incest, however, is a crime, of which

; 1

iIAKlV10x\ S JOURNAL.

■ -i!!

i.'

i^^- f-

f I'.

I ■ V

the Indians of this quarter are not often guilty.
When one of them does commit it, he is regarded
by the rest of his tribe, as void of sense.
■' Saturday, March 14. The greater part of the
snow is now dissolved. On the sixth inst. accom-
panied by eighteen of our people, I left this, to go
to Swan River fort. We had thirty sledges, some
drawn by horses, and some by dogs, which were
loaded with furs and provisions. ^

- Saturday, jipril 4. Swan River Fort. Here
I arrived this afternoon, and have come to pass
the remainder of the spring. While at Alexan-
dria, my time passed agreeably in company with
A. N. M^^Leod, Esq. who is a sensible man, and an
agreeable companion. He appeared desirous of
instructing me in what was most necessary to be
known, respecting the aflfairs of this country ; and
a taste for reading 1 owe, in a considerable degree,
to the influence of his example. These, with many
other favours, which he was pleased to shoW' me,
I shall ever hold in grateful remembrance. — But
now I am comparatively alone, there being no
person here, able to speak a word of English ; and
as I have not been much in the company of those
who speak the French language, I do not as yety
understand it very well. Happily for me, I have
a few books; and in perusing them, I shall pase
most of my leisure moments. . . , . . , ^f .-4 ^.

HARMON S JOURNAI*

* Monday, 6. I have taken a ride on horseback,
to a place where our people are making sugar.
My path led me over a small prairie, and through
a wood, where I saw a great variety of birds, that
were strairyng their tuneful throats, as if to wel-
come the return of another spring; small animals,
also, were running about, or skipping from tree to
tree, and at the same time, were to be seen swans,
bustards, duckc, &c. swimming about in the river
and ponds. All thepe things together, rendered
my ramble beyond expression delightful.

- Friday, 10. Fine pleasant weather. This
afternoon, I took a solitary, yet pleasing walk, to
the ruins of a fort, which was abandoned, a few
years since, by the Hudson Bay people, to whom
it belonged, but who do not now come into this
part of the country. While surveying these ru-
ins, I could not avoid reflecting on the short dura-
tion of every thing in this fleeting and perishing
world. I then went to a spot, where a number
of their people had been interred, far from their
native country, their friends and relations! And
while I was lamenting their sad fate, ray blood
chilled at the thought, that what had happei^ed
to them might, very probably, befal me also.
But my prayer shall ever be, that a merciful God
will, in duo time, restore mc to my friends and re-

s If

1 1

harmok's jouri^al.

lations, in ^-^od health, und with an unblemished
charr;H^;i% •- ■■ • - --" •'• " '

• Snadoijy 19. ^i\ Friday last, there fell nearly
a foot of snow, which, however, was soon dissolv-
ed ; and it caused the river to overflow its banks
to such a distance, that our people who were mak-
ing sugar, were obliged to leave the woods and
to return to the fort. ..-«;• ",'<-. S-»«- ♦i^h*

Tuesday^ 21. All the snow |ias left us ; and
we are again favoured with line weather. The
last night, the ice in this river broke up.

Monday^ 27. It has snowed all day, and has
fallen to the depth of six inches. — I now begin to
feel the want of books, having brought but few
with me, on account of the short time that I ex-
pect to remain here.

Saturday, May 2. It has rained all day,
which is the first time that any has fallen, since
the last autumn. — As \. have but little bufJness
that requires my attention, I employ the incffter
part of my time in reading the bible, and in study-
ing the French language.

Sunday, 10. It has rained constantly, during
three successive days, which has caused the wa-
ter in the river, since yesterday, to rise more than
four (eei. — Yesterday, one of my men went out to
shoot duc'n 3, and lost his way, and was therefore un-
der the necessity of j.assing the night in the woods,

:psi- r-H

5:-fA>?M0«'S JOURNAL.

wiiho'M iJiy covering from the cold ar;d the rain,
which poured down in torrents. This morning, how-
ever, by chance, or rather directed by an all pro-
tecting Providence, he fell upc.5 a small foot path,
which brought him directly to the fort, where he
was not a little pleased to arrive. Experience
only can teach us how to value such a deliver-
a nee.

Wednesday, 13. The late rains have caused
this river to overflow its banks to such an uncom-
mon distance, that when I arose this morning, to
my surprise, I found seven inches of water, on the
first floor of 'he house, whrch is an event that the
oldest person here does not remember before to
have witnessed. We arc obliged to leave the
fort, and to pitch our tents on a small rise of
groundj at no great distance off, where we shall
r. main, until the deluge is abated. - «

Friday, 15. Sent five men with 9. canoe, two
days march up this river, for Mr. M'^Leod and
company, as the face of the country extensively,
lies under water. *

Wednesday, 20. The water has left the fort ;
and with pleasure, we leave our tcnls, to occupy
our former dwellings. This afternoon Mr. M^
Leod, and company, arrived, and arc thus far on
their way to the Grand Poi tage.

Tuesday, 26. Yesterday, our people finished

i^i

■V

JlAUMO^ S .lOUttNAL.

■'JL_!_

makiK^^ our iurs into packs, oi nuicly pounds
weight eacli. Two or throe of these make a load
for a man, to carry across the portages. This
morning, all the hands, destined to this service,
•^mbarked on board of five canoes, for Head-qimr-
ters. To Mr. M<=Leod, I delivered a packet of
letters, to be forwarded to my friends, who reside
at Vcrgcnne^ in the state of Vermont, and tomor-
row, I shiiii set out for Alexandria, where I ex-
pect to pass the ensuing summer, and to superin-
tend the nfifairs of that place and of this, yntii the
next atifumn. .. -tr^.*^,.. t-^

Monday, June 1. Accompanied by two men,
I at rived at Alexandria, this afternoon ; and I here
found six families of Crees, encamped about the
fort. I have with ne one clerk, two interpreters
and five labouring men, also six women and tbir-
t^fu children, belonging ;o oui people, and a num-
ber of women and children beionirirjg to the Na-
tives, whose husbands bav i gone to make war up-
on the Rapid Indian^^ oJ' as they rail themselves,
Paw-is-tick 1-^-ne-wuck. This is a small but brave
tr-'be, who remain a ccnsiderable dist^.nce out in
the large prairies, atid tov/ard the upper part of
the Missouri river. vVe 'iiaU have nearly one hun-
dred mouths to fill, for tLo ^:;reater part of the
summer, out of our store ; but to furnish the
means, we have hired two of the Natives to hunt

Harmon's journal.

for us, during the season ; and moose, elk, &c. are
considerably numerous in this vicinity. We hope,
there/ore, that we shall not want for the means of
subsistence. Buffaloes have now returned several
days' march from this place, into the spacious
prairies ; but this is no serious loss to us, since, if
they were near they would be but indifferent food,
as at this season of the year, they are always lean,
and consequently, rank and tough. '•

^i^Vednesday, 10.^ It is currently reported and
believed, that the Rapid Indians are forming a
war-party, in order to come against the Indians
of this quarter^ whom they consider, and I think
with suflicieni reason, as their enemies. Should
they come this way, they will as probably fall
uptT us m upon the Natives themselves ; for
they say, that we furniuh the Crees and Assiniboins
with what fire arms they want, while they get
but few. I have, therefore, thought it expedient
to direct our people, to bnild block-houses over
the ibrt gates, and to put the bastions in order,
that we may be prepared to defend ourselves, in
case of an attack./ !«»

Sunday^ 14. This afternoon, a number of tho^>
Natives danced in the fort. Their dance was
conducted in the following manner. Two stakes
wore driven into the ground, about twenty feet
apart ; and as one person boat the drum, the oth-

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ors, consisting of men and women, danced round
these stakes. The men had a different step from
that of the women. The latter placed both
feet together, and first moved their heels forward
and then their toes, and thus went slowly round
the stakes. But the men rather hopped than
danced, and therefore went twice round the
stakes, while the women went once. They all
kept exact time with the music, for they have
excellent oars. Indeed, I believe that all their
senses are more acute than those of the white
people. ^ ■/,,

, Tlmrsday^ July 9. This day, there came here an
American, that, when a small child, was taken
from his parents, who then resided in the Illinois
country. He was kidnapped by the Sauteux, with
whom he has resided ever since ; and he speaks no
other language excepting theirs. He is now about
twenty years of » ^e, and is regarded as a chief
among that tribe* He dislikes to hear people
speak to him, respecting his white relations ; and
m every respect exceptmg his colour, he resem-
bles the savages, with whom he resides. He is
said to be an excellent hunter. He remains with
an old woman who, soon after he was taken from
his relations adopted him into her family *, and
they appear to be mutually as fond of each
other, as if they wore actually mother and son. .

Harmon's journal.

•' Tliur^day^ 30. Different kinds of berries are
now ripe, such as strawberries, raspberries,
and what the Canadians call paires, which the
Natives denominate Mi-sas-qui-to-min-uck. The
last, if they are not the same in kind, exactly
resemble, in shape and taste, what in the New
Enirland states are called shad berries. When
they are found in the prairies, they glow on bush-
es, four or five feet high ; but in a thick wood they
often reach to the height of fifteen or twenty feet.
Of this wood, the Natives always make their ar-
rows. These berries, when properly dried by the
sun, have an agreeable taste, and are excellent to
mix with pimican. The Natives generally boil
them in the broihof fat meat ; and this constitutes
one of their most dainty dishes, and is introduced
at all their feasts.

Mr. A. N. M<^Leod has a son here named Al-
exander, who is nearly five years of age, and whose
Mother is of the tribe of the Rapid Indians. In my
leisure time, lam teaching him the rudiments of the
English language. The boy speaks the Sauteux
and Cree fluently, for a child ; and makes him-
self understood tolerably well, in the Assiniboin
Mnd French languages. In short, he is like most
of the children of this country, blessed with a re-
tentive memory, and learns very readily.

We have made about ten tons of hay, to feed

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those ot our horses which we intend shall work,
during the winter season. The others live the
whole year, upon the grass which they find in
the prairies. In the winter, to procure it, they
must scrape away, with their feet, the snow,
which is generally eighteen inches deep, except-
ing on the highest hills, from which the wind,
drives most of it into the valleys. ^'

Thursday, AiLgust 27. All the provision
which we now have in the fort, consists of only
about fifteen pounds of pimican ; and when we
shall be able to add to our supply, God only knows.
All our dependance is on our hunters ; and it is
now a considerable time since they have killed any
thing, though moose and elk are numerous in this
vicinity. ^ . ...

Sunday, 30. Yesterday, thrre of our people
arrived from the Grand Portage, with letters
from Mr. M<=Leod, &c., which inform me, that
the above mentioned people, together with oth-
ers who remained at Swan River fort, were sent
off from head quarters, earlier than usual, with an
assortment of goods, supposing, that we might
need some articles, before the main brigade ar-
rives. , . V *,V . ft^.jr^.'*, I. .--:

Sunday, September 6. This is the third day.
during which it has rained, without the least
cessation.^ — There are five families of Crees, en-

HARMON S JOURNAL.

camped about the fort, who have been continual-
ly drunk, during the last forty eight hours ; but
now they begin to be troublesome, for they have
nothing more to sell, yet they wish to continue
, drinking. ^ •" • •» ^'^

One of ihe Indians, who w&s of the party that
Jast spring went to war, has recently come in.
When he arrived, his face was pairted entirely
black, which I am informed, is always their cus-
tom, when they return from such expeditions.
As he drew nigh to the fort, he began to sing a
war song. He Gtatcs, that his party, the Crees and
Assiniboins, have made great slaughter among
their enemies, the Rapid Indians, and are bring-
ing a number of their women and children home,
for slaves. He was sent forward, as he says, to
inform us of what they consider, glorious news.

Monday^ 7. More of the Indians, who have
been to war, have reached this place, and have
brought several slaves, and a few scalps, with
them. This afternoon, they danced and sung
their war songs. Agreeably to the custom of the
country, I gave them a few trifling articles, not as
a reward for having been to war, but because
they have done us honour, as they think, by dan
cing in our fort. - «

Sunday^ 27. It lias snowed and rained all
day. This afternoon, Mr. M<=Leod and company,

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Harmon's journal.

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returned from tho Grand Portage, and delivered
to me letters from my friends in my native land ;
and I am happy in being informed, that they left
them blessed with good health. Self-banished^
as I am, in this dreary country, and at such a dis-
tance from all I hold dear in this world, nothing
beside, could give me half the satisfaction which*
this intelligence affords. I also received several
letters from gentlemen in different parts of the
widely extended North West Country. -^

Friday, October 2. Moniagne j^iseau, or the
Bird Mountain, In the morning, I left Alexan-
dria, on horse back, and arrived here this evening
where, by permission of Providence, I shall pass
the ensuing winter. I have with me three inter-
preters, six labouring men and two women. The
fort is built on the bank of Swan River, a little
more than fifty miles distant from its entrance in-
to Swan Lake. The Indians who frequent this
establishment are Sauteux, Crees and Mus-ca-goes,
all of whom speak nearly the same language.
Moose and elk are considerably numerous, in this
vicinity ; but buffaloes seldom come thus far, into
the woody country. '* ...'^^ ..a^y^ .*..

Thursday, 29. On the 22nd instant, Mr.
M^Leod, with ten of his people, arrived on horse-
back; and on the day following, I accompanied
them to the lower fort, where I met Mr. William

Harmon's journal.

delivered ^m

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they left J
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ich a dis- H

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Henry, a clerk. Mr. M^Leod has also brought
another clerk into this country, by the name of
Frederick Goedike. This evening, Messrs.
M^Leod, Henry and myself, returned, but left
the people behind, whose horses are loaded with
goods, for this place and Alexandria.
^ Tuesday, JYovember 3. Snow has fallen, to the
depth of three inches, which is the first that we
have had, this fall. = -- .

Thursday, 19. A foot and an half of snow has
fallen.

Wednesday, December 23. Clear and cold. On
the 16th inst. I went to Alexandria, where I pass-
ed several days agreeably, in the company of
Messrs. M*=Leod, Henry, and Goedike. We
have now more snow than we had at any time
the last winter. In consequence of lameness, I
returned on a sledge drawn by dogs.

Friday, 25. This being Christmas day, agree-
ably to the custom of the country, I gave our peo-
ple a dram, and a pint of spirits, each. ^«* '

Monday, 28. Payet, one of my interpreters,
has taken one of the daughters of the Natives for
a wife ; and to her parents, he gave in rum, dry
goods, &c. to the value of two huhJrcd dollars.
No ceremonies attend the formation of such con-
nexions, as I have before remarked, excepting that
the bridegroom, at the time to retire to rest, shows

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HARMON'S JOURNAL.

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his bride where their common lodging place is ;
and they continue to cohabit, as long as both par-
ties choose, but no longer. One thing is secured
by this arrangement, which is by no means always
found in the civilized world, and that is, while per-
sons live together, in a state of wedlock, they will
live in harmony. "^ • ^

Friday, January 1, 1802. This being the first
day of the year, in the morning, I gave the peo-
ple a dram or two, and a pint of rum each, to
drink in the course of the day, which enabled
them to pass it memly, although they had very
little to eat ; for our hunters say they can kill
nothing. One of them will not go out of his tent ;
for he imagines, that the Bad Spirit, as they call
the devil, is watching an opportunity to find him
in the open air, in order to devour him. What
will not imagination do !

Saturday^ 9. Several days since, I sent a num-
ber of my people to Alexandria for meat, as neith-
er of my hunters kill any thing ; though tl^erc is
no scarcity of animals, in this vicinity. But they
have just returned, without any thin>r. They say
that the buffaloes, in consequence of the late mild
weather, have gone a considerable distance, into
the large prairie. We are therefore under the
necessity of subsisting on pounded meat, and dried
chokecherries. This latter article, is little better

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Harmon's journal.

than nothing. When we shall be in a better situ-
ation, God only knows. Hope, however, which
seldom abandons the wretched, denies us not her
comforting aid ; and past experience teaches .us,
that it is possible our circumstances may suddenly
change for the better.

Sunday, 17. Last evening, our people brought
from the tent of our hunter, the meat of a moose,
which lighted up a smile of joy upon our counte-
nances. We were happy to find, that a kind
Providence, instead of abandoning, had favoured
us with one of the richest dainties, that this coun-
try affords. It would be well if our joy was true
gratitude to our kind Benefactor. — There are
twelve persons in the fort ; and yet for the last
fifteen days, we have subsisted on what was scarce-
ly sufficient for two people ! These were cer-
tainly the darkest days that I ever experienced,
in this Oi any other country. . , .,ps*,

Tuesday, ]9. I have taken a walk, accompa-
nied by Payi*, a short distance from the fort,
where we found hazelnuts, still on the bushes,
in such plenty, that a person may easily gather a
bushel in the course of a day. I am told, that
when sheltered from the wind, all of them do not
fall off, until the month of May.

Monday, February I. For several days past,
the weather has been excessively cold ;. and thiis

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has been, as I think, the coldest day that I ever
experienced. In fact, the weather is so severe,
that our hunters dare not venture out of their
tents, although they, as well as ourselves, have lit-
tle to eat. . . .*

Sunday^ 7. During the last three days, we
have subsisted on tallow and dried cherries. This
evening, my men returned from Alexandria, with
their sledges loaded with buffaloe meat ; and the
sight of it, was truly reviving. Had this favour
been withheld from us a few days longer, we must
have all miserably perished by famine. ^-^

Monday^ 8. All the Indians of this place, ex-
cepting my hunters, have gone to pass about a
couple of 'months, as they are accustomed to do,
at this season, on their beloved food, the buffaloe.
„ Friday, 19. At present, thanks to the Giver
of all good, we have a pretty good stock of pro-
visions in store, and therefore expect not again to
want, this season.

Saturday, March 6. I have just returned from
a visit to my friends at Alexandria, where I pass-
ed four days very pleasantly, in conversing in my
mother tongue. This is a satisfaction that no one
knows, excepting those, who have been situated
as I am, wilh a people with whom I cannot speak
fluently. And if I could, it would afford me little
satisfaction to converse with the ignorant Canadi-

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ans around me. All their chat is about horses,
dogs, canoes, women and strong men, who can
fight a good battle. I have, therefore, only one
way left to pass my time rationally, and that is
reading. Happily for me I have a collection of
good books ; and mine will be the fault if 1 do
not derive profit from them. I, also, begin to find
pleasure in the study of French. ; , m ,> r.nu:

Saturday, 20. The greater number of our
Indians have returned from the prairies ; and
as they have brought little with them to trade, I,
of course, give them as little ; for we are at too
great a distance from the civilized world, to make
many gratuities. Yet the Indians were of a differ-
ent opinion ; and at first made use of some unpleas-
ant language. But we did not come to blows, and
are now preparing to retire to rest, nearly as good
friends as the Indians and traders generally are.
With a few exceptions, that friendship is little
more, than their fondness for our property, and
our eagerness to obtain their furs. .:<i • rr i jii,

Wednesday, April 21. The most of the snow
is now dissolved ; and this afternoon the ice in the
river broke up. — All our Indians, who for several
days past encamped near the fort, have now de-
parted, to hunt ihe beaver. While they were
here, they made a feast, at which they danced,
cried, sung and howled, and in a word, made a ter-

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rible, savage noise. Such feasts, the Crees are
accustomed to make, af the return of every spring ;
and sometimes also at other seasons of the year.
By so doing, they say they appease the anger
of the Evil Spirit or devil, and thus prevent
him from doing them harm, to which they consid-
er him as ever inclined. They have, also, certain
places, where they deposit a part of their proper-
ty, such as guns, kettles, bows, arrows, &c. as a
sacrifice to the same Spirit. To the Supreme
JBeing, however, the creator and governor of the
universe, whom thev call Kitch-e-mon-e-too, that
is. Great Spirit, 4hey address their prayers ; yet
they say there is no necessity of paying him any
sacrifice, since he is a good Spirit, and is not dis-
posed to do them injury ; whereas the Evil Spirit
is malicious, and therefore, it is proper that they
should strive to appease his anger. — The above
mentioned feast was made by the Chief of the
band, whose name is Ka-she-we-ske-wate, who for
the long space of foiity eight hours previous to
the entertainment, neither ate nor drank any thing.
At the commencemeut of the feast, every person
put on a grave countenance ; and the Chief went
through a number of ceremonies, with the ut-
most solemnity. After the entertainment was
over, every Indian made a voluntary sacrifice of a

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Harmon's journal.

part of his property to the devil, or as they call
him, Much-e-mon-e-too. ' " >

Sunday y May 2. Accompanied by one of my
interpreiers, I have taken a ride to a place where
I intend building a fort, the ensuing summer. The
animals in this vicinity are moose, red deer, a spe-
cies of the antelope, grey, black, brown, choco-
late coloured and yellowish bears, two spscies of
wolves, wolverines, polecats or skunks, lynxes,
kitts, beavers, otters, fishers, martins, minks, badg-
ers, muskrats and black, silver, cross and red fox-
es. Of fowls, we have swans, geese, bustards,
cranes, cormorants, iocns, snipes, several species
of ducks, water-hens, pigeons, partridges, pheasants,
&c. &:c. Most of the above named fowls, are nu-
merous in spring and autumn ; biit, excepting a few,
they retire to the north in the summer, to brood.
Toward the fall, they return again ; and before
winter sets in, they go to the southward, where
they remain, during a few of the coldest months
of the year. ;.'„. .^ t ,..''.*,;. . >^

Thursday^ 6. This morning, I received a let-
ter from Mr, M^^Leod, who is at Alexandria, in-
forming me- that a few nights since, the Assini-
boins, who are noted thieves, ran away with twenty
two of his horses. Many of this tribe, who reside
in the large prairies, are constantly going about
to steal horses. Those which they find at one

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fort, they will take and sell to the people of ai*-
other fort. Indeed, they steal horses, not unfre-
quently, from their own relations. ^^

Wednesday, 12. It has snowed and rained, dur-
ing the day. — On the 7th inst. I went to Alexan-
dria, to transact business with Mr. M^Leod. Dur-
ing this jaunt, it rained almost constantly; and on
my return, in crossing this river, I drowned my
horse, which cost last fall^ one hundred dollars in
goods, as we value them here. '

Monday, 17. This afternoon, Mr. M<^Leod
and company passed this place, and are on their
way to the Grand Portage. But I am to pass, if
Providence permit, another summer in the inte-
riour, and to have the superintendence of tlie
lower fort, this place and Alexandria, residing
chiefly at the latter place. ' " "'"'■ ' *'

lliesday, 18. All the Indians belonging to
this place, have now come in with the produce of
their hunts, which is abundant ; and to reward
them for their industry, I clothed two of their
Chiefs, and gave a certain quantify of spirits to
them, and to the others. With this they became
intoxicated, and continued so during the last night,
which preventeH our closing our eyes in sleep ;
for it is at all times necessary to watch the mo*-
tions of the Indians, and especially is this the case.

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HARMON^S JOURNAL.

when reason has been dethroned, and passion has
assumed the sole dominion over them, through the
influence of ardent spirits. While in that condi-
tion, they, like other people, often do things which
they will regret in their sober moments.

Sunday, 23. It has snowed all day ; and about
six inches have fallen. I am waiting the arrival
of Mr. Henry to take charge of this post, when
I shall proceed to Alexandria. Two women
brought me a few hazelnuts, which they this day'
gathered from the bushes.

Monday, 31. Alexandria. Here, accompani-
ed by two of my people, I arrived this afternoon.
I ncrossing Swan River, I was so unfortunate as to
drown another horse ; and I was therefore obliged
to perform the remainder of the journey on foot,
with nothing to eat. Here, thanks to the Bestow-
er of all good, I find a tolerable stock of provis-
ions. Mr. Goedike is to pass the summer with
me, also two interpreters, and three labtouring
men, besides several women and children, who
together, form a snug family. '-^ ^'"^■

Wednesday, June 23. On the 16th inst. accom-
panied by two of my people, I set off for Swan
River fort, on horseback. The first night, we
slept at Bird Mountain ; and the day following,
we arrived at the lower fort. From that place, 1
returned in one day, which is a distance of ninety

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miles. I, however, took a fresh horse at the Bird
Mountain. One of my people, who travelled less
rapidly, has arrived this evening, and informed me,
that he drowned his horse, at the same place
where I had before drowned two.

On my return here, those in whose charge I
"had left the place, had nothing to offer me to eat,
excepting boiled parchment skins, which are little
better than nothing, and scarcely deserve the
name of food. I have therefore sent a part of my
people, to endeavour to take some fish out of a
small lake, called by the Natives Devil's Lake,
which lies about ten miles north from this. If
they should not succeed, and our hunters should not
be more fortunate than they have been for some
time past, I know not what will become of us.
All our dependance is on a kind Providence ; and
we cannot but hope for a speedy relief, from our
truly sad condition. ■

Friday, July 2. For six days, after I sent the
people to fish in the above mentioned lake, we
subsisted at the fort on parchment skins, dogs,
herbs and a few small fish, that we took out of the
river opposite to the fort. But now, we obtain
fish in greater plenty.

One of our hunters aas been in, and told me
what he thought to be the cause why he could
not kill. He said that when he went to hunt, he

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HARMON'S .TOURNAL.

generally soon fell upon the track of some animal,
which he followed; but that, as soon as he came
nigh to him, he heard the terrible voice of an
Evil Spirit, that frightened both himself and the
animal. The animal would of course run off, and
the pursuit would etid. — I told the hunter, that I
had a certain powerful medicine ; and provided
he would do with it as I would direct him, it
would not only frighten the Evil Spirit in his
turn, but would also render him at first speechless,
and that shortly after it would cause him to die.
I then took several drug:; and mixed them togeth-
er, that he might not know what they were,
which I wrapped in a piece of white paper, and
tied to the but-end of his gun, and thus arm-
ed him to encounter great or little devils; for
they believe in the existence of different orders.
I told him to go in search of a moose or deef ;
and as soon as h© should hear the voice of the
Evil Spirit, to throw the paper tied to his gun
behind him into the air, and that it would fall in-
to the mouth of the Evil Spirit pursuing himj and
silence and destroy him. I warned him not to
look behind him, lest he should be too much
frightened at the sight of so monstrous a creature,
but to pursue the animal, which he would un-
doubtedly kill. ■> ,v.

The same day, the Indian went to hunting.

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and fell upon the track of an animal, which he
followed, as he has since told me, but a short
distance, before the Evil Spirit, as his custom was,
began to make his horrid cries. The Indian,
however, did with the medicine as I had directed
him, and heard no more of the frightful voice,
but continued following the animal until) ap-
proaching him, he fired, and killed a fine fat red
deer ; and he has since killed several others.
Not only he, but the other Indians place, from
this circumstance, perfect confidence in my medi-
cines. What will not imagination, aided by great
superstition, make a person believe ! It may be
caused, however, at times, to remove the evils of
its own creation.? -. li io hi^B^^^'f'- f^Ai -^ i.^r
f Sunday, 4. Mr. William Henry and company
arrived from the Bird Mountain, and inform us,
that they are destitute of provision there.
They will, therefore, come and pass the re-
mainder of the summer with us for we now
have provisions in plenty..*, oi) otrti fo.tl bnirin ^
Monday, 17. In consequence of the great
increase of our family of late, we are again poorly
supplied with provisions. In order, if possible, to
obtain a supply, I have sent seven of my people
several different ways, in search of the Natives,
\Vho will be able to relieve our wants, should our
men chance to find them. For this is the season

iia.

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

e season

of the year, when almost all wild animals are
the fattest ; and therefore, \* is the best time to
kill them, and make them ihco dry provisions.

Friday, 23. There are at present, in this vi-
cinity, grass-hoppers, in such prodigious numbers,
as 1 never before saw in any place. In fair
weather, between eight and ten o'clock, A. M.
which is the only part of the day when many of
them leave the ground, they are flying in such
numbers, that they obscure the sun, like a light
cloud passing over it. They also devour every
thing before them, leaving scarcely a leaf on the
trees, or a blade of grass on the prairies ; and our
potatoG tops escape not their ravages.

Tuesday, August 3. The most of the mosque-
toes and horse flies, which are so troublesome to
man and beast, have left us, as the nights now be-
gin to be cool.

Yesterday, six families of Crees came to the fort;
and they have been drinking, ever since. An In-
dian had a few wrangling words with a squaw, be-
longing to another band, to whom he gave a slight
beating. At that time, the chief, who was the
friend of the Indian, was passing by ; and he was
so enraged at the abusive language given by
the woman to his friend, that he commenced
boating her on the head with a club, and soon
terminated her life. This morning, th? Indian

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Ilk

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Harmon's journal.

•

women buried her corpse ; and no more notice
is taken of her death, than if a dog had been
killed ; for her relations are at a considerable
distance, in another part of the country. — An In-
dian is not much regarded or feared by his
fellows, unless he has a number of relations to
take part with him in his contests while in life,
or to avenge his death, in case he should be
murdered. This is true among all the Indian
tribes, with which I have been acquainted.

Wednesday, 11. On the ninth instant, a Chief
among the Crees, came to the fort, accompanied
by a number of his relations, who appeared very
desirous that I should take one of his daughters,
to remain with me. I put him off by telling
him, that I could not then accept of a woman,
but probably might, in the fall. He pressed me
however, to allow her to rema!.i with me, at
once, and added, " I am fond of you, and my wish
is to have my daughter with the white people ;
for she will be treated better by them, than by
her own relations." In fact, he almost persuaded
me to keep h«r ; for I was sure that while 1 had
the daughter, I should not only have the father's
furs, but those of all his band. This would be
for the interest of the Company, and would there-
fore, turn to my own advantage, in some meas-
ure J so that a regard to interest, well nigh made

HARMOtf's JOURNAL.

me consent to an act, which would have been un-
wise and improper. But, happily lor me, I es-
caped the snare: ''* '■■ *

Saturday, 28. I have sent Primault, one of my
interpreters, with a letter, about six days' march
from this, where I expect he will meet Mr.
M<^Leod and company, on their way from the
Grand Portage. Two of our people, whom I
sent a few days since into the large prairie, have
just returned with the news, that buffaloes are
numerous, within two days' march from this.
They say, that the Natives, during the two days
that they remained with thekii, killed upwards of
eighty, by driving them into a park, made for that
purpose. ? Ji vh

Sunday, October 3. Yesterday, a little snow
fell, which is the first that we have had this sea-
We now begin to think some disaster has

son.

e me as-

befallen our people, on their way in, as they do
not make their appearance so soon as usual. ?vm *
M^^^MondoAj, 4. One of our men has just arrived
from the Grand Portage, and delivered me a let-
ter from- Mr. M^^Leod, informing me, that he is
going to Athabasca, and is to be succeeded here
by Mr. Hugh M^^Gillies. The canoe in which this
man came, left head-quarters alone, some time
before the main brigade was prepared to leave.
;r Thursday, 21. This afternoon, Mr. Hugh

100

HARMON'S. JOURNAL.

I'M

! ,

M*^Gillle9, accompained by one man on horse
back) arrived, and informs me, that they were
stopped by the ice, fifteen miles below Swan
River fort, whence they will be obliged to bring
the goods, on sledges.

Monday, 25. A large band of Indians have
been here, who were continually drinking, during
the last 'forty eight hours. They have now ta-
ken their departure ; but another band has just
arrived, and, therefore, we must pass another
night without sleep ; for when the Natives are at
the fort, and have the means of purchasing spirits,
they expect to drink both night and day.

n Saturday, 30. Several of our people arrived
from Swan River, and delivered me letters from
my friends in the United States, the perusal of
which, has afibrded me much satisfaction.

Samuel Holmes, a clerk and interpreter, and
a countryman of mine, has left us, to go and join
our opponents, the X. Y. people. *[Soon after-
wards, he left the service of the last mentioned
company, and went to live with the Natives, the
Assiniboins, by whom, a year or two after, he
was killed, while he was on his way from the Red
River to the River Missouri.]

Monday, JYovember 1. I have taken a ride,

* The remarks included in brackets were added at a lat-
6r date.

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HARMON'S JOURNAL.

101

accompanied by my interpreter, down to see the
Hudson Bay people. A Mr. Miller has charge
of the place, and has with him fifteen labouring
men, the greater part of whom, have just return-
ed from Albany fort, which stands at the mouth
of Albany River.

.^ Tuesday, 9. Bird Mountain. Here I am to
pass another winter ; and with me there will be
one interpreter and six labouring men, &c. Thus
I am continually moving from place to place ; and
when my residence will be more stationary, God
only knows. I cannot, however, but look forward,
with pleasing expectation, to the time, when I
hope to be permitted to settle down in some part
of the civilized world. i{>

i^ Friday, ^ 9. I have just returned from the
lower fort, where I have been accompanied with
part of my people, for goods. I find here a band
of Indians, who have been waiting for my return,
in order to procure such articles as they need, to
enable them to make a fall hunt. The Indians in
this quarter have been so long accustomed to use
European goods, that it would be with difficulty
that they could now obtain a livelihood, without
them. Especially do they need fire arms, with
which to kill their game, and axes, kettles, knives,
&c. They have almost lost the use of bows and
arrows; and they would find it nearly impossible

•',4

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i-'Al

102

HARMON S JOURNAL.

to cut their wood with implements, made ol' stone
or bone. ■'*'•'■ ■''■■.' >-• ' ■*' .r -s lv-- ^.-.--j,',.* 4',

Thursday, December 25. Severe cold weath-
er. This day being Christmas, our people have
spent it as usual, in drinking and fighting. — My ed-
ucation has taught me, that the advent of a Sa-
viour, ought to be celebrated in a far different
manner. — Of all people in the world, 1 think the
Canadians, when drunk, are the most disagreea-
ble ; Tor excessive drinking generally causes them
to quarrel and fight, among themselves. Indeed,
I had rather have fifty drunken Indians in the fort,
than five drunken Canadians. . ^ - . - .- «:

Thursday, January 27,1803. I have just return-
ed from Alexandria, where I passed six days, much
to ray satisfaction, in the company of Messrs. H.
M^Gillies, W. Henry and F. Goedike. While
there, I wrote to Messrs. M*=Leod, A. Henry and
.7. Clarke, all of Athabasca, which letters will be
taken to them, by our winter express. ,- :

r Sunday, February 20. Yesterday morning,
one of the Indian women came to the fort and said,
her husband had cut off her nose, and was deter-
mined to kill her, and that she therefore thought
proper to leave him, and go to Alexandria, where
she we'd be out of his reach, at least for the
present. But, after her arrival here, she altered
her mind, and desired my interpreter to nut an

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

103

end lO her life, which he, of course, refused to do.
Then said she, * I will do the business myself, for
I am resolved that I will live with my husband no
longer.' We did not believe, however, that she
would execute this determination, — Soon after, she
went into the woods, a short distance, and laid
down her load of the few things which she had
upon her back, and struck and kindled up a fire, in-
to which she threw the most of her property.
When it was nearly consumed, she took a little
bag of powder and put it into her bosom, and then
set fire to it. The explosion burned a great part
of the hair from her head, injured her face very
much, and rendered her perfectly blind. She now
commenced running about, in order if possible, to
catch her dogs, which she was resolved next to
burn. When we heard her calling out for them,
we went out to see what she was doing; for at
this time, we knew nothing of what had taken
placo. — The spectacle was truly shocking! She
was so disfigured, as scarcely to appear like a hu-
man being. We brought her into the fort, where
she remained very quiet, until we were all in bed
and asleep, when she got up, and went again into
the woods. There she tied a cord about her neck,
and then fastened it to the limb of a tree. But
on throwing herself off, the branch broke, and she
fell into the snow, where she remained until morn-

y, -* •

• 4

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f,f *

I i

ing, when we found her nearly lifeless. On ex-
amining, we iiiscovered that she had run a needle
its full length, into her right ear. We brought
her again to the fort ; but her head is very much
swollen, and her face is perfectly black ; and
whether she will recover, is uncertain. [Several
years afterward, 1 saw her with her old husband ;
and she appeared to enjoy as good health as for-
merly.] '""■"' -- -i '»..»> •mJ; ,*. .,.,..•.„• :.^.,-J,..

Wednesday, May 4. Alexandria. Here, if
Providence permit, I shall pass another summer,
and have with me Mr. F. Goedike, one interpre-
ter an(i several labouring men, besides women and
children. As Mr. Goedike will be absent from
the fort, during the greater part of the summer,
I shall be, in a great measure, alone ; for ignorant
Canadians furnish little society. Happily for me,
I have lifeless friends, my books, that will never
abandon me, until I first neglect them.

Thursday^ June 2. I have set our people to
surround a piece of ground for a garden, with pal-
isades, such as encompass our forts. The X. Y.
people are building a fort, five miles up this
river. ■ " " ' • ' •-

One of our men, a Canadian, gave me his son,
a lad of about twelve years of age, whom I agree,
in the name of the North West Company, to feed
and clothe, until he'becomes able to earn some*

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

105

thing more. His mother is a Sauteux woman.
He is to serve me as cook, &;c.

•UM - ^^jfr-T

4 . 1 » tfcF f^-^*^ t-W

Tuesday, 21. This afternoon, we had an un-
commonly heavy shower of hail and rain, ^n is-

Yesterday, I sent Mr. F. Goedike, accompa-
nied by several of our people, with a small assort-
ment of goods, to remain at some distance from
this, for several weeks. In the absence of my
friend, this is to me, a solitary place. At such
times as this, my thoughts visit the land of my na-
tivity ; and I almost regret having left my friends
and relatives, among whom I might now have been
pleasantly situated, but for a roving disposition.
But Providence, which is conceited in all the af-
fairs of men, has, though unseen, directed my way
into this wilderness ; and it becomes me to bear
up under my circumstances, with resignation, per-
severance and fortitude. I am not forbidden to
hope, that I shall one day enjoy, with increased
satisfaction, the society of those friends, from
whom I have for a season banished myself.

Sunday, 26. I have just returned from an ex-
cursion to the large prairies, in which I was ac-
companied by two of my people ; and in all our
ramble we did not see a single Indian. The most
of them, as is their custom every spring, have gone
to war again. We saw, and ran down and killed,
buffaloes, and also, saw red deers and antelopes,

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106

HARMON S JOURNAL.

bounding aero *he prairies, as well as bears and
wolves, roving i Jt in search of prey. In the
small lakes and ponds, which are to be met with
occasionally, all over the prairies, fowls were in
considerable plenty ; and with our fire arms, we
killed a sufficiency of them, for our daily consump-
tion. Although it rained during the greater part
of the time that we were absent from the fort,
yet the pleasing variety of the objects which were
presented to our view, made our ride very agree-
able. One night, we slept at the same place
where, a few days before, a party of the Rapid
Indian warriors had encamped. They were prob-
ably in search of their enemies, the Crees and As-
siniboins ; and it was happy for us that we did not
meet them, for they would undoubtedly have
massacred us, as they consider us as enemies, for
furnishing their opponents with tire arms. ^ --'•
Monday^ August 8. We have now thirty peo-
ple in the fort, and have not a supply of provisions
for two days. Our hunters, owing to a bad dream,
or some other superstitious notion, think that
they cannot kill, and therefore make no attempt,
notwithstanding animals arc numerous. In the
civilized parts of the world, when provisions are
scarce in one place, they can generally be obtain-
ed from some other place, in the vicinity. But
the case is otherwise with us. When destitute,

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Harmon's journal.

107

we must wait until Providence sends us a supply ;
and we sometimes think it rather tardy in com-

Thursday, 18. An Indian has just arrived, who ,
brings the intelHgence, that forty lodges of Crees
and Assiniboins, who the last spring, in company
with forty lodges of other tribes, set out on a war
party, are returning home. They separated at
Battle River from their allies, who, the messenger
says, crossed that river, to go and make peace
with their enemies, the Rapid and Black-feet In-
dians. The tribes last mentioned, inhabit the
country lying along the foot of the Rocky Moun-
tain, between the Sisiscatchwin and Missouri Riv-
ers. Both parties begin to be weary of such
bloody wars, as have long been carried on between
them, and are much disposed to patch up a peace,
on almost any terms. Thus do ruinous wars, wag-
ed by restless and ambitious people, in civilized
and savage countries, lay waste and destroy the
comforts of mankind. i

Sunday, October 16. This afternoon there fell
a little snow, which is the first we have had, this
fall.

It is now several days since the X. Y. people
arrived from the Grand Portage ; but they give
us no news of Mr. McGillies and his company;
neither would they, were their condition ever so

108

HARMON 8 JOURNAL.

bad. Neither company will convey to the other
the least intelligence, that at all concerns their af-
fairs in this country. The North West Company
look upon the X. Y. Company as encroachers upon
their territories ; and, I think, with some reason,
since the former company first led the way into
this savage country ; while the latter people think,
that the former have no more right to trade in this
part of the world, than themselves. This jarring
of interests, keeps up continual misunderstandings,
and occasions frequent broils between the contend-
ing parties ; and to such a height has their enmity
risen, that it has, in several instances, occasioned
blood shed. But here the murderer escapes with-
out punishment ; for the civil law does not extend
its protection, so far into the wilderness. I under-
stand, however, that measures are in contempla-
tion in England, which will remedy this evil. If
something should not be done soon, I fear many of
us may lose our lives! ?»*.*.

Wednesday, 19. About six inches of snow have
fallen. Mr. M' Gillies and company arrived from
the Grand Portage, and delivered me letters from
my friends in the United States ; and I rejoiced to
hear that they were in health and prosperity.

Saturday, 22. This afternoon, one of our men^
an Iroquois, died ; and it is thought the founda-
tion was laid for his death, by too great an exer-

Harmon's journal.

109

•ur men.

tion of his strength at the portages, on his way in-
to the country. The death of our people is
not unfrequently occasioned by this circumstance.
Sunday^ JVovember 6. On the 28th ult. we sent
eight of our men, on horseback, into the plains,
to look for buffaloes ; and they returned this even-
ing, with their hoises loaded with the flesh of
those animals. They say that they are still three
days' march from this. '^ ^ •'■ * • tw

Tuesday, December 27. Messrs. Henry and
Goedike, my companions and friends, are both ab-
sent, on excursions into two different parts of the
country. I sensibly feel the loss of theii society,
and pass, occasionally, a solitary hour, which would
glide away imperceptibly, in their company.
When they are absent, I spend the greater part
of my time in reading and writing. Now and then
I take a ride on horseback, in the neighbourhood
of the fort, and occasionally I visit our neighbours,
drawn in a cariol by horses, if the snow is light,
or by dogs, if it is deep. This afternoon, I ac-
companied Mr. M^^Gillies, to pay a visit to our
X. Y. neighbours.

. Wednesday, February 22, 1804. Lac La Peche,
or Fishing Lake. This lies about two day's march
into the large plains, west from Alexandria, w^cE
place I left on the 15th ultimo, accompanied by
twelve of our people. I have come here to

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HARMON S JOURNAL.

>:.'Wf»V -

pass the winter, by the side of the X. Y. people.
For some time after our arrival, we subsisted on
rose buds, a kind of food neither very palatable
nor nourishing, which we gathered in the fields.
They were better than nothing, since they would
just support life. When we should procure any
thing better, I knew not, as the buflfaloes at that
time, in consequence of the mild weath(}r, were a
great distance, out in the large plains, and my
hunters could find neither moose nor d(;er. We
hoped, however, that a merciful God would not
fiaSer us to starve ; and that hope has not been
disappointed, for we have now provisions in
abundance, for which we endeavour to be thank-
ful. '«:•; I rr f?r>:>, :,^f*V■^.>.*]^^^v>^^ai^ <.||^ Wi** i'fc5»^--- .-

On the llth instant, I took one of my interpre-
ters and ten labouring men with me, and proceed-
ed several days' march into the wilderness, Tvhere
we found a camp of upwards of thirty lodges of
Crees and Assiniboins, of whom we made a good
purchase of furs and provisions. They were en-
camped on the summit of a hill, whfence we had an
extensive view of the surrounding country, which
was low and level. Not a tree could ha seen, as far
as the eye could extend ', and thousands of buffa-
loes were to be seen grazing, in dilferent parts of
the plain. In order to kill them, the Natives in
large bands, mount their horses, rjn them down

HARMOli S JOURNAL.

Ill

and shoot, with their bows ami arrows, what num-
ber they please, or drive them into parks and kill
them at their leisure. In fact, those Indians,
who reside in the large plains or prairies, are the
most independent, and appear to be the most con-
tented and happy people upon the face of the
earth. They subsist upon the flesh of the buffa-
loe, and of the skins of that animal they make
the greatest part of their clothing, which is both
warm and convenient. Their tents and beds are
also made of the skins of the same animal.
'? The Grecs and Assiniboins procure their
livelihood with so much ease, that they have but
little to confine them at home. They therefore
employ much of their time, in waging war with
their neighbours. "*t>^?^^^

Thursday, March 1. Es-qui-un-a-wach-a, or
the last Mountain, or rather Hill ; for there are
no mountains in this part of the country. Here I
arrived this evening, having left Lac La Peche on
the 28th ultimo, in company with my interpreter
and seven men. The men, I ordered to encamp
at a short distance from this, and to join me early
tomorrow morning ; as it is more convenient and
safe, especially when we are not in our forts,
to give the Indians spirits to drink in the day time,
than in the night. On our arrival, we were invit-
ed to the tents of several of the principal Indians,

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?■;' ,

to eat and smoke our pipes. — Indians show great
hospitality to strangers, before they have been
long acquainted with civilized people, after which,
they adopt many of their customs ; but they are
by no means always gainers, by the exchange.

Monday^ 6. On the 2nd, the remainder of
our people arrived, and soon after, I commenced
dealing out spirits to the Natives ; and they con-
tinued to drink during all that day and the follow-
ing night. We were, therefore, prevented from
resigning ourselves to sleep. For though the In-
dians are naturally well disposed toward the
white people, and seldom begin a quarrel with us,
and will even receive many insults, before they
attempt to defend themselves; yet when drunk,
they often behave like mad men or devils, and
need to be narrowly watched.

This morning, I sent six of my people to the
fort with sledges loaded with furs and provisions, in
order to obtain another supply of goods, to en-
able us to go and trade with another large Land
of Indians, who are about two days' march from
this, into the plains.

"^ Tuesday^ 6. JSorth side of the Great DeviVs Lake,
or as the Natives call it, Much-e-matire-to Sd-ky-e-
gun. As I had nothing of importance to attend to,
while our people would bo absent in their trip to
and from the fort, and was desirous of" seeing my

HARMON S JOURNAL.

113

friend Henrjr, who, I understood, was about half a
days' march from where I was the last night, I
therefore, set oif this morning, accompanied by an
Indian lad who serves as a guide, with the inten-
tion of visiting this place. After walking all day,
without finding either wood or water, and but a
few inches of snow, just as the sun was descending
below the horizon, we thought that we descried
a small grove, at a considerable distance, directly
before us. So long, therefore, as the light re-
mained, we directed our course to that object;
but as soon as the day light failed, we had noth-
ing by which to guide ourselves, excepting the
stars, which, however, answered very > ell, until
even their faint twinkling was utterly obscured by
clouds, and we were inveloped in total darkness.
In this forlorn condition, we thought it best to
continue bur march as well as we could ; for we
were unwilling to lie down, with little or nothing
with which to cover us, and keep ourselves from
freezing. There was no wood, with which we
could make a fire, nor buffaloe dung, which often
serves as fuel, when travelling about in those
plains. Neither could we find water to drink ;
and without fire, we could not melt the snow, for
this purpose. We suffered mucli for want of wa-
ter, as we had nothing to eat but very dry provis-
ions, which greatly excited thirst.^ — To be tlepriv-

15 M

114

HARMON S JOURNAL.

ed of drink for one day, is more distressing than to
\ be destitute of food for two. — It would not have
^ been safe for us to encamp, without a fire ; for
we should have been continually exposed to be
trodden upon by the large herds of buffaloes, that
are perpetually roving about in the plains, or to
be devoured by the wolves, which ever follow the
buffaloe. We therefore continued travelling, un-
certain whither we were going, until at length,
the dogs that drew my sledge, suddenly passed
by us, as if they saw some uncommon object, di-
rectly before us. We did not attempt to impede
their motion, but followed them as fast as we
could, until they brought us to the place where
we now are. — It is almost incredible that my dogs
should have smelt this camp at such a dis-
tance ; for we walked vigorously no less than
four hours after they passed us, before we arrived
here.

If: We are happy in finding fifteen tents of Crees
and Assiniboins, who want for none of the dainties
of this country • and I meet, as usual, with a very
hospitable reception. The mistress of the tent
where I am, unharnessed my dogs, ana put my
sledge, &c., into a safe place. She was then
proceeding to give food to my dogs, which
labour, I offered to do myself; but she told
me to remain quiet and smoke my pipe, for

Harmon's journal,

]15

she added, " they shall be taken good care of,
and will be as safe in my hands, as they would be
were they in your own." — Notwithstanding it walP^
near midnight when I arrived, yet at that late ^
hour, the most of the Indians rose, and many of
them invited me to their tents, to eat a few
mouthfuls, and to smoke the sociable pipe.

But now, all those necessary ceremonies are
over; and I am happy in being able to lay my-
self down on buffaloe robes, by the side of a
warm fire, expecting to obtain sweet and refresh-
ing repose, which nature requires, after a day's
march so fatiguing. If 1 was ever thankful for ;
any of God's favours, it is, to find myself here
among friends, and in comfortable circumst^xnces,
when, a few hours before, I expected to wander
with weariness, anxiety and danger, during the
whole night, in the open plain.

Wednesday, 7. Canadian's Camp. This
place is so called from the fact, that a niimber
of our people have passed the greater part of
the winter here. As there is a good foot path
from the place where I slept the last night to
this place, I left my young guide, and came here
alone. Frequently on the way, I met Indians,
who are going to join those at the Devil's Lake.
I came here in the pleasing expectation of seeing
my friend, Henry ; but I am disappointed. Yes-

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116

Harmon's journal.

■MM^^

*l.-:\

terday morning, he set out for Alexandria. I
hope to have the satisfaction, however, of soon
^Jtoeeting him at the fort. — I here find six Canadians
rith their families, who have passed the winter
in this vicinity, and have subsisted upon the flesh
of the buffaloe, which animals are found in
plenty. The people appear to be happy in
their situation. Indeed, a Canadian, with his
belly full of fat meat, is never otherwise. *

* Friday, 9. JVorth side of DeviVs Lake. In
the morning, I left the Canadian's Camp, and this
afternoon reached this place, where I found my
young guide, waiting my return. He is the son of
a chief, among the Crees and Assiniboins. His
grandfather was Monsieur Florimeaux, a French-
man, who passed a number of years in the Indian
country. When he went to Canada, he took his
son, the father of my youngguide, along with him,
as far as Quebec, intending to send him to France.
But the lad, who was then twelve or thirteen
years old, did not like to leave his native country.
After remaining in Canada for some time, there-
fore, he deserted and returned to this part of the
world, where he, in time, became a famous war-
rior, and at length, a chief. He is much respect-
ed and beloved by his relatives, and is revered by
his own family. As a husband he is affectionate,
and as a father he is kind. It was perhaps fortu"

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117

nate for him that he did not go to France ; for, I
am persuaded he could not have lived more
happily and at ease, in any part of the world, than
in this independent country, which is abundantly
supplied with all of the necessaries, and many of
the luxuries of life. ^,^^

n Saturday, 10. In the middle of an extensive
plain. Early in the morning, accompanied by my
young guide, I left our last night's lodgings, to go
to the place where I expect to find my people,
which is about two days' march further into the
great plain, than where I separated from my inter-
preter, on the 6th inst. After walking all day^
without finding either wood or water, at eight
o'clock at night, we have concluded to lay our-
selves down, in order if possible, to get a little rest. |
In the day time, the snow melted a little ; but in
the evening it has frozen hard, and our feet and
our legs, as high as our knees, are so much cover-
ed with ice, that we cannot take of our shoes ; and
having nothing with which to make a fire, in order
to thaw them, we must pass the night with them
on. A more serious evil is, the risk me must run

of being killed by wild beasts. - • .^ -

Sunday, 1 1. Ca-ta-buy-se-pu, or the River that
calls. This stream is so named by the supersti-
tious Natives, who imagine that a spirit is constant-
ly going up or down it ; and they say that they

f- ' •. i

118

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I. ' ' «

«♦.

often hear its voice distinctly, which resembles the
cry of a human being. The last night was so un-

^^leasant to me, that I could not sleep, arising in
part from the constant fear which I was in, of be-
ing torn in pieces before the morning, by wild
beasts. Despondency to a drqrree took possession
of my spirit. But the light of the morning dissi-
pated my fears, and restored to my mind, its usu-
al cheerfulness. As soon as the light of day ap-
peared, we left the place where we had lain, not
a little pleased, that the wild beasts had not fall-
en upon us. It has snowed and rained all day. —

^f^ere I find my interpreter, and eighty tents, or
nearly two hundred men, with their families. —
Along the banks of this rivulet, there is a little
timber, consisting principally of the inferiour spe-
cies of the maple ; but no where else, is there
even a shrub to be seen. The surrounding coun-
try is a barren plain, where nothing grows except-
ing grass, which rises from six to eight inches in
height, and furnishes food for the buffaloe.
4i Here again, as usual, I meet with a kind re-
ception. These Indians seldom come thus far
into the plains, as the part of the country where
we now are, belongs to the Rapid Indians. A
white man was never before known, to penetrate
so I ar. /.','.« v* ^p«*'*\' n •'>ff

Wedmsday, 14. Last evening my people re-

t"1

Harmon's journal.

119

turned from the fort ; and as I now had spir-
its for the Natives, they, of course, drank during
the whole night. Being so numerous, they made >
a terrible noise. They stole a small keg of spir-
its from us, and one of them attempted to stab me.
The knife went through my clothes, and just graz-
ed the skin of my body. To day 1 spoke to the
Indian who made this attempt, and he cried like a
child, and said, he had nearly killed his father,
meaning me, and asked me why I did not tie him,
when he had lost the use of his reason. — My peo-
ple inform me that there is little or no snow, for
three days' march from this ; but that after that,
there is an abundance, all the way to the fort. .^

Friday, 16. About twelve o'clock, we left the
Indians' camp ; but being heavily loaded, consider-
ing there is no snow and our property is drawn by
dogs on sledges, we made slow progress. After
we had encamped, we sent our dogs, which are
twenty two in number, after the buffaloe ; and
they soon stopped one of them, when one of our
party went and killed him with an axe, for we
have not a gun with us. It is, however, impru-
dent for us to venture thus far, without fire arms ,;
for every white man, when in this savage country,
ought at all times to be well armed. Then he
need be under little apprehension of an attack j^
for Indians, when gober, are not inclined to hazard

120

Harmon's journal.

their lives, and when they apprehend danger from
quarrelling, will remain quiet and peaceable.
^siH Saturday^ i7. JYorth West end of DevWs Lake.
The weather is extremely mild, for the season.
The surrounding country is all on fire ; but happi-
ly for us, we are encamped in a swampy place.
When the fire passes over the plains, which cir-
cumstance happens almost yearly, but generally
later than this, great numbers of horses and buffa-
loes are destroyed ; for those animals when sur-
rounded by fire, will stand perfectly still, until they
are burned to death. — -This evening, we killed an-
other buffaloe, in the same manner as we killed
one, the last evening. - .m^.;

' Sunday, 18. The weather is still mild, and we
see many grass-hoppers, which appear unusually
early in the season. As I found that we were
' coming on too slowly with our heavy loads, about
twelve o'clock, I left our property in charge of
three of my people, and am going to the fort with
the others, for horses to come for it.

This afternoon we met several of the X. Y.
people, who were in search of Indians ; but from
the information they received from us, they
thought them at too great a distance, and they
are, therefore, accompanying us to the fort. —
3.he same success has attended us this evening,
which we met with the two preceding days, in re-

Harmon's journal.

121

gard to supplying ourselves with food. Indeed, in
these plains, where bufTaloes are numerous, it is
not customary, nor is it needful for people who are
travelling, to burden themselves with provisions ;
for if thej have fire arms, they can always kill a
sufficiency for the day. This renders travelling
cheap and convenient, nrsf ttj f>^ ! '.^^^1

•I* Thursday^ 22. Lac la Peche. Here tve have
arrived, and I am happy in reaching a place, where
I can take a little repose, after so long and fatig-
uing a jaunt. Yet it has been in many respects,
both pleasant and profitable. The country which
I travelled over was beautifully situated, and over-
spread with buffaloes, and various other kinds of
animals, as well as many other delightful objects,
which in succession presented themselves to our
view. These things made the day glide away al-
most imperceptibly. But there were times, when
my situation was far from being agreeable ; they,
however, soon passed away, and we all have abun-
dant reason to render thanks to a kind Providence,
for his protection, and for our safe return to our
home and our families. ■'* "* ' ' '

At three different times, while performing the
tour above described, I was in great danger of
losing my life, by the evil machinations of the Na-
tives. One escape has been already mentioned,
when one of them attempted to stab me. While

122

HARMON 8 JOURNAL.

id jj

I was dealing out spirits to the Savages, at the last
mountain, on the night of the 5th inst. an Indian,
who was inuch intoxicated, told me, that I should
never see another sun arise ; and he, unquestiona-
bly, intended to kill me. The night following, af-
ter I arrived at the north side of the Devil's Lake,
I was well received by the greater part of the Na-
tives there ; but as I have «ince been informed,
one of them had resolved to take my life. And
yet, this villain invited me to his tent, and I visited
it, without suspicion.' He was prevented from
executing his purpose by my host, who was ac-
quainted with his purpose, and told him that he
must first despatch him ; for, he added, ' Fitch-e-
mo-cum-mon' (that is Big Kife, which is the name
that they give me,) ' is my brother, and iias taken
up his lodging with me, and it therefore becomes
me to defend him and his property.' No Indian
will suffer a stranger, if he be able to defend him,
to be injured, while in his tent, and under his pro-
tection.' Therefore, he who had intended to
massacre me, thought it best to remain quiet.
This hostile Indian had nothing against me, but that
I was a friend to a person who he considered had
injured him ; and as this person was at a great dis-
tance, and therefore beyond his reach, he was re-
solved to avenge the affront upon me. It is the
custom of all the Savages, not to be very particu-

Harmon's journal.

123

lar on whom the punishment of an offence falls,
whether the guilty person, or a relation or friend
of this person. The first of these whom he hap-
pens to meet, becomes the object of his ven-
geance ; and then his wrath is appeased, and he will
not even lift his hand against the person who has
offended him. '^ *^-^'

^^ Saturday, 24. Yesterday, Mr. F. Gocdike ar-
rived from Alexandria, and delivered me a letter
from Mr. M'^Gillies, requesting me to abandon Lac
la Pfeche, and proceed, with ail my people, to Alex-
andria. In the fore part of the day, we all left
the former place. There is a woman with us, be-
longing to one of our men, who has walked the
whole day, in the snow and water, and who, this
evening, gave birth to a son.
^ . Tuesday, 27. Alexandria. Here we arrived
this afternoon. The woman who, on the 24th. inst.
was delivered of a child, took it on her shoulders
the day following, and continued her march, as
though nothing unusual had occurred ! It is a
very happy circumstance, that the women of this
country are blessed with such strong constitutions,
as they would otherwise be utterly unable to en-
dure the hardships to which they are often expos-
ed, and particularly in child-birth. ■ ^^j r-^r-^ /Wf-rt
-i Monday, April 9. Yesterday, the ice in this
river broke up ; and to day, we sent off four mea

^'^■-

124

HARMON S JOURNAL.

is ,■' '

>'*(
%

jv, ; i

'^ .

m a boat, loaded with pimican, to be transported
as far as the entrance of Winipick River. — The
country all around us, is on fire. z...-. ,a.^, + -.^

Sunday, 29. Yesterday, the greater part of
our people set out for Swan River ; and to day,
Mr. ]Vr Gillies, and the most of those who were
left, have departed for the New Fort, which is
distant about forty five miles, to the north west
from the former general rendezvous, the Grand
Portage, which the Americans hcUY« obliged us to
abandon. * ' ' ^.

It i» thought necessary that I should pass an-
other summer at this place ; but I am happy in
having with me my friends Henry and Goedike.
There are here also one interpreter and several
labouring men, besides women and children. We
are preparing a piece of ground for a garden, the
culti.vation of which, will be an amusement ; and
the produce of it, we hope, will add to our com-
forts. Mr. Goedike plays the violin, and will occa-
sionally cheer our spirits, with an air. But the
most of our leisure time, which is at least five
sixths of the whole, will be spent in reading, and
in meditating and conversing upon what we read.
How valuable is the art, which multiplies books, '
with great facility, and at a moderate expense.
Without, thera the wheels of time would dfag
heavily, in this wilderness. » Urn

ti - 4|t<j>

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125

Tuesday, May 22. The seeds which we put
into the ground on the 10th inst. have sprung up,
and grow remarkablj well.- " ' " i^."

"^Tuesday, 29. During the last forty eight
hours, it has rained without cessation ; and I think
1 never witnessed so great a fall of water, within
the same space of time. The river has overflow-
ed its banks.^ to £i much greater distance than is
common ; and our garden, which is not far from it,
now lies under water. ••' •*! -. - -—

Thursday, 31. In the morning, Mr. Goedike,
Collin, my interpreter, a young lad and myself, set
off for the purpose of paying a visit to our X. Y.
neighbours. On leaving the fort, we had the river
to croso, which, in consequence of the late rains, is
about sixty rods broad. Our only means of cross-
ing it was a canoe, made of the skins of buflaloes,
which, on account of the length of time that it
had been in the water, began to be rotten. Be-
fore we reached the other side of the river, the
canoe was nearly half filled with water. We
drew it on shore, mounted our horses, visited our
neighbours, and returned to the place where we
had left our canoe, at about three o'clock P. M.
Having repaired it a little, we embarked, for the
purpose of returning to the fort. iVe soon per-
ceived that the water came into the canoe very
fast ; and we continued paddling, in hope of reach-

126

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

ing the opposite shore, before it would fill. . We
were, however, sadly disappointed ; for it became
full, when we had gone about one third of the dis-
tance ; but it did not immediately overset. The
water, in that place, was about five feet deep ;
but the current was strong, and it soon carried us
to a place where we could not reach the bottom,
and the canoe overset. We all clung to it and,
thus drifted a considerable distance, until the ca-
noe was, at length, stopped by a few willows,
whose tops rose above the water. Here I had a
moment, in which 1 could reflect on our truly de-
plorable condition, and direct my thoughts to the
means of relief. My first object was, if possible,
to gain the shore, in order to free myself from my
clothes, which I could not do where I then was.
But my great coat, a heavy poniard, boots, &c.
rendered it very difficult for me to swim ; and I
had become so torpid, in consequence of having
been so long in the cold water, that before I had
proceeded one third of the way to the shore, 1
sunk, but soon rose again, to the surface of the
water. I then exerted myself to the utmost;
but, notwithstanding, soon sunk a second time, i
now considered that I must inevitably drown ;
the objects of the world retired from my view,
and my mind was intent only upon approaching
death ; yet I was not afruid to meet ray dissolu-

'*^^si

Harmon's journal.

127

tion.* I however made a few struggles more, which
happily took me to a small tree that stood on what is
usually the bank of the river, but which is now some
rods distant from dry land, I remained there for
sometime, to recover strength, and at length pro-
ceeded to the shore ; and as soon as I had gained
it, my mind rose in ardent gratitude to my gra-
cious Preserver and deliverer, who had snatched
me from the very jaws of death ! / was now safe
on shore ; but the condition of my unfortunate
companions, was far different. They had still
hold of the canoe in the middle of the river, and
by struggling were just able to keep themselves
from sinking. We had no other craft, with which
to go upon the water, nor could any of our people
swim, who were standing on the shore, the mel-
ancholly spectators of this scene of distress. I
therefore tooJ<. off my clothes, and threw myself,
a second time, into the water, in order, if possible,
to afford some aid to my companions. When I
had reached the place where they were, I direct-
ed the boy, to take hold of the hair of my head,
and I took him to a staddle, at no great distance,

) ■ * For at that time, 1 wa« if norant of my lost condition by
nature, and of the necessity of being clothed in a better righ-
teousnesB than my own, to prepare me to appear with safety
before a holy God, in judgment. Mfi -t ',-**. »^

128

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1 Hki f

and directed him to lay fast hold of it, by which
means he would be able to keep the greater part
of his body above water. I then returned to the
canoe, and took Collin to a similar place. Mr.
Goedike had alone proceeded to a small staddle,
and would have reached the shore, had not
the cramp seized him in one of his legs. I next
tried to take the canoe ashore, but could
not alone effect it. I therefore, swam to the op-
posite shore, caught a horse and mounted him,
and made him swim to the canoe, at one end of
which I tied a cord, and taking the other end in
my teeth and hands, after drifting a considerable
distance, I reached the land. After repairing the
canoe a little, I proceeded to my three wretched
fellow creatures, who had, by this time, become
nearly lifeless, having been in the water at least
two hours. By the aid of a kind Providence,
however, they at last safely reached the shore ;
and so deeply were they affected with their un-
expected escape, that they prostrated them-
selves to the earth, in an act of thanksgiving, to
their great and merciful Deliverer. ."♦' J**'*^ !«*•
"^ Sunday, July 1. We now begin to have straw-
berries, and the prospect is, that they will be
abundant. - ■ - -■ < ■ • . -»- ,

Tuesday, 17. On the 8th instant, some In-
dians ran away with three of our horses ; and on

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

1S9

!<■■ ilTJH«i»Jl

the following morning, Mr. Goedike and myself
mounted two others, to pursue the thieves. We
followed them for two days, and then, ascer-
taining that they were so far in advance of us,
and travelled so fast, that it would be impossible
to overtake them, before thoy would reach their
camp, which is six or seven days' march from this,
we ceased following them. We di«"?cted our
course another way, for the piirpose of finding
buffaloe, but without success. We, however, kill-
ed as many fowls, in the small lakes, as we need-
ed for daily consumpt'on ; and this evening re-
turned to the fort, having had on the whole a
pleasant ride. :,«»- ..i - .. ^>.- ^ * . .,^ .^..,^^.,v.- .v*r-

We have had a frost, so hard, that it has in-
jured many things in our garden. *i*^ |.v«i^.tt»^•v

Wednesday, 25. An Indian has arrived here
with six horses, who states, that he came directly
from the territory of the Black feet Indians. He
brings the intelligence, that this tribe have con-
cluded a peace with the Crees and Assiniboins;
and that forty tents of the latter tribes, who went
into that quarter, two years since, are on their
way home, and will reach this pl^oe before the
commencement of winter. "•^'

Saturday, September I. This afternoon, Mr.
Ferguson and company arrived, from fort Dau-
phin, bringing the intelligence, that all the Indians

Nil

130

HARMON S JOURNAL.

t< 1 » i '

jiv

'If ' t.

i *!,v

ivho are accustomed to remain, in that vicinity,
have now gone to the Great Winipick lake. iHfiM-
•■! Thursday, October 4. This afternoon, Mr.
Francis la Rocque arrived, from Montagne a la
Basse, which lies about five days' march from this,
down the river. He brought me letters from
several gentle "len in this country, one of which is
from Mr. Charles Cbaboillez, who informs me that
this place will be supplied with goods, this season,
by the way of the Red River, of which depart-
ment he has the superintendence. As I am to
pass the winter here, he desires me to accompa-
ny Mr. La Rocque, down to Montagne a la Basse,
and receive such goods as will be necessary for
the Indians at this post, ^^i * j>^ t*'<^UM^*/</

Friday, 26. Agreeably to the instructions of
Mr. Cbaboillez, in company with Mr. La Rocque,
and an Indian, who served as guide, I set out on
the 6th instant, for Montagne a la Basse. Our
course was nearly south, over a plain country ;
and on the 9th, we reached Riviere qui Apelle,
where the North West and X. Y. companies
have each a fort, where we tarried all night, with
Monsieur Poitras, who has charge of that post.
The next morning, we continued our march, which
was always in beautiful plains, until the 11th,
when we arrived at the place of our destination.
There I found Mr. Cbaboillez, C. M^Kenzie, &c.

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HARMON'S JOURNAL.

131

The fort is well built, and beautifully situated, on
a very high bank of the Red River; and over-
looks the country round to a great extent, whicb
is a perfect plain. There can be seen, at almost
all seasons of the year, from the fort gate, as I
am informed, buffaloes grazing, or antelopes
bounding over the extensive plains, which cannot
fail to render the situation highly pleasant. I spent
my time there very pleasantly, during eight days,
in company with the gentlemen above mentioned.
At times, we would mount our horses, and ride
out into the plains, and frequently try the speed
of our beasts. On the 19th, I left that enchanting
abode, in company with Messrs. Chaboillez,
M^Kenzie, &c., and the day following, arrived
at Riviere qui Apelle, where we found the peo-
ple, waiting our arrival. They ^ame here by
water ; but at this season, canoes go up no fur-
ther, on account of the shallowness of the river.
The goods intended for Alexandria, therefore,
must be taken from this on horse back. Accord-
ingly, we delivered out to the people such articles
as we thought necessary, and sent them oflf ; and
the day following, Mr. Chaboillez returned to
Montagne a la Basse, and Mr. M^Kenzie and my-
self proceeded to Alexandria, where we arrived
this afternoon, after having made a pleasant jaunt
of twenty one days., -^A,, <|jm' !»«ii'»-oi .'•

I. \

•? i

.*;t

Ii.i.i

132

Harmon's journal..

fi I .r S i

! \

a Here I shall pass the winter, having with me
Mr. Goedike, two interpreters, twenty labouring
men^ fourteen women and sixteen children.

Saturday, JVovemher 24. Some people have
just arrived from Montagne a la Basse, with a
letter from Mr. Chaboillez, who informs me, that
two Captains, Clarke and Lewis, with one hund-
red and eighty soldiers, have arrived at the Man-
dan Village on the Missouri River, which place
is situated about three days' march distant from
the residence of Mr. Chaboillez. They have in-
vited Mr. Chaboillez to visit them. It is said,
that on their arrival, they hoisted the American
flag, and informed the Natives that their object
was not to trade, but merely to explore tht coun-
try ; and that as soon as the navigation shall open,
they design to continue their route across the
Rocky Mountain, and thence descend to the Pa-
cific Ocean. They made the Natiyes a few small
presents, and repaired their guns, axes, d^c, gratis.
Mr. Chaboillez writes, that they behave honour^
ably toward his people, who are there to trade

with the Natives. ■*'^'^' ^^Hfe "i*4i' liiiKntt.Ji* '"n^**!!

f *
"^ Tuesday, January 21,1805. For nearly a month,

we have subsisted on little besides potatoes ; but
thanks to a kind Providence, the last night, two of
tny men returned from the plains, with their sledg-
es loaded with the flesh of the buffHloe. They

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

133

bring us the pleasing intelligence, that there is a
plenty of these animals within a day's march of us.
This supply of provisions could not have come
more opportunely, for our potatoes are almost
gone.

About a month since, I sent Mr. Goedike, ac>
companied by ten men, out into the -plains, in
hopes that they might fall in with the Natives,
who would be able to furnish us with food ; but
we have heard nothing from them, and I cannot
conjecture what should have detained them so long,
as I did not expect that they would be absent^ for
more than ten days, from the fort. ^. - ,...

Thursday, February 7. At the most of the
forts in the Swan River department, they have
not a sufiiciency of provisions ; and they have
therefore, sent the greater number of their peo-
ple, to pass the remainder of the winter here.
We now have bulfaloe in abundance, though our
family consists of upwards of seventy persons, who
consume, at least, four hundred and fifty pounds,
daily. f'*i.it\^:''fr ma .:/3/ Mi-^^'vdiSiH^-iM'

Thursday, 19. On the 8th inst. two men ar-
rived from Montagne k la Basse, with a packet of
letters, informing me, that a coalition took place,
the last autumn at Montreal, bet^veen the North
West and the X. Y. companies, which letters I
have forwarded to Fort des Prairies. ^»5. ♦ ; uiffu tu

134

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

1 ii,

p * til '

1,1 •' I t

i. . i

^ '■

s.« On the 16th inst. I left this, in a cariol, drawn
by a horse, to visit a place, about two days' march
from this, into the plains, were a number of our
people have passed a greater part of the winter :
and in the course of this pleasant ride, I saw thou-

H Saturday, March % People arrived from Fort
dee Prairies, with letters from that place, the
English River, and Athabasca. — Yesterday, swans
passed this place, on their way to the north-
ward. ' ' '. '

Monday^ 18. A band of Crees and Assiniboins
came in, a few days since, consisting of more than
a hundred persons. As they brought a considera-
ble quantity of furs and provisions, they were j;.ole
to purchase a large supply of spirits for several
days, and of course continued drinking, until tl^eir
means were exhausted. During this period, one
of the Assiniboins stabbed one of the Crees. The
wound, however, is not thought to be mortal. The
injury has been atoned for, therefore, by a horse,
presented by the aggressor, to the wounded In-
dian ; and now, they appear to be as great
friends, as they were before the quarrel took
place. , ; „ ,f _ , . .

,., It is a common thing among all the Natives,
' for an offender to offer property in satisfaction for
an injury j and when this is accepted by the in-

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

135

f >* ■f'j'vif-j ^ .#■*■

jtired party, contention between them entirely
ceases. Even murder is, sometimes, in this '
way, atoned for; but not commonly. In ordinary
cases, nothing but the death of the murderer, or of
some of his near relations, will satisfy the desire
of revenge in an Indian, whose relative has been
murdered. •« i*umf Mi:tf>-f'ttt' ^f*if».H.i .mF^nvHi

Wednesday, Jpril 10. On the 24th ult. I set
out on horse back, accompanied by one man, for
Montagne a la Basse. When we arrived there,
we were not a little surprised to find the fort
gates shut, and about eighty tents of Crees and
Assiniboins encamped in a hostile manner, around
it, and threatening to massacre all the white peo-
ple in it. They, in a menacing manner, threw
balls over the palisades, and told our people to
gather them up, declaring that they would proba-
bly have use for them in the course of a few days.*
After having passed several days there, I set out"^
to return home. Just as I had gotten out of the
fort gate, three villainous Indians approached me;
and one of them seized my horse by the bridle
and stopped him, saying, that the beast belonged
to him, and that he would take him from me.
I told him that he had disposed of him to Mr.
Chaboillez, who had charge of the post ; and that
of this gentleman, I had purchased him, and that I
had no concern with the matter, whiirfi was whol-

136

Harmon's journal.

'■^VU

I'l'i

,. .

\y between him and Mr. Chabolllez. Perceiving,
however, that he was determined not to let go of
the bridle, I gave him a smart blow on his hand,
with the but end o{ my whip, which consisted of
a deer's hor. , and instantly striking my horse, I
caused him to spring forward, and leave the Indian
behind. Finding myself thus clear of this fel-
low, I continued my rout ; but he with one of his
companions, followed us nearly half of the day, if
not longer. After this length of time we saw no
more of them. Apprehensive, however, that they
might fall upon us in our encampment at night,
and steal our horses, and probably massacre us,
after it became dark, we went a little out of the
path, and laid ourselves down ; but we dared not
make a fire, lest the light or the smoke should
discover the place where we were. * '• ■*

On my return, I passed four days agreeably, at
Riviere qui Apelle, in the company of a number
of gentlemen, whom I found there. On leaving
that place, I was obliged to cross the river, and
at this late season, the ice was bad. My horse,
while I was on him, fell through the ice twice, and
the last time, I came very near passing under it;
but a kind Providence once more, granted me de-
liverance. ..,;,,„.

While at Montagne a la Basse, Mr. Chaboillez,
induced me to consent to undertake a long and

Harmon's journal.

137

arduous tour of discovery. I am to leave that
place, about the beginning of June, accompanied
by six or seven Canadians, and by two or three In-
dians. The first place, at which we shall stop,
will be the Mandan Village, on the Missouri Riv-
er. Thence, we shall steer our course towards
the Rocky Mountain, accompanied by a number
of the Mandan Indians, who proceed in that di-
rection every spring, to meet and trade with another
tribe of Indians, who reside on the other side of
the Rocky Mountain. It is expected that we
ahall return from our excursion, in the month of
November next*. « •» ■

[This journev I never undertook; for soon af-
ter the plan of it was settled, my health became
so much impaired, that I was under the necessity
of proceeding to Head Quarters, to procure med-
ical assistance. A Mr. La Rocque attempted to
make this tour ; but went no farther than the
Mandan Village.] *?

Thursday^ 18. We are packing our furs, in
order to send them to the general rendezvous ;
and a few days hence, I shall abandon this fort,
and the Indians in this vicinity will go either into
the region of Riviere qui Apelle, or up the SisisK
catchwin' River, near Fort des Prairies.
.■-» f^Sunday, May 5. We are now about three
leagues below Alexandria, which place we aban^

138

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

'), IrM' '111

\m- ■■<' -' i'i

doned on the 28th ult. All our property is on
board of boats ; but sonie of us travel on horse-
back. As it has not rained since the last Autumn,
the water in the river is uncommwily low, on ac-
count of which, our boats make but poor progress.
As we have a pit saw with us, I have directed
some of my people to go into the woods, and saw a
sufficient quantity of boards, to constiuct another
boat, by means of which, we may reduce the load-
ing, ) those that we now possess.

Wednesday, 8. Riviere qui J^pelle. On the
6th Mr. Goedike and several other persons with
myself, left our boats, and proceeded on horse-
back. As the fire has passed over the plains,
this spring, it was with difficulty that we could
find grass, sufficient for the subsistence of our
horses. .■, -^.n ■■■ _,,..• rr-^^ ,■

: Monday, 20. Montagne tin Basse, Here I
have been waiting ever since the 15th for the ar-
rival of our boats. They arrived this afternoon.
1*^ Monday, 27. Riviere a la Souris, or Mouse
River. This is about Mty miles from Montagne
a la Basse. Here are three establishments, form-
ed severally by the North West, X. Y. and Hud-
son Bay companies. .^iy

f'-^-

■■-4fckiji. w '% ■ T*«# .

Last evening, Mr. Chaboillez invited the people
of the other two forts to a dance ; and we had a
real North West country ball. When three fourths

HARMON S JOURNAL.

139

of the people had drunk so much, as to be incapa-
ble of walking straightly, the other fourth thought
it time to put an end to the ball, or rather bawl.
This morning, we were invited to breakfast at the
Hudson Bay House, with a Mr. M^Kay, and in the
evening to a dance. This, however, ended more
decently, than the one of the preceding evening.
^ It is now more than fifty years, since a French
missionary left this place. He had, as I am inform-
ed, resided here, during a number of years, for the
purpose of instructing the Natives in the Christian
religion. He taught them some short prayers, in
the French language, the whole of which some of
them have not yet forgotten.
W The surrounding country consists chiefly of
plains ; and the soil appears to be richer, than
that which is farther up the river.

Tuesday, 30. In the morning, I left Mouse
River; and I have with me upwards of forty men,
in five boats and seven canoes. a uvxysii '

■^ Saturday, June 1. We arc now a little below
what was called the Pine Fort. It is twenty
years since this fort was built, and eleven since it
was abandoned. This River is now so low, aris- *^
ing from the fact that we have had no rain this
spring, and we have such a number of boats and
canoes, that we drive the sturgeon upon the sand
bankr, where there is but little water ; and we

140

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

have no difficulty in killing any number of them,
that we [)lease. We novvsubsist entirely on these
fish ; and they are excellent food, ^tm ®i'^vt8ui*>A*
Thursday^ 13. Portage la Prairie, or Plain
Portage. Here the North West company have a
miserable fort, the local situation of which, is beau-
tiful, beyond any thing that I have seen in his
part of the world. Opposite the fort, iheie is a
plain, which is about sixty miles long, and from one
to ten broad, in the whole extent of which, not the
least rise of ground is visible. — To this place, the
Natives resort every spring, to take and dry stur-

Saturday, 15. We are now encamped under
a beautiful range of oaks, which separate the riv-
er from a pretty extensive plain. Ever since we
left Mouse River, the soil on each side of the Up-
per Red River, down which we are passing, ap-
pears to be excellent, and the timber is very dif-
ferent from what it is near its source. We here
find oak, elm, walnut, bass wood, &c. and I «'m ^r^-
formed that there are grapes and plums in this
vicinity. »i*'!»^ J »■>+«• t"^

^ Tuesday, 18. Not far from the place where
we are now encamped, there is a considerably
large camp of Sauteux. Among them I saw an-
other of my unfortunate countrymen, who, like
one of whom I have already spoken, was taken

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

141

from his parents, when a child. Thus, has many
a fond mother, in the frontier settlements, been
deprived of her beloved and tender offspring. —
but this fellow is lost, beyond recovery, for he now^.
Hpeaks no other language, but that of the Indians,
among whom he resides, and he has adopted all
their manners and customs ; and it would now be
as difficult to reconcile him to the habits of civil-
ized life, as it would be, were he a real Indian.

Wednesday, 19. The Forks. At this place
the Upper and Lower Red Rivers, form a junc-
tion. The country around is pleasant, the soil ap-
pears to be excellent, and it is tolerably well tim-
bered with oak, basswood, walnut, elm, poplar, as-
pin, birch, he. Grape vines &nd plum trees are
also seen.

Friday, tl. We are now enfcampel at the
nlace, where the Red River enters the Great Win-
ipick Lak^. It is now nearly five years since I pass-
ed this place, whic'j, at first thought, seems but a
moment. But when I deliberately recollect the
scenes through which I have passed, during that
space of time, it seems as if I had passed the
greater part of my days in this country. - . ■ ,

Monday, 24. We are now at the entrance of
Winipick River, into the Lake of the same name.
Wo, here, find a number of people, who are from

A'*

142

HARMON tj JOURNAL.

i'J

their respective winter quarters, and who, like our-
selves, are on their way to the New Fort. **f««l

Friday, July 5. Rainy Lake. On the margin
of the waters, which connect this lake with the
Great Winipick Lake, the wild rice is found, of
which I have spoken on a former occasion. This
useful grain is produced in no ther part of the
North West Country ; though Carver erroneous-
ly states, that it is found every where. It grows
in water, about two feet deep, where there is a
rich muddy bottom. It rises more than eight feet
above the water ; and, in appearance bears p con-
siderable resemblance to oats. It is gathered
about the latter end of September, in the follow-
ing manner. The Natives pass in among it in ca-
noes. Each canoe has in it two persons, one of
whom is in each end, with a long hooked stick, in
one hand, and a straight one in the other. With
the hooked stick, he brings the heads'of^he grain
over the canoe, and holds it there ; while, with
the other, he beats it out. When the canoe is
thus sufficiently loaded, it is taken to the shore and
emptied. This mode of gathering the wild rice,
is evidently more simple and convenient, than that
which was practised in Carver's day. This grain
is gathered in such quantities, in this region, that,
in ordinary seasons, the North West Company
purchase, annually, from twelve to fifteen hundred

Harmon's journal. ^

143

bushels of it, from the Natives ; and it constitutes
a principal article of food, at the posts in this yi-
cinity. "' ' - * '*

I have here received letters from my friends
in Vermont, which left them in April last; and
which have, as usual, afforded me much satisfac-
tion. *.^- i^jm^'- mi$'^i->A*i t * .^'v''- K /«''. A' ■■,.','. ■ j>t^j,

Saturday^ 6. Rainy Lake, We are about ten
miles from the fort, on this lake ; and have been
encamped, during the greater part of the day, in
order that our people may repair their canoes ;
for they will soon be obliged to transport them
over a number of long portages. .,y^^. ^>*>

vtJUonday 8. Cross Lake. Here we meet
several canoes which, about the beginning of May
last, left Montreal, that have goods on board,
which will be carried in them to the Rainy Lake
fort, and will thence be transported to Athabasca.
— At this lake, we leave the route which leads to
the old Grand Portage.

^utTuesday,^ 9. During the whole of this day,
we have been crossing small lakes, and coming
down what deserve the name of brooks, rather
than rivers. — We have met eight canoes, on their
way to the Rainy Lake. -i'-n^-^.^^,.', .,,

Friday^ 12. The Plain Portage. In the for-
mer part of the day, we met, A. N. M'^Leod, Esq.
who is now from tJie New Fort, on his way back

144

Harmon's journal.

Ij i t

to Athabasca. We went on shore, and took break-
fast with him. He has taken with him my friend
Mr. F. Goedike, a young man possessed of a good
understanding, and a humane and generous heart,
who has been with me for four years past, and
from whom I could not separate, without regret.

Saturday, July 13. Overtook the Swan River
people, and entered Nipignon River, which is
nearly ten rods broad. This and Dog's river,
excepting a few carrying places, on account of
rapids and falls, will carry us to the New Fort.
The land in this vicinity is low, and in many pla-
ces, it is swampy. There are few animals in this
region, excepting moose, bears, and a few beavers
and martins. This is the rout, by which the
French, in former times, passed into the I *eriour.
The Indians in this quarter, are a few Sauteux
and Muscagoes. The latter, come from towards
Hudson's Bay. v^ ^^y^s *^,-

*v Sunday 14. Dog's Portage, which is about
three miles over. After coming down Nipignon
River, which is nearly fifty miles long, we enter-
ed the Dog's Lake, which may be about forty
miles in circumference, and by crossing which, we
arriveQ at tnis piace. ■. .mm-vm't-m vtnitK'Wf^v. v^k-t^-,,-^!^, ^.«»'

Monday 15. The Mountain Portage. Itere the

water falls perpendicularly, about seventy feet.

>The North West company have here a store

Harmon's journal.

145

house, to which they send provisions, &c., from
the New Fort, as the river from this to that
place is generally shallow, and is full of rapids.
Those, therefore, who are going into the interi-
our, cannot take a full load, until they arrive at
this place ; and here they usually take their sup-
ply of provisions.

Tuesday, 16. Mew Fort, or, as \i is called by
the Natives, Kd-mi-ni-ti-qui-d, is built on the bank
of Dog River, which is a considerable stream,
that empties into Lake Superiour, about four or
five hundreds rods below the fort. The vessel
that runs on that lake, can come, with a part of
her lading, quite up to the quay, before the fort.
Here the French, before the English conquered
Canada, had an establishment.

We here meet a number of gentlemen, some
of whom came this summer from Montreal, and
others from different parts of the Interiour.
There are also here, one thousand labouring men,
the greater part of whom, are Canadians, who
answer better in this country, for the service re-
quired by the Company, than any other people
would probably do.

The country, for some considerable distance

round, is covered with heavy timber, consisting of

a kind of red pine, poplar, aspin, birch, cedar, &c.,

but the soil does not appear to be of the first

146

HARMON S JOURNAL.

— rs

quality. Potatoes, pease, oats, &c., however,
grow tolerably well here, t^* , ri .'^y^

Monday, 22. I have passed several days, not
unpleasantly, in the company of a number of young
gentlemen. They now begin, however, to leave
this, to return to their winter quarters; and to-
morrow, I expect to depart, and to proceed for
Fort des Prairies. As there will be two other
young gentlemen in the same brigade, whom I
know to be sociable and pleasant companions, I
expect to have a pleasant passage to my winter
quarters. ,1.- i^^ .^ . ..

Wednesday, •iugust 28. During nearly a
month past we have been coming through a coun-
try, which I have already described. We are
now at the Grand Rapid, where the Sisiscalichwin
River disembogues into the north west part of
Great Lake Winipick. This is a noble stream,
ajbout two hundred fathoms broad.

Thursday, September 5. Cumberland House.
This fort stands on the north side of a considera-
ble lake, called by the Natives, who in this vicini-
ty are Muscagoes, Sturgeon Lake. The sturgeon
are found in considerable plenty, in this lake.
This post was established, thirty three years
since, by Mr. Joseph Frobisher. At this place,
the people who are destined to Fort des Prairies,
and those who are proceeding to Athabasca, sep-

Harmon's journal.

147

owever.

arate. The former go up the Slslscatchwin Riv-
er, and the latter up the English River. The
latter, is so called, in honour of Mr. Joseph Fro-
bisher, an Englishman, who was the first trader
that ever went into that part of the country. —
On the 30th ultimo, we crossed Lac Bourbon,
which is about forty miles long, on which the
North West Company had a fort, formerly ; but
it was abandoned, in 1802. There are few
mountains or hills to be seen, between this place
and Lake Winipick. The country has a pretty
heavy growth o( timber, and the soil is rich. In
the lakes and rivers of this region, excellent fish
are taken, such as sturgeon, white-fish, cat-fish,
pike, pickefel, &c. This country abounds in fowls,
among which are swans, bustards, geese, and many
kinds of ducks. Moose are found in considerable
plenty; there are a few black bears, otters, musk-
rats and martins ; and rarely, a beaver is found.

Saturday, September 21. So^th Branch Fort.
This is about one hundred and twentv miles
above the Fork, or the place where this river
forms a junction with the North Branch, after
which, it assumes the name of Sisiscatchwin River.
Both branches take their rise in the Rocky Moun-
tain, though at a distance of several hundred
miles from each other. The South Branch pass-
es through large plains ; but the country through

148

HARMON S JOURNAL.

% ' 'I

<< ill

■^1^

^;l Aiv.-*

which the other runs r yoody, particularly on the
north side. From C uberland House to the
Fork, the country on both sides of the river is
covered with wood. In these woods, and the
small plains that are here and there scattered
among them, moose, red deer, &c., are to be
found. ' ir;~;w^

t. This fort was put up the last summer, and
two stores were built ; but the dwelling houses
are still to be constructed. — I am informed that
buffaloes are ill plenty within a half a day's march
from this. There are four tribes of Indians,
who come to trade at this establishment. They
are the Crees, Assiniboins, Sauteux and Musca-
goes. A few also of the Black fcit Indians resort
here. * ' -*m««' ;-'-»< •. :^.-

In coming up this river, we sa v many places,
where forts have stood, some of which were
abandoned thirty years since, and some at a later
period. One, which was situated about six miles
below this, was abandoned fifteen years since, on
account of an attack from the Rapid Indians. The
following circumstances, in regard to that affair,
were related to me by Mons. Louis Chattel-
lain, who, at that time, had charge of the fort.
The Hudson Bay Company had a fort in the same
neighbourhood, which was first attacked, by about
one hundred and fifty Indians oh horse back ;

UARMON^S JOURNAL.

149

and the few people who were in it, excepting one
man, who secreted himself, were killed. After
they had taken out of the fort all the property
which they could con'jreniently c^rry away with
them, they set fire to the fort, and proceeded to
the establishment of the North West Company,
which was two hundred rods distant from that of
Hudson Bay people, with the intention of treating
it in a similar manner.

The fort gates had providentially, been shut,
previously to the approach of the Indians. There
were in the fort, three men, and several women
and children. The men took their stations in the
block houses and bastions ; and when the Natives
had come sufficiently near, fired upon tliem. The
Indians, instantly returned the fire ; and the contest
continued, until the night approached. The sav-
age assailants, having had several of their party
killed, and others severely wounded, while the
people in the fort had sustained no injury, thought
it best to retreat ; and after dragging their dead
and dying into the river, they retired. But Mr.
Chattellain did not think it prudent to remain
there any longer. Accordingly, the day fol-
lowing, thfey embarked all their property on
board of several canoes, and proceeded down the
river, about two hundred miles, where they com-
menced building another fort. The only object

150

Harmon's journal.

of the Indians, in attacking these forts, was plun-
der. '* ' "•• i3f«iB«.i -.^4 ij . , '?*' 4 .' 5**'; »-'!i€i Jr

Mr. WiUiain Smith and myself, together with
fifteen labouring men, &c. are to pass the winter
here ; and a few hundred paces from us, the Hud-
son Bay people have a fort. -"-^ ■"

Thursday, October 10. This day, a Canadian's
daughter, a girl of about fourteen years of age,
was offered to me ; and after mature considera-
tion, concerning the step which I ought to take, I
have finally concluded to accept of her, as it is
customary for all gentlemen who remain, for any
length of time, in this part of the world, to have a
female companion, with whom they can pass their
time more socially and agreeably, than to live a
lonely life, as they must do, if single. If we can
live in haimony together, my intention now is, to
keep her as long as I remain in. this uncivilized
part of the world ; and when I return to my na-
tive land, I shall endeavour to place her under the
protection of some honest man, wi.h whom she
can pass the remainder of her days in this country,
much more agreeably, than it would be possible
for her to do, were she to be taken down into the
civilized world, to the manners, customs and lan-
guage of which, she would be an entire stranger.
Her mother is of the tribe of the Snare Indians,
whose country lies along the Rocky Mountain.

•m

n HARMON S JOURNAL.

151

The girl is said to have a mild disposition and an
even temper, which are qualities very necessary
to make an agreeable woman, and an affectionate
partner. ...

.>^ Thursday, JVovember 7. The river froze over
the last night ; but we have yet had but little
snow. vTKs 1 \

Saturday, March 15, 1806. This evening the
northern express arrived ; and I am sorry to learn
that no letters have come from Athabasca, this
season. This failure is owing to the great depth of
snow in that quarter. — Buffaloes have been found
in plenty, within a few miles of the fort, during
the whole winter. Ea?4fs r**^.^ ;ttiBi^<.i^^«&f t.r,,;^®?^ oh«^f- #f

l^uesday, 25. The snow is chiefly dissolved,
we have sent four men, about a day's march from
this, to make sugar.

Saturday, April 19. The greater part of our
Indians have gone to wage war upon the Rapid
Indians, their inveterate enemies, with whom they
frequently patch up a peace, which, however, is
generally of short continuance. m

Monday, 28. This afternoon, the ice in this
river broke up. — A few days since, a small war
party of the Rapid Indians came and killed seve-
ral Assiniboins, who were encamped within fif-
teen miles of our fort. They also stabbed an
old woman in several places, and scalped her, who.

■f

152

<#^HAHMON^S JOURNAL*

notwithstanding, is stl!l alive, and, to appearance,
likely to recover of her wounds. "^^ :% "^v

'*; • Monday, June 2. Last evening, Messrs. J.
Hughes and Alexander Stewart came here, on
horse back, from the North Branch, which passes
within fifteen miles from this. There, they left
their canoes and people ; and on their return, they
will continue their rout to the New Fort.— Mr.
Smith and myself, ^if providence permit, "tre 'o pass
the summer at this place, where we have three
interpreters, four labouring men, and a number ol
women and children. As my companion is a sen-
sible, well informed and sociable young man, 1
hope to pass my time both pleasantly and profita-
bly. ^)!**f«-,Jj^:'*ii^'tffe'»» ^**"''4ii0>.mi'*m
j.«a«: Friday, August 8. Six Assiniboins have arriv-
ed, and inform us, that about eighty tents of Creep
and Assiniboins, with about as many of the Black
feet Indians, were on their ^ay to wage war with
the Rapid Indians, their common enemy. But the
two former tribes quarrelled, in their march, re-
specting a horse, which they both claimed, and
which neither would relinquish. This circum-
stance occasioned a battle betu'een them, which
lasted during a day, in which twenty five of the
Black feet indians^ and three of the Assiniboins,
were killed. This put an end to ihe expedition,
for this season. -^m ipi# <;

»f

HARMON'S JOUBNA(<.

103

earance.

■ V

essrs. J.
here, on
h passes
they left
irn, they
rt.-— Mr.
e "^n pass
e three
imber of
is a sen-
; man, I
1 profita-

1'. ikJ i .

ve arriv-

of Cree?

le Black

var with

But the

irch, re-

led, and

circum-

a, which

i of the

iniboins,

leditlon,

..i^\ Wednesday, September 3. Two men have ar-
rived from Cumberland House, situated on Stur-
geon Lake, who have brought me letters from my
friends below, which communicate the melancholy
intelligence, that my father, after a severe illness
of but a (gw weeks, expired, on the 25th of June,
1805. The protector and guide of my youth,
whom I revered and loved, 1 shall never more
Bee in this world. It would have afforded me in-
expressible satisfaction, could I have seen and con-
versed with him, previously to his departure. But
" the Judge of the earth has done right," and " his
will be done." I am not left to mourn, under this
severe bereavement, without consolation ; for his
christian character and profession, afford the com-
fortable hope, that he has ceased to sin and to suf-
fer, and now participates in blessedness, such as
this miserable world cannot afford. May his pious
example stimulate me, and his other children, to
follow him in the path which conducts to a better
world. ^^iji^i^Mijif/. /iir^nH mHiizMi:''*ti^i ihi'

'- 1 have also received letters from Mr. A. N.
M^Leod, and Mr. J. M«= Donald, which inform me,
that I am to pass the enduing winter at Cuniber-
!and House, for which place, I shall leave this, a
few days hence. r ♦. i i r la tv ,» (i; ^ u i^n*'>

.1 Thursday, September 11. Cumler/and House,
I arrived here this afternoon, and tind Messrs.^J^

154

HAtlMON 8 JOURNAL.

" ! ' 1 ■

Hughes, and David Thompson, &c. who have just
arrived from the New Fort, and who are on their
way to Fort des Prairies. The Huds^^n Fay peo-
ple have a fort within a hundred rods of ours, in
the charge of Mr. Peter Fidler. ' t ,*

^~ Wednesday, 17. Sent Mons. Peras and com-
pany, with a small assortment of goods, to go and
pass the winter at Moose Lake, which is situated
about two days' march from this, and nearly weat
from Lake Winnipick. ."♦

^'^ The Indians, who resort to this establishment,
are Sauteux and Muscagoes. Moose and black
bears are pretty abundant in this vicinity ; and a
few beavers are found. We subsist principally upon
sturgeon and white hsh, which we take out of the
lake. Geese and bustards are numerous, in the
fall and spring. The surrounding country is very
low and level, so that, at some seasons, much of
it is overflowed. This accounts for the periodical
influx and reflux of the water, between this lake
and the Sisiscatchwin River, which are distant six
miles.

* Friday, October 3. Hudson Bay people, in
three canoes, have just arrived from York Facto-
ry* They bring late news from England; and in-
form us, that war continues to rage as much as
ever, on the continent of Europe.
,% Friday^ 24. Wc have now about four inches
• . - a*: ■

Harmon's journal.

155

of snow ; and, the last night, the greater part of
this lake froze over. — I have sent people to the
other side of this lake, to fish for sturgeon, which .
will weigh from ten to one hundred pounds. They
are taken in spread nets, which is the manner in
which we generally take all kinds of fish, in this
country. Some kinds, however, such as trout, cat
fish and pike, we at times take, by setting hooks
and lines.

Friday, January 30, 1807. Two of the Hud-
son Bay people arrived from Fort des Prairies,
who were so obliging as to bring me letters from
several gentlemen in that quarter. The greater
part of tLe North West and Hudson Bay people,
live on amicable terms ; and when one can with
propriety render a service to the other, it is done
with cheerfulness. ,,

Sunday, April 5. The Ice in the Sisiscatchwin
river, is broken up ; and the great quantity of
snow which has recently been dissolved, has caus-
ed that river to rise so high, as to give another
course to a small river, which generally takes its
water out of this lake, but which now runs into it.

Saturday, May 23. This lake is free from
ice ; and we have planted potatoes, and sowed our
garden seeds. — Geese have returned from the
south, and we now have them in plenty.

Saturday, 30. Mr. John McDonald and others.

156

UARMON S JOURNAL.

in seven canoes, have just arrived from Fort dea
Prairies, and are on their way to the New Fort. '
^^ Sfunday, June 1 . Grand Rapid. On the 1st
inst. Mr. John M<^Donald, myself and other peo-
ple, in seven canoes and one boat, left CutnbeHand
House and arrived here, on the 15th, where we
have ever since been, stopped by the ice in Lake
Winnipick, which is not yet broken up. — We here
spear as many sturgeon as wc please, as they are
going up or down the rapid, wh'ch is about six
miles in length.

-- Monday^ 8. Lake Winnipick. The last night
there arose a strong north west wind, which broke
up the ice, and drove it to the north east part of
the lake. We, therefore, embarked this morning,
and have sailed all dav. ' "^ '..-t**-^ --

Tuesday^ 16. White River. In the morning
we left the fort, at the entrance of Lake Winnipick
River, and this afternoon, Mr. A. N. M^Leod and
company, from Athabasca, overtook us. With
thi'j gentleman, to whom I am under many obliga-
tions, I am happy to spend an evening, after so
long a separation.

r. Saturday, Jidy 4. JYew Fort. Once ittore, I
have arrived at the general rendezvous, and find
myself among my friends and acquaintances, from
different parts of the country. — Here I have re-
ceived letters from my friemls beloW, which in-

, -»

Harmon's journal.

157

ibrm me of their health and reasonable prosperi*-
ty. It is a great satisfaction thus to hear from
them ; but this satisfaction would be greatly in-
creased, could I be permitted to see and converse
with them. Although the seven years, for which
I was under an engagement to the North West
Company, have now expired, I cannot with the
least degree of propriety, as I think, gratify the
ardent desire which I have of seeing my friends,
by going down this year. Ai.d when the happy
time will come, that I shall visit them, God only
knows. It is trying to a person who has the least
affection for his friends, to be separated from
them, for such a series of years, in such a savage
country. My duty and happiness, however, re-
quire that I endeavour to make the best of my
situation. Notwithstanding the bad examples
which we daily witness, a person can be as virtu-
ous in this, as in any other part of tlie world.
True it is, if a person were here to lead a really re-
ligious life, he would find but few associates, who
would directly encourage him in his (^yurac^ But
this is in a great measure trub in every part of
the world. ^v ■' ••* .. v. >,'j >, i^?. . »-- ,. ,

• Sunday, July 19. This, which was formerly
called the New Fort, is now named Fort William,
in honour of William M^Gilvray, Esq. the head
agent of the North West Company. At the time

158

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

of giving this name, the Company made a present
to their Voyagers, of a considerable quantity of
spirits, shrub, &:c. and also a similar present to the
Indians, encamped about the fort.

As I am still in ill health, I shall pass the win-
ter wi'th Doctor M'^Laughlin, at Sturgeon Lake,
in the department of Nipigon, which lies to the
north west from this. y .->^'^i-«. /? i.^ **«
^^^u Saturday, 25. This afternoon, in company
with three canoes, I left Fort William ; and we
are now encamped on an island, in Lake Supe-
riour, . ,. . .

„,., JHonday, August 3. First long Portage in
the JVipigon Road. We yesterday, separated
from Messrs. Chaboille" ^iid Leith, who have gone
to winter at the Pic and Michipcotton ; and to day,
we left Lake Superiour, and have come up a small
river.

Tuesday, 4. South west end of Lake JVipigon,
This lake is said to be one hundred and fifty miles
in length, and from one, to twenty, broad. Trout
are here *^k2£?/SUDeriour to those that are found
iritne NorthWesf country, which will weigh up-
wards of seventy pounds, and are of an excellent
quality. — The country through which we have
passed in coming to this place from Lake Superi-
our, is rocky and contains but little wood, of any
kind. Whortleberries are found in plenty, iri^^^;.

Harmon's journal.

159

•:% "Friday, 7. Fort Duncan, at the north end of
Lake JVipigon. The surrounding country is very
rough; but where the ground is arable, the
soil appears to be good. — Moose and cariboo
are found in this vicinity ; and there are, also, a
few black bear^, beavers, otters, muskrats, mar-
tins, &c. Great numbers of white fish are taken
out of the lake, particularly in the fall of the year.
These are hvtng up by their tails, in the open air,
and are preserved good, in a frozen state, during
the winter:. Most people prefer those that have
been thus kept, to fish that are taken immediately
out of the water. .v a

Sunday, 9. In the morning, we sent off three
canoes, and in the after part of the day, some of
the people returned, with the melancholy intelli-
gence, that one of their companions was drowned,
in going up a small rapid. The canoe overset,
and most of the property on board, was lost. The
other persons, who were in it, saved themselves
by swimming to the shore.

'«» Thursday, 13. In the morning, Mr. Holdane,
the Doctor and myself, with our company, left fort
Duncan, where Mr. R. M<=Kenzie will pass the
ensuing winter. There, also, we separated from
two Messrs. Camerons, whose route is northward,
towards Hudson's Bay. Our course is nearly
south west. 1

.'1

*i ♦■:

160

.'lARMON'S JOURNAL.

it 1

% i

^ Monday, 24. Portage du Fort, or Sturgeon
Lake. Here, we arrived, yesterday ; and this
morning, Mr. Holdane and his company left us, to
continue their route to Red Lake. The Doctor
and I, with our company, shall leave this tomor-
row, to go and build at the other end of this lake,
•which may be about forty miles long, and from
4/sH; XL 've broad. — The country through which
Wfc Lave r.-^ssed, since we left Fort Duncan, is Fow
and level ; no mountains, or even hills, arc to be
seen ; in many places it is swampy, and small lakes
and ponds and rivers and brooks are numerous.
Where the land is dry, the soil appears to be prin-
cipally a black loam. — This tract of country was
formerly well stocked with beavers and otters ;
but they have now become scarce, as they have
been hunted by the Natives, during more than the
last hundred years. Moose and carriboo are still
considerably numerous, in this region.

Tuesday, September, 1. Our people are erect-
ing houses for our winter habitations. We now
take white fish in considerable numbers. — The In-
dians, who frequent this post, are Sauteux and
Muscagoes. "^ •'-"'*"■ *"* >)v. .:.>««rJ^*, ..^.vfi ;.

Saturday, October 3. We sent people to the
other end of this lake, to make a fall fishery.
They will take white fish, trout, pike, carp, Hcc,,
which constitute^ the principal food for those

Harmon's journal.

161

who are in the Nipigon country. In this country,
which is at least seven hundred miles long and
five or six hundred broad, more people have starv-
ed to death, than in all the rest of the Indian coun-
try. At this lake, several years since, eleven
Canadians lost their lives for want of food. We
experience at present, no difHcul ty in this respect ;
and I am of opinion that the distresses of our
predecessors were, in a considerable measure,
owing to the want of good management.

* Monday, JVovember 9. Our people havt re-
turned, and inform us, that they have caught only
fourteen hundred fish of all aescriptions. These,
however, with what corn, flour, wild rir" and meat
we have, together with the trout which we hope
to take with set hooks and lines, as soon as the
lake is frozen over, will, we expect, furnish us
with a comfortable subsistence, during the winter.
We are in a solitary place, where we see no one,
excepting the Natives ; and they are few in num-
ber, compared with those, among whom I have
formerly been. Happily for us, we have a
few good books ; and in perusing them, we
shall pass the greater part of the time. The
Doctor, who is of about the same age with
myself, is an excellent companion, and fond
of conversation ; and I trust, that a friendly inter-
course will mutually cheer our spirits, and that we
21

162

HARMON'S JOUR:taL.

if 1

shall spend the winter in a manner, that will be
both pleasant and profitable. — We have now
about four inches of snow, which will probably re-
main with us through the winter.
, Sunday, lb. The last night, this lake froze

Friday, December 4. We now take great
numbers of excellent trout from under the ice,
with books and lines. if i»

Early this morning, the woman whom 1 have
taken to reside with me, became the mother of a
boy, whom 1 name George Harmon.
,.,^, Monday, December 28. Doctor M<^Laughlin,
accompanied by two Canadians and one of the
Natives,^ has gone to visit Mr. Holdane, at Red
Lake. ii a,A« = f.i^.'

Friday, February 19, 1808. The Doctor
and company have returned, from their long
juant ; and I am happy in again enjoying his so-
ciety, after a season of comparative loneliness.
i i^^ Another year of my life is gone, which makes
me thirty years of age. This anniversary leads
me to reflect on the rapid flight of time, and the
brevity of human life. When I attentively con-
sider these things, it seems surprising that we
should encounter so much difliculty and labour in
the acquisition of property, which, if it could min-

Harmon's journal.

163

ister more effectually to our enjoyment than it^
does, we must very soon relinquish forever.

Friday, May 13. The Doctor, with one man
in a small canoe, has set off for Fort William,
where he will be wanted as soon as he can arrive,
to attend on the sick. Among the great number '
who visit that rendezvous every summer, there
are always some, who need medical aid ; thougl^ .
I firmly believe, that no part of the world is more
healthly than this. — The Doctor has not been
able to learn, to his satisfaction, what my com-
plaint is. I think that the medicines, which I have
taken, in the course of the winter, have been of
essential service to me ; and I hope, before long
to regain my former state of good health.

The Indians of this f^ace have subsisted, dur-
ing the greater part of the past winter, upon
hares. — There is an old Sauteux woman here,
who compels her own son to have criminal inter-
course with her! ' (

Thursday, June 9. Portage du Fort. Here,
we shall wait the arrival of the people of this de-
partment ; and we shall then continue our route,
with them to Fort William. It is nine months
and fifteen days since I passed this place, the last
autumn, in going into the country, which evinces
that our winter has been long; and I may add
too, that it has been dreary. But we have reason

164

HARMON S JOURNAL.

JimWii'jil'

/«

to be thankful to God, that we have not suffered
at all, for the want of the means of sul^sistence.

Wednesday, 22. Fort Duncan, The people
for whoa* we were waiting at Portage du Fort,
arrived on the 12th, and the day following, we
set out for this place, which we reached this af-
ternoon. i«
f. Saturday, 25. Yesterday, we left fort Dun-
can, and came to an island in Lake Nipigon, on
which we are now encamped, and where we in-
tend to pass a few days, in fishing for trout,
which are here in plenty, and are of an excellent
quality. -».r^.. ^ yr, 3-^,^-^87?.

Thursday, July 7. Yesterday morning, I ar-
rived at Fort William, where I had only time to
read my letters from my friends below, and an-
swer them, and prepare myself for a long journey.
This afternoon I embarked for Athabasca, in
company with Mr. J. G. M<^Tavish ; and both of
us are to remain at the place of our destination,
for three years, at least. .-^i-^w^^

Wednesday, 20. Rainy Lake. We here find
all the Athabasca people, excepting one brigade,
which is expected daily. *' **

Saturday, 22. Ever since my arrival here,
we have been busily employed in preparing to
leave this place, for our winter quarters.

Tuesday, 26. Rainy Lake River. In the

Harmon's journal.

165

morning, I left the fort in company with Mr.
Archib. Id McGiUivray. Our brigade consicts of
ten canoes. ' * .. > r . ,. . .

Friday, 29. Portage de Disk, in Winnipick
River. In the morning, we met Mr. David
Thomson and company from the Columbia River.

Monday, Avgust 1. Lake Winnipick. This
morning, we arrived at the fort on this lake,
where we remained until noon. While there, I
wrote to my old friend Mr. William Henry, who
is at the Lower Red River. 1 also received a
letter from him, in which he informs me, that his
fort was attacked this summer, by a considerable
party of Sieux. Two shots, from cannon in the
block houses, however, caused them to retire, in
doing which, they threatened that they would be-
fore long, return and make another attempt to
take the fort. — The Sieux are a numerous tribe
of Indians, who are scattered over a large tract of
land, that lies between the Mississippi and Missou-
ri rivers ; and they are said to be the greatest
villains, in this part of the world. They are the
same tribe that Carver distinguishes, by the name
of Nandswesseis. .v. *

baturday, 6. Grand Rapid, at the north west
end of Lake Winnipick. The wind has been high,
during the day ; and in the latter part of it, one
of our canoes filled with water. Happily, it was

166

harmok's journai^

near an island, when tliis disaster happened. The
people were, however, under the necessity of
throwing a part of their property overboard.

We find here Mons. Perigne, who was former-
ly a clerk to the North West Company, but who,
as he informs me, has lately been to Canada, and
has coifne up oo his own account. He has
brought up a few good^, to enable him to carry on
a small traffick with the Natives. He, also,^ in-
tends, occasionally to hunt the beaver, &c., himself.
But I am convinced, that, at this great distance
from the place of market for furs, the trade cannot
be profitably carried on, unless it b« done on a
large scale, which requires a greater capital ihan
an individual can embark in this undertaking.
The cixperiment has been m*»de, in a number of
' inslances ; and it has uniformly failed.

. Friday^ 12. Cumberland House. From this
, place, I shall take a route, which I haive never
before travelled,

r-f Saturday^ 113. Eritmnce (!)/' Rtver Maltgne^ or
Bad River, This is a considerable river, which
runs into Sturgeon Lake.

Sunday^ 14. llmver Lake, The greater
part of the day, we have employed in coming y[)
tbti river last mentioned, which, through its
whole course, has a continual succession of rapids.

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

167

The country around is low, a.id the timber, like
that of the North West country generally, is small.

Tuesday^ 16. Pelican Lake, Most of the
day has been passed in crossing Lac Martin.

Wednesday. 17. Portage du Forte de Traite,
or Trading Fort Portage. This was so named,
from a circumstance which occurred here, thirty
lour years since. Mr. Joseph Frobisher and com-
pany, who were the first traders who ever came
into this quarter, here met a large band of Na-
tives, whose canoes were loaded with furs, which
they were taking to York Factor)', at Hudson's
Bay. He succeeded in bartering his goods for
iheir furs, which amounted to more than he could
take to head quarters, the next season. He
therefore built a fort, and, with his people passed
several winters here ; and at that time, it was the
most northen post, belonging either to the North

West, or the Hudson Bay Company. ^

All the wTtcrs from this side of the portage, pass
through Lake Winnipick, and finally fall into Hud-
son's Bay, at York Factory. But, on the other
side of the portage, which is about half a mile
over, the stream, which is called Mis-sin-ni-pi or
Great River, runs in a different direction, and en-
ters Hudson's Bay, at Churchill Factory, which is
the most northern post belonging to the Hudson
Bay Company. The river last mentioned, is call-

168

Harmon's journal.

•I > ! ,

ed, by the Hudson Bay people, Churchill River,
and by the people from Canada, English River.

Thursday, August 18. This afternoon, we ob-
tained some dried meat from the Natives, which
we find much more palatable than the salted pro-
visions, on which we have subsisted, ever since
we left Fort William. In the kiteriour we never
make 'jse of salted provisions ; not, however, for
want of salt, which is found in most parts of the
country, and which can be obtained in plenty, at
all our establishments. ' "^ ^^

Tuesday, 23. Isle a la Cross Lake. Ever
since we left Portage du Forte de Traite, we have
been in what may with propriety, bo called the
English River, though it passes through sev-
eral small lakes ; and in this river, our way has
been obstructed by thifty six portages. —

Thursday^ 25. ' Isle la Cross Jort. This fort
stands on the north side df the lake of the same
tiame, is well built and has attached to it an ex-
cellent kitchen garden. Out of the lake, the best
of white fish are taken, during the whole year ; and
it is the only place in this country, in which theec
fish can be taken, at all Beasons.— The Indians
who come to this establishment, are Chippewyans,
in considerablG numbers, and a few Crees. I am
informed that there are, in this vicinity, many
moose and carilioo, and a few black bears, bca-

Harmon's journal.

169

vers,' otters, cats, &c. The country is low ; and
scarcely any mountains are to be seen.

Tuesday, 30. East end of Portage la Loche, or
Loach Portage.' This is so named, from a neigh-
bouring lake, where these fish are taken, in abun-
dance. This portage is twelve miles oveit; and
across h, the pe?>ple are obliged to transport
both canoes' and lading. The road, however,
is excellent, through a level country, thinly wood-
ed with cypress. In coming here from Isle la
Cross, we Jiave passed two considerable lakes,
aiid come up a small river, which is between
those lakes. The country through which we
have parsed, is generally level, and the soil
iy tolerably \ood. " The streams, before we
cross this portage, discharge themselves into
Hudson's Bay at Churchill Factory ; but after-
ward, the water, after passing through Athabasca,
Great Slave, and other lakes, enters the North
Sea.

Saturday, September 3. JYorth west end of
Poringe la Loche. We here find a small band of
Chipewyans, who assist our people in trans-
porting our property across the portage, and
who supply us with provisions, which we very
much need, since our former btock is nearly ex-
hausted. » ' ^

About a mile from this end of the portage is
22

••*

J70

HARMON S JOURNAL.

«
ft

uir'"\

iv^n

a hill, which towers majestically, to the height of
a thousand feet, above the plain below ; and which
commands a most exi'ensive and delightful pros-
pect. Two lofty and extensive ridges, enclose a
valley, about three miles in width, which stretches,
far as^ the eye can reach. The Little River,
which is, also, by different persons, denominated
Swan, Clear water, or Pelican River, winds, in a
most k'lightful manner, along this charming val-
ley. The majestick forests, which wave upon
these ridges, the delightful verdure of the inter-
vening lawn, and the beautiful stream, which wan-
ders along through it, giving a pleasing variety to
the scene, until these objects become blended
with the horizon, form, on the whole, the most de-
lightful, natural scenery, that I ever beheld.

Sunday, 4. In the morning, we leO tlie Port-
age ; and are now in Little Athabasca River ,:
which is about twc- y rods wide.

Tuesday, 6. Vi . ;ire now in the Great Atha-
basca River, which is about three quarters of a
mile in breadth. In the early part of the day,
we passed the Fork, where Little Athabasca riv-
er and Red deer, or as some call it, Elk river,
form a junction. — At a small distance from Port-
age la Lothe, the navigation of the river is inter-
rupted by several carrying places, in ubout the
midille of which, are some mineral springs, that

U-v

i::;^^|^|J

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

^71

are evidently smpregnated with sulphur, as ap-
pears by the incrustations on their margins. At
about twenty miles from the Fork, several bitu-
minous fountains are found, into which a pole of
twenty (ect in length, m?cy be plunged,' witliout
the least resistance. The bitumen, which is in a
fluid state, is mixed with gum, or the resinous sub-
stance collected from the spruce fir, and is used for
gumming canoes. When heated, it emits a smell,
like that of sea coal. — There are some places,
along this river, which are of many miles in extent,
where there is scarcely a t''ee standmg. They
were killed by the fire, and were then thrown
down by the winds. At these places, a few bulTa.'
loes, moose and cariboo, are fodnd.

Wednesdmf, 7. Fort Chipcwyan. This fort
stands on a rocky point, at the south western end
of Athabasca Lake, or, as some call it, the Lake
of the Hills. — This is the general rendezvous for
all Athabasca. Here the goods are set apart for
all the difTcrent posts, in thij extensive depart-
ment ; and to this place, the greater number of
persons who have the charge of these posts, come
every fall, to receive their merchandise from
those, who have brought it from tho Rainy Lake.
— This place is in N. Lat. Sfi- 40' and VV. Long.

1 1 r.

< A few Crees, and a greater number of Chipe-

'■I ' ■

6K0-.

*SK-'-

172

Harmon's journal.

wyans, resort to this establishment. The latter
tribe were accustomed, formerly, to take their
furs to Churchill Factory, at Hudson's Bay.
They were, generally, six raonths in performing
the jounlcy ; and many of them have actually
starved to death, on their return home, as the
country through wliich they passed, is almost des-
titute of gatjie. — This lake is, in no part of it, more
than fifteen miles wide ; but it is, at least, two
hundred miles long, and extends eastwardly, to-
ward Churchill Factory. sj/n «> it
' A.bout sixty 'miles from this, down Slaro River,
there are several places, where almost any quan-
tity of excellent, clean, white aall; may be taken,
with as much case, as sand, along the sea shore.
From these places^ the greater part of the North
West IS supplied with this valuable article. i-
The country around this place, is low and lev-
el. ^ nd, iu the spring of the year, much of it iS cov-
ered with water. A few moose are found, in this
vicinity ; but, the fish of the lake form the princi-
pal dependence for food, and they are abundant,
ivticl of an excellent quality. — Every fall and spring,
bust'irds itnd geese are found in greater numbers,
than iii any other part of the North West.

Wednesday, 21, Ever since my arrival in this
place, people, from almost every corner of this
extensive department, have boon flocking in, some

HARAION^S JOURNAL.

ot'whom are from more than a thousand miles
down McKenzie's River, which is nearly north
west from this. Others are from Great Slave
Lake and Peace River. Mr. Simon Frazer has
just returned from the Pacific Ocean. The hist
spring, accompanied by two other gentlemen,
twelve Canadians, and two of the Natives, he set
out from New Caledonia, on the west side of the
Rocky Mountain, on this tour. Mr. Frazer states,
that his party met with some ill treatment from
the Indians who live along the sea coast, but that
they were hospitably received by those who
reside farther up the country. The Indians in
that quarter, he says, arc less scattered than those
who live on this side of the Rocky Mountain,
and reside, not in tents, but in houses or huts,
constructed of wood. He also reports, that
the country through which they passed, is
far from being well stocked with beavers, or
any other kind of animals ; and that the Na-
tives subsist principally upon fish.

Thursday^ 22. This afternoon, in company
with a number of persons, in several canoes, I left
Fort Chipewyan; and, after coming two mil. . in
Athabasca Lake, wo entered a small river, which
is about thirty six miles long, and which now runs
out of that lake into Peace river ; but, when
this river is high, it discharges itself into the Lake.

174

HARMON^S JOURNAL,

,;;J

Jil..

I ■XP".

'^k

Friday^ 23. Peace River. This river is about
seventy rods in breadth, and has a gentle current.
It rises on the west side of the Rocky Mountain,
at the distance of nearly a thousand miles from
this. Below this, it assumes the name of Slave
River ; and, after a course of one hundred and
forty or fifty miles, it discharges itself into Great
Slave Lake. *" ^ - - _.„«t..

Sunday, October 2. Fort Vermillion. To this
post, great numbers of Beaver Indians bring their
furs ; and there are a few Iroquois, also, from Can-
ada, who hunt in this vicinity. — About sixty miles
below this, where the river is about thirty rods
wide, there is a fall, of about twenty feet.
Through the whole course, frogi this fall nearly
to the Rocky MourUain, at a little distance from
the river, on each side, there are plains of con-
siderable extent, which afford pasture for nume-
rous herds of the buffaloe, the red deer or elk,
and a few moose. Great numbers of black bead's
are found, that (eed on the berries, wjiich are
abundant on the hills, on both sides of the river.

Friday, 7. Encampment island Fort. This place
is, also established, for the purpose of trading with
the Beaver Indians. They are the only Indians
who live along this noble river, excepting a few
Crees, who occasionally come to this quarter,
from the Lesser Slave Lake.

men, nir

In }

W'T-S

HARMON S JOURNAL.

175

Monday, tO. Dunvegan. This is a well built
fort, pleasantly situated, with plains on each side
of the river, in N. Lat. 56° and W. Lon. 119°.

About the Fort a number of Iroquois hunters,
and a band of Beaver Indians, have encamped,
who have been waiting our arrival, in order to
obtain the articles which they need. At this
place I expect to pass the ensuing winter. There
will, also, be here, Messrs. D. M<^Tavish, J. G.
McTavish, J. McGillivray, thirty two labouring
men, nine women and several children, which
renders this place very different from my solitary
abode the last winter.

Our principal food will be the flesh of the buf-
faloes moose, red deer and bear. We have a tol-
erably good kitchen garden -, and we are in no
fear that we shall want the means of a comforta-
ble subsistence. We have, also, a provision for the
entertainment and improvement of our minds, in
a good collection of books. The gentlemen who
are to remain with me, are enlightened, sociable
and pleasant companions ; and I hope, therefore,
to spend a pleasant and a profitable winter. \

Friday, \4. This morning, my old friend Mr.
F. Goedike, whom I have been happy to raeei at
this place, left us, with his company, for St. Johns,
which is about one hundred and twenty miles up
this river, where he is to pass the ensuing winter.

■r \*'t

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HARMON S JOURNAL.

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Saturday, JYovemher 12. About a foot of snow
has fallen.

Tuesday, December 20. During the last night,
this river froze over.; and, at nine o'clock this
morning, the thermometer was at 4G degret^s be-
low 0.

Wednesday January 4, 1809. Sent the ex-
press to the Lesser Slave Lake, which lies about
two hundred and fifty miles to the south east
from this, whence it will be forwarded to Fort
des Prairies.

Wednesday, March 1. A band of our Indian?
have come in, who went a considerable distance
to the northward, the last autumn, in search of
beavers. They state, that where they were, the
snow fell to an extraordinary depth, in conse-
quence of which, they suffered greatly for want
of provisions. In this vicinity, the snow was, at no
time, more than two feet and an half deep.

Monday, 20. The snow is fast dissolving. —
Mr. A. R. M^Leod and company, have just arriv-
ed from the Encampment Island ; and they bring
the melancholy intelligence of the death of Mr.
Andrew M*^Kenzie, natural son of Sir Alexander
M<=Renzie. He expired at Fort Vermillion, on
the 1st inst.. The death of this amiable young
man, is regretted by all who knew him. — They,
also, inform us, that several Canadians have lost

Harmon's journal*

177

their lives by famine, in the vicinity of Great
Slave Lake. Those who survived, were under
the necessity of subsisting, several days, upon the
flesh of their dead companions. It is reported,
that one man killed his wife and child, in order to
supply himself with food, who, afterwards, himself
starved to death. These Canadians came up into
this part of tije world, yrce, to hunt the beaver,
&c. and they were at too great a distance from
our establishments, to receive any aid from us,
until it was too late, for the greater part of
them.

It is not unfrequently the case, that, the sur-
viving part of a band of the Natives, subsist upon
the flesh of their dead companions, when compel-
led to do it for want of other food, sufficient to
sustain life. I know a woman who, it is said ate
of no less than fourteen of her friends and rela-
tions, during one winter. In the summer season,
the Indians can find food, almost any where ; but
the case is far otherwise, when the ground is cov-
ered with snow, to the depth of several feet, tx^mi

Wednesday^ 22- Sent people to look for birch
bark, to make canoes, to take out our returns
to the Rainy Lake. The greater part of the ca-
noes, in which we bring our merchandise into the
country, will not answer to transport our furs be-
low.

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Harmon's journal.

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Thursday, April 6. The weather is mild.
The people, whom we sent for bark, have re-
turned, with one hundred and eighty fathoms,
which will make nine canoes, that will carry about
two tons burthen, each. Two men will easily
transport one of them on their shoulders, across
the portages.

Tuesday, 11. Geese and bustards begin to
come from the south. % o^ »j^* 5'y**?? vstr?^ wf»s .v^^:

Tuesday, IB. This morning, the ice in this
river broke up. • ■ * " * *^-*f " ^«^"*

Saturday, May 6. The surrounding plains are
all on fire. — We have planted our potatoes, and
sowed most of our garden seeds. — Our people
are preparing to set out for the Rainy Lake.
c Thursday, l\. We, yesterday, sent off eleven
canoes, loaded with the returns of this place and
of St John's ; and, early this morning, Messrs. D.
McTavish, J. G. McTavish, F. Goedike and J.
M<^Gillivray, embarked on board of two light ca-
noes, bound for the Rainy Lake and Fort Wil-
liam. But I am to pass the ensuing summer, at
this place. — The last winter was, to me, the most
agreeable one that I have yet spent in this country.
The greatest harmony prevailed among us, the
days glided on smoothly, and the winter passed,
almost imperceptibly, away.

Tuesday, 16. In the morning, Messrs. Simon

ff V*Hi .'WSl

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

179

Frazer and James M^Dougall and company, arriv-
ed, in four canoes. The former gentleman came
from the Rocky Mountain Portage, which is about
one hundred and eighty miles, up this River. The
later is from New Caledonia, on the west side of
the Rocky Mountain, which is distant from this,
about four hundred and fifty miles. After passing
the most of the day with me, they continued their
route toward the Rainy Lake. , i ; ?,• ,l•^^
■H' Friday, June 2. The seeds which we sowed
in the garden, have sprung up, and grow remark-
ably well. The present prospect is, that straw-
berries, red raspberries, shad berries, cherries, &c.,
will be abundant, this season. ^

This river since the beginning of May, has ris-
en twelve feet perpendicularly ; and it still con-
tinues to rise. This circumstance arises, in part,
from the large quantity of rain, which has lately
fallen, but more, I presume, from the dissolving of
the snow, on and near the Rocky Mountain.
-,. Tuesday^ 13. An Indian has come here, who
says, that one of their chiefs has lately died ; and
he requests that we furnish a chief's clothing to
be put on him, that he may be decently interred ;
and, also, that we would supply a small quantity
of spirits, for his relations and friends to drink, at
his interment ; all of which I have sent, for the
deceased was a friendly Indian. Nothing pleases

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180

Harmon's journal.

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an Indian better, than to see his deceased rela-
tives, handsomely attired ; for he believes that
they will arrive in the other world, in the same
dress, with which they are clad, when they are
consigned to the grave. " ^ ' ^'^ .-:%.^.^^.

Wednesday, July 19. A few days since, Mr.
John Stuart and company, came here, from New
Caledonia, for goods ; and to day, they set out on
their return home. During the few days which
that gentleman passed here, I derived much sat-
isfaction from his society. We rambled about
the plains, "conversing as we went, and now and
then stopping, to eat a few berries, which are
every where to be found. He has evidently read
and reflected much. How happy should I be to
have sqch a companion, during the whole summer.
But such is our mode of life in this country, that
we meet but seldom ; and the time that we remain
together, is short. We only begin to find the ties
of friendship, binding us closely together, when
we are compelled to separate, not to meet again
perhaps for years to come. fz..

Baptiste La Fleur, my interpreter, will accom-
pany Mr. Stuart and his men, as far as St. John's,
in hopes of obtaining some inform^^tion respecting
his brother, who, it is supposed, was killed by
an Indian, the last spring, while on his way
from the Rocky Mountain Portage to St. John's.

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HARMON'S JOURNAL.

181

. 1^1* Wednesday^ July 19, Baptiste La Fleur has
returned from St. Johns, without having been able
to obtain the least intelligence, respecting his
poor brother, and the two Indians, who were com-
ing down the river, in the same canoe with hioi.
We are, therefore, apprehensive that all three of
them have been drowned, in coming down the
rapids, as their canoe was made of the bark
of the spruce fir tree, and was, therefore, very
weak.

Friday, 21. We have cut down our barley ;
and I think it is the finest that I ever saw in any
country. The soil on the points of land, along
this river is excellent.* ''^H**-^^ *•*««» >

The mother of the chief, who died this sum-
mer, and who is far advanced in years, now re-
mains in a tent, at the distance of a few rods from
the fort. Many of the Natives, of both sexes,
when they become old and infirm, and unable to
travel with their rela:ions, who depend upon the
chase for subsisti&nce, ^nd are frequently moving
from place to place, settle down near our forts ;
and it is easy for us to render them more effectual
aid, than their friends could possibly afford them.

Almost every day, just as the sun is sinking
below the horizon, the old lady, above mentioned,
goes to the place where her deceased son, when
alive, was accustomed to encamp, when he came

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HARMON'S JOURNAL.

to the fort, and there weeps, and sings a mournful
kind of song, of which the following is a transla-
tion. " My dear son, come to me ! why do you
leave me, my son?" This she repeats for two
hours together, in the most plaintive and melan-
choly tone imaginable.

It is customary for the women, among the
Beaver Indians, when they lose a near relation, to
cut off a joint of one of their fingers ; and, in con-
sequence of so barbarous a custom, we frequently
see some of their aged women, who want the first
two joints of every finger, on both hands. The
men content themselves, on such occasions, by cut-
ting off their hair, close to their heads, and by
scratching or cutting their faces and arms, fre-
quently in a most barbarous and shocking manner.

The Beaver Indians are a peaceable and quiet
people, and, perhaps, the most honest of any, on
the face of the earth. Theft is rarely committed
among them ; and when one of their tribe is
known to have stolen, he is reg^'ded with a de-
testation, like that which follows a highwayman
in civilized countries. ; jit ?»■* -Sif^Mr r t; ...

Formerly, their clothing was made of the
skins of the bufialoe, moose, and red deer, and
their arms were bows and arrows ; but the great-
er part of them, are now clothed with European
goods, and are supplied with fire arms. They

HARMON S JOURNAL.

183

have, also, iron axes and knives, in the place of
those which were made of stone and of bone.

Friday, September 1. Fowls begin to leave
the north, to go to the southward.

Friday, October 6. As the weather begins to
be cold, we have taken our vegetables out of the
ground, which we find to have been very produc-
tive. '■■'*** •-'*'■'' '■*«JtaM;i*'"4-- ri I ..l'iA>», fiii'i .■ ».■,.. i*>vV

Saturday, 7. Mr. A. R. M^Leod and company,
passed this place, to-day, in three canoes, which
are on their way to the Rocky Mountain Portage,
and thence to New Caledonia. This gentleman
delivered me letters, not only from different per-
sons in this country, but also from my relatives be-
low. To be informed, in this way, of the health
and prosperity of the latter, to attend to the effu-
sions of their hearts, and a detail of many of the
circumstances of their lives, transports me in im-
agination, for a short season, into the midst of
their society, and communicates a pleasure resem-
bling that of personal intercourse. Excellent in-
vention of letters ! thus to enable us to keep up
a kind of conversation with beloved friends, while
separated from them by thousands of miles.

Sunday, February 25, 1810. On the evening
of the 15th Inst, my woman was delivered of two
living boys. They appear, however, to have
been prematurely born j and, from the first, little

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184

HARMON S JOURNAL.

hope was entertained that they would long sur-
vive. One of them died c.t the morning of the
22(3, and the other the last night ; and to day,
they were both buried in the same coffin. He
who gave them life, has taken it away. He had
an undoubted right so to do ; and though his ways
are to us, inscrutable, he has the best reasons for
whatever he does. It becomes us, therefore,
humbly to acquiesce in this afflictive dispensa-
tion. ^WJ' -*?i; :--i'f!t*>^:fla^o/»«>i»ites«-fi4*4jsa^ :
• Thursday y May 3. This day, the ice in the
river broke up. --«--;" v—.f* ..^...i, *

Tuesday, 15. Early this morning, Mr. D. M'^
Tavish and company, set out ior Fort William ;
and this afternoon, Mr. J. Clarke and company,
from St. John's, passed this, on their way to the,
Rainy Lake. But I shall remain, if providence
permit, at this place, during another summer.
The local situation is pleasant ; and we have good
horses, by means of which, I can, at pleasure make
excursions into the surrounding plains, over which
are scattered buffaloes, moose, red deers, ante-
lopes, black and grey bears, &t. I shall have no
intelligent companion, with whom to converse.
But thit deficiency will be in a measure supplied,
by a good collection of books, with which I am
furnished. Were it not for this resource, many ai
dreary day would pass over jne. / ^t ,1 .>.... .,.

and
with

Moui

HARMON 3 JOURNAL.

185

jii Tuesday, 22. Messrs. J. Stuart, and H. Farics
and company, passed this place in four canoes,
with the returns of New Caledonia and Rocky
Mountain Portage ; and. like many others, they
are on their way to the Rainy Lake. , ,
«f*- Saturday, June 23. The last night was so cold,
that the tops of our potatoes were frozen.
This morning, as several red deer were crossing
from the opposite side of the river, one of our
people leaped into a canoe, and pursued them,
and succeeded in killing one of them.

. Thursday, September 13. Two men have ar-
rived from New Caledonia, wiio bring the disa-
greeable intelligence, that salmon, this season, do
not come up the rivers of that region, as usual.
As this kind of fish forms the principal article of
food, both for the Natives and white people, it is
apprehended that they will all be under the ne-
cessity of proceeding towards the Pacific Ocean,
until they find a people who have been more fa-
voured by Providence. I'* !i rMfti
*^^ Wednesday, October 3. We have taken our
potatoes out of the ground, and find, that nine
bushels, which we planted the 10th of may last,
have produced a little more than one hundred and
fifty bushels. The other vegetables in our garden
have yielded an increase, much in the same pro-
portion, which is sufficient proof, that the soil of

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HARMON S JOURNAL.

I '1

I'-

I ! ' - . /•

the points of land, along this river, is good. la-
deed, I am of opinion, that wheat, rye, barley,
oats, pease, &c. would grow well in the plains
around us. *<<■ ^ a'» . . >r. *; .^^^.

Saturday, October 6. Mr. John Stuart and com-
pany, in four canoes, have arrived from Fort
Chipewyan, having on board, goods for the estab-
ishment at the Rocky Mountain Portage and
New Caledonia. This gentleman delivered me
a packet of letters from home, and also a number
of others from gentlemen in this country, one of
which is a joint letter, signed by three of the part-
ners, requesting me to go and superintend the af-
fairs of New Caledonia; or, if I prefer it, to ac-
company Mr. Stuart, as second in command to him,
until the next spring, at which time it is presumed,
that 1 shall have learned sufficient of the state of
things in that country, to assume the whole man-
agement myself. As Mr. Stuart has passed sev-
eral years in that part of the country, the infor-
mation which his experience will enable him to
afford me, will be of great service. I prefer,
therefore, accompanying him, to going alone, es-
pecially in viev/ of the late unfavourable reports
from that country, in regard to the means of sub-
sistence. ^ .

Wednesday, October 10. St. John's. On the
7th Mr. Stuart and myself, with our company,

Harmon's journal.

187

left Duiwegan ; and this evening, we arrived here.
The current in the river begins to be much strong-
er than we found it below Dunvegan. On both
sides of the river, are hills of a considerable
height, which are almost destitute of timber of
any kind. At different places, we saw buffaloes,
red deer, and bears. During our passage to this
place, the weather has been bad. The snow and
rain have been very unpleasant, unprotected
against them, as we are, in our open canoes.
^ .. Thursday, 11. In the early part of the day,
our people were busily employed in preparing
provisions to take with us to New Caledonia.
This afternoon, Mr. Stuart and company em-
barked in three canoes, for the Rocky Moun-
tain Portage. Having a little business still to
transact, I shall pass the night here.

Monday, 15. Rocky Mountain Portage Fort.
We here find nearly eight inches of snow.
Mr. Stuart and company reached here yester-
day ; and I arrived this morning. Between this
place and St. John's, the river is very rapid,
its banks are high, and the country, on both
sides of it, is generally clothed with small tim-
ber. Ever since our arrival, we have been era-
ployed in delivering goods for this place, and di-
viding the remainder among our people, to be
taken on their backs, to the other end of the

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188

Harmon's journal.

V '^:

portage, which is twelve miles over, tiirough a
rough and hilly country. We leave our canoes
and take others, at the other end of the car-
rying place. '- '' ' '- --- -•** rJ'-^^y ..
From the great Slave Lake to this place,
there are few rapids, and only one fall ; but at
several places, the current is very strong. Yes-
terday, we came up one of these places ; and
and as our progress was very slow, I went on
shore alone, to walk along the beach. Having
proceeded some distance, I arrived at a place
which I could not pass, without making a con-
siderable turn into the woods. I, therefore, left
the side of the river, and, after haviog walked
a mile or two, I fell upon a well beaten foot-
path, which I supposed would take me directly
to the fort. After I had followed it for several
miles, I perceived that it had been trodden by
wild animals, and was as I thought, leading me
in a different direction from that which I ought
to have taken. I was unwilling to retrace my
steps ; and 1, therefore, proceeded in a different
direction, hoping soon to come t© the river, far-
ther up than the place where I*left it. I march-
ed a good pace, for a considerable time, through
the snow, eight inches in depth, until I found
myself in a swampy country, thickly wooded,
when the sun was just sinking below the hori-

IIAHMON'S JOURNAL. VI

189

zon. Even while the light lasted, I knew not
which way to steer ; but it soon became so dark,
that I could not distinguish any object, at the
distance of more than ten yards from mc. I had
no means of striking fire ; and without this cheer-
ing element, it would have been uncomfortable
and unsafe encamping. I must have sulfered se-
verely with the cold; and might have been torn
in pieces by wild boasts, which are numerous in
this region. I concluded it best, therefore, to
continue walking, until the lighi of the morning
should enable me to find the ba»«k of the river.
Contrary to my expectation, however, a kind
Providence directed my way, out of that dreary
swamp, where at every step, I sunk up to my
knees in snow, mud and water. <atjiiaji.f*iisJi*i ^t^^i

f*' With great joy, about ten o'clock, I reached
the river side, which I followed down, some dis-
tance, where I found our people, encamped
around a large and cheering fire. During the
greater part of this excursion, the rain poured
down in torrents, tmii 4 a#iaEm ai tiius, .?>i4i)e

•^ Wednesday, .17. JVorth West end of the Rocky
Moimtain Portage. In the morning, Mr. S. my-
self and our company, left the fort ; and, this
evening, we reached this place, where we find
some of ^ur people, repairing four, crazy, old ca-
noes, in which, I should suppose that no one

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190

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

would be willing to embark, who attaches much
value to lifcv The remainder of our hands are
employed in transporting our baggage, which is
still behmd, to this place. They are assisted in
doing this, by some of the Natives, who are Sicau-
nies. They have just returned from the other
side of the Rocky Mountain, where they go to
pass the summer months. During the winter
season, they remain on this srde of the Mountain,
where they find bufifaloes, moose and deer. On
the other sidt, none of these animals, excepting a
few straggling ones, are to be found. >* m:» i*iw»«.-.
«i«t'< The Sicaunies are a quiet, inoffensive people,
whose situation exposes them to peculiar difficulties
and distresses. When they proceed to the west
side of the mountain, the Natives of that region,
who are Tacullies and Atenas, attack and kill
many of them ; and when they are on this side,
the Beaver Indians and Crees, are continually
making war upon them. Being thus s, .Tounded
by enemies, against whom they are too feeble
successfully to contend, they frequently suffer
much for want of food ; for when on the west
side, they dare not, at all times, visit those places,
where fish are in plenty, and when on the east
side, they are frequently afraid to visit those parts,
where animals abound. They are compelled,
therefore, oftentimes to subsist upon the roots,

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

191

which they find in the mountains, and which bare-
ly enable them to sustain life ; and heir emaci-
ated bodies frequently bear witness, to the scan-
tiness of their fttre..-«j i v*i^ '-t-m^ ik?»'.?w^ *» ;«* s<<ip

We here begin to see lofty mountains at a dis-
tance. This place is in the 56°of North Latitude,
and 121° of West Longitude. r -*nr:V - f ->

Monday, 22. It has snovTed and rained, dur-
ing the whole of this day. — We are now in the
heart of the Rocky Mountain, the lofty summits of
which, on each side of the river, tower majestical-
ly toward the heavens, and are perpetually whit-
ened by snows, that are never dissolved, by
solar heat. They are by far the highest moun-
tains that I have ever seen. The timber, which
grows upon them, is chiefly spruce fir, birch and
poplar. It is a curious fact, in the geography of
North America, that so many of the lakes and riv-
ers, on the west side of this lofty range of moun-
tains, discharge their waters through one narrow
passage, in this great barrier, and eventually enter
the North Sea.

Wedriesday, 21^ Although we have found
the current in this river very stroqg, ever
since we left the Rocky Mountain Portage, yet,
until this day, we have found no place where we
were under the necessity of unloading our canoes,
in order to stem the current. This afternoon,

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mi U 'li

, M

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just as v/e got through the mountain, we passed
Finlaj's or the North Branch, which appeals to
he of ahout the same magnitude as the South
Branch, which we are following. These two
branches take their rise in very different direc-
tions. The source of the South Branch, is in the
Rocky Mountain, at the distance of nearly two
hundred miles from the place where we now are.
The North Branch runs out of a very large lake,
called by the Natives Musk-qua Sa-ky-e-gun, or
Bears Lake. This lake, which is so large that the
Indians never attempt to cross it in their canoesi
and which, those who reside at the east end of it,
affirm, extends to the Western Ocean, is situated
nearly west from the place where the two bran-
ches form a junction, at the distance, as is thought
of about one hundred and fifty miles. Both bran-
ches, before their junction, run along ihe foot of
the mountain, as if in search of a passage through.
'■ « Thursday, November 1. M'-Leod^s Lake Fort,
This place is situated in 55** North Latitude, and
124** West Longitude. The country lying be-
tween this place and Finlay's k^ranch, is thickly
covered .with timber, on both sides of the riv-
er ; and, on the right, in coming up, the land is
low and level. Mountain , it is tri»e, are to be
seen ; but they appear at a considerable distance.
We have not seen a large animal, nor even the

Harmon's journal.

193

track of one, since we left the Rocky Moun-
tain Portage. About twenty miles from this
place, we left Peace River, and have come up a
small river, of five or six rods in breadth, which,
a little below this, passes through a small lake.
Here, we leave our canoes, and take our goods
by land, to the establishment at Stuart's Lake,
which place is situated nearly one hundred miles
to the west from this. There fts a passage by
water to that lake ; but it is so circuitous, that
we could not make it in less than twelve or fifteen

,J!v>.ir^';

^k',i-

aays.

McLeod's Lake may be sixty or seventy miles
in circumference. Small white fish and trout are
here taken ; but those who reside here subsist,
during the greater part of the year, on dried
salmon, which are brought in the \vinter, on
sledges, drawn by dogs, from Stuart's Lake.

The Indians who frequent this establishment,
are Sicaunies, and belong to the same tribe with
those, who take their furs to the B.)cky Mountain
Portage. Their dialect differs but little from that
of the Beaver Indians. They appear to be in
wretched circumstances, frequently suffering
much for want of food; and they are often
driven to i;he necessity of subsisting on roots.
There are but few large animals, in this part of
the country ; and when the snow is five or six (eel
26

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194

HARMON S JOURNAL*

deep, as is frequently the case in the winter, few
beavers can be taken, nor can many fish be caught,
in this cold season of the year. Yet after all the
difficulties which these people encounter, in pro-
curing a subsistence, such is their attachment to
the country that gave them birth, that they
would not willingly exchange it, for any other part
of the world. .,M^o,1«i;a,':^>^k£li'**ii«i'i:«;*:^. '^mM,.-. ^^m:^
\-i WedmsdiJJ^^rJn . Stuarfs Lake. This lake is
called by the Natives Nuck-aws-lay, and the es-
tablishment on it, where we now are, is situated
in 54° 30' North Lat ude, and in 125° West Longi-
tude. On the third instant, I left Mr. Stuart at
M^'Leod's Lake, where be designs to pass the
winter; and, accompanied by thirteen labouring
men, I arrived at this place, this afternoon. In
coming here, I passed over an uneven country,
which is in general thickly covered with timber.
We saw, on our way, several lakes or ponds, one
of which was about six miles long. ;^^,..ii,%, ^

This fort sttnds in a very pleasant place, on a
rise of ground, at the east end of .StuaiNt's Lake,
which I am informed, is at least three hundred
miles in circumference. At the distance of about
two hundred rods from the fort, a considergible river
runs out of the lake, where the Natives, who call
themselves Tacullies, have a village or rather a
few small huts, built of wood. At these they re-

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

19.1

maio during the season for taking and drying sal-
mon, on which they subsist^ during the greater
part of the year. - - - - , -

Monday, 12. I have sent J. M. Quesnel, ac-
companied by ten labouring men, with a small as-
sortment of goods, to Frazer's Lake, to reestab-
lish the post there. That lake lies nearly fifty
miles due west from this. We understand that
the Indians, this fall, have taken and dried a con-
siderable quantity of salmon, in that vicinity. I
have also sent people to the other side of this
lake, hoping they will take a few white fish, al-
though the season, in which we usually take them,
is nearly past. ^'* ^— -^

Wednesday, 14. The lake, opposite to
the fort, froze over the last night. To day
Mr. Stuart and company, arrived from M^Leod's
Lake.

Saturday, 17. We have now about eight- in-
ches of snow on the ground.

Sunday, 18. Mr. Stuart and company, have
gone to Frazer's Lake. I accompanied them to
the other side of this lake, where I saw all the
Indians belonging to the village in this vicinity.
They amount to about one hundred souls, are very
poorly clothed, and, to us, appear to bo in wretched
circumstances ; but they are, notwithstanding, con-
tented and cheerful. My interpreter informs me,,

» WM.%^

,t l''¥^

■to U \

196

Harmon's journal.

> i J

! ,.U,l fi.

1* Jf,ll

that their language strongly resembles that spok-
en by the Sicaunles ; and no doubt they former-
ly constituted a part of the same tribe, though
they now ditfer from them, in their manners and
customs. The Sicaunies bury, while the Tacul-
lies, burn their dead. , , ^-- .^-

Monday, 26. The corpse of a woman of this
place, who died on the 20th instant, was burned this
afternoon. While the ceremony was performing,
the Natives made a terrible savage noise, by howl-
ing, crying, and a kind of singing.

Saturday, December 29. Frazer^s Lake. In
coming to this place, I passed through a country,
which is very rough, and thickly covered with tim-
ber, consisting of spruce, fir, poplar, aspin, birch, cy-
press, &c. We crossed one considerable moun-
tain, and several small lakes. ^ '^'
1 his establishment is at the east end of Fra-
zer's Lake, which received its name from that of
the gentleman, who first built here, in 1806. At
the distance of about a mile from this, there runs
out of this lake, a considerable river, where the
Natives have a large village, and where they
take and dry salmon. This lake may be eighty
or ninety miles in circumference, and is well
supplied with t,'hite fish, trout, &c. -s? ^n
Tuesday^ January 1, 1811. This being the
first day of another yea*, our people have passed

Harmon's journal.

197

it, according to the custom of the Can^idians, in
drinking and fighting. Some of the principal In-
dians -of this place, desired us to allow them to re-
main at the fort, that they might see our people
drink. As soon as they began to be a little intox-
icated, and to quarrel among themselves, the Na-
tives began to be apprehensive, that something
unpleasant might befal them, also. They, there-
fore hid themselves under .beds, and elsewhere,
saying, that they thought the white people had
run mad, for they appeared not to know what
they were about. They perceived that those
who were the most beastly in the early part of
the day, became the most quiet in the latter part,
in view of which, they exclaimed, *' the senses of
the white people have returned to them again,"
and they appeared not a little surprised at the
change ; for. it was the first time, that they had
ever seen a person intoxicated.

Sunday, 27. This day the Natives have burn-
ed the corpse of one of their chiefs, who died in
the early part of this month. Shortly after his
death, one of his nieces painted her face with Ver-
million; and, in other respects arrayed herself, in
the gayest manner possible. Her mother, observ-
ing this unbecoming conduct, reproved her in tho
following manner. " Are you not ashamed, my
daughtmV said she, '' to appear so gaily clad, so

r% «■

• :M

\ i

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M h*

. iW'^!k '

198

Harmon s journal.

*llf *

soon after the deccare of your uncle ? You ought
rather to daub your face with black, and to cut
your hair short to your head." This reproach for
the apparent destitution of natural afifection, so af-
flicted the girl, that, soon after, she went into a
neighbouring wood, and hung herself, from the
limb of a tree. Happily for her, however, some
people passed that way, before she had long been
in this situation, and took her down. She was, at
first, senseless ; but soon after recovered. — Instan-
ces of suicide, by hanging, frequently occur, among
the women of all the tribes, with whom 1 have
been acquainted ; but the men are seldom known
to take away their own lives.
' Wednesday, 30. Two nights since, an Indian
cut a hole in a window in my room, which is made
of parchment, at the distance of not more than
two (eet from the foot of my bed, where I lay
asleep, and took from a table, near it, several ar-
ticles of clothing. The next morning, two other
Indians brought back to me a part of the stolen
property, and informed me who the thief was, and
where he could be found. Soon after, accompa-
nied by my interpreter, I went, and found the
young villain, in a hut under ground, along with
about twelve others, who are as great thieves as
himself. I told him, that, as he was young, I hop-
ed this was the first time he had ever been

guilty of
turn all tl
would for
in future
might dc{
returned
dians broi
which ha(
ammuniti(
Nearly al
them, are
are few a
^ Fridax
we found
any other

Mondi
er, has tal
chiefs, as
tribe, evei
, ; Fridm
ing, I lef
Lake, and

Mondi
seems to
ducks of 1
with us ;
to make t

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

199

i'il

1 ought

to cut

ach for

1, so af-

into a

3111 the

, some

ig been

was, at

-Instan-

, among

1 have

known

Indian

} made

} than

e I lav

ral ar-

other

stolen

as, and

3ompa-

id the

with

ves as

I hop-

• been

guilty of theft ; and, provided he would re-
turn all the property which he had taken away, I
would forgive this offence ; but if he should ever
Id future be guilty of any misconduct toward us, he
might depend on being severely punished. I then
returned to our house ; and, shortly after, two In-
dians brought me the remainder of the property
which had been stolen, and I ^ave them a little
ammunition, for having made known the thief. —
Nearly all the Tacullies, or Carriers as we call
them, are much addicted to pilfering; but there
are few among them who dare steal from us.

Friday, February 15. Yesterday and to-day,
we found the cold to be more intense, than at
any other time this season. - -t

Monday, 18. Baptiste Bouche, my interpret-
er, has taken the daughter of one of the Carrier
chiefs, as a wife. She is the first woman of that
tribe, ever kept by any of the white people.

Friday, Jtpril 5. Stuarfs Lake, In the morn-
ing, I left and abandoned the post at Frazer's
Lake, and arrived here this evening.

Monday, 15. The weather is pleasant, and
seems to presage an early spring. — Swans and
ducks of several kinds, have passed the winter
with us ; but bustards and geese, now first begin
to make their appearance

•'{-'••

^■-^j

\m\im

ly-r-fl.

200

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

fll .'

Sunday i 21. A ^ days since, I sent the
greater part of my pet^.e to M*^Leod's Lake, to
prepare for tKe voyaore from that place 4o the
Rainy Lake. Tomorrow, I shall leave this place
myself, in company with Mr. Quesnel and others,
for M*'Leod's Lake. I shall take with me my lit-
tle son George, who was three years old last De-
cember, for the purpose of sending him to my
friends in the United States, in order that he may
receive an English education. Mr. J. M. Quesnel
will have the care oi him, until he shall arrive at
Montreal.

Wednesday, 24. M^Leod'^s Lake* I find Mr.
Stuart and the men very busy, in preparing for
the voyage to the Rainy Lake.— The spring
here is less advanced, by fifteen days, than it
was at Stuart's Lake. This great difference of
climate, I conclude, is owing to the fact, that
this place lies nearer the mountains*

Wednesday, May 8. People have just ar-
rived from Stuart's Lake, who inform me that
the mother of ray son was delivered on the
25th ultimo, of a daughter, whom I name Polly
Harmon.

As the ice in Peace River begins to be bad,
it is expected that a few days hence the navi-
gation will be opened, when Messrs. Stuart,
Quesnel, and their company, will embark, with

> .\

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ri si .

Harmon's journal.

201

the returns of this place, for the Rainy Lake.
Tomorrow, I design to return to Stuart's Lake,
where I expect to pass the ensuing summer. But
my attention is chiefly taken up with the separa-
tion, which is soon to take place between me and my
beloved son. A few months hence, he will be at
a great distance from his affectionate father ; and,
it may be, I shall never more see him, in this
world. No consideration could induce me to send
him down, especially while he is so young, except-
ing the thought, that he will soon be under the
fostering care of my kind relatives, who will be
able to educate him much better than it would be
possible for me to do, in this savage country. As
I do that which I apprehend will be for the ben-
efit of my little son, so I earnestly pray, that God
would graciously protect him, in his absence from
me. '^ ■-^*' ^.i^rn:r>;' i^: n :■•:.• r^ -t.* ■

* Sunday, 12. Stuart^s Lake, Here, I arrived
this afternoon, after having passed four of the
most disagreeable days that I ever experienced.
My spirits were dejected, in view of the depart-
ure of my child ; the snow, which was three feet
in depth, had become softened by the late warm
weather, so that walking was attended with great
fatigue ; I broke my snow shoes, on the way,
which the Indian lad with me mended as well as
our circumstances would permit, though but poor*

202

HARMON B JOL'KNAL.

' ki

\y ; and finally we had scarcely any thing to eat.
I am happy, therefore, to find myself at a place
where I can enjoy a little repose, after such an
unpleasant jaunt.

Tuesday^ 21. This afternoon, the ice in this
lake broke up. Musquetoes begin to come about ;
and troublesome companions they arc in the wil-
derness, ^'-i^mt- ]>^i^.P ':.^ -y^.

Wednaday, 22. As the frost is now out of
the ground, we have planted our potatoes, and
sowed barley, turnips, &c. which are the first that
we ever sowed, on this west side of the mountain.
— We now take trout in this lake, with set hooks
and lines, in considerable numbers ; but they are
not of a good kind. — It is, perhaps, a little remark-
able, that pike or pickerel have never been found
in any of the lakes and rivers, on the west side of
the Rocky Mountain.

Tuesday, June 11. Three Indians have arriv-
ed from Sy-cus, a village, lying about one hundred
and thirty miles down this river, who say, tliat it
is reported by others, from farther down, that
there is a very extraordinary and powerful being
on his way here, from the sea, who, when he ar-
rives, will transform me into a stone, as well as
perform many other miraculous deeds ; and the
simple and credulous Natives fully believe this re-
port. , **;

'Tn -V-

HARMON S JOURNAL.

203

Sunday^ 16. A nuoiber of Indians have arriv-
ed, in six large wooden canoes, from the other end
of this lake ; and among them are two, a father
and his son, who say, that they belong to a tribe,
who call themselves Nate-ote-tains. These are
the first of that nation, whom we have ever seen
here. They state, that their tribe is numerous,
and scattered, in villages, over a large extent of
country, lying directly west from this ; and that it
is not more than five or six days' march, to their
nearest village. They, also, inform us, that a
large river passes through their country, and at
no considerable distance from it, enters the Pacific
Ocean. They, likewise, say, that a number of
white people come up that river, in barges, every
autumn, in order to trade with the Indians^ who
reside along its shores. But I could not learn
from them, to what nation those white people be-
long. I imagine, however, that they are Ameri-
cans, who come round Cape Horn, to carry on,
what is called a coasting trade ; for, I cannot learn
that they ever attempted to make establishments,
along the sea coast. -. i .

Tuesday, July 2. Yesterday, five Sicaunieg
came here, from M^Leod's Lake, who form a
small war party. Their leader, or war chief de-
sired me to allow them to go where they might
think proper ; upon which, I inquired of them,

, h]

'c'

204

Harmon's journal.

|.-»;,Ji,

k ^"^

whither they wished to direct their course, and
wh?t their business was. The speaker repHed,
that, when they left their lands, their intention
was to go and try to take a scalp or two fronri the
Indians of Frazer's Lfike, " who," he added," have
done us no injury. But we have lost a relation ;
and we must try to revenge his death, on sOiOae
one." — This is a custom common to a greater or
less extent to all the tribes. -">

' I asked him whether he supposed that v^e
supplied them with guns and ammunition, to ena-
ble them :o destroy their fellow creatures, or to
kill the beaver, &;c. I added^ that should they,
in the fall, bring in an hundred scalps, they could
not, with them all, procure a pint of rum, or a
pipe full of tobacco ; but, if they would bring bea-
rer skins, they would be able to purchase the ar-
ticles which they would need. After reflecting
for some time on what I had said, the speaker in-
formed me, that they would, in compliance with
my advice, return and hunt the beaver ; and they
performed their promise, by proceeding immedii'
ately to their own lands.

Monday^ 29. Several days since, one of our
men, who remains at M<=Leod's Lake, came here
with the information, that there were Indians
lurking around that fort, waiting, as was sup-
posed, for a favourable opportunity to attack

HARMON'S JOURNAL

205

'.-'*■:•

it. I, accordingly, went over, hoping that I should
be able to ascertain who thej were ; but 1 have
not been able to obtain the least information re-
specting them. Probably, they had not courage
to make the attack, and have returned to their
own lands* x-u^j^'' :'ii,«*f**»>ii.'^^(»iB'

^. Shad berries begin to ripen, which is about
twenty days later than they ripen, in the same
Latitude, on the east side of the Rocky Moun-
tain. •- -'- -'' - •

Friday, August 2. Our whole stock of provis-
ions in the fort, for ten persons, consists of live sal-
mon, only. It is impossible, at this season, to take
fish out of this lake or river. Unless the salmon
from the sea, soon make their appearance, our
condition will be deplorable* iS '

Saturday, 10. Sent all our people, consisting
of men, women, and children, to gather berries at
Pinchy, a village about twelve miles distant froitj
this, toward the other end of this lake. At no
great distance from that village, as I am informed,
there is a small lake, out of which the Nativei?
take small fish, which very much resemble a sal-
mon in shape and in flavour, which are not more
than six inches long. They are said to be very
palatable ; but, if they were not so, they would
be very acceptable to us, in our present circum-
stances. *

Vflft^'

206

Harmon's journal.

' Thursday^ 22. One of the Natives has caught
a salmon, wliich is joyful intelligence to us all ; for
we hope and expect, that, in a few days, we shall
have them in abundance. These fish visit, to a
greater or less extent, all the rivers in this region,
and form the principal dependence of the inhabi-
tants, as the means of subsistence.

Monday^ September 2. We now have the
common salmon in abundance. They weigh from
five to seven pounds. There are, also, a few^ of a
larger kind, which will weigh sixty or seventy
pounds. Both of them are very good, when just
taken out of the water. But, when dried, as they
are by the Indians here, by the heat of the sun, or
in the smoke of a fire, they are not very palatable.
When salted, they are excellent, t H«*a «r».»<h^'.

As soon as the salmon come into this lake,
they go in search of the rivers and brooks, that
fall into it ; and these streams they ascend so far
as there is water to enable them to swim ; and
when they can proceed no farther up, they re-
main there and die. None were ever seen to de-
scend these streams. They are found dead in such
numbers, in some places, as to infect the atmos-
phere, with a terrible stench, for a considerable
distance round. But, even when they are in a
putrified state, the Natives frequently gather

%.*-■<-!*-

■Mt-v*: fi,;, ■

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

207

theni up and eat them, apparently, with as great
a relish, as if they were fresh, •^•^i^ :

Tuesday, 17. Between nine and ten o'clock,
this forenoon, the sun was eclipsed, for nearly
half an hour, which event alarmed the Natives
greatly ; for they considered it as foreboding some
great calamity, about to fall upon them. They
therefore cried and howled, making a savage noise.
Their priests or magicians took their hands full of
swan's down, and blew it through their hands to-
ward the sun, imploring that great luminary to ac-
cept of the offering, thus made to him, to be put
on the head of his sons, when engaged in dancing,
and to spare the Indians. They suppose that the
8un has children, who, like those of the Carrie! j,
are fond of putting swan's down on their heads,
when they dance. — I explained to them the cause
of the darkness ; at which they appeared both
pleased and astonished, and acknowledged tha<
my account of the subject was rational, but won-
dered how I could obtain a knowledge of such
hidden and mysterious things.

Monday, 23. Bustards and geese begin to
come from the north. '**

In the early part of the day, I found it neces-
sary to chastise the chief of this village, with con-
siderable severity. He is the first Indian that I

.* ^h;

i f

r-.h^') **■' i^^^'"

208

Harmon's journal.

t>'

have ever struck during a residence of eleven
years, in this savage country. j »„'ir* /s

^ The following circumstances attended tiiis
transaction. The name of the Indian, who was
chastised, was Quas. He had a friend, who was
a v/o^thless fellow, to whom he wished me to ad-
vance goods on credit, which I declined doing for
two reasons. The first was, that I did not be-
lieve that the Indian would ever pay me for
them. The other was, that Quas wished to make
the Indians believe, that he had a great deal of
influence over us, which would be prejudicial to
our interest, if he should effect it. He tried every
method, which he could devise, to persuade me to
advance the goods, but to no purpose ; for I per-
ceived what was his object. He then told me,
that he saw no other difference between me and
himself, but this only : * you,' said he, ' know how
to read and write ; but I do not. Do not I man-
age my affairs as well, as you do yours ? You
keep your fort in order, and make your slaves,'
meaning my men, ' obey you. You send a great
way off for goods, and you are rich and want Cot
nothing. But do not I manage my affairs as well
as you do yours .'' When did you ever hear that
Qufts was in danger of starving ? When it is the
pro|>er season to hunt the beaver, I kill them ;
and of their flesh I make feasts for my relations.

,....vi

Harmon's journal.

209

I, often, feast all the Indians of my village ; and,
sometimes, invite people from afar off, to come
and partake of the fruits of my huntf I know
the season when fish spawn, and, then send my
women, with the nets which they have made, to
take them. I never want for any thing, and my
family is always well clothed/' — In this manner,
the fellow proceeded, for a considerable time.

I told him that what he had said, concerning
himself and his family, was true ; yet, I added, ' I
am master of my own property, and shall dispose
of it as I please. * Well,' said he, * have you ever
been to war ? ' No,' replied I, * nor do I desire to
take the life of any of my fellow creatures.' * I
have been to war,' continued he, ' and have
brought home many of the scalps of my enemies.'
I was now strongly tempted to beat him, as his
object manifestly was, to intimidate me. But I
wished to avoid a quarrel, which might be evil in
its consequences ; and especially to evince to the
Indians, who were spectators of what passed be-
tween us, that I was disposed to live in peace
with them. — Qvjias proceeded to try me another
way. He asked me if I would trust him with a
small piece of cloth, to make him a breech cloth ?
This I consented to do, and went into the store,
to measure it off. He followed me together with
«ny interpreter, and. ten or twelve other Indians.
27

h I

* S-ja -k i^jH-i

210

flARMON'S JOURNAL.

I took up a piece of cloth, and asked him, if he
would have it from that ? He answered, no. I
then made a similar inquiry, respecting another
piece, to which he made a similar reply. This
persuaded me, that his only object was to provoke
me to quarrel with him. I, therefore, threw
down the cloth, and told him, if he would not
have that, he should have this, (meaning a square
yard stick which I had in my hand) with which
I gave him a smart blow over the head, which
cut it, considerably. I then sprang over the
counter, and pelted him, for about five minutes,
during which time, he continually called to his
companions, all of whom had knives in their
hands, to come and take me off. But, they re-
plied that they could not, because there were
two other white people in the room, who would
prevent them. It was happy for us that these
Indians stood in such fear of us ; for there were
only four white men, at this time in the fort,
and they could easily have murdered us. — As
Quas and his company left us, he told me that
he would see me again tomorrow, when the sun
should be nearly in the south, meaning between
ten and twelve o'clock.

Monday, October 7. The next day after I
chastised the Indian, as above described, he sent
one of his wives to request me, either to come

\ ..

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

211

and see him, or to send him some medicine. I.
therefore, sent him some salve, with which to
dress the wound in his head. — A few days after,
he became so well as to be able to hunt ; and
he killed and brought home a number of bea-
vers, with which he yesterday made a feast.
He sent an invitation to me to attend this feast ;
and I concluded that it would be necessary for
me to go, or he might think that I was afraid
of him. I, accordingly, put a brace "^ pistols
in my pocket, and hung a sword by my side,
and directed my interpreter to arm himself in a
similar manner, and to accompany me. We pro-
ceeded to the house of the chief, where we found
nearly an hundred Indians, assembled. As soon
as we arrived, he requested us to be seated. He
then rose, and stood in the middle of the circle,
formed by the guests, and with a distinct and
eleWted voice, made a long harangue, in which
he did not forget to make mention of the beat-
ing which he had lately received from me. He
said, if it had been given to him by any person
but the Big Knife (the name which they give to
me) he would have either lost his own life, or
have taken that of the person attacking him.
But now, he said, he considered himself as my
wife ; for that was the way, he said, that he
treated his women (of whom he has four) whein

i..»i

212

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'ill

■fll

din

they behave ill. He said, that he thanked nae
for what I bad done, for it had given him sense.
— To this 1 replied, that, in a remote country,
I had left my friends and relations, who want-
ed for none of the good thir^ of this world,
and had come a great distance, with such arti-
cles as the Indians greatly needed, and which I
would exchange for their furs, with which I could
purchase more ; and in this way, I could always
supply their necessities ; that I considered the
Indians as my children, and that I must chastise
them when they behaved ill, because it was for
their good. * You all know,' said I, ' that I treat
good Indians well, and that I strive to live in
peace with you.' — Yss,' replied the father-in-law
to the chief, * Big Knife speaks the truth. My
son had no sense, and vexed him, and therefore
deserved the beating: which he has received.' —
Quas then told the Indians, that if he ever Mard
of any of them laughing at him for the beating
which he had received, he would make them
repent of their mirth.

After this the feast was served up in a man-
lier, which I shall describe in another place. —
It will be «een, by thic account, that the white
people have a great ascendency over the Indians ;
for, I believe that this chief is not destitute of
bravery. But it k very necessary, in order to

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

^ 213

secure ourselves from aggression, that we mani-
fest that we are not afraid of them.

Saturday, 12. During the last three dajs, it
has snowed continually ; and it has fallen to the
depth of nearly two feet. ^^

Monday, 21. We have now in our store,
twenty five thousand salmon. Four in a day are
allowed to each man. — I have sent some of our
peaple to take white fish.

Thursday, 31. Two men have arrived from
M*^Leod'9 Lake, and have delivered me several
letters, one of which, from Mr James M^^Dougall,
who accompanied our people from the Rainy
Lake, informs me, that the canoes were stopped
by the ice, on the 12th inst. about three days'
march below M'^Leod's Lake, where they still re-
main, together with the property which they bad
on board.

Saturday, JSTovemher 16. Our fishermen have
returned to the fort, and inform me that they
have taken seven thousand white fisb. These
fish, which, singly, will weigh from three to four
pounds, were taken in nine nets, of sixty fathoms
each.

i> Sunday, 17. Clear and cold. The last night,
the lake, opposite to the fort, froize over. — ^Tlie
greater part of the snow^ which fell in October, is
now disiolved. 1

214

Harmon's journal.

Friday, December 13. On the 20th ult. I set
off, accompanied by twenty of my people, for the
goods which were stopped by the taking of the
ice in Peace River, the last October. We all re-
turned this evening accompanied by Mr. M^^^Dou-
gall, who has come to pass the holidays with us.
Our goods were drawn on sledges by dogs. Each
pair of dogs drew a load of from two hundred, to
two hundred and fifty pounds, besides provisions
for themselves and their driver, which would
make the whole load about three hundred pounds.
I have seen many dogs, two of which would draw
on a sledge, five hundred pounds, twenty miles, in
five hours. F^rashort distance, two of our stout-
est dogs will draw more than a thousand pounds
weight. In short, there is no animal, with which
I .m acquainted, that would be able to render
half the service that our dogs do, in this country,
where the snow is very deep in the winter season.
They sink but little into it, in following a person
on snow shoes.

Wednesday, January I, IS12. This being the
first day of the year, Mr. M^Dougall and I dined
with all our people, in the hall. After our re-
past was ended, I invited several of the Sicauny
and Carrier chiefs, and most respectable men, to
partake of the provisions which we had left ; and
I was surprised to see them behave with much de-

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215

•t

cency, and even propriety, while eating, and while
drinking a flagon or two of spirits.

After they had finished their repast, they
smoked their pipes, and conversed rationally, on
the great difference which there is, between the
manners and customs of civilized people, and those
of the savages. They readily conceded, that ours
are superior to theirs.

Tuesday^ 7. On the 4th inst. accompanied by
several af our people, I set off for Tachy, a vil-
lage, toward the other end of this lake. We
there saw a number of Indians, who appear to be
very indolent, and who are, of course, wretchedly
clad, and not better fed. From that place, wc
proceeded up a considerable river, about half a
days' march, to another village, inhabited chiefly
by Sicaunies, who appear to be more industrious
than the inhabitants of the former village ; and,
therefore, they are better clothed, and live more
comfortably. Their principal food consists of sal-
mon, white fish, and trout ; and they, at times,^
kill a beaver, or a cariboo. The country around
the lake is hilly ; but, on both sides of this river,
it is level ; and from the appearance of the tim-
ber which grows on it, I should think that the
soil is not bad.

Monday^ 13. On the 9th inst. a Sicauny died
at this place ; and the following circumstances at-

r^'

216

HARMON S JOURNAL.

tended his Incineration, to day. — The corpse was
placed on a pile of dry wood, with the face up-
wards, which was painted and bare. The body
was covered with a robe, made of beaver skins,
and shoes were on the feet. In short, the deceas-
ed was clothed in the same manner as when alive,
only a little more gaily. His gun and powder
horn, together with every trinket which he had
possessed, were placed by his side. As they were
about to set fire to the wood, on which the de-
ceased lay, one of his brothers asked him if he
would ever come among them again ; for, they
suppose that the soul of a person, after the
death of the body, can revisit the earth, in
another body. They must, therefore, believe in
the immortality, though they connect with it
the transmigration, of the soul.

The deceased had two wives, who were
placed, the one at the head, and the other at
the foot of the corpse ; and there they lay un-
til the hair of their heads was nearly consum-
ed by the flames, and they were almost suffo-
cated by the smoke. When almost senseless,
they rolled on the ground, to a little distance
from the fire. As soon as they had recovered
a little strength, they stood up, and began to
strike the burning corpse with both their hands
alternately ; and this disgusting, savage cere mo-

Harmon's journal.

217

••: 'm

ny was continued, until the body was nearly
consumed. This operation was interrupted by
their frequent turns of fainting, arising from the
intensity of the heat. If they did not soon re-
cover from these turns, and commence the op-
eration of striking the corpse, the men would
seize them by the little remaining hair on their
heads, and push them into the flames, in order
(o compel them to do it. This violence was
especially used toward one of the wives of the
deceased, who had frequently run away ^rom
him, while he was living.

"V When the body was nearly burned to ashes,
the wives of the deceased gathered up these ash-
es, and the remaining pieces of bones, which they
put into bags. These bags they will be compell-
ed to carry upon their backs, and to lay by their
sides, when they lie down at night, for about two
years. The relations of the deceased will then
make a feast, and enclose these bones and ashes
in a box, and deposit them under a shed, erected
for that purpose, in the centre of the village.
Until this time, the widows are kept in a kind of
slavery, and are required to daub their faces over
with some black substance, and to appear clothed
with rags, and frequently to go without any cloth-
ing, excepting round their waists. But, at the

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.ft-f 't

llNcLvy

time of this feast, they are set at liberty from
these disagreeable restraints.

Thursday, 30. On the 17th inst. accompanied
by Mr. M'-Dougall, twelve of my men and two
Carriers, I set out on a journey to the territory of
the Nnte-ote-tains, a tribe of Indians, who have ne-
ver had any intercourse with white people, and few
of whom have ever seen them. After travelling,
with all possible expedition, during seven days,
generally on lakes, we arrived at their first village.
The inhab'tarts were not a little surprised and
alar'iTcLl to seo people come among them, whose
complexion was so different from their own. As
their village stands on a rise of ground, near to a
large lake, they saw us coming, when we were at
a considerable distance from them ; and the men,
women and children came out to meet us, all of
whom were armed, some with bows and arrows,
and others with axes and clubs. They offered no
offence ; but, by many savage gestures they mani-.
fested a determination to defend themselves, in
case they were attacked. We soon dissipated
their fears, by informing them, that we came not
to make war upon them, but to supply them with
articles which they needed, and to receive their
furs in exchange. They treated us with much
respect and with great hospitality. , , ,^

%i;.

HARMON S JOURNAL,

219

-*^*-'tThe day following, we proceeded on our route,
and, during our progress, we saw four more of
their villages. At the second of these, we found
the two men who, the last summer, visited my
fort. , These people wer« not, therefore, surpris-
ed at seeing us among them ; for, I had promised
these two men, that, in the course of the winter,
I would visit their country. They gave us the
same account as they had before given at the fort,
of the white people, who come up a large river,
already mentioned. And to convince us of the
truth of the account, they showed us guns, cloth,
axes, blankets, iron pots, &c. which they obtained
from their neighbours, the Atenas, who purchase
them directly of the white people. > :i>«**ies #:^^ *k»W.
'**' The five villages which we visited, contain
about two thousand inhabitants, who are well
made and robust. They subsist principally on sal-
mon, and other small fish. The salmon here have
small scales, while those at Stuart's Lake, have
none. — The clothing of these people, is mudti Kke
that of the Carriers. I procured from them ves-
sels, curiously wrought, of the smaller roots of the
spruce fir, in different shapes. Some of them are
open, like a kettle, and will hold water They
also, let me have a blanket or rug, which was
manufactured by the Atenas, of the wool of a kind
of sheep or goat. These animals are said to be

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220

Harmon's journal.

numerous, on the mountains, in their country. —
3 They told us that we had seen but a small part of
the Nate-ote-tains, who, they say, are a numerous
cribe. They speak a language peculiar to them-
selves, though the greater part of them under-
stand that, spoken by the Carriers. .^^
4 J* The country, which we travelled over, in this
route, is generally level. Few mountains are to
be seen. A heavy growth of timber evinces, that
the soil is good. — We saw no large animals, ex-
cepting the cariboo; but we were informed, that
black bears, and other kinds of the larger animals,
exist in considerable numbers, in that region.
mr^ Sunday, February 23. I have just returned
from a jaunt of eight days, to Frazer's Lake and
Stills. The latter place lies about twenty miles
leyond the former. Wherever we went, the Na-
tives, as usual, appeared to be pleased to see us,
and treated us hospitably. ,, ,,**,,, . .^.j-r-f
Monday, April 6. Six Indians have arrived
fro&i Frazer's Lake, who delivered to me a let-
ter, written by Mr. David Thompson, which is
dated August 28th, 1811, at Ilk-koy-ope Falls,
on the Columbia River. It informs me, that
this gentleman, accompanied by seven Canadians,
descended the Columbia River, to the place
where it enters the Pacific Ocean, where they
arrived on the I6th of July. There they found

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

221

a number of people, employed in building a fort
for a company of Americans, who denominate
themselves the Pacific Fur Company. He also
writes, that Mr. Alexander M'^Kay and others,
have proceeded to the northward, in the vessel
that brought them there, on a coasting trade. —
Mr. Thompson, after having remained seven days
with the American people, set out on his return
to his establishments, which are near the source
of the Columbia River. From one of these posts,
he wrote the letter above mentioned, and deliver-
ed it to an Indian, to bring to the next tribe, with
the direction, that they should forward it to the
next, and so on, until it should reach this place.
This circumstance accounts for the great length of
time, that it has been on the way ; for t! e dis-
tance that it hes come, might be travelled over,
in twenty five or thirty days.

Monday f May 11. This morning I returned
from M^Leod's Lake, where I have been to send
off my people, who are to go to the Rainy Lake.
While there, one of my men, Pieere Lambert,
while crossing a small lake on a sledge, fell through
the ice ; and, before his companions who were
near could extricate him, he was drowned. The
day following, his corpse was brought to the fort
and interred. i m?? r^ifst-^i ? Kf ^r .■>

On my way home, the walking was exceeding-

*;■ ^

.'Hi

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222

Harmon's journal.

^M^

\y bad. The snow was three feet deep, and the
weather was so mild, that it had become very
soft. About ten miles from this place, I left my
guide, and came on forward of him. I had not
proceeded far, before I wandered from my proper
course. I might have followed my tracks back;
but this I was unwilling to do, and I continued,
therefore to wander about during the remainder
of the day. The night came upon me, while I
was in a thick wood ; and, as I had nothing to eat,
I could only kindle up a fire, and endeavour to
solace myself, by smoking my pipe. — I passed the
greater part of the night in melancholy reflections
on the unpleasant condition, into which I had
brought myself, by leaving my guide. Very ear-
ly in the morning, I left my fire, and commenced
travelling, without knowing what direction to take.
The sun was concealed by clouds, and the rain
fell copiously. Before I had gone far, I perceiv-
ed, at no great distance from me, a pretty high
hill, which I at length ascended, with much diffi-
culty. Froto its summit, I was cheered by a pros-
pect of this lake, at a considerable distance from
me. Having ascertained the course which I must
take, I descended into the valley, and took the fol-
lowing method to keep in the direction to the fort.
I at first marked a tree ; and from that, singled
out one forward of me, to which 1 proceeded :

HARMON S JOURNAL.

223

and by means of these two fixed upon another, in
a straight line ahead ; and continued the same
operation, for several hours, until, with great joy,
I reached the fort. And now, therefore, I desire
to return thanks to kind Providence, for having
once more directed my steps to my home and my
family. ._,, _., . ..^ *

Thursday^ 21. The last night, an east winu
drove the ice to the other end of this lake.

» ii Tuesday^ 23. This morning, the Natives caught
a sturgeon that would weigh aboui two hundred
and fifty pounds. We frequently see in this lake,
those .which are much larger, which we cannot
take, for the want of nets, sufficiently strong to
hold them. . ^«j5r

Saturday, August 15. Salmon begin to coma
up this river. As soon as one is caught, the Na-
tives always make a feast, to express their joy at
the arrival of these fish. The person, who first
sees a salmon in the river, exclaims, Ta-loe nas-
lay ! Ta-loe nas-lay ! in English, Salmon have ar-
rived ! Salmon have arrived ! and the exclamation
is caught with joy, and uttered with animation, by
every person in the village. '^ * -

Wednesday, September 2. Mr. M<^DougaIl and
company, who came here on the 2dth ult. set out
this morning, on their return home, to M^^Leod'i^
Lake. This visit has afforded me much satisfac-

224

HARMON S JOURiNAL.

•.-''

tion. In this lonely part of the world, we enjoy
the pleasures of social intercourse, when we are
permitted to spend a little time with a friend,
with the highest relish. '^-^ '** • ^^'^ ^-um^ . .»..

Sunday^ October 25. Early this morning, my
people returned from the Rainy Lake. By them
I have received letters from home, which have
given me more satisfaction than I can express.
My friends are in good health, and my beloved
son George has arrived safely among them. For
these blessingt:>, I cannot be sufficiently thankful,
unless a merciful God is graciously pleased to
change my heart of stone into a heart of flesh.
iiu Friday, JYovember 6. We have now about six
inches of snow on the ground. — On the 27th ult.
I set out for M<=Leod's Lake, where I arrived on
the 29th. I there found Mr. John Stuart, who,
with his company, arrived the day before, from
Fort Chipewyan. His men are on their way to
the Columbia River, down which they will pro-
ceed under Mr. J. G. M<^Tavish. The coming
winter, they will pass near the source of that riv-
er. At the Pacific Ocean, it is expected that they
will meet Donald M^^Tavish, Esq. and company,
who were to sail from England, last October, and
proceed round Cape Horn to the mouth of Colum-
bia River. This afternoon Mr. Stuart and my-
self, with our company, arrived at this place,

Harmon's journal.

225

(Stuart's Lake) where both of us, God willing,
shall pass the ensuing winter. With us, are twen-
ty one labouring men, one interpreter, and five wo-
men, besides children. ' ** '
Saturday, January 23, 1813. On the 29th ult.
Mr. Stuart and myself, with the most of our peo-
ple, went to purchase furs and salmon, at Frazer's
Lake and Still&s. The last fall, but few salmon
came up this river. At the two places, above
mentioned, we were so successful as to be able to
procure a sufficient quantity. While at Frazer's
Lake, Mr. Stuart, our interpreter and myself,
came near being massacreed by the Indians of
that place, on account of the interpreter's wife,
who is a native of that village. Eighty or ninety
of the Indians armed themselves, some with guns,
some with bows and arrows, and others with axes
and clubs, for the purpose of attacking us. By
mild measures, however, which I have generally
found to be the best, in the management of the In-
dians, we succeeded in appeasing their anger, so
that we suffered no injury ; and we finally sepa-
rated, to appearance, as good friends, as if nothing
unpleasant had occurred. Those who are ac-
quainted with the disposition of the Indians, and
who are a little respected by them, may, by hu-
mouring their feelings, generally, controul them,
almost as they please. >^i^t.im0^Hiti^^--

?'fe

226

HARMON S JOURNAL.

Sunday, February 21. Rocky Mountain Port-
age Fort. Here I arrived this afternoon, accom-
panied bj five Canadians and one Carrier. We
left Stuart^s Lake on the 6th inst and are on our
way to Dunvegan, where I am going to transact-
* some business with Mr. John M<^Gillivray, who is
there. As the mountains, on both sides of the
river, for the distance of seventy or eighty miles,
are very lofty, there is generally a strong wind
passing, either up or down the stream, which, at
this season, renderrs it extremely cold and disagree-
able travelling. On the 18th, we were in the
heart of those mountains ; and we had to encoun-
ter such a strong hea^ wind, that my upper lip
became very much frozen, without my having
perceived it at the time. It is now much swolen,
and very painful. We all caught severe colds, in
consequence of a fall of snow upon us, to the depth
of eight inches, after we had encamped and re-
signed ourselves to sleep, the second night after
leaving Stuart's Lake ; and I have become unable
to speak, excepting in a whisper. It requires in-
deed, a strong constitution, to conflict with the
hardships, incident to our mode of life.

We here find no person, excepting two Cana-
dians. Mr. A. R. M^Leod, who has charge of
this place, is no'.y absent on a visit to his hunter's
tent, which is five days' march from this. From

Harmon's journal.

227

such a distance, provisions are obtained for this
post, as there are very few large animals at this
season, in this vicinity, in consequence, I presume,
of the great depth of snow, which always falls in
places, so near the mountain, as this. The peo-
ple who are here say,, that the hunters had such
difficulty in finding animals of any kind, the last

fall, that they all passed five days, without any
kind of food. .. ^.m* hj^^;:*. .-. m .,

Monday, March 1. Dunvegan, I have, at
length, reached this place, where I passed the
years 1809 and 1810, and revisiting it, many a
pleasing scene is recalled by memory, and many
hours of agreeable conversation, which I passed,
with the gentlemen who were then here, rise
fresh to my recollection. — Mr^ M*=Gillivray is now
absent, on a visit to the Lesser Slave Lake ; and
Mr. Collin Campbell has charge of the fort.

Sunday, 14. Mr. M<^Gillivray returned, on the
lOth inst. He is an amiable and excellent man ;
and I have enjoyed his society, during my short
stay here, very highly. Having completed my
business here, I shall set out tomorrow, on my re-
turn to Stuart's Lake. I here received the intel-
ligence, that Niagara and Makana had su' render-
ed to the British forces ; but not before many val-
uable lives were lost, on both sides.
'^ Sanday, April 4. Stuart'' s Lake. Wo left

ft i'<l'

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228

Harmon's journal.

Dunvegan on the 16th ult. and arrived here this
evening, without having experienced any disaster
by the way.

Saturday^ May 1. Present appearances justi-
fy the expectation, that the ice in the river wil^
soon break up, so that our people will be able to
commence their journey to the Rainy Lake with
our returns, all of which we have sent to M^Leod's
Lake, together with letters to people in this coun-
try, and to our friends in the civilized part of the
world. ' ' ■"

Thursday, 13. The weather is fine. In the
early part of the day, Mr. J. Stuart, accompanied
by six Canadians and two of the Natives, embark-
ed on board of two canoes, taking with him a
small assortment of goods, as a kind of pocket
money, and provisions sufficient for a month and
an half They are going to join Mr. J. G. M^Ta-
vish and his company, at some place on the Co-
lumbia River ; and to proceed with them to the
ocean. Should Mr. Stuart be so successful as to
discover a water communication, between thiS and
the Columbia, we shall, for the future, obtain our
yearly supply of goods by that route, and send our
returns out that way, to be shipped directly for
China, in vessels which the company, in that case,
design to build on the North West coast. While
the execution of this comprehensive plan is com-

■vi-

Harmon's journal.

229

mitted to others, mj more humble employment,
in which, however, 1 am quite ' as sure of being
successful, is to be, the superintendence of the af-

fairs of New Caledonia. «•» ^•'^ iiimm-^ui ^t-.-^ iw.'-.

No other people, perhaps, who pursue busi-
ness to obtain a livelihood, have so much leisure, as
we do. Few of us are employed more, and aiany
of us much less, than one hfth of our time, in trans-
acting the business of the Company. The re-
maining four fifths are at our own disposal. If we
do not, with such an opportunity, improve our un-
derstandings, the fault must be our own ; for there
are few posts, which are not tolerably well suppli-
ed with books. These books are not, indeed, all
of the best kind ; but among them are many which
are valuable. If I were deprived of these silent
companions, many a gloomy hour would pass over
me. Even with them, my spirit at times sinks,
when I reflect on the great length of time which
has elapsed, since I left the land of my nativity,
and my relatives and friends, to dwell in this sav-
age country. These gloomy moments, thank God,
occur but seldom, and soon glide away. A little
reflection reconciles toe to the lot, which Provi-
dence has assigned me, in the world.

Saturday, June 12. A Sicauny has just arrived,
who states, that a little this side of M^^Leod's
Lake, where ho was encamped with his family, an

* 4

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230

Harmon's journal.

Indian of the sairie tribe, rushed out of the wood,
and fired upon them, and killed his wife. Her
corpse he immediately burned upon the spot ; and
then, with his son and two daughters, he proceed-
ed directly to this [ ' ice. — All the savages, who
have had a near relation killed, are never quiet
until they have revenged the death, either by kill-
ing the murderer, or some person nearly related
to him. This spirit of revenge has occasioned the
death of the old woman, above mentioiied, and she
undoubtedly, deserved to die ; for, the last sum-
mer, she persuaded her husband to go and kill
the cousin of her murderer, and that, merely be-
cause her own son had been drowned. — The cus-
tom, which extensively prevails among the Indians,
of revenging the natural death of a relative, by
the commission of murder, seems to arise from a
superstitious notion entertained by them, that
death, even when it takes place in this manner,
has, in some mysterious way, been occasioned by
a fellow creature. * n-^niM* - *?ts« ^^Jt? w-n *.-!

,\-< Sunday, 20. Yesterday, an Indian of this vil-
lage killed another, who was on a visit from the
other end of this lake, just as he was entering his
canoe to return. The former approached the
latter, and gave him five stabs with a lance, and
ripped open his bowels, in such a shocking man-
ner, that his entrails immediately fell upon

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HARMON S JOURNAL.

231

•^1

the ground ; and he, of course, instantly ex- "
pired. The murderer made his escape ; and the
chief of the village, wrapped the corpse in a
moose skin, and sent it to his relations. Notwith-
standing this conciliatory act, the people of this
place are apprehensive, that the relations of the
person murdered, will make war upon them ; and
they will, therefore, set out tomorrow, to go a
considerable distance down this river, where they
will pass a greater part of the summer, until har- ,
mony is restored between the two villages. — This
murderer has a wife, who is known to be a worth-
less woman, with whom he supposed that the per-
son murdered had had imp jper intercourse ; and
it was to revenge this, that the act was committed.
— All the Carriers are extremely jealous of their
wives ; while, to their unmarried daughters, they
cheerfully allow every liberty !

Thursday, August 12. Salmon begin to make
their appearance in this river, which is a joyful
event to us ; for the stock-of provisions which we
have in the fort, is sufficient, but for a (ew days,
and the Natives, for some time past, have suffered
greatly for the want of food. We ought to be
thankful to our merciful Preserver and Benefac-
tor, who continually watches over us, and supplies
our wants. Often has he appeared for our relief.

",5. ♦* '

^ ",'' 4 1*1

*'''1

. >>

,:.-*) r Vi'^l'^l^'r^.:'

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232

^ Harmon's journal.

.^;

when we were in urgent need, and taught us, that
he is the proper object of our confidence.

Wednesday, September 1. A few days since,
Mr. M'^Dougall arrived here frjm M^Leod's Lake,
and took all he people, belonging to this fort,
with him to Pinchy, to gather berries. Having
been left entirely alone, I have had a favoura-
ble opportunity for serious reflection, and for
self examination; and I have been disposed to em-

' ploy it fo this purpose. On reviewing the exercises
of my heart, and the course of my conduct, during
my past life, I hp've been filled with astonishment
and with grief, in view of my wide departures
from the path of duty. My sins have risen in
gloomy array before me, and I have been led
to feel, that I am, indeed, the chief of sinners ;
and that, on account of mj /ansgressions, I de-
serve to be banished forever from the gracious
presence of God, and to bo consigned to the

' world of future misery. This view of my guilt
would have been overwhelming, had not God
been graciously pleased, as I trust, to reveal
the Saviour to me, in his glorious fullness, as
an all sufficient and an accepted Mediator be-
tween sinful men and the offended majesty ol
heaven. He has appeared to me amiable in
himself, and entirely suited to my necessities:

'vs

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

23a

ai^ I humbly hope that I have committed my
soul to him, to be washed from the defilement of
sin in his blood, to be accepted of God through his
intercession, and to be sanctified by his Spirit.
The change in my views and feelings, is certainly
great ; and it is surprising to myself. What I
once considered as the foibles and follies of my
youth, now appear to be grievous sins, against a
righteous and a long suffering God ; and a religious
course of life, I regard as the path, not only of
wisdom, but of happiness ; and by the aid of Di-
vine grace, it is my resolution, for the time to
come, to labour after a compliance with every Di-
vme requirement. ^m^ wia^rmia ^f'S4l?irii^^^^ tii^jti,

Until this day, I have always doubted whether
such a Saviour as the scriptures describe, ever re-
ally existed, and appeared on earth ! So blind wad
I, that I could see no necessity for an atoning Me-
diator between God and men. Before I left the
civilized part of the world, I had frequently heard
the cavils of infidelity urged; and these cavils fol-
lowed me into the wilderness, frequently came
fresh to my recollection, and contributed to over-
shadow my mind with the gloomy doubts of infi-
delity. My intention, however, was, by no means
to cast oflf all religion ; but, I attempted to frame
to myself a religion, which would comport with
my teelings, and with my manner of life. — For

30 jt

'%;.
i^'

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234

Harmon's journal.

several years past, however, my mind has not been
at rest. I was taught in early life, by parents
whom I respected and loved, the truths and du-
ties of Christianity ; and I had a wish to believe
in the same religion which they possessed, and
from which, I have frequently heard them say,
they derived the most substantial consolation. I,
therefore, some time since, commenced reading the
Bible, with more attention than 1 had before done ;
for, from my youtii up, I had been accustomed to
read it. I also read all other books that I could
find, which treated of the christian religion. Some
excellent notes, respecting the Saviour, in the Uni-
versal History, alfected my mind much ; as did,
also, the serious letters which I received, every
year, from my brother Stephen. I also prayed a
gracious God to enable me to believe on his Son,
the Lord Jesus Christ. As I was praying to-day,
on a sudden, the faith, respecting which I was so
solicitous, was, I trust, graciously granted to m?.
My views of the Saviour, underwent a total
change. I was enabled, not only to believe in his
existence, but to apprehend his superlative excel-
lency ; and now he appears to be, in truth, what
the scriptures describe him to be, the chiefest
among ten thousand, and one altogether lovely.
May the grace of God enable me to follow hi?

"IP *-—.,^l': 111 'i^lHiviJI \Fca £J,^«W ■iiilii ^ft*:^:•;!^•^

vir

•f-

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HARMON'S JOURNAL,

235

heavenly exampke through life, that I may dwell
with him in glory, forever ! -iiJ^i',

'B As I seem to myself to hare hitherto led a
more wicked life than the rest of my fellow crea-
tures, I deem it proper, for th« time to come, to
devote the first 'day of ever/ month to religious
fasting, employing it in reading the scriptures, in
devout meditation, and in piayer, that I may keep
in mind the great busings of life, which I now
consider to be, a preparation for eternity. My
prayer shall ever be, that a gracious God would
be pleased to blot out itj numberless and aggra-
vated transgressions, ^r the sake of the atone-
ment which Jesus hfx made ; and that he would
keep me, by his gr^ce, without which, I am con-
vinced I can do nothing acceptable to him, in the
pat'.i of !:'^lines«, until it shall terminate in heaven-
ly glory, ■■'■■ -;f—:"--^ -^"- --^ .-— '-"-' --i-t^-r

Tuesday^ 7. I have this day composed two
prayers, which I design lo use regularly and de-
voutly, morning and cveaing. It is not only a du-
ty, but a privilege, ;iius to approach the mercy
seat of the great Sovereign of the Universe, in
the natiij of a prevalent Intercessor, and to sup-
plicate the numerous blessings which we need, as
well as to give thanks for those which we are
continually receiving, »Vi ^v^ .iwi i»

•i1'l
1;^]

tw.

j. ^

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236

UARMON's ^OURNAIj.

>ii>.«

ih, Saiurdayy25. An Indian has ar/ived, from «
considerable distance down this river, who has de-
livered to m^,, three letters from Mr. J. Stuart.
The last of thftm is dated at 0-ke-na-gun Lake,
which is situated at a short distance from the Co-
lumbia River. Mv. Stuart writes, tb^t he met
with every kindness ^nd assistance fro^^ the Na-
tives, on his way to that place ; that, after de-
scending this river, during eight days, he was un-
der the necessity of leaving his canoes, and of tak-
ing his property on hones, more than one hun-
dred and fifty miles, te the above mentioned
Lake. From that place, he states, that they
can go all the way by wattr, to the Ocean, by
making a few portages ; ana he hopes to reach
the Pacific Ocean, in twelve oi fifteen davs, at
farthest. They will be delayed, k for a time,
where they are, by the necessary construction

Friday, Qctoher 1. The fifst of my appoint-
ed days of religious fasting, has arrived; and I
have endeavoured to observe it, agreeably to
■ay resolution. . ;• -"'.♦r-^?'^'^ tr^'-^^-'^ff^*'!" *'^^^
|r, Sunday, November 7. This afternoon, Mr. Jo-
«eph La Roque and company arrived from the
Columbia River. This gentleman went, the last
summer, ./ith Mr. J. G. M^Taviah and his par*
ty, to the Pacific Ocean. On their return, they

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HARMOTTs JOURNALf

237

met Mr. Stuart and his company. Mr. La
Roque, accompanied bj two of Mr. Stuart's
men, set off thence, to come to this place, by
the circuitous way of Red Deer River, Lesser
Slave Lake, and Dunvegan, from which last
place, they were accompanied by my people,
who have been, this su$»mer, to the Rainy
Lake. By them I have received a number of
letters from people in this country, and from my
friends in the United States.
..y.Tuesdayj December 14. On the 1st inst. I set
out for M»=Leod's Lake ; and I there received
several letters from my brothers below, which
announce the truly afflicting intelligence, that
my beloved son George is no longer to be num-
bered among the living ! He was in good health
on the second of March las^ and a corpse on
the eighteenth of the same month. — For some
time, I could scarcely credit this intelligence ;
though I had no reason to doubt its trMth.
This dispensation of divine providence is so un-
expected, and so afflictive, that at first, I could
scarcely bear up under it, with a becoming chris-
tian resignation. My tenderest affection was
placed upon this darling boy ^ and I fondly hop-
ed, that he would bo the solace of my declining
years. But how delusive was this expectation (
How frail i^nd perishing are all o^arthly objects

|r ."

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238

Harmon's journal.

and enjoyments. A few days since, in my imag-
ination, I was often wandering with delight, to the
remote land of my kindred, and parental love cen-
tered in this promising son, for whom, principally,
I wished to live, and for whom I would have been
willing to die. Perhaps this child occupied a
place in ray heart, which my God and Saviour on-
ly may of right occupy. I hope that this afflic-
tion may be the means of disengaging my affec-
tions from an inordinate attachment to earthly ob-
jects ; and that it may induce me to fix my confi-
dence and hope on things, which will never disap-
point my expe station. The Judge of all the
earth has done right ; and it becomes me to be
still and know, that he is God. I, too, must soon
die ; and this dispensation is, perhaps, a seasona-
ble warning to mc, to be prepared to meet my
own dissolution. I desire that the Holy Spirit
may sanctify this affliction to me, and make it sub-
servient to this important end. 't»/

On my return from M<=Leod's Lake, I was ac-
companied by Mr. M<=Dougall and family, who
came to mourn with me, and the mother of my
departed son, the loss of this dear object of our
mutual affection. — Her distress, on receiving this
intelligence, was greater, if possible, than my own.
I endeavoured, by some introductory remarks, on
the uncertainty of earthly things, to prepare her

Harmon's journal.

239

mind for the disclosure, which I was about to
make. Her fears were alarmed, by these re-
marks ; and, probably, she discovered in my coun-
tenance, something to confirm them. When I in-
formed her that our beloved son Gcorffe was
dead, she looked at me, with a wild stare of ago-
ny, and immediately threw herself upon the bed,
where she continued, in a state of delirium, during
the succeeding night.

Saturday, January 22, 1814. On the 4th inst.
Mr. M<=Dougall and family, left this place, to re-
turn home. They were accompanied by two
men, who have gone to Peace River, with letters.
— The same day, Mr. La, Roque and myself, ac-
companied by fourteen of my people, went to
Frazer's Lake. On the 9th I sent him, accom-
panies^ with two Canadians and two Indians, with
letters to the people, who are on the Columbia
River. After having purchased what fui-s I could,
and a sufficient quantity of salmon, I set out on my
return home, where I arrived this evening.

Friday, February 4. This evening, Mr. Don-
ald M^^Leunen and company, arrived here from
the Columbia Department, with a packet of let-
ters. One of these is from Mr. John Stuart, in-
forming me that the last autumn, the North West
Company purchased of the Pacific Fur Company,
all the furs which they had bought of the Natives,

■v

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240

Harmon's journal.

and all the goods which they had on hand. The
people who were engaged in the service of that
company, are to have a passage, the next summer,
to Montreal, in the canoes of the North West
Company, unless they choose to enter into our
service. - »*

Sunday, j^pril 17. As the ice appears to be
out of this river, I have sent Mr. Leunen, accom-
panied by two Canadians, in a small canoe, with
letters to the gentlemen on Columbia River. I
am, therefore, deprived of an agreeable compan-
ion, who, I expected until lately, would pass the
summer with me. — Happy are those, who have
an amiable and intelligent friend, with whom they
can, at pleasure, converse.

Friday, 22. Sent off my people to M^Leod's
Lake, in order that they may be in readiness
to embark for the Rainy Lake, as soon as the
navigation opens. By them I have, as usual, for-
warded my letters, and accounts of the place. If
God permit, I shall pass another summer at this
place, having with me ten persons.

As this is the only season of the year when
we can leave this country, now it is, that we have
the most ardent desire of visiting the land of our
nativity. At other seasons, t\\e impossibility of a
departure, suppresses the risiiig wish to go, stern
necessity binds us to our situation, and we rest m

Harmon's journal.^

241

quietude until the return of another spring. Then
all the finer feelings of affection take possession of
our souls ; and their strength seems to be increas-
ed, by the previous restraint, which had been laid
dpon them* •

Saturday, May 7. The weather is fine, and
vegetation is far advanced, for the season. This
lake is clear of ice ; and the frost is chiefly out of
the ground. Swans, bustards, and ducks, are nu-
merous in the rivers and lakes ; and, during the
last ten days, an incredible number of cranes have
passed this, on their way to the north ; but none
of them stopped here.

Three Indians have come to this place from
Frazer's Lake, to obtain the piece of a garment,
belonging to an Indian of that place, which they
say, was cut off by an Indian of this village. They
are so superstitious as firmly to believe, that, by
virtue of this piece of garment, the Indian, who
has it in his possession, is able to destroy the life
of its owner, at pleasure.

Friday, jiugust 5. Salmon begin to come up
this river. They are generally to be taken, in
considerable numbers, until the latter part of Sep^
tember. During about a month, they come up in
multitudes ; and we can take any number of them
that we please. ^,.

31 ,Ai,.

<*,

-.w.aw--

4,,A=

242

HARMON S JOURNAL.

^- Tuesday f September 20. Wo have had but fevr
salmon here, this year. It is omy in every second
season, that they are very numerous ; the reason
of which, I am unable to assign.

I have sent an Ihdian, with letters, to . Dunve-
gan, on Peace River, which is distant from this
place, at least, five hundred miles. *

Friday, 30. We have had but a few salmon
in this river, during the past season. We hope,
however, that a kind Providence has sent them to
some of our neighbouring villages, where we shall
be able to purchase what will be necessary, in ad-
dition to the white fish, which we expect to take,
for our consumption, during the ensuing; winter.
But let my condition be ever so deplorable, I am
resolved to place all my dependence on that Be-
ing, who depends on no one. •»*/...!

Thesday, October 18. This afternoon, I was
agreeably surprised by the arrival of Mr. J. La
Roque and company, in two canoes, laden with
goods, from Fort George, at the mouth of the Co-
lumbia River, which place they left, the latter
part of last August. Our vessels arrived there, in
the months of March and April ; and, soon after,
one of them set sail again, loaded with furs, for
Canton in China. — Mr. La Roque brings the mel-
ancholy intelligence, that Messrs. D. M<^Ta ^h,
Alexander Henry, and five sailors were drown^^d^

HARMON S JOURNAL.

243

on the 22(1 oi' Maj last, in going out in a boat,
from fort George, to the vessel called the Isaac
Tod, which lay at anchor without the bar, in go-
ing over which, this disaster befei them. With
the former gentleman, I passed two winters at
Dunvegan, on Peace River. He stood high in my
esteem, and I considered him as one of my best
friends ; and I shall ever lament the sad catas-
trophe, which has thus suddenly removed him from
my society, and from all earthly scenes. I hope
that I may not be regardless of the admonition,
addressed to me by this providence, to be also
ready for my departure, to the world of spirits.

Monday, 24. Sent Mr. La Roque, and the
people who came up with him, to reestablish the
post at Frazer's Lake.

Saturday, 29. My people have returned from
the Rainy Lake, and delivered me lettere froip
my relatives below. They afford me renewed
proof of the uncertainty of earthly objects and en-
joyments, in the intelligence, that a brother's wife
has been cut down by death, in the midst of her
days, leaving a disconsolate husband, and two
young children, to mourn over her early depar-
ture. I ought, however, to be thankful, that the
rest of my numerous relatives, are blessed with
health, and a reasonable portion of earthly com-
forts. I have also received a letter from Mr.

■s

244

Harmon's journal.

John Stuart, who hag arrived at M^^Leod's Lake,
desiring me to go and superintend the affairs at
Frazer's Lake, and to send Mr. La Roque, with
several of the people who are there, ta this place,
that they may return to the Columbia department,
where it is presumed they will be more wanted,
than in this quarter. Tomorrow, therefore, I
shall depart for Frazer's Lake. ^

" Thursday, JVovember 3. Frazer's Lake. Here
we arrived this afternoon, and found Mr. La
Roque and his people, busily employed, in barter-
ing with the Natives, for furs and salmon, and in
constructing houses. With this gentleman, I have
spent a pleasant evening ; and I am happy to find
that, from having been thoughtless and dissolute,
he now appears to be the reverse of this. It is
manifest, that he has recently reflected much, on
the vanity of this world, and dh the importance of
the concerns of eternity; and he now appears deter-
mined, by the aids of God's Holy Spirit, on a tho-
jrough reformation. May he be enabled to perse-
vere in this important undertaking.

Tuesday, December 20. Messrs. Stuart and
M*^Dougall, with a number of men, have arrived
from Stuart's Lake, for the purpose of proceeding
with me to Stilla, in order to purchase salmon.
The Indians of this village have not a sufficiency
for themselves and for us, owing to the scarcity of

•\ 4

Harmon's journal^

245

salmon at several neighbouring viljages, whose in-
habitants flock to this place, in hopes of obtaining
a subsistence, during the winter.

Saturday, January 7, 1815. On the 29th ult.
I accompanied my two friends to Stuart's Lake,
where we passed the holidays together, in the in-
tercourse of an intimate and endearing friendship.
Each related how he had passed his youthful days,
and even in what manner he had lived to the pre-
sent hour ; and we all readily acknowledged, that
our lives had been very different from what we
then wished they had been. I hope and believe,
that we all parted, fully determined on a thorough
reformation of conduct. May none of us fail to
carry this resolution into effect.

Friday, February 3. During the whole of the
last month, it has been the coldest weather, by
far, that I have ever experienced, in New Cale-
donia. ' ?r

On the 11th ult. accompanied by six of my
people and two of the Natives, I set out to visit
the lands of the Nas-koo-tains, which lie along
Frazer's River. This river Mr. Stuart followed
some distance, when he left this place to pro-
ceed to the Columbia River. The above men-
tioned Indians never had any intercourse with the
white people, until I went among them. We
reached their first village, on the 19th ; but as

/ill ,

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246

HARMON S JOURNAL.

they were nearjy destitute of provisions, and we
had expended those which we took with us from
this place, we passed only one night with them.
The next morning, we continued our route down
the river, every day passing one or two small vil-
lages, until the 22d, when we met people from the
Columbia River, with letters, &c.

Frazcr's River is about fiftv rods wide, and
has a pretty strong current. On the north side,
the bank is generally high ; but, on the other, it
is low, and the country is level. In going from
this, to the place where we fell upon the river,
we occupied nine days ; and the country which
we passed over, is very uneven. We, however,
crossed several ponds and small lakes, which were
from one to fifteen miles in length. At these wa-
ters, the Natives pass the greater part of the
summer, and subsist on excellent white fish, trout
and carp ; but, towards the latter part of' August,
they return to the banks of the river, in order to
take and dry salmon, for their subsistence during
the succeeding winter.

Sunday, 12. As sjilmon are becoming rather
scarce among the Indians of this village, they are
preparing to visit the neighbouring lakes, in order
to obtain a subsistence, from the fish that they
hope to be able to take out of them.

-i.iftjfiK ■

!# '**'

Harmon's journal.

247

Monday, 27. The weather is serene and cold ;
and thus far, this h"as been much the coldest win-
ter that I have experienced in this part of the
country. — The winters are, generally milder here,
than in most parts of the North West. Mr. Stu-
art has just left me, on his return home. The
few days which he has spent here, were passed
much to our mutual satisfaction ; and I hope that
we shall reap some benefit from this visit. Re-
ligion was the principal topic, on which we con-
versed, because, to both of us, it was more inter-
esting than any other. Indeed, what ought to in-
terest us so much, as that which concerns our
eternal welfare ? I, at times, almost envy the sat-
isfaction of those, who live among christian peo-
ple, with whom they can converse, at pleasure,
on the great things of religion, as it must by a
source of much satisfaction, and of great advan-
tage, to a pious mind.

Thursday, April 6. About ten days since, an
Indian of this place lost bis wife, after a lingering
illness of several months ; and, shortly after, the
disconsolate husband hung himself from the limb
of a tree. For several days previous to the fatal
act, he appeared to be much cast down, which
being observed by his companions, they cndoav-
ourcjd to cheer his spirit, by the consideration,
that what had befallen him, had been snilcred by

fe.1

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248

Harmon's journaL.

multitudes of others, and was the common lot.
He replied that he should cdnduct as his own
feelings dictated ; and that he had not fo»'gotten
the request of his dying companion, which was,
that he would accompany her. Not long after,
he was missing ; and, search being madje for him,
he was found in the situation above mentioned.
The strength of conjugal attachment is not an un-
frequent cause of suicide, in every part of the In-
dian country.

Monday^ 24. The snow is fast leaving us, and
fowls begin to come from the south.

Wednesday^ 26. I have sent letters to my
friends below, to Stuart's Lake, which place they
will leave, on their way, the first of next month.
I expect to pass the ensuing summer here, having
but a few people with me. But, by dividing my
time between reading, meditation and exercise, I
hope liat it will pass not unpleasantly, away.

Wednesday, May 10. We have surrounded a
piece of ground with palisades, for a garden, in
which we have planted a few potatoes, and sow-
ed onion, carrot, beet and parsnip seeds, nd a
little barley. I have, also, planted a very little
Inuian corn, without the expectation that it will
come to maturity. The nights in this region
are too cool, and the summers are too short, to
admit of its ripening. There is not a month in

4i Harmon's joornal.

249

the whole year, in which water does not con-
geal ; though the air in the day time, in the
summer, is warm, and we even have a few days
of sultry weather. — ^The soil, in many places in
New Caledonia, is tolerably good.

Tuesday, May 30. I have just returned from
a visit to Mr. Stuart, who passes the summer
at Stuart's Lake. On the mountain, which I
crossed in going there, I found snow, two feet,
at least, in depth.

Friday, June 16. Soon after the Natives left
their village, last February, to go to the small
lakes, for the purpose of taking fish, four of
their number deceased. Their corpses were
kept, by their relations, to the present time,
when they are bringing them to the village in
order to burn them. Little else but the skele-
tons, now remain. — In the winter season, the Car-
riers often keep their dead in their huts during
five or six months, before they will allow them
to be burned. At this season, the coldness of
the weather enables them to keep the bodies,
without their becoming offensive; and they are
unwilling that the lifeless remains of the objects
of their affection, should be removed forever
from their sight, until it becomes a matter of
necessity. ^ ^ • *"-^-'^'"'

Sunday, 18. This afternoon eight of the j!^ite^
32 ,

250

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

ote-tains came to pay a visit to the Indians of
this village, by whom they were, at first, treated
in a friendly manner. Soon after their arrival,
they began to play, as is the custom of the Indians,
whenever the people of dilFerent villages meet.
Things proceeded smoothly, until the strangers be-
gan to be winners, when disputes arose. An
open contest was prevented, by the restoration of
the property won ; but a coolness between the
parties, was visible. The strangers sron set out,
to return home ; but as they were embarking in
their canoes, a worthless fellow fired upon them,
and killed one of them. This disaster caused them
to hasten their departure, uttering at the same
tikHe the threat, that they would soon return, with
a large band of their relations, to revenge the
death of their companion. — Human life is often
sacrificed for a trifle, among the savages ; and he
only may feel secure, who is prepared to oppose
strength to aggression.

Mouday, July 24. Fruits, of various kind?,
now begin to ripen. Of this delicious food, the
present prospect is, that we shall soon have an
abundance ; and for this favour, it becomes us to
be grateful to the Bestower. The person who is
surrounded with the comforts of civilized life,
knows not how we prize these delicacies of the
wilderness. Our circumstancGs, also, teach us to

me, ren(

HARMON^S JOURNAL.

251

enjoy and to value the intercourse of friendship.
To be connected, and to have intercourse, with a
warm and disinterested friend, who is able, and
will be faithful, to point out our faults, and to di-
rect us by his good counsel, is surely a great bles-
sing. Such a friend, I have, in my nearest neigh-
bour, Mr. Stuart. For some time past, he has
frequently written to me long, entertaining and in-
structive letters, which are a cordial to my spir-
its, too often dejected, by the loneliness of my
situation, and more frequently, by reflections on
my past life of folly and of sin. Mr. James M*^
Dougall, also, another gentleman in this depart-
ment, is equally dear to me. His distance from
me, renders intercourse less practicable ; but
when we meet, we endeavour to make up in
conversation, for our long separation.
^. Friday, August 4. The holy scriptures con-
tain the most abundant instruction, in regard to
the duties which we owe to God, and to our
fellow creatures. To aid me in keeping these
instructions, habitually and distinctly in view, that
my life may thereby be more exemplary, I think
proper to form the following resolutions, which
I hope, by the aid of the Holy Spirit, to be
enabled to observe, during my life. , ^

Resolved, that the scofls of the wicked, di-
rected against serious religion, shall never have

f'?r|

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252

Harmon's journal.

any other effect uporv me, than to make me
strive, the more earnestly, to lead the life of a
sincere christian.

Resolved, to be in the company of the wick-
ed, as little as possible ; and when among such
people, to endeavour to persuade them in such
a way as may be consistent with propriety, to
forsake their evil courses.^"

Resolved, to assist the poor and needy, so
far as may be consistent with my means ; hop-
ing that avarice may never prevent me from
judging correctly, in regard to this subject.

Resolved, never to let a day pass, when at
home, or when convenient, abroad, without read-
ing a portion of the holy scriptures, and spending
half an hour or more, in meditating on what I
have read ; and that the whole of the sabbath,
when it is not in my power to attend publick
worship, shall be spent in prayer, reading the bi-
ble, or sermons, or some other religious book, in
self examination, and in meditating on the eternal
world.

Resolved, to offer up daily prayers to the
throne of grace, for a right temper of mind, that
I may be constant and diligent, in strictly observ-
ing the above resolutions. And I pray that ray
humble endeavours may, by the blessing of God,
keep me in the path of holiness, so that I may,

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HARMON'S JOURNAL.

253

frpoi day fo day, become better prepared to en-
ter the world of bliss, whenever my Maker and
Redeemer shall see fit to terminate my mortal
course. Amen.

Monday, 7. At half past seven, A. M. we
had an earthquake, which lasted about twenty
seconds. At that time I was sitting in a chair, in
the house ; and the agitation put me, and the
whole house, in a motion like that of a canoe when
rolled about by con ?iderable swells. The Natives
say, that a similar shaking of the earth occur^, al-,
most yearly, at this place. «-ii,-rx^ ; r.

Sunday, 13. Salmon begin to come up this
river, which lights up joy in the countenances,
both of ourselves and of the Natives ; for we had
all become nearly destitute of provisions, of any
kind. A kind Providence will not allow us to suf-
fer want, though we so little deserve favours. ■•

Monday, October 2. Within a few days past,"'
we have caught, in nets made for the purpose, of
strong twine, three sturgeon, one of which meas-
ured ten feet and three inches in length, and four
feet and one inch round his middle, which might
weigh about four hundred pounds. All that we
have taken, were uncommonly fat, and of the best
flavour of any that 1 have ever eaten.

Friday, 13. This afternoon, the Natives sent
for me to come and see one of their young wo-

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254

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

men, who lay at the point of death, at their vil-
lage ; and, merely to please them, I went, without
expecting to render her any service, especially
with the medicines which we have here. I found
her so far gone that I thought it would not be
proper to give her any thing. I told the Indians,
moreovr- thai if she should die, shortly - ftcr
taking ot ne in 'ines, they would say, as they ever
do in such cases, i t I was the cause of her death.
They assured me however, to the contrary ; and
I gave her a simple medicine, which I supposed
could do her neither good nor harm, with which
they were satisfied. rs

I understood that her relations had said, that
a certain Indian, by his magic, had caused her ill-
ness, and that he would finally take her life. I,
therefore, took this opportunity of repeating again,
what I had often told them before, that God, the
infinitely powerful being, who made every thing,
had alone the power of causing their dissolution,
whenever he thought proper. Upon this, one of
the chiefs, who thought himself more knowing
than the others, observed, that it was the God of
the salmon, who remained at the sea, who was
taking the girl's life. I replied, that God is in
heaven above ; but that, so searching are his eyes,
he can easily see what takes place on the face of
the \7hcle earth. They said, it might be so ; but

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

255

they could not conceive, by what means I came
to have a knowledge of these things. This, I en-
deavom'ed to explain to them.f-.ru t .

Wednesday, JYovember 1. This afternoon,
three of our men arrived from the Rainy Lake,
who say that they left the remainder of their com-
pany at M<=Leod's and Stuart's Lakes. They de-
livered me letters from people in this country ;
but none from home. By the men in the other
canoes, I hope to receive letters from my friends
below. We are happy to be informed, that peace
has taken place between Great Britain and the
United States. My earnest desire is, that they
may long continue to enjoy this blessing. — v

Thursday y 16. We have now about three
inches of snow on the ground. ^^.

Sunday, March 17, 1816. In consequence of
the late arrival, at fort Chippewyan, of the men
who went to the Rainy Lake, two canoes, which
were expected last fall, could not then proceed here,
which is the reason why I have but just received
the letters that I then expected, from my friends
below. They bring me the distressing intelli-
gence, that two of my brothers are brought, by a
consumption, to the borders of the grave. Happy
should I consider myself, could I once more see
them in this world. But, if this may not be, the
will of the Lord be doqe. By this affliction I

i'.

Vi.

FT ■"•*!& i

256

HARMON S JOURNAL.

have renewed proof, that this world cannot be my
rest ; and I pray God to prepare me, and my dy-
ing brothers, for that happy abode, where a sepa-
ration of friends never causes the heart to bleed.

Monday, April 15. My desire to, return
to my native country has never been so intense,
since I took up my abode in the wilderness, as it
is now, in consequence of the peculiar situation of
my friends ; yet, I cannot think of doing it this
season, as it is absolutely necessary that I should
pass the ensuing summer at this place.

I shall write to my friends below, a few days
hence ; and as we live in a world of disappoint-
ment and death, I am resolved to forward to them
by Mr. John Stuart, a copy of my Journal, in or-
der that they may know something of the manner
in which I have been employed, both as it res-
pects my temporal and spiritual concerns, while in
the wilderness, if I should never enjoy the inex-
pressible pleasure of a personal intercourse with
them.

r- Wednesday, 24. I have just returned from
Stuart's Lake. While there, I agreed with Mr.
George M<^Dougall to remain in this country two
years or more, as clerk to the North West com-
pany. He came out the last summer from Cana-
da, with Lord Selkirk's party, without having ob-
ligated himself to continue with them, for an^

> '

HARMON S JOURNAL.

257

definite time. After they arrived at Fort Ver-
milion on Peace River, he was treated by his su-
periour, Mr. John CJarke, in so unbecoming a
manner, that he left them, and had come into this
quarter to visit his brother, Mr. James McDougall,
before he should return to Canada, which he de-
signed to do the ensuing summer.

Saturday^ July 20. Strawberries begin to rip-
en, and we have the prospect of an abundance of*
them, as well as of other kinds of fruit.

1 now pp.ss a short time every day, very pleas-
antly, in teaching my little daughter Polly to read
and spell words in the English language, in which
she makes good progress, though she knows not
the meaning of one of them. In conversing with .
my children, I use entirely the Cree, Indian lan-
guage ; with their mother I more frequently em-
ploy the French. Her native tongue, however, is
more familiar to her, which is the reason why our
children have been taught to speak that, in pref-
erence to the French language.

Tuesday, September 9. Salmon begin to come
up this river. ^*

Thursday, October 3. We have taken our
vegetables out of the ground. We have forty-
one bushels of potatoes, the produce of one bushel
planted the last spring. Our turnips, barley, &c.
have produced well.

!':i

pal

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*>r»

Harmon's journal.

Saturday, JYovember 23. By our people who
returned this afternoon from the Rainy Lake, I
have received letters, which announce the afflic-
tive intelligence, that two of my brothers, of
whose decline I had before been informed, are
gone into eternity. The happy days that I had
fondly hoped that I should pass in their society on
earth, I shall never enjoy. Such is the uncertain-
ty of all earthly expectations. But the Judge of
all the earth has done right. — My departed bro-
thers gave evidence, to those around them, that
they died in the faith and hope and peace of the
gospel. They are gone, I trust, to a world where
ain and suffering cannot follow them. -h**-

When the cold hand of death shall have been
laid upon a few more of my relatives, there will be
nothing remaining on the earth to console me for
their loss. Nothing revives my drooping spirits in
view of the departure of my friends, one after anoth-
er, from year to year, into eternity, like the hope
that, through rich grace, I may be at length per-
mitted to join their society, in a world of perfect
purity and of uninterrupted and everlasting joy.

We rarely prize our blessings in a suitable
manner, until we learn their value by being de-
prived of them. 1 feel the force of this truth, in
regard to my deceased brothers. To one of them
in a particular jnanner, I am deeply indebted ; and

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

259

1 have never been fully sensible of his worth, un-
til now. During the whole period jf my resi-
dence in this country, ! e has written to me annu-
ally, long, affectionate, and instructive letters.
For a number of years past, religion was the great
subject of them. He was tenderly concerned for
my spiritual welfare ; and doubtless learned from
my letters, that I was lingering on the gloomy
confineri of infidelity, and little disposed to heed,
as I ought to have done, his friendly admonition.
So far from being discouraged by this circum-
stance, it only rendered him more vigorous and
persevering in his efforts ; and his letters stand
chief among the means, iwhich have been blessed,
as I would hope, to my conversion from the love
and practice of sin, to the fear and service of God.
These letters have also been of use to the few
friends, to whom I have shown them. It would
have given me great pleasure to have acknowledg-
ed, in person, the obligation which I am under, to
him ; but it becomes not me to dictate to infinite
wisdom. * *

I have, also, received letters from gentlemen
in different parts of this country, which inform mc
of the many * 'sasters that befel the people whom
Lord Selkirk sent thfe year before, from Scotland,
the Orkney Islands, and Canada, some of whom
were destined to form a colony on the Red Riv-

260

BARMON S JOURIVAL.

er, and others to traffic with the Natives, in dif-
ferent parts of the Indian cou.itrj. Tliey consist-
ed at first, as I am informed, of two or three hun-
dred men, together >,vit.h a few \i/omen and child-
ren. Those, who went to establish themselves on
the Red River, at a short distance from its en-
trance into the great Vl/innipick Lake, began, soon
after their arrival,, to behave in n hostile manner
tov^ard the people of the North West Company,
who have establiishmcnts io that quarter Of
some of our forts, they actually took possepsion,
and carri(3d away the property which they found
in them ; and, in some instances, thej'^ set fire to
tlie forts, and reduced them to ashes. They also
took Duncan Cameron Esq. a partner of the
, North West Company, and another gentleman,
who is a clerk, whom they carried, m the spring,
to Hudson's Bay, with the intention, asi they fiital-
ed. of taking them to England. — In the course of
the wilnter, as the Express of the North West
Company was passing that weij, destioed to the
Soult St. INfaries, they took possession of that dyo,
perused the hjtters and other paf)ers which had
been sealed up, atid finally carried them to York
Faclory, at Hiidsoini's Bay.

AH ithis unmerited treatment,, at length so
provoked the people of the North West Coniipa-
ny, timt they proceedetl, to retake their own forts,

Harmon's journal.

261

which had not been burned, as well cs some prop-
nrty belonging to those disturbers of the peace.

fn June, ei number of the Brulcs, that is, peo-
ple whose fathecs were white men, and whose
mothers were Indian women, proceeded from the
upper part of Red River, toward the place of
its entrance into the Lake, in order to guard some
property there belonging to the N. W. CoL^ia-
ny. On their way, they were obliged to pass,'
for about two miles, over an open plain, directly
behind Lord Selkirk's establishment. As soon as
they were observed, his people came out in a
body, and fired upon them, twice. This was un-
expected by the Brules ; neither were they pre-
paiod for such an encounter, as many of them
had neither gun nor ammunition. Perceiving how-
eyer, that they must defend themselves or b©
cut oi\] those who had arms returned the fire ;
and the contest continued, until twenty two of
the noble Earl's people fell, and some others
were wounded. The Brules had only onn man
killed, and one wounded.— -This unhappy affair
broke up the colony, Some of the people went
to Hudson's Bay ; but the greater number return-
ed to Canada.

Those of Lord Selkirk's people who came to
the English River and Athabasca, sulFcred great-
ly for the want of provisious. Out of nearly one

.'S^ ^

262

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

hundred who came to Athabasca, twelve actu-
ally lost their lives by starvation ; and all the
others must have shared the same unhappy fate,
had not the people of the North West Compa-
ny supplied them with provisions. In short,
Lord Selkirk lost the last year, in fight and by
starvation, sixty eight of his men ! and still, with
the phrcnzy of a madman, he is resolved oA
pursuing his wild projects.

Wednesday, December 4. There is now about
a foot and an half of snow on the ground.

I have sent fifteen men, with each a sledge
drawn by two dogs and loaded with salmon, to
M^Lcod's Lake, for the subsistence of the peo-
ple who are to pass the winter there, and for
the additional number who will be there in the
spring, to make up the furs into packs. Salm-
on are our chief subsistence here ; and they arc
taken only in the waters which are discharged
into the Pacific Ocean. The outlet of M*=Leod*s
Lake enters Peace River, whose waters, are
finally discharged into the North Sea.

Thursday, January 2, 1817. I have just re-
turned from a neighbouring village, where my
interpreter gave one of the natives a decent
drubbing, for having stolen from us. Soon after,
the Indian who had been beaten, with a number
of his relations, flew to arms, aad surrounded out

camp; but
to gesticuh
permitted i
ordered mj
determined
came a ma
tives that ^
and, if they
otherwise, 1
which if tht
thera. Th<
ter came bj
trade, as if i
Monday^
er of my ch
whom I nar
Wednesd
years of age
my past lif
many instan
from tjbe ve
doubtedly \
destruction,
of the ingrj
si'xh infinite
to me to hi
committed £
tQ»' and ijed

harbIon's journal.

263

camp ; but they proceeded at first no farther than
to gesticulate in a threatening manner. Tlais I
permitted them, for a short time, to do, when I
ordered my men to load their guns; though I was
determined that they should not fire, unless it be-
came a matter of necessity. I then told the Na-
tives that we were prepared to defend ourselves,
and, if they mtended to fire upon us, to begin ; or
otherwise, to walk off, and lay aside their arms,
which if they would not do, we should fire upon
thera. They concluded to retire, and shortly af-
ter came back without their arms, and began to
trade, as if nothing had happened.

Monday^ February 10. This evening the moth-
er of my children, was delivered of a daughter,
whom J name Sally Harmon.

Wednesday, 19. I am this day thirty nine
years of age. When I reflect on the events of
my past life, and recollect, especially, in how
many instances a merciful God has snatched me
from tjie very jaws of death, when it would un-
doubtedly lave delivered me over to everlasting
destruction, I am grieved and ashamed, in view
of the ingratitude with which I have rcqriitcd
si'.ch infinite kindness. My past life now appears
to me to have been a continual course of sins,
committed against a merciful Creator, Benefac-
tor and B»edecmer. I have even denied the Lord

264

HARMON S JOURNAL.

thai bought mc, and that because I couid see no
need of that atonement for sin, which is the only
thing that has stood between me and hopeless

* perdition ! If I have indeed been rescued from

v^ such a wretched condition, if I have been effectu-
ally convinced of my sinfulness, and have been
led, in the exercise of faith, to apply unto the
Lord Jesus Christ for .pardon and for sanctifica-
tion, surely, it can be attributed to nothing but the
grace of God. Much of my life has been spent
in the service of sin j the little that remains, ought
to be sacredly devoted to God and the Redeemer.
May the Holy Spirit enable me to live in the
time to come, as a disciple of the blessed Sa-
viour. »

Monday, September 1. Stuart'' s Lake. On the
8th of May last, I left New Caledonia, and went
as far as Fort Chipewyan, on the Athabasca Lake.
This afternoon, I return'^rl to this place. While
I was at that lake, tht ^ dians who were en-

. camped about the fort, to the number of about
one hundred, rose up in arms against us, on account
of a quarrel between one of their people and one
of our men. We did not, however, come to blows 5
and, after a parley, the Indians were persuaded to
l^y down their arms. — Those Chipeways an; a
savage people ; and they have as i believe, k'iled

^ mure white men, than any other tribe in the North

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

son

West country. A few years alnce, they burned
one of our forts, and killed every person belonging

to it. .;.,^.r

On the 2 Is I of June, I left Athabasca Lake,
at which period, there was still ice floating about
in it. in coming up j?eace River, we saw many
of the buifaloe and red deer, and killed as many
of them as we wanted for our own consumption.
Black bears, also, were in plenty ; and of them,
we killed eleven. One day as I was walking along
the beach alone without my gun, a black bear,
that had cubs, pursued me for nearly a mile.
Happily for me, 1 could outrun her ; and I there-
fore escaped from her terrible paws.

A little below the Rocky Mountain Portage,
along the side of the river, there is a kind of
marsh where earth, of a beautiful yellow colour
is found, which when burned, becomes a pretty
lively red. The natives use it as paint, for which
it answers tolerably well. We, also, use it to
paint our forts and houses. /

Saturday, October 4. This evening, an Indian
arrived froia Frazer's Lake, bringing the disagree-
able intelligence, that yesterday in the afternoon,
our fort there was consunied by fire. Wo hftve
reason to be thankful, however, that most of the
property whicli was in it, was saved

Thursday^ 16. Wo have taken our vegeta-,
34

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8, %

^;-y-«^a{:

HAllMON S JOURNAL.

Hes out of the ground, In consequence of tht
very dry summer, they yielded but poorly. There
were months, during which not a drop of rain
feii. — Fruit of all kinds has been uncomoK^nly
abundant this season.

-^*- Wednesday^ February 18, 1818. I have just
returned fronri a jaunt of twenty three days, to a
place down Frazer's River. While there, the
Natives had concerted a plan to massacre us all ;
but I discovered it, and kept ray people on their
guard. The Indians, perceiving this, dared not
attempt to execute their bloody and unprovoked
purpose.

Saturday^ May 2. Expecting that the ice in
Peace River will soon break up, I have sent off
the last of our people who are going to the Rainy
hke ; and by them ! have forwarded, as usual,
my accounts of the place, and letters to my friends
below« 1 look forward, with pleasing anticipation,
to the return of cnolher spring, when I hope,
if my life is spared, I shall myself leave this coun-
try on ii visit to the civilized world.

Thursday, September 3. Last nigh^ there fell
libimt fvir inches of snow, which is earlier than I
have evfjr before seen it fall, in ihis part of the
country. On the 6th ult. salmon began to come
up thi^ river; but they are not very numerous.

hi the month of June, we took out of this

HARMON S JOURNAL.

267

lake twenty one sturgeon, that were from eight to
twelve feet in length. One of them measured
twelve feet two inches, from its extreme points,
four feet eleven inches round the middle ; and
would weigh from five hundred and fifty, to six
hundred pounds. All the sturgeon that we have
caught, on this side of the mountain, are far su-
perior in flavour, to any I ever saw in any oth-
er part of the world. *

A few days since, we cut down and threshed
our barley. The five quarts, which I sowed on
the first of May, have yielded as many bushels.
One acre of ground, producing in the same pro-
portion that this has done, would yield eighty
four bushels. This is sufficient proof that the
soil, in many p<laces in this quarter, is favourable
to agriculture. It will probably be long, howev-
^r, before it will exhibit the fruits of cultivation.
The Indians, though they often suffer for the
want of food, are too lazy to cultivate the ground.
I have frequently tried to prevail on some of
them to hoe and prepare a piece of ground, prom-
ising them that I would give them potatoes and
turnips, with which to plant it ; but I have not
succeeded. Having been from their infancy train-
ed up to privation, the fear of want is a much
less powerful stimulus to excite them to industry.

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268

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

than it is to those who have always been accus-
tomed to the comforts of civilized life.

Tuesday, October 13. We have several inches
of snow on the ground.

For several years past, Iroquois from Canada,
have been in the habit of coming into different
parts of the North West country, to hunt the
beaver, &;c. The Natives of the country, consider
them as intruders. As they are mere rovers, they
do not feel the same interest, as those who per-
manently reside here, in keeping the stock of ani-
mals good, and therefore they make great havock
among the game, destroying alike the animals
which are young and old. A number of Iroquois
have passed several summers on this side of the
mountain, which circumstance they knew to be
displeasing to the Indians here, who have often
threatened to kill them, if they persisted in de-
stroying the animals on their lands. These men-
aces were disregarded. A month since, an Iro-
quois, with his wife and two children, were all
killed, while asleep, by two Carriers of this vil-
lage, which melancholy event, I hope, will pre-
vent any of the Iroquois from coming into this re-
gion again. ^
' Saturday, JVovember 7. We have now about
a foot of snow on the ground. — 'To-day our peo-
ple returned from the Rainy Lake, and say that,

Harmon's journal*

269

on account of the large quantities of ice that was
drifting in Peace River, they were obhged to
leave the greater part of the goods, which they
had on board of the canoes, but a short distance
this side of the Rocky Mountain Portage. We
shall be obliged, therefore, to bring these goods
on sledges, drawn by dogs from that place, which
is distant from this, about two hundred and eighty
miles. ^

Sunday, February 28, 1819. Mr. George M^
Dougall has arrived here from Frazer's Lake, to
remain, as I am going to M^'Leod's Lake, to pre-
pare for a departure for Head Quarters ; and my
intention is, during the next summer, to visit my
native land. I design, also, to take my family
with me, and leave them there, that they may bo
educated in a civilized and christian manner. The
mother of my children will accompany ^e; and,
if she shall be satisfied to remain in that part of
the world, I design to make her regularly my wife
by a formal marriage. It will be seen by this re-
mark, that my intentions have materially changed,
since the time that I at first took her to live with
me ; and as ray conduct in this respect is differ-
ent from that which has generally been pursued
by the gentlemen of the North West Company, it
will be propor to state some of the reasons which
have governed ray decision, in regard to this

5!l

Jii i

IW-^

i^-iii^

270

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

weighty affair. It has been made with the most
serious deliberation ; and, I hope, under a solemn
sense of my accountability to God.

Having lived with this woman as my wife,
though we were never formally contracted to
each other, during life, and having children by
her, I consider that I am under a moral obliga-
tion not to dissolve the connexion, if she is
willing to continue it. The union which has
been formed bet wet a us, in the providence of
God, has not only been cemented by a long and
mutual performance of kind offices, but, also, by a
more sacred consideration. Ever since my own
mind was turned effectually to the subject of re-
ligion, I have taken pains to instruct her in the
great doctrines and duties of Christianity. My ex-
ertions have not been in vain. Through the mer-
ciful agency of the, Holy Spirit, I trust that she
has become a partaker with me, in the consola-
tions and hopes of the gospel. I consider it to be
my duty to take her to a christian land, where she
may enjoy Divine ordinances, grow in grace, and
ripen for ^lory. — We have wept together over
the early departure of several children, and espe-
cially, over the death of a beloved son. We have
children still living, who are equally dear to us
both. How could I spend my days in the civiliz-
ed world, and leave my beloved children in the

HARMON 8 JOURNAI*

271

wilderness ? The thought has in it the bitterness
of death. How could I tear them from a moth-
er's love, and leave her to mourn over ther ab-
sence, to the day of her death ? Possessing only
the common feelings of humanity, how could I.
think of her, in such circumstances, without an-
guish ? On the whole, I consider the course
which I design to pursue, as the only one which
religion and humanity would justify.

Mr. M^^Dougall informs me, that, not long
since, an Indian died at Frazer's Lake, and left
behind him a widow, who had been in similar cir-
cumstances before, by the loss of a former hus-
band. A day or two before the corpse was to be
burned, she told the relations of her late husband,' .
that she was resolved not to undergo a second
slavery. She therefore left the tent, secretly, in
the evening, and hung herself from a tree.

Among the Carriers, vv idows are slaves to the
relations of their dec« ased husbands, for the term
of two or three years from the commencement of
their widowhood, during which, they are general-
ly treated in a cruel manner. Their heads are
shaved, and it belongs to them to do all the drudg-
ery, about the tent. They are fre uently beaten
with a club or an axe, or some such weapon.

Saturday, May 8. M'^Leod^s Lake. I arriv-
ed here about two months since. Ycsl^erday, the

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most of our people embarked with the returns of
this place, in three canoes ; and a few hours
hence, I shall, with my family, proceed in another,
which will be pushed on by six Canadians.

It is now eight years and an half, since I came
to the west side of the Rocky Mountain. My life,
which has often been in jeopardy, is still preserv-
ed ; my family have generally enjoyed, in a high
degree, the comforts, which this part of the world
affords ; and, especially, they have been exten-
sively blessed with health of body, and content-
ment of mind. Our worldly affairs have prosper-
ed, to as great an extent as we could reasonably
expect. For all these blessings, it becomes us to
return unfeigned thanks, to the great Giver of ev-
ery good gift.

Friday, 14. Rocky Mountain Portage. All
the way to this place, we have drifted down,
amidst great quantities of ice, by which, at five
different places, the river was completely blocked
up, so that we were obliged to tarry, until the
water rose so high, as to remove these barriers.
This is the reason why we have been so long in
coming to this place. Had the river been high,
and yet clear from ice, the current is so strong,
that we might have reached here in two days.

Wednesday, August 18. Fort William. \ have
at length arrived at head quarters. In coming

IN;

ft-;

Harmon's journal.

273

from New Caledonia to this place, which is a dis-
tance of at least three, thousand miles, nothing un-
common has occurred. A few days hence, I shall
leave this place, to proceed to Canada. As I
have already described the country between
this, and Montreal, I shall here conclude mv
Journal.

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CHARACTER

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OF THE CANADIAN VOYAGERS.

Like their ancestors the French, the Cana*
dian Voyagers possess lively and fickle disposi-
tions ; and they are rarely subject to depres-
sion of spirits, of long continuance, even when
in circumstances the most adverse. Although
what they consider good eating and drinking
constitutes their chief good, yet, when necessi-
ty compels them to it, they submit to great
privation ai.d hardship, not only without com-
plaining, but even with cheerfulness and gai-
ety. They are very talkative, and extreme-
ly thoughtless, and make many resolutions,
which are almost as soon broken as iorraed.
They never think of providing for future wants ;
and seldom lay up any part of their earnings,
to serve them in a day of sickness, or in the

276

CHARACTER OF THK

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decline of life. Trifling provocations will often
throw them into a rage ; but they are easily
appeased when in anger, and they never har-
bour a revengeful purpose against those, by
whom they conceive that they have been injur-
ed. They are not brave ; but when they aj)-
prehend little danger, they will often, as they
say, play the man. They are very deceitful,
are exceedingly smooth and polite, and are even
gross flatterers to the face of a person, whom
they will basely slander, behind his back. They
pay little regard to veracity or to honesty.
Their word is not to be trusted ; and they
are much addicted to pilfering, and will even
steal articles of considerable value, when a fa-
vourable opportunity offers. A secret they can-
not keep. They rarely feel gratitude, though
they are often generous. They are obedient,
but not faithful servants. By flattering their
vanity, of which they have n ot a little, they
may be persuaded to undertake the most diffi-
cult enterprises, provided their lives are not
endangered. Although they are generally una-
ble to read, yet they acquire considerable knowl-
edge of human nature, and some general infor-
mation, in regard to the state of this country.
As they leave Canada while they are young,
they have but little knowledge of the principles

CANADIAN VOYAGERS.

277

of the religion, which their Priests profess to fol-
low, and before they have been long in the In-
dian country, they pay little more attention to
the sabbath, or the worsliip of God, or any
other Divine institution, than the savages them-
selves.

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ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS

^ \^^:'

'.f*.'

LIVING WEST or THE #;

ROCKY MOUNTAIN.

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ACCOUNT, &c.

As the Indians living on the west side of the
Rocky Mountain, differ greatly in their language,
manners, customs, religion, &;c. from those on the
east side, it may be proper to give concisely a
separate account of them, and of the country
which they inhabit. In doing this, I shall dwell
more particularly on those things which are pecu-
liar to these people, as I design, in another place,
to give a general description of the Indians, which
shall have a principal reference, however, to the
more numerous tribes on the east side of the
Mountain. I shall, I hope, be pardoned, if some
repetition shall be found, of things contained in my
journal, as it cannot easily be avoided.

That part of the country, west of the Rocky
Mountain, with which I am acquainted, has, ever
since the North West Company first made an es-
36

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H i

282

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

'mM

4 1h:i.h

r *,

;i!LJ:

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t- ft;-.

tablishment there, which was In 1806, gone by
the name of New Caledonia; and may extend
from north to south, about five hundred miles, and
from east to west, three hundred and fifty or four
hundred. The post at Stuart's Lake, is nearly in
the centre of it, and lies, as already mentioned in
my Journal, in 54° 30' North Latitude, and in 125°
West Longitude from Greenwich. In this lar^e
extent of country, there are not more than five
thousand ludiaub, including men, women and chil-
dren.

New Caledonia is considerably mountainous.
Between its elevated parts, however, there arc
pretty extensive valleys, along which pass innume-
rable small rivers and brooks. It contains a great
number of small lakes, two of which are conside-
rably large. These are Stuart's Lake, which is
about four hundred miles in circumference, and
Nate-ote-tain Lake, which is nearly twice as large.
I am of the opinion that about one sixth part of
New Caledonia, is covered with water. There
are but two large rivers. One of these I denom-
kiate Fraser'p River, which may be sixty or
seventy rods wide. It rises in the Rocky Moun-
tain, within a short distance of the source of
Peace River ; and is the river which Sir Alex-
ander M<=Kenzie followed a considerable distance,
when he went to the Pacific Ocean, in 1793, and

whici

is no

ble s!

edoni

passii

ters t

of Fr

cleval

which

Peace

Mouni

are so

on the

from 15

of the

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few d{

times

momet

milder

in the

warm,

cool.

Snow

ber, ar

May.

ialls U

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS;

283

which he took to be the Columbia River ; but it
is now known to be several miles north of that no-
ble stream. The other large river of New Cal-
edonia, rises near Great Bear's Lake ; and after
passing through several considerable lakes, it en-
ters the Pacific Ocean, several hundred miles north
of Fraser's River.

The mountains of New Caledonia, in point of
elevation, are not to be compared with those
which we pass through in coming up that part of
Peace River, which lies between the Rocky
Mountain portage ana Finlay's Branch. There
are some, however, which are pretty lofty ; and
on the summits of one in particular, which we see
from Stuart's Lake, the snow lies during the whole
of the year.

The weather is not severely cold, except for a
few days in the winter, when the mercury is some-
times as low as 32° below zero, in Faranheit's ther-
mometer, ^'he remainder of the season, is much
milder than it is on the other side of the mountain,
in the same Latitude. The summer is never very
warm, in the day time ; and the nights are generally
cool. In every month in the year, there are frosts.
Snow generally falls about the fifteenth of Novem-
ber, and is all dissolved by about the fifteenth of
May. About M^Lf jd's Lake the snow sometimes
falls to the depth of five feet; and I imagine that

■V;

■*

D !■

284

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

it is to be attributed to the great depth of the
snow, that no large animals of anj kind, except-
ing a few solitary ones, are to be met with.

There are a few Moose ; and the Natives oc-
casionally, kill a black bear. Cariboo are also
found, at some seasons. Some smaller animals
are found, though they are not numerous. They
consist of beavers, otters, lynxes or cats, fishers,
martins, minks, wolverines, foxes of diflerent kinds,
badgers, polecats, hares and a few wolves. The
fowls are swans, bustards, geese, cranes, ducks of
several kinds, partridges, &c. All the lakes and
rivers are well furnished with excellent fish.
They are the sturgeon, white-fish, trout, sucker
and many of a smaller kind. Salmon, also, visit
the streams, in very considerable numbers, in Au-
tumn. A small share of industry, therefore, would
enable the Natives, at all times, to provide for
themselves a sufficient supply of agreeable, whole-
some and nutritious food.

The Natives of New Caledonia, we denomi-
nate Carriers ; but they call themselves Ta-cul-
lies, which signifies people who go upon water.
This name originated from the fact that they
generally go from one village to another, in ca-
noes. They are of the middle stature, and the
men are well proportioned ; but the women are
generally short and thick, and their lower limbs

^1 ...^

i'..;^;i

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

285

are disproportionately large. Both sexes are re-
markablj negligent and slovenly, in regard to
their persons ; and ' ey are filthy in their cooke-
ry. Their dispositions are lively and quiet ; and
they appear to be happy, or at least contented, in
their wretched situation- They are indolent ; but
apparently more from habit than by nature ; and
probably this trait in their character, originates
from the circumstance, that they procure a liveli-
hood, with but little labour. Whenever we em-
ploy any of them, either to work about the fort
or in voyaging, they are sufficiently laborious and
active ; and they appear to be pleased, when we
thus furnish them with employment. They are
not in the habit of stealing articles of great val-
ue ; but they are the sliest pilferers, perhaps,
upon the face of the earth. They will not only
pilfer from us, but, when favourable opportunities
offer, they are guilty of the same low vice among
their friends and relations. They are remarka-
bly fond of the white people. They seldom be-
gin a quarrel with any of us, though they are nat-
urally brave. When any of our people, however,
treat them ill, they defend themselves with cour-
age, and with considerable dexterity ; and some of
them will fight a tolerable Canadian battle.

Their language is very similar to that of the
Chipewyans, and has a great affinity to the tonofues,

W* '■■■ ^

f'iiti',

'■ I

"Sf '

286

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

spoken by the Beaver Indians and the Sicaunies.
Between all the different villages of the Carriers,
there prevails a difference of dialect, to such an
extent, that they often give different names to the
most common utensils. Every village has its par-
ticular name, and its inhabitants are called after
the name of the village, in the same manner as
people in the civilized world receive a name, from
the city or country which they inhabit.

Their clothing consists of a covering made of
the skins of the beaver, badger, muskrat, cat or
hare. The last they cut mto strips, about one
inch broad, and then weave or lace them togeth-
er, until they become of a sufficient size to cover
their bodies, and to reach to their knees. This
garment they put over their shoulders, and
tie about their waists. Instead of the above
named skins, when the^ can obtain them from
us, they greatly prefer, and make use of blank-
ets, capots, or Canadian coats, cloth or moose
and red deer skin. They seldom use either
leggins or shoes, in the summer. At this sea-
son the men often go naked, without any thing
to cover even that part of the body which
civilized, and the most, even of savage people, think
it necessary *o conceal. Indeed they manifest as
little sense of shame in regard to this subject, as
the very brute creation. The women, however,

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

287

in addition to the robe of beaver or dressed moose
skins, wear an apron, twelve or eighteen inches
broad, which reaches nearly down to their knees.
These aprons are made of a piece of deer skin, or
of salmon skins, sewed together. Of the skin of
this fish, they sometimes make leggins, shoes,
bags, &;c. but they are not durable ; and therefore
they prefer deer skins and cloth, which are more
pliable and soft. The roughness of salmon skins,
renders them particularly unpleasant for aprons.

A few of the male Carriers recently make use
of the breech-cloth, made of cloth which they pro-
cure from us ; but as evidence that no great sense
of delicacy has induced them to wear it, you will
see it one day at its proper place, the next, prob-
ably, about their heads, and the third around their
necks ; and so on, repeatedly shifted from one
place to another.

Both sexes perforata their noses ; and from
them, the men often suspend an ornament, consist-
ing of a piece of an oyster shell, or a small piece
K)^ brass or copper. The women, particularly
those who are young, run a wooden pin through
their noses, upon each end of which they fix a
kind of shell bead, which is about an inch and ao
half long, and nearly the size of the stem of a
common clay pipe. These beadr^, they obtain
from their neighbours, the At-e-n&s, who purchase

k" ■

'i -II

288

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

|ii'^^.:|i,i";^i

them from another tribe, that is said to take them
on the sea shore, where they are reported to be
found in plenty.

All the Indians in this part of the country, are
remarkably fond of these beads ; and in their
dealings with each other, they constitute a kind of
circulating medium, like the money of civilized
countries. Twenty of these beads, they consider
as equal in value to a beaver's skin. The elderly
people neglect to ornament their heads, in thf
same manner as they do the rcBt of their persons,
and g-enerally wear their hair short. But the
younger people of both sexes, who feel more so-
licitous to make themselves agreeable to each oth-
er, wash and paint their faces, and let their hair
grow long. The paint which they make use of,
consists of vermilion, which they occasionally ob-
tain from us ; or more commonly, of a red stone,
pounded fine, of which there are two kinds. The
powder of one kind of these stones, mixed with
grease, and rubbed upon their faces, gives them
a glittering appearance. «lnt ♦

The young women and girls wear a parcel of
European beads, strung together, and tied to a
lock of hair, directly behind each ear. The men
have a sort of collar of the shell beads already
mentioned, which thoy wind about their heads, or
throw around their necks. In the summer season,

ACCOUNt OP THE INDIANS.

289

,f ■ I

hoih sexes bathe often ; and this is the only time,
when the married people wash themselves. One
of their customs is sufficient to evince their ex-
treme filthiness, and that is, whenever they blow
their noses^ they rub the mucus between both
hands, until they become dry.

Among the Carriers, it is customary for the
girls, from the age of eight to eleven years, to
wear a kind of veil or fringe over their eyes, made
either of strung beads, or of narrow strips of deer
skin, garnished with porcupine quills. While of
this age, they are not allowed to eat any thing,
excepting the driest food ; and especially they
may not eat the head of any animal. If they
should, their relations, as they imagine, would
soon languish and die. The women, also, during
their pregnancy, and for some time after they are
delivered, are restricted to the same kind of food.

The lads, as soon as they come to the age of
puberty, tie cords, wound with swan's down^
around each leg, a little below the knee, which
they wear during one year, and then, they arc
considered as men.

The Carriers are unusually talkative ; and
when fifteen or twenty of them get into a house,
they make an intolerable noise. Men, women and
children, keep their tongues constantly in motion;
and in controversy, he who has the strongest, and
37

¥ m

i .

290

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

clearest voice, is of course heard the most easily,
and, consequently, succeed? best in his argument.
They take great delight, also, in singing, or hum-
ming, or whistling a dull air. In short, whether
at home or abroad, they can hardly be contented
with their mouths shut. It was a long time be-
fore we could keep them still, when they came to
our Ibrts. And even yet, when they visit us,
which is almost every day, during the whole year,
Miey will often, inadvertently, break out into a
song. But as soon as we check them, or they re-
collect of themselves what they arc about, they
stop short ; for they are desirous of pleasing.
The above trait in their character, certainly evin-
ces much contentment with their condition, and
cheerfulness of spirit.

Both sexes, of almost every age, are much ad-
dicted to play, or rather gambling. They pass
the greater part of their iirae, especially in the
winter season, and both days and nights, in some
kind of game ; and the men will often loose the
last rag of clothes, which they have about them.
But so far from being dejected by such ill fortune,
they often appear to be proud of having lost their
all ; and will even boastingly say, that they are as
L^ked as a dog, having not a rag with which to
cover themselves. Should they, in such circum-
stances, meet with a friend, who shoiild lend them

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

291

something to wrap around thei/ bodies, it is highly
probable, that thej would immediately go and
play away the borrowed garment. Or, if the bor-
rower belonged to another village, he would be
likely to run off with it, and the owner would ne-
ver hear of him afterward; for I never knew a
Carrier to be grateful for a favour bestowed upon
him. At play, they often loose a part of a gar-
ment, as the sleeves of a coat, which some of
them now purchase from us, a whole, or the half
of a leggin, which they will tear off, and deliver
to the winner. They have been known to cut off
a foot or more of their guns, when lost at play ;
for, like more gentlemanly gamblers, they consider
such debts, as debts of honour.

The Carriers are not so ingenious as their
neighbours, the Nate-ote-tains and At-e-nas. The
men, however, make canoes, which are clumsily
wrought, of the aspin tree, as well as of the bark
of the spruce fir. The former, will carry from
half a ton to a ton and an half burthen, while the
latter, will carry from one to four grown persons.
The women make excellent nets, of the inner
bark of the willow tree, ajid of nettles, which an-
swer better for taking small fish, than any which
we obtain from Canada, made of twine or thread.

The Carriers, in common witli the other In-
dian tribes, before their country was visited by

•4 ' \ .

I' I

292

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

If 'I I]

Sill

lljf 'iM

white people, made use of stones, instead of axes,
and of bones, for knives ; and with these, they
constructed wooden dishes, and other vessels of
the rind of the birch and pine trees, &c. Some
of these vessels were used to cook their victuals
in, and many of these people still make use of them ;
for they are too poor to purchase brass or copper
kettles from us. They have, also, other vessels,
which are manufactured of the small roots or
fibers of the cedar or pine tree, closely laced to-
gether, which serve them as buckets to put water
in. 1 have seen one at Fraser's Lake, made of
the same materials, that would hold sixty or seven-
ty gallons, which they make use of when a feast is
given to all the people of the village. All the
vessels fabricated of roots, as well as the most of
their bows and arrows, they obtain from their
neighbours, above mentioned.

The Carriers are remarkably fond of their
wives, and a few of them have three or four; but
polygamy is not general among them. The men
do the most of the drudgery about the house,
sjich as cutting and drawing fire wood, and
bringing water. In the winter months, they drink
but little water ; but to quench their thirst, they
eat half melted snow, which they generally keep
on the top of a stick, stuck into the ground, before
the fire. >

ACCOimT OP THE INDIANS.

293

As the Carriers are fond of their wives, they
are, as naturally might be supposed, very jealous of
them ; but to their daughters, they allow every
liberty, for the purpose, as they say, of keeping
the young men from intercourse with the married
women. As the young women may thus bestow
their favours on whom, and as often as they
please, without the least censure from their pa-
rents, or reproach to their character, it might
naturally be expected that they would be, as
I am informed they actually are, very free with
their persons. — In the following particular, the
Carriers differ from all the other Indian tribes,
with whom I have been acquainted. Among oth-
er tribes, the father or mother in law, will never,
excepting when drunk, speak to a son or daughter
in law ; but the Carriers make no distinction, in
this respect.

The Carriers reside a part of the year in vil-
lages, built at convenient places for taking and
"drying salmon, as they come up the rivers. These
fish they take in abundance, with little labour;
and they constitute their principal food, during
the whole year. They are not very unpalatab'o
when eaten alone ; but with vegetables, they ^re-
pleasant food. The Natives, however, are too
slothful to raise vegetables, and use none, except-
ing a few whJch they obtain from us.

294

ACCOUNT OF THE INJJIANS.

Toward the middle of April, and sometimes
sooner '»ey leave their villages, to go and pass
about t\ cionths at the small lakes, from which,
at that season, they take white fish, trout, carp,
&c. in considerable numbers. But when these be-
gin to fail, they return to their villages, and sub-
sist on the small fish, which they dried when at
the lakes, or on salmon, should they have been so
provident as to have kept any until that late sea-
son ; or they eat herbs, the inner bark or sap of
the cypress tree, berries. &;c. At this season, few
fish of any kind, are to be taken out of the lakes
or rivers of New Caledonia. In this manner the
Natives barely subsist, until about the middle
of August, when salmon again begin to make
their appearance, in all the rivers of any consid-
erable magnitude ; and they have them at most
of their villages in plenty, until the latter end
of September, or the beginning of October. For
about a month, they come up in crowds ; and
the noses of some of them are either worn or
rotten off, and the eyes of others have perished
in their heads ; and yet, in this maimed condition,
they are surprisingly alert, in coming up the rap-
ids. These maimed fishes are generally at the
head of large bands, on account of which, the
Natives call them Mi-u-ties, or Chiefs. The In-
dians say that they have suffered these disaf*-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

295

tors, by falling back among the stones, when
coming up difficult places in the rapids which
they pass.

The Carriers take salmon in the following
manner. All the Indians of the village assist in
making a dam across the river, in which they oc-
casionally leave places, to insert their baskets or
nets of wicker work. These baskets are gene-
rally from fifteen to eighteen feet in length, and
from twelve to fifteen feet in circumference. The
end at which the salmon enter, is made with
twigs, in the form of the entrance of a wire mouse
trap. When four or five hundred salmon have
entered this basket,- they either take it to the
shore to empty out the iish; or they take them
out at a door in the top, and transport them to
the shore in their large wooden canoes, which are
convenient for this purpose. When the salmon
are thrown upon the beach, the women take out
their entrails, and hang them by their tails on
poles, in the open air. After remaining in this
situation for a day or two, they take them down
and cut them thinner, and then leave them to
hang for about a month in the open air, when
they will have become entirely dry. They are
then put into their store houses, which are built
on four posts, about ten (eet from the ground,
to prevent animals from destroying them j and

J '

'±

/■ Ml

296

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

.. ^' ,.

provided they are preserved dry, they will re-
main good for several years.

The Carriers take beavers in nets, made ot
thongs of cariboo skins, or in baskets made of
young cypress stadles ; and sometimes they shoot
them with bows and arrows, or guns, or take
them in steel traps, which we sell to thero-, and
of which they begin to understand the value.
Cats, martins, fishers, foxes, minks, &c. they take
in a kind of spring trap, which consists of a large
piece of wood, which these animals, by nibbling
at the bait, cause to fall upon and crush them.
Bears,, swans and hares they generally take in
snares ; and the cat, also, they sometimes take
in this manner. They litint the beaver and bear,
more for the sake of their flesh, than to obtain the
skins ; for it is with the meat of these animals
that they make their feasts, in remembrance of
their deceased relatives.

At such festivals, they cut up as many dressed
moose and red deer skins as they can well procure,
into slips, about eighteen inches long, and twelve
inches broad, and distribute them among their
friends and relatives. And they firmly believe,
that these ceremonies must be performed, before
their departed relative can be at rest, in the
place whither he has gone, which they think to

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

297

be the interiour of the earth, where they expect
that they shall all at length be happy.

The Carriers have little that can be denom-
inated civil government, in the regulation of their
concerns. There are some persons among them,
who are called Mi-u-ties or Chiefs, and for whom
they appear to have a little more respect than
for the others ; but these chiefs have not much
authority or influence over the rest of the com-
munity. Any one is dubbed a Mi-u-ty, who is
able and willing, occasionally, to provide a feast,
for the people of his village. An Indian, howev-
er, who has killed another, or been guilty of
some other bad action, finds the house or tent of
the chief a safe retreat, so long as he is allowed
to remain there. But as soon as he leaves it,
the Chief can afford the criminal no more protec-
tion, than any other person of ihe village can, un-
less he lets him have one of his garments. This
garment of the Chief, will protect a malefactor
from harm, while he wears it ; for no person
would attack him, while clothed with this safe
guard, sooner than he would attack the chief
himself; and if he should, the chief would re-
venge the insult, in the same manner as if it
were offered directly to himself. The revenge
which the Chief, in this case, would take, would
be to destroy the life of the offending person, or
38

%mM

■ \ \-'

298

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIAN^.

it'

* ''''^ I'll,

that of some of his near relations, or the life of
one of the same tribe, if he should happen to
he a stranger.

When two or more persons disagree at play,
as IS frequently the case, or contend on any
other account, the chief, or oome respectable
and elderly man, will step in between the two
wranglers, and settle the dispute, generally with-
out their coming to blows.

The people of every village have a cert .in
extent of country, which they consider iheii own,
and in which they may hunt and fish ; but they
may not transcend these bounds, without pur-
chasing the privilege of those who claim the
land. Mountains and rivers serve them as boun-
daries, and they are not often broken over.

The people of one village do not often visit
those of another, as there are generally misun-
derstandings existing between them, which are
occasioned by murders, and at times by the hunt-
ing of the people of one village, in a clandestine
manner, on the territories of their neighbours.
By one cause or another, they are kept in a per-
petual broil. They say however, that murders
do not occur so frequently among them as they
did before they wer** visited by the white people.
*• The Carriers arc the most ignorant people
among whom I have ever been. They appear to

■ ;■{»

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

299

have only a very confused and limited idea of the
existence of a Supremo Being, the maker and
governour of the world, or of the devil or any
evil spirit ; and they, therefore, neither worship
the former nor fear the latter. But they believe,
as it has been already observed, in the immortal-
ity of the soul, and think when it leaves its pres-
ent body, it goes into the bowels of the earth,
where, they suppose it will be more happy
than when an inhabitant of its surface. But
they seem to have no idea of future rewards or
punishments, in consequence of any thing which
they may have done, while resident on earth.
And whether the soul will be furnished with
another body, when it leaves that which it ani-
mated on earth, they say they cannot tell, it being,
as they add, beyond their comprehension. They
firmly believe, however, that a departed soul can,
if it pleases, come back to the earth, in a hu-
man shape or body, in order to see his friends,
who are still alive. Therefore, as they are about
to set fire to the pile of wood, on which a corpse
is laid, a relation of the deceased person stands
at his feet, and asks him if he will ever come
back among them. Then the priest or magician,
with a grave countenance, stands at the head of
the corpse, and locks through both his hands on
its naked breast, and then raises them toward

ii I

t-Mli

300

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

II li

heaven, and blows through them, as they say, the
soul of the deceased, that it may go and find, and
enter into a relative. Or, if any relative, is pres-
ent, the priest will hold his hands on the head
of this person, and blow through them, that the
spirit of the deceased may enter into him or
her ; and then, as they affirm, the first child
which this person has, will possess the soul of
the deceased person.

. When the Carriers are severely sick, they
often think that they shall not recover, unless
they divulge to a priest or magician, every crime
which they may have committed, which has
hitherto been kept secret. In such a case, they
will make a full confession, and then they ex-
pect that their lives will be spared, for a time
longer. But should they keep back a single
crime, they as fully believe that they shall suf-
fer almost instant death. The crimes which
they most frequently confess, discover something
of their moral character, and therefore deserve
to be mentioned. A man will often acknowl-
edge that he has had a criminal and incestuous
connexion with his own daughter or sister, or a
criminal intercourse with a bitch ! and a woman
will confess, that she has had the same infamous
connexion with her own relations, or with a dog !
Murder is not considered by the Carriers as a

ymx

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

301

ners as a

crime of great magnitude ; and, therefore, it
makes no part of their acknowledgements, in
their confessions to the priests or magicians. If
a murder be committed on a person belonging to
a tribe with whom they are at enmity, they re-
gard it as a brave and noble action. Should one
Indian kill another, belonging to the same village
w^ith himself, the murderer is considered as a per-
son void of sense ; and he must quit his village
and remain away, until he can pay the relations
of the deceased for the murder ; and even after
this has been done, it often occasions quarrels, be-
tween the parties.

The Carriers are so very credulous, and have
so exalted an opinion of us, thai they firmly believe,
though I have often assured them of the contra-
ry, that any of the Traders or Chiefs, as they call
us, can, at pleasure, make it fair or foul weather.
And even yet when they are preparing to set out
on an excursion, they will come and oiTer to pay
us, provided we will make or allow it to be fair
weather, during their absence from their homes.
They often inquire of us whether salmon, that
year, will be in plenty in their rivers. They also
think, that by merely looking into our books, wf
can cause a sick person to recover, let the distance
which he may be from us be ever so great. In
short, they look upon those who can read and write,

302

ACCOUiNT OF THE INDIANS.

as a kind of supernatural beings, who know all tlia(
is past, and who can see into futurity.

For a considerable time after we had been
among them, they were fully of the opinion, that
the white people had neither fathers nor moth-
ers ; but came into the world in a supernatural
way, or were placed on ihe earth by the sun or
moon.

As a further specimen of their limited concep-
tions, they now firmly believe that a watch is the
heart of the sun, because it is ever in motion, as
they say, like that great body of light. They add
further, that unless a watch and the sun were
nearly related, it would be impossible for the
watch, considering the distance which there is be-
tween them, to point out so precisely the minute
when the sun is to make its appearance and to
leave us. In short, they say that the one must
know perfectly well what the other is about, and
that there must be some connexion between them.
as between the members of the human body.

The Carriers give the following account of the
tradition, which they believe, respecting the form-
ation of the earth, and the general destruction of
mankind, in an early period of the world. Water
at first overspread the face of the world, which is
a plain surface. At the top of the water, a musk-
rat was swimming about, in different directions..

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

303

At length he concluded to dive to the bottom, to
see what he could jfind, on which to subsist ; but
he found nothing but mud, a little of which he
brought in his mouth, and placed it on the surface
of the water, where it remained. He then went
for more mud, and placed it with that already
brought up ; and thus he continued his o-perations,
until he had formed a considerable hillock. This
land increased by degrees, until it overspread a
large part of the world, which assumed at length
its present form. The earth, in process of time,
became peopled in every part, and remained in
this condition for many years. Afterwards a fire
run over it all, and destroyed every human being,
excepting one man and one woman. They saved
themselves by going into a deep cave, in a large
mountain, where they remained for several days,
until the fire was extinguished. They then came
forth from their hiding place ; and from these
two persons, the whole earth has been peopled.
Besides the feasts, made for their dead, which
have been described in my Journal, the Carriers
give others, merely to entertain their guests, who
are frequently all the people of a village, as well as
a few who belong to a neighbouring village. The
following ceremonies attend such festivals. The
person who makes the entertainment, who is al-
ways a Chief, boils or roasts several whole beav-

' i

% . 1

304

ACCOUNT OF THE INDlANb.

ers : and as soon as his quests are seated around

»«l

[^"tm.

a tire, which is in the centre of his house, he takes
up a whole beaver, and with a raised voice, re-
lates how and vviiere he killed it, that all present
may know that it came from his own land. At-
ter that necessary explanation is over, he steps
forward, and presents the tail end to the most re-
spectable person of the house, and stands holding
the animal with both hands until this person has
eaten what he chooses. The chief then passes
on with his beaver to the second person, who eats
as the first had done ; and then to a third ; and
so on, until he has presented it to the whole circle,
should any part now remain, it is laid down near
the centre of the house ; and another whole bea-
ver is taken up, which is served round in the
same manner as the first. And thus the chief
continues to do, until his guests have tasted of
every beaver, which he had prepared for the feast.
The remaining fragments of the beavers, are now
cut up into smaller pieces, and distributed among
the women and children, or put into dishes, which
the men have before them, and which they al-
ways bring with them, when they attend upon a
feast. The women then come in with large dish-
es full of berries, and each puts a ladle full into
every dish of the men. When they have eaten
what they choose of the berries, (for the Indians

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

305

neve- urge their guests to eat more than they
please) both men and women join, in singing sev-
eral songs. The airs of many of these songs,
which have been composed and set to musick, by
their poets, expressly for the occasion, greatly
resemble those which I have heard sung, in Ro*-
man Catholic churches. After singing is conclud-
ed, each guest rises, with his dish and whatever
it contains, and returns to his own dwelling, and
thus the festival ends. At these feasts, there are
frequently Indians, who will drink at least a
quart of melted bear's oil, merely to show how
much they can drink.

At some of their festivals, the men and women
join in a dance. Their musick on these occasions,
consists of the singing of one person or more, ac-
companied by the shaking of the she-she-qui,
which is, ordinarily, a covered dish, with a han-
dle ; but sometimes it is curiously made in the
form of a bird, and withjn it, are either gravel
stones or shot. Others beat on a drum, with but
one head ; and these are all the musical instru-
ments, if they can with propriety be so denominat-
ed, which I have ever seen among them. When
they dance, they paint their faces, and put swan's
down on their heads, and while they are dancing,
others are almost continually blowing more through
both their hands, on the dancers. They have not
39

•. I'

306

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

1 f ' ,

^ I

many different kinds of dancing ; but they have
a great variety of songs, the airs of which are
pleasant to the ear when heard at some distance
from the singers, who generally have strong voic-
es. All Indians have accurate ears ; and, there-
fore, they keep exact *^me when they dance or

sing.

The Carriers are almost entirely ignorant of
medicine, not having any knowledge of the virtue
which is found in roots and herbs, when adminis-
tered to the sick. When one of them is sick, they
call in the priest or doctor, for the same person
discharges the functions of both ; and he is joined
by several other persons in singing a very mel-
ancholy air, over the sick person, which they
think serves greatly to mitigate his pain, and often
restores him to perfect health. Before the doc-
tor will afford his assistance, in doing which he
makes many jestures, and goes through much cer-
emony, he must receive a present. But should
his patient die under his care, he must restore to
the relations of the deceased, the present which
he had received. The Carriers are the only Indi-
ans with whom I have been acquainted, who
make no use of roots and herbs, and the bark of
certain trees, with the sick. They, however,
place great confidence in our medicines.

During the winter months many of the Car-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

307

riers make their dwellings in the earth, in the
following manner. They dig a hole in the ground
to the depth of about two feet, from the oppo-
site sides of which, they erect two considera-
ble sticks, to support a ridge-pole. They then
lay poles from the margin of the hole to the
ridge-pole, until they have completely enclosed
the dwelling, excepting a hole which is left near
the top, which serves the double purpose of a
door by which they enter, and leave the hut,
upon an upright post, in which, notches arc cut ;
and an opening for the smoke to pass off. The
poles are made tight, by stopping the intersti-
ces with hay, or by covering them with bark ;
and dirt is then thrown over them, to a consid-
erable thickness. These huts are far from be-
ing healthy; but they are commodious for peo-
ple who are clad as poorly, as arc most of the
Carriers.

The Indians on the west side of the Rocky
Mountain, erect buildings, in which they depobit
the ashes and bones of their dead. The side
posts of these structures, are about six feet high,
a roof, covered with bark, is erected upon these
posts, in the form of the roofs of houses in the civi-
lized part of the world ; and around theirsides, are
broad boards, made by splitting trees, which they
hew. and then smooth over with a crooked krife.

"^WM

308

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

-». t »j* i

On these boards, which are about an inch thick,
they paint images to represent the sun, moon,
stars and dilTerent kinds of animals. Within these
buildings, the remains of the dead are contained

y in boxes, of different dimensions, which in some in-
stances, stand on the top of one upright post, and
in other cases, are supported by four. The paints
which they use, in describing the figures on these
buildings, consist of black and red stones, which
they grind fine, and of a yellow and a red earth.
These substances, they mix with glue, which they
obtain by boiling the feet of the buffaloc, or from
the inside of sturgeon, where these fish are in
plenty. They put on their paints with a brush,
m:.de of the hair which they take from the leg
of the moose.

Among the Carriers, there are some conjurors,
who whenever they please, will vomit blood, or
swallow a small toad, alive. By doing the latter,
however, they are made sick, for three or four
days; and yet they are ever ready to do it, for a
mere trifling recompense. ,

Among the Indians who inhabit New Caledo-

' nia, the Sicaunies deserve to be mentioned. They
are a small part of a tribe who, but a few years
since, came from the east side of the Rocky Moun-
tain. They now bring the produce of their hunts
to McLeod's Lake. The winter months, however,

'*>

. I-

"'Ay

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

309

a greater part of them pass among their relations,
on the east side of the Mountain, where they sub-
sist on buffaloe, moose and red deer. Notwith-
standing they are tolerable hunters, they would
not be able to kill a sufficiency of beavers to serve
themselves and families, during the winter, where
the snow is so deep, as it generally is in New Cal-
edonia.

The people who are now called Si-cau-nies, I
suspect, at no distant period, belonged to the tribe,
called Beaver Indians, who inhabit the lower part
of Peace River ; for they differ but little from
them in dialect, manners, customs, &;c. Some
misunderstanding between the Sicaunies and the
rest of the tribe to which they formerly belong-
ed, probably drove them from place to place, up
Peace River, until they were, at length, obliged
to cross the Rocky Mountain. The Sicaunies, are
more brave, and better armed than the Carriers,
who have, as yet, but few fire arms; and it is
probable that the former will make encroach-
ments upon the latter. The Sicaunies, however,
are a wretched people ; for they suffer greatly
for the want of food, during nearly one fourth
part of the year, when they barely support life,
by means of a few unpalatable roots. Yet they
are remarkably fond of the country, where they
now are; and frequently intermarry with the Car-

■ ^ h : i

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310

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

riers, and pass a part of their time with them, at
their villages. They have, also, adopted many of
the customs of the Carriers, one of which is, to
burn their dead ; whereas, while they resided
on the other side of the Mountain, they were ac-
customed to bury them in the earth. The
Sicaunies are not an ingenious people ; and I
know of nothing which they manufacture, ex-
cepting a few ill wrought bows and arrows, wood-
en dishes, &c.

There is a tribe of Indians not far from the
Columbia River, who are called Flat-Heads. By
fixing boards upon the heads of their children, they
compress them in such a mariner as to cause them
to assume the form of a wedge. Another tribe
in New Caledonia, denominated Nate-ote-tains,
pierce a hole through the under lips of their
daughters, into which they insert a piece of wootl,
in the shape of the wheel of a pulley ; and as the
girls grow up, this wheel is enlarged, so that a
woman of thirty years of age, will have one near-
ly as large as a dollar. This they consider, adds
much to their beauty ; but these wheels are cer-
tainly very inconvenient, and to us, they appear
very uncouth and disagreeable.

A CnSNERAL

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS

ON THE EAST SIDE OP TB&

ROCKY MOUNTAIN.

~^J^il:£de^

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ACCOUNT, &c.

I i^-

I have been acquainted with fifteen different
tribes of Indians, which are the Sauteux, Crees,
Assiniboins, Rapid Indians, Black feet Indians,
Blood Indians, Sursees,Cautonies,Mu9kagoes,Chip-
eways, Beaver Indians, Sicaunies, Tel-cullies, Ate*
n^s and Nate-ote-tains. The parts of the country,
which they severally inhabit, have already been no-
ticed, in my Journal.

The tribes that are the most enlightened, and
that have advanced the farthest toward a state
of civilization, are the Sauteux or Chipeways, the
Muskagoes and the Crec", or Knisteneux, as they
have been sometimes denominated. These tribes
have a greater knowledge than the other Indians^
of the medicinal qualitiee of the bark of trees, and

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

*i^

I J V it \ij Si« »

% ' r.

I' )

r, tff"

of herbs, roots, &c. and their medical skill, eiiEibics
them heavily to tax the other tribes. Indeed,
their medicines, with their skill iti regard to their
application, form considerable articles of com-
merce with their neighbours. Sometimes, for a
handsome compensation, they will instruct a per-
son where to procure ingredients, and how to pre-
pare them as medicines, to be used in particular
cases. It is very probable, however, that the In-
dian doctors, like some apothecaries in the civiliz-
ed world, sell some medicines, of little or no value.
It is also well known to those acquainted with
the Indians, that their physicians frequently effect
cures with their roots, herbs, &lc. in cases, which
would baffle the skill and the drugs, of a scientifick
physician. ;; it < . ,-,

The white people have been among the above
mentioned tribes, for about one hundred and fifty
years. To this circumstance it is probably to be
attributed, that the knowledge of these Indians is
more extensive, than that of the other tribes.
But I very much question whether they have im-
proved in their character or condition, by their
acquaintance with civilized people. In their sav-
age state, they were contented with the mere
necessaries of life, which they could procure, with
considerable ease ; but now they have many
artificial wants, created by the luxuries which we

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

:h5

have introduced among them ; and as they find it
difficult to obtain these luxuries, they have be-
come, to a degree, discontented with their condi-
tion, and practise fraud in their dealings. A half
civihzed Indian is more savage, than one in his orig-
inal state. The latter has some sense of honour,
while the former has none. I have always expe-
rienced the greatest hospitality and kindness
among those Indians, who have had the least in-
tercourse with white people. They readily dis-
cover and adopt our evil practices ; but they are
not as quick to discern, and as ready to follow
the few good examples, which we set before
them.

The Indians in general, are subject to few dis-
eases. The venereal complaint is common to all
the tribes of the north ; many persons among them,
die. of a consumption ; fevers, also, frequently at-
tack them ; and they are likewise troubled with
pains in their heads, breasts and joints. Many of
them, and especially the women, are subject to
fits. For a relief, in nearly all of their diseases,
they resort to their grand remedy, sweating.

There is no material difference in the size,
features and complexion of the different tribes,
with whom I have been acquainted. The Sau-
teux, Crees and Assiniboins, together with the
other Indians who inhabii the prairies, arc, how-

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•

I;-.

316

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

^«

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■ i'll'-'

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ever, the fairest and most cleanly. The Sau-
teux women differ from all others, by turning
their toes very much inwards, in walking. The
Assiniboins, of both sexes, are the best made, and
walk the most erect, of any tribe that I have
ever seen. Fools and disfigured persons, are sel-
dom to be met with among the Indians ; the rea-
son of which, I believe to be, that their mothers
put them to death as soon as they discover their
unhnppy condition.

All Indian children, when young, are laced in
a kind of bag. This bag is made of a piece of
leather, about two feet square, by drawing a string,
inserted in the lower end, and lacing the two
sides together. Some moss is placed in the bot-
tom of this bag ; the child is then laid into it, and moss
is inserted between its legs. The bag is then laced
the fore side of the child as high as its neck* This
bag is laid upon a board, to which it is fastened by
means of a strip of leather, passing several times
round both the board and the bag. At the top of
this board, a bow passes round from one side to the
other, perpendicular to its surface, on which the In-
dians fasten small bells, which they obtain from us,
or the claws of animals, by way of ornament, and
which rattle, when the child is carried by its
mother, suspended from her shoulders, by
means of a cord or belt fastened to the boardr

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

317

From two points in this bow, equally distant
from the board, two strips of leather, worked
with poFCupine quills, are suspended, at the end-
of which, tassels, composed of moose hair, are fix-
ed. This bag is commonly ornamented, in differ-
ent parts, with porcupine quills. The wom'en who
are particular in keeping their children clean,
shift the moss which is putint^ these bags, several
times in a day ; but others do it not more than
twice. They often fix conductors so that their
male children never wet the moss. The Carrier
women will nurse their children, when thus sus-
pended at their backs, either by throwing their
breasts over their shoulders, or under their arms.
Their breasts are larger and longer than those of
the other tribes ; but I am unable to assign any
cause for this peculiarity.

The dress of the Indians is simple and con-
venient. They wear tight leggins, each of which
is composed of a single piece of leather or cloth,
sewed up with a single seam, about an inch from
the edge, which projects upon the outside. These
garments reach from the ancle nearly to the hip.
They have a strip of cloth or leather, called assi-
an, about a foot wide, and five feet long, which
passes between the legs, and over a thong tied
round the waist, so that the ends hang down, be-
hind and before. The body is covered with a

I', V

■'I

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318

ACCOUJN'T 01' THE IKDIANS.

■ji '

t;».:Y^'?

shirt, reaching down to the thighs, which is belted
with a broad piece of parchment, fastened togeth-
er behind. They wear a cap upon the head, com-
posed of a single piece of fur sewed up, or of the
skin of a small animal of a suitable size, which is
cut off at both ends, and sewed up at the top ; and
at SOL times it is only cut of at the end towards
the head, while the tail is left at the top, to hang
down behind, by way of ornament. They have,
also, at the proper season, the tail of a buffaloe,
fi stened to one of their wrists, which they use in
keeping off flies. A sort of robe or blanket is oc-
casionally worn over the rest of their dress.
They also wear shoes and mittens. The articles
of their clothing by day, constitute their covering
when they lie down at night. The materials of
which their clothing is composed vary with the
season, consisting of dressed moose skins, beaver
prepared with the fur, or European woollens.
The leather, they freqoently paint or work with
porcupine quills, with no small degree of taste.
The skirts of their shirts, and the seams of their
leggins, are often ornamented with frini^e and
tassels, composed of the hair of the moose, which
is naturally white, but which they die yellow and
red* Their shoes and mittens have, likewise, an
appropriate decoration. At a feast or dance, they
wear the feathers of the swan, eagle and other

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

319

birds ; and they occasionally wind a string of the
teeth, horns and claws of different animals, around
their head or neck. They all rub greese upon
their hair, which gives it a smooth and glossy
appearance.

It belongs to the women to make up the arti-
cles of clothing. In sewing leather, instead oi
thread, they make use of the sinews of animals.
When this substance is some moistened, they se|>
arate a fibre, and by running their finger along
between it and the main sinew, they part it to a
sufficient length. The sinews of the cariboo may
be made as fine and even, as fine thread. These
fibres, when thus separated, they twist at one
end between their fingers, which gives them a
sharp stiff point, when they are dry. Tliey
use awls, which they obtain from us, or an instru-
ment of bone which they construct themselves,
in sewing. The men paint their faces and orna-
ment their persons, with no less care than the wo-
men; and the married women, while they neglect
not their own persons, are still more attentive to
the appearance of their husbands. The young-
women often make some ornamental articles,
particularly garters, neatly worked with porcu-
pine quills and present them to their favourites ;
and the standing of a young male Carrier among

320

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

the young females may often be determined by
the number of garters which he wears.

The femile dress is made of the same materi-
als as that of the men, but differently constructed
and arranged. Their shoes are without ornament ;
their leggins are gartered beneath the knee ; the
shirt or coat, which is so long as to reach the mid-
dle of the leg, is tied at the neck, is fringed around
the bottom, and fancifully painted, as high as the
knee. Being very loose, it is girded around the
waist with a stiff belt, ornamented with tassels,
and fastened behind. The arms are covered as
low as the wrists with sleeves, which are not con-
nected with the body garment. These sleeves
are sewed up, as far as the bend of the arm, hav-
ing the seam the under side ; and extend to the
shoulders, becoming broader toward the upper end,
so that the corners hang down as low as the waist.
They are connected together, and kept on, by a
cord, extending from one to the other, across the
shoulders. The cap, when they have one, con-
sists of a piece of cloth, about two feet square,
doubled, and sewed up at one end, which forms an
enclosure for the head ; and it is tied under the
chin. The bottom of it falls down the back, like
a cape, and in the centre, is tied to the belt. This
cap is fancifully garnished with ribbon, beads or
porcupine quills. The upper garment, is a robe

* I

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

321

or garment, similar to that worn by the men.
Their hair is parted on the top of the head, and
tied behind ; or, at some times, it is fastened in
large knots over the ears, and covered with beads
of various colours. They prefer European
clothes, when they can obtain them, to the skins,
furnished by their own country. For ornaments
they use bracelets, composed of brass, bone or
horn ; and rings, and similar trinkets. Some of
the women tattoo a line, which is sometimes dou-
ble, from the middle of the under lip, to the cen-
ter of the chin ; and two other lines, extending
from the corners of the mouth, somewhat diverg-
ing from the other line, down the sides of the
chin.

The greater part of the Indians, who make
use of European cloths for their dress, frequently
cleanse them, by washing them in cold water,
without soap. They do not understand the art
of making soap ; and if they did, the process is so
laborious, that they would readily forego the use
of this article, which they consider of very little
value. When their clothing consists of leather,
they occasionally cleanse it, by rubbing it over
with a ball of white earth. This earth, which is
the same which we use for white washing, they
moisten, and mould into balls, and thus preserve it
for use.

»,: ]\

:''ii

322

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

I--';- 11 ;r
•.f:i f!"

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Mil.

The Indians who subsist principally on fish,
and who kill but few large animals, cover their
habitations with some kind of bark, or with mats
made of rushes. But those who subsist on the
buffaloe, moose and red deer, dress their skins,
and cover their tents with them, as described in
my Journal. When they are in their tents they
sit or lie down on buffaloe or bear skins, which
constitute, also, their beds ; and when in bed,
they cover themselves with a buffaloe skin, dress-
ed with the hair on, or with a blanket. But
many of the Carriers, have nothing to lie on, ex-
cepting the branches of the spruce fir tree, with
little or nothing with which to cover themselves ;
and their huts constitute but a poor shelter. To
keep themselves from freezing, in cold winter
nights, therefore, they are under the necessity of
keeping up a constant fire, to which they are com-
pelled to turn their sides, alternately ; and they
are, at such times, able to procure but little sleep.
Indeed, almost any other people, in the same con-
dition, would freeze to death. But as they have
always been accustomed to such a mode of
living, they seem not at all aware of the misery
of their condition.

The Sauteux, Muscagoes, many of the Chipe-
wyans and some of the Crees, in short all the In-
dians who live about large lakes, subsist principal-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

323

\y on fish, which they take with hooks and hnes,
or in nets. Their hooks they frequently obtain
from us ; and when this is impracticable, they make
them, by inserting a piece of bone obliquely into
a piece of wood, and reducing the upper
end of the bone to a point. Their lines
are either single thongs of leather, tied to-
gether, or they are braided of the bark of the
willow. The Assiniboins, Rapid Indians, Black
feet Indians and those Crees who remain in the
strong thick woods, or on the large plains, live
upon the flesh of the buffaloe, moose, red deer,
antelope, bear, &c. which they either boil or
roast. Those of them who can obtain brass or
copper or tin kettles from us, use them for boil-
ing their food ; and hang them over the fire.
Those who cannot obtain such kettles, use those
which are made of bark. Although water might
be made to boil in these bark kettles over the
fire, yet they would not be durable ; and there-
fore, this operation is more commonly performed,
by throwing into them, heated stones. Those
Indians, however, who have only bark kettles,
generally roast their meat. This they do, by
fixing one end of a stick, that is sharpened at both
ends, into the ground, at a little distance from the
fire, with its top, on which the meat is fixed, m-
clining towards the firo. On this stick, the meat

324

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

jH'^

'f/ rm

is occasionally turned, when one part beconiea
sufficiently roasted.

The Indians, in general, like to have their food,
whether boiled or roasted, thoroughly done ; but
those ho inhabit the plains, frequently make
their meals without the aid of fire, of particular
parts of the entrails of the bulFaloe, which I have,
also, eaten raw, and have found to be very palata-
ble. When there is no water to be found, they
at times kill a buffaloe, and drink his blood, or
the water which they find in his paunch. The
paunch of a male buffaloe, when well cooked, is
very delicious food. The Natives scarcely ever
wash it ; but boil it with much of its dung, ad-
hering to it ; and even then, the broth has an
excellent taste, to those who can forget, or from
habit pay no regard to the filth, which settles, to
the thickness of two fingers, at the bottom of the
kettle. Many consider a broth, made by means
of the dung of the cariboo and the hare to be a
dainty dish.

The Chipewyans can never patiently see a
fish without gouging out its eyes, and eating
them in a raw state ; and they say, that they
are delicious. Thev, also, often make their meals
upon raw fish or meat, that is frozen ; and ap-
pear to relish it fully as well, as when cooked*^ —
The Carriers, when they take fish that have

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

325

roes in them, squeeze them, with tlicir thdinb
and finger, through their natural outlet, into
into their mouths, and swallow them down, with
avidity. They also bury in the earth ' s^.
boxes, filled with the roes of salmon, . :8
they are suffered to remain, until they are a lit-
tle putrified, when they take them out, and eat
them, either cooked or raw ; and they appear
to relish them well, though they fill the air with
a terrible stench, for a considerable distance
round. A person who eats this food, and rubs
salmon oil on his hands, can be smelt in warm
weather, to the distance of nearly a quarter ofia
mile.

The natives in a part of the country called
JYipigon, as well as in some other parts of the
country, are frequently obliged, by necessity, to
subsist on a kind of moss, which they find adher-
ing to the rocks, and which they denominate As-
se-ne Wa-quon-uck, that is, eggs of the rock.
This moss when boiled with pimican, &;c. dissolves
into a glutinous substance, and is very palatable ;
but when cooked in water only, it is far other-
wise, as it then has an unpleasant, bitter taste.
There is some nourishment in it ; and it has sav-
ed the life of many of the Indians, as well as of
s^me of our voyagers.

On the Columbia River, there is a people

326

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

■'it J|

who subsist, during the greater part of the snni-
mer, on nothing burroots, and a kind of bread,
if it may be so called, made of the mossy stuflf,
which grows on the spruce fir tree, and which
resembles the cobwebs, spun by spiders. This
substance contains, a little nourishment. They
gather it from the tre'^s, and lay it in a heap, on
which they sprinkle a little water, and then leave
it, for some time, to ferment. After that, they
roll it up into balls, as large as a man's head, and
bake them in ovens, well heated, which are con-
structed in the earth. After having been baked
tjbout an hour, they are taken out for use. This
substance is not very palatable ; and it contains
but little nourishment. It will, however, barely
support life, for a considerable time.

The Indians " .quently eat the flesh of the
dog ; and our Canadian voyagers are as fond of it,
as of any other meat. I have frequently eaten of
them myself; and have found them as palatable
as a young pig, and much of the same flavour.
These dogs are small ; and in shape, very much
resemble the wolf. The large dogs are of a dif-
ferent breed, and their flesh always has a rank
taste ; but this is never the case with the small
kind.

Perhaps I cannot more properly, than in this
connexion, state, that all the Indians, when they

\i . '■■I'-'"*'

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

327

look in each others heads, and find Hce, of which
they have a plenty, both there and on their bod-
ies, crush them between their teeth, and frequent-
ly swallow them. The reason which they give
for this nauseous custom is, that, as the lice have
first bitten them, they are only retaliating the in-
jury upon them.

As the Indians use no salt in the preservation
of their meat, the lean part is cut into thin slices,
and hung up in their tents, and dried in the smoke,
and the fat is melted down ; and in this situation,
it will keep for years. They make marrow fat,
by cutting the joints of the bones, which they
boil for a considerable time, and then skim off the
top, which is excellent to eat with their dried
meat. They find a root in the plains, that is near-
ly a foot long, and two or three inches in circum-
ference, which is shaped like a carrot, and tastes
like a turnip, which they pound fine, and then dry
it in the sun. This, when boiled in fat broth, is
one oi their most dainty dishes, at their feasts.
The ordinary drink of the Indians is the broth of
flesh or fish, or only water.

The Indians on the east side of the Rocky
Mountain, pound choke cherries fine, and dry
them in the sun, which are palatable, either eaten
alone, or boiled in broth. They have also a small
berry, about the size of a common currant, shaped

■'t *

t^'-*

328

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

like an egg, which I have called, in my Journal,
shad berries, as I have heard them so denomina-
ted in New England, which they dry in the sun.
and either boil them in broth, or mix them with
pounded meat and fat, in making pimican. But
the Carriers prepare these berries in a different
manner, in order to preserve them. They make
a kind of tub, which will contain twenty or thir-
ty gallons, of the bark of the spruce fir tree.
Into the bottom of this tub they put about a peck
of these berries, and upon the top of them stones,
that are nearly red hot ; they then put another
layer of berries, and upon these, a layer of stones,
and so on until the tub is full. They then cov-
er it up, and let it remain in that situation for
about five or six hours, when they will have be-
come perfectly cooked. They arc then taken
out, and crushed between the hands, and sprr.ad
on splinters of wood, tied together for the pur-
pose, over a slow fire ; and, while they are drying,
the juice which ran out while they w.ti cooking
in the tub, is rubbed over them. After two or
three days drying, they will be in a condition to
be kept for several years. They are very pala-
table, especially when a few whortleberries are
mixed with them. The above described method
of cooking berries, is far better than doing them

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

329

in brass or copper kettles, as I have proved by
repeated experiment.

The Carriers cut off the heads of salmon, and
throw them into the lake, where they permit
them to remain a month, or at least until they
become putrified. They then take them out, and
put them into a trough, made of bark, filled
with water, into "this trough they put a suffi-
ciency of heated stones, to make the water boil
for a time, which will cause the oil to come out
of the heads of the salmon, and rise to the top
of the water. This they skim off, and put into
bottles made of salmon skins ; and they eat it
with their berries. Its smell however is very
disagreeable ; and no people would think of eat-
ing it excepting the Carriers.

The Indians are not regular in their meals ;
and they will eat a little, half a dozen times in a
day, if they have food at hand. But they are
not great eaters ; and they often subsist for a
great length of time, upon a very little 1o4.d.
When they choose, however, and in a particular
manner, sometimes at feasts, they will gorge down
an incredible quantity. They do not drink large-
ly, excepting the Carriers, who live upon dry fish.
They will sometimes swallow, at one draught,
three pints, or two quarts. When they can pro-
cure food that is palatable, they will eat in the
42

Mfl

■'. ''-"^

330

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

same proportion. No favour which can be be-
stowed upon them is so gratefully received, as
the means of making a good meal.

From the month of June, until the latter end
of September, all animals have but little fur ; and
therefore, at this season, the Indians do not hunt
them much. The greate - part of the Indians, on
the east side of the Rocky Mountain, now take
the beaver in steel traps, which we sell them ;
frequently they shoot them, with fire arms ; and
sometimes they make holes through their lodges
or huts, and then spear them. Otters ihey take
in the same manner as beavers. The lynx or
cat, they take in snares. Foxes, fishers, martins,
minks, &;c. they take in a spring trap. — The large
animals are hunted ^.hiefly for their flesh ;
and are therefore killed, principally when they
are the fattest, which most of them are in the
fall, and some of them in the winter. Buffaloes,
moose, red deers, bears, &,c. are generally killed
with fire arms. The Indians, however, in the
plains, have other methods of killing the buffa-
loe. .

Sometimes the young men mount their hors-
es, and pursue them and bring them down with
their bows and arrows, which they find more
convenient for this purpose than fire arms, as
they can more easily take an arrow from the

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

331

quiver, than load a musket, in such a situa-
tion. The following, is another method ot' tak-
ing the bufFaloe. The Natives look out for a
small grove of trees, surrounded by a plain. In
this grove they make a yard, by falling small trees,
and interweaving them with brush; and they
leave an opening into it about twenty feet broad.
They select, for this purpose, a rising piece of
ground, that the yard may not be seen at a dis-
tance. From each side of this opening, they fix
two ranges of stakes, at about an angle of ninety
degrees from each other, extending about two
miles into the plains. These stakes rise about four
feet above the ground, and are about forty (eet
apart. On the top of each stake, they put buf-
faloe dung, or tie a wisp of hay. After this pre-
paration, when a herd of buffaloes is seen at no
great distance off, thirty or forty or more young
men mount their racers, which are well trained
to this business, and surround them ; and little
difficulty is found in bringing them, within the
range of the stakes. Indians are stationed by
the side of some of these stakes, to keep them
in motion, so that the buffaloes suppose tiiem
all to be human beings. The horsemen press for-
ward by the sides of the herd and behind them,
until, at length, with their tongues lolling from
their mouths, they are brought to the entrance of

,ii -r

'*■

•tS.!,!

332

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

\ '4

the yard ; and through it they rush without per-
ceiving their danger, until they are shut in, to the
number, oftentimes, of two or three hundred.
When they find themselves enclosed, the Indians
say, and I have frequently seen myself, that they
begin to walk around the outside of the yard, in
the direction of the apparent revolution of the
sun, from east to west. Before any of them are
killed, the Indians go into the tent of the chief to
smoke, which they denominate making the buffa-
loe smoke. Tliey then go out to the yard, and
kill the buffaloes with bows and arrows ; and there
are . Indians, who will send an arrow, entirely
through one buffaloe, and kill, at the same time, a
second. When the buffaloes are all killed and
cut up, the tongues of all of them a ^ taken to the
tent of the chief ; and with a part of them he
makes a feast, and the remainder he allows his
neighbours to keep. The meat and skins are
then distributed among the people of the whole
camp ; and whether equally or not, no one will
complain. Should any be displeased with their
share, they will decamp, and go and join another
party.

The Natives generally cut up the body of an
animal into eleven pieces, to prepare it for trans-
portation to their tents, or to our forts. These
pieces are the four limbs, the two sides of ribs,

f»

^^:m-

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

333

the two sinews on each side of the back bone, the
brisket, the croup, and the back bone. Besides
these, they save and use the tongue, heart, liver,
paunch, and some part of the entrails. The head,
they carry home, the meat which is on it they
eat ; and the brains they rub over the skin, in
dressing it. — After they have taken all the meat
off from the skin, they stretch it on a frame, and
suffer it to dry. They next scrape off all the
hair, and rub the brains of the animal over the
skin, and then smoke it ; after which they soak it
in water, for about a day. They then take it out
and wring it as dry as possible ; and a woman takes
hold of each end, and they hold it over a fire,
frequently pulling it and changing its sides, until it
is perfectly dry. After this it is smoked with
rotten wood, and it becomes fit for use. This
last part of the process, is to prevent it from
becoming hard after it has been wet.

The Sauteux, who remain about the Lake of
the Woods, now begin to plant Indian corn and
potatoes, which grow well. The Mandans, also,
along the Missouri River, cultivate the soil, and
produce Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, tobacco, &c.
As they do not understand curing their tobacco,
it i» of little use to them. The Sauteux, who
live back from Mackana, raise large quantities of
Indian corn, beans, &c. And also make much

334

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

" ' ) i 'i

sugar, from the maple tree, which they dispose of
to the North West Company, for cloth and other
articles. As soon as the animals become scarce,
that are hunted for their furs, the ISatives must
till the ground for subsistence, or live upon fish.
This state of things already exists, in many places;
and must, in all probability, be extended.

The Indians sometimes take the largest fish,
such as sturgeon, trout, and some white fish, with
spears. At other times, they take their fish in
drag-nets or scoop-nets. But the more general
way of taking them is the following. They have
nets, of from twenty to sixty fathoms, in length,
which contain from twelve to forty meshes, of
from two to seven inches in depth. Upon lines,
which are fixed upon each side of the net, for
the purpose of strengthening it, they fasten, oppo-
site to each other, a small stone and a wooden
buoy, once in about the distance of two fathoms.
The net is carefully thrown into the water, and
by means of the stones on the one side, and the
buoys on the other, it becomes extended, to its
full breadth. The ends of the net, which forms a
semicircle, are secured by stones ; and it is visited
every day, and taken out of the water ever second
day, to be cleaned and dried. This is a i^ery
easy operation, when the water is not frozen.
But the ice which, at some places, acquires the

ACCOUNT CP THE INDIANS.

335

vV,'

thickness of five (eet, renders the setting and tak-
ing out of the nets, a work of greater difficulty.
They then cut holes, at the distance of thirty feet
from each other, to the whole length of the net,
one of which, is larger than the rest, being gener-
ally about four feet square, and is called the basin.
Through these holes, by means of poles of a suit-
able length, the net is placed in and drawn out of
the water.

The Indians, throughout the whole country
that I have visited, have no other animals domes-
ticated, excepting the horse and the dog. Of the
latter, they have several different species. Some
of them are very large and strong, and are em-
ployed in carrying burdens ; while others, which
are small, assist their masters in the chace. — All
Indians are very fond of their hunting dogs. The
people on the west side of the RocLy Mountain,
appear to have the same affection for them, that
they have for their children ; and they will dis-
course with them, as if they were rational beings.
They frequently call them their sons or daughters ;
and when describing an Indian, they will speak of
him as father of a particular dog which belongs
to him. When these dogs die, it is not unusual
to see their masters or mistresses place them on
a pile of wood, and burn them in the same man-
ner as they do the dead bodies of their relations;

336

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

L t- - ■^' f : ■ i»^

i '

< 1

and they appeii. i<^ lament their deaths, by crying
and howling, fulK >is much as if they were their
kindred. Nothwithstanding this affection, how-
ever, when they have nothing else with which to
purchase articles which they want, they will sell
their dogs.

Those Indians, who live in a woody country,
make no use of horses, but employ their large dogs,
to assist In carrying their baggage from place to
place. The load is placed near their shoulders,
and some of these dogs, which are accustomed
to it, will carry sixty or seventy pounds weight,
the distance of twenty five or thirty miles in a
day.

The Assiniboins, Rap d Indians, Black feet

and Mandans, together w.th all the other Indians

who inhabit a plain coui/ry, always perform

their journles on horse back. Indeed they seldom

go even a short distance from their tents, in any

other manner. They have some excellent horses,

which will carry them a great distance in a day.

They sometimes go seventy miles, in twelve

hours ; but forty or forty five miles is a common

day's ride. They do not often use bridles, but

guide their horses with halters, made of ropes,

which are manufactured from the hair of the buf-

faloe, which are very strong and durable. On

the back of the horse, they put a dressed buffaloe

17
'A.

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

337

skin, on the top of which, they place a pad, from
which are suspended stirrups, made of wood, and
covered with the skin of the testicles of the buf-
faloe.

Some of these Indians have forty or fifty
horses ; and they attach a great value to those,
that are distinguished for their speed. Whenev-
er an Assiniboin sells a racer, he separates from
him, in a most affectionate manner. Immediately
before delivering him to the purchaser, he steps
up to the favourite animal, and whispers in his
ear, telling him not to be cast down or angry
with his master for disposing of him to another,
for, he adds, " you shall not remain long where
you are. I sold you to obtain certain articles,
that I stood in great need of ; but before many
nights have passed, I will come and steal you
away." And, unless great vigilance on the part
of the purchaser prevent, he generally fulfils his
promise ; for they are the greatest horse thieves,
perhaps upon the face of the earth. As there
never falls much snow on the large plains,
the horses have not much difficulty in find-
ing a sufficiency of grass, on which to subsist,
during the whole year ; and they are generally in
good order.

The Indians who reside about large lakes and
rivers, voyage about in the summer season, in ca-

1^.

wp'l

•ki

■«^

338

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

noes, made of the bark of the birch or spruce fir
tree ; and two persons in one of them, will easily
go fihy miles in a day. The paddles, with which
the canoe is moved, are about five feet long,
half of wliich length, is a blade, four inches wide.

The Indians are good walkers ; and will at
sometimes, travel forty miles in a day, with a pret-
ty heavy load upon their backs.

In the winter season, the Indians use snow
shoes ; and it would be impossible to travel with-
out them. They are constructed in several differ-
ent shapes ; but the following is the most common
form. They take a piece of wood, and with a
crooked knife, work it down, until it is about two
inches wide, and an inch thick. These sticks are
fastened together at one end, which constitutes
the hind part ; they are then bent so as to be
about a foot asunder in the middle, and to come
nearly together forward. The space between
these sticks, they fill up with a lace work of thongs
of deer skin. Other snow shces come quite to a
point before, where they are turned up ; the side
pieces arc from eighteen to twenty four inches
apart, and, in the fall of the year, when the snow
is light, they are seven feet in length. The inner
side piece is nearly straight, and the outside is
arching, and the extremities behind, come togeth-
er in a point. The space between them, is work-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

339

ed as above mentioned. It is a little surprising
that the Indians, Avho are accustomed to them,
will walk farther in a day on good snow shoes,
than they could do on bare ground. But it is
very fatiguing for those to walk on them, who arc
not accustomed to do it. The Indians are train-
ed to this exercise from the age of four years.
Even at that early age, they will go five or six
miles in a day upon them, through the whole win-
ter, as often as the Indians decamp, which, at some-
times, is every day, and at other times, once in
eight or ten days. Indians, who live upon the
chace, in a country where animals are scarce,
cannot remain long in a place; and those v/ho
hunt the beaver and some other animals, must
continually shift their residence.

. Few of the Indians live in a state of celibacy.
They generally marry when they are between
eighteen and twenty five years of age. Polygamy
is allowed among all the tribes ; but only a few
persons among them, have more than one wife,
each. I knew, however, a chief, among the
Beaver Indians, who had eleven wives, and more
than forty children.

Their courtship and marriage are conducted
in the following manner. A young man who is
desirous of taking a wife, looks around among the
young women of his acquaintance, to find one that

1 '^':

340

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

i I

i ' , ; I

pleases his fancy. Having thus singled out one,
to her he makes Jinown his intentions ; and if his
addresses are favourably received, he visits her, in
the night season, by crawling softly into the tent
where she lodges, and where she is expecting him,
after the other inhabitants of the lodge are asleep.
Here they pass the night, by conversing in a
whisper, lest they should be heard by the rest of
the family, who all occupy the same apartment.
As the morning light approaches, he withdraws
in the same silent manner, in which he came.
These noctural visits are kept up for several
months ; or, until the young couple think that they
should be happy, in passing their days together.
The girl then proposes the subject to her moth-
er, and she converses with the father in regard
to the intended match. If he give his consent,
and the mother agree with him in opinion, she
will direct her daughter to invite her suitor to
come and remain with them. It is now only,
that thoy cohabit ; and whatever the young man
kills, he brings home and presents it to the father
of his wife. In this way he lives, during a year
or more, without having any property that he
can call his own. After his wife has a child, she
calls her husband by no other name but the father
of her son or daughter. And now he is at liber-
ty to leav5^ the tent of his wife's father, if h**

V (III 1 ■ . t:

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

341

t: :* <t>

pleases. All the Indians on the east side of the
rocky mountain, think it very indecent for a
father or mother in law, to speak to, or look in
the face of a son or daughter in law ; and they
never do either unless they are very much in-
toxicated. The reason which they give for this
custom, when questioned on the subject is, the
peculiar intercourse which this person has had
with their child.

When two young persons of different sexes,
have an affection for each other, and wish to be
connected in marriage, to which the parents of
the girl will not consent, they frequently leave
the tents of their parents, and go and join some
distant band of Indians. They are, however, of-
ten pursued, by the parents of the young woman ;
and should he overtake them, he will bring his
daughter back, and keep a strict watch over her
conduct, to prevent all intercourse between her
and her suitor. All neighbouring tribes frequently
intermarrv.

Chastity in young women, is considered as a
virtue, by the Indians, generally, on the east side
of the Rocky Mountain ; and many mothers,
among some tribes are so particular, that they
never allow their daughters, who have arrived at
a certain age, to go from home alone, but always
send some person with them, as a protector.

\ r,..i''

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342

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

Chastity in married persons is universally regard-
ed as a virtue ; and the want of it in a woman, is
frequently the cause of her being rejected by her
husband. A separation, also, at some times, takes
place, on account of the slothfulness of the wo-
man. When such an event does occur, all the
children, if small, remain with their mother, but
should they have sons, advanced beyond the pe-
riod of childhood, they remain with their father.
Their separations, however, are seldom lasting ;
and after a few days absence, the parties general-
ly have an inclination to return to each other.
These separations commonly take place in obedi-
ence to the will of the husband, only because, pos-
sessing greater physical strength, he has more
power to drive his wife from him, or to retain her
with him, against her choice, than she has to treat
him in a similar manner.

The Indian women sit down in a decent at-
titude, placing their knees close to each other.
They are very particular^ also, in regard to their
behaviour, during their periodic?' illness. They
then leave the tents where the.i* families reside,
and go and put up temporary ones, at a little
distance from them, where they remain during
the continuance of their illness. While they are
there, the men will mt deign to hold any con-
versation with them ; nor will they suffer them

cu'cums

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

343

■f

to make use of any article, which they expect
to want the use of afterwards. This custom
prevails among all the tribes, with whom I have
been acquainted. The first tim€ that the young
women, among the Sauteux, Crees and some
other tribes, experience this illness, they run in-
to the woods, and remain there for several days.
They then return to their tents, and immediately
proceed to cut and pile up a cord of wood, as
high as their heads ; after which all the women
of the camp come and scramble for it, and carry
it away, saying, that the person who cut the
wood, is now a woman like themselves, and that
they hope she will prove to be industrious.

The men among the Indians, are very sub-
ject to be jealous of their wives. In their fits of
jealousy, they often cut off all the hair from the
heads of their wives, and, not unfrequently, cut off
their noses, also ; and should they ml in the mo-
ment of passion have a knife at hand, they will snap
it off atone bite, with their teeth. But such a
circumstance does not ordinarily produce a sep-
aration between them. The man is satisfi-
ed in thus revenging a supposed injury ; and
having destroyed the beauty of his wife, he
concludes that he has secured her against all fu-
ture solicitations to offend.

*■ «k ^*s-

^ *

344

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

, r ^ ) ,

i'i

All the Indians consider women as far inferi-
our in every respect, to men ; and, an.ong
many tribes, they treat their wives much, as they
do their dogs. The men chastise their wives,
frequently, with an axe, or with a large club ; and
in the presence of their husbands, the women
dare not look a person in the face. When they
decamp, the women transport the baggage ; and
when they stop, while the men are quietly smok-
ing their pipes, the women are required to pitch
the tents, and to set the encampment in order.
Among the Sauteux, Crees, Muscagoes and As-
siniboins, however, the women are treated with
more gentleness and respect. The husband shares
the labour with his wife ; and the women govern
every thing in their tents, so that the husband pre-
sumes not to dispose of the most trifling article,
without the consent of his v/ife. Among them
the husbandr* kills animals and generally brings
the meat to his tent, where his wife prepares it
for drying, and melts down the fat. She, also
generally does the cooking ; not, however, with-
out the occasional assistance of her husband.
He assists her, likewise, in taking care of the
children^ and, if his wife is too much loaded,
in marching from one place of encampment to
another, he will take one of the small children
in addition to the load already on his own back.

9 '

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

345

But the Indians, who inhabit the plains, never car-
ry any thing on their backs, as they are well sup-
plied with horses.

The following ceremonies attend the birth of
children. When the time of a woman approach-
es, she erects a small hut, at a little distance from
the tent in which she usually lives; and at the
time of labour, she sends ^ an invitation to several
neighbouring women, to come to her assistance.
As soon as the child is born, it is washed in wa-
ter, that had been previously prepared, by boiling
in it a sweet scented root. The mother then or-
ders a feast to be prepared. As soon as it is
ready, the most aged woman of the company,
takes a little out of the dish, and throws it into the
fire, and then helps the whole company ; not pas-
sing by the mother of the child, who. is generally
able to join them in the repast. The old lady of
ceremonies, now offers up a short prayer to the
Creator, or the Master of life, as they denominate
him, in behalf of the new born babe, the substance
of which is, that its life may be spared, and that
it may grow ; and if a son, become a handsome

young lad.

A woman after child birth, remains in the sep-
arate dwelling which she had erected, for the
space of about thirty days, during which time, no
man would, on any account, enter the place of

.1 ." f

\ t

1^ -

346

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

'«

ill

her residence. At the close of this period, she
returns to her tent, and the father of the child
prepares a feast to which all their neighbours are
invited, the object of which as they say, is, to
welconoe the arrival of the little stranger, from a
far country. * ' i ; ^

Should a male child live, the parents dry the
meat of the lirst animal J hat he kills, and careful-
ly keep it, until they can collect a sufficiency of
something to make a feast. They then invite
their friends, of both sexes, to come and partake
of the fruits of the hunt of their son ; for, they so
call it, because the animal which he killed, they
mix with what his parents have procured. Be-
fore any taste of tlie feast, one of the most re-
spectable men present, takes a little out of the
dish, and throws it into the fire ; and then be-
seeches the Great Spirit, to be kind to the lad.
and to allow him to grow up, and to become a
skilt'ul hunter ; and to cause that when he goes to
war, he may not behave like an old woman, but
may return with the scalps of hie enemies. ♦ •
• Indian women appear to suffer less pain in
child birth, than women in civilized countries.
They rarely ever take any medicine, at the time
of delivery, though they do, at times, drink water,
in which the rattle of a rattle-snake has been
boiled. In the season of labour, they place their

-#■••

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

347

knees upon the floor or ground, and lean forward
over something, raised about two feet high. It is
seldom more than a quarter or a half an hour,
before the child is born; and, in a few days the
mother is as active and vigorous as ever. The
Indian women rarely ever die, at this critical pe-
riod.

Among the natives, those persons who are in
any way deformed, or have any blemish about
them, receive their name from this circumstance ;
whiie the others are named, ^.fter some beast or
bird. No Indian will inform another, even if
requested, what his own name is ; though he
will, if asked, give the name of other Indians.
Of the reason of this reserve I am ignorant.

It is not often that an Indian chastises his
children ; and, indeed, it is not necessary, for they
appear, in general, to have much affection and
respect for their parents, and are therefore ready
to obey them. A father never interferes in the
bringing up of his daughter; but leaves her
wholly to the care of her mother. When a
son becomes of a suitable age, his father takes
him with him in hunting, and learns him the dif-
ferent modes of taking animals. A son until he
is married, considers himself as under his father's
controul ; and even after that, he will generally
listen to any advice, which his father may give

(i ■:

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■i^

■*.'»

' ^Sstk

348

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

flrlil

to him. The aged are conimonly treated with
much respect, which they consider themselves
as entitled to claim. Slibuld a young man behave
disrespectfully toward an old man, the aged will
refer him to his hoary head, and demand of him,
if he be not ashamed to insult his grey hairs.
In short, the aged of both sexes are generally
ti ted with kindness; and are not suffered to
Vfanr : ny thing which they need, and which it is
in the power of their relations to procure for
them.

The superior influence of tho white people,
where they have, for a considerable time, resided
among the Indians, has very much diminished
their respect for their own chiefs; though there
are some among them, who bear this title. The
feasts are commonly made by the chiefs ; and they,
also, generally make the harangues, in behalf of
their bands, when they visit our forts. Their war
chiefs have considerable influence over the young
men, who accompany them, in their war parties.

Murder and theft are considered as crimes;
and the former is always punished with death, un-
less the murderer makes his escape, which is gen-
erally the case Theft, also, is frequently pun-
ished in a similar manner. Sometimes, the party
offended will be appeased, by the restoration of
the stolen property, or of an equivalent.

uwW^

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

349

Generosity is among the Indian virtues. They
are more ready, in proportion to their means, to
assist a neighbour who may be in want, than the
inhabitants, generally, of civilized countries. An
Indian rarely kills an animal, without sending a
part of it to a neighbour, if he has one near
him.

The private property of the Indians, con-
sists of horses, dogs, tents, guns and the uten-,
fills that belong to their tents. Some of these
things, a little before their death, t ley bequeath
to some of their friends ; but all of their clothing,
guns, powder horn'j, &c. are brried with them.
Indeed, the Indians suffer nothing to remain in or
about the tent of a person who has died, which
he was accustomed to make use of while he was
alive. They consider it a kind of sacrilege to
mention the name of a person after he is dead ;
and they never speak of him as dead, but as mis-
erable, because, they say, he has taken a long
journey alone, to the country, to which bis deceas-
ed relations had gone before him.

Whenever any one is very sick, the whole of
his family, and frequently all of his relations, will
give some part of their clothing in sacrifice to the
devil or evil spirit, who, they suppose, is the
cause of his illness. They, however, pray to the
Good Spirit, or Master of life, for his recovery, as

r'' :i

* ':i

iff '"

^iifcaw**^-'"-/

'I'i

3r)0

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

!* .

they believe that he has the power, if he choose
to exercise it, of restoring him to health, notwith-
standing the design which the evil spirit has, of
taking his hfe from him. ^ >H.^. : «-t

All the Indians on the east side of the Rocky
Mountain, bury their dead. After a person is
dead, some of his deceased relatives cut off a
lock of his hair, which they carefully lay up ; and
they sometimes preserve such relicks, for a great
number of years. Preparatory to its interment,
they dress the corpse in as gay a manner as possi-
ble ; and then wrap a blanket, over the whole.
But they never sew or pin this blanket together,
lest he should be unable to shake it off with
ease, when he arrives in the other world. If
it were fastened, they say, he might lie in it
for several days, after his arrival in the land of
his departed relations, before any one would meet
with, and release him. The bottom and sides of
the grave, which is two or three feet deep, are
lined with the branches of trees. The corpse is
then deposited in it ; and along with it, a pipe and
tobacco, a dish or small kettle, an awl and sinews
to repair his shoes, and a sufficiency of provisions,
to support him for a few days, until he shall ar-
rive in the land of plenty. They then cover the
body with branches, and fill up the grave with
earth ; and on the top of it, they place bark, to

'i«

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

351

protect it from the rain or snow. They then
clear off the bushes and grass, for eight or ten
feet around the grave ; and every spring, the
ground is thus renewedly cleared, for several years
after. About the grave, they set up a few stakes
on which they hang strips of cloth, tobacco, &;c.
While the ceremonies of interment are perform-
ing, the relatives and friends of the deceased, make
the most dismal moans and cries ; and, to convince
others of their grief, and, as they say, to ease their
wounded hearts, some of them cut the hair of
their heads short, or make incisions in their faces
and arms, while others, to whom the deceased
was more dear, will seize an arrow, in an agony of
grief, and run it through the fleshy part of their
thighs. • ' i •-■ i . ; r i.

The Indians generally appear to be more af-
flicted with the loss of an infant, helpless child,
than of a person that has arrived to mature age ;
for the latter, they say, can provide for himself,
in the country whither he has gone," while the
former, is too young to depend upon himself.

The men appear to be ashamed to manifest
their grief at the loss of any one, however dear
he might have been to them; but the women
give full vent to the feelings of nature. The fond
mother, when she looses a young child, will pull
out all the hair of her head ; cut her face, arms,

X "^^N

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.■^■.

II f

1 ■

35^

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

and legs, in a shocking manner ; burn all her
clothes, excepting a iew rags, which she has upon
her; and, to •'ender herself as wretched, as she
expresses it, as her child, when the weather is
storm), she will stand, for hours at a time, in the
open air, and pitifully moan, in such language as
this. " How wretched are you, my child, to be
torn from your friends while so young and help-
less; and to be sent alone, into a strange country !
Who will now give you bread when you are hun-
gry, and water, when you are thirsty, and make a
covering for you to lie under when it rains or
snows ! O that I could once more press you, my
dear child, to my troubled breast ! Of what use
to me are all my medicines, since they could not
save your life, and keep you a little longer with
us !" Then, in a rage of passion and of grief, she
will rush into h^ tent, and seize her medicine
bag, and throw it into the fire. ,,-

All the Indian tribes are frequently at war
with each other ; and at some times, two tribes
will league together, against one tribe or more.
Those who reside in a woody country, do not as
frequently wage war against their neighbours, as
those who live in the large plains. The latter,
generally engage in war, either ofTensiye or defen-
sive, at the opening of every spring. The sum-
mer is the only season of military operations!.

.:fe.

p- n,

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

353

amonj^ the Indians ; though they Irequentlj em-
ploy much time in the winter, in providing bows,
irrows, guns nnd ammunition, with reference to
a campaign, the ensuing season. Preparatory to
hostihtics, the chiefs, toward the close of win-
ter, send young men with presents of tobacco,
to the whole tribe, who are scattered over
their territory, in'iting them to meet, at a spe-
cified place, early in the spring, in general
council. At this meeting, chiefs are appointed to
conduct the war. The war pipe is then lighted
up, and those who are willing to become soldiers
in the campaign, smoke the pipe. None are com-
pelled to enlist ; but, to excite in the young men
a martial spirit, and to stimulate them to become
his followers, the war chief makes a long ha-
rangue, in which he relates the injuries, that they
have received from their enemies. By a strong
appeal to their savage feelings, he labours to con-
vince them, that it will be sweet and manly, to re-
venge these insults; and to return trom the war,
with the scalps of their enemies, and with their
wives, and children, and horses, kc. 4

A feast is then made, of which all partake,
after which, the young men dance, and sing war
songs. After these ceremonies are ended, the
chief or chiefs set out on the war expedition, with
as many as choose to follow them ; and as they

' i\

v f\

mmv*''-

354

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

leave the camp, the war party join in a war song.
After their departure, the old men and women
and children pursue their usual occupations, to ob-
tain a subsistence. Frequently, after the war
party has been gone several days, some of the
young men return, to join their relations or lovers.
All the punishment to which they subject them-
selves is, to be called old women, by which is
meant, cowards; a charge which touches an In-
dian to the quick.

War parties frequently travel four or five
hurwlred mile.?, before they reach the territory of
their enemies. On their way, they subsist upon
animals which they kill, and fish which they take,
from the lakes and rivers. These supplies are
often very inadequate, ahd they suffer greatly by
hunger.

Having arrived near tha place whore they ex-
pect to find their enemies, (he chiefs send out
scouting parties, in order to ascertain their posi-
tion, numbers and any other circumstances which
it may be necessary for them to knov/, in order to
form a plan for taking ithem by surprise.. The
Indians nevei' attack their enemies in the open
day ; but fall upon them when asleep, near tlie
approach of the light of the morning.

11 they succeed in conquering their enemies,
as is jijenerally the case, since those who ituake the

ifi»j

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

355

aftack have greatly the advantage, thy make ter-
rible havo". among the men ; but they labour to
take as many of their women and children alive,
as the) possihly can, in order to carry them home
as slaves. They never torture these captives;
but keep them to perform the menial service
about their tents, or dispose of them to others.
Sometimes they are adopted into the families «^'
their enemies, in the place of children that they
have lost ; and then they are treated with all the
tenderness and affection, which would be exercis-
ed toward a near relation.

On their return from the expedition, the war
party approach the tents of their band, with their
faces blackened, and singing the war song. Their
relations immediately moke a feast, at which the
warriours dance, with the scalps of their enemies
which they hove taken, in their hands ; and re-
count the history of the expedition, particularly
relating the manner in which they fell upon their
enemies, the number of men that they killed, and
of slaves, horses, &c. which they have taken.
They then distribute a part of the booty, among
the aged chiefs, and most respectable mt.i of the
tribe, who remained at home. The young men,
who deserted tlie party, are treated with con-
tempt ; and the young vvomeo, whose charms may

i U.it

'*»=»*

356

ACCOUNT or THt INDIANS.

have attracted them back, frequently couiposd
songs of derision, in regard to their behaviour.

The occasions of war among the Indians arc
various. Sometimes a person in one tribe has
been murdered by a person belonging to another
tribe ; sometimes the members of one tiibe have
hunted on the lands of another; and sometimes
horses have been stolen. The Indians, who in-
habit the large plains, who always go to war on
horseback, frequently attack their neighbours,
merely to obtain, by this means, horses and slaves.
It is not uncommon.; also, for the Natives, when
they lose a respecied chief, or any other person
generally beloved, either by an ordinary or a vio-
lent death, to form a war party, for the purpose
of killing one person or more, of a neighboring
tribe ; and the case is the same, whether this
tribe be at peace with them, or not. This slaugh-
ter, they say, enables them to calm their grief,
and sets their hearts at rest, as blood has thus
been offered to the manes of their departed
friend.

A person appointed to head a war party, is
called a chief, or O-ke-maw. He must have given
distinguished proof of his bravery, prudence and
cunning, in former war expeditions, in order thai
he should be cofisidered as qualified to fill this
post. Great skilh in coming upon an enemy by

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

357

riiirprlsc, as on this circumstance the success of an
attach depends, is considered as the first requisite
in a military leader. It is considered necessary,
also, that he should he well acquainted with the
situation of the territories of the eiieray, and with
the course leading to them, in which provisions
can most easily be obtained. A war party some-
times consists of several hundreds ; but frequently
it does not amount to more than twentv. The
war chief has no authority over his followers,
but his advice is generally respected and follow-
ed.

It is not often that two tribes, which have been
in the habit of carrying on war agairjst each oth-
er, formally enter into terms of peace. When
such an event docs take place, the following cir-
cumstances attend it. One chief or more, and
several young men of his tribe, go with their pipe
of peace, to find their enemies ; and on their ar-
rival among them, thoy express a desire to hold a
council with them. Upon this, all the elders of
the tribe visited, are called together ; and the
chief, who is an ambassadour for peace, makes
known his busiMess, and strives to convince his en-
emies, that it will be for their advantage to live
on amicable t^srms with his tribe.

Should the terms of peace be agreed on, the
parties smoke in each othin's pipes, after whicli a

,^^-rj»iv- -^W-

358

ACCOUNT OF THE INi»iAN?,

'i > ;

feast is prepared ; and when tbac ih runcluded,
the remainder of the night is spent ia singing and
dancing. — But should the embassy be unsuccessful,
the chief, with his attendants, will return, and
make report of his proceedings to his own tribe ;
and those of them who are able and willing to
bear arms, will immediately, though as secretly as
possible, commence making preparations for a
campaign, the ensuing spring. The points of the
arrows, which the Indians use in attacking their
enemies, are sometimes dipped in a poisonous liquid
which they extract from certain roots.

All the Indians spend much of their ame in
some kind of amusement. The inhabitants of the
plains, generally, and of New Caledonia, live in
large hands ; and Jire much more addicted to
amusements, than the inhabitaiiis of woody coun-
tries who are more scattered. Every tribe has
amusements ^nji;uliar to itself; but some plays are
common lo uii, who reside on the east side of the
Rocky Mountain. The Assiniboins, as well as all
the other Indians in the plains, spend much of
their time about their horses, and are fond of
trying their speed. Their youth, from the age
of four or five to that of ejghteeo or twenty years,
pas } nearly half of their time in shooting aiiovvs
at a mark ; and to render this employment more
interesting, they always have something at stake,

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

359

which is generally nothing more than nn irrow,
or something of small value. From so early and
constant a practice, they become, at length, the
best marksmen, perhaps, in the world. Many of
them, at the distance of eight or ten rods, will
throw an arrow with such precision, as twice out
of three times, to hit a mark of the size of a dol-
lar. The young men often amuse themselves, in
the summer season, by a game of ball.

What is denominated bv the Indians, the dish
game, is played with peculiar interest, by all
the tribes with which I have been acquainted.
Eight or ten little pioces of bones, or so many but-
tons, or some similar things, have a certain num-
ber of marks upon their different sides, so that
they bear some resemblance to dice. These are
put into a dish, which two persons shake alter-
nately, and turn itb contents on the ground. The
marks on the sides of the bones, &c. which are
uppermost, are then counted ; and, in a givv :*
number of throws, he who can count the greatest
number of marks, wins whatever is at stake 5 for
they never play, without something.

The Sauteux and Crees are very fond of play-
ing at draughts ; and they are considerably skil-
ful, at this game. They have, also, many other
plays and diversions, which enable tliom to pass
away the greater part, of their leisure time, gaily.

it :'.

360

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

r M

E^'-r^r

f i 111

The Indians^ generally, appr^ar cheerful and con-
tenied, when oppressed by no present difliculty or
danger j for they take little thought for the things
of the nnorrovF.

The Indians do not often Jance, -in the day
time ; but they frequetntly spend their long win-
ter evenings, in this amusement,, accompanied by
singing ; and they appear to enjoy themselves
fully as well, on such occasions, as civilized peo-
ple do, at their more refined assemblies.

All the Natives are accustomed to make
feasts, on various occasions, and particularly when
any uncommon or important business is to be
transacted. When a band of from thirty to fif-
ty tents is collected, scarcely a day passes with-
out an entertainment, made by some one oiT the
number.

When a ciiief proposes to make a feast, he
invites such guests as he pleases, by sending to
them (]ullk, or small pieces of wood. Every
person, who attends, brings with him a disband a
knife. The chief generally receives his guests,
standing, but oftentimes, sitting ; and a person
who assists him, seats them, accordirjg to their
iges or respectability, the most honourable place
being next to the chief. After having made u di-
vision of what had been provided, into a num-
ber oi parts, eqtvd to the number of persons

4'f I

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

361

present, the chief lights his pij^e, and smokes
a (ew whiffs himself; and he then presents the
stem toward the sun, as if offering it to that lumin-
ary, and to the earth, and then to his deceased
relations, pointing it toward the fire. These cer-
emonies being over, he presents it successively to
each person present, who smokes a few whiHs m
his turn. A small quantity of meat or drink is
thon sacrificed, by throwing it into the fire, or on
the earth, and the provisions are served round.
While the company are partaking of them, the
chief sings, and accompanies his song, by the che-
che-quy or tambourin. The person who devours
Km portion the soonest, is considered as deserving
applause. If any cannot cat all that is set before
him, as custom does not allow him to leave any
thing, he endeavours, by the promise of a reward
of tobacco or ammunition, to prevail upon his
friends to assist him. These substitutes, it is fre-
quently difficult to procure, as the food provided
on these occasions, is generally much more than
is necessary to satisfy the calls of nature. At
some of their feasts, a more rational custom pre-
vails, of permitting the guests to carry away what
they do not wi*h to eat, of their portions. Th«
meat which is generally eaten on these occasions,
is that of the beaver ; and the bones of this ani-
mal, which are extremely hard, that ramain

Ih v,l

:j62

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

■^l:-''

after the feast, arc burned, lest the dogs by at-
tempting to break them, should injure their teeth.

The pubhc feasts are conducted in the same
manner, but with additional ceremony. Several
chiefs unite in preparing a suitable place, and in
collecting sufficient provisions, for tlie accom-
modation of a numerous assemblage. To pro-
vide a place, poles are fixed obliquely into the
ground, enclosing a sufficient space to hold several
hundred, and at times, nearly a thousand people.
On these poles, skins arc laid, at the height of
twelve or fifteen feet, thus forming a spacious
court, or tent. The provisions consist both of
dried and of fresh meat, as it would not be prac-
ticable to prepare a sufficient quantity of fresh
meat, for such a multitude, which, however, con-
sists only of men. At these feasts, the guests con-
verse only on elevated topics, such as the public
interests of the tribe, and the noble exploits of
their- progenitors, that they may infuse a publick
and an heroic spirit, into their young men. Danc-
ing always forms the concluding ceremony, at
these festivals ; and the women, who are not per-
mitted to enter the place where they are cele-
brated, dance and sing around them, often keep
ing time with the music within.

All the different tribes of Indians, on the east
side of the Rocky Mountain, believe in the ex-

A. ^^*'

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

363

istence of one Supreme Being, the creator and
governour of the world, whom they call Kitch-e-
mon-e-too, or the Great Spirit ; and to him they
ascribe every perfection. They consider him as
the authourof all good, and as too benevolent to
inflict any evil upon his creatures. They render
him little worship ; but occasionally suppli-
cate of him success in their important undertak-
ings, and very rarely, render him some sacrific-
es, consisting of some part of their property. ;:l

They, also, believe in the existence of a bad
spirit, whom they call Much-e-mon-e-too, to whom
they ascribe great power, and who, they believe,
is the authour of all the evils, by which mankind
are afflicted. To him, therefore, in order to ob-
tain deliverance from evils which they either ex-
perience or fear, they offer many, and sometimes
expensive, sacrifices. They consider him as ever
employed, in plotting against their peace and safe-
ty ; and they hope, by luch means, to appease
his anger.

They, also, believe that there arc good and
bad spirits, of an inferiour order, who are superi-
our to men in the scale of existence, and who
have allotted spheres of action, in which they
are contributing to the happiness or misery of
mankind. These beings they suppose preside
over all the extraordinary productions of na-

■I'

;:i

364

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

I'M';

ture, such as large lakes, rivers and mountains,
and spacjous caverns, &c. and likewise over the
beasts, birds, fishes, vegetables, and stones, that
exceed the rest of their species in size, or in
any other remarkable quality. On this account,
they pay to all these objects, some ku.d of
adoration. <? . - ' >^^*«i ^

They, also, believe in a' future state of ex-
istence. Those who, while in the present world,
have, according to their ideas of right and wrong,
led a good life, will, at death, immediately enter
on another and a better state of existence, where
they will meet their departed relatives and friends,
who will welcome them in the most affection-
ate manner, to their happy abode. In the fu-
ture world, thoy believe that they shall pos-
sess bodies more beautiful and healthy and vig-
ourous, than those which they animated on earth ;
and that they shall be much more happy, than
they were in the present life, since the country
in which they will reside, abounds with all kinds
of game, which they will be able to take, with
little or no trouble, and supplies every gratifi-
cgition, in which they now delight, in perfection
and without end.

But those who lead wicked lives on earth,
they suppose will, at death, be conveyed into
the middle of an extensive swamp or marsh«

'm..m.

' -4

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

.'360

where they will, for a considerable length of
time, be doomed to wander about alone, in
search of their deceased friends. After havinc:
siiiTered greatly, from hunger and cold, they
suppose that they will, at length, arrive at the
pleasant habitation of their departed relatives,
and participate with them, in all its delights
foreve;, ' ' '

The religious observances of the Indians, con-
sist of prayers, of feasts, and of a sacrifice of some
part of their property. — Their prayers, which
are offered only on special occasions, are always
addressed to the Supreme Being, or Master of
Life. Their religious festivals are attended with
much serious ceremony. They commence with
opening the medicine bag, and displaying its con-
tents, and with smoking out of the sacred stem.
Almost very male Indian has a medicine bag,
which is commonly made of leather, and is about
two (eet long, and a foot broad. The following
articles are generally contained in this bag. The
principal in importance is a small image, carved
to resemble a bird, beast or human being, which
they seem to consider as the peculiar residence
of their tutelary spirit. This image, they care-
fully wrap in down, around which a piece of birch
bark is tied, and the whole is enclosed in several
folds of red and blue cloth. Every Indian ap-

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ACCOUNT OF THE iNDlANS.

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pears to have a reverence iuv the Image, in his
own medicine bag ; but will often speak disre-
spectfully of one, belonging to another person.
The next article in the bag, is the war cap of its
owner, which is decorated with the plumes of
scarce birds, and with the claws of the beaver,
eagle, &c. It has also a quill or feather, suspend-
ed from it, for every enemy, whom its owner has
slain in battle. The other contents of the bag
are a piece of tobacco, and some roots and other
substances, which are supposed to possess valua-
ble medicinal qualities. To the outside of the
bag, the sacred stem is tied, which is generally
about six feet long. This stem is used only for
smoking on sacred occasions. This medicine bag
is generally hung, in fair weather, on a limb of a
tree, or on a stake, at a little distance from the
tent ; and an Indian would severely beat his wife,
if she should presume to touch it. This is the
only article which the men invariably Ct.rry them-
selves, when they are decamping. Many oi
them pretend, that by examining it, they can
foretel future events. — The women, also, have
their own medicine bags ; but they are not con-
sidered as of a sacred character, and merely con-
tain their own articles of medicine. — Smoking out
of the sacred stem, is performed with numerous

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

367

ceremonies, many of which are probably unmean-
ing. •:•• ^

Some Indians make a promise to the Master
of Life, that they will make a feast every spring
during a certain number of successive years,
if their lives are spared ; and they religiously
fulfil such vows.

Some of their feasts are designed to propitiate
the evil spirit, as are nearly all the sacrifices
which they make of their property. Sometimes
in an open enclosure, on the bank of a river or
lake, they make large sacrifices of their property.
They choose a conspicuous situation, that those
who pass by, may be induced to make their oifcr-
ings. If any of the tribe that makes these offer-
ings, or even a stranger who is passing these pla-
ces, should be in urgent want of any thing which
has been deposited as an offering, he is allowed to
take it, by replacing it with another article which
he can spare, though of inferiour value ; but l;o
take wantonly any of those devoted articles, is
considered as sacrilege. ; " ^ • '•

' There are also certain large rocks and caves,
which they never pass without leaving at them
some trifling articles ; for they suppose that they
are the habitations of some good or evil spirits.
Indeed they think that almost every lake, river

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ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

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and mountain has its tutelary spirit, whom
they attempt to propitiate, by some ollering.

All the Natives suppose the earth to be an
extensive plain, and that it is always at rest ; and
that the sun and moon and piany of the stars con-
tinually revolve around it. The sun, they believe
to be a large body of fire. To many of the stars
they have given names, such as the morning star,
the evening star, and the seven stars ; and by
their position in the heavens, they are able to de-
termine the time of night. They, also, direct
their course by them in travelling, in the night sea-
son. The stars which they have named, they
perceive change their pos'tion continually in the
heavens ; and they believe that, like the sun and
the moon, they revolve around the earth. Of
the motion of the other stars, they take no notice
and consider them as stationary. The following
is the manner in which they divide a day and
night, or twenty four hours : from the first appear-
ance of day light to sunrise, from this time till
noon, from noon to sunset, from this to midnight,
and from midnight to day break. They fire igno-
rant of the number of days, which there uire in
a year ; but reckon thirteen moons, to compl-Qte
the four seasons.

The following are the names of the four
seasons, in the Cree tongue. Winter, A-pe-pook

: '•;?

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

369

or Pepoon ; Spring, Me-is-ka-mick or Se-gum-
uck ; Summer, Nic-pin ; Autumn, Tuck-wa-gin.

The names, which they give to the moons that
compose the year, are descriptive of the several
seasons, and in Cree, are the following:

May, I-ich e Pes-im, Frog Moon.

June, O-pin-a-wa we Pes-im, the Moon in
which birds begin to lay their eggs.

July, O-pus-ko we Peb-iui, Tlit; Moon when
birds cast their feathers.

August, 0-pa-ko we Pes-im, The Moon when
the young birds begin to fly.

September, Wa-was-kis o Pes-im, The moon
when the moose cast their horns; or A-pin-nas-ko o
Pes-im, The Moon when the leaves fall off from
the trees.

October, 0-no-chi-hit-to-wa o Pes-im, The
rutting Moon; or 0-ke-wa-ow o Pes-im, The Moon
when the fowls go to the south.

November, Ay-e-coop-ay o Pes-im, Hoar frost
Moon. Kus-kut-te-io o Pes-im, Ice Moon.

December, Pa-vvatch-e-can-a-nas o Pes-im,
Whirlwind Moon.

January, Kush-a-pa-was-ti-ca-num o Pes-im, Ex-
treme cold Moon.

February, Kee-chay o Pes-im, The Moon when
small birds begin to chirp or sing; or Kich-ee o
Pes-im, Big, or old Moon.

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370

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

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March, Me-ke-su o Pes-im, Eagle Moon.

April, Nis-ka o Pes-im, Goose Moon, as at this
season, these animals return from the south.

The Indians compute the distance from one
place to another, by the number of nights which
they have passed, in performing a journey from
one to the other.

All the Natives employ hieroglyphicks, for
the purpose of conveying information to those
who are distant from them ; and this mode of com-
munication, is often of great service to them, as
the following circumstances will evince. Portions
of each tribe, generally assemble at certain pla-
ces, every year. When they separate, they pro-
ceed in different directions ; and at every place
where they severally encamp, they fix a number
of sticks in the ground, leaning towards the
place where they next intend to pitch their tents.
If they have been successful in the chace, they
paint or draw on a piece of bark, the number
and kinds of animals which they may have killed,
and hang the bark upon a stake. When Indians
who have been unsuccessful in regard to killing
animals, fail upon these notices, they derive im-
portant advantages from them, as they are thus
guided to the place, where they may probably
obtain a supply of food. Indeed, without some
such regulation, the Natives would often be in

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

371

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i^reat danger of perishing with hunger. On the
piece of bark, containing information respecting
their past success, and their future course, they
leave, also, the date of their encampment, by
painting the animal, or whatever else it is that
gives name to the then present Moon, or month,
and by describing the figure of the Moon at that
particular time. And so correct is this mode of
conveying intelligence, that a person accustomed
to it, will generally ascertain, within from twelve
to twenty four hours, the time designed to be
specified.

The Indians possess a quick perception, and
strong curiosity, and a very retentive memory;
and every circumstance which occurs, and the va-
rious objects which present themselves to their
view, are noticed and recollected. And, there-
fore, at the expiration of twenty years after they
have passed only once through a country, to the
distance of several hundred miles, they will re-
turn by the same way in which they came.
Mountains, hills, prairies^ lakes, valleys, remarka-
ble rocks, &c. are the objects which they espe-
cially notice, and the situation of which, they trea-
sure up in their memories ; and by these they are
enabled to follow a former track. Almost any
Indian, who has passed once through a country, is
able to draw so correct a chart of it, with a piece

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372

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

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of charcoal, on bark, that an entire stranger, by
its assistance, would be able to direct his course
to a particular place, several hundred miles dis-
tant, without varying a league from his object. — •
The Natives are never at a loss in regard to the dif-
ferent points of the compass, particularly in a woody
country, as they well know, that on the north side
of the trees, more moss is found, than on the oth-
er sides.

The priest among the Indians, is also a physi-
cian and a conjurer or magician. — When he acts
as priest, he presides at feasts and funerals. — In
the capacity of j)hysician, when sent for, he visits
the sick and wounded, and prescribes medicines
for their healing, and directs in their application,
in doing which he goes through with many cere-
monies, with great gravity. If the patient is very
ill, he attends him at least every morning, and
sings and shakes his che-che-quy, for an hour or
two, over his head, making an unpleasant noise,
which, it would seem, must do injury to the sick
person. These Indian physicians do at times,
however, perform distingu'-^hed cures. Their
medicines consist of the bark of particular trees,
of roots and of herbs, used at some times in their
simple state, and at others in a compounded form.
For wounds and sores, they use, chiefly, decoctions
of roots. The doctor is always well paid for his

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

373

iervices, and his profession is the most lucrative
of any among the Indians. — When he acts as con-
jurer, he shuts himself up in a small cabin, where
he is completely concealed from the view, and
■where he reniains silent, during ten or fifteen min-
utes. He then begins to sing, and to beat his
drum, and continues to do so, for about half an
hour. And then, if any one has a question to pro-
pose respecting futurity, he is ready to answer it,
which, however, he will not do, without a triflino;
recompense. It is not uncommon for events to
take place, much as these conjurers predict ; but
whether this is to be attributed to their natural
sagacity, or to accident, or to -^ther circumstances,
I pretend not to determine.

A person who is desirous of becoming a phy-
sician or conjurer, is publickly initiated, with much
mysterious ceremony. Among these ceremonies
are the following. The old physicians prepare
an entertainment for a certain number of people ;
and for the young candidate, they have a peculiar
mess, which consists of a bitch, boiled with her
young in her. A part of this animal, he must eat;
and they suppose that it possesses the magical
power, of inspiring him with a knowledge of the
medicinal qualities of all kinds of barks, herbs,
roots, &c. — A woman, who wishes to become a
midwife, must not only eat a part of the bitch,

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374

ACCOUNT OF THK INDlAiNS.

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but must, also, partake of her puppies, and drink
of the broth in which they were boiled ; and by
this means, she gains, as is supposed, all the knowl-
edge requisite to the practice of this difficult art.

The Indian physicians never fail of leaving in
the place where they collect the roots, herbs, &c.
which they use as medicines, some trifling article,
as a recompense to the guardian spirits, that pre-
side over these substances, for what they have
taken. An omission of this would, in their appre-
hension, destroy most, if not all the efficacy of
their medicines.

The Natives, in general, are very credulous
and superstitious. They believe that many of
their own medicines, when properly applied, will
effijct almost any thing. They think, however,
that we possess some, which, for certain purposes,
are much more efficacious than their own. All
Indians are very desirous of having a numerous
offspring ; and, therefore, those, whose wives are
barren, will frequently apply to us for such a med-
icine as will cause them to become the mothers of
children. — The young women, also, make use of a
certain powder, of their own composition, for the
purpose of engaging or increasing the affections of
their favourites, for them. By throwing this even
upon a stranger, who is passing, they believe, it
will cause him to be in love with them. In a

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

375

word, they ascribe a power to this medicine, like
that, which more refined imaginations have attrib-
uted to the arrows of Cupid. The young women,
also, employ many other magical arts, to accom-
plish the same object. — A woman who is fond of
her husband, and who supposes that he has little
affection for her, will rub a certain medicine in the
palm of her hand, as she is going to bed ; and af-
ter he falls asleep, she will lay her hand on his
heart ; and the medicine, she thinks, possesses the
power of uniting their hearts together, and ol*
causing their affection, ever afterward, to be re-
ciprocal.

The Indians have no professional mechanicks
among them. Every man is his own artificer,
and is able to construct the few domestick man-
ufactured articles, which he uses. Some persons
among them, more ingenious than the rest, are
frequently applied to, to execute some things
which require considerable skill, such as putting
a stock to a gun ; but they take no compensa-
tion, for such a service. Their bows and arrows
are neatly constructed. In order to make their
arrows round and straight and smooth, after they
have been reduced nearly to their proper size
with a knife, they use the following method.
Th«y take two pieces of wood, of suitable thick-
ness, which are several inches long, and cut in

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376

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

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each of them a straiorht channel, ot the same
size, and of such a shape, that, when both are
placed together, they form a circular hole. Over
this channel, they spread glue, and upon that
they sprinkle sand ; and they repeat the opera-
tion, until a complete file is formed. The arrow
is then placed in the channel, between the two
pieces of wood, and is briskly passed backward
and forward, until it is reduced to its proper
size. Their pipes are made of a soft stone.
The bowl, into which the tobacco is put, is cir-
cular, and at the bottom it is flat, and much broad-
er. These pipes are frequently carved, in a curi-
ous manner. The pipe is connected with its
stem by a chain, generally made of brass wire,
which the Indians obtain from us, and which
hangs loosely from one to the other. The stem
is of wood, such as has a small pith ; and as their
sacred stems are about six feet in length, the
manner in which they extract this pith, deserves
to be mentioned. They use, for this purpose, a
piece of seasoned hard wood. It is sharpened to
a point, at one end ; and at a little distance from
this, 't is reduced to a smaller size, by a perpen-
dicular cut around it, by which a kind of head or
barb is formed. By pushing th'V: in and drawing
it out, the pith is gradually extracted. The wood
which forms the handle to this barb, is reduced to

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

377

same
Ih are
Over
that
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\e two
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Di'oper
stone,
is cir-
broad-
a curi-
ith its
wire,
which
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lerpe fi-
le ad or
rawing
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ced to

Ji very small size, as fast only as is required by
the length of the hole. Wooden dishes, they con-
struct, with crooked knives. The women manifest
much ingenuity and taste, in the work which they
execute, with porcupine quills. The colour of
these quills is various, beautiful and durable ; and
the art of dying them, is practised only by females.
To colour black, they make use of a chocolate
coloured stone, which they burn, and pound fine,
and put into a vessel, with the bark of the hazel-
nut tree. The vessel is then filled with water,
and into it the quills are put, and the vessel is
placed over a small fire, where *he liquor in it is
permitted to simmer, for two or three hours.
The quills are then taken out. ^ni put on a board,
to dry, before a gentle fire. After they have
been dried and rubbed over with bear's oil, they
become of a beautiful shining black, and are fit
for use. To dye red or yellow, they make use of
certain roots, and the moss which they find, on a
species of the fir tree. These are put, together
with the quills, into a vessel, filled with water,
made acid, by boiling currants or gooseberries,
&c. in it. The vessel is then covered tight, and
the liquid is made to simmer over the fire, for
three or four hours, after which the quills are
taken out and dried, and are fit for use. Feath-

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378

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANA.

, : M

ers, they also dye in a similar manner, and these
colours never fade.

Many of the Indians, particularly those on the
west side of the Rocky Mountain, who have not
procured steels from us, for the purpose of strik-
ing fire, produce it, by placing one end of a
small dry stick against another piece of dry
wood ; and by rolling it briskly between their
two hands, the friction, in a short time commu-
nicates fire to dry hay or touchwood, placed
around it.

Among the Indians, there are poets, who
are ulso musicians. The person who composes
a song, does it by singing it over alone, in the
air which he designs shall accompany it ; and
he repeats this exercise, until he has committed
both sufficiently to memory. After that, he fre-
quently teaches it to. others. Songs are fre-
quently composed for particular occasions, such
as feasts, &c. Among the Carriers, the'*) are
often several competitors for this honour; and
he who composes the best song, is rewarded,
while the unsuccessful poets are treated with
derision. The subjects of their songs are gene-
rally love and war, though they have some whinh
are ludicrous and obscene. They have a great
variety of songs ; and I have known an Indian

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

379

!'•

who could sing at least two hundred, and each
song had its peculiar air. Female poets are not
common among them. Some of the women, how-
ever, are excellent singers.

No two, of the fifteen tribes of Indians, with
whom I have been acquainted, speak precisely
the same language ; but the languages of nine of
them only, seem to be radically different. There
is only a variation of dialect among the Crees,
Sauteux and Muscagoes. The same is true of
the Chipewyans, Beaver Indians, Sicaunies, Ta-
cullies and Nateotetains. The language spoken
by the Sauteux, Crees and Muscagoes is by far
the most copious and manly, but that used by
the Assiniboins, is the most harmonious and ele-
gant. • V 1

Every tribe has its particular tract of coun-
try ; and this is divided again, among the several
families, which compose the tribe. Rivers, lakes
and mountains, serve them as boundaries ; and
the limits of the territory which belongs to each
family are as well known by the tribe, as the
lines which separate farms are, by the farmers, in
the civilized world. The Indians who reside in
the large plains, make no subdivisions of their ter-
ritory; for the wealth of their country consists of
buffaloes and wolves, which exist in plenty, every

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380

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

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where among them. But the case is otherwise,
with the inhabitants of the woody countries.
These people have nothing with which to pur-
chase their necessaries, excepting the skins of ani-
mals, which are valuable for their fur ; and should
they destroy all those animals in one season, they
would cut off their means of subsistence. A pru-
dent Indian, whose lands are not well stocked with
animals, kills only what are absolutely necessary
to procure such articles as he cannot well dispense
with. . '

-v The foregoing account of the Natives, having
a principal reference to the tribes on the east side
of the Rocky Mountain, it may be proper, in con-
cluding it, to make a few general remarks on
the country which they inhabit.

•I That part of it which lies between the 44th
and the 52d degrees of north latitude, is a plain
or prairie country, almost wholly destitute of tim-
ber, of any kind. It is, in general, sufficiently dry
for any kind of cultivation ; and is covered with
grass, which commonly grows to the height of
from six inches to a foot, though in some marshy
places it is much higher. This grass furnishes
food for innumerable herds of buffaloes, which are
constantly roving about, from ,tlace to place, fol-
lowed by thousands of wolves, and many grey and

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ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

381

black bears, that are always on the watch, for fa-
vourable opportunities to fall upon and devour
them. The frrey bear, on account of his strength
and ferocity, may well be denominated the mon-
arch of the forest ; and should he at any time find
an hundred wolves or more, feeding on the car-
case of the buffaloe, the sight of him would cause
them all to retire, with all the humility and sub-
mission of conscious weakness, and he would be
permitted to make his meal, at his- leisure and in
quietness.

The country lying between the 52d and the
70th degree o/" north latitude, may be denominat-
ed mountainous. Between its elevated parts, how-
ever, there are valleys and plains, of considerable
extent, and which are covered with timber, of a
small growth, more than one fourth part of which
is the spruce fir. The other kinds of timber are
aspin, poplar, birch, hemlock, spruce, cedar, willow,
and a little pine. Much of this country, in its less
elevated parts, is covered with large rocks and
stones, with so thin a coat oC earth upon them,
that it could not be cultivated. I am of opinion,
however, that one fourth, if not one third part, of
the whole of this great extent of country, might
be cultivated to advantage. The soil, in general,
is tolerably good ; and, in many places, is not ex-

382

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

ceeded in richness, by any part of North America.
I think it probable, that as much as one sixth part
of the whole of this country, is covered with wa-
ter. The great number of large lakes, which are
scattered over it, and of noble streams, which pass
through it, afford a water communication, in al-
most every direction. • ^ '

' As this country is so extensive, it is natural to
suppose, that the climate is various. In all parts
it is considerably cold. In latitude 54° or 55° the
mercury, for several successive days, in the month
of January, is as low as '^0 or 32 degrees below
zero. There are not, however, more than ten or
twelve days, during a winter, that are so severely
cold. The summers are sufficiently warm and
long, to bring most kinds of grain and vegetables
to perfection. Indian corn will never ripen far-
ther north, than about latitude 53°.

The following fact may be interesting to some
persons, as perhaps no similar discovery has been
made, equally far north. In the summer of 1816
there was found, on the margin of a small stream
that falls into Peace River, in about the 56th de-
gree of north latitude, and the 118th of west lon-
gitude, a part of the thigh bone of a Mammoth,
which was about eighteen inches in length, and

which weighed twenty eight pounds. During that

•*■

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

383

summer, the waters rose very high, in all the
streams in that region ; and when they subsided,
the banks, in many places, fell in. It was in such
a place, that this bone was found. It was sent to
Canada, and I believe, thence to England.

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A SPECIMEN

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OF THE

CREE OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE,

WHIQH IS SPOKEN, BY AT LEAST THREE FOURTHS OF THE INDIANS OF
THE NORTH WEST COUNTRY, ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE

ROCKY MOUNTAIN.

■' ^ i

Good Spirit

Evil Spirit

Man

Woman

Young man

Young womaft

Infant

Head

Forehead

Cheek

Chin

Hair

Eye

Nose

Kitch-e mon-e-too
Mutch e-mon-e-loo
A-ye nu
Es-qui

Os-kin-e-gew '
Os-kin-e-gis-qui
A wa-si^
Is-te gwen
Mis kaw-tick
Mon-o-wy
Ta-lis.kun
Mis-te-ky-ah
Mis kee-sick
Mis-kee-won

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386

SPECIMEN OF THE CREC

lU'f

In'

Nostril

O-tay-e-cum

Mouth

Mee-toon

Tooth

Mee-pit

Tongue

0-tay-e-nee

Beard

May-ist won

Brains

We-it-tip

Ear

Me-ta-wa-ki

Neck

Me-qui-yow

Throat

Me kco-ta-gun

Arms

Mis-pe-tot. n

Hands or fingers

Me-chee-chee

Thumb

JVIe-se-chee-chon

Nail

Mis-cus-see

Side

Ose pe-ki

Back

Mis-pis-quon

Belly

Mot-ti

Thigh

Me-pwam

Body

Me-yow

Knee

Mitch-e-quon

Leg

Mis-kate

Foot

Me- sit

Heart

Me-tay

Spirit or soul

Me-cha-chake

Father

ta-we

Mother

E-ka-we

Son

E-qus-sis

Daughter

E-ta-nis

Brother (elder)

E-stays

Sister (elder)

E-miss

Brother (younger) )
Sister (younger) 5

JSshim

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.

387

Grand Father

Grand Mother

Uncle

Aunt

Nephew

Niece

Father in law

Mother in law

Brother in law

Sister in law

Friend

Husband

Wife

Old man

Old woman

Chief

Thief

Coat

Shirt

Breech cloth

Leggin

Garter

Shoe

Hat or cap

Handkerchief

Mittens (a pair)

Petticoat

Bracelet

Ring

Ear knobs

Comb

E -rao-shome

0-korne

0-ko-mis

E to-sis

E-to-sim

E-to-sim-es-qui

E-sis

E-se-goose

Ish-taw

Ltim

E'wich-i-wa-gun

Ne-na-bem

E-che-magun

Kis-a ye-new

No-to-ca-ow

O-ke-mow

Ke-mo-tisk

Pis-is-cow-e-gun

Pe-puck-e-wy-un

As-si-an

Me-tass

Sis-ca-pis-soon

Mos-ca-sin

As-to-tin

Ta-bis-ka«gun

Us-tis-uck

Kis-ke-sa-ki

Us-ton

Us-ton-is

Ta-be-ta-soon

Se-ca-hoon

, 111,

■

II .1

p .*'

' h

388

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

Needle

Pin (headed needle)

Scissors

Blanket

Gown

Horse

Buffaloe

Ferret

Skunk

Elk

Moose

Carriboo

Beaver

Wolverine

Squirrel

Mink

Otter

Wolf

Hare

Martin

Bear

Fisher

Lynx

Hog

Porcupine

Fox

Musk rat

Cat

Mouse

Meat

Dog

Sa bo-ne-gun

Is te-goine Sa-bo-ne-gun

'^usco-ma-to-in

./a-bo e-un

Pa-to-nis

Mish-ta-tini

Moos-toosh

Se-goose

Se-hawk

A-was-kis

Moose-wa

At-tick

A-misk

Ke-qua a-kisk

An-nick-O'chass

At-cha-kass

Ne-kick

My-e-gun

Wa-poos

Wa-pis-ton

Musk.quaw

0-chake

Pe-su

Ko-koosli

Ka-quaw

Muck-ca-sis

Wa-chesk

Ka-sha-kess

A~pe-co-sis

Wee-as

At-tim

. .i-.!;^*LJ t-.i)^:.A..A.«L:i.'',.-

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.

389

Bitch

Kis kc-sis

Eagle

Me-ke-su

Duck

Sfe-sip

Crow

Kaka ku

Swan

Wa-pis-see

Pheasant

O-kis-kew

Bird

Pe-a-sis

Outard

Nis-ka

White goose

Why-why

Grey goose

Kilch-a-ca-pi-sis

Partridge

Pe-yew ^^'-

Water hen

Se.kip

Pigeon

O-ma-mee

Egg

wa.wa

Pike

I-e-ne ke-no-see

Carp

Na-ma-be

White fish

At-tick cum-mick

Pickerel

O-cow

Fish (in general)

Ke-no'see

Fish roes

Wa.quock -^

Fish scales

Wa-vva-ki

Trout

Na-ma-goose

Frog

Lick

Wasp i

A-mo

Turtle

Mis-ca-nack "^

Snake

Ke-na-bick

Ratde snake

Si-si-qua ke-na-bicl

Toad

, Pe-pe-quot-ta-tu

Lizzard

O-sick-ke-ask

Owl

Oh-ho

Fire steel

Pe-v/a-bisk Ap-pi£

.0 .

• t:4,

■!:.■

'ir ' S

"i, 'ti-
ll I'

K 1 ,

ifS!

390

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

I ,'»

ii.'r

'i*i

Fire wood

Mis-tick

Cradle

Wa-wa bis-soon

Dagger

Ta cuch-e-gun

Lance

Se-ma gun

Bow

A cha-pee

Arrow

At toos

Fish hook . .

Quas-qui-pitch-e-gun

Axe

Chee-ki-e-gun

Hoe

Pe-mich-e chee-ki-e-gun

Net

I-ap-pee

Tree (wood standing \
upright; I

Mis-tick A-che-mus-so

Paddle

A-buy

Canoe

0-see

Birch bark

Was-qui

Bark

Wy-a-kisk

Touch wood

Poos-sa-gun

Gun flint

Chak-is-say-e-gun

Grass

Mos-ko-se-ah

Leaf (of a tree)

Ne-pee-ah

Raspberries

I-os-cun-nuck

Strawberries

0-ta-me-nah

Whortleberries

I-e-ne-me-nah

Choke berries

Tuck-quy-me-ne-na-nah

Gooseberries

Sa-sa-bo-min-uck

Grapes

Sho-rain-is-uck

Ashes

Pe-co

Fire

Es-quit-tu

Current

Kis-se-che-win

Rapid

Pow-is-tick

Winter

Pe-poon

OR KNI9TENEUX TONGUE.

391

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Island

Lake

River

Sun

Moon (night sun)

Stars ^w..,'....™ ^

Sky » ; 'W ."

Clouds i

Thunder

Lightning ' ^^

Rain

Snow

Hail

Calm

Day light

Morning

Day

Night

Noon (half the day)

Sun setting

Midnight

Snow

Drift

Ice

Frost

Dew

Water

World

Me-os-kum-ick

Ne-pin

Tuck-wa-gin

Me-nis-tick

Sa-ki-e-gun

Se-pee

Pe-sim

Tip-is-co pe-sim

At-tack

Kee-sick

Ma-ma-musk-wow

Pe-is-su

Wa-was-sis-quit-a-pi-u

Ke-mo-won

Mis-poon

Sa-sa-gun

I-was-tin

Wa-bun

Ke-kc-jape

Ke-se-cow

Tip-is-cow

A-be-tow Ke-se-cow

Pung-kis-se-mo

A-be-tow Tip-is-cow

Ko-nah

Pe-won

Mis-co-mi

Ya-ya-co-tin

A-co-sa-pa-ow

Ne-pee

Mis-si-wa-as-kee

Mir I

i, !

; 1, h

■; ill
I i ! .

.MJi

"^"JTWiiitwfif

392

SPECIMEN OP THE CREE

* ,' ' t •

Mountain

Wa-chce

Sea ; ■ :

Kitch-e-g§-ming ^ •

Portage ## .

0-ne-gape -

Rivulet - . *

Se-pe-sis *i««M

Sand . ;-g^

. Ya-cow ^^*«*nI.'

Earth | r^^^--'_

As-kee ^-^

Heat r

^ Ke-sG-ta-ow, or #

,■•.•;'■ fi^'^r - .

Ke-jas-ia-QW

Tomorrow fe - '

Wa-bunk *.^**^

Yesterday

O-la-ca-sin ' ^

Today - s> u?r

A-nouch ke-se-cow

Bone , "vi^,-^.v£;-.-. ■<-

Ose-kun ;.-t:^t

Broth * V >

Mich-r-ma-boi t

Provision *, *

Mc-chim

Feast ■ f^ ... - ; V

We-ko-ka-ow * ♦vi^S

Grease or oil

•Pe-me ^-^ - a*i«»H

Marrow fat • >

Ose-kun-e-pe-iiK!?

Marrow ,,,^,.

We-ne ■■^- ■'■ ^^-^i^

Sinew - i^';

As-tis

Lodge or tent 4

. Me-ke-wapc . «^ Cb

Bed ■:^. T.i?^

Ne-pa-win #*-

Door

. Es-qua-tem i***^

Dish

We-a-gun * *,

Spoon or ladle ..

' A-me queii

Plate ^^^^ «^

Na-puck-e-a-gun

Knife . '-lij^"

Mo-cum-mon ^

Fork '■ , ;- t^K

Chis-ti-e-gun

Kettle

As-kick

Teakettle >

Se-sip as-kick

Sack or bag

Mus-ca-moote

Trunk

Mis-tick-o-wis

OR KNISTENEUX TO^'GUE..

393

Table

Chair

Fort or house

Floor

Window

Chimney

Cupboard

Keg

Sledge

Cincture or belt

Socks

'"',th

iOl

Thread
Smoking bag
Portage sling
Powder
Balls
Shot

Powder horn
Shot bag
Gun
Ramrod

Gun c?sc
Pistol
Steel trap
Grave
Grave yard
Spirits
Wine
Milk

Mi t-te-sou-w i n-Si-tic

Ta-e-tup-pe-win

Was-ky-e-gun

A-nas-cun

Was-sa-ne-mon

Cou-ta-na-bisk

A-cou-cha-gun

Muck-kuck

Ta-bin-ask

Pa-qua-ta-hoon

As-se-gun ;j,

Mon-ne-too-wa-gen

As-se-bape

Ap-pit

Ap-pe-can

Kus-ke-ta

Mo-sus-se-nu

Nis-cus-se-ne-uck

Pa-che-pa-quon

Pa-tus-se-non

Paw-skis-se-gun

Se-se-quit-is-ca-we-al-gun-

a-tick
As-pick-e-na-gun
Paw-skis-se-gun-is
Pe- w a-bisk- won-a-e-gu ri
Ni-e-now
A-qua-os-cun
Squit-te-wa-bo
Sho-min-a-bo
To-toos-a-bo .

#■

Hi'i::

mmf'

111 It i

• .::?n

394

SPECIMEN OP THE CREE

, . r

ft *.

Breasts

Butter

Flour or bread

Indian corn

Potatoe

Turnip

Onion

Carrot

Tea or medicine water

Sugar

Wild rice

Glass or mirror

General or great chief

Soldier

Home

Iron

Money

Book or letter

Medicine

Lover

Pipe

Tobacco

Weed for smoking

Part (of a thing)

Slave

Orphan

Peninsula

Relation

Ship

Sword

Stone

To-toos

To-toos-a-bo pe-me

Pa-qui-se-gun

Mun-da-nin-uck

Aske-pwow-wa

0-te-se-kan

We-cha-kus-ka-se

Os-kate-ask

Mus-ca-kee-w&-bo

Se-se-bas-quit

Mus-co-se-me-nah

Wa-bim-oon

Kitch-e-o-ki-mow

Se-m§,-gun-is

E-ke-n^ke

Pe-w8l-bisk

So-ne-ah

Mish-e-my-e-gun

Mus-ca-kee

Jim-is-sim

Os-poa-gun

Chis-ta-mow

A-cha-c&-che-puck-wow

Puck-ee

A-wa-kun

Ke-watch-e-w^-sis

Kis-is-tig-guy-ow

E-to-tame

Na-pe-quon

She-maw-gun

As-se-ne

iu2j

■

OR KNI8TENEUX TONGUE. 395

Store

Tut-tow-o-way-gum-mick ; \0

White earth

Wa-but-toon-isk ^■

Tatler

0-zom-e-toon-ew

Liar

Ka-ke-as-ku

Bad man

Much-e-pe-raa !,is-su i.

Good man

Me-u-pe-ma-tis-su f

Earthquake
Track (of the feet)

An-ne-mus-kum-ke-py-you j .
I-a-sa-se-ta-you j
Mays-ke-now .f

Road or path

Whirlwind

Cus-tin '\

■>

Good weather

Me-u-ke-si-cow i j

Bad weather

Mut-cha-ke-si-cow ii;

Male

Na-bew

Female

O-ne-cha-nee '.

:■

Cloudy

A-quos-quon

Windy

E-o-tin

North

Ke-wa-tin

South

Sa-win-oke

East

Cos-kow-kos-take

West

Ke-wa-noke

Straight

Qui-esk

Crooked

Wa-kow

Red

Me-quow ,, .

■A

Blue

Che-ba-tock-wow \ 1

Yellow

1 1
O-saw-wow i

Green

As-ke-tuck-wow

Black

Kus-ke-ta-wow ' L

^'.^

Ugly

My-a-te-su I

Handsome

Cut-e-wa-se-su

Beautiful

Me-u-nog-won

Deaf

Na-mo-ta-w&-cow i|:

' .,',

•

• '1

396

SPECIMEN OP THE CREE

it *

Good natured

Pregnant

Fat or fleshy

Large

Small

Short

Tall

Merry

Melancholy

Long

Strong

Weak

Cowardly

Brave

Lean

Foolish

Sensible

Stiff

Sick

Dead

Alive

Miserable

Upper

Lower

All

Half

Drunken

English

French

Equal or alike

Far off

Me-wa-tick-e-su

Pwow-wew -w

We-in-no

Me-chus-ca-wa-ke-su

Up-pe-se-se-su

Che-mis-se-su

Me-sick-e-tu

Me-wa-tick-won

Pe-kis-ca-tum

Keen-wow

Mus-ca-wow

Na-m^ mus«ca-wow

Sa-koo-ta-ov/

So-ca-te-ow

Se-kut chu

Ke-squiow

I-e-ne-su

Se-ta-wow

A-quis-su

Ne-poo

Pe-ma-tis-su *

Kit-te-ma-ga-su

Is-pe-mink

Tup-pa-sis

Kuck-e-ow ^

A-be-tow

Ke-squi-ba-ow

A-qui-as-se-wock

Wa-mis-to-go-she-wock

Ta-bis-kootch

Wy-yow

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.

397

Nigh fl

Kis-se-wake

Few or little

U|)-pa-sis

Fatigued -

Ty-is-co-sin

Good

Me-wa-shin

Bad

My-a-ton

Avaricious

Sa-sa-kis-su

Generous

May-ye-kis-ku

Greedy

Ka-shock-ca-ow

Hidden

Ilas-so

Lazy

Kit-te-mew

Lame

Mils kip.pi-you

Much

Me-chet

Flat

Nah-puck-ow

Round

Wa-way-ye-you

Quick

Ka-ke-e-pe

That

A-o-co

This

Muck-o-mao

Too little

0-som-up-pe-sis

Too much

0-som-me-chet

Deep

Tee-mew

Shallow

Pake- wow

Frightful

Sa-sis-ke-nsl-guon

Wicked

- My-a-che-ta-ow

Difficult

I-ye-moii

First

Ne-kan

Behind

O-take

Last

Squi-atch

Me-nali

Better

Ka-me-wa-shin

Good scented

We-cum-a-gun

Each

Pa-pa-uck

if'.

illl

i;:.i

«!^'

h'l'

i^ ^

398

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

.(I I

,'lif*

I f^

^■^■<*

Other
My own
Your own
His or her own
Their own
Our own
We?
Who?
What?
1 am angry
I fear
To rejoice
To hear
To see
To smell
To taste
To feel
To come in
To sirtg
To halloo
To whistle
To weep
To laugh
To sigh
To arrive
To depart
Assist me
To beat
To believe
To rattle
To suck

Pa-toosh

Nene-ty-un

Kene4y-un

We-ah-one-ty-un

We-ah-wow-one-ty-un

Nene-ty-un«e-non

Ne-on

A-way-nah

Ka-qui

Ne-kis-se-wa-sin

Ne-koos-ta-chin

Me-wa-tum

Pa-tura

Wa-ba-tum

Me-a-tum

Goo-chis-tuin

Goo-te-num

Pe-to-ca

Ne-cum-moon

Ta-boi

Ques-qui-su *

Ma-too

Pa-pee

Ma-ca-ta-tum

Tuck-a-shin

Che«boi-ta-ow

Ne-sho-cum-a-win

O -torn -me- wow

Ta-boi-tum

Se-se-quin

No-nu

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.

399

To puke

To carry

I ain cold

To take courage

To dance

To jump

To slide

To run

To walk

To ride (on horse back)

To finish

To starve

To fall

To strike fire

To find

To loose

To paddle

To give

To take

To hate

To keep

To know

To leave

To love

To go to bed

To arise from bed

To sit down

To get up

To marry

To play

To make peace

Pa-cum-moon

Ni-och-e-ga-ow

Ne-cow-a-chin

Ye-ag-wa-me-se

Ne-me-too

Quas-quit-ta

So-squotch-e-wew

Pe-me-pa-tow

Pe-mo-ta-ow

Tay-tup-pew

Po-ne-ton

Ka-wa-cut-tis-so-wock

Punk-a-sin

Se-ka-ta-ow

Mis-cuni

Won-e-ton

Pim-is-cow

Me-yow

0-te-nah

Much-a-ye-mow

Kun-ne-wa-e-ten

Kis-kae-ta-gwun

Nuck-a-tum

Sa-ke-how

Ka-wish-e-mo

0-nis-caw

Ap-pee

Pus-se-co

Wee-ke-mow

Ma-te-way

We-tus-ke-to-wuck

I-' i'

>_.^U( ^

400

SPECIMEN OP THE CREE

"■•Si
['ilk '•>?'

; !

.-j!1

To make war
To pray
To take notice
To respect
To sail
To steal
To sleep
To talk ,
To lie
Togo
To lend
To groan
To beat
To cut
To cover
To dispute
To give
To do
To tie
To unite
To sew
To sit down
To fall
To work
To till
To sell
To come
Always
Because
By and bye
Doubtless

Na-to-py-e-wuck

I-ye-nie-how

Cun-ne-w&-bum

Ke-tay-e-mow

A-cus-iiui-moon

Ke-mo-tu

Ne-pow

A-c he-moon ,

Ke-as-ku

Ke-to-fain

Ow-we-hin

Ma-ma-pin-ow

0-tom-me-wew

Kis-ke-sah

A-quoon e-hah

Ke-ka-to-wuck

May-gu

Go-she-hah

Tuck-oop-e-tah

Ap-pu-co-nah

Kus-ke-qua-so

Up-pu

Pun-ga'sin

0-se-che-ga-ow

Ne-pahow

Ut-ta-wa-ow

Us-tom-e-tay

Ka >ke-ca

A-o-co-chee

Pitch-isqua

Mos-kootch

I -iftt

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.

401

Formerly

Gy-ass

Here

Otaw

How

Ta-ne-say

How many

Ta-ne-tut-to

Immediately

Ka-qui-ah-ho

Lately

Gy-ass«an-e-watch

Never

Na-mow-we-katch

Na-maw

Yes

Ah-hah

Not yet

Na-mas-qua

Not at all

Na-maw-waw-wSltch

Good for nothing

Na-maw-ca-qui-me-wa-sin

There

A-quo-tah

Truly

Ta-boi

Together

Ta-bis-cootch

Where

Ta-ne-tay

Yet

Kaa-bitch

Ah!

Now and then )

Sometimes >

I-os-cow

Seldom )

Thank you

We-na-cum:m2l

What is that ?

. Ka-qui-o-ko

What now ?

Ta-ne-me-ne-kick

Who is there ?

A-way-na-nah

Get out of the way

A-wis-se-tay

What is your name ?

Ta-ne-tick-o-way-on

Where are you going ?

Ta-ne-la ke-weto-tain

I wish to depart

Ne-we-ke-won ,

What do I hear ?

Ka-qui-ka-pa-tum-mon

Will you trade ?

Ke-we-ut-la-woo-chee '-i

"... _ y.' ';i^'

,(■..,

'>'■' n]

NUMERICAL TERMS

OF THE CREES OR KNISTENEUX,

I .'Mi

One
Two

Thre€

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eleven (and one mofe)

Twelve

Thirteen

Fourteen

Fifteen

Sixteen

Seventeen

Eighteen

Nineteen

Twenty

Twenty one

Pa-uck

Ne-sho

Nish-to

Nay-o

Nay-ah-nun

Ni-co-twa-sick

Ta-boo-coop

T-a-na-na-on

Ka-gate me-ta-tut

Me-la-tut

Me-ta-tut pa-uck o sawp

Me-ta-tut ne-sho sawp

Me-ta-tut nish-to sawp

Me-ta-tut nay-o sawp

Me-ta-tut nay-ah-nun o sawp

Me-ta-tut ne-co-twa-sick o sawp

Me-ta-tut ta-boo-coop tah-to sawp

Me-ta-tut i-a-nai-na-ow tah-to sawp

Ka-gate me-ta-tut tah-to sawp

Ne-sit-te-no

Ne-sit-te-no pu-uck o sawp

NUMERICAL TERM&

403

Twenty two &c.

Thirty

Forty

Fifty

Sixty

Seventy

Eighty

Ninety

Hundred

One thousand

Nc-sit-te-no ne-sho sawp
Nish-to mit-te-no
Nay-o mit-te-no ^ ■

Nay-ah-nun o mit-te-no
Ne-co-twa-sick o tut-to mit-te-no
Ta-boo-coop o tut-to mit-te-no
I-a-na-na-ow o tut-to mit-te-no
Ka-gate me-ta-tut o mit-te-no
Me-ta-tut-to mit-te-no
Me-ta-tut tut-to mit-te-no

,^' t

I u".

A SPECIMEN OF

THE TACULLY OR CARRIER TONGUE.

Man

Ten-nee

Woman

Cha-ca

Young maa

Chilk

Infant

Chu-tun

Head

Pit-sa

Eyes

O-now

Hair

Ote-zega

Nose

Pa-nin-chis

Teeth

Oh-goo

Tongue

Tsoo-ll

■:_v.-i;

n.,

I^V'

ii. ''•

■11

404

SPECIMEN OF THE TACULLY

.f ■'■^'

' ' -I

Ears

0-cho

Hands

o-ia

Belly

0-put

Legs

0-ca-chin

Knees

kale

Feet

Oca

Nails

E-Ia-ki

Grand father

Ut-che-yan

Grand mother

Ut-soo

Father

Appa

Mother

Un-nung-coo

Son

E-yaze

Daughter

E-a-cha

Brother

EchiU

Sister

E-taze

Nephew-

Quaze

Grand child

E-chi

Husband

E-ki

Wife

Ay-eye ^

Aunt

A-ki

Old man

O-yun

Blood

Sko

Path or road

Tee

Chief

Me-u-tee

Excrement

Chou

Urine

Al-luze

Coat

Chute

Breech cloth

Chon

Leggins

Ca-chy

Shoes

Kis-coot

Hat or cap

Tcha

.^4ik

OR CARRIER TONGUE.

405

Handkerchief

Za-zo

Mittens

Pat

Petticoat

Cha-ca-chute

Bracelet

Nal-ton

Comb

Chil-cho

Ring

Ne-ia-ta-ah

Needle

A-a-bate-so

Scissors

Clay-yee

Blanket

A-a-pi

Frock or robe

Nal-tay

Goat or sheep

Spye

Ferret

Nah-pye

Moose

Ten-nee

Cariboo

0-chee

Beaver

Cha

Otter

A-bay

Hare

Kah

Martin

Chin-nee

Bear

Suss '

Lynx

Was-say

Porcupine

Cho

Musk rat

Cha-kate

Fisher

Chin-ne-cho

Mouse

Ten-ne-tay

Meat or flesh

Ut-son

Dog

Cling

Bitch

Clee-chay

Crow

Tate-sun

Swan

Chin-cho

Outard

Hok

Partridge

Teel

' !

! ,r

406

SPECIMEN OP THE TACULLT

1^:

i::

U \

■M:

Water hen

Chel

Eggs

O-ga^e

Loon

Tad-joy

Sturgeon

Clay-cho

White fish

Clo

Fish (in general)

C loo -lay .

Fish roes

0-koon

Trout

Pilt

Salmon

Tai-loo

Fire* steel

Kone

Wood or tree

Tuch-in

Dagger

Fa-she-al

Bow

Al-tung

Arrow-

Axe

Cha-chill

Net

Clim-pelt

Paddle

Chell

Canoe (bark)

Al-la-chee ,

Canoe (wooden)

Tuch-in'chee

Touch wood

Ke!-cha

Gun flint

Sa-zo-en

Grass or hay

Clo

Whortloberriejj

Chil-cho

Ashes

Clees

Fire

Kone

Winter

Yas-ca

Autumn

Ta-ca-ta

Summer >

Ole-ol-ta

Sun

Moon (night sun)

Cha-ol-cus sll

Stars

Clum

OR CARRIETl TQIVGUE.

407

Thunder

Date-nee

Day

Ja-ness

Rain

Na-ol-ton

Snow

Na-chaz»

Night .

Al-cheese ! {

Morning

Pun-e-la

Sun setting

Na-ah

Fee

Clum or Ton

Water

Too

World

Ton-ate-suck

Mountain

Chell

Sea

E-a-pack '

Earth

Ote-luss

Heat

0-zell

Tomorrow

Pun-tay

Yesterday

. Hul-ta

Today

• Un-tit

Broth

Ta-zell

Grease

Kane-loo

Sinews

Tsay

Tent or lodge

Yah

Bed

Kus-tee

Door

Ta-tee

Dish

Tsi

Kettle

O-sa

Spoon or ladle

Chin-ne-sko

Knife

Cles-tay

Sack or bag

Aze-la

Trunk or box

Chin-kale

Chimney

Pa-kone-tas-kone

Fort or house

Yock

li^^

f:^'

::>: ■'

1- 1 1

,;i'

408

SPECIMEN OP THE TACULLY

U •

1^.

i ' ■

m If

4 ■

V ■^ '

Sledge

Sclu-sa

Cincture or belt

Say

Socks

Ca-tell '

Cloth

Tell-kuz-za

Thread

A-a-bate-say

Garters

Chal-chase

Medicine

You

Portage sling

Ka-nal-ta

Powder

Al-la-cha

Balls

Ca-tee

Shot

No-do-tone

Powder horn

Da-ka

Shot bag

No-do-to-bost-la

Gun

Al-tee

Gun case

Al-tee-zus

Steel trap

Cha-co

Stench

lU-chun

Skin

0-zuss

Melancholy

Cho-let-nee

Spirits

Kone-too

Breasts

Tsoo

Flour or bread

Clays

Vegetables

Hon-elt-ya

Heart

0-gee

Entrails

At-zee

Home

E-yok

Iron

Cles-tay

Letter or book

Dush-lush

Lover

Na-lio-hul-ya

Pipe

Da-kate-say

Tobacco

Da-ka

OR CARRIER TONGUE.

409

Orphan

Till-in-yaze

Ship

Chee-cho

Stone

Tsay

Gooseberries

Ton-gueese

Strawberries

In-gee

White earth

Clis-paw

Windy

Days-chee

White

Yell

Red

Ten-il-cun

Black

Tel-kuz-zay

Yellow

Dat-leese

Ugly

Ne-chay

Handsome

Ne-zo

Deaf

Ot-so-hoo-lah

Pregnant

El-chon

Short

En-took

Long

En-yea ■'.e

Strong

Na-chet

Weak

At-too-na-chet

Heavy

Na-kull

Foolish

Wos-se-nay

Sensible

Ho-na

Sick

. Tut-tay

Dead

Tas-si

Alive

An-na

Miserable

TiMen

All

Tche-ow

Drunken

Too-nis-to

French

Ned-do

Distant

Nee-zolt

Nigh

Nill-took

'^l

if'

1 W'

410

SPECIMEN OP THE TACULLY

I ' >.

t'^-'l."

Few or little

Shameful

Fnli

Good

Bad

Avaricious

Much

Quick

Deep

Shallow

I am angry
To hear
To see
To smell
To feel .
To eat
To drink
To sing
To halloo
To whistle
To weep
To laugh
To arrive
To depart
Assist me
To beat
To suck
To be cold
To dance
To walk
It is done

En-soole

Clou-cha

Dees-pun

Oo-choh

Ni-ka-tel

Kane-chee

Clyne

Ut-oho-in-tin

Ta-kull

Toohoos-ka

Son-e-chee

At-tade-zuck

Nee-tlen

In-chis

Oan-ton

A-al

Ate-ni

Ut-chiii

Ca-an-ni

Yool

A-chuck

At-lo

Natell

Ni-ne-tell

Sly-en e lay

Chil-tul-ta

El-took

Na-zes-lay

Nate-tah
Ni-yah

A-chel-isl-la

OR CARRIER TONGUE.

411

To starve
To fall
I will go
Come with me
To give
To take
To hate
I do not know-
To keep
To know
To love
To lie down
To arise from bed
To sit down
To be merry
To paddle
To steal

To sleep ^:

Go away
To talk
To lie
That
My own
Your own
Our own
I or me
Thou or thee
We
Above
Because
Bye and bye

Ne-cho-al-hoo-lah

Nal-chet

O-che-to-se-ah

An-nee

Won-nel-lay

Ill-shute

O-cha-dus-se-ne

Tuch-a-hoo-ny

Hone-lay

At-dy e-tay

Qui -see or Kar,e-chee

Sin-tee

Ta-dern-yal '

Sin :avv

Ous-ta

Atto

Way-to

Na-mis-tee

Us-se

Yal-tuck

On-chit

Intee

Se-ilt-sun

Ne-ne-ilt sun

Wa-ne-jlt-sun

Ne or Ye

Wa ne K

Ya-took

A-doo-aw

Kud-dah

(I- f -'-I

IV '

ifi

412

SPECIMEN OP THE CARRIER TONGUE.

''ir^..

Enough

Formerly

Here

How

How many

Immediately

Yes , .' '^

Not yet

There

Truly ,

Too little

Too much

Where

Yet

1 thank you

What is that ?

What is the matter ?

Who is there ?

What is your name ?

Where are you going?

Let us depart

Will you trade ?

Whence are you

Coo-la or Ate-sel

ui-ia

Ne-chan

Tuch-ah

Ta-nil-suck

An-tit

Own-too

Ah-ah or A-ma

K«tch'ah-own-too

En-chan

Al-late-ne

Slan-SDol

Stan-clyne

En-chay

Ka-cba

Se-na-chai-le-ah

Tee

Ta-how-chS.

Te-ween-tal

Ba-zee

Ne-cha-en-e-gal

Na-zo-tell

Ba-che-o-kate

Ne-cha-si-il-tal

I'd"'

i>t '

TH£

NUMERICAL TERMS

OF THE TACULLIES.

'\ \M

One

Clot-tay

Two

Nong-ki

1 ■■ iifc <■«

Three

Toy - '

Four

Ting-kay

Five

Skoon-e-ly

Six

Al-ke-tate

1 ■ .

Seven

Te-kal-ti *

Eight

Al-ke-tin-ga

11-

Nine

Cio-hoo-Iy

Ten

Lan-ne-zy

Eleven

0-un-na Clot-tay

Twelve

0-un-na Nong-ki

■

&c. to ^ '

Twenty

Not-won-ne-zy

t' ;

Twenty one

Nol-won-ne-zy 0-at Clo

!i|f

Twenty two

Not-won-ne-zy '0-at Nong-ki

&:c. to

'•- '''il

Thirty

Tat-won-ne-zy-ah

■ I

Forty

Tit-won-ne-zy-ah

' ^

Fifty ^

Skoo-nee-lot-wr i-ne-zy

Sijtty

Al-ke-tate- won-ne-zy

Seventy

Tee-kal-ty-o tate-won-nc-zy

Eighty

Al-ke-ting-o-lale- won-ne-zy

Ninety

Clo-hoo-ly-o tate-v\'on-ne-zy

/ 1

Hundred

Na-ne-zy-o-ne-zc-ah

Thousand

Lan-ne-zy-o-lan-ne-zy-O'lan-ezy

1 t

A CONCISE ACCOUNT OF

THE PRINCIPAL ANIMALS

WHICH ARE FOUND IN THE NORTH WESTERN PART OP

NORTH AMERICA.

Buffaloes are found in great numbers, in all
the plain or prairie countries, on both sides of
the Rocky Mountain, as far north as about lati-
tude fifty six or seven. The bull is larger than
an ox, has short black horns, and a beard under
his chin ; and his head is filled with a long, fine
hair, which falls over his eyes, and gives him a
frightful aspect. On his back is a bunch or excres-
cence, commencing a little forward of his haunch-
es, the highest part of which, is over his shoul-
ders, and which terminates at the neck. His
ivhole body is covered with a long hair or wool,
of a dark brown colour, the whole of which,
and particularly that which is on the fore
part of the body, would answer well for man-
ufacturing coarse cloths and blankets. The
head of the buffaloe is larger than that of a
bull, his neck is short, his breast is broad ; and
his body decreases towards the buttocks. He
will generally flee, at the approach of a man, ex-

T«Hm

■ *

416

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

11 ^

i.^

^Hl

cepting the male, at the rutting season, when he
becomes ferocious.

The flesh of the buffaloe is excellent food;
the hide is applied to many important uses ; and
the long soft hair, the natives put into their shoes,
about their feet, which supplies the -place of
sociis ; and it is fully as warm. The speed of the
buffaloe, is much the same as that of an ox ; -and
vhen he runs he inclines his fore feet considera-
bly on one side of his body, for a short distance,
and then shifts them upon the other, and contin-
ues thus, alternately to change them. -

Those that remain in the country between
the Sisiscatchvvin and Peace rivers, are called the
wood buffaloes, because they inhabit a woody
country ; and they are considerably smaller than
those, which inhabit the plains. They are, also,
more wild and difficult to approach.

The horses, which the Indians possess, came
originally from Mexico, and arc of the Spanish
breed. They are in general stout, and well built ;
and many of them are of great speed. They are
very serviceable to the Natives in the plain coun-
tries, are used to transport their property from
place to place ; and on them they run down and
kill their game. These animals will subsist, dur-
ing the winter months, on the grass which they
find under the snow, which is seldom more than
six inches deep, on the plains. There are but

■\* -*."^*.i

ACCOUNT OF A.flMALS.

417

few horses to be found, farther north than latitude
fifty four or five.

There arc three kinds of bears, the grey, the
brown or chocolate coloured, and those which
are perfectly black. The grey bears, which are
by far the largest, are about the size of a common
cow ; and are remarkably strong built, and very
ferocious. They at-tack human beings, ab well
as all kinds of beasts, that fall in their way ; and
in their terrible paws, the resistance, even of the
male buffaloe, weighing fourteen or fifteen hun-
dred pounds, is utterly vain. Three or four of
the Natives join together whenever they attempt
to hunt them, and each man is well armed, with
u musket and a long spear.

The grey bears differ but little in shape, from
those of a smaller kind and of a different colour.
Their heads are rather shorter, in proportion to
their bodies, their noses are less pointed ; and
they are more stoutly built. Their colour is a
beautiful lively silver grey. Their flesh has not
60 good a flavour as that of the black bear, it
being more rank. The natives, formerly, mado
use of their skins for beds ; but now, they always
exchange them with us, for blankets, &c.

The grey, in common with the other kinds of
bears, pass the winter months, without taking any
kind of nourishment. Their retreats are by the
sides of the roots of large trees,, that h9 ^e fallen

■»«■*■(■

418

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

\ -ilS. I

.i«<

i I

down, or in the caverns of rocks ; and in some in-
stances they dig holes, in the sides of hills. These
habitations arc enclosed on every side, with the
branches of trees, filled in with moss, &lc. so as
completely to surround the animal, excepting his
nose, where a small hole is le"', to enable him to
breathe fresh air. They leave these retreats, as
soon as the warm weather comes on in the spring,
when they are apparently as fat, as they were
when they entered them, in the preceding autumn.
This flesh has less substance, probably, as
they loose most of it, soon after their egress ;
though they then devour, with an appetite ren-
dered strong by a winter's abstinence, whatever
comes in their way. Their food, however, at this
season, is not so abundant as it is afterwards, as
they generally live upon roots, and the diiferent
kinds of fruit. They eat, likewise, ants and honey,
whenever they meet with that which is made by
bees and wasps. They rarely eat animal food.

The brown and black bear diiFer little, except-
ing in their colour. The hair of the former, is
much finer than that of the latter. They usually
flee from a human being. One, however, that
has been wounded, or a female that has cubs, will
attack a pursuer. The brown and the black bear,
climb trees, which the grey, never does. Their
flesh is not considered so pleasant food as that of
the moose, baffaloe or deer ; but their oil is high-

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

419

ly valued by the Natives, as it constitutes an arti-
cle at their feasts, and serves, also, to oil their
bodies, and other things. Occasionally, a bear is
found, the colour of which is like that of a white

eep.

and the hai

;h I

le nair is mucn longer than that of
the other kinds which have been mentioned ;
though, in other respects, it differs not at all from
the black bears.

There are two kinds of wolves, one of which
is rather larger than a stout dog, and the other is
not more than half as large. Their legs are long,
in proportion to thf^ir slander bodies. Their
heads, also, are long ; and their noses are sharply
pointed. Their tails are long and bushy. The
colour of the larger kind, is generally a light grey ;
but some of them, are nearly white. The small-
er kind are commonly a silver grey ; but some of
them are nearly black. They are all very vora-
cious ; but they never attack a human being; un-
less when suffering greatly from hunger. They
display great ingenuity and cunning ; generally,
herd together, especially in the winter season ;
and make a hideous noise, particularly when thir-
ty or forty of them are employed in surrounding a
herd of the buffaloe or deer, in order to drive
them down a precipice. They frequently take
this method to make these animals their prey ;
and, in order to carry a project of this kind into
execution, they form lines, by separating to a cer-

lit-

iJk

420

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

tain distance from each other, and frequently
make noises, resembling the human voice ; and
they appear to act in concert, as regularly as the
Indians themselves do, when they drive the buffa-
loes into their yards.

The wolves know the effects of a discharge
of a musket ; and when a hunter fires his ^un, at
a buffaloe or deer, in a few minutes, from ten io
tweniy of them will rush to the spot whence the
report proceeded ; and, at some times, they are
so pinched with hunger, that while standing be-
side his game, it is with difficulty that the hunter
preserves it from being devoured by them.

There are three sorts of foxes, which, howev-
er, differ only in their colour. The most common
are of a yellowish red, some are of a beautiful sil-^
vergrey, and some in the more northern latitudes,
are almost black. The last, are by far tho most
valuable.

The Indians have several kinds of dogs. Those
which they make use of in hunting, are small, their
ears stand erect: and thev are remarkable for
their fidelity to their masters. — They now have a
large breed among them, which were brought in-
to their country from Newfoundland, by the En-
glish, when they first established themselves on
Hudson's Bay ; and from that place they have been
spread into every part of the country, east of the
Rocky Mountain. They are used only as beasts

■A . ^t'

i'M

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.

421

of burthen. In the summer season, they carry
loads upon their backs; and in the winter Srvhen
there is snow, they draw them upon sledges.
These sledges are made of two thin boards, turn-
ed up at the fore end, and joined closely together,
so that this vehicle is twelve or fourteen inches
broad, and seven or eight (eet in length. The
collar, by which the dog& draw, is much like that
with which a horse is usually harnessed, in the
civilized parts of the country. Their weight is,
generally, from sixty, to one hundred pounds.

The cat or lynx, in its shape and nature re-
sembles the domestic cat ; but it is much larger,
it has long legs, and a long body ; but a very
short tail. Its hair is exceedingly fine, considera-
bly long, and of a lively and beautiful, silver grey
colour. When full grown, the cat will weigh thir-
ty five or forty pounds ; and when fat they are
excellent food. They generally live on mice, the
dead fish which they find along the rivers and
lakes, and partridges and hares. In taking their
prey, they manifest all the adroitness and activity
of the domestic cat. In some years, these ani-
mals are very numerous; and, frequently, the fol-
lowing year, very few can be found.

There are two species of the deer. One of
these, denominated the jumping deer, is like those
which are found in the northern parts of the Unit-
ed States; and none of them are found farther

"W^

422

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

I!' If

north than about latitude 48° or 50°. The other
kind is sometimes called the red deer or the elk.
They are about the size of a horse ; and their
bodies, are shaped like those of the jumping deer.
Their tails are remarkably short, being not more
than three inches long. Their hair, which is
three inches in length, is of a light grey colour,
and is as coarse as that of the horse. The horns
of these animals grow to a prodigious size, (heir
extreme points are about six (eet asunder; and
they branch out before and behind, like those of
the common deer. Their bodies are well pro-
portioned, their air is noble ; and, on the whole,
they are the most majcstick animal, that I have
ever seen. They shed their horns, in the month
of February or March ; and by August, the new
ones are nearly at their full growth. Notwith-
standing the size and strength of these animals,
and the means of defence with which they are
furnished, they are as timorous as a hare. Their
skins are very useful, and will dress as well as
that of a buck. They feed on grass and buds,
and the twigs of trees. Their ilesh is tender, and
of a fine flavour.

The moose is, in size, next to the buffaloe,
among the animals of the North West. The
body is in shape, somewhat like that of an ox,
raw boned, with high haunches ; but its neck and
head resemble those of a horse. The ears are

ACCOUNT or ANIMALS.

423

large, like those of an ass. The horns are flat,
and branch out onl) behind ; and are shed every
year. The feet resemble those of the deer, ex-
cepting as they are much longer and broader ;
and when it puts them on the ground, the hoofs
separate, two or three inches. The head is about
two feet long. The upper is much longer than
the under lip of this animal ; and the nostrils are
so wide, that a man might thrust his hand into
them, to a considerable distance. The colour of
the moose is a light grey, mixed with a deep red,
and the hair is so elastic, that its shape cannot be
altered by beating. The flesh of this animal is
exceedingly good food, it being easy of digestion,
and very nourishing, as Avell as very palatable.
The nose and the upper lip, which is large, and
loose from the gums, are esteemed a great delica-
cy ; it is of a consi&ttijce between marrow and
gristle, and when properly dressed, it is a rich and
lK«Kurious dish. The hide of this animal makes
excellent leather, as it is Uiick and strong ; and
when dressed it is soft ana pliable. The pace of
of the moose, is a walk or trot ; and it is exceed-
ed in swiftn^^ss, by few of its fellow tenants of the
forest. It will, with ease, trot over a fallen tree,
of five feet in diameter. This animal is common-
ly found in low grounds, where it feeds on moss,
and the buds of trees. The moose, generally, I'e-
Hiains alone : though at sometimes five or six of

^P-.^

I 'a

424

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

them are found together. Their senses of hearing
and srnellin<^ are uncommonly acute; and, there-
fore the least noise made by a hunter, such as the
rustlin2^ of dry leaves, or the breaking of a small
branch, will be heard by this animal, at a great
distance, and will alarm its fears. When put to
flight, the moose does not like the deer and most
o,ther animals, run a little distance, and then stop,
until a new appearance of danger ; but, oftentimes,
he vill not make the least halt, until he has run
te ^ or fifteen miles. No other animal that runs
in the wojods, is so difficult of approach.

There arc two kinds of the cariboo. The only
difference between them is, that the one is about
twice as large as the other, and the hair of the
smaller, is of a much lighter colour. The larger,
will weigh nearly as much as the elk ; but, in
shape and the colour of the hair, it more nearly
resembles the moose ; and like this animal it feeds
only on moss, and the buds of trees. The horns
are round, like those of the elk ; but they approach
nearer to each other, at the extremities, and bend
more over the face, than those of either the
moose or the elk. The gait of this animal is
much the same as that of the moose, and it is
almost as difficult of approach.

The flesh is equally ijood for food ; and the
tongue, particularly, the Natives consider as one
of the greatest dainties, which their country £^f-

^ . *!:.-

ACCOUNT OF ANI-MALS.

425

fords. The skin, being smooth and free from
veins, makes the finest of leather ; and of it, ex-
cellent leggins and shirts are made. The Indians
attach great value also to the dung of the cari-
boo, of which they make, what they consider, a de-
licious broth. They make use of the lower bone
of the leg of this animal, in the place of a tanner's
scraping knife, to separate the hair from skins.

There are two kinds of the antelope, which dif-
fer only in size, and in the colour of their tails, which
are about two inches long. The colour of these an-
imals is a light grey or mouse colour, with here and
there a spot of white. The tail of the larger, is of
the same colour as the body, while that of the small-
er, is white. The larger, is about the size of the
jumping deer, which animal it, also, very much re-
sembles, in shape. The smaller, will weigh about as
much as a sheep ; and the flesh resembles mutton,
in its taste. These animals herd together, like the
deer, and always remain in an open country ; and
their speed is little inferiour to that of the. horse.
They are very timorous, and as soon as they perceive
a human being, they run off to a considerable dis-
tance, but soon make a halt ; and, if the person
hides himself, they will soon return, near to the
spot where they had seen the object which alarm-
ed them. It is thus that the Natives manage, in
hunting them. Their skin is thin, and will dress
equally well with that of the chamois ; and the

I I immm -'

426

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

K €

;^1

\'t

leather is very suitable for leggins and shirts for
the Natives, during the summer months. The
males have horns, resembling those of the deer,-
excepting that they are smaller.

The carcajou or wolverine, in shape and the
colour of the hair, greatly resembles the skunk :
but it is nearly twice as large. The hair of the
carcajou is about the same length as that of a
bear : and its colour is black, excepting a nar-
row strip of white, on the rump. The tail is
about six inches long, and is very bushy. This
animal is remarkably strong built, for its size :
and IS extremely voracious. He feeds on dead
fish, which he finds along the shores of the riv-
ers and lakes : and on mice, hares, &c. He is
often found about the places where human be-
ings have been interred ; and, if they have not
been buried deep in the earth, he will take them
up, and feed on their carcases. On this account,
the Natives never feed on the flesh of this ani-
mrfl, though it has an excellent flavour. When
he falls upon a large animal, that has been kill-
ed and cut up and left by a hunter, he will,
within a very short time, remove the whole of
it to a considerable distance, and strive to hide
it under grass, or the branches of trees.

The skunk differs not at all from the same ani-
mal, as it is found in most parts.of the United States ^
and it is too well known to need a description.

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.

427

The porcupine, in shape, and size, differs
but httle from the skunk. Its tail is much short-
er, and has little hair on it. The body is cover-
ed with hair of a dark brown colour, about four
inches in length. This hair is interspersed with
quills, about the size of a straw, that are white,
with black ends, sharply pointed : and for about
half an inch from the end, they are covered with
a kind of beard, which renders it very difficult
to extract them from any soft substance which
they have entered. These quills are merely de-
fensive wreapons : for it is not true, though it has
by some been asserted, that they can, at pleas-
ure, eject them from their bodies. They are an
inoffensive animal, move but slowly ; and when
overtaken by man or beast, they place their
head and their legs under their bodies, and place
all their reliance on their quills, for protection.
The Indian women highly value these quills,
which they die of different colours, and use for
garnishing their shoes, leggins, &,c. They *also
hold their flesh in high estimation, as an arti-
cle of food.

There is a small animal, found only on the
Rocky Mountain, denominated, by the Natives,
Quis-qui-su, or whistlers, from the noise which
they frequently make, and always when surpris-
ed, strongly resembling the noise made by a per-

WW W -f IIP H

••^■«Kl»

428

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

#fM

mii

k i

son in whistling. They are about the size of a
badger, are covered with a beautiful long silver
grey hair, and have long bushy tails. They bur-
row in the sides of the mountain, and feed on
roots and herbs. Their flesh is yery delicious
food. They generally produce two young at a
time ; and sit upon their hind (eet when they
give them suck. The skins of these animals are
very useful to the Natives, for clothing. They
dress them, with the hair on; and sew a sufli-
cient number of them together, to make a gar-
ment, as large as a blanket, which they wrap
around their bodies.

The racoon is an animal never found farther
north, than about latitude forty eight. It is con-
siderably smaller than a beaver, with legs and
feet resembling this animal. The legs are short
in proportion to the body, which is like that of a
badger. It has a head like that of a fox ; but
with ears shorter, rounder, and more naked. The
hair is thick, long, soft and black at the ends, like
that of a fox. On the face there is a broad stripe,
that runs across it, which includes the eyes, which
are large. The tail is long and round, with annu-
lar stripes upon it, like those of a cat. The feet
have five slender toes, armed with sharp claws,
by which it is enabled to climb trees. It feeds
itself with its fore feet, as with hands. The flesh

i '^A

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

429

of this animal is very good, in the months of Sep-
tember and October, when fruit and nuts, on which
it likes to feed, are found in plenty.

The martin is some larger than a squirrel,
which it resembles in shape, excepting that its
legs and claws are considerably shorter. In the
darkness of the night, the eyes have a shining
appearance, like those of a cat. It has short
ears, which are of a roundish shape. The whole
body is covered with a thick fur, which in a
mild climate, is of a yellowish colour ; but in
the colder regions of the north, it becomes of
a dark brown, and, in some instances, is nearly
black. The skins, which have this dark colour-
ed fur, are much more valuable than the oth-
ers. The tail is covered with long hair ; and
under the neck, even of those of the darkest
colour, there is a small spot, of a yellowish cast.
The flesh of this animal has a rank, disagreea-
ble taste ; and is, therefore seldom eaten.

The niuskrat, which receives its name from
the musk that it affords, resembles the beaver,
in every respect excepting its size, which is lit-
tle larger than the badger. It builds for itself
a cabin in marshy places, at no great distance
from some water : and feeds on roots, herbs,
mice and fish, which it finds dead, on the mar-
gin of lakes and streams. In the spring, these
animals leave their huts, as they arc built in

430

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

' ' <5

places so low, that they are generally, at that
season, overflowed by water. During tlie sum-
mer months, they have no fixed residenco : but
are found in different places, among the grass.
As the winter approaches, they erect new huts,
in which they pass the winter. Carver is surely
mistaken when he states, that they winter in hol-
low trees, without any sustenance, and that, in
the summer, they feed on raspberries, strawber-
ries and other kinds of fruit.

In the North West country, there are only three
kinds of squirrels, which are the red, the striped
and the flying. The black and grey squirrel, sel-
dom go farther north, than latitude forty five
or six.

The beaver has been so frequently and so mi-
nutely described, and his sagacity, ingenuity and in-
dustry are so well known, that a very particular ac-
count of this animal, in this place, would be super-
fluous. As some other animals, in the foregoing
description, have been compared with the beaver,
it may be necessary to state, that his weight is
usually about sixty pounds : that his body is about
four feet in length, and that his legs are short,
particularly his fore-legs, which are not more than
four or five inches in length. His fore feet are
armed vnth ciaws, and his hind (eet are furnish-
ed with a web or membrane between the toes,
for the convenience of swimming, as he is an amphi-

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

431

that
sum-
: but

.JU

bious animal. His fore-teeth stand obliquely,
projecting forward out of his mouth, and> are
broad, crooked and sharp. His incisors, or side
teeth, are firmly set and sharp, and his grinders
are very strong. By means of these teeth, he is
able to cut down considerable trees, and to
break the hardest substances. The ordinary
colour of the beaver is brownj which becomes
darker in the northern, and lighter in the more
southern latitudes. The number of beavers in
the North West country, is continually diminish-
ing. The skins of this animal constitute, with the
Natives, the principal article of trade j and the
price of other things is computed, by comparing
them with a beaver skin. '

The otter is an amphibious animal, bearing
some resemblance to the beaver, and yet in many
respects, differing from it. His body is, in every
part, less than that of the beaver, though it is
nearly as long. His teeth are different, being in
shape like those of a dog or wolf. The hair
of the otter is not more than half the leng^th of
the beaver ; and in some parts particularly un-
der the neck, stomach and belly, is more greyish.
This animal, when closely pursued, will not only
defend himself; but he will attack dogs and even
men. His food consists of roots and fish ; and
his flesh tastes and smells of the latter, and is not
very palatable food.

'^iitliiiiWi'

m-^'^m!'

432

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.

. The mink is of the otter kind, and subsists
on sinriilar food, and resembles this animal in its
colour. In shape and size, it bears a strong re-
semblance to the martin *, but its hair is much
shorter. A musky scent proceeds from this ani-
mal. It is generally found along small rivers.

The following catalogue of animals, will ex-
hibit the comparative value of the furs, which
are annually purchased and exported to the civ-
ilized parts of the world, by the North West Com-
pany, The animal is first mentioned, the skins of
which will amount to the greatest sum ; and so on,
in order, to the last, the skins of which, will
amount to the smallest sum. — Beaver, otter, musk-
rat, martin, bear, fox, lynx, fisher, mink, wolf, buf-
faloe.

The following catalogue will exhibit the com-
parative weight of the skins, of the different an-
imals, which are annually purchased and export-
ed, as above mentioned. — Beaver, martin, musk-
rat, bear, otter, wolf, buffaloe, lynx, &c.

END.

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