IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 S la iio 1.8 U il.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 872-4.'S03 ''/. /. ^j :/. m. u. ^\^ iV >c^ ^x ^^^ 1, V ^,fcV-*-»>- • ■fC-t; 'ii-if^ i *" :h f ■*•/■■> ^^A r f'feji *4* ■"^^'"i A ■> ^>f /. (•,.-- r,*«Mf JOURNAL April, 1800. Tuesday^ 29. La Chine. Yesterday, I left Montreal, for this place, in company with several other Clerks ; and am on my way to the interiour, or Indian countries, there to remain, if my life should be spared, for seven years, at least. For this space of time I am under an engagement to serve as a clerk to the North West Company, oth- erwise denominated M^Tavish, Frobisher, & Co. The goods intended for the interiour or upper countries, are here put on board of canoes. These canoes which are constructed of the bark of the birch tree, will carry a burden of three and an half or four tons each; and are severally manned by eight or nine Canadians, who are said to man- ? f <\ 1. . . .«?\<» t J^A* jA lOvie "'^lioliTi-acliiui E. >" / y yoTtWine«i P • S^riihuin iiio Jtivf rt«i^ ,7, ^'.vt^ '-r P >• .///] '.fh ypo,/.. SU>n, t^A <7H"*'^ cW» '"■«'/ >%»^ tc**^ ..f ►" Forf v/> \ Ijltltit p'f ,fru &*/'•'•"•' f f*-/'^ «v J^' fllA'*JJ V»!*L ,>>.■/ .J /?•«' \v Itit" -*v>// /, .]■ Bo»v«- V } RapLl ^' ^' ^ .1 i'^"''.. fifikitui I.- f(n»tl»i \^;es:^'-#; ■;l«H y/jtike ''"^'A, V,. ■v. ^^ '•S, JP«"? ^ • \ iH-tft i H' n'in'f xjC u- Sf*^ ;r/( /-'«*• M ,IA JT M r ^J-^ Hull v.>y/;^r :s. '-"»•"■ y^' • >V/yj/' ^J'^ yiBJ^^ \Vt i»' '"Wv "'-'* -f^/Xv ^P"^ Rrdltert t'ciler I'ttlf .V '> iV ■» /*w*^ flml} ,Hf 1'^ ^tt. 1 ( ^ '/^V-i' ^^^^1 I'lWie I, \fhiml\f ' (»((' if/ '- ,!*'• ,ri'/' ^'-Vy '■/'<'/ J jr«»\ /iii**" /;i^>w4 i*/ tJl" L s s £ jsr f" "4.' ''^^ >/>';' ^-fi'/i"^ UK fiVi ,lh Iff" J I « •,T>7. '.«<•" )Y4V»' e<*.l — ^1- l- I 'lb 5f ■iwtf* ,V.J A. MiHHonri Kij^^ r* /••■K. ,V<'' f Pi***"' I'r-'i r'JM (itH>Jr ^J' r ,t^^ "v^* \Atiin4tMt ""-^ iMChl'* M 'I I .'«' ill>»ir v*« "\" .. S \0 1 \ // ir p ■I- ,!,!« iff'*' ^ 3 > ^ t \ ^.ti'' p^ ^w xsa trens pf,lS \y'' Severn H"^-", .>///' J 7f '"1 ri • ii-'tut/tutir,, .^* 1:^ ''fff/.i f„ik' /' c \V«*^ >t>^ '^*/ . ;,-l'<'''' -^'^i '"'••V.w.-'l , X*->' •' \'>ifi "^ i yvi"' '1 i5 *iST& / V wi s^y- ivV' c^• 5,Vo^^ *« \< L"!^ '>i^ ^«»j Hou •■r /■»^^''' M" iW'M .11'' V'^v.. **>«.. ««*] ^tAfa RiW" C'^^. :'±^« Al* •V •"?C ' ■*?%», , ■"^s^ ^^fiit\}f,m^'' UxU 3 , , ^■'^n.<'',jB^^^^^^\^r^A ,>u" 1 1 Ovv tt* .o» ./■i/..f" u^ii^"^'''VF:^/"": > .. w,^ \\' Vt'/.i" sA;»"' \Y L-'J. rt' rr .v' r-^r' /? ,i-\.'5 i »IH 26 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. :i t.l I ^- ^f age them with greater dexterity, than any other people. Wednesday^ 30. Point Claire. Rainy even- ing. For the first time in my life, I am to pass the night in a tent. In the former part of the day, I was employed in marking bales of goods, which are to br sent to the Grand Portage or General Rendezvous. About 12 o'clock, I em- barked on board of one of the canoes, destined for the above mentioned place. The whole squad- ron, which consits of thirty canoes, is divided into three brigades. One or two Guides or Pilots are attached to each brigade. Their business is, to point out the best course up and down the streams and through the lakes, and to take charge of the canoes and property on board. They attend to the repairs of the canoes, which are frequently broken, and have the same com- mand over the men, attached to their respective brigades, as the commander of a vessel has, over the men on board. ^ The Voyagers, as the men are called, have many of the customs of sailors ; and among them the following. By all those on board, who have never passed certain places, they expect to be treated with something to drink; and should a person refuse to comply with their requisitions, he would be sure of being plunged into the water, which they profanely call, baptiz- .:i«" HARMON S JOURNAL. 27 ing liim. To avoid such a disaster, I gave the people of my canoe a few bottles of spirits and porter, by drinking which, they became very mer- ry, and exhibited the reverse of their appearance a few days since, when, with heavy hearts and weeping eyes, they parted from their relations. Shortly after we had pitched our tents, an Irish gentleman, whose house was near the margin of the water, politely invited me to take tea with him. Friday, May 2. Chute au Blondeau. We have a strong head wind. But, since yesterday morning, we have come nearly sixty miles, and have passed two Rapids. At these places, most of the property was taken out of the canoes, and carried across the Portages, on the backs of the people. The young men, who had never been in the Indian countries, now began to regret that they had enlisted into this service, which requires them, as they say, to carry burdens like horses, when, by remaining in their own country, they might have laboured like men. , *%ir.k^ Sunday, 4. The wind has been so high, during the whole of the day, that we could not go upon the water, I have therefore passed the tirpe in reading, and in the society of a fellow-clerk. '.^. Tfiursday, 8. A Chat. We now, for the first time, see Indian huts or tents. Friday, 9. We arrived this morning, at this place, where the North West Company have a small establishment } and I have passed the after- noon, in shooting pigeons. , .» iif! i ^ ^ m * 7* Saturday, 10. Grand Calumet. This Port- age is nearly two miles long ; and over it, the peo- ple carry both the canoes and their loading. Here stands a house, built by those who came here to traffick with the Indians ; but which has been abandoned for several years, as the Indians, who formerly hunted in this vicinity, are now gone Harmon's jqurnal. 29 farther north, where Beaver, &c. are found in greater plenty. Behind this house, I found a small bark canoe, in which I embarked alone, for the purpose of shooting ducks. Having proceeded some distance from the shore, the canoe overset, and I fell, with my gun, into the water. Having my great coat on, it was with no small difficulty that I reached the shore ; and I was happy to es- cape, with the loss of only my gun. Sunday, 11. We are encamped on an Island opposite to Fort Coulonge. Soon after we arriv- ed here, the person who has the establishment in charge, came to invite a fellow-clerk, who trav- els in the same canoe with me, and myself, to sup with him, to which I readily agreed ; but my com- panion chose to remain with the canoes. I was treated with all the politeness of which a Canadi- an is master, which is not a little ; for in this, as well as in many other respects, the Canadians re- semble their ancestors, the French. Monday, 12. We are encamped on a large sand bank. I have had a little conversation with my fellow-traveller, respecting his conduct the last evening, while I was absent. When I departed for the Fort, I gave him the keys of our travelling box and basket, that he might have the means of making a supper ; and on my return, I was not a J it tie surprised at finding not only him, but several of ml 30 HARMON S JOURNAL. I : i iv. the common labourers, much intoxicated. 1 ruprl- manded Mr. P. with considerable severity, to day, and told him, that if I should ever again find him in the like shameful condition, I should be under the disagreeable necessity of informing our em- ployers of his conduct, as soon as we should reach Head-quarters. He promised that he would not again be guilty of such conduct; but I should place more reliance on his promise, had not his mother been a squaw. There seems to be in the blood of an Indian, a kind of predisposition to in- temperance. — Wc barter with the natives, receiv- ing sugar for buscuit, of which, as well as of pork, beef and spirits, they appear to be uncommonly fond. V Tuesday, 13. We are encamped on a rockv bank, where it is impossible to find a smooth place, sufficiently large to pitch a tent ; we are therefore obliged to make our bed between two large rocks, and sleep in the open air. On the north side of the river are mountains, which ap- pear almoct destitute of timber, of any kind. Wednesday, 14- We shall again sleep where we did last night, as the people have been employ- ed, during the whole of the day, in repairing the canoes, which had become leaky. '.^ ■ Thursday, 29. Duncan M^Gilvray, Esq. one of the agents for the North West Company, arriv- ed in the morning, at St. Josephs, from Mackana ; and soon after, we emharked on board of our canoes, to come to this small Island. As the weather is calm, my fellow-traveller and I in- tend sleeping in our canoe ; but the labourers will pass the night on shore. * >- v.,- , ' *.v Friday, 30. Soult St, Maries. Here the North West Company have another establish- ment, on the nortft side of the Rapid ; and on the opposite shore, there are a few Americans, Scotch and Canadians, who carry on a small traf- fic with the Natives, and also till the ground a lit- tle. The soil aboct Lake Huron, which we have just passed, appears to be good, and the face of the country is low and level. — Here the North West Company have built locks, in order to take up loaded canoes, that they may not be under the necessity of carrying them by land, to the head of the Rapid ; for the current is too strong to ie stemmed by any craft. The Company are like- wise building a saw mill, at the foot of the Rapid, to furnish boards, &c. for the Grand Portage, &c. Here is the outlet of Lake Superiour, by which its waters pass into Lake Huron. On each of these r » <" I, !'{ i lj.,1 38 HARMON S JOURNAL. -( lii! f lakes, the North West Company have a vessej. One goes to the Grand Portage, and the other to Detroit, Sic. Saturday, 31. We shall sleep where we did the last night. Several of us have visited the people, who live on the other side of the rapid, where we saw a dance of the Natives, who are Sauteux or Chippeways. Sunday, June, 1. Poinl au Pin, or Pine Point, in Lake Superiour. We here find the vessel that sails from this to the Grand Portage. I went on board, and the Captain informed me, that she would carry about ninety five tons, and that she mJikes four or five trips every season. I left the Soult Sc. Maries, in company with three hundred men, who are in thirty five canoes. Monday, 2. Point aux jfrahles, or Maple Point, We now form four Brigades, in which there are six clerks. ^' '"' ' > ^ i* t^ -^ ...v, Tuesday, 3. A high wind during the whole day. In the morning, we attempted to sail, but soon found we could not, without shipping a great deal of water ; we therefore soon landed again, and r.re encamped, within one hundred rods of the place where we tarried the last night. * (t \» Wednesday, 4. As it has rained and snowed all day, accompanied by a high wind, we have not been able to leave our encampment of the last Harmon's journal. 39 night. Mons. St. Germain, who has the charge of a small Fort, belonging to the North West Company, not far from this, visited us, and brought with him a few necessaries, t. - ** >i«*ii 4i^*itiii j ^" Thursday, 5. Although the swells in the Lake are very high, we have made good prepress, dur- ing the whole day. We are encamped neaT a large rock, on which the Natives, as they pass this way, leave an arrow or two, or some other article of little value to appease the Devil, or Muchamunatoo, as they call him, and prevent him from doing them harm. l^i.^ *. -i ,. > Sunday, 8. In the course of the day, we have passed several islands, which, aa well as the main land, appear to be covered with little else besides moss, with here and there a shrubby spruce. ^ - Monday, 9. In the morning we passed anoth- er Fort, belonging to the North West Company. Tuesday, 10. We are obliged to anchor our canoes by a small island, instead of unloading them^ as is customary every night, for the whole coun- try is on fire ; but whether by accident or design, I am unable to learn. Our people, who pass this way every summer, say that, almost every year, fire runs over this part of the country, which is, of course, nearly destitute of animals, of any kind, Thursday, 12. Sugar Point. Our people say we have sailed ninety miles during the day. 'J h 4 W| ■m 40 Harmon's journal. .i !i! Friday, 13. Grand Portage, where we arriv- ed late this evening. This place lies in the 48th degree of north latitude ; and is said to be nine hundred miles from the Soult St. Maries, and eighteen hundred from Montreal. The Fort, which i^ twenty four rods by thirty, is built on the margin of a bay, at the foot of a hill or moun- tain, jf considerable height. Within the fort, there is a considerable number of dwelling houses, shops and stores, all of which appear to be slight buildings, and designed only for present conven- ience. The houses are surrounded by palisades, which are about eighteen inches in diameter, and are sunk nearly three feet in the ground, and rise about fifteen feet above it. The bay is so shallow that the vessel cannot approach the shore, unless she is almost without lading. There is a conside- rable island, directly opposite to the fort, which shelters the vessel from the winds that blow from the Lake ; and which renders this, a tolerably good harbour. There is also another fort, which stands about two hundred rods from this, belong- ing to the X. Y. Company, under which firm, a number of merchants of Montreal and Quebec, &c. now carry on a trade into this part of the country. It is only three years since they made an establishment here ; and as yet, they have had but little success. ■ t :* - >;. - Wf;^,' -^iiit "frp '% HARMON'S JOURNAL. 41 This is the Head Quarters or General Ren- dezvous, for all who trade in this part of the world ; and therefore, every summer, the greater part of the Proprietors and Clerks, who have spent the winter in the Interiour, come here with the furs which they have been able to collect, during the preceding season. This, as I am told, is about the time when they generally arrive ; and some of them are already here. The people who come from Montreal with the goods, go no farther than this, excepting a few who take those articles to the Rainy Lake, which are intended for Atha- basca, as that place lies at too great a distance from this, to permit people who reside there to come to t'iis place and return, before the winter commences. Those who bring the goods from Montreal, on their return, take down the furs, &;c. from the north, ^m r; „. .v f?/ ^li;*^ j.j cm^O' Excellent fish, I am informed, are taken here. White fish are sometimes speared, which will weigh twenty two pounds. The water in the lake is uncommonly clear. , , - ...w Sunday^ 15. The people here pass the sab- bath, much in the same manner as they do, the other days of the week. The labouring people have been employed, during the day, in making and pressing packs of furs, to be sent to Canada. This appears, not as it should be. to me, who have been 6 " 'W r i 42 HAUMO^ S JOUKNAL. ll tauglit to abstain form labour on the sabbath, and to consider that it should be employed ii a religious manner. The people, however, who have been long in this savage country, have no scruples ot conscience on this subject. ...,v,.,.^ .-. .^ ,, Tuesday, 24. I have, for some days past, been employed, together with several other clerks, in marking packs of furs. Almost every day, for some time past, people have been flocking in from the Interiour, with the returns of the season. Saturday, 28. The last night, a squaw, in a state of intoxication, stabbed her husband, who soon after expired. This afternoon, I went to their tent, where I saw a number of Indians, of ,both sexes, drinking and crying over the corpse, to which they would frequently offer rum, and try to pour it down his throat, supposing him to be as fond of rum when dead, as he was when alive. The Natives of this place are Chippeways. .v . Friday, July 4. In the day time, the Natives were permitted to dance in the fort, and the Com- pany made them a present cf thirty six gallons, of &hrub. In the evening, the gentlemen of tlie place dressed, and we had a famous ball, in the dining room. For musick, we had the bag- pipe, the violin and the flute, which added much to the interest of the occasion. At the ball, there was a number of the ladies of this country ; and Harmon's journal. I was surprised to find that they could conduct with so much propriety, and dance so well, r \ . Sunday, 13. Yesterday, several gentlemen, on their way to their winter quarters, accompani- ed me to Charlotte, at the other end of this Port- age, which is nine miles over. My business was to send oiF a number of canoes, bound for Fort des Prairies. The country between this and Fort Charlotte, is tolerably level ; and the soil appears to be pretty good. "*' > • • .^ ' Tuesday, 15. This morning a number of gen- tlemen, as well as myself, left the Grand Portage, to proceed to winter quarters. I am to accompa- ny John McDonald, Esq. to Fort des Pra^ es. We left fort Charlotte, about 3 o'clock P. M. on board of two canoes, each of which will carry about two tons, and is pushed on by six Canadians. This is a small river ; and we have passed several places, where the men were obliged to carry the lad- ings, a short distance, and in some places, to trans- port the canoes also. r^ y.,^ Wednesday, 16, The long Cherry Portage. In the former part of the day, we crossed small lakes and ponds, connected by several portages, and then came over the height of land. Since passing this, we have descended a small river, which, I am informed, after running through seve- ral lakes, at length discharges itself into Hud- 1 .1 r f i 44 Harmon's journal. son's Bay, in latitude 51° north. At the mouth of this river, the Hudson Bay Company have a fort, which is called Albany Factory. -Friday^ 18. Great Pines. We have this day crossed the Flinty Lake, so na'"ied from the stone?), found on its shore. For some time past, I have had a fit of the ague and fever, every day. It commenced when I was crossing the large Lakes ; and, I am told, that it is seldom that a person is attacked with it, in the region where I now am. ' 'Monday, 21. For the h-it few days, we have been crossing small lakes and ponds, and coming down a small river. The country appears thinly timbered, lies rather^low, and the soil is good. ^ • ^ Tuesday, 22. This evening, there came here three canoes, manned by Iroquois, who are going into the vicinity of the upper Red River, to hunt Beaver, for the North West Company. Some ot them have their families with them. ''^'i' n kiv Thursday, 24. Rainy Lake Fort. This is built about a mile and an half down the river, from the entrance of the Lake, where there is a considerable fall. Here the soil is better than any we have seen, since we left the Ottawa Riv- er. The timber, also, is of a very good size. The Lake and River are said to contain excellent fish, such as sturgeon, white-fish, &c. In the vicin- ity, a considerable quantity of wild rice is gather- 4 '-'( Harmon's journal. 45 B mouth ^e a fort, this day 3 stonefj, I have lav. 1 1 Lakes ; erson is iv am. 'i 7e have coming s thinly 3od. le here 3 going hunt ome 01 his is ^ river, ^ere is r than a Riv- size. jellent 1 vicin- ather- ■■:^ ed, bj the Natives, who are Chippeways. This is thought to be nearly as nourishing as the real rice, and almost as palatable. The kernel of the former, is rather longer than that of the latter, and is of a brownish colour. • •♦t"'*b ^t^ .h^ir//.^^ Friday, 25. In the former part of the day, we overtook several gentlemen, who, like our- selves, are on their way to their winter quarters. This is a beautiful river, and pretty free from rapids. f :*.rii ]f^ vn i iimJW^ ji^'» Jjii; r»n .■*?<• i"^! Saturday, 26. This morning, we met twenty four canoes from Athabasca. They say they suf- fered much for want of food, on their way ; and during four days, ate nothing. We gave them a dram, which made them almost forget their late sufferings. They will arrive at the Rainy Lake, later than usual. c-"^v? s^?/ Tfrvn fi^ >Mt .?> t; .^.M,r. v Monday, 28. We have come down several rapids, at one of which a canoe was broken, the last year, and a man drowned. We are still in the Rainy Lake river, which is about one hundred and twenty miies long, and twelve or fifteen rods broad. The land on each side is low, and is said to be excellent. The timber consists of birch, a species of pine, hemlock, poplar, aspin, cedar, Tuesday, 29. This day we came across the Woody Lake, which is full of islands. It is about 'i s 46 Harmon's journal. thirty six miles in length ; and the soil ahout it is much like that, along the Rainy Lake River. We are now in Winipick River, and have passed a rapid where the last year, three men were drowned. One of our men fired at a black bear, but did not kill him. "'"' ^J ^< i-ft^M Wednesday, 30. Passed a number of miry Portages, and a place where, three years since, the Natives, who are Chippeways, fired upon our people, but without killing any of them. One of the Indians was taken, with the intention of carry- ing him to the nearest Fort, and there punishing him as he deserved. After proceedinoj a consid- erable distance, however, and when near a rapid, he jumped out of the canoe, intending, as was sup- posed, to swim to the opposite shore, and thus es- cape. But the current was too strong ; and he went down the rapid, and was probably drowned. Thursday, 31. Mouth of the River Winipick. Here the North West Company, and the Hudson Bay Company, have each a fort. Here the above named river discharges its waters into Lake Win- ipick. The River Winipick, through the greater part of its course, is a succession of small lakes ; and in several places there are falls, of a conside- rable height. The country around it is broken ; and occasionally, majestick and frightful waterfalls are to be seen, particularly where the White m 1 bout it is 'l 3 River. e passed en were V' ick bear, 1 of miry 1 •1 rs since, jpon our One of ' of carry- >unishing I consid- a rapid, ivas sup- thus es- (k and he 1 rowncd. B ^inipick. Hudson 1 e above H te Win- H greater lakes ; 1 ^onside- V )roken j I lerfalls H White H .-■J HARMON S JOUKNAL. 47 River joins this, about thirty miles above where wfc now are. A few miles above this, there is a small lake, called Lac de Bonne, from which the Hudson Bay people leave our rout, and proceed to- ward the Albany Factory. The soil is good ; and among the fruit, I observe the red plum. The grape, al^y, grows well in this vicinity. In the neigh- bouring woods, a few moose and deer are found; and the Lake and River are well supplied with fish. — Our people are employed in drying the gooda some of which were wet, in coming down the rapids, yesterday. • . ...it-.. -,.x,,..i .* ?.-; ^•'../'r Saturday^ jhigust 2. When I left the Grand Portage, it was expected that I should go up the Sisiscatchwin river, to spend the winter. That river falls into the north western end of Lake Winiplck. But, since our arrival here, we have received intelligence from ♦he Sw^v River De- partment, which country lies between Lake Win- ipich and the Red and Asslniboin rivers, that, in the cpinion of Mr. M<^Leod, who superiiuends the concerns of that region, it is necessary to make another establishment there. It is therefore de- termined that I shall go and take charge of it ; and I shall accordingly remain here a few days, to wait for the arrival of the brigade, destined to the Swaij River department. — The after part of the day, I spent in shooting pigeons, which I {ounA "N't V (>■ -4 *■ A^ f m HARMON S JOURNAL. to be imrneroiis, as at this season, red raspberries, and other kinds of fruit, are ripe, and exist here in abundance. ^ «,v.;>H -*->-? i--|i •?- Sunday, 3. In walking in the adjacent coun- try, I saw the bushes and brambles loaded with ripe fruit. While partaking of it, I was led to reflect on the beneficence of the great Authour of nature, who scatters his favours with an unsparing hand, and spreads a table here in the wilderness, for tb. refreshment of his creatures. ' "■''^ — ' ' * , T'as is the first day which I have ever spent, since my infancy, without eating either bread or biscuit. As a substitute for bread, we now make use of what the Natives call 'pimican^ which con- sists of lean meat, dried and pounded fine, and then mixed with melted f|^t. This compound is put into bags, made of the skins of the buffaloe, &c. and when cold, it becomes a solid body. If kept in a dry place, it will continue good for years. But, if exposed to moisture, it will soon become musty, and unfit for use. Pimican is a very pala- table, nourishing and healthy food ; and on it, our Voyagers subsist, while travelling in this country* Sometimes we add to the two above named ingre- dients, sugar or dried berries, which we procure from the Natives ; and the tfiste of it is thus verv much improved. ^ .. ,/,.«. ^ '. Monday, 4. 1 have visivcd the Hudson Bay .t'c HARMON'S JOURNAL. 49 Dberries, '■^V ist here nt coun- ed with s led to thour of nsparing iderness. 1 3r spent, Dread or )W make « ich Con- ine, and pound is juiTaloe, 1* 1 )dy. If r years. become y pala- '*■ 1 it, our ;ountry» ! 1 ingre- jrocure is very^ i m Bay people, whose fort is but a few rods from ours. Mr. Miller, the gentleman who has charge of it, informed me, that they obtain their goods from Al- bany Factory ; that, in going down with their bar- ges, they are generally about forty days ; but, that they arc nearly twice that time in returning, in consequence of the current. The Factory lies to the north east from this. Wednesday, 6. This morning Mr. M^Donell, whom we passed a few days since, overtook, and informed us, that one of his canoes broke, in com- ing dow\ the rapids, that one of the men was drowned, and most of the property on board was lost. Friday, 8. This evening, Mons. Mayotte took a woman of this country for a wife, or rather con- cubine. All the ceremonies attending such an event, are the following. Wheu a person is desi- rous of taking one of the daughters of the Natives, as a companion, he makes a present to the parents of the damsel, of such articles as he supposes will be most acceptable ; and, among them, rum is in- dispensable ; for of that all the savages are fond, to excess. Should the parents accept the articles oflered, the girl remains at the fort with her suitor, and is clothed in the Canadian fashion. The greater part of these young women, as 1 am informed, are better pleased to remain with the 7 #■ 50 HARMON S JOURNAL. !i i; I Mi whits people, than with their own relations. Should the couple, newly joined, not agree, they are at liberty, at any time, to separate ; but no part of the property, given to the parents of the girl, will be refunded, .t -^ v! :f %rf • , Sunday, 10. Lnkc Winipick. In the former part of the day, the people for whom I have long been waiting, came up ; and soon after, I embark- ed with them, and came hither. Although we are not in want of provisions, yet our people have killed a dog to eat, the flesh of which, they say, is delicious. The dogs of this country, which resem- ble wolves, differ considerably from the dogs, found in the civilized part of the world. Monday, 11. We embarked, early in the morning ; but soon, the wind blew so as to oblige us to make the land, which we have done, on a point that projects far into the Lake. Soon after we reached the shore, a number of the Indians of this quarter, who are Chippeways and Muscagoes, came to pay their respects to us, to whom we gave some rum, tobacco, &;c. Sunday, 17. Entrance of the river Dauphine. Lake Winipick, which we now leave to go up this river, is about two hundred and fifty miles in length, and from three to sixty or seventy, in breadth. The country about this lake, for a consid- erable distance, is low, and is overspread with »ng, HARMON'S JOURNAL, di clations. je, they but no s of the former ave long embark- h we are le have 'J say, is K resem- iie dogs, pretty heavy timber, and the soil appears to be good. Dauphine river is so shallow, at present, that our people are under the necessity of leaving half their ladings, for which they will return, after having proceeded a certain distance with the re- mainder. ;^;^t^:»^?_ ■'i^^ik' bm -. i-m^in >r\ -mi} i/i*yfi Tuesday, 19. Last night, the wind blew so high, that it drove the water of the Lake to such a distance up the beach, that we were under the necessity of removing our baggage farther into the woods, at three different times. This morn- ing, our people came back for the remainder of the property ; and we proceeded up the river, which is about ten rods wide. The country about it is level. Wednesday, 20. Lac St. Martin. The river Dauphine passes ^hrough this lake. We here see a great number of swans, bustards, pelicans, &;c. The country around is swampy j and I am informed, that Moose are numerous in the vi- cinity. ■'"■' '''■ ' ^' '" ' '■ ■'■^'' ■• ^^ ■ ^ "'' Friday, 22. This morning we left Lac St. Martin, and entered the Muddy Lake, where w6 again find fowls, in great abundance. Saturday, 23. JYorth end of the Plain Portage. This portage is about two miles over, through a beautiful country, and the soil is excellent* Sunday, 24. Little Lake Winipick. Here 4 Wd 52 Harmon's journal. l:';:! iA f ; 11 ill N , Hi;, : we find a number of the Natives, who arc Chlppeways, waiting our arrival, to get rum to drink, and necessaries, to enable them to hunt the beaver. , Monday, 25. We remain still, where we were the last night ; and have been employed, during the day, in making out a selection of goods for the establishment at the entrance of the river Dauphine, which falls into the west end of this Lake. At that place, a French missionary resided, before the British obtained possession of Canada. He remained there, but for a short time ; and great success, therefore, could not have been expected. I am told, however, that there are some Indians, still living, who recollect prayers, which were taught them by the mis- sionary. Saturday, 30. Encampment Island. Here we arrived, in the fore part of the day ; and we have been employed, ever since, in setting aside goods for the Red Deer River, which falls into this lake, at the north end. We are now nearly across the lake, which is about one hundred and twenty miles long, and from five, to thirty broad. There are no mountains, of any magnitude, in this part of the country. The land is generally low, and well covered with timber, which consists Harmon's journal. 63 of a species of pine, birch, poplar, aspiii, wil- low, &c. Friday^ September 1. In the morning, Mr. M^ Gillis, with most of the people, left us to proceed to the Red Deer River, where they are to pass the ensuing winter. Mr. M^^Leod, with a num- ber of people in one canoe, has gone to Lac Bourbon, which place lies nearly north west from this. We here take, in nets, the white fish, which are excellent. f r; Wednesday, 3. I have passed the day in reading the Bible, and in meditating on my pre- sent way of living ; and, I must confess, that it too much resembles that of a savage. ■ '': ^ s Sunday, 7. Late the last evening, Mr. Mc Leod returned from Lac Bourbon; and, this morning, they again embarked for Swan River, and left me here, with two men, and as many women, to wait for the arrival of a number of canoes, which are still behind, but which are expected in daily. Wednesday, 10. Yesterday, a part of the people arri>ed, for Avhom I have been waiting, some of whom I sent to the Red Deer River, and others to Swan River. , t .a. Sunday, October 4. JVorth end of Little Lake WinipicL From the 29th of August, until the morning of this day, I remained on Encampment w^ Pi m i 54 HARMON S JOURNAL. 'n ul^ f "i I u ill ! Island, waiting for the arrival of the people, v.Iii^ were left behind. But, as they had almost con- stantly high winds, which, I am told, are common in this late part of the season, they did not make their appearance, until the second instant. - • "f During the long stay which I made at that unpleasant Island, we had little or nothing to eat, excepting what we took from the water with our nets. There were times, when we iiet with little saccess. When the wind was high, we could not set our nets ; and consequently took nothing. One night the wind was so high, that it took the only canoe which we had, to the other side of the Lake, a distance of five miles, at least. We were thus deprived of the means of setting our nets. On the eighth day after this disaster, Provi- dence sent an Indian to the place of our en- campment, who lent us his canoe to go in search of ours, which our people found, uninjured. While we had no canoe, we were under the disagreeable necessity of living upon the fish which we had left on the beach, when we took them in plenty. They had, by this time, become almost putrid. Unsavoury, however, as they were, they did not last so long as we could have wished; for, when they were expended, we had nothing to eat, until a kind Providence sent a black bear near oar tents. One of my men fired, » )lc, v.an ost con common )t make at that to eat, vhh our ct with 7e could lothinff. Dok the ! of the '^e were ir nets. Provi- our en- search injured, er the le fish e took become » they 3 have ve had sent a 1 fired, HARMON'S JOURNAL. 55 and killed him, which was a blessing, for which we endeavoured to be thankful. We considered it sent by Heaven ; and felt, that we deserved not such a favour. But ^he rain descends on the un- just as well as the just. — Yesterday, it snowed, during most of the day, which prevented us from decamping. But early this morning, without re- luctance, we left the solitary Island, where many a moment of ennui passed over me. As I had no other book, I read during my stay there the greater part of the Bible. This afternoon, we meet two men, in a small canoe, from Swan River, loaded with provisions, for the people of the Red Deer River. We did not suffer so good an opportunity, for furnishing ourselves with a sufficiency of food, to sustain us until we should meet with another supply, to pass unimproved. How delicious is food to a person who is near famishing ! But there are thousands, who know not how to prize abundance, because they have never experienced the distresses of want. Thursday, October 9. Little Swan River. Yes- terday, on account of high winds, we could not leave our encampment ; but early this morning, we embarked on board of our canoes, and at twelve, left Little Lake Winipick, and entered this river, which is eight or ten rods wide, very shallow, and full of rapids. I therefore debark- ^^ 56 Harmon's journal. 4 :' ed, and walked along on the beach about four miles, in the snow, mud and water. The people, also, for want of a sufficiency of water, were obliged to debark, and drag their canoes up the shallow places. But we are now encamped around a large fire, with plenty of food ; I have given to each of the people a dram, and we have all ceas- ed to think of the fatigue and trouble of the day. To make a place to lie down, the people scrape away the snow, and lay down a few branches ot the pine, such as this country in every part pro- duces ; and on this we spread a blanket or two, and cover ourselves with another. A day of hard labour, and of great fatigue, will enable a person to sleep soundly, on such a bed ; and to obtain refreshment, such as a sluggard will seek for in vain, on a bed of down. Friday., 10. Swan River Fort. In the morn- ing we crossed Swan Lake, which is nearly eight miles long, and then entered the Great Swan River. This river is about eleven rods wide ; there is a sufficiency of water, and there is no rapid from its mouth to the fort, a distance of twelve miles. The country adjoining, is low, and in many places, swampy, and the soil is rich. Mons. Perigne, the superintendant of the fort, has a tolerable kitchen garden. The Hudson Bay people, once came here ; but it is several years :im . HARMON S JOURNAL. 57 since they abandoned the place. As they have nothing to expect from the Company, but their salaries, they seem, so far as I can learn, to make but little exertion to extend their i^'ade, and, thereby, to benefit their employers. H'-vj •<;;.' '^r • Saturday, 11. The day has been employed in fitting out Mons. Perigne, who, with six labouring men, is to go and build a fort, about fifty miles up this river, where they will pass the winter. A few miles from this, there is a salt spring, by boil- ing down the water of which, tolerable salt is made. It is less strong than that brought from Canada ; but, used in sufficient ouantity, it will preserve meat very well. ' * "^ ... ....x< .vv+ Sunday, 12. The people destined to build a fort up the river, left us to day. I shall remain here until some persons arrive from Alexandria, which is situated nearly one hundred miles to the westward of this, among the Prairies. There I shall pass the winter, with Mr. M'^Leod, or go and build by the side of the Hudson Bay people, who are about three leagues distant from him. — Our men shoot a few hares and ducks. Thursday, 16. We have taken a few fish out of this river, with nets. This evening, two men on horses arrived from Alexandria, by whom I received a letter from Mr. M^Leod, requesting me to accompany them to that place. 8 '^f \ h 58 Harmon's journal. ,:' s ,'! Saturday, IS. Second crossing place in the Swan River. In the morning we left the fort. The country which we have passed through, is low ; and the timber, consisting of poplar, aspin, birch, willow, pine and an inferiour kind of maple, is small. Of the sap of the maple, sugar is made ; but its quality is not equal to that, produced from the real maple. >• >- y,ui4A hr.r iru.<'t w-.arjfu Monday, 20. Bird Mountain. Here Mons. Pcrigne and others are building a fort. Yester- day and to day, our way has been through prai- ries, interrupted occasionally, by small groves of wood. Cranes and Pheasants are to be seen in the prairies ; and to day, I have also seen and fired at eight Elk, without having killed any of them. They are about the size of a cow, and of a light grey colour. The males, which have long branching horns, are animals of a noble and majes- tick appearance. .v-t..^ J., Wednesday, 22. The foot of a high hill, and near a small Lake. The waters of this lake have a sulphureous taste. In the morning, we left Swan River on our right, after having crossed it on a raft, made by tying several dry trees together. Since leaving that river the country appears more hilly, and almost destitute of timber of any kind. Cranes and pheasants arc to be seen, iiXGij where. I'w «{?, .Hpf'-'.-wi n* ^f * HARMON'S JOURNAL. 59 ' Thursday^23. Alexandria. We arrived here in the afternoon ; and I am happy to find myself, at length, at the end of my journey, and where I hope to pass a few months, at least, in quietness. The fort is built on a small rise of ground, on the bank of the Assiniboine, or Upper Red River, that separates it from a beautiful prairie, about fen miles long, and from one to four bi'oad, which is as level as the floor of a house. At a little distance behind the fort, are small groves of birch, poplar, aspin and pine. On the whole, the scenery around it, is delightful. The fort is sixteen rods in length, by twelve in breadth ; the house?, stores, &c., are well built, are plaister- cd on the inside and outside, and are washed over with a white earth, which answers nearly as well vs lime, for white washing. This earth is found, in certain places, in all parts of this country. — Here horses are to be bousrht of the Natives for a mere trifle. They are well built, strong, and tolerably fleet. /^ * tw&k^ f^'A'V^u**^ »t»«, Ui^i\(Jt»>Ahx',\;^ ' This place lies in Latitude 52" north, and in 103** west Longitude. Mr. M^Leod is now gone to fort Dauphine, on horse back, which lies only four days' march from this, over land ; yet it is nearly two months, since f passed iherc in a iiJ: ■# 60 HARMON 8 JOURNAL. Ml ":\i.:\ »f Tuesday, 28. Mr. M<^Leod and company have just returned from fort Dauphine ; and I am happy in meeting him» after so loqg a sep- aration, and he appears to be pleased to see me, safely here. From the time that I was left at the Encampment Island until now, I have had no person with whom I could converse in English ; and I am not yet able tp converse in French, though I can read it tolerably well. .^-^ ,**-.-; Smday, JSTovember 9. Qn the 30th ultimo, I set ofij in company with four Canadians, on hor^^ back, for Swan River fort. The day we left this, it snowed and raired, which caused us tp pass a very disagreeable night, as we had noth- ing but our wet blankets with which to cover ourselves. The people went down for goods ; and as there is no person there who can rpad and write, I went to deliver out such articles as we are in immediate want of here. , „, .. ..,,, Sunday, 16. The Indians who come to this establishment are Crees and Assiniboins. The principal part of the former, generally remain in the woody part of the country, and hunt the moose, elk, beaver, &c. and the latter remain in the large prairies, and hunt buffaloes, wolves, &;c. Last Wednesday, twelve families of Creea and .\s9inib0ins came from the large prairies, and let us have furs and provisions. Both the men and % HARMON'S JOURNAL. 61 women have been drinking, ever since, and their noise is very disagreeabJe ; for they talk, sing and cry, at the same time. — Our men play at cards on the skbbath, the same as on any other day. For such improper conduct, I once reproved them ; but their reply was, there is oo sabbath in this country, and, they added, no God nor devil ; and their behaviour but too plainly shows, that they spoke as they think* It is a lamentable fact, that those who have been for any considerable time in this savage country, lay aside a greater part of the regulations of civilized and christian peo- ple, and behave little better than the savages. It is true, we have it not at all times in our power, to observe the sabbath As we ought, as the Natives come to our establishments as often on that day, ds any other ; and when they do come, they must be attended to, and their wants must be supplied. We are, also, frequently under the necessity of travelling on the sabbath. But it is likewise true, that, if we were rightly dis- posed, our minds might, on this day, be almost wb jy occupied with divine things. I must, therefore, acknowledge, that wc have no rea- sonable excuse for violating the sabbath, as we ^11 do. ^ \J*10ifH '»^ *« »i -*« »'->r«V .vt«. niftrt. Wednesday^ 19. Last night, there fell about four inches of snow, which is the first that we ;'.1 62 HARMON S JOURNAL. ll f H have had, this season. — Yesterday, eight families of Crees came in. While drinking, one of their women, who had a sharp pointed knife about her, fell down, and drove it nearly two inches into her side ; but the wound is not thought to be mortal. To see a house fuH of drunken Indians, consisting of men, women and children, is a most unpleasant sight ; for, in that condition, they often wrangle, pull each other by the hair, and fight. At some times, ten or twelve, of both sexes, may be seen, fighting each other promiscuously, until at last, they all fall on the floor, one upon another, some spilling rum out of a small kettle or dish, which they hold in their hands, while others are throw- ing up what they have just drunk. To add to this uproar, a number of children, some on their mothers' shoulders, and others running about and taking hold of their clothes, are constantly bawl- ing, the older ones, through fear that their par- ents may be stabbed, or that some other misfor- tune may befal them, in the fray. These shrieks of the children, form a very unpleasant chorus to the brutal noise kept up by their drunken par- ents, who are engaged in the squabble. Sunday^ JYovember 30. This, being St. An- t!rew's day, which is a (vie among the Scotch, and our Bourgeois^ Mr. M^Leod, belonging to that nation, the people of the fort, agreeably to the fi Harmon's journal. 63 families of their ►out her, into her mortal, onsisting: pleasant wrangle, At some be seen, at last, er, some 1, which 3 throw- ) add to on their 30ut and \y bawl- leir par- • misfor- shrieks lorus to :ei) par- St. An- tch, and to that ' to the custom of the country, early in the morning, pre- sented him with a cross, &c. and at the same time, a number of others, who were at his door, discharged a volley or two of muskets. Soon af- ter, they were invited into the hall, where they received a reasonable dram, after which, Mr. M'^Leod made them a present of a sufficiency of spirits, to keep them merry during the remainder of the day, which they drank at their own house. In the evening, they were invited to dance in the hall ; and during it, they received several flagons of spirits. They behaved with considerable pro- priety, until about eleven o'clock, when their heads had become heated, by the great quantity of spiritou;} liquor which they had drunk, during the course of the day and evening. Some of them became quarrelsome, as the Canadians gen- erally are, when intoxicated, and to high words, blows soon succeeded; and finally, two battles were fought, which put an end to this truly genteel, North Western ball. **{*»<»'< v.^ i;;.j(t.«»j,> is ^ 9i «»,.;.> if'^ Tuesday, December 2. As yet, we have only a few inches of snow. Yesterday morning, accom- panied by six men on horse-back, I went to the lodge or tent of one of our hunters. The people went for meat, and I, for the pleasure of riding, and seeing the country. We arrived at the place where the Indian was encamped, just as tho sun 64 HARMON S JOURNAL. was sinking below tli(5 horizon, and when the hun- || ter was about to take a sweat, which is frequently done in the following manner. The women make a kind of hut, of bended willows, which is nearly circular, and if for one or two persons only, not more than fifteen feet in circumference, and three or four in height. Over these, they lay the skins of the buifaloe, Sic. and in the centre of the hut, they place heated stones. The Indian then en- ters, perfectly naked, with a dish of water in his hand, a little of which, he occasionally throws on the hot stones, to create steam, which, in connex- ion with the heat, puts him into a profuse perspi- ration. In this situation he will remain, for about an hour ; but a person unaccustomed to endure such heat, could not sustain it for half that time. They sweat themselves in this manner, they say, in order that their limbs may become more 8U|> pie, and they more alert, in pursuing animals, <. which they are desirous of killing. They, also, consider sweating a powerful remedy, for the most of diseases. As they come from sweating, they frequently plunge into a river, or rub themselves over with snow. The country we passed through, is large prairies, with here and there a grove of small trees. This evening we return- ed to the fort ; and the horses of our people were loaded with the flesh of the moose and elk. HARMON'S JOURNAL. 65 The buffaloes are as yet a considerable distance farther, out in the spacious prairies. Nothing but severtj cold weather will drive them into the woodjr part of the country, to which they will then come, in order to be less exposed to the wind and weather, than they would be, to remain in the open plains. Sunday, 21. There is now J.bout a foot of snow on the ground; and, on th During their stay there, they will reside in tents or lodges, made of the skins of the buffa- loe, moose or elk. These skins, after hr.ving been dressed, are sewed together ; and one tent yfiW contain from ten to twenty five of them. These tents are erected on poles, and assume the form of a sugar loaf. Ten or fifteen persons will residd* in HARMON S JOURNAL. 6t one of them; for while there, they are either sit- ting or lying down. The Indians, who come to this establishment, are, as has been already observed, Crees and As- siniboins ; or as some call them, Kinistinoes and Stone Indians. Both of them are numerous tribes ; and as they often meet, and some of them intermarry, their manners and customs are simi- lar ; but there is no resemblance in their lan- guages. Both tribes are well furnished with horses. The Assiniboins, however, are, by far, the best horsemen; they never go any distance on foot, and it is generally on horse back, that they kill their game. ♦'"** '^ '*" ' ''' '-'^' '''' • They mount their horses, and run down, and kill the buffaloe, and some other animals, with bows and arrows, which they find every way as convenient for this purpose, as lire arms. But the Crees, when they can procurcSRliem, always make use of guns. Their clothing consists of leggins of cloth or dressed Antelope skins, a shirt or frock of the same materials, and a blanket or dressed Buffaloe skin, which they wrap round their bodies, and tie about their waists. To the above they will often add a cap or bonnet, of the wolf skin, and shoes for their (eet m^*''' ^ ' ' ^y. Last evening, I wrote to two fellow travellers with me from Montreal ; and the letters will be 6§ HAUMON S JOURNAL. M[ taken to them by the winter express, which leaves this, tomorrow, and is to pass by the way of Fortdes Prairies, thence to the Enghsh River, and thence directly to Athabasca. And, I am inform- ed, there is an express, which every year leaves Athabasca, in the month of December, and passes through the whole country called the orth West, and in the latter part of March, reach the Soult St. Maries. Thus the gentlemen who come up from Montreal, obtain from the interiour, intelli- gence respecting the transactions of the preceding summer and fall much earlier than they could otherwise do. This information, it is importj^nt that they receive, as soon as possible. This con- veyance of intelligence, extending^ to, the distan(;e of nearly three thousand miles, is attended^ .vvith but a trifling expense to the Company. ? .- — Thursday, 15. Beautiful weather. On the eleventh, I accompanied six of our people to the tent of one of our hunters ; and the day following, th^y returned with their sledges loaded with meat ; but I remained, to go along with the hunter, farther in the prairie. Accordingly, the next day, I proceeded with him, and saw, in dif- ferent herds, at least a thousand bufialoes, graz- ing. They would allow us to come within a few rods of them before jthey would leave their pla- ces. At this season, they arc tame, and it is not HARMON'S JOURNAL. 69 at all dangerous to go among them. But, in the fore part of the summer, ^vhich is their rutting sea- son, it is quite the reverse. Then, if they [)er- ceive a human being, the males will pursue him, and if they can overtake, will trample him under their feet, or pierce their horns through his body. • i. ;• * '^. . ' ' ^.* . - . . The male buffaloe, when fat, will weigh from one thousand, to fifteen hundred pounds, and the female, from eight hundred, to a thousand. Their meat is excellent eating; but is not gene- rally considered so delicious, as that of the moose. Wednesday, February II. On the 1st inst. ac- companied by eight of our people, and one of thd Natives as a guide, I. set otF, with a small assort- ment of goods, to go and trade with about fifty families of Crees and Assiniboins. In going to their camp or village, we were three days, and at all times, in an open country. After we had en- camped the first night, there came on a terrible storm of snow, accompanied by a strong and cold north wind ; and as we were in an open plain, we had nothing to shelter us from the violence of the weather. . In the morning, we were covered with snow, a foot in depth. Our people, however, soon harnessed the dogs ; and we proceeded, hoping to ^yarm ourselves, by running. This we found it difficult to do, as the wind was strong, and directly 'if *| t ,' f,i^ ^ |i tt .- 70 Harmon's journal. in our faces. At the close of the day, after we had encamped, our guide killed a fat buflfaloe, which supplied food, both to men and beasts. While eating it around a large fire, we almost for- got the suffering which we endured, by the cold of the preceding night and morning ; and, if we were not thankful for the blessing bestowed upon us, we were, at least, glad to enjoy it. After having pass- ed one or two cold days without eating, there is a relish in food to which the sons of indolence and of pleasure, are perfect strangers ; and which they can purchase only, at the expense of toil and of hardship, '^"t »■'♦ •ifrt'^s'vAT*^*'*. t .VAjjVft^^Uvvvi - When we had approached within about a mile of the camp of the Natives, ten or twelve of their Chiefs, or most respectable men among them, came on horseback, to meet, and conduct us to their dwellings. We arrived at them, through a crowd of people, who hailed us with a shout of joy. Immediately after our arrival, the principal Chief of the village sent his son, to invite me and my h.terpreter to his tent. As soon as we had en- tered it, and were seated, the respectable old Chief caused meat and berries, and the best of every thing which he had, to be set before us. Be- fore we had eaten much, we were sent for to an- other tent, where we received a similar treatment ; and from this, we were invited to another ; and so Harmon's journal. 71 after we ; buffaloe, id beasts, ilmost for- •le cold of f we were >on us, we iving pass- there is a ence and hich they m1 and of »ut a mile e of their ig them, ict us to hrough a shout of principal me and 3 had en- able old 1 best of M 'M .1 on, till we had been to more than half a dozen. At all these, we ate a little, and smoked our pipes; for, my interpreter iiilor ned me, tL^y would be greatly affronted, and think that we de- spised them, if we refused to taste of every thing which was set before us. Hospitality to strangers, is among the Indian virtues. — During several days that we remained with these people, we were treated with more real politeness, than is com- monly shown to strangers, in the civilized part of the world. , ji^^j. ^.:;.t; ^ * a^it,* > >;ai -ia-nui While I was at the camp of the Natives, 1 was invited to attend and see them dance. The dancers were about thirty in number, and were all clothed with the skins of the Antelope, dressed, which were nearly as white as snow ; and upon their heads they sprinkled a white earth, which gave them a very genteel appearance. Their dance was conducted in the following manner. A man, nearly forty years of age, rose with his tom- ahawk in his hand, and made, with a very distinct voice, a long harangue. He recounted all the noble exploits which he had achieved, in the sev- eral war-parties with which he had engaged his enemies ; and he made ment'on of two persons, in particular, whom he first killed, and then took off their scalps ; and for each of these, he gave a blow with his tomahawk against a post, which was 72 HARAION S JOURNAL. set up, expressly for that purpost;, near the cen- ter of the tent. And now the miisick began, which consisted of tambourines, and the shaking of bells, accompanied by singing. Soon after, the man who had made the harangue, began the dance, with great majesty ; then another arose, and join- ed him ; and shortly after, another ; and so on, one after another, until there Avere twelve or fifteen up, who al! danced around a small fire, that was in the centre of the tent. While dancing, they made many savage gestures and shrieks, such as thcv are in the habit of makinfr, when they encoun- ter their enemies. In this course ihcy continued, for nearly an hour, when ihcy took their sweats, and another party got up, and went through with the same ceremonies. Their dancing and singing, however, appeared, to be a succession of the same things ; and therefore after having remained with them two or throe hours, I returned to my lodg- ings ; and how long they continued their amuse- ment, 1 cannot r.ay, ' In this excursion, we aaw butfaloes in abun- dance ; and Avhen on a small rise of ground, I think I may with truth affirm, that there were in view, grazing on tlie Hurroundirjg plains, at least five thousand of them. Of these animals, we killed what wo wanted for our own subsistence, and the support of our dogs ;; and ithis evening, we return^ HARMON'S JOURNAL. ed to the i'ort, well pleased with our jaunt, loaded with furs and provisions, and without having re- ceived the least affront or the smallest injury from tlie Natives, notwithstanding most of them became intoxicated with the spirits, with whici) we suppli- ed them. V; - Tuesday, February 17. We have now about a i'oot and an half of snow on the ground. — Mr. Monteur, accompanied by two Canadians, arrived, with letters from our friends, in Fort des Prairies. — This morning, one of our people killed a buffa- loc in the Prairie, opposite to the fort; and an- other came within ten rods of the fort gate, when the dogs pursued hi a?, and he ran off. ^ ^ Thursday^ J 9. This day, I am twenty three years of age, and iiow rapidly does this space of time appear to have passed away ! It seems as if it were but. yesterday, that I was a child. The truth is, the time tliat we are allowed to remain in this ileeting world is so short, even if we should be permitted to reach the utmost boundary of hu- man life, that a person can scarcely have passed the ihreshhold of existence, before he must set his houae in onhr to die. • * - -^ Friday^ 20.. During the lr,st night, we sat up to deal out spirits to the Indians. One of them has his own daujL^^liter for a wife, and her mother at the same time! Incest, however, is a crime, of which 10 ; 1 * n iIAKlV10x\ S JOURNAL. ■ -i!! i.' i^^- f- f I'. I ■ V m the Indians of this quarter are not often guilty. When one of them does commit it, he is regarded by the rest of his tribe, as void of sense. ■' Saturday, March 14. The greater part of the snow is now dissolved. On the sixth inst. accom- panied by eighteen of our people, I left this, to go to Swan River fort. We had thirty sledges, some drawn by horses, and some by dogs, which were loaded with furs and provisions. ^ - Saturday, jipril 4. Swan River Fort. Here I arrived this afternoon, and have come to pass the remainder of the spring. While at Alexan- dria, my time passed agreeably in company with A. N. M^^Leod, Esq. who is a sensible man, and an agreeable companion. He appeared desirous of instructing me in what was most necessary to be known, respecting the aflfairs of this country ; and a taste for reading 1 owe, in a considerable degree, to the influence of his example. These, with many other favours, which he was pleased to shoW' me, I shall ever hold in grateful remembrance. — But now I am comparatively alone, there being no person here, able to speak a word of English ; and as I have not been much in the company of those who speak the French language, I do not as yety understand it very well. Happily for me, I have a few books; and in perusing them, I shall pase most of my leisure moments. . . , . . , ^f .-4 ^. * HARMON S JOURNAI* 75 * Monday, 6. I have taken a ride on horseback, to a place where our people are making sugar. My path led me over a small prairie, and through a wood, where I saw a great variety of birds, that were strairyng their tuneful throats, as if to wel- come the return of another spring; small animals, also, were running about, or skipping from tree to tree, and at the same time, were to be seen swans, bustards, duckc, &c. swimming about in the river and ponds. All thepe things together, rendered my ramble beyond expression delightful. - Friday, 10. Fine pleasant weather. This afternoon, I took a solitary, yet pleasing walk, to the ruins of a fort, which was abandoned, a few years since, by the Hudson Bay people, to whom it belonged, but who do not now come into this part of the country. While surveying these ru- ins, I could not avoid reflecting on the short dura- tion of every thing in this fleeting and perishing world. I then went to a spot, where a number of their people had been interred, far from their native country, their friends and relations! And while I was lamenting their sad fate, ray blood chilled at the thought, that what had happei^ed to them might, very probably, befal me also. But my prayer shall ever be, that a merciful God will, in duo time, restore mc to my friends and re- s If 1 1 harmok's jouri^al. n lations, in ^-^od health, und with an unblemished charr;H^;i% •- ■■ • - --" •'• " ' • Snadoijy 19. ^i\ Friday last, there fell nearly a foot of snow, which, however, was soon dissolv- ed ; and it caused the river to overflow its banks to such a distance, that our people who were mak- ing sugar, were obliged to leave the woods and to return to the fort. ..-«;• ",'<-. S-»«- ♦i^h* Tuesday^ 21. All the snow |ias left us ; and we are again favoured with line weather. The last night, the ice in this river broke up. Monday^ 27. It has snowed all day, and has fallen to the depth of six inches. — I now begin to feel the want of books, having brought but few with me, on account of the short time that I ex- pect to remain here. Saturday, May 2. It has rained all day, which is the first time that any has fallen, since the last autumn. — As \. have but little bufJness that requires my attention, I employ the incffter part of my time in reading the bible, and in study- ing the French language. Sunday, 10. It has rained constantly, during three successive days, which has caused the wa- ter in the river, since yesterday, to rise more than four (eei. — Yesterday, one of my men went out to shoot duc'n 3, and lost his way, and was therefore un- der the necessity of j.assing the night in the woods, :psi- r-H 5:-fA>?M0«'S JOURNAL. 77 wiiho'M iJiy covering from the cold ar;d the rain, which poured down in torrents. This morning, how- ever, by chance, or rather directed by an all pro- tecting Providence, he fell upc.5 a small foot path, which brought him directly to the fort, where he was not a little pleased to arrive. Experience only can teach us how to value such a deliver- a nee. Wednesday, 13. The late rains have caused this river to overflow its banks to such an uncom- mon distance, that when I arose this morning, to my surprise, I found seven inches of water, on the first floor of 'he house, whrch is an event that the oldest person here does not remember before to have witnessed. We arc obliged to leave the fort, and to pitch our tents on a small rise of groundj at no great distance off, where we shall r. main, until the deluge is abated. - « Friday, 15. Sent five men with 9. canoe, two days march up this river, for Mr. M'^Leod and company, as the face of the country extensively, lies under water. * Wednesday, 20. The water has left the fort ; and with pleasure, we leave our tcnls, to occupy our former dwellings. This afternoon Mr. M^ Leod, and company, arrived, and arc thus far on their way to the Grand Poi tage. Tuesday, 26. Yesterday, our people finished i^i ■V 78 JlAUMO^ S .lOUttNAL. ■'JL_!_ makiK^^ our iurs into packs, oi nuicly pounds weight eacli. Two or throe of these make a load for a man, to carry across the portages. This morning, all the hands, destined to this service, •^mbarked on board of five canoes, for Head-qimr- ters. To Mr. M<=Leod, I delivered a packet of letters, to be forwarded to my friends, who reside at Vcrgcnne^ in the state of Vermont, and tomor- row, I shiiii set out for Alexandria, where I ex- pect to pass the ensuing summer, and to superin- tend the nfifairs of that place and of this, yntii the next atifumn. .. -tr^.*^,.. t-^ Monday, June 1. Accompanied by two men, I at rived at Alexandria, this afternoon ; and I here found six families of Crees, encamped about the fort. I have with ne one clerk, two interpreters and five labouring men, also six women and tbir- t^fu children, belonging ;o oui people, and a num- ber of women and children beionirirjg to the Na- tives, whose husbands bav i gone to make war up- on the Rapid Indian^^ oJ' as they rail themselves, Paw-is-tick 1-^-ne-wuck. This is a small but brave tr-'be, who remain a ccnsiderable dist^.nce out in the large prairies, atid tov/ard the upper part of the Missouri river. vVe 'iiaU have nearly one hun- dred mouths to fill, for tLo ^:;reater part of the summer, out of our store ; but to furnish the means, we have hired two of the Natives to hunt Harmon's journal. 79 for us, during the season ; and moose, elk, &c. are considerably numerous in this vicinity. We hope, there/ore, that we shall not want for the means of subsistence. Buffaloes have now returned several days' march from this place, into the spacious prairies ; but this is no serious loss to us, since, if they were near they would be but indifferent food, as at this season of the year, they are always lean, and consequently, rank and tough. '• ^i^Vednesday, 10.^ It is currently reported and believed, that the Rapid Indians are forming a war-party, in order to come against the Indians of this quarter^ whom they consider, and I think with suflicieni reason, as their enemies. Should they come this way, they will as probably fall uptT us m upon the Natives themselves ; for they say, that we furniuh the Crees and Assiniboins with what fire arms they want, while they get but few. I have, therefore, thought it expedient to direct our people, to bnild block-houses over the ibrt gates, and to put the bastions in order, that we may be prepared to defend ourselves, in case of an attack./ !«» Sunday^ 14. This afternoon, a number of tho^> Natives danced in the fort. Their dance was conducted in the following manner. Two stakes wore driven into the ground, about twenty feet apart ; and as one person boat the drum, the oth- ■ f L\ , i f i 1 L^_, PO HARMON S JOURNAL. 14 !»l I ors, consisting of men and women, danced round these stakes. The men had a different step from that of the women. The latter placed both feet together, and first moved their heels forward and then their toes, and thus went slowly round the stakes. But the men rather hopped than danced, and therefore went twice round the stakes, while the women went once. They all kept exact time with the music, for they have excellent oars. Indeed, I believe that all their senses are more acute than those of the white people. ^ ■/,, , Tlmrsday^ July 9. This day, there came here an American, that, when a small child, was taken from his parents, who then resided in the Illinois country. He was kidnapped by the Sauteux, with whom he has resided ever since ; and he speaks no other language excepting theirs. He is now about twenty years of » ^e, and is regarded as a chief among that tribe* He dislikes to hear people speak to him, respecting his white relations ; and m every respect exceptmg his colour, he resem- bles the savages, with whom he resides. He is said to be an excellent hunter. He remains with an old woman who, soon after he was taken from his relations adopted him into her family *, and they appear to be mutually as fond of each other, as if they wore actually mother and son. . Harmon's journal. 81 •' Tliur^day^ 30. Different kinds of berries are now ripe, such as strawberries, raspberries, and what the Canadians call paires, which the Natives denominate Mi-sas-qui-to-min-uck. The last, if they are not the same in kind, exactly resemble, in shape and taste, what in the New Enirland states are called shad berries. When they are found in the prairies, they glow on bush- es, four or five feet high ; but in a thick wood they often reach to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. Of this wood, the Natives always make their ar- rows. These berries, when properly dried by the sun, have an agreeable taste, and are excellent to mix with pimican. The Natives generally boil them in the broihof fat meat ; and this constitutes one of their most dainty dishes, and is introduced at all their feasts. Mr. A. N. M<^Leod has a son here named Al- exander, who is nearly five years of age, and whose Mother is of the tribe of the Rapid Indians. In my leisure time, lam teaching him the rudiments of the English language. The boy speaks the Sauteux and Cree fluently, for a child ; and makes him- self understood tolerably well, in the Assiniboin Mnd French languages. In short, he is like most of the children of this country, blessed with a re- tentive memory, and learns very readily. We have made about ten tons of hay, to feed 11 I f t , i ' t -1 *-' 62 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 'I', iil '11 those ot our horses which we intend shall work, during the winter season. The others live the whole year, upon the grass which they find in the prairies. In the winter, to procure it, they must scrape away, with their feet, the snow, which is generally eighteen inches deep, except- ing on the highest hills, from which the wind, drives most of it into the valleys. ^' Thursday, AiLgust 27. All the provision which we now have in the fort, consists of only about fifteen pounds of pimican ; and when we shall be able to add to our supply, God only knows. All our dependance is on our hunters ; and it is now a considerable time since they have killed any thing, though moose and elk are numerous in this vicinity. ^ . ... Sunday, 30. Yesterday, thrre of our people arrived from the Grand Portage, with letters from Mr. M<=Leod, &c., which inform me, that the above mentioned people, together with oth- ers who remained at Swan River fort, were sent off from head quarters, earlier than usual, with an assortment of goods, supposing, that we might need some articles, before the main brigade ar- rives. , . V *,V . ft^.jr^.'*, I. .--: Sunday, September 6. This is the third day. during which it has rained, without the least cessation.^ — There are five families of Crees, en- :# HARMON S JOURNAL. a3 camped about the fort, who have been continual- ly drunk, during the last forty eight hours ; but now they begin to be troublesome, for they have nothing more to sell, yet they wish to continue , drinking. ^ •" • •» ^'^ One of ihe Indians, who w&s of the party that Jast spring went to war, has recently come in. When he arrived, his face was pairted entirely black, which I am informed, is always their cus- tom, when they return from such expeditions. As he drew nigh to the fort, he began to sing a war song. He Gtatcs, that his party, the Crees and Assiniboins, have made great slaughter among their enemies, the Rapid Indians, and are bring- ing a number of their women and children home, for slaves. He was sent forward, as he says, to inform us of what they consider, glorious news. Monday^ 7. More of the Indians, who have been to war, have reached this place, and have brought several slaves, and a few scalps, with them. This afternoon, they danced and sung their war songs. Agreeably to the custom of the country, I gave them a few trifling articles, not as a reward for having been to war, but because they have done us honour, as they think, by dan cing in our fort. - « Sunday^ 27. It lias snowed and rained all day. This afternoon, Mr. M<=Leod and company, I ")'?A m m ■rr' n: — \x\ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. / %J/ M^'£^ M 1.0 I.I 1.25 !f IIM IIIIIM [ff i- 12.2 IT lj£ 2.0 1.8 -U ■ 1.6 V] <^ /a "cr-l e. el ''^A ^4 >/ 7 ■^ > y Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4^03 4% V ^V , '^.^ V >^ p VA Harmon's journal. i>'^.i <'.\ ■f- returned from tho Grand Portage, and delivered to me letters from my friends in my native land ; and I am happy in being informed, that they left them blessed with good health. Self-banished^ as I am, in this dreary country, and at such a dis- tance from all I hold dear in this world, nothing beside, could give me half the satisfaction which* this intelligence affords. I also received several letters from gentlemen in different parts of the widely extended North West Country. -^ Friday, October 2. Moniagne j^iseau, or the Bird Mountain, In the morning, I left Alexan- dria, on horse back, and arrived here this evening where, by permission of Providence, I shall pass the ensuing winter. I have with me three inter- preters, six labouring men and two women. The fort is built on the bank of Swan River, a little more than fifty miles distant from its entrance in- to Swan Lake. The Indians who frequent this establishment are Sauteux, Crees and Mus-ca-goes, all of whom speak nearly the same language. Moose and elk are considerably numerous, in this vicinity ; but buffaloes seldom come thus far, into the woody country. '* ...'^^ ..a^y^ .*.. Thursday, 29. On the 22nd instant, Mr. M^Leod, with ten of his people, arrived on horse- back; and on the day following, I accompanied them to the lower fort, where I met Mr. William Harmon's journal. 85 delivered ^m tive land ; m they left J -banished/ jH ich a dis- H , nothing ^| 3n which. WM i several 8 s of the M M, or the .« 't Alexan- S 3 evening m shall pass ^^ ree inter- J 3n. The m , a little ;9 ranee in- 9 uent this '^ s-ca-goes, « anguage. M IS, in this 1 far, into ^m ant, Mr. H 3n horse- H »mpanied ^| William ■ Henry, a clerk. Mr. M^Leod has also brought another clerk into this country, by the name of Frederick Goedike. This evening, Messrs. M^Leod, Henry and myself, returned, but left the people behind, whose horses are loaded with goods, for this place and Alexandria. ^ Tuesday, JYovember 3. Snow has fallen, to the depth of three inches, which is the first that we have had, this fall. = -- . Thursday, 19. A foot and an half of snow has fallen. Wednesday, December 23. Clear and cold. On the 16th inst. I went to Alexandria, where I pass- ed several days agreeably, in the company of Messrs. M*=Leod, Henry, and Goedike. We have now more snow than we had at any time the last winter. In consequence of lameness, I returned on a sledge drawn by dogs. Friday, 25. This being Christmas day, agree- ably to the custom of the country, I gave our peo- ple a dram, and a pint of spirits, each. ^«* ' Monday, 28. Payet, one of my interpreters, has taken one of the daughters of the Natives for a wife ; and to her parents, he gave in rum, dry goods, &c. to the value of two huhJrcd dollars. No ceremonies attend the formation of such con- nexions, as I have before remarked, excepting that the bridegroom, at the time to retire to rest, shows '?.!• f i ,. f 86 HARMON'S JOURNAL. «; ' his bride where their common lodging place is ; and they continue to cohabit, as long as both par- ties choose, but no longer. One thing is secured by this arrangement, which is by no means always found in the civilized world, and that is, while per- sons live together, in a state of wedlock, they will live in harmony. "^ • ^ Friday, January 1, 1802. This being the first day of the year, in the morning, I gave the peo- ple a dram or two, and a pint of rum each, to drink in the course of the day, which enabled them to pass it memly, although they had very little to eat ; for our hunters say they can kill nothing. One of them will not go out of his tent ; for he imagines, that the Bad Spirit, as they call the devil, is watching an opportunity to find him in the open air, in order to devour him. What will not imagination do ! Saturday^ 9. Several days since, I sent a num- ber of my people to Alexandria for meat, as neith- er of my hunters kill any thing ; though tl^erc is no scarcity of animals, in this vicinity. But they have just returned, without any thin>r. They say that the buffaloes, in consequence of the late mild weather, have gone a considerable distance, into the large prairie. We are therefore under the necessity of subsisting on pounded meat, and dried chokecherries. This latter article, is little better ni .„-..•. n.j '4-s^ Harmon's journal. 87 than nothing. When we shall be in a better situ- ation, God only knows. Hope, however, which seldom abandons the wretched, denies us not her comforting aid ; and past experience teaches .us, that it is possible our circumstances may suddenly change for the better. Sunday, 17. Last evening, our people brought from the tent of our hunter, the meat of a moose, which lighted up a smile of joy upon our counte- nances. We were happy to find, that a kind Providence, instead of abandoning, had favoured us with one of the richest dainties, that this coun- try affords. It would be well if our joy was true gratitude to our kind Benefactor. — There are twelve persons in the fort ; and yet for the last fifteen days, we have subsisted on what was scarce- ly sufficient for two people ! These were cer- tainly the darkest days that I ever experienced, in this Oi any other country. . , .,ps*, Tuesday, ]9. I have taken a walk, accompa- nied by Payi*, a short distance from the fort, where we found hazelnuts, still on the bushes, in such plenty, that a person may easily gather a bushel in the course of a day. I am told, that when sheltered from the wind, all of them do not fall off, until the month of May. Monday, February I. For several days past, the weather has been excessively cold ;. and thiis I) 88 Harmon's journal. ;i>'^ i: ^'! ':' has been, as I think, the coldest day that I ever experienced. In fact, the weather is so severe, that our hunters dare not venture out of their tents, although they, as well as ourselves, have lit- tle to eat. . . .* Sunday^ 7. During the last three days, we have subsisted on tallow and dried cherries. This evening, my men returned from Alexandria, with their sledges loaded with buffaloe meat ; and the sight of it, was truly reviving. Had this favour been withheld from us a few days longer, we must have all miserably perished by famine. ^-^ Monday^ 8. All the Indians of this place, ex- cepting my hunters, have gone to pass about a couple of 'months, as they are accustomed to do, at this season, on their beloved food, the buffaloe. „ Friday, 19. At present, thanks to the Giver of all good, we have a pretty good stock of pro- visions in store, and therefore expect not again to want, this season. Saturday, March 6. I have just returned from a visit to my friends at Alexandria, where I pass- ed four days very pleasantly, in conversing in my mother tongue. This is a satisfaction that no one knows, excepting those, who have been situated as I am, wilh a people with whom I cannot speak fluently. And if I could, it would afford me little satisfaction to converse with the ignorant Canadi- S.; ii:i: t Harmon's journal. 89 ans around me. All their chat is about horses, dogs, canoes, women and strong men, who can fight a good battle. I have, therefore, only one way left to pass my time rationally, and that is reading. Happily for me I have a collection of good books ; and mine will be the fault if 1 do not derive profit from them. I, also, begin to find pleasure in the study of French. ; , m ,> r.nu: Saturday, 20. The greater number of our Indians have returned from the prairies ; and as they have brought little with them to trade, I, of course, give them as little ; for we are at too great a distance from the civilized world, to make many gratuities. Yet the Indians were of a differ- ent opinion ; and at first made use of some unpleas- ant language. But we did not come to blows, and are now preparing to retire to rest, nearly as good friends as the Indians and traders generally are. With a few exceptions, that friendship is little more, than their fondness for our property, and our eagerness to obtain their furs. .: Sunday y May 2. Accompanied by one of my interpreiers, I have taken a ride to a place where I intend building a fort, the ensuing summer. The animals in this vicinity are moose, red deer, a spe- cies of the antelope, grey, black, brown, choco- late coloured and yellowish bears, two spscies of wolves, wolverines, polecats or skunks, lynxes, kitts, beavers, otters, fishers, martins, minks, badg- ers, muskrats and black, silver, cross and red fox- es. Of fowls, we have swans, geese, bustards, cranes, cormorants, iocns, snipes, several species of ducks, water-hens, pigeons, partridges, pheasants, &c. &:c. Most of the above named fowls, are nu- merous in spring and autumn ; biit, excepting a few, they retire to the north in the summer, to brood. Toward the fall, they return again ; and before winter sets in, they go to the southward, where they remain, during a few of the coldest months of the year. ;.'„. .^ t ,..''.*,;. . >^ Thursday^ 6. This morning, I received a let- ter from Mr, M^^Leod, who is at Alexandria, in- forming me- that a few nights since, the Assini- boins, who are noted thieves, ran away with twenty two of his horses. Many of this tribe, who reside in the large prairies, are constantly going about to steal horses. Those which they find at one it- 8 l\-%\ 92 Harmon's journaLc ■H.Si fort, they will take and sell to the people of ai*- other fort. Indeed, they steal horses, not unfre- quently, from their own relations. ^^ Wednesday, 12. It has snowed and rained, dur- ing the day. — On the 7th inst. I went to Alexan- dria, to transact business with Mr. M^Leod. Dur- ing this jaunt, it rained almost constantly; and on my return, in crossing this river, I drowned my horse, which cost last fall^ one hundred dollars in goods, as we value them here. ' Monday, 17. This afternoon, Mr. M<^Leod and company passed this place, and are on their way to the Grand Portage. But I am to pass, if Providence permit, another summer in the inte- riour, and to have the superintendence of tlie lower fort, this place and Alexandria, residing chiefly at the latter place. ' " "'"'■ ' *' lliesday, 18. All the Indians belonging to this place, have now come in with the produce of their hunts, which is abundant ; and to reward them for their industry, I clothed two of their Chiefs, and gave a certain quantify of spirits to them, and to the others. With this they became intoxicated, and continued so during the last night, which preventeH our closing our eyes in sleep ; for it is at all times necessary to watch the mo*- tions of the Indians, and especially is this the case. .'E -i i ■''i- ^*: HARMON^S JOURNAL. 93 when reason has been dethroned, and passion has assumed the sole dominion over them, through the influence of ardent spirits. While in that condi- tion, they, like other people, often do things which they will regret in their sober moments. Sunday, 23. It has snowed all day ; and about six inches have fallen. I am waiting the arrival of Mr. Henry to take charge of this post, when I shall proceed to Alexandria. Two women brought me a few hazelnuts, which they this day' gathered from the bushes. Monday, 31. Alexandria. Here, accompani- ed by two of my people, I arrived this afternoon. I ncrossing Swan River, I was so unfortunate as to drown another horse ; and I was therefore obliged to perform the remainder of the journey on foot, with nothing to eat. Here, thanks to the Bestow- er of all good, I find a tolerable stock of provis- ions. Mr. Goedike is to pass the summer with me, also two interpreters, and three labtouring men, besides several women and children, who together, form a snug family. '-^ ^'"^■ Wednesday, June 23. On the 16th inst. accom- panied by two of my people, I set off for Swan River fort, on horseback. The first night, we slept at Bird Mountain ; and the day following, we arrived at the lower fort. From that place, 1 returned in one day, which is a distance of ninety Mi ■ i 'Un 9 '/" V\\' ■IIP"'"' 04 HARMON'S JOURNAL. \ . i I il '"'.:• i)j .' ii iif. ijf miles. I, however, took a fresh horse at the Bird Mountain. One of my people, who travelled less rapidly, has arrived this evening, and informed me, that he drowned his horse, at the same place where I had before drowned two. On my return here, those in whose charge I "had left the place, had nothing to offer me to eat, excepting boiled parchment skins, which are little better than nothing, and scarcely deserve the name of food. I have therefore sent a part of my people, to endeavour to take some fish out of a small lake, called by the Natives Devil's Lake, which lies about ten miles north from this. If they should not succeed, and our hunters should not be more fortunate than they have been for some time past, I know not what will become of us. All our dependance is on a kind Providence ; and we cannot but hope for a speedy relief, from our truly sad condition. ■ Friday, July 2. For six days, after I sent the people to fish in the above mentioned lake, we subsisted at the fort on parchment skins, dogs, herbs and a few small fish, that we took out of the river opposite to the fort. But now, we obtain fish in greater plenty. One of our hunters aas been in, and told me what he thought to be the cause why he could not kill. He said that when he went to hunt, he ' tc- '■'*'?*»•■'« HARMON'S .TOURNAL. 95 generally soon fell upon the track of some animal, which he followed; but that, as soon as he came nigh to him, he heard the terrible voice of an Evil Spirit, that frightened both himself and the animal. The animal would of course run off, and the pursuit would etid. — I told the hunter, that I had a certain powerful medicine ; and provided he would do with it as I would direct him, it would not only frighten the Evil Spirit in his turn, but would also render him at first speechless, and that shortly after it would cause him to die. I then took several drug:; and mixed them togeth- er, that he might not know what they were, which I wrapped in a piece of white paper, and tied to the but-end of his gun, and thus arm- ed him to encounter great or little devils; for they believe in the existence of different orders. I told him to go in search of a moose or deef ; and as soon as h© should hear the voice of the Evil Spirit, to throw the paper tied to his gun behind him into the air, and that it would fall in- to the mouth of the Evil Spirit pursuing himj and silence and destroy him. I warned him not to look behind him, lest he should be too much frightened at the sight of so monstrous a creature, but to pursue the animal, which he would un- doubtedly kill. ■> ,v. The same day, the Indian went to hunting. i r X i ■ r 96 HARMON'S JOURNAL. .lilt and fell upon the track of an animal, which he followed, as he has since told me, but a short distance, before the Evil Spirit, as his custom was, began to make his horrid cries. The Indian, however, did with the medicine as I had directed him, and heard no more of the frightful voice, but continued following the animal until) ap- proaching him, he fired, and killed a fine fat red deer ; and he has since killed several others. Not only he, but the other Indians place, from this circumstance, perfect confidence in my medi- cines. What will not imagination, aided by great superstition, make a person believe ! It may be caused, however, at times, to remove the evils of its own creation.? -. li io hi^B^^^'f'- f^Ai -^ i.^r f Sunday, 4. Mr. William Henry and company arrived from the Bird Mountain, and inform us, that they are destitute of provision there. They will, therefore, come and pass the re- mainder of the summer with us for we now have provisions in plenty..*, oi) otrti fo.tl bnirin ^ Monday, 17. In consequence of the great increase of our family of late, we are again poorly supplied with provisions. In order, if possible, to obtain a supply, I have sent seven of my people several different ways, in search of the Natives, \Vho will be able to relieve our wants, should our men chance to find them. For this is the season iia. HARMON'S JOURNAL. 97 e season of the year, when almost all wild animals are the fattest ; and therefore, \* is the best time to kill them, and make them ihco dry provisions. Friday, 23. There are at present, in this vi- cinity, grass-hoppers, in such prodigious numbers, as 1 never before saw in any place. In fair weather, between eight and ten o'clock, A. M. which is the only part of the day when many of them leave the ground, they are flying in such numbers, that they obscure the sun, like a light cloud passing over it. They also devour every thing before them, leaving scarcely a leaf on the trees, or a blade of grass on the prairies ; and our potatoG tops escape not their ravages. Tuesday, August 3. The most of the mosque- toes and horse flies, which are so troublesome to man and beast, have left us, as the nights now be- gin to be cool. Yesterday, six families of Crees came to the fort; and they have been drinking, ever since. An In- dian had a few wrangling words with a squaw, be- longing to another band, to whom he gave a slight beating. At that time, the chief, who was the friend of the Indian, was passing by ; and he was so enraged at the abusive language given by the woman to his friend, that he commenced boating her on the head with a club, and soon terminated her life. This morning, th? Indian 13 n\ f r ■I 1 • T ■ki I ' ' :f ' i ;l Ilk I (' ? ' Harmon's journal. • women buried her corpse ; and no more notice is taken of her death, than if a dog had been killed ; for her relations are at a considerable distance, in another part of the country. — An In- dian is not much regarded or feared by his fellows, unless he has a number of relations to take part with him in his contests while in life, or to avenge his death, in case he should be murdered. This is true among all the Indian tribes, with which I have been acquainted. Wednesday, 11. On the ninth instant, a Chief among the Crees, came to the fort, accompanied by a number of his relations, who appeared very desirous that I should take one of his daughters, to remain with me. I put him off by telling him, that I could not then accept of a woman, but probably might, in the fall. He pressed me however, to allow her to rema!.i with me, at once, and added, " I am fond of you, and my wish is to have my daughter with the white people ; for she will be treated better by them, than by her own relations." In fact, he almost persuaded me to keep h«r ; for I was sure that while 1 had the daughter, I should not only have the father's furs, but those of all his band. This would be for the interest of the Company, and would there- fore, turn to my own advantage, in some meas- ure J so that a regard to interest, well nigh made HARMOtf's JOURNAL. m me consent to an act, which would have been un- wise and improper. But, happily lor me, I es- caped the snare: ''* '■■ * Saturday, 28. I have sent Primault, one of my interpreters, with a letter, about six days' march from this, where I expect he will meet Mr. M<^Leod and company, on their way from the Grand Portage. Two of our people, whom I sent a few days since into the large prairie, have just returned with the news, that buffaloes are numerous, within two days' march from this. They say, that the Natives, during the two days that they remained with thekii, killed upwards of eighty, by driving them into a park, made for that purpose. ? Ji vh Sunday, October 3. Yesterday, a little snow fell, which is the first that we have had this sea- We now begin to think some disaster has son. e me as- befallen our people, on their way in, as they do not make their appearance so soon as usual. ?vm * M^^^MondoAj, 4. One of our men has just arrived from the Grand Portage, and delivered me a let- ter from- Mr. M^^Leod, informing me, that he is going to Athabasca, and is to be succeeded here by Mr. Hugh M^^Gillies. The canoe in which this man came, left head-quarters alone, some time before the main brigade was prepared to leave. ;r Thursday, 21. This afternoon, Mr. Hugh 100 HARMON'S. JOURNAL. I'M ! , M M*^Gillle9, accompained by one man on horse back) arrived, and informs me, that they were stopped by the ice, fifteen miles below Swan River fort, whence they will be obliged to bring the goods, on sledges. Monday, 25. A large band of Indians have been here, who were continually drinking, during the last 'forty eight hours. They have now ta- ken their departure ; but another band has just arrived, and, therefore, we must pass another night without sleep ; for when the Natives are at the fort, and have the means of purchasing spirits, they expect to drink both night and day. n Saturday, 30. Several of our people arrived from Swan River, and delivered me letters from my friends in the United States, the perusal of which, has afibrded me much satisfaction. Samuel Holmes, a clerk and interpreter, and a countryman of mine, has left us, to go and join our opponents, the X. Y. people. *[Soon after- wards, he left the service of the last mentioned company, and went to live with the Natives, the Assiniboins, by whom, a year or two after, he was killed, while he was on his way from the Red River to the River Missouri.] Monday, JYovember 1. I have taken a ride, * The remarks included in brackets were added at a lat- 6r date. ,f { HARMON'S JOURNAL. 101 accompanied by my interpreter, down to see the Hudson Bay people. A Mr. Miller has charge of the place, and has with him fifteen labouring men, the greater part of whom, have just return- ed from Albany fort, which stands at the mouth of Albany River. .^ Tuesday, 9. Bird Mountain. Here I am to pass another winter ; and with me there will be one interpreter and six labouring men, &c. Thus I am continually moving from place to place ; and when my residence will be more stationary, God only knows. I cannot, however, but look forward, with pleasing expectation, to the time, when I hope to be permitted to settle down in some part of the civilized world. i{> i^ Friday, ^ 9. I have just returned from the lower fort, where I have been accompanied with part of my people, for goods. I find here a band of Indians, who have been waiting for my return, in order to procure such articles as they need, to enable them to make a fall hunt. The Indians in this quarter have been so long accustomed to use European goods, that it would be with difficulty that they could now obtain a livelihood, without them. Especially do they need fire arms, with which to kill their game, and axes, kettles, knives, &c. They have almost lost the use of bows and arrows; and they would find it nearly impossible Hi •',4 I' 'n ?' ( !h w^ f- i-'Al 102 HARMON S JOURNAL. to cut their wood with implements, made ol' stone or bone. ■'*'•'■ ■''■■.' >-• ' ■*' .r -s lv-- ^.-.--j,',.* 4', Thursday, December 25. Severe cold weath- er. This day being Christmas, our people have spent it as usual, in drinking and fighting. — My ed- ucation has taught me, that the advent of a Sa- viour, ought to be celebrated in a far different manner. — Of all people in the world, 1 think the Canadians, when drunk, are the most disagreea- ble ; Tor excessive drinking generally causes them to quarrel and fight, among themselves. Indeed, I had rather have fifty drunken Indians in the fort, than five drunken Canadians. . ^ - . - .- «: Thursday, January 27,1803. I have just return- ed from Alexandria, where I passed six days, much to ray satisfaction, in the company of Messrs. H. M^Gillies, W. Henry and F. Goedike. While there, I wrote to Messrs. M*=Leod, A. Henry and .7. Clarke, all of Athabasca, which letters will be taken to them, by our winter express. ,- : r Sunday, February 20. Yesterday morning, one of the Indian women came to the fort and said, her husband had cut off her nose, and was deter- mined to kill her, and that she therefore thought proper to leave him, and go to Alexandria, where she we'd be out of his reach, at least for the present. But, after her arrival here, she altered her mind, and desired my interpreter to nut an HARMON^S JOURNAL. 103 end lO her life, which he, of course, refused to do. Then said she, * I will do the business myself, for I am resolved that I will live with my husband no longer.' We did not believe, however, that she would execute this determination, — Soon after, she went into the woods, a short distance, and laid down her load of the few things which she had upon her back, and struck and kindled up a fire, in- to which she threw the most of her property. When it was nearly consumed, she took a little bag of powder and put it into her bosom, and then set fire to it. The explosion burned a great part of the hair from her head, injured her face very much, and rendered her perfectly blind. She now commenced running about, in order if possible, to catch her dogs, which she was resolved next to burn. When we heard her calling out for them, we went out to see what she was doing; for at this time, we knew nothing of what had taken placo. — The spectacle was truly shocking! She was so disfigured, as scarcely to appear like a hu- man being. We brought her into the fort, where she remained very quiet, until we were all in bed and asleep, when she got up, and went again into the woods. There she tied a cord about her neck, and then fastened it to the limb of a tree. But on throwing herself off, the branch broke, and she fell into the snow, where she remained until morn- y, -* • !1 • 4 .'i i ,U 104 HARMON'S JOURNAL. f,f * I i ing, when we found her nearly lifeless. On ex- amining, we iiiscovered that she had run a needle its full length, into her right ear. We brought her again to the fort ; but her head is very much swollen, and her face is perfectly black ; and whether she will recover, is uncertain. [Several years afterward, 1 saw her with her old husband ; and she appeared to enjoy as good health as for- merly.] '""■"' -- -i '»..»> •mJ; ,*. .,.,..•.„• :.^.,-J,.. Wednesday, May 4. Alexandria. Here, if Providence permit, I shall pass another summer, and have with me Mr. F. Goedike, one interpre- ter an(i several labouring men, besides women and children. As Mr. Goedike will be absent from the fort, during the greater part of the summer, I shall be, in a great measure, alone ; for ignorant Canadians furnish little society. Happily for me, I have lifeless friends, my books, that will never abandon me, until I first neglect them. Thursday^ June 2. I have set our people to surround a piece of ground for a garden, with pal- isades, such as encompass our forts. The X. Y. people are building a fort, five miles up this river. ■ " " ' • ' •- One of our men, a Canadian, gave me his son, a lad of about twelve years of age, whom I agree, in the name of the North West Company, to feed and clothe, until he'becomes able to earn some* HARMON'S JOURNAL. 105 thing more. His mother is a Sauteux woman. He is to serve me as cook, &;c. •UM - ^^jfr-T 4 . 1 » tfcF f^-^*^ t-W Tuesday, 21. This afternoon, we had an un- commonly heavy shower of hail and rain, ^n is- Yesterday, I sent Mr. F. Goedike, accompa- nied by several of our people, with a small assort- ment of goods, to remain at some distance from this, for several weeks. In the absence of my friend, this is to me, a solitary place. At such times as this, my thoughts visit the land of my na- tivity ; and I almost regret having left my friends and relatives, among whom I might now have been pleasantly situated, but for a roving disposition. But Providence, which is conceited in all the af- fairs of men, has, though unseen, directed my way into this wilderness ; and it becomes me to bear up under my circumstances, with resignation, per- severance and fortitude. I am not forbidden to hope, that I shall one day enjoy, with increased satisfaction, the society of those friends, from whom I have for a season banished myself. Sunday, 26. I have just returned from an ex- cursion to the large prairies, in which I was ac- companied by two of my people ; and in all our ramble we did not see a single Indian. The most of them, as is their custom every spring, have gone to war again. We saw, and ran down and killed, buffaloes, and also, saw red deers and antelopes, 14 ■: ^1 I' ■ -v 106 HARMON S JOURNAL. bounding aero *he prairies, as well as bears and wolves, roving i Jt in search of prey. In the small lakes and ponds, which are to be met with occasionally, all over the prairies, fowls were in considerable plenty ; and with our fire arms, we killed a sufficiency of them, for our daily consump- tion. Although it rained during the greater part of the time that we were absent from the fort, yet the pleasing variety of the objects which were presented to our view, made our ride very agree- able. One night, we slept at the same place where, a few days before, a party of the Rapid Indian warriors had encamped. They were prob- ably in search of their enemies, the Crees and As- siniboins ; and it was happy for us that we did not meet them, for they would undoubtedly have massacred us, as they consider us as enemies, for furnishing their opponents with tire arms. ^ --'• Monday^ August 8. We have now thirty peo- ple in the fort, and have not a supply of provisions for two days. Our hunters, owing to a bad dream, or some other superstitious notion, think that they cannot kill, and therefore make no attempt, notwithstanding animals arc numerous. In the civilized parts of the world, when provisions are scarce in one place, they can generally be obtain- ed from some other place, in the vicinity. But the case is otherwise with us. When destitute, . i Harmon's journal. 107 we must wait until Providence sends us a supply ; and we sometimes think it rather tardy in com- Thursday, 18. An Indian has just arrived, who , brings the intelHgence, that forty lodges of Crees and Assiniboins, who the last spring, in company with forty lodges of other tribes, set out on a war party, are returning home. They separated at Battle River from their allies, who, the messenger says, crossed that river, to go and make peace with their enemies, the Rapid and Black-feet In- dians. The tribes last mentioned, inhabit the country lying along the foot of the Rocky Moun- tain, between the Sisiscatchwin and Missouri Riv- ers. Both parties begin to be weary of such bloody wars, as have long been carried on between them, and are much disposed to patch up a peace, on almost any terms. Thus do ruinous wars, wag- ed by restless and ambitious people, in civilized and savage countries, lay waste and destroy the comforts of mankind. i Sunday, October 16. This afternoon there fell a little snow, which is the first we have had, this fall. It is now several days since the X. Y. people arrived from the Grand Portage ; but they give us no news of Mr. McGillies and his company; neither would they, were their condition ever so '4 108 HARMON 8 JOURNAL. bad. Neither company will convey to the other the least intelligence, that at all concerns their af- fairs in this country. The North West Company look upon the X. Y. Company as encroachers upon their territories ; and, I think, with some reason, since the former company first led the way into this savage country ; while the latter people think, that the former have no more right to trade in this part of the world, than themselves. This jarring of interests, keeps up continual misunderstandings, and occasions frequent broils between the contend- ing parties ; and to such a height has their enmity risen, that it has, in several instances, occasioned blood shed. But here the murderer escapes with- out punishment ; for the civil law does not extend its protection, so far into the wilderness. I under- stand, however, that measures are in contempla- tion in England, which will remedy this evil. If something should not be done soon, I fear many of us may lose our lives! ?»*.*. Wednesday, 19. About six inches of snow have fallen. Mr. M' Gillies and company arrived from the Grand Portage, and delivered me letters from my friends in the United States ; and I rejoiced to hear that they were in health and prosperity. Saturday, 22. This afternoon, one of our men^ an Iroquois, died ; and it is thought the founda- tion was laid for his death, by too great an exer- Harmon's journal. 109 •ur men. tion of his strength at the portages, on his way in- to the country. The death of our people is not unfrequently occasioned by this circumstance. Sunday^ JVovember 6. On the 28th ult. we sent eight of our men, on horseback, into the plains, to look for buffaloes ; and they returned this even- ing, with their hoises loaded with the flesh of those animals. They say that they are still three days' march from this. '^ ^ •'■ * • tw Tuesday, December 27. Messrs. Henry and Goedike, my companions and friends, are both ab- sent, on excursions into two different parts of the country. I sensibly feel the loss of theii society, and pass, occasionally, a solitary hour, which would glide away imperceptibly, in their company. When they are absent, I spend the greater part of my time in reading and writing. Now and then I take a ride on horseback, in the neighbourhood of the fort, and occasionally I visit our neighbours, drawn in a cariol by horses, if the snow is light, or by dogs, if it is deep. This afternoon, I ac- companied Mr. M^^Gillies, to pay a visit to our X. Y. neighbours. . Wednesday, February 22, 1804. Lac La Peche, or Fishing Lake. This lies about two day's march into the large plains, west from Alexandria, w^cE place I left on the 15th ultimo, accompanied by twelve of our people. I have come here to 110 HARMON S JOURNAL. >:.'Wf»V - pass the winter, by the side of the X. Y. people. For some time after our arrival, we subsisted on rose buds, a kind of food neither very palatable nor nourishing, which we gathered in the fields. They were better than nothing, since they would just support life. When we should procure any thing better, I knew not, as the buflfaloes at that time, in consequence of the mild weath(}r, were a great distance, out in the large plains, and my hunters could find neither moose nor d(;er. We hoped, however, that a merciful God would not fiaSer us to starve ; and that hope has not been disappointed, for we have now provisions in abundance, for which we endeavour to be thank- ful. '«:•; I rr f?r>:>, :,^f*V■^.>.*]^^^v>^^ai^ <.||^ Wi** i'fc5»^--- .- On the llth instant, I took one of my interpre- ters and ten labouring men with me, and proceed- ed several days' march into the wilderness, Tvhere we found a camp of upwards of thirty lodges of Crees and Assiniboins, of whom we made a good purchase of furs and provisions. They were en- camped on the summit of a hill, whfence we had an extensive view of the surrounding country, which was low and level. Not a tree could ha seen, as far as the eye could extend ', and thousands of buffa- loes were to be seen grazing, in dilferent parts of the plain. In order to kill them, the Natives in large bands, mount their horses, rjn them down HARMOli S JOURNAL. Ill and shoot, with their bows ami arrows, what num- ber they please, or drive them into parks and kill them at their leisure. In fact, those Indians, who reside in the large plains or prairies, are the most independent, and appear to be the most con- tented and happy people upon the face of the earth. They subsist upon the flesh of the buffa- loe, and of the skins of that animal they make the greatest part of their clothing, which is both warm and convenient. Their tents and beds are also made of the skins of the same animal. '? The Grecs and Assiniboins procure their livelihood with so much ease, that they have but little to confine them at home. They therefore employ much of their time, in waging war with their neighbours. "*t>^?^^^ Thursday, March 1. Es-qui-un-a-wach-a, or the last Mountain, or rather Hill ; for there are no mountains in this part of the country. Here I arrived this evening, having left Lac La Peche on the 28th ultimo, in company with my interpreter and seven men. The men, I ordered to encamp at a short distance from this, and to join me early tomorrow morning ; as it is more convenient and safe, especially when we are not in our forts, to give the Indians spirits to drink in the day time, than in the night. On our arrival, we were invit- ed to the tents of several of the principal Indians, %^ > • r * t 112 HARMOrs JOURNAL. ?■;' , % to eat and smoke our pipes. — Indians show great hospitality to strangers, before they have been long acquainted with civilized people, after which, they adopt many of their customs ; but they are by no means always gainers, by the exchange. Monday^ 6. On the 2nd, the remainder of our people arrived, and soon after, I commenced dealing out spirits to the Natives ; and they con- tinued to drink during all that day and the follow- ing night. We were, therefore, prevented from resigning ourselves to sleep. For though the In- dians are naturally well disposed toward the white people, and seldom begin a quarrel with us, and will even receive many insults, before they attempt to defend themselves; yet when drunk, they often behave like mad men or devils, and need to be narrowly watched. This morning, I sent six of my people to the fort with sledges loaded with furs and provisions, in order to obtain another supply of goods, to en- able us to go and trade with another large Land of Indians, who are about two days' march from this, into the plains. "^ Tuesday^ 6. JSorth side of the Great DeviVs Lake, or as the Natives call it, Much-e-matire-to Sd-ky-e- gun. As I had nothing of importance to attend to, while our people would bo absent in their trip to and from the fort, and was desirous of" seeing my HARMON S JOURNAL. 113 friend Henrjr, who, I understood, was about half a days' march from where I was the last night, I therefore, set oif this morning, accompanied by an Indian lad who serves as a guide, with the inten- tion of visiting this place. After walking all day, without finding either wood or water, and but a few inches of snow, just as the sun was descending below the horizon, we thought that we descried a small grove, at a considerable distance, directly before us. So long, therefore, as the light re- mained, we directed our course to that object; but as soon as the day light failed, we had noth- ing by which to guide ourselves, excepting the stars, which, however, answered very > ell, until even their faint twinkling was utterly obscured by clouds, and we were inveloped in total darkness. In this forlorn condition, we thought it best to continue bur march as well as we could ; for we were unwilling to lie down, with little or nothing with which to cover us, and keep ourselves from freezing. There was no wood, with which we could make a fire, nor buffaloe dung, which often serves as fuel, when travelling about in those plains. Neither could we find water to drink ; and without fire, we could not melt the snow, for this purpose. We suffered mucli for want of wa- ter, as we had nothing to eat but very dry provis- ions, which greatly excited thirst.^ — To be tlepriv- 15 M 114 HARMON S JOURNAL. ed of drink for one day, is more distressing than to \ be destitute of food for two. — It would not have ^ been safe for us to encamp, without a fire ; for we should have been continually exposed to be trodden upon by the large herds of buffaloes, that are perpetually roving about in the plains, or to be devoured by the wolves, which ever follow the buffaloe. We therefore continued travelling, un- certain whither we were going, until at length, the dogs that drew my sledge, suddenly passed by us, as if they saw some uncommon object, di- rectly before us. We did not attempt to impede their motion, but followed them as fast as we could, until they brought us to the place where we now are. — It is almost incredible that my dogs should have smelt this camp at such a dis- tance ; for we walked vigorously no less than four hours after they passed us, before we arrived here. If: We are happy in finding fifteen tents of Crees and Assiniboins, who want for none of the dainties of this country • and I meet, as usual, with a very hospitable reception. The mistress of the tent where I am, unharnessed my dogs, ana put my sledge, &c., into a safe place. She was then proceeding to give food to my dogs, which labour, I offered to do myself; but she told me to remain quiet and smoke my pipe, for Harmon's journal, ]15 she added, " they shall be taken good care of, and will be as safe in my hands, as they would be were they in your own." — Notwithstanding it walP^ near midnight when I arrived, yet at that late ^ hour, the most of the Indians rose, and many of them invited me to their tents, to eat a few mouthfuls, and to smoke the sociable pipe. But now, all those necessary ceremonies are over; and I am happy in being able to lay my- self down on buffaloe robes, by the side of a warm fire, expecting to obtain sweet and refresh- ing repose, which nature requires, after a day's march so fatiguing. If 1 was ever thankful for ; any of God's favours, it is, to find myself here among friends, and in comfortable circumst^xnces, when, a few hours before, I expected to wander with weariness, anxiety and danger, during the whole night, in the open plain. Wednesday, 7. Canadian's Camp. This place is so called from the fact, that a niimber of our people have passed the greater part of the winter here. As there is a good foot path from the place where I slept the last night to this place, I left my young guide, and came here alone. Frequently on the way, I met Indians, who are going to join those at the Devil's Lake. I came here in the pleasing expectation of seeing my friend, Henry ; but I am disappointed. Yes- '•\ 'I '4' '.■*•, 116 Harmon's journal. ■MM^^ *l.-:\ terday morning, he set out for Alexandria. I hope to have the satisfaction, however, of soon ^Jtoeeting him at the fort. — I here find six Canadians rith their families, who have passed the winter in this vicinity, and have subsisted upon the flesh of the buffaloe, which animals are found in plenty. The people appear to be happy in their situation. Indeed, a Canadian, with his belly full of fat meat, is never otherwise. * * Friday, 9. JVorth side of DeviVs Lake. In the morning, I left the Canadian's Camp, and this afternoon reached this place, where I found my young guide, waiting my return. He is the son of a chief, among the Crees and Assiniboins. His grandfather was Monsieur Florimeaux, a French- man, who passed a number of years in the Indian country. When he went to Canada, he took his son, the father of my youngguide, along with him, as far as Quebec, intending to send him to France. But the lad, who was then twelve or thirteen years old, did not like to leave his native country. After remaining in Canada for some time, there- fore, he deserted and returned to this part of the world, where he, in time, became a famous war- rior, and at length, a chief. He is much respect- ed and beloved by his relatives, and is revered by his own family. As a husband he is affectionate, and as a father he is kind. It was perhaps fortu" r' . HARMON'S JOURNAL. 117 nate for him that he did not go to France ; for, I am persuaded he could not have lived more happily and at ease, in any part of the world, than in this independent country, which is abundantly supplied with all of the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life. ^,^^ n Saturday, 10. In the middle of an extensive plain. Early in the morning, accompanied by my young guide, I left our last night's lodgings, to go to the place where I expect to find my people, which is about two days' march further into the great plain, than where I separated from my inter- preter, on the 6th inst. After walking all day^ without finding either wood or water, at eight o'clock at night, we have concluded to lay our- selves down, in order if possible, to get a little rest. | In the day time, the snow melted a little ; but in the evening it has frozen hard, and our feet and our legs, as high as our knees, are so much cover- ed with ice, that we cannot take of our shoes ; and having nothing with which to make a fire, in order to thaw them, we must pass the night with them on. A more serious evil is, the risk me must run of being killed by wild beasts. - • .^ - Sunday, 1 1. Ca-ta-buy-se-pu, or the River that calls. This stream is so named by the supersti- tious Natives, who imagine that a spirit is constant- ly going up or down it ; and they say that they f- ' •. i 118 HARMON'S JOURNAL. I. ' ' « «♦. often hear its voice distinctly, which resembles the cry of a human being. The last night was so un- ^^leasant to me, that I could not sleep, arising in part from the constant fear which I was in, of be- ing torn in pieces before the morning, by wild beasts. Despondency to a drqrree took possession of my spirit. But the light of the morning dissi- pated my fears, and restored to my mind, its usu- al cheerfulness. As soon as the light of day ap- peared, we left the place where we had lain, not a little pleased, that the wild beasts had not fall- en upon us. It has snowed and rained all day. — ^f^ere I find my interpreter, and eighty tents, or nearly two hundred men, with their families. — Along the banks of this rivulet, there is a little timber, consisting principally of the inferiour spe- cies of the maple ; but no where else, is there even a shrub to be seen. The surrounding coun- try is a barren plain, where nothing grows except- ing grass, which rises from six to eight inches in height, and furnishes food for the buffaloe. 4i Here again, as usual, I meet with a kind re- ception. These Indians seldom come thus far into the plains, as the part of the country where we now are, belongs to the Rapid Indians. A white man was never before known, to penetrate so I ar. /.','.« v* ^p«*'*\' n •'>ff Wedmsday, 14. Last evening my people re- t"1 Harmon's journal. 119 turned from the fort ; and as I now had spir- its for the Natives, they, of course, drank during the whole night. Being so numerous, they made > a terrible noise. They stole a small keg of spir- its from us, and one of them attempted to stab me. The knife went through my clothes, and just graz- ed the skin of my body. To day 1 spoke to the Indian who made this attempt, and he cried like a child, and said, he had nearly killed his father, meaning me, and asked me why I did not tie him, when he had lost the use of his reason. — My peo- ple inform me that there is little or no snow, for three days' march from this ; but that after that, there is an abundance, all the way to the fort. .^ Friday, 16. About twelve o'clock, we left the Indians' camp ; but being heavily loaded, consider- ing there is no snow and our property is drawn by dogs on sledges, we made slow progress. After we had encamped, we sent our dogs, which are twenty two in number, after the buffaloe ; and they soon stopped one of them, when one of our party went and killed him with an axe, for we have not a gun with us. It is, however, impru- dent for us to venture thus far, without fire arms ,; for every white man, when in this savage country, ought at all times to be well armed. Then he need be under little apprehension of an attack j^ for Indians, when gober, are not inclined to hazard 120 Harmon's journal. iH f their lives, and when they apprehend danger from quarrelling, will remain quiet and peaceable. ^siH Saturday^ i7. JYorth West end of DevWs Lake. The weather is extremely mild, for the season. The surrounding country is all on fire ; but happi- ly for us, we are encamped in a swampy place. When the fire passes over the plains, which cir- cumstance happens almost yearly, but generally later than this, great numbers of horses and buffa- loes are destroyed ; for those animals when sur- rounded by fire, will stand perfectly still, until they are burned to death. — -This evening, we killed an- other buffaloe, in the same manner as we killed one, the last evening. - .m^.; ' Sunday, 18. The weather is still mild, and we see many grass-hoppers, which appear unusually early in the season. As I found that we were ' coming on too slowly with our heavy loads, about twelve o'clock, I left our property in charge of three of my people, and am going to the fort with the others, for horses to come for it. This afternoon we met several of the X. Y. people, who were in search of Indians ; but from the information they received from us, they thought them at too great a distance, and they are, therefore, accompanying us to the fort. — 3.he same success has attended us this evening, which we met with the two preceding days, in re- Harmon's journal. 121 gard to supplying ourselves with food. Indeed, in these plains, where bufTaloes are numerous, it is not customary, nor is it needful for people who are travelling, to burden themselves with provisions ; for if thej have fire arms, they can always kill a sufficiency for the day. This renders travelling cheap and convenient, nrsf ttj f>^ ! '.^^^1 •I* Thursday^ 22. Lac la Peche. Here tve have arrived, and I am happy in reaching a place, where I can take a little repose, after so long and fatig- uing a jaunt. Yet it has been in many respects, both pleasant and profitable. The country which I travelled over was beautifully situated, and over- spread with buffaloes, and various other kinds of animals, as well as many other delightful objects, which in succession presented themselves to our view. These things made the day glide away al- most imperceptibly. But there were times, when my situation was far from being agreeable ; they, however, soon passed away, and we all have abun- dant reason to render thanks to a kind Providence, for his protection, and for our safe return to our home and our families. ■'* "* ' ' ' At three different times, while performing the tour above described, I was in great danger of losing my life, by the evil machinations of the Na- tives. One escape has been already mentioned, when one of them attempted to stab me. While 16 m 122 HARMON 8 JOURNAL. id jj V I was dealing out spirits to the Savages, at the last mountain, on the night of the 5th inst. an Indian, who was inuch intoxicated, told me, that I should never see another sun arise ; and he, unquestiona- bly, intended to kill me. The night following, af- ter I arrived at the north side of the Devil's Lake, I was well received by the greater part of the Na- tives there ; but as I have «ince been informed, one of them had resolved to take my life. And yet, this villain invited me to his tent, and I visited it, without suspicion.' He was prevented from executing his purpose by my host, who was ac- quainted with his purpose, and told him that he must first despatch him ; for, he added, ' Fitch-e- mo-cum-mon' (that is Big Kife, which is the name that they give me,) ' is my brother, and iias taken up his lodging with me, and it therefore becomes me to defend him and his property.' No Indian will suffer a stranger, if he be able to defend him, to be injured, while in his tent, and under his pro- tection.' Therefore, he who had intended to massacre me, thought it best to remain quiet. This hostile Indian had nothing against me, but that I was a friend to a person who he considered had injured him ; and as this person was at a great dis- tance, and therefore beyond his reach, he was re- solved to avenge the affront upon me. It is the custom of all the Savages, not to be very particu- Harmon's journal. 123 lar on whom the punishment of an offence falls, whether the guilty person, or a relation or friend of this person. The first of these whom he hap- pens to meet, becomes the object of his ven- geance ; and then his wrath is appeased, and he will not even lift his hand against the person who has offended him. '^ *^-^' ^^ Saturday, 24. Yesterday, Mr. F. Gocdike ar- rived from Alexandria, and delivered me a letter from Mr. M'^Gillies, requesting me to abandon Lac la Pfeche, and proceed, with ail my people, to Alex- andria. In the fore part of the day, we all left the former place. There is a woman with us, be- longing to one of our men, who has walked the whole day, in the snow and water, and who, this evening, gave birth to a son. ^ . Tuesday, 27. Alexandria. Here we arrived this afternoon. The woman who, on the 24th. inst. was delivered of a child, took it on her shoulders the day following, and continued her march, as though nothing unusual had occurred ! It is a very happy circumstance, that the women of this country are blessed with such strong constitutions, as they would otherwise be utterly unable to en- dure the hardships to which they are often expos- ed, and particularly in child-birth. ■ ^^j r-^r-^ /Wf-rt -i Monday, April 9. Yesterday, the ice in this river broke up ; and to day, we sent off four mea ^'^■- 124 HARMON S JOURNAL. is ,■' ' >'*( % jv, ; i '^ . m a boat, loaded with pimican, to be transported as far as the entrance of Winipick River. — The country all around us, is on fire. z...-. ,a.^, + -.^ Sunday, 29. Yesterday, the greater part of our people set out for Swan River ; and to day, Mr. ]Vr Gillies, and the most of those who were left, have departed for the New Fort, which is distant about forty five miles, to the north west from the former general rendezvous, the Grand Portage, which the Americans hcUY« obliged us to abandon. * ' ' ^. It i» thought necessary that I should pass an- other summer at this place ; but I am happy in having with me my friends Henry and Goedike. There are here also one interpreter and several labouring men, besides women and children. We are preparing a piece of ground for a garden, the culti.vation of which, will be an amusement ; and the produce of it, we hope, will add to our com- forts. Mr. Goedike plays the violin, and will occa- sionally cheer our spirits, with an air. But the most of our leisure time, which is at least five sixths of the whole, will be spent in reading, and in meditating and conversing upon what we read. How valuable is the art, which multiplies books, ' with great facility, and at a moderate expense. Without, thera the wheels of time would dfag heavily, in this wilderness. » Urn ti - 4|t :q -1 HARMON^S JOURNAL. 125 Tuesday, May 22. The seeds which we put into the ground on the 10th inst. have sprung up, and grow remarkablj well.- " ' " i^." "^Tuesday, 29. During the last forty eight hours, it has rained without cessation ; and I think 1 never witnessed so great a fall of water, within the same space of time. The river has overflow- ed its banks.^ to £i much greater distance than is common ; and our garden, which is not far from it, now lies under water. ••' •*! -. - -— Thursday, 31. In the morning, Mr. Goedike, Collin, my interpreter, a young lad and myself, set off for the purpose of paying a visit to our X. Y. neighbours. On leaving the fort, we had the river to croso, which, in consequence of the late rains, is about sixty rods broad. Our only means of cross- ing it was a canoe, made of the skins of buflaloes, which, on account of the length of time that it had been in the water, began to be rotten. Be- fore we reached the other side of the river, the canoe was nearly half filled with water. We drew it on shore, mounted our horses, visited our neighbours, and returned to the place where we had left our canoe, at about three o'clock P. M. Having repaired it a little, we embarked, for the purpose of returning to the fort. iVe soon per- ceived that the water came into the canoe very fast ; and we continued paddling, in hope of reach- # 126 HARMON'S JOURNAL. i ing the opposite shore, before it would fill. . We were, however, sadly disappointed ; for it became full, when we had gone about one third of the dis- tance ; but it did not immediately overset. The water, in that place, was about five feet deep ; but the current was strong, and it soon carried us to a place where we could not reach the bottom, and the canoe overset. We all clung to it and, thus drifted a considerable distance, until the ca- noe was, at length, stopped by a few willows, whose tops rose above the water. Here I had a moment, in which 1 could reflect on our truly de- plorable condition, and direct my thoughts to the means of relief. My first object was, if possible, to gain the shore, in order to free myself from my clothes, which I could not do where I then was. But my great coat, a heavy poniard, boots, &c. rendered it very difficult for me to swim ; and I had become so torpid, in consequence of having been so long in the cold water, that before I had proceeded one third of the way to the shore, 1 sunk, but soon rose again, to the surface of the water. I then exerted myself to the utmost; but, notwithstanding, soon sunk a second time, i now considered that I must inevitably drown ; the objects of the world retired from my view, and my mind was intent only upon approaching death ; yet I was not afruid to meet ray dissolu- '*^^si Harmon's journal. 127 tion.* I however made a few struggles more, which happily took me to a small tree that stood on what is usually the bank of the river, but which is now some rods distant from dry land, I remained there for sometime, to recover strength, and at length pro- ceeded to the shore ; and as soon as I had gained it, my mind rose in ardent gratitude to my gra- cious Preserver and deliverer, who had snatched me from the very jaws of death ! / was now safe on shore ; but the condition of my unfortunate companions, was far different. They had still hold of the canoe in the middle of the river, and by struggling were just able to keep themselves from sinking. We had no other craft, with which to go upon the water, nor could any of our people swim, who were standing on the shore, the mel- ancholly spectators of this scene of distress. I therefore tooJ<. off my clothes, and threw myself, a second time, into the water, in order, if possible, to afford some aid to my companions. When I had reached the place where they were, I direct- ed the boy, to take hold of the hair of my head, and I took him to a staddle, at no great distance, ) ■ * For at that time, 1 wa« if norant of my lost condition by nature, and of the necessity of being clothed in a better righ- teousnesB than my own, to prepare me to appear with safety before a holy God, in judgment. Mfi -t ',-**. »^ 128 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 1 Hki f and directed him to lay fast hold of it, by which means he would be able to keep the greater part of his body above water. I then returned to the canoe, and took Collin to a similar place. Mr. Goedike had alone proceeded to a small staddle, and would have reached the shore, had not the cramp seized him in one of his legs. I next tried to take the canoe ashore, but could not alone effect it. I therefore, swam to the op- posite shore, caught a horse and mounted him, and made him swim to the canoe, at one end of which I tied a cord, and taking the other end in my teeth and hands, after drifting a considerable distance, I reached the land. After repairing the canoe a little, I proceeded to my three wretched fellow creatures, who had, by this time, become nearly lifeless, having been in the water at least two hours. By the aid of a kind Providence, however, they at last safely reached the shore ; and so deeply were they affected with their un- expected escape, that they prostrated them- selves to the earth, in an act of thanksgiving, to their great and merciful Deliverer. ."♦' J**'*^ !«*• "^ Sunday, July 1. We now begin to have straw- berries, and the prospect is, that they will be abundant. - ■ - -■ < ■ • . -»- , Tuesday, 17. On the 8th instant, some In- dians ran away with three of our horses ; and on HARMON'S JOURNAL. 1S9 !<■■ ilTJH«i»Jl the following morning, Mr. Goedike and myself mounted two others, to pursue the thieves. We followed them for two days, and then, ascer- taining that they were so far in advance of us, and travelled so fast, that it would be impossible to overtake them, before thoy would reach their camp, which is six or seven days' march from this, we ceased following them. We di«"?cted our course another way, for the piirpose of finding buffaloe, but without success. We, however, kill- ed as many fowls, in the small lakes, as we need- ed for daily consumpt'on ; and this evening re- turned to the fort, having had on the whole a pleasant ride. :,«»- ..i - .. ^>.- ^ * . .,^ .^..,^^.,v.- .v*r- We have had a frost, so hard, that it has in- jured many things in our garden. *i*^ |.v«i^.tt»^•v Wednesday, 25. An Indian has arrived here with six horses, who states, that he came directly from the territory of the Black feet Indians. He brings the intelligence, that this tribe have con- cluded a peace with the Crees and Assiniboins; and that forty tents of the latter tribes, who went into that quarter, two years since, are on their way home, and will reach this pl^oe before the commencement of winter. "•^' Saturday, September I. This afternoon, Mr. Ferguson and company arrived, from fort Dau- phin, bringing the intelligence, that all the Indians 17 Nil 130 HARMON S JOURNAL. t< 1 » i ' jiv 'If ' t. i *!,v ivho are accustomed to remain, in that vicinity, have now gone to the Great Winipick lake. iHfiM- •■! Thursday, October 4. This afternoon, Mr. Francis la Rocque arrived, from Montagne a la Basse, which lies about five days' march from this, down the river. He brought me letters from several gentle "len in this country, one of which is from Mr. Charles Cbaboillez, who informs me that this place will be supplied with goods, this season, by the way of the Red River, of which depart- ment he has the superintendence. As I am to pass the winter here, he desires me to accompa- ny Mr. La Rocque, down to Montagne a la Basse, and receive such goods as will be necessary for the Indians at this post, ^^i * j>^ t*'<^UM^*/> * T HARMON'S JOURNAL. 131 The fort is well built, and beautifully situated, on a very high bank of the Red River; and over- looks the country round to a great extent, whicb is a perfect plain. There can be seen, at almost all seasons of the year, from the fort gate, as I am informed, buffaloes grazing, or antelopes bounding over the extensive plains, which cannot fail to render the situation highly pleasant. I spent my time there very pleasantly, during eight days, in company with the gentlemen above mentioned. At times, we would mount our horses, and ride out into the plains, and frequently try the speed of our beasts. On the 19th, I left that enchanting abode, in company with Messrs. Chaboillez, M^Kenzie, &c., and the day following, arrived at Riviere qui Apelle, where we found the peo- ple, waiting our arrival. They ^ame here by water ; but at this season, canoes go up no fur- ther, on account of the shallowness of the river. The goods intended for Alexandria, therefore, must be taken from this on horse back. Accord- ingly, we delivered out to the people such articles as we thought necessary, and sent them oflf ; and the day following, Mr. Chaboillez returned to Montagne a la Basse, and Mr. M^Kenzie and my- self proceeded to Alexandria, where we arrived this afternoon, after having made a pleasant jaunt of twenty one days., -^A,, <|jm' !»«ii'»-oi .'• I. \ ,> i •? i .*;t Ii.i.i 132 Harmon's journal.. fi I .r S i ! \ a Here I shall pass the winter, having with me Mr. Goedike, two interpreters, twenty labouring men^ fourteen women and sixteen children. Saturday, JVovemher 24. Some people have just arrived from Montagne a la Basse, with a letter from Mr. Chaboillez, who informs me, that two Captains, Clarke and Lewis, with one hund- red and eighty soldiers, have arrived at the Man- dan Village on the Missouri River, which place is situated about three days' march distant from the residence of Mr. Chaboillez. They have in- vited Mr. Chaboillez to visit them. It is said, that on their arrival, they hoisted the American flag, and informed the Natives that their object was not to trade, but merely to explore tht coun- try ; and that as soon as the navigation shall open, they design to continue their route across the Rocky Mountain, and thence descend to the Pa- cific Ocean. They made the Natiyes a few small presents, and repaired their guns, axes, d^c, gratis. Mr. Chaboillez writes, that they behave honour^ ably toward his people, who are there to trade with the Natives. ■*'^'^' ^^Hfe "i*4i' liiiKntt.Ji* '"n^**!! f * "^ Tuesday, January 21,1805. For nearly a month, we have subsisted on little besides potatoes ; but thanks to a kind Providence, the last night, two of tny men returned from the plains, with their sledg- es loaded with the flesh of the buffHloe. They HARMON'S JOURNAL. 133 bring us the pleasing intelligence, that there is a plenty of these animals within a day's march of us. This supply of provisions could not have come more opportunely, for our potatoes are almost gone. About a month since, I sent Mr. Goedike, ac> companied by ten men, out into the -plains, in hopes that they might fall in with the Natives, who would be able to furnish us with food ; but we have heard nothing from them, and I cannot conjecture what should have detained them so long, as I did not expect that they would be absent^ for more than ten days, from the fort. ^. - ,... Thursday, February 7. At the most of the forts in the Swan River department, they have not a sufiiciency of provisions ; and they have therefore, sent the greater number of their peo- ple, to pass the remainder of the winter here. We now have bulfaloe in abundance, though our family consists of upwards of seventy persons, who consume, at least, four hundred and fifty pounds, daily. f'*i.it\^:''fr ma .:/3/ Mi-^^'vdiSiH^-iM' Thursday, 19. On the 8th inst. two men ar- rived from Montagne k la Basse, with a packet of letters, informing me, that a coalition took place, the last autumn at Montreal, bet^veen the North West and the X. Y. companies, which letters I have forwarded to Fort des Prairies. ^»5. ♦ ; uiffu tu I: 134 HARMON^S JOURNAL. 1 ii, p * til ' 1,1 •' I t i. . i ^ '■ s.« On the 16th inst. I left this, in a cariol, drawn by a horse, to visit a place, about two days' march from this, into the plains, were a number of our people have passed a greater part of the winter : and in the course of this pleasant ride, I saw thou- H Saturday, March % People arrived from Fort dee Prairies, with letters from that place, the English River, and Athabasca. — Yesterday, swans passed this place, on their way to the north- ward. ' ' '. ' Monday^ 18. A band of Crees and Assiniboins came in, a few days since, consisting of more than a hundred persons. As they brought a considera- ble quantity of furs and provisions, they were j;.ole to purchase a large supply of spirits for several days, and of course continued drinking, until tl^eir means were exhausted. During this period, one of the Assiniboins stabbed one of the Crees. The wound, however, is not thought to be mortal. The injury has been atoned for, therefore, by a horse, presented by the aggressor, to the wounded In- dian ; and now, they appear to be as great friends, as they were before the quarrel took place. , ; „ ,f _ , . . ,., It is a common thing among all the Natives, ' for an offender to offer property in satisfaction for an injury j and when this is accepted by the in- HARMON^S JOURNAL. 135 f >* ■f'j'vif-j ^ .#■*■ jtired party, contention between them entirely ceases. Even murder is, sometimes, in this ' way, atoned for; but not commonly. In ordinary cases, nothing but the death of the murderer, or of some of his near relations, will satisfy the desire of revenge in an Indian, whose relative has been murdered. •« i*umf Mi:tf>-f'ttt' ^f*if».H.i .mF^nvHi Wednesday, Jpril 10. On the 24th ult. I set out on horse back, accompanied by one man, for Montagne a la Basse. When we arrived there, we were not a little surprised to find the fort gates shut, and about eighty tents of Crees and Assiniboins encamped in a hostile manner, around it, and threatening to massacre all the white peo- ple in it. They, in a menacing manner, threw balls over the palisades, and told our people to gather them up, declaring that they would proba- bly have use for them in the course of a few days.* After having passed several days there, I set out"^ to return home. Just as I had gotten out of the fort gate, three villainous Indians approached me; and one of them seized my horse by the bridle and stopped him, saying, that the beast belonged to him, and that he would take him from me. I told him that he had disposed of him to Mr. Chaboillez, who had charge of the post ; and that of this gentleman, I had purchased him, and that I had no concern with the matter, whiirfi was whol- fw 136 Harmon's journal. si '■^VU Bj I'l'i ,. . \y between him and Mr. Chabolllez. Perceiving, however, that he was determined not to let go of the bridle, I gave him a smart blow on his hand, with the but end o{ my whip, which consisted of a deer's hor. , and instantly striking my horse, I caused him to spring forward, and leave the Indian behind. Finding myself thus clear of this fel- low, I continued my rout ; but he with one of his companions, followed us nearly half of the day, if not longer. After this length of time we saw no more of them. Apprehensive, however, that they might fall upon us in our encampment at night, and steal our horses, and probably massacre us, after it became dark, we went a little out of the path, and laid ourselves down ; but we dared not make a fire, lest the light or the smoke should discover the place where we were. * '• ■* On my return, I passed four days agreeably, at Riviere qui Apelle, in the company of a number of gentlemen, whom I found there. On leaving that place, I was obliged to cross the river, and at this late season, the ice was bad. My horse, while I was on him, fell through the ice twice, and the last time, I came very near passing under it; but a kind Providence once more, granted me de- liverance. ..,;,,„. While at Montagne a la Basse, Mr. Chaboillez, induced me to consent to undertake a long and Harmon's journal. 137 arduous tour of discovery. I am to leave that place, about the beginning of June, accompanied by six or seven Canadians, and by two or three In- dians. The first place, at which we shall stop, will be the Mandan Village, on the Missouri Riv- er. Thence, we shall steer our course towards the Rocky Mountain, accompanied by a number of the Mandan Indians, who proceed in that di- rection every spring, to meet and trade with another tribe of Indians, who reside on the other side of the Rocky Mountain. It is expected that we ahall return from our excursion, in the month of November next*. « •» ■ [This journev I never undertook; for soon af- ter the plan of it was settled, my health became so much impaired, that I was under the necessity of proceeding to Head Quarters, to procure med- ical assistance. A Mr. La Rocque attempted to make this tour ; but went no farther than the Mandan Village.] *? Thursday^ 18. We are packing our furs, in order to send them to the general rendezvous ; and a few days hence, I shall abandon this fort, and the Indians in this vicinity will go either into the region of Riviere qui Apelle, or up the SisisK catchwin' River, near Fort des Prairies. .■-» f^Sunday, May 5. We are now about three leagues below Alexandria, which place we aban^ 18 138 HARMON'S JOURNAL. % \\ '), IrM' '111 \m- ■■<' -' i'i doned on the 28th ult. All our property is on board of boats ; but sonie of us travel on horse- back. As it has not rained since the last Autumn, the water in the river is uncommwily low, on ac- count of which, our boats make but poor progress. As we have a pit saw with us, I have directed some of my people to go into the woods, and saw a sufficient quantity of boards, to constiuct another boat, by means of which, we may reduce the load- ing, ) those that we now possess. Wednesday, 8. Riviere qui J^pelle. On the 6th Mr. Goedike and several other persons with myself, left our boats, and proceeded on horse- back. As the fire has passed over the plains, this spring, it was with difficulty that we could find grass, sufficient for the subsistence of our horses. .■, -^.n ■■■ _,,..• rr-^^ ,■ : Monday, 20. Montagne tin Basse, Here I have been waiting ever since the 15th for the ar- rival of our boats. They arrived this afternoon. 1*^ Monday, 27. Riviere a la Souris, or Mouse River. This is about Mty miles from Montagne a la Basse. Here are three establishments, form- ed severally by the North West, X. Y. and Hud- son Bay companies. .^iy f'-^- ■■-4fckiji. w '% ■ T*«# . Last evening, Mr. Chaboillez invited the people of the other two forts to a dance ; and we had a real North West country ball. When three fourths Hf HARMON S JOURNAL. 139 of the people had drunk so much, as to be incapa- ble of walking straightly, the other fourth thought it time to put an end to the ball, or rather bawl. This morning, we were invited to breakfast at the Hudson Bay House, with a Mr. M^Kay, and in the evening to a dance. This, however, ended more decently, than the one of the preceding evening. ^ It is now more than fifty years, since a French missionary left this place. He had, as I am inform- ed, resided here, during a number of years, for the purpose of instructing the Natives in the Christian religion. He taught them some short prayers, in the French language, the whole of which some of them have not yet forgotten. W The surrounding country consists chiefly of plains ; and the soil appears to be richer, than that which is farther up the river. Tuesday, 30. In the morning, I left Mouse River; and I have with me upwards of forty men, in five boats and seven canoes. a uvxysii ' ■^ Saturday, June 1. We arc now a little below what was called the Pine Fort. It is twenty years since this fort was built, and eleven since it was abandoned. This River is now so low, aris- *^ ing from the fact that we have had no rain this spring, and we have such a number of boats and canoes, that we drive the sturgeon upon the sand bankr, where there is but little water ; and we m 140 HARMON'S JOURNAL. have no difficulty in killing any number of them, that we [)lease. We novvsubsist entirely on these fish ; and they are excellent food, ^tm ®i'^vt8ui*>A* Thursday^ 13. Portage la Prairie, or Plain Portage. Here the North West company have a miserable fort, the local situation of which, is beau- tiful, beyond any thing that I have seen in his part of the world. Opposite the fort, iheie is a plain, which is about sixty miles long, and from one to ten broad, in the whole extent of which, not the least rise of ground is visible. — To this place, the Natives resort every spring, to take and dry stur- Saturday, 15. We are now encamped under a beautiful range of oaks, which separate the riv- er from a pretty extensive plain. Ever since we left Mouse River, the soil on each side of the Up- per Red River, down which we are passing, ap- pears to be excellent, and the timber is very dif- ferent from what it is near its source. We here find oak, elm, walnut, bass wood, &c. and I «'m ^r^- formed that there are grapes and plums in this vicinity. »i*'!»^ J »■>+«• t"^ ^ Tuesday, 18. Not far from the place where we are now encamped, there is a considerably large camp of Sauteux. Among them I saw an- other of my unfortunate countrymen, who, like one of whom I have already spoken, was taken HARMON'S JOURNAL. 141 from his parents, when a child. Thus, has many a fond mother, in the frontier settlements, been deprived of her beloved and tender offspring. — but this fellow is lost, beyond recovery, for he now^. Hpeaks no other language, but that of the Indians, among whom he resides, and he has adopted all their manners and customs ; and it would now be as difficult to reconcile him to the habits of civil- ized life, as it would be, were he a real Indian. Wednesday, 19. The Forks. At this place the Upper and Lower Red Rivers, form a junc- tion. The country around is pleasant, the soil ap- pears to be excellent, and it is tolerably well tim- bered with oak, basswood, walnut, elm, poplar, as- pin, birch, he. Grape vines &nd plum trees are also seen. Friday, tl. We are now enfcampel at the nlace, where the Red River enters the Great Win- ipick Lak^. It is now nearly five years since I pass- ed this place, whic'j, at first thought, seems but a moment. But when I deliberately recollect the scenes through which I have passed, during that space of time, it seems as if I had passed the greater part of my days in this country. - . ■ , Monday, 24. We are now at the entrance of Winipick River, into the Lake of the same name. Wo, here, find a number of people, who are from A'* 142 HARMON tj JOURNAL. i'J their respective winter quarters, and who, like our- selves, are on their way to the New Fort. **f««l Friday, July 5. Rainy Lake. On the margin of the waters, which connect this lake with the Great Winipick Lake, the wild rice is found, of which I have spoken on a former occasion. This useful grain is produced in no ther part of the North West Country ; though Carver erroneous- ly states, that it is found every where. It grows in water, about two feet deep, where there is a rich muddy bottom. It rises more than eight feet above the water ; and, in appearance bears p con- siderable resemblance to oats. It is gathered about the latter end of September, in the follow- ing manner. The Natives pass in among it in ca- noes. Each canoe has in it two persons, one of whom is in each end, with a long hooked stick, in one hand, and a straight one in the other. With the hooked stick, he brings the heads'of^he grain over the canoe, and holds it there ; while, with the other, he beats it out. When the canoe is thus sufficiently loaded, it is taken to the shore and emptied. This mode of gathering the wild rice, is evidently more simple and convenient, than that which was practised in Carver's day. This grain is gathered in such quantities, in this region, that, in ordinary seasons, the North West Company purchase, annually, from twelve to fifteen hundred Harmon's journal. ^ 143 bushels of it, from the Natives ; and it constitutes a principal article of food, at the posts in this yi- cinity. "' ' - * '* I have here received letters from my friends in Vermont, which left them in April last; and which have, as usual, afforded me much satisfac- tion. *.^- i^jm^'- mi$'^i->A*i t * .^'v''- K /«''. A' ■■,.','. ■ j>t^j, Saturday^ 6. Rainy Lake, We are about ten miles from the fort, on this lake ; and have been encamped, during the greater part of the day, in order that our people may repair their canoes ; for they will soon be obliged to transport them over a number of long portages. .,y^^. ^>*> vtJUonday 8. Cross Lake. Here we meet several canoes which, about the beginning of May last, left Montreal, that have goods on board, which will be carried in them to the Rainy Lake fort, and will thence be transported to Athabasca. — At this lake, we leave the route which leads to the old Grand Portage. ^utTuesday,^ 9. During the whole of this day, we have been crossing small lakes, and coming down what deserve the name of brooks, rather than rivers. — We have met eight canoes, on their way to the Rainy Lake. -i'-n^-^.^^,.', .,, Friday^ 12. The Plain Portage. In the for- mer part of the day, we met, A. N. M'^Leod, Esq. who is now from tJie New Fort, on his way back 144 Harmon's journal. Ij i t 4i to Athabasca. We went on shore, and took break- fast with him. He has taken with him my friend Mr. F. Goedike, a young man possessed of a good understanding, and a humane and generous heart, who has been with me for four years past, and from whom I could not separate, without regret. Saturday, July 13. Overtook the Swan River people, and entered Nipignon River, which is nearly ten rods broad. This and Dog's river, excepting a few carrying places, on account of rapids and falls, will carry us to the New Fort. The land in this vicinity is low, and in many pla- ces, it is swampy. There are few animals in this region, excepting moose, bears, and a few beavers and martins. This is the rout, by which the French, in former times, passed into the I *eriour. The Indians in this quarter, are a few Sauteux and Muscagoes. The latter, come from towards Hudson's Bay. v^ ^^y^s *^,- *v Sunday 14. Dog's Portage, which is about three miles over. After coming down Nipignon River, which is nearly fifty miles long, we enter- ed the Dog's Lake, which may be about forty miles in circumference, and by crossing which, we arriveQ at tnis piace. ■. .mm-vm't-m vtnitK'Wf^v. v^k-t^-,,-^!^, ^.«»' Monday 15. The Mountain Portage. Itere the water falls perpendicularly, about seventy feet. >The North West company have here a store Harmon's journal. 145 house, to which they send provisions, &c., from the New Fort, as the river from this to that place is generally shallow, and is full of rapids. Those, therefore, who are going into the interi- our, cannot take a full load, until they arrive at this place ; and here they usually take their sup- ply of provisions. Tuesday, 16. Mew Fort, or, as \i is called by the Natives, Kd-mi-ni-ti-qui-d, is built on the bank of Dog River, which is a considerable stream, that empties into Lake Superiour, about four or five hundreds rods below the fort. The vessel that runs on that lake, can come, with a part of her lading, quite up to the quay, before the fort. Here the French, before the English conquered Canada, had an establishment. We here meet a number of gentlemen, some of whom came this summer from Montreal, and others from different parts of the Interiour. There are also here, one thousand labouring men, the greater part of whom, are Canadians, who answer better in this country, for the service re- quired by the Company, than any other people would probably do. The country, for some considerable distance round, is covered with heavy timber, consisting of a kind of red pine, poplar, aspin, birch, cedar, &c., but the soil does not appear to be of the first 19 146 HARMON S JOURNAL. — rs quality. Potatoes, pease, oats, &c., however, grow tolerably well here, t^* , ri .'^y^ Monday, 22. I have passed several days, not unpleasantly, in the company of a number of young gentlemen. They now begin, however, to leave this, to return to their winter quarters; and to- morrow, I expect to depart, and to proceed for Fort des Prairies. As there will be two other young gentlemen in the same brigade, whom I know to be sociable and pleasant companions, I expect to have a pleasant passage to my winter quarters. ,1.- i^^ .^ . .. Wednesday, •iugust 28. During nearly a month past we have been coming through a coun- try, which I have already described. We are now at the Grand Rapid, where the Sisiscalichwin River disembogues into the north west part of Great Lake Winipick. This is a noble stream, ajbout two hundred fathoms broad. Thursday, September 5. Cumberland House. This fort stands on the north side of a considera- ble lake, called by the Natives, who in this vicini- ty are Muscagoes, Sturgeon Lake. The sturgeon are found in considerable plenty, in this lake. This post was established, thirty three years since, by Mr. Joseph Frobisher. At this place, the people who are destined to Fort des Prairies, and those who are proceeding to Athabasca, sep- Harmon's journal. 147 owever. arate. The former go up the Slslscatchwin Riv- er, and the latter up the English River. The latter, is so called, in honour of Mr. Joseph Fro- bisher, an Englishman, who was the first trader that ever went into that part of the country. — On the 30th ultimo, we crossed Lac Bourbon, which is about forty miles long, on which the North West Company had a fort, formerly ; but it was abandoned, in 1802. There are few mountains or hills to be seen, between this place and Lake Winipick. The country has a pretty heavy growth o( timber, and the soil is rich. In the lakes and rivers of this region, excellent fish are taken, such as sturgeon, white-fish, cat-fish, pike, pickefel, &c. This country abounds in fowls, among which are swans, bustards, geese, and many kinds of ducks. Moose are found in considerable plenty; there are a few black bears, otters, musk- rats and martins ; and rarely, a beaver is found. Saturday, September 21. So^th Branch Fort. This is about one hundred and twentv miles above the Fork, or the place where this river forms a junction with the North Branch, after which, it assumes the name of Sisiscatchwin River. Both branches take their rise in the Rocky Moun- tain, though at a distance of several hundred miles from each other. The South Branch pass- es through large plains ; but the country through 148 HARMON S JOURNAL. n^ % ' 'I << ill ■^1^ ^;l Aiv.-* which the other runs r yoody, particularly on the north side. From C uberland House to the Fork, the country on both sides of the river is covered with wood. In these woods, and the small plains that are here and there scattered among them, moose, red deer, &c., are to be found. ' ir;~;w^ t. This fort was put up the last summer, and two stores were built ; but the dwelling houses are still to be constructed. — I am informed that buffaloes are ill plenty within a half a day's march from this. There are four tribes of Indians, who come to trade at this establishment. They are the Crees, Assiniboins, Sauteux and Musca- goes. A few also of the Black fcit Indians resort here. * ' -*m««' ;-'-»< •. :^.- In coming up this river, we sa v many places, where forts have stood, some of which were abandoned thirty years since, and some at a later period. One, which was situated about six miles below this, was abandoned fifteen years since, on account of an attack from the Rapid Indians. The following circumstances, in regard to that affair, were related to me by Mons. Louis Chattel- lain, who, at that time, had charge of the fort. The Hudson Bay Company had a fort in the same neighbourhood, which was first attacked, by about one hundred and fifty Indians oh horse back ; / UARMON^S JOURNAL. 149 and the few people who were in it, excepting one man, who secreted himself, were killed. After they had taken out of the fort all the property which they could con'jreniently c^rry away with them, they set fire to the fort, and proceeded to the establishment of the North West Company, which was two hundred rods distant from that of Hudson Bay people, with the intention of treating it in a similar manner. The fort gates had providentially, been shut, previously to the approach of the Indians. There were in the fort, three men, and several women and children. The men took their stations in the block houses and bastions ; and when the Natives had come sufficiently near, fired upon tliem. The Indians, instantly returned the fire ; and the contest continued, until the night approached. The sav- age assailants, having had several of their party killed, and others severely wounded, while the people in the fort had sustained no injury, thought it best to retreat ; and after dragging their dead and dying into the river, they retired. But Mr. Chattellain did not think it prudent to remain there any longer. Accordingly, the day fol- lowing, thfey embarked all their property on board of several canoes, and proceeded down the river, about two hundred miles, where they com- menced building another fort. The only object 150 Harmon's journal. of the Indians, in attacking these forts, was plun- der. '* ' "•• i3f«iB«.i -.^4 ij . , '?*' 4 .' 5**'; »-'!i€i Jr Mr. WiUiain Smith and myself, together with fifteen labouring men, &c. are to pass the winter here ; and a few hundred paces from us, the Hud- son Bay people have a fort. -"-^ ■" Thursday, October 10. This day, a Canadian's daughter, a girl of about fourteen years of age, was offered to me ; and after mature considera- tion, concerning the step which I ought to take, I have finally concluded to accept of her, as it is customary for all gentlemen who remain, for any length of time, in this part of the world, to have a female companion, with whom they can pass their time more socially and agreeably, than to live a lonely life, as they must do, if single. If we can live in haimony together, my intention now is, to keep her as long as I remain in. this uncivilized part of the world ; and when I return to my na- tive land, I shall endeavour to place her under the protection of some honest man, wi.h whom she can pass the remainder of her days in this country, much more agreeably, than it would be possible for her to do, were she to be taken down into the civilized world, to the manners, customs and lan- guage of which, she would be an entire stranger. Her mother is of the tribe of the Snare Indians, whose country lies along the Rocky Mountain. •m n HARMON S JOURNAL. 151 The girl is said to have a mild disposition and an even temper, which are qualities very necessary to make an agreeable woman, and an affectionate partner. ... .>^ Thursday, JVovember 7. The river froze over the last night ; but we have yet had but little snow. vTKs 1 \ Saturday, March 15, 1806. This evening the northern express arrived ; and I am sorry to learn that no letters have come from Athabasca, this season. This failure is owing to the great depth of snow in that quarter. — Buffaloes have been found in plenty, within a few miles of the fort, during the whole winter. Ea?4fs r**^.^ ;ttiBi^<.i^^«&f t.r,,;^®?^ oh«^f- #f l^uesday, 25. The snow is chiefly dissolved, we have sent four men, about a day's march from this, to make sugar. Saturday, April 19. The greater part of our Indians have gone to wage war upon the Rapid Indians, their inveterate enemies, with whom they frequently patch up a peace, which, however, is generally of short continuance. m Monday, 28. This afternoon, the ice in this river broke up. — A few days since, a small war party of the Rapid Indians came and killed seve- ral Assiniboins, who were encamped within fif- teen miles of our fort. They also stabbed an old woman in several places, and scalped her, who. ■f >T 152 <#^HAHMON^S JOURNAL* notwithstanding, is stl!l alive, and, to appearance, likely to recover of her wounds. "^^ :% "^v '*; • Monday, June 2. Last evening, Messrs. J. Hughes and Alexander Stewart came here, on horse back, from the North Branch, which passes within fifteen miles from this. There, they left their canoes and people ; and on their return, they will continue their rout to the New Fort.— Mr. Smith and myself, ^if providence permit, "tre 'o pass the summer at this place, where we have three interpreters, four labouring men, and a number ol women and children. As my companion is a sen- sible, well informed and sociable young man, 1 hope to pass my time both pleasantly and profita- bly. ^)!**f«-,Jj^:'*ii^'tffe'»» ^**"''4ii0>.mi'*m j.«a«: Friday, August 8. Six Assiniboins have arriv- ed, and inform us, that about eighty tents of Creep and Assiniboins, with about as many of the Black feet Indians, were on their ^ay to wage war with the Rapid Indians, their common enemy. But the two former tribes quarrelled, in their march, re- specting a horse, which they both claimed, and which neither would relinquish. This circum- stance occasioned a battle betu'een them, which lasted during a day, in which twenty five of the Black feet indians^ and three of the Assiniboins, were killed. This put an end to ihe expedition, for this season. -^m ipi# <; »f HARMON'S JOUBNA(<. 103 earance. ■ V essrs. J. here, on h passes they left irn, they rt.-— Mr. e "^n pass e three imber of is a sen- ; man, I 1 profita- 1'. ikJ i . ve arriv- of Cree? le Black var with But the irch, re- led, and circum- a, which i of the iniboins, leditlon, ..i^\ Wednesday, September 3. Two men have ar- rived from Cumberland House, situated on Stur- geon Lake, who have brought me letters from my friends below, which communicate the melancholy intelligence, that my father, after a severe illness of but a (gw weeks, expired, on the 25th of June, 1805. The protector and guide of my youth, whom I revered and loved, 1 shall never more Bee in this world. It would have afforded me in- expressible satisfaction, could I have seen and con- versed with him, previously to his departure. But " the Judge of the earth has done right," and " his will be done." I am not left to mourn, under this severe bereavement, without consolation ; for his christian character and profession, afford the com- fortable hope, that he has ceased to sin and to suf- fer, and now participates in blessedness, such as this miserable world cannot afford. May his pious example stimulate me, and his other children, to follow him in the path which conducts to a better world. ^^iji^i^Mijif/. /iir^nH mHiizMi:''*ti^i ihi' '- 1 have also received letters from Mr. A. N. M^Leod, and Mr. J. M«= Donald, which inform me, that I am to pass the enduing winter at Cuniber- !and House, for which place, I shall leave this, a few days hence. r ♦. i i r la tv ,» (i; ^ u i^n*'> .1 Thursday, September 11. Cumler/and House, I arrived here this afternoon, and tind Messrs.^J^ 20 .^ 154 HAtlMON 8 JOURNAL. " ! ' 1 ■ Hughes, and David Thompson, &c. who have just arrived from the New Fort, and who are on their way to Fort des Prairies. The Huds^^n Fay peo- ple have a fort within a hundred rods of ours, in the charge of Mr. Peter Fidler. ' t ,* ^~ Wednesday, 17. Sent Mons. Peras and com- pany, with a small assortment of goods, to go and pass the winter at Moose Lake, which is situated about two days' march from this, and nearly weat from Lake Winnipick. ."♦ ^'^ The Indians, who resort to this establishment, are Sauteux and Muscagoes. Moose and black bears are pretty abundant in this vicinity ; and a few beavers are found. We subsist principally upon sturgeon and white hsh, which we take out of the lake. Geese and bustards are numerous, in the fall and spring. The surrounding country is very low and level, so that, at some seasons, much of it is overflowed. This accounts for the periodical influx and reflux of the water, between this lake and the Sisiscatchwin River, which are distant six miles. * Friday, October 3. Hudson Bay people, in three canoes, have just arrived from York Facto- ry* They bring late news from England; and in- form us, that war continues to rage as much as ever, on the continent of Europe. ,% Friday^ 24. Wc have now about four inches • . - a*: ■ Harmon's journal. 155 of snow ; and, the last night, the greater part of this lake froze over. — I have sent people to the other side of this lake, to fish for sturgeon, which . will weigh from ten to one hundred pounds. They are taken in spread nets, which is the manner in which we generally take all kinds of fish, in this country. Some kinds, however, such as trout, cat fish and pike, we at times take, by setting hooks and lines. Friday, January 30, 1807. Two of the Hud- son Bay people arrived from Fort des Prairies, who were so obliging as to bring me letters from several gentlemen in that quarter. The greater part of tLe North West and Hudson Bay people, live on amicable terms ; and when one can with propriety render a service to the other, it is done with cheerfulness. ,, Sunday, April 5. The Ice in the Sisiscatchwin river, is broken up ; and the great quantity of snow which has recently been dissolved, has caus- ed that river to rise so high, as to give another course to a small river, which generally takes its water out of this lake, but which now runs into it. Saturday, May 23. This lake is free from ice ; and we have planted potatoes, and sowed our garden seeds. — Geese have returned from the south, and we now have them in plenty. Saturday, 30. Mr. John McDonald and others. 156 UARMON S JOURNAL. in seven canoes, have just arrived from Fort dea Prairies, and are on their way to the New Fort. ' ^^ Sfunday, June 1 . Grand Rapid. On the 1st inst. Mr. John M<^Donald, myself and other peo- ple, in seven canoes and one boat, left CutnbeHand House and arrived here, on the 15th, where we have ever since been, stopped by the ice in Lake Winnipick, which is not yet broken up. — We here spear as many sturgeon as wc please, as they are going up or down the rapid, wh'ch is about six miles in length. -- Monday^ 8. Lake Winnipick. The last night there arose a strong north west wind, which broke up the ice, and drove it to the north east part of the lake. We, therefore, embarked this morning, and have sailed all dav. ' "^ '..-t**-^ -- Tuesday^ 16. White River. In the morning we left the fort, at the entrance of Lake Winnipick River, and this afternoon, Mr. A. N. M^Leod and company, from Athabasca, overtook us. With thi'j gentleman, to whom I am under many obliga- tions, I am happy to spend an evening, after so long a separation. r. Saturday, Jidy 4. JYew Fort. Once ittore, I have arrived at the general rendezvous, and find myself among my friends and acquaintances, from different parts of the country. — Here I have re- ceived letters from my friemls beloW, which in- , -» Harmon's journal. 157 ibrm me of their health and reasonable prosperi*- ty. It is a great satisfaction thus to hear from them ; but this satisfaction would be greatly in- creased, could I be permitted to see and converse with them. Although the seven years, for which I was under an engagement to the North West Company, have now expired, I cannot with the least degree of propriety, as I think, gratify the ardent desire which I have of seeing my friends, by going down this year. Ai.d when the happy time will come, that I shall visit them, God only knows. It is trying to a person who has the least affection for his friends, to be separated from them, for such a series of years, in such a savage country. My duty and happiness, however, re- quire that I endeavour to make the best of my situation. Notwithstanding the bad examples which we daily witness, a person can be as virtu- ous in this, as in any other part of tlie world. True it is, if a person were here to lead a really re- ligious life, he would find but few associates, who would directly encourage him in his (^yurac^ But this is in a great measure trub in every part of the world. ^v ■' ••* .. v. >,'j >, i^?. . »-- ,. , • Sunday, July 19. This, which was formerly called the New Fort, is now named Fort William, in honour of William M^Gilvray, Esq. the head agent of the North West Company. At the time 158 HARMON'S JOURNAL. M. of giving this name, the Company made a present to their Voyagers, of a considerable quantity of spirits, shrub, &:c. and also a similar present to the Indians, encamped about the fort. As I am still in ill health, I shall pass the win- ter wi'th Doctor M'^Laughlin, at Sturgeon Lake, in the department of Nipigon, which lies to the north west from this. y .->^'^i-«. /? i.^ **« ^^^u Saturday, 25. This afternoon, in company with three canoes, I left Fort William ; and we are now encamped on an island, in Lake Supe- riour, . ,. . . „,., JHonday, August 3. First long Portage in the JVipigon Road. We yesterday, separated from Messrs. Chaboille" ^iid Leith, who have gone to winter at the Pic and Michipcotton ; and to day, we left Lake Superiour, and have come up a small river. Tuesday, 4. South west end of Lake JVipigon, This lake is said to be one hundred and fifty miles in length, and from one, to twenty, broad. Trout are here *^k2£?/SUDeriour to those that are found iritne NorthWesf country, which will weigh up- wards of seventy pounds, and are of an excellent quality. — The country through which we have passed in coming to this place from Lake Superi- our, is rocky and contains but little wood, of any kind. Whortleberries are found in plenty, iri^^^;. Harmon's journal. 159 •:% "Friday, 7. Fort Duncan, at the north end of Lake JVipigon. The surrounding country is very rough; but where the ground is arable, the soil appears to be good. — Moose and cariboo are found in this vicinity ; and there are, also, a few black bear^, beavers, otters, muskrats, mar- tins, &c. Great numbers of white fish are taken out of the lake, particularly in the fall of the year. These are hvtng up by their tails, in the open air, and are preserved good, in a frozen state, during the winter:. Most people prefer those that have been thus kept, to fish that are taken immediately out of the water. .v a Sunday, 9. In the morning, we sent off three canoes, and in the after part of the day, some of the people returned, with the melancholy intelli- gence, that one of their companions was drowned, in going up a small rapid. The canoe overset, and most of the property on board, was lost. The other persons, who were in it, saved themselves by swimming to the shore. '«» Thursday, 13. In the morning, Mr. Holdane, the Doctor and myself, with our company, left fort Duncan, where Mr. R. M<=Kenzie will pass the ensuing winter. There, also, we separated from two Messrs. Camerons, whose route is northward, towards Hudson's Bay. Our course is nearly south west. 1 .'1 *i ♦■: 160 .'lARMON'S JOURNAL. m it 1 % i im ^ Monday, 24. Portage du Fort, or Sturgeon Lake. Here, we arrived, yesterday ; and this morning, Mr. Holdane and his company left us, to continue their route to Red Lake. The Doctor and I, with our company, shall leave this tomor- row, to go and build at the other end of this lake, •which may be about forty miles long, and from 4/sH; XL 've broad. — The country through which Wfc Lave r.-^ssed, since we left Fort Duncan, is Fow and level ; no mountains, or even hills, arc to be seen ; in many places it is swampy, and small lakes and ponds and rivers and brooks are numerous. Where the land is dry, the soil appears to be prin- cipally a black loam. — This tract of country was formerly well stocked with beavers and otters ; but they have now become scarce, as they have been hunted by the Natives, during more than the last hundred years. Moose and carriboo are still considerably numerous, in this region. Tuesday, September, 1. Our people are erect- ing houses for our winter habitations. We now take white fish in considerable numbers. — The In- dians, who frequent this post, are Sauteux and Muscagoes. "^ •'-"'*"■ *"* >)v. .:.>««rJ^*, ..^.vfi ;. Saturday, October 3. We sent people to the other end of this lake, to make a fall fishery. They will take white fish, trout, pike, carp, Hcc,, which constitute^ the principal food for those Harmon's journal. 161 who are in the Nipigon country. In this country, which is at least seven hundred miles long and five or six hundred broad, more people have starv- ed to death, than in all the rest of the Indian coun- try. At this lake, several years since, eleven Canadians lost their lives for want of food. We experience at present, no difHcul ty in this respect ; and I am of opinion that the distresses of our predecessors were, in a considerable measure, owing to the want of good management. * Monday, JVovember 9. Our people havt re- turned, and inform us, that they have caught only fourteen hundred fish of all aescriptions. These, however, with what corn, flour, wild rir" and meat we have, together with the trout which we hope to take with set hooks and lines, as soon as the lake is frozen over, will, we expect, furnish us with a comfortable subsistence, during the winter. We are in a solitary place, where we see no one, excepting the Natives ; and they are few in num- ber, compared with those, among whom I have formerly been. Happily for us, we have a few good books ; and in perusing them, we shall pass the greater part of the time. The Doctor, who is of about the same age with myself, is an excellent companion, and fond of conversation ; and I trust, that a friendly inter- course will mutually cheer our spirits, and that we 21 ^ 162 HARMON'S JOUR:taL. if 1 shall spend the winter in a manner, that will be both pleasant and profitable. — We have now about four inches of snow, which will probably re- main with us through the winter. , Sunday, lb. The last night, this lake froze Friday, December 4. We now take great numbers of excellent trout from under the ice, with books and lines. if i» Early this morning, the woman whom 1 have taken to reside with me, became the mother of a boy, whom 1 name George Harmon. ,.,^, Monday, December 28. Doctor M<^Laughlin, accompanied by two Canadians and one of the Natives,^ has gone to visit Mr. Holdane, at Red Lake. ii a,A« = f.i^.' Friday, February 19, 1808. The Doctor and company have returned, from their long juant ; and I am happy in again enjoying his so- ciety, after a season of comparative loneliness. i i^^ Another year of my life is gone, which makes me thirty years of age. This anniversary leads me to reflect on the rapid flight of time, and the brevity of human life. When I attentively con- sider these things, it seems surprising that we should encounter so much difliculty and labour in the acquisition of property, which, if it could min- k. Harmon's journal. 163 ister more effectually to our enjoyment than it^ does, we must very soon relinquish forever. Friday, May 13. The Doctor, with one man in a small canoe, has set off for Fort William, where he will be wanted as soon as he can arrive, to attend on the sick. Among the great number ' who visit that rendezvous every summer, there are always some, who need medical aid ; thougl^ . I firmly believe, that no part of the world is more healthly than this. — The Doctor has not been able to learn, to his satisfaction, what my com- plaint is. I think that the medicines, which I have taken, in the course of the winter, have been of essential service to me ; and I hope, before long to regain my former state of good health. The Indians of this f^ace have subsisted, dur- ing the greater part of the past winter, upon hares. — There is an old Sauteux woman here, who compels her own son to have criminal inter- course with her! ' ( Thursday, June 9. Portage du Fort. Here, we shall wait the arrival of the people of this de- partment ; and we shall then continue our route, with them to Fort William. It is nine months and fifteen days since I passed this place, the last autumn, in going into the country, which evinces that our winter has been long; and I may add too, that it has been dreary. But we have reason t 164 HARMON S JOURNAL. ! JimWii'jil' /« to be thankful to God, that we have not suffered at all, for the want of the means of sul^sistence. Wednesday, 22. Fort Duncan, The people for whoa* we were waiting at Portage du Fort, arrived on the 12th, and the day following, we set out for this place, which we reached this af- ternoon. i« f. Saturday, 25. Yesterday, we left fort Dun- can, and came to an island in Lake Nipigon, on which we are now encamped, and where we in- tend to pass a few days, in fishing for trout, which are here in plenty, and are of an excellent quality. -».r^.. ^ yr, 3-^,^-^87?. Thursday, July 7. Yesterday morning, I ar- rived at Fort William, where I had only time to read my letters from my friends below, and an- swer them, and prepare myself for a long journey. This afternoon I embarked for Athabasca, in company with Mr. J. G. M<^Tavish ; and both of us are to remain at the place of our destination, for three years, at least. .-^i-^w^^ Wednesday, 20. Rainy Lake. We here find all the Athabasca people, excepting one brigade, which is expected daily. *' ** Saturday, 22. Ever since my arrival here, we have been busily employed in preparing to leave this place, for our winter quarters. Tuesday, 26. Rainy Lake River. In the $ Harmon's journal. 165 morning, I left the fort in company with Mr. Archib. Id McGiUivray. Our brigade consicts of ten canoes. ' * .. > r . ,. . . Friday, 29. Portage de Disk, in Winnipick River. In the morning, we met Mr. David Thomson and company from the Columbia River. Monday, Avgust 1. Lake Winnipick. This morning, we arrived at the fort on this lake, where we remained until noon. While there, I wrote to my old friend Mr. William Henry, who is at the Lower Red River. 1 also received a letter from him, in which he informs me, that his fort was attacked this summer, by a considerable party of Sieux. Two shots, from cannon in the block houses, however, caused them to retire, in doing which, they threatened that they would be- fore long, return and make another attempt to take the fort. — The Sieux are a numerous tribe of Indians, who are scattered over a large tract of land, that lies between the Mississippi and Missou- ri rivers ; and they are said to be the greatest villains, in this part of the world. They are the same tribe that Carver distinguishes, by the name of Nandswesseis. .v. * baturday, 6. Grand Rapid, at the north west end of Lake Winnipick. The wind has been high, during the day ; and in the latter part of it, one of our canoes filled with water. Happily, it was 166 harmok's journai^ m near an island, when tliis disaster happened. The people were, however, under the necessity of throwing a part of their property overboard. We find here Mons. Perigne, who was former- ly a clerk to the North West Company, but who, as he informs me, has lately been to Canada, and has coifne up oo his own account. He has brought up a few good^, to enable him to carry on a small traffick with the Natives. He, also,^ in- tends, occasionally to hunt the beaver, &c., himself. But I am convinced, that, at this great distance from the place of market for furs, the trade cannot be profitably carried on, unless it b« done on a large scale, which requires a greater capital ihan an individual can embark in this undertaking. The cixperiment has been m*»de, in a number of ' inslances ; and it has uniformly failed. . Friday^ 12. Cumberland House. From this , place, I shall take a route, which I haive never before travelled, r-f Saturday^ 113. Eritmnce (!)/' Rtver Maltgne^ or Bad River, This is a considerable river, which runs into Sturgeon Lake. Sunday^ 14. llmver Lake, The greater part of the day, we have employed in coming y[) tbti river last mentioned, which, through its whole course, has a continual succession of rapids. HARMON'S JOURNAL. 167 The country around is low, a.id the timber, like that of the North West country generally, is small. Tuesday^ 16. Pelican Lake, Most of the day has been passed in crossing Lac Martin. Wednesday. 17. Portage du Forte de Traite, or Trading Fort Portage. This was so named, from a circumstance which occurred here, thirty lour years since. Mr. Joseph Frobisher and com- pany, who were the first traders who ever came into this quarter, here met a large band of Na- tives, whose canoes were loaded with furs, which they were taking to York Factor)', at Hudson's Bay. He succeeded in bartering his goods for iheir furs, which amounted to more than he could take to head quarters, the next season. He therefore built a fort, and, with his people passed several winters here ; and at that time, it was the most northen post, belonging either to the North West, or the Hudson Bay Company. ^ All the wTtcrs from this side of the portage, pass through Lake Winnipick, and finally fall into Hud- son's Bay, at York Factory. But, on the other side of the portage, which is about half a mile over, the stream, which is called Mis-sin-ni-pi or Great River, runs in a different direction, and en- ters Hudson's Bay, at Churchill Factory, which is the most northern post belonging to the Hudson Bay Company. The river last mentioned, is call- 168 Harmon's journal. ¥ •I > ! , If m ed, by the Hudson Bay people, Churchill River, and by the people from Canada, English River. Thursday, August 18. This afternoon, we ob- tained some dried meat from the Natives, which we find much more palatable than the salted pro- visions, on which we have subsisted, ever since we left Fort William. In the kiteriour we never make 'jse of salted provisions ; not, however, for want of salt, which is found in most parts of the country, and which can be obtained in plenty, at all our establishments. ' "^ ^^ Tuesday, 23. Isle a la Cross Lake. Ever since we left Portage du Forte de Traite, we have been in what may with propriety, bo called the English River, though it passes through sev- eral small lakes ; and in this river, our way has been obstructed by thifty six portages. — Thursday^ 25. ' Isle la Cross Jort. This fort stands on the north side df the lake of the same tiame, is well built and has attached to it an ex- cellent kitchen garden. Out of the lake, the best of white fish are taken, during the whole year ; and it is the only place in this country, in which theec fish can be taken, at all Beasons.— The Indians who come to this establishment, are Chippewyans, in considerablG numbers, and a few Crees. I am informed that there are, in this vicinity, many moose and carilioo, and a few black bears, bca- Harmon's journal. 169 vers,' otters, cats, &c. The country is low ; and scarcely any mountains are to be seen. Tuesday, 30. East end of Portage la Loche, or Loach Portage.' This is so named, from a neigh- bouring lake, where these fish are taken, in abun- dance. This portage is twelve miles oveit; and across h, the pe?>ple are obliged to transport both canoes' and lading. The road, however, is excellent, through a level country, thinly wood- ed with cypress. In coming here from Isle la Cross, we Jiave passed two considerable lakes, aiid come up a small river, which is between those lakes. The country through which we have parsed, is generally level, and the soil iy tolerably \ood. " The streams, before we cross this portage, discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay at Churchill Factory ; but after- ward, the water, after passing through Athabasca, Great Slave, and other lakes, enters the North Sea. Saturday, September 3. JYorth west end of Poringe la Loche. We here find a small band of Chipewyans, who assist our people in trans- porting our property across the portage, and who supply us with provisions, which we very much need, since our former btock is nearly ex- hausted. » ' ^ About a mile from this end of the portage is 22 'N ••* J70 HARMON S JOURNAL. « ft uir'"\ iv^n a hill, which towers majestically, to the height of a thousand feet, above the plain below ; and which commands a most exi'ensive and delightful pros- pect. Two lofty and extensive ridges, enclose a valley, about three miles in width, which stretches, far as^ the eye can reach. The Little River, which is, also, by different persons, denominated Swan, Clear water, or Pelican River, winds, in a most k'lightful manner, along this charming val- ley. The majestick forests, which wave upon these ridges, the delightful verdure of the inter- vening lawn, and the beautiful stream, which wan- ders along through it, giving a pleasing variety to the scene, until these objects become blended with the horizon, form, on the whole, the most de- lightful, natural scenery, that I ever beheld. Sunday, 4. In the morning, we leO tlie Port- age ; and are now in Little Athabasca River ,: which is about twc- y rods wide. Tuesday, 6. Vi . ;ire now in the Great Atha- basca River, which is about three quarters of a mile in breadth. In the early part of the day, we passed the Fork, where Little Athabasca riv- er and Red deer, or as some call it, Elk river, form a junction. — At a small distance from Port- age la Lothe, the navigation of the river is inter- rupted by several carrying places, in ubout the midille of which, are some mineral springs, that U-v i::;^^|^|J HARMON'S JOURNAL. ^71 are evidently smpregnated with sulphur, as ap- pears by the incrustations on their margins. At about twenty miles from the Fork, several bitu- minous fountains are found, into which a pole of twenty (ect in length, m?cy be plunged,' witliout the least resistance. The bitumen, which is in a fluid state, is mixed with gum, or the resinous sub- stance collected from the spruce fir, and is used for gumming canoes. When heated, it emits a smell, like that of sea coal. — There are some places, along this river, which are of many miles in extent, where there is scarcely a t''ee standmg. They were killed by the fire, and were then thrown down by the winds. At these places, a few bulTa.' loes, moose and cariboo, are fodnd. Wednesdmf, 7. Fort Chipcwyan. This fort stands on a rocky point, at the south western end of Athabasca Lake, or, as some call it, the Lake of the Hills. — This is the general rendezvous for all Athabasca. Here the goods are set apart for all the difTcrent posts, in thij extensive depart- ment ; and to this place, the greater number of persons who have the charge of these posts, come every fall, to receive their merchandise from those, who have brought it from tho Rainy Lake. — This place is in N. Lat. Sfi- 40' and VV. Long. 1 1 r. < A few Crees, and a greater number of Chipe- '■I ' ■ 6K0-. r *SK-'- 172 Harmon's journal. wyans, resort to this establishment. The latter tribe were accustomed, formerly, to take their furs to Churchill Factory, at Hudson's Bay. They were, generally, six raonths in performing the jounlcy ; and many of them have actually starved to death, on their return home, as the country through wliich they passed, is almost des- titute of gatjie. — This lake is, in no part of it, more than fifteen miles wide ; but it is, at least, two hundred miles long, and extends eastwardly, to- ward Churchill Factory. sj/n «> it ' A.bout sixty 'miles from this, down Slaro River, there are several places, where almost any quan- tity of excellent, clean, white aall; may be taken, with as much case, as sand, along the sea shore. From these places^ the greater part of the North West IS supplied with this valuable article. i- The country around this place, is low and lev- el. ^ nd, iu the spring of the year, much of it iS cov- ered with water. A few moose are found, in this vicinity ; but, the fish of the lake form the princi- pal dependence for food, and they are abundant, ivticl of an excellent quality. — Every fall and spring, bust'irds itnd geese are found in greater numbers, than iii any other part of the North West. Wednesday, 21, Ever since my arrival in this place, people, from almost every corner of this extensive department, have boon flocking in, some HARAION^S JOURNAL. ot'whom are from more than a thousand miles down McKenzie's River, which is nearly north west from this. Others are from Great Slave Lake and Peace River. Mr. Simon Frazer has just returned from the Pacific Ocean. The hist spring, accompanied by two other gentlemen, twelve Canadians, and two of the Natives, he set out from New Caledonia, on the west side of the Rocky Mountain, on this tour. Mr. Frazer states, that his party met with some ill treatment from the Indians who live along the sea coast, but that they were hospitably received by those who reside farther up the country. The Indians in that quarter, he says, arc less scattered than those who live on this side of the Rocky Mountain, and reside, not in tents, but in houses or huts, constructed of wood. He also reports, that the country through which they passed, is far from being well stocked with beavers, or any other kind of animals ; and that the Na- tives subsist principally upon fish. Thursday^ 22. This afternoon, in company with a number of persons, in several canoes, I left Fort Chipewyan; and, after coming two mil. . in Athabasca Lake, wo entered a small river, which is about thirty six miles long, and which now runs out of that lake into Peace river ; but, when this river is high, it discharges itself into the Lake. 174 HARMON^S JOURNAL, ,;;J Jil.. I ■XP". '^k Friday^ 23. Peace River. This river is about seventy rods in breadth, and has a gentle current. It rises on the west side of the Rocky Mountain, at the distance of nearly a thousand miles from this. Below this, it assumes the name of Slave River ; and, after a course of one hundred and forty or fifty miles, it discharges itself into Great Slave Lake. *" ^ - - _.„«t.. Sunday, October 2. Fort Vermillion. To this post, great numbers of Beaver Indians bring their furs ; and there are a few Iroquois, also, from Can- ada, who hunt in this vicinity. — About sixty miles below this, where the river is about thirty rods wide, there is a fall, of about twenty feet. Through the whole course, frogi this fall nearly to the Rocky MourUain, at a little distance from the river, on each side, there are plains of con- siderable extent, which afford pasture for nume- rous herds of the buffaloe, the red deer or elk, and a few moose. Great numbers of black bead's are found, that (eed on the berries, wjiich are abundant on the hills, on both sides of the river. Friday, 7. Encampment island Fort. This place is, also established, for the purpose of trading with the Beaver Indians. They are the only Indians who live along this noble river, excepting a few Crees, who occasionally come to this quarter, from the Lesser Slave Lake. men, nir In } if W'T-S HARMON S JOURNAL. 175 Monday, tO. Dunvegan. This is a well built fort, pleasantly situated, with plains on each side of the river, in N. Lat. 56° and W. Lon. 119°. About the Fort a number of Iroquois hunters, and a band of Beaver Indians, have encamped, who have been waiting our arrival, in order to obtain the articles which they need. At this place I expect to pass the ensuing winter. There will, also, be here, Messrs. D. M<^Tavish, J. G. McTavish, J. McGillivray, thirty two labouring men, nine women and several children, which renders this place very different from my solitary abode the last winter. Our principal food will be the flesh of the buf- faloes moose, red deer and bear. We have a tol- erably good kitchen garden -, and we are in no fear that we shall want the means of a comforta- ble subsistence. We have, also, a provision for the entertainment and improvement of our minds, in a good collection of books. The gentlemen who are to remain with me, are enlightened, sociable and pleasant companions ; and I hope, therefore, to spend a pleasant and a profitable winter. \ Friday, \4. This morning, my old friend Mr. F. Goedike, whom I have been happy to raeei at this place, left us, with his company, for St. Johns, which is about one hundred and twenty miles up this river, where he is to pass the ensuing winter. I' ■r \*'t .; :^:.w J 76 HARMON S JOURNAL. ».|! Lhir 1/ Saturday, JYovemher 12. About a foot of snow has fallen. Tuesday, December 20. During the last night, this river froze over.; and, at nine o'clock this morning, the thermometer was at 4G degret^s be- low 0. Wednesday January 4, 1809. Sent the ex- press to the Lesser Slave Lake, which lies about two hundred and fifty miles to the south east from this, whence it will be forwarded to Fort des Prairies. Wednesday, March 1. A band of our Indian? have come in, who went a considerable distance to the northward, the last autumn, in search of beavers. They state, that where they were, the snow fell to an extraordinary depth, in conse- quence of which, they suffered greatly for want of provisions. In this vicinity, the snow was, at no time, more than two feet and an half deep. Monday, 20. The snow is fast dissolving. — Mr. A. R. M^Leod and company, have just arriv- ed from the Encampment Island ; and they bring the melancholy intelligence of the death of Mr. Andrew M*^Kenzie, natural son of Sir Alexander M<=Renzie. He expired at Fort Vermillion, on the 1st inst.. The death of this amiable young man, is regretted by all who knew him. — They, also, inform us, that several Canadians have lost Harmon's journal* 177 their lives by famine, in the vicinity of Great Slave Lake. Those who survived, were under the necessity of subsisting, several days, upon the flesh of their dead companions. It is reported, that one man killed his wife and child, in order to supply himself with food, who, afterwards, himself starved to death. These Canadians came up into this part of tije world, yrce, to hunt the beaver, &c. and they were at too great a distance from our establishments, to receive any aid from us, until it was too late, for the greater part of them. It is not unfrequently the case, that, the sur- viving part of a band of the Natives, subsist upon the flesh of their dead companions, when compel- led to do it for want of other food, sufficient to sustain life. I know a woman who, it is said ate of no less than fourteen of her friends and rela- tions, during one winter. In the summer season, the Indians can find food, almost any where ; but the case is far otherwise, when the ground is cov- ered with snow, to the depth of several feet, tx^mi Wednesday^ 22- Sent people to look for birch bark, to make canoes, to take out our returns to the Rainy Lake. The greater part of the ca- noes, in which we bring our merchandise into the country, will not answer to transport our furs be- low. v»ir}.«i»*iwi'> 23 ^■^Oi .V^. ^^%^ ^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // y. f/. y. ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 Sri^ IIIIIM ^ 1^ ill 2-0 1.4 1.6 V] <^ ^W /}. •« * % -J '/ /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREIT WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m ^ ^s^ <> ^^"-^^.1^ 6^ / #,^ 178 Harmon's journal. f.\ '«i. ^ I 'Kf Thursday, April 6. The weather is mild. The people, whom we sent for bark, have re- turned, with one hundred and eighty fathoms, which will make nine canoes, that will carry about two tons burthen, each. Two men will easily transport one of them on their shoulders, across the portages. Tuesday, 11. Geese and bustards begin to come from the south. % o^ »j^* 5'y**?? vstr?^ wf»s .v^^: Tuesday, IB. This morning, the ice in this river broke up. • ■ * " * *^-*f " ^«^"* Saturday, May 6. The surrounding plains are all on fire. — We have planted our potatoes, and sowed most of our garden seeds. — Our people are preparing to set out for the Rainy Lake. c Thursday, l\. We, yesterday, sent off eleven canoes, loaded with the returns of this place and of St John's ; and, early this morning, Messrs. D. McTavish, J. G. McTavish, F. Goedike and J. M<^Gillivray, embarked on board of two light ca- noes, bound for the Rainy Lake and Fort Wil- liam. But I am to pass the ensuing summer, at this place. — The last winter was, to me, the most agreeable one that I have yet spent in this country. The greatest harmony prevailed among us, the days glided on smoothly, and the winter passed, almost imperceptibly, away. Tuesday, 16. In the morning, Messrs. Simon Ji ff V*Hi .'WSl HARMON'S JOURNAL. 179 Frazer and James M^Dougall and company, arriv- ed, in four canoes. The former gentleman came from the Rocky Mountain Portage, which is about one hundred and eighty miles, up this River. The later is from New Caledonia, on the west side of the Rocky Mountain, which is distant from this, about four hundred and fifty miles. After passing the most of the day with me, they continued their route toward the Rainy Lake. , i ; ?,• ,l•^^ ■H' Friday, June 2. The seeds which we sowed in the garden, have sprung up, and grow remark- ably well. The present prospect is, that straw- berries, red raspberries, shad berries, cherries, &c., will be abundant, this season. ^ This river since the beginning of May, has ris- en twelve feet perpendicularly ; and it still con- tinues to rise. This circumstance arises, in part, from the large quantity of rain, which has lately fallen, but more, I presume, from the dissolving of the snow, on and near the Rocky Mountain. -,. Tuesday^ 13. An Indian has come here, who says, that one of their chiefs has lately died ; and he requests that we furnish a chief's clothing to be put on him, that he may be decently interred ; and, also, that we would supply a small quantity of spirits, for his relations and friends to drink, at his interment ; all of which I have sent, for the deceased was a friendly Indian. Nothing pleases h't , i«. rim 180 Harmon's journal. 11 •If '•' I! \-t '>< ii J.I- an Indian better, than to see his deceased rela- tives, handsomely attired ; for he believes that they will arrive in the other world, in the same dress, with which they are clad, when they are consigned to the grave. " ^ ' ^'^ .-:%.^.^^. Wednesday, July 19. A few days since, Mr. John Stuart and company, came here, from New Caledonia, for goods ; and to day, they set out on their return home. During the few days which that gentleman passed here, I derived much sat- isfaction from his society. We rambled about the plains, "conversing as we went, and now and then stopping, to eat a few berries, which are every where to be found. He has evidently read and reflected much. How happy should I be to have sqch a companion, during the whole summer. But such is our mode of life in this country, that we meet but seldom ; and the time that we remain together, is short. We only begin to find the ties of friendship, binding us closely together, when we are compelled to separate, not to meet again perhaps for years to come. fz.. Baptiste La Fleur, my interpreter, will accom- pany Mr. Stuart and his men, as far as St. John's, in hopes of obtaining some inform^^tion respecting his brother, who, it is supposed, was killed by an Indian, the last spring, while on his way from the Rocky Mountain Portage to St. John's. I ■ -.wpp ...,x HARMON'S JOURNAL. 181 . 1^1* Wednesday^ July 19, Baptiste La Fleur has returned from St. Johns, without having been able to obtain the least intelligence, respecting his poor brother, and the two Indians, who were com- ing down the river, in the same canoe with hioi. We are, therefore, apprehensive that all three of them have been drowned, in coming down the rapids, as their canoe was made of the bark of the spruce fir tree, and was, therefore, very weak. Friday, 21. We have cut down our barley ; and I think it is the finest that I ever saw in any country. The soil on the points of land, along this river is excellent.* ''^H**-^^ *•*««» > The mother of the chief, who died this sum- mer, and who is far advanced in years, now re- mains in a tent, at the distance of a few rods from the fort. Many of the Natives, of both sexes, when they become old and infirm, and unable to travel with their rela:ions, who depend upon the chase for subsisti&nce, ^nd are frequently moving from place to place, settle down near our forts ; and it is easy for us to render them more effectual aid, than their friends could possibly afford them. Almost every day, just as the sun is sinking below the horizon, the old lady, above mentioned, goes to the place where her deceased son, when alive, was accustomed to encamp, when he came i 'r-i^'^i ,-* * ■ , , 182 HARMON'S JOURNAL. to the fort, and there weeps, and sings a mournful kind of song, of which the following is a transla- tion. " My dear son, come to me ! why do you leave me, my son?" This she repeats for two hours together, in the most plaintive and melan- choly tone imaginable. It is customary for the women, among the Beaver Indians, when they lose a near relation, to cut off a joint of one of their fingers ; and, in con- sequence of so barbarous a custom, we frequently see some of their aged women, who want the first two joints of every finger, on both hands. The men content themselves, on such occasions, by cut- ting off their hair, close to their heads, and by scratching or cutting their faces and arms, fre- quently in a most barbarous and shocking manner. The Beaver Indians are a peaceable and quiet people, and, perhaps, the most honest of any, on the face of the earth. Theft is rarely committed among them ; and when one of their tribe is known to have stolen, he is reg^'ded with a de- testation, like that which follows a highwayman in civilized countries. ; jit ?»■* -Sif^Mr r t; ... Formerly, their clothing was made of the skins of the bufialoe, moose, and red deer, and their arms were bows and arrows ; but the great- er part of them, are now clothed with European goods, and are supplied with fire arms. They HARMON S JOURNAL. 183 have, also, iron axes and knives, in the place of those which were made of stone and of bone. Friday, September 1. Fowls begin to leave the north, to go to the southward. Friday, October 6. As the weather begins to be cold, we have taken our vegetables out of the ground, which we find to have been very produc- tive. '■■'*** •-'*'■'' '■*«JtaM;i*'"4-- ri I ..l'iA>», fiii'i .■ ».■,.. i*>vV Saturday, 7. Mr. A. R. M^Leod and company, passed this place, to-day, in three canoes, which are on their way to the Rocky Mountain Portage, and thence to New Caledonia. This gentleman delivered me letters, not only from different per- sons in this country, but also from my relatives be- low. To be informed, in this way, of the health and prosperity of the latter, to attend to the effu- sions of their hearts, and a detail of many of the circumstances of their lives, transports me in im- agination, for a short season, into the midst of their society, and communicates a pleasure resem- bling that of personal intercourse. Excellent in- vention of letters ! thus to enable us to keep up a kind of conversation with beloved friends, while separated from them by thousands of miles. Sunday, February 25, 1810. On the evening of the 15th Inst, my woman was delivered of two living boys. They appear, however, to have been prematurely born j and, from the first, little -■^I' » ; -■'■■ % Ui ■«. 184 HARMON S JOURNAL. hope was entertained that they would long sur- vive. One of them died c.t the morning of the 22(3, and the other the last night ; and to day, they were both buried in the same coffin. He who gave them life, has taken it away. He had an undoubted right so to do ; and though his ways are to us, inscrutable, he has the best reasons for whatever he does. It becomes us, therefore, humbly to acquiesce in this afflictive dispensa- tion. ^WJ' -*?i; :--i'f!t*>^:fla^o/»«>i»ites«-fi4*4jsa^ : • Thursday y May 3. This day, the ice in the river broke up. --«--;" v—.f* ..^...i, * Tuesday, 15. Early this morning, Mr. D. M'^ Tavish and company, set out ior Fort William ; and this afternoon, Mr. J. Clarke and company, from St. John's, passed this, on their way to the, Rainy Lake. But I shall remain, if providence permit, at this place, during another summer. The local situation is pleasant ; and we have good horses, by means of which, I can, at pleasure make excursions into the surrounding plains, over which are scattered buffaloes, moose, red deers, ante- lopes, black and grey bears, &t. I shall have no intelligent companion, with whom to converse. But thit deficiency will be in a measure supplied, by a good collection of books, with which I am furnished. Were it not for this resource, many ai dreary day would pass over jne. / ^t ,1 .>.... .,. and with Moui HARMON 3 JOURNAL. 185 jii Tuesday, 22. Messrs. J. Stuart, and H. Farics and company, passed this place in four canoes, with the returns of New Caledonia and Rocky Mountain Portage ; and. like many others, they are on their way to the Rainy Lake. , , «f*- Saturday, June 23. The last night was so cold, that the tops of our potatoes were frozen. This morning, as several red deer were crossing from the opposite side of the river, one of our people leaped into a canoe, and pursued them, and succeeded in killing one of them. . Thursday, September 13. Two men have ar- rived from New Caledonia, wiio bring the disa- greeable intelligence, that salmon, this season, do not come up the rivers of that region, as usual. As this kind of fish forms the principal article of food, both for the Natives and white people, it is apprehended that they will all be under the ne- cessity of proceeding towards the Pacific Ocean, until they find a people who have been more fa- voured by Providence. I'* !i rMfti *^^ Wednesday, October 3. We have taken our potatoes out of the ground, and find, that nine bushels, which we planted the 10th of may last, have produced a little more than one hundred and fifty bushels. The other vegetables in our garden have yielded an increase, much in the same pro- portion, which is sufficient proof, that the soil of 24 . L -i- f\ i i*. 186 HARMON S JOURNAL. I '1 I'- I ! ' - . /• the points of land, along this river, is good. la- deed, I am of opinion, that wheat, rye, barley, oats, pease, &c. would grow well in the plains around us. *<<■ ^ a'» . . >r. *; .^^^. .n Saturday, October 6. Mr. John Stuart and com- pany, in four canoes, have arrived from Fort Chipewyan, having on board, goods for the estab- ishment at the Rocky Mountain Portage and New Caledonia. This gentleman delivered me a packet of letters from home, and also a number of others from gentlemen in this country, one of which is a joint letter, signed by three of the part- ners, requesting me to go and superintend the af- fairs of New Caledonia; or, if I prefer it, to ac- company Mr. Stuart, as second in command to him, until the next spring, at which time it is presumed, that 1 shall have learned sufficient of the state of things in that country, to assume the whole man- agement myself. As Mr. Stuart has passed sev- eral years in that part of the country, the infor- mation which his experience will enable him to afford me, will be of great service. I prefer, therefore, accompanying him, to going alone, es- pecially in viev/ of the late unfavourable reports from that country, in regard to the means of sub- sistence. ^ . Wednesday, October 10. St. John's. On the 7th Mr. Stuart and myself, with our company, N Harmon's journal. 187 left Duiwegan ; and this evening, we arrived here. The current in the river begins to be much strong- er than we found it below Dunvegan. On both sides of the river, are hills of a considerable height, which are almost destitute of timber of any kind. At different places, we saw buffaloes, red deer, and bears. During our passage to this place, the weather has been bad. The snow and rain have been very unpleasant, unprotected against them, as we are, in our open canoes. ^ .. Thursday, 11. In the early part of the day, our people were busily employed in preparing provisions to take with us to New Caledonia. This afternoon, Mr. Stuart and company em- barked in three canoes, for the Rocky Moun- tain Portage. Having a little business still to transact, I shall pass the night here. Monday, 15. Rocky Mountain Portage Fort. We here find nearly eight inches of snow. Mr. Stuart and company reached here yester- day ; and I arrived this morning. Between this place and St. John's, the river is very rapid, its banks are high, and the country, on both sides of it, is generally clothed with small tim- ber. Ever since our arrival, we have been era- ployed in delivering goods for this place, and di- viding the remainder among our people, to be taken on their backs, to the other end of the vj- t ■ •. .s 188 Harmon's journal. V '^: portage, which is twelve miles over, tiirough a rough and hilly country. We leave our canoes and take others, at the other end of the car- rying place. '- '' ' '- --- -•** rJ'-^^y .. From the great Slave Lake to this place, there are few rapids, and only one fall ; but at several places, the current is very strong. Yes- terday, we came up one of these places ; and and as our progress was very slow, I went on shore alone, to walk along the beach. Having proceeded some distance, I arrived at a place which I could not pass, without making a con- siderable turn into the woods. I, therefore, left the side of the river, and, after haviog walked a mile or two, I fell upon a well beaten foot- path, which I supposed would take me directly to the fort. After I had followed it for several miles, I perceived that it had been trodden by wild animals, and was as I thought, leading me in a different direction from that which I ought to have taken. I was unwilling to retrace my steps ; and 1, therefore, proceeded in a different direction, hoping soon to come t© the river, far- ther up than the place where I*left it. I march- ed a good pace, for a considerable time, through the snow, eight inches in depth, until I found myself in a swampy country, thickly wooded, when the sun was just sinking below the hori- IIAHMON'S JOURNAL. VI 189 zon. Even while the light lasted, I knew not which way to steer ; but it soon became so dark, that I could not distinguish any object, at the distance of more than ten yards from mc. I had no means of striking fire ; and without this cheer- ing element, it would have been uncomfortable and unsafe encamping. I must have sulfered se- verely with the cold; and might have been torn in pieces by wild boasts, which are numerous in this region. I concluded it best, therefore, to continue walking, until the lighi of the morning should enable me to find the ba»«k of the river. Contrary to my expectation, however, a kind Providence directed my way, out of that dreary swamp, where at every step, I sunk up to my knees in snow, mud and water. i4i)e •^ Wednesday, .17. JVorth West end of the Rocky Moimtain Portage. In the morning, Mr. S. my- self and our company, left the fort ; and, this evening, we reached this place, where we find some of ^ur people, repairing four, crazy, old ca- noes, in which, I should suppose that no one '■'^K*,^ t • ■ i'«1f pit I' t '1 190 HARMON'S JOURNAL. would be willing to embark, who attaches much value to lifcv The remainder of our hands are employed in transporting our baggage, which is still behmd, to this place. They are assisted in doing this, by some of the Natives, who are Sicau- nies. They have just returned from the other side of the Rocky Mountain, where they go to pass the summer months. During the winter season, they remain on this srde of the Mountain, where they find bufifaloes, moose and deer. On the other sidt, none of these animals, excepting a few straggling ones, are to be found. >* m:» i*iw»«.-. «i«t'< The Sicaunies are a quiet, inoffensive people, whose situation exposes them to peculiar difficulties and distresses. When they proceed to the west side of the mountain, the Natives of that region, who are Tacullies and Atenas, attack and kill many of them ; and when they are on this side, the Beaver Indians and Crees, are continually making war upon them. Being thus s, .Tounded by enemies, against whom they are too feeble successfully to contend, they frequently suffer much for want of food ; for when on the west side, they dare not, at all times, visit those places, where fish are in plenty, and when on the east side, they are frequently afraid to visit those parts, where animals abound. They are compelled, therefore, oftentimes to subsist upon the roots, HARMON^S JOURNAL. 191 which they find in the mountains, and which bare- ly enable them to sustain life ; and heir emaci- ated bodies frequently bear witness, to the scan- tiness of their fttre..-«j i v*i^ '-t-m^ ik?»'.?w^ *» ;«* s< Monday, 22. It has snovTed and rained, dur- ing the whole of this day. — We are now in the heart of the Rocky Mountain, the lofty summits of which, on each side of the river, tower majestical- ly toward the heavens, and are perpetually whit- ened by snows, that are never dissolved, by solar heat. They are by far the highest moun- tains that I have ever seen. The timber, which grows upon them, is chiefly spruce fir, birch and poplar. It is a curious fact, in the geography of North America, that so many of the lakes and riv- ers, on the west side of this lofty range of moun- tains, discharge their waters through one narrow passage, in this great barrier, and eventually enter the North Sea. Wedriesday, 21^ Although we have found the current in this river very stroqg, ever since we left the Rocky Mountain Portage, yet, until this day, we have found no place where we were under the necessity of unloading our canoes, in order to stem the current. This afternoon, * t \i If r h\ * [ ^^'r r 192 HARMON'S JOURNAL. mi U 'li , M l|* just as v/e got through the mountain, we passed Finlaj's or the North Branch, which appeals to he of ahout the same magnitude as the South Branch, which we are following. These two branches take their rise in very different direc- tions. The source of the South Branch, is in the Rocky Mountain, at the distance of nearly two hundred miles from the place where we now are. The North Branch runs out of a very large lake, called by the Natives Musk-qua Sa-ky-e-gun, or Bears Lake. This lake, which is so large that the Indians never attempt to cross it in their canoesi and which, those who reside at the east end of it, affirm, extends to the Western Ocean, is situated nearly west from the place where the two bran- ches form a junction, at the distance, as is thought of about one hundred and fifty miles. Both bran- ches, before their junction, run along ihe foot of the mountain, as if in search of a passage through. '■ « Thursday, November 1. M'-Leod^s Lake Fort, This place is situated in 55** North Latitude, and 124** West Longitude. The country lying be- tween this place and Finlay's k^ranch, is thickly covered .with timber, on both sides of the riv- er ; and, on the right, in coming up, the land is low and level. Mountain , it is tri»e, are to be seen ; but they appear at a considerable distance. We have not seen a large animal, nor even the :m Harmon's journal. 193 track of one, since we left the Rocky Moun- tain Portage. About twenty miles from this place, we left Peace River, and have come up a small river, of five or six rods in breadth, which, a little below this, passes through a small lake. Here, we leave our canoes, and take our goods by land, to the establishment at Stuart's Lake, which place is situated nearly one hundred miles to the west from this. There fts a passage by water to that lake ; but it is so circuitous, that we could not make it in less than twelve or fifteen ,J!v>.ir^'; ^k',i- aays. McLeod's Lake may be sixty or seventy miles in circumference. Small white fish and trout are here taken ; but those who reside here subsist, during the greater part of the year, on dried salmon, which are brought in the \vinter, on sledges, drawn by dogs, from Stuart's Lake. The Indians who frequent this establishment, are Sicaunies, and belong to the same tribe with those, who take their furs to the B.)cky Mountain Portage. Their dialect differs but little from that of the Beaver Indians. They appear to be in wretched circumstances, frequently suffering much for want of food; and they are often driven to i;he necessity of subsisting on roots. There are but few large animals, in this part of the country ; and when the snow is five or six (eel 26 1 •!• ;.Hi i ^ f* - ■■h 194 HARMON S JOURNAL* mu deep, as is frequently the case in the winter, few beavers can be taken, nor can many fish be caught, in this cold season of the year. Yet after all the difficulties which these people encounter, in pro- curing a subsistence, such is their attachment to the country that gave them birth, that they would not willingly exchange it, for any other part of the world. .,M^o,1«i;a,':^>^k£li'**ii«i'i:«;*:^. '^mM,.-. ^^m:^ \-i WedmsdiJJ^^rJn . Stuarfs Lake. This lake is called by the Natives Nuck-aws-lay, and the es- tablishment on it, where we now are, is situated in 54° 30' North Lat ude, and in 125° West Longi- tude. On the third instant, I left Mr. Stuart at M^'Leod's Lake, where be designs to pass the winter; and, accompanied by thirteen labouring men, I arrived at this place, this afternoon. In coming here, I passed over an uneven country, which is in general thickly covered with timber. We saw, on our way, several lakes or ponds, one of which was about six miles long. ;^^,..ii,%, ^ This fort sttnds in a very pleasant place, on a rise of ground, at the east end of .StuaiNt's Lake, which I am informed, is at least three hundred miles in circumference. At the distance of about two hundred rods from the fort, a considergible river runs out of the lake, where the Natives, who call themselves Tacullies, have a village or rather a few small huts, built of wood. At these they re- HARMON'S JOURNAL. 19.1 maio during the season for taking and drying sal- mon, on which they subsist^ during the greater part of the year. - - - - , - Monday, 12. I have sent J. M. Quesnel, ac- companied by ten labouring men, with a small as- sortment of goods, to Frazer's Lake, to reestab- lish the post there. That lake lies nearly fifty miles due west from this. We understand that the Indians, this fall, have taken and dried a con- siderable quantity of salmon, in that vicinity. I have also sent people to the other side of this lake, hoping they will take a few white fish, al- though the season, in which we usually take them, is nearly past. ^'* ^— -^ Wednesday, 14. The lake, opposite to the fort, froze over the last night. To day Mr. Stuart and company, arrived from M^Leod's Lake. Saturday, 17. We have now about eight- in- ches of snow on the ground. Sunday, 18. Mr. Stuart and company, have gone to Frazer's Lake. I accompanied them to the other side of this lake, where I saw all the Indians belonging to the village in this vicinity. They amount to about one hundred souls, are very poorly clothed, and, to us, appear to bo in wretched circumstances ; but they are, notwithstanding, con- tented and cheerful. My interpreter informs me,, mn » WM.%^ li ,t l''¥^ ■to U \ Hi 196 Harmon's journal. > i J ! ,.U,l fi. 1* Jf,ll that their language strongly resembles that spok- en by the Sicaunles ; and no doubt they former- ly constituted a part of the same tribe, though they now ditfer from them, in their manners and customs. The Sicaunies bury, while the Tacul- lies, burn their dead. , , ^-- .^- Monday, 26. The corpse of a woman of this place, who died on the 20th instant, was burned this afternoon. While the ceremony was performing, the Natives made a terrible savage noise, by howl- ing, crying, and a kind of singing. Saturday, December 29. Frazer^s Lake. In coming to this place, I passed through a country, which is very rough, and thickly covered with tim- ber, consisting of spruce, fir, poplar, aspin, birch, cy- press, &c. We crossed one considerable moun- tain, and several small lakes. ^ '^' 1 his establishment is at the east end of Fra- zer's Lake, which received its name from that of the gentleman, who first built here, in 1806. At the distance of about a mile from this, there runs out of this lake, a considerable river, where the Natives have a large village, and where they take and dry salmon. This lake may be eighty or ninety miles in circumference, and is well supplied with t,'hite fish, trout, &c. -s? ^n Tuesday^ January 1, 1811. This being the first day of another yea*, our people have passed / Harmon's journal. 197 it, according to the custom of the Can^idians, in drinking and fighting. Some of the principal In- dians -of this place, desired us to allow them to re- main at the fort, that they might see our people drink. As soon as they began to be a little intox- icated, and to quarrel among themselves, the Na- tives began to be apprehensive, that something unpleasant might befal them, also. They, there- fore hid themselves under .beds, and elsewhere, saying, that they thought the white people had run mad, for they appeared not to know what they were about. They perceived that those who were the most beastly in the early part of the day, became the most quiet in the latter part, in view of which, they exclaimed, *' the senses of the white people have returned to them again," and they appeared not a little surprised at the change ; for. it was the first time, that they had ever seen a person intoxicated. Sunday, 27. This day the Natives have burn- ed the corpse of one of their chiefs, who died in the early part of this month. Shortly after his death, one of his nieces painted her face with Ver- million; and, in other respects arrayed herself, in the gayest manner possible. Her mother, observ- ing this unbecoming conduct, reproved her in tho following manner. " Are you not ashamed, my daughtmV said she, '' to appear so gaily clad, so i: r% «■ • :M \ i I ' I , i- - 1\ i M h* . iW'^!k ' 198 Harmon s journal. *llf * f IH tl soon after the deccare of your uncle ? You ought rather to daub your face with black, and to cut your hair short to your head." This reproach for the apparent destitution of natural afifection, so af- flicted the girl, that, soon after, she went into a neighbouring wood, and hung herself, from the limb of a tree. Happily for her, however, some people passed that way, before she had long been in this situation, and took her down. She was, at first, senseless ; but soon after recovered. — Instan- ces of suicide, by hanging, frequently occur, among the women of all the tribes, with whom 1 have been acquainted ; but the men are seldom known to take away their own lives. ' Wednesday, 30. Two nights since, an Indian cut a hole in a window in my room, which is made of parchment, at the distance of not more than two (eet from the foot of my bed, where I lay asleep, and took from a table, near it, several ar- ticles of clothing. The next morning, two other Indians brought back to me a part of the stolen property, and informed me who the thief was, and where he could be found. Soon after, accompa- nied by my interpreter, I went, and found the young villain, in a hut under ground, along with about twelve others, who are as great thieves as himself. I told him, that, as he was young, I hop- ed this was the first time he had ever been guilty of turn all tl would for in future might dc{ returned dians broi which ha( ammuniti( Nearly al them, are are few a ^ Fridax we found any other Mondi er, has tal chiefs, as tribe, evei , ; Fridm ing, I lef Lake, and Mondi seems to ducks of 1 with us ; to make t i. HARMON^S JOURNAL. 199 i'il 1 ought to cut ach for 1, so af- into a 3111 the , some ig been was, at -Instan- , among 1 have known Indian } made } than e I lav ral ar- other stolen as, and 3ompa- id the with ves as I hop- • been guilty of theft ; and, provided he would re- turn all the property which he had taken away, I would forgive this offence ; but if he should ever Id future be guilty of any misconduct toward us, he might depend on being severely punished. I then returned to our house ; and, shortly after, two In- dians brought me the remainder of the property which had been stolen, and I ^ave them a little ammunition, for having made known the thief. — Nearly all the Tacullies, or Carriers as we call them, are much addicted to pilfering; but there are few among them who dare steal from us. Friday, February 15. Yesterday and to-day, we found the cold to be more intense, than at any other time this season. - -t Monday, 18. Baptiste Bouche, my interpret- er, has taken the daughter of one of the Carrier chiefs, as a wife. She is the first woman of that tribe, ever kept by any of the white people. Friday, Jtpril 5. Stuarfs Lake, In the morn- ing, I left and abandoned the post at Frazer's Lake, and arrived here this evening. Monday, 15. The weather is pleasant, and seems to presage an early spring. — Swans and ducks of several kinds, have passed the winter with us ; but bustards and geese, now first begin to make their appearance •'{-'•• ^■-^j \m\im ly-r-fl. 200 HARMON^S JOURNAL. fll .' Sunday i 21. A ^ days since, I sent the greater part of my pet^.e to M*^Leod's Lake, to prepare for tKe voyaore from that place 4o the Rainy Lake. Tomorrow, I shall leave this place myself, in company with Mr. Quesnel and others, for M*'Leod's Lake. I shall take with me my lit- tle son George, who was three years old last De- cember, for the purpose of sending him to my friends in the United States, in order that he may receive an English education. Mr. J. M. Quesnel will have the care oi him, until he shall arrive at Montreal. Wednesday, 24. M^Leod'^s Lake* I find Mr. Stuart and the men very busy, in preparing for the voyage to the Rainy Lake.— The spring here is less advanced, by fifteen days, than it was at Stuart's Lake. This great difference of climate, I conclude, is owing to the fact, that this place lies nearer the mountains* Wednesday, May 8. People have just ar- rived from Stuart's Lake, who inform me that the mother of ray son was delivered on the 25th ultimo, of a daughter, whom I name Polly Harmon. As the ice in Peace River begins to be bad, it is expected that a few days hence the navi- gation will be opened, when Messrs. Stuart, Quesnel, and their company, will embark, with > .\ ^_.*y ri si . Harmon's journal. 201 the returns of this place, for the Rainy Lake. Tomorrow, I design to return to Stuart's Lake, where I expect to pass the ensuing summer. But my attention is chiefly taken up with the separa- tion, which is soon to take place between me and my beloved son. A few months hence, he will be at a great distance from his affectionate father ; and, it may be, I shall never more see him, in this world. No consideration could induce me to send him down, especially while he is so young, except- ing the thought, that he will soon be under the fostering care of my kind relatives, who will be able to educate him much better than it would be possible for me to do, in this savage country. As I do that which I apprehend will be for the ben- efit of my little son, so I earnestly pray, that God would graciously protect him, in his absence from me. '^ ■-^*' ^.i^rn:r>;' i^: n :■•:.• r^ -t.* ■ * Sunday, 12. Stuart^s Lake, Here, I arrived this afternoon, after having passed four of the most disagreeable days that I ever experienced. My spirits were dejected, in view of the depart- ure of my child ; the snow, which was three feet in depth, had become softened by the late warm weather, so that walking was attended with great fatigue ; I broke my snow shoes, on the way, which the Indian lad with me mended as well as our circumstances would permit, though but poor* 26 4. 202 HARMON B JOL'KNAL. f ' ki \y ; and finally we had scarcely any thing to eat. I am happy, therefore, to find myself at a place where I can enjoy a little repose, after such an unpleasant jaunt. Tuesday^ 21. This afternoon, the ice in this lake broke up. Musquetoes begin to come about ; and troublesome companions they arc in the wil- derness, ^'-i^mt- ]>^i^.P ':.^ -y^. Wednaday, 22. As the frost is now out of the ground, we have planted our potatoes, and sowed barley, turnips, &c. which are the first that we ever sowed, on this west side of the mountain. — We now take trout in this lake, with set hooks and lines, in considerable numbers ; but they are not of a good kind. — It is, perhaps, a little remark- able, that pike or pickerel have never been found in any of the lakes and rivers, on the west side of the Rocky Mountain. Tuesday, June 11. Three Indians have arriv- ed from Sy-cus, a village, lying about one hundred and thirty miles down this river, who say, tliat it is reported by others, from farther down, that there is a very extraordinary and powerful being on his way here, from the sea, who, when he ar- rives, will transform me into a stone, as well as perform many other miraculous deeds ; and the simple and credulous Natives fully believe this re- port. , **; 'Tn -V- HARMON S JOURNAL. 203 Sunday^ 16. A nuoiber of Indians have arriv- ed, in six large wooden canoes, from the other end of this lake ; and among them are two, a father and his son, who say, that they belong to a tribe, who call themselves Nate-ote-tains. These are the first of that nation, whom we have ever seen here. They state, that their tribe is numerous, and scattered, in villages, over a large extent of country, lying directly west from this ; and that it is not more than five or six days' march, to their nearest village. They, also, inform us, that a large river passes through their country, and at no considerable distance from it, enters the Pacific Ocean. They, likewise, say, that a number of white people come up that river, in barges, every autumn, in order to trade with the Indians^ who reside along its shores. But I could not learn from them, to what nation those white people be- long. I imagine, however, that they are Ameri- cans, who come round Cape Horn, to carry on, what is called a coasting trade ; for, I cannot learn that they ever attempted to make establishments, along the sea coast. -. i . Tuesday, July 2. Yesterday, five Sicaunieg came here, from M^Leod's Lake, who form a small war party. Their leader, or war chief de- sired me to allow them to go where they might think proper ; upon which, I inquired of them, , h] 'c' 204 Harmon's journal. |.-»;,Ji, k ^"^ whither they wished to direct their course, and wh?t their business was. The speaker repHed, that, when they left their lands, their intention was to go and try to take a scalp or two fronri the Indians of Frazer's Lfike, " who," he added," have done us no injury. But we have lost a relation ; and we must try to revenge his death, on sOiOae one." — This is a custom common to a greater or less extent to all the tribes. -"> ' I asked him whether he supposed that v^e supplied them with guns and ammunition, to ena- ble them :o destroy their fellow creatures, or to kill the beaver, &;c. I added^ that should they, in the fall, bring in an hundred scalps, they could not, with them all, procure a pint of rum, or a pipe full of tobacco ; but, if they would bring bea- rer skins, they would be able to purchase the ar- ticles which they would need. After reflecting for some time on what I had said, the speaker in- formed me, that they would, in compliance with my advice, return and hunt the beaver ; and they performed their promise, by proceeding immedii' ately to their own lands. Monday^ 29. Several days since, one of our men, who remains at M<=Leod's Lake, came here with the information, that there were Indians lurking around that fort, waiting, as was sup- posed, for a favourable opportunity to attack HARMON'S JOURNAL 205 '.-'*■:• it. I, accordingly, went over, hoping that I should be able to ascertain who thej were ; but 1 have not been able to obtain the least information re- specting them. Probably, they had not courage to make the attack, and have returned to their own lands* x-u^j^'' :'ii,«*f**»>ii.'^^(»iB' ^. Shad berries begin to ripen, which is about twenty days later than they ripen, in the same Latitude, on the east side of the Rocky Moun- tain. •- -'- -'' - • Friday, August 2. Our whole stock of provis- ions in the fort, for ten persons, consists of live sal- mon, only. It is impossible, at this season, to take fish out of this lake or river. Unless the salmon from the sea, soon make their appearance, our condition will be deplorable* iS ' Saturday, 10. Sent all our people, consisting of men, women, and children, to gather berries at Pinchy, a village about twelve miles distant froitj this, toward the other end of this lake. At no great distance from that village, as I am informed, there is a small lake, out of which the Nativei? take small fish, which very much resemble a sal- mon in shape and in flavour, which are not more than six inches long. They are said to be very palatable ; but, if they were not so, they would be very acceptable to us, in our present circum- stances. * Vflft^' 206 Harmon's journal. ' Thursday^ 22. One of the Natives has caught a salmon, wliich is joyful intelligence to us all ; for we hope and expect, that, in a few days, we shall have them in abundance. These fish visit, to a greater or less extent, all the rivers in this region, and form the principal dependence of the inhabi- tants, as the means of subsistence. Monday^ September 2. We now have the common salmon in abundance. They weigh from five to seven pounds. There are, also, a few^ of a larger kind, which will weigh sixty or seventy pounds. Both of them are very good, when just taken out of the water. But, when dried, as they are by the Indians here, by the heat of the sun, or in the smoke of a fire, they are not very palatable. When salted, they are excellent, t H«*a «r».»