r ^ ^n*)3 N^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3\ fc rv. 1.0 1.1 11.25 bilM 125 ifi 12.0 ' t Ptioliographic Sdences Corporalion \'^ 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WttSm,N.Y. 14510 (7U)S72-4S03 , 4^ % V I o \ 1 ',: ^ i. L .:5 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/iCMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Inslltuta for Hiitorical Microraproductioni / Institut Canadian da mlcroraproductiont hittoriquaa mmm9mimf»<3f'"i>^mnmtvmnKr«i'ifiwma m«fawMiPi«MPiiipiH!Mni ■**H^B^*tli»»3»jtj, I Tachnitist and Bibliographic Notas/Notas tachniquas at bibliographiquas ^ Tha Instltuta ha« attampt^ti to obtain tha baat original copy availabia for filming. Faaturas of this copy which may ba bibliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagas in tha reproduction, or which may significantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad baiow. D D D □ Coloured maps/ Cartas gtegraphiquas an coulaur Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^ et/ou pellicuiie Cove tie missing/ Le titre de couverture manque D D D D D D Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bieue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustr8«^ions en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distorsion le long de la marge IntArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutAes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte. mais, lorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont pas it* film^es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires: L'Institut a microfilm* le meilleur exemplaira qu'il lui a iti possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaira qui sont paut-itre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, i j qui peuvent «xiger una modification dans la mtithoda normale de fiimage sont indiquis ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur S Pages damaged/ Pages endommagtes □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou pellicul^s r~n Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dicolorAes, iacheties ou piquAes Pages detached/ Pag..s dttachies Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality inAgale de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel suppMmentaire Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible I I Pages detached/ I I Showthrough/ I — I Quality of print varies/ r~n Includes supplementary material/ rn Only edition available/ D Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc.. have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata. une pelure, etc.. ont Ati filmAes A nouveau de fapon A obtenir la mailleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 18X 22X 10X 14X 26X XX 12X 16X 20X ^ 28X 32X i. ■■raM!'''!*'>*P'''W^J*yj*'^^^*P''W'^*lV.i.* A >' / / L-iO 120 100'' WestoiT, 1_ THi: SKAilCIl FOR 11U<: NORTH-WEST PASSAGK ''''"■«>«,«'' / 367 =^; \ •'A I >* r^ ^1 I' % ■■\ W.;:/a^a». M^i.-^- : a THK KNIGHTS OF THE FROZEN SEA. CHAPTER I. EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. Three centuries have now passed away since a ce- lebrated old English navigator declared that 'the only great thing left to be done in this world of ours was the discovery of the north-west passage to India.' It was a singular idea, yet one which has been taken up and thoroughly worked out by c succession of ardent spirits, down to our own times. They did not, it is true, consider it the only great thing re- maining undone ; but they thought it a sufficiently great one to occupy all their best energies, and to justify the risking of their own and many other valuable lives. Only in our own times has the discovery been pade, after all ; and now that it is made no one at present knows what to do with it ; for the dangers B TT.^Ili I ,1 ^^<^«iffriasfe!*$*!,.>fisti ' 2 EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. are too great, and the Arctic summers too short, to allow of vessels going that way. This is not, however, the place in which to dis- cuss the utility of the object, or the prudence of those who went or sent forth to seek it. We have to tell our tale ; and that tale, we venture to sayj will be found as full of interesting, romantic, and instruc- tive incidents, as any which the many volumes of voyages and travels about the globe can furnish. " When the tale is done we may, perhaps, be in a better position to say 'what good has come of it all.' It is at least one which, ii many ways, reflects glory on our country ; and few, except Britons, have any part in it : for this particular field of discovery seems long to have been regarded as our own special ground, and other nations have almost entirely re- signed it to us. England has, indeed, always been forward in the work of discovering new shores ; and though once by no means so enterprising as some of the other Euro- pean nations, she yet began eaxly; and her naval spirit, as well as power, has been increasing down to the present time. It was in the reign of our great Alfred that Englishmen made their first voyage of discovery— at least, the first of which we have any record ; and that one was in a northerly direction. At that time the Venetians were the first mari- time power in Europe, and its great carriers. Th^ traded with all the rich products of Turkey and B too short, to which to dis- B prudence of :. We have to ire to sayj will c, and instruc- ay volumes of m furnish, rhaps, he in a las come of it Y ways, reflects t Britons, have Id of discovery )ur own special ost entirely re- L forward in the though once hy the other Euro- and her naval easing down to eat Alfred that if discovery — at ecord ; and that ) the first mari- carriers. ThCT of Turkey and M' ♦ I * SIMON OTHO. s India, bringing the latter by the overland route; and of this traflfic they were determined to maintain the monopoly. So that if an English or French vessel ventured into the Mediterranean it was im- mediately seized, either by the Venetians or the Moors, and the crew carried into slavery. But besides this, heavy taxes, intended for the support of the Romish Church, crushed the commerce of England. These, therefore, the king repealed; and feeling that it was useless to think of rivaling the Venetians on their own coasts, he determined to try to find another way of reaching those far Eastern countries from whence they drew their wealth. The field which he entered was one since chiefly occupied by the Russians, namely, the search for the north-east paaaage. In the early chronicles we read of a commission given by him to a certain Simon Otho, or Ochter, to take under his command ' the goode ship Adel- githa,' and with her to sail across seas, to discover lands unknown, all ' for the glorye of God, the honour of his kinge, and publique goode of his countrie.' It was only the southern parts even of Norway and Sweden that were then known to Europe, nor did any one presume to say how the land lay beyond a very moderate latitude; but there was an impression that, somehow or other, ships might sail in a north- easterly direction until they reached India on the ,^other side. Simon Otho seems, therefore, to have been the i|iv -^HtwptKfeMiiiwiiiir' 4 EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. first to attempt the north-east passage ; and taking his instructions from a Danish pirate he set forth, imagining that, about latitude 55° north, he should find a sea which washed the northern shores of Eu- rope and Asia, and by which ho might sail round to the desired haven. Knowing nothing of the peculiar dangers of the Baltic, he soon reached that sea ; and almost imme- diately his ship struck on a rock, now known as Falsterbom Reef; and he and his crew were placed in great jeopardy. However, the ' Adelgitha' was got off, and after being repaired at what is now probably the town of Elsinore, she was brought back to the North Sea ; and they continued their voyage along the coast as far as latitude 68° north, where, getting among the numerouL rocky islands of that part, the 'goode ship ' again met with much damage, and her captain's courage cooled; so that, satisfied that no one had ever been so far north as himself, he turned and came back home again. This is one account. But, another says that he reached as far as to the river Kola, if not to the White Sea itself. The narrative drawn up by King Alfred, from Otho's own story, speaks of whales and reindeer, and describes the Fins. It has called forth the praises of modem writers on account of its remark- able clearness; so that, perhaps, the difficulty of deciding on the limit of the voyage arises from the misrepresentations of later chroniclers. The under- taking does not appear to have been followed up. : * yi^"' ^ J^l J iTi* ^^ ,« .J*S_S,»_«.«.*^'t«3W=.^^ * j.Jg 1 m ; and taking; he set forth, rth, he should shores of Eu- sail round to langers of the almost imme- ow known as V were placed , off, and after y the town of e North Sea; ; the coast m ng among the t, the *goode i her captain's ,t no one had te turned and iccount. But , 8 to the river J Alfred, from and reindeer, lied forth the of its remark- e difficulty of irises from the . The under- 1 followed up, EIREK RAUDA. O for troublous times succeedea; but in this, as in many other things, the reign of Alfred seemed to give a sort of picture of England's future character and condition. There cat* be no doubt that the firs to enter on that field of discovery, which has obtained the honour of knighthood for Ross, Parry, B'ranklin, and so many others, were the old sea-rovers of the North. And very probably, if the riches of the southern countries of Europe had not so strongly drawn them in that direction, their roving disposition might have long ago led them on to the point which we have only so recently attained, and which to a Northern people, and a very hardy one, would have proved so much less difficult to reach. As it was, they no doubt sometimes wandered for the very sake of wander'.ng ; and the first-fruits of their discoveries was the island of Iceland, at first named by them Snowland, on which some of them were driven by a violent storm, about the end of the , ninth century, and which they soon decided to colo- nise, making it a refuge for all who were oppressed at home. A century passed, and the Icelanders received into their body a powerful Norwegian chieftain, who had been banished for homicide. His son Eirek, sumamed Rauda, * the Red,' from his sanguinary die- position, soon followed him ; and finding no occu- pation in the colony which suited his tast«s, and being, possibly, obliged, to leave it, he resolved to make a voyage of discovery to a land on which one 6 EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. of hifl countr^'Hien had been driven by a Btorm ; and BO he set out westward, A.D. 982. Soon two lofty raountains met his view, and these he called Huitserken and Blaarserken — White Shirt and Blue Shirt — one being covered with snow and the other with ice. He landed on a little island, just south of Cape Farewell, and spent the winter there. In the spring he explored the mainland, and happening to find one part covered with verdure, he called the country * Greenland,' because he said Beand'-navUn Veael. that ' a good name would induce people to go and settle there : ' though, as an old writer says,* ' Green- land is a place in nature nothing like unto the name : for certainly there is no place in the world yet known and discovered that is less green than it.' So Eirek, the Red Hand, both discovered and named Greenland ; and what is very surprising, when we think of the scanty provisions generally carried in those days, w6 read that he remained there three years, and returned to Iceland only to describe • Purchas. '.\,'1»W JTH^ "TP |m a Rtorm ; and bis and view, jrken — White red with snow a little island, snt the winter mainland, and with verdure, icause he said iple to go and says,* 'Green- anto the name : jrld yet known it.' iiscovered and irprising, when morally carried emained there nly to describe LEIF. 7 to his countrymen its wonderful advantages ; "and then the next year he went back with numerous followers, and settled on a creek which was named after him, Eireksfjord, which soon became an im- portant colony. A few years after this, Eirek's own son, Leif, visited the first Christian king of Norway, was converted himself, and soon went over to the new colony, taking a piiest with him to preach Christi- anity to the colonists. In A.D. 1121 their first bishop was consecrated, and for three centuries the colony and church con- tinued to flourish. But after that, strange to say, both went to ruin, and very soon altogether dis- appeared. Of this extraordinary circumstance many writers have tried to discover the cause; and some have supposed that, owing to the hindrances thrown in the way of their trade by the mother-country, they were really starved out : but, in fact, it is a mystery which no one has yet explained. All we know is that these colonies did exist, and are gone. > There is reason, however, to believe that Green- land was not all of the new hemisphere discovered by the Northmen. It is said that a son of one of Eirek's companions, wishing again to winter at the paternal hearth, fitted out a vessel and tried to follow his father. But not knowing the land, or how to reach it, this Bjami was much driven about, and at last saw land, which did not answer to the descrip- tions which he had heard of Greenland. When at length he reached his father's dwelling, this won- 't.. II •^ ';*' :/ EARLIBST ARCTIC VOYAGES. . derflil voyage of his was much ttilked about, and the .consequence was that about A.D. 1000 I^eif, the son of Eirek, of whom we have spoken, iitted out a vessel and started on a voyage of discovery. He soon made the land described by Bjarni, a rugged plain of broad flat Tccks, which would appear to have been Newfoundland ; and next came to another part, the description of which answers to that of the north coact of Nova Scotia, where he and his companions built houses and passed the winter, returning to Greenland next spring laden with timber and grapes, after naming the country in which they had been staying Vinland — the land of the vine. They visited it from time to time, but seem never to have attempted to colonise it. Besides what we have related above, we have a very mysterious account of a voyage said to have been made in the twelfth century by Madoc, prince of Wales, to some part of the American continent ; but little can be made of it. A citizen of Marseilles also performed a voyage to the north in those early times ; but where he went we do not know, as he only tells us that ' his progress was at length ar- rested by a barrier of a peculiar nature, being neither earth, air, nor sky, but something composed of all three, through which he could not penetrate I' Another account of a north-western voyage, that of the two Zenos, has become more generally known, and certainly produced great results, as we shall see as we go on. ...asgaa^'- ibout, and the I^eif, the son iitted out a iscovery. He krni, A rugged lid appear to me to another irs to that of re he and his i the winter, ; laden with le country in id — the land me, but seem it. )ove, we have ) Baid to have Madoc, prince 'an continent; 1 of MarseilleB in those early ; know, bb he at length ar- nature, being ling composed ot penetrate 1' a voyage, that lerally known, is we shall see BEBAfrriAN CABOT. Nicolo Zeno and his brother were two Venci travellers, who, on a voyage to one of tlie wester countries of Europe, were caught in a storm, and cast away on a strange coast, which some suppose to have l>een Greenland, some an island nearer home. In the old records it is called ' Engrone- land.' Leaving all these early attempts, we will now pass on to sketch the history of those which, be- ginning in the reign of Henry VII., hu:<» been followed by others in a constant succe«8ion down to our own ' age of travelling.' The discovery of America by Columbus had set many a man longing to share in his honours, by being the first to bring to light some other unknown aud new land ; and though England had missed this honour, her spirit was aroused when she found that not only had Spain been before her here, but that Portugal also was boldly launching forth her ves- sels on the ocean, and that Vasco de Gama had found out for her the passage to India round the Cape of Good Hope. So, when Sebastian Cabot proposed to attempt to outdo Portugal by finding another passage of half the length round the north-west coast of North America, the idea waa entertained even by Henry VII. himself. This Sebastian was a Venetian, and the son of an adventurous navigator then residing, as a merchant, in Bristol. He himself is said to have been bom there ; and very early, he tells us, he ' felt in his heart a great flame of desire to do some notable thing.' *l . («■' 10 Karlieht arptic voyaoes. He is Miiid to have Iwen the firitt to attempt the North-we»t ToBHage ; and a Iwld Hchenu) it wuh for tlio«o timcH, when ho little was known of the new continent at all. But he does not seem to have expected to b« obliged to Hteer very far to the north before he found the ocean across which he intended to sail direct for •the land of Cathay' — that mysterious country of vast and unknown treasures. ' Understanding,' he said, • by reason of the sphere, that if he should sail by nortla-west he should, by a shorter track, come to India,' he ' caused the king to be advertised of his device, because all men thought it a thing more divine than human to sail by the west into the east, where spices do grow;' and the king quickly ordered two caravels to be prepared, with all things necessary for so long a voyage. In the summer of 1496 he set sail ; but when he found that, instead of quickly finding t. j upper coast, he was forced to continue his course more and still more to the northward, because the land went on, as it appeared, interminably in that direction, he became greatly disheartened, especially as the coast of Newfound- land, at which he touched, promised no such riches as Spain had found in the south. A cold, dreary place it seemed to him ; and the people he described as * like to brute beasts in their behaviour, dressed in beasts' skins, and eating raw flesh ;' so, after taking away from thence three of the poor Esquimaux as specimens, he sailed south- wards, and soon came in sight of Florida. Then, his ) attempt the )iue it WttH for m of the new jxpected to be >efore he found ) sail direct for 3U8 country of erstanding/ he ' he Bhould sail er track, come e advertised of ,t a thing more tt into the east, king quickly with all things the summer of that, instead of was forced to 1 more to the , as it appeared, became greatly t of Newfound- uo such riches 9 him ; and the e beasts in their and eating raw thence three of lie sailed south- •rida. Then, his 1; Hra^sTIA'': cabot. . v.ai ••*■ • victuals fiiiling him, he departed and returned t*;^ . Engknd; where ho HtaU^d, that in the montli of July "^ t he had found in thone seas • Huch great h.uipos of ise ' that ho ♦ durst passe no fiirther : aUo, that the dayes were very long, and in maner witliout nyght, and the nyghteH very clear.' SebuHtiuu Cabot has con8e«iuently betm generally considered as the discoverer of these two countries, Newfoundland and Florida ; though some suppose that his own father, John Cabot, had previously visited the former, even at an earlier date than that in which Columbus discovered the West Indies and South America. HeA the great Alfred, instead of the mean and sordid Henry, been then on the throne, the records of these events would have been regarded as matter of some interest, and would have been more carefully kept, and not allowed to • moul- der in one of the lanes of the metropolis.' But men sailed then in search of gold ; and such discoveries as these were of little account. Sebastian Cabot returned to find England in a great ferment, on accoimt of the rising of Perkin War- beck and the preparations for a war with Scotland ; and seeing his design overlooked, he some time after- wards entered the service of Spain, and made many voyages under the auspices of the Spanish king. But though the report of these new lands was little thought of in England, yet Portugal, then the greatest maritime power in the world, eagerly followed it up. By her discovery of the passage round the Cape ■.Lj.-«'i 12 EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. she had struck a fatal blow at the powrtr of her great rival, Venice ; and her sons were not slew in pursuing their advantage. Multitudes of them were flocking to the New World ; and now that another part of it was laid open, they made ready to enter that also. In A.D. 1500, only two years after the return of Cabot, Gaspar Cortereal, a gentleman of high birth in the court of King Emmanuel of Portugal, sailed from Lisbon, and after touching at the Azores, pur- sued his course in a north-westerly direction, until he came to the coast of Labrador, to which he gave the name of Terra Verde, and which some have therefore confounded with Greenland, though Sir John Barrow shows that this is a mistaken notion. Gaspar Cortereal, like Cabot, was the son of a naval adventurer ; and his father also is said to have been in these northern seas before him. Gaspar explored the coast for some hundreds of rriiles, and took home with him some specimens of its in- habitants, \7ho, according to the opinion of a Vene- tian ambassador, given in a letter to his brother after Corisrears return, were * admirably calculated for labour, and the best slaves he had ever seen.' That 'might is right' was certainly the pr^.- vailing maxim of that day : nor did many persons then seem to feel th"-^ elves bo.md to 'keep their bands from picking and stealing,' except in their owu native lands. On this principle had Alonzo Gonzales, twenty years before, suggested that the poor Africans might be appropriated by civilized nations, and even built tho fort of D'Elmina for the .f JF,';iiSwvv=*iK5i^'^.-,„! V OYAGES. he powrtr of her great e not slciw in pursuing )f them were flocking lat another part of it r to enter that also. ■8 after the return of tleman of high birth el of Portugal, sailed g at the Azores, pur- isterly direction, until lor, to which he gave id which some have reenland, though Sir .8 a mistaken notion, lot, was the son of a er also is said to have before him. Gaspar imdreds of rmles, and ■ipecJmens of its in- le opinion of a Vene- letter to his brother admirably calculated i he had ever seen.' OS certainly the pr^,- lor did many persons 30. md to 'keep their ing,' except in their principle had Alonzo i, suggested that the opriated by civilized t of D'Elmina for the THL' CORTEREAM. 18 purpose; thus earning for himself the infamy of being the originator of the African slave-trade. And 80 it was planned to use the mild and laborious Esquimaux, though, happily, that scheme fell to the ground. Next year Gaspar was sent out again, and en- deavoured to penetrate still further north. A stonn, however, arose as he was entering a strait, which was probably Hudson's ; and he was never heard of more. When the other vessel which had accom- panied him returned with the news, his brother Michael setoff in search of Gaspar ; but of him also no tidings ever reached home: and the king, who had brought the brothers up, and was much troubled at their loss, positively refused to allow the third to risk his life. He sent out armed vessels himself in search, but they met with no success ; so the land, which Gaspar had named Terra Verde, was, after them, called 'the land of the Cortereals.' It was in 1524, the year before the battle of Pavia, that France followed the example of her neighbours, and fitted out four vessels for an Arctic voyage. The command of the expedition was given to a Florentine named Giovanni Verazzano ; and he must have been a man of great energy and ability— well suited to the trust; for we read that he coasted along the whole of what is now the United Slates, as well as a good part of British America. But when he returned and found Francis a prisoner, the French army destroyed, and his country half-ruined. t':'i ma.'.^.. •■lanfl^pm 14 EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. lili he did not, it may be supposed, meet with all the honour or encouragement which he had so well earned; and ten years parsed before the French made another attempt. Jacques Cartier was then sent out ; and he made two voyages, in the course of which he circumnavi- gated Newfoundland— 'the land of Cod Fish,' as it had been called — discovered the Isle of the As- sumption, explored the Gulf of St. Lawrence, which he also named, ascended the river St. Lawrence, and got into friendly relations with the natives, who brought their paralytic old king, Agonhanna, to be toucher"- s«nd cured, as they hoped, by the Admiral. The French party remained some time at Hochlaga — or Montreal, as it has since been called, f colli the French name, Mont Royale — and learnt from the Incuoiis not only a cure for the scurvy, from which they saffered much, in a decoction of the leaves and bark of the North American white pine, but also became acquainted with tobacco. And great was their amazement when they first saw the natives * suck it so long, and fill their bodies so full of smoke that it came out of tiieir mouths and nostrils, even as out of the tunnel of a chimnoy ! ' But as no gold or silver had been found, the French king was not particularly well satisfied with their expedition, and oared not to undertake the ext/ense of another ; nor was it till four years after that Cartier was enabled to revisit the country, by joining in the private expedition of a French noble- man who wished to settle there. k.^ II illiTin-iiiiitiiilrn » i| l ii| [f | - .|iMi 5S. ROBERT THORN E. 15 et with all the le had so well re the French t ; and he made he circumnavi- Cod Fish,' as it sle of the As- jaw fence, which St, Lawrence, he natives, who gonhanna, to be f the Admiral. some time at Dce been called, de — and learnt for the scurvy, a decoction of American white 1 with tobacco. sn they first saw 1 their bodies so idir mouths and a chimnoy 1 ' t)een found, the ill satisfied with > undertake the four years after the country, by El French noble> Had ho not most disgracefully, on the first oc- casion, rewarded the kindness of the natives by car- rying off their old chief, Donnaconna, into France, they might easily have done this. But now Cartier was very differently received ; and they had to build a fort for their own defence on the site of the present city, Montreal. But to return to English enterprises. Cabot began his Arctic researches, as we have seen, in the reign of Henry VII. In the reign of Henry VIII. there appear to have been two Polar expeditions; and both were made by Englishmen. Of these, however, the records are but scanty. The first was undertaken by a merchant of Bristol of the name o*' Robert Thome, who, having long re- sided at Seville, where he had heard much of the treasures pouring into the Spanish coffers from the New World, as well as froEi Iidia, memorialized the king on the subject. He urged on his attention that, by sailing north- ward and passing the Pole, they would get at the East Indies by a mttch. sh<»ti9r route than that lately discovered round the south of Africa ; and, besides, that three-fourths of the world being discovered by other princes, this remaining one was the only way open to glory: and so enthusiastic was he in the matter, that he even persuaded himself that men had overrated the severity of the cold in the extreme north ; and maintained that the danger probably lay only some little way before the Pole is reached, and after it is passed. ' After which,' he said, • it is clear ia 111 -If *:«■ ■aa Umii 1« EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. that from thenceforth the seas and lands are as tem- perate as in :he8e parts I ' Two ships were, it appears, at length granted to this eager man ; one of which was cast away on the Canvel : time of Honry VIII. coast of Newfoundland, and of the other there is no record. The other expedition was undertaken by a Lon- doner, a certain Master Hore ; who is described as * a ss. nds are as tem- agth granted to ist away on the other there is Aken by a Lon- described as ' a MASTER HORE. 17 man of goodly stature and great courage, and given to the study of cosmography.' He took with him a hundred and twenty persons, thirty of whom were gentlemen who belonged to the Inns of Court, and sailed to the coast of Newfoundland, where they got into such fearful distress that they had begun to kill and eat one another, when a French vessel arrived, of which the English contrived to make themselves masters ; and out of which they took provisions enough to carry them home. The French followed, and com- plained of the outrage which hud been committed on them ; but Henry was so touched at the tale of his poor subjects' sufferings, that, though he well repaii*. the French for their loss, he refused to punish those who had done the wrong. Henry, however, took very little interest ia any of these voyages : but of his young son, Edward, we are told, that ' naval affairs had seized his mind as a sort of passion ;' and that • while yet a child he knew all the ports and harbours in his dominions, as well as in France and Scotland, how much water was in them, and what was the way of coming into them.' Sebastian Cabot returned to England, which he regarded apparently as his native land, in his old age ; and his worth was soon discovered by the young king, by whom, it is said, he was created Grrand Pilot of England, with a pension of 250 marks, or 166i. 13«. 4d. of our money, ' in consideration of the good and acceptable service done by him.' It is at least certain, that he was placed at the c iIamP 18 EARLIEST ARCrriC VOYAQES. m head of a company of merchants, who were making preparations for a north-eastern voyage of dis- covery. Sir Hugh Willoughby, who, if not much of a sailor, is described as a most valiant gentleman, was appointed to the command of this expedition ; while Richard Chancelor, a * man of great estimation for the many good parts of wit in him,' was captain of one of the three ships fitted out : and Cabot drew up the instructions for their guidance. Notwithstanding the ill success of various previous voyages the present adventurers started in high spirits, dropping down to Greenwich, where the court lay in a kind of triumph, and being met there by a rush of courtiers and common people, who flew to the banks as they passed, and gave them as heai-ty a cheering as if they were returning in f-ill success, in- stead of only setting out on a most perilous, and, as it proved, a very mournful expedition. At the North Cape, Cbancelor's ship got sepa- rated from the other vessels in a storm ; and they never met again. « Willoughby and the third ship continued their course to Nova Zembla, and even tried to reach a more northerly latitude, but were soon obliged to turn ; and at length the two crews, consisting of sixty persons, got shut up bv the ice on the coast of Russian Lapland, where they all perished miserably^ Sir Hugh Willougby's body was found frozen to death by some Russian fishermen two years after. A journal lay beside him ; and his last entiy told how i. WILLOUOHBY AND CHANCELOR. 19 > were making oyage of die- lot much of a gentleman, was )edition; while estimation for was captain of Cabot drew up various previous tarted in high where the court met there by a who flew to the em as hearty a f'll! success, in- perilous, and, as 1. ship got sapa- itorm ; and they continued their tried to reach a soon obliged to (?8, consisting of !e on the coast of rished miserably^ found frozen to '0 years after. A t entiy told how parties had been sent out several ways in search of some human habitation, but without success. An attempt was made to bring home the bodies of the adventurers in their own vessels; but they sank by the way; and thus those who were con- ducting them were also lost. Cbancelor, meantime, hid bec-n more fortunate. He had resolutely held on his way until he came to the White Sea, and landed at Archangel, where he learnt from the fishermen that he was in the do- minions of a great sovereigjn, named Ivan Vasilovitch, who held his court at Moscow, six hundred miles away. At orce he determined to visit this monarch ; and although they had to travel the whole distance over the snow in sledges, he carried out his purpose, and thus laid the foundation of our commercial in- tercourse with Russia. The company of mer- chants, who from thenceforth were known as the Muscovy Company, were so well pleased with his success that they soon sent him out again, both to trade and to make fresh discoveries. On his return from this second voyage he brought with him an ambassador, who had been sent by the emperor to visit the court of Philip and Mary; but a storm overtook them at sea, and Cbancelor, with many of his crew, was lost, though the ambassador escaped, and was graciously received by the king and queen. Meantime, another Russian expedition, com- manded by Stephen Burrough, had been sent out by the same company, in which the ' goode olde gentle- "t.:,.:l, 20 EARLIEST ARCTIC VOYAGES. 1 1 man, Master Cabote,' took such interest, that beibre they set out he gave a great banquet, at which, 'for very joy that he had to see the towardness of their discovery, he entered into the dance himselfe amongst the rest of the young and lusty company. Burrough, however, made no very particular addition to the knowledge then possessed of those northern coasts. ~i"," «! . !■; est, that before , at which, ' for xdness of their lauce hitnselfe lusty company.' very particular sessed of those 21 CHAPTER II. SIR MARTIN FR0BI8HER AND HIS SUCCESSORS. We have come now to the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a reign so rich in great characters that it is not sur- prising that amongst the list we find several who have distinguished themselves as naval adventurers, and as adventurers in those parts of the ocean which come within our province. First, we have Martin Frobishef, a name generally known, perhaps, chiefly in connexion with the defeat of the Spanish Armada; and yet he was in his day a well-known man long before his share in that great event gained him the honour of knighthood. ^ Very early in life he had set his beart on the same design which had so much occupied the mind of Sebastian Cabot, namely, the discovery of the North-west Passage; and so convinced was he of the importance and practicability of the scheme, that for fifteen long years he went about agitating the subject before he succeeded in gaining a hearing. But fame was his object; and as he conceived that • no other great thing remained to be done in the world,' and that, therefore, this was the only road to it, he persevered, until at length, in 1576, mmm 22 SIB MARTIN FB0BI8HEB. it! Ambrose Dudley, earl of Warwick, took up his cause, and he was enabled to equip three vessels of 35, 30, and 10 tons respectively, with which he sailed down the Thames, the Queen standing at her window at Greenwich as he passed, and waving her hand as a pa'-ting greeting; while a gentleman despatched by her went on board to wish them ' happie succesbb,' and to • make known her goode likings of their doings.' The voyage was tolerably prosperous; and in July the vessels arrived at what Frobisher took for •the yriezland of Zeno,'— an imaginary country on which that old Venetian traveller is said to have been wrecked, but which really appears to have been the southern coast of Greenland. They tried to land, but a violent storo- arose, in which the pin- nace, with her crew of four, was 'ost ; and then the crew of the 'Gabriel,' 'mistrusting the matter, privily conveyed themselves away,' and reached England safely soon after. But Frobishev's courage still kept up. When otL.rs had been faint-hearted during the violence of the late tempest he had distinguished himself by his calmness, and encouraged them by his quiet self- possession and presence of mind ; and now that his own vessel was left tn the Greenland after many days ;he dreary shores ESQUIMAUX. 23 of Labrador. There, the vessel becoming shut in on the outside by an impenetrable barrier of ice, at length entered a strait to Which Frobisher gave his own name. Along the banks of this strait they soon perceived some strange beings whom, at first sight, they took for porpoises, but who turned out to be Baqulmaux with their Kivjuki. Esquimaux, in their kajaks, or boats; and they hastened to make acquaintance with them. No doubt these people were, in all respects, much the same as their descendants of the present day. ' Salvage people,' he described them, • like to Tartars, having long black hair, broad faces, and flatte noses; and the women being marked on the face with blewe streekes downe the cheekes and I jl 24 Bin MARTIN FROBISIIKR. round the cyci,' and wearing ' bootPH made of wftl ■kinuea, in shape somewhat resembling the shallop? of Spain.' But the loss of a Iwat's crew of five men soon cut ■hort any attempts at a nearer acquaintance with these people; for when 'they had often in vain called them back by the soimd of trumpeta and the firing off of falconets,' I'robisher, taking it for cer- tain that some wrong had been done them by the natives, in revenge enticed one of them to the side of the ship by the tinkling of a bell, and then • pluckt him up, boat and all ;' and, with him on board, set ■ail for England, the poor fellow, in his rage and despair, biting his own tongue in half by the way. At home the captain was well received, and treated as a person who had done great things, not- withstanding that he had failed in the main object of his voyage ; but It wm a little accidental circum- stance that turned the nation'* hearty welcome into a perfect frenzy of enthusiMin, and made him the lion of his day. Most of his party had brought some little me- mento of the land from whence they had come— some flowers, some grass, or stones ; and Frobisher had taken possession of one of these stones, in order that he might have something to show hit. " ands. It WM black, and remarkably weighty ; and when one of his acquaintance asked for a piece of it, he willingly bestowed it on htr. By some accident this piece of black stone got thrown into a fire, where it burned for some time, and when taken out 11: Mtnia THK QOLifKN BUDDI.E. 25 I mndo of «•»! )g tho shallop? i men Boon cut iaintance with often in vain inipetfl and the :ing it for eer- ie them by the lem to the Bide id then • pluckt n on board, Bet a his rage and F by the way. received, and ?at things, not- he main object idental circum- ;y welcome into made him the Bome little me- ey had come — and Frobisher stones, in order how hiii " "3ndB. r ; and when one piece of it, he some accident wn into a fire, when taken out ftnd • (luenched in a little vinegar, it gliBt.neil with a bright nmr.|U.«HHet of guide.' hiHtuntly curiosity wuh awakened about it. and when some gold-fineri of London, to whom it was shown, declared Jiat the ore conlaiiHHl much gold, m*"ir^**i«*!.-^.^«*te*--- [SHER. 'om the caution, that and it was desirable mat *be careful how Frobisher himself seems to have been caught by the golden vision, and either turned by it from his original design, or else he felt himself obliged to yield to circumstances. The next voyage appears to have been entirely devoted to collecting the supposed golden ore, which was found chiefly on a little is- land named by them the ' Countess of War- wick's Isle.' They took back with them about 200 tons of the mineral, and were rapturously received on their return. Sud that < the matter nee, and made show [,' as she said, though, that the hope of the HIS SECX>ND VOYAGE. passage to Cathaia by this last voyage greatly increased,' gave the name of ' Meta Incognita' to the newly-discovered country, and determined to colo- nise it. ■ J J 11. A hundred persons of various tradei and callings were appointed as the first settlers, and fifteen vessels were prepared to carry them across the ocean, Frobisher being made commander-in-chief of the expedition. Of these, twelve ships were to return laden with the ore, and the other three were to remaiu with the colonists. And in a few weeks they rsachec? their destination, though only after passing tarough fearful dangers and distresses. One vessel, indeed, which carried a large wooden house,' intended for the immediate occupation of the colonists, had been crushed between the icebergs, and had immediately foundered ; and another had, under cover of night or of one of the fogs, turned her helm and sailed for England ; but th. rest of the fleet continued to knock about in the midst of * incredible paine and periU,' until a fresh breeze sprang up, and, driving the ice before it, left them an open sea through which to sail. Then their spirits revived, and, nothing daunted, they set to work to repair the damage which they had sustained ; and resolving, as they expressed it, to push on 'towards the inward,' they soon had sight of land, which they supposed to be some country on the north-east of Frobisher s Strait. But new troubles awaited them ; for in a short iiiiiMfcuiwriMmrnmniiMii fll '"H SIR MARTIN FROBISHER. time the whole fleet was enveloped in thick mists and fogs, and the ships, becoming separated one from another, again beat about at random, amidst the horrible noise of the ice grinding and crushing against the chips' sides, not knowing where they were, or in what direction they were moving. When at length the sky became clearer, and some communication could be held between the vessels, the pilot declared that the strait was one which he had never seen before ; but Frobisher, though from the first he had probably known this, to still their minds insisted that they * were in their right course and knowen straits.' It was, as is now believed, Hudson's Straits — an opening, as he saw, in the right direction. And it is reported that he afterwards said, that ' if it had not been for the charge and care he had of the freighted ships, he both could and would have gone through to the South Sea, called Mar del Sur, and dissolved the long doubt of the passage which we seek to find to the rich country of Cathaia' — a large way of talking, which did very well for a time, when men were running mad after the honour and glory of westward adventure, but which would hardly increase our confidence in a naval commander in these more cautious times. To found this colony, however, was now the first object, and many attempts to land were made ; but neither could they succeed in this nor in establishing friendly relations with the natives; so at length Frobisher proposed that they should give up that HIS ENTEj "'RISE ABANDONED. 29 in thick mists separated one random, amidst g and crushing Dg where they re moving. ke clearer, and d between the strait was one but Frobisher, bly known this, J ' were in their m's Straits — an ection. And it lat ' if it had not of the freighted e gone through r, and dissolved we seek to find a large way of time, when men ir and glory of I hardly increase r in these more ras now the first were made ; but r in establishing ; so at length Id give up that design and attempt some discovery : but the com- manders of the other vessels objected ; and, as the provisions were running short in consequence of their losses and disasters, it was eventually concluded to abandon the enterprise and return home. This was an inglorious ending to an expedition prepared at such great cost, and sent out with such high expectations, aad one which caused much disappoint- ment in the country. Frobisher, however, does not seen to have relinquished his scheme; and although for a time he fell into neglect, we read that a fourth expedition was proposed by him, and that it was approved by the great Sir Francis Drake : but it does not appear ever to have been carried out. Other ezciting events, or plans, no doubt turned the current of public attention ; yet still men lived under the impression that a golden land existed in the northern parts of the New World, if only its treasures could be obtained. Nor was it until some time afterwards that the supposed golden ore was found to be only a micaceous sand; and so the dazzling vision was altogether dissipated. But as the thirst for gold, and the sordid desire for amassing wealth, had not been the motives which originated the first enterprise of Frobisher, so neither did the spirit of adventure and the romantic desire for fame which he had helped to nourish in his countrymen, die out with his failure. Englishmen are not easily daunted in any undertaking on which they have set their minds : and a happy thing it no I'i i;!v'. < M 1 30 SIR HUMPHREY GILBERT. doubt was for our country that no such treasures fell to her lot, as had both sharpened and debased the Spanish and Portuguese appetites. Trained, for the most part, in that spirit of intolerance which was even at that very time causing rivers oif blood to flow, both in the Spanish Peninsula and in the Netherlands, as well as in the pomp and luxury of a proud and prosperous country, the sons of Spain and Portugal went out with two unworthy aims — to amass wealth, and to force men to become Christians, either by fair means or by foul. No wonder, then, that the story of Spanish colonisation is a dark one. But our English adventurers of the same times were men of a different stamp. Without holding any very strict notions of the meaning of the words mine and thine, or being actuated by any very unselfish motives in these visions of discovery, they were yet, for the most part, gallant English gentlemen, who, abhorring Spanish cruelty and tyranny, were burning with the desire for fame, and full of patriotic notions about adding to the country's glory. There were many such in Elizabeth's reign, and "lore especially among the Devonshire gentry. We could not find % better specimen of the class than that which is furnished by our next adventurer. Sir Humphrey Gilbert, a native of Compton in Devon- shire, and half-brother to Sir Walter Raleigh. Full of talent, as well as of romance, his writings on the subject of north-west discovery axe said to , -.'l^?5llBW5*^^Stfs»-' ■ P. such treasures Bd and debased that spirit of ry time causing anish Peninsula 1 the pomp and untry, the sons 1 two unworthy I men to become r by foul. No dsh colonisation the same times t notions of the thine, or being jotives in these t, for the most who, abhorring )urning with the ic notions about jeth's reign, and ire gentry. We >f the class than ; adventurer, Sir ipton in Devon- r Raleigh, mce, his writingis very axe said to HIS UNFORTUNATE VOYAGE. 31 have exercised great influence on the mind of Frobisher ; and it is stated that he first formed the plan of British colonisation iii .America. His brothers Adrian and Sir Waltei Raleigh also deeply sym- pathised in his views— the former being, indeed, the head of a company called • The Colleagues of the Fellowship for the discovery of the North-west Passage,' and the latter accompanying him on one of his voyages. Sir Humphrey Gilbert obtained from Queen Elizabeth the gift for ever of all the heathen and barbarous countries which he might discover, with absolute authority therein, on the condition of doing homage to the sovereign — who assumed this power of disposing of other people's property — and of paying a fifth of the revenues to the crown. And thinking, no doubt, that he was going to do the benighted natives a great kindness by thus taking possession of their fatherland, Sir Humphrey set sa.: 'h four vessels, the ' Swallow,' the * Delight,' his own ship the ' Jolden Hind,' and the 'Squirrel.' But twice had he to turn back on account of bad weather and the faint-heartedness of his crew ; and as soon as they reached Newfoundland the * Swallow ' had to be sent home, with some of the crew who had fallen sick, while the « Delight,' a fine large vessel, struck on a rock and went to pieces. So Sir Humphrey was left with the two smaller vessels, and on board the 'Sqmrrel' he hoisted his flag. After taking a formal possession of Newfound- land, and parcelling out the land (although, as we mmmmmmi^ >i HUMPHREY GILBERT. know, he was by no means its discoverer), he started on a voyage to the south, where, he hoped to find silver and gold. However, having had great lodses, the crew soon saw that the choice lay between starva- tion and return ; so that poor Sir Humphrey, whose own courage was equal to any emergency, was obliged to yield nnd abandon the enterprise. Leaving these coasts, on which the French and Spaniards had long had extensive cod-fisheries, they turned their helms homeward in bitter di8api)oint- ment. But very soon they were once more overtaken by a violent storm ; and the little • Squirrel' was no- ticed by its companion to be labouring fearfully amidst the waves ; while its gallant commander stood on the deck with a book iu his hfud, and cried to the other vessel as she passed that 'they were as near to heaven by sea as by land.' Dtrkness soon came on, and nothing more waa seen for hours of the tiny bark but one little li^ht, which rose and fell with the waves. About midnight that disappeared ; and the crippled 'Golden Hind' had to return alone with its dismal tale. And yet, only two years later, John Davis of Landridge, another Devonshire man, was found wil- ling, at the bidding of ' divers worshipful merchants of London and the West country,' to take the command of two vessclo — the 'Sunshine' and the * Moonshine' — and with them to sail again in search of the passage to Cathay. The ships left Dartmouth in June, 1585 ; and in six weeks after found themselves among the ice of %' Mwwimifflw^ T. erer), he started e hoped to find had great lodsee, ■ between starva- !umphrey, whose jncy, was obliged the French and (d-fisheries, they itter disappoint- 5 more overtaken Squirrel' was no- louring fearfully iommander stood nd, and cried to t *they were as D&rkness soon I for hours of the ch rose and fell iiat disappeared; d to return alone ', John Davis of 1, was found wil- tiipful merchants y,' to take the inshine' and the ) sail again in ne, 1585 ; and in iD^ong the ice of JOHN DAVIS. Greenland, and enveloped in a dense fog. At first, therefore, they could not understand what it was that caused such a mighty roaring as that which met their ears, but soon ascertained that it was tlie grinding together of the huge masses of ice. They came in view of the land next day, which Davis called the most ' dreary that it is possible to con- ceive ;' adding, that * the lothsome view of the shore, and the irksome noyse of the yce, was such, that it bred strange conceits' among them : ' so that they eirpposed the place to be wast, and void of any sen- sible or vegitalole creatures ; whereupon he called the same " Desolation." ' However, after a little time they sailed westward, and soon got out of the ice, and among ' many greene and pleasant isles, bordering on the shore,' where they got into a very friendly intercourse with the natives, and began to barter for furs. But a favourable wind soon caused him to abandon this, and sail north-west across the strait which still bears his name. In great spirits they rounded a cape, which he called ' the Cape of God's Mercy ;' thinking that he had actually found the passage which he sought ; and sailed on in water, which was of * the very colour, natuje, and quality of the main ocean,' for about eighty leagues, without meeting with any ice, until they came to a cluster of islands. Then, strange to say, when again fogs and storms came on, they quietly abandoned the enterprise ; and thinking to prosecute it at some future day, they re- turned homewards very cheerily. m till -ill 84 JOHN DAVIS. Twice again Davis sailed from Dartmouth, in 1586 and 1587, and each time he visited the same coasts, discovered something more, and got a little further northward— further, indeed, than any pre- vious navigator had been ; but the remonstrances of his crew and the constant fear of the ice prevented him from remaining out long at a ime. Men thought not then of waiting in these north- ern regions year after year until they had accom- plished their purpose; but before we charge them with faintheartedness, we must remember that each one made the matter easier for him who came after, and that the arts of preserving food to keep for years, and of protecting vessels from those shocks of the icebergs, which might crush them at any moment, — were then unknown. The naval spirit of England was growing then ; and it has progressed even to the present times. However, Davis had been three times out with- out accomplishing his task; and, like his prede- cessors, he had thereby lost credit. The talk of invasion by the Spanish Armada also stopped the design for a few years; but in 1602, the last year of our great Queen's reign, George Waymouth was sent out by a merchant company, and bound not to return under one year. Nothing particular was, however, added to the previous knowledge by his voyage, except that, as Fox, one of his successors, of whom we shall soon have to speak, says, ' He and Davis, probably, lighted Hudson into hie Straits.' Waymouth's crew mutinied, and turned the helm w«w «i B WTi MM i ii»Mi ii iraw i tmi» t ii»*it* « w a ih^ '•^!^M^k ^ ^^ii^^^iii^i^MM 1 40 HENRY HUDSON. stockings used as tobacco-pouches : at which they laughed exceedingly, and the good-humoured people joined in the merriment. Still taking Hudson for the Mannitto, and his companions for inferior deities, they treated them with all honour, and readily granted what they asked, namely, as much land as could be compassed by a bullock's hide, though they were rather astonished when they found the bullock's hide cut into strips and made into '. thin rope, so that a good-sized niece of ground was 'O compassed by it. The whites remained some time, and in like manner obtained so many grants that the Indians thought they would get the whole land ; as, in fact, they eventually did. Hv ison returned home again ; and in 1610 he took his fatal voyage from the Thames. Two gentlemen, who were quits persuaded of the existence of a north-west passage, fitted out the • Discovery,' and entrusted the command to him. It was then that he found the strait which bears his name ; and in spite of icy barriers, and murmurings among his crew, he persisted in pushing on towards the west, until he saw that great bay before him which he concluded must be the Pacific Ocean. But winter was coming on ; and it was absolutely necessary to look for some milder spot in which to spend it. It is not known exactly where they settled down ; but in a few days <'hey were all frozen in, with little prospect before tl'.em but that of starvation. Hudson, however, offered a reward to whosoever ■ 1i>i'imMlislii^ii^MitM£>m^ri!utfti&^ ■ "J ►Aj'.'^-iififesifS .; l*«pK^Vf-S;**n(«fev **l,i ■ ■ iches : at which they ood-humoured people le Mannitto, and his 8, they treated them ' granted what they could be compassed by rere rather astonished i hide cut into strips hat a good-sized niece it. le time, and in like mts that the Indians liole land ; as, in fact, i;ain; and in 1610 he Thames. •e quito persuaded of lassage, fitted out the command to him. It strait which bears his riers, and murmurings in pushing on towards great bay before him he Pacific Ocean. ; and it was absolutely ilder spot in which to ictly where they settled were all frozen in, with ; that of starvation. a reward to whosoever ABANDONED BY HIS CEEW. m should find any living thing ; and, happily, at first ^ they killed a great many white partridges. When these were gone their sufferings became terrible, and they only just held out until the ice again broke and let them out. And all this time a horrid plot had been brew- ing among them, instigated by a young man named Green, whom Hudson had brought with him from England, in the hope of rescuing him from the bad courses into which he had fallen. Hudson had on oce occasion spoken sharply to this young man, for which he had vowed a deadly v-ngeance. Others, unfortunately, were ready to jom him, and the mutiny broke out just as they were making preparations for their return. As be was leaving his cabin one morning Hudson waa seized from behind by some of the wretches, and forced, with eight sick men, on board a small boat, with provisions only for two days ; and thus was he, who had allowed himself to be regarded as the Supreme Being, left to perish miserably. Green meantime vowed never to land in England until he had received a promise of pardon ; but he never reached England, for on their arrival at Cape Digges he and some of the most guilty of his com- panions went ashore, and in a quarrel with the natives got killed. The rest of the mutineers, after suffering dread- ful privations, reached the coast of Ireland in safety ; and, strange to say, not only did they escape punish- ment, but two of them, Bylot and Prickett, were y' * itil ii.,.«ii»imwiM->iMT-ffi'iiiT-rtr\M^ry'ri,'g Jill 42 SIR THOMAS BUTTON. employed in the next expedition under Sir Tliomas Button. Both, however, declared that they had acted under compulsion ; and as it was difficult then to fad men used to these northern latitudes, and Bylot was an excellent pilot, perhaps Sir Thomas Button was glad to make use of him. The latter was a man of learning and ability ; but he, too, was thwarted by the murmurs of his crew, and did not accomplish much. Sailing direct to Digges' Island, in Hudson's Straits, he encamped for the winter at the mouth of a river, which he named Port Nelson, and exerted himself to divert the minds of his men from their hardships by proposing to them questions in navigation and geography. In April, when the ice broke up, they proceeded northwards as far as Cape Comfort, then back to Mansell's Islands and home again, where he declared that he believed the passage to exist, though he had failed in finding it. Nothing daunted by this, and one or two other similar discouragements, the Merchants' Com- pany again fitted out the 'Discovery' for a new Arctic voyage; and here we are introduced to another of those great names which serve as land- marks in our course— r< hat of William Baffin, the discoverer of one of the finest bays in the world. In 1612 he had made a voyage with Hall, one of the men who had been employed in the Danish expedition; and that voyage is remarkable as the first on record in which, by an observation of the heavenly bodies, a method was adopted for taking der Sir Thomas that they had as difficult then I latitudes, and vpB Sir Thomas i m. ng and ability; murmurs of his nuch. Sailing m's Straits, he auth of a river, certed himself to eir hardships by navigation and J broke up, they )e Comfort, then oe again, where tassage to exist, • id one or two Merchants' Com- rery' for a new I introduced to h serve as land- liam Baffin, the n the world, fe with Hall, one 1 in the Danish markable as the )8ervation of the opted for taking WILLIAM BAFFIN. 43 the longitude at sea. Baffin had also made a voyage to Greenland previous to his employment by the Company. It was in 1615 that the command of the ' Dis- covery' was given to Bylot, and Baffin appointed as his mate. Being far the better educated of the two, he seems to have really directed the course of the expedition; and some of his lunar observations on this occasion were made with so much accuracy that, two centuries later, they called forth the praise of Captain Parry, who always held Baffin in great respect. No very particular discovery is recorded as the result of this voyage, though it added perhaps a good deal to the general knowledge of those parts. But next year the same ship and officers were again sent out, and with such confident anticipation of success that they were ordered to bring back a Japanese on their return 1 They sailed direct for Davis's Strait, up which they continued in a northerly direction until they came to Cape Dudley Digges, Whale Sound, and Cary's Isles, in the very north of what has since been called Baffin's Bay, but which tbey supposed, and as it now proves truly, to be open sea. Under that idea they were constantly trying to make their way westward, though fruitlessly on account of the ice. In July, however, this began to melt very fast, and they continued coasting along to the north till they came to an island to which they gave the name of Hackluyt, after Sir Richard Hackluyt, the first iii: ' * i!|i!; ■;■■ ill ■i^^**^K=*f*^^ife!'^*S^.'S#^*s^ HHfinwaiMii 44 WILLUM BAFFIN. i compiler of a volume of voyages ; then on to Smith's Sound, at the ex,/ieme north of the bay ; and next round by the western side to Jones' Sound, to both of which they gave the names. At length they began to suspect that they were in a great bay, and not in the open sea at all, and their hope of a passage became daily less and less. But in their southward course they passed another great inlet, Sir James Lancaster's Sound, little thinking that it led into an optjn strait, for it was barred up by ice ; nor was it until Parry's time that this barrier was passed, and the passage to the open ocean this \say discovered. Coasting along as close to the shore aa they could, they now pursued their way flown the western side, until, arrived once again in Davis's Strait, they came to Cumberland's Island, where a consultation was held, in which it was decided * that, having come to an end of their dis- covery,' they should cross ' to the coast of Greenland, to see if they could get some refreshment for their mer,' Accordingly they anchored in Cockin Sound, so named by that Hall who had accompanied the Danish Admiral Lindenau, and thence, on the 1st of August, they steered their way home. Little more is known of the after-life of Baffin, except that he joined in the British attempt to expel the Portuguese from the Persian Gulf, and that at the siege of a small fort near Ormuz he was killed. In a letter to one of the gentlemen who sent him 4-jmmmm len on to Smith's e bay ; and .next j' Sound, to both ct that they were in sea at all, and ally less and less, jy passed another r's Sound, little strait, for it was Parry's time that .ssage to the open Qg along as close )W pursued their rrived once again iberknd's Island, in which it was end of their dis- ast of Greenland, eshment for their Cockin Sound, so tanied the Danish bhe 1st of August, ,fter-life of Baffin, ritish attempt to 'ersian Gulf, and sar Ormuz he was men who sent him JENS MUNK. 45 out, Baffin speaks of the ' worst being now knt)wn concerning the passage,' and declares that ' there is no passage or hope of a passage in the north of Davis's Strait ;' but he dwells on the advantages of the discoveries which had been made thereabouts, and of the vast numbers of whales to be caught in those seas. One effect of this expedition of Baffin's was natu- rally to damp the public expectation of this grand discovery ; and it was fifteen years before any other attempt of importance was made by Englishmen. But tLe establishment of the Greenland Whale Fishery, and the formation of the Hudson's Bay Company, were two very substantial results for the commercial world ; and these soon began to occupy the attention of the country. Meantime, Denmark again began to take an interest in the subject; and in 1619 Christian IV. fitted out two ships, of which he gave the <;ommand to Jens Munk, a very experienced seaman ; but it proved one of tho most melancholy voyages on record. They sailed first to Davis's Straits, but were prevented by the ice from proceeding northward, and therefore turned and passed int« Hudson's Straits, Munk changing the names which had been given by former voyagers as he went along, though he has not succeeded in getting other people to adopt hio alterations. They took up their winter quarters in Chesterfield's Inlet, which is in the north-west of Hudson's Bay, built themselves good WWIitlliiWlWflii'iwimBfewi ««M ■V 46 JENS MT-VK. huts, anfl found plenty of game ; so that they had a good prospect of being very comfortable until spring returned, and they were able to resume their voyage. But the men were superstitious, and not being aware of the extraordinary phenomena which they might expect to witness in those northern seas, were greatly alarmed when in November they saw three distinct suns, and in December an eclipse of the moon, which seemed to be surrounded by a trans- parent circle, with a cross in the centre dividing the moon into quarters. These things appeared to them as bad omens of their future fate ; and they became utterly depressed. Then the frost set in with such severity that their beer and spirit-casks burst ; the scurvy appeared among them, and they became so weak as to be unable to kill the game which abounded around them; and famine stared them in the face. Munk remained in his hut four days without food, and when at length he got courage to crawl out, he found that of a ere*' of sixty-four he and two companions were the sole survivors. In despair the three set to work to dig into the hard snow, aud then discovered some plants which proved valuable remedies for their sickness ; so they soon recovered, and were able to fish and shoot, until they grew strong enough to repair their smaller vessel, in which these thre^ men embarked, and reached their native land in September, 1620. Eleven years after this Captain Luke Fox, or * North-west Fox,' as the clever but concell^d York- CAPTAIN LUKE FOX. that they had a tble until spring ne their voyage. Qot being aware lich they might em seas, were they saw three eclipse of the led by a trans- tre dividing the js appeared to fate; and they he frost set in md spirit-casks them, and they kill the game : famine stared in his hut four length he got t of a cre»-^ of were the sole to dig into the le plants which okness ; so they 9sh and shoot, lir their smaller embarked, and sr, 1620. Luke Fox, or ionceli^d York- shireman chose to call himself, revived the subject in England, and obtained the loan of a vessel for the purpose of Arctic discovery from King Charles I. Baffin's report had convinced him that the pas- sage must be sought through Hudson's, and not through Davis's Straits; so, with a crew carefully selected, although, as he regretted, without one man who knew those seas, he sailed in that direction. Passing several small islands, he came into Hud- son's Bay ; and coasting along the north of it, under Southampton Isles, he reached a strait on the west, in which was an island of which he boasted that he waa the discoverer, and named it Sir Thomas Rowe's "Welcome, now the name of the strait in which it lies, and through which he declared that he believed the passage would eventually be found. However, he did not pursue this passage, but turned again towards the south, until at length he passed out of the bay again, and into the Channel which bears his name, as far as 66° north, until he came to a point of land which he called • Foxe his farthest.' Then the season being rather advanced, he made the best of his way home, where he boasted considerably of his discoveries, though they really amounted to very little. While in Hudson's Bay he had met with a rival explorer, who had been sent out by the Bristol merchants on the very day that he himself had sailed. The two commanderd had entertained each other on board their respective vessels. Fox pro- nounced this Captain Thomas James to be ' a prac- T" 48 CAPTAIN THOMAS JAMES. titioner in the matheraaticks,' but said that he found him to be no seaman. He certainly does not seem to have been quite the man for such a charge-, as we may judge from his declining to take any seamen who had before ' us'd the northerly icy seas,' in order that there might be .00 disputing of his authority. It would be a long story to tell of all the troubles which the crew of the 'Maria' encountered. They began early, and continued throughout the voyage. Even off Cape Farewell the men were engaged night and day in warding off the blows of the ice ; but at length Resolution Island came in sight, and with much difficulty they made their way into Hudson's Strait, and so down into the bay. James's aim was to reach the bottom of the bay, and so find, if possible, a passage into 'the river of Canada;' or, 'failing that, to winter on the main.' His journal is full of most dismal relations of sufferings, first from cold and then from her * ; from plagues of msects and from scurvy : yet w. en, by the advice of his officers, he at length bore up the helm for England, he says that 'it was with a sorrowful heart that he did so.' His name has been immortalised in James's Bay, as that of Fox has been in the channel to the north of it. Hudson's Bay was, in fact, growing to be the centre towards which the attention of all those whbse eyes were directed to the New World was becoming attracted. 8 id that he found r does not seem ch a charge'; as take any seamen 5y seas,' in order )f hia authority. ' all the troubles untered. They out the voyage, e engaged night ■ the ice ; but at sight, and with y into Hudson's oj^s's aim was to ^nd, if possible, ia;' or, 'failing nal relations of "rom her * ; from ' : yet w. en, by igth bore up the 'it was with a i in James's Bay, nel to the north rowing to be the f all those whbse Id was becoming 49 CHAPTER III. EXPEDITIONS IN THE EIOHTEENTH CENTURY. For some time past the French had been settling in considerable numbers in Canada ; and now an enter- prising man amongst these settlers, named Monsieur Grosseliez, seeing the advantages which would result from the formation of settlements along the coast, represented the matter to his government. But the unfavourable report concerning the cli- mate which the last traveller, Captain Thomas James, had given, entirely discouraged them from taking it up, and thus FrMice missed the opportunity. The English Minister at Paris, however, saw the proposition in another light, and sent Grosseliez over to Prince Rupert in England, who warmly entered into his scheme ; and the result was the formation of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the grant to it oi all that vast territory known as Prince Rupert's Land, under a charter, in which was included an express stipulation binding them to follow up the discoveries which had been already made. Having once, however, obtained the monopoly, the subject of discovery and of the long-sought pas- E 50 EXPEDITIONS IN THK KIOIITEENTII ('KNTURY. Hage was for Home time entirely forgotten. In fact, when in the beginning of the IStli century Mr. Knight, the governor of the factory on Nebob'H River, httviug learned from the natives that ut some distance to the nortli of Hudson's Bay there was to be found a rich mine of copper, asked for ships that he might discover the truth of he report, Ids appli- cntiou was entirely refused, until he threatened to call on the Government to enforce the terms of the charter. Unfortunately for him, he then gained his point, ana nailed with two shipe which never returned. Nor was it until 1769 that any tidings of the fate of the expedition were gaiii8 appli- ! threatened to e terms of thf ained his point, returned. Nor thti fate of the sequence of the ne, the governor uiuel Heame to he hoard from lars : — laid, • when the rble Island, in larger one wa? jred about fifty ; ild their house. ways at work on rs that the ships Esquimaux paid ■ numbers much they found but was reduced to )plied them with ley were in such knioht's expedition. 51 diHtresH that they ate the blubber and seals' flesli raw, after whirh they all l)ecame ill : in a few days three had died, and the survivors seemed to have scarcely strength to bury them. * These two,' they said, « used ofl;en to go to the top of a rock and look o t earnestly, as if for a vessel coming to their relief. Then they would sit down close together, and weep bitterly. At last one died. An Eiqulmuux Dog, and the other, in trying to dig him a grave, fell down and died, too.' Heame was sent out three times in search of the • Neethaaan-saw-Dazey,' or Far-off Metal River, ac- companied by Indian guides; and he penetrated for hundreds of miles into the interior. But, though 52 EXPEDITIONH IN THE EKJHTEENTH CENTURY. he added much to the geographical knowledge of the country, he never discovered more than one small piece of the copper ore. On the third journey he reached the very river which wuH said to hold such treasureB ; and near iti mouth he hiui the horror of witnessing an attack made by the Indians on some Esquimaux tents, pitched in the neighbourhood, and of seeing a young girl, who clung tt) him for protection, transfixed by the spears of two savages; who only laughed at }'. entreaties that she might be spared, and asked him if he wanted an Esquimaux wife ? This spot he named in conse- quence the Bloody Falls, Then, continuing his course up this Coppermine River, he soon came in sight of the Frozen Ocean, the very existence of which was then still doubtful. Hearne was, therefore, the first European to witness it; and his journey opened the way for future discoveries. Thus we have brought our sketch to the reign of George III., and must hasten briefly to notice the various other efforts of the last century. The Hon. Daines Barrington was one of the chief supporters of such movements ; and having in- duced the Royal Society to take the matter up, a plan for attempting the passage across the Pole was laid before the king; and the * Racehorse' and ' Car- cass' sent out, under the command of Captain Phipps and Captain Lutwidge ; with the latter of whom went as coxswain no less a person than Horatio Nelson himself, then a mere boy. They did not, however, reach a higher latitude t:,,,. CENTURY. owledge of the l)un one small the very river s ; and near its an attack made sntfi, pitched in oung girl, who i by the Bpears i M eutreatiea im if he wanted lamed in conse- luing his courHe ime in eight of e of which was jrefore, the first •ney opened the I to the reign of y to notice the tury. vas one of the and having in- le matter up, a )88 the Pole was lorse' and ' Car- Captain PhippB gr of whom weut Horatio Nelson I higher latitude CAPTAm COOK, f •• than 81® north, and came Imck with the convic- tion that to proceed Ijeyond tliat wuh utterly imp(tH- sihle. DiHappointmont having attended every attempt to reach the Pacific by the Atlantic, it was next propoHed to reverse the plan ; and the groat Cuptain Cook wiiM Bent on thiH, his last voyage, round the Cape of Good Hope, ard directed to work iiis way up the western shore of America, and through Behring's Htraits, across the ocean a* the north of the Continent, in case such an ocean wiw fonud to exist : for we must remember that, as yet, it was uncertain whether in some parts the land did not reach to the very Pole itself. Captain Cook sailed to a point which he named Icy Cape ; and finding the ice beyond impregnable, he returned to winter at the Sandwich Isles, intending to make anotiier attempt in the next summer : but in a quarrel with the natives, aa is so well known, he was slain. It was a long time before any vessel passed Icy Cape, although several navigators made attempts to pass this way ; Vancouver leaving his name on an island discovered by him, and Kotzebue in the sound just north of Behring's Straits : while Captain Meares, who made several voyages in the employ of some merchants of Bengal, has given us a most curious and interesting account of the natives of the country round Nootka Sound and Prince William's Sound. He tells us that they live in immense dwellings, supported on the trunks of trees and large carved 54 EXPEDITIONS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. images ; that they are gentle and courteous in their bearing, and are yet no fond of human flesh that men's heads and limbs are sold in the markets ; tliat they are fond of water-processions, and of hunting the whale ; and that many of them sing beautifully ; whilst their extraordinary fondness for metals — especially for copper — enabled him to carry on with them a very profitable barter for furs. This was the chief object of his voyage ; and on one occasion he obtained a large quantity of the skins of the sea-otter in exchange for two copper- kettles. So profitable, indeed, was this kind of trade found to be, that a great jealousy of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany had long sprung up in the minds of many, not fortunate enough to have a share in it, and in con- sequence an opposition, called the North-west Com- pany, was started ; and so violent a struggle between the two companies ensued, that, as has been very fairly remarked, *the Indian must have smiled to hear the white man call him Savage.' However, in connexion with this new company we find one of our greatest North American travellers. Heame had declared that he had seen that ocean of which the very existence was as yet a question ; but though recently entirely verified, his report was at that time received with much distrust. In 1789 Mackenzie followed in his wake, or, rather, he resolved to cross the whole continent from Fort Chipewyan to the extreme west; and accom- panied by a party of Canadians, he in a few days SNTH CENTURY. 1 courteous in their if human flesh that 1 the markets ; that ns, and of hunting xn sing beautifully ; Iness for metals — . Lim to carry on rter for furs. This •yage ; and on one 3 quantity of the ige for two copper- I kind of trade found Hudson's Bay Com- minds of many, not e in it, and in con- he North-west flom- t a struggle between t, as has been very LUst have smiled to AVAQE.' I this new company American travellers. d seen that ocean of yet a question ; but i, his report was at strust. id in his wake, or, vhole continent from B west; and accom- 3, he in a few days SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 66 reached Slave Lake, arid embarked on the river which now bears his name, down which he persisted in continuing his course, in spite of the opposition of the Indians, who tried by all sorts of horrid stories about monsters inhabiting its banks to turn him from his purpose. He at length reached the mouth of this river ; and, finding there an island which was surrounded by manv whales, he called it 'Whale Island.' Then, ascending the highest ground which he could find, he saw both east and west, as far as the eye could reach, nothing but ice ; and thus, therefore, Mac- kenzie also no doubt saw that same ocean which Hearne had discovered, and which the Indians call ' The Great Stinking Lake.' He afterwards started on another journey from Athabaska Lake, ascending Peace Liver until he came to the Kocky Mountains, up which they had to cut a passage through the snow and haul their canoe, until they fell in with another little river, down which they were able to float it. And here their course led them through many settlements of beavers, which, in order to make their dwellings, had felled whole acres of trees. Their course would have been stopped here — for the Indian guide, tired of the dangers of the way, pretended to know of no river westward — had not Mackenzie overheard a man with whom the guide was talking speak of a large river Sowing towards the midday sun, and insisted on resumi^ir ihe journey. So at length they arrived at the Gulf of Georgia, and Mackenzie wrote his 56 EXPEDITIONS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. name on the rock, and inscribed under it the date, ' July 22nd, 1793.' It was where Mackenzie's journey ended that Captain Vancouver, who had been a midshipman under Cook, began his examination among the archipelago of isles in the neighbourhood of thic gulf, to ascertain whether somewhere in the midst of them the passage did not exist. Thus have we slightly narrated the various at- tempts made to the north and to the west, noticing a few to the eastward as we went along ; but before proceeding to relate at greater length those suc- cessive and persevering expeditions in search of the North-west Passage made in this century, which have at last been crowned with success, we must notice two other remarkable attempts in a north-easterly direction, which have been purposely left until last, namely, those of Barentsz the Dutchman, and of Bebring the Dane. It was just after that fearful struggle for political and religious liberty, in which the brave Hollanders were so long engaged, that the merchants of the United Provinces requested permission of the States General to send an expedition round the north of Europe and Asia, in order to ascertain if a passage to the Indies existed in that direction. They ea- gerly took up the scheme, and fitted out three ships and a small bark for the enterprise, giving the command to a clever seaman named William Barentsz. At Kola, in Lapland, the little squadron sepa- CENTURY. er it the date, 3y ended that a midshiptnaa n among the irhood of thk in the midst of ;he various at- west, noticing ng ; but before [th those suc- 1 search of the iry, which have ire must notice north-easterly left until last, ihman, and of gle for political ave Hollanders rchants of the n of the States 1 the north of ain if a passage ion. They ea- out three ships ise, giving the amed William squadron sepa- !!'t|P",-'! BARENTSZ. 57 rated ; and Barentsz soon reached the extreme north of Nova Zembla, to which he gave the same name as that afterwards conferred by Cook on one of the north-west points of America, Icy Cape ; but he could advance no further. The other vessels reached Waigatz Island during the brilliant Arctic summer, and found it gay with flowers of every colour. Leaving it, they sailed on till they came to the sea of Kara, which, from its blue colour and the sudden bend of the coast, they took for the open sea, and imagined it to be that which washed the shores of the Indies. Under that impression they, with Barentsz, whom they had rejoined, returned home in September, and found the States so well satisfied that seven ships were soon laden with merchandize, and Barentsz again placed in command. A storm, howe'-er, arose, which compelled them to diverge from their original course ; and this expedition proving a failure, the govern- ment declined further assistance, though they oflfered a reward to any successful explorer. Barentsz was, nevertheless, soon once more em- ployed by some private adventurers, in conjunction with Rijp ; and on this voyage they discovered not only Bear Island, but the larger one of Spitzbergen, so named from its sharp-pointed mountains. At this point the two commanders differed as to their course, and at length separated ; Rijp after a while being unsuccessful returned home, while Barentsz passed on to the north of Nova Zembla, and there became involved in fogs and such masses of floating i!:r.r I \ 58 EXPEDITIONS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. ice that the ship was sometimes completely litted out of the water, almost in a perpendicular position ; and on this dreary coast, finding it impossible to extricate the vessels, these seventeen poor creatures were com- pelled to winter. There seems, notwithstanding, to have been neither mutiny nor murmuring among them. Bravely and cheerfully they built a hut, aad made themselves as comfortable as they could. This was in October ; and every day it became colder, until the beer froze and burst the casks, and even the fire seemed to have lost all power of con- veying heat, for clothes hung by it to dry would freeze on the side furthest oflF; and stockings would smell uf burning before the feet felt any warmth. The sun disappeared on the 4th of November, and did not again show himself until the 24th January ; and the cold continued unabated until April. Yet, even amidst their suflferings, the brave old Dutchmen intreated to be allowed to keep the ' Feast of the Kings' on the 6th of January; and no sooner did the temperature became milder than they began to form plans of escape. What stock of food they possessed in the mean- time we are not told ; but by the moonlight, even in the depth of winter, they occupied themselves in the cnpture of the little Arctic fox, which proved to be vety pleasant food. As long as the sun remained above the horizon the great white Polar bear had frequently alarmed them by his visits ; but he disappeared, much to their relief, when the long nights set in. EI CENTURY. )letely litted out iT position ; and jible to extricate ttures were com- withetanding, to rmuring among built a hut, aad hey could. y day it became it the casks, and 11 power of con- it to dry would stockings would sit any warmth. F November, and e 24th January ; til April. j8, the brave old keep the ' Feast ; and no sooner than they began ed in the mean- moonlight, even id themselves in which proved to bove the horizon iquently alarmed }d, much to their BEHRINQ. 69 It was not till June that they were able to leave their dreary prison, and commit themselves to the ocean in the two boats ; the ship being immovably fixed on the shore. But before they lost sight of that terrible coast their bravft and t orthy com- mander had expired. He had T)een failing for some time ; but on the morning of his death he had desired to be lifted up in the boat, and, to the great grief of the crew, he breathed his last while apparently taking a farewell gaze of the island where they had for 80 long been imprisoned. Twelve of the seventeen reached Holland in safety ; having first fallen in with some Russian vessels, and afterwards met with Rijp himself, who was out i^n on a trading voyage. A century and a quarter after this Peter the Great determined to ascertain, if possible, whether or no any connexion between Asia and America existed ; and though he did not live to carry out his plan, yet on his death-bed he drew up a scheme, which the Empress Catherine carefully carried out tvfter his de- cease, giving the command to Captain Vitus Behring, an officer in the Russian army. He and his company journeyed by land to 0/' ''r' from whence they sailed from the river of irimpt« u +.ka on their voyage. .' .nsuccessfiil, as was also another made the nc* - ; yet, in 1741, Behring again sailed with two vesb the 'St. Peter' and 'St. Paul,' which in a storm soon became separated, and never met again. Tschirikow, the captain of the one vessel, soon 60 EXPEDITIONS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. <:i sighted the American Continent, and sent a boat ashore, properly armed, with instructions to make signals to the ship on landing ; but nothing was ever heard of this boat's crew again. Next day, two canoes coming o*F to the ship in a very threatening manner, Tschirikow could only c; uiao along the lonely coast for some days ; and at length he determined to turn the vessel homewards. Commodore Behring's vessel, however, proceeded, and soon came in sight of the stupendous snowy moun- tains of theNew World; one of which he namedMount St. Elias. Here they landed, and found some trace of human inhabitants. Proceeding on their way round the coast, they soon found the navigation very difficult and dangerous, on account of the many small islets which studded the coast. The scurvy also broke out among them, and Bohring himself was attacked and confined to his bed ; so that Lieutenant Waxel had to take the command. They were next involved in a heavy fog, lasting for days ; and then a tremendous gale sprung up and drove them before it : so that they were in constant fear of shipwreck among the islands. Very few of the crew were fit for duty ; and as they had only brackish water, and the tough flesh of the sea-otter, many died. At length land was seen, which proved to be a small island on the coast of Kamptschatka ; and here they were driven ashore : so, seeing no alternative but to winter there, they began to remove the sick to !! H CENTURY. ind sent a boat notions to make lothing was ever Next day, two very threatening ; along the lonely 16 determined to vever, proceeded, 3U8 snowy mcun- he named Mount found some trace i the coast, they It and dangerous, s which studded )ut among them, and confined to had to take the leavy fog, lasting le sprung up and were in constant i. For duty ; and as he tough flesh of 1 proved to be a ihatka; and here 10 alternative but nove the sick to .■■''Y^''!^'^''''^' DEATH OF BEHBING. 61 the land, and place them in hovels which (hey had prepared. But many died from the exposure to the cold ; and on the 8th of December Behr' ag himself expired. It is, therefore, in a melanoaoly manner that the name of this worthy man is connected with these Straits. Good food and water being now within their reach, the rest of the crew were soon restored to health; and in May they began to build a small vessel, their own being now useless. In this, though a crazy affair, they, on the 14th of July, committed themselves to the ocean; and in a few days saw the coast of Kamptachatka, and landed shortly afterwards in Awatchka Bay, where, having long been given up as lost, they were warmly wel- comed back. 62 rT\rTER IV. SIR J . , .ji ROS ' iRST iXPEDITION. Alexander Mackenzie's land journeys may be said to have been the concluding efforts of the last century in a north-westerly direction. They had thrown some light on the subject, as had every great previous attempt ; and yet still, at the beginning of our present century, all beyond the Arctic Circle was a blank in our maps from Icy Cape to Fox Channel, with the exception of the two isolated points reached by Hearne and Mackenzie, while to the east of the Channel something like the bare outline of Baffin's Bay was all that could be traced. After 80 many apparently fruitless efforts it almost seemed as if the question must be given up, and the problem remain for ever unsolved, when a communication made by Mr. William Scoresby, captain of a whaling-vessel, to Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society, reawakened the hopes of scientific men, and of the nation at large. The name of Scoresby ought indeed to be ever prominently mentioned in connexion with the recent geographical discoveries ; and well qualified would WILLTAM W'ORESnV. 6» )moN. eys may be said its of the last on. They had had every great the beginning of Arctic Circle was to Fox Channel, i points reached the east of the tline of Baffin's litless efforts it ist be given up, unsolved, when illiam Scoresby, Joseph Banks, ikened the hopes it large, ieed to be ever with the recent qualified would its owner have been to take the command of an expedition of discovery. The son of the inventor of 'the round top- gallant crow's nest,' said to have been one of the greatest boons ever given to Arctic navigators, and of one of the most intelligent and successful whaling captains of his time, William Scoresby early distin- guished himself in his profession. In 1806 he, with his father, had reached a higher latitude than had been yet attained, and he was only in his twenty-first year when the elder Scoresby retired from active life and left to him the command of his vessel. It was in ihe year 1817 that he noticed a remark- able change in the condition of the northern ice- fields, about 18,000 square miles of the Greenland seas, between the parallels of 74° and 80°, being perfectly free, and large quantities of ice being at the same time found in some parts of the Atlantic, where it was usually quite unknown ; and he at once conjectured that some great disruption of the vast fields of ice at the North Pole had taken place, and that the opportunity for undertaking further dis- coveries had at length arrived. In the hope of being appointed tx) some such undertaking he seems to have written to Sir Joseph Banks, the President of the Royal Society, on the subject ; for who was so likely to enter into his feelings as the man who had made voyages to Ice- land, Newfouudlaad, and the South Sea . Islands, solely for the purpose of making discoveries in M .i; > 64 SIR JOHN ROSS. M natural 'nistory, and who in 1768 had accompanied Captain Cook on a voyage to the South Seas, simply that he might obscirve the transit of the planet Venus over the disc of the sun ? Sir Joseph immediately memorialised the Government on the subject, and endeavoured to procure for Scoresby a commission to proceed on a voyage of discovery towards the North Pole. The project was taken up, but not the man ; for, in conformity with a rule of the service, the Lords of the Admiralty selected an officer of the Royal Navy to cany out the scheme. And Scoresby, after making several other voyages, and becoming the author of some remarkable works on the Arctic regions and the northern whale fisheries, and having been elected a Fellow of the Royal Societies of London and Edinburgh, eventually took holy orders, and became chaplain of the Mariners' Church at Liverpool. He died in 1857, just four years after the arrival of the despatches from Captain M'Clure announcing the actual accomplishment of that which had been the aim of three centuries. In the late Secretary of the Admiralty every scheme like that of Scoresby's found a warm advocate. Sir John Barrow at once consulted with Sir Joseph Banks, and having in some measure matured their plan, laid it before Lord Melville, the First Lord of the Admiralty ; and the sanction of Government being obtained, orders were soon issued for the preparation of four ships ; two to proceed in search of the passage between the Atlantic g»M iii Ma'»rrfc7&i"SiSitiiyt i ^'!li i W'«\ l> lad accompanied he South .Seas, tranait of the in ? Sir Joseph ernment on the e for Scoreflby a ge of discovery ot the man ; for, ice, the Lords of the Royal Navy Scoresby, after i becoming the I on the Arctic ) fisheries, and 9 Royal Societies ually took holy Vlariners' Church b four years after Captain M'Clure ent of that which Admiralty every found a warm e consulted with 1 some measure J Lord Melville, md the sanction rders were soon ir ships ; two to veen the Atlantic SIR JOHN HAUROW. M and the I'aciHi% and two towards the North PoU-, by way of Spitzbcirgt'n. The three names thus joined in coimcil came at no distunt date to lie thoHe of tiie unknown lands and seas, lint we must not anticipate: only, as Sir John Barrow had ho mucli to do with Mu-se and succeeding expeditions, it may he well to say nome- thiug of tliis (liHtinguisht'd man before we go further. In early life he had himself ' paid a visit to the Spitzbergcn seas, as high as Hakluyt's Headland, near the 80th parallel,' and no sooner did the intelligence reach him of the breaking up of the northern barrier than various learned articles from his pen appeared in the Quarterlies, pressing on the English nation the honour which now lay open to them of completing that work which their own navigators had first begun. He also wrote a 'Chro- nological History of Voyages in the Arctic Regions.' In fact, the great movements of this centtiry in the way of Arctic discovery are generally ascribed to him. The • Isabella ' and the • Alexander,' of respec- tively 385 and 252 tons, were the two ships ap- pointed to make their way into Baffin's Bay, for the purpose of discovering whether or not it were bounded by land, as the charts generally repre- sented it, or whether in any part there were a com- munication with the main ocean. Baffin had, we know, sailed all round, and had declareil that all hope of a passage that way was at an end ; but information which had from time to time reached F i Fi«j ! [ ' : I.' 66 HIR JOHN ROMS. ■1^ the AdiiiirHlty (if H current ruiiniu({ from tlio nortli towards the upper part of DhvIn'm Sti-'iitM hud led thorn to HUHp to go round it I ' And yet it is a noticeable circumstance in the history of tliis remarkable man, that lu) did not enter the naval service of his own accord, nor by his own desire. Tn fact, until within a few days of his first voyage. Parry seems never to have hati any other idea than that of following his father's pro- fession. But a lady friend of Dr. Parry's family, who felt sure that he was formed for an active life, and Imd often advised that he should be sent to sea, at that moment gained her point. Admiral Cornwallis, her near relation, l)eing then in command of the Chaunel fleet, Edward was allowed to make trial of a sea life by one cruise ; and thus his future destiny was fixed. In 1817, having been recalled to England from the Bermudas in consequence of his fatlier's severe illness, he had, after some mouths of inaction, written to a friend on the suliject of further employ- ment ; but before posting his letter, a paragraph in fc 4f i 68 SIR JOHN ROSS. a newspaper, relating to the proposed Polar expedi- tion, attracted his notice ; and, though he had been speaking of African discovery, he seized his pen again and added, that 'hot or cold was all one to him — Africa or the Pole.' This letter was shown by his friend to Sir .Tolm Barrow, who saw at once that he was the right man; and accordingly he was appointed second in command. It was on the 18th of April, 1818, that the ' Isabella ' and ' Alexander ' sailed from Deptford, bearing with them many valuable instruments for the purpose of making observations in astronomy, navigation, magnetism, and other sciences. Theso things were specially intended for the use of Captain Sabine of the Royal Artillery, who, on account of his great scientific attainments, and his skill in the use of such mathematical and astro- nomical instruments, had been particiUarly requested to join the expedition. Another very different, but most valuable person, had also expressed a wish, and had obtained leave to join. This was a young Esquimaux of the name of Sackhouse, who was then on his second visit to Scotland. This youiug man, who belonged to a. tribe which had been under the instruction of the Danish missionaries, had first come over to the British isles in a whaling-ship, having a great desire to make acquaintance with the English, and to acquire the art of drawing. Hie attractive appearance and SACKH0U8E. )pose(i Polar expedi- thougb he had been , he seized his pen cold was all one to is friend to Sir John at he was the right appointed second in pril, 1818, that the tiled from Deptford, able instruments for ations in astronomy, her sciences- intended for the use al Artillery, who, on attainments, and his [lematical and astro- particularly requested most valuable person, d bad obtained leave laux of the name of his second visit to , who belonged to a the instruction of the )me over to the British ag a great desire to nglish, and to acquire active appearance and manners at once gained him friends. He was kindly treated, instructed in English, and sent back to his own country the next year, either to stay there or return as he pleased. On his arrival he found that a sister, his only relation, had died during his absence, and he therefore decided on the latter course. Mr. Nasmyth, the artist, then took him in hand, ar.d iwon after Captain Basil Hall recommended him as interpreter for this first Arctic voyage. We call it the first, because Ross's was the first of this century. We shall soon see how invaluable the Esquimaux proved : he was to have been sent out again with Liauienant Parry, but in the meantime, while on a visit to his friends in Edinburgh, he was seized with an inflammatory complaint and speedily sank. It has long been the fashion to speak of the countrymen of this sociable, intelligent, and kind- hearted young man, as below the standard of ordinary savages, but Sackhouse was the first to prove that an Esquimaux may be a very fine fellow in every sense of the word. His kindness to children had been remarked at Leith, where, meeting two little ones on a snowy day shivering with cold, he took off some of his own clothes, and wrapping them caretuUy round them, brought them safely home. He soon became a favourite on board the ' Isabella,' on account of his self-denying good-nature ; and he is also described as * unaffectedly pious.' He died with an Icelandic Catechism in his hand, thanking his friends for their kindness ; but telling them that 70 SIR JOHN ROSS. it was of no use, for his sister had appeared to him and called him away. The instructions given to Captain Ross at start- ing were very clear and explicit. Before leaving Shetland, where he was to meet the vessels 'Do- rothea' and 'Trent,' which were to attempt the passage by the Pole, he was to fix on a rendezvous in the Pacific. If there, or elsewhere, he should meet with them, he was to take them under his command; and despatches were to be prepared and sent home by every possible opportunity. He was to sail direct to Baffin's Bay, and, if fortunate enough to find a passage, he was then to endeavou; to make his way along the north of America to Beh- ring's Straits, and through them to the rendezvous in the Pacific, returning liomc next year, if possible, by the same way. But if not able to do that, he was to edge down to the north coast of the American Continent, and winter there as comfortably as he could. Particular directions were also given that, should he meet with cither Indians or Esquimaux, he was to cultivate a friendship with them ; and for that purpose he was supplied with all kinds of arti- cles likely to be agreeable to them; so that thus they were to be induced to carry an accoimt of the situation of the crew to any settlements of the Hud- son's Bay or North-west Companies, with an urgent request that it should instantly be transmitted to England. It was also said that, although the first object of the voyage was to discover a passage from Davis's ■^1f»a«'}}';fpi-f. ad appeared to in Ross at start- Before leaving he vessels ' Do- to attempt the on a rendezvous here, he should them under his to be prepared sportunity. He md, if fortunate en to endeavoui America to Beh- > the rendezvous year, if possible, do that, he was of the American >mfortably as he also given that, IS or Esquimaux, h them ; and for dl kinds of arti- im ; so that thus m account of the lent 8 of the Hud- i, with an tirgent >e transmitted to the first object of jage from Davis's li | Mi» -< DEPARTURE OF THE FOUR VESSELS. 71 Strait along the north coast of America; yet, so far as could be done without hindrance to the expe- dition, every facility was.to be given to the oflBcers, and especially to Captain Sabine, for adding to the geographical knowledge of those regions, and for contributing to the advance of science in general : besides which, he was to cause views of bays and headlands to be taken, and charts to be made; in which work Lieutenant Hoppner, a very skilful draughtsman, was to be employed. Great stress was laid on the ships keeping toge- ther. And we must not omit to mention that both vessels were supplied with printed papers, which were to be filled up with date and position each day, enclosed in bottles, and thrown overboard. These papers contained a request in several languages, that the captain of any vessel that picked thepi up would forward them to England as soon as possible. On the 30tli of April the four ships met at Ler- wick, in Shetland, and started on their respective expeditions; nor is it surprising that after such elaborate preparations the highest ..opes prevailed generally as to their success. They soon began their Arctic life ; for when only half way to Grreenland they met with their first ice- berg, which appeared to be about 40 feet high and 1000 long. The magnificence of such an object as it comes riuing through the ocean, and assummg an endless number of fantastic forms, can hardly be conceived. A white lion, some of the sailors called it; others, a horse rampant; and others, 72 SIR JOHN ROSS. the omen of all good luck, namely, the lion and uni- corn on the British arms. Another seen shortly after formec a kind of crystal tunnel. 0' I the Ist of June the vessels had passed Cape Farewell, the most southerly point of Greenland, and were in sight of Coqiiin's Sound, where old Baffin went to refresh his men on his return from his last voyage ; and now they were in the midst of icebergs and floating fields of ice. Let us stop here and try to picture to ourselves their position, and the strange kind of scenery through which they were about to pass. The west coast of Greenland is, like that of Norway, beset with many rocky islands, and cut up by numerous dtep inlets of the sea, of a singular shape, wldch bometimes wind like rivers for 80 or 100 miles into the interior. These are called, like those of Norway, fiords. Danish names also are found in all maps of Greenland, although of late we hive given a fo\i English ones to certain points. For, after Frobi.iier had re-discovered the country, and Davis oAd ex- plored its coi^ts, the Danes and Norwegians agiv^j. visited and colonized it; sc th it we sometimes find it called Danish America. These deep inlets of^gn hav a wO'lly romantic appearance. They are Lemmed .• i^ ^^r^y moun- tain barriers, whose tops are hidden in the clouds, and which generally terminate in glaciers; which are gradually pushed forwards by the plains of ice behind, until they roof in the fiord, or stretch out, like bold headlands, into the sea. Underneath the ft •''«»WK,'i.:'li>»'Sfl.:'V",., le lion and uni- en shortly after ad passed Cape of Oreenland, ind, where old iiis return from in the midst of lire to ourselves scenery through »e west coast of eset with many ous deep inlets L.ich bometimes niles into the ose of Norway, d in ail maps of ve given a foM after Frobi aer Davift had ex- )rwegians agtnj. sometimes find mW.y 7omjtD*ic h\ .-, iv moun- I in the clouds, glaciers; which tie plains of ice or stretch out. Underneath the T^' •'!:•!■:•., i i^-^iti^^i^t^^ffdj A ,-t^.r DANISH MlSSION'a. 75 surge is gradually undermining them ; and tit last they fall with the noise of thurder into the sea, which is thus set boiling for many miles around. ' These falling masses — of which one traveller saw twenty-three descending at once — form the icebergs, which are then either carried away by currents, or stranded on the Arctic coasts ; and as the ice is very transparent, they are often seen glittering in the sun- light in blue, green, and orange tints, which contrast beautifully with the gloomy rocks, or with the white- ness of the vast plains of snow. There are, however, comparatively warm and sheltered spots even in Greenland ; and along the banks of the southern fiords there are meadows, in which stunted beech and \^illow-trees may be seen, and where the service-tree bears fruit. For there it is that Danish colonists and missionaries have formed their settlements ; but the Esquimaux are found up to the very north of Baffin's Bay. We have spoken of the Danish missions more than once ; and though it may interrupt our narrative for a few minutes, yet this will be the most suitable place in which to speak of their origin and history. Little enough did the two Venetian brothers — Acthony and Nicolas Zeno — ever dream that their voyage and shipwreck would be connected with any- thing of the kind ; but so it was. ' God moves in a mysterious way His wonders to perform ; He plants His footsteps in the sea, And rides upon the storm.' 76 SIR JOHN ROSS. Strange and wonderful legend ) are connected with the countries of the Scandinavian race ; and children love such tales. So the Norwegian hoy, Hans Egede, listened and wondered to the legends of his fatherland ; and among them was one which' he could never forget. It was the traditions of the Zenos; and it told how they not only were cost away on the shores of Greenland, but found there whole villages peopled by Christians. True it was that no confirmation was added by seamen and merchants who had visited those shores : yet, for all that, as Hans Egede grew, the tale took stronger and stronger possession of his mind. He entered the ministry, married, had four children, and became parish-priest ofVogen, in the north of Norway ; but still thoughts of Greenland, and its deep need, haunted him day and night. Every one laughed at the scheme ; for missions were then no recognised work of the Church : his friends, and even his own wife, opposed it. But those words of his Saviour overbore everything else, — 'Whosoever loveth father or mother more than M( , is not worthy of Me.' And he had no rest. At last his wife gave way. She saw his earnest desire, and declared that she would renounce every- thing for i is sake. By 'lis advice she spread the matter befo-e God in prayer, and soon became more eager to go taan she had been to stay. Then he applied to the Mission College ; but they advised patience. He, however, had already waited long ; and now even the tale of a ship's crew, wrecked are connected ian race ; and le, listened and id ; and among ibrget. It was told how they ) of Greenland, 1 by Christians. , was added by d those shores: J, the tale took j mind. ried, had fotir F Vogen, in the I of Greenland, and night. B ; for missions le Church : his posed it. But everything else, ther more than had no rest, saw his earnest renounce every- she spread the >n became more r )llege ; but they already waited 's crew, wrecked m\ HANS RGEDK. 77 and niiu-dered on the Greenland shores, did not deter him from goi'ig himself to the king, and pressing liis project. Difficulties now vanished one after another. The king gave him a favourable hearing ; 2000/. were raised; the 'Hope' vessel bought; and on 3rd July, 1710, the Norwegian family landed on the island of Kangek. But this brave missionary was to be only a sower : others entered in and reaped the fruits. In sorrow and bitterness of soul he laboured on for fifteen long years; nor was he ever permitted to see a single con- vert. At first the natives feared him, and called their sorcerers to drive him from their land : but their op- position soon passed away ; and when he could speak the language he began to prepare the ground, by telling them of the Creation, the Fall, and other Bible stories. The story of a Saviour's love he seems, from a mistaken notion, to have kept until the minds of the people were prepared for it ; and thus their hearts remained untouched : for what else could melt them ? At length Christian IV., who had always stood his friend, died, and his successor resolved to abandon the colony ; and though permission was given to Egede to remain if he would, he was told that no further help would be given to the mission. Yet he and his wife still decided to etay, while their eldest son was sent to Europe to be educated for the same work. Their faitli never failed, though it was sorely tried. It was when in the decline of life that Hans Egede received a ■I i "t ' r '* "*" "' i .^$ HI R JOHN R08H. request from tlio kiiij? that he wouUl return to luH native land. Then, looking on it as an intimation of God's will, he went, leaving his son to carry on his lalrours. His farewell Hornion was from the words, ' I have laboured in vain and spent my strength for notight : yet surely my judgment is with the Lord, and my work with my God ;' and he went back to teach the language of the Esquimaux to future labourers: for ere this others had presented themselves, and the Moravian Church had stepped in to continue the work, and to carry across the waters that story of peace which soon bowed the heart of many a Greenlander. The settlement of Hernhutt had been formed about this time, by many of that persecuted Church who had found a refuge on the estates of the good Count Zinzendorf. And to this praying people he and one of their chief leaders sent word that the Danish mission was abandoned by the Government; on which several of them gladly offered themselves, and soon joined the ' Api^stle of Greenland.' Nor was it long after his departure that, after hearing the history of the Crucifixion, one of the natives rose and earnestly cried, ' Tell me that again, for I would fain be saved too ;' and soon similar results followed the preaching all along tlie coast, and around the market of Disco the very rocks resounded to the song of praise. It is intere.sting to know that not only Egede's son, but also his grandson, laboured in the same field. ..stiiiiiiKietfsmmmn ■'—'*■""■' ■ "" "' Tfiimr^ --Ti^i*'***" (1 return to his Hn intimation on to carry on I words, ' I liave > jth for nought : ) Lord, and my ick to teach the ! labourers : for solves, and the o continue the a that story of jrt of many a ,d been formed raeouted Church tes of the good ig people he and that the Danish overnment ; on themselves, and and.' Nor was ter hearing the natives rose and for I would fain dts followed the 3und the market to the song of ' that not only laboured in the SCKNfcS AMIDST TlIK ICKHKHOS. 70 But to return to our narrative. U was soirn'tinioH (piite iuipo8Hibh> for the vessels to proceed on account of the obstruction of the ice; and when this was the case the plan ivas to make the sliip fast to an ice- lierg, on to which most of the ship's crew generally turned out, and which for the time being became an observatory. Lieutenant Parry speaks of one such scene as ' magnificent beyond all description.' • One half of the horizon,' he says, 'that to the eastward, was oc- cupied by the bleak hills of Greenland, and some of its islands not more than two miles from us. Within a few miles all around us the water was clear; but the whole of the western horizon, from land round to land, was covered with innumerable masses of ice packed together. Here and there a tn men- dous herg appeared — each assuming some peculiar fantastic shape.' ' If the scene around were grand,' he goes on, ' that upon the iceberg was not less interesting. In one part was to be seen a group attentively employed in making the requisite ob- servations. In another, a pa r/y of sportsmen firing at the numerous loons, mallemukes, kittewakes, &c. Below were the boats taking ice on board for water. Here and there a sailor or two amusing themselves in sliding down from the top of the ice to the valley below. The whole scene was extremely interesting and novel. We were employed in exe- cuting some of the most important obje-^-ts of our mis- sion, and this alone would have riade it delightful.' On one occasion, when the scientific proceedings ' i J ):a •0 Riii JOHN now. wero iiitt'rniptt'il by tho non-iippfftraiico oftlio huh, both t»fl[i4;orH and men ongnged in u mock fight ; thoHt- who hiwl gained tho Hunnnit of th« l)erg pelting tho«o bchtw with Hnow-ballH — 'a pkuiHing proof,' Parry reuiarkH, ' of tho good undorHtanding and good humour iiat exintod among the crewH. Tlie two com- manderH were, therefore, evidently free from the great difticulty which had balked 80 many of their brave predecoHHors, namely, murmura among their men. .Slowly, and witli difficulty, they matle their way up to Waygatt Strait, wliich Heparates tlie inland of Disco from Greenland; and here they fell in with a fleet of '"itween twenty and thirty English whalerm, who were waiting for the ico to open. It was a proud Bight for on Englih)ima«, as Parry observed, and gave that frozen region the appearance of a flourishing sea-port. Here they endeavoured to gain information from the young Danish governor respecting the state of the ice; but his report was discouraging: for the last two winters the Danes had not been able to com- municate with their northern settleraenta, and had been obliged to kill their dogs for food because they could not procure seals ; and this year the bay and harbours, whicli were generally open in March, still continued sliut. Yet, though they were surrounded with ice, the weather continued hot and sultry. At Waygatt Island a party of Esquimaux came on board ; and now the powers of their interpreter, John Sackhouse, were brought into play. He was charmed to introduce his countrymen and country- ^ ,l)Ci) oftllU HUH, )ck tight; tlioHf c iHTfj peliiiig pliiUHing pruotV ndiiif{ and good Tlio twt) coiii- o from the greut y of their brave ig their men. made their way es titu itfland of y fell in with a DngliHh wliuleru, pen. It was a Parry observed, p{)earanoe of a nformation from ing the state of raging: for the een able to com- smentfl, and had lod because they ear the bay and in March, still vere surrounded ind sultry, ilsquimaux came leir interpreter, play. He was 3n and count ry- HWMMHMk^ ''m I ,.•» m:, .lJ..;i'. .-X ■JfAti^' .■;-r~r1>if>|-| ■I' I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) • : 1.0 1.1 11.25 I^|2j8 |25 IJil U 11.6 6" I- !. ScMices Corporalion 23 WtST MAIN STKKT WIBSTn,N.Y. 14580 (716)«72-4S03 r«ik.i i t ii P> ^ **% V z ^ 4^ \ \ \ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microrep^oductions historiques 1 , i- Wr- WWIM WV iW M W H^ i lWU i ■ WffyWW WBW wjMHwupniiij ii iim w Mu i <«*■ ' .^ ' 1 ->.. '■ 111 I. w \\ . ii i ■■V ' I Q IF , ^jHjBr?aB)B^ejs^^g^ia^SM-"'iyew^*'fc 7 ■.^ y M^y^wiK.'^«a»i««|i»iii VISIT FROM NORTHERN ESQUIMAUX. 83 women, and as these had been under the instnic- tions of the Danish missionary he had no cause to be ashamed of them. Captain Ross asked of them a sledge and dog, of- fering them a riHe in exchange. They immediately went to fetch them, but refused to accept the pay- ment until they had produced the sledge; which was soon brought in a boat, managed by five women dressed in seal-skins. Their canoes are, probably, the old kajaks seen by Frobisher; but this boat was of a different kind, and was called an ' oomiack,' or women's boat. Two of the women who rowed it were daughters of a Danish resident and an Esqui- maux mother. The visitors were all invited on board, where they were charmed by having their portraits taken ; after which they danced Scotch reels on the deck with the sailors, to the excessive delight of Sackhouse, who acted the part of mabter of the ceremonies, paying particular attention to one of the half-Danish young ladies, a girl of about eighteen, and, without question, the belle of the party. One of the officers, noticing his preference, gave him a lady's shawl, ornamented with spangles, as a present for her; which the young man immediately offered in a graceful and respectful manner, and which was received with a bashful but eloquent smile, the fair one taking a pewter ring from her finger and presenting it in return. Sackhouse accompanied his country-folk oii shore, but next day, nothing having been heard of him, messengers were sent to search for him ; when iji m iJi < .-m 84 SIR JOHN BOSS. he was found in a hut with his collar-hone broken. Having gone to look for specimens of natural his- tory, he thought 'plenty powder, plenty kill;' and so caused a recoil of his gun by overloading it. It was some time before this was quite cured. Sixteen days after reaching Disco Island the ships passed the second barrier of ice, and found themselves oflf Sanderson's Hope. And here a very curious instance of unequal refraction was noticed: some of those whaling-vessels, which were only two or three miles off, appearing to be drawn up to an enormous height ; while those more distant seem.'d flavtened to the surface of the water. The little group of islands to which, because some native women were seen hiding behind the rocks, Baffin had given the name of Women's Islands, were now in sight : but why they worked up this eastern side of Baffin's Bay at all it is not easy to under- stand ; as, of course, the passage could not possibly be discovered there : but Ross had utterly misunder- stood h?s instnxctions, as we see by his calling the accouat, which he drew up afterwards, a voyage made * for the purpose of exploring Baffin's Bay.' Under this delusion he continued coasting along northward, taking advantage of every passage through the ice ; and when the ships were unable to sail, having them towed along by the boatfl. Sometim^js all the crew would turn out, and, led by the Scotch fiddler, "ould haul the ships along. But the ice was moving rapidly, and breaking up ; so that, from time to time, they came to a weak place, and one and another ^im.- - ■ i . ..W . 'i*ii » ' *'*- " w» Wn > Mn« p I ' l ' iiiiiiiMw ' II I t THE VESSELS TWICE IN DANGER. 85 ar-bone broken. of natural his- lenty kill;' and rloading it. It cured, isco Island the ice, and found ^nd here a very on was noticed: 1 were only two drawn up to an ! distant seem.'d which, because aehind the rocks, a's Islands, were up this eastern ; easy to under- iild not possibly tterly misunder- bis calling the s, a voyage made s Bay.' d coasting along passage through t)le to sail, having ometimes all the e Scotch fiddler, e ice was moving om time to time, »ne and another v,'ould fall in. However, as they never let go the rope, they were soon hauled out again : and these little incidents furnished considerable amusement for the sailors. All this time they were still in the company of whalers ; yet even before they left the fishing-ground they were placed in great danger by the ships being dashed one against another, with such violence that, but for their immense strength, they must have been broken to pieces. This concussion was caused by the rapid movement of the ice ; and they were thank- ful to escape with only damaged rigging. A greater peril soon succeeded. The ice was moving in large masses called 'floes.' These are much the same as * fields,' except that the extent of the latter cannot be seen from the mast-head. To one of these • floes,' supposed to be stationary, the vessels had been moored after the catastrophe just mentioned ; probably in order to undergo repairs. Suddenly this floe was found to be drifting straight on to some stranded icebergs, and all hands were set to cut a dock : that is, to saw a hole in the ice large enough to receive the ships. This is done in order to prevent their being 'nipped' between two floes. The dock was just ready, though happily the vessels had not entered it, when the very part in which it had been cut struck with such violence against the berg, that it was forced at least £fty feet up its side, and the pieces scattered in all directions •'I 86 SIR JOHN ROSS. Ha I the ships been docked, they must instantly have b(!en crushed to atoms. Something of this kind, indeed, happened to a whaling- vessel in tbuir sight, and the crew barely escaped with their lives. At length, on the 8th of August, a point was reached which seems to have been hitherto unvisited by Europeans, and on a little island some of the crew landed, and foimd some of those piles of stones which indicate an Esquimaux burial-ground, but no natives. Soon after they had returned to the ship, however, some sledges were seen rapidly coming over the ice ; but when Sackhouse, on their approach, hailed them in a loud voice, they seemed not to understand him : nor could he at first comprehend their reply. After looking at the ship for some time in silence they suddenly turned, and rapidly made their way back again : nor did any of them re-appear for many hours. Presents were carried ashore, and white flags hoisted, in token of peace ; and at last a few were seen timidly approaching. Then Sackhouse, whose eagerness was only equalled by the tact which he dis- played, obtained leave to go ashore. After exchanging many shouts, he thought that he perceived that they were only using a very drawl- ing dialect of his own language, and immediately called to them, ^Kahkeite — Come on;' to which they answered, 'Naahne naakrieai-plaite — No ; go away ;' and one added, drawing a knife from his boot, *I can kill you.' jjif '•.'»l*arl-.i»&--f- -r-TfVft ■ . .« lUiMt must instantly , happened to a ;lie crew barely st, a point was therto unvisited ome of the crew piles of stones al - ground, but le ship, however, ag over the ice ; ich, hailed them inderstand him : ir reply. le time in silence made their way appear for many > and white flags last a few were iackhouse, whose let which he dis- he thought that ng a very drawl- md immediately I on;' to which plaite — No ; go knife from his tij. ■v.r ii^^fe^6i!*Si!f:Mi-if''^Sisi)»(0j^U'=i^ s;;*s;&i«ifit.-it;j J ? j i itfij i i' i iiu i i ii f i j V i jijt ■ i Wi i lEJM i u , ROSS'S ARCTIC HiailLAMDERS. 89 But Sackhouse was not at all HiHheartened, and only threw them Bome beads, a shirt, and, lastly, an English knife ; on seeing which latter they picked it up, shouting, ^ Heigh yaw!* and pulling their noses. He repeated the words and actions, and something like friendship wnH established, so that they began to ask questions. Pointing to the ships, they asked, ' What those great creaturf-s were, and whether they came fro'tn the sun or .he moon ? ' His answer, however, was not credited ; for, when he told them that they were houses made of wood, they replied, — 'No; they are alive : we have seen them move th/»ir wings.' His account of himself, * that he came from the south,' was also as little believed, for they said, — ' That could not be ; there was only ice there,' At length, as they could not be induced to enter the ship. Captain Ross and Lieutenant Parry, who were both eager to communicate with these strange beings, took a number of presents, among which were some looking-glasses, and went ashore. This caused fresh alarm among them, and they were again about to retreat when Sackhouse called to the oflBcers to pull their noses and shout, * Heigh yaw!* Then the Esqui- maux came on, each receiving, as they did so, a knife and a lookiug-glass. It would be difficult to describe their utter astonishment on seeing their own faces in the glass. Shouts and laughter succeeded to the perfect silence which prevailed for the first minute or two; and the English officers, partly to 00 Mill JOHN R0S8. oxpreHH their good feeling, and partly because they could not help it, nioHt gladly and heartily joined in the laugh. Ah they proceeded, much intercHt was excited among the crew by the crimson fti)pearance of the snow ; and a few of them were sent on shore to pro- cure some of it, when it waH discovered to be of the same colour to the depth of ten or twelve feet. The discovery, however, was no new one, for crimson snow has l)een found on the Alps, and in Spitzbergen, while Pliny and other ancient writers have mentioned it ; but scientific men differ as to its origin. They continued to receive visits from their new friends, or from others who had heard of the English visitors through them, and they finally took leave of them, feeling that at least they had thoroughly im- pressed this new idea on their minds — that their tribe did not include the whole population of the world. Captain Ross bestowed the name of 'The Arctic Highlands ' on the country. Cape Dudley Digges was soon after passed, and Smith's Sound was now in sight; but instead of thoroughly examining this, and ascertaining whether it were in truth a sound or a strait, they passed it at a distance, and in the same way sailed by Jones' Sound on the west of the bay. Thus Captain Ross lost the merit of discovering that both of these are really straits. On the 30th, the water to the westward being observed to be almost free from ice, the two vessels made direct for Lancaster Sound. '■■»^.;ft»U'. ^■^**"-t*3»,''" <'iX: ... i^. -. THK VESHRI-S IK LANr'AHTKR HorND. 91 ly ))ecauHe they eartily joined in eMt waH excited )peurnnce of the on Bhore to pro- *red to l)e of the velve feet. The for 'jrimson buow pitzbergen, while ve mentioned it ; igin. B from their new rd of the English illy took leave of I thoroughly im- ind8 — that their opulation of the le name of 'The after passed, and ; but instead of srtoining whether they passed it at sailed by Jones' tius Captain Ross both of these are ) westward being e, the two vessels And here the accounts of the two coniniunderH are coujpletely at variance. Perhaps old Baffin's nurrativ«) had nuido a different iinpreNHion on their minds; but iw Parry's turned out to be tiie correct opinion, it will be best to follow his narrative of the proceedings. The 'crow's nest' and 'mast-head* were at this point constantly crowded, he tells us ; ' for the ex- pectations of many were raiHed to the highest pitch. Hera,' he continues, ' Baffin's hopes of a passage began to be less; hero, on the contrary, mine begin to grow strong. I think there is sometliing in his account which gives cause to suspect he did not see the bottom of Lancaster Sound, . . . nor have we yet seen the bottom of it.' The 'Isabella,' under a press of nail, kept steadily on in advance of her consort. The 'Alexander' was a much slower sailer ; and this had been a matter of great annoyance all through the voyage, and was particularly so at this moment, when the inlet looked more and more promising, and when there was a strong swell from the north-west, which they could bitt think was caused by its being an entrance into the ocean. In a short account sent to a monthly journal by one of thfe officers on their return, we find it stated that here ' every officer and man, on the instant as it were, made up his mind that this must be the North-west Passage;' and the writer added, — 'I firmly believe that every creature on board antici- pated the pleasure of writing an overland despatch M 'Sm v Avy:t»?g!u j ' ' ;Mi ' !j'Wiu-g;.iii;ii'-!-^w ! i ' i5a'i'w ;'!'^^- .^m]i < ! )"■ ' ' '*" e eastern or western and without any ap- cked and rejoined her out a word of expla- ive become somewhat b Captain Ross stated lick and cloudy ; and arance of its clearing ly saw the land round a chain of mountains,' tttalns, but which will rst Arctic expedition men were obliged to In aU former ones, it was the crews who rs who were forced to hings was reversed in :no when ?', was par- re, that on their return id their opinions, and B public very speedily t Parry at first made » private friends; but ord Me' iJle, his real that nobleman, as veil row, the latter did not parry's opinion. t^ Before the voyage we find, from Parry's own words, that he was not sanguine as to the existence of the passage ; but on his return he told a friend that 'his sentiments had quite altered — that he knew it to exist, and that it was not very hard to find.' I 'Ml V. i f .■Jiuait-j.-J ' Jftw^ww^'i.ww i iUM'^MLw 94 I t i i m iii !'■ Ml CHAPTER V. « CAPTAIN BUCHAN'S POLAR EXP'^.DITION. Let lis now follow the other two vessels which we left at Lerwick, just starting on their northern course. Their object was, as we shall remember, jv still bolder one than that set before Captain Rossj for they were to endeavour to cross even the North Pole itself, and so to gain the Pacific. It was to bo a repetition of the attempt made by Captain Phiipps when Nelson was a boy ; or, to go much furcuer bfick, it was to be a following out of the scheme pro- posed to King Henry VIII. by the Bristol merchant, Mr. Robert Thorne. And with fully as much enthusiasm as his, though with far b^itti vessels than his monarch could have provided, wai' the undertaking carried out. Yet ' that little way ' just about the Pole, of which he spoke so slightingly, proved, in spite of * its constant summer dariight,' a tougher piece of navigation than Mr. RobeH Thorne- had anticipated. Captain Buchan was, however, well prepared for his task, having been much on the coast of ITew- ' foundland ; and by the 24th May the had already If ww"V""f |i % WALRUSES NEAR BEAR ISLAND. &5 ir'^.DITION. wo vessels which on their northtrn remember, ft still IJaptain Rossj for en the North Pole It was to w a ly Captain Phinps nuch furcner bfick, the scheme pro- I Bristol merchant, ii fully as much far b^itti vessels )rovided, wai' the aat little way ' just ike so slightingly, immer dariight,' a Mr. HobeH Thome ^er, well prepared I the coast of ITew- r the had already reached that littlo island which by Barentsz had first been named Bear Island, because bears were the only living things that he found there ; and afterwards by Captain Bennet (who knew not that it had been visited before), Cherie Isle, after the alderman who, in 1603, had sent him out. Wa1nis«8. The crews of the ' Dorothea ' and * Trent ' nv'>t, however, with a different kind of living creatures amongst the ice, which detained them for a while in its neighbourhood. Those irere the walruses, which were so numerous that one ship's crew alone took between 900 and 1000 of them ; their chai*?oter and habits are described by Lieutenant mm 96 CAPTAIN BUCHAN. t Beechey, in his narrative of the voyage, as most curious. Their affection for their young, and their com- passion for any wounded comrade, whom they i?ould never leave until they had carried him to a place of safety, were, he tells us, equally remarkable. ' When the weather was warm,' he says, * animals of various kinds would crawl up out of the pools in the vast sheets of ice around the vessels to bask in the warmth of the sun.' A walrus rose in one of these pools close to the ship ; and finding eveiything quiet, dived down nd brought up its young, which it held by its breast by pressing it with its flipper. In this manner it moved about the pool, keeping in an erect posture, and always directing the face of its young toward the vesseL On the slightest njiovement on board the mother released her flipper, and pushed the young one under water; but when everything was again quiet, she brought it up again as before, atkd for a length of time continued to play about in the pool, to the great amusement of the seamen, who gave her credit for abilities in tuition which, though possessed of considerable sagacity, she hardly merited. The instructions which Buchan hud received directed him to make his way between the coasts of Spitz- bergen and Greenland, without stopping at cither ; but this order it was found impossible altogether to carry out. Even before they reached the latitude of Spitzbergen the two vessels had become sepa- rated in a fog, and were obliged to take refuge in the rendezvous fixed on in case of such a catastrophe, le voyage, as most ing, and their com- e, whom they i?ould d him to a place of remarkable. a,' he says, ' animals out of the pools in e vessels to bask in ilrus rose in one of i finding eveiytbing ip its young, which y it with its flipper. :he pool, keeping in soting the face of its ! slightest njovement ■ flipper, and pushed at when everything up again as before, ed to play about in ; of the seamen, who lition which, though , she hardly merited, ud received directed the coasts of Spitz- stopping at cither; jssible altogether to eached the latitude had become sepa- id to take refuge in F such a catastrophe, THE REIN-lyEEH. 97 namely, Magdalena Bay, on the north-east of that is- land — or, rather, group of islands; for Spitzbergen is not one, but several islets, amongst which are to be found on all sides many curious and magnificent bays. Here, as the barrier of ice l)eyond was then impenetrable, Buchaii determined to stay for a few days. Like its Dutch discoverer, Barentsz, they were to see the island in its summer beauty ; and, like him, they soon discovered it to be the home of a con- siderable variety of birds and animals, the sea being as much alive as the land. Bears and foxes abound everywhere; and, in some parts, the rein-deer also. The latter take freely to the water, and swim from island to island. They feed on moss, and were found in excellent con- dition. On the Isle of Vogelsang alone the crews obtaiced forty fine carcases. «They were then in pairs, and showed such evident affection for one another, that when one was shot the other wo«ld hang over it, and occasionally lick it, apparently bemoaning its fate; and if not immediately killed, it would stand three or four shots rather than desert its fallen companion.' And ' this compassionate conduct of theirs,' con- tinues Beechey, « doubled our chance of success, al- though it was obtained at the expense of our better feelings.' The crews tried to preserve some alive, but they were so wild that, in their attempts to get free, they broke their slender limbs ; so that, to put H m aii I V. »^ i ; ;K 98 CAPTAIN HUCHAN. them out of their sufferingH, they were obliged to be shot. On another ishind the king eider-ducks were found in such numbers, that it was difficult to walk without treading on tlieir nests. Yet the parent birda have a. way of preserving the eggs against the attacks of wild animals ; for when any appear, and they are obliged to fly, they first glue the down of the nest over the eggs with a yellow fluid, which has such an abominable smell that not even a fox will toiicli them. Then tlie rocks reverberated with the cries of the merry little auks, of willocks, divers, cormorants, gulls, and other aquatic birds. In fact, these little auks, or rotges, came in sneh multitudes, that about four millions were supposed to be on the wing at one time. Tiiey darkened the air, and their chorus might be heard at the distance of four miles. And at the same time might be seen * groups of wtlrases basking in the sun, and mingling their plaj^ul roar with the husky bark of the seal ;' ' while ampliibious animals of all sorts, and fish, from the huge whale to the minute dio on which it feeds, swallowing, perhaps, a million at a mouthful, en- livened both the ice and the water.' It is the comparative mildness of the climate which no doubt causes it to be, though destitute of human inhabitants, the resort of so many of the animal creation. Oh the western side, even with the thermometer only a little above freezing, there was but little sen- sy wore obliged to eider-ducks were t WU8 difficult to 4t8. Yet the parent ; the eggs against when any appear, first glue the down yellow fluid, which uit not even a fox with the cries of divers, cormorants. In fact, these little Ititudes, that about )e on the wing at r, and their chorus f four miles, be seen * groups of nd mingling their afthe seal;' 'while and fish, from the on which it feeds, it a mouthful, en- ter.' ess of th*^ climate -hough destitute of •f so many of the ;h the thermometer . was but little sen- m^\ fill n 111 iU Si; SI SCENERY OF HPITZBEIKJEN. 101 eaiion of cold. Sometimes the mm had great power ; and once at midnight, beneath hiH rays, the quick- silver rose to 73°. GrusseH and licliens flourish in the more southern aspects; and, even to the height of 15,000 feet above the sea, Alpine plants ^-ore found. It was summer time, however — the .>rd of June — when they anchored in Magdalcna Bay ; yet the ice in the harbour was not then melted, though by the beginning of August, when they returned, it had quite disappeared. Four immense glaciers, of which one called the * Hanging Iceberg,' which rested on the slope of a mountain 200 feet above the sea, distinguish this bay. The islands derived their name Spilberg, Spit- bergen, or Spitzbergen, from the sharp-pointed moun- tains which characterise the group. It was given by its Du*x*h discoverers. But amidst these mountains, icebergs and gla- ciers, of course, abound. Of their appearance in the rays of an Arctic sun, and under an expanse of azure of which not even an Italian sky will give a just con- ception, we leave our readers to form an idea. It is better imagined than described. It was shortly after their arrival that the crews had the opportunity of witnessing the extraordinary spectacle of the formation of a sea-iceberg. The re- port of a musket sufficed to bring down an enormous block of ice, which, by its fall, caused the sea to boil violently, even to the distance of four miles, at which the 'Dorothea' was riding. For a few moments the 10*2 OAITAIN HUCIIAN. ihiglity muHH «jntiroly diHnppeared ; tlien roiirod On head Ji^jfiiin al)ove the wator, and travoUod on ; making a continual popping noise, like the crocking of a carter's t»liip — caiued, no doubt, 1)y the cucape of Kxed air — wliilo a stream of water was seen pouring' (k)wn its sides. One of the tH)atM was out, and its crew, sup- posing themselveH ({uite beyond its reach, were .^- 1 ; tlien roiinKl it« LVoUud on ; making the crocking uf a , 1)y the oucape of r wuH Hwm pouring ,nd its crew, Bup- reach, were <|uietly id themnelvcB lifted , and carried a dis- ained to be ninety- it was found to re- Id regain the ship. Iiave said, and yet pass the barrier 1 the Pole. It was it hold them back, it * little way,' and 7 coveted. ey left Magdalena gst what is called ■ ice. This seemed : as they went on ; )ened a passage for ' turned westward. Brs, who told them that direction, for tie further on. So ? north, and passed nt of the island. Is the ice once more t t '«i W.tn .i wW Pii KASIIINCI INTO TIIK I'ArKKl* K'K. 103 cloHcd in; and it was only after gniit cxtfrtions that they got again into the Hoo, in which they were en- clowid for thirteen dayH. A movement tlu-n took place in the ico towards the south, and the Nliips got again into an optMi Kea, and proceeded for u little while, but were HOwed the entire control , as well as the choice ; ' Griper ' Lieutenant he wtifl the only officer r other of the last two > difficulty in finding iers offered themselves ; ipplied with provisions 3rs and men started in iiat the most singular s, that Parry was again mt ; while Commander unprofitable voyage of it once a'Vanced to the own remark on the sub- Hecla," and at the chart is promotion to this ! " ^g a great pet of his, perfect: but with the 8 so well satisfied ; and ce of as much vexation d been the last year. it later than on that o'jcasictn, but arrived at the mouth of Lancaster Sound a month earlier, as they sailed direct for it, and not round Baffin's Bay ; their instructions being thoroughly to examine that opening, and, in the event (jf failure there, to pass on to Jones' and Smith's Sounds, as neither had l>een thoroughly examined by Ross. Failure, however, did not await them ; for this voyage was to accomplish what so many previous ones had failed in — it was to open the entrance to the North-west Passage 1 This, therefore, our readers may possibly think its great characteristic. On first approaching the western side of the bay, they were considerably disconcerted to find there a vast sheet of ice, amongst which were many bergs ; and once they had a narrow escape of being * nipped/ between a floe and an iceberg, which was fast driving on to it^ The boats had to be got out, and the ships were only just towed out of the way in time. But Parry was so sure that he should find clear water on the other side that he was determined to force a passage ; and * after a whole week's labo- rious sailing, tracking, and towing,' this was at length accomplished. It was on the Ist of August that they had thus passed all these icy barriers, and stood at the entrance of what was then known as Sir James Iiancaster's Sound, which Parry soon transformed into Barrow's Strait. * It is more easy to imagine than to describe,' he writes, ' the almost breathless anxiety which was now visible in every countenance, { 1' i .^^mmmmmmm |i' 108 SIR EDWARD PARRY. ^ii' while, aa the breeze increased to a fresh gale, we ran quickly up the Sound. The mast-heads were crowded by the officers and men during the whole afternoon ; and an unconcerned observer, if any could have been unconcerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the eagerness with whicii the various reports from the crow's nest were received; all, however, hitherto favourable to our most sanguine hopes.' On and on tliey sailed, and no * Croker Moun- tains' came in sight ; so the name was given to the first large inlet in the northern shore. Still they dreaded lest the land should trend round, and join the south coast ; and once the cry of * land ' from the inast-head scared every one. But it turned out to be only a little island, which they attempted to pass on the south side. This passage proving im- prac*^icable, Parry gave it the name of Prince Regent's Inlet, as it happened to be the Prince's ]»irthday, and returned up the strait, along which they were now able to coast on the north side. One very curious plienomenon we nnist not omit here to relate. It was, that by the time they had reached lOO*^ west longitude from Greenwich the compasses had entirely lost their directing power. They had become very sluggish from the moment they entered the strait* but when attempting to sail up Prince Regent's Inlet they altogether failed, and were put away as useless lumbci ; so the vessels had to proceed without their friendly guidance. Now it was one of their great objects to obtain . -m>T RRY. THE FIRST ANCHORAGE. 109 to a fresh gale, we mast-heads were en during the whole observer, if any could 1 an occasion, would igerness with which B crow's nest were to favourable to our d no * Croker Moun- .me was given to the m shore. Still they rend round, and join 3 cry of * land ' from ?. But it turned out ;h they attempted to passage proving im- me of Prince Regent's he Prince's ]»irthday, )ng which they were uh side. lon we nnist not omit >y the time they had from Greenwich the deir directing power, jh from the moment en attempting to s&il altogether failed, and ci ; so the vessels had lly guidance, •eat objects to obtain . further light on the subject of magnetism ; and every opportunity was therefore, throughout the voyage, given to Captain Sabine and the otlior scientific men for making observations on this and other important subjects. Had not the time been too precious, Parry would gladly have stayed here to ascertain exactly the position of the magnetic north pole, which he felt sure they were very near, and which he correctly surmised, from the above-mentioned circumstance, to be situated nearly where Sir James Ross afterwards found it, i. e. about two or three degrees from the me- ridian, 100° W. from Greenwich. But the season was pasding, and they must push on. At length, to the great relief of every one, they came out int» '. fine broad channel, on which Parry bestowed the name of Wellington, and now they soon reached the point at which the ship's crew became entitled to the reward of 5000^. offered by Government to the first of his Majesty's subjects who should sail thus far west. This point was meridian, 1 10° W., within the Arctic circle ; and the name of Bounty Cape was given by the men to the point at which the observation had been taken. This was a promontory of Melville Island, just beyond which the ships anchored for the first time in the bay of the * Hecia' and ' Griper.' Here, how- ever, they did not remain, for they had not a day to lose, as the weather by this time was rapidly becoming colder, and the nights dark ; so that, without the aid of their compasses, they were obliged to sail slowly Alt M ■J 110 SIR EDWARD PARRY. and caiitioiiflly, especially as naviffatifni here was very dangerous, and each vessel more than once narrowly escaped destruction. Liejitenant Liddon was already uffering from an attack of rheumatism, caused by exposure to the cold, and whilst still ill his ship was violently driven ashore, and with diffi- culty got dtF again. Notliing could, however, induce him to leave his ship, even for an hour, while it was in danger. He determined to remain in her like a true seaman. The month of September is usually the most favourable one in the whole year for sailing in these seas, because they are then the freest from ice ; but in 1819 the season came to an end earlier than usual. By the 12th the ships were completely besot, and could not be moved ; so, as coal had been observed on shore, a party was sent out to collect it. Another little company hiving also b^-cLJ, lost their way in a sflviw storm, a id fo.u different parties were sent to search for tlipm ; but several anxious days passed before thcy all returned, most of them completely exha':dt«d, and some considerably frost-bitten. It "WfiS evidently high time to look out for winter quarters; but after a spot had been selectci, the terribly laborious work remained of cutting a pas- sage through the ice, for the ships were still set fast. This occupied three whole days, but, headed by their commander, officers and men alike worked on steadily, and though often up to their knees in water, not one complaint was heard. At length, amidst the heartiest cheers that British seamen :uy. avijjutifni here was b1 more, than once Lieiitenunt Liddon tack of rheumatism, , and whilHt still ill lore, and with diffi- ild, however, induce n hour, while it was remain in her like a 3 usually the most for sailing in these est from ice ; but in earlier than usual, mpletely besot, and had been observed collect it. Another .u, lost their way in t parties were sent inxious days passed 3f them completely ly frost-bitten. It )ok out for w'nter been sclectci, the 1 of cutting a pas- •s were still set fast, ays, but, headed by en alike worked on to their knees in heard. At length, lat British seamerk r*ji. 4^ ■ I m u |i;;! WINTKR HARBOUR. 113 could give, the ♦ Hecla' and 'Griper' were drawn into Winter Harbour, Melville Island. There had been no pause as yet, either a8 to work or excitement ; but when both vessels had been enveloped in thick coverings, and the berths warmed by a stream of heated air from the stove, nothing then remained but just to make themselves as com- ' Hecla" and GiiiMjr' in Winter Harljour fortable as they could for a long dreary period of some seven or eight months to come. And truly this was a prospect sufficient to try the courage of Ihe bravest crews, still more so of their commander. Now, indeed, was the time to dread lest murmurs, or even mutiny, might break out among the men, unaccustomed as they were to an inactive life, and I ii 114 HIR KDWAHI) PARRV. without tliose rc'Hoiirce» of wlucation wliich wert' sure to K'HseH tho triul to tlieir officers. But I'lirryV own rejsourcen were unfailing. He luul just the natural tact and variety of talents which enabled hitn to meet this emergency ; and IiIh contented diw- poHition, and peculiarly bright and cheerful tempera- ment, gained for him the atfection and ewtei'm of his wlioli company. ' My attention,' ho wrote in his journal at this period, * was immediately and imperiously called to various important duties, many of them of a singular nature, such as had for the first time devolved on any officer ol" his Majesty'n navy, and might, indeed, be considered of rare occurrence in the whole history of navigation.' Tliese various duties consisted in attending to tlie security of the ships, as well as to the health and comfort, the employment and amusement, of those under his command; and in attempting to estimate the diffictilties attending these latt«r in their present condition, we must remember that in the matter of their own health sailors are very like children, and have to be dealt with accordingly. For a few weeks after their encampment at Winter Harbour it was found possible to secure fresh meat, exercise, and amusement by means of hunting-parties ; and the deer and grouse thus ..akeu were shared by officers and men, certain rules being laid down, which were called * the game laws,' pro- hibiting any prize thus caught from being considered as private property. But by the end of October all animals had left the island and migrated towards catiitn wliicli weru RctTH. Hilt I'lirry'H lU' hiul just tlu' ■ntw which cnabltMl il \m contt'iitt'il (Uh- d cheerful tonipera- bion and eMtt^'iu of ntion,' lio wrote in 1 imniediutcly and important duties, lire, Buch bh liad for icer Oi" his Majesty'M considered of rare f navigation.' 1 in attending to tlie 1 to tlie health and nuseinent, of those upting to estimate ter in their present lat in the matter of f like children, and ir encampment at possible to secure nient by means of d grouse thus <.akeu certain rules being e game laws,' pro- TQ being considered end of October all migrated towards THK WINTKU AMI'SKMKNTS. 11 A the south. Deprived of this resource, it wjis nncra- sary to provich- some exercise which should he ohji- gatory when the weather was too severe for the men to leave the sliips. The deiks were therefore cleared, that the men might lie made to run round them to the tune of a hand-organ or a s..ng. Tht^y were also obliged each dny, under the eye of an officer, to drink a certain amount of liiiu'-juice and water; the dread of the sailors' scourge, scurvy, being, of course, ever before Parry's eyes. Dreary in the extreme was still, as he says, the view before them ; not an object to he seen in any direction except their own Hres, or a sound, except that of their own voices, to break the deathlike still- ness : though even then the hope of spending a part of the next winter in the sunny isles of the south did much towards keeping up their spirits, lint it was now absolutely necessary to provide some amuse- ments for both officers and men ; and for this pur- pose two ideas were struck out by Parry: first, that they should, from time to time, get up a play among themselves ; and, secondly, that they should set up a weekly newspaper, of which Capt. Sabine should be editor, and which should be called ' The North Georgian Gazette and Winter Chronicle.' The sun took it« leaye of them for the winter on the 5th of November, and on that day they had their fi^fit performance. Parry took the liveliest interest in these amuse- ments, and himself contributed both to their stock of plays arid to the journal. They were considered II ma Hte Ill I 116 SIR KDWAKD I'ARRY. very important matterH by him, ' ft)r ho dreaded,' to U80 Ilia own worda, ' the want of employment, uh one of the worst evilH that vran likely to l)efal them.' They had aH a ChriHtmoH piece • The North- west PaiiBage,* the product of hiu pen ; and on the Hame day the officers dined off a piece of English roast beef, preserved since the preoedinj^ May, witli- out salt, and simply by the cold. It waH not until the 3rd of February that a glimpse of the sim was again caught from the main- top of the ' Hecla.' His orb was not, in fact, fully visible! for foif days more ; for it was the refractive power of the atmospl ero which caused them to see this welcome sight before he really rose above the horizon ; and notwithstanding his presence, the cold was then uwvv, severe than previously. During this month the thermometer was down to 55° below zero ! and yet so cheered were they by the sun's return, that they now l)egan to make preparations for the coming siunmer, tiiough tiiey had to wait until the end of April l)cfore the temperature rose to freezing point; which, by contrast, appeared to them so hot, that the men had to be restrained from leaving off thdr winter clothes.' By the end of May the ice was, with nuich labour, cut through, so as once more to got the ships afloat ; but it was not until the Ist of August that it was sufficiently melted to allow of the escape from their ten months' impri- sonment. Meanwhile, ^o pass away the time. Parry made ni#.f their visit. Kven when they ha)i ill (liiit diitHrtioii mo clear t hut, ill kIx tliiys. tli.-y liad |niss»'(l Hiroii^rli l.iiiu'uwtor Hound, and Hodii III). Twanlitrll in witli Home wlialin^;- i»lii|H, from which thty heard the tidinj,'H of the death of the ol<| Kiiij? (k'orgo III., and of hiw hom, thi^ Duke of Kent. They reached Kii;,dand two inonthH afterwardn ; and Parry then immediately obtained hiH jtromotion to tho rank of conimaiKier, aa an expruHHion of tlio satisfaetioii with which hiH eomhict of tlie expedition wiw received l»y tlie hordn of the Admiralty. Soon lifter, the corporation of Hath did him the iioiioiir of conferring on him the freeihmi of tliat iii« native eity, which was prcHeiited in a box iimde of a piece of tho wood of the « Hechi.' Norwich followed the example. He was made a F«'llow of the Royal So- ciety; and, in fact, all sorts of honourH were heaped upon him. But Parry'H own fir»t act on the arrival of his two v(«8elH in the ThaiucH mm to go, at tlie heajl of all hin men, to return their public thankH, at St. Mary's in the Strand, to H.^i who IumI ho gra- ciouHly watched over and kept, t> ...i during all tho dangiTrt to which they had be< n exposed, and who had blessed them with so unusual a measure of health, that, notwithstanding all they had gone through, the whole of the two crews, officers and men, had re- turned as well and strong as when they left the shores of England ; with the exception of one man, who had died at Melville Island .)f an old complaint. This I im-M I W MBMMI be;-, ■, V, I lie two Vi'Hhi'Im 2(!tli Aii^itHt ; mill Hon HO ('Ifar that, liroiijjfli liiiiioHHter villi Hoiim wliiiliii^- li) ti(liii;i;H of the I., and of IiIh Hon, lontliH aftcrwanlH ; iic'd liJH |iroinotion I expreHHion of the \ of the expedition Admiralty. Soon I liini tli<> lionour I of tluit liirt native ( nnwlo of n ploco wicli followed the V of the lioyiii So- lourH were heaped net on the arrival WUH to go, at the • public thnnlcH, at t who hiul HO gra- -i.i during all the exposed, and who nieaniire of health, gone through, the II nd men, had re- liey left the shores one man, who had oomplaint. This XMMHMMMIltMlMwMHMMMltnNI « ■ l | i «^ I ■-l ll l Iftf »!i I'AHUY's CHARACTKII. 11!) act wna quite in keepiiifij wit i his gencnil cliaiiiclrr, as we hIiivII hit nioie and nior*' an we follow liis eoiirne for a little while. He was, and he miule no secret of It, even then, a relij^iouH man, thoiigli a eoiiHider- alilt* change in IiIh .views tunk plaee during his later yeivrn. ~"iirriiiiwiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiw'' 120 , ^l i CHAPTER VII. I SIR JOHN franklin's FIRST LAND EXPEDITION. We must now change the s^ene ; and instead, of con- tinuing here our narrative of Commander Parry's ad- ventures, proceed to give some account of the Arctic land expedition under the command of liis intimate friend, Commander (afterwards Captain) Sir John Franklin, to whose name so melancholy and so lasting an interest is now attached. For it seems better to keep to the chronological order in our history ; and besides, this land expedi- tion of Franklin's was intended to supplement, and, if possible, assist that of Parry by sea. It was, therefore, in the same month (May) of the year 1819 that both of them set out; Franklin, and his little party of four, embarking on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship, 'Prince of Wales,' for York P actory, on the east of Hudson's Bay, where they were to commence their journey. These four companions were picked men, and all distinguished themselves, more or less, by tlie zeal and ability with which they discharged their respective offices. Dr. Richardiion, a naval surgeon, * deserves,' says mmmmmt' fij^j|flLnniiiTile attendant, made the fourth person. In the mouth of Hudson's Strait the ' Prince of Wales' narrowly escaped shipwreck, just off the dreaded rocky shores of Resol ition Island ; nor was it until the 30th of August tiiat they landed at York Factory : for few voyages of an equal length are so tedious or so dangerous as that across Hudson's Bay. Not until June does that great sea, as it should really be called, open, and in September it closes again ; while even during this short interval it is so encumbered with ice, and so disturbed by currents, that navigation is very dangerous. At York Factory, which is one of the Hudson's Bay Company's stations, they were at once furnished with a very large and suitable boat, provisions and ammunition for their inland voyage, as well as with letters from the governor to the up-country agents. At the same place also they happily met with some of the North-west Company's agents, from whom they received further inforre-ation, as well as an as- surance of a welcome at any of their stations through which they might pass. The service appointed for Commander Franklin retjuired him to examine and map out the whole line 122 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. of coast, from t)ie roppennine River eastwfinl. ' It was therefore \m ImsiiiesH in the first place to reach tlie mouth of that river, and in doing so to travel over the country traversed in the preceding century by Hearne. He must, conse({ueiitIy, pass over territory oc- cupied by those iwo rival companies to wliieh we have referred; and as the feud between tlieni was tlien so violent, that wherever the one party was the stronger it made a point of oppressing the other, to the extent of imprisonment, and even death, it re- •piired the exercise of all Franklin's natural prudence to keep on good terms with both, and thus to obtain the assistance that he needed. As soon, therefore, iis he entered the country lie gave orders to his officers, and to all whom they employed, that they were on no account to mix themselves up with any of the quarrels which must come under their observation : and the wisdom of this order was most happily fully appreciated by them. As has been already stated, the little band received all that they stood in need of from the officials of the elder company at York Factory. They then immediately made the best of their way on to Cumberland House, on Pine-island l.ake, in order to get into that chain of lakes by which tli^ might reach the Coppermine River. They arrived at Cumberland on October 22nd, after having tra- velled about 700 miles by means of ten rivers and nine lakes, and passed over many rocks, rapids, mm «i I.IN. River oivstwiinl. ' It ! first place to reuch 1 doing so to travel ? preceding century i over territory oc- panies to wliicli we between tlieni was le one party was the ret^sing the other, to 1 even death, it re- n's natural prudence I, and thus to obtain ntered the country d to all whom they no account to mix ]uarrels which must and the wisdom of idly appreciated by i, the little band I need of from the at York Factory. le best of their way *ine-island Lake, in lakes by which they liver. They arrived id, after having tra- is of ten rivers and lany rocks, rapids, THK ' LAN])l-24 HTEBILISS.' 123 and portages, Messrs. Hood and Back making sketches as they went along. Now York Factory is situated in about 57° N. lat., and is therefore only a degree or two more northerly than the north of England; and ingoing to Cumberland House they had first to pass, for a little while, even more to the s uth : nor was it for some months to come that they reached a really high latitude. But Arctic weather and an Arctic climate are not, in vhe New World, confined within the boun- daries of the Arctic circle ; i. e. 23° south of the Pole. They, in fact, reign even down to about, on an average, 50° N. lat. : that is, fully to the south of James' Bay, which our readers will remember is the very southern part of Hudson's Bay. The Arctic lands thus alone — to say nothing of the seas beyond — embrace al)out 30° of latitude, and the most part of these lands are denominated by the Canadians ' landes stenles.^ It was, however, through their more southerly part that Franklin was for some months passing ; and yet, when speaking even of that part during the winter's journey, he says that the mercury of the thermometer actually froze in the bulb, so that they poidd not ascertain the state of the atmosphere. The rapid changes in the temperature are on another occasion recorded by his young companion. Hood, who tells us in his journal that on one day the thermometer was down to 15° below zero, and that the next it had risen to 60° above it. This was in the end of March, and in April it went up to 77° If 4 t I mmr 124 SIH JOHN FRANKLIN. in the shade, when the various water-fowl began to return, and tlie whole country was deluged by the sudden thaw. Then, he continues, ' the noise made by the frogs was almost incredible.' These reptiles seem to outlive even a hard winter, and after being frozen hard for a long time may be thawed and revived by warmth. This was an assertion which had previously been doubted, but various experiments have fully proved its truth, not only in tlie case of frogs but also in regard to some other animals. This is, indeed, just the region in which to study njiture in its primitive state. Tlie very crust of the earth seems to remain much the same as at the moment in which the globe assumed its present form ; on its shores there appear, amid the blocks of ice, the rough peaks of huge primeval rocks, which have been undermined by the force of the elements, in- termingled here and there with the entire skeletons of whales and other enormous creatures ; while scattered over the land there are numerous specimens of the animal creation, often peculiar to itself; and in the air are seen vast swarms of tiny creatures, whose stings in summer-time are said to constitute a plague to -vhich every other kind of hardship, even those of cold and hunger, must be allowed to yield the palm. But to proceed with our story. The little party met with the greatest kindness at Fort Cumberland ; and as tjie first idea was to make this their winter quarters, the governor began at once to enlarge his premises, in orucr to accom- modate them the better. aiN. water-fowl began to was deluged by the lies, ' the noiMe made ible.' These reptiles iter, aud after being may be thawed aud i an assertion which t various experiments t only in tlie case of t other animals, ion in which to study riie very crust of the the same as at the raed its present form ; id tlie blocks of ice, '^al rocks, which have of the elements, in- i the entire skeletons us creatures ; while ! numerous specimens uliarto itself; and in tiny creatures, whose to constitute a plague irdship, even those of ed to yield the palm, ry. he greatest kindness tlie first idea was to , the governor began 1, in orucr to accom- SNOW-SHOE8. 125 Thsse European forts are all very much alike, and consist generally of a little group of dwellings, enclosed in a palisade, in the midst of a desolate wilderness of ice, or of forests, or of desert lands. They contain each about a dozen men, some of whom have families; and their buLiess is to carry on the traffic in furs with the surrounding natives. But Franklin soon became convinced, by the in- formation which he collected, that some of his party ought to proceed at once to one of tl:e stations on the Athabaska Lake, and even, if possible, to the northward of the Great Slave Lake beyond, as it was found that only there could guides, hunters, and interpreters, be obtained. Ever ready to take the hardest work himself, he arranged to proceed on this journey with Mr. Back »■ = Hepburn, while Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Hood remained wliere they were until the spring, collecting specimens and making drawings and scientific observations. It was on the 19th of January that they set out from Cumberland Fort for Chipewyan, a station on the north-western extremity of Atliabaska Lake, having been provided by Governor V'illiama witl» two sledges and provisions for fifteen days. Tlie distance to be traversed was 857 miles ; and the snow at tliis season was so deep that, even in their snow-shoes, they were obliged to keep to tlie fioisen surface of rivers and lakes whenever it was necessary to go on foot. These snow-shoes, although necessary, cause all travellers much suffering, and more especially j; Jit 12() SI11J<;HN FRANKLIN. those vvlio iiri' iinc'iecustomod t" iliem. The frame- work is formed of two parallel bars of wood, joined together hy transverse bars, those over the instep being curved to admit the foot; each shoe or raqueUe weighs two or tluee pounds, and they vary in length from four to six feet. To use them at first, without falling is, therefore, very difficult ; and once down, it is no easy matter to get up again without help. Mr. Hood, after onee trying them, described the misery whicli they produce as so great that ' no object will divert' the mind of the wearer * from his own agonizing sensation^,',' He says tliat ' he feels his fVanie crushed by unaccoimtable pressure, he drags a galling and stubborn weight at his feet, and his track is marked by blood.' The travellers' other clothing was, however, more comfortable. A large c«pe, furnished with a hood to protect the head and neck from the snow, covered their shoidders; leathern trousers and mo- cassins of elk-skin the legs; and over all came a large fur mantle, confined round the waist by a belt, to which was attached a bottle, a knife, and a hatchet. Thus equipped they travelled on by day, and at night thought themselves happy if they could meet with a patch «f fir-trees, in the centre of which they could encamp. On their way they met from time to time with various parties of Indians — the Chipewyan, the Cree, and the Stone Indians; the latter being the LIN. lliem. The frame- bars of wood, joined lose over the instep oot ; eacli shoe or >undR, and tliey vary t. To use them at , very difficult ; and er to get up again tliem, described tlie so great that * no he wearer * from his says tliafc ' he feels intable pressure, he sight at his feet, and ling was, liowever, )e, fuiTiished with a eck from the snow, n trousers and mo- [1(1 over all came a nd the waist by a ottle, a knife, and a A on by day, and at f if they could meet centre of which they I time to time with lie Chipewyan, the he latter being the AKAITCilo. 127 most prepossessing in apiKmrunce, but ' addicted to stealing whatever tliey can,' especiully horses, which tiicy declare to have been iul ended as comniou property. It wan the end of March when they reached Fort Chipewyan, one of the most ancient and important of these isolated posts; and here, in July, they were joined by Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood. Mt^an- time Franklin had been holding communication with other stations, and had arranged to receive two interpreters on their arrival at Great Slave Lake. Sixteen Canadian voyageurs an Indians, and their •t Providence, found with whom he re- nt, aad wliose long Btus and Francis, swyan, and did not le 17th of March, 1 snow-shoes more slight covering at HACK H JOlfRNKV. 131 night, and often spending days together without food. The Indians who accompanied him were happily his very good friends, and most generously refused at times to taste the fish or birds which they catight ; saying, ' We are accustomed to starvation, and you are not.' • One of our men,' he relates, « caught a fish, which, with the addition of some weed scraped from the rocks, called tripe dee roches, made us a very tolerable supper . . . While we were eating it, I perceived one of the women busily scraping an old skin, with the contents of which her husband presented us. This consisted chiefly of pounded meat, fat, and a greater proportion of Indian's and deer's hair, than either ; and though such a mixture may not appear very alluring to an English stomach, it was thought a great luxury, after three days' privation in these cheerless regions.' On one occasion, when the Indians and their wives complained of illness and want of rest. Back served out to them a flagon of mixed spirits, and enjoyed the spectacle of their happiness ; for they had won his esteem, not only by their generous kindness towards himself, but by the affection which they manifested towards their wives and children. During this journey Back had many narrow escapes : falling once through the ice, and another time feeling it bend under him so much that he had to run at his full speed to get off before it gave \ ay. n isa HIU JOHN ntANKUN. Oil the wliiiUt, indued, tliiM journey k one uf the niutit reinarkahh) on record. Meantime, at Fort Enterprisn the anxietien and MufferingH of \m companionH hod l)een hy no means inconHiderubU). ». A good quantity of fish had been taken in the season, hut by tlie 5th of November tlje fiHhing had quite failed, and was given up. Tlie houMe, however, liad been finialied Home days Iniforo; but on the name day, unfortunately, Akaitcho and hib hunters came in, forty souls in all, who expected to l)o provided for. One of the voyagours who started with Back was tlie first to cheer them by his return. He came iu crustt^d f)ver with ice, but brought letters from Eng- land, and some news of the provisions ; which had, however, it appeared, by some mistake, gone astray : so that another party had to be sent out to ussiat in bringing them in. At length Akaitcho and his people were induced f-) leave the camp once more, as there was no possi- bility of feeding them ; but he insisted on leaving behind his wife and daughter, and some other women, to bo taken care of. The daughter was looked upon as the belle of the tribe, and was named Green Stockings. Though only sixteen, she had had two husbands; and her mother, who wanted hev as a nurse, did not altogether approve of her portrait being taken by Mr. Hood, fearing that the • Great Chief in England might send for her. The party lived chiefly on pemmican ; that is. i i iwiiwmrj i > )'§Msm iSBewMaaagggiar I.IN. ly k on(« uf tliu luuiit go tho nnxiotieii nnd A l>uen l>y no ineana tl been taken in the ibor tilt! fiHliin^ hud been finiHlied Home (hiy, unfortunately, in, forty houIh in nil, arted with Back whh Bturn. He camn iu ht letters from Enj?- )vi8iona; which had, listake, gone astray : Hent out to UHHiat in people were induced 3 there was no possi- insisted on leaving d some other women, ter was looked upon was named Green !n, she had had two 10 wanted hev as a •ove of her portrait ing that the < Great for her. oemmican ; that is. TIIK AIMIOItA IIOUKALIH. 133 the fleHh of the rein-deer kneiided up info n kind of piiHte with flit: they hail no vegetabloB, and but little tloiir. Kaeli day they drank twice of tea without nugar, and on Sunday had a cup of ehocolut*'. For ten whole montliH were the party whut up here; but the officorH, we are tohl, generally found plenty of em- ployment in writing their journals, calculating their obMc>rvations, and finishing their druwingH. Tho aurora shone out fre(iuently with great brilliancy, and they took particular pains in Htudy- ing this remarkable phenomenon. Its influence on the magnet they established to be a fad , but could never assure thomwilves of the trtilli of the report that it is accompanieil by Strang noiseH. In the evening they joined the men in tlie hall, and took part in their games. Sunday was always kept in tho best way that was possible, and the woodmen bad to provide on Saturday for all that would be required, while Divine service was regularly performed ; at which the Canadians, though Romanists, and not well acquainted with English, always attended. Franklin regretted that he had not with him a French Prayer-book ; but he says that the Creed and the Lord's Prayer were always read to them in their own language. During their stay here, Hepburn became an ex- perienced soap and candle maker; and when this operation was going on no woman was allowed to come near the kettle, as it is considered a veiy ^ ■ 134 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. mysterious operation by the Canadians, and always supposed to fail if a woman is present. On the 1st day of the new year, 1821, an at- tempt was made at something like festivities; bu^ the provisions were very low, and they had no spirits to give the people. A fortnight aft«r, however, a large supply of food came down from Fort Provi- den(!ft ; but by the end of March they were regain so low that sometimes they had but one meal a-day. >(either hunting nor fishing produced anything at this season ; and the sufferings of the Indians, who crowded round the house, were terrible. Frank- lin says that he had often tried to persuade them to move to Akaitcho's lodge, but that the mo,- part of them were sick or infirm, and did not like to lose the daily medicines which Dr. Richardson gave them. They would clear away the snow to look for bones, deers' feet, bits of leather, and other offal ; and little did the English think when they saw them boiling those down that they would one day be reduced even to collect the very same bones from the dunghill. Things improved, however, when spring came and the rein-deer returned ; and now they b^an to think of the long journey down the Coppermine River to the coast, and ea8twu,fd. Before they l^ft, the Indian chief faithfully pio- mised that pro-.isions should be brought tc Fort En- terprise before next September, in case they should return that way ; and on the 4th June the first party, under Dr. Richardson, set off. Captain Franklin fol- -'■^ ^mmmm mms wim^^smmsm-L-. BP hJKLIN. ANTIPATHY BCTWEEN INDIANS AND ESQUIMAUX. 135 Cauadmns, and always I present. ew year, 1821, an ut- g like festivities; bu^ md they had no spirits ight aft«r, however, a own from Fort Provi- rch they were regain so but one meal a-day. ing produced anything irings of the Indians, , were terrible. Frank- jd to persuade them to that the mo.- part of d did not like to lose Dr. Hichardson gave ly the snow to look for ther, and other offai ; k when they saw them y would one day be rery same bones from r, when spring came md now they began to own the Coppermine 'u,fd. n chief faithfully pio- B brought tc Fort En- r, in case they should ;h June the first party. Captain Franklin fol- lowing on the 14th, with three canoes, each dragged by four men and two dogs. They all set out on foot, and with a very scanty store of provisions. The men who had to carry the canoes over the poi-tages had dreadfully fatiguing work, and many of them became lame ; so that at Point Lake one canoe v/as left behind. Franklin and two others fell through the ice in crossing a lake, but escaped unhurt; and by the end of the month they were all able to embark on the Copper- mine. Very soon now they expected to meet no longer Indians, but Esquimaux; and knowing the deadl; hatred that seems always to have existed between the two races, Franklin earnestly endeavoured to per- suade Akaitclio and his Indians to come to terms with them. This they promised to do, but it was evident that they greatly dreaded the meeting; and when he further proposed that, until he had himself come to a good understanding with them, they should remain in the background, they altogether declined, saying that they were not strong enough alone to encounter a surprise, and that they would travel with the English, or return as quickly as possible to their own more southerly country. On the other hand, they soon observed equal tokens of fear among the parties of Esquimaux, who all retired into their own solitudes at their approach, and on the 18th the Indians beat a retreat, promising to meet them at Fort Enterprise. Mr. Wentzel and four Canadians iai: ^"'•- '^%-^'r!-.:^,rt^;, ■r>f^-- 136 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. were also sent back next day to Slave Lake, in order to reduce their numbers ; and that he might forward despatches to England, and see that the Indians fid- filled their promise regarding the provisions. Before triis date, however, they had got a dis- tinct view of the sea, and had had good success in killing several musk oxen. These creatures abound in this part of the coun- Hunk Ox. try, and it is aaid that^ on being attacked, they herd closer together ; so that several are easily killed. According to their instructions, they searched care- fully for copper all along the course of the river, but only found a few pieces. On their arrival ai the rapid named by Heame ' the Bloody Falls,' from the dreadful conflict which he had there witnessed between the two native races. N. ave Lake, in order i he might forward at the Indians fid- provisions, ey liad got a dis- d good success in 8 part of the coun- EMBARKINO ON THE OCEAN. 137 attacked, they herd are easily killed. hey searched care- se of the river, but named by Heame Iful conflict which e two native races. they found that it abounded with excellent salmon, of which they caught forty in one net. The cascade is bounded on each side by walls of red sandstone, having lofty green hills on either side. On their arrival at the sea-coast some of the Canadian voyageurs, who liad never seen the sea be- fore, were at first amused, especially at sight of the seals swimming about ; but they soon began to trem- ble at the idea of a long polar voyage in two birch- bark canoes ; and Hepburn had to exert his powers of rhetoric to make them ashamed of their fears. The whole remaining party, amounting to but twenty, however, at length embarked. They had travelled from their winter quarters a distance of 334 miles, of which the canoes and baggage had been dragged over snow and ice 117; and now they had food but for fifteen days. On the 2l8t July the embarkation took place; and they paddled all day amidst a number of rocky islands, the water being little encumbered with ice, but very full of drift-wood. After proceeding thirty-seven miles, they en- camped just where the coast was covered with vege- tation, and found here some mussel-shells. Three groups of islands were named by them 'Berens,' ' Sir Graham Moore,' and ' Lawford.' Beyond, the coast was barren and dreary; but they came to the conclusion that all ice is there melted in the summer. Provisions were again running short, especially as two bags of pemmican had turned mouldy, and it 138 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. tlie beef was scarcely eatable ; and hitherto only one deer had been killed and three salmon-trout taken : 80, after passing the entrances of two bays, the hunters were senv ashore, and soon returned with two small deer and a brown bear. Of all the inleta and sounds which they passed as good charts as possible were made during their progress. One was named Arctic Sound ; another, Bathurst; and another, Melville; and the whole large gulf, in which all these inlets were, was called Coronation Gulf; and its extreme point, Cape Turn- again, l)eeauso they were now txilerably certain that this wn'h noblk (^onduci". 143 ff' only walk with a stick, and Dr. Richardson hatl, in addition to his weakness, fallen lame. On the 24th .September, however, five yoimg deer were killed, and this in some measure restored the spirits of the party. They asked for a day's rest, that they might quietly enjoy two substantial meals after an eight-days' fust, and so bo able to proceed more vigonmsly. On the 26th they reached a lake on a branch of the Coppermine River, and then began bitterly to lament their folly in destroying the canoes and floats ; and Rack, being still the most active and vigorous, was sent round with some of the hunters to the fort before the rest, who lost several days in trying to make a raft ; which, when at last finished, they had great difficulty in launching, and which, when laimched, they could not get to move for want of paddles, and because it was made of green wood. Yet they knew that they had no strength to go round the lake ; and Dr. Richardson, therefore, feeling that the lives of the party depended on the thing being done, nobly volunteered to swim across the stream with a line, by which the raft might be haided over. But the devoted man was too weak to bear either the exertion or the cold, and after many brave efforts, the party on shore, to their horror, saw him sink just as he had nearly gained the other side. They instantly hauled him back, and, though in an all but lifeless stat*, he revived on l)eing wrapped up in blankets and placed before a good fire ; but having l)een exposed to too great heat, the whole left ■i! .' •^BwwsiiiiWwiawiiis^^ mmmmm 144 8IH JDIIN FlUNKMN. Bide wab fouiul to have loHt Bennaticii : niul tliiH did not entirely rfitiini until tho next Hummer. Thera wu» nothing for it now hut to construct n canoe ; and they were reduced to thti hwt oxtrenuty of Bturvation hefoio this wuh arcomplis'ied. The Canadiuuf* Ixjcame utterly dei One «lay ' iviiig lieen out hunting, he returned, pretending to i.iive luwl no huccchh, ex- cept that he had found a dead wolf, of which he hod brought them a |»iul. They helievetl this at first ; hut many things afterwanlH led them to fear tliut it waH really a part of the body of one of hin unfor- tunate compuniouH whom he had probably nacri- ficed. They hod before suHpected that he han out liiinting, \ luwl no HiicwHH, ex- rnU, of which lu> hud ■lievcil thin at tirHt ; th(>m to fear thut it >f one of hiH unfor- had probably Hacri- [ that ))e had uome r, with this idea on I \h3 almoHt unfit for nable to resiHt any o means an enviable . RichardBon, havinj^- roches, leaving Mi. f with Michel, whoHe to Hhow a diabolical ■j of a gun, and soon illing him in great va« found lying lifo- ough hiti head ; and it of dcHpondeucy, he MK'IIKI, THK ,VMHAS.SIN. 147 had dt'Htrovi *l hiinnelf. Ihit, on ixiiniiniition, it waH (|iiite clear that the hidl ha«>«>n dlHcharged by hiniM'lf. Hepburn Inid neen Midul rining from jiint be- hind the piHir young man immediately aHer tie report ; and, in fact, hin whole deniennonr pointed him out OH the aHwiHMin. Kor the three next diiyM he kept alwavH on his j^uiinl, uwd tliri'utening lan- guage, and never h'ft IiIh coinpanionH together. \\v wiifl ulwayH arme by Hhooting him through the head with a piHtol. Had my own life alone been threatened, I would nut hav«' purcliaHed it by hucIi an act ; but I conwidered my- self as entrusted alno with the protection of Hep- burn, a man who, by his humane attention and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me, that 1 felt more anxiety for his life than my own.' After the arrival of these two survivors out of a party of seven or eight, two of the most faithfid Canadians expired of utter exhaustiim; and Frank- lin, Richardson, Hepburn, and one Canadian, re- mained alone for another whole week, hoping almost li:; iVi 148 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. i Hi lii! fit :i) liHii against hope for the supplies of which Back had gone in search. They were now so thin that to lie on the floor — for they had no beds — produced soreness of the body ; and so weak, that it was quite a toil to turn over. They seldom, however, spoke of their suffer- ings or of the prospect of relief: for their minds were too much weakened to dwell on such things. Sometimes they would read to each other, as they lay in bed, portions of some religious books, with which a lady had provided them before leaving Lon- don, one of which, Bickersteth's ' Scripture Help,' poor Hood had had lying open before him at the moment of his death ; and the morning and evening services were never omitted. Sometimes, also, they would converse on religious subjects; but in the daytime they commonly spoke oiily of ordinary matters, as though nothing were amiss. In fact, each one thought the intellect of the other weakened, and that they had need of forbearance and advice, al- though it was only in a measure that they perceived this in themselvos. They were fretful and pettish, too, in spite of themselves; and so conscious was Hepburn of this, that he once exclaimed, — 'Dear me, if we are spared to return to England, I wonder if we shall recover our understandings ! ' At length, on the 7th of November, the long- expected relief arrived from Back, forwavded by three Indians, whose after-care for them, in cooking for them, and tending them, would, says Franklin, ' have done honour to the most civilized people.' !!! ill ■iltt NKLIN. BS of which Back had lat. to lie on the floor — iduced soreness of the iras quite a toil to turti r, spoke of their siiffer- relief: for their minds dwell on such things, to each other, as they B religious books, with lem before leaving Lon- Bth's 'Scripture Help,' ipen before him at the le morning and evening Sometimes, also, they 1 subjects ; but in the )oke only of ordinary ere amiss. In fact, each ;he other weakened, and jarance and advice, al- 3ure that they perceived rere fretful and pettish, ; and so conscious was ince exclaimed, — 'Dear ^n to England, I wonder rstandings ! ' )f November, the long- m Back, forwavded by are for them, in cooking m, would, says Franklin, nost civilized people.' SAVED BY BACK S SUPPLIES. 149 With the greatest caution against repletion, they now gradually recovered ; and on receiving a note from Back on the 12th, that he was about to proceed to Fort Providence, they hastened to follow him; but Dr. Richardson was so reduced that they were only able to proceed slowly. At Moose-deer Lake the two companies n>et again, and obtaining now the requisite means of travelling, they passed from station to station, and at length reached York Fac- tory in safety, having travelled in all 5559 miles ; and endured, with almost unparalleled bravery, an amount of hardship and suffering wliich very few have had to encounter. On their arrival in England they found that during their absence Fianklin had been raised to the rank of Captain; Back and Hood to that of Lieutenant ; and that Hepburn had been appointed to a comfortable position in one of the dockyards. 'I.I 150 CHAPTER VIII. SIR EDWARD PARRY .S SECOND VOYAGE. |;f ■ When Commander Parry returned home from Mel- ville Island in 1820, he was certainly not aware that he had discovered the most important part of the North-west Passage ; and that, had he been able to persevere in his course, he would have enjoyed all the honour, in which Captain M'Clure afterwards so justly claimed a share. He was, however, still fully persuaded that such a passage did exist ; but thought that it must be sought by way of Hudson's, instead of Baffin's Bay ; and the parts which he indicated were the channel on the west of Southampton Island, called Sir Thomas Rowe's Welcome, on the bay just west of that known as Repulse Bay, where, a few 3'ear8 before Hearne's land journey, Middleton's at- tempt had been defeated. And as his opinion had now great weight at the Admiralty, he was almost immediately appointed to explore those seas, beiiig made commander of the 'Fury' bomb; while Lieu- tenant Lyon, who had recently distinguished Inmself in Africa, was appointed to his old favourite, the ' Hecla,' and promoted to the rank of commander. JOHN GORDON. 151 )ND VOYAGE. d home from Mel- linly not, aware that )ortant part of the ad he been able to d have enjoyed all Clure afterwards so however, still fully exist ; but thought if Hudson's, instead nrhich he indicated outhampton Island, come, on the bay ie Bay, where, a few ey, Middleton's at- as his opinion had dty, he was almost e those eeas, being bomb ; while Lieu- stinguished Iiimself old favourite, the ank of commander. His former able companion, Captain Sabine, did not rtccorapany him ; but was soon after despatched with Commander Clavering on a voyage to Spitsbergen, in the slow-sailing 'Griper;' on board of which he made a ' series of experiments to determine the figure of the earth, by means of the pendulum vibrating seconds in different latitudes:' to which observations he had eagerly devoted himself on his return from North Georgia. And though Parry, no doubt, re- gretted the loss of so scientific an assistant, he must have gladly changed the vessel which carried him for the 'gallant bomb' 'Fury.' The ' Griper' was also again employed, in 1824, on much the same service as that on which Parry was now to be engaged, ^t was then commanded by Cap- tain Lyon ; but we shall not find space for an account of either of these two voyages. The ' Fury' and ' Hecla' were found, to Parry's great satisfaction, to be of very equal powers : and many of his old officers and men again gladly accom- panied him. The voyage across the Atlantic was an ordinary one, with the exception of one melancholy incident, which happened as the ships were sailing down the Thames. In manning the ' Fury,' Parry had gladly wel- comed back John Gordon, one of his old seamen ; a fine, tall, powerful man, and one always Called for in any case requiring unusual strength and activity, fhis man had, during the long winter spent at Mel- ville Isle, received such benefit from the instruction 'XI- 152 SIR EDWABIJ PARRY. 5 1 given on board, that from a reckless, Hwearing fellow, he had become an entirely altered man, and great benefit was now anticipated from his example. • It was just off Gravesend,' says Parry, ' that Gordon was sent in a boat one morning to lay a kedge-anchor. In throwing the anchor out of the boat, one of the flukes caught the gunwale, bringing it to the water's edge. The tide runnintr strong, Gordon saw that the boat mnst be swamped, and the crew greatly endangered, if the aiHjhor were not in- stantly released. He flew from the st^rn-sheets past the other men, and, by the utmost effort of his own muscular power, lifted the anchor ckar ; just in time to save the boat. But, in so doing, he neglected his own personal safety. As the anchor ran round, the bight of the hawser got round his body, and dragged him out of the boat : and we have never seen John Gordon from that moment to this. I cannot de- scribe the sensation this melancholy catastrophe oc- casioned in the ship ; for Gordon was respected and beloved by all.' No wonder that the ardent commander should Boon after write to his parents:—* I can safely say I never felt m strongly the vanity, uncertainty, and comparative unimportance of everything this world can give, and the paramount necessity of preparation for another and better life than this.' But we must hasten on. Near the mouth of Hudson's Straits th< icebergs began to beset their course: and here the 'Kautilua' transport, which had accompanied them with prol IRY. less, Hwearing fellow, red man, and great m his example. Bays Parry, ' that i morning to lay a i anchor out of the e gunwale, bringing de running strong, e swamped, and the tuchor were not in- be stern-sheets past mt effort of his own ■ clear ; just in time !ig, he neglected his jhor ran round, the body, and dragged re never seen John lis. I cannot de- loly catastrophe oc- was respected and commander should — * I can safely say y, uncertainty, and jrything this world Bsity of preparation lis.' straits th< icebergs lere the 'Kautilus' id them with pro- KXAMINATION OF THE COAST. 153 It visions, took her leave, and returned home with tln^ last despatches. The passage-through the strait was slow and dif- ficult; but aa 8(1' )n as they neared the land they met with some of a tribe of Esquimaux, who for about a century had held yearly intercourse with the English ships, and so learnt European vices, without gaining any knowledge, either of our civilization or of Ch'-'s- tianity. The habits of these people were so extremely filthy and disgusting tliat the men gave them no en- couragement. On approaching Southampton Island, it was an anxious point to settle whether to make their way to Kepulse Bay by the north or south of it. To go round the south was a -long business ; and yet be- tween the island and the bay, on the north, there lay a passage which Mtddleton had called Frozen Strait ; and supposing that this y,ere found as he described it, much time might be lost in making a fruitless attempt'. This, however, was the course at last decided on ; and though much hindered by the floating masses of ice, by rocks and islands, the strait was at length passed, and the bay 'unconsciously entered,' and as no ice was found there they were able tho- roughly to investigate the shores, and so to arrive at the decided conclusion that no passage existed there. To proceed with the examination of the north coast of the continent according to his instructions was, therefore, Parry's next care ; and most diligently was evety little inlet surveyed. Beyond Kepulse '"Jl^ ^. rfiiiiiigiiiifii^^ 164 am EDWAUD PARRY. Bay another was found, which was named after Commander Lyon, But multitudes of amall islands obstructed their course; and the exn-rilnation of this piece of coast was so tedious as to occupy a month. The season for navigation was rapidly drawing to a olose, and the sea so quickly becoming covered with young ice, that it was evident that no time must be lost in seeking winter quarters. On the southern coast of a small island, at the entrance of Lyon's inlet, these were found ; and no sooner was a canal sawed through the ice, and the ships moved into their proper places, than they were fast frozen in. It is unnecessary again to recount the various measures adopted for the health and comfort of the men. We need only say, that ail that was tried on the last occasion was repeated on this, with many additions and improvements. A large quantity of antiscorbutics had been brought from England, and were freely used; and besides mustard and cress being grown in con- siderable quantities in boxes on board ship, the crews were not wholly destitute of vegetables ; while the ships were kept much warmer than on the former voyage by means of Sylvester's stoves. A very large and excellent magic-lantern, which had been presented to them by a lady, aflforded the men much entertainment; and in addition to their other amusements they were often treated to a concert, got up by the officers, several of whom. ijjill BY. I was named after ids obfltructed their this piece of coast ith. us rapidly drawing y becoming covered t that no time must On the southern entrance of Lyon's sooner was a canal ships moved into re fast frozen in. recount the various and comfort of the il that was tried on )n this, with many !orbutics had been e freely used ; and ng grown in con- n board ship, the ite of vegetables ; luch warmer than ans of Sylvester's lagic-luntern, which y a lady, afforded and in addition io J often treated to a several of whom. .% VISITS FROM ESQUIMArX. 155 including I'arry himself, • ere very respectable per- formers on various musical instruments. But, besides these, regular employment was provided for several evenings in the week, V>y the establishment on the lower decks of each ship of a school for teaching reading and writing; and this was so highly valued, and so diligently used by them, that when they returned home 'there was not a man on board who could not read his Bible.' Their position hero was, however, really not so isolated as it had been at Winter Harbour; for during a part of the time they had constant inter- course with some Esquimaiix, and those of a very superior class, more simple and more in^^eresting than those they had met on their voyage. They were perfectly orderly and quiet, and at their first visit approached the ships only with a few blades of whalebone, which were intended jis a peace offering. The women were well-dressed in clothes made of the skin of deer ; and, to the great surprise of the officers, they immediately began to strip, although the temperature was then at 2.3° below zero. But it was soon discovered that they ha!i4U;: of the north. \.y air ' ade, and made correctly and wfU, in the space or .i . nv hoars, although they couHist of several apartments. With much curiosity the visitors entered one of these huts, and found inside snow beaten into bed- steads covered with skins, and fireplaces constructed in the same way, as well as various other articles of furniture ; while the whole was lighted by windows of ice. A large bone was fix«d across tlie ceiling, to which was suspended a stone lamp : and this the captain desired to purchasew So the good housewife took it down and emptied out the oil, as that was net included in the purchase; but as a little was left round the sides, and she had no mind to lose any, she wiped it round several times with her apron, and finished by giving it a final lick with her tongue. An almost daily intercourse with these poor people proved a most agreeable interruption to the dreary solitude of both parties ; and the many good qualities of the savages gained them great favour with their visitors. They were not only perfectly orderly and honest in their dealing with the crews, but also amiable and good-humoured in a remark- able degree. Everything seemed to please aud amuse then, ; lUY. <*■< other tribe8, but of ad built up, strange o that t\te arch and there has been so among these wild )rrectly and wll, in ugh they couHist of itora entered one of ow beaten into bed- replaces constnicted »us other articles of lighted by windows cross the ceiling, to arap: and this the the good housewife' the oil, as that wan it as a little was left 9 mind to lose any, with her apron, and nth her tongue. B with these poor interruption to the and the many good them gpreat favour not only perfe«jtly ing with the crews, >ured in a remark- aud amuse then . ; HH fiBililiffi'llilililllilfl 'il 1 <"I^^^H 1 JHHHP^Hnhi |HHh :W. lifli l^m B^ffiHnlHi ^"""^-^ k^Bi - iSf* 4,3^! inupwii n»iiiiii|iiHHPBJrniiii8Ww r. :^'^ **^- .-^mi mmmsm i • Mill i mOMCK. 1.-59 and tlie Buiind of the orjjmi uiid MAU- neiit them ulnuwt wild with delight. Many of tliu woinon posHCHBed exceUfiit vuia^H, uiid wt-m fond of Hinjj[in^; and OHM n pai ticidnr, of whoiM Parry had nujiitHtiHi a song, di»played not only a Hoft voice, but, alHo a fine ear for music. This woman, wluige name was Iligliuk, was, however, a remarkabh* peraou altogether, and would have distinguished herself in any society, with a very small amount of instruction. She was an excellent sompstresB, and particularly neat and clean in all her work ; and instead ot staring stupidly at whatever was new to her in English inventions, like the rest of her companions, she always appeared anxious to find out how and why things were done. In fact, she Hoon became a general favourite on board the vessels, where with her husband, Okotook, she was a frecpieut visitor, and where she was regarde«J with even a certain degree of respect. It was remarked in the dealings with this tribe that they were scnipidously honest, and that they would neither steal nor beg any of the many articles that must have been a great temptation to them. On one occasion two dogs, which had been pur- chased by some of th« 'Hecla's' officers, made their escape; but the next day when the Esquimaux had left the ship the same animals were found tied up carefully on board. Iligliuk was also very careful not only to keep her word, but indignant if she were supposed to have failed in her promise. Parry 8'ii miimmmmmmmmmm ino Hill KhWAlin PAUUV. K 1 ' 11 relaUw thitt hIic onco proniiHod to cover for )iim n little model of a caxuw, but tlmt throu|{h Hoiru! inin- take he Hiippow?d tlmt hIio hail not done ho, and charged her with the failure. He could not unr- ; HO b)h) wnit«d until 1 the room, when hIio iM)kJnj{ stciulfuMtly in liavinjj cxi'cutcHl her re (piiet in her countenance, from u breach of ip.lel!igeneo of Ili);- liat from her Home ection of tht^ coant d l)efore her Heveral to her the direction it n pencil into her tlie coast an fiu- as lod his meaning and aming the principal e slieet after another )zen were filled, the itenso anxiety, and ng the coast short ards to the south- corner of America, verified ; and to her, THK IX)HK OK MKDIcrNK, 161 therefore, in a great measure, iu due, as Harrow says, the merit of the discov.-ry of this Kne of coast. Her son, Toolooak, sjems to have inherited his mother's talentH, and would sit in the eul.in of the ' Fury' for an hour or two at a time, (piietly drawing animals. I'arry invited him to return to England with him; hut he repeated, •iV^ao,'— No — a dozen times over with great empiinsis, saying besiiles, that ' if he went away his father would cry.' In thest) strong natural feelings he also resembled his mother, who had shown the greatest concern on one occasion when her husband was ill, sitting by him for hours with her hair dishevelled, and never taking her eyes off him. Okotook then, for the fiwt time in his life, took a dose of medicine. He drank it in fear and trem- bling, « holding on to his wife by his other hand, and she on to him with both of hers, as if tin y expected an explosion.' Poor Iligliuk's head, however, got turmni with the attention that she received, and Ijy April she was a very different person from what she had been in February, The lot of these poor outcasts of the human race is, at best, a very hard one. They depend for sub- sistence, during the months of March, April, and May, on the capture of the seal and walrus, and are frequently in a state of starvation. The hunts for these animals are attended by many dangers, and in particular the bears are found to be very fornddable rivals, as they love seals' flesh quite as well as do the Esquimaux. 'I •I. JWIMiiiHM MHiiilBI'" I#i Mi's ■' i|! 162 SIR EDWARD PARRY. A poor fellow was once most unpleasantly dis- turbed while endeavouring to secure a seal which had been entangled in his net. He received a violent slap on the back, which he supposed to have been given by his companion, until, on its being repeated, he turned and beheld, to his extreme horror, a grim old bear, which instantly took possession of the prize, while the man decamped as quickly as he could. Esquimaux Soal-hunter disturbed by a Bcwr. Many of the poor creatures would have perished but for the supplies which they received from the ships ; yet, even in this state, they were marveUously good-humoured. Curious, indeed, are their tastes regarding food. We are told that, on one occasion, when the com- mander wished for a portrait of the prettiest woman PARRY. most unpleasantly dis- secure a seal which had e received a violent slap ised to have been given its being repeated, he reTiie horror, a grim old possession of the prize, I quickly as he could. (listurbed by a Bear. ires would have perished they received from the e, they were marvellously jir tastes regarding food, occasion, when the com- it of the prettiest woman TASTES OF THE ESQUIMAUX. 163 in the tribe, he could lind no present so acceptable for herself and her husband as a packet of candles, which they ate with avidity; though he had the po- liteness to draw the wicks out of the lady's mouth whilst she swallowed the tallow. An intelligent young man, named Ayoakitt, had been invited by Lyon to dine with him, shown how to use his knife and fork, and taught to wipe his mouth before drinking. Afterwards he was con- ducted to wH^h his face and hands ; and so anxious did he appear afterwards to possess the cake of Windsor soap, that Lyon presented it to him : when, to his utter amazement, Ayonkitt swallowed it, as if it had been a sugar-plum. They are generally very improvident ; but a few of the most careful make a little pemmican. Early in April they began to migrate westward, and by the end of May the whole tribe were ready to depart. They then received from the commander such presents as produced in them the liveliest gra- titude, which the women evinced by * immoderate, and even hysterical, fits of laughter ;' and then they took their leave by giving three hearty cheers. After a residence of nine months in what they had named Winter Island, sickness began to visit the crews of the 'Fury' and 'Hecla,' and three deaths occurred among the men. It was not until July that the vessels were able to put to sea : and both had very narrow escapes soon after starting from the pressure of heavy floods of ice, borne down upon them from the north. i'l* i; 164 SIR EDWARD PARRY. Oa the 12th of July, however, they came to the mouth of a beautiful freshwater river, named by them Barrow River ; and here they anchored for a while, that parties might be sent off in boats to enjoy the luxury of a visit to its banks. These, which were sloping by the water's side, rose afterwards to a considerable height. A splendid mountain cataract added greatly to the scenery, which was most sub- lime, and the vegetation rich and luxuriant ; while, to heighten all, the sun was shining biightlj in a cloudless sky, and several rein-deer w^re grazing peacefully beside the stream. A pleasant run of fifty miles succeeded t ii |i # » tM tf f » i | > | ii^ j i-lio had the fullest confidence in his judgment and expericr'^e, again placed the two vesselH — « F'uiy' and 'Hecia' — at his service. He chose the latter as his own ship ; while Com- mander Hoppner, who had served with him as Lieu- tenant in the ' Alexander,' as well as in his last two voyages, —a* placed in command of the ' Fury.' They °ailed from the Nor^ on the 19th of May, lbi4, and in a month'iS time fell in with the ice in Davis's Strait, where an instance of Parry's presence of mind and coolness in danger occiared. It was on a Sundaj' morning, and, as usual, all the ship's company were mustered for Divine Service, which he was conducting ; when near the cowclusion of the sermon which he wa.-s reading, the quarter- master came hastily from the hatchway, and whis- rARRY S PllESENCE OF MIND. 169 PEDITION, AND HIS B. ;s illness almost im- yet by the spring of • for another voyage ; ,t the wisest way now mpt on Regent's In- fullest confidence in sfain placed the two at his service, 'n ship ; while Com- d with him as Lieu- ?11 as in his last two I of the ' Fury.' n the 19th of May, 1 in with the ice in ! of Parry's presence )ccia'red. ?, and, as usual, all d for Divine Service, near the cottclusion ading, the quarter- latchway, and whis- pered a few hurried words in his ear. Parry, without exliibiting any signs of emotion, asked some ques- tions in a low tone, and bade him return to his post. He then re-opened his book and continued his sermon, as though nothing had occuiTed; concluding with the blessing. Theu raising his hand he said, — 'Now my lads, all hands on deck — but mind, no bustle.' A mist, which had been hanging over them, had suddenly cleared, and land was seen just ahead ; and the Captain, who, from the quartermaster's report, had judged the danger not immediate, now took his post^ and issued the nealful orders for altering the ship's course. . * We knew we could trust nim,' said one of his own seamen. It will be unnecessary to describe again all the difficulties of this, the first part of the voyage. Suf- fice it to say, that not until the 27th of September had they fairly rounded the north-east comer of Prince Regent's Inlet. Here, our readers will remember, they were stopped by a barrier of ice in 1819; and here also they had, for the first time, found their compasses perfectly useless. Had they, on this second occasion, arrived some weeks earlier, they might probably have sailed south- wards, down the inlet, and wintere*! on the American Continent; but the delays in that tedious passage across Baffin's Bay and through I^ancaster Sound are unavoidable ; and as the season was now past, they had at once to look out for winter quarters. 170 SIR EDWARD PARRV. These they found at 'Port Bowen, a convenient harbour on the east coast of the inlet.' One long period of isolation at Winter Harbour, Melville Island, another at Winter Island, off Lyon's Inlet, and a third at Igloolik, had given them a pretty good idea of what to do and what to expect. But this fourth winter was the most trying of all ; for, being on old ground, they had neither the novelty of place or of situation to help them on. Here, too, were no Esquimaux, and no animals ; so that all resources must come from within them- selves ; and every conceivable device had to be re- sorted to in order to amuse the men; Rational occupation, however, was even more necessary than amusement ; and was felt by all to be so. The schools were, therefore, again re-com- menced, and were so thoroughly appreciated that all the ships' company took part in them ; 'making the whole,' says Parry, * such a scene of quiet occupation as I never before witnessed on board a ship. These schools were placed under the superintendence of Mr. Hooper, purser of the *Hecla,' in whose own words we have an account of the good effects of that aeld on Sunda^^ evenings. He writes in his journal as follows : — 'I have boen, this evening, gratified beyond measure by the conduct of my school. We assembled as usual, and Captain Parry read to us an excellent sermon. We then read over three or four times the second lesson for the day ; and I expounded it to the best of my ability. After this we went to prayers, and having RV. owen, a convenient Qlet.' it Winter Harbour, ;r Island, off Lyon's had given them a and what to expect, most trying of all ; neither the novelty em on. IX, and no animals ; from within thera- jvice had to be re- he men; Rational lore necessary than be 80. re, again re-com- y appreciated that them; 'making the of quiet occupation ard a ship. These superintendence of cla,' in whose own good effects of that Follows : — 'I have md measure by the abled as iisual, and llent sermon. We IS the second lesson to the best of my rayers, and having SUCCESS OF THE EVENING SCHOOLS. 171 closed, I wished them good night as uaual, when my friend John Darke (one of tlie 'Hecla's' seamen) said he wished to say a few words. He then went back to his knees, and in a few simple but affecting words returned thanks for the blessing enjoyeanklin'8 journey. The variation of the magnetic needle was foimd to have increased since their first visit, and a regular system of hourly experiments on the magnetic intensity was instituted. Lunar observations for the longitude, and ob- servations for the latitude by the sun and stars, were constantly going on ; and these things fully occupied their time. The re-appearance of the sun was also an event anxiously looked forwar4 to as soon aa January had passed away; but it was not until February 22nd that he was seen at the ships, though a glimpse of him had been obtained many days earlier from the top of high ground. But even then, for a long time, he was only seen, aud not felt ; nor was it until the 1 1th of April that the thermometer rose above zero. To occupy the time that must yet intervene be- fore the ships were released, parties were sent out in several directions to explore : and as soon as the ice mmssmmM RRY. iree ' uttered an ex- f a bright ray of th« rd from the general could not be received, there was no i: i Hi i; il; .1 ' 'ii« 174 SIR EDWARD PARRY. poHsible ftlternativei and thus ended Captain Parry'i third and hist attempt in Bearcb of a north-west pasHage. Ho had diflcovered many northern lands, had found out that many things could not be done, and BO spared his successors much fruitless labour, and left them but to find out the one connecting link ; but he was not suffered to achieve the whole. We have seen, however, how to some of those under his care the time spent had been far from lost; and the same thing may be not less truly said of himself. Parry's hojne-ties hud been very strong ones; and one of these he had found broken on his return from Igloolik, where the news of his father's death had been communicattd to him. This had made a deep impression, and had caused him to look more deeply into the grounds of his own faith. Alone, com- paratively, at Port Bowen, or at least shut out from the outer world, and forced into a long retirement, the thought of that eternity on which his father had now entered, and to which every passing day was bringing himself nearer, pressed deeply upon his mind ; and the question, of ' How a sinful man can be just with God ?' presented itself as one that could not be satisfactorily answered by any general stsite- ment about the mercy of God. From his youth up he may be said to have been ♦ a devout man.' To do God's will, and to suffer it aJso patiently, seems to have been his great aim ; but the knowledge of that will had been hitherto but - jdmmmm r ''^^ji flRY. idcd Captain Party's rcli of a north-west aorthem lands, had Id not be don«>, and fruitless labour, and >ne connecting link ; lievo the whole. m to some of those had been far from e not less truly said very strong ones ; jroken on his return lis father's death had lis had made a deep to look more deeply iiith. Alone, corn- least shut out from ) a long retiremnnt, vhich his father had ry passing day was d deeply upon his »w a sinful man can elf as one that could r any general state- 6 said to have been ?ill, and to suffer it een his great aim ; id been hitherto but / r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) , "v. v.. \ I >..'. ?*./ f i 1.0 UilM |25 m ^^ ■■■ 2.0 IB Kt U 1.1 ^ 114 L25 iu a 1.6 tf % m ■i fn ii i ir uM Hiotografiiic Sdaioes Corporation 23 WtST MAIN STRHT WiBSTn,N.Y. 145M (716)S7a-4S03 (Jiiiii«irt J 1 4^ i \ : r; CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques .w »-iw w »?« » 'it a'w>^ i wW iiWi>i V* i p '' ' i w i»if 'ww «w B iiW i' i' r '^ --■■^ I ■ l iy i il llll| pl!l, ll IWUmy i U WMHilMWI W I '*'! I : CHANGE IN RELIGIOUS VIEWS. 175 very imperfectly comprehended by him. He had read his Bible, and thought of Christ's love only in that general way that too many do ; but now that his mind was thus exercised, he, as well as his men, found a good friend in Mr. Hooper. A close friend- ship was formed between them, and many were the conversations held between them on these all-im- portant topics. Mr. Hooper himself, in his private journal, notices the change which was taking place in the views of his ' esteemed friend,' and the delightful hours passed in his company, but does not appear aware how helpful his own counsels had proved. A regular study of the New Testament seems, how- ever, to have been the means to which Parry himself attributed this change, more than to anything else. ' The entrance of Thy words giveth light,' he wrote, in allusion to his own state of mind ; and this light showed him one great mistake into which he had hitherto fallen, namely, that of applying the promises of God indiscriminately, and without considering that they are given only to those who have put on Christ, and entered on the narrow way by the * strait gate,' and that alone. Naturally, therefore, his zeal for the spiritual welfare of his men assumed henceforth a deeper character than it had borne before; nor were his efforts suffered to be in vain. Of this one interest- ing proof, among many others, was given in a letter received by Mr. Hooper from one of the seamen, John Darke, in which he spoke of him and the Captain as t 111 I 1 176 SIR EDWARD PARRY. ♦ the means of saving his soul,' and begged to know how he might send tliem lOL, to be appropriated to any good object of which they might approve, as a thank-offering for the good he had received on board the * Hecla.' Although once more unsuccessful in this his third Arctic voyage. Parry, on his return home, re- ceived fresh honours in testimony of his brave and indefatigable eflforts, and in acknowledgment of the services really rendered to his country by the ex- tensive geographical discoveries which he had made. But he went home also to begin that manly career as a Christian philac^hropist which has rendered his name familiar to many who might scarcely have heard of it in connexion with naval enterprise. This did not, perhaps, gain him any additional favour among some of his old patrons; indeed he himself tells us that it brought on him many a sneer. But he would have been the last 'man to shrink from * nailing his colours to the mast ;' and although some share of ridicule was to be espected, yet Parry's professional character stood too high to allow of any man of sense being easily prejudiced against him. Nor was his own professional enthusiasm one whit less than it had ever been. He longed to be out again on some other service, and if unsuccessful in the north-west, he would try the North Pole itself: not, indeed, with the same view, for to find a passage that way does not seem to have been his object. But the magnetic experiments which he 4'*-?i.'i*jJ?'''t*?j"**Vi'* =«'p**5«'p* *^ii^«''a^'^^'^**.sc:^M?*iah^j.fiS3iwi^ ' \RRY. ,' and begged to know to be appropriated to might approve, as a he had received on I uccessful in this his his return home, re- lony of his brave and iknowledgment of the 8 country by the ex- s i^hich he had made. !gin that manly career which has rendered 10 might scarcely have laval enterprise, in him any additional id patrons; indeed he ght on him many a been the last 'man to )urs to the mast ;' and le was to be expected, iter stood too high to Bing easily prejudiced ional enthusiasm one jen. He longed to be e, and if unsuccessful . try the North Pole lame view, for to find sem to have been his xperimonts which he ■'f^imi^^f^i^--. SI.EDaE-BOATS. 177 had witnessed, and in which he had himself assisted, interested him deeply, and he now strongly desired to follow these out at the Pole itself. True, Captain Phipps had failed, and so had Huchan and Franklin. But then, in the accounts of both voyages, mention had been made of large 'fields of ice, free from either fissure or hummock,' which a conch might have driven over many leagues in a direct line, without obstruction or danger; and in sledge-borno boats Captain Parry now proposed to proceed beyond the point where a large vessel could sail. A most daring proposition it was, without doubt ; yet Parry was not the man rashly and use- lessly to risk the lives of those under his command ; and some time before the plan had been started by his friend Franklin, now absent on another Arctic expedition. Both thought the experiment worth trying; and, in accordance with the opinions of both, Parry was once more appointed to his favourite * Hecla,' with instructions to proceed in her as far as Spitzbergen, there to leave her in some safe harbour in c)>arge of one of the officers, while he and his men proceedftd, according to his plan, in two boats, the ' Enterprise* and the ' Endeavour,' which had been specially prepared for the purpose, and each of which was twenty feet long and seven broad, flat-bottomed, and very strong. Between his return from Regent's Inlet and his setting, out on this his last Polar voyage, he had married the fourth daughter of Sir John Stanley, u N I i < 1 1 ' I' ' ..I Hi J 178 SIR EDWARD PARRY. lady who had long taken great interest in the subject of Arctic enterprise, and she it vim who went through the form of commissioning the ship by hoistiug the pendant, to the great delight of the seamen. Parry was determined to take none but first-rate, hands; but, notwithstanding this, the * Hecla' was manned in three days. And this voyage may be said to have begun in the ice ; for at Deptford, where the vessel lay while preparing, the river was frozen over, and Mrs. Parry, who was on board with her husband for a month, had an opportunity of hearing something of the grating of the ice against the ship's sides, and afterwards, when it became harder and firmer, of seeing liow the boats cut their way through, in order to communicate with the shore. ' Mr. Ross and the officers seemed to delight in it,' she observed ; and her own an^l her family's en- thusiasm, happily for them, appears to have been almost equal to that of the Captain himself. The Mr. Ross of whom she speaks was Lieute- nant James Ross, nephew to Captain Ross, who commanded the second boat. The 'Hecla' sailed direct to Hammerfest, in Norway, where they stopped to take in eight rein- deer with a supply of moss, their ordinary provender, and also to learn how to manage these beautiful creatures, on which they depended to draw their sledge-boats when they got on the ice. These intelligent and docile animals are most wonderfully adapted to this kind of labour. They HRY. ■eat interest in the she it wjiH who went lioning the ship by rreat delight of the d to take none but hstanding this, the days. lid to have begun in ( the vessel lay while izen over, and Mrs. li her husband for a f hearing something ; the ship's sides, and larder and firmer, of way through, in order Ik seemed to delight in anil her family's en- uppeara to have been laptain himself. le speaks was Lieut e- > Captain Ross, who !t to Hammerfest, in o take in eight rein- jir ordinary provender, anage these beautiful pended to draw their in the ice. jile animals are most cind of labour. They RBIN.DEER. 179 '■l eat about four pounds of moss a-day, but can go even five or six days fasting without injury : snow serves them for water and ice for a bed. A collar of skin round the neck, one trace and one rein, form the whole of their trappings, and under a skilful driver they will thus make extraordinary journeys, even in soft snflw. A shake of the rein is all the urging that they need ; and perhaps no ani- mals are so easily managed. Our party soon became quite attached to them, so that the possibility of being obliged to feed on these very rein-deer was anything but agreeable. After being beset in the ice for four-and-twenty days the vessel was at length brought to anchor in Treurenberg Bay, on the north of Spitzbergen, where so many Dutch graves were found, tliat Parry rightly surmised the name of the place to be taken from • treuren,'' to lament. . At lengili the two boats left the ship, taking with them only seventy-one days' provisions, as the season was far advanced, and his strict instructions were to return before winter — in time, indeed, for the ' Hecla' to get away before she became frozen in. But the appearance of the ice telling them plainly that it would be long before either rein-deer, snow-shoes, or wheek could be of any use. Parry left the poor animals behind, after all ; and what became of them we do not know. Of the snow-shoes, which our readers will remember to be very large affairs, they made little sledges to carry some of their luggage, these were found very useful. in '1 1 vmmmm 180 SIR KDWABl) PAIIRY. The rest of the voyage was perfectly tinicine in its character, and Parry's own wordH will best describe the plan of travelling : — ♦ It was my intention," he Hays, 'to travel wholly, at night, and to rest by day ; there beiiig, of course, constant daylight in these regions during the summer season. The advantages ct this, plan, which was oc- caaionally deranged by cirmimstances, consisted, first, in our avoiding the intense and oppressive glare from the snow during the time of the sun's greatest alti- tude; so as to prevent, in some degree, the painful inflammation in the eyes, called 'snow-blindness,' which is common in all snowy countries. We also thus enjoyed greater warmth during the hours of rest, and had abetter chance of changing our clothes; be- sides which, no small advantage was derived from the snow being harder at night for travelling. The only disadvantage of this plan was, that the fogs were somewhat more frequent, and more thick by night than by day. Even in this respect there was less dif- ference than might have l)een supposed ; the tempe- rature during the twenty-four hours undergoing but little variation. . . . WJien we rose in the morning, we commenced our day V>y prayers ; after which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses, and put on those for travelling ... We made a point of always putting on the same stockings and boots for travelling in, whether they had dried during the day or not ; and I believe it was only in live or six instances that tliey were not either still wet, or hard frozen. This wafl, indeed, of no consequence ; as they were sure to be lY. >erfectly uni(ino in 1h will befit describe H, to travel wholly . re beiAg, of course, during the Bummer >lan, which was oc- ices, consisted, first, >pre8Hive glare from sun's greatest alti- degree, the painful I •snow-blindness,' lountries. We also ng the hours of rest, ing our clothes; be- vm derived from the avelling. The only that the fogs were aoro thick by night ct there was less dif- ipposed ; the terape- ours undergoing but tise in the morning, fera ; after which we and put on those for it of always putting »ts for travelling in, the day or not ; and X instances that they •d frozen. This waft, they were sure to be iU ii Ku i i i iWMiMMiiHWiiiir i n ii i iiiilii i TfiTirB mmmm im^' mmmmmm^^^iaKm mmmmmmmm mamifaifmmmii'iismmmm^tBsmaaeamBFmKmm HLOW PKOUBK>«, ist :i thoroughly wet in a quarter of an hour after com- mencing our journey; while, on tlie other hand, it wa8 of vital importance to keep dry thinga to sleep in.' He then goes on to tell how, after breakfasting on biscuit and warm cocoa, they mi off; and usually, after travelling four or five hours, came to a halt for dinner; after which they went on again for some hours. When they hauled up the boats for the night it was always on the largest floe of ice in sight ; and then, by putting these boa alongside each other, with their stems to the wind, and placing the sails over them, supported by the masts for an awning, they got a more comfortable sleeping-place than might have been imagined. Before lying down both officers and men smoked their pipes ; and the latter told long yarns : and this was often the only com- fortable part of their waking hours. Their only fuel was spirits of wine ; and their only use for it to boil their cocoa. But the state of the ice disappointed them much. Here was no smooth level, but quantities of loose rugged masses, over which they travelled slowly; having to go backwards and forwards to fetch their provisions and luggage ; so that sometimes their pro- gress was but very slow. Once it was only half a mile in four hours; and, indeed, from the 25th of June, when they started, to the 30th, they had only reached to 82*^ 40' 23" ; or ' eight miles of direct northing.' I i -;:| y^ IH4 NIK KilWAKI) I'AHItY. With nil (»l»j»)ctH hut icn imd Hky for the oyo to rt>nt on, thry hu( hiickwiini. ()u thf23nl tht^ hiH;h('Mt point v\m rouohwl W(iH atdiini'd, vi/. H'2° 4.'/ ; just 172 inih-n from fin- 'n«!(lii;' and now it H<'»'nnMl iimdrHH lo prorec^il. I'mry hntl lonj,' htforc jfivfii up all hop*' of (^fiiininj^ thre vehement effortH. It waH the offieerH ahtiie who could take* the obrtorva- tions, who were aware that no pcireeptihie pro;^re«H waH hein^' made. On the 27th thi-y dined with fla^H flying in hoth houtn, and drunk the kinjr'H liealth in a higher latitiuhf than it had ever heim drunk before; and after a day'w rest they hej^an thrsir journey Houth- war wliich point, (1 litive hfvu 'act, howt'vor, nown it.tliny I'ffortH. It Mio oliHorva- ililn pro;^r«!«H t'd with flajjfH ij^'h healtii ill luiik brfoic ; •unioy Hoiitli- 1 ever turned ting benrH on were getting feast on one. ear the hwoII Pftblo iHland, Msions, they ho hearw had dl the broad. y warm one ; d anchor for u ■A V'. o u w a "'•M tm m m i i w i ii ^\^ *1 RETURN HOMK, 187 England ; ana by the end of September Parry was able to present himself at the Admiralty, v/here he had the joy of meeting his old friend, (Captain Franklin, who had exactly at the same time returued from a second Polar land expedition ; of which we have now to speak. ^ ■1 r^ 188 CHAPTKR X. sin JOHN FUANKLIN's .second KXPKDITIOjf. Sir John Bauhow remarks, that a tliorougli-brt d En«jli.sh seaman will soiicelj ever Kuccumb under any amount (»f danger or suffering, and that, instead of being disheartened, he will only grow more and more anxious to persevere in his career, in the hope of meeting with ultimate succefs; and he justly holds up Captain Franklin as an example of this kind of undaunted spirit. To any ordinary person it must be, indeed, inconceivable how, after enduring such almost unheard-of sufferings, he should have been not only willing, but eager, to pursue his researches in the very same regions : nevertheless, such is the fact. And what is more extraordinary still, his enthusiasm was not confined to his own breast, but w.os so fully and warmly shared by his wife, that althc -.igh she was lying on what she knew must be her death-bed, when the preparations were complete she would not keep him a single day beyond that fixed for departure, Ijut entreated him, 'as ho valued her peace of mind and i IPKDITION. thorougl»-brc d Kuccumb under [id that., instead grow more and canser, in the iccef-H ; and he I an example of ) any ordinary able how, after suflFerings, he but eager, to Hame regions : what, iH more »s not confined ly and warmly i was lying on •bed, when tlu; not keep him departure, but ice of mind and 1 KXTRAORDINAUY KNTHIISIASM. 189 his own glory, not to delay a moment on her ac- count ;' adding, ' that it could be but to close her eyes.' It was a heroism worthy of the highest cause — too high, perhaps, most persons will think, for a matter of mere discovery : but such men as Franklin, and such women as Franklin's wife, are apt to regard the interests and glory of their profession, and still more of their country, as far beyond any considerat/ons of private interest or feeling. We mudt remember that, after all, had not our country- men posnessed this spirit of devotion to her honour, England had never risen to her present place among thu nations. And it is cheering to think that both our own and other lands can furnish a few examples of as high a courage in a atili higher cause — witness the names of Mans Egede^ of Cap- tain Allan Gardiner, John Williams, Adoniram Judson, and others. Captain Franklin's wife, however, was not the only one who participated in bis ardour ; for no sooner had Government given consent, and directeti him to prepare for his new enterprise, than many distinguished officers volunteered their services, and amongst others Lieutenant Back and Dr. Richardson. They, too, had forgotten their sufferings, and were aa eager as their capfciin to complete the geography and natural history of the shores of the Polar sea ; and probably also they were equally sanguine a.-; to their escape from a repetition of those suflTerings on the present occ^vaion. Dr. Richardson even left a \ fi J{ # iiliiliilli rtiilii(rg!ii(|i| lOU SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. ij wife and family, and a comfortable position at home, to accompany his old friend. They were now to go direct to the Mackenzie River — the ' Great River,' as it has l>een called by the settlers — and thence to proceed to its mouth, to examine the coasts westward as far as Icy Cape, and eastward to (he month of the Coppermine River; and as Parry was then out on his third voyage it was once more hoped that they might meet with and assist him. Profiting by experience, they did not trust to such canoes as might be obtained at the Company's stations, but sent out by way f Hudson's Bay large boats constructed for the puipose, and a little one called the * Walnut-Shell,' to be used on certain occasions. Supplied with all kinds of comforts in the way of tents, bedding, clothing, waterproof dresses, and eatables of all possible descriptions, and with abundance of ammunition, as well as of scientific instruments, they had no fear of en- countering their former difficulties. On the 16th of February, 1825, Captain Franklin, Lieut. Back, Dr. Richardson, Mr. Kendall, the draughtsman of the party, and Mr. Drummond, the assistant-naturalist, embarked at Liverpool for New York with four marines, and on the 1.5th of July they arrived safely at Fort Chipewyan, on the north of the Athabaska Lake. As on the former occasion, they took every opportunity of engaging the necessary assistants — Canadian voyageurs, and Indian hunters from various tribes — while the ser- it >Hition at home, the Mackenzie l»een called by to its mouth, to 8 ley Cape, and line River ; and voyage it was meet with and id not trust to the Company's Hudson's Bay [)8e, and a little used on certain of comforts in ng, waterproof e descriptions, , as well as of fear of en- 1825, Captain 1, Mr. Kendall, [r. Drummond, Liverpool for m the I 5th of tewyan, on the on the former ;y of engaging ifoyageurs, and -while the ser- THEY I<:MBARK ON THE MACKENZIE. 191 vices of their former excellent Esquimaux guide and , interpreter, Augustus, were also secured ; and Mr. Dease, one of the chief traders of the Hudson's Bay Company, was, happily, found willing to join them. The nume of this latter gentleman is now to be met with in our niaps of North America in several places. Travelling steadily on, the whole party soon mustered in force on tlie Great Bear Lake river, which falls into the Mackenzie ; and while Dr. View on t)ie Hookonxio Kivoi'. Richardson crossed the lake to that point which is nearest to the river Coppermine, and Lieutenant Back was left to superintend the preparation of winter quarters, afterwards named Fort F'ranklin, the Cap- tain himself, with another party, embarked on the Mackenzie, and sailed towards the ocean. As Mackenzie has mentioned in his account, they found along the banks of this river a (luantity of wood- coal, which wsia on fire, and gave out a very disagree- 1. *-j .|iJ 1^ 16^ sin JOHN FUANKI.IN. able smell, but, little lieiit. There was also a kind of unctuous mud, which the Indians now and then use for food, or even chew m an amusement. It has a milky taste, and is not unpleasant. They noticed, too, a dark bituminous fluid oozing from the rocks, and two streams of sulplnireous wat*r pouring into the river. At a place called the Ramparts, where it is rapid and obstructed by limestone-rocks, they met with some of the Hare Indians, laden with fish, berries, and meat. Both men and women were dressed in leathern clothes, and wore as ornaments beads and porcupine quills. They were entertained at midnight by Mr. Dease at P'ort Good Hope, and by means of a half-caste yoimg man, named Baptiste, they endeavoured to open a communication with these people: but it was unsuccessful, until Augustus presented himself. But no sooner had tbey per- ceived him than they welcomed him with the live- liest demonstrations of affection, which appears somewhat singular when we remember the hatred that exists between the two races. The river was so very broad at its mouth that it was some time before Franklin could ascertain that he had really reached the sea. They landed as boon as they had done so ; and when the tent was pitched on shore he caused the silk Union flag, which his wife had made and presented to him as a parting gift, to be hoisted and unfurled, forcing himself, against his natural feelings, to join in the cheers with which the men saluted the British flag. In fact, he was now compelled to keep up the IS also a kind of w und then UHe lent. It Ims a They noticed, sing from the 8 wat*r pouring the RampartH, imeatone-rocks, ians, laden with nd women were B as ornaments rere entertained rood Hope, and lamed Baptiste, unication witli until Augustus had they per- I with the live- which appears ber the hatred The river was was some time , he had really te so ; and when 1 the silk Union esented to him :ifurled, forcing to join in the e British flag. :o keep up the WINTERINO AT THE FORT. spirit* of the party, for some of t.ie Canadians were losing heart at this their first sight of the ocean ; and, besides, an attack was hourly expected from the Esquimaux, whose territory tliey liad now entered. Unfortunately, however, the water w lich had been mixed wi'Ji the brandy, with which they were to drink the King's health, turned out to be salt water ; and they were obligetl to pour the whole on the ground as a libation, instead of enjoying the then unusual draught. PVanklin would have rejoiced at once to proceed westward, which was to be his share of the explora- tion, but the -Beasou was too advanced, and the wea- ther too rough: so they returned to the fort, where they found all the others assembled, and where very comfortable huildings had been prepared for their winter imprisonment of eight or nine months. There all soon settled down to their various employments. As before, the officers naturally found work enough ; but for the men it had to be made. In the establisliment of schools, which proved very suc- cessful, and in which the officers taught, Franklin seems to have taken a lesson from his friend Parry ; and the Sundays were kept as days of rest, when the whole party, except two or three of the Canadians, attended Divine service twice. On other evenings a sort, of hall was given up to the men for any games that they chose, and in these the officers invariably joined. So an excellent feel- ing was preserved between all parties; while the great admiration and esteem which were felt for O *t' i. if , ■■■:ifmsnm ?»mma m mmim JBH'tmiiii"'' 194 HIR JOHN FRANKUK. their ciiptain proved, moreover, a strong bond of union between them. Tlicy got through tlie winter comfortably ; tI)ough for a Hhort time tlicy were without both fn«h and dried meatH, and but little fiBh was caught : so that they were obliged to resort to their pemmican, arrowroot, and porUible soup, which were to have been wholly reserved for the sea voyages. Dr. Richardson kept a regidar record of the migrations and return of the various animals and birds: — ' September 1 Ith. Mosquitoes cease to be trouble- some. October 2nd. Swans seen in flight. October 5tli. Last swans seen. January 3rd. All animals gone southward, except the wolf and fox. On the shortest day the sun seen above the horizon, 2'' 38"". (We must remember tliat this was only latitude 65° 11' 56'' N.) April 10th. A house-fly seen out of doors. May 6th. The first swans seen, „ 7th. The geese appeared. „ 8th. The ducks return. „ 9th. The gulls. „ 11th. The first rain fell. „ 17th. Various singing-birds appeared. „ 27th. First laughing geese seen. „ Slst. The goatfluckier.' And so on. itrong bond of trtubly ; though both fnmh uiid AUght : so thut eir pemniican, wer« to have yagc». record of the 8 animalfl and le to be trouble- ithward, except een above the a only latitude »f doors. appeared. 3en. HKI'AHATK INTO TWO l'AHTIIat8 t«, with their r rnn ngruiind and, without e 8igU8 to tlie iH WH8 under- lick Hucceasion lein. Elderly ■emed to have ut trmling, for them with a that tiin lioats I at probably if dd soon come th them. On ing shout of ' on smoothly, aks got upset \n KB«]uimaux r, a8 his head however, has- nto tJjoir boat, wn great-coat, ce in, lie got a 'ere concealed I I .( !.i (4i I •raef^-^w^imnmmtemt \'l :>J r^ ■•■W" '" ■WW .i i ifjH i u i .. « w wi ^im ti my -i^tw-ti^- ■ noATS rurNDKnKI) HY TIIK KHgUIMAHX. 190 from till! iiiitivi'H by ooverinf(M, nrul liitt account of tlii«w( to liiH countrymen cuiiwmI hucIi h iiihIi on tin* hofitd tiiiit for a tiino tliu |H)Mition of tlu> crcwH waH by nu nit'anH {ilraHunt. At Utn^th tbo nativcH HcixtHl itack'n bont, the • Ucliancc,' and Ite^iHi (lra^^infJ; it aHhorc. Tha * Lion' attomptt'd to follow, but Iming a^rourul, it wa8 unable to procftul until almt taken in band by the dovagm; and then they pi rcuived that tbo Ki«]uiniaux who had Inntn taken in had Ntolen a pi«tol from Lieutenant Back. Finding? that IiIh theft waH diHcoven^d, the fellow jumptni overboard and joined hit4 companionM, carryiufj ofT AujifUMtUM* jj[reat- coai;. At the Humo moment two t)f tla; stronj^ewt men jumped on board, and Heizin^ Franklin by the wriBtH, forced him to mt iMstween them : a third 8«)on followed a« he attempted to Hhako tliem of!', Rud all kept repeating • Teyma,* and boating gently on his left breast, while they premised IiIh liandH agaiuMt their brea(tt«. Ah soon m they reached the shore the three men leaped out and made their escape, while others stripping themselves to their waists, and drawing their knives, l)egan a regular pillage of the 'Re- liance,' all the articles being handed to the women as soon as secured, and they as quickly making off with them. It was a violent contest, and at length Lieu- tenant Back ordered his men to level their nmskets, but not to fire until the word was given. Happily, it was not necessary, for the natives all took to their heels; but Franklin believed, that had a man of t !■ iiiliiiiiiliM8rililTiiiT1Tli1I1tiiTWiiil''l W0 i,^;l III 1 if'' 200 SIR JOHN FRANKLIK. thein fallen, a deadly revenge woidd have l)e<^n taken by his cotintrymen. The boats wore then got afloat, and soon seven or eight of the natives returned, and held a con- versation with AugustuR, inviting liim to a con- ference fm shore. Perfectly fearless an to himself, the lion-hearted fellow hugged so earnestly to go, that at last Franklin consented ; and as they watched the effect of hia speech I hey could perceive that it was approved by his compatriots, by the loud shouts of applause with which it was received. On his return he told the crews that he had reproved the natives for tl)eir bad conduct, that it had been different from that of any other Esquimaux ; and that he had furtiier told them how much better off they would be were they in connexion with Europeans, like his own tribe; that tliey never could expect to see white men again anless thry instantly brought back all the stolen aRicles;^and that, further, it was not fear, but compassion that had withheld the English from firing that day. This bold conduct had the desired effect, for the natives strove to exctise themselves on the ground of never having seen white men before, and not being able to resist so m»' 7 fine ar icles. They brought back the stolen thmga, and thus by a wise management all bloodshed was avoided, and affairg placed on an amicable footing. The Esquimaux are not generally a warlike people, but these perhaps had hecomo so by their constant collisions with the Dog-rib Indians. 1. •:!<■ CLIV. ould have Ikm^u iiikvM floaf, and soon seven ed, and held a cou- ting him to a con- earless an to hiraself, I 8o earnestly to go, and as they watched ould perceive that it :», by the loud shouts received. i crews that he had bad conduct, that it ny other Esquimaux ; lem how much better iu connexion with >e; that they never 1 again .'inless thr j stolen aniclea ; ^nnd but compassion that Sring that day. e desired effect, for themselves on the lite men before, and fine ar icles. They I, and thus by a wise avoided, and affairs generally a warlike ':ecoBi(ij so by their Dg-rib Indians. / KSQITIMAUX OF THE NOnTII-WRST. 201 As they proceeded westward they found them more and more like the Chinese Tartars, and witli small, oblique eyes. Their ornaments were of a sin- gular character, and were so highly valued tliat they would not sell them. These consisted in a piece of bone, worn by every man through his nose, and a circular piece of ivory, with a blue bead in the centre, fixed into holes in the under-lip, so as to keep the mouth open. Some of the women were good-looking, and dressed their black liair in u tasteful manner, turned up on the top with strings of blue beads or white cord, and divided in front into two long bands to the waist, ornamented witli beads. Lieutenant Back took a likeness of one, who was highly flattered by the compliment. On the 13th they pursued their voyage; but not till they came to Herschel Island did tliey find a safe anchorage for a ship. Here Franklin visited Mount Conybe&re, and had a good view of the various ranges of the Kocky Mountt.ins. . On the boundary of the British dominion (for all this land was considered ours ; we suppose, in virtue of the grant to Prince Eupert) they found a river, which, in honour of the then Lord High Admiral, afterwards William IV., they named Clarence. They also, however, took the liberty of naming one further on, which was in the Russian dominions : this they called Canning. ' „ On the 4th of August they fell in with apeacffable tribe of Esquimaux, with whom they traded ; but the 202 SIR JOHN iBANKLlN. further westward they went, the more were they troubled by fogs, gales, rain, and drifts of ice. By the middle of this month winter had really set in ; and the men having already suflfered much from cold and fatigue, in dragging or carrying the, boats, Franklin reluctantly decided to return; having reached no further than a point in long. 149° 37' W; which he named « Return Reef:' little knowing that at that very time a boat's crew, sent by Captain Beechey from the ' Blossom,' which liad rounded Icy Cape, were actually within 160 miles of them. It hjid been a harassing voyage along the coast from MackeiKu' River, and it was an equally trying one back again. Indeed, in a violent squall near Herschel Island they all had a narrow escape of their lives. By the 2 1st September they reached Fort Frank- lin, where the other party had already arrived, after a most piosperous voyage and journey. Starting from Point Separation, Dr. Richardson and his crews had passed along a low, flat coast, where they had the gratification of seeing m*ny sand- martins thinning the ranks of their great foes, the mosquitoes. Rein-deer Hills beyond were clothed with trees to their very tops. At one spot, where was an immense spruce-fir tree, seven feet in circumference at four feet from the ground, they encamped ; and next day they came to a small island, which being evidently one of the Esquimaux burial-places, they named Sacred Island. NATIVKS PACIFIED BY BARTER. 203 ore were they Is of ice. By really set in ; lucli from cold ng the, boatd, jtum ; having ar. 149°37'W; ) knowing that it by Captain id rounded Icy >f theui. long the coast equally trying it squall near escape of their d B'ort Frank- arrived, after •r. Kichardsou it coast, where m+ny sand- jfreat foes, the i with trees to « an immense rence at four and next day sing evidently they named A little further on they met with some Esqui- maux, who used threatening gestures, and whom, at Ooligback's recommendation, they avoided by in- stantly embarking. The Indians in the party spoke of a large lake just beyond, which they call Esqui- maux I^ake; and on t lie 15th they crossed an inlet, supposed to be connected with it, which they called Russell Inlet. Low coasts and shallow water lay beyond; and on the 18th, whilst sailing between the little islands, a party of Esquimaux ruslied out upon them, brandishing knives, and forbidding them to land. But when the Doctor shouted * barter,' they were instantly peaceable ; and the presents they re- ceived soon rendered them almost frantic with delight. A bundle of beads, caught by one old woman, sent her into transports; while another, who stood by, became the picture of despair. It was divided, however, on Richardson's recommendation, and a pleasing song was sung in token of gratitude; to which they kept time with their oars. Tlie women * drew their children out of their wide boots, where they are accustomed to keep them,' in order to obtain beads also for them : but at length the crew succeeded in getting free, and again pur- sued their voyage. Having rounded Point Bathurst they came to a bay, which Richard8<:)n named Franklin Bay ; and on the opposite side of it was a point, which they named Parry Cape. Passing through a channel, which was called, after their boats, the Dolphin and Union Straits, they reached a spot at which ■rriVBt\i?!tm'm 204 SIU JOHN KHANKLIN. there was much ice : and the ' Dolphin' woh so neiiily crualied between two masses, that tliey had to Ktop until she was again rendered seaworthy. 'This strait would always be dangerous for ships,' says Bichardson, ' from the number of sunken rocks which it contains.' One more rocky point was named by him Cape Krusenstern, after the Russian hydrograplier, and tlien tliey -^aine to Cape Heame; and their arrival at the mouth of the Coppermine was announced to the men, who were quite unprepared for so speedy a termina- tion of the voyage. All were in excellent heulth, and ready to com- mence their journey back. They soon reached the Bloody Falls of Heame, and found the river here 80 full of rapids that, the boats l)eing utterly useless, they left them stowed with a few such articles as Esquimaux would like; and, dividing their provi- sions, proceeded on foot to Deaso's Fiiver, on the Bear Lake, where the expected boat soon arrived ; f^Z cliey speedily reached the tort of whi»«IJWgPW!f»i Hili.M i W < iLIB i M i . IMX V v^ f iV!^!>^ ' i !f }rt !f mi iS^^: ^ ^^T'' [: r^r>'^-t::.'2 •■:• FnUITLESS SEARf'H FOU THE ' FURY.' 209 >hn,' had been i to accoiiiptuiy of the ' Fury,' with her cargo. Ivanced ; and a ofthe' John's' ) winter in the 8 Home security refused to give re, to proceed Farewell the r engine, which sometimes the sfht endeavour- the men were [eep the steam of feeding the a fine harbour to the rocks. arae on board ; rse with a few who appeared I. oast; and the •kwood,' lay in le governor for :hings of which ter purchasing some warm winter clothes and skins they pursued their course, passing Disco Island, and running across Davis's Straits into Lancaster Sound, and up Barrow's Straits with a fair wind, and little or no obstruction from the ice. On the 10th of August, having turned south- wards, land was seen on both sides, and it was found that they were actually in Prince Regent's Inlet. The next day they passed Port Bowen ; and, crossing over to the western side, they arrived on the 12th in sight of the very spot where the ' Fury ' should have lain. All the officers went ashore and made a careful search, but no • Fury ' being visible, it was concluded that the moving ice had carried her down, and that she had gone to the bottom. From the appearance of the tents under which her provisions had been stowed away, it was evident that bears had visited the spot ; but the hermetically sealed casks had entirely prevented these creatures from getting the least notion of what they contained ; and the stores of meat, flour, sugar, cocoa, &c., were consequently as good as when left there by Parry some four years before. This addition to their supplies, though not per- haps of much apparent value at the time, as the 'Victory' came out with provisions for 1000 days, turned out in the end a most providential one ; and without it the whole crew of twenty-three persons would most likely have perished. But little did they then imagine how long it would be before they again reached their native shores ; and Ross had no P 21U HIR JOHN ROHH. mind to linger lii>rp; for juHt jih I'ftrry hiul HJicceeded wlu^ro \w, failed, mo whh he now unxiouH to Hucceed witere Parry had failed. It waH a remarkably favourul'ln Heason, and the vessel continued her voyaj^e all down the western Hide of this inlet, the northern part of which had been named by Parry, North SoraerHet. They found that the Htrait led, aH the EHqui- maux lady, Iligliuk, had Haid it did, into a large gulf; and tluH gulf Hohh now namtni after IiIh friend, the Gulf of Boothia : though Sir John Barrow says that it should be the Gidf of Akkolee, because all its western shores are called by the Esquimaux the land of Akkolee. At the bottom of this gulf, on the western side, and just opposite to the Fury and Hecla Strait, was a convenient *iarbour, to which the captain gave the name of Felix, also a/ter his friend, and there it was soon evident they would have to winter. In fact, by the 8th of October they were fast frozen in. It was necessary, however, to get the vessel further i shore ; as, where she lay, she was exposed to the violence of severe gales. It was a work of considerable diflSculty to get a canal cut, through which she might be hauled up, and also to get many of her stores, and especially the powder, removed to a secure spot on the land. This done, it was next discovered that the heavy snow which fell was pene- trating through the decks into the berths ; and, to remedy this inconvenience, the crew were set to dig holes on shore in search of gravel, which at length WWp»^wi «i 1 1 >i i iii.n w amm i i iimjBiimw u. jfw f o m'- I PHKCAimoNH AOAINHT DAMP. 911 luul Hucc'ceded uUH to Hucceed Hea8on, and the n th« western of which ^lad set. aH the Esqui- , into a hirgo iter hin friend, in Barrow says becauHe all its ima)ix the land i gulf, on the the Fury and r, to which the liter his friend, would have to iber they were ?et the vessel le was exposed was a work of I cut, through BO to get many er, removed to fie, it was next fell was pene- lerths ; and, to ivere set to dig hich at length they very fortunately found, tnd with that they covered the upper deck. Then they adopted the curious expedient of putting a thick layer of snow over the gravel ; and thus the danger of the berths becoming damp from any drift penetrating into them was obviated. They had now wupplies left for thirty months; but not HO large a stock of fuel as they could have wished, the engine having couKunuHl no snuiU portion of it. Tlie ' Victory' was very inferior to botli the ' Heela' and ' Fury' in point of comfort and convenieuoe; so that the men suffered far more from cold than the crews of those vessels had done. Btit Captain Rons did his best with the means in his power, and imi- tated the examples that had been set by Parry and Franklin in the establishment of schools, and in the enforcement of exercise when no active work was re- quired. He had not, however, the same genial na- ture which had rendered them so belovcnl by their men ; coula not descend from the captain to the friend ; and though he attended to their welfare in the main, he does not seem to have unclerstood that in this dreary spot they required all the little plea- sures and indulgences that could be afforded them. It was well, therefore, perhaps, that so much labour was absolutely necessary in order to make themselves comfortable, and that thus they had less leisure on their hands. A few bears and wolves now and then afforded them a little sport; and the men used at times to wmm /• 212 HIR JOHN ROHH. iiinu«o tliernHflveH Ity Retting trnp^ for foxf!H and Hoiiln, the HkinM of wliicli, an wrll an tli«» oil of the Uttwr, were very valuut)l« to thorn. Conunnnder JaiiieH UoMH, who had accoinpunicd hU uin-lo, wm particuliirly HitccoHNftd witli IiIh seal-trapH ; and he aim) Hhot a few grotme, gullH, and ptarnii(j;an ; the two latter Itelongin^f to v«ry iKtaiitiful Hpticies. Tho nuile ptarmigan wiw perfectly white, with large Hcarlet eyebrows, and the legs and feet of hoth male and female were covered with long white featherH down to the claws. One of the gidU was a kittewake, the most elegant bird in the species. Its bill is lemon-colour, its plumage ash, black and whito, and its legs a livid shade. In November the aurora borealis began to appear in the lieavens with uncommon splendour. It would be seen first in broad masses, and then suddenly break out into columns and streamers, which spread all over the sky ; and, in the absence of the sun, it must have been a never-ending amusement to watch its varying forms and colours. The rays vary in colour, and are sometimes of a steel-j^rcy, yellowish- grey, pea-green, golden, violet, or purple ; at others every description of red, pink, or orange ; sometimes the beams tpke the form of arches, and are t'nged with black ; sometimes it appears very high ir the heavens, while at others it seems to flash acres", the earth like lightning. Commander James Roas endeavoiu'ed to ascer- tain the truth regarding the noises wliich some persons speak of as accompanying tliia appearance, ■ ■ l it Wi ) l?»mnn(ler IiIh uiK'lc, waM trapH ; and he tHrniigan ; the il Hpi^cieH. \y white, with id feet of l)oth Il long white the gidln was a [) HpecieH. It8 Hh, black and egan to appear our. It wotild then stiddenly , which Hpread of the 8un, it ment to watch rayH vary in rey, yellowish- pie ; at others ge; sometimes md are I'nged ry high ir the ash acrosi the iired to ascer- < wiiicli some lis appearance, I OLD KS^iriMAlX AND HIS I.AMK SOX. 218 hut he could come to uo conclusion. Its influ*'iic<< on the magnet had, however, Inien pretty well mcer- tBined,anil i-liietly liy ohhervation' made hy Fn nkliti, UichardMuii, and Hack, as we Iwive iiet'ort' ftiitetl. Kariy in .luiiiiiiry, liowever, they hud a phusautfr and more cheering interruption to their solitud •, for the report of one of their guns brought them some human visitorM. Captaiti UoHH was on shore when Allan .M'lnnisR, the second engint«r, siiouted jy i| U I H.Wl l B ^. TAKING OFF A LEG. 215 very different from t in the north; they able, and evidently Phey also gave token mon among savages, n for the presents be- Qxious to perform any wer. They were an ir clothes and various , knivea, and spears, he men and women winter <;Jhey wore a sets being made of the flesh, and of the were neatly made, e needles and moss heir infants either in tons boots, the latter ore-rooms, even food itch these Esquimaux first thing they did w-hut near to a seal's lit crouched down for le cold, watching for ed snout, like a cat it came up the hunter mt remain still and ith, until the animal m its hole, when he i killed him with his Some persons may possibly be curious to know how savages amputate a broken leg; so it may be worth while to describe the manner in which the operation was performed on TuUooachia. In the first place, the upper part of the leg had been bound tightly with leathern thonga ; then all the flesh stripped off the lower part wita their rude knives, the bone placed in a hole in the ice and snapped asunder. The surgeon of the 'Victory,' however, thought that a new one might be made for the poor fellow ; so he called the carpenter to come and „ake his measure. As soon as TuUooachia und*^' stood what was proposed he went into a rapturous fit of delight, and when it was finished and fitted on, his joy was still more extravagant, and he walked about with it in the proudest manner. In April, Commander James Ross began his journeys across the Ian ' of which he made five or six, discovering at different times the narrow isthmus oi Boothia, its width — only about fifteen miles, with a lake in the centre— and the strait to the west, which bears his name. He seems to have been the only man on board at all acquainted with geology, natural history, and botany, and in each depart- ment he collected numerous specimens. In fact, most of the discoveries of every kind that were made during this voyage, if not all, were made by him. On his journeys some of the Esquimaux generally accompanied him as guides ; but on the tliird occa- sion, when visiting their village before starting, for the purpose of securing some compai^ions, a most >" 216 SIR JOHN ROSS. extraordinary change seemed to have come over the people. Perfect silence reigned there, and instead of the usual welcome, a number of Es- quimaux were soon perceived approaching, fully armed, and all the women and children set on pne side behind them — a sure sign of war. AH at once an old man sprang out of a hut, and began brandishing his knives in the air with the most furious gestures. He looked wild and furious, and would have rushed on his visitors had not his two sons pinioned his arms. Commander Ross attempted in vain to obtain an explanation; but when others appeared ready to second the old man, and formed themselves into two lines, in order to cut off his retreat to the vessel, he and his companion, the surgeon, lowered their guns, and were about to fire. Happily, this motion was sufficient ; for the whole company took to their heels and fled. After some time one woman timidly approached ; and from her they learnt that aybung adopted son of the old man, having died in consequence of a stone falling on his head, the English were suspected of having caused the disaster by magic, in which the Esquimaux have a firm belief; and therefore they determined to have their revenge. After a consi- derable expenditure of eloquence. Commander Ross persuaded them, however, that it was all a dream of their own imagination ; and then he started off with his three guides. In the month of June the crew began to be em- W l' lP* MWJ i .l l lUM| i ,») l,| ii . i j.j|Jim)! mum re come over Mi tliere, and imber of Es- oaching; fully en set on pne war. All at lit, and began rith the moBt d furious, and i not his two n. to obtain an ired ready to elves into two the vessel, he ed their guns, is motion was ; to their heels y approached; idopted son of nee of a stone suspected of in which the therefore they A.fber a consi- nmander Koss ivU a dream of arted off with fan to be em- \f^ IJ»! i,H*ininl»Jiji ".|"H!'?.K." THE ' VICTOKY' LKAVES FELIX HARBOUR. 219 ployed in preparing the ' Victory' for her departure from Felix harbour, although it must he some time yet before the ice open'jd. But there was plenty of amusement as well as work at that season, when all kinds of animals and birds flock back to their usual haimts. Both Captain Ross and his nephew made varior expeditions into the country : and the latter was in- defatigable in his endeavours to find out more of the geography of the country, in order that they might be prepared to sail in the most eligible direction as soon as the ice broke up. He used to go out with sledges drawn by dogs, but on the 14th of this month he came back with only two out of nine of these animals : theit pro- visions having fallen so short, that he had been ob- liged to kill the others. Thus the labou- ' r the men bad been greatly increased, and on iheir return *hey looked almost ghastly from want and fatigue. The Commander was also disheartened, because he had failed to discover a passage out of the gulf; and he determined now to try in a more southerly direction for an opening. It was not, however, until the 4th of September that the vessel was able to leave Felix ha?bour, al- though it had appeared probable that she might get out in July; and even when off, she had scarcely gone three times her own length before she grounded on a rock, slipped off, and grounded again on the bottom of the water. ^ 820 SIR JOHN ROSS. As quickly as possible her stores were got out, and placed on shore, in order to* lighten her; but the most intense anxiety waa felt as to whether she would float next high tide. It was almost a question of life and death to the crew; and at any rate, should she remain fixed, their only alternative must be to proceed in their boats to Baffin's Bay, and there ob- tain a passage home in some whalor. But no whaler could be looked for that season ; and so there would be no alternative but to winter once more on that dreary coast. The tide, however, came rolling in; the ship began to heave; and intense wls the relief expe- rienced when the watch on the mows shouted, ' She floats 1 she floata 1 ' But September was getting on, and the young ice again forming; so that there waa no time to belost. On the 17th, however, a strong w'nd opened the ice; and the ship was got under sail, and proceeded about four miles. Then it was fastened to an iceberf*', to wait until next morning. This step seems to have been a false one ; at least it was thought by some that the Captain might, by a bolder course, have been able to clear the narrow passage, and get out into the open sea. No doubt the position T/ns a difficult one ; but the opportunity was certainly lost : and soon the pres- sure of the ice became so great, that there remained no alternative but to get the ' Victory' back into her old quarters ; and how the hearts of the crew sank within them, may not be easily imagined. mmmiimmmm A i NW*'»- i »»t ' iWA- i WiW i ,»:j!g.<. ' i>!9fi; T!'^%?;.*i!!".V-S.Si&: were got out, in her ; but the !ther she would a question of ay rate, should ve must be to , and there ob- But no whaler so there would more on that in ; the ship e relief expe- shouted, 'She 1 the young ice ime to be lost, pened the ice ; oceeded about an iceberg, to 5 one ; at least in might, by a ir the narrow 3ea. cult one; but soon the pres- liere remained back into her ;he crew sank ined. DISCOVERY OF WESTERN MAGNETIC POLE. 221 The consequence, however, was the discovery of the Western Magnetic Pole ; of which Parry had been in search during his several voyages. He had, as we have related, observed the sluggishness of the magnet about long. 93° 30', and lat. 70° N., and surmised that they were near that point ; but in order to discover tiie exact spot it was necessary to have placed the needle where it should not move at all. This Commander James Ross accomplished ; and having done so, ho writes that he * leaves his readers to imagine his transports,' and how ' all his perils and fatigues were forgotten ;' while he * felt as if he had nothing to do but to go home and be happy for the rest of his days.' That winter passed, and August came again, when they must try once more to get the * Victory' out of its harbour. Yet once more were they doomed to disappoint- ment ; for she came out only to be forced to enter another harbour, and pass a third winter there. It was in the month of April, 1832, that they came at last to the sorrowful conclusion that, if saved at all, it must be by abandoning their poor vessel, and proceeding northward with their stores, partly in boats, carried overland, and partly in sledges. This course was now decided on ; but so terrible was the labour of the undertaking, and so often had they to return to the ship, that, by the end of the month, although they had traversed 1 10 miles, yet I MZSr ^'i^y?'feff^y?j??,#j^w.ya yi ^?*'M->y'^ . ^ -^^-ff^figaFtg?.^,. ■. ^ 229 HtK JOHN ROSS. they were only eighteen from the spot whence they started. On the 28th of May they drank a final glass of grog on board the ship, and sadly bid adieu to their old friend, [t was the 1 st of July when they reached Fury Point, where still some supplies remained, and anxiously did they watch the ice in the vaii hope of getting into Davis's Strait before the whalers went home. A fourth winter had to be passed at Fury Point ; and July came round again before they could make another effort. This time they got half way lip the inlet to Batty's Gulf; but there, again, they had to stop awhile, watching the weather in agonies of hope and fear. At length a clear passage opened one evening ; and by four next morning all the crew were cutting a passage through the brush ice on the bank, and once more the boats were launched. It was truly a last attempt ; for if again driven back to Port Fury they must all have perished by starvation, or by the jaws of wild beasts ; but this time the channel continued to open and to widen. They went on and on, past Leopold Isle, and the eaat point of the strait. Forced once by a hurricane to land at York Cape, they went on next day, and did not rest again until the 25th of August. They then landed again, set up their tents, and were repairing their boats, when the joyful word, * A sail I' was heard from the watch ; and every one sprang to his feet, asking, ' Is it a sail, or only an iceberg?' mmm'. wmmmmmmm'n. mm •KSBPSSSSETBr? '^■:vvs,.'mAS-m:tt'km--i:.7wi THE ' ISABELLA' SAVKS f'BEW OF THE 'VKTORV.' 223 3t whence they 1 final gloHs of adioii to their n they reached remained, and e vai'i hope of ! whalers went assed at Fury ore they could J got half way re, again, they ;her in agonies I one evening ; were cutting a lank, and once as truly a last ort Fury they T by the jaws nel continued and on, past strait. and at York aot rest again leir tents, and S^ful word, * A 3d every one il, or only an Quickly their boats were laurt-hed once more ; but there was little wind, and their progress was but slow. But no disappointment await«d them this time : their doubts were soon at an end, for a ship was distinctly seen. Mure than that, a second at the same time appeared from the north, and the crew believed that they were seen. But no; on< vessel, at least, has not perceived them : for she spreading her sails, and is soon out of sight. It was a moment almost of despair; but the captain cheered his men by declaring, what he scarcely believed, that they were now nearing the other. A calm, however, providentially saved them : they pushed on vigorously, and were perceived. A boat was lowered from the vessel, and ap- proached Koss's boat. ' Y^ju liavt; lost your vessel?' said the officer in command. * Yes,' replied Ross ; * and we entreat you to receive us on board. What is the name of your vessel ?' * The " Isabella," once commanded by Captain Russ,' answered the officer. * I am that Captain Ross,' replied the latter ; * and these men were the crew of the " Victory." ' ' Impossible I' returned the other ; • for Ross has been dead these two years I ' We need not enter on the means taken to con- vince him. Suffice it to say, that Ross was bOon on i»e#^v?i i-^4■--F'iB?aJV•«Y"l '-^ 224 8IU JOHN BOSS. board his old vesHel, receiviug tlie enthusiastic cheers of the whole crow, and that all the rescued men were treated by Captain Humphreys with the greatest kindness. The scene that followed could only l)e described by an eye-witness; so we will not attempt it. Every one had to talk, and every one had to listen. There was news, public and private, to be inquiied into and communicated. The rescued orew, too, had to eat, wash, shave, and dress, at one and the same time. It waa a scene of delightful con- fusion. But in the * Victory's' crew, which had already been diminished by some deaths, there were several sick men. These were overpowered with attention, for every one was anxious to serve them. lo t' ose who had so long been used to hardships, and to sleeping on rocks and snow, the ordinary comforts of life had lost their charm. They could not sleep in beds; and even the captain states that he was obliged to throw himself into an arm-chair, in order to get any Bleep. On the 19th of October they ai'rived in London, where the case of Ross waa brought before a Com- mittee of the House of Commons, who immediately voted him a sum of 5000^. to make up for his losses, while double pay was given to the men up to the time of their abandonment of the ship, and full pay after tliat time till their arrival in England. Good situations in the dockyards were also given to them. >«ll thusiaetic cheerH pscued men were itU the greatest nly lie described attempt it. 'ery one had to private, to be le rescued crew, Iress, at one and delightful cou- ch had already ?re were several with attention, em. led to hardships, T, the ordinary n. ; and even the iged to throw ler to get any ved in London, before a Com- bo immediately ip for his losses, men up to the p, and full pay agland. Good given to them. tl I ma ^ mmmmmmmmm msmmmmim mmmmmmmm iioNoriw <;()Ni'KUi{Ki». 327 ('oniiuaiiiicr Rohm wiih apimiiitc*! to tin; coiniimiid uf tho • Victory' fur ii y«'ur, that he mi^jlit at the end of that, time rrceivd poHt-raiik ; whiUs iVIr. Hooth, tlje jHitroii tit" thi- cxpciiition, wm crcatt'd a liiinnu-t. (■uptaiii UoHM iitltt)rwartlH uhtu'iuHl tUv lionoiir of kiiii IROQUOIS. 231 assistants would be obtained at the still distant Norway House, among the ' old winterers.' All was so far favourable; but, on the other hand. Back had the mortification of discovering, during this short delay at Montreal, that two of his three men had lost heart, imder the impression that the sym- pathy which was everywhere manifested betokened coming danger ; and it was with difficulty that their services could be retained, — only, in fact, by sending them on at once to begin their journey. Meantime, four fine fellows in the Koyal Artillery there Itad volunteered their services ; and Back, who was now particularly glad to secure any checks on his own refractory men, procured their kave of absence ; and thus reinforced, they embarked at La Chine in canoes, on the noble river St. Lawrence, down which they shot rapidly under the able conduct of Paul, an old Iroquois, whose know- ledge of all the rapids in their route made him a valuable servant, in spite of his propensity for strong drink. At a short distance down the St. liawrence they turned off into the Ottawa, one of its branches ; and afl»r passing the rapid St. Anne, encamped on an island in the lake of the Two Mountains ; beyond which, by permission, they paddled through the go- vernment canal, in order to escape the dangerous rapid. Long Sault. At the next portage they were entertained by an old dealer, who so warmly entered into their under- taking that he said it was with difficulty that he could restrain himself from bearing them company. it- it i^^ tmrnmnm *' UO: ri ^ 382 Sm GEORGE BACK. Through Lake Nipising they passed into one of the five larger ones, — Lake Huron, and so into Lake Superior, whose deep, clear waters, and abundant fish, well justify its name. But the navigation on this lake is sometimes very f'ingerous, on account of the thick fogs which suddenly envelop the voyager ; and in one of these they were entangled for a time : but after a good many narrow escapes, the guide, in some incomprehensible manner, and without the aid of the compass, contrived to steer them through. So, on the 20th of May, under a salute of guns, the party landed at Fort William ; at which place, in anticipation of the many coming portages, they exchanged their larj'er cnnvjes for others that could be more easily carried ; and Captain Back made a regular distribu- tion of crews and * pieces.' This was a point which it was by no means easy to settle to the satisfaction of the voyageurs, as they well knew, by painful experience, what a vast dif- ference even a small addition to the weight of any package might make: accordingly, a great deal of balancing and disputing went on, as the Captain made it to be understood that nothing then settled could afterwards be altered. Their next encampment was at a spot of extra- ordinary beauty in the neighbourhood of Mountain P'alls, which are but little smaller than those of Wilberforce or Niagara, and even superior to them in respect of picturesque effect. Just beyond this they received, at Savannah portage, letters from England. On the river of the same name they obtained t4^«k. nto one of the 80 into Lake and abundant igation on this account of the ) voyager ; and •r a time: but guide, in some s the aid of the gh. So, on the le party landed anticipation of :changed their be more easily »ular distribu- no means eaay igeurSf&a they at a vast dif- weight of any , great deal of .8 the Captain g then settled spot of extra- i of Mountain than those of •erior to them at Savannah they obtained SAUTOUS INDIANS. 233 from some Satitous Indians an abundance of large sturgeon. For a fish weighing fifty pounds, one of the men only paid a pint of peas ; though it after- waids appeared that the Indians expected some pay- ment beyond that which they named, for when Back's party were taking leave they were suddenly assailed by a volley of fishes' heads and pieces of turf. These Indians dressed their hair in plaits, orna- mented with feathers, and wore brass rings in their ears and on their fingers ; but although they had evidently been in the habit of trading with white people, they went, during the summer, almost naked. On the 6th of June they had reached the bottom of Lake Winnipeg ; but as Governor Simpson, who was to meet him there, had not yet arrived. Captain Back was obliged to, content himself with making observations for the dip of the horizon in the interval. On the lOth Mr. Simpson came, and his report of the assistance to be provided for them was very encouraging. In paiticular, — in order to induce certain desirable persons to accompany them, they were promised early promotion, and an increase of salary at once. But, notwithstanding all that could be done, it was evident that it must be a work of time to reach the sea ; and, indeed, few of the party even hoped to do so before the summer of 1834. The Captain's im- patience was, however, fully equalled by that of the poor voyageurs, who, in addition to their heavy work, had to bear, while on land, the dreadful tor- ment caused by mosquitoes and sand-flies, which ^1 i i I'M iiU 234 8111 UEOnOK HACK. came in such myriiula that all defence was injjws- sible: and sometimes caused the blood to stream down their faces. So all parties were anxious to get afloat once more ; and having embarked on the lake they reached its opposite end on the 17th, and were gladly received at Norway House, where they suc- ceeded in hiring men, though at a very high rate of wages. Here the real journey was to begin ; and here, therefore, Captain Back entrusted the command of the boats, containing the chief part of the heavy lug- gage, to Mr. King, and prepared to go on himself, as soon as he had completed his crew, in search of the Thlew-ee-Choh river. On the 28th of June he was able to leave Norway House, proceeding in a light canoe, and with a heart ' full of hope and joy.' In his journal he called this 'a happy day for him;' 'for now,' he says, 'he was in a fair way to verify the anticipations of i^is frjends:' and, he added, that his spirits were raised to a more than ordinary pitch of excitement. It was his first great object to push on to the Atbabaska and Slave Lakes, and on his way to ascer- tain, if possible, the direction of the Thlew-ee-Choh river. A strong gale, however, obliged him to land and wait awhile ; arid as ' a moody fit was gathering,' he took his gun and plunged into a thick wood, until the weather became calm. However, next day he over- took Mr. King's boats in Sturgeon River, which is one continuous rapid, and beheld them ' sometimes, encn was iiiipoH- blood to stream re anxious to got rked on the lake e 17th, and were where they suc- a very high rate legin; and here, the command of of the lieavy lug- go on himself, as in searcli of the to leave Norway and with a heart nal he called this he says, 'he was 3ipations of i>i8 jirits were raised iitement, push on to the liis way to ascer- 3 Thlew-ee-Choh him to land and 18 gathering,' he k wood, until the ext day he over- River, which is iem * sometimes, I'OUTAOK LA HOfHK. 335 unable to resist the impetuous force of tiie current, swept back ; at others, suspended on tiie arched back of a descending wave, struggling and labouring, until again in the shelter of a friendly eddy.' They were, however, working safely and steadily, »?> he saw at a glance : nevertheless, his own frail canoe, witii its motley crew of English, Canadians, Metifs (half- breeds), and Indians, glided quickly past them, under the wonderful guidance of De Charloit, a Metif steersman. On the 21st of July, after passing through some small lakes and portages, they arrived wearied, foot- sore, and neai-ly maddened by the attacks of their tiny persecutors, at Portage ha Roche, a high ridge of ground, where, after labouring tlirough thick woods, they came suddenly out on to a wondrous prospect — alargeextentof country, all in its summer dress, lying spread out below them, at the distance of a thousand feet. Even the most jaded of the party stood here a moment, lost in silent astonishment ; but Back had passed this romantic spot twice before, and all his desire now seemed to be to get on. On the borders of Little Lake they were abliged, however, to encamp ; for the men were utterly ex- hausted. Disposing quickly of their burdens they threw themselves on their faces, and remained for an hour perfectly motionless. Then the canoe was re- gummed, and all embarked again. At Pine Portage, on the other side, they obtained a welcome addition to their number in the person of fj5 r" 236 SIR nEORGE BACK, Mr. M'Leod, wliom Governor Siinp«on hud go much deaired to Join thera ; and his help was quickly found to be moat valuable, as they soon met with some Indians, from whose old chief, 'the Camarade de Mandeville,' as he was called, they hoped to obtain intelligence respecting their route to the river ; and Mr. M'Leod soon showed them that he knew the way to manage him. A formal meeting, commenced by the Indians' beloved social puff, was convened ; and patiently did Mr. M'Leod listen to his long stories, until at length the Camarade was induced to sketch the position of the Thlew-ee-Choh, and the river which he called the Teh-Ion, or Little Fish Rivor, which ran parallel to it, and by his account was far safer. It was afterwards found all along the route that the Indians had everywhere the same abhorrence of this Thlew-ee-Choh ; and the Camarade at length impatiently declared, that ' if the Great Chief cv- sisted in going by it he must travel alone, as no Indians would accompany him.' Afterwards the reports of other Indians were taken ; and, much perplexed by their conflicting ac- counts, Back determined to go himself in search of it : so, leaving five men to escort Mr. M'Leod to the east part of Slave Lake, where he was to prepare them winter quarters, and saying that he might be expected in September, he embarked once more on the lake with four men, after having left written di- rections fi,r Mr. King, to be delivered to him when he should come up with the boats. ^ va son had so much as quickly found met with some he Camarade de hoped to obtain i the river ; and it he knew the by the Indians' nd patiently did i, until at length ch the position which he called lich ran parallel :r. g the route that ame abhorrence larade at Ipngth rreat Chief ^ci'- 'el alone, as no r Indians were • conflicting ac- lelf in search of . M'Leod to the was to prepare at he might be i once more on left written di- }d to him when PORTAGE ON IIOAHFROST lUVER. 287 It was now the Utli of August, and on the 19th, having passed under mountain heights of Alpine (grandeur, they reached the entrance of the stsep and rocky Hoarfrost Kiver; and after a most fa- tiguing journey of a week, through several little I*; Portnge on HoarfVoat River. lakes and over many portages, they landed ; and, on ascending a very high hill. Captain Back saw before him an immense expanse of water, in which were many small islands, and which he named Aylmer Lake, after the Governor-General of Canada. -.-tlWWWWtflWWiftrWilwaWIIIWMIiWW 238 HIR OEOI((JK HACK. Several paitioH of IndiunB h;ul liofti panwod in the latter part of tlie w,'>,y, and soiue iiud boi-n induced to accompany (liom; so from thin lake Maiifelity, the iuterprt'ter, with throe othor Indians, wore sent on t«) look for the river, Iniing victualled for throe days ; but meantime Jiack himself accidentally dis- covered its source; on which, (hrowinjf himself on the ground, he says lie rapturously drank a hearty draught of its clear waters. The men returned scon after laden witli game, i«nd having found the river ; so this event wa« ctle- brat( d by a draught of grog divide 1 amongst the crew. The Thlew-t'p-Choh has since received the name of Back's River, b> which it is now known. On the Slat of Aa^ tst they embarked on it, and continued to meet, with many Indians as they pro- ceeded up its courKc; among whom were two of these whom Captain Back had formerly known, and wiiO belonged to his old friend Akaitoho's party. They soon came to a series of such rapids as fully justifled the Indians' dread, and which their canoe was too weak to run, in spite of all Cliarloit's skilful management; so they were, therefore, obliged to return to their encampment, having, indeed, been compelled to abandon the canoe, and finish their joiMiey on foot. They met Mr. M'Leod at the junction of a small river with Great Slave Lake, and found that their winter house, Fort Reliance, was almost complete; but that, unhappily, it was constantly surrounded, and the hall almost filled, with crowds of starving Ci-^. imm^BPKsa Ol'I'ORTl'NK ARRIVAL OF AKAITCIIO. 230 if'ti paHWDfl in the k1 boi-n induced lake Madfelify, diann, were sent nailed for throe iccidentttlly dis- s'inp' himself on drank a hearty iden witli game, event wa« c»le- mongst the crew. 3eived the name tnown. irked on it, and iiH as they pro- ra were two of 3rl;' known, and [iho's l)arty. 1 rapids as fully lich their canoe Iharloit's skilful ore, obliged to g, indeed, been .nd finish their ction of a small Dund that their most complete; tly surrounded, wds of starving Indians. Their own stock of provisions was by no moans too large, and they had wished to reserve tho pemmicanand dri.sd meats till they reached the sea; but Captain Back was not the man to turn a deaf ear to the entreaties of hungry people, and ae could never resist the cry of a c' ild for food. The adults, it is true, rarely complained, though worn to mere skeletons ; btit, nevertheless, a strong feeling took possession of them that the various ob- servations made with the scientific instruments were for the purpose of • raising the Devil,' and that this wa« the real cause of the scarcity : so that it was al- most essential to mollify them with gifts. In the end of November 4k»>itvho himself very opportunely arrived, and brought with hi..i a little meat. This curious old man, Indian-like, did not ask after either Captain Franklin or Dr. Richaidsor, though he seemed pleased to hear about them, and to receive little remembrances from them. He was a great assistance to the party, as liis influ- ence helped to maintain order ; and with him some of the party were at last persuaded to leave the fort, while others went out to fish at a lake, of which one of his Indians had told them. De Charloit and some of the men were also now discharged, according to agreement ; besides it being important to save the pemmican, they were glad to reduce the party. It waa a fearful winter ; yet but for Akaitcho's firm friendship things would have been far worse. He regularly st^irted every morning on a hunt, and, being an excellent huntsman, often procured sup- i.'s .0=' 240 HiR (JEonoK nArK. <**^" j)li»'H. ytill, with (ivory allovitttion, it wjwi n drcadftil time. A (loe|i rncluucholy fixed itHelf on the mind, evMi of Back hiniHflf, in H])ite of all hin effortH to cheer othtTM. TIuh wa« eupccially tho case when, early in April, he learnt that AiigUKtiis, his old and faithful Ewjiiimaux interpreter, had been on hi8 way to jrin him, hut that it wbh apprehendwi that he had been starved to death on Iuh road ; for this intelli- gent young man imd come to be regarded quite aa a friend. A sharp knock at the door on the 2.'ird of April, the anniverBary of their departure from La Chine, terminated thin moody state. The knock was in- stantly follow<;d by the entrance of the man without, who, thrusting an English despatch into the Captain's hand, exclaimed, — • He is returned, sir I ' 'Whatl Augustus? Thank God!' answered Back. ' Captain Ross, sir ! Captain Ross is returned ! ' replied the man. They could scarcely believe the good news, but two extracts from English papers confirmed the despatch now hastily read ; and, ' in the fulness of their hearts, they aasembled together, and humbly offered up their thanks to God' for * so wonderful a preservation.' The whole day was passed in a state of feverish excitement, a treat given to the men, and the joyful occasion turned into a festival. Free, therefore, from this great anxiety, Back ^..i^.„::^...^^„,„Y'riii^\r~ it WM a (irondt'ul elf on the mind, iill hiri oiTortM to tlio fH8e when, itiiH, hJH old and been on liio way iidfHl ihut lie had for thJH intelli- egarded quite an e 23rd of April, from La Chine, knock was in- he man without, tito the Captain'* Jod !' answered SB is returned!' good news, but confirmed the n the fulness of er, and humbly r • so wonderful state of feverish I, and the joyful ; anxiety, Back back's RIVKn. 241 prepared, as early as posHible, to pumue the othor object of his journoy; and on tho Ist of June, the weather being tlien very Hultry, th«'y Irft, Fort Re- liance — not, however, in n» good Hpirits ii» might be eKpooted, for the news of t lie melancholy ond of poor Augustus had just ))een contirmed, while there wus reason to fear that Williamson, one of the artillery- men, had perished on his way home with the de- spatches with which he had been entrusted. On the 2Hth their boat was launcluMJ on Hack's River ; and soon after they had to take Itiivo of their excellent friends, Mr. M'Leod and the chief Akait- cho. The former, besides being a very good friend in other ways, was a first-rate hunter, and had ))een of the greatest service to the party, which he pro- mised to rejoin in September. The voyage down this rivor was, indeed, difficult. For a time the ice impeded their progress ; but on its breaking up they entered on a course of rapids, lakes, and cascades, such as they had never seen be- fore. A less determined man would, probably, never have reached the sea ; but Back had resolved to do so, and nothing short of absolute impossibility could ever stop him. He had imagined that the mouth of the river would be found in Bathurst's Inlet; and, therefore, its turnings and twistings, eastward and southward, rendered him almost frantic with impatience. The roar of the water of some of the cascades could be heard a mile off; and not a single tree adorned its course for more than five hundred miles. R fc * * \ itma^mmttam iiMW«»MwiiWPiiiin»niiwitriii tmemm mmmm^' 242 SIR GEORGE BACK. Pelly, Garry, and MacDougal lakes being passed and named, they came lastly to Lake Franklin, where they met with some very friendly Esquimaux, who assisted the crew over the last and most difficult portage ; and thus they reached Point Victoria, and Eiqulmauz at the Portage. found themselves on the sea-coast, no very great dis- tance from the farthest points attained by Sir James Eoss. Naming the various points of the western pen- insula of Adelaide, Back attempted, according to '-"" -■ -'-"'''tT i "1 i ' fi it1 i ' i r rmnmntiCTafiQutia «wi». LCK. jal lakes being passed r to Lake Franklin, friendly Esquimaux, [ast and most difficult 1 Point Victoria, and at, no very great dis- ttained by Sir James of the western pen- mpted, a'jcording to RAISING THE BRITISH FLAG. his instructions, to reach the Point Tumagain of Franklin ; but the state of the ice rendered this im- practicable, even to him. A land journey along the coast was next planned and attempted ; but as they sank knee-deep at every step, and had scarcely any water to drink, this idea also had to be rt'linquished. After raising and saluting the British flag, they re- I turned, therefore, by the former route ; that is, up the same wild and turbulent nver. Faithful to his promise, Mr. M'Leod met him at Musk-Ox Lake; and during the ensuing winter Akaitcho proved himself, as of old, a most excellent ally. An hour every other night was devoted to the instruction of the men, and Sunday was always a day of rest. They were not lonely, having again plenty of Indian society: nevertheless, the early arrival of the packet from England was a great treat, and with the first breaking up of the cold all were eager to get away. Mr. King was directed to proceed with the Eu- ropeans to York Factory, at the proper season ; and Captain Back himself, being obliged to return through Canada, left Fort Reliance on the 2l8t of March, and reached Norway House by the end of June. As he proceeded exactly by the old route, no- thing worthy of note occurred on this homeward journey, except a visit which he paid at one place to a mission station amongst the Indians, whidi ap- pears to hdve excited great interest in his mind. • Two hundred converts,' he writes, ' had been 244 SIR OEOROE BACK. gathered into the Church by the worthy missionary during the space of only two years ; ' and it is impos- sible to help regretting that this visit had not been paid on his journey out. For if all Christian men, and some of these Arctic officers we believe to have been really such — if all these, who were thus compelled to pass whole months in the company of Indians and Esquimaux, had but set themselves heartily to the work of preaching the Gospel among them, what grand results might not have been the fruit of the Arctic voyages ! Captain Back bad been absent from England, as we have seen, for two years ; yet his ardour was not abated, and he was quite ready for any other reason- able expedition that might be proposed. One was suggecited almost immediately by the Royal Geographical Society, and the idea adopted by the Admiralty. Its object was to sail direct to Wager River or Repulse Bay, and from thence to proceed, by means of several land parties, to examine the bottom of Prince Regent's Inlet, the coast towards Fury and Hecla Strait, and that to the westward as far as Cape Turnagain. And their L.)rd8hips of the Admiralty, in their instructions, gave it as their decided opinion, that all this might be done in one season ; and * that this Arctic expedition might be distinguished from all others, by the promptness of its execution, and by escaping the gloomy and unprofitable waste of eight months' detention.' WEDGED UP IN THE ICE. 245 i{\'i •thy missionary knd it is impus- it had not been istian raen, and e to have been thus compelled of Indians and heartily to the ig them, what the fruit of the tm England, as ardour was not y other reason- d. diately by the s idea adopted ager River or ;eed, by means the bottom of irds Fury and irard as far as iralty, in their pinion, that all ind * that this shed from all ;ution, and by waste of eight No doubt, if the thing could have been done, Back was just the man to do it : but it seems to be of very little use to make plans regarding time for people who are destined to work in these icy seas. The ex- pedition was certainly distinguished from all others ; but not in the way that these gentlemen expected. It started in June, 1836, and returned not until the autumn of 1837 ; and then without having ac- complished anything! For nine whole months were they wedged up in the ice ; not, however, in any chosen harbour, but on a floating mass of ice, driven about at the mercy of the elements, and without being able to control the ship in the slightest degree. Indeed, for four months of the time they were fixed in a sort of icy cradle. Yet no blame seems to have been attached to any one ; while * the tranquillity and constant good-humour of Captain Back, and the unremitting exertions of Lieutenant Smyth,' are spoken of by Sir J. Barrow as * above all praise.' Captain Back had been told that he might choose between Frozen Strait and the Welcome in pro- ceeding to the point at which his first sea-voyage was to terminate; and he chbse the former, because Parry had been so successful there : while from the Welcome Captain Lyon had escaped with difficulty and danger. On entering Davis's Strait they saw an enormous iceberg, of 300 feet high ; and shortly after beheld the fall and formation of another. This was near Savage Islands, in the neighbourhood of which they were -'..aMiwiwaMMSiffiiaKio 246 SIR GEORGE BACK. hailed by a fleet of kajaks and oomiaks, with the cry of 'Teyma — Peace;' and a curious kind of barter was opened. Some of the native articles proved, however, more unsaleable than their owners ex- pected : as, for instance, children offered in exchange for a few needles, by their own mothers; and a young woman's hair generously offered by its possessor to a rather bald officer, at the low price of a curtain ring I Past Salisbury and Nottingham Isles they sailed smoothly and easily ; and now, keeping to his reso- lution. Captain Back steered to the north of the large one, known as Southampton Island; to the north of which was Middleton's Frozen Strait and Repulse Bay, into which, like Parry, he hoped to sail easily. But Middleton's difficulties were small compared ^ith the troubles that awaited Captain Back; for, by the 5th of September, they were firmly fixed in the ice: the weather was foggy, and tlie compasses not to be trusted. Here, therefore, they wer^ 'thumped about amidst the hummocks of ice, and severely nipped, apparently only about four miles from land; but closely blocked in by packed ice, and not a pool of water visit le anywhere.' * To the mercy of Providence alone,' Back says, • could they look for rescue from their perilous situa- tion ; ' and he adds, * that none but they who have experienced it can judge of the weariness of heart, the blank of feeling, the sickliness of taste, which ^r^-w:'^^! ^Vf^^- ' -9 1 .?* ■■■<, ' '. ■ 's*f r^ 4« .1^ FEARFUL DANOFRS. 247 ks, with the cry kind of barter articles proved, eir owners ex- red in exchange lothers ; and a I by its possessor ice of a curtain sles they sailed ing to his reso- e north of the Island; to the >zen Strait and y, he hoped to small compared ain Back; for, firmly fixed in the compasses humped about jverely nipped, rom land; but 1 not a pool of ne,' Back says, perilous situa- they who have 'iness of heart, of taste, which get the better of the whole man, under circumstances such as these.' All September were they thus whirled about in the vicinity of old Baffin's Cape Comfort, and by the end of it the captain and all the officers had come to the conclusion that nothing more could be at- tempted in that direction. Seeing, then, no prospect of escape for months to. come, they were about to cut a dock for the ship, when suddenly a violent commo- tion took place in the ice ; one large mass coming in contact with a smaller one, and crushing it to powder, while the ship was driven about in immi- nent danger. ' Thus,' says Back, ' ended a month of vexation, disappointment, and anxiety ; to me personally, more distressing and intolerable than the worst pressure of the worst evils which had befallen me in any expedition.' This was strong language for one who had been in the navy since he was twelve years old ; who had seen mucb service in the Peninsular War; been taken prisoner; had accompanied Franklin on his • ' A-'tic land journeys, and made one himself: ,; :«; consider his position we shall, perhaps, i^Ekn^': vi-: him. lu Irst place, there was the hourly danger of wreck i. destruction from the violent collision of the ship with the ice; then the crew themselves had little or no work, and were a constant source of anxiety. There were only a few ' men-of-war men ' among them, he tells ua : * the rest were chiefly un- .'mitiesssmmiiesm BswnaBiiHte 248 SIR Giatjitur BACK. disciplined whale-fishermen, or colliers; ard instead of the hearty good-will, sociability, and above-board manner of regular tars, there prevailed a spirit of suspicion, which was anything but conducive to comfort and quiet.' One man died, and sickness prevailed to some extent : while the cold was intense. The officers, however, did their best both to amuse and instruct the crew; and their eflforta seem to have been not altogether unavailing. But still more alarming circumstances were yet to take place. In February an opening in the floe was noticed ; and soon the crack widened and lengthened until it passed directly through the centre on which the ship stood. A hoarse, rushing sound waa heard ; the ship groaned and strained; and the crashing, grinding, and rushing noises underneath were appalling. At length all communication with the shore was cut oflf by the breaking up of the floes into masses; and though the ship was now in the water, she could not move. The ice formed again, however, under the vessel, and other similar convulsions took place; so that it seemed often little short of a miracle that the ship could live. Sometimes enormous waves of ice, like the side of a house, were dnshei' against the vessel ; and still, even in June, it stuck to the ship in such a manner that she seemed in a mould. HWIM I tWWIM»JMW*) l »l ll t.lW lli aill l B I» - RETURN HOME. 249 ers ; ard instead md above-board liled a spirit of it conducive to evailed to some r best both to teir efforts seem ling. itances were yet oe was noticed ; ^ngthened until e on which the eard; the ship hing, grinding, appalling. At lore was cut off to masses; and ', she could not nder the vessel, •lace ; so that it I that the ship 3, like the side issel ; and still, such a manner Early in July the crew began to work at cutting this away, and making a trench ; and j the 1 1th, when her deliverance was effected, Back was just in the act of descending to his cabin, when a ' loud rum- bling noise announced that she had broken her icy bounds, and was sliding gently down into her own element.' ' It was a sight,' he says, * not to be for- gotten,' and hastily did he run on deck to join in the general cheers. Still, there ehe lay for several days en her beam- ends, so that no one could walk on deck without holding on to the ropes. Quite suddenly, at last, she righted ; and a scene followed which no one who saw it could ever forget. Nothing remained then but to make the best of the way home with the poor battered vessel, which was in such a crazy condition that, had not a favour- able wind blown them quickly to their native shores, the ' Terror' must have foundered before she reached them. So ended this extraordinary voyage, and Captain Back soon after was rewarded for all his troubles by the honour of knighthood ; which, notwithstanding that this voyage waf. an utterly fruitless one, no man ever more entirely merited. He was not on this occasion able to contribute anything towards the completion of the survey of this northern coast ; but that work was finished du- ring the next two years by two gentlemen belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, Mr. Dease and Mr. Simpson. iHBlM>9B!limillll»l|l -• 250 MESSRS. DKASK AND SIMPSON. In 1837 they traced the whole space left between the utmost point westward attained by P'rankiin on hiH second journey, and that to which the boat sent round Icy Cape to meet him by Captain Beechey of the 'Blosson ' had ;.'^ ned, a distance of 160 miles. Encoura^/, si % a.^Bucoess, they started again next year froi.. " ,.»! ( :; :«5denceon Great Bear Lake, and reaching tfc .^ Tease's River, encamped at the mouth of the Ooppe. ^, whence, after being imprisoned by the ice for some days, tliey succeeded in pursuing their course westward past Cape Barrow, round Arctic Sound, for they could not cross its opening; past Barry Isles and Cape Flinders, just beyond Franklin's furthest encampment eastward, where, for twenty-two days, they were utterly blocked, up by the ice. Determined, however, not to go back, and, in fact, unable to do so, Mr. Simpson started oflF with an exploring party on .foot, with a wooden-framed canvas canoe and tent, which they carried with them, in addition to their provisions. Thus they quickly reached Cape Franklin ; and, in three days after, on ascending some high ground, Mr. Simpson suddenly came in sight of the welcome view of an open ocean rolling beneath his feet. He had reached, in fact, to the further extremity of Dease's Strait, and stood on a headland, to which he gave the name of Cape Alexander; while he named the whole country northward Victoria Land. But a short distance, comparatively speaking, now remained between that point and t'he late dis- l i mjui W jlU r PwwwwsswiwjrrT'^jrwTrcBsr S5.W.V«J(«(BI1 ksib™ 'SOX. pace left between (1 by PVankiin on lich the boat sent ptain Beechey of ince of 160 mileH. ley started again Great Bear Lake, ver, encamped at ence, after being 8, tliey succeeded ►aat Cape Barrow, lid not cross its pe Flinders, just pment eastward, re utterly blocked. go back, and, in 1 started off with 9. wooden-framed arried with them, 3 Franklin ; and, ne high ground, t of the welcome th his feet. He ler extremity of and, to which he while he named )ria Land, tively speaking, ind tlie late dis- WONDERFUI .SUCCESSES. m coverier. of Captain Back and Captain James Rosh ; but this line of coast had to be left for a future voyage, as the season was far advanced, and some of the men had fallen lame. The next season happened to be a favourable one, so that they reached Cape Alexander a month earlier than in 1838, and by the 11th of August reached Simpson's Strait ; and, passing Points Kich- ardson "and Ogle, came, on the 16th, to Montreal Island, where a cache of pemmican, left by Sir George Back five years before, was found. Encouraged by this wonderful success, the two enterprising explorers determined to ascertain still more about the country beyond. So round the pen- insula of Adelaide they sailed, past Mctoria Head- land, which they knew at once from Back's drawing, and so, crossing a fine bay, ran about forty miles to the north-east, till they came in sight of what was probably a part of Boothia. The wind changed then, so they were forced to return. By the 24th of September they once more reached Fort Confidence, after a voyage along this northern coast, with which no previous one can be compared in length, having' bravely battled with dangers, and successfully overcome difficulties, of which it is impossible for those who have not expe- rienced similar ones to form any idea. 1 1 >.*i HUH w«69iiMiga Si iBii gBjff »wr-jWi;« ?*r»SBSlll!H,3t^?V«X«|P'*' 259 CHAPTER XIII. 4 SIR JOHN franklin's I A.ST VOYAGE, AND SOME OF THE EXPEDITIONS SENT IN SEARCH OF HIM. Captain Back's melancholy voyage in 1836 seems to have had the affect of somewhat damping the courage of our countrymen ; for it was not until eight years later that another Arctic expedition was proposed. Meantime, however, the 'Terror' had been put into thorough repair, and in company with the ♦ Erebus ' had been again encountering ice and storms in Antarctic regions, under the commarid of Sir James Ross ; while the successes of Messrs. Deaso and Simpson once more whetted men's appetites for fame and distinction: so that Sir J. Barrow's new proposition for one final attempt to find the passage was pretty sure to meet with supporters. It must be remembered, too, that although much had been suffered in former attempts, and some of these had been attended with little or no success, yet jn modern times no exploring party had been lost. Nor was Sir John Barrow the only one who still FRANKLIN H ENTHUSIASM. AND SOME OF THE H OF HIM. e in 1836 Bcems iat damping the it waa not until c expedition was r' had been put npany with the ig ice and etorras ommarid of Sir )f Messrs. Deasc m's appetites for J. Barrow's new find the passage orters. ; altbotigh much ats, and some of r no success, yet had been lost, ly one who still retained all hiH former eagerness about the complete settlement of the old puzzle. He was fully supported by Lieut.-Colonel Sabine, who thought that thert^by great service would be rendered to those scientific subjects to which he had almost devoted his life ; and the enthusiism of Sir John Franklin himself was such, that when a doubt was raised about the propriety of stiiding out so old a man, his friend, Sir Edward Parry, said,— * If you do not let him go, the man will die of disappointment.' Sir John Franklin wa«, however, spared that kind of death. In May, 1845, he sailed as commander of the ' Erebus,' and of the expedition ; Captain Crozier, who had accompanied Sir James Ross in his Antarctic voyage, being appointed captain of the •Terror;' and the transport * Barretto,' under the command of Lieutenant Griffiths, being ordered to afcoompany them. This latter was laden with extra supplies, and was to be sent home as usual from Davis's Straits. The vessels were in every way fitted for the expedi- tion, and each was provided with a steam-engine and screw-propeller, to be used only in case of pushing through ice with an adverse wind. They were pro- visioned for more than three years ; and the two crews consisted of 138 men. The instructions given to Sir John before sailing, directed him to take the course followed by Sir Edward Parry on his first voyage, namely, through Barrow's Straits, Melville Sound, Banks' Straits, and so onward >U W WM^W- i M W HI III I I ■IS i i 954 ■ %'"' BIR JoilV FIUNKIJN. towanlH H.hring'8 StraitH. Thiw coumo. afVer many expcriinentH, HwiniuK t.. promiiM' tho monf fairly. H.. would thuH.aff.T paKHiiiK Harrow's SfraltH.havo on hiH north th.- Purry JhI«h; of which the three prin- cipal are Nortli Devon, CornwalliH, and Melville Igles : and an tho shores of these were generally encompassed by ice, he wiw adviswl to keep close to the southern land ; which, however, it must be remembered, con- sisted of still larger islands, and not of the continent Itself. He had, liowever, the choice of passing up Queen's Channel, between North Devon and Corn- wallis' Isles, and so rotmd the north of all, should the sea appear to be more op«n there, or southward towards the mainland, if he cotdd find a passage. When this (expedition started, it was not expected that news could be received for nearly two years after entering the ice. Lieutenant (Griffiths, of the ' Har- retto' transport, left 'all well and in good spirits:' and the 'Prince of Wales' whaling-vessel saw them shortly afterwards moored to an iceberg in the middle of Baffin's Bay : but from that time a dead silence ensued. It was a terrible silence, without doubt, to the pnvate friends of the party; but, for the first two years, only the expected time of suspense. Wlien, however, the allotted time had fully ex- pired, this suspense, we know, rapidly grew into a fearful anxiety, and, in some hearts, even to agony. But Sir John Ross had returned after all hope concerning him had been given up, and why might not Sir John Franklin ? T—H ' iWJ.Hj.wlUM.nnui.j. i course, ftf>or many 10 moHt fairly. •row'HSfriiitH.have it'll tlio three prin- lul Melville IhIoh : rally encornpftHHed le to the southern remembered, con- t of the continent CO of paHHing up t)evon and Com- •th of all, should 3re, or southward nd a pasHuge. was not expected ly two years after iths, of the ' Har- in good rtpirits : ' -vessel saw them erg in the middle e a dead silence ut doubt, to the for the first two uspense. le had fully ex- dly grew into a even to agony, d after all hope and why might HIH JOHN UK lIAIinsoS. 2S5 80, by the beginning of 184H, it wan fully deter- mintHl that search must be. made ; and ma not only (juiokly, but thoroughly. In three directions it was to be made; and vo- lunteers for tlic service wert^ not wanting Sir .loliu was too well known, and too much beloved, for that; and his old companion, Dr. (now Sir John) Hichard- Hou, was among the tirst to otfer himself. He proposed to go, and was sent in the direction which he knew best — that straight o\er from New York, across by the old trading route, and so down to the Mackenzie's mouth, to examine the coast east- ward, in case the missing party shouhl have made their way so far south. And in company with him went Dr. Rae, lately the conductor of an important expedition sent out by the Ifudson's Hay ("ompany. At the sjime time two other parties were to search in the Polar Sea ; one entering it by Behrinj,'s Straits, where they were to arrive by the Ist July, and the other following exactly in Sir John's own wake, and so proceeding to meet the former. The 'Herald' and 'Plover,' under Captain Kel- lett and Commander Moore, were the vessels destined to enter by the west ; and the ' Enterprise' and * In- vestigator,' under Sir James Ross and Captain Bird, were those ordered to enter by Lancaster Sound : and this last was, perhaps, the most important of the three expeditions. It was hoped that Sir J. Richardson might pos- sibly make the voyage in one season ; but, in case of not doing so, he was directed to make deposits of -j^r ' ^-~,!..j^,,(^.;-.. lit;! i Hi mill ;* '1 ■ ' jii I! i liij Si '■ iil: 256 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. pemmican at various points^ for the use of a party to be sent southward from the ships, by Sir James Boss, next spring. One winter only was to be passed away from home in any case, and that was to be at Great Bear Lake. At the delta of the Mackenzie's mouth bottles were to be buried in a circle, from the point of a broad arrow painted on the signal-post; and land- marks were to be painted white or red, cr with black stripes. Sir John Hichardson was at this time sijsty-two years of age ; but still full of ardour and energy, and of love for his old friend, he pubhed on his way so rapidly that, in three months, he had reached the sea. The openings between those large islands on the northern side of the narrow chaunel which bounds a good part of the northern coast, namelj', Banks' Land, WoUaston, Prince of Wales' and King "Wil- liam's Lands, were to him, he tells us, very full of 'interest. And as Sir John Franklin's instructions had been to steer south-west after passing Cape Walker, he "elt convinced that the ships were pro- bably blocked up in one of these passages. The first point, however, to be ascertained was .vhether any ships had passed along the coast ; and this, during a voyage between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Eivers, he was pretty well able to settle in the negative, through his frequent communications with the Esquimaux. The remaining part of the examination he was obliged to leave to Dr. Rae, who had volunteered NKLIN. CAPTAIiN KELLETT S EXPEDITION. 257 , for the use of a party he ships, by Sir James passed away from home 'ri;Miiiiia;t.Mi ";rv-^"rt-t-f,^\it^t».-^<*^_.i-.».--;.^. mr- 258 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. \ i ■( Four boats were now put out; and tbey and the ships weighed anchor in company. A fog soon, however, came on, and they were separated for a time, and seem to have got out of their direct course ; for hereabouts, but far to the northward, two little islands were discovered by Captain Kellett, which were called tlie Herald and the Plover. Some of the boats were, however, sent on to make their way to some of the stations on the Mackenzie Eiver, but as soon as winter approached the * Plover,' which was a depot ship, went into a good anchoring to await the return of the boats, while the 'Herald' was obliged, according to her instructions, to return to the south, in company with Mr. Shedden and his yacht. This latter gentleman fell a victim to his ex- ertions, and died on the homeward voyage. Sir James Boss had, meantime, left England in June, 1848, with the two splendid vessels, ' Enterprise' and ♦ Investigator,' each at his own special request being provided with a launch fitted with a small engine and screw. He pre- ferred this plan to that of having the machinery attaclied to the vessels themselves. Now the quantity of work appointed to this able com- mander was certainly very considerable. All the coasts, north and south of Lancaster Sound, Barrow's Straits, and Wellington Channel, were to be tlioroughly explored by the * Enterprise ;' and, meantime, the ' Investigator' was to be left to winter in some harbour of North Somerset, in order to be RUMOURS OF INTELLIGENCE. U6» t ; and tbey and my. A fog soon, i separated for a leir direct course ; :hward, two little n Kellett, which lover, , sent on to make )n the Mackenzie ;hed the * Plover,' I good anchoring lile the 'Herald' iictions, to return Shedden and liis ictim to his ex- 1 voyage, le, left England splendid vessels, jach at his own with a launch crew. He pre- f the machinery ves. Now the this able com- isiderable. All rancaster Sound, Channel, were Interprise;' and, be left to winter t, in order to be ready to examine, next spring, the shores of that ice-bound country and Boothia, sending her steam launch to meet the whaling-vessels and to forward despatches home. When the ' Enterprise' reached either Winter Harbour or Banks' Land, parties were to be started in all directions to continue the search. Of this vessel Sir James Boss himself took the command, and with it he seems to have piirposed remaining out alone, even after the second winter, should he not pre- viously have met with the desired success. But when news of this scheme reached the Admiralty in a letter sent home by a whaling-vessel, they imme- diately sent out further supplies, in order to enable the ' Invebiigator' to remain, and so prevent so ven- turesome a proceeding. The large rewsird of 20,000Z. was offered to any successfid party; Lady Franklin adding to this 3000^. more: but these offers were made too late to be carried on that year to the various crews. It was in the end of 1849, when the anxiety felt for the missing vessels was becoming intense, that two gleams of hope flashed across our country, and as quickly disappeared. The first was the rumour of news received by means of a sealed bottle, which had been picked up in Davis's Strait, and brought home. When opened, however, it was found to contain only tidings of a still earlier date than those last received. But before people had recovered from this dis- AMiiS« illf!! m ¥i I m tj ; '1 260 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. appointment, the ' True Love' whaler arrived, whose captain lad learnt from a brother captain that an Esquimi.ux had, on board his ship, sketched four vessels oeset in the ice. iu an inlet supposed to be Regent's Inlet ; and two of these ships he described as shut up for four years, the others for one only. It may be imagined how eager many would be to verify this report ; but the captain was only able to tell them that a solid bar of ice had prevented his doing so himself. It was a mysterious matter ; but the Admiralty soon discovered many inconsistencies in the story, which has since proved to have been an entirely false one. Sir James Ross made his investigation most, carefully, firing guns every half hour, and keeping up a scrutinising examination with glasses when near any shore ; for they hoped, and constantly ex- pected, he says, to see .those of whom they were ' ,» search. In Possession Bay they landed, and found the papers left there in 1819 by hit E iward Parry still legible ! At Cape York a very conspjcuoug ra'^'k wap fixed up, with a paper of v.ritten iristnicli-uid as to where their missing friends might find them or the depots of food. Rockets and blue-lights were used as signals during the night, and everywhere papers were distributed, begging Sir J. Franklin's party, if possible, to make for Port. Leopold in North So- merset, where a large depot of provisions was to er arrived, whose captain that an p, sketched four t supposed to be lips he described for one only. many would be in was only able ad prevented his it the Admiralty ies in the story, been an entirely vestigation most )ur; and keeping • h glasses when id constantly ex- am they were ' j , and found the Iward Parry still iuous jv!>''k wftp ■mt»'U('liv),:.H as to md them or the -lights were used 'erywhere papers mklin's party, if d in North So- rovisions vras to DRIFTINO IN THE PACK. 261 be provided. And there the two ships had to winter ! It is not difficult to picture to ourselves the dis- appointed feeling of vexation witli which the crews had at last to settle down to an all but inactive state. One thing, however, they did during the whole time. Many foxes visited them, and for these Uril'tiiig ill the Puvk. traps '/ere set; and because these creatures roam over a vast extent of country after food, copper collars were fastened round their necks, on which v«iw engraved notices of the position of the ships ami stores. Early in spring many land journeys were made, and as soon as possible they tried to push westward ; but in vain. i 262 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. Scarcely had they got free from the dangerous shores of North Somerset than the ships were caught in a drifting pack, and fairly swept with it back into Baffin's Bay. It was, in fact, a narrow escape from destruction ; and with his enfeebled crews Sir James Ross was forced to givt, up the search and return to England, earnestly hoping that Sir John Richardson had been more successful. This hope was, however, dissipated two days after- wards, when he also arrived. The failure of the three expeditions could not but cast a sad gloom over the public mind. There was no dispoHition, notwithstanding, to give up the Keaich ; and, in a few months, the ' Enterprise' and ' Investigator' were again in readiness to accompany the ' riover' on another voyage, by way of Behring's Straits. i j; The timp was now approaching when ihe labours of many brave men, during a lengthened course of years, were to be broi'ght at length to a successful ter- mination. That result, and that alone, we may safely say, could ever have K'tf Ivd the minds of English- men ; and yet- after >11, it was expedited by the melancholy disajjpearance of one of her bravest sons. Sir John Franklin h;id gone forth in 1845, ardently hoping to be the favoured man ; and though not peimJtted to return to tell his story, he yet, as now appears, succeeded : while, had he never gone out, this North-west Passage might still be a thing to be sou^t for. n the daDgeroiis liips were caught with it back into rrow escape from crews Sir James ch and return to John Bichardson id two days after- litions could not ic mind. There ', to give up the Enterprise' and iss to accompany way of Behring's vheu the labours hened course of ) a successful ter- tie, we may safely inds of English - xpedit^-d by the her bravest sons, forth in 1845, lan ; and though story, he yet, as I he never gone still be a thing NUMKKOUS EXl'EniTIONS. sea Never, certainly, had those icy seas been ho in- dustriously and thoroughly searched ; for never had there been such a motive for searching them : and thus it came to pass that * the matter which was so near Sir John Franklin's heart' came at length to be settled. Nor was there any difficulty, at that time, in finding men or leaders for these searching voyages ; for England was then very rich in men and officers, well qualified both to direct and carry tlsem out. Each previous voyage had been a school, of which the results wore now to be seen. In fact, there were so many volunteers that Go- vernment could not employ them all; and many private voyages were therefore planned: so that, from 1850 to 1854, Barrow's Straits and Wellington Channel became quite an inhabited region of the globe. Captain Austen was there with his two sailing and two steam-vessels, wintering at the extreme south-west of Cornwallis' Island. His was a Go- vernment expedition. Captains Penny and Stewart were there from the merchant s«rvioe, in a port of Wellington Chanuel, with 'the Lady Franklin' and ' Sophia,' equipped by private means ; Sir John Ross himself was there, in the neighbourhood of Regent's Inlet, with his yacht ; and the ' Prince Albert,' fitted out at Lady Franklin's expense, and commanded by Captain Kennedy, was there too: while, not far off, were the American II' ., I iV!; MfMHyaNllMMM 264 SIR JOHN FRANK MX. i\S Captains Haven and Griffin, and their vesat^s, sent by the United States to lend their aid. In the expedition of 1848, under Sir James Ross, there had sailed two lioutenants, who were soon to become distinguished men — the one as the . solver of the old problem ; the other as the finder of the relics of the missing party. The latter, Lieu- tenant M'Clintock, was now with Captain Atistcn : .while the former, Captain M'Clure, was engaged in an expedition of which we shall have to speak almost immediately. But first, let us take a glance at Captain Austen's proceedings. Previous to his arrival, he tells us. Captain Penny had discovered, on Beechey Island, at the entrance of Wellington Channel, three sailors' graves, and an immense number of cases of preserved meats; ap- parently discarded because they had turned putrid. And from these things the captain gathered that, at some time or other, this spot had been the wintering- place of his unfortunate countrymen ; as, indeed, we now know to have been the case ; while the quan- tity f the abandoned food raised very melancholy appiv-hensions as to the state of their provisions. Having passed the winter as comfortably as they could, Captai.i Austen prepared for active operations early in spring ; and on the 15th of April, four- teen sledges, raanned by 104 men, and victualled for six week», started off in all directions ; after having first united in prayer for the success of their undertakings. -^ ] jjmmmm leir vessels, sent r aid. nder Sir Jamos ants, who were —the one as the or aa the finder Phe latter, Lieu- Daptain Austen: was engaged in have to speak 'aptain Austen's 1, Captain Penny at the entrance ' graves, and an ved meats; ap- i turned putrid, gathered that, at a the wintering- ; as, indeed, we while the quan- 'ery melancholy ir provisions, ifortably aa they ctive operations of April, four- and victualled irections; after success of their r '.am SI,EIM)E JOlfllNKVB. 867 Tlie ,s!»idgeH wvre drawn by some of tlun iiiwi, two offii-ers wulki;> intenHe glare of the sun on the ice. When, Jiowever, the wind was strong, the sledgPH wore borne tth)ng A HIwIku Jouruoy. by means of tbe teut-curtains, which were transformed into sails. Their sufferings from cold were intense, and the health of many suffered greatly in consequence. The wine froze in the bottles; and when sufficiently thawed to allow of its being drunk, all kinds of pre- cantions had to be used by the meii to avoid leaving part of their lips attached to the V-ottle. I 2(58 sill .lOlIN niANKMN. Coff.'c wuH found to wurin tliein morn tliiui aiiy- tliiiifrHHt' ; but, by Homo of the partioH, tho bi'8t unti- (lot.) .i^TiiiuHt eoI(J, numely, fresh meat, won not once obtaiiiod. Some were attacked by oplithalmia; gome j^ot their lim' frost-bitten : and on(< officer, George Mul- eomo, C()mnwmd)r of the nledgi- • Excellent,' actually died on duty. Lieut«nant M'tUintock'H party vinited Melville Island, and found them«elve8 better off. It proved, indeed, juHt the privileged upot of the animal creation* in the Arctic Uegions which Parry had dewcribed it. Bimrn. rein-deer, musk-oxen, foxes, haren, and ptarmigan«, abounded there; and though it v/an cmly May, the snow had n>»ltfd from many slopeH, and moHflos and green turf appeared on then) instead. In Bushman's Cove many Indications of Parry's residence still remained; and in Winter Harbour they found the rock engraved by him in 1820, to which they added a record of their own visit. Meantime Captain Penny's party were in the flame manner exploring? the coasts of Wellington Channel ; but with no better success. And by the end of 1851, the strength of all the crews being exhausted, Captain Austen, Captain Penny, and Sir John Ross, returned to England; while the American vessels would gladly also have gone : but they, after being made the playthings of wind and storm, to such an extent that they could keep neither fire nor lights on board, at length became H, oii wliicli tlio Hliip'M uuintt >va« engravt'd. > , Tobacfo waH found a very good trading in'^diuni ; and ovi'rywlieri' tin" |>«'ople Httcinrd {uNuealile and friendly. This differeneo in their niannern fn»ra thoHo of the nativeH met by Kranltlin wu« pn)l)ably owing entirely to Mr. Mierehing'H inHuence. The navigation ahing tluH coant was very danger- ous; and fogH, rapid eurrtsntH, and Hhoals, Honie- tiineH liidden by floe« of ice, kept the commander in a conHtant Htate of anxiety. At last the ' Investigator' beiaine completely iHJset, — grounded, and wan only got afloat again by their trauflferring the deck atoreH to the boatH, one of which capHized in the opc^ration, and thus they lost ehfven caskH of salt meat. Ah far as the eye could reach northward, the ico was driven close together in inunense niasses; the edge of which looked like a line of chalk cliffs. And yet, while they found it difficult to keep clear of this packed ice, the atmosphere became heavy and sultry, dark clonds gathered, and a thunder- storm came on ; the first. Commander M'Clure tells us, that he had ever seen in so high a latitude, namely, 70" N. It was hard work t get along, alid only accom- plished by dint of towing and warping pretty con- stantly ; though, whenever the wind served, the sails m' UK. '■'■■1^';". ■',.;"■ iiiH to Npicad the ir AS tho nntivoH t« of knivoH uihI hIiIp'm nuintt v/t\n \ tradinj; inodiutn ; I'd pciuealilu and •ir inantitM-H fnun klin WU8 probably iiiHiifnce. t wiiH vory dutiger- iid HboalH, Hoinc- it the conitnandiT H-tiiiK' complftely ;t»t athiat ngniti by to the I)uat8, one •II, and thuH thi'y loi-thward, tiie ice icnw inaHses; tlie B of I'lialk cliffn. juU to keep clear ire became heavy , and a thunder- ider M'Clure tells high a latitude, atid only accom- ^rping pretty con- d served, the sails • INVI'-MTtyATott' IN A THAI*. 270 were hoiHted again, and the ' InveHtigator* urged to encoiuilerH with the ice, which Het all the HJiip'w bellH ringing. Although nt)w only the 17th of Augiint, even the ojien Mea wiw U-ginning to be coated over with ice. Next day they pattwd KlaxniiurH iHland, and began to feel the iiiHuence of the INIiukeiizie Kiver on the ocean; for, even at thiHclistanci-, the outpouring of ho large a body of water had repelled tho main body of ice no far to the northward that M'Clure felt templed to run straight acroHH in the direction of Manks' Land. lie Hoou, how«iver, diwovered his miHtake, and a fatal one it hiul nearly [)roved ; for, after apparently making good progrenn, they fouixl that the nhip waH, as it were, in a kind of trap, amid the packed ice, and the fearful thought that this might chisc behind theui, and bo shut them in for ever, tuged the necessity of innnediately retracing their way. Ihit they had nui ninety miles into this niiiss of stupendouH hummocks, deceivere discovered ; so, ind without loss of re's voyage would RKIN-DKEll SKKN IN WINTEIl. 285 Encamping that night on RusseU's Point they lighted a small bonfire, made of a broken sledge and dwarf willow, and enjoyed an extra glass of grog in celebration of the event. One strange thing happened during the winter passed by the ' Investigator' near Princess Royal's Island, which must be related ; while others — be- cause similar to what has been often described in these pages — are passed by ; and it is this. A man named John Eames was walking out on the floe, towards the end of January, when, to his utter sur- prise, he met a small herd of rein-deer. No animals had been seen for a long time ; and he, like all the rest of the world, l)elieved that every living creature had long ago migrated southw.ards. John Eames' tale was good news at the ship: too good almost to be true ! V)ut there were many ready to go and see. Hunters sallied forth in all directions ; but to no purpose ; for no other deer were to be found — as Captain M'Clure thought, be- cause there was not light enough to see them. Later travellers also have thought with him ; and the subject having been pursued, much doubt has been thrown on the subject of these migrations of the animal creation. The great object of the expedition, namely, the search for Sir John Franklin, was not meantime for- gotten ; and no sooner did the sun re-appear, and the weather begin to break a little, than sledge-parties were arranged to go in search. And very gallantly did the men bear the, to them, strange sledge-drawing tm 48u SIR HOHKRT M'CIJfllE. \^ iili! m 8*1 11: ¥' work — the frost-bites, and numberless dangers and liardsbips of the journey ; each in tlie hope of stum- bling on some poor, lost fellow-countryman. Banks' or Baring's Land was regularly examined, and found to be an island ; Prince Albert's Land was crossed as ' far as to a deep inlet in WoUaston's Land, and eagerly those at the ship watched for the open water, which should enable them to proceed on their voyage. Meantime, during all these months, no human beings had been seen, nor any other trace of them dis- covered, except some very old and mosa-grown ruins of former Esquimaux dwellings. Bnt now Lieutenant Haslar, on his return from his southern journey, met with a few, from whom they learnt that WoUaston and Victoria Lands were united ; a fact which was not previously known. Captain I'T'Ciure took great interest in these poor, desolate, and yet often merry-hearted, children of the north, who, since the lull in Arctic discovery, have been thought but little of in Christian lands; and in his journal he more than once expresses his wish that many missionaries, like Mr. Mierching, could be sent among them; as well as that the Hudson's Bay Company could be brought to recognise their duty with regard to them, as representing the British Go- vernment in so vast a territory. Spring passed, summer came, and early in July the floe began to break up. On board the 'Inves- tigator' there was great anticipation regarding that completion of tha voyage, which they fondly believed to be close at hand. But the breaking up of the ice ik=. niE. I)erles8 dangers and I the hope of stuin- mtryman. BankH' cainined, and found jand was crossed as 8 Land, and eagerly open water, which I their voyage, months, no human ir trace of them dis- I moss-grown ruins lut now Lieutenant ithern journey, met rnt that Wollaston a fact which was erest in these poor, ted, children of the tic discovery, have itian lands ; and in expresses his wish lierching, could be the Hudson's Bay cognise their duty ag the British Go- and early in July board the * Inves- ion regarding that ley fondly believed king up of the ice ■■■ f' ' ■.PU ^'^ ^4 m I par.i5Siasms«iS2s^sE^^s iteisSSEAii."- $ ML ■:;^K;r.A--^V^,,.5 ,Lu:-.: p. — m-^^-la2J:^^y.;.,.i^'-ti--^ ,-.!-i1r/-f,t^^Xi-- • 'f- "iJSV^SWIKHPar^MUJtJH,--! THE BAY OF MERCY. 289 only renewed the old dangers of the last autumn. Again, by no possible means, could the ' Investigator' approach tho open sea nearer than a distance of twenty-five miles. At length, therefore, seeing that the season would soon once more close in, Captain iM'Clure determined to return to the moutii of the strait, and, coasting round Banks' Land, attempt the passage that way. Accordingly the ship was put about; and after a number of hair-breadth ' escapes she succeeded in reaching the north-east point of Banks' Land, where she was again beset. While waiting to proceed, the officers landed, and, rambling into the interior, discovered a great number of fossil trees, which evidently formed a part of some ancient forest. They found also many lakes, some of which were full of fish. Struggling along this coast they at length fairly arrived on the shore of Melville Sound, beyond Capes M'Clure and Austen. But the poor, brave vessel's voyage, was nearly at an end. In attempting to pass through some narrow passage between the cliflfs and the old ice, the • Investigator' one night ran ashore ' on a steep bank. It was only by dint of the most violent exertions that she could be floated again, and got into harbour in a large bay ; which, in gratitude for their deliverance, was named ' the Bay of Mercy.' Here the second winter waa passed, and passed on shorter rations ; this having now become necessary, in consequence of their precarious situation. Hap- pily, however, the land was found to teem with rein- U i >■ :J ■■:,\H % SP 190 SIR ROHPniT M'CLURE. deer and hares; tlio former of wliicl» went in herds of Bouietimea a Imndred and fifty at a time. The Hecond Christimis-day wan, therefore, a merry one, in spite' of the dreary situation of thy crew and the howling of the numerous wolves whicli infested that land. Indeed, years afterwards some of the petty ofificers of the ship declared that they had never passed a merrier one. The doctor also had but four trifling cases on his sick list ; and the sporting, which was renewed as early as possible in 1852, helped to preserve this comfortable state of things. One non-commissioned officer greatly distin- guished himself as a sportsman during this season, and was foun(i also to be a man ' good at need' on other occasions. This was Sergeant Woon, an in- stance of whose generous bravery may here be given. There was a coloured man among the crew, who had gone out sporting, woundt^d a deer, and then lost liis way in a fog. Fatigued and half- frozen, the poor fellow lost his presence of mind, and wandered about until he happened to be discovered by Sergeant Woon. But the horror of his situation had quite taken possession of the man's mind. He fell into fits, and could not be reassured by either promise or 3ncouragement of any kind. Induced at last to try and walk a little, he soon sank again on the ground, bleeding at the nose and mouth, and writhing in convulsions. It was evidently vain to think of his saving himself; so he must either be abandoned as the prey of wolves, or Sergeant Woon L'RE. ich went in herds of u time. waM, therefore, a iry situation of tliy iierouH wolvefl wiiicli U'H afterwanlH mww \ declared that tliey ;. The doctor ulmt is sick list ; and the early aw possible in omfortahle state of cer greatly diet in - during this season, n ' good at need' on jeant Woon, an in- vevy may here be Hi among the crew, )un(l»?d a deer, and Patigued and half- esence of mind, and Qed to be discovered rror of his situation i man's mind. He reassured by either ,ny kind. Induced he soon sank again lose and mouth, and ,8 evidently vain to I he must either be s, or Sergeant Woon SKROEA>'^ WOON. 21)1 must drag him home. But lie was a heavy man, and the sergeant had to carry his own rmisket, witli which lie dared not part. He hesitated not, how- ever, but slinging the latter over his shoulder, and taking the man's arms round his neck, he set out towards the slnp. He gained some relief by rolling the poor fellow down every ravine, and thus succeeded in getting to within a mile of the ship; then, finding his own strength utterly fail, he tried once more tins effect of entreaties, that the man would try and arouse himself, but the only reply was a retpiest to be left alone to die. Nothing remained, tlierefore, but to lay him down in the deep snow, and start off himself for assistance, which, happily, he soon met. But when the party who accompanied Woon returned to where he had left his companion, they found him stitF and rigid, with his mouth so tightly closed that it had to be violently forced open in order to administer restoratives. His life was saved after all; and seldom perhaps has any life been saved under such circumstancea. Early in April, Captain M'Clure determined on crossing the ice in a sledge, and paying a visit to Melville Isbnd, where he hoped to find some of Captain Austen's ships, which might, he thought, be able to give them assistance. By the 28th they reached the spot where Parry had left his monu- mental stone; but, to their bitter disappointment, they read also thereon the addition inscribed by Lieu- - i- i 1 ■m^:'mKmm>^.- KIR BOBEIIT M'CLURK. II", 1 (ji.- w i i tenant MTlintock, who liad conductod to the spot one of the Mlcdgc-partied sent on by Gaptuin Atuten. Thin hope having, therefore, vnniHlied, they re- turned apfftin to the Bhip, where all were Btill well, and fotind that to their stock of proviHions had l»een added during their absence twenty hc^ad of fine deer. Mercy Bay had proved, indeed, a good harbour Molvlllo Inland. for them, and had sometimes yielded them three fresh meals a-day. And yet, by the lOtli of May, scurvy had made its unwelcome appearance among the men ; and notwithstanding all the care of the doctor and captain, it continued to make progress. The next summer was a dreary one, and less game wa« shot, so that not until the stock of venison was exhausted did Sergeant Woon succeed in shooting « «i i» mi» im »iiM,t IJRK. uctod to tlie spot one !!aptuin AiiMten. , vaniMlied, tlit>y re- ! ull worn Btill woll, proviHions liad \)een ty liciud of fine defr. d, a good luirbour yielded them three y the 10th of May, 5 appearance among all the care of the to make progress, reary one, and less tlie stock of venison 1 succeed in shooting TWO PAIITIK.S TO 00 H<>MK. 2i):\ nome tine miiHk-oxcn, who»i« flt-nh yiolded (!47 llic of good food, for which all were grutoful. Until nearly the end of AugUHt there wiw not oven a hope of getting the niiip into optn water ; and that hope Hoon died out l)y thf duHing up again of the one narrow open lead of water whicli had ftppeari'd, and hy the fulling of the temperature. It now iH'cauje a pn^HHing ([UfHlion whether or not the Hhip should bo abandoned ; jw it wu« doubtful how long the crt-w could hold out on their present store of provisions, and all were thinner and weaker than they used to Ik;. Captain M'Clure, however, determined himself to stick l)y the ship to the very last; so, aftt-r due deliberation, he assembled his men, and told them that in April two parties should go home — one via the Mackenzie Kiver, and the other by Beochey Island, where Captain Auften's notice at Melville Isle told them they would find provisions, and a bout with which they might gain the Danish settle- ments of Greenland. Meantime he would stay himself, with thirty of tho strongest men, spend a fourth winter, and then retreat on Lancaster Sound, ehould no help have previously come to them. All the men acquiesced cheerfully in this ar- rangement, and so, much in the same manner a< before, passed this third winter ; except, we must add, that less game was caught than during the last. When much hard work had to be done on their present short rations hunger was felt, it is true ; but . ' ,'i W LWgH w mw.a ■s^/^iis**^ ^94 SIR ROBERT M'CLURE. "1 when once shut in during the actual winter, and with little to do, the 'health of the crew, to some extent, improved, and the most praiseworthy good- humour still reigned on board. April came ; the preparations for the two jour- neys had gone on, and all was now ready. The poor sickly fellows were trying to brace themselves up for the Journeys, which were certainly their only hope of escape — though a poor one it was, after all; and those to be left had been giving into their comrades' charge the letters to wives, mothers, or friends, who probably were even then mourning them as dead ; while their iron-hearted captain had been endeavouring to cheer up the spirits of his whole crew, just then depressed by the occurrence of the first death, when the most extraordinaiy and entire change in the state of affairs took place. The captain and first lieutenant were walking near the ship, and talking of the possibility of digging a grave for the poor fellow who had just died, in ground which was so hard frozen, when suddenly a man was perceived coming towards them, who appeared unlike any of tiieir own men. Feeling certain, however, tb-'; no others were near, and supposing that some one had been trying on a new travelling dress, they continued io advance while Rtill conversing together. A strange figure he was, with a face black as- ebony^ gesticulating like an Esquimaux, and shouting :n a jaanner which biought the two officers to a stand-fitill. RT M'CLURE, .' ing the actual winter, and lealth of the crew, to some le most praiseworthy good- board, iparations for the two jour- all was now ready. The trying to brace themselves ch were certainly their only a poor one it was, aft«r all; ad been giving into their itters to wives, mothers, or were even then mourning ir iron-hearted captain had iheer up the spirits of his epressed by the occurrence 3n the most extraordinary the state of affairs took st lieutenant were walking cing of the possibility of poor fellow who had just was so hard frozen, when jerceived coming towards ike any of tiieir own men, •, th-'; no othjrs were near, e one had been trying on a hey continued io advance ether. A strange figure he as- ebony^ gesticulating like uting fn a jaanner which to a stand-still. T" THE RFSCUE. 295 At length the young fellow came near enough for them to hear his words. ' I 'm Lieutenant Prim, late of the * Herald,' and now in the * Resolute.' Captain Kellet is in her at Dease's Island.' And such a rush took place, and such a grasp- ing of hands followed, as probably Lieutenant Prim would never forget. The news spread like- wild- fire; sick men leapt from their beds; workmen dropped their tools ; and all pressed forward to learn how relief had come, and to meet the two dog- sledges which were following on their visitor's steps. We must now explain how all this was brought about. Captains Eoss, Austen, and Penny had been unsuccessful in their efforts, as has been stated some pages back ; but Lady Franklin could not be satis- fied, nor could she rest until another expedition was resolved upon. There were also now, not one, but two missing expeditions to search after, and others to be anxious about beside Sir John and his gallant crew. Others, therefore, besides herself, were urging this matter on, and amongst them, Mr. Cresswell, whose son was with Commander M'Clure. This gentleman not only rightly judged of the course taken by the ' Investigator,' but also as correctly conjectured whereabouts she then lay, as well as that some of her crew would visit Melville Island. His letter addressed to the Admiralty decided the matter ; and it was determined to send out four more ships, under the command of Captain Belcher ; ^ SIR KOBERT M'CLURE. two of which were to proceed up Wellington Chan- nels and two direct to Melville Island. These latter vessels were commanded by Captains Kellett and M'Clintock, and very promptly they fulfilled their taflk. They went, and formed a depot, but found no cairn or notice of M'Clure's party having preceded them, and unable to do more that season, they returned to winter quarters ; but were no so(>ner settled down, than Captain Kellett beg-an to send out parties to scour the country. One of these visited Winter Harbour, and on a close inspection of Parry's famous sandstone rock a new inscription lu^i, their astonished eyes ; and they C'jjld scarcely credit their senses when they read of Commande'- M'Clure's visit, of his having really accomplished thepas^agw. and of his present position. It was, however, too lat« to proceed that season ; and they feared that before they could reach Mercy Bay in the spring, the crew of the ' Investigator' would already have left it ly some other way. We have seen that the relief was, notwithstanding, in time, and that by this means the lives of manj brave men were probably saved. The sledge-journeys might now be abandoned, and almost the first thought was how the good news could be most quickly forwarded to England. It was ;»oon decided to send Lieutenant Cress- well on to Beechey Isle, with this view ; and there, fortunately, the 'Phoenix' happened to touch, so that he very soon had the honour of presenting his despatches. THE 'investigator' ABANDONED. 297 jllingtoD Chan- Island. These !:!aptain8 Kellett r they fulfilled i a depot, but i's party having ore that season, were no socner gan to send out rbour, and on a mdstone rock a eyes ; and they en they read of having really resent position. !ed that season ; Id reach Mercy ' Investigator' ther way. We itbstanding, in I of manj brave be abandoned, how the good ;d to England, jutenant Cress- ew ; and there, i to touch, so presenting his It was on the 7th of October, 1853, that the tidings thus reached the Board of the Admiralty. Having now obtained supplies for his men, Compiander M'Clure earnestly desired to remain with his vessel until she could be got out of the ice. But he felt obliged, before coming to any de- cision, to submit the matter of the men's health to a medical examination, and the report was so un- favourable that he felt himself compelled to abandon the vessel and return home with all his men. When this much-enduring orew and its com- mander reached England, they found the nation almost engrossed wiib the Russian war ; and many of them, therefore, felt that the honours which they received were hardly proportioned to the sufferings which they had undergone, or o what they had accomplished. Commander M'Clure, however, received his com- mission at once, and it was dated back from the day of the great discovery; as were also those of some of his officers. Nor was it long before Her Majesty conferred on him the customary honour of knighthood. The question next to be taken into considera- tion, waa that of the reward of 10,000^., offered by Government to the first finders of the passage. And it might have been expected that this would have been immediately decided in favour of the * Inves- tigator's' crew. But a letter addressed to the Government by Lady Franklin, who was naturally : ? ' i' ■ \ p\--^ mmm I mti^t^ SIR ROBERT M'C'LURE. jealous for her Imsband's fame, caused some little delay. She argued that, until his papers came to hand and his course had been traced out, it would be impossible to decide to whom this honour belonged. This plea was admitted, ana after passing a high encomium on the courage and zeal shown by Sir Robert M'Clure and his men, a committee of the House of Commons at length decided that the ' In- vestigator's ' crew having discovered a north-west passage, merited the 10,000^. as their just reward. The uncertainty of Arctic voyages was after- wards shown by the result of Captain Gollinson's voyage. His ship, the ' Enterprise,' notwithstand- ing her superior sailing qualities, did not succeed in rounding Point Barrow during the same season as did her consort. The next year he followed exactly in the ' In- vestigator's ' track, as far as to the Pri'ace of Wales' Straits, but neither was he able to carry his vz,„^i that way into the ocp?.n. He wintered m 1851 on the western coast of Prince Albert's Land, and in • 1852 in Cambridge Bay, U> the north of Dease's Strait, and while explo'-ing the eastern coasL of Victoria Land he caroo on traces of Dr. Rae's expe- dition of the previous year, and also bought from the Esquimaux some articles which he believed to have belonged to the 'Erebus' and 'Terror.' Captain CoUinsou returned by the same wav that he had come, afiber passing a third winter on the north coast of America. MHUMMHWW ised some little papers came to i out, it would 1 this honour ifter passing a . zeal shown by )mmittee of tlie 1 that the ' In- l a north-west just reward. ges was after- ain Gollinson's ' notwithstand- not succeed in iiame season as ly in the ' In- ri'ace of Wales' arry his ^'z,atii ei in 1851 on Land, and in • rtb of Dease's 3tern coasL of Dr. Rae's expe- > bought from h he believed and 'Terror.' ame way that winter on the NEWS FROM DR. RAF. 990 It was, of course, for the assistance of his vessel, as well as of that of her consort, and the Franklin expedition, that the four ships under the command of Sir Edward Belcher and Captain Kellett had been sent out from England. These had all, more or less, got into difficulties; but as they were nothing compared with what other crews had endured, the surprise of the ' Investigators ' was great indeed, when they found that, contrary to the opinion of all his officers, and in spite of the remonstrances of Captain Kellett, Sir Edward Belcher was determined to abandon all four vessels, as well as the * Investi- gator,' and crowding all the men on board of three depot and store-ships, to return at once to England. The result of such a step was, of course, that a general feeling of gloom and depression filled the minds of all interested in the still missing crews; and a court-martial sat to examine into this conduct of Sir Edward Belcher. • Just at this moment, however, news arrived from a quarter whence they were least expected. Dr. Rae, lately the companion of Richardson, haAang been appointed by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1853 to complete the survey of the western shore of Boothia, fell in with a party of Esquimaux in Pelly Bay, which lies in the south of the gulf of Akkolee ; and from one of them he learnt that a party of Kabloonaa — white men — had died of hunger a long way to the west of where he then was, and beyond a great river. But the man said that he had never been there him- self, and could not travel with them so far. Dr. Rae r t U WtffiWimiiMifilglMillllilMIBl mmm^ ■\9 300 SIR ROBERT M'CLUHE. pursued his inquiries, and elicited from different persons other particulars, which led him to helieve that the river spoken of was no other than Back's, or the Great Fish River, and also that these un- fortunate persons were certainly a part of Franklin's expedition. When first seen they were about forty in number, and headed by a man who seemed to be an officer ; they were dragging a boat and sledges southward over the ice. They could not speak the Esquimaux language well enough to be understood; but by signs they made the natives understand that their ships had been crushed by the ice, and that they were going where they hoped to find deer. This was about the year 1850 ; and later in the same season, but before the breaking up of the ice, some graves were found by the Esquimaux, and about thirty corpses, «ome in a tent, others under a boat, and others scattered about. But the most dreadful fact of all was, that from the mutilated state of some of the bodies, as well as from the contents of the cooking-vessels, there was reason to believe that the unhappy men had been reduced even to cannibalism. At the same time there was nothing to lead Dr. Rae to suppose that any violence had been offered to them by the natives ; although some of the articles thrown away by the white men were iii their posses- sion ; and Dr. Rae purchased several things of them : amongst others, a silver star, on which were en- graved the words * Sir John Franklin.' No writingr or papers of any kind had come to hand ; and many u ^ WH t Jt M i iTft i TTi^rii ii inr i WATWi i 'rii t wniwi i iT ii wa THE REWARD. 801 from different I him to believe ler than Back's, that these un- ktt of Franklin's % forty in number, to be an officer ; dges southward the Esquimaux rstood; but by • itand that their , and that they nd deer. This ?r in the same >f the ice, some aux, and about i under a boat, > most dreadful 3d state of some contents of the relieve that the to cannibalism, to lead Dr. Rae )een offered to of the articles iu their posses- hings of them : hich were eu- ' No writingr md ; and many were the treasures supposed to be still lying on the desert ice. While, therefore, to Dr. Rae and his men, was adjudged the promised reward of 10,000^ as the first discoverers of some traces of the expedition, a very general desire was felt to pursue the research still further. Before, however, we go on to relate the successful termination of this deeply interesting inquiry, we must turn aside for a while to speak of an American expedition, which came first in order of time, and which, besides, was one of the most extraordinary and daring on record. ,, , , , M'".^^> :■:»«.. '■ . rl lit? tm fgfftr h 302 ' I • ^" '- , ^ . , ■>,-■ c'l CHAPTER XV. Jj; ^; DR. KANE'S EXPEDITIOy. ' Dr. Elisha Kane, who, under Lieutenant De Haven, had sailed three years before in the first Orinnell expedition, was appointed by the American Admiralty to the command of a new Arctic expedition in 1853. It had for its object, like the first, the discovery of Sir John Franklin's crews ; and though chiefly supported by Mr. Grinnell, it was also very greatly assisted by the generous donations of the well-known Mr. Peabody of London. The plan proposed was to sail straight up Baffin's Bay, and thus enter the Arctic Ocean through what was called Smith's Sound; and this idea seems to have originated with Dr. Kane himself, whose mind, since his first voyage, had been constantly occupied with the matter. He thought that he should thus more quickly reach the ocean ; that he should have tei-rajirma as the basis of his operations ; animal life to sustain travelling parties ; and the co-operation of Esquimaux almost to the extreme north, as it was known that settlements of them were to be found even as hijrh as Whale Sound. m ' nant De Haven, e first Orinnell rican Admiralty edition in 1853. t, the discovery though chiefly so very greatly the well-known ight up Baffin's I through what idea seems to If, whose mind, antly occupied more quickly ter'rafirma as life to sustain 1 of Esquimaux as known that even as high VISIT TO LICHTENFELS. Ml In the 'Advance' brig, and accompanied by only seventeen men, including offieern, Dr. Kane there- fore left New York on the 30th May, 1853. Of tliese, Mr. Brooks was the first officer, Mr. Hayes was the surgeon, and Mr. Sontag the astronomer ; a Dane, named Carl Petersen, undertook to act as inter- preter ; and oa reaching Greenland, an Es(]uimaux, called Hans Christian, was engaged as a hunter, after having first shown his skill by spearing a bird on the wing. . >u ■"■:' In eighteen days the ' Advance ' arrived at New- foundland, and there obtained some stores of fresh beef to add to their rather slender stock. The Governor, also, made them the valuable present of a team of Newfoundland dogs. From Newfoundland they steered for the Green- land harbour of Fishernaes, which is situated on the south-west coast, and is famous both for its dry and healthy climate and for its cod-fisheries. Here their arrival was quite an event; and, accordingly, the whole population came out to receive them. The officers were hospitably entertained by Mr. liassen, the governor of the place ; and from thence Dr. Kane went to visit Lichtenftls, the ancient seat of Greenland missions, of which he had read much. The old house seemed to have been built in the time of Hans Egede himself. It was a sober, old- fashioned building ; and he tells us, that ' it was almost with feelings of devotion ' that he approached it. The inmates appeared to be frugal in their habits, and very poor ; yet of so independent a spirit y ■ ! : 1 , f -^ ■■'•ui-r^j.- niu . . - i^k^^^^ . t.B^at:--.=.-» ■ir^-<\.ii£ia,^ifi^.j^, .^^r"'. 804 DR. KANE. that they could scarcely be prevailed on to accept a Binall prettent of potatoes. They were, however, people of some education and intellifcfence. Much of this Greenland coast is very pictur- esque, especially during the summer season. The Danish settlements have l)een, for the most part, fixed on remarkable points ; and each one is famous for some article of trade. Cliffs, which sometimes assume the grandest forms, and which are composed of variously coloured strata of earth and rocks, with sometimes a glimpse of the red snow between their chasms, edge the coast ; while all the back coimtry seems to be one great exi)an«e of glaciers, which here and there shed off their mighty icebergs into the sea. To these, for want of any- thing more secure, they were at times obliged to fasten the vessel, in order to avoid being beset in the ice; yet it proved, on one occasion, but a sorry alternative. After eight hours' hard labour in heaving, planting ice ->,nchors, and so on, they had scarcely succeeded in, m they thought, securing the ship, wlken a series of loud, cracking sounds above her, and the dropping of a shower of small pieces of ice, excited alarm; and only just time had they to get free again when the whole face of the berg fell, ' crashing like near artillery.' On the 5th of August they passed the crimson cliffs noticed by Sir John Ross, and perceived them even at ten miles off. Next day they reached Hakluyt's Island, with its tall spire of gneiss, which forms a valuable land- 01 >i J I nil uiiiuuinaMmMMUMnaMK! T i on to accept a were, however, lilfence. is very pictur- iT Beasoii. jn, for the most .nd each one is CliffH, which rafl, and which strata of earth of tlie red snow :; wliile all the eat ex])anAe of >ff their mighty T want of any- mes obliged to ing beset in the n, but a Borry ir in heaving, y had scarcely iring the ship, nds above her, 11 pieces of ice, lad they to get of the berg On the 5th of noticed by Sir it ten miles off. sland, with its valuable land- I'UI-USHINd Nt)UTHWAHI». •M)o mark for u long ditttunee round. ' It would,' Dr. Kane observes, 'have formed a fine study of colour for an artist, being covered with this crimsim snow, interHperned with lovely green patches of moss, and now aud then. a piece of the bare brown sandstont'.' On the 7th they passed Cape Alexander, and when fairly within Smith's Sound began to nmke caches of provisions in various places, to facilitate their future onward march, and to build cairns as signs by which others might, if necessary, follow them. Signs of winter were already visible; and though determined to push as far to the north that seanon as possible, Dr. Kano felt that one place must be storwl, to serve as a retreat in case of necessity, and he selected Littleton Islaiul for the purpose. On it the lifeboat, provisions, and a few blankets, were left, while a further depot was made on the mainland. Greatly to their surprise, traces of human beings were visible even here; and from some tombs va- rious little implements were carried away as speci- mens of native ingenuity. E8(|uimaux, not being able to dig graves for their dead, place them in a sitting posture in little cairns, and these they hold too sacred to be disturbed. Keeping to his purpose, Dr. Kane resolutely pressed on amid floes and icebergs, which almost hourly threatened the party with destruction ; and towards the end of the month a storm came on, which greatly increased their danger. For many days the gale blew on ; and when at last it subsided, most of the men were for returning to winter in the soutlu X ,* -.j If f I ^■imm .KM) DR. kanf:. 1 1l It wiiM (ill that thuir mptuin c»)ultl tlo to porMrndf rliPin to iM^rwovoro for a whiU' longer, hikI tlu n Ia) (iHtal)liHli tlu'mw>lv«>H in tlio iiumt uvuiluhhi npol, in oniiT that they might he reaiiy for work wlieu Mpring canio. At lengtli he (leterinined on pro- ceechiig in a hoi't, witii a few njcii, in order to judge whereabout*; wouhi l)c the hent wintering ground ; and he choHo MesHrn. IkookM, Hontag, HonHall, M'dary, Uihy, Hhike, anK«'r, hikI then U) t Hvuiliil)I(; Hpot, y for work wlieu L)riiuni!(l on pro- in order to judj^e riiiff gntiiiid ; and HonHull, iVI'Uary, 1 tlio crew of the of the HtronguHt iifl. ]U;Hid(!H thu hutTiih)-rohc>H for I hiH girdlo full of a Hhcath-knife at ip were taken for the coiuit became to Ijo hauled up vhilo they puHhod 80 eligible as the it waH resolved to Hitherto it hod lit; but now the tints, and a kw very agreeable i I woidd diHapp.tar utober, and much daylight that re- pty the hold, and id. HoHidcs this. they Wfi< ahvady at a Iomh about winter provlnlonM, an no game hiul b.en wen in SniitirH Sound, and they ha*l lonu- out entirrly without the prewrvnl im-atH g.Mcrally uwil ; ho that all their Halt meat had to be iniMiilti'il by u twelve liourH' imnierHiun in an mljoining frenh-water pond, on which the icy covering had to \w broken for that purpoH*'. The Halt tiwij and pickled cabbage were treate«l in like manner. Here, then, in thiu harbour of HeuHnelaer, in the midut of Home little iHlandn, which pntteeted her from the violent anHanltH of moving maHHcn of the ice, the • Advance' was mxtn frozen in, and her crew had to resign theiuHelveH to the long (hirk wint. The sledge was made of American hickory, carefully IBWIIIiii ■ii w P 308 DR. KANE. jointed in its various parts by thongs of seal-skin, so that it had no stiff hinges, but yielded to the least inequality of surface. It proved a very satisfactory little carriage, and was named * Little Willie.' The Esquimaux dogs, which were ir a half-wild state, and much resif nibled wolves, were kept for the long tough journeys, in which their patient en- durance, their speed, and their sagacity, proved invaluable. A larger sledge was used for the heavy parties, which was named ' Faith.' To drive an Esquimaux team is a serious affair, and so fatiguing that Esquimaux drivers tra"el in couples, and change continually. The whip used is of seal-hide, six yards long, with a very short handle of only sixteen inches. It must be used with a masterly sweep, and the driver must be able to hit any particular dog, and to accompany the stroke with a resounding crack, bringing the whip clearly back again ; which, of course, is not easy, as it is apt to get entangled among the dogs and lines ; and sometimes in travelling over the ice the sledge will come to immense rents and fissures, which have to be leapt by the whole team. On one occa- sion the poor dogs failed, and all fell in, so that their drivers had to cut the traces and haul them out, which was done with difficulty. Another time one of the drivers was flung out, and narrowly escaped being drawn under the ice by the rapid tide. This winter was, indeed, a dark one ; and in Dr. Kane's journal we read neither of snow-blink nor aurora lights as substitutes for the sun, though the wi«iJHMi»gni ' m f iij i ,>'ini.!ju T»g? ANE. ABSOLUTE DARKNESS. 309 by thongs of seal-skin, so , but yielded to the least proved a very satisfactory lied * Little Willie.' (rhich were ir a half-wild wolves, were kept for the which their patient en- l their sagacity, proved je was used for the heavy Faith.' X team is a serious affair, uimaux drivers tra"el in iiaily. The whip used is , with a very short handle tt must be used with a •iver must be able to hit o accompany the stroke bringing the whip clearly ourse, is not easy, as it aong the dogs and lines ; ig over the ice the sledge snts and fissures, which lole team. On one occa- and all fell in, so that le traces and haul them iifficulty. Another time flung out, and narrowly the ice by the rapid tide. I, a dark one ; and in Dr. jither of snow-blink nor s for the sun, though the moon and stars often shone out with wonderful bril- liancy. This was only in fine weather, however ; at other times it was absolutely dark ; and men and dogs alike felt the depressing influence of so long a night. Many of the latter soon died, indeed, from an anomalous disease, produced. Dr. Kane says he firmly believes, by no other cause. This disease seemed to be entirely mental, and no amount of anxious care availed to save the valuable creatures. It began with a kind of epilepsy, whicli was soon followed by a state of lunacy, or rather idiocy. The poor animals wovdd bark frenziedly at nothing, walk about in straight or curved lines with the utm^ot perseverance, move about in the most senseless manner, and then relapse into hours of moody si- lence. Generally symptoms of lock-jaw came on before they died. By the time when perpetual daylight had suc- ceeded to this perpetual night, only six dogs remained of the nine Newfoundlands and thirty-five Esqui- maux ; and the men were many of them suffering from scurvy, and generally debilitated. They had occupied themselves as best they could by lamp or moonlight, some in writing, some in drawing or making maps, some in ship- work or in attending to the business of freshening the meats; others in working up the skins into various articles of clothing; others in writing up the journals or books of observations; while chess and other games often finished the monotonous days. The cold, as may be imagined, had been intense, i-ji S ■ .. liiWifmmfiiiiiiiiiiWiiiiBiiiiimwiiiti 1 .ill. mmsmm- ^' Wi",: 310 DUt. KANE. the thermo,netor8 ranging from 60° to 75° below mtigated darkness,' which niade the midnight of Sir Edward Parry i» lat. 74° 47', so that Lb a winter was probably never passed b; any Europeans more -n ':k'''"'"''^^ ^'"^« coast becamfon" more .«,ble, the ice-foot, or belt as Kane prefers to caU It, wa« perceived to have undergone many changes. This ice-belt consists of an immense Tone of ice, ^incli extends all along the shores from the highest latitudes, though somewhat reduced in thick! ness in summer, it never disappears. It served our ^avellers for a kind of high ro^, and was aTsom" seasons a tolerably level one soon^as'ThT"''' ^^^"^ ''''^' «"^ ^"^^ ^-^t'"" '•^ soon as the spring appeared; and in the end of March preparations were making for a genera advance, when tlie appearance of three of heir number, who had been absent, startled the worke m the cabin. These were Messrs. Sontag, Oh sen and Petersen who, swollen and haggard, and scarce"; Pour of tlieir companions were still in the ice unable to come on, being frozen and disabled tJey notd^f t T "'" "^ '""^ "'« news, but coJd mtht T f V^"'/'" "'^ '^^^^««» '- ^»^i«h they ttlll t". ' ^"^ ""''^ «"^^°"3^ «»king fast lost, HO, while a hasty meal was being got ready, and " ■ -" l ili ^ i j l JHW w n i g wy t iii. iyj i ^ i )^ . ,, . ., , . . ,^ ,-, , -»?i>i •fa««v S()° tu 75° below Pply of fuel. By Kich * the state of tlie inidniglit of , so tliat suob a y any Europeans. )a8t became once 1 Kane prefers to indergone many an immense zone shores from the 1> ; and in the ■educed in tbick- s. It served our nd was at some t and return as in the end of for a general three of their led the workers 3ontag, Ohlsen, trd, and scarcely alarming story, ill in the ice, disabled: they news, but could 1 in which they y sinking fast instant must be got ready, and ■i mtmmmm !*> I' !¥■<' 3 Vf If:- ":':afAcg$nTii «;i DuaMtijftiiiiiiiijwauwiii THE KEStUE PARTY. 313 • Little Willie,' a tent, &c. propared, OliLsen, the most conscious of the party, having had some refrewh- nient, was strapped on to the sledge in a fur biig, wrapped in dog-skins and eider-down ; and Dr. Kane with nine men set out. The temperature was 7^** below zero, and they knew not wliich way to go. Mr. Ohlsen fell asleep almost immediately, but soon awoke in a confused state of mind, and could give no help. There was nothing for it but to abandon the sledge and dis- perse in search of footprints ; but it was absolutely requisite to keep constantly moving in order to avoid freezing; and so they continued for some hours, till Mr. Ohlsen, being a little recovered, was liberated from his bag and set on his feet : but now some others of the party were seized with trembling tits and short breath, and Kane himself fainted t"-' '? upon the snow. And so for eighteen hours, withoi.v food, they wandered on, until suddenly Kane ex- claimed that lie thought he saw a broad sledge- track. They followed it, and soon came, first to footsteps, then to a small American flag hung on a hummock, and then to the tent close by, where lay in the darkness the four poor fellows stretched on their backs, whose burst of gratitude was felt fully to repay every one for the twenty-one hours' march. The tent would only hold eight men ; so those of the fifteen who could not scjueejse in were obliged tp keep from freezing by incessant exercise. A two-hours' sleep for each of the two parties was all the halt that could be managed ; and then the sick were carefully i ss^- mmmmmmi m^ ill T" 314 DH. KANh:. >^^ sewed up m fur« and packed in a ba! of buffalo r.je8, the whole being tightly lashed together and covered over so ,ia only just to leave breathing-room ; and fhe party 8tart«.l back again. Strange to say they marched on for six hours cheerfully; but at the end of tlmt time all began to feel a most alarming failure of strength ; and some of the poor fellows even entreated to be allowed to sleep.. No efforts or commands indeed sufficed to hinder it; so with much difficulty, for they had scarcely strength enough loft, the tent was pitched, and all who could be crowded in were left under Mr. M'Gary's charte Kane himself, with one companion, pushing on to' the half-way tent, in. order to t.iaw woter and pemmican by the time the others came up For four hours these two walked on, never suffering themselves to cease talking, that they might keen themselves awake, yet scarcely knoxving what they said or did, or why they took any particular direc- tion. In fact, neither of them was in his right senses; and when they reached the tent they iust crawled into their sleeping-bags, and slept on Qreamily for tlie next three hours. When Dr. Kane awoke, his long beard was frozen to his buffalo-skin • and his companion had to cut him out with his jack-knife The others came ^r. ;^ due time much better, and after partaking of the food which had been prepared, all proceeded again on their way, and now comfortably, under a clear sun and without wind. Ifc was desperate work, notwithstanding, to per- form the rest of the journey. They lost their strength "samammmmmmr Mi a heil of l)ii■ strength enougli 11 who could be I'Gary's charge, I, pushing on to .law wpter and came up. For never suffering hey might keep wing wha* they particular direc- as in his right 3 tent they just and slept on When Dr. Kane (lis buffalo-skin ; n out with his due time much which had been , , ir way, and now ithout wind, :anding, to per- it their strength PKOPLE HOLLOAINO ASHDUE!' 315 and their self-control ; and to assuage their thirst could not resist eating 8no>v, though it burnt and bliMered their mouths, and caused many to become speechless. When they reached the brig, none of them were in a sane condition ; but all, under ju- dicious treatment, recovered, except two, who died in spite of every effort to save them. Some, how- ever, were obliged to have parts of their feet ampu- tated. One of the poor fallows who died was seized with lock-jaw on the day before his death. It was whilst watching beside him that they received their first visit from the Esquimaux. ' People holloaing ashore 1 ' cried the deck-watcli ; and there they were truly, dotting the snow in considerable numbers, and vociferating, ' Hoah, ha, haP ' Ka, kaah!^ ' Ka, kaahr but in no friendly tones : indeed their violent gesticulations were at first alarming. It was soon perceived, however, that no weapons were in their hands : and Dr. Kane therefore, calling Petersen to be his interpreter, went forth unarmed to parley with them. A tall, powerful fellow, with a swarthy skin and jet-black eyes, came forward to meet him; and others, at his signal, soon crowded round, seemingly in a perfectly peaceable mood ; so, after awhile, many were admitted on board ship. They had sledges drawn by dogs, which they managed ad- mirably, and were a very strong set of men, some of them able to combat singly with the Polar bear. The first who came was named Metek ; he was dressed in a sort of fur-hooded jacket, with l)ear- : r mmmi mm mm^' 316 nn. KANt:. Hkin breecJies, and Iwofs in wliidi were concealed knives. He and liis companions remained for a considerable time on board, examining everytliinic stealing wliatever they could, and laughing loudly at the Ignorance of the whit« men, Iwcause they could not understand their language. Tiusy saw a great Uetek. deal of these people that, winter; and though at first they were shy and suspicidus, yet they afterwards l)e- came the firm friends of the whites, Dr. Kane takinP- care, from the first, to impress them, by eveiy possible means, with an idea of his own and his companions' ^ismmmmm ^^'"■''^^ffSS*M^k^l' "^ " FOLLOWING TIIK KHQIIMAUX. m h were coiiocaled i romninetl for h iiiin^r everything; iiughing loudly at ecause they could rhey saw a great d though at first !y afterwards l)e- Dr. Kane takimar )y every possible his companions' superior strength, in order to keep up a salutary awo in their minds. As soon as the ice broke iip a little the Esqui- maux took their departure : but they were afterwards met with again. In fact, it was sometimes found advisable to follow in their track ; as they always knew where food was to be had. The whole country wiw, indeed, as well lown to Ihem as a si .?p v-alk is to a shepherd ; ley noted every change of wind, or season ; studied the heavenly bodies ; and could even predict certain changes in the weather : while their advice about ' unts was often invaluable. The flesh of the walrus seemed to form their principal food: but more to the south they also procured whales and sea-unicorns. During the summer many parties were sent out from the bay in which the ' Advance' was impri8or?d ; one, led by Mr. lionsall and Mr. M'Gary, was sent to endeavour to surmount an enormous glacier, named after Humboldt, which lay at twelve days' journey from the brig, in a large bay, which they named after Mr. Peabody: but that proved perfectly im- practicable ; besides which, as the disagreeable discovery was then rotlde that the bears had been committing great depredation on the depots which they bad made on the way, they could not remain qi^t long. These creatures also more than once interrupted their progress during their marches: and on one occasion a monstrous fellow, t'o their great dis^nist, paid them a visit in the tent when all were asleep. tf'^t^r? "if- tamrnktm i ai8 HR. KANK. after n long (fnyV j„„r„.y. a Hcmtcl.ing n«iH« on the Hnow o„.«ido tirnt diHturhed Mr. M'Sary ; and r<.UH,„g .„,„HeIf, 1,0 p,.rceived that the hear ZSk- 2-nd the tent. A loud cry aroused Iuh com- panionn; l,„t not oefore the creature had, to their Ju'rror, preHeutev:'ss?,3j^h*^ n:^r^: •!;-5Ks ^^dJ>i<«.-V :^: •32^: 322 PR. KANK. and f'"iy 1 1 ail neither fuel nor provisions to enable them wifely to do so. But Dr. Kane could not as yet think of deserting the brig, and therefore formed a plan for communicating with Sir Edward Belcher's squadron (m Beechey Island. He started with five- of the strongest men in an open boat; a kind of navigation especially dreaded in tlie open sea by experienced seamen ; but they soon encoxintered storms, such jvs they had not been prepared for. The ice also blocked them ut ; and it wius found impos- sible even to reach Ca, f> Parry : so there was no alternative but to return to the brig and put up a beaon, in case any rescue-party should be looking for them. On arriving at the brig, however, it was found tliat many thov ght an escape overland possible that year ; and broken down by scurvy as they were, with- out provisions, or hope of provisions, suited to their circiUTJstances, Dr. Kane felt that he had no right to control the men in this matter, and therefore deter- mined to allow each one to act for himself. Tbe residt was that eight determined to stay, and nine to go. These latter went with an assurance given that, should they wish to return, they would be wtil- comed back. They remained away several months — lorg and weary months, too, they must have been — and at length, after having suffered what it wo"ld fill a volume to describe, they were obliged to go back to their comrades. Those who remained endeavoured to accommo- date themselves to circumstances, and to adopt the 9mm mmmftm ^ iwr^-mmjimmii'^m \NK. nor provisions to enable it Dr. Kane could not as rig, and therefore formed ^itli Sir Edward Belcher's d. He started with five n open boat; a kind of led in the open sea by tliey soon encountered t been prepared for. The md it was found impos- Parry: so there was no > the brig and put up a party should be looking af, however, it was found e overland possible that iurvy as they were, with- rovisions, suited to their that he had no right to ter, and therefore deter- act for himself. The nined to stay, and nine ?ith an assurance given urn, they would be wt^I- ed away several months )o, they must have been ? suffered what it wo"ld aey were obliged to go ieavoured to accommo- inces, and to adopt the ■I- . ^; i1 gjni't'BwaMaeiiaaaaiwiii irmstn "•"""""" -'i^rnvsasigs ETAH. 325 habits of the EHquimaux — filth aud extravagaiicb excepted. They thus tried wliether white nieu could live like these people; but the experiment could not be called a successful one. A place called Etah was the regular haunt of the Esquimaux ; and there our party often visited them, and became ac(|uainted with M etek and his relations ; Accomodah, his fat young son ; Paulik, his nephew ; and many others with curious names, and still more curious ways. Dr. Kane once went even so far as to enter one of their tents, and throw himself down amongst the heap of human beings to sleep. The hut was, indeed, e.> hot, that sleep came naturally to him. It was but wven feet by six, and contained thirteen persons , some of whom — that is, the women — were cooking, each in her ' kothok,' slices of meat cut from a walrus. Dr. Kane was always saluted as ' Nalegak,' or Great Chief, wherever he went : and so pleased were they with this visit, that they almost deafened him with shouts. A woman, whose name he translates as Mrs. Eider-duck, constituted herself his attendant, and prepared his breakfast — a lump of boiled blubber and a choice cut of meat These poor children of the North differ most wonderfully from (hose who have become civilized and christianized, as the southern tribes have. If they have no laws, they are certainly bound by their own peculiar customs; which have, no , « i n MB.j».iMWmwwt»MMWif,»inimmiuM' « .M^ 326 DR. KANE. doubt, been those of their ancestors from time immemorial. One of these singular customs is, that of holdmg weeping meetings, not only for the death of a friend, but for that of a dog, the failure of a hunt, the breaking of a walrus-line, or any other' calamity. Mrs. EMur-ducIc They hold theiv angekolcH, or magic-men, in great esteem. These angekoks are the general counsel- lors m time 6f trouble; in sickness they powwow or prescribe; and when death follows, they direct as -S^-A/jslSK^Br! '■"'JiS-S--";" estors from time ir customs is, that >nly for the death , the failure of a ine, or any other [ic-men, in great ;eneral counsel- I they powwow, s, they direct as THK ANGKKOKS. .J27 to the raatiner in which grief is to be aliown. A husband, for instauQC, after burying his wife, may be obliged alwaya to wear his nessak, or hood, or forbidden to eat some kind of food, or even to ab- stain from seal or walrus-hunting for a year. They seem to have but little that can be called, religious belief of any kind, though they evidently do believe in certain supernatural influences. When they were once thoroughly persuaded of the superior powers of the whites, a treaty between the two partiej was proposed by Dr. Kane, in which it was stipulated that certain mutual kindnesses should be exchanged^ and no harm done by either to the other party. This treaty was solemnly ratified ; ' and, to the honour of the natives, strictly kept. We cannot follow the poor travellers through the sufferings of this winter. Getting sometimes a supply of the eider-ducks, sometimes some walrus- flesh, sometimes a little fish, but often wanting food, they struggled through, though not without further losses by death: But when the next June came, there was no doubt as to the duty of abandoning the vessel, and attempting the long and perilous voyage back in boats. When preparing for departure, they received much assistance from their Esquimaux friends, who evidently took leave of them with sin- cere sorrow. Hans, indeed, had already deserted to them; and it is not improbable that they tempted him away. Dr. Kane says also, that he and his companions had received so many kindnesses from them, and had % ''■f. • : n m ^- , 328 DR. KANE. got to know them individually so well, that, as he took leave, his heart warmed towards them. Every birth, marriage, or death, which had hap- pened of late in this tribe, though scattered over Home SIX hundred miles, had been discussed and re- ported to him; for every man knows every other in this tribe: so that scarcely one seemed a stranger o their famishing visitors. The poor people took the greatest pains to instruct them which would be the safest and shortest route; and on the 18th of June the three boats started. Not, however, until Dr Kane had told them what he knew of their southern brethren, of their wonderful and their far happier condition, and tried to persuade them to march southward, season by season, until they joined ^ To this parting address they listened with in- tense interest, and in their turn tried to persuade hun to come back some day, and carry a boat-load of them to the stations; and a happy result of his stay among them would it indeed be should these poor people ever follow Dr. Kane's advice „nH ^* r*l? 'r^ *"•* weary journey for half-famished and enfeebled men-that along the Greenland coast. Plenty of birds were seen, it is true, flying about the rocks along the shores ; but it was not often possible to reach them, and they sufFered much for want of fresh meat. Once they were all nearly lost in a sudden break up of the ice, when they were out searching for game : so nearly, indeed, that it seemed a miracle that any escaped. mm ''^WfflBSflg^^^gggj^BTj.;- THE RETUllN HOME. stt well, that, as he trd8 them. which hftd hap- 1 scattered over iscussed and re- ra every other in 5med a stranger oor people took wliich would be on the 18th of , however, until knew of their il and their far rsuade them to mtil they joined itened with in- ied to persuade *iry a boat-load py result of his )e should these advice. •r half-famished Greenland coast, lying about the t often possible ch for want of iarly lost in a they were out . that it seemed At length Cape Dudley Digges came in Might; and, utterly worn out, they put in for a few days' holiday in a lovely spot, abounding in animal and vegetable life, which they called Weary-man's Rest. Here, surrounded by all kinds of natural remedies for the scurvy, they gave themselves up to enjoy- ment ; and when they put to sea again it was in much recruited health and strength. But their troubles soon returned, and want of food brought on a kind of low fever, accompanied with swollen feet, which made the labour of towing almost ititolerable to them. The large, open, and dangerous Bay of Mel- ville had yiet to be crossed, and .in boats so leaky that they required constant baling to keep them afloa,t. And though worn out by day, yet the men could not sleep when their turns came to take rest. This was the worst symptom of all ; and their com- mander's hopes of escape consequently grew very faint. Just, however, when things looked black indeed, Botne large animal was seen floating, apparently asleep, on a small patch of ice. It was taken at first for a walnis, but proved to be a seal. Nothing of the kind had been seen for some time, and the sight inspired something like hope. Drawing stockings over the oars to act as mufflers, both the boats' crews neared the animal in perfect silence, and in such an intense state of excitement that they could scarcely move their oars. Their lives depended on the capture of this creature; and when they saw him rear his head, despair was ready to seize them. i 330 DR. KANE. Hut ti.ey wore ulreudy within rifle-Hhot, Hn.l th.' captain gave the signal to fire. Petersen, in his anxiety, could with difficulty Hteadv liis g„n • and the inHtanfc the nhot was fired the Ireature made a movement, as if about to plunge. But hi« head tell holplesHly on one Hide; auDg strips of raw two planka taken id a grand feast, lost. This H»[)ply or dogs, too : for '•ought with their mn liked to think ere approaching ' whaling-ground riiey then passed se to Upernavik, 3 firm earth, e whom he knew, ome up in the ear's s'lpply of irse he was full the whalers, and iir. AlUtlVAL At WI'KUNAVIK. 881 Of America he knew little, lie said, as Ameri- cans have no whalers on that coast. He only knew tl.at, iiliout a fortnight before, two vessels had gone up into the ice to seek Dr. Kane's party. He could tell them, however, what interested them as mucii as anything, nauiely, tiiat Dr. Rae had found traces of Sir John Franklin's expedition nearly a thousand miles to the south of where they had been seeking him. This he knew, because his pastor had read it in a German paper. So, after being eighty-four days in the open air. Dr. Kane and his companions landed, and that night ' drunk coffee before many a hospitable dwelling;' for they could not remain long within the four walls of a house without a dis- tressing sense of suffocation. ■• ; MaWMCMWiK!'- I|l£/i|l 332 = ^ CHAPTKR XVr. B.K LEOPOLD M'CLINTOC'K'S VOYAGE, AND DiSCOVKHV OF THK RKLICS OK THK FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. The discovery Of the three {graves at Beoehey Island by CaptamH Penny and Oiamanney in 1850, and the report sent home l.y Dr. Rae in 1854, were, "P to that diite. the onl^ clues which had been obtained of the cour«- of the lost expedition. On lie receipt of the first intelligence the English Ooverrment had redoubled its efforts, t,nd con- tinueo to send oit more and more ships. But Dr Rae's information had the contrary effect, as it 8eem.3dto destroy all hopes of saving life; und when l.ady Franklin earnestly intreated that this new track might be followed up, the reply was, on this ground, .1 negative one. The British Government did not consider it right to risk more lives, or to spend more treasure, in this perilous enterprise; and her petition was consequently rejected. She, however, viewed the matter in h different light, and considered it as a sacred duty to rescue If not the lives of her husband and his companions,' yet at least their reputation from oblivion. Wlll-UJll,,, iini/.tfi ADY FRANKMN'h RF>»OLlTTION. 333 , AND DlHfOVEHy «f KXPKDITION. it Reochey iHland ey in 1850, and e in 1854, were, which liad been expedition. On nee the English fforts, i,nd con- ships. But Dr. try effect, as it [f life ; and when 1 that this new iply was, on this ish Government lives, or to spend erprise; and her er in a different I duty to rescue, his companions, :>blivion. She had already greatly inipoverinhed herself l)y the large expenses which she had incurred in this cause; yet she hesitated not on receiving this an- swer, hut at once determined to take the matter into her own hands. The ' Fox,' a screw-yacht, 'as purchased hy her, and placed under the command of Captain M'Clin- took, who had already so greatly distinguished him- self in the voyages of Sir James Ross and Captain Austen ; and whose heart, as he himself tells us, wiu* moHt thoroughly in the work. Lady Franklin was not, however, left to bear the pecuniary burden alone ; for many eminent and Bcientifio men shared in her enthusiasm, "i-nH ; mongst them was Sir Koderick Murchison, A large sum was conse«iuently soon raised ; and, by the Ist of July, 1857, the ' Fox' was getting to sea, having previously undergone a thorough refitting and preparation for the voyage. Volunteers had been so numerous, that it was only difficult to make a selection ; an.med Christian, also volunteered, and was accepted in that capacity. He was soon in the hands of the crew, undergoing a thorough scrubbing and cropping, and when dressed in his new sailor's clothes, he looked very well con- tented with himself. A fresh supply of coal ' as taken on board in Waygatt Strait, which our readers will remember ^.-^^^If ^ y g i fnt H iliim ii WWW I IWMlWWM'WMM ppaifyyjWfBgfwfw M'CLINTOCK, il ry found it in all the SB, — the blue campanulas aread profusely over the of many sorts abounding rhis place is famous for of which fiah a large 3 the ship in kajaks. A *oonlight. r, n^'med Christian, also Jted in that capacity, the crew, undergoing a ping, and when dressed ! looked very well con- as taken on board in readers will remember BESET IN THE PACK. separates the isle of Disco from the maili land. Here the scenery is described as very grand. They had still to complete their number of dogs, and stood in need of some other things; so Petersen's knowledge of the resources of the country, in which he had lived for twelve years, was found very ser- viceable. At Upernavik he was welcomed as an old friend ; and the visit of a friend, whether old or new, is always a pleasant event in those lonely parts. The last traces of civilization were seen here ; and now they had to choose between the diiferent routes across Baffin's Bay. A pack of ice, caused by the breaking up of the main body in spring, always obstructs the passage from east to west, even in summer. This must be sailed round either on the north or south, or a vessel must push through the middle of it ; and now, failing in the southern and middle courses, Captain M'Clintock steered northwards. They were in Melville Bay, which Dr. Kane had so recently crossed; and one vast glacier extended along the coast for 40 or 50 miles, while innumerable icebergs were glittering in the sunlight and ren- dering the navigation almost impossible. It was late in the season, too, and soon the yacht was com- pletely beset in the pack ; and to the captain's great mortification, there was every appearance of her being forced to winter there. They were in a dangerous part, too, ..ad exposed to many storms; and when he thought of Lady P'ranklin's disap- pointed hopes, the delay seemed almost unbearable. z ss^s-- ■»*ii! -^4 "In jfti' f~Jn.'':- — 4ki 338 SIR LEOPOLD M'CLINTOCK. . In these feelings of their captain, the men, for- tunately, did not participate. They had all that they wanted, and, with the usual thoughtlessness of sailors, made themselves quite happy with the various diversions within their reach. Bear-hunts and seal-hunts formed part of these; and Petersen and Christian diligently practised the Esquimaux method of attracting the latter,— scraping the ice so as to make a noise like that produced by a seal with its flipper ; then putting one end of a pole into the water, they made all kinds of grunting noises, like those which the seal itself makes. Like other Esquimaux, Christian would carry his kajak on his head, and drag a seal after him when he came back from hunting. They Lad also a barrel-organ on board, which had been presented by the Prince Consort to the vessel which bore his name, and which Lady Franklin had sent out in 1851. This was its third winter in the ice ; and it served greatly to amuse the men, especially Christian, who had never seen such a thing before. So September passed away; but no change in the ice came sufficient to allow of the ship's passage through it, and the preparations for winter went on the more rapidly as the dismal prospect became a certainty. On the Ist of November the sun paid them its last visit ; and on the 5th, in order to vary the monotony, the crew kept Guy Fawkes' day on the ice in great style. In the beginning of the next month, however, the ■--0^j'?^msmmfmmmmmm'>»i«fmmm WMmm3.'fmm'M&^^i ■5*""»i OCK. ain, the men, for- 'hey had all that thoughtlessness of happy with the each, led part of these ; itly practised the latter, — sorj^ing ce that produced putting one end ade all kinds of seal itself makes, ian would carry i seal after him board, which had )rt to the vessel dy Franklin had vinter in the ice ; men, especially a thing before, t no change in e ship's passage ' winter went on >spect became a I paid them its ar to vary the kes' day on the bh, however, the •y y.*!'' '«»*». j»'-.si»- FUNKUAL ON THK UK. Ml daily routine of ship life wus broken in a Hiulder way, for a (leatli occurred among the crew, not by illnefis, but as the residt of an accident. Scott, the engine- driver (for the 'Fox' waH provided with a f.eani- engine in case of need), fell down u liatchway, and received such injuries from the fall that his death occurred two days after. Captain Al'Clintock de- scribes the scene at this funeral, at which he had to officiate, as one which could never be forgotten by those who witnessed it. The moon was shining at the time, and appa- rently not alone. A halo encircled it, through which passed a broad streak of light, which stretched along the horizon, and above the first halo appeared parts of two others. Six paraselenae, or mock moons, appeared in the heavens at the same time. Yet the sky was dark and murky, and the cold intense, when the little procession descended from the deck, where most of the service had been read, and while the ship's colours were set half-mast high, and her bell tolled mournfully, proceeded by the light of torches to the spot where a hole was cut in the ice. Thus V f ' ody committed to the deep. Pev i.sft'. ■ •. 'ed himself a very interesting com- panion du. weary winter ; having, of course, endless stores nformation about the country, the Esquimaux, an e animals of the region : but he was not called upon to exercise his office of interpreter, as no natives came near the ship. In March the strong gales caused movements to take place in the ice, in which the ' Fox' got nipped, Hi I i«i | iiiii Hi ii i im Mw i w ni m ni H il l 342 SFR LEOPOLD M'^'UNTiXk. and was often in iinminpnt danger. Tlien the pack began to drift, and she with it, until, by the 26(1^ of April, she had actually repassed Davis's Straits, and waa once more opposite to Fishernaes, but some way out at sea I It is, -perhaps, one of the most remark- able drifts ever known ; and though eight months had thus passed uselessly, yet it was with great thank- fulness that her captain found his vessel wifely free from the ' villainous pack,' and his crew safe after all the terrific perils of that long run. They then steered for Holsteinborg, one of the best places for obtaining rein-deer, in order to refit and refresh the crew. We must pass over the time of that delightful though short summer holiday in Greenland. Soon they were again steaming north- ward, and after narrowly escaping shipwreck, and then being again caught in the pack, tliey suc- ceeded by the middle of July in reaching the en- trance of Lancaster Sound. They had on their way while opposite to the crimson cliflfs and Arctic high- lands, received a visit from some of these poor high- anders, who instantly recognized Petersen, having hved at Etah, and seen him there with Dr. Kane They told them that Hans was married, and living at Whale Sound, but would gladly go southward if he had a kajak or dogs, as he suffered much from want where he was. It was probably in consequence of a letter of Dr Kane's that the Danish Greenland Company, pitying the condition of these poor people, now requested Captain M'Clintock to bring them all, that is a i. "^t-^ LX'K. '. Tlien the pack til, by the 2bih of avis's Straits, and les, but some way the most remark- eight months liad 'ith great thank- vessel wifely free 5rew safe after all borg, one of the in order to refit ua over tlie time tnmer holiday in steaming north- ehipwreck, and pack, they suc- eaching the en- ad on their way, md Arctic higb- these poor high- •etersen, having with Dr. Kane, ried, and living fo southward if red much from f a letter of Dr. mpany, pitying now requested all, that is, a THK OLD WOMAN S RECOLLECTIONS. 343 hundred and twenty people, down to the southern settlements : a thing which, he says, he would gladly : have done, had not duty called him elsewhere. As a pack of ice lay across the entrance to the Sound, lie steered now for Pond's Bay, to the south- east of it, and there had anotlier opportunity of sending home letters by the ' Diana ' whaling-vessel. Here they met an old native woman and a boy, who were subjected to a close cross-examination as to wrecks, shipr , and white people ; but they declared tb^t they knew of none ever having come there : and yet they knew well enough 5>,bout the depot of provi- sions at Navy Board Inlet, which is the next on the north of this coast, and which some of their tribe seem to have robbed. The old woman traced for them a chart of the coast line, and the next day, being less excited, she remembered a wreck on the coast when she was a girl, about forty-five miles to the northward — a piece of which wreck was afterwards brought on board and found to be English oak. As no further information could be obtained from her, they determined on going on to visit her tribe, taking her and her boy with them as pilots ; and while on board she drew for them another chart, which fully displayed her geographical powers. She told them that she was a widow, and that her daughter was married and living at Igloolik, which turned out to be the same that Parry had visited ; for she spoke of a ship which had wintered there, and of one of the crew's dying, whose name was 344 Sin LEOPOLD M'CLINTOCK, Allul., or Kllul.,- Parry'H ice-master, Mr. Elder, no ck>ul,t, who died and was buri,,,! at I-loolik. 81,.- Hpoko, too of another wreck, which happened before her first child wjis born. 1 di No informatiov oouh any of her tribe i. nor of any wrecks v were questioned both name of their village is iuiparHi of land surrounded by glaciers 'wevor, be gained from liose whom they sought, ■'y liJidy Kranklin wan iTfclcd, tlnsi' to one rcc()nlin>^ tiic dcatliH of those who died in Sir Kdward Kelcher's expedition, and also to another to the me- mory of the young Frenchman, Lieutenant Hellot. Lady Franklin's ran m follows: — Co i\)t ^tmox\t of FRANKLIN, CROZ[KI{, FITZ.IAMKS, AND AM, THKrn OAI.I.ANT OFFICKnS AND FAITHFUI, COMTASIDSH WHO HAVE SUFFF.HKD AND I'EIIIHHKD IN THF. C'AUSF, OF 8CIENCK AND THK HEKVUF, OF THKIU COUNTKV, Ci)i(l Cnblrt IH KilKOTED NEAIl THE SPOT WHEHE THEV PASSED THEIU FIUST ARCTIC WINTER, AND WHENCE THEY ISSUED FORTH TO CONtJUEIl DIFFICULTIES OR TO DIE. IT COMMEMORATES t/IE OUIEF OF THEIR ADMIRING COUNTRYMEN AND FRIENDS, AND THE AN(JIIISH, SUBDUED BY FAITH, OF HER WHO HAM LOST, IN THE HEROIC LEADER OF THE EXPEDITION, THE MOST DEVOTED AND AFFECTIONATE OF H'TMBANDS. ' AND SO HE IIRINQETH THEM UNTO THE HAVEN WHERE TIIKV WOULD HE.' i8,);p. Twelve days later than this, in 1850, Captain M'Clintock had been on board the ' A-ssistance' when Captain Ommanney landed, because a cairn had at- e»**^ii^ilt*^- : yiMs mut^ a www w 34« 8IU LKOI'OLI) M'CMNTOCK. tm<-t<>(l liJH n„Uco, and tliiw dwcovered tlu. flin'.« graveH. On flu. 18th of AtiKUHt ti.e 'Fox' ran euHily (lown Peel Hound, between North HomerHet and Prince of Wales' lahind, and attempted to .,««« I)y the pn8«age of BeUot Strait into the Gulf of Boothia • Uollot Btruil. 'CMij*^*'. hut the ice no<^ suffering the ship to proceed, they turned out again and made for Port Leopold. Passing down North Somerset on the east, they once more tried Bellot Strait from that side ; a bar- rier, however, still stopped them in the middle of it nor wa« it imtil the fifth attempt that they succeeded! On a pwnt a little north of this Captain M'Cliutock had stood, just nine years before, with Sir James Ross; -.!:,.,,-,,iv,i*>sS3s,':^ X'K. Jvered tlio tliree ' Fox' mn eiiHily 1 kSoinerwt and ipti'd to pjiHH by Gulfof Hoothia; o proceed, they t Leopold, the east, they at side ; a bar- 10 middle of it, they succeeded, iiin M'Cliutock ^ir James Hoss; DKATII (tK THK KN»MNKKK. 347 and ho now tliou^ht, as he had done then, that a , wide channel southward ct-rtainly existed, that is, -the one now known aa Victoria Strait. All this country hiul then to he explored ; and Captain Voun^ started in a sledj^o to seek a route from Hreiitford Hay to the Western Sea. Hut this he rep<»rted im- practicable. Three separate sledge-routes were tiien planned, which were to be led by the Captain, lieu- tenant Hobson, and Captain Young. The tirst was to go to the Great Kish River, ex- amining the shores of King William's Ijand; the second, the western side of Hoothia to the Magnetic Pole; and the third, the shores of Prince of WaU«' Land. They were to be absent from sixty to seventy days, and to start in March, the earliest time they thought jx>ssible. Meantime the ship remained in a creek, wliich they named Port Kennedy, in the neighbourhood of this little strait, for her winter (|uarterB ; but her crew were not to be long inactive. Travelling parties in all directions went out to examine the country, and to endeavour to meet with Esquimaux, from whom the desired information might possibly be extracted. They lost their en- gineer this winter by a fit of apoplexy ; and thus their numbers were reduced to twenty-four, and they had no one left to manage the engine. It was a severe season; but they had plenty of occupation in preparing for their journeys after the turn of the year. And, profiting by experience, all sorts of improvements were made in the wearing apparel, in order the better to enable travellers to 34.; NIK l,Koh»|,|» M*«I,INT(«K. Htai.d i.x|>(.Hiir(. to wind iukI wmtl.ir. Kurr-rnvcM and li^hr ..v.T-ull drfMHCH, cill.-d Hi.ow-r..i...||,.n w,.iv •ii.ul.. t<. kc.p off th.- diirtin^r H.mw; and .'vory urtich> wan trird and U-MvA \,y pnparHN.ry walki. Til., l.tfl.. Ii;,dil mlio, t.'nfH, tu hol.l Hix iH-rnnm, Hiid wl.iHi w..ijfh..d, inrludinK poh-H, „nly IHA Ihn wen. ultt-ml and HfivuKtlionod : mul warn. Hl.Mu.ini/- l»aKH ftnd tcnt-rchns w.-n. tnadc. Tlu- cookinj^ ntt^n- hiIh, those for carrying' food, and oti.or urticl,,s, woi.. HlHo thoroUKldy testod and n,painHi ; and, in hI.oH evorytluriK wuh done to enable tlietn to begin tlieir ex-' c.irHi..n» with or Hoon after ti.e reappearano.. of tin. hiui. and to |)Mr.sn.. ti.ein in a t.m.peratnre which would, in' th|> courHo of fo„r or five niontliH, vary fr.nn fifty de- KHH-H below zero to about the wmie number abovo it. They got away earlier than any {.reviouH tra- vellern; but Captain M^CIintock'n party ^ero some- what retarded in their progroHH, by the dogn' suffer- ingH fron, eold. They becan.e lunie. and Hou.etin.eH tcai down in fitH; ho that he was unwillingly obliged to lighten the loa.ls n.<,re than once. Tl.oy travelltnl till dusk, and then built themselveN a snow-hut in wh.ch they paHHed the night. It took two ho.irH to erect these Htructures; and even then the tent was put over them to roof them in, as they could not spare tune for the arched dome. On the iHtofMa.ch theyarriveH. UAKK HTATKMKN'I>* (ONKlllMKI*. .')4!i liir. FHci'-rnvoM n»w-rcj)c||«-n.. wiTf Hiiow ; mill ««vi'ry • piimhiry walkn. » liiild H\\ |»»'rHoiif«i, l»H, only 1H(J lliH., Ill warm HN'upinjr- riic fodkinjjf iitt'ii- Ihm- urticl<'H, wt*i« < dresH, wbicb bo explained to buve como from Home wbite people, wbo were Hiarvod on an iHland wbeie tliere are Halmon: by wliic^b tbey meant an island in a river; and tbey added, tbat tbey batl got tlieir iron kniven in tbe same way. . Anotber man bad been to Uepultio Ray, and bad «een Heveii niembeiH of Kae's party. Captain .M'(!lintoek went on witb tbewe people to tbeir village, and in balf-an-bour tbey built biin a good Huow-but. lie tben told tliem tbat be wisbed to barter witb tliem, and t^H})eeially to buy all I be articles litsloiiging to tbe htarvod wliites. So next morning tbe wbole popuhition <»f tbe vil- lage, coUHiHting of forty-five people, eame out, and readily sohl silvr sfioona; a mlver medal, wbieb bad bi'longed to Mr. A. M'Doiiald, aHsiHtant-Hurgeon ; part of a gold ebain, Heveral buttouH, knives, and bows and arrows, made of different parts of tbe wreck. None of tbese peopb) bad Hven tbe wbites, tliougb one man said be bad seen tbe bones of some of tliem ; and Petersen understood from bim tbat a boat bad been crusbed by tbe ice. Anotber nniu told bim tbat a sbip witb tbree masts bad been crushed by tbe ice, out in tiie sea, westward of King William's Island; hut not until all BSSST' 350 am LIXIPOLD M'C'LINTOCK. the crew had landed safely. He said, also, that the 'ehip sank ; and so nothing was got fronk her. All thoii spoils came from the island in the river. An old man also sketched on the snow the coast- line, near where the ship sank ; but Captain M'Clin- tock could make nothing of it. Thus Dr. Ilae's statements were confirmed, and one ship accounted for ; but no papers whatever were yel obtained, nor was anything heard of the other vessel. The old people all remembered the visit of the ' Victory ; ' one of them, an old man named Ooblooria, turning out, in fact, to be the same individual whom Sir James Ross had employed as a guide. He en- quired after Sir James, by his Esquimaux name of Agglugga. And Captain M'Clintock, in his turn, asked after the man for whom a wooden leg had been made by tlie carpenter of that vessel ; but he got no direct answer, thougu his daughter was pointed' out to him. Petersen explained that this proved the man to be dead, as the Esquimaux never like to speak of departed friends. This tribe seemed to be well off; they were clean and well-dressed, stout and hearty people, and very friendly i but, like the rest of their nation, terrible thieve- They have a great partiality for needles ; and one woman, in order to obtain more, pulled her naked infant out of its fur-bag, though the temperature was 60° below freezing, and held it up before the captain ; begging in this way for one for her child. Having got all the information which they could obtain from these people. Captain M'Clintock re- ,if««w*ss|«R»«w*)s««.i ■v.-"-^'jUrt'Vf,if,-\t'^V.av "-' 'CLINTOCK. He said, also, that the was got from her. All land in the river. i on the snow the coast- It ; but Captain M'Clin- it. its were confirmed, and no papers whatever were ling heard of the other rtembered the visit of the i man named Ooblooria, ; same individual whom d as a guide. He en- lis Esquimaux name of 'Clintock, in his turn, om a wooden leg had of that vessel ; but he ugli his daughter was len explained that this a the Esquimaux never ids. ell oflF; they were clean ' hearty people, and very >f their nation, terrible •tiality for needles ; and more, pulled her naked lOugh the temperature held it up before the •for one for her child, lation which they could aptain M'Clintock re- • •>mvs}V ' v r: ^iW*^^>f^^^Sd"i:'?'i<;^!v SLEDGKS STAUr r^TTT ^1 mt turned to the ■ Fox,' where lie found Captain "i'oung, who had also got back. All were eager to start again, and Dr. Walker soon took out one party ; while Captain Young went with anotlier to Fury Beach, where many valuable supplies yet remained. He found that preserved vegetables and soups, left there in 1825, yet remained good ; and the party eupped off them! They also brought away some sugar. But many of them were seized with snow- blindness on the journey, and had to be led home. Those were, however, only preparatory trips. The three great journeys did not commence till the 2nd ■ of April, when Dr. Walker remained in charge of the ship. When they returned, the precious document had been obtained which tells of the fate of the gallant crews. The sledges started, each with their gay silk banners flying, while the yacht hoisted her flag ; and, by the 20th of April, Captain M'Clintock had again met "with his old acquaintances of February last, who were out seal-hunting. Entering their huts, which were of a more elabo- rate form than usual, and contained more apartments than the former ones, they found many articles which had evidently once belonged to an English ship, and also heard that two ships had been seen by the na- tives of King William's Island, one of which sank in deep water, while the other was stranded on the shore at a place called Oot-loo-lik ; and that it was from this wreck that they got most of their wood. It was a young man, however, who let out this 352 SIR LKOPOLD M'CMNTOCK. piece of information ; the old one had previously said nothing about it. The young one also spoke of having heard of the body of a very large man being found on board this wreck. They both said that it was in the aatimin when the crews deserted the ship and went away to the large river, and that in the next winter their bones were found on its banks. But the old man also gave the unpleasant informa- tion of one of the depots having been plundered by some of his countrymen, who had followed their home- ward track ; which piece of news prevented them from making any further depots among these people. Captain M'Clintock had travelled in compafiy with Lieutenant Hobson so far ; and they went on together to Cape Victoria, the south-west point of Boothia, where they separated, the former proceeding on towards the south, while the latter marched across the ice to Cape Felix, the north-west point of King William's Island, the plan being that Lieutenant Hobson was to search for the wreck, and Captain M'Clintock for the relics of the Fish River paity. Crossing over then from Boothia to King Wil- liam's Island, Captain M'Clintock once more met with natives, who, though tliey seemed never before to have seen white people, were perfectly friendly and ready to trade. These also knew about this wreck, of which, they said, little now remained, as their countrymen had carried much of it away. They sold more plate, bearing the crests or initials of Franklin, Crozier, Fairholme, and M'Donald, and oflfered a heavy sledge n)ade of a large piec« of 1 -^m f-TTJi rjjftr-ti- t^j-^rTs -v?^;:^ \ K. \ previously said e also spoke of large man being )oth said that it ieserted the ship and that in the d on its banks, ileasant infornia- en plundered by )wed their home- prevented them )ng these people, led in compafiy id they went on th-west point of irnier proceeding r marched across st point of King that Lieutenant ck, and Captain 1 River paity. lia to King Wil- once more met ned never before )erfectly friendly knew about this ow remained, as li of it away, i crests or initials i M'Donald, and I large piece of FURTHER INTELLIGENCE. SfiS i carved wood ; but this was too heavy to be carried away. ' It was five days' journey to the wreck,' they said, and there had been many hooka ; but the weather had long ago destroyed them. An old woman also spoke of the white men who dropped down and died aa they travelled to the river, of whom she said some were buried, and some were not; but as to the number of these poor fellows, nothing could be ascertained. Captain M'Clintock, it should be remembered, was examining all round the eastern part of this large island. He soon came to a bay which he name* ' Latrobe,' after the esteemed Moravian friend of Tir John Franklin, and on the 10th of May reached Booth Point, the south-eastern extremity, where they only met two or three old people who were too frightened to give any information. On the 12th the}'^ crossed over to Point Ogle, on the continent, and just at the mouth of Back's River. Down this they journeyed as far as Montreal Island, but were obliged to travel by night to escape snow- blindness. No relics were, however, obtained there ; so they crossed over to the mainland, and examined the shores of Duncan Point with as little success. Ogle peninsula was next searched, and a cairn found there taken down and rebuilt; but nothing was discovered. They were now on their return journey, and on the very shores on which the un- fortunate crews must have marched. But the sledges kept on the sea-ice close to the shore, while the men narrowly looked out for any trace of relics. A A ■ t 3fi4 SIR LEOPOLD M'CLINTOCK. It was on the 25th of May that Captain M'Clin- tock came on a very painful one, namely, the skeleton of a slight yonng man, who from his dress, and especially the loose bow-knot in which his hand- kerchief was tied, was judged to have been a steward or officer's servant ; but the face and limbs had been gnawed away or broken by wild beasts. Near him was found a frozen pccket-book, a clothes-brush, and pocket horn-comb; all which articles, had the Esquimaux discovered him, would have been stolen. The poor young fellow seems to have fallen down exhausted,— probably fell asleep, and so died. Nothing but deserted native huts were found along the south coast of King William's Island, :o wnich they now bent their steps, making for Point Her- schel, in Washington Bay, where it had been arranged that Hobson should leave a note. A cairn built by Simpson stands conspicuously on the summit of this' cape, at about 150 feet above the It now appears that the retreating parties must sea. have passed this point, travelling as they did round the west of King William's Island ; m- herefore it was natural to expect records here, wbere f'- . irn was built ready to their hand? They as^ht ,.h forward for fresh supplies, leaving tlieee two in charge of the boat, and had not been able to returTi. Captain M'Clintock now, naturally, was chiefly anxious to find the wreck itself: but no sign of her was to be seen: nor did he find any other relics. Hobson found two other cairns, and other interesting .articles, and everything that could be carried wns borne away. Strange to say, however, out of all the immense heap of clothing, no memorandum of any kind was found in the pockets. Yet Esquimaux could hardly have visited these parts, or all would have been taken away. Captain M'Clintock thought, that if Sir John Franklin had known of a passage eastward of King William's Island, he would have taken it and escaped all the disasters which befell h'im and his crew ; but his chart told him of none such. Both the searching parties now returned to the ' Fox.' Indeed, it was high time that Lieutenant Hobson did so, as he was too ill even to stand alone, on his arrival, from the effects of scurvy. But, happily, Christian had shot some ducks, which, with preservec' lotatoe, milk, strong ale, and lemon- juice, pro\ p 1 the best medicine for him ; and he soon began to amend. One man, the steward, had died from this disease d"ring their abseace; but the lest were tolerably well. Captain Young had, meantime, discovered a passage between Victoria and Prince of Wales' Lands. He had come back in bad health; and, contrary to the doctor's opinion, had gone out again. As, therefore, there was much cause for anxiety ■^>;nw "%'i se two in charge 3 rfctUl'TI. Jly, was chiefly no sign of her ay other relicp. »ther interesting be carried was ' ;r, out of all the orandum of any ifet Esquimaux s, or all would lintock thought, wn of a passage he would have which befell him of none such, returned i o the that Lieutenant I to stand alone, f scurvy. But, .'ks, which, with .e, and lemon- im ; and he soon eward, had died 3e; but the lest i, discovered a ince of Wales' id health ; and, gone out again. use for anxiety RETURN TO ENGLANIJ. 359 about him, Captain M'Clintock himself now set off in search of him. He was found at last in a terribly reduced state ; and all returned to recruit by a liberal indulgence in all the good things on board ship. Every one knows what it is to have important news to communicate, and how impatient persons in such a position are of every obstaclo. And no one will wonder that, in the present instance, a third winter in the ice was much dreaded. On the breaking up of the ice the steam was got up, and, with the help of the two stokers. Captain M'Clintock found that he could work the engine himself. This was a great relief; and a greater atill was it when, on the 10th, a passage cleared in the ice, and they were really able to start. On the 17tli they passed Fury Beach, and were soon after off Port Leopold, and then out in open sea. By the 28th they reached the Danish harbour of God- haven, where the two Esquimaux were discharged ; and on the 21st of September Captain M'Clintock reached London, and was able to report the result of his voyage at the Admiralty. There he learnt that instead of 138 men, as had been supposed, only 134 sailed in the * Erebus ' and ' Terror,' and that of these, five had returned invalided before they en- tered the ice. He thinks that it is wholly unlikely that any persons could have escaped death by taking refuge among the Esquimaux, as there were very few on the island, and these, generally, were so ready to ^ive information that, had they helped the poor whites, they would certainly have spoken of it. IMISS^fi 360 SIB LEOPOLD M'CLINTOCK. 11 ?■> . 1 r 'it' 'i't The relics which were brought home were depo- sited at the United Service Institution, and it is needless to state, that those who brought them were received everywhere with the hearty welcome which they so well deserved. Arctic medals were given to all who had not previously received them. Lieutenant Hobson was informed that he would shortly be promoted; and her Majesty, in due time, bestowed on Captain M'Clintock the honour of knighthood, with which his predecessors had so uniformly been rewarded. By the discovery of Barrow's Straits, Sir Ed- ward Parry may be said to have unlocked the door through which, by dififerent routes. Sir John Franklin, Sir Robert M'Clure, and Sir Leopold M'Clintock, ■ have each shown us a way into the Pacific. These ways are, however, so barred up by natural obstacles as to be practically useless ; but the service itself has proved so valuable a training for British sailors in times of peace : through it wo have been introduced t> so many lands and peoples formerly unknown, and it has led to such discoveries in the realms of science, that the time, talent, and treasure which it has cost, cannot be Haid to have been thrown away. LONDON: STRANnEWATB k Walden, Printers, Cutio St. L«icei>tor Sq. •> c. ame were depo- tion, and it is light them were welcome which 1 who had not ant Hobfion was promoted ; and ed on Captain lod, with which en rewarded, traits, Sir Ed- ! unlocked the out-es, Sir John id Sir Leopold I way into the JO barred up by lly useless ; but uable a training ace : through it nany lands and has led to such >, that the time, cost, cannot be St. Loicebtor Sq. ,■;',)'■''■?•