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Jt- i Atahji A IF^ Aws' MIIANIIIIS} ■^^t^i^X )a R I Z %M»Uon*ICr ' "flSpil ■ L i U i f i • T VT J 11 >>&'% una ^HT'lOci^j^ ^ «.lflllll"1^ "" '^^}^\M<^ lH»' ..-•iS^ TUift ,«». / !•»«£• ■^*- M f SUMMEr? RESOL^TS RKACHID BV THl * I Gr and^Jrunk Railway AND ITS CONNECTIONS INCLUDING NUGAHA FALLS, PARRY SO.ND, GEORGIAN BAY, MUSKOKA LAKP. r-KHS SIMCOK AND COUCHICHINO, MACKINAC TslInD mh ..AND DISTRICT LAKES. THE THOUSAND ISLANDs' RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER THE ' WHITE MOUNTAINS, MONTREAL QUEBEC, THE SAGUENAY RIVER. RANGELEY LAKES, AND THE SEA-SHORE. ILLUSTRATED PUBLISHED BY ^i:x:ojsr sc sojsr TOSONTO.^CANADA. } MONTREAL STATION. HIS work is especially designed to aid in the selec- tion of a route for a summer tour in America, giving such descriptions as will show the avenues of approach, and what is to be seen and enjoyed at the principal pleasure resorts in a journey over the Grand Trunk Railway and its connections. Information as to Tickets and Fares can be obtained at Office of the Grand Trun k Railway, Dashwood House, No. 9 New Broad Street, London, E.C , Messrs. E. H. Wood & Co.. Age nts, Grand Trunk Rail- w?v. No. 24 North John Street, Liverpool, and at the offices of the Canadian Steamship Lines in Great Britain and throughout Europe. I I led at Office of 1^ Broad Street, nd Trunk Rail- OPEHIN© WOP^DS. ^VERY season thousands of Englishmen, Scotchmen and Irishmen are askmg the question: '• Where shall I spend my summer vacation?" They have gone year after year to the same old haunts in France. Italy Austria. Switzerland, Turkey, and even way out on the plains of Pales- tme and Judea, and are tired of the same old scenes and attractions, and are seeking for p- ^res fresh and new. If we told them that the scenery of the new Dominion was ..stly more beautiful than any they could find in the Old World, that the mountains were grander and loftier, that there were larger nvers and prettier lakes, that the climate was healthier and the sunsets ncher and more beautiful than even in Italy, that there was finer fishing and hunt- ing ; and in short that there were greater facilities for real pleasure and solid enjoyment in this new Canada of ours, they would be inclined to turn up their noses and cry "chestnuts." But it is even so, as hundreds who have visited this country within the last few years can abundantly testify. Therefore we tell tue tounst who contemplates spending a few weeks or a few months seeking rest and recreation amid new scenes on foreign shores to come to Canada, and with a view of finding out what are the boundless resources of this great country, we invite them to consult the pages of this small volume. Read the descriptions, which are m no way overdrawn, and examine the illustrations, and you will agree with us that in no part of the Old Worid, or of the New Worid for that matter, will you find such magnificent scenery and innumerable attractions as are to be found in Canada. And we may say further, in no other part of the worid will the traveller find such excellent accommodations as are furnished by the Grand Trunk Railway and Its connections. The Grand Trunk Railway has the finest road-bed on the Continent, the most comfortable and luxurious day coaches and palace sleeping cars. Eveiy effort is made by the servants of the Company to make the tourist's trip pleasant and enjoyable. Before deciding, therefore, where you will spend your summer holidays, we invite you to examine the information contained in the following pages, feeling certain if you do so carefully, you will at once pack your gnp and buy your ticket for Quebec if you want to reach America during the •ummer or fall season, or for Portland if during the winter or early spring 'if I ( SI^M/A.ER TR/IVEL. f I rHE readers of these pages, should they be asked to name the most popu- lar pleasure resorts of America, the first, on which there would doubtless be entire unanimity, would be the great Cataract which attracts visitors, not only from all parts of America, but from over the Atlantic, to gaze on the majestic waterfall, the sight of which has inspired the pen of many a poet, and the pencil of mul- titudes of artists, but to which neither pen nor pencil can do more than faint justice, inspiring though the sight of its mighty waters may be. Following Niagara, with greater or less accord in giving them precedence, would come the White Mountains, the Thousand Islands and the Rapids of the St. Lawrence, Saratoga, Lake George, the Adirondacks, the sea-side resorts of the New England coast, or the ueautiful lakes and islands of the Muskoka and Parry Sound districts, which during the past few years have gained a continental reputation. For cities of spe- cial interest to summer tourists, those of Canada are deservedly prominent. Toronto, the bustling city by the lake ; Ottawa, the Dominion Capital; Montreal, its commer- cial metropolis ; quaint old Quebec, with its mediaeval air, its fortified walls and foreign surroundings ; these all come to mind in connection with this subject, as delightful places to visit in a summer tour, either from the salubrity of their climate, the charm of their situation and surroundings, or the associations connected with their history. In considering this long list of summer resorts, if the reader's attention has not already been called to the subject, he may be surpr.L.^d to learn that nearly all of them are located on, or reached by, THE GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, with its numerous divisions and immediate connections. This great highway of travel, reaching from the Atlantic coast to the great lakes, crossing and re-crossing the Canadian border, and serving alike the commercial and business interests of |he United States and British America, has justly acquired the title of "The Great International Route." To this appellation it is fast adding, and with equal propriety that of "THE GREAT TOURIST ROUTE OF AMERICA." The diversified character of the country through which it passes, the many points of interest which it reaches, and the excellent facilities it offers to the travelling public in its superior equipment, through coaches, and sleeping and dining-car service, all con- spire to give to this line an enviable reputa- tion, and make it a desirable route for the travelling public in general, and to the summer tourist in particular. The diversity of scenery, already referred to, is strikingly manifest in considering the topography of the country it traverses. Pro- bably no line of railroad on the American continent embraces in its route so great a variety. From the wave-washed Atlantic coast to the mighty inland seas whose waters swell the volume of the majestic St. Law- rence, a charming panorama of mountain, lake and river scenery passes in pleasing variety before the vision of the tourist, with the picture occasionally enlivened by charm- ing villages and flourishing cities, or per- chance by a peaceful rural scene, its quiet repose only for the moment awakened as the rapidly moving train quickens its pulse from its usual beat, then leaves it to resume its peaceful stillness. Another interesting feature of this route is the fact that it lies partly in Canada and partly in the States, thus serving not only to add variety to the scenery, but facilitating an interchange of acquaintance between the citizens of the Union and the Canadian sub- jects of the Queen, the result of which can- not fail to be mutually beneficial. The people of the Dominion, while pre- senting less diversity of nationality than those of the States, are much less cosmo- politan, preserving their national character- istics in a more marked degree. This is especially true of the older and more con- servative sections. For illustration: The visitor from the States will find in the comparatively young SUMMER TRAVEL. lational Route." fast adding, and f T ROUTE OF II • of the country e many points of ind the excellent veiling public in irough coaches, • service, all con- enviable reputa- ble route for the ral, and to the ir. already referred considering the t traverses. Pro- >n the American route so great a ivashed Atlantic jas whose waters ajestic St. Law- na of mountain, sses in pleasing the tourist, with vened by charm- g cities, or per- scene, its quiet awakened as the ins its pulse from it to resume its re of this route ' in Canada and •ving not only to but facilitating nee between the e Canadian sub- It of which can- ficial, aion, while pre- lationality ihan uch less cosmo- ional cfaaracter- iegree. This is ' and more con- isitor from the )aratively young City of Toronto r en to remind him of bustling Yaukeeoom. In the older City of Montreal one section is most decidedly English, anothet thoroughly French, both in people and architecture, while between is a homogeneous intermingling of other nationalities similar to that of American cities. The ancient City of Quebec presents a still stronger contrast, it being thoroughly French to all intents and purposes, while its suburbs, where scarcely a word of English is to be heard, are strongly suggestive of some foreign land. Going still further from the border, the traveller meets with an Acadian simplicity absolutely refreshing, and the keen student of human nature will find in this feature alone of his visit to Canada an attraction which no other trip could afford. Whether this little work may meet the eye of the prospective summer tourist, whether on the golden coast of California, the broad prairies of the west, the "sunny south," or in the Eastern or Middle States, no better route for a vacation trip can suggest itself than to some of the localities described in the following pages. In planning your summer journey, be sure that some portion of it is by the Grand Trunk Railway. You may reach it from Boston and other New England points, either at Portland, cr by the Central Ver- mont line at Montreal. From the Middle and South Atlantic States, taking in the Hudson River, Saratoga and Lake George, the Grand Trunk may be reached at Rouse's Point or St. John's. From the west, Chicagcw. Detroit or Milwaukee may be the inception of your tour by this line. From the former city a choice of several routes is presented. From the new Dearborn Station, the through trains of the Chicago and Grand Trunk Rail- way make close connections at Port Huron, with quick service, through coache-s. sleep- ing-cars and dining-cars, forming a continu- ous through car line between Chicago and Suspension Bridge. New York and Boston. From the same station the trains of the "Niagara Falls Short Line" make close connections with the Southern (Great West- ern) Division at Detroit. The Michigan Central also makes connection at Detroit with the Grand Trunk system. From Milwaukee a delightful trip may be made across Lake Michigan by the pala- tial steamer, "City of Milwaukee," to Gtand Haven, thence by the Detroit, Grand Haven & Milwaukee Railway to Detroit, or. if preferred, to Durand, there connecting with the CHICAGO A GRAND TRUNK. From Detroit, the tourist has the choice of going via Windsor and the Southern (Great Western) Division, or by the Detroit Division to Port Huron, and there connect- ing directly with the main line. It will thus be seen that the Grand Trunk system is not only very extensive in itself, but is accessibTe from all parts of the coun- try, its direct connectioi> being the most important railway lines of America. "THE NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE." Under this name the Great Western Divi- sion (now termed the Southern Division) of the Grand Trunk has an international repu- tation. Extending from Windsor, opposite Detroit, and from Sarnia, opposite Port Huron, to the world-famous Cataract, it forms an important link in the great rail- way chain across the continent. A trip through Canada by this line is one of interest and novelty. The long, level stretches of country, with easy grades and few curves, permit the making of fast time, and thus add materially to the comfort of the journey. Nor is the scenery devoid of interest. Flourishing towns and villages indicate the prosperity of the inhabitants, while many fine farms add to the attractive- ness of the scene. In some sections the views to be obtained from the car windows are absolutely picturesque. This is particu- larly true of some bits of fine scenery near Dundps, approaching Hamilton. To avoid heavy grades the railway is built on the side of the mountain, which towers up in grandeur on the one hand, while on the other side you may gaze upon a charming valley far below, in which nestles the town, the whole forming, a picture which becomes a genuine surprise to those who have formed the erroneous opinion that the scenery of this part of Canada is monotonous, from having travelled through it by some other route than the favorite Great Western. This is also a Dining Car Line, and meals are served on the through express trains, east and west, in a style to suit the most fastidious. During the season of navigation the " Em- press of India," a first-class steamer, running between Toronto and Port Dalhousie, makes connection with Grand Trunk trains to and from Niagara Falls. '*> 'ijit\£^,^' vL'-^' i\»jfit A] iSSBSMHBS saxEi SUMMER RESORTS. I £ O Pi O s Ubc Cits of portlanD. Portland, in the State of Maine, the eastern terminal point of the Grand Trunk Railway, is beautifully situated on the penin- sula in the south-western extremity of Casco Bay. It was first named Falmouth, was settled by an English colony in 1632, and was three times burnt in the wars with the French and Indians, while, in 1866, a fire de- stroyed 810,000,000 worth of property. It has a population of some 40,000 inhabitants, and possesses broad, shaded streets and handsome public and private edifices, at the same time forming a centre to the numerous watering-places within reach, where the purest of sea air can be enjoyed. Among these are Old Orchard, Pine Point and Bid- deford Pool, all of which are within a few minutes' ride by rail, while Peak's Island, Long Island and Chebeague Island can be reached several times daily by the steamers which ply in the bay. To those fond of the water, capital boating and yachting can here be enjoyed. " The lonely shepherd's K,ve is still To bask beneath a shady hill, The herdsman roams the vale ; With both their fancies i agree But mine the swellings, scooping sea That is both hill and dale. " Oh ! who can tell that brave delight To see the hissing wave in might, Come rampant like a snake, To leap his horrid crest and feast One's eyes upon the briny beast. Left Couchant in the wake." The drives from Portland to Cape Cottage, the Ocean House, the Kirkwood and the Atlantic House cannot be excelled for roads and scenery. Portland is distant about 100 miles from Boston, and 300 miles from Montreal. Ubc Mbite /IDountatn^, VIA GORHAM, ON THE G. T. R'y. The White Mountains — a mountainous chain of New England-commence in Maine and extend nearly across New Hampshire, where it has twenty bold peaks, with deep, narrow gorges, wild valleys, beautiful lakes, lofty cascades and torrents, being aptly designated the "Switzerland of America." The discovery of these mountains is ac credited to Darby Field, 1642; he found many crystals upon them which he mistook for diamonds, and for a long time the chain was called " The Crystal Hills." The Indians bore a great reverence for the mountains, believing them to be the abode of the Great Spirit, and rarely ascended the higher peaks, for it was reported among them that no one who scaled the sacred heights returned alive. The first settlement among the mountains was made in 1792 by a hunter and guide; the first bridlepath to the summit of Mt. Washington was cut in 1819; m the following year a small party of gantlemen slept upon the. summit of this mountain and named the different peaks. Gorham, 90 miles from Portland, and the entrance to the mountains, offers the most striking views. The grandeur and beauty of the mountain scenery, and of the roman- tic, richly-wooded glens, through which, in an endless variety of silvery cascades and silent pools, run the rivers Androscoggin and Peabody, with their attendant brooks, delight all beholders. The drive by stage from Gorham to the Glen House is exceed- ingly pleasant, the scenery all around being grand in the extreme. For several years the summit of Mount Washington has been occupied during the winter as a station of the Meteorological Department of the I lO SUMMER RESORTS. } United States Army. In severe seasons the wind has been known to attain a velocity of lOo miles an hour, and the thermometer has sunk to 59 degrees below zero. The moun- tains are becoming more and more popular as a summer resort, on account of their delightful temperature and wild and beau- tiful scenery. FRANKENSTEIN TRESTLB. Mount Washington, 6,288 feet, is the highest peak east of the Rockies ; zn hotel bt the top furnishes meals and lodging to tourists who desire to spend the night on the mountain. A newspaper is also pub- lished here, and the ride up the mountain, with its ever changing views, as the road winds, is one never to be forgotten. There are in these mountains many waterfalls, some of thei ' of great beauty, the most famous being the falls of Ammonooauc, de- scending more than 5,000 feet, in a course of 30 miles. From the base of Mount Washington an ordinary railway brings us to Fabyans, from' which excursions may be made to Twin Mountain, Bethlehem, or Franconia Notch, the latter celebrated as the home of " The Old Man of theMountain." This gigan- tic profile is seen from a point of observation down the Notch from the Profile House, and is strikingly suggestive in its grimness of the enduring inflexibil- ity of the granite hills of which it forms a part. In this vicinity are also Eagle Cliff, Echo Lake, Mount Lafayette, and the Flume, in which was form- erly suspended the great boulder, since fallen in a spring flood. The ascent of Mount La- fayette, which is the high- est peak of the Franconia range, may be made on foot, but preferably on horseback, a bridle path extending from near the Profile House to the sum- mit. The view from the crest of the mountain is very fine, second only to that from Mt. Washington. Of the other attractions. Echo Lake claims a large share of attention. The little valley in which it is situated has remarkable acoustic properties, and as the visitor sails over the surface of the lake, his voice is returned in oft-repeated echoes, finally dying among the more distant cliffs, with an effect surprisingly beautiful. Hark ! how the gentle echo from her cell Talks through the cliffs and murmuring o'er the stream Repeats the accents we-shall-part-no-more. I THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. II >e-'uty, the most ^mmonoosuc, de- feet, in a courso It Washington an to Fabyans, from' I made to Twin !<'ranconia Notch, celebrated as the The Old Man of tain." Thisgigan- ! is seen from a ibservation down 1 from the Profile nd is strikingly ! in its grimness during inflexibil- ! granite hills of orms a part, vicinity are also iff, Echo Lake, ifayette, and the which was form- ended the great since fallen in a )d. ent of Mount La- hich is the high- }f the Franconia ay be made on preferably on , a bridle path from near the ouse to the sum- ! view from the the mountain is second only to Mt. Washington, other attractions, :e claims a large attention. The iy in which it is justic properties, er the surface of sd in oft-repeated ; the more distant isingly beautiful. lo from her cell lurmuring o'er the part-no-more. THE CRAWFORD NOTCH. This famous mountain [pass is reached by a five-mile ride from Fabyans, either by rail or stage, as may be preferred, and the trip through it may be made by rail, in the open or Observation Cars, which are in use during the season of summer travel. Near the "gateway " of the Notch stands the Crawford House, one of the oldest and best known of the mountain hotels, situated on a level plateau, about 2,000 feet above the sea level. Near the house is a little lake, from which rises the Saco River, at first a tiny stream, but as it goes on down the Notch, receiving accessions from brooks and cascades, it becomes an engine of energy, turning the busy spindles and rendering good service to mankind, until it loses itself in the Atlantic. The scenery of the Notch is grand and impressive. The frowning walls tower up on either hand, in some places to the height of 2,000 feet. The railroad is built in some places on the side of the mountain, in others on trestle work, far above the valley below, the most lofty and extended being the Frank- enstein trestle, shown in our illustration. Here and there a dashing waterfall or lovely cascade greets the visitor, as the train winds its way along the mountain side. As the pass gradually widens, we soon reach the base of Willey Mountain, where stands the celebrated Willey House, the scene of the disaster of August 28, 1826, known as the Willey Slide. The mountain here towers above the house about 2,000 feet, and the sides are very precipitous. A t< .- ible storm raged on that fatal night, and the mountain streams overleaped their bounds. The soil and rocks on the steep mountain side became loosened, and an avalanche followed, crashing down with a fearful roar. The inmates of the house, comprising the Willey family and two hired men, nine in all. fled from the house, and were overwhelmed and perished. Had they remained in the house they would have been unharmed, as a huge rock in the rear divided the slide, which left the house untouched and passed by on either side. The scarred path of the avalanche is pointed out from the train. Opposite Mount Willey is Mount Webster, on the side of which is the lovely Silver Cas- cade, and the Flume; and near 'ts summit IS a cave, called the Devil's Den. RANGELEY LAKES. The Rangeley Lakes constitute a series of lakes in north-west Maine, in the great lum- ber region of Franklin and Oxford Counties, forming a portion of the most picturesque scenery on the American Continent. The chain consists of a number of distinct bodies of water, connected by small streams, and are best reached by the Grand Trunk lines from Portland, Quebec, or Montreal, to Bethel, thence by stage and steamer. The most remote, Oquossuc, or Rangeley Lake, 1,511 feet above the level of the sea, is thus connected with T.J.nbagog, partly in New Hampshire, 1,256 feet above the level of the sea, making a distance of nearly 50 miles, comprising a water surface of 80 square , miles. The lakes abound in salmon and other delicate fish; two species of trout, weighing ten pounds, being found in these waters only, and secured with little trouble. This region is unrivalled for hunting and fish- ing grounds in the size, beauty and abund- ance of game, of which every variety is represented ; while the charming climate and health-giving influences attract thousands of persons annually, who, after a first visit, become devoted, enthusiastic patrons; in fact, there is no more favorite resort for artists, tourists and sportsmen. The Androscoggin is a river in Maine and New Hampshire, which rises in Umbagog Lake, running a course of some t'k> miles, about half of it in each State. There is some beautiful scenery along this route, which is best reached by the line of the Grand Trunk Railway, via Berlin Falls. A favorite trip is up the Magalloway River to Parmachenee Lake, a perfect paradise for the lover of sport, provided with a romantic, rustic, and comfortable hotel, situated almost ill the centre of the Hake. From Berlin Falls the best and most varied route is along the Androscoggin II SUMMER RESORTS. River, over a fine stage road, to Chandler's Hotel, the nearest point to several small lakes called Millsfield Ponds. From this point Umbagog Lake is fourteen miles dis- tant, where the steamer may be taken across thp lake, and a short drive will land the tourist at Richardson Lake, the first of the Rangeley chain of lakes. There are pleasant trips by steamer up the Magalloway River, a point of spe- cial interest in that connec- tion being the Aziscohos Falls, surroun- ded by the grandest of scenery, while old Aziscohos Mountain has no rival except the famous White Moun- tain peaks in the New Eng- land States, LakeWinnepe- saukee is also usually visited on the way to or from the Mountains, and may be ap- proached from different direc- tions. It lies in the Counties of Carroll and Belknap, is very irregular, in form and is about twenty-five miles long. Guides can be obtained at reasonable rates, and the lover of the rod or gun will always be insured the best of sport. d^uebec. There is no city in America more famous in the annals of histoid than Quebec, and few on the Continent of Europe more pic- turesquely situated . Whilst the surrounding WOLFE S MONUMENT scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Dosphoru«, the airy site of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edin- burgh. Quebec has been well termed the "Gibraltar of America," and is the only walled city on the continent. The scenic' beauty of Quebec has been the subject of general eulojjy. The majestic appearance of Cape Diainoiul and the fortifications — thecupolasand minarets, like those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun — the love- liness of the panorama — the noble basin, like a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with safety a hundred sail of the line — the graceful meandering of the River St. Charles, — the numerous vil- lage spires on each side of the St. Lawrence, — the fertile fields, dotted with innumer- able cottages, the abodes of a rich and mora peasantry — the distant Falls of Montmorency — the park- like scenery of Point Levis — the beauteous Isle of Orleans— and, more distant still, the frov.-ning Cape Tourmente, and the lofty range of purple mountains of the most pic- turesque forms which bound the prospect, unite to form a coup d'ail, which, without exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed in any part of the world. Few citiss offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fort- ress and a commercial city together, built I QUEBEC. '3 nrivalled views e of the citadel ruck and Edin- eil termed the id is the only It. The scenitf the subject of tic appearance fortifications — thecupolasand minarets, like those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun — the love- liness of the panorama — the noble basin, like a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with safety a hundred sail of the line — the graceful meandering of the River St, Charles, — the numerous vil- lage spires on each side of the St. Lawrence, —the fertile fields, dotted with innumer- able cottages, the abodes of a rich and mora peasantry — the acy— the park- —the beauteous tistant still, the and the lofty if the most pic- 1 the prospect, which, without le surpassed in 1 citias offer so uebec. A fort- together, built upon the summit of a rock, like the nest of an eagle, while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; a city of the middle ages by most of its ancient insti- tutions, while it is subject to all the com. binations of modern constitutional govern- ment ; a European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants of the Indian tribes and the barren mountains of the north ; a city with about the same latitude as Paris, while successively combining the torrid climate of southern regions with the severities of a hyperborean winter. Who is there on the American continent that would not wish to see Quebec ? The resolute Champlain, the haughty Frontenac, the devoted Laval and the chivalrous Mont- calm repose here, resting amid the scenes of their labours, after the turmoil of their earnest lives, while a monument on the Plains of Abraham bears the inscription, as graphic and expressive as any in the English language, " Here died Wolfe, victorious." ,^.y'- 'i *^^^m»m., -'''.• itP-*^ .... Wolfe's cove. The surrounding district is famed for its beauty, and is filled with objects of interest to the tourist. One of the prmcipal drives is to Falls of Montmorency, eight miles from the VIEW FROM THB CITADEL. city. We cross the St. Charles River — notice in succession the extensive ship building, the curi- ous market wag- gons and ponies of the Frenrh women, who mostly make the garden and market their produ . s, the old cottage where Montcalm had his head- quarters, near the scene of the first struggle for the possession of the city— until we reach the Montmorency River, with its " Natural Steps" and the Falls, 50 feet wide and 250 feet high. A solid mass of water falls, like a gossamer veil of beauty, into the stream below and disappears in the St. Lawrence ; small streams on each side, parted strands of light, follow the rocky seams, in a delightful tangle, down the chasm. No drive of the same distance, anywhere in the world, affords so much pleasure to the tourist as does this eight- mile drive to the famous Falls of Montmor- ency. The charming and romantic Falls of Lorette should also be visited ; of them a writer says: "The Lorette cascade would give fame and fortune to any spot in Eng- land or France." THE SAGUENAV. From Quebec, by the palatial steamers of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co., which run in connection with the Grand Trunk, some most enchanting trips on the Lower St. Lawrence may be made. The Saguenay is unquestionably one of M SUMMER RllSORTS. the most remarkable rivers on the continent ; it is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which eleven rivers fall. The Saguenay is not properly a river. It is a tremendous TAnOUSAC, Al MOUni OK SAGUHJIAY RIVER chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 miles through the heart of a mountain wilderness. The bed of the river is 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence. The shores were stripped of their forests by a great fire in 1810, but there are large numbers of hem- HA-HA BAY, SA(iUKNAV RIVER lock and birch trees in the neighbouring glens. The awful majesty, of its unbroken mountain shores, the profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues ot distance, have made the Saguenay unique amongst rivers, and it is yearly visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the Western World. The Saguenay is 142 miles down the St. Lawre nee from Quebec, and in the run down the Island of Orleans is passed, and 70 miles be- low Quebec are the cele- brated P'alls of St. Anne. Five miles below this again is met Grosse Isle, beautiful, but with sad memo- ries as the resting place of some 6,000 Irish emigrants. Ninety miles down stream is Murray Bay, a favorite watering-place of the St. Lawrence River, picturesquely situ- ated amid frowning hills and wild scenery Riviere du Loup passed, a couple of hours conveys the expectant tra- veller to Ta- dousac, at ttie mouth of the Saguenay ; the scenery ot the landward environs is described i n the name, which means, in the .Eng- lish language, knobs or ma- melons. The original name of the Saguenay was Chicoutimi, which signifies "deep water," and was so called by the Northern Indians, who here first encountered the profound depths of the i le the SaKuenay d it is yearly rists as one of Vestern World. TheSaguenay is 142 miles down the St. Lawro iice from Quebec, and in the run down the Island of Orleans is passed, and 70 miles be- low Quebec are the cele- brated Falls of St. Anne. Five miles below this again is met ith sad memo- )me 6,000 Irish 3wn stream is tering-place of luresquely situ- l wild scenery couple of hours conveys the expectant tra- veller to Ta- dousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay : the scenery ot the landward environs is described i n the name, which means, in the .Eng- lish language, knobs or ma- melons. The original name uutimi, which was so called who here first depths of the QIJKHKC i5 river ; the present name is a corruption of " St. Jean Nez." The water of the river, (hough crystal in iti. clearness, .ippears in many places black as midnight from the height of the awful cliffs which rise sheer to 1,000 and even 2,000 feet above the water. Captt Eternity, at the entrance to Trinity Bay, springs 2,000 feet upwards, and the river at its feet is more than 600 fathoms deep. The echo in the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blowing a whistle When the Flying Fish ascended the river with the Prince of Wales and his suite, one of the heavy f>H-pounders , . -^r"-^ Seven'milesfromithe Saguenay m " Ha-Ha Hay," which is ascended between lofty and serrated ridges, bri.stling with sturdy and stunted trees. So bro.nd and stately is this inlet, that it is said that the early French explorers ascended it in the belief th.it it was the main ri*rer, and the name originated from their exclamations on reaching the end, either of amusement at their mistake, or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of the meadows. Twenty miles further up is Chicoutimi an interesting village situated on the junc- tion of the Chicoutimi River with the .Sa- 4 - t . ./t ' , V ■'tU ■ ■i^ v the most fertile lands in f^wer Canada, and v'»hich havu resulted in the cunstruction of the (^iiehec & S'( John ^aJvay. I .»ko St. John is a map ''^ent ^kmtt 'ttt water, abounding in fish, such as the ouivaniche (landlocked salmon), pike, dace, and other smaller kinds, which afford the disciple of Izaak Walton excellent sport. O.ly on a very fine day can the other side of the lake be seen ; at all other times it conveys the impression of an inland sea. On a calm day its bosom is like a mirror ; but let a stiff north breeze blow for a couple of days, and white caps will be seen every- where, while breakers roll on its shores which would do credit to the Atlantic Fol- three hundred miles, while thn Mistauim! is traversed for a distance of zo miles, by 9 steamboat recently built, capable of carry- inK 300 persons. The whole of this northern region abounds with lakes, all of them liter- ally stocked with fish, especially the spotted trout, some of which have been caught weighing from 10 to 14 pounds. The region is remarkably healthy, the air cool, the soil dry and hard, and on many a lake a camp- fire has never been lit. In short, the tourist can spend a month in this district with p. r fe:t enjoyment, The Adirondacks are n..t more famous than these woods and waters of the north will soon be. Lake Edward, about midway between LAKK ST. JOHN. lowing up the west shore of the lake, the scenery is very tine. A distant blue point, hardly visible at first, gradually resolves itself into a long coast line, dotted '"ith larms, villages and churches, reminding one of the St. Lawrence below Montreal. The eye never tires of the beautiful landscape, so varied and full of interest. Lake St. John jr. distant from Quebec 190 miles, and trains ju. ""j'ly. This line opens up a most inter- ei'iii, rl uriique section of country to the BULiutici ■ .v.ii t ar :" sportsman, being char- acte-'.?-3i.' . t'r'. »T natural beauty, covered will. n;,ij:;;'' cfci't forests, ar.i" pf>nctrated in all (iii'eciio;> i)y many ana great rivers. The I'aribouc, which empties itself into l^ake St. John, is navigable to canoes nearly Quebec and Lake St. John, is a lovely lake, twenty-one miles in length, swarming with large trout of a i .1 moulinr to this lake, having a dark red ttjih. Among othe* ;i .'''U. u..., be mentic.jcl Lake St. Josep.., ^Jiu.cunded by mountains, the very base of which is almost touched by the little steamer plying on its waters. Ube Eastern XTownsbips. The Eastern Townships comprise a por- tion of the Province of Quebec south of the River St. Lawrence and adjoining the frontier of the United States, and call for particular mention. The chief town is Sher- brooke, with a population of some 8,000, at \f. MittaMimi 20 miles, by 9 Me of carry- tliis norlhern of them liter- ly the spotted been caught I. The region cool, the soil lake a camp- trt, the tourist net with per Jacks are not Is and waters way between a lovely lake, varming with to this lake, 3e mentiotiad )y mountains, St touched by waters. iidbtps. mprise a por- bec south of adjoining the and call for town is Sher- some 8,000, at i8 SUMMER RESORTS. the junction of the Magog and St. Francis rivers. Compton IS the centre of a rich farming and stock-raising country. Here is the celebrated establishment of the Honorable Senator Cochrane, known to all stock-raisers in the United States and Great Britain ; in fact, the choicest and most valuable cattle are here. /Montreal. Montreal, the commercial capital of the Dominion of Canada, and the " Queen of VICTORIA BRIDGE. the St. Lawrence," is one of the most bpau- tiful cities on the continent. It is situated on an island, at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence rivers, containing close on 200 square miles, and which, from its fertility, has been called the " Garden of Canada." Montreal is distant from Quebec 172 miles, from Toronto 333 miles, and from Ottawa 120 miles. The river front is lined for over a mile with lofty and massive walls, quays and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled else- where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris and St. Petersburg. Montreal wor founded in 1640, or the site of an Indian village, called Hochelaga, which was visited by French Jesuit mission- aries in 1542, nearly a hundred years before a permanent settlement was made. Mount Royal, from which the city derives its name, rises 700 feet above the river level, and ori the high ground around it are many elegant private residences, and a fashionable drive extends around the mountain, bordered by gardens and ornamental enclosures, and affording fine views in all directions. Its ecclesiastical buildings are well worthy of notice. The new Roman Catholic Cathe- dral of St. Peter, built in imitation of St. Peter's at Rome, is a noble structure, crowned by five domes, one of them 250 feet high. . hough smaller than the former Cathedral, the Church of Notre Dame is one of the finest churches on the Continent of America ; the view from one of the towers, in which hangs " Gros Bourdon," the great bell, is very extensive and interesting. Christ Church Cathedral is the best representative of English Gothic architecture in America. By means of the Grand Trunk Railway, Montreal is connected with the Western Provinces, and with Chicago and the West- ern States. On the south it connects, at Rouse's Point, with the railways for New York City, for Ogdensburg, and the whole system of roads in Western and Southern New York. At St. John's it connects with the roads to Boston and New England ; at Quebec it connects with the Intercolonial Railway, and thus with the Maritime Prov- inces ; and is in reality, as well as in name, the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. The new Bonaventure Station accommodates, in addition to the Grand Trunk trains, those of the Central Vermont, and Delaware and Hudson Canal Company. The Victoria Bridge, which crosses the St. Lawrence at Montreal, is one of the greatest engineering works of the world. It is the longest tubular bridge ever erected, and was completed in 1859 at a cost of }6, 300,000; its length is 9,184 feet; 3,000,000 cubic feet of masonry were used in its construction ; 8,250 tons of iron were used in tubes, and the force of men employed was over 3,000. The tubes rest on twenty-four piers, the main tubes being sixty feet above the summer level of the river. i Ired years before s made. Mount derives its name, /er level, and on ire many elegant fashionable drive ain, bordered by enclosures, and i directions. Its ! well worthy of Catholic Cathe- imitation of St. noble structure, )ne of them 25a ■ than the former Notre Dame is on the Continent one of the towers, irdon," the great iteresting. Christ 3st representative :ture in America. Trunk Railway, ith the Western go and the West- 1 it connects, at ailways for New g, and the whole rn and Southern it connects with ^Jew England ; at the Intercolonial B Maritime Prov- well as in name, of Canada. The accommodates, in •unk trains, those md Delaware and ich crosses the St. Dne of the greatest world. It is the r erected, and was ost of $6,300,000; ,000,000 cubic feet its construction ; ised in tubes, and d was over 3,000. 3ur piers, the main bove the summer MONTREAL. 19 ST. ANNE. St. Anne (Bout de I'lsles) is 21 miles from Montreal, and may be reached in an hour by the Grand Trunk Railway. It is much frequented in the summer season, and pos- sessesan ancient church much revered by the Canadian boatmen and voyageurs The Ottawa is here crossed by a fine railway bridge, and the famous rapids of St. Anne are flanked by a canal. Here Tom Moore wrote his Canadian boat song, beginning: Faintly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune, and onr oars keep time. Soon as the woods on the shore look dim We 11 sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn Row brothers, row ; the stream runs fast, lie Rap.ds are near, and the daylight's p.ist. Ottawa's tide ! this trembling moon Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; O. grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ' Blow breezes, blow ; the stream runs fast, The Rap.ds are near, and the daylight's p.ast. BEl.CEIL MOUNTAINS. One of the most attractive summer resorts •n the vicinity of Montreal, and one which .s rapidly growing i„ popularity, is the healthful and elevated plateau known by the above title. It is reached by the trains of the Grand Trunk Railway to St. Hilaire. and the frequent train service on the Port- and and Quebec line makes it very acces- sible. there being five daily trains each way between Montreal and St. Hilaire. This resort, in addition to the attractions of delightful scenery and a healthful, invig- orating atmosphere, affords excellent fishing boating and bathing, a magnificent lake in the vicinity furnishing abundant opportuni- ties for these recreations. There is a fine hotel, delightfully located on a high table rock, commanding a beautiful view of the adjacent country. There are also delightful promenades, secluded groves, and, what is of the highest importance at a summer resort, the purest of spring water and per- lect drainage. The summer tourist may conveniently visit this locality by stopping off in the journey .between the east and the west or may make it a side trip from Montreal, as desired. /©ontreal to flew J^orft. The route to New York City from Mont- real lies among some of the most celebrated scenery of America. It embraces Lake Champlain, Fort Ticonderoga, the Adiron- Ca;,\%, /r^'- ^^"'°8a Springs, the Catsk.lls, and the magnificent scenery of the Grand Trunk Railway, and crossing the St Lawrence by the famous Victoria Bridge' connection is made at Rouses Point wfth the De aware & Hudson Line. From this point the journey southward may be pur- sued entirely by rail, or partly by steamer, as desired. If the latter, the tourist may enjoy a delightful trip from Plattsburg to Ticonderoga, over the waters of the beau- tiful Lake Champlain, among the scenery made memorable by the annals of history rouse's point. Rouse's Point is picturesquely situated on historic Lake Champlain, between the Adir- ondacks and Green Mountains, whose lofty peaks form a picture of enchanting beauty as, like majestic sentinels, they stand guard over the placid and cooling waters of locatH ."""''"• ^°" Montgomery is located here, on the site of old "Fort Blunder, ' which name wasTgiven from the act that It was built on Canadian soil. llh V'^'^"^ '*'' foundationrof the famou Ashburton Treaty. It was at Rouse's Point, also, that the ake was entered at the time of its discovery J':ly4. 1609, by Champlain, after whom it' was named. It is one of the pleasantest and healthiest spots m Northern New York, and added to the beautiful location, the cool nights and balmy days, and honored historical waters there are health and life-giving waters, and a so a valuable sulphur spring. Excellent fishing IS to be obtained here, black bass. pike, pickerel, mascalonge and ydlow being I l§* mm ^ / : / ^^^^^^^■^ i:/d' i MONTREAL TO NKW YORK. 21 abundant ; while the hotel accommodation is everything that could be desired. THE ADIRONDACKS. The mountain refiion of North-western New York, known as the Adirondacks presents many attractions to the summer tourist. Surrounded on all sides by civi- lization, the traveller has only to pursue his journey a few miles to find hims-lf in a veritable wilderness. Once fairlv beyond :*-'*> I m ^."^^rV- KATTERSKILL FALLS. the haunts of men he reaches the forest fastness, and is alone with Nature and her children. The atmosphere is charged with the balsamic odor of the pine and spruce, and the clear waters of mountain streams lend their healtli-giving properties to make the region a delightful retreat for the invalid or the toil-worn seeker for recreation and variety. The celebrated Au Sable Chasm is reached by the Delaware & Hudson Road from Plattsburg, or by stage from Port Kent, and is well worthy of a visit. Lake George is a long, narrow body of water, dotted with beautiful islands, and surrounded by attractive mountain scenery. It IS one of the most fashionable summer resorts of America, its proximity to Sara- toga bringing the two into natural asso- ciation by pleasure-seekers. The summer houses of wealthy New Yorkers are numer- ous on its shores, and elegant hotels and superior boarding-houses are found at Cald- well, the fashionable centre for this locality. Mount Marcy, 5,337 feet in height, is exceeded in this part of the country only by Mount Washington. The peaks of the Adirondacks are conical, the slopes abrupt, and the scenery is wild and grand. The rivers Saranac and Au Sable flow from them north-east, and the Hudson, Cedar, and Boreas to the south. In the tract are many ponds and lakes ; Racquette Lake, very irregular in outline, being the largest. The Adirondack region once abounded in caribou, moose, deer, bear, panther, beaver, otter, and smaller game ; it is still a favorite hunting country, and is famous for salmon, trout, pike and other game fish. It is now one of the most, popular summer resorts for those who desire life in camp, or wild scenery. SARATOGA SPRINGS. Lying in the direct highway of pleasure travel, and with an established reputation, the Saratoga Springs may well be MONTREAL TO NEW YORK VIA DELAWARE AND HUDSON ROUTE. ^ MONTREAL TO NEW YORK. 33 included as a stopping place between Mont- real and New York. These famous springs, 28 in number, are situated on a plateau 10 miles west of the Hudson, and 32 miles from Albany. There are annually from 40,000 to 50,000 visitors, while the hotels, which are of great magnitude, can accommodate some 20,000 people. Four miles from the village is Saratoga Lake, reached by the Boulevard, a drive 100 feet wide, and lined with trees. Six of the springs of Saratoga are sprout- ing springs ; and all are charged with carbonic acid gas, and variously im- pregnated with mag- nesia, sulphur and iron ; some are chalybeate. The mineral springs of Saratoga were greatly used by the Indians. The fiist frame house was built there by Gen- eral Philip Schuyler in 1784; the large hotels have been built since 1815 ; and here the Eng- lish under Peter Schuyler def.vated the French under DeMantethin 1693. THE CATSKILLS. able to all reader." of American fiction. The tide of summer travel has made them scarcely less conspicuous in m.odern lore As immortalized by Washington Irving in his charming legends of the Hudson, the region of the Catskill Mountains has been made memor- LOWG GALLERY, AU SABLE CHASM. SO delightful are they to the visitor, not only for their intrinsic attractions, but from the legends associaied with the various localities '1 < L .1 K! OTTAWA—THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 25 o C a £ S 5 J; t) i» :h S § ■S "o .5 2 8°- 2j o n, being owned ciety called the tion. The park red acres, occu- ipland, rising in ng height, over- 1 extent. Taste- lilding lots into 3 park has been from this park, nd well worthy THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. *t ALEXANDRIA BAY, Sometimes called the •' Saratoga of the St. Lawrence." As a summer resort it is fairly entitled to the name, being one of the most popular watering places in America. Its summer hotels are among the most commo- dious and attractive to be found anywhere, while private cottap-es and villas have sprung up on every available site, both on the shore and on all the islands near. The facilities for fishing and boating, combined with the pure and invigorating atmosphere, and the beautiful scenery, attract to the place a tide of summer visitors ever increasing in volume with each succeeding year. The approach by boat is charmmg,"ks the pretty cottages come in view all along the shore, succeeded by the imposing hotel fronts as the harbor is neared. Among the handsome villas, that of the late Dr. J. G. Holland, "Bonnie Castle," is a conspicuous object, occupying a promontory which projects just below the landing. The last of the Thousand Islands are called the Three Sisters, from their resem- blance and proximity to each other. They are nearly opposite Brockville on the Can- ada shore, and Morristown on the New York side, the two towns being directly opposite each other. Brockville, named in honor of General Brock, is called the " Queen City of the St. Lawrence," and there is something regal in its appearance to warrant the bestow- ment of the title. Its glittering towers and church spires give an appearance of splen- dor. which the tourist will observe is a peculiarity of the Canadian cities to be 3ion in his trip, the metal with which they are covered retaining its brightness in a remarkable degree, owing to the purity and dryness of the atmosphere. Ogdensburg and Pre SCOTT.— These two cities, like those last mentioned, are opposite each other, and are both important points. The former lies on both sides of the Oswe- gatchie River, at its junction with the St. Lawrence. On account of its beautiful foliage, it has been appropriately entitled Maple City. Its extensive river front, with its railroad facilities, gives it a decided ad- vantage as a grain port. Large elevators and warehouses, for the transhipment of grain and other freight from the lake steamers, are ^mong the important enter- prises of the place. Prescott, on the Cana- dian shore, has in its vicinity several places of historical interest, among them being " Windmill Point " and " Chimney Island." Here, also, the tourist may resume the jour- ney by rail, if satiated with steamboating; but those who have never made the trip through the rapids will desire to remain on the boat to the finish at Montreal. A per- ceptible increase in the velocity of the cur- rent now begins to awaken interest among the passengers, and the boat is soon in the famous LACHINE RAPIDS. Lachine is nine miles from Montreal, and is a deservedly favorite summer resort ; it was so named by Champlain in 1613, because SHOOTING LACHINE RAPIDS. he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China (La Chine). The passage of these rapids, the most interesting on the St. Lawrence, is thus graphically described : " Suddenly a scene of wild grandmf:, massive to the archi- i sen City, " ] called the tiumber and would any- idrew's Pres- est piece of ca. Toronto i;al, religious, B of Ontario, visit this city :oniirodation t>le rates. In is alive with ill kinds, ply- ilan's Island, sxcursions by andest speci- n the world, seasons and er viewed by lazzling glare ummer, their 'ays sublime, arying thun- )f spray and liquid depths radiant rain- were paid by ; contract — a their name language the thunder of receives the NIAGARA FALLS. 39 waters of all the upper lakes— the Erie, St.TCIair, Huron, Michigan, Superior, and a gradual rise and fall, which is attributed to some undiscovered disturbance that aflTects NIAGARA FALLS a number of smaller .ones, and neither the snows of winter nor the evaporation of sum- mer, neither rains nor drought materially Lake Erie. The great maelstrom, called the Whirlpool, some distance below the Falls, excites much interest. Its depths are un- liOAT ISLA.NU BRIDGE. tT^.L'y1Z^1:iTl2 ;-" ''"'^'^'r- \ •^--.ax.ooofootcordwasfoundtoosho^ ♦Vl»' K ' *''* exception , to reach its bottom. There are three dJ«. that.about once every seven years they have ! tinct cataracts - the Horseshoe Fall, i ' J 30 SUMMKU HKSOKTS. caKv. • from its crescent nhape, in by far the largest, being a.ooo feet wide and 154 feet high ; the American {"all is 600 feet wide, and the Central Fall 243 feet, each having to the energies of l.ord fltiffrrin, thciijGov- ernor-General of Canada, and Governor Robinson of New York, parks on either side have been opened up free to the public JS6f was ( ■true purp( bottu ea z o in £ 1/1 D in a fall of 163 feet. The two latter are sepa- rated from each other and the former by Goat Island. The aggregate width is thus 2,900 feet, and the water discharged is com- puted to be 1,000,000 tons per hour. Thanks The Suspension Bridge, which is'crossed by the Southern (Great Western) Division of the Grand Trunk, is one of the engineer- ing triumphs of the age. It has a span of 1,230 feet from tower to tower, and|the floor is it I Then Niagan Dickens style, Si Americi torrent H NUGAKA l-ALLS, 31 in, thciiJGov- nd Governor on either nide le public. ajC feet above the vater level. This bridRe waiojwned Jan. 1, i86g; it is a two storied structure, the upper story being used for thn purposes of the Grand Trunk Ry., and tho bottum story for foot and passenger traffic. from some immense height, but had nojidea of shape or situation, or anything but vague immensity. When we were seated in the little ferry-boat, and were crossing the bwollcn river, immediately before both cat- s « O in ■A Ul 0, Ul 3 h is'crossed rn) Division he engineer- 's a span of id'the floor is There is no more graphic description of Niagara Falls than that of Mr. Charles Dickens, who thus, in his own characteristic style, says : " We were at the foot of the American Falls ; I could see an immense torrent of water tearing headlong down aracts, I began to feel what it was ; but I was in a measure stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of the scene. It was not until I came on Table Rock and looked— Great Heaven ! on what a|;fall of bright-green water !— that it came.upon me 32 SUMMER RESORTS. in its full might and majesty. Then, when I felt how near to my Creator I was stand- ing, the first effect and the enduring one- instant and lasting — of the tremendous spectacle, was peace. Peace of mind, tran- quility, calm recollections of the dead, great thoughts of eternal rest and happiness ; nothing of gloom and terror, Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart, an image of beauty, to remain there, changeless and indelible, until its pulses cease to beat for- ever." In short, the whole line of the Grand Trunk opens up a fruitful field to those who are open to the sweet influences of Nature, and who with the poet can Trcid this wondrous world : Sec all Its store of inland waters hurled In one v:i!>t volume down Niagara's steep, Or calm behold them, in transparent sleep, Where the blue hills of old Toronto shed Their evening shadows o'er Ontario's bed ; Should trace the grand Cataraqui, and glide Down the white rapids of his lordly tide. Through mossy woods, 'mid islets flowering f»ir, And blooming glades, where the first sinful pair For consolation might have, weeping, trod, When banished from the garden of their God. Ube /IMMan& XaKes. The Midland Division of the Grand Trunk Railway takes the tourist through some of the most picturesque and varied scenery — a pleasant, and everchanging panorama, while, at the same time, it is a perfect sportsman's paradise. The Midland has four terminal stations, Toronto, Whitby, Port Hope, and Belleville, and from all these the chief {joints are easily and speedily reached. Toronto has already been amply described. Whitby, once a Seneca village, and early settled by the French, is 30 miles east, bordering on Lake Ontario. Port Hope, formerly the Gane- raske of the Indians, is one of the pleasantest of the lakeside towns. It boasts of a capital harbor, and during the season of navigation the large steamer Norseman plies regularly between this place and Rochester, many «portsmen choosing this route to reach the famous hunting-grounds of Midland, Ontario ; reduced fares being made for fish- ermen and shooters. Belleville is an incor- porated city, beautifully situated on the Bay of Quints. The River Moira passes through the city, and furnishes water-power for the numerous manufacturing industries of the' place. In the summer time steamers leave daily for different ports along the bay and River St. Lawrence. Massassauga Point, on this bay, is quite a resort, and excellent fishing is to be had here. Among the wind- ing and romantic shores of this bay the more destructive form of enterprise has happily stayed its hand, so that much of the primi- tive beauty survives. Then, too, the charm of this famous bay is in no slight measure due to cloud effects and the changeful humor of the sun, while the inlets and wooded headlands, and the waving barley-fields beyond— for the barley of the Bay of Quinte is far famed,— all add to the beauty of the surrounding scenery. One of the first places to be visited in this district is the charming Trent River, which may be reached from either Trenton or Campbellford. It is navigable for canoes, with one or two short portages, some pic- turesque falls are met with, and its waters teem with maskalonge and black bass. In the summer of 1883 the American Canoe Association met here, and so charmed were they with the delightful scenery and places they visited, that in the following year their visit was renewed. As numerous tourists now seek a summer outing in a canoe, it may not be uninteresting to follow the mem- bers of the Association in their trip, who, with their friends and families, numbered some four hundred. Passing up the Trent River, Rice Lake was reached, one of the prettiest of the inland waters, and which is specially reserved by Government for fish- ing purposes, a permit being granted to appHcants at a nominal cost. This lake was most appropriately named, for as the early pilgrims approached this water they found it deeply fringed with wild rice, over which hovered clouds of wild fowl — beautiful wood-duck, with summer glistening in their plumage ; also fall and winter duck, just returned from the north. Throughout this lake are scattered conical islets, wooded with maples, whose bright leaves at times itedon the Bay passes through -power for the dustries of the' steamers leave ig the bay and assauga Point, , and excellent nong the wind- is bay the more se has happily 1 of the primi- too, the charm slight measure angeful humor i and wooded I barley-fields Bay of Quinte beauty of the ! visited in this t River, which T Trenton or lie for canoes, ges, some pic- and its waters lack bass. In terican Canoe :harmed were :ry and places 'ing year their erous tourists n a canoe, it How the mem- oir trip, who, «s, numbered up the Trent d, one of the , and which is ment for fish- g granted to This lake was r as the early er they found e, over which f/\ — beautiful ening in their er duck, just roughout this slets, wooded aves at times THE MIDLAND LAKES. 33 fall on the water like flakes of fire. A town- ship on the lower edge of Rice Lake has been aptly named Asphodel-no unfit designation for well-watered meadows, where the shades 01 Indian heroes may still linger ! My foobteps press where centuries ago Whof/, -^^ ^°.''*'" """^ ^°"1""ed ; lost and won. hIv. f '"''f »"!'»"«. gone like last year's snow. Have found the Eternal Hunting. Grounds and r^n The fiery gauntlet of their active days. Uat.1 few are left to tell the mournful tale ; And these inspire us with such wild amaze, They seem like spectres passing down a vale Steeped In uncertain moonlight, on their way Tnd n'i l!""" ''°"""' *''"'' ''"''"" blinds the day. And night .s wrapped in mystery profound We cannot lift tl.e mantle of the pLt ; vve seem to wander over hallowed ground • We scan the trail of thought, but all i, overcast. On Rice Lake the chief Indian settlement is Hia- watha — named after the hero of Ojibbeway mytho- logy, whom Long- fellow has immor- talized in his melodious troch- aics. Here you may still find, in the ordinary Ian. guage of the Ojib- beway," fragments of fine imagery and picture-talk. often in the very words which the American poet has so happily woven together, while the scenery Va le o'f t""' ^^":^ -P-'J-es that of the' Vale of Tawasentha. Here are ■■ the wild r.ce of the nver.- and •• the Indian Village.- and the groves of s.nging pi„e trees, ever sighing ever singing." At Fenelon Falls we have ■■Minnehaha,"-.. Laughing Water • ■- andno arbeow.sSturgeonLake,thereaIm of he ..Kingly Fishes." Sturgeon of por- tentous size are yet met with, though fall- mg somewhat short of the comprehensive fish song by Longfellow, which swallowed Hiawatha, canoe and all. Still revenons a hos moutons, and pursuing the course of our canoes, the Otonabee— " Mouthwater "-River wac next entered, and the journey continued to Lakefield a station of the Midland Division of the Grand Irunk system. The Otonabee here expands into Lake Ketchewanook. the Lake of thejlapids;" thence, between bold and rocky banks, it races, rather than flows, to Peterboro'. the channel descending 150 feet in nine miles. Clear Lake, where- the overflow of the whole lake chain i-= gathered into a crystal funnel, is next en- tered, and junction made with Stony Lake which owes its wild beauty to the Laurentian^ lormation, which often abruptly closes the vista with beetling crags of red or gray WATCHING FOR DEER. gneiss, and which here formed the islands which. ,„ the years above alluded to were whiten.d by the tents of the Cano; Association. »->inoe Birdie Falls. Love-Sick Lake, and Fairy i^ake, are all a continuation of this water system and offer the canoeist an unrntr rup ted course of some 500 miles through a variety of scenery, which the world can no whe. excel, for natural and .icturesc^e If you seek to know how the time of the members of this Association was passed! Emerson can well answer : f ". JJ 34 SUMMER RESORTS. I ) Ask you, how went the hours ? All day wc swept the lake, searched every cove. North from Camp Maple, south to Oaprey Bay, Watching when the loud dogs should drive in deer ; Or whipping its rough surface for a trout ; Or bathers, diving from the rock at noon ; Challenging echo by our guns and cries ; Or listening to tlie laughter of the loon ; Or in the evening twilight's latest red. Beholding the procession of the pines ; Or, later yet, beneath a lighted jack. In the boat's bows, a silent night-hunter. Stealing with paddle to the feeding grounds Of the red deer, to aim at a square mist. Hark to that muffled roar ! A tree in the woods Is fallen ; but hush ! it has not scared the buck, Who stands astonished at the meteor light, Then turns to bound away, — is it too late ? PORT PERRY. By the Trent Valley Canal the charming and romantic village of Bobcaygeon is reached. The steamer Beaubocage, which plies between Lindsay and Bobcaygeon, would evidently associate the name with the French explorers, and to their outspoken admiration of the "lovely woodlands" on these waters. Without doubt, the fishing in this neighborhood is the very finest to be had in the country. The village is sur- rounded by water on ^11 sides, and the ripples of the falls can be plainly heard. There is excellent hunting to be had in these parts ; deer abound, and guides are readily procured, the season lasting from October 15th to December 15th. Bobcaygeon was founded by the ancestors of Mr. Mos- som Boyd, a gentleman resident here, whose- generous hospitality has been freely granted to many a seeker of sport in his locality. From this place a pleasant excursion, by means of the Trent Valley Navigation Com- pany, may be made to Sturgeon Point, where is located one of the best summer hotels in Canada, with capital fishing near by ; thence through Sturgeon Lake and Scugog River to Lindsay. Lindsay, charmingly situated on the Scu- gog River, is one of the pleasantest of the inland towns of Canada. It has a population of up- wards of 5,000 in- habitants ; is the county seat of Vic- toria County, con- tains the county buildings, and sev- eral fine churches and schools, while its river facilities offer many pler'^ant excursions by water. North of Lindsay are Fenelon Falls, named after the early French mis- sionary of Canada, who .was a brother of the great arch- bishop. These falls I enlist the admiration of all who see them. They are picturesquely situated where Lake Cameron empties itself into the Fenelon River ; and the Government have erected locks here to complete this chain of inland communication. Progressing in a northerly direction Haliburton is reached, by a branch of the Grand Trunk formerly known as the Victoria Railway. Here are to be found the great lumber regions of the English Colonization Company, where are numerous lakes and streams ; where lovers of the gentle art can meet with the best of sport, while there is no section of country where \ THE MIDLAND LAKES. 33 )n lasting from th. Bobcaygeon )rs of Mr. Mos- lent here, whose' n freely granted in his locality, t excursion, by lavigation Conn- Sturgeon Point, le best summer tal fishing near {eon Lake and ited on the Scu- pleasantest of inland towns of ada. It has a jlation of up- 3s of 5,000 in- itants ; is the ity seat of Vic- i County, con- s the county dings, and sev- fine churches schools, while river facilities r many plt"i;ant irsions by water, orth of Lindsay Fenelon Falls, tn e d after the y French mis- lary of Canada, ) .was a brother the great arch- lop. These falls 1 who see them, ated where Lake ito the Fenelon !nt have erected chain of inland ng in a northerly :hed, by a branch irly known as the are to be found of the English ere are numerous •e lovers of the he best of sport, ot country where deer are more plentiful. There are important stone quarries here, while Mount Snowden may be regarded as a solid mountain of iron South of Lindsay is Port Perry, a prettily situated town of some 3,000 inhabitants, on the Scugog, possessing many attractions to the tourist. Thirty miles east of Port Hope, and 90 miles north-east of Toronto, is the thriving town of Peterboro', which is now entering the dignity of a city, and whose growth and development have been rapid and well and no one making a tour in Midland Ontario should neglect a visit to this place. Further east, and a terminal point of the line. IS Madoc. which can also be reached from Belleville, a distance of some 30 miles. To the miner and metallurgist. Madoc town- ship became in tha fall of 1866 an object of the keenest interest, from the discovery of gold on the upper course of the Moira. Iron mining m this district has long been asso- ciated with the township of Marmora. This region affords some splendid scenery ■ there ISLAND ON STONY LAKE. assured. No part of Canada owes more to Its fpioneers than this charming and most healthful lake-land. Some of the finest towns ;were, two generations ago, jungles reeking with malaria, and infested by wolves black flies, black snakes, and black bears' Now all is [transformed. The history of Peterboro' dates back to 1825. when Peter Robinson led thither his first band of Irish emigrants. The town has now a population of someSio.ooo inhabitants, and is joined to the village of Ashburnham. opposite, by a handsome bridge. There is good hotel ac- commodation.;excellent fishing in the river. IS capital hunting and good hotels, while Lake Moira, named after an early governor, the Earl of Moira, is without doubt one of prettiest lakes in the world. A two hours' trip from Toronto lands the tourist in the beautiful village of Sutton chiefly populated by old English settlers.' and which abounds in points of interest and picturesque scenery. At Jackson's Point one mile from the village, has been erected.' under the auspices of the citizens of Toronto and the residents of Sutton, one of the finest summer hotels in Canada, while capital fish- ing is to be had here, and from this point . '■jsriiirdamiii 36 SUMMER RESORTS. steamers ply across Lake Simcoe to Big Bay Point, thence to Barrie, to Onllia ano to Lake Couchiching, all of which interesting places are described further on. Lake Sim- coe is one of the most beautiful and favored lakes of Canada, and to those desiring a pleasant and cheap stay on its shores, Jack- son's Point is strongly commended as a most charming summer resort. TOiiONTO TO BALSAM LAKE. There are so many pleasant trips to be taken in connection with this Midland route, that only a personal visit can succinctly por- :Hia»l§tfSi to Lindsay. In short, throughout this regio. there is no more ubiquitous system of rail- roads than this Midland Division of the Grand Trunk. Another point interesting to the tourist is Chemong Lake, which may be reached from any of the frontier termini, via Peterboro', and a drive of six miles. In succession to this, a pleasant trip is to Stony and Clear lakes, thence to Bobcaygeon, Sturgeon Lake and Lindsay. The Grand Trunk Company are now completing an extension of line from Peterboro' to Bridge-vorth, at the head of Chemong Lake, which will obviate all neces- sity Ifor'staging.;;"}' 'Mii ZBIT, VIEW ON LAKE COUCHICHING. tray the beauties and infinite varieties of this region, A very popular 'rip is that to Ealsam Lake, which may be easily reached from Cobo- conk, a terminal point of the Midland Divi- sion. This lake has many attractions for the tourist, the surrounding scenery must please all, while for fishing and hunting this district is unsurpassed by any. A charming residence in this neighborhood is that of Mr. George Laidlaw, whose hospitality has always been so freely and openly extended to visitors to this neighborhood. A very pleasant steamboat excu^rsion may be made from Coboconk, through Balsam Lake and some small, heavily-wooded streams, to Fenelon Falls, and thence by rail or steamer The northern terminus of this Division 01 the Grand Trunk is at Midland, a thriving and enterprising town, pleasantly situated on the Georgian Bay, and which possesses historical associations of interest, as having been one of the early settlements of Sebas- tian Cabot. There is an old fort here, the traces of which are yet to be seen, and old muskets and bayonets are often dug up. Strange as it may seem to any one studying the map of Canada, by Midland was the'early route from East to West, prior to any knowl- edge of Lr'.te Ontario, the path taken being by the Ottawa R' er, and thus to the Georgian Bay, from which a Government road led to Lake Simcoe, then by canoes to Beaverton, and by the Yonge Street road to Toronto. THE MIDLAND LAKES.-THE NORTHERN LAKES. 37 lit this regio. stem of rail- ision of the the tourist is reached from i Peterboro', luccession to ay and Clear turgeon Lake nk Company Q of line from the head of ate all neces- is Division ot id, a thriving ntly situated ich possesses est, as having ints of Sebas- fort here, the seen, and old ften dug up. one studying I was the'early to any knowl- taken being by the Georgian int road led to to Beaverton, to Toronto. From Midland, by the Muskoka & Nipis- sing Navigation Company, a service is given to Parry Sound, and a tri-weekly service to Byng Inlet. One of the greatest attractions afforded by this line are the facilities granted to camping expeditions. Annually several thousand families are carried to the various islands which dot the Georgian Bay, and which in number and variety surpass the Thousand Isles, and here establish a sum- me.- camp, while the steamers which ply this route make a daily call at all inhabited islands, for the purposes of furnishing neces- saries, delivering or receiving mails, and other requirements. At Honey Harbor, on this route, are estab- lished apiaries, under the charge of the Rev. Dr. Clark, in connection with the American and Canadian Bee Association. There are four or five distinct apiaries, located in various islands, where different breeds are cultivated, but sufficiently far apart to prevent intermingling. This is a capital sporting centre, while an immense amount of grain is received here from Chicago, and duly forwarded to the markets of the East Midland harbor is without exception the finest in the Upper Lakes of America ; ves- sels drawing i6 feet can come alongside the wharves and esplanade without pilots or steam tugs. This harbor was jointly made by the Grand Trunk Railway and the Govern- ment of Canada. There is here one of the largest grain elevators in the Dominion, with a capacity of 300,000 bushels; while the town is the centre of a large lumber business, being second only to that of Ottawa ; there being some 30 lurxiber mills, with an annual output of 150,000,000 feet. In short, in this neighborhood will be found the most attractive of Canada's forest shrines, encircled By the laughing tides thai lave Those Bdens of the Northern wave. Ube flortbern Xahes. By their recent acquireraep* of the North- ern & North-Western Railways, the Grand Trunk have added an important connection to their already extended -system. There is no portion of Canada which offers so invit- ing a field to the summer tourist as the varied scenery to be found in the Muskoka district and along the shores of the Georgian Bay, all of which points are reached by tho Northern & North-Western Division of the Grand Trunk. The Muskoka re- gion, with Its many hundreds of lakes and streams, is un- doubtedly the best place on the continent for fishing, shoot- ing or camping. The fishing, consisting ot brook and sal- mon trout, black bass, maskalonge • and pickerel, i s unequalled ; partridge abound and deer are plentiful. As a health resort it cannot be sur- passed. The many lakes here to b*" found are amor, the high- est on ti.e conti- nent, being 750 feet above Lake Ontario, 415 feet -■M-N 1: b hvwK 38 SUMMER RESORTS. above Lake Huron, and 390 feet above Lake Superior. At Lefroy is seen the first viev>' of Lake Simcoe, the first of the various chains of inland lakes which are now met with in suc- cession. A ferry ateamer keeps up constant connection with Roach's Point, a pretty village which is much frequented by tourists GRANITE NOTCH. in summer on account of its excellent boat- ing and fishing. Barrie, on this lake, is a delightful summer resoii, with an excellent fleet of boats and yachts, and with good fishing streams in the neighborhood. Ten miles from Barrie, on the shores of Lake Simcoe and Kempenfeldt Bay, is Pen- insular Park — Big Bay Point — with its sum- mer hotels. This is an excellent and popular resort. Steamers ply regularly between Barrie and this point, making connection with trains from and to Hamilton and Toronto. At the foot of Lake Couchiching, which is joined to Lake Simcoe by a channel known as the " Narrows," is Orillia, a favorite centre of summer travel, and a town which is fast rising in importance. The Indian nomenclature of Couchich- ing is especially appropri- ate and descriptive ; here the varying breezes, wel- come adjuncts of a summer resort, that fan the surface of the lake, have given the Indian name for " Lake of Many Winds." A pleasant place is Couchiching Park, situated on the point of a narrow promontory pro- jecting a mile and a-half northward into the lake, and surrounded on three sides by water ; thus, come from whatever quarter it may, every breeze has play, while the lake on the one side or other, being pro- tected by the point from wind and wave, pleasure- boating is safe, and calm waters can at all times be enjoyed. Strawberry Island, ten miles from Orillia, on Lake Simcoe, is well deserving of a visit. There is here a capital hotel and fine summer cottages. This re- sort is owned by Captain Chas. Mclnnis, who has a first-class steamer, by means of which con- nection is kept up daily between the Island and Orillia. At Rama, on this lake, is the "reservation" of the last remnants of the Ojibheways. Splendid brook trout are caught in the streams in the neighborhood, and the finest black bass fishing in America is in these surrounding lakes. First among the sporting districts of the northern lakes is the Severn^River, which. king connection Hamilton and liching, which is channel known LLiA, a favorite id a town which :e. The Indian lire of Couchich- jcially appropri- escriptive ; here ig breezes, wel- ictsof a summer t fan the surface !, have given the ne for " Lake of ds." A pleasant )uchiching Park, !\ the point of a romontory pro- mile and a-half into the lake, unded on three ater ; thus, come tever quarter it 'breeze has play, lake on the one Iher, being pro- the point from wave, pleasiire- ; safe, and calm 1 at all times be Try Island, ten I Orillia, on Lake 3 well deserving , There is here hotel and fine Jttages. This re- 'ned by Captain innis, who has a IS of which con- tween the Island this lake, is the remnants of the rook trout are le neighborhood, hing in America !S. y districts of the rniRiver, which. THE NORTHERN LAKES. 39 after a short run, leads to Sparrow Lake, which has long been celebrated for the excellence of its fishing, but particularly for the deer, duck and ruffled grouse shoot- ing, obtainable in their proper seasons. After passing the Severn nothing but granite meets the eye; massive in form, deep red in color, and with a micaceous sheen shining through it. Winding through the "divide" the granite rocks raise high their lofty sides, bluff cliffs overhang the railway as it curves around their bases, in some places the front portion of the tiain is lost to sight from the rear, but finally the " Granite Notch "is reach- ed, and the rail- way slips thro' a natural gap, fortunately left for its passage by Nature. The Muskoka district, known as the " High- lands of On- tario," has some eight hundred lakes of all sizes, from 30 miles in length to mere ponds, which, with their river connections, occupy no less than one-tenth of the surface. By means c I the Muskoka & Nipissing Navi- gation Company a fine line of steamers make connection with this interesting chain of lakes. Boats leave Muskoka Wharf for Bracebridge, Beaumaris, Port Carling, Win- dermere, Rosseau, and intermediate places. There is a tri-weekly service to Bala and Rosseau Falls; daily to Clevelands, Gregory, Port Sandfield, Redwood, Craigielea, Port Cockburn. and semi- weekly to juddhaven, all of which are places which are well worthy of a visit from the tourist, and where excel- ent sport can always be had. At Gravenhurst and Bracebridge railway connections are made with trains of the Northern cS: North-Western Division of the Grand Trunk Railway to Burks Falls and other points, thence per steamer Wenonah on the upper Ma^^uetawan waters, and from Midland and Penetanguishene to Parry Sound, Byng Inlet, and French River. To facilitate travel, for business men and others, arrangements have been made for an inter- change of tickets between Bracebridge and FISHING ON LAKE MUSKOKA. Gravenhurst, and parties purchasing return tickets between these points have the choice of routes, either rail or water. Lake Muskoka is one of the largest of the lakes comprised under the generic term of the " Lakes of Muskoka," being 22 miles long and g miles wide, while it is studded with some 350 islands, and affords splendid fishing. Bracebridge, the chief town of the Mus- koka district, and a station of the Northern & North-Western Division of the Grand Trunk, is agreeably situated on the cliffs of the River Muskoka, and the neighborhood merits a sojourn from the tourist to visit its If: i M pi 40 SUMMER RESORTS. interesting surroundings. Near by e the High Falls and the Great South ' ^s, the most commanding natural featu- . Mus- koka. Beaumaris, the southern ic^t of these summer resorts, and which boasts of a large and excellent hotel, is situated on Tondern Island. Here is capital bathing and a sandy beach. Immediately opposite, and on the route which the steamer takes when cross- HIGH FALLS. ing to the western side of the lake, is a cluster of small islands, known as the ■" Kettles," where the very best bass fishing and splendid trolling for salmon trout may be found. Port Carling is the most central of all the villages on the lakes, being the converging point for all the steamers running to and fro on the three lakes, thus access to all parts can most conveniently be obtained from this centre. At this point locks connect Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau. Lake Rosseau is fourteen miles long in its extremest points, and is one of the most interesting and charming of lakes in this region. The scenery is much varied, and at One point there is a most remarkable echo. The southern portion of this lake is fairly gemmed with islets, and as they were early selected for their beauty and admirable situation, more island population has been accumulated in this part than in any other. The lower part of Lake Rosseau is called " Venetia," and it is aptly designated, for not in Venice itself are boats more used or needed. The Shadow River, one of the most wonderful natu- ral curiosities of the Mus- koka region, empties its waters into the bay on the shores of which Port Ros- seau stands. In front and behind, the river winds like a silver creek, hemmed in on either side by forest trees, and losing itself in the distant curves. The surface is as motionless as glass, and everything is duplicated in marvellous detail, each leaf and branch having its reflected coun- terpait, even more distinct than it appears itself. The fair trees look over, side by side, And see themselves below. On a small tributary of the Shadow River are the Bridal Veil Falls, which make silver music in the forest grove, and a visit per- chance may give some hesitating, anxious swain an opportunity of freeing from his halting tongue the words which cleave so closely to his heart. The lofty headland of Eagle's Nest is a conspicuous and interesting spot on this lake. Lake Joseph, the third of the series of the THE NO^.THERN LAKES. 41 locks connect series of the lakes of Muskoka, was for a long time a mare inrognitum, except to venturous spirits, though those who have viewed the charms of this lake claim for it a beauty surpassing that of all others. Its islands rise more abruptly, and to higher elevations, and more rug-ed cliffs line its shores, than do those of the other lakes. All who have visitod these charramg regions will agree with the enco- miums paid to these three lakes — Muskoka, Rosseau and Joseph. It is hard to say which of the three is the most beautiful ; but no more enchanting summer tour is offered on this con tinent, while most comfort- able and home-like hotels are everywhere to be found . The extension of this Northern & North-Western Division of the Grand Trunk to Lake Nipissing has opened up a new and most inviting field to the tourist and sportsman. Twenty-four miles by train from Gravenhurst, Utterson, a station of this line, is reached, where with- in easy access is Mary Lake, one of the gems of Mus- koka. Its surface is studded with many islands, where berries of various kinds are plentiful in the season, and where delightful spots may be chosen for picnics and camps. At the foot of the lake, upon a gentle eleva- tion overlooking its length, is Port Sydney. A good supply of boats is kept here, and most pleasant trips may be made upon these romantic little lakes. Progressing further to the north. Hunts- ville. a rapidly.growing commercial centre, and an important tourist point, is reached. Connection is here made with a new chain of lakes, whose waters may be followed, either west to their source, or east and south, until they are drained by the Muskoka River. From Hunlsville a most seductive trip may be made up the lakes, either by steamer or canoe. Throughout these upper waters, and in the tributary streams, there is excel- lent trout fishing. Katrine is an important railway point, and is the centre ef a splendid lake country ; and here connection may be made with the Magnetawan River chain. The railway GREAT SOUTH FALLS. MUSKOKA RIVER. continues following the banks for four miles, during which the river is crossed four times, and Burk's Falls is reached. This station again opens up another and entirely new region in steamboat navigation to the tourist and sportsman, who can now reach with comparatively little trouble a district which has hitherto been accessible only to those with ample means and tiipe. This chain of lakes and the Magnetawan River are just pi % > i SUMMER RESORTS. I equidistant bfitween the Muskoka and Nipis- sing chain of waters, and drain a surface of about 4,000 square miles. A writer in Forest and Farm thus speaks of the Magnetawan : " Now a word about the region. If a man can stand out-door life, and live on venison, trout, bass, partridges, ducks, pork, tea and crackers, there is no better place to go to in America that is as THE BRIDAL VEIL FALLS. accessible. A man can go there in July, August, September or October with comfort, if he will go in the right way, and shoot de^r and catch trout to his heart's content. June to August for trout, after that for deer. Remember the Magnetawan is as large as the Schuylkill at Philadelphia, or consider- ably wider and deeper than the Harlem at High Bridge, and that the trout have an unlimited range, and are seldom disturbed. so that they have a chance to grow. Deer can be bagged in great numbers if you choose to do so ; with a couple of good hounds magnificent sport could be had in the fall. I have shot partridges with my rifie from the canr? while travelling, as they were strutting on the shore, and their ' drumming ' was one of the pleasantest, everyday sounds, Do not try to go without some guide. Th;.'re are men who know the coun- try, and they should be secured, f">r if you get in there alone you will have little sport and much trou- ble. I have no possible interest in noticing this re- gion except that I believe it to be unsurpassed in many ways." From Burk's Falls a steamer of the Muskoka Navigation Company may be taken. For fifteen miles the river is followed, wind- ing to and fro, as all Mus- koka rivers seem to do. After passing through the locks the steamer continues for three miles more in the river, and then enters the lovely Lake Ah-Mic. This is another of the gems of Muskoka; most quaint in form, its arms and elonga- tions form a very maze of interlacings, so their con- stant vistas of projecting heights, with glimpses of distant waters and high ridges, with closely-wooded forests of hardwood trees, give soft, rounded outlines to the distant scenery. In summer this combination of the^rich greens of the maple, oak and birch, is most beautiful, but when ii. autui.jn the bright red tmts show forth their resplendent colors, it is simply indescribable. At Callander, 108 miles from Graven- hurst, where the Canadian Pacific Railway is tapped, the first glimpse is obtained of o grow. Deer limbers if you ouple of good luld be had in idges with my travelling, as hore, and their ^e pleasantest, ^ to go without Th-re are now the coun- ley should be if you get in you will have md much trou- e no possible oticing this re- that I believe it )assed in many irk's Falls a the Muskoka Company may or fifteen miles 'ollowed, wind- ro, as all Mus- leem to do. ing through the amer continues les more in the hen enters the Ah-Mic. This f the gems of nost quaint in is and elonga- i very maze of so their con- of projecting h glimpses of e: s and high :losely-wooded e soft, rounded on of the.rich birch, is most Lin the bright lendent colors, from Graven- 'acific Railway is obtained of THE NORTHERN LAKES. 43 Lake Nipissing, and here the steamers touch for various parts of this interesting lake. This lake is about 45 miles in length, and its greatest breadth is 28 miles. Its waters are mostly received from the north by the Sturgeon River, which connects it with a chain of smaller lakes; the only outlet is French River, by which the lake discharges into Georgian Bay. This lake is named after an Indian tribe, known as the Nipissings, who lived in this district, and who were regarded by Cartier, and other French adven- turers, as a peculiarly su- perstitious race. In short, the whole of the Muskoka district may be deemed a very sports- man's paradise. The wa- ters of the ii.;kes and streams abound in fish, while the forests afford excellent shootin ,'. The hunter and fisherman is certain to find almost unlimited sport, the game embracing a large variety, from partridge, duck, geese, etc., up to deer, moose and bear ; while the waters yield to the angler their treasures of bass, pickerel, brook trout, salmon trout, and maskalonge. Steamers ply. upon the lakes, which are connected by rivers and streams, large and small, on some of which are pretty cascades and waterfalls. Penetanguishene, one of the termini of the Northern & North-West- ern Division of the Grand Trunk, is pleas- antly situated on a land-locked bay at the foot of Georgian Bay. It is one of the his- toric spots of Canada. It was once the naval depot, on the upper lakes, of the British Navy, and under the waters of its harbor lie the remains of four gun-boats. In the year 1634 'he Jesuit Fathers first settled in Ontario, at Ihonatiria— now Penetang— in commemoration of which the Jesuits have built a very beautiful church, one of the grandest ecclesiastical structures in America. The channels which dot the entrance to the harbor are excellent for pickerel, maskalonge and bass fishing, The steamer Maxweil runs daily, on arrival of trains from Toronto and Hamilton, between Penetang, Midland and Parry Sound, and eagle's nest, lake rosseau. from thence weekly to French River, and semi-weekly to Byng Inlet. The scenery from Penetang to Parry Sound is amongst the most varied and picturesque anywhere to be found, the steamer winding in and out a continuous series of islands of every de- scription, which cannot but enchant the tourist. From Collingwood, which may be almost termed the terminal point of the Northern f i' w ■> .i t 44 SUMMER RESORTS. and North- Western Division of the Grand Trunk, a line of nteamers, the property of the Great Northern Transit Co.-npany, which run in connection with the Grand Trunk, make frequent trips throuxh what must rightly be called the most enchanting water scenery of this continent, Lvery Monday and Thursday, during the season of naviga- tion, the Northern Belle, on the arrival of trains from Toronto and Hamilton, makes trips to Parry Sound, which place is reached after a few hours' sail through some of the route, the return journey being made twice a week to Collingwood. Collingwood is a charming, cleanly town, and presents attrac- tions in itself, which awaken a general desire for a further acquaintance, and a few days may bo spent here very pleasantly. Meaford, twenty miles away, is delight- fully situated under the shelter of Cape Rich, a bold headland, stretching ten miles out into the bay. The "Big Head" and "Beaver Rivers near by are celebrated for their brook trout. I % SCENE IN MUSXOKA. 6 most romantic of scenery, passing through a succession of the most beautiful and varied islands, which in their number and variety far surpass the famed Thousand Islands, as it is computed that there are over 20.000 islands in the Georgian Bay, of all sizes, from mere dots to hundreds of acres, with high, towering clifl-like centres. Resting i night at Parry Sound, the steamer the next morning proceeds to Byng Inlet, a famous fishing resort, and thence to French River, another famous resort for lovers of the rod. This is^the t/ minal point of [this line of MACKINAC AND NORTH SHORE ROUTE. Possibly the most charming and popular water trip offered on the Continent of America is that from Collingwood, along the North Shore Route, to the far-famed Island of Mackinac. The boats leave every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, on the arrival of morning trains from Toronto and Hamilton, and, calling at Meaford and Wiarton, sail up the Georgian Bay through a succession of varied and picturesque islands to Killarney on the north shore. Bg made twice llingwood is a resents attrac- general desire nd it faw days antly. ay, is deliRht- elter of Cape hing ten miles K Mead " and ire celebrated THE NORTHERN LAKES. I SHORE ; and popular Continent of igwood, along the far-famed is leave every urday, on the From Toronto Meaford and Bay through 1 picturesque north shore. 45 Steaming down the North Channel, calling alternately at places of interest on the Mani- toulm Island and the mainland, the most enchanting scenery is met with at every turiv and winding, caused by the numerous islands and rocks; opens up new vistas, and brings into view fresh scenes of beauty. Many of the islands are clothed with rich verdure down to the water's edg«»; lofty pines tower from the cliffs, or the light, delicate-looking birches display their fresh, giaceful foliage, interspersed with tamaracks and balsams. Others are sterile and barre.^ patches of rock, save where, perhaps, some few stunted trees cling, with gnarled and contorted roots, to the fissures and clefts in the stony mass. Thus, hour after hour, islands succeed islands in an unbroken continuity as we glide on j islands of every conceivable size and shape — islands barren, wooded, sandy, rocky, columnar, gracefully rounded, pre- cipitous and gently sloping, wind-swept and storm-polished, large, diminutive, and infin- itesimal, illustrating the truth of the old refrain that HiKKer flea* have little fleas Upon their backs t- ' ,„ ; And little fleas hav deag And so ad iiil' i , For one hundred .,> ,enty miles we steam through thi> panorama of inland scenery. Gore Buy. on Manitoulin Island, is a lovely spot, > ith excellent hotel accom- modations, whiir Spanish River, on the North Shore, merits the attention of the tourist. Hilton, on St. Joseph Island, has a very fitu: Government dock, which was finished last summer. Connection is made both here and at Sault Ste. Marie with the Beatty line of steamers, which run to all points on Lake Superior, Duluth and Port Arthu:. Garden River, at the head of Lake George, is an Indian reserve, and here one must visit an old Jesuit church, one of the early land- marks of the settlement of the French in Canada. Sault Ste. Marie, or in the language of the country, "The Soo," is a place which is rapidly growing in importance, and a most enthusiastic " boom " is now progressing ; buildings and hotels are rapidly springing up, and capital is being freely invested here. The Falls of St. Mary have rendered canals necessary, by which communication is kept up l)etween Lakes Huron and Su- perior. " The Soo " was an important place in old days, /heti grand councils of Indian nations were convened here, and voyageurs held their revels on their return from the Far West. At this point connection is made with the Duluth, South Shore & Atlantic Railway ; and with all the American lines of steamers for Lake Michigan and the upper lakes, which lead away to the west to that land to which • • ♦ departed Hiawatha, Hiawatha the Heloved, In the iflory of the sunset. In the purple mists of cvcninfc, To the regions of the homewind. Of the North-west wind Keewaydin. To the Islands of the BIrssed, To the Kingdom of Ponemah, To the land of the >Iereafter. MACKINAC ISLAND. Mackinac Island is the next point made for when leaving Sault Ste. Marie, and all who have evci visited this favored spot of nature are ceaseless in its praise. It is among the grandest and most romantic of islands, and every section of the country sends visitors annually. It is noted as a sanitarium lor those suffering from hay- fever and bronchial affections. Great num- bers visit this region to escape from or get relief of these maladies, while the surround- ing country offers endless attractions to the tourist and sportsman. It is the central point of the three great lakes; it knows no land breeze, hence the winds are always cool and refreshing . They no sooner cease blow- ing from Lake Michigan than they come from Lake Huron, and Lake Superior is never behind. The island comprises 2,221 acres, of which the National Park contains 821, and the military reservation 103 acres. The scenery is unsurpassed, for Nature seems to have exhausted herself in the mani- fold objects of interest which meet the eye in every direction, while an additional romance is added to this spot as having 4& SUMMER RESORTS. I if been the birth-place of Hiawatha, whom Longfellow has immortalized in verse. Mackinac may well be termed the Par- nassus of America, and the Goddess Hygeia might well place her temple here, for it is one of the purest, clearest and most health- giving of atmospheres. This atmosphere is never sultry or malarious ; living streams of pure water, cooled down to the temperature of 44 degrees, gush from the lime rock pre- cipices. Its cool air and pure water are just what are needed to bring back the glow of health to the faded cheek, and send the warm currents of life dancing through the system with youthful vigor. The very best of hotel accommodation can be had here, the " Grand " being a most palatial house. From Mackinac the return journey is commenced, the whole round trip occupy- I ing just seven days. This service is done | by three superblyequipped steamers, the "Pacific," the "Atlantic," and the "Baltic," which rank as A i, and have accommodation for 150 to 250 passengers. ftamilton mt> IDfdnits. Hamilton, the "Ambitious City," forty miles from Toronto, is reached by the Southern Division of the Grand Trunk Railwa •. The city is built upon one of the steps, or terraces, which surround the lake, and which would appear at one time to have formed the immediate shore. Looking down from the elevation of the " Mountain," its streets slope away towards the lake and diminish in the distant perspective. The form of the harbor, closed in from the open water by the Burlington Beach, is clearly limned, and away to the left stretches the pretty valley, in the midst of which can be seen the spires and chimneys of the little town of Oundas. Hamilton is the very centre of a remark- able grain-producing country ; and the rapid increase of its population is remarkable. In 1841 the population was but 3,500, twenty years later it was under 20,000 ; while at the present time it exceeds 40.000. To-day the city produces one thirty-fourth in value of all the manufactures in the Dominion of Canada, and consumes one-fourteenth of all the cbal used in the Province of Citario. Dundurn Park, on the heights towards ^he edge of the bay. is a favorite resort, and there are many pleasant drives in the neighborhood. XTbc Cttp of St. Catbacinca. Thirty-three miWs to the south of Toronto, and twelve miles from Niagara Falls, is the thriving City of St. Catharines, pleasantly located on the Welland Canal. The sur- rounding country is very picturesque. The well-known mineral well of St. Catharines, whose water is of great value as a remedial' agent, supplies on an average 130,000 gallons a day. Of these waters, a large quantity, partially evaporated, is sent out through the country. A second well, similar to the first. IS also in use. St. Catharines has well been called the Saratoga of British North America; and its hotels are equal to any in the Province. Mestern ©ntarfo. Progressing further west the City of Lon- don is reached on this line, so-called after Its great namesake, and those who sigh for the original will find a lovely river called the Thames, a Hyde Park, a St. Paul's Church, and if low spirits supervene on seeing that these are not quite so dingy as at home, they may cure their spleen by a conscien- tious course of white sulphur baths, which the metropolis of Great Britain has not. These baths attract many invalids from a distance, and are very highly spoken of. London is a progressive, go-ahead city of some 30,000 to 40,000 inhabitants. Other points of interest, all termini of various sections of the Grand Trunk system, are Goderich, Kincardine, and Southamp- ton, all pleasantly situated on Lake Huron, and from which charming trips may be made _, „ , Within the wilderness Of Huron, clasping those transparent bays, Those deeps of unimagined crystal where The bark canoe seems hung in middle air. From Sarnia, which is separated from Port Huron by the Rive St. Clair, the / > ■ WESTERN ONTARIO._THE CITY OF DETROIT. 47 Northern Transportation Company's line of boats run to Sault Ste. Marie and the upper lakes, calling at Port Arthur and Duluth Port Dover, a terminal point of a branch of the Grand Trunk, on Lake Erie, annually attracts large numbers on account of its excellent boating facilities and pleasant sur- roundings. Some of the best duck shooting to be had in the world may be enjoyed in this locality. There is one promontory, twenty miles in length, which juts out into Lake Erie and is called Long Point This ground has been taken by a club, who have a charter from the Ontario Government, enablmg them to prest.rve the game. The headquarters of the club are situated several mrles from the further end of the curious r.dge of land and marsh which forms the territory which is the property of the mem- bers. It IS reached b> steamer from Port Dover, and the voyager sees as he starts nothing but the blue horizon of the lake before him. By-and-by dots are seen on he surface of the water, and on nearing hem they are seen to be trees standing on the highest ground of Long Point. Far as the eye can see on either hand are great beds of high reeds, among these stands a little village, consisting of the sportmen's huts, placed like the houses of the old lake dwellers, on platforms supported on piles driven into the shallow water. The plat forms are connected by wooden causeways Further west is St. Thomas, dignified as a 'City." and the growth of which in the last few years has been of a highly phenom- enal character, indicative of thafspiritlof western enterprise so observable on the whole of this continent. ^bc Cits of Detroit Detroit, the chief city of Michigan, the oldest city by far in the west of the United States, and older than either Baltimore or Philadelphia, on thesea-board, was founded by the French of Canada, in 1670. as an out- post for the prosecution of the fur trade, on the bank of the river of its own name. Its river-side location, its miles of well-shaded avenues, its perfectly paved streets, its level but raised si^e. and its many modern im- provements, are not surpassed by any city on the American Continent, and it is aptly named the •• City of the Straits." As late as 1830 the place vntained only 2,222 inhab- itants ; but in 1840 the population had risen to 9,ro2; ,n 1850 it was 21,019; in 1870 79.577. while at the present time it numbers upwards of 150.000. The view of Detroit from the tower of the City Hall IS of such beauty that it will well repay the trouble of climbing to that coign of vantage. Stretching away in the distance as far as the eye can reach, the various avenues which converge to the hall present the appearance of a vista of trees, inter- spersed w.th elegant and costly edifices The surrounding parks, the river scenery" the opposite shore of Canada, the many sails and thither of a steam flotilla, all these and many other sights combine to form a vivid picture of American enterprise and progress. Fort Wayne, a picturesque military post in the neighborhood, is worthy of a visit, but the greatest charm of all lies in the beauties o Michigan Straits, "the like of which in all he States cannot be found." Belle Isle Park IS perfect in its way. and further up tl 7f"\ u ^'"' ^'- '''^''' " °"«°f 'he most beau iful bodies of water in the great chain of inland seas." Romantic bits of wood- land pretty villages and handsome villas dot Its shores. St. Clair Flats is a noted duck-shooting locality, at the mouth of the St. Clair River sheet of shallow water entirely overgrown with nee grass, through which the cool cur- rent of the water is constantly rushing u IS a splendid rendezvous for fish, which re- main firm and hard throughout the warm weather Perch and black bass abound, and pike, pickerel and maskalonge are numerous. The rice grass is a^so a natural feeding ground for ducks, as well as reed birds and snipe, and after September ist the shooting is superb. Star Island is a favorite resort for fisher men. The village of St. Clair, with its mineral springs. Port Huron, standing «jn- m J i 48 SUMMER RESORTS. tinel at the mouth of Lake Huron, with Sarnia opposite, on the Canadian shore, are all places of interest. Within two or three hours' sail of Detroit are Orion Orchard and Walled Lake, both charming little inland resorts. The churches of Detroit are numerous, handsome and representative, beautiful edifices having been erected in every style of architecture and devoted to each form of worship. Cbicaao. Chicago, the western terminus of the Grand Trrnk system, is the most remark- able city in the world for its rapid growth. The name is of Indian origin, signifying " wild onion," and the place was first settled in 1832, prior to which it was a mere frontier post; in 1832 it contained about a dozen fiamilies, besides the officers and soldiers in Fort Dearborn. The town was organized by the election of a board of trustees, Aug. 10, 1833. The estimated population in 1835 was 1,000 ; in 1845 it was 12,080 ; in 1855 it was 83,509 ; in 1865 «t was 187,446 ; in 18/5 it was 410,000, while at the present time it is computed to be upwards of 600,000. The city is built on a plain on the western shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of the Chicago River, which latter with its two branches divided the city into three parts, called the north, south and west divisions. The city is regularly laid out. the principal avenues running parallel with the lake shore ; the streets are wide and r«^nlarly built, and are generally well paved. Few cities boast of finer private residences, and since the fire of October, 1871, which destroyed property to the value of over |2oo,ooo.ooo, splendid buildings have been erected for business purposes. Chicago is supplied with an abundance of pure water from Lake Michi- gan by a process which is one of the wonders of modern engineering skill. Two cylindrical brick tunnels, the one 6 feet and the other 7 feet in diameter, starting from the shore at different points extend a distance of two miles under the lake, and meet in an im- mense crib, inclosing a grated cylinder, through which the water descends into them in a stream as unfailing as the lake itself. These tunnels cost over #1,500.000, while the water-works altogether have cost more thap #5,000,000. Chicago is one of the largest grain mar- kets in the world, and is the centre of speculation in that commodity, as well as in hogs and live stock. Thus on paper we have traversed the chief points of interest reached by the Grand Trunk system, but the reality and enjoy- ment of these varied scenes paralyze the pen of description, and in order to be fully real- ized must be personally visited, while the refrain of each and all will be, I've really had a pleasant visit here, And mean to come tigun another year. i m gularly built, and Few cities boast and since the fire stroyed property 000,000, splendid :ed for business pplied with an om Lake Michi- e of the wonders Two cylindrical and the other 7 >m the shore at listance of two meet in an im- :rated cylinder, cends into them the lake itself. ,500,000, while have cost more jest grain mar- the centre of y, as well as in traversed the d by the Grand ty and enjoy- iralyze the pen 3 be fully real- ted, while the [sit here, lother year. 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